# Router bit storeage plastic bushes



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi

It was about time that I made some proper storeage for my 1/2" bits. Funnily enough the chinese stuff comes in neat storeage boxes but all my better US made stuff just seems to come in plastic envelopes !

Question: Does anyone know who makes the little plastic bushes/liners to pop the shanks into so they don't go into bare wood? I only came across one place and they wanted a ridiculous amount of money for them. They surely can't cost more than pennies each.

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Just pickup some clear plastic tubing ,and cut off what you need,,, then it will cost you less than pennies..but do take a 1/4" and 1/2" with you so you can check the ID B/4 you buy it.

By the way use a gasket hand punch for the bottom of the holes,almost anything will work for that.old plastic cover off something you have around the house works great.. 
============


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thanks BJ for the information. I haven't come to this bridge myself yet but I will. So thanks,


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

I was under the impression that it was better to store your bits in wood sockets rather than plastic because of the woods ability to wick moisture away from the bits. Where as plastic will condense the moisture allowing the shanks to rust easier. Have I been misinformed?
I do know that a wooden tool box is better than a metal one for that very reason.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George

The trick is to keep them dry and out of the Sun.but sometimes it's hard but I have done it both ways ,wooden box and the plastic sleeves ,the wooden box and the plastic works the best..that and the little bags of stuff (desiccant)you get when you buy a new sets of bits I do have them with all my bits.
I have wiped out one or two bits in just the plain wood box holes,the wood holds the moisture, the last wood box/tray I put in the trash can was made of Oak ,it was the worst..


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curiousgeorge said:


> I was under the impression that it was better to store your bits in wood sockets rather than plastic because of the woods ability to wick moisture away from the bits. Where as plastic will condense the moisture allowing the shanks to rust easier. Have I been misinformed?
> I do know that a wooden tool box is better than a metal one for that very reason.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Canadian Prices:

Bit Holders - Lee Valley Tools 

Router Bit Racks - Lee Valley Tools

Brass Bit Holders - Lee Valley Tools

USA Prices:

Bit Holders - Lee Valley Tools 

Router Bit Racks - Lee Valley Tools

Brass Bit Holders - Lee Valley Tools


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Then there is this cheap and useful method Peter but as you can see, I do use other methods including my first boxed set sat on the shelf.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> Just pickup some clear plastic tubing ,and cut off what you need,,, then it will cost you less than pennies..but do take a 1/4" and 1/2" with you so you can check the ID B/4 you buy it.
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob ! When I read things like this, I think, what a dummy ! Why didn't I think of that !
I understand the gasket punch. I bought a nice set in East Berlin years ago for washers, but I'm not sure of the need for sealing the bottom end, as the tube will act as a liner in wooden holes. Plastic>plastic adhesion is sometimes funny with dissimilar plastics, too. Brilliant idea, though for the tubing!

Cheers

Peter


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi George
> 
> I have wiped out one or two bits in just the plain wood box holes,the wood holds the moisture, the last wood box/tray I put in the trash can was made of Oak ,it was the worst..
> 
> ...


Oak is acidic. Never use steel screws in it either. Slavonian oak is easily available here.

Cheers

Peter


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Cassandra said:


> Canadian Prices:
> 
> Bit Holders - Lee Valley Tools
> 
> ...


Some interesting options there. You'd need deep pockets for the brass ones!

Thanks for sharing!

Cheers

Peter


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Then there is this cheap and useful method Peter but as you can see, I do use other methods including my first boxed set sat on the shelf.


Hi Harry

Neat ! Are these an Australian product?

BTW, do you use Schuco plugs down there?

Cheers

Peter


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

OK! Found them at Timbecon. I've not seen them before. All I need now are some Australians coming to Croatia!
I wasn't sure why the 1/2" ones were dearer, as I figured out they must use the same amount of plastic. 

BTW, where in Perth are you? My little brother is at Quinn's Rock.

Cheers

Peter


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

istracpsboss said:


> I wasn't sure why the 1/2" ones were dearer, as I figured out they must use the same amount of plastic.


In your picture they are $2 apiece but on the website they have gone up and have different prices for each size.

Thought I'd better add that as someone will wonder what I'm on about!

Cheers

Peter


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Very neat ideas and suggestions. Good question and great answers ~ Thanks!


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

istracpsboss said:


> Some interesting options there. You'd need deep pockets for the brass ones!
> 
> Thanks for sharing!
> 
> ...


 Of course there's another possibility. Mr. Jigs suggested using plastic tubing. Why not brass tubing? (Other than the cost difference, Mr. Jigs.)

Cassandra


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Brass tubing appeals to me Cassandra, if I were many years younger I'd probably make a dedicated cabinet complete with brass tubes.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

istracpsboss said:


> OK! Found them at Timbecon. I've not seen them before. All I need now are some Australians coming to Croatia!
> I wasn't sure why the 1/2" ones were dearer, as I figured out they must use the same amount of plastic.
> 
> BTW, where in Perth are you? My little brother is at Quinn's Rock.
> ...


Peter, I just spoke to Timbecon and they do post overseas orders, they suggested that you email your inquiry to: [email protected] and they will get back to you with shipping cost. I just rang the local post office and a parcel up to 500grams would be $A18.15.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi guys

Brass sounds great  BUT it would be hard to find a drill bit to drill it out to put it in place it would not be to hard for the 1/4" size but anything over 1/2" would be tricky to find the right drill bit or the right router bit to punch the holes out..
You can buy hvy. wall brass tubing but it's not cheap, comes in 10ft or 20ft pieces.. 

Not true for the plastic tubing it comes in a 9/16" OD size..for the 1/2" ID..
Take a look at the plastic insert that come in many router bits sets..

======


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

When drilling brass, there is a tendency for the drill bit to snatch. Specialist slow spiral drills are available although, as you say, they are rare to find for 1/2". In the UK, Tracey Tools sometimes have them. I'm not sure they are still manufactured. The ones I got from them were ones they had got when they had bought up stocks from defunct engineering firms.

Stoning flats on the lips of regular jobbers drills is normally sufficient to stop the snatching, though. They need keeping seperately as they are no use for steel afterwards unless they are resharpened.

Cheers

Peter


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Some time ago I downloaded this bit storage plan from WOOD Magazine. I particularly like the modularity, size flexibility and expandability. All from a scraps of MDF, using a TS and chamfer bit on a table.

Jim


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> Some time ago I downloaded this bit storage plan from WOOD Magazine. I particularly like the modularity, size flexibility and expandability. All from a scraps of MDF, using a TS and chamfer bit on a table.
> 
> Jim


I like that. I could combine it with Bob's suggestion. Thanks for sharing.

Cheers

Peter


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Peter, I just spoke to Timbecon and they do post overseas orders, they suggested that you email your inquiry to: [email protected] and they will get back to you with shipping cost. I just rang the local post office and a parcel up to 500grams would be $A18.15.


Hi Harry

Thanks for going to the trouble of checking that. I'll do some numbers.

Cheers

Peter


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You're welcome Peter, by the way, we live in Rockingham which is about as far south of Perth city as Quinns Rock is north, which makes it about a 1.5+ hour drive along the freeway with a 100Km/hour speed limit.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Thanks Harry! Not having been out there, I've very little idea of how much the Perth area covers. All I know is that it is a modern conurbation a hell of a long way from anywhere else! It all helps to get an idea!

Cheers

Peter


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## Pirate (Jul 25, 2008)

I ordered the plastic bushings in 1/4" and 1/2" but forgot who I got them from! I remember it was a place I don't usually buy from. Tomorrow, I'll check the shop. I think I may have an unopened package of them. They were fairly cheap. 
On thing I like about them, is if you want to put a 1/4" bit where a 1/2" one was, just change the bushing. The OD on both are the same.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi guys
> 
> Brass sounds great  BUT it would be hard to find a drill bit to drill it out to put it in place it would not be to hard for the 1/4" size but anything over 1/2" would be tricky to find the right drill bit or the right router bit to punch the holes out..
> 
> ======


A 13mm drill bit would give about 0.3mm (0.0144") clearance. 

See? That metric stuff is good for something!!! <Looking at Bob and winking before looking over to Harry> Even if it is because its sloppy holes make a good sliding holder for for a *real* (American) sized bit support! 

(Actually there's a lot of good to say about metric. Having a 13mm bit in a 40mm guide makes the math clearer than a 5/8 bit in a 51/64ths OD guide. What's significant about having 11/128ths offset.. or 19/128ths with a 1/2" bit!! ...and a 1-3/18OD? Give me a break!)

Though I've a set of PC guides for my lift I took Bob's advice when I bought a new base plate for my old Ryobi RE600 and got a 1-1/2" OD unit. I used it with a 1/2" bit tonight with a template to cut the through-hole in my router table, leaving me a nice 1/2" lip for the heavy Incra Masterlift/PC 7518 to rest in. Then a top bearing bit in the Ryobi for the lip-cut. A couple minutes cutting (and about 30 minutes along the way making sure each cut wasn't about ready to turn the router table into firewood) and I was done!

After that I'm sold on bushings and templates. The value of pin routing for one-off's makes sense too!


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I bought loads of 1/4" and 1/2" ID black cylindrical plastic bushes years ago. CMT have them in their plastic containers. I have now run out and would like more of the same type.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

istracpsboss said:


> When drilling brass, there is a tendency for the drill bit to snatch. Specialist slow spiral drills are available although, as you say, they are rare to find for 1/2". In the UK, Tracey Tools sometimes have them. I'm not sure they are still manufactured. The ones I got from them were ones they had got when they had bought up stocks from defunct engineering firms.
> 
> Stoning flats on the lips of regular jobbers drills is normally sufficient to stop the snatching, though. They need keeping seperately as they are no use for steel afterwards unless they are resharpened.
> 
> ...




The same tip works for plastic and plexi as well. You could always use an old nylon or poly cutting board instead of wood if you're worried about moisture.

My bit holder is MDF, and I haven't seen any issue with rust on the shanks yet.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> Some time ago I downloaded this bit storage plan from WOOD Magazine. I particularly like the modularity, size flexibility and expandability. All from a scraps of MDF, using a TS and chamfer bit on a table.
> 
> Jim


I've been following this thread with great interest. I'm getting into the situation where I have maybe a dozen or so bits floating around in less than ideal storage situations and this solution, with a few modifications, looks like a very nice fit for me. 
I don't know about the plastic bushings though. Starting out I bought two sets, a 35 bit and a 24 bit set, of 1/4" shanks. These sets came with a wood box with plastic bushings. I find that the lesser used bits become difficult to remove if they haven't been used in awhile (some I have never used and may never use). The shanks seem to develop a sticky substance which I usually clean off with alcohol or brake cleaner. 
Right now I'm thinking I will just drill interference fits for the bits and store them directly into the MDF. Interference fit will allow me to use the bits as a handle to easily remove the bit and block from the drawer. Since I need to build a drawer also, I can make the size of the drawer such that the various storage blocks will store efficiently. 
Any comments?


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> Some time ago I downloaded this bit storage plan from WOOD Magazine. I particularly like the modularity, size flexibility and expandability. All from a scraps of MDF, using a TS and chamfer bit on a table.
> 
> Jim


Be sure to follow their instructions and treat the bores with oil. Otherwise, the holes will soak up moisture from the air and sell and cause rust.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

Like Doug I use cutting boards,they are cheap at KART MART/WALL MART/TARGET it cuts and drills like wood,little bit of masking tape to mark it for the holes,,you can drop them in a drawer or pull out slide drawer or a box you have made,,the bits don't stick, they come right out easy..

The shots below are b/4 I reworked them to take on the ploy.holders,,

=======


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Billat908 said:


> Be sure to follow their instructions and treat the bores with oil. Otherwise, the holes will soak up moisture from the air and sell and cause rust.


Absolutely. That's why I posted the PDF, I just didn't repeat the story here.


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi guys
> 
> Brass sounds great  BUT it would be hard to find a drill bit to drill it out to put it in place it would not be to hard for the 1/4" size but anything over 1/2" would be tricky to find the right drill bit or the right router bit to punch the holes out..
> 
> ======


KS #140 brass tube works pretty well. It has an inside diameter just over 1/2" and fits into a 17/32" hole, which is a fairly common drill size. It isn't too hard to reduce the diameter of a spade bit, either. 

The biggest pain is getting a good cut on the tube. I have used a jigged Dremel or a tube cutter. The tube cutter requires that you enlarge the rolled-in edges of the cut with something tapered. I ended up making a tool on a metal lathe. It is tapered for a little while, then ia short section just over 1/2" to finish the hole. 

An enterprising person could have KS cut a large quantity of correct lengths (they do custom cutting) and then package a set of 20 with or without a 17/32" bit. 

A group purchase of a thousand or so lengths would be something worth considering, as well.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> Like Doug I use cutting boards,they are cheap at KART MART/WALL MART/TARGET it cuts and drills like wood,little bit of masking tape to mark it for the holes,,you can drop them in a drawer or pull out slide drawer or a box you have made,,the bits don't stick, they come right out easy..
> 
> ...


BJ,

if you ever have a garage sale, make sure you let me know first....LOL

James


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> Like Doug I use cutting boards,they are cheap at KART MART/WALL MART/TARGET it cuts and drills like wood,little bit of masking tape to mark it for the holes,,you can drop them in a drawer or pull out slide drawer or a box you have made,,the bits don't stick, they come right out easy..
> 
> ...


Hi Bob

What is the jig just above the right hand box in the fifth photo please?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Peter

It's a guard,Vac.pickup ,safety pin/starter pin all in one jig..

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istracpsboss said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> What is the jig just above the right hand box in the fifth photo please?


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## kweinert (Jun 29, 2009)

https://woodtechtooling.com/CMT/CMTBitOrganizers.html

I just did a google search for "cmt bushing" and found several places that sell them. $6 or less for 20.

Combined with BigJimAK downloaded storage plan, it seems like this would work pretty well.

A timely topic for me as I've recently acquired a few more bits and having them in a drawer in their plastic "envelope" is getting unwieldy.

I'd add to that modular storage a small box that you could put bearings and hex keys in - somehow I don't think magnetic storage for the bearings would be a good plan.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

kweinert said:


> https://woodtechtooling.com/CMT/CMTBitOrganizers.html
> 
> I just did a google search for "cmt bushing" and found several places that sell them. $6 or less for 20.
> 
> ...


I've been using small medicine bottles to store the small stuff, bearings, shims, hex keys, etc. I think I can incorporate those into the modules by just putting the correct size hole in the blocks. 

On using the MDF for the storage blocks, in the interests of time/cost, I am planning on sealing the block with a quick drying Int/Ext spray enamel before punching the hole for the shank. Then treat the hole with WD-40. Would that sufficiently block moisture?


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## Rutabagared (Jun 18, 2009)

jschaben said:


> I've been using small medicine bottles to store the small stuff, bearings, shims, hex keys, etc. I think I can incorporate those into the modules by just putting the correct size hole in the blocks.
> 
> On using the MDF for the storage blocks, in the interests of time/cost, I am planning on sealing the block with a quick drying Int/Ext spray enamel before punching the hole for the shank. Then treat the hole with WD-40. Would that sufficiently block moisture?


I've stored my bits in 1 1/2" MDF blocks for several years. I sealed the blocks with paste wax and apply a very light coat of machine oil to the bit shanks. I wipe off any excess oil just prior to use. So far no issues.

Joe


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

Rutabagared said:


> I've stored my bits in 1 1/2" MDF blocks for several years. I sealed the blocks with paste wax and apply a very light coat of machine oil to the bit shanks. I wipe off any excess oil just prior to use. So far no issues.
> 
> Joe


Joe, I like the wax idea, but how going a little farther? Like pouring melted wax in the holes, letting it set up, and removing with a hand-turned drill bit? That would seal the holes once and for all. 

But the truth is, my high humidity environment causes MDF to swell, so I will probably stick with the K&S brass tubing liners.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Thanks for the CMT link. I have contacted the UK distributer to see if they can supply the bushings, if not I will get a few packs of them through a U.S dealer.


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## Rutabagared (Jun 18, 2009)

Billat908 said:


> Joe, I like the wax idea, but how going a little farther? Like pouring melted wax in the holes, letting it set up, and removing with a hand-turned drill bit? That would seal the holes once and for all.
> 
> But the truth is, my high humidity environment causes MDF to swell, so I will probably stick with the K&S brass tubing liners.


Bill,
I thought of applying oil to the holes but I thought that the oil from the shanks would coat the inside of the holes (tight fit). So far its worked well.

Joe


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

kp91 said:


> You could always use an old nylon or poly cutting board instead of wood if you're worried about moisture.


Or Trex. One board makes a lot of little projucts. A straight reamer to finish makes a lovely hole. 



> My bit holder is MDF, and I haven't seen any issue with rust on the shanks yet.


Lucky you. With high humidity and my garage/shop's exposure to nightime air and salt/laden fog, I have had both swelling and corrosion issues with untreated MDF. However, the rust was partially my fault for not oiling the bores.


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## awoodnut (May 2, 2009)

*My storage cabinet*

built this last month after I got my new bits. I will go back and put oil in the holes after reading this.

The top two shelves are 1/2", first shelf is 1/4" and bottom shelf is for collets, wrench ect.

Made out of bits of an old kitchen cabinet I wriped out of a job.


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## Rutabagared (Jun 18, 2009)

Mike,
Nice cabinet. Sliding doors are the only way to go on a shallow wall cabinet. It's great that you recycled it from something that usually would have ended up in the trash.

Joe


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

awoodnut said:


> built this last month after I got my new bits. I will go back and put oil in the holes after reading this.
> 
> The top two shelves are 1/2", first shelf is 1/4" and bottom shelf is for collets, wrench ect.
> 
> Made out of bits of an old kitchen cabinet I wriped out of a job.


Looks nice. I am considering making one like it with plexiglass doors. I love my router bits, even the Chinese _for display only_ ones.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I have just ordered 2 packs of the CMT storage bushings from a shop in Chester. U.K. The Importers, Brimarc did not respond to my email. They were not even helpful over the phone. A quick reply was obtained from Grahams in Chester, where I bought my Bosch 650 drill 25 plus years ago. It still works well. P&P only £3.95. Cheaper than from the States @ $65 P&P. I will receive them in September. I have some of the bits and all the holes waiting.


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