# First and only (I hope!) Router table



## CanuckBeaver (Dec 23, 2004)

I know, I know, router tables have been hashed over on this forum many times, but for the benefit of the "Table Design Challenged" can we pick away at some of the finer points of Table and fence design?

I have been reading articles in both paper and online regarding router tables and have been pondering what to use and what to improve on. I have picked up on some awesome links provided right here (thanks to you guys and gals) and have some great ideas from them. I'm taking a ton of ideas from the Dec 2005 issue of Woodworkers Journal's excellent article on "The Ultimate Router Table".

Not so short and sweet. I have limited space in a 22' wide by 26' long "super single" garage. The 16' door is off set to provide a 3 ft wide storage space down one 26' wall for all of my wood working tools to be rolled under a bench when not in use. Yup, it's all on mobile bases. The garage is used to park a full size extended cab long box pickup truck (yes it does suck in parking lots) as with Canadian winters I hate brushing snow and scraping frost. The space on the 22' wall is already spoken for (mechanical & metal fab).

The top I have chosen is a piece of 18" x 31" (thats how long my miter gage track is) x 1 3/4" laminate beam. (sag that puppy!) I will sand the beam to +/- .001" of flat before applying the arborite to the top and bottom. 

Finally here's the question! In most of the plans I have seen there is a acre of room behind the fence with the router centered in the table top (usually 24" wide) with an 19 1/2" wide table top (including the 3/4" trim) I would like to reduce the space behind the fence to allow more "working area" for the wood on the table as well as room for the miter gage. Are there any hard and fast rules in building a table regarding distance between the router plate and the miter track? Between the router plate and the (behind fence) edge of the table? What about fence travel distances? With the miter gage I have purchased (it's a 9" wide bull) the track will be centered 4 1/2" from the edge of the table. Do you think I am trying to go too compact and crowded?

In your replies please include "why" it has to be done that way.

TIA,
CB


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

I recently built a router table that does not have a miter track. But since I also deal with very limited space I thought I would share with you how and why I built it the way I did.
I thought I had an "originial" design, but the other day I saw one on a site with free plans that was almost identical. My table is 34x24 and about 5" tall. It's basically just a top with a rectangular frame attatched on the underside so I can clamp it into a B&D Workmate folding workbench.
When planning my table I searched several online retailers and found the same [router in the center]. I could not see any reason I would ever run stock between the fence and the bit. So I oriented my table the the opposite way [fence is 24"] and centered the router 14" from the edge. I went that far in to keep the weight of the router closer to the center of the workmate.
The fence rides in T-track and has a T-track in it for a featherboard for downward pressure. I also made a sled [very similar to the MLCS sled] to make the cope cuts on some cabinet doors I've been making. The sled rides against the fence so it does not require lining up a miter track, a bit, and the fence.
I may add a miter track at some point. But it would be for accessories[featherboard, etc.]and would be spaced to fit at that point.

Rusty


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## CanuckBeaver (Dec 23, 2004)

Thanks for the repy Rusty. I'm glad to see someone thinking outside the box ( your 24" fence). 

I had the good fortune of talking to a commercial cabinet contractor today at the BORG. I mentioned my ideas to him and he said "They ought to work well." He was kind of confused at first when I explained my fence design (it's over kill) but understood that I only want to build ONE router table.

I'll take some pictures as I go along and keep them in a file. When I'm finished I'll (god willing) figure out how to post them so we can all have a good chuckle.

Cheers!
CB


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## mopar (Jan 16, 2006)

newbie here. pls click the link below for my introductory post in this forum:

http://routerforums.com/showthread.php?p=22203#post22203

seems most of us have limited space as a major factor when planning to build a router table. well, add to this limited budget in my case.

i am in the process of making plans for a router table. and like canuckbeaver, i want my router table to be my first (and i hope), my only router table. i want to do this right the first time. 

i'm not only table design challenged, as canuckbeaver puts it; i am design challenged, period, especially when it comes to woodworking. so please excuse my defficiencies.

can any of you guys provide me with as much information (web links are preferred) as there may be with regards to designing and constructing a router table for my application. again, pls click the link i provided to see my requirements. 

thank you so much in advance and more power to you guys!!

jun


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

I'm currently working on a table myself - however, at this point have made no drawings and probably won't untill I start making the fence, and those drawings will be sketchy at best - however, maybe take a look at these for some ideas, and they'll also lead you to some other sites and plans: 

http://www.rareplans.com/jump.php?go=10

also: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/features/fea.asp?id=1108

There's different feelings out here as to incorporating a miter slot in the top - I personaly will have one (don't yell at me Jerry! LOL) because of some of the jigs I use. However, they're certainly not necessary.

Also I think it was the Dec issue of Popular Woodworking that had a feature article on making the "ultimate router table" (why is everybody's table "the ultimate"?) I think he spent way too much time on the rolling base (although it was pretty ingenious, at least to me), but again, some ideas on size and construction in there, as well as dimensioned plans.

In my opinion, tables can be as simple or as complex as you want or need - but it is a tool, not an end product - my advice is to make it as simple as you can while still meeting your needs. Probably the biggest question (as with life in general) is actually figuring out what your REAL needs are. My own perception of my needs has been refining constantly (mostly in a downward direction). Don't get me wrong - take pride in everything you do and do your best work every time, but don't lose sight of what's critical.

Sorry for running at the mouth again - my thoughts anyway and maybe a few sites that can help.

P.S.
OOps, sorry - just saw that CanuckBeav already mentioned the article I referred to and says it was Woodworkers Journal ... at any rate it was a good one, but perhaps a little elaborate. Depends on what you want and need.


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## edbd1100 (Jan 24, 2006)

You wouldn't have any scans of the Dec 2005 issue of Woodworkers Journal's article on "The Ultimate Router Table" by chance.
I missed that issue and would like to thumb through it.
I want to build my own table and would love to see what they came up with.
To get a copy from the publisher it is about $9.00 or so and I like being able to look through it to see if it is what I want.
Or do you know antbody with a copy that they are done with?
Thanks Eric


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

edbd1100 said:


> You wouldn't have any scans of the Dec 2005 issue of Woodworkers Journal's article on "The Ultimate Router Table" by chance.
> I missed that issue and would like to thumb through it.
> I want to build my own table and would love to see what they came up with.
> To get a copy from the publisher it is about $9.00 or so and I like being able to look through it to see if it is what I want.
> ...


Hi eric - I can probably scan it for you if you don't need it right this second - give me a couple days and "can do" - let me know if you'd like (is that legal, by the way?)


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## edbd1100 (Jan 24, 2006)

Gilbear said:


> Hi eric - I can probably scan it for you if you don't need it right this second - give me a couple days and "can do" - let me know if you'd like (is that legal, by the way?)


 Gilbear,
I guess it would be the same as going to the library and photocopying it.
At least that is my thoughts.
If you still want to scan it please do, if you don't feel right about it than just let me know, I'll understand
Thanks Eric


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## Woodnut65 (Oct 11, 2004)

Hi Eric: I have a copy of the "woodworkers Journal" in front of me. I don't save all of the magazines that I get. If you want I would mail it to you, you can send the address by e- mail to [email protected]. As far as router tables go I've had a few renditions of my own. I finally bought the table I have and some of the accessories
from Oak-Park. I made a base for it and mounted the base on a mobile base from Sears. It all works great. Everyone has an "ultimate" router table including Norm Abram. It all depends on your personal choice. Woodnut65


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

*router table*

i have 4 router tables and 4 routers i made the table like rick and bob uses and also got the fence's and most of the other stuff they have sure works good been doing wood working for yrs simi retired have a complete wood shop just made 3 small tables in the last week so just thinking what to make next just checking in del


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## jigger (Sep 23, 2006)

I doubt if this will be the first, but you will learn a lot from it.Be sure the fence is true 90 degrees to the table, if you use a finger jiont or glue joint bit you'll see what I mean. Lots of room in front of the fence is real good if you are doing raised panels. Some times when I am trying to replicate an antique design I find that the mould shape was dome by the old planer way by hand, and I have to use a combination if bits to get as close to the original as I can. The 90 degree T track intersection form Rockler is reall nice to have an intersection at each end of the fence for special hold downs
You'll do great
Frank(jigger)


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

This thread is 1 1/2 years old..


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## Goose67 (Nov 29, 2009)

Most commercial and hobby table saws come with router and jigsaw attachments to either side of the saw so how can it be a problem. My hobby Table saw uses the fence from the saw for the other two attachment with the saw being recessed into the table when not in use


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## Paul Sonnichsen (Oct 3, 2010)

Any chance on updates on the links you provided, neither of them worked. Paul


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## Goose67 (Nov 29, 2009)

With the help of Opalblue and google sketchup we have designed a rolling bench which will house the router and tablesaw. I am hoping to be able to use one fence the length of the bench to use on both applications.


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