# How Big a Band Saw...?



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

If I were to buy a band saw, how big should it be so I don't grow an inch at a time as the need arises...? Brand recommendations are welcome, of course...
Thanks in advance...Nick


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

How about ... as big as you can afford?

I have a little 9" one, and it is pretty much worthless because the blade wanders way too easily. I think the bigger the machine, the better control it has over the blade.

I've tried everything I have read to tune it up, but it still wanders like crazy. The only thing I haven't tried is a new blade; this band saw takes a 59 1/4" blade, but I think the blades they sell at the big box stores are 59 1/2", so the previous owner may have put a blade on that is a little too long, making it so I can't get the tension it needs.

This is not a recommendation; I am simply reporting what I have heard from others ... for an inexpensive BS, the people who own Harbor Freight band saws seem to be happy with them.


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## richtink (Dec 5, 2012)

Nickp said:


> If I were to buy a band saw, how big should it be so I don't grow an inch at a time as the need arises...? Brand recommendations are welcome, of course...
> Thanks in advance...Nick


I always say buy the biggest and the best you can afford. My first bandsaw was a Delta 14" without a riser. I had to upgrade to a Grizzly 14" with a riser for a project. A lot of people would say a Grizzly is not an upgrade, but my experience is both saws performed equally well. I found the blade is the most important part of the equation. For resawing, I used a wood slicer brand. It can be resharpened and performed better than any other blade I ever used.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

A 14" bandsaw seems to be about the "all around" bandsaw for size wise. As for brand... you have Grizzly, Delta, Steel City, Rikon, Powermatic and several others to choose from. The ultimate choice is what are you willing to pay for? I've seen 9" all the way up to 24" bandsaws. So, you do have a wide variety to choose from.


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

I found a good used Jet 18", no regrets at all.
I like using 1" blades for resawing.
But, have used 1/8" blades for small tight turns.
Lots more table room also.

Don


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## bosox (Jun 12, 2012)

As big as you can afford . If your shop has a lot more space, you can go for 14- 18" 
bandsaw. Of course , you have to consider on what are the sizes/shapes and the materials
you are planning to cut out . 




BandSawBlog | News, reviews and articles about band saw blades and partsBandSawBlog | News, reviews and articles about band saw blades and parts


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Nick, the size of band saw you may want will depend on the kinds of jobs you plan on doing with it. For instance; if you want to re-saw then you would want a saw with a higher vertical cutting capacity as well as being able to handle a larger blade (1/2, 5/8) or if you want to cut patterns or rip cut a wide piece you would want a larger horizontal (throat) capacity. By the way. The measurements, such as a so called 10" or 14" saw, is referring to the diameter of the wheels on the saw. Not the size of cut the saw will make. The cutting (throat) capacity of a 14 inch saw will be less than 14 inches and so on...
The quality of blades and how well you set it up will determine how the saw performs way more than the cost of the saw itself. Just because the saw costs more doesn't automatically make it a "better" saw. So, in the long run, how you plan on using the saw and how much you want to spend should determine which saw you will want.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Sawdust Don said:


> I found a good used Jet 18", no regrets at all.
> I like using 1" blades for resawing.
> But, have used 1/8" blades for small tight turns.
> Lots more table room also.
> ...


I suspect that many readers will raise their eyebrowns about this post, I have said it earlier on this forum. I have a new Grizzly 17" BS. I had installed a 1/8" inch blade to try some tight curves which of course it did very well, then I got to wondering about what Alex Snodgrass said about re-sawing and so, just for fun I tried to re-saw with the narrow 1/8" blade. My first attempt was on a six inch wide board and set it up to cut a piece of veneer off that was about .150" thick. The board was, as I recall, about 14" long. I made the cut and then measured the variation at all four corners of the piece of veneer, the variation was, again as I recall, about .010". I have two one inch Timberwolve blades but have, as of yet, not installed one of them. I have used the half inch blade that came on the saw. I am not a seasoned woodworker, but so far, the Grizzly saw has worked perfectly for me. I have nothing to compare it to, so I really may not be the best judge. The only complaint that I have with the saw is that the removal and reinstallation of the table is difficult to some degree because it is quite heavy, myby 60 to 70 lbs. it may not really be that heavy, I have not weighed it, just guessing from lifting it. But that is not a real negative about the saw. By the way, the table is removed when changing blades so that you can get to the adjustments on the blade guides and the the thruse bearing that are beneath the table. In my opinion you would not go wrong if you bought this saw, but it is somewhat more expensive than most 14" saws. Let us now what you finally decide on.

Jerry


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

In this case, I would agree with Don and Jerry. Hindsight being a useful tool, I would have gone for a 17"/18". You can use 3/4" or 1" blade for re-sawing but can still go down to a 1/4" or smaller blade for finer work. You also will get a bigger motor.

On thought to keep in mind is that with a band saw, to get the best out of the saw, you will have to change blades more often than you would with a table saw. On some of the larger saws you may have to remove the table to fit the blade and adjust the bearings.


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

Here is a not so good photo, it will have to do for now "the battery died".

I have some pretty tough to saw woods here, the toughest so far is maple burl "on the saw".
Other woods here are high figuered black walnut, and birds eys maple "large board" on the table.
The box under construction on the table is myrtle burl, framed in birds eye maple, box jointed. This will be a sewing box for my mother "90"yrs old.

My work ratio is-"3 to 1"
Two projects for my wife.
One for my mother.
Then maybe one for myself out of the left overs.

Anyway, the band saw is most critical to me as, I dont no where I could find woods like these already sized.
I buy it in as big of pieces that I can find. The prices are what I think are reasonable.
Then, at least the wood matches.
I also salvage large beams from old buildings.

I think a band saw will pay for itself quickly going in those directions.

On the larger saws, as Jerry mentioned, its not practical to pop off the table to more easily change blades, but its not that hard to do.










By the way, the blade on the saw is 1.3 tooth per inch, 1" wide blade. Also on the saw table are push blocks.
That blade could remove a hand instantly, always be careful!

Don


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## PRDarnell (Mar 21, 2012)

I don't have a bandsaw -- yet -- but if I did I would want two. I'd start with a 14 inch with risers would be my first and would be my "go to" saw. Then I'd like an 18 inch that I could dedicate to resawing. 

Oh, and since I'm in the U.S. of A. I'd like to find a brand that is made in either the U.S. or Canada. 

Hey! I can dream, can't I?


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

I started with a 12" Craftsman BS. I upgraded to a 14" Jet off Craigslist. I found that the amount of space it took in the shop was nearly identical.

I installed the 6" riser block on the Jet and it will fit my needs for quite some time.

A bi-metal blade can cut the occasional metal item.

Buy a book AND watch that Alex Snodgrass vid on YouTube. 
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube

If any literature conflicts with what Alex says, go with Alex.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Thank you all for giving me ideas on "how to buy" the right band saw...it seems (between your posts and my own research for what I might want) the 14" looks like the breakpoint...lower means faster upgrade, bigger means longer to upgrade  ...and thank you for the reminder for the riser...this makes the decision even easier. I think I can buy with more confidence now...Happy Holidays to all...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Sawdust Don said:


> Here is a not so good photo, it will have to do for now "the battery died".
> 
> I have some pretty tough to saw woods here, the toughest so far is maple burl "on the saw".
> Other woods here are high figuered black walnut, and birds eys maple "large board" on the table.
> ...


Don...that is some really good looking wood...sorry your ratio is so high


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Nick, I went with a 14" Deluxe from Steel City. No risers to play with, included mobile base and work light. Granite table that will require next to zero maintenance, dust collection port and a very good price. I am very pleased with it.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Mike said:


> Nick, I went with a 14" Deluxe from Steel City. No risers to play with, included mobile base and work light. Granite table that will require next to zero maintenance, dust collection port and a very good price. I am very pleased with it.


I hope it's the same one I'm looking at but the Home Depot specs say the minimum and maximum blade is 3/4"...is that a misprint...? Does it only take a 3/4 " blade...?

EDITED...sorry, Mike...I found the real specs...1/8" to 3/4"...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Nick, I liked the idea of the saw being tall enough to resaw with no risers. A solid frame really is the best situation since there is no way it can be out of alignment, one less thing to worry about.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Mike said:


> Nick, I liked the idea of the saw being tall enough to resaw with no risers. A solid frame really is the best situation since there is no way it can be out of alignment, one less thing to worry about.


I like the idea of being able to grow into the work I might do...right now I don't see myself jumping into resaw'ing...but who knows... "chance favors the prepared mind"...or opportunity comes to those who have a prepared shop...


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Nickp said:


> I like the idea of being able to grow into the work I might do...right now I don't see myself jumping into resaw'ing...but who knows... "chance favors the prepared mind"...or opportunity comes to those who have a prepared shop...


Nick,
I think that you will be surprised at how quickly you find that you will try to re-saw and after you do you will find that all of a sudden the need to re-saw will happen, it happened to me and it is really a great feature to have in your shop. Best of luck and you sure will enjoy what ever you saw you buy, we will be watching to see how it goes.

Jerry


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Sawdust Don said:


> By the way, the blade on the saw is 1.3 tooth per inch, 1" wide blade. Also on the saw table are push blocks.
> That blade could remove a hand instantly, always be careful!
> 
> Don


Yes, I remember not long ago, a member posted about his friend who lost 3 fingers to a band saw in the blink of an eye. And the unfotunate guy is a seasoned carpenter who has been in the business for 25+ years. He said he was there and it happened so suddenly, the guy was working fast and something just slipped.

So safety always has to be the most important thing.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> Yes, I remember not long ago, a member posted about his friend who lost 3 fingers to a band saw in the blink of an eye. And the unfotunate guy is a seasoned carpenter who has been in the business for 25+ years. He said he was there and it happened so suddenly, the guy was working fast and something just slipped.
> 
> So safety always has to be the most important thing.


This reminds me of a History Channel Modern Marvels show about meat cutting - I was amazed at how fast a band saw could reduce a side of meat, ribs, that is, to size. Almost no effort. Those butchers wear protective gloves that _might_ help save a hand:nono:

Now, my own 'toy' size Craftsman - works fine through some things, but now that I'm getting back into more interesting woodworking, find that I need a lot more to do some resawing. The little saw has been great doing aluminum cutting and rough shaping on my automotive projects though - that is as long as I remember to clean the metal chips off the drive tire regularly.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Nick,
> I think that you will be surprised at how quickly you find that you will try to re-saw and after you do you will find that all of a sudden the need to re-saw will happen, it happened to me and it is really a great feature to have in your shop. Best of luck and you sure will enjoy what ever you saw you buy, we will be watching to see how it goes.
> 
> Jerry


Yep, what he said. Just plan for it, either with the Steel City or another saw that can be fitted with riser block.

I had no real intentions of using a band saw to resaw--never figured i'd progress to that poinr. About 2 weeks after getting my band saw, i resawed some old treated 4 x 4's to frame out a rack for "benchtop" tools. The next week i split 4/4 cherry and walnut to make a box, but couldn't use the 8" wide cherry i had so i was limited. Ordered a riser block the next day and someday the rest will be history. For now, it's a mediocre but functional skill level!!


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

I guess I'm going through that phase where one day I know what to get and the next I'm still "googl'ing"...cheez...
I'm thinking a 14 with 12 in rise would be my "grow into" saw...then again there are 14's that will accept a rise that I could grow into...the difference is a few hundred BUC's (Bandsaw Unit of Currency)... I've been Window's shopping and looks like my affordability is in the range of Steel City (1000+), Jet (about the same), Porter Cable (400+110 riser+200 better guides), etc... The Porter Cable seems to let me grow within my budget a little at a time vs Steel City Deluxe all at once. My holdup is how much resaw I will do how fast...and then again, as I posted about the torque wrench, don't need it all the time but can't do without it when ya need it... Right now it looks like I can stall the decision...but I know the faster I get the taller rise, the more projects I will use it in... Thank you all for all your interest and advice...especially for the safety component...I hope I keep the respect for the power for a long time...but then I have you guys to keep reminding me...Thank you and have a wonderful Christmas and safe and prosperous New Year...I'm so happy I ran into this forum...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Nick, one other thing to consider: if you buy a saw that requires a riser block then any blades you have purchased are no longer of any value once the block has been added. A riser block is not something you put on and take off on a regular basis, once in place it is there for good.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Mike said:


> Nick, one other thing to consider: if you buy a saw that requires a riser block then any blades you have purchased are no longer of any value once the block has been added. A riser block is not something you put on and take off on a regular basis, once in place it is there for good.


Good point, Mike...I had forgotten that for as long as I worked with 6" I would also grow in blades that would be useless after I put the riser in...I've been looking at the Steel City Deluxe 14 since your original reply and I think I like it (although I don't know enough to say why)...looks like the specs will be 14", 1.5(+)hp, 12" cut, tension release, tilt table, roller guides, 1/8 min, 3/4 max, good fence, and more I'm sure. I bought a 2003 Heritage and wanted Rinehart pipes...didn't buy them for the money...bought 4 times the price in other pipes, still not happy, still don't have the Rineharts...if I remind myself of that lesson I'll make the right choice on the bandsaw...


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Nickp said:


> Good point, Mike...I had forgotten that for as long as I worked with 6" I would also grow in blades that would be useless after I put the riser in...I've been looking at the Steel City Deluxe 14 since your original reply and I think I like it (although I don't know enough to say why)...looks like the specs will be 14", 1.5(+)hp, 12" cut, tension release, tilt table, roller guides, 1/8 min, 3/4 max, good fence, and more I'm sure. I bought a 2003 Heritage and wanted Rinehart pipes...didn't buy them for the money...bought 4 times the price in other pipes, still not happy, still don't have the Rineharts...if I remind myself of that lesson I'll make the right choice on the bandsaw...


What is a Rinehart Pipe?


Jerry


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Mike said:


> Nick, one other thing to consider: if you buy a saw that requires a riser block then any blades you have purchased are no longer of any value once the block has been added.


The blades have some value - on Craigslist.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Jerry Bowen said:


> What is a Rinehart Pipe?
> 
> 
> Jerry


I think they are talking motorcycles. (or Hockey according to google):jester:


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## bosox (Jun 12, 2012)

Nickp said:


> If I were to buy a band saw, how big should it be so I don't grow an inch at a time as the need arises...? Brand recommendations are welcome, of course...
> Thanks in advance...Nick



I have lots of materials to cut in my shop . Trajan 14" bandsaw is pretty good. I just added riser kit to improve my resawing capacity .


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> What is a Rinehart Pipe?
> 
> 
> Jerry


Hi Jerry...Rinehart is a very expensive set of deep sounding throaty motorcycle exhaust...didn't buy them because of expense but have spent much more for what I have not liked...and still haven't gotten a set...was applying that lesson to my buying a bandsaw...


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