# Router Lifts -



## Rob1 (Mar 6, 2009)

I am a DIY weekend warrior. My obsession with woodworking keeps getting stronger. 

I am fairly new to this forum but I have noticed many people do not use a lift system. I got the Rockler router lift for my PC890 series router about 2 years ago. I built my table, and boxed in the lift and motor. I added a dust port to connect my shop vac. At that time when you added up all the extras needed to do above table height adjustments the cost of the lift wasn't too bad. In soft wood and plywood 95% of dust goes into the vac. Routing hardwood cross grain 50% goes into the vac. 

To change bit I pull the plate/lift and motor out the top, make the change, and drop it back into the opening. Height adjustments from the top with provided crank arm. This is very precise and minute adjustments are easy.

This leave the fixed base and plunge bases available for portable routing operations. 

So why aren't more people using a lift system ?


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

my router came with 3 bases , plunge d-handle and regular fixed. i was lucky and no lift was needed


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Robert, speed in making set ups is the main reason most people do not use lifts. Consider you are shelling out more money to set up slower? Most people lean over to eyeball the bit height setting anyway, and in this position it is very easy to micro adjust your router. Old technology routers that require the motor to turn in the housing for height adjustments are a good case for owning a lift. Most brands have implemented variations on the Bosch 1617 height adjustment for their combo kits, and these models usually offer above the table height adjusment.(like your 890 series) Even the newest fixed bases from Bosch do this although it is not needed or very useful.
Set up time is something I am happy to reduce, so it is highly unlikely that I will ever use a lift. But using a lift is a personal choice. If it makes you more comfortable then go with it. There is no wrong way to enjoy routing as long as you follow safety guidelines.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rob

I have my share of routers and router tables,,at 1st. I didn't think I would like the lifts but as time goes on I like them more and more,,it's a very quick way to set the bit height or to change the bit out from the top side of the table,,,many times you just don't want to take the time to pop the router out the top side, with the lift you don't need to..many times you just want to move the bit up or down by .010 or so and the lift makes it so easy, to me it's like having power windows you don't need them but it sure is nice when you have them..in a rain storm ...and once you have them you want them in all the cars and trucks you have...
Many have router cabinets with doors on them and the door is always open to get to the router the norm and with the lift you can leave the door close almost all the time..just one less thing in your way.

As far as setting up the bit, it's so quick no need to put your hand under the top and play with the router,many take out the springs to make it easy to lift the tank of a router ,the lift takes that error out real quick..

I will say I like the routers that come with them build it,,,why pay extra for something you can get for free..

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Rob1 said:


> I am a DIY weekend warrior. My obsession with woodworking keeps getting stronger.
> 
> I am fairly new to this forum but I have noticed many people do not use a lift system. I got the Rockler router lift for my PC890 series router about 2 years ago. I built my table, and boxed in the lift and motor. I added a dust port to connect my shop vac. At that time when you added up all the extras needed to do above table height adjustments the cost of the lift wasn't too bad. In soft wood and plywood 95% of dust goes into the vac. Routing hardwood cross grain 50% goes into the vac.
> 
> ...


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Mike the Moderator,
I beg to differ, I bought my lift for precisely the time saving it provides in bit changes and set-ups.
I no longer pull my router out of the table, bit changes and height adjustments are from table top.

Old,
Open door, push up on router, partially lift out, release cable from hook, (keeps cable from interfering with dust and chip collection), unplug router , set router on table, release plunge lock to lower router from base, release and change bit, set bit height, plug router lower router to hook cable, lower router into table. close door.

New,
Unplug router, crank motor up till insert lifts off base, remove insert, release and change bit, replace insert, lower motor to zero out bit to insert, reset elevator gauge to zero, crank bit to height.

I save on average 40 seconds for bit switching on crank-ups over pulling the router out. I never timed set-up but I figure there's a minute plus there. The elevator gauge allows me to quickly and accurately return to previous settings. 

I no longer hold the plunge lock lever open and fight the plunge springs while holding a previous profile against the bit to line it up.

I jot down elevations at mock-up and blow through each aspect during a run.

I know the cost of the lift and router is high, if the lift and router continue to perform in its current capacity the time savings during operations will surpass the cost in about 1 1/2yrs.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

To me, the lift vs. no lift question is rather like blond vs. redhead. Some folks like lifts, others see no benefit - at least no benefit worth the cost of the lift.

I'm in the latter camp. I have one router that is dedicated to the table, and others that do hand-held work (fixed and plunge bases). The way my shop is arranged, and the placement of the lighting, it's easier _for me_ to see adjustments and such by removing the plate and router from the table. This also ensures that the router is unplugged from the stub cord attached to the paddle switch on the front of the table. With a lift, I might be tempted to simply leave it plugged in. 

But, my personal preference doesn't mean that lifts aren't useful to others.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Ronald, I am glad to see someone disagree with me on the speed of set up issue. I have yet to see a set up where a lift made for quicker adjustments, but this does not mean I am correct. I would really like to see photos of your set up. The forums are for sharing information so please do. If you have watched any of the Router Workshop shows you know how quickly Bob and Rick do their set ups. Using the fixed base on a Bosch 1617 with it's 3 rough adjustment and micrometer settings I take slightly longer, but an insignificant difference I am happy to put up with for the cost savings. My PC 7518 is another story. I seldom use it because of the amount of time for set ups. On this old technology router a lift would be an improvement. I think the majority of members use routers in the 1-1/2 to 2-1/4 HP range, and will be happy to set up a poll to see. If you have a better way I am willing to listen and learn. I have only seen two lifts in operation and I watched the cranking operation for adjustment and know it takes me about a third as long. Perhaps your method is more efficient? I have an open mind.


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## DPLRBruno (Mar 12, 2009)

Hi Robert. I have a PC 7518 mounted in a Incra lift. There is no need to remove the router from the table to make bit changes with most lifts or plates, here's why. Router plates has openings large enough for the large 3" panel bits so getting wrenches into the opening isn't a problem. The PC routers has two 1 1/8" collet nuts. They (Porter Cable) makes bent wrenches specifically for changing bits without raising the bit up or taking the router out of the table. If you go to Sommerfeldtools.com he sales the wrenches for about $14.00 each. You need two of them. I rarely ever have to raise my router up for the bit change. Simple and fast, period.
Hopes this helps.
Bruno


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## SteveSawDust (Mar 18, 2009)

Gotta admit, I love my lift system. Bought the Jessem series about two years ago. Don't think I'll go back to the "old way"....


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

My router can be adjusted from above the table and lifts high enough to change bits, but what I usually do is unplug and remove the router so I can work on it on the bench. I like doing this because of he convenience of the operation. 

Of course my router is out side the cabinet and is easy to reach. The disadvantage is that there is more dust from below, but by far the majority goes into the shop vac.


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

Mike said:


> Robert, speed in making set ups is the main reason most people do not use lifts.


I do not have a lift and for the price of a good one, won't ever have one.
But, if this is a hobby, what does speed of set up matter?
I just enjoy tinkering in the shop while actually making something that I'm proud of. If I was running a production shop I understand time is money.
Just my opinion FWIW.


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## Rob1 (Mar 6, 2009)

Thank you all for your responses.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rob

You're Welcome for my small part..

I did go a little bit over board with the lift,,I ran into a error with them, sometimes the hole in the top is coved up by the stock, so I copied John's power lift, that took care of that error... 
It's a easy fix that any one can do 

http://www.routerforums.com/99948-post23.html
http://www.routerforums.com/100137-post33.html
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/11854-circle-jig.html

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Rob1 said:


> Thank you all for your responses.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rob

You ask how can the circle jig be used *without* the power lift..

You just need to drill a hole for the crank in the base circle board jig...I
put the lift on the left side so I have the room to put the hand wrench in easy.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Mike the Moderator,
I'll be happy to post pics of my table, but I'll need another day, I have a bunch of post sleeve glue-ups in the mix, and the table is doing support duty. My shop is very small and at the moment so full of stuff, junk debris and saw dust a total mess. Lastly, my dehumidifier froze up on me, (literally, never happened before) normally I clean it out twice a yr. This winter must have produced tons of sawdust that caked the radiator. I have a 3"X12"X15" solid block of ice with a radiator center, kind of like a tootsie pop.


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## Barry99 (Feb 10, 2009)

Bob, I have a Craftsman combo and if I use in table, I can adjust the bit heigth with an allen wrench through a hole in the plate. Is this what a lift kit is used for?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Barry

You bet, that's why it's setup that way  ,you can pick up some hex key stock and put some heat to it and bend it to a " Z " then you have a crank for your router table..  two small roll pins with some small washers will let the handle spin..
If you don't want to make your own just pickup a long tee handle type.

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Barry99 said:


> Bob, I have a Craftsman combo and if I use in table, I can adjust the bit heigth with an allen wrench through a hole in the plate. Is this what a lift kit is used for?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Roger, a very important part of routing is making sure you have a good set up. Once your set up is done and you have tested it for your application the actual routing is usually a very short time. Even in a hobby if you can reduce the amount of time making the set up you have more time for routing. This is why some people have an extra router left in a spare table just for doing round over's. The point I was trying to make was this: If I can set up my router 3 times faster as is, why would I spend a couple hundred dollars for a lift? I would much rather spend the money on bits or wood. I am not being critical of router lifts, many people like them. They are priceless for those with limited mobility and enable them to perform tasks that might otherwise be very difficult. Routers that adjust their height by turning the motor in the base can be set up easier with a lift. The question posed was why don't more people use lifts, and I think the price tag vs the benefits is the reason. Again, there is no right or wrong way.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Bear in mind the cabinet, truck and vac items are from 1997, taken from the American Woodworkers mag issue 1994, (revolutionary RT)I built the new table top for the lift and refit the fence face to add height for the T track last fall when I bought the lift and motor.

I added the red T track on the table early 08 I was using an aluminum channel track not meant for miter gauges. Much of the items mentioned in the AW issue weren't available in 97.

The RT stays in the shop now, initially I used to pull the cabinet out and take it to fiinish jobs where I could lock up. That got old, so I began bringing the top and setting it on horses. I kept the old top and bring it to jobs now with the Plunge for lighter work.

After all the fir work I've been doing the Fence vac port can't handle the volume of debris so I'm going to increase the diameter of the fence vac port to 2 1/4" later this spring.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Is it true that people with router lifts are always "cranky"? 

(just kidding, lift people, just kidding)

I'd like to see a lift that has a quick release and a lever that would raise the router to the maximum up position.


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## Barry99 (Feb 10, 2009)

Bob,
I hope to go to harbour freight tomorrow. I have one question, the Roybi router table has different holes for routers and some semi pre drill for lift/allen wrench. I do not have a semi pre drill hole for my lift/allen wrench. it's black plastic (phontic). Do you know if this is easy to drill through and it if woulld weaken the structor.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Barry, you should have no problems drilling your mounting plate. Simply unscrew the plastic sub base plate from your router and use it to mark the locations for the holes.


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## Sordova (Mar 22, 2009)

*I like the lift*

Rob, 

I agree. I have a router table with a makita plunge router installed. It is micro adjustable but requires me to go below the table to change bits.

I recently purchased a cast iron table to attach to my table saw and outfitted it with a Wooodpecker lift sytem. I installed a 3 h[ Porter Cable moter in the lift and the set up is quicker than anything else I have in my shop. I can also change the bits from above the table. In my mind it makes my router much easier to use!

Sordova


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## bobbyray (Jan 29, 2009)

Look at the new Woodpecker Incra PRL lifts, they make bit changing and adjustments quick and easy. I have one using the Jessem / Milwaukee 3.5 HP router, both work great.
Just installed the Wixley digital height scale makes it easy to dial the right height every time.

RRT


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## hgporter (Feb 26, 2007)

The Triton 2-1/2 HP router has a built-in lift. I chose it for my table because of the built-in above-the-table height adjustment and bit changes. When the router is cranked to the fully up position in the table, the spindle automatically locks. Changing bits is easily a one-handed operation. When the spindle is locked, the power switch is also locked out, giving me a second power safety feature.

I liked the idea of a lift, but could not seem to justify the investment required to have one. If I used my router a lot every day, I suppose I would have made the purchase. But at $300 and up, these seem pricey for the benefits provided. My Triton was $175. Every router manufacturer could incorporate the lift into the plunge feature. And any enterprising woodworker could probably modify the base and make an adjustable crank so the router height could be adjusted from above the table.


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