# router tables / shop remodeling



## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

Every 5 years or so I redo my shop. Since Christmas I have been doing just that. I had a couple double router tables, several singles and a triple for holding 3-routers. I make all my tables. I disassembled all the tables except one single. I made 3-platforms that allow me to mount two routers per platform. When the router isn't needed I can unbolt it from the platform and put it on the shelf. When removing the router the fence, power strip and dust ports stays with the router. That way it takes only a few seconds to swap out a router without changing of the bit or fence. Someone said I have a router fetish but I run a production shop and don't want to waste time setting the router up. All router table platforms are on casters. That way I can roll the routes beside the workbench to speed up production. Instead of completely disassembling the triple router table, which was 5' long, I removed the top portion and added drawers on to the top. It is now a storage cabinet that is 5' long and 5' high with 21 drawers. I hope this information is a help to folks trying to set up their shop. Malcolm / Kentucky USA


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Thanks for sharing that, Malcolm.


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## walkerrosewood (Jan 23, 2014)

Looks good. With the casters on the router tables... do they move when you don't want them to? i.e. when you are routing a workpiece? How do you combat this; locking casters, weight of table, wheel chocks?


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## twallace (Jan 15, 2012)

Malcolm,
I love it. Someday I will do that. When I have to make doors, it is frustrating to have to change bits rail and stile and I believe things will move faster with two router set up and maybe three if you have to do a pattern on the door edge. someday someday I will get there. What size routers do you use?
thanks for sharing.
tom


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## Potowner1 (Feb 17, 2011)

Good morning Malcom,
Great pictures, thanks for sharing. Speaking of sharing, in the first photo of the 3 router table there are height adjusters clearly visible, could you please tell me where you purchased them, they would be a good answer to my situation.

I have a home built router table that I'm very happy with, except the height adjustment. I assembled the table before I bought my Kreg router plate and there is not a lot of room to accommodate the corners adjusters. I can barely turn the set screw when adjustment is needed, and this may be a good solution. Thanks in advance.

BE WELL

Rick


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## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

I have numerous routers in my shop. Most are 12 to 15 amps - which I think folks call them 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 hp. I have Freud, Hitachi, Bosch, Triton, and a Ryobi. They all do an good job - I am sorta partial to the Triton, but I can't complain about the others. I seldom change the bit in many of them. I have three routers set up for doing dovetails, three set up for doing finger joints, one for doing round-over, one for cutting the bottom grove for box bottoms and the others I change the bits as needed. I tell folks that I throw away the wrench after I put a bit in, but I don't really. Many of the bits have been in for years. I generally get Freud or Whiteside bits, but I have a few others that I don't have to use often.


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## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

The router table with drawer I noticed that with the weight that it would move when I didn't want it to. I replaced the caster with lockable one. Works great! The others seem to be just fine without lockable casters. Malcolm / Kentucky USA


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## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

For router plate levelers, I use one of two ways. I either purchase them from WOODHAVEN or I make my own. To make them I take two scrap pieces of lumber about 1 wide and a couple inches longer than the hole in the table. I drill three 3/8" diameter holes along it. I put threaded inserts into the holes. I then run a 3/8" bolt through the inserts with a nut and lock washer about and below the board. I screw these pieces of wood to the bottom of the router table with the bolt heads up so the router plate rest on them. Once I get the correct height I tighten the nuts. This is a lot of work but it does the job & I never have to change it if I don't have the store bought ones. Malcolm / Kentucky USA


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

*Very nice!*

Malcolm, I am very impressed with your ingenuity! Your candor and photographs are also very nice and well-presented. Looking beyond the router tables, I can see that you also have some very high quality lumber in your shop. On a much smaller scale, I do something remotely similar in that I use 3- identical routers - each setup differently. Once I am cutting wood, there is no need to stop and make adjustments. Since I mostly build prototypes of new inventions, my work doesn't have to be nice-looking, but rather it must fit perfectly!

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## 64 ford (Apr 21, 2013)

Malcolm
I had a friend who died that had a theory that you need a router for every bit you have. He had a lot of bits!!
Dennis


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## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

Hi Malcolm. Now I know why they call you the Router Man and how you get things built so fast. Very clever dust port in the last picture.


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## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

Dennis, I hadn't heard that one about having a router for each bit. I probably have 120 or so bits and only a dozen or so routers. When I started woodworking in 1980 a fellow sold me a used set of Sears Chrome edge router bits. Sears sold the 40-piece set for around $55.00. I have a custom made bit that I paid a couple hundred dollars for it. A lot of these bits I may use for one project and then it goes back to the drawer. Some I have probably never used. I started with a 1 hp Sears router that one took 1/4" bits now most of my routers are plunge type that take 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" bits. Since most of my work is with cherry, maple (tiger & spaltic), walnut, and rosewood I like to get the job done and get out. So I get quality bits. Malcolm / Kentucky USA


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