# Shooting board and Scotch 233+ tape... dreamy!



## anotherBob (Oct 28, 2009)

What a hoot this has been...

So, I have ~a dozen or so small boxes to finish before Christmas, and a chop saw which cuts close... but no cigar on a perfect 90°. Ok, how about using a hand plane to true it up after a quick-in-the-neighborhood chop saw cut?

...research...:

Making a Luthier's Shooting Board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=npd0wnpjKa8

Using a Luthier's Shooting Board
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XycqnPGcbvM

OK, now getting a perfect 90° is very easy, very quick, very accurate! SWEET!!!

So, now you have to glue up those nice little boards, and not take up the whole bench while you're at it. And what about those nice bookmatched boards that you want to line up just so... when you're gluing them...

...research...:

Gluing Top Or Back Plates The Tape Method
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwjsIp44z3k

now this looks promising... what did that fella say?... what was that green tape that he used that stretches, so it'll pull the boards together while the glue is drying... watch it again... Grainger has it here:

Scotch 233+ tape
Search Scotch 233+ - Grainger Industrial Supply


hope this helps someone who might be looking to do something similar... this really is easy/fun. Wait, did I just mention gluing and fun in the same sentence/post... :laugh:

I'll try and post a pic when the glue dries...


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Great post Bob! I added it to my subscribed threads for future reference.

Much thanks for sharing it.


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## anotherBob (Oct 28, 2009)

Thanks Bob , always something new in woodworking... even if it's just new to me.

well, it worked great... just a little glue to sand off, then it'll be good:










Here's a few pics of my smaller shooting board:























































One thing I would really recommend if folks haven't already... give your plane a good tuneup. I can find the links if anyone needs them, but basically, lap and polish the sole and frog and sharpen the iron to a mirror finish, with the flat side of the iron lapped and polished a couple inches back from the edge. If you can, get a really good/thick/hard iron from Lie-Nielsen or a Hock iron. Woodcraft had a Lie-Nielsen replacement blade for one of their planes (it's .125 thick), also got a Hock chip breaker (it's what they had in stock at the time) and it just barely fit my Bailey #5 jack plane that I inherited from my grandpa. Here's a pic, hopefully you can see the difference...:










I also filed a ~15° bevel on the front side of the mouth for better chip clearance, but did not file/open the mouth any. Grandpa's old jack plane, all tuned up with a thick/scary-sharp blade... has literally made my mouth drop when using it. I slices through very hard purpleheart end grain on the shooting board like it's a stalk of celery... I think he would have been pleased...


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Nice Job Bob and thanks again for sharing the photos. I love handtools and have the LV/Veritas line in my shop. Sometimes a good and properly tuned handtool will get you there when nothing else will. It is always nice to run up on others who appreciate the non electric side of woodworking.


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## anotherBob (Oct 28, 2009)

Capital D DROOL!... ack... tool envy... 

Nice collection Bob, very nice.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I agree that's a great plane line up Bob, I have 5 from your front row.

I've heard of shoot boards before, never used one. The whole premise relies on the iron being perfectly parallel with plane bed. The one thing I've never been able to verify with my own tools, all being done by eye. 

Is there a way to guaranty parallel?


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## anotherBob (Oct 28, 2009)

Ghidrah said:


> I've heard of shoot boards before, never used one. The whole premise relies on the iron being perfectly parallel with plane bed. The one thing I've never been able to verify with my own tools, all being done by eye.
> 
> Is there a way to guaranty parallel?


Hi Ghidrah, That was me too till very recently... heard of a shooting board, never used one. You are gonna have to trust me when I tell you that this is one of those things that are too much easier to overthink... when you do your plane tuneup, or if like you said... you already have a nicer plane, that is more than likely in very good condition (the sides are at a perfect 90° and smooth), all you have to do is make sure that the iron is parallel to the sole. I was concerned about this too before trying it out... not anymore. 

Here are a few more links that I found very helpfull:

Setting Up and Using a Shooting Board
Setting Up and Using a Shooting Board

Advances in a Ramped Shooting Board
I was asked to build a ramped shooting board for a forum member, so I built two to choose from

Shooting for Perfection
Shooting for Perfection

Derek, the author of that site, has lots more interesting stuff there:

Shop Made Tools

After following his advice on making/setting up my first shooting board, I sent him an email of thanks. Even though he must be a very busy guy, he wrote back... ya, I was impressed! Cool stuff!

Future dreamlist material:

Iron Miter Plane
Lie-Nielsen Toolworks USA | Iron Miter Plane

10-238SBP Shooting Board Plane - download/check out the video on the left hand side:
Blank

you can even get the plane in kit form... ...dreaming on...


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

Ghidrah said:


> I agree that's a great plane line up Bob, I have 5 from your front row.
> 
> I've heard of shoot boards before, never used one. The whole premise relies on the iron being perfectly parallel with plane bed. The one thing I've never been able to verify with my own tools, all being done by eye.
> 
> Is there a way to guaranty parallel?


The iron doesn't need to be parallel to the plane bed, only perpendicular to the shooting board reference edge... That said, it is generally easier to SET UP a shooting board assuming the blade is parallel to the plane sole. As far as guaranteeing the parallelism, the Stanley style lateral adjuster isn't great at these sorts of things. Norris adjusters are a bit more precise in this respect. It is relatively easy to eyeball (assuming you have good vision or at least well corrected vision but there are other ways) things to 1/64" or better and then use a few test swipes to confirm. 

You can always flip alternate boards top for bottom so that any slant in the setup gets canceled when edges are mated. This also works for miter shooting boards if you have them set up with complementary angles.

The ramped board like anotherBob shows work very slick. I've made a larger flat board and made a small ramp for it to do small pieces and endgrain pieces. Now that I've experimented some I'll probably go back and remake the board in a couple different sizes as ramped boards. My original board is really too big for most things I've needed.

I think some of the above links show "donkey's ears" and other variations on miter shooting boards that also work pretty dang slick.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Now I find some good info. Mine is vey similar. Mice tool, and what a difference. I like your C-plane. I have fettled up all my planes and improved blades. Some are Quangsheng, most are Smootcut with QS chipbreakers and I have 1 Rob Cosman combo. The extra thickness of the blade and chipbreaker do make a difference.


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