# Template tutorial for beginners



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This thread is to demonstrate how I make templates. I normally use 9mm MDF which is close to 3/8" and is easy to work with, low in cost and does not warp like wood. I'll start with the most simple form of template, the circle, for which I use a circle routing jig, which can be as simple as the easily made one shown here, or the more versatile one that that I use for all my circle routing.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This zip file shows the making of a coin tray including the making of a template for routing a round opening. Before we can make the template it's necessary to know three things, the diameter of the finished hole/opening, the diameter of the template guide that we intend to use and lastly, the diameter of the chosen bit. If the finished hole/opening is to be 5", the template guide 1.5" and the bit 0.5" then, guide diameter minus the bit diameter plus diameter of the finished hole/opening equals the size of hole in the template. Thus for the 5" finished size we have: 1.5" - 0.5" + 5" = 6" hole in the template.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Next we produce a template for routing a square/rectangular hole/opening, the calculation is the same as above, diameter of the template guide minus diameter of the bit plus the size of the finished hole/opening. I keep repeating the simple formula so that it becomes second nature to you, making charts unnecessary. Take a look at shot #19 in the coin tray zip file, notice that the bit has been changed to a 3/8", this is because we want the the wall thickness to be 3/16" and this is where we use the word "offset", which is the distance from the edge of the template guide and the cutting edge of the bit, so, to calculate the offset, it's similar to what we have discussed and is: template guide diameter minus diameter of the bit divided by two. For the coin tray it was 1 1/8" - 3/8" ÷ 2 = 3/16", simple!


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Finally we'll become more adventurous and make a copy of a small French balloon clock. This zip file includes the design and making of the templates using the techniques that you have just learned.
For most of my small projects I make templates 300mm x 400mm which is close to 12" x 15" and these fit into a template holder which is a tray made from 2" x 1" into which I place a jig which holds the workpiece securely. For the clock I chose a cam jig for securing the workpiece but I often simply pin a piece of scrap MDF or wood on each side as shown. The main reason that I use 300mm x 400mm templates is that I can buy MDF 300mm wide which makes it far easier to get home than a large sheet which then has to be manoeuvred onto the saw table.


----------



## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

You make a fine teacher Harry. I'm sure that those with less experience will benefit immensely from your efforts. In fact, you've taught me a few things along the way.

Thankyou,

Charley


----------



## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

*Thanks Harry, that's some valuable info you sharing with us rookies! *


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thank you guys, like many members, I'm happy to share what I have.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Another great tutorial.

Thanks Harry.

You can certainly show us young'uns a thing or two.


----------



## pal (Feb 13, 2008)

Top quality tutorial as usual Harry, they are all greatly appreciated. :thank_you2:

Regards 

Harold


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thanks James and Harold, the best appreciation is always when beginners show not only what they've achieved but HOW they achieved it, complete with some photographs.

Harold, I know this is a long shot but I recently lost a Hungarian friend of 44 years standing whose name was Jacomo (Jimmy) Pal, a television technician like myself married to Rosika. Any relation? I probably wouldn't have asked except that you look Hungarian.


----------



## hilltopper46 (Feb 27, 2010)

I want to add my thank you to this thread. Very helpful stuff.


----------



## pal (Feb 13, 2008)

Hi harry, :no: not hungarian:haha: just a true blue oz caught in the headlights of an on coming car. 


Regards

Harold


----------



## speri (Nov 4, 2009)

Thanks Harry.
Very useful and helpful,interesting to see how you figure it out.
I´ve learnt a lot.
Best regards,Sergio.


----------



## greybeard72 (Apr 13, 2011)

What a great lot of info!


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thanks again guys, don't forget, any questions will be answered and NO QUESTION is considered stupid.


----------



## applied (Aug 20, 2010)

It is great to have folks like you to show us the way with a glimpse at your work and experience. Thank you Harry for your postings!


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

It really is my pleasure Jorge, being well into retirement I have time to pass on whatever knowledge and experience that I have acquired over a very long period and I attempt to do this in an easy to understand way, most of us agree that a picture is worth a thousand words. By the way, welcome to the forum.


----------



## macnalty (Aug 6, 2011)

Thanks Harry for these great write ups it is much appreciated, can you talk about the time you use to make sure all that your material is square, and what you do when it is not? I have lately found myself leaving out this important step and continue to fight this oversight till the end of the project.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thanks for your nice comments Mark. There are members far more experienced than me who can guide you on the squareness problem. So far as I'm personally concerned, I rely on my accurately set-up radial arm saw, and have done for so many years that I really can't remember what life was like without the RAS.


----------



## macnalty (Aug 6, 2011)

I was under the same umbrella and then I decided to recycle some wood from an old kitchen, I was chasing squaring problems all day, I finally took the extra time to plane and joiner each piece, it sounds like a lot of work and I am sure there is probably some wasted steps is the reason I asked. Are you still in Television, I used to work for a hardware vendor for Sony, Ikegami, Panasonic for commercial stations here in the states. Having a hot summer down here in Dallas, Tx this year, nothing like you Ozzies get but enough to make it miserable outside most of the time. Thanks again for organizing this wonderful forum. Cheers


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thanks for your kind remarks Mark. I retired in 2000 after a little over 50 years in the industry and passed the business to our son, but after about three of four years the flood gates opened on cheap imported VCR's and TV's from places like Korea and Malaysia, making repairs to these items uneconomic. I remember making a bet with a marketing manager of an international electronics company after he assured me that within 12 to 18 months the Australian price of a top end VCR would drop from it's present $250.00 or so to sub $100.00 as he claimed they could at that time be bought at American stores at the checkout for $99.00! I of course lost the bet.
Lots of 1/4" reel to reel Sony and Ikegami black and white video recorders were sold out here mainly to schools. Panasonic had a model that shot the leader tape through a tunnel then self threaded. Those were interesting days where keeping up with technology was no problem, but by the time that I retired it was a struggle and I passed problem jobs to my techs!


----------



## macnalty (Aug 6, 2011)

I would welcome any advice about groove creation for kitchen drawer bottoms, I currently use 1/2 plywood hardwood for my bottoms and have been using the table saw as my quantity has been minimal, now I have a need for more drawers and would like to use my router for a better fit any setup ideas would be greatly appreciated as I have made some mistakes an know someone has been down this road before me and learned the ropes. Love this forum, Cheers


----------



## FixitMike (Aug 14, 2011)

Sounds like a good excuse to get a dado blade for your table saw. I find that cutting a groove with a router is a lot slower, even on a table router, although I often do it because the setup is faster.

If you use a straight bit to cut, be sure to clamp a fingerboard to the fence. If you are using a slot cutter, clamp a fingerboard to the table.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Mark, most plywood is not the actual dimension it is sold as. This is because of advances in the product that give the same strength with slightly less thickness. You can purchase "plywood" bits which match perfectly. They are called 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" plywood bits.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

macnalty said:


> I would welcome any advice about groove creation for kitchen drawer bottoms, I currently use 1/2 plywood hardwood for my bottoms and have been using the table saw as my quantity has been minimal, now I have a need for more drawers and would like to use my router for a better fit any setup ideas would be greatly appreciated as I have made some mistakes an know someone has been down this road before me and learned the ropes. Love this forum, Cheers


Hi Mark, are you talking about the grooves placed in the ends and sides to "float" the bottom? If you are making plywood drawers, you really don't need to float the bottom panels. On plywood drawers/boxes I just use locking rabbets and glue them up. Adds a lot to the ridigidty and gives some additional depth. 
If you are talking about dados in the bottom and sides/ends to locate and retain drawer dividers, I use guide strips and template guide bushings in a hand held router.


----------



## mumbo (Feb 1, 2012)

Harry,

As a new user I responded to the email I was sent today.....but there seems to be some confusion with your video. The still shots in this discussion do not represent the video. The video seems to show how to use a jig.....not how to cut one. Is it just me?

Loyd


----------



## macnalty (Aug 6, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Hi Mark, are you talking about the grooves placed in the ends and sides to "float" the bottom? If you are making plywood drawers, you really don't need to float the bottom panels. On plywood drawers/boxes I just use locking rabbets and glue them up. Adds a lot to the ridigidty and gives some additional depth.
> If you are talking about dados in the bottom and sides/ends to locate and retain drawer dividers, I use guide strips and template guide bushings in a hand held router.


Thanks John, I have been dovetailing my drawers and using 1/2 inch plywood bottoms trying for a snug fit and gluing them. I was frankly needing to adventure some more as the dovetails are wearing me out mentally trying to get them perfect (I am too picky) my side pieces I try to reclaim from the demo(not plywood), would love to use my router more and this forum makes me smile when I see all the things I have to look forward to this year, I love the precision everyone exhibits in these tutorials, hope everyone had a great holiday and good new year. Has someone done a review of the new bits that seem to be coming out this year? Cheers Mark


----------



## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Mike said:


> Mark, most plywood is not the actual dimension it is sold as. This is because of advances in the product that give the same strength with slightly less thickness. You can purchase "plywood" bits which match perfectly. They are called 3/8", 1/2" and 3/4" plywood bits.


One of the better bit packages sold at MLCS. I've used them for panel dadoes and most of my sheets are a very good fit, even 18mm Baltic Birch:MLCS plywood bit set


----------



## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

I own the MLCS plywood bit set and have been pleased with it. I also own freud dado set for TS. Like John I use router for a few and TS for many


----------



## olwudwurker (Mar 16, 2011)

Great job as usual Harry. I appreciate seeing your input on the forum.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

macnalty said:


> Thanks John, I have been dovetailing my drawers and using 1/2 inch plywood bottoms trying for a snug fit and gluing them. I was frankly needing to adventure some more as the dovetails are wearing me out mentally trying to get them perfect (I am too picky) my side pieces I try to reclaim from the demo(not plywood), would love to use my router more and this forum makes me smile when I see all the things I have to look forward to this year, I love the precision everyone exhibits in these tutorials, hope everyone had a great holiday and good new year. Has someone done a review of the new bits that seem to be coming out this year? Cheers Mark


Mark, I rout the grooves in the conventional way on the router table as shown. a normal sharp straight bit has never caused me any problems and if I don't have a bit of the exact size, I use the closest smaller one and, using a hand plane taper the three edges of the bottom panel. This way the fit can be as tight or loose as you wish. By the way, I was taught to never glue the bottom, but to pin them in place at the rear. This shot of the non-precision draw under my wood lathe shows what I mean. Using this method allows the bottom to be easily replaced.


----------



## mumbo (Feb 1, 2012)

Hi Harry,

Sorry....not yet qualified to return PMs. the video which is confusing me has a link to this discussion but mentions cutting circles and such.(Template tutorials for beginners) Having no idea how to do that I am glad that the pictures in the discussion enlightened me but I 'm still confused over the video content in relation to it's title. Aren't you making a jig for making templates....not actual templates? 
(apparently I'm not allowed to post url s either!!)

Sorry if I sound confused.....but I am !!

Regards

Loyd


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Loyd, the template box is the first step in using templates with Harry's methods. Harry's fourth video will be up soon showing how to build a nice coin tray. Harry spends the time to show all the steps including mistakes and how to correct them. Learning the concept will help you design your own in the future.


----------



## mumbo (Feb 1, 2012)

Thanks Mike,

I will study the techniques again and try to work out where i am getting confused. I think it is just a matter of separating the "jig" and the "templates" in my mind. It certainly looks like a very thorough approach.

Cheers

Loyd


----------



## macnalty (Aug 6, 2011)

Thanks Harry it means alot to see it in pictures. Appreciate all your efforts here. Harry can you tell me what you think is the biggest upgrade in router bits these last five years? Cheers from Dallas, Tx


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

That's difficult for me to answer Mark because I seldom buy bits these days because I have well over a hundred and can usually find one that will do the job in hand. There are members who keep up to date with such matters, Bj probably being the leader of the pack, so I'm sure that there will be answers forthcoming which I too will view with interest.


----------

