# Stairway trimming



## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

We started remodeling a long time ago. BTW, never again! Anyway, we have a stairway in our split foyer home that needs finishing. The original home had carpet and a board that was cut and routed to follow the contour of the steps from the upstairs to the foyer (foy-yay if you are formal) There is also are newell posts and spindles on that part. We are debating on some way to trim the stairs. SWMBO wants the steps to be bullnose on the front and the one end. However, my concern is getting the correct measurements for the length of the steps. I plan on buying oak lumber and routing the bullnose. These steps are oak and the finish we got didn't last. Worn down to the wood. Router is an inexpensive Skil with 1/4 bits. I would like to do some trim for the lower part of the stairs with making a template and cutting/fitting it to the contour of the bullnose and the riser.
OK, your recommendations are welcome. For some reason, the pictures are upside down. I went to the Pictures file and rotated them 180 degrees and still upside down. Help!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Knothead47 said:


> . I went to the Pictures file and rotated them 180 degrees and still upside down. Help!



open the picture..
rotate it..
save it to that same file again overwriting the original..
now post the picture...
the forum's editor sees the base/original picture's information and the is what you have to change...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Knothead47 said:


> We started remodeling a long time ago. BTW, never again! Anyway, we have a stairway in our split foyer home that needs finishing. The original home had carpet and a board that was cut and routed to follow the contour of the steps from the upstairs to the foyer (foy-yay if you are formal) There is also are newell posts and spindles on that part. We are debating on some way to trim the stairs. SWMBO wants the steps to be bullnose on the front and the one end. However, my concern is getting the correct measurements for the length of the steps. I plan on buying oak lumber and routing the bullnose. These steps are oak and the finish we got didn't last. Worn down to the wood. Router is an inexpensive Skil with 1/4 bits. I would like to do some trim for the lower part of the stairs with making a template and cutting/fitting it to the contour of the bullnose and the riser.


the wood appears to be fine...
add half round to the stair tread ends... buy it ready made or make your own..
use a small width stop molding to hide wall blems...

.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

I'd remove the steps and treads. That way you can have a little error and when you replace them, they will cover any gaps. It will look much better IMHO. Put the risers on first and fit the steps against them & the wall side tight. Going to be beautiful!


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

You got the pictures right side up but reversed. I went to the original photo and rotated, as stated. Anyway, you see what I am looking at for this project.
Tonto1, Kempo Sabe here, when I installed the steps, the steps and risers were covered with carpet. I put the risers on then butted the steps against them. Basically, I am starting over. Now....the challenge is to come to an agreement with SWMBO on what to do.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Are you saying you are wanting to put a vertical baseboard on the wall and but the treads & risers up against that? To me, that makes the job look completed. I would also orient the grain of the steps so that they will cup the other way (see your pic above). Need to flip it over! It will nail down tighter and keep it from creaking later on. You will get another inch depending on the width of the vertical baseboard as well. Might be enough to allow you to bullnose that outside edge. I got my risers from HD when I did mine. They didn't make me buy the whole board, just the pieces I needed. I picked through their boards and cut around any knots (don't have any knots in any of my risers--looks beautiful) using their radial arm saw. Didn't have to pay for the waste which was very nice.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Tonto1, Kemo Sabe again. The original house had a board that was cut and routed to follow the contour of the steps and risers. I want to put a whole board down the upper stairway with the top edge even with the edge of the step and no bullnose on the end. But SWMBO has pretty much vetoed that. Said it would interfere with the Newell posts and spindles. Still debating this.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

I'm assuming that you are going to get/make new treads? If so, how about going to a good lumber yard and getting unfinished treads there. You can get them with returns on the ends.....will probably look better than just bullnosing the end of the tread. Also, a tread made of glued staves will be more stable than a tread made form a single board. If you get good treads the staves will have a good grain match and the joints will be virtually invisible. A real good polyurethane for floors and stair treads is Last N Last. Assuming there will be a stair rail with ballusters there is a great product to attach the ballusters to the stair treads.....if this is a need I can provide the name of the manufacturer. As others have said install the wall skirt board and then do the risers and treads.

Note: the treads at HD aren't as good as what you can get at a lumber yard and I found the lumberyard prices to be lower.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Don't shop HD- had some bad experiences there. I have everything for the stairway- Newell posts, balusters (spindles?) and the rail. Just need to get it all finalized as what SWMBO wants. We have a millwork business and a local building supply close by. Might see what they have in wood and get a price for DIY. Have a finish but can't remember what it is. Got it at Woodcraft and supposed to be good for flooring.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Also, don't forget to make a stair(tread) gauge. You can buy them but very easy to make your own.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

My treads are glue-ups (and due to how my/our brains process what we see when walking up the stairs, I never notice it). But when you look up the stairs, the risers just jump out at you. I have received many compliments on my risers. The eyes are just drawn to them for what ever reason. So I'm very glad I went with solid lumber for them. If I was home I would post a picture. 

If you were near I would give you a deal on Red Oak. I have plenty of 1.5" thick boards you could make the treads with, and plenty of 1/2," 3/4" and 1" boards for risers! I used 3/4". I nailed them at the bottom so the tread would cover the nail holes & at the very top so the next tread kinda hid it. Worked perfectly. Used putty that matched the color exactly. 

What ever you decide to do, make sure you bring the lumber into the house and let it acclimate to your temperature & humidity. This will cut down on it's natural movement. I let mine sit inside for almost a month and have had no problems. They have lasted 16 years and have never had to be refinished. My installer for the floors used a new product back then, don't remember what it was, but it has sure lasted.


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## tedleyr (Mar 7, 2018)

Does anyone else use a bar of soap(surf wax works) for the mating surfaces beneath the treads. A friend who took me on and taught me trim work and some cabinetry years ago taught me that to hinder any developing squeakiness. Also once bought an old timers homemade tool boxes with tools at a yard sale, in the floatsam at the bottom? Soap. Crayons can help on a small scale.

Working on heavy duty oak treads all day can wear a guy out. I envy you.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Tonto1 said:


> My treads are glue-ups (and due to how my/our brains process what we see when walking up the stairs, I never notice it). But when you look up the stairs, the risers just jump out at you. I have received many compliments on my risers. The eyes are just drawn to them for what ever reason. So I'm very glad I went with solid lumber for them. If I was home I would post a picture.
> 
> If you were near I would give you a deal on Red Oak. I have plenty of 1.5" thick boards you could make the treads with, and plenty of 1/2," 3/4" and 1" boards for risers! I used 3/4". I nailed them at the bottom so the tread would cover the nail holes & at the very top so the next tread kinda hid it. Worked perfectly. Used putty that matched the color exactly.
> 
> What ever you decide to do, make sure you bring the lumber into the house and let it acclimate to your temperature & humidity. This will cut down on it's natural movement. I let mine sit inside for almost a month and have had no problems. They have lasted 16 years and have never had to be refinished. My installer for the floors used a new product back then, don't remember what it was, but it has sure lasted.


Nice, but pricey risers. I just went with a cabinet grade Red Oak plywood for my risers. As you know, the poly on the treads can be slippery depending on your footwear. I wound up installing a stair carpet runner so now only the ends of the treads and risers are visible.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

There is an anti slip powder (grit) that you can mix with your finish that gives decent grip but it may eventually wear out and another coat added with more grit. It comes in 1 or 2 lb packages up here. Can’t remember the exact size. 2 packages is enough for a gallon of finish/paint. I used in with some porch enamel once and it was way less slippery than just the enamel.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

I got a can of Olympic Spar Varnish in clear gloss for the steps. Just need to get SWMBO off dead center to decide what she wants.


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