# How to mount the router plate...



## tdale (Feb 18, 2012)

I finally got my router table plate from Rockler, a Bench Dog plate. 

There are several screws included, and I also got the router table leveling and locking hardware pack, which included 8 screws and 2 "screw in nuts"...

The large screws are for screwing the router to the plate. But which screws do I use to fasten the plate to the table top? And how does the leveling screws work? There were no instructions included, so I'm a bit lost. I'm making my own router table, using a kitchen bench top.


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## vzbingo (Mar 1, 2012)

The 2 black screws secure the plate to the table using the 2 opposing corner holes in the plate and screwed into the 2 anchors which you'll mount in the table.
The 4 medium size screws mount the router to the 4 holes in the plate.
The 3 small screws hold the center ring in place.
The leveling screws will go into the table, under the plate. Your guess is as good as mine as to if they screw down or up.

Best of luck!


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## downhill (Nov 21, 2008)

Mine came with instructions. You should call them and see if they can either send them to you or.. send you somewhere to download them.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

See the More Info tab
Bench Dog Router Table Plates - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Here's a link you may want to check out, the guides below you can rework your new plate so you can use the guides in your router table.
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=41778&cat=1,43000,51208,41778

http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/10818-bogydave.html

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tdale said:


> I finally got my router table plate from Rockler, a Bench Dog plate.
> 
> There are several screws included, and I also got the router table leveling and locking hardware pack, which included 8 screws and 2 "screw in nuts"...
> 
> The large screws are for screwing the router to the plate. But which screws do I use to fasten the plate to the table top? And how does the leveling screws work? There were no instructions included, so I'm a bit lost. I'm making my own router table, using a kitchen bench top.


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## tdale (Feb 18, 2012)

Thanks. The funny thing is that the black screws were together with the other screws on the left, while the anchors came with the leveling screws. There are actually four small screws (the three screws for fastening the insert is not in the picture). The black screws have a small head, barely enough to not slip through the holes in the plate....


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## tdale (Feb 18, 2012)

Your link explained the anchor part, thanks. 

Still think the heads are a bit small though... If I tighten too hard, i think they might destoy the hole in the plate.....


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

tdale said:


> Your link explained the anchor part, thanks.
> 
> Still think the heads are a bit small though... If I tighten too hard, i think they might destoy the hole in the plate.....


I have Woodpeckers plates, both Aluminum and Phenolic. The leveling screws went in very hard like they were cross threaded or the wrong size. There is a reason for that of course, to keep them from vibrating loose and screwing up the leveling once set.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> I have Woodpeckers plates, both Aluminum and Phenolic. The leveling screws went in very hard like they were cross threaded or the wrong size. There is a reason for that of course, to keep them from vibrating loose and screwing up the leveling once set.


Hi Ken - I've got the INCRA plate and ran into the same thing, I think INCRA and Woodpeck use the same drawings. They felt like they were cross threading because they were. A call to INCRA revealed that the setscrews were 1/4-28 but the holes were tapped 1/4-*27*


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## tdale (Feb 18, 2012)

I'm making my own router table, so this won't be a problem I guess...


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Hi Ken - I've got the INCRA plate and ran into the same thing, I think INCRA and Woodpeck use the same drawings. They felt like they were cross threading because they were. A call to INCRA revealed that the setscrews were 1/4-28 but the holes were tapped 1/4-*27*


Hi John,

The instruction sheet that came with my Woodpeckers plates indicated they would be hard to install or something to that effect, but didn't say why. I just surmised they were different threads because if cross threading they would have gone in at a slant which they didn't. At the same time it also made sense they were difficult to install so they wouldn't loosen and let the plate move once leveled. I don't know about other plates but my Woodpeckers plate has a spring loaded button that presses against the side of the cut out to keep it in place.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> Hi John,
> 
> The instruction sheet that came with my Woodpeckers plates indicated they would be hard to install or something to that effect, but didn't say why. I just surmised they were different threads because if cross threading they would have gone in at a slant which they didn't. At the same time it also made sense they were difficult to install so they wouldn't loosen and let the plate move once leveled. I don't know about other plates but my Woodpeckers plate has a spring loaded button that presses against the side of the cut out to keep it in place.


Hi Ken - the Incra uses a cam in the corner to take any slop out of the plate fit, which, in my case was about zero. 
The thread pitch difference is only one thread per inch which is kind of a clever way to lock the screws against vibration, however, just installing the screws is also retapping the hole so you really need to get it right the first time. I used blue (medium strength) thread locker anyway.


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## Slomoe (Feb 14, 2011)

They are most likely interference threads - like the old rocker arm adjustment on a 57 ford. Best to just cut the right depth to start with, if needed shim with HD Alum foil or marine tex it and recut.


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## tdale (Feb 18, 2012)

What I would like, is some sort of plan on where to put the screws etc. I have a blank table top and a router plate and a bunch of screws... The black screws and anchors go in the two oposite corners, I know, but the adjustment screws... are they mounted in pairs at each corner, from underneath the top towards the plate?


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Hi Ken - the Incra uses a cam in the corner to take any slop out of the plate fit, which, in my case was about zero.
> The thread pitch difference is only one thread per inch which is kind of a clever way to lock the screws against vibration, however, just installing the screws is also retapping the hole so you really need to get it right the first time. I used blue (medium strength) thread locker anyway.


Hi John...Using thread locker or Locktite if you will is a good idea. I have all four colors I used when building my Harley Davidson Trike. The green is used for threads when already seated so I may just give the screws a shot the next time I use my table. The spring loaded buttons I referred to in my Woodpeckers plates are also adjustable for exerting more side pressure to eliminate, as you said "slop". My complete router table set-up is Woodpeckers so everything fits as it should with a bit of fine tuning. That is except the cabinet which I built myself.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

tdale said:


> What I would like, is some sort of plan on where to put the screws etc. I have a blank table top and a router plate and a bunch of screws... The black screws and anchors go in the two oposite corners, I know, but the adjustment screws... are they mounted in pairs at each corner, from underneath the top towards the plate?


Hi Tommy,

As far as placement is concerned I can only tell you how my Woodpeckers plate is laid out. Or better yet here is a pic of the lay-out. 

The screws are inserted from the top pressing against the cut-out lip to level the plate with the table top. As John and I have been discussing you need a way to install the screws so they will stay in place and not vibrate loose. I like John's idea of using Locktite, but make sure you use the correct color, which in your case should be "BLUE".


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## tdale (Feb 18, 2012)

Thanks. What about the leveling screws? Where are they placed?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> Hi John...Using thread locker or Locktite if you will is a good idea. I have all four colors I used when building my Harley Davidson Trike. The green is used for threads when already seated so I may just give the screws a shot the next time I use my table. The spring loaded buttons I referred to in my Woodpeckers plates are also adjustable for exerting more side pressure to eliminate, as you said "slop". My complete router table set-up is Woodpeckers so everything fits as it should with a bit of fine tuning. That is except the cabinet which I built myself.


Yikes - Ken, the green post assembly locktite is normally, in my experience, a high strength thread locker that requires heat or impact to break free should you ever need to remove or adjust the fastener. I believe there is also a medium strength post assemly thread locker available but I don't know the color code for it. :blink:


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

tdale said:


> What I would like, is some sort of plan on where to put the screws etc. I have a blank table top and a router plate and a bunch of screws... The black screws and anchors go in the two oposite corners, I know, but the adjustment screws... are they mounted in pairs at each corner, from underneath the top towards the plate?


Hi Tommy - Mounting the leveling screws in pairs in each corner is the norm. Some plates may have additional leveling screws installed between the corners. All the commercial plates I've seen are predrilled for the leveling screws, where did you get yours?

I would use internal hex head type of set screws, installed from the top for leveling. They need to be slightly shorter than the plate is thick to ensure a leveling capability without protruding above the plate. Trying to adjust plate level from below the table is a genuine PIA as it really should be done with the router installed.


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