# Raised Panel Bit - which type



## nancysbob (May 8, 2009)

I'm working on a built-in cabinet installation for my step-daughter's living room. Right now, I'm driving her crazy trying to decide on a profile for the raised panel doors. Is there any reason to do the undercut style? Seems to me that only adds more weight. 

Thanks from both of us for the help.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

undercut style removes weight by removing more stock..many want to have the panels flush with the other door parts..

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nancysbob said:


> I'm working on a built-in cabinet installation for my step-daughter's living room. Right now, I'm driving her crazy trying to decide on a profile for the raised panel doors. Is there any reason to do the undercut style? Seems to me that only adds more weight.
> 
> Thanks from both of us for the help.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

If you don't use an undercut bit the panel will stand proud of the frame. Not a bad thing,it's how I always go.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Or, you can make the panel thinner with no backcut and still have it flush on the outside. It does not have to stick out just because of no backcut.. just needs to have a 9/16 to 5/8 panel instead of 3/4!


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## nancysbob (May 8, 2009)

Thanks for the comments. I've been working on making the cabinets fit precisely. Her house is old (pre-1900) with nothing square, straight, level or plumb, so it's "very interesting". Beautiful old baseboard, though. And of course, very hard to trim.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bob, Sommerfelds sells two sets of rail and stile bits that greatly reduce tear out. This is a very nice set to work with.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

nancysbob said:


> Thanks for the comments. I've been working on making the cabinets fit precisely. Her house is old (pre-1900) with nothing square, straight, level or plumb, so it's "very interesting". Beautiful old baseboard, though. And of course, very hard to trim.


If adding, sometimes using an architectural trim between as a transition piece will help you bring it together and plum.... Or take down the end cabinet to "make" a transition.

"Pre-1900"? That comment perked my interest... as I do restoration carpentry.

So are you keeping trim and cabinetry in parts and matching. Complementing or contrasting?

If matching... I draw out the profile crosss-sections, then look at my tooling to see which bits match or come close (includes borrowed tooling). If I don't have and need to buy a bit... I then use that profile and see which brands might have that profile. If I come up blank, then I look at if It is cost-worthy to either create that profile by compound cuts or to have a custom profile ground... or to transition to a profile I have or might be available commercially.


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## nancysbob (May 8, 2009)

Thanks for the comments.

The house is small, likely built for working German immigrant family. Not fancy, just nicely done for the time. I think my wife described the interior as "eclectic" once, meaning it now has a little of everything. A prime example is the baseboard. I finally figured out which of several 8" - 9" tall sections is the original. Several sections have been replaced throughout the house, with something similar, but definitely different. Same thing holds true around windows and doorways. Originals were created with a shaper or moulding machine - definitely not in my budget!

Fortunately, my sister-in-law is an interior designer and tries to keep both of us straight. In the case of the raised panel design, she essentially said copy the profiles in our living room, which was done by a really good commercial shop. I finally found a combination of bits that does that. I've already bought the pricey one, and the second which will add a bit of detail is on order.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

nancysbob said:


> Thanks for the comments.
> 
> The house is small, likely built for working German immigrant family. Not fancy, just nicely done for the time. I think my wife described the interior as "eclectic" once, meaning it now has a little of everything. A prime example is the baseboard. I finally figured out which of several 8" - 9" tall sections is the original. Several sections have been replaced throughout the house, with something similar, but definitely different. Same thing holds true around windows and doorways. Originals were created with a shaper or moulding machine - definitely not in my budget!
> 
> Fortunately, my sister-in-law is an interior designer and tries to keep both of us straight. In the case of the raised panel design, she essentially said copy the profiles in our living room, which was done by a really good commercial shop. I finally found a combination of bits that does that. I've already bought the pricey one, and the second which will add a bit of detail is on order.


Something like that in that era... for that class of housing-- (guess without seeing based on what I've done)

The bedrooms and bathroom were the plainest. Although bathroom more ornate than the bedrooms. Not much time spent in either.

The kitchen and pantry was plain and utilitary, although most of the time "was" spent there.

Most of the trim and ornaments were in the living room and if a separate area, the dining area... both for appearance to guests.

Early 1900's, the tall baseboard was for function. Plaster and lath walls and most of the wiring was behind that tall trim... which if the house was updated, hopefully has been replaced.

Past compared to today- where the selling point on a house is now on the "wife"... That is a shift in society that has filtered down to the housing industry. Where now the selling point and a part of the appraisal price is based on the kitchen and bathroom.

So a lot of remodels to those era homes to add value before a sale or a refinance... were to update, upgrade or just plain beautify (etc.) the kitchens and bathrooms...

Yes. Sounds like you're on the right track.


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