# Four foot long router table?



## CreeksideDesigner (Apr 22, 2013)

I'm making a router table to make life easier with long stock. I'll be matching old door and window trim. I'll rout the detail and then cut the piece free on the table saw. I have a piece of four foot long combo miter track and I figure why not make the table at least that long? Has anyone done this? Is there something I should be looking out for?

Thanks,
Max


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## FreeTime (Dec 2, 2012)

I recently made a 4' Router table that mounts on sawhorses and hangs on the wall when not in use. The router was centered left/right and slightly back in the table. I don't have alot of time on it yet (one trunk project) but I did enjoy the extra working room. I have not observed a down side to it yet (other than portability and most track availability seems to be 3'). I can't think of anything to be aware of other than its just that much more to keep things flat and straight.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Flat and straight would be my concern. I'd approach this by jointing the edge of some well seasoned hardwood to make a gridwork underneath the table to help keep it flat. I'd also use some really flat MDF and glue some plywood over and under the it for rigidity. It would be very heavy, but pretty stable. I guess I'd also be inclined to finish it off by sealing the whole thing. I'd definitely order some track and rout out an opening for a mounting plate. A table that size, I really want a lift to adjust height and change bits from the top. My knees would rebel at dipping underneath such a large table. I used the bracing to keep my folk-up table saw outfeed table nice and flat. The braces were jointed flat, used a drill press to make holes through which screws were run into the MDF top. The depth of the holes was set very carefully so the screws would not penetrate the top. I also used glue to strengthen the whole thing. I have a small shop and my 20 by 60 inch workbench will be getting a removable 36 x 66 inch top made the same way. It will store behind the work table when not in use. Hope this helps.


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## CreeksideDesigner (Apr 22, 2013)

Glad to hear I didn't miss anything. Mark, Kreg makes the 48" combo track. I got it at a small local place, the Saw Dust Shop (I am not affiliated so I hope it's OK to mention.) And Tom, I'm thinking about making a grid of angle iron (or aluminum) and just one thickness of 3/4" Russian Birch (half the price of Baltic Birch and almost as many plies) to keep the weight down. Or is that just too skimpy?

Cheers
-Max


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I just wish I had the available space to fit a 4' long router table in. At this time I have a no longer used lathe killing that idea. But I do have enough space to extend the sides of my present table, and a few inches on the front, which I'll probably do. I can't think of any downsides to a 4' table, I'd go for it in a heartbeat.


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## woodcurls (May 11, 2011)

I have a six foot router table that buts up to the right side of my table saw to use as support for wide panels I cut on the table saw. I also have an out feed table behind my table saw. Both are exactly the same height as my saw so it makes one large table saw. 

I can route very long stock on the router table as well as cut large panels on the table saw.

I love the setup and I would say go for it.


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## FreeTime (Dec 2, 2012)

I took a similar approach to what Tom described, 2'x4' project board (HD special, laminate coated particle board) cemented to 3/4 MDF on the flatest surface I could find. I trimmed it with a maple edge and put poly on the MDF/exposed particle board. The 2x4 dimensional lumber H-Frame underneath added some rigidity as well as providing a way to secure it to the saw horses. I don't have much concern on the table flatness staying where it is but it does take a small block and tackle to hoist up on the wall when storing. 

You may want to check the clearance on any framing you put underneath (as well as the insert cutout) with the router you are going to use. You lose 1.5 inches just in table depth with the mount - I have to pull the handles off my DeWalt 618 so it mounts to the insert but the good news is the height adjustment screw on the unit doesn't require me to be under the table to deal with it. (no visual required)

The maple fence that I made is another story - I wish I had a piece or two of 3" aluminum angle as a reference base. The fence was true when I put it together but the movable pieces seem to have acquired a slight warp at the ends (about 1/16"+ over each 2' span) over the course of a couple months. I'll true it up but if it doesn't stay put I'll probably replace it with an MDF / hardboard variant


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## downhill (Nov 21, 2008)

Mine is 4 foot wide. I built this one. 

Stow-and-Go Router Table - Fine Woodworking Video

The only difference being that I used plywood for the support and I laminated the top.


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Hi Max, I see no drawbacks to a 4' table. My concern would be with in-feed and out-feed space for long moldings. I still don't think you can beat 2 layers of laminated MDF. One layer of ply of any kind could be problematic due to the t-track slots and miter track slot reducing the effective thickness of the plywood, and add the cut out for the router and plate, and you are asking for problems. On a 4' table I know all this combined would be a problem.


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## CreeksideDesigner (Apr 22, 2013)

great video Downhill, thanks


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## CreeksideDesigner (Apr 22, 2013)

Hey Willway, how does MDF do in humid conditions? And you are sooo right about the thickness. I hope I would have realized it before I started routing but you saved me the possible embarrassment. 

-Max


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## CreeksideDesigner (Apr 22, 2013)

Mark, do you have a design that you like for your new fence? Did you see the one in the video that Downhill just posted?
-Max


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

downhill said:


> Mine is 4 foot wide. I built this one.
> 
> Stow-and-Go Router Table - Fine Woodworking Video
> 
> The only difference being that I used plywood for the support and I laminated the top.


Hi Downhill, great video, I can see where this would be great for a job site setup if the legs were modified to be more stable on there own.


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

CreeksideDesigner said:


> Hey Willway, how does MDF do in humid conditions? And you are sooo right about the thickness. I hope I would have realized it before I started routing but you saved me the possible embarrassment.
> 
> -Max


Max I really can't say as I live in West Texas, we haven't seen any quite a while!!!! The trick to MDF is to laminate both sides (top and bottom) and add some kind of banding (I used 3/4 poplar). This keeps the moisture out. Some people just use poly or paint on the bottom.


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

CreeksideDesigner said:


> Hey Willway, how does MDF do in humid conditions? And you are sooo right about the thickness. I hope I would have realized it before I started routing but you saved me the possible embarrassment.
> 
> -Max


Max there would be no embarrassment, but could save you a whole lot of 'gee whiz, golly dangs, and shucky durns' and that can be embarrassing.


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## FreeTime (Dec 2, 2012)

Max, to answer your question, I guess I don't really have a favorite fence design. I did consider a design (pivots on one end) similar to the one in the video - its simple, clean ... or even over the side clamping. I decided for something different - standard front to back movement on 2 half tracs. I think the decision at the time had to do with having a consistent orientation to a miter slot - which is still moot since I don't have one in yet anyway . And perhaps not wanting to reorient (although minor) myself on the table depending on the widths I would be dealing with. (my location I don't have 360deg access to the table. If I had pics handy I'd share but I'm not finding them on this machine


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I noticed that the table in the video was made of ordinary grade ply and was just one layer thick. The bracing underneath would help keep that flat in the middle, but I'd bet you'd soon get warping on the outside edges, rendering the table useless. The extra thickness of MDF glued top and bottom to high grade ply and edged with hardwood to seal the MDF in, would be quite stable on a 4 ft table. You'd also have plenty of thickness for a miter track. Add some good strong 3/4 inch, jointed, dead flat bracing and you'd have a pretty stable, flat table top. You'd have weight, yes, but a light weight table, seems to me, would be less likely to start or stay flat, particularly off to either or both ends of the table. 

I bet once you set this table up, particularly if you made it the same height as your table saw, you'd rarely move it. You could even attach it by hinges to your table saw and have it double up as an outfeed table, that folded up out of the way when you need the space. My outfeed table has a couple of folding legs to support it with screw type height adjusters on the bottom of each. The flat legs in the video could be set up to fold up under the table.

One other suggestion. Get a piece of 1/4 dense fiberboard (Used to call it masonite) that covers the saw and the fold up table and you have a 4x4 foot assembly table. You could put a 1 1/2 bracing around the edges of this topper to hold it in place. Drill a couple of holes and you can hang it up out of the way. This top will preserve the surface of both your router table and table saw. Since this top doesn't need to be perfectly flat, light bracing would work. 

For your fence, I agree you should special order some aluminum angle iron to back it up and help keep it from warping. With a 4 foot top, you're not going to find an aluminum commercial fence anywhere near long enough. 

Thinking this through has been a great experience and gave me some ideas for improving my own small shop. Thanks for the question.


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