# Outdoor wood for window frames



## arkusm (Apr 29, 2010)

Hello all, I am looking for some advice on what type of wood to use for my shed project. The plan is to build a shed with skylights, not the type to do anything the easy way I decided to build the skylights myself using a rail and stile contruction method. I figured that this way I can learn how to do the rail and stile on non-finiture application. Anyway.....

I am looking for thoughts on what type of wood to use. I am not set on finish yet though the whole look of the shed will be more rustic than modern. I would be willing to paint the frames, but obvoiusly am lookin for the least amount of maintainace as possible. Likely the sides of the shed will be clad in cedar. (I know, the maintainace issue!) environmental conciderations would include weather from -30C (-22F) to +30 (85F) and generally very low humidity, though for a month or so it can be very wet. I live in Calgary, Alberta FYI. 

I was thinking maybe teak, maybe cedar, but was worried about strength with the R&S frame. 
Thanks in advance.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mark

You may want to think about using *Cypress* Lumber, it is strong and will last outside for a very long time 

cedar is very soft but will stand up also but it does like to shrink..a lot.

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arkusm said:


> Hello all, I am looking for some advice on what type of wood to use for my shed project. The plan is to build a shed with skylights, not the type to do anything the easy way I decided to build the skylights myself using a rail and stile contruction method. I figured that this way I can learn how to do the rail and stile on non-finiture application. Anyway.....
> 
> I am looking for thoughts on what type of wood to use. I am not set on finish yet though the whole look of the shed will be more rustic than modern. I would be willing to paint the frames, but obvoiusly am lookin for the least amount of maintainace as possible. Likely the sides of the shed will be clad in cedar. (I know, the maintainace issue!) environmental conciderations would include weather from -30C (-22F) to +30 (85F) and generally very low humidity, though for a month or so it can be very wet. I live in Calgary, Alberta FYI.
> 
> ...


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Hello Mark! Welcome to the forum. I have to agree with BJ, You could go with cedar or cypress on the whole job. I have had good luck with cedar. It's a little light, but I haven't seen a lot of shrinking. I have some on My front porch that is about 15 Yrs old, and I have stained it twice, and It's doing good. Cypress is the better wood, but price may dictate a bit. Also, cedar may chip a bit more in the router table. Just some thoughts for You!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Teak is a great outdoor wood, but usually rather pricey. I like BJ's suggestion of cypress. If you don't want to paint, pressure treated wood might be an option.


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## arkusm (Apr 29, 2010)

Thanks for the suggestion and affirmations. I will see what is available around town and a what costs. 

@ CanuckGal I thought about pressure treated but I find that the small dimension lumber warps badly and to rip down larger stuff removes the treatment.. I will look at what is available nonetheless. Thanks for the suggestion.

Cheers.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Mark:

Your local sawmills should have tamarack. It has characteristics similar to cedar. I'm using it for joists and beams on decks.


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## mango wood (May 30, 2010)

thanks for the info


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## ZABOI (May 18, 2010)

Mark
I Use PT pine all the time for outdoor projects and you don't loose the treating by ripping down large pieces the wood is treated all the way through. It will also take paint very well if you give it time to dry.
ZABOI


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

Douglas fir is another choice.

Regards
Jerry


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## Lucywu2012 (Jul 21, 2010)

Aha, why choose the bamboo, in my opinion, it's better than wood!


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## eam (Aug 7, 2010)

Sugar Pine. Extremely dimensionally stable, and at least the old growth was very rot resistant. You might want to take a look at some boat building books for design tips - this is a typical design problem encountered for hatch covers and nautical sky lights. Good wooden boat builders never build a surface that water can puddle up on. 

Erik


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## awoodnut (May 2, 2009)

I have rebuilt a couple of sunrooms that tried home made wood skylights. They had lots and lots of silicone and roof patch on them trying to keep water out. 

The weather they get on the roof is brutal with the change from hot to cold and moister getting in the wood and drying out. 

You mite consider looking at the local restore for used skylights and just build and flash your own curbs. Not as fun a project but a lot less maintinace as the skylights will be metal frame or metal clad like the velux brand.

I did preatty good finding the old bubble style skylights for a hot tub cover and a barn I did.

Good luck
Mike


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

The highend skylights these days are proprietary materials that aren't wood, but do wrap a wood skeleton. Other models near the top wrap wood skeleton with metal, and/or vinyl.


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## arkusm (Apr 29, 2010)

Thanks for the opinions folks. The project has been delayed until spring so lots of time to figure something out and hunt materials.

Cheers.


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## arkusm (Apr 29, 2010)

Though I have not decided what wood to use yet, and may change the details of what I am doing to a fixed clear roof instead of individual opening panes, based on some comments. 

I used Google SketchUp to mock up an idea for a window panel. Using the Rail/Stile method but instead of putting the glass/polycarbonate into the rabbit I thought I might put it on the top surface to prevent water build up. This way I get the opening windows and a more rain proof window. Of course this will depend on finding the right sized channel for the top edge. 
Here is a link to my idea.
Shed Skylight detail | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
Thanks for everyone's suggestions.


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