# How would you do this?



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

I am in the process of making a drum sander table. I have started drawing the plans in Sketchup. So far I haven't added any measurements, but the table top needs a 2" wide slot on the top that has a 45 degree chamfer to the bottom to accommodate the sanding drum . Any suggestions as to the easiest way to accomplish this?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George

I would suggest a good jig saw,, set at a 45 deg. and some guide boards clamped it place to get the nice clean cut...
It would be nice if you could use a router bit but the ends of pass would be problem same with a table saw 

That's how I made my 1st. one 

http://www.stockroomsupply.com/V_Drum_Sander.php
http://www.theonlinewoodshow.com/show/company.php?number=20102&cat=1
http://www.stockroomsupply.com/
http://www.theonlinewoodshow.com/show/company.php?number=20102&cat=1&prod=drumdemo

see picture below, done with a 45 deg. router bit and a template a easy job for the ski jig.  but I didn't have one at the time I made mine.. 


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

George, the easiest way to do this is to trim off the two ends, make a single 45 degree cut with a saw, flip one board and then glue the end pieces in position.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

George, I'm sure it will come as no surprise when I tell you that I would use the plunge router! First I would cut the centre out with a jig saw or whatever, leaving a little waste. Using a suitable size 90* "V" cutter and a template guide of suitable size I would calculate the off-set, in this case, because the cutter ends in a point, it's size doesn't enter the equation, if the guide is 1.5" then the template opening will be that amount wider and longer than the finished opening.
At this stage I would clamp the board UPSIDE DOWN on the bench and pin a piece of MDF etc. around each side so that they are 3/4" out on all sides, the pin holes won't matter, this being the underside. It's now only a matter of going around in a clockwise direction and Bob's your uncle, it's done, and perfectly so!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George

I would do it almost the same,, I would use a 45 deg. router bit with a bearing on it, 1st.cut up some stock to make the template, rip the stock to about the same size as the board, then glue in some small parts to make a opening in the template, 2" wide slot.

Once it's dry ,drill a hole in the board and drill a hole for the jig saw can drop in, cut a hole out that almost 2" wide, then clamp the board and the template to the work bench (WorkMate) once you have it clamped down pop in the router bit, plunge down so the bearing rides on the template below, run the bit around the inside of the template a time or two, but on the last pass, the clean up pass, just take off just a little bit so it can't chip out the top edge/cover of the stock....

The 45 deg. chamfer bit you should have on hand most router bit sets come with one..the norm..

Chamfer Bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_chamf.html

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I will say I like to use the router table and a trim bit to cut out the hole,then pop in the 45 deg. router bit to put the 45 deg. edges on the board, it's almost the same way but no jig saw is needed and the template in riding on the top side for the trim bit job and then just flip it over to put on the 45 deg/ edges , board is stuck in place with pin nails, not brad nailes,, the pin nails will pull out and you can't see the holes..
You can use some GOOD double sided carpet tape if you don't want any holes to show 


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Thanks for the suggestions guys. This should to be fun. Just for Harry, I might even take a few pics.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi George,

Since you asked,


> *How would you do this?*


I would bride Bj with some hedge apples an ask him, please can ya do for me? 

On a serious note, I have to agree with using the 45* bit. Unless you happen to have one of those Festool circular saws. They can plunge cut, and as Bj has suggested a good jig saw to finish the clean up.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hi Ken,
Knowing Bj, I would bet he already has the market on hedge (horse) apples cornered.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You guys talk about a 45* cutter, a 90* as I mentioned IS 45* each side of the centre!
Surely a 45* cutter would be only rout a 22.5 * slope!


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

I do believe you are correct, as always, Sir Harry.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I wish my wife would realise that George, unfortunately, she insists that it is she who is always right, ah well, anything for a quiet life.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

All I can say is


see below
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harrysin said:


> You guys talk about a 45* cutter, a 90* as I mentioned IS 45* each side of the centre!
> Surely a 45* cutter would be only rout a 22.5 * slope!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I think that's a case of me saying "tomarto" and you saying "tomateo" The angle between the two cutters is 90*, each side being 45* to the vertical. The important thing is to know exactly what each of us is talking about.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

*Tomarto or tomatoe?????????????*



harrysin said:


> I think that's a case of me saying "tomarto" and you saying "tomateo" The angle between the two cutters is 90*, each side being 45* to the vertical. The important thing is to know exactly what each of us is talking about.


Personally Harry I say "Tomato." Is the "e" in your tomato, like a British spelling?????????


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

That was just phonetic spelling to make it clear how to pronounce the words Dave, but you knew that!


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hey! We don't allow any of that phony spelling around here!!!


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## servant74 (Nov 5, 2008)

*I hope you already have this done.*



curiousgeorge said:


> I am in the process of making a drum sander table. I have started drawing the plans in Sketchup. So far I haven't added any measurements, but the table top needs a 2" wide slot on the top that has a 45 degree chamfer to the bottom to accommodate the sanding drum . Any suggestions as to the easiest way to accomplish this?


I suggest, use a small circular, jigsaw, saber saw, etc to cut the rectangular opening. Then use a router with a 45 degree camber bit and a pattern following bearing. Use the router to go around the inside of the hole from the bottom. Take several light cuts. Life should be good.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Since it's out there, my best guess... All the above to get it closely undersized. Then mount the table above the drum with course grit paper and get itself to finish size. (like you would do for a zero clearance insert.) 

Then move the table a little left, right, forward, back... to get some clearance. Would end up with a close fitting appliance, where chips and sawdust would hopefully not tend to feed into it.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Guys, this post is from 5 years ago, so George has probably finished it now. Although I cannot find the photos he promised Harrysin........VBG.......


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## richtink (Dec 5, 2012)

Mike said:


> George, the easiest way to do this is to trim off the two ends, make a single 45 degree cut with a saw, flip one board and then glue the end pieces in position.


I agree.
Five minutes on a table saw. Let us know how long with the router.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

jw2170 said:


> Guys, this post is from 5 years ago, so George has probably finished it now. Although I cannot find the photos he promised Harrysin........VBG.......


he he can procrastinate like I can...
George hasn't even started yet...


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