# my first box :) teak accent corners



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

I was searching ebay for wood, and kept seeing these pretty pen blanks of all types of wood. and thought they'd be cool for corners of a box. they are 3/4" square and 6" long. When i cut them in half they are pefect for corners and extend for little stubby legs. I chose to contrast it with a lighter wood(pine). I measured, cut and routed out for the box bottom. I plan to make a sliding lid with a cribbage board lid. 
can't do anything at the moment because i'm waiting for the delivery/arrival of my table saw!  so excited!!!

i'm going to drill holes and connect them with dowel pins. not sure if i want to do it blind, or make the dowel pin circles show on the teak piece.
i'll also need to chisel out the inside corner of the teak square where the bottom board will be.


----------



## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

great idea Stephanie they should look nice when completed


----------



## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

I kept looking at the stock of exotic wood pen blanks at the local lumberyard just wondering how I could use a few of them. Thanks Stephanie

Oh and please show us your finished product. The mock up sure looks good.


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

IC31 said:


> I kept looking at the stock of exotic wood pen blanks at the local lumberyard just wondering how I could use a few of them. Thanks Stephanie
> 
> Oh and please show us your finished product. The mock up sure looks good.


yes, i'm excited, thinking of many many things i can do with them. love creating my own plans


----------



## BCK (Feb 23, 2014)

sweet idea......


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

_"not sure if i want to do it blind, or make the dowel pin circles show on the teak piece."_
If you're conducting a poll, I'm voting for the plugs; I just like the look.


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> _"not sure if i want to do it blind, or make the dowel pin circles show on the teak piece."_
> If you're conducting a poll, I'm voting for the plugs; I just like the look.


I like the look to. Thats what im doing. Will post finished pics soon

This is the bottom side up. The front piece is smaller than the sides because im making a sliding lid.


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

*Dry fit*

This is what i did. Ill have the dowl pins flush with box edge


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Very clever idea!


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

Ok. Instead of saying "i stink at making boxes" i will say, i've learned
A lot of lessons with this project. 
Dont use glue until you are ready, dont drill holes through the corners until you are sure
The box fits perfectly together, dont feed wood in back of the router bit, dont mash your thumb with the rubber mallet, when you are
frustrated, walk away and eat some chocolate...and table saws are awesome! 

May be trying the miter spline joints tomorrow.


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

Another pic


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

sjonesphoto said:


> Another pic


i know that front corner has some issues, i prefer to call it character.


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Steph...

as long as you've learned something, had fun along the way and can't wait to get back at it... 

life is good!!


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

sjonesphoto said:


> Ok. Instead of saying "i stink at making boxes" i will say, i've learned
> A lot of lessons with this project.
> Dont use glue until you are ready, dont drill holes through the corners until you are sure
> The box fits perfectly together, dont feed wood in back of the router bit, dont mash your thumb with the rubber mallet, when you are
> ...



hahaha, some good lessons there.

Also great suggestion on the pen blanks...


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

*cribbage sliding lid*

ok, this is so far. i had to add more dowel pins. MUCH easier to do when box is glued together and tight. - if i had done this originally it would
be fit together flawlessly. (lesson learned)
Made the cribbage top, now I have to cut it so it can slide in. I also have to route out the groove for the lid into the teak corners.
i may use a round over bit on the 4 teak corners, and maybe something around the top. not sure.


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

sjonesphoto said:


> ok, this is so far. i had to add more dowel pins. MUCH easier to do when box is glued together and tight. - if i had done this originally it would
> be fit together flawlessly. (lesson learned)
> Made the cribbage top, now I have to cut it so it can slide in. I also have to route out the groove for the lid into the teak corners.
> i may use a round over bit on the 4 teak corners, and maybe something around the top. not sure.


i missed a few holes.  i'll have to drill those.


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

*almost done*

ok, so i routed the slit better to fit the sliding lid. then glued an extra piece of wood on the end of the lid to give the user something to grip.
then i routed around the top edges of the whole box with a roundover bit, but leaving a small lip at the top. in routing, the glued corners came apart in two areas.
i'm guessing dowel pins aren't the way to go.  i'm disappointed because they look so nice. 

i may have just drilled the holes too loose. using a 1/4" bit, and a 1/4" dowelpin.

waiting for the corners to dry again so I can then sand entire and stain or poly.

disappointed in the tearing up of the holes (again, even moving slow w/ the drill press and a new bit.) i'm going to try putting poly on the next one before drilling and seeing if that helps).

also next time i'm going to glue the corners and let it dry, BEFORE drilling the holes for the dowel pins.
thank you everyone for the advice. I appreciate all who helped w/ my project! 
:moil:


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

*pics*



sjonesphoto said:


> ok, so i routed the slit better to fit the sliding lid. then glued an extra piece of wood on the end of the lid to give the user something to grip.
> then i routed around the top edges of the whole box with a roundover bit, but leaving a small lip at the top. in routing, the glued corners came apart in two areas.
> i'm guessing dowel pins aren't the way to go.  i'm disappointed because they look so nice.
> 
> ...


i guess pics would be helpful.


----------



## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Stephanie - I would suggest that you try a Forstner bit to drill 'clean' holes. Individual Standard Forstner Bits, High Carbon Steel-Standard Forstner Bits - 3/8" Shank - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Even Harbor Freigh have a set but some of their tools quality is lower then suspect.

Brad point drills are also a good way to drill a fairly clean hole: Buy MILESCRAFT 7-Piece Fractional Brad Point Drill Bit Set, Milescraft# 1812 at Woodcraft.com

A standard 118* wood/metal drill bit can not cut wood cleanly. Take a look at the point and you will understand why. The point will chisel into the wood with the rest of the cutting edge following. When it gets to the outer edge, all that it can do then is dig in and the wood chip follows the grain and rips out a chunk.


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

IC31 said:


> Stephanie - I would suggest that you try a Forstner bit to drill 'clean' holes. Individual Standard Forstner Bits, High Carbon Steel-Standard Forstner Bits - 3/8" Shank - Rockler Woodworking Tools
> 
> Even Harbor Freigh have a set but some of their tools quality is lower then suspect.
> 
> ...


Thanks dave. Do they make forstner bits for 1/8" holes? Imm look. Thanks!!


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Is your drill bit dull? Where are you getting tear out, on the top or bottom? How and what are you using to drill the holes?

Great project Stephanie I like your design and the added pull you added to help slide the cribbage board out.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Re brad point drill bits...
HSS Lipped Brad-Point Drills - Lee Valley Tools


----------



## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Stephanie - the smallest Forstner's I've seen are 1/4" - it would be tough and expensive to sharpen anything really small for a very limited use group. Smaller - then 1/4", then you would use brad point. With a standard twist drill, it will be hard to not have some tear out though with the smallest sizes, less - regardless of how sharp, including new. A note - the big box stores seem to carry some 'brad' points with a kinda spade tip (mostly DeWalt) which haven't worked as well for me as the sharp pointed type.


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Is your drill bit dull? Where are you getting tear out, on the top or bottom? How and what are you using to drill the holes?
> 
> Great project Stephanie I like your design and the added pull you added to help slide the cribbage board out.


No brand new bit. Drilling through slowly with a drill press. Using a backing board. Tear out happening on top and underneath.


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Hmmmm is it a brad point? Is it a good quality one? Never heard of tear out on a new bit.


----------



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Hmmmm is it a brad point? Is it a good quality one? Never heard of tear out on a new bit.


dewalt titanium split point 1/8" is that my prob? that its not brad point?


----------

