# Rabbet bit chopping wood!!



## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

I bought a cheapie 3/8 rabbet bit yesterday and slapped it in my #890 under the table. Went to run some red oak to do a 3/8 rabbet. Man oh man that thing chomped and chattered and ripped hell out of the cut. Am I doing something wrong here? It makes the cut sure enough but it is a pretty ragged looking mess. Should I be taking this cut in two or three passes, going a little deeper each time? Is there something I have forgotten??


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

I bought a cheapie 3/8 rabbet bit yesterday = that may be your answare carbide or junk = on the end grain their may be some tare out but should be slite 3/8" not all that bad of a bite 3/8" by 3/8" ? or bigger 1 way if so you may have to do it in a couple pass's try the bit on some other wood run it the same and see what happen's i bet it works ok oak has lot's of grain running in it del schisler


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

HI BW!
I guess I still try not to take more than 1/4" cuts at a pass - oftentimes less, particularly with red oak - like Del says, red oak grain has its own set of problems and I do use a lot of it cause it's readily available and I like the grain patterns in it - try shallow passes and sneak up on the final pass at like 1/16" and see if that helps. Not sure exactly what you're making, but if cutting end grain in the process, cut it first and then the edge grain. Probably haven't told you anything you don't already know!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Birchwood, your problem is likely a combination of using the cheap bit and the red oak. The first thing called for is an inspection of the bit. I bought a set of cheap bits; a 40 piece set for very little money when I started out. The very first bit I tried made a terrible cut. I looked at the bit and discovered that the paint was rubbed off behind the cutting edge... the bit was not properly clearanced. An easy way to test your bit is to try making your cut on a piece of pine. Gilbear is right. Do not try and cut more than a 1/4" in a pass. On some difficult hardwoods I actually limit my cuts to 1/8" in a pass. You can easily make another pass to remove more wood. Putting it back just doesn't happen. Other things tha can cause a lot of tearout or burning are the speed you push your router, stopping in the middle of a cut, bit's that have a build up of resin from cutting, dull bits cause many problems. My advice when using a new bit is to practice on a piece of scrap pine first. This will give you a chance to evaluate the bit before expensive wood is put at risk.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Birchwood

Or you can do it Bob's way (the router boys) that works best when working with Oak.
Put the Rabbet bit back in the box and chuck up a 3/8" or 1/2" carb. bit and use the brass setup bars to set the cut along with a fence.
Make the 1st.pass to get a nice clean cut about 3/32" and then a 2nd pass to get the 3/8" rabbet.
Bob will do this on many boxes lids and other items.

Bj


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## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

Ya know what guys?....When Bob3 said just use the Bob way I laughed out loud, because that is the way I USUALLY cut a rabbet; use a solid carbide straight bit set with the bar 3/8 up and 3/8 in and BAM....a nice rabbet in usually one pass. It was when I got FANCY with the rabbet bit I ran into trouble. Incidenally, I have a rabetting set I got someplace but it is so damned complicated I put it in a drawer and never took it back out. It has a million different bearings etc. BUT, there is an allen head screw in the arbor that I CANNOT get loose-thus rendering useless the entire set. Nifty huh??
Thanks for the help. You are ALL right of course.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Birchwood, get a small can of penetrating oil, (not WD40), soak the bit in it for a day or two. That alien bolt will loosen up for ya. Here on the farm, we use diesel fuel for such appilcations, however, takes alot to get the smell off your hands.


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## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

Man I LOVE the smell of diesel oil. Use a tad to get the wood stove going in my little shed on cool mornings. Love the smell of it when I fire up my Powerstroke Ford and like a slight whiff of it when I warm up the old M-Benz station wagon. In fact the only smell I like better than diesel is the smell of bacon frying. Or maybe the smoky bouqet of a freshly opened bottle of Markers Mark. I cover the diesel smell on my hands with a splash on each paw. I'll try some diesel on that gypo rabbeting set. Thanks.


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

Birchwood - do you also listen to Wagner and fly helicopters? 
(Couldn't agree more on the Makers Mark!)


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Anybody who drinks bourbon is ok in my book. Oh and Gilbear? It hasn't come up in a while but I used to repair weapons and the systems that control them on attack helicopters; a rotorhead for life. Fly ARMY!


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

Ahhh, the smell of napalm in the morning!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Birchwood
That stuff is NASTY,boy do I have a truck for you ,my father in law has a old 59 Chev.1/2 ton that he used for a fuel truck for his hvy. equipment that has 4 diesel fuel tanks with elec.pumps that leak that junk all over the back and the insdie of the pickup.
In about 4" of sand and junk ,beer cans and alike. NASTY,NASTY he ask me if I wanted it and I said HELL no you can't get that smell out, he got the truck new and he has over 375,000 miles on it and it comes with a case or two of oil to keep the eng. running at peak. hahahahahaha I was with him one day and he siad I should check the oil and he said hey bud hand me 6 qts. I need to add some hahahahahaha.
That's just the way the old did it.

To get back to the Rabbet bit ,it will work great but you need to think about it just a bit.
Oak is a long grain wood and when you use a rabbet bit you need a Chip breaker
in the fence, you will see Bob and Rick do this all the time when they use one.
They back the bit into the fence and cut a pocket for the bit that puts a chip breaker in the fence, so when the bit that's running at 20,000 rpm. has a way to hold the stock and help the rip out when the bit comes out of the cut.
Think of it this way you have a saw blade that's 3/8" wide and when it comes out of the cut it will lift and rip the cut on the down side, it can be sharp but it will do the same thing.
Just a note about the allen screw that will not come out, they make may items to help get it free, I use the cap off one of them and fill the cap with the fuild and set the bit in it for a just bit and then remove the screw with allen wrech or the vise grips if all eles fails then just replace the screw with a good one.
BUT I will not use that nasty stuff "diesel fuel" or 90 gear lub that's also nasty and hard to get the smell out of the shop.
One thing being a gear head but to smell like one, well. 

Have a good one
Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Pickup
I should note that it comes with a full set craftsman tools that are in the sand, in the back of the truck and they look like new, no tool box just put your hands in the sand and pull out what you need ,hahahahahaha, no rust just a bit sand on them.
His hand tools like hand saw,shovels,rakes,same thing the nasty suff keeps them clean and looking like new, I now use this trick for my garden tools but I use old motor oil and sand not the nasty stuff in a 20gal. bucket.

Bj


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## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

Fixed wing. Love Wagner.HA!


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

On the diesel smell note, I believe "dawn" dishwashing soap really helps cut down the smell on your hands. Personally, the smell doesn't bother me at all. I'm like you Birch, I love the smell of it. 

Bob, only 375,000 miles??? Man, that thing isn't even "broke-in" yet.


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## MichaelHaney (Feb 26, 2006)

Did someone mention in another thread that some of the setscrews use reverse threads? Just a thought about Birchwoods set screw dilema. By the way, Hoppes #9 in a crisp fall evening by a fireplace the night before a hunt has to be the best smell short of heaven.

With respects 

Michael


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## fibertech (May 7, 2005)

A couple drops of Glenmorangie behind each ear (like Bob Eucker did in Major League) and then sip the rest. All foul smells seem to disappear. -Derek


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

Ahhh, now we're talking Scotch - if you can find it (might only be available in Scotland) try some Aberfeldy 12 yr (or older) it's a Single Malt (mid highlands)! Man, I'm such a lush!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Now I see why the NASTY smell doesn't get to you all.. 

"Glenmorangie behind each ear"
" it's a Single Malt (mid highlands)! Man, I'm such a lush!"
"Hoppes #9 in a crisp fall evening"
"Anybody who drinks bourbon is ok in my book"

Bj  hahahahahaha I guess it's time for a Small Glass of some Royal C.#7 (small glass with a rock or two) now I did it...now you're off to do the same thing I know.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Bourbon and Tequila for me.
After awhile, all smells disappear


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

*Smell Removers!*

I hope you guys are not drinking these and then going to the shop????  

Dave
the "Doctor"


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

I can only speak for myself, but the Scotch only comes AFTER, while basking in the glow of another botched miter joint or through mortise!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You can always tell who has a drink or two b/4 working in the shop, they have not got all there body parts that they started out with.

Things will happen but why push it, PLEASE PLAY IT SAFE IN THE SHOP .
Want to talk with you and not about you.

Bj


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Ifin I'm gonna be drinkin, I won't be in shop.


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## fibertech (May 7, 2005)

Gilbear said it correct. Drinking and my shop do not mix. Drinking is to be done with a golf club in 1 hand and a glass in the other. Whisky without the "E". -Derek


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