# box joint jig and more



## newby (Feb 24, 2011)

Hi, everyone I've been away a long time. Ria is in her 5th. week of chemo, with 7 more to go. Then a year of other stuff. The worst side effect is hair loss. You ladies can relate to how stressful this part is! I said if she loses hers I'll shave mine, except I am half way there already. Anyway I made a box joint jig and it turned out like junk. I found the plan on you tube {teen woodworker]. I used plywood and I think that was a mistake. Does anyone have a better idea for the wood or plans to make it? I kind of have to use what I have around cuz of all the doctor bills. How about pine? I think I will try a bigger one like 1/2" or so. Thanks too everyone Mike and Ria


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Pine might work but it is soft and may give after a while ..... Good luck and i will send a prayer for ya'll


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Mike, I would suggest you spend the $23 for an Oak Park box joint jig. They are simple to set up, work slides smoothly and they are trouble free. The 3/8" jig is the most commonly used and I think a better choice than 1/2". (All 3 jigs sell as a set for $59) Save yourself a lot of grief and go with the best. Make a few boxes and they will pay for the jig. Here is a link to the jigs: Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I made one for a table saw out of plywood, firmly attached to the mitre gauge, and it worked reasonably well with a little tweaking after. Please tell Ria that there are many here that wish the best outcome for her even though we have never met.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Mike, prayers go out to you all!! 

To the other Mike, I think you sold me on to that jig! That looks about as easy as it can get!


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## newby (Feb 24, 2011)

*oak park jig to Mike*

Hey Mike, The oak park jig looks good, It looks like it needs to screwed to the top of the router table. My table is a bosch and is waffeled underneath. I am a little concerned , I guess I could back it with something. I am also concerned about getting the jig perfect on the table if it needs to be drilled. Do you have this jig and was it a problem to install? If it can go wrong I can make it happen! I just don't want to wreck my router table, If it can go wrong I'll do it, thanks Mike Luttrell


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

No need to screw it down,see video on the bottom of the web page below. NOTE the free shipping from MLCS that will save you about 15.oo bucks over the OP system.
Fast Joint Precision Joinery System

You can also use your tee tack if you have one on your router table like below....
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/6913-wooden-hinges.html

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fisherman123 said:


> Hey Mike, The oak park jig looks good, It looks like it needs to screwed to the top of the router table. My table is a bosch and is waffeled underneath. I am a little concerned , I guess I could back it with something. I am also concerned about getting the jig perfect on the table if it needs to be drilled. Do you have this jig and was it a problem to install? If it can go wrong I can make it happen! I just don't want to wreck my router table, If it can go wrong I'll do it, thanks Mike Luttrell


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I think BJ had a senior moment... the box joint jigs BJ, not the EZ Link System.
Mike, you can clamp the jig to your table but it only requires two 1/4' holes and they do not effect any other uses of the table. Trust me when I say you will be able to properly install the jig. There are threads about this very thing on the forums and of course we will talk you through each step. If you have Skype we can have a video call where you can watch me set up the jig and ask any questions you have. There is a thread on the forums about making an angled clock which will show you the steps to cut your box joints at angles, a neat little project.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

*Hi Mike*

I can show you the door but you must open it. 

Check the* bottom* of the web page I posted 
you will see the box joint jigs 
But note they have updated the box joint jigs to look just like the OP ones and to be use in the same way just a longer jig this time....and no screws needed to lock it down to the table top..
*Multi-Joint Spacing System

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*

Multi-Joint Spacing System Video
Multi-Joint Spacing System Rabbet/Lap Joint Video
YouTube - ‪MLCS Woodworking Multi-Joint Spacing System Making a Box Joint‬‏
YouTube - ‪MLCS Woodworking Multi-Joint Spacing System Making a Rabbet / Lap Joint‬‏


Fast Joint Precision Joinery System

Plus they used my push block almost but a cheap one for free from MLCS.

Not like the WoodLine type, that is a dead on copy of the OP box joint jigs..
Woodline USA - Woodline Spacer Fence Sysem
Woodline USA - Ultimate Joinery Deluxe Combo Systems

Incra jig/fixture video ▼
http://www.rockler.com/video/incra/Incra-Universal-Precision-Positioning-Jig.html

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Mike said:


> I think BJ had a senior moment... the box joint jigs BJ, not the EZ Link System.
> Mike, you can clamp the jig to your table but it only requires two 1/4' holes and they do not effect any other uses of the table. Trust me when I say you will be able to properly install the jig. There are threads about this very thing on the forums and of course we will talk you through each step. If you have Skype we can have a video call where you can watch me set up the jig and ask any questions you have. There is a thread on the forums about making an angled clock which will show you the steps to cut your box joints at angles, a neat little project.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Well BJ, one of us had a senior moment... 
I had scrolled down the page a ways, just not far enough. I would say the improved MLCS jigs are better than the old ones. I still prefer the total construction from HDPE that Oak Park uses but to each his own.

Mike, the reason for drilling the two mounting holes is so you can quickly set up the jigs in the future. It only takes a few seconds once the holes have been drilled. You can also clamp the jigs to the table. The key to making quick and accurate set ups is using brass set up bars. Once you use them you wont want to do set ups with out them. The brass set up bars are available from many sources, shop around for the best price.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just a note about brass bars, stop by the ACE Hardware store and pickup the 12" long key stock ones for a song, cut them in 1/2 so you have ones that will fit over the big holes in the router mounting plate, be sure and get the 1/16" sq.one, that's not in most kits..
OR
http://www.mcmaster.com/#key-stock/=ceya6g
Brass—Key Standard 

Made from alloy 360 brass, which contains lead for good machinability. 
It's corrosion resistant and nonmagnetic. 
Minimum tensile strength is 40,000 psi. Minimum Rockwell hardness is B35.

Tolerances: 1/8" to 1/2" sizes: ±0.0035"; 5/8" to 1" sizes: ±0.0045"; 1 1/4" size: ±0.005".
Size Each
1/8" × 1/8"	98500A100	$1.10
3/16" × 3/16"	98500A117	1.85
1/4" × 1/4"	98500A136	3.12
5/16" × 5/16"	98500A150	4.94
3/8" × 3/8"	98500A165	6.89
7/16" × 7/16"	98500A179	9.15
1/2" × 1/2"	98500A187	11.89
5/8" × 5/8"	98500A206	18.66
3/4" × 3/4"	98500A226	27.08
1" × 1"	98500A257	40.12
1 1/4" × 1 1/4"	98500A274	105.00

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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I have two sets of the HDPE Oak Park type and one set is starting to warp bad 
up by a 1/2" or so on one end..it is about 5 years old..


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Mike said:


> Well BJ, one of us had a senior moment...
> I had scrolled down the page a ways, just not far enough. I would say the improved MLCS jigs are better than the old ones. I still prefer the total construction from HDPE that Oak Park uses but to each his own.
> 
> Mike, the reason for drilling the two mounting holes is so you can quickly set up the jigs in the future. It only takes a few seconds once the holes have been drilled. You can also clamp the jigs to the table. The key to making quick and accurate set ups is using brass set up bars. Once you use them you wont want to do set ups with out them. The brass set up bars are available from many sources, shop around for the best price.


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