# Soundproof box for under the table circular saw.



## JOHNRICH (Aug 11, 2012)

I want to make a soundproof box for my circular saw because it is very noisy while in use. The saw runs with a 9.25 inches saw. It is very noisy. My neighours are annoyed but I need to use the saw to do some wood work lately. I know it it impossible to get 100% soundproof as there is an opening on the saw table. Just want to cut off as much machine noise as possible. Material I have on hand: 3/8", .5", and 6/8" plywood (all 4'X8') and some acoustic absorption foam (1M X 1.5M X 25mm). I have finished installing the saw under my 4' X 3' work bench today. Any suggestion in constructing this box would be very much appreciated. :thank_you2:


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## PMC Tools (Jan 7, 2013)

I would recommend enclosing the entire bench for the most affective results.
I say this for a couple of reasons;
1. You have a lot more air space between the source of the noise and the escape point of the noise. That is important because the more space you have to trap the noise, the more trapping materials you can put in place. Also the longer a sound wave travels the less intense it gets due to friction. Enclosures that are too small will produce vibrations of the enclosure itself that will cause it to start giving off its own noise, most likely a low frequency rumble and you'll have just turned your table saw into a sub-woofer.

2. Electric motors generate HEAT, if the heat is not dissipated properly you'll just wind up burning up your motor and having to buy a new one. Having more airspace will also allow the motor and surrounding materials to release excess heat more efficiently.
Remember heat, much like sound, travels in waves.

If you can foot the bill I would strongly advise using plexiglass as it has sound deadening characteristics. If you choose to use R-15 insulation don't just lay it flat and staple it, pinch sections of it up into a wavy pattern along your plywood. This helps to produces multiple surfaces for the sound to echo off us increasing your soundproofing.
Again, the longer the sound travels the weaker it gets, if you throw a rubber ball at a flat wall it will bounce off and continue going, but if the wall had say, wads of paper glued to it then threw the ball, the multiple angles of deflection would cause the ball to lose most of its momentum on its first strike and not travel as far.

Sorry, I really didn't mean to get so long winded.


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## TRBaker (Jul 5, 2012)

If it were me, I would use particle board (yuk) for the box. It's really dense and very effective as a sound deadener. That's why it is the go to material for speaker boxes. Also, remember that multiple layers are a must to deaden sound, with air space in between. Guy is correct when he recommends plexi as well. Acoustical windows are usually made like regular insulated windows except they use two different thicknesses of plexi or lexan for the panes. The different thicknesses are more effective because they break down different parts of the sound waves. Hope this made sense. I use particle board as an acoustical barrier simply because it is cheaper than plexi or lexan.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

How much of the noise is produced below the table and how much from above? You could try holding the sound deadening material around the bottom area and see how much difference it makes. That won't help the noise made by the exposed portion of the blade. Hanging heavy cloth or blankets from the ceiling around the saw will help that problem but I don't know how much. The cloth will help get rid of the high pitched noises which are the most annoying. Closing windows and doors will also help but it might be very hot inside for that where you live.

By the way, welcome to the forum.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

John; Welcome! First question I'd be asking is 'why's it so noisy?'
Is it loud when you're actually cutting something, or just about as bad when it's running without cutting? What's generating the noise, or is it a combination of things?
If you box in the cabinet part, but it's actually the blade (sort of like a siren effect), will that have accomplished anything?
For starters, I'd be trying to determine what's generating the noise and looking at reduction by eliminating/modifying the sources. Try a different brand of blade for example. I use CMT and my particular blade is extremely quiet, even when cutting. My dust collector is far louder, and _it's_ pretty quiet, all things considered.
Another thing you might try is a new belt, assuming it's belt driven. Vibration may be a factor as well.
Good luck!


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

My question would be, are you using the saw indoors or outdoors? If indoors, I would insulate the room first. That has provided enough sound dampening that I have _ never_ had any complaints about noise no matter what tools I run! If outdoors it will be hard to limit all sound from a circular saw. much of the noise comes from the blade, as was stated above. Also heat will be a consideration if the saw is confined in too small a box. A temporary fence covered with a blanket my block a lot of the noise if you are only concerned about 1 direction. Other than that, unless you are doing your cutting at 3AM in the morning and or all day every day, just informing your neighbors before hand may help!


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## JOHNRICH (Aug 11, 2012)

*Soundproofing box*



PMC Tools said:


> I would recommend enclosing the entire bench for the most affective results.
> I say this for a couple of reasons;
> 1. You have a lot more air space between the source of the noise and the escape point of the noise. That is important because the more space you have to trap the noise, the more trapping materials you can put in place. Also the longer a sound wave travels the less intense it gets due to friction. Enclosures that are too small will produce vibrations of the enclosure itself that will cause it to start giving off its own noise, most likely a low frequency rumble and you'll have just turned your table saw into a sub-woofer.
> 
> ...



I have plywood, acoustic absorption foam and plexiglass (only 1mm in thickness). I will follow your suggestion of enclosing the sides and the bottom of the bench and see how it goes. Your suggestion is very much appreciated.


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## JOHNRICH (Aug 11, 2012)

TRBaker said:


> If it were me, I would use particle board (yuk) for the box. It's really dense and very effective as a sound deadener. That's why it is the go to material for speaker boxes. Also, remember that multiple layers are a must to deaden sound, with air space in between. Guy is correct when he recommends plexi as well. Acoustical windows are usually made like regular insulated windows except they use two different thicknesses of plexi or lexan for the panes. The different thicknesses are more effective because they break down different parts of the sound waves. Hope this made sense. I use particle board as an acoustical barrier simply because it is cheaper than plexi or lexan.


I got plywood, foam and plexi (1mm). I will try to get some particle board too. Thank very much for your suggestion.


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## JOHNRICH (Aug 11, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> How much of the noise is produced below the table and how much from above? You could try holding the sound deadening material around the bottom area and see how much difference it makes. That won't help the noise made by the exposed portion of the blade. Hanging heavy cloth or blankets from the ceiling around the saw will help that problem but I don't know how much. The cloth will help get rid of the high pitched noises which are the most annoying. Closing windows and doors will also help but it might be very hot inside for that where you live.
> 
> By the way, welcome to the forum.


I don't know how much noise there is above and below the work bench but I would enclosed the work bench with plywood, acoustic foam and plexiglass and see how it goes. Thank for your suggestion.


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## JOHNRICH (Aug 11, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> John; Welcome! First question I'd be asking is 'why's it so noisy?'
> Is it loud when you're actually cutting something, or just about as bad when it's running without cutting? What's generating the noise, or is it a combination of things?
> If you box in the cabinet part, but it's actually the blade (sort of like a siren effect), will that have accomplished anything?
> For starters, I'd be trying to determine what's generating the noise and looking at reduction by eliminating/modifying the sources. Try a different brand of blade for example. I use CMT and my particular blade is extremely quiet, even when cutting. My dust collector is far louder, and _it's_ pretty quiet, all things considered.
> ...


The saw gives out high pitch noise once it is started, It became more noisy while cutting. I will enclosed the bench with soundproof material (plywood, foam and plexiglass and perhaps particle board if I could get it). Where could I get that type of blade your are using? I made contact with Makita (Hong Kong). They have a blue ray blade but is said not to have much noise reducing effect. I will shop for the type of 'quiet' blade that you are using. Thanks.


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## JOHNRICH (Aug 11, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> How much of the noise is produced below the table and how much from above? You could try holding the sound deadening material around the bottom area and see how much difference it makes. That won't help the noise made by the exposed portion of the blade. Hanging heavy cloth or blankets from the ceiling around the saw will help that problem but I don't know how much. The cloth will help get rid of the high pitched noises which are the most annoying. Closing windows and doors will also help but it might be very hot inside for that where you live.
> 
> By the way, welcome to the forum.


I will be working outdoor in the garden. I will try to enclose the workbench with soundproof material on hand and see how it goes. Thanks for your suggestion.


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## JOHNRICH (Aug 11, 2012)

Dmeadows said:


> My question would be, are you using the saw indoors or outdoors? If indoors, I would insulate the room first. That has provided enough sound dampening that I have _ never_ had any complaints about noise no matter what tools I run! If outdoors it will be hard to limit all sound from a circular saw. much of the noise comes from the blade, as was stated above. Also heat will be a consideration if the saw is confined in too small a box. A temporary fence covered with a blanket my block a lot of the noise if you are only concerned about 1 direction. Other than that, unless you are doing your cutting at 3AM in the morning and or all day every day, just informing your neighbors before hand may help!


I have plywood, acoustic absorption foam and plexiglass (only 1mm in thickness). I will enclosed the sides and the bottom of the bench and see how it goes. Your suggestion is very much appreciated.


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## PMC Tools (Jan 7, 2013)

Keep us posted on how it works out for you JOHNRICH


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

John; just turn the radio up real loud...the neighbours won't even notice the saw!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

John, in an effort to be somewhat more helpful than that last one of mine 
here's a really interesting online treatment of the subject...
IFA - Practical solutions: Low-noise blades on circular saws (BGI 5051)


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

IF you have enough of the plexi so that you could make a 4 sided box out of it and hang it over the saw so that you could work inside the box that might help. It might help reflect some of the sound straight up and down.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

+1 with Charles and Dan.

In a box- You really need to make sure it has enough air flow around the motor to keep it from overheating. In a box, you are closing off open airflow and adding sound deadening material, that also acts like insulation. You could think of a cabinet saw a being in a box of sorts, but it does have plenty of airflow to the right places.

I have an old Rockwell cabinet shop saw. Running- It is quiet as came be. Balanced and no vibration. Coins stay on edge during startup and running. Noise above the table is from the blades I use. Depending on the blade being used, they give a ringing sound during the cut, getting a louder ringing sound right after the release. If that ring is "off" or dead to me, I wonder about how "sound" the blade is.

Just saying. It might be worth you looking into Dan's link for low-noise blades.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

John; I'm a little curious as to the availability of non-China made tools and equipment in HK?
Do you have large retail woodworking suppliers there?
Availability of Bosch? Makita? CMT? Forrest?

Maybe something like this?
Bosch PRO1040GP 10" x 40 TPI General Purpose Woodworking Blade | ToolBarn.com
(No personal experience with that particular blade, but I do like Bosch stuff)


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## VINISOLA (Oct 2, 2014)

I'd like to soundproof my table saw. I have a Delta Unisaw built in 1979, is there anything I can use on the inside of the cabinet that I can adhere to the walls

Thanks


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Don't think there is much you can do for the noise from a unisaw. Most of the noise is coming from the blade not the motor. If you are getting a lot of noise from the internals, I would be concerned that there is a bad bearing somewhere.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Vin I also own a unisaw and as Mike says, soundproofing the cabinet won't help much. Most of the noise under the table is rumble from the belts and motor. This isn't the annoying part of the sound. The annoying part is the high pitched whine and it's the blade doing that. Unless you hang sound deadening material around the saw, enclosing it, I doubt you'll hear much improvement.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Vin I also own a unisaw and as Mike says, soundproofing the cabinet won't help much. Most of the noise under the table is rumble from the belts and motor. This isn't the annoying part of the sound. *The annoying part is the high pitched whine and it's the blade doing that*. Unless you hang sound deadening material around the saw, enclosing it, I doubt you'll hear much improvement.


try a Freud w/ the laser cut bodies...
they tend to run pretty quiet...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

This is an issue close to my heart ,well about a foot down , as sometimes when I go #2 it's kinda loud (I'm lactose intolerant) so I'm working on an electronic acoustical system to cancel out the noise . When the 4 mikes pic up the noise , speakers recreate it out of phase to create a kind of cancelation effect . Kind of like that helicopter "Blue Thunder" when he switches to whisper mode . When I get the circuit refined I'll post it . 

Or you could build a box and install dynamat


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> This is an issue close to my heart ,well about a foot down , as sometimes when I go #2 it's kinda loud (I'm lactose intolerant) so I'm working on an electronic acoustical system to cancel out the noise . When the 4 mikes pic up the noise , speakers recreate it out of phase to create a kind of cancelation effect . Kind of like that helicopter "Blue Thunder" when he switches to whisper mode . When I get the circuit refined I'll post it .
> 
> Or you could build a box and install dynamite


that was way too much information, readily available white noise generators may be the solution or hermetically seal your butt to the can......


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> that was way too much information ...


:lol:
I get that a lot


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Vin I also own a unisaw and as Mike says, soundproofing the cabinet won't help much. Most of the noise under the table is rumble from the belts and motor. This isn't the annoying part of the sound. The annoying part is the high pitched whine and it's the blade doing that. Unless you hang sound deadening material around the saw, enclosing it, I doubt you'll hear much improvement.


another thing...
the sheaves may be sized wrong and his arbor speed/RPM may be higher than spec'd...
making for one screaming unit...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

A different blade could make a difference. I don't know if you played with a siren disc in school but a saw blade is very similar. There is an experiment you try. Put a small cardboard box over the blade. Put a larger cardboard box over the first one. Fill the miter slots with sawdust so sound can't leak out through. Fire up the saw and see how much quieter it is. This is the sound that won't be affected by deadening the cabinet. If it's most of what you hear then the only solution is deadening the entire area around the saw.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

wear hearing protection or white noise generators...


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

My panel saw is quiet. But with it's kit, it is over 1300 lbs. It has a box around the blade. I notice on blades, the blade noise (usally a ring as the work passes past the blade) is higher if I use a thin kerf. Thicker blades are quieter. The inside is partially exposed when the slider is slid all the way pushed forward or back... But the blade brake is probably the loudest phase of it.

Funny thing is that my Rockwell is not any where near that weight or as heavy walled construction... Nor does it have a box around the blade... but it is encased in a cabinet... And I believe it is quieter than my panel saw.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Woodchuck1957 said:


> If I red the original post correctly ( which is almost 2 years old ) .


Somebodys paying attention . Good thing I never joined the RCMP as I'd never make detective


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

I saw that is was an old post... still answered, as this is something that is always relevant and keeps coming up.


Woodchuck1957 said:


> Well we all know that the majority of the belt drive table saws are going to be alot quieter then a screamin circular saw. I would of suggested buying a real table saw.


Of my table saws... My jobsite saw is the noisiest. That one is direct drive, with the motor's armature offset and a gear drive to the arbor... Very light and "open".

My SCMS and SCM are both direct drive and are noisier. They are probably as noisy or noisier than any of my hand-held circular saws!!!

The panel saw has the motors (4.5hp main, 1hp scoring) segmented in half of the cabinet. Quiet, but louder when braking. When stopping, it stops the blades.

The shop saw is quiet. Has the motor offset in the cabinet. Has a flat cogged belt that looks like a very short timing belt...

Which reminds me that: If you have equipment that has a belt for the drive, that you could always use an adjustable segmented belt. They run quieter and with less vibration. I have an excuse to get one of those for my bandsaw. But I bought it used and had been sitting. That belt being age hardened and sitting in one position for a long time, got a set to it. Even just a new belt would be more pliable and would let run with less belt vibration.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Lots of old posts get resurrected from time to time. Most of them are still relevant. It never hurts to go over the ones that deal with noise, dust, and safety again.


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