# Selecting the router bit for a given application



## Chris_L (Sep 15, 2011)

I received a new beading bit last week and attempted to put an edge on some drawer fronts. I removed the larger bearing from the bit by pealing back just enough of the protective rubbery stuff to remove the big bearing and put on the smaller bearing. I did not see that there was a washer associated with the bigger bearing after I pulled off the rest of the protective cover. The washer was just a bit larger in diameter than the bearing and as such my edges have a slice going through the shoulder of the cut. Didn't notice since it was the first time that I used a router table and I simply assumed that the incredibly high force needed to push the wood across the bit was inherent with using a router table. The wood did some funny things which I assume was attributed to the washer catching certain grain anomalies. I now have to clear off a bit of the wood to redo the beading.

Here is what I have to trim off:

Worst spot...corner and the chip.










The slice is on all sides of each of my 3 drawer fronts. That brown line is the slice from the washer.










I need to remove the shoulder and a little bit more:










I have the following bits to use (MLCS 15 bit kit + some additional straight bits that came with my PC dovetail jig). 1/2" shank.










My dilemma is..which bit do I use for the job? The router will be mounted in a table. The straight bits come in various widths. My mounted router is a variable speed Bosch 1617 (I have the speed setting at 3.x for the beading) so I can adjust the speed if needed. I'm assuming that I can use the side of a straight bit but are the pilot bits and flush trim bits options? I plan on doing a straight cut to get rid of the shoulder issue and will go in a bit more to get rid of some of the nics that I created when the washer caused the wood to do funny things. I'll then redo the bead with the washer removed. Hopefully the process of pushing the wood across the bit will be a lot smoother this time. 

As always, I appreciate the help! I

Cheers, Chris


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Chris


This is what I would do, take it back to the table saw and trim off a 1/16" or so and then run it by the bit one more time..


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Chris_L said:


> I received a new beading bit last week and attempted to put an edge on some drawer fronts. I removed the larger bearing from the bit by pealing back just enough of the protective rubbery stuff to remove the big bearing and put on the smaller bearing. I did not see that there was a washer associated with the bigger bearing after I pulled off the rest of the protective cover. The washer was just a bit larger in diameter than the bearing and as such my edges have a slice going through the shoulder of the cut. Didn't notice since it was the first time that I used a router table and I simply assumed that the incredibly high force needed to push the wood across the bit was inherent with using a router table. The wood did some funny things which I assume was attributed to the washer catching certain grain anomalies. I now have to clear off a bit of the wood to redo the beading.
> 
> Here is what I have to trim off:
> 
> ...


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## Chris_L (Sep 15, 2011)

Thanks, Bob...I hadn't thought of that. I'm assuming that your method would keep the edges more true than using a router to create a straight edge?


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

Before you go back to the table saw, check how much gap will appear between the drawer fronts when you have them fitted. If you take 1/16" off each, then the gap between 2 drawers will increase by 1/8". I currently work in a cabinet making factory (until I can find work that I am trained for) and there is a limit to how much drawer fronts and doors can be trimmed before it becomes obvious there is a problem. Also, make sure you deal with the drawer fronts as a set, so that all are trimmed in exactly the same way.

Another option for you to consider is maybe using the same bit, but cut the bead a little deeper as if you were doing a multi-pass cut.

hope this helps,
Darryl


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## Chris_L (Sep 15, 2011)

Thanks Darryl. I had not yet made the cabinet for the drawers so I was able to take 1/16th off each edge without issue. The edge is much better without that washer! And, it was a helluva lot easier to edge too.


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