# enroute routing



## jasongager (Jul 14, 2008)

i am pretty new to this and my first question of witch im sure there will be many is .. what type of tool do i need to accuratly measure the starting point of my z axis when i change bits.. im using a gerber advantage 600 and the way of setting the z axis is only with a piece of flat plastic and that isnt accurate enough


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the forums Jason.


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## atgcarving (Feb 16, 2009)

Not sure I know what you mean. This post is pretty old.....do you still need help with this issue?


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## jasongager (Jul 14, 2008)

hey there .. well i found a way to do it more accuratly...the problem was that when i was using a bottom surfacing bit to make a flat surface i wanted to use a 1/2 inch for the majority and a 1/4 inch to finish the edges...but when you switch bits you have to reset the z axis exactly 1/8" from the material..the way to do it with this machine is to use a 1/8" piece of material and set the bit right on top of it, but when you do that its only as accurate as your eye..so the second bit used would not cut to the exact depth as the first..usually i would say about a 64th off..so what i did was use an 1/8" piece of aluminum witch i hooked a led light to with a small gator clip, and a 9 volt battery..i clip the lead to the bit and when i lower it down it lights up as soon as the bit touches the plate..its still not 100% accurate but it works better than my eye does


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## Arcticfox46 (Jul 19, 2007)

*Settong a TOOL bit in "Z" axis*



jasongager said:


> hey there .. well i found a way to do it more accuratly...the problem was that when i was using a bottom surfacing bit to make a flat surface i wanted to use a 1/2 inch for the majority and a 1/4 inch to finish the edges...but when you switch bits you have to reset the z axis exactly 1/8" from the material..the way to do it with this machine is to use a 1/8" piece of material and set the bit right on top of it, but when you do that its only as accurate as your eye..so the second bit used would not cut to the exact depth as the first..usually i would say about a 64th off..so what i did was use an 1/8" piece of aluminum witch i hooked a led light to with a small gator clip, and a 9 volt battery..i clip the lead to the bit and when i lower it down it lights up as soon as the bit touches the plate..its still not 100% accurate but it works better than my eye does


Jason,

you still here?

There must be some sort of digital readout on you r machine.

Also, you must be able to move your "Z" axis manually.

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So, Place you 1/8 "steel" spacer block on top of your work being cut.

move you "Z" axis down to aproximetely 1/8 above your work. NOT - NOT touching the top of the spacer.

Make sure your spacer is a little bit away from the bit.

Move you bit down in "Z" in slow jog increment, until it is just .010 or so "below" the spacer.

Try to move under the bit - GENTLY.

If it goes under - then move the spacer away and move your "Z" down a little more.

Repeat this until the spacer does NOT go.

Try the spacer again, if it does not fit, then good! Now, move your "Z" axis up SLOW jog just until the spacer VERY GENTLY slides under the bit.

Now move the spacer out of the way.

Again move the "Z" axis down .001 ---- try the spacer. Repeat in .001 increments until the spacer does not go. Then back the bit up .001 until the spacer goes.

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This takes a long time to read and understand - it only takes a minute to actually DO it.

NEVER - NEVER - move the "Z" axis down to touch the spacer. ALWAYS ALWAYS - have the spacer out of the way.

HOPE this halps.


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