# Use of Push Blocks & Push Sticks



## KennK (Mar 7, 2012)

While I am new to table routing, I have a fair amount of experience with table sawing. I've used a push stick with a table saw. I've also used a square piece of plywood literally to push a larger board. 

That leads me to wonder how many of you use - or recommend - use of push blocks (I've never used the friction pad style blocks) or push sticks when using a table router. Should they be used all the time? Or for just certain cases?

Thanks, Ken


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

Every the time you can, if the bit comes free it's coming out on the top side on the board, it's best to use the hook type push block so you hold the stock down and push it forward at the same time and you will not get rip out on the end of the board the norm, the pad type are OK but at some point in the pass you must lift it off and reset it and it's free to take off like a rocket..

The right push blocks are a big deal on the router table..

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KennK said:


> While I am new to table routing, I have a fair amount of experience with table sawing. I've used a push stick with a table saw. I've also used a square piece of plywood literally to push a larger board.
> 
> That leads me to wonder how many of you use - or recommend - use of push blocks (I've never used the friction pad style blocks) or push sticks when using a table router. Should they be used all the time? Or for just certain cases?
> 
> Thanks, Ken


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Anytime you are working with small or narrow parts they are a good idea. When I'm using the other hand to keep pressure towards the fence I put a thumb against the piece on one side of the bit and a finger on the other side and let the piece slide past them. I never push directly across from the bit. Featherboards are good too but if you are careful you can get away without them most of the time.


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello!

+1 with bob!

IMHO:
Never put your fingers where they can get catch !

Pushing right to left in front of the bit with left hand at left of bit can put 
your left hand into the bit if a quickback occurs...

Too dangerous!, I use push hooks for small pieces, and feather boards as much as possible.
I use feather boards in both horizontal and vertical direction when possible.

On table saw I use two push sticks(1'),one for pushing, one for keepin' straight on the guide.

Regards


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Amen to that; had my close call and_ not_ interested in a repeat performance...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Can't have to many push blocks  not all below just some of them.

Here's neat jig for small parts
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/409/small-parts-sled.pdf


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Always use push blocks, push sticks, and feather boards when ever possible.

The small parts jig Bob posted the link to is just one of many that can be used when the part is definitely too small to be routed while being held in your fingers. Don't ever use the *it's just one cut* reason for not using a jig like this! *Just one cut* may just leave you with just one finger!

Bottom line, keep you fingers as far from the blade as possible!

Work safe, Have fun, Cut some wood,
Mike


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## KennK (Mar 7, 2012)

Thanks for the awesome advice!! 

I just ordered a "Tool Designs 10230 Power Hands Push Stick" from Amazon. I like that it comes with two grippy bottom pads - one flat and one v-shaped. I hope the grip opening is big enough for my hand. 

My new Bosch RA1181 router table came with two featherboards (figuring one vertical and one horizontal). I decided that I'd be better off with two on the fence (vertical) before & after the bit, and one on the table (horizontal), so I ordered parts for a third one. 

Thanks again,

Ken


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

push blocks are especially required when you say "It's just one cut"


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## Bill7255 (Dec 23, 2012)

Well I don't have as many as Bobj3, but I have a few. I do the same thing and use the old ones for handles screwed down to a block of wood. The very best ones I have are the Rockler (Bench Dog) and the Gripper. The cheap ones are just good for handles on blocks of wood.


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## alteridiom (Jan 27, 2013)

I have push blocks but had never heard of a push stick. Looks like I need to pick one up. Learning something already.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

alteridiom said:


> I have push blocks but had never heard of a push stick. Looks like I need to pick one up. Learning something already.


Hi n/a (don't know your name....)

You don't need to buy push sticks. You can bandsaw or jigsaw them from scrap softwood baseboard, 3 x 1in planed softwood, etc - that way they are cheaper and you can regard them as sacrificial if needs be. I was trained to use push sticks on table saws and never to allow my fingers to get nearer that 12in from the blade (these days they train wood machinists that 16in is preferable) which means that all these fancy push block designs people recommend where the hand can end up only an inck or two away from the blade are just downright dangerous to my eye. Here is a simple design for a push stick:










As Gerard says above, use two push sticks for rip sawing - one to push, the other to guide. On the router table it's preferable to use a feather board as he says or a Shaw guard like this:










to hold the work in to the cutter (whilst at the same time guarding you from the cuttetr) or if attached to the vertical fence to apply downwards pressure. A single push stick is used to propel the materal for the last part of the cut

Regards

Phil


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

One of the best push sticks you can make.If I recall you can get a free plan on the forum.(under sticky notes)just by using a dovetail bit ..  it can used on the table saw or the router table or the band saw..
I should note I didn't use plan I just use a hand saw for the pattern and with a trim bit to cut the handle out,the base is easy with a dovetail bit.

If you use 1/2" stock for the handle that makes it easy for the dovetail key and you don't need to cut it out with a band saw/scroll the trim bit will do all the work for you.. 

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/6310-push-stick-handles.html

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## Mark55 (Sep 6, 2012)

I almost always use push sticks unless it's a real wide board and my fingers are not near the cutters. I also prefer to use feather boards horizontal and vertical because it keeps a constant pressure against the fence , table and cutter. 
When ever you use your hands you tend to pause for a second through the cut and that can leave a burn mark or possibly and uneven spot in the cut from released pressure. With the feather boards in place you can put your push stick on the end of your board , not worry about holding against the fence and keep a smooth non stopping run through your cut. This will usually leave a much better cut.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The Router Workshop push stick plan is free under our project plans section as a sticky thread. This push stick holds your material down to the table and against the fence; this is exactly what you want on a router table. All you need is some wood and a dovetail bit. Free and simple works for me.


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