# How to setup a Finger Joint Assembly Router Bit



## Bychen (Dec 28, 2008)

Hi all experts.

I'm struggling with a simple setup routine for my Finger Joint Assembly Router Bit (copied this from the web, don't know the correct name in English).

I've made a list with setup values(router bit height from table) depending on the thickness of my boards. But it seems like I'm doing it wrong. Despite my (in my opinion) good calculations I'm getting some difference between the two boards when mounting. I've read that setup should be at centerline on both bit and workpiece, but that's VERY difficult to measure.

I'm using it for both end to end and edge to edge. It's very tedious to setup with the trial & error method.

// Anders


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hi Anders;
What are you building? Are you trying to put end to end & edge to edge together at same time? Try using a glue joint bit for edge to edge or even biscuts. 

Here's another set of instructions for the finger joint. 
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics2/TM34fingjnt0911.pdf


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Anders

Sounds like you are takling about a box joint, some times called a Finger Joint, a jig is needed to get them right every time...
Many sale the jigs but the best one I have found is the OakPark one...it can be used in many ways not only for the box joint.

see below

Spacer Fence - Oak-Park.com

Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue

You don't need all of them but you will glad you have all 3 of them.
Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue

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Bychen said:


> Hi all experts.
> 
> I'm struggling with a simple setup routine for my Finger Joint Assembly Router Bit (copied this from the web, don't know the correct name in English).
> 
> ...


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## Bychen (Dec 28, 2008)

jlord said:


> Hi Anders;
> What are you building? Are you trying to put end to end & edge to edge together at same time? Try using a glue joint bit for edge to edge or even biscuts.


Thank you for your quick response.

My question was more of a general kind, I sometimes use finger joint bit instead of biscuit's when I glue edge to edge (like doors or sides). I think it looks nice. I'm also using finger joint bit end to end (strength).

My real question is..
I wonder if anyone have found out a simple method for set up.
The "shoulders" must be equal height and this means that the bits centerline and workpiece centerline must match, this is difficult to set up. I would rather have a height measure from router table to one of the teethes on the bit depending on workpiece thickness. 
The attatched PDF describes the set up, but it doesn't contain any tips for doing it the easy way.
Maybe there is no easy way. :blink: 

//Anders


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I don't think he is talking about box joints.
I think he is actually talking about finger joints as per this link....
Finger Joint Assembly Router Bit - Toolstoday.com - Industrial Quality Carbide Tipped Router Bits
I can't help with the set up though, except that it seems you should only be using the router table and not a hand held router.
Looking at the picture I can only assume that you should align the top of the cutter with the top of the wood. Looks like you would also have to ensure that the wood is the same thickness as the cutter.
Not sure as I've never done it.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I guess i was too slow typing.
So it is in fact a finger joint cutter.
Looking at the pdf you posted, it doesn't seem like there is an easy way.
Do you have 'micro adjust' on your router ? That would make it easier.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Use the same video to set up the finger joint bit 
for butt loints

MLCS Finger Joint, Box Joint, Window Sill Carbide Tipped Router Bits

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-PC-1-2-Shank-...ViewItemQQptZRouters_Bits?hash=item1e599492f9

http://cgi.ebay.com/2pc-1-2-SH-Adju...ViewItemQQptZRouters_Bits?hash=item1e59a3965a


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## Bychen (Dec 28, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Anders
> 
> Sounds like you are takling about a box joint, some times called a Finger Joint, a jig is needed to get them right every time...
> Many sale the jigs but the best one I have found is the OakPark one...it can be used in many ways not only for the box joint.


Hi, 

Box joint wasn't what I meant, but this jig looks really nice, I have to check availability in Sweden. I have seen some videos showing some real nice pieces made with these jigs and easy methods, requiring very little set up. 

Their router tables looks wonderful, I haven't found any reseller in Sweden:sad:.

//Anders


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## Bychen (Dec 28, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Use the same video to set up the finger joint bit


Great video, a sled is a good idea, I'll make one this weekend.


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## Bychen (Dec 28, 2008)

gav said:


> I guess i was too slow typing.
> So it is in fact a finger joint cutter.
> Looking at the pdf you posted, it doesn't seem like there is an easy way.
> Do you have 'micro adjust' on your router ? That would make it easier.


HI, Maybe I was to slow reading:laugh:

Yes, I have the possibility to adjust my router. The easy way may be 6 fixed workpiece dimensions (13, 19, 22, 25, 32 and 45 mm) and make set up templates for each thickness.

//Anders


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Seems close to setting up a glue joint bit as when done routing you flip one part over to fit together. Your instructions to me show that the height of the bottom cutting edge to the table should be the same as the thickness of the outer edge of the Abutting-Edge cutter. The Abutting-Edge cutter would then be rearranged in the order so that the top edge in even with the top edge of your material. That would be centering cutter with material. You route one side face up & one side face down so when you flip one side over to join, your finish side will end up on same face. 

You can use a deck of playing cards or equivelant to micro adjust your setting for a flush fit.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Bychen said:


> Thank you for your quick response.
> 
> My question was more of a general kind, I sometimes use finger joint bit instead of biscuit's when I glue edge to edge (like doors or sides). I think it looks nice. I'm also using finger joint bit end to end (strength).
> 
> ...


The easiest way is, scrap pieces of different thicknesses. These will become "setup" blocks for you. You'll more than likely go through many scrap pieces but, in the long run it's worth it. Unfortunately, you'll still need to do this even with the aid of any instructional video. They'll get you close but, you'll find that you will still have the need for "fine tuning" your setup(s). Thus, the use of setup blocks.


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## Bychen (Dec 28, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> The easiest way is, scrap pieces of different thicknesses. These will become "setup" blocks for you. You'll more than likely go through many scrap pieces but, in the long run it's worth it. Unfortunately, you'll still need to do this even with the aid of any instructional video. They'll get you close but, you'll find that you will still have the need for "fine tuning" your setup(s). Thus, the use of setup blocks.


 I've reached the same conclusion, setup blocks is the easiest way, I'm going to spend a couple of hours this weekend making them, I think that oak will be durable enough for this. I was a bit tempted to use nylon, but it seems hard to get hold of in my neighborhood.

Thank you all ...


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## laxknut (Oct 17, 2008)

Hej Anders,
You can try Toolbox, located in Åtvidaberg, they are the distributor for Leigh, Trend and many other router related jointery tooling.

Toolbox Produkter


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

For joints (lock miter, rabbet for shiplap, glue line, finger joint, etc.) where one setup cuts both halves of the joint:

Note that your stock _must_ have uniform thickness because the two cuts don't reference off the same face.

Also not that bit setup errors are doubled, so you need to get very close (thousandths of an inch).

Approximate where the center is and just try to get close. Run one piece through face up and mark it "A". Run one through face down and mark it "B".

Mate them and measure with your dial caliper (I like a slightly bigger set where the jaws usually reach correspondingly farther) across the high parts and divide the measurement by 2. This is how far off your height setting is. If "A" is high the bit is low so raise it by that amount. If "B" is high the bit is high so lower it.

If you're setting based on measured bit height you'll get a perfect joint after two sets of pieces. Maybe another try or two if you have to hassle with backlash in the router height adjustment mechanism and read its scale.

Keeping a piece of scrap around of each thickness will help you get closer the next time.


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