# Anti-seize lube on planer knife screws?



## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

I'm getting a Ridgid R4331 Planer from Home Depot Saturday. The only consistent negative in the various online reviews is that the screws holding the knives in place tend to strip when it comes time to flip or replace them (the knives). I'm considering pulling them (the screws) at the onset one at a time and adding a slight dab of Anti-seize lube to make removal easier down the line. 

This stuff or similar:










Bad Idea?

GCG


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## argoknot (Dec 7, 2009)

Good idea. I've been using anti seize since the early sixties and still do today. It does what it's made to do.


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## crowie (Apr 14, 2011)

You can also use "copper grease" as an alternative for "anti sieze" plus it's way cheaper.
I use it on all hot engine parts & the wheel nuts; makes it heaps easier to undo things.
Remember you only need a little..
Cheers, crowie


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

crowie said:


> You can also use "copper grease" as an alternative for "anti sieze" plus it's way cheaper.
> I use it on all hot engine parts & the wheel nuts; makes it heaps easier to undo things.
> Remember you only need a little..
> Cheers, crowie


Here, there are 2 grades of that brand, silver and copper. One is for higher heat applications. I forget with one of the two that is... And of course, the writing is worn off both cans of mine from bouncing around the back of my truck.

Show how good it is, I put it on caulk plugs (short 3/8" allen screws) in eventer type horse shoes, throw them in the forge... and they still stay free. Very good stuff.

My question to myself when I saw this last night was is the threads seizing and stripping? Or is the screw "soft," in a head such as phillips, and that part of it stripping? If so, since you are going to have it apart that far, wouldn't it be a good idea to replace the screws, maybe with an allen head type screw, then anti-seize on that?


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> My question to myself when I saw this last night was is the threads seizing and stripping? Or is the screw "soft," in a head such as phillips, and that part of it stripping? If so, since you are going to have it apart that far, wouldn't it be a good idea to replace the screws, maybe with an allen head type screw, then anti-seize on that?


From the reviews I'd have to guess they're allen socket button head screws and the allen sockets are striping. I'll probably replace the screws. That's what one of the reviewers did. I won't know the size till I get it and I want to get good replacements (most likely from McMaster-Carr) so I hit the stock screws once to get me through till they come in.

Thanks all, I was just a little worried there might be a risk of the stuff getting slung off and contaminating the wood.

GCG


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

You can also use Maalox ( Antacid ) for a "anti sieze" lube.

===


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Interresting that this thread would come along today, wish I had known about the potential problem at the time I bought my Dewalt 735 planer. It has worked well and becaue I don't use it everyday it has not needed to have knives turned over until now. I wall milling some 2x4s yesterday, trying to make a clamping jig for edge jointing a table top, must have been something foriegn in the wood because this morning while milled the cherry wood for the top I noticed, for the first time, a coupld of very small ridges on the faces of the wood pieces indicating a chipped blade so, it is time to flip the knives, and due to the reviews about the screws ceasing up and stripping, I do have concerns and actually afraid to get it into it as I'm thinking that if even one of them strips out, I will probably have to send the planer back to the factory for repair. This will not only be a hassle, but very inconvenient not having a planer for several weeks, might have to buy a new planer, and if I do I will certainly remove the screws and use anti cease product before ever using the maching. However, I do know that I might get lucky and not have any problems but until I tear into it I must admit that I am inclined to just live with the planer as it is for the time being, the small ridges are such that they can be sanded out fairly easy I hope. Will have to see as the project goes along. I'm wondering how often this problem with changing knives occures, and what others have done when they encounter the problem and do indeed stripp the screws out????

Jerry
Colorado City, TX


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## 57759 (Apr 8, 2011)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> I want to get good replacements
> 
> GCG


Certainly, and we know very well in today's market there can be a wide range of quality. And being we're talking quality don't discount the other component, the hex key.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

SandburRanch said:


> Certainly, and we know very well in today's market there can be a wide range of quality. And being we're talking quality don't discount the other component, the hex key.


Good point - I have a very good set SAE & Metric. Hex keys that come with tools and such I usually classify under the category of "loseables".

GCG

P.S. - However in this case there is a dedicated T-handle with a magnetic strip for removing and replaceing the knives and it has it's own home on the planer.


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Having worked at a tool and equipment rental store for 42 years, we had many problems with removing the bolts that hold the blades in large brush chippers. the solution is " Anti-Seize"! Be careful to only put it on the threads and not to get it on the blades or the wedge blocks. Also use 8 grade bolts if possible and torque them according to what the bolt manufacturer says. The bolts will come out easily later, even after a long time. Last suggestion is not to get it on your hands...it will imbed into your fingerprints and you may find it on your nose or anything else you touch. It washes off with mineral spirits.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Jerry, most of the people who are having threads strip out are not following the instructions on tightening the screws. They are applying too much force because they are worried the screws will come loose. A hex or Allen wrench applies many times the force that a screwdriver does. Once the screw stops turning it just needs a slight pressure to snug it properly. If there is room to insert the long leg of the wrench use just your thumb and index finger tip to tighten it; if you have to use the short leg of the wrench then only apply pressure with your pinky finger. I like to use a product called Vibra-tite VC3 as a thread locker. This is a non hardening, easily adjustable product. A tiny dab on the screw and it locks the thread in place. You can easily remove the screw to change blades and then reinstall it; the VC3 will reset. This is the best product I have found to prevent screws from loosening with vibration. Cost is about $17 for a one ounce bottle which should last you many years.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Mike,

So Mike. At first I read your post and it seemed so off the wall, but then I thought about it and it made sense. I think I know what you are talking, but want to make make sure it's clear to both myself and other's. You are not recommending that someone put thread locker in an application that is "known" to stick and strip the heads on, right? You are rather telling people to use a vibration resistant type thread coating, to prevent the backing out of such screws. (Yes I have foot-pound and inch-pound torque wrenches.

What I'm trying to compare what you said to the 3 grades of thread locking types of coatings I use most, where they are blue, red, purple. The purple doesn't actually lock a thread, but adds enough to keep it from shaking lose. My planers have this on there planer knife screws when it came new.

Another thing that helps me is alcohol or mineral spirits. Lots of times, with pines and firs, even though the wood didn't seem so- PITCH. I get some pitch even with oak, alder, maple, spruce, hemlock, cedar, juniper, yew, etc (you get the point). I have acid brushes I keep handy to paint on a little mineral spirits or alcohol to soften/dissolved the pitch.

Jerry-

All depends. Some times staples will knick a planer blade. You can look close, but sometimes they'er broken off in the wood. Other things- sand pocket in the wood. So a regular thing, sometimes yes or sometimes not. I seem to go in runs. I have a couple sets that I rotate through. I resharpen mine. That extra set keeps me going until I have a chance for that.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

You have the concept Mike. People have problems from over tightening the small screws. Vibra-tite VC3 is not like the anerobic thread lockers such as Loctite; it is a different type of product that acts like a sticky surface to prevent the screws from loosening on their own but is easily overcome with a screwdriver or wrench. I have used this on everything from the small allen screws that level my routers mounting plate to 1-1/2" diameter bolts and it works like a charm. Instead of solvents you should try the Trend Tool and Bit cleaner. It does a great job removing pitch and rust and leaves a protective finish; about $11 a bottle from Woodcraft and other distributors.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

You (and others) keep mentioning "Trend Tool and Bit Cleaner" for various uses. Maybe next time I drive north 3 hours, I'll have to drop into Woodcraft...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Buy Trend Tool and Bit Cleaner at Woodcraft


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## TomB19 (Jun 27, 2011)

I believe part of the problem is different alloys between the cutting head and screws creating galvanic corrosion. Anti-seize will help with this. I think it's a good idea.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Tom, the real problem is people over tightening small diameter hardened steel screws into mild steel.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Mike said:


> Tom, the real problem is people over tightening small diameter hardened steel screws into mild steel.


Are you saying that they were over-tightened at the factory? ...And people continue to think they need to keep them so tight? Because hand power planer and bench planer cutter head blade screws seem the tightest out of the box... And cutter heads are not made from mild steel. 

BUT-- The Ridgid R4331 Planer is not known for pulling threads or striping threads in the blade screws or holes in the cutter head. The OP said that the allen socket head screws are stripping in the sockets of their heads.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Mike, it is a common thing for screws to be tightened with air tools at the factory. Most of the time factory air drops do not have regulators to hold the pressure at 90 psi max, at least that has been my experience. For hardened screw heads to strip out the screws must be defective.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Mike said:


> Mike, it is a common thing for screws to be tightened with air tools at the factory. Most of the time factory air drops do not have regulators to hold the pressure at 90 psi max, at least that has been my experience. For hardened screw heads to strip out the screws must be defective.


Got it.

So that's why it's easier to take them out when new and treat them with a little pre-emptive PM. Better then than say, to wait until after you use it, throw in some heat and pitch... 

I applaud the Op for his foresight.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> I applaud the Op for his foresight.


Wish I could accept that fine compliment but it's more like hindsight. I've work in or with industrial maintenance for the majority of my working career. Never just take something out of the box and throw it on the line. You're just beggin' for a 2:00 AM call.

GCG


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Allow me to redirect the topic to the 'other' reason for my OP, ... contamination.

I was basically confident of the mechanical merit of anti-seize type products in general. I was unsure, however, of the possible contamination risk to the wood from excess product that may be left on the surface of a cutter head turning at 9,000 RPM. 

GCG

P.S. BTW ... I have the planer now and I loosened and reseated the knife screws and ran a few boards through. Very nice.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> Allow me to redirect the topic to the 'other' reason for my OP, ... contamination.
> 
> I was basically confident of the mechanical merit of anti-seize type products in general. I was unsure, however, of the possible contamination risk to the wood from excess product that may be left on the surface of a cutter head turning at 9,000 RPM.
> 
> ...


(All that red oak you have...) Running a sacrificial board through first and anything there should be wiped clean in the first inch or so.

So now you have stock done for your router fence?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

_"You can also use Maalox ( Antacid ) for a "anti seize" lube."_
-Bobj3

You've got to wonder about the first guy that discovered some of these ummm, less than obvious solutions. I know necessity is the mother etc., but some of these problem-solvers are pretty strange...
Having said that, if our tomato plants start showing signs of 'blossom end rot' they get a dose of Alka Seltzer.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> (All that red oak you have...) Running a sacrificial board through first and anything there should be wiped clean in the first inch or so.


Cool .. minor issue



MAFoElffen said:


> So now you have stock done for your router fence?


Almost. Everything is at thickness, and at correct width , need to cut to length. Then I need to scope out the best path to drill and route the holes and slots which I'm probably over thinking but I need to get it right so I don't have to redo any of it.

Guess I should update that topic, huh?

GCG


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