# Questions about leveling a work table



## Eugd (Jan 29, 2015)

I am continuing to build a workshop in my 2 car garage, the floor slopes in the garage like most garages. My table saw is a rigid 4512 that is mobile, when it's sitting flat on its legs it's slopes, I can put shims on it and it's pretty level from back to front, I just built a mobile table that will be used mostly a a outfeed table. It has 4 3inch casters that don't adjust up and down just lock the wheels, shouldn't I worry about having a level top to the outfeed table or just leave it be, I tend to move my ts around because the garage is limited on space until it warns up and I can put up a shead, that's for any input..


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Eugd; I feel your pain! I'm also dealing with the same issue (Dewalt Contractor Saw).
I put mine on a mobile base, which has height adjustable castors.
Unfortunately I didn't fully think it through...
I put the pedal which lifts it onto the castors off to the side so it wouldn't be sticking out when I'm in front of the saw. Wrong. The back two are non adjustable so in effect I created an additional problem.
Next time my son-in-law is visiting we're lifting that sucker up and turning it 90 degrees! (he doesn't know yet. It's heavy)

Similar to this:
https://www.kmstools.com/general-international-universal-mobile-base-322


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## Eugd (Jan 29, 2015)

I'm thinking about having it parallel to the floor and if I'm something the work peice should still be level to the floor, even though it's pitched, I was thinking about turning it 90 degrees also but then one side of the saw would be higher than other, I am starting to feel that as long as the saw and the outfeed table are on the same pitch that should not sacrifice the quality of the cut? Or am I just talking my self into believing that?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Im thinking linear actuators ,gyros and a closed loop feed back system


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Probably more important is that the saw cutting is not perpendicular to the pitch...this would make the piece try to slide towards the pitch. If you set it up so that the cutting pitches parallel to the floor the piece will go "downhill" with the pitch. Anything else would make you adjust your outfeed and the saw whenever you use it but not in EXACTLY the same spot...

Welcome...you'll like it here...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Im thinking linear actuators ,gyros and a closed loop feed back system


...don't forget WAAS-augmented GPS or digital geo-ballistic weapons-grade location device to automatically adjust for variances in location in the garage. 

Got milk...?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Eugd if everything slopes the same then there is no problem. If one twists compared to the other there will be a point where the outfeed table could contribute to the possibility of a kick back. What if you built a mobile base that held the saw and the outfeed table and put that on casters? If you happen to be tall like I am that would be a bonus having everything a few inches higher.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Eugd if everything slopes the same then there is no problem. If one twists compared to the other there will be a point where the outfeed table could contribute to the possibility of a kick back. What if you built a mobile base that held the saw and the outfeed table and put that on casters? If you happen to be tall like I am that would be a bonus having everything a few inches higher.


I was thinking the same thing regarding the slope Charles , as long as there on a slab with the same slope it should be fine .
I have to say when the outfield table doesn't line up right it's gotta be the biggest pita that I've encountered . Dangerous too


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I posted a comment here a while back on this topic. Faster to recap than go looking for it...


In my situation, I want all the bench-tops at or lower than the final elevation of the TS.
If the saw is moved to either side nothing changes elevation wise; it's only if I roll it in or out that it changes the relative ht. to the bench-tops and outfeed table.
I'm using the same method that I did with kitchens. Level all the bases first, then place the cabinets onto them. Yes there will be a falloff from the back of the garage to the front...maybe 2"+/- ? But at least all the box carcases will have the same size gables. The outfeed table will have inserts in the leg bottoms with machine bolts for leveling.
(That's actually what I have now, but I want to redo the whole shebang because the outfeed is being used for _everything_.

The critical factor is that it all starts with the TS sitting dead level on its mobile base, in its working location. An el cheapo laser leveling device will project that elevation onto the wall and anything else that's related. .


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

just do it right from the get go and self level grout/resurface the floor....
one day to the end of issues and fiddling...
do it in segments if need be...

Self Leveling Concrete | Duraamen


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I think the most important thing is to get the saw level in both directions. Shim as necessary.

Then work on your table. shim it as necessary so that it is about 1/16th below the table height of the saw.

Since your table is already built, my way of levelling your table probably won't work.

I bored holes in the bottom of my table leg, glued in 2ea. 5/8 inch nuts using Gorilla Glue, then used 5/8 inch bolts as the levelers. This has worked out well for me. Of course, the table isn't mobile.

Here are a few pics.


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## Eugd (Jan 29, 2015)

Stick , Wife not going to let me level the whole floor, but I think I'm going keep it going with the slope for now until I can get my shead up then going to do what Mt did and leave the bench in one place, thanks for all of your input


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## bluewood (Nov 26, 2013)

I have the same problem. I attached leveling bolts from an old washing machine. They give me 3/4" which works for me. If more is needed use bolts as suggested. The adjustment is 2" from the wheels so they don't interfere withe swivel and mounted on angle iron.


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

How about an out feed table that folds down like a table leaf, hinged at the top and supported from the mobile base. When needed it would always be parallel with the top no matter where the saw is located.


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## 64 ford (Apr 21, 2013)

In MHO as long as the table top and the out feed top are in the same plane it doesn't make any difference what plane is- with some limits. As long as this is temporary I wouldn't worry about level. On my one cabinet saw I have a fold down out feed that I support with a old cast iron stand of some sort that has a screw adjustment for up and down. I simply move the saw where I want it, lift up the out feed and slid the stand under and use a straight edge to get every thing in a plane by screwing the stand up or down. I might add that my floor is as level and true as you can make concrete (it was set with a laser when we poured it and as long as it was for myself we took pains to keep it true). However, I don't think that makes any difference as long as you keep yours in a plane. Just my opinion!
Dennis


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