# CV 1800 dust collector



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

https://www.clearvuecyclones.com/cyclone-bundles/66-cv1800-lh-1p-cyclone-bundle-with-filters.html

Well after studying dust collection this past few days , I’m thinking it’s time to retire my General DC , and upgrade to something that will improve the dust collection from my table saw .
From the videos I’ve watched , the cyclone clear view seems like a winner . 
I’m going to order it with the optional 16” impeller assembly for more cfm . It’s a $100 upgrade , and the more cfm the better I’m assuming,unless it creates a problem with the cyclone effect . You’d think they’ve took that into consideration though ? 

Now I can go overhead like I wanted to , and not have to worry about not having enough suction .
I’ve watched videos on the product, and although it seems kind of plasticky to me , no ones complaining about it so far , and I don’t want to pay the extra for an all metal one . 

I have a 10’ ceiling , so heights not an issue for the system , plus as a bonus, I get to keep it tucked away in the far corner where I preferred to have it located . 
If I kept my old setup, I was going to move it to the centre side on the garage , as close as I could have it to my table saw .

So now I’m just waiting for a shipping quote, which may be the deal breaker


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well to my surprise I found a dealer in Calgary . That will help with shipping a bit I’m hoping .
I’m almost afraid to ask him the price though 

https://branchestobowls.com/clearvuecyclones/cyclone-bundles/


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## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

RainMan I have been using the Clear Vue 1800 for three years now and really like it. For me it was an easy decision since I try to not buy anything made in China. Just be sure to empty the sawdust barrel before it is full and you plug up the filters.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Knot working said:


> RainMan I have been using the Clear Vue 1800 for three years now and really like it. For me it was an easy decision since I try to not buy anything made in China. Just be sure to empty the sawdust barrel before it is full and you plug up the filters.


Good to hear Larry . Should a guy pay the extra 100 bucks for a 16” impeller, or are you happy with the suction as is ? 
I’m only going to use one tool at once , and my longest run will be under 30 feet


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## jemangin (Oct 23, 2013)

I have had my clearvue for 5 years and it works great. I used 6" pvc(white thin wall sewer line stuff). My longest run is 20' and no issues with the standard impeller. Make sure you get the remote. I have mine in an adjacent room and turn it on and off all the time. I have overfilled the barrel a few times. It sneaks up on you. Just check it regularly and tamp it down once and awhile. The barrel monitor seemed way too expensive.

Get help lifting that motor to the top. It weighs a ton.

Jamie.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

jemangin said:


> I have had my clearvue for 5 years and it works great. I used 6" pvc(white thin wall sewer line stuff). My longest run is 20' and no issues with the standard impeller. Make sure you get the remote. I have mine in an adjacent room and turn it on and off all the time. I have overfilled the barrel a few times. It sneaks up on you. Just check it regularly and tamp it down once and awhile. The barrel monitor seemed way too expensive.
> 
> Get help lifting that motor to the top. It weighs a ton.
> 
> Jamie.


I have a remote sensing system now . As soon as my machine is turned on the contactor starts up my DC , and there’s also a delay when you shut it off . 
But I was actually debating to kibosh that system and go with the remote, as it just makes more sense with multiple machines , unless a switch is located in a handy location.
The majority of the time I’m on my table saw . 

I also had plans on using 6” thin wall pvc


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Or do as I did and use garage door sensors to cut off the DC using their accessory switch. And yes, that's a strobe light on the alarm so you have visual and sound. The DC cuts off when the sensors can't "see" each other.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

sreilly said:


> Or do as I did and use garage door sensors to cut off the DC using their accessory switch. And yes, that's a strobe light on the alarm so you have visual and sound. The DC cuts off when the sensors can't "see" each other.


Wow that’s a pretty unique idea . Had to read it twice and look again to realize what I was looking at


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

Just remember that the ductwork can be just as important. A poor ductwork setup can have a huge impact in performance


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

ger21 said:


> Just remember that the ductwork can be just as important. A poor ductwork setup can have a huge impact in performance


Yes I’m concerned about that to. No 90 degree elbows , and use 6” duct for the main.


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## jemangin (Oct 23, 2013)

The clearvue site forum will give you all the info you need for running your ductwork. Take the pvc as close to the machine as you can get. Flex pipe adds a lot of flow resistance. I originally ran 4" to my table saw then switched it up to 6" almost all the way and it worked way better. A floor sweep is a must. Easy to build. Use it all the time. The barrels are available cheap in Canada from uline. Lots of size choice depending on your height of system.


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## jemangin (Oct 23, 2013)

I ordered the brackets and put it as high as I could. Attached to joists with lag bolts.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

jemangin said:


> The clearvue site forum will give you all the info you need for running your ductwork. Take the pvc as close to the machine as you can get. Flex pipe adds a lot of flow resistance. I originally ran 4" to my table saw then switched it up to 6" almost all the way and it worked way better. A floor sweep is a must. Easy to build. Use it all the time. The barrels are available cheap in Canada from uline. Lots of size choice depending on your height of system.


Great info , thanks  
Speaking of barrels , Ken (a cyclone distributor in Canada ) , was nice enough to mention that businesses that do spray in liner often have these drums .
So I ran down to see my guy and by chance Lorn had just put a blue one out this morning .
He said you can’t have the black ones , so I’m assuming he gets a deposit on them , but said I can have this blue one that he had just emptied.
I’m like perfect , and it’s Cyclone Blue to boot lol


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Rick, be sure to locate it where you can build an soundproof enclosure around it, it is a high db machine. When Clearview was located here, they had one with the 15" impeller in their 4000 + sq.ft. facility ,with more than one CNC machine running and all the rest to their machines running off it, so I would think for a home shop it is way more than adequate. 
Herb


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Great info , thanks
> Speaking of barrels , Ken (a cyclone distributor in Canada ) , was nice enough to mention that businesses that do spray in liner often have these drums .
> So I ran down to see my guy and by chance Lorn had just put a blue one out this morning .
> He said you can’t have the black ones , so I’m assuming he gets a deposit on them , but said I can have this blue one that he had just emptied.
> I’m like perfect , and it’s Cyclone Blue to boot lol


That is great, but remember you will have to empty it. For some reason mine keeps getting heavier every year.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Bob Adams said:


> That is great, but remember you will have to empty it. For some reason mine keeps getting heavier every year.


lol, I was actually thinking the same thing . Ken has mentioned that is was great to have that ring fastener around it to, but apparently it’s a pita to remove and reinstall. 
Guess I’ll find out soon enough . 
It would be cool if a guy could have riveted on some kind of latches instead . 


Another question. Ken seemed concerned about grounding if you use plastic pipe . 
I hope you don’t have to be concerned with every foot of pipe grounding wise? 
I did some sourcing today , and the guys I deal with do not have 6” steel duct in 22 gauge , so I’m going to use non CSA plastic 6” pipe . 
So apparently now I have to be concerned with grounding?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> Rick, be sure to locate it where you can build an soundproof enclosure around it, it is a high db machine. When Clearview was located here, *they had one with the 15" impeller in their 4000 + sq.ft. facility ,with more than one CNC machine running and all the rest to their machines running off it, so I would think for a home shop it is way more than adequate. *
> Herb


Thanks Herb , good to know . Ken was against the 16” impeller upgrade also .


Sound proofing wise I think I’m hooped . How I wish I had a huge shop and a dedicated room for the dust collector and air compressor.
Well and a beer fridge and toilet while I’m dreaming


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Rick...grounding dust collection PVC is like having a torque wrench...you don't use it every day and it sits in a drawer but it's there when you need it...

Read this article...there are lots more articles to read...search "grounding dust collection systems" https://www.thegeekpub.com/3621/grounding-a-dust-collection-system/

...ever see the sign at gas pumps warning you about getting in and out of your car while pumping gas...? And to touch a metal part of the vehicle before reaching for the pump handle...? Anytime anything moves through a container it has the capacity of creating and storing static electricity...an unwanted discharge may have consequences...

...YMMV...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

@Nickp I have read articles about grounding. and they go both ways, The only time I found it was a nuesense was at my drum sander. When I went to pick the board off the conveyor it would Zap me a good one. So I ran a short bare copper wire from wrapped around the duct to the machine, which is grounded, and it solved the problem. It is a nightmare to run wire full length and most PVC systems don't have it for that reason.Just ground the tool to the duct. 
HErb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Hey guys , this gets more complicated. This guy made a comment on youtube , and is claiming that 4” is better for vertical drops , as the velocity is faster . 
I was going to run 6” pvc trunk , and go with 6” all the way to the table saw.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

I can't spend too much time explaining as my mother passed away on Sunday but I can tell you my system piped in all 6" pipe can take a 25' rule from any outlet and suck that baby back to the DC unit without issue. So how much do you really need or want? As for static the only machine I notice any feedback is my spiral head planner. I will be running bare copper around my lines and outlets to a ground source later on. I'll also say my basement shop stays about 68-70 degrees and maybe 40-50% RH.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

sreilly said:


> I can't spend too much time explaining as my mother passed away on Sunday but I can tell you my system piped in all 6" pipe can take a 25' rule from any outlet and suck that baby back to the DC unit without issue. So how much do you really need or want? As for static the only machine I notice any feedback is my spiral head planner. I will be running bare copper around my lines and outlets to a ground source later on. I'll also say my basement shop stays about 68-70 degrees and maybe 40-50% RH.



Sorry to hear about your mother, Steve. My condolences to you and your family.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Sorry to hear about your mom, Steve. 
Hearts to you and your family....


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Hey guys , this gets more complicated. This guy made a comment on youtube , and is claiming that 4” is better for vertical drops , as the velocity is faster .
> I was going to run 6” pvc trunk , and go with 6” all the way to the table saw.



Rick...a 4" line will do...but not because it's better than a 6" drop. A table saw typically requires about 400CFM. At full flow (4500FPM) a 4" line will pass about 400CFM. At the same velocity, a 6" line will pass close to 900CFM. But only if the table saw allows replacement air to allow the duct full velocity. If not, no matter how big the duct, you won't get any more flow. Remember, everything downstream of the DC impeller is a restriction to the DC. You are considering all the bends in the main duct...consider also making sure the TS allows for replacement air. DC's don't allow more flow on suction (vacuum), they work on velocity allowed in the whole system. When you run your drop to your router table with a 2 1/2" hole at the table, for example, it will only allow about 200CFM...but only if you allow sufficient replacement air. If you don't allow for full flow, you'll likely accumulate chips and dust in the main duct. In order for chips and dust to make it all the way to the DC you will need velocity to carry them. Any change in velocity will cause chips and dust to drop at the change. That's how a separator works...air changes direction and/or velocity and gravity takes over.

Look up some flow tables and that will help you determine duct sizes for each machine...and totaling the flow requirements if you're going to run more than one machine at a time. An example might be running your CNC for several hours while you work on another project on your table saw or router.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If you are only using a machine like a router table with a 2 1/2" port then you may improve it's flow by opening another port that is upstream from that one. The force of the air going past the 2 1/2" connection will act like the throat of a carburetor and create more vacuum at the mouth of the 2 1/2" port but only to a point. 

Another factor that needs to be considered is the air volume in the pipe. If your main is 6" and you only have a 2 1/2" port open then there may not be enough air volume in the pipe to float the heaviest debris along it. It has to stay suspended in the air to make it to the DC and if there is very little air in the pipe then it may not happen. An example of this is if you hold a ping pong ball in your hand and then put a vac hose tight against your palm and start the vac up. The ping pong ball doesn't go anywhere because there is no air movement in the pipe.

Most people probably don't understand what is actually happening when the DC is turned on but what the impeller is doing is taking the air against it and propelling it out of the system to atmosphere. That leaves a void so atmospheric pressure pushes in to fill that void at the force of 14.7 pounds per square inch. There is no way to increase that force so the only thing you can do to improve the system is to move more air out of it more quickly. But as Nick said, you can only move so much through a 2 1/2" hole no matter what you do because you are limited with that 14.7 lb/square inch input force.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

sreilly said:


> I can't spend too much time explaining as my mother passed away on Sunday but I can tell you my system piped in all 6" pipe can take a 25' rule from any outlet and suck that baby back to the DC unit without issue. So how much do you really need or want? As for static the only machine I notice any feedback is my spiral head planner. I will be running bare copper around my lines and outlets to a ground source later on. I'll also say my basement shop stays about 68-70 degrees and maybe 40-50% RH.


Sorry to hear about your Mom Steve


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Nickp said:


> Rick...grounding dust collection PVC is like having a torque wrench...you don't use it every day and it sits in a drawer but it's there when you need it...
> 
> Read this article...there are lots more articles to read...search "grounding dust collection systems" https://www.thegeekpub.com/3621/grounding-a-dust-collection-system/
> 
> ...


It has me concerned,but it sure looks like crap lol. Guess I gotta do it regardless.
I’m amazed a screw connected to ground going threw the duct is enough to actually dissipate any static electricity .
Have to do some more research.

I’ve also heard you should have a copper wire running inside the duct . Makes more sense , but would certainly speed up getting plugged duct work


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> It has me concerned,but it sure looks like crap lol. Guess I gotta do it regardless.
> I’m amazed a screw connected to ground going threw the duct is enough to actually dissipate any static electricity .
> Have to do some more research.
> 
> I’ve also heard you should have a copper wire running inside the duct . Makes more sense , but would certainly speed up getting plugged duct work


Which is why I went with metal piping. I drilled the pipe in a few places and put the bolt head on the inside and then double nutted the outside with the ground wire sandwiched between the nuts. I don't know if I even needed the ground wire with metal pipes but it's a case of more is better. I live in the boonies so fires are a big issue with me.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

The Home shop Dc systems do not generate enough static Electricity to cause a spark, I have read. These are not sawdust silos at the mill or grain silos . There are lots of articles written about how static electricity is formed inside of duct work. Home Dc's are run for short periods and off for longer periods.

Rick, don't even think of smaller than 6" duct, that is why you are buying such a powerful set up, take full advantage of it. Hook the 6" up to your TS and any other machine that will take it. Do like Nick said don't cover the spaces between the table and the saw base, you need that for make-up air to get the full capacity out of your system.

Steve, sorry about you Mom, condolences to you and your family.
HErb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Which is why I went with metal piping. I drilled the pipe in a few places and put the bolt head on the inside and then double nutted the outside with the ground wire sandwiched between the nuts. I don't know if I even needed the ground wire with metal pipes but it's a case of more is better. I live in the boonies so fires are a big issue with me.


I’d have to make trips to Calgary, as there’s no metal duct herd unless it’s flimsy furnace duct .
There is a wholesaler here for irrigation stuff, and they were kind enough to give me contractors rate on pvc pipe , which will save me a ton .
Ken ( the cyclone dealer in Calgary) does have a recommendation for a company in Calgary that sells metal pipe .
I could bring my trailer and do it all at once, but I really prefer the PVC




Herb Stoops said:


> The Home shop Dc systems do not generate enough static Electricity to cause a spark, I have read. These are not sawdust silos at the mill or grain silos . There are lots of articles written about how static electricity is formed inside of duct work. Home Dc's are run for short periods and off for longer periods.
> 
> Rick, don't even think of smaller than 6" duct, that is why you are buying such a powerful set up, take full advantage of it. Hook the 6" up to your TS and any other machine that will take it. Do like Nick said don't cover the spaces between the table and the saw base, you need that for make-up air to get the full capacity out of your system.
> 
> HErb


I’m with you Herb, as static issues are probably much more prone to industries where there moving 50,000 cfm , and the saw dust is moving 200 mph .

But I’m debating to drill small holes , and installing one copper wire stretched tightly inside the top of the closest duct in the DC run , and grounding it to a receptacle for piece of mind .


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Rick, a lot of guys install the PVC with the purple primer and glue, I just stuck mine together with nothing and used that metal duct tape to seal the around the joint to seal it. That way in the future, I can reroute the ducts anyway I want, if I decide to move or replace a machine.
HErb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> Rick, a lot of guys install the PVC with the purple primer and glue, I just stuck mine together with nothing and used that metal duct tape to seal the around the joint to seal it. That way in the future, I can reroute the ducts anyway I want, if I decide to move or replace a machine.
> HErb


The video I posted shows the guy using silicone tape around the joints , plus screws on the vertical drops . That way he can make changes in the future if necessary.
Glad I seen that , because otherwise I wound have glued the joints and been in a place of no return . So I certainly appreciate you mentioning it also . 

Talks about the tape around 10:40 





I’m not sure which tape he used exactly, but I googled it and found this stuff at our local Canadian Tire


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I used aluminum foil duct tape, like this SureTape from HD.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Shurtape-1-88-in-x-10-yds-Aluminum-Foil-Repair-Tape-241588/301296783 

Sheet metal screws,one each side on the vertical and hrorizontal run before tape.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blue-Hawk-...-Interior-Exterior-Sheet-Metal-Screws/4634685

HErb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> I used aluminum foil duct tape, like this SureTape from HD.
> https://www.homedepot.com/p/Shurtape-1-88-in-x-10-yds-Aluminum-Foil-Repair-Tape-241588/301296783
> 
> Sheet metal screws,one each side on the vertical and hrorizontal run before tape.
> ...


Herb I think metal foil tape is the winner , and I still have some here left over from other projects.
I wasn’t paying attention to the cost of that silicone tape . 
About $15.00 after tax , and that gets you a total of 10’ . So $1.50 a foot for tape? 
That’s almost what I’m paying for the 6” duct . No thanks Jeff


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well things have gone up . Last time my electrician installed a twist lock 30amp 240v receptacle , the male end and the receptacle were $109 for the pair . Now the receptacle alone is over $150 , and this is contractor rates .
Imagine paying over $200 for every 240V receptacle?

I think the twist lock will only be used for the DC and overhead plug on the table saw


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Why do you need Twist locks? For a large motor like the DC I have mag starter and disconnect and the motor is wired direct to the mag starter. It t is wired for a remote lapel control so I can start/stop it from anywhere in the shop.
HErb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> Why do you need Twist locks? For a large motor like the DC I have mag starter and disconnect and the motor is wired direct to the mag starter. It t is wired for a remote lapel control so I can start/stop it from anywhere in the shop.
> HErb


I was concerned about vibration. Of course seeing as the power to the table saw will be mounted on the ceiling , twist kicks would make sense . 
But it’s more than likely overkill on the DC .

I was going to use a twist lock on the cnc spindle though . Just for piece of mind , and because I have two.

Edit . Herb , almost forgot , the DC will be controlled by an IVAC system . The control box for the IVAC goes to a contactor in a separate enclose that will be plugged into the wall with a twist lock .
I tried the IVAC without an external contactor , and it kept on tripping its breaker because of the inrush current


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

It is a good idea to hook that Ivac up to the shop light circuit so that when you leave the shop and turn off the lights,it kills the DC circuit.then there is no chance that it will turn on by itself and run while you are not there. That is the way the electrician hooked up mine. Or some other type of way to kill the power to the shop when you are not there. Some switch that is located near the exit.
HErb


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## bfblack (May 2, 2012)

I can't remember where I got this article on grounding PVC. If it came from someone on this forum, I apologize for not being able to identify you.

WoodCentral Articles & Reviews

I personally have metal (Nordfab) with a vertical 6" run that splits (Y) to individually gated 4" runs to table saw and jointer. I have never noticed any saw dust accumulation at the entrance to the 6" section. 

You can't generalize from my system to yours because system performance is determined by a combination of the ducting and blower. From an engineering perspective, calculating overall system performance is a difficult problem. We know how to calculate pressure drop in straight sections, elbows and other common fittings. The other piece of the puzzle is the pressure drop from the throat plate on the table saw to the inlet to the piping. This information is generally unknown. The same thing applies to all the other shop tools connected to the dust collector. Hopefully your blower manufacturer can give you some guidance based on their experience.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> Why do you need Twist locks? For a large motor like the DC I have mag starter and disconnect and the motor is wired direct to the mag starter. It t is wired for a remote lapel control so I can start/stop it from anywhere in the shop.
> HErb


Something like this Herb. This was put in for the laser engraver so I could kill power to it , but I think I’ll dedicate it to the DC


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> I was concerned about vibration. Of course seeing as the power to the table saw will be mounted on the ceiling , twist kicks would make sense .
> But it’s more than likely overkill on the DC .
> 
> I was going to use a twist lock on the cnc spindle though . Just for piece of mind , and because I have two.
> ...


Instead of mounting the boxes face down mount them through their sides so that they face out. That's what I did with my ceiling DC unit.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Instead of mounting the boxes face down mount them through their sides so that they face out. That's what I did with my ceiling DC unit.


Never even thought of that. Do a surface mount box and put them on their side . Geez , I don’t exactly think out of the box sometimes lol


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Guys , I posted earlier that I sourced out an oil drum for the saw dust . But now I’m steering towards making a container out of wood with a sealed door . 
Wouldn’t it be much easier to have a door that’s latched on the front of a wooden box , then open it when it’s starting to fill up , and just shovel the saw dust out into a garbage bin ? 
I know it’s an additional step, but undoing the band at the top of the drum and actually having to remove the drum from under the Cyclone seems like a lot of hassle regardless .
I haven’t actually taken the band off yet to see how the lid comes off , but I suspect it’s a nuisance


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Guys , I posted earlier that I sourced out an oil drum for the saw dust . But now I’m steering towards making a container out of wood with a sealed door .
> Wouldn’t it be much easier to have a door that’s latched on the front of a wooden box , then open it when it’s starting to fill up , and just shovel the saw dust out into a garbage bin ?
> I know it’s an additional step, but undoing the band at the top of the drum and actually having to remove the drum from under the Cyclone seems like a lot of hassle regardless .
> I haven’t actually taken the band off yet to see how the lid comes off , but I suspect it’s a nuisance



Rick...I believe you bought the wrong barrel. The one you want is the one with the latch for the ring...the one you have needs a couple of wrenches.

If you build a barrel with a door, the sawdust will fall out when you open it...or never let it get above the bottom of the door.

Check out the hard cardboard barrels at Uline...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Listen to Nick, RICK! The first DC system I built plywood box and a roll out bin that held 70 gallons of dust. What a disaster, the dust filled up around the bin and under it. When I opened the door it fell out all over the floor. I used a scoop shovel and shoveled in into a wheel barrow. I had a trail of sawdust all the way out to where I dumped it. 2 wheel barrel loads, and a 16 gal Sop vac full. Then had to clean the dang shopvac filter, what a PITA. Now I have 32 gal garbage can,I put a 42 gal black plastic bag in it . It has to be weighted down so it doesn't get sucked up into the fan. Use a bent piece of formica around the inside of the barrel to hold it til it get enough sawdust to stay. Or some guys us a brick with a rope on it to hold the bag down. 

I made a lid out of plywood ,routed a groove for the top of the can and put foam weather stripping in to seal it. The can sets on a dolly I made, so it has about 1/2" clearance below the lid. I wheel the empty can in place turn on the DC ,it sucks the can up tight and I slide wedges under the can to hold it. Shut off the DC, use a wire tie on the bag to hold it closed and throw the whole thing in the garbage.

Herb


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Here are some pictures


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

I did a quick search for barrel clamps and this popped up from McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/barrel-clamps/closing-rings-for-steel-drums/ which has the quick release clamp. I did something similar to Herb with a ply top for a trash can. I made a "slip" ring epoxied to the underside of trash can ring and suspended the lid and cyclone on the wall. The can hangs about 1" off the floor. When I need to empty the can it drops to floor so I slide it out and dump it.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Bob Adams said:


> I did a quick search for barrel clamps and this popped up from McMaster Carr https://www.mcmaster.com/barrel-clamps/closing-rings-for-steel-drums/ which has the quick release clamp. I did something similar to Herb with a ply top for a trash can. I made a "slip" ring epoxied to the underside of trash can ring and suspended the lid and cyclone on the wall. The can hangs about 1" off the floor. When I need to empty the can it drops to floor so I slide it out and dump it.


Nice neat job. Bob. How big of a can is that?

Rick,Have you measured your ceiling height an compared it to the height of the cyclone and fan o see if you have enough head room for that Can. It looks kind of high to me.
HErb


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> Nice neat job. Bob. How big of a can is that?
> 
> Rick,Have you measured your ceiling height an compared it to the height of the cyclone and fan o see if you have enough head room for that Can. It looks kind of high to me.
> HErb


It's the standard 32 gallon.


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## jemangin (Oct 23, 2013)

Rick, avoid shovelling. Makes a mess plus you have to wear dust protection. A short piece of flex allows you to lift the lid enough to slide the barrel out. I like the cardboard barrels because they have to the quick release lid and are really light and cheap.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

jemangin said:


> Rick, avoid shovelling. Makes a mess plus you have to wear dust protection. A short piece of flex allows you to lift the lid enough to slide the barrel out. I like the cardboard barrels because they have to the quick release lid and are really light and cheap.


I’m liking that quick release idea


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