# How important is the Table Saw?



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I know this is router central on the web, but is the table saw really the center of action in a shop? 

I've been reviewing some of the early episodes of Woodsmith where they focus on the table saw and how to use it for a massive number of tasks and joints. One thing I do like about that show is they try to stick to a small number of tools, the things someone on a budget is likely to have. A router, of course is one of those tools, but the precision and control of a good table saw and a few good blades is easy to overlook.

It takes some care in setting up a saw, but holy cow, what a useful tool it becomes once you tune the heck out of it. Drawer making comes to mind. You can make a tight, strong joint assembling drawers in a few passes using accurate bars to space the cuts. 

Personally, the addition of a decent dado set, the full kerf glue line blade, and for fun, the 1/4-3/8ths blade pair, has made making things highly predictable and accurate. My saw is a Laguna Hybrid, 10 inch 110v model with 220 conversion available. 

What are your thoughts about your table saw. How have you used it? How important is it to your woodworking? What is the most complex thing you've done with it? What saw do you have? How do you like it? Are you thinking of upgrading in some way, what would you do? If you had endless cash, which saw would you get? General discussion, anything table saw goes.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It's the center of action in my shop. So important that I have 2 of them. The main one is a Unisaw. The backup is an old 10" Rockwell that is 2 hp and 220 volt. I changed the original fence to a Mule/Accusquare. Besides the regular sizing jobs - finger joints, dentil molding, tenons, lap joints, profiles using an old moulding head, dadoes, bevels, repeatable cut offs, and probably a few other jobs I can't think of.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Yup.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> It's the center of action in my shop. So important that I have 2 of them. The main one is a Unisaw. The backup is an old 10" Rockwell that is 2 hp and 220 volt. I changed the original fence to a Mule/Accusquare. Besides the regular sizing jobs - finger joints, dentil molding, tenons, lap joints, profiles using an old moulding head, dadoes, bevels, repeatable cut offs, and probably a few other jobs I can't think of.


yup...


----------



## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

The table saw is my most used machine in my shop. In close second is my band saw.


----------



## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Couldn't be without a table saw. I have two. Both Shopsmiths. One has the old Jointech Saw Train with router table (boy, do I wish they were still in business). It's a dedicated rip saw. The other one does the cross cuts, dadoes, etc. And, it powers all the Shopsmith accessory tools. 
As to blades, I finally found one that gives me a decent glue edge. Now, they are all I use on all my saws. Brand is Tenryu.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I recall that Sommerfeld has a table saw attachment that cuts perfect match joints for beaded face frames. They have another cutter for the TS that is for cove cutting. See pix. Here's the link to the catalog page: http://pubs.royle.com/publication/index.php?i=550263&m=26109&l=1&p=1&pre=&ver=html5#{%22page%22:16,%22issue_id%22:550263}

That catalog is really neat because it shows all kinds of cuttere, their names and profiles. I am happy with every one of that company's products so far.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Love my table saw . I had a contractors saw with a Bies fence , as I learned earlier on that the fence is extremely important.
My friend purchased a Delta contractors saw , and you had to lock the fence down,then tap it with your fist to get it square .
So I didn’t make that mistake and paid double lol. 

After joining the forum I learned about dust collection, so I sold my contractors saw and bought a General cabinet saw .
It has an Excalibur fence which is very similar to a Biesemeyer fence , but is a little more refined .
The face comes off and you add your own face if you chose , like a sacrificial section .
Below is a pic of the sacrificial fence section I built . Very handy when I built cabinets . 

Also I disliked my friends wobble dado, so I purchased a Freud dado . Was $340 here in Canada but well worth it to me . I believe by turning it’s adjuster you can change it four thousandth of an inch at a time.

Not pictured but I also installed a PC690 under the right wing at a later date , just to get me by till I assemble my router table . I don’t think you can have enough router tables anyways .


Strange , I can’t post imgur urls anymore 



https://imgur.com/gallery/auIxKeT


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

DesertRatTom said:


> I know this is router central on the web, but is the table saw really the center of action in a shop?
> 
> I've been reviewing some of the early episodes of Woodsmith where they focus on the table saw and how to use it for a massive number of tasks and joints.
> 
> What are your thoughts about your table saw. How have you used it? How important is it to your woodworking? What is the most complex thing you've done with it? What saw do you have? How do you like it? Are you thinking of upgrading in some way, what would you do? If you had endless cash, which saw would you get? General discussion, anything table saw goes.


I would say it depends on what you are doing/making. Right now the center of action for me is my router. 

This may change for me in the not so far future, at which time I will likely convert my HF saw into a disc sander, and get another saw for sawing. Got the HF saw in about 1996 or 7, and is still serving well, but starting to have some adjustment issues. Most complex thing with it is probably the complex saw sled I made and used on it - until I didn't need it, and recycled it. Wish now I had kept it, but it was taking up room I needed. I will upgrade, but don't need a really high grade saw, dunno what I would get, because my saw is still working for me. Decide later. Endless cash? No brainer, I'd get myself one of those bandsaw mills, one you ride on, rather than push. And to make it a table saw, I'd put a small table in front of the seat, so I could eat my lunch without leaving the machine. But with no endless cash, if I had more room, I would likely make/convert a saw to one that would be perfect for what I need. As is I did make a saw using an upside down sabre saw under a top, which works well for me.

Oops, almost forgot. Watched a Woodsmith episode the other day, in which they concentrated on the router and a shop made jig. Fascinating.


----------



## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Projects dictate my use of the table saw but I do have a radial-arm saw that I use quite often. Most of my projects now are small so I don't need the table saw very much. 

When I do use it I try to make sure I do everything on it that I need to so I can store it out of the way until needed again.


----------



## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Like anything else, it depends on what you do. If you are making large furniture, or working with a lot of sheet goods, a table saw is worth its weight. If you are making small things, you might be able to get by with a Miter Saw or RAS, bandsaw, and other tools.

I love my saw. It's my 3rd tablesaw, learning what I wanted from each of it's predecessors along the way. Right now I am working with my younger brother to find a saw for him, balancing features and budget. Hopefully something will come along soon. The worst thing would be him to buy a 'cheap' saw, and hate it. He might be able to get by with a RAS, but he has a lot of thin ripping jobs to do and he doesn't think he'll feel comfortable with that.


----------



## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

As noted above, I would not want to be without my TS, but over the course of most projects it may or may not have much of a role. Similar to other key tools, when you need one you need one. Just remember how to use it CAREFULLY.


----------



## Ed3443 (Jul 7, 2013)

I have a Jet 10" Super saw. It is under powered and has problems with adjusting the blade height. But I have a Incra 52" Fence system which is amazing. Love it. I use the table saw all the time primarily for around the house work. I am still very much learning--but my skills are getting better--much thanks to this forum. I would love to get a Sawstop Professional 3HP 52" with the large sliding table. If only I could convince my wife.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

kp91 said:


> Like anything else, it depends on what you do. If you are making large furniture, or working with a lot of sheet goods, a table saw is worth its weight. If you are making small things, you might be able to get by with a Miter Saw or RAS, bandsaw, and other tools.
> 
> I love my saw. It's my 3rd tablesaw, learning what I wanted from each of it's predecessors along the way. Right now I am working with my younger brother to find a saw for him, balancing features and budget. Hopefully something will come along soon. The worst thing would be him to buy a 'cheap' saw, and hate it. He might be able to get by with a RAS, but he has a lot of thin ripping jobs to do and he doesn't think he'll feel comfortable with that.


The old Rockwell I have was sold to me by a friend for $100. He wanted to upgrade. It it didn't come 220 to him then he converted it. The fence on them was usable but I already had a very good after market fence to put on it. The only real drawbacks on those old Rockwell saws was a fairly mediocre miter gauge and very little table behind the blade, both of which can be fixed. No matter what the saw is I recommend adding an outfeed table and if you need a good miter gauge there are lots of good choices. I see those old Rockwells for sale from time to time and they are usually reasonable. With the after market fence it really isn't that much less of a saw than my Uni and the Rockwell was $2000 cheaper (twenty something years ago price) even counting the fence upgrade.


----------



## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

I don't have a table saw yet. But I am "allowed" to buy one, and I'm leaning hard toward getting this little fella:
https://www.totaltools.com.au/power.../96293-dewalt-2000w-254mm-table-saw-dwe7491xe

The fence is connected at both ends, so is the best of what I've seen in this market so far. Most of the others I've seen (Makita, Ryobi etc) only connect at one end and allow a little play by the time you get to the other, which I want nothing to do with.

Also the fence can fold away out of the way if I need to cut sheet goods, and has a small er auxiliary fence also.
The blade seems to be a relatively easy size to source, so replacements/specific blades shouldn't be an issue.

Any thoughts folks?


----------



## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

I have an old el cheapo table saw I bought new many years ago & it served its purpose until I joined the Forum.Since then I've learned some of the finer points of woodworking & now know it's a real LEMON.Every task carried out with it makes life miserable.I thought if I sold my rifles I'd be able to afford a half decent saw but guns in Australia are almost worthless now since new ownership laws came in. So, I purchased a spanking new sliding miter saw with the money from the rifles,but know I still need a table saw. Oh well,Christmas is not far off. Jamesjj777746


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

1fizgig said:


> I don't have a table saw yet. But I am "allowed" to buy one, and I'm leaning hard toward getting this little fella:
> https://www.totaltools.com.au/power.../96293-dewalt-2000w-254mm-table-saw-dwe7491xe
> 
> Any thoughts folks?


It's hard to give feedback because the tools available are quite different in other parts of the world. This is not my favorite saw, in the USA. Here I would go for the Bosch 4100, but I'm not sure you have it in Oz. However, I think DeWalt has improved this saw since I last looked at it, and DeWalt is going for a hither end place in the tool world.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

kp91 said:


> Like anything else, it depends on what you do. If you are making large furniture, or working with a lot of sheet goods, a table saw is worth its weight. If you are making small things, you might be able to get by with a Miter Saw or RAS, bandsaw, and other tools.
> 
> I love my saw. It's my 3rd tablesaw, learning what I wanted from each of it's predecessors along the way. Right now I am working with my younger brother to find a saw for him, balancing features and budget. Hopefully something will come along soon. The worst thing would be him to buy a 'cheap' saw, and hate it. He might be able to get by with a RAS, but he has a lot of thin ripping jobs to do and he doesn't think he'll feel comfortable with that.


Doug, I find mine was invaluable when I tried building my first shelves and drawers , and I have many more to build once I’m done .
I sure learned a lot here ,as I’ve never had the know how or the confidence to do it in the past .


----------



## anndel (Aug 18, 2019)

Both the router and table saw are undeniably important in any shop. If I had endless mula, I would buy a Grizzly or Saw Stop Cabinet table saw.


----------



## spike1 (Sep 24, 2015)

For 1fizgig: Be careful with that ts you're hoping to buy. it should cost about $400 dollars unless it is on sale -then cheaper. I've had this beauty 10" DeWalt jobsite saw for 10 years. But the price stated on your link is WAY too high. Good luck.


----------



## qulevrius (Mar 18, 2019)

@spike1

He’s in Australia, I believe the price listed isn’t in USD.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

qulevrius said:


> @spike1
> 
> He’s in Australia, I believe the price listed isn’t in USD.


Correct, Australian dollars. Including the Australia tax we seem to pay on many things sadly. I won't have to pay quite that price though, as when Total Tools have an insider night I've been told I should be able to get a 20% discount.

It will still be more than the conversion rate at the moment, but that's the joy of buying imported US equipment. We just can't get it anywhere near as cheaply.


----------



## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Unless you're a gluten for punishment without a table saw you aren't going to be doing much traditional woodworking. I have two of them and could probably use another one. A router is a nice extra tool to have and there are times that it really comes in handy. But handy and needed are two separate things. You need to have a table saw or a radial arm saw, if you don't then IMHO you don't have a shop.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Spot on, Art. 
If you're young(er) and reasonably fit, you can do a lot of TS type operations with a circ.saw and various jigs and accessories, but it's not a lot of fun doing them that way, never mind the precision. 
Doing any amount of casework _without_ a TS is simply a royal p.i.t.a.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Spot on, Art.
> If you're young(er) and reasonably fit, you can do a lot of TS type operations with a circ.saw and various jigs and accessories, but it's not a lot of fun doing them that way, never mind the precision.
> Doing any amount of casework _without_ a TS is simply a royal p.i.t.a.


didn't a lot of us start out doing our case work w/ a CS and straight edge...


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

You betcha! And got fairly good at it.


----------



## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> It's hard to give feedback because the tools available are quite different in other parts of the world. This is not my favorite saw, in the USA. Here I would go for the Bosch 4100, but I'm not sure you have it in Oz. However, I think DeWalt has improved this saw since I last looked at it, and DeWalt is going for a hither end place in the tool world.


 @DesertRatTom, the problem outside of North America is that our markets are miniscule, we are metric, we have 220V mains supply (single phase, 380V three-phase). So we get models that are sold in UK and Europe. So, the Bosch equivalent of the 4100 is available ($900-odd US) as well as the DeWalt ($1000 US) . The problem for me is the UK/EU specification, of a 30mm blade bore. This means most (if not all) dado stacks are out, as well as the Freud box joint blades.
The Sawstop jobsite saw will take a dado stack, but costs the equivalent of $2250 US.

I have made do with a CS and RAS for 40 yrs, and mostly have not missed a TS, especially once I made a router table 30 yrs ago. I have a dado set and a moulding cutter head, largely replaced by the routers. But I was keen on the Freud box-joint blades. When they were launched here, they were surprisingly affordable, now of course they have rocketed (as our currency has plunged). I have made box joints on the RT, but the TS method struck me as more efficient and less dusty.

I must confess to never having laid claim to the degree of precision some of the members with Incra jigs take for granted. I am probably in denial about the imprecision of my joints.


----------



## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

mgmine said:


> Unless you're a gluten for punishment without a table saw you aren't going to be doing much traditional woodworking. I have two of them and could probably use another one. A router is a nice extra tool to have and there are times that it really comes in handy. But handy and needed are two separate things. You need to have a table saw or a radial arm saw, if you don't then IMHO you don't have a shop.


While I agree that machinery certainly makes some jobs easier, there is a place for traditional woodworking - that is woodworking without power tools.
Having said that, I'm a fan of power tools and they are an integral part of my woodworking journey at this time.
While I don't have a table saw, I do have a circular saw and compound sliding mitre saw, so it hasn't all been sweat and tears. But I do recognize what a table saw will help with also.
I've been able to get by just fine without until now, and while I don't claim to have a "shop", I have had no issues producing pieces of furniture with the tools I have.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I have a nice Triton track saw and think you could do pretty good case work with it, it is much easier and more accurate with the TS. When i started with woodworking instead of carpentry, the TS was what allowed me to move ahead.


----------



## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

I use rough lumber, regardless of the project. So for me the table saw is one of the "big 3" tools in my shop. The other 2 are the jointer and planer. Yes I have done my projects with hand tools, but as I get older it is just easier and quicker to use power tools. I have a track saw to break down ply, or large lumber that I can't control on the table saw. To help me with larger pieces, I have added a sliding table to the TS, and have two separate infeed tables to help with support when needed. An accurate table saw with a sharp blade is one of life's little pleasures.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Bob; if you haven't already, give plain old S4S 'white wood' a look. Many simple projects lend themselves to Spruce or Pine, if you can find decent quality near you. Up here it's all kiln dried and if the yard guys sre doing their job they'll make sure it stays covered with lumber wrap (the stuff it was wrapped with for shipping). A couple of weeks in a dry basement or your shop and it's good to go. Maybe not fine furniture, but shop shelving, drawer sides, bench framing etc.

Veeeery economical material!


----------



## qulevrius (Mar 18, 2019)

DaninVan said:


> Spot on, Art.
> If you're young(er) and reasonably fit, you can do a lot of TS type operations with a circ.saw and various jigs and accessories, but it's not a lot of fun doing them that way, never mind the precision.
> Doing any amount of casework _without_ a TS is simply a royal p.i.t.a.




True story. I’ve been using CS instead of TS since I sold my jobsite TS, and while it’s possible to produce passable results with simple jigs, a good TS would’ve saved me at least 1/2 the time. With that being said, I do believe that using the CS was a huge aid in terms of experience and creative thinking.


----------



## gdonham1 (Oct 31, 2011)

I have a Powermatic 66 and love it. If I were to buy a new saw I would get a SawStop. They have from contractor to cabinet models and have the added benefit of the safety from cutting your fingers off. 

For me the main tool in my shop starts with the table saw. If you want to route something you need to dimension the wood first. So your type of work is what you want to base your tools on. Some systems like the Festool track saw have tables and jigs to basically have a table saw. But if you buy all the accessories, tables, clamps and things needed to make a track saw a table saw why not buy a table saw. There are a bunch of newer track saws with a plunge saw that are quite good. But in the end it is up to your budget and what you are going to make in your shop. I dont think you will go wrong with a good table saw. By good table saw I mean not only a good saw but a good fence. Those little benchtop saws are ok for cutting 2x4 but the fences move around too much. So get a saw with a good T-Square type fence. If you project out the cost of a cheap saw over a medium price saw over 10 years there is not much difference per year. So do not get sucked into the economy of purchase but consider the economy over a longer period of time and buy the best you can afford.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I have a Laguna Hybrid TS. I think it cost about $1300. First one had a bowed wing, so Laguna said bring the saw in. They replaced it with a whole new saw that they'd set up for me, including using machined heavy steel straight edges. At the time I was looking at a cheaper brand, about half the price, but similar construction. I have never once regretted ponying up the extra for the Laguna, and know it will be working perfectly in a shop long after I'm gone. I also believe it's best to look at the cost over a long period of time. It also has an excellent fence, first rate, heavy duty. And even it's miter gauge is precise and works like a champ. I got the 36 inch table, but it was only about $125 more then to get the 54 inch capacity table. I just didn't have the space. I use the 110v motor, but it can convert to 220 if desired. The motor is a USA made unit, first rate. During research I found that Laguna insists all it's iron must rest for 6 months before being machined, so stresses are worked out prior to manufacturing parts. Very flat table has stayed that way.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

> I have never once regretted ponying up the extra for the Laguna


same here for so many other pieces of equipment...


----------



## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

> The problem for me is the UK/EU specification, of a 30mm blade bore. This means most (if not all) dado stacks are out, as well as the Freud box joint blades.


A good sharpening service can bore the blades to 30mm,or should be able to point you to someone that can.

I've had several 12" blades with 1" arbor holes bored out to 30mm to use on our panel saw at work.


----------



## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

ger21 said:


> A good sharpening service can bore the blades to 30mm,or should be able to point you to someone that can.
> 
> I've had several 12" blades with 1" arbor holes bored out to 30mm to use on our panel saw at work.


Gerry, 30mm blades are readily available (I use some with reducers on my RAS), but would you bore out a dado set or the Freud reversible box joint blades? I would hesitate.
I also am uncertain whether the arbor length would accommodate a dado stack on these saws - I think Sunnybob said EU rules say no dado stack, so the design may prevent such use, even if one could get the right bore.


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

My big table saw is a 70 year old 12" Darra James with 3/4" bore. It has its own peculiarities...

For example, Freud wants $32 a bore to oversize their 5/8" blades...makes it prohibitive to fit my dado set on it. For dado's I use my Bosch 4100...pretty much dedicated to that unless I break it down for off-site jobs. I just acquired an old Dewalt 10" RAS that is likely to become my dado cutter.

For big stock cross cutting or miters I use the miter or RAS (an older Craftsman 8 1/4)...it's tough to square the end of a 16'er on the table saw...the 12" SCSM is too bulky to throw around so I use a small 10".

For sheet goods I use the circular and straight edge exclusively, especially 1/2's and 1/4's. A flimsy piece of ply can become deadly if the TS blade gets underneath it...unless you like that arc you get on the bottom side when the top of the blade catches the bottom of the sheet and it throws the sheet sideways. When I use sheets for drawer pieces, I cut it down to size with the CS and straight edge and then miter saw or RAS to size the pieces. Off-site I use the CS and straight edge/square to cut down sheets for drawer pieces.

Since it does not have a riving knife I use a short fence (aux fence tied to the fence just inside of the cut)...it's especially useful making long thin stock that might otherwise twist after the cut. For this, I'd rather use the 4100 on the floor. One of my customers wanted continuous 1/4" trim around their two decks...so I anchored down the 4100 on the lawn and pushed a 2x12x16 through it to make the 1/4" trim pieces (a lot of them)... It worked so well I thought of building a table around the 4100 and use it for the shop saw...

Most important is using the right blade for the right job. If you want a finish cut you need a good finish blade...holds true for circular saw as well. You can't make good clean cuts, in sheet goods especially, if you attack it with a 24T demo blade. This means you must take the time to switch blades for quality cuts. You can't make clean cross cuts with that ripping blade...and vice-versa... Regardless whether you use the TS or other, it's the blade that does the job.

Equally important is the fence. You need to be able to trust it when you move it for different cuts. My DJ still has its original fence on it and it still moves accurately. I suppose I could move to an Incra or Beis'er but haven't had the need yet.


----------



## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

> Gerry, 30mm blades are readily available (I use some with reducers on my RAS), but would you bore out a dado set or the Freud reversible box joint blades? I would hesitate.


If you have a saw with a 30mm arbor, and you want to use those blades, then yes, why not?


----------



## dbur (Apr 10, 2010)

Yup. Nice place to mount the router as well. Don't have space for separate router tables.

Search 360cities.net for 'The Wood Shop' for full 360 view. (I'm not allowed to post urls yet)


----------



## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

I use a Craftsman 10 2 hp contractor saw embedded in a custom cabinet using a Incra 32TS fence. Incra is also used for the enclosed Router also. It has been extremely accurate fence as I can easily repeat cuts within 1/1000 of an inch.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Rogerv said:


> I use a Craftsman 10 2 hp contractor saw embedded in a custom cabinet using a Incra 32TS fence. Incra is also used for the enclosed Router also. It has been extremely accurate fence as I can easily repeat cuts within 1/1000 of an inch.


That is a sweet setup. Like the DC setup and the extra wide table. Having drawers likely keeps the dust down too. Love it.


----------



## J0seph (Dec 2, 2011)

The table saw was the center of my shop until I installed a 4 x 10 CNC router. I still use the saw, but much less.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

J0seph said:


> The table saw was the center of my shop until I installed a 4 x 10 CNC router. I still use the saw, but much less.


Pics of shop


----------



## Dan1951 (Mar 21, 2011)

*And the there are those with but little space*

Back about 10 years ago, when I first got into this hobby, my family presented me with a Craftsman portable contractor saw. At the time, I could occasionally claim part of the garage as my makeshift woodshop, so compactness and portability outweighed any other consideration. And, the saw punched above its weight on cabinet making and other projects.

A couple of years later, a house renovation got me a dedicated basement space of about 13' x 14'. Still too small for a new saw, so with all its shortcomings of size and accuracy, the little saw has soldiered on, and I've gotten reasonably proficient with hand tools to fill in where the saw has come up short.

Now we are planning a move to what will be a newly constructed home. Part of that move will be a 23" x 24" dedicated woodshop. Holy cow! I can't wrap my brain around all of that space, but I think that a real cabinet saw might be part of the process of filling it up with our favorite "stuff."

So, the table saw is important, and it can make many tasks much easier, but in my opinion, adversity can teach you that no single tool is absolutely essential to good workmanship.


----------



## pgwisn (Oct 31, 2014)

I seem to use my TS more than anything else, although turning bowls on the lathe has become a real passion, so I'd have to add hour meters to each to see what the truth might be!. 

I started in 1976 with an old, cast iron table, 10" Craftsman Contractors saw, a couple blades and an 8" dado set that cost me $50 used; added an outfeed table, and a large wing extension with a mounted plunge router in it, and a 52" Biesemeyer fence. 
I used that saw for everything: Outfitting two bicycle shops I owned in the 70s and 80s, cabinetmaking, kitchens, jigs for holding metal components when I was manufacturing custom weldments, ripping down slabwood from the Woodmizer bandsaw, box-making, holiday gifts, and many other items.

When we moved I gave that saw and an old bandsaw to a friend. When I started the addition to the new house and added a 24' x 30' shop to the back of the garage I bought a Grizzly G1022 contractors saw for $100 on Craigslist from a fellow who had just bought a SawStop (he hadn't even cleaned the blood from his injury off the Grizzly!). I replaced the bad switch, repaired the broken fence, tuned it up, and have used that for everything from building the shop, adding a deck and siding the house, garage, and shop, ripping wood for flooring, making custom window frames, all the trim and baseboards, and building cabinets for the addition and shop. 

While in SE Asia a couple weeks ago visiting family I got an email from a woodworking buddy who said he was at an auction and had bought me a new TS: an old McMinnville, TN made Powermatic 66. He said it wasn't being bid up, and he got it for $440. I have been doing tree work for him, and this is the second item he has given me in payment. The first was a 12" OMGA RN450 Radial Arm Saw.

I have a dedicated router table now, so the Powermatic will get a nice outfeed table set up for it, and the Grizzly will likely find a new home.


----------



## Jeff Speedster929 (Jul 15, 2018)

I use my table saw to cut pieces to size for the CNC. The three machines I use most in my shop are the table saw, CNC and Dust Collector.


----------



## Larry42 (Aug 11, 2014)

I think a table saw is for most things the ideal all around tool. It won't do everything but does many things well. Very good for ripping & dados. Good for cross cutting relatively short work, maybe up to 4'. With care it will cut nice coves with an angled fence. The "molding heads" they sell for them are a bad idea and an accident waiting to happen. The best of the lot have the chip limiting feature to make them safer. Unfortunately the typical guard, splitter, riving knife, anti-kick back pawls sold on consumer grade saws are usually a bad joke. The very best safety is obtained with a SawStop. Expensive but how you view that depends on the value you put on your hands. A cabinet saw has many advantages over the rest of them but is heavier, a bit larger and will cost in the range of $500-700 for a nice used one. Many have come on the market as schools and commercial shops have replaced their Unisaws & PM66s with the SawStop. I now have the SawStop 5hp Industrial model. A very nice saw. 

If you are intending to do much cabinet work and have the space, sliding table saws will cut sheet stock far better than a table saw. The add on systems they sell for putting on a cabinet saw may be OK, I don't have any personal experience with them. I do have a 35 year old SCM SL16 that has been an excellent saw. Be Safe!


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

My biggest space problem in my 12x24 shop is my sliding miter setup. I have to leave it at 45degrees in order to squeeze by it. I don't really use it much and it the number one dust offender, so I've given a bit of thought to getting it moved. Problem of course is only place it would work out is outside, and I don't think it will survive long out there during winter. It gets in the way of the TS as well. I would have to enclose a space for it and build a platform, something that would open up for use. Don't really want to to that, and moving it into the garage means having to walk 200 feet each way to use it for a quick cut. No solution in mind yet.


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Over the years, I've gotten to the point where there is nothing I can do with a table saw that I can not do equally as well with hand tools. With that has also come the realization that there is very little I can do with hand tools that I can't do quicker and more efficiently than with a table saw. 
In the end, its merely a matter of how one chooses to approach any given task. Over the years I have hand only a handful of requests for "made by hand" no power equipment involved. I take pride in being able to do it when requested, but for all practical purposes, use of a table saw eliminates alot of mundane tasks that otherwise
require an investment in time. 
Its a shame most folks don't appreciate that skill involved with hand made only projects. ahhh well, such is the world we live in.............


----------



## Ed3443 (Jul 7, 2013)

This conversation has been getting me to think about a new saw. I have been thinking about the Sawstop Professional model with 3hp 1ph 230v, and then thinking about the Sawstop Industrial model with the 5hp 1ph 230v since it is much heavier and I am so sick of having an under power saw. 5hp is probably overkill. But then there are the economics.... $2879 vs $4049 (3hp) or $4499 (5hp). I have also thought about the Grizzly G0623X - 10" 5 HP 230V Sliding Table Saw at $3375. I plan on doing a lot of work with sheet goods. My biggest reason to buy a new saw is that I am struggling with my current saw, underpowered, and I am worried about my fingers. This gets me leaning heavily to the Sawstop. On the other hand, I struggle with ripping sheet material all the time. I think the solution may be getting a track saw and the Sawstop. Thoughts?


----------



## Larry42 (Aug 11, 2014)

D R Tom, Have you considered making a lift of some sort to move your miter saw vertically, up to the ceiling? Boat winches are cheap, Horror Frt.

TwoSkies, I totally enjoy using my hand tools, BUT at my age, I'm running out of time and my "to do" list isn't getting any shorter. So I use whatever tool best fits the project at hand. I once had a woman ask "do you use tools to make those?" I was tempted to ask if I looked like a beaver. I've also had people off the far left deep end accuse me of being the blame for causing unemployment because my shop used a CNC router. I also note that on one of the candidate debates, one of the contenders complained about industry using automation and robots, hence reducing the # of people they employed. I'll bet that same person owned a factory made automobile. I'll bet that if 200 years ago there were table saws available, the master furniture maker would have used them in place of the apprentice (slave) labor.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ed3443 said:


> This conversation has been getting me to think about a new saw. I have been thinking about the Sawstop Professional model with 3hp 1ph 230v, and then thinking about the Sawstop Industrial model with the 5hp 1ph 230v since it is much heavier and I am so sick of having an under power saw. 5hp is probably overkill. But then there are the economics.... $2879 vs $4049 (3hp) or $4499 (5hp). I have also thought about the Grizzly G0623X - 10" 5 HP 230V Sliding Table Saw at $3375. I plan on doing a lot of work with sheet goods. My biggest reason to buy a new saw is that I am struggling with my current saw, underpowered, and I am worried about my fingers. This gets me leaning heavily to the Sawstop. On the other hand, I struggle with ripping sheet material all the time. I think the solution may be getting a track saw and the Sawstop. Thoughts?


I have a track saw and love it . Was going to build a panel saw until I learned of tracksaws .
I don’t have great luck getting accurate cuts breaking down sheets by myself on my tablesaw , so the tracksaw comes in very handy . 

If I could buy my tablesaw saw all over again I’d go with a 5hp SawStop , their industrial model .
I really like their dust collection hood over the blade , and bought their DC system but need to get it modified to fit mine .
My General cabinet saw is an impressive saw, but I like saw stops DC better. I don’t care for SawStops self destruct system if you touch the blade , but I guess it beats losing fingers . 
Wish they would implement something like Bosch’s safety system instead


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I like my track saw for breaking sheet goods down much better than trying to do it on my table saw, but once broken down, the table saw wins my heart. Two accessories make my table saw great: See pix Wixie digital angle finder and Woodpecker's jig to align miter track, blade and fence. Amazing how your work improves when you use these for setup.


----------



## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

qulevrius said:


> True story. I’ve been using CS instead of TS since I sold my jobsite TS, and while it’s possible to produce passable results with simple jigs, a good TS would’ve saved me at least 1/2 the time. With that being said, I do believe that using the CS was a huge aid in terms of experience and creative thinking.


There have been times that I have had to resort to a cs because my table saw was miles away. I had to do some creative thinking but it was actually desperate dangerous thinking. The cs saw was not designed to do cutting on anything but large pieces of wood. To think that you can get by without a table saw is like saying that you can get by with a hack saw to do coping work.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"...hack saw to do coping work."
_Hack_ saw? Did you mean back saw or coping saw?


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> "...hack saw to do coping work."
> _Hack_ saw? Did you mean back saw or coping saw?


fret saw???


----------



## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

My loving husband (and our daughter) went in on a table saw for me some years back; it was a craftsman. It rattled so bad it scared me. It was gone within a month (maybe two). But it was sold. My next one will be of a more "solid" build, and a great deal of plans I have, would cut much better on the table saw.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@OutoftheWoodwork On that band saw, do you need a 14 inch model or would something smaller, but not a toy, work for you? I have a 12 inch Rikon that I keep in the shop and use all the time. I keep a half inch Timberwolf blade in it for most things and have even managed to resaw with it. It is identical to the WEN saw pictured below. Bolts down, no plastic except for the knobs. It bolts down to a bench has a nice iron table and even has Carter-style roller guides. The WEN is about $100 less than the Rikon and I just don't see any difference inside or out. You can get blades and tires for either--they're interchangeable. Takes a 72 inch blade, which will wear out faster than the 93 and 105 inch blades on bigger saws. The stands are extra on both of them. I've ordered WEN stuff online and had it delivered locally for free (HD and WalMart). Both do come with a fence and small miter gauge. Picture sizes differm but machine actual size is the same.

Curious about what you're looking for?


----------



## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

@DesertRatTom Looks like the Wen has a light? I would say for the money, if they're comparable in quality, and they're gonna have some long life to both, I would say the Wen would be good. I guess I was thinking in the dinosaur days, where they weighed almost as much as a dinosaur. :lol: Thus the reason I was looking on Marketplace and Craigslist in hopes of getting one like the drill press I just got in August. It's from the 80's and weighs as much as a dinosaur *giggle* Ken will attest to that, after moving it a few times when Amanda was over.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Barb I’m Willing you my table saw. Now sure if the shipping is going to make it worth it though


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

OutoftheWoodwork said:


> @DesertRatTom Looks like the Wen has a light? I would say for the money, if they're comparable in quality, and they're gonna have some long life to both, I would say the Wen would be good. I guess I was thinking in the dinosaur days, where they weighed almost as much as a dinosaur. :lol: Thus the reason I was looking on Marketplace and Craigslist in hopes of getting one like the drill press I just got in August. It's from the 80's and weighs as much as a dinosaur *giggle* Ken will attest to that, after moving it a few times when Amanda was over.


These probably weigh in at 20 lbs or so at most. You guys have a HD nearby?


----------



## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Barb I’m Willing you my table saw. Now sure if the shipping is going to make it worth it though


But Rick, by the time I would be able to collect, I'll be in a Nursing Home on feeding tubes...


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

OutoftheWoodwork said:


> But Rick, by the time I would be able to collect, I'll be in a Nursing Home on feeding tubes...


The way my health is , maybe you’ll get lucky lol


----------



## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> The way my health is , maybe you’ll get lucky lol


Don't say that. You're gonna be here a while!


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

OutoftheWoodwork said:


> Don't say that. You're gonna be here a while!


Hope not lol


----------



## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Hope not lol


Not funnY :fie::crying:


----------

