# Rockler Louver bit



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Got this thing in a week or so ago and was wondering if anyone else has used it and have any tricks about it. Really kind of different in that it is supposed to be a 1/4" depth of cut but the large diameter is 1-1/4 and the bearing is 55/64". Still measures out to a cut depth of 1/4". That, to me says the bearing is only used to set the fence back just a little to ensure a full cut depth. 
First thing I noticed about it was my fence was woefully inadequate to handle the beast. So, made a new fence and featherboard. Those effectively neutralized the dust colletion system on my table. 
I think i'm almost there with it. The Rockler video indicates only 1 rabbet is needed to lock them together but I'm thinking I will need them on both edges (one on top, the other on the bottom) as the thickness I ended up with is the same on both edges


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI John

It's a tricky bit but you must stick to the 3" wide stock or use 6 1/4" wide stock and rip it down after the mill work, you only need a very small rabbet on one side of the stock, take one more look at the video below but stop it many times and rewind it many times to see what they are talking about,,

Louver Router Bit - Rockler Woodworking Tools

I will say it's easy to do on the Horz.router table something like below.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/23364-mitered-raised-panel-doors.html

Just a note, I notice the links are dead on the post above but here's some new ones that work.  ▼ with the great prices.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PC-1-2-SH...563732723?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item1e663474f3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PC-1-2-SH...589941365?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item20bbd04275

Just a note John .....if you are going to use the T & G bit set for the frame to hold the Louver panel you want to make them 3 1/4" + wide so you have some stock hanging out for the joints..set the T & G bits set so it only cuts 1/4" deep..(with the router table fence) but take care when milling the cross grain of the panel you may get some rip out.. but with a little bit of sanding it's fine.. 


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jschaben said:


> Got this thing in a week or so ago and was wondering if anyone else has used it and have any tricks about it. Really kind of different in that it is supposed to be a 1/4" depth of cut but the large diameter is 1-1/4 and the bearing is 55/64". Still measures out to a cut depth of 1/4". That, to me says the bearing is only used to set the fence back just a little to ensure a full cut depth.
> First thing I noticed about it was my fence was woefully inadequate to handle the beast. So, made a new fence and featherboard. Those effectively neutralized the dust colletion system on my table.
> I think i'm almost there with it. The Rockler video indicates only 1 rabbet is needed to lock them together but I'm thinking I will need them on both edges (one on top, the other on the bottom) as the thickness I ended up with is the same on both edges


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Bob - thanks,,, took another look at the video. Didn't have the bit height set right. Just playing with scrap now to get it figured out


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Been playing with this thing some more. For me it seems to work better starting with 2-13/16" stock, 2-3/4 will work. The one on the right is starting with 3" stock and leaves the lip on the edge that needs to be ripped off. The other is 2-13/16" stock with the bit height set to just round over the top louver. This one is ready for a 5/16"x3/16" dado which also puts the seam right under the lower edge of the adjacent louver. I watched that video about a dozen times and it never did say anything about what to do with that lip thats left. The flat area refered to is on the other end of the profile I've got a 1x2 ft panel drying right now, came out pretty good. Except I've got a dozen more 3" panels already ripped down that need to be redone:fie:


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