# Mounting an Oak Park Box Jig on Non Oak Park Table



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I have Bench Dog router table and had purchased the Oak Park 1/4 and 3/8 box joint jigs for it. Since more than likely if you are using other than an Oak Park table, you will have to set it up and drill holes in the top of your router table. It was suggested by another member that I photo this process for the benefit of others so here goes. It will take me a couple posts here to get all the photos loaded up. Note I am installing the 1/4 inch jig.

Here is a shot of my Bench Dog Router Table as it is:









Here I have installed the 1/4 inch router bit in the table I will be using. Since I don't want to use a good spiral bit cause I am testing this with mdf and some aspen I will use just a 2 flute straight 1/4 inch bit. 









I now have the jig centered over the bit and I am going to use my router fence to help hold the jig in place here. 









I now add the 1/4 Oak Park bar between the bit and the fence. 









Happy with the position and everything looks good at this point so I add blocks and clamps around the router table to hold everything in place while I do my tests.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Ok, now it is time to do some test joints. Here is the material I will use to test with. 1/4 MDF and some 1/2 inch Aspen. 









I take the aspen material and clamp it together and use the 1/4 bar to offset the front piece. 









Ok after a few adjustments back in and out here are the test joints. I am happy with how these look. They are good and tight but not to tight you can assemble them. I didn't quite have the bit high enough in the 1/4 material as you can see. 

















Ok, it's time to drill the holes since I like the set up. I am using a 1/4 brad point bit. I remove my fence since it will interfere in the drilling. I add a couple more pieces and clamps to hold everything in place since I had to remove the fence. 









The holes are drilled and the bolts are placed in the jig. It is fine except due to the router plate supports being real close here to the holes I have to use nuts instead of the wingnuts. 









Photo showing the new holes drilled in the top without the jig on. Nice clean holes!









Here I have removed the 1/4 inch jig and installed the 3/8 jig in the same holes. I added a 3/8 straight bit and slid in a 3/8 set up bar and slides just in behind the jig just right! I didn't make any 3/8 inch test joints. 









Well that's it! Hope this helps others. 

Corey


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## mpphoto (May 7, 2006)

I need to get off my butt and drill my table as well.
Nice job Corey and thanks for the play by play.

Michael


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey Corey

You did a great JOB 

Now get Mark to place it on the FORUM where it can be seen by all that need it .

Bj


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

Very informative post, I think I'm going to stick this one. Thanks Corey!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks guys! Glad it worked out and hope it helps someone else. 

Corey


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Corey,

Nice job buddy! This will help many others that want to do this same thing. 

You have become a real asset to Routerforums and I knew you would be from day one :sold:


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Great job Corey.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Bob and Dave!! I appreciate it. 

Corey


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Corey,

I was thinking of getting the set of 3 jigs... 1/4, 3/8, & 1/2 which looks like a pretty good deal (based on your experiences).

Do you think you could have installed the 1/4" jig by merely using a space bar, bit, & jig... marking the holes and drilling them? During your testing, did you have to modify the way the jig was positioned?
I guess that once you setup one jig, all three work with the same mounting holes? If so, really a good deal!! Setup one, get three!   Yes?

Would a straight bit work OK with these jigs (a spiral working better, of course)?

I think you did a great job illustrating your How-to... Thank you for putting it together!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Do you think you could have installed the 1/4" jig by merely using a space bar, bit, & jig... marking the holes and drilling them?


Joe, I quess you could try to do that but in my opinion you need to have every thing held down and you should drill it thru the holes in the jig as it is a very precise set of holes. If their was just one it wouldn't be a big deal but since you have 2 that must match then I wouldn't. I didn't have alot of hang over on mine for clamps and the jig was more in the middle of the table so I kind of had to capture it in its place. 



Joe Lyddon said:


> During your testing, did you have to modify the way the jig was positioned? I guess that once you setup one jig, all three work with the same mounting holes? If so, really a good deal!! Setup one, get three!   Yes?


Joe, Yes I had to tweak it a bit. I had the bar wedged in to tight between the bit and the fence. I gave it a tiny bit of breathing room. Kind of hard to explain but it would slide out with a little help but not skate thru. Yes, all three jigs use the same holes for box joints anyway. The 3/8 and I think the 1/2 inch ( I dont' have the 1/2 inch) have an extra set of holes. These are used if you are going to do dove tails using the jigs. They can be drilled later when you are ready to do dove tails. I don't have intentions of using it for dovetails myself. 



Joe Lyddon said:


> Would a straight bit work OK with these jigs (a spiral working better, of course)?


I asked the same thing Joe. The answer to this became very apparent after Doing the testing. For testing yes, for doing nice work..no. I found that the straight bits tore out both materials pretty well. I asked Bobj if the spiral will cut down the majority of the tear out and I quote BobJ here:
"yes, because it's a spiral cut unlike the standard router bit and it's sharper also plus the top of the router bit is a true cutter all the way across the top of the bit, that's where the rip will start from the norm"
Combine this with a push block or a scrap backer and this should do it but I think straight fluted bits will be troublesome. I would hate to do have some of my expensive hardwood stock chewed up in the process. 

You could also go with just a 1/4 in jig. Spirals 1/4 in bits aren't much more than a straight bit. When you get to 3/8 inch they get expensive and start heading for 35.00-50.00 a bit. I didn't get the 1/2 set up cause I am not going to spend what they want for one of those bits and for my boxes I wouldn't want a 1/2 box joint anyway so I didn't get it. 



Joe Lyddon said:


> I think you did a great job illustrating your How-to... Thank you for putting it together!


Thanks Joe, I appreciate it. Hope I answered your questions. 

Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I would add one thing here. Of course you should always be aware of where your hands are, but with this jig you are work directly over the bit with the bit exiting out the back. I would use a push block thicker than the heighth of the bit and put a knob on it. Much the same as a daddo and you don't want your hand near that bit when it exits! 

Corey


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

challagan said:


> I would add one thing here. Of course you should always be aware of where your hands are, but with this jig you are work directly over the bit with the bit exiting out the back. I would use a push block thicker than the heighth of the bit and put a knob on it. Much the same as a daddo and you don't want your hand near that bit when it exits!
> 
> Corey


Corey,

Yes, I would always be using scrap Push blocks... maybe even a leading piece of scrap to keep tear out to a minimum.

A nice large Push block would also help keep them Vertical too  .

Thanks again... Super job!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Correct Joe. A large push block helps keep the pieces level, is much safer and reduces tear out. A piece of 4 x 4" that has been run over the bit so it works on the rail as a guide is the best push block. The wood has to be not just vertical for a good cut it has to pass the bit on a level plane.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Mike,

Very good points...

Have you noticed that Bob (of Bob & Rick), when he uses the jig, cuts each board by itself rather than clamping a bunch together and cutting all of them at one time?

I remember being told that cutting more at a time was more accurate and would ensure that they fit together better... Is that true?


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## ACV (Sep 19, 2006)

I was considering attaching to a Miter Slot Adapter or one made out of Uhmw Polyethylene...and clamping the other side, as I really don't want to be drilling holes right now (my table is 24 x 32). Any thoughts on this that I might be missing?
Allison


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi ACV
Can you take a snapshot of the "Miter Slot Adapter" in this case a picture is worth a 1000 words.  and then edit your post to show the snapshot.

Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi ACV

The pictures are great and I wish I could help with this jig BUT I not seen this type b/4 maybe one of the other menbers can help with this one. 

Bj 

But it's a great router table setup 

JUST A NOTE***the 1st snapshot looks like a drop and lock Tee slot device.
That's to say it has/needs a Allen flat screw that holds the jig in place.


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## Router is still my name (May 3, 2006)

That’s top of the line Jessem Mast-R-Lift XL table, I’ve drooled over that one profusely.


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## mpphoto (May 7, 2006)

ACV said:


> I was considering attaching to a Miter Slot Adapter or one made out of Uhmw Polyethylene...and clamping the other side, as I really don't want to be drilling holes right now


I must confess, if that were my table I probably wouldn't want to drill it either 
 

A miter slot adapter and some clamps would work. The idea behind drilling the holes is to allow you to quickly drop the jig in the correct spot each time you use it. By attaching it via the miter slot you might have to tweak it a little each time you set it up but I see no problem with that.

Let us know how it works out.
Michael


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Allison, your idea of using the adapter and clamp will work out fine. The angle the box joint jig is mounted to the table makes no difference, only the spacing from the bit to the jigs fence matters. Your wood will ride on top of the jig so there are no problems.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

You really don't need to drill if you don't want to. You just have to set it up each time you use it and that is fairly quick with the set up bars and just holding the jig in place so it can't move. 

Corey


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## ACV (Sep 19, 2006)

Thanks for the advice and for the compliments on the table...didn't get a bad deal at a tradeshow.
Allison


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## mpphoto (May 7, 2006)

*oak park jig on Freud table*

Well I guess today was my lucky day. I pulled out my Oak Park 3/8" jig which has been sitting here for months so that I could install it on my Freud benchtop table. I started to fool around with blocks and clamps when I noticed that the threaded inserts in the table which are used with the Freud fence line up perfectly with the Oak Park jig! What are the chances???
The inserts are 5/16 so I enlarged the holes on the jig to match. Once I fastened the jig I had to finesse it a touch for a perfect fit. I used the same finessing tool the router guys use (a hammer).

Well that was easy.
Michael


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Michael

My eyes are going bad I guess I can't see the Oak-Park jig in the snapshot I know it's white but I can't see it . 

Bj 

But that's a real nice router setup.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

BJ, Michael is saying the jig matches up perfectly with the threaded inserts in the table top where his fence mounts.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike
Yep, I was giving him a bad time hahahahahahaha LOL because it didn't post a snapshot of the GREAT Oak-Park jig as well .  

Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Wow, is that a coincidence or what! Nice set up as well!

Corey


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## mpphoto (May 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> Yep, I was giving him a bad time hahahahahahaha LOL because it didn't post a snapshot of the GREAT Oak-Park jig as well .
> 
> Bj


Everyone's a comedian  

Seems like the biggest trick with the OP jig is to make sure and keep the wood straight, square and plumb as you run it through the cutter. Sounds like a job for a giant right-angle push block.

Sometimes I get sidetracked so many times it's amazing I find my way back to what I was originally working on  

Michael


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Michael

hahahahaha  "Everyone's a comedian" 

I do try and keep it light 

I use a 2" x 6" push block and I do clamp 2 at one time, front and back and the two sides.

It works well most of the time, unless I'm using real hardwood, then I will drop back to one at a time, the heat build up thing.
I don't want to nail a bit for a dumb box joint. 

Bj


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## mpphoto (May 7, 2006)

Funny you should say that Bj. I was doing all of my tests using scraps of 1/2" cherry and clamping two at a time. I played with the setup for a while using a 3/8" spiral bit. By the time I was done the bit seemed a little "tired". I should probably replace the bit anyway as I've had it for a while but I'm thinking with cherry I might run one board through at a time, especially with 1/2" stock.

Michael


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Corey & All,

I received my set of 3 jigs and I think they are of SUPER quality!

I setup the 3/8 jig just like you did... to get in place & test & all... finally, drilling holes.
My top was too thick for their screws... luckily, I had some longer ones on hand. I don't find much slack for the fine adjustment tool though... tight fit.

It took a little tinkering... mine were always on the tight side... still might be a little too tight.

I cut up some strips for testing... ended up making 2 boxes about 3 x 3.25 x 3.25 and one 1.5 x 3 x 6... As it turned out, all of the testing wood was good enough to be made into something useful!! I like it when that happens... Will show pictures later... didn't take any in-process pics... just the finished stuff.

Your writeup helped me a lot...

Thank you very much!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Joe I am glad it worked out. If you want to put a little adjustability in it you could drill one out of the holes in your top slightly so you have about 1/32 of adjustability. If you do that then you need to block and clamp it once you get the right fit and you would have to do test fits each time to get it just right. 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

Just a hint/tip, don't drill the top out, and this is just my 2 cents, drill the jig out, if you have a cross vise for your drill press ,screw a block of wood to the back side of the jig about 1 1/2" wide clamp it into the vise and use a couter sink bit to make the hole a slot type counter sink slot, you can also do it will two boards clamped to the top side of the jig and on both side of the hole and do it free hand with care.
Do the counter sink 1st then drill out the hole. 

This is for the 3/8" jig the others jigs (1/4" and the 1/2" ) just need to be drilled out to the next drill bit size (9/64") and they will work just fine.

Make the slot about 1/2" to 5/8" long , now when you want to use the jig for dovetails it's set up for it also plus now you can use the fine ajusting tool ( Bob's Hammer) to tap it into the right spot ,then lock it down.

Just a note***I use Allen Flat Head screws and tee nuts in my top and I also cut off the sharp points on the tee nuts and use glue to hold the tee nuts in place on the bottom side,a little dab of monkey glue and they are locked in forever.
The nasty sharp point on tee nuts just down like to go into most man made wood products,I cut them off to about 1/16" long with a pair of wire cutters to a new sharp point that way they hold but don't need to go into stock all the way.
Besure to use the right drill bit for the tee nuts (1/4-20 is a " N " if I recall that right) that way the barrel on the tee nut will pull in just right.

Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Good idea BJ!

Corey


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Here is a link to the photo album where you can see the results of testing 
the Oak Park router box joint jigs...

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=842

Incidently, any of you can get setup and post images to the same site 
as I have done... 
It's FREE... No strings attached! 
(and it's easy to use!)


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

They look good to me Joe!

corey


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## JohnnyTest (Oct 25, 2004)

Got a 3/8" for Christmas and was wondering when you make box joint boxes, how do most of you attach the bottoms. I was thinking a dado would be cool, but that could be tricky that you don't come out to the end and see it when assembled. I guess a stop block would work, but I am weary lowering it onto a bit to get it started.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Putting the dado on all 4 parts can be a bit tricky but once you do it a time or two it's easy BUT you can attach the bottom part many ways.

One of them is to put in a rabbit cut on all 4 parts and just glue in the botom or top, one more way is to glue on the bottom and use a round over bit or a bead bit on the base so it looks like all in one box,one more way is to make the base over size and put on a rabbit cut so the sides slip down over the rabbit then put on a ogee bit and give it a nice cut.

Bj 

.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Corey..........you're photo-shoot is EXACTLY the sort of thing that I have been on about, just look at the interest that it created, imagine if every day a member or two posted similar photos. taken during a project,descriptions are one thing, but a series of photographs................definitely worth a thousand words. Congrats. on you're fine work. Harry


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Harry, I enjoy doing this kind of thing when I can. See my blog and the slotted hinge play by play. If I could ever get this kitchen remodel done I could spend alot more time with my boxes and junk in the shop!

Corey

P.S. thanks for the pics you posted on the scroll work template and holder!


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

This thread or whatever you call it, is a very good lesson in setting up the Oak Park spacers. Last night I had a little time and actually set one up (partially)

I was surprised to see that my brass bar was exactly 1/4 inch per my caliper but my MCLS 1/4 inch bit was a little under.

So now my question. After following these directions, I am very close to a good joint, but it is a little tight. I was surprised that a router bit would be a little under 1/4 inch and I image some are exactly 1/4 inch and some vary.

With that in mind, is there "wiggle room" when you drill the 1/4 inch holes for the spacer? I see that router guys fine adjusting the bits with a hammer, which is amusing. But I am reluctant to drill the holes and not have room to move the fence slightly to account for varying sizes of router bits.

This is a great tutorial.

Thanks

Steve Bolton


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

well, now I see my question is answered later in the thread (is that what we call these things). Bob, you said this:

Hi Guys

Just a hint/tip, don't drill the top out, and this is just my 2 cents, drill the jig out, if you have a cross vise for your drill press ,screw a block of wood to the back side of the jig about 1 1/2" wide clamp it into the vise and use a couter sink bit to make the hole a slot type counter sink slot, you can also do it will two boards clamped to the top side of the jig and on both side of the hole and do it free hand with care.
Do the counter sink 1st then drill out the hole. 

This is for the 3/8" jig the others jigs (1/4" and the 1/2" ) just need to be drilled out to the next drill bit size (9/64") and they will work just fine.

Make the slot about 1/2" to 5/8" long , now when you want to use the jig for dovetails it's set up for it also plus now you can use the fine ajusting tool ( Bob's Hammer) to tap it into the right spot ,then lock it down.

Just a note***I use Allen Flat Head screws and tee nuts in my top and I also cut off the sharp points on the tee nuts and use glue to hold the tee nuts in place on the bottom side,a little dab of monkey glue and they are locked in forever.
The nasty sharp point on tee nuts just down like to go into most man made wood products,I cut them off to about 1/16" long with a pair of wire cutters to a new sharp point that way they hold but don't need to go into stock all the way.
Besure to use the right drill bit for the tee nuts (1/4-20 is a " N " if I recall that right) that way the barrel on the tee nut will pull in just right.

Bj 


I wish you could make an illustration with paint.net which you are good at, but I think I understand the concept.

Thanks. But any other tips are welcome. It looks to me like this would be a very good way to make drawers that are strong and attractive. Anyone doing that?

Steve Bolton


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Steve, I mounted mine on a cast iron table and enlarged the holes in the table. I have shakeproof washers under the wing nuts and I ensure are done up really tight.


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Thanks Harry.

sb


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

By shake proof washers, do you mean locking washers? How much should I enlarge the holes. They were going to be 1/4 inch.

Thanks

sb


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Sb

I'm not sure what type Harry used but the norm would be the type in the pictures below..


========



S Bolton said:


> By shake proof washers, do you mean locking washers? How much should I enlarge the holes. They were going to be 1/4 inch.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> sb


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

I can even buy those kind of washer locally. Instead of a 1/4 inch hole, how big should I make it.

SB


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi SB

Just about any hardware store/HD/Lowers etc. will have that type of lock washer, they are called a internal or ext. lock washer the norm..
They come in may sizes from a #4 to 1 1/4" ID the bigger the OD the better..

====


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

No problem getting the washers. I was wondering how big to make the hole?

SB


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi SB

5/16" the norm


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Great.

sb


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Corey,

Finally found your post on installing the Oak Park Jigs in your table.

Thanks to Mike, I now have the 3 jigs.

Thanks for the photoshoot (Harry would be proud) 

James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Thanks for the photoshoot (Harry would be proud)"

HARRY IS PROUD of everything that Corey has done. Doesn't that photo-shoot justify all my efforts to get members to show HOW they do things?


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## pinkwedd (Jun 17, 2009)

This is great!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

pinkwedd said:


> This is great!


Good treads will always resurface after time...

This proves that some lurkers and new as well as old members do use the search function.

James


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