# The jig binge continues...



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Lately I've been building jigs. Some have already been posted, but today I finished construction on the most exacting yet. It is a rotating platform with a guide for a Japanese pull saw to cut small parts.


The two red knobs hold the rotating base at 45, 90 and 45 degrees. The knob on the right is a quarter inch aluminum rod that fits into a hole in the rotating platform. The left hand know is attached to a 1/4 x 20 threaded bolt that will hold the rotating platform in place at any desired angle. 

The four guide blocks are anchored in 1/4 x 20 brass bolts, through oversized holes through he blocks to allow adjustmant for a tight fit to the saw. They are lined with low friction tape. The bar across the top registers the workpiece to the saw.

I plan to use it to cut trim and inlays for frames, and who knows what else..

It is based on a plan from Woodsmith magazine and their video. 
A very enjoyable project. BTW, the cherry red knobs are painted with high gloss nail polish. 

Any ideas on finishing this? Tongue oil? Linseed oil? Or?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Here is the closeup of the jig....


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

That's a great idea Tom. You weren't kidding when you said "exacting". Will you hand hold the work piece while cutting?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

vchiarelli said:


> That's a great idea Tom. You weren't kidding when you said "exacting". Will you hand hold the work piece while cutting?


I thought about that but decided it wasn't necessary. I won't be cutting anything larger than half an inch thick on this, and the saw cuts on the pull (toward the camera), so it will stay stable. I will shortly add a sandpaper strip to the side of the crossbar.

Normally, the workpiece will rest on the side of the crossbar away from the camera. It is really easy to adjust the guide blocks, so I could use it with a dovetail cutting saw, which you push, so the piece would be on the front of the crossbar.

This was a very cool project and I learned a lot making it.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Tom you need to change your forum name to " KingOfJigs" .
Nice as always , thanks for sharing


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Tom, very nice. I'm thinking of making something similar, mainly for cutting inlays and such. I love my little japanese pull saw for this kind of thing. I'm unhappy with my little xacto miter box.

What did you use for the guides, HDPE?

Could you provide a link to the original plans?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

PhilBa said:


> Tom, very nice. I'm thinking of making something similar, mainly for cutting inlays and such. I love my little japanese pull saw for this kind of thing. I'm unhappy with my little xacto miter box.
> 
> What did you use for the guides, HDPE?
> 
> Could you provide a link to the original plans?



The guides are made of Birch, which I had on hand. Since they are not glued in place, they could be replaced with something else.

Sorry to say the plan is from Woodsmith in PDF form and I don't have permission to make it available. I subscribed to their online videos and this was part of it. Nifty little jig, and the pull saw is fantastic. I have one that is very thin and will bend slightly to cut off dowels and proud dovetails. Just bought the one in the picture, it has a replaceable blade and a stiffener that holds it rigid. Amazing saws!

There are five threaded inserts, one on the left side of the crossbar, one under each of the guide blocks. The holes in the blocks are 3/8 ths, so there is a little wiggle room so you can set the blocks for a fairly tight fit with the blade. The blocks are lined with low friction tape so the saw slides smoothly. The circular piece has a radius of 4.5 inches, 9 inches across. It was cut on the band saw and the cutoff pieces form the parts that surround the rotating table. Drill the holes with a drill press so they are vertical. The jig is 20 inches long. It was cut from two matching pieces that were 20 inches long and 10 inches wide. The two boards are later cut down and joined with screws, not glue. Just make sure you don't put screws where you later will make a cut.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

TheCableGuy said:


> Tom you need to change your forum name to " KingOfJigs" .
> Nice as always , thanks for sharing


Thanks. I'm doing lots of jigs lately in part because they are so handy, but they are also quite precise and a good practice run for the frames that are next up.

It was cold and windy here today, but the insulation let me heat the place up with a floor heater. I have a 20 inch fan with filter box hanging from the ceiling that circulates the heat. Nice to be able to work in there, although it is really more like play. Santa brought me several sheets of Baltic Birch ply, so I am looking at making a couple of other nifty items.


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

Looks like a fun project Tom, nice outcome!

I tried on some Watco Danish oil on a recent project made out of HF birch ply and really like the result. It really makes the grain jump out. I put an unfinished piece for a different project from the same sheet next to the can to compare.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Tom I like your jig and you did a good job of making it. I also agree that Watco Danish oil would be a great choice. This is one of several Christmas presents I made using Danish oil.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> Here is the closeup of the jig....


Nice job, Tom. I was contemplating this build after I watched the videos, but didn't get to it. Turned out really great.


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## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

Very precise looking jig Tom. I bet it will work as good as it looks.


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## Garyk (Dec 29, 2011)

Impressive jig and nice projects.


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

Nice Jig Tom. It's quite satisfying to make things, that make things, better.


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