# Craftsman 315.174921 Not Working



## TreyC (Sep 8, 2012)

I have a Sears Craftsman 1 1/2 HP Router. 315.174921 is the model number. The router worked a few months ago then stopped working. It doesn't turn or do anything. Tried it a week ago and it worked again. Tried to use it yesterday and it's no longer working. I took apart the handle to check the switch, there was no loose wires. Also took the top part off and nothing loose there. I can solder but other than that and looking for something loose that's as far as my electrical knowledge goes. I realize that the switch could still of went bad. Any way to know if that's what it is or what else could cause this? Thanks ahead.


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## MorrisonCharles (Feb 13, 2009)

I had a Sears unit that quit working. I used a air hose to blast it out and it now works fine.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Trey, it sounds like the problem could be brushes. This is a simple inexpensive repair/replacement. You can buy an inexpensive multimeter for testing batteries and switches from HF; typical cost is about $4. Once you have one we can talk you through the testing.


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## TreyC (Sep 8, 2012)

I have one, but I lost the leads for it (I think that's what they're called). I got it to use for working on guitars but never learned how to use it. Which is what I need the router for. But I know my granddad has a nice multimeter. So if you could help guide me through how to check what I need to check that would be awesome. Also, what does HF stand for? And I tried spraying it with my compressor just to check and still no luck. Thanks guys.


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## TreyC (Sep 8, 2012)

Forgot to mention it but I do have the owners manual that I got from this site incase you need to make references to it. Thanks again.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Trey, HF is our abrieviation for Harbor Freight. Here is a link for you: 7 Function Multimeter


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

I have a Craftsman circular saw which I have a similar problem with.
I changed the brushes, replaced the switch, cleaned out the housing, and even resurfaced the commutator. It still acts the same.
Sometimes, I pull the switch and nothing happens. Then, with the switch still depressed, I give it a tap and it starts right up. It may not act that way again for a week or so.

I just put up with it.


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## TreyC (Sep 8, 2012)

I found a multimeter my dad had. Tried to find it online to show which one I have but I can't find it. It's a cheap SNAPIT. It has the DC V, DCma, BAT, OHM, and AC V. So it should do, just need to know where to check and what it should read. And also, I looked through the manual at the parts and I'm not sure what the brushes are. I've only used routers a few times so I'm not very familiar with all the parts. Thanks for all the help Though.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

williamm said:


> I have a Craftsman circular saw which I have a similar problem with.
> I changed the brushes, replaced the switch, cleaned out the housing, and even resurfaced the commutator. It still acts the same.
> Sometimes, I pull the switch and nothing happens. Then, with the switch still depressed, I give it a tap and it starts right up. It may not act that way again for a week or so.
> 
> I just put up with it.


Any power tool that can just start by itself is DANGEROUS! DON'T just put up with it, for safety sake!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

It may not apply in this case, Trey, but don't forget the possibility of a really poor or broken connection in the plug, cord, or possibly the wall receptacle/extension cord. try it on a different wall receptacle that you know works perfectly...but with no bit in the collett! 
(I'm with Mike; change the brushes in any case.)


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## TreyC (Sep 8, 2012)

I did try a different outlet. I also cut and resoldered another plug on the end with no luck. Is this the item I need, and is there more than one? I don't remember seeing that part when I disassembled the router.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Trey; the brushes will be behind a couple of small screw plugs. Take them out carefully as they may be spring loaded, as in "where the &^$$# did that part go?!"


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## TreyC (Sep 8, 2012)

I appreciate all the replies. I've used a few different forums and you guys are very helpful and quick with replies. But after some thought, I looked on craigslist and found a very similar router for $30 with the case. Assuming that it works, I'll check before I buy. I think I'm gonna go that route rather than buy the brushes, pay the shipping and wait when it could be something different and it still not work. Thanks for the help though.


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

Dmeadows said:


> Any power tool that can just start by itself is DANGEROUS! DON'T just put up with it, for safety sake!



It does not start by itself.
I have the trigger depressed and holding on with both hands.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bill, you need to replace the power cord if the switch is working properly. This happens a lot; a cord has a wire break but it can not be seen inside the insulation. Some times the wire ends touch completing the circuit, some times not.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

If the tools can stop by itself, it can also start by itself... as long as the switch is depressed! With routers, locking switches are the norm, not the exception.

In my book this makes any tool dangerous in this condition!

Mike is also right.. power cords will tend to break usually at point of stress, such as where it enters the tool, or at the plug. They rarely break any where else. They are usually fairly inexpensive to replace. Way cheaper than a trip to the ER!

Safety first!!!!


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## hccman (Nov 26, 2014)

*Regarding Craftsman 315.174921*

Hello,

I'm looking for an old 315.741921 for parts. I was wondering if you still had the malfunctioning router you wrote about in your post. Did you get it working? If not, are you interested in selling it? Or, do you know anyone that might have what I'm looking for?

Would greatly appreciate any feedback!

Thanks,
Ron

Correction!! Model # is 315.174921! Sorry for the confusion.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Trey...it might be possible that the lock/unlock lever is not traveling sufficiently to disengage the (likely) microswitch inside the housing marked "see note. A" on page 14. Assuming you have such microswitch it is intended to cut power when you slide the lever to lock to change bits. Jiggle the heck out of the lever side to side to see if the symptoms change. It is possible some dust on the microswitch might be keeping it from disengaging... Good luck...holler if you're in a troubleshooting mode...you'll get many more ideas from the forum members...

Nick


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