# Router fence build



## NJW63 (May 22, 2020)

I'm building my 1st router table. As I assembled the fence, I noticed that is not quite square top to bottom but it is flat. Is this going to cause problems? How would I correct something like that? As for the split fence face that i'm attaching, what is the best way to cut the 2 channels on each side? I attempted to use my drill press and jig saw but turned out to be a mess.

I can't believe that i'm showing this table after seeing what the members of this forum can make.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

are you saying it isn't square to the table??? if so, yes it will matter...
got side and back views of the fence you can post???

could you elaborate more on the 2 channels you want to cut...
are they the T tracks in the table for the fence adjustment??? 
if they are the slots in the fence's face, see the picture for the simplest way...

will you be covering the fence and table w/ HPL???


and wadda mean *''I can't believe that I'm showing this table''*???
your table looks great...

.


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## NJW63 (May 22, 2020)

The slots are in the fence face. A slot cut all the way through and a wider cut halfway through to allow for the bolt head.

For the out of square issue, i'll have to add pictures tomorrow


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## NJW63 (May 22, 2020)

I like that guide. I'll try to find one for my Bosch.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

NJW63 said:


> The slots are in the fence face. A slot cut all the way through and a wider cut halfway through to allow for the bolt head.
> 
> For the out of square issue, I'll have to add pictures tomorrow


what are you using for bolts????
I find toilet flange bolts the cheapest and easiest to use...
you will need to cut a stepped slot...
one for the bolt shank and one on top of that slot to fit the head of the flange bolt...


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## NJW63 (May 22, 2020)

Stick486 said:


> what are you using for bolts????
> I find toilet flange bolts the cheapest and easiest to use...


POWERTEC 71068 T-Track Knobs with 1/4-20 by 1-1/2" Hex Bolts and Washers


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## NJW63 (May 22, 2020)

POWERTEC 71068 T-Track Knobs with 1/4-20 by 1-1/2" Hex Bolts and Washers


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

NJW63 said:


> I like that guide. I'll try to find one for my Bosch.


it's the RA1054... 









that Makita is shown using a pair of guides opposing each other...
if you are in a hurry just use a straight edge made from most anything you have laying around...
or a clamp on straight edge...










or...........
make a make a jig...
to use this jig it take a top bearing mortising bit or a straight bit and guide bushing...

.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

NJW63 said:


> POWERTEC 71068 T-Track Knobs with 1/4-20 by 1-1/2" Hex Bolts and Washers


hex headed bolts will slip/turn free after a time..
use the flanged toilet bolts in ¼/20...
you'll only need to recess for the head about 1/8'' and it will never slip/turn on you...
the slot for the bolt head will look like a T slot when you are done...


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

NJW63 said:


> The slots are in the fence face. A slot cut all the way through and a wider cut halfway through to allow for the bolt head.
> 
> For the out of square issue, i'll have to add pictures tomorrow


For those slots the jig Stick showed is great but remember that you need to make those in 3-4 passes, not in one. You also could have used T-Track dadoed into the mounting plate for the fence but I can't see if that's a flat surface or not, such as a 3/4" board. If so you could use two pieces of T-track cut to the needed size.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

It doesn't matter if the fence is square to the table. For that matter, it could be installed diagonally. All that really matters is that the edge of whatever you care routing can slide along the fence without getting stuck on something. Is there a dust collector in the back? If not you need one and can get one at Rockler that will hook up to a shop vac. You can wire it so that the vac turns on when the router turns on. Your table looks great and will do everything that a $400 dollar table will do. I would add a miter slot in the table and tee tracks on the fence to hold feather boards on the table and fence.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

mgmine said:


> _It doesn't matter if the fence is square to the table. For that matter, it could be installed diagonally. _All that really matters is that the edge of whatever you care routing can slide along the fence without getting stuck on something. Is there a dust collector in the back? If not you need one and can get one at Rockler that will hook up to a shop vac. You can wire it so that the vac turns on when the router turns on. Your table looks great and will do everything that a $400 dollar table will do. I would add a miter slot in the table and tee tracks on the fence to hold feather boards on the table and fence.


I believe the OP meant the fence wasn't vertically square to the table...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

NJW63 said:


> I'm building my 1st router table. As I assembled the fence, I noticed that is not quite square top to bottom but it is flat. Is this going to cause problems? How would I correct something like that? As for the split fence face that i'm attaching, what is the best way to cut the 2 channels on each side? I attempted to use my drill press and jig saw but turned out to be a mess.
> 
> I can't believe that i'm showing this table after seeing what the members of this forum can make.


It looks like you have some square stock behind the fence holding it vertical...I would suggest making new ones that are perfectly 90deg and replace the ones you have on there now. Make sure whatever you used to make them cuts a perfect 90deg...

The rest looks good...good luck...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> It looks like you have some square stock behind the fence holding it vertical...I would suggest making new ones that are perfectly 90deg and replace the ones you have on there now. Make sure whatever you used to make them cuts a perfect 90deg...
> 
> The rest looks good...good luck...


Instead of making a new one use this fence as the prototype...
make modifications/improvements to it...
test drive it...
change it some more...
keep the improvements and ditch the dislikes when the OP builds the V.xxx.....


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> Instead of making a new one use this fence as the prototype...
> make modifications/improvements to it...
> test drive it...
> change it some more...
> keep the improvements and ditch the dislikes when the OP builds the V.xxx.....



I meant the blocks behind the fence...not the fence...:grin:


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## NJW63 (May 22, 2020)

Here is the fence minus the sliding face pieces


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

is the square square???

Use the factory edge of a piece of plywood or an edge that you know is perfectly straight to align the short side of your square. Draw a line along the edge of the long side of the square. Then flip the tool over, aligning the base of the mark with the same edge of the square; draw another line.

If the two marks don’t align, your square is not square....
if not, we'll go to plan ''B''...

remember to check both the inside of the square as well as the outside...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> I meant the blocks behind the fence...not the fence...:grin:


that plywood's surface may be very irregular and giving up poor reads...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Norm; thanks for the pictures. They certainly clarify what you were referring to. 
You could pull all the screws, and run the base through the tablesaw, separating it from the fence portion, but then you still need to remove the blocking.
If it were me, I'd just remake it and incorporate some of the suggestions that have been made here into the new one.
Perhaps only make the blocking as high as your TS blade will extend upwards (include the base ht in the calculation.)
Install the blocking, then making sure the blade is perfectly perpendicular, run the base and blocking assembly through the saw removing a whisker from the base and blocking edges, leaving you with a perfect 90deg. face. _Then_ install your fence face.
It isn't critical that the blocking reach to the top of the fence face; it's only there to give it structural integrity, and establish that perfect 90 deg. to the table.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Hey, Norm; thanks for the pictures. They certainly clarify what you were referring to.
> You could pull all the screws, and run the base through the tablesaw, separating it from the fence portion, but then you still need to remove the blocking.
> If it were me, I'd just remake it and incorporate some of the suggestions that have been made here into the new one.
> Perhaps only make the blocking as high as your TS blade will extend upwards (include the base ht in the calculation.)
> ...



Good save...! I actually understood it...! :dance3:


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## NJW63 (May 22, 2020)

The square appears square. On to plan B...wait what's plan B!!!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Hey, Norm; thanks for the pictures. They certainly clarify what you were referring to.
> You could pull all the screws, and run the base through the tablesaw, separating it from the fence portion, but then you still need to remove the blocking.
> If it were me, I'd just remake it and incorporate some of the suggestions that have been made here into the new one.
> Perhaps only make the blocking as high as your TS blade will extend upwards (include the base ht in the calculation.)
> ...


raise the blade on the TS to the max...
make absolutely sure it is 90° to the saw's table...
shave the bottom of the fence a fuzz after the screws have been removed...

but 1st thing.. make sure the square is square...

the OP could HPL the RT's top to give him a smoother surface to work from...
WTB that plywood's veneer is irregular...
the test for that is to move the fence forward and backwards all the while taking squareness readings...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

NJW63 said:


> The square appears square. On to plan B...wait what's plan B!!!


did you test/check it???...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

NJW63 said:


> The square appears square. On to plan B...wait what's plan B!!!


check the table's top for irregularities...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Nice job on the table. Speed squares are notoriously unsquare. The line test Stick mentioned will tell the tale. I bought a Rockler brand draftsman's triangle with a 90 degree corner. It is pretty thick as those things go. You can use any high end draftsman's square, or an engineer's square of good quality. Pix.

Setting the TS blade to 90 to the table is vital. Even a slight error will make it very difficult to assemble anything. This is where the Wixey digital angle gauge comes in. Only about $30 on Amazon, it is a must have item, now uses AAA batteries and is backlit. Pix.

The dust collection port behind the fence is another Rockler item, also available from many other sources. I only have one woodworking store in driving range and it's a Rockler store. I have learned that for dust collection, you cannot mix brands. 4 inches is not 4 inches, it seems. I only use Rockler connectors and hoses anymore. They seem to have worked it out. Can't vouch for any other brands. Pix.

You may have already resolved your questions, so I'm adding details for anyone else thinking of building their own table and fence. Precision in cutting angles makes woodworking much easier.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@NJW63
so what is your next plan of attack???


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## ScottyDBQ (Jul 5, 2008)

Stick and Tom are right about confirming your square is square. A draftsman's square is usually very accurate. Since they are plastic, you don't want to overuse them as their accuracy can be affected if they get worn, but with a little care you can use them to check for square and to make sure your other squares are square. You might hold a draftsman's square upright on your table saw or some other flat surface and butt your speed square, combination square, or other square up against it to see if there is any gap between the edge of one square and the edge of the other square. If you do get a draftsman square like the one in Tom's picture, make sure you get one where the short sides are 10 or more inches long so you can check the full length of your square. They do make some short drafting squares with one or both short sides 8" or less in length, a quality square with longer sides can be a valuable tool. If there is a art center or blueprint shop nearby, they may have quality squares, or go with the Rockler square that Tom photo shows.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Hi Norm the forum has given you some great advice... A quick fix on the squareness of the fence you can add a thin (1/6 to 1/8 inch thick) piece of wood to the bottom furthest from the vertical about a quarter to half inch wide. It will tilt it to square. For the back of the split fence keep it simple and add a T-Track..... Good job on the table and fitting the Insert Plate!


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## NJW63 (May 22, 2020)

Wow such great feedback. I will definitely pick up some of the tools mentioned to check for square. The idea of this being a working prototype sounds like the way to go, especially since this is one of the first things I've made other than some simple benches. After checking my TS blade for square, i'm going to try and shave the bottom of the fence. If that feels out of my depth, I might try sanding it. I'm going to swap the fence hex bolts for toilet flange bolts and add dust collection. It will be a slow but enjoyable process for the coming weekends. I will be sure to post the progress and yell for help when not making any. Many thanks to you all. I'm glad that I joined this group.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

things to do....

make sure you have a good square...
take a belt sander belt and make a sanding block..
straight edge check the table and fence face for flatness and high spots...
knock down the high spots by hand sanding... not by powered sanding...
add HPL to the table top and fence face...
test the fence for square to table w/ the fence clamped down...
correct if need be..
after achieving your happiness w/ the squareness add HPL to the bottom of the fence...
add DC to the table and fence...
wax and buff out all of the HPL...

.


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## NJW63 (May 22, 2020)

Great to-do list. Thanks Stick.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

NJW63 said:


> Great to-do list. Thanks Stick.


I got more...
you do windows????


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## NJW63 (May 22, 2020)

You bet. I've broken at least 10.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

good...
lets add mop floors and laundry to the list...


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

NJW63 said:


> I'm building my 1st router table. As I assembled the fence, I noticed that is not quite square top to bottom but it is flat. Is this going to cause problems? How would I correct something like that? As for the split fence face that i'm attaching, what is the best way to cut the 2 channels on each side? I attempted to use my drill press and jig saw but turned out to be a mess.
> 
> I can't believe that i'm showing this table after seeing what the members of this forum can make.


If I have time tomorrow, I'll show you something that makes yours look like every woodworkers dream table. It's all about if it works for what you use to it for.


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## AndyP73 (May 15, 2020)

Well done on the table! Looks great! Don't stress over it not being totally perfect ,you can always fix stuff up and I mean.. it's your first router table. I'm making my first one at the moment too, so it's really just a big experiment to see what works and what doesn't, maybe it'll be ideal, but probably it's just the first in an evolution.
I mean all it's really got to be is sheet of wood (or something) with a hole drilled in it! If you put in a split fence you could always shim it out in places til you get it reasonably flush!


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## bfblack (May 2, 2012)

Don't be bashful about showing a work in progress or asking questions. The only stupid question is the question never asked.


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> that plywood's surface may be very irregular and giving up poor reads...


I used solid oak for mine, and trued everything up on a large mirror with self stick sandpaper on it .


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