# Under table Triton TRA001 adjustments



## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

I had a Kreg insert which had the hole for winding on the left. That arrangement made it easy to get to the height locking lever and the quick height adjuster wheel but the on/off switch was a little awkward.

I have now upgraded to a Woodpecker plate and fence (brilliant BTW) and the whole situation is reversed. The winding hole is on the right making the accessing the switch easier but the height lock lever more awkward but it is manageable. 

So my questions .....

1) Leave the lock lever alone and trust the router to keep its height
2) Flip the plate so it faces the back (Woodpecker logo facing the fence) then the lock lever would be more accessible at the front
3) Any Woodpecker & Triton owners who have done that or have you left it as in the Picture. Do you just accept under table adjustments on the Triton are awkward but OK

I guess the switch is the most important as this has to be off to mount bits.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Run your router cord to the outside of your table and plug it into an on and off switch. Then just leave the router switch on all the time. Don't forget to unplug the router cord from the switch when changing bits. This is what I do.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Don, the Triton switch has to be off to change bits. Annoying but it is a good built in safety device. I also run a cord to an outside NVR switch. So I'm sure you don't have a recent Triton router.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

barri said:


> Don, the Triton switch has to be off to change bits. Annoying but it is a good built in safety device. I also run a cord to an outside NVR switch. So I'm sure you don't have a recent Triton router.


No John I have a Porter Cable 895. My PC has a button that goes into the spindle and locks it so you can change bits with one wrench and The switch has to be off to work it. My router will come up far enough so I use two wrenches to change bits. You could also buy a Muscle Chuck for your router. You could also defeat the switch. I would never trust a switch. I would unplug the router every time. You have to unplug everything else so you need to stay in the habit of unplugging your tools.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

I just realised (and feel stupid) that when I do edge profiling the winding hole is covered by the fence then I have to adjust height under the table so maybe the Woodpecker insert is in the wrong way and should be flipped. It just seems strange to have the logo facing the wrong way. 

I'd still love to hear from anyone who has the same combination.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

You'll want to lock the height in. I have the Woodpecker plate with the Triton TRA001 and had to drill my own height adjustment hole, so I was able to arrange it so the switch and lock are easily accessable. I do have a Rockler metal dust collection cabinet, which is a tight fit. I'm thinking about removing it and putting in a larger door for easier access to the chamber where the router lives. The best thing about the Woodpecker plate is the twist lock insert, and the extra thickness to support the weight without sagging. I got converted by watching Marc Sommerfeld videos since he has that plate as well as a Triton in the table.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Tom, I just flipped the plate so that instead of the pre-drilled winder hole being at 2 o clock it is now at 8 o clock. The quick adjust wheel and the lock lever are now are lot more accessible and the switch while not in a perfect spot is still acceptable. This is the way it should be.

While I don't care where the woodpecker logo is, it is now buried under the fence when doing edge work. It's their fault that their logo or winder hole are in the wrong place and out of sight. I saw on a festool forum the pre drilled hole is at 5 o clock and the logo is still buried under the fence. So maybe all Triton holes on woodpecker plates are not the same.

Apart from all this I agree with you Tom. The plate is top quality and their superfence is wonderful. Very happy I upgraded


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## Geevesmac (Jul 15, 2014)

I have the Woodpecker plate, for the Triton TRA001, in an Incra table frame. I built the dust box under the router, but I put a door each side, so I can access the switch and speed control on the left, and lock on the right. Works a treat.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Greg, is your woodpecker logo facing towards you or away? Also is your winding hole at 8 o clock?


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

DesertRatTom said:


> You'll want to lock the height in. I have the Woodpecker plate with the Triton TRA001 and had to drill my own height adjustment hole, so I was able to arrange it so the switch and lock are easily accessable. I do have a Rockler metal dust collection cabinet, which is a tight fit. I'm thinking about removing it and putting in a larger door for easier access to the chamber where the router lives. The best thing about the Woodpecker plate is the twist lock insert, and the extra thickness to support the weight without sagging. I got converted by watching Marc Sommerfeld videos since he has that plate as well as a Triton in the table.


 @DesertRatTom

Good information, and just at the right time. I have a P-C 690 in a Bench Dog lift in my Rockler table which has worked very well, also with the Rockler sheet metal box. I'm considering trying the Sommerfeld tongue and groove system for building cabinets (at least for attaching the face frames, I think the grooves for the corner block is overkill, and I like my methoug of installing the backs) and a little worried that the P-C may be a little underpowered for that type of service. I haven't had any problems with the present set-up, but I'm not a heavy duty user of the router table as I cut rabbets and so forth either with a hand held router (the Betterly base does a great job of dust collection, thanks to Mike in Detroit for the recommendation) or with a dado set in the TS, depending on part size. The Rockler insert for the Triton takes the same hole as the Bench Dog and the Triton is supposed to fit in the metal box - do you consider the "fit" of the Triton in the sheet metal box to be a problem?

I like the Bench Dog lift, nice and solid, has been trouble free. The cast iron top is rigid, and came with (or maybe I bought extra) an insert that accepts P-C bushings - I don't use the guide bushings but rather the set with different holes in the center so I can close the hole up around the bit to minimize the clearance. The Bench Dog has a height lock - just a little thumb knob on the height adjustment hat positively locks the height and must be loosened and then tightened after making height adjustments, but it's readily available through the open door. I'd like to keep using the set-up I have, don't want to find out though that I need the heavier router by burning up this one.

That's the height adjustment at the bottom of the photo - it came with a little dial that fits around the socket that can be zeroed each time and used to give a pretty good indication of how much the bit is raised or lowered - one complete revolution raises/lowers the spindle by 1/8"


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## katabrontes (Nov 12, 2014)

I disabled the interlock on the Triton router switch so that it did not have to be turned off to raise and lock the spindle. This was a bit fiddly to do but not difficult, you have to dis-assemble the switch and remove the small interlock part and then put it back together. I suppose it would void the warranty and it is important to have an alternative external switch (I use a no volt cut-out switch) or, as advised by Hawkeye10, always unplug the main feed to the table before making any adjustments to the router (good advice).


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Mike, after having a few "wake up calls" I do like that safety feature of the Tritons. In any one session I don't change bits very often so I can live with reaching underneath for the sake of safety. The two things that I need easy access are the quick lift wheel and the lock lever. I've got that now. I still wonder why a quality company like Woodpecker would make that mistake with the logo. From an aesthetic point of view I did like the red contrasting logo on a dull grey aluminium plate. My wife did too. Now its buried


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@tomp913 The Rockler steel box is OK, but a tight fit. You have to get the big Triton in at a bit of an angle to have access to the height lock AND the switch. Using the Sommerfeld matched bits, you don't have to reset height within the set.

The problem for me is that tight fit makes it easy to scrape the back of my hand against the poorly finished edge, and after chemo, the back of my hand is very celicate and tears open easily. I have a Rockler table, but have line it with ply, so I can replace the Rockler box with a much larger one so I don't have to bleed every few uses. You may find it acceptable. I like having the air flow regulation on the containment box. Hate to have spent the money for the metal box then not use it, but that's life.


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## Geevesmac (Jul 15, 2014)

John, Logo facing me (bottom left), with the winder at 2 o'clock. Locking lever is then at the rear of the router.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Thanks Greg. OK so you plate is the same as mine. I thought I was going mad! As I said above, using 2 o'clock, you can't use the winder when doing edge profiling as the fence (my woodpecker fence) covers that hole which means you have to use the micro adjust or quick adjust under the table. No big deal but personally I like using the winder, hence why I flipped that hole to 8 o'clock. I find it interesting that on the Kreg pre-drilled plate, the logo is facing you when the winder hole is at 8 o'clock. Opposite to Woodpecker. I think that's the way it should be. Then there's no restriction on the winder. I've heard Woodpecker's old phenolic plates have the same orientation as Kreg's, so why did they change?

Go figure!!!!!


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

@DesertRatTom

I have the same Rockler box, and I agree the sharp edges are a problem. The height lock thumb screw is a top left and I would scrape the back of my hand (right-handed BTW) if I wasn't careful and paying attention. One day I was standing to the right of the opening for some reason and reached in with my left hand, kind of palm up and from the bottom up, and found that it was easy to get in there without hitting my hand. Another option I was looking at wad putting some trim on the edges of the opening Outwater Plastics - 2016 Master Catalog - page A-19 might have to shim the hinge out but I think that the magnet would still hold the door closed OK.

I like my router, lift combo with the box, just wondering if the Sommerfeld tongue and rabbets bits would be too much for the 1-3/4 HP P-C. It's not as if I build more than a couple at a time any more, if I did I'd be looking at dusting off the shaper and getting a set of bits for it. Maybe I'll give Marc a call - I bought one of his original, all aluminum non-adjustable Kreg Jigs probably 30 years or more ago at the Woodworking Show in Baltimore. I also wanted to ask about building a cabinet with an overhanging face frame - it's all well to talk about building one long cabinet, but those days may be behind me now - so I'm thinking that I could use his gauge, put a shim equal to the overhang underneath it and use that to set the rabbet bit to cut the stiles.

I took a look at a couple of demo videos on the Triton router, and it does seem that you have to be under there a lot when changing bits - I have my P-C plugged into a switch on the outside of the table so the router stays on all the time and operates off that switch - although I'm not constantly changing bits so it may not be that much of a problem.

Thanks for the input,

Tom


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

My Woodpecker plate didn't come pre drilled for the Triton crank, so I oriented the router, then drilled the hole, cleaned it up with a fine rat tail file. The twist lock insert ring is the reason I bought the plate. I found a pdf on disabling the safety switch, but I don't really use it enough to feel OK voiding the guarantee on the Triton. I was going to wrap a little tape over the edge of the Rockler box, but keep forgetting to do so. It's kind of a tight fit in there. I will be giving up some storage space to the sides of the table. I had to route the Rockler top to enlarge and slightly deepen the rabbit for the Woodpecker plate. It is a nice looking item with that red logo.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

It is a nice looking item with that red logo.[/QUOTE said:


> Wish I could see it and have the winder at 2 o'clock. :crying:


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

DesertRatTom said:


> You'll want to lock the height in. I have the Woodpecker plate with the Triton TRA001 and had to drill my own height adjustment hole, so I was able to arrange it so the switch and lock are easily accessable. I do have a Rockler metal dust collection cabinet, which is a tight fit. I'm thinking about removing it and putting in a larger door for easier access to the chamber where the router lives. The best thing about the Woodpecker plate is the twist lock insert, and the extra thickness to support the weight without sagging. I got converted by watching Marc Sommerfeld videos since he has that plate as well as a Triton in the table.



When I last checked, Marc Sommerfeld's table had a Triton Router in it, but his aluminum router table top had no insert plate at all. I've been considering his table and Triton Router combination and I like the idea, but I'll probably install hinges and a gas spring to lift the table for making adjustments. I think a height where one hand can reach the bit area above the table top while the other hand is adjusting the router below the table top and locking/unlocking the router height would be the ideal up position. The gas spring would make it easy to lift the top and hold it up. Doing away with the plate and the lift eliminates possible movement of the plate and possible errors related to it, so I'm liking the idea. It would also eliminate a seam in the table top as well, so no chance of the work catching in it. Maybe I'll be doing this some time in the Spring when my router table version IV begins to materialize. I sold my 3 hp router, so I'm ready to buy if I decide that the big Triton is right for me.

Charley


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

barri said:


> Wish I could see it and have the winder at 2 o'clock. :crying:


Woops.. I meant 8 o'clock


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

Geevesmac said:


> I have the Woodpecker plate, for the Triton TRA001, in an Incra table frame. I built the dust box under the router, but I put a door each side, so I can access the switch and speed control on the left, and lock on the right. Works a treat.



Hi Greg, it would be very useful to se a photo of ythe door you fitted to the dustbox. I am putting together a table top, with dustbox of my own design, but realise that I will still need to access the switch each time, ,which is silly for a table router. However, if you can show a photo I would appreciate it.
Malcolm


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

Badger2 said:


> Hi Greg, it would be very useful to se a photo of ythe door you fitted to the dustbox. I am putting together a table top, with dustbox of my own design, but realise that I will still need to access the switch each time, ,which is silly for a table router. However, if you can show a photo I would appreciate it.
> Malcolm


I use the built in dust collection port on my Triton, hooked to a vacuum. The dc on the router is outstanding, (better than any router I have used, including Festool) and if I were building a router table I wouldn't bother with a dust box. Combined with an above table port, I don't think the dc can be beat. I have a cast iron table and can't use a plate, so the router is clamped to the underside. I rotated the router so the height adjustment hole is at 6 o'clock, the height lock is on the right, and the switch is within easy reach. It is connected to an external switch, and when I change bits, it is easy to reach the interlock on the router. If I were to change anything I would rotate the router so that the height adjustment was in the 8 o'clock position, this would allow a shallower bend to the dc hose and the switch would be a little easier to reach. But that would just be a "nice to have" and not worth the effort now.


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

Thanks Bob.
I that a 4" hose connected to a reducer and then to the plastic dust collector on the router, or have you changed something or used a special collector/hose ?

If its that good Imay not need the dust box

Malcolm


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

Badger2 said:


> Thanks Bob.
> I that a 4" hose connected to a reducer and then to the plastic dust collector on the router, or have you changed something or used a special collector/hose ?
> 
> If its that good Imay not need the dust box
> ...


I use 2 separate systems for my dc, I have a 2hp dc for the large tools, table saw, jointer, etc.. and a ducted central vac for my miter saw, router table, sanders, and shop clean up. The central vac uses 1.5" duct. I bought this kit from Rockler and used the flexible hose to hook up my tools. Dust Right® Universal Small Port Hose Kit | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware. I have a narrow shop and wanted to eliminate the shop vac always being in my way and the central vac eliminated that problem. The pictures show the duct for the central vac. A shop vac would work just fine for the router.


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

Thanks Bob, that sure looks like a nice cosy shop you have and well laid out. I have the end of our double garage, but when the bigger tools/machines are put neatly away, we still get two cars in.

Thanks for the update on dust. I have a number of possibilities, I use an Axminster 750 Numatic for the BS400 Bandsaw, but have a Festool CTM26 that is very handy and gets use for the sanding, worktop etc as well as another shop vac I have fitted under the two sanding machines.

When I get the router up and running, I can assess what is needed and easily use either then bigger 750, or the Festool and even both if needed. I also have a Microclean TF810 hanging directly above the worktop and that filters the finer air dust. The old 'Henry' that is about 40+ years old, still does a good general job but usually kept for the cars.

Still thinking of things that I probably will not need, but like the boy scouts, I like to be prepared even though I'm 76 and only took up carpentry 4 years ago.
Malcolm


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

I know the feeling, I did the "two car shuffle" for years. I have the Festool Mini and the only reason it is not used in the shop, is I don't have too. I would not hesitate to put in on the router, I think you are all set.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Thanks for the info on the Triton built-in DC port. That would make it easy to handle the issue by simply removing the box and using a reducer to connect the 4 inch to the smaller Triton port. Cool!


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## Geevesmac (Jul 15, 2014)

G'day Malcolm. Apologies for delay. Been off travelling.
As you will see in the photos, I have an external switch, for convenience so that I don't have to go under the table each time, but more so for safety. Works a treat. The only time I use the switch on the Triton is when I change bits.
You will see I have a flexible hose running from the Triton dust shroud, to a Tee where it joins the fence line, where I connect my DC. For power, I use the supply from the DC, so the DC switches on with the router, which is very handy. I also wired the safety switch to an external point on the table frame, so I can use it to power a DC without the on/off capability if needed. The Triton is then powered from a wall socket.
The photos show the two doors. The left door accesses the Triton switch, and the right, the locking lever.
It all works very well.
Cheers
Greg
PS, Sorry, can't work out how to get 2 photos right way up !


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

Hi Greg, thanks for the photo and information. It certainly looks very efficient.

It's interesting that you have the extraction at the end of the fence which is something I was thinking about but had not seen before. With the position of my table sliding in under a worktop, it would be better from a height point of view to have mine that way.

I bought an NVR switch and will use that just for the router for safety and link the extraction from my Festool CTL26, ot even the Trad 750 drum I have. I am still working on the fence at present but will post more photos when further on.

Have a great day.
Malcolm


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## Geevesmac (Jul 15, 2014)

Good stuff. Sounds like you are getting it right. My fence is the Incra Super fence, and it is very efficient. Cheers


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

These shots show how I collect ALL the dust now followed by how I used to then the external switch, leaving the Triton TRA001 permanent on.


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

Nice fence Harry.
I managed to get my TRA001 in the table today and its all working OK. First time of starting it up. The fence is still being glued up but well on the way. Photos soon.

Malcolm


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

Geevesmac said:


> G'day Malcolm. Apologies for delay. Been off travelling.
> As you will see in the photos, I have an external switch, for convenience so that I don't have to go under the table each time, but more so for safety. Works a treat. The only time I use the switch on the Triton is when I change bits.
> You will see I have a flexible hose running from the Triton dust shroud, to a Tee where it joins the fence line, where I connect my DC. For power, I use the supply from the DC, so the DC switches on with the router, which is very handy. I also wired the safety switch to an external point on the table frame, so I can use it to power a DC without the on/off capability if needed. The Triton is then powered from a wall socket.
> The photos show the two doors. The left door accesses the Triton switch, and the right, the locking lever.
> ...


Nice setup you have there Geevesmac. What's your table top made of?


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## Geevesmac (Jul 15, 2014)

G'day Randy.
The table top is 32 mm MDF, finished both sides with melamine. It is well supported by the Incra stand, and stays flat.
Cheers, Greg.


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

Thanks. It looks so nice I thought it was a solid surface counter top material.


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