# Speaker Stands for Jason



## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

We got the 50" plasma TV mounted now to build stands for his speakers. There will be 4 in all, right now they sit on the floor, OK for the base woofer but not for the rest of the speakers. 

Pics 1&2 are of a simplified not fancy mock up I made for Jason to see what the stands would sort of look like. He says he doesn't care until he sees something built and then asks all sorts of questions and makes all kinds of suggestions!! Too late when it is built so for him if possible I make a mock up of the basic structure.

Pic 3 starting the prep of walnut, did I mention I like walnut?
Pic 4&5 Materials on hand, walnut for top and base, birch for risers.
Pic 6&7 Piece of walnut with a twist to it.
pic 8&9 The twist removed. 

I meant to photograph how this was done, but forgot. I need to do a couple more so I will post it then. Basically you glue two pieces of some sacrificial stock one on each side. When the glue is set, just run it through your planner until the entire thing is flat, must do both sides. When flat, rip the sacrificial pieces off and you have pics 8&9. Something you can use.

There are already some questions on how to do it, but I don't need to know right now and the answer will come when meeded.


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## Wild Horse (Sep 9, 2009)

Nice Jerry.....I like the design of the mockup. Are you going to run a sleeve at all for him to run wires thru the riser, or just let them feed up the back? What finish are you going to use with the birch combined with the walnut? Like you, I'm a die hard walnut guy......I did our entire kitchen in black walnut, including the penninsula top.

Looking forward to seeing the finished product !


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Hello Jerry, Looks like you have some projects going also! Wish you well on all the projects questions. Have fun, and give us pics as you go. I sure hope that you don't get bogged down like i do! Please have him ask the questions, and give his priorities before the build


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## wil141 (Feb 14, 2007)

what a good project Jerry, keep us posted of the finished project,and keep making sawdust.we'll wait to see more.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Looks good Jerry. Another useful hands on project.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Jerry, Nice mockup...and a great idea to get feedback before cutting up the good wood. That walnut sure looks nice. I have had my eye on some figured walnut pieces at Woodworkers Source. Maybe I can talk the Mrs. into letting me have some Christmas budget and make some presents out of it. It sure is fun building stuff for other folks. Looking forward to seeing the walnut version. Keep the pics coming!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

The plan is to do a decorative edge in the form of seperate material routered with an OGee type bit. BTW I cannot spell worth----whatever so that is why it is so bad tonight. At any rate, it will look good when done.

pic1 is the glue up of stock to make up 3 tops or bottoms
pic 2 is the ones I did before
pic 3&4 just the shop after tonights work, I am one of those very strange people that is cleaning all the time, sorry to let folks down:haha::haha:


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Your speaker stands look real sharp. I'm looking forward to the step-by-step pictures! You do good work! 

Feel like attaching my shop, Jerry? lol.. My shop is a disaster area. I'm halfway through a entryway bench prototype and am in the process of a major bandsaw rebuild / upgrade. I just turned out the shop lights but the first half of tomorrow will be spent thoroughly cleaning up before starting work. Even so it's becoming a "shop-filled weekend". 

I had today off and at about 2pm today my bride and some of her girlfriends headed down to Homer (4 hours away) for a "girls weeked", returning Sunday afternoon. Hopefully by that time the prototype will be built, the bandsaw will be complete and the shop will be cleaned up. 

Say Dan, can you send me some of that boundless energy you seem to have when doing big projects?


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thank you for the complement. Your comment to Dan is right on. He can get more done in one day then I can in a week. I know he is a fire fighter so maybe that is where he gets it by staying in shape.

What are you doing with the band saw? You say it is a major rebuild/upgrade. I have been out of pocket lately regarding what is going on here in the forum so I may have missed your post on that as well as the entryway bench prototype. I will have to keep up better. 

Looking forward to some pics of both projects and your clean shop!!




BigJimAK said:


> Your speaker stands look real sharp. I'm looking forward to the step-by-step pictures! You do good work!
> 
> Feel like attaching my shop, Jerry? lol.. My shop is a disaster area. I'm halfway through a entryway bench prototype and am in the process of a major bandsaw rebuild / upgrade. I just turned out the shop lights but the first half of tomorrow will be spent thoroughly cleaning up before starting work. Even so it's becoming a "shop-filled weekend".
> 
> ...


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Jim all I can say is I do get tired I just don't say anything. 

It is amazing how fast things can get messy in the shop and if you do not keep on top of it things tend to egt out of control.

Jerry your doing a fine job as per usual and I am sure once you build these stands you will have learned alot and share with us what you would do differently the next time you build another set of speakers. Jerry you do know your son will want a 7.1 surround sound system so that means 7 speaker stands may be needed.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I think I may have sold my son short on this project. I don't know about all that surround sound 7.1 stuff, but here are some pics of the box it came in, so that it may clarify the system. Why only 4 stands? That is all he said he needed the rest are up by his system. at any rate that's the system and all he wanted was 4 stands. 

For the most part, Jason just about overdoes things but not this time I am sure you could spend more but I don't think I could take the bass!!! As it is it vibrates my butt and my feet and he tell me he is holding it down.




TRN_Diesel said:


> Jim all I can say is I do get tired I just don't say anything.
> 
> It is amazing how fast things can get messy in the shop and if you do not keep on top of it things tend to egt out of control.
> 
> Jerry your doing a fine job as per usual and I am sure once you build these stands you will have learned alot and share with us what you would do differently the next time you build another set of speakers. Jerry you do know your son will want a 7.1 surround sound system so that means 7 speaker stands may be needed.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jerry they are going to be some very nice stands! I love the walnut. You are one busy beaver in that shop of yours!


> Jason just about overdoes things but not this time


Um ... I think he got pretty darn close to top of the line with that system. Better reinforce your windows!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Looking for suggestions*

When you look at the mock up, the upper and lower platforms or what ever you want to call them, try to visualize some sort of edge treatment, ie 45 chamfer, or an OGee. Well after "sleeping" on this some, I do not want all that end grain showing. I just don't like the idea. I am thinking along the lines of a trim piece with miters at each corner and then use the Ogee or something someone might suggest. Two reasons, first I just don't want the end grain showing and it is the harder way to go so I can discover more ways to mess up!!!

The speaker photos are to show the size of the subwoofer and how the speaker will look and fit on the stand. BTW the stand will be 36" or so. Seems I already said that!!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I am sure this got buried so I will reserect it. Any suggestions on he edge treatment?


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

any cues from the speakers themselves? do they have a roundover or chamfer on the corners? 

I think you should keep it simple, no Ogee or classical bit, just a something to soften the edge.


Maybe a bevel cut on the bottom of the top to thin the edge?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Hey Jerry...

As you know, I'm far from an expert on this but with the crisp square lines of the speaker, I'd consider trimming it in walnut, breaking the edge with a 1/16" or 1/8" roundover and placing a tablesaw bladewidth wide inlay of light colored wood (holly?) around the perimeter.

I saw an online video wher they cut about 1/8" deep in the center of the top perimeter. He cut a piece of holly or other white wood and cut a strip about the width of the slot by about 3/8 wide. He hand planed it to width to fit and glued it in. Then he sawed it close and planed it closer. Finally he burnished the last part to totally fill the slot. A couple of light plane-strokes and it looked amazing. Understated but elegant. I've looked for the video link but haven't yet found it.

Perhaps one inlay around the top and two around the cove just above the base?

Just the $0.02 worth from a beginner.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thank you fellas for your input. I shall keep it simple and give carefull concideration to the inlay idea


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

I may be a little late getting in on this, Jerry, but I do see what you mean about the edge grain. One suggestion would be to miter the joints on all the edge trim and rework the column so that the edge grain is left and right...at least it may be less noticeable that way. You could miter the corners on the column too, but that would have to be perfectly square to get it all to line up right and I'm not sure I'd be up to that task.  I think the roundover idea is a good one...it does tend to detract the eye and give the project some more "character".


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Maybe I am missing something but why bother with 3/4" strip around the top base of the speaker? Is it to stop the speaker from moving around while it is being used? I think you can do without the strip and if the speaker moves a little why not use some two way tape to hold it in place. I have seen some guys inlay a small piece of velcro to do the job.

I agree with Frank on the coll um and using mitre joints. What would be nice if it is possible is to lay out your piece and have the grain run continuously around the column. Much the same as you would do in making a box.

How are you going to finish the stands? From the pictures it looks like the speakers are black so are you going to ebonize the walnut or use a clear finish on them? Reason I ask is it you ebonize the wood and use double the grit on the end grain it will not be an issue if you finish the stands in a dark stain.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Maybe I am missing something but why bother with 3/4" strip around the top base of the speaker? Is it to stop the speaker from moving around while it is being used? I think you can do without the strip and if the speaker moves a little why not use some two way tape to hold it in place. I have seen some guys inlay a small piece of velcro to do the job.
> 
> I agree with Frank on the coll um and using mitre joints. What would be nice if it is possible is to lay out your piece and have the grain run continuously around the column. Much the same as you would do in making a box.
> 
> How are you going to finish the stands? From the pictures it looks like the speakers are black so are you going to ebonize the walnut or use a clear finish on them? Reason I ask is it you ebonize the wood and use double the grit on the end grain it will not be an issue if you finish the stands in a dark stain.



Today was a day of fixing lawnmowers. Fixed one for a friend of ours who insists on paying me to do work for her. She had put too much oil in and needed to clean it all out of the cylinder. So I pulled the head and dried it out put it back together and it ran first pull. When I was a kid, my grandfather had a lawnmore buisness and I learned about them there. Just a note. Now to the good stuff.

The risers or the vertical portion will be natural finish birch plywood so continuing the grain all the way around will be something I will work toward. 

I plan to go with natural finish unless Jason says otherwise and right now he has no problem with the natural finish. The pics below will maybe help to show what I have in mind. Pics 1&2 This is the top sample. Unless I can come up with a good reason not to, this will be how they will all be made. I like the vertical aspect because it was harder to do than anything else. I like the idea that the speaker can only fall one way and that is to the front. I intend to get some lead to place in the bottom of the column to keep a low center of gravity. The double sided sticky tape or Velcro never entered my mind, but I like both. The pics 3&4 are a mistake and may result in dumping this one. (The vertical portion is held on with screws and not glued) The effect seeing in person is that it appears as if each side has an overlay of some kind. I may just do them all this way.

It is kind of nice working on these because I have an open door in the area of design and free had with money for the project!! He always says he "doesn't care", but my experience is that all people who say that, do care at one extreme or another.

The end grain is not so bothersome to me seeing it rounded over. Oh yes I have decided on a 3/8's round over.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Jerry,

That is some fine looking work. You've got talent my friend!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Jerry that looks awesome! I wouldn't change a thing your on track as far as I am concerned.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jerry I am way too inexperienced to see the "mistake" you are talking about. Looks good to me. Nice tight miters. If you are referring to the small gap on the bottom of the verticle part, I don't think it's that serious. If this is the back of the stand won't it be facing a wall anyway? 
I know you are a perfectionist so I am sure you will sort it out


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Yesterday spent a few hours gluing up additional walnut for the added stands he wants. Used up nearly all the walnut worth anything in the shop--not nearly,* all *the walnut. I also planned all the trim stock down to 1/2". Just like the look of 1/2 over 3/4 in some applications. I gotta get a band saw, what a waste of fine walnut!! 

Hope this weekend to get the dust collector from HF, gotta admit it kina scares me the HF part. I will have to, some day, get a better filter for it but for now it is better than what I have, two shop vac's. I will put it in the downstairs garage with a switched receptacle in the shop, probably a three way. At 139.00 marked down from 249.00 that is nearly the cost of two shop vacs so why not. While planning down all that walnut and cutting things down to rough size, I emptied the shop vac two times and it is probably nearly time to again.

I hate wasting all that walnut!!! BTW, we are going up to Ohio October 8-11, we will bring back some wood from a fella my bro-in-law knows. Mostly going to see how good it is and if at 1.00/bf it will be worth taking the trailer up there and getting a serious load. I will be getting maybe 200-300 bf in the Pathfinder and that will be heavy enough, about 800 -1000#. It will just depend upon the #'s /bf as too how much I get, and what kind. He has from apple to whatever all, most all for the 1.00/bf. 

I think I have gone to rambling time to stop and go do something productive.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Jery the Walnut looks tasty almost like Chocolate lol.

Looiking forward to seein ghte final results.

Have you tried using a thin Kerf blade to do your ripping to reduce waste onthe table saw? I bought a good thin kerf blade and I am very pleased with it.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I am using a thin kirf, 1/8 I believe. The waste is in planning them down so much, with a band saw, I could resaw because most of what I am using is 4/4 or more. Some was 5/4. I think my wife is begining to see that I am serious about this thing and is being less resistive to new shop equipment.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jerry

It's time to step up to the pump,,the band saw is the way to go ,but do get one with the lift kit  when you pickup your vac.system do pickup a trash can filter lid that you can snap on the trash can...it makes it easy to take out the chips  plus if you put in one of the lar.plastic bags in the trash can it's one pull and it's done.. plus make a base for the trash can with wheels on it so you have some mass on the bottom,they do like to flip over easy..

======



xplorx4 said:


> I am using a thin kirf, 1/8 I believe. The waste is in planning them down so much, with a band saw, I could resaw because most of what I am using is 4/4 or more. Some was 5/4. I think my wife is begining to see that I am serious about this thing and is being less resistive to new shop equipment.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Looking good Jerry! Wow you have such a nice clean shop. Sounds like a great deal on that DC! Just tell your wife how all those savings can be put towards that bandsaw!


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Jerry
> 
> It's time to step up to the pump,,the band saw is the way to go ,but do get one with the lift kit  when you pickup your vac.system do pickup a trash can filter lid that you can snap on the trash can...it makes it easy to take out the chips  plus if you put in one of the lar.plastic bags in the trash can it's one pull and it's done.. plus make a base for the trash can with wheels on it so you have some mass on the bottom,they do like to flip over easy..
> 
> ======


+1 on the trash can filter lid. Just last week I got a DC hood for my planer. In just a bit of testing I filled my DC1100 big bag about 30% with wood. I'm seriously thinking about getting one and leaving it permanently connected to my planer. Then I will just roll my DC up to the can and connect there. Its gottas be faster to empty than fighting with the large bag and spring on the DC itself.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> +1 on the trash can filter lid. Just last week I got a DC hood for my planer. In just a bit of testing I filled my DC1100 big bag about 30% with wood. I'm seriously thinking about getting one and leaving it permanently connected to my planer. Then I will just roll my DC up to the can and connect there. Its gottas be faster to empty than fighting with the large bag and spring on the DC itself.


I bought a cyclone separator from BusyBeeTools Busy Bee Tools Product Detail and it sure saves you from having to change out the plastic bag especially when you are using the planer. The other thing it does is protect your DC unit if larger pieces of wood get into the lines. If they hit the fins in the DC unit they can be damaged.

I also put blast gates on the two hoses running from the Y so the line coming off the DC splits into two - one for the Table saw and the other for the Planer. It got a little confusing with the hoses as to where they ran so I printed off on my label maker "Table saw" and Planer and attached it to the blast gate for ease of identifying the equipment.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Jerry, Boy that walnut is looking good. I can't wait to see the finished job! I did order some figured walnut and can't wait to try it out...should arrive next week sometime, probably make some clocks or other small nick nacks as gifts, maybe even try a box or two. I think the roundover is a nice touch.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

Most of the good vac.systems have a screen just b/4 the fins,,,it's in place to keep the big chips out of the fan,if you don't have one in place it's best to make one and put in place,,I dig the big chips out all the time with mine..

I did put one more in,it's a bit smaller just to be safe,it's not a big deal to clean it out it's a lot less work than taking the machine down to replace the fan...

I put it in the 6" inlet tube just b/4 the fan...3/4" square holes in the screen.. 

============



TRN_Diesel said:


> I bought a cyclone separator from BusyBeeTools Busy Bee Tools Product Detail and it sure saves you from having to change out the plastic bag especially when you are using the planer. The other thing it does is protect your DC unit if larger pieces of wood get into the lines. If they hit the fins in the DC unit they can be damaged.
> 
> I also put blast gates on the two hoses running from the Y so the line coming off the DC splits into two - one for the Table saw and the other for the Planer. It got a little confusing with the hoses as to where they ran so I printed off on my label maker "Table saw" and Planer and attached it to the blast gate for ease of identifying the equipment.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Dan
> 
> Most of the good vac.systems have a screen just b/4 the fins,,,it's in place to keep the big chips out of the fan,if you don't have one in place it's best to make one and put in place,,I dig the big chips out all the time with mine..
> 
> ...


What? Are you telling me you haven't added carbide tips to your DC fan blades yet, BJ? Just think of it as creating a combination DC and kitchen wood chipper... with a router flair! <g>


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

I do take my lead from Tim the Tool Man ,(MORE POWER) he did the kitchen thing to his garbage machine,,that would be neat for the DC system,,a chopper just b/4 it go's into the fan  if I recall he put a broom handle down the tube and then a 2 x 4  LOL LOL


========

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BigJimAK said:


> What? Are you telling me you haven't added carbide tips to your DC fan blades yet, BJ? Just think of it as creating a combination DC and kitchen wood chipper... with a router flair! <g>


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thanks everyone for your comments, Dan I need the plans for your sanding table, been sanding on that walnut, it coated the filter on the Jet 1000b in just a couple of hours. The other fans we have around the house will be used to blow stuff out the window, and that should help, but I need that sanding station. 

I think good quality plywood would work just as well as the MDF. HD has a special order lot of 4x8 7 ply paint grade one side. It would also be good for cabinets that are to be painted or veneered. The cost is 23.97/sheet. I would love to have about 10 or more sheets around just to have when needed. I have 5 so far and thinking of 5 more. These would be great to learn cabinet making with, make a mistake and most it should cost would be 24.00 instead of 48.00. Tell me what you think regarding the plywood. 

Well back to the shop and sand away!!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jerry be sure to wear a mask when sanding that walnut. It's nasty stuff!


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Jim
> 
> I do take my lead from Tim the Tool Man ,(MORE POWER) he did the kitchen thing to his garbage machine,,that would be neat for the DC system,,a chopper just b/4 it go's into the fan  if I recall he put a broom handle down the tube and then a 2 x 4  LOL LOL
> 
> ...


If you like Tim "The tool man" Taylor (Allen) and haven't seen it, you should check out his two HBO stand-up comedy specials. These were the routines that lead to the series. They each run 30-60 minutes so are multi-part on Youtube.com Search for Tim Allen and either "Men are pigs" (1st show) or "rewires America" (follow-up). Some of the language wouldn't pass broadcast TV during prime time but it's funny!

The series drew on some of his stand-up humor.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> Thanks everyone for your comments, Dan I need the plans for your sanding table, been sanding on that walnut, it coated the filter on the Jet 1000b in just a couple of hours. The other fans we have around the house will be used to blow stuff out the window, and that should help, but I need that sanding station.
> 
> I think good quality plywood would work just as well as the MDF. HD has a special order lot of 4x8 7 ply paint grade one side. It would also be good for cabinets that are to be painted or veneered. The cost is 23.97/sheet. I would love to have about 10 or more sheets around just to have when needed. I have 5 so far and thinking of 5 more. These would be great to learn cabinet making with, make a mistake and most it should cost would be 24.00 instead of 48.00. Tell me what you think regarding the plywood.
> 
> Well back to the shop and sand away!!


For sure thats a great price JerryI will send you the plans ASAP!


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Okay guys and gals, I got to worrying about Jerry and all that walnut sanding dust he claimed to be filling the air with, so I jumped in my truck and went to pay him a visit. HA! What dust? I could eat off his floors. Y'all kid me about my neat and organized shop, but I am a slob compared to this guy so don't let him fool you. :nono:

I enjoyed the visit as always and we both learn a little something from each other every time we get together. Thanks Jerry, you are an inspiration!


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> Thanks everyone for your comments, Dan I need the plans for your sanding table, been sanding on that walnut, it coated the filter on the Jet 1000b in just a couple of hours. The other fans we have around the house will be used to blow stuff out the window, and that should help, but I need that sanding station.
> 
> I think good quality plywood would work just as well as the MDF. HD has a special order lot of 4x8 7 ply paint grade one side. It would also be good for cabinets that are to be painted or veneered. The cost is 23.97/sheet. I would love to have about 10 or more sheets around just to have when needed. I have 5 so far and thinking of 5 more. These would be great to learn cabinet making with, make a mistake and most it should cost would be 24.00 instead of 48.00. Tell me what you think regarding the plywood.
> 
> Well back to the shop and sand away!!


Jerry,

I had the same thing happen with my 1000b when I was sanding Padauk, even with my DC runnung and a hood right by the sander. I was sure glad I could take off the outer filter and blow it out with a compressor. Same with the inner one. That's what's got me sold on retiring my Dewalt 423 ROS (with dust cannister) and replacing it with one I can hook to my shopvac/HEPA.

Hmm.. gotta go look to see if I can adapt the 423 first. It's a darned good sander!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I will be taking this stuff to the garage next to the shop and do sanding there with a couple fans behind me blowing outside. I do intend to make the sanding station per plans Dan has sent looks pretty straight forward to me. I will add it in with the speaker stands, down bath and fixing chair #3. I believe this is the worse one so far. See pics below,


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Look like you have your work cut out Jerry. WHat would will you be using to repair the chair?


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Look like you have your work cut out Jerry. WHat would will you be using to repair the chair?



Thought about using the chain saw, but it's not my chair. the side that has split, I am going to use a gusset plate on the back side of 1/4 oak I don't have the material on hand to remake the part although it would be easily done if I did have the maple. Looking at it I think someone has done a butcher job trying to fix it before. One of the reasons I enjoy fixing stuff up is it has increased my confidence a lot when it come to any project. I will be starting a thread on this one also.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

The "feet" for the stands has become a very involved process to be sure. 

Pic 1. Shows the feet on the mock-up except I wanted the finished ones to have a radius to them. 

Pic 2 This is the radius cutout; this is two sides attached in the middle. 

Pic 3 Bob suggested the DP with a hole saw--duh! I figured I would need some way to prevent the HS from trying to move so I made a pattern hole using a backer and a piece of scrap to take the place of the walnut while making the jig.

Pic 4&5 This is cutting out the walnut. This process worked great. One of the blessings of having a friend from the forum just 4 mile away is being able to get a new set of eyes and more importantly a fresh brain on the problem, thank you Bob!!!

Pic 6 Got them all cut, and the edges rounded over using an 1/8 round over. 

Pic 7 I will be attaching them from the bottom, therefore I needed to drill through each part with a hole for the screw and then using a forester 3/8 bit to counter sink the screw deep into the foot.

Pic 8 Having the holes drilled.

Pic 9-11 Forester hole drilled and (these have not been glued up yet) how they will look when done---well not quite but sort of.

Pic 12 My shop can get messy, just remember Bob was coming over and I had to clean it up some or he might not have come in!!:haha::haha:


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hey Jerry, those turned out really well and I'm glad we came up with a solution that worked for you. Thanks for having me over and for the benchtop protector. Is this rain ever going to stop?


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Bob said:


> Is this rain ever going to stop?


Weren't you guys in GA just complaining a little while back it wasn't raining at all?........ (I felt the same way this spring)


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

kp91 said:


> Weren't you guys in GA just complaining a little while back it wasn't raining at all?........ (I felt the same way this spring)


Hey Doug.... you weren't supposed to notice/remember that


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Jerry the feet for the speaker standds are looking great. NOw imagine how difficult that would be without the drill press.

Your a fine craftsman and yes it does pay to bounce ideas off someone else.

P.S.

The Walnut looks tasty I am drooling.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

kp91 said:


> Weren't you guys in GA just complaining a little while back it wasn't raining at all?........ (I felt the same way this spring)


not complaining I like rain. The only thing I can say when it is raining, Is "if it would keep it up, it wouldn't come down". Don't start telling me how bad that is I already know that.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Hi Jerry,

You are making excellent progress and making it look easy...that's a sign of an experienced craftsman. I will be interested in how you go about fixing the chair.

Speaking of rain, I went camping this weekend with some friends up in the Pisgah National Forest...pretty miserable, but had fun. It was no fun breaking camp in the rain, but we do need the rain.

PS Nice clean shop


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

dustmaker said:


> Hi Jerry,
> 
> You are making excellent progress and making it look easy...that's a sign of an experienced craftsman. I will be interested in how you go about fixing the chair.
> 
> ...


Thank you for your kind words, now about camping, Where didi you camp at in Pisah? I have heard there are some roads that it is nice to have 4WD. We like camping just haven't gone in a good while. It could be far fetchred but maybe we could hook up some time and go together. We were in Big Bend TX around thanksgiving time a cold front came through and it got cold, so we packed wet and cold it was fun.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jerry I have a whole room full of chairs that need repair. More of the spouse's "antiques". Whatever. Sometimes I think it sould be easier to just build a new chair from scratch then repair these. I'll be watching your posts for tips.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Bob said:


> Okay guys and gals, I got to worrying about Jerry and all that walnut sanding dust he claimed to be filling the air with, so I jumped in my truck and went to pay him a visit. HA! What dust? I could eat off his floors. Y'all kid me about my neat and organized shop, but I am a slob compared to this guy so don't let him fool you. :nono:
> 
> I enjoyed the visit as always and we both learn a little something from each other every time we get together. Thanks Jerry, you are an inspiration!


Hey Bob I got the shop vac hooked up to the sander, much better.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Jerry the feet for the speaker standds are looking great. NOw imagine how difficult that would be without the drill press.
> 
> Your a fine craftsman and yes it does pay to bounce ideas off someone else.
> 
> ...


I suspect after a few cuts I would have given up and tried something else. The pics were taken during the night watch, watching the basement spring leaks in 3 places. The one place is a place where one might have a leak, but the other two are from shoddy work when the house was built. One was at the inlet of the water and the other is where the sewer line penetrates the concrete. We were fortunate that the bedroom floor did not get wet, at least not yet!! On the bright side a bunch of stuff got wet and will have to be disposed of should have been disposed of long ago.

We have emptied the rain gage twice so far for 10" and it is half full already is pouring again.

Pic 1,3,4 show getting the sander and the shop vac working together.

Pic 2-7 Getting the ?????????I don't know what it called, the things that go on the things, the top ready to cut to length and glue up. (If anyone knows what to call it tell me please. At any rate I cut them out, sanded them and did a 1/8 round over on them.

Pic 8&9 gluing up the feet, hop it works but there they are, and have 3 more to cut and glue. BTW if it doesn't work I ain't telling no body!!

As you might see, it has been a somewhat eventful night.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> Thank you for your kind words, now about camping, Where didi you camp at in Pisah? I have heard there are some roads that it is nice to have 4WD. We like camping just haven't gone in a good while. It could be far fetchred but maybe we could hook up some time and go together. We were in Big Bend TX around thanksgiving time a cold front came through and it got cold, so we packed wet and cold it was fun.


Hi Jerry,

I went with some fellows from my astronomy club to the Pisgah Astronomical Research Institute. 
Welcome to PARI — PARI WebSite
Camping there is by permission only. The idea was to be able to take telescopes and do some night sky observing from a dark location, but the rain ruled that out. Still it was enjoyable touring the facility. It was used by NASA during the 60's as a tracking station for the Apollo missions. 

I would enjoy meeting you and going camping some time, but it would probably have to be next year as I am low on vacation days if I want to spend time with my family around Christmas time  

Now to bring it back on topic  it looks like the night was productive. How did the feet make out with the tape "clamps"? It looks like these are screwed on so the joint is more cosmetic than structural, so I don't know that I would concern myself too much with the glue up (these kinds of things can be patched to look nice, if needed ).


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> I suspect after a few cuts I would have given up and tried something else. The pics were taken during the night watch, watching the basement spring leaks in 3 places. The one place is a place where one might have a leak, but the other two are from shoddy work when the house was built. One was at the inlet of the water and the other is where the sewer line penetrates the concrete. We were fortunate that the bedroom floor did not get wet, at least not yet!! On the bright side a bunch of stuff got wet and will have to be disposed of should have been disposed of long ago.
> 
> We have emptied the rain gage twice so far for 10" and it is half full already is pouring again.
> 
> ...


Looking good Jerry! 

Have you ever considered using elastic bands to help hold the pieces together during glue up, it may save you a roll ir two of tape?


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Looking good Jerry!
> 
> Have you ever considered using elastic bands to help hold the pieces together during glue up, it may save you a roll ir two of tape?


DAG NABIT I forgot!!! It was so late, use plastic electrical tape pulling it tight works great, bummer. Not all is lost; I still have some to go. The way I have done it before was use the blue then wrap it with plastic tape, you know the black stuff!!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Keep it in mind and check in the spring.




dustmaker said:


> Hi Jerry,
> 
> I went with some fellows from my astronomy club to the Pisgah Astronomical Research Institute.
> Welcome to PARI — PARI WebSite
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jerry

You may want to think about cam's to hold the small parts for glue up time, it just take some 1/2" to 3/4" dowel rod, cut offs with a hole drilled off center, put the parts in place on some scrap wood and cam the parts it place until the glue sets..

=========


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jerry you do such nice work. Sorry to hear about your leaks. But with all that rain it's not surprising, the water is just PUSHING it's way in by now.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> Hey Bob I got the shop vac hooked up to the sander, much better.


Jerry,

I have a DW423 ROS that has a dust port that looks identical to yours but the "catcher" is a square foam box. Did yours come with the adapter for a vacuum? If so, can I get a model number to try to order it as a "spare part"? I spent some time this weekend thinking about retiring mine due to dust but don't want to.. for its a heckuva good sander!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

BJ good plan, just learning. Do you use wax paper or something else to keep the parts from sticking to scrap material? As I have been doing all this, I keep coming up with ways to keep things safer and better managed. That is a fun aspect of thei woodworking.





bobj3 said:


> Hi Jerry
> 
> You may want to think about cam's to hold the small parts for glue up time, it just take some 1/2" to 3/4" dowel rod, cut offs with a hole drilled off center, put the parts in place on some scrap wood and cam the parts it place until the glue sets..
> 
> =========


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I shall look into that, the hose stays attached by the suction created and is no problem with coming off unless you shut off the shop vac, Bob was the one to suggest this method, we tried the bigger hose and no joy, later I tried the smaller one and success.




BigJimAK said:


> Jerry,
> 
> I have a DW423 ROS that has a dust port that looks identical to yours but the "catcher" is a square foam box. Did yours come with the adapter for a vacuum? If so, can I get a model number to try to order it as a "spare part"? I spent some time this weekend thinking about retiring mine due to dust but don't want to.. for its a heckuva good sander!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

NOt sure I can picture what your talking about Jerry. Is it possible to snap a few pictures off to help explain better? Reference BJ sugestion and Jim's with the vacuum.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jerry

I don't care for wax paper but I do use white butcher paper, it's coated on one side with a wax coating I think and the other side is just clean paper..

The butcher paper is a bit wider and I can use masking tape to hold it down in place on the work bench I also use it for small paint jobs or glue ups 

I put down a small corner frame (scrap wood) and put the part in the right angle pocket and put the cams down to lock the part in place..
It also works great for picture frames 


==========




xplorx4 said:


> BJ good plan, just learning. Do you use wax paper or something else to keep the parts from sticking to scrap material? As I have been doing all this, I keep coming up with ways to keep things safer and better managed. That is a fun aspect of thei woodworking.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Here's what was trying to say by the square attachment, square foam box. Naturally I have parts 28 and 29.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> Here's what was trying to say by the square attachment, square foam box. Naturally I have parts 28 and 29.


This is for you and Dan. My newer shop vac came with a smaller hose, I can slip this on the miter saw and it might get 50% but that is better than 0%. I works with the sander, just plug it in, turn it on and it will stay attached.

This is roughly what the bases will look like; I don't have the roundovering done. I like the way the feet turned out, better than I thought actually.

The drill press has been a life saver on this project; I would have been forever getting the holes drilled, much less getting them done correctly.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Jerry,

Glad to see you escaped the rains with little damage. Good work on those speaker stand feet and it looks like you have much improved the dust situation with the shop vac attachment. I think the ultumate answer is going to be Dan's downdraft table and a dust collector, but until then, this will get you by a little better. I do ALL my sanding outside, just too messy for the shop for me.

Just finished emptying my shop of over 100 gallons of water and now trying to dehumidify it overnight. No real damage, but a lot of hard work. I already have a call in to my handyman to look at raising the floor and extending my porch cover to improve things out there and avoid any future flooding.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I have on several occasions found myself getting my fingers a little closer to a 12" blade when making miter cuts on small items. Today I tried something different. I used two pieces of plywood (it's what I first laid my hands on) to extend the fence to the very center of the saw. I cut a 45D miter in each turned the one around so both miters were in the direction of the blade and got the fool thing away from my fingers. (See pics below, sorry the pics are out of order)

Pic 1 and 5 are the cuts I do not like doing.

Pic 3 is the standard fence of this DW, not real good for small pieces.

Pic 2 is with the fence in place closing up the area and giving a much steadier place to hold the piece being cut.

Pic 4 is where I realized by turning the left fence over there was just a narrow slot for the blade and lots of safer room to secure the piece being cut. This would work for the other side also.

I am sure most of the folks would say use the table saw for these cuts and maybe if I practiced more I could get as fast with it as I am with the miter saw. So for now keep the saw tuned up and have at it.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

We did get some water in the basement, but I would discover the leak just in time to keep it out of the carpet in Jason's room. I found one source of water and tomorrow I will mix a slurry of concrete and pour it down that hole and pour a small pad on top of it to keep it out in the future, I hope!! The other source is a small crack in the concrete wall so I will dig it up outside and seal it as well as silicone the inside.



Bob said:


> Hi Jerry,
> 
> Glad to see you escaped the rains with little damage. Good work on those speaker stand feet and it looks like you have much improved the dust situation with the shop vac attachment. I think the ultumate answer is going to be Dan's downdraft table and a dust collector, but until then, this will get you by a little better. I do ALL my sanding outside, just too messy for the shop for me.
> 
> Just finished emptying my shop of over 100 gallons of water and now trying to dehumidify it overnight. No real damage, but a lot of hard work. I already have a call in to my handyman to look at raising the floor and extending my porch cover to improve things out there and avoid any future flooding.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> I have on several occasions found myself getting my fingers a little closer to a 12" blade when making miter cuts on small items. Today I tried something different.


Good idea, Jerry. Anything that gets your fingers farther from the cutter is an improvement in my book! I've got a miter saw on my wish list but hadn't thought to look closely at the fences, or how I can make them safe for small pieces. You can bet that now I will now. Thank you!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jerry I would prefer the miter saw for those cuts as well. The fence is a great idea. I'll keep that tip for future reference.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Hi Jerry,

The auxiliary fence is a great idea. Along with that I also made a zero clearance insert according to the write up here:
http://www.woodnet.net/plansnow/mitersawtips.pdf
The accuracy and smoothness of my cuts increased greatly after making these two changes. The zero clearance insert not only prevents tear out but it gives you a good visual clue as to where the blade is going to cut.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> I have on several occasions found myself getting my fingers a little closer to a 12" blade when making miter cuts on small items. Today I tried something different. I used two pieces of plywood (it's what I first laid my hands on) to extend the fence to the very center of the saw. I cut a 45D miter in each turned the one around so both miters were in the direction of the blade and got the fool thing away from my fingers. (See pics below, sorry the pics are out of order)
> 
> Pic 1 and 5 are the cuts I do not like doing.
> 
> ...


Did you ever get around to building the mitre sled for the tablesaw? It is the reason I built mine when I see the smaller pieces you are trying to cut as well.

It will allow you to make precise cuts in a much safer manner.

Good work on the jig you came up with.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Did you ever get around to building the mitre sled for the tablesaw? It is the reason I built mine when I see the smaller pieces you are trying to cut as well.
> 
> It will allow you to make precise cuts in a much safer manner.
> 
> Good work on the jig you came up with.


Ok,Ok so shoot me!! need I say any more? I do have an excuse of late though my son has not hooked up the printer since we do his TV. I guess I keep thinking I won't need it untill the flag display cases coming up soon but it would sure work here too. Back to the e-mails and get it printed.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

> The auxiliary fence is a great idea. Along with that I also made a zero clearance insert according to the write up here:
> http://www.woodnet.net/plansnow/mitersawtips.pdf


Thanks Frank!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> Ok,Ok so shoot me!! need I say any more? I do have an excuse of late though my son has not hooked up the printer since we do his TV. I guess I keep thinking I won't need it untill the flag display cases coming up soon but it would sure work here too. Back to the e-mails and get it printed.


LOL ok was just wondering but trust me when I say you will use it a lot sort of like the drill press. You will wonder why you never built it sooner. Fast and easy cuts made SAFELY!

As for the dust creation Jerry with the Mobile Sanding station and the sander hooked up to the shop vac there is virtually no dust. Plus you can use two hands to sand because the suction of the down draft table will hold your piece in place.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I got out the 3/4 MDF and will work on it before anything else. I have some oak for the slots and for the 45d things. I will probably try to work in the jig the 22.5o cuts for flag cases.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Last evening, got all the edges rounded on the top and bottom pieces of walnut. I will do a final sanding, and put things together. I got the plywood ready to cut after taking a bunch of water soaked things to the curb for trash pick-up today. I really want to get one basically done so as to see if what I have planed is what I really want. So far I am happy with the way the upper and lower portions are turning out.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

The pictures are of the birch plywood that I will be using for the risers. I am thinking of using the 45d on the corners. This could be a real challenge. Only the front will be 45ed, the back will fit into a daddo on each of the sides, and will be 1/4 MDF and removable. Looking at it now, I am not sure that 10"X10" really is big enough for the base, I think I should have maybe gone with 12"X12". A little late now so I will be looking to get lead to but into the base.

If I can get the 45's done correctly, I will put a decorative touch to the center of the column, or maybe an inlay like I did on the flag display case. I guess I lean toward the three lines on the front two longer on the outside with one shorter in the middle of the front of the case.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> ...so I will be looking to get lead to but into the base.


Jerry,

About 7 years ago my SIL sent me a "craft-type" paper towel dispenser with a moose accent. It kept falling over on her (and had broken) because it was too top heavy. As I started out trying to figure out how to fix it my dear bride decided she wanted one just like it. Off to the shop my (then) 11yo son and I went...

He scroll sawed the pieces and we sanded, stained and finished them. I was talking with another boy scout parent who offered me some shotgun shot.. lead pellets. I simply made the base double-thick and routed out the center, filled it with shot and back-filled with epoxy and covered with felt.

In hindsight I probably could have gotten away with one piece for the base cuz it's *heavy* now and the solid epoxy/lead added strength to the hollowed out wood. Just one easy way to add invisible lead, Jerry...

I've attached some pictures of Mister Moose.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I like the idea of buck shot and epoxy I would think that just a few # would be all that was needed to keep the center of gravity low.





BigJimAK said:


> Jerry,
> 
> About 7 years ago my SIL sent me a "craft-type" paper towel dispenser with a moose accent. It kept falling over on her (and had broken) because it was too top heavy. As I started out trying to figure out how to fix it my dear bride decided she wanted one just like it. Off to the shop my (then) 11yo son and I went...
> 
> ...


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Looks great so far Jerry! Just be careful with the birch plywood when you stain it to match the Walnut. I find Birch is prone to blotching and you may want to use a sealer on the Birch prior to staining to minimize blotching and to give you a better covering for evenness of the stain.

If you have any leftover Birch I would suggest to do some trial runs on it first to see how it turns out.

You mentioned the back piece will be MDF. Will the back be out of sight or will you paint it dark brown to match the Walnut?

Looking forward to seeeing the final speaker stand completed Jerry keep on plugging away my friend.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Actually the birch will not be stained, it will be left natural. I will be applying some walnut pieces to it to tie the top to the bottom. This plywood I got is already finished, when Peach State Lumber got it in the finish was not what they wanted so they dumped it at half off so I got three sheets, wish I'd gotten more. At any rate I will work one up and see how I like it and go from there.

The MDF will be recessed into the vertical so it will not be seen very easily.

I think I shall go cut a couple pieces of walnut and set them on the birch to show what I have in mind.

I know that is a real contrast, but I just want to play around with this as it will not go far and I will always be able to make changes if I am not happy with the outcome.




TRN_Diesel said:


> Looks great so far Jerry! Just be careful with the birch plywood when you stain it to match the Walnut. I find Birch is prone to blotching and you may want to use a sealer on the Birch prior to staining to minimize blotching and to give you a better covering for evenness of the stain.
> 
> If you have any leftover Birch I would suggest to do some trial runs on it first to see how it turns out.
> 
> ...


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I can't show you the final speaker stand but here is a close proximity of the speaker stand. The riser will be about 1-2" bigger across and will be a maximum of 36" high. It took me a while to figuring out how to do the risers. Thought about 45D on the corners but that tends toward messed up corners. Could use either butt or dado but that means some kind of corner treatment that I just didn't care for then this morning I came up with this method. I must of seen it someplace but I am not sure where. One thing I know I am sure this is the direction I will want to go . These are not well
done and I will have to work on getting them cleaner. I did the 1/4" with the router and the rest with table saw. I will also have to get some more walnut to finish this project. At the base I just set some trim to see how that will look,


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Lookin' good, Jerry!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thank you. Funny thing how people will say they "don't care" until all of a sudden "they care". I always ask Jason if this or that is OK and he always says he doesn't care but he does. The only thing he wants is to make the column 5"X5" which is what I had considered doing in the first place. Now all I have to do is get the walnut this week and get moving again. I have enough for maybe 2 columns and will get going on those right away.




BigJimAK said:


> Lookin' good, Jerry!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Just had to see how things would look with some finish on it so one coat wipe on polly I think I will like the contrast of the two woods with all natural finish. Looking at it in the Pics, I think I should do the back corners same as the front. Will look better from the sides. The center will be 5x5 the one pictured is 3 1/4x 3 1/4.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Those stands are looking AWESOME Jerry!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

They are very classy Jerry! I agree with doing all 4 corners in the walnut. And I think the wider panels will look VERY nice indeed!


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Hey Jerry,

That is some interesting joinery. Thanks for sharing. I think the speaker stands are going to look great. Keep it up!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Got the walnut yesterday so will be putting to good use the DC so should be back on it in a day or so.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I got the walnut needed to finish this project Tuesday last week, after rearranging the shop to put DC to work on jointer and planner; I began to process the walnut.

Awhile back seems someone asked about favorite woods, well mine is walnut and has been since teen years. Walnut stained anything is not walnut. I like other woods that are a good contrast to walnut i.e. birch, white oak etc, I would think most of my projects, if possible, will be walnut!!


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Now don't be shy, tell us how you feel. You like walnut, right? :yes4: Hard not to, it is a very interesting wood to work with and the grain sure is purty. :happy: I bought a pile of figured walnut pieces that I will do something with, when the inspiration moves me. Probably turn some pens (lathe is on order!) or make some clocks or boxes out of it.
How'd that dust collector work out? I'd be interested in hearing your experiences...if you posted another thread, my apologies, I may have missed it.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

The dust collector in conjunction with the Jet 1000B is a great combination. I had a post in the Lobby under next installment for a cleaner, safer shop or something like that. For now I can only hook up the joiner and planner. Need to spend some money for "accessories" and between the trip to Ohio to get wood and Max the Pug needing a cyst removed from his back while being kenneled well there goes items I would like to one day get vs living.

The Ohio trip may provide a good source of wood at a very good price for me and some friends. All air dried is 1.00/bf and kiln dried is 2.00/bf. His air dried is 12% moisture and Kiln dried is 8%. As someone pointed out to me the 8% over time becomes 12% here anyway. This trip will become a source of wood or a waste of time and money, we will see. If it works out I can pull a 14' trailer up there and get a goodly amout with some friends. By this time next week I will know the answer.




dustmaker said:


> Now don't be shy, tell us how you feel. You like walnut, right? :yes4: Hard not to, it is a very interesting wood to work with and the grain sure is purty. :happy: I bought a pile of figured walnut pieces that I will do something with, when the inspiration moves me. Probably turn some pens (lathe is on order!) or make some clocks or boxes out of it.
> How'd that dust collector work out? I'd be interested in hearing your experiences...if you posted another thread, my apologies, I may have missed it.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Jerry,

Glad to hear the DC is working out...I am still thinking about what I want to do so your experience is important to me. Regarding Max, we too have an old dog and it can be a challenge sometimes, both from financial and emotional stress, so I understand. I am envious of your Ohio trip, sounds like a great deal! I hope it works out for you.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Posted somewhere last evening some pics on progress since the accident but should have posted it here, I am not sure that the fingers were the main part of the injury, if you know what I mean!! I have found it and will get this up to date and keep on moving!!

I have begun to assemble the parts that Bob helped me with.

Pic 1-3 I made a little jig to assemble two corner pieces with one center piece.
Pic4&6 Assembly of pedestal. Keeping it square is good, used blocks at the ends.

Now I am sure someone knows a better way so I am all eyes to learn it. It’s funny, but can still feel it hit. Tomorrow I see a hand specialist to see if the ring finger can be repaired at all.

I will try to keep posts under proper headings in the future!! :dance3:


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

So far my experience has been very positive. I only have the jointer and planer hooked up but hope to get the rest hooked up in the not too distant future. If I had it to do again I would still have gotten the Jet 1000B first. That keeps the air clean, great machine!!



dustmaker said:


> Jerry,
> 
> Glad to hear the DC is working out...I am still thinking about what I want to do so your experience is important to me. Regarding Max, we too have an old dog and it can be a challenge sometimes, both from financial and emotional stress, so I understand. I am envious of your Ohio trip, sounds like a great deal! I hope it works out for you.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Good to see you back in the shop Jerry!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

*for you Bob*



Bob said:


> Good to see you back in the shop Jerry!


This one is for you, #4,000.

Jerry


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Ha! You finally made it, now on to #5000 :happy:


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Bob said:


> Ha! You finally made it, now on to #5000 :happy:


Easy to do when you don't say anything!!


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> Easy to do when you don't say anything!!


I dunno about that, Jerry. I know *I've* learned a lot from your posts.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Well we got one, no two, of the pedestal thingies mostly done. He, and me, thinks 36" looks a little strange (to say the least) so we will cut them down to about 26 or 27". I will take pics and post later today. My goal is to get these two done before Monday, I should make it.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thank you Jim I appreciate that.




BigJimAK said:


> I dunno about that, Jerry. I know *I've* learned a lot from your posts.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I second that Jerry you have done a lot on this forum to advance many of us in a search for mastering the art of wood working.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Absolutely Jerry! Your shop and your projects have been an inspiration!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Those are mighty kind words from ya'll, and when I consider the sources,--well they mean even more, thank you.


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## Schechner (Oct 13, 2009)

Interesting - I built a couple of speaker stands for my neighbor as a sort of consignment thing several months ago. He's the guitarist in a death metal band (a very popular one internationally, I found out), and he transformed his basement into a recording studio. He asked me to build him speaker stands, and they ended up looking _very_ similar to the mockups. I didn't go off a plan, just a design I came up with.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Ya no plan here, just came up with it, put it on paper and cut away. It's just that I got carried away with the cutting. :sarcastic:

The pic is two that are closets to being done. I still have trim to do around the base and the top of the pedestal to hid screws and such.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

This project should be starting up again very soon, I sure am ready to do some work down stairs. I did some sorting of the walnut, I have found 5 sets of bookmatch boards. It will take some work getting then ready but that is why I went that route. I had never even concidered that there would be any bookmatching of anything, much less 5 sets!! :dance3::dance3:


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

That's great news, Jerry!!


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Very cool, Jerry. I can't wait to see what you will make will all this good stuff!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

As posted under the one in shop safety, it will be somewhat longer than I thught, 5-6 weeks longer.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

This past weekend I got back onto the speaker stands for Jason. I have put the first finish coat on the tops and bottoms. I will be getting into them after we get ready for a visit from one of her sisters. It is great to be getting back into the shop.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Glad to hear you are getting back to it Jerry. We are looking forward to seeing the final results.  But don't rush it, haste makes waste as they say.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

From the pics Jerry, it looks as if your are well on the road to recovery. But as Deb says, don't rush it. You might run into a pot hole on that road to recovery.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Last night I finished cutting the material for the up-rights and will begin this weekend to glue them up. Is everyone's life a madhouse this time of the year or just mine??


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Our house sure feels like an asylum right about now.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I will second the mad house. Got to love the christmas rush.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Got the cuts done for the vertical portions and will start to fabricate tomorrow, then it will be prep time for everything else. The bases and tops are turning out even better than I'd hoped. In the background is thd top for Bill's project.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Look great Jerry I can not wait to see the finished product.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Neither can I! It will take some pressure off that is resulting from all the Christmas things, you know what I mean. Actually some if not all is self induced. I think I will get some rest and start again tomorrow.




TRN_Diesel said:


> Look great Jerry I can not wait to see the finished product.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Finally these will be finished!! Every thing is out the door and nothing new starts till these are done!! Started putting the columns together dry fit and the first thing I have learned is to be way more careful regarding the fit so a lot of work will be needed to clean things up before fabrication is started. I will work harder at the documentation also!! More to come.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jerry you have been on a steady roll for quite a while! Congrats on finishing all these beautiful projects!


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Yeah, I will have to say: you got back up on the horse and you are riding hard. I am glad to see it.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Frank trust me I look very carefully at the saw every time I use it, that and every power tool I have!! I have paused more than once to see if what I was doing was safe!!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Got going on this project finally!! 

Pic 1 shows the pieces needed to make up the column, 4 corners and 4 of the side. 

Pic 2 on this jig we mated up 2 corners to one side. Each stand is made up of these corner/sides and 2 sides. (Trust me this is much easier done than said) 

Pics 3-6 show the jig and corner blocks we made up to fabricate each corner. We made the the outside corner blocks from a maple block, we oriented the grain diagonal across the blocks to make them less likely to split in the corner.

Pic 5 is to show why there are pieces of wood double sticky taped to the blocks.

Pic 7 four columns down two to go.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jerry very ingenious work on the jigs. The columns are looking great!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Way to adapt and make things work for you Jerry.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Getting close , finish the column trim, install 1/4 all thread get wires fished and done! Sorry things got out of order;

Pic 1&6 How it will be trimed
Pic 2 there they are
Pic 3 1/4" all thread will attached top to bottom and hold the units together but will still be able to take them apart. 
Pic 4 How I will get the wire run without having it hang down outside stand.

Next post should be done.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Looking really good Jerry. Can't wait to see the end result.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

This is coming together wonderfully, Jerry!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Ther are awesome Jerry! He is going to have one classy set up!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I can't wait either, but mostly to see them done!!!




TRN_Diesel said:


> Looking really good Jerry. Can't wait to see the end result.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

All is complete except running the speaker wires and setting the speakers. The last pic is a magazine rack I have put off building until now. The middle pic is two of the four jigs made to square the columns. Unknowingly they are made of spalted maple (when I grabbed the block to cut these from I didn't notice that the block was spalted maple) I have decided to keep them to use on future projects, besides I like how they have turned out. The last pic is all four of these are being kept for future duty. BTW I have no idea how "spalted" is spelled.

I have learned some very valuable lessons in the course of this build. First and foremost must be "KEEP YOUR COTTON PICKING HANDS AWAY FROM THE SAW BLADE"!!!!:stop::shout::shout::nono: Next would be get all similar cuts all done at one time so things will be more uniform. Get help when needed. There are others but not for tonight.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Those stands are awesome Jerry! Well done!


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Great work Jerry. Jason will be proud of them. Hope the finger is coming along nicely.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Jerry, I know it has been a long hard row on this one, but you persevered and the project was a success. Those stands look awesome! I would be proud to own them and would make sure everyone knew who the craftsman was who built them! I know Jason will be very pleased.


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## PlayasTeo (Nov 14, 2009)

Excellent work Jerry!..... congratulations, those columns look really nice.I like the contrasting wood very much.
Teo


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thought I would show set up with speaker. The speaker wire runs internal so it is hidden. Pic 1 all thread used to secure the top to the bottom. Pic 2 exploded view. Pic 3 attaching the base. Pic 4 The wire is run through the column.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Beautiful work, Jerry... They came out first class.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Awesome, Jerry.

Well worth the time and effort.

James


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