# small pieces



## fishlore (Oct 28, 2007)

I need to round over some small pieces - 1" disks for toy wheels, small figures etc. I've got a 1/4" round-over bit with a bearing mounted in the router but I'm uneasy about getting my fingers all that close to the bit. Is there a good technique for holding these small pieces? Also, my table (a Wolfcraft) doesn't have any inserts so there is a bit of a gap between the table and the bit. Is there a good way to make an insert for a table?


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

I think I'd try mounting them to a carrier board using a Flat Head bolt that would sink into the wheel and not hit the table... a spacer between wheel & carrier board to allow router bit room...

Then using a bearing router roundover bit... where bearing would hit center of wheel (I trust the wheel disk is round & smooth)... Adjust the bit... and run the wheels around the bit... dismount wheel & turn it over for other side...

Make sense?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Fihlore

The router may not be the right tool to do this job,,  1" dia. are very small..

This is what I do when I need to round over Small wheels

Insert a 1/4 bolt into the wheel with a washer on bolt and then put on a nut and lock the nut in place then chuck up the bolt in your battery drill motor and take it to your sander or if you don't have a bench sander clamp one of your hand sander in a vise, then lock it on and put the wheel to the sander,, they will come out clean and with just the right round over, try it 1st. with a test wheel once you have it down then do the rest of them... 




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fishlore said:


> I need to round over some small pieces - 1" disks for toy wheels, small figures etc. I've got a 1/4" round-over bit with a bearing mounted in the router but I'm uneasy about getting my fingers all that close to the bit. Is there a good technique for holding these small pieces? Also, my table (a Wolfcraft) doesn't have any inserts so there is a bit of a gap between the table and the bit. Is there a good way to make an insert for a table?


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## Roefa (Sep 14, 2007)

Hi Fish -
That's good advice from Joe and Bob. Keep your fingers away from those bits ! 
Also, if you have a lathe, that might be another way to make them. If you're not opposed to buying them, do a search on "Wood Toy Wheels" and you'll get lots of hits. Here's the first one I found:

http://www.craftparts.com/mall/page38.asp 

..most any kind you can think of. Post some photos of your projects for us.
Good luck.

Roger
(Roefa)


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Roefa said:


> Hi Fish -
> That's good advice from Joe and Bob. Keep your fingers away from those bits !
> Also, if you have a lathe, that might be another way to make them. If you're not opposed to buying them, do a search on "Wood Toy Wheels" and you'll get lots of hits. Here's the first one I found:
> 
> ...



Roger, those are sure good prices on little wheels! At those prices, why make them?! :sold:


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I agree, great prices but then they are bags of 100, not sure how many would want 100 of them sitting around. Bookmarked that one!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

If it looks to good to be true it just maybe,,, the last time I ordered some off the net the price was about the same ,ONLY it was a each price.../10ea. in a bag,,, hardwood wheels for .06 cents ea.. hummmmmm sounds to to good....  see Rockler web page.

I did send them a email just to check on it...
=======
# SW-1750
Price Per Bag of 12, $10.00,, bag of 48 $37.44

SW-1750 Spoke Wheels,,, 1-3/4" x 1/4" hole $10.00 per. 12

SW-2750 Spoke Wheels,,,2-3/4" x 3/8" hole $15.60 per. 12
==========

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1538&filter=toy wheel

Great for old style model cars and wild west wagons. 
Sets include axles and four wheels. 
Spoked wheels come with tapered axle pegs, 
sold in sets of 4.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1539


http://www.rockler.com/search_results.cfm?filter=toy+wheel&submit.x=21&submit.y=10


=============


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Corey
> 
> If it looks to good to be true it just maybe,,, the last time I ordered some off the net the price was about the same ,ONLY it was a each price.../10ea. in a bag,,, hardwood wheels for .06 cents ea.. hummmmmm sounds to to good....  see Rockler web page.
> 
> ...



I think it's TRUE...

Their website Clearly states:
*BEST BUY-10 or More Bags
Price per Bag of 100 Pieces*

MW-1000	1"	1/4"	3/16"	$5.50

Who is going to pay $5.50 for one 1" wheel?

http://www.craftparts.com/mall/page38.asp

*This is really a super place to buy such items... 
No doubt about it.*


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I think it is true as well, otherwise they would be in a little bit of trouble. If you add to the cart it will say the size/100. I wouldn't order them that way as I wouldn't want to be tripping over and storing bags of 100 wheels. They do sell a lot of the wheels in packs of 8, that makes more sense to me. Good link though to keep in the back pocket. 

Corey


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## Roefa (Sep 14, 2007)

Well, one more option, gents...Fish, we'll git dis cat skint real good!!!
Try drilling the axle hole in your wood, then put a machine screw through
it with a couple of washers and a nut. Now chuck the screw in your drill press or
a strapped-down hand drill. Get files, sandpaper, whatever and go to it! Shape those wheels to however ya want 'em.

Roger
(Roefa)


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

It isn't often that I agree with Joe, but I do agree with his method for the wheels, but make the "board " out of Acrylic so that you can see what's going on.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

Just one more way to make the SMALL Wheels 

You can buy dowell rod and cut off all the wheels you need in a heart beat, with a bit of sanding you have them done..
With a stop block on the chop saw or the RAS you can make tons of them quick and easy..

1" one for about .01 ea. ,then make a quick jig for the drill press a drill the holes for the pins/dowel to hold them on the toy.. 

You can get dowel rod up to 2" dia..in hardwood the norm...


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Before you flame me and tell me how this is overkill --
Let me assure you - I would not disagree.
At those prices -- I would more than likely just buy the wheels.
And no -- I've never tried this.
Just sitting here bored and brainstorming.
But -- if I had a project that needed *lots* of wheels - 
Or if I anticipated *lots* of projects requiring wheels -- 
and I decided I WANTED to make them and WANTED to use the router
-- this is probably what I would do --

*1)Make the base*
Make a base/carrier out of 1/4" MDF or plywood
- Make it about 3" wide and about 2" longer than the distance from your miter track to your bit.
- cut two slots mounting screws
*2)Make and attach a strip for the miter track*
Cut a strip of wood about 3" long and the proper width and depth for your miter track.
Attach the strip to the base by running screws through the slots cut above.
This allows the base to be adjusted for different size wheels or different tables.
*3)Cut and attach Dowels*
-Put a 1/4" dowel about 3" long on each side to mount a 'hold-down' bar
-Put a 1/8" dowel about 3" long in the center to hold your wheel
*4)Make a hold down strip out of 1/2" or 3/4" stock* 
- Make it as long as the narrow end of your base and about 3/4" wide
- Drill holes so that it will slide over the three dowels
If you have some scrap acrylic handy and want a little extra 'protection'
Cut a small shield and attach it to the hold-down bar.
*5)Set up the cut*
-Slide your wheel stock over the center pin followed by the washer.
-Then slide the hold-down bar in place
- Position your jig and set the depth of cut on your router for the desired roundover
- Tighten the screws holding the base to the miter strip
- Slide the jig back out of the way
*6)Make the cut*
-Turn your router on
-Hold the hold-down bar in place with the 4 fingers of one hand
-Hold the wheel stock with that thumb
-Use the other hand to slide the jig back into position
-As the stock comes in contact with the cutter -- slowly turn it with your thumb

Flip the wheel over and do the other side.
This assumes your wheel stock is CLOSE to round -- but since your distance is set by the center pin not the router bearing -- minor imperfections are taken care of.
You could adapt this same jig (without the plastic shield) to cut your initial circles.
If I knew I only planned on making one size wheel on one table --
I would probably skip the adjustment slots -- and just measure and mount the track strip as needed for this project.

Anyway -- just another way it CAN be done.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> Just one more way to make the SMALL Wheels
> 
> ...


The only thing that I don't care for, using Dowels, is all of the Wheels would have cross-grain on the main surfaces of the wheels which would make it harder to finish and would also be very weak and easier to break.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Drugstore Cowboy said:


> Before you flame me and tell me how this is overkill --
> Let me assure you - I would not disagree.
> At those prices -- I would more than likely just buy the wheels.
> And no -- I've never tried this.
> ...


Now, there's a real system for making small wheels!   :sold:


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Now, there's a real system for making small wheels!   :sold:


Thanks - it made sense to me 

ACTUALLY -- 
I DID catch one detail that I am sure others have as well.
If you were going to do something similar to this - 
You will want TWO fingers on the wheel stock.
One to rotate it --
The other to hold it steady - keep the router bit from spinning it when you reposition your 'rotating' finger.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

I surprise you didn't say HOLE SAW/Rosette bit, that's quite a jig do do just a simple thing like make toys wheels  that jig would be just a bit hairy for the 1" ones...and smaller...  

But you know I like jigs so a I say hurrah for one more way to make them good job Cowboy 

..


============





Drugstore Cowboy said:


> Before you flame me and tell me how this is overkill --
> Let me assure you - I would not disagree.
> At those prices -- I would more than likely just buy the wheels.
> And no -- I've never tried this.
> ...


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Cowboy
> 
> I surprise you didn't say HOLE SAW/Rosette bit, that's quite a jig do do just a simple thing like make toys wheels  that jig would be just a bit hairy for the 1" ones...and smaller...
> 
> ...


Well -
- that it would likely be more trouble than it is worth -
- I acknowledged in my first two sentences.
The only reasons I can think of to do it this way -
- would be if you *wanted* to do it on the router table -
- and if you just *enjoyed* tinkering with jigs.
Oh - And that it gives you one jig you can use for both cutting the original circles - and doing the roundovers.

As for why I didn't suggest a rosette cutter -- 
That's easy -
I don't have one
And I do have the scraps needed to make the jig.
I was brainstorming is what *I *would do.
And *my* first inclination is *always* to use what I have on hand before going to buy something.

As for it being 'hairy' for a 1" wheel -- I'm at a loss there -
As I sketched out the plans -- I scaled it around a 1" wheel.
See no reason it wouldn't work.
Yes -- if you got much smaller than 1" -- you would need to adapt
And frankly -- I probably wouldn't bother -- just buy 'em.
If by hairy you mean scarey -- I don't see it the problem.

Anyway -- not arguing -- just replying.
Like I said -- I've never actually done this.
Chances are if I ever do -- I may not like it 
You never know.
I've made myself curious now though --
Have no need for wheels -- but may have to throw this together this weekend and test it out.

Thanks for the kind words.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

Toys are great to make, and give them away to the kids at Xmax...If I recall Doug ask the members to make some and he would get them to the kids this year but it's bit late now  but it would be great if you and others would make some for next year they are fun to make with the scrap stock we all have in the shop,,,,I did make some this year but they are going to the grandkids this year but maybe next year 

"rosette cutter" ,,,no jig needed just a drill press and some scrap wood, clamp the stock down cut one side then flip it over and do the other side to make a great toy wheels...

http://www.grizzly.com/products/searchresults.aspx?q=rosette+&submit.x=7&submit.y=9
http://www.grizzly.com/products/searchresults.aspx?q=rosette+cutter&submit.x=8&submit.y=9



==============


Drugstore Cowboy said:


> Well -
> - that it would likely be more trouble than it is worth -
> - I acknowledged in my first two sentences.
> The only reasons I can think of to do it this way -- would be if you wanted to do it on the router table -- and if you just enjoyed tinkering with jigs.
> ...


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

BJ -
I couldn't agree more on the rosette cutter idea.:sold: 
It takes care of both the rounding over for the 'tire' and the shaping of the 'wheel'. It's a great idea -- 
*IF* you have one and a drill press to mount it in  
*Since I don't --*  
I have to stand by *any* of the other ideas that were mentioned as being less expensive/easier - up front.

As for my specific suggestion---
I was trying to address fishlore's original queston --- 
"I've got a 1/4" round-over bit with a bearing mounted in the router but I'm uneasy about getting my fingers all that close to the bit. *Is there a good technique for holding these small pieces?*" (emphasis added)
That was what was asked -- so that is what my bored brain set about trying to answer  nothing more --

As for a drill press ----
I'm hoping maybe Santy Claus will bring me one for Christmas --
If he does -- I promise to make some toys for charity next year.
I've been looking for a good excuse to do some of that.
Unfortunately -- all the kids in my family are a bit past that stage.:'(


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

You don't need a drill press to use them (rosette cutters) I have seen some use them in a good 1/2" drill motor, the hard part in using them with the hand drill is starting them because most don't have a center pin to keep them running true...but it can be done..once they dig in just a bit you can hold it true...the last time I saw someone use them without a drill press he had blocks on the side of the bit to keep it running true, but it takes a drill like a hole hog to turn them..they are removing tons of stock in one turn of the bit.....

Doing it on the router table,, like I said in the 1st part of this post not a good way to do this job...fingers are hard to glue back on and it's only a wood toy wheel... 

I don't like to get my fingers or my hand with it 6" of the bit that running at 10,000 rpm's or more ,,,no jig in the world can replace my parts if they get removed by taking a chance with a router bit..just takes a sec.and it's gone...plus I don't like the red color on my router table to remind me how dumb I was in trying that in the 1st. place.... 



==============


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Cowboy
> . . .
> Doing it on the router table,, like I said in the 1st part of this post not a good way to do this job...fingers are hard to glue back on and it's only a wood toy wheel...
> 
> ...


That's your opinion - and you are certainly welcome to it.
I totally agree with the need to respect any tool that can do that much damage.

Frankly -- as concerned as you are about doing this on a router --
I would be that concerned trying to use a rosette cutter in a hand held drill.
My wrists are just not that steady.

As to whether using the router is a good tool to use for this or not -
I wouldn't argue one way or the other --- never tried it.
Again that wasn't the question I was answering -- 
I was answering the question - is there a way to hold small pieces so they could be rounded over with a router.
I've looked and looked back at my design -- and I dont see any reasonable way of getting your fingers and the bit together.
Right now though -- its just a idea on paper --
I'll have to make a prototype and see.

If I am typing my posts with fewer fingers after the holidays -- 
I guess you were right.

For now -- I think this tangent of the discussion has gone as far as it needs to. It all boils down to personal preference -- and there is no right or wrong.

Besides- -- Happy Hour starts in 5 minutes !!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy


hahahahaahahahahahahahaha I'm trying to goat you into trying it hahahahahahaha.


Like Bob R. will say all the time get your router out and have some fun with it...and making some toys ,it's a great way to do that.. 

But you will need for go the happy hour.. LOL LOL


I'm looking forward to seeing your jig and wheels that you have made with it for the toys next year I hope ..  I'm sure you must have some scrap wood in the shop.


===========


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Cowboy
> hahahahaahahahahahahahaha I'm trying to goat you into trying it hahahahahahaha.
> ===========


If you mean -- using a rosette cutter in a hand held drill ----
NOT gonna happen  
I ran a 1" spade bit through some sheetrock once -- and hit some 90 year old Southern Yellow Pine ---
That taught this old dawg all he needs to know about torque and leverage. 

NOT denying that others may be able to do it -- but I know my limitations.
I'll let that wait on the drill press.



bobj3 said:


> Like Bob R. will say all the time get your router out and have some fun with it...and making some toys ,it's a great way to do that..
> ===========


Don't doubt it for a second --I've always wanted to explore toy making.
But first I have to learn to quit letting myself get talked into these remodelign type projects.
Between now an New Years I have a floor to refinish -- garage doors to replace and a pergola to build -- MOST of which are in the nature of favors -
ie -- I will do good to break even on materials



bobj3 said:


> I'm looking forward to seeing your jig and wheels that you have made with it for the toys next year I hope ..  I'm sure you must have some scrap wood in the shop.
> ===========


Count on it --
Originally that design was just a hypothetical answer to fishlore's question.
But now I've gotten myself curious -- 
Gonna HAVE to try it.
And I will let you see the results -- good or bad.


===========[/QUOTE]


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Cowboy

That's it get ticked off and say I will show you smart [email protected]*,,,, that's what I had in mine...  it's alway best to try something new, that's the fun thing about the router...it can do so much and I'm sure you will come up with a neat way to do it.. 

I just need to get you to try it  but pls. be care-full don't remove any parts you will need down the road... 

===========


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

There is only one way to convince others that what you have submitted as a solution is correct, is to try it first before posting. I could have said maybe it could have been produced with the use of template guides. Before a couple go shouting at me I said *Maybe* it could have been done. The only way to prove it is to try it and maybe by the end of the week I will have given it a go. 

I must say they are very small. In the past I have produced 50mm (2") wheels with the aid of the guides.
As Bob says it is the fun trying it and it makes you feel good if it works.

So if you think you have a solution try it out first, personally I would not be in favour of using the router with the methods presented in the earlier posts.

I for one would be interested in the attempts of others.
Tom


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## fishlore (Oct 28, 2007)

*Thanks for the wheel info*

Thans to everyone for the advice! I guess I won't be using the router to round over the disks - gotta keep all ten thumbs for the next project! BTW I use a $15 ajustable circle cutter on my dinky drill press to cut the disks - does a super job. There are some great rosette type cutters that make beautiful wheels but they aren't cheap. 

Wheels seems to have gotten a lot of attention. Any ideas for rounding over irregular but small pieces - animal shapes for example? 

Thanks again


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Well, a lot has been said about small wheels and I was going to leave it at that, until Tom issued his challenge, so expanding on Joe's idea of mounting the wheel on a plate, I came back with the idea of making the plate from acrylic so that one could see the cutter. Well here is the final answer which is very safe, the bigger the disc the safer it is!
I didn't have anything around one inch dia. so I cut a branch from a tree and selected a slice about the right size. I couldn't actually try it out because my router table has a 6' x 3' one inch thick sheet of Melamine covered particle board which normally stands against my garage wall but comes out when I need a large surface such as when making the sign and it is far too heavy for me to shift on my own so some imagination will be required when viewing the shots.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

I thought as I read Joe's post that his theory and mine were very similar -
And Harry's prototype confirms it.
Harry/Joe --
I am NOT being critical -- it is probably something I am missing --
But -- in this variation -- how do you turn the wheel stock?
That's why I left the back half of the stock exposed in my plans -

The way I am looking at it -- with the stock simply pinched between the top plate and the bottom one -- how do you insure that turning the top plate turns the stock ?
Now - if you add some double-stick tape or sandpaper to secure the stock to the top plate????
Or am I missing something obvious?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Well all I can say is

http://www.routerforums.com/56471-post22.html
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/6029-corey.html
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/5980-x-mas-toys-kiddies-not.html


==============


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

fishlore said:


> . . . Any ideas for rounding over irregular but small pieces - animal shapes for example?


Well --ONE of the best ways to do that -- on several levels ---
and the wheels you asked about originally -- 
Doesn't need a jig -
or a router
or a drill press
or even electricity ---

All you need is a good sharp knife and some patience, talent and skill.
I have had the privilege of watching my grandfather and others sit and turn a rough piece of wood into some of the most intricate and detailed items you can imagine.

Sadly -- I have the sharp knife -- but not the patience, talent or skill.
So -- I would probably use a dremel tool or just hand sand them.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

template tom said:


> . . .personally I would not be in favour of using the router with the methods presented in the earlier posts. . . .


To be perfectly honest -wait for it ------- *neither would I*.
Not because I think they are unsafe -- or yada yada --
But because there are ways I think would provide better results -
If you want detailed wheels with tires and rims -- the rosette cutter
Or if you just want rounded over circles -- BJ's cut off dowels and some sanding would be hard to beat.

BUT -- the question that was asked - was how to hold the piece so it could be rounded over on the router --- so I - and some others -- took up the challenge of figuring that out. I'm a tinkerer - 

*PERSONALLY* -
- because my satisfaction comes from working as closely with the wood as possible -if I wanted detailed wheels - my DESIRE would be to hand carve them -
- but since I lack the patience and the skill needed to do that -
I would probably go with the rosette cutter -- or -- just buy them.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Cowboy

No fun in just buying them ,,,  if all he want's to do is round them over the tool below will do that all day long and it's safe way of doing that job, plus you don't need a drill press because the tool has a center drill/guide point to keep it running true..

All that's needed is take the cutters to the grinder and round them over just a bit,it can be use on just about any toy wheel...  the same round over type grind that's on a round over router bit...just not as big...deep



http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-Adjustable...5162140QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50383QQcmdZViewItem

You can find this type of tool at just about any wood working supply store.. 
The one I had a gave to my son to use to put in holes for some 6" light cans, yes it will go out to 6 1/8" dia. by switching the cutters around but I still have the one from Grizzly that works the same way but it only has one cutter and it's a better setup I think...with a adjustment screw on one end of the cutter bar holder... 


==========

============


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> HI Cowboy
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-Adjustable-Circle-Hole-Saw-Cutter-Drill-Bit_W0QQitemZ130175162140QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50383QQcmdZViewItem
> 
> You can find this type of tool at just about any wood working supply store..


Yep -- I know the tool --
In fact I think I still have one buried somewhere I bought for a project similar to your son's. Haven't used it in ages. Truth be told -- I don't cut that many circles -- when I do I either use a fixed size hole saw -- or router and a circle jig. Found a great one at Woodcraft.

I admit I had never thought of carving a roundover into the cutter.
Makes perfect sense- :sold: 
Have to put that on my list of things to tinker with some time.
Thanks


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

harrysin said:


> Well, a lot has been said about small wheels and I was going to leave it at that, until Tom issued his challenge, so expanding on Joe's idea of mounting the wheel on a plate, I came back with the idea of making the plate from acrylic so that one could see the cutter. Well here is the final answer which is very safe, the bigger the disc the safer it is!
> I didn't have anything around one inch dia. so I cut a branch from a tree and selected a slice about the right size. I couldn't actually try it out because my router table has a 6' x 3' one inch thick sheet of Melamine covered particle board which normally stands against my garage wall but comes out when I need a large surface such as when making the sign and it is far too heavy for me to shift on my own so some imagination will be required when viewing the shots.


Great idea Harry

If I could be so bold to suggest an alternative to the fence by inserting two 25mm diameter bearings for the disc to run on might be better.
Tom


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Drugstore Cowboy said:


> I thought as I read Joe's post that his theory and mine were very similar -
> And Harry's prototype confirms it.
> Harry/Joe --
> I am NOT being critical -- it is probably something I am missing --
> ...



Hi Cowboy,

My thought was a Carrier (Acrylic per Harry = good idea, if you have it) with the Wheel bolted to it; Nut end going Up, Bolt Head down & countersunk.

Yes, I was thinking of some sandpaper between wheel & Carrier... with the wheel solidly bolted, it should not spin when the bearing is against the middle of the wheel cutting the lower edge of the wheel... Reverse wheel for doing other side.

It would be important not to tip the carrier board and to keep the wheel flat against the table, which I don't think would be hard to do. Both hands could be placed around the carrier while routing... good control.

I hope I clarified it OK...


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

template tom said:


> Great idea Harry
> 
> If I could be so bold to suggest an alternative to the fence by inserting two 25mm diameter bearings for the disc to run on might be better.
> Tom



Tom, if I'm reading your diagram properly, isn't the bit cutting a pretty heavy piece out of the wheel just to trim the edges?

Looks like it would be harder to adjust for the final cut... (?)


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Tom, if I'm reading your diagram properly, isn't the bit cutting a pretty heavy piece out of the wheel just to trim the edges?
> 
> Looks like it would be harder to adjust for the final cut... (?)


Joe 
[*COLOR=Navy]This was an extension to what Harry had submitted have a look at the cutter he had in place (No bearing) to get in the way. therefore there was no further reduction in the size of the wheel.[/COLOR]*

Tom


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tom 

I like it 

Are you saying like the drawing below and the snapshot of the bit below


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

template tom said:


> Joe
> [*COLOR=Navy]This was an extension to what Harry had submitted have a look at the cutter he had in place (No bearing) to get in the way. therefore there was no further reduction in the size of the wheel.[/COLOR]*
> 
> Tom


I should have also added insert supports for the disc as it is rotating just in front of the Bearings
Tom


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Hi Cowboy,
> 
> My thought was a Carrier (Acrylic per Harry = good idea, if you have it) with the Wheel bolted to it; Nut end going Up, Bolt Head down & countersunk. . . .
> I hope I clarified it OK...


Yep -- 
Sounds good.
I had missed that the acrylic top was the carrier -- and the stock was bolted to it.
Sounds like a very workable approach.


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Tom
> 
> I like it
> 
> ...


Hi Bob You snuck in as I was composing and adding to my drawing.Great
I should have waited a few minutes before I posted my reply as you have detailed it correctly
Tom


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

template tom said:


> Hi Bob You snuck in with a great answer as I was composing and adding to my drawing.Great
> I should have waited a few minutes before I posted my reply as you have detailed it correctly
> Tom


Thanks again Bob for the great drawing I have also added a further disc support after looking at you drawing.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

template tom said:


> There is only one way to convince others that what you have submitted as a solution is correct, is to try it first before posting. . . .


Convincing people --- nawww not my thing. 
Not much more interested in convincing someone else of anything than I am them trying to convince me.
I find people usually do a pretty good job of making up their own minds what they like and what they dont -- and who they trust and who they dont.
I think most people (here and anywhere) have people they would trust if they told me the sky was green -- and others they wouldnt believe if they said water was wet -
- and poured it on them to prove it  

But - yes - the test of any theory is in practice -
So - yeah -- I probably will throw my jig together this weekend - as BJ suggested -- NOT to try to convince anyone of anything -
- but just to address my own curiosity.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Drugstore Cowboy said:


> Convincing people --- nawww not my thing.
> Not much more interested in convincing someone else of anything than I am them trying to convince me.
> I find people usually do a pretty good job of making up their own minds what they like and what they dont -- and who they trust and who they dont.
> I think most people (here and anywhere) have people they would trust if they told me the sky was green -- and others they wouldnt believe if they said water was wet -
> ...


*DITTO...*

There is one thing I think I'd do... after cutting the basic wheel, if needed, put it into a drill press / portable drill (held in place) and get it sanded to a circle (for sure)... like using a poor man's lathe...  

I think Bob mentioned this... (?)


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hmmmm, I've read and reread this entired post several times. 

So, here's my thoughts.... Dremel!! This would work for me atleast. Only thing needed is a "stone" not a "bit". So if your fingers did touch, you wouldn't get hurt. But, this may not be the thing for you. Each his/her own. :sold:


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Drugstore Cowboy said:


> I thought as I read Joe's post that his theory and mine were very similar -
> And Harry's prototype confirms it.
> Harry/Joe --
> I am NOT being critical -- it is probably something I am missing --
> ...


As shown, the stock is bolted to the disc.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Well guys, it's reached the high stage of development when the next post will probably be a member with a CNC set-up! But let's face it, hasn't it been a fun thread and isn't that what makes this forum different to others?


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

template tom said:


> Joe
> [*COLOR=Navy]This was an extension to what Harry had submitted have a look at the cutter he had in place (No bearing) to get in the way. therefore there was no further reduction in the size of the wheel.[/COLOR]*
> 
> Tom



*OH...*


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"OH..."

Please explain Joe, is this some sort of Americanism?


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

There you go again Joe Shouting at me I have asked you in the past to refrain. I also would like to know Joe what you mean by Oh!
Tom


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

This is a great thread 

It's nice to see so many get in on this one..  I Like it  

I wish others would jump in and in put on this simple router job..two heads are alway better than one so they say...and that's what a FORUM is all about I think...

It would also be nice to see others fire up the router and give it a shot/Go 



===========


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

template tom said:


> . . . I also would like to know Joe what you mean by Oh!
> Tom


I can't speak for Joe -- but as a *general answer* -- 
Yes - that is a common thing to say here -- I always figured it was universal - but guess not.

It is normally *not at all negative* --- it is an expression of surprise and realization --
As in --- "Oh, really, I never thought of that." or "Oh, now I see."
When we are really surprised that we didn't catch something obvious -- we shorten those to --- OH!!
often accompanied by a nod of the head or slapping our forehead. 
- and yes -- sometimes we do say it emphatically.
But we are not shouting at anyone but ourselves --

Now -- in fairness--- If it is voiced as a question --- it can be short for
"Oh, really?" Questioning the accuracy of a statement.

Since Joe said --- OH. . . . and not OH????
My first impression was that he meant it the first way.
Only he could say for sure ---

But those are the two most common connotations.
Hope that helps until Joe wakes up and can speak for himself


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

You are in to computers like I am and you know ,, when someone types in Uppercase they are Shouting and if they make the text 10 times bigger than the norm they are for sure Shouting, I think that's what Tom was saying not the word so much but the way he said it..sometimes that can get you a black eye ..not the word but the way you say the word..  


But that's just my 2 cents 


=====


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Cowboy
> 
> You are in to computers like I am and you know ,, when someone types in Uppercase they are Shouting . . .
> 
> ...


Yep --
Been chatting and posting since before the Internet - back in the BBS days.
And yes -- all caps are a generally accepted 'code' for shouting.

My suggestion wasn't that Joe wasn't shouting -- but that he was shouting at himself. 
When I suddenly realize something that should have been obvious to me all along -- I have been known to say OH!!!!!!! rather loudly -
- but I wasnt shouting *at* the person who explained it to me -
- but rather at myself for being so dense.

That is one of the great weaknesses of text communication like this --
You can't hear the vocal inflection or see the facial expression -- and those usually convey a lot more about the meaning than the words alone -- 

Think of the simple word -- "Hey"
Spoken one way it is a cheerful greeting
Another and it is a warning to someone about be in danger
Yet another -- and it means 'What the *&*$% are you doing - and stop it'

and yes -- when you try to use things like font size or color etc to convey the emotion -- that just further adds to the confusion. 

Anyway -- I couldn't begin to read Joe's mind -- was just suggesting - given the most common meaning of the 'word' that there was a good chance he was being complimentary rather than negative.

Wow this thread has taken some interesting turns ---


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

And thank you for dropping the BOLD and over size text in this reply  

============


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Cowboy
> And thank you for dropping the BOLD and over size text in this reply
> ============


You are welcome -- but don't be surprised if you see them again.
I write the way I talk. If there are words that I would speak with emphasis when spoken -- you will see them in boldface - in my writing.

It just happened that there was only one word in that reply that would have been spoken that way.

If we want to debate chat etiquette
(hint -- I don't  ) 
maybe that should be another thread.  

I wasn't trying to start anything ---- I was just answering a question about the meaning of a word since words are kinda my thing.
And that's my last .02 on that subject -- gotta go earn my milk and cookies.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Drugstore Cowboy said:


> You are welcome -- but don't be surprised if you see them again.
> I write the way I talk. If there are words that I would speak with emphasis when spoken -- you will see them in boldface - in my writing.
> 
> It just happened that there was only one word in that reply that would have been spoken that way.
> ...



Cowboy,

I finally woke up and am quite surprised how this thread has taken an Off Topic turn because of the word "OH"!

I think you expressed the use of, and my use of, the word OH very well.

The only reason for making it bold and large (to indicate, yes, YELLING), is because my browser displayed the reply to my simple/direct question as yelling at me! So, I merely thought it was quite in place. And, on top of that, I didn't get a reply that I could really fully understand, so I just gave up and replied with "OH" because I wanted to drop the whole thing and let that be the end of it. But, the chips are still positioned as before.

Thank you, cowboy, for doing such a wonderful job of explaining the word Oh... Yes, I thought everyone knew what that simple word meant... Oh yes I did!

I will not comment anymore on this subject, in an effort to let the thread get back to Normal Topic. Nuff said...

Joe


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mr. Lyddon, I certainly know what people normally mean when they exclaim "OH", BUT, I think most of us here know that you have a sort of sub-language which gives totally different meaning to quite ordinary words. Enough of this, there is sawdust to make.


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