# I am scared of my Rigid Trim Router.



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

I am not happy with my Rigid trim router because it seems to be out of control. It jumps and tears up my pieces. I don’t know if it’s just me or if it’s the small base or what, but I’m afraid to use it. I know I’m going in the right direction and I even double checked it by looking in the manual. 

I have an old Craftsman ¼” that’s got to be at least 40 years old and I have never had a problem with it at all. I bought a ½” craftsman about 10 years ago and had problems with the depth moving around. and someone gave me a Black& Decker ¼” plastic router many years ago which really was nice until it fell off my workbench and busted the base. I still use it when I don’t want to change bits and its handy.

I now have a new Porter Cable 890 router which I haven’t used yet, but I really wanted this Trim router because it was small and could fit into small spaces. I just have so much trouble with it that it’s like I forgot everything after 40 years of routing. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying I was EVER a router pro, I’m just saying that I have had experience and my whole world is falling apart with this little trim router is kicking my butt.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Pickup the base plate below it will help,it adds a bit more mass to the bottom of the router and a way to hang on to it and control it plus it keeps your fingers out of the hole in the base.

Amazon.com: Woodhaven 8330 Ridgid R2400 & 2401 Bushing Plate: Home Improvement

Router Forums - View Single Post - Bosch Colt Palm Router is Unsafe

http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/22786-bosch-colt-palm-router-unsafe.html

==



JohnnyB60 said:


> I am not happy with my Rigid trim router because it seems to be out of control. It jumps and tears up my pieces. I don’t know if it’s just me or if it’s the small base or what, but I’m afraid to use it. I know I’m going in the right direction and I even double checked it by looking in the manual.
> 
> I have an old Craftsman ¼” that’s got to be at least 40 years old and I have never had a problem with it at all. I bought a ½” craftsman about 10 years ago and had problems with the depth moving around. and someone gave me a Black& Decker ¼” plastic router many years ago which really was nice until it fell off my workbench and busted the base. I still use it when I don’t want to change bits and its handy.
> 
> I now have a new Porter Cable 890 router which I haven’t used yet, but I really wanted this Trim router because it was small and could fit into small spaces. I just have so much trouble with it that it’s like I forgot everything after 40 years of routing. Now don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying I was EVER a router pro, I’m just saying that I have had experience and my whole world is falling apart with this little trim router is kicking my butt.


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Don't know if you can return it but if you are uncomfortable with the thing don't use it. 

There may actually be something wrong with the unit and I believe Ridgid has a lifetime warranty so check it out.. see if you can get reimbursed for the purchase price and put it toward other options. Look at the Colt with variable speed.

No tool is worth the effort if it is "out of control" when you use it.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi John
> 
> Pickup the base plate below it will help
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob for the link


TomE said:


> Don't know if you can return it but if you are uncomfortable with the thing don't use it.
> 
> There may actually be something wrong with the unit and I believe Ridgid has a lifetime warranty so check it out.. see if you can get reimbursed for the purchase price and put it toward other options. Look at the Colt with variable speed.
> 
> No tool is worth the effort if it is "out of control" when you use it.


I bought this at Home Depot last year and thought it might be just the bit or something, I don't think they will take it back now. When I first was looking for a small trim router, there where some here that recommended the Colt, but the Rigid was cheaper so I bought it instead. 

I can't tell if its the router or me and i don't know what to say is wrong. I might try making a video of it and try to see if i can identify what the problem is. It starts out OK then all of a sudden it jumps and gouging the wood.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

TomE said:


> There may actually be something wrong with the unit and I believe Ridgid has a lifetime warranty so check it out..


You got me thinking about defects and while I was looking at it trying to see something, it occurred to me that it could be electrical. I wonder what would happen if the electrical dropped for just a second from a bad connection and start up again. Would that cause it to jump?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Johnny, this is a stability problem, not a defect. In the same way a larger router can tip and gouge your work piece the smaller palm routers with even less of a foot print multiply the odds of this happening. Using a larger base plate like BJ suggested is the way to go; it will tame the beast.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

JohnnyB60 said:


> You got me thinking about defects and while I was looking at it trying to see something, it occurred to me that it could be electrical. I wonder what would happen if the electrical dropped for just a second from a bad connection and start up again. Would that cause it to jump?


I don't know about the power itself dropping out that would cause it but that does have a speed feedback control that may be malfunctioning. Speaking of speed, what speed are you running it at? The speed range on that is listed at 20-30,000 rpm which, to me is a bit fast. My Colt has a range of 15 -35,000 and I usually run it down around 18-20. IMO, 30,000 is way to fast for hand held work, more into CNC stuff where you can get a consistently high feed rate.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

jschaben said:


> I don't know about the power itself dropping out that would cause it but that does have a speed feedback control that may be malfunctioning. Speaking of speed, what speed are you running it at? The speed range on that is listed at 20-30,000 rpm which, to me is a bit fast. My Colt has a range of 15 -35,000 and I usually run it down around 18-20. IMO, 30,000 is way to fast for hand held work, more into CNC stuff where you can get a consistently high feed rate.


Oops Speed! I don’t know.  I’ll have to check. Is it adjustable? 

I was looking for my thread when I 1st bought this router and discovered that I had asked about this problem before and forgot all about it. http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/22329-what-kinds-jobs-would-you-use-trim-router.html


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Ok, well I’m embarrassed. I didn’t realize that it had a variable speed dial. It’s on 1 whatever that is.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Hi Johnny,

If you are not cutting does the router try to jump around? 
Are you using the proper bit and not trying to over feed the bit?
Have you checked the router with a different bit? The bit may be out of balance or have a bent shaft. It doesn't take much to cause a lot of vibration.
Make sure you are not bottoming the bit out in the collet and that the collet and shaft are clean. 
It might just be the router, not assembled properly or missing/defective parts during manufacturing.

Mike


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Hi Johnny,

I was typing while you were posting,

The rpms where probably too slow!

Good luck hope more speed helps,
Mike


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Agreed, if the speed is too slow then results could be erratic, especially when compared to the other routers running at better speed.

If that is the case then all might be well with the machine and adding a larger sub base plate will help.... I've got three plates for the Colt and use the larger round most times.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

MEBCWD said:


> Hi Johnny,
> 
> If you are not cutting does the router try to jump around?
> Are you using the proper bit and not trying to over feed the bit?
> ...


_
If you are not cutting does the router try to jump around? _
As far as I know only when I turn it on when it nearly jumps right out of my hand. I just tried and I’m not sure but it sounds weird like it might be varying speed. My hearing is going bad and I can’t here high pitched sounds so I’ll have to let someone else listen to it.
_
Are you using the proper bit and not trying to over feed the bit? _
Not sure! Now that I just found out about the speed adjustment, I’ve been reading about that and I guess I still need to determine that.
_
Have you checked the router with a different bit?_ I have tried a new trim bit with a roller bearing. My very 1st use was trying to cut a ¾” dado 3/8” deep, it was awful and completely destroyed my piece. I never tried that again. Actually that was when I decided to buy my Porter Cable 890.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

TomE said:


> Agreed, if the speed is too slow then results could be erratic, especially when compared to the other routers running at better speed.
> 
> If that is the case then all might be well with the machine and adding a larger sub base plate will help.... I've got three plates for the Colt and use the larger round most times.


Thanks, I guess I'll try increasing the speed and ordering the large base


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

I have 4 Ridgid Trim Routers, 3 of which I use with my PC dovetail jig and the other for general hand held use, mostly template inlay work. I have never had a problem with any of them as far as control and they run at nearly full throttle most of the time. They do have a lot of torque so it is best to hold on tight or start at a low RPM and ease the dial up to the desired speed before engaging the bit into whatever you are cutting, then enter it slowly. As a beginning woodworker that was my biggest problem, taking too big a bite too quickly. Doing that resulted in the problem you seem to be having and have broken a couple of bits and burned a 1/4 inch bit so bad it will no longer cut. 

If you are adamant about returning your router and you did buy it at Home Depot they will take it back in a heartbeat. If you think there is a malfunction in the router and you registered it online with Ridgid there is a lifetime warranty that actually works, but only if you registered it online.

I have said it before and I will say it again, if my Ridgid Trim Routers were the last ones on earth I wouldn't take a thousand dollars for any one of them.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Ok I turned the speed all the way up and it’s much better. Its lot more noisy but smoother. Then I looked at all my other routers and the speed is turned up to max on all of them. 

So I guess I need to learn more about speed, because after all these years, I’ve never paid any attention to speed. Maybe this why I've never really liked routers and I've always looked for other alternatives so I would not need to use them.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

JohnnyB60 said:


> _
> If you are not cutting does the router try to jump around? _
> As far as I know only when I turn it on when it nearly jumps right out of my hand. I just tried and I’m not sure but it sounds weird like it might be varying speed. My hearing is going bad and I can’t here high pitched sounds so I’ll have to let someone else listen to it.
> _
> ...


A 3/4 by 3/8 dado in 1 pass is a bit much for any trim router. Try making it in several shallower passes!


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

JohnnyB60 said:


> _
> If you are not cutting does the router try to jump around? _
> As far as I know only when I turn it on when it nearly jumps right out of my hand. I just tried and I’m not sure but it sounds weird like it might be varying speed. My hearing is going bad and I can’t here high pitched sounds so I’ll have to let someone else listen to it.
> _
> ...


That Router is supposed to have soft start so I wouldn't expect it to be "jumping out of your hand".

3/4 wide by 3/8 deep dado would be a plenty big cut for a 8900 much less a trim router.. Just what kind of bearing bit were you using by the way?


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

jschaben said:


> That Router is supposed to have soft start so I wouldn't expect it to be "jumping out of your hand".
> 
> 3/4 wide by 3/8 deep dado would be a plenty big cut for a 8900 much less a trim router.. Just what kind of bearing bit were you using by the way?


I’m not sure what brand it is only that it is blue and I just bought it from Lowes, but it is a ½”x½” straight flute with bottom roller bearing. As I was looking at it I also noticed some nicks in the blade. I don’t know how that happened because I took it straight out of the package and put it into the collet. There were no screws, nails or knots in the piece, so the nicks had to be there from the manufacture.

I just made a 3/8” x ¾” rabbit cut using an old ½” straight flute bit. I made the cut in two passes at speed # 5 and it worked pretty good, but I started it up off the wood and slowly dropping it in. It was actually the 1st time that I felt comfortable with this router and I may try a long dado later. 

I suddenly got busy and haven’t had a chance to search for a speed chart, but I need to learn more about how to select or determine the speed setting.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

JohnnyB60 said:


> I’m not sure what brand it is only that it is blue and I just bought it from Lowes, but it is a ½”x½” straight flute with bottom roller bearing. As I was looking at it I also noticed some nicks in the blade. I don’t know how that happened because I took it straight out of the package and put it into the collet. There were no screws, nails or knots in the piece, so the nicks had to be there from the manufacture.
> 
> I just made a 3/8” x ¾” rabbit cut using an old ½” straight flute bit. I made the cut in two passes at speed # 5 and it worked pretty good, but I started it up off the wood and slowly dropping it in. It was actually the 1st time that I felt comfortable with this router and I may try a long dado later.
> 
> I suddenly got busy and haven’t had a chance to search for a speed chart, but I need to learn more about how to select or determine the speed setting.


If you bought the bit at Lowe's and it is blue it is probably a Bosch. That is the brand the local Lowe's sells. I don't know what their return policy is on router bits but it may be worth a try to return it. 

Here is a nice speed chart.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> If you bought the bit at Lowe's and it is blue it is probably a Bosch. That is the brand the local Lowe's sells. I don't know what their return policy is on router bits but it may be worth a try to return it.
> 
> Here is a nice speed chart.


Hey thanks Ken for the speed chart, I’m going to print it out and put it on router table.

As far as the router bit goes I’m going to try and take it back. I just wish I still had the package. I have some other plumbing stuff that I bought for my dust collection that also needs to go back anyway, so this will be good.


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## zarpman (Oct 30, 2011)

John, Sorry to hear about your router however sometimes the tool is manufactured wrong. Years ago Mywife bought me a band saw (not a good one but inexpensive) and it ran in the opposite direction and the blade went up instead of down. I bought it back to the store and they said I was crazy. My Dad at the time (electrical Eng.) said it was probably wired wrong. Called the company and about six weeks later I had a new one.Sometimes it is better and safer to replace tools if you feel something is not right.zarpman Melbourne, Fl.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Hey thanks Ken for the speed chart, I’m going to print it out and put it on router table.
> 
> As far as the router bit goes I’m going to try and take it back. I just wish I still had the package. I have some other plumbing stuff that I bought for my dust collection that also needs to go back anyway, so this will be good.


You're very welcome. 

Good luck with the return and keep playing around with the router until you feel comfortable with it.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Well increasing speed definitely makes a huge difference. 

I’m now sure that there’s something wrong with the switch or motor. I don’t know if the motor has brushes that are bad or maybe the speed feedback control is defective as John Schaben mentioned, but there is a miss. I plugged it into different plugs thinking it may be the plug and nothing changed. It is not very noticeable at high speed and probably will work good for years, but I’m worried that whatever it is may get worse, so I’m going to try to exchange it.

I wonder if there is a burn in time for routers. I haven’t used it hardly at all and maybe I just need to run it awhile.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Johnny

It sounds like the router is not in error they sound that way, the feed back is trying to adjust the motor speed/load speed but if it makes you happy return it.  with luck they will/may do it for you 
NO burn in time for routers
But they have a but out time,don't run it longer than 5 mins without a cool down time.

==



JohnnyB60 said:


> Well increasing speed definitely makes a huge difference.
> 
> I’m now sure that there’s something wrong with the switch or motor. I don’t know if the motor has brushes that are bad or maybe the speed feedback control is defective as John Schaben mentioned, but there is a miss. I plugged it into different plugs thinking it may be the plug and nothing changed. It is not very noticeable at high speed and probably will work good for years, but I’m worried that whatever it is may get worse, so I’m going to try to exchange it.
> 
> I wonder if there is a burn in time for routers. I haven’t used it hardly at all and maybe I just need to run it awhile.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Well increasing speed definitely makes a huge difference.
> 
> I’m now sure that there’s something wrong with the switch or motor. I don’t know if the motor has brushes that are bad or maybe the speed feedback control is defective as John Schaben mentioned, but there is a miss. I plugged it into different plugs thinking it may be the plug and nothing changed. It is not very noticeable at high speed and probably will work good for years, but I’m worried that whatever it is may get worse, so I’m going to try to exchange it.
> 
> I wonder if there is a burn in time for routers. I haven’t used it hardly at all and maybe I just need to run it awhile.



Hi Johnny....What precisely is your problem with the router? If you are basing your "something is wrong" opinion on the sound, Don;t! The Ridgid Trim Router is a powerful little router and like any other tool or machine that has adjustable speeds the pitch changes from a hum to a whine as the RPM's are increased. Case in point, when I first fired up my PC 892 in the router table I thought the shaft was out of round because it sounded like it had a serious vibration. I installed a short stainless steel rod in the chuck and set my Dial Indicator up to check for vibration. I went from the lowest RPM setting to wide open and it ran true from one inch above the collet to 4 inches above the collet. The sound also changed as I increased the speed as noted above. What I garnered from that test is that my imagination is out of round rather than the router shaft.  

If you are basing your opinion on the way the router cuts, try with a piece of hardwood scrap, the same bit you said chipped the wood at different RPM's and cutting depth. If it still chips the wood, try with a different bit at the same RPM and depth setting because it may be a faulty bit rather than a faulty router. 

Don't get me wrong, there may be a malfunction in the router and if you want to exchange it by all means do so. If you do exchange it and the new router does the same thing, well I won't go there.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Thanks Ken and Bob for the advice. 

Well after thinking about it, I am hesitant to send it in, because I only have the sound to base my feelings on. It does seem to be working ok now and I do feel better now that it’s not jumping or grabbing. It’s probably ok like you say and I am probably just imagining it at this point. 

Anyway I found a 6x10x¼” piece of Plexiglas in my junk pile so I bought some longer screws last night and I’m going to try to make a longer base and do some heavy cutting to check it out farther. 

This router is different than my other routers because of its height and small foot print, where as my other routers are kind of short and stubby in comparison. I might have tilted it the 1st time I used it and once it scared me, I didn't trust it any more.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Thanks Ken and Bob for the advice.
> 
> Well after thinking about it, I am hesitant to send it in, because I only have the sound to base my feelings on. It does seem to be working ok now and I do feel better now that it’s not jumping or grabbing. It’s probably ok like you say and I am probably just imagining it at this point.
> 
> ...


Johnny....The original base plate on the Ridgid Trim Router is 3.5 x 3.5 inches. I made new plates for all 4 of mine that are 6 inches long and 4.5 wide with a slight taper and knobs made with golf balls on each end. The plates are all drilled to accept PC style guide bushings for use with my PC Dovetail Jig and inlays. The 6 inch length gives me enough room to install the golf ball knobs on each end and clear the router body with the ability to use it much the same as a full size router with handles. The one I use for inlays and other routing tasks I also made a plate that doubles for edge routing and circle cutting that is 12 inches long and tapers from 3.5 at the router base to a 1 inch rounded end fitted with a golf ball handle and also drilled to accept guide bushings. In fact all 8 of the routers I own that didn't come with initially now have both oversize round and square base plates drilled to accept guide bushings.

I think you are right in making a new, larger base plate to see if that helps. If in fact you did tilt the router when making a cut it would cause the bit to dig in so to speak. That would create unruly handling as well as chipping the wood to a certain degree. If the bit caught hard enough it could possibly jerk the router out of your hand or at the very least give you a definite scare from the unexpected jerk.

Like I said try it with different speeds and depth settings. Take your time and in time you will eventually find a comfort zone both you and the router can live with.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> Johnny....The original base plate on the Ridgid Trim Router is 3.5 x 3.5 inches. I made new plates for all 4 of mine that are 6 inches long and 4.5 wide with a slight taper and knobs made with golf balls on each end. The plates are all drilled to accept PC style guide bushings for use with my PC Dovetail Jig and inlays. The 6 inch length gives me enough room to install the golf ball knobs on each end and clear the router body with the ability to use it much the same as a full size router with handles. The one I use for inlays and other routing tasks I also made a plate that doubles for edge routing and circle cutting that is 12 inches long and tapers from 3.5 at the router base to a 1 inch rounded end fitted with a golf ball handle and also drilled to accept guide bushings. In fact all 8 of the routers I own that didn't come with initially now have both oversize round and square base plates drilled to accept guide bushings.
> 
> I think you are right in making a new, larger base plate to see if that helps. If in fact you did tilt the router when making a cut it would cause the bit to dig in so to speak. That would create unruly handling as well as chipping the wood to a certain degree. If the bit caught hard enough it could possibly jerk the router out of your hand or at the very least give you a definite scare from the unexpected jerk.
> 
> Like I said try it with different speeds and depth settings. Take your time and in time you will eventually find a comfort zone both you and the router can live with.


Thanks Ken!

I’m glad you mentioned this because I was just wondering what size to make it and it never occurred to me to adapt it for guide bushings which is a fantastic idea. I bought guide bushings years ago for my craftsman router, but they never fit. I’ll have to find them now so that I can finally use them.

My dad was a finish carpenter back when everything had to be done on the job site. He had a lot different guides for doors and other things that I inherited when he passed away, but I could not find his bushings. I’ve been buying pre-hung doors and haven’t really needed them, but it would be nice to at least be able to use them. :dance3:


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