# Dovetail jig???



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I am planning to build a buffet in the dining room and later all new cabinets for our kitchen (next year). So, I am in the market for a dovetail jig. But the big question is which one?

I am not a very technical guy so dependable and easy to use would be two requirements high on my list.

The drawers I will be making will have the false fronts on them so half blind dovetails is what I think I need.

Also, a sliding dovetail might be great to mount a sliding cutting board in the cabinet.

I thought I was going to get the PC 12 inch jig but I keep reading reports of the sides and fronts not matching up.

So, now I am confused. Any help or advice is appreciated.
Thanks
Mike


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

Actually Mike because you are going to attach a false front then you should be using a through dovetail, and about which one? It depends if you are going to use it a lot, if you are then get a better one, I use the Leigh 24 inch DR4, but if you are not going to use it all the time then that jig is too much money so don't worry that the cheaper ones won't work because they will do your drawers quite OK, just do some test components first so you are sure that you have the set up correct then do the real ones, and you have made a good decision to dovetail the drawers as that will give a much nicer finished product, N


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> I am planning to build a buffet in the dining room and later all new cabinets for our kitchen (next year). So, I am in the market for a dovetail jig. But the big question is which one?
> 
> I am not a very technical guy so dependable and easy to use would be two requirements high on my list.
> 
> ...


Hi Mike.

If you can justify the expense, I suggest that you buy one of the Leigh Superjigs, or you buy an Incra LS positioner with Wonder Fence, which will give you almost unlimited variety. The Incra is probably the most cost effective, because you can use it for every other router table purpose.

The cheaper dovetail jigs that use a handheld router often don't allow much change in stock or dovetail sizes. I had a couple of the European PC equivalents and they were just about OK for 3/4" stock only and a limited number of widths. In their favor, they did line up both halves OK.

Leigh Dovetail Jigs and Mortise and Tenon Jigs

INCRA Precision Fence :: Router Table Fence :: LS Super System


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## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

Keep in mind is if your boards aren't square the drawers will be wobbly. Also that some jigs allow for variable spaced dovetails which I think look more professionally done and don't looks as much machined produced. Malcolm


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## Fraise (May 19, 2012)

If I was doing just one set of drawers I'd use a saw. As someone above wrote, through dovetails for a false drawer front.


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## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

A couple years back I built all new cabinets for our kitchen. My wife wanted nothing but drawers from the countertop down. (IMHO drawers work way better than cabinets with doors down there.) I made 12 drawers using a Craftsman dovetail jig. They came out great. I made all the drawers at one time, because there's so many test cuts to get it right. Rockler makes a inexpensive one, that I often see on CL.

Leigh and those other upper end sets offer lots of versatility and ease of use but you've got to have deep pockets and/or the ability to justify the expense. You can certainly cut them by hand if you have more skill and/or patience than I have.

It's so great to be starting a project like this. You must be excited!


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## donald_archer (May 24, 2012)

Hi

I have been during some research into Dovetail jigs for the past 8 months or so and i have come to the conclusion that the Porter Cable 4216 is the best fit for me. I like the flexibility of being able to do a variety of dovetail joints as well as finger joints by changing the templates. It comes with the dovetail bits and router template guides as part of the kit, and it also it looks to be ready to set up and from what I have read(reviews) it is manufactured to last and the parts will not wear easily and therefore the setup will not stray once it is set. 

Please be advised that this is based on what I have seen and read. I have not used it yet but I will be buying 

Don
"making more sawdust than stuff"


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks for the replies. I am excited about building the cabinets. I have the tools. Hopefully, what skill I have will result in a nice looking project. 

My local lumber yard sells "shorts" (less than 48 inches) of all sorts of hardwood at 50% off. Each time I go there, I usually rummage through their inventory and pick up some maple or poplar or red oak for projects. I am thinking about stocking up on maple. Then I can make my own drawer components. Joint, plane and then glue up some panels. Rip them into the desired sizes then finish them off with the planer and sander to yield 5/8 inch thick drawer sides and ends. 

Here is the sketch my wife drew up. The buffet will be ten feet wide with a granite counter top (or something similar). I am going to build the buffet using several cabinet components and then put them together and trim it out. Since both end walls extend out past the cabinets, it should look like it had been there for the past thirty years. The spot is perfect against the wall of our dining room.

Once complete, we will tackle the kitchen. So there may be about 15-20 drawers and sliding trays built for these two projects. We are getting older so drawers and pull outs are what she wants.

As for the dovetails, this is all new to me (even the nomenclature) so I am trying to learn quickly by browsing the web for help. I have a router table (w/Bosch 1617 router) or I can use the jigs with the router hand held. Ordinarily, I would make my drawers using rabbited front and rear pieces. That makes it easy for me to get my width accurate, glue and nail with nothing showing once the false front is attached. But this time, I want dovetails. 

I appreciate the advice. Keep it coming.

Mike


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

I have a PC 4216 and while there is a learning curve, it was really pretty easy to get the hang of. My worst problems and solutions were:
1. Milling only enough wood for the project with minimal waste. At first, this left me with not enough cut-offs for suitable backing (the horizontal plane). The solution was simple and obvious, just took a little time to begin remembering to mill some extra!!
2. Setting the proper bit depth. The jig has a depth setting pad that really gets close when the templates get set. But, it's a black pad, in a tough location for me to get good lighting. As a consequence it was hard to see when the bit was just touching the pad. Harry would have likely added LED lighting--my solution was to strike a fine depth line on the board I was cutting, just long enough for me to set the router in a template finger to fine tune the depth. Found it much quicker and infinitely easier for me to see!!

I made several boxes, quite nice results. Once I used the PC several times, it really is quite intuitive. Over the winter, I got a good price on a used Incra positioner, and for its various uses I moved in that direction. For box joints--i'd say the Incra might be a tad quicker and easier. For dovetails--in my opinion (definitely not expert), I think the PC 4216 might be easier to set up. Might not be quite as versatile, but with the info in the supplemental manual one could get creative on spacing. Once the set-up is done, the PC may have a slight edge on the Incra in that there is not a need to do the initial back cut.

I've since added an Incra on my table saw as well, and I can't justify keeping the PC for as little as I use it, so it's on CL now. As soon as it sells--i'll probably decide to do 37 of some kind of box and wish I hadn't sold it!!

earl


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## stanzee (Dec 9, 2010)

MT Stringer said:


> Thanks for the replies. I am excited about building the cabinets. I have the tools. Hopefully, what skill I have will result in a nice looking project.
> 
> My local lumber yard sells "shorts" (less than 48 inches) of all sorts of hardwood at 50% off. Each time I go there, I usually rummage through their inventory and pick up some maple or poplar or red oak for projects. I am thinking about stocking up on maple. Then I can make my own drawer components. Joint, plane and then glue up some panels. Rip them into the desired sizes then finish them off with the planer and sander to yield 5/8 inch thick drawer sides and ends.
> 
> ...


I didn't change cabinets but I made pull-outs for all the cabinets except the lazy susan and the flatware section which has vertical dividers. Even the garbage can is a pull out.


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## oldrusty (Mar 31, 2011)

Hi Mike. I am new to routing in general but some years ago I dabbled a bit and did try a Craftsman Jig. I couldn't get my joins to line up, couldn't even understand the instruction. I recently bought a Leigh Super Jig and found it to be user friendly. I now make great box joints and as the fingers are moveable I can make a variety of spaced dovetail joints, through. half blind and sliding. I also bought the Leigh router support/dust extractor and boy does it work well. The book that comes with the set is the best instruction manual I have ever seen. No regrets at all. Oldrusty


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

*PC jig*

I don't understand where you got your information about the PC dovetail jig, but I have had no trouble with it at all. Like what was said about, there is a learning curve, especially for someone like me who had never made a dovetail before and used a router very little.
I am very happy with it. If I wasn't I wouldn't have purchased the rest of the set.

Good luck and happy woodworking with whatever you decide.


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Mike right now the PC 4216 with the mini template kit is $178 on Amazon. Kinda hard to beat for what you get!

PORTER-CABLE 4216 Super Jig - Dovetail jig (4215 With Mini Template Kit) - Amazon.com


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

neville9999 said:


> Actually Mike because you are going to attach a false front then you should be using a through dovetail...


Why? Is it for strength because they won't be seen from the front. Or, will the dovetails fail?

The reason I ask is that I recently dismantled my old workbench I built in 1987. The drawers had the heavy duty drawer slides and they were built out of 3/4 inch plywood with simple butt joints, glued and nailed with a trim nailer. I had to break them apart with a hammer. All these years of use with 35-50 pounds of stuff in those drawers and they never came apart. I can't imagine kitchen cabinets getting that much abuse.

Just curious.

Note: I watched the Woodsmith video of the PC jig and that helped a lot.

Thanks.
Mike


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Willway said:


> Mike right now the PC 4216 with the mini template kit is $178 on Amazon. Kinda hard to beat for what you get!
> 
> PORTER-CABLE 4216 Super Jig - Dovetail jig (4215 With Mini Template Kit) - Amazon.com


Thanks. I have been looking at it.
Mike


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

williamm said:


> I don't understand where you got your information about the PC dovetail jig, but I have had no trouble with it at all. Like what was said about, there is a learning curve, especially for someone like me who had never made a dovetail before and used a router very little.
> I am very happy with it. If I wasn't I wouldn't have purchased the rest of the set.
> 
> Good luck and happy woodworking with whatever you decide.


Maybe i should have said there was a learning curve for ME. But not as steep as some things--had a nice box on the second try. The first failure was my fault--not the fault of the jig or instructions...i just messed up. Never made the same mistake again, so that was my learning curve on not switching bits. MY learning curve on not milling enough stock too way too long for ME to learn from. 

I'm just not the sharpest knife in the drawer at some things. Great jig, and works very well--even in my hands.

earl


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks Earl. 

No doubt there will be a learning curve for me. I seem to get confused when it comes time to make something upside down (or inside out) and then flip it around. I don't think I am dyslexic, but I might be. :-(

I guess at this point, I am looking at the PC 4216 model.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

When using the PC 42xx jigs, pay particular attention to the rec. drawer height. In fact, I'd take this into consideration as part of my 'planning' of the design.


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