# Craftsman Fixed and Plunge Base Combo Review.....



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

My wife picked me up a copy of Router and Power Woodworking magazine and they had a review of the new Craftsman 2HP plunge/fixed base combo. For anyone interested in this router I will catch the highlights of the review but honestly, there wasn't anything they didn't like about this router. 

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...BV_EngineID=ccchaddlikjjleicefecemldffidfko.0

Motor is 11 Amp sealed made from good quality materials featuring diecast aluminum upper and lower housings. Runs smoothly and quietly and electronic feedback holds any speed from 12,000 to 25,000 rpm. Switch is easy to reach and the illuminated power switch is a nice safety feature. 3 LED lights in the underside of the motor illuminate the workpiece nicely and a nice feature. 

Plunge base has knobs on both bases which the review likes and so do I on my dewalt router. Plunge bars have gaitors on them to keep the dust out and the action is very smooth. The large lever lock holds any depth setting firmly. A depth rod and 3 position turret set it easily and a micro adjustment can make 1/64 fine settings and can be adjusted from the top of the table if mounted in one. 

Fixed base is a positive cam locking buckle system which secures the router at the desired height to give reuire depth of cut and prevents self adjusting during use. Micro adjustment of 1/64 is done by turning the adjustment knob and gross adjustments of 1/2 or more than be made pushing a button to bypass the rack and pinion. Transparent dust port is included along with a fence. 

Well balanced in both bases and is light enough for extended hand held use but weighty enough to hold a good cut. Well designed and easy to set up. They liked the router a lot and thought the router has the build quality of much more expensive routers. A real quality tool for a very affordable price. 

or so they say... but when I can.. I will find out for myself  . 

Corey


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Corey,

Looks like a great router at a great price. If I find I need to add another router at some point, I'll have to take a hard look at this one.

BTW..... do you think the name tag and serial number can be removed?


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## Ray Dockrey (Jun 19, 2007)

I gave a small review on just the motor in the table mounted router forum the other day. The router is very strong and smooth. I liked it so much that I went out and bought another one for hand help operation. I used it yesterday on my new Porter Cable dovetail jig and I was quite impressed with it. The only thing I have to get used to is the soft start. It takes longer to come up to speed then the other routers I have with soft start. Sears has the fixed base on sale for $70. I don't know how the longevity is going to be but so far I am very impressed.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bob N said:


> Corey,
> 
> Looks like a great router at a great price. If I find I need to add another router at some point, I'll have to take a hard look at this one.
> 
> BTW..... do you think the name tag and serial number can be removed?


Bob, Bob Bob..... what are we going to do with you! 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ray

You may also want to read the 2 links below ▼

http://www.routerforums.com/39447-post21.html
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/4063-model-320-17542-table-routing.html


Bj 





Ray Dockrey said:


> I gave a small review on just the motor in the table mounted router forum the other day. The router is very strong and smooth. I liked it so much that I went out and bought another one for hand help operation. I used it yesterday on my new Porter Cable dovetail jig and I was quite impressed with it. The only thing I have to get used to is the soft start. It takes longer to come up to speed then the other routers I have with soft start. Sears has the fixed base on sale for $70. I don't know how the longevity is going to be but so far I am very impressed.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ray
> 
> You may also want to read the 2 links below ▼
> 
> ...


Damn BJ, I forgot you did that very complete review. Sorry about that. Oh well it's good to know others outside this forum think it's a good'n as well though. Seems like Craftsman can put together a decent product when they want too! The band saws are nice and they have some decent table saws again. 

Corey


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## Ray Dockrey (Jun 19, 2007)

Hey BJ,

It was actually thoses two reviews that swayed me to get one when I realized that the router I had wouldn't work with the lift I bought. LIke I siad, I liked it so much that I wanted to say how well it worked using it freehand so I bought another one. I didn't need the plunge base as I have the DeWalt three base set but I have been using the Sears just to see how it holds up and it has a nice balance to it. 

I posted my reviews so people could see that there really was something to this router since you and a few people have had sucess with it to.

I will continue to post updates as I have quite a bit more cabinets and projects to complete.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ray

Thanks and please do,, 
I'm also sold on the router and I have two of them also my son was thinking about getting a new one or two for work (Car Toys ) and it took a hard look at it today and it looks like they have sold 4 more to him and Car Toys , they have two big 3HP Porter Cable and the guys have put them to hell and back a time or too... 
and I told him the Sears will back it up like they do on all the tools they sale...

It like the fac that they could use a standard drop cord with it because it only pulls 11amps. at full draw...


Bj


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

who make's those routers for sears I don't belive they make them I belive all sears does is make money ? just wondering thanks del


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

We see features from Ridgid and PC on these routers, not sure who is building them. For the price it doesn't really matter.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just as a side note ***

At one time I sold Craftsman hand tools and Snap-On hand tools and a buddy was down at CF & I steel and they where making Craftsman tools and Snap-On tools the same day and the steel they used was the same for both just a diff. mold, my buddy said the Q.C. for the Snap-On was better,, they would kick out 3 or 4 out of 10 for the Snap-On and maybe one for the Craftsman out of 10,,,but the same steel in both brand names.....so to say it maybe the same thing for this new Craftsman router.. 

Bj


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## Ray Dockrey (Jun 19, 2007)

I agree as above that it doesn't really matter who is making it for them but I believe it is Black and Decker. This looks a lot like some of the pieces from Porter Cable. The Ridgid looks almost identical to the Ryobi as far as the raising mechanism on the fixed base version. To me the only similarity to the Ridgid is the LED lighting.


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## CManinLa (Aug 22, 2007)

Hi,

I'm new to the forum & new to woodworking. I have always seen the great things one can to with a router & finally purchased my first routher this week. I got the Craftsman 17543 combo talked about here. Glad to see it's a respectable unit.

I finally took it out of the box tonight. Read the instructions & tried to use my first bit. Came across a few questions. Maybe someone can clear things up.

1. Instructions say to loosen collet/nut & put cutter bit shank in. When I did that with the collet/nut that was delivered on the router....it would not tighten on the shank. I bought the Craftsman 30 bit set & used the 1/2 in. bead & cove. I looked in the book & didn't see anything about the other collet included in the box. I assume that was the 1/4 inch & since I was using the 1/2 bit, didn't need it. I changed it out & it close tightly. Guess first question would be......was the collet delivered the 1/2 collet & why didn't my 1/2 in. bead & cove not fit?

2. The 1/2in bead & cove is larger than 1 1/4 in diameter. I was going to ask this question...but I see on 13 of page 12, the sub-base will not allow anything larger than 1 1/4 inches. Can I not use these large bits? Can the sub-base be removed? Is that advisible? Can I only use large bits on a router table when the base is not used?

Anyway....didn't want to do anything stupid, decided to step back, grab a beer, re-read the manual & try again tomorrow. In the mean time....I came across your forum. 

Thanks to everyone who contributes & makes these forums so informative.

CMan


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Cman, a bunch of the guys here have bought this unit and love it. I got the non VS one last night with just the plunge base. DIdn't realize it was just a single speed but I have another Dewalt 2 base combo that I use as well. This router has a smoother plunge than my dewalt... My Dewalt still is the most comfortable router I have used, but I like the features and bang for the buck with the new Craftsmans. Enjoy your new router!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi CMan

The Craftsman combo comes with the 1/4" and the 1/2" collet nuts,,,because the router is new take the nut all the way off the router and place in the bit you want to use, push the bit in the but just so the base of the bit comes out of the botton of the collet nut then screw it back on the router then crank it down.besure to push in the lock pin.

They don't want you to use any bit over 1 1/4" in dia. in the plunge base/standard base, that's alot of steel spining below the base BUT you can make a new base plate quick and easy with some 1/4" plastic that will let you use bigger bits but don't go over 2",,that's say put a 2 1/2" hole in the new base plate..use the base plate that came with the router to get the lay out for the center hole and the mounting screws.

It's best to use a router table for any thing that's over 2" dia. 


Bj


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

CManinLa said:


> Guess first question would be......was the collet delivered the 1/2 collet & why didn't my 1/2 in. bead & cove not fit?


Hi CMan, The 1/2" most likely refers to the radius of the cove and bead cut that the bit produces. Most suppliers have bits like that with either 1/4" or 1/2" collets.


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## CManinLa (Aug 22, 2007)

Rusty, you are correct. After looking the bit set over more closely, appears the 30 bit set sold by Craftsman is 1/4" shank. When I saw the 1/4 & 1/2 on the bits, I thought that was the shank size. The shank is 1/4" & the size listed by the bit is the size of the cut.

I'm learning new stuff already. That also explains why the bit would not fit the first time I tried. The 1/2" collet was installed in the unit & I tried to put a 1/4" shank bit in the collet. It's all coming together now.

Thanks for the input. I may get a piece of wood routed tonight.


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## CManinLa (Aug 22, 2007)

Got into my shop (garage) today & played a little more with the Craftsman router. Since I'm new to everything, everything I do is a learning experience. As mentioned before, the Craftsman sub-base only has a 1 1/4" hole & cannot use bits greater in diameter than 1 1/4". 

I took bobj3's advice & decided to make my own sub-base. I bought a sheet of acrylic at the depot & began to make a new sub-base. Wasn't anything I'd brag about but it's functional. Since I didn't have counter sink drill bits, I picked up a set of those & a new set of jigsaw blades. I cut a square out of the acrylic & drilled a hole in the center & tried to make a circle with the jigsaw. I found the acrylic a little difficult to work with. As the bits & blade warm, the acrylic stuck. After using sandpaper, a dremel & a drill bit to somewhat round out the center, I was able to get it onto the base. Like I said...not pretty but functional.

So at the end of the day, I have a few new items in my tool box & new sub-base for my router. I would like to do a better job cutting & fitting when using acrylic. Does anyone have any suggestions, tips or expertise dealing with acrylics.

Thanks again,
CMan


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cman

acrylics = slow and easy, in and out of the cut let it cool down and then back to cutting it....need to whatch the end of the cut don't force it or it will crack out on the bottom side...ABS works better for base plates...
If you have a scroll saw it works great for cutting all types of plastic....and number 5 blade works well...

Bj 


==========


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## CManinLa (Aug 22, 2007)

Thanks Bob. I bought a Bosch T101A blade which is supposed to be good for plexiglass. Where can I buy ABS? I searched the Depot & Lowes & don't get a hit on ABS. Is it know by another name?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cman

Plastic supply company in your town,, most have cut offs cheap...

The Bosch T101A blade is a great blade but not for plastic, it cuts to wide of a slot.plus it's hard to keep it on the track of the cir.line...I know you will think I'm nuts but if all you have is a jig saw use a metal blade in your jig saw....but b/4 you use it get a cup of water and take the blade to the grinding wheel and take alot of the back side of the blade off so it can turn on a dime...get one or two of the cheap blades to rework them...but you must keep the blade cool to the touch.. 

ABS below and other types

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/6678-40mm-guides-templates-more-6981.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/6669-40mm-guides-templates-more-6965.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/5232-40mm-guides-templates-more.html


CraftsMan router with new ABS base plate,this one is a old mouse pad I had in the computer room..  about 8" in dia.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/guide-bushings-templates/7049-harry-tom-bobj-others-7139.jpg


Just a tip how to remove the back side of the metal blade and keep it cool ,two hardwood blocks, use a pair of vise grips, soke the wood and then grind away, put it back in the water from time to time,,to keep it cool...the wood will act like a heat sink....

=============


CManinLa said:


> Thanks Bob. I bought a Bosch T101A blade which is supposed to be good for plexiglass. Where can I buy ABS? I searched the Depot & Lowes & don't get a hit on ABS. Is it know by another name?


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## bsee (Sep 30, 2007)

What about the new "professional" version at 12.5 amps and 2.25 hp? It has the same speed ratings of 12K - 25K. What I wonder is if 12K is slow enough for a low speed where some others in this class go as slow as 8K. Maybe it doesn't matter because you shouldn't really be throwing 3+" bits around with only 2.25 hp?


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bsee said:


> What about the new "professional" version at 12.5 amps and 2.25 hp? It has the same speed ratings of 12K - 25K. What I wonder is if 12K is slow enough for a low speed where some others in this class go as slow as 8K. Maybe it doesn't matter because you shouldn't really be throwing 3+" bits around with only 2.25 hp?


It's basically the same design router I think. The combo is a better value with the fixed and plunge base I think. Your right, on a regular basis you shouldn't be slinging those big bits like that. 

Oh.. and welcome to the forums Bsee! Glad to have you here!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

I'm not to sure what came 1st. the 3 1/2" bits or the 3 1/4HP routers to turn them.
I think it was the bits  maybe 3" 


I have used a 1 1/2 HP/1 3/4HP PC routers to spin them for a long time...it just can't do the job in one pass like the 3 1/4HP can do...

Most of the new routers come with a speed control built in and you can't use the after market router speed control on them ,12,ooo rpm is a bit fast but if you have the guts well..just a note about speed of a router(s), I have a RPM tack and I do check the speed of the routers from time to time and most turn less than what it's marked on the router..( speed control )

Talking about speed most drill press tools turn less than what they are marked as well...off by 15 to 20% then norm...(lower than taged )


==========


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## bsee (Sep 30, 2007)

Thanks for the welcome. I've been lurking a while. I've had my heart mostly set on the DeWalt three base kit and have just been waiting for a good sale to come around, like the $50 rebate. I almost picked up the Craftsman 26620 two base kit on closeout and I have been looking at the new "Pro" kit as well. I can't say that the D-handle feels as comfy as the DeWalt version and the cord was kind of tight, but it looks like a good value. I will look at the tools more closely again in the next day or two and maybe make a decision. If the D-handle doesn't feel good in the hand, the kit is a waste of money.

My suspicion is that these new motors don't have the torque to run well at 8K for whatever reason. Maybe the old ones weren't so effective at that speed either so they just tweaked it, I don't know.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

BJ I too have used 1 1/2 HP router to swing some big bits and they were 1/4 shanks. I made some cabinet doors for a hutch I made sometime ago. No panel raising but rail and stiles... but it scared the yoohoo out of me  but I got it done.  

Bsee- I have the Dewalt DW 618 router. I really like it and have been able to compare it to the Craftsman. The Dewalt due to it's low center of gravity is the most compact and comfortable router I have used. I really like it but I do not have the D-handle. Just the fixed and plunge bases. I also like how the cord attaches and detatches on the Dewalt. The new Craftsman does not have the low center of gravity but is lighter and I also noticed that it has the smoothest plunge of any of my routers. The Cman has a good DC chute with it like the Dewalt and the Craftsman has a neat feature with the LED work lights and they work! 

If you really like the Dewalt and you can swing it I would opt for it and you can always get the Craftsman as a back up later. I have found with my operations that have several routers available really helps in set up etc. when you only have so much time and I have different routers set up with different base plates to allow specific jobs. 

Good luck! 

Corey


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## bsee (Sep 30, 2007)

You guys talk about spinning big bits with little routers, and that's just fine. The issue isn't bit size versus hp. The issues are bit size versus speed and amount of wood you're trying to remove in a pass versus hp. 

Big bit, little hp, and a reasonable RPM speed should work just fine, right? So, the question still remains, would you spin a 3+ inch bit in the new Craftsman Pro router at 12K RPM? The hp thing is no big deal since the worst case is multiple passes to get a clean cut.

Corey, is lighter a good thing? I think the DeWalt being heavier with a low center of gravity should be more controllable. I will probably do 75-80% of my routing in the table and most of the rest free hand with the D-handle. I'm not sure how much I will be using the plunge base, at least for traditional plunge jobs.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bsee said:


> Corey, is lighter a good thing? I think the DeWalt being heavier with a low center of gravity should be more controllable. I will probably do 75-80% of my routing in the table and most of the rest free hand with the D-handle. I'm not sure how much I will be using the plunge base, at least for traditional plunge jobs.


I tell yah, the older I get the more I like lighter  For hand routing I do like lighter... but the Dewalt while heavier is just a comfortable router to use in my opinion. The Craftsman for the features and price is just an exceptional value. 

Corey


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Just my .02 on the 17543 combo
After hearing it so highly recommended on here - 
I broke down and picked one up this weekend
I've thought about moving up to a 1/2" shank machine for some time - but never really _needed_ to. 
Haven't found anything I needed to do my 1.5hp Ryobi couldn't handle.
But - at that price point --
I could finally justify the investment for possible future needs.

Haven't really _tested _it yet -- just some rabbets and lap joints in pine using 1/4" shank bits. I DID like that the extra power let me make deeper cuts without straining the motor -- and I *LOVE* the soft start.

The only real negative I have seen so far is that it is VERY top-heavy (as has been alluded to by others) - that plus the small handles made it about the most *un*comfortable router I have ever held.

*But* -- *if* it does everything else as well as has been reported on here -- 
I can deal with that minor issue. Just takes some getting used to.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The Craftsman 26620 router is a Bosch 1617 clone and made by Bosch. The main difference is it comes with a Craftsman style sub base plate and use's the flimsy Craftsman plastic guide bushings.
When comparing a DeWalt, Craftsman and for that matter most combo kits you should realize that the controls work differently between them. Some models have a plunge that locks when you push the lever down, on other models this is how they release. This is why it is so important to get a router in your hands before you lay out the money. You want to be sure you are comfortable with its operation before you buy.


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## bsee (Sep 30, 2007)

Mike, the 26620 is discontinued and on closeout just about everywhere it still exists. This thread was started about the $99 "regular" Craftsman 11 amp two base kit that goes by number 17543. The 12.5 amp "Pro" version I asked about is the replacement to the 26620 that is sold in a three base combo for $199 as number 28084.

That said, I totally agree with you about feel, and sort of disagree with Cowboy. I don't want to get used to an uncomfortable set of handles. I want a router that's going to stay planted and be fully in control without any extra effort. I will put my hands on a DeWalt and a Craftsman today while considering the weight, balance and comfort that both afford. Top heavy, in particular, sounds like a bad thing for a router.

-bob


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bsee said:


> . . . That said, I totally agree with you about feel, and sort of disagree with Cowboy. I don't want to get used to an uncomfortable set of handles. I want a router that's going to stay planted and be fully in control without any extra effort. . . .
> -bob


I don't think we disagree at all - not on any basic point - 
We totally agree on not wanting to use a tool we didn't feel like we were in full control of. If I had felt that way -- it would be back on the Sears shelf today - because well over half of the router work I do is hand held.

As for the handles -- It's like a new pair of boots -- the first time you put them on they are almost never going to be as comfortable as the old workhorses you wore into the store. It's all in what you are used to.

As for my top heavy comment -- 
I noticed that I as I was tlilting it to give it the once over.
In actual use -- with the router vertical and resting flat on the workpiece -- I did not notice it at all and felt no lack of control.
The only time I notice it is with the router tilted -- and with the plunge base -- I shouldn't have any need to do that (so they tell me - this is the first one I have owned  .

I suspect -- at most -- we 'disagree' on the level of discomfort we consider a deal breaker. My bar is not set has high as some in that regard -- because where some of you use routhers 8 hours a day --- I may use one 8 hours a month. So -- for the price savings -- I am willing to adjust my grip.
:sold: 
But - yes - handling a tool before you buy it is always a good idea - and I broke one of my own rules this time by not doing it.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

"and I LOVE the soft start." 

Cowboy, I have 3 soft start routers and the craftsman is what I call a true slow start...lol.. that thing is like a 5 ton truck in granny gear. Winds up pretty guick to top end... mine vibrates a slight amount at very top end... 

Corey


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

challagan said:


> "and I LOVE the soft start."
> 
> Cowboy, I have 3 soft start routers and the craftsman is what I call a true slow start...lol.. that thing is like a 5 ton truck in granny gear. Winds up pretty guick to top end... mine vibrates a slight amount at very top end...
> 
> Corey


Well - its the first one I have had -- 
so I really have nothing to compare it to except the loud harsh start of my others --- 
I wouldn't have bought a new router JUST to get that - but having bought one -
- I really do _LIKE_ that feature.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bob, I understand about the 26620, and that it is not the feature of this thread. I only stated the important information for comparison purposes. The routers this thread is based upon seem to be made by the "OYG" company.(A mating of Black & Decker/DeWalt/Porter Cable features) There is no question about value for the money. So far everyone is pleased with the product. I am looking forward to trying one to see how they feel to me.


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## bsee (Sep 30, 2007)

When I stopped into the Sears in Warwick, RI this afternoon, they still had 3 of the 26620 kits. That's because they still had them marked at $195 on the shelf. I should have bought one - they were in the computer for $118. Once they re-mark them, they'll be gone pretty quickly. 

I did put my hands on the 28084, too. I confirmed my belief that the D-handle is not a match to my hand like the DeWalt version is. It must have been designed by someone with larger hands. The weight balance was higher because the overall height of the unit is taller with the collet set for any given depth. I also didn't like the position of the power switch. It falls in between the hands and too high to reach while retaining control of the handles. The DeWalt is immediately above one handle and can be more easily reached with the thumb. Finally, I didn't like the depth adjustment. I'm sure it's accurate, it just has a mechanism that will allow the control knob to run out of range before the router does if you're not paying attention.

A lot of people are really going to like this thing, but I guess it just isn't for me.


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## neoshed (Oct 15, 2007)

I just bought the 17543 the other day. I cant complain at all for 89.99.

I was going to buy the craftsman pro router table ( ie the bosch one) but thought I go look at teh blue box to see if it was cheaper. The bosch version was 10 cheaper and came with a pair of featherboards so I bought it thinking I had a result. Put the table together and went to mount the router only to find the nice aluminium plate doesnt match up...gah.

So I'm sitting here wondering do I try to to drill the plate for it or find a adaptor plate? I just looked up the price for the bosch phenolic plat and it's $40. I guess if I'd bought the craftsman one it would have fit right away.


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## neoshed (Oct 15, 2007)

Oops......jumped the gun.

I have 2 holes that line up perfectly. Are 2 screws sufficient to mount the router or do I need to drill for a third?


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

neoshed said:


> Oops......jumped the gun.
> 
> I have 2 holes that line up perfectly. Are 2 screws sufficient to mount the router or do I need to drill for a third?



Drill the third. Make sure the bit is centered in the opening.


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## neoshed (Oct 15, 2007)

Ok then mate. I guess some loctite wouldn't be a bad idea either.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

neoshed said:


> I just bought the 17543 the other day. I cant complain at all for 89.99.. . . I guess if I'd bought the craftsman one it would have fit right away.


NOT necessarily a safe assumption -
I bought a Ryobi router at the Orange box not too long ago -- and went back later looking at their router tables-- They had a basic Ryobi table with some handy accessories at a good price and I ALMOST bought it -- until I noticed it was bored for a 3 hole base -- and mine had 4.
So much for brand consistancy.

But back to the 17543 -
I bought one a few weeks ago and just finished a mantel that gave me an excuse to play a little with it a little more.
Confirmed most of my initial impressions listed earlier.
Wish it DID have a D handle -- my hands like those better.

The only BIG issue I have is the position of the power switch --
I *don't like* not being able to reach it with both hands on the handles.
I'm thinking of getting a 'dead-man' foot switch for my router table --
May just use that for hand held work too.
For that matter --
Since I mainly bought the Craftsman for its half inch collet and the ability to use larger bits for molding etc ----
It may spend most of its time in my table.
That eliminates all three negatives.

Keep the Ryobi for handheld work.


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## neoshed (Oct 15, 2007)

you could be right cowboy....anyways I only have to do one hole as it's centred with the two that fit.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

neoshed said:


> you could be right cowboy....anyways I only have to do one hole as it's centred with the two that fit.


That's what I'm sayin  
You might have had that same work -- or more -- to do even if you had bought the Craftsman one.

Glad it was that easy for you.
I wound up building my own -- and by the time I got through tweaking it --
It cost more than a commercial one.


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## neoshed (Oct 15, 2007)

well for the money the bosch one was vs me building it I think I saved money with the bosch


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## herbfellows (Oct 24, 2007)

You probably already know this, but the price of 1/4 in and 1/2 in is usually exactly the same. Better off with 1/2 in for 99 % of work.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

neoshed said:


> well for the money the bosch one was vs me building it I think I saved money with the bosch


I'm willing to bet you did -- 
I know I would have - and it would have definitely been lighter -
I have a bad habit of tweaking and adding 'just one more thing' until . . . .


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## herbfellows (Oct 24, 2007)

Cman, I'm in the same boat as you are, a newbie. If I understand correctly, you were asking if you could remove the sub base for use in the router table? I think you're supposed to, at least I did. The first time I set it up I didn't and then I finally read a blurb somewhere that said you should. I think this is one of those things that the regulars find to be so basic that they don't even mention it, it's assumed. Of course, you and I assume nothing! I bought the two base Bosch and the two base Craftsman because I got it on sale for about $85. I figured at that price, I'll always have a back up, so I'm interested in hearing about your experiences in particular as we are both at the same 'skill level'; none! (but soon to be experts, I'm sure !)


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Hmmm.. never heard of them Tim other than it sounds similar to Ryobi's parent company which is OTT or OTI something like that. I wonder if that is the US distributor branch of that company. 

Corey


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Tim, Sears jobs out different models to different companies, so you never know for sure. One exception is the discontinued 26620 which is a clone of the Bosch 1617 and built by Bosch.


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## Den69RS96 (Jan 3, 2008)

I just received the 17543 router for Christmas. I quickly noticed the small base. I checked Sears website and found that they offer 6 different sub bases for the fixed based and 6 different sub bases for the plunge for the 17543 router combo so you can fit up to a 3 inch bit if neccessary. These will fit the bill if you don't want to make your own bases. Each base package is $19.99 so for both the fixed and plunge your looking at $40. I think its kinda of crappy that you have to buy different bases so you can use larger bits, but I think the router combo is still a pretty good deal. I found the bases on sears website under tools/power tool accessories/router table and attachments.


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