# restoring hand planes



## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

i've been grabbing up old stanley planes on ebay and restoring them. the new veritas and certainly the $300+ lie nielsen planes are fantastic but are out of my price range. cleaning these old vintage planes up is a good option at a much lower cost, usually $50-75, sometimes more if they've already been restored. i finally got a stanley #4 1/2 smoother & found a record combo plane with a bunch of cutters both coming soon. the combo was more a bit more at $120 but has tons of options. a new veritas combo plane is $400 with ONE cutter. i've also been watching videos making your own and might take a shot at making a shoulder plane.
i hadn't even used a plane til last summer but wow this is getting addictive.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

It's a real pleasure working with hand planes. Restoring them sounds like fun as well.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

You might want to get away from ebay, and hit some flea markets, and garage sales. I don't follow plane prices, but sound like you may be paying a lot more than you need to Last time I bought planes was two very nice wooden planes, no restoring needed, for $20 and $25, if I recall right, at a small flea market. I could have gotten some decent condition metal planes for considerably less.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Beautiful shoulder plane Tim. I've managed to get a few good buys on planes off ebay.


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

tom i thought the rust would be hard to deal with but its not at all. messy and takes a bit of time but no big deal. i soak really bad small parts in vinegar. this paul sellers video got me interested. 

mr joat i kinda like recliner shopping but flea markets sound like a good idea.

chuck anything i make wont turn out that nice im sure. young je makes a lot of beautiful stuff


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## thomas1389 (Jan 4, 2012)

Very nice finished product. I'd practice a little more safety around those saw blades, though. You may not keep the fingers you need to turn out such nice specimens.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

@twmv86
Tim - I've restored a few planes myself - will post some pictures later. I've purchased hand planes for as little as $5.00 at flea markets and an older like-new,in box Stanley #4 for $20.00. Ebay seems overpriced. Have you tried electrolysis rust removal? I've done it a few times and works pretty well - lot's of videos on google of the process.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Vince! Good to see you back!! (White snow + green golf balls?)
Another vote from me for for electrolysis.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Great posts. I have a few old planes that belonged to my father-in-law who was 3 months shy of 100 when he passed in 2001. He was a self taught farm boy growing up in Southern Maryland just outside of DC. His family had a farm and they took produce to market in DC by horse and buggy riding on cobblestone roads in DC. Oh the history that man could tell was nothing like what we read in the school books. His recalls had real color and depth. He was quite the accomplished woodworker and I way too busy to take time to learn from him. I was working 60-70 hours a week back then. What a tragedy to have missed out on such a great opportunity. And they lived with us the last 10-12 years.....

So now I have some planes I need to identify, clean up, and put to good use. First to identify them......


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Hey, Vince! Good to see you back!! (White snow + green golf balls?)
> Another vote from me for for electrolysis.


Hi Dan - thanks. No white snow for me - I'm in Florida. Got out of Ontario just before that snowstorm on Jan 19. So..... brown fairways and white golf balls.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

@sreilly - Hi Steve - there are a few websites around that could help you with identification, especially if they are Stanley - here's just one that is a good read:

The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Preface


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

vchiarelli said:


> @twmv86
> Tim - I've restored a few planes myself - will post some pictures later. I've purchased hand planes for as little as $5.00 at flea markets and an older like-new,in box Stanley #4 for $20.00. Ebay seems overpriced. Have you tried electrolysis rust removal? I've done it a few times and works pretty well - lot's of videos on google of the process.



no sir i haven't tried electro method. i'll read up on that ty. i got a #4 1/2 without an iron pretty cheap recently that is really rough and is a good candidate for that. when i first started doing this i never would have bought one this bad, but rust doesn't scare my anymore. you can get these almost pristine with a little effort. i'm gonna make a scrub plane out it i think. i picked up two 2 3/8 irons fairly cheap.
i'm pretty low tech. just use 120 grit paper, wire wheel on my bench grinder or vinegar. 
a new #4 smoother for $20? that just plain stealin:nerd:. i'm gonna have to venture out to a flea market next month. done blew my tool budget for this month. its nice when they pay you to stay home but you don't get as much $
now that i have a couple of #4 1/2's my quest for a #7 or #8 begins


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Tim, That's a beauty...looks like the iron has been sharpened a few thousand times. Must have been owned by a real hand tool hands on woodworker.


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

@vchiarelli hey vince i saw a wood magazine video on electrolysis that said it might take off some of the japaning. have you noticed that happening? i have a trickle charger so i just need to get a hunk of rebar or something.
i started looking into a diy japaning recipe and it doesnt seem to be as hard as i thought it would. just mix some liquid asphaltum and some spar varnish do thin coats then bake at 250-300 and reapply. it may not be as good as original but its surely doable.
so far i havent had one thats lost most of the original japaning but i can see myself trying it at some point


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Tim, That's a beauty...looks like the iron has been sharpened a few thousand times. Must have been owned by a real hand tool hands on woodworker.


thats just the lever cap and chip breaker. it was missing the cutting iron but i hear ya. it may have been used a ton by a dedicated woodworker but now i got it lol. im a hack but i like messing with the stuff. i need to get some oil or shellac on the wood it looks quite parched


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Finding, restoring, tuning and use of hand planes can be one of the real joys of woodworking. There is nothing quite like them. I'd suggest before moving onto the battleship
planes (7&8), find a couple old stanly 6 1/2 and 9 to restore. Small block planes can be the workhorse in any shop. Especially when it comes to "tweaking" things. Find or make yourself a couple of winding sticks. Invaluable when it comes to plane work!! And while your looking, keep an eye out for a quality straight edge, 24" at least, 50" or better if the price is right. Then then 7 and 8 will make more sense. If versitility is what your after, look into a 5, 5 1/4 or 6. Great choice for shooting boards and donkey ear jigs.


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Finding, restoring, tuning and use of hand planes can be one of the real joys of woodworking. There is nothing quite like them. I'd suggest before moving onto the battleship
> planes (7&8), find a couple old stanly 6 1/2 and 9 to restore. Small block planes can be the workhorse in any shop. Especially when it comes to "tweaking" things. Find or make yourself a couple of winding sticks. Invaluable when it comes to plane work!! And while your looking, keep an eye out for a quality straight edge, 24" at least, 50" or better if the price is right. Then then 7 and 8 will make more sense. If versitility is what your after, look into a 5, 1/4 or 6. Great choice for shooting boards and donkey ear jigs.


hey bill. since july i have a 3, a 4, two 4 1/2s, two 5s, 5 1/4 & a 6 and a 110. all are stanleys except for the record combo plane. i was gonna make a scrub out of one of the jacks but will use the lesser of the 4 1/2s now that i finally have one. problem is after restoring they all look great haha. im going to attempt to make a router plane besides the shoulder plane shown above. 
i saw a paul sellers video on winding sticks. planes are something i wish i got into years ago. i guess im better at acquiring them and cleaning them up than using them so far but i do like it


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

@twmv86

Tim, the issue your going to run into with converting a 4 1/2 into a scrub is the sheer width of the blade and how much wood that bad boy is going to try and hog out with each pass. Typical scrub irons are around 1.5" in width and 3/16" thick give or take. If you have ever spent any time with a scrub, you know it ain't gotta be pretty in use, just remove the wood thats in the way of the iron. I buy all of my wood rough cut. Prior to running thru the planer, just about every board see's some amount of hand plane work. Some way more than others on occasion. When I do use the scrub, its a work out to say the least. What you suggest may very well work. I've never tried a scrub that wide. Couple of things I would suggest would be, go with a thicker iron, and be very careful with the radius on the cutting edge. I"d also look into widening the mouth of the plane to accommodate the extra thick pieces of wood thats going to be removed. 

Just my thoughts on the matter, but if you're inclined to build something, build a block plane. Hock offers an excellent kit with a premium iron at a fair price. Router plane would make for a fun project, but honestly, they are easily had and very cheap if you keep an eye out and are patient, especially the smaller versions. 

As far as using them goes, what kind of wood working are you looking to get into? When it comes to acquiring and restoring, that too can be a most enjoyable pastime and quite lucrative at that!!


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

nah i havent used a scrub. i saw how to make one on a paul sellers video and i thought he had used a 4 or a 4 1/2. i'll probably give it a shot but i see what you are saying about it taking a wider bite. the 3 and the 5 1/4 both have a 1 3/4 iron and the jack has a 2".
i was always over equipped for what i produced lol. i used to make things for the house. entertainment center, kids beds ,shelves, toys and stuff. i hadnt done anything since the late 90s but got the itch last year to start back up after retirement. i need to make a couple tables and my wife wants an wardrobe thing she saw, but mostly im going to make smaller stuff, maybe some hand cut dovetails, just something to keep busy. i gave my nephew my table saw, long bed jointer and a bench planer after he remodeled our bathrooms about 10 years ago. the jointer & planer are the only big tools i havent replaced yet.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

My crystal ball sees a brand new cabinet saw in your future...also some traveling.


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

DaninVan said:


> My crystal ball sees a brand new cabinet saw in your future...also some traveling.


nah i got a dewalt on a roller stand that fold up. i dont have room for a stationary anything. everything is on casters. my half of the garage is my tools and my kids use our garage as a mini storage too.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Tim - I've never worried about the removal of japaning - I'm not trying to restore them to original condition, just make them usable and "look nice"

Here's a link to a post I put up about restoring an old Record vise:

https://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/132554-record-52-1-2p-vice-restoration.html#post1904866

And here's a link to a post by Dave @difalkner on electrolysis and restoring a PM jointer - good write-up

https://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/91569-electrolysis-rust-removal.html#post1137937


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

vchiarelli said:


> Tim - I've never worried about the removal of japaning - I'm not trying to restore them to original condition, just make them usable and "look nice"
> 
> Here's a link to a post I put up about restoring an old Record vise:
> 
> ...



wow both those turned out fantastic. thanks for the suggestion. i'm definitely gonna try that.
im restoring for use not collecting but i just thought the japaning was interesting and simple. i thought the original japaning was probably some heavy duty industrial thing i could never do at home but this seems easy enough. i think i'll give it a try if i get one that really needs it. if it doesnt work out theres always tape and spraypaint


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

vchiarelli said:


> @sreilly - Hi Steve - there are a few websites around that could help you with identification, especially if they are Stanley - here's just one that is a good read:
> 
> The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Preface


Thanks for the link, I'll be investigating soon.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Actually this is what I have at this point. The only one I know for sure is the new Stanley 62 low angle Jack plane.

#1 is the collection so far
#2 is I have no idea
#3 & 4 may an edge plane?
#5 The blue one says Ace the other two no marking seen
#6 Spokeshaves and a draw blade
#7 This one I know, a Stanley 62 low angle Jack plane , the only one I've bought new


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

those look really great steve. i'd say the middle of the 3 block planes is a 60 1/2 that bill suggested i look for. the blue ace looks like their version of that. the little stubby guy i have no idea.
im not knowledgeable on wood bodies but ones where the blade comes thru the side might be a shoulder/rabbet plane maybe? the edge guy with the handle looks kinda like a 78? im a noob at this stuff but i love it


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Steve, The wooden plane in your photo, is a skewed rebate plane...which works great for making raised panels (cross grain). The type you show usually has a matched one with the blade bedded/skewed the opposite way. The one you show is used from right to left, usually with a fence either clamped or screwed to the left side. As the plane is used the angle shears well cross grain, and because it is skewed...it naturally pulls/steers into the panel so you would want a fence to keep it from wandering too far onto the panel. for difficult grain you may want a matched one skewed opposite so you could plane the panel the opposite way. The iron is thicker at the cutting edge and tapers thinner upward. To remove the wedge, or to attain a deeper cut just tunk the wedge downward by striking the tang...then tap the wedge again to set it. To raise the iron, generally you strike the rear of the plane.


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

i think the stubby one is a #101


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

twmv86 said:


> those look really great steve. i'd say the middle of the 3 block planes is a 60 1/2 that bill suggested i look for. the blue ace looks like their version of that. the little stubby guy i have no idea.
> im not knowledgeable on wood bodies but ones where the blade comes thru the side might be a shoulder/rabbet plane maybe? the edge guy with the handle looks kinda like a 78? im a noob at this stuff but i love it


Thanks Tim, I'll look in that direction. Cleaning these up to put back into play will be interesting. I had seen some videos, one in particular was done by George at Woodworkers Guild of America and I'm sure I downloaded that video. OK no video but the PDF is attached. I haven't tried this so you're on your own if you do. Looks easy enough. I'm too busy now spending my son's inheritance buying new tools but intend to try this methods. I know the old planes seem to have some pitting but I don't think they are too deep to work with. As for the knives, if they are too bad it may be easier just to replace unless you really like a challenge. I almost gave up on the 1st plane iron as I was about 2 hours into using my course diamond DMT trying to flatten just the top 1-1-1/2" before switching over to course sandpaper and a sheet of 1/4" glass. Should have started with that. I see where Woodcraft has a 12x18x3 granite slab at 1/2 price. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/granite-surface-plate-12-x-18-x-3-a-grade?sku=153108 but that's only a good deal deal if you have a store nearby as shipping will almost double the cost.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Steve, The wooden plane in your photo, is a skewed rebate plane...which works great for making raised panels (cross grain). The type you show usually has a matched one with the blade bedded/skewed the opposite way. The one you show is used from right to left, usually with a fence either clamped or screwed to the left side. As the plane is used the angle shears well cross grain, and because it is skewed...it naturally pulls/steers into the panel so you would want a fence to keep it from wandering too far onto the panel. for difficult grain you may want a matched one skewed opposite so you could plane the panel the opposite way. The iron is thicker at the cutting edge and tapers thinner upward. To remove the wedge, or to attain a deeper cut just tunk the wedge downward by striking the tang...then tap the wedge again to set it. To raise the iron, generally you strike the rear of the plane.


Gary, I'm assuming the wooden plane you're referring to is the one in the second photo? Or is it the one in photos 3 and 4? From the description of how to adjust by tapping I think it the latter, 3 and 4. Thanks for the information.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

From what I'm reading and seeing in videos on the subject of planes there's the "normal" angle, or maybe I should say range of angle, of the iron "blade" such as say 40 degrees but this can be adjusted to your needs or liking simply by what angle you actually sharper and hone the blade to. In the attached Paul Sellers video, which I found very instructive, he mentions the angle is 41 degrees which I believe he also said was his preference but I don't think it was originally at that pitch. Maybe I'm wrong but that was my impression. Plus he actually sharpens the blades without a guide other than the established angle already on the blade and by feel. That truly speaks to his experience. Me, I have a Veritas MKII as my only "feeling" is I'd mess it up. And I've done very little sharpening as of yet but mostly due to the shoulder. Not quite there yet. 2 hours on the course DMT told me that for a good while afterward. Seven weeks out from surgery seems like a long time until you try something like this. Still in the "wimp" stage I think. Give it a few more weeks.....


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

sreilly said:


> Gary, I'm assuming the wooden plane you're referring to is the one in the second photo? Or is it the one in photos 3 and 4? From the description of how to adjust by tapping I think it the latter, 3 and 4. Thanks for the information.


Steve, it's the one featured in photo #4. It also looks like the iron is pretty blunt in the photo.


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Steve, In Paul's video, he uses a guide to establish a 25 degree angle, then on a diamond hones...he raises the iron (by hand) to about 30 degrees to establish the cutting edge, then strops. 


Using this method works great!


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I have a Worksharp 3000, which is wonderful for the initial setup of an iron or chisel, but over aggressive for ongoing sharpening. Generally I give a chisel a few hand-held strokes on a couple of diamond stones after each use. 

Plane irons get hand held sharpening whenever they would benefit from it. All my older blades were sharpened using sandpaper grits up to 4000, laid flat on a slab of glass or the flat of my table saw. I've used guides occasionally, but once the angle and flat back are established, it's easier to sharpen hand held. My take anyhow.


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

i guess i will do the manual method of rust removal today. i never went to get some rebar to try the electrolysis and its 70 here today and mid 30s tomorrow. @sreilly i hear you about freehanding. maybe someday at some point try hand sharpening but i want to get off to a good start and a guide seems the safest way to do that. i have one of the old $15 eclipse style guides that i tried to modify but wasnt thrilled with my results. i almost got a MKII one but i guess im ordering a lie nielsen today. looks like you get fantastic results with either.


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

i got most of the way down to where i wanted but stopped when i saw a crack by the mouth that wasn't clearly visible when i bought it on ebay. usually something like that shows up a bit better but that's the breaks. i was thinking of making a scrub plane with it anyway. guess i cant hurt it any worse that it is lol. it took me about an hour to get to that point but that stopped me in my tracks. i was almost out of 120 paper anyways. time to regroup. i did work on my elipse guide some more while i was outside. i probably still get the lie nielsen but think i can try using the elipse for anything the lie nielsen's standard jaws wont take. then i wont need to get the extra long jaws that cost $35 more .


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Tim- I've got one of those 'eclipse' style guides as well and hated it - found it wouldn't hold irons and chisels properly, allowing them to slip. Purchased the Veritas MkII years ago and never looked back - a couple of years ago I added the MKII narrow-blade head for my narrow chisels - works great. What I like about the MKII is that it's idiot proof, as far as setting bevel angles - I needed that. 

Here's a link:

Veritas® Mk.II Honing Guide System - Lee Valley Tools


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

Yeah I was down to the Veritas and the lie Nielsen. I watched a few videos and on them, one comparing head to head. No doubt the MKII is outstanding. It's deluxe package is the same $ as the bare bones lie Nielsen. I'm hoping I don't need any extra jaws and just have the one thing to keep track of.
I'm just got a #71 off Craigslist. Gonna hit a flea market saturday


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Tim, Any steel can be used as an anode (old lawnmower blade etc.)


I have a bench type belt sander which works well to sand the bottom to true the sole with 80 grit. I them mark the inside for metal use only (so I won't use a dirty belt on wood). In fact I just used it on a Union #60 veneer/cabinet scraper sole and sides. It took about ten minutes.

Nice score on the hand router!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I got a great deal on a 71 off ebay and then my wife got me some extra blades from Lee Valley for it. It does a great job of finishing off grooves that you routered or dadoed and need just a little fine tuning.


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I got a great deal on a 71 off ebay and then my wife got me some extra blades from Lee Valley for it. It does a great job of finishing off grooves that you routered or dadoed and need just a little fine tuning.


 when i was going to make a router i picked up a veritas 1/4" cutter and the sharpening jig, not knowing the 1//4" was all one piece. the #71 has a 1/2" cutter. gonna have to see if i can sharpen those or buy the 2 piece from lee valley. i've seen a few different videos on sharpening . one way hung the bit upside down off the side of the stone and and another one sharpened the bottom edge by raising the back of the cutter on a ruler and tilt the cutter slightly forward as you slide to sideways back and forth. have to like the 2 piece bits especially the plow bits that come to a point. kinda like that.


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

i finally found a #7 that needs a little attention but got it for a good price. i took @TwoSkies57 's advice and got a beauty of a low angle block plane. splurged on a new one though. this one is a rabbet plane too so it kinda kills two birds with one stone. i cant think of any other one i need but im sure i will find one i cant resist. maybe a #12


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

@twmv86 Thats a beauty alright.. Lie Nielsen? To save the knickers, just remove them and keep in a very secure spot so as to make sure you dont' loose em. Then when you need em, they will be nice and sharp and ready to go. As with most planes, tune her up to pull shavings in the .002-.005 range. Whisker thin. Requires much less effort and helps to sustain the edge. 

From here on in, no matter where you go,,, you'll always be "looking"....


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Funny how I have yet to see the Lie-Nielsen or Varitas go on sale. When I asked them about that it is usually their blemish sale on or near Black Friday. 

I've wondered how well a dado plane works on plywood. I can see it working very well on solid woods but maybe not so much on plys?


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

TwoSkies57 said:


> @twmv86 Thats a beauty alright.. Lie Nielsen? To save the knickers, just remove them and keep in a very secure spot so as to make sure you dont' loose em. Then when you need em, they will be nice and sharp and ready to go. As with most planes, tune her up to pull shavings in the .002-.005 range. Whisker thin. Requires much less effort and helps to sustain the edge.
> 
> From here on in, no matter where you go,,, you'll always be "looking"....


yes sir LN. very impressed with it and their honing guide


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

sreilly said:


> Funny how I have yet to see the Lie-Nielsen or Varitas go on sale. When I asked them about that it is usually their blemish sale on or near Black Friday.
> 
> I've wondered how well a dado plane works on plywood. I can see it working very well on solid woods but maybe not so much on plys?





Sales on either of those two are rare and far between no doubt! I think LV/Veritas counts there "free shipping" offers as a discount. I can't say I've seen LN on sale anywhere...thats not to say they don't go on special though, just never seen it. LV I have seen on a rare occasion or two. I've become a big fan of Wood River planes. They are a big three contender and the pricing is much more reasonable. If I didn't have so much invested in a LV collection I'd switch to WR...

Blocks work ok on plywood until they hit the binding agent...then the edge pays the ultimate price.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

It might be a mistake but I'll be in Vancouver and Victoria in early May a couple of days before we deport for Alaska and it seems both have Lee Valley stores. Spend a day in Victoria so maybe I'll drop in if we can. I looked at prices and it's still cheaper if I buy there then with the currency exchange. Of course I'd want them shipped home rather than take them on the cruise. It'll be two weeks before we get back home but it would be nice to see and get a feel for those planes.

I asked the wife about taking her to "a" lobster bake but when she found out we'd have to fly or drive for 2 days it seemed to make less sense to her. I'd love to see Lie-Nielsen's open house and work with their planes. Open house is July 13-15th I think. Sometime in July anyway.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/hand-tool-events/USA/233

Never been myself, but everyone I've read who has been, has had nothing but rave reviews on the whole chi-bang... LN does it up right for this event...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Steve; Lee Valley in Victoria isn't really IN Victoria. It's a good 30 - 45 min drive North to Langford. The good news is you'll be really close to 'Mimac' (Brian) if you decide to drive there.! 
Victoria - Lee Valley Tools


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

sreilly said:


> Funny how I have yet to see the Lie-Nielsen or Varitas go on sale. When I asked them about that it is usually their blemish sale on or near Black Friday.
> 
> I've wondered how well a dado plane works on plywood. I can see it working very well on solid woods but maybe not so much on plys?


here's a video on using a router plane on plywood. this is on a large area and not like a dado for a shelf. i've never seen a dado plane used on plywood. i'd think the steeper blade angle might make it tougher than the router plane cutter. its more like a cow catcher on an old locomotive. 
if you scored the edges of the dado with a knife to cut the fibers i guess a dado/shoulder plane might work. unless the powers out im grabbing my 1617:smile:


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Thanks for that Dan. That may be a problem as we're on a ferry to Victoria for a day excursion to the gardens, yeah I know but it's one of those things married guys do, and then a tour of the town (city). I probably have a better chance when we get to Vancouver but looking at that it's a good drive to the nearest Lee valley Tools from the . Guess I'll need to check when we get there. Looks like maybe 25 minutes, less if you know what you're doing....Have to see what the schedule looks like as I don't think we sail till the afternoon headed to Ketchikan. I mean I am going to the gardens, that has to be worth something right?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

If I know what day you depart on the cruise and which ship, I'll go down to the beach and wave!

https://shipfinder.co/
Seriously! 


Screen capture below is at 1:30PM/16/03/2019
On the screen itself, at the link, putting the mouse on any indicated vessel brings up info about it. Neat, eh?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> Hey, Steve; Lee Valley in Victoria isn't really IN Victoria. It's a good 30 - 45 min drive North to Langford. The good news is you'll be really close to 'Mimac' (Brian) if you decide to drive there.!
> Victoria - Lee Valley Tools


If he's sailing from the Convention Center downtown it might still be quicker to go to the Victoria store than the one on SE Marine unless he's taking the Tsawwassen Ferry over to the Island.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Maybe they're on a tour bus?
_"Driver; could you swing by Lee Valley Tools, please?"_


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

DaninVan said:


> Maybe they're on a tour bus?
> _"Driver; could you swing by Lee Valley Tools, please?"_


You think they might? Of course I'm on a tour bus. I have no idea where anything is in that part of the country. I could ask my driver from the airport to the hotel to make a quick stop but I have a couple of feelings about that and none fair well for me. Both involve my lovely bride. 1st there's no such thing as a "quick stop" at any woodworking store for me and secondly I don't expect my better halve to be "feeling" a stop at anything short of the hotel room and maybe the bar. Probably need a few hours "settling" before mentioning anything about going out somewhere to look at some tools. We get along fabulously but there is pushing your luck..........and then downright stupidity. I guess I could claim a senior moment. Or just plain bad judgment.


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