# Sliding table for table saw



## Damir 66 (Dec 18, 2009)

Well, I have a small table saw and I want make sliding table with bearings and guide rails.Maybe is strange, but I think, this is a only way for precision on my saw.Do you know how?

Thanks


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I think if you incorporate the saw into a larger table, and use a sled, you may have better results.

Table saw station a la NYW - by ErsatzTom @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

The RunnerDuck Table Saw Sled, step by step instructions.


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## Damir 66 (Dec 18, 2009)

The problem is, the T-slot on saw had not parallel with blade, and I cannot fix this problem.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

The usual way is to adjust the blade so it is parallel with the T-Slot. Does your table not have any blade adjustment? What model is it?


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

just my opinion if your saw is at fault you would be better off trashing your saw and buying one that will suit the bill, you ed end up spending more cash retrofitting your old saw with a sliding table that may or may not work? you can get a very nice used saw for around 150.00n off of craigslist or the like. good luck.


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## distrbd (Oct 8, 2009)

drasbell said:


> just my opinion if your saw is at fault you would be better off trashing your saw and buying one that will suit the bill, you ed end up spending more cash retrofitting your old saw with a sliding table that may or may not work? you can get a very nice used saw for around 150.00n off of craigslist or the like. good luck.


Great advice.most blades can be adjusted but if it can not then one good reason to just get rid of it and get a contractor saw with cast iron top which will never tip over , and blade is adjustable.


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## Damir 66 (Dec 18, 2009)

Einhell.German company, but manufactured in China (f...ing China crapp).I buy this saw when I was building the shed, and was good for this job, but for precision job, is not good.The only reason why I buy this saw is bargain.And now, I batter my head in the wall.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

DAMIR66 said:


> Einhell.German company, but manufactured in China (f...ing China crapp).I buy this saw when I was building the shed, and was good for this job, but for precision job, is not good.The only reason why I buy this saw is bargain.And now, I batter my head in the wall.


That saw looks to be reasonably well made.. are you sure it's not adjustable? Just in case you're not familiar with the procedure, normally you would loosen the trunion (arbour assembly) mounting bolts and align the blade with the left mitre slot. However, it could be like mine and you would have to loosen the mounting bolts for the table top and move the top to align with the blade.

If it's not adjustable then it's just an accident waiting to happen.


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

DAMIR66 said:


> Einhell.German company, but manufactured in China (f...ing China crapp).I buy this saw when I was building the shed, and was good for this job, but for precision job, is not good.The only reason why I buy this saw is bargain.And now, I batter my head in the wall.


You are not alone.
I bought an even cheaper one from Plus (a former supermarket chain in Germany).

It's the worst thing that I've ever bought.

I'm going to strip it down for the motor (for a possible lathe or sander build) and the On/Off switch for my router table.

The rest is just scrap.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Damir

Have you tried taking it to Einhell themselves ? They are up near Krapina.
Einhell Croatia d.o.o. Velika Ves 2 49224 Lepajci Croatia. Managing Director: Mr . Zdravko Lesko Phone +385 49 342444. Fax +385 49 342392 ...
Einhell Group · Einhell Croatia d.o.o

See if they will swap it.

Although there is a Croatian Craigslist,there are never any tools showing.
Butiga, or its equivalent for the Zagreb area, might be more useful.

If you do make up a sled, how will you guide it, as the usual way is using the T-slot and that is obviously out? 
You could have runners hanging off the sides of the table, with adjusting screws through them at each corner, pointing in towards the table edges, in order to line it up. If you put hardwood runners between the adjusting screws and the table edge so the sliding bit is always wood and not the screw ends it would work.


Cheers

Peter


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

hmm sorry I didn't notice where you lived..here is site that sells your saw perhaps you can contact them for help..
International Service Center


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Yeah, I checked out the PDFs on that page, but they didn't seem entirely helpful.


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## Damir 66 (Dec 18, 2009)

The table top composed of the 4 aluminium board..The motor is attached on one of this board and this is problem.Motor didn´t attached independently and because this, table top and motor cannot adjustable and T-slot on this board is not straight.

Anyway, thanks guys.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

If that's the case, couldn't you enlarge the holes ever so slightly where the motor mounts? You shouldn't need more than a millimeter or so.


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## Frank Lee (Nov 29, 2008)

*Adustments*



BrianS said:


> That saw looks to be reasonably well made.. are you sure it's not adjustable? Just in case you're not familiar with the procedure, normally you would loosen the trunion (arbour assembly) mounting bolts and align the blade with the left mitre slot. However, it could be like mine and you would have to loosen the mounting bolts for the table top and move the top to align with the blade.
> 
> If it's not adjustable then it's just an accident waiting to happen.


 If it's bolted together it is adjustable ! Frank Lee Kingman, Az.:yes4:


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## Wood-Chuck (Aug 12, 2005)

That saw is an accident waiting to happen. I would remove the blade, add a steel plate in its place and apply self adhesive sand paper, it will work fine as a disk sander and the table alignment doesn't matter.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Wood-Chuck said:


> That saw is an accident waiting to happen. I would remove the blade, add a steel plate in its place and apply self adhesive sand paper, it will work fine as a disk sander and the table alignment doesn't matter.


What makes you say this? Do you have specific, or firsthand, knowledge of something that makes this TS no good?


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Probably the most profound risk is kick back. If the blade is not parallel to the miter slot it is likely not parallel to the rip fence as well. This can create a pinch point that will force the blade to grab a hold of the work piece and shoot it back at the operator. This could happen both with the rip fence and with the miter gauge. Having personally having a board end up in my gut as result of a similar issue, I can tell you this was no fun. I was lucky and only had a very painful bruise. This type of kick back can cause loss of body parts and worse still can rupture organs that could result in death.

Alas, I do understand as well that it isn't easy to replace a tool, especially one that you recently bought that you were expecting more out of. I ended up replacing my newer table saw with used older, but much higher quality saw and have not regretted it since. I also keep in mind that this is an older saw with an older rip fence (hoping to put an after market fence on it next year). I ALWAYS measure the front and the back of the blade to the fence to make sure they are parallel to each other after locking it down.

That said, I agree with the others, if the trunions are bolted to the table, there should be enough slop in them that if you loosen them up you should be able to get the alignment you need. You may need to use something to wedge it place when you retighten the bolts. If this still doesn't work and elongating the holes isn't an option, then I agree with the other bit of advice, the saw needs to be replaced.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

NiceG316 said:


> Probably the most profound risk is kick back. If the blade is not parallel to the miter slot it is likely not parallel to the rip fence as well. This can create a pinch point that will force the blade to grab a hold of the work piece and shoot it back at the operator. This could happen both with the rip fence and with the miter gauge. Having personally having a board end up in my gut as result of a similar issue, I can tell you this was no fun. I was lucky and only had a very painful bruise. This type of kick back can cause loss of body parts and worse still can rupture organs that could result in death.
> 
> Alas, I do understand as well that it isn't easy to replace a tool, especially one that you recently bought that you were expecting more out of. I ended up replacing my newer table saw with used older, but much higher quality saw and have not regretted it since. I also keep in mind that this is an older saw with an older rip fence (hoping to put an after market fence on it next year). I ALWAYS measure the front and the back of the blade to the fence to make sure they are parallel to each other after locking it down.
> 
> That said, I agree with the others, if the trunions are bolted to the table, there should be enough slop in them that if you loosen them up you should be able to get the alignment you need. You may need to use something to wedge it place when you retighten the bolts. If this still doesn't work and elongating the holes isn't an option, then I agree with the other bit of advice, the saw needs to be replaced.


 
Oh.

I took Wood-Chuck's post as refering to the saw in general, not the saw with this specific problem. Since the whole point of the post was to find a solution, it didn't occur to me that "That saw is an accident waiting to happen" was supposed to apply to the saw with the problem (i.e. stating the obvious).


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

According to the description, the fence is adjustable.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Cocheseuga said:


> According to the description, the fence is adjustable.


 
??? The problem is with the miter slot.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I'm aware. That was in response to Mike.


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## Damir 66 (Dec 18, 2009)

Maybe is this solution for my problem.


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## Tommyt654 (Apr 5, 2009)

Could just buy 1 of these, G4227 Sliding Table For Table Saws & Shapers


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I don't have a sliding table nor have I ever used one but I have seen them and would certainly like one. My take on this is you still might need to adjust the blade to be parallel with the sliding table unless you build some adjustment into the setup itself. I can't see any from the diagrams above.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Jessem has one that occasionally shows up on the bay for around 300.00 used, give or take. The Incra 5000 is another take on a similar operation. However the Incra relies on the miter slots. The above table slider could be mounted at an offset equal to the blades offset. Getting that part right would be one thing, repeatability would be another altogether. I'm not saying it couldn't be done, but would it be worth it?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Bear in mind that the original table was only a 100 bucks !

Damir, the second design looks a possible but I suspect is designed for a much heavier saw with a cast iron bed. Putting it on yours might pull it over.

Cheers

Peter


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

as the owner of one of the ryobi bt3000 saws that had the sliding table, i used it when i had my saw because i didnt have an accurate miter gauge. it worked fine, but the ryobi saw left a big need for the miter slots for building jigs. it seemed that i needed a gauge for every jig i wanted to build.

after being terribly disapointed that it didnt have miter slots and having a severely flawed cheap fence, i decided to get a real saw with miter slots. i purchased a ridgid ts 3660. its a great saw.

i think now with a good saw with miter slots and having a crosscut panel, i have no need for a sliding table.


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