# Please help in finding the right bit



## Rogue_Runner (Mar 29, 2007)

I need to put the right profile on a raised panel (3 ea) that is 9/16" thick. The profile calls for 1/8 thickness at the edge, followed by an inside radius of 19/64, then an outside of 37/64, and finally an inside of 1/8. The distance from the edge to the end of the R 1/8 is 1 1/8".

I have not been able to match this up to a bit (the Freud 99-510 is the closest I have found). Your help and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

DWC


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Hi, DW. Sounds like you're trying to match the profile of a set of existing doors?

If so, you may have to slog through the various bit vendors' catalogs to find what was used originally.


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## Rogue_Runner (Mar 29, 2007)

Ralph,

Actually I'm working off of a set of plans for a Grandfather clock. Just trying to match up the bit to the trim on the front and side panels. It looks like the Frued 99-510 will work, I'm just looking for something more exact, or one that is less expensive but matches up to the requirement.

Thanks for getting back.

DWC


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi DWC

I will give it a shot, but I always get flack from Charles M. when I do.. 

The ones below are almost the same..but not having the 1/8" radius ..

Ogee Fillet Raised Panel Router Bits
#8689
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop.../raised_panel_router_bits1.html#rpogee_anchor

Vertical Raised Panel Router Bits
#8683
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/raised_panel_router_bits2.html



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http://www.amazon.com/Freud-99-510-...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1234902437&sr=1-1

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dwcurry said:


> Ralph,
> 
> Actually I'm working off of a set of plans for a Grandfather clock. Just trying to match up the bit to the trim on the front and side panels. It looks like the Frued 99-510 will work, I'm just looking for something more exact, or one that is less expensive but matches up to the requirement.
> 
> ...


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> ...but I always get flack from Charles M. when I do..


I'm crushed!!:'(


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## Rogue_Runner (Mar 29, 2007)

Bob, thanks for the information. It appears that either the horizontal or the vertical will work. When removing this much material (Red Oak) which would you recommend, the horizontal or the vertical?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI dwcurry


I recommend vertical bits,, they are so much safer to use, you can use them on both types of router tables..so you don't need a tank of a router to get the job done...

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Undercutter Bit/back cutter #8679 to go along with the vert.bits,when needed..

The 2 flute, carbide tipped undercutter bit, with totally enclosed ball bearing guide is designed to relieve the back of a raised panel with a 1/8" radius shaped cut. This will let the panel sit flush with reference to the doorframe. It also cuts the panel tongue to 1/4" thick when working with 3/4" stock and certain panel shapes.


http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/raised_panel_router_bits2.html

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dwcurry said:


> Bob, thanks for the information. It appears that either the horizontal or the vertical will work. When removing this much material (Red Oak) which would you recommend, the horizontal or the vertical?


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

DW, it seems to me that the only truly critical spec for the raised-panel bit is the resulting edge thickness of the panels (1/8"), so they will fit into the rails and stiles without further modification of the plans. The face contour, however, could be whatever appeals to you (or, the "customer" if the clock is being built for someone else).


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## Rogue_Runner (Mar 29, 2007)

Thank you everyone. 

I have placed the vertical bit on order.

DWC


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