# TS / Router / Mortise Combo PART1



## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

This is my new TS Top / Router / Mortise & Tenon combination jig, a complete package LOL and it works very well too.

Now it’s not anything as complicated as John did with his “New Build / CNC Router” but it serves my present needs. Although John’s post is fairly old (06/30/2008), I just notice it now and since I was really impressed with his work that’s why I mentioned here.

Now back to my simple project. The table top is build with 2 pieces of 1/2” MDF which are glued together; the size of the table is 27”x 46”. Following are the comments for some pictures:

#4. The insert template I made it myself with a compass on a piece of 1/2” MDF and then used the router to route the 2 ends.

#5. Having now the insert made, I use a 1/2” OD bushing along with a 1/4” straight bit to make the required template for the opening on the table top. To cut the opening I used 1” OD bushing along with a 1/4” straight bit. This combination provides a perfect fit.

#7. The aluminum flat bars are 1/4” thick and are placed even on the top of the bottom piece. They are required to hold the insert which bolts into these bars with four #10 x 7/8” long machine screws.

#9. The router insert template was made as per above #5.

#11. The aluminum square tube which the bolts are thru is 1/2” square by 1/16” thick. These square tubes are cut to fit precisely between the ribs of the Delta cast iron top. Actually when the top is aligned to the blade and I screw the wing nuts, the nuts will pull tight the square tubes into the ribs. That’s the only way to keep the top from moving and at the same time is very easy to dismantle the top and take it to the job site. The bolts are 1/4”-20 by 4” long.

#12. All the bolts which are holding the bottom piece and the supports for the fence are sitting on top of the bottom piece with flat washers. Therefore to have the top piece sitting flat on the bottom piece, recesses have to be made in order for the bolt heads to go inside there

#13. Here is the finished project. The mortise jig on the left side of the table is a piece of 1/4” Hardboard 18” x 8”. It is attached even to the table top with two 1/8” x 1-1/2” long machine screws with wing nuts and it is removable. Off the center there is an opening 2.5”x 4.5”. 1/4” Hardboard may sound light but rest assured it’s very solid for this application.

#17. This is a design I got from the excellent ShpNotes magazine which I modified to suite my needs. This assembly is also removable and adjustable horizontally to suite different wood thickness. You can see the router right behind it.

#18. This is the key to the Mortise Jig. A template made out of 1/8” Hardboard which slides horizontally. Most of the Mortise / Tenons I need are 3/8” thick and so I made two templates which I use with a 5/8” bushing and a 3/8” straight bit. I just mark the center line on my stock, stick it on the jig under, align the center line of the template with the center line of the stock and route the Mortise. For the left / right stops I clamp a piece of 1”x 2” on each side as needed. 

#20. This is the Tenon Template. I use it with a 5/8” bushing and a 3/8” straight bit. The only minor problem is the depth. With the 1” cutting length bit I have I can only cut a 1/2” long Tenon. I need a longer bit which I will get soon. In any case I use floating Tenons for now but eventually I would like to make my own Tenons.

#23. The other minor and confusing problem I have is that if I make the Mortise with a 3/8” bit 1/4” shank the Tenon fits just right and snug; but if I make the Mortise with a 3/8” bit 1/2” shank the Tenos is loose by about 1/32”. Right now I can’t figure this out.


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## cdndave (Apr 2, 2009)

Hey Nick

nice work! I got your PM, but I don't have enough posts yet to be able to reply to you.

If you want to communicate send me another PM with your email, I'm not too far from you!

Dave


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