# Bosch 4100



## EQUINOX400 (Feb 17, 2011)

I installed a Freud LU84R011 blade in my Bosch 4100. The first piece I tried to rip was 1/2" piece of walnut about 9" long. About halfway thru the cut, and about the time the piece started going thru the riving knife, the board began to chatter and kickbacked part of the cut piece. I miked the riving knife and got 0.089" reading and 0.126 for the kerf of the blade. I assume the new blade is the problem. Are after market riving knives available for this saw or do I just have to go out and get another blade? (One with a kerf somewhat less than the riving knife)?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

EQUINOX400 said:


> I installed a Freud LU84R011 blade in my Bosch 4100. The first piece I tried to rip was 1/2" piece of walnut about 9" long. About halfway thru the cut, and about the time the piece started going thru the riving knife, the board began to chatter and kickbacked part of the cut piece. I miked the riving knife and got 0.089" reading and 0.126 for the kerf of the blade. I assume the new blade is the problem. Are after market riving knives available for this saw or do I just have to go out and get another blade? (One with a kerf somewhat less than the riving knife)?


Hi James - Afraid you're right.. The 4100 really wants a thin kerf blade. The Freud spec on that LU84 is for a plate of .087, very, very close to the thickness of your riving knife. The knife needs to be thinner than the kerf but thicker than the plate of the blade. You may also have a slight misalighnment issue, it wouldn't take much. Try the Freud LU83 series thin kerf combination. Same tooth specs as your LU84 but with a kerf of .091 and plate of .071.
BTW, The riving knife has the thicknes stamped on it on my Ridgid 4510, maybe yours is stamped also and is out of specs???


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

I've been using that exact blade for quite some time on my 4100 with no trouble.
But, I will say that when I first installed it, I also adjusted the riving knife to be aligned with the "outside" of the plate, not the teeth. I'm saying outside meaning the side opposite the fence. 
Just lay a straightedge against the body of your blade (make sure it doesn't touch a tooth) and adjust the riving knife to that. Also, with the 4100, make sure that it is perpendicular to your blade. Yeah, you have to make both adjustments simultaneously but, once done, your done.
In my experience with that blade, you should be very,very happy.


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## EQUINOX400 (Feb 17, 2011)

I spent so time re-aligning the riving knife and it seems to have solved the problem. Thank you for your prompt response.


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## EQUINOX400 (Feb 17, 2011)

I followed your instructions and the adjustment seems to have worked. Bosch gives no instructions about riving knife adjustment. Apparently, if everything works with their blade, no adjustment is needed. I appreciate your quick response.


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## Joesf (Nov 27, 2010)

*Riving Knife Adjustment From the Bosch Manual*

I have this saw. While I have to say the riving knife adjustments mentioned here make more sense to me Bosch does include instructions. The following is from the manual for the 4100-09. If you did not receive a manual it is online,

http://mdm.boschwebservices.com/files/r19628v2.pdf

From Online manual page 42 (the manual has diagrams)

Riving Knife Alignment IMPORTANT: The Riving Knife 1 must always be in line with the
Saw Blade 2. The Riving Knife 1 is thinner than the width of the Kerf 4 by approximately three thicknesses of paper 5 on each side (Fig 27). Note: The Kerf is the width of the cut made by the teeth on the saw blade.
To prevent personal injury, always disconnect plug
from power source before making any adjustments and when attaching or removing the Smart Guard System.
Checking Riving Knife Alignment NOTE: The Riving Knife has been properly aligned at the factory -
Check the alignment before making any adjustments.
1. Raise the Saw Blade to maximum height and set the bevel angle to 0°.
2. Remove the Barrier Guard Assembly and Anti-Kickback Device (see manual).
3.Place the Rip Fence 3 on the right side and slide it until it touches the tips of the Saw Blade 2 - Lock fence.
4. Check the alignment:
A. From the top, look down over the Fence and check that the Riving Knife is in line (front to back) with the blade and parallel with the fence.
B. Slide the fence away from the blade. Look over the front of the blade and check that the Riving Knife is in line with the blade.
C. If steps A or B show misalignment, proceed to “Adjusting Riving Knife”.
Adjusting Riving Knife 1. Raise the Saw Blade 2 to maximum height and set the bevel
angle to 0°.
2. Remove the Barrier Guard Assembly and Anti-Kickback Device (see manual).
3. Remove the Table Insert. 4. Place the Rip Fence 3 on the right side and slide it until it touches
the tips of the Saw Blade 2 - Lock fence.
5. Loosen Hex Nut 6 with 10mm open end wrench (Fig. 28). Slightly loosen Clamping Screws 8 (1/4-1/2 turns) using a 5mm Allen wrench provided with table saw (stored in right side of base). Loosen Set Screw 7 using a flat screwdriver (Fig. 28).
6. Make two folds in a small piece of paper (6" x 6") forming three layers (Fig. 27). Paper 5 is used as a “Spacing Gauge”.
NOTE: The spacing instructions above are based on using a standard kerf blade (.128” kerf on the Bosch blade included). If a smaller kerf blade is used, adjust the paper spacer. For instance, if the kerf of the replacement blade is near .100”, use 1 thickness of paper as a spacer; if the kerf is near .110”, use 2 thicknesses.
7. Insert folded paper 5 between Riving Knife 1 and Fence 3.
A. Hold Riving Knife and paper firmly against Fence (Fig. 28 & 29).
B. Lightly tighten the clamp screws 8.
C. Remove the paper - Slide fence away from blade.
D. Slowly turn the Set Screw 7 while watching the Riving Knife tilt until it is in line with the blade.
E. Recheck squareness of riving knife to table by sliding fence against blade. Readjust if necessary.
8. After completing adjustments:
A. Lightly tighten hex nut 6 (hold set screw position with screwdriver while tightening nut).
B. Fully tighten Clamp Screws 8 with Allen wrench. Then fully tighten the hex nut.
NOTE: Check that the riving knife stays in line with blade when the blade is tilted at any angle. Replace the Barrier Guard Assembly and Anti-Kickback Device before making cuts.


from online manual page 30


IMPORTANT: The saw blade provided on this tool has a carbide-tipped kerf width of .128” and a plate (body) thickness that is .086” thick. When looking for a replacement blade, select one with dimensions close to the original blade. This information may not be printed on the blades packaging. If not, check the manufacturers catalog or website. Bosch offers an extensive line of Premium-Quality Professional Saw Blades that match the requirements for this tool. You must select a blade with a kerf width of .092” or more and a plate (body) thickness .088” or less (Fig. 10).
To reduce the risk of injury, do not use extra
thin kerf saw blades. The kerf of the blade must be wider than .092”. Extra thin kerf saw blades (less than .092”) may cause the work piece to bind against the riving knife during cutting. It is recommended that the kerf of the
replacement blade used on this saw be .092” or more.
To reduce the risk of injury, do not use saw
blades made with a thick body plate. If the replacement saw blade's plate thickness is greater than .088”, the riving knife would not properly serve as an aid to reduce kickback. The replacement blade's plate thickness must be less
than .088”.
To reduce the risk of injury, do not use blade
“dampeners,” “stabilizers,” or “stiffening collars” on both sides of a replacement blade. These are metal plates positioned against the sides of the blade to reduce deflection that may occur when using thin saw blades. Use of these devices on both sides will prevent the blade from being properly aligned with the riving knife, which may bind the work piece during cutting. One “stabilizer” plate may be placed only against the outside of a thin replacement blade. These plates are
not required with the supplied Bosch blade.


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## MM94550 (Aug 10, 2014)

*Blade To Miter Slot Alignment*

Hello everyone. I purchased a Bosch 4100 table saw earlier this year and have used it to build a stand for my bench top drill press. I noticed some burning on my pieces during the whole thing but continued on anyway since it was just a simple stand made from cheap 2X4’s. Well, as I became more educated about table saws I went thru all of the alignments and discovered that the saw blade was not perfectly parallel to the miter slots. I used a combination square to do the measurement and best I can tell there is between .010 and .020 inch difference. I went thru the alignment as outlined in the manual but I couldn’t make any adjustment. Bosch support told me that some of the mounting brackets (part 2610950126 and 2610950127) that support the holding plate assembly (part 2610950051) were machined without enough play for adjustment. So they sent me front and rear replacements. They also told me that there were no instructions available on how to replace them and that if I had trouble to just send the saw to one of their service centers which I would prefer not to do. This has been a bit frustrating since I cannot seem to find any information about how to replace the brackets. When I found this forum and thread about the 4100 it seemed to me a good bet to pose my question here. Hopefully I can get some information or some good advice which would be just as good. Thank you.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MM94550 said:


> Hello everyone. I purchased a Bosch 4100 table saw earlier this year and have used it to build a stand for my bench top drill press. I noticed some burning on my pieces during the whole thing but continued on anyway since it was just a simple stand made from cheap 2X4’s. Well, as I became more educated about table saws I went thru all of the alignments and discovered that the saw blade was not perfectly parallel to the miter slots. I used a combination square to do the measurement and best I can tell there is between .010 and .020 inch difference. I went thru the alignment as outlined in the manual but I couldn’t make any adjustment. Bosch support told me that some of the mounting brackets (part 2610950126 and 2610950127) that support the holding plate assembly (part 2610950051) were machined without enough play for adjustment. So they sent me front and rear replacements. They also told me that there were no instructions available on how to replace them and that if I had trouble to just send the saw to one of their service centers which I would prefer not to do. This has been a bit frustrating since I cannot seem to find any information about how to replace the brackets. When I found this forum and thread about the 4100 it seemed to me a good bet to pose my question here. Hopefully I can get some information or some good advice which would be just as good. Thank you.


 I have my GI at .002 (blade to miter slot ) and fence at .005 runout . But I still had the odd issue so I have adjusted the fence for more runout


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

EQUINOX400 said:


> I installed a Freud LU84R011 blade in my Bosch 4100. The first piece I tried to rip was 1/2" piece of walnut about 9" long. About halfway thru the cut, and about the time the piece started going thru the riving knife, the board began to chatter and kickbacked part of the cut piece. I miked the riving knife and got 0.089" reading and 0.126 for the kerf of the blade. I assume the new blade is the problem. Are after market riving knives available for this saw or do I just have to go out and get another blade? (One with a kerf somewhat less than the riving knife)?


raise the blade a little bit....


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## MM94550 (Aug 10, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> I have my GI at .002 (blade to miter slot ) and fence at .005 runout . But I still had the odd issue so I have adjusted the fence for more runout


Update: Well I just decided to take the plunge anyway to replace those brackets. I started with the front bracket with the machine in it’s stow away position (I have the 4100-09 with the gravity stand). After blocking up the plate assembly with some pieces of 2X4’s the front bracket came off with just a bit of coaxing. But before replacing it with the new one I measured the hole diameters and found them to be the same as the new bracket, 0.268”. Interesting. So I put it back without replacing it. The rear bracket hole diameters measured 0.258”. I didn’t replace it either. Seems that I had the proper brackets to begin with and the issue is with the procedure outlined in the manual to make the blade to miter slot adjustment. So I went ahead and used the technique used with machines that have a trunion. After making measurements and finding out what side needed to be moved, I used a piece of round stock bar about 10” long to tap the bracket. After several iterations of tapping and re-measuring I finally got the blade to miter slot to be close to 0.002”. Seemed like a good number to me. After all of that was done I ripped 6 pieces of plywood 1 ¾” laminated stock to square up. No burning what so ever. I am now happy!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MM94550 said:


> Update: Well I just decided to take the plunge anyway to replace those brackets. I started with the front bracket with the machine in it’s stow away position (I have the 4100-09 with the gravity stand). After blocking up the plate assembly with some pieces of 2X4’s the front bracket came off with just a bit of coaxing. But before replacing it with the new one I measured the hole diameters and found them to be the same as the new bracket, 0.268”. Interesting. So I put it back without replacing it. The rear bracket hole diameters measured 0.258”. I didn’t replace it either. Seems that I had the proper brackets to begin with and the issue is with the procedure outlined in the manual to make the blade to miter slot adjustment. So I went ahead and used the technique used with machines that have a trunion. After making measurements and finding out what side needed to be moved, I used a piece of round stock bar about 10” long to tap the bracket. After several iterations of tapping and re-measuring I finally got the blade to miter slot to be close to 0.002”. Seemed like a good number to me. After all of that was done I ripped 6 pieces of plywood 1 ¾” laminated stock to square up. No burning what so ever. I am now happy!


Good job !


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

EQUINOX400 said:


> I spent so time re-aligning the riving knife and it seems to have solved the problem. Thank you for your prompt response.


I never bothered installing mine . Wondering now if I should as I try to be safety conscience .
I'm going to try Sticks idea and raise the blade next time I have an issue . One thing I like about having the blade higher than necessary is more dust gets removed to the extractor


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> I never bothered installing mine . Wondering now if I should as I try to be safety conscience .
> I'm going to try Sticks idea and raise the blade next time I have an issue . One thing I like about having the blade higher than necessary is more dust gets removed to the extractor


I said slightly...
as in a gullet... 

a not sharp blade but not dull w/ the teeth barely protruding above the material being cut will cause chatter... and kick back..


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## Joesf (Nov 27, 2010)

I just bought a Diablo D1040 X for my Bosch 4100. Kerf .098, plate thickness .071. It has great reviews is made by Freud. I have not installed it yet.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Joesf said:


> I just bought a Diablo D1040 X for my Bosch 4100. Kerf .098, plate thickness .071. It has great reviews is made by Freud. I have not installed it yet.


that blade is not bad (I like 'em) but keep in mind that it is Freud's entry level.. 
I have several of the 4100's and use Freud's LU/LM series and a few Fusions...
No worries or issues..
riving knives are set to the left hand side of the blade body...


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Stick486 said:


> I said slightly...
> as in a gullet...
> 
> a not sharp blade but not dull w/ the teeth barely protruding above the material being cut will cause chatter... and kick back..


Very good info in that pdf, Stick. Wonder if we can get a moderator to post it as a sticky!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Dmeadows said:


> Very good info in that pdf, Stick. Wonder if we can get a moderator to post it as a sticky!


thanks...
good idea on the sticky...

but according to the view count you are the only one that opened it.....


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> I never bothered installing mine . Wondering now if I should as I try to be safety conscience .
> I'm going to try Sticks idea and raise the blade next time I have an issue . One thing I like about having the blade higher than necessary is more dust gets removed to the extractor


I always run mine with a riving knife... besides it being safety conscious, I get better cut quality. I do have a collection of riving knives of different shapes and thicknesses.

I have to admit that I used the stock "original" for 2 days and haven't used than one since. It was made to be above the blade and had the blade guard hinged off it. The blade guard, with the dc hose wanted to flex the riving knife. Then I had to adjust it back down if I was doing grooving. That just didn't work for me. Now I use a different desing knife and use an over0head gaurd that flots above the table and blade.

Advantage I have on my saw, is I have loads of assess to chage baldes and adjust my riving knives. I can see mine fron the side as I'm adjusting. I guess without that, it would be more of a challenge to that.

I have a big collection of blades. Frued Commercial makes some good blades at a fair price, depending what your want to do. So are some others. I have some thin-kerf blades... but I am running a bit more HP than most, so I use them for an application. Usually with blade stiffeners. Most my blades are 1/8" kerfs.

Not afraid to to say it, but my favorite blades are not American. But I also know soem blades work better on some saws than others. There are blades that work better on my panel saw, that are different than work best on my shop saw, that are different than on my jobsite saw... But Generally, a German Brand, a couple Canadian Brands (Royce/Ayer is one), then a Japanese brand (Tenryu)... Then Forrest, Frued Industrial and CMT.... But I've grown to like a few of the Irwin-Marples blades.


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## Joesf (Nov 27, 2010)

Siick do you use the LU84R11? It seems to be a near perfect match for the stock blade. 

Item Number: LU84R011

10" x 50T Combination Blade

Ideal For: Crosscuts (3/4" to 3-1/2") & Rips (3/8" to 1-1/2").
Machine Use: Miter Saw,Table Saw,Radial Arm Saw,Portable Table Saw
Materials: Plywood, Laminate, Chip Board, Hardwood, Softwood
Diameter

10"
Teeth

50
Grind

COMB
Arbor

5/8"
Hook Angle

10°
Kerf

.126"
Plate

.087" - See more at: Freud Tools | 10" Combination Blade


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Joesf said:


> Stick do you use the LU84R11? It seems to be a near perfect match for the stock blade.


yes I do...
but the LU83R010 sees way more use over the 84R...

and the LM71M010, LM72M010 and LM74R010....

and let's not forget LU74R010, and LU88R010...

of course... LU79R010 and/or LU80R010...

generally I set up 3 saws - 1 for rip, 1 for cross cut.. and one for ply..

less project time, less set ups and a better product...


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## Joesf (Nov 27, 2010)

Well the Diablo seems to be cutting fine so far with a .98 kerf and .71 plate (according to Freud). I have the LU79R10 for cross cut and it is a perfect match on plate thickness and kerf.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

.91" riving knife is for a .75" thin kerf plate, which typically creates a 1.0" kerf... My riving knife assortment ranges from 2mm to 4mm. I can't say for sure that Hitachi makes their own riving knives... but mine uses the same knife as Felder, Altendorf, Marin, SCMC, etc... which is a standard European design and are all interchangeable. (I get my best prices on those from Felder)

Here is a good guide (look at page 3):
http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/wis16.pdf


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## Joesf (Nov 27, 2010)

Stamped on the 4100 knife it says knife thickness .090, Use plate thickness .088 or less kerf width .092 or more.

Thanks for the link to the HSE.


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## Joesf (Nov 27, 2010)

Diablo 40 tooth combo blade cutting hardwoods fine on the 4100 so far.


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