# Scoring grid lines on birch plywood



## woodman44 (Jun 3, 2011)

This is my first post as a question. I am trying to make a game board using a 16" x 12" birch plywood. I need to score 1" grid squares that will cover the whole surface. The groves/scores ideally should be approximately 1/16" wide and 1/16" deep, creating 192 - 1" squares. I have a 1/16" straight router bit and a kerf style circular saw blade that is less than 1/8" wide.

I asked folks at Rockler and Home Depot and I got 2 completely different answers. One said that using a Router would be better and the other said that a table saw would be better. 

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated since this is my first project with my router and my first use of my table saw other that just cutting some lumber.

Thanks in advance,
Ken


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I think the thinnest table saw blade will be around 3/32". You might be able to find a 1/16" in 6 1/2 to 7 1/4" diameters though and they will work on a table saw.

Both answers you got are correct although the table saw method may leave a rougher edge. Depending on what the bottom of the groove is supposed to look like, you could use a 1/16" straight bit, a 1/16" veining bit, or a v-groove bit. With the TS or a router you will need a fence. So if you don't have a router table then you either need to buy or build one or plan on using the table saw. The table saw will be much easier to set because you can use the scale on it to measure the lines with.


----------



## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

*1/16" router bit*

I found a 1/16" router bit that has 1/4 shank. I plan to use this for making templates of Japanese Characters.


----------



## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

neiltsubota said:


> I found a 1/16" router bit that has 1/4 shank. I plan to use this for making templates of Japanese Characters.


With my router table I have an Incra Ultra, so I would for a v-groove or similar bit and use the Incra to step and repeat.


----------



## woodman44 (Jun 3, 2011)

Thanks chuck,

I am having a hard time visualizing using a fence on a router table to create the 16 vertical and 12 horizontal lines. Would you move the fence 1" after each grid line? Is so, I only have a distance of 10" from the bit to the fence on one end of my table and 12" from the bit to the fence on the other end, therefore by moving my fence from one side of the bit to the other I can then use a board that is less than 22" long, correct?

I think that the router bit would produce a cleaner grove than a saw blade as you have pointed out. For that reason I think I will opt for the router.

Does my description make sense to you? Do you have a better method?

Again, thanks for your input.


----------



## Roloff (Jan 30, 2009)

If you really need it to have such thin grooves, perhaps a machine is not the right answer. In your shoes, I'd try a rotary cutter, using a quilting template as the "fence" to get the lines exactly straight and square. You might consider it even if you want to finish the lines with a little router and 1/16" bit. Cutting the borders with a rotary cutter would lower the amount of chipping.


----------



## Ben I (May 21, 2010)

woodman44 said:


> This is my first post as a question. I am trying to make a game board using a 16" x 12" birch plywood. I need to score 1" grid squares that will cover the whole surface. The groves/scores ideally should be approximately 1/16" wide and 1/16" deep, creating 192 - 1" squares. I have a 1/16" straight router bit and a kerf style circular saw blade that is less than 1/8" wide.
> 
> I asked folks at Rockler and Home Depot and I got 2 completely different answers. One said that using a Router would be better and the other said that a table saw would be better.
> 
> ...



Ken

Both methods would work. 

I envisage using a low profile guide clamp and routing from the top with a trim router. However this would involve a number of moving the clamp and reclamping. This sounds very error prone.

If you chose to use a table saw, you can reset the rip fence quickly and easily with less chance of error. Because you can't see the cut you will not be able to stop the cuts exactly. Make your board oversized. After scoring, final cut the piece to size. Next add edge bands all around. 

Of course if your were using contrasting wood for your squares a entirely different approach would be advised.

Ben


----------



## woodman44 (Jun 3, 2011)

Ben,

I will use your suggestion with the following addition. I plan to mark the edge with 1" intervals so I can see where to line up the bit for each grooved line. Fortunately the final surface will be all one finish (no alternating colors).

Thanks and I will tru and report my results later this weekend.

Ken


----------



## L Town Graphics (May 24, 2012)

woodman44 said:


> This is my first post as a question. I am trying to make a game board using a 16" x 12" birch plywood. I need to score 1" grid squares that will cover the whole surface. The groves/scores ideally should be approximately 1/16" wide and 1/16" deep, creating 192 - 1" squares. I have a 1/16" straight router bit and a kerf style circular saw blade that is less than 1/8" wide.
> 
> I asked folks at Rockler and Home Depot and I got 2 completely different answers. One said that using a Router would be better and the other said that a table saw would be better.
> 
> ...


Ken, both methods will work, mark your lines and as someone previously stated your going to have to move the fence after cuts at that mark are done.


----------



## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

woodman44 said:


> Thanks chuck,
> 
> I am having a hard time visualizing using a fence on a router table to create the 16 vertical and 12 horizontal lines. Would you move the fence 1" after each grid line? Is so, I only have a distance of 10" from the bit to the fence on one end of my table and 12" from the bit to the fence on the other end, therefore by moving my fence from one side of the bit to the other I can then use a board that is less than 22" long, correct?
> 
> ...


Because your game board is 12" X 16", I see you only needing a router table about 8 inched wide from the cutter bit. You would be making four passes (one on each side) before resetting the fence.


----------



## woodman44 (Jun 3, 2011)

William,

Thanks for your astute observation. I was all set to move the each each and every pass, your idea will save a great amount of time and be more accurate.

All the Best,
Ken


----------



## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

If you could accurately cut some 1" thick spacers, you might be able to set the fence once and add (or subtract) a spacer after each pair of passes. I have some 1" x 2" extruded aluminum that is spot on accurate and would be perfect as they are tracked and could be easily fixed in place. 

edit: btw--still credit William with the idea, i just added to it.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Ken - I guess I will throw in with the table saw camp on this one. A 1/16" router bit is a pretty fragile thing. I believe I have a couple of circular saw blades with a 1/16" kerf that will fit on a table saw and easily make a scoring cut. Table saw or router table, you would still be able to use williamm's suggextion of 4 passes per setup.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Reading through this thread made me think of a jig I made recently to rout dados for some shelves.

I am sure you can find it on You Tube. I think Ron Fox has a detailed video series of how tomake the jig. It is two pieces of mdf with an end piece attached at 90 deg to clamp to your work piece/table. The router uses a template with the router bit inside of it. I made the two pieces the exact width of the template and used a 3/4 inch bit. The router slides across the top of the mdf while routing the board underneath.

With a small bit like you are planning to use, it would be easy to line up the bit for each pass. Make a pass, then re set it for the next pass. I think it would be doable.

Here is his video.
Woodworking jigs for the router -- Part 1 -- Introduction - YouTube

Good luck with your project.
Mike


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

greenacres2 said:


> If you could accurately cut some 1" thick spacers, you might be able to set the fence once and add (or subtract) a spacer after each pair of passes. I have some 1" x 2" extruded aluminum that is spot on accurate and would be perfect as they are tracked and could be easily fixed in place.
> 
> edit: btw--still credit William with the idea, i just added to it.


After thinking more about it I was going to suggest this too. Could be done with the TS or router table. If you used the router table I would set the bit and fence dead center on the piece and then add a 1" shim after every pass. Actually the shims would have to be less than 1" or the space would be 1" and then you would have a 1/16" line. After 8 passes this would equal 8 1/2" total.
Another issue is that most of the really small bits I have have a tendency to burn the wood. You should try yours on some scrap of the same species first unless a black groove is okay then this is not a problem. If it is then you're back to the TS again.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

MT Stringer said:


> Reading through this thread made me think of a jig I made recently to rout dados for some shelves.
> 
> I am sure you can find it on You Tube. I think Ron Fox has a detailed video series of how tomake the jig. It is two pieces of mdf with an end piece attached at 90 deg to clamp to your work piece/table. The router uses a template with the router bit inside of it. I made the two pieces the exact width of the template and used a 3/4 inch bit. The router slides across the top of the mdf while routing the board underneath.
> 
> ...


I agree, Mike.

I have made his 'housing' jig, but did not think of the smaller jig.

This is the way I would do it.

You have to download/watch all 8 videos to get the final picture, but worth the time.

Even BJ's dado jig would work, but Ron's jig works of the centre line.


----------



## woodman44 (Jun 3, 2011)

Hey Guys, thanks for all of your suggestions. I have learned alot. This forum is awesome and I hope that I can contribute in the future.

Semper Fi,

Ken


----------

