# A jewellery box for beginners



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

A jewellery box like this should be well within the capabilities of all but the newest member without any woodworking experience, it uses plain mitred joints made in a way that requires very little skill. The finish was six coats of Shellac, chosen because of it's very fast drying, and was completed by rubbing down with fine wire wool lubricated with mineral oil which left a nice smooth, almost antique finish. The size of the box, which was dictated by the size of the wood blocks that I had is 9" x 6" x 2.25" high. I think that the large number of photographs should make construction self explanatory.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

We now continue with the assembly of the box and end with two shots of the wood that I was given some time ago, allegedly Sheoak but it turned out to be Banksia.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

and so to the final shots followed by a zip file.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Great write up, as always, I might be able to follow this. I need it simple and your write makes it simple thanks.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice job Harry



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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Bob,
Not answering for Harry, but your observation that "it's fun..." is reason enough for me.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Gene

hahahahahahaha LOL


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Gene Howe said:


> Bob,
> Not answering for Harry, but your observation that "it's fun..." is reason enough for me.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I imagine anyone could make a box from MDF and pre-made moldings. They would be a box maker. A woodworker would craft a box from solid wood like Harry has done. That would make him a craftsman would it not? Box maker and craftsman are not the same in my books.


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

CanuckGal said:


> I imagine anyone could make a box from MDF and pre-made moldings. They would be a box maker. A woodworker would craft a box from solid wood like Harry has done. That would make him a craftsman would it not? Box maker and craftsman are not the same in my books.


 Oh I thought you got the name craftsman from your wife signing you up for email. lol


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

Harry that is a nice write up. I love the way you did the ring holders. I have had problems with that part in the past.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Well done Harry......said to the wife that you must be doing an instructional piece...it was all too quiet in Rockingham......once again, thanks.............AL


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

Harry another excellent thread, really like how you always show how the procedure was done, a lot of great information here!



bobj3 said:


> Hi Gene
> 
> hahahahahahaha LOL
> But it's just a wooden box that will sit on the dresser for the next 10 years or so..
> ...


I don't understand the point of this comment, either keep it friendly to the post content or don't post.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mark

Harry and I play a game called Ping/Pong , I will give him a shot and in turn he will give me a shot, but it's all in fun and Harry knows that  but if you want me to stop that I will.. 

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Mark said:


> I don't understand the point of this comment, either keep it friendly to the post content or don't post.


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Mark
> 
> Harry and I play a game called Ping/Pong , I will give him a shot and in turn he will give me a shot, but it's all in fun and Harry knows that  but if you want me to stop that I will..
> 
> ====


I understand, I just don't want other members to see it and do the same  I know you guys are old pals! I just don't want anyone to be upset if it goes too far.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mark

I understand, it's pulls other members into the thread, i.e. Gene and Deb, that's why Harry and I do it, when the forum is slow, I don't want anyone to get upset it's just a fun thing We do...but I will stop... 

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Mark said:


> I understand, I just don't want other members to see it and do the same  I know you guys are old pals! I just don't want anyone to be upset if it goes too far.


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Mark
> 
> I understand, it's pulls other members into the thread, i.e. Gene and Deb, that's why Harry and I do it, when the forum is slow, I don't want anyone to get upset it's just a fun thing we do...but I will stop...
> 
> =====


I understand Bob, thanks, I just don't want to upset anyone. Thanks 

----

Sorry Harry for invading your thread with these off-topic posts. This is another great informational thread from Harry, lets get back on discussion


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## pal (Feb 13, 2008)

Hi Harry,
Great wip and tutorial as always. If I lived closer I would drop over and liberate a few pieces of that Banksia.

Regards 
Harold


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

This should be the Kate Middleton jewlery box.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

pal said:


> Hi Harry,
> Great wip and tutorial as always. If I lived closer I would drop over and liberate a few pieces of that Banksia.
> 
> Regards
> Harold


Banksia is a new one for me.....I don't get out much.....It sure looks good in those slab photos, though. 
What sort of wood is it? What sort of tree is it? Is the wood used much down under?


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Nice tutorial harry, and I must say you must look good in that jewelry 

All everyone needs to know about Banksia.
Banksia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

As children in Australia you grow up with stories of the Banksia men trying to get you when you walk through the bush.










Bob, you can't buy off the shelf Banksia wood, and why spend money on mdf when you have free banksia ?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Nice job Harry
> 
> But I got to ask why not just buy the lumber (molding) from the lumber yard. a 5.oo dollar item most of the time or less, do you have a inlay kit for your router to put the mirror in place quick and easy way,or a pattern bit..plus if you are going to cover the parts, in the box why not use 1/4" thick MDF/plywood lumber..
> 
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Al Robins said:


> Well done Harry......said to the wife that you must be doing an instructional piece...it was all too quiet in Rockingham......once again, thanks.............AL


You are so right about quiet in Rockingham Al., I have a viral infection and have lost my voice again so it really is quiet.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mark said:


> I understand, I just don't want other members to see it and do the same  I know you guys are old pals! I just don't want anyone to be upset if it goes too far.


I really do appreciate your concern Mark, but as Bob has said, we are great mates and enjoy taking the you know what out of each other!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

gav said:


> Nice tutorial harry, and I must say you must look good in that jewelry
> 
> All everyone needs to know about Banksia.
> Banksia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
> ...


Thank you Gavin for that information, here is a shot of some Banksia nuts in my wood shed, all of the wood has been given for FREE, that I hope one day to make something out of on the lathe. The only time that I tried to turn one I wasn't suitably dressed for the huge amount of debris that completely covered me and blunted my gouge.
My thanks to you all for your welcome comments.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

gav said:


> Nice tutorial harry, and I must say you must look good in that jewelry
> 
> All everyone needs to know about Banksia.
> Banksia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
> ...



Thanks for the link, Gavin. 
Sounds like a wood that would make interesting accents. The flowers (?) are sure pretty, too.


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

Harry,
As always, and excellent write up. I think I will add this to the pdf list. One thing I am curious about. All of your pictures and write ups are always so detailed, but the other day it dawned on me, you never state what speed you are running the router out. I am a newbie at this, and I always wonder what speed the router should be run at for a given bit. I know there are charts with recommended speeds for different size bits, but since these are tutorials, I thought that would be a nice touch.

I know, I know, just something else to have to remember. 

My goal is to make items out of rough stock, mainly trees that I have cut down myself. I do not have the means to cut long tree trucks so most of the items would be small, like trivets, cutting boards and box. This is the main reason I am building skis, so I can plane down one side flat before running it through the planer and truing it up.

Keep up the great work, and I hope you get your voice back soon.


Darrin


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

darrink said:


> Harry,
> As always, and excellent write up. I think I will add this to the pdf list. One thing I am curious about. All of your pictures and write ups are always so detailed, but the other day it dawned on me, you never state what speed you are running the router out. I am a newbie at this, and I always wonder what speed the router should be run at for a given bit. I know there are charts with recommended speeds for different size bits, but since these are tutorials, I thought that would be a nice touch.
> 
> I know, I know, just something else to have to remember.
> ...


I will appreciate you performing your magic once again Darrin. As for router speed, hand held I don't use huge cutters so the speed is left full on, with the table, for all by very large cutters I again leave it at full speed but drop down to about #3 on a scale of 1 to 5. I've never been pedantic regarding router and lathe speeds but do take more care with my milling machine so as not to stress it. Perhaps this laid back attitude to speed doesn't set a good example to beginners, but I really haven't ever had cause for concern.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

pal said:


> Hi Harry,
> Great wip and tutorial as always. If I lived closer I would drop over and liberate a few pieces of that Banksia.
> 
> Regards
> Harold


Thanks for your kind comments Harold, if you popped over here I'd let you help yourself, it's the first time that I've used Banksia and it isn't the nicest of woods, I got several splinters and there were lots of internal imperfections causing a lot of waste. I much prefer the Jacaranda and think that I still have a few boards ready for milling for another project next year.


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

Harry, dose that tree you used have any historical value? We have trees here on the island that have been here since before George Washington was around. At the William Floyd estate you can still see the horse shoe prints from the British horses on the floor. The British took over William Floyd's house during the revolutionary war. William Floyd signed the declaration of independent for those who were not required to learn American history. Can you see me making a blanket chest out of those floor boards? Then being arrested by the federal,park police for destruction of a national monument.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Not so far as I know John, the tree was cut down in the grounds of where my son works and brought to me by my granddaughters husband who also works there, I assume that it was becoming dangerous. Populated Australia is too young to have much history, by that I mean European population.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Dang Harry, I can't believe you're younger than my mother and yet you have a granddaughter that has a husband !?

My mind boggles.


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## Lynn2 (Aug 28, 2009)

*Thanks*

Just wanted to say thanks for the tutorial. I especially likes showing the mistake and correction. Something missing from most.
I really like your collection of clamps.
Lynn


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## BioBill (Oct 2, 2010)

Thanks so much for all your work to create this posting. Very informative and useful. I do have a question about the bottom- isn't there a danger of the solid wood bottom breaking the box if there are swings in humidity (since it is glued in all around)?


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## stanzee (Dec 9, 2010)

Really nice work. I would never have thought of routing a large piece and then slicing into boards. The zip file at the end will make it easy to construct a slide show to use when doing it myself.
Thanks for your contribution.


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

At the risk of sounding critical, which is not my intention as this is a fine write-up containing a wealth of useful information, but I have to ask the question, is the term "beginner" in the title really appropriate given that the methodology makes use of such a lot of expensive machinery that a beginner is unlikely to own or have access to?

In particular I refer to the use of:

1) bandsaw
2) planer
3) disk sander

I would have thought you would be unlikely to find these items in a beginners workshop as they are $500+ items (possible exception being the disk sander).

Is resawing really an option for the beginner?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Beautiful Job Harry,
I've never heard of banksia so I googled it. According to the article I read it is a gnarly shrub that can occasionally grow to as much as 15m tall in certain areas of Australia. If that's true then I would imagine the piece you showed is fairly special and that it is not a commercially viable species. It is really attractive, interesting grain and beautiful color.


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## metzgeri (Feb 1, 2010)

Very nice tutorial, Harry!! Beautiful box, I'm sure you got a big smooch on the cheek and hug from some happy girl in your family!!! 

Did you do the rough sawing yourself? If so, how and did you worry about moisture content before working with it?

Just curious, because I have some walnut and cherry logs a couple friends have given to me and want to start using them. I have been reading about resawing, air drying etc.... but I'm nowhere ready to start doing it.

Regards,
Tim


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

temper said:


> At the risk of sounding critical, which is not my intention as this is a fine write-up containing a wealth of useful information, but I have to ask the question, is the term "beginner" in the title really appropriate given that the methodology makes use of such a lot of expensive machinery that a beginner is unlikely to own or have access to?
> 
> In particular I refer to the use of:
> 
> ...


Gary,
Every woodshop has to have at the very least a tablesaw. It will resaw timbers. If it is a 10", it will resaw a 6" timber. You can flatten the backside of the pieces by sanding or with a router on skis. You can cut accurate miters with a chop saw or your table saw and you don't have to worry about shatter or blowout if you use a sacrificial fence behind the piece. 
I never made a really accurate mitre until I bought a set of blade stabilizers, essentially a much larger and stiffer washer. Mine are Dimar and cost about $25. They help on a chop saw or tablesaw especially if you don't want to spend huge amounts of money on blades. You should be able to do what Harry did but with a little more effort and elbow grease.


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## crow400 (Jan 12, 2008)

Thanks Harry.
That is a great tutorial - I'll have a go.
Regards,
Bruce


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

BioBill said:


> Thanks so much for all your work to create this posting. Very informative and useful. I do have a question about the bottom- isn't there a danger of the solid wood bottom breaking the box if there are swings in humidity (since it is glued in all around)?


Whilst that is only one of several methods that I use Bill, I still have boxes made ten years ago using that method with no obvious problems. I do make the bottom a relatively loose fit allowing glue to fill gaps, then glue felt on the bottom.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

At the risk of sounding critical, which is not my intention as this is a fine write-up containing a wealth of useful information, but I have to ask the question, is the term "beginner" in the title really appropriate given that the methodology makes use of such a lot of expensive machinery that a beginner is unlikely to own or have access to?

In particular I refer to the use of:

1) bandsaw
2) planer
3) disk sander

I would have thought you would be unlikely to find these items in a beginners workshop as they are $500+ items (possible exception being the disk sander).

Is resawing really an option for the beginner?


Gary, a good question, however, my reason for producing this series is not so much to have beginners set about making these projects, rather my intention is to demonstrate different methods of achieving a particular result. In the case of this jewellery box, it's the first time that I have made moulding in this way, in the past I have used 2" x 1" across the moulding cutter.The one in this shot that I made about eight years ago, using the same cutter was made this way for my daughter-in-law. Hopefully these threads will also give newcomers a better idea of what machine tools to aim for as money becomes available.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Beautiful Job Harry,
> I've never heard of banksia so I googled it. According to the article I read it is a gnarly shrub that can occasionally grow to as much as 15m tall in certain areas of Australia. If that's true then I would imagine the piece you showed is fairly special and that it is not a commercially viable species. It is really attractive, interesting grain and beautiful color.


Charles, whilst I've been familiar with Banksia trees since buying our second house in Australia a couple of days before Christmas day in 1967 because one had been left standing in the corner of the back garden, I've never heard of it being sold commercially. I have plenty left so hope to come up with a variety of projects using it.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

metzgeri said:


> Very nice tutorial, Harry!! Beautiful box, I'm sure you got a big smooch on the cheek and hug from some happy girl in your family!!!
> 
> Did you do the rough sawing yourself? If so, how and did you worry about moisture content before working with it?
> 
> ...


It hasn't yet been decided who will get it. The log was far too heavy for me to handle but fortunately I have a good friend who lives quite close and I took it to him and was amazed at how easy he made it look rolling it off the trailer. He has a collection of chain saws and a BIG band saw so the next time I saw the "log" it was as shown in the photo at the end of the thread, not only cut up but all the ends dipped in wax. I have a woodshed where I left it for probably a year. I do have a digital moisture meter whereas purists like Bernie weigh the wood from time to time.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I thank you all for your interest and comments.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Never fear Gary, I am in the process of making a jewellery box that absolute beginners can make using only electric hand tools. I know that beginners can make it because many of the techniques I am using are a first for me and I consider myself a beginner.
You'll probably have to wait until after christmas, but when I finally put it up, you'll see me cutting the dead tree down, milling the wood in the most basic way and making a box from it.

Ok, couldn't resist a teaser but I will be starting my own thread when the job is finished.

Here's a pic of the tree ( just a stump now) I started with that was growing on the property I grew up in when my parents bought the land in Ipswich Australia, 1966. On my recent visit they asked me to chop some down. I decided to bring some of it back to Croatia with me and make something out of it.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Ok, couldn't add pic on previous post during edit so here it is.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

that's it.


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Gary,
> Every woodshop has to have at the very least a tablesaw. It will resaw timbers. If it is a 10", it will resaw a 6" timber. You can flatten the backside of the pieces by sanding or with a router on skis. You can cut accurate miters with a chop saw or your table saw and you don't have to worry about shatter or blowout if you use a sacrificial fence behind the piece.
> I never made a really accurate mitre until I bought a set of blade stabilizers, essentially a much larger and stiffer washer. Mine are Dimar and cost about $25. They help on a chop saw or tablesaw especially if you don't want to spend huge amounts of money on blades. You should be able to do what Harry did but with a little more effort and elbow grease.


Thanks for that Charles, yes I have a "cheap" table saw and after a few days worth of tuning I am able cut mitres to my satisfaction, but I have not tried resawing on it after reading that it can be extremely dangerous (kickback etc.). If it *is* a viable option I (and I am sure others) would appreciate a tutorial or an overview of how to do it safely.

I hadn't heard about the stabilisers - I will look into them.

Given that resawing is viable I suppose a disk sander to finish it off might be the best tool to acquire next?


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

gav said:


> Never fear Gary, I am in the process of making a jewellery box that absolute beginners can make using only electric hand tools. I know that beginners can make it because many of the techniques I am using are a first for me and I consider myself a beginner.
> You'll probably have to wait until after christmas, but when I finally put it up, you'll see me cutting the dead tree down, milling the wood in the most basic way and making a box from it.


Can't wait Gav, in particular I will be interested in seeing how you flatten/smooth the wood - but please don't make me get my old hand plane out...:fie:


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

temper said:


> Thanks for that Charles, yes I have a "cheap" table saw and after a few days worth of tuning I am able cut mitres to my satisfaction, but I have not tried resawing on it after reading that it can be extremely dangerous (kickback etc.). If it *is* a viable option I (and I am sure others) would appreciate a tutorial or an overview of how to do it safely.
> 
> I hadn't heard about the stabilisers - I will look into them.
> 
> Given that resawing is viable I suppose a disk sander to finish it off might be the best tool to acquire next?


HI Gary - To resaw on a table saw, I set depth of cut to just over 1/2 the width/thickness, use stacked featherboards to keep it square with the fence and use a push tool that allows me to hold the thing down so it doesn't climb the blade as it gets pushed through. Flip end for end to make the second cut. Small slab comes off away from the fence.
Belt sander works for cleanup.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Thank you Gavin for that information, here is a shot of some Banksia nuts in my wood shed, all of the wood has been given for FREE, that I hope one day to make something out of on the lathe. The only time that I tried to turn one I wasn't suitably dressed for the huge amount of debris that completely covered me and blunted my gouge.
> My thanks to you all for your welcome comments.


Harry,

I believe that when some turners work with corn cobs, pine cones and banksia nuts, they are soaked in epoxy first.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

gav said:


> Never fear Gary, I am in the process of making a jewellery box that absolute beginners can make using only electric hand tools. I know that beginners can make it because many of the techniques I am using are a first for me and I consider myself a beginner.
> You'll probably have to wait until after christmas, but when I finally put it up, you'll see me cutting the dead tree down, milling the wood in the most basic way and making a box from it.
> 
> Ok, couldn't resist a teaser but I will be starting my own thread when the job is finished.
> ...



Hi Gav,

"I decided to bring some of it back to Croatia with me and make something out of it."

How much did that cost in excess luggage????????

Harry's ski jig sent my luggage up by 3 kgs.......


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

jschaben said:


> HI Gary - To resaw on a table saw, I set depth of cut to just over 1/2 the width/thickness, use stacked featherboards to keep it square with the fence and use a push tool that allows me to hold the thing down so it doesn't climb the blade as it gets pushed through. Flip end for end to make the second cut. Small slab comes off away from the fence.
> Belt sander works for cleanup.


Thanks for that John.

Just a few questions:

so would that be similar to this method?
How to: Resaw without a bandsaw - by Zuki @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

Speaking of using a belt sander, does anyone recommend me asking for this for XMas?

100x914MM 375W RYOBI® BDS4600 Belt/Disc Sander - Bunnings Warehouse

or perhaps this?

230mm 400W RYOBI® Bandsaw - Bunnings Warehouse


Am I hijacking this thread with these dumb questions?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

temper said:


> Thanks for that John.
> 
> Just a few questions:
> 
> ...



Hi Gary,

1. I would not use the table saw with the featherboards in those positions. They will pinch the workpiece against the blade and you are likely to get kickback. I have re-sawed hardwood 4x2s on the table saw (GMC) without too much effort. 

2. The belt/disc sander is great idea. If you get 2 for Christmas, I will take one off your hands:sarcastic: :sarcastic: :sarcastic:

3. I feel the bandsaw is too small for resawing. I have a GMG 8" and upgraded to a HAFCO 12"


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Gav,
> 
> "I decided to bring some of it back to Croatia with me and make something out of it."
> 
> ...


I went to Australia with my son only with carry on bags, which gave me 60 kgs of check in to fill on the way home :dance3:
Pays to think ahead sometimes, especially seeing as that is ironbark and is very dense and heavy.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> Harry,
> 
> I believe that when some turners work with corn cobs, pine cones and banksia nuts, they are soaked in epoxy first.


Now you tell me James, some time ago I bought some corn cobs from the supermarket and tried drying some of them in the sun and the rest in the microwave oven, all that I got was cooked corn cobs! I had hoped to turn them into pens.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Pre band saw I did on occasions re-saw on the table saw as described by Peter but a great deal of finishing was required making the operation very time-consuming and patience is not one of my qualities.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

temper said:


> Thanks for that John.
> 
> Just a few questions:
> 
> ...


HI Gary - basically used the same method except I used stacked featherboards ahead of the blade only. I have a MIlescraft dual feather board set that will stack about 2" tall but you don't need the set. Just stack them up high enough to support the stock as it enters the cut. I don't understand how he took 4 cuts and still left a bit to cut by hand. I do the whole cut in two passes. No featherboards behind the blade, you want the falloff to drop to the side. 
Sorry no pics, my basement shop is temporarily indisposed due to a plumbing issue. Should be back in operation by New Year. :'(


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## rucraz2 (Feb 27, 2009)

*Nice job*

You make it look so easy, nice job.


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

*Jewelry Box PDF*

Here is a PDF of Harry's construction of the jewelry box. Sorry it took so long to get this one out, it's been busy lately.

Darrin


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

*Jewelry Box PDF*

It won't let me attach it.:sad:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

You can split the file up into parts i.e. part one of two and part two of two, then it will upload 

=======



darrink said:


> It won't let me attach it.:sad:


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

darrink said:


> It won't let me attach it.:sad:


That's strange Darrin because the maximum file size is 10Mg


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## mmingo777 (Jan 3, 2011)

Gee Harry - I've been purusing this site for a couple of days now and have not run accross a so well explained process as this beautiful jewelry box. I'm very impressed and hope to get to your skill level someday. Great Work! Terry


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

mmingo777 said:


> Gee Harry - I've been purusing this site for a couple of days now and have not run accross a so well explained process as this beautiful jewelry box. I'm very impressed and hope to get to your skill level someday. Great Work! Terry


Thanks for your kind words Terry. So long as you have the tools, very little skill is required for most of my projects, I'm not what is generally known as a fine woodworker, I have many years of experience and where there's a simple way to do something, that's the route that I take. Mistakes, I make them all the time and show many of them in my threads, also how I fixed them or turned them into features! Just pick one of my projects and after studying each step, give it a go, I think you will surprise both yourself and your husband. Here is a project that might be suitable to have a go at.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi *darrink

Send the file to Mark (via email) and he can upload the BIG PDF file for you,but other than that you are SOL, until Mark reboots the server but he is working on that.. 

=======
*


harrysin said:


> That's strange Darrin because the maximum file size is 10Mg


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