# Exterior Doors



## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

I'm looking for suggestions to re finish the 2 front doors in my house. Since I moved here 10 years ago, I never did anything on these doors and although they are in good shape, the finish started to be kind of dull.

Both doors are metal but they have been covered on both sides with some kind of tongue and groove wooden planks about 1/8” thick. It appears that they probably have been stained and varnished.

I don’t want to change the colour neither I want to paint them with an oil or water based paint. I was thinking that some kind of an oil finish may do the trick... Any ideas?

Thank you
Nicolas


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I wish I knew, I could use that information my self. I will look forward to the responces you get.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

The obvious answer so as not to change the colour, would be to,put several coats of clear acrylic varnish over the surface, but I can't say how that will hold up to your harsh winters, this is about the only finish that will retain the original colour though.


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

kolias said:


> I'm looking for suggestions to re finish the 2 front doors in my house. Since I moved here 10 years ago, I never did anything on these doors and although they are in good shape, the finish started to be kind of dull.
> 
> Both doors are metal but they have been covered on both sides with some kind of tongue and groove wooden planks about 1/8” thick. It appears that they probably have been stained and varnished.
> 
> ...


How can you paint over a varnish finish without changing the color ?

Regards

Jerry


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Derek I think that’s the best alternative.

Since the existing varnish is in good shape, I was hoping that an oil finish would remove the dull stage but another coat or two of varnish would do the same. Exterior varnish here last as good, if not better, as any paint.

Jerry, varnish in this parts of the world is a clear glossy or mat finish and does not affect the color below.

Nicolas


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

kolias said:


> I'm looking for suggestions to re finish the 2 front doors in my house. Since I moved here 10 years ago, I never did anything on these doors and although they are in good shape, the finish started to be kind of dull.
> 
> Both doors are metal but they have been covered on both sides with some kind of tongue and groove wooden planks about 1/8” thick. It appears that they probably have been stained and varnished.
> 
> ...


 I have a cedar door. It is in a southerly position which faces our bad weather but no sun. It is protected by a porch so doesn't get direct rain snow or sun on it. about 3 years ago I took it back to bare wood and gave it a good coat of Danish oil as I wanted a flat finish. I hoped I would get a year from it but after 3 years is still looking good. With an oil finish, it's a cheap and quick fix even if it has to be carried out every year


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

I was thinking about Danish oil but was not sure.

Perhaps I will give it a try.

Thank you
Nicolas


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## Barry99 (Feb 10, 2009)

Nicolas,

One suggestion is to remove the door if possible to eliminate runs. You also need to sand to have a smooth finish. I have stained new wood never already stained wood. I like 150 grit to 200 grit. I like 220 between coats. Some wood are stained using coat(s) of stain then clear coat(s), others are stained using all in one stain/clear coat. If the latter, when you sand the finish may come off. If so, you may have to restain. If you restain, since you don't know what type of wood you have, do a small amount first becasue stain is lighter or darker depending on the type of wood.


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

kolias said:


> I was thinking about Danish oil but was not sure.
> 
> Perhaps I will give it a try.
> 
> ...


If the work had a urethane or varnish previously you will have to remove all this as it will prevent the oil penetrating the timber and give a blotchy effect. If you are not happy with this you can always go back to a varnish later.


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

I know what varnish is but,the question states "paint with an oil or water based paint.
How can this be done without changing the color on wood that probably was stained and varnished ?.

Jerry


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

> Both doors are metal but they have been covered on both sides with some kind of tongue and groove wooden planks about 1/8” thick. It appears that they probably have been stained and varnished.


Have I missed something? The doors aren't wood. Sorry to say but, best to repaint them. If you're only talking about the wooden planks, then a clear coat should be all you need. And best to remove them first. Just my thoughts.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Sorry Jerry perhaps a misunderstanding, but I did say “neither paint with an oil or water based paint”

Anyway thank you all for the input

Nicolas


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

kolias; said:


> Sorry Jerry perhaps a misunderstanding, but I did say “neither paint with an oil or water based paint”
> 
> Anyway thank you all for the input
> 
> Nicolas


That is not how I understood it.

Jerry


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

*Oils and doors*



kolias said:


> I was thinking about Danish oil but was not sure.
> 
> Rummer has it Danish oil is just Tung oil with solvents. Regardless, I believe it's good stuff because it penetrates the wood and saturates the top layer with oils, stopping drying and, thus, shrinking of the wood (it will even swell dried wood, somewhat, back to its original stage). It will expand and contract with the wood as humidity and heat change. The only problem might be if you wanted more UV protection, but that may not be an issue because it may have be applied relatively often.
> 
> If I was going with a clear coat of varnish, I'd try to follow the rule: "If it doesn't cost at least fifty to seventy a gallon, it's not going to hold up well."


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

*Tung oil*

To clarify, I was referring to oils in general, both hardening and nonhardening, and, especially tung oil, rather than just Danish oil. Modified tung oil (cooked without oxygen up to 500 degrees) takes it a step further. It doesn't invite mildew like boiled linseed (flax) oil does. Maintenance is a snap, compared to products you have to strip before applying a new coat.

Daly's Stains and such, out of the Seattle area, has some interesting products, as does Waterlox (get your neighbor's wallets out too).


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

Danish oil is an advertising name and is a mixture of solvent(thinner) usually about 70%, oil almost always linseed and varnish almost always polyurethane. While it doesn't matter none of the major brands contain a drop of tung oil.

jerry


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

*Danish Oil.*

This is what Wikepedia says,
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Jump to: navigation, search

Danish oil is a wood finishing oil, made of either Tung oil or Polymerized Linseed oil.

Danish oil is a hard drying oil which provides a tough, water-resistant finish. It can be used as a finish, or as a primer or sealer on bare wood before applying paint or varnish.

When used, Danish oil provides a satin finish and provides coverage of approx 12.5 sq. m/l (600 sq. ft./gallon) and is usually applied over a course of three coats by brush or cloth, leaving around 6-24 hours between coats, depending on the mixture being used and the wood being treated.
AND,
Rustins Danish Oil
The easy wipe-on low lustre finish for all types of wood.
On all interior and exterior wooden surfaces including...doors, dressers, cladding, garden and indoor furniture, window frames, turned woodwork etc
Apply liberally with a clean rag or brush and wipe off the surplus oil after a few minutes for a natural low lustre finish.
Danish Oil is a special formulation developed by Rustins Ltd. based on Tung Oil, also known as Chinese Wood Oil. The oil is extracted from nuts, similar in size to a Brazil nut, growing on species of trees found mainly in China and some areas of South America.
AND,

Description

As one of the leading Danish oil suppliers in the UK, our danish oil is made with nothing but the finest ingredients. The main component is Linseed Oil. This is blended with other high quality resins and oils, such as Tung oil, and is then mixed with a small amount of solvent to improve the drying time, performance and qualities of the danish oil.


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

*Elaboration on elaboration*

Thanks to all for correcting and clarifying what I posted. I posted too fast, with my mind on more than one thing (e.g., I was chewing imaginary bubble gum and imagining myself walking, debating the use of an old can of “Watco Danish Oil Finish” and contemplating an internet search I was doing for pure raw and modified tung oil).

Relying on past research, I had meant to touch more upon tung oil and its seemingly endlessly varying properties as different manufacturers sell their “tung oil,” which I say with caution, since a careful read of many containers reveals companies’ tung oil to be everything from pure to an adulterated product reduced by solvents and, in some instances, void of tung oil altogether. Just like with many “teak oil finishes.”

From research it appears:

1) Danish oil is an often varied brew and could contain tung oil, boiled linseed oil, soy, some other hardening oil, or your neighbor’s old car (okay, maybe not the latter). It may, or may not include varnish.

2)	Danish oil is a marketing name and the product was intended to copy a style of furniture, rather than a finishing procedure.

3)	Teak oil finish, like Danish oil, may or may not contain what its name implies. 

4)	Tung oil could be pure tung oil, tung oil with a solvent, or a “tung oil finish,” the latter which might or might not contain tung oil and which might also contain a varnish. If it does not say 100%, or pure, you’re paying a lot for thinner.

5)	A varnish is, by some, said to be any finish which builds a surface, so is more than just an oil, hardening or otherwise. However, varnishes often contain hardening oils.

6)	You can, based on personal experience, brew your own product at a fraction of the price. There are just a few rules:

a)	The big boys (e.g., Dupont, 3M) did not invent all the great formulas out there. 

b)	If it will mix, it’s fair game for experimentation and production. For example, thinner (e.g., turpentine, naphtha, and mineral spirits (the only real difference is price, flash point, and dry time)), oil and oil based polyurethane will mix.

c)	Boiled linseed oil tends to feed moss and mold, but teak and tung oils do not.

d)	Cooked oils dry, or harden quicker. As well, you can speed drying by thinning and using driers (e.g., Japan dryer).

c)	The more oil you add to the mix, the softer the final finish. However, the softer finish may also contract and expand more with the wood, resulting in less, or no cracking, peeling, flaking or other similar problem.

d)	You can exclude one of the ingredients, according to want, or need. For example, extreme thinning of a polyurethane allows it to penetrate deep into wood, leaving you with what, essentially, might be thought of as a piece of plastic.

e)	The thinners improve penetration, but evaporate off, leaving the oil and anything else you’ve added behind. As such, rather than just a surface coat, which might delaminate, or otherwise deteriorate, you are protecting individual fibers of wood.

f)	Once your experiment, or product is dry, you can final coat with a variation of your mixture, or some other surface coat. What you use, or don’t use, should be determined by need. For example, if your product is going to be subjected to a lot of water, you may want to put more of a surface coat on.


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