# Craftsman table saw repair



## 59405 (May 15, 2011)

I have an older Craftsman table saw purchased used. It is a model 315.228310. The original owner used a too short key in the arbor drive pulley that allowed the pulley to "work" a bit. The pulley and arbor shaft are not useable. "All wallered out" as they say in East Tennessee. Parts are available I think. When I looked at the Sears parts blowups it looked like it would be easier to remove the arbor support yoke to work on outside the confines of the saw than to disassemble the entire saw to take the arbor out. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing? I'll even take "advice" which might be suspect. I find that much advice is not based on actual experience. I also know that "experience is an expensive teacher but a fool will learn by no other." I'd prefer to rely on the actual experience of my fellow woodworkers than learn the wrong thing all by myself.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

> Parts are available I think.


I hope so, too. Good luck.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Jack, is it just the keyway that is damaged, or something else on the arbor? I've never done it, but I have heard of people repairing the keyway with liquid steel or even JB Weld. Might be worth a shot. The pulley should be cheap to replace. Do a google on keyway repair, lots of "how-to" examples.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

I'd change the arbor, since it is(while it is!) available. It should not be too difficult. Remove the table from the cabinet. Turn it upside down, and it should be reasonably accessible. You will likely have to do some filing to get the arbor out because of the wallowing!


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## Harrison67 (May 30, 2012)

Gravytrain said:


> I have an older Craftsman table saw purchased used. It is a model 315.228310. The original owner used a too short key in the arbor drive pulley that allowed the pulley to "work" a bit. The pulley and arbor shaft are not useable. "All wallered out" as they say in East Tennessee. Parts are available I think. When I looked at the Sears parts blowups it looked like it would be easier to remove the arbor support yoke to work on outside the confines of the saw than to disassemble the entire saw to take the arbor out. Does anyone have any experience with this sort of thing? I'll even take "advice" which might be suspect. I find that much advice is not based on actual experience. I also know that "experience is an expensive teacher but a fool will learn by no other." I'd prefer to rely on the actual experience of my fellow woodworkers than learn the wrong thing all by myself.





I have around 65+ years experience with Metalworking, and I'd suggest getting it welded up and getting the keyway re-machined. No big deal with a guy who knows metal properties, and is a good weldor.

Or, machine a brand new arbor from bar stock. 

Anything less, is a temporary fix. IOW, you will have to have it redone one of these years.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Harrison67 said:


> I have around 65+ years experience with Metalworking, and I'd suggest getting it welded up and getting the keyway re-machined. No big deal with a guy who knows metal properties, and is a good weldor.
> 
> Or, machine a brand new arbor from bar stock.
> 
> Anything less, is a temporary fix. IOW, you will have to have it redone one of these years.


+1

This is exactly what I was thinking I would do, before I got to this post. It is not timed so where that keyway is cut is not important rotation-wise. It could be welded up as filler (The old slot) and the keyway cut into the opposite side. They could bring the arbor flange into true while they are at it...

I have to say that with rebuilding old iron woodworking machinery and building new jigs and "things" for my other woodworking tools, I do my own welding, but I do have a relationship with a machine shop... The main guy there seems to have a curious interest in the things I come up with. He always meets me at the office with a pad and pencils and a smile... Asking what we are doing now. 

Example- my latest is having a router chuck adapter for my RAS machined out of a Porter Cable 890 arbor shaft... He wants the power unit there to check the fit... 20,000 rpm tool speed. He want's to make sure eveything lines up. That's a good thing.

***If for you, If you can get an arbor new. It's going to be cheaper than to have it welded and machined. Machine shops are generally expensive. I understand that I tend to get the entertainment value, veteran/legacy old-timer discount. 

But even new, I check my new arbors with a dial indicator. You would be surprised how much some new arbors are off (Quality Control). Easy to dress it to bring them back in. .005" off on the arbor flange can mean a whole lot more off further out on a 10" or 12" blade... And you would be surprised in how much a better cut, less noise and vibration there is when you do than.

Remember, since you took the trunions loose... When you get it back together- re-align and true your saw to the left miter slot, both at 0 and 45.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

I found it... This may help you get things back in tune:
http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/38609-adventures-table-saw-tuning.html

I wrote out how I tuned my saws. (I'll have to write a new one for my new saw....)


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

MAFoElffen said:


> +1
> 
> 
> Remember, since you took the trunions loose... When you get it back together- re-align and true your saw to the left miter slot, both at 0 and 45.


Don't really think it is necessary to loosen the trunions to change the arbor on that saw! 

Depends on the charges for repairing the old arbor, I am guessing it may be a wash cost wise vs replacement. I would remove it to repair anyway so the labor is the same.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Dmeadows said:


> Don't really think it is necessary to loosen the trunions to change the arbor on that saw!
> 
> Depends on the charges for repairing the old arbor, I am guessing it may be a wash cost wise vs replacement. I would remove it to repair anyway so the labor is the same.


Agreed. Even if he had problems getting the 2 allen head set screws loose in the pulley, the pully off and the e-clip holding the arbor in... if he still couldn't get the arbor out, the arbor housing is just held in on it's pivot by a snap ring and washer. Taking it out by either of those two ways, he wouldn't have to take the trunions loose.

I mentioned that because he mentioned:


> When I looked at the Sears parts blowups it looked like it would be easier to remove the arbor support yoke to work on outside the confines of the saw than to disassemble the entire saw to take the arbor out.


For me, with a saw that size, I'd just flip it over onto it's top. No sense in acrobatics and contortion if you don't have to.


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## vridhisharma (Jun 3, 2013)

Great share keep it up.


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## 59405 (May 15, 2011)

*Thanks for the help and suggestions*

I've been delayed in getting this job done. Some medical problems have arisen and I may have to go in for some back surgery soon. The suggestions and tips have been very helpful. When I can, I'll get it all done either with replacement parts or I'll go the machine shop way. I have a friend who runs a specialty shop and he takes on all sorts of small jobs like this would be. I think the hard part will be getting the arbor support yoke off of the saw. Thanks again for all of your help. Jack.


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