# Multitool vs reciprocating saw



## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

So yesterday I bought a small Milwaukee m12 reciprocating saw. I need it for cutting back sheathing near a ridge board in a cabin I'm building (measure once, cut twice), to create more of an air gap for a vent cap I'm putting up. The guy at the store was suggesting I go for a Fein multitool instead. I've always thought multitools were kind of the 2nd best tool for the job, and for this job I couldn't see myself overhead cutting through about 30 linear feet of 3/4" plywood with one so I went for the recip saw. 

That said, I was wondering what you guys thought of these multi tools - the number of attachments is quite impressive. The sales guy was really into them.


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## Harrison67 (May 30, 2012)

One of my neighbors brought over his HF model Multi tool. It seemed to do the job, but if I ever buy one; I'll probably get the Fein.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Limited experience for me...
1. Early this year, using gift cards and a discount, i bought a Craftsman Nextec version with little money out of my own pocket. Handy tool, but seems to bog easily and the batteries are a PITA to switch (clips seem to not press in far enough to release easily). Lots of attachments, but a little pricey. You can definitely tell it's vibrating when you flip the swith (but when i put my fillings back in i used Gorilla Glue and haven't had a problem since!!)

2. In June i went to pick up a 6 x 48 belt sander that i bought on Craigslist (for $50--and runs great). The guy had an early Fein detail sander, the immediate predecessor to their multitool. I had no interest until he plugged it in and i turned it on. Incredibly smooth and quiet. I gave him $30, came home and bought an adapter which allows the use of the Fein attachments. Blades and such are still pricey, but the Fein stuff i've used holds up MUCH better than Sears. Corded and weighs a ton, but an incredibly easy tool to work with.

Over the past 20 years i've used my reciprocating saw (hereafter called my "RS") for some tasks that i don't think i'd use a multi-tool for--cutting 6 x 6's, tree roots to facilitate diggiing post holes (probably could have used a keyhole saw, but at 90 deg F with 36 holes to dig by hand--seemed like a good idea at the time!!). On the other hand--the multi-tool has been a great "detail" tool for me--trimming the bottoms of moulding, flush-cutting old screws, small notches for poorly planned swivel casters, etc. 

I'm blessed to have both--and in my opinion each has its rightful place depending on the job at hand. For a 30' lineal cut in plywood--i think you made an excellent choice in which to buy first!!


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

My HF multitool would do the job, but it would take a long time to do it.
The recip saw was a better choice, and circular being the best.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobbotron said:


> So yesterday I bought a small Milwaukee m12 reciprocating saw. I need it for cutting back sheathing near a ridge board in a cabin I'm building (measure once, cut twice), to create more of an air gap for a vent cap I'm putting up. The guy at the store was suggesting I go for a Fein multitool instead. I've always thought multitools were kind of the 2nd best tool for the job, and for this job I couldn't see myself overhead cutting through about 30 linear feet of 3/4" plywood with one so I went for the recip saw.
> 
> That said, I was wondering what you guys thought of these multi tools - the number of attachments is quite impressive. The sales guy was really into them.


Hi Rob - I'm gonna take a wild guess that your sales guy works on commission. I've got the Dremel flavor of the thing, wish I did have the Fein sometimes though. Great tool for a lot of tasks but cutting 30 ft of sheathing wouldn't be one of them. I've used it for everything from cutting out plumbing to removing old window glazing to plunge cutting out small sections of trim to doing some detail sanding..If you are building a cabin, you will eventually find a need for one but this job you described wouldn't be it.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

I feel you made the right choice with the reciprocating saw. 30 feet -- Yes. I've used my 2 for various things on many jobs, for years.

A multi-tool? Honestly that's one tool I don't have and I haven't used yet. I have NOT bought one as I never felt they were heavy enough to do what I do or to last on a jobsite. Yes, I too thought of it is a detail type of tool, but I already have other tools for "details."

Am I wrong with that?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Rob; I've had a Porter Cable RS for years; the punishment it's been through is truly impressive. It's never given me any reason to regret buying it. A real workhorse.
The multi tool is/was NOT the right tool for the job! I am curious as to why you didn't just use your circ. saw though? Were you cutting from below (the interior)?
Another route you could have gone with is using a 1/2" drill with a big spade bit...say 1 1/4"... drilling maybe three holes per joist space each side of the ridge.


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## crowie (Apr 14, 2011)

*An experience from Down Under.....*

I've got a 24v Bosch Blue Reciprocating Saw plus 10.8v Bosch Blue MultiTool.....
Both great tools and both are for very different applications..
The MultiTool is great for fine work, especially toymaking which is what I really enjoy.
I agree with the comment that the replacement blades, etc are still expensive.
The Reciprocating Saw is a big tool for the bigger jobs around the building site or home renos.
Cheers, crowie


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## edroelle (Jun 10, 2012)

Right tool for the job.

But, I am surprised that more of you have not raved about the multitool. Exceptionally versatile. I have used it to cut electrical outlet holes, clean-up excess wood in corners when flooring, cutting door moldings when flooring, scraping old caulk off a motorhome ...

Good for shorter cuts, not long one.

Ed


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## Maroonram (Jul 10, 2012)

*Multitool vs. Reciprocating saw*

I have both a Fein multitool and a Milwaukee reciprocating saw. They're two different tools for different purposes. The Fein is the most useful tool I have. It can do so many things and get into so many places that other tools can't.

If I have a lot of heavy duty straight cutting I'll use my Milwaukee, but if I am working in tight angles or doing anything with trim removal I'll use the Fein. 

Beyond the sawing aspect there are so many other attachments with the Fein. If you're looking to buy a multitool be aware that there are many knock offs that might be okay for weekend home use, but almost every contractor I know stays with the Fein for commercial use. It's a real quality, heavy duty tool.


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## tooler2 (Aug 11, 2012)

The Fein is an absolutely fabulous tool. Once you have had one you can not live without one. I have a couple of knock-offs as well, they are OK for little jobs (like starting the slot for your recipro saw), but they don't make me smile when I turn them on like the Fein.Last week I cut a frozen chicken in half lengthwise with a 1.5'' blade. It took about a minute and even the bag of giblets was neatly severed.
Rob


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

About all the heating and air guys around here seem to love DeWalt multitools over any other brand. Not tried any myself, I've got electricity in my shop, so never figured I needed any.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Well let me chime in, the RS will cut a lot faster but it can't compete for the finer cutting that the Mulimaster can do. One of the nicest cuts is when you are cutting a hole in a wood lath and plaster wall to put a new electrical box in. Using a keyhole saw often pulls on the lath and breaks the plaster out with it. As mentioned earlier and mulitool will work for the smaller jobs but if you want something with power get the Fein. Look around because bargains can be found. I was just able to get the latest model Fmm 250 for $161 delivered.I then picked up a set of 13 blades for $39 dollars.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

hi

I also have one it's not a high end one,it's just a HF one but it works for me it's a tool that you will not use all the time but when you need the fine cut like on bottom of a door frame you can't beat it..or to put a elec.box, etc. I had to use on a 2 x 4 in a wall and I was amazed how well it did and didn't make a mess like a RS would make..

I would say all wood workers need to have a Mulimaster in the tool box.. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-lithium-ion-multifunction-power-tool-67707.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/variable-speed-multifunction-power-tool-67537.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/oscillating-multifunction-power-tool-68861.html

See demo video▼
http://www.harborfreight.com/variable-speed-multifunction-power-tool-67537.html

==


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> Rob; I've had a Porter Cable RS for years; the punishment it's been through is truly impressive. It's never given me any reason to regret buying it. A real workhorse.
> The multi tool is/was NOT the right tool for the job! I am curious as to why you didn't just use your circ. saw though? Were you cutting from below (the interior)?
> Another route you could have gone with is using a 1/2" drill with a big spade bit...say 1 1/4"... drilling maybe three holes per joist space each side of the ridge.


Hey Dan. Cool, good to know. I really didn't think the multitool made sense for my job, but having never used one I wasn't sure. This definitely isn't going to be fine work. It's going to be an overhead cut, and my circ saw is a 15amp tank, and I'll be cutting near a ridge board, I needed something narrower to get up there. Also, our generator is in the shop, so the corded tools are out for now. :O

Not a bad idea about drilling some holes. That at least might get me a bit more room to get started with the saw...


Ps: as an aside, this is router forums right? Don't we already have the original multi tool?


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

mgmine said:


> Well let me chime in, the RS will cut a lot faster but it can't compete for the finer cutting that the Mulimaster can do. One of the nicest cuts is when you are cutting a hole in a wood lath and plaster wall to put a new electrical box in. Using a keyhole saw often pulls on the lath and breaks the plaster out with it. As mentioned earlier and mulitool will work for the smaller jobs but if you want something with power get the Fein. Look around because bargains can be found. I was just able to get the latest model Fmm 250 for $161 delivered.I then picked up a set of 13 blades for $39 dollars.


Fast is going to be good for this job. It'll either be on the top of a ladder, or the ridge of a roof.


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## MorrisonCharles (Feb 13, 2009)

*Multitool*

Multitool are great. They work quick and will do a lot of task that are hard to do with anything else. Everyone should have a multitool. However, 30 feet of ridge row that you want to cut is not a task that I would pick for this tool. I thing you do right with your purchase of the saw.


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## CGeorge1 (Oct 14, 2004)

*Multi-Tool vs. Reciprocating saw*

I concur. For the task you described the reciprocating saw is the way to go, and is much faster then using the Multi-tool on that type of job.
I also agree that the Multi-tool is a fantastic addition to your tool box. I bought a Craftsmen with the new lithium batteries and for several tasks that I used it on it was much easier, neater, and almost as fast as trying to use a scroll or sabre saw. The new type batteries are very powerful, last a long time, and recharge much quicker then the traditional NMh batteries. One of the first tasks I used it on was to cut the opening in our back door for a doggy door and aside from the unexpected speed, it laft a great cutout without any need for trimming and cleaning. I also used it on a 4" diameter pipe that needed repainting because of its outdoor exposure. The sanding adapter was the better answer than doing it by hand or running an extension cord for my palm sander. Trimming baseboards is a perfect job for it. It's not for everything but for where it can be used its great.



morrisonc said:


> Multitool are great. They work quick and will do a lot of task that are hard to do with anything else. Everyone should have a multitool. However, 30 feet of ridge row that you want to cut is not a task that I would pick for this tool. I thing you do right with your purchase of the saw.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Holy Hanna*



bobbotron said:


> Fast is going to be good for this job. It'll either be on the top of a ladder, or the ridge of a roof.



Hey Rob; I thought about the _task _rather than the tool and I want to backtrack. 
With your snow-loads you probably shouldn`t compromise the structural integrity of the roof system by severing the sheathing tie-in to the ridge. Drilling vent holes up through the sheathing is all you need to do. The air circulation from the eaves up and out will be more than sufficient to prevent condensation on the underside of the sheathing...as long as you leave a couple of inches of airspace between the top of the insulation and the sheathing underside.
You can do the drilling from below. As I said earlier 3 holes per joist space should be more than enough.
If there`s any doubt whatsoever about the insulation to sheathing clearance than use the Styrofoam vent sheets (looks like a wavy sheet of styrofoam).
insulate roof foam baffles ventilation - YouTube


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## TRBaker (Jul 5, 2012)

I agree, Bob. The cheaper multi-tools don't hold up on the professional level. I'm saving now for a Fein. My Dremel bit the dust in less than six months, but I use the heck out of it. I found the sanding and scraping attachments are some of the most useful, as well as controlled cutting into drywall where possible pipes or wires may be just waiting for a saw tooth to hit them. Like Ed said, they are great for putting in flooring when you need to trim jambs and door casing and I've used them quite often for adding electrical boxes in cabinets where no other saw has access.


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

First I've heard of doing it this way. I've always read of you just not butting the sheathing right up to the ridge. I'm just going to be adding about an extra 1" of gap on either side at the top. I think it'll be ok?

Like this:










We had left a gap, but it's very wee with the ridge board in place.



DaninVan said:


> Hey Rob; I thought about the _task _rather than the tool and I want to backtrack.
> With your snow-loads you probably shouldn`t compromise the structural integrity of the roof system by severing the sheathing tie-in to the ridge. Drilling vent holes up through the sheathing is all you need to do. The air circulation from the eaves up and out will be more than sufficient to prevent condensation on the underside of the sheathing...as long as you leave a couple of inches of airspace between the top of the insulation and the sheathing underside.
> You can do the drilling from below. As I said earlier 3 holes per joist space should be more than enough.
> If there`s any doubt whatsoever about the insulation to sheathing clearance than use the Styrofoam vent sheets (looks like a wavy sheet of styrofoam).
> insulate roof foam baffles ventilation - YouTube


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

bobbotron said:


> First I've heard of doing it this way. I've always read of you just not butting the sheathing right up to the ridge. I'm just going to be adding about an extra 1" of gap on either side at the top. I think it'll be ok?
> 
> Like this:
> 
> ...


I have installed that type of roof vent in. (Love them!) Yes, not a structural problem, because the sheathing usually lays on trusses, not on beams. Only a small gap needed...

But I use a circular saw for cutting that. Set depth. Snap a line and cut. Takes hardly any time at all.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Mike; the issue is 'snow load'...not an issue where you are but a huge consideration where Rob lives. If I'm not mistaken his load, from the CMHC schedule, is 100Lbs per sq. foot(?) live and dead loads.
Tying the roof sheathing into the ridge on both slopes helps prevent the rafters from pulling away from the ridge under extreme loads (sagging).

Rob; you have a flat ceiling on joists sitting on your top plates? Clear attic space above the insulation? Why not just put in a couple of gable vents and avoid the issue entirely?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Rob; it occurred to me after I posted that last comment that yes, you have a point.
In the dim past, ridge boards were basically to hold the rafters in place until the shiplap was applied. Now, the code seems to actually consider the ridge as structural. And it seems that most roofs now have 2x4 sleepers under the sheathing. Where I am, the Inspectors get all moist when they see a big honkin' ridge beam.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Dan-

You're right Dan. We don't have that much snow load here and it shows in the cades. I think we got about 2-3 feet at one time within 2 hours, last winter in a storm, but that's abnormal for here. And it showed with the damage it caused. Our local codes doesn't reflect abnormal for here. 

So adding 2x stringers to add strength back in?

Oh wait... If a "big honkin" ridge beam, what actual airflow would you actually get around it/above it... if the sheathing is nailed off to it? It would be sealed right? If so, then that type of vent wouldn't work would it?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Good point, Mike. Since the condo rot explosion, the Code mandarins have been trying to come up with workable solutions. Trouble here in the Great White North is that the climate characteristics are so variable; think N. Dakota vs Florida. 
Here on the West Coast everything is warm and wet for at least 8 months. Very little snow (Snow Load factor of 60 Lbs. per sq. ft. or the metric equivalent). 50 mi. N.E. of me, at Whistler, it'd be something like Rob's climate...just not that cold.
In Ft. St. John, 800 mi. North of me, they'd easily be as cold as Rob but no where near the snow accumulation. 20 mi. to the West, on Mt. Washington, I believe they had something like 50' of snow last Winter.
Trying to come up with a one-solution-fits-all is just not workable. 
But yes, 2x4 sleepers allows for cross ventilation through the roof soffits; basically eliminates the ridge vent issue.


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

Ahoy. Valid points, but too late, I started cutting it back. I think it'll be ok.

This is a ridge board, not beam. The difference is that one provides a nailing surface for rafters, the other one is a structural beam that supports the weight of the roof, preventing rafter/wall spread - unfortunately, lots of people mix the word ridge board and beam up, blurring the meaning. In my case, I would have had to use 3 2x10s to make a ridge beam. 

Egads, I suppose the rafter could pull out from the ridge beam under load, but that'd be pretty excessive!

It's a cathedral ceiling (never again) so I can't use those roof top or gable end vents..


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Airtight Case*



bobbotron said:


> Ahoy. Valid points, but too late, I started cutting it back. I think it'll be ok.
> 
> This is a ridge board, not beam. The difference is that one provides a nailing surface for rafters, the other one is a structural beam that supports the weight of the roof, preventing rafter/wall spread - unfortunately, lots of people mix the word ridge board and beam up, blurring the meaning. In my case, I would have had to use 3 2x10s to make a ridge beam.
> 
> ...


Yikes! I hope you ran 2x4 sleepers (purlins) across! You need a 3" clear airspace above the top of your insulation. Absolutely essential. The sleepers (purlins) give the cross venting, and air/moisture leaves though the soffit under the gabled roof ends. No necessity for either gable wall vents or ridge vents.
A lot, probably the majority, of new roof construction are trusses making this topic even more convoluted.
If you have a cathedral ceiling, and as I recall from the pictures about 6/12 pitch, and you _don't_ have a ridge beam (and supporting studs) what did you do about collar ties? With your snow load, and no ridge beam, the weight will force the outside walls apart like a hydraulic jack, unless you have ceiling joists tying the rafter pairs together, but then that sort of rules out the cathedral ceiling... 
Rob, here's a couple of pics attached from my old '94 Cdn. Home Bldrs. Assoc. of BC Code and Construction Guide.


See diagram. pg 13
http://www.uaf.edu/files/ces/publications-db/catalog/eeh/HCM-00559.pdf


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

Hey Dan.

We are doing collar ties every other rafter, it's a 12/12 roof (steep!) There's a loft on one half of it, it's thoroughly tied together on that end with the bottom end of the truss cords.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Right; carry on!


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## k9ceno (May 14, 2012)

I have a craftsman nextec multi tool and use it all the time. It does vibrate alot and once you master that it works great. Like anything else, right blade for the right material, cuts drywall and wood like a butter knife. The only problem i see with it is the battery has a short life but it does charge quick. I don't think you can go wrong with it.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

bobbotron said:


> So yesterday I bought a small Milwaukee m12 reciprocating saw. I need it for cutting back sheathing near a ridge board in a cabin I'm building (measure once, cut twice), to create more of an air gap for a vent cap I'm putting up. The guy at the store was suggesting I go for a Fein multitool instead. I've always thought multitools were kind of the 2nd best tool for the job, and for this job I couldn't see myself overhead cutting through about 30 linear feet of 3/4" plywood with one so I went for the recip saw.
> 
> That said, I was wondering what you guys thought of these multi tools - the number of attachments is quite impressive. The sales guy was really into them.


I have had a Fein for more years than I will admit to...it is NOT the tool for all jobs but it is the only tool for certain detail or close work. Think of it as a torque wrench...ya don't use it all the time but when you need it nothing else will do it. And don't go for the cheap blades if you get the Fein...they just don't work as well or last as long. The Fein also seems to fit the hand better (at least for my liking) than any of the others. The quick change lever is the best...other models use screws/Allen's. I have used it for Sheetrock detail, molding cuts in place, replacing door sills with door in place, tile, grout...the plunge cutting is fantastic for in place cutting...cutting through bolts between pieces of timber, cutting drywall nails/screws to replace studs...and on and on...I have even lifted linoleum tiles off entire kitchen floors.
If you do get one let the blade do the work...don't fight it...
It's worth the money to go for the Fein (IMHO)...


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