# Help! How to get smooth glossy Polyurethane finish?



## Blue Jackets Fan (Sep 24, 2011)

Hi all, 
Firstly, I must say I'm new here! 

I am a drummer, and I am working on a drum refinishing project. I have the painted finish completed, and wet sanded to 4000 grit. It looks terrific. However, this next step og applying Poly to it for a glossy shine has been giving me fits for close to a month.

Whenever I apply the poly (I have tried oil and water based), I get brush strokes. So, once they dry, and I sand them to get the finish smooth, I can never seem to not sand right through the poly back to the paint. Then I have to re-sand the painted finish, and try again. 

I have scoured the net reading articles that seem to make doing a Polyurethane finish easy to accomplish, but I can't even seem to eliminate brush strokes. 

If anyone could give me a tip or two, I'd really appreciate it. 

Am I applying too thick a coat? I'm sanding with 400 grit on an orbital sander. 

UGH!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

May I suggest rattle can Poly, it's available in three grades of shine. personally, I use thinners based paints and lacquers which, in average temperatures can be re-coated in about 10 to 15 minutes. You must not however use lacquer on top of turps based paint, it will lift.


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## telecarver1 (Sep 25, 2009)

Temperature can be a problem. If the finish dries too fast you can get brush strokes but I think your problem is that by the time it takes to work all of the around the drum, the finish is starting to set up. Polyurethane flows on smoothly on a horizontal surface but it has to be applied fairly thickly. The thickness needed to get it to flow smoothly on a vertical surface makes it prone to forming drips.

I have found that the best way to get a smooth finish is to spray it on. I use a HVLP sprayer but you can buy polyurethane in spray cans. Experiment on a test piece to get the right thickness without forming drips.

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You can also like my page on Facebook to get updates and see my latest work in progress as well as updates on classes. 
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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I prefer to spray polyurethane & thin it with Naptha. This works well over thinning with mineral spirits for vertical surfaces.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I use wipe on poly and git good results if the last coat is from a new can. I sand with 400 sand paper by hand then 0000 steel wool then hand rub the finish. It works fairly well for me.


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

I use spray poly in the can lately and spray it thin but do multiple coats, it has been working for me


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## edwardsx (Jul 17, 2009)

I use wipe on poly, but you have to put on more coats than with the canned stuff.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Since you are having a difficult time with both oil and water based poly let's look at the brush you are using. Be sure the brush is intended for poly, many look the same but are made of different materials for different applications. I use Purdy brushes for everything except glue. Start by soaking the brush in the solvent for the material you are using. This draws up into the reservoir inside the brush and will make for easier cleaning when you are done. Remove the excess solvent from the brush and apply your finish. Clean your brush right away in the solvent and use a brush spinner to help dry it. A spinner is only a few dollars and will make a huge difference over the lifetime of your brushes. Store your brushes in the wraps they come in. The wraps are designed to help your brushes dry in their proper shape.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Blue Jackets Fan said:


> Hi all,
> Firstly, I must say I'm new here!
> 
> I am a drummer, and I am working on a drum refinishing project. I have the painted finish completed, and wet sanded to 4000 grit. It looks terrific. However, this next step og applying Poly to it for a glossy shine has been giving me fits for close to a month.
> ...


It's just occurred to me that a late friend used brush on poly for all his many projects which he used to sell and he told me that he thinned it with, I think, 10% turps. I have a number of things that he made and they have a perfect smooth high gloss finish. This paper towel holder which he gave us over ten years ago still looks great.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Looks good for a old TP holder.. 


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harrysin said:


> It's just occurred to me that a late friend used brush on poly for all his many projects which he used to sell and he told me that he thinned it with, I think, 10% turps. I have a number of things that he made and they have a perfect smooth high gloss finish. This paper towel holder which he gave us over ten years ago still looks great.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Blue Jackets Fan said:


> I am a drummer, and I am working on a drum refinishing project. I have the painted finish completed, and wet sanded to 4000 grit. It looks terrific. However, this next step og applying Poly to it for a glossy shine has been giving me fits for close to a month.
> 
> Whenever I apply the poly (I have tried oil and water based), I get brush strokes. So, once they dry, and I sand them to get the finish smooth, I can never seem to not sand right through the poly back to the paint. Then I have to re-sand the painted finish, and try again.
> 
> ...


Breaks down to three steps:
Join ghostnote.net.
Pay $20 for the drum labs.
Then lookup latindrums tutorial.


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## crolf (May 28, 2006)

I use Minwax poly, let first coat dry, sand with 0000 steel wool , apply 2nd coat. If it is not glossy enough sand with 0000 wool and apply 3rd coat. I haven't had any problems doing it this way. I like the finish on my projects to to be a smooth as glass.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Blue Jackets fan; Hi! Put the orbital sander away, bjf. If, after the first sealer coat you're still needing to do a lot of sanding on subsequent coats, somethings wrong.
Try using a very dense quality foam applicator rather than a bristle brush. Use the urethane fairly generously but apply it quickly...you _can't_ go back and 'brush it out' after a few seconds; it creates a roughened surface. Personally, I've switched to waterbourne as opposed to thinner based urethane. It's a pleasure to work with.
If you have a *Mohawk Finishes* outlet anywhere near you, pay them a visit. They are the suppliers of all types of wood finishes to the commercial furniture manufacturing and restoration businesses...they're a tremendous information resource. Online catalogue is really helpful as well.
Try using sanding pads (non-directional woven) rather than sandpaper...wet or dry, but only after the finish is _really_ dry (overnight).
Cheers,
-Dan


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Sorry, I forgot to mention that an absolutely dust free surface and environment is essential! Especially for high gloss. I use satin for all my casework so a light final surface sanding is ok, no scratches to show.:dirol:


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Time to share the method my late father-in-law came up with. He would turn bowls from glued up blocks of differing wood. After turning into a bowl, he would change the lathe's drive belt to a much slower motor. Slow like one revolution per minute.

He would slop on verathane while the bowl slowly turned. The slow turning would level out the surface to a high gloss. No buffing/polishing required.

I haven't tried it but I think a BBQ rotisserie motor would be slow enough to achieve the same effect.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

BJF; I just reread your original problem, as stated, and it occurred to me that considering how important to you this is, why not take the drums into a good auto-body shop and have them spray 'clearcoat' for you? you'll end up with a rockhard, perfect shine.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Unless our new member is getting these thread posts via email, he isn't seeing them. His profile statistics state his last logon was the day of his original post (post #1 by him).


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