# Router acquired but not working



## BenNevis (Nov 8, 2012)

Got my router and became a newbie Nov 5 but since then been frustrated beyond imagination. Spindle would not lock so router bit not secure so no work done. The people at Freud very helpful but not offering much apart from send it back and they'll 'see what they can do'. Well, enough of that, am having the retailer (Home Depot) replace it and when they do...soon I hope.. I'll get on with things. Question in anticipation of my first encounter with a working machine is this. Am in the middle of constructing a king bed and I'd like the slats to be set in the rails as in a mortise? As the slats will be square (as in 90 degree corners) what is the best way to square a mortise in a pine 2x4? The slat is 1x4 (actually 3/4x3 1/2). This'll be a first and glorious attempt at achieving some router skills so really looking forward to getting started after getting the working Freud into my hands. Quite keen actually. Any help with my first assignment will be...well you know! William (and many thanks for the welcome earlier James)


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You have a few choices. You can square the corners with this type chisel Square Hole Punches - Lee Valley Tools , or, use a standard mortising chisel, or you can round the corners of your slats to fit using a chisel, scraper, and/or sandpaper. Since the slats aren't structural, the fit doesn't have to be perfect so I would go with the 3rd option.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I agree with Charles as far as rounding the tenon. 
I'm really more interested in your router problem, which Freud router do you have? Mine simply have a hole in the armature shaft that is engaged by a spring loaded pin. The pin is simply put in the engage position with a lever, or on one of my older models, automatically was activated by a cone when the router was in the fully down position. All components fully visible. If, for some reason, you couldn't get the router down far enough to align with the pin mechanism, you really have a problem with the base range of travel and that would need to go into the shop for correction.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Use a 1/2" or 3/8" upward spiral bit to cut the mortises then as stated round off the edges of the tenons. The tenons will go easier if you do them on a table saw (you can lay the stock flat on the table)or band saw. Cut the tenons after the mortise to make sure of getting a good fit. Leave a shoulder all around the tenon to hide the mortise.


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## bcfunburst (Jan 14, 2012)

You might also consider simply notching the side rails to set in the slats level with the tops of the side rails, giving you the same smooth surface for the box spring and mattress. Same strength and so much more simple all round. Newer bed sets require a center support as well. You can still make covers for the exposed side rail surface, perhaps. Just ideas for you. Hope your router problems turn out to be nothing serious.


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## Ray Y (Jan 10, 2012)

If you want to round over the edges of the slat to fit a round-ended mortise, wouldn't it be nice to use your router?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Ray Y said:


> If you want to round over the edges of the slat to fit a round-ended mortise, wouldn't it be nice to use your router?


Good point Ray. When he said mortice, I assumed he was going to tenon the ends of the slats. There isn't necessarily a need to. A round over bit or a bullnose would round them quickly.


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## mikelley (Aug 2, 2012)

"Or" make the mortise a little wider and the" square" tenon will fit in the "round" hole. No trimming, squareing, etc. and nobody will notice.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Ray Y said:


> If you want to round over the edges of the slat to fit a round-ended mortise, wouldn't it be nice to use your router?


A few swipes with a rasp takes off the square end. It doesn't have to look pretty only fit. I just find that making a tenon with a router takes too long. If you have a table or set up to make the tenons then that's another solution but spending the time making such a jig or table for a few tenons doesn't make sense.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Don't really need to mess with mortises or tenons either for that matter. Just groove the rails for the thickness of the slats. Cut some extra slat material and cut it to the length equal to the distance between the slats. Glue in a slat and then a spacer. repeat.


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## BenNevis (Nov 8, 2012)

*Freud Locking problem*



jschaben said:


> I agree with Charles as far as rounding the tenon.
> I'm really more interested in your router problem, which Freud router do you have? Mine simply have a hole in the armature shaft that is engaged by a spring loaded pin. The pin is simply put in the engage position with a lever, or on one of my older models, automatically was activated by a cone when the router was in the fully down position. All components fully visible. If, for some reason, you couldn't get the router down far enough to align with the pin mechanism, you really have a problem with the base range of travel and that would need to go into the shop for correction.


Thanks for the interest John and description of the problem. The router is a Freud FT 1700 VCE and although the lock did initially activate it soon became easy to turn it with finger power. Not good. So instead of having Freud fix it I returned it to Home Depot who immediately (2 days as it wasn't in stock) replaced it with a new one. Now works perfectly - no issues. Moves easily into place for the locking mechanism to engage. Now on to routing... Thanks again William F.

On my king bed project jury is still out on whether to rabbet the rails, mortise them or even cut a wide rabbet with the table saw (recently borrowed from son). Not very confident with that machine yet. Am off to try it now and we'll see. W.F


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## BenNevis (Nov 8, 2012)

Can't get over all the input am getting re my 'little' project. All, and I mean all, suggestions have been noted and actually put in my book for referencing re tenons and moritices and many thanks to you all. Hope to take some time and answer individually but just learning how this forum operates for now please accept this communal 'thank you' for your interest and suggestions. You do not know how gratifying it is to receive them and for me to know there is all this help out there is, as the kids say, awesome!!
Cheers William Findlater


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## BenNevis (Nov 8, 2012)

bcfunburst said:


> You might also consider simply notching the side rails to set in the slats level with the tops of the side rails, giving you the same smooth surface for the box spring and mattress. Same strength and so much more simple all round. Newer bed sets require a center support as well. You can still make covers for the exposed side rail surface, perhaps. Just ideas for you. Hope your router problems turn out to be nothing serious.


Thanks for the post and glad to say router problems are over... working well! Just another question re the 'notching' you suggest. Don't know what you mean exactly but am thinking along these lines....I think. Haven't touched the real rails yet but have tried the table saw to remove 3/4 deep and 1" in to provide the base for the slats. Is notching different in that I'd be making a space for each slat?? If so how? What router trick is that or am I far too new to know this yet?? Any help would be great! WF


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## bcfunburst (Jan 14, 2012)

BenNevis said:


> Thanks for the post and glad to say router problems are over... working well! Just another question re the 'notching' you suggest. Don't know what you mean exactly but am thinking along these lines....I think. Haven't touched the real rails yet but have tried the table saw to remove 3/4 deep and 1" in to provide the base for the slats. Is notching different in that I'd be making a space for each slat?? If so how? What router trick is that or am I far too new to know this yet?? Any help would be great! WF


Notching is exactly the same. I guess my woodworking terms are not correct, always. You can do the center support joints as "lap joints" and install a center leg for support, at head, foot and center. I used teflon skid caps for the bottom of all feet. Makes it SO easy to move the bed, fully assembled.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

William after re reading your original post I'm not exactly sure what you are trying to do. You are making a king size bed correct? Is you question how to attach the rails to the head and foot board or how to make the rails support the box spring?


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