# Homemade Router Table



## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

The link below shows an amazing consolidation of ideas for a router table IMO (2nd table down)

Am I correct to assume that: to get that squaring effect of the sliding table in a homemade mdf version, I'd have to dado a track for a mitre gauge of sorts? Or would a sled work? Would a sled reduce the cutting length of the bit? I've seen most of the threads for tracks vs no tracks. I haven't started making the table yet, but can foresee needing to route end grain as the video demonstrates. 

I have another idea, but won't mention it yet for kiss reasons.

Heavyweight and Precision Router Table


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

The #1217 table combines the concept of the sliding table saw with the router table. Nifty idea, although I question the use of aluminum, since aluminum marks wood badly, unless waxed, anodized, or powder-coated.

The benefit of the sliding table, to me, is that the stock is kept at table level, so there is no loss of potential bit depth-of-cut as there is with a sled. The challenge with the sliding table section is to eliminate the potential for lateral "play" between the sliding section and the bit. 

"Square" is a relative concept on a router table, though. The stock only needs to be square to the direction of travel of the sliding segment of the table in order to ensure that the cut is square to the edges of the stock. The regular fence has nothing to do with this, and could actually introduce other problems when combined with the sliding table segment. 

Note that a sled can be used either against the regular fence, or in a miter track. Again, combining them can create problems, since, when combined, the fence has to be perfectly parallel to the miter track. But, doing so is actually pointless, since the sled is supporting the stock, not the fence. In the #1217 table, the sliding table segment with the stock hold-down replaces the function of the sled.

The video for the hold-down mentions that it can be set to 45°, but doesn't actually show doing so. Otherwise, it appears to use a dual-track guide system, similar to the typical design of a cross-cut sled for a table saw. The combination of descriptions is a little confusing. MLCS really ought to understand how these things work, but it may be that someone in marketing needs to re-take Geometry 101.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Harry's router table,

I think he has the Triton router table but the older model, you may want to checkout his uploads..

Triton RTS300 Router Table

Triton Tools | Home

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## chizdad (Dec 7, 2010)

Something I finally figured out was one the homemade router table I first built. The thicker the top the less chance of variations on depth of cut. I had a tendency to push down on the top as I was pushing a piece pass the cutter causing the top to deflect a bit and thereby causing an unwanted variation in the cutting depth. I then changed out the top to full 1" countertop with formica. I cut out an inlaid area for the router plate and routed out a groove for the aluminum slide. It works great. All of this mounted on an old metal kitchen cabinet. Although it won't win any beauty awards It works great.


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

Thanks for the help guys. I was having a bit of a brain fart when I wrote the questions. I keep forgetting that it's ok to push the piece into the fence and bit, unlike a TS:wacko:

Whatever I end up doing will probably just be a simple mdf table top bolted to a frame, that can then be bolted to a stand, laid across saw horses, etc, etc, and put away flat when done. I saw Harry's setup and I'm liking it. I love the massive tall fence. I like BJ's T&G fence version too. Will that Harbor Freight insert plate support the 13lb Freud, or should I get aluminum?

Also, where does one find the laminate for the mdf? Is it just formica? How about the nice vinyl edging too? I'm having a heckuva time. I'd like to mimic the Rockler one, except bigger size and no/different slots.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI DJ

Most know what I think about the HF plate, it's a great one and it support any router you want to hang from it..it's 3/8" thick and when you bolt the router to it it's a rock , need to think about it just a little bit the screws from the router will do all the work and make it 1" thick you could say., it's almost impossible to get it shag or drop...flat is flat they say..and the HF is unlike many others they sale.

I'm not real big fan of the tall fence, we all need one so why use it for many router jobs, to hang other items on it..etc. etc. but Harry likes that little mouse hole in his.. , I don't think he can spin the big bits on his router table anyway,with out making a sub fence to run them..or use a chip breaker inserts.


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mtnmaniac said:


> Thanks for the help guys. I was having a bit of a brain fart when I wrote the questions. I keep forgetting that it's ok to push the piece into the fence and bit, unlike a TS:wacko:
> 
> Whatever I end up doing will probably just be a simple mdf table top bolted to a frame, that can then be bolted to a stand, laid across saw horses, etc, etc, and put away flat when done. I saw Harry's setup and I'm liking it. I love the massive tall fence. I like BJ's T&G fence version too. Will that Harbor Freight insert plate support the 13lb Freud, or should I get aluminum?
> 
> Also, where does one find the laminate for the mdf? Is it just formica? How about the nice vinyl edging too? I'm having a heckuva time. I'd like to mimic the Rockler one, except bigger size and no/different slots.


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

Ok, thanks BJ. Good to know. It's a great price. Now, let's refresh another debate: Contact cement, wood glue, or neither to laminate the 2 layers of mdf for the table? It needs to be most durable- Table's not just gonna sit in one spot since my shop has to be "put away" for vehicles. Any cons to just using 1.5 inch mdf? Less stable?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi DJ

I would suggest Contact cement on the MDF.
" laminate " = I would suggest No,many say on both sides I say why,if you use it outside in the rain I would say yes, a good wax job will do the job, with some Johnson pate floor wax...MDF is tuff stuff  if you take a hard look at the router table tops they sale they are covered with laminate not to protect it, but to cover up the junk wood they used to make it, to me putting on laminate is like putting on a band aid so to speak..laminate will mark up easy, with the wax job on MDF you can fix that error quick with one new coat unlike laminate..if you want something that will last, put some 1/4" thick plastic on it for a cover..for a quick test go into the kitchen and drag a sharp tool/jig over the counter you will say WOW , now how do I get that out...without the Boss seeing it 1st. , tell me how many tools you have in your shop with laminate on it....or to say how many table saw do you see with laminate on it, they know it will no stand up very long.I have one work table in the shop with laminate on it and it's mess with all the marks from other tools on it all the time..


But this just my 2 cents.. 

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mtnmaniac said:


> Ok, thanks BJ. Good to know. It's a great price. Now, let's refresh another debate: Contact cement, wood glue, or neither to laminate the 2 layers of mdf for the table? It needs to be most durable- Table's not just gonna sit in one spot since my shop has to be "put away" for vehicles. Any cons to just using 1.5 inch mdf? Less stable?


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

I see your points. Hmmmm, I wonder if they sell sheets of Lexan. That would be cool. 

Anyways, maybe I'll just cut a rabbet on the 2x4 frame to inlay the mdf to keep edges from chipping off during all the moving.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi DJ

Yes , you can find it at the right price at the big sign shops, they use it all the time for signs, check out the glues they use at the same place/time..
Plus check out the trash can , so real deals, they use the old frames all the time and just replace the sign with some new background lexan, white the norm,with a good jig saw and a metal cutting blade you can get a piece just the right size for the top..put your battery power jig saw in your car/truck and just cut out what you need if you don't mine getting in the trash can  but ask 1st.you never know they may say no but say,come on in and I will just give you some.. we have tons on cut off's, most people are nice once you tell them what you are doing with it and some are real PITA people..
i.e. I have some glass windows out by the curb 4' x 7' with a sign on it "Free ,I have 8 just ask if you want more than just one" a woman last night stop by and ask if see could have one and I said yes, I said what are you going to do with it, and see told me and I said, you don't want to use it for that type of job BUT I have some more in the garage, that will work for you I'm sure, she took a 1/4" x 3' x 6' pane (one of the 6) for a small table top  and still have tons of glass in the garage ( 1/4" x6' x8' and down from that size) so to say it helps if you ask 1st. 



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mtnmaniac said:


> I see your points. Hmmmm, I wonder if they sell sheets of Lexan. That would be cool.
> 
> Anyways, maybe I'll just cut a rabbet on the 2x4 frame to inlay the mdf to keep edges from chipping off during all the moving.


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

I don't get much TV, and barely have time to watch anyway. But last night I watched a bunch of online episodes of The Router Workshop. I like their table and their fence technique, but will make my own personal touches to it. I am wondering what that plastic bar they used for a fence was and where they get it though?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

mtnmaniac said:


> I see your points. Hmmmm, I wonder if they sell sheets of Lexan. That would be cool.
> 
> Anyways, maybe I'll just cut a rabbet on the 2x4 frame to inlay the mdf to keep edges from chipping off during all the moving.


Hi DJ - I get Lexan tails off eBay. Price is generally pretty decent but shipping will kill it. Pay attention to the vendor location. Can get some deals if you can pick it up.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

UHMW Plastic Sheets and Strips

I keep a 3/4" x 4"x 4' on hand all the time, I use it for many things(jigs,ski jig )the norm, but you can buy one ,cut off a bit off the end and rip in on the table saw and you have two just like the OP ones..  at about 1/2 the price..or less 

24" below ▼
Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue

Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue

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mtnmaniac said:


> I don't get much TV, and barely have time to watch anyway. But last night I watched a bunch of online episodes of The Router Workshop. I like their table and their fence technique, but will make my own personal touches to it. I am wondering what that plastic bar they used for a fence was and where they get it though?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Dang, BJ.. That's one Mighty nice pair of skiis!!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

Thanks, like they say it's easy to roll something as to drag/push it all over the place, plus it just moves chips out of the way or it just rides on the sides of the box or cam board plus ,it's a neat cir.jig also , one jig for many jobs.. 

But I still likes Dave's the best  ▼ LOL
You talk about using the skis to plane some stock down,I know Dave did it as a joke but it looks like it could do a great job.  plus it's looks like fun at the same time..by the way how is the SNOW up North ?

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/shop-safety/31167d1261550399-table-safety-my-skis.jpg
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BigJimAK said:


> Dang, BJ.. That's one Mighty nice pair of skiis!!!


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

Oops, I missed half the posts on this. Good info. Next question:
On a homemade mdf table, do I need something beneath the leveling screws to prevent them from chipping the inlay away? I thought of using some small diameter magnets that could be insert flush with bottom of rabbet at each corner. But I'd end up with 40-50 from amazon, so I want to make sure.


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