# anyone worked with ipe?



## all10fingers (Aug 1, 2009)

It's gonna be a while,but I've got a '29 ford model a roadster pickup.I'm starting work on it this fall.I'm currently enrolled in the local votec learning how to weld. I could easily replace the wood in the cab used for support with square tubing,since you won't see it until you pull panels,but I want to keep it wood. something that won't rot easily,or cause the metal to rust.Any suggestions there would be great.I know that there are wood block kits available,but where is the fun in that? for the bed though,I've been looking at ipe. Has anyone tried using it in a similar way? It's water/rot/insect resistance is what's really drawing me that way,but I've read that it's difficult to machine. wadya think?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Rodger

I would suggest sticking with the OAK ,the ipe is nasty stuff,, the Oak wood worked well and it will do it again..I'm almost sure the Ford will not sit in a old barn or in the open again..
It's like using are all the right numbers for the rebuild 

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all10fingers said:


> It's gonna be a while,but I've got a '29 ford model a roadster pickup.I'm starting work on it this fall.I'm currently enrolled in the local votec learning how to weld. I could easily replace the wood in the cab used for support with square tubing,since you won't see it until you pull panels,but I want to keep it wood. something that won't rot easily,or cause the metal to rust.Any suggestions there would be great.I know that there are wood block kits available,but where is the fun in that? for the bed though,I've been looking at ipe. Has anyone tried using it in a similar way? It's water/rot/insect resistance is what's really drawing me that way,but I've read that it's difficult to machine. wadya think?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Won't the original wood have been ash ?

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Not to sure,,,,The 32 Ford ,3 window I redid was Oak 

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istracpsboss said:


> Won't the original wood have been ash ?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


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## all10fingers (Aug 1, 2009)

the interior wood I think was oak.It was so rotted that it's kinda hard to tell. the wood in the bed was completely gone.Old dusty termite poop now.The A was given to me by my father in law,because he knew that I'd actually do something with it.I've got a lot of patch work to do on the cab,and I have to build new doors,but that's nothing but time.The frame is in good shape,and next semester in welding class,I'm taking the frame in to trick it out. It's gonna be a class project. We'll be boxing the frame,putting in lightening holes, filling those in for structural integrety,z'ing the back of the frame to lower the stance,and bring the bed level w/the rear of the cab. also putting in an x member for more strenth. The whole goal is to make a hot rod,but nothing audatious.I will be putting in a wood floor that I'll be able to remove without tearing it up,because I want to someday take it to Bonneville,and I doubt a wood floor would pass tech inspection. I'll definetly post pics when I've done something worth posting.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

" hot rod " now we are talking rework/rebuild  fun stuff

If that's the case, jack up the body and start over with new frame,, then rebuild the body..

Would love to see the snapshots in two years or so,,been there done that  29 ford pickup plus a 27 ford..plus a model A fun stuff...

This is not mind but it look the very same only blue 

1929 Ford Roadster Pickup - Featured Vehicles - Hot Rod Magazine

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all10fingers said:


> the interior wood I think was oak.It was so rotted that it's kinda hard to tell. the wood in the bed was completely gone.Old dusty termite poop now.The A was given to me by my father in law,because he knew that I'd actually do something with it.I've got a lot of patch work to do on the cab,and I have to build new doors,but that's nothing but time.The frame is in good shape,and next semester in welding class,I'm taking the frame in to trick it out. It's gonna be a class project. We'll be boxing the frame,putting in lightening holes, filling those in for structural integrety,z'ing the back of the frame to lower the stance,and bring the bed level w/the rear of the cab. also putting in an x member for more strenth. The whole goal is to make a hot rod,but nothing audatious.I will be putting in a wood floor that I'll be able to remove without tearing it up,because I want to someday take it to Bonneville,and I doubt a wood floor would pass tech inspection. I'll definetly post pics when I've done something worth posting.


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

26-28 Ford, 33 chevy, 18 White C-cab, were oak! For sure! So I'm guessing they all were. The way they are designed gives a very quiet ride. I have seen a couple that had metal installed they were rattletraps. The wood work is just basic woodwork, Except maybe the steam bending. But all you need is a simple shop made 6" PVC steamer.
If the wood is too far gone to use for patterns, contact the clubs, they have the patterns, be ready to use lots of T-nuts.
Good luck
Harry


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## all10fingers (Aug 1, 2009)

yup a hot rod.I'll have to get my wife to show me how to post links someday soon. I'm goin fenderless w/ suicide front end and doors.most likely I'm gonna channel the body as well. I got a good idea in my head what i'm goin to do. tall skinny tires. low slung body. lot's of engine. but keep it simple and clean. I better stop. This is sounding more like a hot rod forum,than woodworking.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rodger

Yep,,,hot rods are fun toys ,,I had a 27 bucket T that was zooooomer  a nice Sunday ride thing,,,289 Ford with tons of power ,no top,no fenders to speak about,,,and about 1,200 lbs., rubber down for about 2 to 3 blocks ,it cost more for tires than anything else I put in it,,but what a kick to drive :jester: :jester: :jester:


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all10fingers said:


> yup a hot rod.I'll have to get my wife to show me how to post links someday soon. I'm goin fenderless w/ suicide front end and doors.most likely I'm gonna channel the body as well. I got a good idea in my head what i'm goin to do. tall skinny tires. low slung body. lot's of engine. but keep it simple and clean. I better stop. This is sounding more like a hot rod forum,than woodworking.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Go with the oak.


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## Woodworkers Source (Apr 9, 2009)

Several replies have endorsed "Oak". Just be sure to use *White Oak * it will hold up well to the elements. Red Oak will quiickly disintegrate.


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## jeepered (Nov 8, 2013)

Keith,
What about teak, or Ipe woods to be used for exterior uses?
Thanks,
ED


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

ED-
I don't know if Keith will answer. You realize that this is an old thread that Keith answered in September 2009 right? His last post on this forum was December of that year.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Here is a web page that has charts with general characteristics listed. Teak and ipe are both recommended for marine construction which means both must be rot resistant. Wood Comparison Chart Letter G - K I know teak is the first choice of boat builders but is very pricey these days.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

My notes on Ipe: 
Ipe specifically is a species of tree, but it is sold as "_one of ten different, but very similar species of hardwood. All come from Brazil, and all have very similar characteristics, but they tend to be lumped together and sold as ipe._" (AKA: Brazilian walnut, Brazilian hardwood, ironwood, Amapa, cortex, Guayacan, Flor Amarillo, Greenheart, Madera negra, Tahuari, Lapacho *****, Poui, Bethabarra, Tajibo, Mataverde, Tabebuia, cumaru (Dipterix odorata) and jarrah (Eucalyptus marginata)) It is considered an ironwood.

So the recommendations on Ipe are that if you are building or making something with it, to buy all for that project from one dealer at one time, so you have a chance of it matching each other in color and grain.

Ipe is from Brazil. (There is a recent Brazilian member that could go into more detail.) Teak is from Southeast Asia.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Mike.

I note a small error in that note. Jarrah is from Western Australia, not Brazil.

Eucalyptus marginata - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

If even the 'experts' cannot tell the difference, what chance do we have?........LOL.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tabebuia

Although, I believe most of the confusion comes from descriptions used by timber merchants.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

James-
LOL. I think so also.... I used to think apitong was from Brazil, then (Today) found out that it is a species of mahogany from the Philippines. No wonder I love the smell of that when it is cut.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Mike.
> 
> I note a small error in that note. Jarrah is from Western Australia, not Brazil.
> 
> ...


James-
You're right. I got that info from a couple different sources. Trying to research what a wood merchant lumped those 10 from... following another source who just had what ipe was also known as... And, yes. The eucalyptis was not even close, nor cortex, nor bethaberra... But for tabebula... you have to decide on your own by reading...

So I did more homework:
The second link, "Tabebuia," said it split down to over 60 sub-species where one sub-species did have good resistance to salt water and was a stay of tropical american lumber and "is an important timber tree of tropical America." But sounded like the coloring was not the same as Api, which Api is very dark. That one sub-species did have the characteristics of Api in weather resistance and density.

Most the other subspecies didn't even sound like they were good as timber at all. Most of those sounded like they were shrubbery.

But hidden in there was this tidbit:
"Those species known as ipê, pau d'arco, or poui were transferred to Handroanthus. Sixty-seven species remained in Tabebuia."

- Amapa is from that area, has the characterisitcs of, but is light or white in color.
- Cortex-- couldn't find info about at all...
- Guayacan has the characteristics, is medium brown... and the gum was used in Europe as a snake oil treatment cure for syphilis.
- Flor Amarillo... another name for Ipe by Brazilian exporters.
- Greenheart is from, characteriistics of, but is yellowish green with dark stripes. But is also referred by Brazilian exporters as Ipe.
- Madera negra also referred by Brazilian exporters as Ipe or Brazilian Walnut.
- Tahuari is Brazilian Oak, medium brown. Not as hard as most Ironwoods, but is harder than American Oak.
- Lapacho *****, Exported as ipe, same characteristics. Dark Color. National tree of Paraguay.
- Poui is also known as Ipe and referred as Ipe by Brazilian exporters.
- Pau d'arco is also know as Ipe and referred as Ipe by Brazilian exporters.
- Bethabarra is an elastic flexible wood from India (How did that get in there?)
- Tajibo... AKA Tabebuia spp, Brazilian Ebony, Brazilian Walnut, Ironwood, Irontree, Tajibo, Guayacan, Lapacho, Arcwood, Extreme Ipe, Ipe
- Mataverde... AKA Ipe,Cumaru,Garapa,Machiche, Santa Maria
- Cumaru... AKA Ipe, Brazilian Teak, Almendrillo, Champanha, Tonka, or Southern Chestnut
- Pau Lope... another name for Ipe as referred by Brazilain exporters.
- Brazilian Walnut is also referred as Ipe by Brazilian exporters.

I guess some got weeded out, but even more added.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

hahaha, wood work is fun, OK.....


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## jeepered (Nov 8, 2013)

Roger,
My brother-in-law just put in an exterior 88 step staircase up the side of his hill (direct contact to the ground) using ipe wood. I did a little research on this wood and from what I learned (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IPE‎) it would be perfect for what you want to do. My only reservations would be how well it would stand up to load, vibration and torque. My guess is that it would hold up as well as white oak or teak.
Thanks,
ED


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## jeepered (Nov 8, 2013)

Mike,
Cut and smell blood wood. Now that is a great smelling wood.
Thanks,
ED


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