# Insert plate vs. Direct bolt to router table



## Trumanthedog (May 11, 2010)

This is probably a really dumb question, but what are the advantages of bolting the router to an insert plate that is flush mounted in the router table versus just bolting the router directly to the table? 

I am trying to design my table and I have been looking at insert plates, but I do not want to spend $60+ on something that is not necessary. 

Thanks
-Eric


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Eric

The real advantage is you can pop the router out easy plus if you bolt the router in without it you will lose about 3/4" to 1 1/2" of the router height adjustment not to say anythng about the snap in rings that will let you use just about any bit in the router table..

Here's one plate I recommend all the time.. 
Router Table Plate
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...tacc1.html#All_In_One_router_plate_kit_anchor

Drill pattern template
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics2/TM41-43routerplate0911.pdf
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Trumanthedog said:


> This is probably a really dumb question, but what are the advantages of bolting the router to an insert plate that is flush mounted in the router table versus just bolting the router directly to the table?
> 
> I am trying to design my table and I have been looking at insert plates, but I do not want to spend $60+ on something that is not necessary.
> 
> ...


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## Trumanthedog (May 11, 2010)

Thanks for the info. How come you lose so much height adjustment with the direct bolt option?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Trumanthedog said:


> Thanks for the info. How come you lose so much height adjustment with the direct bolt option?


If you bolt to the bottom side of the table, the thickness of the table needs to be accounted for, unless you were visualizing something else?? Most table tops are 3/4" +.


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## Trumanthedog (May 11, 2010)

Thats something I didn't think about, make perfect sense though. Im glad I started asking questions before I started building. Thanks guys


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## iamwelty2 (Dec 27, 2008)

What are you going to use your table for? Generally a plate is the way to go. A plate makes it much easier to change bits, especially if you don't have a router lift or a router like the Triton... Just got an Incra Aluminum Router Plate, it's really nice and comes with magnet inserts...


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## davcefai (Aug 3, 2009)

I've tried both. Now I use a plate.

Cheap option: make a plate from an 8mm thick plastic kitchen chopping board. They vary a lot in rigidity so shop around.

Be aware that you lose out on the snap-in rings - but I did say cheap


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Here's a good plate to use. $20
Router Table Plate


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Timely question! I got on the forum to ask the same question! Thanks for the replies and advice.

Axlmyks, I take it you have one of these. I called HF and this is an Online or catalogue item only. Thanks.

The only dumb question is the one not asked- Dad


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I have a Rousseau and an HF plate. They fit in the same hole. The only difference is the HF doesn't have the slight hump at the inserts.


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## Trumanthedog (May 11, 2010)

I don't have projects planned (as of yet) that I plan on using the table for but I'd hate to limit what I can do because I skimped on the design and quality of the table. That being said I don't plan on making kitchen cabinets or anything comparable anytime soon. I hadn't looked at the phenolic plates much just because I had read some guys having problems with them either being crowned too much and not settling or sagging after a while. Any thoughts from those that have/had phenolic plates? Right now I have my router (bosch 1617 combo) bolted to a 1/2" sheet of HDO plywood and I have just been removing the router from the base to change the bits which isn't too bad on the bosch model, I can't speak for any others though.


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## xvimbi (Sep 29, 2009)

I'm a bit late to this thread, but here it goes from someone who hasn't tried either but is working on it:

Do the direct mount 

Some thoughts:

1. There are prominent advocates, so it can't be that bad... (I know that argument doesn't really count).

2. Bit height loss: In reality you don't loose much bit height at all. Most good-quality phenolic inserts have a thickness of 3/8". You don't need more than 1/2" for direct mounting, so all you'll lose is 1/8". Chances are you will not even notice. How do you loose only that little compared to an insert plate, you ask? Well, you mount the router to a 1/2" MDF sheet that itself is glued to a 3/4" MDF sheet with a cutout that the router fits through. Very stable.

3. Direct mounting does not allow you to easily adjust the bit opening. Drill an initial 1" hole, or whatever diameter your guide bushings have. That will be sufficient for most operations. If you ever need larger openings there won't be a way to go back, unless you start making provisions for insert rings.

4. If you are dissatisfied with the direct mount you can always invest in $20-100 and switch to an insert plate at a later point.

Cheers! MM


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## distrbd (Oct 8, 2009)

You could rout out half the thickness of the table and just leave 3/8" for the router to bolt on.
Have a look at this link:
Popular Woodworking - Router Table-Mate


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Eric... just one more opinion... and it depends upon how you're going to use it. The other significant advantages many plates offer is a range of insert rings that mount into the top of the plate to let you vary the size of the hole in the plate. 

With a direct mount it must be large enough to clear the largest bit you'll use. The flip-side is the closer the opening is to the bit size the better support you'll have, decreasing tearout (and at the extreme, a safety measure). If all of your bits are about the same diameter, this isn't a big deal. 

In the last year I've used everything from an 1/8" bit (for decorative work) clear up to 3-1/2" (raised panel bit). For the 3-1/2" bit I had a 3-5/8" opening but it was sure nice to use a 3/8" opening for the 1/8" bit, especially since I was routing on 5"x5" stock! If you're going to be using pretty much the same sized bits, this may not benefit you.

On another point, try something... just for fun take a scrap of plywood, cut a 1" hole in it and mount the router, then find a way to support it temporarily, as if its set up as a table. Do not plug it in. If you're considering insetting the router 3/4" by routing into the bottom of the table, tack a piece of 3/4" stock to the bottom of the ply to simulate it being inset. Get down on your hands and knees and change the bit. 

Then turn over the plywood, remove the 3/4" stock and change the bit with the router on top and easy to see and access. This is what you could do with the router in a plate. See which you prefer.


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