# Oak Park box jig



## jtfoodguy (Nov 29, 2008)

I recently started woodworking and I bought the Oak Park box jig, I tried it out and I was wondering if its normal to get alot of tear out on some types of wood? I was using a 1/2" straight bit from a MLCS and a Bosch 1617 router.
I was trying to use some pine scrap that I picked up at a business that uses it to make crates for shipping. I was wondering if I get some decent wood, how long does it usually take to get good at box joints? I need all the help I can get.

Thanks
John


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

John, my experience with packing crate Pine is no better than yours. I've found that it's best to use a backer board when working with any wood that's prone to breakout. Here is a link to a post I did after testing the Oak Park jig for the first time, note that a decent pusher is essential for constantly good results. Do let us see some photos taken during the making of your first box, worts and all, this way members will be able to offer any help necessary together with praise when warranted.

http://www.routerforums.com/50925-post1.html


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi John,

As Harry already stated, a backer push board will give you the best results, even on questionable wood. Sounds like the rest of what you are using should do just fine.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi, 

You need to use a backer board/push block. And no offense to the straight bit but, try using a spiral bit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Just a add to the other post 
If you watch Bob R. you will note that he will use thin stock ( 3/8" or 1/2" ) the norm,,,he knows that he asking alot from the bit to make one pass in the stock for the joint...and he almost always will use the 3/8" jig,, I don't recall seeing him use 1/2" bit and 3/4" thick stock..if you do you are ask the bit to do alot of work by pulling that much out in one pass,,,it just can move it out that fast and will build up just a little bit on the out side of the bit and will push the stock out of it's way ( chip out/rip out) pine is very soft and will give in the presser of the bit... so to say if you make 2 or 3 passes your joint will come out clean, don't rush the job once it's done you can't put it back in place... like they say haste makes waste ,this is very true for the box joint....if you don't want to slow down you can use the sandwitch way,,this will support the pass on both sides of the board,,,and help keep the wood filbers from being ripped out by the bit...1/8" or 1/4" MDF works well for the sandwitch way....but it must be clamped up very tight .

below you will see a micky mouse drawing that may help 

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jtfoodguy said:


> I recently started woodworking and I bought the Oak Park box jig, I tried it out and I was wondering if its normal to get alot of tear out on some types of wood? I was using a 1/2" straight bit from a MLCS and a Bosch 1617 router.
> I was trying to use some pine scrap that I picked up at a business that uses it to make crates for shipping. I was wondering if I get some decent wood, how long does it usually take to get good at box joints? I need all the help I can get.
> 
> Thanks
> John


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

lots of us less experienced woodworkers dont think of tearout going into a workpiece. this simple drawing of bobj's is valuable in teaching newcomers about router bits.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

To add to Bj's reply. If you pay real close attention, Bob & Rick both use spiral bits and not the straight bit. The bit itself will make a difference in tear-out.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj's post reminds me that most tools that spin have positive and negative forces and results. when i got my belt-disc sander i decided to try it out. when i used the disc sander, i quickly found out on one side of the disc it holds your workpiece down, on the other side it pushes it up.to someone who has had these tools for awhile, its just a fact of life. to an inexperienced woodworker, its a learing experience.


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## Greeneyedeagle (Feb 15, 2009)

I too noticed that they are using a spiral bit and the whole time I was thinking about a straight bit. But... does anyone think it would be better to use a upward or downward spiral bit? Not sure since the router is mounted in the table upside down. It seems that a bit that would pull the bits downward out of the way would be better than the opposite. Comments?


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## jtfoodguy (Nov 29, 2008)

Thanks for all the replies, I will try again next weekend and let you know how it goes. That's what I love about these forums is the wealth of knowledge. I tried to cut the same piece of wood on my scroll saw and it tore chunks out on it too.

Thanks
John


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI John

You are putting the slots in with the grain right, not across the grain..

If it tore out chunks on the scroll saw it's time to replace the blade 

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jtfoodguy said:


> Thanks for all the replies, I will try again next weekend and let you know how it goes. That's what I love about these forums is the wealth of knowledge. I tried to cut the same piece of wood on my scroll saw and it tore chunks out on it too.
> 
> Thanks
> John


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Greeneyedeagle said:


> I too noticed that they are using a spiral bit and the whole time I was thinking about a straight bit. But... does anyone think it would be better to use a upward or downward spiral bit? Not sure since the router is mounted in the table upside down. It seems that a bit that would pull the bits downward out of the way would be better than the opposite. Comments?


Hi,

They each have their uses. I prefer upcuts. Straight bits also have their purposes but, I favor more towards the spiral bits. Cleaner and smoother cuts with them.


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## jtfoodguy (Nov 29, 2008)

*bobj3*

After playing with the wood on the scroll saw I noticed upon further inspection the wood feels and acts like its dehydrated like balsa and chips out when you try to do anything with it. I did put a backer board behind it when I ran it through the router but it's just not the right kind of wood. I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the helpful hints.

Thanks
John


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## jtfoodguy (Nov 29, 2008)

*harrysin*

I will post pictures of my handy work this weekend, I was just trying it on scrap wood to see how the jig works. I'm gonna try it on a box this weekend. I appreciate the link to your work. I've been admiring your work for a while on this site, and I value your suggestions.
Thanks
John Talley


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

You're Welcome 

I was going to ask if you where using balsa wood, but said no way is he using that stuff... it likes to rip/chip out very,very easy ...

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jtfoodguy said:


> After playing with the wood on the scroll saw I noticed upon further inspection the wood feels and acts like its dehydrated like balsa and chips out when you try to do anything with it. I did put a backer board behind it when I ran it through the router but it's just not the right kind of wood. I can't tell you how much I appreciate all the helpful hints.
> 
> Thanks
> John


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