# table insert



## EPC (Aug 16, 2005)

OK peoples. I'd like to put a 1/4" X 12" square tile in the middle of a table top. Whats the best way of routing out that 12" sq area? What ways would you sugest to make a jig for that router to follow? What bits would you suggest? Thanking you all in advance.
EPC


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

There are several ways which will work, this is how I would handle this job: Get a piece of 1/4" hardboard and mark a square 12-1/2", cut it out with a jig saw and sand it smooth. Tape it to your table top with double sided carpet tape. Use a 3/4" guide bushing and a 1/2" plunge bit. Set the stop on your router so the bit can only plunge 1/2" in depth. Make your cut. This will give you a nice clean border. Now you can go back and hog out the remaining wood. This is a great job for TemplateTom's Ski mode.


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## cbsjoez1935 (Mar 14, 2007)

Hi EPC,

The simplest way to get your job done would be to clamp 4 flat sticks onto that table, in a square. The equal distance between them would equal the distance from your router plate's edge to the edge of the cutting bit. You could use a 3/4" bottoming bit in a plunge router, set to the depth you want the tile to be recessed in the table and then "Hog Out" the recess. You will still need to square up the edges with a chisel. You could also make a template out of 1/4" plywood and use a guide bushing following its inner outline, allowing for the bit diameter and the bushing used.Other members will also have their methods of doing this job, so keep alerted for their posts. Good luck with your project.

Joe Z.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi EPC

This is what I would do.

Cut up some MDF stock a make a frame like the one below, place the tile where you want it to be then put the frame boards around the tile, then remove the title and put the 6" x 6" sq. part in the center of the frame and router the pocket out for the title then remove the 6" x 6" part and hog out the center of the pocket...
I would use 1/4" thick stock for the frame then once you pull out the 6" x 6" center part drop in some 1/2" thick MDF stock on the inside of the frame to keep the hog out flat and true in the center of the 12" x 12" pocket..

I would also suggest a SKI jig if you have one made up but if not keep it simple as you can,,, it's a one time thing....the norm... 



I would use a pattern bit like the one below..
* Dado Clean Out Router Bits*

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_dado.html

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EPC said:


> OK peoples. I'd like to put a 1/4" X 12" square tile in the middle of a table top. Whats the best way of routing out that 12" sq area? What ways would you sugest to make a jig for that router to follow? What bits would you suggest? Thanking you all in advance.
> EPC


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

I'm not sure I would leave a full piece for the top and rout it out. This does not allow for wood movement. I would make a frame like either a picture frame or as rails and stiles would be on a panel door. Then I would sit the tile on hardboard or plywood which is glued into the frame. Sorry, but I'm not sure what level you are at in woodworking, so I could explain it in more detail if needed.

~Julie~


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## Rolf Maxa (Feb 8, 2005)

My fear on the method described would be that if the router tips it could create a problem. As Mike points out this would be a good job for TemplateTom's Ski method.
Just my 2 cents.


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## EPC (Aug 16, 2005)

Thanks Mike,Bobj3,Joe z,Julie,Rolf and anyone else that replys,
Lots of good ideas to think about. Just ask and help is on the way.
EPC


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mike, I know that you're checking if I'm "still with it", hence the incorrect off-set calculation in your post.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

These shots should give you a better idea of what we are suggesting, one shows how simple it is to make a quick accurate template, the other how it's done with a ski mounted router but skis are not essential, you can make a large sub-base for the router to give it stability. In order to calculate the size of the opening in the template : guide diameter minus cutter diameter plus required size of routed opening. Therefore, if we initially use a 3/4" guide and a 1/4" cutter (keeping it small will give a smaller radius in the corners to be squared) the "hole" in the template will be 12 1/2" or to be technical, the offset is 1/4".
Once the border is routed you can increase the diameter of cutter to hog out the rest. If you require a perfect finish, make the final cut about 1/32"
Regarding the photos., disregard the text and measurements, they were from earlier threads of mine.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Yep, you catch me every time Harry. I will slip one by you eventually.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Marlene and I are going to have to take it in turns to monitor your posts from now on, to make sure nothing goes by unnoticed!


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