# Is My Incra Ultralite set up right



## p3auul (Jan 3, 2012)

Have I set up the Ultralite correctly? The instructions said that the fence should be to the right. It also shows that the clamp is on the other side of the operator. My question is that it looks to me like the project would be pushed so that the rotation of the bit would tend to push the board away from the fence according to the direction arrows on the table. I have a non-standard table it seems and I was wondering if I need to alter the setup. What do y'all think? I've enclosed images so you can see the setup and my table. Would it be better to set it up on the long side of the table?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Paul. the setup appears correct, however you will need a sacrificial or split fence so that, for edge trim work, the cutter rests "in' the fence and only the cutting edge is exposed and you must pass the work from the right side to the left.

How you have it set would work for dados.

You should not feed any piece between the fence and the cutter.

http://youtu.be/y9B_HRUQHtY


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## p3auul (Jan 3, 2012)

Hi1 Thanks for replying. I dont show the right angle attachment. The way I have it set up, it would be in front of me. This is to allow me to cut boxjoints and dovetails. I would be pushing the RA attachment away from me toward the bit. Is this still the way to do it.? The boards would be on end.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Paul, there are 3 in the video series. they show in detail how to use the fence and the right angle attachment.

INCRA LS Demo, Part 2 of 3 - YouTube

INCRA LS Demo Part 3 of 3 - YouTube


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Part 1 of 3
INCRA LS Demo, Part 1 of 3 - YouTube



jw2170 said:


> Hi Paul, there are 3 in the video series. they show in detail how to use the fence and the right angle attachment.
> 
> INCRA LS Demo, Part 2 of 3 - YouTube
> 
> INCRA LS Demo Part 3 of 3 - YouTube


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

Hi Paul
What I would have done different is I would have the fence parallel with the miter slot,then it would be easy to set up a feather board etc.I would also build a "extension type bracket" so you can get the positioner farther behind the cutter,taking full advantage of the travel.This will enable you to do full 12" deep joints.I know you have had some less than perfect dealings so far,sure hope the right angle fixture came with the package.


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## p3auul (Jan 3, 2012)

Thanks for all the links. The LS is a great machine but what has got me confused is initial set up. The wood will be pushed forward between the fence and the router bit. At the point closest to the fence the bit will be turning away from the oncoming board. On the other side of the bit the the bit will be coming toward the board. I guess I'm just all confused. Look closely at this recent pic I uploaded. See the three black arrows? When I do free hand work such as making a decorative edge with a Roman Ogee I push the wood the way the arrows indicate. If I tried to push the wood on the other side of the bit the wood would fly out of hands.


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

Paul,to use the incra for other work,add a piece of sacrifical marerial such as mdf to the face of the fence(as James has said above),thick enough so your cutter will not contact the aluminum extrusion.then plow the cutter into the mdf and you have a zero clearance fence.Expose the amount of cutter you need for the profile out of the fence and feed your stock along the fence.Do not have your material between the fence and cutter.


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## alaskagypsy (Jan 31, 2009)

Your table is really not the table for an Incra Jig. To have the jig set up the way it is supposed to be on your table you should mount the Incra jig to the opposite side of the name of the table. To do this you would have to add a mount to the side of the table as you wouldn't have enough room for the Incra jig for the correct set up. Then you would be moving the jig toward and away from the "name" on the table, which would put the arrows and the built in slot in the right direction. But due to the way the table is made this would give you a long reach to operate the jig. Always feed the jig right to left. I have seen an add-on section on a table, but usually you need a shorter space to reach your Incra Jig. Check out router tables on this forum and how they are set up for an Incra jig.


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## p3auul (Jan 3, 2012)

> What I would have done different is I would have the fence parallel with the miter slot,then it would be easy to set up a feather board etc.I would also build a "extension type bracket" so you can get the positioner farther behind the cutter,taking full advantage of the travel.This will enable you to do full 12" deep joints.I know you have had some less than perfect dealings so far,sure hope the right angle fixture came with the package.
> Last edited by al m; Today at 01:14 PM.


Thanks Al. Actually, doing it that way does make more sense. I was just trying to duplicate the photos in the manual. Well some time has elapsed. I just tried putting the fence parallel to the miter slot, but unfortunately, I would have only about 4 inches to play with that way. I have 6 1/2 the first way. The table, I know was designed to be used with a fence(which I have) and a miter parallel to it on the other side. When I use it to with a Roman Ogee, which has a bearing, I use it freehand and move the board in the direction of the three black arrows that are painted on the top. Since no part of the wood goes behind the bit, everything is cool. I've never used it to cut dadoes and I guess It would be the same effect I have now. Part of the wood would have to go behind the bit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

" material between the fence and cutter " That's the big down fall with the Incra jig,the material is just about always in a trap mode type set up,the norm..that's why you always see one use the push block with a wood /metal clamp to hold the stock in place to the push block and the fence..
Try it without the push block and you are in for a big surprise the stock will take off like a rocket... 
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al m said:


> Paul,to use the incra for other work,add a piece of sacrifical marerial such as mdf to the face of the fence(as James has said above),thick enough so your cutter will not contact the aluminum extrusion.then plow the cutter into the mdf and you have a zero clearance fence.Expose the amount of cutter you need for the profile out of the fence and feed your stock along the fence.Do not have your material between the fence and cutter.


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## p3auul (Jan 3, 2012)

> Your table is really not the table for an Incra Jig. To have the jig set up the way it is supposed to be on your table you should mount the Incra jig to the opposite side of the name of the table. To do this you would have to add a mount to the side of the table as you wouldn't have enough room for the Incra jig for the correct set up. Then you would be moving the jig toward and away from the "name" on the table, which would put the arrows and the built in slot in the right direction. But due to the way the table is made this would give you a long reach to operate the jig. Always feed the jig right to left. I have seen an add-on section on a table, but usually you need a shorter space to reach your Incra Jig. Check out router tables on this forum and how they are set up for an Incra jig.


Ron, the tables I have seen, built by Incra and Rockler, are the same as mine. That is, they're the same shape, just a little larger. A table is a table. If I had a larger table, I would be able to extend the slide out farther, but I'm happy for the present with 6 1/2 inches. I should be able to make some pretty nice boxes within those limits.


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

Guys
Stop thinking of the incra as a jig,it is a fence first.Just treat it like a fence,then thing will come naturally.It is much simpler to use if you think in those terms.I had my incra light on a home made table that looked smaller than yours Paul.I believe ther is plenty of table behind your router cutter to use.I made a simple bracket out of plywood.The first strip was screwed tou the underside extending out the backside opposite and at 90 to the miter slot.I then built up the extension with more plywood until it was flush wth my table top.Tha incra positioner was srewed to that.Worked well


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

Paul
After reviewing your picture and all that was said on this thread i believe what you have is just fine.You are correct in that 6-1/2" is quite a bit of travel for most box joints and dovetails, and in those operations you use the right angle sled and would never need a miter slot.Because your jig is screwed to a board,then clamped to the table,it is quick and easy to move parallel to the miter slot if you need to use a feather board or such,like making rails or stiles or profileing a edge.I such cases you do not need great distances between the cutter and fence.I do encourace you to make up a split type fence as James has mentioned,then you have so much versitility.You have a great set up,extreme accuracy and versitlity.
Enjoy!


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## p3auul (Jan 3, 2012)

Thanks Al. I understand now why there manual stresses that You always need to clamp your work to the RA and use a push block. I got to thinking though, that with dado cuts in the middle of a board, say , you are using the fence and your work is between the fence and the bit, so what's unique about the ultralite? The more I wrote and read, I convinced myself that My setup should work fine.

I wonder if My MDF table could stand about 6 more inches of MDF screwed to the underside of the table It wouldn't be supported in any way.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Router Forums - View Single Post - Small Router Table

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4883-small-router-table.html


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## p3auul (Jan 3, 2012)

Thanks, BJ that was very informational post. I see by the pics that you have the "Original" and the set up is identical to mine. It was a demo video of the "Original" I saw on Youtube that made me drool and want one too! I take it you haven't had any problems and I hope I won't either. I will definitely not use it without the clamp and pushblock!


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## GerryR (May 15, 2009)

p3auul said:


> Thanks, BJ that was very informational post. I see by the pics that you have the "Original" and the set up is identical to mine. It was a demo video of the "Original" I saw on Youtube that made me drool and want one too! I take it you haven't had any problems and I hope I won't either. I will definitely not use it without the clamp and pushblock!


Hi Paul,

I agree with the other guys commenting here, you do have your setup correct. +1 for adding a ssacraficial fence to avoid contact between the cutter and the fence. 

I mounted my UltraLite on my Ridgid TS 3650 table saw, and integrated an Incra router table on the left side of the saw. 

I solved the problem of access to the saw and the router table by building a mounting board with a hardwood slide that fits into the left miter slot. I then dog it down to the saw table top with a couple of low profile clamps, and the router table is operational. When I'm not using it, I hang the whole assembly on the wall. 

You should be able to get a manual from Incra showing how to use the right angle jig. From experience, adding an extra piece of wood front and back of your project pieces will prevent any blow-out. That said, you can see /download a pdf copy of the manual at https://www.woodpeck.com/media/U_Lite1.pdf

Hope this is of help. 

Gerry


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