# Planing with a Router



## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

I've lost it - Having no planer, I'm tired of using the belt sander for thickness planing, not to mention the swirling dust - I know I saw a jig or setup for floating a router over material for thickness planing but now I can't put my finger on it - anybody got a link or plans for that?


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Basically, build a beefy sled to hold your router, making sure that you have more than the width of the stock you're planing on each side of the router. Then you need two supports of exactly the same height for each side of the stock you're planing. Then using a bowl bottom bit or a planing bit (the bigger the better) take light passes. You will probably still need a little bit of sanding when done. 

If you use curved supports, you can use the same sort of technique to hollow out shallow chair seats, etc.

American woodworkers woodworking with the router has an example of this jig.

IT IS SLOW AND TAKES A LOT OF PATIENCE-- IT ALSO MAKES A MESS. But if you have complicated grain patterns, etc, the router does a great job.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Gilbear
I have saw one also but I don't recall where,but I had to LOL when it saw it.
The router can do many things but using for a thickness planing maybe a hard one.

You may want to look around for plans for a belt sander (16" wide belt)
I was going to make one and found all the parts I needed like the parts from a use conveyor belt (made to move boxes up 3ft high lift) from a scrap yard for 25.oo bucks.
With alum.drums and vbelt drive.
Then I sold all the parts to a mate and he made one, DAM and it worked great.

Just a thought
Bj


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

BJ - I saw a plan for making the sander like you mentioned recently but, wow, it looked complicated - other problem I have is very limited space, with emphasis on very (maybe I should just get rid of a car!) - but appreciate the suggestion and will look at that again.
Doug - What you're describing sounds like the kind of thing I was thinking of - seemed pretty simple - maybe I'll just play around with that idea a bit and see what materializes - I KNOW I saw a jig plan somewhere - with all the links I've got, you'd think I could hit it - curved sled sounds interesting too!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Gilbear
Just a note.
Cars need to use the floor but some tools can be hung from the rafters and then pulled down in to place when you need to use them.
Garage door springs work great for this type of job. (the old type 2 " dia.ones) or a pull down ladder type setup.
"it looked complicated" but it's not.
Belt sanders are not cheap as you know.

Have a good one.
Bj


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## labric (Sep 11, 2004)

Gilbear

The Mar/Apr edition Vol. 15 Issue 86 of Shopnotes has an interesting project on *" How To Build Your Own Thickness Sander "* which would solve your dilema.

I've been eyeing this article since I first read about it, and it is on my things to build list, when I get the opportunity. It looks fairly simple and can be modified to operate on its own power source. ( In the article, they are using a table saw as the workbench and to power the drum sander )

You can see a picture of it by going to *www.shopnotes.com * website or going to the following:

http://www.shopnotes.com/main/86-thicknessSander.html

If you have some time, this may be your answer and it can be built economically, using odds and ends you probably have kicking around the shop. LOL

Check it out!!!

 Ric


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

OK folks, you're gettin me thinkin again - thanks! I will take a look at the Thickness sander again - and look at my rafters in a new way too - right now they're my materials storage - both above and racks hanging below.
I still want to play with the planer jig as well though.
Any more options, folks?
BJ, how fast was your buddy's sander able to take down stock? That is the plan that looked complicated to me, but maybe I'm just overly simple!


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

Hi Gilbear
I just couldn't do much without my planer!
Here's what you were looking for, it's pretty basic:
http://www.leestyron.com/sled.php 

~Julie~


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Ric

That one looks good 
Here's a link to the PDF file.(layout/cutting details)
http://www.shopnotes.com/main/pdf/086-thickness-sander.pdf

I just may try this one.(quick and easy one)
Thanks
Bj


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## labric (Sep 11, 2004)

Gilbear

Here's what you are looking for!!   

The Vol. 4 Issue 21 of Shopnotes has a 4 page an article titled *" Router Thicknessing Jig "* which uses the router to plane boards on a adjustable platform bed similar to that mentioned by Doug with a few modifications.

Modifications include a clamping system, adjustable width up to 15-3/4" wide, and carriage support for the router.

They use a 1" dia. 1/2 ' shank bottom cleaning bit to achieve the cut.

If you don't have that issue, I'll see if I can somehow copy this article and email it to you. _(You didn't hear that, right??)_

 Ric


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

Ric, didn't hear what?
Thanks to all of you - yeah those were more what I had in mind - and basic is just my style! Lots of stuff to think about now! Thanks again.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Gilbear

"BJ, how fast was your buddy's sander able to take down stock?"

Quick when he use 36grit. paper and real nice with the 150 grit. paper.
He got the sand paper rolls from http://www.Grizzly.com. (H4776 and G2789 and the H4424 )
He use cardboard tubes to make it quick and easy switch out. from Home Depot "carpet cardboard paper tubes" he also tried PVC pipe but that's didn't work to well, to slick on the inside.

Bj


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

This jig should do the job.
http://www.woodworkersjournal.com/plans/index.cfm/plan_details/5/61/1641http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/1035-uhmw-panel-flattening-router-table.html


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Here is a cool simple sander that I think I will get/make...
http://www.stockroomsupply.com/V_Drum_Sander.php

I have other sanding topics on my website...
(toward the bottom)
http://woodworkstuff.net/woodidxjigs.html


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Joe

That's a neat setup 
I was going to build the floor model (( http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=powertools&file=articles_528.shtml )) 
But I think I will get the 18" kit and the sanding Mob(s).
Neat stuff... 
I now use the link belts on most of my equipment and they are great. 

http://www.onlinewoodshow.com/show/company.php?number=20102&cat=1&prod=D1810

http://www.onlinewoodshow.com/show/company.php?number=20102&cat=3&prod=SM600

http://www.stockroomsupply.com/

Plans Below ▼
https://www.stockroomsupply.com/Drum_Sander_Plans.php


Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Hi Bob,

I was thinking of the 18" drum also... primarily because I could get small box pieces, etc. over the slot & sand them where the larger slots would make it more difficult if even possible. (I even got to thinking about a jig placed over the drum for very small pieces!  )

At one time, I was thinking of scrounging the parts, pillow blocks, shaft, pulleys, etc. & even making the drum out of individual cut circles, etc. ... BUT, recently, I figured it wasn't really worth the effort as well as taking a huge chance that it wouldn't work good (as good as with their parts). So, I've decided to just get The Works kit for the 18" unit.
That way, most of the critical stuff will be done for me!! 

It has been a long time since seeing the Mop sanders... thank you for bringing those to my attention!! They're cool too!! Although I couldn't find the Dremel sized goodies on their site... guess I'll have to call them... The 6" combo of 120 / 220 looks good to me.

They used to have another video, that I thought was better than this one... showed the ease of changing drum grits, etc. and even setting up more than one grit on the same drum!! This is COOL stuff!!

Caution... the prices, shown at the bottom of the videos, are Canadian... US$ are LESS!! I'm glad I noticed that!! (cause I thought it was getting a little Pricey... More reasonable with the US$ price!)

Keep us up to date on your progress... OK? I will do the same.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe
Will do, the 18" kit and the 6" mob is on the way 
-----------
Thanks for shopping with Stockroom Supply. We'd like to confirm your order that was received on November 13, 2006

Your total purchase came to $232.90

Your order will be shipped to the following address as soon as possible.

Again, Bob , thanks for choosing Stockroom Supply. We look forward to serving you again in the future!

Sincerely
The Stockroom Supply Team

North America's Abrasive Specialists!
------------
-----------------------------------------------
Need To Get In Touch With Us About Your Order?
-----------------------------------------------
Via email at: [email protected]
(please be sure to give us your first and last name)
- Via phone at: 1-877-287-5017 8AM to 4PM EST
Monday through Friday



Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Well I got the kit and the new motor ,it's 90% done and so far it's great I did rework some of it (most of it  motor mount,motor placement,roller placement,roller mounting,vac.system,power switch,etc.) so I can raise it and lower it with hand crank up font and that has been a real challenge with engineering nightmare using a scisser mechanism and rollers 

It's works better than my planer and it is 18" wide on top of that .
I also reworked the cabinet so it's a floor type now.

By the way here's a link to the small mob sanders

Mini Mops
http://www.stockroomsupply.com/The_Mini_Mop.php

http://www.stockroomsupply.com/Products.php


Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Hi Bob,
Sounds good!! I had found the small mop sanders... thank you...

Glad to hear it's better than a planer!! I was hoping for that... except, you would have a harder time getting multiple pieces the same thickness... you would have to measure after each pass as it gets closer... yes?  

I was going to experiment setting the Finest grit a little lower than they say to see if it would be easier to control the thickness, etc. Set the Finest and the others follow... right?

What is the smallest piece you can sand over the top? (without a jig) 

Looking forward to seeing pictures of it...

I'm close to ordering... trying to decide on everything I want so I get FREE Shipping this time rather than building to another $100 order! 

How do you like your Mop sander? They sound real cool too... I'm leaning toward 6" and 1" or 1.5" mops... and of course you must get more grits, etc. right?! 

It snow-balls into more than you expected after you get the basics decided upon... more fun!

Thanks for the report... looking forward to the next one...

Have a nice Thanksgiving!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Joe

"you would have to measure after each pass as it gets closer" YES,that would be true because there is not a go or no go gage so to speak like a planer...

"What is the smallest piece you can sand over the top" so far I have use 1/4" thick and 1" wide and about 12" long, you can also use it like a jointer, put sock on it's side and just push it over the drum and it comes out great just like a jointer.

"How do you like your Mop sander" I got the 6" kit and they give you all you need plus some to make a mop for the drill press , but I have not made the mob for the drill press yet still need to find a 1/2" x 4" bolt to use for it, the standard one works great for raised panels and moding plus other jobs.

I killed the scisser mechanism ,about 6:30 AM today and I'm going back to the hinge today sometime, just to much work and it only needs to move up and down about 1/4" max both ways.
I Forgot the base rule make it simple...  and it took me 2 days to make and weld up the scisser frame , just a bit over kill on that one  but I can use it for a bike jack .

Have a nice Thanksgiving also JOE

Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe
Well here's a small update, it's 99% done but I did run into a error that I need to fix today ,that is a out feed device, after removing stock it needs a small item on the out put side to get it to work right just like a jointer plus I want to add a fence to keep it sq. when I use it like a jointer, I think I'm going to use some black 1/16" thick vinyl stock on the out feed end.

I did rip the sand paper on the drum roller so I need to replace that today ,I wanted to see if I could jam the roller and see what would fail 1st. and now would be the time to fix it. 
All in all I would give it 4 stars out of 5, I did make a error when I made the top part, I put the slot for the roller on the back side of the top and it should be in the center of the top but I was trying to fix the out feed on the top,  when you remove stock you need someting to support the new size (thickness) so I made a out feed table top but it's a bit to low, the vinyl should fix that. 

I will post a picture or two once I have the shop clean again I have wood and tools all over the place on this project. 

Just a side note, I just got a copy of the Jasper Cir.jig and it's great little hole jig, my son had one at work and made a copy of it by drilling 126 holes in some 1/2" MDF stock.
Then once I got it from him I drilled 32 more holes, for a total of 158 so now it can do 5" to 18 15/16" .

Number 200 type
http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/pc/JA-200/Jasper/Sound
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/1265-small-diameter-circles-2.html#post35697

Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Here are some snapshots of the Drum Sander plus a snapshot of the Jasper cir.jig my son drill out the center hole so I put in a plastic plug in with a 3/4" I.D. to use the brass guide, that just drops in the jig, with the plastic insert in place no need to bolt the jig to the router now , it can also be used on the router table by using the brass guide system and no fence needed. 

Just a note *** by using a bigger brass guide and a vac. pickup on the router the chips will be pulled out the bottom that should help cutting cir. on the router table.


Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Bob,

Thank you very much... looks pretty good & simple.

Why do you need that circle jig for this project? For the dust collection hose?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Cir.Jig, no I just got lazzy someone ask how to make circles on the router table and I put it in this post and the 1st.time I told him it would be hard but with this jig it's easy with a bigger brass guide and a good vac. system off the base of the router in the table mount, Just lazzy on my part I guess   that I didn't recall who it was for sure   .

Vac port,just a hole saw will do that quick and easy. 

Joe just a note**** I had 7 old computer desks around and now I have 6 that's what I used for the sanding drum table to start with. 

Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Bob & All,

I'm looking for a motor for the 18" drum sander... 1/2 HP.

I found this on Harbor Frt... do you think it's junk? Will it last awhile?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92105

There is a Baldor on eBay... nice... but $114 + frt which I know would be good... at about twice the cost.

Decisions... decisions...

Any other good motors out there?

How is your sander working so far... happy with it?


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## angus (Oct 14, 2004)

Just courious - How did planing with a router evolve into a drum sander?????
Angus


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

I used the Grizzly one below because it was a Enclosed type and it would be working in dust cabinet so to speak,the dust box is just about a 1 1/2 " from the motor,and I rate motors by the amps. they pull that tells me a lot about the motor.
I have a had good luck with Grizzly motors in the pass.

I'm not sure about HF motors I have not used one >.

* Type: Enclosed
* Size: 1/2 HP
* RPM: 1725
* AMPS @ 110V / 220V: 8.8 / 4.4

Full 1 Year Warranty! 

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G2528

The sander is working great , I was going to fire up the joint and the planer and I said OK lets see what this thing can do , Works great for both jobs.
I need to spend more time with it to keep out the snipe out on the end when I come off of it, like most tools, time,time,time with the tool. 

JOE just a note ,,, the kit will come with 2 pulleys both are 1/2" I.D. so you will need to get a 5/8" I.D. one for the motor you should get a 2" OD one.



Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Angus
Who knows LOL hahahahahahaha LOL it just did LOL

Bj 




angus said:


> Just courious - How did planing with a router evolve into a drum sander?????
> Angus


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

I was wondering about that too...


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## angus (Oct 14, 2004)

Well Im sure glad that I'm not the only one who noticed this. It's kinda amazing that on a router forum we can argue about the use of a tack rag, have word games, wood turning thouhts and ideas, or other venues that have no relation to the use of a router, but cannot keep a subject related and or referring to a router keep within the cofines of the subject.

Im sure I'll be critized for this, but hey it's not the first time. I really feel that the Router Forum is straying from it's original consept - to bad, I personally thought it's conception was great, but I and others I've contacted feel we're straying, is it due to lack of support or interest? Look at the repeat postings 2-3 4 weeks after the original- is this because there is not enough postings to keep fresh thoughts or ideas. 
Angus


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Angus,

Here is the original post that started this thread...
_I've lost it - Having no planer, I'm tired of using the belt sander for thickness planing, not to mention the swirling dust - I know I saw a jig or setup for floating a router over material for thickness planing but now I can't put my finger on it - anybody got a link or plans for that?_

It is possible to plane with a router... It is also possible to use a drum sander (instead of a belt sander that he mentioned).

I personally don't think there is anything here to argue about... so why are you starting to argue about nothing?   

We don't argue here on this site... we are a friendly bunch and we are proud of it.

Gnite...


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## angus (Oct 14, 2004)

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I posted this the other day in the Lobby, but I think it may have got lost somewhere in the "non Router" info.

Someone posted an article about using a router to make a board flat. Does anyone remember where it was posted or better yet is the one who posted it reading this. All I can remember is that it's a jig that allows you to mount the router and move it side to side to remove the crown or bow in a board.

I sure hope someone can help me find it, or can give me some info. 

Thanks for your help. 
Angus 

Sorry Joe This was posted before the drum sander it evolved to the other thread a day or to later - also read what i said I'm not aruging I only made a statement - the agruing is on another thread by other parties - It's a shame that one cannot voice their the opinon or thoughts without getting the dander up of others -so you sir can have a good night also


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Ok, Gilbear started this thread looking for a way to plane boards with a router. I saw a couple good posts on jigs for that purpose. Sanding devices were suggested as an alternative, and that is all good. This post drifted into a different topic and that makes for confusion. The sanding drums and belts, the jigs and such really belong in a different catagory. To avoid confusion lets all make an effort to be sure information is posted where it should be.
*Angus, you are absolutly correct. There is a lot of confusion when old posts are pulled up and revived months or even years after they were posted. Perhaps a time limit should be applied to the life span of a post, at which point it should be locked. This is a subject for a different area and I will open a thread for discussion there.*


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Gilbear said:


> I've lost it - Having no planer, I'm tired of using the belt sander for thickness planing, not to mention the swirling dust - I know I saw a jig or setup for floating a router over material for thickness planing but now I can't put my finger on it - anybody got a link or plans for that?


A few weeks ago, I had to flatten a board... I don't have a thickness planer, etc.... 

*I thought of the Router method...* I quickly made a jig to do it...
It was super simple and it worked great!!

*Here is what I did:
=============*

First of all, my board was about 3/4" thick and had a slight curve in it... it was about 24" long and 10" wide... looking at the board from the end, it had a slight bow over the 10" width.

*I took four pieces of 1 x 2 (3/4") Ash.* (anything that would not bend from the router weight)

*2 of them (about 32" long) were left at that length;* the length of the other 2 boards were trimmed as follows...

*Lay the 2 long boards on the bench vertically (North/South) side by side.*

Take the router you intend to use and place it on those 2 boards so it's supported by them... Have a 1/2" straight bit in it...

Now, move the router to the right until the bit stops it...
Move the board on the left so it supports the left side of the router by a safe 1/2". *That is the Key distance that those 2 boards have to be so the router can be moved up / down and sideways without dropping through the boards.*

Place one of the other 2 boards across the boards *where you had the router... with about 2-3" hanging over each side* of the N/S boards, Mark it and cut it.

Cut another piece the same length.

*Place one of the short boards over the N/S boards, centered, and about 2-3" from the top (North) end.* No glue required... just a couple of screws at each intersection.

Place the board you want to flatten, *bow UP*, on the bench oriented East/West... Hook the screwed short board over the board to be flattened... Fasten the other short board (with just screws) across the long boards so the Workpiece can slide between the 2 short boards the full length (24" in this case). 

*The short boards should be as thick to keep the long boards just above the workpiece... In my case, 1" or so...

The jig is done... now use it...*

Turn it so the short boards are on the bench and the workpiece can slide through the opening.

*MAKE SURE THE ROUTER CAN SLIDE FROM SIDE TO SIDE AND END TO END WITHOUT FALLING THROUGH THE LEFT/RIGHT SUPPORTING BOARDS.

Adjust your bit depth so it takes a small amount of wood... tighten it good.*

It's a good idea to *clamp things down a little...* keeping them out of the way,

*Now, you have the router in place, in the open area, turn it on, and slowly move the router forward / backward and then to the side for more... get it all cleaned out...*

Move the workpiece over to expose more to be flattened, with some overlap... and continue til done...

Adjust the bit, as required, to get to the final depth... and do it again.
*(it might be possible for you to do it all in one pass)*

Now, turn it over, onto the flattened side, and do the same to that side!

*Caution: When moving the router across the board, ALWAYS keep the router flat on the guide boards... if you make any tilting movements, YOU MAY GOUGE THE WORKPIECE...* learned that the hard way.

=================================

That's it!!

It takes a little router movement, but it goes by fast, and you will like the results!  

Good luck!!


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Joe
> 
> I used the Grizzly one below because it was a Enclosed type and it would be working in dust cabinet so to speak,the dust box is just about a 1 1/2 " from the motor,and I rate motors by the amps. they pull that tells me a lot about the motor.
> I have a had good luck with Grizzly motors in the pass.
> ...


Bob,

I just placed orders... Motor from Grizzly and 18" drum works (w/ free DVD & 10 yd. roll of sandpaper) 2 6" Mops w/ FREE 1" Mini Mop!

I forgot to mention the 5/8" pulley... will have to call them to get that changed... (they will do it, I understand).

Will let you know how it goes.

Joe


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Please let me know.besure to view the DVD b/4 you start, it's not the same as the PDF plans, the one they make (on the DVD) is like a shoe box with the motor that hangs on the front of the sander drum box, it's almost funny but not at a 200.oo price tag.
But it's a small family company but that's ok because the kit is worth it ,but the DVD is funny in a way.
Note the top they cut with the table saw and then note the one they use,it's been done with a router, you can tell by the round ends of the opening for the drum on the back side of the top.  (45deg. with rounded ends)

Note to sure where to post this, but it's here now so I guess you will see it . 

Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Joe
> 
> Please let me know.besure to view the DVD b/4 you start, it's not the same as the PDF plans, the one they make (on the DVD) is like a shoe box with the motor that hangs on the front of the sander drum box, it's almost funny but not at a 200.oo price tag.
> But it's a small family company but that's ok because the kit is worth it ,but the DVD is funny in a way.
> ...


They intercepted my phone msg abt the 5/8" pulley needed...
They also emailed me asking me of the grit I wanted on the free 10 yd. roll... I got 220...

I think you said you made your outfeed 1/16" thicker to get the jointer control... still have snipe? I was thinking that maybe 1/32" might be better.(?) I will be making my own top, etc.

Yep, I think now that the damage has been done, we continue posting here... I did start another thread with a link to here...

Thanks for dvd heads up... I tend to over-study & plan everything I do... One of the reasons it takes me so long to finish projects.  

Later,
Joe


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Joe

"emailed me asking me of the grit" = same on this end and I did mark the order forum what grit I wanted, but no big deal, I also got the 220grit. on the DVD he removes the 150grit. that comes on the drum and puts on the 220grit. to set it up for the 1st. time.
Like I said it's a funny DVD he just pulls it off like a old rag and then rolls on the new one with a (220) new type of cut on the ends.(sq.cut)not to a sharp point ( funny guy red neck type LOL .) looks like he runs his company out of his big garage.
How to tell if you're a red neck, you sell drum sanders to wood workers on the net hahahahahahaha from suckers.com ,hope not for my part. 

BUT I think I will rework the plans some day and come up with one that deosn't need the out feed part.
Set it up like a planer, I now have all the parts I need I just need a new set of plans to raise and lower the drum just like a planer.,once one side is flat just flip it over and send it one more time under the drum sander.

But it now works OK for me 



"1/16" thicker" = I readed the plans over and over to see how to set it up and I could not see how they keep the snipe from coming into play, you know and I know when you remove stock you need something to take it's place.
So I put the drum slot on the back side of the top so I could use the 1/16" stock to fill the void after the stock was removed.
I could not get it right in my head by using a flat top, I could see how it would work if the drum was on the top of the stock but below the stock it blew my mine. 
Planer jointer thing in my head 

Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Bob,
> 
> I just placed orders... Motor from Grizzly and 18" drum works (w/ free DVD & 10 yd. roll of sandpaper) 2 6" Mops w/ FREE 1" Mini Mop!
> 
> ...


I called them today inquiring about my order...

Would you believe it was found to NOT to have been shipped?!!

My order had been set aside for some reason...

ANYWAY, it's on it's way to me now!! ... I have the motor... got it last week...

Oh well...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

I was thinking about that and you today  I said he must have it done by now and was looking for his cam. to take a snapshot or two 

It never fails when you want something now someone drops the ball. 

Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Bob,

I received my order yesterday, Monday... Got around to watching DVD today...
The DVD version is sure a lot easier to build than the paper plan!! I might do it that way with a guard that goes around the belt & motor a little better.

I called them... talked to the guy in the DVD...

I asked if he ever modified the coarser grits spacing so as not to take as much off in a pass... He said "Yes, all the time... I did it today, just raised the screws a little to just remove some saw marks from a piece."

I asked about changing the outfeed height vs the infeed to be more like a jointer...
He said "Cannot do it... you will always get snipe & you cannot get rid of it. He also said that once you get the feel of it, you will know just how fast to feed it to get a full even cut... He said he sanded a door feom 3/4" down to 1/4" at a Show and it stayed at uniform width the whole way through."

So, I'm not going to change infeed / outfeed... will keep it all flat as recommended.

I think I will also make the simple version as noted above... maybe with something on the bottom to anchor it to a top... I think I will also have a flat bottom and vacuum the sawdust occasionaly... Don't know yet... maybe I'll slant the bottom like they did.

At any rate, I don't think I can mess things up too bad...

I have some scrap formica that would give it a nice smooth top...

I'm thinking of doubling the top with 2 pcs of 3/4" ply to get 1 1/2" thick top like theirs.
The top appears, to me, to be the most important piece of the project... must be FLAT and SMOOTH.

I was also thinking of making a fence, clampable across the top, so edges could be sanded at a positive 90 degrees... or 45 degrees.

I got the Grizzly 1/2 H motor you mentioned... it's a little wider than the paper plans would allow... will modify to good coverage.

So far, I'm happy...

I've been fighting computer problems for the last few days (main reason I have not been around so much)... have to get that stuff all done so I can give a borrowed notebook back...  

How do you like yours... so far... I see you changing back to a flat top...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

"Flat top", it's always been a flat top but I did add the formica on the outfeed end 1/16".
"How do you like yours ?" ,great so far still playing with it ,tweak here tweak there but all in all it's OK.

I do play with computers so if I can help just let me know .
I'm always on the link below, under the user name of DEX
http://www.annoyances.org/exec/forum/win2000

Let me know how it works out for you 

NOTE****

I have been playing with the plans a bit,see below ▼
Still working on a hold down roller and maybe a power feed drive with gear box . 
But then I may not need a power feed drive just push in and pull it out.



Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey Joe 

If I said Drum Sander you would say ???

Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Hi Bob...

Drum sander...

I got the kit, etc.
Studied and modified plans for my motor as well as making it better.
I'm going to make the clean & simple one like in the DVD.
I'm all ready to start cutting, etc. EXCEPT that other things have been interrupting me like:
1. Making room to use tools.
2. Getting sick.
3. Making room to use tools.
(My garage is a real mess... my neighbor, good friend, passed away in November... a lot of his stuff came to me & my already stuffed garage... really bad)
4. I keep telling myself to get with it... but there is no place to put stuff.
5. I have to decide what must go (thrown away) so as to make room for new stuff.
6. I need more room to put stuff.
7. I want to do it asap.

How are you doing with yours?
Getting the 'feel' of it?
Working good?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Joe

1. great
2. yes
3. yes

Bj


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## J-man12 (Jun 4, 2007)

its in a wood magazine but i cant remember what issue


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This shot from my gallery shows a simple set of skis which has many uses as shown in a number of my posts.
Using a Router to plane a Board Face 15th April 07


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## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)

Konnichiwa Benny San
Ogenki be gozaimasuka

Doko ni sunde imasu ka, watakushi wa Yokohama de sunde imashita.

Yokohama de, rooto 16 no, Kamakura chikaku ni, ooki na no DIY mise ga arimasu.
Ano tokoro de, takusan no iro-iro na woodo arimasu.
Ano hito o denki kanna to ooki na no nokogiri mote imase deskara, asoko de katara ano hito cato to pranning mo dekiru.
Asoko de takusan no Lawan kaimashita.

Kiotskete
niki

OK, I just gave Benny some directions to a DIY shop that has a huge selection of woods and they can also cut and plane it.

Harry
The habits in Poland are a little bit different that other countries.
Oak is the national tree here (you need permission to cut it).
I buy the Oak from the villagers and they have this 24" (600 mm) old German planer so I get it to my home already planed.

One M³ (one Cubic Yard) costs $300~400, the planing and shipping will add some $50 but I don't have to buy planer, I don't get all the dust and it's delivered directly to my garage door...

niki


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

But Niki that's cheating! (half you're luck, I'm envious)


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## dlong (May 17, 2012)

*Magazines as a resource*

Thanks to the tips in this forum I was able to track down a router thicknessing jig in no time. I found 2 useful articles -- am linking below in case someone else needs them in the future.

First, the ShopNotes magazine, Vol 4 Issue 21 from 1995. 

Second, Taunton's Fine Woodworking magazine, #222 from December of 2011. 
Sometimes a picture is worth thousands of words! So I have attempted to attach both covers.

I have the whole article from FW scanned in -- 6 pages. I don't have the ShopNotes one. So... if you have the ShopNotes article or want the Fine Woodworking one, shoot me a PM. THANKS!

-Dustin


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## dlong (May 17, 2012)

Yikes, since I have not yet posted 10 articles to the boards I'm not able to respond to PM or send any private messages. So... instead of PM, just shoot me an email if you would like a copy of that Fine Woodworking magazine article or if you have a copy of the ShopNotes article that you can share. My address is [email protected]

Thanks... sorry for the hassle. (Chris, I'm looking at you.  )


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Greetings Dustin,

Welcome to The Router Forums!

Thank you for sharing the results of your research with me, thickness planing is among the many things I would like to learn how to do better with my router.


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