# A basic bookcase using biscuit joints



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*My darling wife, bless her, recently decided to re-arrange the room that we use as an office and I must agree that it's far more convenient this way. There was just one problem, the bookcase, made in 1970, out of teak veneered high density particle board with 1/2" Teak edging was 6'3" wide, far too wide to stay in the office so I was asked (actually told) to make one to fit. In the past, on decent size projects I used dowels, dados and ocassionally, screwed together using plastic stoppers in the countersunk heads. This time I decided that biscuits would be the fastest method, and whilst I'm no engineer, I'm quite certain that there will be no problem strength wise so here is a photo-shoot of it's making. The first four shots are of the preparation.
*


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The last shot is of course of the redundant bookcase which is 6' 3" wide against the 3' 7" of the new one.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Beautiful work, Harry!


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## 01stairguy (Apr 18, 2010)

she looks beautiful


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice job Harry

I didn't know Australia had books  if you know what I mean... 

Ping/Pong


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harrysin said:


> The last shot is of course of the redundant bookcase which is 6' 3" wide against the 3' 7" of the new one.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Nice job Harry and excellent write up as usual. Too bad about the old book case, it still looks quite usable.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

ya got skills Harry, no doubt about it!!!


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## BearLeeAlive (Mar 22, 2010)

Looks great, Harry.


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## novice wood guy (Jun 30, 2010)

Harry, thanks for taking the time to post the details as what your goal was. It looks beautiful. Hope to get there someday with my skills, for now paint has to cover my lack of finishing skills and woodworking skills for that matter.

By the way, I noticed you have a PC biscuit cutter. what kind of biscuits do you use. I bought a bunch of Bosch at lowes, but find them to be a loose in the slots, so I tend to pocket screws with glue and then remove the screws after the glue has set 24 hrs +.

Mike


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Nice!
What's the finish? it reminds me of the color my parents have on their kit cabs. Deep and rich.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Nice job Harry
> 
> I didn't know Australia had books  if you know what I mean...
> 
> ...


We certainly do Bob, but they all have lots of pictures!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

novice wood guy said:


> Harry, thanks for taking the time to post the details as what your goal was. It looks beautiful. Hope to get there someday with my skills, for now paint has to cover my lack of finishing skills and woodworking skills for that matter.
> 
> By the way, I noticed you have a PC biscuit cutter. what kind of biscuits do you use. I bought a bunch of Bosch at lowes, but find them to be a loose in the slots, so I tend to pocket screws with glue and then remove the screws after the glue has set 24 hrs +.
> 
> Mike


My thanks to everyone for their kind comments.
Mike, as for paint finishing, been there, done that, most of my early projects were made from chipboard edged with pine that I ripped on my radial arm saw (didn't have a table saw in those days) and finished with paint, sometimes brushed on, sometimes sprayed. My biscuit jointer is a low cost GMC (company now defunct) and does everything asked of it perfectly so I see no need to spend hundreds of dollars on one unless it's going to be used professionally. As for biscuits, I don't choose any particular brand, as far as I know they're all made from beech and they do vary in thickness, in fact for the bookcase I had to sand a few as they were too tight. I would suggest that you cut a couple of slots in a piece of scrap and glue in your loose biscuits, I'll be surprised if they don't swell to become a good fit. After about an hour, gently pull on the biscuits to see if they're tight or simply come straight out.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Nice job Harry and excellent write up as usual. Too bad about the old book case, it still looks quite usable."




Deb.Marlene wanted me to break it up and put it on the kerb for this weeks non-green rubbish collection but I too felt that it still had life left in it so next week I'll post it on Gumtree for $50.00 and if it doesn't sell, then I'll break it up!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Nice job Harry
> 
> I didn't know Australia had books  if you know what I mean...
> 
> ...



BJ,

I think this Aussie bashing is getting out of hand.....ROTFL....

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Harry,

Well presented, as always.

Marlene is lucky to have found you.....

James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Ghidrah said:


> Nice!
> What's the finish? it reminds me of the color my parents have on their kit cabs. Deep and rich.


I used five coats of Danish oil applied with a folded lint free piece of rag, leaving a few hours between coats. Before each coat I wiped it down with a tack rag. The final coat was left to harden for two days, after which I rubbed the outside with fine wire wool lubricated with wax furniture polish until a nice shine was obtained. for the insides I only rubbed until the surfaces were smooth with only a semi-shine. Experience has taught me that when the Danish oil or polyurethane is going to be finished with wire wool, at least four coats, but better still five coats ensures that the wire wool doesn't go through to the wood!


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Nice Harry. At least you are doing something. All I do is oil my recliner, right Glenmore?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Dave my dear friend, you would make me extremely happy if you too would start making use of that enormous pole barn, the likes of which most people can only ever dream of having as a shop with heaps of room left to restore cars and motor cycles.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Harrysin,

I love the look of Tung oil and try it on each new type of wood I get a hold of to see if it enhances it, 

I've kind of experimented with the use of steel wool instead of sandpaper with Tung oil for a couple yrs., however I don't do enough projects using them. Some recent stuff I read said not to use wool on oak, water based poly and paint. Oak tannins rusting filament remnants. But I've used it heavily on the last couple 3 oak projects and never saw any discoloration. I guess I got all the filings, and probably a good idea I read the info after instead of before.

I always used 000 and 0000 and sanded between coats to get rid of bubbles and welts and I guess sort of level the field. I'm wondering if I should have waited till the last coat like you mention.

I also used 0000 testing on the treasure chest bottom between the oil based clear coats. Regarding bubbles and leveling I did get much better results with the china brush and warmer air temps but still saw some rippling, in particular at the edges of the box, (box sides extend down a 1/4" below floor of box) so I still used the 0000 between coats. 

Maybe I should have waited till the last coat before rubbing?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James

I will agree but I need to poke Harry now at than to let the hot air out or he will not get his hat on..he is so good with his projects and photo shoots. 
just trying to keep his feet on the ground..  and keep the projects coming..

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jw2170 said:


> BJ,
> 
> I think this Aussie bashing is getting out of hand.....ROTFL....
> 
> James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi James
> 
> I will agree but I need to poke Harry now at than to let the hot air out or he will not get his hat on..he is so good with his projects and photo shoots.
> just trying to keep his feet on the ground..  and keep the projects coming..
> ...


I agree, Bob. (about the projects and photo shoots)

But don't tell Harry, I still want him to make me a cup of tea in October.....

:yes4:

James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Ghidrah said:


> Harrysin,
> 
> I love the look of Tung oil and try it on each new type of wood I get a hold of to see if it enhances it,
> 
> ...


Ronald, I haven't used Tung oil as such, but Danish oil does contain Tung oil "and other special ingredients", at least the "Rustins" that I normally use does, however, after three coats I ran out of it and rather than make a two hour round trip, I bought Feast Watson Danish oil timber finish which claims that it contains "a blend of penetrating oils & resins". I was NOT happy with it, I suppose that I've been spoiled and that the old TV add is true "oils aint oils"! As for rubbing down between coats, I waited a day after cleaning the shed for any residual dust to settle and just wiped each dry coat with a tack rag and after only a light rub down with wire wool (I normally use 0000 but was out of it so bought a bagful of "fine wire wool" locally with wax polish, the inside and shelves were completely smooth, the more you rub, the higher the shine.
When I use Danish oil on small projects, I apply the first coat with a brush to ensure that a decent thickness gets into all corners where a cloth would miss, further coats are applied with a lint free rag.


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## Dereklee (Jul 15, 2010)

really a beautiful job!
and thanks for your advice for us newbies. I'm just paying all my efforts to try! :moil:


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Dereklee said:


> really a beautiful job!
> and thanks for your advice for us newbies. I'm just paying all my efforts to try! :moil:


Thank you for your kind comments Derek. I/we go out of our way to help and encourage newcomers, however you may have noticed that I seldom if ever get involved with members who, for whatever reason are not prepared to include a first name and country/city of residence. It also helps when producing projects for the forum to know what level of experience and available tools the member has. It would be nice and to YOUR advantage to add a few more details to your profile.The occasional photograph showing what you're making from time to time would always be well received.


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## PaulH (May 30, 2012)

Hi . Great job, looks wonderful. In image 13 on first batch what are the brass thingy's in the box on the left.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Those are brass set-up bars. Square stock, my imperial set is 1/8", 3/16", 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". Use singly or stacked to set the depth of cut, distance from fence and so forth. Brass is stable, yet soft enough to be less damaging to carbide teeth in an impact (accidental impact that is). 

earl


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Exactly as Earl has described. Just to prove that I'm not totally one eyed about metric, those set-up bars are IMPERIAL! I often mix and match metric and Imperial template guides and bits in order to obtain a specific offset.


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## PaulH (May 30, 2012)

harrysin said:


> Exactly as Earl has described. Just to prove that I'm not totally one eyed about metric, those set-up bars are IMPERIAL! I often mix and match metric and Imperial template guides and bits in order to obtain a specific offset.


Thanks gents, I must get me a set.


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