# Routing a single board :help:



## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

My wife is wanting to finish a tile job in the foyer. We are going to overlap the tile on the top step going to the downstairs den (split foyer house). I intend to put a board with a decorative edge under the tile at the top of the riser. I can use a wide board, rout it and then trim it on the TS. What is the safest and best way to secure the board? Board will only be about 33 in. long. Thanks!


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Bench dogs, bench vise or router mat immediately come to mind.


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## xvimbi (Sep 29, 2009)

It so much depends on the dimensions of the board (width, not just length) and what exactly you do want to rout. Is it going to be an edge job, or do you want to rout flutes across the board, or... ? Do you want to rout along the long edge(s) or along the short edge(s), etc.?

A router mat is indeed very nice, but these somewhat sticky rubber drawer liners will probably work as well. Some sort of clamping usually also does the trick. All that assuming you intend to rout free-hand.

Cheers! MM


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

John, how do you intend to rout the edge? router table, handheld, skis?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Knothead47 said:


> My wife is wanting to finish a tile job in the foyer. We are going to overlap the tile on the top step going to the downstairs den (split foyer house). I intend to put a board with a decorative edge under the tile at the top of the riser. I can use a wide board, rout it and then trim it on the TS. What is the safest and best way to secure the board? Board will only be about 33 in. long. Thanks!


Hi John - My first choice would be the router table. Second choice would probably be to clamp it to the edge of the workbench. Of course, those choices are given MY resources, your resources are very likely different.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Board will be a 1 X 4 oak, more than likely. Don't have a router table, yet. Just doing a Roman ogee on one edge, the length of the board. Thanks for the help.


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## xvimbi (Sep 29, 2009)

Check out: Installation Guide for Solid Surface Countertops | Extreme How To, DIY - Do it Yourself, Home Improvement, Home Decorating

(scroll down to the picture with caption "Routing a Straight Edge after Cutting with a Circular Saw")

So, just put the board on the table, the end to be routed hanging over the table edge. Put a piece of wood with the same thickness as your stock at the end as a backer. Put a straight edge at the right distance from the edge. Clamp the assembly to the table. Make a dry run to make sure the router doesn't interfere with the clamps. Rout away!

If you envision doing something like this more often, then make a jig. This is probably the router jig that people make first. Something like this:

Free Wood Router Jig Plans - How to Build A Wood Router Jig

Similar versions work for jigsaws and circular saws as well.

Cheers! MM


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

If it were me, I'd use a router table with vert. & horz. feather boards. A 1x4 would be a bit tricky of a balancing act for a hand held router unless it's grouped with sacrificial boards. 

Just my thoughts.


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## cbsjoez1935 (Mar 14, 2007)

John,
It sounds like you are attempting to make a saddle separating two dissimilar areas. What confused me in your original post was that you first say you want to overlap the tile and then you say you want put the decorative edge under the tile. Can't have it both ways unless you are going tile to tile. Assuming you are going wooden steps to tile floor, I would match the flat end of the saddle to meet or overlap the stair riser and you could put a round over on it. To put a decorative edge where it meets the tile, is nice if its purpose is to make up the difference in height between the saddle and the tile. I may have gotten off the beaten path with the above but to put a decorative edge on the board, you need to follow the advice previously given and that is to clamp the board securely, with the edge to be routed hanging over the workbench. A router table can be made with just a simple piece of 3/8" plywood clamped to a workmate or a workbench. That would be the simplest way, in my humble opinion. Good luck with it.

Joe Z.


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## xvimbi (Sep 29, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> If it were me, I'd use a router table with vert. & horz. feather boards. A 1x4 would be a bit tricky of a balancing act for a hand held router unless it's grouped with sacrificial boards.


You bring up a good point. 'Riser' and 'stairs' made me assume that "1 X 4" meant 1ft x 4ft, but I might be totally wrong. If it is 1" x 4", then sacrificial boards will definitely be required for proper hand-held routing. MM


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Not having a table in this instance isn't a problem. You can always make a hole through a plain piece of plywood. and attach with a clamp on one edge of the bench. Find something to support the other side so the table is solid, and straight.Bolt the router in place, and You have a table mounted router for emergency's. More clamps to hold a straight board for a fence, and adjust the fence by moving the fence where you need it and then clamp. If You are using s router bit with a bearing on top, You can use it to cut the desired shape on the board, and You are ready to refinish the piece. sand the molding as needed, and mount it. Have fun..


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## xvimbi (Sep 29, 2009)

*Use a simple jig*

Here is another way using a simple holding jig. The jig consists of a piece of 3/4" MDF or plywood, 12"x4". On top of that you attach two pieces of 4"x4" MDF, such that you have a 4"x4" opening in the middle with the long piece acting as a base. Slide your 1"x4" board into the opening to trap it and clamp the whole thing down. Two of these jigs, one at each end of your board, will securely trap the board, and they will also elevate the board off the work table, so that you won't run the risk of routing into the work surface. Put some small pieces of 3/4" scraps under your stock in places to prevent it from flexing when you rout the edge.

I hope you get the idea. Such jigs come in handy for a myriad of manipulation tasks. Get fancy and equip the jigs with slots and hold-downs for adapting them to stock of any width. They are essentially a luxury version of bench cookies. 

Cheers! MM


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

he doesn't have a router tabe That is what i would us also I have 3 router tables and use them every day


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

I've got to give a reply to you folks. Thanks for all the acvice. I tried to free-hand with the router. Fair but could be much better! I'm going to have to build a simple table. I have looked over some tables on the forum and printed off a couple to look at in detail. I'm not going to do anything fancy, just functional. Then..........I'll tackle one with the drawers, DC system, etc.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Knothead47 said:


> I've got to give a reply to you folks. Thanks for all the acvice. I tried to free-hand with the router. Fair but could be much better! I'm going to have to build a simple table. I have looked over some tables on the forum and printed off a couple to look at in detail. I'm not going to do anything fancy, just functional. Then..........I'll tackle one with the drawers, DC system, etc.



John,

What make/model router do you have?

I see that Gary Rogowski just uses a 3' x 2' piece of melamine and screws the router up through that. That is all you need for a very basic table.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

jw2170, I have an inexpensive Skil router. model #1810, 1-3/4 HP. I didn't want to get a real expensive one right now until I see how much I will be using it. FWIW, I was in a pawn shop a couple of months ago and saw a Freud router for $129.95 that looked like new. Didn't have the $$$$ to spend at that time!
Again, many thanks for the replies. Going to start to section off part of the garage/basement to keep the dust off everything else. Then.....start making wood chips and sawdust! Let's see router table, planer stand, stand for drill press stand and bench grinder, etc., ad infinitum, ad nauseum.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

I have four pieces of MDF/melamine that were sink cutouts from a local cabinet shop. These are some projects on the board. I called to see what he did with cutouts and if I could have some. "Yes, if you don't take them, I just throw them in the dumpster." Damaged countertops are repaired and donated to Habitat for Humanity. Thought that was good in his part!


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