# Folding Sawhorses



## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

In the May issue of Wood magazine, they showed a pair of folding sawhorses. I thought they were a pretty slick item, so decided to make a pair. If you have ever broken down sheet goods on a standard pair of sawhorses, you know what how difficult it is trying to support the saw and 2 pieces of wood after you've completed the cut. These ones provide 2 points of contact on each sawhorse, thereby making it a lot easier to control the sheet goods. They work very well. They only chnage I would have made would be to use different wood. Some of the pine split when I put the screws in, even with pre-drilling.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Great idea , thanks for posting Brian . I need saw horses in the future and I think I'm going this route


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Brian...nice job...much better than single edge horses...and the three-point base will always keep it level...nice...and they'll store away better...WOW...they get better every time I look at 'em...

As for the screws splitting the wood, it's most likely cause by the screw's taper when you bottom it out (assume you used a countersink?).

You could try a flat wood drill bit to match the screw head, then right size hole through the center and use flat screws instead...works for me...takes a little longer, saves the wood...


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## 163481 (Jul 8, 2015)

Interesting concept. Looks like they store in less space, too.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

sfchuck said:


> Interesting concept. Looks like they store in less space, too.


That's the part I'm liking


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

That's a much better idea than the folding plastic ones. My regular ones have to stay outside. They take up too much floor space.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Nickp said:


> Brian...nice job...much better than single edge horses...and the three-point base will always keep it level...nice...and they'll store away better...WOW...they get better every time I look at 'em...
> 
> As for the screws splitting the wood, it's most likely cause by the screw's taper when you bottom it out (assume you used a countersink?).
> 
> You could try a flat wood drill bit to match the screw head, then right size hole through the center and use flat screws instead...works for me...takes a little longer, saves the wood...


Thanks. Yes, that was suggested to me about the screws as well. I used deck screws, and with the tapered head I am sure that it split when the screw pulled in tight. It's glued as well so I'm sure it's not going anywhere.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> That's a much better idea than the folding plastic ones. My regular ones have to stay outside. They take up too much floor space.


I had a set of the plastic ones given to me once. One was already broken so I had to improvise to prevent the legs from going out from under. They were ok, but pretty flimsy.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Nickp said:


> Brian...nice job...much better than single edge horses...and the three-point base will always keep it level...nice...and they'll store away better...WOW...they get better every time I look at 'em...
> 
> As for the screws splitting the wood, it's most likely cause by the screw's taper when you bottom it out (assume you used a countersink?).
> 
> You could try a flat wood drill bit to match the screw head, then right size hole through the center and use flat screws instead...works for me...takes a little longer, saves the wood...


I never thought of flat screws . It's not a cosmetic issue anyways so that's a great idea IMO

Instead of putting the screw threw the 1/4 , how about screwing threw the 2/4 and going into the 1/4 . This way the 1/4 shouldn't split as easily because the head of the screw is going into the thicker 2/4 ? 
Of course you'd need to clamp them to start with


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

BrianS said:


> In the May issue of Wood magazine, they showed a pair of folding sawhorses. I thought they were a pretty slick item, so decided to make a pair. If you have ever broken down sheet goods on a standard pair of sawhorses, you know what how difficult it is trying to support the saw and 2 pieces of wood after you've completed the cut. These ones provide 2 points of contact on each sawhorse, thereby making it a lot easier to control the sheet goods. They work very well. They only chnage I would have made would be to use different wood. Some of the pine split when I put the screws in, even with pre-drilling.


Brian, would pocket screws work? Just the screws. They have tremendous holding power. In this case (pine), the course threaded ones would be the ticket. 

Looks like the only place that might create a bind is where they fold together. If so, you could predrill a 3/8 th's inch hole just deep enough for the screw head to sit flush after you drive it in.

I use those screws as fasteners for a lot of stuff.

Like the sawhorse concept. Thanks for sharing.
Mike


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

So does this set-up, all it takes is 2 nesting horses, 2/10' and 1/8' 2X4. It allows me to cut or rip pretty much anything with the TS, fenced or free hand. If I have lumber 12' or longer I have roller stands fore and aft for the TS or MB. It's a great work station that you can erect or tear down in a few minutes.

On private property I set a tarp under the rig and have a trash barrel near for waste.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Ghidrah said:


> So does this set-up, all it takes is 2 nesting horses, 2/10' and 1/8' 2X4. It allows me to cut or rip pretty much anything with the TS, fenced or free hand. If I have lumber 12' or longer I have roller stands fore and aft for the TS or MB. It's a great work station that you can erect or tear down in a few minutes.
> 
> On private property I set a tarp under the rig and have a trash barrel near for waste.


That is nice. I only wish I had the room to store the 2x10 and 2x4 when not needed.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

MT Stringer said:


> Brian, would pocket screws work? Just the screws. They have tremendous holding power. In this case (pine), the course threaded ones would be the ticket.
> 
> Looks like the only place that might create a bind is where they fold together. If so, you could predrill a 3/8 th's inch hole just deep enough for the screw head to sit flush after you drive it in.
> 
> ...


Hmmm... Funny you should mention pocket screws... I just broke out my Kreg jig, bought it about 5 years ago and never used it. Pocket screws might have just been the ticket. The flat washer head would have prevented the split I think. And I don't think they would interfere too much when folded.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Brian,

You'd be surprised how compact the system is when ready for transport. Nest the horses, they go against the compressor the 2X4s slide under the horses the ply leans up against the horses. You would not believe all the stuff in my 7X12' trailer. I have everything I could possible need to frame a house 4 days after the forms are pulled.

Just in case it didn't occur to you, you could also use all 8' 2X4s just slide the horses and ply up a smidge, and run a couple screws through the ply and into the 2Xs to prevent any possible tipping.

Also the horses long cross brace doubles as a ledge for planks the horses height are set so that I can use them to sidewall the eave sides of most houses from found to frieze.

P.S. The horses in the pic are PT about 15yrs old and still solid as a rock.


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

Thanks for this, Brian. Are those just regular strap hinges hold them together?


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## astatue (Jul 1, 2015)

Brian great idea! Pythagoras is our friend.

Scott


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

chessnut2 said:


> Thanks for this, Brian. Are those just regular strap hinges hold them together?


Yes, strap hinges, gate hinges, or the like. These particular ones are referred to as "T hinges"


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## MT Born (Oct 29, 2014)

I think I'll build those. Pretty slick idea.
Thanks for sharing that Brian!


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