# Sharpening Stones & Honing Guide



## morgantheship (Oct 19, 2014)

I am looking for some advise on sharpening stones and a honing guide. I don't want to spend a lot of money on either, if possible.

I have looked at various honing guides and read reviews with some ranging from $10 to up to over $100. I am just not sure what to look for. 

I mainly want to be able to sharpen my chisels and my blades for my planes. 

As for stones, again there seems to be many to choose from. What grit does one buy for sharpening chisels and plane blades? If I can buy just one or two stones, that would be my preference. I was looking at something in the medium and fine grit range. But again, I don't know what I should be looking for?

Oil stone or water stone? 

Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I played with stones for a while I probably have 6 or 7 stones. I then bought a Worksharp 3000 and have never looked back. What took me hours on the stones now takes me minutes to sharpen a chisel on the Worksharp. I know stones are cheap to get into but to me it was money wasted as I never use them any more.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

I''m gonna say the Veritas MK II for the honing guide...
it's the cream of the crop... worth way more than you pay for it...
once you get one in your hands, see how well it's made and works you'll understand it's real value...

now for the stones...
best read the PDF's and get yourself really confused...
I use a mix of the Veritas MK II, Tormek 7, wet/dry SC/AO paper, water stones and diamonds...

this style w/ the narrow wheel is total waste of money even if you get one as a gift...

.









.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

X3 Diamond Coated Sharpening Stones Plastic Backed | eBay

I use these most of the time. I don't mind the time it takes and it usually isn't that long although it will add up over time. There are different grits and it seems that the color coding is mostly uniform from seller to seller with the blue and yellow being fairly coarse and red being fairly fine (around 400 grit) and green being about 600 grit. The link isn't necessarily a recommendation, more of just an example. HF may sell the same thing for less. They'll last a long time and can be used with the Veritas Mk 2. I've also seen a 4 sided version that is a pretty good deal. There are other sharpening tools I use but these are the main part.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

I have the 4 sided version mentioned by Cherryville Chuck and am very happy with it. I've only used it to sharpen a couple of knives mind you, so can't say about the chisels or plane irons but I would think it should be adequate for those as well. 

I can also recommend the Worksharp mentioned by coxhaus. You might find it a bit pricey initially, but it's worth it. I bought some chisels at a yard sale, a couple looked like they have been used on nails they were so gouged. A few minutes using different grits, rough to fine, and I think I could have shaved with them.


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## PapaTango (Oct 9, 2015)

I'm in a similar situation to the OP and reluctant to spend of various grits or stones and still have to learn 'the art' of correct sharpening! It seems rhat apart from grits, the angles are also crucial and for that reason, I am leaning toward an $80 purchase of this

M Power Diamond Cross PSS1 Sharp System | Klingspor's Woodworking Shop


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

I fixed your link Paul. That looks pretty slick and easy to use. And no power so you can use it anywhere.


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

I went through the same thing a few months back, and wound up spending the money on the MK II by Veritas. I got it from Lee Valley along with a fine and extra fine Diasharp 3x8 diamond stones. I absolutely love the MK II, it's incredibly accurate and easy to use. The diamond stones are great!! No mess and they last forever. I know you didn't want to spend a lot of money but at the very least I would invest in the MK II.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

PapaTango said:


> I'm in a similar situation to the OP and reluctant to spend of various grits or stones and still have to learn 'the art' of correct sharpening! It seems rhat apart from grits, the angles are also crucial and for that reason, I am leaning toward an $80 purchase of this
> 
> M Power Diamond Cross PSS1 Sharp System | Klingspor's Woodworking Shop


Paul, thanks for posting. Looks like a very clever and simple idea.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

mbar57 said:


> I went through the same thing a few months back, and wound up spending the money on the MK II by Veritas. I got it from Lee Valley along with a fine and extra fine Diasharp 3x8 diamond stones. I absolutely love the MK II, it's incredibly accurate and easy to use. The diamond stones are great!! No mess and they last forever. I know you didn't want to spend a lot of money but at the very least I would invest in the MK II.


+1...same here...picked up the MKii Deluxe...using wet/dry paper over a granite saddle...works like a champ...

When I run out of paper, I'll pick up the stones...or maybe not...


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I have the MKII and love it. I went free hand for awhile, but found I was able to get a far better edge with the guide. I started out with using sand paper on a granite block, which has a low cost to get started. However I found that replacing the sandpaper got pretty expensive fairly quick. I have transitioned to norton's two sided stone, covering 220, 1000, 4000, and 8000 grit. They do need to be flattened. From what I have read, the norton flattening stone is junk, so I never bought it. I use 100 grit sandpaper on my granite block to flatten the stones.

One thing I will say, there is no "right" way to sharpen. My suggestion is to find a method that works for you, and stick with it.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I bought a set of the diamond stones quite a while back and still using the same ones. I've been doing it by hand and eye all along and a few months back decided to buy a brass bevel gauge for about $5 to see just what angle my chisel tips were. I was in 1 degree of 25 on all the ones I checked. I really don't think the angle is all that critical as long as is close. On chisels the angle across the edge also isn't that important to be perfectly 90* since most of the time the chisel gets used at an angle anyway (skewed i.e.). So if you develop a little hand eye coordination you'll be fine doing it manually. 

Chisel irons are a little more finicky but they are also wider which makes it easier to keep an even grind on them and most smoothing planes have a skew adjustment.

The 600 grit diamond stone will get you very close to being able to shave with the blade. Lapping the bottom of the blades flat is also very important and I purchased this wet/dry SC sanding paper from Heleta. Wet-Dry Sandpaper - Abrasives in the 2500 grit. I've also seen 3000 on their site. As you can see it is dirt cheap. I just lay it down on a flat surface and start rubbing the bottom of the blade across it. I was very pleasantly surprised at how long the paper lasts. BTW, they also sell a limited range of router bits that are the cheapest you can buy and are surprisingly good for how much they cost. Most of their bits sell for under $4. Obviously they aren't Whiteside quality. I think it was Gene Howe who said he also buys his abrasive discs from them.

The last step is honing the blade and I use a hard felt wheel for that with green honing compound which is 8000 grit, both available from LV and elsewhere. I have an 8" wheel for my grinder which is about $35-40 and a 3 1/2" wheel that can be used with a drill which is a little trickier to use but still works. I looked on ebay last night and found some 4" wheels with 3/8" holes so a person could make an arbor for the wheel out of a 3/8" bolt, 2 or 3 nuts and washers.

With the above sharpening tools I get razor sharpness and that's how I decide when my chisels and irons are sharp enough is if they will effortlessly shave the hair off my arm. If you want to develop a little skill, for about $30-40 you'll get tools that sharp. Add the Mark 2 and you'll be up around $100 but it will make life easier.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

PapaTango said:


> I'm in a similar situation to the OP and reluctant to spend of various grits or stones and still have to learn 'the art' of correct sharpening! It seems rhat apart from grits, the angles are also crucial and for that reason, I am leaning toward an $80 purchase of this
> 
> M Power Diamond Cross PSS1 Sharp System | Klingspor's Woodworking Shop


I have one of these and they work really well, although a badly worn or damaged chisel should be sharpened initially on something that has a more aggressive material removal. Polish the back of the blade and sharpen the bevel, running up through the various grits, and you'll wind up with a chisel that will slice oak end grain and give a polished finish. I actually bought it for sharpening butt chisels as most of the available jigs do not accommodate the shorter blade lengths.


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## katy01 (Apr 26, 2013)

Most advice is worth what you paid for it and this may be no different.

How much time, effort and money to invest in sharpening chisels depends on what you do and whether the results you're getting do the job. You can a lot and end up unsatisfied.

I get the impression you are not yet deep into woodworking, so my advice is: start cheap and small. An assortment of wet/dry sandpaper that goes to 600 grit, a simple one-wheel jig and a granite floor tile from Home Depot to provide a flat surface will get you started. Sharpening to 600 grit will do for carpentry.

Go slowly, pay attention. Sharp has happened when the bevel meets the back to raise a wire edge along the back. Stick's pdf's have the details.

It's good to remember the finest furniture made 2-300 years ago had none of the fancy hardware and abrasives we have now. Those craftsmen took the time to get their results. There's time enough for you to pour your sweat and treasure into the sharpening swamp.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

katy01 said:


> .
> 
> I get the impression you are not yet deep into woodworking,* so my advice is: start cheap and small. *


the sad part about cheap is that if it's too cheap of a get by it's money wasted...
if you buy a better replacement for that 10$ cheapie w/ a 20$ version that doesn't quite cut it either and you are unhappy w/ it too so you spring for the 30$ model and now is all right in the world...
bottom line is that you wasted 30$ on two dust collectors which end up making that 30$ number cost 60$....

spend the 30$ up front and save the wasted 30$ for something else... 
or get major quality for 60$ and have it earn for you for decades...
when you buy, buy so that you don't ever need to buy again, there isn't a need for upgrading, and your bottom line is protected... etc...

see this box labeled sharpening???
there is a enough money in there tied up in failures to buy three MK II's and a pair of Tormek 7's...


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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

"Polish the back of the blade and sharpen the bevel, running up through the various grits, and you'll wind up with a chisel that will slice oak end grain and give a polished finish."
--Tomp913

BINGO! From what I have observed, most do not polish the back of the blade. At first I was hesitant to do so, then as a test I polished the back of a chisel. The edge was sharper and held up longer. All of my chisels and plane irons now sport a polished back that gives a clear reflection.

For what it is worth: As for sharpening, I went from King (Japanese) water stones, to diamond stones, then a Tormek. Still prefer the King stones. I will allow that the Tormek is fast, but I do believe that the edge from the King water stones is sharper and holds up longer. I never could get the knack of sharpening with the diamond stones. 

My King water stones are 800, 1200, 5000 (or 6000), and 8000 grit. When I bought these stones along with a flattening stone and a Nagura slurry stone, King was the most economical on the market. Believe that Amazon sells them at a reasonable price.

A flattening stone is needed for water stones as they will wear/dish quickly, and a flattening stone quickly trues them up. The Nagura stones creates a slurry that really polishes the steel. Believe that is necessary with the really high grit stones.

Water stones can be a bit messy. I stored my stones in a pail of water with bleach added to kill off any bacteria/mold. 

I utilize the older (or orginal?) Lee Valley/Veritas angle setting guide and blade holder that works well. From what I have been told and read here, the newer Lee Valley guide and jig is far batter. I have not had the opportunity to handle one yet, so I can not say if it is better. 

As for which system will work best for you,' best better' do some research to figure out the total price of everything you want and need, talk to Fellow Woodworkers, and if there is a Woodcraft type store near you, see if they have sharpening classes. 

I say this as it is real easy to quickly spend a great deal of money on a system (or systems) that for one reason or another do not work for you. For example, a set of the Shapton water stones will set you back quite a bit. If possible, ask Fellow Woodworkers if you could try their sharpening system. 

Once heard it said that "you sharpen more to sharpen less." It does not make sense, but it quicker and easier to periodically touch up the edge, than re-establish a really dulled or blunt edge. Now if I could only remember that....


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## whimsofchaz (Jun 6, 2013)

There will be as many different ways to sharpen as there are people on this forum. A flat back on your chisels and blades is key. You will experiment with grinding media until you find what you like. Diamond stones are cheaper in the long rum. Angle guides work but depends on how much you want to spend. I have a MK II. I use sand paper at times. I like ceramic for finishing. You get a flat back and a good angle and you will eventually find out what sharp is.


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## morgantheship (Oct 19, 2014)

Thanks for all the feedback. After considering all the input and doing some more searching and reading of reviews 

I plan to go with the MKII by Veritas. I will also get the mentioned diamond stones. Looks like I can get everything from Lee Valley.

Didn’t want to spend the money but I figure I might as well do it right and not have to do it over. 

Thanks again for all the input.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

practice on paper 1st...
you just may stay there...
buy your paper in rolls and not sheets... less waste, longer strokes which make life easier and it's a lot cheaper in the long run...


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Get a system which works. Starting out it is kind of the blind following the blind untill you figure it out. When I did the long hand way sharpening. I sharpened while watching TV. I have a wood TV tray from Walmart I sharpen on. Figure out a system which works for you. There are lots of ways to sharpen.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

morgantheship said:


> Thanks for all the feedback. After considering all the input and doing some more searching and reading of reviews
> 
> I plan to go with the MKII by Veritas. I will also get the mentioned diamond stones. Looks like I can get everything from Lee Valley.
> 
> ...


You won't regret the money spent on the MKII. You won't pry mine out of my hands even when I'm dead!

There are literally a dozen or more ways of sharpening. I have used, water stones, diamond plates, sandpaper, oil stones, ceramic stones and a Worksharp 3000. All work, some are more messy then others, some can get expensive. I'll, also, suggest a leather strop with polishing compound. Once your iron is sharp, sometimes all it needs is a good stropping to get an edge back onto it, between serious sharpenings.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

To throw still ANOTHER option into the mix, at least for our Canadian members, this is currently on sale: Multi-Purpose Sharpener

It's gotten mixed reviews, but I'm going to look at it and see. 

It's also sold under several other brands...

Sealey SMS2004

and the Harbour Freight version:Electric Multipurpose Sharpener


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

BrianS said:


> To throw still ANOTHER option into the mix, at least for our Canadian members, this is currently on sale: Multi-Purpose Sharpener
> 
> It's gotten mixed reviews, but I'm going to look at it and see.
> 
> ...


Brian, General has a jig which holds bits that you sharpen with your bench grinder. Mine is many years old but still functions well.

The other one I have is the drill doctor. A little more pricey but it does a great job. Of course, these won't be of any help with chisels or plane blades.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Thanks Keith. I have a drill doctor, and am very happy with it so the drill bits are taken care of. And, I'm not too sure about the chisels and planes as there doesn't seem to be any way to change grits on this. It might save time on the initial sharpening, but I'm thinking a honing guide and finer grits would be necessary to finish. 

I'm actually looking at it for the scissor sharpening aspect. As I've mentioned before, SWMBO is a quilting addict, and some of the scissors she buys can run up to $50 or more. It would be worth the price to be able resharpen them, rather than replace.

If it does the rest, then double bonus.


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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

Colleagues: when consider any electric sharpener/grinder, check the RPMs.

In the above link, the Sealy machine has an RPM of 6700! --click on "product details" at:
http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?gotonode=ViewProduct&method=mViewProduct&productid=16955

A light touch and probably a water quench will be needed or you will take the temper from the steel.

Also check out the grit of the stone. Some stones cut extremely fast, which over heats the edge and removes the temper. Have heard it said that if/when the steel turns blue, the temper is gone and it will never hold an edge.

Same holds true for bench mounted hand operated/ cranked grinders


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## morgantheship (Oct 19, 2014)

This afternoon I ordered the Veritas MIKII from Klingspor's Woodworking Shop. They had the best price. 

I decided to also begin using various grades of sand paper as suggested verses buying stones at this time. I will look into purchasing a slate tile for my backing or I might use a piece of the MDF that I used for making the stations (forms) for my canoe project.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

A piece of plate glass also works well. This is what Lee Valley uses on their Stone Pond.

I have a sheet of emery paper on mine.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Agree with Keith - when I was using sandpaper, I picked up a 1x2 x 1/4" sheet of glass for under $10. I stuck on strips of various grits around the perimeter so that I could go from one grit to the next easily. Stuck it on with Elmer's spray adhesive - cleans off easily.
You could also go down to any tile center and pick up a 12"x12" ceramic tile, probably for free, or a couple of bucks. Just ask for a full size sample. One other place to check for an offcut, is a granite counter dealer/installer. They may have a sink cutout or similar.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

morgantheship said:


> This afternoon I ordered the Veritas MIKII from Klingspor's Woodworking Shop. They had the best price.
> 
> I decided to also begin using various grades of sand paper as suggested verses buying stones at this time. I will look into purchasing a slate tile for my backing or I might use a piece of the MDF that I used for making the stations (forms) for my canoe project.


Lee Valley's micro fine sandpaper works really well too and the finest grades will give you sharp enough edges to shave with.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Ray Newman said:


> Colleagues: when consider any electric sharpener/grinder, check the RPMs.
> 
> In the above link, the Sealy machine has an RPM of 6700! --click on "product details" at:
> Sealey
> ...


Thanks Ray. Appreciate the info. I did go out buy one of these... sale ended today so didn't want to miss out if it was worth it. I can always return it if I change my mind. Heat was one of the issues I read somewhere.. think it was a review on the unit that Harbor Freight sold. It apparently got the tool hot enough that it melted the plastic guides. I'm almost thinking that was self inflicted... common sense dictates a short cooling of period if things get to warm.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

BrianS said:


> I'm actually looking at it for the scissor sharpening aspect. As I've mentioned before, SWMBO is a quilting addict, and some of the scissors she buys can run up to $50 or more. It would be worth the price to be able resharpen them, rather than replace.


My wife did quilting for a long time and we found a gadget for a few bucks that does and incredible job sharpening scissors. You simply insert the scissors into the slots and pull the scissors toward you as you close them to keep the cutting surface against the carbide sharpening pieces. Twelve bucks on Amazon or near that at most quilting stores. http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-98617...=1458885132&sr=8-7&keywords=scissor+sharpener. Three to five passes and you have a dangerously sharp pair of scissors. Not hard to use this and get the exact correct angle, vs sharpening freehand and hope you got it right.

BTW, I have a WorkSharp 3000, which is terrific for setting blades up or restoring damaged blades, and I also have diamond encrusted steel plates for quickly keeping edges razor sharp.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> My wife did quilting for a long time and we found a gadget for a few bucks that does and incredible job sharpening scissors. You simply insert the scissors into the slots and pull the scissors toward you as you close them to keep the cutting surface against the carbide sharpening pieces. Twelve bucks on Amazon or near that at most quilting stores. http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-98617...=1458885132&sr=8-7&keywords=scissor+sharpener. Three to five passes and you have a dangerously sharp pair of scissors. Not hard to use this and get the exact correct angle, vs sharpening freehand and hope you got it right.


I know that gizmo...
wife did a tremendous amount of sewing and use those to keep her scissors sharp..


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Using my Worksharp 3000 I have sharpening sheets up to 3600 for fine touch ups. I think they make higher numbered sharpening sheets than 3600. Are they worth getting?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

How about these?
Diamond Lapping Film - Lee Valley Tools
Price seems incredibly reasonable!


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I don't know how their grading will compare to 3600 grit. Will they fit a Worksharp 3000?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I think the 0.1 micron would be way finer than 3600 Lee.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I think the 0.1 micron would be way finer than 3600 Lee.


American Standard (Grit) Micron
100,000 0.25
50,000 0.5
14,000 1
6,500 3.5
4,500 5
1,800 9
1,400 14
1,200 15
1,000 18
800 25
600 30
400 40
200 100
100 150


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Lee Valley is calling 15 micron 1000 grit and your chart shows 1200 so those numbers are certainly in the same ballpark.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

coxhaus said:


> I don't know how their grading will compare to 3600 grit. Will they fit a Worksharp 3000?


Lee, Read this post.

http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/84929-santas-present-work-sharp-3000-a.html

I have had excellent results with the use of lapidary diamond plates. They work just fine. However, the jury is still out on the 3600 grit diamond plate. When sharpening chisels it wears a groove in the plate (rubs off the diamonds). For the higher grits I would stick with the micromesh PSA discs.

The thread provides links to everything you will need.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

The PSA 3600 grit micromesh are kind of expensive. I saw a felt pad which is available for the Worksharp 3000. I wonder if I could use one of these with a fine goo for the higher grit and save money. What do you think?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The green honing compound is rated 8ooo grit. Lee Valley sells it but it is also available elsewhere. A hard felt wheel and green honing compound is my final step. It will produce a mirror finish if you use it for long enough. It helps to add a little oil to the felt first as the green compound is oil soluble. Even spraying the wheel with WD40 helps.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

OK. I guess I need to try the felt pad with green honing compound. That's Chuck.


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