# tongue and groove routing



## BrooklynWoodworker (Oct 1, 2014)

I am running a Bosch 1617 in my router table. I have some great white oak slabs that are 2" thick that I would like to join to make a table top. I was wondering if there is a tongue and grove bit set that will work for wood that thick. Any Suggestions? Also what tongue and groove bit set would be an all around good bit set.

Thank you for the help.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Hi N/A and welcome to the forum. I don't know of any sets that large for a router. All the ones I'm familiar with are for probably 1" max. I would suggest you think about splining instead. You can use one large one or two or more thin ones but if you do that gluing open time could be an issue. I joined two 1 1/2" think pieces for a mantle top using a 1/2" spline and I was just able to get it together in time (7' long). The added advantage of using splines is that no wood is wasted. With tongue and groove or glue joint bits you lose 3/8" to 1/2" of wood making the joint.


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## Salty Dawg (Jan 24, 2014)

Wonder if you could set the bit up for 1" stock, run the tongue then flip the board over & cut the groove.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I second Charles' spline suggestion. I did our wall to wall (14' L x 16" deep) mantle out of full 2" thickness quarter sawn D. fir using a 1/2" plywood spline. It was a beast to install, but in spite of the stresses and heat from the fireplace, there's never been a problem with joints opening.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Matthew.


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## carlp. (Nov 3, 2012)

*tonque and groove routing*

Hi as Charles said in his reply only way to go is with a spline, have used this joint for my work bench top and had no problems.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Hi N/A and welcome to the forum. I don't know of any sets that large for a router. All the ones I'm familiar with are for probably 1" max. *I would suggest you think about splining instead.* You can use one large one or two or more thin ones but if you do that gluing open time could be an issue. I joined two 1 1/2" think pieces for a mantle top using a 1/2" spline and I was just able to get it together in time (7' long). The added advantage of using splines is that no wood is wasted. With tongue and groove or glue joint bits you lose 3/8" to 1/2" of wood making the joint.


second the splineing...


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## denis lock (Oct 26, 2007)

Before you can cut any fancy glue joint on your router table (or grooves for splines) the edges have to accurately jointed. If you have got thus far why don't you make a butt joint with biscuits to aid with alignment. With modern adhesives a well prepared and well clamped butt joint is stronger than the wood being joined. You don't need any expensive router cutters.

Denis Lock - "Routing with Denis"


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

denisl said:


> Before you can cut any fancy glue joint on your router table (or grooves for splines) the edges have to accurately jointed. If you have got thus far why don't you make a butt joint with biscuits to aid with alignment. With modern adhesives a well prepared and well clamped butt joint is stronger than the wood being joined. You don't need any expensive router cutters.
> 
> Denis Lock - "Routing with Denis"


I have to agree with Denis. A properly jointed edge, either on the jointer or the table saw, then clamped with straight edges on the front and back, to prevent bowing. The joints of the top will never fail. Takes a hell of a lot of clamps for a large top!

Dick


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