# box building basic's



## dribron (Jul 27, 2010)

Hey all. I was thinking of trying out this ex-pro jig to make a simple box. I started thinking that it would also be nice to rabbit the bottom so it will fit well. But then thought that if I did that wouldnt it mess up the end of the dovetails on the bottom?
So what is the best way to fit the bottom on a box with dovetail corners?


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Create dovetails, assemble the box, then use router to create rabbet for the bottom.

Alternately, you could rabbet the 4 sides before assembly. The sides that have pins on the bottom would need the rabeet to stop short of the endes (a blind rabbet???) The pieces with tails on the bottom could have a "thru rabbet", unless you're doing a blind dovetail, in which case the rabbet for the pieces with tails would also need to stop shy of the end of the board.


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## dribron (Jul 27, 2010)

How would I rout after assembly? Do you rout the inside edge? Sorry for the dumb questions... I'm quit new to this.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

Put in the dovetails, than clamp it up and cut the bottom so it just fits in the box , no need to do much more that glue it in place in the box..that way no end grains will show.

You can rabbit the top so it just drops in place, with a nice bead or nice little round over on the edges.

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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Do you have a router table? If so, use the proper sized bearing guided rabbeting bit and *MIND YOUR FEED DIRECTION*. 

If no table, you'll have to make an auxiliary base for the hand held. Make it wide enough to span the box when the bit is cutting. i.e. Box is 12"X 16", make the aux. base 26" long and as wide as your standard base. Or, easier but less stable is to clamp a 2X4 to one side at a time to give yourself a wider platform for an unmodified base. 

Either way, you'll end up with rounded corners. Either found your bottom's corners to match or chisel the corners of the box square.


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## dribron (Jul 27, 2010)

Thanks for the reply's... I got it now. Now I just need to figure out the ez-pro can't seem to get the thing linned up correct so the bit will cut. Maybe I just need to remove one of the two barrings.


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## Mikemorgan (Dec 7, 2009)

Lee Valley makes some great bits for slotting boxes without having the slots show on the outside.
//www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=47818&cat=1,46168,46176&ap=1


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## CharlieCharlie (Jul 21, 2010)

How'd you do with the ez pro? I bought one and after an hour my shop lost its "G" rating.


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## dribron (Jul 27, 2010)

I havn't really got it to work out for me.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

dribron said:


> Hey all. I was thinking of trying out this ex-pro jig to make a simple box. I started thinking that it would also be nice to rabbit the bottom so it will fit well. But then thought that if I did that wouldnt it mess up the end of the dovetails on the bottom?
> So what is the best way to fit the bottom on a box with dovetail corners?


here is what i do i will post a couple pic. I have made a couple hundred box's . Don't know what kind of bottom . But this is the easest to use. The bigger box's are put on from the bottom with screw's . This is easy to do . Make the box part first. than make the bottom and top. Now put the box part on the bottom. Use blue painters tape . Take a tab and put it in all corners. Mark with pincel so that you have the thickness of the wood. and with the mark's you will see where to drill. You will have 2 marks on the frount. And 1 mark on the back . Now make these near the corners. I use pin nail's in the thinner box's. But screw's in the 15/16" bottom. These are counter sinked when i use the tappered bit. Now after that i use the felt button's to cover the screw's . This also pervent's scratches on where you set it. I have been doing this for a few yr's now But have had 4 wood shop's so far. This is my last one . Good luck on your box's


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## RoyBullets (May 26, 2008)

I was just going through this as well but with a different jig. In my practice boxes I used some 3/8" plywood and rabbeted just around the bottom like many mentioned here. I just ran the pieces on the router table before assembly.

The fit was pretty good but it was a little tricky to stop and start the cut on what would be a front piece on half blind dovetails. The pin side you can go all the way through. Using a stop block on either side worked well but you will have to chisel out the end where the bit stops because it is round (at least I did).

Still looking for some better ways to attach the bottom since the rabbet for me created a lot of tear out but these are just practice pieces for use around the shop.

Screws is always an option and I may do some like a drawer bottom with a dado but only on boxes big enough that I will not loose too much inside space.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

dribron said:


> Hey all. I was thinking of trying out this ex-pro jig to make a simple box. I started thinking that it would also be nice to rabbit the bottom so it will fit well. But then thought that if I did that wouldnt it mess up the end of the dovetails on the bottom?
> So what is the best way to fit the bottom on a box with dovetail corners?


These shots show my two main ways of making a bottom, the type of corner joints makes no difference. The first way is to glue a bottom to the carcass, bearing in mind that modern adhesives will ensure that the wood will break before the joint. My second method is to make the bottom a good fit inside the carcass and glue it flush with the sides. On odd occasions I have made the bottom such that when sat on the carcass it sits about half way on all sides, I've then routed a rabbet around the bottom and a groove on all sides so that the bottom is assembled into the sides before glue-up.


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## sourdough (Jan 31, 2010)

*Del's boxes*



del schisler said:


> here is what i do i will post a couple pic. I have made a couple hundred box's . Don't know what kind of bottom . But this is the easest to use. The bigger box's are put on from the bottom with screw's . This is easy to do . Make the box part first. than make the bottom and top. Now put the box part on the bottom. Use blue painters tape . Take a tab and put it in all corners. Mark with pincel so that you have the thickness of the wood. and with the mark's you will see where to drill. You will have 2 marks on the frount. And 1 mark on the back . Now make these near the corners. I use pin nail's in the thinner box's. But screw's in the 15/16" bottom. These are counter sinked when i use the tappered bit. Now after that i use the felt button's to cover the screw's . This also pervent's scratches on where you set it. I have been doing this for a few yr's now But have had 4 wood shop's so far. This is my last one . Good luck on your box's


I am TOTALLY knocked out by your pile of boxes!! Great work. It would take me a couple months to make ONE of them. Thanks for showing us how it CAN be done.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Loooooking goood,,,I like the transformers for a hold down device, I use 12" diam.magnets out of big speakers plus they hold my tools for me at the same time  plus for welding jobs, I bet John wish he had some for his welding CNC job as of late.

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harrysin said:


> These shots show my two main ways of making a bottom, the type of corner joints makes no difference. The first way is to glue a bottom to the carcass, bearing in mind that modern adhesives will ensure that the wood will break before the joint. My second method is to make the bottom a good fit inside the carcass and glue it flush with the sides. On odd occasions I have made the bottom such that when sat on the carcass it sits about half way on all sides, I've then routed a rabbet around the bottom and a groove on all sides so that the bottom is assembled into the sides before glue-up.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Glad this post has been raised as I also would like to ask a question. I have the Oakpark Jig and still cant get the off set block right.Do I rout both sides together and then the two ends together to save time/set up?....I have had a few experiments at this on scrap but was not happy with the result. The fingers were either too tight or too loose too long and too short.I get the bit about the distance from the fence etc.I am using key way steel for measurements so you would think that was not the problem....I wonder if its an operator problem?.....Any other tips would be appreciated.......Regards...AL


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Al

Check out the video below it may help but it sounds like operator problem 
Spacer Fence - Oak-Park.com

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Or you can pickup the fixture below for your Triton. 

Triton FJA300 Finger Jointer 330080 

YouTube - Triton FJA300 Finger Jointer 330080

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Al Robins said:


> Glad this post has been raised as I also would like to ask a question. I have the Oakpark Jig and still cant get the off set block right.Do I rout both sides together and then the two ends together to save time/set up?....I have had a few experiments at this on scrap but was not happy with the result. The fingers were either too tight or too loose too long and too short.I get the bit about the distance from the fence etc.I am using key way steel for measurements so you would think that was not the problem....I wonder if its an operator problem?.....Any other tips would be appreciated.......Regards...AL


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Al when I started using the OP jig I did all the sides individually just till I got the hang of it. Getting the set up right is the biggest trick. Here's a few things I found in my experiments.
Instead of the offset block I use the first piece I made to offset the second piece. 
I know in some of his videos Bob runs the piece over the jig and the bit without a backer board or push block. When starting out a square push block or backer board is a necessity. I made BJ's push block and it works perfect. The first one I made wasn't square and it threw my joints off. It MUST be square to the table.
Don't use plywood to practice or set up with. It tears out too easily and the fit always seems off. Scrap solid pine worked best for me. (It _*must*_ be the same thickness as your working pieces.)
Make sure your edges of your work piece are square! If they aren't your slots will be skewed to one side.
When setting your piece over the jig guide finger, makes sure there is no saw dust or debris under the wood. This will make your joints shorter. 
Don't back the wood over the router bit after you have cut the slot. If necessary run it forward over the bit again to clean it up.
Use a good solid carbide spiral bit. A straight bit will work but the spiral bit is best for box joints.


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## RoyBullets (May 26, 2008)

harrysin said:


> These shots show my two main ways of making a bottom, the type of corner joints makes no difference. The first way is to glue a bottom to the carcass, bearing in mind that modern adhesives will ensure that the wood will break before the joint. My second method is to make the bottom a good fit inside the carcass and glue it flush with the sides. On odd occasions I have made the bottom such that when sat on the carcass it sits about half way on all sides, I've then routed a rabbet around the bottom and a groove on all sides so that the bottom is assembled into the sides before glue-up.


Harry,
Awesome work. Thanks for sharing and giving some great ideas! I am will give the glue a try.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

BJ and Deb....Thanks for the information....For some time I have conveniently avoided this problem,as I wasnt sure of the operation, but now is crunch time to get the gray matter in top gear and have a go.....Thanks again.....AL


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

RoyBullets said:


> Harry,
> Awesome work. Thanks for sharing and giving some great ideas! I am will give the glue a try.


You really are welcome Roy. As a matter of interest, today was a public holiday here in Western Australia to celebrate the Queens birthday so any Americans who feel the urge can stand now and give a gentle bow, just as I know you would all like me to do when your President declares a holiday to celebrate his birthday!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Al Robins said:


> Glad this post has been raised as I also would like to ask a question. I have the Oakpark Jig and still cant get the off set block right.Do I rout both sides together and then the two ends together to save time/set up?....I have had a few experiments at this on scrap but was not happy with the result. The fingers were either too tight or too loose too long and too short.I get the bit about the distance from the fence etc.I am using key way steel for measurements so you would think that was not the problem....I wonder if its an operator problem?.....Any other tips would be appreciated.......Regards...AL


Here is a link Al to when I first tested the Oakpark spacer fence.

Router Forums - View Single Post - Harry tests the Oak Park jig


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Another great tutorial Harry....saved me sending you an email.lol....Tomorrows the big day for the box joints.....I will post the results....Regards....AL


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## icycool (Nov 11, 2010)

Thank you, the information provided is helpful to me also


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