# Router tip for gr doors



## overthehill (Dec 15, 2008)

I talked myself into restoring a wooden overhead garage door. It is made of a number of horizontal panels that run in metal tracks. It appears that each panel is composed of a frame with a i/4 plywood piece attached to the frame on the outdoor side of the door. Each panel has vertical 1x1 trim spaced on the outside over the plywood. My puzzlement is how has the panel to panel intersection been routed so that the panels roll around and are closed when the door is closed (vertical). each panel is hinged to the one above it. I have not had the opportunity to remove one or more panels and look!:blink:


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

The key is take a real hard look at the door you now have ,it will show all .....most are made in the R & S way with a rabbit on the top and lower edges of the doors, so they are water tight..when it's closed..it's a real strait forward design..

The door track will let the door open and close easy...but the panels must be the same size that you now have..


http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop..._stile_router_bits1.html#reverse_combo_anchor

for the real hvy. built garage doors
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...e_router_bits2.html#entry_door_cutters_anchor

==========





overthehill said:


> I talked myself into restoring a wooden overhead garage door. It is made of a number of horizontal panels that run in metal tracks. It appears that each panel is composed of a frame with a i/4 plywood piece attached to the frame on the outdoor side of the door. Each panel has vertical 1x1 trim spaced on the outside over the plywood. My puzzlement is how has the panel to panel intersection been routed so that the panels roll around and are closed when the door is closed (vertical). each panel is hinged to the one above it. I have not had the opportunity to remove one or more panels and look!:blink:


----------



## overthehill (Dec 15, 2008)

Thank you Bob13 Your information is very encouraging to me. I think I'll insist on taking the bottom and the next panel off so I can view the actual contruction and "copy-cat" it. I'll let you know if there are any surprises! overthe hill


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome John

You don't need to take it all the way out.unhook the door from the opener put a saw horse under each end of the door, lift the door up by 6" to 12" or so and use a pair of vise cribs to lock the door in place , put the saw horses under the door to support the door, unscrew the hinges from the bottom door and let it sit on the saw horses, you will need to clamp the cables on each end ,that are used to lift the door......once the weight is off the door it will drop down to the saw horses...once you have a good look at it use some cut offs from a 2 x 4 to help to hold it back in place so you can put the screws back in the hinges and hook up the lifting cables..once all the parts are back in place, hand lift the door a time or two to make sure it's set back right.. 

It's not a hard job just takes time 


====


----------



## overthehill (Dec 15, 2008)

Again, thanks for your insight. It sounds like this is a mornings worth of careful work

overthehill


----------



## overthehill (Dec 15, 2008)

several questions what are vise cribs? Are you starting out with the door open(up) or closed (down)? I am trying to relate the 6'' to 12" to the height of sawhorses
thanks again
john


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

BJ,

Did you mean to type vise grips?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI John

" vise grips " sorry,, pliers that lock in place when you clamp something 

You need to let the door down on top of the saw horses and then remove the hinges and then lift the door 6" to 12" off the saw horse and then lock the doors in place with the vise grips...then remove the hinges..


============



overthehill said:


> several questions what are vise cribs? Are you starting out with the door open(up) or closed (down)? I am trying to relate the 6'' to 12" to the height of sawhorses
> thanks again
> john


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> You're Welcome John
> 
> You don't need to take it all the way out.unhook the door from the opener put a saw horse under each end of the door, lift the door up by 6" to 12" or so and use a pair of vise cribs to lock the door in place , put the saw horses under the door to support the door, unscrew the hinges from the bottom door and let it sit on the saw horses, you will need to clamp the cables on each end ,that are used to lift the door......once the weight is off the door it will drop down to the saw horses...once you have a good look at it use some cut offs from a 2 x 4 to help to hold it back in place so you can put the screws back in the hinges and hook up the lifting cables..once all the parts are back in place, hand lift the door a time or two to make sure it's set back right..
> 
> ...


What wood would you recommend to use on the garage door? My door is 16' x7' and the rails would have to be finger joint I am guessing to keep them true and straight. I guess 1/4 plywood for the panels and they would not be glued to allow for movement.

It would be interestig to cost out the price of the material to remake a door apposed to buying a stell one that comes insulated. ($850.00 for a 16' x 7'garage door with R12)


----------



## overthehill (Dec 15, 2008)

the size is non standard and for some reason the owner does not wish tio replace the whole door
john


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Most don't use plywood for the panels they use hardboard ( Masonite ) it's water tight the norm,,once it's primed..they also glue it in place, in place because it makes the door more stable and stronger ..

Many use Poplar for the frame it mills nice some use Oak.
The finger joints you see in some of doors is used to make the boards longer, it's hard to find long stock now days..in that way they and make a 20 ft door easy...

I just replace my garage door with a metal one, it's was only 450.oo but that was for a standard size door, anything other than that is called a special door size and that can take up to 6 to 8 weeks to get..

But I have seen the standard door fit into a non standard door opening with a new frame to hold the tracking.. on the inside of the opening.

========
=====


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Replacing the door isn't that difficult, especially if you follow what Bj is saying, even if all you're replacing is just one panel/section. As he said, support the door for each section.


----------

