# My circle jig



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Harry 

As promised, here are some photos of the circle jig I made based on yours.

I have not added the Formica as yet.

I may have misunderstood your instructions as I added the T-nuts before the formica. Was that correct?

I purchased a small bench grinder this morning so will grind a groove around the rod tomorrow and glue the rods in place.

James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

That's looking perfect James, just round all the corners. It's correct to add the Formica after the T nuts. Cover one side and drill a small hole through each T nut from the open side then drill a countersink in the Formica using a twist drill a size or two bigger than the thread size. Repeat the procedure on the other side. The diameter of the rods looks rather small, which router have you made it for? The thickness of the Formica might require you to sand a touch off the bottom of the block.


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## GTVi (May 14, 2010)

James/Harry,
I apologize if these questions sound silly. 
What are the advantages of using the t-nuts?
Where do you use the formica in this design? and what purpose does it serve?
Thanks,
Bill


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

GTVi said:


> James/Harry,
> I apologize if these questions sound silly.
> What are the advantages of using the t-nuts?
> Where do you use the formica in this design? and what purpose does it serve?
> ...


No question is considered silly on this forum Bill, the T nuts, or if preferred, threaded bushes are the coarse radius adjustment for the fulcrum pin to screw into, whilst the router slides on the rods then is locked for fine adjustment, making the jig infinitely adjustable within it's design range.
The Laminex ensures that the jig slides smoothly on the material being routed and it's good practice to laminate both sides to prevent curving.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> That's looking perfect James, just round all the corners. It's correct to add the Formica after the T nuts. Cover one side and drill a small hole through each T nut from the open side then drill a countersink in the Formica using a twist drill a size or two bigger than the thread size. Repeat the procedure on the other side. The diameter of the rods looks rather small, which router have you made it for? The thickness of the Formica might require you to sand a touch off the bottom of the block.



Harry,

Did some touch up work on the jig after I finished the flag case today.

I smoothed the edges in the cutout, rounded the corners and glued the rods in with 2 part araldite.

The rods are for the Ryobi router which I will leave attached to the jig.

The rods don't have to support the router, only locked to set the radius.

I may have to work on the router as it looks like the 1/2' cutter is jammed in the collet. I will fix this after I return from Grafton.

I will do the formica after Grafton.

Also I will have to cut off some 1/4" bolts use as fulcrum pins.

James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

WOW, that's one hell of a big cutter! Coach bolts are the way to make the pins because of the un-threaded part, a saw cut at both ends and a quick grind and you have pins faster than I can make the in the lathe!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> WOW, that's one hell of a big cutter! Coach bolts are the way to make the pins because of the un-threaded part, a saw cut at both ends and a quick grind and you have pins faster than I can make the in the lathe!



I plan to use a 1/4" cutter, but the 1/2" is jammed in the collet at the moment.

Thanks for the tip on the coach bolts.

James


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## DominikPierog (Jul 5, 2010)

harrysin said:


> No question is considered silly on this forum Bill, the T nuts, or if preferred, threaded bushes are the coarse radius adjustment for the fulcrum pin to screw into, whilst the router slides on the rods then is locked for fine adjustment, making the jig infinitely adjustable within it's design range.
> The Laminex ensures that the jig slides smoothly on the material being routed and it's good practice to laminate both sides to prevent curving.


I make something similar.
I attach original Router fence (?) to plywood.
Works nice but I make mistake in calculation and I can't cut small (r < 5 cm) circles .


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

I made this circle jig. It works good but the center pin is too short and the base is too thick (3/4"). Just ordered some longer bits but I'm already planning another version. The pointer for the scale is adjustable but it seems impossible to get it set right. The disks come out 1/32" too small and the hole 1/32" too big but when I put the disk in the hole and measure the gap, it comes out to 1/2" which is what it should be (used a 1/4" bit). Must be my measuring tools ... 

I used 3/8 diameter steel rod from Home Depot. It took a while to find some that were nearly straight. I had to roll them on the floor of the store to check for wobble. Funny thing though; just as I finished cutting the 4ft rod into two 23 inch pieces, UPS delivered the 10mm precision ground (to +0/-.0005 inches), stainless steel rod I found on Amazon. I orderd two of these from Amazon for $25 each, which is pretty good since they're 6ft long. I now have plenty of steel for skis and other jigs.

I may add a large hole just in front of the center pin to make it easier to see the hole in the workpiece. The next one will be made of clear acrylic.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

RJM60 said:


> I made this circle jig. It works good but the center pin is too short and the base is too thick (3/4"). Just ordered some longer bits but I'm already planning another version. The pointer for the scale is adjustable but it seems impossible to get it set right. The disks come out 1/32" too small and the hole 1/32" too big but when I put the disk in the hole and measure the gap, it comes out to 1/2" which is what it should be (used a 1/4" bit). Must be my measuring tools ...
> 
> I used 3/8 diameter steel rod from Home Depot. It took a while to find some that were nearly straight. I had to roll them on the floor of the store to check for wobble. Funny thing though; just as I finished cutting the 4ft rod into two 23 inch pieces, UPS delivered the 10mm precision ground (to +0/-.0005 inches), stainless steel rod I found on Amazon. I orderd two of these from Amazon for $25 each, which is pretty good since they're 6ft long. I now have plenty of steel for skis and other jigs.
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Cir.jig,,,Many forget they got one when they got the router, they got it in the box and it's called a edge guide, if it's flip over and than put in place you have a very quick cir. jig, and some just need a block of wood screw on the edge guide most come with center pin hole put in place just to cut out a cir.
It looks almost like your jig..but it was free 

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harrysin said:


> RJM60 said:
> 
> 
> > I made this circle jig. It works good but the center pin is too short and the base is too thick (3/4"). Just ordered some longer bits but I'm already planning another version. The pointer for the scale is adjustable but it seems impossible to get it set right. The disks come out 1/32" too small and the hole 1/32" too big but when I put the disk in the hole and measure the gap, it comes out to 1/2" which is what it should be (used a 1/4" bit). Must be my measuring tools ...
> ...


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Cir.jig,,,Many forget they got one when they got the router, they got it in the box and it's called a edge guide, if it's flip over and than put in place you have a very quick cir. jig, and some just need a block of wood screw on the edge guide most come with center pin hole put in place just to cut out a cir.
> It looks almost like your jig..but it was free
> ...


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

harrysin said:


> Robert, I realised a long time ago that the only way to rout a truly accurate size hole/disc is to drawer a circle and set the jig dead on the line. I also found that making an illuminated base for the router made a huge difference, here is a link to the thread.
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/lobby/15675-making-illuminated-router-base.html


I've seen that illuminated base plate before (and the one at MLCS). It's nice. As for the most accurate size circle, I'm not sure I aggree with you yet. The whole idea of a lead tipped compass seems like it would introduce it's own error (settting the compass, the line width, etc). Also, since I'm going to make another attempt at a significantly different circle jig (but not for a bit), I can't agree with you yet, otherwise what would be the point of the next one. Thanks for the info; I value your input.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

RJM60 said:


> I've seen that illuminated base plate before (and the one at MLCS). It's nice. As for the most accurate size circle, I'm not sure I aggree with you yet. The whole idea of a lead tipped compass seems like it would introduce it's own error (settting the compass, the line width, etc). Also, since I'm going to make another attempt at a significantly different circle jig (but not for a bit), I can't agree with you yet, otherwise what would be the point of the next one. Thanks for the info; I value your input.


These shots taken whilst correcting an error illustrate just how accurate the method is, using a freshly sharpened pencil in the compass!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Cir.jig,,,Many forget they got one when they got the router, they got it in the box and it's called a edge guide, if it's flip over and than put in place you have a very quick cir. jig, and some just need a block of wood screw on the edge guide most come with center pin hole put in place just to cut out a cir.
> It looks almost like your jig..but it was free
> ...


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## petermontg (Aug 10, 2010)

any ideas on a free floating system or a more accurate vaccum suction


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Hi all
That is mine


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## jbooherjr (Feb 21, 2010)

*My small circle jig*

With this design the power cord does not wrap around the router as you cut the circle. The router remains in the same orientation as you rotate around the circle


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

And an other, without having to drill a hole for the centre (center glued) - for large holes


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

And an other, without having to drill a hole for the centre (center glued) - for little holes (0 to 300 mm)


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

petermontg said:


> any ideas on a free floating system or a more accurate vaccum suction


Hi Peter:

Ok, you've got Santé's jigs, above and all can be combined with a vacuum table. There is also a pivot frame on a circle template which is more difficult on a vacuum table.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi guys

No need to see the nasty pivot hole in the stock, just do it backwards and just stick the pivot block in place with some DST ,once the cir./hole is cut out just pop the block off the stock.

======


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi guys
> 
> No need to see the nasty pivot hole in the stock, just do it backwards and just stick the pivot block in place with some DST ,once the cir./hole is cut out just pop the block off the stock.
> 
> ======



BJ,

Is that the Rockler Elipse Jig.

How small an elipse can you cut with that.

Also is it easy to drill your "famous 1" hole" in the jig so you can use a bushing instead of screwing the router to the jig.

I have just ordered one and hope it arrives this week


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James

Yes that"s it, the stock one will do 8" small ovals but you know me I rework it so it can do 6" ones now  I use the ski jig and made the slot longer, 4" from the router hole port with a female knob system, so the jig can slide over the " X " fixture..plus I made a smaller X board for the smaller oval, plus a I made new fixture for doing cir.cut outs..

To make a smaller X fixture ,start with a 8" board put the dovetail slots in place and than clip off the corners off the sq. board..just like the one it came with but smaller..so the router can swing by it easy.

The guide takes the need alway from bolting it to the jig and keeps the cord to one side al the time..and out of the path of the router bit..

It's best to use the 1 1/2" guides ( it comes with a 1 1/2" hole in the jig) but I made a fixture to use the PC guides as well (1 3/16" type) some of the plunge bits have a bigger OD,in that way you can plunge down and put the profile on both parts at one time..or a rebait for a picture frame all with a pass or two 

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jw2170 said:


> BJ,
> 
> Is that the Rockler Elipse Jig.
> 
> ...


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Thanks BJ.

BTW what are you doing up this late......LOL


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James

You're Welcome 

Not to sure ,, sometimes I hang out waiting for Harry to show up  he is a 10:30 show most of the time..and I love to read his post it helps me sleep, knowing that you are in good hands 

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jw2170 said:


> Thanks BJ.
> 
> BTW what are you doing up this late......LOL


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi James
> 
> You're Welcome
> 
> ...


Because so little of interest is happening of late on the forum Bob, I've been coming on earlier, between 8 and 9pm our time and leaving soon after, not feeling in the mood to start using my wooden spoon. As the weather will soon start warming up as spring approaches, I'll probably recommence regular posting. Today I wasn't in the mood to make sawdust so I remembered that three years ago (date shown on the receipt) I bought at the bargain price of $99.00, a security system consisting of two wireless colour cameras in substantial metal waterproof cases, each with a plug pack power supply, also a four channel sequential receiver with it's own plug pack. the cameras have a light sensor which switches the camera to black/white at the same time turning on a circle of infra red LED's for night vision. Well, I tried them at the time and was disappointed with the signal, lots of interference so I decided to keep my existing black/white cameras in service and one day modify the colour ones to give composite video out. Today was the day and the operation was successful.

Edit: I forgot to add that when I bought the system there was a third camera by redemption making it a fantastic deal here in Australia.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*What is this thick goooey stuff?*

Well, moving forward on the circle jig, I used my Fathers Day gift to purcahse some spray paint and contact adhesive.

Used the adhesive to repair the "hook and loop" base on my palm sander and also to add formica to one side of the circle jig.

When others use this gel contact adhesive, what do you use to spread the gel?

I used the provided applicator and also a 1" paint brush.

The other side goes on tomorrow after I drill some holes.....


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I use whatever is handy at the time James, a scrap strip of MDF, a metal spatula or a paint scraper and spread it nice and thin right up to the edges.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

Here's just one more way to cut a cir.out this time it's on the router table that Harry hates 

Router Forums - View Single Post - Circle Jig

===========


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I think the idea of that method is quite clever Bob, but the idea of a cutter sticking out from the centre of a table horrifies me especially when there are much safer methods like the jig that James is making, which is not only infinitely adjustable, but is so safe when used with a plunge router where the cutter immediately retracts into the body of the router when pressure is released.
As experienced routologists, the likes of you and me should be promoting SAFE methods to beginners, that's why I'm so against fixed base routers being used hand held by anyone other than professionals who use them constantly every working day.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I think the router table can do so much more than the plunge router and you know I like the plunge routers many have just one router and after they have for a bit they want a table to put it in..many bits now days are bigger than 1 1/4" OD and it can be unsafe to use them in a hand router ..

The cir.jig in the router table is safe..  I must have 10 cir.jigs if not more for the hand router,I have one just like yours made of 1/2" thick plastic or to say almost like yours but it full adjustable from 1" to 14" with a slide device..

http://www.routerforums.com/202569-post13.html

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harrysin said:


> I think the idea of that method is quite clever Bob, but the idea of a cutter sticking out from the centre of a table horrifies me especially when there are much safer methods like the jig that James is making, which is not only infinitely adjustable, but is so safe when used with a plunge router where the cutter immediately retracts into the body of the router when pressure is released.
> As experienced routologists, the likes of you and me should be promoting SAFE methods to beginners, that's why I'm so against fixed base routers being used hand held by anyone other than professionals who use them constantly every working day.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> I think the router table can do so much more than the plunge router and you know I like the plunge routers many have just one router and after they have for a bit they want a table to put it in..many bits now days are bigger than 1 1/4" OD and it can be unsafe to use them in a hand router ..
> 
> ...


Once again Bob I can't help but admire your imagination and skill, but what happened to KISS, this jig shown, like the one James is completing, is so simple to make and use and depending on cutter diameter, covers from about 1.25" to 20" but this can be extended by increasing it's length.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> I use whatever is handy at the time James, a scrap strip of MDF, a metal spatula or a paint scraper and spread it nice and thin right up to the edges.


Harry,

If the adhesive is being used on a flat surface, is there any advantage by using the gel type against the liquid type.?

I am asking because I may not have spread the gel as thin as I might have.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> I think the router table can do so much more than the plunge router and you know I like the plunge routers many have just one router and after they have for a bit they want a table to put it in..many bits now days are bigger than 1 1/4" OD and it can be unsafe to use them in a hand router ..
> 
> ...


Thanks again for the suggestions BJ, but as I now have 4 circle jigs in various stages of completion, I think I will stick with that.......:wacko:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

The KISS way 

Just one more cir .jig and Ski jig all in one, plus a shot of the rods without threads for Harry...,No threads on the end of the rods , the springs do all the work..and take the need of threads on the rods away, I still need to pickup some big star washer (Int.and Ext. type all in one lock washer..) with a big OD to lock the rods up to the ski feet.
A small hand clamp is used to load up the springs.(welding clamp) just about any small clamp will do the job.

I wanted a way to move the feet in and having threads on just the ends it can't be done..

========
see the PDF file on the link below, how to use the jig for cir.jobs..
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/22583-trend-jig.html

=====

=========


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James


Let me say I'm sorry for high jacking your thread../..post

I didn't know where else to put the items below other than with the other ones I posted 

Many know I like to use all thread rods for the ski jigs but I also use the solid rod type, see below,,,in some ways they are a bit easy-er to adjust and make up but you need to rework a small clamp to compress /load the springs up and than lock them in place, the star lock washer will lock them to the feet and lock the rods in place .

You can get all the parts needed from just about any ACE hardware store, off the rack stuff..Harry said I forgot about the KISS rule, I think not, this way is so easy and a true KISS way...any one can make a ski jig setup without the need of a machine shop to thread the ends of the rods...

Plus you can put the rods in place and still move the router to any place you want it to be..to take some of the load off the LONG rods..(36" the norm)

=========


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi James
> 
> 
> Let me say I'm sorry for high jacking your thread../..post
> ...


BJ, no apologies required.

I consider these threads as a "pub chat". A group of mates standing around talking....

Thats why I have to read every new thread.

As long as we don't get too far of topic, I have no problem.

Although we have had enough metric bashing.........JUST KIDDING....LOL


I hope to be in your vicinity next October...on the way from PA to Mt Rushmore....


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi James
> 
> 
> Let me say I'm sorry for high jacking your thread../..post
> ...


My dear, dear friiend Bob, this ski set-up is magnificent, I'm sure that if it were to be entered in a modern art exhibition it would win first prize! But as for general ski routing I'm afraid that it's over engineered and lacks versatility, by that I mean that it can't be quickly adjusted to perform all the many functions that basic skis can as shown in these few shots. I feel that new members could be put off making skis when they view what looks like a complicated piece of engineering. Whilst I have always pushed smooth rods threaded at both ends, I've never objected to allthread, it's just not as elegant as smooth rods which wouldn't cost a fortune to have made and nothing if one can find a friend or a friend of a friend with a lathe. I have personally threaded several sets of rods for friends and acquaintances over the years.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> My dear, dear friiend Bob, this ski set-up is magnificent, I'm sure that if it were to be entered in a modern art exhibition it would win first prize! But as for general ski routing I'm afraid that it's over engineered and lacks versatility, by that I mean that it can't be quickly adjusted to perform all the many functions that basic skis can as shown in these few shots. I feel that new members could be put off making skis when they view what looks like a complicated piece of engineering. Whilst I have always pushed smooth rods threaded at both ends, I've never objected to allthread, it's just not as elegant as smooth rods which wouldn't cost a fortune to have made and nothing if one can find a friend or a friend of a friend with a lathe. I have personally threaded several sets of rods for friends and acquaintances over the years.


Harry,
Does this mean, if I turn up with a bottle of Glenfiddich, I will be able to take a set back with me to Sydney????????


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## Tom76 (Aug 28, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi James
> 
> 
> Let me say I'm sorry for high jacking your thread../..post
> ...


Bob
I am sure James would not be able to rout Circles with that set up
Nna


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> Harry,
> Does this mean, if I turn up with a bottle of Glenfiddich, I will be able to take a set back with me to Sydney????????


No need to bring anything other than yourself and your wife James, in fact I'll be annoyed if you do. Please let me know what diameter and length you want and I'll see what I can do before you get here in three weeks time.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nna

Read the link below and the PDF file on that link, it will show you how to cut a cir.with the jig and so much more. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18CUKZo2JUE

Router Forums - View Single Post - Trend Jig

http://www.amazon.com/Trend-PFJ-SET...ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1284473429&sr=1-7

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Nna71 said:


> Bob
> I am sure James would not be able to rout Circles with that set up
> Nna


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

Just one more way to make a clamp to compress the springs on the ski jig rods..

http://www.grizzly.com/products/category.aspx?key=140040
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2010/Main/352


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OT3i6CNEjUo&NR=1
=========


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> No need to bring anything other than yourself and your wife James, in fact I'll be annoyed if you do. Please let me know what diameter and length you want and I'll see what I can do before you get here in three weeks time.


Harry,

as we discussed last night, make them to fit the Makita, 12mm rod about 700mm long.

:sold:


Thanks.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> Harry,
> 
> as we discussed last night, make them to fit the Makita, 12mm rod about 700mm long.
> 
> ...


I bought a 4 metre off-cut of 12mm bright mild steel rod this morning and threaded both ends of one of the 700mm lengths for your skis, I'll make the second one in a day or two.
Regarding contact adhesive gel, it's much easier to apply and spread than the liquid and appears to have a much longer shelf life plus, it's far less messy.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Just one more way to make a clamp to compress the springs on the ski jig rods..
> 
> ...


Ah my friend, everything you have shown is aesthetically very beautiful, but at age 76 soon to be 77, I have to keep things very simple, consistent with achieving a perfect job in the simplest way possible. Don't get me wrong Bob, when I was younger I spent most of MY time making jigs for wood and metalworking, some so complex that when I was sorting my last shed of 34 years to move to our new home,I found some amazing jigs which I couldn't for the life of me figure out what I made them for. These days, as you know from my projects, all the jigs that I show can easily be made by beginners.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*I have finished....*

I finally put the finishing touches to the circle jig today.

Added the second side of Formica and trimmed off using a bearing guided flush trim bit on the OP router table with safety pin.

When I went to use the jig to make a template for the inlay tile on the lazy susan, my old 6mm bit snapped off.

This was a cheap 6mm bit from a set I bought when I first took up the router.

Thanks to Template Tom and Harry for the inspiration.

The jig was easy to make and is easy to use.

I use the Ryobi router on the jig so it is very light.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Apart from the thinner rods, it could be a clone of mine, well done James, can't this routing lark be pleasant, even exciting.


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Here's my version put together over the weekend.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi James
> 
> 
> Let me say I'm sorry for high jacking your thread../..post
> ...


Hi BJ

These look great - certainly removes the need to get the rod milled and threaded - which is what I'm possibly struggling with at present. That said, having to use a modified clamp to load the springs looks a tad fiddly - but the ability to be able to reduce the rod span is cool. I wonder where I'd get some lock collars like those here in NZ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I really don't think that my good friend Bj came up with his best idea on this one, compared to wing nuts or even two nuts with all-thread, it's pretty clumsy. Sorry Bob, but you wanted me back and you know that I speak my mind, but at the same time, when I heap praise on a member, you know it's genuine.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Ping /Pong

Most don't have the money or a machine shop down the road ,it's the bottom line thing for most of us  I would like to see every one give the skis a try out and this is a way they can get all the parts needed they can get them from just about any hardware store, than if they like the ski set up they can make more than one set like I have done..I'm up to 8 now  see what you started mate..

Do this just for kicks pull the plug on your lathe and say I don't have one and than make a set.. and come up with a way everyone can do it without a machine shop/lathe..don't forget most will not take the time to go to a machine..just use what they have on hand..or they can get easy..

=======

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harrysin said:


> I really don't think that my good friend Bj came up with his best idea on this one, compared to wing nuts or even two nuts with all-thread, it's pretty clumsy. Sorry Bob, but you wanted me back and you know that I speak my mind, but at the same time, when I heap praise on a member, you know it's genuine.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

They may look a bit fiddly but they are Not once you lock them in place you are done with that part of the job just like using a wing nut or hex nut, it's just a easy way to make them without the need for any threads at all..the plunge router will do most of the work for you.. 

I will say the star lock washer is the key to keep them in place..once loaded the lock washer will lock the parts into the feet..

=====


matt1710 said:


> Hi BJ
> 
> These look great - certainly removes the need to get the rod milled and threaded - which is what I'm possibly struggling with at present. That said, having to use a modified clamp to load the springs looks a tad fiddly - but the ability to be able to reduce the rod span is cool. I wonder where I'd get some lock collars like those here in NZ...


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

I've used (unthreaded) steel rods for skis. I added threads with a 12mm die (set of 8,10 & 12 for $10). Two inches of thread on each end of 2 rods took about an hour and the threads are wiggly but they work fine.

I could have used a 3/8" rod but the Bosch base seems to made for 12mm and I wanted the largest diameter I could get.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

I used a 1/4" bolt (not a lag) with the threads cut off but it was too short. I since got a longer one and replaced it. It needs to be long enought to go thru the worpiece and into the sacrificial board underneath, otherwise the circle you're cutting will become loose as you complete the cut. If you're cutting a hole, you'll end up with a notch when the router moves.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

RJM60 said:


> I used a 1/4" bolt (not a lag) with the threads cut off but it was too short. I since got a longer one and replaced it. It needs to be long enought to go thru the worpiece and into the sacrificial board underneath, otherwise the circle you're cutting will become loose as you complete the cut. If you're cutting a hole, you'll end up with a notch when the router moves.


That's another way of doing it, Robert.

Could you shot a photo with the router attached?


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Here you go.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

RJM60 said:


> Here you go.


Thanks Robert,

I like the micro-adjuster.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

RJM60 said:


> Here you go.


An excellent job Robert and a novel approach, the only downside that I can see, is you can't see the cutter to set it on a marked circle for a really accurate size.and a small template guide soon fills with swarf. This isn't meant as criticism Robert, but rather to point out what years of experience has taught me. The answer is of course simple, a larger template guide and slot to suit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice jig Robert

How about a jig that needs no center (pivot ) hole ( from a 1/2" to a 6" cut out )

YouTube - Trend Pivot Frame Jig

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