# Deep Spline Slot Jigs



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

It's true you can do this on a Table Saw but it's tricky at best.
And you still need to make a jig to do it.
When you make a Face Frame (for case work) or Picture Frame longer than 14".
It's hard to keep it sq. to the fence because of the mass.
With this router jig the stock is flat and you have control of it.
One quick push and you're done and it's right on.


Bj 

Note: I may need to add (snapshots) to this post,because it takes alot to tell you about this one.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

*add on*

Add on snapshots


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I'm not pushing the lathe just some links to help 

Looks like Harbor Freights Lathe has gone through the roof.
But here are some links that look good.
I have had mine for about 12 years, that maybe just the way things are going now days up▲ and up▲ and up ▲.
I did not check on eBay but that's a thought.(USED)(2nd Hand).
Links below ▼

Lathe - Metal (Mini Metal Lathe)
http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,876.html
Sale Price: $399.99


Precision Mini Table Lathe
http://www.wttool.com/p/3003-0025?utm_id=44
Your Price $449.00


Shop Fox Mini-Lathe Metal M1015
http://gallery.bcentral.com/ProductDetails.aspx?GID=4308581&PID=4250369
Price: $341.99

8" x 12" PRECISION MINI LATHE
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44859
$439.99

Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a add on note 
Once you buy a LATHE, you want to know where you can buy add on items/parts and what eles you can do with it.
How about a wooden boat with a real steam eng. and many other items, i.e. a belt sander to sharpen your fine tools. (see links beow )

I use the web site below all the time to get the items I need.
" littlemachineshop " just a pass it on tip.

Again I'm not pushing the web site just some links to help. 

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/products.php?category=-139540609
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/default.php?Source=Google
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Products/products.php
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2515
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/products.php?category=-1402768559
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=2717

Bj


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

Sorry Bob I for one have not been convinced how this works. This requires some more information to illustrate how it all works.
Tom


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

template tom said:


> Sorry Bob I for one have not been convinced how this works. This requires some more information to illustrate how it all works.
> Tom


Tom,

The router bits are going to cut a Horiz. slit into the point of the frame corner in which a spline will be inserted to fortify / strengthen the corner miter joint.

Most of the jig pics are backwards... facing you instead of away from you into the router... the last 2-3 showed in the way they would be used.

Hope this helps... hope I'm correct.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Almost 100% right BUT no router bits just the saw blades do the work 
Just like the table saw but it's done on the router table where you have full control and you can put the slot in stock anywhere you need it with one quick pass on the router table and all 4 corners will line up right on the button.

Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

OOps... slip of the tongue... of course, little itsy bitsy saw blades do the cutting.


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

As I said Bob there was no Pict to explain that the saw was to cut the external corner of the frame and therefore would be seen on all the four corners. I suppose it could me made a feature if you like that sort of thing.
Tom


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Tom, I will try again...

The saw blade will cut a horizontal slot into the point of the fram in the jig.
If you look closely, you can see the slot.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/2235-deep-spline-slot-jigs-s5.jpg


Here, you can see a horizontal slit in the front side of the jig... this is where the saw blade is cutting and will eventually cut a slot in the pic. frame as the jig is pushed through the saw blades.
I don't know how to say any simpler than that.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/2234-deep-spline-slot-jigs-s4.jpg


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just more snapshots


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Bob,

That use of the small saw blades sure looks good to me... not only for spline slits, but for anytime you want a simple slot cut.

I went back where you showed how to get it together... 
Bolts, I think want to be 1/4" or 1/2" for the shanks so they can fit into common collets. It looks like you're using 5/8, 3/8, etc. How can you fit them into the collets?

Also, you mention they should be Grade 5 steel... I guess we just go to local hardware store to get just any ole bolt, right?  So, where do does one get them?

The nuts holding the blades onto the bolts... I take it that there is no confliction of thread direction whereby the nuts could be loosened during the operation, right?

I don't remember where you got the saw blades... could you please add some links to where we could the blades, as well as the bolts (if special orders required)?

Thank you.

BTW, nice pictures showing just how the jig is used for the cuts. 

I don't have a metal lathe & don't plan on getting one. Nor do I have a wood lathe.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Well you don't need to have a Lathe (see Grizzly link below) but it's nice to make your own arbors for the router. (see other links ) Arbors=I put the snapshot in to show how easy it is to make your own (arbors ) ,you can't get the long ones anywhere that I know about.

The blades I got from HD (at 12.oo dollars ea.) and Lowes has them also but I found a new place that has them a bit cheaper ,see links below. (cheap SOB I am ) 

This jig makes it so easy to put in spline slots and it's safe because the stock is flat on the router table top so to speak, many picture frames are small and it can be tricky to hold them in a table saw jig but this one will hold just about any size safe.

Just a note about the G5 bolts .many hardware store have them, they will have 3 marks on the head,the G5 bolts can be reworked unlike the G8 that have 6 marks on the head and the bolts that have no marks on the head are called G2 it's bit to soft for router arbors,that's say it can bend if it's over loaded.
5/8" G5 bolts= If someone wants to make there own arbor they will need to start with a 5/8" dia.bolt and turn it down to 1/2" so it can be used in the router, almost all bolts are not true size,that's to say they can be rolled on threads or cut threads but they are not true dia. size. 
Then once the bolt/arbor is done it will need to have new threads put on I used 3/8-24 because I had some brass nuts I wanted to used but I did use steel ones ,the norm. size is 5/16" or 8mm but I want a bigger nut.
The wrench size for a 5/16' nut is 1/2" and the 3/8 is 9/16" more torq.and holding power.

Links ▼

Blades at a great price ▼
http://cgi.ebay.com/IRWIN-MARATHON-...hZ019QQcategoryZ79708QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/IRWIN-MARATHON-...hZ019QQcategoryZ79708QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem

G1438 Slitting Saw Arbor(s) that can be used in the router
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g1438
http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5622

Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Bob, thanks... helps a lot.

One other thought... I would think that the RPM's used would want to be reduced...
Any special concerns with that?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Speed=I use the lowest speed on the router, If I recall the blades are ok to run up to 10,500 RPM but the blades are marked with the max speed they want you to spin them at.

Bj


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Bj you might want to mention the strip of backer board you used on your jig. This looks like a nice safe way to put in the slots.


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## seawolf21 (Jan 19, 2007)

*How about this method?*

I made some picture frames to accomodate some of my 8 1/2 x 11 woodburnings. I was going to try and cut some splines in the corners but I thought of another way. I turned the frames over on the back sides and drilled a 1/2 inch hole with a forstner bit in half the depth of the frame in the center of the joined corner. I then cut and glued 1/2 inch dowels in the hole,sanded them flat after the glue dried.

Gary


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

seawolf21 said:


> I made some picture frames to accomodate some of my 8 1/2 x 11 woodburnings. I was going to try and cut some splines in the corners but I thought of another way. I turned the frames over on the back sides and drilled a 1/2 inch hole with a forstner bit in half the depth of the frame in the center of the joined corner. I then cut and glued 1/2 inch dowels in the hole,sanded them flat after the glue dried.
> 
> Gary


That's a good idea! Thank you!


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

Bob. You have excelled yourself with the various pics, now isn't that better than referring members back to other various pages and getting them lost.
It certainly is a safe way to achieve what you set out to do and I suppose adding another piece of material to the edge would conceal the splines.
When we submit answers to questions surely it is much better to produce pics the way you have this time. This makes it very clear for all to see and understand.
Tom


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Great trick Gary. Sometimes simple is better. Thanks for the idea.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

The simple way, just put some glue on both parts of the joint grab the brad air nailer shoot in two nails and your done. 
No fun no challenge but it's done quick and easy.

Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Tom 

That should help others a bit I hope, show and tell can be hard sometimes. 

I'm not sure why I would want to "conceal the splines" that would be like putting in dovetails or box joints or a bow tie and then go back and try and hide the joints with some another piece of material.

I think they show I took the time to make a strong joint plus make it sharp looking with two types of wood the norm.
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"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions." 
MIKE
Senior Moderator
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template tom said:


> Bob. You have excelled yourself with the various pics, now isn't that better than referring members back to other various pages and getting them lost.
> It certainly is a safe way to achieve what you set out to do and I suppose adding another piece of material to the edge would conceal the splines.
> When we submit answers to questions surely it is much better to produce pics the way you have this time. This makes it very clear for all to see and understand.
> Tom


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Thanks Tom
> 
> That should help others a bit I hope, show and tell can be hard sometimes.
> 
> ...


Hey thanks for the additional pics Bob. Especially of the fence your using. I agree... I wouldn't want to try to cover them up. They really are attractive in my opinion and you usually get some contrast even with all one kind of wood since the end grain in most timber will end up darker. Very nice! 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome and Thanks Corey

I guess I could use biscuits and I have in the pass but they just don't work as well, the splines do it right, the biscuits joints need to be clamped and the spline jig works great, it lines the parts up and just a bit of glue and a tap in with the spline and they are tight no clamps needed the norm.

I also like to see the splines, I use walnut or maple most of the time 

The T & G fence works like a champ I have may inserts for many of the router bits I have and use the same type of fence on two of the router tables.
I use the inserts for chip breakers and for safe way to route on the table, no deep black hole to fall into when I make a pass and it helps the vac system pull out the chips from the bit and below the router base plate.


Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Thanks Tom
> 
> That should help others a bit I hope, show and tell can be hard sometimes.
> 
> ...


Hey Bob,

I really like that spline cutting jig!

It's a lot SAFER than doing it on a table saw... it's kept nice & flat and is about as simple as rounding-over an edge!

I personally like contrasting wood splines so they DO show up... I think it's a touch of Class to see them... like a DT in a drawer.

Thank you for sharing.


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## seawolf21 (Jan 19, 2007)

Bob couldn't a person use a biscuit slot cutter in the router table for a spline insert? 

Gary


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## jfacteau (Dec 10, 2006)

yep !


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Gary

I don't see why not ,you can take off the bearing from the slot cutter and just use the fence then it will put the slot in a bit deeper.  1/8" to 1/4" is a big deal when it comes to spline inserts.
(when you remove the bearing just use some small OD washer to fill the space, the ones off other router bits work nice for this job) it takes 4 or 5 to fill the bearing space the norm. 

But I should say if it's the router bit type slot cutter,the standard biscuit slot cutter (blade type) has a big center hole (24mm or 7/8") in it the norm.

Gary***** I did make a jig for one of my biscuit cutter tools that I used b/4 I setup the router table to do the job, it didn't feel to safe but it did work, I still have it setup ,so if you want to see a snapshot of it just ask and I will post it.
It's a easy jig to make and it clamps the tool into a vise with the tool up side down and locked with 1/2 of the blade sticking out.

I should NOTE **** that this blade setup can be use to put in the 1/8" slot to hold the glass retainer strips in cabinet doors, that will save you about 40.oo bucks for that bit, the bit is sold without buying the full set of router bits the norm.

Rubber Glass Retainer/Brn/25ft

(Sommerfeld Tools) unique retainer strips fit perfectly in the 1/8" slot created by the slot cutter bit in our glass panel set to hold your glass securely in the frame


http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item.asp?n=glass&d=116&b=1
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item.asp?n=03003&d=85&b=1
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/item.asp?n=01017&d=85&b=1

Substitute for the bit above at about 1/2 the price. ▼

Slitting Saw Arbor
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g1438

HSS Slitting Saws - 3-1/2" x 1/8" x 1" 30T 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9484
Note this is HSS blade made to cut/rework steel.

HSS Slitting Saws - 4-1/2" x 1/8" x 1" 36T 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G9495

Bj 




seawolf21 said:


> Bob couldn't a person use a biscuit slot cutter in the router table for a spline insert?
> 
> Gary


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I have been talking about the Grizzly Blade(s) and the Grizzly Arbor that can be use to put in the deep slots ,I guess I should post a snapshot or two showing how it's used in one of the other router tables.

Here are some pictures of that.

Bj 

Here's a GLUE UP TIP I found today , mix up some bottle water (NOT TAP WATER) and some white vinegar up in a spay bottle (50 / 50 mix) keep it on hand, when you glue up the miter joints and the glue comes out of the joint spay the mix on the glue joint and wipe it clean with a clean rag , in this way you will not see the glue when you put on the stain and it will take the stain like it should 
So-called "white vinegar" (actually transparent in appearance) can be made by oxidizing a distilled alcohol. 
Alternatively, it may be nothing more than a solution of acetic acid in water. Most commercial white vinegars are 5% acetic acid solutions, although some states such as Virginia have laws prohibiting the sale of any product not made from acetous fermentation of alcohol as vinegar. 
They are made from grain (often maize) and water. 
White vinegar is used for culinary as well as cleaning purposes.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Nice Bj. Sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words. I have a question tho. Third picture, top middle. What is that gismo that looks like it has 4 bolts screwed in at 90* angles, and different colored tape or markings?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

That's a setup stop for other bits, Let's say I making rails and stiles and I need to change the bit I just unsnap the fence and swing it out of the way just a bit to get to the router bit from the top side of the router table then when I have the new bit in place I swing the fence back in place the STOP puts the fence right back to the same spot that it was in, so I don't need to rezero the bearing up again.
Almost all router bits are matched that's to say the cutter is in the same spot from the bottom of the bit and the bearing are the same size.

I should note*** that it works great when you don't have a bearing to work with like a thumb nail bits,etc. that take off the edge of the stock.
The stop will let me put the fence right back to the same stop if I need to get that same setup back after using some other bit that's why the diff.colors of tape and paint on the screws , I used a small block of Alum.stock ( 3/4" thick x 1 1/4 " sq.) and drilled and taped the holes out for 1/4-20 thread and used some toggle bolts because they are full threaded and have a lar.heads and they must be cut to the right size, but can be moved in and out just a bit.
I now have about 10 screws that I can screw in and use,from 1" long to 6" long.

--------------
"picture is worth a thousand words" see below ▼


Bj


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## seawolf21 (Jan 19, 2007)

*Wiil this jig work?*

Made this little spline jig. I wonder if it will work. 

Gary


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Gary

Nice job 

I don't see why not, MAY I suggest one thing, put in a 3/4" or 1" wide slot 4" long in the base part of your jig and use a brass guide in the router table base plate, this will keep the slot true and keep the bit from removing any part of your jig.

Gary ***
With the great jig you made you now can put in Spline Dovetails if you want all you need is a Long shank dovetail bit ( 14deg. or a 7 or 8deg.bit ) you can make the splines on the table saw or the band saw just rip the stock with the grain, make one pass and then flip it over and make one more pass and you have a hardwood spline that you can tap into the dovetail miter corner slot. 
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1433
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1431
http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5573
http://cgi.ebay.com/11-pc-1-2-SH-Do...emZ130087381297QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/14-pc-Dovetail-...emZ130087660999QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

Note ***when you rib the stock for the splines don't trap the stock to the fence use a offset block and your miter guage to push the stock by the blade.

You may say you have no way to hold a PC type brass guide in your table top it's a easy fix. see picture below,,,,,,Once you have the hole in the top cut the PC base down to that size and drill and counter sink two holes to hold it down in the router table then make one more with a 2 1/2" hole in it, out of some hardboard or 1/4" plastic and use the PC one to drill it out at the same place so you can pop it in when you don't need the brass guide in place and you want to use a bigger bit.

Bj 

Gary*** one small note ,you may want to pickup the LONG bit below, this will let you put in deep slots into the miter joints, this is a hard bit to find and at $11.50 plus 6.00 it's a real deal. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-4-SH-3-B...emZ130087660977QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem
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Router Replacement Bases
SuperTuff Router Mounts
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...tml/pages/routacc1.html#brass_template_anchor
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GARY ***** By the way how did you make out on your ShopVac. ? ?
http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/4066-dead-shopvac-live-sears-vac.html






seawolf21 said:


> Made this little spline jig. I wonder if it will work.
> 
> Gary


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## seawolf21 (Jan 19, 2007)

The ShopVac is gone but I am using my Craftsman 16 gal. for cleanup and I bought a dust collector which is attached to my router fence. Plenty of sucking power now.

Gary


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## seawolf21 (Jan 19, 2007)

Good idea about the brass guide. I don't want to tear up the jig.

Thanks
Gary


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

*Tks Bj!*

Thanks Bj for the definition and the pics. The pics really say it all.  Now I have another question. Second picture, top left, of last pictures. What do the "milk bones" have to do with routing?  Are those a quick snack?  This way you can spend more time in the shop and not have to go in the house.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

Dog bones= food for a day or two. 

Well sometimes that's true, the dog bones do come in handy when I just got a new tool (toy) and the boss just got the bill in the mail  , if she can't find me she can't rag on me  

Bj


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## Router is still my name (May 3, 2006)

http://www.dovetailspline.com/

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/rjig-1.htm


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Router

Just a NOTE  

The Jig that Gary (seawoft21) made will put in DoveTail Spines all day long, all he needs to do is pop in a dovetail bit and make a pass or two.

See the picture of his jig above 

Bj


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## Router is still my name (May 3, 2006)

> The Jig that Gary (seawoft21) made will put in DoveTail Spines all day long, all he needs to do is pop in a dovetail bit and make a pass or two.


Been thinking about making one myself but I'm so behind on all projects. adding one more would get the boss all worked up. she's been waiting for her CA king size bed frame a year now  

The cold weather exuse only lasted few months in houston


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Router

You could use a 3/4" or a 1" wide dovetail bit in the jig and make a Neat bed frame : 
Kill two birds with one stone so to speak. 

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_dove.html

Bj :


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## Router is still my name (May 3, 2006)

Yeah, I could when/if I get around to it( one of these days ) . I made her this last summer and few other things ( router only tool used )  
The bed can wait until I'm finished with the large speakers. HaHa


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Router 

That's NICE I like it 

Bj


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## Router is still my name (May 3, 2006)

Thank Bj  

It's funny, She wants to buy me a table saw to get the bed frame going. I said no need,I've done without one so far .. ha she don't know I'm to freaked out about using them...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Router

"freaked out about using them" Me Too, I have two and I must watch my P's and Q's when I use them, they can get you quick and I ALWAYS use push sticks, my hands or fingers don't come close to the blade at anytime.

Bj


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hi Router and Bj,
I'm glad to hear that I am not the only one afraid of the table saw. That thing scares me to death... actually so does all power tools but that's a good thing isn't it? :'(


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George

Yep keeps you on your toes   I have re·spect for all things that can take my body parts away in a sec.

Bj


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## Router is still my name (May 3, 2006)

> ALWAYS use push sticks, my hands or fingers don't come close to the blade at anytime.


with my track record, I would have to fence the table to keep myself safe


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