# Circular Saw Track Systems



## japa62 (May 9, 2012)

Hi,

My main goal this year at the Brissy Wood show was to find a track system. Only to be told by a couple of the stalls that only Festoon was available. Luv to but out of my price range and didn't be-leave them.

Since then have checked out EZ Track and TrueTrac Track systems.

Thought I would ask the experienced.

What is your recommendation for a Circ Saw Track system that is (preferably) available in Australia, reasonable price $150-250ish, expandable later and even DIY ideas would be cool. 

I have never been able to cut straight even with guides on both side of the saw and the videos on EZ and TrueTrac look good. 

Thanx's in advance


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

I have the Dewalt It is used in the field to cut slatwall. It has been used for three years and has held up well. I use a small shop vac with it and it is very effective with dust control


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi James,

I have the E-Z system and have found it very useful over the years, so useful that I even considered selling my table saw, but decided against it for some reason. You can see the following thread to get an idea of how I use my system with a DIY cutting table. Good luck with your decision.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/2986-multi-purpose-router-bench.html


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## Jaybird2005 (Jul 21, 2011)

If you have been unable to ge a straight cut with a fence at all, the trouble might be dull blade, a problem with the saw itself or your cutting process (too high, not well enough supported, etc). I would try buying a sheet or 2 of rigid foam insulation, put the rigid foam on the driveway, adjust your depth of cut so it just cuts into the rigid foam, put some scrap ply on top of the rigid foam, add a fence and see if you can get a clean straight cut. Try cutting off just a half inch or so from one side of the scrap. Put a pencil line on the back side and see how well you can cut it. If you still cannot get a straight cut, look to something other than a fence system.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

To break down full plywood sheets, I use a 50" Pro Grip Edge Clamp and a saw plate installed on my super cheap Task Force circular saw. Works great, and was a fraction of the cost of any Dewalt or Festool system.

You can check them out at Peachtree or read my short review.

I believe this could be bought through Amazon and shipped to Oz if you were really interested. I would have to imagine in your situation that you'd be best served with a homemade edge guide for a much cheaper cost.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

My jig ("system" is a bit pretentious for how simple it is) is an 8' piece of 3/4" Baltic Birch ripped to 3 times the width of my circular saw shoe. Then, a routed groove for an 8' section of T track. The groove is positioned so that there is room on the left side for the saw to pass my clamps. I used JB Weld to attach the T track. A small length of the T track insert was attached to the shoe. My saw is a Skil 77 worm drive. There are holes in the shoe from the factory. I used bolts and wing nuts. A 30 second job to attach or disassemble. 
The first use of the jig establishes the cut line. So, there is no need to measure any off sets.
With a nice Tenryu blade installed, I get project ready work pieces every time. 
Total cost less than $100 USD.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I had trouble getting my cheap circular saw to cut along a straight edge too. I finally thought to check the sole plate (platen) to see if it was parallel to the blade and it was out by about 1/16"/1.5mm. I knocked the roll pin out of one attachment and after filing and shimming it now works very well. You would think that something that is mass produced would be made with an accurate machining process but that is often not the case.


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## klpauba (May 17, 2007)

I too have the Eurekazone EZ system and love it. I don't have a table saw and it's done most everything I've needed.


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

Due to the size of these items, cost of shipping from the USA will be high.
The Festool system is very nice, I often drool over the display when I'm in the local dealer 

Carbatec sell the Pro Grip system.


I get by with a home made jig that works pretty well. 

Regards
Geoff


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## david cooksey (Jun 3, 2011)

Take a piece of 12" wide plywood and mount a piece of casing that is straight that was made from a piece of 3/4" stock


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

david, can you post a couple pics of it?


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## japa62 (May 9, 2012)

Thanx's guys, excellent reply's. Funny about Cabtec as I did ask them? but will have a look at it. Mind you I have started to make my own. No drawings, all in my head but based on what I have read here and here.
Some photo's of the work so far. Will work on it more during the week.


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

Photos are a bit small to see


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## japa62 (May 9, 2012)

Yikes, fixed.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi James.

I hope I can explain this to you in an easy way to understand.

I have found that if I use a panel clamp and a circular saw, and you have the narrow width of the base plate against the clamp, the saw tends to move away from the clamp. 

If you have the wider part of the base against the clamp and push away from you, the saw tends to stick against the clamp making for a straighter cut.

Also make you cut with the clamp on the piece of ply/mdf that you want to use, then if the saw drifts away from the clamp you are not ruining your work...


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Thanks for your comments James! I actually had my first table saw for several months before I got around to picking up a circular saw. On a few cuts, I have clamped a framing square to the piece being cut with c-clamps and used it as a guide with good results.

It never occurred to me to study the base of the saw to see which side would guide better. Thinking about your comments left me curious enough I went out to the garage and checked my saw out. On my saw (a $30-ish low end Skil from Lowes) the height of the edges varies quite a bit, so much that it appears to be 'thought out' in the design process for one reason or another.

This kind of left me assuming that the bases of circular saws can vary from one brand/model to another. If and when I go looking to pick up another saw, I have a better idea of what to consider when deciding whether I like the saw's base or not.

As far as a particular saw's tendency to stay neutral, veer left or veer right goes, I suspect blade condition and the 'set of the teeth' could affect that a lot. When using it in the future, I will try to remember to make it a point to 'pick up on' which way it wants to walk and keep track of it's moods over future blade changes.








jw2170 said:


> Hi James.
> 
> I hope I can explain this to you in an easy way to understand.
> 
> ...


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## japa62 (May 9, 2012)

Yes, thank you James. Strange thing is I normally use a length of straight wood and clamps to use as a panel clamp and always with the thick bit against the guide wood. Going to try it the other way round and see what happens. 

Although I tried straight boards on both side and it still went off track a little. Now if I can prove it is the saw, then that would give me a good excuse to get a better one


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## japa62 (May 9, 2012)

*Some more photo's*

Had a good day, remembered a lot of stuff from before the stroke. Measure twice, cut once, don't use blunt bits, adjust the height of the circular saw, don't us blunt bits etc. So much to relearn. Learnt some new, pesty kids toys can be useful, need to get some of those strong magnet tools etc.

Started with a 900x600 sheet of MDF and screwed 2 pieces of 900x72x20 pine to it.

















The 2 guides cut.









I haven't pulled out the table for 2 years. Good to have it out again.









One thing I picked up from the recent Brisbane Wood Show was Strong Magnets. Gave me the idea on how to look after those little pesty screws I need to remove to change bits. A part from one of the kids toys 









First slot down









Jack, the ever helpful assistant. Found a new spot to be observant. The spot where the table was stored. I always chase him out before routing, sanding etc.









Both slotted. A bit rough but still happy with them. Barrow inside due to it raining all day.









Dry run, thick board setup for the clamp.









and thin board.









Dry run to show why I've done 2 boards.









There would've been more photo's but ran out of tank nuts. A little bit of finishing and try it out.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Any pictures of your setup Gene Howe.


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## japa62 (May 9, 2012)

roofner said:


> Any pictures of your setup Gene Howe.


There's a couple in Gene's uploads and here


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