# Anyone use a Festool track saw ?



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Although Makita is a great option I have my heart set on Festool , so I was hoping someone here used a Festool track saw . 
I just about bought one today and there vacuum also , as I have there 1400 series router . 
They have both track saws in stock , the 55 and the 75 . The 55 is about $150 cheaper , so that's not a concern between choosing between the two of them , but my concern is power. I think most of my cutting will be mdf ,occasionally 1" mdf at the thickest . 

On Amazon, some reviews had people complaining about the 55's power as I guess is bogs down a bit . When you put the two track saws side by side though , the 75 feels like a boat anchor as its frigging big . The 75 comes with a longer track which is nice , but the blade is a little thicker so I'm not liking that . 
But it has a 13 amp motor as opposed to a 10 amp motor in the 55 . I guess seeing as the 55 has a smaller blade they should seem similar power wise? 

One guy mentioned if you had to cut a section off a door that the 75 was the better choice.

Track Saw TS 55 REQ Plunge Cut Track Saw 561556 - Festool Power Tools

Track Saw TS 75 EQ Plunge Cut Track Saw 561438 - Festool Power Tools


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

Ok so maybe not the best review but I'll have a go.

I have quite recently bought a Festool TS 55REQ track/plungesaw.
I've been thinking of getting one for years now and could never justify the hefty pricetag, then Festool were fined 8.2 million Euros for price fixing and that now means that in Europe at least the dealers can set their own prices...

That meant there were better deals on their products, that coupled to me getting some tax back this year and not having to spend it on paying the mortgage meant I was in the market for a plungesaw.

Initially I opted for the saw and one 1400 guiderail in the kit which cost me £355, plus I got the 1080 rail, thinking that 1400mm plus 1080 = 2480mm is more than the 2440 (8' plywood sheets) that are the mainstay of my cutting needs.
Anyone who has a plungesaw will be shaking their heads now because as soon as I got the saw and read the instructions I realised that I needed more length of rail for that eight foot cut as the adjusters on the saw baseplate BOTH need to be on the rail at the start and the end of the cut.
It is possible to get a 2700mm guiderail and if I was workshop based I'd do that for rips but I'm not and 2700 is a bit long for the van.
I use my six foot level as a straight edge when I'm setting the two guiderails up together but basically they just butt together and I tighten the grubscrews on the joining bar things. Its been spot on every time I've set them up but I always check anyway.

So, I kept the 1400 and bought another 1400 rail, this time I bought the LR32 rail with the holes as I eventually plan on using that to place shelf brackets using my router. Also I kept the 1080 rail because its a nice size for cutting the bottoms off doors.

In use the saw is exemplary, first things I used it for were a few doors where the rooms had been carpeted and they just needed the bottoms trimmed, no bother at all and where the splinterguard goes to, it cuts to.

Then the next job was on some showerboard, not sure if you have used it but its plywood with a waterproof facing on it. Usually to look like marble. Its very splitty stuff and I was cutting it face up so the sawblade was lifting that hard laminated facing away from the plywood.
Again the cut was perfect on the good side and the waste side cut was almost perfect. As yet I've never needed the guard for the waste side fitted but its in the box for when I need it.

Then the next job was in a very large open plan office setting.
The place had underfloor heating laid underneath chipboard flooring and they had masses of channels where they wanted to be able to add and move electrical wiring and so on in a modular fashion.
Obviously if I don't cut deep enough I can't lift the boards and if I go too deep the underfloor heating pipes get damaged.
Very expensive if I damage those.
Again no problems doing hundreds of metres of cuts although after hitting a few nails the cheap rip blade I bought specially for the job wasn't the sharpest. Nevermind the company I was contracted to bought another one for me.

Then I've been accurately cutting 25mm thick MDF sheets up with it and its millimetre perfect.
No problems *at all* cutting 25mm MDF. 
Fast and clean and that's with the 18 tooth rip blade. Not tried it with the 48 tooth standard blade as the rip blade was the one I had left in the saw and it cut the 25mm MDF like a hot knife through butter.

I would say that it doesn't half chuck out some dust from the rear extraction port when cutting and at the moment I have a good dust mask, eventually I guess I'll be getting an extractor/shopvac to keep me and my work area clean.

If my van was broken into and it was nicked I'd buy another tomorrow and I am by no means rich. Even with the deals on the prices its still and expensive tool (when the lads on site mention how expensive it was I just tell them its all the money I should have spent on my van this year) but I wish I'd bought one sooner now.

I've not even scratched the surface of what it can do yet and there's various multifunction tables that make the saw into a sort of dimension saw setup for small shops and worksites.

Then there's the boxes they come in, if you are workshop based these might not seem that special but I'm on the move all the time and the T-Loc boxes stack well, fit in my van toolsafe perfectly and I've made a little cart so I can push the box stack around on. 
Although I only have one Festool tool, I have bought quite a few of the boxes and have pretty much all of my other powertools in them.
Expensive at first but each time I use them I save time and that adds up.

Oh and one thing, the guiderail clamps? Most of the time they are simply not needed as the guiderails are surprisingly grabby on the underside. I hardly ever use the clamps.

Down side? Expensive at first. So far that's it for me.
Its not hugely powerful but the blade diameter isn't so big that its got leverage against it.

I'll likely come back to this thread as and when I think of things to add and if there's any questions just ask and if I know the answer I'll post it up. 

Scott.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I have both the Makita and Festool tracks and they seem to be identical. I tried both with my OF2200 router with very good results. Same story on the clamps. I am considering getting one of the saws so I will try to keep an eye on this thread.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Great post, first real user post I have seen. Based on your post they must be all what they say they are.

Herb


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

Mike said:


> I have both the Makita and Festool tracks and they seem to be identical. I tried both with my OF2200 router with very good results. Same story on the clamps. I am considering getting one of the saws so I will try to keep an eye on this thread.


If I were to buy any more of the rails I would be buying the holey rails now, I heard they cost the same as the non holey rails in North America and they only cost a tenner or so more in the UK.
Looking at getting the LR32 kit but not after the 1010 router as I'm fairly sure that I can make a sub base for my plunge 26204k router (which I believe is the same as the DW611 is in the US?

I asked to see what size the base was on the Festool 1010 and the measurements were smaller than the base on my De-Walt so I reckon I can make a phenolic base up to suit.... Maybe...with luck...:wink:

One thing I thought wasn't going to be much use was the Fastex blade change thing on it. 
You pull that lever thing and then plunge the saw and it stays at the plunged depth to change the blade.

I honestly thought that I would only use that once in a blue moon but when I was cutting the chipboard flooring (22mm thick so a 21mm cut) channels I moved the rail on a length, set the saw back on the rail, plunged the saw into the end of the previous cut and as it was in the cut it stayed put while I set the other end of the rail to the other end of the new cut. I used it all the time.

Saved on all that move rail at one end and it moves the rail slightly at the other end business and saved a lot of time.
I doubt that would have worked had I been cutting 18mm chipboard flooring with underfloor heating as the cut would have been 17mm and the Fastex system wouldn't engage at that depth.

Handy all the same though.

There are more powerful saws out there and I've not used the other plunge/track saws so I can't offer up a balanced review, I chose this as there was some local dealer support and the boxes worked better for my level of mobility.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Thank you very much for the in depth review Scott 

I was thinking that the track could help me guide my Festool 1400 router too so that makes it even more appealing staying with Festool . 
Although as mentioned it seems as though other manufactures tracks may be identical? 
It is a little dismal that the Festool comes with a short guide , and there crazy expensive .
I want to build a corner computer desk someday , so I thought being able to cut long mitered cuts would be a real plus 

In the very near future I need to cut that stone board that you use in bathroom showers . Not sure if that would destroy the blade though? I cut a piece on a table saw before for a friend and the dust was unbelievable


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Carbide tipped tools will cut cement backer board but it take the life right out of them. You are better off getting a cement cutting wheel of the right speed to mount on your saw. I wouldn't want to trash a bunch of router bits on it.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike said:


> Carbide tipped tools will cut cement backer board but it take the life right out of them. You are better off getting a cement cutting wheel of the right speed to mount on your saw. I wouldn't want to trash a bunch of router bits on it.


Thanks Mike I'll look into that


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Scott I just watched a video on the blade changing system , looks like a nice addition


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Thank you very much for the in depth review Scott
> 
> I was thinking that the track could help me guide my Festool 1400 router too so that makes it even more appealing staying with Festool .
> Although as mentioned it seems as though other manufactures tracks may be identical?
> ...


I would be very leary of cutting any of that on my expensive Festool and the grit alone would shorten the life of any tool. we always scored it and broke it.

Herb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> I would be very leary of cutting any of that on my expensive Festool and the grit alone would shorten the life of any tool. we always scored it and broke it.
> 
> Herb


I was kinda wondering that myself as it looks a tad abrasive 

I was going to build a niche in the shower and was hoping for clean cuts though


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

You might try a dry cut diamond saw blade ,in another skilsaw as they are pretty cheap and you would get finer cuts.

Herb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> You might try a dry cut diamond saw blade ,in another skilsaw as they are pretty cheap and you would get finer cuts.
> 
> Herb


Well I do have a few Makita skill saws , so that's an option.
Actually I was going to make one of those vertical sheet cutting stations with the skill saw I didn't like , but seeing as I'm going to invest in a track saw , why bother .
I should have bought a track saw years ago , but tell you truth I wasn't aware there was such a thing till I joined here .
I used to use a skill saw with one of those aluminum straight edge guides that clamp down from Canadian Tire . How I hated that god dam thing


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

Mike said:


> Carbide tipped tools will cut cement backer board but it take the life right out of them. You are better off getting a cement cutting wheel of the right speed to mount on your saw. I wouldn't want to trash a bunch of router bits on it.


I have seen some Festool literature about cutting cement based boards with Festool saws but not done it with mine.

I have in the past used my big Hitachi to cut lots and lots of cement boards, the dust was unreal (I wore a dust mask with side pods) and any normal blades we used didn't last at all. Got a couple of hours of cuts from them before they were blunt.
Then the company I was working for bought a PolyCrystalline Diamond blade (PCD for short) and that one had about a 2mm diamond part on each tungsten carbide tooth. Showed up as a black line when seen from the side.

Anyway, the PCD blade managed a few weeks worth of cuts and is still good. Only has six teeth which seemed odd but it works a treat. This is the version they sell for the TS55 Same manufacturer as well.
I would have thought that the very good extraction facility on the Festool saw would make it ideal for cutting cement boards but like others I'm a bit wary of using my most expensive circular saw on nasty stuff like that. I guess if I had the shopvac to go with it I might feel a _little_ better about it.

Now I can't remember what type of cement boards it was but it was half an inch thick and rated for external use. Couldn't score it and break it like you can with that Hardiebacker stuff.

To be totally honest, after cutting up so much of that cement boards a while ago its not something I ever want to do again. To me its the next asbestos. While I get paid to cut wood, MDF, and so on I'll avoid that job and only when normal woodwork jobs run out will I be doing that stuff again. Posh dust mask or extraction as well.

Edit, I have found this video on Youtube which shows a diamond blade being used on Eternit boards.




Its worth watching as it demonstrates the difference between a normal blade and the diamond one, plus its jogged my memory and I remember that the cement boards I was cutting were Eternit boards. Not scoring that stuff with a knife and braking it off in a clean line like you can Hardiebacker boards.


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Well I do have a few Makita skill saws , so that's an option.
> Actually I was going to make one of those vertical sheet cutting stations with the skill saw I didn't like , but seeing as I'm going to invest in a track saw , why bother .
> I should have bought a track saw years ago , but tell you truth I wasn't aware there was such a thing till I joined here .
> I used to use a skill saw with one of those aluminum straight edge guides that clamp down from Canadian Tire . How I hated that god dam thing


For years I have been making up ripguides from plywood or MDF and I've managed OK with that. But this saw runs smoothly with ease down its track, doesn't deviate like the ones I made up did and for the most part I don't even have to clamp the track down like I had to with the others.
Plus they are more accurate in every way I can measure.
If I were working from a shop I would be looking at getting a multifunction table or the bigger multifunction slabs so I can make more accurate and repeatable crosscuts and mitres without measuring them all the time.

If you only think they are a posh hand held circular saw they are expensive, when you realise how much shop cutting you can do with them and how much other machines they can replace a large amount of times they are quite cheap. Plus you can connect a router up to them as well and make long straight dados and whatever.

I didn't ever think I would be such a fanboi over them but its a fair bit of kit.


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## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

I have had the Festool 55 track saw and track for some time now. I use it a lot on cutting the edges of boards that are to long to handle on the joiner, and of course ripping plywood. I have straightened the edges of 2" Maple, but I set the depth and make several passes. This is the only time I wish I had the bigger saw. A friend wanted to box in his chimney with 3/4" plywood and I used the track saw set at 45 and made the cut 8' and it came out perfectly. I am very happy with it.


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

Scott, that is really useful info. I am considering a Festool in the future, mainly to breakdown sheets of melamine. Have you had any experience with this? Melamine is notoriously difficult to get both sides chip free. The demo I saw at a wood show was pretty good, but I am wondering what the real world experience is.

I am not sure if/when I will be getting one - trying to justify the cost vs limited usage, but it definitely is a contender.

Darryl


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

darsev said:


> Scott, that is really useful info. I am considering a Festool in the future, mainly to breakdown sheets of melamine. Have you had any experience with this? Melamine is notoriously difficult to get both sides chip free. The demo I saw at a wood show was pretty good, but I am wondering what the real world experience is.
> 
> I am not sure if/when I will be getting one - trying to justify the cost vs limited usage, but it definitely is a contender.
> 
> Darryl


The only finish product I've cut has been Grant Westfield Multipanel and the cut was as good as I could wish for, zero splitting on the good side and even cutting on a 45 degree angle (the shower had a pitched roof in an attic room) was good.
That was with the standard blade which if I remember right has 48 teeth. Its quite an expensive blade though at about sixty quid and generally I use the 18 teeth blade as that only cost £22.

I thought I wouldn't use this saw _that much_ but shortly after buying it my smaller Hitachi died and I had to. Glad I did because now I realise I don't have to molycoddle it as its a quality tool and there's no point in having something that doesn't pay for its self.

Admittedly I do still have my big Hitachi and I doubt my Festool will be getting used on many roofs or concrete shuttering/formwork jobs but the more I use it the more I realise just how many jobs are a LOT simpler with them.

I really am considering getting one of those Multifunction slab things which when used in conjunction with 20mm bench dogs and a guiderail give precice crosscuts and 45 degree cuts. 
I don't make furniture but I imagine that it would be a real boon to someone who did. Think about the space needed to process an eight foot sheet.
Ten foot infeed (this allows two foot to stand in, the tablesaw, maybe two foot? then eight foot six or so outfeed as long as you pull it sideways after the cut. That's twenty foot six or so just to do an eight foot sheet. 
Do the same process with a tracksaw and its twelve to fourteen foot needed.
Working on sites I get whatever space I can and all my tools have to be very mobile, this is that tool and is currently allowing me to take some jobs off those pesky shop joiners:wink:

I like Festools multifunction tables but they aren't that big and I'm not made of money either. Maybe with next years tax rebate if I don't have to spend it on my van or the mortgage.

I've not used any of the competitions offerings as far as tracksaws but if they are even close they must be pretty good.


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## Roy Drake (Feb 10, 2014)

Scott, thanks for taking your time to write the review. Very useful.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

roy drake said:


> scott, thanks for taking your time to write the review. Very useful.


x2


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Scott I ripped some of that stone board on my contractors saw a few yeas back and I could not believe the dust! 
I'm a little leery using the 55 for cutting it but I think I'm going to anyways . Nice having most of the dust sucked out .

They only have one of each model at Windsor plywood , and they have already been using the 55 on numerous materials to see how it works . Of coursethey wanted to sell it to me at retail but I'm very anal about that type of thing and want a virgin . The 75 was still new but I'm a little concerned I'm going to find it to big and awkward to enjoy using .
So I'll plead with them tommorow and see fo they'll order me one . I mean if they sell me the one they have in stock they still have to order another one don't ya think? God I hate this town some days


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Scott I ripped some of that stone board on my contractors saw a few yeas back and I could not believe the dust!
> I'm a little leery using the 55 for cutting it but I think I'm going to anyways . Nice having most of the dust sucked out .
> 
> They only have one of each model at Windsor plywood , and they have already been using the 55 on numerous materials to see how it works . Of coursethey wanted to sell it to me at retail but I'm very anal about that type of thing and want a virgin . The 75 was still new but I'm a little concerned I'm going to find it to big and awkward to enjoy using .
> So I'll plead with them tommorow and see fo they'll order me one . I mean if they sell me the one they have in stock they still have to order another one don't ya think? God I hate this town some days


I've never tried the 75 yet. Would like to at some point but the 55 glides very well down that rail. The cut on thicker materials is better with less teeth on the blade although for very fine cuts I guess its needed.
It is possible to bog it down, especially when the cable run is very long (one site I've been on recently must have had hundred or more metres long cable runs) but take your time and the cut is very good.

Between the saw and the boxes I'm finding it a game changer.
In a workshop setting I doubt I would appreciate the boxes as much but I unload the van every morning with whatever tools I need and load them back in every night. All that time adds up and just having my homemade cart (have you seen the prices of the ones Festool sell? :surprise: ) and being able to fix the boxes together to roll them all about is going to make a huge difference. Or at least on the sites where its flat enough to roll it about...

I only made (Ok, threw together) the cart last week and its still a work in progress

I hear that the router guide for the De-Walt routers fits Festools rail if you pack the guide out with a thickness of UHMW tape and I plan on giving that a go at some point but if you have the Festool router anyway it should just go right on with Festools router guide thing.

Oh and I don't know about you but when I bought mine I just hit Google, pressed the Shopping button and then set the default to cheapest first.

I'm all for supporting local businesses but my local place couldn't get within 20% of the internet price and I'm not made of money.

Oh, and with their Service package if it gets stolen (even if its stolen from site and not locked up although there does have to be a police report) within the first three years (if I remember it right) I get another and it only costs me a hundred pounds.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Scott I went to the Festool forum and some were saying the 75 does not glide as well as the 55 , but who knows .
Seems there's guys that swear by both versions , so it's kind of a tie . I'll just get the 55 for now and maybe buy some extra track someday


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Scott I went to the Festool forum and some were saying the 75 does not glide as well as the 55 , but who knows .
> Seems there's guys that swear by both versions , so it's kind of a tie . I'll just get the 55 for now and maybe buy some extra track someday


Have a lookout for the LR32 rails as I think they are the same price in Northern America, might be the same in sunny Canada as well?
Don't forget the joining pieces (you need two) and if you haven't already seen it This PDF manual is very good.


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

demographic said:


> The only finish product I've cut has been Grant Westfield Multipanel and the cut was as good as I could wish for, zero splitting on the good side and even cutting on a 45 degree angle (the shower had a pitched roof in an attic room) was good.
> That was with the standard blade which if I remember right has 48 teeth. Its quite an expensive blade though at about sixty quid and generally I use the 18 teeth blade as that only cost £22.
> 
> I thought I wouldn't use this saw _that much_ but shortly after buying it my smaller Hitachi died and I had to. Glad I did because now I realise I don't have to molycoddle it as its a quality tool and there's no point in having something that doesn't pay for its self.
> ...


Scott,

Thanks for the comment. Plywood is harder to cut clean than normal wood but easier than melamine, but your comment is still useful. Thanks. The space issue that you mention is one of the big drivers for me leaning towards a Festool. In addition to the space that you talked about, once you have finished the job it takes up virtually no space compared to a panel saw, and most panel saws that will break down a full sheet are also 3 phase power. 

In Aus, the kit comes with a 1400mm track. By the time you buy another 1400mm track, connectors, clamps, and top splinter guard you are looking at $1300 - 1400. Expensive for a hand saw but way cheaper than a panel saw, particularly one that will clean cut melamine. 

Darryl


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

When you buy your TS55, either have the dealer swap out the 1400 rail for a 1900 rail or a LR32 of some size. Almost all will do it no problem, just pay the difference if any. When I bought mine, I got the 1900 rail so I could at least crosscut full panels and not have to worry about where the saw was on the track.

There are noted issues when joining rails, at least with the Festool connectors. Not always straight, because for some reason the ends of the tracks are not always 90° to the sides, and the connectors don't hold that well. Many, many threads and comments about them on Festool-centric forums. Best bet is to use one rail, if at all possible.

Love, love my track saw. Might be my favorite tool for the ease. I'm needing to put in a set of adjustable shelving in my closet for movies and games, and I'll be using melamine. With the track saw and the LR32 system, the hardest part is getting to the store and getting that full sheet home. The rest is going to be easy.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cochese said:


> When you buy your TS55, either have the dealer swap out the 1400 rail for a 1900 rail or a LR32 of some size. Almost all will do it no problem, just pay the difference if any. When I bought mine, I got the 1900 rail so I could at least crosscut full panels and not have to worry about where the saw was on the track.
> 
> There are noted issues when joining rails, at least with the Festool connectors. Not always straight, because for some reason the ends of the tracks are not always 90° to the sides, and the connectors don't hold that well. Many, many threads and comments about them on Festool-centric forums. Best bet is to use one rail, if at all possible.
> 
> Love, love my track saw. Might be my favorite tool for the ease. I'm needing to put in a set of adjustable shelving in my closet for movies and games, and I'll be using melamine. With the track saw and the LR32 system, the hardest part is getting to the store and getting that full sheet home. The rest is going to be easy.



Great idea , thx C .
I'll ask them today and see what they say


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cochese said:


> When you buy your TS55, either have the dealer swap out the 1400 rail for a 1900 rail or a LR32 of some size. Almost all will do it no problem, just pay the difference if any. When I bought mine, I got the 1900 rail so I could at least crosscut full panels and not have to worry about where the saw was on the track.
> 
> There are noted issues when joining rails, at least with the Festool connectors. Not always straight, because for some reason the ends of the tracks are not always 90° to the sides, and the connectors don't hold that well. Many, many threads and comments about them on Festool-centric forums. Best bet is to use one rail, if at all possible.
> 
> Love, love my track saw. Might be my favorite tool for the ease. I'm needing to put in a set of adjustable shelving in my closet for movies and games, and I'll be using melamine. With the track saw and the LR32 system, the hardest part is getting to the store and getting that full sheet home. The rest is going to be easy.


Well Scott I read your post regarding the length of the track so I ended up going buying the 75 as they talked me out of paying extra for the longer fence with the 55 . They may have been able to do it but the extra cost was almost the same as owning the 75 over the 55 , although I kinda wanted the 55  Oh well ,I'll get over it .
I bought the Festool vacuum while I was at it , this way I can use it on my router also which is quite a bonus . I really like the fact that the dust collector comes on automatically when you use there tools


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

In the UK there's currently a deal on for existing Festool owners that have signed up for the full service all inclusive deal (its free) where they give a £50 discount on the vacuums.

I don't really have a lot of money (read, None) just sitting down the back of the sofa waiting for good tool deals but I'm very tempted indeed by this with the £50 off.
Festool Mobile dust extractor CTL 26 E GB 110V CLEANTEX 583498

I think that those versions can hold the workcentre top and a good range of other accessories.

In theory I'm a labour only subcontractor but in reality that's coming to mean a lot of powertools as well, if I relied on the stuff the companies I work for had I'd never get anything done*, plus I just don't want to be working in that much dust nowadays. Its not healthy.



Plus some of the permies sometimes play that thing where they obstruct the subbies so we look bad. For some warped reason they think it makes them look better.


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## subtleaccents (Nov 5, 2011)

I have many Festool tools. I purchased the Model 75 track saw. I don't find it cumbersome at all. Well built and powerful.
I use it for 3/4" MDF and 1/2" Corian. I didn't think the size of the kerf with the 75 was that big considering how well it works.
As with any of the Festool tools, you will be spending hard earned dollars.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

subtleaccents said:


> I have many Festool tools. I purchased the Model 75 track saw. I don't find it cumbersome at all. Well built and powerful.
> I use it for 3/4" MDF and 1/2" Corian. I didn't think the size of the kerf with the 75 was that big considering how well it works.
> As with any of the Festool tools, you will be spending hard earned dollars.


Thanks for the reply . I was hoping to hear from someone who had the 75


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## Leander (Nov 8, 2013)

Well, I'll speak from a beginner's viewpoint:

I am a 68 year Festool, and I have the TS 55 tracksaw, two tracks, an OF 1400 router, and the vacuum system. I have no table saw and no router table.

As a beginner, I have been very happy with this combination. In particular, the tracksaw is very precise and makes a clean cut. I use the plunge router on the same track. I have no other router at this point. In retrospect, the OF 1400 may be a little too big to handle as a first router, and I am ready to get a midsize router table with a fixed router. Hope this helps for any beginners out there.

Be careful. The Festool line can be a potent drug!

Leander


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Leander said:


> Well, I'll speak from a beginner's viewpoint:
> 
> I am a 68 year just getting started with woodworking. I have made the unusual choice of starting with the best, and I have the TS 55 tracksaw, two tracks, an OF 1400 router, and the vacuum system. I have no table saw.
> 
> ...


Thanks Leanger and welcome to the forum . Ok I just woke up and seen you've been here since 2013 . I gotta quit posting so much lol . 

Leander , have you yried the 1400 with the track . I have to miter slots in my router table for T-channel and I was going to use MDF templates so I couldn't screw up but the guy at Wndsor Plywood said you have to start trusting there track system . I have all the parts , just haven't used it yet.

And yes it's addictive . I even bent over and spent 500 bucks on there jig saw :fie:


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> And yes it's addictive . I even bent over and spent 500 bucks on there jig saw :fie:


Did you really?

You did jump into the deep end head first.:no:


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

At first I clamped the track down on everything I was cutting but now for the most part I just trust it to stay where I put it. Saves a good bit of time that way.

About the only time I clamp the rail is of I'm doing angled cuts.

I can't see me going for their cordless drills until they make a _decent powerful_ impact screwdriver so I don't have to have another make of drill with different batteries and another charger and so on.

I'll likely be sticking with my Hitachi drill/driver and rattle gun till then.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

And yes it's addictive . I even bent over and spent 500 bucks on there jig saw 

Rick, good for you, you got the makings for a top notch shop now. You get to try it out on the cutout for the router top baseplate. Can't go wrong with those tools. Is that a corded or cordless? Been looking at those Domino's? you might need one of those to put together the next wooden router table.

Herb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> And yes it's addictive . I even bent over and spent 500 bucks on there jig saw
> 
> Rick, good for you, you got the makings for a top notch shop now. You get to try it out on the cutout for the router top baseplate. Can't go wrong with those tools. Is that a corded or cordless? Been looking at those Domino's? you might need one of those to put together the next wooden router table.
> 
> Herb


Herb I'm not a big fan of cordless so my jigsaw is corded .
I only buy cordless drills and impacts , nothing else . 

The jigsaw is kinda cool because it has a strobe light that matches the speed of the blade , so when you see it your brain perceives the blade as stationary , which makes it much easier to see . Otherwise I wouldn't have bothered . And to top it off as I started cleaning my garage I found out I actually owned a brand new makita jigsaw all this time :|


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Herb I'm not a big fan of cordless so my jigsaw is corded .
> I only buy cordless drills and impacts , nothing else .
> 
> The jigsaw is kinda cool because it has a strobe light that matches the speed of the blade , so when you see it your brain perceives the blade as stationary , which makes it much easier to see . Otherwise I wouldn't have bothered . And to top it off as I started cleaning my garage I found out I actually owned a brand new makita jigsaw all this time :|


Strobe light , OOWOW , how cool is that? what they won't think up.

That opens a whole new realm, just think a strobe light router, table saw, band saw, planer ,circular saw..... You would think the saw was turned off and it would be still running. LOL

Herb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> Strobe light , OOWOW , how cool is that? what they won't think up.
> 
> That opens a whole new realm, just think a strobe light router, table saw, band saw, planer ,circular saw..... You would think the saw was turned off and it would be still running. LOL
> 
> Herb


Well that's why they took that feature off there table saws . Too many Aussies were trying to change the blade thinking it was stopped 

J/k


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

I have just bought the Sheppach equivalent of the TS 55. Changed the blade over to a CMT with an ATB setup, and it seems to cut well enough. The cut looks very similar to the TS 55 that I saw at the Wood Show, but for 1/4 of the price. As well as changing the blade, I waxed the track, and now I can cut melamine cleanly approaching the quality I was used to back at the factory with a panel saw. lt's not quite the same quality, but when you are talking $400 versus $25,000, I'm not going to split hairs.

Darryl.


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