# Prototype "Micro" Adjuster



## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

I saw a micro adjuster online and thought that I could come up with something that would cost a lot less. I made this from very little scrap and hardware I had laying around. I'm sure it could be made for less than $5. It needs a little tweeking but this is the first try. Please let me know what you think and any ideas you may have, thanks.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

I like it, Mike. The price is right, it works, and it's simple with no frills. The spring is a nice touch that I hadn't considered before. I need to re-evaluate the one I made for my drill press.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Gaffboat said:


> I like it, Mike. The price is right, it works, and it's simple with no frills. The spring is a nice touch that I hadn't considered before. I need to re-evaluate the one I made for my drill press.


What? Oliver is impressed by someone! Usually, it is the other way around. :wink::sarcastic:

However, I'm in agreement. It doesn't always have to be pretty or expensive to get from point "A" to point "B".

Bill


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Mike, I have been saying for years it doesn't have to be fancy or pretty... it just has to work. Good job.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Simplicity at its best.


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

That's it gentlemen, simple and cheap but it works well. It's better than spending $20 on a bolt and a magnet!!


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Pretty cool. Thanks for sharing. My router table could use one of those. I need to add it to the list of things I need to build.


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## PaulH (May 30, 2012)

mbar57 said:


> I saw a micro adjuster online and thought that I could come up with something that would cost a lot less. I made this from very little scrap and hardware I had laying around. I'm sure it could be made for less than $5. It needs a little tweeking but this is the first try. Please let me know what you think and any ideas you may have, thanks.


Nice job.

But my gosh your shop must be very fancy, lounge suite and cushions!!! no dust. Impressed. I can just see you in a recumbent posture waiting for eureka moments like this one.

Cheers
Paul


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

Hey, I think better when I'm comfortable!!


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

What locks the fence in place?


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

Ghidrah said:


> What locks the fence in place?


I still use the cam locks that have always been on the fence. I just unlock the one on the side with the adjuster, turn the knob to move the fence and lock the cam. There's pictures of my table here http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/66273-my-first-try-portable-table-sled.html


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

mbar57,
Gotcha, now I can see the sliver of gold clamp thing in your latest pics, well done!


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## roryw (Sep 2, 2009)

Thank you for sharing this!
Simple Sophistication at its best.

Rory


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## sjama6678 (Aug 22, 2012)

wow, that is really cool...I am gonna give it a go!
I get frustrated with the "tap-tap-tap-bump-and re check routine", thanks!


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

Awesome!! Let me know how it goes. I've been using mine and I think it's great. Get some pics on here if you make any changes. I'd love see what modifications guys make to it. Thank you!! Hmmm, I wonder if I could charge $25 for an idea?!


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## bxmkr3 (Nov 3, 2013)

This is really good! I've been thinking there's got to be a simple solution for a small adjuster but haven't committed the time to making it. Usually when I make any type of tool it generally takes at least 3 tries to get a functional model - You've done 1 and 2 for me so thank you very much.
Why 2 springs?


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

boxmaker3 said:


> This is really good! I've been thinking there's got to be a simple solution for a small adjuster but haven't committed the time to making it. Usually when I make any type of tool it generally takes at least 3 tries to get a functional model - You've done 1 and 2 for me so thank you very much.
> Why 2 springs?


Thank you sir!! I added the 2nd spring because the first one wasn't quite strong enough to push the fence. One nice stiff spring would work just fine,


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## Straightlines (May 15, 2013)

*Bring on the maggot*



mbar57 said:


> That's it gentlemen, simple and cheap but it works well. It's better than spending $20 on a bolt and a magnet!!


True. For another $1 you can add that rare-earth maggot + steel and 
then you'll have it all.

Nice jig!


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## FreeTime (Dec 2, 2012)

mbar57 said:


> I saw a micro adjuster online and thought that I could come up with something that would cost a lot less. I made this from very little scrap and hardware I had laying around. I'm sure it could be made for less than $5. It needs a little tweeking but this is the first try. Please let me know what you think and any ideas you may have, thanks.


Mike,

If I'm seeing this correctly, you lock down the micro-adjuster with the C-clamp once the fence is positioned more of less where you want it? If not true, can you explain it a little - I'm missing it.

If you do have to re-clamp between setups, did you have any thoughts / ideas on a more permanent mounting / quick adjustment mechanism? 

I went a similar route. I like the fine adjustment it provides (18tpi over a 3ft pivot length) but its a nuisance as the back of my table is a little inaccessible. I have to disconnect for each setup. (I can provide pics if needed). I'm looking to build version 2.0.

I thought about using one of those Rockler blue quick release knobs but that only allows positive movement in one direction.

Thanks
Mark


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

FreeTime said:


> Mike,
> 
> If I'm seeing this correctly, you lock down the micro-adjuster with the C-clamp once the fence is positioned more of less where you want it? If not true, can you explain it a little - I'm missing it.
> 
> ...


Hey Mark, you have the idea, however I used the C clamp so that I could remove the fence if need be.(as you can see it's not much of a router table) I could easily attach the rear piece permanently as long as the bolt and springs are long enough. Than I just get it close using the cam lock on the side without the adjuster, and use the adjuster from there to fine tune.
Another thought I did have was, instead of using a carriage bolt put a small piece of "T" track in the part mounted to the fence and simply use a standard 1/4-20 bolt or a 5/16 "T" bolt. This would solve your problem of getting to the back of the saw, you could simply slide the bolt out. There's also no reason I can think of that if you reversed everything that it couldn't be permanently mounted and then again you wouldn't have to get to the back of the table.
I hope this makes an ounce of sense to someone, because I think I just lost myself. :no: Please let me know and I'll try to do a better job of explaining myself!!


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## Steve S (Jul 14, 2015)

*sorry to be a little slow but,*

I can't quite figure out how it works - I see a lateral slide. How does the fence on the springs lock in place?

If you could add a couple of pics of the whole assembly from a distance front, and side, taken about 3 feet back it would help.

Thank you.

S.


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

No problem Steve, just give me a little time.


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

*More pics*

Alright my friend, here's the pics. I stole the through knob for another jig until I pick one up, so I just put a nut on it for now. Hope these help, if not shoot me a PM and we'll figure something out, I'm happy to help out however I can. I guess I could add a little more info. here DUH. So looking at the first picture you can see the two gold cam locks which lock the fence in place. To set it up I unlock both and move the left side(in the picture, so from the rear) and get the fence close to where I want it, and then lock that cam. Then I move to the adjuster, if I loosen the knob the spring pushes the fence forwards, and when I tighten it the fence is pulled back. Once I get it where I want it, I lock the cam on this side and I'm in business. Where you may be getting confused is the piece that's clamped down. Keep in mind, that it's not threaded, the bolt just slides through.


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## Steve S (Jul 14, 2015)

*OK, try again...*

Looks like great work; nice close ups, but how does it work???

As requested, try a pic about 3 feet back, how does it mount?


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

Steve S said:


> Looks like great work; nice close ups, but how does it work???
> 
> As requested, try a pic about 3 feet back, how does it mount?


Steve, did you read the paragraph above the pictures? There are several pictures that at least 3ft. away. The small piece in the fence is fixed to the fence, it doesn't move. The bigger piece with the knob is fixed to the table and the bolt is free to slide through it. With the spring between them, when I loosen the knob the spring pushes the fence forward. When I tighten the knob it pulls the fence back.


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## Hobbit123 (Aug 11, 2016)

I suspect some people are struggling with the concept because they don't realise you're only pivoting one end of the fence? Just a thought.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

mbar57 said:


> Awesome!! Let me know how it goes. I've been using mine and I think it's great. Get some pics on here if you make any changes. I'd love see what modifications guys make to it. Thank you!! Hmmm, I wonder if I could charge $25 for an idea?!


Some people do...

Thanks for sharing...spring is great idea to eliminate the backlash issue...nice...


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