# Bosch 1617 collet problems



## rmanrique (Feb 21, 2011)

My Bosch 1617 evs is faily new (less than 40 hours use), and I'm having problem with the bit slipping down and ruining the workpiece. I have been trying to rout dovetails in maple using a Jet jig. The first set of dovetails worked perfectly (with some cleanup), but then the bit started slipping down. I've tried cleaning the collet following instructions in an article from Fine Woodworking, and then bought a new collet, with the same results after just a few passes. Straight bits seem to work fine (routing mortices), but the dovetail bits slip down after just a few passes.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Many members have that router although I am not one of them. Are you bottoming the bit into the router when you chuck them? If you are, leave a small gap under it. A hot router bit stretches, which can loosen the grip the collet has on it.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Richard, I own a couple of 1617's and have never had a problem with them. First thing to check is the diameter of the dovetail bit. Since other bits work fine my guess is you have an undersized bit. This is not common but it does happen. Measure the bit with a micrometer and compare it to your other bits. What brand of dovetail bit are you using?


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I own a 1617 and have had this happen with one bit. I believe it was the bit being very slightly undersized and the nature of the bit is to want to pull up. (Spiral bit) I discovered (after having a bit snap) that I was taking too deep of cuts with that bit. I ended up making smaller cuts with it, which solved the problems I was having with that bit.

I think in your case though, the bit shank is undersized. I would try a different bit.


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## Dal300 (Jul 14, 2011)

Something I was taught many years ago....

Go to town and by an assorted pile of cheap 1/4 and 1/2" o rings.

Slip the o-ring over the shank all the way up to the flange. That way you can't push the bit into the collet up onto the curved flange.


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## 4yanks (Oct 8, 2011)

I have owned a 1617evs for several years and have not had the same experience. I would agree with others who have suggested that the bit is either bottomed out prior to tightening or poor quality control by the bit manufacturer.


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## rmanrique (Feb 21, 2011)

I've was using a CMT high price bit. 
I've bought a new collet and am gowing to try again. 
Have ordered collet brushes from Woodhaven, and will try using Scotch Brite pad on the router bit shaft before using. Thanks for the info as to bit expansion resulting from heat - everyone says to leave 1/8 above bottom but no one has ever mentioned why - thanks again.


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## rmanrique (Feb 21, 2011)

rmanrique said:


> I've was using a CMT high price bit.
> I've bought a new collet and am going to try again.
> Have ordered collet brushes from Woodhaven, and will try using Scotch Brite pad on the router bit shaft before using. Thanks for the info as to bit expansion resulting from heat - everyone says to leave 1/8 above bottom but no one has ever mentioned why - thanks again.


Also, I may have damaged the collet by overtightening. Can anyone comment on this? I read this on several sites, but it's a normal response when bits start slipping and you're ruining good wood. Should squeezing the two wrenches together with one hand be enough - as suggested on one site that the resulting coefficient of friction between the collet and bit will be enough to keep the bit in place. I've read of Porter Cable owners complain of slipping bits and saying that you have to have Schwartzenegger arms to tighten them.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Richard, when the collet nut is tightened it forces the collet into the shaft which causes it to tighten on the bit. This also causes the bit to move backward into the shaft. If the bit is bottomed out and can't move back the collet nut gets tight but the bit is not gripped properly by the collet. A bit bottomed out can also transfer the heat build up directly to the motor shaft. The 1617 manual requires that the bit be inserted into the collet 3/4"; deeper is better since it helps reduce vibration and deflection. You can insert a 1/8" diameter cord O ring into the shaft, it should be snug enough that it wont fall out. This will allow you to fully insert a bit to the O ring. The O ring will compress when the collet nut is tightened allowing the collet to properly secure the bit.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

One hand pressure is not enough to secure the bit. You don't have to be Godzilla, but the collet nut needs to be tight. I am sure your collet is fine since you have no problems with other bits.


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## giltic (Sep 27, 2010)

Your router has a collet, which is split from both sides alternately. When you tighten the nut the collet will compress evenly along the length of the bit. The cuts in the collet are wide enough so the bit must be seriously undersized so the collet can't grab it.I would say there could be some dirt in the cuts preventing the collet to compress, if the bit is undersized. Do you have a digital calliper to measure the diameter of the bit?


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## mart44 (Jul 6, 2020)

I seem to have the opposite problem with my Bosch 1617EVS. After I use it, I cannot remove the bit. I back the bit off of the nut by 1/8" before I tighten the nut, but after working the wood, the shaft has slipped down tight against the nut and is immovable. Two trips to a machine shop for removal at a cost of two $30 bits. I am not using the one hand squeeze method of tightening the nut. Putting more torque on it than that....Any ideas?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Welcome to the forum.

I can't imagine what is happening. I know that they sell little rubber balls to drop in before you put the bit in the collet to keep from bottoming out the bit in the collet, But I have never heard of too tight to release the collet.
Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Hello N/A and welcome to the forums...
We're happy you found us...

When you get this apart, get yourself a new collet... Clean the bit shanks and inspect for damage and scores...
you more than likely have damaged the existing one along the way...
and *STOP* pushing the bit so far in...
Better router bits have depth setting marks on the shanks...

For tapping, use wood, brass hammer, wood mallet or a facing/dead blow hammer...
*NO STEEL TOOLS ALLOWED!!!...*

Heat will often break the bond that is holding them...
A soldering iron works very very well for this...
It'll be a more concentrated heat and not damaging anything like the router or it's bearings...
When you apply the heat stand the router up so your bit is pointing up... no sense in cooking the bearing or other vitals... 
In the same vein you could go w/ cold... pack the bit/collet in ice for a while... 
This time w/ the bit pointing down...
No sense in putting or getting water into the motor...

Hold the router with the loosened collet nut resting on the workbench or the edge of a board and tap/rap the nut (not the bit and not the bit's shaft) a few times or more...
Still not working???
Do the same to the collet this time, tapping on collet's shoulder only w/ the nut off... 
*Be mindful* of the router shaft's threads... You damage them and it's off to the store for a new router... Repairing the threads usually does not work out well...

If all of the above fails – a stud or bearing puller is an *extreme last resort* and you can bet your last dollar you will need a new collet and router bit at a minimum... And we are not going to mention that you stand a most excellent chance of permanently/fatally tearing up the router...

*Where there's a problem, there's a prevention*​
*Problem: 
Giving up when the nut tightens up after initially loosening
Prevention:*
Although it might sound funny if you're NOT familiar with self-releasing collets... Many experts say they've helped countless customers who simply needed to continue loosening their collets after feeling them initially loosen. Self-releasing collets—usually identifiable by a snap ring or other device that holds the collet and nut together—have two "break" points: the initial one, and then in about two or three turns later another ''break'' that released the bit...

*Problem: Dirty collet
Prevention: *
Blow out the collet regularly with a blast of compressed air. If needed, clean the collet and threads with a soft brush and mineral spirits. (For a self-releasing collet, you might have to remove the snap ring to disassemble it.)

*Problem: Dirty bit shanks*
*Prevention:* 
Wipe router bit shanks with a cloth and mineral spirits; lightly polish with ultra fine grit polishing compound to remove rust or tough grime. Clean thoroughly...

*Problem: Over-tightened nut*
*Prevention:* 
You don't need to tighten a collet nut as much as you would bolts while assembling a machine, such as a tablesaw. Instead, tighten the nut only about one-eighth of a turn after it snugs up.

*Problem: Bottomed-out bit
Prevention:* 
When installing a bit in the collet, insert the bit until the end of the shank is approximately 1/8~1/2'' past the end of the collet and well clear of the receiver's bottom...
It helps to mark your bit shanks w/ this depth setting if the mark isn't already there..

*Problem: Leaving bits in a router too long*
*Prevention:* 
If you're not using a bit and it's been in the collet more than a few days, remove it from your router. Humidity can cause rust even inside a collet, and that can seize a bit shank to the collet.....


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Welcome to the forum.
> 
> I can't imagine what is happening. I know that they sell little rubber balls to drop in before you put the bit in the collet to keep from bottoming out the bit in the collet, But I have never heard of too tight to release the collet.
> Herb


those balls..
just another solution looking for a problem...

too tight...
the collet is press fitted to the bit and or shank...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@mart44...

who made your bit and where was it made???...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I was having the same problem so I switched to a Musclechuck. They grip differently that a collet so you'll never get a bit stuck in one of them. They are also way easier to use and grip the bit 4x tighter than a standard collet. https://www.musclechuck.com/shop/ Follow the instruction videos carefully. I caused too much run out by over tightening the nut when I installed it but it was fine once I backed it off a little. 

I was always able to get the bit out of my standard collet without damaging it or the collet by tapping on the shank and rotating it. Once or twice it took about 10 minutes of doing that but it always came loose.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> those balls..
> just another solution looking for a problem...
> 
> too tight...
> the collet is press fitted to the bit and or shank...


Must be a Bosch "Precision made" problem, my Harbor Freight never had any problems like that.
Just saying, 
Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Must be a Bosch "Precision made" problem, my Harbor Freight never had any problems like that.
> Just saying,
> Herb


most likely...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Use a grommet instead of a space ball. Don't have to press the bit in, just let itsit on top of the grommet. Grommets are stiffer and don't compress easily. Here is a picture of how a collet works. The precision is in thousandths, so as Stick suggested, after messing with it, you should just get a new one. I always keep a couple of collets on hand just in case. You can order them on Amazon or direct from Bosch.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

DesertRatTom said:


> Use a grommet instead of a space ball. Don't have to press the bit in, just let itsit on top of the grommet. Grommets are stiffer and don't compress easily. Here is a picture of how a collet works. The precision is in thousandths, so as Stick suggested, after messing with it, you should just get a new one. I always keep a couple of collets on hand just in case. You can order them on Amazon or direct from Bosch.


That doesn't help with some of those type collets. Getting the bit stuck in mine had nothing to do with bottoming it out. I wasn't anywhere close to bottoming mine out. Mine just kept getting the bit stuck and it didn't matter if I eased up tightening it either. It also didn't want to stay snapped into the collet nut which may have been part of the problem. From some research I've done I think those collets are made by a company called Accurate Electric. There are about 25-30 router models that use them in at least 3 different brands.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

@DesertRatTom, where is the grommet in the picture?
Herb


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> That doesn't help with some of those type collets. Getting the bit stuck in mine had nothing to do with bottoming it out. I wasn't anywhere close to bottoming mine out. Mine just kept getting the bit stuck and it didn't matter if I eased up tightening it either. It also didn't want to stay snapped into the collet nut which may have been part of the problem. From some research I've done I think those collets are made by a company called Accurate Electric. There are about 25-30 router models that use them in at least 3 different brands.


Chuck, are you sure it isn't Superior Electric?
https://www.superiorelectric.us/categories/router-collets

HErb


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Herb Stoops said:


> Chuck, are you sure it isn't Superior Electric?
> https://www.superiorelectric.us/categories/router-collets
> 
> HErb


I think I saw it on an ebay listing and I'm pretty sure that it said Accurate but when I went to their site I couldn't find any collets listed . You appear to have it right. Those are the correct part numbers for 2 of my Hitachis and my son's 1617 interchanges with them.


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