# Saw Blade Cleaning



## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Of course everyone enjoys cleaning the saw blades and getting the pitch off so we get a cleaner cut but it can be messy. I use CMT Formula 2050 Blade and Bit Cleaner and find it does a very good job. I also use a small nylon brush to help clean the gullets and any stubborn dirt after letting it soak for a few minutes. There's little to no odor and it's environmentally safe. The only thing I could find to lay the blades on was a few cheap plastic platters that have a raised edge. I only soak and clean 1 blade at a time so this is fine except that platter is fragile. Has anyone found a decent plastic round container that will hold at least 10" blades and maybe even the 12" (compound miter saw) blades that doesn't cost $30 just for the container? It would be great if there was a tight fitting cover so the solution that's left could be used again. Unless it's really dirty I find the cleaning solution will last a good while and clean quite a few blades.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

sreilly said:


> Of course everyone enjoys cleaning the saw blades and getting the pitch off so we get a cleaner cut but it can be messy. I use CMT Formula 2050 Blade and Bit Cleaner and find it does a very good job. I also use a small nylon brush to help clean the gullets and any stubborn dirt after letting it soak for a few minutes. There's little to no odor and it's environmentally safe. The only thing I could find to lay the blades on was a few cheap plastic platters that have a raised edge. I only soak and clean 1 blade at a time so this is fine except that platter is fragile. Has anyone found a decent plastic round container that will hold at least 10" blades and maybe even the 12" (compound miter saw) blades that doesn't cost $30 just for the container? It would be great if there was a tight fitting cover so the solution that's left could be used again. Unless it's really dirty I find the cleaning solution will last a good while and clean quite a few blades.


Rubbermaid/Tupper ware type pie saver/keeper...
and who says they have to be round???


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Stick486 said:


> tupper ware type pie saver/keeper...


I had searched for these before but the tapered shape and the $$$$ far exceeds practical use. The best I could find were used and the cost plus shipping was far excessive for it's intended use. I appreciate the effort but it just doesn't make sense to spend that much and it still won't do the 12" blades. I had hoped to see something at this years State Fair but of course that was wisely cancelled.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

I found a 16'' round at DAV for 50¢....
my square cupcake keeper is 14½''... from target...
IIRC - about 10 bucks


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

I cheap out and use Totally Awesome cleaner that is $3. a gallon at the dollar store (best cleaner I have ever used) and a cheap cookie sheet that can be had for about $17.00 for 3 on Amazon.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

The round Tupperware was about $36 on Amazon, the Rockler tray is $30. I found a 10 inch pie keeper, but not a 12 inch. Cheapest was about $20. 

Found a 14 inch round aluminum cake baking pan for $17 on Amazon. 2 inches deep, no cover. https://www.amazon.com/Fat-Daddios-...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

go to a dollar type store and pick what ya need...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Look at Good Will or St. Vincent they have lots of used stuff cheap.
Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Look at Good Will or St. Vincent they have lots of used stuff cheap.
> Herb


and ARC and DAV....


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> and ARC and DAV....


Don't recognize those are they gas stations?
Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I always try the Dollar Store first for this type of stuff. The Thrift stores are likely even better for the frugally inclined.
I never think of going to the Salvation Army thrift shop here but people keep telling me there's real bargains there.
Lots of fairly wealthy retirees up here, and when they depart their high end belts and silk ties end up at SA.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Don't recognize those are they gas stations?
> Herb


ARC - like the goodwill ...
DAV is Disabled American Veterans...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Pour the semi used liquid into another container until you need it again. I'm going to give WD40 a try next time I need to clean blades. I used my Trend stuff till now but it still leaves a sticky residue on the blade. WD 40 took that off so I'm wondering if it will work for the whole shebang. $35 a gallon here.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> I always try the Dollar Store first for this type of stuff. The Thrift stores are likely even better for the frugally inclined.
> I never think of going to the Salvation Army thrift shop here but people keep telling me there's real bargains there.
> Lots of fairly wealthy retirees up here, and when they depart their high end belts and silk ties end up at SA.


Yes, forgot about them,another good choice, plus we also have the Humane Society thrift store too.
@ Stick486
Thanks should have guessed those. We don't seem to have those here, but I get their solicitations in the mail regularly.
HErb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Bob Adams said:


> I cheap out and use Totally Awesome cleaner that is $3. a gallon at the dollar store (best cleaner I have ever used) and a cheap cookie sheet that can be had for about $17.00 for 3 on Amazon.


5 gallon bucket lid...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Since we're on a race to the cheapest. Dig a depression in the dirt and line it with some plastic trash bags. :wink:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> Since we're on a race to the cheapest. Dig a depression in the dirt and line it with some plastic trash bags. :wink:


that teeth will poke holes in and allow the cleaner to leak out...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Put a piece of Dollar Store cutting board in the bottom. It's a joke.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

use the lid..
the center raised portion will raise up the blade and let cleaner get to the underside easily...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> Since we're on a race to the cheapest. Dig a depression in the dirt and line it with some plastic trash bags. :wink:





Stick486 said:


> that teeth will poke holes in and allow the cleaner to leak out...





DesertRatTom said:


> Put a piece of Dollar Store cutting board in the bottom. It's a joke.


you posted the suggestion...
and sure as green apples somebody will think it's a great idea and go for it...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

DesertRatTom said:


> Since we're on a race to the cheapest. Dig a depression in the dirt and line it with some plastic trash bags. :wink:


And there's a problem with finding the most economical solution? Maybe you could elaborate.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

look for a large frying pan w/lid or the like at those thrift stores...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I have an extra garbage can lid fro the dust bin for the DC, It is galvanize, will that work?
I will have to check at Harbor freight and see what they got..............
HErb


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> And there's a problem with finding the most economical solution? Maybe you could elaborate.


Notice the winking Smillie? It was offered in jest. Lots of good ideas offered up.


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## thomas1389 (Jan 4, 2012)

Shrink wrap, cling wrap or whatever it's called. For the lid.


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

I use the lid from a five gallon bucket... and trend spray blade cleaner with a plastic detail brush, hardly any effort. Rinse with hot water and wipe the blade. Drip dry the lid, then store the lid in a drawer. Works for me... durable and easy.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

@sreilly

Go to Big Box garden center...flower pot bottoms that you put under flower pots so as not to leak water on the floor...REAL CHEAP ! Any size you want...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> @sreilly
> 
> Go to Big Box garden center...flower pot bottoms that you put under flower pots so as not to leak water on the floor...REAL CHEAP ! Any size you want...


what about the lid???


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## roxanne562001 (Feb 5, 2012)

sreilly said:


> I had searched for these before but the tapered shape and the $$$$ far exceeds practical use. The best I could find were used and the cost plus shipping was far excessive for it's intended use. I appreciate the effort but it just doesn't make sense to spend that much and it still won't do the 12" blades. I had hoped to see something at this years State Fair but of course that was wisely cancelled.


I was going to say Tupperware also. I have found several pieces at our local thrift shop / Goodwill or Salvation Army stores for cheap. Here is one on Ebay but I bet if you check out the thrift shops you can find one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tupperware-12-Round-Cupcake-Pie-Cookie-Carrier-Keeper-242-with-Lid/164333684475?hash=item26430d06fb:g:wasAAOSw-DhfM0GD


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

gmercer_48083 said:


> I use the lid from a five gallon bucket... and trend spray blade cleaner with a plastic detail brush, hardly any effort. Rinse with hot water and wipe the blade. Drip dry the lid, then store the lid in a drawer. Works for me... durable and easy.


I bought a few 5 gallon buckets at HD. I use the buckets to store my longer cut offs, I use the lids to clean my table saw blades. They fit perfectly in the top of the lid and the top has a lip around it to prevent drips. I spray the blade, use an old tooth brush for any of the stubborn stuff then rinse under warm water and dry with a paper towel. Since I'm spraying on the blade and bit cleaner I don't save it. 8 oz bottle lasts me years but I'm a hobbyist so don't need to clean the blades daily or even weekly, sometimes. I cut almost exclusively hardwoods and some plywood and change blades for rips and crosscuts, having several blades for each. If I only used a combination blade or cut more softwoods I'd have to clean the blades more frequently.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Barry747 said:


> I bought a few 5 gallon buckets at HD. I use the buckets to store my longer cut offs, I use the lids to clean my table saw blades. They fit perfectly in the top of the lid and the top has a lip around it to prevent drips. I spray the blade, use an old tooth brush for any of the stubborn stuff then rinse under warm water and dry with a paper towel. Since I'm spraying on the blade and bit cleaner I don't save it. 8 oz bottle lasts me years but I'm a hobbyist so don't need to clean the blades daily or even weekly, sometimes. I cut almost exclusively hardwoods and some plywood and change blades for rips and crosscuts, having several blades for each. If I only used a combination blade or cut more softwoods I'd have to clean the blades more frequently.


The process seems straightforward but rinsing in water seems counterproductive as it would/could eliminate the protective coating that the cleaner, at least mine, leaves. The directions on the CMT cleaner reads:

" Formula 2050
Finally a safe, environmentally-friendly cleaner that is more effective than all those hazardous chemicals used for cleaning cutting tools.

Saw shops know how to get the most out of cutting tools. They know that the pitch and resin left by wood on tools greatly shortens the useful life of carbide. Therefore we asked many blade sharpeners to test Formula 2050 and they rated it as an excellent product. Most blade and bit cleaning products work with dissolving action, but it takes some power and nasty chemicals to dissolve wood residues and adhesives. CMT’s non-toxic and safe Formula 2050 penetrates the microscopic cracks in the resin and attacks the bond between carbide or steel surfaces and the resin itself. Formula 2050 keeps your tools clean and helps you increase the life span between sharpening and replacement.

-Removes pitch, resin and adhesive residue from all woodworking cutting tools (saw blades, router bits, drill bits, shaper cutters, planer blades, etc.).

-Completely non-toxic, non-flammable and certified biodegradable. Formula 2050 is a safe, earth-friendly product.

-Do not rinse after cleaning. Formula 2050 provides protection from rust and corrosion. Keeps your table saw top rust free too!

-Can be applied by spray bottle or used in ultrasonic cleaners and dip tanks.



This product received a five-star performance rating from "Wood® Magazine".

I've used this product a number of times and it has a faint non offensive odor, is easy on the hands, and cleans quite well. I usually soak the blade for a minute or two and then use a nylon brush to lightly go over the teeth and gullet area, flip over and do the other side. I'll inspect the blade for any resistant pitch and so forth and use the brush again if needed. Lay the clean blade on an old towel and wipe dry. Store back in it's blade holder and put in the cabinet. Typically maybe 3-4 minutes per blade. I usually clean the blades when I see that brown coloring on the teeth and or what looks like burning on the wood, the light brown not dark. The dark is indeed burning while the light brown usually a result of the dirty blade. 

A friend had recently complained about his Woodworker II 48 tooth blade not giving him clean cuts and felt it needed sharpening. He brought it over and I cleaned it, then installed it on my table saw cutting white oak, mahogany, and poplar. Was a total surprise to him. Hopefully he'll clean his own blades now.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

roxanne562001 said:


> I was going to say Tupperware also. I have found several pieces at our local thrift shop / Goodwill or Salvation Army stores for cheap. Here is one on Ebay but I bet if you check out the thrift shops you can find one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Tupperware-12-Round-Cupcake-Pie-Cookie-Carrier-Keeper-242-with-Lid/164333684475?hash=item26430d06fb:g:wasAAOSw-DhfM0GD


Ordered one just like it. Thanks Roxanne!


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

sreilly said:


> The process seems straightforward but rinsing in water seems counterproductive as it would/could eliminate the protective coating that the cleaner, at least mine, leaves. The directions on the CMT cleaner reads: ...


Steve, you're probably right about the rinsing. The Blade and Bit cleaner I use says wipe dry but also does not indicate that it provides any additional protection. I do use Boshield T-9 for that but not on my blades. I will try that to see if it helps to decrease the build up on the blade. Due to back issues and a cataract removal, I've been out of the shop for a couple of months. The FL heat and humidity have also contributed to that since mine is a garage shop. My first foray back into the shop will be at the end of this week and I'm guessing that my rip blade will need to be cleaned. I'll wipe the blade dry that hit with the T-9. Here in Florida rust (and mold) are a constant threat. I've used several different protective sprays on the cast iron surfaces of my jointer and band saw but lately I've just been using Johnson's paste wax and haven't had any problems. What do you use on cast iron?


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

I have used the Boeshield products to clean off any rust spots that appear and then use Johnson's Bowling Ally Wax. If no issues arise I may later spray some Bostik Glidecote when the surface gets less slippery.


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## roxanne562001 (Feb 5, 2012)

sreilly said:


> Ordered one just like it. Thanks Roxanne!


Glad to be of assistance


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

sreilly said:


> I have used the Boeshield products to clean off any rust spots that appear and then use Johnson's Bowling Ally Wax. If no issues arise I may later spray some Bostik Glidecote when the surface gets less slippery.


I also use Glidecote. Wasn't aware of the bowling ally wax. Just looked it up. Pricey compare to the regular stuff. Must be high in Carnauba wax. I use that in my cutting board wax recipe to balance the softness of the bees wax. A can of the bowling ally wax would probably last me into the next life which probably isn't all that far way from where I'm looking at it.:smile:


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Of course there's also just the SC Johnson's Paste Wax as well. The main thing is it not having silicon if I remember correctly. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this.....


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## Grinaker (Apr 1, 2012)

Another option for a pan is pie container. They have 10" pies at Sam's Club for $7-$9 and larger pies on occasion.










Worse case scenario, the plastic is punctured and you "need" to buy another pie.


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## bfblack (May 2, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> 5 gallon bucket lid...


I agree with Stick. Bucket lids work great for up to 10" blades. Be careful when you purchase a lid because not all lids will have a cross section that works well for blade cleaning. In my case, the top side of the lid worked best.

Years ago, an experienced woodworker gave me a small jar with "Sal Soda" that he used to clean his saw blades. At the time, I never questioned to origin of Sal Soda but it appears as if it was a likely laundry product of Arm & Hammer. Once when I tried to use this product, I used a bucket lid with water in it and submerged the saw blade. It took me longer than expected to find the Sal Soda and by the time I returned to the blade, there was all kind of gunk that had floated to the top. I ended up not using the Sal Soda. If you want to save a few pennies worth of your expensive cleaner, soak it in water first. Water by itself will obviously not have any lubricating properties that the expensive cleaning products claim to have.

It appears as if Sal Soda is basically sodium carbonate. Arm & Hammer presently makes the product shown in the attached photo.


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

sreilly said:


> Of course there's also just the SC Johnson's Paste Wax as well. The main thing is it not having silicon if I remember correctly. Someone correct me if I'm wrong about this.....


i use the yellow can. Has lasted for years. Silicon is a no-no. Will cause finishing problems.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Grinaker said:


> Another option for a pan is pie container. They have 10" pies at Sam's Club for $7-$9 and larger pies on occasion.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Well there is that option but it would lead to a larger waist and that is an undesirable result for me. You see you need a few necessaries for that container such as ice cream. The cost is too high in my opinion. Increasing waist leads to larger pants/shorts, leads to more wifely opinions, to more doctor visits, to more accidents (cut container requiring another pie to replace and while you're there maybe an extra just in case it gets damaged again). No this won't work at all...........


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## vkbellis (Aug 1, 2020)

Great thread Steve! and many thanks to you and all of its contributors. I very much appreciate this discussion because in the past I rarely have bothered with proper blade cleaning due to time issues in running my former little surveying company, but realize now I should have taken the time.

I kept track (I think) of the cleaners used for cleaning saw blades mentioned in this discussion so far: 

Arm & Hammer Calcium Carbonate
CMT Formula 2050 - blade and bit cleaner
Trend Tool & Bit Cleaner
LA's Totally Awesome All Purpose
WD40 (not sure which specific product was mentioned in this thread for saw blades)

If I've missed any others already mentioned, or you have a favorite cleaner not yet mentioned, please add to the list.

Also, please indicate what you use to clean other blades and cutters; e.g., bandsaw blades*, jointer, planers, router bits, etc. 

FYI & FWIW - Amazon reviewers give both Trend (18oz. @ $11) and CMT (18oz. @ $17) 4.6 stars


*Bandsaw Blades
Cleaning with the blade in place; clean with partial tension, full tension?; what of the wheels? Should they get cleaned with the same stuff? I wouldn't think lubrication on the wheels would be good...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Good question about bandsaw blades Kelly. I've cleaned mine with the Trend product but it's time consuming, not easy, and it does get gum on the wheels but doesn't seem to be a problem after. It was me that mentioned the WD40. It did a great job of getting the residue off that the Trend left on one of my blades which is why I want to try just the WD40 next time I need to clean one. You never know until you try as the saying goes.

I always un-tension my BS blade when I'm done with it so I would have cleaned it like that but I don't think it matters.


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## vkbellis (Aug 1, 2020)

@Cherryville Chuck - I just cleaned my bandsaw blade - inspired by this thread! - and I first used a nylon brush to knock the bigger bits off and then a light spritz of WD40 on a paper towel to clean off the resin film. Tedious, but looks much better. I also ordered the Trend spray to see how well it works. Now, onto the resaw!


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

"Sal was a good ole gal" there was a song like that if I remember right.
Herb


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Good question about bandsaw blades Kelly. I've cleaned mine with the Trend product but it's time consuming, not easy, and it does get gum on the wheels but doesn't seem to be a problem after. It was me that mentioned the WD40. It did a great job of getting the residue off that the Trend left on one of my blades which is why I want to try just the WD40 next time I need to clean one. You never know until you try as the saying goes.
> 
> I always un-tension my BS blade when I'm done with it so I would have cleaned it like that but I don't think it matters.



I used to clean my bandsaw blades the same way...now I take it off, twirl it down into the "storage" loop and place it teeth down in the cleaner...makes it so much easier than a few teeth at a time...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Nickp said:


> I used to clean my bandsaw blades the same way...now I take it off, twirl it down into the "storage" loop and place it teeth down in the cleaner...makes it so much easier than a few teeth at a time...


I've noticed that the Trend cleaner works better if it soaks in for a few minutes but it also doesn't work very well if you let it dry before you finish scrubbing the gum off so being able to dip it back in the fluid like that would definitely help.


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## smitty10101 (Oct 15, 2004)

Cleaning bandsaw blades:

In the community woodshop, we use a brass bristle brush. Keep the blade tensioned & rotate the wheels by hand while applying the brush to the blade. Similar to relieving the back of the blade with a stone to ease the back of the blade. A couple of rotations and all done.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> I used to clean my bandsaw blades the same way...now I take it off, twirl it down into the "storage" loop and place it teeth down in the cleaner...makes it so much easier than a few teeth at a time...


same here....


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Good question about bandsaw blades Kelly. I've cleaned mine with the Trend product but it's time consuming, not easy, and it does get gum on the wheels but doesn't seem to be a problem after. It was me that mentioned the WD40. It did a great job of getting the residue off that the Trend left on one of my blades which is why I want to try just the WD40 next time I need to clean one. You never know until you try as the saying goes.
> 
> I always un-tension my BS blade when I'm done with it so I would have cleaned it like that but I don't think it matters.


I always take the blade off of the bandsaw to clean it. I usually do this when I'm changing blades but occasionally in mid-use if I'm using the saw for a long run like a lot of resawing. It's easier to handle and keeps the gunk off of the wheels and the brush that leans against the wheel to remove some of the sawdust while it's running. I use the same bit and blade cleaner that I use on table saw blades brushing it with a tooth brush and wiping with a paper towel.


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