# shiis



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

This is a method, not a jig or a fixture but there isn't a forum for methods.

Shiis and their construction

Image #0

I coined the word "shii" when I was working on skis because no one knew what they were called. These are not skis but like skis, have a specific function. This is not a unique invention on my part but an "interpretation" of someone else's work. To the right you'll see the original of what I call "shiis."

I have four 11" square OakPark base plates yet I have one router table with two base plate recesses. The base plates won't all fit into a common recess. I determined that part of the problem was the way I cut the recesses. It was uneven. I just couldn't hold the router perfectly perpendicular to the workpiece, especially when the centre of the recess fell away. I didn't guess right and the router tipped slightly causing a nice little divot. Therefore, shiis are intended to address the problem of tipping when doing edge treatments or cutting oversized, unsupported templates. This shii is sized so that it will bridge all inside templates on both ends and outside edges are cantilevered. I examined the relationship between router and workpiece and determined that visibility was key and that the location of the shii was as important as the location of the router. 

Image #1

Here's what's happening. First, notice how the router is cantilevered off the bench by the weight of the polycarbonate alone. Next, notice the masking tape with the direction of rotation installed. This is very important since the shii is only used in one direction. When working an outside edge, the way it is in this picture, you must always push the router away from you. 

The relationship between the router bit bearing or the template guide must always keep the shii on the left side and the shii must be perpendicular to the side being cut. This is most important when using template guides. The router bit is not perfectly centred in the middle of the template guide so if the router is rotated, the profile will differ with each change in the relationship between the guide, bit and workpiece. The advantage of the shii is that this relationship is naturally maintained thus eliminating any variation in the cut. 

Making the shii

Image #2

The shii consists of an elongated base plate or some equivalent. This method is the same as constructing a base plate. That's the one I'll use. The other method is two sticks, one on each side of the router. I tried this method and was not happy either with the movement of the wood or the way that it was used. I had difficulty matching the bearing surface of the sticks with the bearing surface of the base plate.

I used ¼" polycarbonate plastic and regular wood working tools. The only luxury is the drill press. I used an optical centre punch only because I'm myopic.

First job is to figure out how the router base is going to relate to the shii. In this instance, I'm using the Hitachi M12V as the model. I took the original base plate off the router and used it to locate how the router base would sit. The picture is somewhat skewed because of the angle that it was taken. I was also using the macro setting on the camera.

Image #3

Then I used the OakPark base plate to locate centre and to locate the mounting holes. Notice I'm using transfer punches here. It helps to use double sided tape to secure the baseplate but I did it without. What was vital was the OakPark centring disk. This allowed me to use the transfer punch to locate all of the holes to be drilled.

The second job was to drill the holes. I used a ¼" brad point bit in the drill press cut through until the brad dimpled the opposite side of the plastic, flipped it over and used the dimple to complete the hole without blowout. Repeat for each mounting screw hole. Switch out the bit and install a counter sink and using a screw head to size the countersink, countersink all four holes.

Image #4

The template guide hole was a bit different. I noticed that my Forstner bits seemed to wobble when I was using them. So, before I started using them here, I figured I'd better check it out. I have seen dial indicators in catalogues etc. but, I didn't need to know how much they were out, only if they were out, or not. To achieve this, I loaded a 4" piece of straight ½" drill rod into the chuck. I took one of my plastic parts canisters, put the edge against the drill rod and rotated the chuck by hand. The drill rod pushed the canister away slightly and a gap opened up between the canister and the drill rod. I reseated the drill rod and tried again. Interestingly enough, the gap disappeared. 

I mounted the Forstner bit and the same thing occurred. There was a gap. I undid the chuck, and gradually retightened it, this time making sure that the bit was well seated and centred in the chuck. This time there were no gaps. This proved to be absolutely critical.

Image #5

Drilling the guide mounting hole and shoulder was a repeat of the mounting holes except I started with the 1¾" hole. The Forstner bit also has a brad point that is very usable. I pushed down the 1¾" bit about " and checked the depth. Then I switched to the 1½" bit, checked to make sure it didn't wobble and began to push that through until I got a dimple on the other side. I flipped it over, again using the dimple as the pilot guide, I completed the hole perfectly.

Image #6

I figure I got pretty lucky. This is the test fit. I took the picture with the macro to show how close to dead centre the guide is. The mounting hole counter sinks seem exaggerated but the screws are only slightly below the surface of the shii.

Image #7

The last part of the construction is to strengthen the polycarbonate. I achieved this by establishing a line close to the router base and bending the polycarbonate. This creates a channel that is very strong and light. However, I didn't bend it 90 , I bent it 45 and 22.5 . This way the shii can slide and not catch on any unevenness in the workpiece and the shii doesn't obstruct or distort the view of the bit and where the router is going.

You can add a dust collection hose by resting it on the opposite side to the direction of travel. Putting it on the direction of travel side restricts the view too much

Image #8

This third view shows the strength of the shii. Notice how the router is cantilevered out over the edge. It is being held only by the weight of the polycarbonate. 

This design positions the operator at a specific position. The right hand goes on the right handle of the router. This allows freedom of control over the on/off switch and the depth lock. The left hand goes on the opposite end of the shii. The angle of the bend of the polycarbonate closest to you is 22½ . This angle keeps everything away from what is important, where the bit is and what it is doing. The other edge is bent up 45 so it can easily surmount any obstacle smoothly without obstructing view or operation of the router.

To use the shii, make sure your workpiece and work surface is perfectly clean and free of dust. This is so the shii will slide easily. Set a shallow depth of cut. Move the bit away from the cut. Grasp the right handle. Move the left hand to the other end of the shii. Turn on the router.

Move both ends of the shii at the same time. The trick is to keep the shii at right angle to where the cut is happening. If you're doing an outside edge, push the shii away from you. If you're doing an inside edge or a template, pull it toward you. When you've completed the cut, clean off the workpiece and the work surface. Reset the depth of cut a bit deeper and repeat. Sneak up on your final dimension.


----------



## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

I'm a little dense today, what is the purpose of the "shii"?


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Noob said:


> I'm a little dense today, what is the purpose of the "shii"?


Hi Paulo:

It stops the router from tipping when molding edges.


----------



## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

Isn't it just another way of saying "big base plate"? But the shii is _really_ big.


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

sofasurfer said:


> Isn't it just another way of saying "big base plate"? But the shii is _really_ big.


Nope, a big base plate is just that a big base plate. The shii is a specific method for handling specific situations.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Offset Router Plate - Rockler Woodworking Tools

=====


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Ron, mate, not one of your best ideas I'm afraid. You must remember that some members work spaces are not much bigger that your device. Could I suggest that a simple, quick to make router support like this one, made from a side fence but smooth or threaded rods would not take much longer to make and it's so much more versatile. The one shown in Bj's link is also very quick and simple to make and with a row of holes doubles for a circle cutting jig.


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Ron, mate, not one of your best ideas I'm afraid. You must remember that some members work spaces are not much bigger that your device. Could I suggest that a simple, quick to make router support like this one, made from a side fence but smooth or threaded rods would not take much longer to make and it's so much more versatile. The one shown in Bj's link is also very quick and simple to make and with a row of holes doubles for a circle cutting jig.


Hi Harry:

Nope, different purpose. The foot will stabilize the router on two different planes. The shii is to stabilize the router on a single plane where tipping is a probability. Specifically, doing edge work on large panels i.e. counter tops or router table insert holes. I'm using polycarbonate but the original was two sticks of wood. I had a problem with the wood moving out of spec so I had to use plastic.

This is not intended for everyone but it is intended as a method of using a router. I don't know about you guys but I have lots of molding to do in this house and this thing is quite necessary for me. I just figured someone else might find it handy.


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Ron,

it would seem to me it would be easier to do molding on a rt.


----------



## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Ron,
Can you can post some pics of the actual application you are or will be using this on? 

Thanks!


----------



## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Harry:
> 
> Nope, different purpose. The foot will stabilize the router on two different planes. The shii is to stabilize the router on a single plane where tipping is a probability. Specifically, doing edge work on large panels i.e. counter tops or router table insert holes. I'm using polycarbonate but the original was two sticks of wood. I had a problem with the wood moving out of spec so I had to use plastic.
> 
> This is not intended for everyone but it is intended as a method of using a router. I don't know about you guys but I have lots of molding to do in this house and this thing is quite necessary for me. I just figured someone else might find it handy.



Either I'm missing something here, or you're missing something.
The offset router bases that both BJ and Harry have posted are for exactly the purpose that you are describing for your Shiis. That is, to provide an extended base, resting on one plane, for the router when routing on the edge of material when tipping is a probability.
Yours is the same as theirs, just a lot bigger. 
What am I missing ?

The important thing I guess is that if it works for what you want it for, then you've done a good thing for yourself.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Harry:
> 
> Nope, different purpose. The foot will stabilize the router on two different planes. The shii is to stabilize the router on a single plane where tipping is a probability. Specifically, doing edge work on large panels i.e. counter tops or router table insert holes. I'm using polycarbonate but the original was two sticks of wood. I had a problem with the wood moving out of spec so I had to use plastic.
> 
> This is not intended for everyone but it is intended as a method of using a router. I don't know about you guys but I have lots of molding to do in this house and this thing is quite necessary for me. I just figured someone else might find it handy.


Sorry Ron but I simply don't understand what you're saying. The ideas from Bj and myself allow you to rout an edge as fast as you can walk around a counter with 100% stability. Even a total novice would have no difficulty using these methods. How about setting up a few photographs showing the difficulty that you're having using even the router with no additional support as tradesmen do using a bearing cutter. I'm led to believe by Bj that cutters with square bearings don't have the problem of leaving a line, however I haven't been able to source any over here.


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

gregW said:


> Ron,
> Can you can post some pics of the actual application you are or will be using this on?
> 
> Thanks!


I'll be doing another router table in the next while. When I get to it, I'll take some pics.


----------



## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

harrysin said:


> I'm led to believe by Bj that cutters with square bearings don't have the problem of leaving a line, however I haven't been able to source any over here.


I've seen the "Euro-Square bearings" at MLCS, but never tried them. Not sure how a square bearing works better than a round bearing though.










MLCS Euro™ Square Teflon bearing


----------



## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

It looks to me that the square part is a cover over the bearing, therefore it does not turn. The bearing inside it turns.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ron

Right on


=======



RStaron said:


> It looks to me that the square part is a cover over the bearing, therefore it does not turn. The bearing inside it turns.


----------



## MarcoBernardini (Jan 26, 2010)

RStaron said:


> It looks to me that the square part is a cover over the bearing, therefore it does not turn. The bearing inside it turns.


At this point the bearing support can have any shape you want/need... even that of a molding profile just in case you have to re-route a complex edge: Teflon is almost easy to be machined.
And what about a rectangular bearing pillow, to have a wider contact surface?


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Ron, take a look at the last part of this video that I just found in another thread.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/jntwrtr.html


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Ron, mate, not one of your best ideas I'm afraid. You must remember that some members work spaces are not much bigger that your device. Could I suggest that a simple, quick to make router support like this one, made from a side fence but smooth or threaded rods would not take much longer to make and it's so much more versatile. The one shown in Bj's link is also very quick and simple to make and with a row of holes doubles for a circle cutting jig.


I like that Harry. I've one of these Amazon.com: Milescraft 1205 TurnLock Universal Offset Router Base Kit: Home Improvement but for most applications, yours is simpler and quicker to fit on.

Cheers

Peter


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Ron, take a look at the last part of this video that I just found in another thread.
> 
> Jointing With A Router - NewWoodworker.com LLC


Hi Harry:

Thanks for pointing that out. He has the same problem that I have. He can't hold the router perfectly vertical while making the cut. Agreed the extended baseplate would help but the shiis would be better.

Wait until I get what I need to do the next table top and I'll try to demonstrate.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Beg pardon Ron, I didn't see or realise that he had a problem. What he was doing is being done EXACTLY like that all over the world every day.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Ron, I'm so sorry, I thought that you were an experienced routologist but I've just re-read your profile and see that you don't in fact have router experience. The best advice that I can give you is to find an old board and practice routing the edges with NO ADDITIONAL support for the router. Practice doing this until you feel at one with the router, believe me Ron, it will happen but if you keep using your shii, it won't.


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Beg pardon Ron, I didn't see or realise that he had a problem. What he was doing is being done EXACTLY like that all over the world every day.


There are three things I'm trying to address. Firstly, while watching the video, try to reference the side of the router to something in the background (not him). You'll notice that the router goes off vertical several times while doing the handheld bearing cut. An extended baseplate or a shii will take care of that.

Next, when I last cut the holes and shoulders for the OakPark baseplate, at the point where the scrap fell away, the router did a light tilt which translated into a divot in the wall of the hole and eventually into the shoulder. The shii will address this but not the extended baseplate, thus the difference. 

Thirdly, no matter how hard I try I can't get the router bit perfectly centered in a template guide. So, I have to keep the router constantly oriented the same way to the edge being molded. The shii allows me to do this precisely. The extended baseplate goes part way but not far enough.

I'm cutting 1/8" round overs on drawers, face frames, doors and moldings throughout the house. This slight detail has one horrible consequence. It is very subtle except when there is a flaw and then they seem to be magnified. My project is based on a piece of furniture I saw about 20 years ago. It was from a high-end manufacturer and cost thousands for a dresser. I was floored when I saw the flaws in the drawer fronts. I pointed this out to the vendor and he said it was hand made. I thought to myself the craftsman was drunk.

Skis suspend the router over the workpiece and all cuts are relative to the work surface. Shiis do the same thing but relate to the surface of the workpiece not the work surface. This changes the attitude of the finished product. I can use the edge cutting jig, template guides and bearings with this. I can also move the router to any position along the shiis depending on the application.

I put the shiis forward because I had spoken of them before as another method of using a router. I'm not forcing someone to use them. They are a solution to a problem that I've defined. In your template work, you don't need them because you build your templates to support the router fully. I don't have that luxury. Maybe they will be of use to someone else, someday. I've put them forward, that's all I can do.


----------



## Stefang (Feb 10, 2010)

I have a jointer and planer, but I still joint shorter pieces on my router table. I have a split fence and the outfeed side canpast the run against the infeed fence, then I stop and clamp the piece against the fence in the same position as where I stopped. That leaves a gap between the work piece and the outfeed fence, so I adjust outwards the outfeed fence until it sits evenly against the workpiece, then I'm set to continue with the outfeed side of the fence fully supporting the jointed workpiece. *I never use a bearing guided bit when I do this and I get excellent results.* I can't see why the guyt in the video is using one.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Noob said:


> I've seen the "Euro-Square bearings" at MLCS, but never tried them. Not sure how a square bearing works better than a round bearing though.
> MLCS Euro™ Square Teflon bearing


It works by not marking your stock by turning. A round bearing will turn, and could make marks where you don't want them.


----------



## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Stefang said:


> I have a jointer and planer, but I still joint shorter pieces on my router table. I have a split fence and the outfeed side canpast the run against the infeed fence, then I stop and clamp the piece against the fence in the same position as where I stopped. That leaves a gap between the work piece and the outfeed fence, so I adjust outwards the outfeed fence until it sits evenly against the workpiece, then I'm set to continue with the outfeed side of the fence fully supporting the jointed workpiece. *I never use a bearing guided bit when I do this and I get excellent results.* I can't see why the guyt in the video is using one.


If you read the article as well as watching the video, you would see that he says that IF you use a bit with a bearing, make sure it is not in contact with the wood. 
Don't know why he used it, but he does explain that the bearing has no use in the table mounted version of jointing.

Obviously if you didn't have a split fence, and couldn't be bothered finding some shims, you could always stick a straight edge on top of your wood and then use the bearing bit in the table to joint it. Oddly he doesn't mention that option.


----------

