# Yet another way to mount a router light



## 48394 (Oct 25, 2010)

Here's my first attempt at using the guide rod mounts to light up the workpiece under the router bit.
The 14 led flash light is held by a simple hardware store clip. That, in turn is held by a rare earth magnet epoxied to a 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum bar. The bar is inserted into a 1/8" x 3/4" mortise in a 3/8" wood dowel rod held by the clamp screw of the guide rod mount. This approach is best used for spotting the router bit on the workpiece target and then removing the light bar assembly before actually making the cut.
Certainly not in Harrysin's class of lighting but a utilitarian and inexpensive approach that used stuff around the shop. The flashlight at$5 was the high ticket item.
Regis


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## jdebott1 (Nov 28, 2012)

I like that. Looking at using Harry's LED router plate, but will give this a quick tryout.

Thanks for posting.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

Regis

That is neat and adjustable too.

Al


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## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

This is simple and effective. Thanks for Sharing this idea.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Reg66 said:


> Here's my first attempt at using the guide rod mounts to light up the workpiece under the router bit.
> The 14 led flash light is held by a simple hardware store clip. That, in turn is held by a rare earth magnet epoxied to a 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum bar. The bar is inserted into a 1/8" x 3/4" mortise in a 3/8" wood dowel rod held by the clamp screw of the guide rod mount. This approach is best used for spotting the router bit on the workpiece target and then removing the light bar assembly before actually making the cut.
> Certainly not in Harrysin's class of lighting but a utilitarian and inexpensive approach that used stuff around the shop. The flashlight at$5 was the high ticket item.
> Regis


Now that I like Regis, other than it can't be used when the router is ski mounted, is using a side fence, my type of circle jig or router support, but for anyone not using these items I give you 10 out of ten, that's thinking outside of the box.


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## 48394 (Oct 25, 2010)

*Version 2.0*

Hi Harry,
Thanks for the very kind remarks on the dowel mounted light bar. Yes it is useless when the guide rods are in use so I'm working on V 2.0. It's a gooseneck design mounted to a guide rod outside of the router base. A small sketch is attached. All went well with the build but the epoxy failed on the guide rod locking nut. I know it should be brazed or at least soldered, but that will require an all new build. I'll try to salvage this one with a stronger epoxy and more of it.
Regis


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Unlike mine which are mounted on the router body and so the focal point varies as the router is plunged (which with a wide beam torch is OK), if you mount it on the BASE it can be fixed, no need for any adjustment Regis.


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## 48394 (Oct 25, 2010)

Harry,
The salvage attempt with epoxy was a dismal failure. 
Even though I risked incinerating the wood dowel bushing I was finally able to solder the clamping nut to the tee and make a succesful light mount to a guide rod as you can see in the photo. The standard propane torch was too much fire power. The solution was the use of my wife's Creme Brulee torch. 
Your advice on a base mount was well taken but it would have meant remaking the guide bar bridge on both the Elu and Festool jigs and abandoning the work to date. In the end this one turned out pretty well. It should also work on a skies application
Short lengths of the flexible stainless gas connection tubing are no longer available and the longer lengths are pricey. The next try, V3.0, will be an attempt to make the curved mast from soft copper tubing with all the joints soldered rather than epoxyed.
Regis


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## 48394 (Oct 25, 2010)

*Router light mount V 3.0*

Harry,
Here's Version 3.0 shown mounted on the Festool 8mm guide rod and no interference with the Harrysin circle cutting jig. V 3.0 would also work on a ski mounted application. In this one, the mast is 3/8" OD soft copper tubing. A very short, ~7/16", length of 1/2"OD tubing is used as a bushing in the 1/2" ID copper tee. The curved leg is soldered into the tee and bushing. A 10-24 brass nut is soldered onto the end of the mast and the clip is attached with a short 10-24 machine screw and lock nut. Simlarly a 10-24 brass nut is soldered onto one leg of the tee to allow clamping to the 8mm guide rod. I tried a nylon screw but it stripped under the force required to hold the light in position.
V 3.0 is a bit more difficult to make than V 2.0 but it is more compact. Bending the mast requires a spring bending tube. The soldering is much easier with a butane culinary torch. The wood dowel bushings in the tee don't have to fill the length of the long leg of the tee so it's not necessary to bore out the stops inside the tee. They are epoxyed in place before throughboring to the guide rod diameter.
Regis


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## Ranger1 (Dec 13, 2012)

Some nice ideas there guys, thanks.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Regis you've cracked it, that one is PERFECT.


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