# Routing a basic rabbet for a picture frame



## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Hi guys, total newb and idiot here, be gentle.  

I want to make simple frames for modern pictures, just with a rabbet cut into a plain piece of 1x2" or similar to accommodate glass, artwork, matt and backing. See roughly representative drawing below (ignore measurements):










I thought a router mounted to a router table would be the way to go, so I bought a plunge router via the Internet, like an idiot, one that requires you to press a button and pull a switch simultaneously to make it go. No way you can stick that under a table and make it work, right?










Well, can't send it back so now I'm trying to get some hints as to a simple jig I could build to get the job done. This router is only 1100w (1.5HP), so I guess I'd have to rout the rabbet in stages to avoid overheating.

This must be a simple task, but I'm not an experienced router-person and would like some directions. Anyone?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Regarding the switch arrangement, it is normally possible to lock it on using a Velcro strip or more permanently with a cable tie,this also applies to circular saws mounted under tables and use an auxiliary switch. Are you're frames to be routed from one piece or conventionally made from four pieces?


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Just curious, once the button is pressed and the switch pulled, will it stay on if you unplug it? If "big brothers safety system" will stay in the on position, then you can either mount a remote switch, much easier then reaching under the table anyway, or just pull the plug from the wall. (A good habit to get into anyway.. saves fingers when doing bit changes or height adjustment) 

And you are correct, the router is the way to go for making the cuts you describe. Of course, once you get comfortable with the machine, you can then get some different bits and make your picture frames a lot fancier. Your imagination is pretty much the only limit here.

As for cutting the rabbet in stages, this is done mainly to protect the bit from overheating, not the router. A 1.5 hp router has plenty of power for this type of work. 

Brian


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Art

Looks like a nice router But you may not want to mount it in a router table..

This is why... it looks like it can only take on 1/4" shank bits,,,they don't make to many bit bits for the small routers,,,, that said it will work but it will take a bit of rework on your part,, the 1st.thing I would do is open the handle up and by pass the red button switch, you can always rap it with some black elec.tape to hold it in..but do it right from the get go...

Once you get that error fixed I would send off for a speed control device like the link below, it comes with a off and on switch and a VS control so you can slow the router speed down...that will let you make many passes without heating the bit up and the motor up...plus you can turn the router on or off without putting your hands under the table....
Then we come to changing the bit,, the router you have it's hard to switch the bits when it's mounted to the router table..

ROUTER SPEED CONTROL
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060


BUT you would be best off and set the new router to one side and use it for hand router jobs and pickup a router combo set from Sears for 109.oo dollars that will do all you want and more....it's 2 1/4HP and it can take on 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits, and it comes with a VS built in...


I also see you ask about making picture frames , I will jump on that one after this one...

Bj 

================


artframer said:


> Hi guys, total newb and idiot here, be gentle.
> 
> I want to make simple frames for modern pictures, just with a rabbet cut into a plain piece of 1x2" or similar to accommodate glass, artwork, matt and backing. See roughly representative drawing below (ignore measurements):
> 
> ...


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

@Harrysin: I just take a length of plain, rectangular cross-section timber and rout the rabett (that's the plan anyway), then slice it up into 4 sides using a Makita mitre saw.

@BrianS: both switches pop out if not pressed in, there is no click to lock them in. Safety overkill. Cable ties could hold them in, I guess.

@bobj3, the machine is indeed a 1/4" (6-8mm) router. I'm in Australia (left the USA recently), so prices are sky high here and there is no Sears or WalMart. And no Harbor Freight! (Love that shop) The router _does _have speed control built in on a dial. If you dont think I should mount it under a table, what about a jig to cut those rabetts? I presume the bit I should use looks like this:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Art

O NO, one more Australia     , that can't get great deals from the USA.... 

But that bit should work fine  

Hi Art

Below you will see a snapshot of a SKI jig that will do the trick I'm sure.
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/guide-bushings-templates/7480-cool-box-not-mine-7242.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/show-n-tell/6881-harrysin-7072.jpg

You can click on the left side of the post and take a look at the gallery items ,they will show more details of the jig,,, this jig is Tom's and Harry type of jig and it works great and should do just what you want to do WITHOUT a router table..

Hope this helps
If you want more details just ask. Pls.





artframer said:


> @Harrysin: I just take a length of plain, rectangular cross-section timber and rout the rabett, then slice it up into 4 sides using a Makita mitre saw.
> 
> @BrianS: both switches pop out if not pressed in, there is no click to lock them in. Safety overkill. Cable ties could hold them in, I guess.
> 
> @bobj3, the machine is indeed a 1/4" (6-8mm) router. I'm in Australia (left the USA recently), so prices are sky high here and there is no Sears or WalMart. And no Harbor Freight! (Love that shop) The router _does _have speed control built in on a dial. If you dont think I should mount it under a table, what about a jig to cut those rabetts? I presume the bit I should use looks like this:


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

NOT wanting to start a war with the guys who love their ski's.
Let me acknowledge I think *that idea is cool*.

*But just for the sake of a couple of other options.*
I have made dozens of picture frames like you describe and often as not - all I used was a simple rabbet bit. And all I have ever owned was 1/4" shank machines. You can get them I know that will go up to 1/2" in from the side.
All you do is secure your wood so it doesnt move -- set your depth and go.
The bearing on the bit is your guide.
Actually - the old style bits didnt even have a bearing - just a straight pin.
The new ones (much improved) come with one size bit -- and you vary your rabbet by changing the size of the bearing.

If/when I had a router table and had my router already mounted - I would use a straight bit.

ANY way you do it -- you are 100% right about doing it in stages.
About 1/8" depth at a time is the general rule of thumb.

If you have a table saw handy -- Another simple option is to make two passes on a table saw.
One for the width - one for the depth.


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## cbsjoez1935 (Mar 14, 2007)

ArtFramer
I have an old craftsman router with the same switch arrangement you describe on your Bosch. With mine, I find that once the trigger switch turns the machine on, press in that safety button, take your finger away from the button and then release the trigger switch. If you press the trigger switch again, it turns the machine off. Get a separate on/off switch and once you have started the router as described, don't touch the router, just use the outboard safety switch and unplug before changing bits. Caution here---if you take the router out of the table, unplug it first and then depress the trigger swich to turn off the router on/off.

JoeZ


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

AF, There is another possibility, you can by pass the switch button. Doing this will not effect the speed controller or soft start features of the router. It will however void your warranty. Knowing Bosch products as I do, I would not be overly concerned about the warranty. They tend to far surpass the guaranteed work life and with replacement brushes will serve you for many years to come. Please keep a couple things in mind: If you by pass the switch you should label the router so nobody else will try and use it un-aware. While it is ok to use an after the plug switch to control the on/off function you can not use an external speed controller. Doing so will burn up the router and/or controller. And as always, unplug the router whenever you change bits or make adjustments.


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## Doyle (Mar 20, 2007)

Welcome artframer.
No idiots here. We are all getting educated and there are some fine educators willing to help.
Take care
Doyle


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

@drugstore cowboy: thanks for the info. Now, could I simply accomplish the task at hand by clamping the wood in the horizontal position (ie not as in my illustration, but on its side) to another, wider piece of wood on which the router base can rest. The frame moulding and the wide piece of wood would be clamped so that both upper surfaces are flush. On this wider piece of wood I would then attach/clamp a fence of sorts (just another strip of wood, say) to act as a guide for the router. I could then simply move the router along this fence to clear out the waste wood from the frame moulding, first in a few freehand passes, then up against the fence, to form the rabbet. Sound feasible?

@Mike: yes, that would be worth looking into if I actually have to use this machine in a router table setup, but that looks like it may not be necessary...

@cbsjoez1935: unfortunately the Bosch does not work like that. Neither the trigger switch nor the safety switch remain in once released, no matter what sequence you release them.


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## Woodnut65 (Oct 11, 2004)

Hi: Most routers have a switch set up to lock the on-off switch to the on position. If your router has one simply lock the switch to the on position and use the plug to turn it off and on when changing bits etc. Also, your router is a pluge type, it would be to your advantage to remove the springs when using it in a table. othewise you will be fighting them every time you make an adjustment. You are right , it will take a few passes to comple the frames you want. Woodnut65


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Woodnut65, as stated, this router does not allow the locking of the on trigger. There is no way to run the machine without depressing both the trigger and lock (safety) switch. IOW, as soon as you take your finger off the on/off trigger, the safety button pops out.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

artframer said:


> Woodnut65, as stated, this router does not allow the locking of the on trigger. There is no way to run the machine without depressing both the trigger and lock (safety) switch. IOW, as soon as you take your finger off the on/off trigger, the safety button pops out.


I really don't see a problem, as mentioned in my first answer to this question, a Velcro strap or cable tie is all that's needed, the photo shows my saw held on this way and a few years ago I had a Bosch 1/2" VS router and this is how I used it in the table.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Ditto what Harry said about the velcro -- or cable ties -- or the ever popular duct tape for that matter.
Never had occasion to do it on a router -- but I have done it on jig saws and circular saws that I rigged up under tables. Worked fine.

As mentioned by others just be SURE to remove the tape or whatever _before _you plug it in for normal hand use.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just as a side note,,,, I did almost the same thing with a jig saw I mounded unside down in a table top and it was about the same , you had to hold the switch in to get it to work..

But with a little tape I got around that annoyance... and I still use it from time to time to cut out big pattern on the table top..


Bj 

======


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Thanks, guys. 

Nobody here has really given a vote to routing these rabbets just with a jig, as described at top of page, although to my beginner's mind it is possible, and easier than building a routing table.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

artframer said:


> Thanks, guys.
> . . . although to my beginner's mind it is possible, and easier than building a routing table.


First -- don't put yourself down being a beginner --
I sometimes think that the most creative stuff I did -- I did at the beginning when I was making things up as I went along.

*You are 110% right-* 
There's no *need* to build a router table - skis - or jig for that matter - or any other special item to do what you need to do -
All of these things are things mentioned are things people have on hand and/or have found useful and prefer to use.
Your router and an ordinary rabbet bit alone will do it just fine.

IF you WANT to build a jig -- there are lots of ways to go about it -
Here is a 'quick and dirty' sketch of an equally q&d jig you could build out of scrap you probably have around.

The orang is the jig -- 
A base the same thickness as your stock
A piece of 1x across the back for a straightedge.
And two more 1x's - one on each end to hold the front and back pieces of the base together.
Tbe opening between the front and back edges would be the width of your stock.

Like I said-- I just threw this idea together as something I know would work to address your question.
I'm sure others will suggest fancier/prettier ways that also work.

Actually -- and some may be shocked to hear me say it --
But if you want to take time to build it --
This would be an excellent application of the ski idea.

Good luck -- and keep asking questions -
and keep holding our feet to the fire when we don't answer what was asked.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Hey, Cowboy, fantastic post! Thanks for going to the trouble of doing that diagram -- it's almost exactly what I was thinking of. :sold: 

The ski looks like overkill for this simple application. My router really will be a one trick pony; this will be its only job, so the building of a jig is well justified.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Glad I could be of help -- 
It's a variation of a jig I just made to cut dadoes for shelves.

If you DO use that idea -
Be sure you secure both the jig AND your stock before you cut.
Otherwise your stock will go shooting out the end.

I'm sure you would have figured that out for yourself -- but I thought I would mention it before someone else did


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Gotcha!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

A shot of you're bench set-up could produce a variety of simple jigs to solve you're problem.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

I think I can get away with simply clamping the workpiece flush with another, broader piece of wood on which a straight-edge is mounted. I don't see why that would not work, as long as the clamps do not intrude into the bit's path


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

artframer said:


> I think I can get away with simply clamping the workpiece flush with another, broader piece of wood on which a straight-edge is mounted. I don't see why that would not work, as long as the clamps do not intrude into the bit's path


I don't see a thing in the world wrong with that idea.

If you have a wood bench that you don't mind some holes in - you can even tack the base down and then only have to worry about clamping your stock.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Thanks, guys! Great forum. I'll be back with more questions from time to time...


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Last question, fellas..

Given that I am going to rout a wide and shallow groove for the rabbet, what exact unpiloted bit should I buy?

In other words, I am NOT going to use this type of piloted bit:










I AM perhaps going to use this type of bit, but make a series of shallow passes, some freehand, to clear all the wood away:










Just FYI, I want to make the kind of rabbet shown below in depth and width (ignore plank of wood), but possibly not with the bit shown here, since my machine is 1100W (1.4hp) and 1/4 shank, AND I don't want a pilot bearing to run along the outside edge of the clamped workpiece (bearing meets clamp - bang!):










Should I use a straight, fluted (clears wood more quickly?), Amana, Hinge Mortising or other bit, ideally? A simple double fluted straight will work, but can I do the job faster with a wider bit, like an Amana Straight Bit?










.... or a wider straight bit, like this one:










Or will this give me an untidy edge, bec. I am perhaps trying to do too much with a low power router? IOW, does a thin straight bit give neater edges, even if it means more work and more passes to get the job done?



Thanks!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I use a 3/4 carbide straight 2 flute bit with the fence if I am making rebates without a rabetting bit. 

Corey


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Ok, thanks, just ordered two of: 

Freud 04-140 3/4-Inch Diameter by 3/4-Inch Double Flute Straight Router Bit with 1/4-Inch Shank 














Is that what you meant? ?


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Well yes but the cutter itself is only 3/4 inches long and if I understand what you want you are going to cut a rabbet that is pretty deep in 1 1/2 stock with a 1/4 shank I think that one might be a little short. I would want to use a cutter length of 1 inch at least with a good overall length. 

Sorry I just remembered that you are not doing this in a table but with a plunge router and a fixture so I will let one of the plunging pros here advise what they would do. 

Corey


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

No, no, actually I'm cutting a wide but SHALLOW rabbet. Please see attached drawing (not to scale .. straightedge is much further to the left).


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Got yah then I think it should work fine. 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Corey, I know that at times I can be a bit slow on the uptake, but YOU seem to understand the drawing that Artframer posted, but I don't, could you or someone else explain it to me. The bench appears to be vertical and the unsupported router appears to have cut a rebate far wider than the cutter!

http://www.routerforums.com/52522-post30.html


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Harry, see the diagram that Cowboy posted above. 


Corey


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

harrysin said:


> Corey, I know that at times I can be a bit slow on the uptake, but YOU seem to understand the drawing that Artframer posted, but I don't, could you or someone else explain it to me. The bench appears to be vertical and the unsupported router appears to have cut a rebate far wider than the cutter!
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/52522-post30.html


1) Imagine the bench extending a long way to the left (I shortened it for illustration purposes)

2) The bit has to make several passes to get that wide cut, not one pass.

3) The router is shown up against the straightedge, but that is not correct, for if it were up against the straightedge/fence, the bit would be up to the edge of the cut.

hope this helps..


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I think you would be better off building a small jig to cut this piece. Clamping to the edge of the table strikes me as a wobbling problem at best. Consider this idea: Take a board wider than your project by about 3". Add a front and back rail to contain the wood. Cut a piece of wood into wedges and use these to secure your project in the "channel" shaped jig. You can screw the jig down to the bench to secure it, or add a rail to the bottom to clamp in a vise.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Mike, that sounds sensible, but wouldn't the channel have to be exactly as deep as the piece? So the jig would be good for that piece, but the next one, or next batch, which may be 5mm thicker, would stand proud of the rails, not so? I suggested clamps because they allow a dynamic placement of the piece against the jig/bench. Am I wrong?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Your router would ride on the rails, so depth of cut or thickness of the wood is simply an adjustment.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

You've lost me. The rails would be wood, I'm assuming. For them always to work, they need to be thicker than the thickest workpiece, or the router will not contact them, right?


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Art -
I may be wrong - but it sounds like what Mike is describing is pretty much the same as the jig I sketched out earlier --
What he's calling rails -- I called a 2-part base.
Essentially we are both suggesting a jig made of 2 pieces of wood as thick as your stock (or thicker) one to go on _each side_ of your stock to give your router a solid base to ride on. Attach (nail or clamp) these to your table. Attach your straight edge to the back half of the base - that sets the width of your rabbet. Your router would set the depth.
He suggested wedges to hold your stock in place -- I suggested clamping it down -
either way works.

And I agree with his thoughts that you will be happier with both your jig and your stock resting solidly on the _surface_ of the table.
That's the main difference between what we are suggesting and what you sketched.

Art -
Hope that clarifies what we were both saying -
It's one of those things a lot simpler to do than to describe.

Mike -
Hope I haven't misunderstood/misrepresented what you were saying.
SOUNDED like you and I were saying essentially the same thing.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Aha, I see it now. Gee, I'm glad I persisted with this and kept asking questions, because the idea of rails is perfect, and I like the wedges idea too because it allows me to work on smaller lengths and also would not run afoul of the router itself. This is great. I shall build this jig and be able to make frames from simple rectangular-profile lengths of wood forever more. Thank you very much, gentlemen!

(If more people knew how simple this is, it would save them huge amounts of money on picture frame molding, which is often priced absurdly high.)

(Just FYI, I cut the mitres first using a Makita LS1040 compound mitre saw.)


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

just a new diagram, am I getting the idea? (told you I was slow  )


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

artframer said:


> . . .
> (If more people knew how simple this is, it would save them huge amounts of money on picture frame molding, which is often priced absurdly high.)
> 
> (Just FYI, I cut the mitres first using a Makita LS1040 compound mitre saw.)


*By George I think he's got it !!!*

There are _several_ simple ways to do what you are trying to do.

And some not as simple up front - but more versatile later --
As you play around with ideas you will come up with what works best for you.

_Actually_ -- what you sketched out before could have worked --
But like Mike said -- you were inviting trouble if the stock slipped or the router rocked.

I think you will feel _much more comfortable_ with something like what you drew last.

Interesting that you cut the miters first.
I always cut the rabbets and do any other shaping on long pieces of stock and then cut it to length and miter it like would the commercial stuff.
But -- each to his own.

Glad we were able to help.
Don't forget to post some pics of your finished frames they/we luv pictures.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

That makes much more sense but for one thing, there is nothing to stop the cutter from hitting the front rail, me thinks that a template guide is required.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

harrysin said:


> That makes much more sense but for one thing, there is nothing to stop the cutter from hitting the front rail, me thinks that a template guide is required.


I can fix that by making the channel a good deal wider than the workpiece, just need larger wedges/shims.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

harrysin said:


> That makes much more sense but for one thing, there is nothing to stop the cutter from hitting the front rail, me thinks that a template guide is required.


Wondered when that was gonna come out 
KIDDING

Actually Harry - what would prevent the bit from hitting the front rail in Art's design would be he USER -- holding he router firmly against the straightedge at the back.

But for that matter -- when I have made a jig similar to this for my own use -
(see my earlier sketch)
The front 'rail' is _sacrificial_ - it is held tightly against the stock and is *INTENDED* to be cut by the bit.
It serves two purposes -- 
to hold the stock firmly -- 
and to prevent tear out

Also note that I acknowledged at the outset that this would be a good application for your skis.  Mentioned some other options too.
But Art asked specifically for suggestions regarding a Jig.

Art -- don't let us confuse you - 
What we are all sayiing is there are lots of ways to do what you want to do.
Explore and experiment -- you will probably come up with something that's a mixture of these ideas -- or something we haven't even thought of yet.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Art

Do you have a jointer,, this type cut can be done quick and easy on the jointer..

Just asking 

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G1182ZHW/images/2

Bj


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Yeah, that jointer would be perfect, but sadly no, I do not have one and won't be getting one.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Artframer, I'm a little surprised that no one has suggested making the frame first, then routing the rebates as shown. Sure, the corners will be round, but a sharp chisel, or better still a corner chisel will quickly take care of that. No jigs required, only a couple of off-cuts to act as stops, as each side is done just rotate the frame 90deg. The second rebate only requires the side fence and cutter depth to be adjusted. The little Bosch router shown is not much more than 1/2 hp and has no problem with this type of task but not in one cut.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Good point, Harrysin, but the sort of rabbet I want to cut is deep and narrow from the angle you're cutting in the pictures above, not wide and shallow as shown in those pics.

See attached.

Not sure if your method would work on that sort of rabbet??


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

artframer said:


> Good point, Harrysin, but the sort of rabbet I want to cut is deep and narrow from the angle you're cutting in the pictures above, not wide and shallow as shown in those pics.
> 
> See attached.
> 
> Not sure if your method would work on that sort of rabbet??


At last, the penny has dropped, artframer, I really don't think this is an operation for the router, you didn't appear to say if you had a table saw but if you do, do you think this might be the way to go? I just realised that the waste strips look suitable for box making!
I also forgot to say that the guard was removed for photo clarity.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

I used to use a Delta table saw to do this, but the edges were a little ragged compared to what I can achieve with a router ... and ... the table saw shot a piece of wood into my chest, my fault no doubt, but it nearly killed me (nearly stopped my heart -- huge bruise right over my heart that lasted for 4 months), so I've lost my desire to use that tool.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Let me add that if I had a super table saw like that, I would go that way for sure (very quick compared to router). But I sold my crappy Delta in California before I moved back to Australia (see above pic), and that sort of tool is thousands of dollars here. Router MUCH cheaper!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

First off artframer, I'm here in Rockingham,Western Australia and secondly my saw table is far from being a "super saw", it's a Triton circular saw mounted in a Triton work centre, whilst I can't remember the cost it's only in the few hundreds but any saw can be mounted in the table and let's face it, there are suitable saws here for as low as $AUS49.00 and as a matter of interest I just phoned Bunnings for prices and the workcentre is $AUS499.00 ready for mounting a saw, the Triton one being $AUS299.00, but as I said any saw will do but is not as easy to set-up accurately.
Now, as for you're accident, as was pointed out to me when I had a minor "accident" in a Royal Air Force vehicle, "accidents don't happen, they are caused, and in the case of a saw table, the usual cause of wood being flung across the room is the out-feed set smaller than the in-feed. You sound like a relatively young man, too young to spend the rest of you're life without a saw table, as they say when you fall from a horse, get straight back on. An odd lesson from some one who knows is all that is required and you will be turning out frames safely and so fast that the artist won't be able to keep up with you! Happy and safe frame making.

NEVER,EVER STAND IN LINE WITH THE WORK-PIECE, STAND TO ONE SIDE


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

I'm in Perth, and believe me, those sort of saws are over $1000 AFAIK.
http://www.justtools.com.au/category290_1.htm

I don't use Bunnings so that's probably my problem. Only been back a few months from the US.

I'm 50 years old, sorry if I gave the impression of being young.

Yes, i knew all the rules of using table saws well and always stood to one side of the line of work. The ONE goddamn time I moved across the line the thing got me, only time I've ever had blowback too.

BTW I DO have a Dewalt circular saw DW-368-XE:










And I don't think I do enough of this stuff to justify a $500 workcentre... still hoping to get off cheaply with router and jig. Yes? Have not actually done a frame with router yet, but built an easel a year ago with my other US Bosch router and got good results.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Compared to my 73+, you are a youngster! That saw would fit nicely under a cheap home made table. The Triton rise and fall cradle assy. is available as a separate item and a simple fence clamped to the top would cost next to nothing. On such a table, lines drawn parallel to the blade make measurements from blade to fence a straight forward matter. Bear in mind that routing such a large rebate is relatively long winded and produces a great deal of unusable waste. The above comes to you from a guy who specialises in plunge routing but who knows from years of experience when other methods are best for a particular job. As for you're bad saw experience, life threatening accidents can and do happen with routers when ones guard is allowed to lapse for a milli second. I hope that I may have been of some help.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Harry, good point about the waste ... I'm a very keen gardener, so could the waste be used as mulch?

Can you pick out the Triton rise and fall assembly on this page? Do they call it something else on this site?
http://www.justtools.com.au/category381_1.htm

Perhaps this is it?


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Yeah, Harry, thanks but I've looked at the Triton range and I think I'll stick with the routing solution. It's much cheaper that way, more precise too, safer for me (given my history), saves space, and I have more use for the woodshavings than I do for lots of thin strips of wood. But thanks for the suggestion.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

artframer said:


> Yeah, Harry, thanks but I've looked at the Triton range and I think I'll stick with the routing solution. It's much cheaper that way, more precise too, safer for me (given my history), saves space, and I have more use for the woodshavings than I do for lots of thin strips of wood. But thanks for the suggestion.


The only point that I must disagree with you on is when you say that routing this project is more precise, it really isn't in as much as to large degree it relies on YOU"RE precision whereas with the saw, set height and fence and push the wood through all day long and each piece will be identical.
As a matter of interest the Triton height adjusting device when I bought mine was called a Blade Height Winder (WCA390) but appears similar to the WCA400 shown in you're post.
Another thought occurred to me, my original home made saw table relied on the saw's own height adjustment and I used it for a full decade, until I got my first radial arm saw in the mid 70's since which it has been used only for the RA saw. Yes, sawdust mixed with grass clippings and kitchen waste does make good mulch.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

> Another thought occurred to me, my original home made saw table relied on the saw's own height adjustment and I used it for a full decade


Cheap and effective!

I might make that homemade table saw in your last photo. Doesn't look too difficult and would be good for doing long rips. Does anyone know of any online step-by-step instructions for building one of these?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

artframer said:


> Cheap and effective!
> 
> I might make that homemade table saw in your last photo. Doesn't look too difficult and would be good for doing long rips. Does anyone know of any online step-by-step instructions for building one of these?


I'm sure lots of links will be forthcoming, but in the meantime here are a few basic details of mine, bearing in mind that I made it over forty years ago, my only tools were a hand saw, hammer, shifting spanner and electric drill with a jig saw attachment!
I do hope that you will post details and pics. of you're bench and picture frames in due course.
Note: the structure was actually made as a normal work bench and it was a little later that I modified it for a saw, which I think was a Skil.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Thanks for the photos, Harry. That's some sturdy table!

I'll post pics when I've made my own.

What do you need to attach the saw underneath ... can it be easily described?
Here's one solution:
http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/showthread.php?p=569858


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

artframer said:


> Thanks for the photos, Harry. That's some sturdy table!
> 
> I'll post pics when I've made my own.
> 
> ...


Well artframer, I'm stretching my memory now, this pic. might give you the general idea, but you have to use a bit of ingenuity to adapt for you're particular saw. Probably the best way where depth of cut is maximised would be to mount an aluminium plate flush with the top and drill four holes in the base plate to mount saw directly on the Ali. plate, this assumes of course that the saw is dedicated to the table. The rebate for the plate on my table was BR (before router) so was cut out with a hammer and chisel. Using ones ingenuity to solve a problem can be very rewarding and I have a feeling that you are going to prove that.


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## artframer (Aug 24, 2007)

Thanks, Harry, I've saved that photo to my hard drive. I'll use it for inspiration when I make my table. Amazing what you can do with a bit of planning and ingenuity, as you say. 

Thanks for the input!


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