# rockler box joint jig. ... what am i doing wrong?



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

ok... been trying to rig this jig all morning.

the problem i'm having - maybe its not compatible with my router table?

the silver bar of the mounting hardware is too thick, so its not sitting flush in the grove of my table. (see 3rd pic)
because of this, the other end of the jig/platform/ table (that is sitting on my router table) is lower than the end with the bar. so then i took a 1/4" square dowel to prop the other end up. (see first pic)

then the next issue is it wants to move side to side. and i need it to stay still so I had to clamp two pieces of wood to either side to hold it in place. (see 2nd pic)

I'm feeling it shouldn't be this difficult. i searched youtube and found tutorials on how to use it, but couldn't find any tutorials on how to solve these issues. any assistance is greatly appreciated.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I think you would do best to return this jig and get one from either Peachtree or MLCS. They are both clones of the Oak Park jigs which are much easier to use.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Stephanie,

Your photos are confusing to me. A box joint jig doesn't look like what I think I'm seeing. Can you take more photos? 

There is no way that a box joint jig can work correctly if the miter bar doesn't fit the miter slot of your router table or table saw. You should probably send this jig back and get one that fits properly or see if they offer one with a miter bar that will fit your need.

Here's a way to make your own box joint jig -

Do you have a miter gauge that rides in the slot of your router table correctly? If you do it would be easy to attach a board to the face of it to make your own box joint jig. You attach the board, set the desired height of your router bit and make a cut through it. Then you make a "Key" which is nothing more than a strip of hardwood that exactly matches the size in height and width of the cut that you just made through the first board (your new box joint fence) and is about 6" long. Cut 2" off of the end of this key and save it. Now glue one end the 4" piece into the slot of the fence board so it looks like a tongue and it lays flat on the table. When the glue dries. Move thie fence board over and place the spacer alongside of the tongue. Now move both back toward the router bit until the spacer touches one flute of the router bit. Now very carefully, without allowing anything to move, re-attach the fence board to your miter fence. Remove the spacer and save it for future use. Now start your router and make a through cut through the fence board. 

If you have done everything correctly there should now be 2 cuts through your fence board with a square stick glued into one of them, and the space between these two cuts should be exactly the same width as these cuts are. If they are, then your home made box jointjig is ready to use. The resulting pins of your work and the spacing between them must be the same for the jig to work properly. This is the most critical part of the jig. If you change the bit or bit height or the box joint pin size and spacing you will need to make a new jig. 

An I-Box jig is expensive to buy, but it is the best adjustable way to make box joints that I've found, and the only piece that needs to be changed when you change the size of the box joint is a piece of 1/4" MDF You can use this piece several times in different positions before it needs replacing. The jig can be used on either a router table or a table saw (I prefer table saw, but you will need a 3/8 X 3/4" miter slot to use it. There is a special version available to fit the Shop Smith and I think the only difference is a size change of the miter bar, but I don't know what size it is on a Shop Smith.

Charley


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## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

CharleyL said:


> Stephanie,
> 
> Your photos are confusing to me. A box joint jig doesn't look like what I think I'm seeing. Can you take more photos?
> 
> ...


here's a link to the product so you can see it/understand its use. 

Rockler Router Table Box Joint Jig - YouTube

i think you and mike are right, i'm thinking of returning it.
it just shouldn't be this confusing and difficult.


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## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

i'm just dissappointed. was hoping to make a box joint box today.


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## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

Mike said:


> I think you would do best to return this jig and get one from either Peachtree or MLCS. They are both clones of the Oak Park jigs which are much easier to use.


thanks i'll check it out


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Stephanie 
What kind router table do you have, does not look like a standard t track


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## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

Semipro said:


> Stephanie
> What kind router table do you have, does not look like a standard t track


Ryobi router table


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

Looks like your table slots are too shallow for the guides provided with the jig. Won't work in this case.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

denniswoody said:


> Looks like your table slots are too shallow for the guides provided with the jig. Won't work in this case.



+1.

The jig would be designed to work only with standard 3/4" mitre slots...

My old GMC table saw had that problem.


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## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

jw2170 said:


> +1.
> 
> The jig would be designed to work only with standard 3/4" mitre slots...
> 
> My old GMC table saw had that problem.


thanks. i'm returning it otday.


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