# Router Plate Setback from Front of Table



## tryingtokeepmyfingers (Jun 3, 2008)

Howdy Folks... I have been a member here for a while and I built one table already that I did not really like... I have started a new table but before I cut a hole for the new plate I wanted input on how far back from the front edge of the table should it be set back

so everyone is talking Apples to Apples the mesurement I am looking for would be from the centerline of the router plate to the front of the table

example I got a plate that measures 9 1/4 deep so 1/2 of that is 4 5/8 so if I set it back 8 inches then it would be set back from the front 12 5/8 inches

I measured the jessum - pinacle - and kreg tables at wood craft and they seemed about 12" 

so should I go deeper then this
if so how much 

laying it out again 15" seems about right but I am wondering if that is too deep and if I should bring it to "12 or should it be deeper... overall the table I am building is 36" wide and 48" deep 

thanks for any help 

i really thing we need just a Table building category I would have helped me over the last 2 years


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Fingers,

I would recommend the setback roughly halfway from the front to the back. This will give you good stock support on the infeed and outfeed of the cut.

I think you should take a good look at what you don't like from your last table. The first thing I found I did wrong from my first router table was to put the plate right in the middle... It limited how far I could get the fence from the bit.

Table top #2 is the oak park top, and I like the plate offset to the one side. I don't have a miter track, I have my featherboards clamped to the top. If you're going to mount a track or other accessories, you might need to move your plate a bit to have enough support for them in the table.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Fingers:

My table is 2'x4' and the bit is perfectly centered 12" from three edges and it's way too far away from a working edge. I don't know how big your table is but I would suggest you offset the centre of the bit so you can work from three edges at different distances from an edge. I would suggest (if you can) 9" from one edge 12" from another edge and 18" from another edge. Remember that your in-feed and out-feed is also going to need consideration.



tryingtokeepmyfingers said:


> Howdy Folks... I have been a member here for a while and I built one table already that I did not really like... I have started a new table but before I cut a hole for the new plate I wanted input on how far back from the front edge of the table should it be set back
> 
> so everyone is talking Apples to Apples the mesurement I am looking for would be from the centerline of the router plate to the front of the table
> 
> ...


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

tryingtokeepmyfingers said:


> Howdy Folks... I have been a member here for a while and I built one table already that I did not really like... I have started a new table but before I cut a hole for the new plate I wanted input on how far back from the front edge of the table should it be set back
> 
> so everyone is talking Apples to Apples the mesurement I am looking for would be from the centerline of the router plate to the front of the table
> 
> ...


Hi - kinda figure the center of the table is probably the best choice. Front to back, you need to consider front support long stock/cross grain work vs. available fence travel support. Right - left you are considering infeed/outfeed support. My logic is that while the center of the table may not be the best for all possible combinations, it won't be the worst of any possible combination.
Like Doug said, what didn't you like about your old table?


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## tryingtokeepmyfingers (Jun 3, 2008)

jschaben said:


> Like Doug said, what didn't you like about your old table?


well the main thing was I made the table to be a extension wing on my contractor table saw and I want one that it free standing on a rolling cabinet instead. I hate being stuck to my saw.... 

second I did not like the first plate I bought rousseau router plate and I did not like it so this time I got a I got a Incra plate 

I put the miter track too far away from the plate

This time I have the incra plate a triton 3 1/4 router and a incra 25" LS system and a woodpecker super fence.... so I think I have everything I need I just need to put it together now and make it all work... 

I have the two sheets of 3/4 mdf glueing so the build process has started


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

tryingtokeepmyfingers said:


> well the main thing was I made the table to be a extension wing on my contractor table saw and I want one that it free standing on a rolling cabinet instead. I hate being stuck to my saw....
> 
> second I did not like the first plate I bought rousseau router plate and I did not like it so this time I got a I got a Incra plate
> 
> ...


Hi - sounds like a sweet setup. Incra plate is pricey but very tough to beat. I just put one in mine. I haven't used the LS system but it looks like a great setup. I almost never use a miter guage per se, but use the miter track a lot for feather boards and jigs so it needs to be no more than 6" from the centerline on mine. 
Good Luck


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## tryingtokeepmyfingers (Jun 3, 2008)

jschaben said:


> Incra plate is pricey
> Good Luck


The Extra inserts are what I have not bought yet.... They are what seem overpriced too me



jschaben said:


> the miter track a lot for feather boards and jigs so it needs to be no more than 6" from the centerline on mine.
> Good Luck


Yea I thing about a 3/4 of a inch gap from the bottom of the plate to the start of the miter track was about the distance that should work


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

tryingtokeepmyfingers said:


> The Extra inserts are what I have not bought yet.... They are what seem overpriced too me


Can't disagree there but I did go spring for them. After I got a look at the plate, didn't see much of an alternative as I do like to keep the bit choked down. Didn't see any way I could duplicate them with the equipment I have. Not much finesse to a gas axeh34r:


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It looks like I am alone here, but I put my insert very close to the back of the table so that I have more support for larger pieces. I can also put the fence on the other side of the insert if needed for a routing operation other than on an edge. 
In my opinion, a mitre sled works better than a mitre track, as you are guaranteed that the fence and sled are at 90 degrees even if the fence is not parallel with the table. Also, the sled acts as a backer plate to help eliminate tearout. I usually just use a 6-12 inch piece of mdf scrap that I have squared up as a sled. I just hold the piece against it with one hand and use the other hand to push. Not very fancy, but very cheap and very efficient.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

tryingtokeepmyfingers said:


> Howdy Folks... I have been a member here for a while and I built one table already that I did not really like... I have started a new table but before I cut a hole for the new plate I wanted input on how far back from the front edge of the table should it be set back
> 
> so everyone is talking Apples to Apples the mesurement I am looking for would be from the centerline of the router plate to the front of the table
> 
> ...


I don't think there is a magic measurement here as it depends on what you use your table for. For cabinet work I would favor a deeper setback as some parts can use some extra support in front of the fence as well as before & after the cut. If installing a miter track just make sure you have it set close enough to use your accessories. If you still have the table in your saw build the new table to handle operations that are different than your first table.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Another vote for "it depends" insofar as the plate location. The bit should be far enough back to give good support to the typical stock size _you_ are working, and far enough forward to be convenient for the length of your arms and to accommodate your fence arrangement. About the only time I place the fence well behind the bit is for doing dados for box bottoms, and that sort of thing. If you do inverted template routing with a guide bushing, that's another consideration.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

Just my 2 cents 

Table top plate,, the center hole 8" or 9" from the front edge and a little bit off center of the top..

Many forget they can flip the fence around to get a bigger foot print for the bigger items, that's if you didn't hang all the junk off the back side, if you like doors on your cabinet you can put two doors in place so you can get to the router from the back side.
Just pop out the router and drop in right back in the pocket hole in that way all the controls are right in front of you..

The vac. hose can come in from the side, if you like drawers in your cabinet just make one or two of them just a litter bit short so the hose has room behind them..or just a simple wood channel to keep the dust out of the drawers.

If you want tee track, put it on the front edge of the table top but use the dual type so you can use it for many items ..not just one type.. plus no slot needed just a nice rabbit so you can adjust it to be right in line with the fence if needed..plus not flat 
with the top just a little bit lower (1/32" )

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