# raised panel router bits



## Dave2 (Mar 29, 2007)

Let me see if I can explain this. I bought a cove raise panel bit a while back and when I use it I barely raise the bit and cut all four sides and then I raise the bit some more and cut all four sides and I continue this process until I get my desired depth. Is this the correct way to do it or do I set it at the desired depth of cut and then make a first pass on all four sides with the fence far enough out that only the end of the cutting tip is exposed, then move the fence to expose more of the cutting edge and do all four sides again and continue this process until all four sides are at the desired distance? The reason I am bringing this up is I bought my first raise panel bit with a back cutter and it looks to me that if you start out like I did with the cove bit above you will take the maximum bite with the back cutter. The next time you raise the bit it will be cutting nothing. Will this make the edge to thin to fit in the rails and styles?


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

Dave2,

Welcome to the group. With non-backcutter bits either method is okay. For bits with backcutters you are correct that with the BC in place you will remove the material that would be the tongue if you sneak up on the cut by raising the bit. Better to leave the bit at the final height and use the fence to limit the cut.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave2
Charles is right on 

But I have found one more way to make raise panels  (SAFE)

It can be just a bit hairy to make panels,the bits are big and it's alot of steel spining at 8,ooo/10,ooo rpm's not to talk about the noise they make. 

Most sq. corner panels are easy but when it come to the 
Cathedral Door,OGEE CURVE,ROUNDED CURVE STYLE panels the fence can't come in to play it must be done free hand so to speak,but this safe way will work for both types.

Most of the Raise Panel Bits (with cut under bit) are in two parts with a bearing in the center of the two parts, If you remove the Small bearing and replace it with one that's bigger you can make the panels in two passes,one with the big bearing and one with the small bearing.

All you need to do is but the big bearing on the bit,zero the fence out make your 1st.pass on the panels then put the small bearing back on the bit and make the 2nd pass on the panels.
To make a Cathedral Door type door do all the sides and the bottom on the panel then remove the fence and do the top on the panel, then put the small bearing back on the bit and make your 2nd pass on the panels.
You can use a starter pin for this type of job but a block of plywood works best for the type of job ( 1/2 fence so to speak ) it's clamped to the table top right in front of the bit and just to one side of the bit.

Here's a link to the bearings that work great for this type job.

D - BEARINGS (for different depth cuts)

#12111 1-1/8" OD x 5/16" ID 
#12112 1-1/4" OD x 5/16" ID 
#12113 1-3/8" OD x 5/16" ID 
#12114 1-5/8" OD x 5/16" ID
Just a NOTE,,,they can also be used on most slot cutters and some T & G sets 

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katbt7.htm


Cathedral Door,OGEE CURVE,ROUNDED CURVE STYLE
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/cathedr.html

Bj 

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Dave2 said:


> Let me see if I can explain this. I bought a cove raise panel bit a while back and when I use it I barely raise the bit and cut all four sides and then I raise the bit some more and cut all four sides and I continue this process until I get my desired depth. Is this the correct way to do it or do I set it at the desired depth of cut and then make a first pass on all four sides with the fence far enough out that only the end of the cutting tip is exposed, then move the fence to expose more of the cutting edge and do all four sides again and continue this process until all four sides are at the desired distance? The reason I am bringing this up is I bought my first raise panel bit with a back cutter and it looks to me that if you start out like I did with the cove bit above you will take the maximum bite with the back cutter. The next time you raise the bit it will be cutting nothing. Will this make the edge to thin to fit in the rails and styles?


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## Dave2 (Mar 29, 2007)

*Thanks*

I do apprecaite the feedback. Maybe I would do better removing the backcutter?





Charles M said:


> Dave2,
> 
> Welcome to the group. With non-backcutter bits either method is okay. For bits with backcutters you are correct that with the BC in place you will remove the material that would be the tongue if you sneak up on the cut by raising the bit. Better to leave the bit at the final height and use the fence to limit the cut.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Dave Don't do that ,buy a new bit without the back cutter,the bit you have was made to run the both cutters in place.
OR JUST move the fence forward like Charles said 

OR use this type of bit ▼ Vertical Raised Panel Bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/raisvert.html

Without back cutter ▼
http://cgi.ebay.com/1pc-1-2-SH-3-Di...emZ130094104244QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

Bj


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the Router Forums Dave2. Glad to see you start out by asking questions. And with a name like "DAVE" you can't be all bad. LOL


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

Dave2,

Freud Raised Panel Bits W/BC don't have a ball bearing but instead have a solid pilot between the cutters (this is a patented design which allows you to cut full 1-1/2" reveal which the competitors' bits can't do). To make arched raised panels with ours in multiple passes we do recommend removing the backcutter and lowering the bit for the first pas(es) then re-installing it for the last pass. For straight runs you can use the fence to limit the cut.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Charles, thank you for giving the directions on this subject! To avoid confusion I deleted my previous posting.


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