# Router Bit/Saw Blade Wax Coating



## rodbetts (Mar 12, 2010)

Can anyone tell me what the wax that the sharpening folks use to coat resharpened router bits & saw blades with is called & where I can get some?

Thx.

Rod Betts


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

rodbetts said:


> Can anyone tell me what the wax that the sharpening folks use to coat resharpened router bits & saw blades with is called & where I can get some?
> 
> Thx.
> 
> Rod Betts


HI Rod - Welcome to the forum
I really can't help you with that but it is an interesting question, will be watching this thread. I assume you are looking for something to protect them for long term storage? I don't know why good old fashioned parafin wouldn't work.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the RouterForums Rod. Glad you found us.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

rodbetts said:


> Can anyone tell me what the wax that the sharpening folks use to coat resharpened router bits & saw blades with is called & where I can get some?
> 
> Thx.
> 
> Rod Betts


Hi Rod:

This isn't what you want but it might do in a pinch until you find the "read" stuff.

I used to have to "lock" on the bolts on my bicycle. They were all Allen head. I'd put some car wax (carnuba or something similar) into the cavity and let it dry. Then, I'd fill the cavity with silicone caulking. Worked like a charm. Take a pin and poke out the silicone and the wax kept the shoulders clean. Dip your product in the wax then in the silicone. As always, experiment on scrap first.


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## rodbetts (Mar 12, 2010)

As requested, I've updated my profile. I'm retired and spend a good bit of my time in a woodworking shop currently located in my basement. It's pretty well equipped and I'll soon need to be considering a separate shop in the back yard as I keep stumbling over tools. I've got quite a few saw blades, shaper cutters, & router bits. I have a small Unimat Compact 5 lathe I bought many years ago and I recently bought a used, inexpensive, carbide saw blade sharpening machine I found in a local posting. With these two machines I'm able to sharpen all my own carbide tooling although it takes a while to do the larger shaper knives.

After a bit of practice, I'm now able to bring all these tools back to "as new" condition without a lot of difficulty. Since I don't have to send them anywhere to be sharpened, I can keep them sharp without a lot of trouble. I sharpen them more often than I otherwise would do, but as they're not very dull when sharpened, little carbide is removed & there's little waste. 

My blades, bits & cutters are all stored in open racks in the shop & I thought it would be nice to dip them in wax as some of them will go months or years between uses.

Thanks all,

Rod Betts

p.s. - My most annoying woodworking complaint by far is the vast amount of time it takes to set up a router. Always, always, always, you spend more time to set up a router than it takes to use it. Someone really needs to get working on this! I have five or six routers, most of which I set up and never change, all because it takes so long to set them up.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

> My most annoying woodworking complaint by far is the vast amount of time it takes to set up a router. Always, always, always, you spend more time to set up a router than it takes to use it. Someone really needs to get working on this! I have five or six routers, most of which I set up and never change, all because it takes so long to set them up.


I find this to be true of most wood working equipment. Patience is not my forte. By the time I find the wood, square the wood, set up the saw/router/planer/jointer/whatever for the cuts/shapes I need I'm too tired to make the project.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

CanuckGal said:


> I find this to be true of most wood working equipment. Patience is not my forte. By the time I find the wood, square the wood, set up the saw/router/planer/jointer/whatever for the cuts/shapes I need I'm too tired to make the project.


I share that feeling sometimes myself. Then, I stop and remind myself how long it would take to do the job without the tool I'm setting up/cleaning up. 
Kinda like the paint sprayer. 30 min to set up, 30 min to clean up, 30 min to spray. Ok, took me an hour and a half and got the same job done it would have taken 4 hours to do with a brush...
Can't comprehend the time difference between a router and a chisel..


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

jschaben said:


> I share that feeling sometimes myself. Then, I stop and remind myself how long it would take to do the job without the tool I'm setting up/cleaning up.
> Kinda like the paint sprayer. 30 min to set up, 30 min to clean up, 30 min to spray. Ok, took me an hour and a half and got the same job done it would have taken 4 hours to do with a brush...
> Can't comprehend the time difference between a router and a chisel..


It took an hour to write a single page letter with quill and ink. Then along came the typewriter and it took 20 minutes to do a single page and we complained how long it took. Then, came the word processor and the daisy wheel printer and we complained when it took 60 seconds to print a page. Then along came the laser printer and it took a few seconds to print a page and we still complain that it takes an hour to print that 1,000 page book. Seems all we do is complain ;-)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Your math maybe off just a bit,
setup the paint sprayer, 2 mins.,clean up 2 mins.spray job 2 mins or less.
for a total time of 6 mins..or pickup a spray can and it's down to 2 mins.or less total.


======


jschaben said:


> I share that feeling sometimes myself. Then, I stop and remind myself how long it would take to do the job without the tool I'm setting up/cleaning up.
> Kinda like the paint sprayer. 30 min to set up, 30 min to clean up, 30 min to spray. Ok, took me an hour and a half and got the same job done it would have taken 4 hours to do with a brush...
> Can't comprehend the time difference between a router and a chisel..


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi John
> 
> Your math maybe off just a bit,
> setup the paint sprayer, 2 mins.,clean up 2 mins.spray job 2 mins or less.
> ...


:laugh:Yeah, math may be off a bit. Spray can wouldn't cover a 40'x15' side of my house though. I know, my grandson tried it last year:sarcastic:
50' of spray house will take me a bit more than 2 min to pump out too. :sad: Must be slowin down:laugh:


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## rodbetts (Mar 12, 2010)

Okay guys, here’s the deal. Since I started this thread, I ought to be able to say this w/o upsetting anyone.

First, I really do want to know where I can get some of the router bit wax goop I mentioned in my first posting. I’m hoping someone will come along & give me a lead. I can’t seem to find anything by googeling & I would like to have the real thing.


Second, we’ve gotten off topic. To my knowledge, there are no other shop tool as awkward to setup as are routers. Here’s why:


1st - Although there are minor exceptions, most routers will neither stand on their head nor lay peacefully on their side while they’re being setup. If you try to stand them on their heads to change bits, they fall over. If you try to do it with them laying on their side, they roll all over the bench or onto the floor. On most routers, the cords come out of the top making it impossible to stand set them up. Changing bits is a three-handed job in a two-handed world. This would be an easy fix if only router manufacturers would think before they start casting parts.

2nd - Another concern is the Porter Cable type template guides that have become standard on most routers. They’re almost impossible to securely lock in place. They’re designed to be hand tightened but when hand tightened, vibrate loose. The only option is to tighten them with Channel-Lock pliers which chews up the rings. Also, if the threads are tight (normal) there’s no way to hold the guide while the ring is being tightened so you can’t tighten them anyway unless you use another pair of pliers which destroys the guides. It would be so simple to design a system that uses a set screw to lock the collets in place, yet no one has gone there.

3rd - The small openings in the side of the router base are awkward to use, especially if you’ve misplaced the wrench or wrenches that came with the router (they seem always able to find a places to hide) and you need to use substitutes, such as crescent wrenches. Someone needs to design a base with a flip-up bottom that can be tilted out of the way for better access - not a difficult task I shouldn’t think.

All routers should have a shaft locking slide on the side of the router otherwise you need one hand to hold the router, another hand to push in a strongly springed shaft locking button and then, of course, your third hand to turn the router collet lock nut wrench. All this could be avoided by making the armature shaft a little larger, running a collet locking bolt up through the shaft that could be loosened or tightened from above. Simple enough but no one’s been there yet.

4th - The near universal aluminum to aluminum contact between router motor and base is a dreadful combination. Without constant waxing they’re always binding and galling. A little nylon or similar material between these rubbing surfaces would make all the difference yet no one seems able or willing to do a fix.

5th - I could go on but I’ll mention only this one last but SERIOUSLY ANNOYING peeve. Every tool manufacturer that uses stiff plastic power cords should have their CEO blindfolded and shot. Well, maybe a blindfold wouldn’‘t be necessary.

Now you have it. I’ll annoy you no more.


Rod


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Rod,

This is what we use at work for long term storage. I'll be honest, its a little messy, but it works.

LPS 3 Premier Rust Inhibitor - LPS Lubricants

Hope this helps.


PS- The site below is how the pros do it.

http://www.evanscoatings.com/


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

rodbetts said:


> Okay guys, here’s the deal. Since I started this thread, I ought to be able to say this w/o upsetting anyone.
> 
> First, I really do want to know where I can get some of the router bit wax goop I mentioned in my first posting. I’m hoping someone will come along & give me a lead. I can’t seem to find anything by googeling & I would like to have the real thing.


Doug has hit the nail on the head, below.



> Second, we’ve gotten off topic. To my knowledge, there are no other shop tool as awkward to setup as are routers. Here’s why:





> 1st - Although there are minor exceptions, most routers will neither stand on their head nor lay peacefully on their side while they’re being setup. If you try to stand them on their heads to change bits, they fall over. If you try to do it with them laying on their side, they roll all over the bench or onto the floor. On most routers, the cords come out of the top making it impossible to stand set them up. Changing bits is a three-handed job in a two-handed world. This would be an easy fix if only router manufacturers would think before they start casting parts.


Put the 7x7 or 11x11 OakPark baseplate on and it will hold the router quite nicely at a reasonable angle to release the collet with the two wrench system.



> 2nd - Another concern is the Porter Cable type template guides that have become standard on most routers. They’re almost impossible to securely lock in place. They’re designed to be hand tightened but when hand tightened, vibrate loose. The only option is to tighten them with Channel-Lock pliers which chews up the rings. Also, if the threads are tight (normal) there’s no way to hold the guide while the ring is being tightened so you can’t tighten them anyway unless you use another pair of pliers which destroys the guides. It would be so simple to design a system that uses a set screw to lock the collets in place, yet no one has gone there.


There are brass and steel template guides. Steel guides are usually provided by router manufacturers because of cost. However, they do garner some support from members here. There are two sizes of brass template guides,
1 3/16 PorterCable size and 1 3/4 OakPark/LeeValley size. I prefer the 1 3/4 brass with a ring nut and tighten slightly more than finger tight.



> 3rd - The small openings in the side of the router base are awkward to use, especially if you’ve misplaced the wrench or wrenches that came with the router (they seem always able to find a places to hide) and you need to use substitutes, such as crescent wrenches. Someone needs to design a base with a flip-up bottom that can be tilted out of the way for better access - not a difficult task I shouldn’t think.


I'm not going to touch that one.



> All routers should have a shaft locking slide on the side of the router otherwise you need one hand to hold the router, another hand to push in a strongly springed shaft locking button and then, of course, your third hand to turn the router collet lock nut wrench. All this could be avoided by making the armature shaft a little larger, running a collet locking bolt up through the shaft that could be loosened or tightened from above. Simple enough but no one’s been there yet.


Use the OakPark baseplate and two wrenches. It takes one hand. The shaft lock requires 4 hands to tighten and three to release the collet.



> 4th - The near universal aluminum to aluminum contact between router motor and base is a dreadful combination. Without constant waxing they’re always binding and galling. A little nylon or similar material between these rubbing surfaces would make all the difference yet no one seems able or willing to do a fix.


My M12V is steel on brass, I think. The base is magnesium alloy, the columns are steel and there are bronze? bearing inserts inside the column receivers. 



> 5th - I could go on but I’ll mention only this one last but SERIOUSLY ANNOYING peeve. Every tool manufacturer that uses stiff plastic power cords should have their CEO blindfolded and shot. Well, maybe a blindfold wouldn’‘t be necessary.





> Isn't it amazing how they can cheapen a tool by a cord.
> 
> Now you have it. I’ll annoy you no more.


Well, you haven't even started. In fact, you've contributed handsomely and I thank you for it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rod

It comes down to what type of router you are trying to use, the Craftsman has though it ,almost all of the way.
The PC is still behind the times on many items..

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12605?keyword=all+routers&vName=Tools

If you make a call to MLCS I sure they will give you a name of the "bit wax goop company " they just may have some it stock, I'm sure they get bits back and need to re-dip them..

Guides,,if you use the MileCraft plate you can change the guides in a snap and because the quick turn insert it's off the machine it's easy to lock the ring nut if you still have a error they sale a wave washer that will do the job.

Lock pin, is the best way one hand to hold the lock pin in place and one hand for the wrench, many come with a way to put on 2 wrench's if you want to use it that way.
But using the offset wrench is the best way if the router is in the router table.
Aging it come down to what type of router you have and want to use.

" small openings " many of the routers ,the motor will just slide out to make it easy to work on them and stand them on it's top.

" stiff plastic power cords " many don't ,if it's from over the pond it may have..

http://mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/techfaq.htm#waxcoat_anchor

" The Protective Wax Coating On Router Bits

Q: What is that clear coating / protective coating on my bits and how do I remove it?
A: Most MLCS bits are coated with a protective wax coating to defend against chipping and moisture. This coating should be removed prior to use. The coating can be removed by peeling it away with your fingernail or a razor blade. If using a blade, please be careful, both for your own safety and to avoid damaging the carbide."


======== 



rodbetts said:


> Okay guys, here’s the deal. Since I started this thread, I ought to be able to say this w/o upsetting anyone.
> 
> First, I really do want to know where I can get some of the router bit wax goop I mentioned in my first posting. I’m hoping someone will come along & give me a lead. I can’t seem to find anything by googeling & I would like to have the real thing.
> 
> ...


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

rodbetts said:


> Can anyone tell me what the wax that the sharpening folks use to coat resharpened router bits & saw blades with is called & where I can get some?
> 
> Thx.
> 
> Rod Betts


Hey Rod, since you INSIST that we stay on the original topic... :sarcastic:

I don't know where you can get the same stuff, maybe at a tool shop or something similar? What might work for you is stuff called (I think) Plas-dip. I've seen it at the BORG in the past in the tool coral. If colour is an issue, I've only seen it in black, but it's for dipping tool handles in. It leaves a rubber coating behind.


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## rodbetts (Mar 12, 2010)

Thanks for all the info guys. I'll check them out & let you know what I find.

Rod


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

rodbetts said:


> Can anyone tell me what the wax that the sharpening folks use to coat resharpened router bits & saw blades with is called & where I can get some?
> 
> Thx.
> 
> Rod Betts


Hi Rod - Not sure but I am guessing this is the kinda stuff you are asking about. Suspect it is gonna be priced for shops though.:sad:
Hot melt strippable dip coatings & melting tanks from Evans Coatings - Detroit area, Michigan


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## rodbetts (Mar 12, 2010)

Thanks for all your help guys. I'm aware of most all the suggested remedies. I bought a MileCraft router plate a while ago but it seems so frail (especially the inserts), I've never installed it so it sits on a shelf. I've pretty much given up on Craftsman. Over the years, I've had too many failures with they're electrical tools. It seems like everyone else is cheapening up their stuff so maybe now they're no worse than others. I can't think of a tool brand that I've not been disappointed with at some time or other. 

The guy at MLCS either didn't know or wouldn't say where I could get the router coating goop. I've sent an email asking about the Hot Melt Type I Wax. I haven't had a response yet but fear they'll want to sell it in 55 gallon drums.

I know there are routers available that have fixed some of the problems I've mentioned but none of them have fixed them all, or for that matter, as far as I know, even more than one on any given model. Besides, why should we have to spend all that extra money to fix things that should have been built right in the first place? So far, I think my system works best. Buy routers cheap on eBay (so what if they're not new) set them up in the more commonly used setups & then leave them setup. Heck, I could buy at least two additional routers for the same money it would cost me to buy all those desirable router trinkets. Even if you have to throw one away once in a while, you might still be ahead and it's sure nice to pick up a router, turn it on, route, and then put it back on the shelf when done.

Regards,

Rod Betts


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

I wonder if you emailed one of the companies that does sharpening of saw blades what they use to coat blades with if they would be helpful?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

rodbetts said:


> The guy at MLCS either didn't know or wouldn't say where I could get the router coating goop. I've sent an email asking about the Hot Melt Type I Wax.


[/QUOTE]

Rod:

Evans Coatings have a toll free number. Just give them a call.


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## rodbetts (Mar 12, 2010)

Okay guys, here's the poop.

Evans Coatings has the right stuff but won't sell less than 25 lbs. The same stuff is sold through McMaster Carr only they sell in smaller quantities. The item number is 7762T44. It's called Hot-Melt Reusable Peel-Away Coating Style A. I bought 5 lbs. for $31.66 and I guess that includes shipping as they didn't add any shipping costs to the invoice. It is also available in other quantities. There are other styles but A or B are likely what you'd want to use.

I don't have it yet. When I get it, and if there is anything else to report, I'll do another posting.

Thanks all,

Rod Betts


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

Is there anything that you can't get at either McMaster-Carr or Grainger?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

DerekO said:


> Is there anything that you can't get at either McMaster-Carr or Grainger?


I'm not sure. Do they ship to Canada? If not, everything is what we can't get at either.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

World wide shipping

McMaster-Carr Help

=========


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

rodbetts said:


> Okay guys, here's the poop.
> 
> Evans Coatings has the right stuff but won't sell less than 25 lbs. The same stuff is sold through McMaster Carr only they sell in smaller quantities. The item number is 7762T44. It's called Hot-Melt Reusable Peel-Away Coating Style A. I bought 5 lbs. for $31.66 and I guess that includes shipping as they didn't add any shipping costs to the invoice. It is also available in other quantities. There are other styles but A or B are likely what you'd want to use.
> 
> ...


Hi Rod - 5 lbs should go a long way. I didn't notice it on the Evans website but McM says it is reusable. Just peel it off and toss it back in the pot... Kool.


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## Tommyt654 (Apr 5, 2009)

Hey Rod, I know this will sound to easy and cheap, but I keep a toilet bowl wax ring handy for all kinds of things in my shop and it works great for protection as well as lubing up wood screws and other things, just slip it over an old towel rack and keep an old sock handy for rubbing it on stuff, Way simple


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

I just don't get it, once you have that junk off why would you want to put it back on.

Now if you live in a jungle I could see putting it back on but other wise, it's very hard to see the true profile of the bits with that junk on..you can always use the hvy.plastic bags that many ship the bits in..I have 50 or so if you need some..

========

=======


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## rodbetts (Mar 12, 2010)

Just to answer a few questions & make a few comments:

1. I received the tool wax (I'll call it wax for want of better short name.) and it turns out that I lied in my last posting. McMaster Carr did add $6.00 to my credit card to cover shipping (total $37.66.)

2. Why would you use it - 1) Corrosion control, 2) Protect from damage if dropped etc., 3) sharp edges that if left exposed can cut & damage & and injure. 4) the wax is oily enough that I'm pretty sure, after a while, it would penetrate into router bit bearings keeping them well lubricated. As you know, oil seems to creep & crawl and get into everything so why not into router bit bearings? The stuff sure leaves a nice oily residue on router bits. I haven't seen a router bit or saw blade yet that won't rust given enough time and I live in a semiarid area.

3. I've used it and it works well. The melting point is 350 degrees (wish it was a bit lower.) I put it in a tin can and melted it with a propane torch but won't do so again, it's pretty messy & cumbersome. Tried an old kitchen slow cooker with water in it and the tin can set in the water. Didn't get hot enough. I may try a small electric frying pan if I can find one on eBay that's small enough, cheap enough, and deep enough. If not, I'll try for a used hot plate and small kitchen pan. You can buy melters but they're expensive.

4. Yes, although I haven't tried it yet, I'm sure the wax would be reusable and I intend to reuse it. There may be a limit to how many times it can be reheated. Time will tell.

5. Toilet wax rings? Sounds handy. It's not designed for rust control but could be helpful as long as there's not something in it that promotes damage or corrosion. I keep a wax furniture polish handy for cast iron surfaces etc. Likely does about the same thing.

6) Now the big question. Is it worth all bother and trouble? For some, the answer would certainly be no. For me --- the jury's still out but I have so much time, bother, and money invested that I'm committed.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

rodbetts said:


> For me --- the jury's still out but I have so much time, bother, and money invested that I'm committed.


So, that makes you an honest evaluator! If it's bad, it's got to be really bad for you to criticize it. Otherwise, you'll provide either unqualified support or qualified support.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

The toilet bowl wax ring is pure bee's wax. Won't hurt a thing....


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

I store my saw blades in Tupperware with a piece of cardboard between. Spray them with a little LPS or WD40 if corrosion is going to be a problem. You could always add a little camphor in a 35mm film cartriage with holes in it also.
Dan


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## argoknot (Dec 7, 2009)

Why a wax coating? You should look into BOESHIELD T-9 it's great stuff. I use it all the time. The amount of protection offsets the cost.

Penetrates deeply to seal out moisture. Specially formulated waterproof metal lubricant developed by Boeing Aircraft Co. that deeply penetrates metal pores and forms a protective barrier against rust build-up for up to 12 months. Non-fluorocarbon, ozone safe. Dries to a thin wax film in minutes to displace moisture and loosen rusted metal parts quickly and easily. Ideal for maintaining and storing hand tools, power tools, automobiles, marine equipment, or other items in your shop and home where moisture is a problem. No silicones to interfere with finish.


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## mightymax (Mar 1, 2012)

This is a questions I feel I can honestly answer!!! Who knew a 'newbie' could actually add anything useful! My father always used a good quality car wax both on his router table and fence. It made the wood slide through sooo much easier! One small tip... depending on how much use your particular router gets, you may need to clean the wax off periodically so it doesn't become too thick or 'gummy'. But if your router sees wood like my dad's did, this won't be an issue and even if it doesn't, the trade off of having a smooth run is well worth the 3 min. cleanup time!!!


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello!

Thank's to argonot!

Who make this BOESHIELD T-9 ?
Where' s the doc ? looks very good!
I'm making my own soup for rust protection:
I just make a mix of micronised zinc, purified sheep grease+ olive oil.

It works,but it's not fun, better buy it.

Regards


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Trend manufactures Tool & Bit cleaner. They claim this works well to prevent rust, removes resin build up and lets the bit or blade cut easier because of reduced friction. We will be putting this to the test at the International Sawdust Saturday event; Saturday May 26, 2012. I will post photos of the results.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Mike said:


> Trend manufactures Tool & Bit cleaner. They claim this works well to prevent rust, removes resin build up and lets the bit or blade cut easier because of reduced friction. We will be putting this to the test at the International Sawdust Saturday event; Saturday May 26, 2012. I will post photos of the results.


Salut Gerard,

Est-ce que tu a du alcool isopropylique disponible chez vous? Je utilise 99% pour nettoyer mes outils avec une petite brosse en laiton. Par chance tu la trouverai dans une brocante de domicile!!!! :dance3: Mais il y a rien meilleur que T9 pour la garde glissante et sans rouille.

Hi Gerard:

Do you have isopropyl alcohol available in your area? I use 99% to clean my tools with a small brass brush. Maybe you can find it in a garage sale. There is nothing better than T9 to keep a tool clean and slippery. 

Ron

BTW, I've updated and uploaded dust collection. To take a look there are a few "adjustments."


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello Ron!

Alcool methylic availlable.
Got a ready made super-solvant but don't use it much: 
a mix of isopropylic alcool and tetra-ethylène.
I also use cetone witch is highly flammable, dangerous and volatil but cleans.

One big problem is rust , I ve got sheds that are a bit damp, all my machines get rusty.
Been spraying car-oil, various species of anti-moisture, anti rust.
Nothing commercial works at the moment.
The mix with Zn works.It makes an electrolitic protection.
If water comes to metal , it saves the steel by oxydation of Zn.
I'd like to get it ready made , I' ll soon have no micronised Zn anymore.

I' ll reach for this T9.

Seen the dustcollection2.pdf today , getting better all the time, a work in progress...

Regards


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

ggom20 said:


> Hello Ron!
> 
> Alcool methylic availlable.
> Got a ready made super-solvant but don't use it much:
> ...


Bonjour Gerard,

C'est quoi votre climat? Est-ce que c'est humide? Est-ce que tu peut chauffer votre atelier? Ça aide beaucoup. J'ai bâtir l’électricité dans mon atelier et le premier chose que j'ai installé c’était le chauffage. Juste une petite affaire de 2000 watt mais c'est tous que j'ai besoin. Juste assay pour enlever l'humidité.

Hi Gerard:

What is your climate> It is humid? Can you heat your workshop? It helps a lot. I built electricity into my shop and the first thing to be installed was the heating. It is just a little 2000w heater but that's all that I need. Just enough to keep out the humidity.

Ok, ran out of French so I'll finish in English! :lazy2:

The Methyl Alcohol is usable but the 99% isopropyl alcohol is less hazardous and just as effective. It doesn't evaporate as quickly as acetone and is much cheaper. You can get it at most pharmacien.

I do recommend the T9 and if you have a real problem, cover the T9 with a good coat of floor wax. The thick paste wax that your mother used to use on the floor.

Yup, on the dust collection. Getting better but a ways to go. I'm hoping some of the other members will comment so I can finally put it to bed.

Talk soon, Gerard.

Ron


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello Ron!
Climate around Paris is Tempered, Winter can get to -15°c this year -10°c.
But it rains a lot and I live 2Km from a big river called "La Marne", my piece of land
is 9m above the river level, the water is 1.2m from the ground.(Been digging).
So that makes a very damp place.My sheds got no doors, my floors no concrete.
Got to work on my installation, started already with the good weather we got here those days.I'm about to make some concrete floors, got plenty doors and windows
from a friendly company that take old windows out and put brand new hight-tech ones.

When closed, I'll think about heating.

By now, rust still a problem.

Regards.

Gérard


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

*Anybody out there living in wet climates?*



ggom20 said:


> Hello Ron!
> Climate around Paris is Tempered, Winter can get to -15°c this year -10°c.
> But it rains a lot and I live 2Km from a big river called "La Marne", my piece of land
> is 9m above the river level, the water is 1.2m from the ground.(Been digging).
> ...


Hi Gerard:

I lost La Marne at Vitry-le-Francois. I don't know what department that is but that's pretty long and whoever laid out that river was drunk as a skunk. What's worse, they couldn't figure out where to put it so they dug a million pot holes just to confuse the issue; :dirol:

By comparison I live 1/2 hour from la Fleuve St. Laurent, proche de la ville de quebec. It used to flood and would wipe out entire towns and villages. Now, when there is major icing and they can't break up the ice, they send out blasting crews and cutters. These guys cut the ice into large blocks and float them away. If they get a major ice jam they have to blast.

Where I used to live it was about 10 feet from the river. We had an ice jam in front of the house. Talk about scary. The field on the other side of the river changed from a pasture into a lake, literally overnight. Then, just as quickly as it formed, it broke up. Talk about a racket. The noise was incredible. It sounded like continuous car accidents.

Sorry, I have no solution to your rust problem other than T9 and wax. You could use Tremclad paint on the unmachined surfaces and then T9 and wax on the machined surfaces. That might help. I'm grasping at straws here. I'm trying to think of almost anything that might help.

Anybody else out there in wet climates??

Ron


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"Anybody else out there in wet climates??"
!...rotflmao
The rust I can live with; it's the algae on my hands that's making me crazy.

"Sunday
Mainly cloudy with 40 percent chance of showers. Windy early in the morning. High 8.
Sunday night
Cloudy with 40 percent chance of showers in the evening and after midnight. Rain beginning overnight. Becoming windy overnight. Low plus 5.
Monday
Rain. Windy. High 8.
Tuesday
Showers. Low plus 4. High 9.
Wednesday
Cloudy with 60 percent chance of showers. Low plus 3. High 8.



-Dan
Wet Coast, B.C.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Dan:



DaninVan said:


> "Anybody else out there in wet climates??"
> !...rotflmao
> The rust I can live with; it's the algae on my hands that's making me crazy.
> 
> ...


Well at least on the rock they say if you don't like the weather turn around, it'll be different in a different direction.

So, the problem is quite simple. You can suffer from algae. That's easily resolved, wear gloves :lol: (Sorry about that, it's april fools day remember It's rust on the equipment that's the problem.

Rust is a perpetual topic here on the fora but Gerard near Paris has a real problem. He's on the flood plain of the La Marne river upstream of Paris. He's rebuilding his workshop and hoping to add "rust control" as part of the design. Any suggestions?

Dan I also need you to read the article on dust collection here...

http://www.routerforums.com/woodwor...-collection-updated-important.html#post274714

I'd appreciate any comments. 

Ron


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello!

Daninvan got definitly worse conditions than here!

I know there are solutions like T9 and my mix works too .

When I got installed here, there was my machines in place a lot to soon.

The problem is mine: Get up, work more!

Get the concrete done and put the doors and windows!

The shed I use was there and just made for keeping piles of wood and that's why.

Regards.


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## mr500 (Mar 27, 2012)

rodbetts said:


> Can anyone tell me what the wax that the sharpening folks use to coat resharpened router bits & saw blades with is called & where I can get some?
> 
> Thx.
> 
> Rod Betts


Being in the QC world, I have taps, thread gages, plug gages that are re-calibrated and they have the wax you are talking about on them. Also our re-sharpened tools have it. Its a sealing wax. Sealing wax is supplied in 1/4 pound sticks and packaged four sticks per pound box. Sealing wax is sold by the pound box. The current cost for sealing wax is about. $31.00 per box. PLus you need the pot to melt it in lol

I have known some people to actually use hot glue out of a hot glue gun. Its easier to get off and is a helluva lot cheaper.....


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Wrapping them with grease and oily newspaper or brown paper from paper bags 

works fine for me in my damp shed...

Been making a little part on my metal lathe 2 days ago,
took out cutting tools out of paper, they where fine, no rust.

Regards


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## dblanton (Jun 2, 2018)

You can find what you are looking for on evanscoatings.com - use Type 1 Coating for the best protection. This is for all kinds of router bits, drill bits - saw blades you name it. You will need a melting pot also located not the same website. It is expensive but worth it!


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Man, this is an old thread.


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

LOL, yep, 8 yrs. old. I bet the wax is taken care of already.


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## Roger D (May 22, 2018)

*What about using an inexpensive solder pot to melt the wax?*



rodbetts said:


> 3. I've used it and it works well. The melting point is 350 degrees (wish it was a bit lower.) I put it in a tin can and melted it with a propane torch but won't do so again, it's pretty messy & cumbersome. Tried an old kitchen slow cooker with water in it and the tin can set in the water. Didn't get hot enough. I may try a small electric frying pan if I can find one on eBay that's small enough, cheap enough, and deep enough. If not, I'll try for a used hot plate and small kitchen pan. You can buy melters but they're expensive.


Something like...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Soldering-...hash=item23a0280844:m:m07iQPAIerr9XMDhiG3ao-A
Provided the wax working temperature is in the range of the pot of course. You don't want to overheat the wax for safety reasons.

They have pots that also have lower temperature ranges as well.
Comes in 110V and 220V versions

Might be able to use a paraffin wax bath like...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Paraffin-B...877384?hash=item28552061c8:g:GIYAAOSwD4lasTNB


Roger


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

But it's just like the food processor. A couple of minutes to set up, a couple of minutes to shred 20 carrots, and a half hour to get all the carrot shreds out of the damned thing ;-)

I discovered the joy of having two router tables when I had to make cope and stick frames for my medicine cabinet doors. Set up one bit on one table the other bit on the other, move back and forth until they are perfect, and spend 5 minutes cutting all the pieces.

And leave it all set up until the job is finished and installed...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

> What about using an inexpensive solder pot to melt the wax?


crock pot..


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Here you go. These are for making your own bullets. They make several sizes.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Lee-Precision-Production-Pot-IV/24032129


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

crockpot...
no cooking or burning the wax...
https://www.target.com/p/crock-pot-...74-food-warmer-silver-32041-c-np/-/A-16391443


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

You know that Makers Mark bourbon has the top sealed in wax. You could save it up and save a little on wax costs. It has a pretty red color. And, like this thread, it's 8 years old too.


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## rodbetts (Mar 12, 2010)

*Been A While But Back Again*

Wow, this is a long thread. I kind of lost track of what was going on. Since I started this thread long ago, and found the answer to my question, I haven't been back. It's nice to see so many comments, questions, and answers.

As for me, I still use the protection wax I bought from McMaster Carr. I bought a hotplate on eBay and use a small old kitchen pot my wife abandoned years ago to melt it. It works great.

I was finally pushed out of my basement shop. I was completing my basement and trying to use it as a workshop both at the same time. I finally reached the point where renovations and shop tools could no longer coexist. The result was a nice new 20' x 30' woodworking shop, the cost of which my wife accepted as a necessary evil if her basement was ever to be reclaimed.

It a wonderful little shop with insulation, heat, bathroom, and other needed accoutrements, including a two stage dust collection system. After a contractor friend built the shell, I did the rest of the building myself. I even added a fridge to keep cold drinks in. I absolutely love it. Since I'm old and retired my beautiful wife thinks I'll die before I get enough use out of it to make it cost effective. That may be true but I'll die happy.

As a followup to one of my previous comments, I now have some eight or ten inexpensive eBay bought used routers setup with my most used bits and setting on shelves for easy access. I can grab one, make a few cuts, and have it back on the shelf in no time. This system is less expensive than you might think and, I my humble opinion, it's the only way to go. Life is good.

Thanks everyone for all you help and comments.

Rod


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