# Making a Router Sled



## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

Hi all, I imagine this topic has been discussed quite a bit as I've looked through various posts on this subject. Just trying to get my brain around what I want to do.

I want to dress timber mainly used for small box making. I can rip the timber firstly on my triton workcentre but as most realise the result is fair but not brilliant. It has helped since I mounted a stabilising bracket to my triton. The timber is then around 12 or 13mm thickness, and maybe 60 or 70 or 80mm wide. 

I would like a thicknesser but I dont want to buy one. I don't really want to outlay the money for one, plus it would just take up more room in my very limited shed, and lastly I know the noise they make and I dont want my neighbours complaining. I guess I could also add that I would never need to dress timber up to 13 inches wide and around 6 inches thick.

Yesterday I made up a router sled which basically slides over the top of a piece of timber on my bench. I am using a 1hp Ryobi router but it only takes either a 8mm bit or a 1/4" bit. My two issues are that I cant find a planing bit that fits this size collet. And secondly I need to be able to secure/clamp the piece of timber to my bench, (as the sled slides over the top of it). 

The idea worked pretty good actually just using a 19mm straight bit, which is the largest bit I have for this 1/4" router. I just need to get around these couple of issues,..

Any comments or suggestions,

Regards, Paul


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Paul, there are many posts here on router ski jigs. Go to the member video tab near the top left of your screen and you will see the easy way to contain your material on your bench. There is also a link to the discussion thread if you have any further questions.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Double sided tape will hold your work down if the bottom side is fairly smooth, but be sure to position the tape so your work is raised evenly by the thickness of the tape. You can then raise the router to equal this increased work height. To keep it from moving sideways, some scrap that is thinner than your work can be placed around your work and screwed down, but you may not need this if the tape holds well enough.

Charley


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Paul, I am not aware of a router bit specifically designed for thickness planing. My understading is that you would use the widest straight bit you could get your hands on.

I'm not 100% sure, but I THINK I have seen 1" straight bits for 1/4" shanks.

I think Harry (harrysin) sometimes secures the piece to a "sacrificial worktop" with screws. Or if you have some extra wood on the edges of what you are planing, you can cut it at 30 or 45 degrees and hold it down with another piece with a complementaty angle (if you know what i mean).


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

" router bit specifically designed for thickness planing"

Planing Sled : Router : Woodhaven

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Chris Curl said:


> Paul, I am not aware of a router bit specifically designed for thickness planing. My understading is that you would use the widest straight bit you could get your hands on.
> 
> I'm not 100% sure, but I THINK I have seen 1" straight bits for 1/4" shanks.
> 
> I think Harry (harrysin) sometimes secures the piece to a "sacrificial worktop" with screws. Or if you have some extra wood on the edges of what you are planing, you can cut it at 30 or 45 degrees and hold it down with another piece with a complementaty angle (if you know what i mean).


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

bob, anything for 1/4" or 8mm shanks?


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I do a lot of rather intricate work with my router, and jigs. But for thicknessing wood, I love my Delta planer, that I was given by a friend, just for the cost of shipping. But if you don't care to buy one, then I'd make a thickness sander. Just do a search, using 'homemade thickness sander', and you'll come up with a bunch of hits/plans.  That's the way I would do it anyway.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

3/4" is about the max on 1/4" shank

MLCS Straight Router Bits

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Chris Curl said:


> bob, anything for 1/4" or 8mm shanks?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Paul, the sled will work fine, you can screw blocks at either end of your board as most of the forces you will put on your work will be lengthways. You have 2 other issues, and that is that your router is only 1hp and the shank sizes. I checked Lee Valley tools and in 1/4" shank the largest diameter bits are 1". I don't know how large you can go in 8mm, they are not common here- yet. At 1" I would be careful how much bite and what feed rate to prevent snapping the shank. Too big and too fast a feed rate will strain your router also.


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## WayneMahler (May 17, 2012)

Have you considered a mortising bit? They come in 1/4 inch shanks and if you control the feed rate and depth you should be okay. You will have to make a sled for it and may need to add something to accommodate wider boards. I use a thickness planer but have read posts around the web where people have used this method. Best of Luck.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Straight Plunge Bits – 8mm shank - Lee Valley Tools

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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

Thanks Gentlemen for all your input and comments. Just today I ordered a 1/4" mortise & planer bit, from Carbatec (Brisbane Australia). It has a 31.7mm diameter cutting surface. $30. I've noticed a couple of posts here and there, plus your post recommending this bit. 

Next step of course to pick up some timber and set about. After looking at numerous sleds this one appeals to me.

How to Plane a Board with a Router.mov - YouTube

It takes a bit over 2 mins to watch this.

The small 1hp ryobi plunge router I have is a 6 speed one. Your saying don't use full speed on this,..?

I also have a Triton TRB001, a brilliant router, but it is dedicated to my table that I built for it several weeks ago, I don't want to disturb it, love that table and router. The small Ryobi one actually belongs to my son, who doesn't have a shed at present, I'm kinda looking after it.

Regards, Paul


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You should be able to go at full speed. Watch your feed rate and depth of cut. If the router rpm drops too much or you are having to push too hard then reduce your feed rate and or depth of cut. If you listen to your ears and hands, they will tell you what to do.
I leveled a bench top once using a very large sled and a 3 1/4hp router with a 38mm bit and I only took off about 1.5 to 2mm per pass.


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> 3/4" is about the max on 1/4" shank
> 
> MLCS Straight Router Bits
> 
> ==


MLCS Dish Cutters, V-Groove, Sign Lettering, Router Letter Template Set, Sign Carving

Bowl bit may work well too. 3/4" diameter is maximum size there also, but the bit cut across the whole face, and may be smoother.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> " router bit specifically designed for thickness planing"
> 
> Planing Sled : Router : Woodhaven
> 
> ==


Good reference Bob.

I have both of the Woodhaven cutters and arbor I ordered with my Woodhaven Planer, but here recently I have been using a 2-1/4 inch Drawer Lock Bit. It works just as well and removes almost twice the area as the Woodhaven bit. I don't know if all Drawer Lock bits have a short shank but my bit shank is only 1-1/2 inches long so I have to use my MLCS extension when planing.


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