# Help needed understanding the Oak Park table system



## biggdogg (Feb 4, 2010)

While I'm trying to learn to use my new and first router (PC 895PK) I'm starting to think about a table. Looks like it wouldn't be too hard to make a simple table, but most say it won't save any money. Plus, it looks like you need a table to make one.

So given my somewhat limited space and budget I really like the looks and simplicity of the OP table. But I can't quite figure it out and wonder if you folks could clear up a couple of things for me.

First, is there a reason the plate is positioned at one of the long ends of the table? Most I've seen have it centered and closer to the front. Where on the table do you stand to work? Secondly, I can't quite figure out the optional miter gauge-and since it's pretty pricey, do you really need a miter gauge in the first place? I guess since most tables seem to have one I sort of just expected one to be there.

Any thoughts or even better, pics of yours would sure help me. I've watched every video on their website but I think those are more geared to people who already know what they're doing-which clearly excludes me!

Thanks,

Ed


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I know I positioned my router towards one side to help with support on the infeed side. I can also position myself on the short end if I don't need it.

As far as making a table, the OP style seems to have a lot of proponents. Personally, I like the route (see what I did there?) I took with mine.

Building A Low-Cost Sturdy Work Bench From 2x4's And OSB

Top that with two 3/4" MDF bonded together with a scrap of Formica (et al). I put 2x4 cleats on the underside of the tabletop to keep it stable. $40 or so for everything, and when you move on to something else, you can put the OSB on and use it for it's original purpose.

I'm already thinking about my next table (a month or so with this), but this was a great place to start.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

I need to say I like the OP system and the table but it has some real down falls to it.

I would suggest you just make a apple box ,turn on it's side and put in a plate like the one below ,the fence can be just about anything you want to use for it. (a true 2 x 4 works well )

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices


=========


biggdogg said:


> While I'm trying to learn to use my new and first router (PC 895PK) I'm starting to think about a table. Looks like it wouldn't be too hard to make a simple table, but most say it won't save any money. Plus, it looks like you need a table to make one.
> 
> So given my somewhat limited space and budget I really like the looks and simplicity of the OP table. But I can't quite figure it out and wonder if you folks could clear up a couple of things for me.
> 
> ...


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## biggdogg (Feb 4, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ed
> 
> I need to say I like the OP system and the table but it has some real down falls to it.
> 
> ...


So a miter gauge isn't really necessary? That would sure simplify things.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

A miter gauge is not needed and most of the time it's a PITA item on the router table..don't for get it's not like a table saw 

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biggdogg said:


> So a miter gauge isn't really necessary? That would sure simplify things.


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## biggdogg (Feb 4, 2010)

Well Bob, I've been reading up a little here in the meanwhile and think I'm starting to understand better. Looks like it would be a real pain to line the fence up with it anyway, so maybe a coping sled or even just a push block is the way to go.

If you use a push block (or coping sled) up against the fence, doesn't the cutter contact and cut the edge of it as well as the workpiece?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

biggdogg said:


> First, is there a reason the plate is positioned at one of the long ends of the table? Most I've seen have it centered and closer to the front. Where on the table do you stand to work?


A lot depends on how you work. I position myself so I can see above the bit and beside it. I'm 5'10" (178cm) and I position the plate so I don't have to lean over too far. My suggestion would be to put a baseplate somewhere on a table and see if you can move material past the centre without tiring too much. Try moving the baseplate around. Now, try the same thing on the kitchen counter. See the difference? The kitchen counter will be somewhere around 36" high. The kitchen table is about 29". Try adjusting up and down and around and find the most comfortable position. That becomes your model for the router table. That's one of the best reasons never to buy and always to make.

Oh, learn from experience --- don't position your baseplate at a diagonal to the edge of the table. Always keep them parallel. 



> Secondly, I can't quite figure out the optional miter gauge-and since it's pretty pricey, do you really need a miter gauge in the first place? I guess since most tables seem to have one I sort of just expected one to be there.


Ok, now you're into philosophy and that is dictated by how deep your pockets are. A router bit is always round. Which angle would you like to use? There are lots of people who would like you to think that router bits are square and that you need their more-expensive-than-the-next guy gizmos just to be able to find the on-off switch. Unfortunately, the only people they're helping is themselves -- to your cash.

Go to The Woodworking Channel and look for "The router workshop" videos and watch them like you're taking on a new religion. Watch and learn. Then decide if you need a mitre gauge.



> Any thoughts or even better, pics of yours would sure help me. I've watched every video on their website but I think those are more geared to people who already know what they're doing-which clearly excludes me!


I missed something. Which videos?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

Right on  the push block is the best way I think, it can be just a simple 12" x 12' block of wood with a handle or a peg for a handle ,most coping selds are a waste of money, I have many and have tried many out..

Fence ,,that's the neat thing about the router table it can be anywhere on the table and if you try to line it up with a track it can be a real PITA job.

I use a swing fence most of the time , that I got from the OP system setup.
Bob and Rick are the Pro's and you can pickup many,many tips from them called the Kiss way of doing things

Just a note about the plate ,it can be anywhere and anyway you want it to be, it just holds the router for you so to speak.. 
The top,I would suggest you keep it low to the floor , about 28" to 32" high...you can use your weight to keep the stock down to the table unlike if it's to high.



========



biggdogg said:


> Well Bob, I've been reading up a little here in the meanwhile and think I'm starting to understand better. Looks like it would be a real pain to line the fence up with it anyway, so maybe a coping sled or even just a push block is the way to go.
> 
> If you use a push block (or coping sled) up against the fence, doesn't the cutter contact and cut the edge of it as well as the workpiece?


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## rick7938 (Jul 19, 2009)

I'm relatively new to the site, but not to routers. I watched TRW when it was on a local station, but can't get it on satellite. So, I have some questions also about the TRW table since I am about to build my second table.

1. My current table is 24" wide X 17" deep. The insert is centered left and right and set to the front of the table. I stand facing the long side of the table and push my work from right to left. What is the advantage of having the insert placed on one end of the table and pushing the stock across the narrow dimension of the table?

2. What are the dimensions of the typical TRW table top?

3. I do like the low fence for most work. Mine is 4" high so I have to move the stock right to left parallel to the fence instead of away from me like a table saw. I'm going to use that feature in my new table.

4. What about dust collection with TRW table? How do most of you handle that?

Thanks for any input. I look forward to building some clone of TRW table, but want to understand some of the principles before I do.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

check this video of the router work shop router table idea's ?? Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue


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## rick7938 (Jul 19, 2009)

I've tried that link numerous times, but cannot find a video.


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## sometimewoodworker (Feb 13, 2009)

biggdogg said:


> Looks like it wouldn't be too hard to make a simple table, but most say it won't save any money.


I think it may be true to say that making a home made table (if you put a sensible price on your time) is not cheaper than buying one *But* you will get a better one if you build it yourself.



> Plus, it looks like you need a table to make one.


I can't think of any thing in making a router table that needs a router table to make. There is always more than one way to butcher wood.:blink:




> I can't quite figure out the optional miter gauge-and since it's pretty pricey, do you really need a miter gauge in the first place?


As far as the Oak Park Mitre Gauge system you should watch the video on the psge under and decide if you want to do the things it can do.
Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue
It is in a class of its own & IMNSHO If you want to do the things it does it is well worth the money.

Of course you can buy it later.



> I guess since most tables seem to have one I sort of just expected one to be there.
> Ed


Some tables have miter slots many don't. Most people don't use miter gauges even if they have a miter slot. They get used for sleds and jigs. But t-slots may get used more and may be more useful.

The down side to having any slots in the table is that they fill with saw (router?) dust and have to be cleaned out befor use.


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## rick7938 (Jul 19, 2009)

Finally got the video to load, but it still doesn't answer my questions about the advantages of this table design over the traditional table configuration, table size, etc.

Thanks to anyone that can answer my questions.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rick

Try the link below

Mitre Gauge System - Oak-Park.com

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rick7938 said:


> I've tried that link numerous times, but cannot find a video.


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## sometimewoodworker (Feb 13, 2009)

rick7938 said:


> Finally got the video to load, but it still doesn't answer my questions about the advantages of this table design over the traditional table configuration, table size, etc.
> 
> Thanks to anyone that can answer my questions.


It may have no advantages or it may be the perfect one for you.

It would be helpful to know what you want to do on it. Otherwise you are asking for a really long answer that may not cover what you want to know.

It is like routers. If your main use is trimming edges of shelves, counter tops or veneer then something like am MFK700 is perfect. But if you are going to be shaping raised panels and rails and door styles with a router then you need something like an OF 2200.


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## rick7938 (Jul 19, 2009)

Maybe, I just don't know what I don't know, but here goes. Almost everything that I do involves your first example of putting decorative edges on material, cutting grooves and dadoes, roundovers, chamfers, etc. My table router is a very cherished PC 690 which is only 1 1/2-hp so everthing I do is small or taken in small bites.

I guess that my only real question is regarding the advantage of the TRW table vs. the traditional set-up. It looks very easy to manage the smaller cuts on the TRW table which is what interested me initially. I guess that I could make one and try it, but I would rather get some insight on the advanatages and disadvantages that other have observed.

Thanks for the reply.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

You can access the bit from any side of the TRW table. The fence has no fixed position so you can move it anywhere you need it. Makes it easier to work on small or large pieces. Everything clamps easily to the edges, fence, featherboards, whatever. I have a Incra Original Jig clamped to mine. My only complaint with the TRW table is the plate size. It's not the "standard" 9" x 11". Makes replacing it a pain. Other then that I find it an exceptionally multifunctional router table!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rick

About the only thing I can suggest is to view the 35 (RWS) videos on the link below and let you make up your own mind 

The Woodworking Channel Video Library


========


rick7938 said:


> Maybe, I just don't know what I don't know, but here goes. Almost everything that I do involves your first example of putting decorative edges on material, cutting grooves and dadoes, roundovers, chamfers, etc. My table router is a very cherished PC 690 which is only 1 1/2-hp so everthing I do is small or taken in small bites.
> 
> I guess that my only real question is regarding the advantage of the TRW table vs. the traditional set-up. It looks very easy to manage the smaller cuts on the TRW table which is what interested me initially. I guess that I could make one and try it, but I would rather get some insight on the advanatages and disadvantages that other have observed.
> 
> Thanks for the reply.


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## phone_63 (Dec 31, 2009)

Hi,

I just gor the Bench Dog ProTop contractor benchtop router table and I love it. It's built like a tank and costs the same as the OP table.
What I like about it is the Pro Fence which is aluminum and not plastic and the miter tracks , it also is enclosed to cut down on the noise and the dust collection is good. I mounted a Bosch 1617evspk on it with no problem. It took about 3 leisurley hours to assemble.

Greg


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## rick7938 (Jul 19, 2009)

Thanks for the info, Deb. That is what I needed to know.

Kindest regards.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

The OP table & it's system(s), follows along the K.I.S.S. rule. It works. The only issue with the table itself is as Deb has pointed out. For plate replacement(s), you'll need to go back to OP for a plate. But, the plate also has advantages over other plates. For the size, you won't find any other plate that has the stability as the OP plate for hand held work. Can you just "pop out" your plate in any other table and use for hand held use? Doubt it. Watch the RWS shows on the Woodworking channel, this should answer your questions about it. Personally, I love mine it has yet to fail to do any job I've needed it to do.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> The OP table & it's system(s), follows along the K.I.S.S. rule. It works. The only issue with the table itself is as Deb has pointed out. For plate replacement(s), you'll need to go back to OP for a plate. But, the plate also has advantages over other plates. For the size, you won't find any other plate that has the stability as the OP plate for hand held work. Can you just "pop out" your plate in any other table and use for hand held use? Doubt it. Watch the RWS shows on the Woodworking channel, this should answer your questions about it. Personally, I love mine it has yet to fail to do any job I've needed it to do.


Hi Ken:

What is bane to one is boon to another. I love that my plates are square. It allows me to rotate the pin from the short side to the long side. I can work from any side of the table. My modules are all 36" tall and I can join them together to enlarge a work surface. It is important to me to be able to have the pin available from a variety of angles.


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## biggdogg (Feb 4, 2010)

CanuckGal said:


> You can access the bit from any side of the TRW table. The fence has no fixed position so you can move it anywhere you need it. Makes it easier to work on small or large pieces. Everything clamps easily to the edges, fence, featherboards, whatever. I have a Incra Original Jig clamped to mine. My only complaint with the TRW table is the plate size. It's not the "standard" 9" x 11". Makes replacing it a pain. Other then that I find it an exceptionally multifunctional router table!


So, given that the plates are completely proprietary to OP, should one buy a backup plate just to be safe? Things happen to businesses and items do go out of production. Try finding one of the "old style" Rockler plates today.

Are the OP plates unusually fragile?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Ken:
> 
> What is bane to one is boon to another. I love that my plates are square. It allows me to rotate the pin from the short side to the long side. I can work from any side of the table. My modules are all 36" tall and I can join them together to enlarge a work surface. It is important to me to be able to have the pin available from a variety of angles.



Hi Ron,

This is where a big plus does come into play for the OP table. Since the plate is 11" x 11" square, you're only limited to the length of fence you use. I've found that setting up the fence doesn't take but a min. if that. This is why I don't much care for other plates & tables. You're limited to the size of the plate, usually can't rotate them like you can the OP plate.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

biggdogg said:


> So, given that the plates are completely proprietary to OP, should one buy a backup plate just to be safe? Things happen to businesses and items do go out of production. Try finding one of the "old style" Rockler plates today.
> 
> Are the OP plates unusually fragile?


It would take quite a bit to destroy an OP plate. They don't warp, strong and yet very light weight even with a 15lb router hanging on it. I do have backup plates but not for the reason you're talking about. They're for the other routers I have and do use in the table. They ARE quite easily modified if needed.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

YVW Rick. Now that I have thought about it, the square 11"x11" plate size actually works because you CAN access the table from any side. DOH! The reason was right there in front of me.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

biggdogg said:


> So, given that the plates are completely proprietary to OP, should one buy a backup plate just to be safe? Things happen to businesses and items do go out of production. Try finding one of the "old style" Rockler plates today.
> 
> Are the OP plates unusually fragile?


Hi Ed:

The Oakpark system is a convenience. They make what you can make yourself. You're not tied into something that's going to disappear tomorrow because you can make these yourself. Thee are currently threads on how to make baseplates. The advantage of the OakPark system is that Rob has thoroughly worked out the entire system to be simple and effective. No, they're not fragile. They're made of 12mm (1/4") phenolic.

When the FAQ is put up, read "Routers - Organized" and "Baseplates" for a complete treatise on OakPark vs. other systems.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Ron... are they 12mm or 1/4"? 1/4" is closer to 6mm.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> Ron... are they 12mm or 1/4"? 1/4" is closer to 6mm.


Oops, sorry, geriatric moment directly attributed to momentary absence of mental stimulation and discipline brought on by sedate lifestyle founded on medical necessity = I goofed!

1/4" is the correct answer = 6.25 mm.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> Hi Ron,
> 
> This is where a big plus does come into play for the OP table. Since the plate is 11" x 11" square, you're only limited to the length of fence you use. I've found that setting up the fence doesn't take but a min. if that. This is why I don't much care for other plates & tables. You're limited to the size of the plate, usually can't rotate them like you can the OP plate.


hi Ken:

Bearing work is the biggest advantage. What I like is that for small stuff, I can move the guide pin/bearing in a line perpendicular to the table edge, close to me and work the workpiece away from me in complete control. For the big workpieces I can rotate the pin and bearing until they are in a line parallel to the table edge and work across the front of me. 

This is said for the benefit of those who may not be exposed to this philosophy and to give them a different point of view. Ken, you certainly don't need to be told any of this but I thank you for opening the door.


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## gallianp (Oct 13, 2009)

I feel like I am still beating a dead horse! But those who are contemplating purchase of an OP table need to understand that the plate sets above the table and NOT flush. 

Some say that this makes no difference -- I disagree!


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

gallianp said:


> I feel like I am still beating a dead horse! But those who are contemplating purchase of an OP table need to understand that the plate sets above the table and NOT flush.
> 
> Some say that this makes no difference -- I disagree!


Hi Paul:

Oops, Nope, nada, niet, non, no way José.

The baseplate is recessed into the table top. There are instructions to accomplish this on the OakPark site and if you watch the RouterWorkshop videos at ...

The Woodworking Channel

you'll see them setting the baseplate into the table. Rob has the same problem I have. My recessions are not perfect and occasionally I have to thump the corner to get it to sit flush.

Hope this kinda clears things up.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just my 2 cents

The plate is the biggest down fall of the OP system.. 

You will see many post about the plate not sitting right in the hole it's the one thing they don't tell you about and that you need to buy two plates ,it's a priority system and I know why they did it that way,smart.

If you want to use any bit over 2 3/4" OD forget. the smaller plate hole with the 1 1/2" hole is to small most of the time for most of the normal bits not to say anything about the priority guide system..

I know I will get some flack on this one but I just call them like I see them..and try and use them 
I had to rework the ones I have in order to use them.. 


======


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Bj,

You won't catch any flak from me my friend. You're right, this is a drawback to the OP system. This is why, as you know, I have 2 of both plates. :agree:


For those who question the plate, it's highly suggested that you watch the show on the woodworking channel. 


Ron,

I don't know if you have the vacu-plate system or not but, for those that do, rotating the plate will still work however, using a vac. system for the plate won't work very well.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> Ron,
> 
> I don't know if you have the vacu-plate system or not but, for those that do, rotating the plate will still work however, using a vac. system for the plate won't work very well.


Hi Ken:

Nope, I don't have that. I opted for the "clean up afterwards" philosophy.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Ken:
> 
> Nope, I don't have that. I opted for the "clean up afterwards" philosophy.



A fence with a vac hook up will still work fine though. I forgot to add that point. Old age catchin up to me. :haha:


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> The plate is the biggest down fall of the OP system..


I don't know how.



> You will see many post about the plate not sitting right in the hole it's the one thing they don't tell you about and that you need to buy two plates ,it's a priority system and I know why they did it that way,smart.


Yes, I have run into this problem myself. However, I'm working on a solution in the next top. If it works, I'll certainly pass it on.



> If you want to use any bit over 2 3/4" OD forget. the smaller plate hole with the 1 1/2" hole is to small most of the time for most of the normal bits not to say anything about the priority guide system..


The OakPark baseplates (plural) are designed for specific purposes. The 1½" hole is for standard template guides up to some of the largest throats in the industry. Only the 40mm is larger. There is a specific baseplate for use with bits that are larger. It comes cut for 3 1/8" diameter hole for <= 3" bits. If that is not big enough, I've cut mine to 3½" diameter with no ill effects other than a bit that size scares the s___ of out me. I make damned sure I've got lots of armour protection when using stuff that size.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> A fence with a vac hook up will still work fine though. I forgot to add that point. Old age catchin up to me. :haha:


You too?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Ron,

I believe what Bj is saying is, the guides for the OP plate will only take on OP guides not any PC style guides. I do have all of OP guides and haven't used all of them... yet.  So, no issues for me.

For the plate not "sitting" correctly in the hole, there is a quick fix to that. I've mentioned this several times before in the past.

I too modified one of my larger plates to 3 1/2" hole, wasn't difficult to do. I'm like you, I don't like spinning those large bits and with a good friends help. I've built a different fence and intend on getting vert. panel bits to replace those ear screaming bits.:jester:


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## biggdogg (Feb 4, 2010)

Could anyone point me specific episodes of TRW or other videos that deal directly with the OP table? I'm starting to work my way through the episodes on The Woodworking Channel and while all episodes seem to show the OP table in use, none I can find so far deal with it specifically.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

biggdogg said:


> Could anyone point me specific episodes of TRW or other videos that deal directly with the OP table? I'm starting to work my way through the episodes on The Woodworking Channel and while all episodes seem to show the OP table in use, none I can find so far deal with it specifically.



Try this: http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RT01--

Click on the video button. HTH


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

I should note, the reason the plate sits off to the side is, the right hand side is designed for 2 shelves that can store either router bits and or guides.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> I believe what Bj is saying is, the guides for the OP plate will only take on OP guides not any PC style guides. I do have all of OP guides and haven't used all of them... yet.  So, no issues for me.


Conversely, one might say that the PorterCable guides are the peculiarity, grossly undersized. However, I'm not sure what material they're made of. Are they brass or steel. If they're steel, my recommendation would be not to use them. Too damned dangerous.



> For the plate not "sitting" correctly in the hole, there is a quick fix to that. I've mentioned this several times before in the past.
> 
> I too modified one of my larger plates to 3 1/2" hole, wasn't difficult to do. I'm like you, I don't like spinning those large bits and with a good friends help. I've built a different fence and intend on getting vert. panel bits to replace those ear screaming bits.:jester:


I have a problem with tall structures. I'm trying to build french doors that are tall and narrow. If I were to use vertical bits, I wouldn't have enough ceiling room to cut the panels. I'm kinda caught with horizontal bits for the moment.

Thanks for the insight Ken. Talk soon.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I used both type of guides in my OP plate ( PC and the OP type) and I do, now and then use the steel ones.
The vertical bits are not made for the standard router table but they will work well if you are low in HP .
The OP guides only come with a short stem (1/4" long ) and you can't get all the sizes in the OP type ,I know I have tried.
The plate will sit right once you rework the pocket hole and use some set screws to get the plate to sit level and flat with the top of the table..
Like I said it has some down falls that must be over come out of the box.

========


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## biggdogg (Feb 4, 2010)

I guess I have to say that if the plate mounting has to be reworked right out of the box, it will discourage me from this being my first purchased table. For me, the plate installation is the hard part anyway. Might as well just build my own if I have to re-build one I paid good money for.

I must say I'm a little surprised to be finding this out now given that this table is as highly regarded as it seems to be on this forum. I admit I don't quite get it...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

Most people will not tell you they made a mistake or didn't get all the facts b/4 it was to late..I don't recall off the top of my head but someone did post that they had the same error with the plate and called OP part for a new plate or top that would let it fit right and they told him that's just the way it comes that's norm.. I don't know what he did but he was ticked off... 

So I said I would speak up this time.. 
======



biggdogg said:


> I guess I have to say that if the plate mounting has to be reworked right out of the box, it will discourage me from this being my first purchased table. For me, the plate installation is the hard part anyway. Might as well just build my own if I have to re-build one I paid good money for.
> 
> I must say I'm a little surprised to be finding this out now given that this table is as highly regarded as it seems to be on this forum. I admit I don't quite get it...


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## gallianp (Oct 13, 2009)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Paul:
> 
> Oops, Nope, nada, niet, non, no way José.
> 
> ...


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
You are wrong-- according to OP it is NOT flush with the table top on purpose.. it is proud (above the table top about a fingernail height all the way round.
~
This is the email that I received from OP when I questioned the problem.

~~~~~~~~~
The base plate is designed to sit in the table top slightly higher then the top. The reason for this is that you always start routing with your material on the base plate and you want to make sure that it will not get caught on the edge of the router table top as you complete your cut. The difference in the height will not have any effect on the finished cut.

Regards,

Wendy
Oak Park
Cusotmer Service
~~~
No apology necessary from you allthunbs ( as you said "I hope this clears this UP"

paul


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Again, the work is being done at the bit, no where else!! Yes, it's true the plate sits slightly higher than the table. No where has this fact been hidden. Do the research, it's stated. Again, this in no way effects any work being done. It's also true that you're limited to the use of OP guides unless you modify the plate to take on PC style guides. So let me ask you this. You build a table on your own, ok, great, now, you realize changes that need made. So, are you going to sit there criticize , b***h, complain about it or build another to your current needs? 


I am done with this!!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

My OP plate sits a bit high but this has never been an issue. Ken is right, the work happens at the bit. If there was an issue of the workpiece moving or "rocking" then you should be using featherboards or some method of keeping the work on the plate and tight at the bit. There are a few episodes of TRW where Bob uses featherboards. I think for the average router user the bushings that OP has are sufficient. They also sell 7" base plates for routers that use the bushings in the hand held mode. I see lots of beautiful and awesome home built router tables on this forum but so far the TRW table has worked just fine for me. I am making a new base plate with an "adjustable" bit opening and that should solve the one minor problem I have had with the table.


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

I have two plates, one I use for the large horizontal panel bit, the other for most of everything else. Mine both sit even with the table top, if they didn't how would you attach a fence that runs over, and wouldn't your wood get caught or tip a little on its way to the bit?

~Julie~


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

The plate sits only a millimeter or so above the table. This doesn't interfere with the fence. The work starts on the plate so it doesn't get caught on entry. Pressure is applied to the work right before the bit ON the plate. If the plate is higher it can't get caught on exit from the plate either. Whatever method I am using of holding the work to the bit always happens on the plate near the bit so there is no rocking.
I have a video about setting up the table. I think Bob R. explains this feature in the video. I'll review it again and let you know.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

There is nothing wrong with having the plate level Levon. I was just stating as an owner of an OP table whose plate isn't level I haven't had any issues with it. I don't start feeding work before the plate so it doesn't catch. 
Perhaps on some of the larger tables that use fences with miter tracks or tables with miter tracks for hold downs and accessories an unlevel plates would be a serious issue. The K.I.S.S. principal of the OP table doesn't have to deal with that.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

All I can say why not make it level from the get go then it would not be a issue at all.

Just like the plate why not just make one plate with the snap in rings in it, then it would just take one plate and not two of them..for all the router jobs..

It's not a big deal if you have two routers but most don't have two of the same in the shop the norm..like the boys do. 

========


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

BJ if only everything in life were so simple.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

This thread has become pure BS!! I guess no one has used a router hand held? Rather the plate sits flush or slightly above, makes NO DIFFERENCE in it's operation. THE WORK IS STILL BEING DONE AT THE BIT!! Wake up and realize that fact. 



Mark, please remove my gallery and my name from this forum.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Why is everyone taking things so personal lately?


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

Well here is a quick sketch and drawn exaggerated to show what I think is a problem with the base plate being higher. You cannot start all wood at the bit. I have done large pieces of wood with weight to them that would tip them away from the plate and put them at an angle to the bit. Of course I do use featherboards, but to me, there is still that small space on the table before and after the plate that will rock the board.









~Julie~


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I haven't been following this thread but have just had a quick read and am truly astounded that anyone would think that the plate should be anything but dead level with the table. Julie's drawing, whilst exaggerated of course, does illustrate the main reason it should be level. As Bj remarked, why not make it level from the start. Even slightly BELOW the surface would be preferable to above for all but tiny jobs.
Ken Hamlin is a very good friend of mine and we seldom disagree, and whilst I agree about hand held routing, I must insist that the plate should be FLUSH.
Do everyone bear in mind that a non flush plate is not the end of the world, a little ingenuity will soon have it LEVEL!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I can't post the snippet of the video where Bob R is talking about how the Oak Park table is set up but here is the transcript of where he is talking about the plate in the OP table.



> We get a few questions lots of times about a plate like that, Where should it be? Should it be flush with it, should it be a little lower should it be higher? The main thing people is that once you pass the bit, the cutting is done. You don't want to butt into the side of your table so if the plate is milled in it and when we manufacture them we have them just slightly above so when you come into there you don't butt into anything.The main thing is that it's smooth across the top of the plate to the work surface. Once it's past the bit it's cut anyway.


As I said I have had no issues.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

CanuckGal said:


> I can't post the snippet of the video where Bob R is talking about how the Oak Park table is set up but here is the transcript of where he is talking about the plate in the OP table.
> 
> 
> 
> As I said I have had no issues.


And here I was spending inordinate amounts of time cutting, testing, cutting just to get it close to flush. Well, I like how close I am and how little trouble I have so I'll keep doing it. I have another top to cut soon so I'll see what I come up with.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Ron, I do have the greatest respect for Bob, having seen him perform his magic on video, however I totally disagree with him on this point, I would suspect that OakPark have some sort of manufacturing problem and the explanation is to cover it. How on earth can ANYONE say that a level plate is not correct?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Interesting comment Harry. I guess the next attempt will come closer to addressing these issues for me.


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## biggdogg (Feb 4, 2010)

Wow...as the original poster I have to say that while I'm really appreciative of all of the info in this thread I sure never expected quite such a controversy!

Having said that, I cannot for the life of me figure why OP doesn't just correct the "problem", whether it's a real problem or not. Maybe the slight plate elevation is a help for some folks as they at OP maintain, but it's clearly an issue for others; it couldn't be much trouble for them to make it flush and be done with it. Nobody could possibly then complain about the plate being flush.

Here's the thing, for me at least. This is the table I thought I wanted, but as a complete router rookie I need a fair amount of hand-holding. And while it would be easy for many of you to fix this issue if it bothered you, I don't want to have to be jacking around on my first table. So for the time being anyway, it's kind of put me off on the OP table. I hate this happening because it looks like a simple, well-made table at a reasonable price. But like I say, as a rookie I'm not jumping in to a potential problem first crack off the bat.

Oak Park, I know you guys read these forums, you told me so. So why don't you just "fix" the thing and be done with it?


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

For whatever reason, I guess they view it as a benefit. I don't see how, though.

I mean, if you use a sled, don't you absolutely have to correct it?


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Personally, I feel that having it level is best. For my garage shop built table, I put a screw in each corner that the plate rests on. The table is otherwise MDF with a laminate top. As humidity changes, the plate can move up and down, the screws make it very quick and simple to correct this. 

I can see slightly above level working on shorter pieces, but with long pieces this could create an un-even route.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

There's something that we should be considering. How flush is flush?

If the base is 1/1000ths of an inch off flush, is it too much? Or is 1/64th accurate enough. I notice that all of the other base plate manufacturers have the same problem but they handle it with adjusting screws.

Define flush and let's see how close OakPark/RWS really is. If there is going to be some deviation off perfect, I would prefer the base plate be slightly higher than the table surface.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

flush is flush, it's black and white thing not gray. the switch is off or it's on.

The error is not with the plate so to speak it's with the wooden pocket hole it fits in, the other mfg. know it will have errors so they give you a way to fix that error with set screws and holes in the plate to hold them.

It's a easy fix but must be done to get it FLUSH..

========





allthunbs said:


> There's something that we should be considering. How flush is flush?
> 
> If the base is 1/1000ths of an inch off flush, is it too much? Or is 1/64th accurate enough. I notice that all of the other base plate manufacturers have the same problem but they handle it with adjusting screws.
> 
> Define flush and let's see how close OakPark/RWS really is. If there is going to be some deviation off perfect, I would prefer the base plate be slightly higher than the table surface.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

If my plate isn't flush, the stock either grabs the edge, or dips into it.
I like things nice and neat.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

While I'm not the sharpest pencil in the box I ham having a very difficult tyme understanding the problem....If you like it proud so what ? If you don't fix it! 
I promise you router "Gods" could care less..It's your tools, your workshop no one will inspect to see if your in compliance with what the collective "thinks"..
Bottom line...."GET OVER IT"..

George Cole
"Regulae Stultis Sunt"


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## biggdogg (Feb 4, 2010)

George II said:


> While I'm not the sharpest pencil in the box I ham having a very difficult tyme understanding the problem....If you like it proud so what ? If you don't fix it!
> I promise you router "Gods" could care less..It's your tools, your workshop no one will inspect to see if your in compliance with what the collective "thinks"..
> Bottom line...."GET OVER IT"..
> 
> ...


Gettin' over it is one thing.

But as a consumer you have a right to vote with your bucks.

If not for this thread I would have popped for one never realizing the existence of this problem. And let's face it: just because one is capable of fixing it doesn't mean it wasn't a problem to start with. I for one have no desire (and questionable ability) to fix something that should have been right to start with.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

This is the second time this issue about the Oak Park table has come up that I know of anyway. What I am surprised about is that neither time Bob or Rick chimed in to share their wisdom. While I am still an advocate of the system I am a little dissapointed in the lack of support on the very forum they sponsor.


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## garybaritone (Feb 21, 2009)

I thought I would throw in my two cents on the topic of the plate being proud of the table surface. IMHO, this effectively makes the table size the size of the plate.

The problem is one of holding the stock down at the beginning and end of the cut. Consider the following. I am attempting to rout the edge of a 4 foot long board that weighed 4 pounds. If my plate is 12 inches long (6 inches each side of the router bit) and proud of the table surface, it would require 12 pounds of downward force to prevent the board from pivoting over the edge of the plate at the beginning and end of the cut. This is more than a good featherboard would hold down. To solve this problem, the operator holds up the end of the board at the beginning and end of the cut or sets up infeed and outfeed tables to provide additional support.

If my table is 3 feet long (1-1/2 feet each side of the bit) and the plate is flush with the table top, it only requires 1.33 pounds of force to hold the board down and prevent it from pivoting over the end of the 3 foot long table.

If the table were 4 foot or longer (and the plate flush), the 4 foot long board would support itself on the table because the center of gravity of the board is now on the table and the downward force at the beginning and end of the cut is effectively zero.

Simple force-vector diagrams verify my analysis. I hope this brings further enlightenment to this discussion. Just remember, bigger is better and flush is a must.:sarcastic::yes4:


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I just love it when theory backs up what has been found in practice Gary.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

allthunbs said:


> There's something that we should be considering. How flush is flush?
> 
> If the base is 1/1000ths of an inch off flush, is it too much? Or is 1/64th accurate enough. I notice that all of the other base plate manufacturers have the same problem but they handle it with adjusting screws.
> 
> Define flush and let's see how close OakPark/RWS really is. If there is going to be some deviation off perfect, I would prefer the base plate be slightly higher than the table surface.


Come now Ron, this is WOODWORKING, if light can't be seen under a straight edge, then it's flush!
Whilst these shots don't relate to the router plates that are under discussion, they are of the centre hole in my cast iron table and I make zero clearance discs for different size cutters, the same principles apply, as you can see, I fit shims to bring the discs flush. The first shot show light shining through and the disc is only 0.3mm too high!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

CanuckGal said:


> This is the second time this issue about the Oak Park table has come up that I know of anyway. What I am surprised about is that neither time Bob or Rick chimed in to share their wisdom. While I am still an advocate of the system I am a little dissapointed in the lack of support on the very forum they sponsor.


Deb, in the past I have emailed members who were thinking of putting their hands up for the position of moderator, also of newly appointed moderators, asking if they had thought it through because, from where I sit there appears to be close to zero backup from above. On the one hand I can appreciate that there is a cost involved in operating such a forum but on the other hand, when members perceive that there is a problem with the OakPark table, which I presume is but one source of income, surely it would be an easy matter to modify during production and anyone purchasing one can, if they wish, add shims under the plate to raise it, problem solved, everyone happy!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Harry thanks for idea! I checked it with the light and the Vernier. I already knew it wasn't flush, but it's only .017 or just slightly more then 1/64 inches or .43mm out. That's not too far from yours.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Well I think this whole thing is really gotten out of context. The whole thing about parts "rocking" has got to the point where it sounds like they are swinging pendulums. If I were feeding a 4 foot long piece of wood past a router bit, I certainly wouldn't be standing at the end of it pushing it forward. Not without a LOT of hardware holding it down and into the bit (but I personally still wouldn't do it that way). I think the OP set up differs from the longer tables with the plate in the middle. You have a lot less table in front of the plate, so you pretty much have to start on the plate. In all TRW videos I have watched Bob or Rick is always controlling the workpiece at the bit or using appropriate hardware to keep it there. They never start anything in front of the plate, always on it. 
I wouldn't tell people don't buy the table because the plate isn't flush. It IS an easy fix if you are determined that is must be flush. But I would say don't discount the system before you have tried it. 
I am not defending it because it's what I have and I am stuck with it. I could buy another table or build my own now. I still have my Wolfcraft table and have used it when I couldn't work with the openings in the OP plate. Other then that it sits under the work bench collecting dust. I *LIKE* the OP table and it is serving me well with the exception of the hole sizes in the plates. But that too is an easy fix. If one day the unflush plate becomes and issue I will fix it. And I will be sure to post here and let everyone know how and why. 
None of this changes my opinion about being a moderator on this forum. Bob and Rick won't be around forever (well neither will I) but their legacy and their knowledge will be carried forward in this forum for a long time to come. And I will bet good money in 10-20 years you may find some "antique" Oak Park tables still kicking around


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

CanuckGal said:


> Harry thanks for idea! I checked it with the light and the Vernier. I already knew it wasn't flush, but it's only .017 or just slightly more then 1/64 inches or .43mm out. That's not too far from yours.


Hi Deb and Harry:



> Come now Ron, this is WOODWORKING, if light can't be seen under a straight edge, then it's flush!


Apparently not. I offered the question "how flush was flush" and Bob3J provided the perfect answer "flush is flush, it's black and white thing not gray. the switch is off or it's on."

So, I guess your approximation of flush is not flush - after all it's a black and white thing. It may be adequate for you and me. Personally, I've never run into a problem with the fulcrum effect that GaryBaritone is talking about. It is indeed there but my plate is close enough that I've not run into a problem.

However, most of us agree with you, Deb. The reason this has persisted is that there are those who would dump on the OakPark table as a means of discrediting a philosophy and thus the people who use it. 

Personally, I think the job that Rob did creating this philosophy is nothing short of excellent. It doesn't have to be perfectly accurate to be usable and produce excellent results and ultimately, that's what it is all about. Can it produce excellent results? For OakPark users, there is an additional benefit, that of frugality. You don't have to create another Bill Gates just to use a router, a fact not lost on manufacturers and purveyors of the expensive systems.

Now, I'm going to take this in another direction. Even after working a workpiece through the jointer and planer, I have never worked with a perfectly flat and square piece of stock. If the baseplate is perfectly flush, there will be a slight gap between the baseplate and the table top. The chance of that workpiece catching on that gap is far greater if the baseplate is flush rather than _slightly_ proud. I actually think, Deb, that your "gap" is just slightly too proud. However, I must also note that I don't think there is a manufacturer out there that makes a perfectly flat and flush table/baseplate combination that's as versatile as the OakPark system.

Just adding to the discussion


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Hows this for a solution Deb. No back-flip or embarrassment needed from Bob, just something along these lines: We at OakPark firmly believe that the design of our router table is correct, however, because it's obvious that many members of the buying public prefer a plate that is level with the table, we have decided to modify future production in order to give our customers what they want. We believe that there are many people who would still prefer a raised plate and for these people we suggest making a suitable thickness gasket to fit beneath the plate. We at OakPark do listen to our customers.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Hows this for a solution Deb. No back-flip or embarrassment needed from Bob, just something along these lines: We at OakPark firmly believe that the design of our router table is correct, however, because it's obvious that many members of the buying public prefer a plate that is level with the table, we have decided to modify future production in order to give our customers what they want. We believe that there are many people who would still prefer a raised plate and for these people we suggest making a suitable thickness gasket to fit beneath the plate. We at OakPark do listen to our customers.


They send a lawyer to do the listening.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

CanuckGal said:


> Harry thanks for idea! I checked it with the light and the Vernier. I already knew it wasn't flush, but it's only .017 or just slightly more then 1/64 inches or .43mm out. That's not too far from yours.


I hope that you realise Deb that I fitted a shim under the plate for the photograph, normally I have the plates (discs) flush as determined visually rather than with any form of scientific instrument!


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## biggdogg (Feb 4, 2010)

harrysin said:


> Hows this for a solution Deb. No back-flip or embarrassment needed from Bob, just something along these lines: We at OakPark firmly believe that the design of our router table is correct, however, because it's obvious that many members of the buying public prefer a plate that is level with the table, we have decided to modify future production in order to give our customers what they want. We believe that there are many people who would still prefer a raised plate and for these people we suggest making a suitable thickness gasket to fit beneath the plate. We at OakPark do listen to our customers.


Harry, I think that would be a grand idea.

To put this in context for me, you need to understand that I'm a complete router rookie who doesn't even know yet what he doesn't know. But I'm concerned about stepping into a quagmire with the first table I get. So I called a very nice lady called Sandy (I think) a couple of days ago, and she assured me they were aware of the controversy on the forum about the baseplates. She proceeded to patiently explain to me why they were that way. As an aside, I asked her about the relationship between Oak Park and Bob and Rick (I thought perhaps there was cross-ownership or the like) but she assured me that at one time Bob and Rick simply used and endorsed their products. I'm still not clear as to this forum's sponsorship; is it Oak Park or Bob and Rick or both?

Anyway, her acknowledgment that they are in fact aware of the issue (not a problem evidently to them) and that they do look in on the forum talk really baffles me. It would seemingly be SO easy for them to fix and as Harry correctly points out, anyone who really wanted it proud could simply shim it up.

I hope they get it fixed before I buy something else. I do intend to build my own table(s) at some point, but as Pat Warner points out, it's easier to build a table using one you already have so for many buying your first table may be the best bet.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Ed, once you become familiar with using an OakPark table, modified of course, you will almost certainly want to learn what can be done with a router beyond a table. I'm referring to plunge routing using templates and template guides. Once you have become proficient in such techniques you will find no reason to change your OakPark table (modified of course) because, in my humble opinion, tables with all the bells and whistles don't produce results that are any better than a basic one. I can however appreciate people who get more pleasure out of making tools and jigs than actual products (been there done that)
I'm a little surprised that no one has suggested making a template and re-routing the rebate to a suitable depth. This would be very simple to do.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Harry I said it was an easy fix.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

CanuckGal said:


> Harry I said it was an easy fix.


For the benefit of any novices who don't know how to make such a template, simply choose a temple guide and cutter, let us say a 1" guide and a 3/8" cutter, and say the plate opening is 11" x 9" then, using the formula size of template opening = dia. of guide - dia. of cutter + size of opening in the template which becomes:
1" - 3/8" + 11" = 11 5/8" by 1" - 3/8" + 9" = 9 5/8". In simple terms this means that we require a template with an opening which measures 11 5/8" x 9 5/8" and the easy, accurate way to make this is similar to this shot from a previous thread.
Once the template is made, place it over the existing rebate, carefully measure the distance all round to ensure that it's perfectly centred and clamp in position. We now plunge the non running router until the cutter touches the existing rebate, lock the router, and adjust the depth stop for whatever extra depth you require, possiblly as little as 1/16" and away you go keeping the guide in contact with the template.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

No template needed to fix the error, once around the inside of the pocket hole with a rabbit bit/pattern bit and that's done then drill and tap some holes (4 ea.) in the plate for some set screws and it's done..

All that's needed is drop the plate down in the pocket by a 1/16" 
Here's are some snapshots of some bits that will do the job quick and easy.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_dado.html

By the way Harry, you will get a kick out of this one,In the states we have a holiday called Metrics Day it's on this coming Monday in the sates  LOL

====



harrysin said:


> For the benefit of any novices who don't know how to make such a template, simply choose a temple guide and cutter, let us say a 1" guide and a 3/8" cutter, and say the plate opening is 11" x 9" then, using the formula size of template opening = dia. of guide - dia. of cutter + size of opening in the template which becomes:
> 1" - 3/8" + 11" = 11 5/8" by 1" - 3/8" + 9" = 9 5/8". In simple terms this means that we require a template with an opening which measures 11 5/8" x 9 5/8" and the easy, accurate way to make this is similar to this shot from a previous thread.
> Once the template is made, place it over the existing rebate, carefully measure the distance all round to ensure that it's perfectly centred and clamp in position. We now plunge the non running router until the cutter touches the existing rebate, lock the router, and adjust the depth stop for whatever extra depth you require, possiblly as little as 1/16" and away you go keeping the guide in contact with the template.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I discovered something with my table saw today that made me think of this discussion. First off, my preference is still to have the insert flush, largely to prevent binding. I have watched many episodes of the show, and am very impressed with OP system. In the end, I built my own table.

Now back to the table saw, about 6 or 7 years ago I bought a Craftsman "Professional" Job Site table saw (not to be confused with their contractor line of saws). Today a similar saw would go for about $400. It is an aluminum top and direct drive arbor. When I first got the saw the level of precision and tolerance needed was acceptable. As my projects got more complex, my frustration level with using the saw seemed to increase. On the flip side my enjoyment with using other tools, including my router, has increased and have successfully done work with higher degrees of precision and complexity. However, with the table saw, I never felt like I was getting a "true" cut. This thread got me to thinking that maybe it was blade insert as it is rather flimsy and not very flat. So today, I made the decision to use some hardwood and make a zero clearance insert that I could make sure was flat when I planed it down to the proper thickness. When I the insert was basically finished and I was fine-tuning it, I discovered the real source of the last few years of frustration with my table saw. The table itself is not flat, and is infact crowned! And it probably has been since I bought it.

I think the moral of this story, and frankly this thread is we will make what we have work, as I did with table saw with my early projects. Now knowing the issue with my saw, I may find ways to work around this issues. There maybe those who prefer to use a crowned table saw, as I know some people like their table saw fence slightly angled away from the blade. I think the same is true for those who use the OP system. It works well, and for cases where the plate may cause an issue, a solution to work around it can be found.

As someone said in the thread, this is wood working. While we would all like to think everything we do comes out perfect the first time, we all know that in the end we will be bringing out the chisels and the sand paper to get to that perfect fit.


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## gallianp (Oct 13, 2009)

Thanks Bob,

I will now FIX my OP table -- spending my time and $$ to make it function the way I ASSUMED (yes I know) it would come from the factory.. 

I will feel better about the table even it did not need fixing as several have said in this thread..

New router bit, tap and set screws. Hoping my skill level will stand up to this fix ... 

Several have encouraged me to fix the position of the plate. and MANY have been rather nasty about my complaint -- I was hoping that this could be an open and fair discussion of a real or perceived problem.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome Paul


=======



gallianp said:


> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I will now FIX my OP table -- spending my time and $$ to make it function the way I ASSUMED (yes I know) it would come from the factory..
> 
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> No template needed to fix the error, once around the inside of the pocket hole with a rabbit bit/pattern bit and that's done then drill and tap some holes (4 ea.) in the plate for some set screws and it's done..
> 
> ...


You're way is just too bloody easy Bob!

So, tomorrow America goes metric, why else would you celebrate it?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob, I've just had time to study the shots of you're cutters, is there really one shallow enough to increase the depth by only a 1/16" with the bearing resting on the existing edge?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

"why else would you celebrate it?"

It's like George Washington , he is dead and has passed on 

=======



harrysin said:


> You're way is just too bloody easy Bob!
> 
> So, tomorrow America goes metric, why else would you celebrate it?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I appreciate that old George could never tell a lie, and that's worth celebrating but you're implying that America used to be metric!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Yes, The dado clean out bit, it's made to make a 3/16" deep pass the norm..so 1/16" is not a big deal.. it's one of the bits I like the most and use it for many ,many jobs..
or just use the rabbit bit it will take off a 1/16" easy, it will run on the inside edge of the pocket hole.
======



harrysin said:


> Bob, I've just had time to study the shots of you're cutters, is there really one shallow enough to increase the depth by only a 1/16" with the bearing resting on the existing edge?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

At one time tricky dickie almost had it in place but he pass on also..I think we had the metric system running at one time back in the 1700s then we got smart at dropped it.. 

=========



harrysin said:


> I appreciate that old George could never tell a lie, and that's worth celebrating but you're implying that America used to be metric!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Harry and Bob thanks for explaining the fix. I knew how to do it but I didn't think I could explain it as well as you both have.The method I was thinking of was closer to Bob's. 
Paul I am very glad to hear you are going to "fix" your table. I know once you start using it you will be very pleased. 
I still haven't got around to making the new plate for my OP table, but I have a piece of acrylic all lined up. Maybe I'll consider trying to get it flush. I can always shim the OP plate to get it back to that high spot. :lol: :dance3: :blink:


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

If nothing else, this thread has given a great deal of publicity for OakPark router tables, whether they sort out this perceived problem or not probably doesn't matter, peoples memories being what they are, in a matter of weeks, only the name will still be fixed in their minds, the reason for it being there, completely forgotten. As a wise man (or maybe it was a woman) once said " all publicity is good publicity so long as they spell the name right"


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

> perceived problem


That is certainly it in a nutshell.


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