# Office cubicle table top for router top



## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

I have an office cubicle table top that I am thinking about using as a router table top. It is 1 3/16" thick, formica laminated on both sides, and has t-molding. It is too long, so I will cut it down to 24" x 32" and hardwood edge-band the raw edges.

Onto my question: I am going to install a phenolic or lexan router base plate. I noticed that the inside of this table top is particle board and not MDF. When I route the rabbet for the plate, since the particle board/chipboard is not as dense/tight as MDF, will it splinter and brake or will it work o.k.?

By the way, it is currently 24" x 42" and I used feeler gauges to check the flatness. The middle is .034" cupped, so I'm going to try nickao65's tip on flattening it: Flatten warped top LINK


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## scrollwolf (Sep 12, 2004)

Hi Noob,
I used to specify & order and have installed modular office furniture. The particle board used for this type of furniture is made denser than that typically found at home improvement stores. You might want to check if it has metal supports embedded for strength. That would be my only concern.

Jack


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Thanks for the warning. I'll remove the t-molding and see if I can spot metal and also run a magnet along the faces to see if it's embedded.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

You should end up with a nice table. I use Formica topped 1 1/2" kitchen worktop material. I trim and lip the edges. As it is chipboard, I polish the exposed chipboard to seal and solidify it (where the router plate ledge is)


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Know that the most important thing is a flat base plate, if the stock lies flat on the baseplate as it passes the bit you're golden.

2nd, fact of gravity, all things eventually sag under their own weight. 

Not knowing what the platform is for your RT top and how it is configured, if you haven't already set the top up on the whatever, you might consider convex up. If so, you can use a counter weight on top to level it out and a series of L brackets to hold it down. 

Eventually over a series of months or years you'll be able to remove the brackets if thats still a factor.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Thanks for the replies. I will make sure to brace it in some way or other so that it doesn't sag once I flatten it. Considering that these cubicle tables are over a decade old and people sit on them and they were only supported on the ends, I was surprised it didn't sag more. 

I went to Lowes and they didn't have any Formica drop-offs, only full sheets. It's more than I want to spend so I'll try and make this table top work. Hey, it's free and if I screw up installing the router plate I won't feel so bad.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Paulo

Just put it to one side and use it for a work bench,,just pickup some 3/4" MDF and make your own top....2 pieces of MDF stock will not need any angle iron to support it or to keep it flat,,you don't want to start out with a top that's has a bow in it from the get go...

Particle board/chipboard is the last thing you want to use for your router table,,,it likes to chip out/splinter out very easy,and likes to sag, like they say you can't make a silk purse out of a cows ear.,,,junk in junk out... 


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Noob said:


> I have an office cubicle table top that I am thinking about using as a router table top. It is 1 3/16" thick, formica laminated on both sides, and has t-molding. It is too long, so I will cut it down to 24" x 32" and hardwood edge-band the raw edges.
> 
> Onto my question: I am going to install a phenolic or lexan router base plate. I noticed that the inside of this table top is particle board and not MDF. When I route the rabbet for the plate, since the particle board/chipboard is not as dense/tight as MDF, will it splinter and brake or will it work o.k.?
> 
> By the way, it is currently 24" x 42" and I used feeler gauges to check the flatness. The middle is .034" cupped, so I'm going to try nickao65's tip on flattening it: Flatten warped top LINK


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> HI Paulo
> 
> Just put it to one side and use it for a work bench,,just pickup some 3/4" MDF and make your own top....2 pieces of MDF stock will not need any angle iron to support it or to keep it flat,,you don't want to start out with a top that's has a bow in it from the get go...
> 
> ...


Please don't say "I told you so" 

Well I'm going to have to scrap the cubicle table top idea. I had it flipped over and put it on some 2 x 4s on the ends and 50 pounds of weight in the middle. After 1 week it was 1/64th" cupped and I thought I could live with that. Well since it's been sitting there on my workbench with no weight on it, it bowed back up and worse. :shout:

The local Lowes and Home Depot don't have any countertop drop-off or laminate drop off and I'm trying to keep it affordable still (I don't want to buy a whole sheet of formica laminate). I have some baltic birch plywood and some MDF. Could I use one of those for a table top and then coat it with polyurethane and wax to help wood slide better on it?

I noticed Pat Warner doesn't use laminate on his tops and I think this one is a hardwood plywood top, but can't tell for sure: Router table LINK

Also, since +-3/4" bb plywood is stronger than MDF, would I still have to glue two layers together or would one work?


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## Barry99 (Feb 10, 2009)

Did you check Lowes and HD partical sheets section. You can buy 24"x48" plywood & MFD. You may also find some 1/4 or 1/2 sheets laminate.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Paulo

I do like a block of MDF wood that's 1 1/2" thick over some plywood,it's just more mass..
baltic birch is great stuff but it's not cheap...and it's still open on the edges.
plywood is plywood, Baltic is the best but well..

I have one made out of MDF and going on 4 or 5 years old and it's still flat .

I use Johnson floor wax on it all the time and works great...


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Noob said:


> Please don't say "I told you so"
> 
> Well I'm going to have to scrap the cubicle table top idea. I had it flipped over and put it on some 2 x 4s on the ends and 50 pounds of weight in the middle. After 1 week it was 1/64th" cupped and I thought I could live with that. Well since it's been sitting there on my workbench with no weight on it, it bowed back up and worse. :shout:
> 
> ...


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

That is a big relief! Thanks for your patience too!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I joined this forum 12-08 so my router table etc was mostly completed at that time so I did not have the benefit of the excellent advice afforded here. Therefore I have not incorporated all the information available. 

My table was mostly built from things I had on hand including a 33X46" p-lam top I had, and it is a particle board core. I also had two base cabinets that I used to make up the main part of the router table. When I did my cut out, I actually lined it with some maple I had and then cut the ledged opening in the maple. The knobs were on the wrong side of the fence, go figure, but that was taken care of. The router is outside the cabinet and I will keep that aspect on future tables. I do not mind the little dust I get just to keep the crud out of the motor. I did brace the top as you can see in pic 5. I use my table as a run out for my TS pics 8&9and for that I remove the fence and replace the router with a blank opening cover. I am using 1X3 oak for a trim piece on the table and will carry this over to the rest of the tops in the shop. 

Having said all that let me conclude with I agree with BJ completely and that is why I will be doing a new top from MDF this summer. I will use the maple insert to hold the router, and keep the oak for the edge. I just like those two.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Very nice looking table xplorx4, looks like furniture more than a power tool. Considering that the router is cantilevered, you also did a great job bracing it. Thanks for sharing.


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