# Ingra i-box jig



## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

I have been reading and researching a bit about the Incra I-box Jig. I wondered has anyone on the Forum ever seen or used one. I watched the video on You Tube, and it was pretty impressive. 

I am interested in making some box joints and this looks like an easy fix for me. I am new to wood working, but trying. I find I make a lot more mistakes than good projects. 

Hope some one has used one or knows more about them than I do. If this subject has been posted before, I missed it as I can't spend as much time at the Forum as I would like.

Thanks for any forth coming information.

Frank


----------



## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

It works a treat, follow the setup and cutting procedures as instructed and it's virtually bulletproof. 

I use mine on a table saw, no tearout to speak of and setup time is about half the time it took me to setup my "former" jig.

The "kiss" approach really works well, throw any blade in the saw, setup the Ibox and get to work.

Typical Incra quality and accuracy. 

For kicks, using my rip blade, I tried out some 1/8" fingers on 1/4" ply, lots of cuts but the joints came out great. One does need a flat ground blade to get it "perfect", however, Freud glueline leaves a rounded kerf bottom on blind cuts.


----------



## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

*Table Saw or Router*



gallianp said:


> why are you not using your router?


From what I saw in the video , either a Table Saw or Router may be used.

Relax, don't get your saw dust all twisted down there ! ( Saw Dust is Saw Dust ! )

We all need to work as a 'team' , if we are to make saw dust !


----------



## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I haven't used it myself, but I know the inventor and he took the time to show me how it worked. He is an North Carolina Woodworker, Inc member and I am as well. It is a very versatile jig that can be quickly set up for either router table or table saw use and any width box joint from 1/8" to about 3/4" (if my memory is correct). I will be getting one, but probably not until later this year. When it finally happens I'll post a review, if no one else has before me.

Charley


----------



## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I haven't tried it either but box joints although simple enough take a while to do. I'm sure that the jig will be much easier. I spent a day building a fancy jig (I now see that someone else built one and put it on Youtube). The jig looks great and is very adjustable. The problem is that it takes for ever to set up and I can never remember how to use it.


----------



## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

gallianp said:


> why are you not using your router?


Just my preference.

I like the "linearity" of the cutting action over bit rotation for this particular joint.

If you always use the same dado blade, once the “kiss” is done all one has to do is turn a knob to set any width of finger (within the limits) by dialing in a practice cut. 

A change in joint width on a router would require a new kiss and I find it a little more difficult to find top dead center of cut on a router bit than simply kissing a tooth on a table saw blade.

Work surface on my table saw is larger, nicer to work on and a little more quiet, too.

Bill Huber uses his Ibox on with this router table setup, looks pretty good for those who prefer to spin cut the joints. 



mgmine said:


> I spent a day building a fancy jig (I now see that someone else built one and put it on Youtube). The jig looks great and is very adjustable. The problem is that it takes for ever to set up and I can never remember how to use it.


Yep, that’s similar to the one I made and used for years, fine adjustment is great but one still needs to figure out the initial setup, the Ibox is much easier to dial in…. it’s almost embarrassing how easy it is.



CharleyL said:


> I haven't used it myself, but I know the inventor and he took the time to show me how it worked.


 I followed posts from guy on Sawmill Creek, brilliant concept.


----------



## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

*Incra responses*

First, thanks to all who posted. I am still in the learning stage of any and all wood working, so advice is appreciated. 

Thanks agin.


----------



## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Paul, my dado and box blades are by Oshlun, nice setups at reasonable prices if you're in the market.

I see no reason whatsoever not to use a router table except perhaps for the bigger fingers approaching the 5/8"-3/4" size where hogging out the material might be a bit much.

Shoot, you oughta' get that jig booted up asap, it's a joy to use.


----------



## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

Here is a decent review.

Mine is scheduled to ship on Monday and hopefully the South African customs won't delay the clearing process.


----------



## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

gallianp said:


> sounds to me that you are the one getting all twisted!
> 
> I purchased the jig (ibox) it has arrived (a week ) ago still have not set it up.
> If I want to use it on my TS I have to buy a better dado blade (more $$). Purchased for my router table but it seems that more people use it on their TS -- I was and am just gathering opinions.
> ...


It was NOT meant as a "unkind" post !

You are reading too much between the lines in my post.

Sorry if "you" took it the wrong way !

SMILE !


----------



## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

*Hope and Praying for you...*



gallianp said:


> Thanks for the kind encouragement -- I have been under the weather for a long while.
> 
> Maybe next week I will set it up on the router table - then if I am unhappy I will move to the TS.
> 
> Rev Paul


I hope, and pray that you get happy. It will be good for your soul. 

"...the tongue is like the rudder on a ship. Small movements can make a big ship move in any direction." Book of James in the new testament. 

Have you read this ?


----------



## almost there (Apr 12, 2011)

*Incra I-box backer boards*

Incra sells pre-drilled backer boards made of 1/4 inch mdf. One of the videos done by newwoodworker.com, on the i-box stated that wise people will use this backer board as a template for making their own. That's nice for people who can find mdf that thin. I personally have not used synthetic wood, but I do have masks and fairly decent dust control, for when I do. 

I am wondering what others who have used the i-box have used for backer boards._Lee


----------



## almost there (Apr 12, 2011)

wondering what you have tried for backer boards instead of 1/4 inch mdf supplied with the jig


----------



## almost there (Apr 12, 2011)

oops -looks like I cannot spell INCRA correctly!


----------



## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

I would stick with the 1/4" MDF. Lowes carries it, others likely do also...

Shop 1/4 x 48 x 96 High Density MDF at Lowes.com


----------



## almost there (Apr 12, 2011)

that review pretty much convinced me. And for less than what I was going to spend for my alternative jig, I got the i-box, router bit set and hinge crafter, a set of hand screws and a forest two blade dado. Waiting for them to arrive from Incra.com. My intent is to do the 1/4 and 3/8 inch joints with table saw and the larger ones with router table


----------



## almost there (Apr 12, 2011)

*backerboard for box joint jigs*

I must live in a depressed area. I called two lowes stores-the only one in my county and the one in the next town east---all they sell in mdf is 3/4 inch. they do sell utility plywood (the guy said some people call it luan). wondering how luan (I prefer because shorter word than UP) would do for backer board material


----------



## Ben I (May 21, 2010)

Good Morning Frank

If you plan to make box joints on a table saw there is a slight problem that is associated with the dado set. The set on the outer blades creates a socket slightly flared at the bottom. This effect is even more pronounced using a wobble dado blade. 

Freud sells a set of two blades designed specifically for box joints. The set is limited to making 1/4 or 3/8" sockets. These blades seem to work pretty well for me.


----------



## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

almost there said:


> I must live in a depressed area. I called two lowes stores-the only one in my county and the one in the next town east---all they sell in mdf is 3/4 inch. they do sell utility plywood (the guy said some people call it luan). wondering how luan (I prefer because shorter word than UP) would do for backer board material


Yeah, guess its not carried in most stores, and at 79.00 shipping charge, you don't want to order it! However Home Depot does carry it in 2X4 peices for 6.37 and my HD shows 49 in stock. A bit more expensive that way, but also easier to handle:yes4:

Model # 1508104

Store SKU # 354221


----------



## bobsnewheart (Dec 25, 2010)

I have the Incra box jig and it looks slick in the video but I've been fiddling with it for a couple of days and can't seem to get it. Admitedly I'm a novice woodworker but I am not stupid. I can't get the fingers and the joints to fit tightly. The holes are always biggerthan the fingers. What Am I doing wrong?....anyoneone have an answer.


----------



## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

Not a specific answer, Bob, except that my Incra ultra fence *IS* slick, but it takes lot of practice to get good at it. Read nd retread the directions. Call Incra if you don't get it, great customer service.


----------



## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

bobsnewheart said:


> I have the Incra box jig and it looks slick in the video but I've been fiddling with it for a couple of days and can't seem to get it. Admitedly I'm a novice woodworker but I am not stupid. I can't get the fingers and the joints to fit tightly. The holes are always biggerthan the fingers. What Am I doing wrong?....anyoneone have an answer.


Are you using it on the table saw, or router table?


----------



## bobsnewheart (Dec 25, 2010)

Hi:

You seem to know what you are doing so I thought I'd ask for some advice. I am not a novice woodworker but not highly experienced either. I recently purchased the finger joint jig and while I think I have followed instructions to the "T" I still cannot get a good fit. The fingers almost always come out a little smaller than the holes. The video that came with the jig shows a tight fit and I'd like to get that. What am I doing wrong?





TomE said:


> It works a treat, follow the setup and cutting procedures as instructed and it's virtually bulletproof.
> 
> I use mine on a table saw, no tearout to speak of and setup time is about half the time it took me to setup my "former" jig.
> 
> ...


----------



## bobsnewheart (Dec 25, 2010)

I'm using a table saw with stacked dado blades.


----------



## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

Sure you did the 'kiss' calibration up front?


----------



## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

bobsnewheart said:


> I'm using a table saw with stacked dado blades.


If the calibration was done accurately(I would double check), the only thing I can think of is too much runout on the arbor/dado set. If you have a dial or digital caliper, setup the dado set for 3/4", cut a dado and check the width of that cut. if it is much more than .750" that could be your problem. 

Otherwise, if setup properly, it should be nearly impossible to get inaccurate cuts with that jig. If your sure of the setup and saw alignment, and the dado width is good, I'd call Incra.


----------



## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

Duane you may be onto something except that when setting up the Ibox you use the initial cut to determine the width of the rest of the fingers.

Then the following cuts are made by placing the cut finger over the aluminium spacers (essentially a key).


----------



## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

cagenuts said:


> Duane you may be onto something except that when setting up the Ibox you use the initial cut to determine the width of the rest of the fingers.
> 
> Then the following cuts are made by placing the cut finger over the aluminium spacers (essentially a key).


Hilton, you are correct. There is a micro adjust feature to allow different spacing... possibly need to reset? Hard to tell what is going wrong without seeing exactly what is being done!


----------



## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Duane and Hilton have covered any suggestions I would have.

As far as joint tightness itself, I go for a snug fit that will go together with hand pressure, not one that would require mallet tapping for a dry fit.


----------

