# Band Saw Blade Storage Means #4



## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

For band saw blade storage, I have been using box hung from the ceiling with dividers that allowed me to separate and store about twenty blades. It was built for my 93-1/2” blades, so, if I installed a riser block, I would have to replace it.

After I moved my band saw to the other side of the shop, I just hung the blades on nails on the wall, “until I got time to drop, move and re-install the storage cabinet.” That ate up a lot of valuable wall real estate, however. Then, the area above the blades became the ideal place for storing jigs. Putting the original storage back would block the view of the jigs, as well as place it well out from the wall.

Add to the issues noted above, and though I, generally, liked the storage I had been using, it required a lot of material, if I wanted to add room for more blades, or increase the size for larger blades.

In the end, this is the simple solution I came up with. It uses very little material, and I’m not limited to a blade size. It can, of course, be as long as one desires. I can vary the openings (e.g., smaller openings for 1/8” to 1/4” blades) to get more into a small area.

The blades store well above my head, but can still be easily taken off or placed back on the rack.

I had been using the clips in the picture to label the blades. I was thinking of adding a bit of laminate to each

one so I could write on it (e.g., this one is on it’s last leg, this one is perfect for abuse, because I want it on it’s last leg, etc.).

If I continue to use them, I may install screws under where each blade hangs, so I can put the clips right under the blade to which the note applies.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Kelly, 

I don't use a bandsaw in my shop, but my brother has our bandsaw in his shop - his blade storage is similar to your older one - but with the blades horizontally stacked rather than vertically stacked. My wife taught me a trick many years ago... There's a little tool called a "bo-peep" that is attached to a long rod - these are used in many clothing stores (in the back storage areas) to reach coat-hangers that might be hung on rods 12-15 feet off the ground. One simply uses the goofy-looking end of the "bo-peep" to lift the coat-hangers and bring them down to user level. These are most often attached to extension poles - such as a painter might use. If you have your "new and improved" blade holder made into a configuration similar to a coat-hanger (and balanced), this may prove helpful.

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## skiroy56 (Aug 7, 2011)

Great idea. Can you post a picture of this with one or two of the closest blades removed. That would show the detail better,please.
Thanks
Laurence


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

That reminds me of the poles with a stiff, bent wire we used to get fan belts off the wall in the gas station I worked as a kid. Good tip/Reminder. Thanks



OPG3 said:


> Kelly,
> 
> I don't use a bandsaw in my shop, but my brother has our bandsaw in his shop - his blade storage is similar to your older one - but with the blades horizontally stacked rather than vertically stacked. My wife taught me a trick many years ago... There's a little tool called a "bo-peep" that is attached to a long rod - these are used in many clothing stores (in the back storage areas) to reach coat-hangers that might be hung on rods 12-15 feet off the ground. One simply uses the goofy-looking end of the "bo-peep" to lift the coat-hangers and bring them down to user level. These are most often attached to extension poles - such as a painter might use. If you have your "new and improved" blade holder made into a configuration similar to a coat-hanger (and balanced), this may prove helpful.
> 
> Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

Here is a photo with a couple blades removed. Hopefully this will make it easier to see the simplicity of the contraption.

Of course, one could do this with large cup hooks. As with this storage version, installing them in a board or piece of plywood would make them easier to move around or to position. Too, they might work better if they were squared up.



skiroy56 said:


> Great idea. Can you post a picture of this with one or two of the closest blades removed. That would show the detail better,please.
> Thanks
> Laurence


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## skiroy56 (Aug 7, 2011)

Thanks for the picture.
It is as I suspected but then thought you may have come up with a sliding lock affair to prevent them from being knocked off by swinging long boards around the shop.
Also it is now apparent that it is constructed out of plywood.
Thanks again.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

> That reminds me of the poles with a stiff, bent wire we used to get fan belts off the wall in the gas station I worked as a kid. Good tip/Reminder. Thanks


PRECISELY, KELLY! That's known (at least by a few as a "bo-peep"). Since you have a lot of attic space - I believe this idea may enable you to store the blades higher above(actually "ceiling height"), yet still have easy access. If you build one of these "truss - type" structures - have 7 or 9 evenly spaced openings for blades and you can always have it loaded in a balanced manner - by symmetrically positioning blades as you add or subtract. I have a lot of storage items here that I prefer to "balance load" - with 7 or 9 evenly spaced "docks" - these can easily be shifted around.

Let me know if you want a drawing. I'll be glad to make one for you and attach it as a pdf on 8.5 x 11 size. Fractional or Metric - whatever I can do to help you.

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

But it wont be open rafters for long. I'm ordering Rock Wool bats and drywall this week. Who knows, I might be able to keep the temp below 114 this summer, and above 0 this winter.




OPG3 said:


> PRECISELY, KELLY! That's known (at least by a few as a "bo-peep").
> Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## Fred615 (Jun 25, 2010)

Instead of a plywood strip with all those machined J-hooks, why not just a strip of solid wood with a series of store-bought J-hooks with plastic coating (or dip the J on non-coated hooks into liquid plastic) screwed into the bottom edge of the wood bar? That would save a lot of machining time.


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## Snowdon1 (May 21, 2014)

*Another solution*

I can't remember where I got this idea from

Use large size bulldog clips, the type with long spring wire handles.
These have the added advantage that you can affix a label to them so you don't have to count the teeth each time 
You can then hang them from nails or a row of hooks


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

In response to your question:

(1) Because it's an hour to civilization from my shop [to acquire the hooks]; 

(2) Like most sawdust addicts, I have a lot of scraps, and that equates to free [labor aside]. 

Need I say more, other than that I mentioned large cup hooks below (because, like you, I thought it was a good idea)?




Fred615 said:


> Instead of a plywood strip with all those machined J-hooks, why not just a strip of solid wood with a series of store-bought J-hooks with plastic coating (or dip the J on non-coated hooks into liquid plastic) screwed into the bottom edge of the wood bar? That would save a lot of machining time.


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

Are those the ones barely visible in the photo (bottom right)? They do work well, but not for high mounting, since they spin around the blades, so you can't hang them on nails and things above your reach.




Snowdon1 said:


> I can't remember where I got this idea from
> 
> Use large size bulldog clips, the type with long spring wire handles.
> These have the added advantage that you can affix a label to them so you don't have to count the teeth each time
> You can then hang them from nails or a row of hooks


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

Another version of mine could be made without a lot of cutting that required a hand held saber saw. It would just require making the vertical cuts. Next, nail a piece to the bottom to give a bottom similar to my plywood version. Finally, nail a piece to the end of that and you'd have the same thing.

It might be quicker and easier to build.


I may build one using hooks, like I and Fred were thinking of, since it's even easier yet.


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