# First router suggestions (for thickness planing and cabinetry)



## bokubob (Oct 7, 2011)

Hello,

I'm finally moving up in my woodworking ambition, and I need to buy my first router. I have two projects in the near future:

First, I'm making a desk for sweetie, and I need to cut groves for the bottoms of the drawers. I haven't done any edge banding yet (it's made out of baltic birch ply), but I read somewhere that I might want to use a 1/16th roundover bit to trim it.

My other project is to build a thickness planing sled to use a router to cut down three 3' diameter stump sections to make into small tables. I'll need to take off an average of about an inch of thickness on each of the faces, and I don't want to spend my whole vacation doing this.

My funds are limited to under $200 for the router. A 3 1/4 HP Hitachi seems like overkill for the desk (and other smallish projects) but might be better suited for a large planing bit for the stumps. For most projects, I think I'd be happier with a 2 1/4 HP combo kit, like the KM12VC, 1617EVSPK or a 5616-24. 

Would either of these types of routers be a nonstarter for one of my projects?

Also, Many of my tools have been 'reconditioned', but with Hitachi and Milwaukee offering 5 year warranties on new, I wonder if the extra up front is worth it.

Any comments or suggestions would be welcome, I'm pretty new at this.

Thanks,
-Jonathan


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bokubob said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm finally moving up in my woodworking ambition, and I need to buy my first router. I have two projects in the near future:
> 
> ...


Hi Johnathan - Welcome to the forum
I'm a big fan of reconditioned also. Usually if they're going to break, it will in the first month or so anyway.... at least thats the illusion I've been laboring under:wacko:
2 +/- HP should be enough for planeing. I use a Freud 1700 in my Woodhaven sled. I use a 1-3/4" bit but only take off about a 32nd at a time. Should be able to rough saw it to within an 1/8" or so. JMHO


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jonathan

I will suggest you use birch iron on edge banding, it's real birch wood that you just iron on and use the edging tool to clean it up after the glue drys out,it's very easy to do and quick and makes the plywood look good...you can also use the same stain on it just like the plywood..

http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/30653-edge-banding.html

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1266&filter=banding Trimmer
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19726&filter=Edge Banding End Trimmer

http://www.rockler.com/tech/43208a.pdf
http://www.rockler.com/tech/43216.pdf


I will also suggest the combo Craftsman router below, it's a 2 1/2Hp and all the power you will need and plus some..if you get one be sure and get the extra warr. for 5 years for about 25.oo dollars in that way you can walk into any Sears outlet and get a brand new one in 4 1/2 years and with no questions ask or a full refund of your money , you may say how I do I know that, I did it on a 2000.oo tool from Sears ,try that with any other router on the market..


Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more


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bokubob said:


> Hello,
> 
> I'm finally moving up in my woodworking ambition, and I need to buy my first router. I have two projects in the near future:
> 
> ...


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Jonathan
> I will also suggest the combo Craftsman router below, it's a 2 1/2Hp and all the power you will need and plus some..if you get one be sure and get the extra warr. for 5 years for about 25.oo dollars in that way you can walk into any Sears outlet and get a brand new one in 4 1/2 years and with no questions ask or a full refund of your money , you may say how I do I know that, I did it on a 2000.oo tool from Sears ,try that with any other router on the market..
> 
> 
> Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more


That looks like a great router deal!!


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## bokubob (Oct 7, 2011)

Hi John,



jschaben said:


> I use a 1-3/4" bit but only take off about a 32nd at a time.


What style bit do you use? I was thinking something like one of these on Amazon: 

Freud 12-194 1-3/4-Inch Diameter by 3/4-Inch Double Flute Straight Router Bit with 1/2-Inch Shank
Kempston 1044131 Straight Bit, 1/2-Inch Shank, 1-1/2-Inch Cutting Diameter by 1-1/4-Inch Cutting Length

Both of those, with their depth 3/4" or 1-1/4", makes me think that I wouldn't need to take such small passes. (I'm pretty sure I'm wrong, but I don't know why.)

Though the name of this one seems to imply it would be more suitable:

Magnate 2705 Surface Planning ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bits - 1-1/2" Cutting Diameter




jschaben said:


> Should be able to rough saw it to within an 1/8" or so. JMHO


If I could figure out how to saw it that well, it would make this task a lot easier. Short of a two man buck saw (similar in price to a router), I can't figure out how to cut something 3 feet in diameter. 

I could try to convince sweetie that I could get a chainsaw and a bar from cannonbar.com. Their 96 inch "Cannon Double Ender" would let us (from their site) "mount up a couple saws, or a helper handle on one end", and really, that's what marriage is all about. But I digress...


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## bokubob (Oct 7, 2011)

Hi Bob J.

I was planning on using that edge banding, but I've had mixed advice as to if the trimmer tool is worth it, or just causes more problems. So far, I just have a new pack of utility knife blades, and I'll go at it with that.



bobj3 said:


> I will also suggest the combo Craftsman router below, it's a 2 1/2Hp and all the power you will need and plus some.


The Craftsman router looks nice, but I've had trouble finding much information about it. I could only find the reviews on the Sears site. Also I can't find the manual, and from the pictures, I can't tell even what style height adjustment it uses. (no ring visible, so probably a bolt hidden from view?) But I suppose plausible ignorance is fine with a 5 year warranty. :dirol:


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## bokubob (Oct 7, 2011)

Hi John,

Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad to hear from someone who does something similar.



jschaben said:


> I use a Freud 1700 in my Woodhaven sled. I use a 1-3/4" bit but only take off about a 32nd at a time. Should be able to rough saw it to within an 1/8" or so.


I never figured out for myself how to cut something 3 feet wide to any sort of tolerance, without spending more than I would on a router. (I don't have a two-man buck saw or an impressive chain saw sitting around. Turns out you can get 96 inch chain saw bars, but I digress...)

I've been looking at bits described as:

Kempston 1044131 Straight Bit, 1/2-Inch Shank, 1-1/2-Inch Cutting Diameter by 1-1/4-Inch Cutting Length
Freud 12-194 1-3/4-Inch Diameter by 3/4-Inch Double Flute Straight Router Bit with 1/2-Inch Shank

I would assume I could quickly take off more than 1/32 of an inch with one of those. Then, to clean things up, maybe a pass or two with one of these:

Magnate 2704 Surface Planning ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bits - 1-1/4" Cutting Diameter
Kempston 214431 Bottom Cleaning Bit, 1/2-Inch Shank, 1-Inch Cutting Diameter by 15/32-Inch Cutting Length

What type of bit are you using?

Thanks,
-Jonathan


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Trim tools worth every dime you pay for it, you can use a utility knife but one slip and you just wipe out the banding...if it's worth doing it's worth doing it right from the get go..

Router, standard base , Craftsman did away with the ring, on the new models ,one button on the side to free it up so you move it up or down easy and a quick clamp, unlike the old ring type that would jam up with router dust and lock up,,,the Plunge base,works just the Bosch and all the others  plus both can be adjusted from the top side of the router table (built in lift ) I have my share of routers (50+) and the Craftsman is in 1st place with me.. 

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bokubob said:


> Hi Bob J.
> 
> I was planning on using that edge banding, but I've had mixed advice as to if the trimmer tool is worth it, or just causes more problems. So far, I just have a new pack of utility knife blades, and I'll go at it with that.
> 
> ...


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## mrhermit (Oct 5, 2011)

Even though it aint broken you can still walk in and ask for a new one? Or just break it on purpose?


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## bokubob (Oct 7, 2011)

Thanks for the extra info about the Craftsman Bob.

Looking through the Craftsman catalog online, I could finally see the bases a bit better, and saw that the kit includes a case, which is a requirement for me, as I live in an apartment and everything needs to be packed up nicely in the closet at the end of the day. 

Sears seems to be doing a terrible job selling this thing, on line at least. I've found several forgotten corners of the craftsman sites, and several ways of trying to find this router only comes up with a $500 fixed base version. Good thing they have stores.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Jonathan, I agree with BJ that iron on edge banding is a very practical solution and that spending the few dollars for a trimmer is the smart way to go. Sears is not the place to go if you are looking for sales people who know the products. Since K-mart bought them they switched to sales clerks who only know how to ring up a sale. In spite of this the combo kit routers are popular with members who own them. They copied many of the features you find on the Bosch 1617EVS for a fraction of the price. There are two schools of thought on which way to purchase a router. Buy top quality or buy lesser quality and replace as needed. In the long run it will cost you about the same so there is no best choice. Having tried most brands of routers I went with Bosch and am very happy with them. If you can find one the Makita 3612C is no longer in production and I have seen it for $186 which is a steal for a quality 3-1/4 hp plunge router. One last thing; if you do edge band your plywood do not use a bit to round over the edge. Just touch it lightly with sand paper to remove the sharp edge.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bokubob said:


> Hi John,
> 
> Thanks for the feedback, I'm glad to hear from someone who does something similar.
> 
> ...


Hi - Yeah, I think I would pass on an 8 foot chainsaw bar too:fie:

The main bit I use is this one
1 pc 1/2 Sh 1-3/4" Diameter Bottom Cleaning Router Bit | eBay

I also have this one which was recommended by Woodhaven when I got the sled:
Woodhaven - Woodworking Tools, Supply & Equipment

The eBay bit is a little shorter in overall length than is recommended but I haven't had any issues with it and haven't had the need to extend it out of the collet any. 

I haven't used it to take down any rough cut lumber yet though. So far my primary use had been reclaiming wood from old cabinets . Planning layers of paint and finish off to reclaim the old wood.


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## bokubob (Oct 7, 2011)

*Ordered*

Thank you all for your input and advice on the variety of questions I had. There's a bunch of stuff in the mail today, and I'm excited to get going on it all.

First, for the edgebanding. I have 50' of birch edgebanding, and I'll need most of it. Uffda. (I just counted it up on the SketchUp model of the desk.) With all of that, I figured it was worth it to get a Freud edgebanding trimmer. I'm not sure if I'll use the 'bevel' edge option with it, but that would probably be good for the edge of the desk.

Second, I ordered a router. I did a lot of reading on this forum, and went out and handled as many as I could find. In the end, I decided on the Milwaukee 5616-24 kit. Partly because of the hand grip fixed base (this is how I always want to hold a router anyway), partly because of the 5 year warranty, and partly because I was out using my milwaukee sanders, and darn, if those don't feel like a million bucks. Those are partly, but maybe mostly because my wife said "Shut up about the routers! Here, I'm ordering this one!"

Then I ordered the 15 piece MLCS set to go with it.

I'll see about the planing bits later.

Thanks again!
-Jonathan


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## bokubob (Oct 7, 2011)

Mike said:


> I agree with BJ that iron on edge banding is a very practical solution and that spending the few dollars for a trimmer is the smart way to go.


I finished the edge banding part of my project, and it went pretty well. I used FastCap Flush Cut Trimmers on the ends and for cutting to length, and I was very happy with that tool. Quick, precise cuts, no problem! I was using the Freud trimmer on the edges, and it worked well on the small pieces (~12 inches) but I had trouble with longer pieces, where it would sometimes rip along the grain and pull off a part along the edge. I was able to help this by first trimming it mostly down to size with my utility knife, and then using the trimmer. The utility knife was tough though, as it just wanted to follow the grain.

Then I spent a while practicing mortising for my hinges (with my new router!). I made a few mistakes in my scrap wood, but that's what scrap wood is for.

-Jonathan


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