# For HarrySin



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Here are some snapshots I thought you would get a kick out of  

Or anyone that wants to make a jig for the Tom's/Harry Template way of using the Plunge Router... 


NOTE*** I'm still waiting for the Acme Threaded rod to use in the jig..about a week or so b/4 I get them, But the 3/8-24 NF all thread will work just fine.

=======
Tom ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/guide-bushings-templates/1741-introduction-use-template-guides.html

Harry ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/guide-bushings-templates/4272-new-project-hot-off-router.html

Offset rings ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/49128-post1.html


NOTE***** If you find the 3/8" slot a bit to tight for the 3/8" threaded rod chuck up a 3/8" router bit in your battery drill and rem the slot out just a bit so the rods just sides in easy....it only takes 3 or 4 times up and down the slot to get it done...then put a slot in a 3/8" dowel rod ( 4" long rod ,band saw a slot in one end to hold the sand paper in place) and rap it with a bit of sand paper (100 grit) to clean it up..,,,,.spin it with your drill....

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/5232-40mm-guides-templates-more.html


Bj 


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Ha ha .... going to make Harry happy. So I take it that the Acme stuff you got isn't all thread, just threaded on the end? So you think that will work ok then in place of the acme and did you get it locally at a hardware store?

Corey


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## Doyle (Mar 20, 2007)

Hi BJ, Doyle here.
I have been following with great interest - the Jig and Acme Threaded Rods with the adaptation of wing-nuts on acme nuts.
Thanks for the photos and all the information I have been gleaning from your posts. 
I do have an unrelated question; I need to purchase some good quality Forstner Bit, where should I buy them?
Keep posting and I'll keep reading and learning.
Thanks again, Doyle


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Well, if you need a set and need them now... MLCS has some good ones. If you want a great set.... go Freud... their carbide forsteners are awesome and I used them to do clock fit ups with. They last for a long long time. I am still using a 1 3/8 one that i bought for fit ups and now I use it on the lathe as well. They are expensive but worth it! If you don't need a big set and just a couple I would look at freud. I also use a 3/8 Freud that I have had for a long time to do screw holes and plugs. 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

I still want to use the Acme All thread rod but I thought I would try and make Harry happy this weekend    I should be Sunday or Monday when he reads this..

I got the 3/8-24 NF all thread from A & I Bolt in Denver,,same place that's making the Acme all thread, They dropped it off today,,, I did try and damage the threads but it was OK because it was fine thread and I didn't crank it down all the way....(the 2 wing screws on the router base) 

I should NOTE****the 3/8-24 x 3ft. all thread I got was full of plating so I did need to run the die down it so the nut would go on one of the rods ( see snapshot) but that's the norm for plated all thread, so to say if you are going to get some from HD/ACE/Lowes take a nut with you and check it b/4 you buy it, can save you a hour or so running die down it...
I did chuck up the rod in a drill and clamped the die handle in the vise and got the job done quick....then cut it to size after...


Bj 





challagan said:


> Ha ha .... going to make Harry happy. So I take it that the Acme stuff you got isn't all thread, just threaded on the end? So you think that will work ok then in place of the acme and did you get it locally at a hardware store?
> 
> Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Doyle

Thanks
"Forstner Bits" = you can get them from eBay,Grizzly,MLCS, etc. BUT like most cutting tools you get what you pay for....I buy 2 sets at a time from eBay because I know I will cook them,,,  they are cheap about 12.oo set 1/4" to 2 1/4" and I also have the big set from 2 1/2" to 4" they are a bit better or to say I don't use them all the time like the small set...

Once you heat the bit up that's it ,,,,tent stake,,,,,and I do it all the time...I use alot of MDF and it's hell Forstner Bits..... 

Bj 





Doyle said:


> Hi BJ, Doyle here.
> I have been following with great interest - the Jig and Acme Threaded Rods with the adaptation of wing-nuts on acme nuts.
> Thanks for the photos and all the information I have been gleaning from your posts.
> I do have an unrelated question; I need to purchase some good quality Forstner Bit, where should I buy them?
> ...


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Bj,

Great job and I really appreciate your sharing this with us. I have a lot of interest in this method of routing and want to give it a shot after I finish absorbing my learning curve in the various areas I am already involved in. I have bookmarked this thread for future study and look forward to making the jig you have pictured when the time comes.

Thanks for establishing a jig we can all make and use on our side of the planet. Now... if I can just get the metric system figured out


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

Thanks,,,,,and you'er welcome, enjoy,,,,I think I got it figured out ( metric system ) just take your shoes off and use your ten toes and ten fingers and don't count the gaps between them....  something like they have been doing down south ( in GA.) for a long time    but just didn't know they had it down along time ago.. 




Bj 

===============



Bob N said:


> Bj,
> 
> Great job and I really appreciate your sharing this with us. I have a lot of interest in this method of routing and want to give it a shot after I finish absorbing my learning curve in the various areas I am already involved in. I have bookmarked this thread for future study and look forward to making the jig you have pictured when the time comes.
> 
> Thanks for establishing a jig we can all make and use on our side of the planet. Now... if I can just get the metric system figured out


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> Thanks,,,,,and you'er welcome, enjoy,,,,I think I got it figured out ( metric system ) just take your shoes off and use your ten toes and ten fingers and don't count the gaps between them....  something like they have been doing down south ( in GA.) for a long time    but just didn't know they had it down along time ago..
> 
> ...


Ha hhaaaa ... good one Bob.  I expect he's a grumblin now..... Damn Yankees!! he he he

Corey


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

BJ, a super job. I know Harry will be surprised and I think Tom would sh.. er, um, defecate a canary.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Mike said:


> BJ, a super job. I know Harry will be surprised and I think Tom would sh.. er, um, defecate a canary.


LOL......  

Corey


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## Doyle (Mar 20, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Doyle
> 
> Thanks
> "Forstner Bits" = you can get them from eBay,Grizzly,MLCS, etc. BUT like most cutting tools you get what you pay for....I buy 2 sets at a time from eBay because I know I will cook them,,,  they are cheap about 12.oo set 1/4" to 2 1/4" and I also have the big set from 2 1/2" to 4" they are a bit better or to say I don't use them all the time like the small set...
> ...


Thanks BJ, Doyle here.
I will check out eBay and give them a go. I spent some time checking out your Gallery - NICE work BJ. The machinist sure comes out. Thanks again, take care Doyle


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Mike


Tom,,,,hahahahahahahaha LOL LOL I would like to see that, but on the other hand I think I will pass but a brick would be nice LOL LOL in that way I could just hear what's going on... hahahahahahahaha 

Bj 


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Mike said:


> BJ, a super job. I know Harry will be surprised and I think Tom would sh.. er, um, defecate a canary.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Doyle

Thanks ,,, I know you know this but if you get them off eBay besure to check out the shipping charge b/4 you place a bid, many jack up the shipping to offset the low price...  but you can and I have found them at the low price without the high shipping on top of it...  





Bj 





Bj 




Doyle said:


> Thanks BJ, Doyle here.
> I will check out eBay and give them a go. I spent some time checking out your Gallery - NICE work BJ. The machinist sure comes out. Thanks again, take care Doyle


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just some other snapshots that would not fit in the 1st. post.


---------------

Now lets put the jig to work 

I didn't take to many snapshots of this because I know we are all fed up with all the pictures...


I didn't want to clamp or screw it to my work bench, so I made a insert block for the router table, the same size hole I have in it for the router base plate to fit in.
It must be dead on because the base part of the jig can't move around,,, I put 4 screws in from bottom side of the block insert into the frame part of the jig , that is 11" sq. on my router table...
Then it just drops in and it's locked in place and I have a flat table to run the skis on...so I said lets give this baby a test run,,, and put in some 1/2" slots in some MDF using the base part for the guide to keep it true,,see picture below.

The skis side on the sides of the base part for the 1st slot, then I moved the router over to the other side of the board ,by just undoing the wing nuts on the router base ,then justed moved it over and then tighten them down when I had in the right place for the 2nd slot...then made one more slot...and then I said OK lets check how true they came out and I will be damed right on the button...  and it didn't take any time at all and it was safe...plunge and slot and with the vac.pickup on the base of the router ,no mess to clean up.

So I said OK, lets run one more test so I pulled the jig out of the router table and fliped it around (the long way) and reworked the skis so it would now run on the smaller side of the jig, ,,, did the same test with the slots and again it was dead on the button....just like b/4....


Just one user review on this jig ,,,, 4.5 stars out of 5 stars 

Just one more NOTE****

Total hardware cost to make this jig for me was $3.26 for the 3/8-24 threaded rod setup, not taking the cost of the scrap MDF/hardwood I had in the shop.

The Acme hardware is $48.30 for it, but I realy want to use it...hard headed I know..  but the Acme will not bend....or give....and I only have one wing screw on each side of the router base to hold the rods in place...I do have a place for one more wing screw that I could drill and tap and I may just do that down the road...but for now it should be fine.... 

Almost no damage to the fine threaded rod when the wing nut was cranked down....  and like Harry said it was not a big deal because it's in the center of the rod so to speak..... 






Bj 








Bj


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj. where do I start, to say that I was surprised would be a huge understatement, you now qualify to join what is still an elitist group of routologists, but knowing the big following that you have Bob, I think that YOU are going to lead the revolution where Tom appears to have failed. I'm sure that once you have had time to evaluate the use of skis and cams, you will not only realise that there really is another way to use the router, but will actively promote it. You're 40 and 50mm guides did not go unnoticed! The shots where the end cheeks were against the jig puzzled me as the router could only go in a straight line, were you routing a slot? As always Bob you made a superb job but there is no way that I could finish without finding at least one thing to complain about, I'm not keen on the colour of the end cheeks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Do keep up the good work Bob and if Tom returns to the forum please try to give him encouragement, we ALL still have a great deal to learn about routing.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Thanks,,,  

The color gray is just a primer job because the of MDF, they may end up with a brown coat not sure yet ...

Once I got the jig done and took a good look at it the bells started to go off in my head, what a great jig this is,,, it would be nice to have to put in the slots in the end parts because it's not safe to drop and slot in short/small parts, it can be just a bit nasty if one gets away but with this jig it would be easy to put in slots just about anysize plus it would be safe .. we all like to make jigs with slots but putting in the slots can be a hard job sometimes but with this cam lock parts on the jig and the plunge router one can now do it safe....


Many more bells and lights when off but I will hold them back for just a bit and a test run or two b/4 I kick them out...like a 1/4" siding dovetail in small parts for boxes.. 

The Cam Lock Parts in the jig, is the key to this jig, once they are in place the hard work is over  so to speak  and the best part of this jig it's a safe way to use the router   

I know you said Tom would/did show a BLIND people how to use the router and I always said ya right ,now I see how a blind person could use the plunge router with this jig ,it's that safe  and easy to use..


It's takes sometime for me to crab a idea but once I do it runs rampid in my head..


Bj


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj,BOB, it is a big man who can admit that he was wrong, I'm sure that everyone who has been following our threads, you, Tom and myself will have the greatest respect for you and will be looking forward with anticipation to see what projects and advice you are going to come up with from now on. I have always talked of myself as a disciple of Template Tom and the way things are developing, I think that YOU may well become one too! Have a great weekend.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Harry

You have a good weekend too

Now go to bed, it's late 

Bj


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'm sure you realise Bob that my remark about the colour was a joke because I just couldn't find any faults, but had to complain about something!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

BUMP



Bj


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob, I've been studying the shots that you added to you're post. By you're own admission you tend to be slow at attempting new methods of doing things, but boy O' boy, once you do there is no stopping you! You have achieved in a couple of days what probably took me a couple of weeks with an instructor!
The best thing that could happen to this forum, and make it a true ROUTER forum, would be for you and Template Tom to settle you're differences, shake hands and join forces to produce regular Routing projects.
So that members won't be put off making skis may I remind them that as YOU have already found, standard threaded rod is perfectly suitable, the cost of Acme threaded rod would be an unnecessary luxury.
Later in the day I shall take a few shots of things like a more versatile cam jig and the benefits of using a sacrificial top on the bench. 'Till then have a good sleep!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

My hand is out for Tom  , once he comes back will try and do just that,,, 

I can now see how this jig can be worth the time to make and use...it can be used for more than one router project and that's what got me going....

You know I like jigs and what they can do for the router user, I hope others will give it a shot,they are easy to make and are cheap to make and that's the real key with jigs make them simple and they will get used..

Now That I have one made and it's in the router table and it's going to be there for a long time because I like the way it works ,plus if I need to use the router table I can just drop the other router back in a heart beat....

In the snapshot you will see the 1/2" slots 3/4" deep I put in a test board,,, try that will a router table or a plunge router with a fence....that one test would put gray hair on your head without this type of jig...and I have tried it b/4 on the router table 
not to say what other jobs it can do...I am sold on this jig as you can tell... 
I wish I had this jig to make the skis for this jig and you will too if you make the jig  , putting in slots can be a nasty on the router table so to say when you make the skis, use a bigger blank and then cut it down to size after you have the slots in,,,,then say that's the last time I will need to do that nasty job,,, the hard way...like I said b/4 will all like to make jigs with slots in them but many just don't put them in because it is hard to do on the table...and to get them true and clean but with this jig you can do it all day long and they will come out right on the button.....
Dropping a board on a bit is always nasty and it takes more than one pass the norm but the jig Tom came up will make it safe...

Just a side note****about 3 weeks ago I broke a 3/8" carb.bit doing just that, drop and slot,, I had to change my pants after I got the machine powered down and I have used the router for many years....it only took 1 sec. to snap that 25.oo dollar bit off and 2 hours for me to go back and replace the bit and get the job done....so to say the jig will pay for it self in time...


I'm going to push it on the forum and hope others don't get ticked off, but it's true,, it's a safe way to use the router... 

I'm off the box for now but hang on I'm going to push this jig...
I want you all to keep your fingers and body parts  that's why I'm pushing...




Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Very cool BJ, thanks for the additional shots. Are you making a box top there or a frame? Nice job! Well I am out of here tomorrow, see you guys about Thursday night!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Thanks and have a good trip and a safe one...don't take any wooden nickels 


Bj 





challagan said:


> Very cool BJ, thanks for the additional shots. Are you making a box top there or a frame? Nice job! Well I am out of here tomorrow, see you guys about Thursday night!
> 
> Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The following shots are intended to illustrate how one can get started on ski and plunge routing at little cost and effort. I'm hoping that Template Tom will return to the forum after his holiday, and with Bj. produce some interesting projects allowing me to fade into the background. It would also be nice if Tom's training DVD were to hit the market in the not too distant future.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Thanks for the pictures, by the way it's hard to read the text   but it maybe my old eyes,,, red on tan is hard to see for me...white would be good 

Anyway I have a question for you, your cam parts do you use a big dowel rod and just cut of chunks on the band saw ?, I used the hole saw to make the ones I have but I'm sure you can see that with the 1/4" hole in the center of the cam...

I have a chunk of a small type hand rail in the wood rack and I think I'm going to pull it down and make some more cams with part of it...but then I do have some 8ft long dowels that are Oak and 1 3/4" OD but I think it maybe just a bit to big... for the cams ,,what do you think...   

Plus I see you use and like the thread inserts,,,,I don't care for them but I do like tee nuts and I think I will/did (7-30-07 see below) make a bigger setup base and use them with it.....(3/16) 10-24 thread size, 3 prog.type and the progs will be cut off short..  and use Allen Flat Head screws to lock the cams down in place...

Just a lay out tip 
One small NOTE***don't go to wide on the base board, check your drill press 1st. b/4 you lay it out on the base board, most can only drill holes about 6" from the main post (colum) of the drill press,the one I have will go to 7 1/4" max but it's not the norm...as you can see I was pushing it hard at a 15" wide base board.
You can drill it by hand but it's hard to keep it true that way..and you will need to counter sink the tee nuts on the back side of the base board...

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/5232-40mm-guides-templates-more.html

Bj 



harrysin said:


> The following shots are intended to illustrate how one can get started on ski and plunge routing at little cost and effort. I'm hoping that Template Tom will return to the forum after his holiday, and with Bj. produce some interesting projects allowing me to fade into the background. It would also be nice if Tom's training DVD were to hit the market in the not too distant future.


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

harrysin said:


> The following shots are intended to illustrate how one can get started on ski and plunge routing at little cost and effort. I'm hoping that Template Tom will return to the forum after his holiday, and with Bj. produce some interesting projects allowing me to fade into the background. It would also be nice if Tom's training DVD were to hit the market in the not too distant future.


Thanks Harry for changing this router forum into a true Routing Forum
Tom


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> My hand is out for Tom  , once he comes back will try and do just that,,,
> 
> ...


Bj
What can I say? 

As Harry would know I have been trying to promote the use of the template guides and the use of the jig holder for a number of years. He has been more persistant on the forum and I have to be grateful to his wonderful efforts. I suppose he has to go on notice as my finest 'Pupil' all those years ago. He certainly has worked wonders with you Bj to get you to change your mind. I hope you do enjoy your new found method of using the router and as you said in your posting you will try to convince others on the method and give it further promotion as members to the forum look up to you as a father figure when it comes to routing. It pleases me no end to see you now sending photographs with your postings to compliment your wording, it certainly does help, so please keep it up.

We have crossed the first hurdle for me submitting further postings on the use of the guides and I can only say this is just the first as you will see there are many more interesting projects that can be achieved and completed with greater safety using the guides.

I will be attending the School for the blind to take some Video of them at work with the router, when I return from Holiday.

I have still a few weeks to go before I return home and I may not have the opportunity to submit any further postings till I get back. So I look forward to all the Jig holders and template that I will see in use over the next weeks. 

Fellow members, follow Bj's lead and make your Jig holder and cams.

Harry thanks one more for your support and finding the time to change the minds of those on the forum you have done a wonderful job where I had failed.

Be with you soon
Tom


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Way to go fellas..... Now were cooking err.... I mean Routing!

Father Bj?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Tom, Thanks

You did not fail , I have a very hard head and it's not easy to get into it ,,, BUT once your in your in and I look forward to all the help I can get from you and Harry... 

I'm going to push YOUR way using the router along with Bob and Ricks and I think with both ways it will be a great woodworking forum for all that stop by and use it...


Have great Holiday hope to see you real soon 


Bj


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, you're not wasting any time making that jig, I like the size, there will be few projects that won't fit. Yes, our cams were cut from a large dowel on the radial arm saw. I think that 1.75" should be fine, if you think it necessary you could drill the hole slightly closer to the centre, also glass paper around the edges like Niki does would be a good idea, I've just been too lazy to do it to mine. I have a feeling that we are going places from now on. If anyone reading Tom's first post read into that he was suggesting that this forum was third rate prior to his appearance, they would be wrong. I've known Tom for quite some time and know that at times he doesn't express his thoughts as clearly as we would expect from a retired woodwork teacher, but all he is attempting to do is teach us an ALTERNATIVE method of routing, one that has given me personally many hours of pleasure and enabled me to make items that would have been very difficult or even impossible using the standard methods. Let's face it, there wouldn't be anyone on this forum who who didn't agree that Bj has consistently demonstrated his overall woodworking skills and he is now actively experimenting with Tom's methods, as he has stated, he will be using ALL methods of routing just as I do.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

"also glass paper around the edges like Niki does" = do you mean SAND paper ? to get a better grip and hold the poject in place ....if it's sand paper that would be a good one to do and I just may do that because I'm in hold pattern again waiting for the 10-24 Tee-Nuts and the 10-24 x 1" Allen Flat Caps screws to show up by UPS, I know I could run down to the hardware store and pickup a box of a 100 tee-nuts but at 15 cents ea. ,$15.00 bucks I will just wait and get them for $3.20 per.box of a 100, I know I'm a cheap SOB but I use alot of fastners and it can add real quick if I don't watch the bottom line,,,you can buy a box of fastners and it can be as high as a new router real easy....it's the little things that add up real quick.... 

Plus I want to use the new base to make a heart box with a lid ,once I get the base board done, solw and easy from this point on 

It looks like I'm going to get the rolling pin out and make some sand paper tubes so they fit the cams just right...  I use the sand paper on my spring loaded hold downs and it works great for them...the one I like best is on the table saw, it holds the board down and will not let the board take off across the shop once I let go of it with the push stick...that one little jig/fixture as saved my butt many times... and now that I have it on the saw it's on for good....but that's not to say it can't be taking off when it's in the way of a pass...one screw and it off quick and easy....

Well I'm off to the shop I need to clean up a bit to get ready for the new drill press today, take the old one down to parts so my son can take it home, it's been a great drill press for 35 years but it's time to replace it,,,(it's a old green Jet drill press and has drilled many,many holes for me over the years...) I was just thinking of what it has done for me,,,it made me 5,000.oo dollars with it at one time, I had to insert nylon screws in some Allen Cap screws and had to tap the holes for the nylon lock inserts, that was 1/8" in dia.(6-32 thread) I was in front of that drill press for 3 weeks drilling holes in the Allen Cap screws for the nylon screw inserts....that little job took 138 drill bits....

============
Just a update, now all the cams (29 ea.) now have sand paper (100 grit) around the out side of them  in this way the cams will hold the project in place just a bit better, thanks for the tip Harry D: now it's your turn to do the same 
It's not a hard job to do, I just cut the strips with a sharp knife,(on some glass) put them on some cardboard and got the 3M spray glue out, put on a coat and when they got tackey put sand paper around the out side on the cams then with just a bit of trim and they are done...waiting to go to work..



07-31-07
==========

Bj


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> I know I'm a cheap SOB but I use alot of fasteners and it can add real quick if I don't watch the bottom line,


And this is from the guy with 6,473 routers..


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

That's how I can buy all the routers by watching the bottom line   
Just like shipping charges that's right off the top and it's hard to recover them.


LOL LOL


Bj 



AxlMyk said:


> And this is from the guy with 6,473 routers..


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

template tom said:


> Thanks Harry for changing this router forum into a true Routing Forum
> Tom


I must apologise for the wording I used above. I only hope I have not offended any one especially all those who contribute their projects on a regular basis.
When you are away from home and using somone elses computer you tend to quickly just try and get the message over and you end up opening your mouth and putting your foot in it.
I know I should have taken greater time to submit the previous posting.
I will be away for the next three weeks and this will give me more time to consider my next posting.
Again my apology to all
Tom


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Hi Bj, Re-"glasspaper" There are several types of abrasive papers: Sand,glass,carborundum,Aluminium Oxide,Silicon Carbide, the latter two are what I actually use, expensive at about $AU1.20 per sheet, but compared to common or garden sand paper, worth every cent.
The terms sand and glass probably depends on where one is educated also what comes into my mind first!
Regarding doing my own cams, one day!
Regarding you're new drill press, is it one of those u beaut ones with digital readout etc.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

bobj3 said:


> Once I got the jig done and took a good look at it the bells started to go off in my head, what a great jig this is,,, it would be nice to have to put in the slots in the end parts because it's not safe to drop and slot in short/small parts, it can be just a bit nasty if one gets away but with this jig it would be easy to put in slots just about anysize plus it would be safe .. we all like to make jigs with slots but putting in the slots can be a hard job sometimes but with this cam lock parts on the jig and the plunge router one can now do it safe....


I know this is an older post but, in case others are searching for info on making skis as I was. I have a tip for cutting the slots in the ends(Bj I think this is actually your idea). I Drew out the end pieces on a slab of mdf and cut the slots first with Bj's dado jig and some scraps of plywood clamped to it to control the length of the slots. I used a plunge router and a 3/8" spiral bit to get through the 3/4" mdf in about 4 passes. Then cut the ends to finished size on the tablesaw.

Just in case you hav'nt heard of Bj's dado jig. It is simply 2 boards joined together with a 1" gap in between, or 1 board with a 1" slot. Used with a 1" O.D. template guide you can make a dado or slot with any bit that fits through the guide. It's very simple to set up by marking your center line, use a 1/2" brass bar in the slot, and clamp in place. Mine is made of left over laminate flooring.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Well done Rusty, I'm sure that you will find many uses for the ski mounted router, do show us from time to time.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Looking Good Rusty

I just did a drop and slot on the router table when I made mine,and I was thinking at the time, this wil be the last time I will need to do this the unsafe way,and I forgot about the jig way  good job bud ..


I use the ski jig just the other day and I was still amazed how it makes the job so easy to do......slots for just one of many... 


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RustyW said:


> I know this is an older post but, in case others are searching for info on making skis as I was. I have a tip for cutting the slots in the ends(Bj I think this is actually your idea). I Drew out the end pieces on a slab of mdf and cut the slots first with Bj's dado jig and some scraps of plywood clamped to it to control the length of the slots. I used a plunge router and a 3/8" spiral bit to get through the 3/4" mdf in about 4 passes. Then cut the ends to finished size on the tablesaw.
> 
> Just in case you hav'nt heard of Bj's dado jig. It is simply 2 boards joined together with a 1" gap in between, or 1 board with a 1" slot. Used with a 1" O.D. template guide you can make a dado or slot with any bit that fits through the guide. It's very simple to set up by marking your center line, use a 1/2" brass bar in the slot, and clamp in place. Mine is made of left over laminate flooring.


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