# Table Saw Tip



## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Since I'm basically self-taught, it took me 30 years to figure this out. (I'm a little slow, OK?) Many of you already know this I'm sure but maybe it will help somebody. 

Raise the tablesaw blade to near its maximum height. Take a good straightedge and lay it alongside the left side of the blade, making sure it contacts the teeth, not the blade body, at front and back. Use a utility knife to scribe a line from the blade to the front of the table. The cast iron table is soft and will mark easily. Repeat for the right side of the blade. 

You now have two parallel lines that show exactly where the wood will contact the blade before it actually gets to the blade. It's especially helpful when using the miter gauge. I used a sharpie to color between the lines on the wooden insert.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

very good..
thanks...


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Good idea. Of course it is blade dependent.

My first table saw (Craptsman circa 1980) had something called exact-i-cut that worked like that only it was erasable. I did use it some.








My current saw (Griz 1023) doesn't have this. I use a knife to scribe the cut line on the leading edge of my cross cut workpiece. Then I run the piece up to contacting a tooth on the blade and use the scribed line to align to the keeper side of the blade. With care, I can get well better than 1/64" precision (which I believe most would call dead-on).


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

That's a pretty cool idea Andy , Thanks for sharing


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

PhilBa said:


> Good idea. Of course it is blade dependent.
> 
> My first table saw (Craptsman circa 1980) had something called exact-i-cut that worked like that only it was erasable. I did use it some.
> 
> ...


I like that . Too bad more manufactures didn't think of that one 

Patent maybe ?


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Nice...thanks for sharing...


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## nkawtg (Nov 5, 2015)

Great tip, thanks for that.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I have the Craftsman type and use it all the time. Have to remember to change the mark when you change blades tho.

Herb


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

I made a sacrificial insert for the end of my EB3 Miter gauge, and use the kerf cut into it to line up my cut line. You can do the same thing by attaching a piece of wood to a standard miter gauge. Another quick and dirty method is to set your mark to the cut line in a zero clearance insert cut specifically for the current saw blade.

Instead of scratching a line in the table top, perhaps you could put a piece of masking tape near the front of the table to mark the kerf.


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Sure is a good tip. Been doing similar for several years.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Nice.


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## rpludwig (Nov 22, 2011)

great idea, and now I know what that yellow plastic insert is for on my old (recently acquired) craftsman table saw! Good thread...


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

Sorry Andy, I don't want to be super critical here but it looks like I'm the only one that doesn't like this idea. For starters it would appear to me that the marks are specific to that blade (or that width blade) only. Change the blade and those "very permanent" marks would be no more useful than your eye or whatever method you used prior. Secondly, I try hard to take care of the most important tool in my shop: my table saw, and I'm not putting any permanent marks, scratches or grooves in my nice cast iron table. If I found these marks useful or necessary for a particular project I may use a fine tip felt pen. 
Hank


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Bricknhank said:


> Sorry Andy, I don't want to be super critical here but it looks like I'm the only one that doesn't like this idea. For starters it would appear to me that the marks are specific to that blade (or that width blade) only. Change the blade and those "very permanent" marks would be no more useful than your eye or whatever method you used prior. Secondly, I try hard to take care of the most important tool in my shop: my table saw, and I'm not putting any permanent marks, scratches or grooves in my nice cast iron table. If I found these marks useful or necessary for a particular project I may use a fine tip felt pen.
> Hank


"To each his own", said the old woman as she kissed the cow. I don't believe my tablesaw feels abused at all. Yes, the marks are permanent and blade width specific. However, all of my blades are 1/8 kerf, except for my dado. So, it works for me. It's just an idea that I found helpful in my everyday shop experience. It ain't for the weak of heart.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Nice idea if using a wide kerf only.


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## ksidwy (Jul 13, 2013)

Very good tip, Andy. Thanks for posting!
Sid.


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## David Dickson (Oct 30, 2015)

TheCableGuy said:


> I like that . Too bad more manufactures didn't think of that one
> 
> Patent maybe ?


Got something almost identical on my Bosch GTS 10 XC (european cousin of the 4100-09).


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## furboo (Oct 12, 2015)

David Dickson said:


> Got something almost identical on my Bosch GTS 10 XC (european cousin of the 4100-09).


Right...my 4100 has the same thing. If I didn't, I'd prefer to scribe a zero-clearance insert, instead of the steel top.


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## marc7101 (Jul 14, 2015)

Nice tip, thanks


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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

See what RatBob posted. 

Extend the sacrificial wood sub-fence past the blade and if the blade is not too high to cut through it, the sub-fence will act as a "sweep" to clear any cut offs away from the blade.

Found 3/4" MDF works very well for sub-fence material. 

Sacrificial sub-fence on my Incra 1000Se is 2 1/2 x 25" and extends 6" to the right of the blade. 

I have a ready supply of pre-bored for the mounting screws and cut to length and width sub-fences on hand. OEM miter gauge is "dado dedicated" with a sub-fence.


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