# Locking Miter Router bits



## woodworker319 (Feb 14, 2009)

I bought a locking miter bit at Lowe's it is a Skill for $24.00. I want to buy a setup block. I was wondering if all locking miter bits have the same contour from other manufactures. If so you could use anyones setup blocks.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Nope they are all slightly different, I would not trust it unless the blocks were made for your bits. Making a set from your bits is the best way.


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

nickao65 said:


> Nope they are all slightly different, I would not trust it unless the blocks were made for your bits. Making as set from your bits is the best way.


The bit also needs to be set for the _specific_ stock you're using, with the same setup being used to cut both sides of the joint meaning errors are doubled in the finished product.

You pretty much want to approximate the setup (set the center of the profile to the center of the stock; this is halfway along the angled run from finger to groove and make a flat piece accross the top of your stock meet the bit at the fence), cut two pieces, measure the error, and then correct.

A scrap will get you close if you have to do another run with the same stock.


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## Electron (May 22, 2008)

Larry, no special devices are needed to set up lock miter cutters. The simplest method that I've come across was described by George Vondriska in the April 2000 issue of AMERICAN WOODWORKER, I'm sure it's possible to find this somewhere. After set up, keep a sample of that thickness wood for future fast set up, a new one for each thickness.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Larry 

Just to add to Harry's post (Electron )

I have many setup blocks and many are just door stops 
The real key is the thickness of the stock you are using for the project, as you know all stock is not the same thickness all the time..this is what I would suggest you do, pull yours bit(s) out and find a good black marker and put a thin black mark on the center cutter, now do the other bit, once the mark is dry pull your scratch all out,,,then check the center line on the bit 3 or 4 times, if your sure it's dead center take your scratch all and scratch a line on the painted part of the bit, try and keep it as true as you can to the black mark on the cutter..then when you want to use the bit use the scratch line to line up the center line on the stock...just slide the stock into the bit and lock the bit in place, then move the fence into place..

Use the top edge of the bit to line up the bit to the fence, use a ruler ( ? ) so the edge of the ruler sits right at the edge of the bit..,,lock the fence in place..

Then clamp a stop block on the back side of the fence, you can use the stop block in case you are using the BIG bit,, just pull the fence forward a little and made the cut in a pass or two..,,,,the bit big will pull tons of stock out and you want the last pass to be very clean and with a sharp edge,,

If you get snipe on the end of the pass, stick on some scrap stock to the board so you have some stock next to the fence when you come out of the pass...but you want the sharp edge on the stock..you take if off but you can put it back on ..

But I will say I have one that works well for many type of bits,,it will set the setup block for just about any thickness of stock by just turning the knob on the setup wheel,,, but you need to mic. the stock 1st.,,,but it fits the CMT/Sommerfeld/Freud bits and some others bits, but not all.
it runs about 25.oo dollars for the setup block..(from sommerfeld tools)

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Electron said:


> Larry, no special devices are needed to set up lock miter cutters. The simplest method that I've come across was described by George Vondriska in the April 2000 issue of AMERICAN WOODWORKER, I'm sure it's possible to find this somewhere. After set up, keep a sample of that thickness wood for future fast set up, a new one for each thickness.


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## woodworker319 (Feb 14, 2009)

*Locking Miter Bits*

I would like to Thank Everyone for there help. I will make my own setup blocks.

Thank You 
Larry


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## Greeneyedeagle (Feb 15, 2009)

Larry,
I'd like to add my 2 cents.

Yes they are correct in saying that the wood thinkness changes everything. Two 1/2 inch pieces may not be exactly 1/2 inch. So the set up does change with the wood thickness.

The key for me is I do the following. I try to do as stated and make the center of the bit to line up with the center of the stock. Then I place a straight edge ontop of two pieces, on either side of the bit against the fence, and I move the fence back until the bit cutter "Just" touches the straight edge and then I bring the fence back in just a hair. I run my test piece and if the bit has to go up or down...then the fence will have to be adjusted again. ( I look for the bit to come barely to the top edge of the board) Once I get it dialed in, I measure my wood thickness, measure the height of my bit and measure the distance of the fence, either from the front of the table or the back, and I record all of that in a book that I've been keeping. It may not be exact for the next set of boards but it will be close....all depending on the thickness.

You can also run a piece of the wood thru the bit and write the measurements on it...and use it for a setup block.

Hope this helps.

Palmer


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