# Anyone make a T-Track with a keyhole bit?



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I'm thinking about trying to make a T-Track in a 3/4" plywood bench top with a keyhole bit. Has anyone tried this, and if so, how did it work out?


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Chris Curl said:


> I'm thinking about trying to make a T-Track in a 3/4" plywood bench top with a keyhole bit. Has anyone tried this, and if so, how did it work out?


Hi Chris - I haven't done it but don't see why it wouldn't work. Only thing I can think of is the larger width may not be as wide as you would like which would mean multiple passes and the slot also correspondingly wider. The "lip" would be fixed by the bit configuration.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey Chris; this is obviously a fairly common application as T-slot hardware is available. Here's Lee Valley's latest on-line catalogue supplement.
See pg.11 item F
Lee Valley Tools - Online Catalog
It actually makes sense from the point of consideration of structural integrity, although installation could be a pain in some cases(?)...


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Dan, I realize you can buy T-Track. That is not the question. The question is if anytone has made a T-Track in wood with their router and a keyhole router bit, and if so, how did it work out.


----------



## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I recently used my keyhole bit to put a t slot in a piece of oak. It worked fine.
I have yet to test it's capabilities though.
I'm not sure that doing it in plywood is such a good idea given it's layered structure, there might be a chance that any hardware that's in the slot could catch and individual layer and cause it to lift.
One other tip, run a straight bit first to clear the way, then run the keyhole bit.


----------



## LUnger (Dec 28, 2011)

I recently snagged the Rockler T Slot bit when it was on sale. I've used it to slot both 3/4" Oak Plywood and MDF ... both are holding up fine so far ... I guess alot depends on how much clamping pressure you need. The Rockler bit requires that you first cut a 3/8" slot. Once you have the 3/8" slot, the Rockler bit cuts a slot 5/8" wide by 1/8" deep slot for the head of the bolt. As John indicated, I think that much will depend on the profile of your key hole bit, and I second Gavin's suggestion to cut a slot with the straight bit first and then use the key hole bit to cut the slot for the head of the bolt ... most likely will require a pass down each side.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Hey Chris; this is obviously a fairly common application as T-slot hardware is available. Here's Lee Valley's latest on-line catalogue supplement.
> See pg.11 item F
> Lee Valley Tools - Online Catalog
> It actually makes sense from the point of consideration of structural integrity, although installation could be a pain in some cases(?)...


Sorry Dan. I double checked the page you referred to and saw that you were talking about what I was asking about. Sorry again.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Chris

I do it all the time but have Not had good luck with plywood (junk wood) the slots look good but don't stand up well and you want the item you put in the slot to move free and easy and the plywood likes to break off easy in the slot and jam up the slot.

===


Chris Curl said:


> I'm thinking about trying to make a T-Track in a 3/4" plywood bench top with a keyhole bit. Has anyone tried this, and if so, how did it work out?


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

No problem, Chris. 
I actually missed the point that you were talking about using the slot _without_ track hardware...bad assumption on my part. I do like Lee Valley's flanged extrusion idea , however (the link I posted previously). That would eliminate Bobj3's really valid concern about T slots.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Chris
> 
> I do it all the time but have Not had good luck with plywood (junk wood) the slots look good but don't stand up well and you want the item you put in the slot to move free and easy and the plywood likes to break off easy in the slot and jam up the slot.
> 
> ===


bob, do you use the "keyhole" bit, or do you use the bit specifically made for making the t-tracks?

also, what kind of wood do you use? how about pine?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

I use the key hole bit most of the time, I put them in MDF most of the time but Pine is fine


===


Chris Curl said:


> bob, do you use the "keyhole" bit, or do you use the bit specifically made for making the t-tracks?
> 
> also, what kind of wood do you use? how about pine?


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

thanks for the quick response. one other question ... what size bolt do you use?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

The norm is 5/16" but I also use 1/4" as well, I like to use carr.bolts the norm.

you can see many snapshots of them in my Uploads..I use them all over the shop.
note if you take a peek at my uploads start with the Last page it's quicker to find things (page 1099)
==


Chris Curl said:


> thanks for the quick response. one other question ... what size bolt do you use?


----------



## brocken (Feb 11, 2012)

I used a generic Key hole bit from E-bay and the results were not that great, the wings were not large enough vs the center slot, there isn't hardly any wood holding the t-bolt(toilet flange bolt) and when the bolt turns sideways it is free to come out of the slot which makes it a pain each time I adjust my cross cut fence on my miter gauge for the table saw. I just received the Rockler t-track bit but haven't had the time to try it out, it looks like a much better bit than the keyhole one.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

bob: you have some great jigs! to me, this looks like the sort of thing to which you are referring ... am i right? as you know, i'm new at this, so ... how do you use the keyhole bit for this? the lip on yours is much larger than that which the keyhole bit would make.










brocken, i was also thinking that the narrowness of the lip could be a problem.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Chris 
Thanks

I use the key hole bit for Blind type slots the norm, the slot in you picture I use two bits to get them in place the norm..and with carr. bolts the norm..

like below

==





Chris Curl said:


> bob: you have some great jigs! to me, this looks like the sort of thing to which you are referring ... am i right? as you know, i'm new at this, so ... how do you use the keyhole bit for this? the lip on yours is much larger than that which the keyhole bit would make.
> 
> 
> 
> brocken, i was also thinking that the narrowness of the lip could be a problem.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Bob, thanks. The slot looks wider than that on my keyhole bit, can I assume you did something like made the slot first with a straight bit, and then used the keyhole bit on each side individually?

In that pic, it looks like it would hold a hex bolt better than a carriage bolt. By that I mean that it looks like a carriage bolt would spin in the slot because of the width of the slot in relation to the lip and the size of the square shoulder part on the carriage bolt.

Sorry about all the questions; as much as I'd rather be in the garage, I cannot experiment with it during the day because I have a desk job.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

No need to make a pass with a straight bit the key hole is made to make it in one pass I will sometimes move it over a little bit to get the slot wider for the bolt diam. to slide free in the slot.
The one slot is just right for a hex head bolt the norm but I do like to use toggle head screws and just grind the head flat on two sides of the head for a bigger foot print you could say and they have a very low profile on the head..and they are always full threaded so can cut them off at any point I need , I buy 4" long ones the norm so I always have the right size so to speak. 1/4" and 5/16" ..

===



Chris Curl said:


> Bob, thanks. The slot looks wider than that on my keyhole bit, can I assume you did something like made the slot first with a straight bit, and then used the keyhole bit on each side individually?
> 
> In that pic, it looks like it would hold a hex bolt better than a carriage bolt. By that I mean that it looks like a carriage bolt would spin in the slot because of the width of the slot in relation to the lip and the size of the square shoulder part on the carriage bolt.
> 
> Sorry about all the questions; as much as I'd rather be in the garage, I cannot experiment with it during the day because I have a desk job.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

The bit is 25/64 wide on the wider part, which is 3/64ths smaller than the 7/16 head on a 1/4-20 bolt. The narrower part is 3/16, 1/16 narrower than a 1/4-20.

So, I think if I make an initial 1/4" groove with a straight bit, then pass the keyhole bit through it twice making it a tad wider the 2nd time. Then I should end up with something just a tad wider then a 1/4-20 in both dimensions, which should be good to hold down a 1/4-20 bolt and keep it from turning.

Sound like a plan?

*EDIT* I was posting this while Bob was replying, I'll do what Bob reccommends.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Just a butt in post. Here is a viable way of putting reliable slots in plywood. Downside is the bit required is a bit on the pricey side
Cabinet Hardware - T-Track Extrusion 4'


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

pricey and me ... they don't mesh.

that system reminds me of the wall roganization system i am doing:

AW Extra - Hyper-Organize Your Shop - Shop - American Woodworker


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Chris Curl said:


> pricey and me ... they don't mesh.
> 
> that system reminds me of the wall roganization system i am doing:
> 
> AW Extra - Hyper-Organize Your Shop - Shop - American Woodworker


YIKES - Hyper-organized is an accurate description all right:no:


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Update ... I tried making one last night ... 

Pretty ghetto fence and featherboard/holddown, but it worked:

















not the cleanest cut, but for my first time using a router, i'm not too disappointed

































the push shoe is pretty ghetto too, but it works ...


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Hi, this is interesting! I hope you don’t mind if jump in with the same question. I was about to start a new thread when I saw this. 

I wonder if I can use this method on a new Table Saw Sled that I just built. I just realized after the fact that I want a T-slot on the side of my fence for stop blocks. Could I just cut a slot in on a Poplar Fence with the T-slot router bit?


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I don't see why not. Or, of you have access tot he back of the fence, you could do this:


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Chris Curl said:


> I don't see why not. Or, of you have access tot he back of the fence, you could do this:


Thanks Chris. I could do that to the fence but I’m worried that I would jeopardize the integrity of the fence by cutting a slot all the way through. Originally I planned to just use clamps but then I decided to raise the height of the fence at the saw cut so that it would remain strong if I were to cut something at full height. Now my clamp will not reach all the way over. Anyway I just ordered a T-Slot bit and I’m going to give it a try.


----------



## skytop (May 3, 2012)

I have been following this thread. The aluminum T tracks or making your own T channel with a T bit may not provide the necessary strength and durability needed.

I use a much more robust T track which utilizes a 3/8" bolt as opposed to the wimpy 1/4-20 or fragile 5/16 type. It is called "heavy duty T track" and you rout out a 5/8" x 7/8" channel for the track. Quite economical as well. They have needed accessories such as star knobs and bolts, etc.
The full service source I use is Peachtree Woodworking Supply. Just search engine it and the URL will come up. [I am new to this board and cannot post a URL yet.]


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

skytop said:


> I have been following this thread. The aluminum T tracks or making your own T channel with a T bit may not provide the necessary strength and durability needed.
> 
> I use a much more robust T track which utilizes a 3/8" bolt as opposed to the wimpy 1/4-20 or fragile 5/16 type. It is called "heavy duty T track" and you rout out a 5/8" x 7/8" channel for the track. Quite economical as well. They have needed accessories such as star knobs and bolts, etc.
> The full service source I use is Peachtree Woodworking Supply. Just search engine it and the URL will come up. [I am new to this board and cannot post a URL yet.]


Hi Skytop. 
Welcome and Thanks for the Peachtree info. I just took a look and came across the Dual Combo Track which I find very interesting. I can see a lot of possibilities with that stuff.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

sky, the bolts for the toggle bolts that hold the french cleats on my walls are 1/4-20. those toggle bolts are rated to hold 900 pounds.

also, i have 1/4-20 bolts holding together my shelving system which is 6' tall and 20' long and holds more stuff than you could imagine.

i use 1/4-20 bolts for pretty much everything. being stocked up on them means i always have a bolt that will do the job. i can cut them to length as needed.

i cannot imagine a jig that needs bolts that are stronger than a 1/4-20


----------



## skytop (May 3, 2012)

Hi Chris: I would think the rating would depend on the species of the wood or what you were relying on. Also, your 900# is in which direction and is it dead or dynamic or impact load?
I used my T tracks for a reloading bench. My tracks are used to secure VERY firmly two large reloading presses and a Wilton cast iron vise. I need the tracks to remain stable at all times and resist flexure. All kinds of large sudden torsional and radial loads are generated with these two items which is why the extra large and strong T tracks are needed. The tracks are screwed every 8" o.c. and glued in place as well. My bench top is 1 7/8" maple butcher block. I want to be certain I don't have to repair or rebuild this table ;-)


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

sky, 

i am referring to toggle bolts holding 2x4 cleats to a cinderblock wall. i am not sure which direction they use when they rate them. in my case, the cleats hold up an organization system that includes all kinds holders, including shelves.

it seems to me your needs for the t-track you are describing are much more demanding than the "typical" jig needs would be.


----------

