# Ryobi RRT1600



## Zippity (Jun 4, 2018)

Hi,

I have just purchased a Ryobi RRT1600 Plunge Router and am in the process of setting up a workshop for DIY jobs and hopefully, to restore my long lost youth :smile:

Is this model of router suitable for mounting upside down?

If so, is it relatively easy to make bit depth alterations?

I have a gut feeling that I may have purchased the wrong type of router :frown:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Welcome to the forums N/A...
I'm Stick and do I have some reading for you to do...
much of which can not be ignored or treated lightly *ESPECIALLY SAFETY...*

there are PDF's here on safety, maintenance, methods, jigs, tooling, accessories, aides, set up, and so much more...

PLEASE take the time to read them.. Your health, welfare and safety matter here...

http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/133402-welcome-forums.html


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## Hypnotoad (Apr 17, 2018)

Zippity said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have just purchased a Ryobi RRT1600 Plunge Router and am in the process of setting up a workshop for DIY jobs and hopefully, to restore my long lost youth :smile:
> 
> ...


I like the way it comes with 1/4" and 1/2" collets, which means you don't have to worry about reducers, it has soft start and speed control.

Practically any router can be put in a table upside down, and you can always use one of those scissor type router lifts from Ebay if you want the cheap and easy route (excuse the pun).

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Router-Lift-HEAVY-DUTY-for-Router-Table-Bench-Woodworking-/331933469784

No Affiliation.


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

Hypnotoad said:


> I like the way it comes with 1/4" and 1/2" collets, which means you don't have to worry about reducers, it has soft start and speed control.
> 
> Practically any router can be put in a table upside down, and you can always use one of those scissor type router lifts from Ebay if you want the cheap and easy route (excuse the pun).
> 
> ...


The Cheap router lift ONLY works for Plunge Routers and NOT fixed based routers.


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## Hypnotoad (Apr 17, 2018)

reuelt said:


> The Cheap router lift ONLY works for Plunge Routers and NOT fixed based routers.


That's what the OP bought, it's a plunge router. 

Ryobi 1600W Plunge Router Product Detail - RYOBI Tools


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

Hypnotoad said:


> That's what the OP bought, it's a plunge router.
> 
> Ryobi 1600W Plunge Router Product Detail - RYOBI Tools


Correct but Stick did tell him to buy a Bosch Fixed base router.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

reuelt said:


> Correct *but Stick did tell him to buy a Bosch Fixed base router.*


????


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

@Zippity - Welcome aboard. Lots of good folks here willing to lend a hand.

Now, about your router. I didn't look up the manual so I will leave the reading to you. Does it mention a way to disable the plunge action by removing a spring (or springs). Without doing that, using it attached to a router plate insert will be a difficult task because you will be fighting the spring(s) each time you try to make a depth adjustment. I wouldn't even try it.

However, it should make a nice router for hand held operations.

Save up your coins and buy a second router with a fixed base that you can leave mounted under a table. There are a lot of insert plates that allow for just that purpose. I have two routers mounted under a table - a Triton 3 1/4hp and a Bosch 1617. They are attached to Kreg mounting plates. No complaints from me.

Good luck with your shop. We will be glad to help you spend your money! :surprise::grin::grin::grin:


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@Zippity The Bosch 1617 is highly recommended for table use, in part because its fixed base can be mounted under the table with an above table height adjustment. _Here's a picture._ Personally, I still use the 1617 freehand and plunge, but put a Triton TRA001 3 1/4 hp in my table. The Triton was made for under table use, and is set up with a crank so you can set height precisely. It also has a safety lock you have to press before you use it. It cranks up very high above the table for easy bit changes. It costs about the same as a lift alone. 

If the Ryobi doesn't allow you to convert it to a table model, I'd keep it for freehand use, and seriously consider going for a Triton. You're wise to go for a table mount either way, it's much safer to use a table than freehand, and using larger bits freehand doesn't work well and is pretty risky. 

Be sure to download and read the pdfs Stick put up. They cover a lot of territory. Also, you might get a lot from watching videos by Marc Sommerfeld. He sells router related gear, but he started out making cabinets, so his technique is really good and worth learning. 

Don't know if you have a commercial table yet, but you might consider making your own. Can be as simple as a chunk of flat ply or as complicated as a fancy cabinet with drawers. Search the Forums for threads on making a router table for details. You'll want to add a mounting plate to your shop made table, Kreg and many other companies make them, often pre-drilled for your router model. 

BTW, welcome. As you can tell, there's a ton of experience around here and we love to answer questions. You might also like to read this pdf on the 17 things that really accelerated my learning curve. It also contains suggestions on shop purchases and hopefully will help you avoid mis-spending on tools and accessories.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Many of the newer plunge routers have above the table adjustment capability, I’m not sure about that one though. You still have to reach under the table to lock them in position. I also recommend removing the springs for table use. You can extend the router to the point that the base comes off but there may be one thing to be careful of. Mine have a brass plug that goes between the lock lever and the plunge tube. Make sure that side is down when you remove the base or it can fall out.


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

*Ryobi RRT1600 exploded parts view*

Ryobi RRT1600 exploded parts view document attached

Springs easy to remove.
Cheap router lift available
Template guide 68mm like Markita. 
Just need an adapter ring to use Porter Cable type template Guide Bush (us: Guide Bushings)

Good 1st Router - with variable speed and 1/2" collet

It is easy to make a table top lift with ANY plunge router.
In fact if you get a cheap ALU plate AUD$73 it comes with a DIY Tabletop router lift kit for you too.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminu...179620?hash=item3b0132d764:g:mEoAAOSwSFJagV8K
Plastic insert shown already accepts 1 3/8" type Porter cable Guide Bushings - I know as I have one.
NO NEED OF a TRITON OR BOSCH just to get a tabletop lift.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

As you probably have realised by now, for table mounting the springs must be removed. I've no hands on experience with this very nice router but I would think that removing the fine adjustment knob, it will take many turns, will allow the body to lift off the base with the springs sticking out ready to remove. It is most important to remember that the springs MUST be replaced if you ever want to use it hand held where it should perform perfectly, having reasonable power, variable speed, soft start and a multi-step turret.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

My plunges have a brass plug that goes between the column lock lever and the plunge tube. If yours has one it can fall out when you remove the base. Make that side is down so it doesn’t happen.


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

harrysin said:


> As you probably have realised by now, for table mounting the springs must be removed. I've no hands on experience with this very nice router but I would think that removing the fine adjustment knob, it will take many turns, will allow the body to lift off the base with the springs sticking out ready to remove. It is most important to remember that the springs MUST be replaced if you ever want to use it hand held where it should perform perfectly, having reasonable power, variable speed, soft start and a multi-step turret.


Hi Harry
"MUST" is too strong a word.

As Philip suggested earlier there is a cheap heavy duty router lift available (AUD35) for plunge routers.
If one use such a lift, IMHO it won't be necessary to remove the springs.

I once remove the springs of my router then decided to put them back even though I only have a screw type lift.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

reuelt said:


> Hi Harry
> "MUST" is too strong a word.
> 
> As Philip suggested earlier there is a cheap heavy duty router lift available (AUD35) for plunge routers.
> ...


That's funny. I made one once to help "lift" a router that was hard wired into a Harbor Freight table. Yep, it was a plunge type router and miserable to adjust. So, I got a scissor jack and placed it under the router. Worked as well as could be expected.


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

*DIY lift*

When you buy a AU insert plate (see my earlier post) it comes with a DIY lift kit (see attached).

For many plunge router such as my Hitachi M12V it is very easy implement. Just replace the side threaded rod that holds the base to the router motor with this long bolt provided. You just need to drill a hole on the base plate and a bigger hole on the sub base and the AL insert

The T-allen key provided allows lifting the router from on top of the table. If you know the TPI you can adjust the height by counting the number of turns or quarter turns of the T-allen key. If you think that is too slow, just fix a hex bit to your cordless drill so that you can move your plunge router up and down more quickly depending on the speed of the drill.
THERE is NO NEED to remove the springs then.
Removing the springs may even be bad if you are using spiral bits as the router may creep upwards or vibrate when there are no springs to hold it down.

BUT since the RYOBI RRT1600 has a 4 year replacement warranty, it is best to just buy and use the scissors lift & don't remove the springs to avoid voiding the warranty.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

harrysin said:


> As you probably have realised by now, for table mounting the springs must be removed. I've no hands on experience with this very nice router but I would think that removing the fine adjustment knob, it will take many turns, will allow the body to lift off the base with the springs sticking out ready to remove. It is most important to remember that the springs MUST be replaced if you ever want to use it hand held where it should perform perfectly, having reasonable power, variable speed, soft start and a multi-step turret.


I think you might have miss-read what I wrote......"It is most important to remember that the springs MUST be replaced if you ever want to use it hand held where it should perform perfectly"
"If you ever want to use it HANDHELD"


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

My router plate is only held in by gravity so using a scissor lift without removing the springs wouldn’t work very well. Fortunately my M12V2 has above table adjustment capability.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Some years ago I was busy with a number of projects and happened to be in our local recycling depot when I saw a table top router table which I bought for $3.00! I then went to our local pawn shop, The Cash Converters, and bought a Ryobi router which I modified for above table height adjustment. Here are a few shots taken during the conversion. This conversion idea could probably be used on many different routers.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I guess Zippy got his answer and moved on. Sad because there is a lot of good info in this thread.


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## Zippity (Jun 4, 2018)

Hey Guys,

I'm still here. Have just been knocked down with a dose of the 'flu and was not really interested in getting out of bed and reading the internet 

Thanks for *ALL* the great feedback.

I need to sit down and try to absorb it all, before trying to sort out my problem.

Thanks for the comments


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Zippity said:


> Hey Guys,
> 
> I'm still here. Have just been knocked down with a dose of the 'flu and was not really interested in getting out of bed and reading the internet
> 
> ...


Good to hear from you. I know exactly how you feel. I was hit twice this season with "pollenitis" , as they call it down here in the South. I didn't want to get out of bed, and didn't for several days.

Get well.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Did you ever get this sorted?*

Sorry to jump in on an old thread, I have a Ryobi 1600W plunge router (Bunnings purchase - like HD for our American friends) I would like to use on a table, but am rather hesitant.
First issue is the no-lock power controls. I'd have to cable-tie the trigger on to use the separate power controls for the table.

Second is I'm not sure about controlling the height - I'm thinking of the scissor-lift as previously pictured, as it's cheap and may be ok. Or a Raizer from Timbecon, if I think it would work. I may email those guys to get their opinion.

Sadly, as much as I love this router, I was a little mis-informed by Bunnings (and I'm not the only one), as they claimed it could go in a table.

It certainly seems like I'd need to have some serious adjustments done to make that so (mostly power controls - and I'm no sparky).

Would be interested to hear how you got on.


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## Zippity (Jun 4, 2018)

Sadly, the Bosch 1617 is *ONLY* available in the USA.

I guess it is back to the drawing board for me


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Just bought a Makita*



Zippity said:


> Sadly, the Bosch 1617 is *ONLY* available in the USA.
> 
> I guess it is back to the drawing board for me


It's an M3600G single-speed router and I bought it for mounting in the table I've since built.
Not expensive, from Total Tools, and it may be worth a look for yourself.

I love my Ryobi RRT1600W - I have done a bit with it so far. The variable speed I haven't used a lot, but I love the soft-start and it's been good to work with as a hand-held router.


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## nbtx (Oct 4, 2019)

*Easy to remove*

Hello,
sorry to exhume this thread but you said that springs easy to remove on the Ryobi RRT1600...
Can someone explain to me how?
(I admit that despite the plan I do not know what is the process).

Thank you very much for your help
Nicolas


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## nbtx (Oct 4, 2019)

Thank you, I managed on my own.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

nbtx said:


> Thank you, I managed on my own.


Good stuff Nicolas. Sorry nobody got back to you on that. If you have the time and inclination, would you post the steps you took to remove the springs? It may help others who are looking to do a similar job with theirs.


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## nbtx (Oct 4, 2019)

Ok 

At first I tried to remove the hexagonal screws (74) that are at the base of the columns but the base did not disassemble. I guess that the columns had been mounted in force.
I removed the top cover (46) by removing the 6 screws. 
I desolidarized the central part (43) by removing the 4 screws (some of them are hidden by the electric wires). Now we can lift and turn a little the central part (including the engine block), enough to access the circlips (56) that hold the columns.

After removing the springs I reassembled all (do not forget to remove the carbon brushes (41) before, otherwise it blocks the reassembly).
Not very difficult, even for me ^^.

(sorry for the mistakes, I'm french and I don't speak english very well so... google translate is my friend and sometimes there is some failures lol).


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

Hi, I did not want to make a suggestion, as I have the previous model, which may be completely different. But in a number of routers, I have been able to access the springs by removing the roll pins that secure the base to the guide rods. Less complicated than a complete strip-down.
Part 74 on the diagram.


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## nbtx (Oct 4, 2019)

Hi,
as I mentioned at the beginning of my "review", I tried to unlock the base. 
On this model they are screws and not roll pins. When I removed the screws, the bottom remained stuck to the columns. Maybe the columns were mounted with a press. I might have been able to separate them with a mallet but I did not dare because I was not sure I could put it back up.

Anyway, my solution is accessible to everyone (even to really beginners like me lol). Only 10 screws and 2 carbon brushes to remove.


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

Pity when they make changes for no useful purpose. I was able to pass a long (actually, welded to be long) Allen head screw into one of the columns, and so converted for through-the-table height adjustment. I don’t say it could be done on your model, just saying.


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## nbtx (Oct 4, 2019)

I agree with you for the useless changes .
Good stuff for the height ajustement! How did you do that? Do you have a sketch of this?


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

Will check to see if I have some photos, otherwise will make a sketch. Give me a couple of days.


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## nbtx (Oct 4, 2019)

Ok, thank you !


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

Found the photos.
I had previously done this on a Makita, but wanted it back for handheld use - easy to reverse the modification.
This time, I did it on a Chinese 1900W router. The first photo shows the base of the router - you can see the roll pin inside the column. I cut the pins with a fine junior hacksaw blade and forced them apart. The spring and a follower, were inside one of the columns. The other column, in this particular router (but not the Makita), housed a fine depth adjustment control (red-topped shaft in 4th photo). I used that column for the allen head bolt, as it already had an opening on the top of the case - in your Ryobi, you would have to drill a hole (not if still under warranty!).
The second photo shows the allen head bolt, with a welded-on section of threaded rod, to achieve the needed length. Not ideal, as here acme threaded rods cost the earth, and acme nuts are even worse. I believe that, for a lot of money, one can get aviation bolts in long lengths. You will notice two washers, to provide a relatively low-friction bearing between the bottom of the allen head, and the cut bits of the spring roll (which are tapped back in, without binding the bolt).
The 3rd photo shows the long bolt inserted into the5 column. 5th photo shows a coupling nut screwd onto the top of the long bolt, with the router at full extension. I welded a lug onto the coupling nut, taking advantage of an existing bolt hole, to stop the nut rotating with the bolt.
6th phot shows a cap nut on the bolt - to stop overenthusiastic lowering of the router in the table.
The remaining photos show the router mounted in its plate (with a hole drilled to access the allen head bolt), above table height adjustment with a cordless drill, and the extent to which the router can be raised, once the springs have been removed. This router has a shaft lock, which can be reached under the table without much difficulty. I prefer the router plate screwed down, but if necessary, the table top is hinged to the frame, and is supported by gas struts if I want to raise it.
I put a piece of hex rod into the dial knob of an old radio, for fine adjustment. Because there is some backlash in the thread and bolt, I try to raise just below the needed height with the drill, then sneak up on the correct height with the knob. I can still use the column lock of the router, when it 9is at the correct height.
What I still need to do, is to rotate the router plate by 90 degrees, so that the access hole is at the front, leaving the fence undisturbed. Then I will try to move the router speed control and readout, to the front of the table - maybe.


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

Just to clarify, in both the machines I have modified, the springs were inside the columns, not outside as in your Ryobi.


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## nbtx (Oct 4, 2019)

Hello 
thank you for the photos and all the explanations.
As you mentioned, our two routers are not designed in the same way.
For me the springs are on the outside of the columns.
The passage of the columns is not open (unless drilling the 2 parts of the housing).
The fine depth adjustment control is not in the column but in a slide on the outside of the housing. I think I use this slide to pass my trimming screw.
I do not know yet if I will use a system similar to yours or if it would be possible to simply place a mounting bracket under the router, mount the adjustment rod (25 on the exploded view) with the rack in the other direction with the end which rests on the stand and use the adjustment dial to raise or lower the router. In this way I could even keep the setting fine. The problem is that the rod (25) and the toothed wheel (90) are plastic and I do not know if it is strong enough for this use (the router weighs 7.6kg / 16.7551Lb)


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

@ntbx
1. Please update your profile with a name - seems strange to address you in the abstract.
2. I have an older Ryobi 1600RE, which also as the springs inside the columns. I have not needed to modify it yet, as it is used hand-held. Your model is not yet released in South Africa.
3. Good lateral thinking, but it depends what you want to achieve.
a. If you want above-the-table height adjustment, your solution will not work.
b. I would also not trust the nylon parts to hold the weight - they are designed to adjust the height against the action of the springs, i.e. a much weaker force than the weight of the router.
c. You might be able to use an “extender” to engage a stronger replacement for Part90, so that you can change the height from the front or side of the table, rather than from the top.
d. I was going to suggest replacing one of the handles of the router, but I see that one has the switch, while the other has the speed control, so that it a non-starter. But perhaps a hook or clamp on a handle, with an attached nut, and a long bolt with an allen head in the router plate?


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

One more thing: your router has a spindle lock button, for changing the bit. Thta means you either need to be able to access it under the table, while using a spanner above the table (that is what I do), or you need to do what some of the guys here prefer, and that is to lift out the router-and-plate combination, change the bit, set an approximate height, and then drop the combination back into the table top and set the final height.


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## nbtx (Oct 4, 2019)

Profil updated! 


We agree on the problem of nylon parts.

Why do you think that my solution won't work with above-the-table height adjustment? Do you think putting a screw in the slide of the adjustment rod is not a good idea? The only problem is knowing where to place on the router the nut that slides on the screw...

Anyway, I note your idea of a hook or clamp on a handle ;-)
For the spindle lock button, it is clear that it is a really impractical system (push the button while tightening the nut, while placing the tool, I miss a hand lol). I'm thinking of a solution so that an element of the table can come to press this button when I want to change tool ... but it also means that the router should be at the same height every time I want to change 'tool. This probably involves bringing up the router completely and thus performing key manipulation from above. It should also be remembered that the button should not remain pressed at startup.
We can say that this router is not the most suitable for mounting under table lol. A lot of small challenges to take up.


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

@Nicolas,
I may not have fully understood what you were saying. 
What you have drawn is what I had in mind, but I understood that you wanted to keep the fine adjustment feature. To do what you have illustrated, will probably permanently change your machine, such that it will be difficult to revert to hand-held mode.
You will have to remove the rotating height-adjustment turret, and even drill through the base below it, for the long bolt. I suppose you could tap a thread in the hole and re-install the turret, should you change your mind.
Also, you may have to remove Part 90 - I think the gear teeth may not permit passage of the threaded rod, and the threads on the rod may damage the nylon gear teeth. You may even want to insert some thin-walled aluminium tubing, to ensure that the threads on the rod do not engage with some internal ridges in the depth-adjustment housing.
It should be possible to fit a nut onto the rod where it comes out of the router top cover, as in my photos. Use a washer or two to reduce friction with the housing. I used a coupling nut, but it is not strictly necessary - it just gave me more freedom to weld on a lug to prevent rotation of the nut. If you cannot weld, you could drill through the wall of the nut at an angle, and insert a metal pin to stop the rotation.
Alternatively, you could reduce the end of the threaded rod, and thread it with the same thread as the bolt holding the turret in place. Then you could adjust the height quite conveniently from under the table, using a longish hollow handle with a nut on the end of the tube. I made such a conversion for a friend of mine, who has an AEG router that is fairly similar to yours in design.
I have a large Ryobi router that already came with such a feature, and I have not found it necessary to modify it, even if it does not have the élan and éclat of above table adjustment with a cordless drill. 
The bit changing problem is less than you think: normally, you want the bit to be fully inserted in the collet, minus about 2mm. A number of the guys here advocate placing a 2-3mm O-ring inside the collet, and I have followed their advice. Then it is only necessary to drop the bit into the collet, and you have one hand to press in the button (under the table) and another to use the spanner (above the table). Some of the guys here hate that idea, but I am OK with it. The spindle-lock button should have a spring to disengage it when you release the pressure - I think part 14. In any case, I have developed the habit of rotating by hand, to make sure all is all right, before switching on.


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## nbtx (Oct 4, 2019)

Hi Biagio and thanks for all your advice 

There are several ideas that seem interesting to me.
No problem to remove the piece 90, it is just placed in its location and held by the housing once closed. Good idea the aluminum protection tube!
And I note the idea of placing an O-ring inside the collar .
In the coming days I will think about how to do it. In the first place I will see if there is a possibility to insert the nut into the cavity that currently contains the piece 90. There is very little space (since the adjustment rod is in front of the wheel toothed) but that would be ideal.
One last question: in your opinion what is the minimum diameter that can be chosen for the threaded rod? (I ask the question because this will determine the size of the nut that I will have to fit in the housing)

Thank you very much ;-)


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

@Nicolas,
I have kept to 8mm, as it is not just the weight of the router, but also some stress placed on the threaded rod while in use. But these have been heavy routers - you could probably getaway with 6mm high tensile rod. Even better if you can get acme thread rod and nut. 
The pitch of the thread is also important. I can use a fine thread, allowing very fine adjustment, when using the drill to make the big movements up or down. If the adjustment is by hand (like the big Ryobi),a coarser thread is better, otherwise you will be there all day. The big Ryobi has a 10mm rod.
What will you do about the toothed wheel?


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

I second the placement of an "O" ring if you're going to mount your 1600 Nicolas. I considered mounting mine in a table, but I did want to take it out for plunge routing also.
In the end I bought a Makita router for the table, as I just found the Ryobi too useful for hand-held routing. The good thing about the Makita is it came with an insert that holds the bit above the bottom, so I don't need to hold it. Ryobi won't have done that as it's not designed for table use.

How are you going to get around the trigger start, and speed control?

That was another thing I wasn't sure of. I didn't really want to use a cable tie to permanently pull the trigger, but I couldn't see any other way around it.

As to the spindle lock: perhaps a toggle clamp could be fitted like the picture below (not necessarily that one), that moved with the router? That way you could lock it on or off as needed?
Just trying to think of ideas


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

@1fizgig
Steve, if you have not already done so, do yourself a favour and mount a switch-socket combination at the front of your router table, with a cable going to your mains socket. Plug the router cable into the switch-socket. That way, it does not matter if the router’s own switch is held permanently on by a plastic tie (I use a largish worm-drive hose clamp).
The switch-socket should be of the zero volt release type (mandatory in many jurisdictions), such that if mains power is cut off for some reason, the router does not switch back on when power is restored.
Even better, the off button should have a mushroom head or an overlying paddle, so that you can bump it with a hip or elbow, in case of emergency.
I honestly have not found the spindle lock button to be a hassle to locate or operate under the table. I think any addition like a toggle clamp, is likely to increase the probability of skinning your fingers. Generally, you would take out the reducing ring in the router plate while changing bits, so you have a reasonable view of the button and the position of your fingers. 
If the plate does not have a removable reducing ring, do what Charles and others recommend, take the router and plate out, change bits, and drop back into place. You will have to do that, as it will not be generally possible to use a spanner above the table.


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

The speed control is a thornier matter. For the 1600, I doubt that it would be necessary to change the speed much - my oldest Hitachi is a single speed, and I only really need to reduce speed on the larger routers, when using large diameter bits - a bit of a strain on the Rt1600 anyway.
But for occasional needs, I have not found it too onerous to bend down, find the Speed control, and set the speed. On the chinese router, I have contemplated moving the speed control to the front of the table.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

@Biagio: Oh, I've already done that for the Makita, but it had a lock for the trigger, so it's not as bad as the Ryobi in that sense. It's plugged into a front-mounted switch I got with a cheap router table setup that suits trim routers only, as it was cheaper than buying the switching mechanism on its own. It also has no speed control, so one speed fits everything. One day I'll buy a speed controller for it perhaps, but for now the Makita in the table is working for me. The Ryobi is great as a handheld router and I love to use it. But I have been interested to see how Nicolas has been going, and maybe one day I'll need to replicate this, so it's always great to share


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## nbtx (Oct 4, 2019)

Hello everyone and thank you for the suggestions 
@Biagio:
Like you, I'm going to adopt an 8mm screw.
The hole diameter of the adjustment rod was 13mm. I think I will place a metal tube of 12mm / thickness 1mm. I ordered a screw for 3D printer (diameter 8mm, with a thread of 2mm) which comes with a brass nut with fixing holes. The base of the nut is wide and I intend to file so that it matches the shape of the housing so it will be locked in rotation. I will see at this point if I have to add fixing screws.
The 8mm screw ends with a 5mm smooth tip and will be connected to a hexagonal socket screw through a coupler sold in the same shop.
For the toothed wheel, I think I'll just remove it and put it away with the adjustment rod in case I decide to change my mind someday .
@steve:
For trigger and speed control I was going to use a cable tie just like you. Currently I do not have enough knowledge to move the speed control to the front of the table or anything like that. However, as recommended by Biagio I will actually put a switch on the front of the table, and an emergency stop button at the hip or elbow. I watched a video about accidents and precautions to take and it was a little traumatized I admit LOL.
Very good idea the toggle clamp! It is exactly this kind of system that I thought to push the spindle lock button and I did not know that it was marketed .


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## BeeKay40 (Jan 6, 2020)

I am late to the party ... but I just "completed" my router table for my workmate ... it might address some queries above - so have a look and feel free to engage in chit chat.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

@BeeKay40 Those are some great pictures. Nothing like some good ol' Kiwi ingenuity 

Great setup. Probably the only thing I'd mention is it doesn't really allow for a zero-clearance insert for smaller router bits than you have shown in the pictures, which could cause you a few issues.
What you could have done is rout a lipped opening to be able to drop zero clearance rings into place to suit whatever bit you're using at the time.


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## BeeKay40 (Jan 6, 2020)

1fizgig said:


> @BeeKay40 Those are some great pictures. Nothing like some good ol' Kiwi ingenuity <a href="http://www.routerforums.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" ></a>
> 
> Great setup. Probably the only thing I'd mention is it doesn't really allow for a zero-clearance insert for smaller router bits than you have shown in the pictures, which could cause you a few issues.
> What you could have done is rout a lipped opening to be able to drop zero clearance rings into place to suit whatever bit you're using at the time.


Hey... I am no Kiwi! Born and raised in SA! Gmph... 😡
😂😉

Thanks for the compliment. I agree 100% with you. But I just started making the table with little thought for the clearance. I used the wrong diameter hole saw and realised it the moment I was done. I couldn't rout a lip as there is not enough material and I wanted as little extra thickness as possible. That said, I will source a rourer plate at some point and fit it nicely, but I am in no rush.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

BeeKay40 said:


> Hey... I am no Kiwi! Born and raised in SA! Gmph... 😡
> 😂😉
> 
> Thanks for the compliment. I agree 100% with you. But I just started making the table with little thought for the clearance. I used the wrong diameter hole saw and realised it the moment I was done. I couldn't rout a lip as there is not enough material and I wanted as little extra thickness as possible. That said, I will source a rourer plate at some point and fit it nicely, but I am in no rush.


Hahahaha! Sorry Brend. I saw New Zealand as where you were living and reacted. As a Kiwi living in Oz, it's always nice to make connections to my homeland. It's funny, I get 50/50 calls as to whether I'm Kiwi or South African depending on where I am in Oz. 

I suspect the lip only needs to be maybe 2mm, and it looked like you might be using 6mm (I could be wrong, only guessing from the picture), which would be fine with the inserts. You'll want a few different sizes depending on the bit you're using. And the hole size shouldn't matter too much (unless it's too big for the inserts), as it needs to allow for depth changes of bigger bits too.


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## BeeKay40 (Jan 6, 2020)

1fizgig said:


> Hahahaha! Sorry Brend. I saw New Zealand as where you were living and reacted. As a Kiwi living in Oz, it's always nice to make connections to my homeland. It's funny, I get 50/50 calls as to whether I'm Kiwi or South African depending on where I am in Oz.
> 
> I suspect the lip only needs to be maybe 2mm, and it looked like you might be using 6mm (I could be wrong, only guessing from the picture), which would be fine with the inserts. You'll want a few different sizes depending on the bit you're using. And the hole size shouldn't matter too much (unless it's too big for the inserts), as it needs to allow for depth changes of bigger bits too.


:laugh2:
All good @1fizgig. Looking at the recent rugby world cup, I won't blame you for wanting to be the "other 50%". 

You are right again ... I didn't want to recess the opening as there is not a lot of material left. The router recess from the bottom is quite deep and there is about 5-6mm left. I am just conscious of weakening the table too much at that point. But, it is something worth considering. I will see where I can find inserts ... have not looked for it yet.


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## Bstrom (Jan 2, 2020)

Retrofitted my Bosch RA1181 table tonight with a Jessem Rout-R-Lift II - money well spent...


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## Bstrom (Jan 2, 2020)

Meant to add pix of my rolling router table with its vacuum unit piggybacking along...


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## Guv (Jan 24, 2020)

Hi everyone. New poster here. Thanks for all of the info in this thread. I have now learnt I need to remove the springs in my RTT1600 to work successfully with my home made router table. Can I ask, will this also allow the bit to be raised higher? Like perhaps the distance of the compressed spring? After all of my hard work, I am disappointed with the minimal bit height I can acheive? Thanks in advance! Guv


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Removing the springs, which is of course necessary, makes no difference to the to the depth of cut. A musclechuck would give about an extra half inch.


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## Guv (Jan 24, 2020)

Thank you Harry. I will investigate that. Cheers.


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## Guv (Jan 24, 2020)

Thanks nbtx. Those instructions were perfect. I had no trouble removing the springs. Cheers.


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