# Plastic laminate



## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Is there a trick to applying plastic laminate. I used the explosive Weldwood type glue because I heard that is good. I put it on both surfaces and waited until it was dry to the touch. 

I used a J roller and rolled it a lot. 

A month or two later, part of the laminate came up, making me unhappy.

Maybe I should have applied the two surfaces when the adhesive was a little wetter?

Thanks

Steve Bolton


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Steve, laminate should be dry to touch when you put them together. Might not have got enough glue on them. 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Steve, as Corey has stated, dry to the touch is the norm. I'm not familiar with you're particular adhesive but assume that it is a "normal" contact adhesive. Clean, dry dust-free surfaces are of course essential using a liberal amount of adhesive well spread. I personally use the gel type contact adhesive, it lasts longer in the can and is far less messy to handle. Using dowels to centre the laminate and removing them one at a time as you press the laminate down makes for an accurate fit without air bubbles.


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Harry, do you have a brand mae for the gel type? I don't think I am familar with them.

Any suggestions as to the best contact cement? Oil based? Water based?

thank

sb


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

S Bolton said:


> Harry, do you have a brand mae for the gel type? I don't think I am familar with them.
> 
> Any suggestions as to the best contact cement? Oil based? Water based?
> 
> ...


This is what I use here in Australia, it's solvent based, I once tried water based contact adhesive and it was a dismal failure, no wonder they stopped making it!


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Steve, another thing that might hinder contact cement is temperature. If you were working with the temp. under a certain point the cement will not adhere correctly. I'm not sure what it is, but it should say on the can directions.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Steve

Next time give this a trick a try,,sand the Plastic laminate with 60 grit sand paper,,,(besure to blow off the dust b/4 you put on the glue or use a tack rag) because it's plastic it's sealed in a way, by sanding the laminate it will give it a place to hold on too. (cross hatch sanding works best or in a circle )

I just about always use 3M #77 or #90 ,it's in a spray can and is easy to put down...no roller/brush needed just a J-roller once the parts are in place,plus I don't wait till it's tacky ,this gives me time to move the stock around and line it up.


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Will do. Makes sense. How warm does it have to be in my shop? I use the explosive stuff because I hear it is better? True?

SB


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

Many years ago I installed a good deal of plastic laminate using contact cement. What worked best for me was to apply the adhesive to both surfaces,allow to dry and then apply a second coat. Never had any problems after doing it that way,several before.

Regards

Jerry


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

After you apply the second coat, how long do you wait?

sb


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## Fourleftpaws (Feb 12, 2007)

> explosive Weldwood


 I keep seeing this in the post, is this the type of contact cement that ignite really easy? Years ago I sold homes for a lumber company that built custom home, after having three of the custom home burn down because of the contact cement catching fire - due to the contractor applying it, we stopped using of any type of ignitable products. All the contractors using contact cement had to go to water base, some complained and some did not, but we had no more fires. Plus water base does not cause eye, nose, skin and throat irritation. I am surprised they still make the ignitable type. But as stated above I watch all the methods of applying contact cement, the stick method, waxed coated wrapping paper, and cardboard. Each contractor had his own way. They all made sure the dust was not a factor and would not apply the contact cement below 40 degree. Sanding is a great idea to make the adhesive ad hear to the wood better.


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

This stuff stinks and I think it will ignite. Local cabinet makers swear by it.

Interested in how to to let the second coat dry?

SB


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## RookieGuy (Mar 5, 2008)

SB - same stuff I've used for many projects. And the second coat is important, why it is I don't understand, but w/o it I never had that brand work for crap. It should be in BOLD print right on that can. If you rolled on the first coat - IMHO that won't work on #2. It kinda wanted to "ball" up and would roll around. A light brushed on coat does the trick.

Second coat dries up just like the first one did - but make darn sure the temp is above 60 too. That's what they told me once when I called to vent after so many failures.

You asked the time --- suppose that depends on temp. I do mine in a heated shop about 20' from a Reznor heater that just lighty blows across surface and carries a lot of that stink out a window on other side. Bet it still takes 20-25 minutes even then, maybe bit longer. Make sure that the first coat is seriously dry before you do this - I think on the can it says it is a means to reactivate the stuff IIRC. For me it seems they both took about the same amount of time.

Good luck - and maybe do what I have done and change out the brand after you use up what you have. I don't think it a good idea to use a different brand for coat #2 as might cause problems (?). I don't think another brand is any better than this one if you do 2 coats but my opinion is it takes 2x the time and cement too so I don't see any advantage.


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