# Repairing garage door



## H11F (Mar 9, 2021)

Hello All,

First post - was really hoping to find something in the searches, but very possible I'm just not familiar enough with terminology.

Long story short - top edge of the top panel of my garage door broke. Seems no one is willing to touch it for under $500, so I'm taking a crack at it. The top panel held panes of glass, and the joining method appears to be rail and stile.

I've taken some pictures, and also cut one of the broken stiles (I believe?) to create a profile. The remaining panels on the garage door have just that - a panel instead of glass. I've seen some of the 3-piece rail/stile/panel kits - those would be great, assuming I can match the profile for the rails and stiles. Also... If I'm getting terminology incorrect - I apologize, this is a new type of project for me.

Here is what each end looks like. I cut the one end to get a profile which is here, and then I traced / measured it here.

On the sketch, the dotted lines represent a trim piece and is installed using narrow crown staples. I am guessing that they used a router bit, and then ran the piece along a table saw to rip the trim piece. Makes sense to me, as it would allow them to put in the glass, and then staple the pieces back on.

SOOO... that is a lot of info, I apologize. But, I'm hopeful someone might have some thoughts on how to match it?

Thanks,
H11F.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

No picture. However, a three-piece panel set will not give any strength. They are used on simple doors like cabinets. Not being able to see what the problem is it's difficult to answer. But a garage door takes a lot of stress. If the structure is still intact and all you are doing is trying to hold a small panel or piece of glass in place then all you would need to do would be to cut an outside profile on a board to match the door and hold it in place from the inside. A piece of wood on the back or pocket hole screws from the back would do the job. If you are trying to replace a section of the door that runs the complete length then it would be time to get a new door.


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

Hi HF11,
would be better to be able to see the whole door, including the part where the piece you show fits into. At first glance, it looks like the top rail (which I think is what you are showing) is morticed into the stile (vertical piece). As mgmine says, coped rail and stile is not that strong a joint, there is only the glued surface to provide strength. Mortice and tenon is another matter. It looks like instead of the square shoulders on the tenon, the makers coped it to fit the profile of the stile.
I think you would have to cut the tenon first, then cope it twice - once on either side of the tenon, with a bit which is the negative of the one producing the edge profile. The problem will be to find a bit which does not have a protruding part of the shaft, e,g, where a bearing might fit. All the ones I have seen, have such a shaft and nut. Then you would need a robust mitre fence, since the router table's fence will be some distance away from the bit, and you would be coping "blind", under the tenon - scary thought.
Do you really want to get into these complications (and cost of a custom bit)? Maybe mgmine's advice is best.
If you are really determined, have you considered a conventional square-shouldered tenon to fit the existing mortice, and then cover the gaps with filler pieces? The strength will be in the mortice and tenon, not the coping. You can pin the tenon if you need to.


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## H11F (Mar 9, 2021)

Can someone confirm there is no picture? The words "here" are hyperlinks to my imgur pictures (there are three pics, and three "here"s) - I can see them when I click on them... but now I am wondering if I have put in the wrong link.

I've now also taken a few additional pictures... Here is the rail, and here is a closer shot of the rail where the stile sinks into.

I had originally wondered if it was a mortise and tenon, and I based this on the length of the tenon (I believe I am using these terms correctly). But the way it was constructed, I just wasn't sure. Here is a picture of one of the end stiles, which are a bit wider.

Originally, it held glass (picture here) in the top section of the door.

And here and here are pictures of the garage door (well, the remaining parts!)


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## roxanne562001 (Feb 5, 2012)

First off welcome to the forum. A picture of the whole door would be great I am with Biagio on this one.


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## roxanne562001 (Feb 5, 2012)

The pictures are on your links. I would think you could make a new panel using Mortise and Tenon joinery just make it using flat lumber and Loose tenons then just make separate 1/4 round mouldings to hold in the glass or make flat wood panels in place of the glass. Hope that helps


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum.


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

HF11, I am still not sure what part of the door you plan to rebuild/replace. A photo or sketch of the whole door would really help. There might be a simple solution to your problem.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

The pictures now are showing up but as Biagio said it's tough to figure out what you are trying to replace. How did you get just one piece out without taking the whole door apart? You said you cut a stile out if that is the case you won't be able to put a new one in unless the door is apart. You need room to be able to insert a dowel or tenon or anything like that.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

I would probably make it square and add 1/4 rounds to make the appearance similar. Most would be done on a table saw. You'd only route the 1/4 round if you can't find a similar size to match close enough to the existing ogee.


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## Cestenert (4 mo ago)

Did you manage to solve your problem? I came across something similar last week. No one wants to do any kind of repair work without a preliminary inspection, which costs about $ 200. Unfortunately, I haven't figured out how to attach images to my post. I hope someone will add new suggestions to the discussion. My wife offered us to build a carport from carportaustralia.com.au in the yard & use the garage as a second closet. But I don’t think it’s wise to just leave the issue hanging. I would be grateful for any advice or help.


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## biotec (Nov 17, 2019)

@Cestenert 
welcome to the group.
you should be able to drop a the photo in the reply box.

also, need give a little more info like wood door , water damage, or got hit.


I worked on a 10ft wide door a few years back that was old and the glue joints failed. it was the one with the windows.
we reglued and add a metal supports. also used them to help with the glue process.








from the outside it looked like no change.
we used two since the door opener pulled on the door. it was the cause of the failure. also set up the door springs to lift all the weight up.
added three new hinges.









i need take pictures of these projects. I can not remember to do so.

there is no real money helping friends. I will stick to my real job.

good luck


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum @Cestenert


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi @Cestenert and welcome to the forum.

The OP has not been back since his question in 2021, so we cannot answer that.


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## MelaniTryst (3 mo ago)

H11F said:


> Hello All,
> 
> First post - was really hoping to find something in the searches, but very possible I'm just not familiar enough with terminology.
> 
> ...


I think you need to pick up components to repair the rails and frame profile. If you replace the panel and install a panel of a different material instead of glass, it will be easier to repair. But... Someone says it's basically not repairable, but I insisted. And the warranty was given for several years.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum @MelaniTryst


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, Melani.


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