# Finger joint jig



## Spacemanspiff (Sep 11, 2004)

How do people do their finger joints here? I am wanting to make a start on these and I am unsure whether I want a "cheap and cheerful" jig or something that rivals building the Titanic for engineering feats. So, what does everyone use?

Thanks all
Aaron


----------



## Ken Massingale (Sep 11, 2004)

Assuming finger and box joints are the same for this post, search for Lynn's Jig. Easy to build and very precise.
ken


----------



## Spacemanspiff (Sep 11, 2004)

Thanks Ken I'll have a look.

Aaron


----------



## fredsintheshop (Sep 10, 2004)

I built one out of MDF and Hardboard that is similar to B&R's. Quick and dirty.


----------



## Spacemanspiff (Sep 11, 2004)

Well so long as it does the trick!!


----------



## bobmac0825 (Feb 13, 2009)

I have just completed a version of Lynn's Box Joint Jig, based on Lee Styron's (Leeway Workshops) more stable design of the same item and it works very well. It will make box joints on boards up to about 13 inches wide. It makes completely variable box joints based on the width of the saw blade and I achieve this by incorporating an indexing knob that I have divided into eighths. Using this indexing knob I can vary the joints even more as long as I record the exact turns that I make, as a guide. I don't have a photo as yet but I may still do that as it is difficult to describe properly. I would recommend Lynn's Jig. Cheers, Bob.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

These days I have a set of three OakPark spacer jigs, low cost, simple and work well. Previously I used this reversible home made one which also produced good quality box joints. I suppose it depends on the joints you expect, the ease of use and or the money you are prepared to invest.


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> These days I have a set of three OakPark spacer jigs, low cost, simple and work well. Previously I used this reversible home made one which also produced good quality box joints. I suppose it depends on the joints you expect, the ease of use and or the money you are prepared to invest.


Has anyone used the Oak Park jigs with a Triton router table? I've both and before I start drilling any holes I'd be interested in other's experiences.

Cheers

Peter


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I used to have a Triton router table Peter (and was very happy with it) and I see no reason why you can't fit the OakPark spacer fences to it. I fitted them to my cast iron table, here is a link to the thread.

Router Forums - View Single Post - A big thank you to Bob Noles


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> I used to have a Triton router table Peter (and was very happy with it) and I see no reason why you can't fit the OakPark spacer fences to it. I fitted them to my cast iron table, here is a link to the thread.
> 
> Router Forums - View Single Post - A big thank you to Bob Noles


Thanks Harry ! That's a nice cast table you've got there!

Cheers

Peter


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

istracpsboss said:


> Thanks Harry ! That's a nice cast table you've got there!
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


It looks better than it is Peter, in retrospect I should have kept the Triton.


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> It looks better than it is Peter, in retrospect I should have kept the Triton.


How come? What did you prefer about the Triton?

Cheers

Peter


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Incidentally, I've actually got two. One I bought specifically and another I've yet to build a base for, that arrived as part of a job lot of Triton bits that I got off eBay for buttons. It's the older type and came with the fence and guard but no bolts. It also came with an extension table for something. and an odd assortment of square tube. I keep thinking of building a simple base for it and leaving it set up with one of the more commonly used cutters so that I can do quick jobs on it. It's a hangover from a philosophy of keeping tools I've upgraded from set up permanently for something, like the way I've always got a rose bit in an old drill. Just pick it up and use it, instead of swapping cutters/bits.

Does anyone else do this?

Cheers

Peter


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

istracpsboss said:


> How come? What did you prefer about the Triton?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


It worked very well and the biscuit jointer was great. I originally had the first model then changed to the new one with the sliding piece at the front which made it very versatile. I also made a box joint jig for it before Triton produced one. All together it did what it was supposed to do and did it well.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

istracpsboss said:


> Incidentally, I've actually got two. One I bought specifically and another I've yet to build a base for, that arrived as part of a job lot of Triton bits that I got off eBay for buttons. It's the older type and came with the fence and guard but no bolts. It also came with an extension table for something. and an odd assortment of square tube. I keep thinking of building a simple base for it and leaving it set up with one of the more commonly used cutters so that I can do quick jobs on it. It's a hangover from a philosophy of keeping tools I've upgraded from set up permanently for something, like the way I've always got a rose bit in an old drill. Just pick it up and use it, instead of swapping cutters/bits.
> 
> Does anyone else do this?
> 
> ...


Peter,

Rose bit? Is that a countersink bit?


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Rose bit? Is that a countersink bit?"

Yes they are the same though I haven' heard them called that since I left England in 1964.
__________________


----------



## HDS (Jun 3, 2009)

Please stop calling Box Joints, "Finger Joints".
Finger jointing is done with an edge profiling tool with several slot cutters on an arbor.
Finger jointing is an edge jointing method like a sophisticated version of Tongue and groove, by which multiple tongues and grooves provide even better surface area at the edge for a stronger glue bond.

Put finger joint cutter into a websearch to see what the cutters look like!
And for heavens sake please lets all use common terminology so we all understand what's people are talking about.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Henry

One picture is worth a 1000 words 


1 PC 1/2" Shank Adjustable Finger Joint Router Bit - eBay (item 130319501398 end time Jul-25-09 12:15:51 PDT)


1 PC 1/2" SH 5 Slots Adjustable Box Joint Router Bit - eBay (item 140334747651 end time Jul-28-09 10:45:41 PDT)


2pc 1/2"SH Adjustabal Box & Finger Joint Router Bit Set - eBay (item 130319984304 end time Jul-27-09 13:27:06 PDT)


Diff. type Finger Joint Router Bit all in one bit set
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop.../bt_box_finger_joint.html#finger_joint_anchor

======


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

HDS said:


> Please stop calling Box Joints, "Finger Joints".
> Finger jointing is done with an edge profiling tool with several slot cutters on an arbor.
> Finger jointing is an edge jointing method like a sophisticated version of Tongue and groove, by which multiple tongues and grooves provide even better surface area at the edge for a stronger glue bond.
> 
> ...


I hope all members have taken note, further breaches of terminology will be severely dealt with even if we know what you mean!


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

So Harry.. Does this mean the beatings will continue until morale improves? <g>


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> I hope all members have taken note, further breaches of terminology will be severely dealt with even if we know what you mean!


Harry,

Does that mean we will require an official interpreter?? (or them LOL)

James


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Absolutely Jim!


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> Harry,
> 
> Does that mean we will require an official interpreter?? (or them LOL)
> 
> James


No James, most members appear to be pretty smart and well able to interpret for themselves.


----------



## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

You guys are messin with the newbies! 
BJ Thanks for clearing that up. Just like mud....lol


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Deb.. I did a double-take too but one bit cuts square notches in the wood and the other has tapered notches so you can slide them in until they fit snugly.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

CanuckGal said:


> You guys are messin with the newbies!
> BJ Thanks for clearing that up. Just like mud....lol


Yes, Deb

Sometime we get off topic and light headed, but this is what makes this forum the big family it is.

James


----------



## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jim .. *click* The light when on, thanks for pointing that out!


> Sometime we get off topic and light headed, but this is what makes this forum the big family it is.


Light headed eh? Guess that's where I fit in


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> It worked very well and the biscuit jointer was great. I originally had the first model then changed to the new one with the sliding piece at the front which made it very versatile. I also made a box joint jig for it before Triton produced one. All together it did what it was supposed to do and did it well.


Hi Harry

I'm getting round to the idea of mounting my OP box joint jigs on the old Triton router table, rather than drill holes in the new one. 
The old one doesn't have the lift out router mounting plate. As I only got the top and fence in the job lot, I cannot see how the router mounts, although I did also get in the same job lot a spare sliding carriage for a Workcentre that might convert to some sort of mounting.
Can you offer any clues as to how the router mounted in the Mk ! Triton router tables please?

Cheers

Peter


----------



## HDS (Jun 3, 2009)

*Try an Incra Jig!*



Spacemanspiff said:


> How do people do their finger joints here? I am wanting to make a start on these and I am unsure whether I want a "cheap and cheerful" jig or something that rivals building the Titanic for engineering feats. So, what does everyone use?
> 
> Thanks all
> Aaron


Hi Aaron,
I'm guessing you're lucky enough to be in the US or Canada, (Sorry forgot to look at your profile before starting this response).
I bought an Incra Jig from Rockler when I was in the US a few years ago.
Cost was a little over $50 USD including state taxes as the item was on offer, I bought the miter 1000se mitre guage, Incra rules, and A Kreg K# Master system at the same time such was the exchange rate GBP to USD at the time.
My Incra Jig has to be the single most useful purchase next to my router.
With a little patience to set up and calibrate for the first time, fantastic results are easy and intuitive within minutes.
Box joints ( Finger Joints as you refer) and Dovetails are so accurate, repeatable and quick.
With some ingenuity you can make a precision Jointing fence, templates to set up bit heights for dovetailing. And much much more!
The Oak Park jig though simple and perhaps a lot cheaper will only be good for box joints, an Incra Jig is so much more versatile.
I just finished a coffee table in Sapele, nearly all my stock preparation, (with the exception of thicknessing), was carried out using my incra jig, a home made fence and my mitre guage.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Henry, when you compare a $22 jig against the $100 Incra base set up you should expect differences. The Oak Park jigs are beyond question the fastest, easiest way to make box joints, both standard and angled. This does not say anything bad about the Incra jig. More members will opt for the Oak Park jigs simply because of the price and ease of use.


----------



## bobmac0825 (Feb 13, 2009)

harrysin said:


> I hope all members have taken note, further breaches of terminology will be severely dealt with even if we know what you mean!


A little while ago I searched for 'Finger joint jig' and got 50,800 entries and though I naturally did not look at all of them, the first few hundred or so, in the vast majority, were all dealing with 'box joint jigs'. So, there are a heck of a lot of people around the world who have to be educated. Anyway it's an ambivalent issue and all very pedantic. Cheers, Bob.


----------



## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

NO no ! It's Potato not...Potato.


----------



## Pecos kid (Jan 15, 2014)

Does anyone have or know where I can get print of Lynn Box Jig, Found on shark guard but can't read. I've start to make my own design but everyone talks about this one but I can't find it.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Ron,

You will need Adobe Reader to read the file.

I downloaded the file from www.thesharkguard.com/lynnsjig.pdf‎ and had no trouble.


the file is attached...

http://worldofwood.proboards.com/thread/1509

This one is from Joe Lyddon, a forum member...

http://www.woodworkstuff.net/lynnjig.html


----------



## Pecos kid (Jan 15, 2014)

I have looked in vain for Lynn box joint and no success could you please help in any way!


----------



## Pecos kid (Jan 15, 2014)

Boy was that quick! Thanks so much I had the plans and printed before I could even blink! Will start on this right away!


----------

