# Router Table Build (pic heavy)



## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

I had a lot of fun looking at (stealing) idea's from other router table designs. I've gotten a few helpful tips from the folks here as well (also came up with a few of my own). 

Researching the tables I found myself wanting for more pics of the process. So... I decided to document my build so others can indulge themselves, as I have, looking at the hundreds of pics out there in google land.

I already have three Kreg tables. But they are task specific and don't like changing things about. I wanted another table for general use that I can change bits and setups quickly. I decided to build this one and put in a Jessem Mast R Lift II and the PC7518.

All the cabinet materials, including the pulls and hinges, are left over from other jobs.

Enjoy...

The sides & back all dadoed...









The glue up starts...


















Laying out the face frame...









Milling up all the parts...




































Glueing on the face frame with a couple spring boards...









Next was making the door and side panels...









Notice the holes on the cabinet sides and the dust port out the back...









More to come...


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

Adding spacer blocks for the side panels...









Gluing on the side panels...









I left the bottom filler out between the side wall and panel to create an air draw for dust collection.
Thats what those little holes in the sides were for...









All glued up and sanded...


















Gluing the edgebanding on the base...









Edgebanding trimmed and sanded. Routing the air draw slots...









Here is the finished detail of the air draw.
There's now a base added with 1/2" slots routed in.
The four inch rubber wheels are from Grizzly...


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

Fitting the door panel and drawer fronts...









Thicknessing the drawer backs & sides...









Cutting the backs & sides to length...









Dovetails and boxes complete...









The primer & paint goes on...


















The drawers assembled and installed...









Here she is all dress up. The paint is on (Agualente water bourne lacquer),
hardware on, and one of two fences I have... a shop made fence and a newly
purchased Woodpeckers RF-3...









Storage down below. One drawer is poplar, the other is pine...


















Router and lift bay...


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

I had to relocate the screws on the Woodpeckers table
to line up with the height adjusters on the Jessem lift.
These screws keep the adjustment screws from digging into the MDF...









Shop made fence and adjustable height switch tower...









Fence is made from 3/4" birch ply and 1/2" & 3/4" Azek...



























Woodpeckers RF-3 fence...


















Closeup of the details...


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

WOW!! Thanks very much for the detailed photos of the building process.
Clearly it is intended that the router is not removed and used for hand held routering, but then if you have three tables already, you must also have multiple routers. What is your preferred brand and model? 
My one concern is whether there is sufficient air exchange for the router? (Thanks to Cassandra for raising my awareness of this point)


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

mftha said:


> WOW!! Thanks very much for the detailed photos of the building process.
> Clearly it is intended that the router is not removed and used for hand held routering, but then if you have three tables already, you must also have multiple routers. What is your preferred brand and model?
> My one concern is whether there is sufficient air exchange for the router? (Thanks to Cassandra for raising my awareness of this point)


Hi Tom,

I'm not sure how many routers I have. Three or four Bosch's I think, three Porter Cables, couple PC laminate trimmers, and an older Makita 3hp plunge router that is my work horse for dados. I can't believe this thing is still going. Thirty years I think of everyday use. No real brand preference. I'm happy with the ones I have. You might have guessed changing bits is a pet peeve of mine. I like to just pick up the router and go.

The dust collection is working remarkably well. There is some stuff left over in the corners of the router well. I may address it with baffles... or not. My shop vac adaptor broke that I use on the fence so I may go with a split hose setup to the dust collector. Haven't got that far yet.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi 2bigfeet:

Exceptional table!! Excellent presentation! A very big welcome to the Router Forums!!

Cassandra
(droolling)


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

mftha said:


> My one concern is whether there is sufficient air exchange for the router? (Thanks to Cassandra for raising my awareness of this point)


Hi Tom:

Unless I'm missing something here, 2bigfeet has incorporated dust collection into the sides and back of the router cabinet. On the sides, air flow would travel up from the base between the double wall structure. On the back, the dust collector would pull the dust-laden air from the router cabinet. (Thanks for raising our awareness on this point!)

Tom, is your concern whether there is sufficient cross-sectional area of the air channels? The channels at the bottom of the walls might be a bit small. 2bigfeet, what is the cross-sectional area of the air channel, at the smallest area?

Excellent design work, 2bigfeet!

Cassandra


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

Cassandra said:


> ...2bigfeet, what is the cross-sectional area of the air channel, at the smallest area?
> 
> Excellent design work, 2bigfeet!
> 
> Cassandra


Thank you Cassandra.

Using my expansive engineering knowledge (none!), I have no idea what the area is... LOL! I looked at the four inch dust port opening in the back, guessed the six side holes should cover it (well at least as close as the hole saw I had), then I guessed again on the bottom openings. Turns out it works. Good guess!


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

4" diameter hole has area of 12.6 sq in

Two wall channels --> 6.3 sq in per channel

If wall channel is 18" long, we would need 0.35" wide channel

You indicated that the slot is 1/2" wide

Conclusion: adequate cross-sectional area on air intake

(Yes, I know that a 4" duct is less than 4" ID)

Cassandra


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great job, Kerry.

Obviously a great deal of detail went into the build.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

*Super nice and clean looking Kerry!!*


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

good looking cabinet much nicer lookin than mine which was built with scraps and funcionality in mind it works and will get the job done but does not look near as nice as yours


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Nice build, Kerry.


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## don_chr (Feb 20, 2011)

*Nice Job*

2bigfeet,

Excellent job on the table. The hidden air flow channels gives a great finished look. Enjoy your table.

Don


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

Today I spent a little time coming up with a two hose system for the table. I had only tried the hose off the back port previously and it seemed to work fine down below, but the fence well filled right up.

In order to make the connections work, I removed the square port I had installed and just slide the "T" into the 4" hole... which fit like a glove.

I first cut some 3/4" rabbits in some scrap with the DC off. Naturally it made a mess and filled the fence in no time. I fired up the DC and did the same cuts. I literally could not see any dust being produced it was being sucked away that fast. With the DC still running I went to look inside and noticed a good bit of suction pulling on the door. You can also hear air whirring through the side air holes.

So I guess things worked out as planned. Here are a couple more pics showing the new setup of whats left behind... just a little dust in the corners. Absolutely nothing in the fence well...


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Great looking table Kerry and glad you have it working like you want. I saw some pics of your shop in another post, NICE!!! ....... Excellent use of space and portable tables..... good size shop.... the 3 router tables looks awsome and that huge air compressor :big_boss:


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## JBS (Dec 19, 2010)

Very nice table Kerry. Your table gives me very good ideas (air intakes) to finally build my stand-alone table!!! Thanx for sharing.


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

Thanks for the all kind words guys.

The new router table has been getting a workout this past week and I must say I'm very pleased with the outcome.

The Kreg tables have been feeling a little left out, so I decided to give them a face lift and work on containing the dust from them as well. I'll post pics in a few days when they're all done.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Outstanding effort Kerry.... job well done indeed!


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

2bigfeet said:


> The Kreg tables have been feeling a little left out, so I decided to give them a face lift and work on containing the dust from them as well. I'll post pics in a few days when they're all done.


Looking forward to it. I used my top on sawhorses, then bought a stand when I needed the sawhorses elsewhere. I picked up an inexpensive stand, but since I am modding my router, I now want it enclosed. Debating on weather to build a whole case, or simply enclose the stand in some way.

Thanks for the idea's.


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## RobinLocksley (Mar 28, 2011)

*You do really beautiful work!*



2bigfeet said:


> I had to relocate the screws on the Woodpeckers table
> to line up with the height adjusters on the Jessem lift.
> These screws keep the adjustment screws from digging into the MDF...
> 
> ...


this thread makes me wish i could afford the top and fence, so i could make one like this lovely one you made!!


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Just as I get my table build back underway and looking decent, I feel wholly inadequate.


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Very nice. Excuse me if you have answered this, but how do you get the beadboard? In a 1/4 inch sheet?

KR


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

As promised here are some pics of the upgrades to the Kreg router tables.

I really just wanted to close them in and hook up some dust collection, which I started to do with 1/2" MDO plywood. Sitting next to the other new table though, they looked a little drab... so you can see I got a little carried away keeping in theme with the other table... :blink:

I painted the side panels, backs, and bottoms to match the new table...










I built frames for the fronts with the idea of a door to match the beadboard of the other table...










Here are the tables with the painted panels in place. The beauty of the Kreg tables is
that there are holes already predrilled to attach the panels. Just a matter of screwing
them in place with 1/2" drawer slide screws....










I wanted to maintain a clean look of no hinges showing, so I stayed with a couple of 165 degree Euro hinges...



















Door in place...










This pic shows the dust collection in place and the slots routed in the sides for the air draw.
I can flip the side panels so the slots are more toward the bottom, but so far this works fine...










Here is the family photo...


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

One other detail, I had stolen a switch off one of the Kreg tables to put on this one. Needing a third switch, I found this one made by Jessem and reworked the mount I had the Kreg switch on. Turns out its the perfect place to clip the remote for the dust collector...










You can see my second remote on the table saw fence in the background. Yes... I'm lazy.


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

Kelly Rittgers said:


> Very nice. Excuse me if you have answered this, but how do you get the beadboard? In a 1/4 inch sheet?
> 
> KR


Hi Kelly,

Here in the North East (especially along the shoreline) beadboard is used a lot in cabinet work and trim, so most lumber yards usually stock both the dimensioned varieties of fir, azek, FJP pine etc. and 4x8 sheets of MDF beadboard in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" thicknesses.


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

My goodness that is quite the set up you have.

I don't think I can get it in 4 x 8 sheets but can get in 1/4 inch pieces. I assume I would glue those together to get the same effect. Might be tricky. I imagine they should be glued.

Very impressive.

KR


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Kelly Rittgers said:


> My goodness that is quite the set up you have.
> 
> I don't think I can get it in 4 x 8 sheets but can get in 1/4 inch pieces. I assume I would glue those together to get the same effect. Might be tricky. I imagine they should be glued.
> 
> ...


Kelly - Try your Home Depot or Lowes for sheets of beadboard. My HD stocks it, a little less than 20 bucks a sheet I think.


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Is it 4 x 8 MDF at HD or 4 x 8 pine (if you know)?

KR


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Kelly Rittgers said:


> Is it 4 x 8 MDF at HD or 4 x 8 pine (if you know)?
> 
> KR


It is plywood, I've been looking at it for a protected exterior application. Still wrestling with how to finish it for application though. I think there may be some prefinished stuff back around the panelling also that may be MDF with Melamine. Not real sure about that.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi KR

You can also make your own, it's nice if you have it on hand but it's one thing you will not use all the time, I will suggest you buy the blank stock and than cut up a part that you need than put the beads in place..it's like having some nice stock and the grain is not going in the right way...but it's not a big deal if you make your own. 

See video on the web page below.
On-Point Universal Laser Guided Router Plate


========


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Great tip. Thanks.

KR


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

BJ-or anyone, I get some 1/4 inch pine bead board pieces that have a tongue and groove joint. If I wanted to use these, to make inset panels in a rail and stile situation, would you just glue and clamp, using a tiny amount of wood glue? It looks like the glue could get out of hand quite easily. But just a few dabs here and there probably wouldn't squeeze out.

Thoughts?

KR


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi KR

If it's real wood you want it float in the frame but if it's MDF or plywood you can glue it in place with care, BUT if you get some squeeze out just use some white vinegar and some bottle water mix (50/50 thing) to clean up the glue b/4 it drys out..(paint or stain the panel b/4 you put it in the frame )


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Kelly Rittgers said:


> BJ-or anyone, I get some 1/4 inch pine bead board pieces that have a tongue and groove joint. If I wanted to use these, to make inset panels in a rail and stile situation, would you just glue and clamp, using a tiny amount of wood glue? It looks like the glue could get out of hand quite easily. But just a few dabs here and there probably wouldn't squeeze out.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> KR


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

I was thinking I would glue the little boards together, let then dry and put them into the frame without gluing to the frame. I think it could be done by careful gluing. I am going to give it a try.

KR


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## wooddove (Apr 20, 2011)

Good grief 2bigfeet, If I had a router table like that I'd keep it in the kichen!
Thanks for the great ideas. With a lot of hard work and a year of diligent effort, I may be able to come up with a workable grade B model.

Chiseler


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## Slomoe (Feb 14, 2011)

If I got this right, you are pulling fresh air thru slots in the bottom, up between the double wall sides, thru 3 per side holes into the vacuum chamber and exiting out the back. Nice design, and great workmanship, but I think I would have put the 3 holes near the top to help create a gravity helped ( to set the dust and chip particles in motion) air flow from the top down. You may be on to something here. I wonder what would happen if you extend the double wall up to and across the bottom of the table, putting a 12-14” circle near the route base and angle the enter holes to create a spinning tornado effect, thereby increasing airspeed and volume? My question about not only yours but all the tables build with a vacuum box under the table is this. Inside this hot dusty box, where the air is flowing in and out at high speed with negative air pressure, the router is competing to pull air thru its top and out at the bit end. Air is also rushing in around the bit area at the table top going against the air flow out of the router. Which air flow direction will win the battle? Does any of this put more load on the router as the router is trying to pull air against a vacuum at the head end. How much effect does the vacuum box design have on cooling air flow through the router motor? The air flow through the router motor will be from the hot dusty environment inside the box. Why not wrap the very top of the router head with a piece of aluminum as a duct and have it extend down thru the floor below. The duct would have to extend below the floor level equal to the amount of its lift with a snug but moveable fit at the floor. That way the router would be pulling clean cool outside air thru the motor rather than hot dusty air through it resulting in longer life and no pitch and dust build up on internal parts. Plus the router would not be trying to pull air against the flow of the vacuum. --- 
Again nice work and innovation.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

*Nice, REALLY nice!!*


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

Slomoe said:


> If I got this right, you are pulling fresh air thru slots in the bottom, up between the double wall sides, thru 3 per side holes into the vacuum chamber and exiting out the back. Nice design, and great workmanship, but I think I would have put the 3 holes near the top to help create a gravity helped ( to set the dust and chip particles in motion) air flow from the top down. You may be on to something here. I wonder what would happen if you extend the double wall up to and across the bottom of the table, putting a 12-14” circle near the route base and angle the enter holes to create a spinning tornado effect, thereby increasing airspeed and volume? My question about not only yours but all the tables build with a vacuum box under the table is this. Inside this hot dusty box, where the air is flowing in and out at high speed with negative air pressure, the router is competing to pull air thru its top and out at the bit end. Air is also rushing in around the bit area at the table top going against the air flow out of the router. Which air flow direction will win the battle? Does any of this put more load on the router as the router is trying to pull air against a vacuum at the head end. How much effect does the vacuum box design have on cooling air flow through the router motor? The air flow through the router motor will be from the hot dusty environment inside the box. Why not wrap the very top of the router head with a piece of aluminum as a duct and have it extend down thru the floor below. The duct would have to extend below the floor level equal to the amount of its lift with a snug but moveable fit at the floor. That way the router would be pulling clean cool outside air thru the motor rather than hot dusty air through it resulting in longer life and no pitch and dust build up on internal parts. Plus the router would not be trying to pull air against the flow of the vacuum. ---
> Again nice work and innovation.


Hi Tim... thanks.

I found it doesn't seem to matter much whether the air is being drawn from the top of the router box or the bottom, as long as you have robust dust collection. There is virtually little or no dust left in any of my three tables. One is drawing from the bottom... the other two from the top.

As far as heat and negative air pressure goes, good name brand routers are a hardy bunch. I have routers that are over thirty years old and still going strong. In that time I've routed without dust collection (until recently) where the router is buried in dust falling through the table and into the router. Talk about heat build up. They just go and go. If I have to buy a couple more routers any time soon I'll still be ahead of the game. The ones I have don't owe me a penny. 

I think what you are talking about with wrapping the router is similar to Keen Products dust collection. A nice product, but would hinder my work flow.


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

Thank you Russ & Lee.


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## GWEE (Jan 15, 2007)

2bigfeet said:


> As promised here are some pics of the upgrades to the Kreg router tables.
> 
> I really just wanted to close them in and hook up some dust collection, which I started to do with 1/2" MDO plywood. Sitting next to the other new table though, they looked a little drab... so you can see I got a little carried away keeping in theme with the other table... :blink:
> 
> ...


You are my hero:wub:


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

That is a great build,Kerry Very nice design, and a great amount of design detail as well . I am a get it working type, and I have taken a good lesson from You, I think ! When I have a bit of time, I'll put it into finishing main! Beautiful job!


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