# Your thoughts on choice of a store-bought router table?



## azw (Dec 4, 2007)

I'm going to buy a router table but don't know anyone who has a decent one, so I'm hoping someone here has some experience with these routers. (I'm not interested in building one. My time and space are both limited.)

I recently returned a Ryobi A25RT02 router table. It has a lot of great features but I wasn't able to level the plastic table insert and the table top seemed slightly unflat.

I'm considering:
-- Bosch RA1181 ($168 at Amazon)
-- Bench Dog 40-001 ($209 at Amazon)
-- Rockler Portable Router Table ($190 from Rockler)

The first two from Amazon have free shipping. All look like solid choices and the first two have received a fair number of positive reviews. I'd need to buy additional accessories to complete the Bench Dog and Rockler, which is a disadvantage. I guess that means I'm leaning toward the Bosch. 

If you've got another model to suggest, I'm all ears as long it's cost is about the same.

I'd be open to buying one used, but I've not seen anything available locally. And because buying one on eBay would rack up big shipping costs, it may make more sense to buy a new one with free shipping.


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## ballpienhammer (Dec 4, 2007)

Me too, I saw that one at Home Depot and was considering it. Now not.


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## Will S (Nov 20, 2007)

I don't have any experience with it, but when researching them, I seem to remember that the Bosch RA1171 had a different, and better table (& plate) than the 1181. Might be worth a look.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

I've had good luck with the oak-park.com basic router table top. I've taken their top and built my own cabinet, and it works great. It's worth a look, in my humble opinion.

It may not be quite as large as some of the other commercially available tables, but it has not been a problem at all for the projects I've done. I also have a couple of their baseplates, for flexibility.

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=BYOT--&product=620


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

There are many choices and I will post photos of several popular types. You do not need the whistles and bells that seem so impressive on many of them. What you need is a table that is flat and will stay that way; an easily adjustable and removeable fence; the ability to use guide bushings; and enough space to use jigs and templates. Dust collection is also essential, and it is nice to be able to store the bits and guide bushings in the table. Quality should be top notch. There are only two tables that fill all these requirements and they are the Router Workshop table with the Vac-u-plate from Oak Park, and the RT1000. Bench Dog makes many fine tables as does Rockler. The rest of the tables on the market fall short in different ways. Mind you a router can be mounted to any table and will be better than trying to freehand everything. There is a wealth of information on all these tables in the forums so I am not going into other details in this post. The New Yankee Workshop table is a design from Fine Woodworking Magazine and is virtually identical to the RT1000.


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## ballpienhammer (Dec 4, 2007)

Top center pic and second row extreme left look good to me because of the height and lack of need for an additional table stand. Do you know who mfgs them?


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## azw (Dec 4, 2007)

Top center image appears to be a Bosch ($349 at Amazon).
Interestingly, Rousseau has something very similar for $309 at Amazon, although the accessories are different.


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## azw (Dec 4, 2007)

Thanks for the help, everyone.

How does clamping the Oak Park fence compare with other ways of adjusting a fence? It seems like it might be hard to do work that is more vertical than horizontal.

Who makes the RT-1000? I'm seeing several different things with that model number online.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

azw,

Oak park uses the KISS method (keep it simple, stupid). Two clamps (c-clamps, F-clamps, your choice) and that's it. I use a piece of machined aluminum angle, others use polyethylene, some use a jointed piece of hardboard, others a built up right angle fence. It doesn't really matter, as long as it is straight and 90 degrees. 

The best part about the system is that you're not worried about T-track slots, and you can quickly move the fence to any spot on the table you need it.

Only one time have I had the fence slip while making a cut, and I think I deserve 87.56% of the blame on that one.


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## azw (Dec 4, 2007)

The Super Bench from Router Table Depot (on sale now for $166) is tempting. It has a stand, but can be used as a bench top, too. It's gotten pretty good reviews.

All I'd need to make it complete, I think, is a set of featherboards and possibly a miter gauge. Of course, they come with the Bosch RA1181, but the RTD Super Bench seems a little more serious, although I don't know if it really is any better.


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## azw (Dec 4, 2007)

Thanks, Doug. Seeing your photo of your router table helped. I like all that storage. I see that you mounted your top differently than I would have guessed. Unfortunately, it's a little large for the space I have available.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi azw

"Who makes the RT-1000?"

He is also a member of the forum


http://www.routerforums.com/members/rt1000-10753.html
http://www.rt1000.com/

He also sells them on eBay
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=rt1000&category0=

====================



azw said:


> Thanks for the help, everyone.
> 
> How does clamping the Oak Park fence compare with other ways of adjusting a fence? It seems like it might be hard to do work that is more vertical than horizontal.
> 
> Who makes the RT-1000? I'm seeing several different things with that model number online.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The photos are labeled by name, in this case the Bosch RA1200 and the Wolfcraft respectively. Height is really not an issue. The stands that go under the low profile tables provide storage for your router and bits


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## azw (Dec 4, 2007)

Lowe' s is selling the Freud RTP-1000 Ultimate Portable Router Table at a discounted price of $169 (was $199). The tools manager at my store even offered to sell it to me at half that price. I think they're doing inventory, so they want to get rid of it before they finalize the numbers. I tested the table to see how well it would support a heavy router. When I put a little weight on just the table top and again just on the insert, both deflected. The fence might be nice but there are too many negatives to that table, even at just $84!

They have also reduced the price on Bosch RA1171 cabinet style router table from $169.99 to $159.99. The manager told me they're going to continue carrying that table.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi azw

You may want to read the reviews on both tables..

http://www.amazon.com/review/produc...cm_cr_acr_txt?_encoding=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

http://www.amazon.com/review/produc...cm_cr_acr_txt?_encoding=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

===========


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## azw (Dec 4, 2007)

Yeah, the Freud is clearly a dud, which is too bad because it was a great concept. The top was no more than 1" thick, probably less. I almost bought it for the frame and fence, but even the fence boards were poor quality. They are very thin and the surface was so easily damaged that they were already flaking in the box. For the price they were asking, you'd expect a lot more quality.

I'm tending to the other Bosch, the RA1181 with a metal top which has gotten very good reviews. Its top is also a little larger than the one on the RA1171.


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## ballpienhammer (Dec 4, 2007)

Many thanks to all for the info. The rib is getting me a simple Craftsman model(don't know which)for Christmas. I will make do with it until I figger out how to use router properly without loss of fingers and toes. I will build raised table in Spring. Happy Holidays, all.


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## jjciesla (Oct 20, 2007)

Hi AZW,
If your space is limited as mine is portability is an issue. I ended up with a Veritas table (fron Lee Valley) with a Bosch 1619EVS. I made an under-table so I could place the whole router table on the bottom shelf so as to use the under-table as a work surface as needed. I did have to give up the storage area. The Veritas is a bit expensive bu I've been happy with it.
\\Gp6\cf (j)\DCIM\100NIKON\DSCN7756 resized.jpg
Jim


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## jjciesla (Oct 20, 2007)

This time with the picture


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## azw (Dec 4, 2007)

Hi, Jim, Sorry for the slow response. I didn't get an email about your reply.

I like that switch on your table. Am I right to assume you added it yourself? That's a great idea of how to make it dust-proof. 

The Veritas costs more than I can spend, but it does look very nice.


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

*Learning to Live With a Bosch RA1171*

Since the Bosch RA1171 has been mentioned, I should probably post here. i kinda got on a roll on a New Member post and realized this would be a better place. At store price, there are better values for the quality offered. On the used market, they can be a good starting point. Heck, the fence, plate, jointer shims, switch and the two feather boards can be worth the used price, even if you scrap the base and table top. Check the table top for flatness, as they have some quality control issues.

The door hinges are screwed into the edge of the poor quality MDF door too close to the edges(and not centered) and the screws are too close together for any strength. Split outs are common. The hinge screws that go into the cabinet side are too close to the edge, as well, but the screws mounting the hinge to the door edge will split out first, if that is any comfort. . A piano hinge would be way better, with many screws carrying any load or stress. Or, if you have blacksmith skills, weld a wrap-around strip on the door part of the Bosch hinge so you can screw into the back face of the door instead of the edge. That would strengthen the hinge mounting to the door, but would still leave you with the weak attachment to the cabinet side. A third hinge midway between the ones supplied would help take any stress. Even if reinforced by the strap, I would not use only two of the factory hinges. 
The magnetic catch for the door needs a little help, as well. A stop of some kind will help it live longer. Remember this is a portable table, and is often moved around the shop or in a vehicle with other stuff, so the door can get biffed. 

And the plate leveling system is a travesty. The adjustment inserts they use are actually pot-metal self-tapping wallboard sleeves, meant for picture hanging. As used in the table, they do not have sufficient thread engagement in the MDF, and will loosen with use and vibration, as the sharp edges work into the MDF, leaving you with an enlarged hole in crumbled MDF. They will also turn as you tighten the plate mounting screws, as a result of their inadequate thread engagement. 10-32 threads are a poor choice for pot-metal, as well. 10-24 would last longer.

If you want to use the pot-metal inserts, it is better to install them from beneath until the flange bottoms out. Be careful, as the pot metal is weak and the flange can break off from only a little too much torque. DAMHIK. Be sure the hex wrench has full engagement when tightening. If I had to do it over, I would replace the wallboard inserts with brass threaded inserts, just for the precision and durability. 

Then level the plate with washers and shim stock. Soak a little thin CA into the MDF around the holes to make it stronger and less liable to compression from the plate mounting screws. Your bottom shim should be triangular-shaped to take up the compression force from the plate mounting screws. Aircraft 3/16" washers come in several thicknesses if you look at aluminum and steel in the AN960-10 series, and the thick aluminum ones are easy to thin by rubbing them on a mill file. The shimming is a little time-consuming, but you only do it once and it stays solid, instead of changing as the sharp edges of the Bosch-supplied wallboard inserts chew up the MDF. Once the washers are selected and in place, I secure them with Goop so they stay positioned when the plate is removed. On final assembly, cock the plate in its loose-fitting hole so the edges of the plate and hole take the torque of heavy work instead of the screws and inserts. Be sure not to overtorque the screws. Remember this is very fine sawdust held together with Chinese glue.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

kp91 said:


> azw,
> 
> Oak park uses the KISS method (keep it simple, stupid). Two clamps (c-clamps, F-clamps, your choice) and that's it. I use a piece of machined aluminum angle, others use polyethylene, some use a jointed piece of hardboard, others a built up right angle fence. It doesn't really matter, as long as it is straight and 90 degrees.
> 
> ...


I ended up buying a table but kept thinking about the Oak Park one, finally dawned on me that all I had to do was take the t-bolts off and I could still clamp the fence anywhere I wanted so now I got it both ways. I like to keep the t-tracks for the times I need to make sequentially deeper cuts. Helps me keep the fence in line and allows fairly minute adjustments.

I bought a MLCS table and had some issues within the first day. T-tracks on the fence were to low for featherboards to mount correctly, el cheapo t-tracks that only accepted 1/4" hardware, Dust collector that connected to something unknown to modern man. I've figured out workarounds for all these issues except the irritation of having to do it in the first place. 
Have a good one.


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## jtravnick (Jun 23, 2009)

*What about menards?*

Has anyone looked at the router tables at menards? Not sure what brand they are. (think shopfox?) I keep looking at them just for the top and build my own cabinet but havnt heard anything about them good or bad.

Jim


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

jtravnick said:


> Has anyone looked at the router tables at menards? Not sure what brand they are. (think shopfox?) I keep looking at them just for the top and build my own cabinet but havnt heard anything about them good or bad.
> 
> Jim


I investigated the Menards table when trying to decide on table purchase. It is barely above their proprietary "Tool Shop" brand in quality. The top is made of paste board and the fence is dreck. The stand is weak, as well. I ran away from it as fast as I could. 
Since this thread is about purchasing a table, I'd recommend this for starting out:Woodstock table. If DIY is an option, IMO, that's the better route.


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

westend said:


> I'd recommend this for starting out:Woodstock table.


_Popular Mechanics_ really liked it when they did their table test in 2001:

Comparison Test: 9 Hot Router Tables - Popular Mechanics

.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

I will add that the Oak Park top, or table is one of the best ones. Once you follow the measuring an the style that the Router Workshop guys use, You will find out how easy the setup is. the need for all the bells and whistles are gone, and use is easier for you. I am a believer! Check out Oak Park on the net, and they have some videos that should help.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

kp91 said:


> azw,
> 
> Oak park uses the KISS method (keep it simple, stupid). Two clamps (c-clamps, F-clamps, your choice) and that's it. I use a piece of machined aluminum angle, others use polyethylene, some use a jointed piece of hardboard, others a built up right angle fence. It doesn't really matter, as long as it is straight and 90 degrees.
> 
> ...


That is an impressive looking table, Doug.

Where did you find the plans for that..

Jmaes


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## Butch123 (Jul 5, 2009)

*router table choices*

I spent a long time on this issue also. I ended up purchasing the Bosch RA1181. I have spent numerous hours trying to level the plate (that attaches to the router) with the rest of the table and :angry:with the fence. I get close but there is still a gap that I can't eliminate. It will probably be okay and knowing it only cost about $168 I can't complain too much I guess.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

jw2170 said:


> That is an impressive looking table, Doug.
> 
> Where did you find the plans for that..
> 
> Jmaes



Hi James,

Look here: Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

In the two years since this thread started there have been many changes in the world of router tables. Rockler bought Bench Dog, HF sells the Bosch/Craftsman deluxe table with a throw away router included for a fraction of the price, The white Bosch/Craftsman tables were discontinued and now for better news. Kreg came out with a very nice bench top model, their floor model is a decent choice too All the magazines continue to ignor the Router Workshop table which is still the highest quality table on the market. Once you see the tables in person the choice becomes very easy.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Mike said:


> In the two years since this thread started there have been many changes in the world of router tables. Rockler bought Bench Dog, HF sells the Bosch/Craftsman deluxe table with a throw away router included for a fraction of the price, The white Bosch/Craftsman tables were discontinued and now for better news. Kreg came out with a very nice bench top model, their floor model is a decent choice too All the magazines continue to ignor the Router Workshop table which is still the highest quality table on the market. Once you see the tables in person the choice becomes very easy.


They're not ignoring it. They can't make any money on it! Lets face it, the magazines are going to push what pays the bills. Throw enough money at me and I'll say whatever you want me to. I'm not proud, just greedy.

Now, you want the facts, come to this forum and get all sides of the story, from those who use the products and those who use alternatives.

I learned a long time ago what is good for one person ain't necessarily so for another.

Allthunbs


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## nitt18 (Jul 24, 2009)

I don't have any experience with it, but when researching them, I seem to remember that the Bosch RA1171 had a different, and better table than the 1181. Might be worth a look.


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## janemarks (Feb 20, 2010)

I have recently purchased the Bosch 1181 and am very happy with it. It's the middle table pictured in the center of the first row on the pictures presented. I still made a rolling stand for it to sit on. I use my Milwaukee router in it and didn't need to do anything special to mount it.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

janemarks said:


> I have recently purchased the Bosch 1181 and am very happy with it. It's the middle table pictured in the center of the first row on the pictures presented. I still made a rolling stand for it to sit on. I use my Milwaukee router in it and didn't need to do anything special to mount it.


Hi Jane:

You need 10 posts before you can put up a picture. Say hello top 4 more people in the introductions forum and you've got your 10 posts.

I am interested in seeing the tables so post your 10 soon pls.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jane

You don't need 10 posted items to post some pictures, you can do it right off the bat.. 

==========


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## Rmgervais (Apr 22, 2010)

The best router table and router I've seen so far is from sommerfelds tools. Big table high fence, matching bits once height is set on the first bit just drop in matching, no readjusting. just ordered one myself


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## jmg1017 (Apr 9, 2009)

Mike said:


> All the magazines continue to ignor the Router Workshop table which is still the highest quality table on the market.


I thought this was an interesting comment. What is this opinion based upon?
I've seen this table in person. It seems like a simple,sturdy little bench top model. Nothing special or unique about it. My opinion is that it falls into the middle to lower spectrum of the bench top category. Better than the Porter Cable 698 table I used to own, but not in the league of the Bosch RA1171 or the Bench Dog 40-001, both of which have taller fences with dust collection and tracks for feather boards which make them safer units.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

jmg1017 said:


> I thought this was an interesting comment. What is this opinion based upon?
> I've seen this table in person. It seems like a simple,sturdy little bench top model. Nothing special or unique about it. My opinion is that it falls into the middle to lower spectrum of the bench top category. Better than the Porter Cable 698 table I used to own, but not in the league of the Bosch RA1171 or the Bench Dog 40-001, both of which have taller fences with dust collection and tracks for feather boards which make them safer units.


Hi Joe:

That opinion is based on experience and a frugal workshop. Here's the rub. When you buy a router table, you buy into a philosophy and a way of using a router in a table. Everything you do from that point on dictates that you return to the manufacturer/vendor for additional capability, except the Router Workshop. The Router Workshop (RW) method is simple and an extremely well thought out system of using a router. Although OakPark (the Router Workshop TV show's selling arm) would be quite happy to sell you everything that they make, much of their system can be duplicated with materials in your workshop or, in the case of plastics, readily available from local vendors.

The alternative is to have someone attach a rather large vacuum cleaner to your pocketbook and every time you consider another accessory, they turn on the vacuum and you get cleaned. Consider the Kreg Router Table Package is $314.98 on sale (fence not included = $199, Precision Router Table Fence Stop not included = $24.99.) For that kind of money you can buy a new router and build your own table from scraps and still have cash left over for a reasonable meal in a restaurant. If you're like me, that's a cheap router from a garage sale, scrap 2x4s and a nice restaurant. Oh, and my shop is on casters so that would include 4 x 3" casters.

The RW doesn't use router lifts. Instead you lift out the router and change the bit or whatever. With RW you make your own table. You can make your own baseplates to your specifications if need be or you can copy theirs to match your router. You can also make most of the jigs and gadgets they sell if you're like me, too cheap to buy them or just don't have a use for some of them.

You'll find this philosophy in lots of threads throughout the forum. I would recommend that you watch some of the RW videos on the The Woodworking Channel . This will give you the best introduction to the system.


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## jmg1017 (Apr 9, 2009)

I'll skip the meal and take the better tool. Every time. 
All vacuum cleaner hyperbole aside, I agree that each woodworker has his own philosophy. To me it's about getting better, improving my skills and improving my results. When I purchase a tool it's with that philosophy in mind. To me the OakPark table is too restrictive. I understand it's a benchtop model and can't be compared to a full size table, but as far as I'm concerned the shortcomings can't be overlooked especially in today's tool market. The fence is woefully undersized making it unsafe for any vertical work such as raised panels. Now maybe to woodworkers just starting out raised panels are something farther down the road, but why limit yourself? And where is the fence mounted dust collection? I know years ago dust collection was not a primary concern but we've learned quite a bit since then and nearly every modern woodworking tool incorporates some sort of dust collection. It makes no sense not to. And it's unsafe.

In my jewelry box show and tell thread you can see the router table I used to own and used for that build. It was a benchtop cast aluminum Porter Cable with a homemade MDF fence. It was ok but it greatly limited the size of the stock I could machine and it made repeating accurate set ups and cuts very time consuming. It also compromised safety. That's why after that project I decided to bite the bullet and invest in something I wouldn't have to replace anytime soon.










The table measures 24 x 32 and has a full 30" fence. The OP asked why such a long fence was needed. The answer is pretty obvious, better support, which means greater accuracy and more confidence for the worker. It's also a full 6" tall and includes t-track for feather boards and includes a bit guard which means it's much safer. And of course it includes a port for dust collection.










The table also has provisions for a router plate or a router lift if you prefer. The original poster made it a point to sarcastically state that with a lesser table than the OakPark the user had to make numerous trips back and forth to the workbench to retrieve and return bits. Well unless you have an airplane hanger for a shop I don't see that as an issue. He did fail to mention however that with his table the user needs to lift the router out every time he wants to change a bit. Not true with a table that accepts a router lift..










Oh, and to prove I do have a frugal side, instead of buying one of those overpriced metal dust cabinets I made one myself from some 1/2" MDF. One of the few things bobj3 and I agree on. Works like a charm.










To each his own...my advice would only be don't limit yourself. Get the best tools you can afford. It will make working more enjoyable and the results will only be limited by your imagination.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Joe:

That's no hyperbole. 

My table is 36" high (to match the other elements in my shop) 24"x48" with 26" and 52" low fences and a 26" tall (10-15" tall) fence. The height matches the other modules in my shop so I can have a "router table" 12' long and 6' wide, all based on the OakPark baseplate. My top also has accommodation for 2 router setups at one time and the fences are micro-adjustable with Rob's fine adjusting tool.

This is the most versatile of all of the horizontal router table philosophies. However, I fully expect that I'll be building a vertical table sooner than later and skis are one of the first considerations in any router-based project.

I'm sorry but I cannot agree with your assumptions.


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## Rmgervais (Apr 22, 2010)

The best table i've seen so far is from sommerfeld tools.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Joe... a clarification.. I do not own a Oak Park plate, instead I own an Incra Wonderfence with Incra/Jessem Mast-R-Lift. The Oak Park system has a DC feature I wish mine had. The Oak Park plate is available with vacuum ports, aligned to draw from the fence and ahead of the bit. For cases when I'm cutting with the bit against the fence, the fence vac pickup is great but when cutting a dado, it doesn't help. The Oak Park also has a port in the plate in front of the bit, so to assist in chip removal. Considering the number of times I've found myself digging the chips out of the dado between cuts, I see it as a real plus.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just to add a bit more to Jim's post 

Router Forums - View Single Post - Oak Park Box Joint Jig update
Router Forums - View Single Post - Oak Park Box Joint Jig update


==


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

I have to disagree about the statement on a longer fence, better control. All the work is done at the bit no matter what size of fence you're using. You may think you have a nice straight piece until you get so far then notice it pull away from the fence. Wood moves period!! The longer the fence, the more this will be noticeable. I will say only one thing about the OP table, it WILL do exactly the same thing as any other table out on the market. Only difference is, doesn't have all the fancy bells & whistles. They aren't needed.

For my next table, I too am looking at Sommerfelds.


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## jmg1017 (Apr 9, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> I have to disagree about the statement on a longer fence, better control. All the work is done at the bit no matter what size of fence you're using. You may think you have a nice straight piece until you get so far then notice it pull away from the fence. Wood moves period!! The longer the fence, the more this will be noticeable.


Using this logic, why then use a taller fence or jig for raised panels? Who needs the support when the wood is probably not straight anyway?. That's like saying a smaller table surface is as stable or offers as much support as a larger table. Makes no sense.
I also disagree with the "all the work is done at the bit" theory. How accurately the bit does it's job is directly related to the manner in which the wood passes the bit. And that is a direct reflection on how flat the table surface is and how square the fence surface is during the ENTIRE length of the cut.
Sure wood moves, with seasonal changes, not between operations during a build. And if it does you square it up again before the next operation.
Larger heavier flat tables and longer taller straight fences offer more support offer more control and confidence for the woodworker. They also help produce more accurate repeatable cuts and they're safer.
Those are the physical facts, not assumptions. 
Anyway, enjoy and work safely with whichever table you decide to purchase.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> I have to disagree about the statement on a longer fence, better control. All the work is done at the bit no matter what size of fence you're using. You may think you have a nice straight piece until you get so far then notice it pull away from the fence. Wood moves period!! The longer the fence, the more this will be noticeable. I will say only one thing about the OP table, it WILL do exactly the same thing as any other table out on the market. Only difference is, doesn't have all the fancy bells & whistles. They aren't needed.
> 
> For my next table, I too am looking at Sommerfelds.


If the OP table will do exactly the same thing as any other table out on the market, why would you be looking at the Sommerfeld as your next table?


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

The best table is the one you make yourself.

I'll never see the need to buy one.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Joe:

Thanks for putting forth your rebuttal. We're all learning.



jmg1017 said:


> Using this logic, why then use a taller fence or jig for raised panels?


The taller fence is used to hold a featherboard or supporting tall workpieces. In some operations the featherboard is absolutely critical. It is also necessary for precision operations where consistent pressure is required against the table, bit and fence.



> Who needs the support when the wood is probably not straight anyway?.


I'm in the habit of squaring up stock once and using it immediately. Nothing worse than spending a day machining a workpiece only to have it twist during the night.



> That's like saying a smaller table surface is as stable or offers as much support as a larger table. Makes no sense.


I've seen guys develop techniques for almost every situation. My bandsaw has a 14x14 table 44" (?) off the floor and I cut some 4' long stock with that table. Longer than that and I'd use the outfeed roller.



> I also disagree with the "all the work is done at the bit" theory. How accurately the bit does it's job is directly related to the manner in which the wood passes the bit. And that is a direct reflection on how flat the table surface is and how square the fence surface is during the ENTIRE length of the cut.


Actually, noone is totally right nor totally wrong. I do a lot of stuff "off the bearing" which means I use a pivot pin and run the stock against the top bearing of the bit. It is easier to control a large piece on a smaller table than a large. Conversely, it is easier to run a long piece through the bit with a longer fence and table. The OP table is a nice compromise, long enough for all but the >6' projects yet narrow enough for small projects and a full retinue of accessories.



> Sure wood moves, with seasonal changes, not between operations during a build. And if it does you square it up again before the next operation.


I have to differ with you here. Where at all possible I try to fix milled stock as quickly as possible. It is a real pain to have to re-mill stock that has twisted over night or even through the course of a day. You have to remember routing removes material with little regard for grain or "imperfections." The hand craftsman learned a long time ago to ignore the grain at his peril. Routing imposes its will on the wood and sometimes it can be most frustrating. I created some 1 1/2" round over 8' long, for a period house and it was twisting as it came off the final cut. I ended up clamping the two pieces opposite each other onto another board just to transport them to the site. They ended up sitting under concrete blocks to "hold them in place" until they "calmed down."



> Larger heavier flat tables and longer taller straight fences offer more support offer more control and confidence for the woodworker. They also help produce more accurate repeatable cuts and they're safer.


Here I cannot agree. A lot depends on the work being done. There are very few on this forum who do architectural detailing. Many do pens, boxes, panels, small projects, furniture, built-ins and the list goes on. For those size of projects, the OP table is ideal. It is only physically larger projects require larger tables. You also have to remember, the router method uses is different for large projects. Skis, guides, shiis, foots, bearing, templates are all suitable for larger projects as well as a plethora of jigs, fixtures and guides, not to mention portable fences.



> Those are the physical facts, not assumptions.


I appreciate your expressing your point of view as I hope you will mine. Suffice to say that for some points we will agree to disagree but I hope this discussion will open up for other's points of view. From that we will all learn.



> Anyway, enjoy and work safely with whichever table you decide to purchase.


Hear Hear!


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

jlord said:


> If the OP table will do exactly the same thing as any other table out on the market, why would you be looking at the Sommerfeld as your next table?


Because I have an open space not being utilized on the right side of my TS.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

The Best of Both Worlds
http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/9782-best-both-worlds.html

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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

To quote Mark in another thread:

"I would like to direct everyone to this sticky before they proceed with this discussion: http://www.routerforums.com/routerf...rums-com-member-respect-policy-must-read.html

Read it. Understand it.

That is all."


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> Because I have an open space not being utilized on the right side of my TS.


Good enough answer as any.


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## azw (Dec 4, 2007)

Wow, I hadn't realized that the discussion had carried on so long.

I ended up with the Bench Dog Contractor from Rockler because it is portable and easier to store. The quality is significantly better than that of the Bosch and Freud tables I had been considering.


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