# Edge Banding Bit



## Guarnera (Feb 25, 2013)

I'm making a cabinet for my table saw/router table combination. I'm using oak veneered ply, and want to edge band it with a contrasting wood. I see edge banding bits with a 30 degree V, or is that 60 degree (2x30 degree) and then the tongue or grove. Is there an advantage using this type of bit over a standard tongue and grove bit?


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Very good question, Tony, especially when you consider that most commercial interior fit-out jobs (bars, hotels, restaurants, department stores, etc) DON'T use that type of edging (which is extremely costly in time and material). If the surfaces are prepared correctly, the joint is glue correctly and the right type of glue is used a butt joint does well enough, so the fancy approach just isn't necessary IMHO

Regards

Phil


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Phil is right. If the surfaces are machined well enough a thin edge band (1/4 or 3/8) will glue on just fine. It may help to smear a thin layer of glue on the plywood, then add a thin layer of glue to the edging, and then do the plywood again before clamping it on. The edge of plywood can suck in the moisture from glue and starve the joint otherwise. Use cauls to help keep pressure over the entire length of the edging when you clamp. It doesn't hurt to have some extra hands when it's time for that. 

If you're going to add a thick edging, I would use biscuits or spline both sides or make it thicker than the top and rabbet the edge so that you can underlap it.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Guarnera said:


> I'm making a cabinet for my table saw/router table combination. I'm using oak veneered ply, and want to edge band it with a contrasting wood. I see edge banding bits with a 30 degree V, or is that 60 degree (2x30 degree) and then the tongue or grove. Is there an advantage using this type of bit over a standard tongue and grove bit?


Hi Tony - I think it would be dependent on how wide you wanted the contrasting piece. Less than about an inch and just glue should be fine. Much over that I think the extra glue surface would be helpful. You loose about 3/8" with the 60° + tongue bit set.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> The edge of plywood can suck in the moisture from glue and starve the joint otherwise.


Good point, Charles. Pretty much all man-made boards (MDF, plywood, particleboard, blockboard end grain) are the same and need to be "primed" with an exra coat of glue BEFORE applying edgebanding to prevent a dry joint. This even applies when using contact adhesive.

Regards

Phil


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## IRONMULE31014 (Feb 16, 2013)

I got to agree hole heartly.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Agreed Phil. Plywood is about the easiest to glue and particle board is the hardest. I like to prime them all and if they appear to be drying out excessively I add another coat and wait to see if it soaks in (usually the particle board). I even like to prime if I'm going to iron on edge banding. The glue that I have found that is the best for edge gluing panel boards is melamine glue (Franklin brand). Interestingly, the manufacturer recommends just brads and no clamping or very light clamping. It's also good for re-gluing edge banding that is coming loose.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I must be the odd ball
MLCS Edge Banding How To - YouTube!
and from
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pc-1-2-SH...804129984?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item1e7488a0c0

I like to use real wood for the edging, it adds mass to the plywood and strength to the cheap plywood,I have the sets from MLCS and from Grizzly for the thin plywood I will use the iron on type if I'm a rush and don't care what it looks like in the end..or on the ends.. 
I like using the T & G type the best...

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katana_bits8.htm
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_edgeband_ogee.html
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/7733.html


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