# How do I defeat tear-out while dovetail routing?



## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

So, I have a decent handle on the dovetail jig but I have issues with tear out. If it were a little I wouldnt mind. Any ideas on how to reduce or eliminate tear-out while performing this operation?


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Hello : Michael! Lets start with a bit of information; What type of wood, and how dry. Is it furniture or just plywood? and what type of router bit. First, I would consider the router bit, The old steel bits wear out quickly. and carbide will not cut well when covered with pitch, or burned residue. Then the wood. Give us a few details, and We will try to help! Thank You!


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

dutchman 46 said:


> Hello : Michael! Lets start with a bit of information; What type of wood, and how dry. Is it furniture or just plywood? and what type of router bit. First, I would consider the router bit, The old steel bits wear out quickly. and carbide will not cut well when covered with pitch, or burned residue. Then the wood. Give us a few details, and We will try to help! Thank You!


Well, I am a bit embarrassed to tell you but I am practicing on old fence wood. I got it free after hurricane Ike tore them all down. I am going to go buy some wood I just wanted to practice on something free to get a handle on how the router feels. 

The bit is from Leighs. It (they) came with the Leigh Jig. I got the Leigh D1600 from a really great guy at the Creek. I do need to hear those things about burnt bits and all though. I am very new to this and have no training. I am motivated though. Just not a lot of cash.

I am practicing on boxes at the moment. I am thinking of buying some red oak and some popular to continue to practice. I want to sell boxes, trays, and book shelves. Stuff like that.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Hey Michael....Good idea practicing on an old fence post, and yes, I have made some pretty good stuff from the pieces!
But,,,if you want to see tear out...just with a straight bit...go to my post ..."Bad Day At...bla bla..." .................AL


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

That is a very good way to practice! It was just a bit hard to Analise with out that info. Don't be embarrass, It's the best way to learn. When in dought, always ask. I think that You will be better able to watch for those type problems than the person who goes to the stock, and is then scared to try the process over again. You have done exactly what I would


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Michael

Try putting some thin material behind the material that you want to rout. The tearout will then just be in the waste thin material.

HTH

Peter


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

mjdtexan said:


> So, I have a decent handle on the dovetail jig but I have issues with tear out. If it were a little I wouldnt mind. Any ideas on how to reduce or eliminate tear-out while performing this operation?


For the tails, you can use a straight bit to remove most of the material, then switch to the dovetail bit. Take several small cuts with the straight bit. Do the same for the pins (several small cuts).


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## NBeener (Oct 11, 2010)

[new, here. Will have to introduce myself, soon ]

Some people suggest that climb-cutting reduces tear-out.

Others have suggested scoring a cut line (with, say, a utility knife) along the bottom edge of your dovetails.

I'm generally pretty okay, except for the occasional obnoxious piece of Baltic Birch ply. I find that liberal swearing usually helps, in that case


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## WmTmpkins (Oct 7, 2010)

I have used my Leigh jig once.... easier on a CNC.


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

WmTmpkins said:


> I have used my Leigh jig once.... easier on a CNC.


Thats cool, however, I suspect that CNC machines are expensive and you need the knowledge to program one. I am just guessing at that though. I am.

Sometime today I am going to ask how to get those professional looking finger holds int he sides of Langstroth beehives. I am.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Have You got to the good wood You were going to use? Curious as to how everything went. Where cost is involved, I have to watch myself like a hawk!! It would be easy to get a little better tools, and things like that. Being retired, and disabled, I can feel the pain that folks go through. I hope all goes well, or went well!


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

dutchman 46 said:


> Have You got to the good wood You were going to use? Curious as to how everything went. Where cost is involved, I have to watch myself like a hawk!! It would be easy to get a little better tools, and things like that. Being retired, and disabled, I can feel the pain that folks go through. I hope all goes well, or went well!


I went to a sawmill and bought pine. It is a LOT better than the boxstore pine and a lot cheaper too. I did buy some walnut but I have not used it yet. I think I am going to get more practice before I start on hardwood. I will buy some though every time I visit the lumbermill. I like mesquite a lot.


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## Jim Rimmer (Oct 21, 2010)

Two things that might help:

1. Use a backer board. I usually put one the same thickness and width of the piece I am routing.

2. The dreaded climb cut.  If you are new to routing, a climb cut is moving th router in the same direction that the bit is turning. A dangerous move and not generally recommended. Take a VERY light cut across the front of the piece going from right to left. That will lightly shave the face off and help prevent tear out. When I say light I mean maybe 1/32 to 1/16. If you go deeper it is likely the bit will grab and throw the router forward since you are going with the spin. Don't ever use this type of cut on any other operation as it can be disastrous.

The only other comment is that using old wood to practice on is a great idea. I do it all the time. In fact, I keep a stock of pine to do set up cuts on. But, soft woods like pine and cedar (which I guess the fence material is) tear out a lot easier than hardwoods.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

mjdtexan said:


> I went to a sawmill and bought pine. It is a LOT better than the boxstore pine and a lot cheaper too. I did buy some walnut but I have not used it yet. I think I am going to get more practice before I start on hardwood. I will buy some though every time I visit the lumbermill. I like mesquite a lot.


didn't get on the first post. If you buy at the mill is the wood kiln dried? I belive poplar would be a better wood to work with. No pitch build up on bit's. I build jewelry box's and don't use pine at all. I have built 500 so far. I set up at a craft show. I make box's out of all wood's. Except pine. I buy in the ruff and plane down and also resaw. Make's the price better. good luck I read the other post. Like was said climb cut which i wouldn't recemend tell you get more experence. A backer board work's very well . Make sure bit's are sharp. That is all i do is dovetales and pin's for the box part. I make so many i don't use a backer board and very little tare out. Most of the tare out is inside the box any way. I use the frount and back board's for the dovetales and the side's for the pin's. That way it look better i thank. Also when i plane down my board i get 2 good side's .Than when i resaw the board I put this out side and and smooth planed down side is inside . Now when i sand down the box and the prowed end's sanded down. All is smooth. Works for me. Just the way i do it.


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## Collett (Nov 4, 2010)

Tear-out is the bane of all woodworkers ... it is a function of sharp bits / speed of cut / and type of wood. Sometimes the same piece of wood will give different levels of tear-out so all you can do is hope to reduce it as much as possible. Start with sharp clean bits and experiment with "practice" wood, the same species and cut that you want to work with and you will soon become an expert in tear-out.


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