# For Deb



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Push block for the box joint bit 

Note ....if you put sand paper on the block like I did be sure it's back from the cutters,you don't want to wipe out the bit by going thought the sand paper  it will dull bit the bit in a heart beat.
If you use tee nuts remove the sharp points on the tee nuts,they like to split the wood out ,remove almost all but not all of it, about 1/8" or shorter but with a sharp points in place ,,

Note ---the mass of the block is the key..gravity is working for you all you need to do is keep the block to the fence ....

Deadman Foot Switch
http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerControls.htm

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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Bob! Wow The one I made was not even close to this. This makes way more sense. And it will be much easier to get square!
Thanks again! I am off to the shop to make one.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Filed on my future to do list 

Thanks BJ!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Ouick picture of my second push block after the MCLS one. Didn't like this one either.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

You're Welcome,,you will be surprise how easy it is,,to make a box/drawers one,two,three and your done..you don't need to put a slot in the drawer parts for the bottom,,just glue the bottom to the parts and use the trim bits to sq. them off..most of the drawers or boxes you make that size don't need alot to hold the bottom in place..a brad or two to just to make sure they are in place if you want, once the glue sets up you can put them to work..  no clamps needed..take a look at some of your router boxes..they do it all the time..

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CanuckGal said:


> Thanks Bob! Wow The one I made was not even close to this. This makes way more sense. And it will be much easier to get square!
> Thanks again! I am off to the shop to make one.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I got the new push block and bit set up block made finally. I think I have that bit tamed now. :sarcastic: This is a real nice heavy block that keeps my hands completely away from the bit. And I managed to get it nice and square to the table and fence. :laugh: Just needs some sandpaper on the front and I am set!
BTW I used the foot switch when making the set-up block. MUCH better! Thanks BJ! :thank_you2:

Now I need to get to work on the bit drawer!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Deb

You're Welcome

That's a nice looking push block, but you can use it for other jobs as well, once you run it by the bit and the slots are in place you can flip it over and use the other edge/side for other jobs without wiping out the block..many other jobs you will do will need you to run the stock by the bit on it's edge.. 


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CanuckGal said:


> I got the new push block and bit set up block made finally. I think I have that bit tamed now. :sarcastic: This is a real nice heavy block that keeps my hands completely away from the bit. And I managed to get it nice and square to the table and fence. :laugh: Just needs some sandpaper on the front and I am set!
> BTW I used the foot switch when making the set-up block. MUCH better! Thanks BJ! :thank_you2:
> 
> Now I need to get to work on the bit drawer!


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Deb,

If I may suggest, take a good look at Bj's "deluxe push block".


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Hi Ken I am already the proud owner of BJ Deluxe Pushblock! It rules! It works top notch with the OP jigs.
Speaking of which I have given up on this box joint bit. I spent ALL day (7 hours) trying to get a good fit between two pieces with this bit and it was nothing but an excercise in futility and firewood making. I tried everything, everyway, and everytime I thought I had it the next joint was a disaster. 
In 25 minutes I had the Oak Park 1/4" box joint jig set up and had all 4 sides of my drawer DONE with a nice tight fit. With a little help from the deluxe push block of course 
I don't know if this box joint bit just hates me or what but it is NOT working for me. I am not doing anything fancy, just working with 3/8 ply trying to make a simple drawer. Anyway it's done now, and I am sticking with the OP jigs for box joints.:sold:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

Just a butt in post 

Don't give up so easy,you just need a littlet help with it.
it's a great bit, and it will do the quick box joint..

Cut a pair of boards, use masking tape to hold them as one,set the bit so the bottom cutter lines up with the top of your router table, clamp the pair to the push block, make one pass and the flip the boards around and make one more pass now tape the other pair up the same way but this time reset your bit so it's 3/16" up off the router table, ( brass bars or drill bit for the gauge ) then do the same thing to that pair...you may need to trim the edge with the table saw until you get the hang of it.. it's so fast to make a great joint...( box/drawer )

The fence must match to the thickest of stock you are trying to use..most box joints bits cut 1/2" deep..

Once you have both pair done and then set them on the work bench they should be dead on the mark..
A little bit proud is always better than little bit shy on parts to the joint.

Hope this helps 

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CanuckGal said:


> Hi Ken I am already the proud owner of BJ Deluxe Pushblock! It rules! It works top notch with the OP jigs.
> Speaking of which I have given up on this box joint bit. I spent ALL day (7 hours) trying to get a good fit between two pieces with this bit and it was nothing but an excercise in futility and firewood making. I tried everything, everyway, and everytime I thought I had it the next joint was a disaster.
> In 25 minutes I had the Oak Park 1/4" box joint jig set up and had all 4 sides of my drawer DONE with a nice tight fit. With a little help from the deluxe push block of course
> I don't know if this box joint bit just hates me or what but it is NOT working for me. I am not doing anything fancy, just working with 3/8 ply trying to make a simple drawer. Anyway it's done now, and I am sticking with the OP jigs for box joints.:sold:


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Bob, I should have took pictures of all the disasters today. I used the brass bars to set up the bit. I tried it with stock the same height as the bit and twice the size of the bit. I tried pieces clamped together and individually. I KNOW it's an error on my part and not the bit, I just can't figure out what the heck I'm doing wrong. I set the depth of cut to 7/16 so the fingers would be a shade proud (3/8" stock). About the only thing I didn't try was taking two shallow cuts instead of one large one. But I already had so many errors with one cut, two was just sure to double that..lol.
I've boiled it down to something to do with either twisting or tilting the push block during the cut. Or maybe the fence is not ridgid enough, that insert in the middle may be moving slightly during the cut? One other thing I noticed is my mounting plate is not flush with the table top, maybe 1/64th too high. Perhaps at some point the push block is rocking slightly over this lip? I don't really want to mess with the groove the table plate sits in. I think a hair on the high side is better so things don't catch as the pass the end of the plate.
Like I said I spent 7 hours trying to figure out what I was doing wrong EVERY time. The fingers were often too narrow. Maybe the wood is getting "pushed" down into that large opening in the table mounting plate as it passes the bit. Don't know If I dare try this bit with the smaller opening plate. Something is moving somewhere and I can't figure it out. If a bit is that finniky that it takes that much time to set up it isn't worth it. 
I might give it a try again when I want to make very narrow box or drawer sides. I'll try to rig up a different fence maybe out of thicker MDF, but that was 3/4" that I was using.
I hate to give up, but frustration won out today. After doing the job so quick with the OP jigs, I wondered why I bothered at all.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

Sounds like many errors  not yours the table plate and the fence...the OP jigs over ride any errors on the plate..

But you may want to fix that, I know it's a pain but the plate must be flush with the top of the table top...it's a must for most router jobs..

The OP will not have Allen set in it to help get the job done but it's a easy fix,,but you must route the stock out from under the plate 1st.it's not a hard job, just drill and tap the mounting plate for the set screws.

You don't want the stock to hang up going on the plate and you don't want the stock to drop off the end when you go over the plate..

It's not to bad if the stock is short but it's like going over a speed bump in the road if it's not true..

The fence must be strong and true it takes alot from the bit when you push the stock by the bit..the taller the fence the better it needs to be supported ..if it moves it's not safe to use, the bit can jam very easy..
same for the plate..the bit can't move off of center more than .001..or to say the stock when you pass it by the bit....

You will hear many say the stock took off or pulled out of my hand,many times it comes down to the fence or the plate is not true to the bit, the bit just can't recover from the move and it hangs up and off it go's..


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Deb,

I'm a firm believer in the OP stuff. I do have all of their jigs and I do use them with success. (That is when I'm able to get any shop time in). The KISS rule can't be beat IMHO. It works. 

I'm with Bj though, it does sound like a lot of things are coming into play that are working against you with the use of this bit. Sometimes, for box joints, I use the TS to do the job. Some days, it's faster an easier, others, the RT is the better choice.


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