# How to make cavities w/router



## ed1016 (Nov 16, 2009)

I'm going to be making some Cribbage Boards out of exotic woods 5/4 or 6/4" thick.
I want to rout a cavity in the bottom of the board for storage of cards and pegs. I have two ideas:
1. Rout the cavity then rout a 1/8" groove around the cavity to insert a removable bottom of 1/8" Baltic Plywood glued to an end cap. If I choose this method, what is the best way to rout the cavity without danger of damaging the wood (or me)? 

2. Mortise the end of the board deep and wide enough to house the cards, with an end cover held on with imbedded magnets. With this method, how do I make the hole?

I have a table mounted router and am a novice with a router, they've always scared me.
Any ideas on how to do this safely would be appreciated.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

*methods*

There are multiple methodologies that may be utilized to divest the feline of its epidural enclosure. (More than one way to skin the cat.) 

My approach would be to use a template and guide bushing combo with a hand-held plunge router for the surface cavity, along with a jig to hold the work piece. To do an end-grain mortise, I'd set up a mortising jig that also used a guide bushing, and use a plunge router. Doing a mortise deep enough for a deck of cards might be an issue, though. If so, I'd further deepen the hole using chisels, I'd guess.

Doing slide-in cover panels makes it a little more of a challenge, since you'd need to route a little groove inside the cavity for the edge of the lid. A horizontal slot-cutting bit with an edge-guide bearing could do that, if the cavity was of sufficient size. 

Another, perhaps safer, approach would be to reduce the surface height of the board around where the cavity will go, rabbet the inside edges of a thin U-shaped cover panel that would accept the sliding lid, and then glue the panel on top of the board. Again, a template, guide bushing and material-holding jig would be my approach.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

I think I would do it just like the a bowl below, but don't go to deep so you have a pock hole for the cards, just cut off on the band saw,cut the hole pocket out for the card hole and than glue it back in place, than drill all you can than plunge out the rest.

Router Forums - View Single Post - how to make circles for hand held mirrors

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ed1016 said:


> I'm going to be making some Cribbage Boards out of exotic woods 5/4 or 6/4" thick.
> I want to rout a cavity in the bottom of the board for storage of cards and pegs. I have two ideas:
> 1. Rout the cavity then rout a 1/8" groove around the cavity to insert a removable bottom of 1/8" Baltic Plywood glued to an end cap. If I choose this method, what is the best way to rout the cavity without danger of damaging the wood (or me)?
> 
> ...


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## chayside (Nov 13, 2010)

*RE: Cavity*

Hello Ed, try Square chisel mortiser
The square chisel mortiser (also called hollow chisel mortiser), in a drill press, combines the cutting of a four-sided chisel with the action of a drill bit in the center. The bit clears out most of the material to be removed, and the chisel ensures the edges are straight and clean. Don't have any experience with a router nut seems pretty deep for a router.











Regards Richard:moil:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I was also going to suggest that also but he must buy more tools for the drill press if has good one on hand ..and all for one hole, a bit over kill I think, but he can get a router bit 4" long but more money out the window for just one hole..

Amazon.com: DELTA 17-924 Mortising Attachment with 1/4 Inch, 5/16 Inch, 3/8 Inch, and 1/2 Inch Chisel and Bit Sets: Home Improvement

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Amazon.com: DELTA 17-924 Mortising Attachment with 1/4 Inch, 5/16 Inch, 3/8 Inch, and 1/2 Inch Chisel and Bit Sets: Home Improvement


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## chayside (Nov 13, 2010)

Hello again Ed, just thought some more. You could use a drill rasp. These drill saws can be used to drill pilot holes in material and then can be used as a saw to cut shapes. they can also be used to enlarge existing holes. Had these in the UK check it out here,
Faithfull Drill Saw Rasp and File Bits - 6.5 x 90 mm - FAIRRASPS - Rotary Rasps - Faithfull Tools - DIY and Tools from DIYTools.co.uk - Your First Stop For All Things DIY !

Richard


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## ed1016 (Nov 16, 2009)

*Cavity routing*

Thank y'all for your great ideas. I'm not sure which method I'll be using yet, but the 
"Drill-Rasp" idea is very interesting, didn't know they made such an item. I'm going to try locating one locally (if they're made in the US0, so I can get on with it sooner.
Really appreciate your help, thanks again.






ed1016 said:


> I'm going to be making some Cribbage Boards out of exotic woods 5/4 or 6/4" thick.
> I want to rout a cavity in the bottom of the board for storage of cards and pegs. I have two ideas:
> 1. Rout the cavity then rout a 1/8" groove around the cavity to insert a removable bottom of 1/8" Baltic Plywood glued to an end cap. If I choose this method, what is the best way to rout the cavity without danger of damaging the wood (or me)?
> 
> ...


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## watson (Nov 10, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> but he can get a router bit 4" long


G'day,
would you have a link to a supplier for 4" long router bits please?

I tried to get one here in OZ, and would have had to have a special made up at a cost of $300 plus.

So your reply leapt out at me.

Regards,
Noel


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

1 pc 1/2" SH 3" Blade Extra Long Straight Router Bit - eBay (item 130457169840 end time Nov-27-10 11:54:39 PST)

4 pc 1/4" SH Extra Long Trim & straight Router Bit Set - eBay (item 140477998085 end time Dec-13-10 13:13:40 PST)

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watson said:


> G'day,
> would you have a link to a supplier for 4" long router bits please?
> 
> I tried to get one here in OZ, and would have had to have a special made up at a cost of $300 plus.
> ...


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## watson (Nov 10, 2006)

Thanks mate.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Your Welcome Noel

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watson said:


> Thanks mate.


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## ed1016 (Nov 16, 2009)

I tried the Mortise Method as I had an attachment for my shopsmith. It didn't work well because I'm using such hard woods, Bubing, Leopard Wood, etc. I ended up using a 3/4" spade bit, drilling into the end grain of the 6/4, 17" long piece, using my Shopsmith in a Horizontal Drilling position. It didn't come out as perfect as I wanted, but accepable after using a 4" drum sander to clean up the hole. I'm new to this Forum so don't know if this reply will reach everyone who was so helpful with their replies or not, so guess I should answer each one individually. Thanks for your suggestion.
Ed


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