# Upgraded Router Table



## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

Finally got the new top finished. 2 pieces of 3/4 mdf with a laminate top. Added a Woodpecker plate, new t track miter slot. 
I also got the Rockler coping sled since I am making a few doors now.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Great job Clay . I'm hoping my table saw extention router top turns out this nice . I am going to do the perimeter similar to yours , in 3/4" wood . They want over $8 a foot for the good stuff so I'm going to go with hemlock . 
( although I know it's to soft and I should have bought a plainer )
Wish you had a few more pics as I'd like to get a better look at the rear of the fence and see how you lock it down and maybe a pic under the table


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Hemlock? Awe Rick, how about at least poplar? I use maple or alder they both look good and mill good.

Herb


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

RainMan1 said:


> Great job Clay . I'm hoping my table saw extention router top turns out this nice . I am going to do the perimeter similar to yours , in 3/4" wood . They want over $8 a foot for the good stuff so I'm going to go with hemlock .
> ( although I know it's to soft and I should have bought a plainer )
> Wish you had a few more pics as I'd like to get a better look at the rear of the fence and see how you lock it down and maybe a pic under the table


 I will post some up when I get it completed. This one is more of a prototype. I want the sliding part to be replaceable so I can use it for zero clearance.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

$8 a foot?! What kind of hardwood are you talking about, Rick? That's highway robbery for anything other than some exotic species from deepest darkest Amazonia.
Try a hardwood flooring contractor, cabinet shop, furniture manufactures.
They all will have Maple, Birch, Oak, and probably Alder in planks. They might sell you a plank or two...

Here's a couple in Cranbrook. Our BC lumberyards are useless for hardwoods; no idea why. 
Quad City Building Materials Cranbrook BC, V1C 7J2 ? Manta.com
Gipman Millwork and Design


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

fire65 said:


> I will post some up when I get it completed. This one is more of a prototype. I want the sliding part to be replaceable so I can use it for zero clearance.


Thanks for sharing Clay . I'm very interested in fences right now too . I was going to build a few different versions . Soon as I get off this dam forum lol


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Clay I noticed earlier that you routed the miter channel slot too, as it looks perfectly formed with the sides of the top . 
I guess the router bits can take going threw a bit of aluminum?


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

RainMan1 said:


> Clay I noticed earlier that you routed the miter channel slot too, as it looks perfectly formed with the sides of the top .
> I guess the router bits can take going threw a bit of aluminum?


 I added 3/4 solid to the edge of the mdf then I added the laminate. I put a chamfer on the top then cut the dado for the track. 
The track was cut to length then I used my grinder and a file to get it close. Once installed I filed and sanded it to fit the chamfer.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

fire65 said:


> I added 3/4 solid to the edge of the mdf then I added the laminate. I put a chamfer on the top then cut the dado for the track.
> The track was cut to length then I used my grinder and a file to get it close. Once installed I filed and sanded it to fit the chamfer.


Thanks . Glad I asked as I was going to go about this the wrong way . Never thought of installing the 3/4" sides and then laminating . Good stuff!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Clay , one more silly question . Did you glue the two mdf halfs together , or just use screws ? 
The reason I ask is a member here mentioned possible warping if two layers were glued together


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

Cut one to the finished table size, cut the second 1/4" bigger, glue, clamp, screw. Then flush trim for a perfect top. I like the laminate over the edge for applications like this so there is no edge seam.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Impressive, Clay. Do you have any more shots of your fence? I need to make a better one and am collecting ideas.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Clay when you glue the wood to the mdf on the sides of the table , do you use biscuits , nails? 
I was just going to clamp and glue


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Clay when you glue the wood to the mdf on the sides of the table , do you use biscuits , nails?
> I was just going to clamp and glue


Just clamp and glue on a large flat surface like the table saw. You risk the chance of dimpling the surface with screws. You may also unintentionally skew the work surface.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Rick; I like to rebate the wood edge to hug the panel edge both on the contact side, and the bottom face as well; makes assembly a lot easier, especially if you get the depth of the rebate exact, ie level with the panel top when glued and clamped.
Basically no fiddling with the edges while the glue is setting up...


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

RainMan1 said:


> Clay , one more silly question . Did you glue the two mdf halfs together , or just use screws ?
> The reason I ask is a member here mentioned possible warping if two layers were glued together


Ooh, that's a timely question. I was thinking about this earlier and will be doing something this weekend (I hope).


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

Mine is glued and screwed, no idea why glue would cause warping. IMO it will not warp because of the size of it, to small with to much support. My last one was over 10 years old and still flat. 
If you are really concerned about warping I think I would go with some torsion box design. I could also add oak or metal runners underneath it. I also hinge my top for easy access if needed.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

fire65 said:


> Finally got the new top finished. 2 pieces of 3/4 mdf with a laminate top. Added a Woodpecker plate, new t track miter slot.
> I also got the Rockler coping sled since I am making a few doors now.


Clay I watched a video recently as I didn't know what a coping sled was , or for . Looks pretty important to me now that I seen woodpeckers video on there's .
I seen guys also making there own and they were quite rudimentary , but they really seemed to work well for routing end pieces . Basically a few pieces of MDF and an air nailer


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

RainMan1 said:


> Clay I watched a video recently as I didn't know what a coping sled was , or for . Looks pretty important to me now that I seen woodpeckers video on there's .
> I seen guys also making there own and they were quite rudimentary , but they really seemed to work well for routing end pieces . Basically a few pieces of MDF and an air nailer


 I had a shop made one before this, pretty basic but worked fine. I just decided to give this one a try. 
I really like the clear guard and the way it references to the fence without the sled being able to hit the bit.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

fire65 said:


> I had a shop made one before this, pretty basic but worked fine. I just decided to give this one a try.
> I really like the clear guard and the way it references to the fence without the sled being able to hit the bit.


Geez Clay I have a plethora of 1/2" lexan kicking around my shop , but the coping sleds I see use 1/4" I suspect.
Will be tempted to try something though


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Clay I watched a video recently as I didn't know what a coping sled was , or for . Looks pretty important to me now that I seen woodpeckers video on there's .
> I seen guys also making there own and they were quite rudimentary , but they really seemed to work well for routing end pieces . Basically a few pieces of MDF and an air nailer


I like the one from Infinity a little better; and you know what a Woodpecker fan I am.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> I like the one from Infinity a little better; and you know what a Woodpecker fan I am.


Slick looking unit Brad , I'll have to check that out


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