# Sketchup Help - Tablesaw Outfeed (T-Track) Table



## nsecrist (Jan 13, 2015)

Hi - I am currently learning Sketchup - looking at all the great youtube videos and other tutorials that are out there on the web.

My current outfeed table is the standard Delta outfeed table that I bought about 15 years ago when I bought a Unisaw. It has started to sag and is very dinged up, so I want to build a new outfeed table.

I like the concept of the new Rockler T-Track table, so I would like to embed a T-track system on my outfeed table behind the saw. 
I have attached a picture of the Rockler T-Track Table - for those that haven't seen one. 
My table will be larger - about 48x65, with a T-Track Grid to allow me to clamp anywhere on the grid using the 5 or 6 existing Kreg clamps that I currently have. This will make things very flexible for clamping most anything.

*MY SKETCHUP DRAWING
*You can see that I have added 2 dados for the miter gauge tracks so that the tablesaw sled can move freely past the end of the saw.

I was able to place the 7 dados for the T-tracks that run the length (65") of the outfeed table and color them Rockler Blue.

You can see I have added Sketchup Guides for the T-tracks that run the width (48") of the table.

*Now - here is my Sketchup issue. *
When I tried to draw the rectangles and use the Push/Pull tool to create the 3/4" dados for the T-Track along the 48" direction, Sketchup wouldn't seem to allow me to make these dados "intersect" with the dados I had already drawn for the 65" direction. You can see I was able to create 6 short dados that intersect the 1st T-Track, but Sketchup seems to want to make me create all these short dados in the grid. 

Seems like there should be a way to draw a grid of T-Tracks like I am envisioning?

Remember, that I am an *EXTREME* novice in Sketchup - this is my first real drawing, so if you reply, please be specific since I am a newbie.

Any help would be greatly appreciated - I am probably missing some little detail that would allow me to complete these T-track grids.

Sketchup gurus - feel free to look at my Sketchup drawing - maybe it would be easier for you to look at my drawing in your Sketchup and see what I might have done that would be causing this issue.

I have attached a .jpg of the Sketchup Drawing
I also attached the .zip file of the .skp file, since .skp is not an allowed file format.

Thanks Alot

Nate


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I don't think I can be of much help, Nate. I ran into the same problem. The push/pull tool stops at the intersection each time. Actually, I was doing the same thing today. Trying to lay out a design for a new top for my work bench/outfeed table/assy bench.

One thing I am worried about is boards coming off your saw and hanging up on any cross tracks. That would be especially true if the board was bowed down. I always try to make sure I rip them with any bow facing up, but you never know.

Here are a few pics of my current table with the Kreg Klamp Tracks. They work great.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Yeah, when you drew the rectangles, they intersected with the other dados you drew and that cut your rectangle into a series of rectangles (and squares). You can go and push/pull each one.

There are a lot ways to do what you wanted but no really simple ones. You have to deal with those pesky intersections. One cute way is to draw one square and then use move/copy to make a row of them each separated by your dado width, then select the row and move/copy the row (to get a dado size separation again) to make a grid of squares. clean up the edges and then your dados can all be push/pulled at once.

Before you go and do all that work though, you might want to consider doing an MFT-like table like MT did. I'm about to embark on that. Love the idea of qwas dogs and such.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Here's how I do it, Nate. I draw the grooves/dados for the T-Track on the face of the table top. Then I erase the excess lines where they cross. Now I can simply select the area of the grooves/dados and use the push/pull tool to sink all of them into the face at one time. These images should help you see what I mean.

Another shortcut is to draw a long groove once and then use the move tool to copy and move it to the next location.


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## nsecrist (Jan 13, 2015)

*Thanks Oliver for the Tip!*



Gaffboat said:


> Here's how I do it, Nate. I draw the grooves/dados for the T-Track on the face of the table top. Then I erase the excess lines where they cross. Now I can simply select the area of the grooves/dados and use the push/pull tool to sink all of them into the face at one time. These images should help you see what I mean.
> 
> Another shortcut is to draw a long groove once and then use the move tool to copy and move it to the next location.



Oliver - what you have shown looks like it will be the easiest overall.
Thank you for the illustration! That really helps.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I played with your drawing for a bit.
I made a couple of changes. I measured a piece of t track and it is 3/8 inch deep, so I changed all dadoes to 3/8 inch x 3/4. I left the miter gauge dadoes as is.

I like rounded corners so I replaced your edge trim with new stuff and rounded the corners. 

And I cut clamp access in the trim so the clamps can be moved from one track to another.

As you learn, learn to make layers to help you work on the model. That way you can use Entity Info to assign parts of your drawing to various layers. Then you can turn em on or off. Helps to get in tight places when something is in the way.

And then there is my mobile workstation. This thing is the cat's meow. All sorts of clamping possibilities with dog holes and slots for f style clamps. :dance3:

And you can see I put it to work before I had purchased the Formica for the top. Check out them rounded corners! :yes4:


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

I'd echo Mike's concerns about the tracks running across the outfeed direction being a potential problem. Looks like you're tracks are about 6" apart--so stock would never be more than 3" from a track--and always in reach of a clamp. I could see the cross tracks being handy at times for assembly--but not enough to risk catching the outfeed stock from my table saw on. Your mileage may vary.
earl


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Just by coincidence, I was drawing a new table for my work bench today. Nothing definite yet, but a possibility. Overall size is 31 1/2 inches x 49 1/2 inches.

I might have to build this during this coming year.
Mike


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

Mike, if you made it deeper, and used individual blocks to support the top you could add a dust extraction port and have a downdraft sanding table.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

greenacres2 said:


> I'd echo Mike's concerns about the tracks running across the outfeed direction being a potential problem. Looks like you're tracks are about 6" apart--so stock would never be more than 3" from a track--and always in reach of a clamp. I could see the cross tracks being handy at times for assembly--but not enough to risk catching the outfeed stock from my table saw on. Your mileage may vary.
> earl


I would have the out feed top lower than the saw table and have a panel to cover the t-track top with cutouts for the miter bar extension.


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

Oliver.........great solution and illustrations, as always. I put that in my "sketchup tips" folder.

Mike........I like the idea of the slots in your workstation for F-clamps. My son gave me a really sturdily built work table that has a 1 1/4" top, and I had planned to do some bench dog holes. Now I'll add those slots, too, to make it more versatile. Thanks for the idea. Jim


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

greenacres2 said:


> I'd echo Mike's concerns about the tracks running across the outfeed direction being a potential problem. Looks like you're tracks are about 6" apart--so stock would never be more than 3" from a track--and always in reach of a clamp. I could see the cross tracks being handy at times for assembly--but not enough to risk catching the outfeed stock from my table saw on. Your mileage may vary.
> earl


Since you're making a complete new top, how about the idea of adding a layer of 1/8" tempered hardboard - make it in two pieces; the piece up to the ends of the sled dadoes permanently attached and the piece on top of the t-track removable for when you're using the clamps. I have the same outfeed table on my Unisaw, been on there so long that I don't remember if the attachment point is adjustable - although with the size of top that you're planning, it may be as well to have separate legs under the top so that the extra thickness isn't a problem.

Tom


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## 64 ford (Apr 21, 2013)

I envy you guys who are able to catch on to. New things and make them work. Maybe I don't have the ambition, want or need but I have a problem wrapping my mind around new technology (my VCR still flashed 12:00 when I quit using it). On the other hand, as a job supt. I was able to build schools,banks etc. from very detailed plans and spec books.
I had trouble in industrial arts getting my thoughts on paper. Now days I just make a chicken scratch drawing on paper and I visualize everything that I need to do. Very old school but it works for me. Again, I envy you guys!
Dennis


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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

MT. Stringer: thanks for the pictures of your robust and well thought out mobile cart. Your design provided me with some ideas. 

64Ford: I know what you mean. I am at the point where I am more often than not happy to let time and technology pass me by.


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## PeterA1947 (Jun 16, 2014)

*Routermaster use*

G'day, my name is Peter, I have a Routermaster (radial arm with router attached), I do not use it a lot but would appreciate any advice.
I certainly would appreciate advice on how to make kangaroos that hop down a sloping surface.


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## RMIGHTY1 (Nov 5, 2014)

Hi Peter, welcome to the forum.

I do not have a radial saw but someone may be along to help you shortly. You have a better chance of attracting help if you start your own thread. 

See link below:

Beginners Guide to RouterForums.com

Good to see you here Peter!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

PeterA1947 said:


> G'day, my name is Peter, I have a Routermaster (radial arm with router attached), I do not use it a lot but would appreciate any advice.
> I certainly would appreciate advice on how to make kangaroos that hop down a sloping surface.


Hi Peter, welcome to the forum.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Peter.


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## tattiebogal (Aug 28, 2013)

Hi fellow wood beasty, as I read your post I wonder if your familiar with the follow me tool available on SU? This allow you to draw the profile of a dado on the edge of your object then push it all the way through on the length surface, drawing the housing both with sides and a bottom! ...hope this helps☺


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