# Changing a Miter Saw Blade



## sepulchre (Oct 9, 2010)

Hello,

I borrowed my son's miter saw and bought a new blade for it. I'm sure the one on it is the original 40 tooth so I got a 60 tooth blade as I want to do some finer work, not just framing.

It's a Delta 10" model 36-070 and I figured there would be a manual online. The only one I could find is in French but I could see from the pictures what I needed to do. However, when I got the cover off and tried to loosen the old blade it is Extremely tight. I don't want to break the bolt that holds it on so here's my question: does anyone know if the normal way these are attached is with a normal thread or is it a reversed thread? I know they all have differences but I'd bet this is something they have in common.

Thx,
Ken


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

My miter saws are all reverse thread. Not sure about yours or others than the brands I own.
Surely someone will chime in with an answer relevant to Delta.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ken

Get your air impact out, put the right socket on it and tap the button, it will come right off. they are left hand threads the norm..if the blade is on the left side of the machine..

Don't forget the *Golden Rule*, Lefty Lucie, Righty Tighty but in this case it's the other way around, Righty Lucie ...


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sepulchre said:


> Hello,
> 
> I borrowed my son's miter saw and bought a new blade for it. I'm sure the one on it is the original 40 tooth so I got a 60 tooth blade as I want to do some finer work, not just framing.
> 
> ...


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## sepulchre (Oct 9, 2010)

Yes, it's a reverse thread (I spoke with a few tool repair shops). Unfortunately, I don't have an impact wrench. Maybe one of my neighbors does.

Thanks for the info.


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## DGK (Oct 8, 2010)

Remove the blade bolt clockwise.

oops...I was a little late


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ken

It's one of the tools you want to have in the shop , they can be used for many jobs in the shop.. ,.like driving in big lag screws..

1/2" Electric Impact Wrench

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sepulchre said:


> Yes, it's a reverse thread (I spoke with a few tool repair shops). Unfortunately, I don't have an impact wrench. Maybe one of my neighbors does.
> 
> Thanks for the info.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hi Ken,
There is usually a pin to press to lock the arbor from turning. Take the arbor bolt off with either a wrench or a 5mm allen wrench (depends on bolt to hold blade on). Remove outer flange then blade & reverse process. You shouldn't need an impact. 

Look at teeth direction when replacing blade but usually the label of blade is on the bolt side so you should be able to read it. The teeth should be down & towards the fence when rotating.


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## sepulchre (Oct 9, 2010)

Thanks everyone. Can't get an impact wrench . . . yet. Next toy is a table saw. Sears has a nice one (very solid fence, laser, nice stand) on for about $230. So the wrench will have to wait.

As a side note: My wife's being very kind about all this. She started by clearing out our shed. It was her father's workshop and she wants to see it used again. She went out yesterday and bought me a shoplight, and clamp light and materials to insulate my little shop. While at Sears we saw the table saws and while I was looking at the cheap stuff she pointed out a much nicer model saying, "Next payday." So adding more tools will take awhile. That's okay; I have friendly neighbors.


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## LexB (Apr 12, 2010)

sepulchre said:


> Thanks everyone. Can't get an impact wrench . . . yet. Next toy is a table saw. Sears has a nice one (very solid fence, laser, nice stand) on for about $230. So the wrench will have to wait.
> 
> As a side note: My wife's being very kind about all this. She started by clearing out our shed. It was her father's workshop and she wants to see it used again. She went out yesterday and bought me a shoplight, and clamp light and materials to insulate my little shop. While at Sears we saw the table saws and while I was looking at the cheap stuff she pointed out a much nicer model saying, "Next payday." So adding more tools will take awhile. That's okay; I have friendly neighbors.


You can get a manual impact driver pretty cheap. It uses impact sockets, but you whack it with a hammer. Just buy the size impact socket that you need and you're still under $20 USD for the whole shebang. I used one back when I was in high school (and too poor to afford anything else) to remove cylinder head bolts from my car, etc. Just keep your eye on the ball so that you don't miss and hit your hand. Been there, done that.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

*leverage*

A pipe slipped over the end of a (properly fitting) regular wrench will work, too, adding the leverage needed to break the bolt free.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ralph

Most socket sets come with a breaker bar no need to get the pipes out the norm..

It cracks me up when I see some do that with some pipe :nono: use the right tool for the job..after all you are working on a item that wants to turn very easy and the impact wrench will do the job easy and the right way..:yes4:.. 

It makes me recall seeing a guy jumping on a 6ft pipe trying to get a lug nut free on his wheel, I said look at the stud, it has "L" on it ,see the end of the stud, it's left hand threads DS..

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Ralph Barker said:


> A pipe slipped over the end of a (properly fitting) regular wrench will work, too, adding the leverage needed to break the bolt free.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

Just a note about the hammer type impact tool, you must take care ,don't forget what may behind the nut/bolt , it takes a good hit with the hammer to get the cam inside the driver to move, you don't want to damage the shim or bearing that's in place ...the norm.it's a great tool but not in this case. 

I have 3 sets of them and I use them on 1/4" drive all the way up to 3/4" socket drive..with the 10 lb. hammer..  when the 1" drive impact will not break them free..

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LexB said:


> You can get a manual impact driver pretty cheap. It uses impact sockets, but you whack it with a hammer. Just buy the size impact socket that you need and you're still under $20 USD for the whole shebang. I used one back when I was in high school (and too poor to afford anything else) to remove cylinder head bolts from my car, etc. Just keep your eye on the ball so that you don't miss and hit your hand. Been there, done that.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Bob....you saying that reminded me of a bloke I saw years ago trying to drill a piece of steel with a blunt bit in the drill press/.....only thing was he had "the pipe" over the side lever with the wife hanging on to that, feet off the ground, and he hanging on to the steel with the multi grips.Wish I had the camera..............AL


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## sepulchre (Oct 9, 2010)

al robins said:


> bob....you saying that reminded me of a bloke i saw years ago trying to drill a piece of steel with a blunt bit in the drill press/.....only thing was he had "the pipe" over the side lever with the wife hanging on to that, feet off the ground, and he hanging on to the steel with the multi grips.wish i had the camera..............al


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

*The Lever*



bobj3 said:


> Hi Ralph
> 
> Most socket sets come with a breaker bar no need to get the pipes out the norm..
> 
> ...


Bob, when Archimedes and I invented the lever, we almost didn't publish our findings out of fear of misuse. There's always going to be someone who applies the tool to the wrong side of the problem. 

While I agree that choosing the "right tool" is a good plan, "right" is often subjective.


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## sepulchre (Oct 9, 2010)

Just so you understand, I have a very cheap set of sockets. When I tried one on the miter saw, the proper direction mind you, it split in two places. So I'm writing to Santa about that.
Also, there is no lock to keep the blade from turning - you have to use an allen wrench on the other end of the motor to hold it still. I have what we used to call a "Smitty", a bunch of them together as one tool. That size is now twisted. It's not ruined, but I don't think a cheater bar would work even if I was inclined to use one. But a proper impact wrench should do the trick. I'm sure my neighbor has one, if I can catch him at home.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

On my Delta I put the Allen 3/8 " long hex key in place (in the end of the motor) lock the head down in place with the lock tab on the backside of the saw and get a crescent wrench out, turn it to the right and the nut will come right off, I have use a rubber hammer a time or two to break it free..works every time.. 

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sepulchre said:


> Just so you understand, I have a very cheap set of sockets. When I tried one on the miter saw, the proper direction mind you, it split in two places. So I'm writing to Santa about that.
> Also, there is no lock to keep the blade from turning - you have to use an allen wrench on the other end of the motor to hold it still. I have what we used to call a "Smitty", a bunch of them together as one tool. That size is now twisted. It's not ruined, but I don't think a cheater bar would work even if I was inclined to use one. But a proper impact wrench should do the trick. I'm sure my neighbor has one, if I can catch him at home.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ralph

But Archimedes didn't have any air tools , he only had the lever to do the job..


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Ralph Barker said:


> Bob, when Archimedes and I invented the lever, we almost didn't publish our findings out of fear of misuse. There's always going to be someone who applies the tool to the wrong side of the problem.
> 
> While I agree that choosing the "right tool" is a good plan, "right" is often subjective.


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## sepulchre (Oct 9, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ken
> 
> On my Delta I put the Allen 3/8 " long hex key in place (in the end of the motor) lock the head down in place with the lock tab on the backside of the saw and get a crescent wrench out, turn it to the right and the nut will come right off, I have use a rubber hammer a time or two to break it free..works every time..
> 
> ==========


That worked! Thank you So much!

Ken


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

Your Welcome 


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sepulchre said:


> That worked! Thank you So much!
> 
> Ken


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

When I changed the blade on my mitre saw, I found the most difficult part was replacing the saw guard mechanism.

Mine now works like the guard on a circular saw.....LOL


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

In regards to the "Impact Drivers" Don't get them from HF. I had two of them break in one day. The end snapped off on one, and the other froze up! Nut wasn't on all that tight. I was just to lazy to go out to the barn and get my 14" breaker bar! Which worked!


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