# Jewelry box side bit



## charmon (Jul 8, 2014)

I have never used a jewelry box side bit with top bearing. What is the proper way to use it? Thanks in advance for your help.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

charmon said:


> I have never used a jewelry box side bit with top bearing. What is the proper way to use it? Thanks in advance for your help.


specifically which bit do you have???


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

charmon said:


> I have never used a jewelry box side bit with top bearing. What is the proper way to use it? Thanks in advance for your help.


see if this .PDF helps any...


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## charmon (Jul 8, 2014)

Thanks Stick. I guess I should have been more specific. How do I run the boards against the bit as the cut side will be both concave and convex. How do I keep the piece vertical? Is it best to run a longer board or cut the pieces to size first ?


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## charmon (Jul 8, 2014)

The bit is yonico 18234


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

charmon said:


> Thanks Stick. I guess I should have been more specific. How do I run the boards against the bit as the cut side will be both concave and convex. How do I keep the piece vertical? Is it best to run a longer board or cut the pieces to size first ?


longer board...
router table, run the board against the fence w/ feather boards......
no matter how hard you try free-handing that big of a profile will be a challenge and not to mention dangerous...

you know you can use crown molding in conjunction w/ other profiles instead of cutting your own profiles and go exotic at the same time... 
there are a passel of crown molding profiles...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

charmon said:


> The bit is yonico 18234



router table for sure...


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## denis lock (Oct 26, 2007)

*Using face moulding bits*

I keep the workpiece vertical by using a sled. I mould long lengths and the cut to length afterwards. I hold the workpiece to the sled by screws from the sled. Be careful of placement - you don't want to rout through the tip of a screw. If screw holes are a problem I use pieces which are longer than need and screw into waste which will be trimmed later.

The sled shown in the attached picture is made from 16mm MDF.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

denisl said:


> I keep the workpiece vertical by using a sled. I mould long lengths and the cut to length afterwards. I hold the workpiece to the sled by screws from the sled. Be careful of placement - you don't want to rout through the tip of a screw. If screw holes are a problem I use pieces which are longer than need and screw into waste which will be trimmed later.
> 
> The sled shown in the attached picture is made from 16mm MDF.


or install a keeper on the sled...


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## charmon (Jul 8, 2014)

Thanks denisl Would double sided tape be an option? I assume that you would make multiple passes for a bit as in your picture.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

denisl said:


> I keep the workpiece vertical by using a sled. I mould long lengths and the cut to length afterwards. I hold the workpiece to the sled by screws from the sled. Be careful of placement - you don't want to rout through the tip of a screw. If screw holes are a problem I use pieces which are longer than need and screw into waste which will be trimmed later.
> 
> The sled shown in the attached picture is made from 16mm MDF.


Great explanation and photo for details Denis


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## denis lock (Oct 26, 2007)

I am conservative and prefer the 'positive' holding power of screws. My sled is pre-drilled so it is no big deal to attach the piece being moulded with screws. Good quality double-sided should work.

Multiple passes - most definitely!

Denis Lock - "Routing with Denis"


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## twallace (Jan 15, 2012)

Denis,
I was reading this post and coincindentally I was trying out my newly purchase bit yonico 18234 and had problems.so I was to make some shims then I read your post and that my friend was the answer. I made your sled and used screws and boy , it worked like a charm. safe, and quick. many thanks...very many thanks and quite timely.
tom


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

twallace said:


> Denis,
> I was reading this post and coincindentally I was trying out my newly purchase bit yonico 18234 and had problems.so I was to make some shims then I read your post and that my friend was the answer. I made your sled and used screws and boy , it worked like a charm. safe, and quick. many thanks...very many thanks and quite timely.
> tom


I am glad you posted this thread, I often thought about how to route the profile vertically.
Herb


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

denisl said:


> I am conservative and prefer the 'positive' holding power of screws. My sled is pre-drilled so it is no big deal to attach the piece being moulded with screws. Good quality double-sided should work.
> 
> Multiple passes - most definitely!
> 
> Denis Lock - "Routing with Denis"


Your responses are helpful and to the point. But, WOW!!!! You were recognized as a woodworker at 13?? I think you speak of experience.
I'm not sure but don't know why youu can't post a link to your website. Very enjoyable and well made.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

This funky featherboard was used milling window casing, chair rail and crown molding. I have seen a video (where I can't remember cause I have CRAFT Disease) where am out side fence, like the sled above, was clamped to the table. I have not tried it yet Is it a safe idea?


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