# Rail Help



## bowtech (Dec 30, 2010)

Hi all new guy here so please forgive my ignorance. I believe I saw a jig plan out here to help with making the rails. I tried searching but cannot find one. Or just would like some words of advice how to make good rails without rounding out the stock. I have made a few in the past free hand, some turn out OK others well lets just say... WOOD PUTTY. 

Thanks appreciate any help you can give. Let me just say this is a GREAT forum have learned a lot from you so far.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Could you explain in more detail what you're looking for, or the problems you've had in the past, Shawn?


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## bowtech (Dec 30, 2010)

When I try cutting my rail ends (to match the inside edge of the stile) I have tried it using just the fence and free hand but it is difficult keeping the piece straight especially at the end of the cut and it will round out the cut.

Hopefully that makes sense. Like I stated I am new so my terminology may be a bit off.

Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

If you use a wide push block they will come out clean, the best way is to use wide stock then rip the stock to size after the pass..

Lets say, 1st. use the cutting with the bearing in the center of the bit,use 5" wide stock put the the cut in pace than switch bits and put the pattern cut on the edges than rip the stock( 2 7/16" or 2 1/2" wide the norm) and you have the two rails than run the pattern cut on on the edges of the stock for the other two parts for the door and rip it to the right size, now you have all 4 parts for the door.
Use the magic number of 4" to get the right size for the parts..

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/sommerfelds/Catalog/page27.pdf
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/sommerfelds/Catalog/page28.pdf
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/sommerfelds/Catalog/page29.pdf


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bowtech said:


> When I try cutting my rail ends (to match the inside edge of the stile) I have tried it using just the fence and free hand but it is difficult keeping the piece straight especially at the end of the cut and it will round out the cut.
> 
> Hopefully that makes sense. Like I stated I am new so my terminology may be a bit off.
> 
> Thanks


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## panzer (Dec 22, 2010)

This site may help. woodjamproducts.com I have their stile, rail and raised panel jig.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John


Let me see if I got this right you use a big panel bit in your D-handle router ?, you got more guts than I have I guess..you must be using a panel bit without a back cutter, yes ?...

I saw the jig ,how about a snapshot of your router setup..I used router bits in many ways but not like that..
All the panel bits I have seen, state use in a router table ONLY.. 
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panzer said:


> This site may help. woodjamproducts.com I have their stile, rail and raised panel jig.


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## panzer (Dec 22, 2010)

Hi Bob

Being new to woodworking you are probably asking the wrong person about the back cutter. I would say talk to John at woodjamproducts. My personal experience with him and his method was exceptional in every way. I would not say I have more guts than you, I would just say, I have just always been open minded to things out of the norm. With that being said, I feel very confident and safe using his product.


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## jdjerkay (Feb 8, 2011)

I have been studying how best to make good rail and stile frames for raised panel doors. Rockler makes a jig for forming rails that looks like it would be a good investment.


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

If I understand your question what you need is a sled to clamp your pieces in which would keep them square to the fence....photos to follow soon.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

You don't need a sled, just a good push block, use wide stock (like 5 1/2" wide) and than rip it to size after you push it by the bit..then you will end up with two parts to the door frame , but b/4 you rip the stock down switch the bit out and put on the pattern (bead) pass on the stock,use the magic number of 4 to get the right size for the stiles.

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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

A sled works *much* better than just a push block, I know from experience! Having the wood clamped in a sled keeps everything lined up just right.

I don't have my rail/stile bit in the router but I think you get the idea......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Michael

The trick is to use two matched bits and not change the height of the router bit, (using matched sets) that's real hard with a sled, if you use the push block way your (bits) and joints will always dead on with no sanding to get them flat and true once you glue them up..

Many of the R & P bits have short shanks and that can be real PITA with the sled way..

" I know from my experience "

see PDF file below


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walowan said:


> A sled works *much* better than just a push block, I know from experience! Having the wood clamped in a sled keeps everything lined up just right.
> 
> I don't have my rail/stile bit in the router but I think you get the idea......


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Michael
> 
> The trick is to use two matched bits and not change the height of the router bit, (using matched sets) that's real hard with a sled, if you use the push block way your (bits) and joints will always dead on with no sanding to get them flat and true once you glue them up..
> 
> ...





Not every one can afford or desire to spend the money for those bits, mine are the reversable ones I got waa..aay back when I first started wood working. I have to set bit height whenever I change bit configuration. Thats why a sled works for me. These bits are a pita to use but I don't use them enough to upgrade. I make real mortise and tenon doors these days.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

" I make real mortise and tenon doors these days. "

Man do I have a real tip for you.
YouTube - JessEm Zip Slot Mortise Mill

3pc 15° Straight Raised Panel, Bevel R&S Router Bit Set - eBay (item 130482423319 end time Feb-09-11 19:02:17 PST)

Super Carbide Tools items - Get great deals on items on eBay Stores!

Just a note about the sleds, the real down fall with most sleds they bow up in the center when you clamp the stock in place, the bigger the hold downs the bigger the bow up or bow down ..  than the stock can't run by the bit true.. a little bit of sand paper under the lumber will fix that error the norm to give you the holding power you want without over clamping the stock in place. 

Little tip , don't let the sand paper hang in from of the path of the router bit, cut it off short or you will wipe out a good router bit...  sand paper is sand paper  don't ask me how I know that.. 
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walowan said:


> Not every one can afford or desire to spend the money for those bits, mine are the reversable ones I got waa..aay back when I first started wood working. I have to set bit height whenever I change bit configuration. Thats why a sled works for me. These bits are a pita to use but I don't use them enough to upgrade. I make real mortise and tenon doors these days.


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