# Routing a flute blank safely



## dtaylor15 (Jan 22, 2006)

Hello to all,
I am not an avid router user, although I do have a Bosch fixed base and plunge router. I have been making Native american flutes, they are constructed in 2 halves and glued together to make a blank. My blanks are 24 inches long, I want to use a 3/4 core box bit and bore a 3/8 deep groove in each half, then skip a 1.5 inch section and router another groove about 4 inches long, I have a router table, but just wondering what is the safest way to route, then lift the wood and plunge back in, maybe there is not trick to it, but looks like a dangerous operation. I don't want to make the ski or sled, not sure how many flutes I will make in time, so can someone provide me some information to perform this operation? 
I have been a member of this site, more of a looker, but figured no better place to ask the question. Thanks in advance to all that answer.

Dennis


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## km28104 (Feb 12, 2013)

I also make native american "style" flutes and that is the only way I know of to route the flute halves. The only other way I could think of is the use of a CNC router.

Ken


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Pictures would help.


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

Is it feasible to route in one direction, up to a depth stop, then reset the depth stop to give the un-routed piece and route from the other direction? That way you will not have to lift and plunge, in fact you can use featherboards (top and side) to keep the workpiece in place. Only issue is having to let the router stop spinning before you pull back on the piece. Would work well if you were doing several flutes - you could do all the longer grooves, then re-set the depth stop and do all the shorter ones. Don't know whether you would have to plug one end - not familiar with the design.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

If i'm envisioning this right--a router ski style jig might work better than the table. You'd be able to see the cut line, and even (as suggested) set stops. Taking that a step further, would it be possible to keep your stock wide, route several parallel grooves then rip the blanks off with a band saw?? 

earl


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

dtaylor15 said:


> Hello to all,
> I am not an avid router user, although I do have a Bosch fixed base and plunge router. I have been making Native american flutes, they are constructed in 2 halves and glued together to make a blank. My blanks are 24 inches long, I want to use a 3/4 core box bit and bore a 3/8 deep groove in each half, then skip a 1.5 inch section and router another groove about 4 inches long, I have a router table, but just wondering what is the safest way to route, then lift the wood and plunge back in, maybe there is not trick to it, but looks like a dangerous operation. I don't want to make the ski or sled, not sure how many flutes I will make in time, so can someone provide me some information to perform this operation?
> I have been a member of this site, more of a looker, but figured no better place to ask the question. Thanks in advance to all that answer.
> 
> Dennis


 As a rule, I avoid dropping wood onto a spinning bit as it is easy to lose control and bad things can happen very quickly. One of the things plunge routers were invented for is the job you are describing. I would build a frame around the workpiece that is level with it and clamp a board at the right distance from the center of the channel to guide the router like a fence. You can stops where you need them.

If you absolutely have to do it on a router table then start with the workpiece against a stop on the right side of the table, as you will be working from right to right, and lower the board slowly onto the bit with your fingers as far away from the spinning bit as possible. Then rout to the next stop and then turn the router off and hold steady until it quits spinning before you try to lift up. It can bew done this way with a small margin of safety but if you have a plunge use it. With a plunge the bit is never exposed except while cutting and your fingers never get close to the bit.

There are lots of operations that can be done in unsafe or marginally safe ways numerous times without getting hurt. It is the time that it doesn't work that is the problem. Sometimes you only get one chance to screw up.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

No pictures displayed leads me to this question:

After the two pieces are hollowed out by the router and glued up is the resulting piece turned on the lathe?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Plans for Making Native American Flutes

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&....9.0...0.0...1ac.1.12.heirloom-hp.KCZKPutUyRY

==


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Ah. that link posted by Bobj3 helps a whole lot to understand what you mean. 
I'd recommend making a ski or sled or jig, whatever you want to call it. I often make one if I'm only making as few as two of the same thing, allows considtenceny and accuracy. And will always be there later when, and if, you want to make another.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Glue up two boards so you get the 1 1/4" thickness.
The width however is not 1 1/4".
Make the width about 6". Pine is cheap if that is what you are using.

Gouge out on the router table one edge per the directions. Since the board is 6" wide, your fingers are well away from the router bit.

With a band saw or table saw, cut off from the edge you just gouged out 1 1/4".
Joint the edge left so you have a good glue edge.
Repeat.

Then glue those pieces.

Proceed.

Routing first then cutting a thin slice off is a standard safe practice.
The opposite (cut then rout) is not.


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