# box joint jig to build yourself



## snrwo1 (Jul 9, 2010)

Hi I'm new to this forum and also to routing. I'm looking for an easy to build jig to make simple box joint. Nothing fancy, but simple to make. Any hints to pictures/sketchup drawings would be nice.

René


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

G’day René

Welcome to the router forum. 

Thank you for joining us


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I think the easiest jig to make is the Oak Park style spacer jig.









I made a very basic version quickly and it didn't take long to get good results with it.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings and welcome to the router forum. Thank you for joining us, and remember to have fun, build well and above all be safe.


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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

This is my first reply/post in this site. I was looking at the Oak Park spacer and thought excellent, would love that. However after emailing them I got no reply and tend to think they dont post down here to australia. Looking at it further I thought that would be rather simple to make. May I ask, does it work ok,...and does it work for dovetail joints as well. Would you think it would be ok to fit on top of a triton router table,................Regards, Paul


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Welcome, Paul maybe make Your own and sell in Australia becoming a rich famous woodworking millonaire....anyway good luck


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Pauls

OP will not ship to AU but MLCS will, see video at the bottom of the web page or Youtube.

It will show how to use the jig on your router table..
It's true you can make your own but it will not be the same, I did make my own and it did work OK BUT the one they make with the CNC machine is the best.
They can put dovetails in place but not on the ends of stock..
for a dovetail joint.

Shop made spacer box joint jig ▼
If you are into making a lot of firewood 


Multi-Joint Spacing System

Fast Joint Precision Joinery System


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Pauls123 said:


> This is my first reply/post in this site. I was looking at the Oak Park spacer and thought excellent, would love that. However after emailing them I got no reply and tend to think they dont post down here to australia. Looking at it further I thought that would be rather simple to make. May I ask, does it work ok,...and does it work for dovetail joints as well. Would you think it would be ok to fit on top of a triton router table,................Regards, Paul


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## taxque (Jun 30, 2009)

*This is the plan I used for mine*

I have uuse d for @ 3 years with good results. It is not my design or idea. I got it off the web or from another forum I cannot remember which. I can attest that it waorks well, is easy to build and is very accurate.

Greg


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Gary

Looks like my very 1st.jig I made and design for the router table ,about 7 years ago and use for a year and then I saw the OP one and got it...

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taxque said:


> I have uuse d for @ 3 years with good results. It is not my design or idea. I got it off the web or from another forum I cannot remember which. I can attest that it waorks well, is easy to build and is very accurate.
> 
> Greg


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Pauls123 said:


> This is my first reply/post in this site. I was looking at the Oak Park spacer and thought excellent, would love that. However after emailing them I got no reply and tend to think they dont post down here to australia. Looking at it further I thought that would be rather simple to make. May I ask, does it work ok,...and does it work for dovetail joints as well. Would you think it would be ok to fit on top of a triton router table,................Regards, Paul


HI Paul,

Welcome to the forum.

I am surprised you got no reply from Oak Park. I have had nothing but great service from them.:dance3:

You are right. They do not post to Australia.

I have their box joint (spacer fence) jigs and reckon they are great.

Which part of this great southern land do you come from?


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

In addition to Oak Park and MLCS the following sites also sell similar products www.ptreeusa.com and Woodline USA - Router Bits, Woodworking, Woodworking Tools . Each has a different name for them, but you will easily recognize them by the pictures. I have no idea if they ship outside the USA though. You will need to check that yourself when you visit their site.

Charley


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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

Hi Gentlemen, thanks for your prompt replies. I've been on the bowling green all weekend and first chance I got today to check my emails etc. I shall have a very close look at those couple of file attachments that you left there, thanking you again. 

James, how did you get your Oak Park jig if they dont post to australia, maybe you have a good friend in america,.? 

The other day I tried to make my own jig based on the video in the Oak Part site, however the only material I had laying around was 20mm mdf board and it ended up much to thick for my router bit to protude through. I am using a triton router table. So today I drove up to coffs harbour and bought some 9mm mdf board and the best 10mm straight router bit that the tool shop there sold. So tomorrow I shall have another attempt at making another one.

I live at Valla Beach James, a small seaside resort, pop of only 1,000 people, about 40kms south of coffs harbour.


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## locoboy (Sep 7, 2008)

I too have looked at the oak park box joint video and it seems to me that the jig is based around having 3 key dimensions exactly the same.
The raised fence 
The cutter width 
The distance between the cutter and the fence
The only variable is the last dimension and this is 100% dependent upon you affixing it to your router table in exactly the right place, are the holes slotted to allow you to move the fence towards and away from the cutter to get the right spacing?

Thanks
Colin


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Pauls123 said:


> Hi Gentlemen, thanks for your prompt replies. I've been on the bowling green all weekend and first chance I got today to check my emails etc. I shall have a very close look at those couple of file attachments that you left there, thanking you again.
> 
> James, how did you get your Oak Park jig if they dont post to australia, maybe you have a good friend in america,.?
> 
> ...



On the green at Valla Beach - ahhh - heaven on Earth.:yes4:

We have just returned from a weeks holiday at Grafton and Port Macquarie.

Also. we used to reside in Coffs (Park Beach) in a previous occupation...

We have even camped at Valla Beach many years ago..... 30+

Yes, I have many good friends in America - due to this forum.

My first router table was the triton - but I am now a fan of the Oak Park table.

The only problem with getting items from America is the coast of freight.

The freight can be more that the cost of the items......:cray:, even with the great exchange rate at the moment.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Also Paul,

Have a look at the Gifkins dovetail jigs, they make box template as well.

Expensive but well worth it.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

I built one several years ago. It works great! The key is to measure exactly the 8 mm, or 9mm. in Your case. You need a 9 mm. bit, and the 3 measurements must be identical. You can adjust the the jig on the table by a slight tapping.It should work great if that spacing is Identical.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Paul, Oak Park does not ship to Oz but James can tell you how to get a set shipped to you. At about $50 for the 3 jigs I feel they are the best value; I own a set and have been very pleased with them.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

I have the gifkin jug and use it all most every day. I have had it sence it first come on the market. Works every time. I have 2 table's and 2 routers . Set it up and cut's both tales and pin's and you are done tell the next time. Cost $$$'s but worth it my 2 cent's worth


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Mike said:


> Paul, Oak Park does not ship to Oz but James can tell you how to get a set shipped to you. At about $50 for the 3 jigs I feel they are the best value; I own a set and have been very pleased with them.


Hi Mike,

Do you have a paypal account?


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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

yes, I have a PayPal account. I cant send a "pm", till I log up 10 posts....!

Over the last couple of days I am having another attempt at making a jig similar to the OP one. I had a brainwave with the "pusher",......have it all glued up at present, looking forward to tomorrow to test it out. I'll report further on this brainwave if it works. Yes, all I have is the triton gear, but it has allowed me to build every piece of timber furniture in this entire house over the last ten years or so. Plus I do leadlighting also.

So your thinking if I had paypal, I could somehow organise one of these jigs..?

Paul


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I have not used PayPal for many years James.


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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

Hi Mike, and thanks for your message. I shall have a long think about all this and get back to you pronto. Your offer is very kind. I'll have to check out those sites and have a good looksee. I'll send you an email in the next day or so.

Thanks again, Paul


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

locoboy said:


> I too have looked at the oak park box joint video and it seems to me that the jig is based around having 3 key dimensions exactly the same.
> The raised fence
> The cutter width
> The distance between the cutter and the fence
> ...


Hi Colin. No, the holes are not slotted but there is some room for fine adjustment if needed.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

I did not glue mine together! All the measurements will stay the same. Mine is 1/4,by 1/4, by 1/4 . With the 1/4 x1/4 strip in place, it will be a slip fit. It shouldn't move ,hardly. I naven't used mine lately, but I made a floppy disk case, and it is still together by fit alone. no
glue! It will slide apart only if I nudge it to move a part of the case.


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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

Calling James, Hi James, do you have any good places to purchase say dressed 10mm timber in widths of around 70 or 80mm. Just wondering if you know any good contacts down in sydney, I will be down there in a fortnight. Something nice for small boxes that is, not just radiata pine,,................Paul


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Pauls123 said:


> Calling James, Hi James, do you have any good places to purchase say dressed 10mm timber in widths of around 70 or 80mm. Just wondering if you know any good contacts down in sydney, I will be down there in a fortnight. Something nice for small boxes that is, not just radiata pine,,................Paul


Hi Paul,

Depending on where your are going to in Sydney, try Carba-tec in Auburn
CARBA-TEC - Woodworking Tools and Woodworking Machines

Or Trend timbers in Mulgrave

Trend Timbers » Find us

They both have timber in box making sizes.

They are a bit out West , but they are the ones I use.

Not sure about suppliers in other parts of Sydney.


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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

Thanks James, I will be at Ingleburn and Northmead, have a son living at each of those places. That Trend Timbers seems interesting although I cant find prices on their timber. Maybe I can get a chance to get out that way, Paul


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Pauls123 said:


> Thanks James, I will be at Ingleburn and Northmead, have a son living at each of those places. That Trend Timbers seems interesting although I cant find prices on their timber. Maybe I can get a chance to get out that way, Paul



Hi Paul,

If you buy the timber at "box making" size, it will be more expensive.

For example. I have stored away in the spare room a piece of Myrtle 1m x 140mm x 10mm from Cara-tec $15-00 and a piece of Blackwood same size $15.00

If you buy box making kits they will be about $20-$25 from Trend Timbers and Carba-Tec.


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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

Yes it is expensive isnt it. I have to cut across country from northmead to lithgow during my trip (and then on to Broken Hill by train), so I hope to get a chance to call into that place near Windsor


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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

*James, are you there?*

Hi James, I'm now back from my month away, tripping about, and looking to maybe get that Oak Park box joint jig as we discussed before. Do you feel confidant it will fit to a triton router table,..?

My triton router table is not the most recent one, (which was made for the triton finger joints), but the one before that. I currently have a biscuit cutter fitted to it.

Regards, 

Paul, 
Valla Beach NSW


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Paul

Just a butt in post, you may want to check it out with HarrySin he has the yellow Triton router table and the OP box jig and see how he has it mounted..

BUT you don't need to drill any holes in your table, see the video below.

MLCS Woodworking Multi-Joint Spacing System Making a Box Joint - YouTube
MLCS Woodworking Multi-Joint Spacing System Making a Rabbet / Lap Joint - YouTube

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Pauls123 said:


> Hi James, I'm now back from my month away, tripping about, and looking to maybe get that Oak Park box joint jig as we discussed before. Do you feel confidant it will fit to a triton router table,..?
> 
> My triton router table is not the most recent one, (which was made for the triton finger joints), but the one before that. I currently have a biscuit cutter fitted to it.
> 
> ...


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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

*Interesting,...!*

Hi Bob, that is most interesting. That MLCS jig in that video, is that the same as the Oak Park one. And do they come with that 90 degree slide block,...?

Do they come with those brass blocks also,..?

Regards, Paul


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Paul

Your Welcome and yes,yes and yes, "is that the same as the Oak Park one" = almost  see the fence,it's pressed in a blind dado slot and it's a bit longer so it can be clamped to the router normal table unlike the short one by OP ,on most router tables..  don't get me wrong the OP is a good one I have 2 1/3 sets of them..I like the all plastic (ploy.) jig... 


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Pauls123 said:


> Hi Bob, that is most interesting. That MLCS jig in that video, is that the same as the Oak Park one. And do they come with that 90 degree slide block,...?
> 
> Do they come with those brass blocks also,..?
> 
> Regards, Paul


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

MLCS has copied many of the Router Workshop designs and should all work fine. The Oak Park set is about $80 with the brass set up bars and a storage box for them. The MLCS jig is $120 with the bars(no storage for them) and some wood items you can easily make yourself. MLCS does offer free shipping, Oak Park does not. The Oak Park set is still cheaper and as BJ mentioned the polyurethane is 1/4" versus the MDF/laminate measuring 1/2" thick. This makes the MLCS my 2nd choice.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Paul,

Looks like you made a solid functional table - that is all you need.

How did you go on getting supplies of the timber for the boxes?

What box joint jig did you end up with?

The greens are probably a bit soggy at the moment........LOL

Also, a close up of the boxes would be great.

I posted my reply on this thread so as not to hijack the other thread.


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## dchisholm (May 30, 2012)

*Practical Dimension Tolerances?*



locoboy said:


> I too have looked at the oak park box joint video and it seems to me that the jig is based around having 3 key dimensions exactly the same.
> The raised fence
> The cutter width
> The distance between the cutter and the fence
> The only variable is the last dimension and this is 100% dependent upon you affixing it to your router table in exactly the right place . . .


 Yes, a little reflection on High School geometry should convince you that getting those 3 dimensions *EQUAL* is the key to making this jig work. But about 20 minutes into any serious woodworking project you will realize that *NO* dimension is ever *EXACT* - there is always some tolerance and uncertainty. As the old camel herder always said, "Only Allah is perfect.".

So . . . How close to "equal" is "good enough"? (There IS a serious question here - please bear with me.)

The last dimension - spacing from the cutter to the "fence" (indexing rail) is very adjustable. With patience, a little practice, a steady hand, and a calibrated hammer, this dimension can probably be set as close as 0.005" - maybe even 0.001" - from one of the other two dimensions. (Of course, you won't actually measure it, but will gauge it by making a few test cuts.)
The width of the cutter (router bit) is pretty much out of the control of us mere mortals. We buy, e.g., a bit with "half-inch cutting diameter" and take on faith that the manufacturer has his feces amalgamated and his tolerances are well within our personal limits of acceptability. We are, after all, talking about hand-held or hand-guided parts on a machine subject to vibration, less-than-perfect perpendicularity between cutter and table, etc. If we need something to keep us awake at night we might worry about runout and concentricity of our router's collett. For the record . . . the Amana half-inch piloted straight bit on my desk (with estimated 10 hours of active use) measures 0.003" oversize on my micrometer, and an Eagle 3/8" piloted straight bit with little use measures 0.005" undersize.
So here's my question. How wide should the indexing rail be, compared to the cutter width? Obviously, it must be narrower than the width of the slot created by the cutter. From my previous point I'd conclude that this slot is no more than a couple thousandths undersize, to as much as ten thousandths or so oversize. If the indexing rail is too narrow - ten, twenty, or even thirty thousandths less than the slot - there will be inconsistency from one cut to the next, leading to either "slop" or interference (or a combination of both) in the fitted joint. My greatest fear is that over a long finger joint, the tolerances will accumulate and even though a test piece of half a dozen fingers went together with a nice feel, a finger joint of 5 or 10 inches ma not mate at all.
Has anybody investigated the practical tolerances for the indexing rail's width? Is it a real problem, a manageable concern, or a needless worry? If you have one of the Oak Park "Spacer Fence" jigs, or another one that seems to work well for you, have you ever measured the indexing rail's width using a micrometer or dial caliper?

Since the Oak Park jigs seem to be out of production I was going to fabricate a set on my own, using materials on-hand. I have a few scraps of UHMW poly, cut from a (nominal) 3/4" thick sheet and about 1-3/4" inch wide. The thickness is actually about 0.011" undersize, but very consistent - is this already too narrow for a "3/4" spacer fence"? If I rabbet the thickness down to make indexing rails for 1/2" or 3/8" spacer fences, what dimension should I shoot for?

Thanks for your attention!
Dale


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## david cooksey (Jun 3, 2011)

*Box Joint jig*

Rene since you want simple watch this youtube video 
Greene and Greene Style Finger Joints.WMV - YouTube

Dave


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## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

I'm all for building jigs but sometimes it's easier and wiser to just spend the $169 and buy the proper jig.

Like the INCRA I-Box which seems to be the most versatile box joint jig out there. Table Saw and Router Table use with any size blade/cutter from 1/8" - 3/4".

I'm just saying....


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

But at least half of the fun is building the jigs in the first place!


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

david cooksey said:


> Rene since you want simple watch this youtube video
> Greene and Greene Style Finger Joints.WMV - YouTube
> 
> Dave


Thanks for that great link, it's so simple it's hard to believe it works!


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

cagenuts said:


> I'm all for building jigs but sometimes it's easier and wiser to just spend the $169 and buy the proper jig.
> 
> Like the INCRA I-Box which seems to be the most versatile box joint jig out there. Table Saw and Router Table use with any size blade/cutter from 1/8" - 3/4".
> 
> I'm just saying....


Thanks, Hilton... Had not seen that yet! I want one!


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

cagenuts said:


> I'm all for building jigs but sometimes it's easier and wiser to just spend the $169 and buy the proper jig.
> 
> Like the INCRA I-Box which seems to be the most versatile box joint jig out there. Table Saw and Router Table use with any size blade/cutter from 1/8" - 3/4".
> 
> I'm just saying....


It looks like Incra updated the 19 year old plan of this: Micro Adjustable Box Joint Jig


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