# Table level for DW745



## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

I built a table to house my table saw when I have it in the shop. You can see in the pictures my initial attempt at a leveling platform. It works ok, but is not very precise since the platform is just setting on top of the ends of the bolts. I would like to change it so the bolt is securely anchored to the leveling platform and the bench. I haven't been able to find the right name for the kind of bolt that will work here. What I'm picturing in my head is a machine bolt where one end of the bolt is a T-handle or wingnut and the other end is a platform (like an elevator bolt) where the platform is connected to the bolt by a ball & socket joint. The platform is secured to the bottom side of the leveling plywood turning the bolt from the bottom side moves the bolt up and down (since it's going through the T-nut in the bench.
So that's how I have it pictured in my head, how would you do it? (and what is the hardware called so I can find it to buy it?)

thanks
Everend


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

I am VERY happy to finally be done wiring the table for power. Power is supplied by 12/2 romex with a plug into the garage GFCI outlet. The romex runs along the floor to the bottom side of the table (on rollers), covered by the rubber wire cover that looks like a flooring transition strip.
Once in the table, unswitched power is supplied to two outlets on each end of the table. These outlets are convenient enough to run every other powered hand tool I have, eliminating all the orange extension cords previously criss-crossing the floor. 
The second real upgrade to the setup is the addition of the large shutoff switch. I've had a similar 'master' shutoff switch on the extension chord for a while but that one was so easy to turn on, that I was always nervous about bumping it to turn it on. 








The new master shutoff switch controls the three individually switched outlets. The Saw, Vac and Air can each be shut on/off individually but only if the master switch is turned on. I plan to leave these on most of the time using the big red master switch. They do give me the option to turn off the saw's outlet before turning on the master switch in order to use the vac by itself. (Of course the saw itself has it's own big-red-switch which remains off until I'm ready to use it.) The other two outlets in this gang are always on, not sure yet what those will be good for but better to have too many than not enough.
I used 12/2 MC wire and steel boxes for the runs under/in the table. The MC wire is 12 gauge copper, white, black and green. Because it's in the aluminum exterior the ground/green wire is also insulated. If I were to do this again, I would have skipped the MC and used regular romex. The shielding will protect the wires from damage from hand tools but the way I have it tucked away, it's just overkill. The steel boxes ARE required. The switched extension chord setup I had before (you can see dangling in the first picture above in the original post) used plastic boxes and face plates. These didn't last very long before breaking or working loose.


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Hi Everend I think what you may be looking for may be 'thumb screws'. As for the platform you could insert the 'knoutouts' from the electrical boxes into the bottom of the platform with a forstner bit and glue them with CN. I hope this helps. By the way great job on the table.

Amazon.com: thumb screws: Tools & Home Improvement


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

Willway said:


> As for the platform you could insert the 'knoutouts' from the electrical boxes into the bottom of the platform with a forstner bit and glue them with CN.


 The bottom end is not so much the question as the top end where it attaches to the platform. This idea is similar to what I have since gravity holds the knockouts in contact with the end of the screw. But the link and your suggestion of using the forstner bit got me thinking. A combination of a thumbscrew through T-nuts already in the base threaded into the hub of a shower door roller bearing that is fit snugly into a hole drilled by the forstner bit into the bottom of the platform. I think this will accomplish all my goals.

Shop Prime-Line 4-Pack 7/8-in Dia Flat Edge Nylon Ball Bearing Sliding Shower Door Roller at Lowes.com

this one is only 8-32 but I should be able to find a bearing with a 1/4-20 threaded hub.



Willway said:


> By the way great job on the table.


Thanks!


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

Oh, what does CN stand for?


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Everend said:


> Oh, what does CN stand for?


Sorry Everend I meant 'CA' check out this for wood.

Hot Stuff Special T Instant CA Glue, 2 Ounces - Amazon.com


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## Scott Falkner (Jun 11, 2016)

I know this is an old post, but I found this while I was looking for a table for my saw. Go figure found it on a router forum. Nice table, what I have been looking for, mainly for the reason dealing with the fence clearance. I would love the plan if you have it. I am just beginning with woodworking and need all the help I can get. Thanks.


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

I didnt make plans for it, i just built it on the fly. If you would like any specific measurements or have questions let me know. 
Generally it works well. I've changed how I'm using the spaces so now the height of one is shorter than I'd like. 
I found the wood was not stable enough to keep the table flat so I added a bar of angle steel to the underside of the table and the underside of the bottom next to the casters.


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