# Jointing Bits



## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I sold my old 4" jointer to make more room in the garage so now I plan to do most of my jointing on the router table. I searched some of the old posts on here about router jointing but the problem is that most of the links to the suggested bits are dead.
Can you tell me what kind of bits I should be using for this and perhaps give me some working links? What is the maximum bit length you can buy/use?
TIA.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

3" is the norm but you can find the 4" long also, I use the site below to get the long ones from ...


http://stores.ebay.com/Super-Carbide-Tools_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ0QQftidZ2QQtZkm

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CanuckGal said:


> I sold my old 4" jointer to make more room in the garage so now I plan to do most of my jointing on the router table. I searched some of the old posts on here about router jointing but the problem is that most of the links to the suggested bits are dead.
> Can you tell me what kind of bits I should be using for this and perhaps give me some working links? What is the maximum bit length you can buy/use?
> TIA.


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Thought your name was Deb. 
OK TIA
Good question, I'm curious also.
What router & what's it's Horse Power rating & collet size (hopefully 1/2")?
The guru's of the site will need that info.
I'd add one more ? Speed (RPM) if a variable speed?
Well one more ? would a 3/4" dia. bit be better than a 1/2" dia. bit? (both 1" cut length)
YWIA


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

LOL @TIA.
I have a Mastercraft Maximum model 54-6810-8 router. 
Motor: 120V, 60Hz, 11A, 2 HP 
No-load speed: 11,000 - 25,000RPM, soft start 
Collet diameter: ¼" and ½" 

So basically just use a straight bit. I will have to get some of the longer ones. Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dave

No one that I know about makes a LONG 3/4" diam. bit,the only ones I know about are the 3/8" and the 1/2" ones, I have the 2 1/2",3", 4" long ones and they work very well,,,then smaller diam. works the best because I can spin it at high speed and not take off a ton on wood in one pass and it comes out cleaner with the 3/8" bit BUT sometimes it's best to use the 1/2" shank because of the load it puts on the bit..

I have never bent or broke one but I don't want to use my roll of TP on the side of the router table...if I did. 

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Bogydave said:


> Thought your name was Deb.
> OK TIA
> Good question, I'm curious also.
> What router & what's it's Horse Power rating & collet size (hopefully 1/2")?
> ...


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

CanuckGal said:


> I sold my old 4" jointer to make more room in the garage so now I plan to do most of my jointing on the router table. I searched some of the old posts on here about router jointing but the problem is that most of the links to the suggested bits are dead.
> Can you tell me what kind of bits I should be using for this and perhaps give me some working links? What is the maximum bit length you can buy/use?
> TIA.


A bottom bearing flush trim bit is slightly flaster to set up because you can just lay a straight edge accross the outfeed table + bearing and not worry about the orientation of the cutting edge.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Drew

That's true but if you use the shank of the router bit it's just as quick and easy.. 

All that's needed is to raise the bit up and then just drop it down..after and your set to run..this is true if you use the upcut or downcut carb.bit that will always be a nice clean pass 

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Drew Eckhardt said:


> A bottom bearing flush trim bit is slightly flaster to set up because you can just lay a straight edge accross the outfeed table + bearing and not worry about the orientation of the cutting edge.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

So the up/down cut bits are better to use then the straight or flush trim bits?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

Yes about 10 times better,,, it cuts on a angle/skew angle and not a chop/rip cut like many router bits do.. 

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_solid.html
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_solid_sets.html

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CanuckGal said:


> So the up/down cut bits are better to use then the straight or flush trim bits?


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Bob. I really need to check in here first before I buy any more bits.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome Deb

That's why we are hear  just to help a little bit now and then 



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CanuckGal said:


> Thanks Bob. I really need to check in here first before I buy any more bits.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

> help a little "bit".


 Funny stuff. You guys crack me up LOL.


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

> 3" is the norm but you can find the 4" long also, I use the site below to get the long ones from ...


and



> Yes about 10 times better,,, it cuts on a angle/skew angle and not a chop/rip cut like many router bits do..
> 
> http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops.../bt_solid.html
> http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...olid_sets.html


I am confused. None of the spiral bits listed go past 1.5" in length.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI crquack

I didn't say I had a 4" long spiral bit  but I do have the ones below..

=========


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## woodshopdemos (Oct 13, 2008)

Deb,
I use the router taable for edge jointing and just now selling the long bed 6" jointer...I no longer need it.









In that picture I am installing a 2" 3/4" cutter.

here is one of many pages on the subject on my site:
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/sstat-18.htm


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

John, Great write up there Thanks!


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## AlanZ (Aug 21, 2008)

As some of you know I have a CMT Industrio table, and that has shims that can be installed for jointing.

I've not used it for jointing, but just got a Steel City planer, and would like to do some jointing to go along with the planing.

So the question is: Should I stick with jointing on the router table, or is there some significant advantage to go with a dedicated jointer that justifies the cost and floor space (both limited resources). 

I found a used Craftsman 6 1/8" jointer (an older model) that I can get at a reasonable price, but I'm not sure if it would be better to just invest in some good bits for the router table.

Your thoughts on the matter?

Thanks in advance.


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## AlanZ (Aug 21, 2008)

A little followup...

I see that a router can be used easily for edge jointing... but what about face jointing.

Assuming that I get wood that might have a less than stellar face as a result of resawing, what's the best method of smoothing/flattening one side and edge before passing it on to the planer.

From my reading, one process would be to flatten one edge and one side on a jointer, then plane to thickness then joint the remaining edge on a saw and trim to length.

Also, it's likely that the wood I'll be working with will be small, probably 1/2" thick and 4" wide by some undetermined length.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI AlanZ

Both work very well,, put the steel bars in the out feed side of the fence then zero out the bit to the out feed side of the fence lock it in place and your set ... 
You have two setting as you know I'm sure on the CMT table setup..

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AlanZ said:


> A little followup...
> 
> I see that a router can be used easily for edge jointing... but what about face jointing.
> 
> ...


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

You can only edge joint with the router table, unless you have a 1"x2"board.
I prefer using my jointer. No setup time.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

You can do up to a 3" x 3" wide stock on the router table 

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-3-B...50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-3-E...50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

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AxlMyk said:


> You can only edge joint with the router table, unless you have a 1"x2"board.
> I prefer using my jointer. No setup time.


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