# Guide bushing off center



## NoChatter (Dec 4, 2010)

So I purchased an inexpensive Woodriver ($19) set and they are off center. I am wondering if this set maybe was just not made for my PC 690.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

First check to make sure the router moter is in the base and the clamp is working properly, adjust the clamp if needed.
Then check to see if there is any play between the collar and router base, loosen the screws that hold the base plate and see how much adjustment you can get at that point. You might find that you can get the collar centered. if it will still not center take the collar set back and get a different set. 
When I get a base set up with a collar try to leave it set up as long as possible, but I have more routers than the normal shop.

Hope this helps,
Mike


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## NoChatter (Dec 4, 2010)

So I tried the tips with no luck,and as I am carefully checking alignment I noticed tabs which are very thin but there none the less and I am wondering if the over priced PC guides are very specific and use these tabs for alignment. I am going to route a circle tomm. to see if it shows up in the cut.Thanks man.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

NoChatter said:


> So I tried the tips with no luck,and as I am carefully checking alignment I noticed tabs which are very thin but there none the less and I am wondering if the over priced PC guides are very specific and use these tabs for alignment. I am going to route a circle tomm. to see if it shows up in the cut.Thanks man.


I have a set of Rockler, Porter Cable and Jessem collars and they all have a little play in them. The tabs do help but aren't perfect. I shim with aluminum tape when needed. 

You can measure around the base from the collar and find where the measurement is correct, mark this point and keep it against the template. Turn the router as you go to keep that point against the template.

If the collars would center it sure does make things easier, especially for inlay work.

Hope this helps,
Mike


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

Just my 2 cents, it looks like the error is coming from the black plate, try this put in a inlay brass guide (most inlay sets come with a line pin) or a guide that has 1/4" hole in the center of the brass guide and chuck a 1/4" dowel pin or a 1/4" router bit that just fits in the inside of the brass guide now take the 3 screws out of the black plate and turn the plate until the 3 holes line up dead on if you don't find that to be true drill out the holes just a little bit so they do line up just right you may need to make the counter sink hole a little bit bigger sometimes.

I have about 40 PC plates and I have found out that only 10 are drilled out dead on ,most brass guide are dead on the norm or to say almost all are..they are a item that's made on a lathe and it's hard to get them off center that way..the hole they sit in maybe off a little bit but that's not a big deal once you get the plate in the right place on the base of the router.


Hope this helps

P.S. if you use Allen flat screws they have a smaller OD head than the normal flat head screws this will help with adjustment of the plate without the need to rework the counter sink holes in the plate but you must drill the holes bigger so you can adjust the plate.
If you still have a error with the plate drill out the holes to a flat bottom hole and use Allen button screws (some times called Pan head screws) so you move the plate around to line it up on dead center with the arbor shaft..

inlay kit with line up pin
http://www.harborfreight.com/solid-brass-router-inlay-kit-99552.html

Here's one more way to take the error out your plate/router just replace it with one that's easy to setup and you can use the brass guides you now have also and it makes it easy to get the brass ring nut tight as well, one more plus for the MilesCraft plate you can remove the turn lock insert and you can spin up bigger bits (2" OD ) unlike the normal PC base plate that will max you out at 1" OD the norm..

http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-12...f=sr_1_13?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1326897632&sr=1-13
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NoChatter said:


> So I purchased an inexpensive Woodriver ($19) set and they are off center. I am wondering if this set maybe was just not made for my PC 690.


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Just to augement the above suggestions, you might also consider getting a router centering cone/pin/gauge to aid setup of the base plate then install and check the guide for center.

Can also use the cone to further set the guide if sufficient slop exists.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Can get you to ~+ or - .002" of center.
And there are many others.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

The inlay kit BOBJ3 gave the link to is also available from Grizzly, Rockler, MLCS, and others. All of them are similar. some have the centering pin some don"t. If you get one, get one with the centering pin. Rockler wants 34.99 for their kit without the centering pin and it's not any better than the Harbor Freight kit in my opinion. The bits .. some are better than others. Just remember, they work better with larger inlays.
If you want to get a new set of bushings Rockler has their set for 29.99 with 1/4" and 1/2 centering pins. Rockler Router Guide Bushing Kit - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Good luck,
Mike


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Neat design Pat.

Mike(NC), some routers do not use chamfered holes for the mounting screws. They use variations on truss head screws in an oversized counter sunk hole so there is room for adjustment of the sub base plate. The Rousseau centering kit, centering cones or inlay kits will all do the job well.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Quillman said:


> Can get you to ~+ or - .002" of center.
> And there are many others.


The subbase kit Pat showed a link to would probably be worth looking into if you are going to be doing very much close tolerance work. It has already been bookmarked in my browser.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

It's the black router plate, not the guide bushings. The problem is that the plate is attached with flat head screws in counter sunk holes which are just slightly off. You need to get some pan head screws and make 3 counterbored holes in the base plate. You can modify the existing holes but it would be better if you just made new ones.

If making new holes, first get a centering cone and center the base on the router and rotate the plate so the new holes will not interfer with any exiting ones. If the threaded holes in the router base go thru, you can make a point on a screw (that fits) and screw it in from the back side. Make sure the plate doesn't rotate when marking each hole. If you make 3 screws with points, you could screw them in from the backside so the points protrude a little, then insert a centering cone in the router. Place the centering cone in the guide bushing (which is tightened) and plunge the router to make 3 marks simultaneously. You will need some spacers to support the base so the centering cone can seat on the guide bushing and so the base plate doesn't rest, or teeter, on the guide bushing.

Or - just buy a milescraft plate and bushing kit.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

I've found that the order in which I tighten the three base plate screws affects the centering of the base plate on my PC router, and I can achieve an acceptable result by using an alignment pin and tightening the screws in a specific order.


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## NoChatter (Dec 4, 2010)

Thanks for all the replies. I now know that although things that one assumes should work without a flaw are a fantasy. I for one have to modify most things and have no fear. I cut and grind things often. So after reading Bobj3's post I soon realized that the cone headed screws are the problem. They work great for tightening but do not allow for up/down adjustments. I most likely will buy the above mentioned plates as they seem more qualified. I do not like black plates anyways , I would much rather have it be clear. I will also try to fix the stock plate using Bob's flattening out bottom of screw hole technique. Again thanks all for great responses.


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## NoChatter (Dec 4, 2010)

So I just modded the plates screw holes. I flattened them with my trusty dremel and a flat cylinder shaped grinding attachment as suggested by Bob and it worked perfect. I did not have exactly the right screws so I ended up having to grind the tops of the screws also but did not take but a second ( hardware store for me is a ways to go). Anywho checked the tolerance with a drill bit and it's way good.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Glad the forum was able to help, Mike.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

I made new square (round when needed) base plates from Lexan for all my routers and drilled them to accept guide bushings. The other thing I did was to drill slightly oversize holes for the attachment screws then used stainless steel serrated flange head torx screws and a centering cone to attach the base plate. When I use a guide bushing I loosen the screws and use the centering pin from my inlay kit to align the bushing then re-tighten the screws. I was concerned about slippage so after the first one I used a dead blow hammer and gave the base plate a slight tap on all 4 sides and it did stay centered. I did the same thing for the 4 Ridgid trim routers I use with my Dovetail jig and after routing out both Dovetails and Box Joints in 3 boxes and a clock the plates and bushings are still dead on.

MLCS sells a spring steel guide bushing lock washer and a Brass Zero Clearance Ring Kit I use with both my hand held routers and router table also. The lock washer is particularly useful for the Dovetail routers as well as a set of padded plumbers pliers to tighten the guide bushing lock nut.


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