# New Shop Fox Band Saw



## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I finally broke down and bought a band saw, I wanted/needed one for yrs but always had some other tool, calamity or thing to get or do that was more important at the moment. I bought a Shop Fox W1707 2 hp 17" bandsaw.

There have been so many projects that would have been so much easier with a BS. Last winter including. I now have a large sundeck coming up where I'll need to pare down 6X6 privacy screen posts and a couple 4X4 swinging doors. I've held off on making new kitchen cabs because I wanted to do some clever book marking for panels and doors.

I haven't touched a bandsaw since high school, so I'd appreciate any info on a good Bandsaw book. I have a bunch of books by Spielman and Cliffe on TS, Radial saw, router, scroll work, clamping and such, so a good BS book would help round out the library.

So starting from the freight truck as it pulled up to the yard. I have never seen a more shoddy packing crate in my life, cranberry and orange crates are put together with more care than the open crating a 300+ lb shop tool got sent in. 

I took pics of it before it fell completely apart in the driveway. The cardboard box the fence and rails were in had a large puncture in it that lined up with the huge scratches on the left side of the fence. The body of the band saw has many scratches on the lower door. 

I don't think they will affect the ability of the saw to work, but I think that something/s landed on the flimsy crating. I'll be sending a letter and the damage pics to Amazon.com and Woodstock International.

It took my bro-in-law and myself close to an hour, tarps and plywood to get it into the basement, We had to move my old ARE DCU utility cap out of the way and then slide it down a couple planks into the basement, with the stern guidance of my bossy almost 4yr old niece from her comfy sun chair at the end of the workshop.

I bought a Rockler uni mobile base, put it together with some oak and fir and leaned the BS against the Workbench to slide it under. I'm pretty confident that, (me more than John) sweat out at least 2 days worth of liquid getting the BS into the basement. 

I figure I have a couple 3 days worth of nervous set-ups to ensure everything is working right before I start it up. The saw came with a 1/2" hook blade, (junk I'm sure. I also bought a 1/4" and a 1" from Tool Center they showed up around 3pm.
I'll be picking up a couple 3 good blades over the next months, so, if anyone has a trusted supply for blades I'd like to hear about them.

So here's the pics of the Shop Fox W1707


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Sorry that the box was so shoddy, Looks like a nice saw, and it should last a lifetime. I haven't seen any books, but in setting it up/ if you tension the blade, and spin it forward, You will be able to adjust it on the crown very easily. Just remember to take the pressure off the blade when not in use. Have fun, and work safely


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Fantastic looking saw. What made you pick that saw over so many other saws out there? I will look forward to your evaluation of the saw after you have had it a while.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Ronald,

If scratches is all that happened, I wouldn't worry too much about it. If there is some severe damage, I'd give them a call. Otherwise, looks like you got yourself a very nice BS. Usually, ShopFox and Grizzly ship with pretty decent blades.


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Hey yours is bigger then mine. Great deal will be a good one for resawing.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

A band saw is on my want list. I look forward to hearing your comments on this saw once you get used to it.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

For the longest time I wanted a metal/wood saw, I occasionally work metal, but couldn't convince wifey on the expense part, (I also have the itch to start welding again).

I picked the Shop Fox over the Jet for price, power, 2 speeds, higher fence, comes pre-wired for 220, 2 dust ports, (high and low) and the blade tension lever, (quick blade changes). The Jet has a 1 1/4" blade and a growing background in perfecting their product, but for the money and options Shop Fox won out. Grizzly, (same factory I hear) has a close one but its more expensive. Craftsman has some nice ones too, Powermatic and Laguna too small too big, too expensive.

That said, the proof will be in the running machine, I am apprehensive because of the scratches, there aren't any dents so my fear may be unnecessary, (I hope so).

Tonight I remembered I hate cozmoline, brings back miserable service memories. The table is nice, smooth and big and now free of cozmoline, I mounted the fence and rails tonight, the fence is nice, 4" high light aluminum and adjustable, I'm sure once I get going I'll make a nice 8 or 9" high resaw fence. 

I figure, conservatively it's going to take the weekend to get all the adjustments and testing out of the way, although I don't know if I'll have time to make the coplanarity gauge they're showing in the manual for alignment purposes. Once it is running then I'll practice a couple blade changes and much longer to get used to the different blades and what they're good for.

I've seen advertising for many BSs about cool blocks but don't see any mention in the owners manual about them and or where they'd go if they were an option.

Stupid thing, it comes pre-wired for 220, but without a plug, yet it suggests the 6-15, the most commonly used high voltage plug in use.
I like the table tilt wheel, but am leery about the arbor, it seems a little thin, (undersized) for such a large heavy table, (which probably takes up about 35% of the total weight of the saw). I also thought it was a little odd that the table alignment bolts are loose.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Great looking saw. I have considered getting one but for now I am saving for a 8" jointer instead. The real advantage of having a BS I think is the resawing capability of rough stock and minimial wastage. I bought a Royce rip blade and it seeems to do the trick for me on the table saw. 

However, if I won the Lotto I would love to buy one.

Enjoy the new BS and let us know how it performs for you.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Congratulations Ronald. I am very jealous. Cool blocks are to replace the steel guides that come with most saws. Yours has ball bearing guides.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Ronald, this ones pretty basic, but it's about as good as any BS video I've seen.

Podcast #22: Buying & Getting the Most Out of Your Band Saw — Woodworking Online


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Ronald that's a beauty of a saw! Nice size too! 
A book I found very helpful with mastering my bandsaw was Mark Duginske's The New Complete Guide to the Band Saw. He also has a couple of videos out as well.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Diesel, 
I've had a yearning for an 8" Jointer longer than the BS, I bought a 6" Reliant back around 89, with 22" infeed and outfeed beds. The problem with it is low quality workmanship, the 2 beds aren't planar and the fence isn't right from one end to the other. Even after discovering the error and doing all the possible shimming and fudging I could, if you -0- out the beds and lay a straight edge along them there is a gap at the ends equal to 3 sheets of writing paper. I set the beds at 1/32 and jammed step flashing into the bed rail ends both beds which improved it by maybe 50% and lived with it. The fence, you can square it to either the infeed or outfeed but not both.

Rusty,
I thought there probably was an attachment that clamped or screwed into something in addition to existing. Thanks for the link I'll be eyeballing it later tonight.

CanuckGal,
Thanks for the links, with all the books I have, I found that about 70 % or more of the info is common knowledge/sense, what I look for is the 20% that is often overlooked and or counter intuitive. It's the 20% that saves wasted labor and material.

So this is what I accomplished and learned to do today.
I bought a 220 plug, and installed it on the existing cord. The oddity and waste, (as I see it), is this, don't supply a 220 plug but put eyes on all 3 wires that extend 7" past the insulator?¿? 

The manual is on the confusing side, showing pics of items with multiple arrows pointing at different things and using unfamiliar terms. They could have added a couple extra pics and or added designators to the arrows. I could have knocked an hour off what I accomplished avoiding the dictionary.

Blade tension,
I learned how to set the blade tension using the scale method, but I think once I get the saw running I'll try the flutter option, compare and see what works best for starters. I have a feeling neither are absolute, but that material and feed rate dictate blade tension more.

Blade tracking, 
1st, the manual says in and out play at the top of the wheel, but the only play in the wheel when you release the upper wheel tension lever is side to side. I think instructions should be literal not figurative, but I got over it, assuming the translators in India were working late that night.

2nd don't read as you go, it instructs you to get the blade centered on the wheel and then lock it all down. Then the very last sentence tells you to have the blade track just left of center on the wheel through the view plate, so I had to go through it allover again. 

Guide bearings, 
I had a feeling 20 yrs back I'd still have a need for my trusty old feeler gauges and didn't chuck 'em, (I still have a timing light I can't use either). For the Shop Fox set up really requires 2 Allen wrenches to get the gaps for the side and thrust bearing set, once I figured that out it went pretty fast.

I got the fence parallel to the miter slot and the table to the blade vertically with a 6" and 12" machinist square. I stopped at this point, 3 months last spring with little work turned me into a sissy, wrestling the saw yesterday and last night getting it onto the mobile base took a toll on my neck, shoulders and back.

I have to loosen up the table to square it to the blade horiz. As for wheel alignment, (coplanarity) I think I'm going to test run it 1st before I get into it. It requires one to remove the table from the saw to test and align if there is a problem.

Anyway to the cupboard for some Ibuprofen and the easy chair.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

RustyW said:


> Ronald, this ones pretty basic, but it's about as good as any BS video I've seen.
> 
> Podcast #22: Buying & Getting the Most Out of Your Band Saw — Woodworking Online


That's the one I was looking for to suggest. Good video.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Crappy looking saw if you ask me. I'll trade you my Delta and take that junk off your hands.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

After supper I went back to the saw and thought I'd squared the 1/2" blade to the miter slot. I noticed as I pushed the 1st piece along the fence that the piece began to drift to the right, (toward the blade) not the blade drifting in the stock. I rechecked the parallel with a 1/32" marked ruler and discovered a difference, close to 3/64" longer at the out feed end of the table.

So I decided to change out the blade for the 1" and do it all over again. 

OY! 
Changing out to the same width blade won't be so bad, changing out to smaller is a lot more work, changing out to bigger is just plain cruelty. Larger stiffer blade with bigger teeth. 

So ... next time I wear gloves! I have an impression in my right thumb of 3 teeth, I got so mad, I think I scared my thumb into not bleeding!

Basically I had to redo everything I did earlier today plus remove and then replace the lower right side blade guard and set the lower side and thrust bearings. Once that was completed I reset the blade to miter slot to about 1/64 of perfect. 

Once I had the saw running again, (don't know if I had to but did it anyway) I reset the upper thrust bearing, it seems the blade was bouncing off, (for a lack of a better description) the thrust bearing and tossing off the occasional spark without pushing material through it.

Once happy, I set up for my 1st resaw, a chunk of 4X4 fir. I set it for a 3/16 rip and it went as close to perfect as my limited experience can expect with no drift. It seemed a bit slow compared to some of the work I've seen on TV but I'm guessing I probably should have picked a 4 or 3 tpi instead of 6. The cut is pretty smooth though, requiring little sanding. 

I'm guessing a carbide blade would be more efficient.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Ghidrah said:


> Once I had the saw running again, (don't know if I had to but did it anyway) I reset the upper thrust bearing, it seems the blade was bouncing off, (for a lack of a better description) the thrust bearing and tossing off the occasional spark without pushing material through it.


Do you have a diamond hone or something similar?
With the saw running press it lightly against the back edge and corners to smooth them. Makes turning the workpiece for cutting curves easier. I believe it was shown in the video that was referenced earlier.
I also use these to true up my grinding wheels.
Buy DMT Diamond Whetstone Kit at Woodcraft.com


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

AxlMyk,
No I don't, but I'll be getting one. I don't suppose the bump out occurs at the weld point?

Another thing I noticed last night, the saw has, for a lack of better term a base plate, it holds the lower bearing set and acts as an interface between the saw body and the table set-up. I noticed, (when installing the 1" blade) the base plate has 2 blade guards mounted above the lower bearings. The right side guard is about 3/32" away from the blade and the left side is about 5/16"

I think I'm going to go through a base plate, bearing and table realignment all over again, when complete I think I'll be good to go. There's no question this puppy is top heavy and lopsided. 

The factory installed a heavy duty eye on top of the machine, (to facilitate easy moving) where in a factory setting with a ceiling crane? I think what I'll do is place 2 eyes in the 1st floor joists, where I park it and where I use it so I can cable it when in position.

Here's some pics on the condition of the shipping crate. The driver wouldn't let me shoot the pics in the trailer, the saw was like this on its side in the trailer with a delta mortiser and some other box on top of it. The box the fence was in was pulled out through the gap in the middle pic


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

That is pretty shoddy shipping for any saw. I hope you complain to BOTH the retailer and manufacturer. Send the pictures along with the complaint.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Ronald,

Send the pics to the people of whom you made the purchase. The delivery driver should have made sure it was properly secured before hitting the road, they are responsible for the load(s) they haul up to a point. If it's not secured properly and it gets damaged, you're not at fault. Most generally, the shipper will replace with a new one. As Deb stated, complain to them, if you have the name of the delivery truck, complain to them as well. It's unfortunate that this happened, IMHO, uncalled for as well. These trailers have latches both in the walls an the floor for securing freight. Not sure as to why the driver wouldn't let you take pics while it was still in the trailer. Probably trying to cover his own backside. At work, we have our own shipping an receiving dept. I do know how it works. 

Yes, that does look like a poor shipping crate. 

I'm not sure of the "foot print" your new BS has but, have you considered a mobile base for it? It may help to stabilize it.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Sort of brings to mind the Mastercard commercial, 

Band saw $2,500.00
Accessories $500.00
Shipping Cost $300.00
Cost of Making Crate PRICELESS!

Don't mean to poke fun ta you but that is some god awful packing sorry about your luck lets hope the saw holds for ya better than the crate did.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Ron:

That looks like one heck of a nice piece of equipment. But, I'd be screaming like hell that my purchase arrived in such poor condition.

Ron


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Mike said:


> A band saw is on my want list. I look forward to hearing your comments on this saw once you get used to it.


Wot He Said........

Congrats on the new addition.

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Bandsaw video/DVD*

If this has not already been mentioned, I would have a look at the Taunton Press DVD 'Mastering your bandsaw' by Mark Duginske.


James


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ron

Nice band saw,,,but stop,,,call Amazon,,,they will ship one more,,it's now or never,,,it's not a cheap saw and for that price you want it right from the get go..

I know you are saying but that's one more week I will need to wait for it,,,,it's now or never  one more week is not a big deal.. if you don't every time you look at it...it will bug you, like a year or two down the road..

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Ghidrah said:


> I finally broke down and bought a band saw, I wanted/needed one for yrs but always had some other tool, calamity or thing to get or do that was more important at the moment. I bought a Shop Fox W1707 2 hp 17" bandsaw.
> 
> There have been so many projects that would have been so much easier with a BS. Last winter including. I now have a large sundeck coming up where I'll need to pare down 6X6 privacy screen posts and a couple 4X4 swinging doors. I've held off on making new kitchen cabs because I wanted to do some clever book marking for panels and doors.
> 
> ...


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Hamlin,
It'll be 2 shippers, Both of which I never heard of, ABF which ships all over the country except Cape Cod. The saw was transferred to a smaller shipper Cape Cod Something in Prov. RI. Woodstock Int. (manfc.) sells to wholesale, So there's a long trail Amazon, Hdwr. Sales Inc, Woodstock Int. ABF, CCS. 

Diesel, 
I know and no offense taken. This was the 1st time I bought a shop tool online. All my other tools were from Wood Workers Warehouse and later Western tool Supply when WWW caved. Both Co. had an outlet a couple towns over so I always picked up the shipped tool from their store, (TS, Molder/Planer, Drum Sander, Drill Press, Jointer) all small parts were boxed in cardboard all heavy parts in a 2X4 pallet Config.

And so the heaviest tool I own came in crating that wouldn't protect anything.

Allthumbs,
Thanks, I finally got everything lined up properly this morning for the 3rd time. I have high suspicion that the saw was a floor model, (not a usable demo) in a store. So much of what was attached was done so poorly that it couldn't be run safely and ensure the longevity of the parts and blades.

AxlMyk,
I took some white out and marked the blade where it moves out to the lower thrust bearing. 2 things I learned.
1. If the guard was down to 3" from the bed the blade contacted the thrust bearing for a total of 31".
2. If the guard was retracted to the full 12" it only contacted the bearing for 6 ". 
So the guide tracking/elevator unit must be out a smidge, in either case it was nearly equal to either side of the weld.

I put my oil stone on it, which improved it a little, I pulled out one of my fine files and worked it down to about 3" either side of the weld regardless of the position of the tracking unit. 
With little experience with BS blades, I"m thinking this may be a poorly made inexpensive ($27) Lenox blade, 

Bobj3,
I intend on writing letters to all, but I have a feeling that at best I'll get a run around with so many hands on the till.

Fact is, after spending the weekend on the saw getting everything lined up the only thing wrong with it I can tell, (excluding the scratches on the body and fence and the slight offset of the tracking unit front to back) is the wobble in the blade above&below and front to back of the weld.

This morn, once I was satisfied with everything but the wobble I started it again, raised and lowered the guard, listened and sniffed for unpleasant things. after 5 minutes I stopped the saw set the fence for a 1/16" rip on 4X4 fir and some 8/4 oak both, "like a fart in a mitten", (local carpenter term for very nice), don't ask I don't know, there was a lot of sex, drugs and Rock&Roll going around back then, I only know what it means.

I put a 6" machinist square to the fence side remainder, 90° for both.

So far, 
1. scratches on doors and fence.
2. 1" blade wobble minimized but problematic, I hope higher priced blades are formed more precisely (you can feel it pulse through the stock as the weld passes). 
3. Fence to tracking guide/elevator unit. The tracking unit's guide bearing Allen screws get in the way of the 4" high fence when the tracking unit is set to 3 3/16 above the table, the closest the fence can be set is 1 3/4" to the blade. At worst 1 15/16 to the blade when the tracking unit is set at 2 5/16 above the table.

So maybe there's a lower fence option or I'll have to pad the fence for low rips.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Did you watch the podcast on choosing a BS? They have some good tips for you to rectify some common problems found in setting up a new BS.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Ron,

I'd like to second BobJ's recommendation. Call the company you purchased it from and tell them that *they* have a problem. You bought the saw from them and they arranged its delivery. They can argue with the shipper all they want. Your contract is with them (you paid them) and you expect a new saw. Who pays for the replacement is none of your business.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ron

I will say this one more time,,CALL Amazon,,you will be amazed, they will do what you ask,,( "I WANT A NEW ONE Please ") they don't care why ,they have 100% guarantee ..

I know I did the same thing on a CMT router table,it was the best service,it was so good I got a FREE router table fence..( 249.oo item) all shipped Fed Ex, free of charge...they also shipped the new one by Fed Ex, free shipping..


A letter is nice but a phone call works fast..you need to take my word for it,,,once it went down to the ground ,,that was it,,,,it's not your fault ,return it and you will be a happy band saw user  you may need to dig your feet in just a little bit but you will get a new one.. 




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Ghidrah said:


> Hamlin,
> It'll be 2 shippers, Both of which I never heard of, ABF which ships all over the country except Cape Cod. The saw was transferred to a smaller shipper Cape Cod Something in Prov. RI. Woodstock Int. (manfc.) sells to wholesale, So there's a long trail Amazon, Hdwr. Sales Inc, Woodstock Int. ABF, CCS.
> 
> Diesel,
> ...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Ronald,

Not to sound like a broken record but, YES, call Amazon. You will most likely get the run around but, ask for the head honcho's. The run around will be worth it in the end. Again, I feel that the delivery driver that wouldn't let you take pics was at fault. They should never not allow you to take pics of your shipment. At work, we do take pics all the time. One, it covers our butts for the loading and unloading. 2, it shows the damage was done before we accepted the shipment. We go through this alot at work. So, just know you aren't alone in this.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Hamlin,
I know the power of the camera and work diary, both have served me and past employers well in court. 

But frankly guys outside of being pissed at the scratches and lousy packing there's nothing wrong with the saw's operation. Everything lines up, everything that should be square is, no missing parts, no horrible noises. 

The pics below show the digs and scratches the middle pic is the fence. I didn't know about the marks on the door till Bro-in-law helped me stand the saw in the driveway. Both doors were still closed so the door stratches weren't made by us. You can't replace the doors without grinding the hinges off.

If there were an operation issue I would have sucked it up and called immediately after discovering it. I'd try begging some old friends to see if any had a bandsaw large enough to do the rips, odds are none do, most of the guys I know my age that are still in the trade work for someone else. The rest that have BSs and do tinkering have the little bench tops A Thomas might have one, not sure, after he broke both legs, hip and arm in a fall a few yrs. back he doesn't do much but greet people at Walmart. 

If not, I'm also sure the deck customer I need the saw for would call off the contract in favor of someone who could get it done for his deadline. I had put him off for a couple weeks.

Without actually calling someone yet I can tell you what I know from past experience with returns. 
1. The business wants the item back 1st before they ship out a replacement.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ron

Good luck with your new scratch and dent saw   some time down the road you may want to sell it... 

" 1. The business wants the item back 1st before they ship out a replacement." they don't  

100% satisfaction ,no questions ask  one picture or two pictures will get you a brand new one on your door step..


good luck
=========




Ghidrah said:


> Hamlin,
> I know the power of the camera and work diary, both have served me and past employers well in court.
> 
> But frankly guys outside of being pissed at the scratches and lousy packing there's nothing wrong with the saw's operation. Everything lines up, everything that should be square is, no missing parts, no horrible noises.
> ...


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

"2. 1" blade wobble minimized but problematic, I hope higher priced blades are formed more precisely (you can feel it pulse through the stock as the weld passes)."

Woops. Search the web for instructions on how to adjust your saw blade wheel's coplanar. If you can, compare your top band wheel with the bottom one. They should be perfectly in line with each other, all edges. This will "adjust for" wobble. My adjustment is on the neck at about the level of the table. There's one huge bolt there and all I had to do was loosen the blade, loosen the bolt, bump it around a bit until the wheels came into line, then tighten up the bolt. Some guys will take the blade out. I've had to adjust mine quite a bit until I realized that the previous owner had shimmed up the neck rather than adjust the blade tension.

Hope this helps.

Allthunbs


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Allthumbs,
The wobble is in the 1" blade only. The 1/2" that came with the saw did not wobble front to back. The wobble occurs at and likely due to a misaligned weld, I'd guess a bad cross cut of the band. The pulse is due to the back side of the band pushing against the thrust bearing.

If I understand it correctly, Co planarity is the flat plane orientation between the 2 wheels not a wobble on one or the other, wheel wobble makes noise. It's closer to the caster and camber of your car or truck wheels. If both BS wheels weren't parallel, I don't believe tracking adjustments would work, the blade would still slide back and forth over the tire crowns between the to wheels.

The blade stays put on the tire, the wheels make 2 1/2 revolutions per weld contact. If there were a co planarity or tracking issue wouldn't the blade also contact the bearing at points not the weld? The wheels track, neither wheel shows warpage, there is no in-out movement of the bottom wheel whether the tension lever is engaged or not. My saw has 2 view plates the front allows a look at the top wheel, I can see nor feel any oscillations

Bobj3,
As noted this is the 1st big tool I bought over the net, I have bought lots of PC equipment and other things, and every single time whether it was memory, HD or planer blades you have to fill out an RMS and mail the item back before the distributor will process and send out the replacement.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Ghidrah said:


> Allthumbs,
> The wobble is in the 1" blade only. The 1/2" that came with the saw did not wobble front to back. The wobble occurs at and likely due to a misaligned weld, I'd guess a bad cross cut of the band. The pulse is due to the back side of the band pushing against the thrust bearing.
> 
> If I understand it correctly, Co planarity is the flat plane orientation between the 2 wheels not a wobble on one or the other, wheel wobble makes noise. It's closer to the caster and camber of your car or truck wheels. If both BS wheels weren't parallel, I don't believe tracking adjustments would work, the blade would still slide back and forth over the tire crowns between the to wheels.
> ...


Hi Ron:

With my 1" metal blade, I have a tiny bit of a "thump" as the weld hits my guide blocks because of the lack of flexing of the weld. This is not related to the co-planar adjustment. Co-planar is when the top and bottom wheels are not perfectly in line with each other. This is what will cause the blade to wander back and forth. 

My 1/2" blade doesn't wander either but my 1" takes some major concentration to get to track nicely. If there were a problem with your 1" blade, take a straight edge and put it on the back of the blade by the weld, without tension, and see if it is straight. It should be, no matter how cheap the blade. If it isn't, I'd send the blade back as being too dangerous to use. That weld will cause the blade to jump around as you put pressure on it while cutting.

Hope this helps.

Allthunbs


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