# Oak Bowl



## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

Here is a oak bowl I just completed. It is 9" across and 3 3/4" deep. I tried a new approach to finishing. After I sanded it to completion I used 220 and 320 grit dipped in antique oil. I sanded with each grit wiping with shavings after each. It really gave me a smooth surface and when dry it had filled the pores in. I have a second coat on the inside and 3 coats on the outside. The LOML said that was her new popcorn bowl so what can I say.


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## Dal300 (Jul 14, 2011)

Wow Bernie..... Someday, just maybe, I'll be able to put out pieces like you guys do!

That looks fantastic!


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Nice one, Bernie. I will have to remember that finishing technique. It looks good.


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

Thanks Dallas and George. Dallas keep at it and you will. Just takes a lot of practice. 

George I will be using that finishing style on any open grained woods. The slurry that the antique oil/sanding makes then I use the curlies to burnish it just leave a smooth surface. I found that a paper towel will do the job also of wiping off the excess slurry.


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

Is that considered a Food-safe finish? I just did a bowl similar in size from 350 year old Bur Oak that fell down a year ago in Brentwood TN, and I sanded and made a finish of amber flake shellac and denatured alcohol. 3 really thick coats, then French polished with the same mixture but dauber with olive oil on it. Nice finish, not glossy but easily cleaned and safe, and easily repaired if need be.


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

Mark it is food safe. Any finish today is food safe if cured for 72 hrs. I generally have them dry for a couple of weeks or until I can't smell the finish anymore. I haven't had a problem in 5 yrs now. I also use a finish from Mike Mahoney which is walnut oil that you can get from most woodturning suppliers. His is a different process so there is little if any risk of allergic reaction if you are allergic to nuts. Most people don't realize tung oil is from a nut and if allergic to nuts it can get ya.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Job well done Bernie


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

Thanks Jerry. I appreciate it.


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

BernieW: I just turn a bowl similar in size from an historic fallen Bur Oak from Brentwood, TN (350 yrs. old) and I left it about 5/8" thickness. This tree fell in July 2010, and I sawed a log lengthwise in half 3 months ago. It was nice and level when finished but in the week since it has become warped and even started to crack at one of the pith areas near the rim. I put medium CA glue in the crack to try to stop it, and the next day filled with Titebond I and smoothed that off. The crack seems to have stopped, but I'm afraid the warping has not. How can I turn "green" wood and not have it warp? Do I turn it it twice the wall thickness and leave in it's shavings for a month, then finish it? I'm a noobie so all help is appreciated. Thanks.


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## Maurice (Sep 24, 2004)

Go to the top of the class again Bernie.
Excellent.


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

Thanks Mark and Maurice. 

Mark what I do with mine is I rough turn the bowl to 10% thickness. That is if I have a 10" bowl I make sure it is at least 3/4" thick or more. Most bowls over 12" I leave about a 1" to 1 1/4" thick with the tenon left on so it can be rechucked. I write the date and wood type on it. I coat the whole bowl with anchorseal and put it in a cool, dry place preferably on the floor. Basements work good but I have a room where it stays around 68 deg and not much air flow. I don't ever stack them much above 2 ft high off the floor. Now this will take some time to let dry sometimes from 6 months to a year. I weigh them once a month on a postal scale I got off ebay that weighs from ounces to 55 lbs. Once I hit a month where it doesn't lose anymore weight, I will weigh it everyday for a week. If no weight is lost it is ready to go back on the lathe. 

One more word on cracking/warping is you must cut the pith out of the wood. I always split my log in half. I cut 1/2" on either side of the pith. That slab goes into the firewood pile. The pith is where cracking starts. Warping is going to happen until the wood is dry. That is why you leave the extra thickness so you can return it to the lathe and get it round again. If you have anymore questiions Mark just ask away. I will help in any way I can.


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

Thanks so much for the answer. I guess I am anxious to get a finished product for my wife to use. We did use the oak bowl last night for popcorn to watch a movie with the kids. I walnut oiled over the french polished shellac to keep the lacquer from getting damaged. I think this one's stabilized for now. But, I will try your methods on the next turnings and see how those go. I just don't have patience to wait that long for the drying to occur. Maybe I am warped?


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

Mark I learned early in my turnings that patience is needed from start to finish. The two biggest mistakes I see are drying and putting on the finish. On utility items that will be used I either use minwax antique oil or Mike Mahoney's walnut oil. As for drying I don't worry about it to much as I have some 50 or 60 roughed out bowls drying now. Every time I take a roughed out bowl to finish on the lathe I will rough out a couple more. That way I have a string of bowls at the ready.


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