# Table Saw Infeed Table Extension



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I hope to be able to use my Incra Miter Gauge to cut some pieces for an upcoming project that will require 20 inch cross cuts. Currently, the max I can cut safely crosscut is about 12 inches.

I browsed the internet for ideas, then commenced to draw my version of the extension.

The attached drawings show my saw table top (27 x 48), the 3 inch x 3 inch angle iron with the 3 inch x 1 3/4 inch steel tube attached. The fence slides on the steel tube.

The new extension table will be about 24 inches wide x 11 - 12 inches deep. I will attach it by using at least one Rockler Universal Fence Clamp (Item #31373), and maybe a second one. I will have to figure that out later.

I don't want to, but if I have to, I can position a roller stand to support the extension.

The main part of the table will be about 1 inch thick. That should be easy to make since I have some 1/2 inch Baltic birch. The two support pieces will be attached with screws. I have a piece of Formica that just might be wide enough to cover the top.

My main concern is to make the extension easy to attach and remove.

Your thoughts and ideas appreciated.
Thanks
Mike


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

MT Stringer said:


> I hope to be able to use my Incra Miter Gauge to cut some pieces for an upcoming project that will require 20 inch cross cuts. Currently, the max I can cut safely crosscut is about 12 inches.
> 
> I browsed the internet for ideas, then commenced to draw my version of the extension.
> 
> ...


Mike,

You sure do have my attention. I am currently working on cedar chest lid. It is 23" x 43" x 3/4" and made of four boards joined together with splines. After the glue up, the lid had to be trimmed to the 43" width. As you noted, very cumberson on my TS which is of the same dimensions.

H have the the Incra Express Sled and the fence for my Incra V27. The set up is not a good arrangement for a 23" cross cut especially one of the length of the lid. Made the cuts with great care, both ends, one to clean up and the other to my desired width of 43". 

I'd like to make more chests in the future but do not look forward to the trimming to width as described above.

I have been giving thought to something like you are describing and is why your thread has my attention. I will be following your progress.

Do you not have the fence with the extention for your miter gauge? For myself, it is a necessity when crossing cutting to an exact dimension.

Keep up the good fight/work.

Jerry


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Can I sell you on the idea of a crosscut sled? I built one that can crosscut 26 inches.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks. I have one also but I am getting a lot of use out of the Incra Miter Gauge.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

@ Jerry - "Do you not have the fence with the extention for your miter gauge?"

Yes sir. I didn't include it in the drawings because the miter gauge drawing bogged the drawing down with all the detail in it. I downloaded the miter gauge from the Trimble 3D Warehouse. Someone did a great job of creating it. I was just happy to be able to draw the piece of angle iron to exact size. :smile:

I had to go look. I have the Incra 1000 HD. And as you are well aware, when you draw the miter gauge back, sometimes the fence extension drops off the table. That is where the aggravation comes into play. I am going to try to remedy that little problem.

The table extension will also make it easier to use my sled simply because it will add some support to what normally hangs over the saw table when I set up for a cut.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Mike:
Looks like your on the right track with your design. I've attached an image I found but won't/can't post a link - it takes you to "Ted's Woodworking Plans" - you don't want to go there.

Vince


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks. I saw that also. I managed to "Save As" and capture the image. I hate Ted and the horse he rode up on!

That's where I got the idea for the clamps, which I already have on hand to attach a sacrificial fence when using the dado stack.


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## MYB506 (Dec 5, 2012)

I have been wanting to do the same for a long time so I'll be interested to see your results. If you don't want to buy clamps here's a way to make your own - https://atelierdubricoleur.wordpress.com/?s=fence+clamp


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I'm going to make one of these. Mostly I do cabinets but would like to make some chests as well. I think it would be a good idea to have the rail underneath, on the outside of the saw's front rail, be adjustable so the clamps apply uniform pressure to the saw's rail. Not quite sure how to make that solid, but I think with an aluminum front rail on the saw, I don't think its a good idea to clamp directly to the metal. Any thoughts, or do you just make the fit very tight?


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

MT Stringer said:


> @ Jerry - "Do you not have the fence with the extention for your miter gauge?"
> 
> Yes sir. I didn't include it in the drawings because the miter gauge drawing bogged the drawing down with all the detail in it. I downloaded the miter gauge from the Trimble 3D Warehouse. Someone did a great job of creating it. I was just happy to be able to draw the piece of angle iron to exact size. :smile:
> 
> ...


I sure know about the extention dropping down as you mentioned. I bet that all of the interest in the issue we will come up with some answers. You sure have started a good thread and will get lots of "like".


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

*Revision #1*

I made a few changes. :smile:

I realized that I didn't need the entire piece to be 11 1/2 inches deep. All I really need is for a place for the miter gauge to rest when I draw it back. So, I trimmed away some of the unused area.

I also created a way to add a second Rockler fence clamp by boring a hole in the support board just large enough for the 5/16 "L" shaped bolt to fit through. Then it clamps the rectangular steel guide tube to the rear wooden table support.

I also added a filler block that will be glued/screwed in between the two support boards. I may be able to add an additional clamp of some sort once I get it built. The problem is the ON/OFF switch for the saw is directly under it. :frown:

The table will be one inch thick and constructed from 2 pieces of 1/2 inch mdf, which I just so happen to have. I also have a piece of white Formica that will work for the table top.

I have attached some pics of the temporary layout I have come up with. According to the rulers, I can easily crosscut at least 19 inches and maybe 20. That remains to be seen. And, I can rip material as narrow as 10 inches without the fence hitting the table extension.

Removing part of the table extension also will make it easier to reach the ON/OFF switch. :yes4:

As I have mentioned, I have a crosscut sled that I can use with the table extension. And if all else fails, I can resort to using the track saw which I have used in the past.

Here's some pics.
Mike


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## ayryq (Apr 5, 2011)

Hey, I showed up here looking for a solution to exactly the same problem (same miter gauge, even). Still trying to figure out how to secure something to my Bosch worksite saw (which has even less room between the front of the table and the blade).

Anyway, I wanted to mention that the picture associated with Ted's Woodworking on the previous page is actually from Popular Woodworking magazine, November 2011 issue #193.

EDIT: Wanted to also ask about your choice to make the infeed extension lower than the table top (at the level of the bottom of the miter slot). Don't you find the incra fence catches on the front of the table saw? I'm imagining a "runner" at table-height along the left edge of the extension would be helpful.

Eric


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

ayryq said:


> Hey, I showed up here looking for a solution to exactly the same problem (same miter gauge, even). Still trying to figure out how to secure something to my Bosch worksite saw (which has even less room between the front of the table and the blade).
> 
> Anyway, I wanted to mention that the picture associated with Ted's Woodworking on the previous page is actually from Popular Woodworking magazine, November 2011 issue #193.
> 
> ...


It will be level once it is installed. Life has gotten in the way once again. I have the two pieces of mdf glued together but that is as far as I have gotten. My last project took much longer than expected to complete.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

And now for an update on this project. It is finished!:dance3:

Last week, I had some spare time so I laminated a piece of Formica to the mdf.

Yesterday, I spent some time working on it and finished it today.

The pictures tell the story. I trimmed the Formica with a flush trim bit.
The finished thickness was a little too thick, so I ran it through the sander a few times until I got the proper thickness.

Then I scrounged through the lumber pile until I found a couple of pieces of pine to rip and cut to fit. I rounded the outer ends and drilled a hole in one piece for the Kreg fence clamp to fit in.

On the other piece, I drilled out an opening with a Forstner bit so the clamp can fit through it and clamp against the fence tube. The clamp doesn't work as I had drawn it. I had to add a spacer for the outer part of the clamp to clamp against.

So far, I am pleased with the finished project. I glued and pocket screwed the runners to the table. Without pulling the miter off the table, I can cut 13 inches. But by pulling it back onto the extension, I have an additional 3-4 inches.

The two clamps keep the extension securely attached to the fence tube.

It was a fun build from design to finished project.

I hope to get some good use out of it.
Thanks for looking.
Mike


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

You might be wondering "How did he keep the project still while he routed the edge with the flush trim bit?" Or maybe you weren't curious about it.

Anyway, here's how I did it.

I have a jig that has four bolts that I can attach to my work table from underneath by passing the bolts through the slots. Each bolt has a piece of wood for a cross piece that secures the jig with a knob.

Prior to setting it up, I screwed it to the underside of my project and then snugged the whole thing to the work table from below with the cross pieces and knobs.

Actually, I only used two of the bolts/knob. That was good enough to hold everything secure while I was running the router.

Works for me. This is not the first time I have used this jig. It hangs on the wall ready to go when I need it.


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