# Thoughts on Router tables



## Absinthe (Nov 8, 2011)

I have a small (might I say tiny) veritas (I think) metal one that is obviously too small and too light and just plain not good enough. 

I have been threatening for years to build my own table, but each time I start researching it, I come up with just one more thing I want to have/do and end up kicking back to the design phase again  

The main issue now is whether to buy a custom insert, make an insert, or make a table that does not use an insert at all (router attached directly to the table itself.

Secondarily, I have a few chunks of countertop stuff, but it is only formica on one side. Most plans that suggest this type of top usually recommend that you cover both sides to avoid warping. How important is this?

Miter gauge slots. half the plans I see say you must have 1 2 or even 3 of these, and others say they are a waste. Of the ones that recommend them some are pushing for T-Track, while others just want to be able to run something in the slot like a miter gauge or some kind of jig. 

Safety pin. I have seen this recommendation, but I am honestly not really all that sure what it is for, or where it should be placed, or when it should be used.

Unless you are using it for planing and jointing is it necessary to have the two part individually adjusting fence? What else is it good for? I understand the use of a fence, what I mean is the independently adjusting part.

The one thing that I actually thought might be useful was to be able to use the router horizontally. Are there any designs that incorporate this as a feature. All I have seen so far are either-or designs. 

Any other experiences or suggestions on the subject would be welcomed. 

-- Abs


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Welcome, I use the slots on my table for featherboards every time I use my table as for warping would be very bad,as for inserts I have aluminum inserts on both tables this helps reduce sag...I have a metal table for sale if interested send me a Private message


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## Absinthe (Nov 8, 2011)

I can't send you PM as I have not posted 10 messages yet


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hi Bradley.
I like the router mounted to a plate with different sized insert rings. This allows almost zero clearance for different size bits. Take them all out to run the larger raised panel bits or to use a bent wrench to loosen collet nut to change bit without having to move router.

I only use the miter slots to mount feather boards & stop blocks for a cuts that don't run the whole length of the material. Fastening this way avoids extra clutter from bulky clamps used for fastening. Some will use the router table to make box joints you can have a sled that runs in the slot for guidance. 

The safety pin (starter pin) is used for curved parts such as the upper rail in a arch top cabinet door. You cannot use the standard fence for curved parts. The pin can only be used when paired with a bit that has a bearing. Start with your piece braced against the pin then ease the material into the bit till it contacts the bearing. Then as long as your material is in contact with the bearing you can come off the pin to complete the machining. The pin is usually screwed into the top to the right of the bit position. If making your own top the plate may have a mounting position or you will have to install an insert to screw into. Some use a half fence instead of a pin. Here's a video of the pin in use.
Using a Router Table Starting Pin - YouTube

An adjustable split fence is a nice add on even if you don't use it for joining. Some bits like a glue joint bit will machine the entire surface so when it comes off the bit the outgoing fence needs a small shim to account for the difference. The material will be on different planes before & after the bit.
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/M..._of_Your_Router_Bits_Glue_Joint_Bit_6784.aspx

One more post & you will be at 10. Just say hi to someone in the introductions forum. It will only take a new member a couple of easy minutes to reach the 10 posts.

http://books.google.com/books?id=Lz...e&q=when to shim a router table fence&f=false


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Absinthe said:


> I have a small (might I say tiny) veritas (I think) metal one that is obviously too small and too light and just plain not good enough.
> 
> I have been threatening for years to build my own table, but each time I start researching it, I come up with just one more thing I want to have/do and end up kicking back to the design phase again
> 
> ...


:laugh:


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

jlord said:


> An adjustable split fence is a nice add on even if you don't use it for joining. Some bits like a glue joint bit will machine the entire surface so when it comes off the bit the outgoing fence needs a small shim to account for the difference. The material will be on different planes before & after the bit.
> Making the Most of Your Router Bits: Glue Joint Bit | Articles | Woodworkers Journal


:wackouhh, Thanks for that James, I've got a couple of profiles that have been driving me nuts with errors on the last inch or so of the stock. I'm gonna bet that's my problem


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Been there myself John.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

As for the formica on both sides, if you have enough extra do it, if not I wouldn't sweat it. I built my router table many years ago, and only did the top, the bottom is still raw MDF, and have had zero issues. The important thing is keep the top well supported. MDF can and will flex on its own due to the weight on it, and having support rails will prevent that from happening.


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## Absinthe (Nov 8, 2011)

Oh, yeah! I forgot the other ever popular:

Centered vs offset?


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Absinthe said:


> Oh, yeah! I forgot the other ever popular:
> 
> Centered vs offset?


This could really be where ever you want. I prefer centered from left to right for equal support before & after the bit. Offset towards the rear front to back so I get maximum support for larger material.


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## Absinthe (Nov 8, 2011)

Maybe I should have said which way to align. I have seen it where there is a vast expanse on one side only. I am pretty sure the reasoning is for space to clamp jigs and other accessories. I am just not sure I have the vocabulary to describe what I am talking about on this aspect.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If the wide open expanse is front to back it makes sense, as you can support a wider piece as already pointed out. If it is to one side, that doesn't make sense to me since if you need support on one side, you need equal support on the other side.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bradley, good questions. If you browse through the many tables shown on the forums you will discover that they all work. You will find that for most jobs you only require a table to be about 16" wide. This gives you enough support before and after the bit. Using miter slots is a matter of choice; bottom line is you do not have to have them. My suggestion for a top is to use 3/4" Baltic birch plywood with laminate top and bottom. Starting pins prevent the wood from being pulled out of your hands or your hands being pulled into a bit when beginning your cut. The pin should be positioned about 2" from your bit. Most plates are drilled or tapped for a starting pin. You can use your fence in the same way if you have clearance for your project. Keep watching the Sticky threads at the top of each section for ideas.


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## Absinthe (Nov 8, 2011)

Thanks. This forum works a little different than others I am on, so it is a little tough to follow multiple threads. I will get it though. 

I think for my first shot I am just going to bolt the router directly to the piece of counter top and put in some support. That should give me something to work with and I can simply clamp things to the table like fence and such until I can fully make good choices. However, FWIW, I might just be able to go with the silly little one I have and perhaps come up with a way to extend the size of it (like auxiliary tables and such) and come up with a way to hard mount it for more stability. That may give me some insight into what I like or need and go from there.


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## theexpozay (Oct 4, 2011)

if your table is low enough you can always use roller stands to help support your in and out feed sides. I do this when I am using my table as a jointer and need to run long stock or on the occasions when I use my router to make trim like 1/4 round or cove for flooring.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just one more way
If you make your own router table you want to make the same height as your table saw in that way you can just roll your router table to it and use it to support long runs..you can also use the fence on the table saw to help run the stock true..


===


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Absinthe said:


> Thanks. This forum works a little different than others I am on, so it is a little tough to follow multiple threads. I will get it though.
> 
> I think for my first shot I am just going to bolt the router directly to the piece of counter top and put in some support. That should give me something to work with and I can simply clamp things to the table like fence and such until I can fully make good choices. However, FWIW, I might just be able to go with the silly little one I have and perhaps come up with a way to extend the size of it (like auxiliary tables and such) and come up with a way to hard mount it for more stability. That may give me some insight into what I like or need and go from there.


Hi Abs - I'm not sure you will be happy with that. The thickness of the countertop absorbs a significant amount of your depth of cut.
Your Veritas table is 3/16" steel, why not just inset that into a larger piece of countertop and use it for a plate? It's size precludes any meaningful use of tracks but could be used as test case. If it works, any machine shop could cut it down to a more desirable size later.


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## taxque (Jun 30, 2009)

Bradley,

Glad to see you made it over. I have a post "Almost Finished- 10 Years + in the making" 
that has pictures of my router table. Did you get the circle routing thing figured out? If not do a search on past posting on this forum and you will fine a lot of good tips.


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## Absinthe (Nov 8, 2011)

This is an image I found on the web. It looks very much not unlike mine

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/CRAFTSMAN-ROUTER-TABLE-925444-/00/$(KGrHqZ,!jIE4rZ)Y27HBOQUCQigJw~~0_35.JPG


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## Absinthe (Nov 8, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Just one more way
> If you make your own router table you want to make the same height as your table saw in that way you can just roll your router table to it and use it to support long runs..you can also use the fence on the table saw to help run the stock true..
> ...


I would really like to make it part of my table saw, but I have yet to figure out how to do with with my saw. It is a rigid 2424. I had considered moving my rails to make it have more than 24" to the right of the blade That would require some auxiliary extension wings of some sort on both sides. But I was not sure I could effectively work a router table top into the mix.


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## Absinthe (Nov 8, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Hi Abs - I'm not sure you will be happy with that. The thickness of the countertop absorbs a significant amount of your depth of cut.
> Your Veritas table is 3/16" steel, why not just inset that into a larger piece of countertop and use it for a plate? It's size precludes any meaningful use of tracks but could be used as test case. If it works, any machine shop could cut it down to a more desirable size later.


I have considered that as well. Ok, it is a craftsman not a veritas, here is a picture I found of the same one
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/CRAFTSMAN-ROUTER-TABLE-925444-/00/$(KGrHqZ,!jIE4rZ)Y27HBOQUCQigJw~~0_35.JPG

Anyway, I am trying to weigh all my options. If I were to simply bolt it into the countertop material, I would route out a round chunk similar to my router base thinning it up to not lose the bit depth. 

I have seen similar tables as mine with wings on them. I imagine that would not be all that difficult an addition. The current design has a split fence with what I think are 1x1 or smaller blocks as the fence. At the very least those could be replaced with something more substantial, and even taller. Since it is a benchtop model, I guess I could make a roller base that it screws to, as the feet have holes in them for doing such things. I will have to check the sides out to see if they are actually ready for wings. Who knows, it might be a useful tool with some work.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

picture

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