# Wooden Hinges



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Wooden Hinges made on the router table,,,,

Using 3 bits, 3/8" bead bit, 1 1/8" wide bit, 3/8" wide bit, and the Oak-Park box joint jig.

Still in the hold pattern waiting for the Incra Hinge jig to drill the holes out for the brass hinge pin...
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Push Block for the Oak-Park box jigs
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/3543-deluxe-push-block.html

hingecrafter jig
http://www.woodpeck.com/hingecrafter.html

Oak-Park Spacer Fence Set (1/4", 3/8" & 1/2") 
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--&product=SF1030

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--
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see the link below for more pictures ▼

http://www.routerforums.com/64184-post14.html


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Looks like this might be the cheaper way to go for hinges.  

You should be getting the jig any time now, correct?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

Well I did cancel the order with Rockler (they had it setup to ship on the 18th) and got it on the way from Woodpecker should be on my door step Fri, the 18th... 

Plus a I saved 10.oo bucks buying from WoodPecker but I blew that on a 12" long drill bit.. LOL .. so in away the bit only cost 10.oo bucks... 


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Wow Bj, that looks way cool! Awesome work. Going to build a special box for these  Your making me jealous bud! Just got on today for the first time. Work is crazy busy right now. Thanks for all the pics! Will you mortise these into a box back like a regular hinge?

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Corey

" mortise these into a box "

I think so, I'm going to try it both ways to see how it looks,, trying to come up with a way to make them 1/4" , they show 3/8" small, but maybe I get get in done in the 1/4" size for small boxes (lids) , maybe the double hinge type will get it done,just playing with now...

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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Should be simple enough, I'd think. You only need the 1/4" bull nose. I'm sure you already have it though.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

The 1/4" one is going to be tricky,,,using a 1/4" bull nose, the 1/8" pin is a bit big so it looks like a 1/16" pin may do the trick...I have some stainless steel wire that I'm going to try, but drilling the holes that's the hard part....I have one or two aircraft drill bits (4" long) that may do the job but getting on center ,well that's the hard part...I may need to pick up some drill bushing guides that will fit the jig..

The hinge will only 1/4" thick when it's close,, that make the hinge parts only 1/8" thick, and to drill a 1/16" down the center ,well it's like making clock parts and then keeping the hole true for long 1 1/4" long, well , it may not be worth it.. but I do like a challenge...now and then,,, LOL 


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Hamlin said:


> Should be simple enough, I'd think. You only need the 1/4" bull nose. I'm sure you already have it though.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Bob,
Are you going to use hinge pin wire for the hinge pivot? If so how are you going to terminate the ends to keep them from sliding out? From my experience working in aircraft I know this can be a real bitch unless you have room at the ends to bow them.

The extension bits, I know also from experience that the small sizes you will need would probably be around # 30 or # 40. 

You have tweaked my idea bush from a brain fart into a creative mode. Please keep us advised on your work in this matter..

Thanx,
George II



bobj3 said:


> Hi Ken
> 
> The 1/4" one is going to be tricky,,,using a 1/4" bull nose, the 1/8" pin is a bit big so it looks like a 1/16" pin may do the trick...I have some stainless steel wire that I'm going to try, but drilling the holes that's the hard part....I have one or two aircraft drill bits (4" long) that may do the job but getting on center ,well that's the hard part...I may need to pick up some drill bushing guides that will fit the jig..
> 
> ...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Bob,

I understand that problem. Not sure if this would work. What about 1/4" ID pipe, would only have to do some notching. Would be a pain to do though. But, it is a possibility.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George II

I think I'm going to use THICK super glue to terminate the ends, one small dot should do the trick I think... 
If I cut the hinge right ,I should have one part of the knuckle on both ends that will take on the glue and the end of the pin... 
I use super glue all the time on wood projects and it holds very well ..and sets up in about 5 sec. or less...with the spray.. (AceTone)

The jig comes with a #30 bit (.128 in dia.) that's 6" long and I did order one #30, 12" long also... 

I do have a long #40 bit for the stainless wire that should work..


And I'm looking at it now... great little jig...

"Please keep us advised on your work in this matter" = will do 


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George II said:


> Bob,
> Are you going to use hinge pin wire for the hinge pivot? If so how are you going to terminate the ends to keep them from sliding out? From my experience working in aircraft I know this can be a real bitch unless you have room at the ends to bow them.
> 
> The extension bits, I know also from experience that the small sizes you will need would probably be around # 30 or # 40.
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

Well because the knuckles are only 1/4" O.D. that word be a hard one ,, I think I'm going to take some 3/8" OD brass rod and drill some 1/16" holes in them on the lathe on dead center , that way they will fit the jig and with a 1/16" thick spacer to hold the hinge plate just right it may work...

The drill bushing they are using on the jig are held in place with Allen set screws so I can remove them and place in the smaller ones and move them just a bit to get the 1/4" wide knucles to fit it just right.. I think.. 

Well I off to try the jig out 

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Hamlin said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> I understand that problem. Not sure if this would work. What about 1/4" ID pipe, would only have to do some notching. Would be a pain to do though. But, it is a possibility.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

OK Bob I understand your thought process. My thing was bending the wire as being a real pain in the "roid" area. The glue dop will work but sometymes it will not hold to stainless steel. To help with the sticking ability you might try roughing the stainless area with sand paper to help with adhesion.
Good luck as I know you will do well.
Best Regards.. 






bobj3 said:


> Hi George II
> 
> I think I'm going to use THICK super glue to terminate the ends, one small dot should do the trick I think...
> If I cut the hinge right ,I should have one part of the knuckle on both ends that will take on the glue and the end of the pin...
> ...


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Bj, did the jig come in yet?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nickbee

Yep sure did   

here's some snapshots,, 

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Jewelry BoxDirect
http://www.jewelryboxdirect.com/?gclid=CIWD-IWLgJECFQiaPAodZU-LIA

hinge pins & finials
http://www.hardwaresource.com/searchresults.asp
http://www.hardwaresource.com/Store_ViewProducts.asp?Cat=84
http://www.hardwaresource.com/Store_ViewCatLevel3.asp?Cat=691
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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George II

sanding the pin,,,Will do,,,thanks,, do they make something better than super glue ....? for stainless ..I was thinking about drilling a small hole for a cross pin, but stainless can be a pain to drill,,,I have drill bits bit that I can use in 1/16" wire but it's tricky to drill....my old eyes are not the same when I did it b/4..

At one time I drilled tons of fastners for safety wire & nylock buttons..it's tricky most of the time...they do like to break the bits..and stainless is one of the hard ones to drill ( 18.8 stuff ) 

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George II said:


> OK Bob I understand your thought process. My thing was bending the wire as being a real pain in the "roid" area. The glue dop will work but sometymes it will not hold to stainless steel. To help with the sticking ability you might try roughing the stainless area with sand paper to help with adhesion.
> Good luck as I know you will do well.
> Best Regards..


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Nickbee
> 
> Yep sure did   D:
> 
> ...


Looks great Bj, thanks for sharing! That puppy is in my future :sold:


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Now, I'm jealous. Gonna hafta get one myself.   lol

Just a thought about the stainless wire, they make screws small enough to match 1/8" bit, just cut the wire short, glue in the screws on the end.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Nickbee

It's fun making stuff out of wood that's not the norm 

Wooden hinges are neat and easy to make now that I have made one.. 

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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Very cool Bj!! 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Corey

Most of the time Hinges are like looking at a sore thump sticking out of a nice cabinet/box but this type should make it a be more unique/one of a kind....


Plus it's fun to make   



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challagan said:


> Very cool Bj!!
> 
> Corey


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## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

Looks interesting. Now lets see what they look like installed on a box. Could you possibly make the whole top of the box be half of the hinge?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, how about a hammer blow to the trailing end of the pin to increase it's diameter, then just tap it into the hinge.
You're patience and skill never ceases to amaze and inspire me, oh to be you're age again with guys like you to learn from.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Doug

" Could you possibly make the whole top of the box be half of the hinge?"

I don't see why not, because it's a wooden hinge, the hinge would become the top lid of the box..  or the side of the box with a swing out door...


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DougO said:


> Looks interesting. Now lets see what they look like installed on a box. Could you possibly make the whole top of the box be half of the hinge?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

That could work but it would be tricky,,, the key word would be "TAP" into the hinge knuckles ,,,becuase it's wood,they will not take any taping on the hinge knuckles, the grain of the wood sticking out without any support to speak about and I'm almost sure they would snap off...I did snap off one end of the hinge by just paying with the hinge pin, it must slide in easy, all the way....down the hinge...I may put a SMALL slot in the ends with a Dremel tool ,on the brass pins and then once they are in place take a small screw driver and turn it with 2 screw drivers at one time ,just a bit to increase it's diameter just a little bit to lock it in place...


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harrysin said:


> Bj, how about a hammer blow to the trailing end of the pin to increase it's diameter, then just tap it into the hinge.
> You're patience and skill never ceases to amaze and inspire me, oh to be you're age again with guys like you to learn from.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

For those interested in the jig, I believe Grizzly has it for $59.00usd.

(you can shoot me later for not finding that out sooner BJ).


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Ken 

I broke my own golden rule, always check Grizzly b/4 you buy tools 
Not to bad it only cost me 10.oo bucks for breaking the rule..

http://grizzly.com/products/INCRA-Hingecrafter/T20533

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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

DougO said:


> Looks interesting. Now lets see what they look like installed on a box. Could you possibly make the whole top of the box be half of the hinge?


Damn,, I knew I should have patented my idea (ya right)

Bj Try this out!!!!!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nickbee

I may just try that one 


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Now you're talking Bj. I can't wait to see you do it.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

I'm lookig forward to the results!!!


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Bob, 
Just ordered mine from Woodpeckers. Since I don't have the bull nose bits, I ordered those as well. Can't wait til it arrives.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

That's great , some one told me that Grizzly had them for 59.oo bucks..

http://grizzly.com/products/INCRA-Hingecrafter/T20533

When you get it , post a note and I will tell you how to upgrade it 
By the way the 12" bit is a much better bit than the 6" one that come with it.

Here's a funny one,,I order the 12" bit from Woodpecker and it was on back order , so when the UPS guy dropped it off I looked in the box and all I could see was some 1/8" brass rod 12" long ,,,      I made a call and she said we show ONE in stock and I said you must have TWO becuase I didn't get the one I ordered and she aid pls. hold and I will check,she said you'er right we have two   and they reshipped it from stock, had in 3 days.. great service 



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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Since the only bull nose I have is the OP 1", I decided to get their set, also figured with shipping from Grizzly, I'd prolly spend just as much as I did with Woodpeckers. To be honest, I was lazy just wanted to do one click ordering.  
I'll have to see about getting the 12" bit a little later on, once I get the hang of the jig.  I'll be givin ya a shout out when I get it.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Looking forward to that one BJ! 

corey


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Welp, as promised, I get home today from work and what do I see.... I finally got my Incra Hingecrafter today.   Hopefully within the next few weekends, (weather provided), will do some... "play-time".


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

This has been running around in my head for a week or two and I said I think I will ask to see if you got it done.. ? and see if you got a picture or two to post.


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Hamlin said:


> Welp, as promised, I get home today from work and what do I see.... I finally got my Incra Hingecrafter today.   Hopefully within the next few weekends, (weather provided), will do some... "play-time".


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Bob,

Unfortunetly no I haven't. Been a little under the weather.  It is sitting on top of the router table though.  I'm hoping within the next few weeks I'll be able to have some play time with it. I'll post some pics once I'm able to do something with it.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Bob, I tried to do a few hinges today. I got the "barrels" down ok. I'm having trouble cutting the "notches" out. The knuckles keep getting "ripped off". 

I've got some 3/4 Oak, haven't tried it yet. The only problem using 3/4 is, OP's standard plate, the opening isn't large enough. Have to switch it out with the plate used for the panel bit(s). Also, don't have a way to cut the barrels unless I use the TS with a dado blade. 

You got any idea's of what I'm doing wrong or what I need to do?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

You can use 3/4" Oak ,you didn't say what size of hinges you are making, I would suggest you start off with a 3/8" or 1/2" barrels ,,, 

Note the way the grain is running in the links below,,it's a big part of the hinge...plus it needs to be milled down to 1/2 the size of the barrel, see the other link for that.. ( just under 1/2 the size of the barrel , by 1/16" max) 1/2" barrel, the flat part (strap) would be .245 thick..) this is a must so the hinge can close all the way...

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/table-mounted-routing/10415-wooden-hinges-8090.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/table-mounted-routing/10418-wooden-hinges-8093.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/table-mounted-routing/10514-wooden-hinges-8116.jpg

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Hamlin said:


> Bob, I tried to do a few hinges today. I got the "barrels" down ok. I'm having trouble cutting the "notches" out. The knuckles keep getting "ripped off".
> 
> I've got some 3/4 Oak, haven't tried it yet. The only problem using 3/4 is, OP's standard plate, the opening isn't large enough. Have to switch it out with the plate used for the panel bit(s). Also, don't have a way to cut the barrels unless I use the TS with a dado blade.
> 
> You got any idea's of what I'm doing wrong or what I need to do?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

I started out with 3/8 then tried 1/2. After looking very carefully at both links, I think I see what I did wrong. I'll try again later this evening or tomorrow.
Thanks.


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