# Is there one bit or two



## Sawdust68 (Aug 12, 2018)

Hello, I'm a new comer to your forum with a few questions. I have been trying to figure out if the lath on the top of a wall clock I am putting with is made with one bit or two. I have several folks I know that do woodworking and no one has given me an answer. My router will only handle 1/4" shaft bits.

I found your forum by accident, but I think I'm glad I did. Thank you for any help you provide.

Wayne


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

welcome to the forums Wayne...
the answer is both... plus one..

1 single cove bit done in 2 cuts...
the small cove is cut 1st..
the piece is flipped end for end and rotated on it's long axis 90° for the 2nd cut...
and then finished w/ the plus one bit...

or a single profiled bit was used.. and there are many...
all ya gotta do is find it...
plus another one of course..

or 2 bits.. plus one
1 each cove bit and one each core box bit or ball end bit...

the plus one is a round over bit for the light edge radius...

here.. look this PDF over and you'll get the idea......

.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

now you might as well jump in and take on the whole set of PDF's...
*Just go to this link*.....

.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Some furniture manufacturers would have the bit made for them if they were doing a production run using that molding but it can easily be done in two passes. It's hard to tell if both curves are the same radius. If they are you only need one bit. If they are different then you need two. Those profiles are some of the cheapest bits you can buy. If you should get lucky and find a bit that will do both curves at once it won't be cheap. It would be considered an architectural molding bit and likely run you $100 plus.

There are two types of profiles that will make those curves. One is cove bits which usually are guided by an integral bearing. The other is round nose bits which you need an edge guide for or to use them in a router table with fence.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

and don't forget the round over...
size the radii from the middle of the molding and not the end.. 
fuzzies are your option..

.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I usually sand or scrape round overs that small. Usually that's faster that getting a bit set up and normally you have to sand a little after anyway.


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## Sawdust68 (Aug 12, 2018)

Thank you gentlemen for getting back to me. I must admit that Stick you had me a bit confused with the 2 plus one, but I believe I understand. Sorry the pictures were a bit sideways. On my computer they were ok. And I think I'll leave the fuzzies off the final product. Take care and be careful. Wayne


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Wayne...
in the 3rd picture I'd be WTB that a *small crown molding...*

.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

*Here are some of the bits* used to make those profiles...


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## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Wayne.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Welcome to the forum Wayne and now you see why there are so many of us. There's a ton of knowledge here.

-Steve


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## marecat3 (Nov 30, 2010)

welcome to the forum


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Looks like same radius so I would think 1 cove bit will do both...if the smaller cove is larger radius, use larger cove bit...cove or roundover depending on desired radius...

flat edge up against the fence...cut the big cove first...two-three passes, increasing height of bit...fingerboards for safety...
then...lower the bit and move fence away from the bit the desired amount for small part of profile...

fingies away from the whirly thing...


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## Sawdust68 (Aug 12, 2018)

Thank you Stick. I'll keep looking and working on it. And thanks Larry for the welcome. Oh while I'm here, how reliable are MLCS bits. Picked up a box of cove bits today.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Sawdust68 said:


> 1... Thank you Stick.
> 2... I'll keep looking and working on it.
> 3... Oh while I'm here, how reliable are MLCS bits.
> 4... Picked up a box of cove bits today.


1... yur welcome...
2... good..
3... *MCLS Router Bits*.. and you need to use the search function more..
https://www.routerforums.com/1947363-post3.html
https://www.routerforums.com/router-bits-types-usage/129961-bits-deep-rabbit-hole.html
https://www.routerforums.com/router-bits-types-usage/119529-best-router-bits.html
4... send them back...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Sawdust68 said:


> Thank you Stick. I'll keep looking and working on it. And thanks Larry for the welcome. Oh while I'm here, how reliable are MLCS bits. Picked up a box of cove bits today.


Fine Woodworking did a bit test about 11 years ago and MCLS bits came out fair to poor. Whiteside won. Lee Valley, Infinity, as well as Rockler did very well at the time. However, none of those 3 have the variety of companies like Whiteside, Freud, CMT, or Amana.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Fine Woodworking did a bit test about 11 years ago and MCLS bits came out fair to poor. Whiteside won. Lee Valley, Infinity, as well as Rockler did very well at the time. However, none of those 3 have the variety of companies like Whiteside, Freud, CMT, or Amana.


whiteside beat conventional Freud out of the box but Freud went the distance as in LF over whiteside... I believe this is because WS uses ''softer'' carbide which can be sharpened sharper but wears easier...
Freud's Quadra cut bits are a whole new realm of excellence...
CMT bits are very good but come up way short come CS time... 
LV... very good bits.. good value...
Amana made in Israel are very good bits too... but Amana bits made in China are straight up junk...
Israel made = months of use... China made = hours if yur lucky... both are the same price too...


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