# how can i make deep exacting cuts at an angle?



## happyjourneygateway (Sep 14, 2012)

I am an experienced carpenter with mostly framing, formwork and interior cabinetry and molding installation experience, and little experience with woodwork. I want to build a laptop table for my treadmill that will have circular cutouts in 2x6 boards where it will set upon the grab bars. The horizontal straight bar running through the middle I only need to trace and cut a radius directly into the side of a 2x6 perhaps with a very long blade on a jigsaw. For the grab bars on the side I can set a bevel gauge against a level on top of it and get the degree of angle to trace onto the side of a board and that would show me the start an end points from a side angle of where the pipe would enter and exit but how to cut at that angle into it while cutting a rounded shape in an exact manner has me pretty stumped. I was thinking with a hugely long shaft bit extending out of a router table and a item made up with the exact angle to mount the piece i want to cut to i could feed it into the router and slowly winnow away at it until i get the rounded shape i'm desiring but i don't see anyone on any videos tackling this problem. what are typical ways this would be done? Should i just get my drill and a coping saw and gangster this up or what? I really want nice rounded router edges on the angled cuts as well after i finish. do i have to hand sand those in? or is there a way to router on a rounded angle with out digging in? sorry for my newbness. I'm trying to figure out what i need.


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Felix,
I'm not sure I fully understand what you are trying to do, but . . .
If I understand correctly at all, then I would use a Forstner bit or hole saw in a drill press to cut the holes for the grab bars. Once you know what the angle is, either tilt the drill press table or prop up one end of the workpiece to achieve the correct angle. After you have the hole drilled at an angle, you can use a roundover bit on a router to soften the edges a bit. However, your roundover will cut deeply on the "sharp" side of the hole and hardly at all on the "dull" side. 


.


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## mjadams61 (Dec 24, 2015)

maybe this will give you a ideal


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I am not quite clear on what you are after. If it is like what Marlin shows only a 2X6 laying flat across the hand rails with a half round groove cut in the bottom to accommodate the hand rails? Or is it a 2X6 on edge with holes on and angle to clamp to the hand rails?

Herb


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I'm not clear either on what you want the finished product to look like. I would agree with what Andy said. Another way would be to tilt the shoe on a jig saw and carefully cut the hole. Once cut, finish it off with a drum sander in a drill.


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## happyjourneygateway (Sep 14, 2012)

A jigsaw isn't going to work. The best idea seems to be a can hole cutter on a drill press which i don't own but think i'm going to get just so i can do this project. I don't have time to draw pictures and upload them today otherwise i would to show you what i'm talking about. Another idea i have from seeing some wordworking videos was building an angled sled at the exact angle i'm looking for. All these ideas take time which i'm short on right now.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

If I'm reading correctly, you want the top surface level, and the grooves at an angle. Is that because you want it removable? If removable, it will be remarkably easy to have it either creep down the inclined bar, or to flip off. So you might want to work out a way to hold it in place with screws. 2x6 seems pretty thick for a laptop stand. 

What about using a 1x or ply going across, and attach a couple of pieces on each edge with a cutout the size of the bar. Like trusses. The front truss would be a little wider than the back to account for the bar angle. You could use a Forstner bit to drill the opening in a wider piece, then rip it through the opening to get the two pieces. Trim them to the correct height to level the top. Glue them to the top. Or, you could use a jig saw to cut the openings.

If you want it to stay in place and not slip, cut the openings slightly larger than the diameter of the bar, then line them with Velcro. Place a Velcro strip or two at the top of the bar where the truss goes so when you press it down, it stays put. All your roundovers will be identical. You can also have more room for your laptop than a 2x6 will give you and it will be a little lighter.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Would this work for mounting the desk try?

Easy to do with a Forstner bit then split with a saw and screw together to clamp on the treadmill.


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## happyjourneygateway (Sep 14, 2012)

yes i would like it removable and i didn't want to drill any holes in the treadmill if i didn't have to. due to the fact that it is hung on the horizontal bar in front i doubt it would be flipping over. I only plan to slowly walk if not only just be standing on this treadmill and i don't think any jiggling or what not would capsize it. If the tolerance around the cuts are tight enough i don't suppose it should move at all. velcro is a good additional idea as initially i was thinking some soft foam like material inside of the cutouts would be good to hold it at a tight grip without marring the handholding bars finish. heres my elementaryish trace drawing. the dark black ring would be the exterior rounded edges of the tabletop


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Don't you know you shouldn't text and walk???? >

I'll offer another suggestion:

What if you created a platform with a ledge in the front to keep the laptop from sliding off, then attach the platform to a pair of large dowels that sat in your cup holders. The dowels would be mitered at such an angle that would tilt the platform forward, rather than laying flat horizontally. That would keep the treadmills controls from being covered up.


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## happyjourneygateway (Sep 14, 2012)

Too far to have to reach and I would have to worry about things falling off then. Plus where would i set my coffee cup? Those cup holders are non functional except for tiny disposable water bottles. My table top isn't going to cover up any of the controls, or the cup holders.


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## wbrisett (Feb 12, 2011)

When I built the one several years ago for my wife (I built two, one for home and one for her work), I took a much more simplistic approach. They have to be fully adjustable, so what I did was cut a two T-Track slots in the top of ½-in. plywood (sanded, stained, and sealed), spaced so they would run about in the middle of the board lengthwise. I Then I drilled two holes into the top of some 6-in. wide strips (you'll need four strips make them 18-24-in long). The holes are drilled one on each side of the strip, this is where I used epoxy to place ¼-in bolts that fit into the t-tracks on the top. I then routed a long strip into the 6-in. strips that additional bolts could freely slide into. I bought some turn knobs (four of these) and washers and bolts to fit the knobs and then it's just a matter of sliding on all four strips, placing the bar between two of the strips, then using pressure to tighten the strips against the bars. No need to worry about the curvature of the pipe, the foam on the pipe gives you all the grip you need against the wood. When you want to remove it, you simply loosen the knobs, remove the bottom knob and remove the platform. My initial prototype is at the house and the one the perfected is at my wife's work (which is much better and more adjustable).


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