# Steps to no Glue showing



## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Ok it's an obvious answer i think.... wipe it clean when possible and sand it after it dries.

I recently glued up some molding to a 1x6 and added an edge later (ogee). I missed some glue on the decorative edge plus some where the wood joined. Needless to say when I applied the stain I could easily see where I missed the glue. The question is what steps and or precations do you take to have no glue showing? Question 2 is what type of sander (Pad, steel wool) do you use for the nooks and crannies.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Marco

Mix up some White Vingar and some bottle water in a spray bottle,in a 50/50 mix wipe up the glue as soon as you can, don't let it dry up the glue soaks in and seals the stock,,you can use Q-Tips in the corners if you have blow out, the water will raize the grain a litte bit but a light touch with sand paper will fix that... 

You can also use it on dry glue but it takes longer to soften the glue up but the key is to get it right at glue up time...

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Marco said:


> Ok it's an obvious answer i think.... wipe it clean when possible and sand it after it dries.
> 
> I recently glued up some molding to a 1x6 and added an edge later (ogee). I missed some glue on the decorative edge plus some where the wood joined. Needless to say when I applied the stain I could easily see where I missed the glue. The question is what steps and or precations do you take to have no glue showing? Question 2 is what type of sander (Pad, steel wool) do you use for the nooks and crannies.


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

If at all possible, I pre-sand before installing parts that will be tough to sand later. Pre-finishing parts is also an option.

Bob's trick with the vinegar works well. Just don't use any more glue than you need. Just a thin film works fine. Lots of glue squeeze out means you had too much glue. 

Another option is to switch glue types. Hide glue is easier to clean up with just water and doesn't interfere with most oil based finishes. Water based finishes it may show up. You can get liquid hide glue from a couple different companies or go full neanderthal and mix from granules.

The open time is longer and the final holding strength is somewhat lower. Lower only in that it would take two elephants in stead of three to dance on the table to break the hide glue.

There is no rule that says you have to use only one type of glue in a project. You have different shapes of router bits for different jobs, why not different glues...


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

Why are you gluing molding to a 1x6 ? most molding is nailed on.

Regards
Jerry


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## Maurice (Sep 24, 2004)

Norm Abrams of New Yankee Workshop just wipes it off with a damp rag.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Maurice

If you see some of the new shows, he now using the Vinegar way 
It's in the wet rag..
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Maurice said:


> Norm Abrams of New Yankee Workshop just wipes it off with a damp rag.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Well thanks all for the good information and I will put it to good use! 

Easy on the glue, 

a 50/50 mix of vinegar and water for wipe up, 

need to check into into hide glue as I hadn't heard of that before now

I do know dried glue is a sight I don't want to see on the finsished end ever again and now with your help I should be good to go.

Jerry the purpose for gluing molding to a 1 by was for a picture frame and I didn't want to hit any brads when making the mitered cuts. Sorry, I should have given more details up front.

Thanks again


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Marco

" hide glue " You may want to check out the link below  

http://www.routerforums.com/tool-swap-n-sell/4323-looking-glue-pot.html



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Marco said:


> Well thanks all for the good information and I will put it to good use!
> 
> Easy on the glue,
> 
> ...


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

How about using low tack masking tape surrounding the glued joint? Peel off after about 30mins.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

If you want to be sure the glue is off, use mineral spirits. Just wipe it on and the glue will show right up, works for me anyway.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

2 more good steps in preventing glue from showing... (Masking tape and mineral spirits). I can't imagine having this problem again.

Bob I followed and read the link you provided and then google around on hide glue and now understand about it. It has its advantages and as someone commented earlier why noy use different glues for different joint on the same project? You had a pic of Rocklers hide glue in your glue pot shot so went to Rockler to find it. It might be me but I couldn't find their brand... the only hide glue they had was Tite Bond's which comes in liquid form and requires no heating. I'll look for it the next time at Lowe's and see what brands if any they carry.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hot hide glue
Buy Ground Hide Glue, 1 Pound at Woodcraft.com
Hide Glue & Supplies at The Best Things
J.E. Moser's PEARL HIDE GLUE

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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

There are 2 best ways of this. 1 as my friend Bj pointed out, 50/50 vinegar & water mix. The other, painters tape. "Masking" tape will leave behind a residue that you don't want. Both, especially used in conjunction with each other is really your best option(s).

Hyde glue does have an advantage over the norm glue, it will "give" with the wood as it moves. Unfortunately, it doesn't have the strength as the reg. glues have. I would like to point out though, it DOES have it's uses. All glues have their pro's & con's. 

HTH


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

Read this 
Hot hide glue

I used it or a little bit and then stop using it and now I know why I didn't like it, I have a open pot and now I'm going to get a cover pot..

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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ken
> 
> Read this
> Hot hide glue
> ...



I guess it just proves I'm way behind in the times. :yes4:

I do know that certain hide glues, will "give" to allow for wood movement but, doesn't have the "shear" strength of normal wood glue does. Perhaps it's just in the formulation of making it. I guess I'll be "sticking" with my 3 fav's, Elmers, Gorilla glue and Titebond.


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> I guess it just proves I'm way behind in the times. :yes4:
> 
> I do know that certain hide glues, will "give" to allow for wood movement but, doesn't have the "shear" strength of normal wood glue does. Perhaps it's just in the formulation of making it. I guess I'll be "sticking" with my 3 fav's, Elmers, Gorilla glue and Titebond.


Hide glue has some interesting properties for a glue

1) No creep. At least in the sense that any movement allowed in a joint is due to the spring/flex of the wood fibers and NOT the glue. PVA glues, Tightbond III for example, can allow a joint to move over time (flat, non-locking joints). This is great for veneering applications or other precision assemblies.

2) Strength. Yes, hide glue is "weaker" than PVA and epoxy formulations. But it has a unique property in that it will bond with glass. It must be highly refined hide glue (no fat or large proteins). Spread a thin coat on the glass and let it dry, as the glue drys it will pull and chip the glass surface! Textured crackle glass can be made this way. PVA won't do that. Also a slick way to do crackle paint on faux antiques.

3) Reversible. Easily reversed with heat and moisture. Good for repair and restoration work. PVAs and epoxies can be reversed but much more difficult.

4) Sticks to itself. A joint or section of veneer can be repaired without removing the old glue. Well, not quite true, you should at least smooth it down so it won't be lumpy and bumpy later. But that is a cosmetic reason, not a chemical reason. PVA doesn't bond well to old PVA. Epoxy to epoxy can work for compatible types but you need to rough up the old stuff to key it.

5) Hot hide glue (not the liquid stuff) forms much of its bond strength as it cools. You can form joints without clamps. Veneering and rub joints. Fast and efficient. But also a drawback because if it is cold in the shop, you loose nearly all your working (open) time.

6) Open time for liquid formulations is very long, as long or longer than type III PVAs. For a complicated joint this is handy. It can also be a liability.

7) Interference with oil finishes is minimal. The important thing is to remove the globs and squeeze-out first because it does dry with a darker color. Good, tight joints are important to minimize any glue line visibility. I've read but not seen for myself that hide glue can blotch under water based finishes. They may be due to the glue "re-activating" due to the water in the finish?


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

There is some great information in this thread and I greatly appreciate everyone's expierience and comments on the subject. I'll be referring back to this thread over time.


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