# 1/2" dovetail bit with a 1/2" shaft



## Tom M (Apr 6, 2010)

I can't figure out any way to use my 1/2" router bit with a 1/2" shaft on my Craftsman Jig. The shaft is to big to go through the hole in the proper size bit guide for 1/2" dovetails. I am using a Freud FT2000E router and FT2020 Guide kit. I can use a bit with a 1/4" shaft, but I have a Ryobi bit set with 1/2" shafts. I like 1/2" shafts much better. If I can't figure this out, the dovetail bit with the 1/2" shaft seems to be usless. I hope I made myself clear on what I'm trying to do. Thanks. Tom M


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tom

The short would be you can't..  1/4" shank router bit will be needed..


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Tom M said:


> I can't figure out any way to use my 1/2" router bit with a 1/2" shaft on my Craftsman Jig. The shaft is to big to go through the hole in the proper size bit guide for 1/2" dovetails. I am using a Freud FT2000E router and FT2020 Guide kit. I can use a bit with a 1/4" shaft, but I have a Ryobi bit set with 1/2" shafts. I like 1/2" shafts much better. If I can't figure this out, the dovetail bit with the 1/2" shaft seems to be usless. I hope I made myself clear on what I'm trying to do. Thanks. Tom M


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## Tom M (Apr 6, 2010)

I'm pretty new to routing, so what can I use my dovetail bit with the 1/2" shaft for?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I've run into that too, Tom.. My 1/2" shaft 1/2" bit works great with my Incra but I need a 1/4" shank to hold the bearing necessary for my Katie Jig.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tom

They can be used for many jobs,sliding dovetails for just one of them,a true locking rabbit cut,drawer joints, and the list just goes on and on..  but you must get the 1/2" diam.bit out of your head, think of the bigger dovetail bits like 3/4" diam.one.. and the smalller ones like the 1/4" diam. ones..not the shank size but the diam. of the bits. 

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Tom M said:


> I'm pretty new to routing, so what can I use my dovetail bit with the 1/2" shaft for?


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

What's the point of that joint Bob ? Looks to me as if you could pull the hardwood front right off without any mechanical resistance.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Gav

No real mechanical resistance in the dovetail joint just a quick way to use plywood and hide the end grain of the plywood and with two small 1/8" or 1/4" dowel pins will lock the drawer front in place if needed but with the glues we now have the pins should not be needed..the glued in plywood bottom of the drawer will do most of the work.. 

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gav said:


> What's the point of that joint Bob ? Looks to me as if you could pull the hardwood front right off without any mechanical resistance.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Ok, i see that works, but it doesn't seem to be much stronger than a non-dovetailed drawer joint. If the cuts were reversed for the side and front, it looks like it could be stronger and not need the dowel.

Just wondering.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Gav

True, the sliding dovetail is best but the ends do like to snap off very easy,the dovetail angle just locks in the side part of the drawer in place..so to speak and keeps the drawer sides from bowing out, just a real quick way for making drawers  and all done with one dovetail bit and only one setting of the bit height I like to use the 3/4" dovetail bit for this easy job.

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gav said:


> Ok, i see that works, but it doesn't seem to be much stronger than a non-dovetailed drawer joint. If the cuts were reversed for the side and front, it looks like it could be stronger and not need the dowel.
> 
> Just wondering.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Thanks for the info, it's all getting filed in my brain for when I make some drawers.


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