# "Newbie" finishing question(s)



## riffin-rich (Feb 19, 2011)

Hello everyone. I'm still acquiring tools and haven't started any projects of my own yet; though, I have been helping a friend construct his built-ins (which we haven't begun to finish yet).

Can you please consider pointing me to the "finishing" posts you believe are must-reads? I know nothing at this point and there's so much material out here, ... I'm trying to get through it all, but I need a little order and prioritization--and any advice you can provide is most welcomed and appreciated! 

Also, worth mentioning, I purchased an Apollo 1050VR sprayer (with all of the tip sets), but I have no idea what I'm going to do with it yet ... I understand I can do anything I want with it and was incredibly impressed with my work when I sprayed a wood door with a black lacquer at the show (it came out very nice for 5 minutes of playing with the sprayer). Anyway, my first project will be a set of built-ins in a 6' x 6' closet. For materials, I'm thinking about using 23/32" cabinet-grade hardwood plywood (oak or birch) from Home Depot ... about $45/sheet. Any recommendations for finishing? At the show (when I bought the sprayer), the dealer had a drawer front he did with Behr Latex paint ... supposedly only 3 coats of paint, with a 320-grit sanding only after the first coat. Wood pores were completely filled-in and it was gorgeous ... probably perfect for a closet. I'm willing to use this technique unless you all recommend I consider something different. Thanks so much!

Sincerely,
Rich


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Nice HVLP unit!

I'm not one to give advice on how to finish..... I know that I would be reading on fiinishing with a HVLP and practicing with that top of the line Apollo 1050VR sprayer. Looks like you will have a finished product that you will be proud of.


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## riffin-rich (Feb 19, 2011)

I'm open to any advice you can share on what to read ... 

Is anyone interested in sharing your experiences on what specific finishes work well on what woods? Especially any advice on HVLP sprayers/spraying?

Thanks so much!
Rich


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Rich,
We have a section on finishing, and in Articles is a little piece I wrote on various aspects of this you may find helpful.
Derek.


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## woodjoiner (Mar 23, 2011)

Hi, Rich
The best advice I can give is to take some scrape material, it don't have to be wood you can use cardboard or any thing that will hold paint and just start playing with it the simplest way to explain is you learn by doing. As a note I prefer to use lacquer mainly because it dries to the touch very fast, therefore it's less chance for dust to stick.


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## riffin-rich (Feb 19, 2011)

Derek, I'll surely look for your post ...

Leon, thanks for the tip. Have you played with different brands? How about specifics on brand, style, and thinning material? And maybe a few pics?

Everyone, I continue to look forward to your contributions to each of my threads. Thank you so much for being so helpful! Sorry I'm a pain in the rear-end with all of my questions ... I'm a bit needy as I'm trying to learn "everything that you guys have learned over your lifetimes from the confines of my couch over a few short weeks." Silly, I know, but I'm doing the reading thing while I wait for all of my toys to arrive. My joiner came in today and I'll pick it up on Saturday. I'm still waiting on my table-mounted router stuff. The Apollo 1050VR arrived this week ... it's in the basement now, still not plugged in. I want to keep reading before I play. ;-) Thanks again!


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## riffin-rich (Feb 19, 2011)

derek willis said:


> Rich,
> We have a section on finishing, and in Articles is a little piece I wrote on various aspects of this you may find helpful.
> Derek.


Derek, I thoroughly enjoyed your post. Thank you so much for taking time to share your knowledge. It is an exceptional read! Sincerely, Rich


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## woodjoiner (Mar 23, 2011)

Rich, I do appreciate the kind words.
I always get the pre-catalyzed lacquer and I used to use Campbell brand however due to the cost I've switched to Mohawk brand with i haven't used much so far. You can check out some pictures of a table I made and finished. The table is small but that's what the customer wanted, It's made out of Brazilian Cherry and Maple Strips within it. 

Check it out at my Facebook page (best wooden things) and enjoy. Again thanks.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

DANGER, DANGER Will Robson, anytime you spray lacquer you must take great care ,Very,very nasty stuff, that's why many of the old timers that use it on cars are just a little bit nuts..don't every use it to clean up tools .. it will soak right in to your hands.. 

========


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Finishing is one of those areas of woodworking where one can either dabble, or become totally obsessed. As Bob mentioned, safety - both personal and "environmental" - is (or, should be) of primary concern. In that regard, knowing the difference between finishes that "dry" by evaporation, versus those which "dry" via "curing" (a chemical process that generates heat) is important, along with the safety procedures (e.g. proper rag disposal) associated with each. 

The "signature" of a finishing expert on one of the other forums encapsulates perhaps the best advice I've seen: "Test your finish on scrap, FIRST, or risk having to scrap your finish."

In addition to numerous good books on finishing, the Homestead Finishing site has a number of helpful articles:

Homestead Finishing Products Home Page


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Keep it off your hands, couldn't aggree more, that's why I have two boxes of Latex gloves in my shop, keeps stains away, and protects.


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## woodjoiner (Mar 23, 2011)

Well put, Bob and Ralph
Safety first before all else, but don't everyone know that?

Always wear proper safety protection and always adhere to all safety regulations at all times that's what I say.

I'm slow but I get there.


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## riffin-rich (Feb 19, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> DANGER, DANGER Will Robson, anytime you spray lacquer you must take great care ,Very,very nasty stuff, that's why many of the old timers that use it on cars are just a little bit nuts..don't every use it to clean up tools .. it will soak right in to your hands..
> 
> ========


I hope you guys aren't thinking, "This dang guy just won't go away!" :sarcastic:

So, a table at Wood finishing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia says that Nitrocellulose lacquer:
Appearance: Transparent, good gloss.
Protection: Offers decent protection.
Durability: Is soft and somewhat durable.
Safety: Uses toxic solvents. Good protection is needed, especially if painted.
Ease of Application: Requires nice equipment. Kick-on products also available.
Reversibility: Completely irreversible.
Rubbing Qualities: Excellent - soft finish.

My silly questions: 

1. Can lacquer be sprayed in a house if the windows are opened (like my home office)? Or is it necessary to do in the garage with the garage doors open?

2. Where would I find out what I need to do to adequately protect myself? Special suit? Special respirator? Special gloves? (or latex okay)?

3. Is lacquer good for ultra-white built-in book cases, and a black built-in entertainment center? If not, why?

4. What other options would you recommend? Why?

5. How would interior latex paint sprayed through the Apollo compare? If we use a classic latex interior paint through the sprayer, we'll obviously need to thin the paint with something like Floetrol or water? (though I think I read something else was better ... I'll have to check my notes). So the question is do we need to apply primer to the wood first? Or should we do something else? Just spray the paint?

Thanks so much!
Rich


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## woodjoiner (Mar 23, 2011)

Personally I like to do my spraying outside when it's not to windy, the use of a respirator is advisable. If you do spray inside your shop it does need to be WELL ventilated with an appropriate exhaust fan, If vapors are allowed to condense very much there is a chance of explosion. That's why I do all spraying outside but after sprayed they can be moved inside provided it is ventilated because the vapors will persist until all liquids evaporate. NEVER ALLOW VAPORS TO BUILD INSIDE THE SHOP!!

Wear latex gloves, a long sleeve shirt, and respirator. One other advantage with lacquer is it will keep in your sprayer cup for a weeks at a without clogging your sprayer up, plus each layer you add will melt into the prior layer. Just a light scuffing between coats is required. On a warm day in a well vented area you can re coat in as little as two hours.

I apologize to any one that feels that the use of lacquer is bad for the environment but I don't have a spray booth or area for one to keep the dust off long enough for other types of finishes to dry to the touch.

On a better note there are water based lacquers out now but I have no experience with them, that may be something you may want to check out.

Again please forgive me if I have offended anyone on this subject. I would hope you will let me know if I do. 

Rich to address your last question I don't know if you can spray a latex paint with your gun, I would think by the time you do thin it enough to spray you will have to spray very thin coats that will require many coats to cover, but I don' know.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Rich - With that Apollo rig you should be able to spray pretty nearly anything you want to. I've sprayed latex with my little Earlex, did have to go to the 2.0 mm tip but it did lay down a very nice coat. I did have to go over it 3 or 4 times but that is pretty much a non-issue as the thinner coats flash off pretty quickly so only a minute or two between passes. Much like using a can of spray paint.


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