# Finish for food ????????



## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Okay I am getting my hands on a piece of Maple, so I am thinking about making a cutting board for Christmas present swapping thing We do.... My Question is what would be the best finish for this that is food safe and or glue if needed, I think Titebond is approved once dried by the F.D.A. ??????


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## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

I have been using mineral oil, which gives a nice sheen to the wood. I am told that shellac, once dry, is foodsafe. I'm thinking of trying that soon. Mineral oil has to be renewed from time to time, but I imagine shellac wouldn't last forever, either.


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## Tool Home LLC (Sep 18, 2012)

papawd said:


> Okay I am getting my hands on a piece of Maple, so I am thinking about making a cutting board for Christmas present swapping thing We do.... My Question is what would be the best finish for this that is food safe and or glue if needed, I think Titebond is approved once dried by the F.D.A. ??????


The safe, economical way to go is mineral oil. You can get it at just about any drug store for a reasonable price. An alternative is a product sold by Boos for cutting boards. It contains some orange oil so it smells good. I think that functionally, they are the same. The standard admonishment is to coat it with the oil liberally the first day a few times, and then about once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and as needed after that...

It depends on how much you use them and wash them. I've found that once a month when they are busy, isn't quite enough.


Tom


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I use mineral oil Warren. You are correct, Titebond is safe.


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## Maroonram (Jul 10, 2012)

*Cutting Board*

Titebond III is waterproof and perfect for what you are doing.

Use Butcher Block oil or Walnut Oil. You can also use Salad Bowl oil but let it cure for 24 hours after you apply it to your board.


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Thanks for the suggestions, it is supposed to rain all weekend so I may not be fishing and find myself in the shop getting started


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## argoknot (Dec 7, 2009)

If you use mineral oil make sure it's food grade. Other choices are tung oil, beeswax, almond oil and coconut oil.


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## Tool Home LLC (Sep 18, 2012)

argoknot said:


> If you use mineral oil make sure it's food grade.


Good point! If you buy the laxative mineral oil from the drug store, you're safe.




argoknot said:


> Other choices are tung oil, beeswax, *almond oil and coconut oil*.


Do almond oil or coconut oil go rancid? Most vegetable oils will.


This article from Fine Woodworking addresses the issue.


Tom


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

Well, this food safety issue w/ finishes as a potential health hazard has been debunked for years now - basically any modern finish once cured is safe. Bob Flexner in his excellent book has nearly a full page discussion (p. 76) on the myth (to use his own word); also for those interested checkout the first page of an article he wrote HERE (click the image to zoom; the entire article is $2 to download).

Of course the major concern in the past was lead in finishes (paints and as metallic driers), but lead was outlawed in these products decades ago. Some substances, such as shellac, are even used to make certain foods & candies (the hard coatings). And also keep in mind that many of these commercial products are often just 'wiping varnishes', e.g. the 'Salad Bowl Finish' pictured below has the contents shown in the table.


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Hey John, I have Tung oil and according to this info it will probably be safe also ???? Also I was wondering would it be best to coat and let dry sand then coat and repeat a few times or should one coat be enough, having never done anything that will involve food prep or food holding am I too old fashioned and worried


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Any comments on applying a mixture should I sand in between coats lightly or just reapply a few coats then maybe hit a light sand ??


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## Harrison67 (May 30, 2012)

papawd said:


> Hey John, I have Tung oil and according to this info it will probably be safe also ???? Also I was wondering would it be best to coat and let dry sand then coat and repeat a few times or should one coat be enough, having never done anything that will involve food prep or food holding am I too old fashioned and worried




Tung oil can be applied in several coats, the wood gets a better sheen with more coats. Apply, rub it in with a clean rag, sand lightly, and you're done.

No need to sand between every coat, only when you think it's needed.


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## Maroonram (Jul 10, 2012)

Cutting boards are great homes for bacteria. I had a career in the hotel, resort and restaurant business. We cleaned all of our butcher block surfaces with vinegar. Soap and water is not adequate and never put it in a dishwasher. Like any of your wooden kitchen bowls or handles you need to re-treat your wood every so often to keep it from drying out and cracking.


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## maurosnickare (Nov 18, 2011)

Hi, i will use olive oil or walnut oil..just remember to refresh the coat sometimes..4 or five coat will do..


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Ended up making 7 cutting boards and each one got about 10 coats of butcher block brand oil (I guess thats the right name) on them and sanded lightly with a 320 grit on the first 2-3 coats then 600 grit on the last 6-7 coats, they looked great thanks for all replies


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## ray ridgeman (Jan 23, 2013)

cutting boards are best made from bamboo which is natural anti microbial. cutting boards should not be finished only OILED with CUTTING BOARD OIL a food grade mineral oil oil should be re applied every couple month or so depending on the dryness of climate


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## ray ridgeman (Jan 23, 2013)

clean your board with rock salt and a half a lemon as scrubber


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## ray ridgeman (Jan 23, 2013)

the reason one should not put finishes on cutting boards is the knife will always cut the finish and that's how bacterias will contaminate the surface this is true for tung oil as well even though it looks so beautiful not recommended.


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## retired doug (Oct 10, 2010)

Supposedly any of the clear finishes are food safe after they cure completely. We had a Deft finish rep give a presentation at our club and that was his response. The use of lead is in colored paints from foreign countries used on toys. I use a mixture of beeswax and mineral oil on laminated rolling pins, cutting boards, and other kitchen utensils because it is easy to maintain. Mineral oil will not turn rancid over time like cooking oils will.


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## Stan Richardson (May 23, 2013)

Lol John, I also would have thought of that


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

My teacher recommended grape seed oil to finish a cutting board.

I have seen a comment that oil that has not been heated will not go rancid.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> I have seen a comment that oil that has not been heated will not go rancid.


Quite possibly from me. I contacted a food professor at the local university and asked him about it. He stated that unused cooking oils do not go rancid. Oil that has reached a certain temperature, as in cooking, will go rancid. I've used unused cooking oils, of different types, on various projects for well over 15 years, and none of it has ever gone rancid. Never tried any on a cutting board, because I don't make cutting boards.

Here's a bit of info on wooden cooking boards some of you probably are not aware of.
Wood or Plastic, and Why | Eat this now


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## pagedeveloper (Sep 17, 2014)

*Walnut Oil???*



Maroonram said:


> Titebond III is waterproof and perfect for what you are doing.
> 
> Use Butcher Block oil or Walnut Oil. You can also use Salad Bowl oil but let it cure for 24 hours after you apply it to your board.


Has anyone used the walnut oil?? How does it dry, and is it safe for someone that has a nut allergy??


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

pagedeveloper said:


> Has anyone used the walnut oil?? How does it dry, and is it safe for someone that has a nut allergy??


I have used walnut oil on toys but not on a cutting board. It holds up reasonably well on toys but I think there may be better alternatives for a cutting board. As far as the nut allergy issue you can Google walnut oil and find there are opinions that say because it has been heat treated it should be safe. The walnut oil sold by Lee Valley has this disclaimer " Nut oil may affect people with nut allergies, even on a finished product. If reselling a finished product, customer should be advised of finish."


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I've seen mineral oil recommended before. It should be hypo allergenic at least compared to a nut oil. I tried a product called Naturoil (sp?) and it worked okay but nowadays I don't usually bother putting anything on a cutting board. It's possible the oils may interfere with the woods natural bactericide properties.


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