# stripped the threads out on my router base



## Mike Gager (Jan 14, 2009)

while trying to find the right length of bolts to mount my router to the table i accidentally stripped the threads out on one of the holes. i figure i can drill and tap some new threads in that hole or go ahead and do all the holes. what type threads should i tap? should i go bigger? its a dewalt 618 router. its supposed to have the M4 metric threads but 8-32 seemed to thread just fine. only reason i messed it up is i cut one of the bolts shorter on my bench grinder and i guess i threaded it in wrong. i was thinking of going to 10-24 threads but wanted to see what you guys think


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Hello Mike, sorry that that happened. Drilling and taping is about the easiest. make sure that you have enough material to hold it. You can also get metric tap and go that route.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Mike

Just my 2 cents 

10-24 will be just fine  if fact it's better than what is was..but do all the holes...no just one..Then pickup some Allen bolts from ACE hardware and replace them all..the Allen screws will have a smaller OD on the head size so you should not need to rework the plate.. ( counter sink holes)


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Mike Gager said:


> while trying to find the right length of bolts to mount my router to the table i accidentally stripped the threads out on one of the holes. i figure i can drill and tap some new threads in that hole or go ahead and do all the holes. what type threads should i tap? should i go bigger? its a dewalt 618 router. its supposed to have the M4 metric threads but 8-32 seemed to thread just fine. only reason i messed it up is i cut one of the bolts shorter on my bench grinder and i guess i threaded it in wrong. i was thinking of going to 10-24 threads but wanted to see what you guys think


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

I will not go 10-24 because that is a course type thread.

You need a fine type thread either metric or imperial.

Fine type threads do not get loose easily and that's why equipment subject to vibration have fine type threads.

Nicolas


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nicolas

I will need to disagree with you on that one,, most of the router bases are Alum.the norm...and the course thread will not strip and easy...the threads are just cut a little bit deeper ...and you have more meat to hold on to..so to say.. 

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kolias said:


> I will not go 10-24 because that is a course type thread.
> 
> You need a fine type thread either metric or imperial.
> 
> ...


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

Mike Gager said:


> while trying to find the right length of bolts to mount my router to the table i accidentally stripped the threads out on one of the holes. i figure i can drill and tap some new threads in that hole or go ahead and do all the holes. what type threads should i tap? should i go bigger? its a dewalt 618 router. its supposed to have the M4 metric threads but 8-32 seemed to thread just fine. only reason i messed it up is i cut one of the bolts shorter on my bench grinder and i guess i threaded it in wrong. i was thinking of going to 10-24 threads but wanted to see what you guys think


Don't change the thread size or form. Go to your engineer and get him to insert a Helicoil. They are a stainless thread insert which after tapping out the stripped hole with a special tap the insert is threaded in, restoring the thread to original size for very small cost


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Murray

65.00 USA dollars to put a screw back in place, he could almost buy a new base for that.. 

M4 metric Helicoil repair kit ,I have many Heli-Coil kits and they are not cheap.. 

Amazon.com: M4 X .70 Time-Sert Thread Repair Kit: Your Store

http://www.amazon.com/Heli-Coil-Thr...2O8U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1238537399&sr=1-2


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

Either re-thread it to 10-24, 10-32 or metric. Spending a few dollars for new screws is cheap compared to having a repair shop do it for you.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Another thing I did not know bobj

As always, you are right on

Nicolas


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## brownfoot (Oct 12, 2006)

you should be able to just tap the 8-32 stripped hole with a 10-32 tap, without drilling
what threads that are left in the hole will help to "lead" the tap as it has the same number of threads per inch
btw, a #10 screw is only 0.026" larger than a #8

the most common size in router bases (which all are die cast aluminum) is 10-32


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

I did some checking, and a hrlicoil and a tap for the helicoil was less than $5.00 IF YOU TAP AND INSTALL THE HELICOIL YOURSELF. I have done a few projects on my own tools, and it is not that expensive. You can also check the local machine shop, and see what the bit and insert cost locally


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

If you're going for a prefab kit you can pay $60 + but if have the drill bit and you're just looking for a single use tap and a couple coils maybe $10 depending on where you buy it.

There's 2 good reasons for a good kit you have an auto repair shop or you skroo up a lot messing around with your stuff. In which case you're better off investing in a good Tap & Die set.

BTW, there's an Ace Super set (just like my old kit) on EBay with a $10 bid right now


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI Murray
> 
> 65.00 USA dollars to put a screw back in place, he could almost buy a new base for that..
> 
> ...


Hi Bob As an engineer who regularly used Helicoils or Recoils of most sizes both metric and imperial would charge no more than $10 to $20 to insert a coil unless major problems were found. Im not talking of the customer buying the kit just bringing the job in for repair


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Why mess with a heli-coil? You're still threading into aluminum. Just rethread to a larger size screw. The money spent is still the same, with or without a heli-coil.


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> Why mess with a heli-coil? You're still threading into aluminum. Just rethread to a larger size screw. The money spent is still the same, with or without a heli-coil.


inserting a Helicoil makes a stronger thread. Firstly it has a larger thread depth on the outside of the coil then being stainless steel is much harder and much less likely to strip again. They are regularly used in aircraft where safety is paramount.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Technically, you're still pulling against aluminum. I've seen heli-coils get pulled out.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Murray

Most small machine shops in the states have a setup fee the norm about 25.oo dollars or more ...   it's not a hard job at all but putting it in line with the other orders well and setting it up is not free the norm..  like they say time in money....I had a min. charge of 50.oo per. order that's to say if I turned on the drill press it's 50.oo, thank you 




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Lemuzz said:


> Hi Bob As an engineer who regularly used Helicoils or Recoils of most sizes both metric and imperial would charge no more than $10 to $20 to insert a coil unless major problems were found. Im not talking of the customer buying the kit just bringing the job in for repair


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> Technically, you're still pulling against aluminum. I've seen heli-coils get pulled out.


yes but here we are dealing with a stripped thread anyway. There are a lot of advantages keeping with the original size.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Lemuzz said:


> yes but here we are dealing with a stripped thread anyway. There are a lot of advantages keeping with the original size.


:agree:


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> Technically, you're still pulling against aluminum. I've seen heli-coils get pulled out.


Yes sometimes Helicoils do unwind and pull out Due mostly a short coil or the bolt picking up the coil and instead of threading into the coil chases the coil as it screws in. Getting off subject but still remaining with thread inserts, Keyserts are another form of insert which won't unwind. They are an insert fitted to a tapped hole. Say a 1/4 ww stripped thread. Re tap to 3/8ww screw in the insert and knock the 4 steel pins radially inserted on the insert into the parent metal. No need for specialised taps or tools to insert. :yes4::yes4:


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## jubey (Apr 4, 2009)

*jubenville*



Mike Gager said:


> while trying to find the right length of bolts to mount my router to the table i accidentally stripped the threads out on one of the holes. i figure i can drill and tap some new threads in that hole or go ahead and do all the holes. what type threads should i tap? should i go bigger? its a dewalt 618 router. its supposed to have the M4 metric threads but 8-32 seemed to thread just fine. only reason i messed it up is i cut one of the bolts shorter on my bench grinder and i guess i threaded it in wrong. i was thinking of going to 10-24 threads but wanted to see what you guys think


You can easilly fix that problem by buying the type of insert.You drill &tap the right size of thread to acomodate the insertt. Don't forget to put a couple of drops of Loc-Tite onthe outside of the insert's thread. Gord


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## Mike Gager (Jan 14, 2009)

wow didnt think this post would get so many replies, i guess i should update

went to lowes and bought a tap set for $25

got home and figured id see how bad the threads were on the 8-32 before drilling

started the tap and as i turned the tap the handle would slip and not turn the tap. WTF. so i made sure it was as tight as possible and tried again and again. the end of the tap that fits in the handle is square but the end of the handle where the tap goes is round. does anyone know how this is supposed to work??

eventually i got it turned far enough to rethread the 8-32 threads where the bolt would go through again

i decided to count my blessings and stop there. i figure this base is a permanent table fixture no real need to strengthen the hold for now

took the (in my opinion, defective) tap set back to lowes and got my money back


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

The tap handle is usually a t-handle with a chuck on the business end. You would get one that closely fits your tap. They can be bought as one tap at a good hardware store. Turn the Chuck tight as you would a drill chuck. Because it is square, it only needs to be hand tight. Turn the tap a little at a time and back it out often. clean the lose chips out of the hole and the die and insert it again. do this until you are through


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

At this point, take it back, and go to a hardware store that has a good salesman who knows about threading. He will sell you a tap, and a die, that will fit the hole. I have several dies, that i have bought separately, so i know for sure that they can be sold that way. Please send me a rrply as i would like to know how you turned out. THANK YOU Howard


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

The "T" handle needs to be tight on the tap. A real good set will have 2 "T" handles and another style of handle that works the best. This actually clamps on the square end of the tap. The real good sets get kinda pricey.

A note... not all of the threaded holes goes all the way through the base. Some go so deep an stop.


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## Mike Gager (Jan 14, 2009)

yeah like i said i took it back already after fixing the threads

heres the set i bought from lowes (although i cant find it online there)

NEW KOBALT 13-PC TAP & DRILL SET TITANIUM COATED W CASE - eBay (item 120390998826 end time Apr-02-09 10:14:59 PDT)


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

Mike Gager said:


> wow didnt think this post would get so many replies, i guess i should update
> 
> went to lowes and bought a tap set for $25
> 
> ...


Maybe the tap wrench is tooooo large for the tap. I have had this problem with very small taps in a set. Better quality tap wrenches may not have this problem. In alloy I have used a cordless drill chuck to hold the tap but have to be careful and only used HSS taps


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## Trimax (Apr 9, 2009)

my 2Cent worth
i have used thread inserts for alot of projects
they come in diffrent styles
u can have them send u a sample of what u need i think they send 2
but there reasonabley cheap and easy to use, they are self tapping
Maryland Metrics: Thread inserts for metal, wood, plastic by E-Z LOK
just anoter idea


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## Trimax (Apr 9, 2009)

use this one instead of the metric one sorry
Thread Inserts for Metal, Wood and Plastic by E-ZLOK
bty the silver ones on the right are what i use for wood
i bought a 100 for under 20.00 my be a bit more with the way prices are going


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI guys

JUst my 2 cents

Making a very easy repair job to hard 

Just tap it out and your done, with some luck just run the same size tap in the hole and the threads will hold..plus by using Allen screws that are a 3A fit will hold in the Alum.just that much better.. most screws are a 2A fit. 

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