# Glass Stop Molding



## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Still working on my back door, the latest problem is the stop molding around the glass that was butchered by the stripper. I need to replace the molding - it's way too bad to try to Bondo - and I can't find this molding, or any other, stocked locally. 

I found a YouTube video from This Old House How to Repair Door Glass | Video | This Old House and the stop in the video is exactly what I'm looking for so I'm sure it's not an odd ball - maybe out of date though (my house is almost 50 years old). There's a local cabinet shop that makes molding, they don't stock this but said they could make "anything", sight unseen - $87 for 20'.

Looking at the molding, I could cut the top bevel on the TS and put the relief on the bottom on the router table, but I can't figure out a way to get the bead on the corner. I have one of these radius planes Woodstock W1100 Slickplane - Hand Planes - Amazon.com which seems like my best option, at least for the top radius but not sure I could get at the bottom corner, just break that edge with a block plane and sandpaper maybe. Or maybe this is my excuse to buy the cornering tools that were discussed a little while ago Veritas® Cornering Tool Set - Lee Valley Tools - but now we're getting close to the cost of having the molding made (or doesn't the cost of new tools factor into the equation?). Or maybe just round off the top corner and leave the bottom corner square with just a break edge? 

Appreciate any suggestions.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Mr. Tom, I have always thought if I am "eyeing an interesting tool", need was one of the best excuses I could ever come-up with to buy it!
But in all honesty, this is only valid if the tool is something I will utilize repetitively in the future; otherwise it's just a wall-hanger.

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

OPG3 said:


> Mr. Tom, I have always thought if I am "eyeing an interesting tool", need was one of the best excuses I could ever come-up with to buy it!
> But in all honesty, this is only valid if the tool is something I will utilize repetitively in the future; otherwise it's just a wall-hanger.
> 
> Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


True. Over the years, I have used the SlickPlane (mine is stamped "RadiusPlane" - also came with a set of blades to machine a small chamfer - so a different manufacturer) a lot, it comes in handy when you just need a nice edge break and don't want/need to break out the trimmer and put in a round-over bit. Buying the nice shiny new tool is probably satisfying on some level, but I'd probably just use one or the other down the road. I looked at the molding a little closer and am thinking that I could set the TS blade at 45° and cut a chamfer on the bottom corner of the bevel to get a uniform start and just round that over with a sanding block, leave the bottom corner square unless the Radius plane will fit on that small of a part.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Tom; there's nothing sacred about glass stop shapes...there's a ton of variations out there. Doesn't anybody make new wood windows in your area?
Here's some simpler stops...
Wood Stops - Wooden Window


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> Tom; there's nothing sacred about glass stop shapes...there's a ton of variations out there. Doesn't anybody make new wood windows in your area?
> Here's some simpler stops...
> Wood Stops - Wooden Window


So far I have just checked lumber yards and the one molding manufacturer that's fairly close to me. The one place I used to deal with closed up, but there are a couple more millwork companies that I could check although the one I've dealt with would probably only be interested in selling me a new door. The one yard has a molding like the Victorian stop except 7/8" wide, but I think that the top bevel is a good thing as it will help the water drain off. It's 95° outside right now, so it's probably a good time to quit and call a couple more places to see what I can find. Thanks for the input.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

I have the Simpson Door Mill 3 blocks away... (>Link to what I'm referring to<). I don't buy things when I can make them, but I often _look_ at furniture, cabinet, and millwork catalogs to get ideas (especially on designs).

Also have quite a few circa 1900 joinery manuals that show how things are constructed, and designed. Even though I did that for a living, sometimes you just need fresh ideas.

I make my own. I just whip out what I need on a router table, either matching what was there or using a profile that I think will look nice or compliment the rest of the piece.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

rip a piece of door stop or casing molding to width... 

Door Stop | Tilo Industries


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Another excellent suggestion from The Stick!
They may even have some damaged pieces that they'll sell for el cheapo (not the edge you want obviously).


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Thanks Stick. I like the looks of the DS 126, cutting it down to 3/4" wide will probably remove most of the flat so water won't lay. I'll have to see if anybody carries that.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

I try...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> I try...


Yes. It's been mentioned. 'Stick's very trying'...


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> I try...


Well, you sure impressed my wife with your idea of fixing our door jamb, and she doesn't impress easily (or maybe it's just me?). When she was a teenager, her father built his own house from the ground up - starting by digging the hole for the basement - so she remembers that and is always looking over my shoulder when I'm doing something around the house. I don't know how many times I've heard, "Is that the way my father would do it?" And of course the only tools he had were a hammer, Skil saw, level and rafter square - takes a lot of selling to get approval for a new tool based on that memory.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Yes. It's been mentioned. 'Stick's very trying'...


He's been trying to out-fish his dog. 

Thank God, he has a head full of information!>>>


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Yes. It's been mentioned. 'Stick's very trying'...


what till you get to live scene 2 act 5...
and that's not all I'm good at..


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> He's been trying to out-fish his dog.


like that's gonna happen...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

tomp913 said:


> Well, you sure impressed my wife with your idea of fixing our door jamb, and she doesn't impress easily (or maybe it's just me?). When she was a teenager, her father built his own house from the ground up - starting by digging the hole for the basement - so she remembers that and is always looking over my shoulder when I'm doing something around the house. I don't know how many times I've heard, "Is that the way my father would do it?" And of course the only tools he had were a hammer, Skil saw, level and rafter square - takes a lot of selling to get approval for a new tool based on that memory.


yur welcome...
hope the stop molding idea works...
get her out the shop and have her ''roll her sleeves up''..


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

This bit would give you the rounded edge and lip and you could cut the rest on a table saw.

MLCS edge beading, fingernail router bits


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

mgmine said:


> This bit would give you the rounded edge and lip and you could cut the rest on a table saw.
> 
> MLCS edge beading, fingernail router bits


Thanks, I'd looked at that, but I don't think that you'd get a smooth transition. If you cut the bead first, the angle cut tangent to the curve would leave a line along the profile. If you cut the angle first, the beading cutter would have to be set up high so the upper corner just touches the angled surface and you'd get only a partial radius.

I found a piece of door step left from a previous project so am going to take a look at that, but I'm thinking that may be too thin - may have to go ahead and make something as close as I can get and live with it.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Well, back on this project. I had some door stop left over from the Laundry Room remodel, took a look at that and it's a little undersize, probably 1/8" thinner that the material on the other side of the glass - plus I didn't like the flat top, so I decided to go ahead and try to duplicate the existing molding as closely as possible. I have the 1/2" x 3/4" strips ripped, and will try to rip the top angle on them tomorrow - I measured the angle at 15° so nothing fancy. I'm pretty sure that I can duplicate the bottom edge by sticking an 1/8" round-over bit in the router table, set up to cut the little flat under the radius. Haven't decided what I'm going to do about the top corner at this point.


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