# My New Router Circle Jig V 2.0



## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

Recently, I just completed my new router fence version 2.0 (Refer to "My New Router Fence V 2.0" in the Table Mounted Section) and turned my attention to designing a new router table. I realized in short order that I will need to cut precision circle holes and dados to accomplish the design features I want in my new router table. 

Viola'... my new router jig for cutting circle holes from 1.5-inches to 6-feet in diameter - yes, that's right 6-feet in diameter! My new jig has a 3-foot radius reach. Not that I would ever cut a 6-foot diameter hole but those large arcing arches will be a snap now.

The last pic is the jig's maiden cut... 4-inches in diameter according to the micrometer. I kept the platform wide to rest my coffee cup on during cuts.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Circle jigs are always handy around the shop....

Does you sliding arm have a beveled edge? How do you set the distance from the bit to the 1/4" post?


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## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

Thanks James for the interest.

No bevel on the sliding arm, just a right angle cut with a matching dado on the under side of the jig base. I routed a "T" slot in the top of the sliding arm and inserted a "T" Bolt that is used as a means to hold tight the dimension from the bit to the pivot pin. If you look at the third pic above, you'll see the threaded end of the "T" bolt protruding through the jig base. For the time being, I put a standard 1/4-20 nut with washers to secure the "T" bolt, but I will retro-fit it with a five star knob after my next visit to Rockler. I used the circle jig today to cut a circular plexi-glass router table base plate and corresponding circular dado. The jig performed quite nicely and made short work of the match up work. I'll post pics of the finished router table top once I complete that task.


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## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

*Circle Jig Performance*

Lovin' my new circle jig!

It made short and precise work out of cutting the plexiglass ring (router base plate) and corresponding circular dado in the router table top. The new router base plate fit like a glove in the circular dado.


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Hi, Keith.

Can you show to us how does your circle jig work?

Thank you in advance.


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## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

*My New Circle Jig V 2.0*

Alexis:

Okay, probably the best way to show you how this circle jig works is through a real life example. My mission was to cut an access hole in a portable table top so that I could attach my new router table top and fence.

Here are the steps, you can follow along with the enclosed photos:
1) Locate the general site of your target access hole;
2) Measure the radius of the desired hole using a compass;
3) Attach the router to the circle jig;
4) Use the compass to profile the distance between the pivot stud (on the circle jig) and the outside diameter of the router bit;
5) Tighten the "T" bolt on the circle jig to secure the adjustment bar that secures distance between the pivot stud and router bit;
6) Verify the location of the desired access hole in relation to the new router table top;
7) Use the compass to superimpose the desired access hole dimension on the target table top;
8) Drill a pilot hole on the table top to accept the pivot stud on the circle jig;
9) Insert the pivot stud in the pilot hole with the router in operation;
10) Rotate the circle jig counterclockwise with the router in operation; and
11) Continue the counterclockwise rotation until the cut is complete.

Viola'... the new access hole allows the router, new router table and fence to fit exactly as intended.


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## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

*My New Circle Jig V 2.0*

Here are the other photos to follow along


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## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

*My New Circle Jig V 2.0*

The rest of the photos


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Thanks Keith,

Those pictures gave a better answer to my earlier question. I can see retaining bolt is held in the movable arm in a T-slot, so no bevel required...


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

that is a great jig, and it looks like it can do very small circles just as well as very large ones. thanks for sharing it!

is that a 3/4" thick piece with a 1/2" piece for the slider?


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## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

Yes, Chris... you are accurate about the dimensions. Initially, I was somewhat skeptical about the 1/4" difference along the adjustment bar, but as it turns out, the poplar performs like a champ.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Looks good Keith. I want to make some small hubs for whirligig propellors. The set-ups that I've seen made me worry about turning the router in a tight circle. Looking at your pictures it seems that you could rotate the jig around the pin quite easily. Rather than rotating the router.

Any tips for keeping the center part rather than the outer part? The hole for the pin is fine - I need a hole there.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just one more wAy,with a hole saw

Router Forums - View Single Post - Whirligigs

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TenGees said:


> Looks good Keith. I want to make some small hubs for whirligig propellors. The set-ups that I've seen made me worry about turning the router in a tight circle. Looking at your pictures it seems that you could rotate the jig around the pin quite easily. Rather than rotating the router.
> 
> Any tips for keeping the center part rather than the outer part? The hole for the pin is fine - I need a hole there.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Thanks Bob. Is that a dado that your using to cut the slots? I made a simple jig to attach to my miter gauge on my table saw. I had to make 2 passes in order to get the slot width that I wanted for the blades. Unfortunately the slots weren't identical because of that. I have a "wobbler" type dado, I'll have to try that.

I wanted to make a router jig to cut the pucks but perhaps a hole saw is the better way to go. The ones that I've attempted were cut on a scrollsaw and chucked up in the drill press for sanding. A big job for what it is.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Paul

Your Welcome,,I made a jig to cut the hubs out with a router but it's not a easy way to do it ,it's best to start with a square block of wood and put the slots in 1st.then use a hole saw after the slots are in place I also made a jig to do the sanding on a belt sander..quick and easy one to make..and I use it to make knobs ,you can see many pictures of it in my uploads...


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TenGees said:


> Thanks Bob. Is that a dado that your using to cut the slots? I made a simple jig to attach to my miter gauge on my table saw. I had to make 2 passes in order to get the slot width that I wanted for the blades. Unfortunately the slots weren't identical because of that. I have a "wobbler" type dado, I'll have to try that.
> 
> I wanted to make a router jig to cut the pucks but perhaps a hole saw is the better way to go. The ones that I've attempted were cut on a scrollsaw and chucked up in the drill press for sanding. A big job for what it is.


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## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

Paul - I had another project just recently where I needed a whole slew (technical woodworking term) of wood circular discs of 1.5" thick varying in diameter from 1.5" to 8". Once I got an MDF sheet set up for mass production with pivot holes drilled, the circle jig laid scrap in all five gears. Made swiss cheese of the MDF sheet in no time. The cuts are clean, crisp and true as long as the bit is sharp.

On a safety note, I tried something different. I just recently combined a full face shield with a dust mask and I really liked the less-bulky feel to the protection. Prior, I was using a half-face respirator with dust cartridges and safety glasses. I'm sold on the new PPE combo!


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

I'm going to make a circle jig because I want to make a round base plate for my Colt. Once that's done I'll try it on making the wooden hubs. I'd like to be able to have the option of more sizes than what my hole saw collection offers.

Keith, I see that you've drilled holes inside of the circle you're cutting. if I was saving the inside, I assume that I should drill those to the outside???

Bob, I'd like to try other numbers of blades, so I would likely be cutting the circle first. I definitely see your point though: for 4 blades you can easily arrange the cuts when the hub is still square. I drew a diagram to help me align the cuts on a round hub.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Paul

Sounds good post some pictures, I use the cir.jig below,,,no big deal drawing them out the hard part is cutting them out true..and putting the slots in place,,3 is not to bad 4 is easy 5 is tricky 6 is not to bad any more than that it get real tricky.
By the way an band saw works well with a blade hub saw jig holder...

Jasper 400J Model 400 Router Circle Cutting Jig - Amazon.com

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## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

Paul -

Yes you are right....there are times when the centers or discs are the prize of the routing operation. In those cases, I substituted out the conventional 1/4"-dia. pivot pin for a modified version and I do not drill a pivot hole. I took a duplicate 1/4"-dia. pivot pin and ground a very fine point at its end that anchors the circle jig to the work piece. Much like the pin found on a geometric compass. Yes, it leaves a small divot on the work piece that either: 1) ends up underneath of the final disc where only one side, the sunny-side-up, matters; or 2) gets sanded away during the finishing phase. If your final need calls for a painted finish, you can fill the divot prior to the paint job.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

easy way with NO pivot pin ,center hole to fill in 
Trend Pivot Frame Jig - YouTube

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PorterCable690 said:


> Paul -
> 
> Yes you are right....there are times when the centers or discs are the prize of the routing operation. In those cases, I substituted out the conventional 1/4"-dia. pivot pin for a modified version and I do not drill a pivot hole. I took a duplicate 1/4"-dia. pivot pin and ground a very fine point at its end that anchors the circle jig to the work piece. Much like the pin found on a geometric compass. Yes, it leaves a small divot on the work piece that either: 1) ends up underneath of the final disc where only one side, the sunny-side-up, matters; or 2) gets sanded away during the finishing phase. If your final need calls for a painted finish, you can fill the divot prior to the paint job.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

*Got some pics*

I took a couple of pics. My first whirligig... Froggy.

An attempt at a 5 blade prop. The blades are just slices of 2 by 4.

The drawing I used to rotate the hub so I could locate the 5 slots for cutting. It can be used for up to 6 blades. I center the hub on the printout, mark the appropriate lines (eg 5) on the hub, align a mark to a vertical line on my jig and cut, rotate the hub to the next line and cut etc.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Thanks for the drawing, Paul.


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## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

Nice job. I have this same router !


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

TenGees said:


> I took a couple of pics. My first whirligig... Froggy.
> 
> An attempt at a 5 blade prop. The blades are just slices of 2 by 4.
> 
> The drawing I used to rotate the hub so I could locate the 5 slots for cutting. It can be used for up to 6 blades. I center the hub on the printout, mark the appropriate lines (eg 5) on the hub, align a mark to a vertical line on my jig and cut, rotate the hub to the next line and cut etc.


Good job. I can't see the side of the second mutli-wing. Assuming that that one has long enough in the back of the pivot to keep the propeller towards the wind(?)

You just inspired me to build the frog one. Question- Do you use bushings on the propellers?


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

James, you're welcome for the drawing. I hope you find it useful.

Mike, I used a sawed off stick pen barrel between the frog legs. Most people use brass. The frog doesn't necessarily point into the wind but he does rotate and the legs spin. I basically copied a photo I saw on the web of a very similar frog. I have both legs fixed to each other through the axle bolt and both props turn the same direction when blown from either side. It seems to work fine but I think some people make them opposite and independent. I'm not sure which way is better but I will try an independent - opposing setup on a future attempt.

On the 5 blade prop there is a flap inserted at the back which keeps the prop facing the wind. That prop hasn't got enough power to easily run that "sawing a log" whirligig. It only runs in a strong wind. That's why I'm trying to find a way to cut bigger hubs so I can make larger props.

I'm going to try a router circle jig but I don't have a plunge so that could be an issue.

That 5 blade propellor will find a job in a whirligig that doesn't need as much power. ;-)


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

paul, if you have a table router, i have a circle jig that you might find useful


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Chris, I'd like to see that jig. I've been looking at several plans and still haven't made a decision. I don't have a lift or a plunge router which I think would make things simpler.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

TenGees said:


> Chris, I'd like to see that jig. I've been looking at several plans and still haven't made a decision. I don't have a lift or a plunge router which I think would make things simpler.


here you go. it is just a t-track with a jam nut and a threaded rod and a hole at the end of the track for the bit to stick through


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Thanks Chris, that gave me an idea for an even simpler jig, that I may give a try. I could just clamp it to the table.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

TenGees said:


> Thanks Chris, that gave me an idea for an even simpler jig, that I may give a try. I could just clamp it to the table.


nice! there you go ... the power of the forum as a means to share ideas

i wanted to be able to clamp mine down on both sides every time, which is why i made the pin moveable


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Thank you, Keith.

I will save the pictures for future references.


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## 01stairguy (Apr 18, 2010)

thanks for sharing, very cool ideas. BTw what does the V 2.0stands for? iwould like to know, I am surehas some to do with you. thanks


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## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

Ron:

V 2.0 stands for "Version Number 2". In other words, my circle jig shown here in this thread is my second homemade circle jig which contains improvements (theorectically) over the first circle jig I made. There will probably be a V 3.0 one day from all the great ideas shared in this forum. Standby...


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## 01stairguy (Apr 18, 2010)

PorterCable690 said:


> Ron:
> 
> V 2.0 stands for "Version Number 2". In other words, my circle jig shown here in this thread is my second homemade circle jig which contains improvements (theorectically) over the first circle jig I made. There will probably be a V 3.0 one day from all the great ideas shared in this forum. Standby...


thanks for the info


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