# My first 2 projects in the new flat, using my new Bladerunner X2



## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

Remember, these are my first attempts 

I figured it was apropos (how's that for a 50-cent word?) to frame my first attempt at painting with my first attempt at making a mitered picture frame (MDF). It's 20" x 24". I see there is some sort of white streaks across 3 spots on the painting, you can tell the paint was scratched off-must have been from the moving. Back then, I just could not figure out how to make good whiskers! lol I screwed up and dropped 2 boards and of course got damaged on the top right, did my best to fix it with wood filler. At least it's not super easy to see unless you are searching for it. And I am regretting the black, not sure what color for the frame...

And then my kitchen shelf: I salvaged some old shelving that was damaged by the FedEx guy (saw him do it! lol) so the right corner on it needs touching up, also. But I was able to cut out the worst damage because of the length I wanted. The shelf is just particle board that has been covered with a black/brown foil, so not sure how to fix that yet...and I used 2 3/8" x 10" black iron nipples, 2 floor flanges and 2 caps. Although the black looked very cool, I ended up not liking the idea of sticky pipes in the kitchen, to collect dust and debris, so I ended up cleaning the black stuff off. 

But there you have it. :yes4:


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

Almost forgot the pics! lol


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Bummer about the whiskers, but otherwise the tigger looks good, as good as what I've some so-called pros doing. And the black frame doesn't look bad, certainly good enough to keep until you decide on another color. The pipe shelf holders are not bad, except I would have made the shelf longer.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You might find the colours you need to match different paintings and prints. It's what I use. There are over 120 base colours by mixing the base colours in varying proportions. I couldn't find there colour mixing chart on there site but you might be able to find it by searching Saman Color mixing chart. It's a Canadian company but I see they have dealers in New York and California. You can use water based or oil based varnish over it. https://saman.ca/en/products/finishes-interior-woodwork/waterbased-stain


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

Yeah, I will have to get other wood in the future; I can definitely see where it would look much better longer. Unfortunately, I had to cut it that short because of the damage by the delivery man-I had bought 12 boards for the old flat and he dropped the entire box on the concrete porch and the box busted open, severe damage-IKEA shipped a whole new set. But I decided to hang onto the bad ones "just in case" and now I have a couple projects I can use them for in the time-being.

Thanks, Theo! Yeah, those stupid whiskers! hahaha And had I not freaked and put the tiger's chin down in the blue area, I think he would have really looked 3D.

Charles, I just took a look at that site. Looks like some good safe stain, only 1 coat?? I am really digging some of those non-wood colors, I guess whatever I do, it should probably be a lot lighter than the tiger to make him pop? 

The white primer really made the tiger pop, and at first, I thought to just paint it white, but holding it up to the wall, it made the walls look really dirty because they use the ugliest off-white paint I have ever seen. I think it's like Dutchboy eggshell -the maintenance man correctly called it smoker's yellow/tan! haha

The blue around the tiger was my own color recipe and I used it on several paintings I experimented with - now I can't find the paper that I wrote it down on! lol


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

Both of them look good, Cindy. I really like the look of using pipe fittings for shelf brackets. And if that's your first attempt at painting, you'll go far with your own personalized decor.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Cindy, just trying a few colours on your frame...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I think the shelf mounting on the flanges look pretty darn good. Inventive. The tiger is very well done, and I agree including the full chin would have been a little stronger, particularly if you kept the bottom line of the painting with the chin extending over that line just a bit. Carrying an image over the frame line accentuates the 3rd dimensional quality.

Cutting accurate miters is one of the most demanding parts of woodworking. As to filler, try the stuff in the picture. It is by far my favorite because after sanding, you can apply finish to it. It comes in a variety of colors on Amazon. You generally only use a bit of it for filling. 

BTW, you saw cuts on the downstroke, which often produces a little wood blow out. You can often reduce that by working good face up, and applying green painters tape to the cut line. Doesn't always work but really reduces the problem. 

You can get really good quality Baltic Birch plywood via mail order an small sheet sizes, or by finding a woodworking store or wood supplier. Baltic birch is a much better choice than MDF or particle board. It has many layers and the internal voids are all filled in so you get a nice, multilayer edge. I can tell you're having a good time with wood. That's reward enough.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

All of my paint needs anymore are taken care of with latex paint. I do mix custom colors at times, but don't keep the recipe. I use medicine bottles to keep it in, the straight ones, that the lid comes off with about a quarter turn. You could always write the recipe on tape and put it on the bottle. I tried screw top bottles, but the paint 'welded' the tops on. The paint keeps well, so when I mix a custom color what I don't use keeps until I want it later. No smell, water cleanup, can't beat that. I get one small can each of, black, white, red, yellow, blue, green. I can never get a mix for blue or green, so just buy dark blue and dark green.

I also use latex as a stain, which works out well for me. Just thin it down, maybe 10-1, whatever looks good for you. Can clearly see the wood grain, and I like it over store bought stains. Holds up very well for me too, lost a piece of stained wood outside my shop, and found it a year later. Still looked good.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Nice work Cindy . Those floor flanges you used for your shelving are very handy . A few years ago I learnt about them , and they worked great for making bumper plate storage racks to . If you look to the left of Arny , you can see some of them attached to the wood with the mirror


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

Hey Paul, thanks for modeling the tiger in different colors! I was like OH! with the blue and then OH!!! with the green. I knew I wouldn't like the brown or wood colors for it. But now I have to decide on those other 2 for sure!

Thanks Tom! I just felt I needed something different for the kitchen. Yeah, this is funny, I have astigmatism in both eyes, and even though I can see 3D, I have a hard time focusing in on it. Yet, I know a woman with ONE eye, and she can draw/paint 3D marvelously! Go figure! LOL But I am going to practice some more drawing trying to get that look over a edging/background/fence. I am just now figuring out shadowing a little bit. That will be a huge help! Thanks for the cutting tips! I am going to try that way, next time. And I found the filler and have bookmarked it for my next Amazon purchase. Yeahhhh, I AM having fun with doing all this stuff! 

Now you tell me Theo! I just recently bought some more cheap acrylics! But, I am going to go for the latex in the near future. I kept asking myself if I could do this successfully and never even thought of asking that question. DOH! But thanks for the advice, this will make things cheaper and easier. Funny about the wood still looking great a year later! But good!

Ha! That's so clever, Rick. Looks great, too. My poor weights have been sitting in a couple piles on the floor. If I can find a good space to utilize, I just might steal your idea!

Sidenote: I finally finished repairing one chair and it's rock solid (3 to go). I am not refinishing them, though, since I am going to be turning my dining table into counter height, eventually. I have to confess, even though I enjoy making things, I found out very quickly, I find furniture repair extremely boring.


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

What am I doing?!

I checked my E-mail and one came from Michael's and they are having a contest. The theme is painting on canvas, so I dared to put my tiger up! At this moment, I am 2nd place for most recent, but I am second to this cute little black girl, smiling and holding her scribblings on canvas...I haven't got a prayer! LOL

*https://www.instagram.com/explore/tags/makebreaksweeps/*


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

DerSchuhmacher said:


> Now you tell me Theo! I just recently bought some more cheap acrylics! But, I am going to go for the latex in the near future. I kept asking myself if I could do this successfully and never even thought of asking that question. DOH! But thanks for the advice, this will make things cheaper and easier. Funny about the wood still looking great a year later! But good!


Of course, it's always more fun to tell someone too late. Not advice, not advice, I don't advise, just tell what or how I do. I use acrylic latex, not the ones labeled just latex. About the same price, but the acrylic latex works out a bit better for me. And definitely cheaper than tubes of paint. Look on-line and you'll find people saying using latex paint is a terrible thing to do, it won't last, etc., etc. Then others say it works fine, and is less costly than acrylics. Actually latex paint has developed where it is equal to, or better, and oil based house paint. And if you can pant a house with it, and the paint will be outdoors 24/7/365 and last from 30-40 years, that's pretty darn good. It has worked very well for me, and I'll continue using it.

Yeah, that handle surprised me too. I have a picture of it somewhere, an after I found it one, but I don't recall where I put it so it wouldn't get lost. My guess is that it held up so well that long because of the paint - well, it was actually thinned way down, to check it as a stain, which wasn't bad.


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

Well, I won't call it advice then, but I will say that is great information!


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

DerSchuhmacher said:


> Well, I won't call it advice then, but I will say that is great information!


Information then: Strong tea will stain nicely, and dries quickly. But it takes a LOT of coats to get very dark.

Coffee makes a very nice stain. But it seems to take forever and a day to dry. But boy, does it ever make a nice dark stain.

And then there the usual, walnut husks steeped in water, food dyes, Rit clothing dye, and I can't recall what all now that I've tried at one time or another - did NOT want to pay the prices wanted for store bought dyes. And all in all, I think the thinned acrylic latex will meet my needs well enough.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Forgot to mention, acrylic latex is at least as good, or possibly better, than textile paint for painting on cloth. And it is loads less expensive. And cloth is loads less expensive then canvas.

I likely mentioned it before, but will repeat myself if so. Probably any wood glue would work for this, but I use Titebond II, and to repair holes in jeans or such, just glue on a patch. Works great, but when you wash, do NOT pull at the glued on patch, instead just toss the piece in the dryer, and when it comes out the patch is as good as new. Among other things I glued my carry pocket in my vest and at least two jackets. Sure beats sewing.

Ah, speaking of sewing. Stopped wearing a belt years ago, switched to suspenders. The first suspenders kept popping loose. Got a pair with larger clasps, would tear up my pants. So, got a pair of suspenders from Lowes, 3 clips, designed to hold tool belts up. Got some D rings, and sewed them on. Worked great, until the thread started breaking. OK, stronger thread, still broke. Got some monofilament fishing line, worked great, a pain to sew. Then got the idea of gluing a strip of jean material to hold the D rings. Worked, but started to tear. So, when to two layers of material, and now been using that for several years and have had no problems at all. By the way, really hate sewing, just wish I could figure out some way to glue buttons on too. I did have two riveted buttons on a coat come off - made two hooks out of a coat hanger, glued them in place with a few strips of jean material, and still working out great - just ugly.


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

I love it Theo! HAHAHA Yeah, I should experiment with the natural items to dye with just to see...will the natural like coffee and tea stay a long period of time or are they going to fade a lot faster than typical dyes? Turmeric is great for a yellowish dye! But I also don't know the longevity. What would you suggest to use to seal it?

I'll have to share your solution with the suspenders to my dad! LOL

I ought to try your jeans patching idea. I have 2 pairs with a tear in the same identical place. So it's worth a try to see how it comes out.

I was going to suggest riveted buttons instead of sewing buttons. But you can still have tear out... hangers, eh? LOL Now that is creative!


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

Well, someone likes my painting! I was afraid I would have 0 votes, but I now I have 3! Not bad considering it's got thousands upon thousands of entries on there.

))


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

DerSchuhmacher said:


> I love it Theo! HAHAHA Yeah, I should experiment with the natural items to dye with just to see...will the natural like coffee and tea stay a long period of time or are they going to fade a lot faster than typical dyes? Turmeric is great for a yellowish dye! But I also don't know the longevity. What would you suggest to use to seal it?
> 
> I'll have to share your solution with the suspenders to my dad! LOL
> 
> ...


Well, they used natural dyes for centuries, and you can still see the colors in most easily. Don't know if sunlight would dim them or not. Moved on to other projects, so didn't pursue the natural dyes. Still need to do more with thinned acrylic latex, but that seems to last really well, but my next tries will be like 20 to 1, instead of 10 to one. I'll likely try thinned Titebond II, but if not that probably water based poly.

The suspenders is one of my better ideas. 

I use the glue to patch holes in the pockets of my pocket T shirts too. Plus make a variety of bags from, usually, pants legs - shooting rest bags, tool bags, bag with handles for taking rolled coins to the bank, a really ugly thingy based on a glasses case to hold my sketch pens and pencils and a flashlight. 

And a picture of the hook. The coat is now pretty much patches, so been trying to find a similar one for a reasonable price. It's fake fleece lined, nice and warm, and ran me about $30 years ago. Now even ones I don't like are usually about $100, the ones I like way more. Bah. Humbug.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I fergot. I like to use thinned Titebond II as a finish on a lot of my projects. Asked the glue people and they told me it can be tinted, with food coloring, Rit dye, basically about anything. I'm sure you could do the same with other wood glues, but my glue of choice is Titebond II, so didn't check. Oh yes, they also told me that a lot of sculpturers, with wood sculptures outdoors, often coat the work with up to 7 coats of Titebond. Apparently it holds up. I would try it on one of my Tikis, except for the fact that the acrylic latex holds up so well I feel that is all I need. My shop Tiki has several coats of varnish (I found a can and just wanted to use it up, so it has a LOT of coats), mostly to make sure no bugs get to it.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Theo,

What kind of acrylic latex paint are you using??


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

That hook looks really good!

Ah the brand of paint doesn't really matter, right? I mean as long as it is suggested for long wear like the 10-yr and 20-yr latex's?

I am going to play around eventually with the Titebond II and dyes, then! This will be my own little scientific experiment.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

honesttjohn said:


> Theo,
> 
> What kind of acrylic latex paint are you using??


Red, bright yellow, dark green, dark blue, white, black. Hehehe With those I can mix any custom color I want. Except when tried to mix red and yellow, to get orange for my rifle stock, kept getting pink. Wound up buying a spray can of orange.

But if you are asking what brand, I don't know. The stuff seems to last me forever, and it's been so long since I bought any I forgot. But I do get the outdoor rated if it is available. Don't atually know, but feel it would last longer. Except for painting atop glued on paper patterns it holds up very well.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

That's what I was kind of referring to. What brand - or what to look for. I don't think all latex has acrylic in it.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

DerSchuhmacher said:


> That hook looks really good!
> 
> Ah the brand of paint doesn't really matter, right? I mean as long as it is suggested for long wear like the 10-yr and 20-yr latex's?
> 
> I am going to play around eventually with the Titebond II and dyes, then! This will be my own little scientific experiment.


No, the hook works really good, you spelled works wrong.

I just get what's available when I need it. Do try to get the best quality, but it all holds up well for anything I've used it on. I do try to get the outdoor type, but seeing as I only paint Tikis for outdoor use, shouldn't matter. My Tiki's paint did hold up very well tho, and my corporate Iggle still looks like the day it was painted. 

You can't call me an artist, but I will be making art. I got my two Easter Island head bank designs worked out. BUT, when I make them, I will also design a column for some of them to stand on, just like you would see in an art museum. If that isn't art, I don't know what is. LMAO
>

Oh, almost forgot. Here is my test cane, that I made years ago, and painted, with no finish of any type. It was just a very light coat, but mostly has held up pretty well, with some grime mostly, but it's used daily. The other picture is the other side of the same handle. Loads of wear on this side, but that is because the paper pattern was glued on that side, and painted over. Talked to the Titebond glue people, and they said if the glued paper had been sanded before painting, it might have held up better - however, they did not guarantee this. So next time I want to color glued paper I will use magic markers, then put a finish coat of thinned glue on that - should hold up then. Actually, I plan on ony painting 1, 2, or 3, of my personal cane handles, because I find it a bit of a PITA to paint them. Anyone else wanting a colored handle can do their own with magic markers, or get charged a chunk to get them done by me.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

honesttjohn said:


> That's what I was kind of referring to. What brand - or what to look for. I don't think all latex has acrylic in it.


Actually latex doesn't have latex. Hehehe I 

I researched before I stopped using oil base paint. That was long ago tho, and I think these two links will explain a whole lot better than I ever could. Very interesting I think. After using the acrylic latex for so long, and liking it, I will never willingly go back to oil base paint.
What is latex and acrylic paint? 
Latex paint vs oil based paint

Forgot. I don't keep the paint in the original cans. Instead I use straight medicine bottles. These are the type with a top that comes off after just a slight turn, not unscrew. They never 'weld' up the top - I started by using plastic soda bottles, after a few days the only way you could open a bottle was by cutting the top off, that is when I tried the medicine bottles, and they really work well. Hard to tell sometimes just what paint is in the bottle, especially with a custom blend, so I brush a bit of paint on the tops.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Further to the 'Latex' discussion, this subject came up last month I think(?) re painting fabric.
I mentioned then that the *art supply houses* carry a wide assortment of pure Acrylic coatings. These are in addition to the type an artist would use for doing a landscape on canvas for example...
https://store.opusartsupplies.com/sagro/storefront/store.php?mode=browsecategory&category=3
Just pointing out that there are other sources of paint than the BigBox and brand paint shops.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

The fabric paint I have seen is more expensive, and I don't see it as any better. I've never checked, but suspect they may be tha same types of paint. Sort of like buying anything called 'marine', it's automatically more expensive then the same think not not called 'marine'. 
And I have gotten paint from Big Lots, but they don't always have what I'm after.


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

True Dan, but we were talking about keeping the cost down, since artists paint is so expensive. At some point, I mentioned I had all ready bought the artist acrylics set and Theo was showing me how to save some good money in the future.

But now I understand why Theo doesn't remember the brand(s), using other bottles to store it in.

Just curious, Theo, why did you leave the pattern on the cane? And paint over it? Why not just have the pattern beside the cane or even pencil it in?

Oh, btw, thanks for the links!


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

DerSchuhmacher said:


> True Dan, but we were talking about keeping the cost down, since artists paint is so expensive. At some point, I mentioned I had all ready bought the artist acrylics set and Theo was showing me how to save some good money in the future.
> 
> But now I understand why Theo doesn't remember the brand(s), using other bottles to store it in.
> 
> ...


I keep the paints in those bottles because it is a whole lot easier to open them than it is cans. Keeps the paint at least as well as a can too. And I don't care what the brand is, as long as it is a high quality paint.

Hehehe Test cane, just like it says on the cane. One of my earlier canes, and wanted to see how well the paint held up over glued paper. Now all my paper patterns are only glued to my masters, and designs sketched on the cane handle. When I remember to do it, I will mix some paint with my Titebond, when I remember to buy some more, and go over the bad side of the cane, and see how that will hold up - a lot better than just the paint did I'm thinking. 

Ah yes, the links, had forgotten about them. You're welcome.

And, always remember. I don't recommend a thing, I just tell what has worked for me. Also remember, any paint you get on your clothes, you might as well figure on it being there until you toss them. That paint really works on fabrics.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

This just popped into my itty bitty head awhile ago. If you left the acrylic latex open for awhile it would likely thicken up, and probably be very similar to artist paint. Maybe even the same stuff. If I ever get back to painting pictures may just give that a shot.

I got to thinking where I bought my cans of paint. WallyWorld, before they stopped selling it. Big Lots. Sherman Williams paint store. A different paint store. Lowes. And one or two places I can't recall. Brand doesn't seem to matter, at least I can't tell the difference, as long as it is labeled acrylic latex, and I get exterior, not interior, paint, in case I want to paint a Tiki or iggle.


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