# Looking for ideas



## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

I have an 8" bench grinder that has a 5/8" shaft. I am hoping to save some money and convert it to a buffer and use 12-14" buffs. The ones I were hoping to use come in either a 3/4" or a 1" hole size. So I need some way to enlarge the shaft from 5/8" to the larger size. I have spend a couple hours the last few days looking on the net for anything that would work and haven't found anything. I was wondering if anyone has done something like this, and what did you use ?


Thanks....Gary


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

gjackson52 said:


> I have an 8" bench grinder that has a 5/8" shaft. I am hoping to save some money and convert it to a buffer and use 12-14" buffs. The ones I were hoping to use come in either a 3/4" or a 1" hole size. So I need some way to enlarge the shaft from 5/8" to the larger size. I have spend a couple hours the last few days looking on the net for anything that would work and haven't found anything. I was wondering if anyone has done something like this, and what did you use ?
> 
> 
> Thanks....Gary


nylon bushings....

Plastic Bushings


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

gjackson52 said:


> I have an 8" bench grinder that has a 5/8" shaft. I am hoping to save some money and convert it to a buffer and use 12-14" buffs. The ones I were hoping to use come in either a 3/4" or a 1" hole size. So I need some way to enlarge the shaft from 5/8" to the larger size. I have spend a couple hours the last few days looking on the net for anything that would work and haven't found anything. I was wondering if anyone has done something like this, and what did you use ?
> 
> 
> Thanks....Gary


First, what is the rating on the grinder. They are typically only 1/3 to 1/2 hp in an 8" model. Not much oomph for a 12-14" buffing wheel. I have a 1/2 hp set up with 8" buffs and it is about all it will handle for some operations.

For a better data point. Case cutlery used a 10 hp, 3 ph motor to drive two 20" buffs for doing knife blades. This is a commercial operation, but you get the point.

A 1 hp on a 8" wheel would be more realistic. If you want to run a 12-14" wheel, then look to a Baldor and bring your wallet.

Now, as to shaft size. You can get bushing to sleeve the grinder shaft to fit the arbor hole in the buffs. You just have to make sure that they have adequate stiffener plates and that they are locked down tight. If you don't they will rotate on the shaft.

Some of the buffing wheel suppliers will offer their wheels in whatever arbor size you need. You'll have to shop around.

Sorry to burst the bubble, Gary, but your grinder won't cut it and you will not be happy with the set-up.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> nylon bushings....
> 
> Plastic Bushings


Stick, I have a set of these bushing and they don't work all that well...too big on a one section wheel and they won't tighten down, and too narrow on a two or more section wheel..you get the point.

When I had access to a lathe I made my own to fit the shafts and wheels that I was using. Most don't have that luxury available. Wish I had a small lathe even now.


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

The grinder is a 3/4 HP, which is the same rating as the motor that Stewart McDonald sells, so I think it is strong enough to handle the 14" buffs. Stewmac advises using at least 2 buffs per side so I would need multiple bushings I guess. I was hoping there was an adapter to enlarge the shaft from 5/8" to 1" It is looking like I might have to get the shop fox arbor for $105 and the Stew Mac or Grizzley motor for $150. The Stew mac arbor is something like $385, but I don't need a production duty arbor.


Thanks !!!

Gary


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

Oh...as an aside, the biggest problem I see with 8" buffs is heat. I know they can work if I am careful. But I am not sure how easy it might be to melt nitrocellulose lacquer. 


Gary


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

A little out of my zone, Gary, but the rim speed of the larger wheels will be _faster_ than the 8". 
Is that a problem for heat?


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Gary,

With a 3/4 hp you might be able to pull it off. If you are using a soft flannel or cotton buff and don't put too much pressure on it. It will, however, slow down and cause you some frustration in my opinion. 

I guess I should have asked what you were going to use it for with this application. You mention nitrocellulose lacquer, but what are you using it on? You have to be careful as heat will burn right through this if you are not careful. Light pressure and slow going to minimize the heat build-up. 

You will want a "soft" buff as opposed to a spiral wound or sewn wheel. Looks like you have done your homework but there is more to it then what the vendors tell you.


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

I am making some electric guitar bodies. I am spraying nitrocellulose from rattle cans right now, but I plan to eventually use a water based lacquer from a air compressor. I will be using the buffer to rub out the finish after I get enough lacquer on the bodies.


Gary

P.S. To Dan....my understanding is that the larger wheels build less heat. I don't know if that is true...but I keep reading that.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Maybe the heat dissipates faster? ie more surface area?


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Ah! Guitar making! Now I understand. 

I still maintain that you will not be happy with the grinder set-up.

You will be better served with an adequate HP motor with a pulley, a proper sized shaft mounted in a couple of pillow block bearings, then a grinder. 

If you are any good at scrounging, then a 1+ hp motor (HVAC, compressor, etc.) could be found. McMaster-Carr or Grainger can supply pulleys, belts, shafts and pillow block bearings. You can probably build it for less then the cost of the grinder. Another source is Brownell's. 

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ppc/d...m_mmc=ppc-_-Itwine-_-Bing-_-Gunsmithing Tools


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Gary buy a pulley to fit the motor and another pulley on a stand attached with the motor that has a belt between them . 
Yea sounds kinda complicated lol


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> Stick, I have a set of these bushing and they don't work all that well...too big on a one section wheel and they won't tighten down, and too narrow on a two or more section wheel..you get the point.
> 
> When I had access to a lathe I made my own to fit the shafts and wheels that I was using. Most don't have that luxury available. Wish I had a small lathe even now.


you got the wrong bushings...
it's good to know if you are dealing in SAE or metric...
don't understand the won't tighten down part...
so cut the length down...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

gjackson52 said:


> P.S. To Dan....my understanding is that the larger wheels build less heat. I don't know if that is true...but I keep reading that.


True.

A full size wheel rotates at a speed dependent upon the speed of the motor shaft. As the diameter of the wheel decreases in size (due to wear) the outside of the wheel is rotating at a faster speed because the diameter has decreased.

Without going into a lot of physics, suffice it to say, that, less pressure is required to "polish" something when the wheel is at full size. The faster it rotates, (smaller diameter) the more heat is generated by the "polishing" process due to the increased speed. 

Remember...friction creates heat. The more speed the more friction.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> you got the wrong bushings...
> it's good to know if you are dealing in SAE or metric...
> don't understand the won't tighten down part...
> so cut the length down...


Nope, I don't have the wrong bushings. I have tried these exact bushings and I am not happy with the results. I run different buff depending on the applications. Generally, they take up the difference in the size between the arbor and the buff holes but they don't lock the wheel to the arbor adequately. They have a tendency to allow the arbor to slip inside of them no matter how tight you get the nut on the arbor.

They work OK (just OK) on some wheels and not so OK on others.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> Nope, I don't have the wrong bushings. I have tried these exact bushings and I am not happy with the results. I run different buff depending on the applications. Generally, they take up the difference in the size between the arbor and the buff holes but they don't lock the wheel to the arbor adequately. They have a tendency to allow the arbor to slip inside of them no matter how tight you get the nut on the arbor.
> 
> They work OK (just OK) on some wheels and not so OK on others.


Did you forget to install your flange...
they are what holds tings tight...
the bushings only change arbor size.. nothing more...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

every time I see the thread title I'm reminded that when I have an idea 4 out of 5 the voices in my head say to go for it and the 5th disavows and tries to leave...


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Gary at one time in my life I hot blued guns. I made my buffers using pillow blocks and a shaft threaded on both ends. The pillow blocks were bolted to a piece of 2X6 and using pullys a belt went down to a motor. The tension on the belt was the weight of the motor.


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

I will check out Mcmaster Carr for some parts. I got screwed by them on shipping, my fault since I ordered on line over a holiday. I bought a fiber drim, price for the drum was ok, the shipping was almost the same as the drum lol I would have saved 50% if I had check out Amazon. Who knew !


Gary

P.S. Thanks for the ideas guys ! It is appreciated.


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## Shadowrider (Apr 1, 2015)

schnewj said:


> True.
> 
> A full size wheel rotates at a speed dependent upon the speed of the motor shaft. As the diameter of the wheel decreases in size (due to wear) the outside of the wheel is rotating at a faster speed because the diameter has decreased.
> 
> ...


You actually have it backwards. The wheel is still rotating at the speed of the motor. The surface feet per minute going past the workpiece is going down as the wheel gets smaller.

RPM X DIA X Pi/12


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Misunderstanding?*



schnewj said:


> True.
> 
> A full size wheel rotates at a speed dependent upon the speed of the motor shaft. As the diameter of the wheel decreases in size (due to wear) the outside of the wheel is rotating at a faster speed because the diameter has decreased.
> 
> ...



Maybe we're talking about two different things?
If the shaft is a constant speed, the _greater_ the wheel diameter... (blade, grindstone, whatever) the _faster_ the rim speed.
Given that all other factors remain the same, _decreasing_ 'tool' diameter means a _decrease_ in rim speed but an _increase in torque_.

The only other option is if you direct drive the rim, then yes, a larger rim would slow it down.
I'm open to opposing opinions...:no:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Shadowrider said:


> You actually have it backwards. The wheel is still rotating at the speed of the motor. The surface feet per minute going past the workpiece is going down as the wheel gets smaller.
> 
> RPM X DIA X Pi/12


that's what we have been trying to tell him...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Radius x 3.14 = X feet per revolution...
Multiply that by RPM for feet per minute...
you could then convert that to MPH if you wish...
The larger the wheel the faster the surface speed at a constant RPM....

If you know the circumference and the RPM you have the answer....


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Shadowrider said:


> You actually have it backwards. The wheel is still rotating at the speed of the motor. The surface feet per minute going past the workpiece is going down as the wheel gets smaller.
> 
> RPM X DIA X Pi/12


You guys are right, I don't know what I was thinking when I wrote that. Thanks for putting the correct info out there. Dyslexia, HUA, I dunno!

Anyway I crunched some number and I'll try and clear up the misinformation

Heat generation is usually predicated on the amount of pressure and the length of time that the part is in contact with the wheel (friction). Since there is less Surface Feet Per Minute (SFPM) on a smaller size wheel vs. a larger size, then in order to obtain the same end result requires more/longer contact with a smaller diameter wheel. (in theory).

Example:

SFPM= 1/4d(iameter)*RPM

The typical grinder runs around 3500 rpm (give or take)

So:

6" wheel at 3500 = 5250 SFPM
8" = 7000 SFPM
12" = 10500 SFPM
14" = 12250 SFPM

Therefor: smaller wheel = less SFPM = longer contact to obtain =/comparable results as a larger diameter wheel. This creates longer contact and more heat build-up due to friction.

It is not that a smaller wheel runs hotter it is just that longer contact to obtain results creates more heat build-up at the point of contact. In addition, "Excessive pressure will cause the buffing wheel to slow down or actually collapse. This can also result in burn marks on the workpiece".

Again, a soft wheel dissipates the friction based heat better then a spiral wound (hard wheel).

So, my original statement about size and speed was wrong. My thought process muddled as I contemplated speed and heat generation.

Now, Gary, if you haven't seen this I came across a chart as I was validating my calculations. It doesn't give the motor RPM but it is a baseline reference. (See attachment).

In light of this I will retract my statement that the wheels were too big for your application. I buff and polish metals and occasionally plastics. For your application you want a slow speed with a loose wheel to minimize the heat (friction) build-up. A large wheel on a 3/4 will give you that condition with the correct wheel.

Again, guys thanks for getting my head straight.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> You guys are right, I don't know what I was thinking when I wrote that. Thanks for putting the correct info out there.* Dyslexia, HUA, I dunno!*


we do...
typonese and eye hand coordination...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> we do...
> typonese and eye hand coordination...


Maybe it was the blonde ale distractions:wink:


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Now that is how its done and done with style. As the boys way down south are so fond of saying "Good On Ya" Bill


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> Maybe it was the blonde ale distractions:wink:


that too...
looking forward to killing that cask and re-purposing the empty are we...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Now that is how its done and done with style. As the boys way down south are so fond of saying "Good On Ya" Bill


ditto...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> that too...
> looking forward to killing that cask and re-purposing the empty are we...


Uh-huh! I'm excited about the party, ya, that's it, I'm excited about the party.>>>


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> Uh-huh! I'm excited about the party, ya, that's it, I'm excited about the party.>>>


we're gonna need a stadium or we can just move it to Dan's place....


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> we're gonna need a stadium or we can just move it to Dan's place....


Will the cask fit on the ferry?

That's about 194 tons (or is it tonnes in Canada?) plus the weight of the cask. I wouldn't want to flip the ferry, like having too many troops stationed in Guam may flip the island.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> Will the cask fit on the ferry?
> 
> That's about 194 tons (or is it tonnes in Canada?) plus the weight of the cask. I wouldn't want to flip the ferry, like having too many troops stationed in Guam may flip the island.


dedicated ferry and we invite the captain and crew...
that way they ferry will be there if we ever decide to leave...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> dedicated ferry and we invite the captain and crew...
> that way they ferry will be there if we ever decide to leave...


Stick, your thinking of everything...designated drivers... I like it.


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

A followup question for you guys. I decided to forego using the grinder as a benchtop buffer and decided to make my own. I have been looking at threading steel pipe, and while it certainly is doable. I jst had the thought that is there any reason the buffing shaft couldn't be a 1" hardwood dowel ? I don't think the forces acting on the dowel would be all that great. I know that threading a dowel isn't particularly hard or expensive. My understanding of the pillow blocks is that they have 1 or more set screws that secure the shaft. Do you see any reason this wouldn't work ? 


Thanks....Gary


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> Stick, your thinking of everything...designated drivers... I like it.


no DD's...
the ferry doesn't move w/o us...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

gjackson52 said:


> A followup question for you guys.
> 
> 1.. I decided to forego using the grinder as a benchtop buffer and decided to make my own.
> 
> ...


1.. good plan..

2.. that will NPS thread and not the more common NPT...
real nuts and snug fitting flanges will be an issue...
pipe isn't measured in OD.. it's measured in ID....

3.. good luck w/ that...
the flex, centrifugal weight of the wheels and RPM's will trash that set up in short order...

4.. correct...

5.. many...
move to the head of the class... 
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ishing-arbors-pillow-block-sets-prod4988.aspx


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## Roy Drake (Feb 10, 2014)

This has been an INTERESTING, informative and enjoyable thread.


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## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

*Machine it*

i am not sure how much time you spend using the grinder. I also do not to offend anyone here on the forum
I had a similar problem. I found a machinist who was willing to take on the project We built a reducing bushing. It fit Over the arbor and also fit the grinding wheel center. He keyed the arbor and the bushing with a keyway. He remade the inside part to fit over the bushing so it fit snugly against the both grinding wheel and the arbor of the larger wheel. The out side piece had to be remade because the the taper of the outside angle was wrong. Total cost was less than fifty dollars. He was very concerned with balance and out of roundness in the revolution. I still have the grinder and works for me.


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

Like a lot of things I have been wanting to do lately, this has gotten complicated quickly. I realized after thinking about it a bit, that if I thread a dowel a standard nut won't work. The dowel has a lot less tpi than a metal nut. I could rent a pipe threader, but I have read several places that I can't thread a pipe past the ratcheting die that the pipe threader uses, so that won't work. All the pre-threaded pipes I have seen are only threaded a short amount...just enough for a fitting to be screwed on...makes sense, but isn't what I need. I want to get around 8" of thread on each side. So right now, I am kind of stuck. I guess a ratcheting pipe threader won't work for this...maybe a regular tap and die set might.


Gary


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

I have to be willing to ask dumb questions lol So here does. Will a v belt pulley work on a threaded rod ? I mean will the set screw hold against the threads..or will it slip ? Or is there someway to permanently attach the pulley...without welding...I don't know how to weld or have a welder anyway.


Thanks...Gary


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

like I said...

NPT = National Pipe Tapered....
this the plumbing pipe thread... length of thread is little more than the dia of the pipe...
no mater what threader you use...
it's also tapered...
National Standard Taper Pipe Threads Size NPT Chart - Engineers Edge

NPS = National Pipe Straight... thread all you want... just like all thread or a bolt...
but...
nuts and flanges then become an issue...
matching pillow blocks and sheaves for size will be difficult too... 

by time you finish it would be a lot cheaper to buy a polishing head...
see the link I posted earlier...
or skip the pipe and go with blank steel rod and use conventional taps and dies...
then sheaves, pillow blocks, nuts and flanges will be all normal stock...


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

Thanks Stick ! The only problem with the link to the arbor is that I want to be able to stack 2 or 3 buffs, I don't think they will fit on that arbor. I could be wrong, but I was thinking that the threaded part has to be long enough to accommodate the buffs. If that isn't the case, then the arbor you posted would work great.


Gary


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

gjackson52 said:


> Thanks Stick ! The only problem with the link to the arbor is that I want to be able to stack 2 or 3 buffs, I don't think they will fit on that arbor. I could be wrong, but I was thinking that the threaded part has to be long enough to accommodate the buffs. If that isn't the case, then the arbor you posted would work great.
> 
> 
> Gary


that was an example...
the come in a wide range of sizes and capabilities...

and I forgot to attach the PDF's earlier...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

you know you can get arbor extensions for motors....


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I had a 1 hp 8" Daton buffer motor that would bog down when it was pushed so I don't think the 3/4 will work.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> you know you can get arbor extensions for motors....


Gary, 

How many sections do you plan on using? Remember something, as you tighten the nut and flange the wheels will compress. You want this as it "locks" it to the arbor. As long as you can get the buff sections compressed and the nut on the arbor you are OK.

You only need three full threads on the nut engaged to gain full holding power.

A wider wheel is nice but not always a necessity. For what you are doing two sections would allow you to see the progress as you buff out the lacquer. Go wider and you run the potential risk of burning through because you can't see.

Brownell's is an excellent source for what you need. That is why both Stick and I have recommended the site. Gunsmithing operations can be just as delicate as what you are doing. Decades of experience has fostered the right tools to do the job. So, there is no need to reinvent the wheel.

Talk to some of the luthiers in your area, or on-line and find out what they use for a set-up. Someone may have a simple, cost effective arrangement that you could copy.


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

Hi Bill - I was planning on using 2-12" buffs on each side. I am not totally sure how thick they are, I am guessing around an inch each. Good point on the compression. After going back and forth, and see that the cost was going up...I just decided that the shop fox buffing assembly from Amazon was looking better all the time. A bit more than I wanted to spend, but I have it on order.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W1C8GG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I will keep Brownells in mind for future stuff. I have them bookmarked in firfox for reference. 


Gary


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

gjackson52 said:


> Hi Bill - I was planning on using 2-12" buffs on each side. I am not totally sure how thick they are, I am guessing around an inch each. Good point on the compression. After going back and forth, and see that the cost was going up...I just decided that the shop fox buffing assembly from Amazon was looking better all the time. A bit more than I wanted to spend, but I have it on order.
> 
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005W1C8GG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
> ...


You still have to find and hook up a motor. Also, it is only rated for a 10" wheel. Step back and think it through, Gary. You may not be happy with this arrangement.

Although rated for a 10" wheel you may be able to get a larger one on it, but, remember there is always a trade-off involved.


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

I have seen a few writeups from guitar makers that are using 12" wheels with no problems. I know that I need to get a motor. I am seeing a bunch of "new" 1HP 1725 rpm motors on ebay that aren't too badly priced. So, I will mostly likely go that route. It is my understanding that the StewMac assembly is actually made by Shop Fox and just badged as StewMac. 


Gary


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

gjackson52 said:


> I have seen a few writeups from guitar makers that are using 12" wheels with no problems. I know that I need to get a motor. I am seeing a bunch of "new" 1HP 1725 rpm motors on ebay that aren't too badly priced. So, I will mostly likely go that route. It is my understanding that the StewMac assembly is actually made by Shop Fox and just badged as StewMac.
> 
> 
> Gary


Sounds like you're getting there...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

arbors...

Bright Works, Inc. Polishing & Buffing Supplies & Equipment, extended motor shaft arbors


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

Thanks for the link, Stick. One of the things that has made this a bit more difficult is the desire to use either a 3/4" arbor size or a 1". I decided to go with 3/4 as I think it will be easier to find a suitable motor. But even 3/4" complicates things a lot. It seems like most things are either 1/2" or 5/8"


Gary


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Two things, Gary...(I'm baaack):
1) if you use the ratio-ed pulley set up rather than a direct drive, as the rim speed is decreased, _the torque is increased._
If you're running it directly off the motor shaft, or at the same pulley ratio, than I don't think you're going to be able to effectively drive a 12" wheel(?).
2) I can't remember what the second thing was...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Two things, Gary...(I'm baaack):
> 
> 2) I can't remember what the second thing was...


UT-oh...
ummmmmmm..... welcome back Dan...

(2)... don't feel bad.. neither can anybody else....


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> UT-oh...
> ummmmmmm..... welcome back Dan...
> 
> (2)... don't feel bad.. neither can anybody else....


Memory is always the second thing to go! Time to start a club?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> Memory is always the second thing to go! Time to start a club?


will there be meetings???


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## Shadowrider (Apr 1, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> will there be meetings???



That's gotta be in my top 2 movie lines! Loved that movie!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

well if there are..
count me out...
I'll never remember to make them....
*AND!!!!*
.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

On Meeting Length:

I propose a new rule: meetings can not last longer than my laptop battery or my bladder.

On Committees:

There’s a reason they’re called committees. When you’re on one for too long, you start to think about committing something else- suicide, murder, yourself into a mental institute.

On What You Learn in Meetings:

I learn a lot in meetings. For instance, did you know that by bending a paper clip once, you can make a pretty cool ‘S’?


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> will there be meetings???


I can't remember!

However, if there are, I nominate Rick (Rainman1) for chairman. If elected, he can call the first meeting right after he insulates.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> I can't remember!
> 
> However, if there are, I nominate Rick (Rainman1) for chairman. If elected, he can call the first meeting right after he insulates.


premium plan...
2nd the motion...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

...will there be 'e-refreshments' ?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> ...will there be 'e-refreshments' ?


yes...
since it's your stash we'll be using...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

OK; who's monkeying with the controls?
When I click on pg 3 it just goes back to the top of pg 2...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> OK; who's monkeying with the controls?
> When I click on pg 3 it just goes back to the top of pg 2...


'cause there's only 2 pages....


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

If Rick is going to have meetings after completing insulation then they won't start until hell freezes over for the third or fourth time.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Shop guy said:


> If Rick is going to have meetings after completing insulation then they won't start until hell freezes over for the third or fourth time.


exactly....


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

So...my beer cellar is safe then?

Stick; that can't be right. I posted a comment that didn't show up, and the image shows three pages.
If _this_ comment doesn't show up than my paranoia is vindicated!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> So...my beer cellar is safe then?
> 
> Stick; that can't be right. I posted a comment that didn't show up, and the image shows three pages.
> If _this_ comment doesn't show up than my paranoia is vindicated!


it showed but trust us, your paranoia is vindicated...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

....................getting back to Gary's project.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> So...my beer cellar is safe then?


Don't you mean the crawlspace? Or was that a misdirection to protect the reserves?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> Don't you mean the crawlspace? Or was that a misdirection to protect the reserves?


misdirection...
he does that a lot...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey! Beer cellar sounds classier (Lord knows we are a classy bunch...)


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Hey! Beer cellar sounds classier (Lord knows we are a classy bunch...)


all this time it's been the no class/have class thing and now you are trying to tell us that's changed...

where's my score card???....


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> all this time it's been the no class/have class thing and now you are trying to tell us that's changed...
> 
> where's my score card???....


There's a score card? What is the criteria, how is it determined, and who is making the final decisions? Wait a minute, I need to see the metrics. Without the goals and schedule I'm lost. Will someone send me a meeting notice so we can discuss when we should meet to set a date for the rules committee meeting.

Aaaagh! I thought this all ended for me when they shut down the space program, now here I am again! I might as well go back to work if this is how I will have to spend my leisure time.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> There's a score card? What is the criteria, how is it determined, and who is making the final decisions? Wait a minute, I need to see the metrics. Without the goals and schedule I'm lost. Will someone send me a meeting notice so we can discuss when we should meet to set a date for the rules committee meeting.
> 
> Aaaagh! I thought this all ended for me when they shut down the space program, now here I am again! I might as well go back to work if this is how I will have to spend my leisure time.


should I have said... dance card???....


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> should I have said... dance card???....


Well, I'd rather dance then keep score. Which is it, dance or score? I feel Exploding Head Syndrome coming on...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> 1.. There's a score card?
> 2.. What is the criteria, how is it determined, and who is making the final decisions?
> 3.. Wait a minute, I need to see the metrics.
> 4.. Without the goals and schedule I'm lost.
> ...


1.. has been for some time...
2.. since when there need be???...
FYI... everybody is a critic...
anybody...
3.. We are SAE here...
4.. nothing unusual there... but wouldn't bewildered be more descriptive???...
5.. not till hell has frozen over for the 5th time or so...

6.. so you wrere the reason for that TV show... cool....
*DANGER WILL (BILL) ROBINSON!!!!*
7.. don't forget to grow eyes in the back of your head....


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> Well, I'd rather dance then keep score. Which is it, dance or score? I feel Exploding Head Syndrome coming on...


you clean up the mess...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Gary; I'm glad you're enjoying the banter 'cause this thread has been well and truly hijacked... 
Router Forums - View Single Post - Looking for ideas


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