# Wax for cast iron



## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

I have some somewhat high end Auto Wax from a company named Poor Boy's World named Natty's Blue. I contacted the maker and a rep assured me there was NO silicone in it. 

Would anyone still be scared of using it on a cast iron table saw top or band saw? Just trying to save a buck or two short term.

GCG


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## TomB19 (Jun 27, 2011)

If it were me, I would hate to try it and discover company mislead you when you realize your project has some unstained blotches. Almost all waxes contain silicone, with only a couple of exceptions, and yet a lot of manufacturers will claim the don't.

AT $20, Boeshield isn't particularly cheap but a can will last for a long time and will treat a lot of machines. I've used the King clone of it, coming in at something like $12 per can. It seems to work every bit as well.

It's so quick and easy to use, I can't imagine going back to paste wax.


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## argoknot (Dec 7, 2009)

I use Boeshield T-9 and I like it. You can also use Johnson's Paste Wax. Boeshield here Amazon.com: Boeshield T 9 Rust & Corrosion Protection Waterproof Lubrication 12oz (aerosol): Sports & Outdoors


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

I'm going for the Boeshield. Sears has it with the Rust Free for $21.24. I checked further and was told again the Natty's has nothing but Carnauba wax and Mineral Spirits so I'm feeling better about it. 

Thanks for the input guys.

GCG


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## rtaraby (Aug 20, 2010)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> I have some somewhat high end Auto Wax from a company named Poor Boy's World named Natty's Blue. I contacted the maker and a rep assured me there was NO silicone in it.
> 
> Would anyone still be scared of using it on a cast iron table saw top or band saw? Just trying to save a buck or two short term.
> 
> GCG


Lee Valley sells a paste wax (free of silicone) that is ideal for coating jointer and table-saw tops and fences. It is called Waxilit. $15.95 for a 7oz can


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## pretender74 (May 27, 2011)

I may be wrong but I have bben using Johnson's paste wax for a long while and haven't noticed any problems and it seems to work alright on my projects as a finish protector.Gary


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

that is all that i use. No wax for me. if the wax come's of the wood it is hard to get it off ?? i don't know i only use T-9 i live in florida and have no rust on any of my 6 machine's. Wax is good for car's ?? my 2 cent's


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I vote for the Johnson's paste wax. Besides using it on the saw you can also use it on your finished projects. If you buy Boeshield you will spend more than a few bucks that you are trying to save and the only use for it will be on your saw for the next two lifetimes.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

No rust problems here in the high desert of AZ. But, I use Johnson's on machine and jig surfaces (iron, aluminum, melamine, wood) to make the work slide easily and to sorta help with dust accumulation. 
Have had no problems with splotching or spotting on the work. 
I've used T-9 and can't see any differences, but then, rust hasn't been a problem, either.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I've been using Johnson's paste wax on my cast iron and other metal table tops for 55+ years with no problems. I even lubricate the gears and ways of the workings below the table top using an acid brush or tooth brush and the wax. It prevents rust, lubricates very well, and on the gears, etc. it develops a dry surface, even when applied thick, to minimize the build-up of saw dust. I have never had a problem with it causing any blotching in my finishes and never found a need to go with the more expensive rust preventers. I put on a new coat whenever my work doesn't seem to slide easily or about once every 6 months. When I pull out the wax I usually do all of the machines in my shop, so nothing is forgotten.

Charley


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

I think I'll go with the T9 Boeshield topped with wax. I really think being on the coast warrants an extra level of protection. Probably the Natty's since I have a good bit on hand. It's very good wax and after the second assurance on the content I feel safe with it. Using Johnson's on the moving parts sounds promising though, so it's not off the table.

Thanks again guys.

GCG


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

My shop is about 60' away from and less than 10' above a lake, which is a frequent source of fog and high humidity. Even in this situation, the metal and cast iron tops in my shop are rust free using only Johnson's Paste Wax. You can go with the more expensive stuff if you want to, but Johnson's has never failed me.

Be careful of automotive waxes. Most contain silicone, and any traces of silicone on your wood will cause all kinds of finishing problems. Anything containing silicone is banned from my shop. Nothing gets brought in unless I know for sure that it doesn't contain silicone. I ruined a project 40 years ago by applying a silicone based lubricant to a storm window slide that I was working on nearby. The spray contaminated about 1/2 of my shop and even though I cleaned everything with solvent, I still had finishing problems years later from it. My new shop will NEVER have silicone in it.

Charley


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Well it appears my decision has been made for me. Today I noticed one of the valve stems on a tire on my Xterra is broken about half way down the threads. Since this is one of the NEW pressure sensing stems, it'll have to go back to the dealership (confirmed - I checked). Estimate with tax ~$200.00. For a stem ... 

$200 FOR A VALVE STEM! 

Sooo ...

I'll settle for just the wax (Johnson's) for $5 vs. $22 for the T9 and chancing the Natty's. I hope the wax is enough, like many have said. ... We'll see.

GCG


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> Well it appears my decision has been made for me. Today I noticed one of the valve stems on a tire on my Xterra is broken about half way down the threads. Since this is one of the NEW pressure sensing stems, it'll have to go back to the dealership (confirmed - I checked). Estimate with tax ~$200.00. For a stem ...
> 
> $200 FOR A VALVE STEM!
> 
> That's because the auto makers don't believe you can be trusted to check your tires from time to time. What burns me is that they are not an option that you can chose to do without. I've heard they are $300 for some models here in Canada. But that is off the topic.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I have pressure sensing valve stem caps, but the stems themselves are normal on my new Jeep Grand Cherokee, but had no idea what they are worth. Now I'll have to worry about losing them too. I sure hope the hub cap thieves don't discover how valuable they are. They're easier to steal than hub caps.

Charley


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Charles; how can it _not_ be deleted?! What happens when you replace your tires?
Somebody needs to tell Nissan that's a deal breaker!!! $800 for new tires...and another $800 for NEW STEMS! They're out of their minds.
What tire dealership is going to _reuse_ your 5 year old stems and then warranty their work. Insanity.


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

I have a small bottle of the boeshield. I wish I'd bought a aerosol can of it, it'd be way easier to apply in a can than by drips.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Dan,

The valve stems on my car are the normal old style that have been used on cars since tubeless tires were first introduced. Any one can be replaced just as always. The unique part is the special cap that screws onto it. It's the cap that measures the tire pressure and not the stem. It transmits the reading to a sensor in the wheel well, which then sends the signal to the car's computer. I can rotate the tires with these caps still on them without causing any problem. They are all the same. The signal from whichever tire and cap is in the wheel well is sent to the computer and it's the receiver sensor in each of the wheel wells that determines the position. It only takes a few hundred feet of driving for the computer to get the new pressure readings after one or more tires are moved. I have no idea what would happen if one of the tire pressure sensors is missing, but I suspect that all it would do is not display the pressure reading for that tire, and maybe display a tire pressure error on startup. 

I could probably remove one of my tire sensors and see what happens, but your car is not the same make and model, so it may not prove anything. I have a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee with every option that was available for it and I sometimes think it's smarter than I am. It tells me where to go (talking GPS), turns on and off the lights and wipers, takes verbal commands for telephone use, etc. It has sensors and controls for everything, and I hope they all keep working.

Charley


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

The August 2012 edition of Fine Woodworking has an article on just this subject. "Got Rust" pg 30 Rust Protection That Really Works. Their top pick was CRC Industrial 3-36. You can order it on Amazon.

Amazon.com: crc industrial 3-36: Tools & Home Improvement


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> I have some somewhat high end Auto Wax from a company named Poor Boy's World named Natty's Blue. I contacted the maker and a rep assured me there was NO silicone in it.
> 
> Would anyone still be scared of using it on a cast iron table saw top or band saw? Just trying to save a buck or two short term.
> 
> GCG


I make my own since everything I have is cast iron "including my great grandfathers shipwrights tools" use standard parrafin (or old candles) - about 2 pounds, 1~2 quarts of mineral oil, and 3~4 oz of caranuba wax (ebay) - this is enough to last about 3 years. When melting I have found that a wal-mart crock pot and a stainless steel mixing bowl work great. Use soybean or cornoil as the heat transfer medium between the crockpot and stainless steel bowl to eliminate the possibility of water in the mix. When melted (on low or medium) stir and cast into an old muffin tin. When solid just rub and wipe.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Thanks all for the input.

I went to Lowes and got the Johnson's. Did another pass with the Simple Green with the Scotch Brite pad and my RO palm sander. Followed that with two coats of wax. Now the Band Saw table is rust free, smooth and shiny.

Thanks again,
GCG


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