# Building A High Quality Circle Jig



## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

After looking at a number of circle jigs from store bought to plans to build a circle jig I decided I could not buy a circle jig that was of quality so I decided to build my own and with that have a solidly built circle jig that’s on a bearing not a nail or pin in a hole. I had been using a piece of Lexan using a nail to make my cuts. Made of Stainless Steel and 1/2" Nylon. The jig is not finished but here is a peek as to how it will be built. The center pivot can be screwed or use carpet tape to achor the center pivot.


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Looks like a good idea and it will prolly work better than any store bought


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## tryingtokeepmyfingers (Jun 3, 2008)

very cool it is alot like this system... 
Circle Jig Complete - CJC - Micro Fence - Precision tools for the

I saw it at the wood working show and really liked everything about it but the price I thought it was WAY to expensive for what it was but a lot of things are like that now days.. 

I like you approch and cannot wait to see it in action as I have to cut some 12 inch circles pretty soon and was debating doing it with the router or the bandsaw with a circle jig


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## Bøb (Aug 12, 2006)

It'll work, but it's not the correct bearing for that application. A small flanged bearing would be better suited, but, it's up to you. What vertical forces are you trying to minimize at the pivot point that would necessitate a thrust bearing ??? Your accuracy is still determined by the fit between the pivot pin and the pieces that it pins together.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Bob WIngard said:


> It'll work, but it's not the correct bearing for that application. A small flanged bearing would be better suited, but, it's up to you. What vertical forces are you trying to minimize at the pivot point that would necessitate a thrust bearing ??? Your accuracy is still determined by the fit between the pivot pin and the pieces that it pins together.


Bob, I agree with you... I just had the thrust bearing on hand. I had ordered a flange bearing on Friday from McMaster Carr. Should be here today...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

azviper said:


> bob, i agree with you... I just had the thrust bearing on hand. I had ordered a flange bearing on friday from mcmaster carr. Should be here today...


kiss!


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## Tempest (Jan 7, 2011)

I agree with Harry. This is a low speed/low force condition so I don't really see any advantage to a bearing. Low friction plastic should work just fine, and there is nothing to gum up.


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## upprc04 (May 9, 2011)

harrysin said:


> kiss!


What is the smallest circle you could cut with that jig? I'm trying to figure out how to make a jig to cut 6" holes. To you set the pivot point under the bottom of the router, so you can cut a radius of 3" which is probably shorter than the width/length of the router. Hope this makes sense and go easy on me, just getting in to woodworking and doing some basic projects.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

10/10 Harry.....looks good, but is it practical?...........AL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Al Robins said:


> 10/10 Harry.....looks good, but is it practical?...........AL


Hush your mouth, Al.

Are you trying to stir him up???????.

Of course it is practical, even I can make one and use it....


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Tempest said:


> I agree with Harry. This is a low speed/low force condition so I don't really see any advantage to a bearing. Low friction plastic should work just fine, and there is nothing to gum up.


What is it your agreeing too? Harry did not say a dang thing... Each to their own...


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

upprc04 said:


> What is the smallest circle you could cut with that jig? I'm trying to figure out how to make a jig to cut 6" holes. To you set the pivot point under the bottom of the router, so you can cut a radius of 3" which is probably shorter than the width/length of the router. Hope this makes sense and go easy on me, just getting in to woodworking and doing some basic projects.


This setup will not cut 6" circles but I am after 48" radius for poker tables...


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

upprc04 said:


> What is the smallest circle you could cut with that jig? I'm trying to figure out how to make a jig to cut 6" holes. To you set the pivot point under the bottom of the router, so you can cut a radius of 3" which is probably shorter than the width/length of the router. Hope this makes sense and go easy on me, just getting in to woodworking and doing some basic projects.



Hi,

Harry's jig will cut holes from 2" diameter up to 30"? ++

It is easy to make and use.

The pivot pin does sit under the router base between the jig and the work piece. the base does not interfere with the pin.

Harry has posted a great tutorial on making the jig.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Keith,

I can see where you are coming from if you want a high quality jig for production use.

It is very easy to make a jig to cut 48" disks (table tops) from 1/4" ply/mdf/hdpe.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

upprc04 said:


> What is the smallest circle you could cut with that jig? I'm trying to figure out how to make a jig to cut 6" holes. To you set the pivot point under the bottom of the router, so you can cut a radius of 3" which is probably shorter than the width/length of the router. Hope this makes sense and go easy on me, just getting in to woodworking and doing some basic projects.


This particular jig will go as small as a 1 1/8" diameter hole to, from memory 22" but can be made as long as you wish, in fact it's so easy to make that there's no reason why you shouldn't make more than one, each with a different range. As shown, the fulcrum point can be moved and the router slid along the rods, giving it stepless adjustment. I made this one over ten years ago and it has performed faultlessly despite considerable use. Many of the illustrated projects shown in my gallery would not have been possible without this jig, which I'm pleased to see has been made by several other members to my knowledge. I'm not claiming that this is the ultimate circle routing jig but I do claim that it is cheap and so simple to make , no engineering required and performs faultlessly.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Hello Upprc04
With my jig you can cut holes from 0 to 30 cm (+ / - 12 ") without having to establish a center
Cheers

With high precision

Daniel

You can see all details at red adress below


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just one more you can make cheap and do the same thing with it 
This one will do 1/4" to 6ft cir. or longer, just need to slip in longer rod(s)  plus you have a ski jig ,all in one jig.

YouTube - Trend Pivot Frame Jig
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/22583-trend-jig.html

See PDF file on the link below, what this jig can do easy 
http://www.routerforums.com/194083-post1.html
====
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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

AzViper said:


> This setup will not cut 6" circles but I am after 48" radius for poker tables...


You are making a high quality jig that will undoubtedly do the job you require of it for a very long time.
There must be many different styles of circle jig, and personally I don't think anyone can say which is the best for you. Quite simply,because none of them are you, and they do not have the jig you are making.
I have no problem with others offering alternatives, but quite often here, it seems that there are some people that believe there is only one way to skin a cat.
Shame


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

I have skin my share of cats and I must have 20 or so cir.jigs and when I find a new one I pass it on, always a way to get the job done 

Here's just one more way, John's way, I made my own copy of John's new lift system.
MLCS PowerLift Motorized Router Lift
See his new video on the web page.

It's a great way to cut a cir.on the router table, very safe and easy job on the Router Table..

Some will not go for the power lift way that's no big deal I have the crank handle also on hand ,the picture does not show the hole for it ,,,it was put in place after the fact..so I can use the power lift part (nut driver with tons of power"Snap-On type") on other jobs..
With the stop plunge rod on the router you can setup a stop point for any router bit..

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gav said:


> You are making a high quality jig that will undoubtedly do the job you require of it for a very long time.
> There must be many different styles of circle jig, and personally I don't think anyone can say which is the best for you. Quite simply,because none of them are you, and they do not have the jig you are making.
> I have no problem with others offering alternatives, but quite often here, it seems that there are some people that believe there is only one way to skin a cat.
> Shame


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Nothing wrong with Harrys circle jig. I've used it many times with accuracy. I was questioning the practicality of Kieths. KISS principal maybe? ..........AL


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Keith:

Very nicely done and I'll bet it works a charm. I prefer Santés version for versatility and accuracy but I love the fit and finish that you've put into your's. Excellent for expanded circles.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Nice job on the jig Keith!! I like it. Two questions for you.. 1st, have you made allowances for referencing specific diameters? Any kind of scale planned?? 2nd, how do you place the 'center pivot and base' exactly where you want it? It looks to me like it would be a blind placement where close will be good enough. Looking forward to some pics of your jig in use...

bill


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

gav said:


> You are making a high quality jig that will undoubtedly do the job you require of it for a very long time.
> There must be many different styles of circle jig, and personally I don't think anyone can say which is the best for you. Quite simply,because none of them are you, and they do not have the jig you are making.
> I have no problem with others offering alternatives, but quite often here, it seems that there are some people that believe there is only one way to skin a cat.
> Shame


My intention when making my first post on this thread was in no way intended to belittle Keith, on the contrary, what he has shown indicates a high skill level, just making the threads on the ss rods, whether by die or turning is not easy like mild steel, no, I was attempting to illustrate that it's possible to make a very simple, very accurate jig without over-engineering, the latter a path that both Bj and myself have gone down on a number of occasions for the buzz that it gives us rather than it being the best way to approach the problem. Then again, whereas Keith was showing a jig he's making for his own use, Bob and I regularly make jigs, templates and complete projects purely because we hope that there are members who are interested in having a go themselves.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Nice job on the jig Keith!! I like it. Two questions for you.. 1st, have you made allowances for referencing specific diameters? Any kind of scale planned?? 2nd, how do you place the 'center pivot and base' exactly where you want it? It looks to me like it would be a blind placement where close will be good enough. Looking forward to some pics of your jig in use...
> 
> bill


Well I suppose everyone should know my jig is not for circles but for half circles. I build custom poker tables and was tired of using Lexan and a nail as the pivot point. My tables could be anywhere from 47" wide to 40" wide. Once I router out my templates I then use a router with a bushing to make my cuts and the templates are put away either to be used again or not.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

gav said:


> You are making a high quality jig that will undoubtedly do the job you require of it for a very long time.
> There must be many different styles of circle jig, and personally I don't think anyone can say which is the best for you. Quite simply,because none of them are you, and they do not have the jig you are making.
> I have no problem with others offering alternatives, but quite often here, it seems that there are some people that believe there is only one way to skin a cat.
> Shame


Gav, I'm cool... I have been in woodworking for 40 years and have a woodworking shop. As the old saying goes, "this is not my first rodeo". Anyway I am sure there are a host of ideas as to how someone will build a jig. My jig is simple and will be accurate and thats all that really counts for me. Beats the hell out of using Lexan and a nail of which I had been using for years. When I bought the new router I said its time to build a circle jig...


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## Rick in Pittsburgh (Jun 23, 2009)

Keith,

Great job on the table!


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

*Awesome looking table Keith!! Really awesome!*


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

harrysin said:


> My intention when making my first post on this thread was in no way intended to belittle Keith, on the contrary, what he has shown indicates a high skill level, just making the threads on the ss rods, whether by die or turning is not easy like mild steel, no, I was attempting to illustrate that it's possible to make a very simple, very accurate jig without over-engineering, the latter a path that both Bj and myself have gone down on a number of occasions for the buzz that it gives us rather than it being the best way to approach the problem. Then again, whereas Keith was showing a jig he's making for his own use, Bob and I regularly make jigs, templates and complete projects purely because we hope that there are members who are interested in having a go themselves.


Harry I was not offended in anyway with your post. I have a habit of over engineering things due to being an Electrical Engineer, I'm sorry I have been brain washed. Been this way with everything I build whether its been off-road race cars or top fuel hydros. I am always looking at how something can be made better. Drives my wife crazy!!!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

AzViper said:


> Harry I was not offended in anyway with your post. I have a habit of over engineering things due to being an Electrical Engineer, I'm sorry I have been brain washed. Been this way with everything I build whether its been off-road race cars or top fuel hydros. I am always looking at how something can be made better. Drives my wife crazy!!!


I'm pleased that you were not offended by my first post and I now realise where you're coming from. From time to time Bob and I, because we are well equipped for metal as well as wood, like to let our hair down (in my case not a lot to let down) and produce over-engineered items for the shear hell of it. At this point in time it strikes me that you are actually using templates for routing your tables and this of course is the way to go for accurate repeatability and if this is so, then a ball race instead of a template guide would not be over-engineering, but a sensible approach.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

harrysin said:


> I'm pleased that you were not offended by my first post and I now realise where you're coming from. From time to time Bob and I, because we are well equipped for metal as well as wood, like to let our hair down (in my case not a lot to let down) and produce over-engineered items for the shear hell of it. At this point in time it strikes me that you are actually using templates for routing your tables and this of course is the way to go for accurate repeatability and if this is so, then a ball race instead of a template guide would not be over-engineering, but a sensible approach.


Harry, your correct in that the jig I am building is used only to build templates of which need to be accurate. I stack the template on top of two sheets of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood and make multiply passes to to cut through both sheets. All cuts are done using templates. I laminate the edge that the bushing rides against so the template will last.


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## Duckster (Mar 23, 2010)

Fantastic table, this thread is useful for my own (forthcoming) jig.


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## hal (Sep 14, 2004)

Keith, I really like your jig, neat and clean and your table is great. What more can I say. Have a great day


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## hal (Sep 14, 2004)

Hi, I have a question for Bobj3. I like your circle jig for the router table and Im sure I could figure it out , but it almost midnight so I'll take the easy way out. How do you lock the pivot point on your jig.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

AzViper said:


> Harry, your correct in that the jig I am building is used only to build templates of which need to be accurate. I stack the template on top of two sheets of 3/4" cabinet grade plywood and make multiply passes to to cut through both sheets. All cuts are done using templates. I laminate the edge that the bushing rides against so the template will last.


Keith:

What are you using for templates? How are you laminating the edges and with what? For example, I use 1/8" to 1/4" MDF for templates. I usually scrap them after their use. If I laminated them, I would have an uneven surface for the router to ride on and I would suspect little "beads" of glue squeezed out between the layers would mar the bearing surface for the guide. Your experience please.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Hal

Thanks
You will see the tee slot bar in the snapshot below, it has a Allen set in it and I used some metal banding strap under it to fill the gap and to give a place for the set screw to lock in without putting in the little marks in the MDF tee slot..

Note the one in the snapshot below is not the same one I used,it's for a diff.type of jig but the same type of tee bar..(nut)

Router Forums

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/28395-building-high-quality-circle-jig-2.html

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/powerlift.html

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hal said:


> Hi, I have a question for Bobj3. I like your circle jig for the router table and Im sure I could figure it out , but it almost midnight so I'll take the easy way out. How do you lock the pivot point on your jig.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Hi Ron,

I use 3/4” MDF so I have surface area for the laminate to stick to. I used Wilbond adhesive to adhere the laminate to the MDF. The key is to apply a very thin layer of adhesive to the MDF and the laminate and allow the adhesive to completely dry. Any glue on the top and bottom surfaces is removed with a belt sander as these surfaces the look and finish does not matter. When applying the adhesive I do not use a brush or roller but a piece of old laminates to spread and scrape a very thin and even layer. As for the laminate I have no clue of the name as I get leftover cutoffs from a friend who builds countertops and I get a number of colors but again it does not matter to me.

Once the adhesive has been applied and is completely dry I then take the laminate and start applying to the MDF. Remember once the MDF and laminate come in contact with each other there is no chance of removing so it’s important that everything is square and aligned up properly. If you do a search of Youtube on lamineting coutertops you will find videos.

Hope this helps Ron…


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## hal (Sep 14, 2004)

Thanks Bobj3, I had figured it was something like that. the strip of metal under the pointer is agood idea, the jig should last a long time. I'll probility build a jig like this because I like to work off my router table.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Hal

Your Welcome, it can be use for more than a cir.cutter but I 'm sure you will find 
many more things that you can use it for...like a pattern cutter/pin router,etc.

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hal said:


> Thanks Bobj3, I had figured it was something like that. the strip of metal under the pointer is agood idea, the jig should last a long time. I'll probility build a jig like this because I like to work off my router table.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

AzViper said:


> ...
> Hope this helps Ron…


Yup. Bang on and thank you. I use laminates for working surfaces. It never occurred to me to use it for templates. Seems somewhat extravagant but if you have a supply it would work well. I'll file that one for future use.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

allthunbs said:


> Yup. Bang on and thank you. I use laminates for working surfaces. It never occurred to me to use it for templates. Seems somewhat extravagant but if you have a supply it would work well. I'll file that one for future use.


MDF is ok for one time use but will wear after multiple passes with the bushing up against it. This is why I laminate these edges on templates I know will be used many times.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Well I got some free time today to finish my circle jig. I ended up taking a different approach in using a stainless steel ball joint end as my pivot point. This particular 5/16" stainless rod will allow me to make circles from 40” to 47”. I made up a few other rods that will allow to cut smaller circles. I have accomplished what I was after in designing and building a quality circle jig that fits my needs. 

The bottom of the pivot I used a stainless bolt that is countersunk into the nylon while using a 3/4" nylon spacer topped off with a 5/16” stainless lock nut.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

A beautifully made jig which I'm sure will more than meet your requirements Keith. Just one thing I would have done differently and that is instead of collars retaining the rod at the router end, I would have threaded the rod and used nuts and washers.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

I will 2nd Harry's post but add one thing,use just one rod (smaller pivot point) so you can adjust the jig quick and easy.. 
One jig for more than one type of job 

http://store.workshopsupply.com/cat....html?osCsid=3efcb25b89a4e366abb7d5ee6e1fe87d
======


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

harrysin said:


> A beautifully made jig which I'm sure will more than meet your requirements Keith. Just one thing I would have done differently and that is instead of collars retaining the rod at the router end, I would have threaded the rod and used nuts and washers.


Hi Harry, I wanted to thread the rod but the lathe has broken down and I am waiting for parts. The collars were used basically to take photos. The 40" to 47" serves my needs for cutting arcs for poker tables. For smaller circles the center pivot pin would have been made as in my detail in the first post with the rod sliding through the pivot much like Bob has shown above. 

I did cut into some MDF last night and the jig worked perfectly with the starting point and ending point arriving and meeting each other dead-on.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"with the starting point and ending point arriving and meeting each other dead-on."

That's what it's all about Keith.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Here are a few updated photos of the finished jig along with one of the shorter rods. I made up a total of 5 shorter rods but most likely I will never use them. Gone are the collars and each rod has been threaded.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Now I'll be able to sleep at night Keith. I'm sure that you are much happier now that it's finished to your original design.


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## pedromdf (May 12, 2011)

I have seen this post from the beginning.

I think you've made a great circle cutting jig.

One problem is that you need a set of rods if you have various diameter cuts.

My congratulations for the fabulous table you've made with this jig.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

That is one very smart looking jig, Keith. That SS ball joint was a master stroke.

Cheers

Peter


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## Rick in Pittsburgh (Jun 23, 2009)

Hat's off to you Keith. If you put as much into you poker tables as you did in that jig, then you have some first rate tables.

Thanks for sharing.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

pedromdf said:


> I have seen this post from the beginning.
> 
> I think you've made a great circle cutting jig.
> 
> ...


I have about 6 inches of adjustment between rods. The current rod will cover all the sizes of tables I will make. I made up other rods as well.

Here I have mounted the larger base to the router.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

istracpsboss said:


> That is one very smart looking jig, Keith. That SS ball joint was a master stroke.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


Thanks Peter... It does work great and very accurate...


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Rick in Pittsburgh said:


> Hat's off to you Keith. If you put as much into you poker tables as you did in that jig, then you have some first rate tables.
> 
> Thanks for sharing.


Thanks Rick, I sometimes overkill projects but in this case I wanted a jig that was accurate with no room for errors when in use.


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