# Heavy Wood Rack



## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I need to build a large wood rack. It is going to be mounted in a garage on the side where I park my car. I need it not to stick out too far so I think wood is out. 

I plan to use 1 1/2 inch steel tubing. I plan to make the arms 13 inches. I am going to use four 8 foot long vertical tubes with 6 arms sticking out. The first arm is going to be 4 feet high to allow plywood to be put on edge. The vertical tubes will be staggered so the first 2 will be closer than the rest to allow shorts boards to fit. This is all in my head right now so it will develop as I build it next week.

I am interested in any ideas.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Lee 
After you get it out of your head, show some pictures


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Its all about the weight you rack is going to need to support... good welds are a must..a bit of a upward lean for the shelves and most importantly securing the rack to the wall!!!
Plus... I"m not sure, but bare metal racks may tend to stain the bottom boards...


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I plan to paint the rack before mounting it to the wall. The wall is brick so I plan to use masonry screws plus one arm of each vertical post will be on the cement floor to help stabilize it. The floor arm will keep the plywood up off the floor. It will take about 70 feet of tubing. I hope the rack will hold a couple thousand pounds.

I will take lots of pictures. Do you want building pictures or just finished pictures?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Folks always appreciate pics around here... might even inspire a few souls

I've been doing the same thing more or less lately. Trying to consolidate my roughsawn inventory. Its not that I dont' have enough space in the basement, I was taking up too much of what I have for the shop and wood!!!


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

My racks take a pretty fair load, not sure just how heavy, but have had no problems with the racks being made of wood.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I have no problem with wood. In fact I would like to use my new (old) floor Mortiser machine to build the rack I just bought. To get the kind of strength I need it would need to be made of 4x4 material which sticks out too far for me. Plus the bracing would eat up more top space giving me less wood storage. I have a wall which only has 14 inches to the side of the garage. Steel will give the strength in less stick out space. The steel will also cost less. But with that said I would use wood if I thought I could build what I need.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Not happy with the idea of masonry screws, Lee. Can you run the verticals all the way from floor to ceiling? Anchoring securely at the floor and into the ceiling framing would be my first and only choice.
Mind you if the two ends were solid or 'H' framed so the unit could NOT pull out from the wall...
Another thing; having the shelving adjustable would also be non-negotiable for me. 
What's wrong with factory made stuff? Tons of this stuff floating around used!
https://www.sjf.com/cantilever_rack.html


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## MYB506 (Dec 5, 2012)

I put a rack up in my shop about 20 years ago and it hasn't failed. I drilled holes at a 15 degree angle into 2X4's to accept 3/4 metal conduit and used lag screws to secure the 2X4 to the 2X4 wall studs. The conduit slips in and out so you can adjust as necessary.


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## Danman1957 (Mar 14, 2009)

I just built a traditional wood lumber rack from 2 x 4s and it is plenty solid, yes the brackets take up some space, but that is where I store small stuff such as dowels and a few pieces of steel. If you are going to use only steel tubing welded then I hope you're a good welder, and I suggest using 3/16 or 1/4 wall tubing. If you use any thinner, I recommend using braces.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"Not happy with the idea of masonry screws, Lee"
-Me
Sorry, I should have explained that better. You said it was "brick' Ithink(?)...
I never _ever_ trust any kind of anchor in any kind of 'brick' except for light loads pulling only vertically; _concrete is a whole 'nuther story!_
Deep inserts into concrete aren't coming out until the wall comes down.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Dan I think you are bringing up a good point again and I will look at attaching to the cement floor. Dan the plan is to use a foot on each vertical tube to help stabilize the rack. Not much to tie in at the top.

I saw the pipe method on the internet where you drill a hole and put a pipe through. I could weld 13 inch pipe arms to a piece of plate steel and push the pipe through a hole in a 2x4. I like my method better.

I plan to use a very small steel brace cut on a 45 degree angle under each arm using a chop saw.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

coxhaus said:


> I plan to paint the rack before mounting it to the wall. The wall is brick so I plan to use masonry screws plus one arm of each vertical post will be on the cement floor to help stabilize it. The floor arm will keep the plywood up off the floor. It will take about 70 feet of tubing. I hope the rack will hold a couple thousand pounds.
> 
> I will take lots of pictures. Do you want building pictures or just finished pictures?


If it has to hold a *ton* like you suggest I would be afraid that the brick wall will come down instead of the anchors pulling out of the wall when it dose decide to come down.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I guess you guys realize the rack is setting on cement with a 13 inch foot. The load is on the feet of the rack.

PS
The steel brace will be on the top on the foot as it cannot be under.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

DaninVan said:


> Mind you if the two ends were solid or 'H' framed so the unit could NOT pull out from the wall...
> 
> 
> What's wrong with factory made stuff? Tons of this stuff floating around used!
> https://www.sjf.com/cantilever_rack.html


Dan I am not sure what you mean by solid or H framed?

The factory made heavy stuff will not fit in my small space.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*'H' Frame*



coxhaus said:


> Dan I am not sure what you mean by solid or H framed?
> 
> The factory made heavy stuff will not fit in my small space.


I get that, Lee, but steal their design ideas! They had those professionally engineered and you can bet they aren't shy about overbuilding.
By H frame I just meant a complete floor to ceiling rectangle and braced at the midpoint; diagonals would be even better. Pardon the pun but the intent of the rectangle frames is to stop the rack from 'wracking'.

Which direction does the ceiling framing run, relative to the length of the wall rack? 
_Mike makes an excellent point about tearing the bricks apart!!!_
Brick walls are great in compression but terrible in tension.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Tipsy*



coxhaus said:


> I guess you guys realize the rack is setting on cement with a 13 inch foot. The load is on the feet of the rack.
> 
> PS
> The steel brace will be on the top on the foot as it cannot be under.


Lee; the problem is essentially the same as tall chests of drawers and ovens toppling forward when the ctr. of gravity is moved forward for whatever reason. If you look at pics of the industrial storage racks you'll notice that 
1)... the bottom horizontal member is massive in comparison to the other structural members, as is the attachment to the verticals
2)...the front to back length exceeds the length of the shelf members.
In other words the tipping force can never exceed the ability of the foot to restrain it.
Probably badly worded but if it's not clear what I meant, perhaps some one else can offer a better description.
Also, you might want to include jacking bolts in the 'feet' to allow for levelling the supports, and also making sure the weight is transferred evenly everywhere. 

There was a fairly recent very tragic accident in a lumberyard here in BC. A stacked pile of lifts of lumber toppled on a worker crushing him. I don't recall hearing why the stack was unstable(?).


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I think this was the incident...
https://globalnews.ca/news/2473780/two-dead-in-new-westminster-lumber-yard-accident/
Two workers killed, not one.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Dan the way I read it the wood fell off a fork lift.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Just in Case*



coxhaus said:


> Dan the way I read it the wood fell off a fork lift.


At the time of the accident, it wasn't clear exactly what happened; the fork lift driver reported the incident, and likely was an active participant. 
The only reason I thought of it was the tall stack/weight up high/tipping scenario. Once it reaches that magic tipping point...
All our bookcases here at Ft. DaninVan are securely anchored to the wall framing at the tops.
I'm glad you brought this up though. My grand kids will be here at Xmas and I need to check around for tipping hazards.

I wonder how many of the members have installed those anti-tipping brackets that came with all new ranges?
(I didn't...)


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

No way my range will tip over. It takes 2 people just to slide it. I know as I just installed it in my kitchen remodel.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MYB506 said:


> I put a rack up in my shop about 20 years ago and it hasn't failed. I drilled holes at a 15 degree angle into 2X4's to accept 3/4 metal conduit and used lag screws to secure the 2X4 to the 2X4 wall studs. The conduit slips in and out so you can adjust as necessary.


I need to make one myself someday , and am liking this idea . Especially after reading that you can move and rearrange pipes as necessary


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Oops...*



coxhaus said:


> No way my range will tip over. It takes 2 people just to slide it. I know as I just installed it in my kitchen remodel.


Never say never...

Why is an anti-tip device now required behind the range?


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I got a lot of it built today.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

DaninVan said:


> Never say never...
> 
> Why is an anti-tip device now required behind the range?


My guess is they are making the ranges lighter and lighter so they are adding an anti-tip device. My range weighs between 400 and 500 hundred pounds.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"My range weighs between 400 and 500 hundred pounds."
-Lee
Point taken!


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Even at 400 to 500 pounds an open door with a 2 or 3 year old standing on the top edge of the door might get it to tip. I know my 2 1/2 year old great granddaughter is a climber and jumper, I think she could probably tip one over if she just has the chance. She is also a stair builder when she can't get to something she sees that she wants.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I think the rule is that once the center of gravity goes beyond the base, it will tip and be unstable. A one foot base is VERY Small. I'd carefully consider adding to the height of the wall-side vertical so you can bolt it securely to the framing. And as someone pointed out, if it does fall forward, the brick is likely to come down with it. Properly supported, that is a very nice rack. I think I would consider welding some loops on the projecting ends to run a chain through as a restrainer. I guess I'm a belt AND suspenders guy at heart.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I'm with Tom!.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Well Dan I upgraded and used 1 1/2 inch square tubing which is 11ga just because of your comment. It is some stout tubing. I don't see it bending at all. I finished the welding today and it started raining so I have to wait for painting. I have one masonry screw in each vertical tube just to try the fitting. I loaded over 150 pounds on the rack with this one screw and it is holding fine. I plan to use 16 screws total after painting. I think it is going to be strong. If I see any movement then I will reinforce it. 

I cut with the chop saw 45 degree short supports for each arm which now I don't think I am going to bother to weld them on. This rack is stout.

I will post a picture tomorrow of the rack with the wood on it with one screw per vertical tube. With the rain it became to dark for a good picture.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I'd still like to see it anchored to the ceiling framing, Lee. The number of anchors isn't really the point; what it's anchoring_ into_ is what concerns me. I've had too many bricks come loose in my hand.
(If I were counting I'd say one brick short of a load...  )


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Here is a picture with 1 screw each and all the wood. I forgot about the oak wood on the bottom and the steel on the rack. There must be 300 pounds or more on the rack right now.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Don't let your insurance agent see it.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

The wood rack is finished. The new drill worked great drilling and screwing into the old brick wall.


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