# Router Table Question...



## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

Hi folks. While I've been a long time lurker of these forums I'm really only just getting to grips with a router (Finally :grin and I'm looking for some advice regarding router tables.

Now, I have been searching through the forums so I know that the first and most common bit of advice will be to make one and at some point, I will no doubt go down that route. Right now however, I have a couple of problems. One is that having never used a router table, I don't really know what I want and what I don't want. To begin with I'll be finishing the wooden parts of some wind chimes I've started making as well as some backing pieces for some ceramic frames my other half is making, but, like I say, I don't really know what I need.

My second problem is that, right now at least, I'm much more comfortable working with metal (Although my current home setup doesn't allow me to build a metal router table unfortunately) and I'm not entirely convinced my current skill levels with wood are going to let me build a table with reasonable accuracy yet so I'm looking at a couple of shop bought tables to get me going.

Now, I've only got around £60 to £70 to spend so the first is the generic cast aluminium table with pressed steel legs and side extensions. Having done some research I gather that the legs and extensions can be a bit flimsy so if I got one of these I would screw the legs down to a base which would help stiffen them and I can also brace the extensions to help stiffen them a bit. The other table I've come across is the Charnwood W012 which looks a bit different with the MDF top and so on. One of my thoughts with this one is that when I do get round to building a table, I would have the option of scavenging parts such as the fence, mitre jig, track and so on to go on to whatever I build.

So, I guess my question is, is the Charnwood worth looking at? I know from research that there are issues with it like there are with the generic metal version but I guess that with the money I have to spend, anything is going to have issues. I don't mind doing a little fettling here and there to fix minor issues but could do without buying a complete lemon in the first place!!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I had a look at the Charnwood and it doesn't seem too bad, just quite small. One option you would have later is to just drop that table top into a larger top. You'd just need to extend the slots for the track maybe but I don't bother with the tracks. Some members don't care for them and some love them. It's a personal preference thing and that is true about router table features as a whole. I'm on my 6th one I think. I've tried a number of things to see what I like and don't like getting to that point. Some features I'm not fussy about, like the tracks, some can't live without. I've tried t-slots to clamp the fence down and just clamps to hold it in place and I don't have a preference either way for those. I do like my router plate offset towards the back of the table like the Charnwood has, but I also like to be able to work from either side of my table. Some members have the plate offset both front to rear and side to side. Those are things you find out by trying them. Some of my tables only cost me $10 -20 to make. This last one is the most expensive of the lot but it very likely is the final version too.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hi, Jon; welcome! Not sure why the wood DIY version is off the table, so to speak(?).
A basic starter table is a piece of plywood or MDF with an opening for a router plate and router to drop into. Some legs and and a nice straight 1x4 or 2x4 with a couple of clamps. That's pretty much it.
Mind you, I still haven't built mine...I'm quite happy doing my routing handheld.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> Hi, Jon; welcome! Not sure why the wood DIY version is off the table, so to speak(?).
> A basic starter table is a piece of plywood or MDF with an opening for a router plate and router to drop into. Some legs and and a nice straight 1x4 or 2x4 with a couple of clamps. That's pretty much it.
> Mind you, I still haven't built mine...I'm quite happy doing my routing handheld.


I wish I wasn’t so intimidated by making one at the beginning, as I wouldn’t even consider buying one now . I’d buy a lift and build a router table and have multiple fences . Kinda late ,as I have all the parts now .


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> Hi, Jon; welcome! Not sure why the wood DIY version is off the table, so to speak(?).
> A basic starter table is a piece of plywood or MDF with an opening for a router plate and router to drop into. Some legs and and a nice straight 1x4 or 2x4 with a couple of clamps. That's pretty much it.
> Mind you, I still haven't built mine...I'm quite happy doing my routing handheld.


Yeah. I'm like Chuck, start simple, build more, build cheap. I think I'm on my 5th one now, and likely less than $5 in it, because I keep reusing the bolts, which are the only things I buy. Look at my latest, and it looks simple, mainly because it is. Top is 1/2" plywood, supported by a spider web of 2X4 chunks, router plate is 1/2" plywood. This last one is somewhere around 15 years old I think. So, make one, if it doesn't do what you want, make another, don't need a lot of money dumped on it. No lift, because I don't want a lift. Does exactly what I want and need.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I like the key shaped plate, Theo. K.I.S.S. in pictures!


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## tulowd (Jan 24, 2019)

1" or 3/4" MDF plate cut to size at the wood store for you is the way to go. Nothing is flatter or more precisely squared up for the money. It also cuts and edges very nicely and has a reasonably tough surface that will remain true. Don't let it get wet or damp tho, that may be less than ideal. You could also make the fence from MDF in order to ensure concentricity and flatness.
Phenolic is better and 10x the money, so that's out of the question.

If you go on Woodpecker, Kreg or some of the other nicer brands websites, they have online assembly instructions for their tables, so that will be more than helpful in designing and sizing it. Incra, Jessem, etc. Go on Rockler and Woodcraft websites for the brands and pics etc.

I ended up buying a Woodpecker drill press table, and copying it in half scale in MDF to fit on my 8" table drill press. Easy peasy and lots of fun to build once you get rolling.

I'm not a woodworking guy either (car and car stereo guy) so i suffer from stage fright on here as well.


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

Thanks for the replies folks. I guess I am now leaning towards making a basic table :surprise: 

I'm a bit wary of using MDF for anything that needs to be stable dimensionally as my work space is in a garage that often gets a bit of a damp floor by the door when it rains (We're in the Peak District in the UK and it rains. A lot ) so the possibility of the top shifting is definitely there. I know MDF usually absorbs moisture through the edges so would sealing the edges with paint or varnish be worth doing? Or indeed even varnishing/painting the whole thing?

Also I've been looking at table inserts which I like the idea of. The router I'm getting (This is all part of my 50th birthday) is the Bosch POF 1200 AE so, while looking on Amazon, would the Milue Aluminum Router Table Insert Plate (Sorry, can't post links yet but if you search for that one with those words it will come up) be the sort of thing I'm looking for? Having looked at a few the quality of the machining on the back (At least as far as you can tell from a pic on Amazon) would appear to be reasonably clean and the best I've seen.

Also, if I was to sketch up some plans, would it be okay to post them here and see if I've missed anything blindingly obvious :grin:


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Stage fright kind of sums things up for me. I have a Rockler (USA brant) table that has a composiiton top. I had more money than time back then. Today, I'd have made one. My first table was a small one, and it wasn't really workable for things like doors and larger, longer stuff.

It is possible also to repurpose an old table or even chest of drawers and use the top on it. If you want to get fancy, glue a layer of Medium Density Fiberboard (18mm MDF) to the underside of the table top, but cut a hole large enough in the MDF to mount the router in. The hole for the bit should probably be about 2 inches (50mm) at most.

For the fence, you just need a nice straight board that you can clamp down to the table top. You could use MDF or really good ply, but even flat kiln dried pine will work. I also have found the stair steps you can buy anywhere in Oak will do a good job. 

You've gotten several people here urging you to make your own table, and of course it is completely your choice what you do. With your metal working experience I can see thoughts about an iron top, but you are no more likely to get a flat top that way than with carefully selected plywood. I never buy the top sheets of ply, always dig down a few layers where they're less likely to be warped. 

That web of construction grade wood under the top that was mentioned above will stiffen up the table top nicely and help keep it flat over time. It's a good way to stiffen up any surface.

Give it a go, it'll take an hour or two at most, and spend what you save on some bits.


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

DesertRatTom said:


> You've gotten several people here urging you to make your own table, and of course it is completely your choice what you do. With your metal working experience I can see thoughts about an iron top, but you are no more likely to get a flat top that way than with carefully selected plywood.


You're absolutely spot on there. When I was working as a fitter it wouldn't have been an issue, I could have gotten an aluminium top or even cast iron machined to crazy stupid tolerances...sadly my home workshop isn't quite up to that :laugh2::laugh2:


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Instead of sealing the MDF, try a double layer of plywood, preferably Baltic Birch, Glue and clamp them together using cawls, flat lumber spans the plywood, clamps go on the ends to apply pressure evenly across the plywood. Cut an opening big enough for the base of the router in the second layer, or if you are going to use a metal mounting plate, cut the opening about half an inch inside the shape and size of the plate. You can then use screws through the seond layer to level the plate with the top. Cut the top opening the exact size of the plate, PLUS about the thickness of a playing card more or you'll never get the plate out. 

I have attached a couple of images of a fence made from ply that are pretty cool. The first drawing is the offset, but slightly different than the simple double layer because you would cut a rebate or rabbet edge slightly deeper than the thickness of your plate. 

The second is a Kreg leveling device you may be able to get over there. Or you can drill throught he second layer and fit a screw up through the bottom. File off the sharp end if you wish. Not expensive here, but easy to install, and you can cut the opening the full size, no lip is needed using it.

Glad you decided to jump in. The most important part of learing woodworking is to make stuff yourself. You'll learn from each project you do.

BTW, get yourself a dust mask when working with power tools. The router throws off a LOT of sawdust and it's not good for you. Take and post a picture of your table when it's done.

I have also posted a pdf of the 18 things I've learned over the past decade that accelerated my learning curve. It's about USA gear, but most of it applies to the UK, just different model numbers and brands.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> I like the key shaped plate, Theo. K.I.S.S. in pictures!


Yeah, I do too, no movement at all. And still not sure how I made it, let alone get it so precise. I think it is because I used three pieces for the top. I made a master of it, and cloned about 5 more plates, and they all fit perfectly, just drop right in.


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

DesertRatTom said:


> Glad you decided to jump in. The most important part of learing woodworking is to make stuff yourself. You'll learn from each project you do.
> 
> BTW, get yourself a dust mask when working with power tools. The router throws off a LOT of sawdust and it's not good for you. Take and post a picture of your table when it's done.
> 
> I have also posted a pdf of the 18 things I've learned over the past decade that accelerated my learning curve. It's about USA gear, but most of it applies to the UK, just different model numbers and brands.


Well, I'm still not entirely convinced that making one myself right away is such a good idea, but I guess we'll see soon :grin:

I work with a lot of horn, antler and bone as well as small pieces of exotic woods for jewellery so the importance of good dust extraction is not lost on me. Thanks for the PDF as well, some useful stuff there that I hadn't thought of.


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## RogerPowys (Aug 13, 2018)

*Shop built router table*

The attachment includes some appropriate pages from a Shop Notes article which you may find interesting. All 95 issues are available for free download - I tried to include a link to them but was told I had to complete 10 posts before I could post urls . . .
Hope you're inspired to build your own table!
Roger


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## RogerPowys (Aug 13, 2018)

Hmmmm - I uploaded a .pdf but it seems to have dropped off somewhere in the ether. It's those pesky foreigners again!


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> I wish I wasn’t so intimidated by making one at the beginning, as I wouldn’t even consider buying one now . I’d buy a lift and build a router table and have multiple fences . Kinda late ,as I have all the parts now .


There is nothing to be intimidated about. It's just a board with a hole in it. You don't need a fence or a plate just a hole and a something flat to push your wood against. Find a place that makes laminated countertops and they will probably give you a sink cut out for free. Once you get the hang of using a table you'll most likely seldom if ever take your router off the table. You don't need a fancy fence because 99.9 percent of the time you will never need a micro adjuster you'll push the fence up to the bearing and leave it there. As far as the fence just cut a hole in it big enough for the bit to fit through. Then add a second split fence so that you can slide both sides wider or narrower depending on the bit size.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Jon it sounds like you'll be doing mostly small projects so Art's suggestion is a good one. A sink cut out would make an ideal small table. The high pressure laminate cover is perfect for a table because it's durable and very smooth. Most of us add HPL to our larger tables for that reason. In fact, I use a sink cut out on the bed of my planer (thicknesser to you) because wood slides on it better than it does on the steel bed. You just need to cut a hole out for the router and add a set of legs under it.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

...put legs under it...

Nice to leave your table set up, which is why I suggest browsing thrift shops for a piece of furniture or table you can use to hold the router up. Cheap and easy solution. Use the existing top as the second layer to create the plate shelf, then the laminate on top of that, cut to the size of the plate. Voila, pretty much done. Probably last, oh, a lifetime, particularly if you use a plate. You'll need a jig saw and a drill, which cost is offset by your savings over an "official" router table and stand. You'll gain some confidence too.


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Jon it sounds like you'll be doing mostly small projects so Art's suggestion is a good one. A sink cut out would make an ideal small table. The high pressure laminate cover is perfect for a table because it's durable and very smooth. Most of us add HPL to our larger tables for that reason. In fact, I use a sink cut out on the bed of my planer (thicknesser to you) because wood slides on it better than it does on the steel bed. You just need to cut a hole out for the router and add a set of legs under it.


I'm going to ask around locally to see if I can scrounge a bit of work surface from somewhere.



DesertRatTom said:


> ...put legs under it...
> 
> Nice to leave your table set up, which is why I suggest browsing thrift shops for a piece of furniture or table you can use to hold the router up. Cheap and easy solution. Use the existing top as the second layer to create the plate shelf, then the laminate on top of that, cut to the size of the plate. Voila, pretty much done. Probably last, oh, a lifetime, particularly if you use a plate. You'll need a jig saw and a drill, which cost is offset by your savings over an "official" router table and stand. You'll gain some confidence too.


It's going to have to have legs unfortunately. I simply don't have the room to leave it set up permanently otherwise an old chest of drawers or something similar would be a stonking idea. Sadly however it's going to have to share the workmate with my band saw. It means I'll have to plan my work carefully as I really don't enjoy shifting the band saw around too often, but then, in my case at least, being forced to do a bit of planning is probably no bad thing :grin: I've already got jigsaws and drills, so no issues there and I will definitely be bearing the furniture idea in mind for future expansion.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

might be some ideas here...

.


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

After looking at what you've all said here and having a look round the net, this is what I think I'm planning. I did think about just sitting the table straight onto my workmate, but as I'm 6'2" I can feel my back cramping up just thinking about that and I already have the 45 x 70 timber from another project that got changed part way through so I might as well use it. The insert plate is another I found on Amazon. It appears to be made from solid sheet aluminium rather than cast so I'm hoping for less chance of it not being flat. It only comes with a couple of insert plates, but I figure if I need more I can make them from acrylic, mdf or something similar? 

I've added a shelf partly to brace the frame but also so I can add some kind of lift at a later date and I'm not really sure of the final dimensions for it all yet until I know what I'm making the top from. My other half did point put that we spend probably way too much time in a garden centre coffee shop that also has a kitchen fitting business attached to it so I'm relatively hopeful of scoring an off-cut of work top either from there or from one of the local Facebook groups.

I've left an overhang to allow me to clamp a fence or other guides in place as well as some sort of dust extraction. For the fence I'll probably go and raid the scraps bin at my local B&Q store for some plywood and make up a braced L shape sort of thing with a cutout for the bit and something to clamp a vac tube to.

Later on if I feel I need it I can always fit some track as well maybe for the fence or other guides, feather boards etc.

If anyone spots anything I've missed out, please do jump in and let me know


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

mr happymoose said:


> I did think about just sitting the table straight onto my workmate, but as I'm 6'2" I can feel my back cramping up just thinking about that


My back now allows me just seconds to stand up and work, before it really starts to hurt, and I have to sit for relief. My table is at the right height to sit and use it, rather than stand. My back loves that.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Hey Jon

I've been where you are, at least, with wanting to have a table. I made mine with help from the fine folks here. It's pretty basic, but will do the job.
I figured I'd give you the link to the thread, as there was a lot of helpful advice that isn't already on your thread. Hopefully it helps.

https://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/137281-ok-building-table-but.html


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

JOAT said:


> My back now allows me just seconds to stand up and work, before it really starts to hurt, and I have to sit for relief. My table is at the right height to sit and use it, rather than stand. My back loves that.


I'm okay so long as I'm either stood upright or sat down, it's being constantly bent over that kills me. I prefer to be stood up just in case I ever need to get out of the way of anything that's moving rapidly in directions I wasn't expecting so most of the tools in my 'shop are higher than average. My other half wants to have a go at making a box when I have the router sorted, as she's only 5'1" it could be interesting :laugh2::laugh2:


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

I bought an aluminium plate which fitted my router just fine, and mounted that into my table top, built on a basic stand.
It's about 800mm long, and sits at a good height (higher than a workmate), which is fine for my 5'11"

It really was easy once I got going, and that was with very little confidence in my abilities. Since you've got a bit of experience under your belt, I think you'll find it easier than you think it will be.


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

1fizgig said:


> I bought an aluminium plate which fitted my router just fine, and mounted that into my table top, built on a basic stand.
> It's about 800mm long, and sits at a good height (higher than a workmate), which is fine for my 5'11"
> 
> It really was easy once I got going, and that was with very little confidence in my abilities. Since you've got a bit of experience under your belt, I think you'll find it easier than you think it will be.


I was a bit wary of the insert plates I found previously as the ones for a full sized router plate were all cast and there were a few comments about them not being flat. Eventually though I found one that, at least looking at the pics, appears to be made from sheet rather than cast so fingers crossed it should at least be flat.

I've also just been given a 36" x 28" off-cut of kitchen worktop so I'll trim that down to size and that should be ideal for the top. I also have some MDF off-cuts which I can use for the shelf so the insert plate will be the only thing I need to buy for the table :dance3::dance3:


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Jon I have 2 tables, one that is free standing at around 3 feet to a metre high and a bench top one. I use the free standing one for most larger projects and one off small projects. For larger run small projects I prefer to use my bench top table. It's about 16"/ 40 cm high and when sitting on one of my work surfaces raises the top to around 4.3'/ 130 cm. I'm also 6' 2" and this height is very easy on my back. If you'll be doing a lot of small parts then I either recommend that setup or one where you can sit at the table like Theo does.


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Jon I have 2 tables, one that is free standing at around 3 feet to a metre high and a bench top one. I use the free standing one for most larger projects and one off small projects. For larger run small projects I prefer to use my bench top table. It's about 16"/ 40 cm high and when sitting on one of my work surfaces raises the top to around 4.3'/ 130 cm. I'm also 6' 2" and this height is very easy on my back. If you'll be doing a lot of small parts then I either recommend that setup or one where you can sit at the table like Theo does.


I'm definitely more used to working on higher work surfaces and I'm somewhat constrained on the final height by the height of the router and wanting to leave space under it for a lift in the future. Having said that, my workmate does have folding leg extensions which do give me the option of lowering it by almost a foot if I need to. Also at some point, we're either going to move to a new house where I'll have a bigger work space or I'll be rearranging what I have now (Probably a bigger job than actually just moving :surprise and I can build a proper base for it to give it a good height.

On the subject of lifts, I know that these are marketed as router lifts, but has anyone ever actually used one successfully??

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stainless-...ords=router+lift&qid=1564555372&s=diy&sr=1-20

I'm thinking it's probably got a lower profile than a scissor jack.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Oooh, I looked at those, but I wasn't sure how my router would sit on that, so I steered away from it.
The idea appealed, but.......no.

The plate I bought came with a basic lift assembly but as my router is still under warranty and has pretty good adjustments (it's a plunge router) I haven't fitted it yet. The provided assembly bolts on, and the idea is you wind it up/down through the table top.


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

1fizgig said:


> Oooh, I looked at those, but I wasn't sure how my router would sit on that, so I steered away from it.
> The idea appealed, but.......no.
> 
> The plate I bought came with a basic lift assembly but as my router is still under warranty and has pretty good adjustments (it's a plunge router) I haven't fitted it yet. The provided assembly bolts on, and the idea is you wind it up/down through the table top.


I've seen those. Is that one of the cast plates? If so, how flat was the machining front and back? I've been a bit wary of those as I'd seen a lot of comments on Amazon about them not being flat, particularly on the back where you mount the router. The one I'd decided to go for is this one;

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TOOGOO-Alu...er+Table+Insert&qid=1564515152&s=diy&sr=1-164

Which would appear to be made from sheet aluminium so, theoretically at least, should have a better chance of being flat


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You'd take the springs out of the plunge tubes if it is a plunge router and just use the jack to raise and lower the router. I've seen one or two examples of that on this forum. You'd have to be careful you aren't interfering with the router's cooling air flow with that. 

Many new routers come with above the table adjustment capability. The Triton routers score very high marks as a table router (but not as a handheld as they are top heavy) and they have above table capability. The Bosch 1617, Milwaukee 5625, my Hitachi M12V2, and some of the DeWalts I think have above table adjustment. That negates the need to purchase a lift and using one of those setups you can remove the router with plate attached and use it as such, something you couldn't do with a lift.

For all the older plunges without above table capability there is the Router Raizer: Router Raizer


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

mr happymoose said:


> On the subject of lifts, I know that these are marketed as router lifts, but has anyone ever actually used one successfully??


I've seen car scissor jacks used, this one doesn't look any better to me. I do not have a router lift, and don't intend to get one. I much prefer just popping off the router plate, router and all, do whatever, or change routers and plates, and just drop them back into the table. I'm very satisfied with that.


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## johnjory (Sep 19, 2013)

I suggest you buy a used one. Check on eBay. When buying used the price is mostly half or less what a new one cost in addition you will learn inexpensively what features you really want. Then if your first buy is not satisfactory you can sell it and get what you really want.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Well*



mr happymoose said:


> I've seen those. Is that one of the cast plates? If so, how flat was the machining front and back? I've been a bit wary of those as I'd seen a lot of comments on Amazon about them not being flat, particularly on the back where you mount the router. The one I'd decided to go for is this one;
> 
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/TOOGOO-Alu...er+Table+Insert&qid=1564515152&s=diy&sr=1-164
> 
> Which would appear to be made from sheet aluminium so, theoretically at least, should have a better chance of being flat



Yes, mine is cast. I had a good one that seems to actually be very flat. Your mileage may vary 

I was pleased with the one I got, but I agree, the one you link to does look good.


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

Oh bugger it  Looks like there might be a bit of a delay on this. Took the car in for it's MOT yesterday (If anyone over the water doesn't know, it's a statutory yearly vehicle safety check for vehicles over 3 years old) and it failed so we now need to get £200 ish work done on it. So this will still happen, just might not be as soon as I'd hoped.


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## Old_Tom (Jun 28, 2019)

mr happymoose said:


> I'm definitely more used to working on higher work surfaces and I'm somewhat constrained on the final height by the height of the router and wanting to leave space under it for a lift in the future. Having said that, my workmate does have folding leg extensions which do give me the option of lowering it by almost a foot if I need to. Also at some point, we're either going to move to a new house where I'll have a bigger work space or I'll be rearranging what I have now (Probably a bigger job than actually just moving :surprise and I can build a proper base for it to give it a good height.
> 
> On the subject of lifts, I know that these are marketed as router lifts, but has anyone ever actually used one successfully??
> 
> ...


Hi. I was using one of these on my Ken router (red one)before I got the Triton TRA001. Worked fine and could easily lift the router (springs removed) also allowed pretty fine adjustment. Once router height is set, as with other methods, need to engage the router height lock.

Another lift method I was using with the Ryobi router (green one) was this simple continuous thread idea.
Cheers.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

That really isn't anything but a scissor jack with a plate on it and it wouldn't work very well. The problem is that the purpose of a lift is to be able to make micro-adjustments to the bit height. With this contraption the screw part has too coarse of a thread. The slightest turn of the crank will raise the bit higher than as 1/32 of an inch.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

mgmine said:


> That really isn't anything but a scissor jack with a plate on it and it wouldn't work very well. The problem is that the purpose of a lift is to be able to make micro-adjustments to the bit height. With this contraption the screw part has too coarse of a thread. The slightest turn of the crank will raise the bit higher than as 1/32 of an inch.


interferes w/ the motor's cooling air too...
and acme threads are quite sloppy....
and I doubt the plastic housing on the motor is built to take all that compression and resonation...


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

mgmine said:


> With this contraption the screw part has too coarse of a thread. The slightest turn of the crank will raise the bit higher than as 1/32 of an inch.





Stick486 said:


> ...and I doubt the plastic housing on the motor is built to take all that compression and resonation...


Those were the exact two things I was concerned about. Having looked a little closer at the router I'll be getting (£200 worth of work on the car turned into £300 so going to be delayed a bit) one of these lifts would definitely block the cooling vents in the router so I think that this table at least will be without a bottom mounted lift which actually gives me a bit more leeway on the height of the whole thing.

I'm still going to build the table as soon as we order the insert plate, but for now I'll use it with the smaller router I already have and just take it a bit easier until I get a bigger one.


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

Well, got some extra cash coming for my Birthday so after having to fork out to get the car fixed, fingers crossed I'm back on track. I've also been given a bit of kitchen worktop so I'm using that for the top. It's not as long as I would have liked but having looked at what I'll actually be doing on the router I think it will be fine and I can always add extensions at a later date if need be. Also I'm not going to bother with a lift for now, again I figure I can always add one later if I feel the need and can work out a way to fit one without blocking ventilation holes on the router.

So, I _think_ this is probably the final plan.

Maybe.

:grin:

It's sized to fit the worktop I have, the insert plate I'm getting and the spacing on my workmate to make sure it will clamp securely on and not go anywhere. If anyone can see any glaring issues I'd appreciate having them pointed out


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

One of the advantages of a benchtop router table when you are using a plunge type router with no above table adjustment capability is that if you leave the framework open as possible then it isn't hard at all to reach under and turn the height adjustment and lock and open the column lock lever. In a free standing table it's a bit more of an issue as you have to bend over and reach under and feel around where you can't see (unless you get on a knee which I don't do easily now).


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Has anyone ever asked the question"Why raise and lower the router when the router can be fixed and the table raised and lowered?" The table height would only have to move less than 1" in height.

Just a thought.
Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

think that one out Herb...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

They do it on a lot of metal working machines.
Herb


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

I think it's a possible option, but adjustable tables with decent lifting mechanisms are relatively expensive compare to utilising router functionality that's included I would think.
Plus wouldn't it be easier to adjust your router's alignment if it was off than try and fix the whole table?

Just thinking that one through out loud


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> They do it on a lot of metal working machines.
> Herb


It's not the router that moves up and down, it's the bit relative to the base plate. Leaving the router static and moving the table would mean that the baseplate couldn't be attached to the router. Or am I misinterpreting the question?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I agree with Steve in that it would have to be on a high end piece of equipment, think of a wood working milling machine.

Herb


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The only mechanism I can think of that would reliably lift the table evenly would be 4 screw columns with sprockets and a chain connecting them all. Like in a planer.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> The only mechanism I can think of that would reliably lift the table evenly would be 4 screw columns with sprockets and a chain connecting them all. Like in a planer.


Sort of like the planer bed,was my thought.
Herb


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## RogerPowys (Aug 13, 2018)

Chuck commented: "if you leave the framework open as possible then it isn't hard at all to reach under and turn the height adjustment and lock and open the column lock lever." Good point, but . . .

The trouble with open-frame designs is it's impossible to catch all the dust that is generated. The more I read about the serious dangers of dust inhalation, the more I am persuaded that totally enclosed tables are the way to go - which brings us back to the question of accessing the router for height adjustments and bit changes. 

My table currently has a crank underneath [Ryobi plunge router with springs removed] to raise/lower the bit height, but I am planning to change to a top-access adjuster via the router plate and a hinged table-top to access the collet for driver changes, with dust extraction above [via the fence] and below [out of a sealed box under the router]. I am yet to find out whether the router will need some kind of forced air cooling when it is operating in a sealed box. If anyone has experience of this, I'd be interested to hear your comments.
Roger


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Roger I have to disagree with what you said about needing the box around the router. Although I know of no experiments to back up what I am about to say I do know that the physics of it is sound. The ability of a router to throw material is proportional to the mass of the particle being thrown. It's similar to you trying to throw a baseball compared to a ping pong ball. The ping pong ball has low mass and is heavily affected by the friction it encounters while going through the air. So too should the particles being thrown by the router. The heavier particles are more likely to escape the draw of a dust collector. The lightest particles should slow down the quickest making them more susceptible to being drawn into a DC outlet. My own personal system is fence mounted and it collects 90-95% of all the particles and I don't notice any haze in the vicinity of the bit. Boxes around routers are a very risky business. While a number of members have stated that they have done it without having the router heat up. I used one at a place I worked years ago that was in a very large box, basically a free standing table-cabinet and after a half hour I could feel the heat coming through the plywood. That's what turned me off the idea. It also makes the router inaccesible for adjustments and bit changes.

So far we had only been talking about getting a basic table together to get started with with possibly only a straight edge for a fence so getting into the DC aspects of using one may be a bit premature right now but even just fixing the end of a shop vac hose close to the bit will make a difference and won't be too hard to just get going with.


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> So far we had only been talking about getting a basic table together to get started with with possibly only a straight edge for a fence so getting into the DC aspects of using one may be a bit premature right now but even just fixing the end of a shop vac hose close to the bit will make a difference and won't be too hard to just get going with.


Just to reassure folks, I'm used to working with smaller pieces of exotic woods as well as bone, antler and horn amongst other things in a lot of the work I do so I'm well aware of the issues regarding dust extraction. I'm planning to build a fence along the lines of the one pictured (Apologies for the dodgy pics, they're screen grabs of a youtube video) which will include some way to attach a hose to a shop vac.

It's the router that's new to me, not working with my hands :grin:


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

My fence is a slightly more complex version of that. I added sliding faces on mine so I could keep the opening around the bit tight to the radius of the bit. Post #3 in this thread: https://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/87746-router-table-fence.html
It works very well at collecting the vast majority of chips.


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Very interesting PDF, Tom.
I´ll keep it on my PC.
"..., but I think the information is helpful for someone new to the hobby..." and others, like me


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