# Wood shop interior finishing ideas



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I thought I would start a thread for members who would like to share there ideas for finishing the inside of their shops .

I am trying to decide which material would be best to use on my inside walls and ceiling.

3/4” plywood is far to expensive to use on all the walls and ceiling , and I’m not a huge fan of OSB . Drywall is one of the more inexpensive options,but not nail or screw friendly when you’d like to attach something to a wall .

My detached garage/wood shop is 22’x26’, with a 10’ ceiling. I was debating on using 1/2” drywall on the ceiling , and also on the 22’ wall with the man door and the main garage door. 
Then using 13 sheets of 3/4” plywood on the 26’ side walls . The bottom 2’ could be covered in drywall , as I won’t be securing anything down there anyways . There’s also a 2’ high concrete wall on the 26’ side for the first 9 feet . 

My next concern . I’m going to blow insulation in the ceiling , so I’m wondering if 1/2” drywall will have enough support , or will it eventually start to buckle and look tacky? 
I also want to secure 8 fluorescent light fixtures to the ceiling , so I thought using 1/2” OSB on the ceiling would make securing light fixtures a lot easier , plus maybe resist buckling .
I could always add 2x4’s between the 2’ spaced ceiling trusses for added support , as there inexpensive and would give drywall more areas to secure to if I went that route


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

I cut 1/2" MDF into 5" wide strips, chamfered the edges, and nailed them on like siding. I put a biscuit in between each stud for extra support. It's a lot more durable than drywall, and looks really good when painted.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

ger21 said:


> I cut 1/2" MDF into 5" wide strips, chamfered the edges, and nailed them on like siding. I put a biscuit in between each stud for extra support. It's a lot more durable than drywall, and looks really good when painted.


Not sure how feasible that is, but it would sure be easy for a single person to install it that way. 
They used mdf in our office . Full sheets and Chamfered the edges ,and it looks pretty good actually.
Your installing a biscuit . I’m assuming your not glueing them in , and the sections can be taken apart? 
Was this done on the ceiling also, or just the walls? 
Btw ,do you have any pics you could share 

I should mention , I have a Dewalt Biscuit joiner ,and have a Festool domino joiner that I’ve never used . I could see where dominos may work in this application to


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## mimac (Dec 13, 2009)

Drywall on the ceilings; 5/8 fireguard. It's plenty rigid. I'd use 1/2 " plywood on the walls, probably just the top 4 feet and 1/2" drywall on the bottom as bottom cabinets don't require tons of holding area. OSB smells bad and probably off gases like crazy.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

mimac said:


> Drywall on the ceilings; 5/8 fireguard. It's plenty rigid. I'd use 1/2 " plywood on the walls, probably just the top 4 feet and 1/2" drywall on the bottom as bottom cabinets don't require tons of holding area. OSB smells bad and probably off gases like crazy.


I was also thinking 5/8 would be an improvement over 1/2. 3/4 is a bear to work with at my age , but tempting


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I used 7/16 OSB walls and ceiling and gave both at least 2 coats of white paint. Besides being able to nail anywhere on a wall I don't have to worry about knocking holes in either one. I screwed the florescent lights into the ceiling joists but the OSB would probably have held them.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

5/8ths drywall on the ceiling. Don't forget to put radiant barrier under the roof sheathing, then insulate. I agree half inch drywall on the bottom 4 ft, Wall plugs set just above that. Wire the ceiling before you put up the drywall so you have plugs over your work areas and where your filter hangs. I used wire shelving for one major storage area. You can mount the posts into the studs with long screws. Make sure they are all level. You can adjust the shelves to suit any type of storage you want. I have a lot of stuff stored on two shelves in matching plastic boxes with covers. They nest nicely and come in two depths. I write the contents on the espoxed end with a marker.

do not put shelving in the bottom 12-16 inches from the floor, it will make it much easier to clean the joint out. Color code your electrical circuits so you can visually avoid plugging two tools into the same circuit. Use 2 gang boxes for four outlets at each box. 

I would use a thinner ply, no more than half inch on the walls. I have one 24 foot wall that is covered with quarter inch pegboard. This is very handy and visible so I know what little items I have on hand, so I don't keep buying goodies I already have. 

No open cabinets if you can help it. Doors keep the sawdust out, and you can make ultra simple enclosures for your wire racks too.

If you're using R13 or blow in a 2x4 wall, put radiant barrier in behind the insulation. If your garage has a peaked roof, you should probably put an exhaust fan in, with an access hatch near it, and that means having vents that feed fresh air into the attic.

Paint the floor with some tough stuff. Makes cleanup a little easier. Put good seals on all the openings, doors, windows. I have cheapo windows on my shop shed, so I covered them with 2 inch insulating foam. Don't get the sunlight, but don't get the heat and cold either.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

I have 1/2" drywall on the ceiling, probably should have been 5/8" fire-rated, but it's been almost 30 years now and no problems - and 14" of blown-in insulation hasn't caused any problem either. Walls are 7/16" OSB, other than iffy re fire code, depending on your location, it's IMO one of the better ways to go for the reasons that others have stated. One thing I wish I'd done differently would have been to surface mount my receptacles - conduit is CHEAP, and easy to work with, and the added benefit of being able to easily move/add outlets is priceless as your shop layout WILL change over the years. 4x10 OSB sheets seem to be readily available here at Lowes - not sure about God's country up there, but I would think it would be too - about $8 for an 8', $10 for a 10" sheet - so no need to fool with patching in drywall. A note - OSB seems to have a glossy side, and a "porous" side - and the sheets are marked "This Side Out" - make sure that you put the glossy side out where you're going to paint. You're talking 24 sheets, if I did the math correctly, so rent an airless sprayer - the kind you stick in a 5 gal bucket and paint houses with - and cut out all the hard work - some cheap plastic taped around the floor and you can probably paint the whole place in 4 hours. The paint is definitely worth the effort as it brightens the place up, a big plus, but don't go glossy, I like semi-gloss, YMMV.

As an aside, I started attaching the OSB to the studs with a hammer and ring-shank nails which seemed to be taking forever, about halfway over I switched to 1-1/2" narrow-crown staples - the way to go, and the brand I use has some kind of heat-activated adhesive on the legs which is supposed to melt from the friction and then "glue" the legs of the staples into the wood to make them harder to pull out - seems to work as it's a bear when I've tried to take anything apart.


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

Rick, Norm Abrams had an episode of NYW where he installed ply to his shop walls etc. Could be handy for you to watch if you can find it but probably 20 plus years ago. 
Also,what DRTom said about "put radiant barrier in behind the insulation" is great advise & used frequently down here in OZ. Good luck with your project, James.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

I closed off a section of the basement that is supposed to be a garage. I put OSB on the walls. Should have painted it before I put everything in place. That's on my list.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Knothead47 said:


> I closed off a section of the basement that is supposed to be a garage. I put OSB on the walls. Should have painted it before I put everything in place. That's on my list.



Me too :crying:


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

You need to put the insulation in the walls and ceiling before even thinking about what to cover them with.

Charley


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Using external electrical conduit is a really nice idea for a shop. Wish I'd done that.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DesertRatTom said:


> Using external electrical conduit is a really nice idea for a shop. Wish I'd done that.


It’s real tempting. I think I’ll just have a lot of outlets installed , as I pretty much know where things will be . I’ll have a few extra 240V added though .
Also need a 6 gauge feed for a 2 stage compressor


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## Danman1957 (Mar 14, 2009)

Chuck, I second that motion, My shop is also 7/16th OSB and when I bought this house the whole garage was painted a dark brown !!! WOW what a mess, I used a good quality latex paint and primer combined and gave it 3 coats and it is nice and clean now and bright. My lights are 8ft fluorescent and also joist mounted as well as my General air filter.

Brian I don't understand your comment about the OSB, I sell into all the OSB mills and have used the product for years and never noticed a smell. I used to build storage sheds every summer about 30 or so for many years and always used OSB.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Danman1957 said:


> Chuck, I second that motion, My shop is also 7/16th OSB and when I bought this house the whole garage was painted a dark brown !!! WOW what a mess, I used a good quality latex paint and primer combined and gave it 3 coats and it is nice and clean now and bright. My lights are 8ft fluorescent and also joist mounted as well as my General air filter.
> 
> Brian I don't understand your comment about the OSB, I sell into all the OSB mills and have used the product for years and never noticed a smell. I used to build storage sheds every summer about 30 or so for many years and always used OSB.


I can't say I've ever noticed a smell either Dan. Once painted white I barely notice that that the walls are covered with OSB. I put vapor barrier on the ceiling first and I covered the cracks between joists with 1/4 to 3/8 thick strips. One of these days I'll get around to putting on the ones that run with the joists but that part can't leak air so I haven't considered doing that enough of a priority yet.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DesertRatTom said:


> Using external electrical conduit is a really nice idea for a shop. Wish I'd done that.


My electrician recommended that. I’m just not sure about it ,as I’m not liking the idea of having a conduit in the way around my garages perimeter. Especially when I need to secure my clamp racks to the wall and there’s this conduit interfering

However I do like your idea of having four outlets in each box


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## tulowd (Jan 24, 2019)

Couple of comments, unless of course you have already done this:

1) Whatever you use, make sure it's painted white, so you have maximum light reflection; have never been in a shop with dark walls that didn't seem needlessly dim, especially near the walls. Our old eyes also function better in high contrast situations.

2) Drywall is a fire barrier, even if it's not fire rated. Anything wooden is going to be kindling.

3) For mounting cabinets etc, framing up the wall with appropriate 2x4's is easy peasy once you have designed the setup.

4) Totally true about the insulation and vapor barrier being done before the final wall cover material needs to be worried about.

5) Drywall anchors (look like a baby corkscrew) that shoot in with a #2 Phillips bit and look like a big e z threaded insert work awesome and are a snap to put up, no drilling needed.

6) Drywall will quiet the room and transfer less noise to the outside / into the house.

Post up some pics of your kingdom mon ami. 

Happy Canada Day to you tomorrow.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"6) Drywall will quiet the room and transfer less noise to the outside / into the house."
-Paul

Excellent point, Paul!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> "6) Drywall will quiet the room and transfer less noise to the outside / into the house."
> -Paul
> 
> Excellent point, Paul!


When they were building a condo back home, we were hauling in 3/4” drywall for the walls between apartments. It is probably code for fire, but was told it kept the noise down

It would be expensive,but if my garage was drywalled first , then had a layer of 3/4” plywood on top of the drywall just on the side walls from 2’ from above the floor to the ceiling height , it would be the best of both worlds .


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

My shop isn't insulated either. Didn't have the money to spare when I got the shop and just let it slide since. But, being as the heat, and cold, is really getting to me this year, starting to think how to insulate it. Rolls of insulation would be good, but not on my knees or back. But looks like I can get ridged foam insulation, cut it to fit between the joists, with a lot less pain and time, so that is likely the rout I will go. Then thinking OSB will work well over it, especially since I have a small air nailer. Dunno if will cut it in strips, chunks, or what. For me at least it seems to be the best route, figure it will cause me the least pain and time. Should give me the incentive to make some changes, and also to get rid of a batch of stuff the younger son had me store in there - and then never touched again.


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## Jontaylor (Jul 12, 2019)

Try to insulate the shop with some cooling system. I remembered a few years ago when I went to a wood shop for purchasing a lamp, I got impressed with the interiors they had in their shop. Not only the rooftop, but also the floors was fully made of wooden floors. After I asked the manager about highly unique designed floors, they suggested me to call the wood*flooring Sacramento from the website for having such an amazing wood floor designs.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I put OSB board on the walls on the shop I had before this one. I then blew insulation behind that. I also put OSB on the ceiling. Light reflected off of it really good. For 1/2" OSB it's $7.55 a sheet in my neck of the woods. 

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...sOsZbS2XwpqFQ0ybRNhoCc7IQAvD_BwE,gclsrc:aw.ds


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

My shop is fully insulated 3 1/2 in the walls and 6" in the ceiling, but very little of it has any covering. The plan was to cover walls and ceiling with 1/2" plywood, but I had to move everything in because I had to vacate my former shop, so only a few sheets were put up and those are where the clamps and small parts bins needed to be hung. I did get it fully wired though. 4" quad outlets every 4' on #12/3 BX cable inside the walls and special runs for the 240 volt machines. I even ran the compressed air in the walls using 5/8 soft copper and flare fittings. Lights, heat pump, air compressor and all of my tools are in there and it's comfortable to work in there. If it never gets walls, oh,well.

I'm still spending most of my available time working on the 17 X 26' photography studio upstairs in the house. Very little has been done in my shop/outbuilding since January 2019. I have several woodworking projects planned for the photo studio, so I will be back out there soon. 

Charley


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

CharleyL said:


> My shop is fully insulated 3 1/2 in the walls and 6" in the ceiling, but very little of it has any covering. The plan was to cover walls and ceiling with 1/2" plywood, but I had to move everything in because I had to vacate my former shop, so only a few sheets were put up and those are where the clamps and small parts bins needed to be hung. I did get it fully wired though. 4" quad outlets every 4' on #12/3 BX cable inside the walls and special runs for the 240 volt machines. I even ran the compressed air in the walls using 5/8 soft copper and flare fittings. Lights, heat pump, air compressor and all of my tools are in there and it's comfortable to work in there. If it never gets walls, oh,well.
> 
> I'm still spending most of my available time working on the 17 X 26' photography studio upstairs in the house. Very little has been done in my shop/outbuilding since January 2019. I have several woodworking projects planned for the photo studio, so I will be back out there soon.
> 
> Charley


I have a feeling the most I’ll get done before winter is have the insulation in the walls and ceiling, then if it’s cold outside I can at least work in there and board it at my leisure .
I’m not going to be working,so maybe I’ll actually apply myself and get it done before it’s cold .
Not very confident though , as it seems the months go by extremely quickly


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

JOAT said:


> My shop isn't insulated either. Didn't have the money to spare when I got the shop and just let it slide since. But, being as the heat, and cold, is really getting to me this year, starting to think how to insulate it. Rolls of insulation would be good, but not on my knees or back. But looks like I can get ridged foam insulation, cut it to fit between the joists, with a lot less pain and time, so that is likely the rout I will go. Then thinking OSB will work well over it, especially since I have a small air nailer. Dunno if will cut it in strips, chunks, or what. For me at least it seems to be the best route, figure it will cause me the least pain and time. Should give me the incentive to make some changes, and also to get rid of a batch of stuff the younger son had me store in there - and then never touched again.


That rigid foam costs a fortune here Joat . I may as well go with Roxul


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## Jontaylor (Jul 12, 2019)

Try to insulate the shop with some cooling system. i remember a few years ago when i went to a wooden shop for purchasing lamp, i got impressed with the interiors they had at their shop. Not oly the rooftop but also the floors were fully made of floors. After I asked the manage about highly unique designed floors, they suggested me to call the hardwood flooring sacramento for having such an amazing wood floor designs.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

There is one entire wall in my shop that has 3 1/2 inch R13 insulation, and it's covered by 1/4 inch peg board. There is also a layer of radiant barrier on the inside of that wall which is 3/4 ply. That makes it R17. The ceiling has about 6 inches, but that insulation is sealed in with 2 inch thick foam with a reflective coating on the inside. I also have radient barrier (Bubble type) just under the roof, which keeps heat out in summer, heat in in winter. I think it took about 2 days to get all the insulation in. 

The ceiling in the garage has 6 inch (R38) that was put in by a professional crew, with blown in insulation in all the walls. The ceiling was done in a couple of hours, including putting in the radiant barrier under the OSB roofing. The same crew also installed venting so there's air flow into the area and a powered exhaust fan so if it gets more than 120 up there, it changes the air. 

I found that having a good powered staple gun makes installing insulation much faster and easier.

I've mentioned it before, but we did a IR heat check comparing the bare OSB to the radiant barrier covered side and there was about a 35 degree difference. Out here in the Mojave, that counts big time. I mention the details because, while we don't get condensation and mold problems here, where you are Rick, that attic ventillation is likely to be necessary.

I bet you could have that insulation fully in with about 4 evenings of work. Install one wall per day, and then the ceiling. Get the stuff in and worry about the wall materials later. I think you will seriously regret putting your new CNC through a winter of freezing in that ice box.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DesertRatTom said:


> There is one entire wall in my shop that has 3 1/2 inch R13 insulation, and it's covered by 1/4 inch peg board. There is also a layer of radiant barrier on the inside of that wall which is 3/4 ply. That makes it R17. The ceiling has about 6 inches, but that insulation is sealed in with 2 inch thick foam with a reflective coating on the inside. I also have radient barrier (Bubble type) just under the roof, which keeps heat out in summer, heat in in winter. I think it took about 2 days to get all the insulation in.
> 
> The ceiling in the garage has 6 inch (R38) that was put in by a professional crew, with blown in insulation in all the walls. The ceiling was done in a couple of hours, including putting in the radiant barrier under the OSB roofing. The same crew also installed venting so there's air flow into the area and a powered exhaust fan so if it gets more than 120 up there, it changes the air.
> 
> ...


 Tom I stored all the cnc stuff in the basement. Thought I’d assemble it when the garage is complete inside ,which may be never if this new job turns out .

I thought I’d try and get some part time work ,as that would give me time to work on my house and shop . 
But in a strange turn of events , one of our main contractors just crashed his quad breaking his leg and also receiving some spinal damage .
So now they want me full time . This will be a lot more work than I’m used to , and I suspect I’ll be pretty much bagged when I get home . But if I’m working out of town , the shift is 8 in and 6 out ,and that would free me up . 
I could certainly use some decent income for the time being , as I still have way to high of a mortgage . 
Things change rapidly around here , so I’m going to make the best of it and save as much as I can for now , as you never know what tomorrow brings .
I’m hoping this works out till I’m at least 60 ,which is in April 2021, then I can apply for CPP early .
Maybe hard work will get me in better shape and I’ll really enjoy this job and stretch it till I’m 65


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@RainMan 2.0 
You know, even if you only put in 2 hours per day, you could still get it done before winter. You have, what, 6 weeks before it starts turning cold. By then you could have have the insulation in.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DesertRatTom said:


> @RainMan 2.0
> You know, even if you only put in 2 hours per day, you could still get it done before winter. You have, what, 6 weeks before it starts turning cold. By then you could have have the insulation in.


Ya but then I couldn’t BS with you guys every day :lol:


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Ya but then I couldn’t BS with you guys every day :lol:


Ahh, there it is. Holy cow, a CNC in the basement and you want to BS with a bunch of old farts? Get a grip Rick. :smile: Get the insulation and a staple gun. Do what you can, when you can. Bet once you get started, you'll move it right along.


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## Inor (Aug 15, 2019)

5/8" Hardie Board on the walls and ceiling. Metallic epoxy from these guys on the floor.

https://www.epoxyplus.com/

I will argue the epoxy floor finish is even more important than the walls and ceiling. It makes the shop SO much easier to clean up.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Inor said:


> ...
> 
> I will argue the epoxy floor finish is even more important than the walls and ceiling. It makes the shop SO much easier to clean up.


One shop has a ply floor, the other (garage) is concrete. Same stuff for both?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Harsh!*



DesertRatTom said:


> Ahh, there it is. Holy cow, a CNC in the basement and you want to BS with a bunch of old farts? Get a grip Rick. :smile: Get the insulation and a staple gun. Do what you can, when you can. Bet once you get started, you'll move it right along.


He can't, Tom. The garage is so full of stuff that he's overwhelmed. There is NO plan. I actually empathize. 
Pretty sure I predicted this stalemate a few years ago; *the garage has to be emptied out, completely. * Trying to move the stuff around to get any work done in there will never happen.
Get a crane to place a shipping container onto the driveway, and hire a couple of guys to help with moving the stuff, insulating, and whatever else.This business of blowing insulation is just a stalling tactic.
Sorry if this sounds unkind, but just calling a stapler a stapler. 
This misery could be done in a week. Talking about R40 in a workshop (in Castlegar) is not helping; you're not heating the shop to live in it. Go with R32 Fibreglass and giter done! Roxul is great stuff but a lot harder to install _ well._


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## Larry42 (Aug 11, 2014)

A bunch of good ideas. If you do drywall in the ceiling be sure it is 5/8", 1/2 will sag over time on 24". I also prefer conduit surface mounted for it's ease of changes. Over time you will change tool layout. If when you put in the conduit on the ceiling you mount a few extra boxes with a loop of 10 or 12 gage wire, life will be easier in the future. I marked the face plates with the breaker #. Painting walls & ceiling semi gloss white greatly improves the lighting. Don't cheap out on the lighting put in plenty of 4' LEDs. The ones around the edges need to be about 2' out from the walls or cabinets to prevent shadows. If you have cabinets over benches put in under cabinet lighting. The older you get the more you will appreciate good lighting. I know, I'm older than dirt. I put down 2 coats of epoxy on my concrete floor and really like it. I had it tinted a very light tan color (matches the dust!) Makes clean up much easier. If you have any chip outs in the concrete they make epoxy filler for that. 
Make sure the floor is absolutely clean before you paint. I rented a 20" floor scrubber and used Trisodium phosphate. Vacuum, rise, vacuum, rinse....


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"Make sure the floor is absolutely clean before you paint. I rented a 20" floor scrubber and used Trisodium phosphate. Vacuum, rise, vacuum, rinse...."
-Larry
See my earlier comment re 'emptying the garage completely.' None of the renos are going to happen until Rick accepts that his loaded-up garage _is the problem_.
Denial ain't just a river.
Not being cruel, Rick, I'm just giving you tough luv, Buddy!


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## Inor (Aug 15, 2019)

DesertRatTom said:


> One shop has a ply floor, the other (garage) is concrete. Same stuff for both?


I think the epoxy would only be appropriate for the concrete shop. It is pretty easy to put down, the only advice I will give is to make sure the floor is dry dry dry before you put on the primer coat. They recommend letting it dry for 5 full days after washing it with water. I figured that since I live in the desert that 3 days would be adequate. I have had a couple places where I dropped a clamp in it and it has chipped. I am sure that is due to my own stupidity.

I like the stuff so much, I doing the floor in the Art Shack that I am building for my wife with it too.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Hiring someone to help unload the garage is a good idea. Much easier to insulate, wire, drywall when it's empty. And I agree, go with the fiberglass or similar insulation with paper backs. One weekend and it's in. Drywall is easy on walls, so's plywood of some sort. OSB is cheap and heavy as sin. Rent a drywall riser to do the ceiling. Save your back. LED hurts YOUR eyes, so get someting that works for you. Enough of the long standing joke. It's worn out and once you have it done, get going on the CNC. You have no idea how good you'll feel when you're up and running.


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