# Table Saw Mitre Jig



## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

For some time I have been trying to figure a jig I can use in tandem with my table saw to cut multiple pieces all the same length. Maybe I am getting lazy, but the idea of scribing lines and cutting each individually leaves a lot to be desired especially when making boxes when accuracy is extremely important.So, thats the plot, any ideas would be appreciated......Regards............AL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*table sled for mitre cuts*



Al Robins said:


> For some time I have been trying to figure a jig I can use in tandem with my table saw to cut multiple pieces all the same length. Maybe I am getting lazy, but the idea of scribing lines and cutting each individually leaves a lot to be desired especially when making boxes when accuracy is extremely important.So, thats the plot, any ideas would be appreciated......Regards............AL



Hi Al,


check out this thread..http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/22000-table-sled-mitre-cuts.html#post188116


you may get some ideas


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

It's not very original but what's worked for me when I was making a number of dovetailed drawers was to carefully align my Biesemeyer and its scale for accuracy. Then located a piece of 1" MDF about 3" to 4" square and clamp it to the fence well in front of the blade as a stop for my miter gauge. Any thickness works but 1" stock makes the fence setting trivial.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

James and Jim....Thanks for your time....I probably didnt explain myself too well....I didnt mean at 45 degrees, but at 90 degrees to the blade....I have the usual mitre guage that holds the stock at 90 degrees .What Jim says is part of the deal. I would like to instal this permanently with a ruler/tape attatched to the guage for future reference. As Harry says... A photo is worth a thousand words....AL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Al Robins said:


> James and Jim....Thanks for your time....I probably didnt explain myself too well....I didnt mean at 45 degrees, but at 90 degrees to the blade....I have the usual mitre guage that holds the stock at 90 degrees .What Jim says is part of the deal. I would like to instal this permanently with a ruler/tape attatched to the guage for future reference. As Harry says... A photo is worth a thousand words....AL


Not sure what you mean, Al.

My jig hold the workpiece flat on the table, square to the length of the blade and cuts a 45 degree mitre in the end.

In the photos I have the workpiece standing up which may have misled you....


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Al Robins said:


> James and Jim....Thanks for your time....I probably didnt explain myself too well....I didnt mean at 45 degrees, but at 90 degrees to the blade....I have the usual mitre guage that holds the stock at 90 degrees .What Jim says is part of the deal. I would like to instal this permanently with a ruler/tape attatched to the guage for future reference. As Harry says... A photo is worth a thousand words....AL


Al, if you were to replace the piece of wood on the mitre gauge with one of a suitable length onto which you could make an adjustable stop, you would then be able to use it for docking, each piece being identical. It would be essential that there be no play between the mitre gauge and table, a simple method to remove play is to tap a few indents with a centre punch, the metal that is pressed out solves such a problem. The stop can be as simple or complex as you wish. These shots show the one that I made around 20 years ago for my radial arm saw, which Al., you should be using for docking seeing you have one!


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

Hey Harry:

In that first Picture, a mistake???? Come on thats a lightning hole to make it not weigh so much. Right? :lol:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Nice job and you are so right the RAS is the easy way, here's a set I made for my RAS not as neat as yours but they work every time..they just slip in a tee slot in the wood RAS fence, once set the boards all come out to the right size..copy after copy.. 


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harrysin said:


> Al, if you were to replace the piece of wood on the mitre gauge with one of a suitable length onto which you could make an adjustable stop, you would then be able to use it for docking, each piece being identical. It would be essential that there be no play between the mitre gauge and table, a simple method to remove play is to tap a few indents with a centre punch, the metal that is pressed out solves such a problem. The stop can be as simple or complex as you wish. These shots show the one that I made around 20 years ago for my radial arm saw, which Al., you should be using for docking seeing you have one!


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Harry and BJ....thats exactly what I want....I can fit that over the edge of the NEW fence ...glue/screw a tape to the top edge and all is good!.....and Yes.James..I understand what you were on about....Thanks for all the replies, Regards.......AL


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I personally wouldn't go to the trouble of attaching a tape measure. By marking the first piece with a sharp pencil and setting the blade on the line ensures perfect accuracy Al.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Nice job and you are so right the RAS is the easy way, here's a set I made for my RAS not as neat as yours but they work every time..they just slip in a tee slot in the wood RAS fence, once set the boards all come out to the right size..copy after copy..
> 
> ...


Our two approaches to the same problem Bob reminds me of something that I've said many times over the years, get ten psychiatrists to examine one patient and I reckon that there would be ten different diagnosis.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jd99 said:


> Hey Harry:
> 
> In that first Picture, a mistake???? Come on thats a lightning hole to make it not weigh so much. Right? :lol:


Alas Danny, I cannot tell a lie, I believe in showing my mistakes so that newcomers to woodworking don't get the idea that experienced members never make mistakes, at least, this one does, many of them can be turned into features, like holes to reduce the weight!


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Yes Harry.....no need for a tape if you scribe and measure and tighten the screw....good one...........AL


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I sure you have a setup like below and many have this same type of setup for face frames,picture frames,molding,etc. for just about anything that must be cut true and 4 parts .
It makes it easy to get all the parts the same, mark one part and set it and all the parts will come out just the same way and very true.. 

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harrysin said:


> I personally wouldn't go to the trouble of attaching a tape measure. By marking the first piece with a sharp pencil and setting the blade on the line ensures perfect accuracy Al.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

*Now* I see what you mean.. Very innovative, guys!


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Jim, I sympathise with you....some times it takes a while, but at the end of the day us mere mortals usually understand....."it just takes time"


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

BJ, Have you routed a "T" in the workpiece behind the adjusting screws and used "T" nuts and screws to allow the adjustment to move side ways?
Hope you can understand my query......Regards........AL


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Al

The T-slot is in the RAS fence, I knew I should have taken a shot of it but it's just a tee slot down the edge of the fence stock...the tee slots bolts just side up and down the slot and locked in place , on both sides of the blade path.. 

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Al Robins said:


> BJ, Have you routed a "T" in the workpiece behind the adjusting screws and used "T" nuts and screws to allow the adjustment to move side ways?
> Hope you can understand my query......Regards........AL


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Thanks BJ...I am going to attack over the weekend and will keep you posted, Regards.....AL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*test*

Hi Al,

see if this works...


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

James....Thank you for the download, thats another way around the problem. I am nearly finished my attempt, I intend to put it through its paces this arvo. I will post photo and review? later today....in the meantime, thanks again and enjoy your weekend............AL


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Well, heres my effort for a table saw mitre stop. All went well, using a small key way to stabalize the deal....no worries....unfortunately, birds brain forgot about the handle of the mitre and the triangular plastic knob! Back to the drawing board and one of BJ's knobs was used to allow the slide to work.
The jury is still out regarding the operation. I tried a few cuts of the same length and it seemed to work ok....only time will tell, and yes Harry, I'm still toying with the tape idea on the top.....we shall see.
Bottom line....I still like the download of James....it is extremely functional and could lead to bigger and better things. I have peined(sp) the metal slide in several places, but still have some movement, but not much. The download of James may stop all this movement.......Regards.....AL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

That's still a good result, Al.

However you must make sure you line up the mitre gauge to the blade each time you attach the jig to the mitre gauge.

BTW, what make of table saw do you have?


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

The saw is a carba tec mj2325 and apart from the fence is a good bit of kit. I have had to sort the fence out on several occasions as the measurements differ from one edge to the other. Its a pain having to go from one side to the other ensuring the fence is "parrallell" to the blade. 
I leave the guage attached to the mitre once its squared James. Touch wood I havent had any problems to date.............AL


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

It's looking good Al. there is no problem if the fence is not perfectly parallel to the blade, so long as the out-feed is the wider. in fact it's quite normal to set the out-feed slightly wider than the in-feed and so ensure that there can be no jamming.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Thanks Harry....the sled that James posted has possibilities....mitre cuts at 45 degrees....taper jig....all rolled up in one?.........AL


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