# Which material for fence



## onap (Mar 19, 2009)

Hi everybody.

I did my own router table one year ago with its fence in MDF.

To increase the safety, I made two "moveable fence" to redure the opening of the origine fence.

The original fence is square with the table top.
When I place the two moveable fences on the original fence, The fence loose its squarness with the table top. The lesft side made an actue angle with the table top, and the other side made an obtuse angle

The two fence parts are made from the same MDF panel (18mm). But it seems that the thcikness varies!!!

Is it better to make fence with MDF or plywood ?

Thanks for your help


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Good morning onap I think that the MDF is good. It sounds like you have the right idea, Would it be possible to shim the fences to be parallel? I would start there, as long as the MDF is sound


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I also choose the MDF. I agree with Howard, sounds like you have the right idea going.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Hello onap

I have the same problem with my second fence (photo #1). It’s made with ½” MDF but the front sliding parts are made with ¾” plywood. I don’t know if the stain / varnish is enough to make the fence out of square or something else. I sanded all surfaces and still had the same problem. 

So I’m making now a new fence based on ShopNotes magazine idea (photo #2). The fence is made with ¾“ vaneer plywood and the front sliding fence is made from ¼” Hardboard (it’s like MDF). I will be finishing this fence shortly and I will post the photos here. 

I will choose plywood for the fence

Nicolas


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Whatever material is selected, it's helpful to remember that it's not a machined surface. As such, some "tuning" may be necessary to achieve flat and square. How "flat" and how "square" depends on the level of precision desired.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

I have nothing against MDF, in fact, it's wonderful stuff. I do suggest looking at HDPE or UHMW. This is what the OP fences are made of, I've used mine for several yrs now and haven't had any trouble with them. 

Just remembered, there are some aluminum fences. I believe Bj has made a few.


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## onap (Mar 19, 2009)

Ralph Barker said:


> Whatever material is selected, it's helpful to remember that it's not a machined surface. As such, some "tuning" may be necessary to achieve flat and square. How "flat" and how "square" depends on the level of precision desired.


Thanks all for yor answers.

I do some measurement on the two fences: Each fences has a thickness variation about .15 mm (0,001 in) form one corner to the opposite one.

Like you say, I think i will use some tape to shim (is it the correct term)


PS: Sorry for my poor english :'(


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have nothing against MDF, in fact, it's wonderful stuff. I do suggest looking at HDPE or UHMW. This is what the OP fences are made of, I've used mine for several yrs now and haven't had any trouble with them.
> 
> Just remembered, there are some aluminum fences. I believe Bj has made a few.


I need to make a fence for my new table. I was thinking about using hardwood with a UHMW front face. I can get it nearby at Ptreeusa. I have one question...is it possible to add t track to the UHMW?

Thanks
Bill


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bill, there are better choices for your fence. Baltic Birch plywood with a high pressure laminate lets your material slide easy, and you can use glue or contact cement with these. There is no glue for UHMW.


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

Mike said:


> Bill, there are better choices for your fence. Baltic Birch plywood with a high pressure laminate lets your material slide easy, and you can use glue or contact cement with these. There is no glue for UHMW.


Mike, I'm going to be buying some 1/2" maple plywood to make the cabinet for the top (when I ever finish it). I thought the maple with walnut facing would look nice (since I edged the top with walnut). And I will have some extra, so I might use that for the fence. But I don't understand what you mean by high pressure laminate. Is that something I could do myself?

Thanks
Bill


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Bill,

To answer, yes. Your local HD or Lowes should carry everything you need.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Bill

Just a quick note,, The router table fence is a very important part of the router table setup,,It needs to do many jobs.. so to say don't skimp on it...you are just down the road from Peach..

Supreme Router Table Fence
Router Table Fence

I will say I have both MDF the UHMW type, and the UHMW will put the MDF to shame.....

Just one note about what you want to make the cabinet out of,,it's to light unless you want to build a frame to keep in together..I would suggest some 3/4" cabinet grade plywood that has the laminate on it from the get go...To see it take a peek at the NYWS, Norm's website..

New Yankee Workshop - Featuring the Craftsmanship of Master Carpenter Norm Abram

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gazippoman said:


> Mike, I'm going to be buying some 1/2" maple plywood to make the cabinet for the top (when I ever finish it). I thought the maple with walnut facing would look nice (since I edged the top with walnut). And I will have some extra, so I might use that for the fence. But I don't understand what you mean by high pressure laminate. Is that something I could do myself?
> 
> Thanks
> Bill


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Although one's local HD or Lowes may be willing to order cabinet-grade verneered ply, what they stock isn't cabinet grade. As such, it's subject to having voids and variations in the plies. That may be OK for panels on a router cabinet having a frame structure, it wouldn't be satisfactory for the top or fence parts, IMHO. Also, what some people sell as Baltic Birch plywood is also construction-grade, not cabinet-grade.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Here is what you need for your fence...

Buy Phenolic Faced MultiPly, 3/4" x 24" x 48", Phenolic Faced Plywood, Jigs &

Notice there is virtually no voids in this stuff.


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

Bob J, I had planned on making my face with hard maple I have left over from completing my work bench. I have several pieces that at 3/4" X 5" and 1 3/4" X 4". Then i was going to use UHMW for the front face. I plan on securing it to the table with T-track.

As to the cabinet, I sorta like the one you have on your gallery (pic taken in 2007). I was going to make it the same height as my table saw, since i made my router top the size to fit in between the TS extensions (more room when stored.)

I'm not only lucky to have a Rockler, a Woodcraft and Ptreeusa close to me, I also have a lumber yard with cabinet quality plywood about 4 miles away. 
Suwanee Lumber | Hardwood Supplier: lumber, plywood, moldings
That's where I get my dimensional lumber when I don't have the time to use rough stock.
Bill


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bill, high pressure laminate is sold under different names around the world. Formica is one brand you will find. Stores like HD used to sell this in 2' x 4' sections but now they only sell by full sized sheets.(4' x 8') This material is easy to work with. I cut mine on my table saw with a 10" 80 tooth blade and get excellent results.
For a table top cut the laminate 3/4-1" longer than your material. Apply contact cement to both surfaces and allow to dry for about 10 minutes. place thin strips of wood across your table top and carefully position your laminate on them. Starting in the center remove one strip and press the laminate onto the wood. The trick is to move slowly towards the ends while not trapping any air under the laminate. They sell "J rollers" to apply pressure but a rolling pin works fine. As you move towards the ends remove the strips one at a time while pressing the laminate down. Go back to the middle and work your way to the other end. Now all that is left is to trim with a flush trim router bit with an end bearing. (This same process is used for veneer applications but that can be trimmed with a simple spring loaded cutter by hand) For the best results use laminate of both sides of your table top; this keeps moisture out and helps prevent warping. Both the smooth and rough finish laminates work fine for router tables. My next router table will feature "Mauve Nebula" Laminate, not because of the color, it was on clearance for a fraction of the regular price.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bill

If you you are going to use hard maple
You may want to check out the links below 

ROUTER WOODWORKING
The Router Table
Video: Five Essential Router-Table Jigs in Action

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gazippoman said:


> Bob J, I had planned on making my face with hard maple I have left over from completing my work bench. I have several pieces that at 3/4" X 5" and 1 3/4" X 4". Then i was going to use UHMW for the front face. I plan on securing it to the table with T-track.
> 
> As to the cabinet, I sorta like the one you have on your gallery (pic taken in 2007). I was going to make it the same height as my table saw, since i made my router top the size to fit in between the TS extensions (more room when stored.)
> 
> ...


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

Mike said:


> Bill, high pressure laminate is sold under different names around the world. Formica is one brand you will find. Stores like HD used to sell this in 2' x 4' sections but now they only sell by full sized sheets.(4' x 8') This material is easy to work with. I cut mine on my table saw with a 10" 80 tooth blade and get excellent results.
> For a table top cut the laminate 3/4-1" longer than your material. Apply contact cement to both surfaces and allow to dry for about 10 minutes. place thin strips of wood across your table top and carefully position your laminate on them. Starting in the center remove one strip and press the laminate onto the wood. The trick is to move slowly towards the ends while not trapping any air under the laminate. They sell "J rollers" to apply pressure but a rolling pin works fine. As you move towards the ends remove the strips one at a time while pressing the laminate down. Go back to the middle and work your way to the other end. Now all that is left is to trim with a flush trim router bit with an end bearing. (This same process is used for veneer applications but that can be trimmed with a simple spring loaded cutter by hand) For the best results use laminate of both sides of your table top; this keeps moisture out and helps prevent warping. Both the smooth and rough finish laminates work fine for router tables. My next router table will feature "Mauve Nebula" Laminate, not because of the color, it was on clearance for a fraction of the regular price.


Thanks Mike. I've already laminated the top and bottom of my table top. I didn't realize "high pressure laminate" was the same as using contact cement and formica.

Bill


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Bill
> 
> If you you are going to use hard maple
> You may want to check out the links below
> ...


Bob J, I hate to say that money IS a consideration! I don't think I could even afford the hardware for that first precision fence!

I think I'm going to try to make one with the features I've liked the best from the many I've looked at here on the forums and on line. When I get it finished, I'll certainly post pics.

Thanks for all the help Gents!!

Bill


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## hgporter (Feb 26, 2007)

Polyethylene Adhesives and Glue - What are your choices...

There are several ways to attach UHMW. There are no solvent glues, which is why this class of materials works. I have two rolls of UHMW that are 0.082" thick with an adhesive back. I like UHMW as a fence material. I would go 3/4 inch thick and use mechanical fasteners; countersink the heads.


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## donald201 (Oct 7, 2008)

*Walnut Fence*

I had a router table fence built with MDF. It seemed fine at first but after about 6 months of use the screws holding the T track loosened. The track held the fence to the aluminum plate. I tried glue and new screws. Didn't seem to work so I knew a new fence was in order. But before buying one I thought I would try building one.

So I saw a set of plans in Wood Magazine and built one out of walnut. I thought that if it was listed as hard wood this would work. So far it works fine and I will keep you posted on how it wears. I attached some photos of the completed fence.

Donald


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Yes, Shimming is the process of manipulating size with another material


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## BobH (Sep 11, 2008)

*Router fence material*

I used 1.25 inch high density MDF and laminated both faces and all edges with kitchen benchtop laminex to ensure there could be no variation in moisture content or ingress of same in our sub-tropical climate. High pressure laminate would have been ideal but the kitchen quality was on hand from another job.
I constructed the bench top the same way but with two sheets of 1.0 inch thick.
So far there has not been any change in dimensions.

BobH


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Don that's a solid nice fence you got

Nicolas


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## Vagabondking (Apr 8, 2009)

I just ordered a hms 400 fence from htc for $29 inc shipping, its made to fit on a htc table saw fence. It is aluminum & wood split fence. I guessed for $20. I could make it work for my 1st router table.

John


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## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

donald201 said:


> I had a router table fence built with MDF. It seemed fine at first but after about 6 months of use the screws holding the T track loosened. The track held the fence to the aluminum plate. I tried glue and new screws. Didn't seem to work so I knew a new fence was in order. But before buying one I thought I would try building one.
> 
> So I saw a set of plans in Wood Magazine and built one out of walnut. I thought that if it was listed as hard wood this would work. So far it works fine and I will keep you posted on how it wears. I attached some photos of the completed fence.
> 
> Donald


Hey Donald, that is one hiyu skookum router fence!! Nice work.


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