# Finishing Veneer+Solid walnut



## Mosti (May 17, 2011)

Hello. So here I go with another question. With what is walnut veneer and solid walnut best finished? I was thinking of clear matt varnish, either sprayed or painted.

Any suggestions?????


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

Totaly depends on the intended use. Oil is nice, sprayed water based polyurethane is also nice.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

If you don't have spray facilities I'd go for oil, too


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Have you had a look at Rustin's Plastic Coating, it is nothing plasticky at all but a two pack finish that gives excellent results and can be diluted with cellulose thinners to make it go further and also to make it as a satin finish instead of high gloss, dependent on the amount of dilution, I have used it for a number of years and have found no better finish at all.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Joe,

IMO, a Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) brings out the beauty best but doesn't really protect the wood. 

As for a top coat, it depends on how it's going to be used and whether or not heat, water and alcohol will come in contact and how much its likely to get dinged.

I have and recommend Jeff Jewitt's books 
"Spray Finishing Made Simple" and "Great Wood Finishes - A Step-by-step Guide to 
Beautiful Results" seen Books and Videos

I'll defer to the experts here but if I really wanted it to look nice I'd take a test pice and try BLO (let to fully cure) topped with unwaxed shellac (to seal the oil) topped with Lacquer or Polyurethane depending upon how much abuse it'd get (bangs, water, alcohol, hot items, etc.). Other choices would include varnish and clear epoxy topcoats, depending on how you're going to use it.


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## Mosti (May 17, 2011)

Lots of ideas you have given me. Will browse the web to see what is most ideal for me. I like the idea of BLO, however i am unsure where I can buy it. Normal linseed oil is not the same thing no?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

No, Joesph.. and modern BLO isn't really boiled. It has metallic driers in it so it "dries" instead of being permanently "wet". It's still notorious for being extremely slow drying, which is why it's usually applied, allower to doak in for 5-10 minutes and then rubbed to remove all you can. Then wiped periodically for a few days until it quits "weeping" from the wood. It sure makes some woods look good, however.

Here in the US I bought it in my local Home Depot (hardware store); I have no idea how Malta compares for me to give better suggestions. Perhaps some other folks may jump in here.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Boiled Linseed Oil nowadays is based on Raw Liseed oil, that has had steam passed through it to remove some of the properties that make it everlastingly sticky, boiled oil is excellent for exterior use, but if I were looking for something for internal use and wanted to use an oil I would go for one of the proprietory finishing oils, my preference being Rustin's Danish Oil, either brushed on and with the surplus wiped offafter a few minutes or else wiped on with a soft cloth, using three or more coats depending on the density of finish required.


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## Mosti (May 17, 2011)

Hi, back with yet another question regarding this project (will post a couple of photos soon) I intend to cut some solid walnut edging, finish it with a flush trim bit and light sanding, however I am unsure how I will fix it to the veneered chipboard. I prefer not to use nails for a neater look. Will just gluing + clamping do the trick? What you guys think??


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Mosti said:


> Hi, back with yet another question regarding this project (will post a couple of photos soon) I intend to cut some solid walnut edging, finish it with a flush trim bit and light sanding, however I am unsure how I will fix it to the veneered chipboard. I prefer not to use nails for a neater look. Will just gluing + clamping do the trick? What you guys think??


Make the lipping (edging) quite thin, attach with your normal wood glue, hold in place with strips of masking tape at quite close intervals until the glue is cured.


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## Mosti (May 17, 2011)

derek willis said:


> Make the lipping (edging) quite thin, attach with your normal wood glue, hold in place with strips of masking tape at quite close intervals until the glue is cured.


ok, thanks!


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## Mosti (May 17, 2011)

Faced with another problem.....

I have used some walnut wood putty (water based), let it dry out, sanded it and sprayed the whole with a clear matt varnish as a first coat. Then I noticed that where the putty was it went whitish on drying? Cant figure out what to do? 
Now I have sanded the lot and planning to apply a 2nd coat, putty areas are still whitish, however on cleaning the project with a damp cloth the white shades diminish considerably and I thought of applying the second coat with a semi matt varnish as a glossy finish would not look that good. Any ideas??


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