# Where to position router in table top?



## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

I'm building a table for my new Triton MFO001 router. The table top will be 24" x 32". Where along the 24" axis should I position the center of the router spindle? The router will be mounted to a plate. I can't find any consensus on this dimension.

I'm thinking about 8" - 10" from the back (i.e., 22-24" from the front.

Opinions?

<Chas>


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Charles , heres a pic of my Incra router table . I don't know if it will help but I'm going to use these same dimensions for a double router table I want to build . I also like the idea of having a miter slot .
It may be a matter of personal preference , but I thought this may provide you with a starting point


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

CharlesWebster said:


> I'm building a table for my new Triton MFO001 router. The table top will be 24" x 32". Where along the 24" axis should I position the center of the router spindle? The router will be mounted to a plate. I can't find any consensus on this dimension.
> 
> I'm thinking about 8" - 10" from the back (i.e., 22-24" from the front.
> 
> ...


I think you'd get tired of reaching across all that real estate to get to the spindle. 12 inches in front of the spindle will allow you to route a 24 inch wide piece without tipping. Anything bigger than that, and you'd probably be going hand-held anyway. You can always use the backside of the table if you need more support. Just my two cents worth.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

There is no consensus to it. I placed mine in the center. I wanted to have room in the back for doing things like fluting a board.. I needed room in front to do raised panels. Centered worked for me. People who are using different accessories like an Incra fence for instance would place the fence according to the accessory. Your use should determine the router plate location.


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## RGBPlastics (Jun 26, 2011)

I do a lot of large raised panels. My table top is 48" long by 32" wide. My spindle is 20" from the front. I had a smaller table, but the process was unstable on the large panels. The larger table helps to support and control large panels. The extra real estate does not seem to be an issue.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Bill hit it on the nose. The deciding factor is whether you are going to be using something like a Incra jig. If you are then you need to plan on it before cutting out the hole. My table is 4 feet long and 2 feet wide. My hole is in the center (24") and 15" from the front. If I'm reading you right you plan of making the table wider than longer. I wouldn't do it that way. You need the extra length for support more often than you need support in the front. The 15" I have has always been enough support for even the biggest panels.


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

I have never heard any hard and fast rule as to the absolute correct placement. It depends on what and how you're going to be using it. Put it where it is comfortable for you and it will likely be in the right place. Mine is a little back of center and that works for me.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

CharlesWebster said:


> I'm building a table for my new Triton MFO001 router. The table top will be 24" x 32". Where along the 24" axis should I position the center of the router spindle? The router will be mounted to a plate. I can't find any consensus on this dimension.
> 
> I'm thinking about 8" - 10" from the back (i.e., 22-24" from the front.
> 
> ...


Hey Chas, I don't have opinion or advice on this but I do appreciate you asking the question. It's something I've been wondering about myself.

Bryan


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## Garyk (Dec 29, 2011)

My Incra table (factory job) is like Ricks. It has to be that way to get full travel with the Incra jig. I've seen commercial models either centered of more to the front, with most similar to the Incra. Guess you could put them wherever you want to make it match the type of work you do the most. Saw one specifically for making cedar, tongue & grooves for a strip canoe that was just big enough for a handheld router and the space for the strip to pass by.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CharlesWebster said:


> I'm building a table for my new Triton MFO001 router. The table top will be 24" x 32". Where along the 24" axis should I position the center of the router spindle? The router will be mounted to a plate. I can't find any consensus on this dimension.
> 
> I'm thinking about 8" - 10" from the back (i.e., 22-24" from the front.
> 
> ...


so set it up that way....
come the need you work from the narrow and make sure you place the fence behind the bit...
only do this on the 32'' axis...
that's what I did and never regretted it...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I'd like mine set about 16-18 inches from the front on a table that size. Room for the fence in back but enough working space in front to do most of what I do.


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

OK, no consensus ;-)

Maybe I'll just go with my original instinct and put it 1/3 from the back, leaving more table in front for support. Maybe put the miter track 1/3 from the front.

No fancy jigs. Just a shop-built fence mounted on tee-track.

Thanks for all the help.

<Chas>


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I put mine roughly where you plan on but with the idea of putting the fence on either side of the hole depending on what I am doing. Small parts are nice to have close, large parts require more support.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Hi Charles. Welcome to our little corner of the 'net.

Yes, no hard, fast rule for placement of your router plate.... just what works best for you. Which is why some people have built several tables over the years because every time they build one, they discover something else they want to add. 

Check here for more ideas for router table then you probably want: wanted-pictures-your-router-table

My personal table is the one that was used in the TV series "The Router Workshop". It is 16"x30" and the plate is inserted towards one end, like this:-build-economy-table-top-install

No t-track or mitre slots. The fence is held in place with 2 c-clamps. Most of the router table use is done with the short end of the table. For those times that more support is needed, the fence is moved to the other side of the bit. Then you have the long portion of the table to work with. As Bob Rosenthal said, "the bit is round, and it will cut from any direction." As long as you pass the work along the fence from right to left, it's all good.

Again, this is mine, and certainly not the only way.


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

CharlesWebster said:


> OK, no consensus ;-)
> 
> Maybe I'll just go with my original instinct and put it 1/3 from the back, leaving more table in front for support. Maybe put the miter track 1/3 from the front.
> 
> ...


OK, that's where I put mine but, 1/3 from the front. Leaves about 8" of work space to the front for what I normally do but, also gives you a gigantic area from the back for larger projects.
I think I got that idea from Bill Hylton's book.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

It sounds like you're going to push mostly large panels...

That distance from the front might cause you to uncomcortably handle smaller width pieces and create some loss in visibility.

If you're looking for a concensus start point look to commercial tops...manufacturers need to suit a large audience.

Wondering though why you've chosen deep versus wide...? Just curious...


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

Nickp said:


> It sounds like you're going to push mostly large panels...
> 
> That distance from the front might cause you to uncomcortably handle smaller width pieces and create some loss in visibility.
> 
> ...


No, actually I don't expect to push wide panels, and I guess some misunderstanding crept in. :wink:

My intention is to make a 24" deep by 32" wide table top with the router on the center line of the 32" side. With a 32" long shop-made fence. The original question was where along the center line front to back (i.e., along the 24" axis) to put the spindle. I've decided to put it 1/3 (8") from the back, leaving 16" in front.

Thanks all


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

...got'cha...thanks...


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## ronhampe (Feb 11, 2012)

My woodpecker router table (24" x 32") came with the PRL-V2 lift installed and the center of the router is 13" from the front of the table. The center of the spindle on my powermatic shaper (model 26) is centered 16" from the front of the table.


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## SRVDVM (Nov 13, 2012)

Just another way to look at this. My table will be 24" front to back as well. If you center the bit 8" from the back and 16" from the front, (like you are going to do) you can give yourself two tables in one. If you run a T-track front yo back on eirhe side of the plate for your fence to run in, all you need to do is go to the other side if the table and turn the fence around. You now have the bit centered 16" from the back and 8" from the front. You can still run a miter slit on either side of the plate ( front and back) The only issue I see with this is where do you put the on/off switch for easy access. My table top will hand between two mobile carts, effectively giving me an 8' wide by 2' deep table. When not in use, the table top will be stored away and the router and plate in a tool cubby. Just something to think about


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## Jay lay (Jul 13, 2013)

I have read many books on routing and router tables and built a couple. I suggest 9-10" from the FRONT of the table, but make the fence reversible so that the bigger area at the rear can be used when needed. Also, I mounted the switch so it can readily be re- positioned to the rear when you reverse the fence so that it is still accessible( my own idea). I strongly recommend that you read two of Bill Hylton's books "Ultimate Guide to the Router Table" and "Woodworking with the Router"


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## SRVDVM (Nov 13, 2012)

Jay - got any pictures. You've done what I described in my post but have yet to build. How did you handle being able to move the switch. I have one if those large paddle switches that the router plugs into. Would like to see how you built yours. Scott


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## BioBill (Oct 2, 2010)

My installation has the access to the Triton depth control to the upper right - where it is often covered by the Incra fence. So to adjust depth, I have to move the fence - a real inconvienience. Plan ahead.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Jay lay said:


> I have read many books on routing and router tables and built a couple. I suggest 9-10" from the FRONT of the table, but make the fence reversible so that the bigger area at the rear can be used when needed. Also, I mounted the switch so it can readily be re- positioned to the rear when you reverse the fence so that it is still accessible( my own idea). I strongly recommend that you read two of Bill Hylton's books "Ultimate Guide to the Router Table" and "Woodworking with the Router"


Welcome to the forum Jay


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## Jay lay (Jul 13, 2013)

SRVDVM said:


> Jay - got any pictures. You've done what I described in my post but have yet to build. How did you handle being able to move the switch. I have one if those large paddle switches that the router plugs into. Would like to see how you built yours. Scott


I mounted the switch on a piece of plywood and then made provision for mounting the plywood on either the right front leg or the rear left leg of the table using plastic knobbed bolts. I have photo but not sure how to attach it to this message.


> [/QUOTE]from my iPad.


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## Jay lay (Jul 13, 2013)

Hi,
Trying to upload image. Note fold up-down shelf on side of table to hold items when working.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

nice plan...
gotta love the shelf... 
great idea...


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