# What saw blades do you like?



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Questions pop up from time to time on which is a good choice in saw blades. Standard 1/8" kerf or thin kerf? How many teeth? Different blades for miter saws and table saws? Do you switch blades for different materials or use a general purpose blade? What size dado blade? Are variable or progressive teeth blades worth while?

What about circular saw blades? Small panel saw blades? Track saw blades? Specialty cutter blades? Table saw sanding disks? Blade stiffeners? What do you use?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

1) both standard and thin kerf on the TS, TK on the circ. saws (8 1/4" Dewalt and a Bosch 7 1/4" 40 tooth for breaking down plywood)
2) yes different blades for the SCMS ...80 tooth, and the TS same. I'm going back to using my old HSS hollow ground blade for cutting aluminum on the advice of you guys!
3) yes and yes
4) 8" dado set ...carbide tooth
5) no opinion on the progressive tooth design 

6) cast alloy sanding plate for the radial arm saw/ no blade stiffeners


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

1) both standard and thin kerf on the TS, TK on the circ. saws 6, 7, 8, 10 and 12'' diameters and tooth counts from 4 to 108 
2) yes different blades for the SCMS ...
3) yes and yes
4) 8" dado set ...carbide tooth
5) no opinion on the progressive tooth design
6) no blade stiffeners
7) almost the entire array of grinds and rakes...


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> 1
> 2) yes different blades for the SCMS ...80 tooth, and the TS same. I'm going back to using my old HSS hollow ground blade for cutting aluminum on the advice of you guys!


I started cutting heavier solid aluminum extrusions on my miter saw and got a little nervous about the "feel" so bought a Freud blade specifically for cutting non-ferrous material and have been very impressed so far. I've had pretty good luck cutting light sections - strip and light sheet - with the same 60T blade I used in my radial arm saw. Probably still have one of those hollow ground blades lying around somewhere, is there a limit to how thick the aluminum can be?


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Miter saw has a 12 inch Freud Industrial 80T blade. Makes smooth cuts.
Circular saw has a Freud Diablo 40T.
Track saw has a Freud Diablo 48T blade and a Festool 24T rip blade.
Table saw. Hmmm...mostly Irwin Marples 50T combination blade.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Thin and regular tooth Freud ripping blades. Prefer the glue line regular blade but it eats up more wood.

Use blade stiffeners with the thin rim rip and the Delta crosscut. They make a big difference. The Onsrud 60 and 80 tooth mitre saw blades don't need them. Sharpest blades I've ever used. 

Onsrud 24 tooth 8" dado. Even sharper than the mitre saw blades. 

Sears 80 tooth melamine blade. Actually is a pretty good blade. 

Most of the time I just use one of the rip blades on the TS and the mitre blades stay on the scms but the specialty blades go on when needed.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Can anyone answer Tom's question re Aluminum cutting?
_"...is there a limit to how thick the aluminum can be?"_


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Freud glue line for most ripping, 80 tooth Freud for ply and fine crosscutting (used most), 40 tooth crosscut on the sliding compound miter, all wide kerf. For breaking down ply, I often use a 40 tooth 6 1/2 inch thin curf crosscut (fine tooth), thin kerf in an 18 v DeWalt circular saw. Several Freud and DeWalt 7 1/2 blades for a circular saw. An 8 inch set of dado blades. All are carbide tipped. I have a couple of odd 10 inch rip blades that came with table saw and Bosch sliding miter, which I never use. All but the 6 1/2 are wide kerf. 

I have a variety of Olson and Bosch 93 inch band saw blades, various widths and from about 3 TPI to about 12 teeth per inch. And, a few Bosch 53 inch band saw blades for my 10 inch saw that are 3/16ths wide to about 3/8ths wide for making tight curved cuts.

Found a nice 1/4 inch kerf, 10 inch specialty blade on Amazon that I'd like to have, but it is about 90 bucks and just a bit hard to justify.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Can anyone answer Tom's question re Aluminum cutting?
> _"...is there a limit to how thick the aluminum can be?"_


1¼'' thick solid square stock w/ a -7° negative hook TCG..
-5° will work also...
wax lubricant...

mostly up to ½'' plate though..
and...

Aluminium Composite Materials (ACM)
ALPOLIC® Copper Composite Material (CCM)
Brass
Bronze
Copper
Lead


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> Can anyone answer Tom's question re Aluminum cutting?
> _"...is there a limit to how thick the aluminum can be?"_


To clarify a little - I always just used the 50 or 60T blade I had on the RAS for cutting lighter section aluminum strips and shapes (angles, etc.) but the heavier extrusions I was cutting - say 1/2" thick - seemed to cut easier and smoother with the non-ferrous blade on my little miter saw. I routinely cut 1/4" and 1/2" sheet/strip for various projects, and was wondering if the hollow ground blade would be OK for something that this. Academic interest only as I'm pretty happy with the non-ferrous blade, but might need to look at options for wider pieces since the cross-cut capacity on the miter saw is limited.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I have an Inifinty thin kerf combo blade on my new Jet TS :smile:. I like it but can't use the splitter with it. I also like Freud blades. On my skil saw I need a new one bad so I guess I will get a Freud. On my mitre saw I bought a better Dewalt blade than came on it and so far so good.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> 1¼'' thick solid square stock w/ a -7° negative hook TCG..
> -5° will work also...
> wax lubricant...
> 
> ...


Sorry, I was asking max thickness using the HSS hollow ground blade.

This is the blade I'm using Freud D0756N Diablo 7-1/4 56 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor, Diamond Knockout, and PermaShield Coating - Circular Saw Blades - Amazon.com it has a -6° hook angle, TGC. The largest piece I've cut so far was some 6061 1/2" x 3" flat. If I have to cut a panel, I've looked at the non-ferrous discs for my 4-1/2" angle grinder as the best option.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Me too, Tom, on the cut off discs. Sometimes it's just the easiest way.
My machinist neighbor has warned me about trying to use Al on a grinder (grinding rather than cutting). Apparently bad stuff can happen, not the least of which is the stone packing up with swarf.
I use my belt sander on it...so far there's been no issues.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I am partial to the the Marple 50 tooth for 38 dollars at Lowes . It's on my table saw and radial arm saw.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

tomp913 said:


> Sorry, I was asking max thickness using the HSS hollow ground blade.
> 
> This is the blade I'm using Freud D0756N Diablo 7-1/4 56 Tooth TCG Non-Ferrous Metal and Plastic Cutting Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor, Diamond Knockout, and PermaShield Coating - Circular Saw Blades - Amazon.com it has a -6° hook angle, TGC. The largest piece I've cut so far was some 6061 1/2" x 3" flat. If I have to cut a panel, I've looked at the non-ferrous discs for my 4-1/2" angle grinder as the best option.


you're asking about a HSS (High Speed Steel) blade and you show a carbide tooth...
which do we need to be dealing w/..
Here is HSS...
Cold Saw Blades M-2 HSS | The Blade Mfg. Co
your best bet is to call Freud and ask them what blade meets the need...

what is it exactly that you are trying to do...
this ½x3'' piece, did you cut this w/ your CS... 
I've never bothered/the abrasive cut off wheels for aluminum because of swarf load up...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Me too, Tom, on the cut off discs. Sometimes it's just the easiest way.
> My machinist neighbor has warned me about trying to use Al on a grinder (grinding rather than cutting). Apparently bad stuff can happen, not the least of which is the stone packing up with swarf.
> I use my belt sander on it...so far there's been no issues.


Dan, can you clarify your processes???


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> you're asking about a HSS (High Speed Steel) blade and you show a carbide tooth...
> which do we need to be dealing w/..
> Here is HSS...
> Cold Saw Blades M-2 HSS | The Blade Mfg. Co
> ...


Sorry, I guess not being clear. I use the Freud non-ferrous carbide tooth blade on my miter saw for cutting aluminum. Before selling my radial arm saw, I cut lighter sections using the 50/60T blade I had on it at the time.

My question on the max thickness that could be cut with the HSS hollow ground blade was based on DaninVan's original post "2) yes different blades for the SCMS ...80 tooth, and the TS same. I'm going back to using my old HSS hollow ground blade for cutting aluminum on the advice of you guys!"

I've stayed away from abrasive wheels/discs for cutting aluminum because of the problem with them loading up, but I've seen a couple of manufacturer's advertising them specifically for cutting non-ferrous metals and was considering picking up one to test. http://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/large/1AUC5_AS01.JPG


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

tomp913 said:


> Sorry, I guess not being clear. I use the Freud non-ferrous carbide tooth blade on my miter saw for cutting aluminum. Before selling my radial arm saw, I cut lighter sections using the 50/60T blade I had on it at the time.
> 
> My question on the max thickness that could be cut with the HSS hollow ground blade was based on DaninVan's original post "2) yes different blades for the SCMS ...80 tooth, and the TS same. I'm going back to using my old HSS hollow ground blade for cutting aluminum on the advice of you guys!"
> 
> I've stayed away from abrasive wheels/discs for cutting aluminum because of the problem with them loading up, but I've seen a couple of manufacturer's advertising them specifically for cutting non-ferrous metals and was considering picking up one to test. http://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/large/1AUC5_AS01.JPG


how thick do you need to cut???....

I use the same Freud blade (80T) on my TS also....
as for the HSS blade.. don't use one... can't comment...


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

To date, the thickest I've cut is 1/2", and I honestly can't see me cutting anything much thicker. I'm comfortable using the miter saw to cut aluminum as I can clamp it and feel pretty confident that there aren't going to be any surprises - I have sub-tables that bolt down through the saw table and then toggle clamps, etc. that hold the part being cut. 

I'm thinking that the HSS hollow ground blade would probably be limited to "sheet metal" thicknesses as I've used a HSS plywood blade to cut aluminum siding panels and found that it did a pretty good job as long as the panel wasn't allowed to bounce as you cut. I didn't start looking for options until I got into cutting thicker parts.

You say that you're using the 10" version of the blade I use on your table saw - would you be using this to cut thin sheet - around 1/16" for example - by feeding through the blade and guiding it against the fence?


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## rrrun (Jun 17, 2014)

I'm a simple guy. I get excellent results from the Woodworker II by Forrest Manufacturing. Thin kerf, 40 tooth.

I have 2 of them. When one gets dull from all of the hardwood I cut, I open the box of the other one, install it, and then use that box to send the dull one back to the factory for sharpening.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

I'm really partial to Tenryu blades for the TS, Skil worm drive and the CMS. Good carbide and a great selection.


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

Mike said:


> Questions pop up from time to time on which is a good choice in saw blades. Standard 1/8" kerf or thin kerf? How many teeth? Different blades for miter saws and table saws? Do you switch blades for different materials or use a general purpose blade? What size dado blade? Are variable or progressive teeth blades worth while?
> 
> What about circular saw blades? Small panel saw blades? Track saw blades? Specialty cutter blades? Table saw sanding disks? Blade stiffeners? What do you use?


Good to see you on the Forum Mike, I hope your health is still on the improve, saw blades? I use all of the above, there is no one blade that doe sit all, my Table Saw and Compound Makita Saw are both 300mm (12inch) so I do like the bigger blades, I just bought a 120tooth blade to get the finest cut I can, I am making a sled to cut the segments for ring constructions for segmented turning, a new hobby, boy that blade does a very neat cut, I bought my Vicmark VL175 just to do segmented items so this 120tooth blade will play a big role, I can't wait to have a go at these large urns and lidded amphora's, my new work shop is coming along and its like I have waited my whole life to be able to play with wood in my own way,, there just is no one blade that will do all the cuts, I will still buy new blades for specific jobs and yes, I keep them sharp. N


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## SteveMI (May 29, 2011)

neville9999 said:


> there is no one blade that does it all


+1

Using a rip blade for ripping and crosscut blade for crosscut really equals out the different blades. I was guilty in the beginning of using whatever grind was on the saw: ripping, crosscutting, plywood, melamine... After a little instruction from a journeyman about using the right grind for what I was doing, my quality of cuts went up dramatically. 

Mass produced blades from the big box stores can be the right grind and not give great quality. It may seem wrong, but sending a "new" lower cost blade for "professional" sharpening will give you much better quality to start with. A $35 blade with a $12 sharpening can perform the same as a $100+ blade for quite some (hobbyist) time. I have resharpened Rigid/Diablo blades that compare to my Woodworker II. I am planning to get a Tenryu triple chip thin kerf.

A negative rake is recommended for miter saw safety. My saw shipped new with a positive rake blade, so take nothing for granted.

Steve.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

tomp913 said:


> I started cutting heavier solid aluminum extrusions on my miter saw and got a little nervous about the "feel" so bought a Freud blade specifically for cutting non-ferrous material and have been very impressed so far. I've had pretty good luck cutting light sections - strip and light sheet - with the same 60T blade I used in my radial arm saw. Probably still have one of those hollow ground blades lying around somewhere, is there a limit to how thick the aluminum can be?


I cut a lot of aluminum extrusion in the sign industry. We used a 10" 80 tooth for non-ferrous on a radial arm saw. Lubricated the blade every cut or two with a stick of wax (like Stick mentioned). When cutting miters, watch out for the off-cut falling onto the blade. I used a chain of elastics attached to the right side of the table and a clip on the other end. Clip it to the off-gut side. When you cut through the elastic would slightly pull the off-cut away from the blade. This was important especially on small off-cuts because they want to tip onto the blade and kick back. We cut fairly complex extrusions up to around 3 or 4 inch. I never cut any sheet stock greater than about 3/8", so i can't help there.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Process? What Process? *



Stick486 said:


> Dan, can you clarify your processes???


1) draw line on Al flat stock
2) lay stock on raised object (upside down 5 gal pail) Place foot on stock
3) pick up Hitachi 5" grinder with El Cheapo cut off disc mounted, and cut off aforementioned marked piece.
4) sand off nasty bits with belt sander


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Process: Part 2*

Heh...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Wait...what?!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> 1) draw line on Al flat stock
> 2) lay stock on raised object (upside down 5 gal pail) Place foot on stock
> 3) pick up Hitachi 5" grinder with El Cheapo cut off disc mounted, and cut off aforementioned marked piece.
> 4) sand off nasty bits with belt sander


I asked for that...
nicely done Dan...
OH what could I have been thinking...

now where was I going w/ this...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

OH yeah.... Heh..
@tomp913...

what are you chopping up all this aluminum for...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Heh...


check...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Wait...what?!


but you won't have leftovers or enough for thirds...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I need Al powder... 
Just kidding, NSA, if you're listening!

I like working with Al for small bits and bobs.
An example was the art work hanging system I built for our local Arts Ctr. They needed a place to hang street banners while the paint's drying so I set up a 'clothes line' with aircraft cable stretched tight, and Al brackets 8' up. No chance _that's_ coming down in this lifetime!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Wait...what?!


as long as we don't mention Magnesium we should be good to go...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Wait...what?!


clearly the meaning of *''P''* escapes you...
reeducation is to begin immediately...


half of you beer stash is now forfeit for the down payment on the tuition... 
failure to comply and this is will go to collections...

CC: @schnewj


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

DaninVan said:


> Wait...what?!


Yes, pour out what you need... and then put half of it back.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> clearly the meaning of *''P''* escapes you...
> reeducation is to begin immediately...
> 
> 
> ...


Wait till he see what the daily interest is!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> as long as we don't mention Magnesium we should be good to go...


pardon me...
should've said...

ground up Volkswagen air cooled engine blocks...
now we're golden...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Clearly you led a sheltered teenage life, Stick...
https://homescience.wordpress.com/how-to-make-thermite/
Powdered Al is _fun_!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Clearly you led a sheltered teenage life, Stick...
> https://homescience.wordpress.com/how-to-make-thermite/
> Powdered Al is _fun_!


I doubt it....


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> OH yeah.... Heh..
> @tomp913...
> 
> what are you chopping up all this aluminum for...


Designing and making various bits of tooling and fixturing to help around the shop here. The extrusions go to a track saw that I use for breaking down sheets of plywood - using for clamp attachments to the track. Currently trying to work on a couple of ideas to attach a pivoting fence to the u/s of the track to use for cross-cutting stock, either at 90° (pretty simple) or adjustable (a little trickier). I have (limited) access to a mill, but trying to justify spending the $$$ for a bench top model of my own - but then that will lead to a small lathe and so on. I like to tinker with ideas like that, but never have the time.


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## pcorona (Aug 21, 2015)

TENRYU 60T...best blade I've ever used


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