# Trim bit for sizing door down



## Sungm (Aug 11, 2010)

Hi,

I try to replace the existing interior hollow door with a new solid frame door which is a little larger than the existing door.

Can I use Router top ball bearing trim bit ( 3/4" diameter, 2" cutting edge, 1/2 shank) to shave door edge to fit in the frame after rough cutting door with portable power saw?

Some suggest using power plane, jack plane, or power belt sander. I have not seen any suggestion for Router bit method. The router bit method seems saving time compared with other methods.

Any suggestion or opinion?

I would appreciate for the help.

Sungm


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Sungm

You didn't say how much you need to remove from the door to get it to fit the opening, many door opening are 1/2" to 3/4" bigger than the door, you may want to check if you can move the door frame out to get it to fit, than make a new top part for the door frame..  cutting the bottom off of the door is no big deal but the hinge side of the door is a big deal..in that case I would suggest a good power saw or table saw for the job..

========



Sungm said:


> Hi,
> 
> I try to replace the existing interior hollow door with a new solid frame door which is a little larger than the existing door.
> 
> ...


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Sungm said:


> Hi,
> 
> I try to replace the existing interior hollow door with a new solid frame door which is a little larger than the existing door.
> 
> ...


Hi - Welcome to the forum
If I'm taking very much off a door, I will use a fine finish blade on the circular saw and use an edge guide against the foot. With a solid door, take equal amounts of both hinge and latch side, hollow core, I will take most off the latch side. Any saw blade marks usually succumb pretty quickly to a belt sander. Then bevel the edges with a bearing guided champfer bit. 
Top bearing bit will work for very light adjustments but you will still need a straight guide for the bearing. This could give you some balance issues as you will either need a wide and flat enough guide to run the router on or rig something to compensate. 
Good luck


----------



## Sungm (Aug 11, 2010)

*Router bit method for shaving door*



jschaben said:


> Hi - Welcome to the forum
> If I'm taking very much off a door, I will use a fine finish blade on the circular saw and use an edge guide against the foot. With a solid door, take equal amounts of both hinge and latch side, hollow core, I will take most off the latch side. Any saw blade marks usually succumb pretty quickly to a belt sander. Then bevel the edges with a bearing guided champfer bit.
> Top bearing bit will work for very light adjustments but you will still need a straight guide for the bearing. This could give you some balance issues as you will either need a wide and flat enough guide to run the router on or rig something to compensate.
> Good luck


Thanks for suggestion.

In fact, I made rectangular router base and 8-foot long aluminum edge guide ( 2 inch wide x 96 inch long). And I made a temporary plastic measure to set the distance between the edge of 3/4" diameter trim bit and the edge guide. Once setting the guide for the desired cut line, I am thinking to push the router along the edge guide. In this method, I don't think top bearing bit is necessary. A straight bit seems enough since I try to use the long edge guide to trim the sides of the door. Can I try several passes for smooth shaving?

Thanks again for your further suggestion.

Sungm


----------



## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hi sungm,
How much do you need to cut? I've installed many doors. I size the doors I install in a pre-existing jamb a 1/4" narrower than the opening to give a 1/8" reveal around door sides & top. Height would be 1/8" at top to match reveal on sides & 3/8" to 1/2" on bottom for air flow. 

I use table saw or a Skilsaw (circular saw) if cutting on site. I think a saw is much more efficient for this type of operation. If only a little trim you could use a plane to trim. To much with a belt sander could leave a door edge with many dips along the edge. you can clean up any saw marks with sandpaper & a sanding block (piece of wood) & ease the freshly cut edges. I only use a router on a door to mortise out for hinges & strike plates.


----------



## jetpilot (Jul 7, 2010)

Sungm said:


> Hi,
> 
> I try to replace the existing interior hollow door with a new solid frame door which is a little larger than the existing door.
> 
> ...


----------



## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the RouterForums Sungm. Glad to have you as a member of the community.


----------



## misterboo (Aug 25, 2007)

I have to agree with the saw and plane crew here. I've trimmed more than a few doors and it's the way to go.

-Bill


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Since this is a router use forum, we'll go that route.
Clamp a straightedge along the door to run the bearing against.
Your bit will do just fine.


----------

