# router plate warped.



## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

I know theres a lot of threads at the moment about warped tables and plates.
I dont need a new table, but my Kreg plate has definitely sagged.

Having spent out on their leveling plates and making sure the edges are in line with the table cutout, the sag is very pronounced.
Is there any known cure? 

Or any cheap options? having just spent my pocket money on a new bandsaw, theres not a lot left in the kitty.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I had a problem with one half of my fence being a little thicker than the other. I called Kreg and told them about the problem and they mailed me another free of charge. I know you live in another part of the world but I think they will do the same for you.

PS- How's that for cheap?


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

PS- How's that for cheap?[/QUOTE said:


> Thats my kind of price.
> 
> I'd better take a couple pics first to back up the claim.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

It needs to be returned and replaced. Kreg is a pretty responsible company and should replace it. Let us know how they handled it, we consumers have to stick together.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

sunnybob said:


> I know theres a lot of threads at the moment about warped tables and plates.
> I dont need a new table, but my Kreg plate has definitely sagged.
> 
> Having spent out on their leveling plates and making sure the edges are in line with the table cutout, the sag is very pronounced.
> ...


composite plate???
if so they do that...
you may have to make up truss arrangement for it to keep it from doing it again w/ your replacement...


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

I bought the plate well before I knew anything about router tables and their problems.
With 20/20 hindsight i think I would have bought a cast alloy one, but It'll be a while before the treasurer releases any more of my pocket money, having just told her my bandsaw " was it" for spending..


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Bob one of the reasons I don`t lock my plate down in the table is so I can take the router out when I`m not using it so that the weight isn`t hanging on it. You can always try taking it out and suspending it on the face, upside down i.e., and let it bend back the other way. It will take time but if it bent one way it will bend back again and be at least close to flat again.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

If Stick is right & the plate is plastic then you can get out cheap.
X screwing some ground flat aluminum to it.
That will pull the cup out of it.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Bob one of the reasons I don`t lock my plate down in the table is so I can take the router out when I`m not using it so that the weight isn`t hanging on it. You can always try taking it out and suspending it on the face, upside down i.e., and let it bend back the other way. It will take time but if it bent one way it will bend back again and be at least close to flat again.


I have learned from this post that I need to check my plate for sag and take the router out when I am not using it.


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## herrwood (Apr 19, 2014)

I have the grizzly table with the plastic and put some weights on it and it straightened out. And now do as Don suggested on remove the router when not in use.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Not happy with the idea I have to keep leaving the router on top of the table. Thats letting the makers get away with producing stuff thats not fit for purpose. If it doesnt say that in the instructions, you shouldnt have to do it.

Apart from which i made a big router table to use as a layout bench in between routing. Not prepared to lose that space because i dont have enough of it anyway.

I will see what i see today, and decide if I can brace it or just get a cast plate. i will complain to kreg though, I dont believe in moaning at home and not to the bosses face.


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## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

Bob you said there's not a lot left in the kitty, just get a different kitty, one that's full.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

I'm not brave enough to tell this kitty she's no longer wanted!

Also past my sell by date to go hunting another one.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

I've done some measuring today,
as you stand in front of the table, theres a dip in to the middle from both sides. At its widest, the gap is 0.35mm (about 14 thou) doesnt sound a lot, but its enough to tilt a small piece of wood and make the cut offset.

Also, and I find this odd, to the right of the centre hole about half way between the hole and the edge, going front to back, theres a hump in the middle. 
So its out of true in both planes. My small box sections are going up and down before reaching the cutter.

Looks like its time to sell the grandkids for a new (flat) plate


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## herrwood (Apr 19, 2014)

I do agree it is space and time wasting to keep removing the router. I am not doing a lot of router work lately so it works for me. The best solution is the solid metal plates and sometimes you just have to spend the extra $$.
I do agree manufactures do not get enough complaints on problems like this.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

I had sagging with my home-made acrylic plate. When I was shopping for replacement, I noticed that very little finger pressure would slightly flex the plastic plates on display... even the more costly ones like the Kreg. I finally found an aluminum one for hardly any more money and am totally pleased with it. This was an issue with a 2 1/4 horse router, I imagine it must be even worse with the 3+ hp ones.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

herrwood said:


> I do agree it is space and time wasting to keep removing the router. I am not doing a lot of router work lately so it works for me. The best solution is the solid metal plates and sometimes you just have to spend the extra $$.
> I do agree manufactures do not get enough complaints on problems like this.


 You know...
I have a relatively minor issue with the dust extraction on my new bandsaw. I told the supplier saying "i know youve had lots of complaints because the forums have been moaning for years... )
they came straight back, told me they had never had a complaint before, wanted more details, I'm now up to product development manager level, they are taking everything very seriously.
Why dont all the people who have problems talk to the suppliers, instead of just whinging on forums?

How are we ever going to get better service and equipment if the makers think what they are doing is ok?


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Has anybody got an email address for Kreg? the online form requires a USA phone number. It wont recognise my international one.

A straight email address for customer service is what I need. Thanks


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## firstmuller (Aug 28, 2014)

It should be [email protected]
Allen


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

That did it thanks.


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## herrwood (Apr 19, 2014)

sunnybob said:


> You know...
> I have a relatively minor issue with the dust extraction on my new bandsaw. I told the supplier saying "i know youve had lots of complaints because the forums have been moaning for years... )
> they came straight back, told me they had never had a complaint before, wanted more details, I'm now up to product development manager level, they are taking everything very seriously.
> Why dont all the people who have problems talk to the suppliers, instead of just whinging on forums?
> ...


I do agree and am guilty myself of not complaining. 
I think we are so use to being screwed by manufactures we just accept it without a fight.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I checked my Kreg router plate today and it sags in the middle. I have a PC 2 1/4 HP router. I took the router off and the plate is almost straight. Problems problems, it seems it's never ending.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

TenGees said:


> I had sagging with my home-made acrylic plate. When I was shopping for replacement, I noticed that very little finger pressure would slightly flex the plastic plates on display... even the more costly ones like the Kreg. I finally found an aluminum one for hardly any more money and am totally pleased with it. This was an issue with a 2 1/4 horse router, I imagine it must be even worse with the 3+ hp ones.


Paul where did you buy the aluminum plate?


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Well Kreg customer service are on the ball.

They came straight back asking for an address to send the replacement to. No ifs or buts, no problem with international shipping either.

Full marks for service. Just have a doubt as to whether a replacement will also warp or not.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Robot Check

*"Strong 3/8" plate"* what the heck does _that_ mean? 

Is that plastic, pot metal, Aluminum?


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Robot Check
> 
> *"Strong 3/8" plate"* what the heck does _that_ mean?
> 
> Is that plastic, pot metal, Aluminum?


Dan
The reviewers all indicate it's a firm plastic


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

sunnybob said:


> Well Kreg customer service are on the ball.
> 
> They came straight back asking for an address to send the replacement to. No ifs or buts, no problem with international shipping either.
> 
> Full marks for service. Just have a doubt as to whether a replacement will also warp or not.


Good deal Bob. Now I have to call them about my plate. I am like you in thinking another plate will sag.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Great suggestion about complaining to the manufacturer about shoddy stuff. I can't tell you how annoying it is to have a 14 inch Delta band saw and NOT be able to get the 6 inch riser block. What kind of company is it that abandons its customers? The positive side of posting brand problems on this and other sites is that it chokes off sales and prevents some people from buying mediocre products. That the companies seem not to care about customers' is really a product of uninvolved, bean counting management that have never picked up a tool.

Kudos to the likes of Laguna, Bosch, etc, whose management really value their customers, and pooh to the corporate kings who bought out and exploited Delta, Stanley, DeWalt and many other brands' once shiny reputations.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Thanks guys, I have been trying to find the 6 inch riser block for my 14 inch Delta bandsaw, model 28-276. None to be had, have to buy another brand and have it altered to fit. What kind of service is that?

Well, I just finished sending off an email to Delta that point out that when anyone asks about buying a Delta product, they are usually warned away, and that the parts issue is a big deal and often cited when potential Delta buyers are directed to other brands. I somehow doubt much will come of it, but maybe we could all let then know, we know they're not on our side.


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## bobrose60 (Jan 29, 2016)

Hi Everyone! I'm new to the group. I have to say the information is FANTASTIC!
I recently built my first table. I kept looking for plates, but they all seemed to be cost prohibitive for my budget. I did however take a trip to my local scrap yard. Right now scrap prices are in the toilet. I found a 2'x3'x 5/16" piece of 8020 aluminum. It weighed 29lbs, of which I was charged the bargain price of 1.00 per pound! I cut it to size with a skill saw, in about 3 shallow passes, using wd-40 as a lubricant, routed the edges (routes beautifully), and rounded the corners by hand with a file.
I then drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes in each corner, and used set screws for levelers. In the table I put rare earth magnets for the set screws to contact. The center hole was done with forstner bits, after drilling holes for the router base (counter sunk in the top). I located the center by chucking up a piece of a 1/4" drill in the router and turning by hand to leave a sort of center punch mark in the plate for the hole location. 
I have enough material to make at least 4 plates. Yes, its time consuming, but economical. And I have my doubts about this one warping!
I hope to "meet" all of you enthusiasts in time. Its obvious I will learn a GREAT deal from this forum group........... Bob


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Welcome to the forum Bob.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Bob; welcome!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

welcome and well done Bob...


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

bobrose60 said:


> Hi Everyone! I'm new to the group. I have to say the information is FANTASTIC!
> I recently built my first table. I kept looking for plates, but they all seemed to be cost prohibitive for my budget. I did however take a trip to my local scrap yard. Right now scrap prices are in the toilet. I found a 2'x3'x 5/16" piece of 8020 aluminum. It weighed 29lbs, of which I was charged the bargain price of 1.00 per pound! I cut it to size with a skill saw, in about 3 shallow passes, using wd-40 as a lubricant, routed the edges (routes beautifully), and rounded the corners by hand with a file.
> I then drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes in each corner, and used set screws for levelers. In the table I put rare earth magnets for the set screws to contact. The center hole was done with forstner bits, after drilling holes for the router base (counter sunk in the top). I located the center by chucking up a piece of a 1/4" drill in the router and turning by hand to leave a sort of center punch mark in the plate for the hole location.
> I have enough material to make at least 4 plates. Yes, its time consuming, but economical. And I have my doubts about this one warping!
> I hope to "meet" all of you enthusiasts in time. Its obvious I will learn a GREAT deal from this forum group........... Bob


That is a heck of a first post Bob. Thanks and welcome.


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## bobrose60 (Jan 29, 2016)

Sorry, I guess it was a little wordy for a first.....


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

bobrose60 said:


> Sorry, I guess it was a little wordy for a first.....


Not for what you were describing...nice job.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

...we _like_ wordy...and pictures!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bobrose60 said:


> Sorry, I guess it was a little wordy for a first.....


no way...
the solution is what it is all about...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

bobrose60 said:


> Hi Everyone! I'm new to the group. I have to say the information is FANTASTIC!
> I recently built my first table. I kept looking for plates, but they all seemed to be cost prohibitive for my budget. I did however take a trip to my local scrap yard. Right now scrap prices are in the toilet. I found a 2'x3'x 5/16" piece of 8020 aluminum. It weighed 29lbs, of which I was charged the bargain price of 1.00 per pound! I cut it to size with a skill saw, in about 3 shallow passes, using wd-40 as a lubricant, routed the edges (routes beautifully), and rounded the corners by hand with a file.
> I then drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes in each corner, and used set screws for levelers. In the table I put rare earth magnets for the set screws to contact. The center hole was done with forstner bits, after drilling holes for the router base (counter sunk in the top). I located the center by chucking up a piece of a 1/4" drill in the router and turning by hand to leave a sort of center punch mark in the plate for the hole location.
> I have enough material to make at least 4 plates. Yes, its time consuming, but economical. And I have my doubts about this one warping!
> I hope to "meet" all of you enthusiasts in time. Its obvious I will learn a GREAT deal from this forum group........... Bob


Nice description. I think you can count on learning a lot here. I have posted this before and it may or may not apply to you, but many tell me it is useful. 

Welcome to the Forum. Glad you have joined the fun. The following has been posted before so those who have read it before may wish to skip it.

These are the 17+ things that really helped me get going with woodworking. Hope it helps you as much as they did me.

1) If you are using Firefox browser, get a free add on YouTube download helper app. Search for videos on all aspects of woodworking that interest you and collect them. I watch a video on the topic of whatever project, or phase of a project, on which I'm currently working. VERY helpful to see it done a few times before you try it yourself. 

I use a YouTube downloader that’s free using the tools menu/add ons. It puts a download button under the video on YouTube. Click the button, name the file (I always label it according to the tool or job it works on. For example, anything to do with routing, I label as "Router", which clusters all the similar videos together in Windows Explorer. All my videos go into a single folder. I sometimes watch woodworking video while on planes, which triggers some interesting conversations.

2) There are hundreds of used books on woodworking on Amazon. Order some on basic tools and woodworking. You'll need to learn to tune up saws and other tools, and books are how I learned to do these things. It wasn't until I tuned up my saws that good results began to happen. My saws cut exactly 90 and 45, or any angle I need now. Two books I really love are Bill Hylton’s “Woodworking with the Router,” and “The Joint Book” by Terrie Noll. The Noll Book is a really concise and heavily illustrated reference with great hints for making every variety of joints. There are lots of good table saw guides.

3) Make some first projects with MDF before using more expensive wood. Make the same project several times with improved skill, material and workmanship each time. Great learning method.

4) Consider making cabinets or stands for each of your power tools as first projects. My first cabinet was of MDF and my sander and all my sanding gear still sit on and in it. I can't tell you how much confidence I got from building space efficient shop stands and now, all the tools in my smallish shop are on casters and easily moved around for use and cleanup. Put doors on every cabinet to reduce wandering dust. BTW, if you add casters, use two non swivels on the back and two locking casters on the front--make sure the lock secures both the wheel and the swivel so your carts don't skip around in use. My shop made stands also take up far less floor space than the spread-legged ones that came with the tools, which makes it far easier to move tools around in a compact shop--which is necessary to clean out the insidious sawdust.

5) Many of the woodworking supply stores in the US (and I imagine overseas) have demos on weekends. Attend and get to know the people you meet there. They can turn you on to sources of wood and you can get some nice help and begin a friendship or two. Don’t forget to talk with the employees as well. At our local Rockler, several of the employees are serious and experienced woodworkers and always eager to help. I’ve also found some of the big box stores employ a few very experienced wood workers, carpenters, electricians and plumbers. You just have to start a brief conversation, if they seem knowledgeable, ask them about what they did before they worked at the store.

6) Among your first purchases should be some form of dust control. Many woods are proven carcinogens and can quickly damage your lungs. Dust collection information is on this site. I have a 4-inch system installed to collect sawdust, but I also have and recommend a dust mask with a small fan that pulls in pressurized air that not only keeps dust out, but also keeps my glasses from fogging. Got mine at Rockler and keep a couple of sets of rechargable AA batteries ready to use. For cutting just a piece or two, I keep surgical style disposable masks handy. I also built a box with 20x20 filter inside and a fan that pulls air through to remove fine airborne dust over time. You can even tape a filter to the back of a fan in a pinch. Don't take your mask off right after cutting or cleaning up because there is always dust floating around for awhile. If you start coughing, it means you need to pay very close attention to dust control and wearing a mask. It takes months to recover from a bout of working unprotected with MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard) without a mask. 

7) Take your sweet time with projects, there's no rush and it is easy to have a project nearly complete, then make a careless, quick cut or other error that ruins all your good work. In most cases, it is best to fit pieces by putting them in place and marking rather than just measuring and cutting. Cut a bit over and shave it down (or use a good block plane) for an exact fit. A good block plane, nice and sharp, is a basic tool you'll use more often than you think.

8) Buy the very best table saw you can manage. It will quickly become the most used tool in your shop. A little debt could move you up a notch and help you produce better results and cut thicker wood. Get the best tools you can afford. Read the reviews and ask questions on the forum before you choose. To me, it is worth it to use credit if necessary to move up the quality scale. 

There are models called hybrid saws that have the mechanical works attached to the cabinet rather than the top, which is good. I recently replaced my old contractor saw with a Laguna Fusion saw. My shop is not wired for 220, so I was happy with the 110volt, 1 3/4 hp motor. Many forum members have been very happy with less expensive models, Grizzly for example, but I prefer the Laguna for its amazingly flat table and extensions and its fit and finish (and reasonable price). Learn to set up and tune up your saws and tools (books and videos show you how) because you can’t make anything great if your tools are even slightly off.

The best safety device is paying very close attention to what you’re doing with a saw, but a close second is a MicroJig Gripper, which lets you control wood on the saw while keeping your fingers safely away from the blade. There is a fancy and a simpler model, either of which is good.

9) If you can, get an electrician to add a 220 outlet or two to your shop. If you set up in the garage, you may be able to use the electrical outlet for the dryer. There are many tools that require 220 volts to work best, and many used 220 v tools are available at good prices--if you feel comfortable buying used. Another tool source is to visit estate sales. Every once in awhile, you find tools no one else in the family desires or knows the value of, so you can get them cheap.

If you don't have a router yet, I have come to like the Triton TRA001, which is perfect for table use, particularly since you can adjust height quite precisely from the above the table with its built in lift. That feature really saves my knees. However, it is just too heavy for this old guy to control freehand. I really like the Bosch 1617 EVSPK for hand held use. There is a newer model that has a light and switch on the handle that costs more. Both come in a kit with fixed and plunge base. It has many accessories available that are very well made. Others like different brands, but Mike recently checked in on the topic and compared PorterCable and I thought the Bosch came out a bit ahead. I prefer the raising and lowering mechanism on the Bosch with its precise micro adjustment knob. The Bosch fixed base can be used as a lift in a table. The books on routers and other topics are really useful for understanding some of the arcane woodworking terms associated with this must have tool..

10) When it comes to router bits, try to stick to the half inch shafts with carbide cutting tips. These are astonishingly sharp. Bosch and Freud are easily available at HD and Lowes, but there are lots of other excellent brands including the well liked Whiteside and Sommerfield bits. Be careful of those ultra sharp tips, which are fragile. I'd suggest storing them in one of those foam lined cases you can get pretty cheap from Harbor Freight, loosely packed so they don't click together. A few of the cheap bits don’t have carbide tips. Spiral bits are sometimes used to cut grooves. Carbide spiral bits are both expensive and fragile and it takes very little abuse to ruin them. Many use high speed steel bits for that purpose.

I buy bits as I need them and don't much care for the kits. However, someone recently suggested getting a kit to start out with, then gradually replacing only the bits you actually use with top grade bits. This makes some sense to me, but stick to the half inch shafts if you can manage it--most kits I’ve seen have 1/4 inch shafts. I would avoid huge sets with odd bits you are unlikely ever to use. A few standard bits most of us have are the round over bits. You can get them in different sizes, but mostly you’re likely to use the quarter, half and ¾ sizes. Another bit that is very useful for cabinetry is the half inch rabbiting bit with a bearing. Some come with a changable bearing that allows you to change the size of the rabbit. Doing fancier stuff makes those cash register numbers spin because those door bit sets are pricey! 

One more thing about using bits, don’t try to take off too much wood in one pass. Make several passes taking a little more wood with each pass. Pay attention to the grain of the wood (that is covered in most books on routing) with a final pass just shaving and making for a very smooth finish. My personal rule is to cut no more than 1/8 th of an inch per pass. The larger the bit, the slower you should set the speed control. 

11) The most useful item I own for my saws is a Wixey digital angle gauge, which allows me to set up all my saws to exact angles (eg: 90 degrees to the table). It wasn't until I started being meticulous about this that my projects started working out right. These are about $30 on Amazon.

I have a Bosch 10 inch compound sliding miter saw that I also love, but use it mainly for cross cutting long pieces, but its ability to cut at precise angles is wonderful. 

12) Pocket Hole jig and construction. Although there are many ways to make cabinets and face frames, I have found that pocket hole screws have really made making them easier. Just remember, coarse threads for soft woods, fine thread for hard woods, and I find the square head easier to drive correctly than the Phillips type. My jig is mounted on a chunk of plywood that I can clamp down. The thing makes a lot of sawdust so dust collection is a good idea. I also find that with careful, exact 90 degree end cuts to the wood, the pocket hole approach produces absolutely square cabinets and face frames. You’ll need a couple of face clamps and a Kreg right angle clamp if you use pocket hole joinery. There are many helpful videos on this jig.

13) Make a table saw sled (lots of YouTube videos on how to) for perfect 90 degree cuts on your table saw. I had a little more money than time, so I bought the sled Rockler makes that has a swinging fence and a very precise angle scale. I love that thing and set up a special shelf right next to my table saw to store it and keep it flat. Cross cuts on the sled are wonderfully exact and it prevents most tear out, the ragged or splintered area at the end of a cut. The sled is also a much safer way to cut short pieces as well. You set the sled to a precise 90 or 45 angle using a drafting square. 

Most saws come with a miter gauge, but I prefer one of the precision gauges. I have an Osborne gauge I really like, but many here like Incra’s gauge. Precision is important with gauges.

You will read a LOT about jigs here and in your books and videos. Jigs, accurate T squares, a good straightedge are all incredibly useful for producing good work. The more I venture into really good hard wood construction, the more I appreciate how jigs produce accurate results without wasting expensive wood through mis-cuts.

14) I had a lot of problems with tear out at first, but most of that stopped when I started using a sacrificial backup block to push the last bit of a piece through the router. I often use square pieces of MDF (medium density fiberboard) because it is cheap and stays flat. When it gets torn up, I just cut off a chunk and use what’s left. Really helps! You can do the same with any piece by putting a backer board behind where the cut goes--you cut through the piece first, the backer last. You may also want to use feather boards to hold boards in correct alignment to the fence and blade or bit.

Zero Clearance Inserts for the table saw: On the table saw, buy or make blank inserts to make zero clearance inserts (see YouTube for how to do it), this really helps make great, tear-out free cuts. I also found that I wanted to push that last quarter inch through the bit too fast, now I feed at a steady pace all through the cut. 

15) Clamps: The joke is you can never have too many clamps. The ones I use most are about $3 each at Harbor Freight, about 9 inch F clamps (they look like an F). I have 18 of them at a couple of bucks each. The same source has longer versions up to 24 inches and I keep 4 to 6 of the 18 and 24 inch models. I have four sets of two of 24 to 60 inch (Jet) parallel clamps for making really square cabinets and other items where holding things square for glue up is important. The better the quality of bar clamps, the thicker and stronger the bar will be. I’ve all but given up on plastic clamps, but have a few that look like scissors for lightly holding things together or down. Depending on what you’re making, a few wooden hand screw clamps could be useful, including holding small parts for safer routing. I recently added a couple of special steel C clamps that have a 12 inch open throat. Very handy item! 

16) Hand planes and hand tools: Learning to use these is something of an art, as is proper sharpening and setting of their blades. There are lots of woodworkers who really love working with hand tools, most will suggest you buy used and clean and tune them up--which is actually quite fun. Chisels are important particularly if you are making furniture. Sharpening chisels is a basic skill involving many ultra fine grits of sandpaper, ultra flat surfaces, maybe diamond grit sharpening stones—arcane stuff, but anything less than a razor sharp chisel is pretty useless. Don’t scrimp on chisels, cheap ones get dull fast. Look up sharpening methods on YouTube, it takes patience but not much money to work sharp. I recently bought a diamond sharpening device with diamond dust imbedded in a nickel steel plate. It has small cut out ovals so the metal grit doesn't clog the diamond surface. Use these sparingly and use one of the specialty diamond sharpening lubricants with it. I use this for quick sharpening touch ups, just 4-5 strokes will do. It’s a little easier to use than the sand paper method, which I save for major sharpening tasks.

17) If you have a dedicated shop space, take the time and trouble to insulate it. You will enjoy working in it much more if you're not roasting or freezing. I recently installed a middle sized window AC unit through a shop shed wall for relief from our desert summer and it is now even more of a pleasure to be out there. Insulation also holds in heat during winter. A couple of heaters bring the temp up, but just one keeps it comfortable after that. Cold fingers are clumsy, not good around spinning blades!

Finally, Stick suggests that you use the Forum’s archives when you have questions. There is a wealth of answers to any questions you might have. He also cautions about using one word search terms, which can return massive amounts of information. Here’s the link: https://archive.org/

Woodworking is not necessarily a cheap hobby. Wood can be costly, so are decent tools, And there's hardware, stuff for jigs, dust collection and on and on as you get going. My good wood supplier is 60 miles away, so I often work in decent local pine and plywood with as many layers as I can find. I found some decent Maple faced plywood at HD. Before long you will hear how superior Baltic Birch is to the best of HD, but you have to ferret out a decent source. Chinese made birch ply is generally no match for the real stuff, which, when you cut it shows no voids inside. 

This has run pretty long, but I think the information is helpful for someone new to the hobby. The suggestions represent a LOT of trial and error.


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## bobrose60 (Jan 29, 2016)

All so true. And than you for the tips!
Hand planes have become favorites of mine, large and small. While they are very old, they get the job done nicely. 
We recently added a sub panel in the garage, along with a generator inlet. There was only 2 outlets in the whole area. Now there a 2 20a circuits and 2 15a circuits, as well as a 50a 220v (for my welder). Some of the motors on my tools can be wired for either 110 or 220 (such as compressor and cut off machine), and draw much less with 220. And yes, I am definitely looking forward to the education the members here can supply!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

bobrose60 said:


> Hi Everyone! I'm new to the group. I have to say the information is FANTASTIC!
> I recently built my first table. I kept looking for plates, but they all seemed to be cost prohibitive for my budget. I did however take a trip to my local scrap yard. Right now scrap prices are in the toilet. I found a 2'x3'x 5/16" piece of 8020 aluminum. It weighed 29lbs, of which I was charged the bargain price of 1.00 per pound! I cut it to size with a skill saw, in about 3 shallow passes, using wd-40 as a lubricant, routed the edges (routes beautifully), and rounded the corners by hand with a file.
> I then drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes in each corner, and used set screws for levelers. In the table I put rare earth magnets for the set screws to contact. The center hole was done with forstner bits, after drilling holes for the router base (counter sunk in the top). I located the center by chucking up a piece of a 1/4" drill in the router and turning by hand to leave a sort of center punch mark in the plate for the hole location.
> I have enough material to make at least 4 plates. Yes, its time consuming, but economical. And I have my doubts about this one warping!
> I hope to "meet" all of you enthusiasts in time. Its obvious I will learn a GREAT deal from this forum group........... Bob


Welcome to the forum Bob . Great work with the router plate


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## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Bob. Excellent job on the router plate, it will outlast us.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

hawkeye10 said:


> Paul where did you buy the aluminum plate?


I got an Incra top with plate for $120. It was a one-of clearance though. It was drilled for a four screw system but a friend of mine machined in holes for a three screw system for me. This works for both my routers, a old Craftsman fixed and a Mastercraft plunge. I got the top from All-in-One Woodtools in Mississauga just before they moved to Oakville. Pretty sure it was his only one.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

TenGees said:


> I got an Incra top with plate for $120. It was a one-of clearance though. It was drilled for a four screw system but a friend of mine machined in holes for a three screw system for me. This works for both my routers, a old Craftsman fixed and a Mastercraft plunge. I got the top from All-in-One Woodtools in Mississauga just before they moved to Oakville. Pretty sure it was his only one.


You have the M/C plunge??? I had one as well and used it sporadically for about two years. Went to turn it on one day and nothing. I couldn't find out what was wrong unfortunately. But it was really quite good while it lasted. 

Is yours holding up OK?


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

cocobolo1 said:


> You have the M/C plunge??? I had one as well and used it sporadically for about two years. Went to turn it on one day and nothing. I couldn't find out what was wrong unfortunately. But it was really quite good while it lasted.
> 
> Is yours holding up OK?


Keith, mine is working fine so far but I don't use it all that much. A friend bought it for me for doing a small job. I probably wouldn't have chosen a Mastercraft because of how useless I found their scrollsaw to be. I returned two that didn't work out of the box. I had to fight with them to return them, they wanted to send them in for service!


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

TenGees said:


> Keith, mine is working fine so far but I don't use it all that much. A friend bought it for me for doing a small job. I probably wouldn't have chosen a Mastercraft because of how useless I found their scrollsaw to be. I returned two that didn't work out of the box. I had to fight with them to return them, they wanted to send them in for service!


Paul, it sounds like we've had similar experiences with various m/c tools. For the most part their stuff has been good. I have three miter saws up to the 10" dual compound, and I have put them through hell. So far, so good. I had trouble with one of their "precision saws". But got that exchanged no trouble. I used that one a lot over the years and it finally died of old age...but it didn't owe me anything. Especially for the $30 price!
Replaced it with a similar item from PC for $130. That saw has its' own problems.
Haven't had a m/c scroll...did have a nice Delta which I hardly ever used, so sold that one.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

cocobolo1 said:


> ...Haven't had a m/c scroll...did have a nice Delta which I hardly ever used, so sold that one.


Keith, I got a used Delta after that scrollsaw experience and I'm totally happy with it. I think I'll stick to non-motorized tools from MasterCraft.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

TenGees said:


> Keith, I got a used Delta after that scrollsaw experience and I'm totally happy with it. I think I'll stick to non-motorized tools from MasterCraft.


Good one! I think everyone has truckloads of those. But I did pick up a 26 gallon compressor a short while ago (m/c). Can't be beat for the sale price.


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