# Started my first router table build today



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Hi all,

First of all I have updated my profile with more information.

Second, thank you all for posting your posts I have learnt so much reading them. Even though I joined this site a over a year a ago I got into wood turning into a big way and that has taken my time so I am still a beginner when it comes to routing. I picked up a copy of Furniture and cabinet making and became inspired again, hence the new Triton TRB001(I saved up all my Christmas present money to buy it) and now the new router table.

My router table is going to be a cabinet with my table saw on the left and the router on the right. I got the idea from you guys, thanks.

I asked on another post about making inserts for router plates because I wasn't sure if I had purchased the wrong type of plate, I told you I'm a beginner. Well after reading some of Bobs posts with links to video sites,thanks Bobj3, I have watched hours and hours of the stuff.

I decide to stick with the veritas base plate even though it doesn't have removable inserts but after watching some episodes of the router workshop I'm not sure I need them. I can make another plate when I need to use my cabinet bit set and getting the template guides for the base plate seems like good sense.

Well the top is made of hardwood plywood 1 inch thick and I used the same stuff to box it out underneath to give it some ridgidity.

The veritas plate is fitted to my new Triton and the ply top has been routed out to fit the plate.

I have installed t track along the front for feather boards etc and some either side of the router front to back for the fence.

I will take some pics soon, (just need to find out how to post photos)

I am going to take the advice from the post about improving norms table, ie height of the table and wheels. My back is a bit sore after just doing today's work. The wheels will defo help as my shop is so small.

Thanks again to you all, Simon


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Sounds like you're making good progress, Simon.


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Cheers Ralph,

today's progress,not much really but here goes, I mounted the router table on temporary legs so I can use the router to help build the cabinet. I made a tray underneath so I don't loose the router bits and bobs. Maybe a little to KISS. It's very rough and ready from timber lying around the shop.I Inserted the router in the table just to play with the above table height adjustment.

I then Started cutting up material for the cabinet,I cut sides and the base for the table saw.

I then ran out of wood and need to go to the timber yard tomorrow.

I have taken photo's but I cant post until I have done 10 posts so watch this space.

Cheers, Si


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

As Promised some pics of the table, then on its very rough legs and finally the tray in the bottom.

Thanks for looking, Si


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Simon

Looks good ,,,may I suggest you pop the router out and turn it 90 deg.to the left so the crank is on the from side of the table top,,when you use the fence the crank hole will be covered up by the fence..

========



chickenslippers said:


> As Promised some pics of the table, then on its very rough legs and finally the tray in the bottom.
> 
> Thanks for looking, Si


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Thanks Bob, just done it now. Oops Just a little bit of an oversight. 

It does appear to be a slight negative on Triton's behalf. With the router now in it's new position the start switch is at the back and you have to reach around to switch it on. I will have to be careful how much room I leave myself when I build the cabinet underneath the table. The start switch is a toggle switch though, so when its switched on it stays on and I can control power from an external start/stop switch that I am reclaiming off my old small ally built router table. 

Thanks for looking, I will post more pics as I progress,

Cheers Si


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Your Welcome  ,, here's a link you may want to check out, it's for the Triton router and a real plus for it when the fence is in place ,you can make one easy and it worth the time to do so..

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/12608-triton-2-1-4-router.html

========



chickenslippers said:


> Thanks Bob, just done it now. Oops Just a little bit of an oversight.
> 
> It does appear to be a slight negative on Triton's behalf. With the router now in it's new position the start switch is at the back and you have to reach around to switch it on. I will have to be careful how much room I leave myself when I build the cabinet underneath the table. The start switch is a toggle switch though, so when its switched on it stays on and I can control power from an external start/stop switch that I am reclaiming off my old small ally built router table.
> 
> ...


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Nice one Bob,
I will easily be able to make one of them 90deg spanners. I Will check out how to lock off without bringing it to the top using a pin or something like you suggested.

Thanks again, SI


----------



## mlstclair (Jan 17, 2011)

really did a nice job. well done


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Thanks Mark,
I am very happy with it so far. If my usually reliable car hadn't let me down today I would have had some more pics as I could have got the wood I need to continue. After Bob's advice I'm really excited and want to carry on.
Hopefully tomorrow.

Cheers, Si


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

chickenslippers said:


> Thanks Bob, just done it now. Oops Just a little bit of an oversight.
> 
> It does appear to be a slight negative on Triton's behalf. With the router now in it's new position *the start switch is at the back and you have to reach around to switch it on*. I will have to be careful how much room I leave myself when I build the cabinet underneath the table. The start switch is a toggle switch though, so when its switched on it stays on and I can control power from an external start/stop switch that I am reclaiming off my old small ally built router table.
> 
> ...


Another option is to use an external power switch, so the on-router switch can be left in the O-N position. 

Safety Power Tool Switch - Rockler Woodworking Tools


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

" so when its switched on it stays on and I can control power from an external start/stop switch "

========



Ralph Barker said:


> Another option is to use an external power switch, so the on-router switch can be left in the O-N position.
> 
> Safety Power Tool Switch - Rockler Woodworking Tools


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

That's the plan Ralph, below is the one I reclaimed off my old router table. The stop start switch is on the front and you can plug 2 items into the back, router and dust extraction.

I made my T bolts today and tried them on a temporary fence, they worked well with the wing nut. I used the fence to route a groove in a block of wood. My brother in law needed a piece of wood to raise the front wheel of his push bike when its connected to his turbo trainer to level the bike. YIPPEE I'VE USED MY ROUTER

Bob, a question for you if I may, how big is the hole in your router table? mine is 1 1/2 inches so my idea of bending an old spanner to unlock the collet is out. I may have to do that awful word and b b b b buy the one you suggested. Can you post a photo of the device you use to keep the collet in place while you use your spanner, please?

Hopefully get the car going tomorrow, delivery driver didn't arrive with my new car battery until this evening, so hopefully get the wood so I can carry on with my table. 

Many thanks, Si


----------



## Marshall Border (Jan 17, 2011)

Looking real good Simon from here .......


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Simon

The hole in my plate is 3 5/8" in diam. so I can use the big bits  it's just a press in ring..on this table..
The offset " spanner " is one I pickup off the net but I have made many with some old spanners also, the one that work the best are the one you get with some tools, the stamped out type, little bit of grinding to open it up a bit to fit the nut and a little bit of heat and it's done for peanuts...

Here's a snapshot or two of it in place...

=======



chickenslippers said:


> That's the plan Ralph, below is the one I reclaimed off my old router table. The stop start switch is on the front and you can plug 2 items into the back, router and dust extraction.
> 
> I made my T bolts today and tried them on a temporary fence, they worked well with the wing nut. I used the fence to route a groove in a block of wood. My brother in law needed a piece of wood to raise the front wheel of his push bike when its connected to his turbo trainer to level the bike. YIPPEE I'VE USED MY ROUTER
> 
> ...


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Thanks Bob,

I don't seem to understand how I'm going to get the spindle to lock without raising it up to the top to bring the auto locking gizzmo bit into play.
It could be that because the Veritas plate only has an inch and a half opening and no removable inserts it may not be possible in such a tight space.

Sorry to pester you.

Cheers, Si


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Thanks very much Marshall,

I am very pleased so far and I am looking forward to progressing further.

Its great to be able to get so many good ideas from this forum.

Cheers, Si


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Simon

Just crank it up to the top and put your hand under the router table top and push the Lock Pin in on the router, slip on the spanner and free up the bit..just that quick and easy, they real key is to have a bigger hole in your Veritas plate, very easy job to do..

=========



chickenslippers said:


> Thanks Bob,
> 
> I don't seem to understand how I'm going to get the spindle to lock without raising it up to the top to bring the auto locking gizzmo bit into play.
> It could be that because the Veritas plate only has an inch and a half opening and no removable inserts it may not be possible in such a tight space.
> ...


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Bob ,Sussed it, I had the wrong of the stick, silly me. 

The spindle lock off pin goes up and down with the collet because it's part of the main router body, it's just the auto engage chamfer part that's at the top. I was thinking the pin was at the top also.
So all you have to do is rotate the collet with the pin and push in the pin, but you know all this don't you buddy. With the lock off pin pushed in and a bent spanner,the bit change can be done without altering bit height.

So all I have to do now is get the bent spanner and make an extension for the lift handle, easy peasy.

Well I fixed the car and managed to get the much needed wood. My goodies arrived from Axminster. I ordered 6 lockable castor wheels for the router table, a Y piece for my dust extraction, 2.5m of 100mm dust extraction hose, 2 blast gates and my 19mm straight bit.
Unfortunately as people advised me on my other post in the router bit section none of the wood was 19mm thick. 1 sheet was 18mm and the other was 18.2mm. I'm back in work tomorrow so hopefully next week I will actually start to make cabinet.

Cheers, Si


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Si


Just a note about the offset spanner, it can be anything you have around the shop,little heat to bend it over and grind out the spanner to fit the nut will work..the shorter the better to a point, a 22mm or 24mm spanner can be a little bit to long the norm.. 

=============



chickenslippers said:


> Bob ,Sussed it, I had the wrong of the stick, silly me.
> 
> The spindle lock off pin goes up and down with the collet because it's part of the main router body, it's just the auto engage chamfer part that's at the top. I was thinking the pin was at the top also.
> So all you have to do is rotate the collet with the pin and push in the pin, but you know all this don't you buddy. With the lock off pin pushed in and a bent spanner,the bit change can be done without altering bit height.
> ...


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Wow, this fence took longer than I thought it would to make. It took me all day, I just wanted to get it right and square.

I added T track to the two piece fence so I can mount/attach feather boards or tunnels etc.

The first photo is of my new top with it's split fence and air extraction fitted at the back.

Second photo shows all my hard work paid off as my fence is perfectly square.

The third photo shows the back of the fences and how easily it's all adjustable with just wing nuts. I have made it so the split fence can open up to 100mm, the biggest cutter I have is 80mm but I thougth I would plan ahead just in case.

The final photo shows a piece of MDF with a rebate routed all the way round. The dust that's on the table top is all that's left after the dust extraction did it's bit.

I am so happy with how the fence turned out.

I have decided to alter how I am going to build my cabinet. I am now going to build a cabinet for the router and a cabinet base for the table saw and make them so they can attach and come apart easily. This will make it easier to clean the workshop.

Next job is to make a dado jig so I can start my cabinets.

Cheers, Si


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Today's progress,

First photo, Well before I started cutting up the wood for cabinet I decided to put my guard back on the table saw. I altered the guard so as to incorporate dust extraction in an effort to reduce dust. This worked very well and I'm very pleased with it.
Second photo, Some of the cabinet shelves were to wide for my table saw extension tables so I clamped the new router table to the saw and clamped a temp fence to the router table.
Third photo, I marked the first line ready to cut my first ever dado.
Forth photo, The first part of the dado jig is clamped to the line.
Fifth photo, Put the shelf that's going in the dado next to the first part of the jig then sandwich it between the second part.
Sixth photo, routing out the dado with the guide bush fitted to my hand held router.
Seventh photo, My first ever dado and its nice and tight.
Eighth photo, One side completed all dado's.

Hopefully tomorrow I will complete all the dado's and have the cabinet complete. 

Cheers Si


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Today's progress,
I finished off routing all the dado's using the technique in the previous thread. 

When I came to dry fitting I noticed things were a little to tight. I couldn't understand how seeing as I was using a jig with the shelf in between. I then noticed some of my pieces were slightly curved and when I really clamped them tight between the dado jig it straightened out the wood. This was OK when I just putting two pieces together but when trying to dry fit all together the slightly curved pieces offered to much resistance. I went back over the really tight joints and routed off just a teeny weeny bit.

I proved everything fit OK with a dry fit, clamped together as shown in the first photo.

The second photo shows the cabinet fully glued and screwed together.

Tomorrow I will fit the router table to the new cabinet and then play with my new dovetail jig and hopefully make some draws.

Cheers, Si


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

That sure drives home the value of the dry fitting, eh?


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Your not wrong there Jim, I felt confident that it would just slip together because I had used a jig and guide bushes. I nearly did start to glue straight away.:nono:

All I can say is this has been a big enjoyable learning curve for me. I am still such a novice when it comes to routing. This has been my first routing project, I have never used one properly before.

I will always dry fit everything in future.

Cheers, Si


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Nice progress, Simon.


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Thanks Ralph, I feel as though I have made great progress in the last couple of days.

Today's progress was slower than I thought.

The first photo shows my old stop start switch off my old router station. I managed to disassemble and separate the stop, start switches and the sockets which worked out great. Going from advice on this forum I will be unplugging my router when I change bits, so having the sockets easily accessible is the only way forward. 

The second photo shows my router table fitted to my new cabinet.

The reason for the slow progress today is trying to set up my new dove tail jig. OMG these cheap jigs needs some time and effort in setting up. I am going to go back and look for dovetail jig posts. I have bought the Axminster jig from here in the UK. I understand the reason for a cheap price is the less they have to do or offer in the product, but they have laser etched 1/2" into the jig so how much extra cost would it be to add the half way line etched into the first and last finger of the template. The horizontal end stop is separated from the vertical end stop, how much extra would it cost to have them as one piece. Stop RANTING.

Cheers Si


----------



## JohnWP (Jan 26, 2011)

Nice looking build! 

John


----------



## JOVIMECA (Feb 3, 2010)

great tables!


----------

