# "WANTED" one to three line router tips



## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

We are looking for *"one to three line router tips"*, which are to be featured on the daily tip rotator. I have about 100 of these but would like to have input from the rest of you. 

Our first members tip has been posted on the the daily tip rotator for Oct 26th, congradulations goes to kp91. Thanks for the tip!

Look forward to hearing from you.


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## ejant (Sep 10, 2004)

*Safety tip:*

Never leave a table mounter router with the bit raised or uprotected when not in use.


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## ejant (Sep 10, 2004)

Periodically inspect bits for cracks, worn bearings, chipped carbide.


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

ejant said:


> *Safety tip:*
> 
> Never leave a table mounter router with the bit raised or uprotected when not in use.


Thanks ejant, this is what we are looking for...more the better.


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## jdoolitt (Sep 10, 2004)

Put your bits away. The vast majority of router bits have carbide tips. Carbide has a number of advantages; it’s resistant to heat, and keeps an edge longer than steel. Among the drawbacks; it’s very brittle, prone to chipping. Don't leave your bits rolling around loosely in a drawer as they can smack one another and chip - ruining them. Always put them away either in the container you picked it up in, or in a DIY holder which keeps them safely apart.


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

jdoolitt said:


> Put your bits away. The vast majority of router bits have carbide tips. Carbide has a number of advantages; it’s resistant to heat, and keeps an edge longer than steel. Among the drawbacks; it’s very brittle, prone to chipping. Don't leave your bits rolling around loosely in a drawer as they can smack one another and chip - ruining them. Always put them away either in the container you picked it up in, or in a DIY holder which keeps them safely apart.


thanks jdoolitt, good tip


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

The tip submitter is up and running, to visist it goto http://www.routerforums.com/submittip if your encountering some problems with the system email me.


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Unplug the router when changing bits


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Keep hands and any part of the body away from router bit when running.


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

Those tips seem to be pretty good, but if you want them to be on the tip rotator you need to submit them.

http://www.routerforums.com/submittip


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## delroy33 (Sep 10, 2004)

when useing more than one router at the bench, it may become confuseing which plug is to which router. Color code the plug and the router it goes to.


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## HarrySS (Sep 11, 2004)

*Question?*

I am planning to purchase my first router. What is your recomendation?


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## Woodnut65 (Oct 11, 2004)

HarrySS said:


> I am planning to purchase my first router. What is your recomendation?


I would adviseyou to buy a 1 1/2 HP router to start with, Something like the Porter Cable 690. If you can afford it the have a kit now which will give
you different bases for the same motor unit, ie a plunge base, a fixed base etc. Later on you may get into doing some heavy work, that's when you may
want a multi speed router with more HP. Dewalt also makes some nice routers
like the 625. 
 Hope this helps, Woodnut65


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## Dewy (Sep 15, 2004)

delroy33 said:


> when useing more than one router at the bench, it may become confuseing which plug is to which router. Color code the plug and the router it goes to.


Nice one Delroy.
I have a variety of different coloured plugs which help show which tool is plugged in.

Tip. When taking a router out of the table which has a 'no volt release switch' remember to turn the router switch off before plugging in again.

I got caught out by that once and was fortunate that the bit was above the router base.


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## Dewy (Sep 15, 2004)

*router bit depth with dovetail jig*

When cutting dovetails with a jig the cutter depth is important for joint fit.
I use a bit of hardwood with one end routed to the thickness the bit needs to be and use this on the router base when setting the bit depth everytime.


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## Steveanson (Nov 10, 2004)

For a fast and safe bit elevation adjustments on table applications, I actually make no adjustments at all. I initially raise the bit to the final cutting level, and use two (or more) 1/4'' MDF sub-floors, under the work piece. After the first cut, remove one floor piece, effectively raising the bit 1/4 inch.

For multi router owners, lable base plates and collets, so they can find the correct home.

When using round base routers against a clamped down edge guide, don't rotate the router base position on the guide. Often a base in not exactly concentric to the bit.

Matt


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

*Some of these tips need a tune-up*

Today I see a tip while reasonable could use a bit of a tune-up.

"The router lends itself to easy pattern cutting (both internal and external). Do not use the outside of the router base to follow a pattern. The base is not accurate and will not centre the bit. Use a properly machined guide that will centre your bit inside the guide. Do not trust plastic guides and inserts."

1) One thing that you do if you want to use the round sub-base is to "true it" yourself, if you have one that is D shaped you use the flat, if it is square you pick a side and use that same side each time on that project. (I have posted insructions how to true a round sub-base.)

2) Do not assume that the hole in the sub-base has been centered on the router, the sub-base must be centered before you use any inserts.....

3) Well made plastic guides and inserts are better then poorly done brass or steel ones and are about as good as most good inserts.

No offense intended to who wrote the tip...... and this is not the only tip I have seen that could use a little work.

Ed


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## -Sam- (Sep 24, 2004)

I agree with you reible, no offense to anyone.

Boricua


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## Edward J Keefer (Jan 28, 2005)

*Dailyroutertips*

An E-mail to Mark was returned, the subject was the same as title.
Why do I get the following ,"Error reading quote...". This seems to be a web master question, but e-mail returned.
Does everyone get the same message or is it just me? I have site popups allowed'
Bud (trap)


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## TGO (Sep 10, 2004)

*Direction of feed*

] Here is a tip I ran across at another form but thought everyone here would like it too,as I have seen many people that get confused with the direction to feed the router

week or so ago, we had a little discussion in our shop about the right way to feed a hand-held router across a workpiece. When it comes to routing along the edge of a workpiece, everyone agrees it's best to feed the router from left to right. This way, the bit cuts cleanly into the wood and won't bounce along the edge. But what about when routing a groove or dado? With wood on both sides of the bit, is there a wrong direction to push the router? 

After trying both directions, we found out that yes, there is a correct way to rout a groove. Like any hand-held router operation, the router should move left to right (assuming the fence isn't between you and the router). If the router is moved in the wrong direction, the rotation of the bit can cause the router base to drift away from the fence. When fed the correct way, left to right, the rotation of the bit keeps the base of the router pulled tight against the fence. (Or if you're using an edge guide, the guide is held tight against the workpiece.) 

This reminded me of a little trick I learned a while back. Whenever I have to stop and think about the right direction to feed the router, all I do is look down at my right hand. I simply hold my right hand with the knuckles up and my thumb extended out, see drawing. Then I orient my hand so my thumb is pointing to the edge of the workpiece or the edge of the fence. My index finger will automatically be pointing in the direction I need to move the router. 

By the way, this also works with a router table, as well. But since the router is suspended upside-down, I simply flip my hand over, so it's also upside-down. This time, when my thumb points to the router bit, my finger points in the direction I need to feed the workpiece, which is usually right to left. 

See the attchment for a picture of the discription


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## Pop_pop1 (Sep 10, 2004)

*Mark angle on dovetail bits*

To identify the angle on dovetail bits, mark the angle on the end of the shank with an engraver.


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## Chuck Ross (Aug 28, 2005)

know your work area keep footing clean.


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## beemerbob (Sep 10, 2004)

Forbidden
You don't have permission to access /submittip/ on this server.

Apache/1.3.33 Server at www.routerforums.com Port 80

Tried to post a tip and all I got was this


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## GoonMan (Mar 22, 2005)

Hello beemerbob,Welcome to the RouterForum 

Post your router tip in this thread and one of the Mods or Admin will post it in the tips Rotator.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Take the time to clean the bits with a good bit cleaner and check the bits at the same time for any errors,cracks,chips,bearing,etc.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Don't use dull bits or burnt bits replace them with new ones.
A sharp tool is a safe tool.


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## woody (Sep 25, 2004)

If you are using a router table and a guide bushing to route a pattern look out for unsupported edge grain. In other words, outside curves are dangerous because the router can tear out the object being routed and can cause the project to be ruined.


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## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

What speed for what bit that is more than 1" dia.? No speed chart in your manual or on the router ? Easy...tip speed in the range of 104 to 107 mph will be pretty close to the correct speed.ie: 2" bit = 3.1416 x 2 x guessed RPM divided by 12 x 60 divided by 5280. If the answer is greater than 107 mph...lower the est.speed & recalculate.

Lee


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Router Bit Speeds

The links below may also help ▼

http://www.newwoodworker.com/ref/rtrbtspds.html
http://www.newwoodworker.com/rtrbitspds.html

Bj


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## Maurice (Sep 24, 2004)

Just read info about UMHW for fences and jigs.
Well, ok for fences but for jigs that don't get used for very long...kinda expensive!
I use 3/16 inch masonite, two pieces glued back to back.
That gives a thickness of 3/8 inch to cut you pattern on and it works great and it's cheap.
Mo.


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## jfacteau (Dec 10, 2006)

Make sure if you are a wearing a long sleeve shirt to tape or put rubber bands on the cuffs to keep them snug to the wrist. Its not a pretty picture when the shirt gets hung up in bits or saw blades for that matter.


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## cbsjoez1935 (Mar 14, 2007)

Read the manual, then use the tool

JoeZ


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## grim99 (Feb 24, 2007)

For template routing always jig saw or band saw 1/8 inch close to the line you intend to cut.
grim


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## Ariel (Oct 31, 2007)

I read this tip elsewhere and know a little about the why, but I'd like more info.

"Never use router bits in a drill"


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ariel

I will just touch on some of them 

Speed
HP, Power
Control
No Base plate on drills

But I should add I have use router bits in the drill press..
But they do like to hang up at low speed..

But the norm is a no no...


============


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Tim

I recall someone saying don't use WD40 on router bits,,,they make bearing lub and cleaner for router bits..

Something about the WD40 braking down the lub in the bearings...

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item.asp?n=bblub-2oz&d=160&b=2
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item.asp?n=bbcl-16oz&d=160&b=2

=========


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tim

I'm not to sure what's in WD40 and they will not tell anyone but it has something in it that will dispalce the base lube, water, oil, dirt, etc. it's great for cleaning because it will lift just about anything and leave a LIGHT oil base, just in case you don't have any router bit cleaner around and you have some light 3&1 oil in the little can, it works well because it's a petroleum base item... 

=========


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Tim you'er welcome 

No patients and pls.do use it,,, you'er more than welcome to use it and please post a picture of yours after you have it made. 

=====


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## earlofroberts (Jan 10, 2008)

How do I get this daily tip?
thanks


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## jwaterdawg (Oct 16, 2008)

*tip*

When routing a profile all the way around a piece, always work from the same side and orientation of the table (i.e. the front OR the side; not the front AND the side). Otherwise, any deviation from a flat table and/or plate will transfer to the profile and become apparent when you complete the profile.


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