# Router Table Fence



## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

I have this to make a fence out of for my router table.










I have a Woodpeckers MDF table top with cutout and getting the Woodpeckers 3/8" Alum Plate insert.

What are some features you would go with ?
I'm thinking :

*Split fence
*T Slot Track on the front and back. Front one for feathers boards, back one for split fence adjustment.
*Cut out on the Alum angle for bits.
*Make a dust collection box with 3" fitting.
* T Bolts and Knobs for fore and aft adjustment of fence.

Is a split fence a good idea ?
I would only split the Front malamine, not the Alum Angle.

Any suggestions/advice on making a homemade fence ?

Thanks


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Mike the biggest issue with using that angle for support is that you need about a 3 3/4" hole for the bit opening if you ever want to use a panel raiser or really large roundovers. that would cut the channel in half or you have to build up in front of it with enough layers of board to avoid that. I like split fences. I feel a little safer with it closed when using small bits. You don't have to use t track to make them though. I just finished my newest fence for the table I'm making and I'll post some pics in a bit that will maybe help a little.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

These are 4 views of my home made one. By using a bottom piece about 6" wide I was able to make the cutout with out weakening the structure of it. Laminating 2 pieces together in an L shape keeps the front straight and the bottom flat. The bolts are just 1/4" carriage bolts and the through slot is 1/4" so that the shoulders under the head of the bolt fit snugly in the slot without turning when you tighten them up.

One of the things I'll be doing when I have time is to make some different faces for the fence. I want one tall set for running boards through on edge and I may make a set with the t track slot in it for hold downs and stops. That will make it a little more versatile.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

With apologies to Mike first...I have a question on your vise Charles. Is that the Veritas vise? Mine has rounded ends on the cover, but otherwise looks similar. Thanks.

Back to our regularly scheduled program...

Could that aluminum angle not be opened up sufficiently to do the job safely, and then reinforced with more aluminum Tig welded to the top and bottom side to retain strength?


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

A couple of thoughts.

First, if this is your first fence ever, I'd opt for really simple. Get something going to learn what you like and don't like. Too many times in my WW "career" I've thought something was a great idea but when I used it found out otherwise.

That AL angle looks like a good idea but I wonder how you are going to make a DC port in it and keep the two sides aligned. The split fence may work against that. Maybe some 1/2" BB on the horizontal part of the AL piece would help.

T Slots are nice in the fence face. I made some stop blocks with cam locks that fit in my fence's t tracks and they work really great - fast set up and tear down. 

Unless you already have T tracks in your router table, I wouldn't bother at first. Just use clamps to hold down the fence. See how it goes for a while and then add after you get a little more experience with the fence.

I guess my advice could be summed up as "go slow, don't do unnecessary stuff".


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

cocobolo1 said:


> With apologies to Mike first...I have a question on your vise Charles. Is that the Veritas vise? Mine has rounded ends on the cover, but otherwise looks similar. Thanks.
> 
> Back to our regularly scheduled program...
> 
> Could that aluminum angle not be opened up sufficiently to do the job safely, and then reinforced with more aluminum Tig welded to the top and bottom side to retain strength?


Yes it is the twin screw Veritas. This is close to around 20 years old so if yours looks different that may be why.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

http://www.routerforums.com/kp91s-gallery/1708-router-table-upgrade.html#post18002

If you look at the bottom picture in this post from years back you can see I have a split fence set up on my aluminum angle fence. Most of the time I just use a piece of scrap MDF with a cut out in it. I can bury the bit into the MDF for a zero clearance fence if needed, but usually a small window works pretty good and gives enough air flow for dust collection (I have a vac nozzle that rests behind the fence.) If I don't need the bit in the fence I put a piece of solid MDF on the front. 

If using a split fence I have two bolts and knobs for each section. I can shim one out with laminate and use it as a jointer, but I haven't needed to do that since I bought a decent jointer. 

The fence is simple and effective.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Yes it is the twin screw Veritas. This is close to around 20 years old so if yours looks different that may be why.


Roger that...I think mine is closer to 10 years old now.

When I left the island, there was no way that I could move the bench I built there. And I really didn't want to leave the veritas there...so I took it off the bench and brought it with me. All it needs now is a bench to be attached to! :smile:


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It looks like the flanges on your angle are wider than Mike's are Doug. I think if he cuts out enough for the bit there may not be enough left to hold it straight.


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

Well, 
I think my alum has 3 1/2 legs, maybe 4".
I am going to take a look at my largest raised panel bit and see how much I would have to remove.

This isn't my first router table, I have had one for 20 yrs just upgrading .

On my other fence I didn't have split fence and never needed really...but my cut out was fairly large.
I all did my dust collection from the bottom , it had a sealed cabinet under, with a removable front for access. 

I never had T Track for feather boards...just used a clamp to hold the feather board on. Same with a stop block if I needed it. Clamps pretty simple but would get in the way sometimes.

I Thought I would make a dust collecting box out of 3/4 hdpe on the sides and 1/4 lexan on the top with hose hook up and screw it one with counter sinked screws from the front of the alum angle.

I have been looking for some plans for a fence but haven't found one that suits me yet. 

Thanks for the suggestions.....every bit of information is welcomed


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

Well...I got out my largest raised panel bit ( which I hardly ever use) and it doesn't look like I need to cut out that much of the alum angle. What do you think ? How big of opening in the alum angle do you think I need to have ?



















Am I not seeing something or thinking wrong about the size of cutout I need ?

Thanks


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## bcfunburst (Jan 14, 2012)

My first concern with an aluminum fence is the black smudges left by the metal as the wood passes over the fence. You might want to use insert nuts and have a slotted wooden fence face, so your precious wood is not blackened by the aluminum. I managed to acquire a VERITAS Router Table Assembly complete (used) some years back. NO Smudges with steel top and wood fence facings. You can make a number of different fence faces to suit your needs at the time.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

wax the fence and use a harder aluminum...


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

I have the alum angle for keeping things square and i have a 1" thick x 4" malamine fence face. The wood will not be sliding on the alum angle.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

bcfunburst said:


> My first concern with an aluminum fence is the black smudges left by the metal as the wood passes over the fence. You might want to use insert nuts and have a slotted wooden fence face, so your precious wood is not blackened by the aluminum. I managed to acquire a VERITAS Router Table Assembly complete (used) some years back. NO Smudges with steel top and wood fence facings. You can make a number of different fence faces to suit your needs at the time.


Never had any issues with black smudges using either of my aluminum fences. I usually have an MDF facing, but not always.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

kp91 said:


> Never had any issues with black smudges using either of my aluminum fences. I usually have an MDF facing, but not always.


Good to know. I think the aluminum (or the wood) might need to be wet before there was any sort of reaction. Wax should help prevent that.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

For a bit like a raised panel that is 3.375 to 3.625" in diameter with bearing you would need a cutout that goes back about 2" (and maybe a hair for comfort level) from the face of the fence.


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

So If I have the 1" Melamine for the face than I would only have to get into the alum angle 1 1/2 " at the most.... both height and width . 
Do you think that would be a big enough opening ?

Thanks


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

On rare occasion there might be an issue with the height but you could cure that by adding extra faces so that the bit isn't under the aluminum. The bottom flange is what keeps the fence straight so I would put more value on having it as wide as possible.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

MBurke said:


> So If I have the 1" Melamine for the face than I would only have to get into the alum angle 1 1/2 " at the most.... both height and width .
> Do you think that would be a big enough opening ?
> 
> Thanks


you can always go bigger, you can't go smaller. Make the biggest hole you are comfortable making, and you can shim out the fence face or make your hole bigger then. You could make a nice 1 1/2 inch thick hardwood fence face just for panel raising.


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

Thanks for all the suggestions and insight...I appreciate it. I think i know how to move forward from here


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> These are 4 views of my home made one. By using a bottom piece about 6" wide I was able to make the cutout with out weakening the structure of it. Laminating 2 pieces together in an L shape keeps the front straight and the bottom flat. The bolts are just 1/4" carriage bolts and the through slot is 1/4" so that the shoulders under the head of the bolt fit snugly in the slot without turning when you tighten them up.
> 
> One of the things I'll be doing when I have time is to make some different faces for the fence. I want one tall set for running boards through on edge and I may make a set with the t track slot in it for hold downs and stops. That will make it a little more versatile.



Chuck, 

That looks great! I've saved this page so I can refer back to it when I'm ready to start making mine. I'm working on the porch deck project now but that doesn't mean I'm not thinking about the router table.

Thanks again,
Bryan


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Some people prefer to work from a plan when building things. The tables in the first two photos and the fence is from ShopNotes #1. You can buy and download this plan from plansnow.com. I modified this fence plan and used some parts from Rockler for the first fence I built. The table it is on is a ShopSmith table I took in trade.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Routerforums was started by the third generation of the Rosendahl family involved with the Router Workshop. Bob Rosendahl and his son Rick developed many of the best jigs to work with over the years and sold them at trade shows. The Router Workshop TV show ran for 14 seasons on PBS and featured many of their jigs and fixtures plus the "Keep it simple" method of routing. Shortly after I joined the forums Rick talked me into trying a Router Workshop table and I was hooked.

The simple fence made from HDPE is held in place with two modified C clamps; this means unlimited set up possibilities. No need to attach a vacuum hose to the fence since I have the Vac-U-Plate on my Router Workshop table. The hose attaches to a port in the right rear of the router compartment. This patented design works pretty well capturing most of the debris.

When Oak Park stopped selling their products I built the Economy table and posted the specs on the forums. A couple years ago I built my simple dust collection fence and it works very well at capturing the debris. Other members who built one were happy with it.

There is no one solution that is right for everyone. I posted these to offer alternatives.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

@Mike

Mike: I've tried searching for the Oak Park "economy table" you reference in the above post with no luck (too many results). Can you post a link to the specific thread/post where you posted dimensions?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Here is a link for the top; I will see if I can find what happened to the rest.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-m...le-top-install-mounting-plate.html#post127219


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

This is what I ended up with. It Works Perfect. The opening is 2.5 wide x 1.5 high x 1" deep and with my 1" thick fence its plenty big enough for what I am using it for.
Works Great.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Change 'hardly ever' to NEVER....it still has the rubbery protective coating on it. I usually remove it before using a bit.....hmmm should I have left it on?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Nice job Mike, you should be very happy with your fence/table.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Jim, the coating is to prevent rust during shipment and it should be removed.


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

> Change 'hardly ever' to NEVER


I know it...its been a while since i have had them sharped....I should take it. 

Thanks Mike

It is a big improvement from what I had before and have used it quite a bit for small edge work stuff. It works great,
And I really like my new Bosch 1617 router, Its sweet !!


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

Your beasty turned out well. Here are just a few more things to for others to consider, when building a table and fence.

As to smudges, and presuming the angle iron is of the dimensions that would allow it, it would serve as the fence. You can always attach laminate to it, to avoid smudges. The laminate makes a nice surface to ride on too, and will take wax well.


Since you are using aluminum and, again, if it is of sufficient thickness, I'd consider a split fence. It'd be a bit extra work, but screws like on a vice (finer threads and grade eight would be best) could be used through a threaded block mounted to the table to move the fences independently. That's how my Freud works and I love it. I could never go back to shims.

The better grade of bolts would allow you to lock the bolts (the locks could have nylon pads between them and the positioning bolts).

I drilled holes in my table and installed T nuts, from the bottom, so I can move my fence forward and back for different cuts.

Though the router is, normally, a dust producing beast, with the hood on the bottom, the port on top, and even though they are only 2-1/2", I get very little mess off mine. Maybe a teaspoon full on a significant run of material, using either my 1-1/2 or my 3 horse collector pulling air off the table.


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