# what hp for router thickness planing using skis



## tomcoleman (Nov 15, 2008)

I am interested in building a set of skis for my dewalt 611pk with the intent of doing some limited thickenss planing and perhaps cutting some slots.

Is this router too much of light weight for planing task.........reducing 3/4 red oak to 1/2 inch


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I.25hp is on the light side for any serious routing, especially planing hard woods. When you next buy a router choose one that's 3-3.25hp and it will be capable of completing any task you ask of it.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

tomcoleman said:


> I am interested in building a set of skis for my dewalt 611pk with the intent of doing some limited thickenss planing and perhaps cutting some slots.
> 
> Is this router too much of light weight for planing task.........reducing 3/4 red oak to 1/2 inch


Hi Tom - I agree a big router would be better. The 611 would probably do it if you're careful with the depth of cut and size of cutter. Personally, I use the 2.25 HP Freud.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi


For me it's not the size of the router it's the size of the bit you can use in the router the 611 is a 1/4" shank router bit only, the 611 has a ton of power BUT the biggest one you can use is 3/4" one ,the max without over loading the router..


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Like John said using the trim router probably wouldn't be a good idea unless you plan on skim planing hardwood stock.

I just set up my Woodhaven planer yesterday to bring down a lot of 3/4 stock to 5/8 and 1/2 using a 2-1/4 HP Hitachi M12VC router. I use a 2-1/4 diameter Drawer Lock Bit in the Hitachi to plane the stock and keep the cuts less than 1/32 in hardwood. I tried 1/32 in Ambrosia Maple and didn't like the way the router sounded so I reduced the depth of the cut. Ambrosia Maple is a heck of a lot softer than Oak,especially Quarter Sawn White Oak, Birdseye Maple and some of the Exotic Hardwood I have to plane in the next few days.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

A 3+ HP router might be a bit heavy for most of the skis I see on this forum. The problem is that most skis have rods that go thru holes in the router base. The router base holes are designed for small, lightweight attachments like a edge guide, not for rods to support 1 12-15 lb router. So I would suggest a 2 HP router, or a stouter ski jig (to minimize bounce - i.e. flatter surface on work piece).

Note: Bit size and depth of cut will determine how much power you need and how nice the finish is. Smaller diameter nbits and lower depth of cuts will reduce power required and increase finish quality.


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## bclarknc (Feb 28, 2012)

What about a 1 3/4 hp one? Just bought a ryobi plunge one for 8 bucks and wouldn't mind just having it dedicated. I have a 2 hp craftsman if not. I really need to do this because I'm about to buy a stack of rough oak, but you guys have me worried I won't have enough power.


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello Tom!

You will probably be able to to it even with little router.
Let us know how it did.

About skis made of steel rods , it could be a bit flexible, and 
I' ve noticed on my router that when thightening the screws on steel rods,
the router get inclination, not stay horizonal, this would give a bad finish.
a curved edges router bit is better for finish, like a bowl cutter.
Straight bit could do, but with more sanding.
Flexibility is another cause of bad finish.
Skis made of plywood or wood could do better,
even if it makes things difficult to see, there is not much to be seen..

Regards.


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