# help on new table and fence setup



## fasttruck860 (Feb 18, 2008)

I just received most of the pieces to build my first router table and I need help with some key things. First here's the list of things I have: MLCS phenolic router plate, Freud SH-5 router fence, on/off switch, t-tracks, accessories. I just bought the PC 890 with plunge and fixed base and height adjustment tool. I haven't had to much time lately to use the router yet, so constructing the table will its first task.

Here's my questions. What dimensions should I make my router top? I was thinking 36" x 24". Sometimes at work we have leftover counter tops, would this be a better choice than mdf? Does anyone have experience with mounting the Freud router fence? It was designed to use a special nut that has to be drilled and mounted in the table. Of coarse this nut doesn't come with the fence. I was thinking of using t-tracks instead since I will have leftover pieces. Would this be my best bet?

Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi fasttruck860


This just my 2 cents 

I would not use the counter top stock, most of the time it's PB or chip board, not to easy to router a flat lip to hold the router plate, not to say anything about how strong it is...or to say strong it is NOT..

I would suggest 3/4" MDF ( 2 each) or some birch plywood,you can also buy cabinet stock that is Birch Plywood that is fac. laminated...

I would also suggest you build the base 1st. ( cabinet) with the same stock as the top, it can be just a simple cabinet case with 3 1/2 sides..,24" x 36" is a good size..for the top.

I don't know about the Freud router fence? may if you post a picture some one can come up with a workaround for the nut...

I also don't suggest you use the t-track, so you can hold/move the fence..it will put in a trip up lip right in front and on out feed side of the router bit..it's not a big deal on the in feed side of the bit BUT many times you will have a small chip out or edge that will hang on the track that will stop you dead in your tracks or put a small nick in the stock if you try and lift the stock over the hang up , I would suggest you use the sides/ends of the table top, that's to say a over hang clamp type hold down, that way you don't need to drill or cut into the top, you can also just mount the Freud fence to it...1/2" or 3/4" MDF will do the trick...


Tee-slot bit below
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_keyhl.html#T-slot_cutter_Anchor


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fasttruck860 said:


> I just received most of the pieces to build my first router table and I need help with some key things. First here's the list of things I have: MLCS phenolic router plate, Freud SH-5 router fence, on/off switch, t-tracks, accessories. I just bought the PC 890 with plunge and fixed base and height adjustment tool. I haven't had to much time lately to use the router yet, so constructing the table will its first task.
> 
> Here's my questions. What dimensions should I make my router top? I was thinking 36" x 24". Sometimes at work we have leftover counter tops, would this be a better choice than mdf? Does anyone have experience with mounting the Freud router fence? It was designed to use a special nut that has to be drilled and mounted in the table. Of coarse this nut doesn't come with the fence. I was thinking of using t-tracks instead since I will have leftover pieces. Would this be my best bet?
> 
> Thanks


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I agree on not using countertop material. Pressed board doesn't hold its flatness. MDF does a great job.

I just finished a new top for my cabinet. I like having tracks in the top to hold things down with. If you bring the tracks flush with the table surface they don't catch on things. If you cut the track slot too deep, just use layers of tape to bring the tracks up flush.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Good looking top, Mike! Now all it needs is a good coat or two of Johnson's Paste Wax and the flys will be using it for a skating rink.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Excellent looking table Mike.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Looks great Mike. Now if it will only warm up enough to go out and use it.


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Beauty Mike,

Very nice job.

Ed......


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## fdcox (Dec 3, 2007)

Now that a nice table, and I really like that base.


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## fasttruck860 (Feb 18, 2008)

Thanks for the suggestions. I will post a picture later of the fence.


Here's the pictures of my fence. I will most likely be changing the setup a little as I figure out what I don't like about it. I still haven't decided on what to do about mounting the fence, but I'm pretty sure that I won't be using the nuts drilled and pressed into the top method.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks fasttruck860

For posting a snapshot of the fence. 

" but I'm pretty sure that I won't be using the nuts drilled and pressed into the top method"

I pretty sure you don't want to,, you will only have about 1 1/2" of adjustment, many times you will want the fence back from the bit more than 1 1/2" ....the router table can do more than put on a edge on a board.
e.g. a dado slot for just one more ,,, 
I would also suggest you replace the Phil.Head screws with Allen Button Head Scews,you know how Phil.drive screws like to cam out and strip...the X drive out, or better yet drill out the threaded holes in the fence and just use carr.bolts with wing nuts on the back side,you will need to move the fence in and out all the time...  and at the same time you are doing that you may want to make the slots just a bit longer so you can open the black hole behind the bit to 4" max so you can use the fence with the big bits..if you want to go the extra mile cut the inside ends of the fence at a 10 deg. angle so you make/use a slip in insert to make a chip breaker for your bits...

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fasttruck860 said:


> Thanks for the suggestions. I will post a picture later of the fence.
> 
> 
> Here's the pictures of my fence. I will most likely be changing the setup a little as I figure out what I don't like about it. I still haven't decided on what to do about mounting the fence, but I'm pretty sure that I won't be using the nuts drilled and pressed into the top method.


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## fasttruck860 (Feb 18, 2008)

The one picture I could find on the fence setup had 3 sets of nuts spaced equally apart on the top allowing for more movement. I still don't like it. The whole fence can slide 1 1/2" and then each split in the fence has and additional 2" of independent movement. 

Thanks for the advice on the allen screws. I think I have some around somewhere that will fit.

I will start building the top or cabinet this weekend if I have the time and everything I need is here.


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## fasttruck860 (Feb 18, 2008)

Tonight I was able to pickup the mdf I needed for the top and 3/4 birch plywood for the cabinet. I glued the two pieces of mdf together after countersinking holes for screws. 

I spaced the screws about 6" apart along the edges and about the same in the middle, adding more where I think it needed it. Is this about on target or should I have put more?

Also, when I dado the cabinet parts will a straight bit be good enough or should I go and buy a spiral bit?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

A straight bit would work but, IMHO, a spiral can't be beat.

Just my thoughts.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

6" on the screws is plenty close enough. They won't be needed after the glue sets anyway.
Spiral bit at least, maybe a compression bit for the plywood if you can find it.
Someone correct me on that if needed.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi fasttruck860

You'er right on target 
The straight bit will do the job just fine..

You may want to Put in some corner blocks to keep the cabinet square...and to screw the top in place...
the ones that works best are the ones below.
easy to make on the router table and a slot cut to put the female slot in the cabinet sides...


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fasttruck860 said:


> Tonight I was able to pickup the mdf I needed for the top and 3/4 birch plywood for the cabinet. I glued the two pieces of mdf together after countersinking holes for screws.
> 
> I spaced the screws about 6" apart along the edges and about the same in the middle, adding more where I think it needed it. Is this about on target or should I have put more?
> 
> Also, when I dado the cabinet parts will a straight bit be good enough or should I go and buy a spiral bit?


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## fasttruck860 (Feb 18, 2008)

I was able to get some work done Saturday on the RT, but ran into some more problems. When I was routing the dados for the shelves I had tear out on a good bit of the birch plywood. What's the best way to clean up the edges? Also, during routing I had a lot of resistance in one spot and then it would get really easy and no tear out in other spots. Is this common for plywood? I also noticed a little burning on the tip of the bit could my dados be to deep? I was 5/16" deep on 3/4" plywood.

Sorry for all the plywood questions. I've never routed plywood.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi fasttruck860

5/16" should be fine, here's a small tip when doing plywood , go the wrong way with the pass so to say a upclimp cut way ( left to right on the router table,pull to you with a hand/plunge type router), this will push the plywood edge back in the slot other than rip it out with no backing support..

But if you are still having a rip out error make a VERY small cut (score cut) on the 1st pass this will put on a trim edge.much like taking a razor blade to the edge BUT don't use a razor blade you will not get it right on the button, about 1/16" deep should do the trick the norm...

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fasttruck860 said:


> I was able to get some work done Saturday on the RT, but ran into some more problems. When I was routing the dados for the shelves I had tear out on a good bit of the birch plywood. What's the best way to clean up the edges? Also, during routing I had a lot of resistance in one spot and then it would get really easy and no tear out in other spots. Is this common for plywood? I also noticed a little burning on the tip of the bit could my dados be to deep? I was 5/16" deep on 3/4" plywood.
> 
> Sorry for all the plywood questions. I've never routed plywood.


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## fasttruck860 (Feb 18, 2008)

Great tips thank you. You're a real asset to these forums. I will try the advice you gave me as I finish up the cabinet during the week.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I guess one question is; where did you get the birch plywood? Home Depot or Lowes?
Their birch ply is pretty cheap stuff. I've had problems with it.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

fasttruck860 said:


> I was able to get some work done Saturday on the RT, but ran into some more problems. When I was routing the dados for the shelves I had tear out on a good bit of the birch plywood. What's the best way to clean up the edges? Also, during routing I had a lot of resistance in one spot and then it would get really easy and no tear out in other spots. Is this common for plywood? I also noticed a little burning on the tip of the bit could my dados be to deep? I was 5/16" deep on 3/4" plywood.
> 
> Sorry for all the plywood questions. I've never routed plywood.


Hi fasttruck860,

The rule of thumb for dado's is half the thickness of the material you're working with. It's a strength issue. As for burning on the tip of bit, I'd say you have another issue happening. 

I have to agree with AxlMyk, HD Birch ply has been of real poor quality of late. But, as Mike (senior mod) has pointed out to me once before, they aren't a lumber yard either. I won't say much more about HD for I don't wish to upset others here.


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