# CC Sled Stop Block Slide



## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

If anyone intends to follow any of this, (CC sled and slide attachment) for their own version I suggest waiting for all parts to arrive to begin. 
“DO NOT EXPECT THE FENCE TO RETURN TO A PERFECT ALIGNMENT” just because you have previously drilled holes. 
Once the sled and fence are set and read “Good”, it’s a pain in the butt to remove the fence for milling and then put it back. I ended up repeating the initial “Fence to Base” installation process after nearly swallowing my tongue due to such a horrible 1st cut.

STOP SLIDE

1/2” MDO cut to 2 5/8” x 1/2” x 35 3/4”. The stop block will be 7” long and attached/screwed to the end of the slide, so about 2 1/2” of the UHMW will be embedded in the stop block for rigidity.

The layout for the slide has 2 stabilizer bars and 1 slot for 2 T bolts. The slide has a 2 3/4” stop at the fence handle end and 4 1/16” at the stop block end.

Since the slide is 2 5/8” wide 3/8” worked out well for spacing everything. I set the RT up with the 3/8 bit offset the fence 3/8” with a brass bar and 1/8” high for dado depth. Marked the fence for stop and start for both sides and routed the dados.
I reset the fence for the center slot ran a test cut then routed it, rolled it over and ran it through again to ensure center. I repeated this at 3/16” height adjustments till the bit popped out the top of the slide.

Mark the backside of the slide along the center of the dados for the screw counter bores. Hit the marks with an awl for the 1/2” Forstner bit point. I’m using #8x3/4” SST pan head woodscrews and #10 SST washers. Counter bore 3/16” deep, a smidge more than the height of the pan head and washer height.

UHMW STABILIZERS

Rip 2 pieces at (3/8”) x3/4”x29”. Make one longer and cut for a test piece. 
I test fit for snug not a hard fit. I ran it through the TS a couple times whittling away at it till I was able to push the plastic in with moderate effort. 

With the UHMW seated in the dados chuck up a 1/8” Brad point bit in the drill press, set depth stop at 1/8” from popping out the top of the UMHW. Use the centering hole left by the 1/2” Forstner bit and drill the 1/8” pilot holes through the slide and into the UHMW.
Remove the UHMW from the dados, chuck up an 11/64 Brad point bit in the press and expand the 1/8” holes in the slide to complete the screw holes and counter bores.
Once complete install the UHMW with the screws and washers, I hand screw the #8s to avoid stressing the UHMW


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

FENCE

Once removed from the sled I laid out the rear of the fence to maintain perspective.
Put a 3/4” straight bit into the RT offset the fence at 7/16”; (shoulder for slide cover) tested and routed a 1” deep dado. Once I had the full 1” depth I lowered the bit, moved the fence over 3/8” and repeated the above until material was cleared from the fence.

Chucked a 3/8” straight bit into the RT and offset the fence by 13/16”, tested and routed a 5/8” deep dado. Once I had the full depth I tested dado with the extra piece of UHMW, offset the fence a smidge and ran another pass for a smooth slide the entire length of the dado. I reset the fence, tested and repeated the above method for the 2nd dado.

I was left with about a 15 minutes of sanding the dados sides with a block and 150 grit sandpaper, it’s still snug but I figure it will acclimate with use.

The slide cover is 1/2”x3 1/2”x29 3/4”. I chucked a 1/2” straight into the PC, offset a bar clamp on the fence and routed out a 1/2”x1/2” dado between the slide and fence handle position creating the shoulder for the cover. I probably should have used the plunge to remove the entire 7/16” ledge but I didn’t I went back to the RT again reset the fence plunged the bit in from the side and removed all but the last 2” which I then removed at the TS. I wanted the shoulder to stand a 1/32” above the slide, it didn’t happen. I removed a smidge too much so that the slide sits above the shoulder. I made up the difference on the cover.

I cut, ripped and planed the cover down to 1/2”x3 1/2”x29 3/4”. I then set a 3/4” straight bit in the RT and set bit height for 3/64”, offset the RT fence by 7/16”, (shoulder) and cleared out the material to compensate for the previous error. Marked the cover for screw holes and bored them out on the drill press.

EXTENSION STOP BLOCK

I took 2 sections of 5/4 sugar pine and 1 of 3/4” C&B lam’d the C&B to one of the 5/4 pieces and routed both as seen in the pic. I bored through the slide from the back of the block and into the front section of the block and used 2 1/2” SST wood screws. If ever I have to repeatedly remove the block from the slide I’ll end up boring a through hole and using nuts and bolts.

FLIP STOP

I decided not to use the store bought flip stop, too many issues. The stop didn’t fit the T track, it came with a regular bolt instead of a T bolt and I would have had to mill a rabbit at the top front of the fence so that the stop touched the base. Maybe I’ll think of something to do with it later.
I made the wooden one out of Oak and bored out both sides of the sliding block and the stop so that they can be switched to either side.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

The third Pict in on the permalink 2 could be from my shop. Drill press and R.A saw look like mine!


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## MarkJonesRanger (Aug 14, 2020)

For 50 years I have been just using a clamp and a piece of scrap to make a stop block. Well I have been adding aux fences and cross cut sleds to my tools and I had a need for a stop block that would just slip on a 2x4 or 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood or one piece of 3/4 plywood and clamp down and stay put like a clamp will. Non marring as well. Pretty much any piece of wood can be used as a fence and it works better than Ttrac plus the only price is a carriage bolt and 3 hex head nuts and board 6" by 19" and a CNC machine. (I made these using a Table saw and bandsaw at first) Now I use a CNC machine to cut them out in 12 minutes. Here is video and link to the CRV vcarve pro files. The zip file has both 3/4" and 1.5" wide stop blocks and the file to make 5 tri knobs and pocket holes for hex head 7/16 nuts. 

Fun stuff. Nice stop blocks that won't budge but can be removed in seconds.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

After reading this, I'm coming back to using a block and clamp on my sled.

Depending on your fence height, the Ttrack could simply be mounted on top of the fence and then you can use a flip down stop. This is the Kreg version, but Rockler and Woodcraft also have them. Could be the easiest fix. Just make sure if you already have a Ttrack, that the stop will fit it. Slight differences have been noted, so check where you got the track for flip stop first.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

For my RAS I made a plywood stop with a cam type locking handle. Works great. Sorry, don't have a picture of it and I'm still in my PJs.


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## MarkJonesRanger (Aug 14, 2020)

Ok. It's been 3 days and I know 3 days in jammies would be a long time for most woodworkers. So go out in the shop and take a picture of this plywood cam style stop block and post us some stuff on that stop block. I like ideas and how folk use these jigs and stop blocks.


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