# Eagle America Finger Joint Bit



## Marty3000 (Sep 6, 2014)

Hi everyone.... I am trying to join end grain of 1 1/2 stock. I have a finger joint bit that is 1 1/2 long cutting surface. I cannot seem to get the end to match up flush. Does anyone have valuable info that would help me correct this problem. It doesn't seem like it will work without moving the bit after the first cut. That goes against the rule of setting the bit and cutting one side of the stock and flipping the other one over and machining the end. 

The cutter came from Eagle America com catalogue no.191-2215 it says in advertisment that it will work on stock sizes 5/16 to 1 1/2 thick. I hope I have given enough info... I do know that this is one frustrating problem.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Are you talking about a reversible glue joint bit? If so it seems the bit is not properly set.
Setting Up Glue Line Router Bits - NewWoodworker.com LLC links a nice set up procedure. When measuring the measuring the differnces between the two cuts I using playing cards. ie it might be four cards thick I then take half the cards and adjust the bit up or down that distance. Be patient you should get a good joint
But occasionally bits are mismade. If you try the right set up and still no luck contact the vendor


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

If the stock is not the same thickness, it can present problems, as well.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Get it as close as you can and then run it through your planer. If you measure a board very carefully and very accurately there is a good probability that the thickness varies in different spots. This is because the density varies and unless you use a really large, very heavy planer at slow feed then the variations are just a fact of life. Most of the time it's not important but in this case it can cause problems.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Get it as close as you can and then run it through your planer. If you measure a board very carefully and very accurately there is a good probability that the thickness varies in different spots. This is because the density varies and unless you use a really large, very heavy planer at slow feed then the variations are just a fact of life. Most of the time it's not important but in this case it can cause problems.


A trick I use is to mark the boards top and bottom. 
Then, just make sure you are routing with the same side facing down on ALL the boards.

Not perfect, but can help get good joints that can then get sent through the planer.


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## Marty3000 (Sep 6, 2014)

First of all Thank You for the reply....But I am actually talking about the interlocking finger type bit. I have used one like you sent the link about and they work great. I am having trouble getting started off and using the full length of the bit which is 1 1/2 in. cutting length. I just cannot seem to get it to work out with both sides flush. I know there must be a way, no instruction came with the bit at all, zero...I would have thought that something to get the user pointed in the right direction would have been included. 

You can see the picture of the bit from my original post from Eagle America catalogue no.191-2215 that will give you a better idea of what I am talking about... it has been on bear of a problem to figure out for me. I have always been able to get something to work with a little instruction but not this time.

Thanks for any help in advance


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

I believe this is the bit that Marty is referring to:


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## Marty3000 (Sep 6, 2014)

Yes you are correct that is the bit...The example that is shown doesn't seem to match doe it?


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Adrain
This all I could find from eagle,
Finger Joint Bits
For stock sizes 5⁄16" to 11⁄2"
Produce professional,
top quality finger joints
in a wide range of stock
thicknesses. Join wood
end-to-end or edge-to-
edge. To use, simply align
cutters with the center
of the stock and make
first cut, face up. Cut the
mating piece face down. Both bits are carbide tipped, 2 flute with bearing guides. Use in router table only. 1⁄2" shank.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

No matter what current your 110vac router consumes, it isn't enough to drive that cutter.
I'd bet your work is squirming as it passes that meat grinder.
How many passes/cut? 1?
Moreover, how well is your stock prepared?
Is it parallel in thickness & width? Is it flat, straight and free of defects?
Is your fixturing stout enough to hold the work and prevent tearout across the grain?
In my view, this cutter should not be in any router inventory.
I'm not surprised you're having trouble.


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## Marty3000 (Sep 6, 2014)

Quillman said:


> No matter what current your 110vac router consumes, it isn't enough to drive that cutter.
> I'd bet your work is squirming as it passes that meat grinder.
> How many passes/cut? 1?
> Moreover, how well is your stock prepared?
> ...


Thanks for your input.....but I don't think any of the reason you stated are the problem. Stock machined square and flat, ridget set up with backer board, router doesn't see to have a problem. I've used panel rasing bits wit no problem.The main problem is geomerty, sides not matching up like I think it should.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

In that case, measure the error, divide x 2 and change the ht. of the cutter x that amount, on opposing sticks.


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