# Danish Oil Finishing on Walnut Countertop



## pixchick (Dec 1, 2008)

Hello All - I'm new to this forum and am posting for the first time. I posted this first in the INTRO section and just realized I should have posted it here instead. So sorry for the double posting - I know that's a no-no. 

I've looked through the previous posts and am stuck on a detail of finishing using Danish Oil. I'm doing a walnut countertop and so far have: stained it, put on two coats of shellac (sanding w/600 between coats - I know - overkill) and one coat of Tried and True Danish Oil. I hadn't planned on sanding between Danish Oil coats, but I'm reading in this forum that many of you recommend light/wet sanding before the second coat of Danish Oil... and yet.... some of you don't. I'm not sure what to do and wonder if the Tried and True Danish Oil (Polymerized Linseed Oil - according to the can) needs a different approach than other Danish Oils you all are using. So far the countertop looks beautiful and I don't want to misstep this far into it. (It's not perfect... but it's beautiful!)
I was planning on at least three coats of the Danish Oil then possibly a top coat or two of Tried and True Varnish Oil. My concern about the Varnish Oil is that in my test pieces it remains a bit tacky for quite a while. Input? Advice? Wisdom? Help!? 

Thanks!
Maddie


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Maddie and welcome to the forum.

I am far from a finish expert, but do think that if you have applied shellac, you have already sealed the wood and any further application of "oil finish" will be a waste as it will not penatrate the wood and will only become slow to dry and/or sticky. I would not do much else except finish with a varnish type coat at this point and leave it alone. Be sure you have temps warm enough in the area to allow proper drying and curing according to the produuct's instructions.

Perhaps Jerry Mayfield will be along shortly to further assist, he is our finishing Pro. :sold:


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## pixchick (Dec 1, 2008)

Hi Bob - Thanks for your info... I see what you mean about sealing the wood with the shellac. Clearly I am far from a finishing expert too! When I decided on the Tried and True Danish Oil, the directions I got were to do two coats of shellac as a grain filler on the walnut, with a fair amount of sanding between coats. Then to put on 2 or 3 coats of the Danish Oil and a coat of Varnish Oil. I did several test boards and they all came out looking and feeling lovely with the shellac followed by the Danish Oil. I followed the directions on the can and did a REALLY thin coat, rubbing in well after 5 minutes and letting sit for 8 - 10 hours. I'm pleased with it so far.... but the key is to do the best thing to make it wear well. It's a kitchen counter top and though I won't be cutting on it - it will be getting some use. I don't expect or want it to be shiny and pristine... just durable, pretty and food safe. 

Will follow your advice on keeping the area warm - it's not been cold, but could be warmer. Jerry Mayfield? I await your wise words....


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I have on many occasions described how I finish with Danish oil. Until my current project where I've sealed with Shellac, all previous projects have had between 3 and 5 coats of quality Danish oil straight onto the wood, no sanding between coats, only a wipe with a tag rag. Depending on weather conditions I leave each coat to harden for between four and twenty four hours. The final coat I leave for as long as possible, at least two days. I then rub down with 0000 grade wire wool using Johnsons wax polish as a lubricant, I finish rubbing when I have achieved a low gloss, glass smooth finish. The RUSTINS Danish oil that I use is certified for children's toys, and so is safe for food.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the forums Maddie.


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

I agree with Bob you have sealed the wood atleast partially. Polymerized oil -linseed or tung- is heated to about 500 degrees in the absence of air(add a resin and dryers you have varnish) this causes the oil to dry faster than normal finishing oils and can be built to a gloss finish. While this oil is a little harder than the average oil it is nowhere near as hard as a good varnish. These products are very expensive: the danish oil is about $130.00 a gal,the varnish oil $160.00. I don't want to hurt your feelings but they are not a good choice for a kitchen counter that besides the wear and tear is exposed to normal household chemicals. If it were me I would try to remove the oil and apply 2-3 coats of Waterlox original varnish or Behlen's bar top varnish,lightly sanding with 320g between coats. Sorry to be so long winded.

Regards

Jerry


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