# Kitchen Re-do



## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

I cannot put it off any longer, my wife wants our kitchen remodeled. We’ve agreed to update the cabinets with new doors, drawer fronts, drawer slides & hinges. I’ll do all the work myself (with my router & Shopsmith).

Our current cabinets have a face frame and both doors and drawers have a full overlap. We prefer inset style to the overlap. 

The drawer slides will have to be the center mounted type as there is insufficient room on the sides for, the preferred, side mounted full-extension slide.

I’m not sure how to line up the drawer fronts or doors????

I’m interested in any feedback from those who have tacked this sort of project. (I think it’s a different set of problems to putting in new stuff.) 

There was a suspended ceiling in the kitchen which has been removed. So I’ve got this 12” space above the existing cabinets. What’s the best use of this space? We have a bloody small galley kitchen and need all the space we can for storage. But that seems like a very awkward area to build in a cabinet.

Should I pull out the existing cabinets to do the floor or work around them?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Berry

Let me say right up front, remodeing is a nasty job,it's best to build a new cabinet(s) and start over.....The screws don't come out,they snap off all the time or strip out when you remove the doors or other hardware, you will have a hard time getting to the face frame if they put it in from the back side.some used nails some used staples/screws to hold the face frame on, and the face frame is the base for most cabinets with doors and drawers.
You can also made new drawers to fit what you have now if you want, see the video,and use the standard drawer guides.


"I’m not sure how to line up the drawer fronts or doors????" = I Recommend you send off for a video b/4 you start, Marc Sommerfeld made a great one (video) and once you see it, you will say OK I can do that..  It will show you how to do all you want from A to Z.

You don't need to use or buy his bits but I do recommend them and you will see why once you see the videos .
You can get a free video if you buy a item over 20.oo dollars from the web site,like his T & G set, it's bit high in price but it's neat and it works great,you can be a pro. with the 1st cabinet you make with them.

Cabinetmaking Made Easy DVD

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=4
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=1
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/category.asp?id=6
T & G set below ▼
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=202

This is a great tool 
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=175

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/specials.asp

Hope this helps

Bj


----------



## mpphoto (May 7, 2006)

I bought 2 DVDs for $9.90 each and got a free video. I think now you can get a video with any purchase. Can't wait to see these...

Thanks for the tip.

Michael


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome Michael

I'm sure you will enjoy viewing them just like I do all the time, with the tips from Bob & Rick and now Marc S. it's great to have the pro. show and tell how to rework trees into furniture   the quick and easy way.

Bj


----------



## fibertech (May 7, 2005)

I recently finished a process very similar to what you are describing. I did not replace the face frames. I did buy new solid oak doors. I made my own drawer fronts using 7/8 solid red oak. I have a Shopsmith and router table. For 19 oak doors, it was around $900. I made 8 drawer fronts using just a 1/2 quarter- roundover bit. The Blum hinges were all reused- make sure to get a centering drill bit for the hinge screws. that's about $10 very well spent. We bought new appliances and I converted a 24" pantry to a double oven, piped in gas to where the old stove was and put in a cooktop. I built a frame / cabinet for the cooktop out of oak with an open shelf on the bottom to display the little misses' stuff. 
Whichever material you use can be matched to the face frames at a GOOD paint store- not the box store variety. I can also send you before and after pictures as well as the link for the cabinet doors. That took about 6 weeks to be made and shipped out of Ontario Can. We put about $7000 into the kitchen and figure it would have cost around $20,000 to have it done. Best of luck. -Derek


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Berry

Just a tip to help you save a bit of money  on the doors..

Just one of the ways to beat the high price of bits and stock

You may want to check out the links below, I found the main link on the RWS FORUM (Advertise) they have some great deals on panels,most are much less than the cost of the oak/maple, that it took to make them.
Most are bems or not sq.by a 1/64"to 1/32" but that's not a big deal with the right type of hing.(35mm pocket type)

Bookmark this one just incase you need some quick panels,all you will need to do is make the face frame to fit and you got it done.

North State Sales

http://stores.ebay.com/North-State-...-Doors_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ7QQftidZ2QQtZkm

http://stores.ebay.com/North-State-Sales/Oak-Cabinet-Doors.html

Just a NOTE*** you need to check on shipping cost for the panels they can be high 

Bj


----------



## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I have done two bathroom remodels and a kitchen floor, all of which I put ceramic tile down. I always put the tile up to the cabinets, not under. If you are using anyother flooring material, especially vinyl, I would do the same as well.


----------



## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

I'm getting some great ideas and resources and want to thank ALL of you for your input.

I intend to leave the face frame in place. We planned on painting it with milk paint (my partner loves the earthly look). That actually raises another question, milk paint spots with water. Well in a kitchen it'll get wet before the end of Day 1 - so I need to put a clear coat over the paint and in order to keep the look it needs to be a flat or matte finish, suggestions?

I'm going to make the doors and drawer fronts from Cherry (I picked up a load at a garage sale). For the panels I'm planning on 1/4" cherry ply. No raised panels, real plain and simple (like me).

Re makeing the drawers to accomodate the better drawer slides sounds doable. I've got an old craftman dovetail jig I've used for a couple of projects that might work fine for this.

I know the cook would luv a double oven. Derek, if you have time in the next few weeks to post some pics that would be great. 

I'll order that sommerfeld tools dvd this weekend. 

I'll be checking this thread for ideas and suggestions. As my son would say, "you guys rock".


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Berry, you may consider placing some "soft lighting" hidden on the top side of your cabinets if you will still have that much space to fill.

"Should I pull out the existing cabinets to do the floor or work around them?"
Unless you intend on placing down an entire new floor, no. Simply work up to the cabinets leaving them in place.

Other advice... patience, and more patience and be prepared for the "unexpected".


----------

