# Demo of router skis



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I used the router and skis for the first time today to plane the boards for my Lazy Susan (in progress).

As I tried to video the efforts, I decided to post this short video on Youtube.

As you can see, I tried two methods.
1. sliding the router on the rods.
2. using the cheeks to guide the router.

Thanks very much to Harry for gifting the skis....:sold:

Using router skis demo1 - YouTube

Now, I wonder if I can buy another router to leave on the skis........ROTFL...


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## crowie (Apr 14, 2011)

Thanks James for the "demo",
Is there a pattern on the Router Forum for the "Skies", please, thank you.
Cheers, crowie


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## pretender74 (May 27, 2011)

Thanks for the demo. Now i can make a new usefull toy for my shop. Gary/Florida


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Thanks James--did you find any difference in results using the sliding versus cheeks method? The "cheeky method" looked like you had more control, but was it as good for the wood?

I sourced some ash recently that is beautiful, but the rough saw is horrible so i was going to build a set of skis to get it prepped for the planer. Seeing your video, i'm thinking that i might just be able to thickness it with the router as well.

Also--i'm thinking that i may do 2 or 3 lengths of rods. (and maybe a separate router to dedicate to each set of rods?? i like the way you think!!)

Thanks again.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Router skis*



crowie said:


> Thanks James for the "demo",
> Is there a pattern on the Router Forum for the "Skies", please, thank you.
> Cheers, crowie


Hi Peter,

If you check the top of the home page, there is a tab for some router forum videos.

Harry has done a slideshow with audio on making my set of skis.

Here it is on Youtube:
http://youtu.be/GNhlETbscUMadd link


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

greenacres2 said:


> Thanks James--did you find any difference in results using the sliding versus cheeks method? The "cheeky method" looked like you had more control, but was it as good for the wood?
> 
> I sourced some ash recently that is beautiful, but the rough saw is horrible so i was going to build a set of skis to get it prepped for the planer. Seeing your video, i'm thinking that i might just be able to thickness it with the router as well.
> 
> ...


Hi Earl, the cheek method is preferred by my mentor (???) and does give more control.

On my first attempt to plane my lazy susan, the rods were too short to use the cheek method.

I just tried the first method to see how it went.


Check out the video from Harry as mentioned to Peter.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

sorry, maybe i missed it somewhere, but could you please describe what you mean by the "cheek" method? 

Is that the first way you were using it in the video where you kept the skis stationary and slid the router back and forth on the bars?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Earl, the cheek method is preferred by my mentor (???) and does give more control.
> 
> On my first attempt to plane my lazy susan, the rods were too short to use the cheek method.
> 
> ...


James, I've made three attempts to post a full answer whick included a single photo. and each time I click "submit reply" I lose the lot, so I'm giving up for tonight and hopefully the problem will be resolved by tomorrow.


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## BikerJim (Jul 16, 2012)

This is a nice idea..the 'cheeky' method is the second one I think, it'd be good for roughing down an uneven board (or even twisted perhaps..?) to an approximate size before finishing off with a plane.

Maybe you might find it better mounting the workpiece on a 4x8 melamine faced board perhaps, the cheeks would slide more easily; it seems a little sticky/bumpy.. but it certainly is a nice idea, thanks Harry and James for the inspiration...

Cheers
Jim


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Jim, using router ski's is like milling the wood, the surface usually does not require any further actions.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

BikerJim said:


> This is a nice idea..the 'cheeky' method is the second one I think, it'd be good for roughing down an uneven board (or even twisted perhaps..?) to an approximate size before finishing off with a plane.
> 
> Maybe you might find it better mounting the workpiece on a 4x8 melamine faced board perhaps, the cheeks would slide more easily; it seems a little sticky/bumpy.. but it certainly is a nice idea, thanks Harry and James for the inspiration...
> 
> ...


Hi Jim, 100% agree that it would be smoother on a piece of melamine faced ply or a piece of mdf.

I just removed the sacrificial piece of 1/4" ply from my bench and used the ply bench top for this quick demonstration.

Harry had used heat adhesive edging on the bottom runners to help make it smoother.


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## Mdawson (Mar 25, 2012)

Thanks James

Grasshopper now understands what these ski thingys are all about 

Mark


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Jim, 100% agree that it would be smoother on a piece of melamine faced ply or a piece of mdf.
> 
> I just removed the sacrificial piece of 1/4" ply from my bench and used the ply bench top for this quick demonstration.
> 
> Harry had used heat adhesive edging on the bottom runners to help make it smoother.


Your video James was first class, the resolution Hi-def. Just a couple of points, sliding the router along the rods defeats the great mechanical advantage afforded when operating the system by the end cheeks, plus it can't do much good for the holes in the router base!
Planing is as you know, not the only use for the ski set-up as shown in so many of my past photo-shoots and freehand signs become so easy. I have found over the years that some friction is desirable so that the assembly doesn't try to run away. Most of the time I use a large sheet of cheap chipboard clipped to my router table which affords that friction between the bottom of the ski ends, which, as you've mentioned has iron-on edging strip and the chipboard.
For the benefit of new-comers I'll repeat what I've often said, and that is the skis, like many other tools will not be used every day or every week, BUT, when used they will usually perform an operation faster and easier and so often complete a task that would be difficult or even impossible to do by other means.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Chris Curl said:


> sorry, maybe i missed it somewhere, but could you please describe what you mean by the "cheek" method?
> 
> Is that the first way you were using it in the video where you kept the skis stationary and slid the router back and forth on the bars?


Hi Chris,

If you have not worked it out yet, we are referring to the white end pieces as the 'cheeks'.

This was the second method I used.

The operator hold on to these end pieces instead of holding on to the router. This allows for very fine movement of the router, especially, as Harry showed for making freehand signs.

If the operator holds the normal router handles, there is a possibility of small downward deflection of the router.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Harry has posted some excellent instructions for building ski jigs as well as their use. BJ (Bobj3) has come up with some other methods to produce the jigs. Not everyone has the ability to make the steel rails like Harry does so I came up with the solution of using plywood and furniture hanger bolts to replace the steel rails. I will post a photo shoot of how BrianS and I built this version soon.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

mike, i like that approach very much, because it mitigates the problem of sagging for those of us who have routers that take narrow rods. my router, the cheapest ryobi made, takes 3/8" rods and would be prone to sagging when used with long bolts.

i will probably convert mine to use that approach. thanks for sharing it.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Just noticed a couple of items that will be changed next time.

1. In the first method, it appears that I am making a climb cut. (I did that so the cutter would not flick out the wedge.)
2. I will remove the Oak Park base plate to allow a larger opening in the base. Better view and chip clearance.
3. Will find a more accurate way to set the height of the rods above the table. Harry, I believe, uses a micrometer?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I set up the plywood ski jig using steel 1,2,3 blocks.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> Just noticed a couple of items that will be changed next time.
> 
> 1. In the first method, it appears that I am making a climb cut. (I did that so the cutter would not flick out the wedge.)
> 2. I will remove the Oak Park base plate to allow a larger opening in the base. Better view and chip clearance.
> 3. Will find a more accurate way to set the height of the rods above the table. Harry, I believe, uses a micrometer?


Using the skis by the end cheeks allows the router to move in any and every direction whilst under the complete control of the operator.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Thanks harry.

PS; does the 3600BR have the same spacing as the 3612C?

Might be able to pick up one at Cash Converters.....


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Identical James, it is less powerful than the 3612C and is fixed speed but I find it just fine permanently on the skis.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Good job on the video James.


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## pretender74 (May 27, 2011)

Harrysin is like drug. He must have been in the teaching proffesion prior to retirement.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Only for one term Gary, when the regular night school electronics teacher decided not to turn up that term.
Whilst my short term memory is getting worse by the day, I clearly remember the sort of questions I used to ask about wood and metalworking and assume that there are many others out there who would like to ask similar questions, also I'm a great believer in the saying "a picture is worth a thousand words"


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