# Another bend on wood



## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

I'd like to share a method for bending wood that will make some projects easier to do. I cut a single piece of hard wood into strips but stop short of finishing the cut on one end. 

I also stager the cuts so they don't end at the same point. This keeps from having a week spot in one place. The biggest reason to use this method is it makes it easier to form the bend and acts like a third hand. The grain comes out looking more like a solid piece of wood.

The first picture shows the cuts. The second picture has the strips clamped to blocks screwed to a piece of MDF.

Last is the lamp for behind the sofa for reading light for my wife.

Thanks 

Al


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well is that ever a neat idea . Great job Al !


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great idea, Al.

May beat trying to saw thin strips to laminate them back together...


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Clever idea. What if you cut thin strips of contrasting wood and slipped them into the saw kerfs??


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## RMIGHTY1 (Nov 5, 2014)

Hey Al. I will probably never get that far in my woodworking experience but I sure enjoyed you sharing that. Thank you!


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

This is a great idea, and may just be the very thing I needed to see for an idea on forming wooden boat hull ribs. 

Ok, here's a question on the technique itself.. For cosmetic purposes, at the point where the saw kerfs stop, when you clamp the wood strips together, won't you still have a gap that needs filled?


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## denis lock (Oct 26, 2007)

Hi Al
How and where do you fit the power cord?

Thanks - Denis Lock


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## denis lock (Oct 26, 2007)

Hi Al

Another question if I may. What are the cross section dimensions of the blank you started with?

Thanks - Denis Lock


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## LazurusLong (Jan 20, 2015)

LIke!!!


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Nice technique. Sometimes that extra hand is really useful.


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## Murtu01 (Mar 9, 2014)

Great tip, thanks for sharing.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

That's a really great idea, Al. Thanks.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Also answers that past thread about how many clamps one should have...


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

denis lock said:


> Hi Al
> How and where do you fit the power cord?
> 
> Thanks - Denis Lock


Denis once the post was made then you could run a router along and against the curve of it with a roller guide and cut a groove as far in as you need it, the simple light should be 'low voltage' so 12volt as that does not need that heavy a cable, once the wire was in then insert a fitted strip to fill it in, nice lamp. N


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

That's another great idea Al!!



DaninVan said:


> Also answers that past thread about how many clamps one should have...


The number of clamps i need is always 2 more than what i have on hand, and they all need to be 3" longer or 2" shorter. 

Though last summer i discovered handscrew clamps, and MTStringer has taken those to a new level for me. An amazingly versatile and strong clamp. 

earl


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## firstmuller (Aug 28, 2014)

Very good idea. Thanks for sharing it with us.
Allen


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> Well is that ever a neat idea . Great job Al !


Is there a thank button? Thanks RainMan!

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

jw2170 said:


> Great idea, Al.
> 
> May beat trying to saw thin strips to laminate them back together...


Thanks,

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

DonkeyHody said:


> Clever idea. What if you cut thin strips of contrasting wood and slipped them into the saw kerfs??


You could. But let me ask you this. Have you ever seen contrasting wood projects any place except in woodworking forums. Most people just don't take to it like us wood heads. But a good idea.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

*Maybe. Maybe not.*



Duane Bledsoe said:


> This is a great idea, and may just be the very thing I needed to see for an idea on forming wooden boat hull ribs.
> 
> Ok, here's a question on the technique itself.. For cosmetic purposes, at the point where the saw kerfs stop, when you clamp the wood strips together, won't you still have a gap that needs filled?


Well yes they do. But I left them in because it gave it a nice touch. When closely looked at a person will know exactly what I have done. I also could have filled them with like type wood wedges but it would take away from the speed at which the project was done. This would defeat the process of "DIY" for profit. It also is at the bottom.

Much like welding metal. Sometimes you see the weld and sometimes they are ground smooth. Both are excepted practices. 

Try it once and you will want to use this method every chance you can because it turns an otherwise PITB task into a controlled pleasure. Notice there are no clamps in the opposite direction. 

Thanks for asking,

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

denis lock said:


> Hi Al
> How and where do you fit the power cord?
> 
> Thanks - Denis Lock


Oh you had to ask. 

On this bend I did need to fit a power cord. So I split the outside slat off and cut a thin dado in the next slat and half way through the slat beside it. Then glued the outside slat back on. Then clamped that end in first and worked the glue up from the bottom up. 

Doesn't anyone want to know how I finished it? 

Al


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

Al B Thayer said:


> You could. But let me ask you this. Have you ever seen contrasting wood projects any place except in woodworking forums. Most people just don't take to it like us wood heads.


Interesting question! And I have an answer: guitars  You have a point though. Contrasting wood projects tend to draw attention to themselves, which is nice if you made it, but perhaps not so easy to live with in the long run. I think most people want their furniture to fade into the background to some extent.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

denis lock said:


> Hi Al
> 
> Another question if I may. What are the cross section dimensions of the blank you started with?
> 
> Thanks - Denis Lock


I believe it was 2 3/4" wide and 7/8" thick. I did som shaving after glue up and then a little hand plane and spoke shave work.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

neville9999 said:


> Denis once the post was made then you could run a router along and against the curve of it with a roller guide and cut a groove as far in as you need it, the simple light should be 'low voltage' so 12volt as that does not need that heavy a cable, once the wire was in then insert a fitted strip to fill it in, nice lamp. N



But then you would have a big scar grove to cover. 

Al


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## Davif (Nov 24, 2014)

Love the idea. I'll keep that on in my tool box. BTW, the lamp looks great.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Davif said:


> Love the idea. I'll keep that on in my tool box. BTW, the lamp looks great.


Well thanks for saying so. 

Al


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## Oleks (Dec 26, 2008)

Aalto 1936 patent
That method he developed for manufacturing his famous chairs.


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## Oleks (Dec 26, 2008)

*Aalto 1936 patent*

That way Alvar Aalto was maiking his famous chairs


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## RogerM (May 5, 2009)

Love the lamp, and love the method of making it even more. I can see that technique transferring to all sorts of applications. Thanks for sharing.


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## rodgerjohnson (Dec 31, 2009)

Al
Did you steam the wood and then bend?


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## totallyretired (Sep 7, 2009)

Where is the power cord?


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## oldbilbo (Nov 10, 2008)

Al B Thayer said:


> Have you ever seen contrasting wood projects any place except in woodworking forums.


I'm pleased that this forum emailed me with a 'come look' teaser - although it took quite a while of faffing about to get in.

Nevertheless, that's an excellent idea which I WILL use in some of my sailboat refurb tasks. No, I'm not a boatbuilder nor a time-served journeyman carpenter - but a DIY bodger.

As for 'contrasting wood projects', they're used in glued-up multipart 'bent' sailboat tillers. I have one, I need a spare 'just in case', and that's one easier way. 

I also need to make/repair some damaged curved wooden toe-rail on both sides. With this techniques, some clamps, some epoxy and a router, it's going to be a whole lot quicker than carving up a straight flat plank or two of 'monogamy'....

Er, thanks.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

totallyretired said:


> Where is the power cord?


LED cordless...


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## walshbarry (Nov 22, 2011)

very cool, Al. Did you split the unit with a band saw to get the cord inside?
Barry



Al B Thayer said:


> I'd like to share a method for bending wood that will make some projects easier to do. I cut a single piece of hard wood into strips but stop short of finishing the cut on one end.
> 
> I also stager the cuts so they don't end at the same point. This keeps from having a week spot in one place. The biggest reason to use this method is it makes it easier to form the bend and acts like a third hand. The grain comes out looking more like a solid piece of wood.
> 
> ...


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## John Venture (Jul 3, 2011)

Great piece. I was wondering: in the first picture the plank seems to have been divided in 5 strips whereas on the finished project I can only count 4, did you remove one for aesthetic purpose or did it break during clamping?

I'm also quite impressed by how the strips merge seamlessly on the lamp...I am confident in my inability to render such a 'one piece' look whenever gluing 2 bits of wood (even from the same plank). Any tip in achieving that?!


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## WildWillie (Sep 2, 2012)

If you made two thinner identical bends you could rout the channel for the cord on the face of both and then glue together!?!


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## jenewman2 (Aug 2, 2013)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> This is a great idea, and may just be the very thing I needed to see for an idea on forming wooden boat hull ribs.
> 
> Ok, here's a question on the technique itself.. For cosmetic purposes, at the point where the saw kerfs stop, when you clamp the wood strips together, won't you still have a gap that needs filled?


Maybe he cuts off the tag end, including that gap area?


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## Curvedbox (Jul 31, 2013)

Hi Al,nice job, I assume you have glued the strips together, what glue did you use?
Curvedbox


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

An excellent way to carry out bending.
I used this method when making bilge keels for a G.R.P. built cabin cruiser, thus adapting it to use on the beach, I could make the curve fit exactly the profile of the shell.

Derek.


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## Fasteddie58 (May 18, 2014)

I like this technique and would like to learn more about it and try it. So how do you get the glue in the gaps?


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## Fletcho (Mar 13, 2014)

GREAT IDEA!!!!!!! Fletcho man


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## Peohguy (Oct 22, 2012)

Great idea Al and your project really turned out looking great. I will have to remember this technique I never would have thought of it. I think a new super sharp blade is needed to make good joining joints.
Den


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## Straightlines (May 15, 2013)

*A Variation*



Al B Thayer said:


> Well yes they do. But I left them in because it gave it a nice touch. When closely looked at a person will know exactly what I have done. I also could have filled them with like type wood wedges but it would take away from the speed at which the project was done. This would defeat the process of "DIY" for profit. It also is at the bottom.
> 
> ....Try it once and you will want to use this method every chance you can because it turns an otherwise PITB task into a controlled pleasure. Notice there are no clamps in the opposite direction.
> 
> Al



Al, very clever idea with a lovely project, thanks for sharing! A slight variation on this technique is to make the stock several inches longer than needed, end the kerfs (I would try them w/ a bandsaw) more or less at the same place, and after the bend is fabbed just cut off the "handle" if need be, as in the case of all the material lost to wide blade kerfs. This would solve the need for hiding/eliminating the gap at the end of the kerfs.


-- Bradley


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## CarverJerry (Oct 8, 2009)

*cool idea*

I like that lamp. Like in pianos and guitars wood is bendable. Like in this picture the nail is one piece as is the wood. Soaked in boiling water for 3 mins, put one end in vise and next day drilled and inserted nail. Then reboil the "smashed" end and it will go back to where it was.


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## TrevorWeaver (Feb 20, 2015)

Very nice design and good idea !!!c Well done


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Straightlines said:


> Al, very clever idea with a lovely project, thanks for sharing! A slight variation on this technique is to make the stock several inches longer than needed, end the kerfs (I would try them w/ a bandsaw) more or less at the same place, and after the bend is fabbed just cut off the "handle" if need be, as in the case of all the material lost to wide blade kerfs. This would solve the need for hiding/eliminating the gap at the end of the kerfs.
> 
> 
> -- Bradley


Exactly. But I don't know how well the cut would be with the band saw.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Peohguy said:


> Great idea Al and your project really turned out looking great. I will have to remember this technique I never would have thought of it. I think a new super sharp blade is needed to make good joining joints.
> Den


Thanks for saying so. I rip with an 80 tooth blade to get a good glue joint.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

TrevorWeaver said:


> Very nice design and good idea !!!c Well done


Thanks for saying so.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Fletcho said:


> GREAT IDEA!!!!!!! Fletcho man


Thank you

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

John Venture said:


> Great piece. I was wondering: in the first picture the plank seems to have been divided in 5 strips whereas on the finished project I can only count 4, did you remove one for aesthetic purpose or did it break during clamping?
> 
> I'm also quite impressed by how the strips merge seamlessly on the lamp...I am confident in my inability to render such a 'one piece' look whenever gluing 2 bits of wood (even from the same plank). Any tip in achieving that?!


John
After glue up with no breakage. I cut and shaped it to look more appealing. 

The whole idea here was to make glue up easier by leaving the end uncut. It really makes the glue up much easier. Faster and flatter too.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

walshbarry said:


> very cool, Al. Did you split the unit with a band saw to get the cord inside?
> Barry


After slicing the wood I split the last piece off and set it asside. Then cut a slot in the group through one of the sections and then re- glued the split piece back on. The cord was placed in the groove and then went into the glue up.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Thanks to everyone for the kind words. 

I used Titebond glue and desided to leave the end with the thin wedge gaps on. It became part of the look I was after. If so done were to look down and see them it would give them an idea as to ow it was made.

I think the curve is quite appealing and it came from just looking at it and shaving it with spoke shaves until it stopped looking like a bent piece of wood left out in the rain. Thin at the top and wide at the base. Much the same as a chest of drawers. 

I also actually layed it against my fence on the table saw and sliced a little off each side to get started. 

Thanks again

Al


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## SantaBarbaraSawDust (May 16, 2006)

*Just cut the kerfs long*



Duane Bledsoe said:


> This is a great idea, and may just be the very thing I needed to see for an idea on forming wooden boat hull ribs.
> 
> Ok, here's a question on the technique itself.. For cosmetic purposes, at the point where the saw kerfs stop, when you clamp the wood strips together, won't you still have a gap that needs filled?


Duane, it would be reasonable to think that you would make your saw kerfs longer than needed to get all the clamps on tight. Once that is done, just cut off the tag end to the length you want.


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