# Ideal Router for a Dovetail Jig? Is a D-handle ideal?



## JavaGeek (Jul 25, 2010)

Hello All, 
I am looking into purchasing a dovetail jig, either a Porter Cable omnijig or a Leigh D4R (24"). 

What is the ideal router for one of these jigs (or presumably any jig?).

I notice a lot of reviewers seem to prefer D-handles. Should I pay the extra for a D handle? 

I currently own a Porter Cable 892 which I keep in my router table as well as a Bosch Colt which I use for freehand flush trim and roundover work. 

I love my 892 quite a bit and am leaning towards purchasing another, perhaps with the grip vac attachment. Amazon sells them for 170 right now. This is assuming I don't discover a good reason to get a D handle base. 

I could get the Porter Cable 690LR with a proper D handle base for 170 or without for about 125.

Craftsman is selling a good looking 1.75 HP router for $80. 
Hitachi has a nice looking 2.25HP for $100 which got great reviews. 


What router would you guys choose?...lets assume anything out there with a max price of $250.

Thanks!
Steven


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Steven

Just pull out your Colt and use it,,you don't need a big router for any dovetail jig, you are just going down 3/8" deep the norm for blind dovetails and the Colt can do that easy..

But I do suggest pickup the base below for your Colt, it will suck up all the chips and keep your fingers out of the router hole.

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR007-S...f=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1293506668&sr=1-14

Or this one
http://www.amazon.com/Woodhaven-832...ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1293507036&sr=1-4

http://www.amazon.com/Woodhaven-830...f=sr_1_15?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1293506926&sr=1-15
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JavaGeek said:


> Hello All,
> I am looking into purchasing a dovetail jig, either a Porter Cable omnijig or a Leigh D4R (24").
> 
> What is the ideal router for one of these jigs (or presumably any jig?).
> ...


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## JavaGeek (Jul 25, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Steven
> 
> Just pull out your Colt and use it,,you don't need a big router for any dovetail jig, you are just going down 3/8" deep the norm for blind dovetails and the Colt can do that easy..
> 
> ====


Thanks for the advice!

That is part of the plan. When doing through dovetails, I was considering having the colt run the straight bit and the 2nd router running the dovetail bit. I am pretty sure both the omnijig and the D4R require 1/2" collets.

So for my next few projects, I think it's worth the money to buy a 2nd router, especially considering the Hitachi is only $100. Also, for various reasons, I've wanted a 1/2" collet router....both that I have a bunch of 1/2" bits I cannot use because my old 1/2" router is in a table now and also because it's handy to keep depths calibrated for longer.

I've tried the colt with my worthless Rockler dovetail jig and it did have some issues with oak and maple, using a brand new bit. It made the cut, I just had to move the router much slower than my old PC 890.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

When using my Leigh D4R I always reach for my DeWalt 618 with the D handle base. A smaller router could be used, but I'm quite happy with this combination. 

CharleyL


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

I think D-handles are a personal preference sort of thing. Some find the D-handle to provide better control, others may find the off-axis leverage to be prone to tipping the base. 

I use two PC 690-series routers for doing through DTs on the PC 4215 jig. Having two allows the fit to be fine-tuned without having to switch bits. One advantage of the OmniJig is that it has multiple depth-stop guides that can be set for different standard stock thicknesses, so you can "save" the fine-tuning for alter re-use.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ralph

Can't wait until you find out about the Katie dovetail jig, how easy and fast you can put dovetails in place, the router table is always setup the norm, just drop the bit in the router table ,put all the dovetails in all 4 parts in about 5 mins.or less..
with 5/16"" to 1" thick stock 

Katie Jig Tool System - Make Dovetail Joints Simply, Easily, and Quickly!

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Ralph Barker said:


> I think D-handles are a personal preference sort of thing. Some find the D-handle to provide better control, others may find the off-axis leverage to be prone to tipping the base.
> 
> I use two PC 690-series routers for doing through DTs on the PC 4215 jig. Having two allows the fit to be fine-tuned without having to switch bits. One advantage of the OmniJig is that it has multiple depth-stop guides that can be set for different standard stock thicknesses, so you can "save" the fine-tuning for alter re-use.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Wish I hadn't looked at the price on that. Ouch.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

You make your own cheap, try that with PC one 

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Cocheseuga said:


> Wish I hadn't looked at the price on that. Ouch.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I've got the HF one still sitting in it's box. I need to play around with it at some point.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

D-handled routers are limited to 1.5 -~ 2.5 HP and only available as fixed base routers. Their design is a carry over from the hand held circular saw, all of which are D-handled and make good sense there. Imagine a circular saw without one. 
Users of D-handled routers like the switch-in-hand and claim they have “more control”. Few other advantages are reported. D-handled routers are outsold by their two handled counterparts by more than 8 to 1. They are the least popular of all routers and more expensive than their two handled fixed based relatives. Moreover, and to this woodworker, they have control problems. Like the circular saw, their feed direction should be in line with the handle axis and when you’re behind the handle you can’t see the cutter. Turning corners on the outside of stock requires high skill to keep the router from rocking. It’s a lot more difficult to use one with an edge guide. Expect the cord set to be in the way when the tool is upside down for bit changes. The Bosch 1618 will not rest upside because of the wire. The high up handle grip will require some getting use to, to keep the router balanced. The two-handled fixed base takes less effort and skill to control.

What router then? Would use nearly any fixed base, 1617 Bosch, 5615 Milwaukee, DW 618 or the PC's as you suggest. 
My choice would be the DW 621 plunger, easy to hit target depth, light wt., good chip collector, perfect controls, good power, tho with clumsy foot print.
Would put the colt away for all dovetail cuts. Hasn't the power, the collet nor the ability to stage rout.


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## amaonline (Jan 1, 2011)

*D-handle??*

I agree with Quillman, about the d-handle(control is definitely the issue for me) , and the colt. I love my little colt router for the right job but dovetailing ain't it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Howard

Can't wait until you find out they have a new device out to hold the router for you,it's called a router table, no D-Handle needed..and it will put almost all work bench dovetail jigs to shame 

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amaonline said:


> I agree with Quillman, about the d-handle(control is definitely the issue for me) , and the colt. I love my little colt router for the right job but dovetailing ain't it.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Howard
> 
> Can't wait until you find out they have a new device out to hold the router for you,it's called a router table, no D-Handle needed..and *it will put almost all work bench dovetail jigs to shame *
> 
> =========


"Shame" is often a matter of perspective and/or personal preference, I've found. Plus, some people find moving large panels around, on-edge, on the table to be a bit wobbly. :wacko:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ralph

How many times in your life time will you do Big panels, not many I think  but you will do small projects over and over..  why not do them the easy way on the router table..  the KISS way..
Plus a note,,the dovetail jig will support the upright panel easy..all that's needed is to slide it over the bit on the router table.."it's matter of perspective " 
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Ralph Barker said:


> "Shame" is often a matter of perspective and/or personal preference, I've found. Plus, some people find moving large panels around, on-edge, on the table to be a bit wobbly. :wacko:


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

amaonline said:


> I agree with Quillman, about the d-handle(control is definitely the issue for me) , and the colt. I love my little colt router for the right job but dovetailing ain't it.


I like the feeling of a d-base router. I agree with you on the trim router. They are great & sometimes can't live without them, but definitely would not grab one for dovetailing.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I use the routers below all the time for the work bench dovetail jig ,it's a 1 1/4HP just like the Colt..the Air router is also rated as a 1 1/4 HP router and can take on the brass guides as well. 
I use the dovetail jig below the norm for blind dovetails, it's low cost dovetail jig, for about 35.oo bucks but it will do a good job once it's setup right  no need to drop a ton of money for a real simple dovetail joint, it's just a very small part of the project the norm...  many go over the deep end when buying a dovetail jig, I think...

Amazon.com: Makita 3621 1-1/4 HP Plunge Router: Home Improvement

Dovetail Machine

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