# Old Craftsman Radial Arm Saw



## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Hey guys, one of the surgeons has an RN that assists him in the OR & knows I'm getting into woodworking.

She inherited her dads RAS Model 509399. The manual says model 113.197411. It comes with an assortment of blades (9, one of which looks like a Dado blade). It looks very clean, has a blade guard (so recall repair must have been done). She says it's in the way in her carport & asked me to make her an offer. What would you guys say is a reasonable offer. I have no experience with used tools. She says her dad was very particular with his tools and always kept them immaculate. I can post pictures when I get home tonight.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

50~75$$$
there are many of them out there...


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Thanks Stick, are you familiar with this saw. I'm not finding anything on the Net about it.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

not surprising.. it's old...
parts are pretty much non existent ...


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

@Tonto1

Quentin - that looks like the saw my dad had, which was the Sears anniversary special and came with that lower cabinet - cost (Canadian) was somewhere between $1000 - 1200 at the time - I don't remember specifically.
He wanted to give it to me but I declined - I had a SCMS. He attempted to sell it but couldn't and eventually gave it away. Going price in our area (Southern Ontario) is somewhere between $50 - $100 as Stick says.

In case you're interested here's a link to the product manual:

Sears Saw 113.197411 User Guide | ManualsOnline.com


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

About what Stick said. The SCMS has pretty much replaced it. They were never particularly accurate. The most common use was on construction sites for repetitive cut off as in when cutting cross bracing for floor joists. You had to be pretty careful when using them not to put torque on the handle or you would pull them off square.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I've mentioned in the past; _that's_ the beast that nearly took my hand off. The *On-Off switch* was inaccessible from where I was standing doing a ripped dado. 
My own B&D RAS has the switch mounted on the end of the arm, where you can _always_ reach it.
Sorry, but after that experience you couldn't give me a Craftsman RAS.


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

I agree with all the above. Not very accurate and not worth much.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*On the Other hand...*

If you've got the space for it, it'd make a nice disc sander or even a drum sander if you can get a chuck to fit, or otherwise add a drum.
The Radial Arm Saw -- a Guide of Sorts - 6
Radial Arm Saw Sanding Disk


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I bought mine for 75 dollars and got one of the last free kits. I love mine its in excellent shape no play in carriage . I would not pay any more than 75 dollars. Mine was accurate if you align blade. Nice thing about them cheap fence just throw away. Need a new one take a 4 ft piece of 3/4 mdf rip a 2 1/2 inch piece. Clamp in place and cut through measure from the right side of curf to length you want put a stop block. Much better cut than my sliding compound because much better support don't get the chip out. However pain in the ass to cut angles so I use slider for angles.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> I've mentioned in the past; _that's_ the beast that nearly took my hand off. The *On-Off switch* was inaccessible from where I was standing doing a ripped dado.
> My own B&D RAS has the switch mounted on the end of the arm, where you can _always_ reach it.
> Sorry, but after that experience you couldn't give me a Craftsman RAS.


My Craftsman RAS was an older model and also had the On-Off switch at the end of the arm like the B&D. In the 40 years that I owned the saw, I never used it in the rip position - a coworker told a horror story of a kick-back that he had with his B&D so I always did my ripping on the TS,


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

roofner said:


> I bought mine for 75 dollars and got one of the last free kits. I love mine its in excellent shape no play in carriage . I would not pay any more than 75 dollars. Mine was accurate if you align blade. Nice thing about them cheap fence just throw away. Need a new one take a 4 ft piece of 3/4 mdf rip a 2 1/2 inch piece. Clamp in place and cut through measure from the right side of curf to length you want put a stop block. Much better cut than my sliding compound because much better support don't get the chip out. However pain in the ass to cut angles so I use slider for angles.


If you took the time to align them properly, they were very accurate - at least mine was. Go through the exercise of leveling the table mounting rails, adjust the blade for square, heel, etc. - and don't abuse them - and it would cut square parts all day long. I never swiveled the arm to cut miters - made a table with guides as shown in the manual. I also had a set of hardboard wedges that I'd bought with different angles that could be used alone or in combination - but the saw always was used in the straight cross-cut position. Gave that all away to the young man that I sold the saw to a couple of years ago - and still regret doing that in some ways still.


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## woodworker47 (Dec 19, 2008)

I agree with Stick's pricing. A friend of mine tried to sell his at a garage sale for $50. Not one offer! Another friend has a Delta he wants to sell. Not sure of the price, but if you like radial arm saws like I do, it will be a steal.

Frank


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## crittergitter (Nov 16, 2011)

Are you aware that the radial arm saw you are trying to sell has been recalled? Contact Emerson with the model number, if it is on the list, they will send you a pre-paid postage box for you to return the motor to them. Once you do, in about a month they will send you a check for $100. A quick google search will give you the website for Emerson Tool Company, who is handling the recall.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

crittergitter said:


> Are you aware that the radial arm saw you are trying to sell has been recalled?...


I don't believe this type is one with the cash recall. I have a very similar one with a single width stand. If the guard has been changed, the recall repair has been done.

I worked with one (like in Vince's link) for over 10 years and love them... call me crazy.  I had to get my own. The one I found was probably used once, looking at the table and the original blade. It probably scared the user.

I've done all types of cuts with them, even with the blade flat to the table and ripping a section out of aluminum extrusion by riding it along the top of the fence. They are very versatile but I can't see them being good for a left handed person.

I think I paid about $200 Canadian for mine many years ago and don't regret it at all.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

I'm going to go look at it this weekend. Really more interested in seeing the Dado blade, need one of those. If it has a 5/8's arbor, I may be able to use it on my table saw. Hopefully it will be in good shape & the RPM's still legible. $50-$75 seems like a good deal if the blades are good & fit my TS!


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I have now got a replace works same just as accurate probably more accurate. Cheap version of the pref dogs 2 fixed fences instead of lots of holes and only 4 holes. I bought the kreg new clamping bench with the holes in it like the old Black and Decker work mate. This my clamp solution works for me. I am going to change my fences to be able to lock track saw down. I have been trying to sell my radial arm saw. Problem is same space as most that love them . Mine is buried most of the time. I have to constantly move things to use. I am out of space it will have to go. Need storage space can't find things lots of clutter.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Tonto1 said:


> I'm going to go look at it this weekend. *Really more interested in seeing the Dado blade, *need one of those. If it has a 5/8's arbor, I may be able to use it on my table saw. Hopefully it will be in good shape & the RPM's still legible. $50-$75 seems like a good deal if the blades are good & fit my TS!


if the blades aren't carbide they aren't worth much...
also, if they are negative hook angle, like they they should be for a RA they have only limited use on a TS...

...


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

roofner said:


> I have now got a replace works same just as accurate probably more accurate. Cheap version of the pref dogs 2 fixed fences instead of lots of holes and only 4 holes. I bought the kreg new clamping bench with the holes in it like the old Black and Decker work mate. This my clamp solution works for me. I am going to change my fences to be able to lock track saw down. I have been trying to sell my radial arm saw. Problem is same space as most that love them . Mine is buried most of the time. I have to constantly move things to use. I am out of space it will have to go. Need storage space can't find things lots of clutter.


I have my track saw table up and running, and it's pretty much replaced the RAS. particularly for wider panels - the RAS was limited to 12 - 14". The only thing I miss is being able to cut up longer pieces - I don't have the room to keep my miter saw set up all the time so struggle cutting long boards short enough to cut on the TS, either with the Incra miter gauge or the sled, so often wind up cutting the longer pieces to manageable length with a hand(powered) saw before moving over to the TS. I still do miss the RAS, kind of sorry I had to get rid of it but only had room for one.


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## BowlBit (Nov 2, 2009)

Big Problem with the Craftsman RAS is the head adjustment. First it is tricky to do, second if there is any play more than one degree off 90 in either direction the adjustment eccentrics are probably worn and won't stay adjusted. In trying to adjust them, you can tell if there is a problem due to the fact that the head will align, but the head binds in the track and won't move. The eccentric is what causes the slide to bind in the track because they (the eccentrics) are worn and won't position the head properly. 
I have had two in my life, both given to me and both went to the recycler's for cash. Best to just start with the basics, Table saw, router and table, and a 12" planer. You can do a lot of woodworking with just those tools.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick has the right price and as you can see by th comments that the RAS was basically replaced by the Sliding Miter Saw.
That said, I used the RAS all my career and have one like you are contemplate getting now and use it exclusively for crosscutting. I hate chop saws,the sliding miter saws are expensive to buy. For the price RAS are a steal. I do not rip on mine,as I have table saws for that. I bought mine for $35. 4 years ago and and use it every day, do all the crosscuting of boards up to 14" wide on it , Sheet goods I cut on the table saw. I do my Dado's on the TS also. So for me it is a saw set up to do cross cutting only. I agree with Stick on the blades as far as the carbide goes, but I use the same blades as the TS 80t cross cut blade on it. Saves having to take down the TS and change blades to cross cut. The cuts are glass smooth with the RAS

Herb


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

The Craftsman RAS I had was terrible. I would get it adjusted and 2,3, or maybe 4 cuts and it was out of adjustment. I would spent at least a hour getting it adjusted. The really bad thing is I kept that saw for several years. Boy was I a dummy. :surprise:


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