# Help Identifying Table Saw Blade



## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

I've got a SEARS 10" Table Saw blade and I'm trying to identify its use. It's from the late 1970's.
It is a steel blade with 28 teeth.
The printing on it is:
KROMEDGE
CHISEL TOOTH
9- 32668
113B

Can any body tell me what cutting application it would be best used for.
Thank You


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

positive hook angle combination blade best suited for ripping on your table saw...
no matter what the package says...
this the blade...

.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> positive hook angle combination blade best suited for ripping on your table saw...
> no matter what the package says...
> this the blade...
> 
> .


Thank You.
A ripping I will go.
I was doing some clean-up and sorting my saw blades. I found the original blade from my Delta Miter Saw too....a Cross Cut Flooring blade.
I've kind of replaced these steel blades with carbides.
I had found a local sharpener and he did a really nice job on my blades....they all came back sharper than when they were new.
Unfortunately he retired.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

28 teeth would still be a ripping blade like Stick says although that tooth count is on the high side for ripping but lower than the 40 -50 that is normally associated with combination blades. I would use that one for cutting something that you wouldn`t use one of your good carbide blades for.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> 28 teeth would still be a ripping blade like Stick says although that tooth count is on the high side for ripping but lower than the 40 -50 that is normally associated with combination blades. I would use that one for cutting something that you wouldn`t use one of your good carbide blades for.


That's my plan. I have to rip a bunch of 2 X 4's for shelf brackets that I am making. 
Thank You


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## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

JIMMIEM, I believe I have had the exact same blade you have described. I discarded it because of all the vibration it created when using it. I have since replaced it with the Freud Blade. I did not replace the same type blade. The blade you described for the work I do was too aggressive and did not leave a clean good cut. Like has been mentioned before, I went to a blade with more teeth. I am still a very early beginner with Wood Working, even though I am probably much older than most who use this forum. So I may not be giving the best advice.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Tagwatts1 said:


> JIMMIEM, I believe I have had the exact same blade you have described. I discarded it because of all the vibration it created when using it. I have since replaced it with the Freud Blade. I did not replace the same type blade. The blade you described for the work I do was too aggressive and did not leave a clean good cut. Like has been mentioned before, I went to a blade with more teeth. I am still a very early beginner with Wood Working, even though I am probably much older than most who use this forum. So I may not be giving the best advice.


Thank You. You are correct....the blade is basically a throw away....not high end at all. As you know it's old and steel. I'll just use it for rough cuts in 2 X 4's.....don't need a really clean cut. When it gets dull....which should happen pretty quickly I'll send it to the metal recycler. FWIW rip blades will have less teeth than a crosscut blade.....I've got some very good 24 tooth carbide ripping blades.
To belabor the point I also have an old Sears steel hollow ground planer blade which does give a fairly good cut.
A lot of these are from back in the day when SEARS was the go to place....at least for DIYers...pre-internet days.


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## richjh (Jan 14, 2013)

I have my dad's Craftsman Kromedge dado set he purchased for use with the Montgomery Ward RAS he had that I also inherited. I don't believe he ever used the dado set. I have saved it in case I need to cut dado's in construction grade lumber or older lumber that I don't want to use the carbide dado blades for. I also have the original Delta flooring blade for the chop saw that I keep for the same lumber. No sense in dulling the nice carbide Woodworker blade.


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

Tagwatts1 said:


> JIMMIEM, I believe I have had the exact same blade you have described. I discarded it because of all the vibration it created when using it. I have since replaced it with the Freud Blade. I did not replace the same type blade. The blade you described for the work I do was too aggressive and did not leave a clean good cut. Like has been mentioned before, I went to a blade with more teeth. I am still a very early beginner with Wood Working, even though *I am probably much older than most who use this forum.* So I may not be giving the best advice.


More than *Stick*? :surprise: I dont think so. 0

BTW Stick what was the price of that blade?, I barely see a little tag there.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Jim; That packaging features the blade mounted on a radial arm saw. Pretty sure that was it's intended application...
Blades for Radial Arm Saws and Compound Miter Saws / Rockler How-to
The writing on a Radial Arm saw/SCM saw blade is on the reverse side of a normal table saw blade.
ie reverse tooth direction.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Tagwatts1 said:


> JIMMIEM, I believe I have had the exact same blade you have described.* I discarded it because of all the vibration it created when using it.* I have since replaced it with the Freud Blade. I did not replace the same type blade. The blade you described for the work I do was too aggressive and did not leave a clean good cut. Like has been mentioned before, I went to a blade with more teeth. I am still a very early beginner with Wood Working, even though I am probably much older than most who use this forum. So I may not be giving the best advice.


blade needed flattening and the set made uniform...

see if this helps...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

röentgeep said:


> more than *stick*? :surprise: I dont think so. 0
> 
> btw stick what was the price of that blade?, i barely see a little tag there.


diik....


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The best ripping blade I have (10 inch) is a heavy saw plate with 18 teeth. More teeth require more power and generate more heat. There is a small sawmill named the Lucas Mill that is designed for cutting large logs. It has a 20 - 24 inch blade that is recessed at the arbor so that the entire blade can pass over the cut. Those blades only have 4 teeth. Some of the Volkswagon engine mills also only had 4 tooth blades.


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