# First Table Saw



## TheFlash (Apr 9, 2020)

Hey I have some home projects coming up and I am looking to get my first table saw. I do not have a lot of space so only looking at portable table saws right now. 

My budget is around $300 and I am trying to decide between theses 2 models. I can get both for $300 or less, the dewalt woulde be a little less with gift cards etc. Anyone have any experience with these models?


Skilsaw SPT70WT-22

Dewalt DW7485


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I would go with first choice the Dewalt, Skil has has gone downhill since its Glory Days. I have the Bosch, heard good things about the Dewalt, Know nothing about the Skil


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Adam, it looks like you're comparing a Skil 10" to a Dewalt 8 1/4" saw...what size is it you're interested in...? Or does it not matter...?


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

@Nickp Good catch Nick, I was thinking of the 7480,0r 745.


This one surprises me, I didn't know about it being a worm drive. that might be a game changer. I used worm drive Skilsaws on the job for over 50 years and they were the standard of the industry then. This sounds like an interesting saw and for the price it is a couple of hundred cheaper than my Bosch.. If you decide to get this one ,be sure to give us a review on it.
Herb


----------



## TheFlash (Apr 9, 2020)

Nickp said:


> Adam, it looks like you're comparing a Skil 10" to a Dewalt 8 1/4" saw...what size is it you're interested in...? Or does it not matter...?


Reason I'm looking at the 8 1/4" DeWalt vs 10" skilsaw is the price since I can get both for less than $300. 

My first project for the table saw is for ripping hardwood floor, then it's whatever projects come up.

The DeWalt seems well put together and rack and pinion adjustment, but the skilsaw seemed to have some nice additions such as Diablo blade, worm drive 10" etc.


----------



## TheFlash (Apr 9, 2020)

Herb Stoops said:


> @Nickp Good catch Nick, I was thinking of the 7480,0r 745.
> 
> 
> This one surprises me, I didn't know about it being a worm drive. that might be a game changer. I used worm drive Skilsaws on the job for over 50 years and they were the standard of the industry then. This sounds like an interesting saw and for the price it is a couple of hundred cheaper than my Bosch.. If you decide to get this one ,be sure to give us a review on it.
> Herb


Yeah price and availability have me looking at the dw7485 since the dw7480 doesn't really seem to be available.


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

@TheFlash In a more direct response to your question, I don't have either saw so I cannot comment...but...

The Skil's worm drive, 10" blade and higher RPM would tend to make me lean towards the Skil.

The Dewalt has a nice feature in the rack/pinion fence adjustment but that has never been a biggie for me (I bought the Bosch 4100)...

I read some of the reviews on both and there seems to be some issue with the fence...spend some time with the reviews so you go into it better informed.

Also, check the safety features on both, ie, riving knife specifically..does it adjust with blade height or is it fixed...?

The 1/2" dado capability of the Skil is also attractive but if you're going to cut grooves or dado's I would consider a saw that would allow you to go to 3/4"...

If you have the time to spend, gather some more funds and take a look at the slightly higher end portable saws...it might be worth it to wait and save a few more bucks for the 4100 or Dewalt...just a thought on budget versus value...

Side note...? I do like the worm drive and speed on the Skil...less likely to "bog down" on rips...

Good luck...let us know your progress...


----------



## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Adam I would also give some strong consideration to a used saw if they are available in your area. There are some great deals out there that may just be better then new for the money.


----------



## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

I have the DeWalt 7491 XE, the slightly bigger brother to the one you're looking at (and the Australian notation XE, not sure what it would be where you are).
It's a great saw, and a bit more power than the 7485 I suspect.

The fence is held by rack and pinion and very good, comes with a riving knife and vacuum port on top of safety unit (can't remember it's name right now, too tired).

I love it, it works well. I bought a Diablo finishing blade for it and have not looked back.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If they have the same power then the 8 1/4 will seeming have more power because of the smaller diameter blade. However, there is usally less variety in that smaller blade size than there is in 10 inch blades but that probably won't be a big issue.

The fence is the big deal. Look for reviews on Home Depot, Amazon, and any other site that has them. See if any one mentioned mentioned that as an issue. I bought a cheap saw from Sears when I was away from home and didn't have access to my big ones and the fence just about drove me crazy. First thing I had to do was take some sandpaper and glue it to the clamp on the far end to keep it from sliding around and every time I set it I had to measure at both ends of the blade to see if it was parallel. The rack and pinion fence on the DW should fix that issue once it's set properly.


----------



## ScottyDBQ (Jul 5, 2008)

I don't have either of these saws. I started out with a Skil 3400 portable saw which could use 10 inch blades. It was an okay saw but did not have 3/4 x 3/8 miter slots and the miter gauge was not very good. You can get around that by building a sled, but I noticed after a fair amount of use, the blade slot in the sled was wider than the teeth on the blade. This was probably due to the direct drive motor. I don't know what benefits a worm drive is, but I think it would be a far more accurate saw than the one I had. You might take a look at the throat plate on both saws to see how easy it would be to make a zero clearance insert which will give you cleaner cuts. I see the Skil saw gives you the ability to make a 25 inch wide cut. I know you are cramped for space, but you might think about what Steve says above and consider getting a used saw with a belt drive motor and putting it on a mobile base to shove it out of the way when needed. It's likely to be much more stable.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I'd search for a used saw with a 10 inch blade, 3/4 miter slots, and a really good fence. Take a little time to look it over if local, if it's beat to death, filled with sawdust, tweaked in some way, skip it. If you can find a Bosch 4100, it's a really good saw for your uses, but if you can use a little credit to get it, treat yourself to a new one in perfect condition. The table saw is the heart of all workshops, so spending a little more on it makes a lot of sense. What's that saying? Buy in haste, repent at leisure." BTW, today on Amazon, the 4100 is only $409! Not much of a stretch for what many Forum members consider the best entry level saw. The 4100 RT is only $380.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I see old Rockwell Beaver saws for sale fairly regular and they were a pretty good saw. A buddy wanted to upgrade from his to something bigger and more modern and I wanted to gift my old Craftsman to my inlaws so they would leave my Unisaw alone. He sold it to me for $100. They had a decent fence on them but I already had a good aftermarket one I switched it with. You can find them on Craig's list or marketplace web sites anywhere from about $100 to $300. They were fairly solid cast iron which has and will hold up much better than the aluminum ones like what you're looking at.


----------



## Ed3443 (Jul 7, 2013)

Adam I would agree with Chuck and Steve; I would look for a used table saw. There are great buys out there. These older table saws will be a great value and in my opinion a huge step up from the saws you are looking at. You can remove surface rust but watch out for pitting. Make sure the fence is solid--does not move. Check the arbor (blade is straight) and that all the pieces are there and work. You will be much happier in the end. Good luck!


----------



## TheFlash (Apr 9, 2020)

Well I bought one today based on your recommendations! I couldn't find anything used in my area so I picked up a Bosch 4100-10 for under $390 new!


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TheFlash said:


> Well I bought one today based on your recommendations! I couldn't find anything used in my area so I picked up a Bosch 4100-10 for under $390 new!


you will love that saw...


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

TheFlash said:


> Well I bought one today based on your recommendations! I couldn't find anything used in my area so I picked up a Bosch 4100-10 for under $390 new!



You will love that saw...it does the job...see my thread for initial observations... https://www.routerforums.com/tool-reviews/72089-bosch-4100-house-unboxing.html


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Happy you made that choice. That saw with the folding stand (no thanks on that stand) used to go for close to $600. A friend of mine had one that he built a special table for. The saw sits down into a U shaped table and then he micro adjusted the height of the saw to the exact height of the table. Gave him a larger surface to work on. He used it to rebuild his sailboat. Let us know how you like it. New tools are great fun, aren't they.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TheFlash said:


> Well I bought one today based on your recommendations! I couldn't find anything used in my area so I picked up a Bosch 4100-10 for under $390 new!


all those projects I've posted were done using a 4100...


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

You are not going to regret it, I have one for my 2nd go to saw in the shop. The blade that comes with it is not too shabby. I used it until it was getting dull and had it sharpened at the saw shop and it is even smoother cutting now. 
Depending on all the accessories that came on it, I bought them all, but the LH extension. and rear extension are the most useful. Infact I bought another rear extension and put it on my Craftsman.
Herb


----------



## TheFlash (Apr 9, 2020)

Hey everyone thanks for your help!

I just started to use it and did notice it needed to few add one to make it safer/easier to use. I already purchased and install the LH and rear extensions.

I am also looking for a different blade as I would like to cut some finer materials like some birch plywood and I have noticed some year out with the current blade.

I am thinking about picking up this CMT blade, would it be a good choice?

https://www.menards.com/main/tools/...ular-saw-blade/210-080-10/p-1444426657716.htm


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

An 80 tooth blade will cut very fine...just remember it will not do as well in ripping (edited). Adjust your feed rate accordingly and don't push too hard.

Also...tear out can be avoided with a zero clearance insert...more improvement over any blade change. A good plywood with a thin outer veneer will have the potential of tear out (on the bottom face) when cross cutting it.

Before you use the saw too much, wax the heck out of it with a furniture wax such as Johnson's...make sure you don't use any automotive paste waxes (silicone).


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

I believe Freud would be a better choice...
*https://www.freudtools.com/products/LU80R010 
https://www.freudtools.com/products/LU96R010*

CMT make very good blades but after experiencing issues/problems w/ their CS (separated tooth brazing) I tend to shy away from them...

note:
the CMT and Freud blade are both crosscut blades...

for ripping....
*https://www.freudtools.com/products/LM74M010*


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I almost always wind up using my Freud Industrial line, glue line blade. It makes a baby behind smooth cut and will crosscut or rip very nicely. I have an 80 tooth crosscut blade, but rarely use it anymore. That's my choice, anyhow.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> An 80 tooth blade will cut very fine...just remember it will not do as well in ripping (edited). Adjust your feed rate accordingly and don't push too hard.
> 
> Also...tear out can be avoided with a zero clearance insert...more improvement over any blade change. A good plywood with a thin outer veneer will have the potential of tear out (on the bottom face) when cross cutting it.
> 
> Before you use the saw too much, wax the heck out of it with a furniture wax such as Johnson's...make sure you don't use any automotive paste waxes (silicone).


agreed on the ZC and wax....

note...
the more you buff out the wax the harder it gets and the better it performs...
select a wax w/ Carnauba in it and you will move to the head of the class...

.


----------



## Bstrom (Jan 2, 2020)

DesertRatTom said:


> I almost always wind up using my Freud Industrial line, glue line blade. It makes a baby behind smooth cut and will crosscut or rip very nicely. I have an 80 tooth crosscut blade, but rarely use it anymore. That's my choice, anyhow.


Same here. It's a good choice and not really that expensive, so don't waste your breath saying it pricey (like I first did). Good tools ARE pricey!


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

TheFlash said:


> Hey everyone thanks for your help!
> 
> I just started to use it and did notice it needed to few add one to make it safer/easier to use. I already purchased and install the LH and rear extensions.
> 
> ...


One of the problems buying saw blades is that most of the manufacturers have several different lines and qualities. I think CMT has 5. Construction grade with any of them is near the bottom. CMT also has Industrial (usually everyone's top of the line blades) and ITK and ITK plus. I think there is one more and maybe it's not named. Freud has a Chinese made line named Avanti (avoid them) Diablo (decent quality) and Industrial grade. Amana has a variety and I don't know how to rate them.

A melamine blade will do a nice job on plywood. More teeth and thicker teeth require more power. Each tooth has friction in a cut. The more teeth also the smaller the gullets in between them and the gullets carry the sawdust away. Feed too fast and you can over heat a blade and ruin it (VOE speaking there, I ruined a 60 tooth years ago, it got so hot it warped). You always want the good side up on a table saw. It will have the smoothest finish to it. Adding a strip of masking tape where the cut will go can help too, especially with melamine. Plus the zc insert as mentioned.


----------



## anndel (Aug 18, 2019)

I have both the DeWalt DWE7491RS and the DW745. Either 745 or 7485 is highly recommended.


----------



## Ed3443 (Jul 7, 2013)

Really like Forrest Blades


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Premium blades generally have thicker tips so you can resharpen them many times. Gives a lot more lifetime and for many of us older guys, the industrial grade blades will surely outlast us. :wink:

On Amazon, the blade is $61. Not bad. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Industrial-Ripping-Blade-LM74R010/dp/B00006XMTV

I've also added a pix of a zero clearance insert. Use the supplied insert, usually steel, to mark the outline on half inch ply (preferably baltic birch. Drill the finger hole. Lower the blade all the way down, then put the blank insert in place and move the fence over it to hold it down. Make sure the fence doesn't cover where the blade is going to be. Raise the saw blade til it cuts the slot.

Always a good idea to assume your blade is not perfectly perpendicular to the table top. Get a Wixey digital angle finder (pix) and zero it on the table, then raise the blade to full height, put the Wixey on the blade and adjust until it says 90. This is important to do pretty much with every time you use the saw, especially if you are moving the saw for storage. A very slight tilt can make it impossible to assemble and glue up a workpiece. 

Look on Youtube for videos on setting up a table saw and take care adjusting the fence so it is _almost _perfectly parallel to the blade and miter slot. You want the fence to flare away from the blade by about 4 thousandths of an inch at the far end. That will keep your work pieces from binding and kicking back at you at 100mph. How do I know that?

Make yourself some push blocks and push sticks. 2x4s make good push blocks, but they will soon be shredded on the bottom, but the price is right. Push sticks are usually no more than half an inch thick. Always use one or the other. My habit is to never allow my hands to get less than 4-6 inches from the blade and if I do, I break out in a cold sweat.

Safety stuff. Always unplug the saw any time you change blades. Never wear long sleeve shirts or jacket when you work with the table saw, if it catches on the blade, it will instantaly perform surgery on your arm. Always stand to the left side of the blade, never in line with it. If you are cutting a narrow piece, do not "trap" it between the blade and fence. The safety blade guard that comes with the saw is your friend, so use it and prevent the saw from shooting stuff at you. Wear protective eye wear and hearing protection, and I never cut anything without a dust mask on. period. 

The best safety device of all time has to be the Gripper, the yellow push block below, which basic model goes for $60. It allows you to push your workpiece forward, down and toward the fence with one hand and keeps you hand well clear of the blade. And it doesn't get chewed up like the 2x4 shop made blocks.

Sawdust collection is a whole other thing. I talk about it in the attached pdf of the 18 things that helped me accelerate my learning curve. It's long, but has pictures, and it may save you some of the expensive mistakes and poor purchases I made.


----------



## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

I second the call for the Grrripper. I bought one when I bought my table saw, haven't looked back. I got the slightly bigger kit as it comes with a few more attachments, including a plate to join two units together.
One day I might splash out on a second one and try this out if I'm doing long stock cutting.


----------



## Bstrom (Jan 2, 2020)

And I’ll add a third to that call on the Grrriper - I bought a knockoff that appears to be made identically. Hugely important tool.


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I use the FastCap Zero Clearance tape instead of making zero clearance inserts for my 4100. They work great.
Herb

https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Zero...587877701&sprefix=Fastcap+zero,aps,221&sr=8-1


----------



## Ed3443 (Jul 7, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> I use the FastCap Zero Clearance tape instead of making zero clearance inserts for my 4100. They work great.
> Herb
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Zero...587877701&sprefix=Fastcap+zero,aps,221&sr=8-1


What a great idea for miter saws. Thanks Herb.


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Ed3443 said:


> What a great idea for miter saws. Thanks Herb.


They work for Table Saws too. If you have a ZC insert that has a ragged slot, it will restore it to new again. I run it back to the back edge of the saw table to keep the miter gauge from catching on it, and make a cut at the forward and rear ends of the insert so the insert can be removed.
Herb


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> I use the FastCap Zero Clearance tape instead of making zero clearance inserts for my 4100. They work great.
> Herb
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Zero...587877701&sprefix=Fastcap+zero,aps,221&sr=8-1


I bought some and keep forgetting to put it on my sliding miter saw. Thanks for the reminder. I'll do that today.


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> I use the FastCap Zero Clearance tape instead of making zero clearance inserts for my 4100. They work great.
> Herb
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Zero...587877701&sprefix=Fastcap+zero,aps,221&sr=8-1



Now that's a great idea...!

Does the edge of the tape catch the workpiece at all...?


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

It might a little if you slide it over. No biggy tho.
Herb


----------



## Atoolman50 (Feb 22, 2021)

Have a Bosch GTS1031 portable table saw that I bought 2 years ago, still runs like a champ. Also, have a case for the saw to protect the chain.


----------



## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum @Satanic


----------



## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Craigslist


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

This is the industrial Freud brand glue line blade. Full Kerf, Great for both ripping and crosscut.


----------

