# V Tongue and Groove router bit



## darkstar (Nov 8, 2009)

Hi List -

I am new to using a router so please bear with me. A friend of mine has loaned me his router set, a Bosch 1617EVSPK fixed and plunge bases, and a Bosch router table that is brand new and still in the box... (says I can buy all this from him as he is not going to use it after all). 

I plan to set this up for a project I have in mind, to build paneling for a hot tub room out of 1x4 tight knot cedar. Another bit of info, though I don't think it is all that relevant, is that I plan to install the boards, on the walls, at 45 degree angles so as to have a herringbone pattern. The ceiling is the underside of a hip roof, so again at the ends I will be butting the boards together, each with a 45 degree angle cut to give me the 90 degrees also. So a few questions -

Does anyone have a good recommendation for a V Tongue and Groove router bit? I am going to use it on approx 250 6' and some 8' lengths of cedar boards.

I also will want to put an additional V groove down the center of each board so as to give a better appearance, so will also be looking for a V bit as well.

Are there any tricks or good guidelines to be aware of when doing this kind of project?

What would be a good way to handle the ends of two boards when they need to be "extended" end to end? Don't worry about it and just butt them against each other, or is there a better option and if so what? If there is no real good options, then I will just butt them together and cover with a strip of molding...

Appreciate any thoughts and recommendations! Thanks... Marc..


----------



## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings Mark and welcome to the router forum. Thank you for joining us.


----------



## waynoe (Sep 29, 2004)

Marc
I just completed a sauna for a client yesterday. I'll post some pics with explantations of what I did. May help give you some ideas.
Wayne


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Marc

Here's a set that will not break the bank 

2 pc 1/2" SH V-Joint Tongue and Groove Router bit Set - eBay (item 130342069688 end time Dec-04-09 10:43:35 PST)

I also did about the same thing in my sauna room I just butted the 45 up.. I just used a diamond pattern,, 
But I do recommend using the router table for this type of job,,the bits are big and it will be challenge using the hand router 

=====



darkstar said:


> Hi List -
> 
> I am new to using a router so please bear with me. A friend of mine has loaned me his router set, a Bosch 1617EVSPK fixed and plunge bases, and a Bosch router table that is brand new and still in the box... (says I can buy all this from him as he is not going to use it after all).
> 
> ...


----------



## waynoe (Sep 29, 2004)

Mark
Here's the pics. The bits I used were a 45 degee v groove and a 45 degee beveling bit. Both were craftsman. But most manufacturers make them.
Good luck with your project.


----------



## darkstar (Nov 8, 2009)

Wow! Thanks guys for your responses! Bob - I am a bit shocked at the price on ebay for the V tongue and groove bits, most of the sites I have seen these on, sell for a lot higher.. Thanks so much for that tip.. One question I have on these bits, since 1x4 stock is never 1 inch thick, is that an issue when using these bits? I have seen some V tongue and groove bits advertise that they are adjustable for different thicknesses of stock. How important is that?

And Wayne that sauna of yours is wonderful, great pics and lots of neat ideas that I will also include... I have a question that is not router related for you. Did you buy the cedar already planed smooth, or did you do that yourself.. If so, did you use a planer, or sander? Most of the cedar I have found is somewhat planed on one side but still a bit rough so will require some additional work.

Marc...


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Marc

Your Welcome
It will do 3/4" stock easy  you can push them to 1 1/8" , you want to use the solid bits and not the adjustable ones..the parts must line up dead on.
The pair of bits are a matched set, so to say you don't want to move the router up or down when you switch the bits out...a small rubber grommet under the shank it the the router will give you a stop point every time, so the bits line up on the button..

The error comes into play because the boards are long,,not all long boards are flat and true and it's tricky to get them in place,,make a drive block so can use it to drive the boards in place..make it out of some 2 x 4 stock with the same bit..make a male and a female pass and then rip it down the center for two blocks..
This is one time you don't want the joint to tight ..but just right..

========



darkstar said:


> Wow! Thanks guys for your responses! Bob - I am a bit shocked at the price on ebay for the V tongue and groove bits, most of the sites I have seen these on, sell for a lot higher.. Thanks so much for that tip.. One question I have on these bits, since 1x4 stock is never 1 inch thick, is that an issue when using these bits? I have seen some V tongue and groove bits advertise that they are adjustable for different thicknesses of stock. How important is that?
> 
> And Wayne that sauna of yours is wonderful, great pics and lots of neat ideas that I will also include... I have a question that is not router related for you. Did you buy the cedar already planed smooth, or did you do that yourself.. If so, did you use a planer, or sander? Most of the cedar I have found is somewhat planed on one side but still a bit rough so will require some additional work.
> 
> Marc...


----------



## waynoe (Sep 29, 2004)

Marc
The cedar I used was already planed. It did require a light sanding because there were rough spots. The cedar I used was local, we call it swamp cedar because that is where it is found. It has a lot more knots in it than the mountain cedar that you should get in your area. There was a lot of waste I'm guessing 30% but the price difference more than made up for it.
Wayne


----------



## Wild Horse (Sep 9, 2009)

Mark, lots of good advice here. You will also need a different v bit for the groove down the center of the boards that you want. Featherboards horiz and vert are going to be a must, especially with the lengths of boards and the center groove. Using the router table as BJ suggested, plus you should have extensions/roller stands as well....at least on the outfeed.

Do you have a miter saw or ts as well ? Your butt ends will be fine, but your cuts will be critical for a nice end match with no gaps.

Looking forward to seeing the finished project !


----------



## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> you want to use the solid bits and not the adjustable ones..the parts must line up dead on.


Bob,
I don't get that. The adjustable sets (at least the Freud version) are matched and also allow coarse adjustment for the tongue/groove width to vary with the stock thickness as well as fine adjustment of the fit of the parts if you desire.

Marc,
I recommend that you either scarf joint the boards for length or use the V Panel set for those joints. Also, you will be cutting a LOT of linear feet so you will want a high quality set to handle the job.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Charles

To each his own  ,I'm not knocking Freud but I just like that type of bit..

For the price of Freud he can buy 5 sets and still be money ahead..

Wipe out the set and pop in a new one..

========



Charles M said:


> Bob,
> I don't get that. The adjustable sets (at least the Freud version) are matched and also allow coarse adjustment for the tongue/groove width to vary with the stock thickness as well as fine adjustment of the fit of the parts if you desire.
> 
> Marc,
> I recommend that you either scarf joint the boards for length or use the V Panel set for those joints. Also, you will be cutting a LOT of linear feet so you will want a high quality set to handle the job.


----------



## darkstar (Nov 8, 2009)

I am quite impressed at how much help I am getting here! Lots of good suggestions. Thanks guys for your responses, and yes I will post pictures of my hot tub room when I am finished with it.... One more question - I see a couple websites advertising a lubricants and cleaners for router bits... Is it worth it to buy these items, or not?

Marc..


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Marc

The cleaners are but not the bearing lube,,the bearing are the sealed type..but the lube works well on the cutters..putts a lube on the back side of the cutter to keep the junk from sticking..I use the cleaner on the bits every time I get done with them,it gives me a chance to check the cutters/blades out for any damage..then back in the rack for the next time I need them 

========



darkstar said:


> I am quite impressed at how much help I am getting here! Lots of good suggestions. Thanks guys for your responses, and yes I will post pictures of my hot tub room when I am finished with it.... One more question - I see a couple websites advertising a lubricants and cleaners for router bits... Is it worth it to buy these items, or not?
> 
> Marc..


----------



## darkstar (Nov 8, 2009)

Well I finally got my Bosch router and table set up, fired it up and made my first attempt to cut a tongue and 1/2 V groove down one edge of the board. Was able to get it all aligned up, (love the tip on using a rubber grommet to mark the depth of setting the shank for the bit!!!) and made the cut. Everything went great, except for when I got to the very end and the board rocked inwards a bit because the bit is actually cutting the edge of the tongue slightly making the board slightly narrower in width. That of course cause the cut to change directions a bit and mucked up the end on me. So my question is - Is there any tricks that one can use to prevent this from happening as I do the rest of my 240 boards?

Thanks again for all your help, this is a great group for me!!!

Marc...


----------



## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Does your bit have a bearing? If so use a straight edge to line it up with the fence. Sounds like the fence is to far back & it is cutting to deep. Do you have a split fence on your table & are the aligned with each other? 

I use a little 2oz pump spray called Router Bit Lubricant by Empire Manufacturing on bearings that start to feel gumbed up & not turning as freely. It seems to seep into the bearing & free it up.


----------

