# Router Skis



## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

I viewed a couple of the threads here on the value of using skis or outriggers to do free-hand routing. So I thought I'd give it a go. I purchased 3/8" (2 pcs 28" long) stock from a local hardware store. I put them on a couple of 2 x 4's and put the router on top and the deflection is 3/32". 

What's the best way to deal with deflection? Do I just move the skies in or???

Thanks for reading and taking time to make suggestions/comments. 

Stay warm!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Berry, maybe 3/8" stock ( I assume you mean threaded rod) is a little thin for the weight of the router over that distance. Is that the biggest size that will fit your router?

There have been some post where an acrylic base was used with larger diameter rod.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Berry

The 3/8" rod will work will but you may want upgrade to the Acme rod to 4140 steel B7 in that way you will have no sag..at all...

McMaster-Carr
====


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## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Berry, maybe 3/8" stock ( I assume you mean threaded rod) is a little thin for the weight of the router over that distance. Is that the biggest size that will fit your router?
> 
> There have been some post where an acrylic base was used with larger diameter rod.


It's a Bosch 1617EVS and 3/8" was this size of the rod on the fence that came with it. Standard threaded rod.


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## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Berry
> 
> The 3/8" rod will work will but you may want upgrade to the Acme rod to 4140 steel B7 in that way you will have no sag..at all...
> 
> ...


Can you recommend a supplier? 

I see Amazon has it - huh spendy! Maybe Jeff Bezos will send one of his drones to deliver two rods? :sarcastic:


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

!2mm OR 1/2" diameter rod is required for a 28" span. Bright mild steel is far better than threaded rod.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I knew I should have added a PS to my post, I have many skis jigs some are 5/16' ROD AND SOME 3/8" / 1/2" rods I don't need a tank of s jig for med.size router plus with rods that are threaded on the ends only you stuck with that unlike threaded rod that will let you move the load around.. 

===


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Hello everyone,
I have the same problem, the holes in the base of my router are only 8mm, so I thought to do (I have not yet done so) 2 bars 20mm x 25mm with 8mm holes to pass the bars out of the router base and 12mm holes for the rods of skis.


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## Pecos kid (Jan 15, 2014)

What a wealth of information. Picture are worth a thousand words. Thanks to Harrysin and Sante for your picture post! Thanks Ron!


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## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

Santé said:


> Hello everyone,
> I have the same problem, the holes in the base of my router are only 8mm, so I thought to do (I have not yet done so) 2 bars 20mm x 25mm with 8mm holes to pass the bars out of the router base and 12mm holes for the rods of skis.


That seems like a solid solution to me. Will you try it soon? I moved to a different project.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

berry said:


> That seems like a solid solution to me. Will you try it soon? I moved to a different project.


No, because of health problems my wife


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

harrysin said:


> !2mm OR 1/2" diameter rod is required for a 28" span. Bright mild steel is far better than threaded rod.


Why is this afirmation: "this is one accessory that EVERY routologist should have". Maybe this is a dumb question, but what are the uses of this jig?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

RÖENTGEEP said:


> Why is this afirmation: "this is one accessory that EVERY routologist should have". Maybe this is a dumb question, but what are the uses of this jig?


Here is a selection of shots taken from a few of my posted projects. Often the work-piece or template is too small for the router to remain stable, the skis solve this problem. There are many planing jobs that would be very difficult to perform without the skis. Best of all a great deal of mechanical advantage is obtained by using the skis and operating the assembly by the ski ends, it is particularly beneficial when freehand routing, especially signs. Like many specialized tools, the skis won't be used every day, but when they are used they really are appreciated.
The purpose of my many threads with photo-shoots and tutorials is to demonstrate that there are far more exciting ways to use a router other than hanging under a table.


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

harrysin said:


> Here is a selection of shots taken from a few of my posted projects. Often the work-piece or template is too small for the router to remain stable, the skis solve this problem. There are many planing jobs that would be very difficult to perform without the skis. Best of all a great deal of mechanical advantage is obtained by using the skis and operating the assembly by the ski ends, it is particularly beneficial when freehand routing, especially signs. Like many specialized tools, the skis won't be used every day, but when they are used they really are appreciated.
> The purpose of my many threads with photo-shoots and tutorials is to demonstrate that there are far more exciting ways to use a router other than hanging under a table.


Gotcha. Thank you sir. You are the man. reps sent.


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