# Crosscutting wide, Thick Hard Maple



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I've read of people building workbench tops that are 3" thick x 30-36" wide by ~8' long from hard maple. I figure they would likely be laminated in thirds (10-12" wide, for planing) and then joined for final width. I'm assuming they would find a cabinet shop with a large sander to bring them to final flatness.

What would be the best way to cut the ends square? I'm guessing it would be a 3hp min cabinet saw (for power and mass) and a ???cross-cut sled??? made from ??3/4" ply??, with ??48" HDPE runners??. The table top would weigh ~300 lbs, heavy but not un-doable with 3 or 4 helpers. It still seems like a lot of work. Is there a better way?


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I would use a circular saw and a guide.


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

AxlMyk said:


> I would use a circular saw and a guide.


I'll 2nd Mike


----------



## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> I've read of people building workbench tops that are 3" thick x 30-36" wide by ~8' long from hard maple. I figure they would likely be laminated in thirds (10-12" wide, for planing) and then joined for final width. I'm assuming they would find a cabinet shop with a large sander to bring them to final flatness.
> 
> What would be the best way to cut the ends square? I'm guessing it would be a 3hp min cabinet saw (for power and mass) and a ???cross-cut sled??? made from ??3/4" ply??, with ??48" HDPE runners??. The table top would weigh ~300 lbs, heavy but not un-doable with 3 or 4 helpers. It still seems like a lot of work. Is there a better way?


The cabinet shop you would use to sand it would also cut it square:yes4:


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Most power hand saws/circular saw will not cut the 3" thick stock in one pass, from one side,,let the lumber yard/mill/wood shop cut it for you 

=====


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Most power hand saws/circular saw will not cut the 3" thick stock in one pass, from one side,,let the lumber yard/mill/wood shop cut it for you
> 
> =====


This is why I love both of my worm drive circ. saws. They are the only circ. saw that will have that kind of power to take on such a task. 

Jim, if cost is a matter, sanding it and, cutting it square isn't that difficult either. Hint, hand scraper, if you've ever seen any shows of "Wood Works", you'll see David J. Marks use this method. 

Or.... if you can find Norm Abrams video called, "workbench". It's completely made of ply and 2by material. If you'd like I could scan a copy of the plans with his material list and email it to you. It could give you some other ideas.


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

DeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeAMmmmn Jim.. 

300 lps.. a man after my own heart *L*..now thats a heafty benchtop. Once you have the whole thing assembled, How bout routing the ends square to the sides? An 1 1/2" bottom bearing flush cut with guide for the top pass and then a 2" top bearing for the bottom cut' What ever little there may be left in
the middle just sand down. 

BTW.. if your not familiar with hand scrappers, they are fantastic!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ken

I have a worm drive but it still comes down to the diam.of the blade,, worm drive has the power BUT..3 1/4" deep in one true pass in hardwood .. hummmm...


========



Hamlin said:


> This is why I love both of my worm drive circ. saws. They are the only circ. saw that will have that kind of power to take on such a task.
> 
> Jim, if cost is a matter, sanding it and, cutting it square isn't that difficult either. Hint, hand scraper, if you've ever seen any shows of "Wood Works", you'll see David J. Marks use this method.
> 
> Or.... if you can find Norm Abrams video called, "workbench". It's completely made of ply and 2by material. If you'd like I could scan a copy of the plans with his material list and email it to you. It could give you some other ideas.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Jim

Once you have it cut off clamp a board down in place and use the bit below to clean up the cut..

1 pc 1/2" SH 3" Extra Long Flush Trim Router Bit - eBay (item 130343385150 end time Nov-16-09 10:51:14 PST)


==========


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

you've read of people........ Hmmmmmmmmmmm says I...

You figure they would...... double HmmmmmmHmmmmmmmmm says I..

You assume they woudl....... triple HmmmmmHmmmmHmmmmm says I...

me thinks you're up to no good!!!!! *S*


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Bj,

I'm not disagreeing with you here. I would like to point out something though. "Thin kerf" blades are available for circ. saw too ya know.  And uh, yes, I do know that it will work for hard wood too. (You do remember that wood sample I sent ya awhile back?) It just takes a lil' patience to make this particular type of cut. Even if you had to take it in multiple passes, so long as a straight edge is used, and fine grit Sp used on the final cut & finished side/end of the work piece... it will come out perfect. Just like applying sp to both sides of a TS blade.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Well Ken, I would be *hoping* a 5hp Uni would have the stump-pulling power necessary to spin the blade. I'd love to give her a workout.. she seems bored with the 8/4 hard maple I throw at her. <g>

In any event it won't get to the top of my project list before spring. I've got roo many more urgent projects on my plate. I am one that rarely starts something without thinking and contemplating it for quite a while. Must be the engineer in me... :haha::haha:



Hamlin said:


> This is why I love both of my worm drive circ. saws. They are the only circ. saw that will have that kind of power to take on such a task.
> 
> Jim, if cost is a matter, sanding it and, cutting it square isn't that difficult either. Hint, hand scraper, if you've ever seen any shows of "Wood Works", you'll see David J. Marks use this method.
> 
> Or.... if you can find Norm Abrams video called, "workbench". It's completely made of ply and 2by material. If you'd like I could scan a copy of the plans with his material list and email it to you. It could give you some other ideas.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Most power hand saws/circular saw will not cut the 3" thick stock in one pass, from one side,,let the lumber yard/mill/wood shop cut it for you
> 
> =====


Is there any reason other than cutting power? I'd figure one would build a temporary infeed/outfeed table to support the sled. Is there a reason why using the abovementioned TS would be unsafe or unwise?


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> BTW.. if your not familiar with hand scrappers, they are fantastic!


I bought some scrapers but haven't used them in a long time.. I'll have to get them out and get reacquainted with them!!


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> you've read of people........ Hmmmmmmmmmmm says I...
> 
> You figure they would...... double HmmmmmmHmmmmmmmmm says I..
> 
> ...


me thinks you know me too well, thats what me thinks.. *S*


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> HI Jim
> 
> Once you have it cut off clamp a board down in place and use the bit below to clean up the cut..
> 
> ...


That's a great idea, BJ... it'd make a nice smooth end in case one wanted to mount a Veritas twin-screw as an end vise. I've got one of those, in a box, in my garage. I bought it in the late 90's and then moved south. I'm just getting back to working with wood and figure the end of a workbench would be a good place to store it.

I never thought I'd use that long of a bit but, with the cutting depth sufficiently restrained, it'd be a good fit.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This Jim is how I cut thick rock hard Jarrah boards on my 10" radial arm saw.
It's imperative that the board be securely clamped to the table and the saw gripped firmly so that the operator has complete control over the forward movement of the saw and advance the saw slowly. The small piece of Jarrah which is an off cut from an earlier project was cut this way.
I have on previous occasions, mentioned that, in my usual humble opinion, all woodworkers should aim their sights on a radial arm saw, one's imagination seems to be the limiting factor regarding what can be achieved with such a tool, unlike skies (which I wouldn't be without), which are only used occasionally, the RAS would probably be used on every one of my projects.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

But it's 300 lbs. and 3" thick x 30-36" wide by ~8' long from hard maple.
But now that I think about it I have seen 10" and 12" power hand saws in the rental store made to cut big timbers.. (railroad ties,etc.) some are 220 volts..so they draw the amps.they need..
=========


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Howdy...

While surfing through Peachtree, I found almost* exactly what I was hoping someone would make: Miter slot tee-bar with the retainers for the miter slot's tee bottom. Looks like a big step up in safety, and for only $12.99 per 32" piece or $15.99 per 48" piece. For that price and the safety it provides, it seems like a no-brainer for me.

* Almost only because it isn't a "complete" metal bar with incra "slop adjusters".


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

BJ, why would anyone want to make a bench top 3" thick and 30" wide and risk cupping with changes in the weather. Personally I would use boards, 3" if you like and run a couple of splines the full length. 8' lengths would be no problem using roller stands at each side of the RA saw table. Another advantage of this method is ease of handling.
To conclude, I must tell you that my quite substantial main bench top is a second hand solid core door, cheap,substantial and easy to handle.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

My work bench is 4" thick  and about 34" wide and about 8ft long and it very stable, no cupping and it's about 20 years old if not more..I could park my truck on it If I had a way to get it on it..

T10157 Heavy-Duty Oak Workbench with Steel Legs
Grizzly.com® -- Online Catalog
Grizzly.com® -- Online Catalog

Grizzly.com® -- Online Catalog

Grizzly.com® -- Online Catalog

=======




harrysin said:


> BJ, why would anyone want to make a bench top 3" thick and 30" wide and risk cupping with changes in the weather. Personally I would use boards, 3" if you like and run a couple of splines the full length. 8' lengths would be no problem using roller stands at each side of the RA saw table. Another advantage of this method is ease of handling.
> To conclude, I must tell you that my quite substantial main bench top is a second hand solid core door, cheap,substantial and easy to handle.


----------



## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I use a 10" Milwaukee on 4X4s and 6X6s all the time. My 81/4" Bocsh does close to 2 3/4" in one pass. The only time any of them have a problem with material 5thin kerf or not is when the grain is mental and clamps the blade or I flake out and don't hold a straight line, (most often do to bad milling on the stock)

Most people not accustomed to circs wobble the saw left and right, lose the cut off line and try to force it back instead of shutting down, backing off and restarting from a good cut.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

By the sound of it Bj you built it specifically to park your truck on!


----------

