# Door Edge Treatment (Squaring Edge/Rabbet)



## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

I am building a workbench where I will be using a solid core door as the top. I have two operations that I need to accomplish: 1) squaring the edges - removing a chamfer and 2) placing a rabbet to receive an edging piece. 

Door is 1 3/4" thick, with about a 1/16" chamfer. Surface veneer is birch. I plan on edging it with maple. I need to clean up the edges so there is a sharp, square corner for a clean joint with the edging. I want to put in a rabbet along the edge for what I'll call a tongue in groove joint for the edging. 

I am thinking the edge squaring might be doable in a two-stage operation. First would be with a bearing guided bit with a bearing that is slightly smaller in diameter than the router cutter diameter reaching to about the centerline. Second stage would be to put the full diameter bearing on the bit and run it along the opposite side to bring it to flush with the first edge side. I have two bearing guided bits that could be used, 7/8x1-1/2" (1/2" shank) and 1/2x1" (1/4" shank). I do not know the bearing IDs, but I believe that can be dealt with. Both are used, not perfectly sharp, with the larger one being more dull. 

For the rabbet, I have a slot cutting router bit that I think can be used (Infinity Tools 00-236). It has multiple cutters, like a dado set. My only concern is how long the 1/2" shaft is and the amount of extension beyond the collet that might be needed. Shaft is 1 1/2" long. I can see doing this in two stages also, reaching in from each side, using a less wide cutter stack to reduce the latteral pressure. Included bearings allow for a minimum of 1/4" deep cut, but I think using an edge guide or template guide, I might be able to reduce that cut depth to 1/8" and make two passes. 

I am interested in your thoughts on the above and ideas on alternative approaches.

Thanks,

Rick


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I'd probably just clamp a straight edge on the door and use a straight bit. As for a dull bit you can touch them up with a diamond hone. They won't be good as new but will show an improvement. I use the ones that are about 2" x 6" and come 3 to a set. I prefer to lay the hone on the edge of the bench and stroke the bit back and forth a few times. You want to use the fine hone (600 grit equivalent) to do it. Another option are the small 1" x about 3" little diamond paddles. They are often sold in outdoor sports stores. Bow hunters use them to sharpen broadheads and fishermen use them to sharpen hooks.


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

Ah, yes. Forgot about the straight edge and straight bit. 

I have a 6 ft long 2" wide extruded aluminum angle that is part of my bamboo rod making mill, that I have removed and am using as a straight edge. Bit of a pain the clamp to the edge, perhaps, as it will need to go underneath, but doable. I could use the edge guide to position the router, from the top surface. I think I'd rather place the door on edge for the long sides, but with the door at 80" long, I'd have to lay if flat for the narrow edges. 

I'll give that setup a dry run trial. 

Thanks,

Rick


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

Forgot to ask, are you honing the OD of the flutes or the vertical faces? I am having trouble picturing the setup you mention. 

Rick


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RickKr said:


> I am building a workbench where I will be using a solid core door as the top. I have two operations that I need to accomplish: 1) squaring the edges - removing a chamfer and 2) placing a rabbet to receive an edging piece.
> 
> Door is 1 3/4" thick, with about a 1/16" chamfer. Surface veneer is birch. I plan on edging it with maple. I need to clean up the edges so there is a sharp, square corner for a clean joint with the edging. I want to put in a rabbet along the edge for what I'll call a tongue in groove joint for the edging.
> 
> ...


*for squaring... *
use your router as a joiner...
see the PDF...
*
for the rabbet..*
since we don't know what size rabbet you want...
a rabbeting bit may take care of it...

if you need a larger rabbet than those bits can give you go w/ a straight bit or a mortising bit instead... a spiral bit would be over kill...
a clamp on straight guide is just the ticket for those two bits...
unless you already have an edge guide for your router...

are you trying to full edge band or make a rabbet and fill w/ your maple???
have you considered a T or splined edge molding??

I'm not clear on the slot cutter limitations you speak of...

.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RickKr said:


> Forgot to ask, are you honing the OD of the flutes or the vertical faces? I am having trouble picturing the setup you mention.
> 
> Rick


vertical back edge..

.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Rick, are you suggesting you want to install the edge as an inverted 'L' shape? Seems like a lot of extra trouble for what is potentially a fragile joint solution.
How thick is the edging? 3/4" ? If you're using hardwood, maybe just glue it up. then drill and dowel along the length? Or drill, screw, and plug the holes with dowel.
Once again the subject of glue strength lurks unsaid in the background...


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

Stick486 said:


> *for squaring... *
> use your router as a joiner...
> see the PDF...


 I am, for a straight edged piece of wood. The angle iron thing didn't turn out to be as much of a right angle as I wanted. 

Something just occurred to me. When speaking of a straight edge, were some meaning clamp the straight edge to the base of the router and use it to guide the router? I am thinking of clamping, now, a straight, square-edged board on the underside of the door, as additional support for the base of the router. I would be using an edge guide to set the distance of the cut and guiding along the upper side of the door surface. This is all with the door laying flat on a table or its leg base, as in the photo below. 



Stick486 said:


> * for the rabbet..*
> since we don't know what size rabbet you want...
> a rabbeting bit may take care of it...


Didn't say perhaps, but 1/2" wide is what I am thinking. 



Stick486 said:


> if you need a larger rabbet than those bits can give you go w/ a straight bit or a mortising bit instead... a spiral bit would be over kill...
> a clamp on straight guide is just the ticket for those two bits...
> unless you already have an edge guide for your router...


 I have an edge guide. You saying the edge guide alone would be enough. I was trying to give the router base more support with the straight edge (not use it to guide the router), 

Money is tight these days, so I would like to use bits that I have, rather than spend money I don't have on new ones. 



Stick486 said:


> are you trying to full edge band or make a rabbet and fill w/ your maple???


Not sure as it sounds like both, sort of. Rabbet in the middle of the edge of the door and fill with the maple strip, but the maple strip would be full width of the door edge with the part that would fill the rabbet as the long edge of a "T", like the far left in your image. 



Stick486 said:


> have you considered a T or splined edge molding??


Not sure what these mean. If you mean a T slot like on a table saw that keeps the miter gauge down on the table, no, not that sort. 

Rick


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Nice looking bench, Rick. May I gently mention that those castors are a serious tripping hazard(?)...
If the wheels are universal swivels, rotate the brackets 90 deg to the sides of the posts.
Why didn't you mount castors on the bottoms of the posts?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RickKr said:


> I am, for a straight edged piece of wood. The angle iron thing didn't turn out to be as much of a right angle as I wanted.
> 
> 1... Something just occurred to me. When speaking of a straight edge, were some meaning clamp the straight edge to the base of the router and use it to guide the router? I am thinking of clamping, now, a straight, square-edged board on the underside of the door, as additional support for the base of the router. I would be using an edge guide to set the distance of the cut and guiding along the upper side of the door surface. This is all with the door laying flat on a table or its leg base, as in the photo below.
> 
> ...


1... a straight edge clamps to the door...
an edge guide mounts on the router...

2... wide = along the edge (end to end)..
width = width of slot top to bottom..
depth = how deep you cut the slot...

3... yes... the straight edge *is to guide* the router...
that angle piece will work if it's straight...
these are *straight edge guides.*.. 
watch the 1st minute or so to help you apply your piece of angle...

4... what bits do you have on hand??? Straight??? Slot cutter??? Rabbet???

5... you are not cutting a rabbet.. you are cutting a slot...
you will be installing a T edge banding/molding...
refer to the pic in post #9...
the far left banding is a T molding... I trust you are looking to cut the slot for it...










6... that's a miter slot.. different animal..
that type of T is cut w/ a T slot bit...











this pic shows a rabbet cut and others.. (see pic)

.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Stick...doesn't sound like he means a rabbet...I think he's routing a groove down the center of the edge of the door...

Then a T-shaped piece of maple to fit into it as edging...

A slot cutter could do the trick...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Stick...doesn't sound like he means a rabbet...I think he's routing a groove down the center of the edge of the door...
> 
> Then a T-shaped piece of maple to fit into it as edging...
> 
> A slot cutter could do the trick...


isn't that what I said???
am I speaking an obscure language???


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

DaninVan said:


> Nice looking bench, Rick. May I gently mention that those castors are a serious tripping hazard(?)...
> If the wheels are universal swivels, rotate the brackets 90 deg to the sides of the posts.
> Why didn't you mount castors on the bottoms of the posts?


I hadn't considered them as tripping hazards, but they are. Perhaps I had not because the casters are not meant to remain in place as pictured. They are removable and that is my plan. I don't anticipate moving the bench much once it is finished an in use. See photo below. There are other things in my shop where I might use these casters more and where they might remain. But, I would use the same quick-release mounting plates. 

There are leveling feet on the bottoms of the posts (6), so that I can level the support frame to minimize distorting the table top and provide good support throughout the bench. Second photo below.


Rick


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

RickKr said:


> Forgot to ask, are you honing the OD of the flutes or the vertical faces? I am having trouble picturing the setup you mention.
> 
> Rick


Just the face. The trick is to keep the bit flat on the hone which is why I find it easier to lay the hone on a bench and try to hold the bit face flat on it.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

RickKr said:


> I hadn't considered them as tripping hazards, but they are. Perhaps I had not because the casters are not meant to remain in place as pictured. They are removable and that is my plan. I don't anticipate moving the bench much once it is finished an in use. See photo below. There are other things in my shop where I might use these casters more and where they might remain. But, I would use the same quick-release mounting plates.
> 
> There are leveling feet on the bottoms of the posts (6), so that I can level the support frame to minimize distorting the table top and provide good support throughout the bench. Second photo below.
> 
> ...


Ha! So you're not just a pretty face... Lol
Great plan, Rick!


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> isn't that what I said???
> am I speaking an obscure language???



H92n8wn 5y3 58m3 r94 qoo t99en m3n t9 c9n3e ti tghe q8e 9r ty483 d97nt46...


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

Stick486 said:


> 1... a straight edge clamps to the door...
> an edge guide mounts on the router...


Yes, that is the way I am thinking of them.



Stick486 said:


> 4... what bits do you have on hand??? Straight??? Slot cutter??? Rabbet???


Freud 23-140 1/2" dia, 2 flute, 1" flute length, 1/2" dia. shank.

Amana 47130 3/4" dia., 2 flute, 1-1/2" flute length, bearing guided, 1/2" shank (this is the "duller" one). 

Infinity Tools Slot Cutter Set (pictured in my initial post above). 



Stick486 said:


> 5... you are not cutting a rabbet.. you are cutting a slot...
> you will be installing a *T edge banding/molding*...
> refer to the pic in post #9...


 Post #9 is from DaninVan and does not have any photos. Do you mean your post, #5? 

The image I attached below is a clip from your image, which is what I want to do. 



Stick486 said:


> the far left banding is a T molding... I trust you are looking to cut the slot for it...


 Yes, this is what I want to do, T edge banding molding, all the way around all four edges of the door. The set I have (the Infinity one above), that is like a dado stack, has cutters that can be stacked to get most any desired slot width. Shallowest depth is 1/4" with the largest guide bearing, which is fine with me. I would set it up to cut a 1/2" wide slot unless there are reasons to use a different width.

Rick


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> H92n8wn 5y3 58m3 r94 qoo t99en m3n t9 c9n3e ti tghe q8e 9r ty483 d97nt46...


I will not...
can I say ''Bite Me'' on this forum??

and I said language...
not dialect...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@RickKr...

I meant post #10...

use your Infinity to cut the slot...
Stack the cutters to your happiness and let the bearing be your guide...
change the bearing for depth of cut control...

sure glad we sent the rabbet to the dinner table...
*https://www.routerforums.com/2106465-post23.html
*


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## Flipsaw (Mar 11, 2016)

Aren't those type of casters meant to go on the sides of the bench length so that they are covered up more by the overhang on the sides?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

JJ; they're temporary...
https://www.routerforums.com/portab...eatment-squaring-edge-rabbet.html#post2106709


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## Flipsaw (Mar 11, 2016)

Dan,
I understand that is was stated they are temporary, I was just considering pics that places like Rockler that sell these type of casters always seem to show them on the sides. To Prevent any trippings on them.

https://www.rockler.com/rockler-workbench-caster-kit-4-pack


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

That's what I said earlier, then had the reasoning explained to me. But yeh, I agree with you. I don't even like the ones on my TS mobile base.


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## Flipsaw (Mar 11, 2016)

Sorry Dan I missed your comment about that.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

No problem, JJ; it was Saturday, you were off the clock.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> No problem, JJ; it was Saturday, you were off the clock.


note to self...
what you read and what it said can be ywo different things...


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I'd probably just clamp a straight edge on the door and use a straight bit.





Stick486 said:


> *for squaring... *
> use your router as a joiner...
> see the PDF...


*

The operation of cutting a slot in the edge of the door has received a lot of attention. The other operation, removing the chamfer, has received very limited discussion. I would appreciate more of your thoughts on the chamfer removal question. 

I am not sure if using the router as a joiner was directed at this quesiton. If it was, I do not have a feasible way of handling the door to run it over my router table to remove the chamfer. 

I would like to turn your attention to the method I proposed:



RickKr said:



...snip...
I am thinking the edge squaring might be doable in a two-stage operation. First would be with a bearing guided bit with a bearing that is slightly smaller in diameter than the router cutter diameter reaching to about the centerline. Second stage would be to put the full diameter bearing on the bit and run it along the opposite side to bring it to flush with the first edge side. I have two bearing guided bits that could be used, 7/8x1-1/2" (1/2" shank) and 1/2x1" (1/4" shank). I do not know the bearing IDs, but I believe that can be dealt with. Both are used, not perfectly sharp, with the larger one being more dull. 
...snip...

Click to expand...

I misstated the size of the larger bearing guided bit above. It is 3/4" dia. x 1-1/2" long. The bearing shaft size is 1/4". In my collection of bearings, I have found a 5/8" dia. bearing that fits that can be securely mounted on this bit (had to use a shorter SHCS). This looks quite promising, as it provides a 1/16" depth of cut from the cutter flutes to the bearing OD (see photo). 

But... the body of the cutter, that behind the carbide flutes, is a bit proud of the bearing. Bearing OD 0.625", bit body 0.0640". While it is tempting to give this a try, on some scrap, it seems to me it will result, at best, in burning of the wood behind the cut as the bit body bears on the cut surface and the bearing will never come into play. I have looked briefly for bearings of odd sizes that might work, but have not found anything with an OD between 5/8" and 3/4" except metric and the ID is too small, 6mm (0.236"). 

Is my sense of this combination/situation correct and it is not a good idea/will not work? Or are the flutes deep enough (about 0.200") to cut away enough material that the bearing will actually ride and guide and the trailing body behind the flutes will not drag? 

So, assuming the above is not a go, what other methods are available, in addition to those suggested in the quotes above, please? 

Thanks,

Rick*


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

*Belay That*



RickKr said:


> ...snip...
> But... the body of the cutter, that behind the carbide flutes, is a bit proud of the bearing. Bearing OD 0.625", bit body 0.0640". While it is tempting to give this a try, on some scrap, it seems to me it will result, at best, in burning of the wood behind the cut as the bit body bears on the cut surface and the bearing will never come into play. I have looked briefly for bearings of odd sizes that might work, but have not found anything with an OD between 5/8" and 3/4" except metric and the ID is too small, 6mm (0.236").
> 
> Is my sense of this combination/situation correct and it is not a good idea/will not work? Or are the flutes deep enough (about 0.200") to cut away enough material that the bearing will actually ride and guide and the trailing body behind the flutes will not drag?
> ...


 Belay That! Works beautifully. No burning. 0.060" deep cut. Nice sharp corner. Fully removes the chamfer. 'Tis a go. 

I'll run this around the whole door and then switch back to the full sized bearing and finish the other side. 

Rick


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

If you laid the door wide face up the 1 1/2 length of cutter would leave 1/4" on the botom edge uncut. so you would still have to find a flush cutter to cut the other edge 1/4"of edge flush. You could hand plane it or switch to a bit that has a bearing the is the same dia as the cutters and flop the door over and use the bearing to guide on th last cut.

Or you could forget about truing up the bevel on the door edge and rip the edge trim piece on a 1/16" bevel and use a spline for a T&G on both door and edge trim. In that case I would rip the piece square,cut the slot ,then re-rip it at 1/16" to match the door edge.
The bevels on the edges of the door were to originally to keep the door from binding when closing. My self I would rip the door edges square on the table saw, (2 man operation) then apply the edges.
Herb


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I like your design a lot. Simple but solid. I would suggest the following to make it even sweeter.

Straight edge for flattening the door edge, yup. But I'd cut a half inch spline on door and edging first. I'd do a spline joint, not a Tongue and Groove (see diagram below). Cut both table and edging at the same time, face up so they line up accurately when you glue them up. With a piece that long, you might need to use clamps top and bottom to account for any slight warp in the side pieces. But a spline can be deeper and if it is crossgrain, it will be far stronger than a tongue and groove, which is a with-the-grain joint. Even though you glue the T&G, you will be clamping on that joint so you want cross grain for the maximum strength. Beside that , the spline groove can be deeper than the T&G is wide, for an even stronger joint. Glue will then make it essentially one solid piece. 

I would also consider adding a 1/4 layer of high density fiberboard (HDF/Masonite) to the top, screwed in place with a few countersunk flathead screws so it's replaceable. The top takes the abuse and when it's beaten up it can be replaced easily. Don't countersink too deep, and don't glue it in place!

Cut the HDF a bit oversized and use a trim bit to fit it exactly to the table. If you're cutting dog holes in the door, cut the holes through the door and replaceable top first. When you replace the top, attach the replacement HDF (masonite) to the top first, then drill through the existing dog holes through to the HDF. Put sacrifical pieces under the door to drill into to avoid chipping the HDF.

Wax the heck out of the HDF and polish it with a drill and buffer. The more you buff it, the harder the wax will become. Some folks might use MDF for the replaceable top, but spill something that cuts the wax, or after the wax wears thin, then a spill liquid on it and it will swell and no longer be flat.

Are you using a hardwood for the edge? If I were doing this, I'd consider adding a strip all round the underside to fit it to the legs and apron. Turn the top and table upside down, fit, say 1x1.5 inch hardwood strips to fit the table. Slip pieces of light card stock (playing cards) between the apron and hardwood strips all round to account for expansion, then drill some pilot holes and put four screws through the strips into the table's apron to secure it. That way when you win the lottery and build your dream shop (or move) it will break down easily for transport. If that shop or a vmove is looming, don't glue the short stretchers, just use screws so you can remove them. Your table is already built, so the last is for anyone making the same type of table.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

In respons to your comments on the chamfer: First, I would not use any bit with a quarter inch shank for that kind of a job, either for trimming off the chamfer, or for cutting the groove.

I would start with cutting the groove, preferably for a spline. That might require you getting a half inch shank bit, regardless of size. If you get a quarter inch sized cutter, you can make one complete pass around the edge, all the way around, then a second pass 1/4 inch lower for a total of about half an inch. Do the same with the edging as you go_ without changing the bit height!_ between door and edging cuts.

Then cut off the chamfer. This will reduce the amount you are removing. This is a job for a track saw, but a circ saw with a good, sharp blade and straight edge will do. Don't have a long enough straight edge? The cut a 5 or 6 inch widestrip of the masonite piece I suggested for a removable top. A factory edge will be VERY straight, especially a nice piece of quarter inch Masonite. Drill a hole centered on one end of that straight edge and hang it up to keep it that way. I will come in very handy from time to time. 

You can use that straight edge as a guide for the side pieces. I'd keep three long pieces full length, then use some spacer blocks between the three so you can lay the straight edge in placeand still have support for the hand held router. Clamp these over long pieces together and stop the groove before you hit the clamps. Cut them to exact lengths you need after cutting the final groove size for the spline. 

If you use a bottom mounted bearing on the groove cuttter, you won't need the straight edge for either door or the edge piece splines, you just need to use blocks and two side strips to give your router a stable base. You might be able to carry this off with a quarter inch shank bit, but go slow and use multiple cuts.

For splines, use a nice hard wood and use your planer to cut the thickness to match the spline grooves. Cut them off crossgrain to a hair less than the total depth of the spline groove and glue them in on the door side of the door first, then after that sets, glue and fit the edging. BE SURE TO DRY FIT THE EDGES FIRST! 

If you miter the corner joints, do them one at a time going around the table, much like the trim on a door. This will allow you to do a nice tight fit and glue the corners too. A few long clamps along each side and a long clamp for the height, or at least a lot of tape to hold it fast while the glue dries, then finish it up by sanding the corners to round them off a bit so they don't get bunged up so easily. 

I hope that answers your question Rick. I've done bench and table tops this way for some time. Spines are the way to go, I'm unlikely ever to do a T&G joint ever again. How you gonna keep em down on the ol' T&G farm once they've done a spline?


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

Squaring/chamfer removal is done. Used the step down bearing method I described earlier. Only used the larger 1/2" shank bit. Worked great, except where I had done the short trial section. Woulda been fine if I hadn't flipped it over and started on the untouched edge. Recovered okay, except for a couple slight scallops which I'll put on the back edge. 

Next is the grooving and edging. I'll consider using splines. Just need to study that a little, having never done any splines. I am thinking of 1/2" thick edging, so splines would cut into that 1/4" deep? Even with gluing, does that make for a stronger edged section than tongue & groove where there is a 1/2" tongue of the maple inseted into the table edge, even though it is cross grain? 

Planning on edging with maple. And planning on using miter joints. Considered using tempered Masonite as a table top surface. That is what my father had on his machine shop benches. Very durable. My brother recommended against doing it because it is so hard, for when working with softer woods. This bench will serve several purposes, inlcuding reloading and bamboo fly rod making. 

No glue so far in this construction, and no plans for it in the frame joints - all mortise/tenon & draw bolts. Planning on using some form of bolts to hold the top to the frame, but without a lot of torque, more to hold it in place. Allowing for disassembly, I figure to embed threaded inserts into the underside of the top and use bolts up from the frame with good clearance in the diameter of the holes through the frame pieces. 

As it happens, even though I just moved into my current home under 4 yrs ago, there is some liklihood that I might be moving in the next year. Shop space where I'd be going is about 2X my current 2-car garage, so I would probably be keeping this bench but adding one or more.

Rick


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

RickKr said:


> Squaring/chamfer removal is done. Used the step down bearing method I described earlier. Only used the larger 1/2" shank bit. Worked great, except where I had done the short trial section. Woulda been fine if I hadn't flipped it over and started on the untouched edge. Recovered okay, except for a couple slight scallops which I'll put on the back edge.
> 
> Next is the grooving and edging. I'll consider using splines. Just need to study that a little, having never done any splines. I am thinking of 1/2" thick edging, so splines would cut into that 1/4" deep? Even with gluing, does that make for a stronger edged section than tongue & groove where there is a 1/2" tongue of the maple inseted into the table edge, even though it is cross grain?
> 
> ...




I would keep the tongue on the edging side, groove on the bench side. Glue it, set it, forget it...


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

Nickp said:


> I would keep the tongue on the edging side, groove on the bench side. Glue it, set it, forget it...


Yes, that has been my plan. I don't know what kind of wood has been used in the edging of the door, but my bet is it is some type of soft wood. The maple I plan to use for the edging is likely stronger. Cutting a groove in the door edge seems easier than rabbeting both sides. I'll make the edging slightly wider than the door and use a flush cut bearing guided router to mate them after the glue dries. 

Rick


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I've never bothered with a spline on material that thin Rick but if you want some help with alignment then yes 1/4" is enough. I would cut the groove for the spine on some wider stock and then slice off the 1/2" thick piece for the edge.


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I've never bothered with a spline on material that thin Rick but if you want some help with alignment then yes 1/4" is enough. I would cut the groove for the spine on some wider stock and then slice off the 1/2" thick piece for the edge.


I'm not much concerned with alignment. I think flush trimming the maple to the door surface will take care of that. I had been planning on using tongue & groove, just to make the joint a little more secure than flush gluing. I plan on using 3/4" thick maple as the edge trim. 

I just got off the phone with my woodworking guru friend. A pattern maker from whom I've taken pattern making classes and have worked in his pattern shop on some of my projects before I moved a little over 3 yrs ago. I made two patterns for metal parts, with his help, for the Rivett 1020 metal lathe that I restored in 2007-09 (my avatar photo). 

Anyhoo. We talked about spline vs tongue & groove for this edging. He recommended using Baltic birch plywood for the spline. I have 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" in the BBP, which are actually 6, 9 and 12mm. I think I can stack the groove cutting router bit set to match the 9 and 12 mm thick plywood, so am likely to go that way. 3/8" deep spline groove. 

Off to the shop. 

Rick


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

spline is the easiest method...
¼'' will be more than enough...
use your slot cutter...

Note...
you'll find that the ¼'' BB is actually 6mm....
stack your cutters accordingly...
a fuzz over cut won't hurt nor matter...


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

RickKr said:


> ...snip... I have 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" in the BBP, which are actually 6, 9 and 12mm. ...snip...





Stick486 said:


> ...snip...
> Note...
> you'll find that the ¼'' BB is actually 6mm....
> stack your cutters accordingly...
> a fuzz over cut won't hurt nor matter...


Yes, I am aware of the thickness discrepancy with Baltic birch plywood. 

So, "a fuzz" over, is about how much? 

1/2" (12mm) is 0.473" thick, as measured. Slot settings I can get (with the supplied shim washers) are 0.465" and 0.480". A piece of 1/2" plywood will hand press into the narrower slot, slips in quite easily, no pressure at all, in the wider. 

Is about 0.003-4" space per side for glue enough... too much...? That is essentially a sheet of copy paper on both sides. I like the feel of the tighter one (pictured). The looser one has more wiggle than feels good to me. I have shim stock I could make an intermediate shim to bring it closer, and maybe be a nicer "fuzz". 

I'm kinda liking rolling this bench out onto the driveway. 

Rick


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

a fuzz is about the thickness of a playing card...
if you were a skosh over, that may be even better, I would... (2 cards, almost but not quite)...
you need to leave room for the glue to avoid hydraulic push back and not starve the joint of glue......
I over depth my spline slots by at least 1/16''...
a spline ¾'' wide would take 2 slots that were each 7/16'' deep....

your maple is ¾'' thick, I would not slot any deeper than 5/16''... target for ¼''...
the ¼'' depth is based on what we refer to as the 1/3rd rule... (not to be confused w/ Simpson’s 1/3rd Rule)... 

at least we're not doing hairs... w/ that level of accuracy we need to know if we're using blond, brunet, red or Musk Ox...

AND, that is one fine frame you built... KUDOS...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I've never bothered with a spline on material that thin Rick but if you want some help with alignment then yes 1/4" is enough. I would cut the groove for the spine on some wider stock and then slice off the 1/2" thick piece for the edge.


Groove for spline on both sides, 1/4 on the thin side and glue that spline in thoroughly. Then glue the wider side of the spline into the door goove, which can be half an inch or so. Glue the edges of the door and the otherside of the thin piece as well as the spline. This will make alignment easir, and the glued edge will provide an amazing level of strength. and the spline will make it ridgid as heck as well.

A tapered flathead wood screw (not a black drywall screw), in a pre drilled, slightly countersunk hole is JUST to hold the Masonite in place, not down Just cut the tapered part just deep enough so the screw head is slightly below the level of the top so it doesn't catch.

Splines are incredibly easy to cut with a router or a table saw. If you have a router table, you can freehand cut the table groove with a simple bit. Then clamp a piece of the thin material onto the edge, outside in, and freehand a 1/4 inch groove in that without changing the bit height. Or clamp on a thicker piece, cut the shallower groove in that and use it as a jig to set the bit height in your table, using the same bit and it will match your groove side so the top will be quite flat. Start all cuts with the up side of the door or thin piece in the same direction toward the router if hand held, down toward the table for the table mounted cuts. VERY important or one side will be higher or lower than the other.

Don't get spooked by the idea of a spline, they are easier to cut and assemble by far than a T&G and a whole world easier to cut than mortise and tennon. No matter what joint you choose, it will be the glue that holds that edge in place, the spline or tongue or tennor is only there for alignment, yes it will add strength, but it's the glue that holds it in the end.

BUT, if you glue without alignment, you will hate every moment of flattening the top.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

One last thing. There always seems to be a little play or warp that you can't see until try to d the glue up. Clamping the short dimension is obvious. Long clamps will do. But to make sure the side pieces align with the top, I'd cut a number of pieces of wood to lay across the glue joint. Wax or wax paper so the glue doesnt stick. Clamp with a smaller clamp against the door and the short pieces near the glue joint. As it sets, remove these short braces and scrape off the suqeeze out. You should have almost no mis fits unless the thin piece is pretty warped or bowed. Pick the straightest edging pieces you can find.

There is another option, Use a Table saw to cut a rabbet the exact size as the thickness of the door, leaving half an inch thickness, the just glue and clamp it into place after pre cutting the mitered corners. Everything is done in one shot, the flat door will be easy to match and clamping the bottom of the L shape to the door will assure it is flat AND give you a reinforced edge

The profile of the shape would be like an *L* laid on its side. This would be so much easier it could be done in no time at all. Three pieces maybe 10 inches longer than the door is tall. Cut a 45 on one end, then mark the other and cut that 45. Clamp and glue one side, then the other and then do the tops and cut the top end miters to fit. Find a couple of long L brackets and lay them across the end pieces, then while pressing the bracket against the end piece, clamp the bracket tight to the door to hole it in place. 

The under side of the L profile will be clamped all round for a tight fit against the door.

This would be the very simplest way of all to edge it. Buy long, straignt pieces of 2x21/2 or 3 to make the edge pieces. Don't have a supply, glue several 3/4 Home Depot hard wood together to make a piece about that thick glue and clamp them together and voila, you have it. There are so many ways to do this it boggles the noggin.


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

I think I'm getting the feel for the grooving. First one was Goldilock'sd near 6mm, a little too snug or a little too loose. 

So I set it up for the nominal 9mm (0.354") but the plywood I have actually measures 0.366". Groove cutter set up at 0.370" and that is the width of groove it cut. The plywood slips in with almost no pressure but does not feel loose. I like this one. I will go with this thickness. 

The cutter is currently set up for 5/16" deep grooves, which is what the bearing that is on it yields. I can go deeper, to 3/8" to provide clearance for the bottom of the spline. I was thinking 3/8" deep groove in the maple edging max.

Tomorrow...

Rick


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

*Crap!*

I buggered up part of my groove cutting stack cutters. One of the two 1/4" cutters chipped all three inner sides of the teeth in the 12mm (1/2") setup/use (see photo). 

I am not absolutely sure what happened, but I think that there weren't enough shims between the two 1/4" cutters and when I tightened the nut, clamped the insides of that one cutter's teeth against the blade of the other. I recall that when I turned the router on for the first cut, I heard something and when checking, found the nut was loose. I tightened it and proceeded with the 1/2" cuts from the previous post. Those cuts turned out fine, so the chipped inner teeth didn't compromise the grooving operation. 

Also, the base cutter is now captured on that shaft. When I disassembled that stack, the base cutter was jammed against the shaft shoulder. I had to grab the shaft in my metal lathe chuck and tapped the blade lightly with a wooden dowel to dislodge it. It now spins freely, but must have a crimp on that inner ID that won't go over the 1/4" dia. shaft. There is a small relief groove at the junction between the shaft and shoulder. I could press cutter off with an arbor press, but that will likely gall the shaft, or worse. Not sure if I can buy individual replacement cutters for this unit, or a replacement shaft for that matter. 

There is a second, shorter shaft that the thinner cutters will fit on, but I needed to use the remaining good 1/4" cutter that is stuck on the longer shaft for the 3/8" wide grooves, so I added one and made sure there were enough shims, which were necessary to reach the desired groove width. That stack is working fine.

The stuff that happens. 

Rick


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

go ¼'' deep grove on the table.. 
3/8 into the maple is pushing it for depth...
target a tight ¼'' for the maple...
cross cut the plywood spline a light 13/32'' (7/16'' max) wide......

note:
if cut the grove w/ the router on table top and w/ it on the top edge of the maple; 
all this business w/ the skosh and fuzz you'll end up w/ the maple flushing to the table w/ no effort and not having to dress anything...
provided....
you use the same router for both groves and don't change any settings other than bearing...
chamfer the long edges of the splines w/ a sanding block before inserting them into the grooves...
this helps w/ the fit and any errant splinters breaking loose and screwing w/ the assembly...


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

*Workbench Top Finish*

I've decided to forego the edge trimming on this workbench. I need to get it into service and out of the workspace. After I removed the chamfer, which got rid of printing on the ends of the door, I feel the existing edge wood will be okay if I put a round over on the corners. I like this bench and think I'll eventually replace the folding table in my shop with it and make a similar, but wider woodworking bench, which is part of my decision to forego hardwood edging on this one.

Next will be mounting the 7" Wilton woodworking vise that arrives today, mounting the top to the frame and putting a protective, clear finish on the top surface. For several years, I've been partial to tung oil. I've used it to finish several projects and used it on the top surface of my machining area workbench. I've considered leaving it natural wood, which in this case the veneer is birch, but given my known uses (below) that doesn't seem appropriate. 

In addition to woodworking, I'll be using this bench for: 1) ammunition reloading, so there will be small grains of powder spilled on it a bit, which I'll want to clean up, 2) wet grinder (Tormek) sharpening, so there will be moisture around, some spilled directly, which will sit for a couple to a few hours. This will also include use of a belt grinder which will scatter grit and metal debris on one end, 3) bamboo fly rod making, which won't be much different that woodworking, but I'll want a good clean surface/workarea as during glue-up, there cannot be any "contaminants", and 4) projects and activities with my granddaughter, and of course just general stuff. 

I'm interested in hearing what some other clear finishes are that would work. Durable, cleanable, water proof and refinishable are descriptors that come to mind. I considered putting tempered Masonite on it at first, but have decided I don't want to do that (I "should" do that to my machining area bench). 

Thanks,

Rick


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The masonite is both hard and smooth and makes a good sacrificial top. I've seen it varathaned and that helps with water resistance. I saw a chart once of the level of water resistance for various finishes. The only one close to being water proof is epoxy. All others have a permeability rating. Next best is marine oil based spar varnish, then oil based varnish, then water based, and it just keeps going downhill from there. If you really want durability and waterproofness then add some counter top laminate to it.

You might have been able to stack those cutters if you could stagger the teeth which always a good idea anyway as they cut at different points then. The teeth on the next cutter would sit in the gullets of the first cutter. You do the same thing with a dado stack on a table saw.


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> The masonite is both hard and smooth and makes a good sacrificial top. I've seen it varathaned and that helps with water resistance. I saw a chart once of the level of water resistance for various finishes. The only one close to being water proof is epoxy. All others have a permeability rating. Next best is marine oil based spar varnish, then oil based varnish, then water based, and it just keeps going downhill from there. If you really want durability and waterproofness then add some counter top laminate to it.
> 
> You might have been able to stack those cutters if you could stagger the teeth which always a good idea anyway as they cut at different points then. The teeth on the next cutter would sit in the gullets of the first cutter. You do the same thing with a dado stack on a table saw.


Thanks. My brother used epoxy on his bench, which is what he recommended to me a week or so ago. I can see using the oil based marine spar varnish as that is what I use on bamboo fly rods. 

I was/am/do stack the cutters, just as I do with a dado stack. That really is not the issue. The set/stack to cut a 9mm groove involves two cutters and yields a very nice fit with the Baltic birch plywood. That process is just going to be too involved and take too long - very much exacerbated by other demands of stuff in my life right now. I'll go forward without edging for now and come back to it perhaps, some day. Most likely not, as I think building that second bench will become more of a priority. When I do make that second bench, it would become the woodworking bench and this one would most likely be the one used for sharpening, reloading and rod making. 

Rick


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"I was/am/do stack the cutters, just as I do with a dado stack. That really is not the issue."
"...but I think that there weren't enough shims between the two 1/4" cutters and when I tightened the nut, clamped the insides of that one cutter's teeth against the blade of the other."
-Rick

I think Charles was referring to the damaged Carbide, from the teeth on one blade coming into contact with the teeth on the adjacent blade. Staggering the positioning of the teeth should avoid that contact possibility. You shouldn't require any shims; they're used to adjust the total width of the cut. That's their _only_ purpose, for example increasing an exact .5" (1/2") cut to .5625" (9/16") by adding _one_ 1/16" shim.
If you do stagger the placement, how did the damage occur?


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> ...snip...
> I saw a chart once of the level of water resistance for various finishes. The only one close to being water proof is epoxy. All others have a permeability rating.
> 
> ..snip...


So, I am considering using epoxy...

What kind(s)? Brands/variety, etc. 

I can go to the local hardware stores but they typically do not have much variety in their stock, other than common latex house paints and such. 

Thanks,

Rick


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

*Wilton Woodworking Vise*

Received the 7" Wilton woodworking vise yesterday. It is a beast! Feels and looks like too much for this bench. but I'll mount it and see how it goes. It extends out a lot from the bench, even when closed - 7". It is a fairly high traffic area where this bench goes, so that extension will be noticed, by bumping into it, until I learn to avoid it. 

I am excited to start using it, however. It has a pivoting moving jaw that also raised to serve as a jaw-full-with dog. After discussing mounting options with my pattern-maker friend, I will be using laminated Baltic birch plywood for the spacer needed (~1-1/4") between the bottom of the bench and the vise. And mounting it so the tops of the jaws are about 1/16" below the level of the bench top. 

I am impressed with this vise. Everything is very well built, operates well and the jaws are perfectly aligned and vertical. It came with two magnetic backed Maple jaw inserts. Very cool. Not nearly as expensive as I expected and nothing like the 4" machinist vise that I have (gift from my machining buddy 9 yrs ago).

Edges of the bench top are round-over trimmed and it is ready for a finish to be applied. That, mounting the vise and mounting the top to the base and it will be ready to be used. Oops, also installing shelves on the lower stringers. 

Rick


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

RickKr said:


> So, I am considering using epoxy...
> 
> What kind(s)? Brands/variety, etc.
> 
> ...


I don't have a brand to recommend but I did find a link with some info: https://woodimprove.com/best-epoxy-resins-for-wood/

You would be looking for one of two kinds, either a tabletop type or a spray type. The spray type will give a more uniform and possibly smoother finish but it can be tricky to spray and you may be kissing the spray gun goodbye in the process. The tabletop type has to be thin enough to brush or preferably roll on and it has to set slow enough that it has time to self level. The advantage of epoxy is that it will probably be easy to touch up if necessary. The main downside is the cost. Fumes and the trickiness could also be too.

Another option is counter top laminate. The laminate is easy to put on, cheaper than epoxy, and will be really easy to clean up. However, it can scratch and chip (if you pound on it or drop some heavy and pointy on it) and you'd have to replace it instead repairing it. You wouldn't need a full sheet and the leftover is handy for other things. I use a lot of it for drawer glides for example. A strip of it on your carcass and another on the bottom edges of the drawer are almost as good as roller slides.


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

I decided on spar urethane varnish. Two coats, both sides, so far. My granddaughter has really enjoyed helping with both the varnishing but also the sanding. 

I like this one enough to want a second workbench, much the same. This one will become my general purpose workbench and one to follow will become my woodworking bench. At the moment, I plan on using an oil finish, such as Danish Oil, that can be renewed easily and not be a hard, smooth finish like this varnished one. I'll need to build another support frame, which I'll make more like a traditional woodworking bench. 

Rick

https://vimeo.com/433639557


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