# Are 1/4" routers ok?



## Learningtorpute (May 28, 2016)

I read a place online that claimed if I bought a 1/4 collet router that I'd regret it. Are they that bad? Thanks. Cutting into hard maple for a cutting board if it matters.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Short shallow runs? No problem.
Aggressive deep cuts: Unacceptable.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

also depends on the bit profile and diameter


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Agree with Pat. Sooner or later you will want 1/4 inch and 1/2 shank routers. They are somewhat like clamps. You can't have too many.


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## Learningtorpute (May 28, 2016)

What should I buy that can do a joint for a flat edge in 1/4" bit that won't cost a fortune, bit and router?


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

I've used 1/4" shank bits quite a bit and not had any problems. BUT, as Pat and Richard said, slow and easy. Shallow cuts will take a bit longer, but if you go too aggressive or deep you risk bending, or even breaking, the shank due to it's small size. It also limits the diameter of bit you can safely use. 

You mentioned a cutting board. I'm assuming you will be doing an edge profile on it, maybe even a groove around the outside to catch the grease from the meat? A 1/4" shank router bit should be able to do that job without any problems.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

For any serious project I wind up with half inch bits. I have a couple of door sets from Sommerfeld that have half inch shanks that are matched so once you position the first bit in the set, you can just drop in the rest without worrying about height, called matched sets. I have three routers with half inch collets, although they each could take a 1/4 inch shank with an adapter. 

My quarter inch router is a Bosch Colt, which is a wonderful little router for trimming, installing hinges, doing a quick roundover of 1/4 to 3/8ths max. It is also good for making signs and other freehand projects where control is more important than power. Any bit more than about an inch or so width cutting edge should have a half inch shank. 

The good news is that if you get a Bosch 1617, you can do everything a quarter inch model will do. It will cost you a little more to get the EVSPK kit with fixed and plunge base, but you will spend close to that amount for a fully equipped Colt, Makita or Dewalt-quarter inch, especially if you buy it piece by piece. The Bosch also works in a table using its fixed base. A 1/4 router can't do that.

Hope this is helpful.


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## Learningtorpute (May 28, 2016)

DesertRatTom said:


> For any serious project I wind up with half inch bits. I have a couple of door sets from Sommerfeld that have half inch shanks that are matched so once you position the first bit in the set, you can just drop in the rest without worrying about height, called matched sets. I have three routers with half inch collets, although they each could take a 1/4 inch shank with an adapter.
> 
> My quarter inch router is a Bosch Colt, which is a wonderful little router for trimming, installing hinges, doing a quick roundover of 1/4 to 3/8ths max. It is also good for making signs and other freehand projects where control is more important than power. Any bit more than about an inch or so width cutting edge should have a half inch shank.
> 
> ...


A 1/4" can't use a table?


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

A router with a 1/4 inch collet is not inherently bad. Some can be used in tables and there are growing numbers of router tables designed for trim routers such as the Bosch Colt and some, such as my first router came with a small table. 

The problem is that they have limited power, and the 1/4 inch shaft has 1/4 the mass and so no more than 1/4 the strength (resistance to bending or breaking) of a 1/2 inch shaft. Everything that has been said about how they should be used should be taken seriously. I consider myself very lucky in that I was not injured or worse when the 1/4 inch collet router I was using let go of the router bit and sent it on a trajectory out of the solar system. I was probably violating some of the advice already posted. 
When used properly there is a place for router bits with 1/4 inch shafts, and even other sizes such as 1/8 inch, 8 mm, 3/8 inch, etc.

If you start with a a 1/4 inch collet router you will almost certainly soon want to move up to a 1/2 inch collet router with more power. There are adapters available for the 1/2 inch collet routers that allow safe use of router bits with smaller shafts. For the ultimate consider the Musclechuck adapter first(?) championed here by Harry (HarrySin). 
There is an active ongoing discussion of the merits of the 2-1/2 hp vs the 3-1/4 hp routers. Almost anything that can be done with a 1/4 inch collet router can be done with a 1/2 inch collet router. 

There is a place for the rotary tools router setups which use 1/8 inch shaft router bits.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Keep an eye on Craig List for a used router with both a 1/4 and 1/2 inch collect. This way you save money and get a router that will do almost everything.

Also take a look at this company for new and reconditioned tools. I have bought several reconditioned tools from them and they all look new but I had a problem with one of them. Within two days I had another one and they sent me a prepaid UPS tag to send the other one back. UPS even picked it up at the house. I was out zero money and that is important to me.

Reconditioned Routers and Trimmers


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Learningtorpute said:


> I read a place online that claimed if I bought a 1/4 collet router that I'd regret it.  Are they that bad? Thanks. Cutting into hard maple for a cutting board if it matters.


The regret will be that you will be foregoing the additional capabilities that a 1/2" router will provide.
But, then there will be tasks that will be easier to accomplish with a 1/4" router vs a larger 1/2" router.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

A 1/4" is smaller, lighter and easier to handle in certain situations. The one thing that comes to mind is trimming laminate edges.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Learningtorpute said:


> A 1/4" can't use a table?


Yes, it most certainly CAN. My first router was a 1/4" Craftsman in an aluminum router table and it did a lot of work for me. The person I sold it to is still doing a lot of work with it. NOTE:Avoid the aluminum tables.. if you don't clean them often, they tend to leave black marks on your wood. 

1/4" will work, but with a 1/2" your options are far greater as it will be more powerfull than the smaller one.


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## Garyk (Dec 29, 2011)

Most of us who are "seasoned" (aka old) have 1/4" routers because that was all that was available a few years back. I also used one in a small Craftsman metal table without a problem. Just don't stress the bit too much and you will be fine. Over stressing can fracture the shank and have you running for cover. The 1/2" gives you an extra measure of safety and allows you to use larger bits. If you possibly can I would go with a router with both 1/4 and 1/2" capability. That gives you the best of both worlds.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Garyk said:


> Most of us who are "seasoned" (aka old) have 1/4" routers because that was all that was available a few years back. I also used one in a small Craftsman metal table without a problem. Just don't stress the bit too much and you will be fine. Over stressing can fracture the shank and have you running for cover. The 1/2" gives you an extra measure of safety and allows you to use larger bits. If you possibly can I would go with a router with both 1/4 and 1/2" capability. That gives you the best of both worlds.


Gary, my current workshop is quite small and cluttered so running for cover isn't really an option. Is ducking a reasonable alternative? I was contemplating buying a 1/4" router for some light trim work but your post has got me thinking that this may not be such a good idea with my limited escape options.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I and several others have said that your first router should be a plunge type. There are some jobs that can only be done safely with a plunge type and a plunge will also do anything that a fixed base will do but the opposite is not true for a fixed base.

There are a few small routers in 1/4 inch that will plunge and the DeWalt 611 is proving to be one of the most popular. It's slightly bigger than a trimmer and has more power so it is fairly versatile. Bit size is still limited as pointed out. The options in larger routers is much better and you won't be limited in your bit choices. Most larger routers either come with 1/2 and 1/4 inch collets or come with a reducing sleeve for 1/4 bits.

Most of our more experienced members will tell you that the best is one of each type router but we know that that isn't always possible when you are starting out. Once your woodworking skills evolve you'll have to have a larger router to accomplish the things you will want to do so you have to examine what you need and want for now and decide which way to go.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

There is a lot of misinformation online. Nothing wrong with using a router with a 1/4" shank; that was all that was available for many years. Common sense will tell you that a bit with a 1/2" shank is stronger. These bits usually will have less vibration too. Cost difference between these two choices is not significant so it makes sense to go with the larger diameter shanks when possible. The popularity of small trim routers means 1/4" shank bits are your only choice. If you are like most of us you will end up with an assortment of both sizes.

You will find that the Bosch 1617EVSPK is one of the most popular choices with forum members. It offers more power than the PC 690 routers at about the same price; it is also quieter. This kit includes a fixed base for table mounting and a plunge base for free hand work. Both 1/4" and 1/2" collets are included. You will find threads listing the part numbers for all the 1617 accessories in our general routing section.

I strongly encourage you to include dust collection accessories with your router. This cuts down on clean up time and keeping your lungs healthy is priceless.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

N/A; I read all the responses and all _I_ can add is they're spot on. 
There isn't any one router type that does everything perfectly, be it HP or weight, there's always some factor that a different type is more practical, safe, or just plain pleasant to use.
We old geezers are less inclined to grab our 3+ HP beasts, which weigh a ton, when a lightweight trim router is all we need to trim a laminate edge. The opposite is true if one is looking for a permanently mounted table router; HP is king! 
Think of hammers. There's so many different types; they all have their own applications. You wouldn't grab a light finish hammer to do framing with, and conversely yhe diamond milled face pattern of a 26oz Estwing framing hammer will destroy your window trim project if you're putting in finish nails. To carry the analogy one step further, those of us with compressors reach for finish nailers rather than hammers when doing the trim thing.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Garyk said:


> Just don't stress the bit too much and you will be fine. Over stressing can fracture the shank and *have you running for cover*. The 1/2" gives you an extra measure of safety and allows you to use larger bits. If you possibly can I would go with a router with both 1/4 and 1/2" capability. That gives you the best of both worlds.


*have you running for cover* is a joke. If the shank of a router bit fractures you would not be able to see the pieces coming. I have sometimes not removed the plastic coating on new router bits until I started my router. Some of the pieces would hit me and only when I saw the fragments did I have any idea what had hit me. 

Otherwise heed Garyk's advice. Always examine your router bits before insertion into the collet. Any damaged bit must be retired from use permanently.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

All shop accidents happen far to fast to escape them. In some cases, ducking will put your head in the path of the unidentifiable flying object. That is why you wear safety glasses, hearing protection, breathing masks and use devices to keep you away from blades and bits. The Gripper is a must have device, as are push sticks, feather boards and other devices designed to keep you safe. You'll read a lot about jigs on the Forum. They make for consistent and precise work, but many jigs will keep you out of the way of accidents. Unfortunately for our pocket books, the old maxim applies: "Good ain't cheap, and cheap ain't good." Just get that 1617 and go on the internet to find the Bill Hylton book, "Woodworking With The Router," which is the best book on routing I've found so far.

You know, I'm not sure this is completely appropriate for you, but I'm going to post my 17 things (probably more) that have helped me go from duffer to pretty good at woodworking. It has been posted before so some of us old guys can skip it. I will say I rewrote and re read this last week and I'd forgotten some of what was in it. So maybe old timers should give it a glance too.
Here goes:

1)	If you are using Firefox browser, get a free add on YouTube download helper app. Search for videos on all aspects of woodworking that interest you and collect them. I watch a video on the topic of whatever project, or phase of a project, on which I'm currently working. VERY helpful to see it done a few times before you try it yourself. 

I use a YouTube downloader that’s free using the tools menu/add ons. It puts a download button under the video on YouTube. Click the button, name the file (I always label it according to the tool or job it works on. For example, anything to do with routing, I label as "Router", which clusters all the similar videos together in Windows Explorer. All my videos go into a single folder. I sometimes watch woodworking video while on planes, which triggers some interesting conversations.

2) There are hundreds of used books on woodworking on Amazon. Order some on basic tools and woodworking. You'll need to learn to tune up saws and other tools, and books are how I learned to do these things. It wasn't until I tuned up my saws that good results began to happen. My saws cut exactly 90 and 45, or any angle I need now. Two books I really love are Bill Hylton’s “Woodworking with the Router,” and “The Joint Book” by Terrie Noll. The Noll Book is a really concise and heavily illustrated reference with great hints for making every variety of joints. There are lots of good table saw guides.

3) Make some first projects with MDF or ordinary plywood before using more expensive material. Make the same project several times with improved skill, material and workmanship each time. Great learning method.

4) Consider making cabinets or stands for each of your power tools as first projects. My first cabinet was of MDF and my sander and all my sanding gear still sit on and in it. I can't tell you how much confidence I got from building space efficient shop stands and now, all the tools in my smallish shop are on casters and easily moved around for use and cleanup. Put doors on every cabinet to reduce wandering dust and to master making face frames and doors. BTW, if you add casters, use two non swivels on the back and two locking casters on the front--make sure the lock secures both the wheel rotation and the swivel so your carts don't skip around in use. My shop made stands also take up far less floor space than the spread-legged ones that came with the tools, which makes it far easier to move tools around in a compact shop--which is necessary to clean out the insidious sawdust.

5) Many of the woodworking supply stores in the US (and I imagine overseas) have demos on weekends. Attend and get to know the people you meet there. They can turn you on to sources of wood and you can get some nice help and begin a friendship or two. Don’t forget to talk with the employees as well. At our local Rockler, several of the employees are serious and experienced woodworkers and always eager to help. I’ve also found some of the big box stores employ a few very experienced wood workers, carpenters, electricians and plumbers. You just have to start a brief conversation, if they seem knowledgeable, ask them about what they did before they worked at the store.

6) Among your first purchases should be some form of dust control. Many woods are proven carcinogens and can quickly damage your lungs. Dust collection information is on this site. I had a 4-inch, home made system installed to collect sawdust (see update below), but I also have and recommend a dust mask with a small fan that pulls in pressurized air that not only keeps dust out, but also keeps my glasses from fogging. Got mine at Rockler and I keep a couple of sets of rechargable AA batteries ready to use. 

For cutting just a piece or two, I keep surgical style disposable masks handy. I also built a box with 20x20 filter inside and a fan that pulls air through to remove fine airborne dust over time. You can even tape a filter to the back of a fan in a pinch. Don't take your mask off right after cutting or cleaning up because there is always dust floating around for awhile. If you start coughing, it means you need to pay very close attention to dust control and wearing a mask. It takes months to recover from a bout of working unprotected with MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) without a mask. 

Update: After spending a LOT of money trying to make my own dust collection system work, I bought a 5 inch, 2hp unit from Harbor Freight for about $200. It collects the sawdust in a plastic bag which is easier and far less messy to dispose of. The HF unit was on sale and goes on sale from time to time. I would have been money ahead to have bought it in the first place. There are many dust collection machines out there and I wouldn’t go the home made route again. Not sure what I’ll do with all that old gear but am likely to make a new ceiling mounted filter box with greater air flow with one of the blowers. The purpose of that is to draw shop air through and remove fine dust particles over time. Will put a timer switch on it so I can walk away while it scrubs the air. 

Chop and miter saws of all types are usually the worst sawdust scattering offender in the shop. My solution was to use a clear plastic shower curtain that wraps around the saw and catches most of the sawdust that drops down into a collection box. Don’t force this kind of saw since that seems to make the scatter even worse.

I use my dust collection system to clean up the floor. It has one 4 inch flex hose that moves from tool to tool. My router fence has a 2.5 inch port behind the bit, on the fence. There is also a 4 inch port on the box that contains the router under the table. You can find an adapter that has a Y shape, one arm attaches to the 4 inch collector hose, the other connector goes to the fence port. It helps a lot. The problem with sawdust on the router table is that it lifts the workpiece up slightly so your cuts will go off. You must sweep this away frequently, so keep a wide brush handy. 

7) Take your sweet time with projects, there's no rush and it is easy to have a project nearly complete, then make a careless, quick cut or other error that ruins all your good work. In most cases, it is best to fit pieces by putting them in place and marking rather than just measuring and cutting. Cut a bit over and shave the piece down (or use a good block plane) for an exact fit. A good block plane, nice and sharp, is a basic tool you'll use more often than you think.

8) Buy the very best table saw you can manage. It will quickly become the most used tool in your shop. A little debt could move you up a notch and help you produce better results and cut thicker wood. Get the best tools you can afford. Read the reviews and ask questions on the forum before you choose. To me, it is worth it to use credit if necessary to move up the quality scale for the table saw. 

There are models called hybrid saws that have the mechanical works attached to the cabinet rather than the top, which is good. I recently replaced my old contractor saw with a Laguna Fusion saw. My shop is not wired for 220, so I was happy with the 110volt, 1 3/4 hp motor. Many forum members have been very happy with less expensive models, Grizzly for example, but I prefer the Laguna for its amazingly flat table and extensions and its fit and finish (and reasonable price). Learn to set up and tune up your saws and tools (books and videos show you how) because you can’t make anything great if your tools are even slightly off. Many people prefer the Saw Stop because it all but eliminates the risk of cutting off a digit, but you’ll pay about twice the price of otherwise equal saws.

The best safety device is paying very close attention to what you’re doing with a saw, but a close second is a MicroJig Gripper, which lets you control wood on the saw while keeping your fingers safely away from the blade. There is a fancy and a simpler model, either of which is good.

9) If you can, get an electrician to add a 220 outlet or two to your shop. If you set up in the garage, you may be able to use the electrical outlet for the dryer. There are many tools that require 220 volts to work best, and many used 220 v tools are available at really good prices--if you feel comfortable buying used. Another tool source is to visit estate sales. Every once in awhile, you find tools no one else in the family desires or knows the value of, so you can get them cheap.

If you don't have a router yet, I have come to like the Triton TRA001, which is perfect for table use, particularly since you can adjust height quite precisely from the above the table with its built in lift. That feature really saves my knees. However, it is just too heavy for this old guy to control freehand. I really like the Bosch 1617 EVSPK for hand held use. There is a newer model that has a light and switch on the handle that costs more. Both come in a kit with fixed and plunge base. Bosch has many accessories available that are very well made. Others like different brands, but Mike recently checked in on the topic and compared PorterCable plus other brands and I thought the Bosch came out ahead. I prefer the raising and lowering mechanism on the Bosch with its precise micro adjustment knob. The Bosch fixed base can be used as a lift in a table. The books on routers and other topics are really useful for understanding some of the arcane woodworking terms associated with this must have tool..

10) When it comes to router bits, try to stick to the half inch shafts with carbide cutting tips. These are astonishingly sharp. Bosch and Freud are easily available at HD and Lowes, but there are lots of other excellent brands including the well liked Whiteside and Sommerfield bits. Be careful of those ultra sharp tips, which are fragile. I'd suggest storing them in one of those foam lined cases you can get pretty cheap from Harbor Freight, loosely packed so they don't click together. A few of the cheap bits don’t have carbide tips. Spiral bits are sometimes used to cut grooves. Carbide spiral bits are both expensive and fragile and it takes very little abuse to ruin them. Many use high speed steel bits for that purpose.

I buy bits as I need them and don't much care for kits. However, someone recently suggested getting a kit to start out with, then gradually replacing only the bits you actually use with top grade bits. This makes some sense to me, but stick to the half inch shafts if you can manage it--most kits I’ve seen have 1/4 inch shafts. I would avoid huge sets with odd bits you are unlikely ever to use. A few standard bits most of us have are the round over bits. You can get them in different sizes, but mostly you’re likely to use the quarter, half and ¾ sizes. Another bit that is very useful for cabinetry is the half inch rabbiting bit with a bearing. Some come with a changable bearing that allows you to change the depth of the rabbit. Doing fancier stuff makes those cash register numbers spin because door bit sets for example, are pricey! 

One more thing about using bits, don’t try to take off too much wood in one pass. Make several passes taking a little more wood with each pass. Pay attention to the grain of the wood (that is covered in most books on routing) with a final pass just shaving and making for a very smooth finish. My personal rule is to cut no more than 1/8 th of an inch per pass. The larger the bit, the slower you should set the speed control. 

11) The most useful item I own for my saws is a Wixey digital angle gauge, which allows me to set up all my saws to exact angles (eg: 90 degrees to the table). It wasn't until I started being meticulous about this that my projects started working out right. These are about $30 on Amazon.

I have a Bosch 10 inch compound sliding miter saw that I also love, but use it mainly for cross cutting long pieces, but its ability to cut at precise angles is wonderful. 

12) Pocket Hole jig and construction. Although there are many ways to make cabinets and face frames, I have found that pocket hole screws have really made making them easier. Just remember, coarse threads for soft woods, fine thread for hard woods, and I find the square head easier to drive correctly than the Phillips type. My jig is mounted on a chunk of plywood that I can clamp down. The thing makes a lot of sawdust so dust collection is a good idea. I also find that with careful, exact 90 degree end cuts to the wood, the pocket hole approach produces absolutely square cabinets and face frames. You’ll need a couple of face clamps and a Kreg right angle clamp if you use pocket hole joinery. There are many helpful videos on this jig and it is not very expensive as tools go.

13) Make a table saw sled (lots of YouTube videos on how to) for perfect 90 degree cuts on your table saw. I had a little more money than time, so I bought the sled Rockler makes that has a swinging fence and a very precise angle scale. I love that thing and set up a special shelf right next to my table saw to store it and keep it flat. Cross cuts on the sled are wonderfully exact and it prevents most tear out, the ragged or splintered area at the end of a cut. The sled is also a much safer way to cut short pieces as well. You set the sled to a precise 90 or 45 angle using a drafting square. 

Most saws come with a miter gauge, but I prefer one of the precision gauges. I have an Osborne gauge I really like, but many here like Incra’s gauge. Precision is important with gauges.

You will read a LOT about jigs here and in your books and videos. Jigs, accurate T squares, a good straightedge are all incredibly useful for producing good work. The more I venture into really good hard wood construction, the more I appreciate how jigs produce accurate results without wasting expensive wood through mis-cuts.

14) I had a lot of problems with tear out at first, but most of that stopped when I started using a sacrificial backup block to push the last bit of a piece through the router. I often use square pieces of MDF (medium density fiberboard) because it is cheap and stays flat. When it gets torn up, I just cut off a chunk and use what’s left. Really helps! You can do the same with any piece by putting a backer board behind where the cut goes--you cut through the piece first, the backer last. You may also want to use feather boards to hold boards in correct alignment to the fence and blade or bit.

Zero Clearance Inserts for the table saw: On the table saw, buy or make blank inserts to make zero clearance inserts (see YouTube for how to do it), this really helps make great, tear-out free cuts. I also found that I wanted to push that last quarter inch through the bit too fast, now I feed at a steady pace all through the cut. 

15) Clamps: The joke is you can never have too many clamps. The ones I use most are about $3 each at Harbor Freight, about 9 inch F clamps (they look like an F). I have 18 of them at a couple of bucks each. The same source has longer versions up to 24 inches and I keep 4 to 6 of the 18 and 24 inch models. I have four sets of two of 24 to 60 inch (Jet) parallel clamps for making really square cabinets and other items where holding things square for glue up is important. The better the quality of bar clamps, the thicker and stronger the bar will be. I’ve all but given up on plastic clamps, but have a few that look like scissors for lightly holding things together or down. Depending on what you’re making, a few wooden hand screw clamps could be useful, including holding small parts for safer routing. I recently added a couple of special steel C clamps that have a 12 inch open throat. Very handy item! 

16) Hand planes and hand tools: Learning to use these is something of an art, as is proper sharpening and setting of their blades. There are lots of woodworkers who really love working with hand tools, most will suggest you buy used and clean and tune them up--which is actually quite fun. I prefer just to buy new and really like the Wood River V3 brand for its quality and acceptable price. 

Chisels are important particularly if you are making furniture. Sharpening chisels is a basic skill involving many ultra fine grits of sandpaper, ultra flat surfaces, maybe diamond grit sharpening stones—arcane stuff, but anything less than a razor sharp chisel is pretty useless. Don’t scrimp on chisels, cheap ones get dull fast. Look up sharpening methods on YouTube, it takes patience but not much money to work sharp. I recently bought a diamond sharpening device with diamond dust imbedded in a nickel steel plate. It has small cut out ovals so the metal grit doesn't clog the diamond surface. Use these sparingly and use one of the specialty diamond sharpening lubricants with it. I use this for quick sharpening touch ups, just 4-5 strokes will do. It’s a little easier to use than the sand paper method, which I save for major sharpening tasks. The most important thing is to flatten the back of the first inch or two of the chisel. Unless that is flat, you can’t sharpen a chisel or plane blade (iron) accurately.

The one plane every shop should have is a small block plane. These have so many uses that’s it is hard to list them all, but they are really great for trimming up ends of workpieces, quickly rounding over edges without having to set up a router, fine fitting the length of a board. New ones can be had in decent quality for about $100 bucks and up. All planes require being tuned up before they are any good. You can look this process up on Youtube. Cheap block planes are passable if you really work them over first, but most won’t hold an edge very well and some are not milled accurately and will never cut right.


17) If you have a dedicated shop space, take the time and trouble to insulate it. You will enjoy working in it much more if you're not roasting or freezing. I recently installed a middle sized window AC unit through a shop shed wall for relief from our desert summer and it is now even more of a pleasure to be out there. Insulation also holds in heat during winter. A couple of heaters bring the temp up, but just one keeps it comfortable after that. Cold fingers are clumsy, not good around spinning blades!

Finally, Stick suggests that you use the Forum’s archives when you have questions. There is a wealth of answers to any questions you might have. He also cautions about using one word search terms, which can return massive amounts of information. Here’s the link: https://archive.org/

Woodworking is not necessarily a cheap hobby. Wood can be costly, so are decent tools, And there's hardware, stuff for jigs, dust collection and on and on as you get going. My good wood supplier is 60 miles away, so I often work in decent local pine and plywood with as many layers as I can find. I found some decent plywood at HD. Before long you will hear how superior Baltic Birch is to the best of HD ply, but you have to ferret out a decent source. Chinese made birch ply is generally no match for the real stuff, which, when you cut it shows no voids inside. To me the 60 miles is a small price to pay to work with the good ply.

This has run pretty long, but I think the information is helpful for someone new to the hobby. The suggestions represent a LOT of trial and error. And yes, you can spend a lot getting set up, but most of us built up our shop and tools over time, nearly a decade for me. Beside that, my wife likes me being around, but busy out in the shop.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Well, like everything in life, it depends. I have five routers, all 1/4" shank. I do have a couple other style bits, but only used my roundover bit maybe once, the other(s), never. I use a 1/4" shank,
maybe 1-1 1/2" long 1/2" cutter, pattern bit. Or however you describe them. I only use my router in my homemade table, period. 99.999% of my work is with 1/2" plywood, the occasional 3/4" plywood, and on rare instances, solid wood. I always try to rough cut my materials 1/8", preferably less, but no more than 1/4", if I can help it. When a rough cut is more than that, it calls for a series of very shallow cuts, not hogging it, and working much slower than a close cut. I always put a drop of fine oil, Marvel Mystery Oil, or ATF, on the bearing - no real evidence, but this seems to extend bearing life considerably. One router is probably the lowest priced Craftsman, bought new, not working, because it needs a wire soldered back. Another, same, except working. The other three are also probably the lowest priced Craftsmans, and were given to me. They're all well over fifteen years, and working fine - except for the one, just haven't gotten around to reoldering the wire. Up to now, and the forseeable future, they do just what I want, so I won't be getting a 1/2" router, unless all five die.

But, I'm not saying get a 1/4" shank router, my needs are quite specific, and my routers meet those needs very well, so I have no reason to get a larger router. If my needs change, then I will add another router. And I think a router is the mostest fun in my shop.
:laugh2:


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## Learningtorpute (May 28, 2016)

JOAT said:


> Well, like everything in life, it depends. I have five routers, all 1/4" shank. I do have a couple other style bits, but only used my roundover bit maybe once, the other(s), never. I use a 1/4" shank,
> maybe 1-1 1/2" long 1/2" cutter, pattern bit. Or however you describe them. I only use my router in my homemade table, period. 99.999% of my work is with 1/2" plywood, the occasional 3/4" plywood, and on rare instances, solid wood. I always try to rough cut my materials 1/8", preferably less, but no more than 1/4", if I can help it. When a rough cut is more than that, it calls for a series of very shallow cuts, not hogging it, and working much slower than a close cut. I always put a drop of fine oil, Marvel Mystery Oil, or ATF, on the bearing - no real evidence, but this seems to extend bearing life considerably. One router is probably the lowest priced Craftsman, bought new, not working, because it needs a wire soldered back. Another, same, except working. The other three are also probably the lowest priced Craftsmans, and were given to me. They're all well over fifteen years, and working fine - except for the one, just haven't gotten around to reoldering the wire. Up to now, and the forseeable future, they do just what I want, so I won't be getting a 1/2" router, unless all five die.
> 
> But, I'm not saying get a 1/4" shank router, my needs are quite specific, and my routers meet those needs very well, so I have no reason to get a larger router. If my needs change, then I will add another router. And I think a router is the mostest fun in my shop.
> :laugh2:


Do you have an example of the work you use it for?


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

I had only a 1/4" router for many years and used it for a lot of projects. But I would agree with the consensus that unless you have a specific reason for getting a 1/4" router - like very limited budget or wanting the lighter weight - then get a 1/2" because it'll give you so much more flexibility. You can get a 1/4" collet for it and still use 1/4" bits if you want to.

The only cutter I've ever broken at the shank was actually a 1/2" shank - but a little 1/4" cutter. There's a school of thought that says these small cutters are actually more prone to breaking on the larger shank size.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Learningtorpute said:


> Do you have an example of the work you use it for?


You can click on the View (members user name) Uploads button at the bottom of the panel with their user name in it to see things that members have posted.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Learningtorpute said:


> Do you have an example of the work you use it for?


Yeah, what Chuck said. Neat, I never knew about that before. Not sure my monster truck bank is on there so I'll put up some photos of that. I probably don't take enough photos of what I'm doing, so sometimes it gets a bit confusing on what I did. I've got one photo, from another site, that I have no real clue about what I was doing. Fun tho. Oh yeah, I'll include a photo of my updated, highly detailed, monster truck plans, it will be just over 23" long, should hold 11+ gallons of coins, don't have any photos of the 8" monster truck plans, or of my revised piggy bank plans, also 23"+ and 8". Feel free to use the truck plans, just don't sell them.
>


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Pretty sure these canes aren't on here. So adding them. The two on the tailgate - the sapling cane, made after I lost the laminated oak flooring cane. Don't make sapling canes anymore, even tho people say they look great, turned out too weak, snapped like a twig when I fell on iced steps. 

The other two I took today, both first gen canes. I'm working on about gen 8 or so now.

Thought I'd added these too, but apparently not. Two on making my sapling cane handles, and the other - well, I don't know what it was for. Most of my work is with a router, don't even saw straight lines much, just tack a straightedge down, and rout a straight line. For what I do, it's less hassle for me to do it this way. Did a nice 2 foot or so cigar store Indian bank, my older son has. And in the progress stages are Statue Of Liberty, and cigar store Indian, banks, both 5 feet tall.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Learningtorpute said:


> A 1/4" can't use a table?


You probably can with a little fiddling with the mounting, maybe getting a blank aluminum plate and hand drilling it to fit. But there won't be much power available and you'd have to step your work through in multiple shallow passes. That's why i have a 3.25 hp Triton in the table. Power to spare so fewer passes required for deep cuts.


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