# Router for a table, what's a good one?



## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

I have a Craftsman combo kit router that is a strong machine and should be excellent for a table. Trouble is, when adjusting bit height, it will sometimes momentarily release and let the whole motor drop about 1/4 inch, making micro adjustments nearly impossible. It's a design flaw in the way the threaded mechanism works.

So, for a table, where I would want to run everything from 1/8 round overs up to 3 1/2 inch panel raising bits, what is a good, dependable, AND easy to operate and adjust, router?


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Duane, my favorite router for in table use is the Triton TRA001. Has all the power you need and can be operated from above the table without the expense of a router lift. There may be other brands now available that can change cutters and adjust height from above table.

I would be looking at a variable speed, soft start 3 1/4hp router with those features.

The choice is much greater in the US.


----------



## DaveJ (Oct 14, 2012)

*Just compared Kreg/Triton to Jessem/PC*

Hi There,
2 months ago I purchased a Kreg/Triton router combo at a local woodworking show. It is a very nice set up....but I sold and went with the new Jessem router package with the router lift side crank. Why did I sell the Kreg.

The Triton router is GREAT, no complaints about performance at all. But due to all its various safety features, I had the router and vac plugged into the master power switch so I could simply flip the switch and the vac and router came on. But to change a bit, in order to get the router to extend all the way through the table, you have to reach under and turn off the router so the the safty cover moves over the switch, which allows the router to extend and lock the change pin in place. Also although you can adjust the router via a handle above the top, you still have to push a lever on the actual router to lock the movement. Are either a big deal, not at all, but it was not what I wanted.

The Jessem system is great, use the big wheel to move the router above the table, change the bit , wheel it back in place and use the lock beside the wheel and you are good to go.

Also I went back to a proter cable 7518 single speed router, and attached a variable speed knob to the side of my table. This way I do not have to spin a wheel or slide a switch to adjust the router speed. SO for me better.

Now a few comments on both, since I have assembled and used both in less than 60 days.

Jessem advertises made in Canada, but in fact the master router fence and stand where both made in China. I really try not to buy China, and was not happy when I found this out. The Jessem stand compared to the Kreg is junk. Poor quality, poor paint, just not what a I expected for the cost. The Kreg stand is very nice and the casters are excellent. I also actually prefer the Kreg fence to the Jessem although the Jessem is very substantial. The Kreg once you get used to it, works very well.

I believe you could actually use the Kreg fence on the Jessem table as they are the tables are the same size. Oh and the Jessem fence came with missing parts.

So if I knew what I knew now, I would buy a hybrid system.

I would but the Kreg stand which is $20 less than the Jessem, and way better made, I would use the Kreg fence system, but would buy the Jessem router table/lift.

Cost without router about $1000, but would be a great and very safe system, but kinda strange looking.


----------



## PRDarnell (Mar 21, 2012)

James and Dave, thank you both for your reviews/ critiques!


----------



## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Some choices, for all occasions.


----------



## Maroonram (Jul 10, 2012)

If the height adjusting mechanism on your router slips then forget it. Get or make your own through the table lift and regulate your height adjustments from the lift. One of the recent wood magazines just featured such a lift.


----------



## Rinker (Mar 25, 2012)

I agree with DaveJ about the hybrid version and thanks what I did a few years ago before the JeesEm Master Lift II. My older lift doesn't have ,punting holes in the plate and the snugger bars do not extend far enough to get a tight fit in the Kreg table. This has been and still is an issue for me. I am using a Milwaukee router in the lift and am very satisfied with it.


----------



## d-rod (Jul 4, 2012)

Hi Duane

I have to agree with James from Australia. I have a top of the range Festool Router that cost me more than AUD$1,000 but it's no good fixed to a table. That router is designed for freehand work, which it does effortlessly and accurately (thanks to all the attachments). The features that sold me on the Triton were (1) you don't need a router lift - you can raise or lower the bit in the finest of increments via a handle (above the table) or by turning a knob attached to the router (under the table), and (2) with a turn of a knob you can raise the router bit above the table for one-handed bit changes. Changing bits is so easy with this router. These two features are invaluable and make using it in a table a breeze. At least look for these features in your next router purchase. 

D-rod
Melbourne, Australia


----------



## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

*Craftsman router.*



Duane Bledsoe said:


> I have a Craftsman combo kit router that is a strong machine and should be excellent for a table. Trouble is, when adjusting bit height, it will sometimes momentarily release and let the whole motor drop about 1/4 inch, making micro adjustments nearly impossible. It's a design flaw in the way the threaded mechanism works.
> 
> So, for a table, where I would want to run everything from 1/8 round overs up to 3 1/2 inch panel raising bits, what is a good, dependable, AND easy to operate and adjust, router?


Duane, are you re-latching the router after you make height adjustments? The reason I asked is a friend of mine had the the same problem and was trying to set the height without latching the router in place after adjustment. The base latch must be latched before starting the cut. I have the Craftsman 2hp kit (among others) and have had absolutely no problems with it. 

willway


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Yes, I relatch it. It's been this way since I first got it. There's a button near the latch that disengages the gears for quick adjusting the motor height. Because the gears are a 2 piece set up for this button to work, there is a notch every so often in the gear teeth for pins to engage the two gears together again when the button is released. I've watched the gears as I adjusted the depth and whenever the threads that adjust it reach the point where that notch is on the gears, somehow it's able to slip through it and let the motor drop a 1/4 inch. This causes the gears to turn as it drops and it re-engages the threads again after the short drop and that stops it.

It doesn't seem to do this in freehand use though. I've only noticed it when it's upside down.

Because of this, I was thinking of just leaving it as a freehand use router and get one dedicated to table use only. I need it to handle everything though. Up to 3 1/2 inch panel raising bits, and down to 1/8 inch round overs. This will probably mean two different collet sizes need to come with it.


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Oh, and I probably can't do one that's 240 volt. Aren't all 3 HP routers ran on 240? I don't have anymore space available in my 200 amp panel for adding on. But I've read that 2 HP routers won't do raised panels. If this is true then I bought a panel raising set for nothing.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> Oh, and I probably can't do one that's 240 volt. Aren't all 3 HP routers ran on 240? I don't have anymore space available in my 200 amp panel for adding on. But I've read that 2 HP routers won't do raised panels. If this is true then I bought a panel raising set for nothing.


Hi Duane - 15 amp and under in the US are 110V. Look at the Bosch MRC23, Freud 3000, Milwaukee 5625 to name a few of the 3 HP that are 110 (don't pay attention to the HP rating on the Bosch, It's equivalent to the 3HP ones).
2 HP will do raised panel just fine. May just need to make an extra pass.


----------



## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Duane, I believe there is an adjustment on the latch to tighten the clamping action. Once this latch is latched it clamps the whole body of the motor solid, and the gear train and everything else is completely out of play. This is the same system that Bosch uses. I believe a great number of the Craftsman routers are built by Bosch, or at least share the same design. What exact model number is your router.


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Wow, sorry I haven't been back to this forum in a long time. This year has been up and down. Shortly after I became a forum member and started this thread the man we cared for here in our home passed away so life changed a lot for us. 

But I'm back now with a renewed interest in a decent but affordable router for a table. 

I'll refresh my original post so no one has to reread the entire thread. I'm looking for a strictly in table use router. 

Must haves are: affordability above all and I think my price range is $100 to $150 (can it be done?), both 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets, plenty of power for spinning the smallest bits up to panel raising bits, but using 120 volt only power, variable speeds, a good range of up and down depth adjustment, and the ability to attach a vacuum. Above table adjustment would be nice, but unless I misunderstand I think I'd have to bend over below the table to release it anyway so what's the point in raising it from above by turning a hex wrench? 

I don't know why really but I seem to prefer the Craftsman brand, maybe it's the value pricing vs. all the features. I have a Craftsman now, which is nice, but as described previously it has a very temperamental depth adjustment. I use it fine for edge routing with the fixed base and bearing bits, and plunge routing with the plunge base, but it's just hard to adjust in the fixed base with straight bits, either in the table or out. It's a combo kit from going on 3 years ago, model 17543. The motor is hard as heck to get out of the sub base for switching from one to the other, but in fairness I did adjust this by tightening the nut on the release lever and might have made it too tight. However when loose, and upside down, adjusting it is anything but accurate. It will slip backwards about 1/4 inch sometimes when turning the adjustment knob. I think this is why I tightened it up to begin with. It fixed the slipping issue,but now whenever I use the router out of the table with a straight bit for dadoes, and I want to lower the bit, I have to turn the adjustment knob some to loosen things up, then press the base down since it doesn't drop on its own anymore. I use a router bit height gauge to make things accurate. Takes a minute or two but this works. For edge routing I just eyeball the bit to create the look I want. Plunge routing with the other base, depth adjustment isn't a problem here. 

Anyway, I'm not so interested in fixing that issue. It makes a great edge router, and plunge router (I'll loosen the latch somewhat to make removing the motor easier). I'd like a dedicated router for a table now. 

Previously suggested was a Triton TRA001. It is just a bit high for me. What else is there? I checked out a few of the others mentioned but most are over what I'd like to pay. I guess I'm looking for a deal on a gem, if there is one.

In the Craftsman brand I have seen several that look promising. Model 27680, a combo kit, but loads of power, or so it seems. 14 amp, 2 1/2 HP. Being a combo, I could use the plunge base if I decided to. I wonder if it's motor would fit my bases I have now also or are they different? 

On the craftsman.com website I can get model 28190 for a good price, it has a 12.5 amp motor and 2 1/4 HP. Meets all my must haves. 

Also I've seen model 27683, another combo kit, very similar to mine, barely more powerful at 12 amps, but still rated at just 2 HP, same as my 11 amp motor is. The fixed base only version seems to be available at a lesser price, but only about $25 less. Model 02768. 

I suppose if the motors and bases were all interchangeable I could get model 02767, a very basic 1 3/4 HP router with a 9.5 amp motor, use this for edge routing with its base, plunge routing with this motor and my old plunge base, and put my old router with it's fixed base in a table and keep fiddling with the height as I'm doing now, if a 2 HP motor will spin a panel bit well enough. This is very cost effective for me, but is it even worth considering? I do woodworking some and when I do I want it easy, convenient, and fun, but I don't do it enough to justify high cost tools and lots of them. But I also don't want to one day decide I need to mortise some hard oak and find it underpowered in my plunge base either. Mostly I work with pine or poplar so far.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Duane, all the Craftsman combo kits are clones on the basic design of the Bosch 1617EVSPK. Usually priced around $200 there are deals to be had right now such as $50 off some places.


----------



## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Duane I just purchased a new Craftsman 14 amp, 2-1/2 hp # 27680. We also have the # 27683 kit. We have been using the 14 amp in the table only. We have been making MDF raised panels in one pass with no problems at all. Craftsman changed the design on these routers, and they do have the identical adjustment and locking system as the Bosch. You can change bits above the table, which means a great deal to me. The raised panel bit we have been using has a backcutter which adds quite a bit of extra load to the router. It does not even slow down on these cuts. The thing is the total cost right now is $144.49, and if it fails you have a 1 year warranty, and you can take back and trade it for a new one sometimes, depending on the store manager. 

Sears.com


----------



## Round 'n round I go... (Dec 20, 2013)

Duane, keep an eye on Craigslist if you live in or are close to a big city. I picked up my Triton MOF001C, 2-1/2 hp router for $150, new in the box.


----------



## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

While i don't own one, in my opinion the 27680 would be the star of the Craftsman line. The 27683 isn't bad either--but if i had to save for a few more weeks i'd prefer the 27680. Regularly priced at $145-150, can often be had for 10% under that, and at times less. There's been one on Craigslist near me (45 minutes or so) for $75, and the pictures look like new. Dual base (plunge/fixed) gives flexibility so if you can go that extra $25 when you buy it'll save you from going back to pay $60 or $70 for the plunge base later. 

Good luck.
Earl


----------



## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Thanks to all who replied. I'll check those Craftman routers out. I'd love the one I have now if the adjustment wasn't like it is. If they've changed them then maybe they're better now. 

I looked closely at mine today. It seems the base fits the motor too tightly. The adjustment isn't strong enough to draw the motor up or down without disengaging the gears. So basically it will move it just a bit until it gets tight and then the gears will pop apart. Before I tightened the clamp, whenever it would do this it allowed the router to drop some and then re-engage again. So for that to happen it must have fit it a bit looser at that time before I tightened it. Maybe the weight of the motor was what let it slip before. It would raise to a certain point and then release and drop. At the time I tightened it I don't think I fully understood the mechanism so I thought making it grip the motor better would fix the dropping issue. It did, but I didn't realize the problem was in the adjustment itself. So to move the motor now, I have to release the clamp, twist the adjustment, and push the motor by hand to help it move. I think tightening it and leaving it all that time, about a year, has flexed the base to be tighter now even when released.


----------

