# Which one to choose?



## TedG (Jan 25, 2012)

I am looking at building or buying a router table and I have a few questions.

A) I plan on using a dedicated router for the table, should I look at a fixed base and a lift kit or a plunge router? What are the advantages to either?

B) How big of a router should I buy and what brand is your suggestion and why?

C) If I buy a router table, any suggestions as to which one to look at? OR do you have any decent plans that does not take up half my work shop?

I am not going to say that the cost is no object, I want to buy the best I can get and not break the bank.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

G’day 

Welcome to the router forum.

Thank you for joining us, Ted.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Welcome Ted.

What kind of work are you planning to do with the table, light, medium, heavy?
How much room do you have in your shop?
Would you like to have storage built into a table?
Do you need it to be portable so you can move it around the shop, or take it with you to a job site?

If you answer these questions I'm sure you'll get answers.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

A note on fixed or plunge.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ted

For me it's best to have both, one for the router table and one for hand jobs or to say one router motor that can be used for both jobs, the DeWalt 621/625 are fine routers but you only get one motor and one base...I do push the new Craftsman because all you need is a good 2 1/2HP router to do most jobs on the table and hand jobs..and the price is right..  and it comes with all the extra items,like lights,lift kit built in that can be used in the router table, plus so much more.. 

I should note you can use the plunge base or the standard base in your router table they both come with the lift kit built in.. plus if you like to use the "D" handle base you can get one of them also from Sears, at one time they came with all 3 bases and as a kit,I will post a link and you can still get it at a great price..

And yes I do have 4 of the kits  plus 3 of the 2 1/2HP routers combo kits as well, when I see a great deal I get it ,can't have to many routers 

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

Craftsman Professional 28084 12.5 amp Corded Fixed/Plunge D-Handle Combination Router : Sears Outlet

From PA,for 60.oo bucks for the kit,new floor model.
PITTSBURGH
1008 Ross Park Mall Dr
Pittsburgh, PA 15237-3803


Good luck with your quest..

====










TedG said:


> I am looking at building or buying a router table and I have a few questions.
> 
> A) I plan on using a dedicated router for the table, should I look at a fixed base and a lift kit or a plunge router? What are the advantages to either?
> 
> ...


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## TedG (Jan 25, 2012)

Thank you all for the welcome. My shop is kind of small, basicly a 12 x 24 ~tool~ shed that is now my workshop. Thus I need it to be portable in the sense that I need to move it out of my way when I work with my other tools...so something about 18" to 19" deep would be the max by maybe 24 to 30" long, with storage underneith for my routers, bits, etc. The unit would be on casters.

As far as how heavy of usage it will get is probably light to moderate. This is just a hobby for me as I am preparing for the day when I can stay home and work at something I like instead of going to work because I have to. I figure I have a couple of years to get my shop set up before I can spend most of my days there. Last year I made 3 quilt racks for my wife's family (picture attached). Making the dowels on a Craftmans special that my kids got me years ago for Christmas made it pretty clear that I need to do a major up-grade if I want to keep my sanity.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Hi Ted,
The Craftsman kit Bob mentions would be a good choice, the people using that router have good things to say about it. 
Here is a link for a good router table package that won't cost you an arm and leg.
T10432 Router Table with Stand
You can add a shelf for some storage space, maybe drawers under the shelf, shop build caster system, the router Bob mentioned and have a real good set up to do some more of those good looking quilt racks.
Later you might want to build a router cabinet, use this top and fence, and buy another tool to put on the stand.
Hope this helps,
Mike


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Welcome Ted, I have a table for sale (really need the space) send me a private message, I can send Ya pics or there is a thred somewhere in the for sale with a few pics posted ....I really need to sell it as my shop is getting very cramped......I will make Ya a good deal


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## TedG (Jan 25, 2012)

Ok, If I am going to dedicate a router to a table, should I consider a Shaper instead? What do the router experts say? Would the shaper be a better tool?


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

"should I consider a Shaper instead? "
All day or very frequent doors, drawers and windows?
Then a shaper is called for.


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## TedG (Jan 25, 2012)

So are you saying a shaper more for an ~industrial~ setting and is better if there will be heavy usage?


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Hi Ted,

Welcome to the Router Forums. Thanks for joining up and getting to know us some. 

Use of the word 'shaper' in this thread caught my attention and prodded me into doing a 'modest' amount of research on the topic of 'woodworking shapers'. The general impression I got was they are in fact an 'industrial strength' approach to doing a high volume of 'contouring cuts' that could alternatively be done on router table. Casual reading of some sites that sell them suggests they carry price tags
that are a lot more industrial strength to. A single cutting head for a shaper that only carves one specific contour could easily cost more than some of us spend on a router, but from what I read on wikipedia about shapers, it could chew through thousands of feet of board stock a day and be asking for more with a smile....

Good luck with your quest on finding the set up that meets 'your needs'.



TedG said:


> So are you saying a shaper more for an ~industrial~ setting and is better if there will be heavy usage?


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

TedG said:


> Ok, If I am going to dedicate a router to a table, should I consider a Shaper instead? What do the router experts say? Would the shaper be a better tool?


Ted I have a shaper, a table with a 3 1/4 hp Porter cable router, a table wit a Porter Cable 890 2 /14 hp router, and bench top tables I use with Porter Cable and Bosch laminate trimmers.

The Shaper is in the far corner of the shop, the 3 1/4 hp Porter cable is parked right next to it, I use the laminate trimmers the most and PC 890 when I need more power.

Unless you are going to build a lot of furniture or make trim for a living you sure don't need a shaper. Just put a good router table package together, you'll be happier.

Mike


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## dicey (Dec 27, 2011)

hey how much you wanting for the table saw and do you still have that router table? I just got some money now and need both. get back to me okay? thanks


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## TedG (Jan 25, 2012)

Mike, thanks for the input.. it is exactly what I was looking for, just simple explaination for a simple fella as to why to use either. I have been leaning towards a good table with a good router, but then I saw a shaper for a little less $. Again...thank you!


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Ted,
As bill pointed out the price tag for shaper cutters is another consideration, they ain't cheap!.


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## TedG (Jan 25, 2012)

Ok, now what size router sould be used. I am leaning towards a Makita that I think is 3.5HP...good choice? I have a few PC tools (belt sander, dovetail jig, sawsall) other than the sawsall, I am not that impressed with the other items. There newer tools just do not to seem the have the quality of older ones. I am fortunate to have both big box stores near me, I looked at the PC tools there and I was turned off PC. I do not know anything about the Triton(?) and I don't have any experience with a Freud(?). Suggestions?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

TedG said:


> Ok, now what size router sould be used. I am leaning towards a Makita that I think is 3.5HP...good choice? I have a few PC tools (belt sander, dovetail jig, sawsall) other than the sawsall, I am not that impressed with the other items. There newer tools just do not to seem the have the quality of older ones. I am fortunate to have both big box stores near me, I looked at the PC tools there and I was turned off PC. I do not know anything about the Triton(?) and I don't have any experience with a Freud(?). Suggestions?


Hi Ted - you don't need a huge router for the vast majority of table work but it does make things a lot nicer If you can get a good deal on a 3.5 HP Makita go for it. I have a Freud and I like it but they are going for about $350 now. Cheapest large router I know of is the Hitachi M12V's going for about $150-225. Most of those I have heard of are in lifts such as the Router Raizer. Triton has a good reputation and I have their SCMS and the small JOF001 router which I am happy with, but support for Triton in North America has been taken over by KREG and they don't seem to be terribly enthusiastic about it. I think Milwaukees' big 5625 has above table adjustments but I have no information on that one. There are quite a few 2 +/- HP routers that offer above table adjustments now including Craftsman and Porter Cable.
Happy shopping


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## rpludwig (Nov 22, 2011)

Welcome Ted!

Plenty of good options out there. For light to moderate use on a budget, I opted for the Grizzley Presidents Special table (now $129 w/fence, insert, t-tracks, guard and legs)...a great value IMO. For the router, I went for the DW618 combo, includes plunge and fixed base, 2 1/4 hp, so entire pkg was about $350 bucks shipped and serves my moderate use needs quite well...just my 2 cents...


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## TedG (Jan 25, 2012)

Thanks for all the great input guys, now my next question. Since I am not going to remove the router from the table, (at least I don't plan to), should I look at a plunge router or fixed base? Does a plunge router have the ability to be raised and lowered from above with out the need of a costly lifter kit?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Ted, reading magazines will do nothing but confuse you. It is important to remember they are paid to tell you how great products are. You have received suggestions from a well respected published author and a forum member who excells at jig design; information which is worth paying attention to. You have not yet discovered how useful a router really is. You will find that your router is used on most projects and greatly simplifies the process. If you are like most forum members you will end up with more than one router anyways. The Craftsman combo kits are the least expensive option to start at about $100. A combo kit will give you a fixed base for table mounting and a plunge base for free hand work; both are needed. These routers are home owner grade and provide a lot of bang for your buck. You can move up to an industrial grade router like the Bosch 1617EVSPK which Lowes is selling for $179. This will far outlast the Craftsman but costs more up front; some people prefer to pay less and replace down the road. Either way is fine. These choices are the best deals at this time. Most other combo kits will run around $225. Your best option is to get your hands on the routers and check out the feel of the action of the plunge base and try the controls. All name brand routers are similar in function but they do have a different feel to them. Go with what you are most comfortable with.
There are two schools of thought on router tables, the "Keep it simple" methods and the "Whistles and bells" methods. You will find more information on them on the forums. To get started I feel your best option is to get a simple table with a fence, mounting plate and dust collection. You can build the economy table top shown in a sticky thread in this section and clamp it to some saw horses or build a box for it to sit on. The Grizzly T10432 table is the least expensive option for purchase at this time. It has a nice sized work area and a metal stand to keep the cost down. Changing bits is quick and easy by popping the router out of the table and then replacing it. A lift is one of the "Whistles and bells" options that many people like. There really is no need for one with most combo kits. You do not need to shell out big money to get great results.


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## TedG (Jan 25, 2012)

Mike, thanks for your input. If my questions have insulated anyone, I apologize, that was not my intent. I just am looking for straight answers from more experienced router folks that I. I have 4 routers, two of them are Bosch, one is a Ryobi (which I have no idea why I got that one other than price) and a Dewalt Laminate trimmer. Years ago for Christmas my kids bought me a cheap Craftsman Router table with a 2HP Craftsman router on it. It was ok for whan I needed to use it, but I hated to work with it so I avoided it like the plague. The router finally died this past summer and now I can up grade with out my kids getting PO'd. The table was atrocious...I fought with it everytime I used it. That is why I really don't want to go with another table top style unit. To your point, I am not an accomplished router guy, I am just a hobbiest that likes to make small boards out of big ones. But I prefer to do so with quality workmanship and with tools that I enjoy working with. I just hate to buy tools that I think are good because of the name on them, just to find out that even though the names were at one time good, they have since tanked and offer crap now. It is not so much the wasted money spent, but more importantly, the time wasted when I could be having fun with tools that I enjoy. Again, if I insulted anyone I apologize.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Ted, you didn't insult or offend anyone; I was making the point that you get good expert advice here with no ax to grind or promtional fees paid.

Build a small box with the Ryobi router directly mounted inside it and leave a round over bit set up in it. This saves set up time and the round over will be used on many projects.


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## thadius856 (Dec 26, 2011)

I plan to make a full kitchen and library wall of drawers and doors, plus some stain-grade moulding. A 3.25hp beasty wasn't a very hard decision since they don't cost a whole lot more. If I had found a good deal on a shaper, I would have greatly considered it.

There are indeed several plunge routers that have (above table) lift capabilities. I know the big Milwaukee does, and I think the Festool does as well. The other ones escape me at the moment. To hel pyou decide if you need lift functionality or not, watch the first Router Workshop video... he doesn't use a lift, and it shows very well what is required to change a bit without a lift.

Don't forget the Classifieds forum here or Craigslist if you're in a populated area. It's not hard to find a great deal on a nice router, table, lift kit, etc. with little wear on it where somebody thought they needed more bells and whistles than they really did (or use it more often than they do) and they just need to recoup some of the investment (or space).


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## TedG (Jan 25, 2012)

That is a great idea Mike!!! Thanks! Your sage advise is exactly why I jointed this forum, to the get the best information from those who know and, like myself, wish to help others. Reading about different tools / manufactures is, in my opinion, just gathering some preliminary information before I go and do my own research / testing. Like I said earlier, if I can avoid wasting time by listening to those more experienced, then I am all for educating myself. Looking forward learning alot from the Router Forum.


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## TedG (Jan 25, 2012)

Thadius, nice name, looks kinda familiar... I have been watching Craigslist for a few months now, there is a big PC for sale with some extras, but it seems pretty expensive for a used item. 

Did not know the Forum had a classifed list...think I wil go check it out.


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