# Router Tips and Techniques of the Day!



## Admin (Feb 13, 2012)

What tips have you learned in your experience using a router that you wish you knew earlier? 

What simple things do you do that save you time, effort, money, or just makes life easier for you? 

Let's learn from each other and share our tips! 

To keep this thread going come back each day to share a tip and read the latest posts.


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## Admin (Feb 13, 2012)

Chip Free Flush Trimming
http://youtu.be/JSQgTFhSwxs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSQgTFhSwxs


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bearing guided bits as a 1st choice over router guide bushings when ever possible...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Learning how to make jigs. There is no way to get from beginner to master without them.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

My tip for the 'back yard' wood worker would be to buy and learn the benefits of a set of guide bushings.


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## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

*fence pivoting*

With the router mounted in a table I make two different profiles on a box lid without changing the bit height. The bit I use is a classic ogee from Lee Valley. I set the fence approximately where it will need to be. On one end of the fence I drill a 3/8" hole through the fence support and through the table (home made fence and table). I insert a 3/8" bolt. This bolt is never removed. The other end I clamp the fence and adjust the fence until I get the deepest profile I'll want. This is generally a classic ogee cut. I drill a 3/8" hole through the fence at the end where the clamp is - hole through the fence support and tabletop. I then move the fence closer to the front of the table clamping it as I go until I get the 2nd profile. This profile is a slight round-over. I then drill another hole through the end of the fence support and tabletop where the clamp is. I put the two hole an inch or so apart. Now if I want to put a classic ogee cut on a box top I put a 3/8" bolt in the correct hole in the fence and on through the tabletop and make my cut. To make a round over on the bottom side of the box lid I pull the bolt out and move the fence toward the front of the table and put the 3/8" bolt into the other hole. Works perfect every time without changing the bit.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

good idea...
box is very nicely done too...


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

Great idea, Malcolm. I have some of this work coming up, and I think you have saved me a lot of time and aggravation. Jim


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## Admin (Feb 13, 2012)

Router Bit Speeds by WoodWorkers Guild Of America
Woodworking Tips: Router - Router Bit Speeds - YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOUF2Cmq2ws


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Router tips for beginners 

Routing - Some Beginners' Tips


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Learning how to make jigs. There is no way to get from beginner to master without them.


Thanks for the tip on the magazine


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## Admin (Feb 13, 2012)

This guy makes me smile...

SNW46- Build your own homemade WoodRat / Router Boss / Leigh Super FMT (part 1 of 2)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VgWTsISvPAI

http://youtu.be/VgWTsISvPAI


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

This thread needs more participation. So here's another one. A lot of fine adjustments on the router fence can be done visually by making a pencil mark on the table against the fence for a reference point. You can adjust that end by judging the distance moved which will only be 1/2 that much at the bit. I find it works pretty good most of the time.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Make templates for some of you most used router bits, especially those for dado's.

To get the measurements, simply take a piece of scrap and make a cut using a straight edge. Measure the distance from the straight edge and make a template that width for that bit.

Repeat for your different width bits. (same principal can be applied to your circular saw, jig saw, etc.)

Now, all you have to do to set up for a cut is break out the straight edge and the template to set the straight edge clamp the correct distance.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

This applies to shop work in general. When you get petroleum stains (grease) on your shirt or pants, before putting them in the washer take some waterless hand cleaner and work it into the affected areas of the garment. Then toss the garment into the wash as you would normally do. The waterless hand cleaner dissolves the grease stain and since the waterless hand cleaner is water soluble, both it and the petroleum stain are removed. Itb works so well that we keep a large can of Goop waterless hand cleaner on the shelf next to the washer so we can readily use it as garments are being put into the washer. I discovered this while working as a factory rep on large offset printing presses. The oil based ink and special greases were tough to get out until we began using Goop. bI always had perfectly clean and like new uniforms to wear after that.

Charley


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## Admin (Feb 13, 2012)

Keep the tips coming y'all!

How to Build a Circle Cutting Jig for Your Router
http://youtu.be/pSf4eMgGHWo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSf4eMgGHWo


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## Admin (Feb 13, 2012)

Wood Tips: Router - Zero Clearance Router Table Fence
Wood Tips: Router - Zero Clearance Router Table Fence - YouTube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EJ6u9YH1fBI


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cricket said:


> This guy makes me smile...
> 
> SNW46- Build your own homemade WoodRat / Router Boss / Leigh Super FMT (part 1 of 2)
> 
> ...


Cricket , he's saying he couldn't copy anyone else's copyrighted design (although his threaded rod sure reminds me of Incra's LS positioner)
But if it's not for resale and your building it for yourself , can you not use anyone's past idea you want, patent pending or not ?


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

bump


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## jpmcmanu (Feb 23, 2014)

Good information.


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## Botelho007 (Sep 23, 2012)

*The method of the concave cut.*

Another great idea here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0p_iU8UqvlQ


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Thanks for that one, Claudio. Great idea.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Making the top pivot vertically adjustable would allow for a more or less concave bowl effect...in other words shortening or lengthening the radius of the swing.


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## KomputerMan (Mar 3, 2014)

When cutting nothing but the router moves!!! Especially important when cutting inlays out of the stock wood. :agree:



Cricket said:


> What tips have you learned in your experience using a router that you wish you knew earlier?
> 
> What simple things do you do that save you time, effort, money, or just makes life easier for you?
> 
> ...


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

*Round tenon jig*

Hi, guys.

I think that my jig to make round tenons using a trimer could be my best one


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> Cricket , he's saying he couldn't copy anyone else's copyrighted design (although his threaded rod sure reminds me of Incra's LS positioner)
> But if it's not for resale and your building it for yourself , can you not use anyone's past idea you want, patent pending or not ?


I know this post is about a month old but I can't find anything about this machine on SN's site. Did his project fall off the face of the earth? The design looks intriguing.

It could be that him selling designs is consider infringement. However, I think Incra style threaded rod positioning (well, actually JoinTech but who's counting) is old enough to be out of patent protection. There may be some protection on the locking mechanism which is different from the old JoinTech IPM that they copied (or licensed). I'm sure all those guys are patenting every little nuance they can think of.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Lots of stuff can't be patented too. A threaded rod would have something rally unique about it to get a patent.


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## curly1 (May 7, 2010)

I do a bit of prop work for our local youth theater group, swords and knives and such and using a safety guide pin and bearing bits on my routerworkshop router table has made it a lot safer and easier, after a bit of experience you can achieve quite a bit.


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## Rockenroller58 (Apr 29, 2014)

Ive learned to that proper setup and patience is the key to a successful job using a router, I always run a piece of scrap through to test my measurements, before hand, as well, all the feather boards and 'extra hands' that are available and at your disposal should be used.
I built hundreds of feet2 of custom baseboards out of 1X4s this summer, turned out great and I learned a lot.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Lots of stuff can't be patented too. A threaded rod would have something rally unique about it to get a patent.


just saw this post. Chuck, you would be surprised what passes muster in patents. In the case of threaded rod, it's not the rod but how you use it. I'd be willing to bet that the jointech notched "slip thread" thingy that allows the fence to move quickly but still be micropositioned was/is patented.

I've done a lot of work with patents and have a patent on the use of -1 in certain circumstances. Well, actually my former employer owns the patent, I just have my name on it.


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## ksidwy (Jul 13, 2013)

As a beginner, build jigs, improved so much my knowledge about router. Sid


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

My tip 
Read the forum,even posts not relevant to what you are doing or interested in doing.


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## Rogerdodge (Apr 24, 2014)

al m said:


> My tip
> Read the forum,even posts not relevant to what you are doing or interested in doing.


+ 1 on that , Al . I have learnt things that I didn't know I didn't know !


:yes4:


Rog


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

al m said:


> My tip
> Read the forum,even posts not relevant to what you are doing or interested in doing.


best one yet...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

There was a post recently by someone building a curved frame. He had a template made with the correct radius for the inside curve but didn't know a simple method for getting the outside curve right. Here are 3 methods.

You can make another template by simply tracing around the old old one using a dowel the length you want the offset to be and holding a pencil against it. If you keep the pencil and dowel reasonably close to perpendicular it will work fine. Even an angle of 10* will make very little difference. This is the method the member used for his project and he said it was quick and accurate.

The second method is to take a board slightly wider than than the offset you need and then make a notch in the center of one side for the pencil to sit in and follow the original template. It is the same as the above method for accuracy and it's easy to judge the distance from the ends of the board to the original radius to stay close to perpendicular at the pencil. Both of the first two methods are really good approximations of the original curve and usually that is all you need.

The 3rd method is the most accurate but is the most involved to set up. You need to cut a circle that has the same radius as the offset you want. Once you have it you drill the center of the circle enough to get a pencil snugly in it. Then you roll it around the edge of your original curve. If the pencil is dead center the new curve will be exactly the same as the original.


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## oldwoodenshoe (Nov 28, 2011)

Have you ever had difficulty trying to hold a router bit to keep it from bottoming out against the router shaft while tightening the collet nut with two wrenches when installing a bit into your router?

I use to have that problem, but I don't anymore. I drop a space ball (1/4" rubber ball used to center raised panels into the rail and styles of doors) into the collet of my router (1 ball in a 1/4" collet, 2 balls into the 1/2" collet). Then I install a bit into the router. I let it drop down until it contacts the space ball(s). I then use router collet wrenches to tighten the bit in the collet. This allows the bit to bottom out against the space balls but prevents the bit from bottoming out to the bottom of the collet/router shaft and working loose when using the router due to not tightening the collet properly. When you do this method, you don't have to raise the bit up off of the router shaft when tightening. The space balls will collapse enough to never cause a problem.

Glenn


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## Ellsbridge (Nov 17, 2011)

Problems with poor quality cuts often occur when a router bit is coated with wood resin. Wood resin obscures the cutting edge and generates more bit-killing heat. Even without sharpening, cleaning the bit with a good quality blade and bit cleaner, using a brass brush, often restores a bit to like new condition. The difference in cut quality can be startling.


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

And speaking of brass brushes,I use a golf brush,get them almost anywhere


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## billbeach (Sep 17, 2014)

I used to have a problem removing the bit when done cutting. I found that a very light tap on the router chuck would allow the bit to slide right out.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

al m said:


> And speaking of brass brushes,I use a golf brush,get them almost anywhere


Never heard of a golf brush, but then again, I don't play golf. Looked them up and looks like a good idea though! Thanks.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Stick486 said:


> bearing guided bits as a 1st choice over router guide bushings when ever possible...


I really must question your reason for that statement Stick, it intrigues me.


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## Botelho007 (Sep 23, 2012)

*How to make a lock mitre joint*

More of the same, but more clearly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtTAJO1Paj0


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

harrysin said:


> I really must question your reason for that statement Stick, it intrigues me.


I was referring to the guides that mount directly to the router...
bearings give the edge to accuracy..
less to contend w/....
better router control...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

harrysin said:


> I really must question your reason for that statement Stick, it intrigues me.


and.....
welcome back Harry...
good to see ya...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Yeah! Harry's back!!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Yeah! Harry's back!!


I hope he stays...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

harrysin said:


> I really must question your reason for that statement Stick, it intrigues me.


another item...
way safer when climb cutting....


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Stick486 said:


> I was referring to the guides that mount directly to the router...
> bearings give the edge to accuracy..
> less to contend w/....
> better router control...


Stick, my new found friend Stick, I've studied this answer of yours for several minutes and can only assume that you are taking over from where Bob left off, the game that we called ping pong where we picked errors in each others posts whether they were made on purpose or accidentally in order to keep the forum amused and at the same time end up with accurate advice.
In my humble opinion, if there is any difference in accuracy between bearing bits and template guides, I have to say that based on my own extensive experience template guides would be ahead. The same goes for router control, little if any difference but if there is, the template guide would win.
I must make it clear to members that I use both of these methods, there are procedures where one is more suited than the other. This project which I posted some time ago shows the use of template guides and bearing bits.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Stick486 said:


> and.....
> welcome back Harry...
> good to see ya...


Thank you Stick but I'm not sure if it's going to be on a daily basis as before. I did post an explanation for my absence but it was deleted as was the second edited one as unsuitable! I'll take this opportunity to thank all those members who sent me PM's and emails of welcome, I have answered most and hope to answer the rest within the next couple of hours. I also thank all those members who have kept in regular touch with me by PM's and emails, particularly Jerry Bowen who exchanges emails with me on a daily basis.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Stick486 said:


> another item...
> way safer when climb cutting....


Again Stick I just cannot see any logic in that statement, all my queries on this subject refer to hand held plunge routing, a method, like routing with skis that I've gone out of my way to teach newcomers to the wonderful world of routing where there is so much more to it than hanging a router below a table.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

One more method and the one I always use: Find a washer who's distance from the inside edge of the hole to the outer edge of the washer is the measurement you need. Insert a pencil and roll it around smaller disc's circumference. 
Works just as well for straight lines, too.



Cherryville Chuck said:


> There was a post recently by someone building a curved frame. He had a template made with the correct radius for the inside curve but didn't know a simple method for getting the outside curve right. Here are 3 methods.
> 
> You can make another template by simply tracing around the old old one using a dowel the length you want the offset to be and holding a pencil against it. If you keep the pencil and dowel reasonably close to perpendicular it will work fine. Even an angle of 10* will make very little difference. This is the method the member used for his project and he said it was quick and accurate.
> 
> ...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

harrysin said:


> Stick, my new found friend Stick, I've studied this answer of yours for several minutes and can only assume that you are taking over from where Bob left off, the game that we called ping pong where we picked errors in each others posts whether they were made on purpose or accidentally in order to keep the forum amused and at the same time end up with accurate advice.
> In my humble opinion, if there is any difference in accuracy between bearing bits and template guides, I have to say that based on my own extensive experience template guides would be ahead. The same goes for router control, little if any difference but if there is, the template guide would win.
> I must make it clear to members that I use both of these methods, there are procedures where one is more suited than the other. This project which I posted some time ago shows the use of template guides and bearing bits.


way cool PDF Harry...
thanks...

what I meant was to use a bearing guided bit over a router guide as 1st choice when ever possible...

if only I could copy and paste my mind's eye...

this kind of guide...


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

I think when it comes to guides it is all subjective. Of course, there are applications each one has it's merits. An edge guide like Stick just posted is my favorite for flush trimming laminate or edge banding, because it works best in my opinion by keeping me from tipping the router.

Template guides like Harry showed in his clock project allow you to sneak up on a cut, and prevent a lot of template damage that can be caused by operator error using pattern bits. Of course, you have to make sure that the guide is properly centered on your router bit, or you're going to drive yourself crazy trying to figure out what you're doing wrong.

Bearing guided bits are best for tighter corners, and they are fast to set up. Of course, bearings vary in quality, and can sometimes introduce error themselves. That is why I prefer to guide off of the fence instead of a bearing in table operations.

Whatever you are most comfortable with, go for it. Just remember there are lots of different ways to do the same thing, and don't be afraid to experiment and find what works best.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

kp91 said:


> I think when it comes to guides it is all subjective. Of course, there are applications each one has it's merits. An edge guide like Stick just posted is my favorite for flush trimming laminate or edge banding, because it works best in my opinion by keeping me from tipping the router.
> 
> Template guides like Harry showed in his clock project allow you to sneak up on a cut, and prevent a lot of template damage that can be caused by operator error using pattern bits. Of course, you have to make sure that the guide is properly centered on your router bit, or you're going to drive yourself crazy trying to figure out what you're doing wrong.
> 
> ...


I'm not averse to using an edge guide Doug in fact I'm pretty sure that I did just that somewhere in this project that I posted a while back. You should know me by now Doug, I use whichever method that I consider to be the best/fastest/etc for the job in hand and I've made this very point on many occasions. It's nice to catch up with you Doug.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Nice to see you Harry.


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## simsy (Jul 22, 2007)

To stop my router bits bottoming out in the router's shaft I have a snug fitting 1/2" o-ring living in there. Just drop the bit in onto the o-ring and tighten the collet. Do the same with my 1/4" router. Don't have to worry about the depth of the bit in the collet. They always fit tightly when the collet is done up.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

I find using my router on small pieces is sometimes uncomfortable, for example, routing through a small piece to make a slot...It seems fairly easily done by the veterans in the group and I certainly look to the day when it is comfortable for me as well. In the meantime, I put this together originally as a jig for making louvre shutters but have found it useful for many other things...maybe it will help you as well...

The space between the pieces that are not slotted fits my palm router exactly...putting stops behind or in front of the router will limit the travel, if needed.

The slotted pieces and knobs accommodate when I need to cut at an angle...

The darker pieces with slots accommodate clamping the piece to be cut...

My tip...? I find it a great learning experience making something that makes my job easier or more comfortable...I'm sure I will stop using some of the jigs or templates I've made or maybe they were single-purpose...for now they are serving a purpose.

Nick


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## mist34 (Mar 3, 2015)

*router speed*

A European standard considers that a carbide cutter should run at a speed between 30 and 70 m/s, this means between 90 and 210 ft/s. For a router at max speed (22000 rpm), a 1" bit would have the minimum peripheric speed, 90 ft/s. This means that a smaller bit runs too slow, fortunately it works all the same !
So I start slowing down my router for bits over 1" diameter. For a 2" bit I would use 11000 rpm. I also slow down if my bit burns the wood (I first sharpen it), and increase the speed if the cut is not clean.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Those are some really great ideas, keep them coming.


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2014)

*zero clearance*

That is an awesome tip cricket, iam learinging so much from you and others its incredible.:dirol:


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## Larkan (Apr 13, 2012)

Harry many thanks for your generous contributions. I just watched your ski making video and reminded myself I need one of those, so thanks again.
Kerry


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## oldbilbo (Nov 10, 2008)

*Edge to edge dinghy-boat planking*

I'm a bit diffident making an offering to this 'masters' forum' but in case it helps someone....

I watched a skilled boatbuilder 'mate' the thin planking strips - you might call them veneers, except these were ~90" x ~8-10" x 3 mm strips of bendy marine plywood - which were laid up onto the framework ( bulkheads and stringers ) of a new pair of 45' catamaran hulls.

The first strip was secured using an electric staple gun with Monel staples - which wouldn't be removed, saving a lot of 'making good'. The second strip-plank was affixed parallel to and about 1/8" from the first, using a few 'holding' staples with string or banding tape strips underneath so they could readily be removed without gouging.

Then a handheld router - MOF96 - with a 1/4" cutter was run along the gap between the two strips. That left a pair of adjacent edges which, when the 'holding' staples were removed, mated together perfectly. New Monel staples were then used to hold the planks in final position..... one could use nylon staples if available.

When the whole hull was clad in this way, Layer Two was started at 45 - 60 degrees to Layer One, with a coat of epoxy resin between. This sealed the thin ply against moisture ingress and added considerably to final strength and rigidity.

A third layer of ply, with epoxy, was added the same way to make a very strong and stiff compound-curve plywood 'cold moulded' structure. Admirers think the tight curves imply a GRP moulding.


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## WoodCritter (Feb 23, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> best one yet...


+1 - It is amazing to realize just how much more there is to learn!


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## [email protected] (Oct 23, 2014)

*Router bit speed*

I am a beginner, when it comes to routers, that was a great tip, not only from a safety point of view but it helps to know what your doing and why. Again thanks for the tip.:dirol:


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