# Going Corded



## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

After 10 plus years of battery operated (Cordless) tools (Mainly Drill Drivers) I have had enough. For the most part the tool itself doesn't fail but the batteries do. If I had a thousand dollars every time I needed to replace a battery in the middle of something to only plug in another under powered battery I could have retired 5 years ago.

Recently my Dewalt 18v Drill Driver clutch got stuck in the drill position so the clutch is not operetable. I have been looking and looking at drill drivers, drill drivers with impacts as well as the multi tool packages by every maker. There have been some "Good Buys" since before Thanksgiving and I almost pulled the trigger on a couple but just couldn't do it. Every time that voice keeps asking "How long are these batteries going to Last?", "2 years? 3?" "You'll be lucky if they last to the end of the warranty" I was looking at one manufacturer's 8 tool combo kit and almost bought it but then the voice started again and this time added "You already have all these tools corded and they will still be working when these cordless tools die".

With all of that said last night I made the decision to go corded. If my work required me to have cordless tools I would have the best of the best but it does not. So I have plenty of extension cords and would rather run it than run down batteries. All I really needed was a corded keyless chuck drill with a clutch and I began looking. To my surprise it was almost impossible to find one. There are several quality corded keyless chuck drill but only one that also had a clutch and that was a Black and Decker :frown: and it was 4 amps. 

Sounds like the manufacturers would rather sell tools every 3 to 5 years than every 10 to 20.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Several more of us have also made that same decision Jim. For someone working in a home shop cordless just isn't absolutely necessary. I did manage to buy some extra batteries cheap for my Milwaukees but found out recently that they are likely knockoffs. They are performing fairly well just the same and they were just under $30 each for 4 amp hr ones which was $120 cheaper each than the dealer here.

For a corded drill though I prefer to stick with a keyed chuck. I've seen a few with keyless (like a boss' DW) that did not perform well. I think corded might be a little too much power for most of the keyless ones.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Agreed, Chuck...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Interestingly enough I had 2 makita 18V drills and the batteries all went south . Bought Dewalt drills and impact drivers and touch wood , no issues .
I’ve had the Deawalt non brushless version for many years (thinking apprx 6) and everything is fine . I couldn’t imagine a corded drill this day and age , but each to his own .
I love my brushless version though and always find I’m reaching for it , as the weight is lighter and it feels more ergonomic .

One thing I don’t believe in is cordless skill saws and grinders . Always found they were useless and went dead far too quickly


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

This string makes you think. I have the 18 v DeWalt tools and really like how they work, but my batteries are ageing and don't hold that much of a charge. And the 20 v is nice, but one strong 4 amp battery is about the cost of a pair of 18v. The impact driver is priceless and I'll probably keep it running as long as possible, but I ran across my old 1/4 inch corded drill the other day so when my DeWalts die, I might just use it and skip the cordless. I once had a Makita battery rebuilt, but it didn't really work properly. 

Batteries are a real issue these days. I inherited a small (3lb) oxygen concentrator from my brother last year, and the batteries are about $500 each, and both batteries just won't take a charge after sitting around for a year. I just use it for sleeping when traveling, so I don't really need the batteries, but I'm thinking I won't be ponying up a $1,000 any time soon.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Never had cordless tools, except flashlights. I'm satisfied with my corded tools. If I were somewhere with no power, then I would consider cordless, but if I could just use a hand powered tool, I would go for that over cordless. But I do all work at home, so it's corded for me. I bought a new B&D corded drill somewhere around 1975. Still works, still use it almost every time I go in my shop. And still have not had to replace a battery in it.


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## thomas1389 (Jan 4, 2012)

JOAT said:


> Never had cordless tools, except flashlights. I'm satisfied with my corded tools. If I were somewhere with no power, then I would consider cordless, but if I could just use a hand powered tool, I would go for that over cordless. But I do all work at home, so it's corded for me. I bought a new B&D corded drill somewhere around 1975. Still works, still use it almost every time I go in my shop. And still have not had to replace a battery in it.


Just the opposite, The only corded I have is a flashlight. My wife likes it cause I can only go so far at night. I need a longer cord, I guess. Or a wife that's not concerned. I can barely get it to reach my beautiful widow neighbour's window. I don't want to start falling over things in the dark.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

thomas1389 said:


> Just the opposite, The only corded I have is a flashlight. My wife likes it cause I can only go so far at night. I need a longer cord, I guess. Or a wife that's not concerned. I can barely get it to reach my beautiful widow neighbour's window. I don't want to start falling over things in the dark.


When you get that close your hearing is more important anyway. You need to be able to hear the sound of the receiver slamming shut so that you know when to duck and run. A light would just illuminate the target. In this case you.


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## thomas1389 (Jan 4, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> When you get that close your hearing is more important anyway. You need to be able to hear the sound of the receiver slamming shut so that you know when to duck and run. A light would just illuminate the target. In this case you.


Good thought. I'm all ready. I just got my first hearing aids in July. They're a gem. I can hear myself coming before I get there.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Odd but I have had a Ryobi set I got for Christmas several years ago. I did have to replace the original batteries but found an online place that had blem batteries, four for $99 with free shipping and full factory warranty. I always keep my batteries charged. Separate the two so I don't have to guess. The Ryobi drill has much more torque for driving screws than my old corded Crapsman drill. The corded drill is used for pilot holes and the Ryobi drives the screws.


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## roxanne562001 (Feb 5, 2012)

I have rebuilt most of my old nicad battery packs myself you can buy the Nicad cells pretty cheap. I converted a couple packs to lithium cells using laptop computer batteries but that was allot of work. You have to build in a circuit to monitor the battery charge level. I bought new Ryobi kits with Lithium batteries a couple years ago and since I switched to Lithium cells the battery problems have pretty much disappeared. The battery technology is getting better all the time. I wouldn't give up on the cordless it is the wave of the future.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I know the tool companies are banking on it Roxanne because all the flyers from stores selling tools have at least twice as many ads for cordless tools as they do corded these days. Maybe when I'm guaranteed at a minimum of 10 years service from tool and battery. However, I found a new issue when I bought a Milwaukee drill/driver combo kit about 3 years ago. The drill started giving me trouble at about the one year mark. No problem, it has a 5 year warranty and Milwaukee smartly includes the year of manufacture in the serial number so no receipt needed, which was handy as I couldn't find it at the time. When I took it to the repair shop the manager checked and said it's the circuit board that regulates power usage to avoid overheating the battery and setting on fire, it'll have to be replaced. And by the way he said,* if it goes after the warranty is over toss the drill.* The board is so expensive you might as well buy a new drill. So where the batteries may be more reliable, the tools might not be.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

In a word, 'vindication'. 
You couldn't give me a battery powered tool.
Just FYI there are lots of generic replacement battery packs. Waaaay less expensive, and yes they're warranteed.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> In a word, 'vindication'.
> You couldn't give me a battery powered tool.
> Just FYI there are lots of generic replacement battery packs. Waaaay less expensive, and yes they're warranteed.


So you won’t be driving a Tesla any time soon I gather ? :grin:


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

I have had problems with the Craftsman batteries going bad and have several tools that use them. I also have a lot of Ryobi cordless tools and have not had any of the batteries go out yet in 5 years. Of course I am watching them wondering how long they will last.

I have a Dremel Stylus I've had for over 10 years and it is still taking a charge and working well. I wish they would bring them back, I'd buy a couple of more just so i would not have to change bits.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

MEBCWD said:


> I have had problems with the Craftsman batteries going bad and have several tools that use them. I also have a lot of Ryobi cordless tools and have not had any of the batteries go out yet in 5 years. Of course I am watching them wondering how long they will last.
> 
> I have a Dremel Stylus I've had for over 10 years and it is still taking a charge and working well. I wish they would bring them back, I'd buy a couple of more just so i would not have to change bits.


Just saw this 5 minutes ago while I was checking cheap batteries for Joseph down in Mexico Mike. I have no idea how well it would work but it's not expensive. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ADAPTER-FO...415182?hash=item2f39d04c0e:g:AxAAAOSw6ypc52vN


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Just saw this 5 minutes ago while I was checking cheap batteries for Joseph down in Mexico Mike. I have no idea how well it would work but it's not expensive. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ADAPTER-FO...415182?hash=item2f39d04c0e:g:AxAAAOSw6ypc52vN


Thanks Charles.

I wish they had on for using Ryobi batteries but I do have a couple of Black and Decker 20V batteries for a pole pruner I have. I think I'll get one of those and try it out.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Ryobies are in here...
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Packs/b?node=552354
Check Harry's Banggood.com as well.
(I think I may have mentioned that apparently "Bang" is Mandarin for 'good'... so Good-good.  )


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> You couldn't give me a battery powered tool.


I would very happily accept a battery powered tool. I figure one would be excellent trading material. But use one? Nah.


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## MYB506 (Dec 5, 2012)

I bought a small lightweight Ridgid drill about 4 years ago because it came with lifetime battery warranty. About 2 years later the battery wouldn't hold a charge and I returned it to HD. To my surprise there was no hassle and they gave me a new battery. 

I have since thrown out all my old cordless tools and bought a more powerful Ridgid drill, driver and circular saw that came with the same lifetime warranty. They have all had a lot of use and the batteries are still working fine.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

I love my DW 20V drills and drivers. Corded is so restrictive. Plus my models have LED lights that make tight places all the easier. They are in the "cold dead fingers" category.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

roxanne562001 said:


> I wouldn't give up on the cordless it is the wave of the future.


Very true, and I move with the times. My collection of cordless tools include, several hammers, brace and bit, two eggbeater drills, coping saw, several handsaws, hacksaw, tape measures, paint brushes, wood chisels, two or three Yankee screwdrivers, hand miter saw, several planes, spokeshave, and likely a few I forgot. They all get used, and no battery issues. I would like to also get a blacksmith drill.


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

I'll support Marco's decision. Have had several cordless drills including two from Bosch and only one, from BD have been working good with the batteries replacement. I use it exclusively as a screwdriver.
For the others the problem here are the replacements. Hard to find, expensive and hard to disposse off. The last is the same for BD, too. I have a lot of drained batteries whose main use is as counter weight for some jobs


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

papasombre said:


> I have a lot of drained batteries whose main use is as counter weight for some jobs


My 2 original Dewalt batteries are outside providing air flow space for the upside down bucket that is covering my Dust Collectors motor


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Cordless hammer drills are the one tool I can't imagine doing without. We watch Gold Rush on cable, and you see that all their hammer drills, even the really large ones, are battery powered. Even those used to remove bolts from D10 Cats, are batter powered instead of compressed air driven. Used my DW the other day to tighten up some loose bolts under my low slung car the other day. Tried for half an hour to hand tighten the worst one, and took one quick trigger pull with the DW 18 v hammer drill. Better than popped corn if you ask me.


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## LexAdmn (Nov 12, 2018)

I think it is all about the same no matter how you slice it.
Failing batteries vs. cheap workmanship vs. warranties vs. lost time and inconvenience.

I have the DW 20v tools as well. These do last a few moments as long as you do not stress them
Seem to be good tools - not so much for the batteries.
I have some thick oak to drill thru and knew the battery drill would peter out pretty quickly, so I bought a corded Milwaukee 1/2" 7.5 amp hammer drill as the oak is 12 inches thick.
After 12 holes - the Milwaukee is dead.

Good warranty - 5 years.
They even pay the shipping.
But I am not done with my work! and I have to drive to town to drop off the Milwaukee for shipping.
No idea when it will be back.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

LexAdmin; are you using a ship's auger? What diameter bit?
My standard practice is to drill down a little, withdraw the bit to clear the chips, then run either a candle stub or piece of paraffin wax up and down the hot bit. This'll lube the bit as you restart the drilling. You may have to do that a couple of times per hole. 
Why are you using a hammer drill for augering wood? The hammer action is intended for SDS Carbide bits in concrete or stone.


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## LexAdmn (Nov 12, 2018)

DaninVan said:


> LexAdmin; are you using a ship's auger? What diameter bit?
> My standard practice is to drill down a little, withdraw the bit to clear the chips, then run either a candle stub or piece of paraffin wax up and down the hot bit. This'll lube the bit as you restart the drilling. You may have to do that a couple of times per hole.
> Why are you using a hammer drill for augering wood? The hammer action is intended for SDS Carbide bits in concrete or stone.


I'm using a 5/8" spade bit. No lube, but I don't make it work. I am too lazy for that. I do back the bit out very frequently to clean the chips.
The hammer action is not being used. It just happens to be one of the functions of the drill.

The battery powered DW has plenty of power to do the job, but I get tired of going in the shop to change batteries regularly. I also find it oddly frustrating when the battery becomes more lazy than I while in the middle of a task. :|


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I bought a cheap hammer drill which would also drill but the motor has to spin so fast for the hammer function that it has no torque for drilling that requires any oomph at all. I think my old 4.5 amp DW 3/8" has more torque.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Never thought about the 'why'...makes sense now. My 1/2" ( I think it's actually 5/8") is extremely low speed and high torque; actually manufacturer approved for mixing mud or mortar. Not quite up there with a Milwaukee Holehawg leg-breaker but almost.


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## st8yd (May 10, 2011)

I am getting further away from cords every chance I get. I got my first cordless drill around '91 (probably on my 8th one by now) and have rarely used a corded drill since. Most of the time I have upgraded was because I was able to find the kit cheaper than replacing batteries. So be it I hate dealing with cords.
I have found the Ryobi platform to be the most economical and watch for sales.

I have the Dewalt 60v 7-1/4" circular saw and love it will never have another corded saw for carpentry. I briefly used the 20v 7-1/4" circ saw and it seemed like it might be worth as well.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

At work I use a Milwaukee Circular saw with their "High Demand" battery. Great battery but at $199 for one? As long as their buying.... At work I actually prefer the corded Makita when I need a straight cut.. the Milwaukee for everything else.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I traded all my 18v Dewalt tools in on 20v over a year ago. Dewalt had a generous trade in policy for 18v tools at their service centers.

My main problem now is my Milwaukee 28v Sawzall batteries are getting old. I love the Sawzall but batteries are expensive.


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## tulowd (Jan 24, 2019)

Bought my first (used) Makita 7.2V cordless drill in 1984 for installing car stereos professionally.

Then a 9.6 which lasted me 20 years with a spare battery.

About 10 years ago I bought a bag full (8 drills and impact drivers, 12 batteries, 4 chargers) of Porter Cable cordless 12V lithium and 18V NiCad tools for $200. Every time I saw a tool set, chargers or batteries on sale or used cheap I would buy them. Last 4 batteries were brand new in sealed packages 18V for.....$5 each! Have thrown out some of the old ones when they don't hold a charge properly. One of the Lithium 12V drills died, but the two impact drivers and the other drill are fabulous - less than half the size and weight of the 18V stuff, use them every day. I also have 2 corded hammer drills and 3 or 4 air drills, which I use from time to time to drill metal.

Impact guns are way different than drills as previously mentioned. Torque vs rpm as well as the clutch and hammer action. The PC hand operated drill chucks are garbage, constantly loosening various bits in all 5 drills I have. Going to replace a couple with old school Jacobs chucks.

The 18V cordless circular saw craps out quickly but is handy and lightweight, the 18V sawzall is pretty good.

I keep looking for more of the small light 12V Li Io tools, batteries and chargers, but no can find anywhere.

Some of my car buddies and all the race teams we know use Li Io 20V or larger impact guns for wheel removal/installation in the shop and the pits. The much lower mass and no cord is a real winner. However, I have not seen a consumer level cordless impact gun that rivals my air powered Ingersol Rand IR234 1/2" drive gun that used to be the tire shop standard tool.

The LiIo technology is so much more forgiving for letting tools sit unused for months and still hold a charge, they have much greater power density and don't have a memory - ie) they will fully charge every time.

The low mass of the small 12V drills and impact drivers makes them real winners in my world - even when drilling or driving 3" screws into 3/4 MDF I use the small guys first. Massive difference in comfort and wear and tear on your body; not to mention the smaller tools fit into tight spaces, under the dash etc.

Once these start to die, I will likely load up on some pro grade premium cordless products - DW or Milwaukee.
Have also seen that Harbor Freight is now getting into contractor grade cordless tools - likely worth a looksee.

I would suggest bringing a scale and weighing them, as well as handling for comfort in your paws - just like a standard Glock fits some folks hands better than a HK or Sig.

In the car audio installation world, feel was a large part of the tools attraction - if you are driving screws into delicate materials it's nice to have a tool with good feel and a built in brake.


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