# Whiteside Sale



## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

Is 20% off an excellent deal on Whiteside Bits these days? If not, what is?

Also, I've noticed many "Top 10 Essential Bits Lists" that people say are good. Taking one off a 2006 thread on this forum, can you guys maybe provide examples of uses next to each "top 10" item? Maybe having such a list with uses all in one spot would help a ton of newbs out. Especially if there are inexperienced people like me wondering why there appears to be multiple kinds of bits that do the same thing (eg. rabbet vs straight bit, etc.). If already done, could someone please provide a link. Thanks!

1/4" straight bit (1/4" shank) 
1/2" straight bit 
3/8" spiral-fluted up cutting straight bit (solid carbide) 
Rabbeting bit with four bearings 
1/2" dovetail bit, 10 degree 
1/4" roundover bit 
3/8" radius cove bit 
45 chamfer bit, 1 1/4" dia.) 
Three-wing slot cutter, 1/4" thick 
1/2" flush trimming bit, 1 1/2" long cut


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

mtnmaniac said:


> Is 20% off an excellent deal on Whiteside Bits these days? If not, what is?
> 
> Also, I've noticed many "Top 10 Essential Bits Lists" that people say are good. Taking one off a 2006 thread on this forum, can you guys maybe provide examples of uses next to each "top 10" item? Maybe having such a list with uses all in one spot would help a ton of newbs out. Especially if there are inexperienced people like me wondering why there appears to be multiple kinds of bits that do the same thing (eg. rabbet vs straight bit, etc.). If already done, could someone please provide a link. Thanks!
> 
> ...


Hi Dj - My opinion is that if you can get a name brand bit for about the same or less than a house brand, go for it. So far I've had decent luck with the house brands.
As far as the "Top 10 Essential Bits" lists go, there are a bunch of lists around and I doubt any of them fit everyone. The top ten are the ones YOU use, not what someone else uses. For just starting out I usually recommend a 20-30 bit set and after working with that for awhile you will be able to put your own "Top Ten" together.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I agree with John.

My first bits were cheap 15 and 30 sets from a local hardware store.

Once I found which bits I used frequently, I purchased quality CMT bits in those profiles.

I tend to use straight bits (1/4", 3/8 ' and 1/2") and also round-over or ogee bits.


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## Pete_Judd (Oct 19, 2010)

I like Whiteside bits, and last month Western Tool had a buy one and get a second one of lesser cost for free. I spent WAY to much money, and some I had to wait for a week for them to come in. I shopped carefully, and made sure that I was getting almost 50 percent off all the bits.


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## LexB (Apr 12, 2010)

I buy bits individually as I need them. The sole exception to this was when I bought a set of Whiteside bits for my Incra LS-17. The set has six of the eight bits needed (all except the two smallest bits) to make any joint with the templates included with the Incra jig.


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Hello DJ,
A friend of mine explained it to me like this. For the average hobbyist, a Whiteside bit is a lifetime bit. It will take you years and years to dull it, if ever. And if you do, it can be sharpened several times before you reach the end of its life. (There is a shop close to me that charges $5 to sharpen them.) I have bought several Whiteside bits and love them. My shop is not set up yet, so I don't get to play much, but I'm counting the days till I can get going on a more regular basis. I agree with John, if you can get a Whiteside for about the same as a house brand, go for it.
George


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Capt Splinter said:


> Hello DJ,
> A friend of mine explained it to me like this. For the average hobbyist, a Whiteside bit is a lifetime bit. It will take you years and years to dull it, if ever. And if you do, it can be sharpened several times before you reach the end of its life. (There is a shop close to me that charges $5 to sharpen them.) I have bought several Whiteside bits and love them. My shop is not set up yet, so I don't get to play much, but I'm counting the days till I can get going on a more regular basis. I agree with John, if you can get a Whiteside for about the same as a house brand, go for it.
> George


Buying a Whiteside bit is akin to buying a Forrest WoodWorker II table saw blade: the cut is top-notch smooth and the blade lasts (if not abused). 

Typically these sell for a premium. Whether or not the premium is worth it is a matter of opinion.


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

Thank you all for your advice! Very good to know the reference to house brand prices! Also that buy one, get ones DO exist for this brand. I always shop for quality, and prefer American made, even if the price is a little higher. 

My take on quality is that it'll help produce results that will encourage me to keep going. Plus, if I'm using a quality tool, I'll also know it's probly the operator, not the tool when something is messed up. I tend to get overwhelmed when I don't know where to begin problem solving. Taking the tool out of that equation makes solving the problem much more simple to me.

And if I don't use an "heirloom" tool till it's dead, then my kids can use it, and so on. I never had a problem with using my grandpa's old tools, at least as long a they were good ones. ...Now to find them at good prices...

I feel like I ask a lot of everyone on this forum, but can't contribute enough yet. If anyone ever has any carpentry questions, that's currently more my area of expertise, so ask away. For those of you who may laugh at that offer and curse carpenters when trying to put kitchen or bath cabinets in, we stick framed everything with hand selected straight boards, and squared and plumbed everything to perfection.


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

4 more questions (I prefer to buy on sale ahead of time, before the need arises, IF the need will arise):

1) I want to build my own [basically everything that can be wood in a house]. I'd prefer to use solid wood joined into panels. This said, are undersized plywood bits such as below really necessary? I guess in other words, how often does an experienced wood worker who prefers solid wood, come across situations that would be far better off with ply, and need these bits?

(can't post URLs yet, but see the 3 piece under-sized plywood dado set on sale at Woodcraft)

2) Is the below bit too large a diameter to have many uses?

(Also in Woodcraft sales flyer - Whiteside over/under 7/8 dia flush trim bit)

3) Why get rabbet bits vs straight bits?

4) Pending answer to the above question, currently straight bits appear to be the "do all" bits. If this is correct, it appears to me that spiral straight bits would be the "ULTIMATE do all" bits since they can plunge too. Are there limitations to what spiral bits can do vs standard straight bit?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

mtnmaniac said:


> 4 more questions (I prefer to buy on sale ahead of time, before the need arises, IF the need will arise):
> 
> 1) I want to build my own [basically everything that can be wood in a house]. I'd prefer to use solid wood joined into panels. This said, are undersized plywood bits such as below really necessary? I guess in other words, how often does an experienced wood worker who prefers solid wood, come across situations that would be far better off with ply, and need these bits?
> 
> ...


Hi Dj - Dunno how many answers I got but I'm not short on opinions
1) - I have a set of those undersized plywood bits I have yet to use. Had better luck just sneaking up on whatever size the particular piece of plywood was that I have. Doesn't seem like it's the same size twice in a row. As far as using plywood instead of solid wood, we all have are preferences but things like economics and availability tend to interfere sometimes. A sheet of 3/4" oak veneered ply at my HD runs about $50. No idea what 32 board feet of solid oak would cost but I suspect it would be substantially more.
2) That's a nice bit. Up to a point, bits like that bigger is better because they will run cooler and consequently last longer. That one also has a cutting length long enough to trim interior doors at least and probably some of the skinnier exterior doors. 
3) I do rabbets all the time with straight bits but a rabbeting bit usually (at least mine does and most I've looked at do) have a shear angle to the cutters which sorta slices the wood instead of chopping it. Give a smoother result.
4) I do like the spiral bits. I've got a pretty good selection of them. But again, economics jumps in. Spiral bits are considerably more expensive than straight bits so I will opt to use a straight bit over a spiral wherever possible. I also think that they may be more susceptible to breakage as solid carbide is pretty brittle.


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

jschaben, Thanks a ton for your advice! Very valuable and all makes sense!


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

Speaking of WWII blades, they too are on sale at Woodcraft. That place is gonna bankrupt me!

And for what it's worth, back when I needed a TS blade NOW for my borrowed and underpowered Ryobi, my wife (nor I) could not justify the difference in price between a Freud Premium and a Forrest (more than 2x). So, even though I prefer American made, I went with the Freud LU88 R10, because of its AMAZING reviews. It has not disappointed for 3/4 both ply and hardwood, and thinner. I'd like to run a WWII 10 inch 48T just to compare, but if reviews are correct, the price difference, even with sale price, would still not justify. Freud seems to have more technology into their blades too to prevent heat damage on long uses.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

mtnmaniac said:


> Speaking of WWII blades, they too are on sale at Woodcraft. That place is gonna bankrupt me!
> 
> And for what it's worth, back when I needed a TS blade NOW for my borrowed and underpowered Ryobi, my wife (nor I) could not justify the difference in price between a Freud Premium and a Forrest (more than 2x). So, even though I prefer American made, I went with the Freud LU88 R10, because of its AMAZING reviews. It has not disappointed for 3/4 both ply and hardwood, and thinner. I'd like to run a WWII 10 inch 48T just to compare, but if reviews are correct, the price difference, even with sale price, would still not justify. Freud seems to have more technology into their blades too to prevent heat damage on long uses.


Hi Dj - Nothing wrong with the Freud blades. I put the Freud Fusion on my Ryobi and it made a huge difference. I went ahead and put a LU79 on the sliding mitre with no issues there either. Got both for about the regular price of a WWII. I guess I'm not picky enough to justify the cost differential although the MSRP of the Fusion is awfully close to the MSRP of the Forrest. I think deals are easier to come by on the Freuds.


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

jschaben said:


> Hi Dj - Nothing wrong with the Freud blades. I put the Freud Fusion on my Ryobi and it made a huge difference. I went ahead and put a LU79 on the sliding mitre with no issues there either. Got both for about the regular price of a WWII. I guess I'm not picky enough to justify the cost differential although the MSRP of the Fusion is awfully close to the MSRP of the Forrest. I think deals are easier to come by on the Freuds.


Those blades were at the top of my list and was wondering how those Hi-ATB's would pan out after being used for awhile. Not having experience with them, I went with the regular ATB's on both blades. Good to know the Hi-ATB's are proving to last! That puts them in the running if my current blades ever get to the point of replacement. Oh, and I looked up my SCMS blade- I did not get a "Premier" blade, as "premier" corresponds to the Fusion blades only. I went with the classic LU85 R12 vs. the Forrest Chopmaster. Very happy with the results at the price I got. I am still curious as to if the 80 tooth geometry and raker on the Chopmaster cuts as smooth and yet aggressive as the 96 teeth on the LU85.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

mtnmaniac said:


> Those blades were at the top of my list and was wondering how those Hi-ATB's would pan out after being used for awhile. Not having experience with them, I went with the regular ATB's on both blades. Good to know the Hi-ATB's are proving to last! That puts them in the running if my current blades ever get to the point of replacement. Oh, and I looked up my SCMS blade- I did not get a "Premier" blade, as "premier" corresponds to the Fusion blades only. I went with the classic LU85 R12 vs. the Forrest Chopmaster. Very happy with the results at the price I got. I am still curious as to if the 80 tooth geometry and raker on the Chopmaster cuts as smooth and yet aggressive as the 96 teeth on the LU85.


Hi DJ - I went with the LU79 blade for the lower hook angle, 2*. 85 has a 10* hook which will want to pull itself through the stock. Don't want a bunch of carbide teeth chasing me around:bad:


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