# Routing 6061 Aluminum HELP!



## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Hey guys and gals,
I want to make a template, or jig, out of aluminum, essentialy a stair routing template. I have made them out of wood before, many times, but I want to try something more durable. I'd like to try my hand at routing an aluminum template out of 1/2" 6061 stock and am looking for ANY advice I can get....

Thanks!


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

First off, it will make a mess.LOL I have never router a piece that thick, you will probably have to do it in small increments of depth. 
You will probably be using a template and a bushing and hand held router. years ago when I worked in a machine shop, they did it all the time making aircraft parts and had to use a liquid coolant on the bit and a spiral bit, can't remember if it is up or down spiral. 
Someone will be along with all the information soon.
Also the type/grade of material matters a lot,some machines better than others.

Herb


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

my best advice is buy one already made.

Or go to a machine shop, because youre bound to screw up once, and unless you have free access to the ali, your money and time spent will make it a very expensive jig.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I've routed aluminum but fairly thin . You need to cut out the majority of the material as close as you can to the size needed , then have a router bit guided by an mdf template to take off the rest . Have someone spraying wd40 as the bits routing out the aluminum


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

sunnybob said:


> my best advice is buy one already made.
> 
> Or go to a machine shop, because youre bound to screw up once, and unless you have free access to the ali, your money and time spent will make it a very expensive jig.


No free access here, but nothing ventured, nothing gained. Yes, I will be using a hand held router, a Porter Cable 7518, single speed so it might be the 19, I can't remember. Part of it is to save money, buying one is crazy expensive, and part of it is simply learning to do it myself, and actually doing it myself. Make one, figure out how it goes, that opens the door for next time. I don't want to be afraid to try, hell, I don't want to be afraid of anything. Fear is my enemy. Wisdom is my friend.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

...for cutting slots in closed stringer...? or to set step and riser...?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Nickp said:


> ...for cutting slots in closed stringer...? or to set step and riser...?


That is a good question, and difference in making the template. I just ass-ssumed it was closed stringer. Another question is how long will this template be,for how many treads and risers? Will it be adjustable for different runs and rise? Hmmmm so many variables........

Maybe do a mock up in Baltic Birch plywood?

Herb


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

It's for housed stringers, so it will route out the run with nosing, and the riser. It will also include the space needed for stair shims. No baltic birch necessary, I have made these before but always out of plywood. There is no rise/run, or pitch, it's simply one tread and riser. I clamp it down, route and then move it to the next step and repeat. The rise/run is set by the angle that the template is clamped to. The real question remains, practical advice on routing aluminum.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Jack Wilson said:


> It's for housed stringers, so it will route out the run with nosing, and the riser. It will also include the space needed for stair shims. No baltic birch necessary, I have made these before but always out of plywood. There is no rise/run, or pitch, it's simply one tread and riser. I clamp it down, route and then move it to the next step and repeat. The rise/run is set by the angle that the template is clamped to. The real question remains, practical advice on routing aluminum.


Yup...got it...mine is plywood also...aluminum sounds like a great idea but thinking you might need liquid coolant and slower speed...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Nickp said:


> Yup...got it...mine is plywood also...aluminum sounds like a great idea but thinking you might need liquid coolant and slower speed...


The second best car audio installer in North America (The FishMan) routes aluminum all the time . Exactly as I described it


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

From ground zero? (You don't want to hear this).
I rout, saw and drill aluminum nearly everyday.
Up to ~ 7/8, using ordinary woodworking tools with extraordinary fixturing.
This piece has 1/4", 3/8" + 1/2" material in it.
******************************************************************
Would I recommend an attack? Hell no. There are way too many surprises.
Fearless or not, inside and outside cuts on 1/2" material is dangerous business without priors.
It is not like wood or plastic. The cutter traction in aluminum is unlike any other material.
It has to routed in stages and there is always some climb cutting.
Maybe get your feet wet with the intricacies of the templet first.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Does it really need to be 1/2" thick Jack? Thinner is always easier.


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Chuck, in a word, yes. I guess I'll tackle it head on. At this point my plan is to go at it with a bushing and a 1/4" bit and some oil, then I'll go back at it with a top bearing bit to clean up the edges and bring to a true dimension.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Yup...got it...mine is plywood also...aluminum sounds like a great idea but thinking you might need liquid coolant and slower speed...


air cooling works and lots more DC....


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Dc?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DC... Dust Collect in this case a serious shop vac...


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