# Craftsman Contractor Table Saw Repair Question



## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

I have a Craftsman 10" Contractor Table Saw, model #113.298142. The arbor area has recently become noisy when the saw runs. There is no blade wobble. Parts are available from Sears. I'm not sure which part(s) to replace. Would it just be the arbor bearing? Should I replace the arbor too? What about the retaining rings?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JIMMIEM said:


> I have a Craftsman 10" Contractor Table Saw, model #113.298142. The arbor area has recently become noisy when the saw runs. There is no blade wobble. Parts are available from Sears. I'm not sure which part(s) to replace. *Would it just be the arbor bearing?* Should I replace the arbor too? What about the retaining rings?


most likely...
see a bearing supply house for better quality replacements for less...


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Thank you. Are the 5/8 retaining rings usually reusable? Also, how do identify the arbor bearing specifications?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

JIMMIEM said:


> Thank you. Are the 5/8 retaining rings usually reusable? Also, how do identify the arbor bearing specifications?


You might remove the bearings and take them with you to a motor repair, or bearing shop and they can read the numbers on them and replace them. I have been able to reuse the retaining rings most of the time, the bearing shop might have replacements too, take those in with you. Some of the good hardware stores and auto parts shops hve retaining rings too.

Herb


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Once you have the bearings in hand, you might call Accurate Bearing in Addison, IL--if you don't have luck finding them locally. If you call them, ask for Lynne, have the bearings and calipers in hand (and know how to use them--Lynne is awesome, but she's not terribly patient!!) Advantage of a local bearing supply is that if you take them the arbor, they may remove & press new for a nominal fee. Then again, some houses have a minimum bench fee that would rival buying the tools to do it yourself. 
Good luck!!
earl


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

I'm trying to locate a local bearing supply place. What type of company would that be? The Sears parts site has the replacement for my saw for about $15. When I replaced the pulleys I took the assembly to an auto supply shop and they removed them for me with a gear puller...which I didn't have.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Industrial supply shops and power transmission specialists. Any kind of power transmission involves shafts and bearings. As long as you don't bend the retaining rings getting them off they should be reusable. be careful though. They are usually spring steel and can go an amazing distance if you pop them off without keeping your hand over them.


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## Dr Neon (Apr 15, 2010)

I found that the noise coming from my 113.298750 was in fact the 2" pulley loosening up on the shaft. Simple fix. With the 
saw unplugged just reach in and you can feel the pulley position. If it is too close to the end of the shaft loosen the set screw
and move it back to the correct position. Re-tighten, and you are ready to go.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DrNeon said:


> I found that the noise coming from my 113.298750 was in fact the 2" pulley loosening up on the shaft. Simple fix. With the
> saw unplugged just reach in and you can feel the pulley position. If it is too close to the end of the shaft loosen the set screw
> and move it back to the correct position. Re-tighten, and you are ready to go.


if it is the pully.. add another set screw on top of the 1st and it won't loosen again..


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## Gerry Kiernan (Jul 19, 2007)

Try popping the bearing seals out and greasing the bearings. They may just be getting dry.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

I've got the arbor housing out but I'm having trouble getting the shaft out. I've seen blogs that say to tap with a brass drift and hammer.
How hard can it be hit without doing damage? Any other methods to get it out? I located a bearing shop and they said that they can press the new bearing on.....but have to get the old one off first......maybe the shop can do this too?
How about a gear puller?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

let the shop do all the pressing and pulling...


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Thank You. Just dropped it off at the shop....they will do all pulling and pressing


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> let the shop do all the pressing and pulling...


I dropped it off yesterday. Got it back this afternoon. Seems smooth. Just need to reinstall it in the table and take it for a spin.
$40 to pull and press 2 bearings.
Thank You again for suggesting that I have it done by a pro.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Not a big job IF you got the right tools and know what you're doing. Otherwise...............

How's it work?

HJ


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

honesttjohn said:


> Not a big job IF you got the right tools and know what you're doing. Otherwise...............
> 
> How's it work?
> 
> HJ


Works fine now.
I'm with you 100% on having the right tool(s) for whatever job you are doing.
One tricky part of reinstalling the arbor housing is the E Clip that secures it. I saw that there is a special tool for it but I only see it on-line. I did see a you-tube where a pair of needle nose pliers was used to press the e clip on.
Curious as to why an E Clip is used instead of an external retaining ring. Any thoughts?


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

JIMMIEM said:


> Works fine now.
> 
> Curious as to why an E Clip is used instead of an external retaining ring. Any thoughts?


Probably 30 cents cheaper,

HJ


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

I'll go w/ cheaper too..


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> better retaining...


The original E Clip seems to be concave instead of perfectly flat. I bought a replacement from a hardware store which is flat and seems to be a whisker thinner than the original. The picture on the Sears parts sites looks like it might be concave. Does this make sense? Or did I distort it? If it is concave does it matter which direction the concave side faces when it's installed?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

which one do you have???
if the ring is concave/convex it's been torqued...

Note:
metric and SAE rings can be very close in OD/ID but are different thicknesses... 
to thin and not a solid fit doesn't make it...

.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

It's the one in the top photo....the E Ring. The Sears parts diagram says it is 3/4". I found a 3/4" replacement in a hardware store. Should be flat and not torqued? When installed I can spin it with a bit of pressure. Should it be immovable?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JIMMIEM said:


> It's the one in the top photo....the E Ring. The Sears parts diagram says it is 3/4". I found a 3/4" replacement in a hardware store. Should be flat and not torqued? When installed I can spin it with a bit of pressure. Should it be immovable?


should be flat and it will move w/ a bit of pressure...
needle nose is all you need to install and remove..


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> should be flat and it will move w/ a bit of pressure...
> needle nose is all you need to install and remove..


Thank You!!!!!
I guess it's good to go!!!!


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