# Rotary tool with dust collection



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I unfortunalty already bought a Dewalt kit that includes both the drywall drill and the rotary tool . I want to cut out outlets in drywall , so I thought a rotary tool would be the way to go . 

But I wish I would have though of dust collection when I was buying the rotary tool , as drywall dust has to be one of the worst things you can deal with in a house . Can't take the other one back as I bought it last summer . 

I just googled it and found out that Rotozip does have dust collection . Does anyone have a preference for rotary tools for cutting out outlets in drywall and does it have a dust collection option? 
I may have to buy a Rotozip and do this twice  ,
or hold my hose up to the wall as I use my Dewalt and catch what dust I can . I can't seem to find any other rotary tools with dust collection 

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p....variable-speed-spiral-saw-kit.1000663837.html


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

I have one of the original rotozips. I bought the dust collection attachment for it and also the jigsaw handle. The dust collection works well. If you're nearby you can use it.....I'm in MA where are you? As you know, the rotozip has specific uses and sometimes it is the only tool that will do the job.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

should have gotten a multimaster and moved to the head of the class....
their dust extraction assembly really works...


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> should have gotten a multimaster and moved to the head of the class....
> their dust extraction assembly really works...


Who makes the dust extraction assembly for the multi tool. I have a Bosch tool.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

works for me.....


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Bill that's pretty funny lol, but I'm tired of measuring outlets and missing my mark so I wanted to try cutting outlets out with a rotary tool . I know most drywallers use them


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Rick,, you're still going to have to measure......

cutting the opening is the easy park. I'm a one here, one there kinda deal. Occasionally I'll do a room full. I've used a rotary
and found em to be pretty slick, just not my cup of tea....


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JIMMIEM said:


> Who makes the dust extraction assembly for the multi tool. I have a Bosch tool.


Fein...
don't believe there is one for the Bosch...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TheCableGuy said:


> Bill that's pretty funny lol, but I'm tired of measuring outlets and missing my mark so I wanted to try cutting outlets out with a rotary tool . I know most drywallers use them


is there a box already in place???


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Rick...I'm with Bill on this...if you're only doing boxes the saw is phenomenal...not a lot of dust flying around.

Rotaries have their use as do the Multimaster types...Multimaster can't cut circles but rotaries can't do any of the cuts one would buy a Multimaster for.

Don't know about rotaries but Feins have a real good dust attachment...

If you already have a rotary I would suggest buying a Fein next...you won't look back...yes, it's a little pricey but worth it...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Nickp said:


> Rick...I'm with Bill on this...if you're only doing boxes the saw is phenomenal...not a lot of dust flying around.
> 
> Rotaries have their use as do the Multimaster types...Multimaster can't cut circles but rotaries can't do any of the cuts one would buy a Multimaster for.
> 
> ...


I have a Fein multi tool , that one that oscillates, but I didn't know they made a rotary tool?





Stick486 said:


> is there a box already in place???


Yes there are many outlets to cut out on walls that haven't been drywalled yet


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TheCableGuy said:


> I have a Fein multi tool , that one that oscillates, but I didn't know they made a rotary tool?
> 
> Yes there are many outlets to cut out on walls that haven't been drywalled yet


http://www.amazon.com/RotoZip-DM5-Dust-Management-Kit/dp/B003BIFMII


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> http://www.amazon.com/RotoZip-DM5-Dust-Management-Kit/dp/B003BIFMII


Yes I seen this earlier for the Rotozip . Too bad it wouldn't fit Dewalts version ? 
Sure wish I bought the Rotozip the first time . I think HD may have it in stock , of course they won't have the dust extraction kit in stock , and I'm hoping to drywall this weekend


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TheCableGuy said:


> Yes I seen this earlier for the Rotozip . Too bad it wouldn't fit Dewalts version ?
> Sure wish I bought the Rotozip the first time . I think HD may have it in stock , of course they won't have the dust extraction kit in stock , and I'm hoping to drywall this weekend


so much for not buying Bosch...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> so much for not buying Bosch...


If Bosch had a DC system for there's I'd probably go that route


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TheCableGuy said:


> Yes I seen this earlier for the Rotozip . Too bad it wouldn't fit Dewalts version ?
> Sure wish I bought the Rotozip the first time . I think HD may have it in stock , of course they won't have the dust extraction kit in stock , and I'm hoping to drywall this weekend


where ya got ...
do they have a return policy for unhappy customers and you want better...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

yur hanging DW in the gitradge...
ain't'ja...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> where ya got ...
> do they have a return policy for unhappy customers and you want better...


This is kind of an independent where I bought my kit in the industrial side f town . I bought it last summer and the box hasn't been opened yet. I don't have a receipt either, just the transaction fee threw my banking . 
Maybe I'll try selling that combo kit on Kijiigii and buy the Rotozip .
I should have known Rotozip was a better system as they invented it I think


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> yur hanging DW in the gitradge...
> ain't'ja...


Nope lol , bathroom


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Bill has the answer, Rick, you are going to break a lot of bits doing it with the boxes installed. You will have to rout around the outside of the box and where the stud is you will hang up and make a messy hole that will require more taping and mudding. With a knife and saw , as you hang the board you will be better off. 

Have to watch with the rotozip that you don't nick the wires going to the boxes too. How many outlet you have in the bathroom?

Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> How many outlets you have in the bathroom?
> 
> Herb


one each...

hair dryer... 3 ea min...
toothbrush... rotary..
ultrasonic toothbrush...
water-pic..
curling iron... 4 ea min...
flattening iron... 2 ea min...
beard trimmer...
mustache trimmer..
side burn trimmer...
nail trimmer...
nail buffer...
wax heater...
make up mirror..
razor...
night light..
radio...
TV...
shoe buffer...
facial massager...
toilet bowel scrubber...

did I leave anything out Rick???


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Bill has the answer, Rick, you are going to break a lot of bits doing it with the boxes installed. You will have to rout around the outside of the box and where the stud is you will hang up and make a messy hole that will require more taping and mudding. With a knife and saw , as you hang the board you will be better off.
> 
> Have to watch with the rotozip that you don't nick the wires going to the boxes too. How many outlet you have in the bathroom?
> 
> Herb


he needs the learning curve because he has the garage to do yet...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Guys I wanted to also cut out the medicine cabinet hole and I'm not sure if you can use it on a doorway .
There's a vanity light to cut in ,and two outlets and a three gang switch . Then there's the office to do next with multiple outlets . Then the garage


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> Bill has the answer, Rick, you are going to break a lot of bits doing it with the boxes installed. You will have to rout around the outside of the box and where the stud is you will hang up and make a messy hole that will require more taping and mudding. With a knife and saw , as you hang the board you will be better off.
> 
> Have to watch with the rotozip that you don't nick the wires going to the boxes too. How many outlet you have in the bathroom?
> 
> Herb


I know it's dangerous around wires . You have to tuck them in quite well before you proceed . I've seen contractors damage wires with there rotozips at condos when they were careless


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

drywall saw for the doorway of score and snap..


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> drywall saw for the doorway of score and snap..


This is the router forum,Stick, no sense doing the easy way when a router will do it the hard way. 

Rick you must like to tape. It is not the wires IN the boxes but the ones outside going in, because you have to route around the outside of the bx so that the box goes thru the hole and flushes to the room side. Hope they are plastic boxes, metal boxes love router bits. Be sure to route in the right direction too or before you know it you will be in the next stud space. 

Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

check that...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*The Plan!*



Stick486 said:


> is there a box already in place???


There better be! The Electrical Inspector is going to be really annoyed if the drywall goes up before the wiring is done and inspected.
The Rotozip is designed for cutting very close to whatever outlet shape is involved...the perfect tool. If done carefully there's no need to fill around the boxes, although I do that anyway. (Give me a trowel and stand back!  )

Rick; make sure your wiring is well back from the back of the drywall, and away from the outlet boxes' interior walls. Power to the cct. off!!:sold:!


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## katabrontes (Nov 12, 2014)

Try something like this

https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/FXDADE.html

This one is from a UK website but I am sure something similar would be available in US. Much cheaper than starting again, less work than a hand saw and less messy than the dustpan.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I only do the occasional bit of dry walling. Often mess up the outlet openings. I've been thinking about using a bit of white paint on the rim of the outlet box, then pressing the drywall up against it and using the mark to cut out the opening. Is that a workable solution? Thought I'd ask those who know.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DesertRatTom said:


> I only do the occasional bit of dry walling. Often mess up the outlet openings. I've been thinking about using a bit of white paint on the rim of the outlet box, then pressing the drywall up against it and using the mark to cut out the opening. Is that a workable solution? Thought I'd ask those who know.


That might work ,Tom never seen it done, maybe a blue chalk stick rubbed around the hole and press the board against it would do too. Or do like the pieceorker dry wall guys do and beat it with a hammer. I just stand the board next to the outlet and measure and mark and use a drywall saw like Bill showed and poke it thru and saw it out. I have seen guys use a saber saw,or sawzall too. A trim router with a panel bit,or dry wall bit, a utility knife will do it too. I think the drywall saw is the best for small jobs like Rick is doing.

Herb


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## senebraskaee (Apr 29, 2012)

I have used a cheap lipstick from the dollar store for this (my wife gets all huffy if I borrow hers!). It is in its own container, leaves a very visible mark, and one does many boxes. Just smear it on the perimeter edge of the box, press the drywall against it, and then I use a drywall saw and make the cut. Quick and accurate.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> one each...
> 
> hair dryer... 3 ea min...
> toothbrush... rotary..
> ...


ahh man, now that just ain't right!!!:surprise: manscaping?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I need mind bleach...STAT!!


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> one each...
> 
> hair dryer... 3 ea min...
> toothbrush... rotary..
> ...


So, what goes on the other 200 amp service?:surprise:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I could kick myself for not buying these magnets earlier . Great idea IMO


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> I only do the occasional bit of dry walling. Often mess up the outlet openings. I've been thinking about using a bit of white paint on the rim of the outlet box, then pressing the drywall up against it and using the mark to cut out the opening. Is that a workable solution? Thought I'd ask those who know.


lay a piece of ply on the outside of the DW over the outlet box...
rap w/ hammer to indent/print the inside of the DW for location...

hit it too hard and you'll be remounting the box...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

senebraskaee said:


> I have used a cheap lipstick from the dollar store for this (my wife gets all huffy if I borrow hers!). It is in its own container, leaves a very visible mark, and one does many boxes. Just smear it on the perimeter edge of the box, press the drywall against it, and then I use a drywall saw and make the cut. Quick and accurate.


What an excuse for coming home with lipstick smears all over your shirt.LOL 

Just kidding, good idea.
Herb


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

DesertRatTom said:


> I only do the occasional bit of dry walling. Often mess up the outlet openings. I've been thinking about using a bit of white paint on the rim of the outlet box, then pressing the drywall up against it and using the mark to cut out the opening. Is that a workable solution? Thought I'd ask those who know.





Herb Stoops said:


> That might work ,Tom never seen it done, maybe a blue chalk stick rubbed around the hole and press the board against it would do too. Or do like the pieceorker dry wall guys do and beat it with a hammer. I just stand the board next to the outlet and measure and mark and use a drywall saw like Bill showed and poke it thru and saw it out. I have seen guys use a saber saw,or sawzall too. A trim router with a panel bit,or dry wall bit, a utility knife will do it too. I think the drywall saw is the best for small jobs like Rick is doing.
> 
> Herb


Tom
I think the rotozips and the like are OK for the guys that need to get the job done quickly where time is money.

Anytime I've done drywalling, I've either pressed the drywall against the box enough to dent it, then cut the opening, or just measured, marked and cut with a drywall saw. Never considered it a race.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

schnewj said:


> So, what goes on the other 200 amp service?:surprise:


Needs another transformer just for the bathroom.

Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Amen, Vince. The trick I learned from my drywall contractor was to hold the drywall saw at an angle to the face of the board so the the rear of the board actually had a larger opening than the face. Way less chance of breaking the board around the opening.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> So, what goes on the other 200 amp service?:surprise:


you knew there was a reason for the 200 amp service...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TwoSkies57 said:


> ahh man, now that just ain't right!!!:surprise: manscaping?


for some it is...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

The magnet thing is overkill, Rick. Measuring tape and drywall T square.
Place your long measurement...from the last finished edge...onto the edge of the board, and drop the two perimeters down. You'll take the other two cross heights off the T square B.I. rule.
The T square is, or should be, pretty close to a single gang box width.
I try to be close to a 1/16" but an 1/8" is just fine for boarding.
Ceiling than Top boards...horizontally...than measure down to the floor. Allow at least 3/8" - 1/2" clearance at the bottom. If the house settles at all, and there's no clearance, it'll likely buckle the mid ht. joint.
Why run the board horizontally? 
-way less cutting to fit framing
-when you're taping/filling, you can reach everything but the top ft. or so. ie you do that top foot and the ceiling off your plank or stilts, then get them out of the way and do the rest standing on your feet.
If you go vertically your vertical seams are far longer than the single horizontal run at 4'. (Unless of course you're talking about a small closet, under 4' on each side. Even then, getting 8' tall panels into a small enclosed space is no fun!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Actually I never thought of using my T-square to help with measuring . Still kinda choked I didn't get those dam magnets though


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> The magnet thing is overkill, Rick. Measuring tape and drywall T square.
> Place your long measurement...from the last finished edge...onto the edge of the board, and drop the two perimeters down. You'll take the other two cross heights off the T square B.I. rule.
> The T square is, or should be, pretty close to a single gang box width.
> I try to be close to a 1/16" but an 1/8" is just fine for boarding.
> ...


I like to stand my sheets vertical. A lot easier for me to stand the sheet, step on a jack and raise the sheet then tack it off., than to horse a sheet horizontal and hold it while trying to tack it in place. 
I even did ceilings alone by balancing the board on top of my head, not my favorite tho. Also tried installing the bottom row first and setting the top piece resting on top of that, but then you have a cut edge against the ceiling instead of against the floor and makes taping harder.
As far as taping the joint between panels, taping verticle is easier for me. 
I guess it is all those years of commercial work where all the gyp board is run vertical.
So what it boils down to is what ever suits you and is esiest, I guess.

Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Herb; If I'm working by myself:
Ceiling--- I temporarily screw a couple of scrap pieces of 1 x 4 to the wall studs about 5/8"- 3/4" down and running horizontally.
Out from my starting wall, on the ceiling joists a couple of scrap wood cleats temporarily screwed with a 5/8" or 3/4" spacer behind each one. Leave enough space so that you can place the wall edge of the board on the stud cleats, then raise the opposite side up to the ceiling joists and rotate the ceiling cleats into place holding the full board up tight. Adjust its position if necessary (it always is) then screw it off.
Next ceiling sheet: two more scraps of 1 x 4 at the outer edge and two more of the spacer type, maybe 49" out...enough clearance that you can swing the sheet up without hitting the cleats when they're turned to the 'open' position.
Walls...measure down from the ceiling 48 1/2" and lay out a chalk line perfectly level along the wall. measure back up an make sure the ceiling line is 48 1/2" along it's length. Temporarily screw a couple of short 1 x 4 cleats to the studs with the top line of each on the chalk line. Not using a long piece of scrap allows you to get your hands into the stud spaces to push up the board up tight to the ceiling.
Do all the upper panels first, then the ower panels taking your vertical measurements down from the bottom edge of the top sheets.
On an 8' finished clg. this'll put your wall switches right at the joint between the upper and lower boards. 

Making up a couple of 8'+ 'T' braces to hold the clg. panels tight to the joists is a big help and takes the strain off your head and neck while fastening the board.


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## LazurusLong (Jan 20, 2015)

You will really be better off with a sheetrock saw and a dustpan. For the money you'll spend,it's not worth it. Unless of course you plan to do more sheetrock work in the future...


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## LazurusLong (Jan 20, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> he needs the learning curve because he has the garage to do yet...


 Start in the garage...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

LazurusLong said:


> Start in the garage...


Gee we got a new guy and he's already aware of the garage issue lol


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## furboo (Oct 12, 2015)

Great thread. Rick, I have to agree that the magnets are pretty cool, and I wouldn't have minded having them this past weekend. I had 2 switch boxes and a light box on one 5/8" sheet. I got it lined up ok, but wish I had read this thread beforehand. At least the multimaster made the cuts easy...that tool is awesome.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

furboo said:


> Great thread. Rick, I have to agree that the magnets are pretty cool, and I wouldn't have minded having them this past weekend. I had 2 switch boxes and a light box on one 5/8" sheet. I got it lined up ok, but wish I had read this thread beforehand. At least the multimaster made the cuts easy...that tool is awesome.


Rob I ordered them and am hoping there going to be here by the weekend , but it may be wishful thinking


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I heard about these magnets but I mean, what's the attraction?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

...that was a polish joke.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I hate having to explain puns.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> I hate having to explain puns.


if you'd correct your spelling....


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hah! Pot & kettle...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Thanks guys, I'll try the lipstick trick next time. Sounds like a good plan.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DesertRatTom said:


> Thanks guys, I'll try the lipstick trick next time. Sounds like a good plan.


I tried carbon paper and it didn't work well . I'd be weary of lipstick getting on everything.

I'll post a couple pics when I try the magnets . Once I draw the line around the magnet I'm going to cut the it out with my Fein oscillating tool as I'm a little nervous about my rotary tool hitting the wires in the box . I'll use it on my fan hole and medicine cabinet hole instead


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"I'd be weary of lipstick getting on everything."
-Rick

*Lips zipped!* 


(Best straight line of the week!!!)


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> "I'd be weary of lipstick getting on everything."
> -Rick
> 
> *Lips zipped!*
> ...


Omg , I've gotta quit leaving myself open with this group :lol:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TheCableGuy said:


> Omg , I've gotta quit leaving myself open with this group :lol:


well...
that closes that pool...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> well...
> that closes that pool...


You know ,come to think of it you may be right


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## hoangtrong001cho (Jan 12, 2016)

where is it...???


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