# Router Biscuit Bit Usage Question (jig)???



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

When using a router biscuit bit on a large panel I’m assuming it’s best to do it by hand (not on a table). But when cutting into the panel side you only have the thickness of the material to rest the router base one. So what’s the best way to deal with this? I’m assuming some kind of right angle jig would help? Is there something specific for biscuits? 

I’m going to build a smallish carcass for my router table top this weekend and want to see my options. Of course I could always just buy a joiner. But that would dip into my router table goodies fund…  

Thanks!


----------



## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

I would use this as a good excuse to buy a pocket hole jig if you don't already have one..they come in real handy and this is an ideal application for it.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nickbee

Greg is right on but they are not free most go for about 70 bucks if not more, you can do the job with a slot cutter, to fit the size of biscuit you want to use  ,,,all you need is a quick home make jig to fit the bottom of your router and some biscuits , it's bit tricky but not to bad ..the bearing on the bit will do most of the work for you..and the jig..and all you need to put out of your pocket will be about 20.oo bucks...



=============






Nickbee said:


> When using a router biscuit bit on a large panel I’m assuming it’s best to do it by hand (not on a table). But when cutting into the panel side you only have the thickness of the material to rest the router base one. So what’s the best way to deal with this? I’m assuming some kind of right angle jig would help? Is there something specific for biscuits?
> 
> I’m going to build a smallish carcass for my router table top this weekend and want to see my options. Of course I could always just buy a joiner. But that would dip into my router table goodies fund…
> 
> Thanks!


----------



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Ya bob that was the idea. I like it when a bearing can make an operation brainless 

And for the jig,, Can I use a few pieces of MDF joined at a 90 deg angle? 

THANKS!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi, Nickbee

Here's a quick one you can make in a heart beat..you don't need the guard but it's nice if you want to set the router down for a just a bit and mark the next slot pocket..........

Slot cutters at the right price ▼

http://cgi.ebay.com/1PC-1-4-SH-Slot...4240060QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/1PC-1-2-SH-Slot...4672096QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/11pc-1-4-Shank-...3506632QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

Over size bearing to fit the slot cutter shank..
D - BEARINGS (for different depth cuts)
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katbt7.htm

#12111 1-1/8" OD x 5/16" ID = Cut Depth 3/8" 
#12112 1-1/4" OD x 5/16" ID = Cut Depth 5/16" 
#12113 1-3/8" OD x 5/16" ID = Cut Depth 1/4" 
#12114 1-5/8" OD x 5/16" ID = Cut Depth 1/8" 

===========
Screw slots in the base plate, can be put in with two router bits but it sure is nice when you can do it all with just one bit. 
Screw Slot Router Bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_screw_slot.htm


=======


----------



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Ok Bob maybe I’m missing something…

It looks like that jig would be setting the depth of the slot cutter. I think the bearing on a dedicated biscuit bit would de the same thing…

My concern is that when cutting into the “face” of a panel the router base would only have the thickness of the material to sit on (say ¾” MDF in my case this weekend)… 

So I guess my game plan was to come up with some type of 90 deg “platform” that could be clamped to the panel for more stability (can you tell I trust my hand / motor skills). Make sense? Is there a better way to skin this cat?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

H Nick

" Is there a better way to skin this cat?" = Yes ,buy biscuit machine..
Harbor Freight sells a CHEAP one that I don't recommend with a carb.tip 4" blade.

The jig is made so you can control the slot cutter...

The bearing will stop the cutter from going to deep,, and the jig will do the same, some biscuits don't need to be put in deep ,but the jig will let the slot cutter work without taking the router out of your hands..

It's a big bit to be spining on the end on the router... but most of the bit is inside of the jig block..the guard can be moved over the edge of the stock so you get the slot cut true and sq. to the edge..

The depth in the edge is set by the router and it's best to use a standard router NOT a plunge type...you can use the plunge type but it must be locked in place b/4 you start...and must not be moved until your done with all the slots.

===============




Nickbee said:


> Ok Bob maybe I’m missing something…
> 
> It looks like that jig would be setting the depth of the slot cutter. I think the bearing on a dedicated biscuit bit would de the same thing…
> 
> ...


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Nickbee, the thickness of BJ's simple jig is the same as you're material, so part of the router is on the work-piece and the rest is on the bench keeping the router level.
As has been suggested, there really is no substitute for a dedicated jointer and for occasional use a Chinese cheepie will last forever!


----------



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

okay,,,

Here's another question. When using a large bit like a biscuit cutter. If one had the a PC router (2 1/4 HP) with variable speed... Where should the speed be set at? I believe the point of a variable speed router is to slow it down with larger bits (to reduce the bit's MPH),,,,

As you can tell I'm learning lots from lingering on here!!! Thanks guys!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nick

Just my 2 cents

I always run the router at it's low speed,,,,the bit will do the job, it's always a bit scarey when the router is screaming in your ear...and can put you on edge...I have used routers for a long time and it still puts me on edge..

That's what's neat about the new type of routers you can turn them down easy.







Nickbee said:


> okay,,,
> 
> Here's another question. When using a large bit like a biscuit cutter. If one had the a PC router (2 1/4 HP) with variable speed... Where should the speed be set at? I believe the point of a variable speed router is to slow it down with larger bits (to reduce the bit's MPH),,,,
> 
> As you can tell I'm learning lots from lingering on here!!! Thanks guys!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nick

Greg said
"I would use this as a good excuse to buy a pocket hole jig if you don't already have one..they come in real handy and this is an ideal application for it."
__________________
Greg
They work great  like Greg said

POCKET Hole Jig
You can make your own but it's best to use in on the router table 

here's a link how to make pocket hole jig ▼

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2470-pocket-hole-jig-router-table.html

You will also see a box to hold the jig so you can use it with a plunge router...
Some scrap wood and a brass guide and a 3/8" or 1/2" bit and you have it done.
The hard part is making the long drill bit but it's not needed if you don't want to use it a standard drll bit will do the trick...


===========


----------



## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Nickbee,

I've used 90 degree angles with indexing strips attached to keep them aligned to the edge of the work surface with success in the past, not actually for biscuits but they did work well for other edge work I was doing.

Bob,
That's a pretty neat jig! I would like to see more info on how you made the drill guide blocks. 

I have the Kreg R3 kit. It doesn't have all the bells and whistles of the nicer kits, but it does include everything you need to get the job done (even the screws!)  ... and it's only $39 at amazon and Lowes :sold: 

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Greg

The plugs are easy to make,I used some hardwood and cut them to the size of the pocket hole, then did a bit of sanding to round the ends to fit in the pocket hole,,then took some 1/4" thick stock and glued them to the sides of the plug then with a bit more sanding to get them flat on the top side with the glued on parts ,then I marked the drill hole spot and drilled the hole all the way down the center of the plug..(with the drill press) I made two diff. sizes 3/8" wide and 1/2" wide,,,the 1/2" ones come in nice when doing 2 x 4 /4 x 4 stock...and using big drywall screws....(deck type)


Nick, you also may want to check out the Sommerfeld tools pockey hole jig it's about 1/2 the going price of the pocket jigs.....plus it will let you set it for 1" deep holes,the norm is 3/4" thick stock settings, but that's a diff. story....


http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item.asp?n=ppj2&d=158&b=2

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/2197-pocket-hole-jig-router-table-pock6.jpg
=========
*********
=========

http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-R3-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B000J43A7W

=========


----------



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

gregW said:


> Nickbee,
> 
> I've used 90 degree angles with indexing strips attached to keep them aligned to the edge of the work surface with success in the past, not actually for biscuits but they did work well for other edge work I was doing.


Thanks Greg! That was exactly what I had pictured in my mind along with the indexes. That will allow me to cut the slot at the popper width for a biscuit!


----------



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Here’s what I ended up making (note how it‘s VERY similar, ok the same, as Greg‘s sketch)…




























The index bars help to align the “platform” with the edge ot the material and also act as a stop to slot the proper width for a #20 biscuit. I guess when it comes time to cut for smaller biscuits I’ll throw in a shim on either side (to cut a narrower slot). 

So far so good,, Here’s my router table carcass starting to go together. 










Thanks for the direction guys!


----------



## Roefa (Sep 14, 2007)

Two Cents More: If you want a wider surface for the base plate of the router to rest upon, simply clamp a block of wood (like a piece of 2 x 4) to your workpiece.
Are we there yet? 

Roger
(Roefa)


----------

