# Bosch 1617EVSPK Router table adjustment



## dtaylor15 (Jan 22, 2006)

Have an opportunity to purchase a never used, but older, purchased in 2003 Bosch, which I seen at a local tool show. the router at the show was demo'd with the ability to adjust the fixed router bit height installed in a table from the top of the router without removing the router from the table, does anyone have a 1617 about the same age?....I liked the idea of height adjustment from the surface, but does the older model support that same feature.....any help is appreciated before the deal would go south....tks in advance....Dennis


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## reikimaster (Sep 29, 2005)

Above-table adjustment is not standard on any 1617 model as far as I know. The 1617EVSPK comes with an RA1160 base (fixed, with a height adjustment knob), and the plunge base.

Bosch RA1165 Undertable Router Base w/Above-Table Wrench Access 
The RA1165 base for the 1617EVSPK gives you the ability to adjust bit height from above the table. You STILL, however, have to reach under the table to unlock the router base to allow the adjustment and then you have to snap the lock closed after the adjustment. 

Bosch RA1164 Undertable Router Base
The RA1164 base has an adjustment knob accessible when you reach under the table. It has an extension shaft on the adjustment knob to make this easier. 

The RA1160 base is your standard fixed base with adjustment knob. 

Considering that you have to reach under the table in ANY event to unlock the base, AND since you are probably going to be bent over anyways to eyeball your bit height, I just haven't found this above-table adjustment to warrant the expense of buying another base. If I buy a base just for my router table (instead of just using my fixed base in there) I'd probably look for the RA1164 because the RA1165 is *normally* quite a bit more expensive. If you can get the RA1165 base for the price of an RA1164 then having the OPTION of that above-table adjuster might be worth it.

ALSO... on your 1617EVSPK does it say Magnesium? (I think it was magnesium... some alloy thing...) ... if so, look at the motor case. The silver part. Does it look like it has a white powdery or flakey appearance? If so, it is experiencing a corrosion problem. I believe Bosch is replacing those motor cases for free, but check with them before doing anything so you have the correct information. My case is magnesium, but I am not seeing the corrosion problem and since I know there WAS a problem I simply wipe my case down and examine it regularly. So far a non-issue.


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## dtaylor15 (Jan 22, 2006)

i attended a woodworking show this past weekend, and they had a Bosch combo there 1617evspk, and it has a hole in the router plate thru the base, that a tee-allen wrench would fit thru to fine adjust the bit up & down...it was 212.00......I have a friend that has a new Bosch 1617EVSspk, that he got in 2003 from Amazon with a straight edge guide and is willing to part with it for 165.00, it right now is in the local Bosch service center for just the corrision problem you are referring to and that will be taken care of at no charge even after all this time....his price is much nicer, does anything think this feature is worth the extra $$$$!...I haven't opened the new one yet, trying to decide which is better, besides the $$$$ how is the Bosch to adjust from under the table and does this feature warrant the price difference.....after reading on this site, I intend to mount the fixed base and leave in table and use the plunge base for freehand work....any input is appreciated...Dennis


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## reikimaster (Sep 29, 2005)

As I said, the above-table adjustment (hole in base plate, extended fine adjustment shaft, t-handle) is the RA1165 base. If you can get the 1617EVSPK WITH that base, for the same money or less money than a standard fixed base combo, then it might be worth it. Unless they've changed something ((which could very well be) the standard 1617EVSPK combo kit does not include the RA1165, but rather the RA1160 fixed base. 

I bought my 1617EVSPK combo kit for $159 and found the Bosch edge guide on eBay for $20. 

Does that above-table adjustment capability warrent a big difference in price? In my opinion, no. If it meant you could do everything from above the table, then definitely it would. But you can't. You still have to bend down and unlock the motor so it can be moved while adjusting and then RElock the motor when you're done adjusting. So what are you really saving as far as effort? Not much in my estimation.


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

reikimaster said:


> If it meant you could do everything from above the table, then definitely it would. But you can't. You still have to bend down and unlock the motor so it can be moved while adjusting and then RElock the motor when you're done adjusting. So what are you really saving as far as effort? Not much in my estimation.


Hey RMaster!
Sounds like you've been using it for awhile - my question is, do you experience any shifting of bit position - either horiz or vert - when you lock or unlock the motor to adjust the height on the 1617? That's been a problem for me on my old Craftsman.
Gil


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## reikimaster (Sep 29, 2005)

Gilbear said:


> Hey RMaster!
> Sounds like you've been using it for awhile - my question is, do you experience any shifting of bit position - either horiz or vert - when you lock or unlock the motor to adjust the height on the 1617? That's been a problem for me on my old Craftsman.
> Gil


I haven't seen any of that at this point. Mine is still pretty new I would say, but I've made several flutes with it and no problem so far. Making flutes I'm doing in 2 halves. I route chambers in each half and then the halves get glued together. The chambers have to match and the diameter has to be pretty exact. Variations in the bore of the chambers can make the flute not function properly (disturbances in airflow) and if the diameter doesn't come out as expected, tuning becomes difficult. And some of them are calculated to have oval bores. If I'm a 64th off anywhere it shows up and usually ain't pretty 

So... short answer... no I haven't had a problem with bit shift when unlocking and locking. I always adjust the bit UP. If I have to adjust DOWN, then I take it past where I want it and bring it UP to where I intended it to be. If you give gravity a chance... it will always win.


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

Thanks - I'm off shopping for the Craftsman replacement tomorrow and it's come down to being between the Bosch combo and the PC 890 combo - I appreciate your timely input!


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## L G monson (May 16, 2007)

The standard RA1160 fixed base for the Bosch 1617 router can indeed be converted to the RA1165 undertable mount configuration. Be advised that it can be done only on the aluminum bases, not the magnesium bases. The aluminum bases have the letters "AL" cast in the housing just below the clamping lever. Magnesium bases have one of the baseplate attach screws located right where the hole needs to be drilled. When you remove the baseplate of the RA1160 base you will see that Bosch has already partially drilled the location for the hole needed for the longer "adjusting rod", (Bosch P/N 2 610 922 527).
All you will need to do is to drill the rest of the way through the base, install that part, and drill a matching hole in your router table's insert plate. You will also need a replacement knob (Bosch P/N 2 610 993 576) as the knob on the original adjusting rod cannot be removed without destroying it. You will however be able to reuse the original "indicator" sleeve (Bosch P/N 2 610 993 577). You will also need a 1/8" allen wrench for making bit height changes. The undertable mount configuration really simplifies making bit height changes. One turn of the wrench equals 1/16" and one quarter turn is 1/64". I've found that accurate height changes can best be made by gradually raising the bit instead of lowering it. Also be sure mark your insert plate with an "UP" arrow indicator. Once you get used the setup, you will find that you will rarely need to bend down to view the indicator. By feel, you can loosen the clamp lever, make the adjustment from above the table and re-clamp the lever. Again, since the location of the clamp lever and the router switch and speed control always remain in the same place, most of the changes under the table can be done by feel. 

PS - - If you have trouble getting the adjusting rod from Bosch, try Sears. Their Craftsman Router, # 130.26620 is nearly identical and has the same part numbers for both the adjusting rod and the knob.


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## L G monson (May 16, 2007)

Bosch has a free exchange program for replacing magnesuim housing motors. Contact the factory service center for details and exchange procedures. Be sure you also exchange your magnesuim bases too as the aluminum motor housings are sligntly larger in diameter and will not slide easily in the older magnesium bases.


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## lgmonson (Jul 27, 2007)

L G monson said:


> The standard RA1160 fixed base for the Bosch 1617 router can indeed be converted to the RA1165 undertable mount configuration. Be advised that it can be done only on the aluminum bases, not the magnesium bases. The aluminum bases have the letters "AL" cast in the housing just below the clamping lever. Magnesium bases have one of the baseplate attach screws located right where the hole needs to be drilled. When you remove the baseplate of the RA1160 base you will see that Bosch has already partially drilled the location for the hole needed for the longer "adjusting rod", (Bosch P/N 2 610 922 527).
> All you will need to do is to drill the rest of the way through the base, install that part, and drill a matching hole in your router table's insert plate. You will also need a replacement knob (Bosch P/N 2 610 993 576) as the knob on the original adjusting rod cannot be removed without destroying it. You will however be able to reuse the original "indicator" sleeve (Bosch P/N 2 610 993 577). You will also need a 1/8" allen wrench for making bit height changes. The undertable mount configuration really simplifies making bit height changes. One turn of the wrench equals 1/16" and one quarter turn is 1/64". I've found that accurate height changes can best be made by gradually raising the bit instead of lowering it. Also be sure mark your insert plate with an "UP" arrow indicator. Once you get used the setup, you will find that you will rarely need to bend down to view the indicator. By feel, you can loosen the clamp lever, make the adjustment from above the table and re-clamp the lever. Again, since the location of the clamp lever and the router switch and speed control always remain in the same place, most of the changes under the table can be done by feel.
> 
> PS - - If you have trouble getting the adjusting rod from Bosch, try Sears. Their Craftsman Router, # 130.26620 is nearly identical and has the same part numbers for both the adjusting rod and the knob.


NOTE:
(The adjusting rod I ordered from Sears is an original OEM part that comes in a sealed plastic envelope complete with a Bosch factory lable and P/N sticker)


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## lgmonson (Jul 27, 2007)

Bosch has a free exchange program for replacing magnesuim housing motors. Contact the factory service center for details and exchange procedures. Be sure you also exchange your magnesuim bases too as the aluminum motor housings are sligntly larger in diameter and will not slide easily in the older magnesium bases.

The standard RA1160 fixed base for the Bosch 1617 router can indeed be converted to the RA1165 undertable mount configuration. Be advised that it can be done only on the aluminum bases, not the magnesium bases. The aluminum bases have the letters "AL" cast in the housing just below the clamping lever. Magnesium bases have one of the baseplate attach screws located right where the hole needs to be drilled. When you remove the baseplate of the RA1160 base you will see that Bosch has already partially drilled the location for the hole needed for the longer "adjusting rod", (Bosch P/N 2 610 922 527).
All you will need to do is to drill the rest of the way through the base, install that part, and drill a matching hole in your router table's insert plate. You will also need a replacement knob (Bosch P/N 2 610 993 576) as the knob on the original adjusting rod cannot be removed without destroying it. You will however be able to reuse the original "indicator" sleeve (Bosch P/N 2 610 993 577). You will also need a 1/8" allen wrench for making bit height changes. The undertable mount configuration really simplifies making bit height changes. One turn of the wrench equals 1/16" and one quarter turn is 1/64". I've found that accurate height changes can best be made by gradually raising the bit instead of lowering it. Also be sure mark your insert plate with an "UP" arrow indicator. Once you get used the setup, you will find that you will rarely need to bend down to view the indicator. By feel, you can loosen the clamp lever, make the adjustment from above the table and re-clamp the lever. Again, since the location of the clamp lever and the router switch and speed control always remain in the same place, most of the changes under the table can be done by feel. 

PS - - If you have trouble getting the adjusting rod from Bosch, try Sears. Their Craftsman Router, # 130.26620 is nearly identical and has the same part numbers for both the adjusting rod and the knob. 



NOTE:
(The adjusting rod I ordered from Sears is an original OEM part that comes in a sealed plastic envelope complete with a Bosch factory lable and P/N sticker)


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