# Threaded Bushes



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi

I'm making up a jig using threaded bushes. These are the type with an internal machine thread and a coarse external thread for going into the wood.
(Not the T-nut type with the spikes) They have an interrupted screwdriver slot in one end.

Can anyone tell me the correct way to fit them? They are very short and tend to cant over once the first part of the external thread bites. I've drilled a hole approximating to the core diameter. However carefully I start them, I cannot get them to go in straight. There is probably a very easy answer but I've not worked it out yet ! I did try with one, screwing a bolt into the back with a sprung sleeve on, to try to hold it straight, with limited success, but even that is impossible for blind holes where you can't get at the back.

Cheers

Peter


----------



## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Two ways to drive them in straight. What kind of "head" does your insert have? The ones I have have a hex head in it, but I've seen some with a notch for a flathead screwdriver. 

If you have a drill press and the insert is near the edge where you could drill it (not going to drill it though) you can do the following. Cut off a screw with the same thread pitch you are using (1/4-20 for example), then put that all-thread you just made into the drill press. Now put two nuts on it and screw a thread insert on the end. Now put a nut on it and then lock it with the 2nd nut. (the 2nd nut works as a jam-nut)Now HAND FEED the insert into the wood, then reverse and put on another thread insert and continue.

Another way to install them if this won't work for you is to cut a notch on the end of some scrap wood and drill a hole above the notch. Either clamp the jig down or hold it down firmly. Now you can either use an allen wrench or make the thread tool (all thread plus 2 nuts) and screw it in. Oh yeah, either put a nut on top with a jam-nut and drive it in or use a drill-driver with the clutch set so it won't strip.

See pic in case that's confusing.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Having used heaps of these threaded bushes, some of my jigs have 32, it surprises me that you're having a problem. I must admit that all those that I have used are for an Alan key. If you do have a drill press it would only be necessary to hacksaw the end off an Alan key, leaving just the long part, pop one end in the chuck, the other end in the bush and hand turn to get started then take over with a standard key. I realise that you will have to return the slotted ones you have Peter for replacement.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Here's a little jig you make that will put them strait and true and easy with a tool you have in your shop..

just a note ,they do make a tool just for that job but a bolt with 2 nuts will do just find, just use some 2" x 4" ( 4" x 4" works best ) scrap for the jig...the bolt in the jig block keeps the insert running true..plus you have a small pocket to keep the insert back until you are ready to screw it in place.

Just put the jig block in place on top of the stock then use a driver ( ratchet wrench or battery drill ) and screw it in..  very quick,if you don't have a hex driver for battery drill just cut off a socket ext. that you can pop on socket to fit the hex bolt insert tool ...

==========



istracpsboss said:


> Hi
> 
> I'm making up a jig using threaded bushes. These are the type with an internal machine thread and a coarse external thread for going into the wood.
> (Not the T-nut type with the spikes) They have an interrupted screwdriver slot in one end.
> ...


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

now that is very simple and smart. why cant i think of ideas like that. well at least we all know who can lol, Mr. Jigs! great idea!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi levon


Thanks ,,,,,I think it comes from being so lazy  and cheap..and using what I have on hand,,,:jester:

When I got the inserts and the insert tool and it strip the slot out on the brass inserts and I could not get them in strait, I said, got to be better way ....


========





levon said:


> now that is very simple and smart. why cant i think of ideas like that. well at least we all know who can lol, Mr. Jigs! great idea!


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

BJ,

I think you have enough hardware in your shop to open a hardware store :yes4::yes4::sold:


----------



## GBM (Dec 18, 2007)

That hex driver shown with the spanner blades and center pilot pin mounted in a drill press would be about as foolproof as it can get...on slow speed of course....LOL


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi GBM

It would be if it would not strip/pop out the slot and raise the edge of the brass insert and put on that nasty sharp edge that needs to filed down.... 
It takes a lot of power to screw them down in place and should be dirlled over size in hardwood..and must be counter sunk drilled b/4 the insert is put in place, they do like to lift the stock up if you don't..

Most drill presses don't have the power to do it..by the way..

======








GBM said:


> That hex driver shown with the spanner blades and center pilot pin mounted in a drill press would be about as foolproof as it can get...on slow speed of course....LOL


----------



## GBM (Dec 18, 2007)

Ok.. perhaps they need to be drilled and then tapped before inserting ? Is a tap matching those threads available ? If not then perhaps one of those fittings could be cut to make it into a tap of the proper thread gauge.... ?
Also, there are torque multipliers / speed reducers which can be chucked into a 'puny' drillpress if needed... with the added benefit of having a reverse on them.. which I assume would be needed to speed things up...


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi GBM

You can use the tools below but the drill press will still have a hard time putting them in,,the tap would help but it's just one more job to do and ..the knife threads are made to be self taping on the insert. 


====



GBM said:


> Ok.. perhaps they need to be drilled and then tapped before inserting ? Is a tap matching those threads available ? If not then perhaps one of those fittings could be cut to make it into a tap of the proper thread gauge.... ?
> Also, there are torque multipliers / speed reducers which can be chucked into a 'puny' drillpress if needed... with the added benefit of having a reverse on them.. which I assume would be needed to speed things up...


----------



## GBM (Dec 18, 2007)

Heck, I don't care how many operations HE has to do... I am just trying to solve the physics problems.....LOLOL


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi guys

Thanks a lot for that. I'm glad I asked! I haven't seen Harry's hex heads here. Ours are all slotted ends and they soon b****r up when you try to do it. I should have thought of threaded rod and locknuts. It's a good engineering solution and much more positive. I was really surprised to find the thread had already run to two pages when I logged on today. Thanks a lot Bob for all the pics. The one thing I had worked out was the need for countersinking, to eliminate the tendency to raise the surrounding host material.

Thanks again! This forum is brilliant!

Cheers

Peter


----------



## GBM (Dec 18, 2007)

Bob, I like that last picture better..... just does not seem right to use the compression with the interior threads and the top of the insert to a FLAT nut bottom when those slots are there .... perhaps the edges of the drivers which go into those slots need to be ground from the outside to make sure they do not dig up any wood.... and the idea of chucking the driver into a tweaked 90 degree drill press appeals to me. 
Does that particular 3-1 driver have a reverse built in ? My drill press does not reverse.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi GBM

The hex nuts and hex head bolt works so much better than the fac.driver, the fac.one likes to dig up the wood on the edges,,,and makes it nasty to clean up..the nuts I use are like jam nut set up and the one on the bottom and been ground down to a real angle so it will not rip up the stock when it sets the insert in place...

The 3-1 driver has no reverse built in ,but I have rewired the motor on the old Jet drill press with a forward and reverse switch that I use for taping when needed . 

I reworked the drill press many years ago to down to 25 rpm.( spindel speed ) with the belt setup..by using 3 step pulleys under the head cover .

========


GBM said:


> Bob, I like that last picture better..... just does not seem right to use the compression with the interior threads and the top of the insert to a FLAT nut bottom when those slots are there .... perhaps the edges of the drivers which go into those slots need to be ground from the outside to make sure they do not dig up any wood.... and the idea of chucking the driver into a tweaked 90 degree drill press appeals to me.
> Does that particular 3-1 driver have a reverse built in ? My drill press does not reverse.


----------



## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

A company I know used used large quantities of these inserts. they had a threaded rod and locknut in their cordless drill.They had a veeblock about 4"long to keep the threadded rod straight and never had a problem.


----------



## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

This question has been answered already, but I found a shot that better explained the latter half of post #2.


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

it seems lots easier to understand BobJ's way.


----------



## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

levon said:


> it seems lots easier to understand BobJ's way.


To each his own, no biggie. I like this one better because it has a bigger opening which gives me a better view. I didn't put any of the springs in it like the PDF though.


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

just my humble opinion, the solid blocks with no cutouts seems more foolproof. and so simple and i know it works good.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi GBM
> 
> It would be if it would not strip/pop out the slot and raise the edge of the brass insert and put on that nasty sharp edge that needs to filed down....
> It takes a lot of power to screw them down in place and should be dirlled over size in hardwood..and must be counter sunk drilled b/4 the insert is put in place, they do like to lift the stock up if you don't..
> ...


That's why I added a Roots 6V-71 Blower (supercharger) on my Chevy V8-powered drill press. And to think, some people think its to blow away dust! Silly people! Arh-arh-arh!!!


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Having used heaps of these threaded bushes, some of my jigs have 32, it surprises me that you're having a problem. I must admit that all those that I have used are for an Alan key. If you do have a drill press it would only be necessary to hacksaw the end off an Alan key, leaving just the long part, pop one end in the chuck, the other end in the bush and hand turn to get started then take over with a standard key. I realise that you will have to return the slotted ones you have Peter for replacement.


Hi Harry

I got some more locally and these had the hex heads. These were cast in some sort of ally, where the originals were cut steel with an interrupted slot. I was amazed at how much easier the hex ones were to drive in and I can understand your comment.

Cheers

Peter


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'm pleased about that Peter, it really does make you wonder why slots are still used for anything where a hex will fit. The ones that I use are made from a Zinc type alloy. I wonder if the hex ones have filtered through to the USA yet!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Harry, they are filtering here.


----------



## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

westend said:


> Harry, they are filtering here.


I have these and they work great in plywood and mdf: Threaded insert LINK


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Lance, the reason that I added that comment was because no one else said they had used the hex headed ones so I assumed that they may have been another great Australian invention!!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

They are a very old type in the states,,,once man started to make is own wood,,,most just don't hold well,they like to pull out the norm  many Mfg.like to use them in cheap furniture mfg. but most are using the new type with flange on them now...PB,MDF,ETC.they like to give away with any pulling on the board..many call them sex bolts (male and female fasteners) with a end cap to hide the Allen hex head.. the norm.

I have some in the shop but they are not cheap..but hold well 

===========
uote=harrysin;122345]Lance, the reason that I added that comment was because no one else said they had used the hex headed ones so I assumed that they may have been another great Australian invention!![/quote]


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bummer Bj, there was I thinking it was another great invention from Australia. I agree that in poor quality MDF they can move under stress so I always use glue which also acts as a lubricant during insertion.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry


" another great invention from Australia "

hahahahahahahahahaha LOL LOL many great ( strange ) things came/come out Australia, like a over size mouse ,like a animal that can lay a eggs and can kill you with leg (platypus), but not that... 


========



harrysin said:


> Bummer Bj, there was I thinking it was another great invention from Australia. I agree that in poor quality MDF they can move under stress so I always use glue which also acts as a lubricant during insertion.


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Quote from McFeely's website:

Install with a metric sized hex wrench, or the appropriately sized driver to install. Made in USA

Hmmm....... GDR!


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

There has to be a misprint there Peter, US members would have me believe that the word METRIC isn't in the US vocabulary!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

It's in mind " vocabulary " I write it all the time on the roll of TP ,, LOL hahahahahaha 

======



harrysin said:


> There has to be a misprint there Peter, US members would have me believe that the word METRIC isn't in the US vocabulary!


----------

