# How do you open the Freud router bit package?



## JennyMM (Jan 19, 2018)

Maybe dumb question, but this is HARD plastic with a hard plastic bottom. Says "pull", but not working! Tips? I also saw a post somewhere where the man couldn't remove the bit from the bottom part after he got it open. This is about 4 years old, don't think they make this packaging anymore. Help?


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

If the package is what I'm picturing, squeeze the sides of the plastic case and the clear lid should come off. When you get the lid off, the bit might be stuck in the black holder. You'll have to push up on the bottom of the holder and the bit will come out. Be careful with the bit, it will be sharp.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

remove the sealing tape 1st that wraps around the top and bottom pieces.....


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## JennyMM (Jan 19, 2018)

Thank you, Vince, got it!!!


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

JennyMM said:


> Maybe dumb question, but this is HARD plastic with a hard plastic bottom. Says "pull", but not working! Tips? I also saw a post somewhere where the man couldn't remove the bit from the bottom part after he got it open. This is about 4 years old, don't think they make this packaging anymore. Help?


Definitely not a dumb question! I struggle with this every time I buy one of their router, drill or any other of their products packaged that way.


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## JennyMM (Jan 19, 2018)

Thanks, Stick! Finally got it open!


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Something like that, I usually wind up using my pocket knife.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Just needs a little persuasion, Easiest way to open up Child proof packages


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Wrap a rag or cloth around the bit when you remove it the first handful of times. Those are some sharp cutters!!

David


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I slit the wrapper with a knife first along the join between the top and bottom, then press the sides. I keep a pair of leather gloves around when changing bits. Old skin cuts easily, and those bits are extremely sharp!


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Hi Jenny and welcome. Be very careful and don't drop the bits. The carbide tips are very hard and that is good but they are brittle and break easely. You probably already know that but just incase you didn't you do now.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

hawkeye10 said:


> Hi Jenny and welcome. Be very careful and don't drop the bits. The carbide tips are very hard and that is good but they are brittle and break easely. You probably already know that but just incase you didn't you do now.


I guess this rules out using a hammer... eh...


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

I love this forum.

There are answers for almost everything!!!


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

papasombre said:


> I love this forum.
> 
> There are answers for almost everything!!!


Maybe not an answer to every question, but certainly no dearth of opinions. :grin:


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

JennyMM said:


> Maybe dumb question, but this is HARD plastic with a hard plastic bottom. Says "pull", but not working! Tips? I also saw a post somewhere where the man couldn't remove the bit from the bottom part after he got it open. This is about 4 years old, don't think they make this packaging anymore. Help?


I agree that sometimes a 3 lb engineer's hammer is the most appropriate tool...… at least it makes me feel better.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wrap_rage There's even a term for the frustration


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## Hypnotoad (Apr 17, 2018)

I have one of those Bosch router bit sets and the slots where the router bits fit into are that tight I need to wear gloves to get them in and out, you would think they would make them a little looser as you can easily cut yourself using bare fingers.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

They're for display, Phill; you're not supposed to actually use them!  
(You buy a cheap set for that...)


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> I guess this rules out using a hammer... eh...


Nah, just nothing over a pound.


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## A Nose for Wood (Dec 14, 2018)

If you turn the case over you'll see a small hole on the bottom. Put the case in a vice upside down and using a pin set and hammer lightly tap the bit until its almost out then remove it from the vice and pull the rest of the bit out by hand.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

I've considered TNT.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

peel the label..
squeeze the sides..
pop the top...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Eat beef jerky...befriend Sasquatch...give him the package...

“Run with Sasquatch or run from him...”


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I run over it with the van a few times and then hop out and chop on it with a axe before it can reshape, by then the shank is sticking out and I hurry up and chuck it up in the route table and turn on the router, It takes care of the rest.
Herb


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> I run over it with the van a few times and then hop out and chop on it with a axe before it can reshape, by then the shank is sticking out and I hurry up and chuck it up in the route table and turn on the router, It takes care of the rest.
> Herb


The image is indelibly etched in my mind...not the package but the Jekyl/Hyde look that would have been on your face... 😂


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## mjadams61 (Dec 24, 2015)

With a shop full of sharp and cutting tools and you are having a bit of trouble opening a plastic container?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

mjadams61 said:


> With a shop full of sharp and cutting tools and you are having a bit of trouble opening a plastic container?


I have to admit they are tough, I requires some of those Sharp cutting tools to free them from captivity.
Herb


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Stockholm Syndrome...?


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## wingspar (Dec 14, 2018)

I read part of this thread a few days ago and was just baffled at the question.... Until I opened my first Freud bit package yesterday. I figured it out without referring back to this thread, but it was kind of a challenge. After using it just once, it is sure much nicer than those cheap bits. Much easier to follow those pencil lines and a nice clean cut.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Never use force, just get a bigger hammer!


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## A Nose for Wood (Dec 14, 2018)

I turn it upside down, lock it in a vice and use a pin punch to gently tap it almost out of the case then grab the shank and pull it out the rest of the way.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Here's the thing; why are the end users being made to look like frustrated idiots, by masochistic packaging designers. 
Pretty sure that almost all router bit display/merchandiser cabinets are locked to prevent shoplifting, so why all the ridiculous plastic packaging???
Having endured the torture of trying to extract a bit, why aren't all woodworkers using DIY bit storage methods?


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## BladesNBarrels (Mar 31, 2019)

Thanks for the basics.
I needed a tip for removing the bits from the black plastic block that retained a CNC starter pack of 8 bits.
The hammer and punch method worked with two blocks of wood supporting the upside-down block and tapping a punch forcing the bits out of the block onto a soft rag.
One of the first CNC projects will be custom building a bit rack to hold the router bits.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Hi David and welcome to the forum. I've made 2 types of holders. You can make them from wood but you need a 1/32 or 1/64 larger drill bit to drill the holes or they are hard to get out. That's a bit of a problem for the 1/2" bits as most of us don't have one that size. I guess you could program a CNC to make it that size though. I built another router table last year but with a cabinet and drawers this time and I filled the drawers with common white styrofoam. I tried drilling the styro but that didn't work so I took a pencil type soldering iron and just melted the holes in and that worked fine. Every so often I had to unplug the iron and let it cool a bit. Just poking the iron in worked well for the 1/4" and for the 1/2" I had to wiggle it around a bit. I was very pleased with the way it turned out.


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## BladesNBarrels (Mar 31, 2019)

Hi,
I completed a class at WoodCraft Denver yesterday, Introduction to CNC.
I think the capabilities of the Shark will allow me to use the CNC to make a holder.
Great to know about the over-sizing proportions for the holes. 
The instructor indicated that closed cell foam would be a good candidate for the CNC.
I like the use of the soldering iron for an alternate solution.
Thank you for the response!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

David; welcome, if i hadn't already said!
Check out the foam sheet goods they use in the signage industry....
https://www.grimco.com/Catalog/Category/Substrates/FoamSubstrates


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## BladesNBarrels (Mar 31, 2019)

Hi Dan,
Thanks for the link. There are some good choices where the description states that it produces chips when cut with CNC.
In the class, we cut Ash, Walnut, and MDF. The MDF produced sawdust and dust collection was a problem. 
The ash and walnut produced chips and cleaned up a lot better.
I will have to figure out how to deal with the basic sheet sizes of 4' x 8' when I buy the foam.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Use closed cell sponge foam rubber (like the Rubber Plumbing Pipe Insulation) in ¾''± wide by 1½ ~ 2'' thick strips STOOD ON EDGE and laid tightly together a drawer...
mastic (like PL-300) in the strips in if you wish..
no holes to drill or crosses to cut... just put the bits in between the strips...
infinite spacing is one fell swoop...

Kill two birds with one stone.
First is a spacing issue. It always seems that the uniform holes are either too close or too far apart, which eats up the space.
Second, is using a "hard" holder (wood, MDF, etc). The holes always seem to be too loose or too tight as use, temperature and humidity grows and shrinks the holes.
You get the best in flexibility with infinite spacing and self adjustable tension on the bit shafts.

I rescued the cut off scraps from a foam rubber seller...

can't argue that price...


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## BladesNBarrels (Mar 31, 2019)

Thanks Stick!
The spacing had me a little concerned. I am sure I will be breaking some bits as I learn, and flexibility adding spares seems to be solved with your solution.
The forums are already paying for the membership fee!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Fee? What Stinkin' Fees?!*



BladesNBarrels said:


> Thanks Stick!
> The spacing had me a little concerned. I am sure I will be breaking some bits as I learn, and flexibility adding spares seems to be solved with your solution.
> *The forums are already paying for the membership fee!*


Yes! A toofer...


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

A can opener will open those tough to cut plastic packages. Just turn the handle and the cutter cuts it open.


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