# Bit Problems



## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I got my spiral bit set from Oak Park ( 1/4, 3/8, 1/2) and I have been trying out the 3/8" bit with the box joint jig. The problem is the bit is about .007" undersize so the slots are very tight when I slide them over the rail on the jig. It makes it hard to slide the work piece along the rail. Is this within normal tolerances for a router bit or should I be returning it?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

Try this pull out a standard 3/8" router bit and chuck it up,,, they work very well because you don't need the plunge bit for this job..

As far as returning it that's up to you,,,some are smaller in diam.

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CanuckGal said:


> I got my spiral bit set from Oak Park ( 1/4, 3/8, 1/2) and I have been trying out the 3/8" bit with the box joint jig. The problem is the bit is about .007" undersize so the slots are very tight when I slide them over the rail on the jig. It makes it hard to slide the work piece along the rail. Is this within normal tolerances for a router bit or should I be returning it?


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

By standard do you mean just a straight bit?. I was using a straight bit originally and wasn't very happy with the cut. (But the slot was the right size). I was getting a lot of tearing and chip out even with a backer block. I was working with some plain pine boards. In the videos they use and recommend a spiral bit, so I thought maybe that was the problem and that was half the reason I ordered them. I hope I haven't wasted a hundred bucks.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

.007 is within spec. I bet a week after you make those cuts it will be loose not tight. I always choose the undersized cutter if I have a choice. If it's perfect to begin with many, many times it is to loose a week later. In my location and in my shop the wood tends to shrink after cutting ever so slightly.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

Double check to make sure that you have a 3/8" distance between the bit and the rail on the spacer jig. Also needs to be the same in height if not slightly above. This WILL make a difference in what you encounter.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

CanuckGal said:


> By standard do you mean just a straight bit?. I was using a straight bit originally and wasn't very happy with the cut. (But the slot was the right size). I was getting a lot of tearing and chip out even with a backer block. I was working with some plain pine boards. In the videos they use and recommend a spiral bit, so I thought maybe that was the problem and that was half the reason I ordered them. I hope I haven't wasted a hundred bucks.


Sounds like a dull bit was your problem here. Not the type of bit. Let's just say you made an investment in some good bits.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Deb

Yes with a good straight bit,,, pine can be nasty sometimes,,,try this make a sandwich with some 1/8" MDF/plywood on both sides of the stock, pine is soft but is stringy and likes to tear out other than cut clean....the backer boards will help, plus if it's real soft pine make the slots in two passes, just clamp the sandwich up b/4 you start....


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CanuckGal said:


> By standard do you mean just a straight bit?. I was using a straight bit originally and wasn't very happy with the cut. (But the slot was the right size). I was getting a lot of tearing and chip out even with a backer block. I was working with some plain pine boards. In the videos they use and recommend a spiral bit, so I thought maybe that was the problem and that was half the reason I ordered them. I hope I haven't wasted a hundred bucks.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

OK Bob I can see that working better. It was just scrap practice stuff I was working on but I will keep that in mind. I would like to make some drawer boxes out of 3/8" plywood with the box joint. I have "practiced" a bit on plywood and it rips and chips even worse so I imagine this "sandwich" could work on plywood too? What wood would you recommend for drawers? The ones I am making are just for the shop so they don't need to be fancy.
It's a good thing I am making lots of scrap wood pieces now to use for stuff like this later I guess..lol.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

The ply should not chip out to where it is unusable. If it does chip out badly the bit is dull or the ply is a really low grade.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Deb

I don't recommend cutting slots/dovetails.etc. into plywood 

You can make strong drawers by just putting the plywood into a dado slot/rabbit etc.you don't want to wreaking the joint by removing the material that's making the joint, as you know plywood is made with cross pattern of stock and when you cut into it you are going with the grain and then not with the grain...it likes to snap off most of the time..

Plywood is great for the bottom of the drawer but not for the parts to the drawer, I like to use 3/8" / 1/2" poplar for most drawers it's cheap most of the time and it will take the milling easy..

I also like to use 1/2" thick MDF.. it's always true and clean...but it also likes to chip out a little bit but if you use the sandwich way it works well..

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CanuckGal said:


> OK Bob I can see that working better. It was just scrap practice stuff I was working on but I will keep that in mind. I would like to make some drawer boxes out of 3/8" plywood with the box joint. I have "practiced" a bit on plywood and it rips and chips even worse so I imagine this "sandwich" could work on plywood too? What wood would you recommend for drawers? The ones I am making are just for the shop so they don't need to be fancy.
> It's a good thing I am making lots of scrap wood pieces now to use for stuff like this later I guess..lol.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Haha I guess I was just a little over enthusiastic about making box joints. I'll give the poplar a try for that. I'll just make plain joint drawers for the shop.
Thanks for all the help and advice. Thank goodness for this forum!


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