# Micro Adjust For A Band Saw



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

From time to time I have gone on line to see if there might be a micro adjust for a Band Saw and all that I have found so far are fences that deal with "blade drift". Blade drift does not exist on a band saw that is set up as per the "Alex Snodgrass" method. What I have looked for is an adjustment for the position of the fence in relationship to the blade. I have been spoiled by my Incra LS TS system on my TS.

Just am wondering if I am alone in this pursuit and if not, has anyone come up with some way to make the fine adjusments that are often needed or at least desired when using a BS.

Jerry B.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Kreg: https://www.kregtool.com/store/c41/routing-accessories/p89/micro-adjuster/

Made to work with the Kreg BS fence, but it's 1/4" x 20 threads so it can be adapted to work with jigs and fixtures pretty easily. I've got one on my BS fence, and another that i pull out when i'm improvising a solution to something else.

You do a preleminary set of the BS fence, with both the fence and micro adjuster locked down, then loosen the fence and move the adjuster the appropriate amount on the ruler, then re-tighten the fence. (when the BS fence is loosened, it skews a bit until it's tightened again, so i can't use the fence to blade distance to micro adjust, but the Kreg scale is good contrast (black on white, i find it easier than the Incra scales) so you may find it fairly usable with no adaptation Jerry. 

I'm sure there are others out there, but i do like this one.

earl


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

I think a micro-adjust or any way to accurately adjust to compensate on a bandsaw... is a good thing and makes things easier. I have to keep reminding myself that measurements on a bandsaw are not static. The zero is subjective to drift (this is meant to start further discussions saying yes or no, but read the notes below first) and therefore should need some kind of adjustment to compensate.

A bandsaw blade can move laterally. It has a _flexible_ blade. As a hobbiest, where things change from day to day, from morning to afternoon, Things change. Once you change blades, speed or touch any of your guides in any way to make a dynamic adjustment... where that blade rides has changed. Just except that is how it is and adjust from that.

A bandsaw is not a Tablesaw or Router Table where the blade is exactly where you left it 2 weeks ago, the last time you used it. Even pushing on the workpiece differently than yesterday on the same workpiece will cause the blade to cut differently. No matter what you do, you will still have some kind of "drift" that you have to adjust for, by what the classical Physics definition of that is... It is how you compensate for that... (and other things)

We started this conversation so lets talk about it. (honestly wanting to talk about this more) So a question back might be:
*What will help you be consistent on a bandsaw?* I have an idea of what that is in my mind... But I'll reserve that until others have a chance.

EDIT-- We as members keep discussing this on hobbyist type bandsaws. But I don't think people understand that that for them, it isn't something that you can set one day... and be through with those adjustments from then on.
(I believe that the techniques learned from this will make you more consistent on other tooling.)


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

MAFoElffen said:


> But, I have to keep in mind:
> Measurements on a bandsaw are not static. The zero is subjective to drift (this is meant to start further discussions saying yes or no, but read the notes below first) and therefore should need some kind of adjustment to compensate.
> 
> Notes:
> ...


Let's see if I can be more clear on what I would like to be able to do with the adjusting mechanism. First of all, I would not for example what to be able to to just set the fence to make a pre-determined cut, I'm talking about for example to be able to set the fence at three inches and make a cut on a workpiece that is three inches as one can do on a TS.


Lets say that I want to cut a piece two inches wide and I just estimate the setting of the the fence and after making a cut I find that I'm off 1/12" and need to move the fence closer to the blade. Now I do have a scale on the saw but I don't like it very much. I'd like to be able to just sneak up on the cut using the micro adjuster until I am getting what I'm after. That's all I am talking about. As it is, I have to just keep tapping the fence and cutting a trial cut until I get close to what I need. Pretty simple request comparted to anything near the LS concept. A simple jig with a thraded bolt of some kind that would move the fence a few thous at a time as it is slowly turned would work. Hope that clears things up. I probpably could make the jig, Just am wondering what others have done or what may be available to buy.

Jerry B.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Lets say that I want to cut a piece two inches wide and I just estimate the setting of the the fence and after making a cut I find that I'm off 1/12" and need to move the fence closer to the blade. Now I do have a scale on the saw but I don't like it very much. I'd like to be able to just sneak up on the cut using the micro adjuster until I am getting what I'm after. That's all I am talking about. As it is, I have to just keep tapping the fence and cutting a trial cut until I get close to what I need. Pretty simple request comparted to anything near the LS concept. A simple jig with a thraded bolt of some kind that would move the fence a few thous at a time as it is slowly turned would work. Hope that clears things up. I probpably could make the jig, Just am wondering what others have done or what may be available to buy.
> 
> Jerry B.


(I thought that was were that first post was going...)
Now that is not going to happen with a bandsaw.

The physics of that is not there to make that possible. What happens is that 1/12" (0.08") is less than the thickness of the blade. That is hard enough to do with a somewhat solid blade, but a bandsaw blade is flexible. (but within 0.08" on wood is more than _acceptable_ and can be sanded down, planed or jointed quickly for if it really need to be adjusted that small a difference.)

--> It starts cutting, the teeth touch the work on part of the teeth (the inside edge), with nothing on the outside edge. The flexible blade moves away from the resistance... The blade starts drifting and twisting away from the workpiece. 

You can see the plot of what follows happening right? You can't make a few thousandths correction on a bandsaw for an edge cut trimming. That is hard enough and you still get some deflection with a circular saw blade trying to do that.

For larger adjustments, what you can do is to start (scribe with the running blade) the start of your cut very lightly (just eenough to see where it hits)... seeing that with the running blade, if off, that you need to compensate somehow, use something such as a micro-adjust to make your compensation... to correct where your cut should be. Otherwise, you need some way to make that adjustment for that compensation, from where you were, to where you think you need to be. That is why a micro-adjuster on a bandsaw does not need fine threads. Thousandths of an inch corrections are a moot point with a flexible blade.

There are other factors (your posts on bandsaws in the last few months prompt some other things that go along with this and those). Would you like to talk about them also?


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## denis lock (Oct 26, 2007)

It is totally unrealistic to expect to get that degree of accuracy from a bandsaw. Look to your table saw and router table for this type of result.

Denis Lock - Routing with Denis - Home


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

denis.lock said:


> It is totally unrealistic to expect to get that degree of accuracy from a bandsaw. Look to your table saw and router table for this type of result.
> 
> Denis Lock - Routing with Denis - Home



I'm not trying to be a SnER A, but I do think that it is extremely realistic to want to have the accuracy that I have asked about, and is a very realistic expectation, or at least a wish, otherwise I would not have asked, however, I do agree and understand that what you and Mike have said that attaining that level of accuracy is indeed unrealistic the for reasons described. 

How ever, if one were to make several cuts with the fence in the same position to see what the variation in the cuts is due to the way a band saw blade is deflected, then have an adjustment that would work within that the range of the variation seems to me to be practical. For example, let's suppose that after making several cuts that it is determined that the variation is .050". I don't know what the variation is right now as I have done the test. But I'm thinking is that it would be nice to be able to set the fence so that a person would know that the cut would be within those tolerances with the first cut.. 

I have not, for some reason, attempted to use the scale on the saw. Part of the reason for this is that with the re-saw fence installed the scale cannot be zeroed and one would have to deal with the off set error all of the time or remove the re-saw fence. I need to do some checking on the accuracy of that scale.

In my own defense, I do believe that asking questions and digesting the answers to the questions leads to one's knowledge and one's approach to dealing with issues and being able to wring out, in this case the BS, the very most that one can get from a machine. 

To just say "hey bud what you are asking is unreasonable" while true, just challenges me to do reseach on the matter and see what is possible and to be able to work within the limits of the BS. 

Recently I logged off of the forum and was asked why by one of the monerators why I had done so. My answer was that I felt that that I was asking to many dumb questions but after some re-thinking of the issue and missing reading the theads and posts, I have come back on and will just coniue to ask my question which do often make me look some what ignorance which I certainly am, but ignorance is the same as stupid of course and I have to keep reminding myself of that. 

I do appreciate the posts to my questions, that's what makes the forum so great.

Jerry B.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Jerry Bowen said:


> For example, let's suppose that after making several cuts that it is determined that the variation is .050". I don't know what the variation is right now as I have done the test. But I'm thinking is that it would be nice to be able to set the fence so that a person would know that the cut would be within those tolerances with the first cut..


With metal, tolerances that close are possible, even desirable. With wood, it ain't happening. And, even if it did happen, wood moves, metal doesn't.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

JOAT said:


> With metal, tolerances that close are possible, even desirable. With wood, it ain't happening. And, even if it did happen, wood moves, metal doesn't.


On the contrary, metal moves to, but nearly to the extent as wood does. Wood moves not only from changes in temperature, but also humidity, I think that it is only termperature that changes metal. Theo, I know that I'm nit picking, bear with me.

Jerry


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Jerry, I think your question is valid, and I think it is possible to expect a given tolerance for re-sawing a given species of wood. I have found that re-sawing pine is harder to set the blade at 1/4" when re-sawing a 3-1/2" x 10" and have it come out at 1/4"+.030" so I can plane it to finish size. I also found that re-sawing hard maple to that tolerance IS possible and it accually slices easier and faster and is repeatable. I found that a steady feed from beginning to end of the cut is needed and constant contact with the fence is needed while feeding. I use a push block made from a 2X4 about 12" long with a rear lip attached that extends about 1/4" (similar to a table saw push block) to keep fence pressure while pushing the wood thru the blade. I have measured the results and found and expect variance of about .030" using an olson 4 tpi hook tooth 1/2" blade. I don't have a fancy fence, just a fence made from laminated flooring scraps that I clamp to the table. One thing I found to help is to wax the table and fence with beez wax. I don't think I could keep those tolerances on a long board unless a longer fence was used. If a micro adjuster is available I would try it! Good luck.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Good post Gary. You started to touch on what I was hinting on.

There are tools that come to mind as being "the right tool for the job." For small accurate, repeatable cuts-- the right tool for the job that comes to my mind would be a miter saw.

But back to bandsaws: Being it has a flexible blade, It is a tool that if I need to trim something to a rough size either close or freeform, I am guilty of it being my first go-to choice. Walk up, turn it on and cut. 

I love it. There are so many things I can do with a bandsaw, by eye or with jigs. But again, the setup is quick and I'll allow that it will not be exactly on. But for those things, I don't care about that. Mind you, before I had a bandsaw, I was fighting and struggling with using other tools to make those cuts, that _are_ possible and easier with a bandsaw.

I realistically except that a bandsaw does not have within thousandths repeatable accuracy, and that there is the potential for it not to be dead-on consistent. But there are things that help working with it be more accurate and consist.

Like Jerry and Gary stated to touch on, setup/adjustment is prime. Next with Gary, technique and consistency in HOW you feed and consistency in your feed rates. Then as Gary mentioned, the medium is wood. Grain and density does effect there cuts. The flexible blade will want to follow the path of least resistance, which is to follow the grain. (<-- lower feedrates helps with that)

I know that Jerry can do that. He has. When he is in the groove and things are setup with the right blades (the guides adjusted to them) , he can re-saw veneers that have my admiration. When he strays and tries to do things with blades "differently" then he wonders why things are not working the same. Well, they are just not the same and things don't work out that way sometimes. As one of my mentors would say to me when things did not work out: "That is to be expected."


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I have the Kreg micro adjuster and their fence system on a 14 inch Delta. With a half inch blade, I can cut fairly straight, but I have to fiddle with the tension to do it. The micro adjuster really doesn't have much to do with drift, that is the angle of the fence and blade tension. Rockler also has a micro adjuster meant for a router table, and I suspect it would be pretty easy to adapt as well. I have Carter guides on the Delta which help with accuracy. But then, I'm not resawing more than 5-6 inch stock. I'm looking at a Laguna saw with their cool blocks and their 3/4 resaw king blade. There is some mighty fine wood out there and I'm really getting interested in cutting and curing some interesting stock for boxes and veneers.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

DesertRatTom said:


> I have the Kreg micro adjuster and their fence system on a 14 inch Delta. With a half inch blade, I can cut fairly straight, but I have to fiddle with the tension to do it. The micro adjuster really doesn't have much to do with drift, that is the angle of the fence and blade tension. Rockler also has a micro adjuster meant for a router table, and I suspect it would be pretty easy to adapt as well. I have Carter guides on the Delta which help with accuracy. But then, I'm not re-sawing more than 5-6 inch stock. I'm looking at a Laguna saw with their cool blocks and their 3/4 resaw king blade. There is some mighty fine wood out there and I'm really getting interested in cutting and curing some interesting stock for boxes and veneers.


I keep hearing hear very good things about their bandsaws from their owners.

I basically have the same saw as yours (14" import). Mine has cool blocks, that I use for most sized blades, then a Carter guide for 1/8" blades.

I've had a watch out for the other Carter guide set for mine, for the other sized blades. Ralph really likes that guide set on his Delta. (He was the one that got me back into bandsaws.) I think that guide set will get me where I want to be with that. Meaning, I'm not sure I'm really sold on cool-blocks. I like the design of Carter's guides... and I think it will help with my saw's short-comings... to the point where I want to be with a bandsaw in my shop, for what I do...


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

What is a "Cool Block Guide" and how does if different from a bearing guide?

Jerry B.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Jerry Bowen said:


> On the contrary, metal moves to, but nearly to the extent as wood does. Wood moves not only from changes in temperature, but also humidity, I think that it is only termperature that changes metal. Theo, I know that I'm nit picking, bear with me.
> 
> Jerry


Yes, you are nit picking. I am well aware that metal can move, but not for most practical uses, and certainly not in comparison to wood. Measure a nail, or other metal, from day to day, in your shop. Then measure a piece of wood from day to day in your shop. The metal measurements, if any, aren't going to be significant enough to verify any movement - that would take a lab, with very expensive equipment. But you can quite possibly verify the changes in the wood movement with tools available to you. Trying to cut wood to .050 tolerance is basically a waste of time and effort. But if trying to do it anyway floats your boat, then have at it.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

O.K., guys, I just ran a test. I took a piece of white oak that was about 3/8" thick and five inches long. I made ten rip cuts and the variation was 005" at the starting end of the cuts and closer .008" at the end of them, this taper was probably due to my inability to keep cinstant pressure on while making the cuts. My table saw won't cut any closer that that. Soooo, what gives with our discussion. I'm not saying that I can just set the fence for a given cut like one can do with he LS system on the TS, but the ability to sneak up on a cut with a micro adjust seems to be feasible. I'm waiting for your comments.

Jerry B.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> What is a "Cool Block Guide" and how does if different from a bearing guide?


Cool Block Guides, like those sold by Olson are "Graphite Impregnated Phenolic Laminate" blocks that the blade can run on as a bearing surface, instead of a metallic bearing. Laguna uses ceramic blocks. I've seen DIY blocks made from lignum vitae. Less friction, less heat.

People use lubes to reduce that friction even more. Some use PAM or wax. I use those wax double saw lube sticks.

I have my eye on a Carter multi-bearing guide set. I know the heat will be more, but I think the support will be better for larger blades with that set. I may be wrong and just wasting my money going backwards, but it's one of those things where I think I need to try it myself and see. Or maybe someone here has already compared those and can save me that money if I am wrong with that?


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> O.K., guys, I just ran a test. I took a piece of white oak that was about 3/8" thick and five inches long. I made ten rip cuts and the variation was 005" at the starting end of the cuts and closer .008" at the end of them, this taper was probably due to my inability to keep cinstant pressure on while making the cuts. My table saw won't cut any closer that that. Soooo, what gives with our discussion. I'm not saying that I can just set the fence for a given cut like one can do with he LS system on the TS, but the ability to sneak up on a cut with a micro adjust seems to be feasible. I'm waiting for your comments.
> 
> Jerry B.


That's was against the fence right? That was good.

Next logical test would be to use your miter gauge with a stop block. Using a stop block is a way to get the most consistency for multiple cuts (bandsaw, miter saw, table saw).

Stop blocks- this is one place where a micro-adjust starts falling into place. not in trying to split hairs on an already cut piece (which may have to be sanded down into finished size), but to dial it in for that next cut. (Repeatable consistency.)


Then for micro-adjusters, you have the t-slot type (such as the Kreg) for a fence with a t-slot --or-- a the mag-lock type for using to kick a fence over. Both can be re-used on other tooling, not just what they were designed originally for.

EDIT-- So in this thread we've talked about set fences (such as rip fences and router fences are), sliding fences (which covers sliding, miter gauge or cross-cut fences and sleds), stop blocks and micro-adjusters. Those same thngs can be found and the techniques crossed-over to use on other tooling with those types of fences and controls. (I promised I would be that full-circle.) Then you have combo systems, such as the Incra super-system that use both fences in combination with each other. The same things techniques can be said, if you are using a sliding fence with a stop block.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

MAFoElffen said:


> That's was against the fence right? That was good.
> 
> Next logical test would be to use your miter gauge with a stop block. Using a stop block is a way to get the most consistency for multiple cuts (bandsaw, miter saw, table saw).
> 
> ...


Yes Mike,
The cuts were made against the fence and just fed through the cut with my fingers. Frankly I was very surprised at the results due to what was being said about it be impossible or at least not practical. I've been out in the shop this after noon make a jig and used the band saw to cut two three sided rectangular opeinin in the edge of board. The openings are about one inch by two inches. I cut them on the BS and made both of them very close to the same size make some clean up cuts that were less than half of the width of the BS blade. I am really happy that I'm learning how accurate the BS is when you really try to make fine cuts with it.

Catch you later,

Jerry


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Jerry Bowen said:


> What is a "Cool Block Guide" and how does if different from a bearing guide?
> 
> Jerry B.


O.K., the obvious question is. sooooo. What's the advantage of these Coo Block Guides? Heck, I won't know unless I ask, so I'm asking.

Also, I have not gotten any response after making my claim of the test results, makes me wonder if I am believed or not since what I found seems to defy what I was told. I'd like for some of you have and use band saws to try the same test and reveal your results.

Jerry


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## denis lock (Oct 26, 2007)

Wood does expand and contract with change in temperature - the amount, however is negligible:

Wood expands by 0,0004% of its length per Centigrade degree change 
Wood expands by 0,004% of its width per Centigrade degree change

Wood changes size by significant amounts due to change in humidity.

Check the following website: The Shrinkulator

A change in temperature is often accompanied by a change in humidity and it is incorrectly assumed that it is the temperature change that causes the wood movement.

Denis Lock - Routing with Denis - Home

A


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Cutting wood to much less than .050 tolerance is done all the time. Table saw probably cuts closer ±.004 (or 1/256). 4 mils (.004) can make a difference in a miter joint.

I don't think band saw blade drift is much of an issue on shorter cuts (18 inches or less) if the fence is set up properly to account for drift. I don't see why you couldn't get ±.004 tolerance on a band saw cut with good setup, the right blade and proper technique.


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## firstmuller (Aug 28, 2014)

This is a very informative. I just bought a 14" sears bans saw at a auction this weekend for $50. What is the "Ales Snodgress" way to set up the band saw as talked about in the begin?
Thanks
Allen


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

RJM60 said:


> Cutting wood to much less than .050 tolerance is done all the time. Table saw probably cuts closer ±.004 (or 1/256). 4 mils (.004) can make a difference in a miter joint.
> 
> I don't think band saw blade drift is much of an issue on shorter cuts (18 inches or less) if the fence is set up properly to account for drift. I don't see why you couldn't get ±.004 tolerance on a band saw cut with good setup, the right blade and proper technique.



Robert,

I posted that it was very easy to keep a tolerance of .005" without even trying, I agree with you that .004" is very attainable. For the work that I have done to date I have yet needed resaw anything longer than 24" and I have had only a few thous of variation from one end of the cut to the other and the error cleans up quickly with the planer. 

It is still some what of a mystery to me why other member say that such accuracy is not possible with a band saw and therefore a micro adjust would not be practical.

Jerry B.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Look it up at Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

DesertRatTom said:


> Look it up at Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube



Thanks Tom, I'm very aware of what Alex teaches, that's why my saw performs the way that it does. A DVD of Alex's teaching should be standare equipment with the sale of any band saw, just my thinking that may or may not be what other people think.

Jerry B.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Thanks Tom, I'm very aware of what Alex teaches, that's why my saw performs the way that it does. A DVD of Alex's teaching should be standare equipment with the sale of any band saw, just my thinking that may or may not be what other people think.
> 
> Jerry B.


Jerry- 
Rein it back a bit. No need to be defensive, offensive nor gun shy. Tom was just answering Allen's post (who _had_ asked about who Alex was), not your post. 

Allen- 
That link is also in it's own sticky in the main Tools and Woodworking Section- Stickys.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Thanks Tom, I'm very aware of what Alex teaches, that's why my saw performs the way that it does. A DVD of Alex's teaching should be standare equipment with the sale of any band saw, just my thinking that may or may not be what other people think.
> 
> Jerry B.



Mike,

Sorry about that, I had not read Allen's post. I thought that the post was a bit strange. I understand why you, Mike, said what you did to me.

Jerry


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Alright folks, here goes. I have an old, what some consider POS, 12 inch Craftsman band saw. I did some resawing with it back earlier this year. It is set up by the Snodgrass method with new stock bearing guides.The cuts were made with a 1/4"X 6 tooth Olson blade. The results are in the photos. There is virtually no drift in this old saw ripping or resawing, so don't tell me it can't be done. The cuts were made in poplar because of the cost of hardwood here in west Texas, and the fact that I had it on hand. The sled/guide/jig I used is really easy to make and I will post the video for that.

Beating bandsaw table drift - YouTube

Dick


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Now to the original question of a micro adjust for the band saw fence. This can easily be done by adding threaded rod adjusters in each end of your existing fence. You would have to add a sub fence for the threaded rods to move but that should be no problem at all.

Dick


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## firstmuller (Aug 28, 2014)

Thanks for the info on the BS adjustment.
Allen


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## denis lock (Oct 26, 2007)

Like other materials wood expands when heated and contracts when cooled. The amount, however, is negligible:

Wood expands by 0,0004% of its length per Centigrade degree change.

Wood expands by 0,004% of its width per Centigrade degree change.

Change in relative humidity associated with temperature change will cause shrinkage or swelling that far overshadows expansion and contraction. Visit the following website:

Google 'Shrinkulator' to see estimates of shrinkage/expansion due to RH change.

Denis Lock, South Africa


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Willway said:


> Now to the original question of a micro adjust for the band saw fence. This can easily be done by adding threaded rod adjusters in each end of your existing fence. You would have to add a sub fence for the threaded rods to move but that should be no problem at all.
> 
> Dick


Denis,
There is no doubt about what you have explained about the expansion and contraction of wood. It's as true as is the fact that the sun comes up in the east.

I also know that I have been tagged on this forum as a person that tries to work with wood in tolerances that are closer than what is practical with wood. 

I have excepted all of this but still tend to want go there even though I know that about myself. My thinking however is this. If a person works in as close of tolerances as he or she can and then when the temperature or humidity causes the wood to shrink or expand, it seems to me that the entire project would expand or shrink keeping the fit of the pieces relative close. 

The real issue or problem, as I see it, has to do with the changes that occur across grain are not the same as those that occur with the grain. Compensating for this has to be done and has been explained in detail by Bill, one of the monerators of the forum for which I am very grateful.

I still am of the opinion that the parts for a project should be cut within as close to perfect tolerances as possible in order to get the best fit as is possible and as close to perfect to start with before the temperature and/or humidity effects the wood. 

Keeping the cuts close just gives me the feeling of having done the best that I can. It has something to do with self image I suppose. Kinda like shining one's shoes I guess. 

I do wish that my skills matched my expectations, and I believe that one's skills only increase when he or she keeps trying to do their better and not excepting what ever one's skill levels are at anytime. This challenge is what makes woodworking interesting to me, we need to keep in mind that each of the members of this forum is unique. There is, in my opinion anyway, only one thing that all of us must agree on and that has to do with being safe and using techniques that are safe.

Jerry B.


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Ditto!


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## billg71 (Mar 25, 2011)

Here you go, Jerry:

Laguna Driftmaster fence system

1/16"/revolution of the handle, you can sneak up to your heart's content. Installation can be a real bear, not nearly as easy as the guy in the video makes it out to be but it does work well.

HTH,
Bill


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

billg71 said:


> Here you go, Jerry:
> 
> Laguna Driftmaster fence system
> 
> ...


Thanks Bill,
I'll be looking into the tool. Sounds interesting and thank you. Apparently others, not just myself has seen a need for such a tool. I am not concerned about drift but the adjustment of the fence position is of interest to me.

Jerry


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Thanks Bill,
> I'll be looking into the tool. Sounds interesting and thank you. Apparently others, not just myself has seen a need for such a tool. I am not concerned about drift but the adjustment of the fence position is of interest to me.
> 
> Jerry


Just a tad spendy for me at $409. 

Jerry B.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

To my mind, a band saw is a rough cutting tool with no need for micro adjust.

Ultra fine adjustments would be done with hand tools......or sanding.

Horses for courses, as they say....


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

jw2170 said:


> To my mind, a band saw is a rough cutting tool with no need for micro adjust.
> 
> Ultra fine adjustments would be done with hand tools......or sanding.
> 
> Horses for courses, as they say....


James,
The Lord knows that you indeed entitled to your opinion, as you say in your mind it's a certain way. I do not believe that you are implying that I am sounding foolish for expressing my thinking about the matter are you? It's just your opinion as is my opinion mine.

Jerry B.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Jerry Bowen said:


> James,
> The Lord knows that you indeed entitled to your opinion, as you say in your mind it's a certain way. I do not believe that you are implying that I am sounding foolish for expressing my thinking about the matter are you? It's just your opinion as is my opinion mine.
> 
> Jerry B.


Jerry, I am not implying anything. I understand your attitude to micro measurement and I am just saying that, in my opinion, that band saw was not designed as a tool for that degree of accuracy for reasons explained above.

If you feel that I made it sound like you were foolish, that is not my intention.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

jw2170 said:


> Jerry, I am not implying anything. I understand your attitude to micro measurement and I am just saying that, in my opinion, that band saw was not designed as a tool for that degree of accuracy for reasons explained above.
> 
> If you feel that I made it sound like you were foolish, that is not my intention.


James,
I think that my error was using thet term "Micro Adjust", What I should have said is to devise a means by which to be able to move the fence without having to hit or tap it with one's hand, just have a little more control. Does that make more sense to you ?

Jerry


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

jw2170 said:


> Jerry, I am not implying anything. I understand your attitude to micro measurement and I am just saying that, in my opinion, that band saw was not designed as a tool for that degree of accuracy for reasons explained above.
> 
> If you feel that I made it sound like you were foolish, that is not my intention.


I sent a PM to James about something and now I think that I should have posted it to this thread. I told James that my mistake was that I used the term "Micro Adjust" which was a poor choice in words. What I am or was driving is a means to be able to move the fence in some more sophisticated manner other than tapping it backward or forward with my fist or palm of my hand. That just seems a bit crude comparared to a way to move it slowly with some sort of a crank. I suppose that the micro adjust on the LS system has spoiled me. The fence on the BS is pretty heavy and does not glide at all and takes some effort to move it compared to the fence on the TS LS which glides so easily. Maybe this explanation will clear things up a bit, I hope so. I can see why the using the term micro adjust was not really appropriate now.

Jerry B.


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## billg71 (Mar 25, 2011)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Just a tad spendy for me at $409.
> 
> Jerry B.


You didn't say anything about price, Jerry. But it's well worth the cost.

Think of it as an Incra fence for your bandsaw...

Best,
Bill


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Jerry,

Did not receive your PM, but no mind.
.

There are many YouTube videos on making band saw fences which allow for the adjustment you require.

Check out some of those, and you may be able to make one at very low cost.

http://youtu.be/rpbwH9510MY

PS, also in one of Bill Hylton's router books, he shows how to make a micro-adjuster for a table saw fence. This should also work for the band saw.


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## lenh (Feb 27, 2009)

You might be able to figure out a way to make this work. Hardly ideal, but for infrequent use...

Table Saw Fence Micro Adjuster w/Magnet - Rockler Woodworking Tools


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

In talking with the guys at Laguna, they said the resaw blade was also an issue. Most blades have offset teeth, left, right, left. Their Resaw King blade with carbide tips do not alternate like this, so you get less tendency to drift. Even then, almost any piece you run through a band saw still needs jointing or planing or both. At least that's what I've observed. (A buddy just bought the 220v Laguna saw with the Driftmaster fence and their 1 inch Resaw King blade. Haven't really spoken with him about it yet, but that's about as precise as you're going to get anything on a bandsaw so far as I can tell. My own Delta assuredly isn't in the Laguna's league.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Tom- My interpretation of the blade part of that... is just the difference between HS blades and carbide blades. Basically with HS blades, you have an offset to the teeth. You have 3 off-set patterns- alternate-set, raker-set and wavy-set patterns. With carbide blades, the teeth are inline (no offset) with the face angle of the teeth varied. Because of this, with bandsaw carbide blades, having an inline set makes them a thin-kerf design. There are also carbide toothed designs where where the teeth are thick. In both designs, each teeth has full contact across the kerf.

When you have a rule of thumb of 3-5 teeth in the work at a time, in a thin piece of work with a 14 tpi to 6 tpi blade, the teeth are close enough together, that there isn't much deflection between the set in the teeth to amount to much. But using a skip tooth blade of 1 to 1.5 tpi, an offset tooth can deflect that part of the blade... Skip tooth carbide blades stay more centered in a kerf while cutting.

Is that enough info to understand that? Their explanation was weighted. It's not solely about the brand <--> it's more about the design.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Mike,
Thank you for directing the dialog. This has been an informative thread. In applying what I learned.
¹. Let the saw do the work, blades are flexible.
2. It is not a finish tool
3. There sure are a lot of high priced gadgets


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Recently visited Laguna and got some lessons in resaw blades. If you use a blade with staggered teeth, you are almost certain to get some drift. Their Resaw King has the teeth set straight so there is less side to side pressure. That and a wide blade really increase the accuracy, with blade tension being a big factor as well. Their 14-12 saw has a max of 3/4 wide blade while their larger saws can handle one inch width. My present bandsaw (Delta 14 inch with about a 6 inch throat) just cannot handle a larger blade. Resaw blades are generally stiffer or thicker than general purpose blades, so by the time you've tensioned them, you've also stressed them on a smaller saw. Which is why the 3/4 width limit on the very affordable 14-12. With a high end band saw, I think you can get pretty close, but not perfect. Watched a video of Laguna's owner doing some resawing on what I bet was a perfectly set up saw with 1 inch blade, and even then jointing or planing was needed.

I like the idea of using an hand plane because of the finish it leaves, but my vision makes it very difficult to set the blade correctly. Just bought a small tool advertised on Woodpeckers, I believe, that stradles the mouth of the plane and gives very precise readings on blade edge exposure and parallel with the sole. Very slow mail, so I don't have it yet, but I'll post something about this device. My planes are set up well, but this blade edge exposure thing has been really frustrating. There is no cheap source of hardwood here, so I hate messing anything up...I hope this new device helps.

The wife just OKd a new finishing shed for me, so the new bandsaw has to wait a bit. I'm thinking of getting the 220 model with the 1 inch resaw blade. I guess I can use the electric dryer circuit in the garage to run it. Have a retired electrician living across the street, he can set me straight on wiring.

Interesting thread.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Jerry Bowen said:


> James,
> I think that my error was using thet term "Micro Adjust", What I should have said is to devise a means by which to be able to move the fence without having to hit or tap it with one's hand, just have a little more control. Does that make more sense to you ?
> 
> Jerry


Jerry sometimes getting a fence or other fixture to move smoothly is as simple as picking the right spot to apply force. Since fences lock against the rail they slide on then that is the best place to push on them. I put my hand on the rail and move the end of the fence with my thumb and it moves easily and controllably. Maybe try a different technique first Jerry.


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

*Micro Fence for Bandsaw Re-Sawing Solved!*

I want to thank Jerry Bowen for the lively post about a micro fence for a band saw. I have made a fence that can dial in cuts very accurately. This is what I did after many private messages with Jerry. You still have to account for drift like you would with any fence. It is important to start re-sawing with straight pre-planed board. After all...your trying to get a straight cut.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Good reminder Gary. I have seen that wedge/slide adjustment in a YouTube video.

That would be very precise.


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