# How to make router lift Cheap



## Ratt (May 25, 2009)

Today at work I was working with my laser welder and had to recalibrate the microscope sight and reached over for the "Lab Jack" and it hit me like a brick. This would be the perfect router lift, It would work for any make or model and it cost about 30 bucks used for a small one about 4x4. 
Man I cant believe this did not come to me before, I hope this helps someone other than me.

Ratt


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Haven't seen a lab jack used as a router lift, but I've seen many use a scissor jack as a router lift. Scissor jack LINK

By the way, where can you buy a lab jack for $30 used? Those have a smaller footprint and would take up less space than a scissor jack.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

If you are looking for an inexpensive router lift, Check out Woodworkers Journal, Page 34 A nice set-up, and you control it with a small crank. Also a nice way to attach a router, if you are on a tight budget.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Paulo

Just one more place to get the jacks from 

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
Amazon.com: Fisherbrand Lab Jacks; Size: Micro; 2.75 x 2.75: Industrial & Scientific
Amazon.com: Lab Jack (1 ea): Industrial & Scientific

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## GBM (Dec 18, 2007)

I did not know labs needed jacks.... 
I was thinking that four threaded rods at the corners of whatever you need to raise or lower with a chain going around them... would provide wide support and low weight ... I have not investigated the cost...but it would should provide good access from the bottom .


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Paulo
> 
> Just one more place to get the jacks from
> 
> ...


 Looking at the first link, one gets to wondering.

Two ton capacity --> able to lift any router.
Lifts from 4-3/4" to 13-1/2" --> No shortage of range.
Manual backup crank --> no need for battery backup power, eh?

Heck, the thing is good enough to drive the entire router through the table top. :sarcastic:

Cassandra


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

hahahahahaha Cassandra

With 13 1/2 lift you could change bits easy  LOL and the spare tire at the same time LOL LOL 

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Cassandra said:


> Looking at the first link, one gets to wondering.
> 
> Two ton capacity --> able to lift any router.
> Lifts from 4-3/4" to 13-1/2" --> No shortage of range.
> ...


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Cassandra said:


> Looking at the first link, one gets to wondering.
> 
> Two ton capacity --> able to lift any router.
> Lifts from 4-3/4" to 13-1/2" --> No shortage of range.
> ...


:lol::lol::lol: It can lift either a puny 3 horsepower router or a 345 horsepower hemi without any problems.


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## Kenichi (Apr 1, 2009)

*lift of a different color*



bobj3 said:


> Hi Paulo
> 
> Just one more place to get the jacks from
> 
> ...


I wonder if the actuator of this jack couldn't be removed and "retro-fitted" to my existing manual lift (JessEm Lift-Fx), warranty be darned. This would give you something like the motorized lift ala John Nixon @ Eagle Lake Woodworking.

Theoretically, the motor has a fairly low power draw and not too much push since the scissor jack does the heavy lifting (pardon the pun). Limit stops top and bottom would be the only obstacle. Cant really tell from the picture, but I'm guessing the motor depth is less than 6 inches,so clearance space shouldn't be too problematic.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Kenichi

I think it would be just fine the way it's comes,with a small pocket block under the router and with remote control it would be a nice motorized lift ..
and a easy work around to setup...I would suggest a small 12 volt bike battery for the power to run it...


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Kenichi said:


> I wonder if the actuator of this jack couldn't be removed and "retro-fitted" to my existing manual lift (JessEm Lift-Fx), warranty be darned. This would give you something like the motorized lift ala John Nixon @ Eagle Lake Woodworking.
> 
> Theoretically, the motor has a fairly low power draw and not too much push since the scissor jack does the heavy lifting (pardon the pun). Limit stops top and bottom would be the only obstacle. Cant really tell from the picture, but I'm guessing the motor depth is less than 6 inches,so clearance space shouldn't be too problematic.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Kenichi said:


> I wonder if the actuator of this jack couldn't be removed and "retro-fitted" to my existing manual lift (JessEm Lift-Fx), warranty be darned. This would give you something like the motorized lift ala John Nixon @ Eagle Lake Woodworking.
> 
> Theoretically, the motor has a fairly low power draw and not too much push since the scissor jack does the heavy lifting (pardon the pun). Limit stops top and bottom would be the only obstacle. Cant really tell from the picture, but I'm guessing the motor depth is less than 6 inches,so clearance space shouldn't be too problematic.


Kenachi,

I have recently purchased the Incra / Jessem Mast-R-Lift (the Incra/Jessem Mast-R-Lift is virtually identical to the Jessem except the insert plates are locked in with rare earth magnets instead of tabs), with the idea of motorizing it ala John Nixon.

I had an email discussion with Mark Mueller, Field Operations Manager for Taylor Design Group (Incra). Putting on his company hat, he indicated that the manufacturer will not warantee lifts damaged from motorized lifting. After further qestions, he indicated that he believes the manufacturer's (Jessem) concern is that it uses two sets of aluminum threads with a lash adjustment (to hold the router elevated) where the steel screw passes through the router carriage. He guessed that Jessem may have had a few customers gall out the aluminum threads with aggressive up-down work without enough lubrication (the threads are typically run dry or with a coat of wax or dry silicone).

Based upon that, I will likely eventually motorize mine, albeit with the clutch set as low as usable and speed limited.

Jim

P.S. Post pictures as you progress... I'm always looking for ideas!


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

*Lol*

Better use a pretty hefty deadman switch on it :jester::haha::nono:


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## Kenichi (Apr 1, 2009)

@bobj3 -- I thought the scissor jack would be a little big to fit in my router compartment on my router station, plus, I really like my router lift, except for the lack of motorization.

@BigJimAK -- Luckily, my current lift is out of warranty and is also a bastardized version from Rockler that has a smaller plate size than the current flock of router lifts. I was actually thinking of putting a reduction gear on the motor shaft to mate with and drive the primary gear already on the lift. That way, I would use the lift design as much as possibly, only changing the actuator mechanism to a motor instead of me with a crank arm. That should also minimize the gall out on the threads (as long as you have good dead man switches, as Howard suggested). I dont need it to go fast, just move precise.

@dutchman46 -- How about a 6' 4", 285lb hockey player to slap me upside the head when it reaches the top/bottom? Oi! :nhl_checking::sarcastic:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Kenichi

The scissor jack is a bit of a over kill that's why I used a small nut driver
with all the power I need to lift the 15 lb. router..

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Kenichi said:


> @bobj3 -- I thought the scissor jack would be a little big to fit in my router compartment on my router station, plus, I really like my router lift, except for the lack of motorization.
> 
> @BigJimAK -- Luckily, my current lift is out of warranty and is also a bastardized version from Rockler that has a smaller plate size than the current flock of router lifts. I was actually thinking of putting a reduction gear on the motor shaft to mate with and drive the primary gear already on the lift. That way, I would use the lift design as much as possibly, only changing the actuator mechanism to a motor instead of me with a crank arm. That should also minimize the gall out on the threads (as long as you have good dead man switches, as Howard suggested). I dont need it to go fast, just move precise.
> 
> @dutchman46 -- How about a 6' 4", 285lb hockey player to slap me upside the head when it reaches the top/bottom? Oi! :nhl_checking::sarcastic:


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## Kenichi (Apr 1, 2009)

I've considered that, I just dont have one laying around to use. So, I thought if I have to buy something, I would buy a motor for that purpose.

It seems that no matter what I choose, I end up looking at a cost of around 60 bucks.

<thinking in progress.....>
Now that you mention the nut driver...

I do have a 14v Dewalt drill I dont use anymore. Since the battery is dying, and is too expensive to replace since I have an 18v drill, maybe I will look into that. It should be less torque and already has a clutch which eliminates the need for a deadman switch. I should be able to build a AC/DC converter using the battery charger. Hmm, I need to revisit John Nixon's motorized lift page again...

Thanks for the mental jump start....


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Kenichi

I'm a cheap old SOB ,,,,,I don't keep the nut driver in the lift all the time I use it for what it was made for then when I need it in lift it just snaps in place.. and then back out...takes less than 3 sec.to put it into place..1,2,3 and it's set to do one more job 

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Kenichi said:


> I've considered that, I just dont have one laying around to use. So, I thought if I have to buy something, I would buy a motor for that purpose.
> 
> It seems that no matter what I choose, I end up looking at a cost of around 60 bucks.
> 
> ...


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## Kenichi (Apr 1, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Kenichi
> 
> I'm a cheap old SOB ,,,,,I don't keep the nut driver in the lift all the time I use it for what it was made for then when I need it in lift it just snaps in place.. and then back out...takes less than 3 sec.to put it into place..1,2,3 and it's set to do one more job
> 
> =====


He, he. I can appreciate that. I was a twigget in the Navy, so I like to keep my hands in things. The design and wiring of this would be a fun project. It would also feed my craving for gadgets, and even better it would be a homemade (sort of) gadget!


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Kenichi,
I don't think you have to bastardize your charger. You should be able buy a "wall-wart" 110v-> 12v or 14 v DC transformer pretty cheap.
Also, you could take an attempt at "zapping" the battery of your 14v. setup, in oder to keep it all functioning, like Bob. There is information out there about that. I hesitate to link to it since results can be less than fortuitous.


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## Kenichi (Apr 1, 2009)

*on hold....*

I'll keep that in mind as I go. Unfortunately, I am now in the process of moving, so the shop is closed until I complete the move, remodel a bathroom, fix the rotting wood under the stoop, frame and finish the basement where the shop will go, move the tools into the new shop, re-organize everything to fit in the smaller space, then, gods willing, I can get back to doing...:fie:


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## siili (Nov 18, 2005)

Hi,
What is a lab jack and where can I get one? Thanks!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

Amazon.com: Lab Jack 97-5701: Office Products

Lab Jack – 6" x 6" ~ Lab Jack ~ General Supplies

Lab Jack with Removeable Platform and Support Rod - Laboratory Support Stand

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Andrea Reynolds said:


> Hi,
> What is a lab jack and where can I get one? Thanks!


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Hi
You can see my router lift "home made" at this address:
http://www.lescopeaux.asso.fr/Techniques/clic.php3?url=Docs/Sante_Ascenseur_Defonceuse.pdf

it costs 0$ and works very well, with adjustable height from the table top and quick lift for bit change

Daniel


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