# Radial Drill Press Jig



## Glen L (Nov 24, 2010)

Hello All: 

Just thought I would share this with you.

I made the table top from 2 X 24"X12" 3/4" MDF panels that I glued together. The fence is measured at 24" X 3" X 1.5" that can slide up to 11" forward, I also add 3/4 utility tracks for clamps and stops and whatever else I want to add on at a later date.
The paper measuring tape's I got from Ikea, hey!! it's free and it came in handy for this jig If you have any questions or comments their always welcomed
Here's the pics.

Cheers
Glen


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Hi Glen,

that looks stunning. It also looks like other jigs I have seen so I'm guessing they work well. Have you thought about a replaceable insert to minimise tear out in the future?. As you use the jig obviously you will drill into the base and make holes. To minimise tear out you may even move the jig about on your existing table so there is no hole under the drill path. With a removable insert you just change it out when it becomes to full of holes.

I have re written this a couple of times and don't mean to be telling you suck eggs:no:, and if I haven't explained myself very well please ask.

Cheers Si


----------



## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

I always end up with holes all over my drill press tabels so I just have a piece of 3/4 mdf attached to the metal table, no tracks or clamps.


----------



## Glen L (Nov 24, 2010)

chickenslippers said:


> Hi Glen,
> 
> that looks stunning. It also looks like other jigs I have seen so I'm guessing they work well. Have you thought about a replaceable insert to minimise tear out in the future?. As you use the jig obviously you will drill into the base and make holes. To minimise tear out you may even move the jig about on your existing table so there is no hole under the drill path. With a removable insert you just change it out when it becomes to full of holes.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the complements on the jig.

I set this jig up mainly for drilling holes in stiles for installing cabinet hinges, requiring no through holes, but I'm in the process of making some round 2" 0 clearance inserts
from 3/4 MDF when I need them.

The advantage of having a radial drill press is the table and drill head can articulate in all directions to position to drill where you want it, in this case right on the tables center. here's some photos that illustrate that.

Cheers
Glen


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Hi Glen ,

that looks like a seriously nice piece of kit.

Cheers,Si


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Glen L said:


> The advantage of having a radial drill press is the table and drill head can articulate in all directions...


Hi Glenn:

The only thing I can add is to be able to move the head up and down, rather than the table. On my old drill press I put a hydraulic lift under the bench top drill press column. The table top is 2'x4' and the head moves up and down relative to the table. I now have the radial that you have but I haven't been able to restore the column lift. Planned for down the road but I'm not sure how far.


----------



## Glen L (Nov 24, 2010)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Glenn:
> 
> The only thing I can add is to be able to move the head up and down, rather than the table. On my old drill press I put a hydraulic lift under the bench top drill press column. The table top is 2'x4' and the head moves up and down relative to the table. I now have the radial that you have but I haven't been able to restore the column lift. Planned for down the road but I'm not sure how far.


Yes it would be nice to lift the head with a push of a button, lifting the table at best is pain in the butt


----------



## ethylplant (Feb 19, 2011)

Man, that is just what I needed to see.
Very nice work.
I have a very old PowrKraft radial drill press, and I am getting ready to tear it down, clean it up, and make a new table for it. Your ideas are just what I need. 

Thanks,
James


----------



## Glen L (Nov 24, 2010)

chickenslippers said:


> Hi Glen,
> 
> that looks stunning. It also looks like other jigs I have seen so I'm guessing they work well. Have you thought about a replaceable insert to minimise tear out in the future?. As you use the jig obviously you will drill into the base and make holes. To minimise tear out you may even move the jig about on your existing table so there is no hole under the drill path. With a removable insert you just change it out when it becomes to full of holes.
> 
> ...


Hi Si

This jig is mainly for drilling 35mm holes in stiles for Euro hinges and 5mm pin holes for shelving, requiring no through holes, most of the work I do is cabinetry and trim. For installing pulls and handles I use my template and cordless drill. 

I have update the jig with a 3" removable plug to accommodate a sanding drum that I could have used many of times for sanding curves I cut with a jigsaw. here's some 
pics

Cheers
Glen


----------



## Glen L (Nov 24, 2010)

Thanks James

Are making you're own table or buying one?

Cheers
Glen


----------



## archer33 (Apr 25, 2010)

*Lee Valley Drum Sander Accessory*

Lee Valley makes an inexpensive bearing/cup that supports the bottom of a sanding drum and prevents deflection which can damage the drill press over the long term. A wise investment if you do a lot of drum sanding on your press. Also keeps a perfect 90 degrees on the piece being sanded. Check for it in the drum sanding section of their website.


----------



## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Zowies Glen, those pictures caused a spike in my 'tool envy' levels! Thanks for sharing them. 




Glen L said:


> Thanks for the complements on the jig.
> 
> The advantage of having a radial drill press is the table and drill head can articulate in all directions to position to drill where you want it, in this case right on the tables center. here's some photos that illustrate that.
> 
> ...


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Glen L said:


> Yes it would be nice to lift the head with a push of a button, lifting the table at best is pain in the butt


Raising or lowering by any means inevitably results in loss of registration. This can be a real pain if you need to change bits from, say a drill bit, to a counterbore of some sort.

Far and away the simplest solution is to keep three or four pieces of thickish MDF roughly the size of the table handy. By adding or subtracting them you get quick height variation with no loss of registration. You use the preceding bit to keep the registration before clamping the workpiece, then changing the bit.

Cheers

Peter


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

istracpsboss said:


> Raising or lowering by any means inevitably results in loss of registration. This can be a real pain if you need to change bits from, say a drill bit, to a counterbore of some sort.
> 
> Far and away the simplest solution is to keep three or four pieces of thickish MDF roughly the size of the table handy. By adding or subtracting them you get quick height variation with no loss of registration. You use the preceding bit to keep the registration before clamping the workpiece, then changing the bit.
> 
> ...


Hi Peter:

How right you are. My radial drill press is a real pain. Just moving the head causes the registration to go out of whack. To compensate, I found a "Tilt Box" (description in the LeeValley catalogue) and I reset the registration every time I move the head. However, with my most recent incarnation of the "telescoping column" drill press the column registration doesn't go off that badly. I've only measured 0.1 degrees occasionally.

What I have found is that I rarely raise or lower the column. When I do, I need to, but it seems to be rare. What I found most handy is that the height of the table is at the height of the rest of my modules. That gives me support on long and/or large pieces.

I'm going to try to go to the shop today and if I get there, I'll try to take a few pictures. We're in the midst of winterizing and in a mad scramble. We've snow forecast for the 31st and I still have the chimney to sweep, the curtains to put up, the trailer to stow, the skids to move, the snow tires to change, the outdoor furniture to store... Whew - just thinking about it makes me tired!


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Here's some pictures of the refit for the radial arm drill press. In essence it is a bottle jack pushing on a lever that moves a block up and down some guides that moves the head up and down. Once I've got the height adjusted I tighten down the bolts underneath to keep the registration "set." If my column goes out of square I've built in about 1/8" adjustment at the black block bolted to the table. Made of scraps and a garage sale special bottle jack. Only problem is winter here is dry so the whole assembly tightens up in fall and expands in spring.

I don't find myself adjusting the height very often. But it's handy when I do. In order to keep the table top in reasonable condition, I'm always using a scrap under the bit. Notice the fence. This is the same low and long fence that I use on the router table. I can set exact positions for the work piece and repeat it as needed.


----------



## Giff (Dec 21, 2010)

*Drill table*



Glen L said:


> Hello All:
> 
> Just thought I would share this with you.
> 
> ...


Hi Glen
I like your table and you have inspired me to upgrade mine. A couple of questions. Where are your hold downs from..I have a similar drill but mine is from Axminster..do you have any problems with the control handle (s) touching the fence when the radial head is at the back ? Thanks Geoff


----------

