# Watco Danish Oil?



## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I woke up really early this mourning so to the shop I went. I am finishing three weather stations I made for Christmas presents. They are made with red oak and I am finishing them with Watco Danish oil in the color golden oak. This is the first time I have used Watco so do I put more than one coat on and should I put a clear coat on? I get the impression that a clear coat isn't needed. If there is other information I might need to know please let me know.

My first impression is this won't be the last time I use Watco.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

I'd go with a 2nd coat after a 24hr cure time just to insure good penetration in a porous wood like red oak. Beyond that, its just a matter of personnel preference. Additional coats: may slightly alter the appearance (not a bad thing), build up the finish for additional protection if needed. Since these are not high wear items, you can easily just leave em alone (which is great for touch-ups down the road) or just put a good paste wax on em.. Lots of reasons to like basic oil finishes


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

Bill.........I've had good luck with Watco. Just be sure to give it plenty of cure time after the second coat before handling it much. Touch an inconspicuous area and make sure there's not a "gummy" feeling to it.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

chessnut2 said:


> Bill.........I've had good luck with Watco. Just be sure to* give it plenty of cure time *after the second coat before handling it much. Touch an inconspicuous area and make sure there's not a "gummy" feeling to it.



Absooooooooooooooooooooooooolutely!!!!:smile:


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Something I like to do is safe the cutoff's from a project as it progress's. Take a few of those cutoff's and just experiment with different finish schedules if I'm not sure of what direction I want to go in. Doing this during the build is always kind of laid back and not done in any hurry. When it comes time to apply a finish to a project I then have a pretty good idea of what the piece is going to look like and how to go about it. As often as not, I end up going in a different direction or make changes to the finish schedule. Especially helpful when grain and/or figure play an important part in the overall look. Hard lesson learned early on was when to say enough is enough.


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## wrecks (Dec 6, 2015)

I made a bed frame in cherry years ago and treated it with Watco and then went over that with a simple paste wax. I was very happy with the result. My understanding was that one of the benefits of doing this is that it is easier to make a "spot repair" of the finish than it would be if you had a clear coat on the project. I'm not sure how true this is, finishing seems to be a side of woodworking that is made up of voodoo, black magic, and alchemy all rolled into one.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

wrecks said:


> I made a bed frame in cherry years ago and treated it with Watco and then went over that with a simple paste wax. I was very happy with the result. My understanding was that one of the benefits of doing this is that it is easier to make a "spot repair" of the finish than it would be if you had a clear coat on the project. I'm not sure how true this is, finishing seems to be a side of woodworking that is made up of voodoo, black magic, and alchemy all rolled into one.



I'm not sure how true this is, finishing seems to be a side of woodworking that is made up of voodoo, black magic, and alchemy all rolled into one.

Boy you said a mouth full there. I totally agree. :frown:


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## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

I have used Watco Danish Oil for some time now. I find it depends on the wood some times I can
put 2 or 3 coats on right after another. Be sure to wipe off the excess or you will have a sticky
surface. I usually use a spray lacquer as a top coat after it has dried 24hrs. I have also used
the lacquer the same day and have seen no difference. Once again I think it has a lot to do
with what kind of wood you are using.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

wrecks said:


> I made a bed frame in cherry years ago and treated it with Watco and then went over that with a simple paste wax. I was very happy with the result. My understanding was that one of the benefits of doing this is that it is easier to make a "spot repair" of the finish than it would be if you had a clear coat on the project. I'm not sure how true this is, finishing seems to be a side of woodworking that is made up of voodoo, black magic, and alchemy all rolled into one.


Very true in some cases. I've read several articles about high end woodworkers making something exceptional and then sending it off to a professional finisher rather than take a chance of doing a mediocre job or worse themselves.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Contract Out*



Cherryville Chuck said:


> Very true in some cases. I've read several articles about high end woodworkers making something exceptional and then sending it off to a professional finisher rather than take a chance of doing a mediocre job or worse themselves.


Yes. Very popular with luthiers!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I ran across a clearance sale when a local hardware store changed brands of finishes. I picked up quart cans of Watco in all the colors for a buck a piece. Yes, I bought all of them for that price.  I took scraps of different woods and made sample blocks with the different color finishes. I labeled them on the back with an ultra fine Sharpie. I have done this with any finish I work with. I keep them in a shoe box which stores easily and the blocks are a big help when deciding on a finish.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Knot working said:


> I have used Watco Danish Oil for some time now. I find it depends on the wood some times I can
> put 2 or 3 coats on right after another. Be sure to wipe off the excess or you will have a sticky
> surface. I usually use a spray lacquer as a top coat after it has dried 24hrs. I have also used
> the lacquer the same day and have seen no difference. Once again I think it has a lot to do
> with what kind of wood you are using.


Also the issue of temperature and humidity need to be considered, or so is my experience.


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## old coasty (Aug 15, 2014)

wrecks said:


> My understanding was that one of the benefits of doing this is that it is easier to make a "spot repair" of the finish than it would be if you had a clear coat on the project. I'm not sure how true this is,.


We had an unfinished Oak strip Kitchen table that we got in 1961. Used Watco on it and found we could repair it without problems in small areas. Cleaned and gave it another coat every 3-4 years. Still going strong at our Daughters house with even fewer redcoats.


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## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

Hi Don, since oak is open grain, have you thought of putting the first coat on and while still very wet rub it with 320 wet / dry sand paper? That fills the grain and makes the finish a little smoother. Malcolm / Kentucky USA


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Mike said:


> I ran across a clearance sale when a local hardware store changed brands of finishes. I picked up quart cans of Watco in all the colors for a buck a piece. Yes, I bought all of them for that price.  I took scraps of different woods and made sample blocks with the different color finishes. I labeled them on the back with an ultra fine Sharpie. I have done this with any finish I work with. I keep them in a shoe box which stores easily and the blocks are a big help when deciding on a finish.


What is the shelf life on the Watco finish? Mine set up in about 3 years, that is a lot of finish to use up.

Herb


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I'm not sure Herb. Local forum members here in the D share good deals with each other. I have 6 cans left so even if it goes bad I am way ahead of the game. I have used the Watco to finish cribbage boards and other small projects.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Herb Stoops said:


> What is the shelf life on the Watco finish? Mine set up in about 3 years, that is a lot of finish to use up.
> 
> Herb


watco calls it at about 3 years once opened.....others claim seriously longer shelf life..


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

kywoodchopper said:


> Hi Don, since oak is open grain, have you thought of putting the first coat on and while still very wet rub it with 320 wet / dry sand paper? That fills the grain and makes the finish a little smoother. Malcolm / Kentucky USA


Thanks Malcolm that is a very good advice.


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## john60 (Aug 30, 2014)

I used some yesterday that I have had for eight years. Seemed to be fine


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

hi, guys.
I´ve seen a lot of cutting boards in the forum, now I am tempted to make some of them but I am considering the finishing for this kind of project. Is this product apt to be used on the cutting boards that will handle some foods?

I would like to know in advance before to order from any USA supplier. I have not seen it here in my country.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

papasombre said:


> hi, guys.
> I´ve seen a lot of cutting boards in the forum, now I am tempted to make some of them but I am considering the finishing for this kind of project. Is this product apt to be used on the cutting boards that will handle some foods?
> 
> I would like to know in advance before to order from any USA supplier. I have not seen it here in my country.


From what I read on this forum most people use mineral oil. You can buy that local.


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