# New Jig Templates



## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

I’m making a new jig and I’m at the stage where I cut the required acrylic templates. To prove that my jig will work, I’m experimenting on my table top which I will replace including the templates I’m making now in smaller scale.

As per attached pics each template has 2 hairlines to indicate the “x” and “y” centers and a slot in the center for a 5/8” guide bushing.

I have two problems: 

One is only aesthetic and it’s on the edge where the saw blade passed; the saw’s blade edge is nice and smooth but on one of the flat surfaces next to the blade the acrylic is chipped like when we cut plywood and get the surface splinter. I don’t remember if it is the upside or downside that splinters. I did my cuts in 2 passes. Is this because of my blade or should I have put masking tape or it’s always happens when you cut acrylic?

The other problem is more critical; it seems that I can’t get the slot in the center of the hairline. Is this because of my limited experience? Am I missing some special tools? Is there a trick? Any advice?

Thanks
Nicolas


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Nicolas,

What type of blade are you using?


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Carbide tip with 60 teeth 

Nicolas


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

kolias said:


> I’m making a new jig and I’m at the stage where I cut the required acrylic templates. To prove that my jig will work, I’m experimenting on my table top which I will replace including the templates I’m making now in smaller scale.
> 
> As per attached pics each template has 2 hairlines to indicate the “x” and “y” centers and a slot in the center for a 5/8” guide bushing.
> 
> ...


As an engineer I cut a lot of acrylics. It was the back of the blade that chipped the finish. One way to solve the problem is to rough cut with an abrasive disc and finish with a mill or plane


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nicolas

Here's a small tip that works for me, put on some sand paper on the saw blade..
But I'm sure we will have some that will say that's it's to dangerous but it works for me..

One more tip that I use to clean up the chip off edge , a good heat gun or a propane torch but with care.

"hairlines" , that comes with time  and knowing your tools...


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kolias said:


> I’m making a new jig and I’m at the stage where I cut the required acrylic templates. To prove that my jig will work, I’m experimenting on my table top which I will replace including the templates I’m making now in smaller scale.
> 
> As per attached pics each template has 2 hairlines to indicate the “x” and “y” centers and a slot in the center for a 5/8” guide bushing.
> 
> ...


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## mountaindew (Nov 30, 2008)

A zero clearance throat plate on saw table helps.

A good saw blade with a negative hook will also cut plastic better.

A good acrylic / solid surface saw blade will do an even better job!

And for best results oversize the the work piece and then use a joiner or a router to finish mill edges to desired size!
hth
MD


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Thanks for the tips

Sand paper on the saw blade? not enough experience for me right now.

Regarding the “hairlines” although I’m careful, I figured that it must be the experience that counts. Next ones will be much better

Nicolas


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## Rob1 (Mar 6, 2009)

sandwich the acrylic between scraps of plywood or particle board, also try taping the edges, and cut slow and steady.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Having a good sharp blade helps, and I use an 80 tooth 10" blade to cut acrylic. All I do is touch the edge lightly with fine sandpaper to remove any burrs.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

I cut two more templates today and I think it also depends on the speed you push the acrylic thru the blade and the height of the blade.

If I go slow, the acrylic melts and accumulates on the teeth and chips the surface.

If I set the blade just to score the acrylic and then on the second pass go right thru, it chips the surface too. If I set the blade to go 3/4 of the thickness and on the second pass go right thru it's ok.

At least that's my experience

Nicolas


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