# Where can I find this Slick method for cutting router plate opening into table



## Peter Sanders (Sep 16, 2007)

Hi

Some time ago, somewhere I read about a method used to cut the opening for router plates into router tables.

I cannot find the info anywhere - I should have saved it then 

The method used (IIRC) a bearing guided straight bit and a bearing guided rabbet bit. The size of the bits and the bearings where the crux of the EASE of installation.

I guess I could sit down and figure this out myself, but I wanted to see the original in case there were other hints/tips or finer points that I don't recall.

So, the method (again IIRC) involves taking the mounting plate, using it as the guide for the bearing guide of the straight bit to cut the hole/opening in what WILL be the template guide.

This template guide will be used for BOTH the straight bit AND the rabbet bit, to cut the opening AND the rebate for the router plate in the router table.

The methodology allows the ONE template to be used for cutting the opening AND the rebate on which the router plate rests.

This of course means that only one template guide is needed AND it only has to be placed ONCE on the router table to obtain a PERFECT fit of the router plate.

The method can of course also be used for any other kind of insert. The princple behind the method is tht there are NO calculations involved, NO measuring involved, the method ONLY requires the use of appripriate sized bits and bearings to achieve excellent accuracy.

Can anyone "point" me to the web site or other info on this method?

Thank you...


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Just one way of doing it, see below 
plus this link
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/sstat-3.htm
-----------
the stick way
http://wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_20.html
-----------
http://www.routerworkshop.com/recesstemplate.html
=========


----------



## Peter Sanders (Sep 16, 2007)

Hi

Thanks bobj3.

I would still appreciate a location of the "slick" method though


----------



## Wood Dog (May 7, 2007)

Go to the "Bench Dog" web site,You'll find it there under Facts.


----------



## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

I couldn't find it or any listing for "facts" ,at the bull dog site, I'm curious too.

Regards
Jerry


----------



## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

I think he meant go to Support -> FAQs on the benchdog.com site.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter,,, you'er welcome

This maybe the one you are talking about .

http://www.benchdog.com/faq-installprolift.htm

Router bit you will need ▼
Pattern/Flush Trim Bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...html/pages/bt_flush.html#pattern_flush_anchor

OR from ▼
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-4-SH-Top...5910393QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/5pc-Top-Bearing...5911595QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-Dovetail-R...2769330QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

OR from ▼
http://woodworkersworld.net/template_bits.shtml

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-812-690-1...41-0208429?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1193326546&sr=1-2

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-50-103-...-0208429?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1193326857&sr=1-144

======



Peter Sanders said:


> Hi
> 
> Thanks bobj3.
> 
> I would still appreciate a location of the "slick" method though


----------



## Wood Dog (May 7, 2007)

Yep,thats it!!!


----------



## Peter Sanders (Sep 16, 2007)

Hi



Wood Dog said:


> Yep,thats it!!!


No, that's not it for me 

Thank you for the info though. I appreciate the effort 

While it is a good method, it is more or less the same as the "sticks" method Bobj3 showed in an earlier post.

I am beginning to wonder if have imagined this  

Maybe I read about it in a book?

AFAIK, the method to which I refer, requires NO measuring to create the template guide from the mounting plate (or any other "plate" that may be required to fit similarly to a router plate). No measuring from the template guide to create the opening for the router OR the recess for the plate.

That's why it is sooo "slick"...

All that is required (IIRC) is two router bits, straight and rabbet and two different size bearing guides.

You can then create an exact template guide from which you can then duplicate the exact same size opening minus the width of the recess and the exact same size opening PLUS recess as the mounting plate.

This method (IIRC) would also work for irregular shaped "plates".

I guess if I do find it again I'll keep a copy


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

If you find it please post it 

It would be tricky using the rabbet bit because of the radis of the bit.. I can see how it would work once the center hole is out but using a rabbet bit to put in the lip,but it would be hairy to keep it flat and true  

Rick and Bob R. of the RWS make many templates/jigs using the sticks way but it takes a router table setup the norm..I guess you could use the plunge router with a trim router bit and a rabbet bit and do it from the back side and the front side of the board but using the rabbet bit, well I sure would like to see the plans/setup on that one... 


SO PLEASE post it when you find it


----------



## Peter Sanders (Sep 16, 2007)

Hi Bobj3

I *think* I might have found it?

It's NOT quite like the pictures I have in my mind. It's in a book I bought yesterday. I need to review the method again before posting here. I'll get back to this thread soon  BTW the book method uses template guides, not bearing guides, that's why I am not sure if it is exactly the same method. (searching brain now for more memory details  )


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Pls. do.. 

template guides would make it harder to use the rabbet bit because of the size of the cutter..( OD ,Out side dia.) of the bit.. 

I'm looking for to your feed back  thanks

=============


----------



## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

It seems to me that the "slick" method is not as slick as it should be if you gotta mess around with a chisel on the ledge that the table insert is going to sit on. What should be done with the "slick" method is to use sticks for the template thick enough to catch the bearing on the template bit when you place the insert plate across a corner of the sticks set the plunge router on the plate insert and lower the bit so that it just touches the surface of the table. Remove the table insert and rout around the template.The material removed is the thickness of the table insert.
Certainly, no messing around with a chisel will be necessary.

Lee


----------



## labric (Sep 11, 2004)

Hi Peter

I believe you are referring to an old post of mine in response to "Mowerhappys" request for help in post " Baseplate and Recess Template Help"   

I describe the method I utilized to make a baseplate template for cutting and recessing the baseplate into the router table, using a spiral bit, rabbetting bit and guide bushings.





> Here are some notes and pictures to pass along to you.
> 
> Picture #1:
> Shows materials and equipment used.
> ...



To see the original post http://www.routerforums.com/portable-routing/2552-baseplate-recess-template-help.html

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...5-baseplate-recess-template-help-dcp00660.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...6-baseplate-recess-template-help-dcp00667.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...7-baseplate-recess-template-help-dcp00664.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...8-baseplate-recess-template-help-dcp00665.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...9-baseplate-recess-template-help-dcp00662.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...0-baseplate-recess-template-help-dcp00666.jpg

It worked real well for both of us as far as I know. :sold: :sold: 

Hope this helps!!

  Ric


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just my 2 cents

After taking a hard look at all the ways to put in the router table base plate I would say the Bench Dog way is the best way,, it's lookls like the real easy way to get the job done, the router plate can be any size or it can be off just a bit but the Bench Dog way will take care of that error....the center cut out is not a big deal because it's scrap stock once it's cut out but the lip to hold the base plate must be dead on and the pattern bit will do that job very well  , plus you can use just about any size router to get the job done almost every one has a jig saw to cut out the 3/4" to 
1 3/4" thick plug (center) then just use a light router with the pattern to put the lip in place and you'er done..


==============


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'm certain that both Tom and myself would do it like Labric, the difference being that the template would be 4 pieces of MDF glued together leaving the correct size opening, and of course there is no need for the rounded corners as the template guide will produce this in the table.


----------



## Peter Sanders (Sep 16, 2007)

Hi


harrysin said:


> I'm certain that both Tom and myself would do it like Labric, the difference being that the template would be 4 pieces of MDF glued together leaving the correct size opening, and of course there is no need for the rounded corners as the template guide will produce this in the table.


Even this is too much like hard work when compared with the method to which I refer.


----------



## Peter Sanders (Sep 16, 2007)

Hi

Ok for all those that wanted to know how "it's" done!

I found the method that I think is the correct one, though not quite like I recall.

The method is in this book...










http://www.amazon.com/Router-magic-Bill-Hylton/dp/0762101857

on pages 170-172.

I have emailled Bill Hylton the author, seeking pernission to use these pages either here or where specified by Bill. That way (hopefully) all the info, not just snippets, can be made available for curent and future members to utilise.

Members just might even buy the book, I did and can highly recommend it 

If permission is not granted then I will do my best to describe the method without infringing copyright. I can draw quite well.


Thanks for your patience, I will get back to you asap - awaiting Bill's reply.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

I have the book and just took a look at it and it's the same as the one(s) that has been posted in this thread.......the template way...with a jig saw cut out..but no rabbet bit that I could see.. 

But I will say you need to take one more hard look at the BenchDog way,,,
no math needed ,,,and it's done with one bit and a jig saw,,,,It's hard to make any install errors..
The pattern bit is the key,,,  no templates needed just some sticks and some double sided carpet tape ...

http://www.benchdog.com/faq-installprolift.htm
----------------


=========


===========


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Damn it Bj., I was expecting some NEW method that even Template Tom hadn't come up with.


----------



## billybob66 (Mar 9, 2007)

Here's another way....

Purchase an "inlay bushing kit", consisting if a brass bushing and a slip on collar. Lee Valley sells them. P.N.#04J28.07 Also, you'll need a guide bushing with an O.D. 1/4" to 3/8" larger, and a collar depth of less than 1/4". Take your table insert, and fasten to a piece of 1/4" MDF or hardboard with screws or double sided tape. Fasten this to a larger sheet of sacrificial material. Drill a 1/4" hole anywhere along the perimeter of where the hardboard meets the baseplate, as a starter hole for the routing. Using a 1/4"straight bit, and the guide bushing (without the collar), rout around the baseplate, until you've cut out a "window". DO NOT ALLOW THE ROUTER TO WANDER FROM THE BASEPLATE..(this will screw up your template) Remove your new template from the baseplate, and the other material. If all went well, you now have a template you can use repeatedly!

To cut the window in your table top, secure the template to the top in the desired location. Put the collar onto the guide bushing, and set the depth of cut to the thickness of the baseplate. (It may be a good idea to test on some scrap first!) When it's dialed in, cut around the perimeter. That's the first step. Then, remove your guide bushing , and mount a bushing that's say, 1/4" to 3/8" wider. With this bushing installed, cut right through the top. You may do it in two passes if necessary. The result should be a window that's the perfect size for your baseplate, with a ledge to support it! Some minor sanding may be needed for a perfect fit.


----------



## billybob66 (Mar 9, 2007)

harrysin said:


> Damn it Bj., I was expecting some NEW method that even Template Tom hadn't come up with.


Here's another way....

Purchase an "inlay bushing kit", consisting if a brass bushing and a slip on collar. Lee Valley sells them. Also, you'll need a guide bushing with an O.D. 1/4" to 3/8" larger, and a collar depth of less than 1/4". Take your table insert, and fasten to a piece of 1/4" MDF or hardboard with screws or double sided tape. Fasten this to a larger sheet of sacrificial material. Drill a 1/4" hole anywhere along the perimeter of where the hardboard meets the baseplate, as a starter hole for the routing. Using a 1/4"straight bit, and the guide bushing (without the collar), rout around the baseplate, until you've cut out a "window". DO NOT ALLOW THE ROUTER TO WANDER FROM THE BASEPLATE..(this will screw up your template) Remove your new template from the baseplate, and the other material. If all went well, you now have a template you can use repeatedly!

To cut the window in your table top, secure the template to the top in the desired location. Put the collar onto the guide bushing, and set the depth of cut to the thickness of the baseplate. (It may be a good idea to test on some scrap first!) When it's dialed in, cut around the perimeter. That's the first step. Then, remove your guide bushing , and mount a bushing that's say, 1/4" to 3/8" wider. With this bushing installed, cut right through the top. You may do it in two passes if necessary. The result should be a window that's the perfect size for your baseplate, with a ledge to support it! Some minor sanding may be needed for a perfect fit.


----------



## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> . . .
> But I will say you need to take one more hard look at the BenchDog way,,,
> no math needed ,,,and it's done with one bit and a jig saw,,,,It's hard to make any install errors..
> The pattern bit is the key,,,  no templates needed just some sticks and some double sided carpet tape ...
> ...


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Here's a link that will work  plus one more

http://www.benchdog.com/faq-installprolift.cfm

http://wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_20.html
http://wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_21.html



http://wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_18.html

===========


----------



## tcozadoh (Oct 2, 2009)

*I used more or less the Bench Dog Way*

I used more or less the Bench Dog Way. I put my Alum. insert on my table top. Double sided taped 4 MDF strips around the insert. Before taping the MDF to the table I glued 4 layers of paper on the edge in 2 places on 2 of the boards. These paper pieces were about 3/8" long. One of these boards on long side and one on the short side of the insert. This amounted to being speed bumps for the router bit bearings. This causes the routed opening to be a few thousand oversize except where the speed bumps are.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Peter I ran into the same issues. On page 3 you can see where I tried , and on page 4 Mike figured out where I went wrong . 

I had a hell of a time making the copy because I couldn't keep the router guide tight to the plate as I was going around the perimeter.
I could have fixed my template with bondo and a bit of sanding but I ended up buying the template from Incra .
Funny enough though , using there template I ended up with a bit of play so I may have to put some of that foil tape on the bearing of the router bit in order to make the opening a bit smaller .
Because of the wide radiuses of the Incra plate , I couldn't just tape mdf around its perimeter to make the hole

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/46508-houston-we-have-problem-3.html


----------

