# Adapt 1/4" router collet to 1/2" bit



## brian129 (Oct 1, 2009)

Thanks to Administrator and all who have contributed to setting up this site. Pretty in depth.

I am planning on cutting block aluminum with my router. Have spoken with tooling rep about which aluminum cutting bit to buy. For my work I will need to use a bit with a 1/2" shank. 

I went to look at my Skill hand router. It has a 1/4" collet. Model number is 1823. How do I adapt it to a bit with a 1/2" shank?

Thanks Brian.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

brian129 said:


> Thanks to Administrator and all who have contributed to setting up this site. Pretty in depth.
> 
> I am planning on cutting block aluminum with my router. Have spoken with tooling rep about which aluminum cutting bit to buy. For my work I will need to use a bit with a 1/2" shank.
> 
> ...


Hey Brian, welcome to our little corner of the 'net.

As for your question, you can't safely go from a 1/4" up to a 1/2" collet unless your router was designed for it. Look in your manual, or contact SKill and check with them. At best, you will have to purchase another collet. At worst, a new router that will accept 1/2" shank bits.


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## brian129 (Oct 1, 2009)

Thanks Brian. Since a 1/2" adapter didn't come with the router I was afraid it might not be possible...


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

brian129 said:


> Thanks to Administrator and all who have contributed to setting up this site. Pretty in depth.
> 
> I am planning on cutting block aluminum with my router. Have spoken with tooling rep about which aluminum cutting bit to buy. For my work I will need to use a bit with a 1/2" shank.
> 
> ...


Hi Brian, welcome to the forum. 
I dunno, are you sure the model number is 1823? I did a quick search and the Skil 1810,1815, and 1820 just take 1/4" colletts. The Skil 1825 takes both 1/4 and 1/2" but I couldn't find the 1823 quickly. You may be in luck yet, 1823 is right between them. I would contact Skil. Try to get ahold of someone that seems interested. So often you will get a NO just because it's the easy answer. 
Good Luck


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the RouterForums Brian.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Not enough power, shaft size or the router is not sturdy enough to drive a 1/2" shank cutter, why not use a 1/4" shank cutter and do small, reduced cuts that build up to the correct size of groove?


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings Brian and welcome to the router forum.


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

one way to tell is, remove the collet, can you fit a 1/2" bit in the shaft hole? if not then you can't. the shaft hole has to be much bigger than 1/2" to accomodate the 1/2" collet.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi brian129

If it's one time thing why not rent a router that can take on the 1/2" shank bit..for 10.oo to 15.oo bucks you can get the job done..  then return it after your done ...

I can tell you how to make adapter ,if you have a lathe but just rent tool you need.. you will better off in the long run..



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brian129 said:


> Thanks to Administrator and all who have contributed to setting up this site. Pretty in depth.
> 
> I am planning on cutting block aluminum with my router. Have spoken with tooling rep about which aluminum cutting bit to buy. For my work I will need to use a bit with a 1/2" shank.
> 
> ...


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi brian129
> 
> If it's one time thing why not rent a router that can take on the 1/2" shank bit..for 10.oo to 15.oo bucks you can get the job done..  then return it after your done ...
> 
> ...


 i can tell you if you mean a 1/4" shaft that goes into the router with a 1/2" collet on the other end, an adapter like that would be VERY dangerous.. if a 1/2" bit fits into the routers armature, then a 1/2" collet could be made, it would have to be hardened though..


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi martin

Why do you think it would be dangerous ?

It's just a adapter, no more no less..just about the same as a adapter for your socket set,up or down in drive size..it's true that the socket adapter is not made to spin at 20,000 rpm's but the same can be said about the Love-Joy adapter ,that's all it is a adapter..
transfer of power to a new drive size..
i.e. take at look at a ShopSmith it's done all the time with many machine..
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radios said:


> i can tell you if you mean a 1/4" shaft that goes into the router with a 1/2" collet on the other end, an adapter like that would be VERY dangerous.. if a 1/2" bit fits into the routers armature, then a 1/2" collet could be made, it would have to be hardened though..


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi martin
> 
> Why do you think it would be dangerous ?
> 
> ...


 it has to do with leverage, you'd be carrying the force of a 5/8 or so shaft(large enough to hold a 1/2" collet and bit) a few inches long with a collet and bit by a 1/4" shaft. any non concentricity or pressure applied to the bit would snap off the 1/4" shaft and the bit and adapter would go flying around and do major damage. it's like when you put a pipe on a wrench to get more force, the longer the pipe is, the more force you get, and in this case, putting a large amount of force on a 1/4" shaft is unsafe.. it's bad enough when a bit slips out at 20,000 rpm, but one with an adapter on it also would be even more dangerous, the kinetic energy would be increased by the weight of the adapter. contrast this with the "love-joy" adapter, which is supported on BOTH ends..


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi martin

It's true, it's not for everyone,,and I don't recommend it for the normal user,, I have used it a time or two and no problems at all.. I would not use it on a bit over 1 1/2' diam. just to much mass..

Made from (see below) ,it's very hard steel, I wipe out two cutting bits making the adapter.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_collet.html

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*O whatever*

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radios said:


> it has to do with leverage, you'd be carrying the force of a 5/8 or so shaft(large enough to hold a 1/2" collet and bit) a few inches long with a collet and bit by a 1/4" shaft. any non concentricity or pressure applied to the bit would snap off the 1/4" shaft and the bit and adapter would go flying around and do major damage. it's like when you put a pipe on a wrench to get more force, the longer the pipe is, the more force you get, and in this case, putting a large amount of force on a 1/4" shaft is unsafe.. it's bad enough when a bit slips out at 20,000 rpm, but one with an adapter on it also would be even more dangerous, the kinetic energy would be increased by the weight of the adapter. contrast this with the "love-joy" adapter, which is supported on BOTH ends..


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

if it ever broke it would break at the 1/4" section with the rest flying around at 20,000 rpm.. for myself, i'd much rather get an armature from a router that accepts a 1/2" bit and adapt the router bearing cups in the router to accept the larger armature.(the bearings would be larger). IF i needed to go that route.. the armature for my craftsman router that accepts 1/2" or 1/4" bits is only $25 from sears.. of course, the new armature needs to be about the same length and width inside the router.


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## brian129 (Oct 1, 2009)

Thanks John.


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## brian129 (Oct 1, 2009)

Thanks Mike.


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## brian129 (Oct 1, 2009)

Thanks Jigs.


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## brian129 (Oct 1, 2009)

Thanks Bob. I think this was is probably the best advice for my situation.

Brian



QUOTE=bobj3;137533]Hi brian129

If it's one time thing why not rent a router that can take on the 1/2" shank bit..for 10.oo to 15.oo bucks you can get the job done..  then return it after your done ...

I can tell you how to make adapter ,if you have a lathe but just rent tool you need.. you will better off in the long run..



=======[/QUOTE]


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi martin
> 
> It's true, it's not for everyone,,and I don't recommend it for the normal user,, I have used it a time or two and no problems at all.. I would not use it on a bit over 1 1/2' diam. just to much mass..
> 
> ...


 when i had my lathe, i made a toolpost grinder for hard steel. i see what you made now, if it only screwed onto the armature, it would be much sturdier.


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## cococolin (Feb 6, 2013)

radios said:


> when i had my lathe, i made a toolpost grinder for hard steel. i see what you made now, if it only screwed onto the armature, it would be much sturdier.


HI, cococolin here. I have the opposite problem, I've three routers the newest is half inch and all my bits (about 35 - 40) are quarter inch. How can I get them to fit the half inch machine. My first two machine's are Craftsman and Bosch but the new machine has no name that I can see : I know, I know it's strange that a new machine has no name but I bought it in a closing down sale and beggars can't be choosers. Any help would be very welcome. Sorry if this post should be in a new topic.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Colin,

The quickest way is to get a 1/4" reducer sleeve to fit your 1/2" router collet.

Many routers outside the US use this system.

MLCS Woodworking Adaptor Bushings and Ball Bearing Guides


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## cococolin (Feb 6, 2013)

Thank you James ! It seems obvious now but I just didn't think,in my defense I didn't know that such items were made and also I'm getting old and my thinking is not what it was ! Anyway thanks again, I


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## billg71 (Mar 25, 2011)

brian129 said:


> Thanks to Administrator and all who have contributed to setting up this site. Pretty in depth.
> 
> I am planning on cutting block aluminum with my router. Have spoken with tooling rep about which aluminum cutting bit to buy. For my work I will need to use a bit with a 1/2" shank.
> 
> ...


Brian,

Forget the Skil for routing aluminum. Period, end of discussion. 

Buy a big router that takes a 1/2" bit. Bigger is better. Cutting aluminum with a router is a no-joking-around task, that router isn't up to it unless you want to spend all day taking off a 1/4" of material in .003" passes. You need something with a lot of mass in the armature like the big Milwaukee or the Porter-Cable 7518. Cutter traction in aluminum is a lot greater than in wood, you need power and mass to keep things in control. This is the Big Show of routing you're venturing into, Little Leaguers need to stay home or be prepared to get hurt.

Quillman has routed a lot more aluminum than probably all of us here combined, check out his site for reliable info: Router Woodworking. Send him an email, drop a few bucks, the info is well worth it. He'll give you the straight and skinny.

My $.02 worth, HTH.

Bill


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