# 1-1/4" deep slot for breadboard end



## mk740 (Oct 19, 2013)

Hi Guys,

I need some help with ideas for cutting a 1-1/4" deep slot, approx 1/4 wide on my breadboard end. I looked at slot cutters but they don't cut deep enough and straight bits that deep are 3/8" wide which I could use if I there is no choice. Any ideas on how I can accomplish this task? Thanks in advance for any input.
Milan


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Hello Milan
Welcome to the forum. 
May I ask why you need such a deep groove?


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## mk740 (Oct 19, 2013)

Semipro said:


> Hello Milan
> Welcome to the forum.
> May I ask why you need such a deep groove?


My tabletop is 42" Long x 26" wide and my breadboard ends are 2" Long x 26" wide. This is my first attempt at doing breadboards so I thought a 1-1/4" tenon would be appropriate to fit into the breadboard ends. I don't know what the standard is or if there is one so please enlighten me if these tenons are too long and I don't need such a deep slot. Thanks.


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## mk740 (Oct 19, 2013)

Thanks John. Appreciate your quick reply. Happy Holidays.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

A slot cutter might still not be deep enough for what you want. You'll need a jig to hold your pieces up vertical in 2 planes if you were to make the groove on a table saw or router table. 

This would be a perfect job for a horizontally mounted router. I think there are a few examples in the archives and I know that BJ (Bobj3) has a picture of his setup in his uploads. If you think this might be something you'll do from time-to-time it might be worth building the frame for it. They are also very handy for making picture frames.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

you can use the items below on the router table
Big Slot cutter...1" deep no big deal..

4" Carbide Tip Plate Joiner Blade

Grizzly.com

You can also use the item below without the bearing in place.

http://sommerfeldtools.com/professi.../router-bits/1-2-inch-shank-glass-slot-cutter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pc-1-4-SH...122644352?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item20db90a980

Just a note 3/8" wide is just fine
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pc-1-4-SH...053296368?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item1e83629af0
==


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This sounds like a job for biscuits.


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

use A 1/4" Freud table saw blade or 4 trained termites

good luck baker


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## Keith Hodges (Apr 30, 2013)

I use 1/4 straight bit on my CNC. I get them at Lowes, and made by Vermont American, and their 2 inches long. Should be long enough.


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

http://www.stephanwoodworking.com/JournalTabletopBreadboard.pdf

Don't know the extent of your tool collection but in viewing the above PDF you can substitute the mortising machine for the deep tenons with a drill press or a hand drill with guide (a self centering dowel guide or similar would work nicely) and a decent 1/4" drill bit then clean up the mortise with a sharp chisel (if you don't have a 1/4" chisel you can round the large tenon to fit the radius of the drill hole)

The shallow mortise can be made on the table saw or slot cutter/straight bit in the router.
If using the table saw, use a flip cut and the mortise will be centered. Say the saw kerf is 1/8", set the fence so the blade is roughly in the center of the stock, make your cut, flip the stock so that the other face of the stock references the fence, make a cut and test the fit. Tweak the fence a tiny bit closer to the blade if too tight, do the flip cut, test fit. Just remember that each time you move the fence closer to the blade that you are taking twice that amount out of the stock. Similar can be done using a slot cutter with a width less than the desired width of slot.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Bread boarding a table
http://m.youtube.com/watch?autoplay...uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3D8oyHjZj_ScY%26autoplay%3D1


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

They would be most of the time but most people pickup the table and move it around so to say the ends must be built strong ....a 4" to 6" wide end is a big lever..


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harrysin said:


> This sounds like a job for biscuits.


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## mk740 (Oct 19, 2013)

Thanks for all the tips guys. I like the 4 trained termite idea! Just recently purchased the INCRA LS system so will use that to rout a groove using my straight bit.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> They would be most of the time but most people pickup the table and move it around so to say the ends must be built strong ....a 4" to 6" wide end is a big lever..
> 
> ...


In that case Bob how about a stopped spline, a piece of cake on the router table using a slot cutter to it's full depth. This shot of an open spline is for those members not familiar with this method, plywood is normally used and a stopped spline is as it'e name implies, the slot is stopped before the ends.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

The set below is a Very big set ,,,1 1/4' DEEP..

CMT 800.627.11 Tenon Cutting Router Bit in Hardwood Case, 1/2-Inch Shank, 3-Inch Diameter, Carbide-Tipped - Amazon.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhxK0ty70nM
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harrysin said:


> In that case Bob how about a stopped spline, a piece of cake on the router table using a slot cutter to it's full depth. This shot of an open spline is for those members not familiar with this method, plywood is normally used and a stopped spline is as it'e name implies, the slot is stopped before the ends.


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## Dr Neon (Apr 15, 2010)

Hi Milam,
I don't know if the top is all one piece. That would make it difficult to move the wood through any cutter. Large biscuits is probably going to be the easiest way. Use a bunch of them, and it all should clamp up nice and tight, and strong. You will get nice ends using that method, too. 
Tim


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## mk740 (Oct 19, 2013)

DrNeon said:


> Hi Milam,
> I don't know if the top is all one piece. That would make it difficult to move the wood through any cutter. Large biscuits is probably going to be the easiest way. Use a bunch of them, and it all should clamp up nice and tight, and strong. You will get nice ends using that method, too.
> Tim


Hi Tim,

I was able to move the top on the table saw as it was small and light enough and routed a 3/4" deep groove as John suggested. Thanks for your tip.
Milan


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## WayneMahler (May 17, 2012)

I would setup my dado blade for a cut like this. Set the blade height and adjust your fence. Make the cut in 2 passes for better results. Also remember when you pin the breadboards to oval out the two end holes to slots to allow for the wood to expand and contract with seasonal movements. The ovals would be in the tenon itself and hidden with the pins through the joint. I have done this on my projects and never had any problems with it. Hope this helps as just a different option to look at or into.
Best of Luck
Wayne


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