# Rockler plates - Why have they stopped making them?



## Greeneyedeagle (Feb 15, 2009)

I've been really debating about either a phenolic or aluminum router plate since I'm not happy anymore with the one I have. But why has Rockler stop making most of their plates...even the larger ones? Just curious. Really thought there would be lots more people out there making aluminum plates but seems to be very few. I might try to see what they have and the Charlotte show this coming weekend..but hate to get there and not any good deals to be had... cause I've got my old one out and its not going back in... and it that case.. I've lost out on a week of routing.:'(

Any they sure are proud of the aluminum ones.....


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

All I know is the phenolic/plastic plate with the inserts, to shrink the opening and allow for template guides flexed too much and the 2nd, wasn't configured for inserts. I did all the template routing out of table, which wasn't a lot.

The metal plate doesn't flex, it has all the inserts needed to do everything and I think the added weight of the plate helps stabilize/dampen vibration.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Rockler recently bought Bench Dog, so I'm assuming that's why they've "discontinued" their old aluminum plates, and have gone with the "new, larger" plates.

discontinued: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1385

new: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21299

There are, however, a number of other sources for plates.


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## Bdog (Mar 6, 2009)

Rockler is closing out the smaller plate they sell for $39.99. I tried two of these and both were warped. I sent them back and ordered the "new larger" plate. It is perfectly flat and works well. It is $59.99 though. Nice well made plate, can't imagine it could ever sag.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

why have they discontinued some plates? maybe it because most people want the phenolic plates for ease of use and mounting several routers to and the phenolic plates work great. look at what the old timers recommend. bobj recommends the harbor freight plates. i hope to get a new one soon. i have a rouseeau and it is flawless. it seems that people after they find the forum think for some reason that the most expensive is best. i ask anyone who with the most expensive tools to try and show me the jigs you have and the projects finished. you see its not what you have, its what you do with what you have.
we can disagree as long as we respect each others opinions as Mike says.


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## Greeneyedeagle (Feb 15, 2009)

Levon you make some good points and here I was about talked into an aluminum plate. I have a phenolic one but it has a type of tape measure made into it on both sides of the bit hole and it catches the wood sometimes. Plus after three to four years..it has a slight warp to it. The smooth surface plates look like they are a lot better..not to mention cheaper. the only drawback that I have to some of the ones that I have looked at it the centering rings are held down with 3 or more screws and to me, that would be a pain to change out when you needed to do a quick bit change of a larger or smaller size. And not sure if it makes a difference but the PC type brass guides need the 1 3/16 inset but some of the rings are 1 1/4..seems like that would throw things off a bit. I see that woodpeckers makes a phenolic plate with the snap-n-twist in type rings..maybe I'll take another look at them.
Thanks for your views.... besides... I've never had the "best" tools but I did what I had to do with the ones that I have and made it work.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Palmer,

i think the 1 1/4 inch you are referring to take the pc style guides. i may be wrong on that and if i am i am sure i will be corrected. when i buy the harbor freight plate, i ma going to drill out the center ring to accept the larger guides. the rousseau and the harbor freight plates dont have screws holding the rings in place, they just pop in. the hardest part is drilling the holes to mount the router dead on center. i used a centering kit that cost 5 bucks from rousseau. but each of us have our preferences . i dont think there is a wrong way. but im pretty cheap myself. lol


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## Bdog (Mar 6, 2009)

Didn't mean to raise your hackles Levon. I am a router rookie and was just relaying my experience with the Rockler aluminum plates. I was by no means implying that the "most expensive" is best. As someone just starting out, buying commercially available router table parts seems like the way to go. It gets you started and you can fine tune or build jigs, fences, etc. as you learn what you will need and how to use it. Same applies to bits, in my opinion.


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## Greeneyedeagle (Feb 15, 2009)

Thanks Bdog and Levon. I too must correct myself in saying that I didn't mean the "best". I was looking at a bigger picture of buying one "FLAT" plate and not have to buy another one....but as you have stated... the aluminum ones can be wrapped also. Now I know that I don't know what I am going to get?????


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

Bdog,

no hackles raised, lol. it can be daunting considering what to buy and being unsure of tackling some things that seem more difficult than you want to fool with as in drilling mounting holes in a plate. it took me research and luckily my first plate came with good instructions. i am in the process of building bobj's deluxe push block. when i first saw it i couldnt understand it and sure didnt want to tackle it. after studyiing it a long time lol, i understood it and now feel confident to build it. 

im pretty much a rookie myself, but have learned a lot on this forum. read all the posts you can. its amazing what you can pick up!


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## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

For what its worth the first and only plate I have owned is the large Rockler that I bought, with the Rockler top, fence etc three years ago. I have not had a problem with any of it.....but now you guys have got me to thinking I'd better go down in the morning and double check to make sure that baby is FLAT.
Maybe I'll have to invest in one of those digital flat-meters!


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Levon,
Jigs are for reproducing the same thing over and over again. Not everyone requires them for hobbies or a living unless they work for the Mill store sell at Flea markets or something like it. 

The quality of a jig should be relative to and based on the quality of its produce, not the materials it's made of or how elaborate it looks.

Many of the jigs I make are throw away or tear downs to re-use as something else.

I don't have the metal base plate because of its expense but because I was and still am convinced that its added weight has improved vibration dampening.

Bear in mind, the lift and router minus the plate weigh in around 37lbs, together 42lbs. 
I feel safer with the metal plate.


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## Greeneyedeagle (Feb 15, 2009)

I guess why I'm so into finding the right plate is that I feel that it is the heart of the table meaning..... everything else can be good but if the plate, like the one I currently have, has a warp to it.... it throws everything else off. Maybe I'm just making it harder than it is. But to buy a plate that is pre-drilled or to take lots of care and do it myself making sure it is centered... phenolic vs aluminum.... so many choises. I'm sure when its all over and done with... I'll be glad to just have a flat plate.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hello Ronald,

the reason im making that push block is to make box joints and after reading what bj said that this block would work on all 3 box joint jigs.

i do hope to be able to replace the face part after cutting into it awhile.

i dont have the metal plate either because several years ago when i built my table i got the rousseau. its currently on the pricey side at 60 bucks. im going to get a hf plate for 20 bucks and drill it out for the large guides.

im a cheap old ----,lol

im sure the weight will help with vibration. i ought a new craftsman to replace the pc 7529. it has the above table adjustment so it it light. i like the lightweight when i do pull it out of the tabel.

i never have had a problem with vibration and i think thats because of the weight of the table cabinet.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Palmer,

i tend to over think things and think lots of rookies do. we want to get a good product and also try and make installation as easy as possible. in all likelihood down the road you will be getting another plate and will see features you didnt know you wanted when you bought your first plate. get what you want and you will find your preferences after working with it for awhile. you can ask for advice and get a variety of answers. most of which will work great and be so different.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

If you want the best plate, buy a piece of 3/8" lexan and make your own.
Harbor Freight has a plate for $20. I haven't heard anyone complain about it sagging. I have a Rousseau plate, and the template for it. $60 or so for both and I can make router tables all day for it.
It isn't rocket science. Buy/make a plate and use it.


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

AxlMyk said:


> If you want the best plate, buy a piece of 3/8" lexan and make your own.
> Harbor Freight has a plate for $20. I haven't heard anyone complain about it sagging. I have a Rousseau plate, and the template for it. $60 or so for both and I can make router tables all day for it.
> It isn't rocket science. Buy/make a plate and use it.


I'm also a "newbie" getting ready to make his first router cabinet. I've got a Craftsman 17543. And while it's not rocket science, deciding whether to spend $20 or $70 DOES make a difference to me, since I'm not rolling in money.

Living near Atlanta, I have a HF, Rockler, Woodcraft and Peachtree USA store near me. They all have different products with different prices. My HF didn't have the insert, said I'd have to buy it online. Add shipping, and I'm better off buying the $30 PTreeUSA one locally.

What I can't understand, are ANY of the ones available pre-drilled for MY router?
Thanks
Bill


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Levon,
OK big time sorry! I totally missed the mention of and or relevance to base plate costs and materials via push block, jig quality and end results. 
What push block are you making? 

I'm currently, albeit slowly in the beginning stages of making wifey a new jewelry box, (old one is like 25yrs old. It'll require a couple new jigs and a different type, (for me) "A jig within a jig?¿". A jig that holds small inlay or any kind of template. I have some inlay and relief routing to do on the box. I've never done such small inlay and relief before, I may try the Lam router although I'm wondering if it'll be stabile enough for cutting through oak.

Greeneyed Eagle,
I don't know what the Bench dog base plate and the inserts cost by themselves, they came with the lift. If the lift had been offered with plate options, (phenolic/metal) I probably would have chosen the phenolic plate because it would have cut purchase costs.
I've cut the holes in 5 blank stock plates for hand held and table, even though they all fit, there's nothing like factory machined in my book.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Ronald,

im going to be making bobj's deluxe push block or my attempt at it. i started on it , messed up the handle and then decided to change some sizes.

i hope to get back started after i finish painting my birdhouse stand. the weather here has been wet for days and paint wont dry. its supposed to clear today and if i have time after work, i may finish it. 

as far as the push block i think it will make my first attempt at box joints safer.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I don't do a lot of box work, I don't have a dovetail jig so pretty much all my joints are fingers and occasionally miter and spline. 

I use the miter gauge and have 1 board with 4 prefab joints set up at the corners. 
1/8, 3/16, 1/4 and 3/8, I orient the board for the size joint I want and rescrew it to the miter gauge.

I feel pretty safe with this method and it produces tight joint whether on the router or TS.


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## bruce thom (Apr 2, 2008)

I think Rockler bot out the competition namely bench dog......


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## hgporter (Feb 26, 2007)

I have an INCRA Magna-Loc throat plate. I got is free with a package. I think individually it is $89 from Incra. You could probably get a better deal on Amazon.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

levon I made bobj3 deluxe push block and it works fine for all finger joints.

Regarding the plate, I bought a $20 phenolic one and there is no sagging

Nicolas


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Lets review the information on mounting plates. The most popular plate in the world is the Rousseau, and it has been around over 15 years. It is phenolic and guaranteed not to warp. It features one patented difference from all other plates, it is slightly convex. This assures that the wood always passes the bit at the same height. This is the plate Norm used for the first 10 years on the NYW. When Rockler sponsored him he had to build a new table using their components. There are many clones of the Rousseau plate, all of which are flat. Not all are the same dimensions. Woodpeckers has one with a yellow insert ring, Harbor Freight offers one as well. I had one HF plate that came with a built in sag, no good. I have installed many of the Rousseau plates and they have all been trouble free. Some complained that the insert rings were too difficult to remove because of the tight fit. Duh, it has to be tight to keep working. Aluminum plates are a popular choice and should not sag, but they can be bent. Rockler changed suppliers which is why they discontinued the old plates. The Router Workshop plates are phenolic and do not sag. They have provision for the larger and more useful Oak Park style guide bushings. They do not offer the removeable insert feature which is handy. You need a second plate with the large opening for raised panel bits. Not a big deal. Which of the plates is best? The one that gets used. They all work. Plates from Oak Park are predrilled to fit most routers. Most others need to be drilled, but this is a simple process described elsewhere on the forums.


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## Rooky (May 1, 2008)

I ended up with a aluminum plate from Rockler - used to have a black Rousseau that was fine or always seemed to be. Then when I added an Incra Ultra I realized it had a slight dome in the center. Never was aware of it causing a problem until the first few dovetails --- put 2 staright edges on it and yep.
Now I imagine they should have some (?) due the weight of a router being often 8-10# plus but my big Freud didn't pull it down so I dunno....

Local Rockler guys said to me they had discontinued the larger plate like mine - 13x9 - to go with the "benchdog" standard. Sounded odd but maybe me thinking out loud. What ticked me off was I bought 2 of these last fall and they don't even have a starter pin available unless you buy a $25 "kit". I need 2 - won't happen for a $.40 pin. And a template to cut out the hole --- another "unavailable" and discontinued. That was fine as I made one up but come on Rockler. You been doing this way to often. 
Rockler's Corporate office is up the road a mile or so and I will be stopping in to drop off a hand delivered letter. This has occured to often to me with their products and I am slightly cranky about it. LOL

Nice forum and lots of info here. Great job!


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

I needed a plate and decided that my time is worth more than building one. I ended up with the smaller Rockler aluminum plate, the discontinued model. I was able to find it at one of the local Rockler stores for $25. Tolerances are pretty good, not perfect, but good.

About the starter pin: Isn't it possible to fashion a bolt to thread into a hole on the table insert plate? That is my initial strategy, cut the head off a shanked bolt and screw it into the supplied threaded hole. Am I missing something here?


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

kolias said:


> levon I made bobj3 deluxe push block and it works fine for all finger joints.
> 
> Regarding the plate, I bought a $20 phenolic one and there is no sagging
> 
> Nicolas



hello Nicolas,

the push block does work good, it took me a little while to build it and im glad i did. 

if i were buying a new plate, i would get the one from hf. 20 bucks.
ive had my plate for several years and its the same as the hf only costs a little more. 

ive ordered replacement rings for my plate so i can drill it out to 1 1/2 inches for the larger guides.

and as far as jigs and fixtures like BobJ's pushblock, i have been going through BobJ's gallery for the past few days bookmarking and copying jigs and suggestions he has made. im up to about 130.


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## Rooky (May 1, 2008)

westend said:


> About the starter pin: Isn't it possible to fashion a bolt to thread into a hole on the table insert plate? That is my initial strategy, cut the head off a shanked bolt and screw it into the supplied threaded hole. Am I missing something here?


Maybe your threads different than mine? but having tried so many different threads I'm thinking it is some funky metric I don't have. I've been careful but 
fear the dang thing is cross threaded inside and I may end up tapping a new hole.

Everything can be done - just ticks me off that I had no clue they were about to drop these plates like a hot potato almost the same day I bought mine. I didn't get a price break either other than a $10 off with a coupon. On 1 plate, not both. They darn things were almost the same price as Woodpecker plate but I wanted now. Stupid move.
Oh well - life moved on.

If you find the thread is non-metric please let me know as maybe they didn't tap the darn things right either. That'd be funny -not :'(


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Rooky said:


> Maybe your threads different than mine? but having tried so many different threads I'm thinking it is some funky metric I don't have. I've been careful but
> fear the dang thing is cross threaded inside and I may end up tapping a new hole.
> 
> Everything can be done - just ticks me off that I had no clue they were about to drop these plates like a hot potato almost the same day I bought mine. I didn't get a price break either other than a $10 off with a coupon. On 1 plate, not both. They darn things were almost the same price as Woodpecker plate but I wanted now. Stupid move.
> ...


Rooky, Just checked the holes and they are 6mm, metric but the tapped hole is a bit oversized. I don't know if they cut them a little deeper because of anodizing but they are a little sloppy. No problem, really. A nut and washer fastened on the bottom will insure no movement or a wrap of teflon tape will do it from the top.

I understand what you're saying about Rockler, it is a challenge to keep up with pricing and availability. They do run some good sales, now and again. The trick is to figure what the scheduled dates are for the sales and if your coupons are valid with those items. When I bought the insert plate, I was thinking I'd buy another $25 of merchandise to enable use of the -$15 coupon. No dice, clearance items don't qualify. Had to settle for one winner rather than the "trifecta". :no:


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Not to worry if your mounting threads are stripped or cross threaded, simply drill them out. As long as the pin extends through the plate it will not jump out. Most brands do not use threads for the pins.


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## The Illustrator (Feb 25, 2009)

*aluminum plate*

Hey guys I see some of y'all talking about aluminum plates. I just upgraded my 17yr craftsman’s router with a new Ryobi R163. Only problem is that it will not mount up to my old craftsman’s table. So I'm thinking of making my own table. I already know how I want it, but as far as the table plate I was gona go to my buds fab shop and get a 12" x 12" x 1/4' or 3/8" aluminum plate and drill my holes in it. I got the recessed mounting blots for the table and router, only thing is the center hold. I have no inserts so I was just gona drill out a single hole of about 2 1/2" or 3" in diam, this should work ok I think. If noting else I can order a replacement plate from Ryobi from on of there tables. So please give me some input on this guys, thanks.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Scott, Mounting plates are often used with guide bushings. Some of the plates have removeable centers of differing sizes to allow clearance for larger bits. Do a bit of reading on the forums to determine if you want to use PC style or Oak Park style bushings, I would suggest the larger Oak Park style since it's through hole is 1-1/2" and will accomodate most bits. You would need a second plate if you plan on using raised panel bits, the opening for these would be up to 3-1/2".


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## The Illustrator (Feb 25, 2009)

Mike said:


> Scott, Mounting plates are often used with guide bushings. Some of the plates have removeable centers of differing sizes to allow clearance for larger bits. Do a bit of reading on the forums to determine if you want to use PC style or Oak Park style bushings, I would suggest the larger Oak Park style since it's through hole is 1-1/2" and will accomodate most bits. You would need a second plate if you plan on using raised panel bits, the opening for these would be up to 3-1/2".


Hey Mike thanks for answering me. not thinking when I posted this, I put it on a thread started by someone else and I didn't see a way to delete or remove it, so I reposted it on a new thread, lol. I'm a greeny here, well thanks and the info.


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## Rooky (May 1, 2008)

westend said:


> Rooky, Just checked the holes and they are 6mm, metric but the tapped hole is a bit oversized. I don't know if they cut them a little deeper because of anodizing but they are a little sloppy. No problem, really. A nut and washer fastened on the bottom will insure no movement or a wrap of teflon tape will do it from the top.
> 
> I understand what you're saying about Rockler, it is a challenge to keep up with pricing and availability. They do run some good sales, now and again. The trick is to figure what the scheduled dates are for the sales and if your coupons are valid with those items. When I bought the insert plate, I was thinking I'd buy another $25 of merchandise to enable use of the -$15 coupon. No dice, clearance items don't qualify. Had to settle for one winner rather than the "trifecta". :no:


Thank you --- explains some of the mystery to me

Looks like we may be neighbors .... my wife grew up in Cottagewood, about a block-ish from the General Store. Her Mom's still there and we only a few miles away. Small small world it seems


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Rooky said:


> Thank you --- explains some of the mystery to me
> 
> Looks like we may be neighbors .... my wife grew up in Cottagewood, about a block-ish from the General Store. Her Mom's still there and we only a few miles away. Small small world it seems


You're welcome. Adding to the mystery that is Rockler, I stopped in again to get a pattern bit, told them that I had forgot my coupon, "no problem", they said. When I accumulated other items to total $50 (in order to enable coupon), I was told, "sorry, those are for sale items and the coupon won't work". The clerk was in mid-tally and upon finalizing the total, the coupon was honored. 
It gets to be pretty hard for the customer to figure pricing when the employees and the company software don't know how it all works. In this case it worked to my favor. Next time, who knows. I am going to start buying online with more frequency.

I think the last time I was by the Cottagewood store, it was a restaurant of some sort. Where in MN are you? I live West of Excelsior. Small world, indeed.


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## Rooky (May 1, 2008)

westend said:


> I think the last time I was by the Cottagewood store, it was a restaurant of some sort. Where in MN are you? I live West of Excelsior. Small world, indeed.



Still is a restaurant of sorts- limited menu, great burgers on Friday nights. The store is community owned nowadays which is pretty unique and cool.

Do you know Ridgedale area? Redstone's on the south side and I'm up on hill above - pretty much between the YMCA sitting back there and Redstone. Morneau could probably smash one thru my window if he was hitting from the top of the building. :yes4: 

You on the water? I can only dream I am .....


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Rooky said:


> Still is a restaurant of sorts- limited menu, great burgers on Friday nights. The store is community owned nowadays which is pretty unique and cool.
> 
> Do you know Ridgedale area? Redstone's on the south side and I'm up on hill above - pretty much between the YMCA sitting back there and Redstone. Morneau could probably smash one thru my window if he was hitting from the top of the building. :yes4:
> 
> You on the water? I can only dream I am .....


Oak Knoll and Sherwood Forest (?), IIRC. Sure, I know the area. When I was a wee lad, Mrs. Dow would cook us the crayfish we caught in the pond that is adjacent
to Ridgedale. Ahh, fond memories... I'll have to try the Store one of these Friday nights. Burgers sound good.

Everyone around here is on the water, just dig down a foot. :lol:
I live between Lake Minnetonka and Lake Minnewashta. I was on the Lake for a few years, back when (Halsteads Bay). I spent a lot of time on the water. Worked for the LMCD Milfoil operation so I worked out there, as well. 

To get back on topic, below are some pics of my finished top. There is a lot of Rockler in it. I had to have some kind of jumping off spot and they had a lot of the pieces to get me going. The aluminum plate is mounted onto 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF. The fence is pretty close to Ron Fox's design. I have a cabinet of sorts already built and will modify that for a stand. I used the fence and table to rabbet the fence cheeks for the T track. It worked great. Good luck on your table.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Reading the details on coupons is a good idea, lets try to stay on subject. PM's or the Lobby is the place for off topic discussions. Don't take offense to this, just trying to stay organised.


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## Rooky (May 1, 2008)

Lance - purty lookin' table! I'll try to post up some pics of mine over weekend. I've not tossed in a miter track yet on the table - find you use it much? It's something I thought about but never did incorpoarte into design. 
I glued up 2 pieces of 3/4" and topped off both sides with some laminate too - the thing is 28" x 43" and heavy as can be. Noticing something weird on the INCRA ULTRA --- it seems to have some flex or slight give when I press solid on it. Maybe it won't be an issue in use but odd it seems.
Anyhoots... nice work ya done. BTW - ya know the area here well. 
O'er and out from the Heart of the Forest. I'll change my sig to Robin Hood. lol

Gotcha Mike on what ya said.....sorry to stray like a wayward dog


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Yes, sorry to get off topic into the small world of connectivity.

Rooky,
The Track on the front serves mainly for jigs and such. I'm in the camp of "2 complicated 4 me" on miter gauges. I use one for my saw but don't think I'll need one for the router table. My ideas on that might change. I have no experience with Incra guages or fences. I do use some of their measuring devices. They seem like a quality outfit.

I'm basically a "measure and tap it" kind of a guy. The exotic dials and digital screens for measuring seem to be overkill, IMO.


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## hgporter (Feb 26, 2007)

westend said:


> ...
> 
> I'm basically a "measure and tap it" kind of a guy. The exotic dials and digital screens for measuring seem to be overkill, IMO.


I was basically a "measure and tap it, and measure and tap it, and measure and tap it" kind of a guy too. Then I got the INCRA LS Positioner. Westend, it truly makes life at the router table much more enjoyable. I'm still not into the exotic dials and digital screens. And I'm not an INCRA roadie. But this one product is worth to me what I paid for it. Yes, you can route without it. However, if you do a lot of joinery, boxes, etc I recommend looking seriously at it.

You may still be a measure and tap, and measure and tap, and measure and tap kind of guy. To each his own pleasure at the router table.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I use the Incra system on my table saw FAR more than on the router table. The measure and tap was a horrible way to come back 2 weeks later and try to get an exact duplicate of a piece, which I must be able to do. It just is not possible to get exactly repeatable results using the tap the fence method. I used it for years with the Beisemeyer fence which is nice and wasted way to much time and material trying.

The Incra fence , especially for the table saw is not overkill at all, just accurate and precise, every time. Once I went to the Incra saw fence I could never go back to anything less.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

nickao65 said:


> I use the Incra system on my table saw FAR more than on the router table. The measure and tap was a horrible way to come back 2 weeks later and try to get an exact duplicate of a piece, which I must be able to do. It just is not possible to get exactly repeatable results using the tap the fence method. I used it for years with the Beisemeyer fence which is nice and wasted way to much time and material trying.
> 
> The Incra fence , especially for the table saw is not overkill at all, just accurate and precise, every time. Once I went to the Incra saw fence I could never go back to anything less.


Thanks for the heads-up on the Incra fence, guys. I am actually looking for a new fence and miter guide for my aged Rockwell-Delta table saw. The Incra is definitely towards the top on my short list.

I know I've developed some inefficient habits in my work methods, especially woodworking. A history of house framing doesn't necesarily help towards precision.  I haven't had the opportunity, either, to devote as much time to woodworking as I'd like. For instance, here's how I deal with repeatability: cut my work on various saws, using a sample piece. Continue with project. Return to saw to cut another piece. Scour shop looking for said sample, hoping it hasn't reached the wood stove yet, use sample to set fence. As I mentioned, I'm looking to upgrade my tools. Don't know how quickly or how much the "tap and shoot" method will dissipate but I'm moving along, here.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Cutting a sample piece is the way to go. Even with the Incra fence I have loads of sample templates for every shape I cut. I have them all in the same place grouped together for each project I may remake.


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## Rooky (May 1, 2008)

Been battling the same demons Lance. I was a rough guy and even the interior finishing I had a guy do for me in past.
Learning the differences between being a tradesman and a WW'er is night and day different. Starting to think I liked the wrap and tap and move on of yesteryear more


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