# Drill Press Table



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I'm in the process of making a new DP table. At this point the 2x 3/4"thick plywood panel is 28" side to side and 21" deep (front to back).
Seems a bit oversize, front to back. Is there a normal dimension for that? 
I'm trying to keep it large enough to do euro hinge drilling on cab. doors. I haven't done the hardwood edging yet so reducing it isn't a problem.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

That's a pretty sizable table, but since you are doing doors, larger is probably better. I have been looking at a laser guide to help with positioning the bit, this one on Amazon is $40. https://www.amazon.com/DRILL-PRESS-...33510&sr=8-1&keywords=drill+press+laser+guide

The other picture is of a large table, which seems very practical for door hinges, if you have the space. You would have lots of support, and I'd imagine it will be easy to level at that size.

Did you put in a replacable insert?


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Mine is 24" wide and about 14" deep. This size works for me but I would think it depends on what your drilling the most. I also have a replaceable center piece [4" X 4"] that I really like. Before I had the center piece I laid a piece of wood on top of the table to drill into. I didn't like that at all. I also have some centers made up so will not have to stop what I am doing and make one.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

That's pretty big in depth. When I drilled the holes for my doors, i cobbled up a jig to support the overhanging weight.

Lemme see if I can find the pic.
Mike


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

My drill press table build thread
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/42776-new-drill-press-table.html

Dang, I can't find the picture I was looking for. Basically, it was a pair of 2x4's attached to the underside of the drill press table and they extended outward towards the operator. A shim block the thickness of the table was screwed to the 2x's and thus provided support.

I will say that since building my table, I have had no regrets. The T slots and the open slots provide a variety of clamping positions for just about anything I need to drill.

The flip stop blocks make it easy to drill consisent holes, especially on doors. Just flip to the other stop and drill away. I usually drill all of the holes on one end of the doors, then switch the stops and drill the other ends.

Note: I made a jig using a piece of scrap. I bored the hole the correct depth and exact distance from the fence and the end of the cabinet door where it should be drilled. All I have to do is lower the bit into the hole, set the fence and the stop block and I am ready to start drilling.

Hope this helps.
Mike


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

@DaninVan -

Here is the door drilling jig I was talking about.

It is only a set up tool. Note that the distance in between the holes is irrelevant.

The important stuff is:
1) The distance from each end of the door to be drilled (for stop block set up),
2) The distance from the edge of the door to where the hole will be bored (3-4mm)
3) The depth to bore the hole for the hinge cup (for setting the stop on the drill)

Mike


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Thanks, guys; yes, a lot of help!
That pic in Tom's comment is pretty much what I had in mind...I like those rounded front corners...great safety feature. Any idea why they cut down the fence? Seems like it'd be desirable to have stops available on either side(?)...
I thought I'd laminate some scrap 3/4" ply as well, when I laminate the top, to make a bunch of disposable inserts. I was just going to use the holesaw in the DP to get the location where I need it maybe a 2" ? ...3"?
Mike's idea for a jig to preset the hinge locations and depth is a keeper.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> I'm in the process of making a new DP table. At this point the 2x 3/4"thick plywood panel is 28" side to side and 21" deep (front to back).
> Seems a bit oversize, front to back. *Is there a normal* dimension for that?
> I'm trying to keep it large enough to do euro hinge drilling on cab. doors. I haven't done the hardwood edging yet so reducing it isn't a problem.


*Is there a normal* this is a rhetorical question.. correct???

wrecked angle ~ 1/3rd rule...
make the table slideable (T slots length wise on the bottom) to the left and right and you get more usability come large doors...
go w/ a phenolic covered BB ½'' top and a ¼'' bottom w/ a torsion box frame and you'll get a flatter, stronger, more stable, and lighter top...
use adhesive instead of glue...
add an adjustable leg to the end for support when the table is slide all the way to one side...
painters adjustable/telescoping/compression style pole.. cheap and made to order...

.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

That ship's sailed, Stick. The only thing I can change now is the length and width. The sub panel has been routered out to accommodate the 11" diameter cast Iron DP OEM table.
Tee bolts down through the OEM table's vise mtg. slots, with threaded locking knobs below. 
The DP is on a castored machine base; lots of width for stability. And adjustable to accommodate the garage floor slope.
Pics later...I hear the coffee shop calling.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Thanks, Mike. As Stick says, 'keep it simple'...can't get simpler than that. What a time saver! No measuring or calculating means less chance of screwing up.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

@DaninVan

Dan - I spent some time helping out a cabinet maker a while ago. His DP tables for drilling Euro hinge pockets are probably about 1 foot square. Mind you he has two DPs, each set up for each end of the cabinet doors (top/bottom), with a 90 degree stop on each for proper placement.

Keep in mind that the door is not going to have to support itself - when I was drilling the pockets, I always had one hand supporting the door, and one hand on the DP, so I don't think the table has to be large enough to fully support the doors.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

i drill my hinge pockets before assembly. A large support table messes me up if the raised panel protrudes just a bit on a completed door. My big drill press table ( I have three, two are cheap ones) is 12 " deep 24" My fences are 1 3/4" X 3 1/2" solid hickory with a mini trac dado'd in the center and thru bolts into t-trac. I have a hardwood sub frame attached to 3/4" plywood table for strength and attemped flatness. Stick is right a torsion box necessary for flatness. I made a jig from 3/4" plywood 12" x 8'. I screw it down with drywall screws (Just a waxed plywood top no problem for me maybe a bit hill billy for some) It has 3' of mini t-tac dado's in. I use hardwood blocks with 1/4-20 bolts thru bolted for my stop blocks. The jig allows spacing almost 4' from hole center Instead of raising and lowering table I put in or take out dunnage so I never drill holes into my table jusy occasional screw hole


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

@DesertRatTom

I have that laser guide on my drill press, Tom, and quite frankly never use it. It would work well if I was drilling a lot of quick n' dirty holes that needed to be in about the right spot but I have never felt comfortable relying on it for any precision. Maybe others have had better results. I would like to hear their reports.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

the big DP has them...
feel the same way you do Oliver...

http://www.routerforums.com/special-needs-woodworking/82154-drill-press-laser-device.html
http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/79090-wixey-strikes-again.html


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

OK; the tribe has spoken, shallower from front to back then.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

And more pics!


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Gaffboat said:


> @DesertRatTom
> 
> I have that laser guide on my drill press, Tom, and quite frankly never use it. It would work well if I was drilling a lot of quick n' dirty holes that needed to be in about the right spot but I have never felt comfortable relying on it for any precision. Maybe others have had better results. I would like to hear their reports.


I have looked at this thing a couple of times. The Amazon reviews aren't bad for this thing, but it looks a little bulky and like it might be knocked out of alignment in my very tight little shop.

Hope all is well with you. Looking forward to seeing what miraculous project you're working on now.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Seek and Ye Shall Receive (or Something)*



MT Stringer said:


> And more pics!


The Tee bolts will be epoxied in, flush with the top, before the HPL goes on.

The C.I. table has been adjusted for perfectly perpendicular but I'll check it again once the table's completed.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

keep going...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"keep going..."
-Stick

Man; some guys are sure pushy! 

You do realize I had to clean up around the DP to take the pics, right?
Oh, and the workbench also. The vertical board at the back is an offcut; it's just sitting there. I might as well save it and use it for the rear fence, eh?


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Dan you mentioned rounded corners. Yeah I just like the look...and they don't poke me near as bad as the sharp ones!!!


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Dan...couldn't you hinge the front 6 inches so it's up when you need it, down when you durn't...?


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

I'm in the process of making a new DP table. At this point the 2x 3/4"thick plywood panel is 28" side to side and 21" deep (front to back).
Seems a bit oversize, front to back. Is there a normal dimension for that? 
****************************************************************
I'd size the table for your most popular sample sizes.
This one is ~15 x 23 x 3/8 jig plate aluminum.
Notwithstanding, this is one of those cases where I'd rout the socket.
Whence using templets, well made and indexed, cutters/trimmers produce clean walls and flat bottom sockets. Positioning (centering) may be less of a problem too, if the templet holes are accurately located some (typical) fixed distance from the edge & end of the templet.
Easy to clamp down, if acrylic e.g. it will be easy to locate, you don't need much power and support should be less of a problem. Could be a trimmer/cutter is a lot cheaper than a forstner, carbide, or spur bit.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Prices for 35mm Euro hinge Forstner bits are all over the map!
https://www.amazon.ca/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...vptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_71myhvr43z_b

I'm pretty sure I paid around $30Cdn, from PJ White, a few years ago. (Can't remember what brand it is.)
Pat; pictures of your jigs leave me depressed...my stuff is NEVER going to look remotely like that!!


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I am pretty sure my bit is made by Freud. 35mm or 1 3/8 inch.

...and a vixen bit for drilling the screw holes.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

@DaninVan- Check out Kris Reynolds Custom cabinets on you tube. I follow his basic work flow. He demonstrates how he drills the hinge cup holes and the screw holes.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Laters! I'm off to the green waste facility. Everything is growing like stink this year.


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## whimsofchaz (Jun 6, 2013)

Hey Mike I looked at your DP table that is neat. Does the dust collection work? If it does I may make that table. Thanks for digging that up.

Chuck


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

whimsofchaz said:


> Hey Mike I looked at your DP table that is neat. Does the dust collection work? If it does I may make that table. Thanks for digging that up.
> 
> Chuck


Sorta. Works best when using the DP as a sanding drum. But it does suck up the chips when you drill through the sacrificial board.

Lately I haven't been hookin gup the hose. Lazy, I guess.


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