# Deck Post Router Jig



## MontrealMike (Sep 3, 2014)

I am brand new to the forum and I hope I can get some good tips on how to handle my small project. I am in the process of completing my new deck and I want to make a 7" x 7" cedar railing post cap for all my posts. Each post is a real 6" x 6" post of rough cedar. Some are 5 7/8" and 5 3/4". All 30 posts are in place and I will be cutting them to the required height with a reciprocating saw. I do not want to see a gap between the post and the cap so I was thinking of routering a pocket in each post cap so the post fits in the cap. Maybe 0.50 - 0.75" deep? I need to make a jig or jigs for the different post dimensions. I have a router and a table but very little experience with routers. I'm not sure where to begin.

Thanks,

Mike


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Mike , welcome to Router Forums, glad to have you join us, I'm positive the members of the community would be more than willing to answer any questions you have


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

MontrealMike said:


> I am brand new to the forum and I hope I can get some good tips on how to handle my small project. I am in the process of completing my new deck and I want to make a 7" x 7" cedar railing post cap for all my posts. Each post is a real 6" x 6" post of rough cedar. Some are 5 7/8" and 5 3/4". All 30 posts are in place and I will be cutting them to the required height with a reciprocating saw. I do not want to see a gap between the post and the cap so I was thinking of routering a pocket in each post cap so the post fits in the cap. Maybe 0.50 - 0.75" deep? I need to make a jig or jigs for the different post dimensions. I have a router and a table but very little experience with routers. I'm not sure where to begin.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mike


make copper caps for them...
you'll thank you years from now...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Welcome to the forum Mike. You unfortunately didn't fill out your profile so I don't know what other tools you have available or anything about your general woodworking experience. The easiest bit to use would be a pattern bit that would allow you to follow the sides of the jigs you make which would be 4 boards equal in length to the length of your post sides. The bad news is that you might need several size jigs. You could slot some holes for the screws that hold two sides down to give a little adjustment but you would only be able to adjust a little less than 1/2 the diameter of the guide bearing or it will dip into the gap at the ends of your guide boards. I wouldn't bother with going deeper than 1/4" unless you're really off with the saw.


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

Hi Mike Welcome to the foum :happy:

As for jigs, not so sure you would want to, seeing you have so many
sizes in posts. It's my understanding that jigs are to save time. You're
going to spend the time you're going to save trying to make jigs for all
those sizes. But then, I'm not one who specializes in such things.

Good Luck on your deck-I've built a couple myself


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

Welcome. Are you joining or just a one question guy?


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Mike.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

When I was working as a carpenter and later as a contractor here in the Northwest, that is a common styling for deck fittings.

If we pre-made them in the shop, we used a router table. Common sytles were either with a 45* or 30* champhor , endng up with 45* or 60* in relation to the top. If 6" posts, then we started out with 8" square stock 2-3" thick, so that was a good overhang around the posts. If On the posts, we usually dressed those up with V-Grooves.

If we did them on-site, then we did it on a table saw.

You could dress it up with copper caps. But even though we only have 52 days average that is doesn't rain here, if you do it that way and seal it, the cedar around here ages well and is fairly weather worthy. We still seal it though.

-- Sidenotes --
If you fill out your profile with the tools you have and what your skill level is, that helps other users to be able to make recommendations to you.

Reminder that if you get 10 posts in, you could upload a picture or sketch of what you are trying to explain and ask about. A picture of something goes a long way in an explanation.


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

*If you're set on wood....*

why not cut the top to the right size (left image), place on top of post and draw outline of post on top piece (middle image) then double sided tape top to bench and double sided tape four lengths of 18mm wood around the pencil line butting each one up to the next (one size fits all). Rout the centre out then remove the template wood to use on the next one. Write a reference on both post a top so you know which one goes where afterwards.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

vindaloo said:


> why not cut the top to the right size (left image), place on top of post and draw outline of post on top piece (middle image) then double sided tape top to bench and double sided tape four lengths of 18mm wood around the pencil line butting each one up to the next (one size fits all). Rout the centre out then remove the template wood to use on the next one. Write a reference on both post a top so you know which one goes where afterwards.


+1. This seems like a simple and practical solution.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Gaffboat said:


> +1. This seems like a simple and practical solution.


Plus two. Easier to cut to fit then fit to a cut.
Good approach for dry wall repairs, too.


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## MontrealMike (Sep 3, 2014)

I like this idea a lot. Here's the newbie question: What bit should I use? Do I have to worry about routering into the jig or am I setting the depth the width of the jig and the depth of my pocket?


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

MontrealMike said:


> I like this idea a lot. Here's the newbie question: What bit should I use? Do I have to worry about routering into the jig or am I setting the depth the width of the jig and the depth of my pocket?


Mike, welcome to the Forums. You use a pattern bit. it has a bearing that rides along the inside of the jig and allows you to cut out the exact size and shape of the jig.


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## MontrealMike (Sep 3, 2014)

A pattern bit? So the bearing on the bit prevents routering my jig? I take it the bearing is slightly larger in diameter than the bit itself?


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

MontrealMike said:


> A pattern bit? So the bearing on the bit prevents routering my jig? I take it the bearing is slightly larger in diameter than the bit itself?


No. The bearing is the same size as the bit.

AL


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

The bearing is exactly the same size as the bit. This allows you to cut the exact pattern/shape as your pattern or jig as the bearing rolls along the surface of the jig without cutting the jig itself.


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## MontrealMike (Sep 3, 2014)

I have one concern. My posts on the deck have square corners. The router will cut a rounded corner. How do I handle this? Should I router my post caps 1/16" larger? Do I chisel the corners square? 

How snug do you think the pocket should be to the post? It has to endure our great Canadian winters.


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

MontrealMike said:


> .....Do I chisel the corners square?


Yep, that's it, sharp chisel and run it to the corners.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Or round the corners on the posts.


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