# Anyone ever use a router on dymondwood.



## Dusty D (Nov 2, 2009)

Hello, I'm free hand routing templates out of dymondwood and I'm having terrible tear out. I'm using a new bit and have slowed the speed down but it's still happening. 
What particular techniques should I use when free hand routing?

I sand down to 1/8" of the edge, climb cut to 1/16", then make a final pass to clean up the edge. But it's hit and miss. 
Does anyone have any advise on how I could be more consistant?
Anyone ever work with dymondwood before?
Thanks in advance.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Welcome, Dusty..

I haven't worked with that product before, so I'll leave it to others answer. I have ideas, but would be guessing. We've got great experts here.


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## Dusty D (Nov 2, 2009)

I hope so Big Jim. It's getting pretty expensive ruining pieces. 
I just came back in from another frustrating session in the garage.
Pieces are flying off of the table so much I should put up a goal net to catch them. :jester:
I think I'll try to use a shear cut bit. Hopefully it will do a better job
by slicing rather than chopping. 
If that doesn't work I'll have to pony up the funds for a spiral cutter. :wacko:
I'm hoping I wont have to but it may be cheaper in the long run.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Dusty D said:


> I hope so Big Jim. It's getting pretty expensive ruining pieces.
> I just came back in from another frustrating session in the garage.
> Pieces are flying off of the table so much I should put up a goal net to catch them. :jester:
> I think I'll try to use a shear cut bit. Hopefully it will do a better job
> ...


Dusty,
I have no experience with that type of wood either, but I have found that buying/using cheap tools will end up costing you more than if you get the best you can afford to start with.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

curiousgeorge said:


> Dusty,
> +1 on quality bits especially if you're having problems with less.
> 
> I have no experience with that type of wood either, but I have found that buying/using cheap tools will end up costing you more than if you get the best you can afford to start with.


That's where i was going to head too, George.. I'd try a Whiteside spiral bit. Expensive but spiral sure will help and IMO, Whiteside makes the best bits. 

I was just hoping someone would come in with something simple... like rubbing banana peel on the bit or ???? :jester:


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## Dusty D (Nov 2, 2009)

Thanks for the lead on the Whiteside bit BigJim. 
They seem pretty affordable compared to the other spiral bits I've priced. 
I think they would work pretty well for making the templates. 
It's too bad they only have the bearing on the tip. 
They may only postpone the solution to the origional problem though because once the template is made I still need to shape another piece
of dymondwood off of the template.  

Can anyone chime in on their experience in the difference between a straight cut bit and a shear cut bit? 
I'm hoping I can reduce the bit grabbing by slicing rather than chopping.

A few more posts and I can post some pics of what I'm talking about.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

MLCS solid carbide router bits
Spiral Flush Trim Router Bit
MLCS solid carbide router bits

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Dusty D said:


> Thanks for the lead on the Whiteside bit BigJim.
> They seem pretty affordable compared to the other spiral bits I've priced.
> I think they would work pretty well for making the templates.
> It's too bad they only have the bearing on the tip.
> ...


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## Dusty D (Nov 2, 2009)

I ordered a Amana #47094 bit today.
(I'd add a link but I don't have enough posts yet.) 

I can use it for template and pattern cutting and hopefully the shear cut
will take care of the grabbing and tear out. :yes2:


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Dusty D said:


> Thanks for the lead on the Whiteside bit BigJim.
> They seem pretty affordable compared to the other spiral bits I've priced.
> I think they would work pretty well for making the templates.
> It's too bad they only have the bearing on the tip.
> ...


Dusty,

If you need the bearing for template work, would it be feasible to create an oversized template using a router guide bushing instead of a bearing and then using the same bushing to cut original-sized pieces in dymondwood?

Guides aren't always the solution but sometimes they greatly simplify the problem. When used in a plunge router, you can place the guide in place before lowering the bit. 

If on the other hand, you have a 1/2" long cutter with a 1/4" bearing above it and are trying to use a 1/2" thich template to cut 1/2" thick stock with a plunging cut, you're likely to nick the template or cut out away from the template. 

With bushings, you normally just use straight bits, reducing the collection of specialty bits.


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## Dusty D (Nov 2, 2009)

I tried to use a straight cut but the dymondwood is a really tough laminate. The straight cut bit just digs into it and sends it across the garage. 
I'm hoping the down shear cut will slice it rather than chop it. 
I'll find out friday or saturday when it gets here. 

In the meantime I'll just mess around with my mill. :yes2:


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Sounds like your moving your piece to fast in to the bit with the bit turning at to low a speed. Or one or the other is to fast or to slow.
Take off small amounts and feed slow when cutting composites. I used to get the same action on acrylic. I slowed down my feed rate, depth of cut, and bit speed and all went well.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Dusty, some woods are just plain difficult to work with as you have found out. My suggestion is to use a spiral bit at high speed and move your router as slowly as possible with out causing burning. This gives you a slicing action as opposed to a chipping action and should reduce tear out. Amana bits are very high quality, Whiteside is usually rated as the best available. Guide bushings are the best solution with templates. They allow for shallow or deep cuts with no bearing to get in the way. You do not have to worry about leaving a bearing trail on softer materials. (twin lines at the edges of the bearings)


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## Dusty D (Nov 2, 2009)

Thanks for the responses guys. 
I've been using an Amana shear cut bit and it's worked out pretty well. 
But, I'm still getting a little bit of tear out still. 
I think that I should switch to a spiral cut bit soon. 

Also, I'm using the bit table mounted.
I've made all of the templates I need so now I need a pattern cutting bit.
The Amana bit I have has bearings both at the top and bottom of the cutter.
So that is good. 
As to switching to a spiral cutter, all the ones I've seen only have a bearing on the top. I need one on the bottom for cutting the pattern. 
This may be a stupid question but, 
would it be possible/advisable to use a spiral cut bit and use the shank as a bearing?

Thanks.


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## Dusty D (Nov 2, 2009)

Still trying to get to 10 posts so I can post a pic.


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## Dusty D (Nov 2, 2009)

Here's what I'm talking about.


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## Professor59 (Oct 24, 2009)

Don't know if this will help I'm pretty new to the router stuff but I used to mill Micarta with a 4 flute end mill you might try getting one in the size you need from your local machine supply. Diamond wood is if I remember right stabilized Maple (dyed) then laminated under high pressure with phenolic resin, many of us knife maker types have used it for years, Pakkawood is another brand. It is tough stuff and should last a long time once you get it figured out. I'll try to do a couple experiments and get back in a day or two. There are a lot of guys that know the router better than myself here but I would think the end mill and a brass insert of the appropriate size would work. As to using the shank as a guide, try it on a scrap piece, I would think it would burn the Diamondwood. Hope that helped.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dusty

Give this one a try,it's made for that type of job.

*Compression Up/Down Spiral Router Bit* *#7425*

This 2 flute solid carbide bit is needed to get clean, chip-free and splinter-free cuts in composite sheet goods such as Melamine or 2-sided Formica/Laminates and veneered plywood. 
The Up-shear/Down-shear design of the bit cuts toward the center of the sheet from both sides at once, saving time and eliminating waste.

#7425
MLCS solid carbide router bits

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Dusty D said:


> Here's what I'm talking about.


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