# DB25 Parallel Cable



## silverfox61 (Aug 22, 2014)

I"m building a cnc router and the Kit I bought came with a DB25 Parallel Cable. The Breakout Broad has a DB25 port on it but my computer dosen't. My question is, Is there another type cable that I need to buy or i'm I missing something


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

If you are using a desktop type and not a laptop, you could buy an add on card. I would open the case and see if you have any available expansion slots for a card.

I don't know if it will work for you. Years ago, I had two printer ports for dedicated printers. That was how I set them up. LPT1 and LPT2.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Richard.


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## Iceman567 (Apr 29, 2012)

USB to Parallel(DB25 Female) Converter Cable - 4ft (DB25) - Monoprice.com


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

If your computer is a laptop, another alternative is to buy the docking station for your model. I needed a station for my Dell (tempted to say Jet) D630. 10.95 with free UPS shipping from the Bay.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Hmmm...I like the idea of the USB -> DB25 cable. Sounds like a simple fix. I have bought from Monoprice several times in the past.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

LOL... I have that same DELL docking station. I gave away 4 of them and kept one.


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## bgriggs (Nov 26, 2008)

MT Stringer said:


> Hmmm...I like the idea of the USB -> DB25 cable. Sounds like a simple fix. I have bought from Monoprice several times in the past.


That won't work. USB does not have access to the timers on the motherboard. You will need either a parallel port card to add to your computer or a motion control card like the Smoothstepper.

I know that the cable will not work. The choice is yours how you proceed. Personally I would go with a Smoothstepper if you are using Mach3.

here is a blog post I wrote about motion control cards. Motion Control - THE MAKERS GUIDE

Contact me if you need help.

Bill


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Good info, Bill. Thanks. I hope it helps the OP.


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## Steve B. (Mar 4, 2012)

Richard,
Bill is correct. The USB to DB25 adapter cable does sound like a simple fix, but it won't work with CNC. Just another thought: if you do order additional hardware for your computer, add a couple of DB25 gender changers to your shopping list. They are cheap and Murphy's Law says that you will eventually find that you need one. Might as well buy it now rather than put up with the annoying delay later. Good luck with the project! Steve in California


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## silverfox61 (Aug 22, 2014)

Thanks, guys, for your input on the parallel cable. I took Bill's advice and purchased Vantech UGT-PC10PL Parallel PC1 host card. I watched a couple videos on you tube about checking voltage on the DB25 pins. It said I should be getting 4.3 volts when I clicked the left arrow and 0 volts when I clicked the right arrow. The problem I am seeing is that I'm getting 60 volts. I'm not sure if I'm reading the meter right but that's what its saying. It doesn't change the state from going from right to left arrows. I wouldn't think that the circuit board would be capable of putting out 60 volts, but I am new at this. I could sure use some help. Does anyone have any ideas on what I may be doing wrong?


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Once you're on the DC side of the power supply there should not be more than 12V on any place on any of the circuit boards. Might be a mis-read...the 'puter wouldn't work with that much voltage going on...


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

silverfox61 said:


> Thanks, guys, for your input on the parallel cable. I took Bill's advice and purchased Vantech UGT-PC10PL Parallel PC1 host card. I watched a couple videos on you tube about checking voltage on the DB25 pins. It said I should be getting 4.3 volts when I clicked the left arrow and 0 volts when I clicked the right arrow. The problem I am seeing is that I'm getting 60 volts. I'm not sure if I'm reading the meter right but that's what its saying. It doesn't change the state from going from right to left arrows. I wouldn't think that the circuit board would be capable of putting out 60 volts, but I am new at this. I could sure use some help. Does anyone have any ideas on what I may be doing wrong?


Agreed w/ the last post... 110v AC to a microcomputer power supply, which converts it to DC and steps it down to 12v (usually yellow), 5v (usually red) and 3v (usually orange). 12v are to accessories and HD video. Most of the board is held at a regulated 5v... Higher and it will fry the IC's. At the USB ports, the charge circuit there is 5 volts.

I used to check that all with VOM's... But now I just use plug in digital testers.


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## bgriggs (Nov 26, 2008)

silverfox61 said:


> Thanks, guys, for your input on the parallel cable. I took Bill's advice and purchased Vantech UGT-PC10PL Parallel PC1 host card. I watched a couple videos on you tube about checking voltage on the DB25 pins. It said I should be getting 4.3 volts when I clicked the left arrow and 0 volts when I clicked the right arrow. The problem I am seeing is that I'm getting 60 volts. I'm not sure if I'm reading the meter right but that's what its saying. It doesn't change the state from going from right to left arrows. I wouldn't think that the circuit board would be capable of putting out 60 volts, but I am new at this. I could sure use some help. Does anyone have any ideas on what I may be doing wrong?


I believe you are using the Volt meter incorrectly. Do you have an eletronics friend who can help? If not I would be willing to Skype with you to see what we can find out.

I would hate to see you get electrocuted. Be careful.

Bill


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## Steve B. (Mar 4, 2012)

Richard- Again, I have to agree with Bill. My first thought is that most people don't have auto-ranging multimeters. You might be reading your voltage on the millivolt scale instead of the volt scale. Check the voltage scale selector. Also, you might check the function selector to make sure your are reading volts, and not ohms or current (amps). Secondly, you may be just having connection problems with the meter probes. Often the probe tips will not reach far enough into a DB25 female pin hole to make contact. Get small pieces of wire to insert into the female pin holes so you can get a good contact on the other end of the wires with the meter probes (a paper clip will work in a pinch). Male connectors are no fun either. Shorting the pin you are testing to an adjacent pin with the probe is too easy. There are slip on connectors (probably at Radio Shack) which extend the pins out that make the job much easier. Good luck! Steve in California


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