# Modification Of Jerry's Unpopular New Idea



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

O.K. for the fifth time I am going to attempt to start this new thread, in the past, each time that I have almost completed it every thing has just gone away.

So here we go again. I must assume that the readed has read the first thread that I am referring to that is being modified. 

What if you simple run the sub fence through the blade without attempting to cross cut a work piece. After this is done the distance from the cut in the sub fence and the right end of the sub fence is the distance or the length that you want to cross cut the narrow work piece in question. 

After the cut in the sub fence is done, simply push the fence back to the right and out of the way. Now, if you simple lay the workpiec that you want to cut against the sub fence so that the right end of the workpiece matchs the end of the sub fence you can make the cut letting the sub fence be what is used to determine the length of the part that you are trying to cut off. Now there is no way for the piece to be trapped between the blade and the fence since the fence has been moved out of the way. To me the advantage is that I can still use the scale on the system to set the length of the cut off piece without having to compensate for a sub fence attached to the TS fence or a block, that is set between the fence and the end of the workpiece that the piece is being cut from. If this is not clear, let me know and I will try to clearify it, and if you do understand, tell me what you think.

Jerry


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## rout66 (Oct 19, 2011)

Hi Jerry,
Point me to the first thread, and I'll try to figure out what you mean.
How's the weather doing in your part of Texas?
Mark


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## rout66 (Oct 19, 2011)

Jerry Bowen said:


> What if you simple run the sub fence through the blade without attempting to cross cut a work piece.
> 
> After this is done the distance from the cut in the sub fence and the right end of the sub fence is the distance or the length that you want to cross cut the narrow work piece in question.
> 
> ...


Still trying to visualize your approach. So far, I'm not sure if the sub-fence is only partially cut or cut off.
Mark


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## rout66 (Oct 19, 2011)

I found your other post. The position of the block of wood as you presented it, looks uncertain as to what it can do with the blade, and over the top dangerous...


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

markm said:


> Still trying to visualize your approach. So far, I'm not sure if the sub-fence isns only partially cut or cut off.
> Mark


Mark, I will try again, once again I lost the first answer to your inwuiry, don't know why, it is sure getting frustrating to work on this forum when I keep losing the text.

No you do not cut clear through SF. It must be taller than the height of the blade but since it was cut using the TS fence in place, the distance from the cut to the fence is that of what you want to cut your work piect to be. Lets say for the sake of the description that you are wanting to cut off is a three inch piece off off the end of a 12 inch piece of stock. After the non cut through cut has been made into SF the distance between the cut and the TS fence is three inches. Now with the fence moved out of the way the 12 inch piece of stock can be laid against the SF with the right end of it matched to the right end end of the SF so now the piece of stock is set up in relationship of the blade to be cut off at three inches and it will not get trapped since the TS fence has been moved out of the way. Do you understand now Mark?

Jerry


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Mark, I will try again, once again I lost the first answer to your inwuiry, don't know why, it is sure getting frustrating to work on this forum when I keep losing the text.
> Jerry, just a little tip. To keep from loosing what you have typed try typing your message in a word processor (note pad) first. Copy to the clipboard and then paste the message into your post/reply.
> 
> No you do not cut clear through SF. It must be taller than the height of the blade but since it was cut using the TS fence in place, the distance from the cut to the fence is that of what you want to cut your work piect to be. Lets say for the sake of the description that you are wanting to cut off is a three inch piece off off the end of a 12 inch piece of stock. After the non cut through cut has been made into SF the distance between the cut and the TS fence is three inches. Now with the fence moved out of the way the 12 inch piece of stock can be laid against the SF with the right end of it matched to the right end end of the SF so now the piece of stock is set up in relationship of the blade to be cut off at three inches and it will not get trapped since the TS fence has been moved out of the way. Do you understand now Mark?
> ...


You are indeed trying to re-invent the wheel. Why not just use an adjustable stop (clamp of some kind) on the extended miter fence instead of the saw fence? Simply measure from the cut on your miter fence to the length you want to cut and place a stop there.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

curiousgeorge said:


> You are indeed trying to re-invent the wheel. Why not just use an adjustable stop (clamp of some kind) on the extended miter fence instead of the saw fence? Simply measure from the cut :dance3n your miter fence to the length you want to cut and place a stop there.


I suppose that the best answer to your question is that I paid $500 for the Incra TS LS system so that I wouldn't have to use a tape measure. As to trying to re-invent the wheel, if somebody didn't try to do that in other undertaking we would still be using spears and arrow to hunt with. Progress is made by thinking of new ideas, of course not all new ideas are good ones. Personally I like this one but that doesn't mean it is good for anybody else. Seems as though anytime I stray from the traditional ways of doing things I sure get a lot of negative posts to my thread . granted moat of them are legit and have to do with my safety, but oh well, what the heck.'.... I must live in a different world than most members. It's time to forget this forum and go on with my experimenting and learning on my own and stop looking like a bafoon.

Jerry


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## rout66 (Oct 19, 2011)

*Don't give up.*



Jerry Bowen said:


> Seems as though anytime I stray from the traditional ways of doing things I sure get a lot of negative posts to my thread . granted moat of them are legit and have to do with my safety, but oh well, what the heck.'.... I must live in a different world than most members. It's time to forget this forum and go on with my experimenting and learning on my own.
> Jerry


Jerry,
Don't give up on this forum. 
True, there are some bean counters and mother hens always around.
There are however in this forum, some very knowledgeable workers of wood from all over the world, and problems get solved pretty fast. 
You will have to separate the wheat from the chaff, so to speak. 
I subscribe to other wood forums, and the professionals on those forums do a good job of sharing information and ideas, while still playing nice. 
Mark


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Jerry, the thing that I have seen from you is you ask questions! That's remarkable! Just to let you know there are many people out there that only discover the correct way by reading the answer to OTHERS questions! I admire someone that questions everything, it shows a thirst for knowledge. That being said your using the table saw fence for setting up the auxillary fence on your Miter Fence is sound. The auxillary fence should be long enough to push the cut off completely past the blade...But the cut off should never be trapped between the blade and the tablesaw fence, so slide the fence to provide plenty of clearance so that can't happen. Also be aware that the cut off piece can still be propelled if it is not clamped to the auxillary fence. Don't use you fingers closer than about 3" from the blade. The safer way would be to use a stop block on the miter fence with the block accurately set to the finish cut size and using a auxillary fence to minimize tearout. I know where you are going...I find the scales hard to read and try to find a faster way BUT the safer way can be more predictable. using the miter fence at an angle (even a slight angle) can work like a snowplow it can push the cut off either toward or away from a rotating blade due to vibration.


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## jsears (Apr 5, 2012)

Jerry,

No need to leave the forum. I learned long ago that one needs to have a fairly thick skin to belong to just about any forum. It's very easy sit in front of a computer screen and say things and make suggestions, that they would not say to another persons face. However, I haven't seen that in this case. Most everyone has pointed out that what you are trying to do is very dangerous, and no one wants to see anyone get hurt.
Having said that, You are making this waaay more complicated than it needs to be. Plus, your Incra fence was not designed for your intended purpose. 

Good luck in your quest. Hope you hang around.

Jim


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## Shortslvs (Jan 13, 2013)

I think it was wise to re-post without the photo. I got a chill. You are less likely to get as many people talking about the bad idea without the pic.

I am not sure that buying the incra fence so you "won't have to measure" is the very best reason to buy the fence. Maybe that is where you are off track, but since that is your stated reason wouldn't the 1" block attached to the fence before the cut "trick" accomplish the "not measuring" goal. Just add 1" to your measurement and keep both your eyes...


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Jerry,

Please don't do what you are thinking about. It will create a pocket in the fence that the cutoff can be captured in and may give you the same type of kickback you are trying to avoid especially if you try to push the cutoff past the shoulder of the pocket.

Use an offset block on your fence before the blade. Make the block 1.00" thick and use your fence scale to set the cut. All you need to do is add 1.00" to the measurement on the scale.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Jerry

If you want to use the rip fence in conjunction with a crosscut sled/mitre fence to cut narrow pieces it isn't a problem, however, you MUST ensure that the pieces you cut off can't end up trapped between the blade and the rip fence. On European-style saws this isn't an issue because our rip fences have a guide plate which can be drawn back to behind the blade. On a Biesmeyer-style (American-style) rip fence you really need to add an auxilliary fence plate to the face of the fence, a piece of say 3/4in melamine (or thicker), which stops short of the saw blade. This will give you the required clearance to cut safely. As others have rightly said - a trapped piece of timber can easily launch in your direction at about 90mph and from experience I can tell you it will hurt!

Stay safe

Regards

Phil


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Jerry, crosscutting is best done with your radial arm saw of the tools you have listed in your shop. Personally, I have a nice sliding compound miter saw that we use for this sort of thing and it makes crosscutting multiple identical lengths so easy mt dog could do it if it weren't for that "thumb issue". The Incra product you have is great, but it doesn't make for a panacea in all situations. A stop-block with a SCMS or radial arm saw is much better than a table saw for crosscutting marrow workpieces.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Jerry there is a way to make your fence work and not have to measure but you won't get .000 of an inch accuracy which you seem to target. If you rebuild your sled to have a shorter fence but a longer baseplate then you could hold onto both your workpiece and your cutoff with your hands, provided that the cutoff isn't to short to safely do this. Make a cut into the sled and then take a paper tape measure and glue it onto the fence with the zero mark lined up with the cut. You would just cut far enough to separate the pieces then back the sled up so that you aren't passing the back of the blade where there is a potential for the blade to throw your cut off back at you. Lee Valley sells tapes like that and they are cheap.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Jerry Bowen said:


> I suppose that the best answer to your question is that I paid $500 for the Incra TS LS system so that I wouldn't have to use a tape measure. As to trying to re-invent the wheel, if somebody didn't try to do that in other undertaking we would still be using spears and arrow to hunt with. Progress is made by thinking of new ideas, of course not all new ideas are good ones. Personally I like this one but that doesn't mean it is good for anybody else. Seems as though anytime I stray from the traditional ways of doing things I sure get a lot of negative posts to my thread . granted moat of them are legit and have to do with my safety, but oh well, what the heck.'.... I must live in a different world than most members. It's time to forget this forum and go on with my experimenting and learning on my own and stop looking like a bafoon.
> 
> Jerry


Jerry, I am sorry you got your feeling hurt over some sincere/legitimate suggestions. No one is accusing you of being a buffoon. All I can suggest is; if you don't want anyone making suggestions to you don't ask for opinions. Traditional woodworking methods were brought about by thousands of years of people trying new methods or ideas. If the new method/idea is not safe or simply doesn't work it is disregarded by MOST experienced woodworkers. No one is saying you have to do anything a particular way. You are a grown person and if you want to use unsafe practices it is your choice and no one else can make the decisions for you. All we can do is point out that something is unsafe and maybe suggest a safer (more traditional?) way.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Ought Ohhhhhh, Jerry, I think I know what you are saying. YIKES says I  I guess, if you wish to do it the way you describe, shouldn't be a problem. If in fact I do understand your position. Bring the TS fence to desired distance from the TS blade, in this case, 3"s. Position your SF to the TS fence and lock down. Then move the TS fence out of the way. By brining the 12" piece to the right edge of the SF fence, you now have your 3"s. Since the TS fence has been moved back and out of the way, trapping the piece between the blade and fence is a non issue.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Ought
> 
> Ohhhhhh, Jerry, I think I know what you are saying. YIKES says I  I guess, if you wish to do it the way you describe, shouldn't be a problem. If in fact I do understand your position. Bring the TS fence to desired distance from the TS blade, in this case, 3"s. Position your SF to the TS fence and lock down. Then move the TS fence out of the way. By brining the 12" piece to the right edge of the SF fence, you now have your 3"s. Since the TS fence has been moved back and out of the way, trapping the piece between the blade and fence is a non issue.


BILL, YOU SEEM TO BE THE ONLY ONE THAT GETS WHAT I TRIED TO DESCRIBE, SEEMS SIMPLE AND WORKABLE TO ME. DON'T UNERSTAND WHY THE OTHERS CAN'T GET OFF THE ISSUE OF TRAPPING THE CUT OFF PIECE BETWEEN THE BLADE AND THE FENCE WHEN THE FENCE IS COMPLETELY OUT OF THE PICTURE. THANKS FOR YOUR POST THAT SAYS IT SO PLAIN. I WILL NOT BE SAYING ANYTHING ON THE FORM AFTER THIS IN REGARD TO THINGS THAT REQUIRE OTHER'S OPINIONS OR THEIR ABILITY TO UNERSTAND. I've LEARNED MY LESSON. AND TO THE IDEA THAT THE ONLY PROCEDURES THAT ARE EXCEPABLE ARE THOSE THAT HAVE BEEN USED FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS. HOW BORING LIFE WOULD BE IF ONE WOULD NEVER TRY NEW THINGS AND/OR IDEAS. 

jERRY


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Jerry Bowen said:


> ...
> What if you simple run the sub fence through the blade without attempting to cross cut a work piece. After this is done the distance from the cut in the sub fence and the right end of the sub fence is the distance or the length that you want to cross cut the narrow work piece in question.
> 
> After the cut in the sub fence is done, simply push the fence back to the right and out of the way. Now, if you simple lay the workpiec that you want to cut against the sub fence so that the right end of the workpiece matchs the end of the sub fence you can make the cut letting the sub fence be what is used to determine the length of the part that you are trying to cut off. Now there is no way for the piece to be trapped between the blade and the fence since the fence has been moved out of the way. To me the advantage is that I can still use the scale on the system to set the length of the cut off piece without having to compensate for a sub fence attached to the TS fence or a block, that is set between the fence and the end of the workpiece that the piece is being cut from. If this is not clear, let me know and I will try to clearify it, and if you do understand, tell me what you think.
> ...


Jerry, I see no reason that procedure would not work. I also see no reason it would be unsafe! The only "problem" I see is the accuracy of your cut will depend on your ability to line up the end of the board with your sub fence.

I have an idea for you that I will document with pictures, that will allow you to directly use the accuracy of the Incra to do crosscuts safely. But as I am baby sitting a sick child today, it may take a day or so!

Stay tuned! Oh and Jerry, I really enjoy your thought provoking question! Don't give up. And you are correct about innovation... "they" thought the Wright Brothers were nuts back in the day, and we know how that went!:dance3:


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Jerry, I see that it's a new way to skin the cat, and as you might have noticed from some of my DIY projects, I am ALL ABOUT that. Trying new ideas and ways to do the same thing is a GOOD thing.

This method sounds like it would work and not be dangerous, but in practice, I'm thinking there might be two aspects of it that I might grow to dislike over time ...

1. It seems like it would take more time and work to set it up than simply adding 1" to the fence position and using a 1" spacer on the fence side before the blade.

2. I think I would end up creating (and discarding) more scraps that way, because of the cutout on the subfence.

- Chris


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

I do want to say one thing about this forum that really urks me and it may be the computer and not the forum itself but what I am talking about is /how often I completely lose all that I have typed in a new threat or a post to another member's thread. Ralph suggested creating my text on another program tha copying and pasting it to the forum.

In regard to this thread. I have come to two conclusions, first the idea is indeed completely safe as to the issue of trapping the cut off piece between the bladea and the TS fence. The reason is that the fence has been moved far enough to the right of the blade so that trapping isn't possible, don't understand why that has been so hard to explain.

The second conclusion that I have come to is that the Incra Express Sled with the miter guage and fence set up is faster, easier, and far more consistant when needing to make several cuts of the same length, I had to come to this on my own. 

Jerry


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Jerry Bowen said:


> I had to come to this on my own.
> 
> Jerry


Nine times out of ten that's how it gets done.

All of this stuff is just too hands-on have a set method across the board to be "the right way" for everyone.

Listen to advice, study technique and conceptualize all you want but in the end one still has to get down to doing it, that's the real learning part.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Jerry,

I almost never lose the text of what I was typing, so I doubt it is the website.

But there is a way that you can lose the text, and I wonder if you are inadvertently doing it. On many browsers, if you press the <backspace> key, it will take you to the previous page you were on.

But if you are typing in a text box, then <backspace> will delete the previous character.

Now imagine a scenario where you are typing, and something causes the text box to lose the focus, and then you press <backspace> because you want to delete the last character you typed. Voila, instead of the character going away, the browser takes you to the previous page! ARRRRRRGGGGGGGGHHHH!!!!!!

So I wonder if, while typing a response, something happens and the focus goes away from the text box you are typing in, and then you hit <backspace>, resulting in the browser going to the previous page.

Do you use a laptop? One that has one of those touch-sensitive mouse-pad things that you use with your finger? I do not like laptops primarily because my thumb or something touches the pad while I am typing and moves the focus when I didn't want it to.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Chris Curl said:


> Jerry,
> 
> I almost never lose the text of what I was typing, so I doubt it is the website.
> 
> ...


Yes Chris, I am using a laptop. The last paragraph of your post is most likely the cause of my problem. Since the back space key is near the top of the key pad so I do not think that hitting that key is not the problem.

I am of the impression that other members have run into this problem too. If I ever accidently discover what the reason is for losing my text, I certainly will post it and if anybody else knows about this, hope they tell us.

Jerry


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

It's a user error thing,I do it all the time  no big deal ....just retype it...but just take your time... 

Here's a little tip,use the Shift key on the right side stay away from the left side one right by the Ctrl hot key

I also don't like the Mouse Pad so I disable it and just use the normal ext. mouse off a usb port..
===


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

This has happened to me on the odd occasion. 
I have though I made a post but it was not there.
I believe that I have typed in some text then gone back to check something in the post to which I was responding.
Going back before clicking on "post quick reply" deletes the text.


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## me5269 (Jun 2, 2011)

"Do you use a laptop? One that has one of those touch-sensitive mouse-pad things that you use with your finger? I do not like laptops primarily because my thumb or something touches the pad while I am typing and moves the focus when I didn't want it to."

Jerry,
This happens to me all the time. My thumb hits the touchpad and everything gets deleted or it moves the cursor and I end up typing where I don't want to (and I was a network administator for 15+ yrs). I cheated and bought an external keyboard and mouse and use that most of the time.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Hi Jerry, I was having that problem for a while too and it was a bad internet connection. I got into the habit of highlighting every thing I wrote and if it didn't go through all I had to do was go back and paste it again. Got rid of the frustration that way.

Going back to the beginning here Jerry, my comments were on what I saw as an inherent danger in the method you were using. I didn't think that you had recognised it, i.e. when the free cut piece was passing by the rear of the blade. It wasn't that the risk was unmanageable. There was a possibility that the freecut piece could rattle around and catch the saw teeth as they were rising and be thrown towards you. Your hands weren't at risk. They would well behind the action. But your eyes, face, and throat would be at danger. A strike in the chest would be painful but highly unlikely to be injurious. So if you stood off to one side, and wore face and throat protection, the risk involved with doing what you originally suggested in the first post would be sufficiently managed to make that operation relatively safe. That isn't to say that other methods might not be safer.

Another method I've thought of since I read that original post would be be to clamp the free piece to the sled(miter fence), such as with a Kwik-clamp. Now that piece is no longer free floating and the risk of the saw teeth catching it and throwing it is gone. It doesn't take a lot of force, just enough to keep that free piece from rattling back and forth between the blade and the fence. 

Working safe is all about recognising risk and managing it. It isn't like I never do anything that doesn't have risk. But I have learned to recognise it better so that my "spidey senses" are on high alert when I realize that I am at risk so that I can keep important body parts out of the way or just stop before something goes sideways. I would hope that you recognise tha everyone's input on this was meant to prevent injury to you or someone else.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Hi Jerry, I was having that problem for a while too and it was a bad internet connection. I got into the habit of highlighting every thing I wrote and if it didn't go through all I had to do was go back and paste it again. Got rid of the frustration that way.
> 
> Going back to the beginning here Jerry, my comments were on what I saw as an inherent danger in the method you were using. I didn't think that you had recognised it, i.e. when the free cut piece was passing by the rear of the blade. It wasn't that the risk was unmanageable. There was a possibility that the freecut piece could rattle around and catch the saw teeth as they were rising and be thrown towards you. Your hands weren't at risk. They would well behind the action. But your eyes, face, and throat would be at danger. A strike in the chest would be painful but highly unlikely to be injurious. So if you stood off to one side, and wore face and throat protection, the risk involved with doing what you originally suggested in the first post would be sufficiently managed to make that operation relatively safe. That isn't to say that other methods might not be safer.
> 
> ...


Charles,

I don't understand why I keep getting remarks about the the danger presented when the cut off piece is trapped between the blade and the fence. I have conceded this and agree that it is an unsafe practice. This post is in reference to the modification of the first thread and points out that the Don't know why this is so difficult for readers to grasp. Anyway, thank you for your concern. The good news is that so far I have only had to type this two times. My first attempt went away and now if I can just carefully finish this without losing it I will be done. Have great day everybody.

Jerry


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Here are the pictures I promised...

1. Zero Incra and subfence to the blade... Subfence measured .690 " not important, gonna zero it out anyway!

2. set scale to convenient reference... sorry no macro focus on this camera!

3. Subfence moved back of blade, miter gage with aux fence.

4. Incra set to 10"... minus the 7" initial setting, gives a cut length of 3". Again no macro!

5. Board in place for cut!

6. Board now clear of both the Incra and the subfence.

7: cut board at 2.998"! Cut after moving fence for pictures, cut 4 pieces before moving the fence. Reset to within a few thousandths. Beauty of Incra!

8. 5 workpieces with max error of .003!

Whole process including moving Incra from router table to tablesaw and taking pictures, about 45 minutes.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Dmeadows said:


> Here are the picture I promised...
> 
> 1. Zero Incra to subfence... Subfence measured .690 " not important, gonna zero it out anyway!
> 
> ...



Duane, You're talking my language now, hard to beat the Incra TS LS System isn't it?

Jerry


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Duane, You're talking my language now, hard to beat the Incra TS LS System isn't it?
> 
> Jerry


Yep,sure is!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Charles,
> 
> I don't understand why I keep getting remarks about the the danger presented when the cut off piece is trapped between the blade and the fence. I have conceded this and agree that it is an unsafe practice. This post is in reference to the modification of the first thread and points out that the Don't know why this is so difficult for readers to grasp. Anyway, thank you for your concern. The good news is that so far I have only had to type this two times. My first attempt went away and now if I can just carefully finish this without losing it I will be done. Have great day everybody.
> 
> Jerry


Jerry, you misunderstood what I was posting about. My post was about recognizing risks and deciding how to manage them to an acceptable level, something we should all be doing every time we start a machine up. In the meantime, it seems you've found a good way to accomplish what you set out to do so the post worked for you even it it was aggravating to you at times.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Jerry, I am like several others in that *I enjoy reading your questions*. Very few of us have a lot of time to spend on answering any one post - so I would venture to guess that sometimes those comments may not be meant as harmful or "smarty-pants", but rather time conservative. I think I have observed a couple of things that may prove helpful: 

#1. Many of our threads and posts are viewed by large groups of individuals -including many guests. IF FOR NO OTHER REASON THAN THAT MERE FACT - YOUR QUESTIONS HAVE PROBABLY SAVED A LOT OF PEOPLE's FINGERS AND INJURIES THAT YOU WILL NEVER KNOW ABOUT! *YOU ARE TO BE COMMENDED ON THIS!*

#2. I am thinking that the single word "trapped" is being taken two ways: Maybe the word "pinched" could serve one of these applications better than trapped. Fact: if a cutoff is pinched between a spinning blade and a fence - the cutoff will often run into the spinning blade and cause a kickback. I am personally not aware of a kickback that did not injure something. Kickback (if you are lucky) will damage the workpiece, or; if you're not so lucky: the operator, bystanders or other things in its path. I have been hit by flying pieces and it CAN be extremely painful.

#3. On the "loss of text issue", Chris Curl pointed-out something really important: I have been using computers for over 25 years and on every laptop that I have ever used - the first thing I do is to DISABLE THE TOUCHPAD - even if the laptop belongs to someone else! I HATE TOUCHPADS! I far prefer a USB connected mouse.

First I will apologize and I am certain that many others feel the same way...If we didn't thoroughly enjoy the woodwork that we do, we wouldn't be here sharing our experiences. So it should stand to reason that everyone here is going to want to help you be safe and also enjoy what we are all doing.

I can guarantee that if you and *C*herryville*C*huck had any differences - it is a mere misunderstanding. CC was one of my very first friends on this forum and he is so helpful it could fill an encyclopedia set with his great advice. If there has EVER BEEN ANYONE that unselfishly wants to help it is him. Both of you are people I consider very good friends and I hope this stays this way for many years to come.


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