# Contact Cement for MDF



## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Folks:

A question about using contact cement for adhering plastic laminate (Formica) to MDF: which types of contact cement are safe to use with both the laminate and the MDF? I have some water-based (solvent-free) contact cement. Knowing MDF is a water sponge, would it be safe to use the water-base contact cement? Or should one use only the solvent-based contact cement?

The project is my router table top (24 x 48 inch comprised of MDF core with red oak trim.)

Many Thanks,
Cassandra


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cassandra

Give the 3M contact cement a try,,it comes in a big spray can, it many types . I like to use the super 3Mx,it can hold the bumper off your truck to your wood stock..  no muss no fuss..

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Cassandra said:


> Hi Folks:
> 
> A question about using contact cement for adhering plastic laminate (Formica) to MDF: which types of contact cement are safe to use with both the laminate and the MDF? I have some water-based (solvent-free) contact cement. Knowing MDF is a water sponge, would it be safe to use the water-base contact cement? Or should one use only the solvent-based contact cement?
> 
> ...


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Hi Cassandra,

I don't know about water based contact cements, but for my router table top I used the DAP gel based contact cement to glue my MDF pieces together as well as the Formica on top and bottom of the MDF. It worked very well. I used a 99 cent bristle brush to put it on and just threw it away when finished.
DAP at Lowe's: Quart Weldwood® Gel Formula Contact Cement


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Also thought I would reference the post from my router table build, in the event you may find it useful 

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/16183-router-table-cabinet-build.html#post131959


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Thanks, Bob and Frank, for you comments.

I have an unopened can of LePages Res-tite Green Contact Cement (water-based) that I'll try on the table top.

Cassandra


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## MinConst (Sep 16, 2009)

If you want good contact cement use the solvent based products. They havent perfected the water based stuff yet.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

MinConst said:


> If you want good contact cement use the solvent based products. They havent perfected the water based stuff yet.


 Hi Paul:

Thanks for your remarks. Curious about the imperfectio of the water-based cement. I'll have to look into it further.

Cassandra


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Cassandra,
The Weldwood is what I use. I use a roller, applying two coats, let the first one dry before applying the second. I do my glue up outside on the carport. Don't have to wait for the fumes to clear the shop. I tried the water based stuff , but it didn't hold as well.
Harry


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Thanks, Harry. 

I appreciate everyone's comments.

Cassandra


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## the_nite_owl (Oct 19, 2009)

*Water based contact cement*



Cassandra said:


> Thanks, Harry.
> 
> I appreciate everyone's comments.
> 
> Cassandra


Cassandra, I am curious if you used the water based contact cement and how it worked for you on the MDF and anything else you may have used it on.

Trent


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

the_nite_owl said:


> Cassandra, I am curious if you used the water based contact cement and how it worked for you on the MDF and anything else you may have used it on.
> 
> Trent


 Hi Trent:

Have not got that far yet. Based on the comments above and elsewhere, I am giving the water-based CC a miss. 

I tried looking for the 3M product, but it's not being sold locally, without special order. Even contacted 3M and they gave me a list of distributors local to where I'm at. These distributors will order it from 3M, but don't stock it.

Cassandra


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## Twill57 (Jun 8, 2009)

I have used DAP Weldwood solvent based contact cement for quite some time. You do need very good ventilation, but I have never had any delamination problems.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Cassandra...

I've used the spray on stuff, with fair to middlin' results, but the projects were hit or miss to begin with. I've used the water based stuff enough to not want to use it anymore. Weldwood gets my vote. I did a formica to mdf top a while back and the stuff worked great. The second coat thing is an excellent tip!!! I will tell you that during the curing process the 3/4" MDF warped about a 1/4" over a 48" plane. I've been told since that I should have weighted down the formica while the glue set up. Makes sense to me..good luck


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Thanks, Bill! I'll keep your comments in mind when the time comes to laminate my top.

Cassandra


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

Go figure you got to read the can!! I never knew that their is water based contact cement
I just read contact cement and used it....ah well 
all I can say is that its still suck like its supposed to be.
thanks for opening my eyes. I kinda feel a little sheepish.... like duh!!!:blink:


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Folks:

Well, it's been a while since deciding to use a solvent-based adhesive. Have been waiting for the weather to warm up enough to permit the application of lamination to the router top, while working outdoors. Patience has been rewarded. 

On Good Friday, with the weather at 25C (77F) and the relative humidity at 49 per cent, I tried my hand at applying a 24"x48" laminate skin to the router top. Ouch! The weather was too dry! I couldn't get the contact cement (LePage's Pre-Tite Blue) on fast enough -- the stuff was drying as the brush was moving. Managed to get two coats of the CC on both surfaces. 

Then applied the laminate on the router top and used the J-roller. Running my hands over the laminate surface, I could feel hills and valleys. Not too pleased was I. The laminate was still within a couple of thou of flatness, but I wasn’t happy. Good thing I had chosen the bottom surface of the router top to practice on. 

I was also not pleased with the cleanup process.

I put the project away until today (Easter Sunday.) Weather more cooperative – 20C (68F) and not so dry. A bit of a breeze played teasingly on the project pieces. For the application of the top laminate I decided (urged on by an email from BigJimAK) to try a spray adhesive. So, I bought a tin of _3m Hi Strength 90 spray adhesive_. 

Two coats (criss-crossed as recommended by 3M) applied to both surfaces. Scraped the two surfaces (forgot to do this on the first laminate.) Then mated the two surfaces and pressed with J-roller. Beautiful! Flat. No hills and no valleys to complain of. 

Also, no complaint about the cleanup this time. Drop the spray nozzle in turpentine for a little while and wipe off the adhesive from the nozzle. 

Thanks to all who suggested spray adhesive. It’s expensive, but pays for itself in ease of use and ease of cleanup.

Cassandra


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

25C!!!!!
How dare you complain!:'(


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

About 12 or 13 years ago solvent based contact adhesive was banned and replaced by water based which was quite hopeless, and eventually the genuine article reappeared. I only use the gel, it's easy to apply and spread with no drips. I can't imagine why yours dried so fast, here in western Australia the temperatures reach FAR higher than that quoted as can be the humidity.


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## Tellefan (Feb 22, 2009)

You stated that you scraped both surfaces, did you do that to make it more even (cleaned off the glops)? I'm getting ready to make my top by laminating 1/2" MDF to 3/4" MDF and top it with Corian then put on oak edges. 

Do you think if I seal up the bottom and the plate cut out with poly it will be OK?

I really don't want to put Corian on the bottom also.

Thank you,
David


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

David,

The important thing on sealing the bottom is to control the rate of transmission of moisture.. You can use anything that will approximate the moisture-blocking of your Corian.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Tellefan said:


> You stated that you scraped both surfaces, did you do that to make it more even (cleaned off the glops)? I'm getting ready to make my top by laminating 1/2" MDF to 3/4" MDF and top it with Corian then put on oak edges.
> 
> Do you think if I seal up the bottom and the plate cut out with poly it will be OK?
> 
> ...


Hi David:

Welcome to the forums!

The reason for scraping the contact cement is to remove lumps ("glops") and level out the contact cement layers. I had forgotten to do this step on the first surface and ended up with the hills and valleys.

It is generally accepted by the pros that for MDF cores, one should seal the top and bottom in similar manners. Since I was laminating the top, I needed to laminate the bottom. The reason is to balance the moisture infiltration/escape between the two surfaces. This reduces the chance of warpage to moisture.

*Edit:* After re-reading your post, David, I add: The bottom surface should be sealed to the same degree as the top. It does not need to be the same material, but the bottom sealant needs to seal pretty much the same as the top sealant. 

Cassandra


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

David,

The scraping is done before applying the adhesive to roughen up the surface and give the adhesive a better surface to adhere.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

BigJimAK said:


> David,
> 
> The scraping is done before applying the adhesive to roughen up the surface and give the adhesive a better surface to adhere.


Hey, Jim:

The scraping that I was talking about was the one done _after_ applying the contact cement, to remove the glops. Prior to applying the contact cement, I do a light sanding to rough up the surface so the contact cement can bond well.

Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi David:

The steps I take are:
1. Make sure surfaces are greasefree, dirtfree, et cetera and mate prorperly.
2. Lightly sand the smooth surfaces (especially MDF.)
3. Vacuum and dry wipe the surfaces to remove the sanding dust.
4. Apply the contact cement.
5. Scrape the contact cement.
6. Mate the surfaces, using separators to help the mating and positioning.
7. Use a J-roller to press the laminate down.
8. Use hammer and block to try to flatten any hills. (Not that successfully.)
9. Using a trim bit in my router, trim the laminate.

Cassandra


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Cassandra said:


> Hey, Jim:
> 
> The scraping that I was talking about was the one done _after_ applying the contact cement, to remove the glops. Prior to applying the contact cement, I do a light sanding to rough up the surface so the contact cement can bond well.
> 
> Cassandra


Ah yes.. glop patrol..


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## Tellefan (Feb 22, 2009)

Thank you ALL for the info. I now need to get off my lazy butt and build it. I've spent more time reading up on the matter than it will take to build!

Thanks also for the warm welcome.

David


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

You're very welcome, David! Glad to be of help.

Cassandra


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

dustmaker said:


> Hi Cassandra,
> 
> I don't know about water based contact cements, but for my router table top I used the DAP gel based contact cement to glue my MDF pieces together as well as the Formica on top and bottom of the MDF. It worked very well. I used a 99 cent bristle brush to put it on and just threw it away when finished.
> DAP at Lowe's: Quart Weldwood® Gel Formula Contact Cement



+ 1 on that suggestion.
But, I would recommend letting the first coat dry, then add a lighter coat over the first. The MDF seems to soak up too much of the first coat to allow a good bond without a 2nd application.
Just my opinion though, although it is based on past experience.


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## cowtown_eric (Apr 30, 2010)

*puzzled...*



MinConst said:


> If you want good contact cement use the solvent based products. They havent perfected the water based stuff yet.


Hmmm. got details on them thar imperfections in water based contact what you mentioned to share with us?? In 15 years of using water base contact for countertops, the only failure I've had was attribuitable to now letting it dry thoroughly. and that was on vertical surface melamine which I hadn't roughened or removed any release agents on the surface....my fault. After all it was 2am. 

The only other characteristic that I can think of is that the water content does seem to cause a tad of swelling of the substrate, which when it comes to the edging, means that the perfectly filed joint ain't so perfectly filed the next day when presumably the moisture has disapated, causing the edging to shrink back a tad.

In the shop I now use spray solvent based contact for edging, primarily for speed, water based for the large flat surfaces (whizzer rollers, don toss em out, just toss em back in the can awaiting the next job), oh and from the odd time contact is made when the laminate ain't properly positioned, let me tell ya that it takes a tad of gentle pulling and a sharp knife to free the errant piece. No worries about failure in my mind.

Water base contact is just fine. and less stinky.It works for me.

Eric


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