# One thing leads to another



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Having not cleaned my shed for quite a while I realised that it was in a disgusting state so today was the day. Everything was going well bar the odd interruption when I picked-up an Acrylic rod that I bought at the same time as my lathe, and whilst deciding where to store it a sudden urge came over me to have a go at making it into a pen. Now it would have been a good idea to read something about turning Acrylics, but you know me, get stuck into it without delay! I cut it in two, drilled them, glued in the tubes and trimmed the ends on the disc sander, all without a problem. I then started to turn, wow, how different it behaves compared to wood, it was hard going and the hardness varied as did the sound each time I passed the gouge over the same spots. Eventually it was ready for smoothing at which point I had a mental block, just couldn't remember anything that I may have been told. I decided to try 240 grade paper with Ultra Shine which says on the label that it contains a mild abrasive. I followed this with 400 grade and finally the back of the paper and as the Ultra Shine dried I added a few drops of white spirit, which was the closest non water liquid that I found. I reckon that I could have made at least three wood pens in the same time. I would appreciate advice from you pen experts as to how it should be done. Finally, I have a feeling that my chisels will now require sharpening.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

It looks great Harry. I haven't ever turned acrylic but I know that it requires sharp tools and will dull tools easily. Looks great!

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thanks Corey, yes it's going to be my first and last for a while, I have only watched about a third of the DVD's on sharpening and even if I grasp the basics, I still will have to make some jigs, Glenmore very kindly sent me some plans. I wonder if as an interim measure I could get away with just touching them up with a diamond dresser. All advice gladly received.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Yes, I use jigs in order to sharpen my tools as that is how I learned. Are the plans Glenmore sent you for a wood version of the Oneway sharpening jig? I am not sure what you mean diamond dresser but I would leave them along until you get the jig made etc. 
Click on the link below and in the upper right hand corner under Multi Media are some how to video's as well. This is how I learned to sharpen. 
http://www.oneway.ca/sharpening/index.htm

And here is another website that has some neat stuff on it when you have time http://www.theturnersshop.com/index.html

Corey


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Harry, according to my friends at Woodcraft you should sand acrylic to 1200 and then use a plastic polish on it. They suggest using "MicroMesh" sanding screen which run's about $45 for a kit. Instead I bought a couple sheets of automotive wet/dry paper in steps to 1200 and a bottle of Meguires plastic polish. I am going to try one of these soon.


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Harry Very nice. I found that when doing acrylics. I start in the middle and work the guouge towards the ends. Make sure your tools are really super sharp I found that out the hard way. Shattered many acrylic blank. I used the micro mesh up to 12000 grit. And used a plastic polish can't rember the name of it. You are lucky that it's that warm there I tried one last winter and it just shattered first touch of the tool. chippypah aka Pete told me to put them into warm water for a while and it works for those of you that live in the tundra areas.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thanks for all that info. Corey. A diamond dresser, which is available in fine, medium and coarse is a plastic handle with a thin steel plate glued to it and bonded to the plate is diamond dust. A drop of oil or water is applied and the cutting edge gently stroked at the correct angle. They work like magic on ordinary chisels.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mike, I'm about to post a thread showing how I spent this Sunday afternoon, which is about tuition I received from a friend and includes the making of a Corian pen, and the way he showed me to polish it was to use "Brasso", a liquid metal polish on a piece of 400 grit paper then finish off with the polish on a soft cloth. The result was a good polish and very smooth. I'm led to believe that metal polish is as cheap as chips compared to specialised products.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I know all about Brasso from my time in Army Aviation. You could also use toothpaste since it is a mild abrasive, and your pens would turn out "minty fresh". Perhaps that is not your goal, and it is possible the reason for the extremely fine sanding and plastic polish is for depth in the finish. I am only relaying information and will experiment and see what works well for me.


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Very nice Harry.....you do just fine work.....

KarateEd......


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

Harry that is a fine looking pen. You did a first class job on it. Keep'em coming.

I do a lot of acyrlic and use a skew most of the time. Sometimes I use a roughing gouge to gently take off the corners. I sand mine to 400 and then micro mesh them to 12000. Instead of brasso or plastic polish I buff mine with tripoli, white diamond and then clear shoe polish wax or Renaissance wax. Bonnie Klien and Cindy Drozda use the shoe polish. It is clear and is several wax combined. It works pretty good. 

On the honing I have a 2" X 6" medium 600 grit diamond hone. When I sharpen my skew I use the hone and don't have to go back to the grinder all the time. Alan Lacer recommends that one.


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