# New to wood working



## italian biker (May 21, 2008)

Hello all, I inherited a Craftsman router, Craftsman table also. Along with that inheritance came my father's handguns. I would like to learn to make some nice boxes for them with either box or dovetail joints. I'm fairly mechanical, good with tools, but never dived into the intricate stuff. I've built benches, decks, work tables, etc.., but never decorative stuff. 
What I want to do is have a nice outer box, with a raised inlay to shape of the handgun, covered with felt. I plan on doing the shaped inlay on the router with a cutting bit using some cheap soft laminate, then cover with felt. And a hinged lid. The outer box is what I'm not sure what would be a good type of wood to use, and should it only be glued with out finishing nails. Im not thrilled with that router table though. I'm thinking about a new one.


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Welcome italian biker!

This site is a great resource for learning!

Have a great day
John


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

italian biker said:


> Hello all, I inherited a Craftsman router, Craftsman table also. Along with that inheritance came my father's handguns. I would like to learn to make some nice boxes for them with either box or dovetail joints. I'm fairly mechanical, good with tools, but never dived into the intricate stuff. I've built benches, decks, work tables, etc.., but never decorative stuff.
> What I want to do is have a nice outer box, with a raised inlay to shape of the handgun, covered with felt. I plan on doing the shaped inlay on the router with a cutting bit using some cheap soft laminate, then cover with felt. And a hinged lid. The outer box is what I'm not sure what would be a good type of wood to use, and should it only be glued with out finishing nails. Im not thrilled with that router table though. I'm thinking about a new one.


Hi, 
Welcome to the router forums.  To add to what John said, this is the best place for info. 

For your jointery, I would suggest starting out with box joints. These are quite simple and a little bit less frustrating to get right than dovetails. I don't do and havent' done much inlay work so I'll leave that up the others with better experience.  
You can use any type of wood, depends on what type of grain/look you're after. Use glue and brads, NOT finishing nails.
Almost forgot, go to your local library or bookstore, browse around for some books on box making. These will not only give illistrations on the "how-to's" but also for looks and design(s) you may wish to use or create your own. 

We have many box makers here on the forums, they'll chime in soon.


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

Gidday italianbiker and welcome. One thing you might want to consider if lining your box for the handgun is to use flocking rather than felt, especially if there's a recess the same shape as the pistol. It's sprayed on (with a supplied hand pump) and makes a better job at following tricky contours. Take a look at;

www.donjer.com

I'd agree about the box joints to start, they're easier with a router and homemade jig.


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## italian biker (May 21, 2008)

Thanks for the info and the warm welcome.
NZ, now that you mention it, I have heard about that stuff before. I'm sure I've probably even seen it on something like a jewelry box. I will definitely start out with box joints. My fiance is good with finishes, as shes restored furniture quite a bit. I don't care for my router table all that much, because there isn't alot of range for the fence, and it's a cheapie craftsman. The miter gage moves loosely in the slot. In practicing on scrap, I think I would like a table with T channel, for both moving the work piece and for the fence and and a much better quality fence. During that practice I thought that it might be nice that if I'm work on something without the fence, that a row of T, parallel on each side of the bit might be handy at times.
What do you all think of that idea.


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## italian biker (May 21, 2008)

Not to sound ignorant, what's the difference between brads and finish nails?
Question two. I've seen a combination brad nailer/stapler device. Are these useful or is it better to have seperate devices?


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

Phew! Talk about two nations divided by a commom language  Brads are aka 'panel pins' for securing beading, moulding or panels and come in variety of lengths (3/8, 3/4 and 1') are the common ones and are meant to be driven below the surface and then filled over. I'm guessing that 'finish' nails are the same thing.


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

To my understanding, a brad and a finishing nail are in the same family and do the same job. 

They went to separete schools together!  

John


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi italian biker

Just my 2 cents 

When you use a brad nailer you don't want to see the hole,many of the nailers/combo nailers will put in brads, but will also put in a dent that you don't want to see or need to fill the dent with junk...(wood filler) 

It's best to have a pin nailer that's made just for that job...they can put in 1/4" long to 1 " long the norm..and about the size of a paper clip wire or smaller..you dont want it to show or be proud of the stock when you put it in place, if you do it just right the wood fibers will fill the hole...they have almost no head to speak about...

Most finish nailers/brad use nails that have heads on them and are used to pull in the stock until the glue sets up...you may call it a min.clamp system if you like...

The right tool for the right job  elec.brad nailers work great for the light duty jobs but the air type work well also if you have a reg.guage on the tool to set the depth of the pin/brad...you don't want to use a 2 pound hammer to set one..just a tack hammer so to speak....



http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93749
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Tools-Gauge-Nailer-14012/dp/B000GFBABW/ref=pd_sim_hi_title_1
http://www.amazon.com/AccuSet-A109809-Variety-Gauge-Galvanized/dp/B00004YZQH/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009GZJDS/ref=pd_cp_hi_0?pf_rd_p=277661601&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B00028G38I&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=11ZMHWGAVJGKVV54PMRR

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italian biker said:


> Not to sound ignorant, what's the difference between brads and finish nails?
> Question two. I've seen a combination brad nailer/stapler device. Are these useful or is it better to have seperate devices?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The difference between pin nails, brads and finish nails is the diameter. Since this is going to be one of your first projects I would suggest you try building a "magic box." This is an easy project to master and looks very nice. Practice building a couple from the cheapest wood you can find then build your project from a nice hardwood like red oak or hickory. Search the forums to see the "magic box" plans.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

italian biker said:


> Not to sound ignorant, what's the difference between brads and finish nails?
> Question two. I've seen a combination brad nailer/stapler device. Are these useful or is it better to have seperate devices?


Combo's work.... ok. IMHO, these are junk, they use what's called a "clipped head". As Bj mentioned, this is where that hole comes from. I don't really care for the combo's. I prefer a single tool for a single purpose. It does add to the cost of tooling but, to get the end result in which I'm after, it's well worth it. For electric over pneumatics, I prefer the air. A simple adjustment to the air pressure and this controls the depth of which the pin/brad is driven.

I can't add too much more to what BJ and Mike both have said. Pins/brads = small diameter, easily hidden. Finish nails, are 'huge" and more than likely will cause splitting, also difficult to hide the hole they leave.

The most important advice that can be given is.... patience and have fun!!


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## jjciesla (Oct 20, 2007)

Might I suggest a Brad Pusher. A simple but very handy tool and less expensive. The barrel is spring loaded. Place the brad in, line it up and gently push the handle. I won’t leave a mark on hard woods and an almost non discernable mark on the soft woods. Obviously not a high production tool but very useful for brads. And because brads are very small you won’t be hitting your fingers with a hammer.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I agree with you most of this time BUT on this one well 

Pin Nails ,have no head,,,,,unlike the brad and finish nails, it's true they are very,very thin (pin nails) most have a little arrow on the clip to show how to put them in the gun..but a complete diff.animal from brad and finish nails... once in place it's very hard to see them..

It takes a very special nail gun to put them in place...most are about $100.oo to $250.oo but you can get one to do the job for about 40.oo dollars...and worth every dime when you are installing trim...making a picture frames,boxes,etc... a pin/brad/finish nail is a clamp, made to hold stock until the glue setups the norm.. but it can be used as a stand alone fastner as well...that's the neat thing about pin nails, it's hard to see them..  the shear on a steel pin is very,very high....


"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions." 
MIKE
Senior Moderator

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Mike said:


> The difference between pin nails, brads and finish nails is the diameter. Since this is going to be one of your first projects I would suggest you try building a "magic box." This is an easy project to master and looks very nice. Practice building a couple from the cheapest wood you can find then build your project from a nice hardwood like red oak or hickory. Search the forums to see the "magic box" plans.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

For most joinery for a box you don't need any brads, nails, staples, etc.


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## italian biker (May 21, 2008)

AxlMyk said:


> For most joinery for a box you don't need any brads, nails, staples, etc.


I would probably use brads to attach my inner laminate to the bottom with glue. I won't be doing any molding work, at least that I know of. I'm not a carpenter or in any construction trade. I want to build boxes and picture frames. Also, I will go with a pneumatic brad nailer. I'm curious as to what guage nailer I should get. I'm thinking 18. And I know Harbor Freight doesn't carry the best stuff, but for the amount I'd use it, does any one think a nailer from them for say 30 bucks is OK?


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## fibertech (May 7, 2005)

Check out the assortment at www.grizzly.com They have several and prices are close to Harbor Freight. -Derek


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I have a HF brad nailer. The O-rings leak, but it works OK. The Chinese make everything cheap.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi italian biker

The Harbor Freight ones are fine,,, I have 15 or so nailers ,some are HF,Grizzly,Senco,AirCo,Porter Cable,DeWalt,Craftsman, etc. and they all work fine but it's like your hammer collection, the right hammer for the right job..you don't want to use a framers hammer to put in a 18g brad nail..

But it sounds like you may want to pickup a nail set or two,they come in many sizes....it's a old tech tool but they work very well and are cheap.


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italian biker said:
 

> I would probably use brads to attach my inner laminate to the bottom with glue. I won't be doing any molding work, at least that I know of. I'm not a carpenter or in any construction trade. I want to build boxes and picture frames. Also, I will go with a pneumatic brad nailer. I'm curious as to what guage nailer I should get. I'm thinking 18. And I know Harbor Freight doesn't carry the best stuff, but for the amount I'd use it, does any one think a nailer from them for say 30 bucks is OK?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

HF is "OK". If you're not going to use it a whole lot, then definetly get a cheapie. The majority of air nailers are Craftsman but, my Grizzly's are closing the gap.  

18gauge IMHO is the most used. As has been said earlier, they only act like as a holding device 'til the glue/adhesive(s) dry/cure.


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