# Thicknessing "jig"



## rjay (Oct 3, 2008)

Like probably most here, I use both powered ('tho few stationary) along
w/portable tailed-tools & "tail-less" old reliables

Space, @##! noise, dust control is always a concern

I have seen varied shop-built work-around substitutes for stationary tools
E.G. when thicknessing material

Hand planes work fine, (I hand plane most edge jointing)
but for thicknessing, - few would deny - it's time consuming, physically demanding

(too much work in woodworking ?) 

These shop-tailored alternatives have many appealing features:
Width, thickness & length capability is very flexible (size to fit wants) 

You know the type - two rails of desired length, width easily adjustable
Rail height to accomodate most used material. router slides on rails

When finished, store w/other "jigs"

My questions - how many use something of this type
How good was your finished surface (to what extent finish sufface planing/sanding was later needed)

What bit seemed best (I.E. desireable trade-off of width of cut vs end results)

Most bits are meant for side cutting, not end facing
There are bowl bits, morticing etc - most of latter are designed w/chip removal as a criteria

(Example only of bottom cutting bits)

Stationary tools are ulitimate convenience, but at costs

Like dedicated moticers, they take space, whereas a router is THE most flexible power convenience we have
(outside of our drills/"skill" saws)

I am fortunate, having over years, upgraded to quality routers etc
(Experience has also taught, less expensive "bargains" - often just get replaced)

TIA for your thoughts 

Off-topic:
Is it necessary to log-in to only read user posts 
& each time a member wants to post a new thread
(I logged in 1st, then jumped to sub-header)
Which displayed a ??? "you are not registered Msg)

Thnx all


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Magnate router bits #2704 and #2705 work well for planing. 

http://magnate.net/index.cfm?event=showProductGroup&theID=136


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

welcome to the forum. I'm not at all sure what it is that you're asking but I'll give an insight into my tool experience. In the days that I started woodworking, power tools, even electric drills were considered too expensive for the hobbyist and so my early tools consisted of a Stanley plane, a wheel brace with a few assorted twist drills, a brace and a few bits, a hammer and a Stanley "pump" screwdriver. A rather blunt second hand saw that gave me an inferiority complex when I saw carpenters zipping through wood like a hot knife through butter.
As soon as I became sufficiently financial, I started to collect power tools starting with an electric drill with jig saw attachment and in 1974 my first B&D router. I now have just about every type of power tool and machine and so have lost the art of using hand tools. I have five routers, each one dedicated to a particular function, one of which is ski mounted and used for various types of planing using end cutting bits. Whilst planing on a router table is the way to go for those without a thicknesser or jointer, the latter two are my choice. Templates and jigs have a definite place in any workshop, but one mustn't go overboard for fear of spending more time jig making than project making quite apart from the space required to store them in some semblance of order.


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## rjay (Oct 3, 2008)

Thank you 

I previously used factory-surfaced solid wood or veneer Ply, seldom rough stock.
Now I prefer to re-saw hardwood on B/Saw, (3/16"-1/4" thick) & encase suitable 
ply or MDF on both sides, plus edge band

Bit of Bkgrnd:
I had a 6" long-bed jointer, after the hand-planes were properly tuned, 
a bit of practice made it redundant
Even lunch-box planers need one side surfaced first
(NTIM, also sometimes used a portable belt-sander on large areas
> carefully LOL)

Quality tools, being relatively costly, my pocketbook demands anything must be justified 
Lesser-used profile good bits are scarce here (mostly Freud or junk)
I buy bits as needed, if one @ a time on-line shipping costs enter decisions

When both faces are visible, the hardest part was to ensure uniform thickness

Never having seen results from a router adaption, I was uncertain as what to
expect, how much cleaning up might be still Req'd

The application would be primarily for larger case-work, dressers, cabinets etc

One article (it had simple to make plans), mentioned much thinner stock could be thicknessed than safely possible w/stationary planers 

When sized, (only for better furniture), I now use a combo of handplane & card scraper


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"One article (it had simple to make plans), mentioned much thinner stock could be thicknessed than safely possible w/stationary planers"

This is how I safely put thin material through the planer.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

That's a neat way to get the job done, I do it almost the same way but I put a dado slot in the base board that's about 1/8" deep ,then I set in the part that needs to be milled down in, that way I don't need to worry about the nails or the stop block poping off at the end of the pass..or hanging up.
The dado slot is about 4" wide, plus I do make the part a bit longer than it needs to be so I don't get any snipe at the end of the pass...and if I do I can cut of the bad part...I will now and then use double sided carpet tape to hold it in place if the part needs to be 1/8" thick.... the thin stuff likes to bow sometimes...



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harrysin said:


> "One article (it had simple to make plans), mentioned much thinner stock could be thicknessed than safely possible w/stationary planers"
> 
> This is how I safely put thin material through the planer.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

Here's a snapshot of my jig 

=========


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

That sure is a more sophisticated way of doing it Bj, but you must realise that most of us don't have room for storing huge quantities of jigs, I make mine as required in a couple of minutes and can then reuse the board.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

I'm not sure if it's the more sophisticated way of doing the job but it's worth making and hanging it on the wall because iit can be used in many other ways.

the one that comes to mind is the one Dep was trying to do with her hand router and having a hard time holding the stock to the work bench..
Not to say anything about a way to hold stock for the ski jig. without putting screw holes in the work bench..


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harrysin said:


> That sure is a more sophisticated way of doing it Bj, but you must realise that most of us don't have room for storing huge quantities of jigs, I make mine as required in a couple of minutes and can then reuse the board.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"but it's worth making and hanging it on the wall "

Wall Bj, what wall, there's hardly a square inch of spare wall in my shed which is huge compared to those of many members.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> HI Harry
> 
> I'm not sure if it's the more sophisticated way of doing the job but it's worth making and hanging it on the wall because iit can be used in many other ways.
> 
> ...


 "without putting screw holes in the work bench.."

Bj, look at any of my large number of ski routing shots and you'll see that I use a sacrificial top on my router table, one which passed it's use by date about three years ago!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

That's when you need to use the MEAT hooks,, walls full hang a 2 x 4 from the roof and tie on some meat hooks  but I use elec.wire that I have striped out...it's quick and will not mark the jigs because it's coated..

Ping Pong


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harrysin said:


> "but it's worth making and hanging it on the wall "
> 
> Wall Bj, what wall, there's hardly a square inch of spare wall in my shed which is huge compared to those of many members.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

When I have time Bj, I'll take shots of each of the walls and roof. I will now say goodnight, it's 10.45PM and I must be up no later than 9.00 AM so that I can finish a project that I'm working on ready to post it some time tomorrow.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Good Night Harry

Looking forward to your NEW project

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harrysin said:


> When I have time Bj, I'll take shots of each of the walls and roof. I will now say goodnight, it's 10.45PM and I must be up no later than 9.00 AM so that I can finish a project that I'm working on ready to post it some time tomorrow.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Here's the ski I made, and a shot of what I did with it. The surface came out very smooth.
http://www.routerforums.com/50610-post1.html


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Very nice Mike, very, very smooth.

Ed......


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

A very original version Mike as I've said in the past.


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## Microsuffer (Aug 7, 2008)

Mike, 

Your jig is interesting. What is typically the best variation in thickness that you get with your jig? How do you set up for a thickness? For planarity? I would love to see you do a movie of using it.

Charlie H.


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## rberry (Jun 6, 2008)

Hi rjay,

It appears that your post is getting hijacked. I hope that someone can give you an answer to both questions including the OT question. I am interested in both.

Bob


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## rjay (Oct 3, 2008)

Thnx Rberry - but don't hold your breath for answsers or even a MOD


One week & the "thousands_ plus_regulars" can only come up with 
"meat -hooks" 

(This after spelling out all details)


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Hi rjay,

It appears that your post is getting hijacked. I hope that someone can give you an answer to both questions including the OT question. I am interested in both.

Bob"


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Hi rjay,

It appears that your post is getting hijacked. I hope that someone can give you an answer to both questions including the OT question. I am interested in both.

Bob"


May I respectfully suggest that if specific questions had been asked in the first place, in the minimum of words, to avoid confusion, then many specific answers would, I'm sure have been forthcoming.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Microsuffer said:


> Mike,
> 
> Your jig is interesting. What is typically the best variation in thickness that you get with your jig? How do you set up for a thickness? For planarity? I would love to see you do a movie of using it.
> 
> Charlie H.


Mainly, I made the jig just to try it. At the time I didn't have a thickness planer, although I don't trust that tool to get stock to 1/4" or less. With the stock held to the table using vacuum from the DC, I was able to plane the stock within an estimated .005". I later added sandpaper to the insert to help hold the stock.


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## rjay (Oct 3, 2008)

HarrySin

You have a peculiar concept of the value, "respect" 
. Your "notions" as Quoted: 

> (~ "if specific questions had been asked in the first place, in the minimum of words, to avoid confusion~")

Is that how you prefer to post 

> By your disjointed ten-line disertation on *your* history in W/work

"Confusing" issues were :
YOUR rambling on with no stops for sentence endings
in particular, siezing any/every opportunity to mumble about 
> items of non-relevance to the posted query

What confused you "Sir" - Please NOTE -the questions were:
~ How many use something of this type
~ How good was your finished surface 
~ (to what extent finish sufface planing/sanding was later needed)
~ What bit seemed best 

Why were "meat hooks, or even how any use stationary planers 
deemed appropriate answers to specified queries

It appears nobody here has used any such clearly described tool 
This thread should be locked - anyone wanting to off-topic gossip
can go "lobby" elsewhere


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Perhaps this may not be an appropriate forum for you, we generally consist of working class people who enjoy woodworking but are not educated to university level and so can become confused rather easily.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

rjay said:


> HarrySin
> 
> You have a peculiar concept of the value, "respect"
> . Your "notions" as Quoted:
> ...


HUH? WHAT? I thought I spoke (North American) english, but I guess not!


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## rjay (Oct 3, 2008)

Curiouser & curiouser - "George"

As Winnie once said
" These are examples of things - up with "we" should not put "

NOTE the use of the collective "we"
That must be a Brit and wacky whirled of OZ thingy 
Perhaps bot h stayed (ahem) "hatless" in sun too long ?

OTOH - having no way of knowing what you "speak"
If your animated bovine is an example_

All that is certain - you have lousy memory "friend" 
You can't even  remember a post just preceding yours ?


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

rjay, you are not making any friends here (I'm certain). You are correct. I do have a lousy memory and in some instances it comes in handy. For instance... I have just forgotten you ever existed on this forum.
Have a nice life....


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

rjay, this is meat hook, I will need to 2nd what Harry and George have posted..

Have a good one

======


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## Microsuffer (Aug 7, 2008)

Thanks, Mike. I was considering the building something like your jig for the same reasons as the OP. From your picture and response it would seem worth a try. Nice to know that at least one craftsman has succeeded this way.


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Just a note for Rjay,

This is a forum of men, women and some of the younger than that folk that is friendly toward each other. Many have had differences of opinions but that's just fine....we can't all think exactly the same way because it would get old real fast.

The reason this is the best forum in the world is because we treat each other with respect.....and dignity.....and most of all, we do not bring our threads to a name-calling personal level.

I have to agree with Harry about the questions being a bit hidden in the words....I did find them but not without some very careful 'sifting' of the post.

No one here wishes you ill Rjay but I'm sure that too many posts of the nature you've been putting up will definitely get you banned....

We're all friends here, even with our differences and strive to learn from each other as best we can....and truthfully, I've been the recipient of more than my fair share of knowledge from the people you've thrown darts at....they are really good people and if you give them a chance you'll be able to find that out and if you don't......you will be the one who loses out on what they have to offer.

I hope you will consider your tack in this matter and just see what it is you can learn about woodworking and need I say it?....proper internet etiquette in the hopes you can have a rich and rewarding experience here as others before you have.

Thanks,

Ed......


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

rjay said:


> Off-topic:
> Is it necessary to log-in to only read user posts
> & each time a member wants to post a new thread
> (I logged in 1st, then jumped to sub-header)
> ...


Hi rjay,

To answer your "off topic" question. When you log in, check the "remember me" box. Then you won't need to log in each time. It's done automatically. 

I'm not fully understanding the rest of this thread or the first for that matter. For bits, I'd think you'll want something like a dish cutter or bottom cleaning bit.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Hamlin said:


> Hi rjay,
> 
> To answer your "off topic" question. When you log in, check the "remember me" box. Then you won't need to log in each time. It's done automatically.
> 
> I'm not fully understanding the rest of this thread or the first for that matter. For bits, I'd think you'll want something like a dish cutter or bottom cleaning bit.


Make sure that you are allowing cookies from the routerforums site so that it can follow you from page to page after you log in.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

We do not tolerate troublemakers. If you can not be civil feel free to visit other woodworking sites, in fact that will be your only option.


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

rjay said:


> Curiouser & curiouser - "George"
> 
> As Winnie once said
> " These are examples of things - up with "we" should not put "
> ...


Please watch your posts in the future and respect the other members of this forum. This is your *final warning*.


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## rjay (Oct 3, 2008)

To clarify for any who may have had trouble understanding the query
The plans mentioned were from an article by Ted Hanson
Titled "Surfacing stock with a Router" > he submitted to FWW a very long time ago

It was reassuring to note - the surface attained by AxiMyk
(As well as his verification of "not trusting" use of a stationary planer
for very thin stock_)


Net-equette - Nark please notice, most replies ignored:
Stationary tools were not sought 
How/why it then diverted ..is a sad matter of record

Off topic replies addressed (thank you):
Cookies were enabled, the Apropo box *was* checked - yet the site D/Base did not "remember" (necessitating subsequent log-ins for Ea. reply page)

The reason for even mentioning:
I use a sources-based, user_compiles Linux
One browser notifies a user:
"This page contains coding errors"


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Please check out my today's post in the lobby, and try to get into the spirit of things, as one member told me in a PM, "this guy needs to lighten-up"


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

rjay said:


> To clarify for any who may have had trouble understanding the query
> The plans mentioned were from an article by Ted Hanson
> Titled "Surfacing stock with a Router" > he submitted to FWW a very long time ago
> 
> ...


This strikes me as an issue on your side. If your browser / OS or more general, computer fails to generate and store the cookie provided by the RouterForums.com server then you will not retain your login credentials. This as you can assume is completely out of my hands, please check your browser settings and ensure that the cookie is being stored properly. I assure you, my server is generating the cookie and a properly configured browser is receiving and storing the cookie properly. I have not had any issues with my session being remembered.

*This thread was closed due to the context of this thread. I don't like the direction it's heading. If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.*


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