# UHMW or HMW for table top?



## brettmansdorf (Jan 15, 2008)

Anyone used either of these materials as inlays or even the table top?

Due to its unique lubricating properties, it would certainly make for a slick table (perhaps too slick?).

Just wondering.

Also - anyone know what a full sheet (5X10X1/4) costs of the UHMW or the HMW? I checked a few local prices and found I could by a cutting board at marshalls cheeper and just cut strips myself...

Thanx as always.


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## AlanWS (May 2, 2007)

It is a very durable surface with low friction, but I think it would be a lot better as a thin film over another material for strength than it would be as a structural material. You can buy it from www.mcmaster.com . A 2' square piece 1/2" thick is about $50. The cutting boards are likely HDPE rather than UHMW-PE, which is similar, but not as tough or as slippery. Mcmaster sells adhesive backed UHMW PE film 0.020" thick (#85655K15). A 2' square sheet would be about $12.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi brettmansdorf

It works very well and it's not to slick, but slick is good for a router table 

http://www.routerforums.com/45518-post1.html


And you'er right on think cutting boards...


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brettmansdorf said:


> Anyone used either of these materials as inlays or even the table top?
> 
> Due to its unique lubricating properties, it would certainly make for a slick table (perhaps too slick?).
> 
> ...


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## Eric Nelson (Jul 19, 2005)

*UHMW Polyethylene*

:sold: UHMW can be too slick for some vacuum tables -- the workpiece can go spinning off the UHMW unless it is clamped properly.

One of the manufacturers of UHMW is Garland Manufacturing in Maine.


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## Black_Blade (Jan 3, 2008)

I would think some plastic laminate over 1" of substrate would do you just as well in the slippery deapartment. It's quite durable, easy to apply and is prolly little cheaper (and just think of the custom colors you got to choose from!)


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## Jimray9 (Oct 28, 2004)

*I vote laminate*

A few years back I toured a manufacturing company and apparently went so ga-ga over the huge hunks of uhmw all over the place that they felt sorry for me. 
About a week later a huge box loaded with about 75 lbs of the stuff showed up at my house. 
It's great when positioned to slide up against something else smooth, like a miter slot, another piece of uhmw, phenolic, plastic laminate. 
I've used it in dozens of things. I would not use it as a table surface. It's relatively easy to gouge or dent. You can easily dig your fingernail into it. It's also possible to scratch it and for it to wear. 
Check out jigs that include it. You'll almost never see it positioned to come in sliding contact with the wood.

Jim


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Most commercial router tables have tops built from a plastic laminate like Formica or Laminex brands. If there was a better choice they would use it. UHMW and HDPE work much better for jigs and fences.


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## r brandt (Jan 31, 2008)

I agree with most of the other posters - it's too slick for a table top, and may not bee very hard. I just built a table with a 3/4" piece of phenolic for the top. Works great!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I agree with you most of the time but on this one I do disagree.. 

Have you tried to bend a 3/4" thick UHMW or HDPE stock, they don't .

That's why they use it on fences, it stays true and it's slick so the stock can slide by easy...just like the Oak-Park box joint/spacer jigs..

I think they don't use it on tops because of the cost..the last time I checked on a 3/4" x 4' x 8' over 250.oo...dollars that would push the price of a router table out of site for most..when a laminated top will do the trick for much less..

"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions." 
MIKE
Senior Moderator

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Mike said:


> Most commercial router tables have tops built from a plastic laminate like Formica or Laminex brands. If there was a better choice they would use it. UHMW and HDPE work much better for jigs and fences.


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## plomanto (Jan 5, 2008)

another thing about UHMW is that it is very sensitive to temps. It will grow and warp with only a small change in temp.


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## scrollwolf (Sep 12, 2004)

What about using 1/4" or 3/8" for a baseplate? I have just made three of them. Two to fit my OP table and 7" for handheld work. I did this because I was toying with the idea of making a 3-router table. What do you think bj?

Jack


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jack

I like stuff  I made a router table and use on it...yesterday I put some on my drill press 1/2" x 14" x 16" cutting board thing  and it's great...someone said if it gets hot it will bend ,,if it gets that hot in my shop I gone out the door long b/4 that 

On the router table I made I did use some 3/4" MDF for the sub base because all I had on hand was 1/4" thick stuff....plus it sure makes it easy to put in the drop in base plate,,,

One router in a table is good but 3 is GREAT....
snaphots pls..after you have it done,,,I have most of the parts to make a new table and I was going to put in 4 routers but it's on the back burner for now...running out of room thing    

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scrollwolf said:


> What about using 1/4" or 3/8" for a baseplate? I have just made three of them. Two to fit my OP table and 7" for handheld work. I did this because I was toying with the idea of making a 3-router table. What do you think bj?
> 
> Jack


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## scrollwolf (Sep 12, 2004)

*Baseplates*

Thanks bj,
I found some 1/4" cutting boards at Lowes and I decided to to try by hand at making baseplates. I used my OP plates as a template. They turned out pretty well.

Jack


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

BJ? Why on earth would I want to bend UHMW or HDPE? I said: "UHMW and HDPE work much better for jigs and fences."


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Looking good Jack 

You made 100.oo dollars of base plates for about 25.oo dollars now you got me wanting to make some more too  you almost paid for your router by making your own..


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scrollwolf said:


> Thanks bj,
> I found some 1/4" cutting boards at Lowes and I decided to to try by hand at making baseplates. I used my OP plates as a template. They turned out pretty well.
> 
> Jack


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## boxer (Sep 15, 2004)

scrollwolf said:


> Thanks bj,
> I found some 1/4" cutting boards at Lowes and I decided to to try by hand at making baseplates. I used my OP plates as a template. They turned out pretty well.
> 
> Jack


What are you using to cut it with? Is it safe to cut UHMW on a tablesaw?
Kevin


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## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

On a slightly-related aside, for a project I'm almost finished working on (mounting a Bosch jig saw upside down to a router table baseplate), I recently purchased a 15"x20"x1/2" polypropylene cutting board from Sam's Club for $10. Tough to beat that price!

Cuts, routs and drills smoothly and is now a drop-in replacement for my usual router table baseplate.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

boxer, you can do anything to UHMW that you do to wood. Although a bandsaw would probably be a better (safer) choice for cutting smaller boards.


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## boxer (Sep 15, 2004)

Thanks for the reply. Kevin


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## scrollwolf (Sep 12, 2004)

I cut the rough shape with the table saw or miter saw. Then I moute blank to the original and use a 1/2" flush trim bit to cut the final shape and openings.
Jack


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## woodcarver (Dec 12, 2007)

Try a high pressure laminate (Formica) and wax it. It is very slick. I use it for a carrier board on may plane. Due a disablity, I lack a lot of strength. There is no trouble sliding a 12" by 60" by 2" board thru.

Tony


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## Eric Nelson (Jul 19, 2005)

*UHMW Polyethylene*

There is a manufacturer of UHMW located in Maine about 90 miles north of Boston. I don't know if they sell direct, but it might be worth a call or Googling.

garlandmfg


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