# Router bit keeps rising



## foothills (Mar 31, 2012)

why does my router bit keep rising when I make a straight on my table?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

foothills said:


> why does my router bit keep rising when I make a straight on my table?


Hi Sal - Welcome to the forum
Just a tad bit more information would be helpful... router brand, bit configuration, shank size, type of wood, bit brand, general condition of everything..


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Spiral bit?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the router forum.

Thank you for joining us, Sal.


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## Putter (Jan 15, 2011)

When you dropped the bit into the router, did you raise it up about 1/8" so that it is not resting metal-on-metal fully seated into the collet? Sometimes, if the bit is fully seated to the bottom of the collet, the collet can't be tightened as much as it should, allowing the bit to rise during the cut.


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## foothills (Mar 31, 2012)

It's a Ryobi router and table, brand new, 1/4" collet, bit is a straight cut 3/4" x 1" deep and I'm cutting down the of 18" redwood 4" x 4".


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## foothills (Mar 31, 2012)

Yes I did


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## foothills (Mar 31, 2012)

My pleasure, I hope to learn a lot here.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

foothills said:


> It's a Ryobi router and table, brand new, 1/4" collet, bit is a straight cut 3/4" x 1" deep and I'm cutting down the of 18" redwood 4" x 4".


Will try to make a couple of guesses here. First, are you trying to do a full one inch deep 3/4" wide cut??? That is waaay to much for a small router and 1/4" shank bit to handle without some kind of issue. 1/4" depth of cut for that setup should be absolute maximum, some would say you're pushing it at that.
Second, Frank had a good point about the bit being seated to deeply in the collet. You want it well into the collet but not bottomed out. Dropping it in and then pulling it back up about 1/8" is a fairly good rule of thumb. 
Third, the obvious, are you sure it was tight? 
Keep us posted


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

The same thing happened to me, but the bit was in an 1/4" adapter. A 1/4 collet fixed it. But, you say you are using a 1/4" collet already. I can only suggest getting it as tight as you can. and, maybe, roughing up the shank with some sand paper.


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## foothills (Mar 31, 2012)

Gene Howe said:


> The same thing happened to me, but the bit was in an 1/4" adapter. A 1/4 collet fixed it. But, you say you are using a 1/4" collet already. I can only suggest getting it as tight as you can. and, maybe, roughing up the shank with some sand paper.


Will do, Thanks.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Sal

B/4 you use the sand paper CLEAN the parts up with some auto parts cleaner (break cleaner is a good one) I don't recall seeing in any manual saying to use sand paper on your router bits..  if not replace the parts with some new ones..they should work right from the get go..the key is to get the bit tight...

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## foothills (Mar 31, 2012)

jschaben said:


> Will try to make a couple of guesses here. First, are you trying to do a full one inch deep 3/4" wide cut??? That is waaay to much for a small router and 1/4" shank bit to handle without some kind of issue. 1/4" depth of cut for that setup should be absolute maximum, some would say you're pushing it at that.
> Second, Frank had a good point about the bit being seated to deeply in the collet. You want it well into the collet but not bottomed out. Dropping it in and then pulling it back up about 1/8" is a fairly good rule of thumb.
> Third, the obvious, are you sure it was tight?
> Keep us posted


Yes I was trying to go the full 1". I did pull it back out of the collet 1/8". I'm new to this stuff, thanks I'll give it a try.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Heat will free most things up..I'm almost sure your router bit was very hot and the heat got transferred right to the thin collet..and the router bit broke free..

Do this quick test, chuck up a 1/2" shank bit that will cut a 1/4" slot in some wood ,set it to go down 1/2" deep ,put the slot in place, the bit will be HOT to the touch but because of the mass of the shank the bit will stay in place,it takes more heat to heat up a 1/2" shank than a 1/4" shank bit.

The bit will trap the chips and the heat and the heat needs to go somewhere..wood is good heat sink but not that good.

You may say but I don't have 1/2" a router bit then just use a 1/2" to 1/4" Adapter Bushings to give the router bit shank more mass..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bushing_ball_bearings.html
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