# Clock Movement Jig



## maldak (Sep 20, 2006)

Hi,

Just checking to see if anyone would know if there is a jig made for the following.

I have long lengths of Cherry hardwood that I cut down to make clocks. The width of these parts vary - and I need to route 2 1/2" square pockets in the back of these to place the movement into. I drill out the center for the shaft to go through - so I need to place the bit to the center - then cut 2 1/2" around this. I was going to make a frame to place over this and clamp it each time - but I am not sure if there is something made already to make it easier.

Thanks

Tom


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tom

Not that I know about but no real standard for the size of the movements. 
I use a 3 1/8 Forstner bit for that job,it's only 20 bucks and gives me a little bit of adjustment for the movement and it's easy to center it in place..almost all the movements fit right into the round hole.

It's one of the items you don't see from the front of the clock, pie is sq.but round is fine for clocks.  and it's quick and easy..and always very true.

Forstner Bit Set - Peachtree Woodworking Supply

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maldak said:


> Hi,
> 
> Just checking to see if anyone would know if there is a jig made for the following.
> 
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

maldak said:


> Hi,
> 
> Just checking to see if anyone would know if there is a jig made for the following.
> 
> ...


These shots from a couple of my earlier forum projects show how easy it is.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Very nice, but who is going to see it other than the wall  drill bit easy .all done with just one drill bit..no tape or clamps needed .. 

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harrysin said:


> These shots from a couple of my earlier forum projects show how easy it is.


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## maldak (Sep 20, 2006)

Thanks for the help everyone. - Tom


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Very nice, but who is going to see it other than the wall  drill bit easy .all done with just one drill bit..no tape or clamps needed ..
> 
> ======


You really have me confused this time Bob. The remark about the wall referred to the imperfection, the drill bit was the same size as the thickness of the clock mechanism and the template was clearly seen in two shots to be clamped in position.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Sorry to confuse you, all I'm saying why go down the road with all the templates when one drill bit will do it all in one pass on the drill press, the KISS way.

You can't see the round hole or the sq.hole from the front side of the clock just like the imperfection that you put on the back side..

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harrysin said:


> You really have me confused this time Bob. The remark about the wall referred to the imperfection, the drill bit was the same size as the thickness of the clock mechanism and the template was clearly seen in two shots to be clamped in position.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Perhaps I just like to put square pegs in square holes Bob! Perhaps Marlene is right when she accuses me of being pedantic.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

" pedantic "

I would not say that you are a great teacher but if the tools are at hand why not use them just like the Kreg pocket holes screws way, what you can't see you can't see..like many wood joints...they hold just as well and sometimes better.

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harrysin said:


> Perhaps I just like to put square pegs in square holes Bob! Perhaps Marlene is right when she accuses me of being pedantic.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> " pedantic "
> 
> ...


Perhaps this shot of an award that was presented to me some years ago says it all my friend.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Very nice, but who is going to see it other than the wall  drill bit easy .all done with just one drill bit..no tape or clamps needed ..
> 
> ======


Bob, Dont think we down under are ganging up on you, but I sorta go along with Harry on this. I have about 15 clocks more to make and it does look professional having the movement exactly in the routed square using the jig.

Also, its good practice to use the router freehand. If you wanted a bowl, would you purchase a forstner bit that size?...say...120 mm?

Anyhow, back to the clocks.........Regards......AL


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## maldak (Sep 20, 2006)

I do like having the square cutout as I am making these for military service awards and they just look much nicer - even though they are on the back. I did some on my CNC by taking measurements - and it looked great, just took too much time. For lesser clocks I think the Forstner bit will work well - but when it comes to a guy that's putting this in his house for 30 years service - I like to put the extra time into it and really make it look very finished. I appreciate all the information and ideas. - Thanks - Tom


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Of course we aren't ganging up on Bob, I fully understand his point of view, he's got a suitable size Forstner bit which takes perhaps 15 seconds to drill the hole compared to our method where the template takes about 15 minutes to make followed by maybe ten minutes to rout in several stages. BUT, a square clock in a square hole gives a sense of satisfaction, PLUS, this is a ROUTING forum!
I'm certainly not averse to using easy methods where the finished project is as sturdy as using the more conventional method so long as it LOOKS right.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Thanks, " PLUS, this is a ROUTING forum! " I forgot that with all the bowl tuning as of late.

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## Abhishek123 (Jul 19, 2011)

*hi*

it nice


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Thanks, " PLUS, this is a ROUTING forum! " I forgot that with all the bowl tuning as of late.
> 
> =======


In spite of your light hearted response,
what I meant by that Bob was that when I post a photo-shoot, where possible I use the router because most new members join because they are particularly interested in routing. For turned projects I use the "turning" section where members no doubt expect to see lathe work. I'm afraid that there are more turning projects yet to come, now that I'm back into it I want to gain more experience then I'll get back into several different boxes and perhaps a variety of clocks.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

hahahahahahaha
I guess I should setup my white Jet lathe so I can play along with you..,it's been in the back room for a long time I guess...some day I guess 

My lumber comes round like the tree and than I cut it up sq.and then I put it on the lathe and make it round again..  LOL so I can make a bowl to hold the peanuts in,that came off the tree,,, keeps them off the floor I guess 
Or maybe I can use my router and a template and make a bowl for same type of job 

I do like clean peanuts and candy .. LOL


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harrysin said:


> In spite of your light hearted response,
> what I meant by that Bob was that when I post a photo-shoot, where possible I use the router because most new members join because they are particularly interested in routing. For turned projects I use the "turning" section where members no doubt expect to see lathe work. I'm afraid that there are more turning projects yet to come, now that I'm back into it I want to gain more experience then I'll get back into several different boxes and perhaps a variety of clocks.


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## HobbsiePT (Sep 16, 2017)

Hi - hoping you guys can help me. Very new to this routing lark and probably doing something basic wrongly. I am making clocks and need to rout out the clock mechanism shape (mine is square with a small triangle on top for in built hanger). I had difficulties doing it by freehand so came up with teh idea of makinga metal mould. Bingo thought i had it solved however teh router bit cuts the metal mould!!!!! I see you guys using a wooden version successfuly so am intrigued as to how you have do it without routing teh mould as well?
Iain


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

As shown early in this thread I make a template out of either chipboard or MDF consisting of four pieces glued together leaving a square "cutout" in the centre. The way to calculate the size of the "cutout" is: choose a bit and template guide then: template guide dia. minus bit dia. plus size of the clock equals the opening size in the template. The triangle hanger cutout is probably best done with a sharp chisel to save cutting it out of the template.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

HobbsiePT said:


> Hi - hoping you guys can help me. Very new to this routing lark and probably doing something basic wrongly. I am making clocks and need to rout out the clock mechanism shape (mine is square with a small triangle on top for in built hanger). I had difficulties doing it by freehand so came up with teh idea of makinga metal mould. Bingo thought i had it solved however teh router bit cuts the metal mould!!!!! I see you guys using a wooden version successfuly so am* intrigued as to how you have do it without routing teh mould as well?*
> Iain



1.. you could bore a hole w/ a fostner bit large enough to accept your movement and skip the square...
bore the hole 1st and use it's center indent for the movement's shank hole... 

2... if you still want the square hole bore a fostner hole in your clock stock that fits inside the square template.. use it's shoulders to place your jig and use the center indent for the movement's shank hole.....

3... take a piece of ply or hardboard and plunge cut a square hole in it using your TS...
mark out the square on your scrap..
bore a hole centered in/on one edge large enough to accept the hanger/triangle.. 
figure out where the blade is going to come up through the scrap and to which side of the line you want the blade on..
set the fence accordingly..
lower the blade completely... if it won't lower below the TS's table install a smaller dia blade...
set the scrap over the blade and clamp the scrap down...
start the saw and then raise the blade slowly into the scrap till you have the length of cut needed.....
lower the blade...turn off saw...
unclamp the piece...
reset it for the next cut... do this sequence three more times...
if you place the scrap in the correct position there will be no need to move the piece to complete the cut... 
if you over cut the length a bit.. no worries.. it won't effect/affect anything..
if you need to move the piece to complete a cut... do it w/ the saw off and the blade lowered..
*REMEMBER* always have the piece clamped to the saw table before you start the cut...

_*so am intrigued as to how you have do it without routing teh mould as well?*_

you need to drill a starter hole way bigger than your bit...


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