# Shaker cabinet doors (Newbee)



## williams94 (Dec 29, 2008)

Hello all new to this site and have a few questions regarding making new cabinet doors.(shaker Style). Some say to use the same size rail and stile
2 1/2inch some say make them different size what is the correct method.
Next Do I buy Tongue and Groove bit or a cabinet bit (square edge) is there
a differance since I will be using 1/4 birch panel,or do I need the undersize
bit? and is ther a differance in 1/4 shaft or 1/2 I can use either one in my
table. Also would I be better off using a 1 bit or a 2 piece kit.

Thanks


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI williams94

T & G is not the same as the shaker set 
see below

3-Pc Shaker Set
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=03005

Shaker Raised Panel Cabinetmaker Set
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/set_shaker.htm

2.500" is the norm for most of the parts for the doors and the face frame .


============


williams94 said:


> Hello all new to this site and have a few questions regarding making new cabinet doors.(shaker Style). Some say to use the same size rail and stile
> 2 1/2inch some say make them different size what is the correct method.
> Next Do I buy Tongue and Groove bit or a cabinet bit (square edge) is there
> a differance since I will be using 1/4 birch panel,or do I need the undersize
> ...


----------



## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, it is good to have you aboard.


----------



## williams94 (Dec 29, 2008)

Is there a 2 piece set that would also be good.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi williams94

#8837 Shaker 1-5/8" 3/4" 1/2" $69.95
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...rthtml/pages/rail_and_stile_router_bits1.html

It takes a pair of bits to make the frame  and to put in the slot for the panel.


=========



williams94 said:


> Is there a 2 piece set that would also be good.


----------



## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the forums williams94.


----------



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Welcome, N/a!


----------



## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

If I properly understand the question, you don't need two bits. You are placing the 1/4" panel into the groove in the stiles and rails, correct? You just need something to make the 1/4" groove. I would use a 1/4" straight bit with a 1/2" diameter shaft (they are always stronger). You do need a little bit of 'wiggle' room when the panel fits in the groove, so you most likely need to run it twice, after moving the fence just a fraction over, to widen the groove. Of course always do some test cuts first and depending on the depth of cut, you may be better to not do the whole depth at once. I never do.

~Julie~
P. S. I would look for a good resource, either a book or something online if you want your Shaker doors to be correct. Mine had the same size rail and stile, but that may not be "officially" correct.


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

Bj gave you the best option. You need the "Shaker" style bit to do the job.

However, if you're only wanting to put in the slot. A slot cutter would the same.


----------



## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

williams94 said:


> Hello all new to this site and have a few questions regarding making new cabinet doors.(shaker Style). Some say to use the same size rail and stile
> 2 1/2inch some say make them different size what is the correct method.


Most commonly the same width is used for all frame components.



williams94 said:


> Next Do I buy Tongue and Groove bit or a cabinet bit (square edge) is there
> a differance since I will be using 1/4 birch panel,or do I need the undersize
> bit?


Your plywood will likely be less than 1/4" so you need an appropriately sized groove cutter. Adjustable is best to be sure of a proper fit.



williams94 said:


> and is ther a differance in 1/4 shaft or 1/2 I can use either one in my
> table.


 1/2" shank will have less flex and therefore make a more consistent cut.



williams94 said:


> Also would I be better off using a 1 bit or a 2 piece kit.


Go for the two piece because it will provide the most flexibility. Many of the one piece offerings are two 1/4" groovers separated by a bearing to make a 1/4" tongue. The total height is 3/4" so you must use stock that is slightly less than 3/4" to be sure you cut the entire edge. The Freud 99-036 matches what you are after perfectly:
http://www.freudtools.com/p-155-adjustable-tongue-groove-bit-set.aspx


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi williams94

Don't get me wrong I like Freud router bits but they are just out of my price range 

If you want to go with the T & G type take a hard look at the links below,,,
Most T & S sets are made to mill 3/4" thick stock the max and if you adjust the slot cutter down you can only mill 5/8" thick stock , not to neat..
Many times the stock will be 3/4" but sometimes you will want to mill thicker stock and in that case you are SOL....

So I would suggest you get a set that can do it all.. 



11pc 1/4" Shank Slot, Tongue & Groove Router Bit Set

Note*** the 5.2 mm cutter = .205" (13/64") just the right size for 1/4" plywood the norm..plus you get a 3/8" wide cutter...not the norm in T & S sets.plus you can stack them because they have a extra long shank(s) ....not to say anything about using them to make splines that come right out on the button every time. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/11pc-1-4-Shank-...50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.com/11pc-1-2-Shank-...50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
========
Two Piece Tongue & Groove Set
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop.../bit_tongue_groove.html#tongu_paneling_anchor

This set below is setup to do 1/4" plywood,,note the 5mm thick bearning, they are needed to make this set up,you can get them from sommerfeld tools for 3.oo ea. ( 8mm ID x 5mm thick x 1 1/4" OD ) the set will put in a 1/4" deep T & G..

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HC318DZZ


=========


----------



## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

*More is better... *

Personally, I went for the 5-piece set here:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/set_shaker.htm

I haven't received them yet, much less used them... but my rationale is that with this kit, you get the added functionality of a glue-joint bit and a drawer-lock joint.

For your stated use you don't need the raised-panel bit... but I usually find that once I have something, I suddenly find more need for it than I ever imagined. 

Good luck with your (too many?) choices...

Bob


----------



## RUSTYIII (Aug 24, 2011)

charles im new to the forum and i recently purchased the T&G set you are talking about.I am having a heck of a time getting the G to recieve the T !! i thought getting the bits out of the package that they would mate right off but after a couple test pieces i found out that wasnt true. the spacers are so precise that im not sure what im doing wrong. ive adj. and looked at that bit all day, the tounge will just not get right for me.And of course im in the middle of a job,and Ive already messed up aome stile and rails.i route the groove first then i put the rail in my sled and get the tounge.another problem is when i flip it to do the other side its the opposite,meaning my rail is basically twisted (wrong wording) . I cannot for the life of me get the set up right, this is the first time for me to build these doors because i useally outsource for time. anyway if you have any suggestions for me i could use them ,thanks for any help !!!!!! from anybody ,porter cable router table mounted ,but its a older one i belive a lr90 or something one with the clasp you have to clip ,I KNOW ITS USER ERROR BUT MY HEAD HURTS !


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

You should have got some spacers (shims) with the set, just take the cutter off the " G set" and install one shim in place ,that should do the trick..

====



RUSTYIII said:


> charles im new to the forum and i recently purchased the T&G set you are talking about.I am having a heck of a time getting the G to recieve the T !! i thought getting the bits out of the package that they would mate right off but after a couple test pieces i found out that wasnt true. the spacers are so precise that im not sure what im doing wrong. ive adj. and looked at that bit all day, the tounge will just not get right for me.And of course im in the middle of a job,and Ive already messed up aome stile and rails.i route the groove first then i put the rail in my sled and get the tounge.another problem is when i flip it to do the other side its the opposite,meaning my rail is basically twisted (wrong wording) . I cannot for the life of me get the set up right, this is the first time for me to build these doors because i useally outsource for time. anyway if you have any suggestions for me i could use them ,thanks for any help !!!!!! from anybody ,porter cable router table mounted ,but its a older one i belive a lr90 or something one with the clasp you have to clip ,I KNOW ITS USER ERROR BUT MY HEAD HURTS !


----------



## RUSTYIII (Aug 24, 2011)

thanks thats what I was doing but wasnt taking in consideration about middling the piece, sounds retarded i know but today i tried and figure out which shim was what. I do not have a caliper so it was eyeballing,called frued to ask if they could tell me a count or an invoice of the washers in the set, umm .008,.006,.039. and so on is pretty close and try and figure out.But at last today i just started fresh and whipped its a#$ ! It def. helped stepping away for the night and coming in fresh, (not throwing the router table out of the garage)  .........and then there is tommorow


----------

