# Wondering A Lock Miter Bit



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

it has been suggested to me to acquire a lock miter bit for a certain project as well as other projedts in my woodworking shop.

I read on the web how difficult it is to set these bits up unless the thickness of the workpiece complies almost perfectly to a set up blocks. 

I am wondering if members that are familiar with this router bit feel like the bit is really so difficult to set up that I should forget it or not, I think that the challenge of setting it up is one that I want to try and probably will, but I would appreciate some input on the subject.

Jerry


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I know Harry has posted before on how he sets them up. If you search Google for CMT's downloadable catalog it has instructions in it for how to set one up without the blocks. It's just a matter of getting it close by measuring and then tweaking the adjustments on scrap the same size as what you want to rout until you get it right.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I know Harry has posted before on how he sets them up. If you search Google for CMT's downloadable catalog it has instructions in it for how to set one up without the blocks. It's just a matter of getting it close by measuring and then tweaking the adjustments on scrap the same size as what you want to rout until you get it right.


Makes perfect sense to me and is why I feel that I'm willing to give it a try. The height adjustment on my rounter in the Mast R lift is so precise that it just seems to me that that one could do exactly what you describe Charles.


Jerry


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

I right there with you, Jerry. I've got a project in mind that would be a prime candidate for one but the setup fears have kept me from going for it. I found this setup tutorial that seems about as straight forward as I think it could get.

Setting Up a Locking Miter Bit


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## PawPawRay (Apr 5, 2009)

This months Shopnote Mag has step by step instructions for setting up this bit.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

First of all Jerry there are at least three sizes of lock mitre bits covering; 12-16mm,
14-19mm and 19-28mm wood thicknesses. I sit the wood at the side of the bit, where it would be placed to commence routing, I then "squint" along the table so that I can set the height of the bit and the position of the fence. These settings are of course approximate and it then takes several test cuts on scrap wood in order to achieve a perfect result. After completing a perfect project I then make a test piece for quick set-up next time that I use the same thickness wood and with a thickness planer it is easy to duplicate the thickness. Even using the test piece very slight adjustments may still be necessary.
Like most things, practice makes perfect so, after your first perfect box, make several more and the process will no longer be a worry.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Take a look at this Jerry..

Infinity Cutting Tools Lock Miter setup guage. 

2-Pc. Lock Miter Master Jig Set - For 3/8 - 1-1/8 Stock-Carbide Router Bits | Router Bit Sets | Shaper Cutters | Saw Blades | Planer Knives | Jointer Knives | Infinity Cutting Tools

A couple of Youtube video's; 

Infinity Cutting Tools Lock Miter Master Jig - YouTube
Infinity Cutting Tools Lock Miter Master Jig - YouTube

PDF instructions on setup and use...

http://www.infinitytools.com/PDF/Lock Miter Master Manual.pdf


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## BCK (Feb 23, 2014)

been thinking on one of these myself, but setup was an issue in my mind...thanks to all who posted and explained etc...as this did help make my mind up to get one and give it a shot...thx


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

The Lock Miter Master setup jigs from Infinity Tools make setting up these bits very easy and they are well worth the cost. To use them you simply determine the exact center of your stock, place the jig on the lock miter bit (it's held in place by internal magnets), and then adjust the bit height until the line on the jig matches the center of your stock. You then set the position of your fence by using the top line on the lock miter jig to the center line of a piece of your stock held against the fence. When the bit-to-stock positioning is correct you will get perfect lock miter joints. The instructions for the Lock Miter Master jigs will also explain how to make offset joints and other cool tricks that you can do with lock miter bits and the Lock Miter Master setup jigs.

Charley


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

harrysin said:


> First of all Jerry there are at least three sizes of lock mitre bits covering; 12-16mm,
> 14-19mm and 19-28mm wood thicknesses. I sit the wood at the side of the bit, where it would be placed to commence routing, I then "squint" along the table so that I can set the height of the bit and the position of the fence. These settings are of course approximate and it then takes several test cuts on scrap wood in order to achieve a perfect result. After completing a perfect project I then make a test piece for quick set-up next time that I use the same thickness wood and with a thickness planer it is easy to duplicate the thickness. Even using the test piece very slight adjustments may still be necessary.
> Like most things, practice makes perfect so, after your first perfect box, make several more and the process will no longer be a worry.


Harry,
In this rare instance we both spot on the same page. You have described exactly what I envisioned having to do to use the bit. Saving the scrap set up and marking is is just what I described to another member before I read your post. Thanks for you confirmation of my thoughts on the matter.

Jerry


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Harry,
> In this rare instance we both spot on the same page. You have described exactly what I envisioned having to do to use the bit. Saving the scrap set up and marking is is just what I described to another member before I read your post. Thanks for you confirmation of my thoughts on the matter.
> 
> Jerry


Harry, 
After reading your post and agreewing so adamantly with you if discover the video on the infinity jig and their bits, so I took the cowards way out bought them. Hope that the jig works as well as the demos shows, will have to wait and see.

If anybody has not seen the demo you might want to go the their site and look at the demo.

Jerry


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## Selwyn Senior (Jan 11, 2014)

Jerry

I recently purchased this bit from Lee Valley and it came with a two page print out showing set up and common adjustments. My experience, and I'd love to hear from others, was a lot of frustration using it on end grain. I tried all of the usual methods but no luck. I also found it performed differently with different types of wood. Plywood with its various layers going opposite directions (for me) was a mess.

Hope all goes well for you.

Peter


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Selwyn Senior said:


> Jerry
> 
> I recently purchased this bit from Lee Valley and it came with a two page print out showing set up and common adjustments. My experience, and I'd love to hear from others, was a lot of frustration using it on end grain. I tried all of the usual methods but no luck. I also found it performed differently with different types of wood. Plywood with its various layers going opposite directions (for me) was a mess.
> 
> ...



Peter,
The obvious question for me is, "HOW DID IT WORK ON HARD WOOD CUTTIING EITH THE GRAIN"?

Also, to the attribute the problems that you had with the actual brand of bit or the concept of a miter lock bit. 

Jerry


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Selwyn Senior said:


> Jerry
> 
> I recently purchased this bit from Lee Valley and it came with a two page print out showing set up and common adjustments. My experience, and I'd love to hear from others, was a lot of frustration using it on end grain. I tried all of the usual methods but no luck. I also found it performed differently with different types of wood. Plywood with its various layers going opposite directions (for me) was a mess.
> 
> ...


Peter,
I found this you tube video in which the guy is making the cuts on end grain, the workpieces are faily wide, may near five inches, have you seen it and how does it compary to your results with end grain?

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...BZvQadXBEr91dXJ3w&sig2=DJEiQPAOp7iMOtb2voLlhg


Jerry


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

End grain cuts are tough but do able. The piece must remain stable thru the cut. When doing end grain there is a strong tendency to lift the piece when milling vertically. I solved this with a jig that slides along my fence while holding the material
Instead of the infinity jig I scribed a center line on my bit


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Selwyn Senior said:


> Jerry
> 
> I recently purchased this bit from Lee Valley and it came with a two page print out showing set up and common adjustments. My experience, and I'd love to hear from others, was a lot of frustration using it on end grain. I tried all of the usual methods but no luck. I also found it performed differently with different types of wood. Plywood with its various layers going opposite directions (for me) was a mess.
> 
> ...


I learned early on that poor quality ply wood like we get here does not make for good lock mitre joints, I also found that these joints are not good for MDF because the glue quickly soaks in giving no time for adjustments.


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## Selwyn Senior (Jan 11, 2014)

Jerry

The bit worked well when routing with the grain. Actually the set up wasn't too bad either. The bit from Lee Valley was $72.00 so it is a good quality bit. For me it's also the largest cutting surface I've used so I expect there to be a learning curve. I'll check out the video -thanks. I also like Bill's idea of a jig to hold the work.

Peter


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Selwyn Senior said:


> Jerry
> 
> The bit worked well when routing with the grain. Actually the set up wasn't too bad either. The bit from Lee Valley was $72.00 so it is a good quality bit. For me it's also the largest cutting surface I've used so I expect there to be a learning curve. I'll check out the video -thanks. I also like Bill's idea of a jig to hold the work.
> 
> Peter


Peter, I just wrote a long response to your recent post, it got lost when I tried to submit it so won't take the time to redo it, sure is frustrating when these things happen, but the jest of it was to do with making the cuts in seveal shallow passes instand of just a single pass. The method of being able to end up with bit in its proper position for the final cut was was part of the post. 

So, without going into all of that again, what do you think of the concept of making the cuts in several passes if you could end up with the final cut being at the correct setting?

Now let's see if this post will fly or not. Looks like it did, sure makes me wonder why the other one didn't.

If what I described on that first one works, I'll write about it, as it might be of value, will have to see.

Jerry


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Cuts in several passes are a no no because as you know the position of the fence is as critical as the height of the bit.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

harrysin said:


> Cuts in several passes are a no no because as you know the position of the fence is as critical as the height of the bit.


Harry,
I understand that, I'm saying that you have to have a method to end up with the final pass being made with the fence and height of the bit being perfectly in the proper position. If, and I stress if, that could be done, would you agree with value of making the shallow cuts?

Jerry


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Jerry, because I've never had such a problem, bearing in mind that I use a pusher to prevent breakout I wouldn't consider multiple cuts, it would be a real pain in the you know where. You must realize that probably hundreds of thousands of woodworkers around the world use these bits without encountering problems which I'm sure I would have heard of from not only my friends and acquaintances but also on the many forums that I'm involved with. Over the years I've used lock-mitres on MDF (once), Pine, Jarrah, American Oak, Sheoak and Tasmanian Oak.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

harrysin said:


> Jerry, because I've never had such a problem, bearing in mind that I use a pusher to prevent breakout I wouldn't consider multiple cuts, it would be a real pain in the you know where. You must realize that probably hundreds of thousands of woodworkers around the world use these bits without encountering problems which I'm sure I would have heard of from not only my friends and acquaintances but also on the many forums that I'm involved with. Over the years I've used lock-mitres on MDF (once), Pine, Jarrah, American Oak, Sheoak and Tasmanian Oak.


Harry,
I'm sure looking forward to learning how to use the Lock Miter Bit and do hope that the set up jig works as well as is shown in Infinitie's video demo. The concept opens a lot of new doors for me.

I will just have to try making the cuts in the normal manner, I was just talking about what I might try if I have trouble with cutting into end grain. Will have to see when the time comes. Peter's post just got to wondering about the matter, sounds like you have not encountered the problems that he did.

Jerry


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## straze (Mar 20, 2012)

I bought one of these bits last year and although it's a bit fiddly to set up it's well worth the effort.............one major problem is....I've now got boxes everywhere :lol:


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

straze said:


> I bought one of these bits last year and although it's a bit fiddly to set up it's well worth the effort.............one major problem is....I've now got boxes everywhere :lol:



Kevin,
Did you buy the Infinity jig to set the bit up with or did you set up without the jig?

Jerry


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

I just looked at a Whiteside Miter Lock bit on the web. The instructions for using the bit said that the edges of the pieces to be locked together need to be mitered on a TS before the profiles are cut on the router table. 

I have been of the opinion, not having the new bits in fist yet, that the bit not only cut the profile, but also cut it on an board that had not been cut to 45 degrees on the TS first.

Which way is it?

Jerry


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I've never bothered to pre-mitre Jerry. I'm sure with the set-up jig you won't have any problems at all, look on the bright side Jerry, just think of all the people in the world who have successfully made lock-mitre joints, do you really think that they are all brighter than you, of course they're not. I look forward to seeing your first box, complete with hinges!


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

harrysin said:


> I've never bothered to pre-mitre Jerry. I'm sure with the set-up jig you won't have any problems at all, look on the bright side Jerry, just think of all the people in the world who have successfully made lock-mitre joints, do you really think that they are all brighter than you, of course they're not. I look forward to seeing your first box, complete with hinges!



I have to agree with you Harry!!!!!!!!!!!!

Dick


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

harrysin said:


> I've never bothered to pre-mitre Jerry. I'm sure with the set-up jig you won't have any problems at all, look on the bright side Jerry, just think of all the people in the world who have successfully made lock-mitre joints, do you really think that they are all brighter than you, of course they're not. I look forward to seeing your first box, complete with hinges!



Thanks Harry,

I don't know about all the people that have used lock miter bits. Never heard of them until just recently. Just wondered after reading what I did on the Whiteside web site. I had been told by Dick Willis that the pre cut was not necessary, but then I read the instructions by Whiteside that got me confused, and as you know by now, it is very easy to confuse me on somethings in regard to wood working.

Jerry


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Jerry, if you take advice from those of us who have actually carried out the procedures in our answers you won't go far wrong. Master these procedures BEFORE you attempt to invent new methods, this will dramatically reduce your stress levels!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Jerry if Whiteside says to miter first and Harry and others say don't bother then that means some people do and some people don't. It doesn't mean either side is wrong and that you have to get opinions until you're sure which is right. It means that there are at least 2 ways to do it and that you have the opportunity to try both and see for yourself if one works better for you than the other one does.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Jerry if Whiteside says to miter first and Harry and others say don't bother then that means some people do and some people don't. It doesn't mean either side is wrong and that you have to get opinions until you're sure which is right. It means that there are at least 2 ways to do it and that you have the opportunity to try both and see for yourself if one works better for you than the other one does.



Charles,
I suppose that the reason questions like this come up due is to the fact that I'm waiting for the delivery of the bits and jigs from Infinity and since I am house bouned due to high wind and heat down here in West Texas, I get into my normal over think mode. I see what you mean and thanks for pointing it out. I sure am hoping that the bits work as well as expected and without having to pre-cut the edges to 45 degrees. Harry is right about how well the bits work for so many people, iit's probably hard for him to imagine my not knowing about them until now. The concept is indeed a great new idea for me and one that solves so many problems that I have been wondering about.

Jerry


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Charles,
> I am house bouned due to high wind and heat down here in West Texas
> 
> Jerry


I'm waiting for the rest of the snow to melt. Today is nice, maybe 50F, but the next 2 days are only supposed to go up to freezing or just over.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

How are you going with the lock-mitre bit that I'm sure you must have had for more than a week Jerry?


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

harrysin said:


> How are you going with the lock-mitre bit that I'm sure you must have had for more than a week Jerry?


Harry,
Actually the bits and the jigs have not arrived yet. One of the jigs was on back order when I placed my order with Infinity. They should have been shipped last week. I sure will let you know how they work for me after I give them a try.

I don't know if it is appropriate or not to say on the forum what I am about to say, but I may be able to help somebody by telling about it. 

My wife's grandson took his life last Monday morning. The time since then has been very hectic in our family. The young man was 32 years old and left a six your old son and his beautiful young wife. Colder had been dealing with severe back pain along an acute case of bypolar. 

The reason that I have decided to mention this tragedy on the forum is to say to anybody that has a loved one that is dealing with bipolar is to tell them how very important it is to get them professional help along with the proper medication. We did not understand what was was going on and only after understanding more about bipolar have we begin to understand what Colder was dealing with. He had been diagnosed with the diease and given medication, but without professional help a person with bipolar will not take their medication. I won't go into the details of what we have learned but if any member would like t know more about what we have learned, please PM me and and I will attempt to explain what we have learned.

Jerry


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Jerry, I simply don't know how to express my deep sadness at such terrible news, I guess that it's times like this that your religion will help you all to come to grips with the situation. My deepest sympathy to you and your whole family.


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## dicktill (Mar 27, 2013)

*sorry for your loss*



Jerry Bowen said:


> ...
> 
> My wife's grandson took his life last Monday morning. The time since then has been very hectic in our family. The young man was 32 years old and left a six your old son and his beautiful young wife. Colder had been dealing with severe back pain along an acute case of bypolar.
> 
> ...


Jerry (and your wife and family): Sorry for your loss.

Regards, Dick


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