# My Homemade Router Table



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I've been having issues with my computer for about 3 weeks or more. Now it looks like I am probably going to lose all the saved pictures, the ones I can't access just now. So, dug around and found what seems to be the best picture of my router table, and I will tell you how I did it - that is, how I think I did it, things like this I seem to get spaced out while I make them, then when I'm finished I am not sure just what I did or how I did it. I am saving some pictures on my camera tho, and once I get the computer running as it should again, I will load those and see if I can't add some more detail to this thread.

This is the link to my router table. http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1661/1_CANE_BUILD.JPG I measured it the other day and it is about 20" wide, and 18" deep. The top is all plywood. Under the plywood is a base of 2X4 pieces that are closely spaced, all glue fastening, then bolted to the bench. It is very level, along with the top, so I'm thinking what I did was assemble it upside down, on a flat surface. Then turned over, and bolted to the shelf it is on - so I can sit while using it (arthritis of the spine, bad joints). Then the back of the top was glued in place. That's one piece, with a rectangular notch in it for the plate. I think I cut that with the scrollsaw. You can't see, there's something on the top right corner, but the corner of the plywood router plate is cutt off - that is so when I make new plates (routing them with a template/pattern) I will know which side I want as the top, and it fits in snugly. There is a piece on each side that butts up to the sides of the router plate, the side pieces are glued in place also. The router plate fits very nicely in there, nice and snug, and is only held down by the weight of the router. I have 2X4 pieces that support the router plate for about 1/2" all around except for the front. That is open, to allow room for the router to swing up when you grab the front of the plate and lift, and the router just pops right up. I now drill holes in the new router plates, top right, for hanging on a nail, router and all. You could have the hole large enough to take a finger, then lift straight up, but I don't see any advantage in that, it's faster, and I think easier, as is. 

The bit hole is sized so I can easily look down to see where the wrench goes when it's out of the table and changing a bit; you can have it smaller, up to you. You can see where two of the screws to hold the router to the plate are - I mark them by pointing a nail thru the screw hole of the base, then drill thru, then use a small space drill so it will take a washer, and the screw top be below the table top. That was for the original, now I have pilot holes in the master to tell me where to drill. I've got I think four routers, all with the same screw pattern. If I ever get another, with a different pattern, all I have to do is put a nail thru the screw holes of the base to mark where I need to drill. No prob. 

I must have done a real good job on making those 2X4 pieces level, because the entire plywood top is nice and smooth, I can slide a small piece of wood across it just as smoothly as if it were just one piece. It's 1/2" plywood, if I didn't say. That's what I had, so that's what I used. No danger of sag, the 2X4 pieces are nicely close together. I don't use a fence, but if I did, I'd just make one that suited my needs, then clamp it at both ends. And if I wanted to use a sled with it, instead of slots, I'd just clamp a fence down, and make a sled that is guided by the fence. Probably ran about $5 or so, at the most. 

I'm not real sure that's exactly how I made it, but am pretty sure I'd probably be doing it about that way if I ever make another. If I ever get this computer running the way it should, I'll take some pictures of my masters, and tell you how I made them - or at least think I made them. I'll be making some more later too, so will try to get pictures.


----------



## MorrisonCharles (Feb 13, 2009)

It is nice to see a good project where someone does not spend a lot of money on extras that are not needed and may in fact reduce the effeciency.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

morrisonc said:


> It is nice to see a good project where someone does not spend a lot of money on extras that are not needed and may in fact reduce the effeciency.


I'm on a fixed income, but could buy items I need; however, almost all of them are not exactly what I would need, so better to make my own and get what I want. Then there's the fact that making my own is cheaper, but I'd probably make my own even if I had buckets of money, more fun that way.

I dug around and found some more pictures of stuff, so will post links. Rather than make a bunch of posts, every time I find something I'll just add it to this post. Feel free to ask about anything.

I needed a bit more work space, so made this simple top that sits on my wood lathe. Nothing to hold it in place, it fits just fine, no movement at all. Very, very, handy. Thats my miter saw base on it. http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/LATHE_TOP.JPG 
Needed a carrier to carry plastic bags from the grocery store into the house so they don't kill my fingers, and I can carry a lot more. Just scrap pieces glued down, then routed. Next picture shouws it routed. http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1661/medium/MARK_4_2_.JPG 
These are two bag carrier masters. They will get nail pilot holes, then I will nail them to a piece of plywood, and rout that out. Remove the routed piece, glue it to another piece of wood, and when the glue sets, rout that out; that'll give a 1" width, which tremendously eases the pain of those plastic bags on your fingers. You can copy these if you care to, I've made another design I like even more, but only for gifts, not for sale, copyrighted. http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1661/medium/100_02821.JPG


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Eh, I haven't got that many picturds to find, so I'll just make a new post. This is a bit different.
I have a think for single-shot rifles, so a few years ago bought a new Savage .22. Turned out the safety lever was bent, rust on the bolt, and a few other issues. Had bought it at WallyWorld, so had some issues about taking it back, but finally got a refund, which I promptly applied to a new Marlin .22 - world of difference, very nice rifle. As a kid I hunted tree rats with a .22, so decided to make the rifle I would have killed for as a kid.

This is the first version. Cut out a section of the butt, and routed a cheekpiece. There's a few other mods, including painted stock, and the scope. The stock was painted because if you're hunting, and lie your rifle down, it's not really easy to see it usually, so this shortens search time. Included in the picture is one of the wooden figure banks I make, routed out, and one of my homemade canes. The new series of canes will all be laminated wood (glued plywood), because I slipped on my snowy steps last winter, and wound up on my face on the ground, with that cane in two pieces under me. I don't want a cane that breaks, so new canes.
http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/iB_html/uploads/post-3-37032-1.JPG

Decided to upgrade the rifle this year. All the mods are plywood, glued and routed. All of them. The hook at the back is so it can be hung on a branch, rather than lie it on the ground, and be easily seen. 
http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/iB_html/uploads/post-3-38497-7.JPG 

Then decided to do just a bit more modding, and cut the wood hook off, shortened the butt just a bit, and use a brass coat hook for the hanging, and to give it a steampunkish look. As strange as it may look to some, it fits me better than any rifle I've ever seen. And was fun to do. 
http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/iB_html/uploads/post-3-99393-8.JPG
This last paint job is orange. Which is what the other one was supposed to be. But when I mixed yellow and red, instead of getting orange, I got pink - much more pink than the picture shows. So, got some new, and brighter, red paint, and this time was able to mix up a reasonable orange. I actually found some pictures of the build, but didn't feel like getting the links to those and posting them, maybe later. It's a pain, not being able to find my saved picture files, be happy when I get this computer back to normal.


----------



## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

JOAT said:


> As a kid I hunted tree rats with a .22, so decided to make the rifle I would have killed for as a kid.


You mentioned "tree rats"... being from Canada I've never heard of this species but I was wondering if they might be related to our "Bushy Tailed Rats"?

I wish that I could use your rifle to discourage these vermin from destroying my garden and fruit. Unfortunately here in suburbia it's frowned upon and some people even think that the Bushy Tails are cute.

:angry:


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

tree rats = squirrels ?


----------



## remotelarry (Sep 3, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> tree rats = squirrels ?


I think they are the same--just a guess.


----------



## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

*Noobie in Ireland*

Hi guys - I'm new to this forum, just reading around to get the atmosphere. Here's a simple table I attached to the side of a Hitachi tablesaw:










For a fence, when I need one, I will use a length of aluminium rectangle-section and G-cramps. It's quite a useful table, I've routed a recess on the underside of the plywood that's the shape of the router to absorb the torque when it's under load.

Regards

JC


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

JCJCJC said:


> Hi guys - I'm new to this forum, just reading around to get the atmosphere. Here's a simple table I attached to the side of a Hitachi tablesaw:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Simple and effective, John.

That's all it has to be...


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

JCJCJC said:


> Hi guys - I'm new to this forum, just reading around to get the atmosphere. Here's a simple table I attached to the side of a Hitachi tablesaw:
> 
> For a fence, when I need one, I will use a length of aluminium rectangle-section and G-cramps. It's quite a useful table, I've routed a recess on the underside of the plywood that's the shape of the router to absorb the torque when it's under load.
> 
> ...


jc, that looks like a very useful setup, but it leads to a question ... can you provide a few more details how you attached it to your table saw? i like that approach very much and may do the same.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

TenGees said:


> You mentioned "tree rats"... being from Canada I've never heard of this species but I was wondering if they might be related to our "Bushy Tailed Rats"?
> 
> I wish that I could use your rifle to discourage these vermin from destroying my garden and fruit. Unfortunately here in suburbia it's frowned upon and some people even think that the Bushy Tails are cute.
> 
> :angry:


You get a .22 rifle, then stock up on Colibri ammunition. No powder, just primer, and a light bullet. First time I shot one, I pulled the bolt out to make sure it actually went out the barrel. :yes4: Much less noise than any air rifle I've ever seen. Either that, or make, or buy a crossbow. I vote for making one. Skane Lockbow is my favorite, the originals were all wood and fiber, no metal at all - but some of the modern replicas use metal, and a hinged lever. Ah well.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Chris Curl said:


> tree rats = squirrels ?


Yep. But the letter between the P and R on my keyboard doesn't work anymore, so I typed tree rats. :laugh: Very tasty little critters too, if cooked right. Make some fine gravy too.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Drat. Just remembered, I figured out how to download pictures - still can't find my old picture files - and post them, so took a picture of my router table this evening, with a different plate, and router with a 1/2" router bit. That's one of the spare plates I routed out. Figure it's easier to change router plates, complete with router and different bit, than it is to change bits. :sarcastic: It dropped in just as fast and easy as the original one. Now need to get more routers, so I've got one for each bit.


----------



## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> jc, that looks like a very useful setup, but it leads to a question ... can you provide a few more details how you attached it to your table saw? i like that approach very much and may do the same.


No problem Chris. Inside the casting of the Hitachi saw were little 'pips' that I drilled and tapped:











To take M6 C/S screws:












Which support simple steel bars as you can see in the finished shot - you could simply use nuts and bolts if you haven't the threading abd tapping facilities.











Hope that makes it clear enough, let me know if not.

JC


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

JCJCJC said:


> No problem Chris. Inside the casting of the Hitachi saw were little 'pips' that I drilled and tapped:
> Which support simple steel bars as you can see in the finished shot - you could simply use nuts and bolts if you haven't the threading abd tapping facilities.


That's slick. 

I said I've been having computer problems, but learned how to load pictures - again. Went out yesterday, did some routing, took lots of pictures, including the of master for routing out my router plates. Got back in the house, loaded the pictures on the computer, and was going thru them, discarding the bad pictures, and keeping the good. And that's when the computer went into auto-shutdown mode. Thought I was never going to get the blamed thing going again, but finally did. And found out that my gmail account now has no record of ever existing. AND no pictures, including previously saved ones of specialty vehicles. Nothing. And, of course, I cleard the pictures off the camera once they got 'safely' on the computer. Major bummer. :cray: Pictures when I can. Sorry guys.


----------



## giltic (Sep 27, 2010)

Well, that's why I've got myself a 1TB USB hard drive as a safe storage place for photos and all the other important things (like pdf woodworking books and magazines). I always have three copies of my photos: one copy on my first HD, the other copy on my second HD and the third one on my USB HD. My first HD is divided in two partitions; on first partition is only the system (windows and programs). The second partition is for archive and everyday stuff.
When I installed my operating system (windows, programs, drivers,...) I made an image of the whole (freshly installed) system with the program 'Acronis True Image'. So, when somethings goes wrong I just rewrite the image on the HD and in 9 or 10 minutes I have again freshly installed system.
That's why I have on the first partition only the operating system so when I rewrite an image the other stuff on the second partition and the other HD stays intact.

Never trust the computer and especially never trust the windows.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

JC, thanks. I did not see the steel bars on the ends the first time around; now I see them.


----------



## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> JC, thanks. I did not see the steel bars on the ends the first time around; now I see them.


I made it in minutes from scraps lying around my shed, nothing is absolutely prescribed. Use whatever bolts or screws you have lying around. I would strongly recommend rounding the corners of the router table as I did, bandsaw or jigsaw followed by beltsander. because you will bang your hips painfully on it some time and small people will bang heads. The ends of the steel bars are rounded too just to take the ignorant look off the project.

(Everything electrical in my shed is isolated when any small people are about - even Mrs JC knows how and I didn't marry her for her electrical engineering skills ;-))


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

giltic said:


> Well, that's why I've got myself a 1TB USB hard drive as a safe storage place for photos and all the other important things (like pdf woodworking books and magazines). I always have three copies of my photos: one copy on my first HD, the other copy on my second HD and the third one on my USB HD. My first HD is divided in two partitions; on first partition is only the system (windows and programs). The second partition is for archive and everyday stuff.
> When I installed my operating system (windows, programs, drivers,...) I made an image of the whole (freshly installed) system with the program 'Acronis True Image'. So, when somethings goes wrong I just rewrite the image on the HD and in 9 or 10 minutes I have again freshly installed system.
> That's why I have on the first partition only the operating system so when I rewrite an image the other stuff on the second partition and the other HD stays intact.
> 
> Never trust the computer and especially never trust the windows.


I'm working with my son now to make a backup system/plan. That wouldn't have saved any of the pictures I downloaded the other day probably, but at least it will save the rest. And I did finally find all my previous pictures I had saved, and files. I can access them, but can't load any more with them. ??? But am in the process of dumping a load of t hem I don't really need - I probably have at least a hundred car forum links saved, and almost that of comicstrip links. Plus a bunch of trash.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Finally got a picture of the master for router plates for my table. The 'down' on it is to remind me to put that side down on the worst side of the plywood, then tack it down. Then when the new plate is outed out, the good side will be the side that shows in the table. It also makes the nail holes be on the bottom side, out of sight. The lopped off corner will go on the right of the plate, making sure I won't screw up and get the bad side up. It's two layers of 1/2" plywood. The hole for the bit needs a hole drilled in it, so I can rout that out. You should be able to see three black dots marked around the bit hole. These will be drilled through, to be pilot holes for making holes for the scews to hold the plate to the router base. This will also get enlarged to a about a 1/8" depth, so allow a washer, and the screws to be just below the top of the plate. I'll also drill nail pilot holes thru it. If I ever get a router with base holes that don't match the ones in the master, just a simple matter of setting the router on the master, aligning it up, mark where the holes are (if a pencil won't go thru the holes, just use a nail), then drill. No prob.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Theo, I like your setup. And you can have a blank one with no holes in it if you want to just have a smooth surface.

And this is just a thought, something like this might protect the main part of the table and make it so you can do glue ups and things on it when not using the router:

http://countertops.rustoleumtransformations.com/

When I do my new table, I am going to finish it with that stuff.

But how do adjust the height of the bit? Do you have to pull the plate out every time you need to adjust it? Or is the underside accessable enough that you can adjust it in place?


----------



## Hutzul (Oct 4, 2012)

*I agree with Joat*

Hi Joat, 
'I'm on a fixed income, but could buy items I need; however, almost all of them are not exactly what I would need, so better to make my own and get what I want. Then there's the fact that making my own is cheaper, but I'd probably make my own even if I had buckets of money, more fun that way.'
I'm in the same situation and share your sentiments exactly. :yes4::yes4:


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Chris Curl said:


> Theo, I like your setup. And you can have a blank one with no holes in it if you want to just have a smooth surface.
> 
> And this is just a thought, something like this might protect the main part of the table and make it so you can do glue ups and things on it when not using the router:
> 
> ...


Yes, could, but after several years use still have had no call for just a smooth surface. 

Nope, I don't do glue ups, painting, or anything like that on the router table; not going to put any type of finish on it either. But will wind up doing some of my glue-ups on the wooden base I am making for my slider mitre saw. Did on on the old, non-slider, and it increased the cut from 4+ " to something like 7 7/8", with 1/2" plywood. Not sure just what my cut will be with this one. I'll try to find the picture I took of in progress.

Yep, just pop the plate out, turn it all sideways, and quick and easy bit adjustment. The other day was the first time I've had to adjust it in several years tho. I've tried that under the table adjustment before, which is one reason I now have plates. 

Have two pictures of the saw. Started with 1/2" plywood base, and a 2X4 on edge glued on as a fence. Drilled holes where the original fence was bolted down. Then lined the fence with the blade, and tightened the bolts - actually took several tries before lineup was good, may have to fine tune it a tad more after it is completed. The other one was dead on in accuracy, so I can get good results with this if pay attention. It works for me, because all I will be cutting are 90 degree cuts. The pictures are not great, kind of got washed out by the flash, but they show 2X4 pieces being glued to the plywood base, then when they are all down I will glue a plywood top on it, and it will almost be finished. Then I'll have to make stop blocks for each cut I want to make, and those will take a bit of tuning. I'll likely cut them about 1/32" long, then just sand to size. Possibly I can mod the 2X4 fence (which has a piece of 1X4 on the front of it) so I can just use the old stop blocks; I'm thinking I can do that. For a 5" wide cut on the old saw, I got an exact 5" on each end, measued with a digital calipher, so I have high hopes fo this one. I'd still be using it too, but butnt the motor up.  The 2X4s in the front come forward far enough so that the saw cut will be about 1" short of the end, which is one more way I try to keep me away from the whirly parts. The saw should not go thu tthe 2X4 either if I calculated right, but if it does, no problem, because I will cfheck it, and if it does, I will glue thick enough wood under that the blade will not cut all the way thru. There will be some small spaces under the top of it that I will put pencils and such, and I am careful about reaching under running blades and such, but the non-blade exposure will be a just in case thing.

Huh, should have just discarded that first shot. The second one is much better, and the 4X4 is just on a piece of 2X4 to hold it down while the glue sets. And on the other side, by the glue bottle, that piece of 2X4 is just sitting on top of a piece that was glued the day before, it will be used elsewhere.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks Theo. Your approach, being completely unlike any other approach I have seen, opens up a whole new area of possibilities for me to think about while planning my new router table design.

I do glue ups anywhere and everywhere there is space. my router table is a really more of a worbench that happens to have a router sticking up through the middle of it.

Was your old, non-sliding, miter saw a 10" or a 12"? Mine is a 10", and I'd like to be able to cut wider pieces as well.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Chris Curl said:


> Thanks Theo. Your approach, being completely unlike any other approach I have seen, opens up a whole new area of possibilities for me to think about while planning my new router table design.
> 
> I do glue ups anywhere and everywhere there is space. my router table is a really more of a worbench that happens to have a router sticking up through the middle of it.
> 
> Was your old, non-sliding, miter saw a 10" or a 12"? Mine is a 10", and I'd like to be able to cut wider pieces as well.


Not sure where I get ideas like that. But when I do I think about them for awhile, and decide if they will work or not. Then go from there. 

The old saw was/is 10", and max cut was 4 11/16". After it was something like 7 1/2" or so. But like I said, I mostly cut just plywood with it. Sometimes I would cut a 12" wide board by making a cut, flipping the piece, then carefully linking up the blade with the cut, and cutting the uncut portion. Works, but sometimes doesn't quite line up. I keep forgetting to double check what the cut on the new saw will be, I'm hoping for at least 18", up from 12". Oh yeah, with the size of the pieces I normally cut, 12" or less, it's much faster using the mitre saw than to go to my bench/table saw. With the stop blocks, much, much, faster setting up accurate cuts over the bench/table saw also.


----------



## Ironman50 (Jun 5, 2012)

Hope your computer gets fixed so we can see pictures of your amazing build.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Ironman50 said:


> Hope your computer gets fixed so we can see pictures of your amazing build.


Not sure how amazing this is, but it will save me a lot of time when it's finished, and it's a rather fun project. This picture shows the last three pieces of 2X4 glued down, next will be plywood for the top, and a couple of removable covers over the four hold down bolts. There's a lot of overkill, what with all the 2X4s, but I want it solid, in case I want to pound on it or something,


----------

