# oak park box joint jig



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

can anyone who has this jig tell me approximately how thick it is? just looking at the podcast it looks to be close to 1/2 inch thick, but that is only a guess.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Levon

How's this

1/4" = .502
3/8" = .500
1/2" = .499

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levon said:


> can anyone who has this jig tell me approximately how thick it is? just looking at the podcast it looks to be close to 1/2 inch thick, but that is only a guess.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Levon



> How's this
> 
> 1/4" = .502
> 3/8" = .500
> 1/2" = .499


So I guess 1/2" is approximately correct.......  

Leading on from this, what size are the bolt holes in the OP table? I have drilled 5/16" holes in mine and there does not seem to be enough play to use the "fine adjusting tool".

James


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

*oak park jig*



bobj3 said:


> Hi Levon
> 
> How's this
> 
> ...


now thats what i call a very accurate answer. i was thinking half inch looking at the video. but sometimes its difficult to tell. thanks BobJ


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

The holes in my table(s) are 1/4" but the holes in the jigs are 5/16" that works just fine for me .. 

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jw2170 said:


> Hi Levon
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Bob,

re:


> The holes in my table(s) are 1/4" but the holes in the jigs are 5/16" that works just fine for me ..


I will check mine again tomorrow. When I drilled the holes using the spacer fence as a template, the 1/4" drill bit was very tight in the fence holes.

Maybe I will need to drill these out to 5/16"

James


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

The holes in the spacer need to be slightly larger than the bolts. This allows you to fine tune how you want the fingers to fit. A loose or tight fit.

BTW, I believe OP has them, (spacer fence), on sale at the moment.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI James

Here's a snapshot or two of my Oak-Park box joint jigs, you will see I have 4 holes in each (5/16" ) , one in each corner ,plus two holes for the bit, I use them on many router tables... 


http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--

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jw2170 said:


> Bob,
> 
> re:
> 
> ...


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I just bit the bullet and purchased some oak park stuff. I sold a bunch of unused tools and used the money to get:

BB0730
> Brass Bars and Holder 

> BRT30001
> Basic Router Table w/Vacu-Plate

> EGP30323
> Extended Guide Set 

GP058
> Guide and Pattern System 

> PB072
> Pattern Bolts

IS0262
Brass Insert/Locking Nut Set 


What else should be on the list? I guess the box joint jig is a popular item. Is it worth getting since I have an Incra setup?

Nick


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hamlin, BJ

I have the 3 fences already. Thanks to a member, as OP do not sell to any place outside the US or Canada.

Postage/freight is expensive, otherwise I would purchase the OP table..

Thanks for the photos, BJ. Now I will have to drill out the spacers to allow for adjustment.

I will probably be using the 3/8" fence for the upcoming router course...

James.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Nick



> What else should be on the list


I think you are off to a great start as it is, however I would be looking at the Mitre Gauge.......(but then, it's not my money )

James


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I am trying to envision how I would use that in my work. DO you have it?

If you do have you used it for many projects?

Nick


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Nick,

I do not have it at the moment..but it would be on my short list if I lived in the US...

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Nick,

PS


> I am trying to envision how I would use that in my work


I think that is the right answer, if you don't think you will use it, then there is no point in buying it.

It does depend very much on the projects you intend to complete.

James


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I watched the demonstration for the miter and some other stuff.

I think OP should have a super kit that just included everything they sell all in one package. If I really took a hard look at the miter and the dovetail setup I probably would have purchased yesterday before the specials were over.

Well I have a few more tools I never use that I am selling so I know where the money will go. If I ever sell a tool I always use that money for some other tool that will make me more productive.

Nick


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## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

Okay you guys, I looked at the OP jig and even watched the video. But you see, I have a Rockler Router table that I like and naturally there are no holes in it to accomodate the OP jig. I hate to start butchering up my nice white router table. I am going to study the Incra Universal some more, but it may be overkill for my simple purposes. I agree with you guys, the OP is certainly simple. I can recall several years back watching the boys use it on some projects.
As usual you gents have provide guidance of inestimable sagacity and value.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Birch,

I believe either Glenmore or Challagan has a thread about mounting the OP spacer fences to a non OP table. I can't find it at the moment.

Here's the link: http://www.routerforums.com/project...park-table.html?highlight=Mounting+Park+Table


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Birch

You don't need to butcher your router table, you can mount it without driling any holes in your top. 

Just mount it to some 1/4" thick MDF and then just clamp the MDF to the table top 

But if don't want to mess with the clamps and all you can get a MLCS Box jig that only takes a guide in the router table plate..

From
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...rthtml/pages/dovetailjig.html#boxjoint_anchor


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Birch said:


> Okay you guys, I looked at the OP jig and even watched the video. But you see, I have a Rockler Router table that I like and naturally there are no holes in it to accomodate the OP jig. I hate to start butchering up my nice white router table. I am going to study the Incra Universal some more, but it may be overkill for my simple purposes. I agree with you guys, the OP is certainly simple. I can recall several years back watching the boys use it on some projects.
> As usual you gents have provide guidance of inestimable sagacity and value.


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

I am not in my shop, but I don't recall that there are two holes for the router bit. Did you drill the second ones in? Why?

SB


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Steve

You're right they only come with one hole but I use the jig on many tables,the one I like to use it on the most is the CMT one that has a track on the front edge on the table top ,so it order to use it on that table the hole had to be drilled out. 

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S Bolton said:


> I am not in my shop, but I don't recall that there are two holes for the router bit. Did you drill the second ones in? Why?
> 
> SB


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

HI Birch, SB

I agree with Bj, you don't have to drill any holes if you don't want too. You can clamp it to a larger piece and clamp that to your table. You also don't need to buy the spacer fences. They really aren't that difficult to create yourself. I made one out of MDF for 3/4". It's in my gallery if you wish to take a look.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

*Stop block?*



bobj3 said:


> Hi Steve
> 
> You're right they only come with one hole but I use the jig on many tables,the one I like to use it on the most is the CMT one that has a track on the front edge on the table top ,so it order to use it on that table the hole had to be drilled out.
> 
> =====


Hi Bob,

Re:your pics accompanying this post

Thanks for posting these. My "sled" is similar,tho not as elegant.

I understand everything except the stop block.  Why is it needed?

thanks,
Gene


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Gene

stop block = it's not a must have item but we all get in a rush most of the time on the last board and do push a bit to hard/far and ever time you do that the slot gets a be deeper in the jig,,,and bit has more wear and tear on the bit ,,, like I said it's not a must have item just a way to save the bit and to dress up the jig a little bit with one more knob   LOL LOL 

Plus you can you use it for putting in Blind slots , if you have not done that try it without a stop block,,,it's a fun joint to make , very much like a blind dovetail joint without the angles... 



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Gene Howe said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> Re:your pics accompanying this post
> 
> ...


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Thanks Bob.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Gene,

I had made a copy of Bj's push block. With the stop block in place. Completely adjustable btw. It's an added feature that works wonders. I've always like to just get the material past the bit, to where the bit itself is just inside the jig/push block. No reason to go deeper. As Bj said, just wear an tear on the bit(s) and the jig.


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