# double rabbet joint



## rkw (Nov 16, 2014)

hi guys , im trying to perfect a double rabbet joint. i have a craftsman router mounted on a small craftsman router table. i cant seem to get it to fit properly togather. not sure what im not doing. any sugestions?


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

Welcome to the forum. I have no idea what you mean by a double rabbet joint.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

rkw said:


> hi guys , im trying to perfect a double rabbet joint. i have a craftsman router mounted on a small craftsman router table. i cant seem to get it to fit properly togather. not sure what im not doing. any sugestions?


which way isn't it fitting???

I gotta ask...
but why a double???


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Welcome to the forum.Richard


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## rkw (Nov 16, 2014)

maybe i didnt call it the right name, just a small box , rabbit on edges. i dont know why i wanted to make it like that.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Richard, do you mean a dado rabbit joint?

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=...v&sa=X&ei=HGV6VPnqCI3f8AXIr4LADA&ved=0CCsQsAQ


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

rkw said:


> *maybe i didn't call it the right name*, just a small box , rabbit on edges. i don't know why i wanted to make it like that.


it's called a double rebate joint....
make singles...
lot less hassle...

go from this..










or this...










to this instead....










or ramp it up...


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## rkw (Nov 16, 2014)

the 2nd one down , looks stronger.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

rkw said:


> the 2nd one down , looks stronger.


which one were you trying to make???

you have a router table???


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

As Stick is implying you should do this on a router table or on a table saw. The set the bit or blade and fence so that you cut 1/2 the thickness high and also wide. The only advantage I've found in this joint is if you plan on using brad nails instead of clamps when gluing. You can cross nail from both sides which will lock it together until the glue dries.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick,
I have never made that joint totally with a router, except with a drawer lock bit, guess it could be done with a straight bit . I have used a router and a table saw. How do you do it?

Herb


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## rkw (Nov 16, 2014)

thanks gonna go work on it now


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Stick,
> I have never made that joint totally with a router, except with a drawer lock bit, guess it could be done with a straight bit . I have used a router and a table saw. How do you do it?
> 
> Herb


router tables for a few pieces and shapers for production...
I have both in vertical and horizontal cut...
I avoid cutting material held in vertical position when ever possible...

shapers for lock miters... 










for the ones in the pictures 2&3...
TS and dado cutters...
but using dado cutters often require a shoulder plane to get a perfect finale fit which eats up the clock...
that's okay for a few pieces but for a lot of pieces I hog them out on the TS/dado and finish to fit on the router tables or shaper...

now for picture 4..
I have stacked offset shaper cutters to get the double cut in one pass...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I agree Stick, I don't like to make vertical cuts on the router table. that is why I don't cut box joints and dovetails on the router table. I have done it and didn't like it. I use the dovetail jig, and tablesaw for box joints. I did do a bunch of lock miter joints recently for a set of drawers and one cut on them is vertical come to think of it.
I like the drawer lock bit too. 
Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> I agree Stick, I don't like to make vertical cuts on the router table. that is why I don't cut box joints and dovetails on the router table.* I have done it and didn't like it.* *I use the dovetail jig,* and tablesaw for box joints. I did do a bunch of lock miter joints recently for a set of drawers and one cut on them is vertical come to think of it.
> I like the drawer lock bit too.
> Herb


D4R to the rescue... for the box joints too....
fast...
accurate...
safe....
stackable cutting is a plus...

I just did a one piece 840 all one size drawer wall cab for an Apothecary shop.... 
the drawers were dovetailed fronts for show... the backs and bottoms were double rebates... Oak frames and Maple/Poplar drawers...

then they ordered the sectional double sided cabs for a total of 2,200 drawers... (4 drawer sizes)
have the order and plans for sectional drawer/shelf wall cabs but the mixed sizes/location of the drawers keeps changing...
all of the slides are sliding dovetails...

after way too many vertical cuts that were less than acceptable w/ marginal to poor production output.... 
enter the horizontal routers....
several CNC's would have been nice...

Woodhaven 6000 Horizontal Router Table : Horizontal Router Table

Woodhaven 6002 Horizontal Router Table & 3.5" Angle Ease : Horizontal Router Table


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

I've used the double rebate joint for drawers for many years, two setups on the router table but with different bits. Assuming 1/2" Baltic birch plywood, use a 1/4" straight bit to cut the dado - set the distance from the fence to the outside of the bit using a scrap piece of plywood and the depth of cut equal to half the thickness (nominally 1/4"). Use a 1/2" straight bit to cut the rabbet on the ends of the back/front pieces - sneak up on the depth and width using the already cut pieces. Glued and clamped, this makes a very strong joint and is very quick to do once you have the bits adjusted. The advantage is that you can make drawers of different sizes all from the same set-up, assuming that the stock is all the same thickness.

Tom


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Tom, I will have to try that, sounds easy enough. 

Stick, 2200 drawers? Yes you would need to to do some fancy planning to do a production run like that. and different sizes too. 
I do use the router table to do dovetail slides. I like that joint. 
Don't know much about the horizontal routing.
The price on that Woodhaven 6000 is not that bad.


Herb


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