# Mortise Template



## JDługosz (Sep 10, 2007)

To make a mortise 3/8" wide and 1" long, I used a 3/8" bit with a 1/2" OD collar. The template is a piece of MDF with a slot 1/2" wide so the template guide fits exact and just moves back and forth a little bit. Seems simple, right?

Well, although the template worked properly in the abstract sense, it was more work than it ought to be. I have to plunge just a hole, turn off the motor (wait for it to stop), clear out the chips, and repeat. It takes 4 or 5 such passes to route the whole thing.

Basically, there is no way for the chips to escape. The router plate has holes around the big hole in the middle, but the shape being evacuated is never exposed from the plate, because it is so small.

I've never seen this issue discussed in the books I've read and the TV I've watched. How do you make a template for a small pattern?

FWIW, I chose a template guide around the bit instead of fencing in the whole router base because it is easier to make something small precise, and making an elongated hole is easier than getting two fences exactly parallel and 8" apart.

--John


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

John
Try making your template using a 40mm template guide the material will not build up.
Tom


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Tom's is right about the 40mm guide but it's hard to find one that can fit your router. 

Tom and Harry have a great way to put in slots but one of the keys is to use a vac.pickup device on your router to lift the chips out of the slot..

Vac.pick up=You can buy one for your router or just make one easy.

With Tom's and Harry's way you don't need to use a brass/steel guide at all if you don't want to ...
It's a simple holding device and a pair of skis to hold and guide the router.
This simple jig setup will cost about 10.oo bucks for the hardware and some scrap wood from the shop and about hour or two of your time to make it and it can be used for many router jobs not just for putting in slots... 

Note the next to last snapshot, try that on the router table or with the standard router without the ski jig,,,I have and it can be just a bit tricky but with the ski jig setup it's easy and SAFE to do that one.. 
That's 1/2" wide slot in 3/4" thick in MDF stock.

==============


JDługosz said:


> To make a mortise 3/8" wide and 1" long, I used a 3/8" bit with a 1/2" OD collar. The template is a piece of MDF with a slot 1/2" wide so the template guide fits exact and just moves back and forth a little bit. Seems simple, right?
> 
> Well, although the template worked properly in the abstract sense, it was more work than it ought to be. I have to plunge just a hole, turn off the motor (wait for it to stop), clear out the chips, and repeat. It takes 4 or 5 such passes to route the whole thing.
> 
> ...


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Bob,

RouterWork Shop program... Fern Stand... recently shown on www.TheWoodworkingChannel.com 

I saw Bob R. use Skis on his router the other day while making his Fern Table Stand!

The fern stand legs were half-lapped and then tapered.

He made a jig for the tapering, but the Key to using it was that he put his Ski runners directly to his square plunge router plate... he used dbl. sided tape to afix the wood skiis (maybe 3/4" high & 6" long).

Worked like a charm! 

I can see some good advantages to using those skiis! :sold:

I am going to make a set... to flatten some small pieces that need it... Very flexible method / tool. Home Depot a good place to look for the rods??


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## JDługosz (Sep 10, 2007)

Thanks for the notes, Bj.

I think the first thing you said is to use a guide bushing with lots of clearance around the bit, rather than the one with the closest fit. That way the chips can go up and out.

Who are Tom and Harry?

Your photos are interesting...there is a lot to take in. I see two different rod holders: one black set with fixed points, and one unfinished tall set with slots to adjust the height. The rods look like threaded rods. That doesn't bother it to have the threading go through the router base's holes, as opposed to being smooth?

I see the whole thing acts as a sled that goes around a parts holding tray. That's just a tray with lots of screws around the frame. You hold things in place using wedges. Hmm, the frame seems to overhang the tray area. Why is that?

Another parts holder uses screw-down fixtures including eccentric cams. You use them together for some reason.

When using rod holders as a sled, how do you stop the router from moving along the threads? Do you use it in a mode where the router does move along the rods? In the 3rd picture, how is the router being guided? The ends are not set to hug the parts tray, nor are they clamped which I would expect if the router is moving along the rods.

―John


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## JDługosz (Sep 10, 2007)

Joe Lyddon said:


> I saw Bob R. use Skis on his router the other day while making his Fern Table Stand!
> ... Home Depot a good place to look for the rods??


I've bought all-thread at HD or Lowes before. But they don't have the kind of hard rod that I've seen used to make panel saw guides.

Can you elaborate on the "skis"?


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

JDługosz said:


> I've bought all-thread at HD or Lowes before. But they don't have the kind of hard rod that I've seen used to make panel saw guides.
> 
> Can you elaborate on the "skis"?


I was wondering if threaded rod was the only kind at HD or Lowes...
There are other places to get rods... McCallister or something like that...

The rods merely hold the router in one place... while you move the whole thing via the end pieces as handles... Their Sled is made so the ski handles can slide in the edges to control the cut, forward / backward. That's it in a nutshell... I'll let Tom, Bob (no Dick), & Harry describe it more. 

Thank you.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Who are Tom and Harry?= Tom is Template Tom on the Forum ,Harry is Harry Sin on the Fourm..both are pros.with the ski setup jig and the template way of using the router..

I think that was Tom that said that but I do agree with him but some times you don't need the brass guides, the sides of the frame holding box will do the trick but a Vac. pickup works great to get the chips out of the slot and keep the work area clean.

" there is a lot to take in" = true,,, if you click on the gallery item on posted items by me you will see it all....

"black set" = this is Harry's setup ,he used solid rods and I used all thread rod so I could move it to any place I wanted it to be.

"eccentric cams" = I made two types of holdng frames, one I used the wedge type to hold the part in place and the 2nd frame I made I used the cam type, the holes you see hold 10-24 tee nuts so I can move the cams all over the base board and not be locked into using one size of board to fit down in the frame with side supports, I like the cam type the best and that's the one I use now all the time the other one now holds the TurnLock systems (MilesCraft setup ) and works best for that type of setup.

"down fixtures including eccentric cams" = one set of cams hold the blank stock and the other set hold the template, as you can see the ones that hold the blank stock are shorter and the other ones are a bit taller but they both use the same size of Allen bolts to lock them in place...
The 1st. set of cams I made where holes I cut out with the hole saw then I got smart and just used some Oak dowel (1 3/4" in dia.) and just cut off the size I needed to make...I now have about 80 or so ...all the same dia. but not all the same height, they range from 3/8" tall to 2 1/4" ..

"how do you stop the router from moving" = almost all routers come with wing screws/sloted that lock the the fence rods in place.

"how is the router being guided?" = that's the great thing about the ski jig,you can let the skis run on the side of the holding frame or move the skis out so you move it over and around inside of the template(s) if you have one in place...I used all 3/8-24 all thread on the 1st. set I made and then used Acme 3/8-12 for the 2nd set...the 3/8-24 works just fine but you can't turn the wing nut down to tight without putting a flat spot on it..
The rods I now use are 30" long and the frame as a block on the bottom side so I can just drop in the hole in the router table ,that locks the holding frame in place and I have a flat spot for the skis to slide on...

The TurnLock holding frame as a smaller block on the bottom so I clamp it in the Work-Mate work bench if I need to use it at the same time as the other one that's in the router table...


Hope this helps, IT"S A GREAT JIG and worth the money and time to make one 


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JDługosz said:


> Thanks for the notes, Bj.
> 
> I think the first thing you said is to use a guide bushing with lots of clearance around the bit, rather than the one with the closest fit. That way the chips can go up and out.
> 
> ...


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Bob,
> 
> RouterWork Shop program... Fern Stand... recently shown on www.TheWoodworkingChannel.com
> 
> ...


Joe, I haven't caught that show yet but it doesn't surprise me. Bob and Rick are true pioneers in routing in my opinion. They have been using a template holder complete with blocking and screw jacks for many years. Going to have to catch that show! I wish Bob R. enjoyed using a computer... he could teach us all a few things! 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

"hard rod" = you can get hard rod from many fastner supply outlets just ask for B7 rod,,,(I think that's 4140 or 1038 steel DHT ) you should have one or two in your town or you can order it off the net.
from:
http://www.mcmaster.com/
or
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?SITYPE=1&SITEXT=tig+welding+machine&KNC-T7L391316886&





JDługosz said:


> I've bought all-thread at HD or Lowes before. But they don't have the kind of hard rod that I've seen used to make panel saw guides.
> 
> Can you elaborate on the "skis"?


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

challagan said:


> Joe, I haven't caught that show yet but it doesn't surprise me. Bob and Rick are true pioneers in routing in my opinion. They have been using a template holder complete with blocking and screw jacks for many years. Going to have to catch that show! I wish Bob R. enjoyed using a computer... he could teach us all a few things!
> 
> Corey



Corey,

That episode is just finishing up on www.TheWoodworkingChannel.com

It started 1/2 hr ago...


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Corey,
> 
> That episode is just finishing up on www.TheWoodworkingChannel.com
> 
> It started 1/2 hr ago...



Corey,

The program is on again right now... 11 AM pacific.

Fern Stand... uses Bob R. Skiis...

www.TheWoodworkingChannel.com


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Corey,
> 
> The program is on again right now... 11 AM pacific.
> 
> ...


Well I am at the office from 8:30 to 6:00 so that won't do. I will catch it some time I am sure. 

Corey


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

challagan said:


> Well I am at the office from 8:30 to 6:00 so that won't do. I will catch it some time I am sure.
> 
> Corey


It's going to show in 8 mins. ... 9.00PM Pacific.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I've only just noticed this thread John, by now I'm sure you would have decided what to do about skis, but in case you haven't, here are details of mine. Smooth rod is the nicest way to go if, like me you have a metal lathe or access to someone who does. If not, Bj. has proved that standard threaded rod is fine and in fact has the advantage that the width can be adjusted so that the end cheeks can be up close to some jigs for straight line routing, as in grooves. The alternative is to have several sets of differing lengths.


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