# New fangled bench build



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

The first step for me is making room for a new bench. So I put my bench up on craigslist. It cost me less than $50 to make it, and it sold for $50. Someone is coming tomorrow to pick it up.


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

Sweet, pics or it didn't happen.

Or is this the new-fangled-bench from your other post? I haz a confoozed :agree:


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

You're right ... I have actually built 2 new thinge recently: a router table for 3 concurrent routers, and a workbench. I finished the workbench just a few weeks ago. I learned alot from that process, but I ended up with something that is too small, and doesn't weigh enough. While I could have made a new top for it and reused the legs, the more I looked at and thought about the features of the new fangled bench, the more I realized that was the bench that I can see myself being able to use for all the tasks I can imagine.

I will give it my own flair, with more substantial legs, and possibly a heftier top as well.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

If interested I could send you pictures of the one I built. It's a pattern makers bench design about 8 feet long made out of 2x3's on edge.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

mgmine said:


> If interested I could send you pictures of the one I built. It's a pattern makers bench design about 8 feet long made out of 2x3's on edge.


yes, i would like that very much, thanks. i am thinking of doing 2x3s on edge too


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

i feel like the base is the weakest link in the whole bench, so that is the part where mine will be different. it will still look similar, but they will be much beefier and sturdy.

i am also thinking i will use 2x3s face-glued together. i will rip 1/4" off each side to remove the rounded edges and end up with a 2" thick top. that way, i have a beefier top and the support for the top is simply a 2x4.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I got the lumber for the legs tonight.

Here is the plan:


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Man, i don't think i'll ever get Sketchup to work like that!! Looks good.


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## IRONMULE31014 (Feb 16, 2013)

Welcome to the forum


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

IRONMULE31014 said:


> Welcome to the forum


um, who are you welcoming?


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## nickrochon (Feb 8, 2013)

Interested to follow this build.

If I had to guess, maybe they were trying to hit the 10 post mark? lol...interesting way to do it.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I can't get Douglas Fir (DF) anyway in the 2x3s, so I think I will be going with a 2x12 16 foot and a 2x8 8 foot sized framing lumber for the top. That should give me enough that I can rip it as needed and glue up a solid DF top.

Now I have to decide if I should return this HEM-FIR I got for the legs. I have not cut anything yet, so that is still an option.

It has a fairly reddish tone to it, so it actualy looks pretty similar to the DF.

But it would probably be better to stick with all the same wood, so I will probably return the HEM-FIR.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I had to do the same I bought 2x8 and 2x10. 
I got the leg up rights cut to width 1.5x 7.5 and 1.5 X3 .0 .
The 2X8 and 2 x 10 they were in the narrow side slightly under 7.25 and 9.25. The thickness was a nominal 1.5 .


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

So, the problem now is ... how the heck am I going to mill this stuff? I have what could be considered one of the cheapest, crappiest little table saws made ... a Skil 3400. Not sure if I should try to send it through and see what happens.

I do have a circular saw and some long pieces of L shaped extruded aluminum, but I don't know if they are 8' or not. 

Maybe that is my best bet. I guess I will be looking at dedicated ripping blades for my circular saw. Guess where I'm going over lunch?


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Here is a picture of mine. I made it completely out of hem fir except the vise which is made out of oak. I put the 2x3's for the top through the planer to remove the edges and then edge glued them. Once glued up I put the top through the planer to flatten it out. Since my planer will only take 13" wood I did the top in two sections then glued the sections together. I then sanded the middle to get everything even. The legs are made out of 2x4's and the back brace is a 2x6. The legs are cut out in the middle so that only the ends touch the floor. I did this so that it would not rock on an uneven floor. I also put levelers on each leg. There is also a place for tools built into the back.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks Art. My plan is to make legs in a similar fashion as yours, with 3 2-bys for a total thickness of 4 1/2". I am wavering between ripping them to 3" wide pieces which would give me 3 per board, or 3 1/2" wide pieces which would give me 2 with a 2" section left. I could use that in the top since the current plan for the top is to be 2" thick. Too many decisions!

Heh, maybe I should have kept the HEM.

I have not made any progress on mine as I was at work all day Saturday and spent my time on Sunday making a rail system for my circular saw. I could argue that that is progress, because I am planning to use it on the DF I got to rip it to size.

Once that is done, I can rip the 2x10s i have and make the legs.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I have a new plan. It uses the 2x10s I have already bought, but the rest is made with 2x3s. This is much more manageable and likely to succeed.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Playing around with Excel, I was able to plan the cut list out so that it uses exactly three 8 foot 2x3s for each of the two sides of the base. So I need six 2x3s for the base.

I bought all 6 of the 2x3s I need for the base today. I had to cut a few of the pieces at the store to get them short enough to fit in the trunk of my car. The minivan is in the shop getting a new transmission.

More updates later!


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I can see one potential problem with your design. you may not have enough clearance for pipe on the two ends.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Please elaborate ... I'm not seeing it. The ends and the long board going across the middle are all 2x4s.

I misspoke earlier when i said the rest is 2x3s. There are a few 2x4s in there.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

The 2x stock inside the well how are you going get by 2x stock looks like pipe is up against the tail pipe clamp . On front looks like you have 2x blocks inside your pipe well supports along the length.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

hopefully this will be clearer. the front well side is a 2x10. the only blocks in the way of where the the front clamps woulg go are above the legs. the other side of the well is a 2x4 on edge ... that is just like the standard nfwb, isn't it?


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I got my legs all cut and glued up today. It's too late for pics ... maybe tomorrow.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

You wont be able to slide the sliding part of your pipe clamp passed those blocks on the side on either end unless you make it wider in the middle.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Gary, I see what you are talking about. I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the heads up.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

My clamps (the 1/2" jorgenson ones) need 3/8" clearance on the sides. The support pieces are 1 1/2" thick. So the closest they can be to the sides of my pipe holders is 1 7/8". I want to be sure they clear the support pieces, so I added another 1/8", putting the edge of the hole 2" from the end of the pipe holder piece.

The pipe is 7/8" wide. So that puts the center of my hole at 2 7/16" from the end.

Measuring from the top, it is 3/4" (the thickness of the inserts) plus 7/16" for the center of the hole, making the center of my hole 1 3/6" from the top.

So I set my drill press up for that and drilled 4 holes.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

There is a lumberyard called TW Perry not too far from my home. I stopped there on the way to work this morning hoping to find a couple of 8' lengths of 2x4 Douglas Fir. I hit the jackpot. They have absolutely beautiful and dead straight CLEAR DF in 20' lenghts. They cut me two 8' lengths.

God willing, I will be drilling my holes for the face clamps tonight.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I got all the holes drilled, for both the face clamps and the end clamps. I spaced them 6" apart. That is a lot of freaking holes, especially because I went 1/2 way from each side to avoid tearout,

The pipe is 7/8" wide, and I used a 7/8" forstener bit. So naturally, the stupid holes are tight. I hope I can get a 15/16" bit. It doesn't have to be a forstener.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

You are saying that the holes were tight at 7/8. That means mine will be tight at 1 1/8 not good. I checked with my calipers pipe measured 1.058 inches about 4 thousands.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Yeah. The pipe does fit, but just barely and it can be a struggle to get it in. That is probably fine for the end clamps, but for the face clamps, I am thinking it should be easier to get them in and out.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Thinking about it, i might make a little template for my router to enlarge them a little.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

If you could rig up a way to attach some scotch bright to some thing you could put in a drill motor you could use it like a flap sander to ream them out to fit.

GCG


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

... or just buy this (the little one)









SEPTLS42139909 - Flap Wheels - Amazon.com

EDIT: I checked again and you can save some pennies if you check prices against shipping.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Great idea, Coast ... thanks!


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Hey Chris, Where your holes are "too tight", you can use a wrap of coarse sandpaper to create a custom "file". In my shop, we often have to "wallow-out" holes, because my Forstner bits are stepped in 1/8" increments. After your homemade file works easily, you can increase diameter with more wraps of sandpaper. Think of diameter changes on paper-towel rolls, but in reverse.
Otis


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Maybe you could take a 3/4 dowel and wrap 60 or 80 grit sandpaper around and sad it enough?


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Lunch breaks can be very productive when you are working from home!

I tried Otis and Gary's suggestions first, but I had a struggle implementing it.

Then I came across an Irwin 7/8" "Spreedbor" boring bit in a drawer. It turns out that when I use the boring bit with a hand drill, it bounces around in the hole a little, which opens up the hole just enough so that the pipe fits well, without very much slop.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

*More progress ...*

I got the front support put together and on the base. I also put the back side of the top together.

It uses a wedge based approach to secure the top to the base. This is very good at keeping it from getting wobbly. It also allows me to be able to easily take the bench apart if I should ever have a need to. This idea came from Paul Sellers' blog on building a workbench.

I used galvanized 2 1/2" deck screws that I have had for years for much of the joinery. I did not glue it (at least not yet). I can glue it later if need be.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Lookin' good Chris. I like the wedge a lot. That front rail (and the table as a whole) is looking much beefier than i was thinking. I may be re-thinking a bit. I may double up my legs, at least the back ones.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Looks real good Chris. The magic number of 1 3/16 is correct. Added 1/8 to that number used 1 5/16 but instead of 1/2 inch rabbit on the jaws if you use 3/4 clamps you have to take the 1/8 from the 1/2 rabbit making it 3/8. It make sense after you think about
the problem. I will make another couple test blocks to make sure tomorrow. Then I have 2 x 10 to rip 2 rails from. Glad to see someones making progress.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks Earl and Gary. 

Not much work tonight ... I got a 24x48 piece of MDF at HD and had them cut it into two 12x48 pieces for me. They fit just right, because my well is 12" wide (as opposed to the 11 1/4" of a standard 1x12). I am hoping to get the 2 cross supporting things on though. then all that is left is to get the long pipes installed, and it is usable.

Heh, then I still have the planing beam, crochet, and finish.

Gary, I'm a little confused ... are you using 3/4" pipe or 1/2" pipe?

I am using the 1/2" pipe, which actually is 7/8" outer diameter. That means the center is 7/16" from the edge. Adding that to the 3/4" thickness of the MDF for top, that puts the center of my holes at 1 3/16" from the top.

If you are the 3/4" pipe, the the outer diameter is probably more like 1 1/8" or something, so I would think you would add something closter to 9/16" to the 3/4", making the hole's center more like 1 5/16".

So ... what is the real outer diameter of the 3/4" pipe? Is it 1 1/8"? If it is NOT 1 1/8", then I don't understand how you got 1 5/16" for the offset.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I got the pipe today. They sell it in 10' lengths and I bought 3. I had them cut them as follows:

2 @ 96", threaded on both ends, for the long stretchers
4 @ 30" lengths from the other pipe, for the face vises and the planing beam supports

I am almost there! Time to start thinking about how to finish this beast. I think I'll try to stain the legs (made from whitewood) to look as similar to DF as possible. Then I'll wipe on a few coats of a home-brewed Danish Oil combination of boiled 1 part boiled linseed oil, 1 part turpentine, and 1/2 part satin poly for the finish.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Man Chris--you're flying now!! I looked at my lumber today as i walked past it. I did get a few shelves up on the wall above the current fixed bench. Emptied most of the top of the old bench off, so soon i'll be able to remove it to make room for the NFWB.

Current issue of Wood Magazine had a tip on making longer pipe clamps out of short ones by removing half of each clamping fixture and joining the pipes with a coupling. So stinking obvious--i'd have never seen it on my own.

Keep going Chris, i'm anxious to see how the stain turns out.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

earl, maybe so, but my wife thinks i've lost my mind. 

oh well, she'll get over it.

tonight was spent mostly watching the caps make a comeback against the hurricanes. go caps!


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I didn't get much done last night, but I did install the supports for the long bars.

I also got the end clamps inserted into their holders. I just set it down in place to see how it looks. I put a few of the cut-offs from the 10' pipes in the front holes and used 1/8" thick paint stirrers to lift the long pipes up a little. The 1/8" spacing between the pipes is very close to correct to get the 3/4" thick MDF well covers to line up perfectly.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I haven't had anytime last couple days. My boss though I was getting bored so he had me working full days. I am semiretired so normally work 4 half days. Got to recheck my measurements and redrill. You ask if I was using 1 1/8 bit yes a spade bit works great for fit . I clamp both pieces together and drill with my drillpress with stop block. Using scraps for testing. Not sure why my first attempt was off. Your almost home free now did you say your off about about 1/8 inch?


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

My stupid drill press table is not square or something, so I have to jump through hoops to get the holes to line up.

The 1/8" I was referring to is the space between the long pipes for the end vise and the pipes for the front vise (that go under the long pipes). I didn't want them touching or rubbing against each other so I designed in a space between them of 1/8". In the real thing it ended up pretty close to that, but not exactly.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Guess what I made a mistake it should be 1 1/4 here is why the hole top must be a 1/16 above the 3/4 cause the pipe smaller than 1 1/8 which its drilled with by 1/16 so you have to subtract 1/16 from 1 5/16. I will drill one more test set. If they come out right I'll rip my rails and the real ends.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

It's closer, but still not quite done ...

I got the pipes in place for the planing beam, and the holes drilled for the front clamps. The largest washers I could find were for 3/4" bolts, and they are a tad too small, so I had to get the dremel out.

And I can definately make an insert for my router. What is shown here is the router on the insert plate from my router table. It will be a piece of cake to make a plate for the bench.

I still need to make the planing beam, and mix and apply the finish. for the top, I am going with a mix of 4 parts Tung oil, 4 parts turpentine, and 1 part satin polyurethane. 2 or 3 coats. I will finish the base with some satin poly that has a pecan stain. That should make it blend in nicely with the douglas fir.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I added t-tracks to the bench tonight. There is a guy on another forum who was showing how he uses them on his bench, and I had a few 4' pieces laying around, so I figured it was meant to be.

Versatile small shop work bench - unique! - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

I like the t-tracks. I have a few sections as well.
earl


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Interesting build Chris. The t-Track will come in handy for adding new jigs on the top of the work bench. 

Your making great progress keep plugging away you will be done sooner than you think and then you can enjoy the fruits of your labour.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Looks good Chris. I did finish my legs up yesterday. The last one much easier I pocket holed all the pieces in place then drilled my pilot holes for the lags went together smooth. Would have been much easier to build if I had the bench built wold a have assemble the legs on the planing rail.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Not a very exciting update ...

I finished cutting the inserts for the well (using my new circular saw guide system) cleaned up the edges of a couple of the inserts I mangled, and put holes in them so I can easily take them out. I also made a 1/2" thick planing stop sort of thing that attaches to the t-tracks.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I really need to get my planing beam done. but I have (at least) been working out there ... I re-did the holder for the end vise clamp heads, put a shelf across the bottom, and put a power strip on it. The other thing I did was make a crochet ... when I want to use it, I just clamp it to the front with one of the face clamps.


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