# Table Saw Sliding Table



## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I love my Rigid table saw but cutting sheet goods on it scares the crap out of me. I am not so bad with long rip cuts but cross cuts with the stock miter guage, especially on anything wider then about 30 inches is death defying. I was thinking about buying this sliding table attachment from Busy Bee. Just wondered if anyone had one or something similar and wanted to chime in. It's on sale till Saturday, so I should make a decision. I will need to make a couple of modifications to the rails on my saw but that is simple enough.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

!...that's a $600 accessory, Deb!! Have you tried the setup that Bobj3 was recommending, the circular saw mounted to the clamped rail?
(You realize that you can pick up a used RAS for 1/2 of what they're asking.)
Seems like a major investment to solve a problem that has several viable alternatives, but yes, I don't disagree with the awkwardness of crosscutting big panels; I don't like that first cut either.


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## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

First you need to think about something like *this* to cut your panels down to a manageable size. Accuracy isn't that important as you will want to cut to oversize in any case.

Then consider a crosscut sled to handle the smaller panels. INCRA make this splendid *sled*.

Well that's the route I've gone


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Hi Deb,

A sliding table with miter fence is a lot better for doing angled cuts because it's mass is so much larger than that of a basic miter. The one I have really doesn't make cutting full sized sheets any safer or easier because it doesn't extend that far out of the front of the saw.

I have ripped down a few sheets of 1/2" ply into 5.5" x 96" strips using two in-feed stands and one out-feed stand. The only other two full sheet break downs I have done at home on the TS were cutting a sheet of half inch into thirds (16" wide each x 96" long) and I had help with that cut.

The better of my two table saws has a sliding table built into it. In the case of the Ryobi BTS-3100 (and BTS-3000) the sliding table is 1/2 to 2/3 the size of the add on sliding table BusyBee is selling. It doesn't have the telescoping edge support either that can be extended out from the left hand side of the miter fence, like the Busy Bee product does.

I watched the video for the one you were looking at and can't help but notice they didn't actually do any cuts at all during the presentation, let alone one with a full sheet of plywood.

When mounted on the saw it was designed for, the miter fence may well extend forward 50 inches from the front of the blade and allow the cross cutting of a full sheet. I still have to wonder about its stability when it is that far forward, especially considering a sheet of 3/4" ply weighs roughly 75lbs/30 Kg....

It would help to see the thing actually being used to take down a full sheet of 3/4, including the placement of the material on the saw before the cut.

I'm not saying a advertiser would forget to turn the camera on when two big guys were struggling to the sheet in place without tipping the saw over or marring the wood, but you know...seeing is believing...

I'm so puny I would have a hard time getting it up and over the fence without some scrapes..

It will be intersting to see if other members have comments about sliding tables. I know there is at least two more BT3k users here!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I remember seeing an ingenious rolling table that another woman woodworker designed for her shop. It was built to help her unload the 4x8's from her van, and directly onto this 'dolly' that _tilted_ from vertical to horizontal when she was at the saw. She was then able to easily slide the panel onto the saw table without getting herself (or the panel) damaged. I think it may have been a 'This Old House' episode but I really can't remember.
Full marks for ingenuity!


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Geez Deb, you could get a Festool Tracksaw for that kind of dough. Not that I'm a huge fan of Festool (because I'm not, at least not the pricing), but I'd be much more tempted to spend that kind of money on that.

I'd invest the money to build a nice panel saw as mentioned, or a nice guide and circular saw before I bought that, but that's just me. A simple MDF guide and a sheet of foam on the floor will certainly do.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

For cuts like what you are talking about, I made a jig that is basically just a piece of 6" wide by 4' long 1/2" poplar with a 1x2 glued on the end at 90 degrees. I clamp that to the piece I am cutting and run my circular saw along the edge. It is 1/2" thick to keep it under the motor of the CS, and 6" wide to keep the clamps out of the way too.

Since the edge of the perpendicular part of the jig was cut by the CS the first time I used the jig, now all I have to do is line that up with the line I want to cut and clamp it down.

I hold it up off the ground with some 2x4s and set the blade depth to just a little more than the thickness of the panel.

I think bobj made his own tracksaw-like jig with some angle iron and a mod to his CS. Maybe someday, I'll do something like that, but that is for another day down the road.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

+1 on the Festool or any other track saw (Dewalt and Makita both have one). While I personally haven't tried one, I have heard enough from those who have that these are great saws, and do a great job breaking down sheet good. These have a riving knife built-in on them which helps make an even better cut.

For a very low cost alternative, I have the place I buy my plywood from do the first 2 or 3 cuts for me on their panel saw. That way it is easier to get home, and easier to manage on my machines when I do the clean-up cuts.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hilton; Neat idea! Combined with Bobj3's guide rail it's a great solution to this panel crosscut issue. Thanks for that link!!


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Hi Deb, Grizzly has a remarkably similar model here: T10223 Sliding Table Attachment as well as this model: G8010 Swing Type Sliding Table for G7209 & G7210 14" Cabinet Saw 

I think that's a great idea! Please keep us posted as to what you decide.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

CanuckGal said:


> I love my Rigid table saw but cutting sheet goods on it scares the crap out of me. I am not so bad with long rip cuts but cross cuts with the stock miter guage, especially on anything wider then about 30 inches is death defying. I was thinking about buying this sliding table attachment from Busy Bee. Just wondered if anyone had one or something similar and wanted to chime in. It's on sale till Saturday, so I should make a decision. I will need to make a couple of modifications to the rails on my saw but that is simple enough.



My vote would be a track saw for about the same price.
I have a Dewalt tracksaw. It tilts up to 47° and a plunge capacity of over 2". You can also make angle cuts. I have both the 59" and 102 " tracks.
I am not sure I could wrestle a 4' X 8' sheet of ply wood on the sliding sled on a table saw without damaging something.
Bottom line is IMHO you would more versatilty with a track saw be a Festool, Dewalt or Mikita.


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Thanks for sharing that Al. That is one sweet looking saw!



boogalee said:


> My vote would be a track saw for about the same price.
> I have a Dewalt tracksaw. It tilts up to 47° and a plunge capacity of over 2". You can also make angle cuts. I have both the 59" and 102 " tracks.
> I am not sure I could wrestle a 4' X 8' sheet of ply wood on the sliding sled on a table saw without damaging something.
> Bottom line is IMHO you would more versatilty with a track saw be a Festool, Dewalt or Mikita.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks for the input and some great ideas. I am completely out of shop space, I can barely get around in there now. There is definetely no room for a RAS. I have looked at many panel saw plans in the past but there is just no room even for the innovative one that swings out of the way. I currently break down sheet goods outside with a circular saw and a long extruded aluminum guide. It works well enough when I get all the math figured out. So I rough cut everything about 1/4" oversize and then clean it up on the TS. It's doing all this double cutting I am trying to avoid. I don't know that I would wrestle a full 3/4" sheet onto the table saw slide or no slide. But I have been making lots of cabinets lately and some pieces are 72" long and 30" wide. Try as I may I cannot get those measurements exact with a skillsaw. Also I haven't found a skillsaw blade yet that doesn't leave ugly tearout I can only clean up on the TS. I have tried zero clearance bottoms and masking tape with the skillsaw but I don't get the same finished edge I can get on the table saw with a good Freud blade. I don't know that an expensive tracksaw would address that issue either. But yes this is an expensive accessory and I hoped it would make things easier for me. I ain't no spring chicken anymore...LOL. I also dislike making modifications to a tool that I can't undo, which would be the case if I put this on my TS. I was hoping for that magic "Oh yes buy it! It's the the best thing since sliced bread" rapport but I guess I'll mull it over for a couple more days.


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

72x30 is a whole lot of sheet for one piece, especially when it is the thick stuff.

I think the problem with 7.25" blades is they have a lot less circumference in which to pack teeth, resulting in a rougher cut. Abrasive blades will make a super smooth cut, typically leaving some scorch marks behind as they do and loading up with wood particles to the point they need to be cleaned often. I have had better luck using ones designed for concrete on wood than those designed for steel or aluminum. Still not a great plan for 'long cuts'.

Much like you, I am still stuck in the land of rough cutting it on the long side just to be able to get it into the garage when I get home. Most of the time, I have that done on the panel saw at the 'big box'. Of course their blades leave a rougher edge than any of mine, but sure makes the loading and unloading easier..


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Deb, it seems to me that a good track saw is essentially the same as a portable RAS. I bet you can get an extremely clean and straight cut with a good one that has no play. It might take some practice to learn how to use it effectively, but once you got the hang of it, I bet you would be happy with it.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

CanuckGal said:


> I currently break down sheet goods outside with a circular saw and a long extruded aluminum guide. It works well enough when I get all the math figured out. So I rough cut everything about 1/4" oversize and then clean it up on the TS. It's doing all this double cutting I am trying to avoid. I don't know that I would wrestle a full 3/4" sheet onto the table saw slide or no slide. But I have been making lots of cabinets lately and some pieces are 72" long and 30" wide. Try as I may I cannot get those measurements exact with a skillsaw. Also I haven't found a skillsaw blade yet that doesn't leave ugly tearout I can only clean up on the TS. I have tried zero clearance bottoms and masking tape with the skillsaw but I don't get the same finished edge I can get on the table saw with a good Freud blade. I don't know that an expensive tracksaw would address that issue either. But yes this is an expensive accessory and I hoped it would make things easier for me. I ain't no spring chicken anymore...LOL. I also dislike making modifications to a tool that I can't undo, which would be the case if I put this on my TS. I was hoping for that magic "Oh yes buy it! It's the the best thing since sliced bread" rapport but I guess I'll mull it over for a couple more days.


With a track saw there is no math involved. Measure 30" from the edge, line up the track and cut. Then do the same for 70".

I get no tearout. The track has a rubber edge that is designed not to leave tearout.

As far as tools go it is one of the best investments that I have made. I would not be without it. I like sliced bread so I'd have to call it a close race. LOL

If you can find a store or someone that has one I urge to try it out. You can go to youtube and search on Dewalt track saw. Watch the video and form your own opinion. I think you will be impressed.

Also if you have any questions on the Dewalt track saw give me a PM.

Good luck
Al


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Deb; you did notice that the Grizzly model has a fair warning...
"NOTICE: Installation usually requires permanent modification to your table saw or its parts. This modification may include cutting, grinding, drilling, and tapping threads in metal surfaces. Please read the Owner's Manual available online or contact Technical Support for additional details."
Your choice is probably similar(?).
The other thing that struck me is that the focus of the device(s) is/are _accuracy_, not safety or supporting a full 8' panel while you're trying to muscle it through the saw.
Sorry, it's a 'fail' for this guy.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Well I pulled the trigger and bought the sliding table! I will try to do a formal review on it later today but I used it for the first time yesterday and I have to say it is a great investment. I can see a few tools in my shop that will be a little less used now. For anyone who doesn't have room for a cabinet saw with a sliding table this is absolutely the way to go.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Deb

Where I'm based it is a requirement for trade shops to install a run-off table behind saw which is capable of supporting the size of material you are cutting - the run-off table prevents a lot of accidents and makes length ripping long stock much less fraught (so you don't scare the cr*p out of yourself). What that means is a lot of trade workshops have big run-off tables, normally 1.5 to 2 metres, but a rear run-off table still doesn't support the sheet when making a really narrow cut off the edge of a board. In reality to break-down sheet goods fully on a table saw you need a space of at least like 5.5 metres (18 ft) square to handle all the rip and crosscuts possible on an 8 x 4ft sheet (and still get yourself into the shop, as well). The ideal machine for the task is a large slider, such as an Altendorf, but for most small outfits (and home woodworkers, too) that's simply two much (money and space), so a hand circular saw, guide rail, pair of trestles and a couple of 4 x2s is a great way to do the initial breaking down of the sheet material into more manageable pieces leaving the table saw to do the final dimensioning. For crosscutting, in space terms, a radial arm saw or sliding compound mitre saw works far better than a sliding carraige because the workbench space either side of the saw can be used for other purposes when the saw is not in use. The sliding carraige you ordered will help you work more accurately and quickly, but I feel it simply isn't big enough to handle a lot of cuts on an 8 x 4ft sheet and it doesn't have enough support, especially for thinner sheet materials

Good luck with your purchase

PS Sorry if this sounds negative. It isn't meant to. Many years back I bought a 12in table saw with a small sliding carraige on the side (larger than the one you are buying, came with a scoring blade too and was the only brand new table saw I've ever bought) to do the same sorts of task - and because space was tight in my premises back then. The purchase turned out to be very frustrating because the saw wouldn't quite manage a 1220mm (4ft) crosscut and needed to be bolted to the floor to stop it from tipping over when handling 8 x 4ft sheets! (no run-off table either, so scary as hell on dsome cuts) I eventually bought a right hand table/rip fence extension for it and built a fold down run-off table to handle long length rips, but for many of the longer crosscuts I had to employ a portable circular saw and a batten. The end solution was to move to a bigger shop and buy a bigger saw.......... These days on installations (which is where I mainly work) I carry a Festool plunge saw and rails to achieve much the same as I did with that table with shorter crosscuts done on an SCMS, but that's mainly for sheet stock

Regards

Phil


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

boogalee said:


> My vote would be a track saw for about the same price.
> I have a Dewalt tracksaw. It tilts up to 47° and a plunge capacity of over 2". You can also make angle cuts. I have both the 59" and 102 " tracks.
> I am not sure I could wrestle a 4' X 8' sheet of ply wood on the sliding sled on a table saw without damaging something.
> Bottom line is IMHO you would more versatilty with a track saw be a Festool, Dewalt or Mikita.


h34r:
I read this thread last night and wanted to comment, but the last post was a while ago when she decided, bought a slider and was going to write a review. But since there was another post... My perspective.

Elsewhere here is my Jobsite Router Table "plus..."...

That rip/crosscut table itself makes 4x8 sheets fairly manageable and easy for me. But being I have disabilities, to make it easier or when I'm having a bad day, I have a lattice built for a 4x6 cutting table top that I clamp on top of that table. On that, I use tracksaw "type" jigs with "my" circular saw. Very accurate. 

Someone made a comment about available selection of 7 1/4 blades... and not being able to get that many teeth into it.(?) I have 7 1/4 inch blades ranging from 24 teeth to 104 teeth... Normal to thin kerf.

On bad days, I have a leg connected/hinged off the side of the table, with a block at the end, with a handle attached to that. I put the sheet onto that block and swing the handle up. It gets the sheet onto the table. Then I slide it into position.

When everything is done, everything gets packed up and hangs on a wall. I work on my own in spite of challenges. It's easy, accurate, portable and doesn't take up much room when not in use.

I guess there's hundreds of ways to get somewhere and be at the same destination. Personally, I have to look at how I get there and if it's right for me.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Ok the review is posted!


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