# Rail/Stile speed/passes?



## JohnWP (Jan 26, 2011)

Hey all-

I'm finishing my router table so that I can start work on the doors for the entertainment/wall unit that I am in the process of making.

I'm planning on doing slab panel doors on the two pier units, and using either smoked glass or tinted plexi for the doors that will be in front of the components.

I know that the larger a bit is, the slower you need to go on the router. I have a Hitachi M12VC.

To cut the rails/stiles (No panel bit since I'm doing slab/inserts), what speed would be the recommendation, and how many passes for each cut?

John


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

The bits are made to do the job in one pass at 12,000 rpm's but it's best to make 3 passes,,the 1st.one will be set to cut off about 1/16" of stock the 2nd pass will hog out most of the cut the 3 rd.pass will put that very nice finish on the stock..and remove any burn marks..on the last pass set the speed at 16,000 rpms.

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JohnWP said:


> Hey all-
> 
> I'm finishing my router table so that I can start work on the doors for the entertainment/wall unit that I am in the process of making.
> 
> ...


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Yikes, if you did an entire kitchen like that you are adding a heck of a lot of time. I guess a few doors like that is fine. And if it is your first time that sound like a good way to start. 

I am a one pass kind of guy. If you have the right bits and right router(or shaper even) one pass is sufficient.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I also route my door parts in one pass. 2 passes with the raised panel bit changing the bearing between first & second pass. Not to much of a problem with quality bits & a 3-1/4 hp router. I can see with a lesser power router making more than one pass. A shaper with a feeder is the best way to go, but you can do a lot with a good router.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nick

True, But it's best to know the best way 1st.. I think 
Walk b/4 you run.. 
Many like to use Oak for the door frames and panel and it likes to split out a lot, with the 1st. small pass it will stop most of that error..(score pass)

But here's a little trick that will drop the time by 4, start with 5" wide stock, do the ends 1st.then do all the long sides and than RIP the stock to size, you will end up with all the parts to the door in a snap..  but don't forget the magic number of 4 to get the length of the rails.. 

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dovetail_65 said:


> Yikes, if you did an entire kitchen like that you are adding a heck of a lot of time. I guess a few doors like that is fine. And if it is your first time that sound like a good way to start.
> 
> I am a one pass kind of guy. If you have the right bits and right router(or shaper even) one pass is sufficient.


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## cgreene (Nov 7, 2009)

Do a search for "router bit speed guild" and you will find a chart that gives suggested speeds for the bit size. 

I have the same router in my table and it has no problem making the cuts on rail & stiles in one pass. However, I usually make the cut about 1/16 to 1/32 short of full depth, then make a final pass for the last bit to clean up any burns or tear out.


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

Multiple passes for door parts? What a waste of time, burn marks can be easily sanded out and you should sand to remove the router marks anyway. And if if you get a tear out just make another part...much faster than multiple passes....


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Opinions are like... noses... Everybody has one!!


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## JohnWP (Jan 26, 2011)

And now I have a bunch of them! Thanks all, I am definitely at the shallow end of the pool at the moment.

John


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Yeah I never use multiple passes for door parts on anything except maybe the deeper raised panel profiles. Really for those those I just use the shaper.

If your router is sized properly for the bits and the bits are quality you should not need multiple pases or even have to sand much if at all.

This is one area cheaper bits show their weakness. I use the cheap bits a lot, but for door parts use the best money can buy. There is substantial difference in quality of cut and the speed and depth at which you can make those cuts between when using quality bits. Pretty much for those type bits, door rail and stile and panel raisers you get what you pay for.

I would rather have better bits and a lower quality router than bad bits and a great router. I have found that the better more expensive bits for door making really do pay off in the end. If you can do one pass or even two instead of 3 or 4 passes you just saved a whole lot of money.

I still say making doors use a 3HP and up router with the best bits you can afford, that makes it a fun job instead of arduous.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI


The real pro's make more that one pass (Sommerfeld/Norm) for just two of them many of this high end bits come with two bearings just for that type of job..

By the way I don't see your Web site anymore ,what's up with that ?

As far as the cheaper bits ,I would stack up the Katana (MLCS) to any of the other high end bits..they are that good and you always get FREE shipping that's a real plus in my book..

Katana ▼
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/kathome.htm


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dovetail_65 said:


> Yeah I never use multiple passes for door parts on anything except maybe the deeper raised panel profiles. Really for those those I just use the shaper.
> 
> If your router is sized properly for the bits and the bits are quality you should not need multiple pases or even have to sand much if at all.
> 
> ...


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## mac_y44 (Feb 1, 2011)

This is the kind of info I need also. 1 pass, 2 pass? hp of router, all good for the beginner. Reading is cheaper than buying tools that won't do the job.

QUOTE=bobj3;221942]HI


The real pro's make more that one pass (Sommerfeld/Norm) for just two of them many of this high end bits come with two bearings just for that type of job..

By the way I don't see your Web site anymore ,what's up with that ?

===[/QUOTE]


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