# New Member - Gee Whiz Question



## wude butcher (Jun 14, 2012)

I have graciously agreed to build a Hoosier Cabinet for my wife, good of me, right? Things are actually coming along very well and I have actually been using a router table and havent screwed anything up (very much). QUESTION: the upper section doors all have a glass in the top section of the rail and stile type construction. I need to remove the back of the 1/4" wide 3/8" deep slot where a panel would have normally been inserted. When removed, the glass needs to go in and then strips cut to secure glass panels. Problem, no router bit will trim the back shoulder off......clearances all too close. What am I not seeing? If this is too simple, I will be ashamed!!!!!!


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

I take it that the doors are already glued up?
If so, you MAY be able to set the fence on the router table and, using a straight bit, remove the shoulder. 
Set up a stop for the beginning and ending of the cut so you don't rout past the adjoining panel slots. At least two passes should get rid of the shoulder. 
Then, change to a larger dia. straight bit (if necessary) and deepen the cut to allow for the glass and retaining strip. 
If the door hasn't been glued, Just cut the shoulder away on the table saw and deepen the cut on the router table.
On the Hoosier I built, I just ran a bead of clear silicone around the inside. It's held for 10 years. The doors are 17" wide by 27 1/2" high with 3/4"X2" rails and stiles. The inset for the glass is 3/8"X3/8".


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## PetersCreek (Mar 13, 2012)

What Gene said, plus...

I'm also not sure what you mean by the clearance being too close. Any appropriately-sized straight/rabbeting bit (w/o bearings) chucked up in the router table should take care of that pretty neatly. 

Did you use a decorative rail & stile bit set for the doors or are we talking straight tenon and groove construction? If it's the former, I don't think you can go much deeper without getting into the profile. But then, it shouldn't be necessary unless your glass is very thick. Depending on the bit used to make the original profile, just routing the shoulder off should give you a rabbet ⅜" w x ~⅜" d, if your stock is ¾" thick.


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## wude butcher (Jun 14, 2012)

Thank you Gene - Yes, panels, rails, stiles are all glued. I guess I thought that all bearings on flush cutters would be less than 1/4". I fotgot about the set screw on top. Tossed around setting up rails on top and using router freehand. That is not a good looking proposition. If my flush cut just had a closer bearing clearance I would be OK. I am afraid of trying to free hand it without any guides. I'm still thinking, thinking, thinking.........Annnnny advice (free of course) would be welcome.:help:


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

You'll need to plunge each time you start a cut. Just set the work against the back stop and fence at an angle (front raised) and lower it on to the bit. Doing it this way though, I'm afraid a feather board will interfere. An out board guide is not a good idea, either.
Yeah, I thought of a flush cut bit, too. But came to the same conclusion you did. 
Looks like a router table and fence is the best option....short of cutting a new set of rails and stiles.
BTW, I'll send a bill.



wude butcher said:


> Thank you Gene - Yes, panels, rails, stiles are all glued. I guess I thought that all bearings on flush cutters would be less than 1/4". I fotgot about the set screw on top. Tossed around setting up rails on top and using router freehand. That is not a good looking proposition. If my flush cut just had a closer bearing clearance I would be OK. I am afraid of trying to free hand it without any guides. I'm still thinking, thinking, thinking.........Annnnny advice (free of course) would be welcome.:help:


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## 57759 (Apr 8, 2011)

Rather than plunging to start the cut consider boring a starter hole full depth of the final cut with a Forstner bit the diameter of the router bit. Lower the hole onto the cutter, secure the piece and then start the router and proceed with the cut. I don't have a plunge router or a router table so I use that method portable routing with a guide fence. Sometimes I'll use a stop hole also. I can tell by the sound when the stop hole is reached and on a one time item it's quicker than setting up a stop as in production would require.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

wude butcher said:


> I have graciously agreed to build a Hoosier Cabinet for my wife, good of me, right? Things are actually coming along very well and I have actually been using a router table and havent screwed anything up (very much). QUESTION: the upper section doors all have a glass in the top section of the rail and stile type construction. I need to remove the back of the 1/4" wide 3/8" deep slot where a panel would have normally been inserted. When removed, the glass needs to go in and then strips cut to secure glass panels. Problem, no router bit will trim the back shoulder off......clearances all too close. What am I not seeing? If this is too simple, I will be ashamed!!!!!!


Use a rabbetting bit.

Amazon.com: Freud 32-504 1/4-Inch Shank Multi-Rabbeting Router Bit Set: Joe Dolan: Home Improvement


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

New to all of this, so bear with me...
Would cutting a template and using guide bushings be an option? If all the glass openings are the same, only one template would need to be made. Clamp to the frame and take the stock out in a few passes. Router out of the table, door face down. If you had two routers, you could set the template, rout half the stock with router A, the rest with router B, move to the next pane.

Just thinking.


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## wude butcher (Jun 14, 2012)

Thanks ALL - I believe Al (a man of few words) has gotten me going down a simpler easier path. I may need to add another bit to my small collection. The Multi-Rabbiting bit - interesting!!!!! Thanks Sandbur, I thought of the hole, but that pesky bearing again. The rabbiting bit MAY be the answer.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I was going to suggest the rabbeting bit also. The only thing it won't do for you is square the corners. If you need them square you will need a (very) sharp chisel.


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## wude butcher (Jun 14, 2012)

*Worked!!*

Thanks to some sound advice, I finished routing out the back of the doors yesterday. Thanks to a rabbiting bit and a sharp (?) chisel. Worked like a charm, I'm starting to feel better already. Thanks everyone!!!


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## sparky the wood worker (Jul 3, 2012)

Jack:
Looking for the owner's manual for a Craftsman router that I purchased about a week ago. The Model # = 315.17370 circa 1982. Also what kind of bits would you reccommend I purchase for the 1/4" collet. Also what size flat wrench do I need for the 1/4" collet. Any and all replies would be appreciated................................... Bill


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

sparky the wood worker said:


> Jack:
> Looking for the owner's manual for a Craftsman router that I purchased about a week ago. The Model # = 315.17370 circa 1982. Also what kind of bits would you reccommend I purchase for the 1/4" collet. Also what size flat wrench do I need for the 1/4" collet. Any and all replies would be appreciated................................... Bill


Bill,

Welcome to the Forum.

This should have probably been on it's own thread in "General Routing," but no bad.

Manual: Router Forums - View Single Post - Crafstman router 315.17380 manual

A starter bit set, carbide tipped would run you about $20. A starter bit set usually includes a couple sized straight bits, a mortising bit, a couple roundover sized bits, a roman ogre bit, a couple rabbit sized bits, a chamfer bit, etc. Buying bits in a set is a lot cheaper than buying individual bits.

Flat Wrench--> Was Sears p/n 1-623813-03. Not quite sure what size that was, as I don't have your router it in front of me, I can't measure it. If that wrench is not available from Sears now, you could measure the outside of the collet nut, get the appropriate wrench size and grind the width down (if needed) to make it work for you. Only needs one wrench on the collet nut, as that router has a locking lever to lock the shaft.

Hope that helps.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

MLCS 15 Piece Router Bit Sets

1/4" SHANK SET
Item #6077 • $2.66 per bit

==


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Be careful about giving free advice. Socrates gave free advice and they poisoned him.
Good thread and answers- learned a bit (no pun) from the answers.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Added as FYI for the prosperity of others reading this later. Just another of the many techniques to do the same thing.

Another bit that someone might want to add to their collection that would have worked for this, a "flush/trim pattern bit." 








A common flush cut bit has a bearing on top, which was the bit they discussed in posts of this thread, with the problem being that with the bearing at the end, it won't allow a plunge cut. 

A flush/trim pattern bit has the bearing on the bottom to ride on a template, pattern or guide. It will allow a plunge cut. This is one of the handiest bits in making jigs and slots from patterns.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

MAFoElffen said:


> Added as FYI for the prosperity of others reading this later. Just another of the many techniques to do the same thing.
> 
> A flush/trim pattern bit has the bearing on the bottom to ride on a template, pattern or guide. It will allow a plunge cut. This is one of the handiest bits in making jigs and slots from patterns.


And be sure to keep checking that lil set screw I have more than a few boo boos from those rascals


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## wude butcher (Jun 14, 2012)

*Asleep at the switch*

Sorry Mr. Sparky - been busy using my router and spraying poly! Paduke gave you some very good advice, I'm suffering a little from that problem and I am choosing to ignore the results. I have made enough kindling for another winter like last one. You have been given some great advice and I dont know that I could add to it. The router sounds like an oldy but a goodie, have one similar myself with wrench that I could part with. Think the manual is inside the box. Bits: maybe some round overs, cove bit, an edge trim bit such as roman ogee, and maybe some type of pattern cutting bit. Dont worry too much, you'll be buying more!! By the way, your name stands for something, so does wude butcher so keep that in mind!!!:yes4:


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