# Milwaukee 5615 Aluminum Table Plate Help



## pottsgo (Jan 15, 2007)

Hi All,
I have my Milwaukee 5615 router mounted to a table using a homemade polycarbonate table insert. I'd like to upgrade the plate to an aluminum version to fix some sagging issues. However, I'm having trouble determining which aluminum plates will work with this router with regards to the bolt hole pattern. It appears most of the aluminum plates on the market don't specify the hole patter dimensions. Instead they're advertised for fitting mostly Porter & Cable routers but I don't know which P&C model # matches the Milwaukee model on the hole pattern. I've taken my circular router base plate to the local Woodcraft store but the only aluminum plates there have about 20 holes in them to match every pattern available! I'd like to avoid that!

So anyway - if anyone has other routers (P&C in particular) that have a 3 hole pattern where the holes are ~2 3/8" from the center then please let me know.

Thanks!!
Greg


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Greg, you can make your own plate. Aluminum is easy to drill and shape. Check your phone book or online for a metal supplier. Transfer the holes from your current plate, center punch and drill. This is easy to do and you will take pride telling others you built your own.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Greg

Just drill the holes in the Alum. plate to fit your router 

You will need to made a quick jig to get the router on dead center of the plate.
Like the one in the snapshot below, once you have the jig made, then find 3 screws that are the same size to hold the router to the base plate(black part) ,remove the heads and grind the screws to a sharp point then hand screw them into the base, then chuck up the jig and set it into place on the new Alum. plate,tap the screws with a hammer (with care ) this will mark the point you will need to drill the new mounting holes in the Alum. plate (use a 1/8" bit 1st) and then counter sink the holes and then drill them out to the right size on the top side of the new plate..

To grind the screws down to a sharp point, just use your battery drill with the screws chucked up and use the belt sander or grinder.

Bj


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## pottsgo (Jan 15, 2007)

Thanks for the advice guys. I hadn't heard of anyone making their own aluminum base plates so it didn't even occur to me to try.
thanks again,
Greg


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## lrr (Nov 27, 2006)

You can get a "blank" plate from Rockler, so you can drill your own holes. Plus, you will be able to change inserts -- it includes one with a large opening, and one with no opening so you can cut it yourself.


http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=1385&TabSelect=Details

Also available is an extra large plate. Check out their website for more options if you are hesitant to make one. Finally, if you want to go wild, one of the "lifts" may work -- I looked at your router on Google, and saw it out of its mount. If it is ~ 3" to 3.5" in diameter, then one of the lifts that clamp around the motor would be a great way to go. Maybe you could contact Rockler to see if that would be an option.

I've got their standard table, and very happy with it. I'm thinking of getting a second plate just so I can swap out different routers easily.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Greg

Just some more to look at 

http://www.woodpeck.com/aluminsert.html

http://www.woodpeck.com/blankphenolicinsert.html

http://www.woodpeck.com/inserts.html

Bj


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## frank byrne (Oct 9, 2011)

Greg. Make sure you drill the holes square to the plate. Don't try to line it up by eye. Use a pillar drill if you can. Franko.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

frank byrne said:


> Greg. Make sure you drill the holes square to the plate. Don't try to line it up by eye. Use a pillar drill if you can. Franko.


Hi Frank - Welcome to the forum
I seriously hope they have solved the issue by now, the thread is 4 years old:dirol:

Just a note though. I don't particularly worry about the holes being perfectly perpendicular as I drill them a tad oversized and use counterbores with pan head screws instead of countersinks with flat head screws. This gives me a little wiggle room in case I have missed the center a little bit.


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