# A beginners guide to making router skis



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The skis that I'm about to make are the same as the ones first shown on this forum over three years ago. Since that time, many members have made their own version, some quite complex, however, these skis are very versatile and can perform many operations, some of which would be difficult or even impossible by other means. My preference for the rods has always been smooth bright mild steel, reduced in diameter at the ends and threaded, leaving a shoulder for the fender washer. Those members without access to a lathe wouldn't be charged very much to have the ends threaded. The actual shape of the end cheeks is unimportant, however, the router should be able to be slid close to the ends without the handles restricting the travel. For all operations except slotting, the assembly should be operated by the end cheeks, this gives incredible control and does not put pressure on the router which, especially with thin rods, will not give an even depth of cut.

Continued in next post


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Continued from previous post

If you're thinking of buying a router for ski use, choose one that takes 1/2" or 12mm rods, also one that has a large opening that enables you to SEE what the cutter is doing in comfort!

Finally, I've added a zip file for those who would like to download it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

What can I say,,,I guess WOW and WOW one more time...now if someone wants to make one they have the zip file to do so.. 


Harry,,,, I would suggest one thing, add your text to your zip file.
From your post.. 
and a link to your post on the forum so they can find it easy.

===========


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

As usual, a great tutorial Harry....should help a lot of people starting off. Regards....AL


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

HEY! Always great to see you in action Harry, in fact I believe they will be coming out with a "Harrysin" action figure just before Christmas!!


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi Harry

If I'm not mistaken, that's a 3612C - in which case mine is about to arrive in a few days! It'll be my first router and it's capability will well exceed my abilities, at least initially.

The skis look great however being a complete router newbie, I'm trying to figure out how they'd be used. I've no doubt that they have hundreds of applications - but my experience prevents me figuring out what they are at present. Would you mind giving me a few ideas - perhaps you even have some pics of them in action?

I'm really looking forward to making some jigs, and other devices that will help me get the most from my router. 

Matthew


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi Harry

Am not able to edit my posts (yet?) hence this extra post:

Having looked through all the pictures, I can see one of the skis in action. Any more descriptions/pics would be appreciated.

Have also discovered that your router is a 3612C - seems like I made a good choice there!

Matthew


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> The skis that I'm about to make are the same as the ones first shown on this forum over three years ago. Since that time, many members have made their own version, some quite complex, however, these skis are very versatile and can perform many operations, some of which would be difficult or even impossible by other means. My preference for the rods has always been smooth bright mild steel, reduced in diameter at the ends and threaded, leaving a shoulder for the fender washer. Those members without access to a lathe wouldn't be charged very much to have the ends threaded. The actual shape of the end cheeks is unimportant, however, the router should be able to be slid close to the ends without the handles restricting the travel. For all operations except slotting, the assembly should be operated by the end cheeks, this gives incredible control and does not put pressure on the router which, especially with thin rods, will not give an even depth of cut.
> 
> Continued in next post


Very timely post, Harrry

Saves me having to dig back through the archives.

:thank_you2:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

PS what sized bit to route the grooves?


Can't wait......LOL


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> What can I say,,,I guess WOW and WOW one more time...now if someone wants to make one they have the zip file to do so..
> 
> ...


Bob, like me, if you can't make a positive comment you won't give a negative one, so receiving such high praise from you gives me a "high" that would normally take half a bottle of Scotland's finest to achieve, thank you, also for the suggestion of adding the text, I'll attempt do do that and if I can't figure it out I'll be back to you for advice.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Jack Wilson said:


> HEY! Always great to see you in action Harry, in fact I believe they will be coming out with a "Harrysin" action figure just before Christmas!!


Awe shucks Jack, you're making me blush!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob, take another look at the zip file, it's the best that I can figure out without further help.


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Thank you Harry.
I'm going to build a set of these, I don't need them and I don't really understand how to use them yet but I'm going to build a set.

I'm lucky that underneath where I sit is our machine shop (CNC millers and Lathes, Laser and Plasma Cutters, water jet cutters, etc.) and the lads will make anything for a small bottle of Schnapps (I haven't got them on to Whisky yet).


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Saves me having to dig back through the archives."

Why would you want to do this James, unlike one who shall remain nameless, I only have need for ONE set of skis!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Titus A Duxass said:


> Thank you Harry.
> I'm going to build a set of these, I don't need them and I don't really understand how to use them yet but I'm going to build a set.
> 
> I'm lucky that underneath where I sit is our machine shop (CNC millers and Lathes, Laser and Plasma Cutters, water jet cutters, etc.) and the lads will make anything for a small bottle of Schnapps (I haven't got them on to Whisky yet).


How fortunate you are having such facilities available. Once you have a set of skis and have the time to look through past threads, you WILL find lots of uses for them. Many times I've said that skis are not the be all end all of woodworking tools, but they are a very valuable asset for a number of procedures. I shall follow your future posts/threads with even keener interest from now on!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

matt1710 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Am not able to edit my posts (yet?) hence this extra post:
> 
> ...


Matthew, welcome to the forum and thank you for completing your profile, it makes life so much more pleasant. The router that I have permanently on skis is a Makita 3600BR but the hand-held one is indeed a 3612C which I personally believe to be just about the finest router on the market. It's only short-coming is that it only has the usual three position depth turret, hence the six way one that I have made for mine.
I'm rather busy today, but this evening I'll post shots of projects where the skis were used.


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## Jclaude (Oct 19, 2007)

Many thanks Harry!
As usual it's a real delight to read your post! (specially the ones where your promote metric against imperial....)

Jean Claude


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

harrysin said:


> Matthew, welcome to the forum and thank you for completing your profile, it makes life so much more pleasant. The router that I have permanently on skis is a Makita 3600BR but the hand-held one is indeed a 3612C which I personally believe to be just about the finest router on the market. It's only short-coming is that it only has the usual three position depth turret, hence the six way one that I have made for mine.
> I'm rather busy today, but this evening I'll post shots of projects where the skis were used.


Hi Harry

Thanks for the speedy response. I noticed the six way depth turret - maybe that's something I'll look to make in due course. I'm also very impressed with the light on the router - I assume that's a battery powered unit that you've attached - or are you also an electrical wizard and hooked it up to the router's power supply? I could well need something like that as my shed could be a tad dark - it won't have permanent power although I might just organize some fixed lighting that can be switched on when I run the power lead across the lawn to the shed. After all, I'm going to need power for the router...:moil::moil:

I look forward to the pics.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Jclaude said:


> Many thanks Harry!
> As usual it's a real delight to read your post! (specially the ones where your promote metric against imperial....)
> 
> Jean Claude


Thanks for your kind comments, as for metric, whenever the forum needs a stir, I raise the subject! I must comment regarding how frugal you have been in completing your profile, how about a few more details, I would hate to answer future questions from you as if you were a beginner when you may have more years experience than me! It also helps to know what tools you have available, this information is what guides me as to the type of project to present for the forum.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

harrysin said:


> Matthew, welcome to the forum and thank you for completing your profile, it makes life so much more pleasant. The router that I have permanently on skis is a Makita 3600BR but the hand-held one is indeed a 3612C which I personally believe to be just about the finest router on the market. It's only short-coming is that it only has the usual three position depth turret, hence the six way one that I have made for mine.
> I'm rather busy today, but this evening I'll post shots of projects where the skis were used.


Matthew, here is a link to some shots that I posted recently.

Router Forums - View Single Post - My circle jig


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Hi Al, I can see you viewing this thread, any questions?


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Thanks for the pics Harry - I'm now starting to get a feel for the versatility of the skis. I like the look of the table in 'August-box5.jpg' - there are clearly a large number of locaters for the circular 'clamps' - a very good idea. I might have to try and create something similar - it looks like the table and skis would work very well together.

One idea I had (tell me if it's not smart) was to add a narrow base (ie a piece of wood attached perpendicular to the ski) to each ski - thereby enabling clamps to anchor the entire ski assembly to a table. Then I had another idea - what if the base of the ski had a dovetail shape to it, which would then allow the ski to run in a matching dovetail grove in the table top? If the fit was tight, one could slide the two skis (both run in dovetail grooves) across the workpiece, shuffle the skis, run across workpiece...etc etc.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

matt1710 said:


> Thanks for the pics Harry - I'm now starting to get a feel for the versatility of the skis. I like the look of the table in 'August-box5.jpg' - there are clearly a large number of locaters for the circular 'clamps' - a very good idea. I might have to try and create something similar - it looks like the table and skis would work very well together.
> 
> One idea I had (tell me if it's not smart) was to add a narrow base (ie a piece of wood attached perpendicular to the ski) to each ski - thereby enabling clamps to anchor the entire ski assembly to a table. Then I had another idea - what if the base of the ski had a dovetail shape to it, which would then allow the ski to run in a matching dovetail grove in the table top? If the fit was tight, one could slide the two skis (both run in dovetail grooves) across the workpiece, shuffle the skis, run across workpiece...etc etc.


Whilst some members have made their skis and cam boxes to work as a pair, this means that the skis can only move in straight lines whereas I believe in the skis being capable of moving in all directions and when slots or grooves are needed, rails can be quickly screwed to the bench, as demonstrated when I made the skis. Most of my projects these days are quite small, for which I use a jig holder 400 x 300mm with 50mm sides, these shots should assist in understanding the concept. Regarding the cam jig, this is very useful and I've promoted the idea here for a long time however, pinning pieces of scrap around the work-piece is a very simple and useful method.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

matt1710 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Thanks for the speedy response. I noticed the six way depth turret - maybe that's something I'll look to make in due course. I'm also very impressed with the light on the router - I assume that's a battery powered unit that you've attached - or are you also an electrical wizard and hooked it up to the router's power supply? I could well need something like that as my shed could be a tad dark - it won't have permanent power although I might just organize some fixed lighting that can be switched on when I run the power lead across the lawn to the shed. After all, I'm going to need power for the router...:moil::moil:
> 
> I look forward to the pics.


Here is a zip file showing the making of the lighted base. I did consider powering the LED's from the router but there was insufficient field to be of use and tapping into the field coils was rather dicey. I've used the router a great deal since fitting the base and it's still using the original battery.


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Thanks Harry, your comment in #8 says it all really.
I can see me cutting the pocket in my new vice cheeks using such a set-up.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

That should do the job 

Here's a small tip, just select and copy your text in your post and paste it in NotePad and then just save the file and then have WinZip add the text file (????.txt) to your zip file no need to retype your text file and at the same time just copy and paste the URL address to the notepad txt file.
Some don't have Word but all have Notepad...  or to say a text reader.


"The skis that I'm about to make are the same as the ones first shown on this forum over three years ago. 

Since that time, many members have made their own version, some quite complex, however, these skis are very versatile and can perform many operations, some of which would be difficult or even impossible by other means. 

My preference for the rods has always been smooth bright mild steel, reduced in diameter at the ends and threaded, leaving a shoulder for the fender washer. Those members without access to a lathe wouldn't be charged very much to have the ends threaded. 

The actual shape of the end cheeks is unimportant, however, the router should be able to be slid close to the ends without the handles restricting the travel. 

For all operations except slotting, the assembly should be operated by the end cheeks, this gives incredible control and does not put pressure on the router which, especially with thin rods, will not give an even depth of cut.


If you're thinking of buying a router for ski use, choose one that takes 1/2" or 12mm rods, also one that has a large opening that enables you to SEE what the cutter is doing in comfort!

Finally, I've added a zip file for those who would like to download it.

===================


harrysin said:


> Bob, take another look at the zip file, it's the best that I can figure out without further help.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Terrific tutorial as usual Harry! You have more fans on this forum then Elvis had!


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Elvis was a member of our forum???????????????????????LOL!


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

...'corse he was a member of the forum Dave....thats how he got the words and lyrics for Wooden Heart!........AL


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

WAS?....He still is! LOL


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Fantastic posts thanks Harry! I'm going to be very creating all of these items! That lighted router base is genius.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> That should do the job
> 
> ...


Thanks a million Bob, notepad, that's what I couldn't think of when I was experimenting. I'll try again and then re-do the zip file and try to remember to add the text to future, and possibly past zip files.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

matt1710 said:


> Fantastic posts thanks Harry! I'm going to be very creating all of these items! That lighted router base is genius.


You're just too kind Matthew, by the way, the brightness pot isn't of course essential but I thought it was a nice touch. In practice, the light is bright enough in the dimmest position.

To everyone who has been so kind in their remarks I give a sincere THANK YOU and hope that you aren't just being kind to an old man!


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Dont worry Harry....if it was crap, we'd all tell ya....you wouldnt be disappointed lol..................AL


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Al Robins said:


> Dont worry Harry....if it was crap, we'd all tell ya....you wouldnt be disappointed lol..................AL


Thanks Al., I will keep a special eye on my PM's!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Try the zip file now Bob, it's in notepad. Thanks for the guidance as always.


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## Jclaude (Oct 19, 2007)

Hi Harry,
I updated my profile, sorry, I probably forgot when I joined.

Jean Claude


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Jclaude said:


> Hi Harry,
> I updated my profile, sorry, I probably forgot when I joined.
> 
> Jean Claude


Well my friend, THAT is a profile that I'm sure will be viewed by lots of members. You didn't mention if one of the two lathes is for metal. We were, in the not too distant past privileged to have an Israeli member who was also an aircraft engineer who had worked for some years in Japan and I think in Poland at the time of his untimely death. Niki produced some amazing jigs and projects, all with the emphasis on accuracy. I'll be surprised if Bj doesn't come up with a link to Niki's projects, Bj, amongst many other things is our unpaid archivist!


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## jmoore65 (Aug 14, 2008)

Is it possible to use skis on a router that doesn't have appropriate mounts for the rods? (e.g. edge guide tubes only on one side of router)?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi jmoore65

Yes you can do it this way, some router just don't have the holes for the rods.

=========



jmoore65 said:


> Is it possible to use skis on a router that doesn't have appropriate mounts for the rods? (e.g. edge guide tubes only on one side of router)?


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## albion (Sep 25, 2010)

Gee Harry.
These are a really fantastic set of pic's mate.
A big help to me as I have a piece of kitchen bench I'd like to route out. About 6mm depth X 500mm X 500mm to add a dark glass panel . This will match the stove top.(or wreck the bench)
regards Albion.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi Harry

Am about to start construction on my own router skis, based almost entirely on your post. As you know, I've got a 3612C too - so it should work perfectly. The only change I was going to make was to make the skis out of thicker mdf - perhaps 25mm - unless you advise against it? I figured that the extra thickness would aid stability.

As I was working through the pics, comments and descriptions - converting everything to millimetres..it struck me as strange that you have all the dimensions in inches!! Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't you a big fan of metric, and enemy of imperial?

Three questions, if you don't mind answering:
1. How much thread (length) should be tapped onto the end? Looks like about 40mm?
2. How close do the slots get to the top/bottom? Looks like about 15mm? 
3. The centre-to-centre separation of the slots is 4.5" - or 114.3mm. Seems a strange figure - is it right?

Matthew


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matthew


Just a butt in post . I have been playing with the skis for about two years or so, and been trying to find a way so every one can make a set without dropping a ton of money..or running to the machine shop to turn the ends down for the nuts/wing nuts they are not needed if you use lock collars, in that way you are not locked into one size...and they can be used for many router jobs..

You don't need high end steel, have you every tried to bend 1/2" rod it hard than if you use two of them it real hard, and you just hanging a 15 lb.router from them,if you think of it .it's like a bridge all the support is on the ends of the bridge than if you add some steel (Alum) in the center contract point, it get real hard to bend 1/2" rods or 3/8" rods..

here's some snapshots of the easy way and the low cost way of doing the job.

Router Forums - View Single Post - My circle jig
Router Forums - View Single Post - My circle jig

=========




matt1710 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Am about to start construction on my own router skis, based almost entirely on your post. As you know, I've got a 3612C too - so it should work perfectly. The only change I was going to make was to make the skis out of thicker mdf - perhaps 25mm - unless you advise against it? I figured that the extra thickness would aid stability.
> 
> ...


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

*More info please...*

Hi Bob

As you know, I'm impressed with the completely unthreaded ski setup - so much so that I intend making one. It absolves me of involving a machinist which is a good thing - plus I like the ability to adjust the stance.

I've lost track of (and can't locate) the post where you illustrate the spring loading clamp (although I've got the photos saved). A question - what are the star shaped washers for, and where do they fit into the setup? Also, before I actually make the skis as per your method, how have they performed? There must be some pros...and cons, compared to non-adjustable stance skis?

Matthew



bobj3 said:


> Hi Matthew
> 
> 
> Just a butt in post . I have been playing with the skis for about two years or so, and been trying to find a way so every one can make a set without dropping a ton of money..or running to the machine shop to turn the ends down for the nuts/wing nuts they are not needed if you use lock collars, in that way you are not locked into one size...and they can be used for many router jobs..
> ...


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Great as always, Harry!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

Thanks, see the 2nd link below or above it will show how to adjust them, The star washes is needed to lock the rods in to the runners of the ski jig, they will dig in a little bit into the wood but that not a big deal..

Don't tell Harry  ,but the solid rods work better than the all thread rod..but I do like the 4140 steel and the B7 Acme threaded rod a lot,it's almost the same as the solid rod because it's has most flat threads just like the vise threads and many clamps..and I can adjust it so easy..and quick,from 6" wide to 34" if needed unlike the rods with threads on the ends only...I was going to use quick Acme nuts but they a bit high in price..


========



matt1710 said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> As you know, I'm impressed with the completely unthreaded ski setup - so much so that I intend making one. It absolves me of involving a machinist which is a good thing - plus I like the ability to adjust the stance.
> 
> ...


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## prgl7 (Jun 26, 2011)

Awesome project. As a newbie from California, What is a linisher? Thank you for sharing. Also where do you find a lighted base for your router?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

prgl7 said:


> Awesome project. As a newbie from California, What is a linisher? Thank you for sharing. Also where do you find a lighted base for your router?


A Linisher is a disk/belt sander. Here is a zip file to the thread that I posted showing the making of the illuminated base.


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## Dimitri M (Oct 4, 2011)

Harry you never cease to amaze everyone - I bet in your town (at least) you are known as the gadget man of the century?? I could only think of you as a teacher in some technical school, whether university level or basic is of no importance, as everyone knows skill requires no degrees !!!

Now, if you notice my thread in router bits about 'dishing' bits, I wonder if you ever thought of skis on a rocking base ? already made one? CFC BMW etc companies copied it? jokes aside (if you mind me being slightly sarcastic I will not do it again !!! ) if you can please help me I will be greatful.

D


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Where I grew up I was known as the local handyman from age about 12/13! That's what started me smoking, I always had money in my pocket, not that I charged for my services, people just paid me anything from two to ten shillings. Jobs could be anything from replacing a tap washer, changing the power cord on a radio to installing a new light fitting which were just coming back after the war. At weekends I often helped an electrician wire old houses that still had gas lighting!
At school I had such awful teachers that my education really started after I left school. When I attempt to pass on what knowledge I've gained over my lifetime, I try not to make the same mistakes that my teachers made.
Regarding dishing bits, I've answered your post.


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## johntdubya (Jan 5, 2012)

Thank you for the information in your video. As a beginner router user I may very well make these skis


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## Raig (Jan 27, 2012)

Thank you Harry for this guide and tanks also to Bobj3. I joined the forum just few days ago and I´m delighted and enlighted reading this thread, it´s simply awsome the way that you guys get along in the site, congratulations!

Well, now I have a doubt, excuse me in advance if a make a dumb question: Looks for me that the skies are suitable for the plunge type routers, is there a way to use a fix one with this jig? Thank you!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jorge

Harry is the pro on the ski jig I should let him come back to you on your question but yes you can use a standard (fix base) router with them ,just use the slots in the side boards to set it up, just lift the router up a little bit and then drop in down on the board,,I use a cam board that helps with that job,, see my uploads for a picture of the cam board, that I use all the time, Harry is making a new video to show how to make a box that he likes to use that will do the same job..

Below you will see 2 shots of the cam board and one shot of the wedge box that locks the stock in place but like I said b/4 Harry is the teacher and I'm the student and not a very good one at that I just can always go a long with the teacher, always trying to reinvent the wheel so to speak.  but I will say that's what a good teacher is all about for me, do as I say but use what Good gave you not just a place to hang your hat on, a good teacher will plant the seed and wait and see what comes up. 



Good luck I'm sure you will like it I know I have. 




==



Raig said:


> Thank you Harry for this guide and tanks also to Bobj3. I joined the forum just few days ago and I´m delighted and enlighted reading this thread, it´s simply awsome the way that you guys get along in the site, congratulations!
> 
> Well, now I have a doubt, excuse me in advance if a make a dumb question: Looks for me that the skies are suitable for the plunge type routers, is there a way to use a fix one with this jig? Thank you!


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## Raig (Jan 27, 2012)

*Thank you for your fast response!*

Thanks Bob, I´ll search your cam board pictures


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

harrysin said:


> A Linisher is a disk/belt sander. Here is a zip file to the thread that I posted showing the making of the illuminated base.


Harry,

Thanks for posting the zip file for the lighted base. looks like that will keep me going if I run out of things to do.

Now let me see .... how many routers do I have ......

Thanks again,
Mike


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## Larsdorders (Jan 27, 2012)

What a great "how-to", I will start mine this coming weekend.


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## Artisticmtn (Jan 30, 2012)

Hello Harry,

Thank you for this post.

I was wondering if it would be possible to curve the rods to rout out a spoon with a round nose bit? If you have another suggestion I am all ears.

Thank you,

Gary


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Artisticmtn said:


> Hello Harry,
> 
> Thank you for this post.
> 
> ...


Thanks guys for your nice comments which I've only just seen due to being AWOL for a while! Unfortunately as good as the idea of curved ski rods sounds, it wouldn't allow the rods to slide through the holes in the router, in any case, the idea of the skis is to lock the router on the rods and operate the assembly by the ski end cheeks which gives the routologist complete control of the router and ensures a constant depth of cut.
Thinking about it for a few minutes, If lots of "spoons" were to be made, then I don't see why a minimum width pair of skis couldn't be operated in a jig similar to a skateboard track, just a thought!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Raig said:


> Thank you Harry for this guide and tanks also to Bobj3. I joined the forum just few days ago and I´m delighted and enlighted reading this thread, it´s simply awsome the way that you guys get along in the site, congratulations!
> 
> Well, now I have a doubt, excuse me in advance if a make a dumb question: Looks for me that the skies are suitable for the plunge type routers, is there a way to use a fix one with this jig? Thank you!


Well Jorge, Bob and I differ on the question of fixed base routers, personally I don't see the point of them where hobbyists are concerned. A plunge router can do everything that a fixed base one can but not visa versa. By the way, Bob, myself and no doubt most members never consider a question to be dumb, the chances are that many other members are too shy or afraid to ask the very same questions. In my humble opinion, the more questions that one asks, the more thorough will be the knowledge gained by that person, this doesn't just apply to woodworking but to every trade or profession during lectures, but the thing to remember is that you should judge the standard of the lecturer and never ask a question that could embarrass him/her in front of the class, save it till the end and ask it one on one. I used this technique many, many times during the on-going electronics training during my fifty year career, many times the answer was forthcoming but many times it wasn't and the lecturer assured me that he'd have the answer when we next met.


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## Raig (Jan 27, 2012)

*Tank you*



harrysin said:


> Well Jorge, Bob and I differ on the question of fixed base routers, personally I don't see the point of them where hobbyists are concerned. A plunge router can do everything that a fixed base one can but not visa versa. By the way, Bob, myself and no doubt most members never consider a question to be dumb, the chances are that many other members are too shy or afraid to ask the very same questions. In my humble opinion, the more questions that one asks, the more thorough will be the knowledge gained by that person, this doesn't just apply to woodworking but to every trade or profession during lectures, but the thing to remember is that you should judge the standard of the lecturer and never ask a question that could embarrass him/her in front of the class, save it till the end and ask it one on one. I used this technique many, many times during the on-going electronics training during my fifty year career, many times the answer was forthcoming but many times it wasn't and the lecturer assured me that he'd have the answer when we next met.


Thanks a lot Harry for you insight on this matter, I appreciate it.


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

*What about 8mm dia rods?*



harrysin said:


> If you're thinking of buying a router for ski use, choose one that takes 1/2" or 12mm rods, ...


My existing router only supports 8mm rods. (It is a 1/4" collet, 750W Ryobi.) Is this still practical for skis? If so, do you know how long an 8mm rod can go and still be stiff enough to properly support the router?

Darryl


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Darryl


" practical for skis? " = yes,,Just one more way to use the small rods to support the router  you can also use hardwood blocks so you move the router up and down the rods with out threads on them and use a thumb screw to lock it place place when you need to.

======



darsev said:


> My existing router only supports 8mm rods. (It is a 1/4" collet, 750W Ryobi.) Is this still practical for skis? If so, do you know how long an 8mm rod can go and still be stiff enough to properly support the router?
> 
> Darryl


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

Thanks BJ. Do you know how long the rods should be if they are 8mm?

Darryl


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

darsev said:


> Thanks BJ. Do you know how long the rods should be if they are 8mm?
> 
> Darryl


Because of the comparatively small diameter of your router base, compared to the far wider spacing of the holes in Bob's sub base as shown, I wouldn't recommend rods longer than 18" and if 12" to 14" are long enough for your needs, then this is what I'd use, as shown.


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

Thanks Harry. Could be a while before I get back to using my router like this. Have some scroll saw jobs stacked up.....


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

darsev said:


> Thanks Harry. Could be a while before I get back to using my router like this. Have some scroll saw jobs stacked up.....


Ah, scroll sawing, I bought a scroll saw some years ago, which I still have, but found that I just don't have the patience, or probably the skills to keep poking the blade through holes. I even bought a kit to enable pin-less blades to be used but it is still in it's original package, rather like so many people who buy a router which usually comes with a template guide which is never used or understood, hence my tutorials in an effort to correct this situation.


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

I was given a pattern of a gecko to cut out - just 1 required - but I knew my daughter would also be interested as she is an Early Childhood Teacher. She did, and wanted to know how many I could make. Shouldn't be much of a problem as the pattern is quite large - approx 400 x 200 - and there are no internal cuts. Still will take some time.

Actually now that I think about, I may be able to cut out the bulk of the pattern with a router and just finish off the detail on the scroll saw. Might be quicker... 

I have a trimmer bit - how would you set the router up to do this????

Darryl


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

A drawing please Darryl with measurements.


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

harrysin said:


> A drawing please Darryl with measurements.


Harry,
photo attached. Length is 520 x 320. The rule in the photo is 400mm. I got a 3mm cover sheet of mdf from work cut up into 12 sheets of 600 x 400 that I plan to use. One of them will be the template, and I will cut the rest from the template. And before the question is asked, I don't have a bush to use to follow a template, nor a sub base that will accept a bush. I have had my router for a long time when a 1/2" collet wasn't even a twinkle in an engineer's eye.

Hope this.helps explain where I am at. Have been slow responding because I have had a lot to do lately. At work I have had a lot more manual edge banding than usual, and that has taken up my concentration.

thanks,
Darryl


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## ponch37300 (May 26, 2009)

I'm going to make a set of skis in the near future. I have an older makita router very similar to the one the original poster uses. I measured the round holes and they are just under 1/2", they measure about .482". I'm a machinist and have access to full machine shop. We have a bunch of 1/2" rod so I can just cut a length and chuck it up in the lathe and turn it down to whatever I need. 

Do you slide the rod back and forth along the rods when using the skis or do you clamp the router on the rod and move the whole ski assemble when using it? Just trying to figure out what size I should turn the 1/2" rods down to give enough clearance to be able to move the router on the rods.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Scott

It's a easy to punch out the holes on the base to .502 so the rods can move in and out easy and sometimes you want to lock the base in place with a set screw, I did it on a PC 7538 router.


==



ponch37300 said:


> I'm going to make a set of skis in the near future. I have an older makita router very similar to the one the original poster uses. I measured the round holes and they are just under 1/2", they measure about .482". I'm a machinist and have access to full machine shop. We have a bunch of 1/2" rod so I can just cut a length and chuck it up in the lathe and turn it down to whatever I need.
> 
> Do you slide the rod back and forth along the rods when using the skis or do you clamp the router on the rod and move the whole ski assemble when using it? Just trying to figure out what size I should turn the 1/2" rods down to give enough clearance to be able to move the router on the rods.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

darsev said:


> Harry,
> photo attached. Length is 520 x 320. The rule in the photo is 400mm. I got a 3mm cover sheet of mdf from work cut up into 12 sheets of 600 x 400 that I plan to use. One of them will be the template, and I will cut the rest from the template. And before the question is asked, I don't have a bush to use to follow a template, nor a sub base that will accept a bush. I have had my router for a long time when a 1/2" collet wasn't even a twinkle in an engineer's eye.
> 
> Hope this.helps explain where I am at. Have been slow responding because I have had a lot to do lately. At work I have had a lot more manual edge banding than usual, and that has taken up my concentration.
> ...


I see two ways that this can be done Darryl. If they are all to be IDENTICAL, then I would suggest cutting one out on your scroll saw after slightly altering the right front foot to leave at least a 10mm gap like the other feet. Use 9mm MDF and sand the shape nice and smooth. This is now a male template and can be stuck to several pieces of your chosen material with double sided tape between each. Using a 6mm/1/4" straight bearing bit in the router table. In just a few minutes you will have copies of the template.
The other method would be to draw the outline on your material and using the ski mounted router and a straight bit, freehand rout around the outline, it really is easier than it sounds as shown in the several free hand signs that I've posted photo-shoots of. These two shots will, hopefully, give you an idea of what I mean


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

ponch37300 said:


> I'm going to make a set of skis in the near future. I have an older makita router very similar to the one the original poster uses. I measured the round holes and they are just under 1/2", they measure about .482". I'm a machinist and have access to full machine shop. We have a bunch of 1/2" rod so I can just cut a length and chuck it up in the lathe and turn it down to whatever I need.
> 
> Do you slide the rod back and forth along the rods when using the skis or do you clamp the router on the rod and move the whole ski assemble when using it? Just trying to figure out what size I should turn the 1/2" rods down to give enough clearance to be able to move the router on the rods.


Scott, can you really remove 0.7mm from a 27.5" length of 1/2" rod, that is the difference between the 12mm holes in the Makita and a 1/2" . I do agree with Bj, running a 1/2" drill through the holes would be the simple, perfect solution. 
This shot shows the router locked to the rails towards the left side and this is as far as we can go so, the router is now unlocked and slid over to the right and locked, enabling the job to be completed.


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## Melva (Jan 30, 2012)

Thank you for this information. I will making some for my router this weekend. I can see several uses for it on the things I want to make. I especially like the lighted base as my eyes are not what they used to be.


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## CAF (Mar 2, 2012)

Enjoyed your instruction on building the skis. They will be attempted in the near future. Thanks, CAF


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Please do show the results guys, don't forget they can be any shape or size, the only important measurements are the spacing for the rods, to suit your router and the diameter of the slots or holes if you prefer the height adjustment to be in steps, rather than "infinitely" adjustable with slots.


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## Dimitri M (Oct 4, 2011)

Hi Harry, I have been watching this thread all along, and was very puzzled about a certain point: does the router move along the metal bars or does the whole system remain rigid and "glides" on the table (skis and bars and router all together) ??. Both systems have pros and cons: a long suspending bar is stable enough in the dimensions of your own shown, but the 8mm rods of my DW621 will certainly curve under gravity at such long length. Also, such mobility does not exist in Bobj3's threaded rod style. If the router DOES move along the bars, then I would expect to see some kind of clamp at the ends of the MDF boards, to clamp the ski system to the table. If the whole system moves-in-one, I would expect to see some assurance of absolute smoothness in movement of the MDF on the table, or the smallest grit on the table will produce a pimple on the surface engraved. Still puzzled, I saw in your pics a very efficient way of using the skis. Until your last pic on this very page, I was sure I was missing something vital here. In the end, I consider your idea superb, but it is only fully functional with your 12mm rods, ai nd not very ambitious in the 8mm rod implementation that my router can afford.
Then, I would expect the MDF boards to have accurate holes in order to make the suspension of the router vertical - instead I see grooves with indepenent seating of every end of every rod; genius in theory yet I lack the idea of where this could be useful, can you suggest?
Finally, let me add that you have not only provided many ready-to-copy ideas and gadgets (your lighted router base is the "creme de la creme" of DIY jigs in my opinion) but have also presented and guided many discussions here that lead to new ideas and new implementations - many thanks from me as well for all your tuition and encouraging.

As for me, I am off for a major operation in my abdomen next week and it will be some time until I can rub wood with sandpaper again, but I hope I am not off action yet.

Very best wishes


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Dimitri M said:


> Hi Harry, I have been watching this thread all along, and was very puzzled about a certain point: does the router move along the metal bars or does the whole system remain rigid and "glides" on the table (skis and bars and router all together) ??. Both systems have pros and cons: a long suspending bar is stable enough in the dimensions of your own shown, but the 8mm rods of my DW621 will certainly curve under gravity at such long length. Also, such mobility does not exist in Bobj3's threaded rod style. If the router DOES move along the bars, then I would expect to see some kind of clamp at the ends of the MDF boards, to clamp the ski system to the table. If the whole system moves-in-one, I would expect to see some assurance of absolute smoothness in movement of the MDF on the table, or the smallest grit on the table will produce a pimple on the surface engraved. Still puzzled, I saw in your pics a very efficient way of using the skis. Until your last pic on this very page, I was sure I was missing something vital here. In the end, I consider your idea superb, but it is only fully functional with your 12mm rods, ai nd not very ambitious in the 8mm rod implementation that my router can afford.
> Then, I would expect the MDF boards to have accurate holes in order to make the suspension of the router vertical - instead I see grooves with indepenent seating of every end of every rod; genius in theory yet I lack the idea of where this could be useful, can you suggest?
> Finally, let me add that you have not only provided many ready-to-copy ideas and gadgets (your lighted router base is the "creme de la creme" of DIY jigs in my opinion) but have also presented and guided many discussions here that lead to new ideas and new implementations - many thanks from me as well for all your tuition and encouraging.
> 
> ...


It's good to hear from you again Dimitri, I was getting concerned about your health.
Where do I begin, whilst the skis that I've been demonstrating here for the the past few years were designed to be locked to the rods whilst in use, there is no law that says this is the only way for them to be used. There are no patents on these skis, everyone is free to design and use their own ideas, and many versions have been made by forum members. As for routers with 8mm rods, in my humble opinion these are not serious routers, and whilst I have such a router and in fact have made and posted skis for it, most of it's life is spent in a cupboard. I have said on many occasions that anyone wishing to get serious about routing should start with a big powerful router with 12mm or 1/2" side fence holes. I guarantee that you don't have to be 6' 4" to handle one, for crying out loud, I'm barely more than 5' 2" and 78 years old and have a defibrillator in my chest and have no problems at all using such machines. You must realise that in use, the router is sitting on the work-piece or template, not being held in the air.
Regarding smoothness of movement of the skis, experience has taught me that _some_ friction is desirable to ensure that there is no tendency for the skis to "run away", that's why I have iron-on edging strip on the bottom edge and use a chipboard sacrificial bench top.
Finally Dimitri I hope that all goes well with the operation.


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## Dimitri M (Oct 4, 2011)

Thank you Harry, you cleared the fog again off the matter. The very idea of a heavy 1/2" machine on 12mm bars eliminates vibration, wobbling, or rotary inertia and friction problems and makes its movement smooth enough for a good job. The small Bosch on your first pic is exactly my first router, nowadays used only for minor smoothing of edges; obviously it is too "anaemic" to handle demanding work. On the other hand, I was disappointed to find out that DW downrated the 621K by giving it holes for 8mm rails to move on. At the time I bought it I was not aware that by buying a router you commit yourself to making a number of various jigs for it, until a year later I bought and read a book on router jigs. Well, I am stuck with it now, so for the time I will have to make do. 

The enlightment came with your second pic: (is it you working?) the tidyness and the preparation for the job completion surprise me; I never paid enough attention in preparing for a job, let alone cleaning up the mess after. I blame a lot of this behavior on two factors: (a) I never worked under anyone in any woodworking environment, I am totally self taught, and (b) where I really work I always have assistant staff to pass into my hand whatever needed and sort out the mess after, so I am totally spoiled here !!!

Well , many thanks again, the op is programmed for next Tuesday, I hope to make it well enough to come back here and start again, and then we talk some more in the forums, I enjoy your tuitions, the passing of knowledge, because I like your point of view, the philosophy of your approach - you lack the mystic air of primadonnas and respect the different opinions of others, yet have a big experience to draw conclusions from.

All the best

Dimitri


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Gee whiz Dimitri, I'm blushing (I can now as I'm over the anaemia), yes, that shot is of yours truly more than ten years ago. I'm currently working on another French style balloon clock using a 5" fit-up but keep getting side-tracked with other projects and it will probably end up as a forum "video" with probably around 60 shots, 30 being the design and making of the templates.
Get well soon my friend and try to be a good patient!


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## olwudwurker (Mar 16, 2011)

Great work Harry. I always look for post from you. They are always informative. Keep it up. Roy


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thank you kind sir, I intend to but at the moment I have several projects on the go and am being slowed down by a damaged rotator in my right shoulder. Tomorrow I'm having a Cortisone injection under Ultrasound so hopefully in a few days I'll speed up.


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## klaus Rüdiger (Mar 28, 2012)

Thank you for your wonderful presentation.

Klaus


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thank you Klaus, there are plenty more to come, the next one is for the more advanced routologists.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Starting work on my skis ... my Ryobi router base takes 3/8" rods, and the hold down screws are #10-32. 

How high should I locate the router base? 

I'm thinking 1 3/4" or so so I can work with 2 by stock.

I suppose I can make another set of holes in the feet that locate the router lower if I need it lower.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Chris Curl said:


> Starting work on my skis ... my Ryobi router base takes 3/8" rods, and the hold down screws are #10-32.
> 
> How high should I locate the router base?
> 
> ...


I'm not too bright today Chris. I'm not sure what you mean, does this shot help, bearing in mind that 3/8" rods are really this and so they mustn't be so long as to allow sag. Don't be shy to ask as many questions as you like, no questions are considered silly.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Harry, yes that helps very much ... slots like what you have there is the answer. Thanks. It looks like you have about 3" of adjustability or so ... is that a single piece of 1 by 6 or something along those lines? 

Do any of you put anything under the skis (like that low friction plastic stuff) to make them glide more easily?

*edit* never mind about the questions, reading the other posts in the thread first ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I use iron on edging strip, it's smooth but not slippery, the last thing you would want is a ski mounted router that runs away from you Chri!


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## Erik Stol (Sep 10, 2010)

*Getting rods to equal height*

Hi Harry, 

I do like your design very much: It simple! More over, compared to the fixed sleigh version this one doesn’t take much space to sowe away. A big issue in my small 3x4,5 m shop.
My major concern would be that when you are trying to set the height vor flattening, the possibility is that the 4 rods are not all equal on the same height adjusted. Is that something not to be scared of?

Erik
Holland


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

hi erik,

if the rods are not all the same distance off the surface, then the bit would not be perpendicular to the surface.

i use a couple of pieces of wood the same thickness (e.g.-2x4s) to make sure they are all the same height. i loosen the skis and rest it by the rods on the wood and then tighten the skis down. then i know that the bit is perpendicular.


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## Erik Stol (Sep 10, 2010)

Chris, 

Thanx for the reply. That’s is indeed a very „simple” solution for the might be of perpindicalar situation.

Erik


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

harry, if i already had skiis for my router, it would be easier to make skiis for my router!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Chris Curl said:


> harry, if i already had skiis for my router, it would be easier to make skiis for my router!


Chris, skis are not necessary to make skis. I showed an alternative method of routing the slots and I'm sure that YOU could, with just a little thought find a still different method. For planing boards, using a bit up to about 3/4" diameter, the setting of the height in all four corners is not super critical, however with something like a 1 3/4" bottom cleaning bit it is VERY critical, if out will cause a slight ridge in the surface. I've used various methods to set the four corners, a piece of identical wood at each end long enough to pass under both rods, a single piece of wood placed under each corner in turn, which requires several attempts because each adjustment slightly effects the other corners. The most accurate method that I use is a dial vernier gauge.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

harry, i know ... i was trying to be funny ... it was funnier when i was thinking it ... sometimes the humor gets lost in the medium.

i'm sure people have made them out of plywood ... that is what i am planning to use, 3/4" thick ply to be specific.

any words of advice or things to be on the lookout for when using plywood for skiis?

sorry if this has already been discussed, when threads get so long, i tend to miss stuff in the middle of them.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

No Chris. you were spot on, when I posted the original files for conversion to a slide show/video, I did use skis to make the skis and it was only when Mike pointed it out to me that I added a few shots showing an alternative method. I too found the humour in it when it was pointed out!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Chris, we will be doing a photo shoot of constructing a ski jig from plywood on Monday. Here is a peek at the prototype.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Mike, will the photoshoot be available on-line, and if so, where?


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I made some progress on mine last night ...

I did it this way primarily because I already had a couple of 1 foot long 3/8" threaded rods, a 16" piece of maple 1x2, and a 16" piece of 1x12.

But the other thing about this approach is that i can really crank down the nuts on the rods, so the router support is very rigid.

I still need to shape the handles and clean them up and stuff like that.

I can really see how skis are going to make some of my tasks easier.


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## fm1328 (May 26, 2012)

My thanks to Harry Sin for the nice video on router ski. Was wondering if I used long threads -- which is very cheap, would the sag in the thread ( the "tube" ) would be a problem , especially when the length is long ?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Farhad, 1/2" rods, whether smooth or allthread can, in my experience go up to 30" but longer than this when routing hardwood, the pressure on the bit tends to minutely lift the router leading to a less than perfect surface. As the diameter is reduced, so must the length until at about 8mm diameter 12" to 14" is about the maximum.


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## mgvros (Jul 18, 2012)

Hello Harry... thank you for the video ion making router skis. It was easy to understand, and well done. I was wondering... would a flat strip of metal connecting the two rods...with an upright line that would match an upright line on the side of the ski..be appropriate to ensure perpendicularity? .........Frank


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

harrysin said:


> Farhad, 1/2" rods, whether smooth or allthread can, in my experience go up to 30" but longer than this when routing hardwood, the pressure on the bit tends to minutely lift the router leading to a less than perfect surface. As the diameter is reduced, so must the length until at about 8mm diameter 12" to 14" is about the maximum.


so for a router that uses 3/8" rods (like the inexpensive ryobi router i have), then about 18" or so would be about the maximum recommended length?


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## 57759 (Apr 8, 2011)

Is there any possible way to search for the Router Ski Video using the search function or the advanced search function? Attempting to find it by going through a hundred replies just really isn't much fun. Thank you.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

SandburRanch said:


> Is there any possible way to search for the Router Ski Video using the search function or the advanced search function? Attempting to find it by going through a hundred replies just really isn't much fun. Thank you.


If you check the top of the home page, there is a tab for some router forum videos.

Harry has done a slideshow with audio on making my set of skis.

Here it is on Youtube:
http://youtu.be/GNhlETbscUMadd link


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

mgvros said:


> Hello Harry... thank you for the video ion making router skis. It was easy to understand, and well done. I was wondering... would a flat strip of metal connecting the two rods...with an upright line that would match an upright line on the side of the ski..be appropriate to ensure perpendicularity? .........Frank


Frankly Frank, I really don't think that it's necessary. For most jobs using two identical blocks as shown in James' thread is sufficiently accurate. When precision is required, then measuring each corner using a vernier is how I adjust the skis. There are occasions when super precision is required, in this case the best way that I have found is to make a pair of fixed height end cheeks which takes very little time

Edit..I have attempted to add two photographs but as I click "post reply" I lose everything, the forum and firefox. This afternoon I posted a reply to James thread which included photographs and it worked OK. Perhaps Mike could advise where the problem lies.


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## dustmagnet (Jul 24, 2012)

Thanks Harry,
I got my honey do's done and I guess I'll be in the shop building some ski's, doesn't make much sense to build them in 105 degree weather though.....


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I don't know about that Joe, it's a great way to lose a few pounds. One Christmas break many years ago I built a Welsh dresser in similar temperatures, the sweat wasn't dripping from my forehead, it was running in a constant stream!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Mike said:


> Chris, we will be doing a photo shoot of constructing a ski jig from plywood on Monday. Here is a peek at the prototype.


Mike,

It is now Thursday..... have you finished the photo shoot?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

James, it is Mike that you're talking about!

Sorry Mike.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

harrysin said:


> James, it is Mike that you're talking about!
> 
> Sorry Mike.


Harry, James was reminding Mike of something he mentioned to me a while ago, asking Mike if he could let us know where to find the photos he was referring to.

That was more than a couple of mondays ago.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Yes I know Chris., I also KNOW Mike!!!!!!!


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

*Can i use threaded rod??*

Could i use threaded rod to make my skis? I don't have the ability to machine my own threaded ends on solid bar and haven't had a chance to get out to a local machine shop to get some made--but i do have several lengths of threaded rod on hand that i could cut to size. 

Seems like the set screws would depress the threads enough to give a good bite at the base plate. The center part of the rod could be wrapped with a thickness of teflon tape to help keep from marring the bores--is that even a concern??

Sorry if this has been addressed but i didn't come up with the answer in the time i had to search. Thanks!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I have done it with threaded rod and it works fine..to me it's better than plain rod..

See my uploads for many snapshots of them..

just a side note you don't need to move the router up and down the rods..

===


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Thanks Bob--the only negative i could see was the possibility of scratching the inside of the base bores, but that seemed like it would be negligible if at all. My Bosch routers take a 3/8" rod, and i've got that on hand, along with 1/4" and 1/2". Not sure about the Hitachi M12V2, but i'm guessing it's metric--if so our local Ace Hardware carries some metric rod.

I'm also thinking that using a full threaded rod might allow for running nuts up to the router base to keep it from lateral movement. Probably not necessary but i may experiment.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Fine thread works well but if you move the router up and down the rod it can act like a file in time,you can always put some plastic tubing over it if you want but it's not a big deal at all..it's all done with with the ends parts (skis) after all..

Here's a snapshot of 6, that I used all the time out of 10 that I have on hand..
some have plain rods but most of them are full threaded rod type.

==


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

I guess when you count your routers by the dozen--10 or 12 pairs of skis doesn't sound like much!! It's about one set of skis for every 5 routers?? I want to make sure i'm using the correct ratio!!

I really like the one with the plex plate and L-bracket mount--reduced chance of rod flex. If i decide to use that big Hitachi--i may use that as a mount. Using one of the 1617's i shouldn't have any deflection as long as i move it with the ski sides instead of the router handles.

Thanks again.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

> Here's a snapshot of 6, that I used all the time out of 10 that I have on hand.


Bob, are you going for a set of skis for every router you have??????......VBG


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James

No I don't think so, I'm making one more new type at the time but that will be it for a bit.

===



jw2170 said:


> Bob, are you going for a set of skis for every router you have??????......VBG


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob, my friend, whilst I agree that allthread is better than nothing, I can't for the life of me understand how you can say that it's BETTER than SMOOTH bright mild steel. To start with, I only have FOUR large knobs (previously wing nuts) to tighten for locking the end cheeks which automatically will be parallel, whereas with allthread you have EIGHT nuts to adjust and measurements to make in order to ensure that the end cheeks are parallel. I must also point out that for operations like planing a wide board, part way through, the router must be slid along the rods and re-locked in order to plane the full width of the board. Personally I only use the one set of skis which measure 27.5", the other two small ones were made purely as forum projects and I've never found a use for them. For most of my regular ski routing I fit a large sheet of chipboard on top of my router table and this ensures that there is no possibility of the skis dropping over the edge, and of course when not in use stands against a wall taking up next to no room.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Harry, my friend

The threaded rod is plated the norm so no chance to rust, I just need to use a wrench on one nut,I just hand turn the the nuts into place and then just tighten the nut on the cheek and they are always parallel,quick and easy..the last thing I want is the rods to slip on the cheeks..
I just drop the cam board in place on the router table no need to get a one more top out but I will say I have the bigger top also if needed ( 4ft x 4ft ) that has a block on the bottom side of the board to drop in the router plate hole no clamps needed to keep it in place,,

All thread is betters,it's cheap ,about 5.oo to make a ski jig and the router can be locked it place, and router can be moved to any place on the rods, easy stuff with the wing screws on the router base..I have many rods from 12" to 6ft long,1/4" to 3/4" in diam. ,I don't use the ski's to plane boards the norm but can if needed,I have found out over time it's a bit lame way of doing,if I need some thin stock I use the band saw and then put it in planner to clean it up or buy the 1/4" or 1/2",etc. thick stock from the wood store that comes all done from them...


==






harrysin said:


> Bob, my friend, whilst I agree that allthread is better than nothing, I can't for the life of me understand how you can say that it's BETTER than SMOOTH bright mild steel. To start with, I only have FOUR large knobs (previously wing nuts) to tighten for locking the end cheeks which automatically will be parallel, whereas with allthread you have EIGHT nuts to adjust and measurements to make in order to ensure that the end cheeks are parallel. I must also point out that for operations like planing a wide board, part way through, the router must be slid along the rods and re-locked in order to plane the full width of the board. Personally I only use the one set of skis which measure 27.5", the other two small ones were made purely as forum projects and I've never found a use for them. For most of my regular ski routing I fit a large sheet of chipboard on top of my router table and this ensures that there is no possibility of the skis dropping over the edge, and of course when not in use stands against a wall taking up next to no room.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I am sorry I haven't posted the photos of the plywood ski jig build yet; it has been 95° in my shop and I take no chances since suffering a heat injury in Korea. On a brighter note I have been busy working on deals for forums members. Now that Nathan is back from vacation I have a bit less to do on the forums so hopefully I will get the photos up this week.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Better be quick Mike, summer is over and soon it will be too cold in your shop and the snow too high to open the doors!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Harry, my friend
> 
> The threaded rod is plated the norm so no chance to rust, I just need to use a wrench on one nut,I just hand turn the the nuts into place and then just tighten the nut on the cheek and they are always parallel,quick and easy..the last thing I want is the rods to slip on the cheeks..
> I just drop the cam board in place on the router table no need to get a one more top out but I will say I have the bigger top also if needed ( 4ft x 4ft ) that has a block on the bottom side of the board to drop in the router plate hole no clamps needed to keep it in place,,
> ...


What in the world do you make using 6' x 3/4" ski rods? I can only imagine something like a snow blower mounted rather than a router!


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## jcliff (May 10, 2012)

I made a temporary set of skis today so I could shave a number of pieces down to a certain size. As I was making them for a specific job and my routers a plunge I didnt bother with the slots and being adjustable, the plunge had enough range for what I was doing. So I just screwed two offcuts of 2x4 together, and match drilled them with the pillar drill to ensure the holes were parallel and equally spaced, then I used some rods I had kicking about in a box of bits that I saved when I scrapped a couple of old flatbed scanners. Didnt bother with securing the rods in the blocks, the holes were a snug enough fit that you had to try pretty hard to move them and I dont have the means in my shed to put a thread on a hardened rod. worked a treat though, meant I could plane them down to size pretty efficiently. (table saw would have been easier and quicker, dont have one though, so needed to finda another way.) Thanks for introducing me to the concept, not sure how I'd have done it without them.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jcliff said:


> I made a temporary set of skis today so I could shave a number of pieces down to a certain size. As I was making them for a specific job and my routers a plunge I didnt bother with the slots and being adjustable, the plunge had enough range for what I was doing. So I just screwed two offcuts of 2x4 together, and match drilled them with the pillar drill to ensure the holes were parallel and equally spaced, then I used some rods I had kicking about in a box of bits that I saved when I scrapped a couple of old flatbed scanners. Didnt bother with securing the rods in the blocks, the holes were a snug enough fit that you had to try pretty hard to move them and I dont have the means in my shed to put a thread on a hardened rod. worked a treat though, meant I could plane them down to size pretty efficiently. (table saw would have been easier and quicker, dont have one though, so needed to finda another way.) Thanks for introducing me to the concept, not sure how I'd have done it without them.


There is nothing wrong with that method, even I have used it.


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## jcliff (May 10, 2012)

harrysin said:


> There is nothing wrong with that method, even I have used it.


Yours still look a whole lot more finished than mine did 

Kinda little league vs majors!


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## jcliff (May 10, 2012)

jcliff said:


> Yours still look a whole lot more finished than mine did
> 
> Kinda little league vs majors!


Crude but effective


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

John, it doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to work.


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## chengiz (Oct 30, 2010)

*Thank you, Mr Sinclair*

It has been a sheer pleasure reading and hearing you explain how to build a router ski. Your steps are as clear as your diction! You have simplified things to the extent that even I have the confidence now to build some jigs. Thank you very much.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thank for you nice comments Indranil, I'm pleased to have been able to help you. Because you have completed your public profile I feel that I know you and so my name is Harry.


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## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

*I Do Not have a metal Lathe...*

Hello Harrysin,

I Do Not have a metal lathe....

How do you suggest that I get a "hold" of 1/2" steel stock that is smooth threads on both ends to accept the "fender" washer and nut ?

I am in California, just outside of San Francisco.

Thanks,
Neil




harrysin said:


> The skis that I'm about to make are the same as the ones first shown on this forum over three years ago. Since that time, many members have made their own version, some quite complex, however, these skis are very versatile and can perform many operations, some of which would be difficult or even impossible by other means. My preference for the rods has always been smooth bright mild steel, reduced in diameter at the ends and threaded, leaving a shoulder for the fender washer. Those members without access to a lathe wouldn't be charged very much to have the ends threaded. The actual shape of the end cheeks is unimportant, however, the router should be able to be slid close to the ends without the handles restricting the travel. For all operations except slotting, the assembly should be operated by the end cheeks, this gives incredible control and does not put pressure on the router which, especially with thin rods, will not give an even depth of cut.
> 
> Continued in next post


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Neil, there are many ways to skin a cat and many people have built their own jigs according to their needs. I have been collecting ski jig photos from our site to assist members in building their own. Here is a sampling of the different types I have seen. I am almost finished building a small ski jig for a trim router using plywood; I will add photos very soon.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

neiltsubota said:


> Hello Harrysin,
> 
> I Do Not have a metal lathe....
> 
> ...


I'm sure that any jobbing machine shop would turn down and thread the rods at modest cost if you supplied the rods. Smooth rods really are better than using allthread. Have you checked your relatives and friends to see if any of them know someone who has a metal lathe. Over the years quite a few people who live within easy driving distance from me have brought rods for me to turn down and thread, at no cost of course (I know, I know, I'm a great guy!)


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

you can also get creative and use a drill and a grinder. put the rod in the drill and support the other end. then take the grinder and grind the other end down while it is spinning. you'll get lots of sparks


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## lvecor (Sep 21, 2012)

Gracias. Voy a intentar a hacerlo


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Chris Curl said:


> you can also get creative and use a drill and a grinder. put the rod in the drill and support the other end. then take the grinder and grind the other end down while it is spinning. you'll get lots of sparks


"you'll get lots of sparks" and no doubt lots of eccentricity!


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

harrysin said:


> "you'll get lots of sparks" and no doubt lots of eccentricity!


harry, why? it would essentially be a poor man's lathe. of course, you have to secure the drill and take measures to make sure the rod is spinning on center and not wobbling, but assuming you can do that, it should be good enough to use as intended.

what am i missing?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Or you can use plywood.


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## Sunshine0103 (Apr 29, 2012)

Thank you for your video "beginners guide making router skis". You have a way words, plus I just love your accent! I appreciate the time you spent in making this video so that anyone who has a need may gain the knowledge with which to build a set of skis! Knowledge is power, but the greater power is in the ability to share the knowledge! Thank you, again!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I appreciate your kind remarks Sondra. My aim on this forum always has been to introduce would-be routologists to the fact that table routing is only one aspect of routing, there are, as you now know far more exciting ways in which the router can be used.


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## R.J. (Jun 1, 2012)

Thanks for posting.
I hope it will help me.


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## DHB (Dec 30, 2012)

Just joined the group Harry, and this was the first article I've read. Very informative, can't wait to the shops open again in Adelaide as I need to buy some all thread!!


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

I was initially looking at methods for using the router to plane/thickness timber and came across this thread. Initially I couldn't quite work out how skis were used, and whether they would be suitable for my purpose. Having now read the thread from go to whoa I think I have finally got a handle on it (although a video of one showing their various uses would be good).

Having got to the end I realised that in a way I already have one...

fancy router skis? - YouTube


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Gary,

This is a terrible video....
but it may help.

Using router skis demo1 - YouTube


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I was almost horrified when when you started planing by sliding the router along the rods James but relaxed when you locked it and operated the jig by the ski ends and so obtained the benefit of mechanical advantage that was afforded.


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## tdog (Nov 30, 2011)

Actually for me it was nice to see the ski jig in a video.Had read and seen pics but never seen it at work.Good job JW.
Tdog


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Gary,
> 
> This is a terrible video....
> but it may help.
> ...


I have to totally disagree with - it's NOT a terrible video, it's a great video.

It helps a great deal - thanks heaps.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> I was almost horrified when when you started planing by sliding the router along the rods James but relaxed when you locked it and operated the jig by the ski ends and so obtained the benefit of mechanical advantage that was afforded.



hahahah.

trust you to be watching, Harry.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James

You did a fine job with the video,

==


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> hahahah.
> 
> trust you to be watching, Harry.


I've been carefully following your progress for a long time James, and progress it has been. When my time is up I'm sure that you will be well capable of taking over where I leave off.


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## VANGODIAS (Mar 10, 2013)

Muito bom esse sistema pra usar o roteador, vou fazer um jig desse


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

"Muito bom esse sistema pra usar o roteador, vou fazer um jig desse"

_Very good this system to use the router, I will make a jig that_


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## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

*Hibernian skis..*

I've made my first set of skis today, using a series of holes at 13mm intervals rather than slots - the plunge range of the router will allow the in-between settings and I think the holes will be a little easier to level than slots. I used 8mm silver steel round bar with M8 x 1.5 hand-cut threads on the ends.

Now to find something useful to do with it...








JC


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Looks good John. You may find it more comfortable to use if you attach some knobs or handles to the outside of the risers. That is something I noticed on the small plywood ski jig.


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## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

Mike said:


> Looks good John. You may find it more comfortable to use if you attach some knobs or handles to the outside of the risers. That is something I noticed on the small plywood ski jig.


Thanks Mike, I haven't forgotten about the handles. I'll turn something the next time I have my lathe in action.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Well done John, what you say about the holes being easier to make is of course true, but changing holes is a much bigger job than just slackening wing nuts or knobs. A jig saw would quickly change the holes into slots. I've always said that, like some other tools, the skis won't be used every day however, jobs will come along that will be far easier to accomplish using the skis and some jobs almost impossible without them!


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## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

harrysin said:


> Well done John, what you say about the holes being easier to make is of course true, but changing holes is a much bigger job than just slackening wing nuts or knobs. A jig saw would quickly change the holes into slots. I've always said that, like some other tools, the skis won't be used every day however, jobs will come along that will be far easier to accomplish using the skis and some jobs almost impossible without them!



Thanks Harry. God forbid that undoing four little nuts would ever be considered a big job in my shed! I've been known to tackle bigger projects. Now that I have skis, I can make skis with slots per your original design and instructions I suppose. I'll see how much use I get from this set-up before making the JC Mk II version. I have a slab of beech I milled last week that would make a nice sign, it has the bark still on around the edges. I've searched the sign-making sub-forum here for 'skis', and every hit I get turns out to be a sentence saying ..'no skis were used...' etc.


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## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

Harry - I've now turned two knobs from a scrap of beech to act as handles and attached them per your advice and Mike's, see pic, still trying to dream up some easy project to try this rig out!


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## japa62 (May 9, 2012)

Here is my first attempt at router skis. Done about 7 weeks ago but due to several badly place skin cancers, have had to look at the shed from afar and plan. 

First is the plans, 
2nd and 3rd, alternative views
4th routed and cross planned
5th just routed
6th pissed off due to rod slip and thought I would just see what would happen anyway.
7th and last, switching controls.

Notes:
I nearly went with Johns hole idea but wanted to practice slot routing. For now on using the skis. 
Slots allow easy adjustment but also allow for easy stuff-ups. See photo 6.
I also thought that even though I measured rod height multiple times that it was still not routing level. Cannot see this in the photo's and more testing is needed by me. 
Clamping, need to research this more. 

Another operation on the back tomorrow so I have to wait another month to go play but luckily the Brissy Timber and Woodworking show is after this.

Thanx's to Harry, James and others that have contributed to this thread.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The knob looks great John, now may I suggest that you round the corners of the end cheeks! To me things that look good seem to perform good, have you never noticed that a freshly cleaned and polished car with the sun glistening off the bonnet (hood?) feels like a million dollars worth?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

japa62 said:


> Here is my first attempt at router skis. Done about 7 weeks ago but due to several badly place skin cancers, have had to look at the shed from afar and plan.
> 
> First is the plans,
> 2nd and 3rd, alternative views
> ...


Well done to you too James. In use all four corner heights must be identical, particularly when planing using a large bottom cleaning bit or a tiny step will occur between runs. It looks like you're using a clamp to hold the switch on, if this is the case then a Velcro strap is much more elegant. 
For the benefit of members deciding which router to buy, I always suggest the most powerful one with the biggest diameter side fence holes like 1/2" (12mm), such a tool will perform every task asked of it and router skis will perform magnificently with no droop!


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## japa62 (May 9, 2012)

Ta Harry, 

Corner heights I tested continuously with a height gauge, I think as you go to say that the router is limited by rod diameter with width not helping. Centering is important with this setup. 

The bit I went with is a style that recommended earlier in this thread, dishcutter. Have a smaller bottom clear that I was planning to test next month. 

So looking forward to getting back into making some sawdust.
With the switch, will give the velcro a go but was using the clamp so I could only just press the lock on button to start instead of permanently on. With the clamp I could just knock off in case off an emergency.


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## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

harrysin said:


> The knob looks great John, now may I suggest that you round the corners of the end cheeks! To me things that look good seem to perform good, have you never noticed that a freshly cleaned and polished car with the sun glistening off the bonnet (hood?) feels like a million dollars worth?


Thanks again Harry - I usually polish the car after the engine runs sweetly! And, we say bonnet here ;-) but I know what you mean either way. Anyhow, I've put the beast to the test - first result is rough enough but I'm learning, I'll make a few adjustments to the process the next time I use it.








That El-cheapo router is nearing the end of its days, it seems to have developed wear in the legs so it tends to rock - I'll try the skis with my Elu in future. This was only a very rough slab of off-cut beech, but it still looks ruggedly attractive I think.
I found myself holding the router by its handles, it'll take a while to undo the instinctive muscle memory where that's concerned.

Onwards...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

That's an amazingly good first attempt John, especially with thin rods and operating using the router's handles.


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## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

harrysin said:


> That's an amazingly good first attempt John, especially with thin rods and operating using the router's handles.



Thanks again Harry, you're being too kind, it's rough as hell. I know you dislike thin rods, and I went over your recommendation, my skis are 17" between the inner faces. However, I hate wasting material so I cut my metre length of rod in half and went from there. I can always cut off some and thread it again. If sag becomes a significant problem, I might counter it with two more rods between the upper outer corners, which would take the load in compression, and maybe which could even be pre-loaded a little. I'll make another sign in the next few days with the Elu router and I'll discipline myself to use the ski handles. I'll choose my font more carefully to avoid small inner spaces the router bit can't reach, and I might carefully chisel around the letters first wherever possible.

However, before I make any more sawdust I have some fee-earning desk work to do first!

JC


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

JCJCJC said:


> Thanks again Harry, you're being too kind, it's rough as hell. I know you dislike thin rods, and I went over your recommendation, my skis are 17" between the inner faces. However, I hate wasting material so I cut my metre length of rod in half and went from there. I can always cut off some and thread it again. If sag becomes a significant problem, I might counter it with two more rods between the upper outer corners, which would take the load in compression, and maybe which could even be pre-loaded a little. I'll make another sign in the next few days with the Elu router and I'll discipline myself to use the ski handles. I'll choose my font more carefully to avoid small inner spaces the router bit can't reach, and I might carefully chisel around the letters first wherever possible.
> 
> However, before I make any more sawdust I have some fee-earning desk work to do first!
> 
> JC


Where clearances are tight I start off with a 1/8" bit John.


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## bdusten (Mar 22, 2013)

So much to learn. I bought a couple of threaded rods from the store and put a plastic cover over them it works quite well, Thanks for the idea!!!


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## whimsofchaz (Jun 6, 2013)

Harry,

I found this post while trying tgo find information on making a ski for my router. You seem to be quite knowledgeable. The piece that holds the rods and mounts on the router is that model specific, or did you make it? If you could point me in the right direction it would be appreciated. I want to use the ski to hel me mill down some twisted lumber it to useable stock but there are so many uses for the set up. As you can see I am new to the forum and new to wood working. Thanks


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

whimsofchaz said:


> Harry,
> 
> I found this post while trying tgo find information on making a ski for my router. You seem to be quite knowledgeable. The piece that holds the rods and mounts on the router is that model specific, or did you make it? If you could point me in the right direction it would be appreciated. I want to use the ski to hel me mill down some twisted lumber it to useable stock but there are so many uses for the set up. As you can see I am new to the forum and new to wood working. Thanks


Perhaps these shots will be helpful. Two things are router specific, diameter of rods to suit holes in router and spacing of the rods to also suit the router. The smaller the diameter of the rods and the heavier the router, the shorter they should be to avoid sag. Don't forget that in operation the assembly is controlled by the ski ends NOT the router's handles, this ensures that the downward pressure is constant and gives a great deal of mechanical advantage leading to superb control.


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## Peteroo (Aug 17, 2011)

HI Harry 
May I ask where you purchased the screw on light for the router above please?
regards
Peteroo


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Peteroo said:


> HI Harry
> May I ask where you purchased the screw on light for the router above please?
> regards
> Peteroo


Peter, it was bought from one of the many $2.00 shops for about $4.00! I have also seen them in Kmart. That was one of many different lights that I've used over the years and was far from the best because it uses button cells which don't have much capacity. This pdf shows the various ones. The one that you refer to is held on with double sided tape. The photo shows the final one using a nine LED torch with parallel sides which enabled it to be slid in the tool clip for optimum position. The current lighting position is this: the lighted base is on the Makita 3612C which is permanently on skis and the torch is no longer used because I have sold the Makita 3600BR and my main router is now the current model Makita RP2301FC which has built-in LED lights but they are nowhere near as good as the torch which I'm thinking of fitting on this router.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Did you know that many of the good routers now come with built in lights.
Craftsman for just one of them 



====


harrysin said:


> Peter, it was bought from one of the many $2.00 shops for about $4.00! I have also seen them in Kmart. That was one of many different lights that I've used over the years and was far from the best because it uses button cells which don't have much capacity. This pdf shows the various ones. The one that you refer to is held on with double sided tape. The photo shows the final one using a nine LED torch with parallel sides which enabled it to be slid in the tool clip for optimum position. The current lighting position is this: the lighted base is on the Makita 3612C which is permanently on skis and the torch is no longer used because I have sold the Makita 3600BR and my main router is now the current model Makita RP2301FC which has built-in LED lights but they are nowhere near as good as the torch which I'm thinking of fitting on this router.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

*Oh Harry?????*



harrysin said:


> Peter, it was bought from one of the many $2.00 shops for about $4.00! I have also seen them in Kmart. That was one of many different lights that I've used over the years and was far from the best because it uses button cells which don't have much capacity. This pdf shows the various ones. The one that you refer to is held on with double sided tape. The photo shows the final one using a nine LED torch with parallel sides which enabled it to be slid in the tool clip for optimum position. The current lighting position is this: the lighted base is on the Makita 3612C which is permanently on skis and the torch is no longer used because I have sold the Makita 3600BR and my main router is now the current model Makita RP2301FC which has built-in LED lights but they are nowhere near as good as the torch which I'm thinking of fitting on this router.


$4.00 at a $2.00 dollar store! What's wrong with that picture Harry?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Dr.Zook said:


> $4.00 at a $2.00 dollar store!  What's wrong with that picture Harry?



LOL...trust you to pick up on that Dave...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I give up guys, what is wrong with that photo.?

Bob, in the bottom line I said that my new Makita RP3201FC router has built in lights but they only come on when the router is switched on which is no good when setting the bit to a marked line. Do any of the routers with built in lights have the ability to be switched on independent of the router itself?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

That's true but I don't need the light until the bit starts to spin I only need it to see where the bit is going and most of the time the router will block that view anyway.

but when I need that type of help I use the base below with a laser light built in.

On-Point Universal Laser Guided Router Plate

==
===


harrysin said:


> I give up guys, what is wrong with that photo.?
> 
> Bob, in the bottom line I said that my new Makita RP3201FC router has built in lights but they only come on when the router is switched on which is no good when setting the bit to a marked line. Do any of the routers with built in lights have the ability to be switched on independent of the router itself?


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

harrysin said:


> I give up guys, what is wrong with that photo.?


Harry, I think our OS friends are somewhat surprised at our ($2->$4) *shocking* rate of inflation (I mean REAL inflation - not the government publicised version). Now, go on, I dare you, - tell them what a sheet of Birch (or similar) plywood costs here.... ;-)


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Well Garry, quality plywood is very difficult to locate here in Perth, Bunnings sell cheap crap at a relatively high price and one major wood place no longer stocks plywood because they told me that it was impossible to compete with Bunnings, price wise.
I'm still not sure that my two good friends Dave and James meant the $4.00 price in a $2.00 shop.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> That's true but I don't need the light until the bit starts to spin I only need it to see where the bit is going and most of the time the router will block that view anyway.
> 
> ...


Bob, as you know, you and I have different methods of achieving a particular result. These shots taken from some of my many projects clearly show how the light was necessary to line up the bit before switching on the router.


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Bunnings sell cheap crap at a relatively high price ...


Well put - sums it up very well.



harrysin said:


> I'm still not sure that my two good friends Dave and James meant the $4.00 price in a $2.00 shop.


Maybe not, but it was a good opportunity to have a whinge - it doesn't take much to set me off. ;-)


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Dave was not commenting on the photo, but that the torch cost $4 in a $2 shop....VBG.

"whats wrong with that picture" means what does not look right, here.....


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

jw2170 said:


> Dave was not commenting on the photo, but that the torch cost $4 in a $2 shop....VBG.
> 
> "whats wrong with that picture" means what does not look right, here.....



...and hence my "inflation" gag...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I did of course add an exclamation mark thus!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Because I did see the irony of it. For the same price some time later I bought several of the blue torches at $4.00 each, which was much better value and worked so much better.


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## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

I wanted to add my thanks to a great tutorial on making this tool. A couple of time I've seen posts about router skies but by far this was the most complete. It's still not at the top of my build list but it is inching its way up.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I don't recall seeing any windows in your shop It may help if you turn the lights on in the tin box/////>>> b/4 you fire up the router.. 


=====


harrysin said:


> Bob, as you know, you and I have different methods of achieving a particular result. These shots taken from some of my many projects clearly show how the light was necessary to line up the bit before switching on the router.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> I don't recall seeing any windows in your shop It may help if you turn the lights on in the tin box/////>>> b/4 you fire up the router..
> 
> ...


Sure I have a window in my 15' x 20' tin shed but I keep the blind down most of the year because we have an average of eight hours sunshine each day and the glare makes it difficult to see. Plus, because our summer temperatures reach into the 40's°C
(104°F+) the blind, roof insulation and when very hot, the air-conditioner all help me to work all the year round. The final reason for closing the blind is that the lighting is so good, 8 x 4' tri-phosphor fluorescent tubes makes for consistently good photographs.
In spite of all the above, added light for setting up the router makes setting up so easy even for young people with perfect vision, let alone this 80 year old! Keep well my friend.


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

But Harry, you live in a post Rudd/Gillard/Rudd Australia - how in hell's name do you pay your electricity bill?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Living in Australia.....*



temper said:


> But Harry, you live in a post Rudd/Gillard/Rudd Australia - how in hell's name do you pay your electricity bill?


ROTFLAO....:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:


Don't get Harry started on greenhouse gasses ........


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

temper said:


> But Harry, you live in a post Rudd/Gillard/Rudd Australia - how in hell's name do you pay your electricity bill?


Fortunately we paid our own super. for all the many years that we were in business so the monthly payments supplemented by the age pension enable us to pay the average of $600.00 per two monthly electricity bill and the average $65.00 three monthly gas bill. I'm hoping, like no doubt you are that once the stupid Carbon tax is removed our bills will drop somewhat.


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Fortunately we paid our own super. for all the many years that we were in business so the monthly payments supplemented by the age pension enable us to pay the average of $600.00 per two monthly electricity bill and the average $65.00 three monthly gas bill. I'm hoping, like no doubt you are that once the stupid Carbon tax is removed our bills will drop somewhat.


There are three major components that result in our bills being so high - the carbon dioxide tax (~10%, the brain dead so-called schemes for energy efficiency and renewables (15% - 20%), and the cost of gold plated infrastructure upgrades (~50%) - these are for NSW but are similar elsewhere.

Incredibly the cost of generation and trading is only 20% of our bills.

The first two can be removed via political will, the third should be removed when the upgrades are complete.

The fly in the ointment is the way the electricity industry has become a market based retail/wholesale system - these "temporary" cost impositions have allowed retailers to "test" the market in terms of what price the market is prepared to bear - As a result I can't see prices coming down much without political intervention and I have absolutely no confidence at all in that happening. 


But I am now way off topic...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Gary, I think that you should subscribe to my thread on climate change which has had over 45,000 views.


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

Yes harry, I have long been a lurker there, I am also a subscriber of the ACM blog, and the NIPCC Web site. I have a copy of Bob Carter's "Taxing Air" beside me. Of course all that is only useful to help hold my own in an argument but I have found that logic and fact have no real effect on the dyed-in-the-wool alarmist - they have their religion and their prophets and no one is going to budge them - and government's, of course, love anything with the term "tax" (or synonym) in it. It'll be a hard slog and cost us dearly but eventually scientific fact and empirical evidence will crush them - too late for us though I am afraid.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I can't improve on what you've said Gary.


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## JimboH (Dec 19, 2013)

*thanks for a great thread and an education*

My first post. I have read the entire thread over the past few evenings. Now I have the info I need to make a set of skis. Thanks !


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

If you have any questions Jim, don't hesitate to ask. and welcome to the forum where no question is considered stupid.


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## DSF (May 10, 2014)

*Great Post*

This is a great idea. The only thing I would add, and maybe it's too obvious to mention, is that there's no need to thread the ends of the rod. If someone doesn't have access to a machine shop, they could use collars with set screws.

David


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

DSF said:


> This is a great idea. The only thing I would add, and maybe it's too obvious to mention, is that there's no need to thread the ends of the rod. If someone doesn't have access to a machine shop, they could use collars with set screws.
> 
> David


At the risk of sounding contrarian towards an otherwise excellent alternative I can assure you that, at least in Australia, collars with set screws are at least as hard to source, and probably more expensive (esp. after shipping). In fact I would go so far as to say it would be a cheaper alternative to buy a complete tap and die set and cut your own thread - it's not that difficult.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I believe Harry cut his thread on the lathe?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

DSF said:


> This is a great idea. The only thing I would add, and maybe it's too obvious to mention, is that there's no need to thread the ends of the rod. If someone doesn't have access to a machine shop, they could use collars with set screws.
> 
> David


One member, I forget which tried that method after Bobj3 suggested it and told me that it wasn't satisfactory.
For those without a lathe I produced this pdf of an alternative method.


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## temper (Sep 28, 2008)

Blimey, it's really quite eerie seeing something, which practically moments before was just a thought in one's mind, shown in such exquisite detail - well done once again Harry.

I am surprised I haven't seen that pdf before, otherwise I would have just pointed a link to it.

I was going to proffer the method of making collars out of nuts with the thread drilled out and a hole drilled in the side then tapped, but this pdf clearly shows the best way.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The reason that the collar isn't satisfactory, even as Bj originally showed it with springs is that plunging the router when setting the depth of cut places a great deal of pressure on the ski rods which, I'm told makes them slip down the slots in the end cheeks. I of course haven't tried the method but that's what I was told by someone who had.


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## whimsofchaz (Jun 6, 2013)

Harry you are just amazing. Great leadership on this entire thread. Thank you. :big_boss:


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Gee Chuck, I'm feeling myself blushing! Thank you.


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## 8jmwoodie (Jan 2, 2014)

nice


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## stevien (Jul 11, 2014)

Mathew,
Hello I would say by now your getting the much needed experience with your router, however there are some great router books out there to help you with jig making. I personally own both sets of wood working books from Time Life Books an use them as reference for jigs ect. Also to answer your question about the skis they are used to route straight lines in wood and make dados in wood too for shelves and piecing to boards together as well as many other uses Im sure like assisting in routing a precise straight edge as well as using the router to plain an otherwise warped or no level surface.
I hope this answers your questions and helps out a bit.
stevien


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## twinton (Jul 28, 2014)

Harry great post and a useful tool to add to the arsenal. I have been researching router sleds, planning sleds and until now they are all costly or complex, I love simple, affective tools and yours is my kind of tool, thanks fro sharing. 

I am looking to plane 2 in thick slabs of elm, 24 inches wide, can I build your tool to accomplishes this? II will also do a final sanding as well on the projects. I have looked at many bits as well to use for planning, from 1 inch to 2 1/2 inches and ranging from $20 to $250. While I do not think the $20 option is a good one I do not think I need the $250 option either. Any suggestions appreciated. 
vr
tw


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## eseck (Feb 19, 2011)

Very interesting. I am new to forum. 
Grateful for the tip, I will do to my router. 
hugs 
eseck - Porto Alegre - Brazil


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## almost there (Apr 12, 2011)

Thanks for providing information on your router skis. I have an old plunge base for a Bosch 1617 router motor. I do not have a lathe of any type (wood or metal), so I will have to find a machine shop that can build the rods, by your specifications. I have some shorter non-threaded rods for my router base attachments that I can measure to determine the required diameter for the ski rods. Your videos have been especially helpful to make me want to go ahead and try this method of making items such as your coin bowl, and maybe even other bowls. Up to now, most of my routing has been with motor router table, with my other Bosch 1617 motor installed a lift under the table. Lee


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/37666-threading-ski-rods-without-lathe-machine-vise.html?highlight=ski%27s Lee here is a link to a thread that may save you a trip to the machine shop.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thank you Jim, you saved me having to search that for that thread.
Here is another use when I had no other means of removing the dovetail from this turned bowl which was too big for my rather big bowl (that is big for me and my mini lathe)


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## Mayo.Mick (Sep 27, 2016)

Sorry for bringing up an old thread. Thanks a million for this brilliant info on making ski's Harry. Going to be making my first tomorrow hopefully. Have a project to do for a friend and I've been wracking me brain how to go about it. Using skis is just what I need!

I've a Hitachi MV12 but I can only get my hands on 1/2" threaded bar. I've 2 one metre lengths, wonder should I shorten them to 26" maybe?

Will post some photos when I get set up. Thanks again.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

1/2" may not fit Mick. I have an M12V and a V2 and both use 12mm rods for the edge guides. If you have access to Imperial size drill rod you could use the next size smaller than 12mm in Imperial equivalent. Drill rod comes in lots of sizes.


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## Mayo.Mick (Sep 27, 2016)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> 1/2" may not fit Mick. I have an M12V and a V2 and both use 12mm rods for the edge guides. If you have access to Imperial size drill rod you could use the next size smaller than 12mm in Imperial equivalent. Drill rod comes in lots of sizes.


I may have said the wrong size, I tried the rods with the router yesterday when I got them. They fit OK, although a slight bit of play in them. Should be OK I think with the locking pins on the router tightened. These will do for now anyway, I'll be on the lookout for some round bar.


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## Wood1Hawk (Dec 7, 2016)

Wonderfully helpful, thanks very much Harry


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## Mayo.Mick (Sep 27, 2016)

Mayo.Mick said:


> Sorry for bringing up an old thread. Thanks a million for this brilliant info on making ski's Harry. Going to be making my first tomorrow hopefully. Have a project to do for a friend and I've been wracking me brain how to go about it. Using skis is just what I need!
> 
> I've a Hitachi MV12 but I can only get my hands on 1/2" threaded bar. I've 2 one metre lengths, wonder should I shorten them to 26" maybe?
> 
> Will post some photos when I get set up. Thanks again.


Well, I got my first set of skis made today! Bit rough and ready but I'll see how they go. I'll get some pics up later, have to dash out to our camera club meeting.


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## Mayo.Mick (Sep 27, 2016)

*My First Set Of Skis*

Well, here's my first attempt at making a set of skis. Made out of some scrap 6" x 1". Made the slots slightly longer on one for some reason....


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

They look great, all that you need now are four fender washers. 1/2" (12.7mm) rods will not fit into 12mm holes! I look forward to seeing future projects using the skis. As for the wrong length slot, you are by no means the only one who makes mistakes, look at shot 16 in the pdf and the following shots which show how I fixed it, you too will surely find a way to fix your problem.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I don't have the resources to mill rod and put threads on it like you did . Wish they sold rod already threaded like that . Or what if the rod did not go threw the routers base , but you uses much bigger sturdier rod on a seperate base that connected to the routers base? 
I'm thinking if you need a sled over 4' long for doing tables


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## Mayo.Mick (Sep 27, 2016)

I got 2 lengths of 12mm threaded bar from my local hardware. They were 1 metre long, put it together but was a bit too long and the weight of my Hitachi was making it sag in the middle. Cut the bars down to 600mm and seems to be grand now, good and solid. I'll try wing nuts for the ends when I get get my hands on some. There was none in stock when I was buying the threaded bar.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Looks good Mick.


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

harrysin said:


> They look great, all that you need now are four fender washers. 1/2" (12.7mm) rods will not fit into 12mm holes! I look forward to seeing future projects using the skis. As for the wrong length slot, you are by no means the only one who makes mistakes, look at shot 16 in the pdf and the following shots which show how I fixed it, you too will surely find a way to fix your problem.


HELLO Harry!!! I've been off for a while, and its great to see you!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You too Jack, I've often wondered how your business is going, also if you ever got that wood lathe up and going.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> I don't have the resources to mill rod and put threads on it like you did . Wish they sold rod already threaded like that . Or what if the rod did not go threw the routers base , but you uses much bigger sturdier rod on a seperate base that connected to the routers base?
> I'm thinking if you need a sled over 4' long for doing tables


Unfortunately Rick the cost of an air ticket to get you over here to stand beside me whilst I made you a pair of rods would be prohibitive, as would I think the cost of postage. Perhaps with the aid of this pdf you'll be able to thread the ends of rods.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mayo.Mick said:


> I got 2 lengths of 12mm threaded bar from my local hardware. They were 1 metre long, put it together but was a bit too long and the weight of my Hitachi was making it sag in the middle. Cut the bars down to 600mm and seems to be grand now, good and solid. I'll try wing nuts for the ends when I get get my hands on some. There was none in stock when I was buying the threaded bar.


WOW Michael, what a great job, the final touch is to put a strip of iron-on edging strip on the bottom edges which will enable the skis to slide easier, but not too slippy or the assembly will attempt to take control, a small amount of friction is essential. Happy skiing Michael.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> I don't have the resources to mill rod and put threads on it like you did . Wish they sold rod already threaded like that . Or what if the rod did not go threw the routers base , but you uses much bigger sturdier rod on a seperate base that connected to the routers base?
> I'm thinking if you need a sled over 4' long for doing tables


Quite a few members have made their own versions of router skis where rods through the router holes were not required. A search of the forum will bring up such threads. Considering that the skis are controlled by the end cheeks, NOT the router itself, I think that having your arms spread 4' will soon cause fatigue!
Just a thought, a large table will almost certainly be made from separate boards and they will be thicknessed either with the skis or a thickness/planer prior to gluing followed by sanding.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I've never made skis yet but I was thinking that I might use drill rod for them. It's pretty tough stuff and isn't that expensive compared to some other rods I've seen. Drill rod would be pretty hard to thread I suspect so another alternative would be to take some larger mild steel rod, say 3/4 to 1" and drill the hole through about a 1"/ 25 mm length of it for the drill rod to slide through and then cross drill and tap it for a set bolt. A set of those would allow you to set the rods any distance apart you wish without the need to thread them.

Another thing I would do differently is not slot the end plates. You have to have both rods level at all 4 corners to stay level with the router. I would take the end plates and drill holes on a drill press against a fence. The fence would guarantee that all 4 holes are at exactly the same distance from the bottom of the plates. Then move the fence back away from the bit about 3/4 to 1"/ 19-25mm and drill another set, etc. Each successive set of holes would also be exactly on the same plane. The router's depth adjustment takes care of anything in between.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I look forward to seeing if your idea for the rods actually works out in practice Charles. As for the holes rather than slots, over the years I have made quick skis for specific jobs using holes made as you describe


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Harry , the only reason I did mention 4' router skis is the owner of our local WP store makes these huge tables from one slab of wood which require a huge amount of routing to plane it flat .
The outcome is truely amazing , and other than a router and skis , I don't know how else a person could plane a slab of wood 12'/4' .
In reality though , 4 ' of reach is not something I will require hopefully


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I wonder Rick if factories that make such tables, and there are many, have LARGE, BIG, GARGANTUAN drum sanders!


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## Wildman692 (Dec 12, 2016)

Excellent idea finally made it across the pond, another to add to my growing "to do" list many thanks. Merry Christmas - Appropriate seasons greetings everyone.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

harrysin said:


> I wonder Rick if factories that make such tables, and there are many, have LARGE, BIG, GARGANTUAN drum sanders!


I had a chance to buy one once cheap Harry. The belt was I think 3 or 4' wide and it went around rollers near the ceiling and you held the platen in your hand and applied pressure onto the back side of the belt to sand. It was in a defunct door making factory. I can't remember how long the belt was and that was at least 40 years ago but I would guess it was 50' anyway.


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

harrysin said:


> You too Jack, I've often wondered how your business is going, also if you ever got that wood lathe up and going.


Construction business is very good, wood working not so much. Still trying though! No on the lathe. I really haven't done anything with it in a couple of years.


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