# Bosch 1617 vs 1613



## richinva (Dec 10, 2005)

Was wondering about some of the differences between these two routers, aside from the obvious: 1617 has two different bases, 1613 has a Makita/Hitachi-type housing....

This will be primarily used free hand.

Thanks,

Rich in VA


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Rich, the bases are just one difference, the collets and wrenches are different, the guide bushings are the same. The 1617 is the industrial router that is most copied. I own a pair of 1617's and a 1613. For most home applications either is fine. If you will be putting in long hours using the router the 1617 is beefier and will last longer. For table mounting the 1617 fixed base is the best I have used. If you plan on using the router strictly free hand the 1613 will do the job. Depending on the exact model you get the HP rating will vary between 2 and 2-1/4 and this is plenty for most jobs.


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## luthier nut (May 14, 2007)

I've had problems with my 1613. The plunge clamp mechanism is only on one of the posts. After a couple of years of very light usage, the body started to slip on the post without the clamp. This prettly well ruined the accuracy of the router for me, until I drilled a hole to install a screw that acts as a stop on the other post. Kind of a pain to use but it does help.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi luthier nut

Take out the set screw and pickup a BRASS thumb screw, the knurled type not the wing type, it will look good and work well also..  plus it will not put that little round cup mark on the shaft 
A .50 cent item at ACE hardware..

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luthier nut said:


> I've had problems with my 1613. The plunge clamp mechanism is only on one of the posts. After a couple of years of very light usage, the body started to slip on the post without the clamp. This prettly well ruined the accuracy of the router for me, until I drilled a hole to install a screw that acts as a stop on the other post. Kind of a pain to use but it does help.


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## luthier nut (May 14, 2007)

Yes, I forgot to mention that I am using a brass set screw. I also smoothed the end so it does not have the cup which might scratch the post.

Using this extra set screw is not a huge problem when the router is in a router table, but it is not possible to use it during a hand held plunge cut. Also, the router does not work well in the router table as I have to work against the spring when manually lifting it. I really feel this router is an inferior design and would not recommend it to anyone.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI luthier nut

Don't get me wrong I like set screws but I'm not a big fan of the brass type , they will not leave marks but they are easy to strip ouit the slot that's needed to screw them in place, here's a easy fix, take a standard Allen set screw and clamp in a Allen hex key in a vise put the set screw on the key and take it to the drill press and drill a 1/8" hole in the cup end about 3/16" to 1/4" deep then pickup a 6-32 nylon screw and tap it into the hole out you just drilled out, cut off the nylon screw with a pair of side cutters to about 1/32 " long , now you have just made a no-mar set screw.

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luthier nut said:


> Yes, I forgot to mention that I am using a brass set screw. I also smoothed the end so it does not have the cup which might scratch the post.
> 
> Using this extra set screw is not a huge problem when the router is in a router table, but it is not possible to use it during a hand held plunge cut. Also, the router does not work well in the router table as I have to work against the spring when manually lifting it. I really feel this router is an inferior design and would not recommend it to anyone.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Rich,
I guess the amswer to your question would be the Bosch 1617...That is for sure my next big purchase. Along with......Heck one never runs out of purchasing "toys".
George II


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The 1617 is the better choice of the two, but it also costs quite a bit more. On the other hand the 1613 does a good job at a cost savings. Tough choice. I have a 1613 with very low usage. I replaced the factory wrench with a beefier aftermarket version. It is in the box and available for $100 plus shipping. That might help you make a decision. PM me if you are interested.


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## Dave_Willemain (May 4, 2008)

Mike said:


> Rich, the bases are just one difference, the collets and wrenches are different, the guide bushings are the same. The 1617 is the industrial router that is most copied. I own a pair of 1617's and a 1613. For most home applications either is fine. If you will be putting in long hours using the router the 1617 is beefier and will last longer. For table mounting the 1617 fixed base is the best I have used. If you plan on using the router strictly free hand the 1613 will do the job. Depending on the exact model you get the HP rating will vary between 2 and 2-1/4 and this is plenty for most jobs.


The difference between the 2 and the 2-1/4 hp models is the electronic speed control (EVS). The 1613 is my favorite; it seems smoother than my 1617 with the plunge base. Unfortunately the only way to know which you prefer is to actually use them. If you are as terminally curious as I am, you end up ion dutch with your spouse over your collection!


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## chrisrosenb (Apr 4, 2009)

I prefer the 1613 router over the 1617 plunge router. The newer 1613s have the same base opening as the 1617s. The main reason I prefer the 1613 is because of the micro adjust for the depth setting. The depth can be micro adjusted with the plunge lock engaged.


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