# Have you ever repurposed a table for a router table?



## Learningtorpute (May 28, 2016)

Is there any reason you can't use any table for a router table? As long as you cut out the hole, fix your fence, etc., is there some inherent reason you can't repurpose any table, counter top, dresser, and so on to make a functional router table? I could build one, but I like the idea repurposing junk furniture that someone gives me or I find in the trash (or Goodwill).


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## creative (Aug 17, 2015)

I have not. It can be done, but there's a reason some don't.

Depends on the level of precision a person needs in their router cuts. If there's any warp, unevenness, or variation in the plane of the table, it is reflected in the cut. Cheap materials in ordinary tables can be warped by variations in temperature and humidity.

General routing doesn't always require high precision. But there are lots of routing techniques that require high precision - i.e. jointing with a fence offset, high precision joinery, etc.

Really premium router tables are made out of CNC cut phenolic or cast iron because those materials dampen vibration, very resistant to denting and scratching, are dimmensionally consistent despite changes in temp and humidity. Manufacturers have to pay a lot for CNCs and metal molds, which is why the tables cost so much.

So, my answer, as always, is "it depends." In this case, on what you need to do.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Many here from what I have seen here have done it before , from old counter tops to a simple piece of mdf etc . Doesn't hurt to glue some pieces underneith to provide support for the router to prevent sagging


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## Tommy Law (May 29, 2016)

Ihave done it with decent results. My first "table was made from an enclosure a customer traded in I used it as a very easy circle jig mostly no fence or anything. I was gifted a basic Skil portable table I prefer my old one sometimes I am looking to find a nice top to repurpose into a good DIY table. Counter tops or Laminated workbench tops would be a good canidate. I've seen them made from nightstands, vanitys and some other stuff


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Learningtorpute said:


> 1... Have you ever repurposed a table for a router table?
> 2... Is there any reason you can't use any table for a router table?
> 3... As long as you cut out the hole, fix your fence, etc.,
> 4... is there some inherent reason you can't re-purpose any table, counter top, dresser, and so on to make a functional router table?
> 5... I could build one, but I like the idea re-purposing junk furniture that someone gives me or I find in the trash (or Goodwill).


1... yes..
2... no, there are exceptions like tables made from particle board and the top is thick enough to receive miter and T slots.....
3... do the fence on T slots and you'll do alright..
4... see #2... Sam used a dresser and it is working well for him...
5... good plan...


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Its your thang to do what you want to do. It would be easiest if the junk you select is flat. depending on the material how can it be supported. A router is a continual down pressure and the table will sag if the material is not supported. The best scrounge material that can handle the weight is a commercial door. Habitat for humanity resell store usually have them cheap but take a straight edge to make sure its flat. counter tops are particle board or mdf both will sag if you use them support it What makes all this fun is your can do it your way.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Your imagination is the only limit.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Put a reliable straight edge across the table top to see whether it is flat. If it is, I'd use some 3/4 x 3 inch braces underneath aroud the edges, and glue a very flat piece of MDF underneath. If you expect it to be flat, then you will need to buy a table insert, a metal plate about 3/8th thick. It will have leveling screws to line it up with the top. You will have to cut out an opening a little smaller than the plate and then cut a rabbit just slightly deeper than 3/8ths to to fit the plate and to give you a mounting edge and a little vertical space to allow you to level the plate. Theoretically, you could flatten the top if it is not perfect, but I'd want the material to be very good hardwood and I'd unmount the top from the base and maybe have it leveled by someone with a proper sander. All that said, personally, I'd prefer to buy a top with mounting plate and a good fence. But then, I have a little more money that time at this point in my life.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I did one last summer and gave it to my son. There's some pictures in my uploads.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Courtesy of Dave (aka Bushwhacker)


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

If I had an old table I'd rather cut it up and make stuff. However, if I hand an old solid door, I'd be very tempted to use it to replace my old homemade plywood top router table - simply because it is longer - and that is the only reason why.

My top, and plates, are made from 1/2" plywood. The top has a spiderweb of 2X4 pieces glued in underneath, and is totally solid. No sag in something over 10 years.


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

I want to thank Rick AKA "Rainman" for posting my video on the forum for me. I need to learn how to do that.
I suppose that when he watched the video, he may have noticed that my garage is not insulated either.
But, since I live in South Texas. When winter gets here, we usually stay in doors for that week end.
Thanks again Rick.
David


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Bushwhacker said:


> I want to thank Rick AKA "Rainman" for posting my video on the forum for me. I need to learn how to do that.
> I suppose that when he watched the video, he may have noticed that my garage is not insulated either.
> But, since I live in South Texas. When winter gets here, we usually stay in doors for that week end.
> Thanks again Rick.
> David


copy (right click/copy) the url address from the address bar...
right click in your post and hit paste...


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

this is a test. Trying to share this video


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Bushwhacker said:


> this is a test. Trying to share this video


and shared it is...
thanks....

you do some quality work...


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

Thanks stick. And now if I can remember this for the next time.
By the way, My microwave and my VCR blink 1200.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Bushwhacker said:


> Thanks stick. And now if I can remember this for the next time.
> By the way, My microwave and my VCR blink 1200.


no problemo...
mine blink that way too...


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## ErnieD (Oct 22, 2014)

Hello how are ya?I just read your piece about repurposing a table to make a router table and i have one that i am getting ready to work on it's made from an old desk i found.I think it will work out perfect,The desk is 5 feet long and 2.5feet wide 1inch thick top with arborite cover the only problem is it is not high enough so i will have to make legs for it.It will also be used for my chop saw.I will send some photo later when i get at it.Until then enjoy your time in the shop It's the best stress relief ever.Ernie D


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

David that's the biggest capacity air nailer that I've ever seen


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## Dan3103 (Feb 12, 2014)

Nice work, David! 

If I may comment on your extension ladder, if you put three rungs above the roof line, you will have a much easier time mounting and dismounting from the roof. Having that extra height as a hand hold makes it a lot safer, especially when carrying tools up and down. 

I also agree about that nailer. I thought my Senco 60 was a big boy, but it doesn't hold a candle to yours!


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

Yes that puppy is heavy too. I bought that from Sears years ago and it has worked real well for me. It only holds 2 sleeves of nails.
I usually do run my extension ladder up 3 rungs past the edge of the house, but some times I don't think of it until I am about to come down.
It is especially hairy when you are carrying some thing like that nail gun.


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Courtesy of Dave (aka Bushwhacker)
> 
> https://youtu.be/sNmvejdZ0u0


I think I should get some sort of royalties from this Rick.
Thanks for the cudos.


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## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

Learningtorpute said:


> Is there any reason you can't use any table for a router table? As long as you cut out the hole, fix your fence, etc., is there some inherent reason you can't repurpose any table, counter top, dresser, and so on to make a functional router table? I could build one, but I like the idea repurposing junk furniture that someone gives me or I find in the trash (or Goodwill).


I repurposed a old conference room table that was 1 1/2" thick with laminate on both sides. I have a Incra plate mounted. I also made my son a table and its been 9 years and no sag yet. The core is compressed wood fibers and where the plate leveling screws are I inserted steel rivets to keep the leveling screws from digging in. (See the attached post)

http://www.routerforums.com/table-m...pictures-your-router-table-59.html#post274243


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Placing 1x3 trusses under the table helps keep it flat, but it also helps to glue a chunk of 3/4 MDF to help keep the top flat. Careful sanding or even hand planing of a solid wood top will work to flatten it. 

But I'd buy a used cabinet or even a short dresser with drawers, and construct a two layer top with 2 sheets of very flat Baltic Birch ply or a BB top layer and glue on a sheet of MDF underneath. Add the trusses and make sure to pre drill the MDF. Use screws to hold the trusses in place, have them go in at least half an inch into a 3/4 BB top. Keep the trussing and screws out of the pathway of the router bit. Carefully mark and then use a jig saw to cut an opening slightly under half an inch smaller than the plate on all four sides. Then set a half inch rabbiting bit to create the shelf for the plate. 

Or, you could prepare the top as described, then place the the plate on top and and mark its outside dimension on the table. Cut the opening half in inch inside the line and cut out the center so you have half an inch on each side.

Now, put the plate back n the line you marked, and use four straight 1x3 boards as shown in the illustration and fit them close to the edges of the plate (hint, put a light piece of very thin postcard material between the plate and wood pieces so you can easily lift the plate out.) Clamp the four boards in place, then use them to guide your trim bit to make the rabbet. This is a very easy cut.

I'd definitely use a mounting plate, and I'd want a total top thickness of 1.5 inches and I really like trusses, whether they're metal or wood.

Search the site and YouTube for a fence design with a dust collection design. If you want to use featherboards, you'll want to put in a strip of T-track on the table and later, on the fence.


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## A-1jim (Jan 4, 2009)

Charles Neil has made a double ended router table using a solid core door and a biesemeyer fence from a table saw, it works great.


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