# High Strength Hot Melt Glue Sticks



## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

I need to do a quick fix to glue a toilet base to the tile floor. It's the only toilet in the house and it has a bit of a wobble and I want to take care of it before the wax seal gets broken. I know Crazy Glue will set fast but I need something a little thicker in case there are gaps in the fit. I was thinking that a hot melt glue would set up really fast...are there any high strength glue sticks? Any other suggestions? I don't want to remove the toilet and 'do it right' until absolutely necessary.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

do it right...

super clean the bases contact to the floor area..
shim the toilet level and to stop the wobble...
seal the exterior rim of the base base to the floor w/ siliconized latex caulk... 
tool to perfection...
no need to remove the toilet...

.
*DANCO Plastic Toilet Shims 4-Pack-88523 - The Home Depot
http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-11-2...lic-Latex-Caulk-Plus-Silicone-18428/202734234*
or...
*http://www.homedepot.com/p/DAP-Dynaflex-230-10-1-oz-Premium-Indoor-Outdoor-Sealant-18275/100035980*


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> do it right...
> 
> super clean the bases contact to the floor area..
> shim the toilet level and to stop the wobble...
> ...


Sounds good to me. Thank You!!! I had to replace the tank bolts a couple of weeks ago and this toilet is not fun to work on.....it's in an old kitchen pantry and pretty tight between the sink vanity and wall.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

What Stick said...except I'd use _pure_ Silicone. The stuff the glaziers use.
Basically you're sealing glass to glass (that's what pottery glaze is).
The bond will not break.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> What Stick said...except I'd use _pure_ Silicone. The stuff the glaziers use.
> Basically you're sealing glass to glass (that's what pottery glaze is).
> The bond will not break.


think long term...
the bond won't break if the toilet is properly shimmed and snugged down using the better grade Dynaflex...
come time, if you ever have to, to pull the basin it will be the better deal and will clean up nicely..
pure sillycone is a bear to remove/cut loose and when you reset/re-caulk the bowl nothing is going to stick to the sillycone film that you couldn't remove...
sillycone is a one way trip that presents/makes/causes more problems/issues than it fixes...
it will stick so well to the floor that when you pull the toilet it could pull up the tile or tear/delayer any composite flooring... who wants to repair/replace a floor because of the caulk...
sillycone is a very poor choice in this application...

*VOE...*


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

That's why they invented razor blades.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> That's why they invented razor blades.


still leaves a bullet proof no stick film behind...
and you accidentally cut the composite flooring or don't cut all the way through the sillycone...

*VOE...*


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

why invite/temp/risk fate...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Like Stick said, shim it. You don't want to use anything you can't separate easily when the time comes. I also recommend taking the wax ring and throw it in the garbage or use it in the shop as someone suggested a while back for lubing screws to make them easier to drive. Buy a higher tech unit (about $15) to seal with. Some are reusable, if you had to replace flooring for example, and there is absolutely no way that some of them can leak. The best one I've seen made a surface seal against the pipe flange and also had a rubber nipple that went down the inside of the pipe about 2 inches or so and sealed against the wall of the pipe. It was impossible for that setup to leak unless the rubber disintegrated over time.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Like Stick said, shim it. You don't want to use anything you can't separate easily when the time comes. I also recommend taking the wax ring and throw it in the garbage or use it in the shop as someone suggested a while back for lubing screws to make them easier to drive. Buy a higher tech unit (about $15) to seal with. Some are reusable, if you had to replace flooring for example, and there is absolutely no way that some of them can leak. The best one I've seen made a surface seal against the pipe flange and also had a rubber nipple that went down the inside of the pipe about 2 inches or so and sealed against the wall of the pipe. It was impossible for that setup to leak unless the rubber disintegrated over time.


Wow, sounds great, never heard of that one before.
Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> 1... wax ring and throw it in the garbage
> 2... or use it in the shop as someone suggested a while back for lubing screws to make them easier to drive.
> 3... Buy a higher tech unit (about $15) to seal with. Some are reusable, if you had to replace flooring for example, and there is absolutely no way that some of them can leak.


1... yes... throw it away...
2... *NO!!!* those ''wax rings'' are not wax..
and why would you want all that contamination on your project that you are stuck w/.....
w/ the proper pilot hole.. why the lube...
toilet rings are made from a combination of petrolatum and proprietary ingredients that vary among manufacturers. The wax rings made by Hercules Chemical in New Jersey are typical of the way that the manufacturing process works. The petrolatum is shipped into the factory and stored in liquid form at 170 degrees Fahrenheit until it is needed. The petrolatum is then mixed with other chemicals that keep it solidified at room temperature and then poured into aluminum molds coated with a soap compound.....
why invite/temp/risk fate... 
3... https://www.fernco.com/plumbing/wax-free-toilet-seal

4... the OP doesn't want to pull the toilet...


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Like Stick said, shim it. You don't want to use anything you can't separate easily when the time comes. I also recommend taking the wax ring and throw it in the garbage or use it in the shop as someone suggested a while back for lubing screws to make them easier to drive. Buy a higher tech unit (about $15) to seal with. Some are reusable, if you had to replace flooring for example, and there is absolutely no way that some of them can leak. The best one I've seen made a surface seal against the pipe flange and also had a rubber nipple that went down the inside of the pipe about 2 inches or so and sealed against the wall of the pipe. It was impossible for that setup to leak unless the rubber disintegrated over time.


I've seen a product like you describe in a local hardware store. Not sure if it is the higher tech product. Do you have a brand name for this deluxe model? I've done the wax ring thing and it's not a lot of fun and leaves you wondering if you did it right. For some reason most of the pros go for the tried and true wax rings.

I shimmed it this morning and applied a waterproof adhesive caulk. Waterproof component was probably a waste of time....if the toilet leaks waterproof or not ain't gonna matter. Hope this outlasts me....toilet is in a really tight space. A couple of weeks ago when I redid the tank hold-down bolts and tank seal I had a real good time when I had to cut one of the bolts with a recip saw. I'm slender....wonder how the big guys do it?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

JIMMIEM said:


> I've seen a product like you describe in a local hardware store. Not sure if it is the higher tech product. Do you have a brand name for this deluxe model? I've done the wax ring thing and it's not a lot of fun and leaves you wondering if you did it right. For some reason most of the pros go for the tried and true wax rings.
> 
> I shimmed it this morning and applied a waterproof adhesive caulk. Waterproof component was probably a waste of time....if the toilet leaks waterproof or not ain't gonna matter. Hope this outlasts me....toilet is in a really tight space. A couple of weeks ago when I redid the tank hold-down bolts and tank seal I had a real good time when I had to cut one of the bolts with a recip saw. I'm slender....wonder how the big guys do it?


I hate..Hate..hate..hate.
..hate ..to work on plumbing. A 10 minute job will take all day plus a dozen trips to the hardware store and back, not to mention the mess and water clean up afterwards.
Herb
Herb


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> 1... yes... throw it away...
> 2... *NO!!!* those ''wax rings'' are not wax..
> and why would you want all that contamination on your project that you are stuck w/.....
> w/ the proper pilot hole.. why the lube...
> ...


On the subject of screw lubricants I think I posted the question a while back. Anyway, based on your comments I use straight paraffin wax to lube screws. I saw a tip where somebody melted the paraffin and poured the liquid into empty plastic stick (no pun intended) deodorant containers. I gave it a try....melted the paraffin in a double boiler. Need to perfect the process because the liquefied paraffin sticks to the sides of the container and it's difficult to turn the container roller to raise the wax. But the containers do get a lot of curious stares and questions.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Herb Stoops said:


> I hate..Hate..hate..hate.
> ..hate ..to work on plumbing. A 10 minute job will take all day plus a dozen trips to the hardware store and back, not to mention the mess and water clean up afterwards.
> Herb
> Herb


You are not alone. Maybe that is why plumbers charge a lot and nobody complains too much about the cost.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JIMMIEM said:


> 1... For some reason most of the pros go for the tried and true wax rings.
> 
> 2... I'm slender....wonder how the big guys do it?


1... cost...
2... drill out the head w/ a bit larger in dia than the bolt...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JIMMIEM said:


> On the subject of screw lubricants I think I posted the question a while back. Anyway, based on your comments I use straight paraffin wax to lube screws. I saw a tip where somebody melted the paraffin and poured the liquid into empty plastic stick (no pun intended) deodorant containers. I gave it a try....melted the paraffin in a double boiler. Need to perfect the process because the liquefied paraffin sticks to the sides of the container and it's difficult to turn the container roller to raise the wax. But the containers do get a lot of curious stares and questions.


yur heating the wax to hot...


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> 1... cost...
> 2... drill out the head w/ a bit larger in dia than the bolt...


The bolt heads is inside the tank. I'm afraid I'd damage the tank.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> yur heating the wax to hot...


Probably shouldn't liquefy it? Just warm enough to be soft and workable?


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> 1... cost...
> 2... drill out the head w/ a bit larger in dia than the bolt...


Customer usually pays the cost?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JIMMIEM said:


> The bolt heads is inside the tank. I'm afraid I'd damage the tank.


the bolt is brass... or brass alloy...
the head sits on a grommet...
drill straight down through the head to the shank till the head will separate from the shank...
use a pilot point bit... works really slick... (not to be confused w/ a brad point)
lot safer w/ less risk of breakage than a sawzall or grinder...


.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JIMMIEM said:


> Probably shouldn't liquefy it? Just warm enough to be soft and workable?


yes....


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JIMMIEM said:


> Customer usually pays the cost?


more margin for the plumber...
wholesale a plain wax ring is 80/90¢ ... 50¢ more or so for one w/ a flange...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It would be something like this one: https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.better-than-wax-toilet-seal.1000838603.html

I bought one at Home Hardware (Canadian chain) in Peace River, Alberta and then tried to find the same one at the Home Hardware in Vernon, BC and couldn't find exactly the same one but the one I did find is similar to the HD one in the link. Same principle anyway. If the toilet starts to rock or move at all when you sit or get up then a wax ring is guaranteed to leak. You could have movement with one of these and it still won't leak.

I only suggested using the wax ring for screws if someone felt compelled to use it for something instead of just throwing it out. I replaced the bathroom floor at the rental house last summer that was my in-laws place. The sub floor had been poorly repaired and the FIL had used wax rings for a toilet that wasn't sitting rigid enough. He knew he had a problem because I found a spare ring in his spare parts. He just didn't bother to tell me about it. I fixed the floor and used one of the rubber ones for the repair.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> the bolt is brass... or brass alloy...
> the head sits on a grommet...
> drill straight down through the head to the shank till the head will separate from the shank...
> use a pilot point bit... works really slick... (not to be confused w/ a brad point)
> ...


These bolt heads sat right on the rubber washers. I made the recip saw cut in the area between the tank and the bowl.....took 10 seconds.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JIMMIEM said:


> These bolt heads sat right on the rubber washers. I made the recip saw cut in the area between the tank and the bowl.....took 10 seconds.


you were fortunate...
porcelain hates vibration and doesn't play nice w/ it... if there was a flaw in the porcelain the vibration would have found it...


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> you were fortunate...
> porcelain hates vibration and doesn't play nice w/ it... if there was a flaw in the porcelain the vibration would have found it...


I saw some youtube videos where the bolts were cut with a hack saw. I started cutting the bolt with a hacksaw but it was slow going. I was going to try an oscillating multi tool but the blade wouldn't reach the bolt. I didn't realize the vibration from the recip saw might do damage to the porcelain. My recip doesn't have the orbital feature so not much more vibration than a jig saw. My lucky day.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JIMMIEM said:


> My lucky day.


yup...


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> yup...


Leaning over a toilet....some luck..


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JIMMIEM said:


> Leaning over a toilet....some luck..


you could have fallen in....


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## scottgrove (Sep 4, 2016)

If it is wobbly, the filler must set hard.
I use pennies as shims, then autobody putty. I little sticky but will set up in 5 minutes.
The pennies are the trick, for other caulking too.
good luck


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

scottgrove said:


> If it is wobbly, the filler must set hard.
> I use pennies as shims, then autobody putty. I little sticky but will set up in 5 minutes.
> The pennies are the trick, for other caulking too.
> good luck


I bought some toilet shims....cost lots of pennies for a few pieces of plastic. It has set up and is firm.


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

I've fixed many a rocking toilet with Plaster of Paris. After mixing, I use a plastic scraper to force it in under the toilet. Clean around the bowl and floor with a damp rag (not to wet) to make it look nice. Sets hard and fast and looks good. Very cheap. No problems when removing the toilet at a later date.


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