# Converting a Bosch RA1180 to a table



## LagunaPaul (Nov 26, 2012)

I have a bench top Bosch RA1180 router table. I want to convert it to a home built router table. I like the top, and it comes with T-tracks, Fence, Dust Collection, etc. But, I hate the flimsy plastic bench top legs. So, I'll take the plastic legs off. I see no reason to buy a new router plate/lift. My question is, how should I mount the table in the surrounding (extended) table top?

The Bosch table top is 18"x27". My finished table top will be 24"x36". The Bosch table top will have to nest into the finished table top. The Bosch table top comes with some "hanger slots" cast into all 4 sides. The sides a 1.5" high. I've attached a sketch up drawing of the top which shows the hanger slots.

Any suggestions on how to construct the table top so I can drop the Bosch Table Top into the final table top and adjust it to be perfectly flush?

Thanks.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Paul,

I can't help you but am sure someone will come along with advice.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

To me it sounds like a lot of hassle and I'd start from scratch but I'm sure your heart is set on this scenario .
Can you not make a template of your existing top and transfer it to a new mdf top creating a perfect fit , then deal with the levelling? The levelling shouldn't be a big deal . Have another layer underneath both tables and drill and install Allen head screws on the perimeter that you can adjust under your bosch one . 

I'm kinda looking at your bosch router table as if you were installing a router plate, but the Bosch table is the plate .


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## 8jmwoodie (Jan 2, 2014)

Need more info about the proposed new table top, such as material used and thickness.
It seems the mounting slots would simplify leveling just using a straight edge assuming you will have access below. Will it need to be surrounded on all 4 sides or just 3? Do you need to extend miter slot?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

8jmwoodie said:


> Need more info about the proposed new table top, such as material used and thickness.
> It seems the mounting slots would simplify leveling just using a straight edge assuming you will have access below. Will it need to be surrounded on all 4 sides or just 3? Do you need to extend miter slot?


 I was concerned about the miter slot also


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## Red Stick (Sep 7, 2011)

Surprised nobody has suggested mounting in the right side of his table saw?


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Red Stick said:


> Surprised nobody has suggested mounting in the right side of his table saw?


Geez, that 27" width should have been a clue, but i had immediate tunnel vision!! 

earl


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Red Stick said:


> Surprised nobody has suggested mounting in the right side of his table saw?


Wow Keith , that's why you make the big bucks . Good call


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## LagunaPaul (Nov 26, 2012)

Thank you for the help guys. I'll have to look at mounting on the side of my table saw. I hadn't thought of that. 

The reason that I was thinking of building a complete table was for storage and putting casters on it so I could move it around my small shop to get it out of the way when not needed. 



> Need more info about the proposed new table top, such as material used and thickness.
> It seems the mounting slots would simplify leveling just using a straight edge assuming you will have access below. Will it need to be surrounded on all 4 sides or just 3? Do you need to extend miter slot?


The additional details on the table top are unclear to me, which is why I was asking for help. I don't know if I should use plywood, or frame the Bosch Table top with some hard wood for additional stablility. I was thinking that it should be surrounded on all 4 sides for the best support, but I'm open to an idea where its open on the front. I did think that a hard laminate top, or even hardboard should be used on the top. I will extend the existing miter slot acros the entire table.



> Have another layer underneath both tables and drill and install Allen head screws on the perimeter that you can adjust under your bosch one .


As far as leveling it from the bottom, I thought that since the Bosch router top is already 1.5" thick, I'd end up with at least a 2" thick table if I did it like a normal router plate with the leveling screws underneth it.

Thank you for ideas.


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## LagunaPaul (Nov 26, 2012)

*Sandwich Design*

As an update -- I settled on a sandwich. I've included a top and bottom view of my table top with the Bosch RA1180 nested into it. I'm going to use a 3/4" plywood base, that is cutout to allow the Bosch table to be adjusted through it. On top of that, I'm going to go with some styles and rails made from hardwood with hanger bolts set on the inside edge to match the hanger slots in the Bosch table. Then, I'm going to top it all off with 1/4" hardboard. I'll route dados to extend the miter slot in the hardwood styles and rails, and cover that with a slot in the hard board. I didn't draw that part, but the rest of it is there. I think that will all be sturdy and durable. I've also designed a cart with a bunch of drawers and a port for dust collection. The table top will just sit atop the cart and I'll fasten it with some those figure 8 deals, I think. I'm kinda making this up as go.

I have to say, this is the first time that I've used sketch up. What a great, easy, little program. I did watch all four of the "getting started" videos, which is all the training I've had and its gotten me this far!

Thanks for the help, guys. Whenever I get the table done, I'll send pictures too.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Red Stick said:


> Surprised nobody has suggested mounting in the right side of his table saw?


Mounting in the table saw yields a router table that is uncomfortable for use and in the way. Unless you have a small shop and aren't very tall. 

Al


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

I would suggest designing a torsion box into the top of your design. All that weight being held by just the dowel pins may not be sufficient over time. I would also design in a way to level the aluminium top with the rest of the work surface.

One last thing. Do you really need front access to your router? Seems like people waste a lot of space placing a door on the front of the router. Why?
Just pull the plate if you need access to adjust the speed. Not something that gets changed very often. Makes you clean off your router lift and router once in a while. Just an idea.


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## LagunaPaul (Nov 26, 2012)

*More ideas!*

Thank you for the input. 



> All that weight being held by just the dowel pins may not be sufficient over time. I would also design in a way to level the aluminium top with the rest of the work surface.


I agree with you. For anyone that doesn't have a Bosch RA1180 Router table, they are heavy. And you certainly need a way to adjust the height to get the Bosch Table Top level with my new Router table top. Just to be clear, the picture is simplistic representation of what I'm building. Those aren't wooden dowels. I'm not that good with sketch up yet, that I can draw a proper hanger bolt. But, the hanger bolts are metal and threaded. I plan to put wing nuts on them and clamp the Bosch Table Top in my Router Table top at the correct (and adjustable) height.



> Seems like people waste a lot of space placing a door on the front of the router. Why?


That's a really good idea. The only reason I had one was because that's what I've seen other people do. I'm going to make the table, and try it out for a few weeks without the door and then decide if I should put a door there, or just a panel.

Thank you!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I agree with Al. A router should only get mounted in the wing of a table saw when no other option is available. Paul it looks like the frame around your Bosch "insert" will be thicker than it is. That is how I would do it is to sit the Bosch on top of a flange if you can get the depth of the flange equal with the Bosch's thickness. Otherwise I would go deeper in the surround and level it up to the other table with screws. By the way, threaded holes in wood work just fine for leveling screws. I use set screws in my home made mdf table saw insert and I haven't adjusted them in 10 years.

I am planning on a new router table like yours but I plan to leave the tunnel open at both ends, i.e. no door and no back on the cabinet there. Routers need air to run cool so you want as much going through as possible.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> I would suggest designing a torsion box into the top of your design. All that weight being held by just the dowel pins may not be sufficient over time. I would also design in a way to level the aluminium top with the rest of the work surface.
> 
> One last thing. Do you really need front access to your router? Seems like people waste a lot of space placing a door on the front of the router. Why?
> Just pull the plate if you need access to adjust the speed. Not something that gets changed very often. Makes you clean off your router lift and router once in a while. Just an idea.


Don't most fence positions make pulling the router for adjustments a problem? 

Al


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Al B Thayer said:


> Don't most fence positions make pulling the router for adjustments a problem?
> 
> Al


Who needs to pull the router with a PRL V2? All the bits are changed above table.

The only time I pull the router is to change the speed or to clean the router and lift.

I usually run compressed air through the motor after every project.

Not sure why people are so concerned about heat. If you are running dust collection, the router is getting all the fresh air it needs. You sure are going to get more flow past the router under vacuum than you would at atmospheric.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

timbertailor said:


> Not sure why people are so concerned about heat. If you are running dust collection, the router is getting all the fresh air it needs. You sure are going to get more flow past the router under vacuum than you would at atmospheric.


In order to cool the router pushes air from the cap end past the bit. If you are sucking the other direction you may be defeating some of the air flow. My fence mounted pickup gets around 95% of all dust. The only job it won't work for is grooving and I don't do much of that on a table. If you are using a fence mounted pickup then the flow is the same direction as the router and I would agree that this should improve airflow through the router.
By the way, I have heard many times that blowing compressed air through a power tools windings is not a good idea. If you do it you may want to turn the pressure way down.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

timbertailor said:


> One last thing. Do you really need front access to your router? Seems like people waste a lot of space placing a door on the front of the router. Why?
> Just pull the plate if you need access to adjust the speed. Not something that gets changed very often. Makes you clean off your router lift and router once in a while. Just an idea.


I believe the access door is still needed. I personally don't want to have to pull the router, lift and all, out just to change the speed, especially since I don't need to pull it for bit changes. Next, even the best dust collection their are dead zones with in the router box that the dust won't be collected, so having that access allows for easy clean out. As for not putting it there to save space, that really isn't a concern either. You still have the large open area for the router box, and you will want to have holes up front for air back flow.

I will say, I did make the router compartment on my new router table smaller than many you see on many tables. I did this both for improved dust collection and for a little extra storage.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

NiceG316 said:


> I believe the access door is still needed. I personally don't want to have to pull the router, lift and all, out just to change the speed, especially since I don't need to pull it for bit changes.


I see it as forced maintenance. I have a lift and a router that require maintenance. It has to be lifted to do so.

I rarely change router speeds unless doing panel work so my router and lift get serviced far more frequently than any router speed changes that are required.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> In order to cool the router pushes air from the cap end past the bit. If you are sucking the other direction you may be defeating some of the air flow. My fence mounted pickup gets around 95% of all dust. The only job it won't work for is grooving and I don't do much of that on a table. If you are using a fence mounted pickup then the flow is the same direction as the router and I would agree that this should improve airflow through the router.
> By the way, I have heard many times that blowing compressed air through a power tools windings is not a good idea. If you do it you may want to turn the pressure way down.


I could see a heat problem maybe if I was using a 1/2HP motor, running a 3" cutter, for an hour at a time without a lift or aluminium router plate and no dust collection getting hot.

But, a 3 1/2HP router with a huge aluminium router lift and plate acting as a heat sink with air flowing around the bit, the router, the lift, and the plate, with considerably more flow than the internal fan in the router can generate, would take some doing to generate any significant heat that would cause damage.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I used a large Makita plunge at a place I worked at once cutting edge profiles with a small bit. The router was mounted on a table that had the entire bottom enclosed and dust collection was connected to it. I used it for 15 minutes or so and during that time the router got hotter than any others I have ever used in the wide open. Based on that experience I never enclose one and I haven't found a need to. As I pointed out, a fence mounted dust port will collect 95% of the dust. Some love having theirs enclosed. I am simply offering another point of view with some additional considerations.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I used a large Makita plunge at a place I worked at once cutting edge profiles with a small bit. The router was mounted on a table that had the entire bottom enclosed and dust collection was connected to it. I used it for 15 minutes or so and during that time the router got hotter than any others I have ever used in the wide open. Based on that experience I never enclose one and I haven't found a need to. As I pointed out, a fence mounted dust port will collect 95% of the dust. Some love having theirs enclosed. I am simply offering another point of view with some additional considerations.


Just does not sound plausible. If your router enclosure is 2ft3 and your dust collector is pulling anywhere from 200 to 600cfm, that means the router enclosure is being completely emptied once to five times a second. No way that there could be any kind of heat build up. It is far more beneficial than being in an ambient air situation with little or no airflow over the router other than that created by the fan on the router motor itself.

I think your concerns are unfounded.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

timbertailor said:


> Just does not sound plausible. If your router enclosure is 2ft3 and your dust collector is pulling anywhere from 200 to 600cfm, that means the router enclosure is being completely emptied once to five times a second. No way that there could be any kind of heat build up. It is far more beneficial than being in an ambient air situation with little or no airflow over the router other than that created by the fan on the router motor itself.
> 
> I think your concerns are unfounded.


As I pointed out, I haven't found any reason to enclose a router over the 40 years I've been using them. Everything I need and want to do with them can be done out in the open. I personally cannot find any advantage to putting one in an enclosed space. If you can and it works for you then that's great. As I said, I only offered an alternate opinion. Lots of members and guests read these posts and they shouldn't think that it is absolutely necessary to enclose your router. There are pros and cons and they should do their research before committing one way or the other.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

I don't know Paul. It seems like a lot of trouble for router table without any ease of use. Have you thought about a router lift? I have one that adjusts from the top of the table. You can change bits really fast. It also doesn't require cranking it to the top to get at the bits.

Hanging the router from the top is a bad idea because of possible sag in the table. So you have to build a really thick table and your also stuck with what you can make it from. My lift is accurate, very little cost, and you can build the table out of about anything. If your interested in a lift and don't want to spend more than $20 send me a PM. 

Al


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

timbertailor said:


> I see it as forced maintenance. I have a lift and a router that require maintenance. It has to be lifted to do so.
> 
> I rarely change router speeds unless doing panel work so my router and lift get serviced far more frequently than any router speed changes that are required.


While I see the maintenance aspect in regards to the lift, I still don't see how the door wastes space. Also having the door there allows me to clean out material the DC left behind.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> Who needs to pull the router with a PRL V2? All the bits are changed above table.
> 
> The only time I pull the router is to change the speed or to clean the router and lift.
> 
> ...


While that's a mighty nice lift. It does have a few disadvantages. Hanging from the top dictates you build fort Knox to set it on. Pulling the router from the lift seems involved. Do you ever cover the lifting screw with setup? Or just avoid that area? And then there's the cost. But if I had to buy one. I believe that unit would be my choice. But so far I like mine best.

Thanks for answering my questions. I'm taking notes.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> As I pointed out, I haven't found any reason to enclose a router over the 40 years I've been using them. Everything I need and want to do with them can be done out in the open. I personally cannot find any advantage to putting one in an enclosed space. If you can and it works for you then that's great. As I said, I only offered an alternate opinion. Lots of members and guests read these posts and they shouldn't think that it is absolutely necessary to enclose your router. There are pros and cons and they should do their research before committing one way or the other.


Chuck I share your point about enclosing the router. One thing I don't like about my table is the noise. The box is like an amplifier. It doesnt have a bottom and the noise seems to blast like a big woofer. But maybe it just depends on the bit.

Al


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Al B Thayer said:


> While that's a mighty nice lift. It does have a few disadvantages. Hanging from the top dictates you build fort Knox to set it on. Pulling the router from the lift seems involved. Do you ever cover the lifting screw with setup? Or just avoid that area? And then there's the cost. But if I had to buy one. I believe that unit would be my choice. But so far I like mine best.
> 
> Thanks for answering my questions. I'm taking notes.
> 
> Al


I always leave the router in the lift when I pull it for cleaning. I agree, it would be a lot more trouble if you had to pull the router from the lift.

I have never had a situation where I needed to make an adjustment while I had a work piece on the table. I usually make test cuts on small pieces of scrap wood before committing to my final work piece so interference has never been an issue.

It is expensive but after doing woodwork for almost 40 years, I wanted something that was accurate, repeatable, and something that would make my router work easier. I waited a long time before I acquired all the pieces to this puzzle. I saw a lot of different router plate\lift designs come and go before I pulled the trigger on the PRL V2. It is built like a tank, well designed, and made in the USA. The fine adjustment dial wheel is worth its price of admission by itself. I make one test cut, measure on scrap with my calipers, adjust the dial with its .002" indicator and I am ready to cut.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> As I pointed out, I haven't found any reason to enclose a router over the 40 years I've been using them. Everything I need and want to do with them can be done out in the open. I personally cannot find any advantage to putting one in an enclosed space. If you can and it works for you then that's great. As I said, I only offered an alternate opinion. Lots of members and guests read these posts and they shouldn't think that it is absolutely necessary to enclose your router. There are pros and cons and they should do their research before committing one way or the other.


Wouldn't having the router in an enclosed space work better for dust removal, Assuming there's a dust extraction hose connected to the enclosed space ? 
I suspect in most circumstances that the dust is above the table but I was going to have two hoses ideally


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> I always leave the router in the lift when I pull it for cleaning. I agree, it would be a lot more trouble if you had to pull the router from the lift.
> 
> I have never had a situation where I needed to make an adjustment while I had a work piece on the table. I usually make test cuts on small pieces of scrap wood before committing to my final work piece so interference has never been an issue.
> 
> It is expensive but after doing woodwork for almost 40 years, I wanted something that was accurate, repeatable, and something that would make my router work easier. I waited a long time before I acquired all the pieces to this puzzle. I saw a lot of different router plate\lift designs come and go before I pulled the trigger on the PRL V2. It is built like a tank, well designed, and made in the USA. The fine adjustment dial wheel is worth its price of admission by itself. I make one test cut, measure on scrap with my calipers, adjust the dial with its .002" indicator and I am ready to cut.


I was referring to feather boards and the like. I have a router lift that is very accurate. Bits change without moving the height. Adjusts behind the fence. Micro adjusts. It allows me to make the top out of just about any material. I can remove the router by loosening one nut. Again without pulling it. The two kickers are it also holds the router in the horizontal mosition for mortise and tenon work. And it only cost me $20. I'll be showing it soon but it's going to market. Sure to change the way routers hang or don't hang.

Al


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## LagunaPaul (Nov 26, 2012)

There are some great points made here. I already have the Bosch table, so getting a lift is more $$. The Bosch Table comes with a split fence, spacers for the fence so I can use it as a jointer, a dust port, T-tracks, feather boards, and changeable aperture for different bit circumferences.

I do have a big Bosch router mounted to the table, which comes with its own underside dust collection, and the ability to "micro-adjust" the bit height, albeit via an under the table adjustment. 

It would be nice to buy a router lift, but I think I'd rather save my money to buy a thickness planer.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Save your money for the planer. Build a lift. I did and I have never wanted a store bought lift since. My lift can be built in about 3 hrs for less than $10. 

Build the lift in American Woodworker. It has big advantages over the high priced models.

Al


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