# Fear of tools



## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

This is a good subject for my first post.

My favorite tool story is the sort of user who says, "No worries mate, I've been woodworking for 30 years and I still have all eight fingers."

Well I've been doing it for quite a bit less time and am still ponering my first router.

I've been doing jobs with a smaller tool which takes router bits with 1/4 shanks.
It came as a kit from the Menard's home store in US.

I've been able to use this gizmo with zip bits to do cut offs, chamfers and
free hand flush trims and rabbets.

This is all in the speaker building hobby. 

The topic of concern is making flush trim for oddly squate shaped
audio speakers. I've done this free hand on the surface. But the 
accurate procedure is to use the flush trim bit mounted in a table,
make the pattern and then do the additional steps to get the jig made.

This has been covered in a thread I started at diy audio forums called 
"flush mounting drivers, the whole story." The thread is made for both round and square speakers and also the process of making round driver holes.

When using the table setup, the original the piece is mounted to stock and the edge of the piece (metal flange) is used to get the pattern.

I've looked through the info here and see illustrations of the procedure.
There's also a source in a speaker magazine called audioXpress.

My question is on guiding the work to the mandrel/turning bit. I've seen here where hold downs are used to keep hands away from blades in close corner work.

What is the preferred method for this?


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

lon,

Let me see if I understand your question. Are you asking how do you guide the stock you are holding into a spinning bearing guided router bit? The answer is to use a starting pin. The starting pin (or Fulcrum pin) gives you something to hold the wood against as you pivot the stock into the cutter and on to the bearing. This helps prevent the stock from getting pulled out of your hands as the bit begins to cut, or worse yet, pull you hands toward the bit. 

Once the stock is riding on the bearing you can work away from the starting pin.

Hope this helps,

Doug


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I did reply to your post dated 13th June saying that this link to an earlier post of mine should give you a basic understanding of routing with template guides.

http://www.routerforums.com/40472-post1.html


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

What happened to my reply that mentioned the router book I found that shows these things?

I made a response to this yesterday. I also grabbed the pdf on pattern making but didn't print it to paper yet.

The book is: by Bill Hylton on Router Tables.


Word: I think my post from yesterday got dropped because there was a url in it.

Why can't those be included in text messages?


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

URL's can be included after so many posts are made, think it's about 10. Spam control measures. 


As for your post getting dropped, it's happened to me as well... actually think it's me hitting the back button before I hit the final post button. 

Brian


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## joeyschmoey (Jan 5, 2009)

i would agree!


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

Just a followup on Fear of tools.

Today I set up and executed a sample cut.

I was using a leveling jig suggested by Bill Hylton. It consists of a plexiglass base and
a couple pieces of oak trim screwed on to keep it flat. Having the router attached to this base gave me something to hang onto while I guided the cut. The cut is for a table mount which will accept the round base. I used an older tool to get that far.

Next I have to make some test tramel cuts for mounting an audio speaker.

What I found out was that my old vacuum cleaner with an attachment to the dust chute on the router wouldn't work. The hose is too stiff and seaparated from the chute nozzle.

I have to look at getting a small shop vac. What are the recommendations for an inexpensive one? Last time I was in Sears they had a little junior Craftsman shop vac on deal for $30 or something. Ideally I want to get the vac. high enough to the work surface so that I have free movement of the router. Making circle cuts uses a lot of motion and hose length.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

loninappleton it sounds like you just need a decent hose.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I think the idea of "fear of tools" is totally wrong. 

Fear in the most general terms; " implies anxiety and usually loss of courageousness", which really has no place in the workshop at all.

I think a Healthy Respect for the tools is better.


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

nickao65 said:


> I think the idea of "fear of tools" is totally wrong.
> 
> Fear in the most general terms; " implies anxiety and usually loss of courageousness", which really has no place in the workshop at all.
> 
> I think a Healthy Respect for the tools is better.


No doubt. I have used a variety of tools. I've also had some of them kick pretty hard.
That's why the best first step fro me was to use the sled gizmo to keep my hands out of there.

The router I have (which I bought pretty much on price only) has a number of good features: soft start, led lights to illuminate the work and a familiar bit 
attachment procedure. It's like the "Dad" of the roto tool and it's attachments I had been using for years.

Regards the hose, well the old Hoover Spirit is sort of limited ont he hose replacement end.


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