# Need a router bit



## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

Hi guys, I have a bit of a problem. My bother in laws kitchen needs repairs and I got into the job. I need to build 3 drawers. The old ones are gone. I have the below pictures of the profile I need but for the life of me, I can not find the bit that would cut them.
Sorry the pictures are a bit( no pun intended) blurry. I will try to explain what I need. 
The edges form a 1/8th inch ledger on the front of the drawers, the edge of the drawer is cut back and under to form a finger pull area at about 7 degrees. and rounded over. It is really a simple cut, but I can't seem to find the bit or bits that would cut this. Hope some one can look at this differently and tell me what I need.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Dave if all else fails do it with several bits and sand to finish. I'm thinking you can cut the bevel on a TS if you have to and then round over the edges and sand a little to smooth out the profile. The difference between being perfect and looking perfect can be a lot of grief at times. Sometimes old school is more efficient.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I think Charles has the right idea. Much of the cut can be made either with a couple of router bits, or on the table saw with either sanding or using a hand plane to refine the shape.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Is this one close enough...after cutting the 1/8" off...?

Finger-pull door-lip bit, #FRD 99-065


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Dave if all else fails do it with several bits and sand to finish. I'm thinking you can cut the bevel on a TS if you have to and then round over the edges and sand a little to smooth out the profile. The difference between being perfect and looking perfect can be a lot of grief at times. Sometimes old school is more efficient.


After I had posted this, I looked over the pictures again and I too thought that if I cut the bevel with the TS I could sand it out to the proper shape. and since I only have 3 of these to make, that should work. Thanks Charles.


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

Nickp said:


> Is this one close enough...after cutting the 1/8" off...?
> 
> Finger-pull door-lip bit, #FRD 99-065


This one is very close. But, I would still have to cut the 1/8 inch bead on the fronts.
and for 60 or 70m dollars for the bit, that I may never use again, I think the idea of the table saw may be the way to go. 
My brother in law says the cabinets were from sears over 30 years ago. So they may have had some special set up to make them back then. They do not have knobs on them, which I will try to talk them into letting me install.
Thanks for the idea, Nick.
David


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

This whole project began with my brother in law asking me how to fix the broken sheet rock wall at the side of the refrigerator. I drove over and looked at it and it seems that they have a 36 inch double upper door refrigerator in a 36 inch space between cabinets on one side and the sheet rock wall on the other. When ever they opened the left hand door, it pressed on the sheet rock and bent it inward. It finally just cracked. Plus there was no way to open the doors wide enough to remove the shelves for cleaning. We moved the refrigerator to another spot in the kitchen and will install a bakers shelve in the space. All is well.
Thanks for the fast ideas guys.
David


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

DesertRatTom said:


> I think Charles has the right idea. Much of the cut can be made either with a couple of router bits, or on the table saw with either sanding or using a hand plane to refine the shape.


Yes Tom, I think the TS is the way to go, and only having to make 3 drawer fronts to match, that will be the cheaper way to go too.
Thanks for the idea.
David


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

...add a roundover bit to the table saw mix and save some sanding time...?


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## prgl7 (Jun 26, 2011)

You might try the Freud bit or Whiteside Door Edge Router Bit 1-1/2" Large Diameter 7/8" Cut Length 1/2" Shank 2 Flute
Whiteside Door Edge Router Bit 1-1/2" Large Diameter 7/8" Cut Length 1/2" Shank 2 Flute
Product ID : 6015. You might just set the front face to cut shallow and it should come out similar. At one time I was told that to reproduce exactly is very expensive. you might want to find out who made the cabinets and just order replacement drawer panels.


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

prgl7 said:


> You might try the Freud bit or Whiteside Door Edge Router Bit 1-1/2" Large Diameter 7/8" Cut Length 1/2" Shank 2 Flute
> Whiteside Door Edge Router Bit 1-1/2" Large Diameter 7/8" Cut Length 1/2" Shank 2 Flute
> Product ID : 6015. You might just set the front face to cut shallow and it should come out similar. At one time I was told that to reproduce exactly is very expensive. you might want to find out who made the cabinets and just order replacement drawer panels.


Thanks for your help George. But, I think I will go with the table saw to cut the angle and then sand it to fit the original profile.
They were made over 25 years ago and sold by Sears. I can have them made and installed before getting them ordered. But thanks for the ideas.
David


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

Nickp said:


> ...add a roundover bit to the table saw mix and save some sanding time...?


I was looking at that idea too. Thanks Nick.
David


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

As a follow up to my bit problem. I went ahead and used my TS to make all the cuts then did a lot of sanding, They turned out just fine.
I did learn that if you try to build drawers by long distance. (I got the measurements over the phone) then attempt to fit them, they are not going to work. Mine turned out to be too wide due to me forgetting to account for the drawer slides. I had to knock them apart at the job site and then cut them down. But they finally fit and everyone was happy. 
Thanks for all the ideas guys.
David


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