# Hope it all goes together!!!!!!!!



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

MEBCWD did a file for me so I could try something different.

Started out simple enough









Not too bad so far









Ended up with this - some assembly required!!









Now ...... if it doesn't come together like it should I'm gonna blame Mike and send all the parts to Ollie. He can make something out of anything.

Stay tuned

HJ


----------



## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Anxiously waiting to see what it becomes!


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

kp91 said:


> Anxiously waiting to see what it becomes!


and Oliver is anxiously awaiting delivery...


----------



## marecat3 (Nov 30, 2010)

good luck


----------



## kklowell (Dec 26, 2014)

Hmmmm...what could it be?


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Oooooh! Parts. Lots of cool parts! So many parts with so many possibilities. [Pardon my drool.] :grin:


----------



## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

John,

Don't forget you need to cut all those dowels. Keep your tolerances tight so everything fits together or I'll blame it on you if the mechanisms don't work.


----------



## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

And the suspense builds......


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Mike,

If you'll notice - - there's plently of extra dowel length to allow for "measuring mistakes". 

Playing around with finishes and colors on some scrap now.

HJ


----------



## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

kklowell said:


> Hmmmm...what could it be?


I guess its a Toy. :wink:


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

RÖENTGEEP said:


> I guess its a Toy. :wink:


I'm thinking an 18 wheeler truck.


----------



## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

Yea those look like wheels


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

car/jeep....


----------



## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

Looking good, so far. N


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

pickup..


----------



## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

I don't even know what it is and I want a copy of the file.


----------



## LDBecker (Jun 16, 2015)

That's a lot of wheels - maybe a locomotive engine?


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

kp91 said:


> I don't even know what it is and I want a copy of the file.


Doug,

If it all goes together reasonably well, it shouldn't be a problem between MEBCWD and myself. You don't need a CNC for this, but I'm hoping it makes the pieces fit together better. Besides, I wanted to see if I could make parts that could be assembled into a final product like others have done.

HJ


----------



## SteveMI (May 29, 2011)

The biggest key to cutting pieces with a CNC that need to fit tightly together is to really know the cutting diameter of the bit you are using. First you have the physical diameter, which on regular commercial bits can be a couple thousandth or more small that make things too tight. Next you have your actual rotating run out, which can contribute another couple thousandths using a router. 

Draw a square in CAD that fits to your micrometer (don't use a caliper). In my case I have a 2" micrometer, so I use a 1.5" square. On a piece of material, cut two squares; first using the inside and second using the outside. You can dog the corners or chamfer them. If by some stroke of magic they fit together then you can call it done. Most always you need to measure the "inside" square, subtract that from the 1.5" and then divide it into two. Add that value to your tool diameter and repeat the cut. It should then fit.

I have a place that sharpens my bits and uses a laser optical comparator for a true diameter measurement. Never have had a "good" brand box store end-mill not be small. It seems $80 is where you start getting accurate to a thousandths. But even so I do the square test in order to know the run-out cutting diameter. 

Steve.


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Started - plans say to clamp and glue, but I'm sinking a few screws in to make sure it stays together. These holes line up.









Dry fit these - holes lined up here too.









Working so far.

HJ


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

SteveMI said:


> I have a place that sharpens my bits and uses a laser optical comparator for a true diameter measurement. Never have had a "good" brand box store end-mill not be small. It seems $80 is where you start getting accurate to a thousandths. But even so I do the square test in order to know the run-out cutting diameter.
> 
> Steve.


Steve,

You have a place in the area that sharpens bits, or do you send them out. What's the cost?
If I don't break them first, I've just been pitching them when they get dull. Course, I only got a few "high end" ones.

HJ


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I can hardly wait.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

honesttjohn said:


> Started - plans say to clamp and glue, but I'm sinking a few screws in to make sure it stays together. These holes line up.
> 
> Working so far.
> 
> HJ


hurry up ... will ya...


----------



## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Ya can't rush perfection Stick.


----------



## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

honesttjohn said:


> Started - plans say to clamp and glue, but I'm sinking a few screws in to make sure it stays together. These holes line up.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm glad the holes are lining up, if they didn't you could probably blame that on me. 

*Holes that line up should make the flippy floppy parts work right!*


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JFPNCM said:


> Ya can't rush perfection Stick.


explain it to her for me... please...


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

MEBCWD said:


> I'm glad the holes are lining up, if they didn't you could probably blame that on me.
> 
> *Holes that line up should make the flippy floppy parts work right!*


Mike,
If this doesn't work, I'm going to blame it ALL on you. I get blamed for too much already. lol

HJ

Wrong stuff just seems to follow !!!!!


----------



## SteveMI (May 29, 2011)

honesttjohn said:


> Steve,
> You have a place in the area that sharpens bits, or do you send them out. What's the cost?
> If I don't break them first, I've just been pitching them when they get dull. Course, I only got a few "high end" ones.
> HJ


It seems to me they were under $5 each to sharpen my Whiteside 1/4" up-cut and 60 degree. They seem to cut cleaner than new ones after I have them sharpened. Place is in Romulus near Detroit Metro Airport called Saw & Specialty Corporation . They have pick up and delivery service points in Wayne, Oakland, Macomb, Washtenaw, Monroe counties. Call them for a location near you. 

Steve.


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Thanx Steve

HJ


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Got a couple of more sections put together and a couple off to the side freshly glued and clamped. The fun part, seeing if they all mesh together, is getting closer.









HJ


----------



## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> explain it to her for me... please...


If only one knew that code :frown: the explanation would be easy.


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Got the main parts put together in sections and dry fit to see if it all worked. I added screws even though the plans said to just use glue. Still got to add the trim and of course paint. I'm thinking apple red.



























I would never make it as a toy maker. This was a lot of parts to fit together on a small scale.

HJ


----------



## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Looks like it all fits together and the flippy floppy part works. We did okay John.


----------



## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

I love it!

Now to find Tonka yellow paint....


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

kp91 said:


> I love it!
> 
> Now to find Tonka yellow paint....


My exact thought also , gotta be yellow


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

..


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

MEBCWD said:


> Looks like it all fits together and the flippy floppy part works. We did okay John.


Yes we did , Mike!!!! I made a couple "changes" to the front of the box and cab protector to make it a little sturdier. And theres a mistake on one of the fuel tanks (cap on wrong side) on the plans. But the basic parts all fit. You had it nailed pretty good.

Thanx again

HJ


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

kp91 said:


> I love it!
> 
> Now to find Tonka yellow paint....



My exact thought also , gotta be yellow - Rainman

I sprayed a scrap piece bright yellow and didn't really like it. Leaning towards bright red.

Maybe a duller shade of yellow might work. Don't know if I even want it to look like a Tonka cause I'll probably be buying him a couple of those for his birthday in March.

HJ


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

MEBCWD said:


> Looks like it all fits together and the flippy floppy part works. We did okay John.


You both did great. Nice design and nice construction working together to make a really cool toy that will be enjoyed for a long time.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Gaffboat said:


> You both did great. Nice design and nice construction working together to make a really cool toy that will be enjoyed for a long time.


ditto...


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok ,where's the linear actuator to raise and lower the box ?


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Figured I put a PTO on it.

HJ


----------



## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

I am sure Oliver has some pieces of ACME brand equipment you could use


----------



## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Brilliant piece of work and cooperation. Well done gentlemen.

Forget the "tonka" yellow this need to be CAT yellow.


----------



## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

RÖENTGEEP said:


> I guess its a Toy. :wink:


And the winner was! :wink:


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

My Grandson!!

HJ


----------



## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

honesttjohn said:


> My Grandson!!
> 
> HJ


Congrats to the winner but we still need to see the finished product!


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Got 4 coats of glue/water on the pieces and sanded. Getting ready to start spray painting. still undecided which color. I got a week to get er done.

HJ


----------



## LDBecker (Jun 16, 2015)

honesttjohn said:


> Got 4 coats of glue/water on the pieces and sanded. Getting ready to start spray painting. still undecided which color. I got a week to get er done.
> 
> 
> 
> HJ




Been following the adventure (with my own grandson in mind!) - got a dumb question... Why water/glue and not sanding sealer or primer? I've heard of that, but always wondered what it was about. I have also heard of people doing the w/g routine BEFORE cnc'ing the piece to keep the cuts more crisp on wood that frays easily...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Larry,

Joat clued me in on the w/g. I took 3 pieces of scrap and primed and spray painted one piece, W/g and sanded the second and painted, and just painted the 3rd piece.

The water and glue piece was actually the smoothest deepest finish. Plus, I think the water and glue mixture seals the wood and prevents splintering some. 


I will pre-lacquer a piece of wood sometimes before carving text on it. Prevents chip out some, and limits bleeding when painting the letters.

HJ


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Now THAT'S Yellow!*



kp91 said:


> I love it!
> 
> Now to find Tonka yellow paint....


How about Caterpillar Yellow touch up paint?
https://www.grainger.com/product/KRYLON-16-oz-Equipment-Touch-Up-Paint-6KGZ9


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

I'm sure no Scottart when it comes to paint. This is about all I can do with it. Gonna clearcoat just the way it is. Got to send it out early this week to be there when we get to NC the end of the week. HD didn't have any yellow paint that I liked.

It's nearly 2 feet long and 15 inches high with the box down.






































HJ


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Wow it dam near blinded me John lol. Nice job , looks really good


----------



## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Well done. Sure to please.


----------



## LDBecker (Jun 16, 2015)

So... you went with a SUBTLE red, I see... hehe - very nicely done.

I was just thinking about toy making when my grandson was over today - and how to paint them. The research I did pointed to coating with shellac. Never worked with that... I know - how can I call myself a woodworker and never used shellac? But that part actually scares me. Don't want to put something on that can cause problems, or allergic reactions (nut-based finishes?). Here's a link to a Wood Magazine article by Michael Dresdner, who I have come to think of as a go-to-guy for finishing questions: How to Seal a Toy Project with Shellac, Paste Wax, and Acrylic Paint / Rockler How-to

Anyway, an interesting read... VERY NICE JOB!!!!!


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Larry,

All finishes (non industrial) sold today in the USA are non toxic and safe for human contact, per federal law. Stick with name brands and you should be fine.

The people that made this set of plans recommend either Krylon or Rustoleum spray paint. I used Rustoleoum 2x and 2X clear gloss. The silver was brushed on.

PM me your direct email. 

HJ


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

UPS didn't damage it.

MEBCWD was right, though. He played with the bubble wrap and shredded cardboard packing - and then sat in it first.




























HJ


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Oh boy, good times straight ahead! Good job, John. I see a happy camper in your pics.


----------



## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

He is like my great granddaughter, got to get into it to make sure it fits. She just got a set of 4 puzzles that store in a box like drawers and first thing she did was yank the puzzles out, turned it open side up and stepped inside.

Just remember kids like this grow up to have great imaginations!


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Thanks for sharing the pictures. I'd love a truck like that too.


----------

