# Help selecting a router table



## daddy194x (Apr 21, 2011)

Hi!
I am a beginning woodworker with a small handful of projects under my belt. 
I am in the middle of a wine rack/built in cabinet project now. After struggling with routing small pieces with my hand held router, I think I'm ready to get a router table. The Kreg precision router table, rockler high pressure laminate table, and the incra table and fence combo 3 have caught my eye. 

I need to use the table to edge joint boards. Rabbets, half laps, grooves, etc, too. 

The incra solution looks really cool, and looks like it will let me do dovetails, too. Any drawbacks to the incra? It looks like the entire fence is only held by the positioner way in back of the fence. Any issues with using fence mounted stock guides (potentially causing the fence to lift?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Jeremy


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Got no idea. I used a router table for my first project, oh so many moons ago. Then built one. Now on about my 4th or 5th homebuilt. When you make your own, it's not only much less expensive, but you get what 'you' want, not what someone else thinks you want. Highly recommend making your own. And, if it doesn't turn out quite right, just make another.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JOAT said:


> Got no idea. I used a router table for my first project, oh so many moons ago. Then built one. Now on about my 4th or 5th homebuilt. *When you make your own, it's not only much less expensive, but you get what 'you' want, not what someone else thinks you want. Highly recommend making your own. * And, if it doesn't turn out quite right, just make another.


agreed.....


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## daddy194x (Apr 21, 2011)

I was thinking that I would buy a router table so I can get my wine rack/built in cabinet done before the holidays. Evenings after the kids are in bed is the only time I have.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Jeremy.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

daddy194x said:


> Hi!
> I am a beginning woodworker with a small handful of projects under my belt.
> I am in the middle of a wine rack/built in cabinet project now. After struggling with routing small pieces with my hand held router, I think I'm ready to get a router table. The Kreg precision router table, rockler high pressure laminate table, and the incra table and fence combo 3 have caught my eye.
> 
> ...


The only down sides to the Incra system is the cost and it can take up more space than other fences.

But, it makes joinery a real pleasure to include in your projects. Combined with a lift, and it is a combo that is hard to beat.

Featherboard use is encouraged and in no way affects table performance.


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## daddy194x (Apr 21, 2011)

Thanks Brad. That was helpful. Are you happy with your woodpecker lift?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

daddy194x said:


> Thanks Brad. That was helpful. Are you happy with your woodpecker lift?


I was so tired of hand cranks and so, when WP came out with the spring loaded release wrench, I was ready to give it a try. I am so glad I did. Not having to crank all the way up and down for bit changes was not missed. I can change bits far more quickly than other systems, and I can set the bit height very accurately with the spring handle. Ingenious solution. It is also one of the most robustly built of all the lifts. I have the aluminium inserts but the Incra vacuum ported inserts do appear to work very well with dust collection.

I have owned the lift and table for several years now and I have no complaints. My router table has become my favorite tool in the shop and with its swapable tops for assembly and glue up work, it is very versatile.

I built my table over the years so it was not such a financial shock to acquire all the components that make up my table. I did do the math on it when I built the table I have now and it is scary how much you can invest in such a table.

Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

If you need more pictures, let me know. I can provide links.


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## bcfunburst (Jan 14, 2012)

Jeremy, Welcome to the Forum.
Before you decide on any Router Table system, You won't be sorry if you investigate the VERITAS Table System @ Lee Valley Tools. I have read a lot of postings here about all other tables. I have not experienced any of the problem issues posted here. I use my VERITAS Table with a Triton TRA001 nearly every day and with NO hassles. The fence is also very simple with micro adjust feature. I've had my table and Triton router for nearly ten years now, trouble free.
Best of luck to you and enjoy the sawdust!!


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I wouldn't know what to do with a store bought table. 

However, it would be a time saver for you at this stage of the game. No need for a fancy stand or cabinet. Just lay it across a pair of saw horse, or clamp it to you work bench and support the outer edge. I have also used a workmate to support a table.

The downside is, you may end up working a a lower than comfortable height. That can become a pain quickly.

If you build, build it high enough to be a comfortable working height - say 37 - 39 inches (if your are avg. height).

Check out my adjustable height dual router workstation. I absolutely love it...and I did it my way! 

Adjustable height workstation/dual router table

Good luck, and welcome aboard.
Mike

Edit. OOPS, forgot to add pictures.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

timbertailor said:


> I was so tired of hand cranks and so, when WP came out with the spring loaded release wrench, I was ready to give it a try. I am so glad I did. Not having to crank all the way up and down for bit changes was not missed. I can change bits far more quickly than other systems, and I can set the bit height very accurately with the spring handle. Ingenious solution. It is also one of the most robustly built of all the lifts. I have the aluminium inserts but the Incra vacuum ported inserts do appear to work very well with dust collection.
> 
> I have owned the lift and table for several years now and I have no complaints. My router table has become my favorite tool in the shop and with its swapable tops for assembly and glue up work, it is very versatile.
> 
> ...


Hi Brad, 

How do you like the tool-less micro-adjust wheel? I've been looking at this lift for exactly the reason you mention (quick lift) but I've read some things that make the wheel look undesireable (too hard to turn, slips, jams with sawdust). Have you had any of these issues? Thanks,


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RJM60 said:


> Hi Brad,
> 
> How do you like the tool-less micro-adjust wheel? I've been looking at this lift for exactly the reason you mention (quick lift) but I've read some things that make the wheel look undesireable (too hard to turn, slips, jams with sawdust). Have you had any of these issues? Thanks,


I have had no such problems. Once the brake is adjusted properly, the wheel works perfectly.

It is a great feature because I can set my router bit depth in just a few steps.

1) Roughly set with the quick lift and zero the micro wheel.
2) Run a test cut.
3) Measure cut with calipers.
4) Dial in difference with the wheel. The micro wheel reads down to 0.002", but can be read to 0.0001".

Like any tool, you must keep them serviced. Cleaning the sawdust off the lift is part of that maintenance.


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

daddy194x said:


> Hi!
> I am a beginning woodworker with a small handful of projects under my belt.
> I am in the middle of a wine rack/built in cabinet project now. After struggling with routing small pieces with my hand held router, I think I'm ready to get a router table. The Kreg precision router table, rockler high pressure laminate table, and the incra table and fence combo 3 have caught my eye.
> 
> ...


Jeremy I sure hope there are no problems with the Incra system. We are installing a new Incra Master Lift and Incra LS Super System this weekend. We built the new table top last weekend and it came out perfect. It will just set down over our existing table.

Dick


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

I have had the Incra ls 25 with the prv 2 lift for several years
It is drop dead accurate and a pleasure to use
Can not comment on any othe store bought units ,up until the Incra it was home made for me,witch has merit also


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

If speed is what you need. Get a piece of MDF and cut it about 24 by 36. hog out a space in the bottom to mount your router and screw it to the MDF. Clamp it to your table and go. 

I made my first of 4 tables from a sink cutout. Used the poop out of it. 

I've never found a store bought table worth half the money they want for them.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Al B Thayer said:


> If speed is what you need. Get a piece of MDF and cut it about 24 by 36. hog out a space in the bottom to mount your router and screw it to the MDF. Clamp it to your table and go.
> 
> I made my first of 4 tables from a sink cutout. Used the poop out of it.
> 
> I've never found a store bought table worth half the money they want for them.


I would never use MDF for a work surface here in the south so if you decide to build your own, use something more stable.

If you have the skills to build your own, then go for it. But, you can easily make a mistake, as others have found out, making a table and wind up spending more than it would have cost to just buy one.

And, if you do not appreciate the level of quality of a table that is laminated together in a 50 ton press and heated to 300 degrees F, then you have not done the math.

It cost me over $150 in materials just to make a table top with the proper materials and a melamine top, miter, track, etc.. I know what I am doing and I had no problems. But, a rookie could easily cut a router opening wrong and would have to start over. And, my solution is not as good. So, $150 to $200 is not unreasonable for the features provided and not something I could do for much cheaper myself.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

timbertailor said:


> I would never use MDF for a work surface here in the south so if you decide to build your own, use something more stable.
> 
> If you have the skills to build your own, then go for it. But, you can easily make a mistake, as others have found out, making a table and wind up spending more than it would have cost to just buy one.
> 
> ...


I have to agree with Al. I can build better for less. I've never found I needed a top that was heated in a 50 ton press. My last one was melamine coated particle board and it's still dead flat after being outside in a shed for 4 years. 

If you cut the hole too big you can shim it with veneer or cut it larger and fill it in with solid wood and try again. Few mistakes can't be fixed.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> I would never use MDF for a work surface here in the south so if you decide to build your own, use something more stable.
> 
> If you have the skills to build your own, then go for it. But, you can easily make a mistake, as others have found out, making a table and wind up spending more than it would have cost to just buy one.
> 
> ...


I have to agree with Brad . But is there any doubt that I would vote for anything other than Brad's ideas , as
Brad is the Chuck Norris of the router World


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> I would never use MDF for a work surface here in the south so if you decide to build your own, use something more stable.
> 
> If you have the skills to build your own, then go for it. But, you can easily make a mistake, as others have found out, making a table and wind up spending more than it would have cost to just buy one.
> 
> ...


Timber

The suggestion was posted if the OP was looking for a QUICK solution to get his already late Xmas projects going. 

If I were recommending the best solution for a table to last and be there for the long run. It would be a router table that far exceeds any router hung from a table top requiring countless hrs to build and hundreds of dollars. 

I'm trying to be kind here but I get tired of the poop dumped on top of my posts when it's clearly a good answer to the OPs question. 

Your fear of MDF in this situation is unwarranted. 

Al B Thayer


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Hard to get good photos but here is a picture of my last RAS table surface. I use left over wood because I discard them once they get all cut up over the years.

This one never made it. It warped so bad, I can slip a quarter under one end of level while I push down on the other. You can tell it is not a very old top because there are no miter cuts in the top.

It has since been replaced with melamine over 3/4" Marine grade plywood.


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## daddy194x (Apr 21, 2011)

Thanks for all the input! I just ordered an incra LS super system fence, master lift, and the 27by43 incra offset tabletop. I decided to build the base/ cabinet instead of buying. The existing options seemed expensive and/or rickety, and I realized that I would still need to buy more material(plywood) to get storage for bits, accessories, etc. Mobility is key... I need to get over a 4" step when rolling into and out of the garage. Dust collection is important, too. 

I would love to see examples of other member's base cabinets!

I'm going to pick up some plywood this weekend so I am ready to get started


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Jeremy, for pictures of some bases, take a look at this thread:

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/17212-wanted-pictures-your-router-table.html


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

daddy194x said:


> Thanks for all the input! I just ordered an incra LS super system fence, master lift, and the 27by43 incra offset tabletop. I decided to build the base/ cabinet instead of buying. The existing options seemed expensive and/or rickety, and I realized that I would still need to buy more material(plywood) to get storage for bits, accessories, etc. Mobility is key... I need to get over a 4" step when rolling into and out of the garage. Dust collection is important, too.
> 
> I would love to see examples of other member's base cabinets!
> 
> I'm going to pick up some plywood this weekend so I am ready to get started


Hey Jeremy you followed my path exactly . Unfortunately I don't have time to build my lower caninet area yet but am looking forward to seeing your ideas . Can't wait till spring when it's warm again and I get to build mine . I've got quite a collection of parts lol


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

I mounted mine on a toolbox,stiffened with plywood,and added a plywood box around the router that has a door for access and a "big gulp" for the base
Pulls dust from both below and the fence
Sorry the pic is flipped


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

al m said:


> I mounted mine on a toolbox,stiffened with plywood,and added a plywood box around the router that has a door for access and a "big gulp" for the base
> Pulls dust from both below and the fence
> Sorry the pic is flipped


What a great idea Al . I was looking at the pic prior to going to the thread and thought what a handy way to have a storage area and base on wheels all at once . If you don't mind me asking I was curious as to what your final height ended up being ?


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

It is 36" high,a very comfortable hight for me.one drawback might be lack of stability if the chest is empty,but with my extra routers,cutters and accessories there is plenty of ballest
To balance the table overhang


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

al m said:


> It is 36" high,a very comfortable hight for me.one drawback might be lack of stability if the chest is empty,but with my extra routers,cutters and accessories there is plenty of ballest
> To balance the table overhang


That was my only concern , but then I thought if it becomes an issue have fold down legs .
It's sure interesting to see what other members come up with .
I'm liking the idea of those sliding drawers for router bits and accessories


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

Yes to the legs,also thought I could add a 3/4" plywood base the same size as the table top,move the wheels to the outside corners.
May still do that some day,this was throw together with what I had on hand that day
Chest was under a buck at that orange store


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