# router fence



## mo34 (May 15, 2011)

Hello 
I'm in the process of building a new fence for my router table
Any good ideas or pictures you have would be appreciated.

Thank You
Mo34


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Hi Waly. This question comes up frequently. You'll find numerous discussions of the pros and cons of different designs by doing a search on "fence".

Also, take a look in this thread for pics:

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/17212-wanted-pictures-your-router-table.html


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

For many but not all occasions: Curtain fence, built for safety first.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Nice.


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## mo34 (May 15, 2011)

Hi Ralph
Thank You for the leads

Wally


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## mo34 (May 15, 2011)

Hi Pat
Nice Fence
Looks like your also a machinist

Wally


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Thanks for your comments.
****************************
Can drill, sand, saw & rout but little else.
Not a machinist, just make all mistakes for first 10 years +.
Then, at least, you stand a chance.
All processes simple and precise; it just takes time to learn what it takes to hit target.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Pat, that fence belongs in a glass case! I'd find it hard to use it and get saw dust on it!! Very nice!!!


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

mo34 said:


> Hello
> I'm in the process of building a new fence for my router table
> Any good ideas or pictures you have would be appreciated.
> 
> ...


Hi Wally:

Ok, I have a short cross bench fence and a long fence for the length of the table. I also have high fences (short and long) and I've defined the curtain fence (noted above) and the "L" fence. There is also a split fence that a lot of commercial vendors support. My fences work with "C" clamps and a fine adjusting tool. My high fences work well with feather boards and other hold down mechanisms. 

Which are you looking to implement?


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## mo34 (May 15, 2011)

Hi Ron
I'm looking to build an adjustable split fence not real tall
I have 1/2 inch baltic birch and 3/4 MDF 
Have plenty of T Track and Formica
Want good ideas
using my original (first style) Norm Abram style fence for wider table made many years ago.
Thanks
Wally


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Wally:



mo34 said:


> Hi Ron
> I'm looking to build an adjustable split fence not real tall
> I have 1/2 inch baltic birch and 3/4 MDF
> Have plenty of T Track and Formica
> ...


Ok, Norm's fence is a split style. Just look at what you don't like about it and what you would want to change, and duplicate Norm's fence with "some adjustments."

There's not much more to say. You have all of the different types of fences and now all that's needed are your adjustments.

If you need more specific information, please ask.


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## mo34 (May 15, 2011)

Hi Ron
Looking for other woodworkers ideas things they have done 
What they would do differently or what they have used and like.
Unique things ie. alum. top tracks , angle alum. for fence base
Norm's style is basic split I'm looking at a micro adj. split fence just ideas
to build a little differentl than the avg. fence.
I guess somthing with imagination

Thanx 
Wally
Wally


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

mo34 said:


> Hi Ron
> Looking for other woodworkers ideas things they have done
> What they would do differently or what they have used and like.
> Unique things ie. alum. top tracks , angle alum. for fence base
> ...


Hi Wally:

Interesting. Ok, there's the seven fences that I've noted above. I've not found a use for the split fence yet. There's the starting point. Some of you fellows with split fences aka "Norm's table" let's hear some of your variations and what you think of them.


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## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

I like the 1st Norm Abram style fence myself since it is adjustable both around the bit and on the outfeed side as well so you don't have to keep making a bunch of shims to hold the stock even on the outfeed side.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Racer2007 said:


> I like the 1st Norm Abram style fence myself since it is adjustable both around the bit and on the outfeed side as well so you don't have to keep making a bunch of shims to hold the stock even on the outfeed side.


Hi Richard:

Have you modified it at all? Any "special" uses?


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Richard:
> 
> Have you modified it at all? Any "special" uses?


One thing I've been thinking about is to rout grooves on the edges of the fence faces at the split, so inserts could be made with corresponding tongues. That way, one could bring the insert down close to the top of the bit - both for improved stock support and optimized above-table dust collection.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Ralph Barker said:


> One thing I've been thinking about is to rout grooves on the edges of the fence faces at the split, so inserts could be made with corresponding tongues. That way, one could bring the insert down close to the top of the bit - both for improved stock support and optimized above-table dust collection.


Hi Ralph:

I've seen dust collection ports sitting where you're talking about but not inserts. Consider that this is an additional point where your workpiece can get "caught up." You now have two seams and two edges instead of one edge. This will also introduce error -- this is one of the reasons I really don't like split fences. I like to set my bit height and then my fence and have everything line up.

A lot depends on what you're used to and what you've been able to make work for you. I see additional error but you see an extra safety feature and perhaps a correction to an alignment issue.

Others -- please chime in -- in my mind I'm having trouble qualifying a split fence and I'm looking for reasons to try it. I'd love to hear arguments in support of it (or cons too if you so desire)


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## mo34 (May 15, 2011)

Hi Ron:
Thank You for keeping this going
I like the split fence because it narrows to the width of fence to the cutter
Kinda like to a zero tolerence table saw insert would do (but without the tearout factor) 
It gives you support alot sooner to the cut of which has the profile the formed.
And this is where micro adj. would come to assist
Once again Ron, 
Thank You
Wally


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I've only been using this fence for a couple of months but so far I like it, I only opened the top part for the pic, haven't used a bit that tall yet. Faces are easily replaceable, just 3/4" MDF so any number of sets of zero clearance fences can be made. Just a t-track routed on the backside of the fence face. Also made one a bit thinner for the infeed side to use for jointing. I put the camlocks on the back for the lower part. I kept getting ahold of the wrong wingnuts and there wasn't a bunch of room for knobs. T-track along the front is about the right height for feather boards and the fence is a little over 6" high. Plenty for most vertical routing. Dust collection feeds down into a 2" hole in the table to a 1-1/2 inch hose, in the router cavity, Y'd to 3" PVC collector attached to the vacuum cleaner.
I dunno, works for me


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## mo34 (May 15, 2011)

mo34 said:


> Hi Ron:
> Thank You for keeping this going
> I like the split fence because it narrows to the width of fence to the cutter
> Kinda like to a zero tolerence table saw insert would do (but without the tearout factor)
> ...


:no:


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## mo34 (May 15, 2011)

Hi John
I like the split & spilt fence simular to a shaper fence It looks well thought out
Thank You 
Wally


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi wally

The split fence it the best way to go, many router bits don't have a bearing on them and you need a offset out feed fence to pick up the stock once you remove some of it with the router bit..
I should note I don't have or use the split fence my router tables fence has bars the slide in the fence that moves it out by 1/16" or 1/32" just like a split fence but I don't need to unclamp the fence or readjust it.

I don't care for the tall fence on the router table it's in the way most of the time and it's always a PITA to run stock by the bit when the stock is on it's edge..

I use the best of both worlds 
http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/9782-best-both-worlds.html

=====


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> The split fence it the best way to go,


The split fence is one of 7(?) and has it's strengths and weaknesses. I use a chunk of 2x4, jointed. Works like a charm.



> many router bits don't have a bearing on them and you need a offset out feed fence to pick up the stock once you remove some of it with the router bit..


The only way I can see this being the case is when the bit removes stock across the entire face of the workpiece. This usually only occurs when you're attempting to joint a workpiece with a router bit. You don't want to use the bearing on a bit for jointing. It just gets in the way. 

That said, I would use an "L" fence with a template to ensure even stock removal and predictable dimension.



> I should note I don't have or use the split fence my router tables fence has bars the slide in the fence that moves it out by 1/16" or 1/32" just like a split fence but I don't need to unclamp the fence or readjust it.





> I don't care for the tall fence on the router table it's in the way most of the time and it's always a PITA to run stock by the bit when the stock is on it's edge..


I use my tall fence as a mounting point for a featherboard to press the workpiece down into the table surface. A second one is attached to the table edge and pushes towards the fence. Rather than a tall fence for vertical oriented pieces, I'd rather use a horizontal router either in a sled or a vertical table.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I can't wait until you have a REAL fence and find out all the neat things you can do with it unlike a 2 x 4 , I have been down the road with a 2 x 4 fence and in time you will see what I'm taking about..

This is not my 1st. rodeo  I have 8 router tables..

===



allthunbs said:


> The split fence is one of 7(?) and has it's strengths and weaknesses. I use a chunk of 2x4, jointed. Works like a charm.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## mo34 (May 15, 2011)

Hello
I've run into unsecured outfeed router moulding fence support on occasions ie. full bull nose bits,stacked moulding set ups when profile takes thickness height of board.

Wally


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

mo34 said:


> Hello
> I've run into unsecured outfeed router moulding fence support on occasions ie. full bull nose bits,stacked moulding set ups when profile takes thickness height of board.
> 
> Wally


Hi Wally:

Do you recall the circumstances Wally? I sort of see an infeed like any ordinary fence and an outfeet matching the profile of the bit. Is this what you're referring to?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> I can't wait until you have a REAL fence and find out all the neat things you can do with it unlike a 2 x 4 , I have been down the road with a 2 x 4 fence and in time you will see what I'm taking about..


Actually I'm finding the "L" fence the most intriguing at the moment. I'm trying to dream up ways that I can use it. The least intriguing for me is the split fence. I respect that others may chose it over other options but I prefer the other options. They seem to work well for me.

I'm on my fourth evolution of router tables and rather than constantly rebuilding a base I'm opting for changing tops. This seems to work OK except for the torsion table. I've experimented with a re-sized ski table and it seems a little tipsy so I'll be rethinking that one a bit before committing good hardwood to the project.



> This is not my 1st. rodeo  I have 8 router tables..


Do you have 8 of the same table, or one table for each of 8 methods? If it is the latter, help us out please and post pictures of each and their methods. I've seen your Sears duplicator, and your Sears router lathe and probably one of your split fences and your vertical table. What other ones do you have?


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## mo34 (May 15, 2011)

Hello Ron,
I guess in short is there is not true board support on the outfeed ie. full half round bull nose is cutting the complete face of profile even if you have a true edge before you begin the cutter has to remove the total edge and I even used playing cards to adjust outfeed fence.Just the way a jointer's bed works it removes the total face
I have have made 3/8 cove and bead moulding on a grandfather clock and used
sheets of newspaper to micro adjust outfeed fence because all of the cut being made was profiled ,all flats was being removed.
I also had out feed problems on making small boxes. 
I have been woodworking as a hobbiest for over 32 years and I have run into this
situation on more than one time.

Thanks
Wally


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

mo34 said:


> Hello Ron,
> I guess in short is there is not true board support on the outfeed ie. full half round bull nose is cutting the complete face of profile even if you have a true edge before you begin the cutter has to remove the total edge and I even used playing cards to adjust outfeed fence.Just the way a jointer's bed works it removes the total face
> I have have made 3/8 cove and bead moulding on a grandfather clock and used
> sheets of newspaper to micro adjust outfeed fence because all of the cut being made was profiled ,all flats was being removed.
> ...


Hi Wally:

Excellent. Now I understand what you're doing. I use a template tacked to the top of the workpiece. This ensures a straight, consistent edge bearing on the fence. It accomplishes the same thing. This is most useful when doing 45 degree lock mitres on the router.

Thanks.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ron


See my uploads you will see them all 

" I'm currently using 626.67 MB to store 10,005 uploaded attachments. "

======



allthunbs said:


> Actually I'm finding the "L" fence the most intriguing at the moment. I'm trying to dream up ways that I can use it. The least intriguing for me is the split fence. I respect that others may chose it over other options but I prefer the other options. They seem to work well for me.
> 
> I'm on my fourth evolution of router tables and rather than constantly rebuilding a base I'm opting for changing tops. This seems to work OK except for the torsion table. I've experimented with a re-sized ski table and it seems a little tipsy so I'll be rethinking that one a bit before committing good hardwood to the project.
> 
> ...


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## mo34 (May 15, 2011)

Hello Ron,
Could you please get in a little more in depth of your template.
I'm not sure I understand
Is this a negative or reverse profile ?
Is this more time consuming to a set up than micro adj.? 
Call me dumb.

Thank You for the response,
Wally


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

mo34 said:


> Hello Ron,
> Could you please get in a little more in depth of your template.
> I'm not sure I understand
> Is this a negative or reverse profile ?
> Is this more time consuming to a set up than micro adj.?





> Call me dumb.


No way in hell. 

Hi Wally:

Take your workpiece and tack a straight edge to the top of the workpiece. The edge to be milled on the workpiece and the edge on the straight edge should be parallel with the straightedge and overhanging a little bit. This overhanging part is what presses against the fence. Set the fence so that you get a partial cut on your workpiece. Keep increasing your depth of cut until you have your final product. Remove the straight edge. For the straight edge I slice off a piece of jointed 2x4 about 1/4" thick. If I'm really finicky I'll use a piece of maple the same size. (That's firewood for me.)

I always work with a full-sized workpiece and once my milling is complete, I'll slice it off on the table saw. That's where left tilt table saws are really handy. Ummm, don't forget to take off the straight edge before you slice off the molding.

_Is this more time consuming to setup than micro adj??? _I don't know. Depending on what scrap I have in the workshop at the time, most of the materials for straight edges is readily at hand as a normal part of the milling process.

I hope this helps. Your method works well for you. This is what I use but I'm game, I'll try your's the next time I'm doing molding.

Ron


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## mo34 (May 15, 2011)

Ron,
Your way is well thought out,
Likewise I will try your way it seems simple enough.
Question: Do you pin nail the template or double face tape?
also how do keep inward pressure to the fence?

Thanks again
Wally


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## aldepoalo (Mar 31, 2011)

Very nice write up


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

mo34 said:


> Ron,
> Your way is well thought out,
> Likewise I will try your way it seems simple enough.
> Question: Do you pin nail the template or double face tape?
> ...


Hi Wally:

Ok, a lot depends on how much waste there will be from the molding process. For example, if I'm doing a 3/4" OhGee and my cuts are going to end up being 3/4" deep on both sides of the workpiece and I've got 2" of scrap in the middle, I'll actually screw the straight edge to the scrap with brass wood screws. I have inherited a selection of sizes. Small finishing nails are also possible but I don't like pins. They don't seem to have the same holding power as a brad or a screw. In a worst case scenario I could also use a healthy Ardox (screw) nail driven part way in. I recommend the use of pilot holes for screws and nails.

But, a lot depends on your materials and what you're looking to accomplish. If you're using expensive hardwoods for your mouldings, your method would be far better because of much less waste. My method is for pushing stuff out "to get the job done."


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

aldepoalo said:


> Very nice write up


Hi Al:

Yup, it is amazing sometimes what can be "discovered" in a simple discussion. Sometimes, there's enough information to come out of something like this to write a book.


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## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Richard:
> 
> Have you modified it at all? Any "special" uses?


Actully I don't have it , one of my buddies has one and he pretty much left it the way it was designed. What both of us like is that you can adjust the outfeed side for different amounts of stock thickness when running parts thru so that if you take of 1/16" or 1/8" or whatever you still have full support of the piece on the outfeed side so as not get any snipe on the end of the piece as you finish the cut.
I am sure it would be fairly easy to adapt to use replaceable inserts for different size and shapes of bits.


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