# Got any ideas to rework these corners?



## tom819800 (Apr 9, 2010)

The material is 1 3/4 thick Cherry I think. I found it in the garage and decided to play with it. I think its Cherry. It was two pieces of badly warped wood joined together. 
It is now four pieces that I ran through the thickness planer to take the warp out. Then I ran it through the jointer to square everything up. I threw my biscuit joiner in the garbage I cant seem to get a correct cut with it. So I sent everything through the router table and made a half inch slot and filledwith the correct size wood. (Way easier than a biscuit joiner)
I dont have a band saw otherwise I would have cut the corners earlier in the process. It doest seem very smart to attack it with a jig saw. I was thinking about recutting the corner with the 2" bit I have in the picture, but how to set this radius up is leaving me puzzled.. the end shape of the corner doesnt really matter. ...what do you think? I searched the Jig forms and didnt find anything.


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## tom819800 (Apr 9, 2010)

Im half tempted to cut off the bottom of a bucket and clamp it on....


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

Whats wrong with a jig saw? I think if you go slow it will work great, make your cut and sand to the line, or you can make a profile of the radi that you wish out of a piece of 
1/2" mdf, hot melt glue it down in a few places(or double sided tape) and cut out your corner with a guide bushing and a straight bit or a flush trim bit. 
for example
this if your using a router table. C1354Z Shear Cut Flush Trim Bits, 1/2" Shank, 1/2" Dia.

and this if its hand held
C1306Z 1/2" Pattern Cutting Straight Bit, 1/4" Shank


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## tom819800 (Apr 9, 2010)

Thanks Rick very helpful. I just cant seem to think today


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

Like Rick said. I would just make a template. heres a little trick I use on corner radius templates, I cut the leading and trailing edges going into the radius at 5 degrees that way I have a smooth transition to the tanagent of the radius from the straight edge to the start and end of the radius.

See the PDF. 

I put the template on the work with double sided tape, and line up the start and end of the radius (not the angles) in other words the start and end of the template is actually away from the peice, and the cut starts and ends with a very small 5 degree lead in and lead out, (No skype or divot); I use a flush trim bit.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

tom819800 said:


> The material is 1 3/4 thick Cherry I think. I found it in the garage and decided to play with it. I think its Cherry. It was two pieces of badly warped wood joined together.
> It is now four pieces that I ran through the thickness planer to take the warp out. Then I ran it through the jointer to square everything up. I threw my biscuit joiner in the garbage I cant seem to get a correct cut with it. So I sent everything through the router table and made a half inch slot and filledwith the correct size wood. (Way easier than a biscuit joiner)
> I dont have a band saw otherwise I would have cut the corners earlier in the process. It doest seem very smart to attack it with a jig saw. I was thinking about recutting the corner with the 2" bit I have in the picture, but how to set this radius up is leaving me puzzled.. the end shape of the corner doesnt really matter. ...what do you think? I searched the Jig forms and didnt find anything.


A simple quickly made jig like this does a perfect job, ensuring all corners are identical.


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## BearLeeAlive (Mar 22, 2010)

What I would do is to make a template of 1/4 MDF of the corner profile, double tape to the top surface, then trim with a flush trim bit with a top bearing. You could also do it with a bottom bearing bit like Harry shows if that is what you have.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

I would say the same as Jim's post,,BUT because you said you have the bit in the picture and it does not have a bearing on I would suggest you pickup a 3/4" brass guide and use in the base of your router, it's cheaper than buying a LONG trim bit that you will need to use on the thicker lumber you have , you can get a guide (9 pcs). set for about 15.oo bucks or so..from HF, they will do the trick...than cut your 1/2" stock with your jig saw for your corner template and with a little bit of sanding to make it true and than clamp in the corners and go for it.. 

Note,,, because it's cherry it would be best to clip the corners with the jig saw so the router bit can do it's job easy  to get that nice clean cut.

http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-router-template-guide-set-98361.html
==


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## tom819800 (Apr 9, 2010)

I cant belive it I had just about wrote a book and I pushed the back button on my mouse (deleted). When the polyurathane drys Ill let you guys know how I did it till then heres how the corners turned out..


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

tom819800 said:


> I cant belive it I had just about wrote a book and I pushed the back button on my mouse (deleted). When the polyurathane drys Ill let you guys know how I did it till then heres how the corners turned out..


Hi Tom - I don't care if you sacrificed a chicken --- that looks good:dance3:


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## tom819800 (Apr 9, 2010)

Thanks John. I really wish I took some before pictures.


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

works for me , nice job.


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## tom819800 (Apr 9, 2010)

*disaster*

this is what it looked like when I left it.....i came back in the morning and there were foot prints from a cat in the polyurathane....arghhhhh .... Im gonna have to start over with the finish...guess i should have shut the window...


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

jd99 said:


> Like Rick said. I would just make a template. heres a little trick I use on corner radius templates, I cut the leading and trailing edges going into the radius at 5 degrees that way I have a smooth transition to the tanagent of the radius from the straight edge to the start and end of the radius.
> 
> See the PDF.
> 
> I put the template on the work with double sided tape, and line up the start and end of the radius (not the angles) in other words the start and end of the template is actually away from the peice, and the cut starts and ends with a very small 5 degree lead in and lead out, (No skype or divot); I use a flush trim bit.


Hi Danny:

When you were laying out your pattern, did you try a french curve? Alternatively, an ellipse will give you the same effect but with a smoother transition.


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Danny:
> 
> When you were laying out your pattern, did you try a french curve? Alternatively, an ellipse will give you the same effect but with a smoother transition.


Actually if you line up the tangent points (start and stop) of the radius to the edge of the part there is no transition to speak of, what little bit of angle if there is any never shows.

This is how corner rounding dies are made in the metal stamping industry they all have a 2 to 5 degree angle (most of the time it is 5 degree) leading in and out of the radius. I made litterly thousands of corner rounding dies in my years as a tool and die maker this way, and if the stops/guides are set up right the angle doesn't show nor does the start and end points of the cut.

I just adapted it to wood working. :yes4:


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