# How do I make cone shaped or tapered hole?



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

I sharpened some of my chisels today and I want to make a holder for them to hang in but some of my chisels have tapered shafts. I made a holder for my craftsman chisels in 1971, but they were straight shafts. I lost a couple of them and bought Stanley which doesn’t fit my old holder.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Maybe with a dovetail bit?


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

cocobolo1 said:


> Maybe with a dovetail bit?


Thats an interesting idea Keith. I hope you mean putting it into a drill motor because I'd be afraid to try to route it.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Thats an interesting idea Keith. I hope you mean putting it into a drill motor because I'd be afraid to try to route it.


Well, I think you could use a router on a new piece of wood...not on that holder that you have now.

Otherwise, you could use something like a Japanese saw, or even a dovetail saw to re-cut the one you have now. I think I would be inclined to make a new one, after all, you're going to need it bigger than that when you get that new set of chisels! 0


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

I was just looking through my router bits and found a bit with about the same taper, but not sure how to do it. I guess I could make two pieces on my router table and glue them together. I could then cut the opening after the glues dries.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I'm not sure the shape of the hole would matter that much as the weight should hang by the base of the handle. If there is an issue with how well they stay on the rack then I would embed a 1/4" rare earth magnet in the body of the holder behind each blade. Lee Valley sells them cheap by the 10 pack and someone else posted a source for 100 that was dirt cheap.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

cocobolo1 said:


> Well, I think you could use a router on a new piece of wood...not on that holder that you have now.
> 
> Otherwise, you could use something like a Japanese saw, or even a dovetail saw to re-cut the one you have now. I think I would be inclined to make a new one, after all, you're going to need it bigger than that when you get that new set of chisels! 0


I do plan on making a new one because I still think I may find my other craftsman chisels.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I'm not sure the shape of the hole would matter that much as the weight should hang by the base of the handle. If there is an issue with how well they stay on the rack then I would embed a 1/4" rare earth magnet in the body of the holder behind each blade. Lee Valley sells them cheap by the 10 pack and someone else posted a source for 100 that was dirt cheap.


Thanks Charles, I just bought some earth magnets from Lee Valley, but if I'm going to use magnets then I would be better off using a magnetic tool holder which I might do


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Use a tapered reamer.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

why not perdrill then use a step drill bit


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Well as it turns out I do have a brand new magnet tool holder that I've never used. It provably makes more sense because I can add more chisels with worrying about the size. I just need to find some wall space to put it


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Get a big countersink and drill the hole then bury a counter sink to ream it out, then bandsaw out the side. A tapered reamer would do too. 
I haven't seen one for years but we used to have large tapered reamers for a brace and bit. They would work too. 
Or take one of those sharp chisels and drill and hole and chisel out a taper.

Herb


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Herb Stoops said:


> Get a big countersink and drill the hole then bury a counter sink to ream it out, then bandsaw out the side. A tapered reamer would do too.
> I haven't seen one for years but we used to have large tapered reamers for a brace and bit. They would work too.
> Or take one of those sharp chisels and drill and hole and chisel out a taper.
> 
> Herb


Thanks Herb, I actually have a tapered reamer as part of my old brace and bit collection. I forgot all about it until you mentioned it. I keep the collection put up so out of sight, out of mind.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Gotta agree with Charles - why the need for tapered holes? I've hung chisels on a holder same as yours for years with no problem. The slot only needs to be wide enough to slide the blade into, then spin it so the flat faces out. The handle of the chisel will support it on the holder.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

¾''Baltic Birch ply because of the strength...
layout what you want for material removal on the face..
transfer layout to the back side... (just in case)..
pick your dovetail router bit...
install it in the table..
cut your slots w/ the ply face up..
use your fence, miter gauge and feather boards in tandem to do this..
rip to width as required...

or...

free hand by using a speed square as a straight guide....
make sure everything is soundly clamp in place when you do this...

or...

rip a piece of ¾'' tight grained wood or BB to width..
decide on length of spacing between chisels..
set up the TS for angle...
cross cut you 1st block...
set the drop aside...
flip the working piece over and cut your next block...
repeat as often as you need to...

glue the blocks to edge of a piece of ply spaced for the chisels...
if you glue a stand off strip of wood to the bottom/backside of the ply when you mount the rack it will tilt to insure the chisels stay put..


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

vchiarelli said:


> Gotta agree with Charles - why the need for tapered holes? I've hung chisels on a holder same as yours for years with no problem. The slot only needs to be wide enough to slide the blade into, then spin it so the flat faces out. The handle of the chisel will support it on the holder.


You could use a rat tail file to round out the slot slightly so the handle nestles in a bit. Not really needed, but easy.


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

Predrill and use a tapered bit?
They are dead handy for enlarging holes in sheet materials anyway and also for fitting motocross bike plastics where the holes aren't always perfectly where they need to be.









You can also get the stepped ones that are usually for cutting precise sized holes in sheet materials.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

demographic said:


> Predrill and use a tapered bit?
> They are dead handy for enlarging holes in sheet materials anyway and also for fitting motocross bike plastics where the holes aren't always perfectly where they need to be.
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks Scott, 
I have different sizes of step drills that I used as an electrician, but I’m really finicky about them. I spent a lot of money on them because I depended on them for my work and never use them on wood, but that’s just me. 

I do like those Stepless Drill Bits you have there and I see they sell them at Harbor Freight for only $7. I don’t know how often I’d use them a lot, but I think they might be real handy to have around so I’m going to buy them. Thanks


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## Bill White (Oct 21, 2015)

Use a chisel.
Bill


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## Dr Neon (Apr 15, 2010)

*Use a reamer*

You're on the right track. A pipe reamer, properly sized and tapered,
makes a fine wood reamer, as well. Drill your wood with a bit just a
little under the small end of the taper. Then change out your bit for a
pipe reamer of the correct size/taper, and finish the hole. A little hand sanding and you will be set.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

So I was looking at my chisels and thinking that I wish they at least matched. Then I started looking to see how much it would cost to buy some more Stanley’s to make a set when I found this complete 6 piece IRWIN set already in a nice wood case. I’m tempted, but then I’d have to do something with my other chisels. Oh well! :smile:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

I was given that set as a gift.....
sure didn't get my money's worth...

English made FatMax... NOT chinese...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

and do what with your other chisels...

make a couple of paring chisels out of them...
regrind them to LA and clean up glue seepage/squeeze out...
regrind to a LA paring chisel and turn it into trimmer...
skew angle another for rabbet clean up...
pick a couple to be sacrificial to preserve the others...


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Stick, Someone gave me a Home Depot gift card for Christmas and I was going buy the FatMax set. But they didn’t have them when I went over there. They had a set of Buck Bros for the same price, but I didn’t know anything about them so I left.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Amazon.com: Stanley 16-971 6-Piece FatMax Short Blade Chisel Set


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

JohnnyB60 said:


> So I was looking at my chisels and thinking that I wish they at least matched. Then I started looking to see how much it would cost to buy some more Stanley’s to make a set when I found this complete 6 piece IRWIN set already in a nice wood case. I’m tempted, but then* I’d have to do something with my other chisels*. Oh well! :smile:


Why? is it a rule that if you buy one tool you have to get rid of another? NOPE - you can't have too many tools

I have a set of Marples that I bought years ago, but they weren't Irwin, still had the blue handles, so maybe Irwin bought the company? Don't know.

And I've got some old cheap Stanley's

I also bought a set from Lee Valley - nice chisels, hold their edge but they weren't this expensive - prices have gone up considerably.

Lee Valley Butt Chisels - Lee Valley Tools


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

JohnnyB60 said:


> So I was looking at my chisels and thinking that I wish they at least matched. Then I started looking to see how much it would cost to buy some more Stanley’s to make a set when I found this complete 6 piece IRWIN set already in a nice wood case. I’m tempted, *but then I’d have to do something with my other chisels*. Oh well! :smile:


...use 'em...?

Can you imagine several hundred years from now some archeologist uncovers the site where your house was and looks for artifacts...what would you have him find...a couple of chisels or a whole box full...imagine the impression...! ! !

See...? :surprise:


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

vchiarelli said:


> Why? is it a rule that if you buy one tool you have to get rid of another? NOPE - you can't have too many tools
> 
> I have a set of Marples that I bought years ago, but they weren't Irwin, still had the blue handles, so maybe Irwin bought the company? Don't know.
> 
> ...


Vince, I was reading the reviews on Amazon and someone asked the question of where they were made. The answer from Irwin was that they used to be made in England but are now made in China so maybe they were bought by Irwin.

That set from Lee Valley looks nice but they are way out of my price range.:|


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Nickp said:


> ...use 'em...?
> 
> Can you imagine several hundred years from now some archeologist uncovers the site where your house was and looks for artifacts...what would you have him find...a couple of chisels or a whole box full...imagine the impression...! ! !
> 
> See...? :surprise:


Nick, I do like complete sets and that’s for sure, but I have to say that I was more interested in the nice box of this set. LOL I guess I could make a box.

I originally wanted to hang my chisels on my tool board with the cutting edge down just to protect them and myself so now I’m just going to make a hanging holder for the 3 Stanley’s because that’s about all the room I have. I'll put the rest including any new chisels that I may buy in a drawer like Stick has.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Stick486 said:


> Amazon.com: Stanley 16-971 6-Piece FatMax Short Blade Chisel Set


I looked at this ad and right now you get an additional $10 off since it is a Stanley item. My price is $43.99 prime. Sounds like a good price.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

coxhaus said:


> I looked at this ad and right now you get an additional $10 off since it is a Stanley item. My price is $43.99 prime. Sounds like a good price.


Lee, I just put it in my cart, but I didn't get the additional $10 off. Do you have to be a prime member or do I have to wait until I actually pay for it?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

coxhaus said:


> I looked at this ad and right now you get an additional $10 off since it is a Stanley item. My price is $43.99 prime. Sounds like a good price.


just make sure they are made in England...
the made in China ones will leave you wanting...


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I am not seeing the $10 off now. The first time I linked to the chisels on the web page it said it would qualify for the Stanley $10 off promotion for any thing over $50 from Stanley through April 1. Look around it must be there somewhere. I saw it.

It also states the chisel's origin is the UK.

PS
I clicked on Stanley and here is the promotion but it does not come up on the chisels any more.
STANLEY $10 off $50 promotion


From March 7, 2016, through April 1, 2016, when you spend $50 or more on select STANLEY tools, you can get $10 off at checkout when shipped and sold by Amazon.com. Discount automatically applied at checkout.

PSS
Maybe Amazon sold all the ones from them and now they are coming from Nothern Tool and don't qualify.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Now it is showing the $10 off again. I guess I will order them. I got the $10 off when I checked out.

I have no idea what is going on with this web page.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Did anybody else order chisels? I got an email saying they shipped. And the price was 43.99 since I am a prime member with the $10 off.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

coxhaus said:


> Did anybody else order chisels? I got an email saying they shipped. And the price was 43.99 since I am a prime member with the $10 off.


Lee, I just placed my order and got $10 off. :smile:


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

*Turned out to be a total waste of time.*

After all drilling and tapering, I ended up with a plain dovetail because I couldn’t get the chisels into the holes without cutting the tapers out. I would have been better off to just put my large dovetail bit in to the router table and made 3 simple cuts. Oh well chalk it up to lesson learned 

Since I want the cutting edge down and not fall out, I guess I’ll have use a tiny bungee strap to keep the handles from tipping over.I haven't finished cutting up the pieces because i haven't decided what to do with it now.


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