# Router Plate Slop?



## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

I recieved my Rockler Router plate as well as the Rockler router plate template and the Rockler recomended pattern bit. Keep in mind I am a router rookie. From all the posts I've read here on the forum it seems quite important that the plate be a perfectly tight fit in it's opening. Upon placing the plate into the pattern it seemed to have lots of slop. When pushing the plate into one corner of the pattern I would say a good 1/16" open air on each of the two remaining sides. I made a test cut on a scrap piece and that is the way it still came out. What I got, was the way it showed at first. I don't think this would be an acceptable tolerance from all I have read. My question is; Can I do anything to get it right using that same pattern? The radius is perfect. Thanks for any advice...Mike


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

You can try running some masking tape around the perimeter of the pattern.

On my first table the plate was a little loose, ended up screwing it down for production runs, otherwise unless the bit did not have a bearing I pretty much just pushed the plate tight in the feed direction and had at it.


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## billg71 (Mar 25, 2011)

I'd just send the whole mess back. A few thou of slop is one thing, a 16th is another, it'd take you a bunch of wraps of blue tape to snug things up.

Vendors like Rockler and Woodcraft will sell you crap as long as you'll pay for it and not return it. Don't encourage them.

Bill


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Bill also offers up another way to make a plate template after you send the whole mess back. But you'll still need a plate to do it so you might want to send back only the template.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/34358-rousseau-installation-kit.html


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

It's not going to be friction fit. I have a minor gap all the way around my plate and it hasn't affected anything.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Mike, I know exactly what you mean, my set is the same way. I wasn't concerned because I bought the plate and template on clearance for a total of about $28. An easy solution is to glue a piece of veneer or edge banding on one end of your opening and this will shim it to a nice fit. Apply the glue and veneer then insert your plate to hold it in position and trim it flush with a single edge razor blade.


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

I am a municipal judge and we have what is called a ListServ. Basically, it is a forum just like this, but only other judges belong or subscribe to. When we run into an unknown issue or problem or just would like to know how someone else would handle a particular issue we can discuss it among ourselves. One might get totally different answers and views and opinions on the very same issues. You can pick and choose what might work for you, or ignore them all. I love that, and I love this forum for the same attributes. I like to get different opinions. That works for me. You can pick and choose from a variety of helpful solutions with maybe several or none being the absolute answer. Thank you very much for this forum, thank you very much for the suggestions...JudgeMike


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I need to say 1/16" gap is not a big deal.you are always moving the stock over the plate the same way most of the time..if it gets to you just drill a 1/8" hole in the corners and drive in a 1/8" dowel pin and lock it in one place..

==


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

JudgeMike said:


> One might get totally different answers and views and opinions on the very same issues. You can pick and choose what might work for you, or ignore them all. I love that, and I love this forum for the same attributes. I like to get different opinions. That works for me. You can pick and choose from a variety of helpful solutions with maybe several or none being the absolute answer. Thank you very much for this forum, thank you very much for the suggestions...JudgeMike


Yer right, ask ten folks how to do something you'll get 10 variations of solution.

The primary "law" we all try to adhere to around here is be safe.
The second rule of order should be do what works for you and have fun doing it.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

JudgeMike said:


> I recieved my Rockler Router plate as well as the Rockler router plate template and the Rockler recomended pattern bit. Keep in mind I am a router rookie. From all the posts I've read here on the forum it seems quite important that the plate be a perfectly tight fit in it's opening. Upon placing the plate into the pattern it seemed to have lots of slop. When pushing the plate into one corner of the pattern I would say a good 1/16" open air on each of the two remaining sides. I made a test cut on a scrap piece and that is the way it still came out. What I got, was the way it showed at first. I don't think this would be an acceptable tolerance from all I have read. My question is; Can I do anything to get it right using that same pattern? The radius is perfect. Thanks for any advice...Mike


To me, 1/16th would not be an issue. You do not say what you are using for the top? Depending on the season, you will get slight movement in the top anyway.


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## adjustablebeds (Apr 19, 2012)

It also depends on the size and depth and direction of cut. If you are not over doing it then the clearance should not matter as you will be hard up against one edge


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

I like this suggestion...


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

I must say I think this would work too. It would certainly take the wiggle out of the work. Thanks for the good ideas guys. Now for the big decision. Shim it, pin it, or forget it. Doubt that I could ignore it but thats the way I am. Will probably try to shim it first. Thanks everyone for the ideas/suggestions.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

If you are going to use a shims use some laminate veneer,cut it in 1/4" wide strips and just slip it in place ,,I have one that that I need to do that with on two sides of the plate.  locks it right place and I can still pull the router out easy if I need to.

But I will say most of the time the fence is over the plate and will hold it in place and the router dust will just fall into the crack and lock the plate in place the norm.


===



JudgeMike said:


> I must say I think this would work too. It would certainly take the wiggle out of the work. Thanks for the good ideas guys. Now for the big decision. Shim it, pin it, or forget it. Doubt that I could ignore it but thats the way I am. Will probably try to shim it first. Thanks everyone for the ideas/suggestions.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

I have a Woodpeckers Table, Insert and fence. There is a good 1/16ths gap on all 4 sides of the insert with an adjustable spring loaded button to hold the insert in place so I can't see that the gap around any insert would pose a problem. Like has been suggested you can always wedge something in the gap to reduce the amount of movement once you get it leveled. Returning it would be my last option because 99% of the time you will end up with the same situation. 

Like BJ said, the fence would hold the insert in place most of the time, that and the weight of the router negates almost any possibility the insert will jump out of the recess if that is part of your concern.


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

Mike said:


> Mike, I know exactly what you mean, my set is the same way. I wasn't concerned because I bought the plate and template on clearance for a total of about $28. An easy solution is to glue a piece of veneer or edge banding on one end of your opening and this will shim it to a nice fit. Apply the glue and veneer then insert your plate to hold it in position and trim it flush with a single edge razor blade.


Mike,

I could only find veneer with a self adhesive at our local Menards. Directions said to use an iron to heat it and stick it on. What I did was put the template in a vice and use the larger end closest to the handle (not the tip) of a soldering iron to roll across it carefully to melt the glue while holding it to the template. This was done on two sides of the template. I then used a small roller to go over it making sure to get it smooth. Seemed to work well. I tried my wifes hair curling iron first which did not get hot enough. The soldering iron wanted to burn the veneer so did not keep it in one spot long. I put the router plate back into the template and it fit just right I believe. Trimmed it up with a single edged razor as you suggested then sanded it smooth. That was last night. Hoping the glue holds. This morning will tell. Thanks for the idea...JudgeMike


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## TheOakDude (Oct 11, 2011)

Try sacking off the pattern and making your own guides from MDF. Worked perfectly for me. After all its a really easy shape. Will also be good practice.


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

*Recycled router table*



JudgeMike said:


> I recieved my Rockler Router plate as well as the Rockler router plate template and the Rockler recomended pattern bit. Keep in mind I am a router rookie. From all the posts I've read here on the forum it seems quite important that the plate be a perfectly tight fit in it's opening. Upon placing the plate into the pattern it seemed to have lots of slop. When pushing the plate into one corner of the pattern I would say a good 1/16" open air on each of the two remaining sides. I made a test cut on a scrap piece and that is the way it still came out. What I got, was the way it showed at first. I don't think this would be an acceptable tolerance from all I have read. My question is; Can I do anything to get it right using that same pattern? The radius is perfect. Thanks for any advice...Mike


I finally got my plate mounted in a table. I found this old TV stand on the side of the road waiting for the garbage man. Thought it would make a good thing to practice on. I might keep it, but it takes up a lot of real estate in the shop. If I do, I need to build some doors and drawers for it. That will also be a new experience for me. More questions for you. . I fixed my loose router plate template as Mike suggested by gluing a veneer strip to two sides of the temple. That snugged it up fairly well but still a bit loose. However, as Jigs, (Bobj3) suggested, the plate locked itself right up with sawdust. So at least now I am playing around with the router table. Working on a drill press table and a table saw sled. Having fun! Thanks everyone for the advice given. One thing I am learning quickly. Practice on a scrap piece first!


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

*Hmmm..."sacking off the pattern"*



TheOakDude said:


> Try sacking off the pattern and making your own guides from MDF. Worked perfectly for me. After all its a really easy shape. Will also be good practice.


Very curious as to what "sacking off the pattern" means. Terminology I'm not familiar with. I am sure I will have as much or more interest in trying to make jigs and fixtures as I will in building things though.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Sacking as in getting rid of.


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## TheOakDude (Oct 11, 2011)

Sorry Judge Mike,
English slang term......I didnt get any template with my plate so had to make my own guide.


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