# Smoothing the top of a cutting board.



## jigman (Oct 11, 2009)

Has anyone made a jig to smooth the top of a cutting board with a router? Can it be done with a router table? I have one I am working on and I need to level the top of it. I thought about my router table but I can see a problem using it. I would think after you have leveled about half of it witht he table router you would have to put a shim in to keep the same height. I am looking for suggestions. Thanks.


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

I guess you could do it with skis. I use a wide drum sander.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

YouTube - Woodhaven Planing Sleds
Video | Woodhaven

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## jigman (Oct 11, 2009)

Thanks for the information. That is what I was thinking about. I could easily make my own stand to do it. I like the one where he is pushing a router over a large table. 
The Drum sander would clog with the oil and wax that is on the board. Thanks


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

I have used a belt sander very successfully.

Mike


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

jigman said:


> Thanks for the information. That is what I was thinking about. I could easily make my own stand to do it. I like the one where he is pushing a router over a large table.
> The Drum sander would clog with the oil and wax that is on the board. Thanks



duh, you didn't say they were used cutting boards....


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

jigman said:


> Has anyone made a jig to smooth the top of a cutting board with a router? Can it be done with a router table? I have one I am working on and I need to level the top of it. I thought about my router table but I can see a problem using it. I would think after you have leveled about half of it witht he table router you would have to put a shim in to keep the same height. I am looking for suggestions. Thanks.


Reel,
Here is a link to a thread that shows many different styles of skis that could be used to smooth the top of a cutting board.. You could build a set of these, and use them for other things, unlike the sled from Woodhaven, that seems to only have a single purpose.

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/25155-wanted-pictures-your-skiis.html

Darrin


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I thnk the Woodhaven jig is a step or two above the ski jig,it looks like it can do all the same jobs without any sag of the router.
I'm making a fixture like it just to check it out..

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darrink said:


> Reel,
> Here is a link to a thread that shows many different styles of skis that could be used to smooth the top of a cutting board.. You could build a set of these, and use them for other things, unlike the sled from Woodhaven, that seems to only have a single purpose.
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/25155-wanted-pictures-your-skiis.html
> ...


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## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

I'm going to invest in some card scrapers this spring and try them out. It seems to me that they would excel at a job like this.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> I thnk the Woodhaven jig is a step or two above the ski jig,it looks like it can do all the same jobs without any sag of the router.
> I'm making a fixture like it just to check it out..
> ...


BJ... I have the 39" Woodhaven jig and you're exactly right. There's nothing wild about it; if you want any close-up pics just PM me. I bought it because I wanted to flatten my prototype benchtop and didn't have the time to make one. Its just based on 80/20-type stock. It does what it does very well and their arbor w/1-3/8" replacable cutter cuts bottoms really smooth. For my uses it'll serve just fine as a wide planer.

I'm planning on taking pictures of my final bench build but this is where I use construction-grade (knotty) lumber and make my mistakes. It'll also give me a bench to use in building my bench since I currently have none.

Jim

Jim


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

Thanks, I'm using the HF plate and the 80/20 stock, still need to get some more parts, I don't have a need for it right now but can't have to many jigs  I'm trying to make it so it can do more than one job..  dado slot,blind dovetails ,Faux panels ,etc.


Jim just a note , is the 1 3/8" cutter a high speed cutter.??

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BigJimAK said:


> BJ... I have the 39" Woodhaven jig and you're exactly right. There's nothing wild about it; if you want any close-up pics just PM me. I bought it because I wanted to flatten my prototype benchtop and didn't have the time to make one. Its just based on 80/20-type stock. It does what it does very well and their arbor w/1-3/8" replacable cutter cuts bottoms really smooth. For my uses it'll serve just fine as a wide planer.
> 
> I'm planning on taking pictures of my final bench build but this is where I use construction-grade (knotty) lumber and make my mistakes. It'll also give me a bench to use in building my bench since I currently have none.
> 
> ...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Jim
> 
> Thanks, I'm using the HF plate and the 80/20 stock, still need to get some more parts, I don't have a need for it right now but can't have to many jigs  I'm trying to make it so it can do more than one job..  dado slot,blind dovetails ,Faux panels ,etc.
> 
> ...


I didn't look, BJ, but assumed it was. It has held up amazingly well though... and the way it's designed sharpening would be a breeze. I've planed the top and bottom of the 3'x7' bench twice each side, removing about 1/8" per cut and it was cutting as well when I was done as when I started. My catch bag on my Jet DC1100 DC went from 5% to 75% full just from that planing so even though it was only knotty fir there was a whole lot of cutting going on!

I picked up the planing sled and a Rockler T-bolt kit with precisely the idea of using it for multiple jigs. I specifically like their taper jig setup (but not the price)and figure the 48" bars that come with the sled would certainly give you plenty of length!! 

The sled, as it comes, is a natural for a large set of skiis.. if you want to be able to travers the bars and be able to plunge without discernable deflection. You're onto something great with that 80/20 stock, BJ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

Thanks, now you must post some snapshots 

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BigJimAK said:


> I didn't look, BJ, but assumed it was. It has held up amazingly well though... and the way it's designed sharpening would be a breeze. I've planed the top and bottom of the 3'x7' bench twice each side, removing about 1/8" per cut and it was cutting as well when I was done as when I started. My catch bag on my Jet DC1100 DC went from 5% to 75% full just from that planing so even though it was only knotty fir there was a whole lot of cutting going on!
> 
> I picked up the planing sled and a Rockler T-bolt kit with precisely the idea of using it for multiple jigs. I specifically like their taper jig setup (but not the price)and figure the 48" bars that come with the sled would certainly give you plenty of length!!
> 
> The sled, as it comes, is a natural for a large set of skiis.. if you want to be able to travers the bars and be able to plunge without discernable deflection. You're onto something great with that 80/20 stock, BJ...


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Jim
> 
> Thanks, now you must post some snapshots
> 
> ===


While you're at it Jim, can you post a couple of pics of this thing in action? I've been following the conversation between you and Bj and am thinking this may work a lot better than my skiis. I need to resurface about 18 solid panels from 16 to 22" wide. I believe it doable with skiis but a PIA non the less. I'm primarily interested in how easy lateral (left-right) movement is. Thanks


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## jigman (Oct 11, 2009)

Well you all gave me some great ideas for a jig. I will make one. The top has to much wax and clogs a belt sander. Belt sander did prett well but it pull ou to much of the wood. I think some of the wood has gotten to soft to use it.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Bob & John,

I'll take some pics this weekend. I was going to wait and photo shoot the whole process when I make the hardwood top but I'll get you some shots. I've attached the instructions for it which shows it pretty clearly. 

The sled consists of two assenblies. The first assembly is the router plate with two ~8" pieces of ~4"W material attached as shown in picture 2. Two rollers and a handle are attached on each side as shown in picture 3.

The second assembly consists of two each of picture 4 which squeeze the side of the material to hold the assembly in place (back and forth). There are two ~4"W x 48"L aluminum extrusions that reach across the material (a bit above) as shown on picture 7.

Picture 6 shows this 4-piece assembly with the router plate assembly resting upside down on top of it. Picture 7 shows it in its functional place.

For planing the instructions offer 3 options for adjusting elevation. For my simple process I built two sets of runners as shown in picture 10 and just sized the piece shown as being 1-1/2x2-1/4" to work with the thickness of my stock.

As far as sliding the router back and forth, its a breeze. The 4' aluminum model I bought is designed to plane up to 39"W. My top was 36W and started out a rough 3-1/4" thick. It comes with adjustable "stops" to limit the router plate assembly motion as desired.

Picture 13 shows it in motion. It really works as good as advertised. 

I'll take some better pics this weekend.

Jim


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> Bob & John,
> 
> I'll take some pics this weekend. I was going to wait and photo shoot the whole process when I make the hardwood top but I'll get you some shots. I've attached the instructions for it which shows it pretty clearly.
> 
> ...


Hi Jim - Appreciate that. I watched the U-tube video a couple of more times and I think I understand it. Went ahead and ordered the 27" version and the bit. Bit looks to be carbide tipped. Looks to me like some trued up 2x4 and 1x4 stock will suffice for the "customer supplied" components. Correct me if I'm wrong there.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Late.. but hopefully better late than sorry, here's some pictures of the planing sled that should make it easier to visualize.

Let's see.. Imagea024 is the planing sled frame assembled and upside down, 25 is face up. Number 27 shows the router in the sliding carriage, 29 with the carriage on the frame. 

Image 30 shows the frame resting on my Ell-shaped support brackets. The bench, being made of one-time kiln-dried construction fir had cupped significantly after assembly and the first round of flattening so I decided to take a 1/4" off the highest spot. To get there I ripped a bit off the top of my Ell-bracket (31). Image 32 is after a bit of cutting and shows the cut edge. Number 33 aqnd 35 shows the ton of chips developed (that's how they naturally piled up, more were on the floor and spread around the shop). Number 37 shows the top, nearly complete, but also sshows the depth of cut taken. 

The last one, 41, is unfortunately washed out but otherwise shows the 2-1/2"x(by now) 30"x7' bench upside down with the routing I had to do to inset the Woodcraft pattern makers vise into the bottom. I still need to add the 3" x 5-1/4" skirt on the side. Since the extra 3" will wrap around the wise, that's the reason I'm doing this "test-build" bench. Once this is completed, a chain-drive vise will go on the opposite side of the bench and a twin-screw tail on the far end.

Hey BJ.. I confirmed that 1-3/8" planing bit was carbide. I'm sure the cutter could use a sharpening but hey, it removed 3 full bench passes totalling 3/4" of stock removal. That or spin on a new cutter...

Also BJ, I used one of those 1/2"Dx3" cutter length router bits I got from George with a clamped-on fence to true-up the end of the bench and it worked great!

Harry, while I used the Craftsman in the planer I used the Makita 3612 I picked up on CL for the above cut and for hogging out the waste for the vise. I see why you're so sold on Makitas. The heavy screw (with quick-release nut) plunge depth stop makes the ones I'd used previous seem mighty puny. :sold:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

Very nice job,Thanks for the feed back and the snapshots, I have a question for you why didn't you turn the Craftsman sideways and hook the vac.port, it looks like once the knobs are off the router it would fit in just right..and just use the knobs on the rail side..

Also did you get your peg hole in place ?

Also you may want to check out the links below.
http://www.routerforums.com/introductions/12239-work-bench.html
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/11951-project-made-me-want-router-table.html
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/11687-few-more-raised-panels-doors-drawer.html
http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...3-ak-router-table-stand-progress-100_2073.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/10323-workbench.html

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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Jim - thanks for the photo shoot, helps a lot. I did order the 27" version, as I don't envision doing anything much larger, and it showed up Monday. Haven't quite got it together as it showed up with some missing/wrong hardware. Called them and that's on it's way.
Did get it together enough to figure out the instructions are way over complicated. Not having used it yet, I'm wondering just how critical that 1 to 1-1/8" dimension is that they seem to stress in the directions? I realize the workpiece needs to be above the guide rails but seems to me that planned depth of cut plus a safety margin should be good to go. 
I'm setting it up for the Freud 1700 fixed base so I can use the dust collection. To do that I needed to pull the handles off the base and to use the spindle lock I can only use 3 clamps. I am also not crazy about it's ability to tip off the "L" supports when doing smaller stuff. I'm thinking here about making a outrigger to help support the outside end (quick and dirty method) or a camboard that will stand about 2-3/4" high to resolve both the elevation and tip issues. 

Once again - thanks for the input


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Hi BJ..

Honestly I hadn't thought of using a vacuum although if I had I'd have had to dump it numerous times. Cleaning up after my first round of planing I completely filled a just-emptied bag for my Jet DC-1100B DC.

As for your links to Dave's bench posts, they're part of what inspired me to build a bench. I really want to make with a maple top but decided to take it one step at a time and first build one out of (kiln dried) construction lumber. 

I aspire to build one like his but figured I'd come a lot closer if I built another one first, hopefully finding easier / safer / more accurate ways to build the second one.

Peg hole? Do you mean dog holes? I'll add those but figured I'd get my twin-screw end vise and LV chain drive other face vise mounted first. I'm figuring to generally use those with the dogs since they'll both have wooden jaws.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Hi John,

I don't know about those specific dimensions since I used a different option for my planing but the thickness range (whatever it is) is important. 

If you look at picture #9, the end view, you will see the long rails aimed away from you. The height must be such that those do not drag on the top of the planing surface.

In the picture foreground you will see the black brackets between those rails and the cross-rail that clamps to the board being cut. If you extend your bit too far you will cut into the cross-rail. I haven't measured the thickness of the black bracket but I'd say its about3/8" thickness. This limits the range of cutting depth with one mounting of your steel Ell-brackets using that Option for wood holding. This would work good if you had a small or a number of pieces to do.

In my case I had one large 3'x7' benchtop (and no flat working area big enough to work on other than the ground (not good for the knees) so I built a torsion box a laid it across a pair of sawhorses and worked from there. I used 1x4's on edge, sandwiched between two 3/8" thick pieces of 4'x8' plywood. I then placed the benchtop on the torsion box. I made my Ells out of some of the 1x4's, ripping the correct "height" on my table saw. When I flopped the top and wanted a lower height I just re-ripped the vertical leg of the Ell about 1/4" and repeated my planing effort.

To keep the wooden ells from moving I squeezed them against the benchtop and tacked them in place with a couple of wood screws. If I was going to make another benchtop I'd need to replace the two vertical legs of the Ell but accepted that a consumable. I figure I could buy a lot of 1x4's for the price of a wide planer.. and its less lokely to draw questions from my bride. <g>

I understand your tipping concern. Assuming you don't want to screw into your work surface, perhaps you could clamp the ells to your work surface or clamo them to the workpiece. In my case I was able to tack my ells 10' ells down in only two places, one at each end of the 8' torsion box. As an alternative you could make the workpiece longer than necessary and screw through the ell into the waste at the ends of the workpiece.

Just some thoughts..


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Jim - thanks for the input. The job I am setting up for is 15 solid wood, 3/4" thick doors, width 15-22". I'm thinking of a camboard, 3/4 ply, about 24 x 24. Run dados along the inside of the wooden support Ell's to support the cam board at the right height to put the 3/4 workpiece in the planning window. I think that would spread the Ell's out far enough apart to effectively eliminate tipping issues. Locking the Ell's and camboard together with bar clamps should give me a single unit that could be fastened to the bench with only a couple of C-clamps. Kind of an option B-. Sound like a plan?
Will be a week or so before i'm ready for that phase anyway so thing could, and in all likelyhood will.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

You could do that John.. but if I'm following you, you might want to consider just resting the cross-rail on your benchtop...

The cross-rail is 3/4" thick and the bracket is about ?3/8"? thick. So if you rest the cross-rail on a very flat benchtop, what is required is for the door top elevation to be a little greater 3/4" above the benchtop (so the bit doesn't hit the cross-rail) and a little less than the 3/4" + ?3/8"? elevation so the door doesn't press against the long-rails.

Cut 2 or 3 pieces 0f 1/8" hardboard about 14" wide and long enough to support the longest doors. These could be used as shims to lift the door up enough to get it within the cutting range of the sled. If the door wanted to slide a little "weak" double-stick tape could hold it in place long enough for the cut. The using the knobs that connect the cross-rails to the long rails, you can clamp the door in between.

Hmm.. this technique should also work to "plane" solid wood drawer bottoms too large for the planer, to thin thicknesses. I'm liking the flexibility of this metal jig material more and more all the time!!


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## jigman (Oct 11, 2009)

Now that is some jib to plane the top with. Really did a great job. Now that is what I will have to do to get my cutting board right. I will work on my own design and see what happens. Thanks


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