# Routing end grain



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I have had a LARGE problem with tearout when doing end grain, even when taking very small cuts. Up until now I have been using a modified craftsman shaper with a fixed 10,000 rpm speed. I have upgraded to a table with variable speed router. Question is how much affect would speed have on tearout for end cuts. Most of what I have been doing so far is with pine but tearout has been terrible on drawer locks. Not even on just endgrain but cross grain in general. On one drawer side I did I lost nearly half the lock.:cray: 
My feeling is that it had a lot to do with the low rpm but I don't think I want it running full bore either. 
Any thoughts on this? I have another batch of drawers to do in a few weeks and I would like to have these come out somewhat close.
Thanks


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You haven't mentioned what sort of cutter you're using John, what you describe is usually caused by a blunt cutter. How about a couple of photos which will make it easier for members to make suggestions.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Harry. My biggest problem was with a MLCS 1/4" shank drawer lock. The bit was brand new but that doesn't necessarily mean it was particularly sharp. :sad:The MLCS instruction video says that "after setup the cuts are made in a single pass". The exception was the drawer front in the case of an overlay. I used double feather boards on the table to help me hold the sides vertically against the fence and fed as slowly as I could.
That was my first attempt at using drawer locks and, after reviewing the process, it was apparent to me that the video didn't exactly cover the whole story. I thought of a couple of ways to reduce cuts and simplify setups for this operation.
Can't get any photos on this project, it already glued up and in use. I was making drawers for my workbench and, as it was my first dance with this thing I wasn't really expecting perfection so I went ahead and used them.
I also had something of a problem with a MLCS triple bead bit while making some picture frames where it would tear out some chuncks of the bead midway or so through the cut. I started blaming the rpms for this also but got to thinking that I wasn't paying a whole lot of attention to the stock and more to the equipment and may have been running against the grain or went through some small knotty areas that I hadn't noticed. I am going to try this bit again at higher rpms and if not better go shopping for a better bit. Sanding multibeads is such a PIA. Again, no pictures of this either, I tossed 'em.
Thanks for the input Harry.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'm sure John that we'll see pictures during the next batch, wont we?


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Whenever you are routing endgrain you should always place a scrap board against the edge of your part so that the router bit exits your part and cuts into the scrap. The scrap will prevent the edge of the part from chipping out. When cutting on a router table, use a piece of scrap as a pusher block to push your part past the cutter. If hand routing, clamp a scrap board against your part so that the edge to be cut is inline with the scrap. Then make the cut passing the router bit along the edge of the part and cutting into the scrap. The part will have no chipout.

CharleyL


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## RealCom (Jun 18, 2009)

I was having the same problem routing cutting boards on a table router. When I turned up the speed from 15000 to 22000, the problem went away. ALWAYS route the end grain first and when using routertable always move your piece from right to left.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

harrysin said:


> I'm sure John that we'll see pictures during the next batch, wont we?


Sure thing Harry, I did that project before I found this forum and didn't have anyone to show pictures to anyway.

CharleyL. / Realcom- I tried double face tape on the edges of the drawer sides and the bit just ripped them off. Thought about a clamp but the clamp would have to interfere with the fence. If I clamped so it would not interfere with the fence it would be so far from the cut it likely wouldn't help much, I put 4" high fences on the table specifically to run stock vertically. I feel that if I can get the blowout minimized by adjusting the spindle speed, a double face tape backer would eliminate the proglem
I think I will try some test pieces here in a few days and run at 18-23,000 to see if that makes a difference. 
I'm a big believer in featherboards, usually have one clamped to the fence and another on the table. If running vertical I will stack two on the table and feed the stock with my hands along the top of the fence, about 5" from the bit. Had these appendages for quite some time and have become somewhat accustomed to having them.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

John, I will test cut a couple of drawer lock joints this weekend and post photos. I would run the router at close to full speed, maybe slowed down slightly since the diameter of the cutter is over 1". You can view my method and see if we are doing anything different.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

John, Can you use wider stock, then rip to size, eliminating the tear-out? Maybe even wide enough to get two matching sides. I have used this method for cope cuts when making cabinet doors.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

RustyW said:


> John, Can you use wider stock, then rip to size, eliminating the tear-out? Maybe even wide enough to get two matching sides. I have used this method for cope cuts when making cabinet doors.


Mike, I would appreciate that. I went back and looked at the MLCS video again and couldn't see anything different except the results. :fie:

Rusty - I may have to resort to that but I hope not as I would need to re-rip both edges of the boards. Like I said in the original post, I was stuck trying to use a shaper as a router table with a fixed 10,000 rpm motor. Now that I have variable speed available I hope to be able to remedy most of it via speed control. And again, reripping the stock won't do anything for the middle tearout I was getting on cross grain beading and drawer locks.
I'm thinking maybe a 15-18,000 range would work well with that size bit. Seems to me its about 1-1/2" diameter. 

Thanks all for the input.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mike said:


> John, I will test cut a couple of drawer lock joints this weekend and post photos. I would run the router at close to full speed, maybe slowed down slightly since the diameter of the cutter is over 1". You can view my method and see if we are doing anything different.


I'll be up at the crack of dawn on Monday, Sunday evening your time Mike, to view the pictures, please don't disappoint me.


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