# MDF router table top



## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

I want to glue two 24 x 36 pieced of MDF together. Both would be 3/4 inches. What is the best way to glue and get it right? Does contact adhesive work. 

I want it flat and I want it to stay together. 

Thanks for input.

sb


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Contact cement will work fine.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi SB

Just my 2 cents 

Just about any of the new glues will do the trick,white,yellow,etc.
They will give you a bit of time to line the parts up b/4 it sets..

If it's MDF put in on both boards then get if flat with some scrap stock,just drag the glue around and take out the high points....don't get cheap with the glue...  this is a one time glue up thing and a one shot thing..

If you get some out on the edges just wipe it off with a wet rag....

Then set it off to one side for 1/2 day, so the glue can do it's work ... if you want you can stack some boards on top of the top but you don't need to clamp it the norm because the MDF is flat....


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S Bolton said:


> I want to glue two 24 x 36 pieced of MDF together. Both would be 3/4 inches. What is the best way to glue and get it right? Does contact adhesive work.
> 
> I want it flat and I want it to stay together.
> 
> ...


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Bob: Do you think contact adhesive is OK?

sb


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi SB

I don't care for it  once the boards are in place that's it, you only have less than a min.to move it if that ...it holds well but you need to be quick and because the boards are big it's hard to do in one quick move..

You could build a frame around the out side and let the frame help get it right in one quick drop..

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S Bolton said:


> Bob: Do you think contact adhesive is OK?
> 
> sb


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Actually there is virtually no movement once the two pieces with contact cement come together. I usually get a friend to assist when joining anything with contact cement so alignment is simple. BJ is absolutely right when he says it's easier to use white or yellow glue by yourself. Either way will give you a very good bond.


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

What about yellow glue and then screws instead of clamps?

sb


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

What is the best way to check for level (across the top of the mdf)? 89.00 steel bar from Lee Valley? Something cheaper from Menards, Home Depot?

sb


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## dharmabum (Sep 16, 2007)

S Bolton said:


> What about yellow glue and then screws instead of clamps?
> 
> sb


I'm just finishing up a modified version of Norm's new router table, and that's what I used. One (1) layer of 1/2" and one (1) layer of 3/4" MDF glued with titebond III, and screwed together. Just be careful you don't get any screws where you will be cutting for a insert plate.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi SB

Just the glue. it will do the trick....screws will LIFT the board up,that's the funny part about of MDF, do this for a quick test screw some MDF boards together and then take it a apart and take are hard look at it...rub your hand over the hole and you will see what I'm talking about... or take a sanding block and sand it down just bit and you will see the bump...it's just the way MDF is...

do this for a quick test glue some boards up with some yellow glue wait about 2 hours then try and pull it apart, it will pull apart just like cardboard...or not at all...with a hole(plug) or two...

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S Bolton said:


> What about yellow glue and then screws instead of clamps?
> 
> sb


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi SB

Pickup a Ruler one of the 6ft or 4ft ones, or 8ft one they come in handy for plywood and the price is right for them...and they should be true...


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S Bolton said:


> What is the best way to check for level (across the top of the mdf)? 89.00 steel bar from Lee Valley? Something cheaper from Menards, Home Depot?
> 
> sb


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Mike said:


> Actually there is virtually no movement once the two pieces with contact cement come together.. . . BJ is absolutely right when he says it's easier to use white or yellow glue by yourself. . .


There is definitely a skill involved in using contact cement.
One I certainly have not mastered.
I still use it for laminating Formica onto countertops ---
But for most anything else --- I have fallen in love with TitebondIII.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

I also like Titebond glues the only thing I don't like about the number #3 is the price...
It's bit over kill if the project is going to be inside all the time..  if the MDF gets wet that's ,it's firewood... LOL  like many of the man made woods/boards/plywoods..

http://www.titebond.com/WNTitebondIIITB.asp

http://www.rockler.com/search_results.cfm?filter=Titebond&submit.x=0&submit.y=0



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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> I also like Titebond glues the only thing I don't like about the number #3 is the price...
> It's bit over kill if the project is going to be inside all the time..


Agreed on both points - but there are things it is ideal for -- and I don't like having to pick and choose -- so I just buy a big a bottle of III as I can find to help offset the cost.
If I am out of glue and need something for inside only -- I usually grab good old Elmers Carpenters wood glue.



bobj3 said:



> if the MDF gets wet that's ,it's firewood... LOL


If it actually gets WET I'm not so sure it's even good for that -
Maybe kindling -- I thought your earier comparison to cardboard was superb.

ALTHOUGH - to give it credit ---
I threw myself a desk together once -- with an MDF to --- and didn't get around to painting it for about 2 years.
It had set there raw all that time with coffee cups and hand oil etc -- and was still in decent enough shape I was able to prime and paint and keep using it.


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## Fourleftpaws (Feb 12, 2007)

The trick in using Contact cement for me is using either thick waxed wrapping paper or cardboard in between the two boards. Let the contact cement get almost dry then pulling the paper or cardboard out. I also used two 24" x 38" pieces of MDF. But I screwed them together. Thinking that if the top piece went bad from dents and stuff - I could just unscrew it and replace it. I pre-drilled the holes - screwed it together - then unscrew them and used a scraper to remove anything that had lifted up. Then screwed it back together. Seemed to work good for me. I was afraid to use a water based glue not knowing if it would swell the MFD.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

dharmabum said:


> I'm just finishing up a modified version of Norm's new router table, and that's what I used. One (1) layer of 1/2" and one (1) layer of 3/4" MDF glued with titebond III, and screwed together. Just be careful you don't get any screws where you will be cutting for a insert plate.



Once the glue cures, pull out the screws. They aren't going to be doing anything anymore


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Thanks for all the input. Bob mentioned rulers/straight edges. I live in a rural area. Where is the best place to get one?

sb


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## Router is still my name (May 3, 2006)

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/tools-woodworking/2939-dont-do-dcp_4636.jpg


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi SB

UPS can put it right at your front door 
Save gas and time looking for one, ROckler/Lee Valley/many on the net would love to put one in your hands and can do it in a day if you want it that quick.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_h...ias=tools&field-keywords=alum.+rulers&x=0&y=0

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S Bolton said:


> Thanks for all the input. Bob mentioned rulers/straight edges. I live in a rural area. Where is the best place to get one?
> 
> sb


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

I don't need one that quick but thanks for the advise. 

I have used contact adhesives before for plastic laminate. I used dowels to hold the two surfaces apart until the minute of truth.

I think with the MDF, that I would simple make it oversize and then cut it to the dimensions I seek (using contact adhesives)

thanks

sb


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

S Bolton said:


> I don't need one that quick but thanks for the advise.
> 
> I have used contact adhesives before for plastic laminate. I used dowels to hold the two surfaces apart until the minute of truth.
> 
> ...


I too use contact adhesive Steve and for the last few years only the gel, it's so easy to apply and no mess, I also have a number of sealed dowels for separating the laminate which I cut to rough size on the saw table or radial arm saw , depending on the size and finally trim with the router.


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## Birdflu (Nov 6, 2007)

Just adding another two cents:

I'd also suggest that MDF Boards TOP and BOTTOM be laminated. Even at 3/4", MDF can be prone to warping and absorbing moisture (humidity). 

Yellow glue to bond the boards together and Contact cement on both surfaces of the MDF and the laminate will do the trick nicely.

Good Luck and some pictures??


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Pictures may be aways out there. I received and watched Series 1 of the "The Router Workshop" on DVD and can't wait until I get a dedicated router table made (very small) for the Oak Park spacers.

Router table is being put on hold until Po' Boy router table is done.

Thanks

sb


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