# Horizontal Router Table



## scrollwolf (Sep 12, 2004)

My first attempt at building a horizontal router table.

scrollwolf


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Looks good scrollwolf

I did play with the picture just a bit so I could see more detail hope that's OK looks like you and Rusty W. are thinking on the same lines...

Have you tried it out ?, I have one also they are great and can do many jobs the other router tables have a hard time doing...


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## scrollwolf (Sep 12, 2004)

No, I haven't tried it yet. My Incra jig arrived and I dropped everything to assemble it.

Thanks,
scrollwolf


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Nice looking scrollwolf. Please keep us informed on your progress.


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## Rolf Maxa (Feb 8, 2005)

Looks great, you should post more pictures when you get the opportunity. I want to add this to me list of many projects. Some of them will have to wait till I can retire.
Rolf


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Sweet Scrollwolf, If I had the room I would buy the MLCS one. Good job!

Corey


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## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

My horizontal table is one patterned after a book co-authored by Bill Hylton. It uses two height adj. screws. Bill has since amended the design in another book where-in one adj.screw has been replaced by a corner pivot pin. I guess he found with use(as I did) that one adj.screw is sufficient. The nice thing about positioning the adj.screw at the corner instead of centered is that a very micro adj.is possible : ie: using a screw rod with 16 tpi a full turn=1/32" , 1/2 turn=1/64", 1/4= 1/128" making is a simple matter to machine sliding dovetails as an example.
I also made table inserts of various bit profiles. The vertical section mounting the router is a Veritas steel router table & clamping system which allows me to pop my handheld router in & out quickly.

Lee


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## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

Oooops ! Wrong pic. sorry. Will sort it out.

Lee


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## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

Hopefully this is the right one.

Lee


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## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

I give up.

Lee


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Lee

Most HORZ. router tables look like the one below ▼

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/3014-new-toy.html
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/3111-horz-router.html

But you could call the one you made a horz. table also , by the way very nice


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I should like to see some shots of things that can be done with this type of table.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Here just 3 of them 

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/show-n-tell/3111-horz-router-796.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/show-n-tell/3005-new-toy-733.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/show-n-tell/3018-new-toy-747.jpg


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## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

Yup Bob, they do look like that don't they.

Lee


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Lee

That's looks better   , how do you move the router up and down it's hard to see in the picture ???


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## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

Actually there is a crank at both top corners....the lefthand one is hard to pick out & that is the one I use the most....especially for final fine adjustments.

Lee


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey Harry

They also can put in round Dowel Pins holes  quick and easy , no fuss no muss just add a stop block with some plywood that's clamped to the top and push the stock in and your done,,, 
I use a tee-slot for the stop block on the one I have.. plus no rubber ruler needed to set up the hole(s) the Horz. table will set them up...

They will come right out on the button on both parts of the joint... 



Bj 




bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Here just 3 of them
> 
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thanks for the thought Bj, but dowelling with the Nikilift* is so quick, simple and no measurements are involved, it's a bit like biscuit jointing, only freehand pencil lines are needed.

* The Nikilift is a simple mechanism for raising the router using a foot pedal and was devised by Niki in Poland, I'm sure he or someone else will post the relevant link.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

You ask what the Horz. table could do :

I have a question for you about the Nikilift,,,,most plunge/hand base routers have a lock on them to keep the router in the motor base case and keep it true, what did you do to get around this  if it's locked in place do you lift the router and the base plate at the same time ,, ? if it's not locked in place and the bit gets jamed and you try and drop in down ,what do you do ?
pry the stock of the bit ? ....

Just asking..  

Bj 





harrysin said:


> Thanks for the thought Bj, but dowelling with the Nikilift* is so quick, simple and no measurements are involved, it's a bit like biscuit jointing, only freehand pencil lines are needed.
> 
> * The Nikilift is a simple mechanism for raising the router using a foot pedal and was devised by Niki in Poland, I'm sure he or someone else will post the relevant link.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, the only router that I have owned that remains locked unless the lever is held, was a Bosch which also had other "features" that I didn't like, hence the reason for selling it. The Makita and my new Triton can be left unlocked, therefore can be raised with the foot operated Nikilift and the plunge limit pre-set, or simply raised to the required height with the pedal and locked in this position. The Triton, once set to approx. height then has a micro adjuster for accurate height then locked. For table use it really is a fabulous machine.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, I forgot to add that I put the biggest cutter that I had fully into the collet,That's right, fully into the collet as per the owners manual, and the cranked spanner has plenty of clearance, I have a shot of it still in the camera.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

This is a bit off the subject but I thought you would get a kick out of seeing the item below, for lifting the router up and down  with a true read out...just some new stuff coming out for the router table...  and I sure it's only the tip of the ice burg,new didital fence,didital Incra equipment for the router table and table saw,didital table saw,band saw.etc. the age of the didital computer equipment is coming fast and hard,,,and you know americans we want all the good things that we can find for the new home shop...the next thing will be a cabinet for the router bits that will just open with a button and it will have a picture of the bit on the screen that will give all the info about the bit and how to use it.. 

I want one    



http://www.jointech.com/smartliftdigital.htm
http://pricecutter.com/product.asp?pn=415-6600&cn=56069&bhcd2=1187311670
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17320
http://www.nextag.com/router-lift/search-html

review below
http://www.rockler.com/blog/index.cfm?commentID=143

Bj


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

I am wondering if anyone has experience with the MLCS horizontal router table? Well made? Worth the money?

Thanks 

Steve Bolton


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Steve

Yes and Yes and Yes

see the link below for the one I have from MLCS 

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/3014-new-toy.html

Bj


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> This is a bit off the subject but I thought you would get a kick out of seeing the item below, for lifting the router up and down  with a true read out...just some new stuff coming out for the router table...  and I sure it's only the tip of the ice burg,new didital fence,didital Incra equipment for the router table and table saw,didital table saw,band saw.etc. the age of the didital computer equipment is coming fast and hard,,,and you know americans we want all the good things that we can find for the new home shop...the next thing will be a cabinet for the router bits that will just open with a button and it will have a picture of the bit on the screen that will give all the info about the bit and how to use it..
> 
> ...


Bj. I have already posted an answer to this post,but it seems to have got lost in space, so here is something like it again.
I sure would like one but not at that price. I'm sure that with a bit of thought a digital vernier could be adapted to my Nikilift which cost virtually nothing to make


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Thanks for the picture.. Now put in a T & G or a R & S bit,, as you know once the 1st. bit is used the router should NOT be moved up or down ,,,that's if you want the joint to come out right on the button, you can take 30 mins. reset the router for the 2nd bit in the set, but it's so easy not to move the router at all and put in the 2nd bit and the joint will come out right on the spot....without the need to do any sanding on the parts to get that nice clean fit at glue up...

As you know all most all R & S bit sets are matched, that's to say the cutters are the same height for both cutters from the bottom of the shanks, the Mfg. go to alot of extra work to get that done...(matched set) 



============



harrysin said:


> Bj. I have already posted an answer to this post,but it seems to have got lost in space, so here is something like it again.
> I sure would like one but not at that price. I'm sure that with a bit of thought a digital vernier could be adapted to my Nikilift which cost virtually nothing to make


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Thanks for the picture.. Now put in a T & G or a R & S bit,, as you know once the 1st. bit is used the router should NOT be moved up or down ,,,that's if you want the joint to come out right on the button, you can take 30 mins. reset the router for the 2nd bit in the set, but it's so easy not to move the router at all and put in the 2nd bit and the joint will come out right on the spot....without the need to do any sanding on the parts to get that nice clean fit at glue up...
> 
> ...


Unfortunately my R&S cutters are not the same length as shown, it's a pity because as they have to be fully into the collet of the Triton, it would have made things very simple.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I know I'm being a pain but it looks like a matched set...

Do this put a rubber gromet in the base of the collet nut, it can also be a faucet washer the hvy. duty type (1/8" thick) but it needs to be rubber so when you crank it down and the rubber will let it do so... press the gromet in the botton of the collet nut, just flush with the botton of the nut,,, now put one of the bits in the collet then put it in the router, then tighten it down with your hand then get the wrench out and grank it down,,,make a pass with it then take the bit out and do the same with the other bit....if it's matched set the parts will line on the dot...

BUT Don't move the router up or down... 

The rubber gromet is a stop point for the bits don't push the gromet down when you put the bit in the nut...just a nice light touch....

Most faucet washer are right at 1/2" OD but sometimes you will need to clean the outside off it so it's clean with our any tits....I like to use the faucet washers because they stay in place unlike the rubber gromets....


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'm not sure Bj. the reason for the rubber as the makers of my Triton router state,
NOTE: When fitting cutters, ensure the shank is inserted fully into the collet. 
I must have been lucky with the doors that I've made because I have re-adjusted the router and only the first time was there a slight error. It might be a case of "if you have not been told that something can't be done, you simply go ahead and do it"! The forum appears to be light-on for projects at the moment, so in a few days I will present a photo-shoot of a new little box using the Oak Park spacer fence and a little ski routing plus a square inlay set at 45deg. incl. making the template.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I now use it and have it ALL may routers,(O-ring,gromet,faucet washer) I got this tip from Marc Sommerfeld the owner of sommerfeldtools.com 
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/
and 
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/smfld-5.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/smfld-3.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr9.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/table-8.htm


=========


harrysin said:


> I'm not sure Bj. the reason for the rubber as the makers of my Triton router state,
> NOTE: When fitting cutters, ensure the shank is inserted fully into the collet.
> I must have been lucky with the doors that I've made because I have re-adjusted the router and only the first time was there a slight error. It might be a case of "if you have not been told that something can't be done, you simply go ahead and do it"! The forum appears to be light-on for projects at the moment, so in a few days I will present a photo-shoot of a new little box using the Oak Park spacer fence and a little ski routing plus a square inlay set at 45deg. incl. making the template.


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## Edward J Keefer (Jan 28, 2005)

Scrollwolf and fellow woodworkers,
The mention and photo of the horizontal table, peeked my interest. I have a book, Woodworking with the router, by Bill Hylton. I now have all off the parts, except for the T rail (on backorder) and have cutout all of the framing, Even went to Sears and bought another 2 hp router. Looked at the panelling bits (bought them) and they are not the hugh ones that you use with the vert table. At this time I expect to have it completed by the middle of September. When finished will post photo's.
Bud


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