# Edging the table



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Got the RT top done and want to edge band it. It's a double layer MSD at 1.5" thick.
I want to put a wood edge around it and was thinking of using edge banding bits to do the job. Well, none of them will handle 1.5" thick stock.
Any ideas?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

Use the T & G bits, the same way 
You will need to use the longer 1/2" shank arbors..with a extra bearing or spacer in place to get the height...

The set below will have the extra bearing you will need plus it comes with shims..and you can put in a 3/8" wide slot..not the norm for most of the 
T & G bit sets.

http://cgi.ebay.com/11pc-1-2-Shank-Slot-Tongue-Groove-Router-Bit-Set_W0QQitemZ140216871617QQihZ004QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
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You can also use the 1/4" slot cutters but it will take a bit of setup and a pass or two but you can use the trim bit to get it right on..after...

You can also use the router bit set below.
NOTE the bit set below is at a great price, about 1/3 of the norm,,,if you check the price on the same set in Freud/CMT/Whitehouse it will be over 110.oo bucks if not more...
http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-ENTRY-DOOR-RAIL-STILE-SET-NR_W0QQitemZ200208278752QQihZ010QQcategoryZ50387QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

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AxlMyk said:


> Got the RT top done and want to edge band it. It's a double layer MSD at 1.5" thick.
> I want to put a wood edge around it and was thinking of using edge banding bits to do the job. Well, none of them will handle 1.5" thick stock.
> Any ideas?


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

That rail and stile set looks great. I have it on my watch list.
Thanks Bj.
http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-ENTRY...ryZ50387QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hi Mike,
How about just cutting some 1 1/2" strips of the wood of your choice, then glue and brad nail or glue and screw them on the edge. I did the glue and brad and then routed it with a roundover. It's been over a year and still looks good.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome Mike

I have been looking at that bit set for the last 30 to 60 days or so , I wanted one also BUT I will Not bid on this one one I will wait I don't want to push up the price.. 
Here has them up for sale all the time,they go for about 45.oo to 51.oo bucks.
The norm...I have some of his bits and they are great and real SHARP...
The last set I got was for the Incra Hinge Jig,,,they are good as the CMT brand ...JUST green  almost the same color as Grizzly bits but better..
and just a bit darker but it's hard to tell them apart when they are next to each other in the same box, the only way I can tell is one will cut your finger and the other will not...

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AxlMyk said:


> That rail and stile set looks great. I have it on my watch list.
> Thanks Bj.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAND-NEW-ENTRY-DOOR-RAIL-STILE-SET-NR_W0QQitemZ200208278752QQihZ010QQcategoryZ50387QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

curiousgeorge said:


> Hi Mike,
> How about just cutting some 1 1/2" strips of the wood of your choice, then glue and brad nail or glue and screw them on the edge. I did the glue and brad and then routed it with a roundover. It's been over a year and still looks good.


I've really given that some thought. Still undecided.
I'm going to keep an eye on the bit set though. Judy wants new doors for the bedrooms and bath, as well as all the closet doors. Just might turn out to be a busy summer.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> I have been looking at that bit set for the last 30 to 60 days or so , I wanted one also BUT I will Not bid on this one one I will wait I don't want to push up the price..
> Here has them up for sale all the time,they go for about 45.oo to 51.oo bucks.
> The norm...


I see where they have gone for the initial listing price of $39.95. That's a nice bit set for that money.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mike, I have to agree with George, what's the problem with cutting strips, putting mitres on the ends, glue in place, strips of masking tape can be used to hold in place 'till glue dries if you don't want pins. Knowing your high skill level, I'm sure we must be missing some important point Mike.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Mike, I would simply glue the edging in place and clamp it. The glues we work with are stronger than the wood itself so no worries about it not holding up. That is how I built my first router table.


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## fibertech (May 7, 2005)

George and Harry are on the right track. Norm (NYW) did this on his router tables. He used 2 layers of MDF, covered with a laminate top and trimmed with 3/4 x 1 1/2 Oak strips that he mitered and chamfered. The result was very nice. -Derek


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Perhaps I'm over-building it. I have a load of #8x1.25" sheet metal screws that ought to work.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This I just have to see Mike, some shots when it's finished?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I'm not to sure why you would want to put on edging on a MDF top.

If the top is plywood I would say yes but other than that I would just say just round it over ...and be done with it. 

As you know MDF can't take any fastner that goes in the side(edge) of it. it may be just a small nail/brad it will always open the stock like a book, not at 1st. but it time you will see the smalll bump, MDF is funny stuff to work with...

But if you want to put a nice looking trim ,the banding bits is the way to go.
No nails needed, when the slot is put in just right and the banding bits will do that.
Or to say any matched set of router bits will do a great job as well.

The new banding bits they have out now are great for that job.
But if you have 2pcs top then you must use a bigger bit set unless you make the top pcs.just a bit bigger than the 2nd part to the top.

You can always go back after it's glued up and rabbit the 2nd part back to let you use the banding bits...on the top part of the table to put a nice looking Oak trim on...


http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_edgeband_ogee.html#edge_banding_anchor

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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> I'm not to sure why you would want to put on edging on a MDF top.
> 
> ...


I guess I have to agree on the uselessness of it. I think I'll just joint the edges and be done with it. 
Go ahead Bj. Bid on the bit set.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

I have a 90* V-groove bit set or "banding bits" from Grizzly, they work great. I do recommend that if you decide to purchase a similar set, get the 60* T&G set. You'll get more surface area for glue ups.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

OK Will do, and I just did ,,,you know what they say you snooze you lose 

Door bit sets are hard to find at the right price..



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AxlMyk said:


> I guess I have to agree on the uselessness of it. I think I'll just joint the edges and be done with it.
> Go ahead Bj. Bid on the bit set.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

Just a update,, I did win the bit set and I did luck out ,I got it for 40.oo plus shipping from CANADA..

When I get it, I will post how to use the bit set for edge banding  on the 1 1/2" thick MDF router table top... (2ea. 3/4" thick MDF with Oak side trim) 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEBTOX:IT&item=200208278752&_trksid=p3984.cTODAY.m238.lVI

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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

Just a small update 

I said when I got the bit set I would do a cut or two showing how to use the bit for banding a router table or anything else that's 1 1/2" thick,,, I didn't use MDF stock in the snapshot below just some ruff cut 2 x 4 stock I had on the bench , but it's 1 1/2" thick and should show how it's done I also didn't want to waste some Oak so I used some of the same 2 x 4 for the banding and I sure you will see what I'm talking about,, 


I should NOTE *** Just about any R & S matched router bit set can be used for banding a plywood board edge or shelft just need to use it backwards so to speak.. 



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bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> Just a update,, I did win the bit set and I did luck out ,I got it for 40.oo plus shipping from CANADA..
> 
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Good demo Bj and a really good price for the cutters but other than for edging high quality furniture, I can't see a use for them, I certainly wouldn't go to that trouble for a router table, unless of course my wife allowed it in the lounge room, and what do you think the chances of that are?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi HARRY

The set is made for making *ENTRY DOOR RAIL & STILE SET*


But they can be used for so many other jobs,like most router bits sets can.
Keep a open mind and you will see the other jobs they can do so many router bit sets can't do more than 3/4" thick stock and that can be a pain if one puts on a top layer to the main part of the top..
i.e. 3/4" thick top and a 1/4" thick hard board for just one setups..

You don't need to use the full bit ,you can just use 1/2 the thickest or to say just part of the cutters...

If you have priced a entry door it can blow you away or just a plain inside door can do the same , most are very cheap doors pine frame and some 1/8" thick plywood...
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how about a coffee table that looks like a nice router table that's low and has a place for a book or two on the shelf below  and maybe a pull out for a tea pot  

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harrysin said:


> Good demo Bj and a really good price for the cutters but other than for edging high quality furniture, I can't see a use for them, I certainly wouldn't go to that trouble for a router table, unless of course my wife allowed it in the lounge room, and what do you think the chances of that are?


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Thanks Bj. I can still do the deed to the table. Still thinking on it.
Nice bit set.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome Mike

And thanks,, but do try one of your R & S bit sets I think you will be amazed and easy it is to do.. and how well it comes out and you had the bit set all long  works great on a plywood edge becasue as you know plywood is undersize....stock..but do use feather boards to hold it down and to the fence also use wider stock and then rip it to size after, in that way you can do 2 parts at one time so to speak...(banding) plywood is no big deal but do use a board (clamp to the fence) or feather board to hold the plywood down to the table top, note it must be done in one pass.

Just a note***most R & S bits have a bearing on them use it to set the fence, some come with only one bearing on one bit, use that one 1st, use a stop block on the back side of the fence to get it back to the same point after you switch the bits out, you can also use some masking tape or a pencil to mark the table top so you can get the fence right back to the same place after the bit change...

Once you do it a time or two you will always put banding on your projects becasue it's so easy to do and it puts that nice touch to the project..

Open/End grain is always nasty looking and it's one of the hard things to finish on any project..but once it's banded it's clean.. 
One of the neat things about using R & S bit's no fasterns are needed it's self locking so to speak ,if you pull one shim out of the bit ,,,,,(the female bit) 

Just one more note***** if you send off for one of the bit sets (door sets) besure to check the nuts on the bits b/4 you use them, I didn't I forgot to and one did spin just a bit ,it's going to remove alot of stock in one pass and it needs to be real tight... I got a bit noise and I said what the hell and it was the nut that had come free...

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AxlMyk said:


> Thanks Bj. I can still do the deed to the table. Still thinking on it.
> Nice bit set.


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