# How to connect table top to legs?



## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Okay, I'm making the top for my table this weekend, but I need some help from all you knowledgeable people out there please.

Please see my other post on the tripod-style wood table I've been building for reference, but I've included a picture of the legs here so you get the idea. I have asked this question in that thread also, so please forgive the duplication - I only just thought of asking the question in this sub-board.

What's going to be the best way to join the legs to the top so that it's able to be taken off when we move?
I'm not going to be able to get the table out any doors when fully assembled, so I'll need to take the top off to move house (which will happen at the end of this year of beginning of next).

I was thinking originally of just using screws through the legs into the top, or a bolt into a "t nut", and obviously I don't want to have anything go through from the top of the table.
I'm also trying to avoid an unsightly looking set of holes in the legs if I can help it, and a cap or plug won't do it if I can't remove them easily.

My wife suggested hollowing out a part at the top of the legs, and mounting a block on the top that also has an "L" shape to it that could lock in place by rotating the entire top, that way it's held and can't tip easily, but although I can envisage what she suggests, I'm not sure that's the best option either (or that I could pull it off).

Does anyone have any suggestions on how best to do this please?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

''S'' clips...
















Tabletop Mounting Clamps - Lee Valley Tools

figure ''8'' clips









Figure Eight Connectors - Lee Valley Tools

elongate a hole in the legs for a screw and allowing for wood movement...
I think the figure eights will be your all around best bet...

..


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If I'm building a frame with aprons as Stick showed I only use the clips he linked to. A solid table top has to move independently of the frame it sits on IF the frame is very solid. On the tripod you made it's possible that the frame might be able to move enough with the seasonal expansion you can expect that it won't cause the top to crack. 

I would probably use screws to attach it but as insurance to prevent any cracking I might do it this way. #8 screws are about 3/16" in diameter so I would use a round head screw about that size with either a 3/16 or 1/4" washer and under that washer I would use a 1/4 to 5/16" washer. That would allow plenty enough seasonal movement and avoid the chance of splitting the top. I would bore a hole in the uprights so that I could hide all this in the bore hole. That might be the tricky part now is drilling those holes at close to 90*.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Steve - I like the figure 8 fasteners and have used them often - I posted in your other thread here:

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/130474-finally-got-table-underway-4.html#post1888074

The fasteners swivel to allow for any wood movement


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Thank you kind sirs, I appreciate the ideas.
As yet I don't know which way to go, but I'll be sure to update everyone.

Chuck, what are the typical inner diameters of those washers you mention? I have a feeling this is important if I go this way to allow for movement, and I have no idea if there are standard sizes.

Stick, I see you cast a vote for the "8" fasteners as well. I did see the "S" (or "Z") fasteners, but because I'm not having an apron, I don't know that I can make those work.

Vince, I've asked you in the other thread, do I need more than one 8 per leg, and how long are they?


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Steve - see my response in the other thread.


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Steve,
Figure eight fasteners are also available at Rockler. You would use a forstner bit to set into the leg, which keeps it from getting too wobbly.Desk Top Fasteners, 8-Pack | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

think of the end of the leg as the apron...


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## Terry Q (Mar 2, 2017)

I don’t think wood movement will be an issue, the design of the legs won’t constrain movement of the tabletop.

If you want a solid connection, then a screw or bolt through the leg and hidden in some creative way would be the way to go. If you just want to keep the top from moving around the leg and give a relatively solid connection, then a dowel will work. You can glue the dowel into one side or the other, leave it loose.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I think on that tripod base that the alignment of the grain of the top will be important. Expansion occurs across the grain, not much on the long direction of grain. I'd want to center so that the long grain sits on two legs, that way only the third leg will have to have a loose fit using any of the methods shown. The joint where the three legs meet is the most vulnerable part of the table, so the top is also going to add strength. I'm assuming that you're using a glued up panel for the top. If its ply, expansion will not be much of a problem.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

1fizgig said:


> Chuck, what are the typical inner diameters of those washers you mention? I have a feeling this is important if I go this way to allow for movement, and I have no idea if there are standard sizes.[/QUOTE
> 
> *Not really. They are stamped out of sheet metal and they vary a bit. You'd want the hole small enough so that the head of the screw is fully supported.*
> 
> ...


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

If it wouldn't be noticeable, you could cut a circle of thinner ply, just big enough to span the legs. Screw that to the tops of the legs. Screw the ply into the table top in a couple of places, in a line, straight down the grain. Or you could use oversize holes with washers to allow for expansion.


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## Geevesmac (Jul 15, 2014)

Definitely Z clips. Carbatec sell the Veritas which are a more pronounced bend; Timbecon sell the more rounded ones, which I use, and like.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Thanks Greg, but*



Geevesmac said:


> Definitely Z clips. Carbatec sell the Veritas which are a more pronounced bend; Timbecon sell the more rounded ones, which I use, and like.


Have you seen the legs I'm working with?
Z clips don't lend themselves to a table with no apron very well, and because of the kind of legs I'm using (see http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/130474-finally-got-table-underway.html) I don't think they'd work.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

1fizgig said:


> Z clips don't lend themselves to a table with no apron very well, and because of the kind of legs I'm using I don't think they'd work.


I know they will..


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Okay, I'll bite*



Stick486 said:


> I know they will..


How would it work? I know you've seen the pictures of the legs, where would you put the z clips and how?


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

I think I can possibly see it Stick, I guess I'm not sure how to cut the slide lines in the legs because of the angle.
I anticipate the table top wouldn't move once they're all in place as each leg would prevent the top sliding in that direction.

Probably need 2 per leg? On the back faces?


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

And because the top is kiln-dried laminate, and most of it will be sealed, I would have thought it would be more stable?

Sorry, I'm just not experienced in this aspect and really getting confused.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

most of the battle is seeing things from different angles/ways...
slit the side of the leg w/ a Dremel type tool...


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Interesting idea*



TenGees said:


> If it wouldn't be noticeable, you could cut a circle of thinner ply, just big enough to span the legs. Screw that to the tops of the legs. Screw the ply into the table top in a couple of places, in a line, straight down the grain. Or you could use oversize holes with washers to allow for expansion.


Thanks Paul.
I considered this once I saw what you'd written, but I'm really trying to keep visible differences to a minimum.
I even considered recessing said plywood, but I have a difficulty there in that I'd need to move the benchtop joiners deeper, and I just can't do that.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

1/8th or ¼'' ply rabbeted into than inside lip of the legs would never be seen...


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Grain and fixings*



DesertRatTom said:


> I think on that tripod base that the alignment of the grain of the top will be important. Expansion occurs across the grain, not much on the long direction of grain. I'd want to center so that the long grain sits on two legs, that way only the third leg will have to have a loose fit using any of the methods shown. The joint where the three legs meet is the most vulnerable part of the table, so the top is also going to add strength. I'm assuming that you're using a glued up panel for the top. If its ply, expansion will not be much of a problem.


Tom, I'm using a panel with laminated pieces of solid wood, so I'm not sure but I think they'll all have long grain sitting on them.
As the legs are laminated (2-ply) also, I expect them to be fairly stable. I'm wrapping my head around what you're saying about the long grain on the two legs.

Am I right in thinking there should be a small slot across the grain to allow for movement? Just checking my understanding of wood movement across the grain is right.


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