# Shining 1" steel pipe



## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

I have 4 pieces of 1" gas pipe, also know as black steel pipe. These pipes are 6' long. The OD is 1 1/4".
I also have 2 pieces of 3/4" pipe, with OD 1" as well to clean.

I seen a jig and a drill was turning the pipe to allow you to hold a file, sand paper etc on the pipe to shine. The jig I think i can stumble through, but a drill to turn seems there would be little or no control over the speed.

I did not like the idea and thought maybe someone may have an idea for cleaning the black steel pipe. It has to be clean and smooth as there are bearings running on this pipe.

My son say's by hand,  has to be an easier way,,,, I hope.

Any help appreciated
John

Thanks Ken sometimes we look for the hard way, appreciate the wire wheel idea.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Ummm. What was Kens' idea?
Darn PMs.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Give this a shot,, if you have a drum sander that fits your drill pull one of your belts out for your belt sander and turn it inside out, that's to say the grit is on the inside of the belt,slip it over the pipe that's in the vise in wooded blocks now slip the drum sander inside the belt and turn it slow and move it up and down the pipe 

But this is what I would do pickup some hvy.wall tubing from one of the steel companys in town,, it comes clean and true, I have used it to make spec. washers at one time...3500 of them,,, 5/8" thick 1" ID and 3" OD..


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Check twice! said:


> I have 4 pieces of 1" gas pipe, also know as black steel pipe. These pipes are 6' long. The OD is 1 1/4".
> I also have 2 pieces of 3/4" pipe, with OD 1" as well to clean.
> 
> I seen a jig and a drill was turning the pipe to allow you to hold a file, sand paper etc on the pipe to shine. The jig I think i can stumble through, but a drill to turn seems there would be little or no control over the speed.
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I don't know if you have a lathe John, either metal or wood, if you do, remove the tail-stock and chuck up the pipe and use wire wool, emery cloth or whatever as it rotates at a fairly slow speed.


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Good morning!
Ken's idea was to use a wire wheel on my bench grinder!

Bob, I see what you are saying and this is an option as well, I do have a drill sander drum, and a belt sander.

After seeing the jig I thought complicated instead of simple. I was trying to turn the pipe, and all I needed was a stable turning wheel. My grinder seems like it will work, with a wire wheel. 
One fellow took 8 hours to do his pipe by hand, not in my vocabulary. 

I do not have a lathe, (I sold it locally about 9 months ago) as the chuck would come in handy at a time like this. 

This pipe has to be smooth, it is part of my CNC router gantry. Most of what I read they either did it by hand or turned the pipe. Galvinized, would peel after continued use, so the black pipe was chosen.

Got to get to work, 5:15 am, duty calls. Have a great day, and remember, "It's Friday".  More shop time. 

Thanks 
John


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'm pretty certain John that I would buy some new stainless tube, it's not as expensive as one would think.


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Harry

You are likely right, (I never was one for easy) I need something that has a heavy wall, as it will be carring a lot of weight and a great deal of torque. 

As it is it cost me $86.00 for the steel pipe, scared the breaches off me.  I do not know if the old heart could take the shock of asking for stainless. I required 30 feet. 

I am into jigs, and maybe the hard way but a learning way. Between Ken and Bob I am going to go with a combination of both and see what works, or if it works. The bottom line is, Scott's thinking, by hand. 

John


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI John

I know you have it done by now, but if not check out Keystone.

If it's worth doing it's worth doing it right...I have used them many times...,,, a A1 company...

They have a outlet in Denver and you will be amaze how easy it is to get what you want off the rack...at a good price, they have just about all you can think of in tubing...

PLUS they are in CA. also...just down the road from you... 

https://www.marmonkeystone.com/ecomm/servlet/ProductCatalogServlet
https://www.marmonkeystone.com/ecomm/servlet/ProductCatalogServlet?categoryid=16139
https://www.marmonkeystone.com/ecomm/servlet/ProductCatalogServlet?categoryid=16164
https://www.marmonkeystone.com/ecomm/servlet/LocationServlet
https://www.marmonkeystone.com/ecomm/servlet/ProductSearchServlet?producttypeid=1

Burlington Burlington, ON 800-263-6262 905-335-7059
Canadian Corporate Office Burlington, ON 905-319-4646 905-319-4248
Leduc Leduc, AB 800-222-6504 780-986-9868
Montreal Montreal, qc 800-361-8142 450-641-4357
Vancouver Vancouver, BC 800-663-9572 604-857-9860
Winnipeg Winnipeg, MB 800-665-0126 204-694-5591

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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Keystones will not ship to me. I did email them and they offered alternative suppliers, within Canada. 

I am thinking ,,,,thinking,,,,burn out 
John


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Here's a supplier
http://resistaloy.com/
I Googled canadian pipe supply


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

These are two jigs I have found, for shining the steel.

John


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

That's using your head 

Now if you can keep it true you'er set..

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## hgporter (Feb 26, 2007)

Your requirement of bearings running on this pipe is a point for concern. Are you putting bearings over the pipe so that the pipe runs through the inner race, or do bearings roll on the pipe circumference? Is the pipe a spinning component (in constant rotation, or is it part of Jig which will only be rotated by hand)?

I ask these questions because with rotating equipment the importance of concentricity on shafts is critical to bearing life and perhaps safety of anyone nearby.

Can you give a little more information? How much weight is being supported?

If your design has the pipe spinning in a bearing, cleaning by hand may not be a wise choice.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Now John, that really is proof that necessity is the mother of invention, however, having said that, I have basically the same questions as hgporter.


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

hgporter said:


> Your requirement of bearings running on this pipe is a point for concern. Are you putting bearings over the pipe so that the pipe runs through the inner race, or do bearings roll on the pipe circumference? Is the pipe a spinning component (in constant rotation, or is it part of Jig which will only be rotated by hand)?
> 
> I ask these questions because with rotating equipment the importance of concentricity on shafts is critical to bearing life and perhaps safety of anyone nearby.
> 
> ...


hgporter

A picture is worth a thousand words.

You can get an idea of the use and the need for smooth. We will be getting heavy enclosed bearings for the ganty carriage.
John


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

A bit more info
John


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## dtoggs (Apr 24, 2008)

Check twice! said:


> I have 4 pieces of 1" gas pipe, also know as black steel pipe. These pipes are 6' long. The OD is 1 1/4".
> I also have 2 pieces of 3/4" pipe, with OD 1" as well to clean.
> 
> I seen a jig and a drill was turning the pipe to allow you to hold a file, sand paper etc on the pipe to shine. The jig I think i can stumble through, but a drill to turn seems there would be little or no control over the speed.
> ...


 I believe any sanding you do to make it shiny,will change the diameter haphazardly. I hate to say it after you spending 86$,but for a precision cnc,you will just not get there with pipe... You should buy some case harden steel rod(solid will be less expensive that tubular). THompson is the brand that is know in the industry. Now this is if you are going to use linear bearings- ifn you are going to use bronze bushings,guess you will get by. The components WILL be expensive! I think I would use fully supported rod over that 6' length any way.... better head on back to the kitchen and cook up sumpin else... he he. I'm trying to be helpful,so I suggest you make or buy a small table and gantry-spend time developing the software. No wonder those things cost 25-35k for the size you are looking at.


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

dtoggs

The pipe is supported the complete distance of the bed, actually in cut outs in the side. So strength is ok. We will likely be out a little, using the sandpaper road but this machine will be used to cut parts of a secod machine we are doing. I feel with patience, and calipers we can get fairly close. I will let you know. If this causes any set up problem down the road it is easy to insert the solid rod.

I know the mechanics that are putting it together and I will give myself a free service call. 

I made the jig, and find it works quite well. Here is how I did it.

John


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Hi John,

If you keep sending such great quotes I may have to make you blush again.

Very nice techniques John,

Ed......


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## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

John, I built the Joes2006 @1 1/2 years ago with galvanized pipe and I can not really tell the rails have been used. There is a small trail on the pipe where the bearings have been running, but not any wear. I might have to replace them in a few years but I am thinking of starting the Joe4x4, so I shouldn't have to worry about that.


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Doug

We have bought the set of plans from Joe for the 4 X 4 we want to use them to build a 2 x 2, using the 4 x 4 plans. I like the all steel construction of the 4 x 4. Joe will sell the plans alone if you choose.

I will force forward with the steel pipe, and the work that goes with it. I am a sucker for punishment. I got the son and will drag him away from the electronics, to lend a hand.

How is your unit running, and what are you using for drivers and the cam/cad end. I think we will be running VCarve for the operations and Mach3 for the drivers. 

Greatful for any advice or opinion as we move forward.

John


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

John;
Did you get that duct-taped drill from a Red Green garage sale?


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Red Green wood be so proud of you John.


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Is duct-tape not the "do all,,, save all" tool.  

The "better fixer-upper". 

Have a great day, on my way to work.

I like the photo Dave, 
John


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You really are trying to become "the fairest of us all" Dave!


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## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

John, I just figured that I would have rust problems down the road if I shined the pipe like everybody was doing. Have not heard anybody having problems. Guess I was wrong but my machine is doing fine. I usually cut @70 ipm and travel @120 ipm. Could go faster but everything seems to run well without any problems at this speed and I'm usually not in a hurry anyway.

Don't know why you would cut the 4x4 down to a 2x2 but I guess you have a good reason. Just may not have the room for the 4x4. The Joe2006 will cut 2x4 and after a while you will be wanting something larger (seems everyone else does). Probably wouldn't make much difference in the price going from the 4x4 down to a 2x2. The electrical stuff is where the majority of your money will go and that will be the same for either a 2x2 or a 4x4.

I use Vcarve Pro and Mach 3. Probably like 90% of the people that I have seen that tell what software they use. Both are excellent programs. Very user friendly. I am thinking about the Cut3d program from Vectric but this CNC software gets expensive for somebody that is not doing this for a business.

I don't know a whole lot about this CNC stuff but have learned much more than I did when I first started. Guess it is like most woodworking - a fellow can just keep learning. Am fairly good about following directions and that is pretty much what I have done. Usually have to read up what I'm fixing to do and then just do what they say.

If I can help you in any way, just let me know. Not a whole lot I could do, but I'll do the best I can. A lot of build logs on the CNCzone.


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