# 1000SE vs. 1000HD



## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Hi all,

I've seen all good reviews and feedback on the Incra 1000se.
Does anyone have any experience on the 1000HD ? 
The price jumps from about $160 to $190. Since never having a "real nice" miter gauge, not sure what I should be looking for to justify a price increase. I"m sure the SE would suit me fine, just want to have better support for workpieces at angles or just everyday operation. Flip stops are nice. Does anyone know if using a zero clearance sub-fence is possible with these models? Just thinking ahead about tear-out issues. Thanks in advance.
-Steve


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## Tom Hintz (Aug 31, 2009)

I would go with the HD version. It is very much like the SE but has a redesigned head that has individual notches for each full degree. that alone makes it easier to be accurate but also makes the "fine tuning" system easier to use. If you can't get something dead on with the HD version, you aren't trying!
I have reviews of both versions at the link below with photos, video and details on both if that info would help. (scroll down to Miter Gauges)

Woodworking Tool Reviews - NewWoodworker.com LLC


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## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Thanks Tom, again, a wealth of knowledge from you.


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## BearLeeAlive (Mar 22, 2010)

Steve, I just went through the same dilemma, and Tom is right, the biggest difference is the 1º detents. I would very rarely use other then 22 1/2º, 45º or 90º anyway, and if I did the SE has a very accurate vernier scale on it. I went for the SE which was $50 cheaper at the time. It works great.


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## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

That's kinda what I thought, and was hoping, for the sake of saving the extra $.$$ 
And I too would probably stay within the well worn road of 45/90/22.5 most of the time. As long as the gauge is accurate otherwise, why not save some dough? It's got a flip stop, extends to 30+ inches, and is made by a high standard company. I'm sure even their cheapest is miles above most.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Looks a lot like the 3000se which I've been very happy with.


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## scrollwolf (Sep 12, 2004)

Hi Steve,
I got the 1000SE about a year ago, on sale at Rockler. It was only $99 w/free shipping. I have been very happy with it.

Jack


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## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

$99....That's the deal I'd like to find. Until then, I'm just going to have to keep going through all my junk in the basement and nickel-and-dime them away on Craig's List to raise the funds.


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## jmg1017 (Apr 9, 2009)

Amazon has the 1000SE on sale for $104 with free shipping. Can't beat that deal.


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## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

jmg1017 said:


> Amazon has the 1000SE on sale for $104 with free shipping. Can't beat that deal.


Dude, you just saved me like $60+ !
Thanks Joe.

Now all I've have to do is save up is 5c aluminum cans instead of selling stuff on CL.


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## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Tom Hintz said:


> I would go with the HD version. It is very much like the SE but has a redesigned head that has individual notches for each full degree. that alone makes it easier to be accurate but also makes the "fine tuning" system easier to use. If you can't get something dead on with the HD version, you aren't trying!
> I have reviews of both versions at the link below with photos, video and details on both if that info would help. (scroll down to Miter Gauges)
> 
> Woodworking Tool Reviews - NewWoodworker.com LLC



Excellent review Tom. That just about answered every concievable question and more about the miter gauge in theory and in use. Top notch once again.
Thanks.


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## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

*Bought it!*

Amazon $105 free shipping. Took about 5 calander days to get here.
Package and contents arrived intact. I first noticed how much weight this thing has. Very solid. Setup took some time because the fence was not perpendicular to the table top. So I tried different shims and went to Lowe's and back until I found that using a 3x5 index card folded in half was the perfect shim height. Now it's dead on. Other than that the whole setup and operation was easy. I thought the vernier 1/10 degree thing was going to be nuts, but it's pretty simple. Will take some getting used to. The only thing I'm not sure about yet is if I want to keep it set so I can use the built in ruler as an accurate measurement from the blade. The problem is, to do that in operation it doesn't clear my blade guard. That would make it somewhat annoying to have to remove every time. And I like using the guard and splitter. Don't know yet. Storage is the other concern, I'm going to have to build a little table with shelves and drawers next to the saw to hold the gauge and the little accessories that came with it. I would hate for it to fall by accident. So in practice, I ran a piece through and it felt like it was rock solid, I even think it improved the cut quality having that much mass behind the workpiece. A well made piece of equipment.


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## BearLeeAlive (Mar 22, 2010)

Steve, I am not really seeing the reason for the shim. Mine was not near parallel to the table either, but loosening the screws that attaches it to the fence and adjusting took less then a minute to do. It is actually one of the first steps in the setup. I set up and have used the measured stop length a bunch now, it is dead on. I am still waiting for my Shark Guard to arrive, so I have no guard/vacuum over the blade to interfere with the end of the fence, but you can keep the end of the fence at least 3/4" away with the adjustments and still keeping the measurements accurate.


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## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Hi Jim,
The top of the fence in relation to the table top was tilted back about 1/16. This was also reported in another post or review somewhere. The instructions do say to adjust for this if necessary by shimming with a piece of paper. I guess what I wanted to do was something a little more solid like a very very thin brass washer, so I went to the hardware isle but to no avail. The paper worked fine. I know it probably doesn't matter that much except for certain operations having the fence exactly perpendicular, I just like knowing it's right on when you do need it. I can just imagine having to do shoulder cuts for a tenon and holding the workpiece tight to the fence and it's tilted back 2d is going to make an angled cut.

Yeah, that shark guard looks cool. I'd love to have the vac port from above. The Incra won't slide past my blade guard when it's down, but it's does slide past the splitter and pawls. The guard can't be seen in the photos beacause it's hinged up and out of the way. That's just the design of the table though, I'm still thinking about ways around it. Not a biggie.

Overall I am very impressed with the Incra and can't wait to put it to some good use. :sold:


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## BearLeeAlive (Mar 22, 2010)

Gotcha Steve, I was thinking tilt in a different direction, but looking back at the photos it is obvious as you had your shim the entire length. You had me curious and I went and checked mine just now. Sure enough, the top of the fence leans back, but only about 1/32" max. I am not going to sweat it at all, but if for some reason I do a cut where this could be a factor I may have to do something about it. They really should be able to get that angle bracket exactly 90º.


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## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Totally Jim, that kinda suprised me figuring the level of quality that Incra is known for. When I'm reading the directions and it's stating the adjustment for this calibration is to wedge paper, it made me start having second thoughts. As you could see though, the 4x6 index card (corrected from prior post) fits perfectly folded in two. Then I just carefully trimmed off with a utility knife. It's not like this is a constant adjustment that I will be going back to weekly, just kinda odd that there wasn't a better way to do that, or that they could have supplied thin washers or something. All in all, no regrets. See ya round, man.


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## jmg1017 (Apr 9, 2009)

Steve,

I think the recommendation is to shim between the vertical face of the miter gauge bracket and the auxiliary fence, not the top of the miter gauge and the horizontal miter gauge bracket as it appears in your photo.


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## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Hi Joe,
I just checked the manual and it says to shim where the bracket meets the protractor, not the bracket at the fence. I had thought of the fence at first too, but then the shim would move when the 2 screws are loosened to move the fence distance in relation to the blade. This way it's more permanent at a point where it's not neccessary to change operations. Set it and forget it, as Ron Popeil says.





jmg1017 said:


> Steve,
> 
> I think the recommendation is to shim between the vertical face of the miter gauge bracket and the auxiliary fence, not the top of the miter gauge and the horizontal miter gauge bracket as it appears in your photo.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Steve...

Great choice.... I had the same issue with mine, nothing a couple of playing cards couldn't take care of. Did mine, similar to how you did yours, and 3 yrs later...she's dead on...

I got the 2000 tough... weird as hell to look at, but man, what a great mitre...the fllip stop is a great improvement!!!!


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## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Cool Bill, that's good to know that I'm not loosing my mind with this thing. Because I kind of was yesterday. Long day besides. My allergies are killing me. This is my first Incra product and I took a leap of faith based on all their reputation and from listening to chatter from all you good folks. 

That 2000 does looks pretty cool. It must be a gem to use  I agree Bill, having that flip stop is a tremendous asset, one of the major reasons to have a miter like this. I love the multi function/setting capability.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

you can and will dump alot of money into incra's products, however, they are worth every penny IMHO...

one of the best investments in tools I've made is the 6" rule set..I find myself using it all of the time... for just about everything...


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## novice wood guy (Jun 30, 2010)

Bought mine, the SE, after getting so frustrated with the factory miter gauge that came with my delta. Looked at both, deciede for me it was worth saving the extra. By the way, if you get on rockler's e-mail list, they send a 20% off coupon (no sale items or power tools), but used the coupon to save a few more dollars. I would (and have recommended the Se to a few friends. worth the money.


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## novice wood guy (Jun 30, 2010)

Glad I read this post. i didn't check for 90 to the table, but I think I will try playjng cards trimmed in, so I don't have to see them. Kind of takes away from having a really great fence.

I agree, incra should provide shims to everyone who ownes their fence!

Thanks again for the heads up,
Mike


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Yeah, ya hate to spend that kinda money and then have to shim.. but take heart, even the LS systems come with shims...I kinda look at it this way, if all it takes is a playing card to get it true,, what the heck.. the package as a whole is well worth it, as I said earlier.. after 3 yrs of use, mine is still dead on to my table..and you can't see the joker.. *S*

I've come to keep a deck of playing cards in my shop..*L*


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## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Yeah, I just tweaked all my stuff this past weekend to make sure everything was square and true. I did spend some time on the incra to get it just where I wanted. I've been using it for a while and decied the t-track holder thing at the end needed to go and I fined tuned the runners that hold it in the mitre track so it's like butter. No drag or binding but still tight. All the other 90's that needed to be were still holding from initial setup a couple months ago. And still loving the flip stop every time. Very impressed overall!


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