# Drill press recommendation



## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

I am looking for a floor model variable speed drill press. Would appreciate any recommendations.

Thank
Al


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I have a 20+ year old grizzly that I received a couple years ago. I cleaned it up, and it works great. Grizzly has a pretty good line of drill presses. 

One thing I will point out, is most drill presses are designed around metal working, and the tables really aren't designed well for woodworking. This is why you see so many plans for DP tables out on the Internet. There are two companies that make drill presses that really are geared towards woodworking with really nice tables that I believe can accept inserts to help prevent tear-out when drilling. One comes from Delta, which I am sure is a decent machine. However, Delta was recently bought by a new company and has been experiencing significant growing pains, so you may want to factor that into a purchase decision. Powermatic also makes a very nice drill press, and the company is on a much more solid footing right now. Both the Delta and Powermatic drill presses are expensive when compared to Grizzly and other brand drill presses.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

Thanks Mike

I have a few Grizzly machines and have been pleased. When I checked Grizzly they only showed 5 and 12 speed presses(not variable).

Al


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Al; mine's a JET and I like it well enough but as Mike (G316) suggested it's not perfect for woodworking. The two things that I would keep in mind is the depth of vertical movement (stroke), and the horizontal clearance to the column (swing). Those are both major limiting factors.
I might also add that although I certainly don't have a better design in mind, I really dislike the ergonomic limitation of the spoke type stroke handle (proper name?). I can't get a full downstroke without having to re-position my hand part way down. I think a steering wheel with a knob might be more user friendly; any thoughts?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I got my Jet in 1960 and it's great drill press it's the older type painted Green but has given many years of service and I still use it all the time..

==


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Older (>40 years) Iron often simpler and better than the new cheap (<$1000) machines.
Rockwell, for example.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I have a 15 or so year old Delta 16 1/2" and it works okay. I had to have it repaired from new. Dowels would fall out of the holes I drilled for them. I put a brad point bit in it and just touched the surface of a board and it scribed a circle that was 1/32" in diameter minimum. Out of 10 stars I would only give it about 5.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> Al; mine's a JET and I like it well enough but as Mike (G316) suggested it's not perfect for woodworking. The two things that I would keep in mind is the depth of vertical movement (stroke), and the horizontal clearance to the column (swing). Those are both major limiting factors.
> I might also add that although I certainly don't have a better design in mind, I really dislike the ergonomic limitation of the spoke type stroke handle (proper name?). I can't get a full downstroke without having to re-position my hand part way down. I think a steering wheel with a knob might be more user friendly; any thoughts?


Dan

I checked out Jet and they are a bit pricey for a variable speed ($1200 - $4000). My limit would be about $1000.00

You could always build yourself a hand crank. I recently built one for a router lift that I built for my nephews.

Thanks for the reply.



bobj3 said:


> I got my Jet in 1960 and it's great drill press it's the older type painted Green but has given many years of service and I still use it all the time..
> 
> ==


Bob

I have checked craig's list for older machines and I have not seen any in my area. I believe old iron was manufactured at a higher standard. Guess I will keep looking.

Thanks for the reply.



Cherryville Chuck said:


> I have a 15 or so year old Delta 16 1/2" and it works okay. I had to have it repaired from new. Dowels would fall out of the holes I drilled for them. I put a brad point bit in it and just touched the surface of a board and it scribed a circle that was 1/32" in diameter minimum. Out of 10 stars I would only give it about 5.


5 out of 10 does not seem to be what I'm in the market for. LOL

Al


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Another place to look: Products in Floor,Machinery,Drill Presses on Wholesale Tool


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

DaninVan said:


> Al; mine's a JET and I like it well enough but as Mike (G316) suggested it's not perfect for woodworking. The two things that I would keep in mind is the depth of vertical movement (stroke), and the horizontal clearance to the column (swing). Those are both major limiting factors.
> I might also add that although I certainly don't have a better design in mind, I really dislike the ergonomic limitation of the spoke type stroke handle (proper name?). I can't get a full downstroke without having to re-position my hand part way down. I think a steering wheel with a knob might be more user friendly; any thoughts?


I like that idea Dan. When I can get back out to the shop i'm going to look at mine (1980 Chicago Machinery 13") to see how tough it would be to retrofit. One initial thought is maybe a wooden disk with a centering hub and 3 u-bolts around the existing spokes. Handle attached to wheel with lock nut and nylon washer. Where to place the handle will depend on the beginning and end of a full stroke. 

earl


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Reinventing the wheel Earl? :sarcastic:


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Earl; I'm not the only one who really dislikes the traditional style? Wonder why no other options seem to exist?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> Earl; I'm not the only one who really dislikes the traditional style? Wonder why no other options seem to exist?


Good idea Dan. Reid Tool in the US sells hand wheels at reasonable prices. I will have to see if they have a large enough diameter one with the correct bore size to fit the spindle shaft on my press.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Charles; I'm sure I've seen the sort of thing that'd be perfect, on big coffee grinders.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Maybe something like these?
THERMOSET / Aluminum HANDWHEELS , Spindles


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## carlp. (Nov 3, 2012)

*drill press*

Hi Al have a look at the jet it has some good features.carl


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

Hi Carl

Glad to see you up and about. I hope you are doing well.

I have looked at the Jet presses and $1200 to $4000 is more than I want to spent. At present I have a 16" radial press that I can live with until I can find what I want at a reasonable price.

Al


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

I too am very interested in obtaining a drill press, but probably a bench type. One thing I do not understand is why a drill press should cost more than a top-rate router!


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

mftha said:


> I too am very interested in obtaining a drill press, but probably a bench type. One thing I do not understand is why a drill press should cost more than a top-rate router!


Tom, a router is really just a motor with handles and a collet, Drill press actually is a fair bit more complex than that.(I know its not quite that simple... ). Even if you were buying by the pound, The drill press would still cost more! Have you priced an induction motor of any size lately? That alone is equal to the cost of some routers!


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Dmeadows said:


> Tom, a router is really just a motor with handles and a collet, Drill press actually is a fair bit more complex than that.(I know its not quite that simple... ). Even if you were buying by the pound, The drill press would still cost more! Have you priced an induction motor of any size lately? That alone is equal to the cost of some routers!


Thanks very much, Duane., I had not thought in those terms, only in terms of the versatility of the two tools.

I have for decades appreciated the usefulness of drill presses (since 8th grade shop to be exact). I have even come down hard on companies that made equipment I used and very obviously did not use drill presses. I do not remember when I became aware of routers, but actually on the day I finally recognized that I should have a wheelchair I watched the Router Workshop for the first time, and watched it faithfully for as long as my PBS station carried it. I finally got a router and began using it after I was full time in a wheelchair. For many jobs a router can do what a drill press does, but some things are much more easily done with a drill press.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

A note on variable speed for drill presses. Nearly all of them change speeds via belt changes. I see the powermatic has what they label as a "mechanical speed control" which I am guessing is similar to a reeves style speed control, common on lathes.

Most drill presses use an induction motor. Single phase induction motors are locked into a single speed, which is why they user belts or other mechanical options for speed control. 3 phase induction motors can have an electronic variable speed control. In fact there are many high-end lathes that have a 3phase motor on them, then have an phase convertor built in so that they can be ran on house-hold single phase. They do this for the ability to have electronic variable speed.

Universal motors, which are smaller and lighter then induction motors are what you see on routers, other hand power tools, small bench top machines, and other direct drive tools, can have variable speed. 

The few drill presses that I have seen that have true EVS are 3phase, and are typically large industrial machines, costing a few thousand dollars. If you don't mind putting in a phase convertor, or have access to 3phase, you can find old industrial drill press fairly inexpensively. If you are looking for a new drill press, and are looking to stay under $1000, you are pretty much stuck with getting a drill press that requires belt changes to change the speed.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

Hey Mike

Thanks for the information. The variable speed is not a deal breaker but would be nice. In my search I have found 12 speed presses (belt change) that fall in the range of $300 to $1000 but my fear is how well built are they. I have not found any that I can try before I buy. I guess I will continue to search Craigs List until I can find something that I can try.

Thanks again
Al


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

NiceG316 said:


> A note on variable speed for drill presses. Nearly all of them change speeds via belt changes. I see the powermatic has what they label as a "mechanical speed control" which I am guessing is similar to a reeves style speed control, common on lathes.
> 
> Most drill presses use an induction motor. Single phase induction motors are locked into a single speed, which is why they user belts or other mechanical options for speed control. 3 phase induction motors can have an electronic variable speed control. In fact there are many high-end lathes that have a 3phase motor on them, then have an phase convertor built in so that they can be ran on house-hold single phase. They do this for the ability to have electronic variable speed.
> 
> ...


Variable speed? Exactly what I was thinking as I read this today.

I equate this to our discussion of bandsaws and variable speed motors or belt drive transmissions. Both drill presses or bandsaws need the most torque as the speed is decreased. Drill press = larger diameter bits... Bandsaw = sawing steel. With going to a smaller pulley to a larger pulley, you get that torque multipication. With a variable speed motor, such as a treadmill motor we discussed, when you vary the speed down, you loose torque.

Way back when I followed a project on the machinists board of a pulley driven with it's old motor, adaptive transmission and a variable speed tread mill motor, with an electric tachometer for determining speed... on a band saw. It worked for a bandsaw, because you get the inertial flywheel kind of effect help from the spinning weight of the wheels. You don't get that kind of help in a drill press.

***A note on 3-phase motors that gen there own 3 phase... It's a regular 3 phase motor, but it has help from something else to get itself started. To do that, 2 poles are hooked up, a separate one phase kicker motor has to physically get the 3 phase motor turning, for it to gen the 3rd pole's power... This is also how phase converter's work. They also have a transmission that kicks out the kicker motor, once the 3 phase motor is self sufficient. I've looked at lot's of plans out there for DIY phase converters.


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## rickster (Apr 5, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> I might also add that although I certainly don't have a better design in mind, I really dislike the ergonomic limitation of the spoke type stroke handle (proper name?). I can't get a full downstroke without having to re-position my hand part way down. I think a steering wheel with a knob might be more user friendly; any thoughts?


Take a rod lets just say 3/8 OD. Have it threaded on one end to fit where one current handles screw in. On the other end have it bent at a 90 degree angle. You will need a nut on the threaded part to lock it down to the spindle so the bend stays pointing out from the press. WIth a steering type wheel you will still have to re-grip.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Rick; thanks, I was using it today and actually took a closer look at the way it's put together, I think you may be on the right track!
Funny though, for some reason it wasn't as much of a nuisance today as I usually find it(?). Maybe my stance was somehow different?


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Good thought Rick. My levers are 5/16" but didn't remove one to check the threads. With the angle my holes are threaded at, it would take less than 90 degree bend. I have a 8 1/4" diameter Baltic disk 3/4 thick that is "scrap" that I was looking at last night. Can make the full 3 1/8" stroke in about 3/4 of a revolution, and with the disk I have in mind it's still an easy reach. 

We've strayed far from the OP's question--on the verge of hijacking the thread. When I make some progress on this modification i'll post it separately. 

earl


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Al likely gave up on us...


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

boogalee said:


> Hey Mike
> 
> Thanks for the information. The variable speed is not a deal breaker but would be nice. In my search I have found 12 speed presses (belt change) that fall in the range of $300 to $1000 but my fear is how well built are they. I have not found any that I can try before I buy. I guess I will continue to search Craigs List until I can find something that I can try.
> 
> ...


Hi Al,
I actually own 2 drill presses, a craftsman bench top (6? speed) that is about 7-8 years old, and the grizzly 12 speed floor model that is about 20 years. (and use both far more frequently then you would think!) Both do the job well. The costs difference primarily come down to what is on it, such as the number of speeds, HP of the motor, if it has guide lasers on it, a digital speed read out, the table on it, and so on. Except for maybe the bottom feeding brand bench-top models, the quality is typically there. If I had to buy one new today, I would probably by a mid-range model and make my own table for it.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> Al likely gave up on us...


Never would I give up on you guys.:laugh:



NiceG316 said:


> Hi Al,
> I actually own 2 drill presses, a craftsman bench top (6? speed) that is about 7-8 years old, and the grizzly 12 speed floor model that is about 20 years. (and use both far more frequently then you would think!) Both do the job well. The costs difference primarily come down to what is on it, such as the number of speeds, HP of the motor, if it has guide lasers on it, a digital speed read out, the table on it, and so on. Except for maybe the bottom feeding brand bench-top models, the quality is typically there. If I had to buy one new today, I would probably by a mid-range model and make my own table for it.


I now have a old (15 to 20 yrs) 16"radial press with a home made table. It works ok but it is old. I think it is time to upgrade but I am not in a hurry. I think I will find something if I look long enough.

Al


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

I've had my 33 year old 13" for a year and a half. When I was looking the idea of a radial made sense to me. Use mine a lot, but would love to try a radial head. Just seems to make sense in woodworking. How much do you use that feature Al?

earl


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

greenacres2 said:


> I've had my 33 year old 13" for a year and a half. When I was looking the idea of a radial made sense to me. Use mine a lot, but would love to try a radial head. Just seems to make sense in woodworking. How much do you use that feature Al?
> 
> earl


Hey Earl

To be very precise NEVER. When I first purchased the press it seemed like a good idea but never found a good use for it.

Al


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Thanks Al--makes me feel better about my $50 or $80 CL purchase!!
earl


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Al; 15 - 20yrs. old?! That's barely broken in! I've got shoes oldern' that...
Why not just do a a major clean and restore on it? New belts, maybe new motor if it needs it?


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> Al; 15 - 20yrs. old?! That's barely broken in! I've got shoes oldern' that...
> Why not just do a a major clean and restore on it? New belts, maybe new motor if it needs it?


Dan

That would be a good idea but I would have to clean my shop first.:lol:

I may replace the vbelt with a link belt and see if there is a improvement.

Thanks
Al


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

*crank up tabe*

Hi Al. One thing that will be important to me if I buy a new one will be a crank up table. My ancient 300 pound Craftsman has the table that you loosen the clamp, then wiggle the table up or down to where you want it.

Since it's all cast iron, the table alone weighs a good 40 or so pounds and is a back breaker to move and get centered. Recently I loosened the clamp too much and when it got away from me and fell, it cracked the plastic case on a drill that was lying on the base. Better the drill than my foot, though.

Maybe all the new drill presses have the crank table, I haven't shopped yet. But if not, it's really worth considering. If you look at second-hand presses it would be a question to ask. Jim


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

I am about to reveal profound ignorance on the subject od drill presses.
I have been looking at a Fox Shop radial bench top drill press but I need to understand some of the terminology and features.
First, can drill presses use the same drill bits as hand drills? The taper has me questioning this issue.
What is the swing? How does it differ from table swing? Sometime I see swing expressed in degrees, sometimes in inches.
I am a weekend/vacation hobbyist with great ambitions.
One final consideration: I cannot stand, and the way the footrests are set I cannot get very close to something unless I can get under it.

Finally, is the Fox Shop radial drill press model 1669 a good choice for me?

Thanks very much.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

For swing, think of a circle that you want to drill a hole in the middle of. The swing would be the max diameter circle you could fit onto the drill press without the the back post getting in the way.

I know of a number of woodworkers that have a radial drill press, and the one thing I hear consistently is that they don't take advantage of the extra adjustments that a radial drill press offers, largely because of difficulties in setting it up. From a cost stand point, I just did a few checks and they are less expensive then the non-radial counter parts. From that stand point, I think once you have it setup it will be a good machine, even if you only ever use it as a traditional drill press.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

To add to the last post: On Radial Drill presses, the *swing* is adjustable... meaning that the power unit is on an arm coming from the column and is adjustable to and from that column.

*Angle* refers to some tables that besides pivoting around the column and going up and down the column, they have an additional adjustment to tile the table at an angle.

Most drill presses have the chuck mounted as a friction fit on a taper on the quill. There are a few standards for the taper size and angle, so that chucks can be interchanged.

Speeds are divided into two grounds. One way is a series of pulleys. The other way is variable speed through a motor controller.

Bench mount means it is not a full floor stand height. Since you are in a chair, note the height as some bench models are still high.

Some tables raises by loosening a collar and manually lifting or lowering the table, while others have a rack and pinion and raise/lower by loosening a collar then turning a crank.

That's just a few things I can think of off the top of my head.

If you are going to use it for wood working, think about an add on table with a fence. Think about whether you what the table to tilt to drill at an angle. Think about where the controls are for "you", especially how the table lowers and raises and how the speed changes.

I find no challenge to setting up a radial drill press to drill a hole- I clamp the pice to where the hole needs to be drilled. If it needs adjustment from there, move the head radially, pivot the table, move a fence if you have one, raise lower your table, adjust your depth stop... Once you get used to whatever equipment you end up with, you'll learn and adapt.

Talking with a couple woodworkers this morning, we didn't know just how much we needed a drill press until after we all got one... then wondered how we did without one before that.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

mftha said:


> I am about to reveal profound ignorance on the subject od drill presses.
> I have been looking at a Fox Shop radial bench top drill press but I need to understand some of the terminology and features.
> First, can drill presses use the same drill bits as hand drills? The taper has me questioning this issue.
> What is the swing? How does it differ from table swing? Sometime I see swing expressed in degrees, sometimes in inches.
> ...


Tom, if the the drill press has a chuck like a handheld drill then it uses the same bits except possibly larger shanks. The tapered shank bits are used on much larger machines than most of us would buy. A bench top model is probably your best bet, as a floor model would be impossible to get under or even really close to except from the side and with your chair turned sideways which would be awkward. You may find it easier to turn the bench top model to get close enough but that shouldn't cause you problems.

I don't know that specific model but hopefully it has a depth stop on it as this is one of the most useful features in my opinion. With a depth stop you can drill for things like the euro style cup hinges without fear of over drilling and punching through.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> A bench top model is probably your best bet, as a floor model would be impossible to get under or even really close to except from the side and with your chair turned sideways which would be awkward. You may find it easier to turn the bench top model to get close enough but that shouldn't cause you problems.


I know one fellow that has a DP mounted to the ceiling.
Don't laugh. It works. Perfect for wheelchair use.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

NiceG316 said:


> For swing, think of a circle that you want to drill a hole in the middle of. The swing would be the max diameter circle you could fit onto the drill press without the the back post getting in the way.
> 
> I know of a number of woodworkers that have a radial drill press, and the one thing I hear consistently is that they don't take advantage of the extra adjustments that a radial drill press offers, largely because of difficulties in setting it up. From a cost stand point, I just did a few checks and they are less expensive then the non-radial counter parts. From that stand point, I think once you have it setup it will be a good machine, even if you only ever use it as a traditional drill press.


Thanks very much, Mike. Your explanation of swing is the best, and most relevant, I have seen.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

MAFoElffen said:


> To add to the last post: On Radial Drill presses, the *swing* is adjustable... meaning that the power unit is on an arm coming from the column and is adjustable to and from that column.
> 
> *Angle* refers to some tables that besides pivoting around the column and going up and down the column, they have an additional adjustment to tile the table at an angle.
> 
> ...


Thanks very much, Mike. The adjustable swing on the radial drill presses seems to me to be a valuable feature. The adjustable angle is a feature I have found in many that I have looked, but I can't think of when I would use it, either of the table or the power unit.

I cannot imagine changing the chuck so long as I an use the power hand drill bits and Forstner bits I have.

I would have to reach up a bit to operate the spindle control, but I should be abler. O use it. 

This particular model uses a rack an pinion mechanism but the table does not have a fence. I am not certain how the workpiece is clamped to the table. I am thinking of getting, for example, the mlcs table.

This model is a belt speed control, and it seems that changing the speed will be challenging for me. Is there a "best" speed for wood and polycarbonate?

I suspect I will join your circle of woodworkers who will wonder how they ever got on without one.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Tom, if the the drill press has a chuck like a handheld drill then it uses the same bits except possibly larger shanks. The tapered shank bits are used on much larger machines than most of us would buy. A bench top model is probably your best bet, as a floor model would be impossible to get under or even really close to except from the side and with your chair turned sideways which would be awkward. You may find it easier to turn the bench top model to get close enough but that shouldn't cause you problems.
> 
> I don't know that specific model but hopefully it has a depth stop on it as this is one of the most useful features in my opinion. With a depth stop you can drill for things like the euro style cup hinges without fear of over drilling and punching through.


Charles, thank you very much. You have exactly nailed why I am looking at bench top models. You have described how many things are so awkward for me, and I do not need another one!

I am greatly relieved to learn that I won't need to buy a new set of bits. The taper on this model is JT 33.

I don't know abut a depth stop, but I would hope the rack and pinion height adjustment would serve the same purpose.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

AxlMyk said:


> I know one fellow that has a DP mounted to the ceiling.
> Don't laugh. It works. Perfect for wheelchair use.


That is an ingenious idea! If I had a permanent workshop I would certainly consider ceiling mount for it. Thanks Mike.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

mftha said:


> Charles, than you very much. You have exactly nailed why I am looking at bench top models. You have described how many things are so awkward for me, and I do not need another one!
> 
> I am greatly relieved to learn that I won't need to buy a new set of bits. The taper on this model is JT 33.
> 
> I don't know abut a depth stop, but I would hope the rack and pinion height adjustment would serve the same purpose.


Tom, that drill press might take tapered shank bits but I would think it comes with a drill chuck mounted on a JT33 taper shank like this Google Image Result for http://www.lathemaster.com/images/jacobs_-_mt3_-_s.jpg. If the chuck looks like the one on your handheld drill then it takes the same bits probably up to 1/2" or even 5/8" diameter shank.

I have an old lathe that takes taper shank bits but I also have a drill chuck on a tapered shank for driving small bits. You don't need tapered shanks for small bits. If you look at the pictures in this link Tapered Drill Bit | eBay you see that most of the bits are fairly large and they have a tang on the end of the shank to prevent them from spinning out in the drill.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

Tom

What model shop fox press are you looking at.

Al


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

boogalee said:


> Tom
> 
> What model shop fox press are you looking at.
> 
> Al


First, Al I hope very much you do not feel I have hijacked your thread.

The drill press I am looking at is the Fox Shop model 1669 radial bench drill press.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Tom, that drill press might take tapered shank bits but I would think it comes with a drill chuck mounted on a JT33 taper shank like this Google Image Result for http://www.lathemaster.com/images/jacobs_-_mt3_-_s.jpg. If the chuck looks like the one on your handheld drill then it takes the same bits probably up to 1/2" or even 5/8" diameter shank.
> 
> I have an old lathe that takes taper shank bits but I also have a drill chuck on a tapered shank for driving small bits. You don't need tapered shanks for small bits. If you look at the pictures in this link Tapered Drill Bit | eBay you see that most of the bits are fairly large and they have a tang on the end of the shank to prevent them from spinning out in the drill.


The chuck does look just like one on a handheld held drill. The only differences I can discern from afar is the 5/8 in capacity and he JT-33 taper in the specs.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

:yes4:


mftha said:


> First, Al I hope very much you do not feel I have hijacked your thread.
> 
> The drill press I am looking at is the Fox Shop model 1669 radial bench drill press.


Tom

You have not hi jacked my thread. It is about drill presses and that is what we are talking about.

The 1669 has a chuck that accepts regular straight bits. The taper is on the opposite end of the chuck (where it mounts in the spindle). From what I can see it has a depth stop. I would not try to use the rack and pinion height adjustment for the stop adjustment. As soon as Daninvan designs a better spindle handle we in in good shape. :yes4: I would recommend you built an aux table and fence. I built my table out of 3/4" melamine and the fence is aluminum angle.

Seems like a nice press for $292.00 w/ free shipping (Amazon W1669).

Have you read any reviews on this model?

Al


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

boogalee said:


> :yes4:
> 
> Tom
> 
> ...


Thanks very much for the information and for starting this thread.

The manufacturer's info almost seems too good to be true, especially for the price. The reviews are mixed. Some say it is the best ever especially at the price. It is clear that this model would not be found in a professional shop. On the other end the are complaints about missing and broken parts, etc. and comments about how you get what you pay for. I am a little intimidated by the downloadable owners manual that details assembly of it. Aside from that it seems to meet my needs, as an amateur hobbyist woodworker.

We will find out soon because I have ordered it from Amazon.com. I will provide my own review once I get it set up and use it for my immediate requirements.
I am strongly considering adding the MLCS table which includes a fence and also getting, and it seems very important to me, the optional t-track hold downs.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

boogalee said:


> :yes4:
> 
> Tom
> 
> ...


When Dan mentioned his idea for a handle this is what I pictured, but it would need to be a large enough diameter to get the leverage you would need. Item No: A43-5R [ A43-5R 5 inch Diameter Cast Iron Straight Three-Spoke Hand Wheel with Revolving Handle and 3/8 inch Bore]


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> When Dan mentioned his idea for a handle this is what I pictured, but it would need to be a large enough diameter to get the leverage you would need. Item No: A43-5R [ A43-5R 5 inch Diameter Cast Iron Straight Three-Spoke Hand Wheel with Revolving Handle and 3/8 inch Bore]


The picture I had in my head when Dan mentioned that... I have some aluminum handwheels that have fold out handles. I was thinking if the stop for those handles where filed/ground back so they extended out more... then they would have more leverage. Just what was pictured in my head.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> When Dan mentioned his idea for a handle this is what I pictured, but it would need to be a large enough diameter to get the leverage you would need. Item No: A43-5R [ A43-5R 5 inch Diameter Cast Iron Straight Three-Spoke Hand Wheel with Revolving Handle and 3/8 inch Bore]


As soon as I figure out how to remove the current handle I think I will make a 7" wheel. Sounds like a good project for next week.

Al


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

Tom

Let us know your opinion. I would be interested.

Al


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## adnan (Oct 8, 2012)

Thanks Mike


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## darklion99 (Jan 22, 2013)

*Rockwell Delta 1951 Drill Press worth $200?*

(Moved to new thread)


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## darklion99 (Jan 22, 2013)

Charlie, I can't find the Steel City 17" drill press available any more - popular and available about 3 years ago.

If Al is still looking, I don't know if you looked at the Jet DP-12, 12 inch benchtop drill press. For about $200 you can get the identical DP (rebranded) at Menards, it is called MasterForce 12" desktop variable speed drill press, here: 12" Masterforce Drill Press at Menards

I was looking at that one, and the highly regarded HF 13" Benchtop heavy duty 16-speed DP. I went with the HF because it has a more powerful motor (3/4 instead of 2/3 HP) and because of the 200 lowest speed for metal drilling (the Jet/Masterforce has a low speed of 530).

They are ALL made in China.

My HF DP seems pretty good. Has a .005 runout ( 5 1/thousand) which is not bad. It has rave reviews according to many wood working forums.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Charlie-

People might not know or realize this... Home Depot doesn't carry Steel City Tools here in the Northwest.

I see it online through HD online, but not locally here in stores at either Lowes or Home Depot. Just like I think "Mike" said Lowes carried Steel City in Chicago... I didn't even know Steel City was a brand until he told me that. So, not sure... Owners of that brand seem very loyal and love them.

Looking at their website, they sell through distributors:
Steel City Tool Works - Distributors 
... and seem well represented through the States and Canada. So looking for a distributor might bring better luck for that. I see that Steal City offers two 17" floor model drill presses.


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## Alan Bienlein (Oct 17, 2009)

boogalee said:


> I am looking for a floor model variable speed drill press. Would appreciate any recommendations.
> 
> Thank
> Al


Don't know what area of the US your in but here in Texas just south of Houston is a variable speed drill press on craigslist for $125.
Drill Press








It kind of looks just like the model I just bought for $150 on craigslist.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

SawSucker said:


> Yeah, I just looked to see where the original poster is from. He is from Alabama the way it looks, and Steel City doesn't show an outlet in Alabama, so he may have to do a search in a surrounding state, or order one online when they are available. The Steel City model 20525 is the model that has the variable speed lever on the side of the drill press, which is what I think is he's looking for. It would be nice if he'd jump back into the conversation to give his thoughts on the Steel City, and to let us know weather or not he is still looking.


Hi Charlie

I am still looking for a drill press. I have read the specs on line at Home Depot and it states that it is a variable speed but then says it has 5 speeds. I would consider Steel City (or any other) that changing speeds did not involve moving the belt from pulley to pulley. Tomorrow I will run over to Home Depot and see if they have a unit on display.

Does anyone have the Steel City model 20525 and can add any input?

I live in Metairie Louisiana just outside of New Orleans.




Scratchndent said:


> Charlie, I can't find the Steel City 17" drill press available any more - popular and available about 3 years ago.
> 
> If Al is still looking, I don't know if you looked at the Jet DP-12, 12 inch benchtop drill press. For about $200 you can get the identical DP (rebranded) at Menards, it is called MasterForce 12" desktop variable speed drill press, here: 12" Masterforce Drill Press at Menards
> 
> ...


Robert

Thank you for your response and link to Menards.

I am leaning more to a floor model than a bench top. I haven't checked HF because I am afraid that something like run out could vary from press to press. I own a few HF tools and they do what they are supposed to do but their quality control leaves something to be desired. I would not like to receive a press with major run out and have to bring it back (many times).

Thanks again
Al


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## Alan Bienlein (Oct 17, 2009)

SawSucker said:


> It amazes me how people just don't put much effort into trying to sell their used machines. That Craigslist ad is pretty pathetic. It doesn't say what brand and model number that it is, or even show the front of the machine. It may even be 3 phase for all we know. I won't waste my time with sellers like that.


I tell you what the picture for the one I bought wasn't very good either but look what I ended up with!

That isn't a three phase motor because the one hump on the back of the motor is the start cap housing. It also looks identical to mine from that angle. If it is the same type as mine thats a steel of a price for a 426 lb drill press with variable speed and 6" of quill travel.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

As a note, like the Powermatic drill press the variable speed is achieved with a Reeves drive, so it is a mechanical variable speed, rather than electronic variable speed. These typically work well, and have been used on lathes and other machines for many many years. With the reeves drive, you can only change the speed while the motor is running. Looking at the price, I believe that is the only drill press under $1000 that offers the reeves drive, along with the 6" travel of the quill. Definitely worthwhile looking into.


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## tool613 (Apr 7, 2013)

here is what i did for a vs drill press.

video one testing
Delta 17 " drill press with VFD - YouTube

video two finished
1943 Delta 17-600 with VFD - YouTube



forum thread


http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/40981-thinning-drill-press-heard-120-volt-vfd.html

jack
English machines


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