# Router Table Extension Wing RHS in Table Saw



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Well I decided today to start my next shop project. The project entails making a extension wing on the right hand side (RHS) of my table saw. I have a General 10" contractor saw with a 52" fence.

As many of us can appreciate how valuable shop space is I decided to use this space to house my third router table. It will also serve to allow me to cut wider pieces on the table saw.

I had some alder left over from my last project so I decided to make use of it. I also have two pieces of arborite which will be used to finish the surface both top and bottom on the torsion box (TB).

I decide to go with a Torsion BOX (TB) over a more beefer top because I have plenty of mass with my saw as it is. Oh by the way TB is Torsion Box and not Baltic Birch as I had thought when I spoke with Jim so forget buddy I will go home and pray to my dog! 

I got the frame done today and will have to go out tomorrow and get a sheet of 1/2" MDF. I do have a sheet of 5/8" MDF I could use but the holes for the fence are up high and limit the amount of grab. I might just try the thicker MDF cause well it is bought and paid for like my waist line.:sarcastic:

Here are a few shots of the progress I have made thus far.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

If and when the church things get done I will be doing an extension to the right on my saw also, like the TB idea and will likely do the same. Will likely use some money paid by the insurance co for the work we're doing to do a few upgrades, add some to the DC and such. Well it is off to the church it will be a long day, BTW the fellas in charge have agreed to pay "shop time" for the hours we have used it for. I will explane later.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Nice job there Dan. I am planning on adding this cast iron extension to my TS when they get them back in stock. I know it's the lazy way, but my project list hasn't gotten any shorter of late.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

CanuckGal said:


> Nice job there Dan. I am planning on adding this cast iron extension to my TS when they get them back in stock. I know it's the lazy way, but my project list hasn't gotten any shorter of late.


Yes I have had my eye on those but I wanted to utilize the full 52" fence and make use of the right side.

I am sure you will be happy with it. It looks like it will be bomb proof and provide you with years of service.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

"As many of us can appreciate how valuable shop space is I decided to use this space to house my _third_ router table"

Looking good so far Dan,


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Well after speaking with Jim by telephone I bounced a few ideas off of him and thanks by the way Jim I went ahead and mounted the torsion box to the fence rail today. 

I will be using 5/8" MDF and I hoping this will be rigid enough for me since I am making this torsion box with 5/8" MDF on both top and bottom surfaces.

Here are some more pictures I took of my progress today. I went with the ALder I had and it is working very nicley for me. Once I got it assembled I used my block pane and smoothed off any high spots.

I will cut the 5/8" to 26 1/2" x 38 1/2" and then apply some 1/4" thick maple edging before I laminate it. I think this will dress the edge up and help to protect the MDf from humidity.


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

Looking good Dan, but I'm a little..... No..... a lot jealous. Third router table!! :blink:

Heck if it doesnt have wheels or can be broken down to store; it can't go in my shop.

It takes me about an hour to first get every thing set up, then I can start work, then another hour at the end to put everything back when I'm done, so the cars can get pulled in.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

That's looking really *sweet*, Dan.... and I like the ones of your helper!!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Got home from work a little early tonight and on the way home I stop and picked up a pair of legs for the extension wing table at Canadian Woodworkers. Cost me $60.00 and I was happy with them.

I also bought a Freud Insert Plate for the table and will use my PC 895 (sorry called it a 690 in photo by mistake)router in it. I have the Twin Pack for the PC 895 which comes with a bit height adjustment rod. Will have to drill a total of four holes in the plate to accommodate.

I know this is crazy but I found a piece of laminate in my bin that matches the inside color of the inner ring of the Freud plate. How sweet is that?

NOW here is my problem if I cover both top and bottom how do I get at the bolts to remove the table? Do I cut access slots? Sort of defeats the purpose of the torsion box.

This thing is solid and I am hoping it will not sag. The plate will rest on solid alder and on top of some rare earth magnets I will drill into the bottom side of where the level screws will rest.. This will serve for both support and help the plat sit securely inside the cut out. The magnets were a few bucks so I thought why not try it.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Dan,

can you just insert/glue the nuts/washers to the frame and the when you wanted to remove the table just back out the bolts?

have a captive nut?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Dan,
> 
> can you just insert/glue the nuts/washers to the frame and the when you wanted to remove the table just back out the bolts?
> 
> have a captive nut?


I am using a washer and locknut combination james but you may have something there. Maybe glue will work or better yet put in a threaded insert.

Thanks I will toy with the idea.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I changed my mind on the router pate. I dd not like the idea of having two holes in the router plate I had bought which was intended to be used by a Freud router. 

Instead I took the router plate back and opted for something different. To be honest I am glad I did what I did because it is nice to feel the beefiness of the Jessem plate compare to 3/8" Phenolic plastic. The bonus is the router motor I have (PC 890 2 1/4HP) fits right in to the lift.

I have cut some maple edge ban and will wait till the glue dries. I will have all day tomorrow in the shop minus cooking a Turkey dinner for some friend seeing the family is off in Jasper. 

Will get a good night sleep and post some more pictures tomorrow of my progress.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I got the extension table done today and had a few problems along the way. It is not 100% to my liking but I have learned a great deal when I redo this project down the road. 

For now though it will do.

Things I learned:

1) Invest in a steel straight edge to ensure your tabletop is dead flat. This gave me problems trying to level the router plate.

2) Make sure you put the slot cutter on the right way so it actually can cut using the carbide teeth and not burn the crap out of your wood.:sad: I initially put mine on back wards and chalk that up to my French heritage. :laugh:

3) I followed the direction in shop notes online extras Issue #85 but as you can see the corners did not work out. I will buy a template guide from Jessem to install the next top I make in the future. It will be $25.00 well spent.:angry:

4) Used an old piece of MDF that had been stored outside and it had a little cup in it. I would recommend starting with something dead flat why add to your problems if you do not need to.:bad:

5) I like the magnets I added to help the plate stay secure. It also lets the level screws stay put by sitting directly on the magnet apposed to digging into the MDF.

The only thing left is to buy some 4" casters to allow me to move the table saw and save me from buying another mobile base that accommodates the extension table.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

You can around that type of error by making your own template guide on the router table..note the round inside corners to match the router mounting plate..

note** use the same size trim bit as the bit you are going to use to cut out the hole (pocket/rabbit edge) with..(pattern bit) or use the 
Dado Clean Out Router Bits, your pocket hole will real flat and true, it's a plunge bit.. 
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_dado.html

Then get the scrap from making the template trim it up with table saw and stick it to the top, right inside of the template, to give the router nice flat spot to run on, then put your 1" brass guide or your 1 1/2" guide in the router and chuck up a 3/8" router bit and cut the hole out for the router to drop in ,all done with the same template, b/4 you removing the template make sure the lip is true than remove the template and your your done. 
I do suggest the 1 1/2" guide ,it gives you just a little more stock (meat) to sit the plate on.. 


=========


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## Soapdish (Jan 18, 2010)

Thanks, Bj, I learn something new every time I stop in here.


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## oldhippie1951 (Oct 1, 2010)

Automatic levelers? Where do I find these please?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Well after I read over the Shopnotes article Issue #85 (http://www.shopnotes.com/files/issues/085/installing-a-router-plate.pdf) 
I see where I made my error.

After I went to the Jessem site I read the specifications on their template and realized I used a 5/8" Pattern bit when I should have used a 1/2". Hence why I was out by a hair. The other mistake was the size of the bearing I had on the pattern bit. I needed a 3/4" bearing guide and not a 5/8".

See Jessem site:

03003 Routing Template For 9-1/4" X 11-3/4" Insert Cuttout

I should of did what I wanted to do initially and that is test this on a scrap piece prior to doing this on my finished piece. Lesson learned so I hope you all do not make the same mistake I did.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

oldhippie1951 said:


> Automatic levelers? Where do I find these please?


Sorry the legs are not automatic not sure why I typed that because you have to level them yourself. You can get the legs from General direct.


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## WolfCoug (Dec 2, 2010)

Hi,
I just got a PC 895 that I want to mount to my existing cast iron router extension on craftsman table saw. I can drill holes in the cast iron, but am really concerned about where to connect to the router. 895 base just has 3 tiny screws to hold the plastic base on. How is the 895 attached to the Freud Insert Plate?
Thanks,
Gary


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## WolfCoug (Dec 2, 2010)

I just read the rest of this thread. It appears the best (possibly the only) way to attach an 895 under the cast iron table is to fabricate a mounting collar to secure the base to the iron table.
Gary


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## brignonejt (Jan 6, 2011)

Nice Extension table. How are you attaching the fence again? are you building a new one or are you just building an auxilary fence to fit over your Table saw fence?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

joebrig said:


> Nice Extension table. How are you attaching the fence again? are you building a new one or are you just building an auxilary fence to fit over your Table saw fence?


Building another fence to fit over the exiting table saw fence. For the mean while I am using speed clamps and clamping on edge to act as a fence and it works well. I have another router table so if I need a fence I use that one.

The main reason I built this is to make doors and I wanted to have both bits setup to cut the rails and stiles for production work. Will save on setup time and still allow me to use the tablesaw as well.

Thanks for stopping in and saying hello.


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