# Making your own sub base plate



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Yesterday forum member BrianS and I built a couple of replacement sub base plates for his Craftsman router so it could use PC style guide bushings. The material used was an old plastic sign. Here is the process we followed:
Remove the sub base plate from the router and apply double sided carpet tape. Press it firmly on the material and rough cut to shape with a band saw. Using a pattern bit we cut the final outside shape. The next step was to drill the mounting holes. We used the large diameter hole saw to drill the recess just deep enough for the guide bushing to sit flush with the surface, then the smaller hole saw for the through hole. There is a small amount of material left around the through hole and we used a Forstner bit to clean this up. While you can use Forstner bits instead of hole saws I feel it is easier to align the holes using the pilot bit of the hole saws and this is critical for a good fit. Separate the sub base from your original sub base and countersink the mounting screw holes using a Forstner bit. Since this countersunk area is non critical we used a 1/2" bit as opposed to the factory 7/16" size. (If your router uses flat head screws then use a countersinking bit.)
The sizes of the center holes vary between PC style and the Router Worksop style from Oak Park. The large hole saw will be the overall OD and the small hole saw will be the through hole size for your bushings.


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## mountain monkey (Aug 17, 2008)

Awesome guys! I just may do this myself since I just can't decide which replacement base to buy for either of my two "stock" routers. And I love how you salvaged an old sign for the material. The possibilities are endless!

Josh


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## cbsjoez1935 (Mar 14, 2007)

Mike,

I like the idea of using the hole saw instead of the forstner bit, because of the advantage of the pilot hole bit. My problem is that the hole saws I have are for door locks and are way off size. Where did you obtain the 1-3/16" and 1-3/8" hole saws? I just wish some manufacturer (are you listning PC?) would make those size router bits and then cutting the holes would be a snap. My 2 bits worth (inflation you know).

Joe Z.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Here's a set for 8.oo dollars and it has the sizes you need, I use them all the time and they work great...
Just clamp the stock to the drill base table, drill a 1/8" hole then use the 1 3/8" bit then the 1 3/16" bit to drill the center hole out all the way..it's a very fast way and it works every time...and I'm sure once you do it a time or two it will be the last time you buy any base plates for the router or the router table..

Just a note,,, a square sub base plates are the best....then they can be used in many more ways, for a strait edge,to hold bearings on the corners for M & T sloting, etc.


http://cgi.ebay.com/5-pc-Set-of-For...50383QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262


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## cbsjoez1935 (Mar 14, 2007)

Bob,

Thanks for your help. I already have the proper size forstner bits. I felt it would be much simpler to do it with the right size hole saw. That's why I asked where Mike obtained those sizes.

Joe Z.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

The Hole saws are the hard way to do it . it can cut the 1 3/16" hole easy but when it comes to the 1 3/8 hole (recess hole it can't do it right,) it must be flat and true to hold the brass guide just right..

I also use a fly cutter that works well but a good set of forstner bits is the way to get the job done right plus you can make your own base plates to hold the big guides ( 1 1/2" x 1 3/4" ) Oak-Park/Lee Valley type and they do come in handy when you need to use a bigger bit ,like a 1" for just one of many... 

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=41778&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=BG-BGST-&product=BG034
http://grizzly.com/products/Round-Fly-Cutter-Set-3-pc-/H7537

========







cbsjoez1935 said:


> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for your help. I already have the proper size forstner bits. I felt it would be much simpler to do it with the right size hole saw. That's why I asked where Mike obtained those sizes.
> 
> Joe Z.


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## cbsjoez1935 (Mar 14, 2007)

Bob,

Thanks again for your help and good advice

Joe Z.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome Joe

I have made so many base plates I have lost track of how many...
I think it's one every week for the pass 2 years or so..  I now want to make one more now for the new router I just got, so I can drop it in one of the router tables>>>> ..

========

==========


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

For some reason my tagging of new postings is not working right and I missed this. Joe, I have a Lenox set of hole saws and most sizes are available from HD or Lowes. The advantage of using the hole saw is you chuck the 1/4" bit and plunge for a perfect center. Following with the hole saws is easy with this pilot hole. The larger saw is used first for the part way through cut and the through cut with the smaller saw cleans out the hole.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Thanks Mike,

You have saved me some dollars......

I will still go to Carba-Tec (Sydney) this weekend to get the bushing set.

(and I will have to check the sizes of my hole saws (probably metric 


James


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

I have been making some router bases.

One thing I noticed repeatedly was the error caused by slippage of the double sided tape. I got the tape from the hardware store. It appears to hold ok, but slid out of possition when actually doing the operation.

All bases have screw holes. So what I did was put some screws and bolts through the 
pattern and the blank with some bits of folded sandpaper in the sandwich. Having the screws ride above the surface was not a problem. *But* I am using a sacrificial work surface of masonite with zero clearance for the bit plus a fence with little of the bit exposed.

This was only way I solved the problem after having more than one bad attempt with tape only.

Caution should always be used in these procedures.


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

I have to add this note made several days later:


After a few attempts at base duplication which pulled the tape out of position I looked more closely at the image above. The tape in the image does not intersect with the bit path. My tape placement was not carefully done.

Still don't know if the tape placement will solve the problem of tape sliding. What I did to eliminate the problem without wasting more material was to screw and bolt through the holes of the template and blank and then do the shaping on a zero clearance sacrificial masonite work surface. Also had the fence up with a bit guard and waste extractor (homemade vacuum cleaner setup).

Wear eye protection and execute carefully as always.


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

When using the factory base plate as a pattern to route the new base, can they be stuck together using hot glue? Would this damage either of the base materials or be hard to pry apart?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi sofasurfer

Hot glue and tape suck  they will both let it move just a little bit and that you do not want.

Almost all base plates come with mounting holes, use them to make a new plate, 3 or 4 screws the norm, set the old base plate on the stock/plastic and drill the holes out put in some flat head screws with washers and nuts..then you are set to make a new base plate true and dead on..to drill out the center hole chuck up a 1 3/16" in the drill press with the old plate and new plate as one, line up the bit with the center hole clamp it down to the top and drill out the hole, if you want a pocket for the brass guides remove the old plate and chuck up a 1 3/8" bit in the drill press and drill it down 1/8" deep.. don't forget you have a front side and a bottom side..to the plate..the key is to use the 1 3/16" bit to line it up in the drill press.. 


=========



sofasurfer said:


> When using the factory base plate as a pattern to route the new base, can they be stuck together using hot glue? Would this damage either of the base materials or be hard to pry apart?


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

That actually did occur to me but everybody says tape, so...
Ok, I'll do the bolt thing.
Right now I'm practicing drilling the center hole. I drilled one and it is nice but its the wrong size. I don't have forstners that big so I am using one of those monsters in the pic.
So far its is a pain getting it sized and getting the outer cutters evenly spaced. Don't know if I can manage it or not.
Will a spade bit work? I kinda think so. I'll go out and try it. I don't have one that size but at least I can afford one of those.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi sofasurfer,

i cant remember where youre from, but you can get the forstner bits from peachtree for 7 or 8 bucks each. there is not anything that will compare with them for drilling out baseplates.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

The forstner bits are the way to go, you can find them all over the place for about 20.oo bucks (ebay) 1/4" to 2 1/8"..
The cutter you posted is good for the ruff cut outs and big holes but that's about it..I must have 5 or 6 of that type..
You can also pickup a hole saw set at the right price to cut out holes.
Harbor Freight Tools
but they don't cut real clean the norm..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/forset1.htm

http://cgi.ebay.com/DRILL-BIT-SET-1...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item2c52ff9856
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-16-Pc-Forst...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4ced870f1e

http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p4634.m38.l1313&_nkw=forstner+bit&_sacat=See-All-Categories
========



sofasurfer said:


> That actually did occur to me but everybody says tape, so...
> Ok, I'll do the bolt thing.
> Right now I'm practicing drilling the center hole. I drilled one and it is nice but its the wrong size. I don't have forstners that big so I am using one of those monsters in the pic.
> So far its is a pain getting it sized and getting the outer cutters evenly spaced. Don't know if I can manage it or not.
> Will a spade bit work? I kinda think so. I'll go out and try it. I don't have one that size but at least I can afford one of those.


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

I know that Levon, about the good work they do. I have a set that goes up to 1 inch. They are awesome. Believe me, if I could I would go buy a set.
I just drilled through the acrylic with a paddle bit. Very easy.
I need to file a 1-1/4 inch bit down to 1-3/16 inch and the bigger 1-3/8 inch will need to be dremiled out a couple tousanths, from what I can tell. And the pilot blade in the centers need to be filed to the same size and the outside cutters need to be filed off on the largest bit.
I think I'm on to something. We shall see.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

you dont have to buy a set, just check them out

http://peachtreeusa.com/

1 3/8 forstner bit- 7 bucks

it sure makes it easy!


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

sofasurfer said:


> I know that Levon, about the good work they do. ...We shall see.


Rather than try to drill through using the old baseplate as a guide (I think this is what I understood) I would suggest you get a set of transfer punches and transfer the centre point of each hole and drill without the baseplate in the way.

Did I guess right?


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## woodstover (Jan 6, 2010)

Good job and it's nice to recycle the old sign.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Also it's a good idea to have a scrap of wood under the plate when you drill.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Mike and Sofasurfer:

Thank you and very nicely done. 

How does one mark a thread for future reference?


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

Go it "edit" your post, or when you post a reply you will see an option called "thread subscription" below the posting text window.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

sofasurfer said:


> Go it "edit" your post, or when you post a reply you will see an option called "thread subscription" below the posting text window.


Bad communication on my part. I'm trying to bookmark this specific thread, not flag it for other responses. In the next six months I'm going to need this information, but not right now. I expect the thread will die out soon and I want to make sure I can get back to it. I've run into this before and even my browser bookmarks get sooooo plugged up that I can't find anything again. I was hoping that somewhere in my forum account was a place that I could inventory important (to me) threads, like part of my private messaging space or something.

Thanks for the try anyhow.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Ron,

Look under "Thread Tools" at the top of this page to subscribe to a thread


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

Simply bookmarks it like any other web page.
I have the same problem you do. My bookmarks get so overloaded.
Sometimes you just have to take a few minutes to create sub folders and rearange things. I have my woodworking bookmarks sub-divided into videos, tutorials, plans, forums and accessories.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

sofasurfer said:


> Simply bookmarks it like any other web page.
> I have the same problem you do. My bookmarks get so overloaded.
> Sometimes you just have to take a few minutes to create sub folders and rearange things. I have my woodworking bookmarks sub-divided into videos, tutorials, plans, forums and accessories.


I already have to drill to Australia to find the bottom.


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## rnewholm (Jan 24, 2010)

*Router base plate alignment*

I have a 35 yr old Craftsman and a 22 yr old Makita plunge router. I have always been disappointed in the misalignment between the stock bases, bushings and router bits.

Over the years I have had to replace base plates numerous times. My favorite material is 1/4"' Lexan which accommodates PC style bushings thicknesses.

The trick I use is to rough cut the base plate ~1/4" larger OD that the router, drill a 1/4" or 1/2" hole in the center depending on the collet size. I insert a piece of drill rod or the shank of a router bit into the collet, I then set the roughed out base plate on drill rod. I mark a set of match lines on the edge from the base to the router allow future alignment of the base then center punch the holes for the base plate screws.

I use the same drill rod in the drill press vise as a center point to drill the screw holes and to sand the outside OD down. I use pan head phillips or button head allen screws instead of filister head which requires recessing the plate with an appropriate diamater forstner or router bit.

Using a 1/4" four flute milling or router bit in the drill press I cut the recess for the PC bushing by turning the plate on the drill rod center. I use a 1 3/16" hole saw to finish the bushing hole.

By using the drill rod center to transfer all the points I am usually within 1/64" of center. By enlarging the mounting screw holes slightly I can shift the base plate to true center. The match lines help with the alignment.

I buy Lexan from US Plastics or McMaster Carr.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

To build a base just centered, I turn them directly on the router with a second router.
Ex:
I begin by setting a plate securely in the holes for that. With a bit mounted right on the router, I pierce the plate. I replace the bit by a rod of the stem collar diameter (for you 1 / 4 "or 1 / 2")
With a second router mounted on a compass whose stem is pierced with a hole the same diameter as the rod mounted on the first router, I mill the outside diameter and the center.
This way, everything is absolutely centered,


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

I owe a comment in here since I tried the double sided tape technique again. It worked better this time. 

--> It's important to not have the tape out to the exposed edges. That's where the tape will catch and bind and throw things out of register. That was my mistake.

I also did a little gentle clamping to make sure the blank and the patterns where in good contact.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

I want to welcome you to the RouterForums Roy. Thanks for registering with us. Hope you enjoy our community.


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## MikeGadsby (Jul 22, 2010)

Mike said:


> Yesterday forum member BrianS and I built a couple of replacement sub base plates for his Craftsman router so it could use PC style guide bushings. The material used was an old plastic sign. Here is the process we followed:
> Remove the sub base plate from the router and apply double sided carpet tape. Press it firmly on the material and rough cut to shape with a band saw. Using a pattern bit we cut the final outside shape. The next step was to drill the mounting holes. We used the large diameter hole saw to drill the recess just deep enough for the guide bushing to sit flush with the surface, then the smaller hole saw for the through hole. There is a small amount of material left around the through hole and we used a Forstner bit to clean this up. While you can use Forstner bits instead of hole saws I feel it is easier to align the holes using the pilot bit of the hole saws and this is critical for a good fit. Separate the sub base from your original sub base and countersink the mounting screw holes using a Forstner bit. Since this countersunk area is non critical we used a 1/2" bit as opposed to the factory 7/16" size. (If your router uses flat head screws then use a countersinking bit.)
> The sizes of the center holes vary between PC style and the Router Worksop style from Oak Park. The large hole saw will be the overall OD and the small hole saw will be the through hole size for your bushings.


thanks for your advice,Mike is my name and i am English and live in the UK !!


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

I took the advice given above to use a cone shaped shaft mounted stone to smoothe out countersink depressions in plexiglass.

The part was found at the local farm and fleet by a manufacturer called EazyPower Isomax. The description is vitrified aluminum oxide, contractor quality mounted stone A-14 Beveled cone with 1/4 shank. It's a hex shank for use in a drill press.

The angle is better for this kind of job than I've seen in v bits.

Cost was $1.99

:sold:


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## wadawgfan (Oct 16, 2010)

Thanks for these ideas. I stumbled across this forum today while searching the web for a way to do this very thing. I'm making a solid body guitar and needed a way to mount a template on top of the giutar body to hollow out the cavity for the pickups, control knobs and wiring. I think this will solve my problem. Keep your fingers crossed while I go make some wood chips and see what turns out.
Thanks again,
Tom (new member, Washington State, USA)


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## Micah (Oct 11, 2010)

*square baseplate with bearings*



bobj3 said:


> Hi Joe
> 
> Here's a set for 8.oo dollars and it has the sizes you need, I use them all the time and they work great...
> Just clamp the stock to the drill base table, drill a 1/8" hole then use the 1 3/8" bit then the 1 3/16" bit to drill the center hole out all the way..it's a very fast way and it works every time...and I'm sure once you do it a time or two it will be the last time you buy any base plates for the router or the router table..
> ...


Wow that picture is impressive to this novice! can you explain a "bit" about the use of the plate with bearings in the corners please ?


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

The ebay link didn't show up for me but there's another way to make the 1 3/16 1 3/8
cutout for use with the guides. I used two hole cutters on two thin pieces of plexi and then registered the two together. My reason for doing this was I was making a wide base for the marvel 3 in 1. 

A good tutorial on making a cross hair square base in Bill Hylton's "Router Magic" book. In that the whole process is explained. There is also a fractionated baseplate which allows one bit to make multiple incremental wider cuts from the router rather than additional setups.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Micah

The pins/bearing bolts on the corners, they are in place so you can use the router plate to put in mortise slots easy, all that's needed to turn the router and rub the pins on the lumber, it will put the slot on dead center of the lumber, the lumber can be 1/2" to 4" wide and it will always be dead on center every time...you don't need the fixture the wood vise will do the job..

==========



Micah said:


> Wow that picture is impressive to this novice! can you explain a "bit" about the use of the plate with bearings in the corners please ?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Lon

The real easy way is to use a router mounting plate, cut it down to size,in that way you have the best of both worlds,you can snap the right size into place or take them out if you want to use a bigger bit all with one base plate..plus you put the holes in the corners..that you can't do with the normal base plate.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...293026504-inlay-bushing-bit-help-100_1810.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...293026504-inlay-bushing-bit-help-100_1808.jpg

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loninappleton said:


> The ebay link didn't show up for me but there's another way to make the 1 3/16 1 3/8
> cutout for use with the guides. I used two hole cutters on two thin pieces of plexi and then registered the two together. My reason for doing this was I was making a wide base for the marvel 3 in 1.
> 
> A good tutorial on making a cross hair square base in Bill Hylton's "Router Magic" book. In that the whole process is explained. There is also a fractionated baseplate which allows one bit to make multiple incremental wider cuts from the router rather than additional setups.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

You will notice that BJ (Bobj3) and I have different opinions on the best way to drill out the center holes. Which way is the correct way? The answer is they both are correct; they both achieve the same results. How can this be? All of us have developed our own set of skills and methods. Which way should you choose? The method you are most comfortable with. Another example of this is the fact that you can make finger joints by hand sawing, on a table saw, band saw or with a router table. Please understand that the photo shoots I post reflect information on my preferred method to perform a task. They are a guide to assist members in performing a job, and other members add their thoughts so you can choose the way that is right for you.


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## radio_davio (Apr 28, 2011)

*Double Sided Tape*

3M makes VHB (very high bond) double sided tape that is used for things like holding high rise window glass in place. In the past, 3M has always been generous with samples. You might try VHB tape.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Using a piece of 3/8” Acrylic and cut to 12”x12” I located the center drilled first the 1-3/8” hole using a Forstner bit to the appropriate depth followed by using a 1-3/16” Forstner bit to drill completely through the Acrylic. Next I rounded the corners followed by using a 1/4” roundover router bit.

Can’t imagine anyone using hole saws due to needing a flat surface for the bushing to rest in, furthermore hole saws have a tendency to wobble out and not cut the correct diameter hole.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/10818-bogydave.html

===========



AzViper said:


> Using a piece of 3/8” Acrylic and cut to 12”x12” I located the center drilled first the 1-3/8” hole using a Forstner bit to the appropriate depth followed by using a 1-3/16” Forstner bit to drill completely through the Acrylic. Next I rounded the corners followed by using a 1/4” roundover router bit.
> 
> Can’t imagine anyone using hole saws due to needing a flat surface for the bushing to rest in, furthermore hole saws have a tendency to wobble out and not cut the correct diameter hole.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Keith, imagine it. Many sub base plates have come out of my shop and they work just fine. As with all woodworking there are often several ways to go about a project and they are all ok. The secret is to use what works best for you.


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

If you only have hole saws and no drill press you use what comes to hand. What I did was use two thin pieces of plexi and use the hole saws to make the cutouts and then used the two layers to build the base.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just one more way, just buy the rings and cut out a hole with a scroll saw (hand or motor type or a jig saw) 

Replacement Rings & Guide Pin
#9330 or #9329
Router accessories


========


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## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

*Sub Base Plate = Base Plate ?*



bobj3 said:


> You'er Welcome Joe
> 
> I have made so many base plates I have lost track of how many...
> I think it's one every week for the pass 2 years or so..  I now want to make one more now for the new router I just got, so I can drop it in one of the router tables>>>> ..
> ...


This thread is labeled "...Making your own SUB BASE plate..."

Is this the same as your "Base Plate" ?

Sorry for this "basic" question, but I am mixed up.....


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Yes Neil, I know it's a technical point but the base plate is beneath the base hence the sub base plate name. If you look at the photo under the sticky thread *guide bushing identification* you will see the old style Bosch guide bushing installed in a router like yours. You have to remove the plate to install/remove the guide bushing. Making one of these plates will save you lots of time and allow you to use the inexpensive brass PC style guide bushings.


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## johntdubya (Jan 5, 2012)

thanks for the info, I always learn something new from these post


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## johntdubya (Jan 5, 2012)

followed your link to the ebay site. item had been taken down, but was able to scope out other offers. thanks


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## LuckyNumber7 (Feb 4, 2012)

Thanks for the tutorial. I had to use it to make a larger sub base for my craftsman 320.27683 router. The one that is came with it has the 1 3/16" hole so I can use that for guide bushings. I made this one 1 5/8" so I could fit my 1/2" roundover and other bits through the hole. 

Made with 1/4" PVC sheet. Pretty cheap, I got a lot of it from the plastics company here. I can make more as I need them.


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## RCclee (Mar 31, 2012)

*Huh?*

Why is it that routers don't come with the right sub base plates to do the job? Why is it that you are forced to make one for yourself. Again, is it best to buy a "Porter Cable" router since that seems to be the default type of router for this type of work. Thanks for the help on this.


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## L Town Graphics (May 24, 2012)

Mike said:


> Yesterday forum member BrianS and I built a couple of replacement sub base plates for his Craftsman router so it could use PC style guide bushings. The material used was an old plastic sign. Here is the process we followed:
> Remove the sub base plate from the router and apply double sided carpet tape. Press it firmly on the material and rough cut to shape with a band saw. Using a pattern bit we cut the final outside shape. The next step was to drill the mounting holes. We used the large diameter hole saw to drill the recess just deep enough for the guide bushing to sit flush with the surface, then the smaller hole saw for the through hole. There is a small amount of material left around the through hole and we used a Forstner bit to clean this up. While you can use Forstner bits instead of hole saws I feel it is easier to align the holes using the pilot bit of the hole saws and this is critical for a good fit. Separate the sub base from your original sub base and countersink the mounting screw holes using a Forstner bit. Since this countersunk area is non critical we used a 1/2" bit as opposed to the factory 7/16" size. (If your router uses flat head screws then use a countersinking bit.)
> The sizes of the center holes vary between PC style and the Router Worksop style from Oak Park. The large hole saw will be the overall OD and the small hole saw will be the through hole size for your bushings.


Mike thank you for the how to! I just bought the materials to make this except I'm adding or going to attempt to add a twist to it. I plan on making one with wings to allow the addition of skis for straight routing (similar to a fence on a table router). I will post pics as I move forward with the process


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Ron, sorry I missed your post until now. The short answer is no. While PC style bushings are "standard" in North America there are better choices like the larger Oak Park/Lee Valley style brass bushings or the flat plastic/steel bushings used by many companies. The larger openings make it easier to see the bit and evacuate the chips and debris.


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## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

Hello Bob,

I am trying to figure out your 8" 'square' router base.

Why do you have bearings spaced 8" apart ?

You have a bit in the router. Is this for making "v" shaped grooves in 8" wide stock ?

I really enjoy your comments and tips. 

Please for give me for being so "green" with router templates and jigs.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Neil

Square is better than a round one I'm not sure who started to use a round one but they screwed up by not thinking it out all the way you can do so much more with a square one you could say you can drop you edge guide in the trash can and to make a cir.jig it's easy with a square base plate..Harry made one for his router and just put a slot in it..

Here's a small show and tell what can be done once you have a square base plate installed.. we all have a base plate installed on our routers why not let it do more than one job..

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2641-mortise-tenon-jig-plunge-router.html

==



neiltsubota said:


> Hello Bob,
> 
> I am trying to figure out your 8" 'square' router base.
> 
> ...


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## sbjforumman (Aug 30, 2012)

thank you for this. Works perfectly.


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## afgunny (Dec 25, 2012)

*baseplate*

Thanks Mike, I have an old B&D(20yrs) that only has the stock baseplate for mounting to a table and I couldn't find anywhere to get a new plate. You saved the day.


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## Jewstin11 (Dec 7, 2012)

Can anyone tell me what size the screws are that hold the base plate on? It's a Craftman 12.0 Amp 2hp plunge, new. 

I just got one as a gift, went to mount it on my table and stripped all the screws holding the base plate on. I have heard others had trouble with them, now I need to replace them and want to make sure I get the right size. Thanks!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Jewstin11 said:


> Can anyone tell me what size the screws are that hold the base plate on? It's a Craftman 12.0 Amp 2hp plunge, new.
> 
> I just got one as a gift, went to mount it on my table and stripped all the screws holding the base plate on. I have heard others had trouble with them, now I need to replace them and want to make sure I get the right size. Thanks!


Hi N/a.

What model router?

I can only imagine what pressure must have been used to strip ALL the screws.

Did you strip the screws or the threads in the base? Usually, the screws are made of harder material.

If the base is stripped, you may be able to tap what ever size you want into the base.


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## Jewstin11 (Dec 7, 2012)

JW2170,

Craftsman 320.27683 It was brand new out of the box. I am not new to a wrench, so I know cheap screws when I see them, blah. The screw head are stripped, so I am going to have to drill them out. Apparently, for this model, it is a common thing. 




jw2170 said:


> Hi N/a.
> 
> What model router?
> 
> ...


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## Steve Woody (Nov 5, 2012)

What's the best "see thru" material to make a router base from? I use a Bosch 1619 router.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Steve Woody said:


> What's the best "see thru" material to make a router base from? I use a Bosch 1619 router.


I prefer polycarbonate.. (Lexan)
Tuff stuff...
machines easily..
available from suppliers by the pound in smaller pieces.. (their drops)


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I just use 6mm acrylic.

See my recent post:\

http://www.routerforums.com/guide-bushings-templates/39218-new-base-plate.html


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

*Base Plate questions?*

I am thinking about making a new base plate for my old Craftsman routers so I can use PC style brass bushings. What thickness of material would I need, I think 1/4" would do. I would like to make it clear but don't know if plexiglass would trim well with a router and pattern bit. Also thought about maybe one of these white plastic cutting boards for material thou I think I would prefer clear and I do have a piece of 1/4" clear plexiglass. Some where on this forum I remember reading comments on the Harbor Freight PC style brass bushings but cannot find it again, anyone ever use these and what do you think of them? The ones from MLCS are only $5.00 more.
Bob


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Bob.

See my post above, and Mikes post at the start of this thread. 1/4" will be fine as the router will not be hanging from the plate, like it would if it was an insert plate for a table.

Acrylic is fine. I would not use the 'cutting board' material (HDPE)...as it is not fully transparent.


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

With 1/4" would I still need the 1 3/8" recess for the nut or is the thread on the bushing long enough to be fastened with the nut? Would a router trim bit be able to trim the acrylic with out a lot of chipping? I was thinking about cutting the acrylic on either a band saw or scroll saw close to size then trim with the router bit. The cutting board is not at all transparent, it is solid white.
Bob


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

You can do it the hard way or the easy way,just pickup the plate below and it's a done deal.

Milescraft 1201 Base Plate / Bushing Set for Routers - Amazon.com

===



tvman44 said:


> With 1/4" would I still need the 1 3/8" recess for the nut or is the thread on the bushing long enough to be fastened with the nut? Would a router trim bit be able to trim the acrylic with out a lot of chipping? I was thinking about cutting the acrylic on either a band saw or scroll saw close to size then trim with the router bit. The cutting board is not at all transparent, it is solid white.
> Bob


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Mine was 6mm acrylic, and I had plenty of space for the bushing flange.

I used Forster bits to cut the through hole and counter bore.


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

Ok, can I trim the plexiglass with a router and pattern or trim bit?


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

If its solid carbide or braized-on, makes no difference. Pattern bit ok for all plastic trimming.
But note, the third bearing (2 on the armature, 1 on the cutter) will introduce more chatter than none.


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

I saw last night that MLCS has a base plate that is supposed to fit most Sears routers and accepts PC style bushings and think I may try one. At $15.95 it is cheaper than buying the bits I need to make my own plate, at worst all I should have to do is drill 3 new mounting holes if it does not line up on my routers.  If it does not work out then I guess I will have to buy a couple of bits and get busy.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bob, what ever method you choose to use it is critical that the opening is centered to your routers shaft. You can do this with a centering cone or the $6 Rousseau centering kit. If you have an inlay kit they include a centering pin and instructions.


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

I was planning to order a centering pin from MLCS along with a couple of bits, for $6.95. What abot the brass guides from MLCS anyone ever use these.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bob, I prefer sets where the collar height is 1/4" on all the bushings. This allows you to use 1/4" or thicker material for your templates. Woodcraft and Lee Valley sell this type. The MLCS set requires more expensive 1/2" material.


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

Wouldn't a file and some elbow grease take that 1/2" down to 1/4". Or better yet a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel.


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## BORISIII (Aug 26, 2013)

On making the router base plate does it matter if the pattern bit has the bearing on the top or bottom to get the base you copying round thanks for any input


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi John, welcome to the forum.

Either way will work. Just make sure there is clearance under the work piece if using a bearing guided cutter.


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## BORISIII (Aug 26, 2013)

Thanks Jim


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## 9ninjas (Mar 1, 2015)

Mike said:


> For some reason my tagging of new postings is not working right and I missed this. Joe, I have a Lenox set of hole saws and most sizes are available from HD or Lowes. The advantage of using the hole saw is you chuck the 1/4" bit and plunge for a perfect center. Following with the hole saws is easy with this pilot hole. The larger saw is used first for the part way through cut and the through cut with the smaller saw cleans out the hole.


MIke,
New to the forum and was just reading your post on the router base. For the life of me, I can't figure out how you could use a hole saw to cut a flat bottom hole (that would be needed for the bushing to sit on). A forstner bit would obviously do this but I agree on your centering reasoning of using a pilot drill with a hole saw. But a hole saw would only cut a groove the width of the saw teeth and obviously not cut out a flat bottom hole for the bushing to sit on. I understand about the through hole (1 3/16"), that makes sense but the 1 3/8" hole using a hole saw just doesn't compute for me to give the needed flat bottom lip. Can you please help me understand. I watched your video but it was only of still pictures and not of the actual drilling.

Jeff (9ninjas)


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

I converted one of my MLCS bushings from 1/2" to 1/4" using a dremel tool and cut off wheel, then a few passes with a file and I now have 1/4" bushing. Now to do the rest of them.


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## 9ninjas (Mar 1, 2015)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike View Post 
For some reason my tagging of new postings is not working right and I missed this. Joe, I have a Lenox set of hole saws and most sizes are available from HD or Lowes. The advantage of using the hole saw is you chuck the 1/4" bit and plunge for a perfect center. Following with the hole saws is easy with this pilot hole. The larger saw is used first for the part way through cut and the through cut with the smaller saw cleans out the hole. 

MIke,
New to the forum and was just reading your post on the router base. For the life of me, I can't figure out how you could use a hole saw to cut a flat bottom hole (that would be needed for the bushing to sit on). A forstner bit would obviously do this but I agree on your centering reasoning of using a pilot drill with a hole saw. But a hole saw would only cut a groove the width of the saw teeth (unless they happen to be 3/32 wide) and obviously not cut out a flat bottom hole for the bushing to sit on. I understand about the through hole (1 3/16"), that makes sense but the 1 3/8" hole using a hole saw just doesn't compute for me to give the needed flat bottom lip. Can you please help me understand. I watched your video but it was only of still pictures and not of the actual drilling.

Jeff (9ninjas)


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

9ninjas said:


> MIke,
> New to the forum and was just reading your post on the router base. For the life of me, I can't figure out how you could use a hole saw to cut a flat bottom hole (that would be needed for the bushing to sit on). A forstner bit would obviously do this but I agree on your centering reasoning of using a pilot drill with a hole saw. But a hole saw would only cut a groove the width of the saw teeth and obviously not cut out a flat bottom hole for the bushing to sit on. I understand about the through hole (1 3/16"), that makes sense but the 1 3/8" hole using a hole saw just doesn't compute for me to give the needed flat bottom lip. Can you please help me understand. I watched your video but it was only of still pictures and not of the actual drilling.
> 
> Jeff (9ninjas)


Hi Jeff. When Mike and I made this base plate, we debated using either the hole saw, or a forstner bit for this purpose. I can't remember at this time why we decided to use the hole saw instead of the forstner, but the hole saw did the job we needed it for. I'm sure the forstner would have as well. The initial cut with the hole saw created the outside diameter for the guide bushing with an adequate lip for the bushing to sit on.


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## 9ninjas (Mar 1, 2015)

Brian, Thanks for your reply. The hole saw could have done the job, and obviously it did, but the only way it could have worked is that the width of the teeth was 3/32",(the difference in the radius between the OD and ID, otherwise you would have ended up with a wall between the OD and ID. So, instead of just cutting like an o-ring type groove, the hole saw was able to cut all the way out to the ID measurement of 1 3/16. In my mind, that is the only way a hole saw would work. 
I am just starting to get my shop set up and want to build a router table. Should I just do a search for router table on the site or do you have a good link you can send me to or a pdf or something.

Jeff


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Jeff, check this thread for all the info you could ever want, and probably a lot you don't. 

wanted-pictures-your-router-table

There are LOTS of ideas available here, and all of them work well for their builders. 

I personally use the Router Workshop table, which is no longer available. My insert plate is offset to one end of the table, others like it centered. No right or wrong way, just decide which way you think will work for you and go with it. Then when you build your second table, you can make any changes you think of.  I use a simple, home-made fence that I clamp to the table with c-clamps. Others prefer a commercially made fence with all the bells and whistles on it. Either way works, choice is up to you and how much you want to invest.


Just one more thing..... 

Google "router table plans". Lots of ideas and downloadable plans available.


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