# Level Garage floor



## lablover (May 15, 2007)

I now have the complete 2 car garage for my shop. Deal is I have to clean off the wifes car in the winter 

Anyway, I hate that the concrete floor slopes down towards the garage door. I know this is needed for water etc but I want to make it level. Cement is not an option. I'd like to install plywood to make it easier on the feet and back.

What would be a good way to level it? I was thinking press treated sleepers and shimmed to make them level? Glues down with const adhesive?

Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks guys

Joe


----------



## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

Bump.


----------



## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Is your floor poured inside the walls, or was the slab poured and then the garage built on top of it? If the garage was built first, and then the floor poured, you can actually level the floor by raising the low point. Not sure of the exact science behind it, but several contractors here drill holes in the concrete and pump concreted underneath it to raise the floor. Barring that, then your method should work just fine. 

Of course, the raising won't do you any good if the floor was poured that way, but it does work well for slabs that have sunk.

Brian


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Lablover

I know this can be a PIA but this could be and will be a expensive job 
It maybe cheaper to add on a side shop to the garage and just let the floor be.
3 walls and a roof will be cheaper than a floor workover....if you have the room on the side of the garage....or on the back side of the garage...it just takes some 2 x 4 x 8ft. to make the frame and a bit of roof work and you will have a wood shop and your wife will have a garage this winter...




===========




lablover said:


> I now have the complete 2 car garage for my shop. Deal is I have to clean off the wifes car in the winter
> 
> Anyway, I hate that the concrete floor slopes down towards the garage door. I know this is needed for water etc but I want to make it level. Cement is not an option. I'd like to install plywood to make it easier on the feet and back.
> 
> ...


----------



## lablover (May 15, 2007)

I wish I had the room to add on. No can do.

The garage is attached to the house and was built after the slab was poured. I;m going to price it out just to see. The bigest hurdle will makin it level.

We will see

Joe


----------



## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

You said the garage is yours, so do you have to move your machines much anymore? If you can leave them stationary, then level the machines out only. A lot of them have means to be made level. If you have to move them a lot, shim them on the mobile bases, and then lay out marks on the floor where you use them. This will make it easier to get them back level should you have to move them to bring Momma's car inside.


----------



## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

lablover said:


> . . . Cement is not an option. . . .


That's a shame - 
because the simplest thing to do -- assuming you want it permanently level -- would be to put a dam across the front of the garage (just behind the door if you didnt want to have to make adjustments to it) then pour either self leveling compound - as the name implies - it goes on thin enough that it seeks its own level.
Or if you didnt mind doing a little minor trowel work -- sand topping mix is great for smooting off and leveling up to 2".

I definitely AGREE with you on the foot and back issues that cement aggrivates -- having recently poured a cement floor in my garage/shed/shop. It was formerly dirt (try sweeping up sawdust off THAT).


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Because it's woodworking shop you want it does'nt need to be a slab it can be a deck type add on...  by removing a window in the garage you will have a door way to the shop from the garage....

===========



lablover said:


> I wish I had the room to add on. No can do.
> 
> The garage is attached to the house and was built after the slab was poured. I;m going to price it out just to see. The bigest hurdle will makin it level.
> 
> ...


----------



## lablover (May 15, 2007)

Did some measuring this morning and it slopes 4.5 inches in 20 ft. Wow..Darn tools want to scoot out the door down the driveway. I was thinking of cutting each 2x4 and a few 2x6's each one..ughhhhh..But then again, I dont see any reason each one has to touch the cement. I could frame it like a house would be (floor that is) the joists just float over a certain width (like over your basement) This would save me from having to cut each joist. I think!!!..No wait..I'd still have to cut each one because they would hit the floor...Aghhhhhhh

Whats a good way to secure 2x4's and 2x6's to cement???

Joe


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Joe

That's a big drop WOW,,,,if it's going to be your shop just put in a wood floor, rib the joists board and glue them down to the slab then put down the sub floor....

========


----------



## lablover (May 15, 2007)

rib the joists board ???

Not sure what that means??


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

When you put a wood floor on top of a slab the joists boards need to be undersize that's to say some must be 1 " tall and some need to be 4" tall then the sub plywood base is nailed to them,,, then a floor toping is put on the plywood....

============




lablover said:


> rib the joists board ???
> 
> Not sure what that means??


----------



## lablover (May 15, 2007)

Ok Cool..Thats what I was going to do....Heading to the borg to get some studs 

Bob..You are the man!!!!

Joe


----------



## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Bob,

My mind had the ribs going the other direction... wedged... 

They would not have a tendancy to slip over & move...

Each board cut would create two ribs...

Just the way my brain works (doesn't work) I guess.

Just a thought...

Good luck Joe... I think you're on the right track... hope so, anyway.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

True, but most slabs are not true that's to say one side maybe out of wack just by a bit....or a high point in the center, it's always a long shot in the dark and must be done with strings to get the floor just right..

One can rip the wedge the long way for the outside wall part of the floor then nail into them to get the plumb with the string ....and cut and rip to fit.
the bigger it gets the harder it gets...but a standard 24 ft. x 24ft should be duck soup....the hard part if the small door that opens to the inside of the garage like most do....it takes a reframe most of the time...unless it a step down type from the house...like some are....6" drop or more...to the slab...






Joe Lyddon said:


> Bob,
> 
> My mind had the ribs going the other direction... wedged...
> 
> ...


----------



## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

That is a HECK of a drop --
I withdraw my comment about cement being easiest -- with that much drop you woud be all but pouring a whole new slab.

You are definitely on the right track -- your biggest challenge will be cutting each 'joist' exactly the right thickness to keep the floor level but piece of twine and a line level will help solve that.
I leveled a badly sunken kitchen floor a few years ago using pretty much that same technique -- and you have the advantage of a solid base.

Good luck - would love to see process pics when you are done.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The studs should be run along the angle, not across it. Start by placing a 2x4 against the wall. Set a 2nd 2x4 next to it and have somebody hold the low end up so it is level. Place a mark on the wall at the height of the level 2x4. Run a pencil along the top of the first 2x4 and it will mark exactly what you need to level the floor. Trim the 2x4 on the line and place the wedge against the wall. Next, place a brad or tack in the wall at your mark. Run a string across the opening so it is level and tack in place. Now move over 16" from the first wedge and repeat the 2 board process using the string to reference the "held" 2x4 top edge. This ensures that the floor will be level in spite of any change in the cement. This is Tom Silva's method from This Old House.


----------



## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Mike said:


> The studs should be run along the angle, not across it. Start by placing a 2x4 against the wall. Set a 2nd 2x4 next to it and have somebody hold the low end up so it is level. Place a mark on the wall at the height of the level 2x4. Run a pencil along the top of the first 2x4 and it will mark exactly what you need to level the floor. Trim the 2x4 on the line and place the wedge against the wall. Next, place a brad or tack in the wall at your mark. Run a string across the opening so it is level and tack in place. Now move over 16" from the first wedge and repeat the 2 board process using the string to reference the "held" 2x4 top edge. This ensures that the floor will be level in spite of any change in the cement. This is Tom Silva's method from This Old House.


Mike,

Thank you for confirming that my brain does work part of the time...  
... and that was such an easy way to do the job! 

Thanks again!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

That's alot of ripping he will need to do if he needs to start at 1" at on end and needs to end up on the end at 5" lift ....that can be a hard job with a hand powered saw, if it did it the other way he can rip it on the table saw, by using 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 stock and end up with the same thing with less scrap...
and with less work...  need to think outside the box on this one 

It work great for the butt to butt joints on the plywood (something to nail/screw to)
and a bit more support....

---------------
"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions." 
MIKE
Senior Moderator


===========







Mike said:


> The studs should be run along the angle, not across it. Start by placing a 2x4 against the wall. Set a 2nd 2x4 next to it and have somebody hold the low end up so it is level. Place a mark on the wall at the height of the level 2x4. Run a pencil along the top of the first 2x4 and it will mark exactly what you need to level the floor. Trim the 2x4 on the line and place the wedge against the wall. Next, place a brad or tack in the wall at your mark. Run a string across the opening so it is level and tack in place. Now move over 16" from the first wedge and repeat the 2 board process using the string to reference the "held" 2x4 top edge. This ensures that the floor will be level in spite of any change in the cement. This is Tom Silva's method from This Old House.


----------



## lablover (May 15, 2007)

Guys

Cant tell ya how much I appreciate the help. Spoke to Dad and he said I was nuts for even trying. Too much slope, loose headroom etc.

He recomended what KP did. Think I may go that route. To be honest, todays heat just put me in (NON MOTIVATED) mode. I think I will decide where to put the tools and make a small level base for them. Heck, my workbench is already built to adjust for the slope..Why mess with it.

I will keep these tips handy so come winter time..I may jump into it.

Again, thanks a ton for all the help

BTW..it's about 100 deg here today..aghhhhhhhhhh

Joe


----------



## lablover (May 15, 2007)

It's amazing what time on your hands does to your brain. I still cant get this floor out of my head. Told myself to wait but it driving me nuts.

The pain in the butt part would be to cut each joist etc etc etc. Confession time. I tried a few 2x6's and they did not fair well. So..Being hot and tired I figured scratch the floor idea.

Now thinking again(SAVE ME) Could 2x4's layed on ther sides be good enough? I have about 10 million bricks left over from the house build and figured why could I not use them to put under the layed flat 2x4's to shim up the diff? The reason I was thinking laying on sides is it saves me tons of height on the low end and I would not have to cut a single jois!

I saw a shed built where they used concrete blocks on each corner, then lains 2x8 I think to make a frame..Then put the joists in the frame.

I'm nuts..I know


----------



## lablover (May 15, 2007)

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/home_improvement/1276536.html?page=2

Like this


----------



## lablover (May 15, 2007)

Or..I could just use furring strips and lay plywood don and forget about the slope!!

hmmmmmmm


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

lablover said:


> Or..I could just use furring strips and lay plywood don and forget about the slope!!


And have your machinery roll to the door?


----------



## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

lablover said:


> Or..I could just use furring strips and lay plywood don and forget about the slope!!
> 
> hmmmmmmm



Hey Joe,

I know about your dilema... the same thing happens to me...

In starting out, I have a clear simple picture of what I want in my head...

But, as soon as I start drawing the designs, "Oh, I could do this..." ... "That would be nice...", and on & on...

Next thing you know it's so complex, I don't feel like doing it!!   

In this case, I think Mike, the Sr. Moderator, hit the nail on the head... perfectly!

Good Luck!


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

lablover said:


> Spoke to Dad and he said I was nuts for even trying. Too much slope, loose headroom etc.


I am with pops on this one Joe  

Father knows best! :sold: 

Corey


----------



## Gonecrazytoday (Jul 9, 2007)

Thats what I would do. I am considering a wood floor when I go to build my own shop. I have cement/concrete floors now and its a killer. I have nerve damage in my left foot from when I shattered my ankle. Even with pads on the floor its hard on me. I have a 20x36 garage for a shop. The one thing I do like about this concrete floor is I can clean it with a dust mop.
Gonecrazytoday,


lablover said:


> I now have the complete 2 car garage for my shop. Deal is I have to clean off the wifes car in the winter
> 
> Anyway, I hate that the concrete floor slopes down towards the garage door. I know this is needed for water etc but I want to make it level. Cement is not an option. I'd like to install plywood to make it easier on the feet and back.
> 
> ...


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I simply can't resist the urge to add my two cents worth. Could you not hire a diamond saw, cut all around the slab then:

A......Get a couple of garage type trolley jacks, dig a trench at one end, raise the slab and back-fill as it rises
B......After cutting, break up the slab and pour fresh concrete.

If the latter, sell all you're surplus bricks and put the proceeds towards the cost.


----------



## lablover (May 15, 2007)

Focus on woodworking.......Focus on woodworking........Focus on woodworking.........



Joe


----------

