# Bosch 1617EVS



## ccmnova (Nov 4, 2009)

New to the site. I have two Bosch 1617 EVS. One is mounted in an old but heavy duty router table. The other I use with the plunge base. I have an additional fixed base and want to mount it to the underside of an old work table I have just for cutting raised panels with the horizontal bits. I have been using vertical raised panel bits in the old router table with a high fence I custom made and its OK - but I'd like to have a separate station only for raised panels and one where I could use the horizontal bits (my old table is made out of aluminum and the center hole is only 2.5 inches max.

What's the best way to mount the fixed base to the underside of a heavy table (1 inch thick pressed board with laminate top) - will I have to recess the underside is is the thickness OK. Also, what hole dia would be suggested to accommodate horizontal raised panel bits. For the fence, I am thinking of just clamping a piece in place when needed.

Thanks for any help you can offer !


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

Welcome aboard


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Hello Henry,
Pressed trash is not going to last long, if there is any humidity in your shop. You can seal all sides, that will help a little. MDF is a better choice. I would suggest you get the 20.00 plate from HF. They are on sale pretty often. You get a set of inserts with it. A one inch table eats up a lot of needed depth.


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

I put a HF in a 1-1/2" thick table;
Got help from bj3 & others here, worked & is working fine
link:
Router Forums - View Single Post - AK router table/stand progress
Others may chime in with ideas also

link to whole table build #9 is the above page: http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/10305-ak-router-table-stand-progress.html#post87124


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## ccmnova (Nov 4, 2009)

Ok this may be a dumb question - what is "HF" ?

I saw 3/4 inch MDF at Lowes for $25 for a 4 x 8 sheet. Is MDF suitable as is or does it need to be sealed and the top laminated ?


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

ccmnova said:


> Ok this may be a dumb question - what is "HF" ?
> 
> I saw 3/4 inch MDF at Lowes for $25 for a 4 x 8 sheet. Is MDF suitable as is or does it need to be sealed and the top laminated ?


 i'd say laminate it, without laminate, if you get a drop of water on it, it'll bubble up there, like say a bead of sweat, or a drink whatever. also, the wood will slide much easier over laminate.


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## Kenman101 (May 24, 2009)

I would use an router table insert and MDF. One thing to note with the bosch. If you cut a lot of mdf, the dust clogs the power switch. The router will sometimes turn on and sometimes not. A little compressed air and your good to go.


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## ccmnova (Nov 4, 2009)

You're right about the switch - should be covered. I love the Bosch though - it's a great router and that's why I have two. My old 1617 evs sound "different" than the new one - the new one is quieter and a much better soft start.


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## ccmnova (Nov 4, 2009)

Now I had a thought - is a plate even necessary for a router like the 1617 evs which comes out of the base easily and can be switched from base to base ? Why couldn't I just have a hole in the table top and fit the base to the underside without a plate at all ? Would need some kind of ring spacers and some way to mount them - also, I'm not sure of the mounting thickness limit if this would be a detriment to the height adjustment.


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

ccmnova said:


> Now I had a thought - is a plate even necessary for a router like the 1617 evs which comes out of the base easily and can be switched from base to base ? Why couldn't I just have a hole in the table top and fit the base to the underside without a plate at all ? Would need some kind of ring spacers and some way to mount them - also, I'm not sure of the mounting thickness limit if this would be a detriment to the height adjustment.


 if you mount it right to the top, you're going to lose the table thickness in height adjustment.. a router plate is only 1/4" thick. if you routed the table top to 1/4" thick, and mounted it to that, it would be dangerous, and the router could break loose.. so it's better to use a router plate.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

ccmnova said:


> Ok this may be a dumb question - what is "HF" ?
> 
> I saw 3/4 inch MDF at Lowes for $25 for a 4 x 8 sheet. Is MDF suitable as is or does it need to be sealed and the top laminated ?


Henry, HF = www.harborfreight.com


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

router table plate: $20 @ Harbor Freight

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings and welcome to the router forum. Thank you for joining us. Not much to add to what has been said.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the RouterForums Henry.


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## ccmnova (Nov 4, 2009)

I juat wanted a set-up for raised panels. Some plates are 3/8, so going another 1/8 or so shouldn;t be too bad - I'll check the height limitations with some scrap.


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## Mt-Pockets (Sep 9, 2009)

Now I thought that the "Switch" Problem has been taken care of with the 1617.... When I bought mine a couple of months ago, I called Bosch direct.. and they told me that they have upgraded their switches.. I've cut a lot of MDF and Soo far I haven't experienced this issue..


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## ccmnova (Nov 4, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> Henry, HF = www.harborfreight.com


Thanks - That plate from harbor freight looks pretty nice - it's 3/8 phenolic. How are the magnets used in this plate ?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a butt in post ,,,,you don't need them for the plate, just put them to one side and use them for some box latches or doors..just drill a small holes put in some glue and you have the latch installed.. 

To install the magnet as latches,,drill a 1/16" hole cut off a brad nail,push it in the hole close the lid with care and you have a mark to drill the other hole for the magnet latch..must be just a little bit above the edge of the wood.. 


=======


ccmnova said:


> Thanks - That plate from harbor freight looks pretty nice - it's 3/8 phenolic. How are the magnets used in this plate ?


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## DougA (Jan 30, 2008)

Mt-Pockets said:


> Now I thought that the "Switch" Problem has been taken care of with the 1617.... When I bought mine a couple of months ago, I called Bosch direct.. and they told me that they have upgraded their switches.. I've cut a lot of MDF and Soo far I haven't experienced this issue..


I thought so too, I bought the 1617evs spring 2008, hobbyist use (low)
Yet the switch failed this summer. Others have said that you can blow it out and good to go. Mine shows pitting and burning, (and totally full of dust).
So I'm not so sure this is "upgraded", at least the old ones could be "fixed".

The good news is Bosch sent out a new switch.


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## ccmnova (Nov 4, 2009)

I just ordered the HF plate. I'm planning to cut the hole out 8 x 11 with a jigsaw for the 9 x 12 plate, and then use the plate itself to mount guides to cut the 3/8 recess with a 1/2 inch guide bearing bit. My table is 3/4 inch. This would leave only a 3/8 lip however I could strengthen it with some steel plate flats screwed and glued to the underside of this lip -


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## CASparky (Oct 14, 2004)

ccmnova said:


> I just ordered the HF plate. I'm planning to cut the hole out 8 x 11 with a jigsaw for the 9 x 12 plate, and then use the plate itself to mount guides to cut the 3/8 recess with a 1/2 inch guide bearing bit. My table is 3/4 inch. This would leave only a 3/8 lip however I could strengthen it with some steel plate flats screwed and glued to the underside of this lip -


Hi Henry,

Re your concern of table thickness, it had been suggested to myself to run 1 x 2 or 1 x 4 around the table opening. I screwed and glued said 1 x 2's to the underside, keeping the face flush with the opening and the screws outside the recess (in full thickness stock).
One could get fancy and run opposite sides longer and inlet the cross pieces into same...

Cheers, Lou


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## ccmnova (Nov 4, 2009)

That sounds like some good advice - I'll strengthen that lip from the underside.


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## boaks (Nov 24, 2009)

HF is "harbor freight"


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## GreggZ (Dec 30, 2009)

I've had nothing but frustration with my Bosch EVS routers. The switches only work for a few minutes and then get dust in them and quit working. I've tried the supposed "new improved" versions of replacement switches but they are garbage and last only a few uses before failing. The danger appears the a non working switch could be left in the on position and the router could suddenly just start. I would carefully re-consider before continuing to use such a dangerous tool or at least always unplug it when not actually routing with it.


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