# exotic wood



## oldrusty (Mar 31, 2011)

Hi Forum. I want to build some solid wood desk clocks and I am looking for slabs of wood other than pine or cedar. The dimensions are approximately 1 3/4"thick by 4 1/2" wide by 6" long or multiples of 6". I also need the same wood in 3/4 by 2 3/4. I know Lee Valley has small blocks of exotic woods, but where in Canada or U.S. could I find wood in the sizes I need without having to by a large quantity. Oldrusty


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Al
Rockler and woodcraft and some others sell slabs


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Semipro said:


> Al
> Rockler and woodcraft and some others sell slabs


If you have a Woodcraft near you, they sell culls, cut-offs, and scrap in hardwood and exotic wood by the pound for a flat rate. The local one usually has a BIG box full of them. You might find some very good deals on these for your needs.

Bill


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Al, Keith the owner of the Woodworkers Source is a friend of the forums. Keith has some posts in our Wood Species section. He sells a very wide selection of exotic woods. You may be able to get the 12/4 wood thickness or you may have to glue it up. Check out the online store here: Exotic Hardwood Lumber and Wood Supplies | WoodworkersSource.com

Tell him Mike says hi.


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## routergieck (Feb 11, 2013)

Al
If you are near a Windsor Plywood store they will have a stock of exotics and will be able to order in just about anything you might want. I buy a lot of my exotics online - just google exotic wood and check out some of the stores. It is better if they have pictures of all 4 sides of each board so you know what you are getting but the transportation is expensive. Hearns in Pennsilvania and Rare Woods in Maine have great supplies.
Dennis


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## rpludwig (Nov 22, 2011)

Mike said:


> Al, Keith the owner of the Woodworkers Source is a friend of the forums. Keith has some posts in our Wood Species section. He sells a very wide selection of exotic woods. You may be able to get the 12/4 wood thickness or you may have to glue it up. Check out the online store here: Exotic Hardwood Lumber and Wood Supplies | WoodworkersSource.com
> 
> Tell him Mike says hi.



+1, good vendor, wide selection.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Canada, guys. Most if not all of the mentioned vendors aren't up here.
Dennis mentions 'Windsor Plywood'...I think they're right across the country up here.
Another route to go is joining a woodworkers group; a lot of really helpful info and guys that'll likely share/sell (some of) their wood supply. 
In many cases their domestic hardwood came from private deals; somebody cut down a maple and somebody else cut'r up and milled it.
Up here Maple Birch, Alder, Apple, Cherry, Arbutus and Yellow Cedar (on the West Coast), Chestnut, Walnut and others, should be fairly easily found through the personal contact route, Al.
I really like Birch myself, so don't often venture elsewhere species wise.

I had mentioned a while back, Mohawks 'Radiant ' line of stains....do yourselves a _huge_ favour and try one out! _You can make Birch look like Cherry._

Designer Stains Radiant Series - Mohawk Finishing


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

or poplar...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Why would you want to make Birch look like Poplar?

The Poplar up here is green in colour.
(Not my fav colour, although Poplar _is_ lovely to work with...)


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Green???
make the poplar look like cherry...
but why am I telling you this...
I think I just got baited...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

No, seriously, the Poplar available here is green in colour. Not usually a deep green but green nonetheless. 
They use it for making mouldings but those are normally painted. It holds an amazingly clean sharp detail through the machining process.
I'll see if I can find some next time I go to Vancouver, and try the stain on it.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

fast phone call...
the BB poplar is green...

Dye will provide consistent color and, because it’s water-based, a damp rag can extract some of the excess if you use too much. Allow a little extra shading for the light sanding needed to remove wood fibers raised by water-based dyes. Like cherry, poplar tends to blotch. To make spot adjustments to the color, lightly rub darkened areas with 320-grit sandpaper.

*compliments of Steve Mickley *

The green heartwood of poplar will indeed change color over time. Whether or not it should be described as “boring old brown” is quite another question. My bride and I are the proud owners of a number of poplar primitives and we have had any number of visitors ask about the “beautiful wood”. But, of course, to each his own…

Is there a finish that will prevent the oxidation of poplar (or any other wood)? Short answer, no! Keeping it away from direct sunlight and not using full-spectrum lighting will slow the process; but, it will change over time. The sapwood, the cream colored wood, will not change so the real problem arises when you have a piece that exposes both heartwood and sapwood. This combination probably should be avoided.

You can also get ahead of the curve by applying a warm brown or reddish brown dye to poplar to take it where it will ultimately go. You may also want to consider a finish other than polyoneverythane to avoid the “yellowing” that accompanies poly. Water-soluble Antique Cherry dye followed by BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) followed by garnet shellac will give poplar a rich, warm color that can make it at home in any environment. For added durability exchange the poly for some Pratt & Lambert #38, a soya oil based alkyd resin varnish that goes on lighter and does not “yellow” on exposure to UV… 

Visit your local paint store and select the poplar color you want from the array of paint chips. Preferably you want an oil-based paint to maximize the open time so you will be able to manipulate the glaze as explained below.

Since you like the interplay of the sapwood and heartwood, do not apply either dye or BLO as I suggested in my previous reply. Instead simply apply a “barrier coat” of shellac. Blonde or super blonde shellac mixed in a two-pound cut from flakes would be my first choice; but, Zinsser SealCoat® right from the can is an acceptable alternative.

While the shellac is drying (25 to 30-minutes) decant some of your paint and thin it on the order of 50%± with paint thinner. You are turning the paint into an oil-based glaze.

Apply the glaze in a medium to thin coat with a brush or shop towel and then use the “dry brush” technique to manipulate the glaze to your liking. For example, you may want to leave more of the glaze over the heartwood while removing most of the glaze from the sapwood. The relatively continuous application of pigment over the green heartwood will significantly mask the oxidation of the green to brown.

Allow the glaze to cure for a day or two and then apply your topcoat. 

When topping a glaze your objective should be to minimize the impact of the finish on the color of the glaze. Varnish, especially poly, will “yellow” the color you have just applied. I suspect that the piece you are making does not require the abrasion, heat and household chemical resistance of varnish. You may therefore want to consider using more of the shellac used as a barrier coat for your topcoat. You may also want to consider a water-borne acrylic …
*
Dry Brush Technique*
With a soft, natural bristle brush in one hand and a shop towel in your free hand, use the tips of the bristles to manipulate the glaze, leaving more in some areas and less in others according to the look you want to achieve. The brush will feather and soften wipe lines and sharp edges giving your glaze a more "natural" look. From time to time, as necessary, agressively work the bristles over the shop towel in your free hand to remove excess accumulations of glaze; your objective is to keep the brush "dry", using it as a detailing tool, not an application tool. Do not use the brush to apply the glaze. Do not dip the brush in the glaze.

the project discussed...










… but I think I have it now.Smiley Happy So …, I’m going to change my mind, again. If you came into our store with this finishing project I would encourage you to use the poplar simply as the canvas on which the finish would be applied; in other words, forget the green. You want to achieve the high gloss guitar like finish. I suspect that is the most important objective so I will concentrate on that. On the possibility that you continue to want both high gloss and poplar, I will come back and address that as well. (Incidentally, I don’t want to go any further without congratulating you on your work; the box joint joinery is very well done, the cut outs are very well proportioned and the recessed inlay for what I presume to be some sort of control is clean and crisp. You obviously know something about woodworking as well as keyboarding; a subject on which I know absolutely nothing.)

I am going to suggest a finish of pre-catalyzed lacquer from aerosol cans as follows:

Begin by sanding through 220P with fresh open coat sandpaper, sanding with the grain.
Apply two wet coats of vinyl sealer. I will recommend Mohawk but there are probably other brands available.
Lightly sand after the second coat with 400P open coat sandpaper (grain is no longer important).

Apply dye based toner, again from an aerosol. There are a host of colors available but I would be inclined to recommend something in a medium brown tone. Apply very light coats, building the color with two or three successive applications until you achieve the depth of color you want. Note that the dye based toner, unlike pigment toners, will not diminish the grain/figure of your wood; you will still see the wood grain through the finish. You may want to keep the color very light in the center and build to a deeper color toward the edges. You can even apply two different colors.

Finally, apply 6 to 8 coats of high gloss pre-cat lacquer. Apply two or three wet coats before sanding, sand with 800P to 1000P and then apply coats two at a time before sanding to build a thicker, deeper film. The more coats of pre-cat lacquer you apply the deeper and wetter the finish will look.

Still want green; OK, begin with a green toner and finish off around the perimeter or across the top with Perfect Brown to add contrast and depth. Throughout this entire process make sure you have plenty of ventilation and a good activated charcoal respirator would be in order…this is nasty stuff…


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

!...Good stuff, Stick; thanks for that!!

That piano pic is actually a pretty good approximation of the actual colour of the Poplar lumber, on average. Some is darker and more intense, some paler. But absolutely, a beautiful wood. Never tried carving it but I'll bet it's a joy to work.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> !...Good stuff, Stick; thanks for that!!
> 
> That piano pic is actually a pretty good approximation of the actual colour of the Poplar lumber, on average. Some is darker and more intense, some paler. But absolutely, a beautiful wood. Never tried carving it but I'll bet it's a joy to work.


change the green to brown/tan earth tones and that's us...
we like poplar...


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## oldrusty (Mar 31, 2011)

The problem I have found is that companies don't ask for the dimensions I require. Most quote in board feet ?, maybe they will custom cut. Sounds expensive!! Daninvan, we have a Windsor plywood store and I will try there. Old rusty


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## oldrusty (Mar 31, 2011)

P.S. Routergeik you must live a few Ks north of me.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

oldrusty said:


> The problem I have found is that companies don't ask for the dimensions I require. Most quote in board feet ?, maybe they will custom cut. Sounds expensive!! Daninvan, we have a Windsor plywood store and I will try there. Old rusty


Pricing is in board feet, but surely they would want to know more about the product you need? Very strange.
Didn't they at least ask what thickness you needed?
The hardwood isn't sold by width; you need to pick out your own from the random widths the rough sawn lumber is milled and shipped as. They have a little tool that they check the widths with, and it reads off in board measure, based on the thickness and length.
This is a bit simpler than the lumberyards' but works just as well I'm guessing...
OneTime Tool - Paolini Lumber Rule
So in short, you tell them 4/4, 6/4, 8/4 etc and the minimum to maximum widths you need, and the lengths. They either have it in stock or they don't. But the number you'll get back is in Bd. Ft. and a price per Bd Ft.
PJ White Hardwoods Ltd.
And the list will change daily; you really need to do your selecting in person if at all possible.
https://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/showthread.php?41786-Hardwood-Lumber-suppliers-by-province


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Stick486 said:


> Green???
> make the poplar look like cherry...
> but why am I telling you this...
> I think I just got baited...


As we say in Australia, Stick. "Come in spinner".....:laugh2:

Or is that, "Come in sucker"....LOL


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

jw2170 said:


> As we say in Australia, Stick. "Come in spinner".....:laugh2:
> 
> Or is that, "Come in sucker"....LOL


the fall back and punt can be really rough...


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Another source in the US is Craigs List. In my area there are several sawyers/slab guys, various people with excess (a lot of flooring) and the occasional woodworker's supply. I don't think CL is as big in CA but there are similar, I think. Worth a regular look.

I've never seen green poplar, I suspect 3 months in a kiln kills it...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I'm beginning to wonder if maybe there's more than one commercially available variety?
The Wood Database lists at least six trees called 'Poplar'.
That would certainly explain the differences we're seeing.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=Popl...&oe=utf-8&gws_rd=cr&ei=o16uVeLUL4Gv-QGduavICw
Tenjouland Forest Products Inc.
Poplar | The Wood Database - Lumber Identification (Hardwoods)
James; no leg pulling here! This is a mystery that needs solving...


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## graycat (Oct 14, 2013)

Try timber suppliers who advertise in the boat-building magazines (e.g. Wooden Boat, Professional Boatbuilder) or others dealing with upmarket furniture/cabinet making.


Once you have found your "exotic" timber take care to protect yourself from it - some of it can be very nasty. The dust from cutting or sanding can be irritating, and can provoke severe to life-threatening immune responses. Wear glasses/goggles, respirator (good paper mask at very least), and I find that a coating of hair-spray (the "lacquer" -stick it in place type) on exposed skin areas (including your scalp) works well as a barrier (It washes of with soap and water). And wash your clothes afterward - the dust sticks to them and gets rubbed into your skin.

If you begin to suffer from itchy or watering eyes, itchy ears, sneezing, coughing, itchy skin or scalp, or skin rash when you are working with wood you need to urgently reevaluate your protection. The response can become so severe that you can not even enter an area where that timber has been worked in the past. People have died from their responses to "dust" from "exotic" timbers. Beware !

Peter M.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Walk into any HD Phil. Much of the poplar they sell will have green areas in it. Lowe's carries aspen instead of poplar; another inexpensive hardwood that works well without the green problem. At least this is true in the D, selections vary by location.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

I'll take a look next time I make a honeydo run (which is pretty soon) but I sure don't recall seeing any green before.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Peter, using dust collection with your woodworking tools solves a great deal but not all of these problems. Instead of hair spray any petroleum based skin cream provides a barrier and you don't have to worry about inhaling it. I use a generic version of Eucerin, Eucerin is available online for about $11 for a 16 ounce container which will last a very long time. The dust mask is a good idea.

You can search the forums for "toxic wood" to find the thread which lists the toxicity of various woods. All sawdust is a carcinogen.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

@Peter M, The wood database lists Allergies/Toxicity for each species.  It also has a handy chart summarizing the effects.. My favorite is Mulga from your neck of the woods - aboriginals use it as a spear tip toxin. Yikes, you ozzies have some pretty nasty stuff!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> I'm beginning to wonder if maybe there's more than one commercially available variety?
> The Wood Database lists at least six trees called 'Poplar'.
> That would certainly explain the differences we're seeing.
> 
> ...


so what can I do here to help???
the Borg has green poplar.. nobody else does...
low bidder???...
substitutes???...

leg pulling... beware of the punt...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> I'm beginning to wonder if maybe there's more than one commercially available variety? This is a mystery that needs solving...


Man that was a lot of reading...
the short version...

double yup.. your green stuff stands a very good chance of not being the true real deal poplar...
also the green color can be mineral stains from the minerals the tree sucked from the soil it's growing in...
so which is it...
only the mill knows and I'll bet they ain't fessing up...
the baton has been passed..

NOTE: the wood on this page is NOT actually "poplar", it is American tulip / "yellow poplar" / "tulip poplar". In putting this wood here with this name, I am following popular usage..... for the wood that actually IS poplar, see "cottonwood".

A note on the confusion among the names "cottonwood" / "poplar" / "tulip poplar" / "yellow poplar" / "American tulip"

When people in the USA say "poplar" they PROBABLY mean "tulip poplar" / "yellow poplar" which is NOT actually poplar at all even though the common name designates it as poplar. True poplar (what should, to avoid confusion, be called cottonwood) is Populus spp. of the family Salicaceae) but some people DO call cottonwood by the name "poplar" despite the confusion so it is sometimes hard to tell which one a person is talking about, especially since some people are not aware of the confusion.

"Tulip poplar", "yellow poplar", and "American tulip" are all names for Liriodendron tulipifera of the family Magnoliaceae. "yellow poplar" and "tulip poplar" are most the most commonly used names for Liriodendron tulipifera in the USA, AFTER the use of "poplar" itself, which is the MOST common designation for Liriodendron tulipifera even though, strictly speaking, that's the wrong designation. On this site, I list Liriodendron tulipifera as "poplar", following common useage, and I list the ACTUAL poplar as "cottonwood"

I personally think that the most logical thing to do would be to call Populus spp. "poplar" and Liriodendron tulipifera "tulip/tulipwood" (or "American tulip" to avoid confusion with Brazilian tulipwood) but as always, I don't get to make the rules, I just try to report on reality as accurately as I can.

To add to the confusion, one of the USA common names for Liriodendron tulipifera is "basswood" but the name "basswood" in the USA more commonly refers to Tilia spp. (which is also called "lime" and "lindon"). FURTHER, another USA common name for Liriodendron tulipifera is canary/canarywood, but those names more often refer, in the USA, to the South American wood Centrolobium spp.). Then just to make it all more interesting, many of the Populus species that are the wood normally called "aspen" ALL also have the names poplar and/or cottonwood or both as part of one or more of their other common names.

I COULD continue this trail of confusion until you felt that your eyeballs had been twisted into a knot, but I will spare you. This is the joy of common wood names.

if anybody wants an over powering wealth of information put up by somebody that is clearly anallitic - head over here...
http://hobbithouseinc.com/personal/woodpics/
nice to see there are others like me about...


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

I dropped by the BORG today and looked at their poplar - not a stick of green.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Stick's pretty much summed up the problem of 'common' names. That issue is endemic through the whole plant botanary.*
Welcome to Botanary, the Botanical Dictionary


Funny you mentioned Cottonwood; what we call Cottonwood here is pretty much a weed tree.
https://www.for.gov.bc.ca/hfd/library/documents/treebook/blackcottonwood.htm
If that don't mess with your sensibilities than you're immune. 


Getting back to the OP's original question....


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## phillipsted (Sep 26, 2014)

For the OP's original question about exotics:

I recommend hitting Google and searching out some local hardwood dealers. You aren't looking for commercial lumberyards that cater to the construction industry - instead, look for a hardwood dealer that sells hardwoods for flooring or cabinetry. We have a couple of independent dealers around my area that have wide selections of exotics. We also have a few other hardwood dealers that specialize in mostly "local" timber - for us that is primarily cherry, red and white oak, sycamore, walnut, ash, soft and hard maple and hickory. But they also get burls, crotches, and figured stock frequently.

Once you find these places, they can become quite a resource for you. They can also be a place to drop a lot of coin, if you aren't careful... 

TedP


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