# Router Table Ver1.0 (Lots-o-Pics)



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

I finally got far enough today to make some dust and put my set up through some paces. The idea behind Ver1.0 was to build a table that was “quick and dirty” to test out sizes and the function of everything (and to practice things like biscuit joinery on the carcass). I’ll take the lessons I learn from this set-up to build something “prettier” in the future once I use this for a while. 

The table top is two layers of ¾” MDF on top of an MDF “carcass” which sits on a few Metro shelves I had sitting around. 

I’m using:

Bosch 1617 with router table base
Woodpeckers Phenolic plate
Incra Ultra fence
Incra Miter 1000
Incra Miter track

As some of you know from previous posts I own a table saw from the 1950’s so when I rip or cross cut things are close but not close enough for the type of things I want to build. So the 1st thing to test out is the fence's accuracy with “ripping” some wood. 










BTW, no laughing at my high-tech chip collector. 

For this I’m using a Whiteside ½” spiral up cut bit. After shaving one side with a few 1/32” passes I flip over the piece and remove 1/32” at a time. Then I creep up to the my target 3” with a few smaller passes. With a reading form my digital calipers and a final setting of the micro adjuster I get “close enough” to my intended 3”… 










I could never get that accurate with my table saw. 

Then to make sure everything is square and the same length I throw in the Incra miter and make a few passes on each side. 



















While I have it set up I try a quick 90 deg miter with some ¾” stock. 










Perfect on the 1st attempt! 










Now it’s time to make something with those pieces I “whittled”..

I figured a “simple” box joint would be a good place to start. Now I remember a wise man on here (who’s screen name has a B and a J in it) saying that the best looking box joints are the ones that are made with a bit that is half the thickness of your stock. So I throw in my Whiteside ¼” up cut and set my bit height using the Bosch’s above table adjustment (which works like a champ). I go by the tip in the incra guide and set my bit height just a hair over the stock width. 










Then I break out my centering jig. I know this was an unnecessary item, but I figured I would give it a try. Using the micro adjuster again I set the center of my work piece.










After studying the templates for a while in the Incra book I toss in the template “ruler” and decide to make all the A cuts on once side of all 4 pieces and the B cuts on the opposite sides. This will give the same overlap in each corner rather than a different symmetrical overlap depending on what side you are looking at. 

All 4 pieces, plus a scrap backer to minimize tear out, get clamped up to the 90 deg jig. 










After all the passes are done we are looking good










But how does it fit?










Decent, but the joints are a little looser than they should be. Not horrible, but it would not stay together against gravity as the Incra video suggests. I take it that’s a function of my bit? Is there a type of bit out there that would produce a tighter fit? My guess is it would be a slightly smaller diameter than ¼”

Also if I had skewed the pattern 1/8” I would not have those small pegs on the top and bottom. I might “rip” those off since I know I can do it accurately. This falls under the live and learn category.

But the plan to have the pins protrude slightly worked well. They will get sanded flush after gluing. 

And here’s the view from above. Note the overlap pattern I was going after.










So overall it was a good day. Next I’m working on a few auxiliary fences. One will be split to allow for shimming and jointing.

I’m open to comments or suggestions. And I have to thank everyone here for their guidance so far and for answering all my newbie questions!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Looking good Nick, nice photos as well!

Corey


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hi Nickbee. It looks like you are getting things set up pretty good. I do, However, question the safety of trapping the piece between the fence and the bit (ripping?). Also, if you are feeding left to right on the table, you are making it even more dangerous (back routing). I may be wrong on this, but if so someone will set me straight. By trapping and back routing you run the risk of the piece being jerked away from you, flung across the room and possibly taking your hand into the bit.


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

George is right, Nickbee. 'Climb' cutting is not generally recommended and passing between bit & fence is also uncool. Take care mate.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Hey,

You're having FUN! Aren't you?  

Good for you!

Looking good... you will learn fast enough what you can & cannot do... not to worry.

Box looks Very Good!


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Nickbee please don't take my post as an undue criticizim to your routing. On the contrary. I was simply pointing out some safety tips that could save you from possible problems and/or injuries in the future. We all have a learning curve and the safer we can be while learning the better.
Keep up your enthusiasm and good work. We are all here for the same things... the love of woodworking with the router (and other tools) and to learn and share with others what we have learned.

SAFETY FIRST... ALLWAYS!


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

ok guys,, imagine it in your head. That is not back routing. I'm feeding the material against the rotation of the bit. as far as "climb cutting" someone needs to fill me in on that. I thought what I was doing was the same as jointing with an offset fence only from the other side of the bit. With the feathers in place everything seemed VERY stable and safe. Now if this is a router table no-no I can't figure out why. As you can see I was getting great results. And keep in mind simular to using an offset fence I was only taking off 1/32 at a time. 

But I am a newbie so who knows.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

BTW George I appreciate your comments and thoughts. That’s what is great about forums like this. And safety is a concern for me also! So if there are better or safer ways of doing something I want to know about it!

BTW I have not applied any type of finish to my MDF top. Is Johnson’s wax a good idea? 

Thanks again!


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## yetiatlarge (Dec 5, 2007)

Looks good to me.
Home built table with Incra fence setup.
Must be nice and accurate.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hi Nickbee. I'm sorry. After looking at the first picture again I now realize your were not climb-cutting (back-routing... same thing), but trapping the piece between the fence and bit is considered unsafe. It's kinda like on a table saw where the fence isn't aligned correctly and the piece is pinched between the blade and fence causing a kick-back. By the same token if the bit were to hit a hard spot, knot or something unseen in the wood something similar could happen. I am not saying it WILL happen to you but why take that chance?



> And keep in mind simular to using an offset fence I was only taking off 1/32 at a time.


I can see your logic to this, but why not just use the offset fence to do it? That way the bit is partially burried in the fence and not sticking up in the open like a "big finger blender".
It's much safer, but that's just my humble opinion.

Johnson's paste wax will work fine on your table surface.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Gotcha George!!!!

I guess the reason to do it this way over an offset fence is adjustability. With the Incra set up I can move my fence a thousandth of an inch if need be. On an offset fence I'm stuck to the shim size on the out feed side. Unless there is a trick I don't know about. 

BTW when using this fence I feel like I should have a lab coat on. What a great piece of machinery!


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Nickbee if you want to take off more with the offset fence you could simply use a thicker shim for the offset.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

George, my concern is not taking off more, but wanting to take off less. With an offset fence I’m limited to my shim size (say 1/32 or maybe 1/64). But with the fence I can dial in at a thousandth at a time. And since it’s set at one distance I can “rip” multiple pieces exactly the same. I’m probably thinking too much about this but I have some projects in mind that will require this kind of precision. 

And I see your point about possible kick backs.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

George is correct, you need to be moving your work from right to left and not trapping the wood between the bit and fence. We want everybody to be safe. Other than that everything looks very good. Fine job.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I agree that you are feeding the timber in the correct direction, as stated by others, "trapping" the timber between fence and cutter is a DEFINITE NO NO, no matter what fence you use, you may well have no problems for years, but when you are least expecting it something unforeseen will surely happen, we more experienced members of the forum are here to make routing as safe as possible. You appear to be progressing extremely well, the only point I would mention regarding the finger joints is that the finished box looks better when the pins are symmetrical on each side. Please don't be offended, you really are doing well.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Thanks guys! Trust me I welcome and appreciate the comments / criticism. It will help my work get better and safer. 

I think I figured out why my pins were a little loose. My 90 deg angle fixture was sitting a little loose on the fence. Tightening up the nylon screws should do to trick. I’m going to cut down the pins on this box and try again.

Harry. Can you should me an example of symmetrical pins? I think I know what you mean. When looking at one side there would be the same pins on both sides? 

Thanks again!


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