# What is the right router size for me?



## uOpt (Dec 18, 2008)

Hi, folks.

New guy here. I need to pick the right size router for my projects.

I wanted to straighten out some of the rough woodwork that I gave my guitars so far. Apart from making pickup and tremolo routes in electric guitars I also need to make a 5x1 foot shop sign. But that's a one-time job, I wouldn't mind if it takes long.

So I went and got a Dremel 400, the Dremel router base that Stewmac is selling and their ball-bearing template bits. You all know how this turned out: the Dremel is underpowered for this and in fact I can't even mount the large bits and the Dremel bits are tiny.

What is the right size router for me? It seems that people use the Bosch 1613 for this most of the time. 2 HP sounds like a whole lot. I am wondering whether there is some router more in between that I can use? I don't want to end up with a router that's too hard to control. Hacking into the wrong place in a guitar isn't fun.

I didn't use the Dremel or the Stewmac base yet and wonder whether I should return them? Later I'll want to do some detail work like inlays and guitar body bindings. Can I use the heavier router for that or should I keep the Dremel?

Or should I just get some larger bits with 1/8" shaft for the Dremel and take my time? Is that an option or will that lead to a broken Dremel and frustration?

Thanks!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi uOpt

You may want to check out the Bosch Colt, it's light but has a lot of power  do get the kit, it has many of the neat add on items that come in very handy ..
It's the only one that comes with a true off set base and a 0 to 45 deg. base..
The offset base run the bit on a drive belt, neat tool 

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR20EVS...ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1229616942&sr=1-2

==





uOpt said:


> Hi, folks.
> 
> New guy here. I need to pick the right size router for my projects.
> 
> ...


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## uOpt (Dec 18, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi uOpt
> 
> You may want to check out the Bosch Colt, it's light but has a lot of power  do get the kit, it has many of the neat add on items that come in very handy ..
> It's the only one that comes with a true off set base and a 0 to 45 deg. base..
> The offset base run the bit on a drive belt, neat tool


That one looks nice. So this is about half the size and weight of the 1613?

How good would that be to do inlay work? Doable? Still need to decide whether I want to return the Dremel.

ETA: and isn't 15,000 minimum rpm a bit much?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI uOpt

I would say 1/2 the weight,,, maybe a bit less 
Inlay work yes, but you will need to pickup a new sub base plate to hold the brass guides...

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR010-S...ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1229618410&sr=1-4

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41779&cat=1,43000,51208
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=99552

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uOpt said:


> That one looks nice. So this is about half the size and weight of the 1613?
> 
> How good would that be to do inlay work? Doable? Still need to decide whether I want to return the Dremel.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

You should have a plunge base for inlay work also.

I like this new edition Trend T-4 for inlay which is much nicer than the older version.

 T-4 Router

Some people have been giving it 2 or 3 stars I give it 4 or 5. I think the naysayers are basing their conclusions on the older model. 6.6 amps is quite a punch for such a little router.

You can get it for 99.99 sometimes free shipping too on a few sites. Oops,
looks like they sold out for the 99.99 and free ship but will have them back in stock in a week.

Woodworker Supply T4 router

In stock for 99.99 and 13.00 shipping eBay has some:

In stock


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nick

I will need to disagree with you on that one...no plunge router needed for inlay jobs, because you are only going down a 1/8" deep or less the norm..

But you can put the Bosch Colt in a PC plunge base if needed..

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/7607-colt-plunge-base.html
====



nickao65 said:


> You should have a plunge base for inlay work also.
> 
> I like this new edition Trend T-4 for inlay which is much nicer than the older version.
> 
> ...


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Well we will agree to disagree on that. 

For precise work tipping in the router is risky, it has ruined more than one of my projects. And as you know none of my inlays are only an 1/8" deep. That would not hold up well in a floor application. For basketball courts I have to inlay a minimum of a 1/2" if the design is going to hold up through 100 years of abuse. 

The plunge adds so much precision. I am currently working on a boat inlay and the lines are 1/16" wide by 1/4" deep and if I tip in, even at an 1/8" deep and the router moves even a 1/32" to one side of the line I am in trouble. Its mostly free hand work as most of the lines are not stick straight.

So it depends on the work, but I use plunge routers as often as I can.

For a beginner tipping in a router is a tricky, nerve racking thing. I do use my Foredom router and tip it in, but I sure wish I could plunge it in.

Here is the line drawing I am working off for the table top. The boat is an exact replica I drew from a photograph of the boat it is going in.The corners of the table will have a radius to be determined buy the client.

The second picture is of a Welcome mat floor inlay for a home in Hawaii that I am currently working on. Again I would be awfully nervous without a plunge base on my router doing it.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the forums uOpt.


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## uOpt (Dec 18, 2008)

Thanks, guys.

Unless somebody with objections come along before tomorrow morning I'll get the Colt package linked to above and return the Dremel items. 

Since nobody seems to think the Dremel is the best option for inlays it seems to be a pointless investment right now. Also, the Stewmac router base isn't a plunge base either.

I'll watch out for the inlay work, but I don't plan inlay work in the near future. When I start I'll do some tests on ruinable things first. Guitar inlays are usually within 1/8". Of course there's always Murphy's law saying the test will go better than the first project 

Thanks again.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

uOpt said:


> Thanks, guys.
> 
> Unless somebody with objections come along before tomorrow morning I'll get the Colt package linked to above and return the Dremel items.
> 
> ...


The colt is a sweet little router. 

Guitar inlay is a different animal completely. For guitar inlays I do use a dremel or a Foredom with the Stewmac mac attachment. For that type of inlay the Stewmac is unbeatable. But not with a dremel, the custom Foredom hand piece is the way to go, but it will cost you.

I use that Stew/Mac with the custom Foredoom hand piece everyday. I had to go with a much bigger Foredome unit then the SR(which is fine for guitars) for my application. The SR or Dremel is not going to do the trick for deeper intensive inlay work. But I have found nothing better for truly delicate intricate work than the Foredom Stew/Mac combo.


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## AlanZ (Aug 21, 2008)

Nick,

I'm signed up to take a week long course in April where we'll be building mandolins.

I'll be building an octave mandolin, under the watchful eye of an experienced luthier.

I picked up an almost new Foredom SR today with an FTC1 foot pedal and H.30 handpiece with an eye towards using it for future inlay and edge binding projects.

I looked at the Stewmac site and don't find any detailed information about their custom threaded handpiece that's used with their router base.

For example, I can't tell if it uses collets or a jacobs chuck.

Do you know which (if any) Foredom model it's based on?

Thanks


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## AlanZ (Aug 21, 2008)

Does anyone else have experience with the Stewmac/Foredom router setup?


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

AlanZ said:


> Nick,
> 
> I'm signed up to take a week long course in April where we'll be building mandolins.
> 
> ...


It uses collets and I believe you can get a Jacobs chuck adapter. I have the Jacobs chuck adapter but never used it yet. I am not sure which hand piece it is based on. 

I had to get a table top knob speed adjustment, the pedal even though I have their best one is not accurate enough and it is tough to keep a dead accurate speed when using the chisel hand piece. Plus I move around a lot.

I added a little light to mine.


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