# Quality of Edge Guides



## garycurtis (Sep 17, 2007)

Two of my routers have edge guides I've yet to use. What is the experience of people here on the forum regarding quality/rigidity?

I know that many factory products are junque. Assuming I would have much use for one, is the Micro Fence worth the money?

And are there problems with these fences flexing during heavy use?

This is my first day on the forum.

Gary Curtis

DeWalt 625
Milwaukee 5616
Makita 3616


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

If you have the Dewalt or PC guide I would say it would be fine. Mount a hardwood block on it to give a good straight and stable edge to ride on. Micro fence makes an awesome one but over kill unless you just want it  

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Gary

I have the ones below
Porter-Cable 42690 Edge Guide and the 42700 (for Models 100, 690, 691, 693, 891, 892, 893 Routers) 

http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-...41-0208429?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1190081324&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-...41-0208429?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1190081689&sr=1-1

It's true as a arrow but I have only used it one time and I have had both for about 5 years or so,,,it just takes up room in my drawer like Corey it's be over kill unless you use your router for hand work...alot of the time...

==========


garycurtis said:


> Two of my routers have edge guides I've yet to use. What is the experience of people here on the forum regarding quality/rigidity?
> 
> I know that many factory products are junque. Assuming I would have much use for one, is the Micro Fence worth the money?
> 
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

On a saw they are very useful, but I can't think of a time that I used one on any of my routers.


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## garycurtis (Sep 17, 2007)

On the whole, I won't be doing much hand-held work. But a few instances, Dados in particular, might warrant getting an edge guide for my Milwaukee 5616 that I just bought. I have a DeWalt 625 and I've got their brand of edge guide, but that thing is so big and heavy that I wanted a mid-sized router (2 1/4 hp) for the times when I'll haul it out of the router table.

The DeWalt is mounted in my WoodRat up on the wall. 

Gary Curtis


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

I agree with Corey...

Keep what you have... play with it... when you find yourself really using it, then consider changing, if you want to.   I use mine very little... hardly none at all...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Router edge guides were mostly done away with once inexpensive ball bearing guided bits were available. This is both a good and bad thing. Bearing guided bits can leave an impression on the edge of your wood. That doesn't happen with fences or edge guides. Edge guides are very useful when you want to cut flutes on table legs or columns and for some inlay work. Some edge guides are designed so you can flip them over and use them as circle cutting guides. Perhaps the best thing to say about them is this: When you need one, you need one.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike 

Did you know you can get square ball bearing for some of your router bits and then you will not see that nasty bearing mark on the wood.. that's hard to sand out 


===========


Mike said:


> Router edge guides were mostly done away with once inexpensive ball bearing guided bits were available. This is both a good and bad thing. Bearing guided bits can leave an impression on the edge of your wood. That doesn't happen with fences or edge guides. Edge guides are very useful when you want to cut flutes on table legs or columns. Some edge guides are designed so you can flip them over and use them as circle cutting guides. Perhaps the best thing to say about them is this: When you need one, you need one.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> Did you know you can get square ball bearing for some of your router bits and then you will not see that nasty bearing mark on the wood.. that's hard to sand out
> 
> ...


I still need to get one of those to try out. Nothing is as bad as the first router bits I had that had no bearing.. just the pilot molded into the bit. Those sucked big time and didn't take me long to get rid of those! 

Corey


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## garycurtis (Sep 17, 2007)

Regarding the Micro Edge, a $200 accessory. Peppered throughout Bill Hylton's revised WoodWorking with the Router are photos showing operations such as cutting a Mortise. The edge guide shown is the Micro Edge. 

I've already got an edge guide -- unused at this point - for my DeWalt 625. It looks well engineered and well built. The micro adjuster moves the fence 1/32" for each mark on the scale. Smaller increments would be easy.

My question, however concerns a different router. A Milwaukee 5616. It is the one I'd prefer to use because it is smaller and lighter than the DeWalt beastie. The edge guide made for it by Milwaukee has gotten horrible reviews. At $23, what can a person expect. 

As I said earlier, I won't be doing much hand routing anyway. Perhaps I should just build my own Edge Guide with a load of Plexiglass Acrylic stock I've got sitting in the shop. A few lead screws, some guide shafts and clamps, and I'd be in business. 

Gary Curtis


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Gary

I made one out of Plexiglass Acrylic stock and it works well for many router jobs.
The best part of the jig is the dado slot setup for book/cabinet/case work,just put in one slot and the next one is dead on for the next one.
Just drop it in the 1st.slot and then the next and so on.

see below


============



garycurtis said:


> Regarding the Micro Edge, a $200 accessory. Peppered throughout Bill Hylton's revised WoodWorking with the Router are photos showing operations such as cutting a Mortise. The edge guide shown is the Micro Edge.
> 
> I've already got an edge guide -- unused at this point - for my DeWalt 625. It looks well engineered and well built. The micro adjuster moves the fence 1/32" for each mark on the scale. Smaller increments would be easy.
> 
> ...


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## garycurtis (Sep 17, 2007)

The edge guide shown in Bill Hylton's book is the MICRO FENCE, not the Micro Guide as I wrote. Typing error. 

Gary Curtis


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

I'm waiting for my Milwaukee 5616-24 kit to arrive, and also looking at edge guides. I made good use of mine before my last 'shop hiatus,' and figure I will again now that I'm able to set up shop again.

The guide that I'd love to have is a Porter-Cable brand, the Micro-Adjust Edge Guide. (Sorry, too new to post a URL. )

I'm guessing that the brands/models each have their own take on rod diameter and spacing... and I doubt that PC would make one to fit the Milwaukee line, LOL.

The MicroFence does indeed look like overkill... unless I really find a BIG need for a guide and that level of accuracy. I'm seriously considering the Incra LS Super System, though...

('Gear' Acquisition Syndrome seems to apply equally to Guns, Guitars, and plain old Gear of any sort... and it's contagious too!)

Bob


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Gary
> 
> I made one out of Plexiglass Acrylic stock and it works well for many router jobs.
> The best part of the jig is the dado slot setup for book/cabinet/case work,just put in one slot and the next one is dead on for the next one.
> ...


Bob: how do you keep all the parts straight. That's the umpteenth jig of yours that we've seen here and every one has a packsac full of bits and knobs and screws and stuff. I can only think your wife must be fed up to have your stuff in the kitchen cupboards. I might suggest though, garage sales for used Tupperware square containers. Marvelous for storing bits and pieces.

;-)

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Allthunbs

Many of of my jigs are used in many diff.ways...or to say for more than one type of job..
I just take it down and use what I need then put it all back on the wall until next time..

I started doing that when I started to run out of wall space...to hang them up 
I now have 6 hinge jigs and that's next on the list to make it into one jig..  that can do 1/2" to 4" hinges in all formats...from the small boxes to the big doors.. 


=========


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Many of of my jigs are used in many diff.ways...or to say for more than one type of job..
> I just take it down and use what I need then put it all back on the wall until next time..
> 
> I started doing that when I started to run out of wall space...to hang them up
> I now have 6 hinge jigs and that's next on the list to make it into one jig..  that can do 1/2" to 4" hinges in all formats...from the small boxes to the big doors..


What an interesting philosophy. Can you list the combined jigs you've made and their uses for all of us?

I'll go at this from a different tack: I need to assemble a relatively complete wood working shop to move back home. When I get there I expect that I'll have major renovation work to do on a house somewhere. That means that I could have lots of work and no internet. By putting together skis, shiis, duplicators, pantographs and all the rest of these mountings, tools, jigs and fixtures, I'm availing myself of all your knowledge and experience once I'm off the 'net. Your list would provide me with unlimited insight into what is possible.

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Allthunbs

Gee, I don't know about that one, I have uploaded over 5000 items and I would say 1/4 of them are jigs,etc.  

You can see most of them in my gallery 

=====


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Allthunbs
> 
> Gee, I don't know about that one, I have uploaded over 5000 items and I would say 1/4 of them are jigs,etc.
> 
> You can see most of them in my gallery


But, that's the problem. 1,250 is too many. I figured if you listed only your "combined function" jigs, we could get a better grasp of what's important and go from there.

Thanks Bob.

Allthunbs


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The smart way to go is to build as you need them when it comes to jigs. The coolest jig on the planet with tons of adjustments serves no purpose until you need it for a job. Up until then it is just occupying space.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Mike said:


> The smart way to go is to build as you need them when it comes to jigs. The coolest jig on the planet with tons of adjustments serves no purpose until you need it for a job. Up until then it is just occupying space.


You're missing the point. It's not the jig that's important, it's knowing what the jig is for. It's like you define a problem. Now you can design a solution but if you can't define the problem, the solution will never exist.

I'm looking for the list of problems. I can design and build my own solutions as I need to if I can define the problem. If Bob has already combined solutions into multipurpose jigs, when I go to address that problem and build that jig, I will know to built it to allow for these other capabilities. Kind of like a universal baseplate that you can add stuff to over time.

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Allthunbs

I may just do that in time...lets start with just one the OP jig,called 
Mitre Gauge
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RTS-MGS-

I didn't make this jig but I did make one like it...
It can do many,many router jobs  not just a mitre, any time you need a sled you have one...lets take putting a lap joint on a 45 deg. board, that's a hard one without a good sled,, all that's needed is some boards clamped tot the top to use for guides, some will say I use tee track for that job but if you do you need tee slot bolts in the sled to hold the sled true, with clamped boards in place no track needed..

Lets take holding small parts the sled can do that job well and safe.
Lets take making R & S parts this sled can do that job very well also.
Lets take putting in sliding dovetail ,,,that can be tricky at best without this type of jig..

I would say this one jig can do about 30 router jobs that's just off the top of my head  

I don't buy many jigs but this one I had to have it's that good.. 

I would rate it 5 stars out of 5 stars  it's base on the KISS way..

I guess I will get off the soap box now and make a list of the jigs that can do more than one job.. 

One small note*** about jigs,,to me it's like having a full set of drill bits I may not use them all but if I don't have a full set I can use the one I need for the job...

===


======






allthunbs said:


> But, that's the problem. 1,250 is too many. I figured if you listed only your "combined function" jigs, we could get a better grasp of what's important and go from there.
> 
> Thanks Bob.
> 
> Allthunbs


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Allthunbs
> 
> I may just do that in time...lets start with just one the OP jig,called
> Mitre Gauge
> http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RTS-MGS-


Interesting choice. I have passed on this one in the past. Perhaps time to reconsider. 



bobj3 said:


> I didn't make this jig but I did make one like it...
> It can do many,many router jobs  not just a mitre, any time you need a sled you have one...lets take putting a lap joint on a 45 deg. board, that's a hard one without a good sled,, all that's needed is some boards clamped tot the top to use for guides, some will say I use tee track for that job but if you do you need tee slot bolts in the sled to hold the sled true, with clamped boards in place no track needed..
> 
> Lets take holding small parts the sled can do that job well and safe.
> ...


The worst part of it is in the US you only work in Imperial measure. In Canada, I've suddenly discovered that I need metric and Imperial tools. I thought I might use the ski rods for the duplicator. I don't have a metric drill set and I have a 12mm rod. Imperial "close enough" is too sloppy.

Ah well. onward and upward. More list please.

I'm building skis, template capability, shiis, extended baseplate, foot, circle/ellipse jig, duplicator (with oversized table for use with skiis as well,) (I'm going to forget the pantograph -- too fraught with problems), freehand sign baseplate, smaller template guides baseplate, and this is the start.

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi allthunbs

" The worst part of it is in the US you only work in Imperial measure. In Canada,"

That's very true,, it would be nice if we all could use just one system, I do like the metric system the best but don't tell Harry or Tom  I love to play with there heads a lot... LOL LOL but it would be nice if I could get them to drive on the right side of the road... 

" metric drill set " you may have check your number and letter drill bits 

The ski jig is one of the best jigs I have, it also can do many,many jobs that the router table can't do well,, it took me a very long time to get that down..I'm a bit hard headed sometimes.  just ask Harry 

But once I get it look out I will tell everyone how great the ski jig is, Harry doesn't like me to suggest full threaded rod but it opens just one more way to use the ski jig.....like putting in a slot in a board,,,that's always a bit hairy on the table router....you need to drop the stock on the bit and when the bit pops out of the stock it's time for the TP roll on the side of the router table...  the ski jig makes that job easy and safe...I do it all the time just for the fun of it in some scrap just to remind me how neat it is. 

===

=====










allthunbs said:


> Interesting choice. I have passed on this one in the past. Perhaps time to reconsider.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

HI allthunbs,

I have to second to what Bj said about the OP mitre gauge. It's one of those jigs that has multiple uses. If you take a real close and hard look at all the OP jigs. They all follow 1 rule. K.I.S.S. rule. I have all of OP jigs, haven't used them all yet but, in time I will. 

As for the "skis", I have a better understanding of them just from Harry and Bj. This is on the "to do" list. 

Cheers.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> That's very true,, it would be nice if we all could use just one system, I do like the metric system the best but don't tell Harry or Tom  I love to play with there heads a lot... LOL LOL but it would be nice if I could get them to drive on the right side of the road...


You are a masochist. Could you imagine the carnage with Harry driving on the right side. He's bad enough on the left! Hey, I looked at some of those box lids he made. They are just one continuous loop. Could you imagine if he drove that way?LOL



bobj3 said:


> " metric drill set " you may have check your number and letter drill bits


I inerited a broad range of bits from about a dozen complete sets of Imperial, several sets of numbered, part of a lettered set and even a few Worthington. Not one metric. This is in spite of the fact that my father worked in metric starting before the second war.



bobj3 said:


> The ski jig is one of the best jigs I have, it also can do many,many jobs that the router table can't do well,, it took me a very long time to get that down..I'm a bit hard headed sometimes.  just ask Harry


I don't have to ask Harry, I can tell you. I wrote a very thorough treatise on the benefits of smooth rod over threaded and you never even commented. That's hard headed LOL



bobj3 said:


> But once I get it look out I will tell everyone how great the ski jig is, Harry doesn't like me to suggest full threaded rod but it opens just one more way to use the ski jig.....like putting in a slot in a board,,,that's always a bit hairy on the table router....you need to drop the stock on the bit and when the bit pops out of the stock it's time for the TP roll on the side of the router table...  the ski jig makes that job easy and safe...I do it all the time just for the fun of it in some scrap just to remind me how neat it is.


I'm trying to figure this one out. The only way I can get a slot into a board is using a table and fence. I just tape my start and end points and away I go. That's how I built the skis. Far more accurate with table and fence then it is with skis. What's the TP roll?

Allthunbs


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

> What's the TP roll?


Toilet paper roll.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI allthunbs



" I don't have to ask Harry, I can tell you. I wrote a very thorough treatise on the benefits of smooth rod over threaded and you never even commented."

Well I didn't want to start something,,  I have used both, and the threaded is much better ....you can lock the skis and use the mount board as a guide to hold the router running true...it's true you can move the router and lock it down in place but in time the screws will nick the smooth rods and once they are they will hang up the router when you move it over not to say anything how much cheaper and essayer it is to make the ski jig with full thread rod...  anyone can go to any hardware store and get the hardware to make one for peanuts ...most don't have a tap and die set and they don't want to job it out to a machine shop..just for a jig,, it comes down to the KISS way of doing it.. 

" slot into a board " yes I did it that way for many years and used a 1/2 of roll of TP,,,,and change my shorts a time or two..  LOL I have like many others had the bit come right out of the top of the board and keep on coming out , the pro. Bob R. did it one day on the RWS show I was watching I don't know why they didn't cut it out of the show maybe to show it can happen to anyone  he made a small point about it but not to long...he press the point about getting the bit tight and he just about always has a push block on the stock but not that time and his hand was at the end of the board...just about to lift it up off the bit..

That can't come about with the ski jig, that's to say if the bit was not tight you are still safe and no need for the TP..

=======

I'm sure you saw the post by Ken about the TP he was dead on,, I also use it to blow my nose,,and wipe my glasses clean..so to say it comes in handy in the shop...not to say anything about wiping up the glue I use paper towes but the TP is always handy and I know where it's at all the time 

TP = great shop tool 

========



The ski jig makes it so easy and safe it will blow your mind and you will say the same as I ,how in the heck do I do without it for so long...
I have use the plunge router with a guide many times but it's just not the same as the ski jig...








allthunbs said:


> You are a masochist. Could you imagine the carnage with Harry driving on the right side. He's bad enough on the left! Hey, I looked at some of those box lids he made. They are just one continuous loop. Could you imagine if he drove that way?LOL
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> " I don't have to ask Harry, I can tell you. I wrote a very thorough treatise on the benefits of smooth rod over threaded and you never even commented."
> 
> Well I didn't want to start something,,


Ya, right. You work as hard at razzing Harry as I do. The day you don't want to start something will be the day your descendands pass on. I just bet you've left a few zingers in your will ;-)



bobj3 said:


> I have used both, and the threaded is much better ....you can lock the skis and use the mount board as a guide to hold the router running true...it's true you can move the router and lock it down in place but in time the screws will nick the smooth rods and once they are they will hang up the router when you move it over not to say anything how much cheaper and essayer it is to make the ski jig with full thread rod...


It's called a brass machine screw with a thumb top and it won't nick drill stock. ;-) Actually, the Hitachi won't let you get nuts too close to the lock down point on the router. I have to run sleeves over the threaded rod in order to run a nut tight to the router. Doesn't work worth a hoot for me.



bobj3 said:


> anyone can go to any hardware store and get the hardware to make one for peanuts ...most don't have a tap and die set and they don't want to job it out to a machine shop..just for a jig,, it comes down to the KISS way of doing it..


Actually, I followed your argument and tried it with threaded rod. I'm glad I use smooooooooooth rod. Much more versatile. Not restrictive like threaded rods 



bobj3 said:


> " slot into a board " yes I did it that way for many years and used a 1/2 of roll of TP,,,,and change my shorts a time or two..  LOL I have like many others had the bit come right out of the top of the board and keep on coming out , the pro. Bob R. did it one day on the RWS show I was watching I don't know why they didn't cut it out of the show maybe to show it can happen to anyone  he made a small point about it but not to long...he press the point about getting the bit tight and he just about always has a push block on the stock but not that time and his hand was at the end of the board...just about to lift it up off the bit..


I didn't get to watch that episode. But, that's why I have solid 2 x 4 skirts all around the bit trajectory on my table. I have lost a few bits due to inattention and every time it happens I get smart for a bit.



bobj3 said:


> That can't come about with the ski jig, that's to say if the bit was not tight you are still safe and no need for the TP..


Don't kid yourself. I've tightened bits and had them work their way loose. The Craftsman I had was great for that. That's how I broke the shaft lock, trying to tighten a loose bit.



bobj3 said:


> I'm sure you saw the post by Ken about the TP he was dead on,, I also use it to blow my nose,,and wipe my glasses clean..so to say it comes in handy in the shop...not to say anything about wiping up the glue I use paper towes but the TP is always handy and I know where it's at all the time
> 
> TP = great shop tool


TP = toilet paper? 



bobj3 said:


> The ski jig makes it so easy and safe it will blow your mind and you will say the same as I ,how in the heck do I do without it for so long...
> I have use the plunge router with a guide many times but it's just not the same as the ski jig...


Ok, we leave on an agreeable note. 

Allthunbs ;-)


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## garycurtis (Sep 17, 2007)

I was the original poster on this thread. Lucky me, I just found a brand new Micro Fence on eBay and won the bidding. And yesterday I went to a demo put on by Festool at the local lumber dealer. I have the Festool OF 1400 and haven't used it. Aside from showing me how the router works, we cut some Dado's using the Festool MFT table to clamp the wood.

I bought the Festool primarily to cut Dados. The tablesaw method is too "frisky" for my tastes. So I feel pretty well set in the router department to tackle a a lot more jobs. Thanks for the responses to this thread. The Micro Fence is the real deal.

Gary Curtis


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I have a pair of large routers. Similar castings, one is an old Elu MOF 177e, the other is a brand new DW625e. The difference in the weight if the fences is 40gms.My oldest is 515gms, one I bought to make up a pair to use when mortising and straddling the wood weighs 490gms. The new one with the DW625e is 475gms. The castings are thinner, the structural webs have been reduced.A money saving necessity?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

allthunbs said:


> Interesting choice. I have passed on this one in the past. Perhaps time to reconsider.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, but don't you also have Imperial letter and number sets that will fill in the gaps? 64ths sets get close, too.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

istracpsboss said:


> Yes, but don't you also have Imperial letter and number sets that will fill in the gaps? 64ths sets get close, too.


Sorry guys! I should have read the whole thread and looked at the date!

BTW, just to show you a silk purse out of a sow's ear. This was the only router I could find when I first came here. Came in a wooden box with a set of cutters for buttons. I still use it for quick small jobs that don't matter too much.
The pic shows it fitted with a Slovenian fine height adjuster and a Ryobi adjustable fence. There's a lot of interchangability between the parts of some manufacturers.

Cheers

Peter


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

istracpsboss said:


> Yes, but don't you also have Imperial letter and number sets that will fill in the gaps? 64ths sets get close, too.


Hi Peter:

Normally, yes. Except I don't have these other sets either. I'll just have to bite the bullet and start metrifying :-(

Thanks Peter.

Allthunbs


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Negative ! 
Don't conform to the evils of the metric system !


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Duane867 said:


> Negative !
> Don't conform to the evils of the metric system !


Conspirator :dirol:


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