# Oak draw fronts and cabinet doors



## vapochilled (May 2, 2007)

First off, a huge thank you to you guys! Without your patience, I'm sure many more wood working novices would fall by the roadside, myself amongst them. So thank you all.
Now, she who must be obeyed, wanted darker cabinets and draws in the bathroom to compliment the ongoing renovations(guess who's got that job as well!)
I priced up both MDF covered and solid wood, the Oak was averaging about $55 for the doors and almost $30 for the draws.
So far my material cost is working out at about half that. Clearly the labor cost is where I'm saving, but my time is free right 
Started off with 1/2" oak veneer ply and 2 1/2" x3/4" oak frame pieces.
Ripped the frame down to 2 1/4" and using a T&G bit made up the frames. T&G was not the first choice but the wife likes the clean look.
Cut the ply to size and then using a dado blade on the TS cut a 1/4"x1/4" dado all round to drop into the frame.
More pictures to follow as I finish them off but I'm so pleased with the results so far.
I'm not kidding myself that it in any way compares to the outstanding work I've seen on here by others. But this is my first "real" piece of finish woodwork since school! Not including rough carpentry for trim work and such.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Looking good. All it takes is a lot of practice and patience so the next time it will be easier and better. Keep us posted on your progress.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Looks good David


Now your having fun with your router 


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## vapochilled (May 2, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Looks good David
> 
> 
> Now your having fun with your router
> ...


I am, I tell you what though, it sure makes you wonder how people builts ships and furniture by hand out of this stuff,lol 
As far as a finish goes, I was thinking a dark stain and then a coat or three of spray poly? as it will be going from dry to humid often?
Also, I've left the panel loose in the frame, I don't mean flopping about, but not fixed is that right?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Your right on David

"flopping about" = they should move just a bit, here's a tip, pickup some thin insulation about 1/4" x 1/4" cut it into 1" long strips, place them in the slots..

"stain" = stain the panels b/4 you glue them up,,, it's hard to get in the corners after you have them glued up  not to say anything about the glue push out in the corners,,that will act like a wood sealer and then show up as boltch in the stain job...


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vapochilled said:


> I am, I tell you what though, it sure makes you wonder how people builts ships and furniture by hand out of this stuff,lol
> As far as a finish goes, I was thinking a dark stain and then a coat or three of spray poly? as it will be going from dry to humid often?
> Also, I've left the panel loose in the frame, I don't mean flopping about, but not fixed is that right?


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## vapochilled (May 2, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> "stain" = stain the panels b/4 you glue them up,,, it's hard to get in the corners after you have them glued up
> 
> 
> ==========


Ooops, too late, too late the fair maiden cried!
I'll know on the next one


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Space balls could also be put in the grooves before inserting the panels. Little round balls of rubber that squish in to keep the panels from rattling.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Looking good David.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

looks great!!!! I'm starting a similar project soon for a friend's small kitchen. Since they will paint the doors I'm going to use poplar rails / stiles and birch ply panels. I might start with some sample doors this weekend.


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

vapochilled said:


> I am, I tell you what though, it sure makes you wonder how people builts ships and furniture by hand out of this stuff,lol
> As far as a finish goes, I was thinking a dark stain and then a coat or three of spray poly? as it will be going from dry to humid often?
> Also, I've left the panel loose in the frame, I don't mean flopping about, but not fixed is that right?


Do your self a favor and don't spray varnish unless you have a dedicated spray area or can do it out side.It stays in the air a long time and seems to get on everything. You can get good results with a quality brush or by wiping it on. Much neater. A trick that is often used when staining after the door is complete is to use compressed air to nudge the stain where a brush or rag won't go. This has to be done while the stain is still wet and the pressure of the air is dialed down a great deal. Also if the frames are red oak,as they appear to be, the stain will bleed back for quite a while and you will have to keep wiping it off. After all that they look good.

Regards

Jerry


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Jerry

Have you tried using a spray setup like the one below ?
I got one just to do varnish, works great and almost no over spray, to float around the shop.. 

PRESSURE COMPLETE SPRAY KIT
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44677
Sprays light, medium and heavy stain, varnish, and latex.


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jerrymayfield said:


> Do your self a favor and don't spray varnish unless you have a dedicated spray area or can do it out side.It stays in the air a long time and seems to get on everything. You can get good results with a quality brush or by wiping it on. Much neater. A trick that is often used when staining after the door is complete is to use compressed air to nudge the stain where a brush or rag won't go. This has to be done while the stain is still wet and the pressure of the air is dialed down a great deal. Also if the frames are red oak,as they appear to be, the stain will bleed back for quite a while and you will have to keep wiping it off. After all that they look good.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Jerry


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## vapochilled (May 2, 2007)

I do quite a bit of airbrush work, as I also build model ships.
I would be concerned about putting that amount of flamible varnish into the air, without some form of extraction. If I cant wait for a warm day so I can open the garage door up, I'll probably use a brush.
I do like the price of that spray kit though, does it work well?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi vapochilled

Works great, I haved used it to spray stain, varnish, and latex,poly. it comes with two tips,one for medium and heavy material like latex,,,you can make the pattern 1 1/2" in diam. or up to 12" wide pattern...it's real easy to clean out the paint can...aswell...and because it's spray you don't get the nasty brush or sponge marks..
I made a small spray booth out of a cardboard box that works well for most items I spray... 18" x 24" x 12" deep...with wings on the sides and top.. flaps from the cardboard box..

I also use a plant holder,, I knot sure what the right name is for, it but it's like a round steel plug with about 30 or 40 sharp points ( nails ) to hold the item up off the bottom of the box to help with the run/drip off ,,on the edges..plus I can flip the item over and spray the other side b/4 it's dry with almost no marks..

But I'm sure one can be made with a block of wood and some dry wall screws and do the same thing.. 
That's one of the items on my do list ..

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vapochilled said:


> I do quite a bit of airbrush work, as I also build model ships.
> I would be concerned about putting that amount of flamible varnish into the air, without some form of extraction. If I cant wait for a warm day so I can open the garage door up, I'll probably use a brush.
> I do like the price of that spray kit though, does it work well?


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