# Fence extension



## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

I wanted to build a tablesaw fence extension, and sacrificial fence for dado on the end of boards. 

I got some 3/4 birch plywood and cut 4" srips, 42". Going to drill and put in bolts to slide on T slots. Figure could use this one another on router table too.

I was surprised how springy they are. They are not sitting flat. It did get left out in my truck supported on tailgate for couple hours.

Is this a bad choice in wood? Did I wreck it leaving it out? I glued and screwed to strips together. Seems ok, one was flat.

Was this just a bad idea? In the past I used oak boards, but I thought they could warp over time.


Some of this is for dadoing ends of boards, some is just tryng to get better cuts with a longer fence. Was supposed to be 48" But I cut some other stuff out of the sheet. So this was a cut from length, not end. 


Thanks


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Sorry if this doesn't help , but this is what I did .

I used that particular board that has a melamine finish , and a piece of MDF in the middle for a sacrificial fence and it worked well . I'm a big fan of Baltic birch , but not sure how well it would work for a long fence . To flimsy imo . 
I bought those aluminum T tracks as well and use it to hold feather boards for doing dado's 

I used a couple pieces of MDF to provide a guide on the drill press , as you want those holes placed accurately for those T slots 


Here's a better pic of what the guide looks like on the drill press . Basically a piece for of MDF glued and air nailed to a bigger piece providing a way to get accurate holes in the material 


Here I dadoed out slots for the aluminum T slot .


Originally I was going to use Rockler clamps to secure the sacrificial fence to mine , but I have a General saw with an Excalibur fence , which worked out well as there's a lever to remove the face of the fence . So I built a runway with metal strips to slide the sacrificial fence into position , just like the original face . 



It's very sturdy , but I do clamp the fence down to the back of the table on occasion , as it raises in the air a bit if you push the material threw to fast


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Great post Rick. Thanks. :smile:


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## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

I really like the featherboard. I struggle with good cuts. 

Is there a difference in plywoods? Was birch the wrong choice, or plywood in general? I though 3/4 would have been good.


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## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

Where do order t-slot from? Rockler?


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

Zerk said:


> Where do order t-slot from? Rockler?


Thats the best place imho. They pack them in round plastic tubes and then in a cardboard box. I was impressed.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Zerk said:


> Where do order t-slot from? Rockler?


The best pricing I could find online was Peachtree They also package well and have good customer service. They also have large assortment of products
T-Track & Accessories


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Check these people out, their prices are about as low as I've seen

Aluminum T-Track

Of course, they don't have a pretty color, but $8.54 for a 48" length is good. Plus. I like the groove for the screw head rather than a countersink.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Lumber or panel boards will all warp, especially with changes in humidity. The solution to prevent that is to form either T sections, U sections, or box sections out of them. Truss floor joists are a good example. The spine of the truss is only a 9" + wide piece of 7/16" OSB with 2 end caps that prevent it from twisting. Basically they turn it into an I-beam.


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## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

TJIs have lumber top and bottom. They install quicker, longer spans, and are vonsistent. The top and bottom are number too, not just the end caps. The problem is people cut the bottom board, which ruins the truss. You can only pop out the plugs. 

Also heard fireman don't like them, the house is a loss pretty quick.

Not sure what it has to do with this. Plywood isn't strong enough alone and lumber isn't stable. Would you be able to tell on 4' piece.


Sounds like I need to add some metal.


Yesterday went to my first Rocker store. Lots of cool gaddgets. They dint have anything over 40". Maybe it doesn't help over 40". I am trying to make up for lack of skills. Trying to get my cuts straighter.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Zerk , I'm not exactly sure what your needing a longer fence for, and I now cut sheet goods with a track saw . I had terrible luck cutting large sheets with my table saw , and it's a fairly big saw. If I would have made an infeed table I think I would have had better luck. Or had a second body there to help out . 
My sacrificial fence system works great when I use my dado blade , and I think your on the right track adding one to your setup , but for cutting down sheet goods I'm a track saw fan now .


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## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

I am hoping to make up for my lack of skill with a longer fence


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

My auxiliary fence is a simple thing.
The clamps came from Rockler.

Since these pics were taken, I have added a featherboard.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The point I was making Zerk is that a 7/16" thick strip of OSB is strong enough to make a floor out of once it is placed on edge and held securely that way. Your flexible strips will stop bending if you join them together so that one or some are at 90* angles to others. It is not a materials problem, it is an engineering problem that you have.


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## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

Was the birch a plywood choice of plywood, or was plywood a bad choice in general?


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## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

I got the idea from a tip where a guy used aluminum 4' level. I wanted something where clamps were not in the way.

Might be cheaper to just mod or drill a level. Though not a lot of meat on the some.


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## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> The point I was making Zerk is that a 7/16" thick strip of OSB is strong enough to make a floor out of once it is placed on edge and held securely that way. Your flexible strips will stop bending if you join them together so that one or some are at 90* angles to others. It is not a materials problem, it is an engineering problem that you have.


Those joists have wood strips running the length of them. It is not just the OSB holding up the floor.

What prevents a hardwood strip from bending if use it as edging? In a house it is nailed to sheeting and sill plate.


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## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

I decided against the Rockler tracks.

Both Kreg and Ridgid use a 1/4" bolt had rather then the T-bolt they use that doesn't match my other tracks. Plus I find it a bit of a screw you, to have to buy their t bolts, which I did before I knew this, when other companies use common bolt heads. 

If I find the bolt heads lose, I will grind down Rockler t-bolts, defeating the purpose of buying machined tracks.

I wanted a 48" track. A few other companies make them. 

Everyone else is cheaper. I will have to find out how the quality compares. I ordered a couple types of Woodpecker tracks, who are also cheaper then Kreg, which is cheaper then Rockler.


Learning about these tracks and clamps that slide into them, has me wanted to make a workbench with slots built into them. I spend more time building benches and working on my shop, then actually building anything. I think I actually like that more.


Will let you know how the woodpecker seems. Not ruling out a Rockler someday, if I find a clamp I want that isn't made by the other guys.
I ordered combo, but probably should have ordered DP track. I really only need one slot, but wanted to stiffen up wood.

I also ordered a single slot t track.

http://www.woodpeck.com/wpttrack.html

http://www.woodpeck.com/combotrack.html

http://www.woodpeck.com/dptrack.html


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## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Zerk , I'm not exactly sure what your needing a longer fence for, and I now cut sheet goods with a track saw . I had terrible luck cutting large sheets with my table saw , and it's a fairly big saw. If I would have made an infeed table I think I would have had better luck. Or had a second body there to help out .
> My sacrificial fence system works great when I use my dado blade , and I think your on the right track adding one to your setup , but for cutting down sheet goods I'm a track saw fan now .


Maybe if you had a longer fence you wouldn't need a track saw.

But they are nice. Not sure I want to go that route. I do take two pieces of plywood, top one straight edge, and then then cut bottom with saw. Sorta like poor mans track system. I like how fast it is. Mark a line on each side, clamp board and cut. Don't have to subtract for width of saw. 

I also have ridged stands that I like. Should get more. I also built my work bench to line up with my table saw, so it is an outfeed table.


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## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

I picked up a hardwood shipping pallet that is two 2x4 double stacked, crossing 2x4s doubt stacked. 3 on top, crossing 3. Works good for supporting sheets. I cut up 3/4 sheet with 18v circ saw, no problem. Cut well because it is supported. But there are nails.

I going to glue, 4'2x4s double stacked in 3 rows. On top 8' 2x4s perpendicular. I may do this as work bench with legs, or I may just put it on saw horses, so I can stand up out of the way. I got a poll barn. Men should have big garages, not full of women's stuff.

Out in the country, I am not afraid to leave this outside either.

By gluing them rather then nailed like the pallets I have, I can run the saw blade into them. Plus it will be lighter by only have the bottom one board thick. I may use 2x6s to make it more stable.

The other cool thing about the grid of boars, is it gives you lots of places to clamp. Also I am only going to do 2 rows on bottom, so I can get in further if need be. Maybe bottom row at 1' and 3', with top rows every 2 foot, for 8' length.


Another user on here said he uses sheets of poly board to support the plywood. Though that stuff isn't cheap, but it is light.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Zerk said:


> Maybe if you had a longer fence you wouldn't need a track saw.
> 
> But they are nice. Not sure I want to go that route. I do take two pieces of plywood, top one straight edge, and then then cut bottom with saw. Sorta like poor mans track system. I like how fast it is. Mark a line on each side, clamp board and cut. Don't have to subtract for width of saw.
> 
> I also have ridged stands that I like. Should get more. I also built my work bench to line up with my table saw, so it is an outfeed table.


I doubt s longer fence would help , but possibly . I basically need an infeed table , as it's very cumbersome imo . 
The track saw is awesome , because you can also get a right angle cut in a sheet if it doesn't have one . Plus if you require angles , there great to . Each to his own of course


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## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

I got the idea for 4 foot fence from Family Handyman.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Zerk...Couldn't help note that you are wanting to use a longer fence to improve your cuts...didn't see what problem you are having that you think a longer fence will help...

Basically, once the piece goes past the front end of the blade it is cut...so longer on the outfeed shouldn't really help. Think of a short fence that is sometimes used to minimize kickback. If your problem is not being able to hold the piece straight going into the cut, try firming up your featherboard a bit yielding more pressure against/towards the fence. If you are cutting large pieces of wood, like a plywood panel, try using a circular saw and edge guide instead...much better and straighter cut and certainly safer, especially, thinner/bendy panels.

For "normal" size pieces, use a featherboard just in front of the cutting edge of the blade and hold the piece against the fence tighter. Practice with slow feed rate until you're more comfortable and "muscle memory" has developed. Check the height of the blade based on the thickness of the wood. I like using the gullet as a guide raising the blade to where the gullet is at the height of the piece. Some feel more comfortable raising the blade 1/4" above the piece...sweet spot will be up to you. I don't always use a featherboard pushing the piece down...depends on the size of the piece.

Your "pushstick" is key also...do a search in youtube for "pushstick" or "table saw kickback" or similar...always use a pushstick that allows you to keep the piece down and not the ones that have you push the piece from the back only...

Control your infeed...it will give you better results...

Good luck...be safe...


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## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

Good tips. But sometimes I do cut long pieces. Rip or rabbet 2xs. I do cut sheets down. But I still want to use fence on table saw, for repeatable cuts. 

Other then monet and time, it doesn't hurt.

I was only using feather boards clamped to table. I never thought of them until recently on the fence.

Not everything is small pieces.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

...gotcha...


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

I've been looking for photos of the table that my buddy built for his Unisaw; it was U-shaped so extended on right and left sides as well as the back, perfect for breaking down sheets of plywood (back in the day when we could still easily lift one up on the saw. A typical cutting schedule on the saw started with a 25" rip for making countertops or 23-1/4" when cutting base cabinet sides - the side and outfeed extensions had to be large enough to safely support the offcut without any input from the operator so he could concentrate on feeding the sheet into the saw and not having to worry about grabbing the offcut. From memory, the left side extension was about 3' wide so it easily supported the ~ 24" offcut, but also worked if you were cutting 34-1/2" crosscuts for cabinet ends - although that was normally a two-man job. I don't see where a longer fence past the blade helped much, the tricky part was always getting the sheet tight against the fence at the start of the cut and keeping it from walking out. Never tried something like this

https://www.finewoodworking.com/FWNPDFfree/tablesaw-fence-extension.pdf

but it looks as if it would help. I can't see a longer front to the fence helping much as the piece needed to be fed straight before it hit the blade, fence after the blade wouldn't seem to do too much, particularly since the back end of the part is still in contact and being guided by the fence.

Cutting rabbets, as has been pointed out, is certainly helped both by a feather board in front of the blade to keep the part tight to the fence while being cut as well as one on the fence and on top of the part to stop it from lifting up and giving an inconsistent depth of cut.


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