# Guess it's time for a new table



## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

After going without a dedicated table for a few months in 2013, I built a new dedicated table for my new Triton TRA001. Used a Kreg plate, and some super cheap, but really nice dark Formica (Labrador granite, to be exact). Had room for a bunch of drawers, although I never got around to building them - I just used ill-fitting drawers from a leftover project. I thought this table would last me a long time.

That, however, was not to be. I built the drawer orientation for a layout that doesn't exist anymore. The need that fully necessitates a new table now is the addition of the LS17 system. I've wanted this for years, and I finally decided to treat myself this week with the Pro II fence (I'll get the Wonder Fence later). The reason for the new table is that mine is entirely too small. It is 24"x~36", and with the close quarters of my shop, I don't want to leave the fence nor the adjustment housing overhanging - too easy to damage. So I think it would have to be 28" wide, and 42" long. I'll again use the Formica I have, as I have plenty left.

Again, because of my close quarters, I'm having to consider combining tool footprints. I could either raise up my miter saw and store this underneath, or put the planer in the cavity of the router table. This thread will serve as a solicitation of ideas and tricks, plus the actual build, when it commences.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Must see photos......LOL


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Here is the current one. I looked and I actually designed the drawers to open on the outfeed side of the table. Doh.












The thoughtful thing was, I put the back on the drawer cavity with just screws. I knocked it out after that second picture and swapped it to the other side. With the wider table, I can now put in and properly fit 22" drawer slides. A perfect opportunity to try out my other new toy.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

For the top material try to locate an office supply place that sells used furniture. Ask thenm for a work station surface (a cubical desk top) they are supper strong, covered bin Formica and come in many different sizes. Best of all you can sometimes get them supper cheap or even free if they have the tops laying around. Without the rest of the cubical there aren't worth anything to them.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

mgmine said:


> For the top material try to locate an office supply place that sells used furniture..


Art,

Brilliant suggestion! I have a used office furniture shop just down the street....

May be time to upgrade some of the work tables in my shop


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

The usual laminated MDF for me. This time I'm going to attempt installing the Formica along the edge, like it comes with the pre-man tables. Or hardwood. I haven't decided yet. The second table I did had hardwood just screwed on before, I'd make a better attempt for number...what number am I on?

Is this number 5 or number 6?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Congratulations on your new Incra Fence System.

Look forward to seeing what you do for the drawers in your new router table.

I think I would put the planer under the router table. You will find that you will be using your router table more now that you are tricking it out.

We love photos so keep them coming.


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

Must watch.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

You can see how much the Incra hangs off the back of the table in the last picture. It's for that reason that the entire table has to be redone. It was never in a truly finished state at all. I usually get to a 'good enough' stage with my shop stuff and move on. I'm hoping to take this project to the next level, though. Since I don't intend to not use the Incra going forward, I can perhaps think of this as a 'final' router table that will last me for years. As long as I get the base right. The top could change, if I decide to use a different router plate for some reason.

I'd honestly like to have a more standard table, not something crazy that has to incorporate a planer, or otherwise. However the real estate required to give me a fully functional top might require it. I'll probably be debating options for a couple of weeks, so don't look for anything immediate. If there are any drawers, they'll be done with the Incra. I have to test it out, naturally.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

What's your preferred table height, and how tall are you?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cochese said:


> I'm hoping to take this project to the next level, though.


For some reason I didn't think you did anything unless it was to the next level lol


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Cochese said:


> What's your preferred table height, and how tall are you?


I am 6' and prefer a table height of 40". Much more comfortable, less bending.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

You can add an extension on the side to hold the LS17 base. The LS manual gives you directions on retro fitting an LS to a regular sized router table. It doesn't look very hard at all. You just need to make sure the extension top is level with the table top.

I have an LS25 and my table top is 44" so I have a huge router table where a bit less than half of the area of the top is not really that useful I do put all sorts of stuff there but it's kind of clutter. I did build some large drawers for the table so it holds a lot of stuff including my 4 other routers. 

And congrats on getting an LS. I love mine and go through "withdrawals" when I'm not able to make things with it. I'm sure you will be making all sorts of great things with your.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I considered an extension, but since it would be pretty small, and I couldn't fit anything underneath it, it seems like a waste of space. I'd rather have the cavity to put drawers or shelves in, if I have a choice.

I think I've settled on the top dimensions - 27x43, same as an Incra top. This would make it super easy to upgrade to anything Incra in the future - cleansweep rings, etc. The box will most likely be 24x40, giving me 1.5" of overhang all the way around. Still room to use F-clamps and an auxiliary fence, if for whatever reason I needed it. Planer will NOT be involved. Height is TBD. I'm going to help protect the Incra fence with a couple of rubber bumpers placed strategically. The fence overhangs the 27" width, and I can't quite figure out why.

I got to actually use the LS yesterday, and it highlighted a couple of truths. First is, you need the entire infeed side of the table to work with, as you're constantly trying to put your eye over the cursor just so for template cuts. Second is, the opening for the router cavity needs to be on the infeed side as well - my option to put it to the left side isn't as effective. Third is, I might need to come up with a dust collection solution on the outfeed table edge.

Because the planer will not be made room for, I may have to incorporate storage for other things. Some of that will depend on exactly where the table goes.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Going to use laminate on top, bottom, and the side. Should I put the side on first, then the top/bottom, or the opposite?


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

I have a JessEM lift with the Incra cleansweep insert rings on my LS25 table. The table cabinet is about the same dimensions you listed. It works pretty well and I do love all that storage space. But it is BIG. 

I really like using downdraft DC with the cleansweep rings. It works great. Not sure how you could get that to work with your lift/rings if you stick with the lift you have. Maybe just use rings intended for the larger bit sizes to give room for the airflow. I did that before getting the cleansweep rings and it works pretty well. I might be tempted to try drilling (or routing) holes in the insert rings - phenolic? Though, I have to admit I'm a bit AR about DC... You can see the blue tape used for tuning airflow. I'll replace the acrylic insert with fewer holes when I get around to it.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

PhilBa said:


> I have a JessEM lift with the Incra cleansweep insert rings on my LS25 table. The table cabinet is about the same dimensions you listed. It works pretty well and I do love all that storage space. But it is BIG.
> 
> I really like using downdraft DC with the cleansweep rings. It works great. Not sure how you could get that to work with your lift/rings if you stick with the lift you have. Maybe just use rings intended for the larger bit sizes to give room for the airflow. I did that before getting the cleansweep rings and it works pretty well. I might be tempted to try drilling (or routing) holes in the insert rings - phenolic? Though, I have to admit I'm a bit AR about DC... You can see the blue tape used for tuning airflow. I'll replace the acrylic insert with fewer holes when I get around to it.


Wow Phil that's one heck of a nice build on the router table


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

thanks, rick. It was a lot of fun. My wife is now convinced that all I want to do is build shop stuff. She may be right but I'll never admit it to her...


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

PhilBa said:


> thanks, rick. It was a lot of fun. My wife is now convinced that all I want to do is build shop stuff. She may be right but I'll never admit it to her...


If she's convinced, my suggestion is "don't say a word" :no:

Vince


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I bought a sheet of MDF Saturday morning along with a can of contact cement and started going to work. I had them cut in half at the store, and I put it in the back of our SUV. Oddly, it wouldn't come out, so out came the cordless saw to trim enough off an end so they would. That should have been an omen. Got it bonded together with the occasional screw to help, and cut to final dimensions - 27x43. I came up with a template, after a couple of tries, to get the Kreg plate to go just so. Things were going well, until the clamps slipped (didn't screw down the template), and routed a nice three inch channel into the main portion of the table. Then I did my best Superman and threw the 60lb or so now-worthless MDF across the yard. Super frustrating.

I went back to the store and bought another sheet, this time wisely having them cut it into thirds. This time, I took one of the pieces and cut it to size, then screwed the template to it. I figured if I messed up, I had two more chances. The first time went well enough, so out came the second piece and it got cemented to the first. I strategically placed screws to ensure it never comes apart without my doing. Taking the first go as a sign, I made this version slightly bigger at 28x43. This really does help protect the fence. I then routed out the plate cavity on the opposite sheet (the Kreg doesn't use a lip, but four retaining/adjusting clips) and to match the dimensions. Satisfied with the fit, I marked and drilled the holes to mount the Incra. Much harder to do on a dark laminate, so having the bare MDF was a huge plus. I laminated the bottom, drilled the holes through the laminate, and trimmed the router plate opening. Then it was done again on the show side. I then inserted the plate and used it to mate up the mounting clips. Everything went swimmingly.

I did attempt to put on a side laminate, however it just didn't want to attach well at the corners, so I abandoned that effort. I may in the future put a chamfer on the edge.










I am digging the much larger surface (28x43 vs 24x36), however I would have never gone this large without the Incra. The housing is completely protected, and I'm protected on the fence except for a fraction of an inch. Works for me. It is sitting on the old table base, as this is a two-stage project. The cabinet will be build towards summer.

This is the last router table top I will ever build. The frustration, the cost...I'm buying when I upgrade to the Incra plate and cleansweep inserts. I used up most of my Formica, and I just simply don't want to do it again. I'll live with the inch I don't get by purchasing. A lighter top would help lighten up the space, too.

Still designing the base. Will go with this top and the Incra top whenever I buy it, which probably won't be this year. Debating having a spot for a systainer or two - having the table and the OF1400 in the same spot, plus whatever trim router I do, would be helpful.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Geez Cochese that was quite the adventure . I was laughing with you and not at you when you mention the mdf went into your SUV but wouldn't come out . How the heck does that work lol. 
My hats off to you getting this built though , and I'm sure you learned a lot . 
I was a little concerned about doing it so I cheated and purchaced the Incra top . I am going to build the storage area underneith it though .


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

We've all been there with a laughably bad first attempt. The first top for my LS25 took a major league curve even though I had laminated both sides. Still have no clue why. Nothing more disappointing than going out to the shop and finding that. I'm actually glad I started over as my second attempt came out dead on flat. Looks like you did ok the second time around. A chamfer is a really good idea as it is easy to catch the edge of the laminate and chip it.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I recently went back and counted exactly how many I've had in the last five years. Once the new base is done I make it seven.

#1 - big boy


#2 - this was not a bright idea


#3


#4 - cheating to count this as a different one, but I changed enough things that...it's my rules, okay?


#5 - bottomless!


#5.5









#6


#7 - in progress


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