# Which box joint jig/device?



## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

I am toying with the idea of buying a box joint jig or device. I see that Rockler has one, Woodcraft has one,and the Big Time guys have one they call the Universal.
Most of you folks are aware of my very modest abilities. Therefore, when you reccomend which one I should buy, keep in mind WHO will be using it!! Ha!!!
And since my investments are today worth about 45% of what they were worth six months ago I will have to select the budget model.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Birch,

I currently own and use the OP jig(s) and I also have an used once, the Woodsmith box joint jig. Used with the TS an the RT, provided you have a miter slot. The woodsmith is a bit pricey compared to OP I think. I end up using the OP jigs for the reason.... K.I.S.S. rule.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Birch

I will agree with Ken the best one for the money is the OP box jigs,,,you don't need to buy all 3 of them, the one you will use most of the time will be the 3/8" one, and to keep it in your budget ...it's only 24.oo bucks...that's good deal in any ones book.. 

But you also want to get the brass setup bars but to keep it in your budget you can buy the brass bars at the hardware store,, ( brass key stock) that comes in 12" long pieces ,the one you need right off the bat will be the 3/8" size.. the others you can add down the road..I will say the longer the better to a point..  just cut the 12" one into 6" parts then you have two, one to use on the router table and one for a backup or to use on other equipment in the shop..

You may say why longer, many router mounting plates have a snap in ring that is 3 3/4" in diam. and by using a longer one you are using the true mounting plate not just the rings..

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--&product=F024
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=bars--
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--



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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Buy all 3 jigs for change over $50. Cheaper than what was at the wood shows.
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--&product=SF1030


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## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

*box joint jig*

Well fella's, I checked out the OP jig and you are right, it IS simple. I recall watching the boys use it on the program several years back. But I fear I may be misunderstanding something. I have a Rockler router table which is fine for what I do. I'm not sure I want to drill a bunch of holes in it to accomodate the OP jig. Am I missing something. I also want to check out the Incra Universal. Am trying to find a short video on it.
FYI...where I live the winds are 35-45 mph, thick heavy snow. We are already snow bound out here in the woods. Only wood work gonna get done around here today is the transfer of wood to the fireplace!!!
Thank you.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Birch

You don't need to drill holes in your router table top.. 

Like they say, I can show you the water but can't make you drink 

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Birch said:


> Well fella's, I checked out the OP jig and you are right, it IS simple. I recall watching the boys use it on the program several years back. But I fear I may be misunderstanding something. I have a Rockler router table which is fine for what I do. I'm not sure I want to drill a bunch of holes in it to accomodate the OP jig. Am I missing something. I also want to check out the Incra Universal. Am trying to find a short video on it.
> FYI...where I live the winds are 35-45 mph, thick heavy snow. We are already snow bound out here in the woods. Only wood work gonna get done around here today is the transfer of wood to the fireplace!!!
> Thank you.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Birch,

As I've replied in levon's thread, which is similar. You can make your own spacer fences. I made one recently of 3/4" MDF, (For a 3/4" spacing). It's in my gallery if you wish to view it.

http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/10437-oak-park-box-joint-jig.html


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## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

Okay fellas, I think I NOW understand whats going on. Sometimes it takes me some time to understand how thinkgs work. I took a battery of tests one time and scored something like .02 on mechanical aptitude and 1.3 on spatial comprehension. There have been times when it takes me a DAY or TWO to fully understand how something works. I STILL have one helluva time adjusting toggle clamps...the kind that use the two little nuts on them? I fight and fight with them.
Thanks fellas.... I am going to continue my deliberations.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Birch, The Oak Park jigs are super simple to use. The HDPE (High Density Poly Ethylene) lets your wood glide across like silk. Drilling 2 1/4" holes in your table is the smart thing to do. They will not interfere with your tables performance, just speed your set up of the jigs. We will walk you through each step and in no time you will be making perfect box joints. The series 100 shows of the Router Workshop on DVD or through the pay service deal extensively with set up and use of these jigs. They do more than just box joints! We would not steer you wrong on this. Take the plunge...


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

Say you really do not want to drill holes. Double-sided sticky tape - good or bad idea? I can see the clean up being the downside but otherwise?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The reason for the two small (1/4" diameter) holes is to quickly locate the jig. Nobody says you have to drill them but look at it this way: If you do you will save time on set ups and spend more time routing. You could clamp the jig in place but this takes more set up time. I would much rather spend my time routing instead of doing set ups.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Birch said:


> Well fella's, I checked out the OP jig and you are right, it IS simple. I recall watching the boys use it on the program several years back. But I fear I may be misunderstanding something. I have a Rockler router table which is fine for what I do. I'm not sure I want to drill a bunch of holes in it to accomodate the OP jig. Am I missing something. I also want to check out the Incra Universal. Am trying to find a short video on it.
> FYI...where I live the winds are 35-45 mph, thick heavy snow. We are already snow bound out here in the woods. Only wood work gonna get done around here today is the transfer of wood to the fireplace!!!
> Thank you.


Snow? Sounds like you're in Québec? 

You can clamp the OP (OakPark) jig to the table. Four small "C" clamps will do the job nicely - handles down though. Make sure you've lots of clearance to make your cuts unobstructed. 

Alternative, make your own jig to fit your table. 1/2" plywood/MDF base, 1/4-1/2-3/8" fence thickness >1/4" height depending on bit to be used. Make yourself a set of all three. They're dead simple. That's high on my project list -- after a duplicator.

Hmm, I'm thinking I'll make mine with laminate. UHMW fences, small #4 screws through the bottom into the fence -- hold everything in place nicely 

Hey guys: If I were to make my own OakPark box jigs, would it be better to mount the router directly on the jig or leave it on the baseplate in the table and clamp the jig over it? I like the base idea. Modify the router table with slots for the router mounting screws give it enough play. ease off the screws slightly, wooden micro-adjusting device (hammer) -- tighten screws -- check setting -- start work.

Allthunbs


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

> If I were to make my own OakPark box jigs, would it be better to mount the router directly on the jig or leave it on the baseplate in the table and clamp the jig over it?


Hi allthunbs,

IMHO, best to leave on the baseplate. The reason, sometimes you need to "adjust" the fit. It's the same reason as why Bob & Rick use the "adjusting" tool. (Hammer).


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> Hi allthunbs,
> 
> IMHO, best to leave on the baseplate. The reason, sometimes you need to "adjust" the fit. It's the same reason as why Bob & Rick use the "adjusting" tool. (Hammer).


Hi Ken: Thanks for the observation. What brought this to mind was when I first tried a box jig, I had a Craftsman router. The bit wasn't long enough. I figured since I was going to make one anyway, I'd adjust that ability slightly. But, indeed adjustment could be a problem. I thought about using slots to mount the router that could move as much as 1/2" so that would give me the room to move and adjust as necessary. But you are right, adjustment could be problematic. It would be one thing to adjust on the radius but adjusting on the square could screw things up dramatically.

Back to the drawing board :-(

Allthunbs


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Birch
> 
> I will agree with Ken the best one for the money is the OP box jigs,,,you don't need to buy all 3 of them, the one you will use most of the time will be the 3/8" one, and to keep it in your budget ...it's only 24.oo bucks...that's good deal in any ones book..
> 
> ...


Awrighty-then... I'd not heard of this OP jig until I found one of BobJ's posts on it, now I have the 3-fer set on its way, as well as the brass bars. I was looking for some way to manage at least box joints until I get a setup for dovetails, and this looks sweet, simple, effective, and reasonably priced!

Thanks for the pointer, Bob... 

Bob


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome Bob

You can use the box joint jigs just like a blind dovetail joints,,sometimes you don't want to see the box joint of the front of a drawer...it's not a big jump to make blind box joints..with the OP jigs..all you need is a stop block..

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thistlefly said:


> Awrighty-then... I'd not heard of this OP jig until I found one of BobJ's posts on it, now I have the 3-fer set on its way, as well as the brass bars. I was looking for some way to manage at least box joints until I get a setup for dovetails, and this looks sweet, simple, effective, and reasonably priced!
> 
> Thanks for the pointer, Bob...
> 
> Bob


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Bob,

To add to what Bj said, I suggest you consider getting the RWS "Project Book" in the future.  I hope you enjoy them as much as I do.


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