# Can this be used to make a router table?



## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

I picked these up a couple of months ago and have not used them for anything. I am not sure what you call the material. Can it be used for a router table?

If not, how about a solid core door?


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## edh (May 13, 2010)

*Looks good to me.*

Hi
I would. Looks like nice ply, no gaps that can be seen at least in the pictures. Be sure to have a good plan to follow when you build.


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

edh said:


> Hi
> I would. Looks like nice ply, no gaps that can be seen at least in the pictures. Be sure to have a good plan to follow when you build.


I imagine I will bug yall to death till we come up with a good plan. I want a lift that I can operate from the top. It will be a couple of minutes before I can afford one though.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Put a straight edge on the ply, and move it around to see how flat it is. Conventional ply sometimes has minor irregularities in the surface, and can have internal voids.


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

If it proves to be not straight would a solid core hardwood door work? What can I use that might be inexpensive?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Michael

I know money is tight but this is one time you want to use some good stock, Baltic plywood or some MDF (Rockler for the Baltic plywood, precut to size the norm) , put that stuff back in the corner you will use it in time but not this time...trust me on this one 

Just a note ,,,HD/Lowers will cut the MDF to size for you so you don't need to buy a full 3/4" x 4 x 8 
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mjdtexan said:


> I picked these up a couple of months ago and have not used them for anything. I am not sure what you call the material. Can it be used for a router table?
> 
> If not, how about a solid core door?


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Michael
> 
> I know money is tight but this is one time you want to use some good stock, Baltic plywood or some MDF (Rockler for the Baltic plywood, precut to size the norm) , put that stuff back in the corner you will use it in time but not this time...trust me on this one
> 
> ...


No good for that huh? Well, I for sure want a good router table. I can hold out until I get the right stock. I've got that crazy old Craftman metal table. I cant stand that thing.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

" I cant stand that thing " I'm a big fan on the Craftsman router but the tables are junk, best use as a step stool if that..now I will tons of hate post, many have that metal /plastic junk in the shop 

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mjdtexan said:


> No good for that huh? Well, I for sure want a good router table. I can hold out until I get the right stock. I've got that crazy old Craftman metal table. I cant stand that thing.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I had a craftsman router table once. Used it long enough to build the one I have now.


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## routered (Jul 9, 2009)

*Recycling is a good thing*

It looks like what you have there is 3/4 " veneered ply. Some would say that you should get the top of the line Birch ply but in fact if you double this up( as you should anyway) this is perfectly fine to use unless of course the surface is not smooth. And way to go giving this another life!:yes2:.
Good Luck 
Ed


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Why take a chance?
MDF is cheap.


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## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

Looks like there might be enough there to use for the base of the router table.


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

I have not used those yet. I am still new to routing and just dont want to build a table that aint right. I wished yall lived closer. I would get one of yall to build me a proper router table and trade you some good Red Oak, or Black Walnut. I've been collecting. I even got ten 5/4 spalted pecan boards but those are for me. 

I've become an apprentice for a woodworker up at an old saw mill. He is not part of the sawmill, he rents space and builds furniture parts and flooring and molding for other contractors. Huge machinery. Bridgewood. Straight line saws, end tenders, HUGE double sided planer, Big molding machine, and a big shaper. I have not got to play with the shaper yet. I am learning my way around the molder. He has a smaller shaper he may sell me. I just bought an 8 inch jointer off of him.


Oh, just an aside, yall know how I payed for that jointer? Bagging shavings. He sells all of his shaving for $4 a bag. I get $1 to bag them. I am gonna buy that smaller shaper that way too.


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## Slomoe (Feb 14, 2011)

Just my 2 cent here. When you build your table, mount the top on something that is strong and absolutely straight. I prefer Aluminum – eliminates the warp and bowing problems. Mount it to the top first with the top upside down on something flat (like your table saw) – make it into a box like shape – then build the base off of it. You don’t want to stress the top by bolting it to the frame/case last. I built my router table from 1” AA Marine ply around 1986. It set in my garage for 23 years with a piece of ½’ B-C ply on top as protection – no paint, poly , Formica – nothing and you can’t get printer paper under a machined straight edge. Use recessed tee-nuts on the top for bolts through the aluminum /steel whatever you use on bottom. Csk screws will work loosen with the vibration an sink into the wood; therefore you lose your bolt tension for the top... 
Build your tooling perfect – flat, square, straight and to last – all your work in the future depends on it.


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

Slomoe said:


> Just my 2 cent here. When you build your table, mount the top on something that is strong and absolutely straight. I prefer Aluminum – eliminates the warp and bowing problems. Mount it to the top first with the top upside down on something flat (like your table saw) – make it into a box like shape – then build the base off of it. You don’t want to stress the top by bolting it to the frame/case last. I built my router table from 1” AA Marine ply around 1986. It set in my garage for 23 years with a piece of ½’ B-C ply on top as protection – no paint, poly , Formica – nothing and you can’t get printer paper under a machined straight edge. Use recessed tee-nuts on the top for bolts through the aluminum /steel whatever you use on bottom. Csk screws will work loosen with the vibration an sink into the wood; therefore you lose your bolt tension for the top...
> Build your tooling perfect – flat, square, straight and to last – all your work in the future depends on it.


Thank you Tim. I have decided to wait on building one. I am looking at the Incra setup.

I have good news. I am moving out of my small shop behind my house into the 50' x 40' metal building that I own next door. It is on the same property that I have a rent house on. I need to rent that house out by the way. Anyway, I had a bunch of janitorial supplies in the building and have sold the majority of it. My dumpster is full and will be full again on Tuesday as soon as they empty it. Here are some pictures of what I am working with

I do want to keep it open enough to park that tractor and the trailer with the generator on it in the building at night. At least until I can afford one of those metal car port thingies. I had been using a romax cord to supply 110 to the building. I have bought a GE 200 amp service entrance rated breaker box and will be calling the electric company on Monday to get me hooked up. I live in the county and will not have to deal with an inspector but intend on running a safe shop.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I am still new to routing and just dont want to build a table that aint right.


I wouldn't keep agonizing over getting the first table just right. Very few, if any, of the rest of us did. Put one together and try it and find out what you like about it and what you don't. All the time that are waiting to figure out just the right table is time you could be routing. If you don't use that plywood for a table, keep it for making jigs.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Michael...

that looks like a KBS warehouse.  50x40? dang, now that will be sweet! even if you do share it with some other equipment. Layout/planning will be everything.


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Hey Michael...
> 
> that looks like a KBS warehouse.  50x40? dang, now that will be sweet! even if you do share it with some other equipment. Layout/planning will be everything.


I am glad you brought that up. I have been back there today trying to lay this out in my mind. I just picked up an old Delta 3 horsepower 3 phase 13" x 6" planer. I got for $50 bucks too. I nor the owner knew if it worked. I took it to my mentors shop and it fired right up. I am trying to decide on the correct Rotary 3 phase converter to get and what my wallet will allow. 

Back on subject, how much space fore and aft of the planer you think I ought to allow? My goal is to produce dinning room tables in that shop and then sell them. My thoughts are twelve foot on either side should be enough? Does that sound right?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

That looks like an ideal setup to me, Michael, since you could generally park the equipment in the shop, but leave some of it outside overnight if you were "spread out" on a particular project.

I work from a two car garage but for my ideal shop, lacking an outbuilding, would be a 2-wide, 2-deep, 4-car garage for our two vehicles here in Alaska. While all my tools, including my cabinet saw, are on casters, I'd place my tools in the back two spaces. I'd allocate the 2 "car spaces" for saw, router table, jointer and planer infeed or outfeed areas and for working areas if building an entertainment center or other large project.

Can you see the green of envy from here?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Michael

It's going to be a NICE SHOP .
I would suggest you sale the planer off for about the same as you paid for it, and get one that is not short all the parts, and without all the rust..  that's going to be money pit I think..

But Dam man get some paint for the outside "Women Cave" 
Harry would love the color of your shop. 
http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...296916929-newly-created-router-skis-ski-3.jpg

And a door would be nice and put the gate to one side.

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mjdtexan said:


> I am glad you brought that up. I have been back there today trying to lay this out in my mind. I just picked up an old Delta 3 horsepower 3 phase 13" x 6" planer. I got for $50 bucks too. I nor the owner knew if it worked. I took it to my mentors shop and it fired right up. I am trying to decide on the correct Rotary 3 phase converter to get and what my wallet will allow.
> 
> Back on subject, how much space fore and aft of the planer you think I ought to allow? My goal is to produce dinning room tables in that shop and then sell them. My thoughts are twelve foot on either side should be enough? Does that sound right?


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Michael
> 
> It's going to be a NICE SHOP .
> I would suggest you sale the planer off for about the same as you paid for it, and get one that is not short all the parts, and without all the rust..  that's going to be money pit I think..
> ...


Man, it really took a long time for somebody to finally ding me for the pink building. I wondered how long it was going to take. Its been on another forum for a few days now and nothing on the color. The door. I am going to address that door in very short order. I will leave the gate though as added security. The side of the building facing the street is going to get painted like a Texas flag. Its a good thing my planer didnt hear you, poor ole gal. I fully intend to run that planer now till it cant be run no mo. :big_boss: That might be after the first board or many thousand board feet later. I do need an electrician friend though. I have a new breaker box/with breakers and no electrcian money.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> I'm a big fan on the Craftsman router but the tables are junk, best use as a step stool if that..now I will tons of hate post,


*I hate you, I hate you, absolutely, positively hate you :sarcastic:* We'll be in Littleton June 10. See you then.

Yep. doubled up 3/4" MDF is the best way to go. Glue it together convex )( sides together to cancel out any warp. It'll be as flat as Twiggy.
But the ply looks pretty good too. Don't worry about voids. They can be filled in with putty.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Mike

Sounds like I should be out of town on the 10th 


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AxlMyk said:


> *I hate you, I hate you, absolutely, positively hate you :sarcastic:* We'll be in Littleton June 10. See you then.
> 
> Yep. doubled up 3/4" MDF is the best way to go. Glue it together convex )( sides together to cancel out any warp. It'll be as flat as Twiggy.
> But the ply looks pretty good too. Don't worry about voids. They can be filled in with putty.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Michael...

Just a few thoughts here for whats its worth. If tables/furniture are what you will be looking to build/sale I'd say first look for a good solid table saw. This will be the heart of your shop. You'll need more room around this one item than any other. 2nd would be a good solid heavy work bench. 

12' on either side of your planer seems a bit much, BUT if you got the room, why not!
If the floor in your shop will allow you to move your equipment around freely, then casters are a good investment. If they are a bit uneven or difficult to move anything around on, go for larger casters. If that isn't practical, then of course, stationary work stations will be the ticket. Just lay it out on paper, this will give you a visual marker to start with. This would be a great opportunity to discuss with your mentor, get his thoughts and tap into his experiences as to what does and does not work. 

OUTLETS, OUTLETS, OUTLETS.. the fewer extension cords you have to use, the better. With a new 200amp service for a dedicated space like this, you will have plenty of circuits available. 

Its easy to spend someone else's money and give you a list of things to get but only you can determine whats needed as you go along and what your budget will allow. I would suggest that you keep an eye out for hand tools. Here you can get a great deal if your patient and shop around. Again, your mentor would be a great one to discuss this with. Personally I've found that hand planes, block planes, spoke shaves and a good set of chisels as well as card scrappers are invaluable and huge time savers for finish work. 

then ya got your router & table... I think there's a good forum around here somewhere for information on that and what its capable of...'

It'll be fun to watch your shop come to life. 



mjdtexan said:


> I am glad you brought that up. I have been back there today trying to lay this out in my mind. I just picked up an old Delta 3 horsepower 3 phase 13" x 6" planer. I got for $50 bucks too. I nor the owner knew if it worked. I took it to my mentors shop and it fired right up. I am trying to decide on the correct Rotary 3 phase converter to get and what my wallet will allow.
> 
> Back on subject, how much space fore and aft of the planer you think I ought to allow? My goal is to produce dinning room tables in that shop and then sell them. My thoughts are twelve foot on either side should be enough? Does that sound right?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

btw... had a nice break in the weather up here for a few days!! 60's YEAH!! 

but it looks like it was just a tease....


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

TwoSkies57 said:


> btw... had a nice break in the weather up here for a few days!! 60's YEAH!!
> 
> but it looks like it was just a tease....


I am working on the saw issue. I have a UniSaw that came from a sawmill that is EXTREMELY used up. Needs a fence too. 3hp single phase. Right now I am looking for a saw that I can use right now. I am actively in that search now. Once I have that I will rebuild the UniSaw and I will be a two saw shop. The reason for that is I want an Incra setup on one saw and just a regular Biesemyer (sp?) style fence on the other. At least thats the plan. I do intend to run plenty of plugs. Each 220 machine will be on its own circuit and I also bought those safety switches that you pull the handle down to kill the power for them. There will be no blade changes without pulling that switch.

Mid 70's for temps here. This is the time of the year that I watch everybody get real ansy around here. The think they are going to start planing their spring and summer crops in March. I tell em every year you will be sorry. Every year their sorry. I dont plant until Good Friday.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

got the Incra setup on my router table and love it. So much so, that i've been nickel and diming the 'parts' for a table saw setup. 

Keep an eye out for 'auctions'! Some great bargains can be had...


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