# Using whiteside 6046 window sill bit



## Silver7 (Dec 29, 2014)

Any advise using this bit would be appreciated. Tried using in homemade table with multiple passes and with a handheld. Low rpm 10,000. A lot of skipping and jumping 
This was on red oak. Was going to order a top mounted bearing with locking collar.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

I can't help Kevin but I'm sure someone will be along to give you some advice.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Silver7 said:


> Any advise using this bit would be appreciated. Tried using in homemade table with multiple passes and with a handheld. Low rpm 10,000. A lot of skipping and jumping
> This was on red oak. Was going to order a top mounted bearing with locking collar.


skipping and jumping....
sounds like you are trying to climb cut....
feed the stock into the bit...
inverted routers as in a router table it right to left feed...
and don't ever get the stock between the bit and fence...

free hand routing picture shamelessly stolen from another member...


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Agree with Stick, sounds like you are feeding in the wrong direction.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Did you set up featherboards?


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## MorrisonCharles (Feb 13, 2009)

He said he was using it in a table.


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## Silver7 (Dec 29, 2014)

possibly I was a bit flustered, giving it another go tomorow


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

There really shouldn't be a problem using that bit but it is a little tricky to get a fence set up perfectly for it. The way I find that works best is to use a round dowel that is smaller or equal to the smallest radius of the curve. I turn the bit so that it is 90* to the fence and hold the dowel in the curve and advance the fence until it just touches the rod on both sides of the fence. With bits like this I would prefer the fence to be a little too far back (I'm talking 1/1000ths here) than that much too far ahead of the bit. Sanding the tiny flat off is easy. Trying to hide a dig at the end is harder.

None of that accounts for the jumping. As pointed out you most likely were going the wrong way. Right to left on a table and I only recommend doing this job on a table. You can try using an edge guide but you usually wind up buggering the first couple of inches and the last couple of inches when one side of the guide isn't touching the wood.


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## Silver7 (Dec 29, 2014)

I figured it out I was taking to much material at one time. But where it got difficult again was while using this as a template bit. I got tear out coming back into the grain on both tops I was making. I almost went home for the day!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Silver7 said:


> I figured it out I was taking to much material at one time. But where it got difficult again was while using this as a template bit. I got tear out coming back into the grain on both tops I was making. I almost went home for the day!


was the tear out predominately on the end grain???


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Silver7 said:


> I figured it out I was taking to much material at one time. But where it got difficult again was while using this as a template bit. I got tear out coming back into the grain on both tops I was making. I almost went home for the day!


forgot the attachment....


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## Silver7 (Dec 29, 2014)

Thanks for the link. stick. Yes it was. I had made a complete template for the tops. Using a 1&1/2 top bearing and lock collar. The tear out happened when turning into the 3/4" returns.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Silver7 said:


> Thanks for the link. stick. Yes it was. I had made a complete template for the tops. Using a 1&1/2 top bearing and lock collar. The tear out happened when turning into the 3/4" returns.


router the end grain 1st then route into the long grain...


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