# DeWalt 733 planer died today



## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

I bought it new in 1997 and used it off and on for the first 17 years but in the last 3 I have used it a lot, sometimes daily. It has always run fine but today I turned it on and it ran for 1/2 a second then quit. Here's what I know:

1) It is getting power, I even switched to different circuit altogether
2) I pulled the switch out to verify that it is good
3) The brushes, though original, are still 1/2" long and show no signs of chipping or abnormal wear
4) The wires on the brushes are intact and the springs have plenty of tension
5) The motor is easy to spins (took the side covers off to verify)
6) The 18 amp built-in breaker on the top of the motor is in the position it should be in
7) In shining a light onto the commutator I see no chips or bridged arcs between segments

I don't really want to spend the money on a new planer and would rather get this one running again. I can order new brushes just to rule that out but again, the current ones look fine to me.

Ideas?

David


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

David; did you do a simple continuity check to the _load_ side of the switch? 
When something was working and then it's not..._what changed?_


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

With me it was a drill press. Replaced the switch and that was all it took to fix it. Still going strong.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

That's what I don't understand. It has never given a hint of trouble and ran fine yesterday. When I turned it on today and it ran for a 1/2 second I thought it must have tripped a breaker. But everything else plugged into that same circuit runs fine. So I plugged it into another one with the same result. Then I pulled the switch completely out, plugged it in again, and checked power on both sides of the switch and there's a full 120 volts on the motor side of the switch.

This is the position of the breaker switch, looks to me like that's where it's supposed to be. And it doesn't want to move at all other than a slight rocking back and forth but it's always been like that. And it has never tripped.

















David


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Jumpering a wire across the breaker contacts will prove if that's the problem at least. Just do that and turn it on. Be prepared to turn it off quickly too. It doesn't sound like a burned armature and you say it shows no signs. Usually there is a drop in power and rpm just before it quits if that is the problem. About the only other thing I can think of is a broken wire.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> David; did you do a simple continuity check to the _load_ side of the switch?
> When something was working and then it's not..._what changed?_


do that to the breaker too...


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

I may have to do that with the breaker but that means just about a full dismantle and I don't have time to do that until Thursday or Friday.

Thanks, Guys!
David


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

difalkner said:


> That's what I don't understand. It has never given a hint of trouble and ran fine yesterday. When I turned it on today and it ran for a 1/2 second I thought it must have tripped a breaker. But everything else plugged into that same circuit runs fine. So I plugged it into another one with the same result. Then I pulled the switch completely out, plugged it in again, and checked power on both sides of the switch and there's a full 120 volts on the motor side of the switch.
> 
> This is the position of the breaker switch, looks to me like that's where it's supposed to be. And it doesn't want to move at all other than a slight rocking back and forth but it's always been like that. And it has never tripped.
> 
> ...


I would get to the switch, detach some wire(s) and check the switch continuity when in ON & OFF positions...

Do the same thing to the Breaker / Fuse IN THE Machine... The Breaker could go bad... and if the breaker went bad, there is probably a REASON for it... ergo, another problem somewhere... (??) 

Those two items should shed some light on it...
You have to check each one on it's own, NOT connected to the machine.

Let us know what happens, OK?

Good luck...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

The wire between the switch and motor OK? Is the breaker broken (just happened to an old one in my house panel.) Anything jammed in the blades, or any binding in the drive that rotates the blade?


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Joe Lyddon said:


> I would get to the switch, detach some wire(s) and check the switch continuity when in ON & OFF positions...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did that already - see above. I can pull it again and check continuity but if it's getting 120 volts on the switched side then I'm going to say the switch is good. To get to the little breaker I've shown in the photo requires a full breakdown and I won't have time for that until the end of the week.

Thanks!
David


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

DesertRatTom said:


> The wire between the switch and motor OK? Is the breaker broken (just happened to an old one in my house panel.) Anything jammed in the blades, or any binding in the drive that rotates the blade?


I'll have to do a complete breakdown to get to the wires past the switch, Tom. I can see about 3" of wire and that's all. It's getting power, tried two sources. The blades spin easily by hand, no resistance above what it should be with the drive belt still attached.

Thanks!
David


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

David, From the photo, it looks like the breaker can be popped out with a screwdriver.


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## cjhilinski (Apr 25, 2017)

You did check the brushes, right? DeWalt brushes only last about 100 hours on their handheld tools.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

gmercer_48083 said:


> David, From the photo, it looks like the breaker can be popped out with a screwdriver.


I thought about that but not being certain I didn't want to break it. I may dive into the motor breakdown PDF and see if I can tell. If so that would be MUCH easier! Thanks!



cjhilinski said:


> You did check the brushes, right? DeWalt brushes only last about 100 hours on their handheld tools.


I thought about that, too, but when I talked to DeWalt they told me the OEM replacement brush is only a tiny bit longer than mine at 1/2". The manual says there's a line on the brush and when that line is reached it's time to change them. This model doesn't have the line but when I look at a photo of the replacement brush that line is about 1/8" from the spring. If that's the case then these are lifetime brushes, for me, anyway. Thanks!

David


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Thing that gets my attention David, is that it_ started then stopped._ I'm assuming you hadn't actually started running a board through when it quit?
It really sounds like there's a break in the cct. somewhere(?). As others have said, if it were a motor issue you should have had some kind of indication before it died.
You're getting power on the load side of the switch so that (probably) eliminates everything between the load side of that switch and the panel.
Are there any safety interlocks of any kind, other than the breaker?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Did the motor 'wind down" when it quite or did it suddenly STOP?


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

difalkner said:


> Did that already - see above. I can pull it again and check continuity but if it's getting 120 volts on the switched side then I'm going to say the switch is good. To get to the little breaker I've shown in the photo requires a full breakdown and I won't have time for that until the end of the week.
> 
> Thanks!
> David


Then you must follow the 120v TO the Motor...

If it's getting to the motor and the motor doesn't run, the motor is bad.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Thing that gets my attention David, is that it_ started then stopped._ I'm assuming you hadn't actually started running a board through when it quit?
> It really sounds like there's a break in the cct. somewhere(?). As others have said, if it were a motor issue you should have had some kind of indication before it died.
> You're getting power on the load side of the switch so that (probably) eliminates everything between the load side of that switch and the panel.
> Are there any safety interlocks of any kind, other than the breaker?


Correct, Dan, it didn't run long enough to even get my hand off the switch so no boards went through. I don't see any interlocks other than the 18 amp built-in breaker (overload).



TwoSkies57 said:


> Did the motor 'wind down" when it quite or did it suddenly STOP?


No, Bill, it spun down but never even got up to half speed. Well, maybe a better way to say that is it wound down from whatever speed it attained in that 1/2 second, which may have been more like 1/4 second. And the motor is very free to spin by hand.

Thanks, Guys!
David


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## cjhilinski (Apr 25, 2017)

Since it never reached speed, I'm still going with brushes. But if there's a cap on the motor, it could be that, too, I guess. I've had one of those go on a drill press. I had to spin the chuck by hand to get it going.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

switch/cable/brushes sound good. Doubt that the breaker is at fault, since its never tripped before...sounds to me like a wire come loose/broke at the motor...thats where I'd be heading


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Maybe there is a BAD Capacitor on the motor?

Sounds like something it would do...

:surprise:


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Not sure brush type universal motors have capacitors. This one doesn't, anyway. It's just like the motor on your router.

David


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Does it still make any noise when turned on?


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Does it still make any noise when turned on?


No sir, nothing but the mechanical noise of the switch.

David


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

difalkner said:


> No sir, nothing but the mechanical noise of the switch.
> 
> David


... and you measure voltage to the motor?

If voltage to the motor and motor does not run, looks like it's time for a New Motor.
(if new brushes are easy to get, etc. I'd try them 1st)


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

I can measure voltage to the motor side of the switch so something is open between the switch and the motor (brushes).

I got to thinking that maybe I can see the breaker through the switch opening if I remove the switch and I can see it just fine, no disassembly necessary. And the good thing is that the breaker is closed so I can rule that out. I still don't really have time to break the unit down to get the motor out so that may have to wait.









David


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

difalkner said:


> I can measure voltage to the motor side of the switch so something is open between the switch and the motor (brushes).
> 
> I got to thinking that maybe I can see the breaker through the switch opening if I remove the switch and I can see it just fine, no disassembly necessary. And the good thing is that the breaker is closed so I can rule that out. I still don't really have time to break the unit down to get the motor out so that may have to wait.
> 
> ...


OK, it sounds like you have voltage coming OUT of the switch... BUT cannot measure voltage AT the motor... which is the key question... You MUST be able to measure voltage AT the Motor...


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

I took the time to take the motor off after I figured out that I didn't have to disassemble the entire unit (makes sense that it would come off without that...). 

So here's what I have:
1) The two white leads in the photo are open and show no value. 
2) There is no short or value between either lead and the commutator.
3) I went through the brush openings and checked resistance across the commutator segments 180° apart and all read the same.
4) It appears that going much further in this disassembly may require special tools, puller, etc. I can get the gearbox off but that's not going to do much for me at this point.

David


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

difalkner said:


> I took the time to take the motor off after I figured out that I didn't have to disassemble the entire unit (makes sense that it would come off without that...).
> 
> So here's what I have:
> 1) The two white leads in the photo are open and show no value.
> ...


If those are the ONLY two wires coming from the motor... and there is NO continuity between them, to me, that indicates the circuit is OPEN where if voltage were applied, NOTHING would happen... ergo, Bad Motor.

It's nice that it should not be too hard to replace it!

Also looks like a lot of carbon around everything, etc. 

You would have nothing to lose by taking the motor apart (so you could put back together) looking for disconnected wires, etc. (which could easily be fixed with a little solder, etc.)

Are the Motors still available? At what cost?

I think you really Found the problem... Finally! 

Good Luck!


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

He's Dead, Jim!


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

MT Stringer said:


> He's Dead, Jim!
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3at_Ev2kOoI


Yep... It's Dead... :surprise: :grin: :crying:


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

MT Stringer said:


> He's Dead, Jim!
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3at_Ev2kOoI


Sandy and I got a big kick out of that, Mike! Funny!

David


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## silb (Sep 21, 2017)

Condolences


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Thanks to all for the suggestions and help! I may repurpose this planer; I'll let you know what happens to it. 

David


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Well, I thought I was through with this topic but when I saw the blades I had to post a photo. I have not sharpened or replaced blades in the entire 20 years I've had this planer. This is the first time I've even seen them except to take a glance from the working side on occasion.

Not too bad after 20 years - 








David


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

difalkner said:


> Well, I thought I was through with this topic but when I saw the blades I had to post a photo. I have not sharpened or replaced blades in the entire 20 years I've had this planer. This is the first time I've even seen them except to take a glance from the working side on occasion.
> 
> Not too bad after 20 years -
> View attachment 300370
> ...


... maybe they put an extra Drag on the motor... (?)


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

difalkner said:


> Well, I thought I was through with this topic but when I saw the blades I had to post a photo. I have not sharpened or replaced blades in the entire 20 years I've had this planer. This is the first time I've even seen them except to take a glance from the working side on occasion.
> 
> Not too bad after 20 years -
> View attachment 300370
> ...


I can see you will never be called "PalletMan"! :surprise: My blades don't last that long!:grin::grin::grin:


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

MT Stringer said:


> I can see you will never be called "PalletMan"! :surprise: My blades don't last that long!:grin::grin::grin:


Yep, gotta' say I am really careful what I run through my tools. I'm surprised these lasted this long, to tell you the truth.

David


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## Will Rob Dyke (Mar 24, 2020)

Hi Guys, I have had a similar problem. Motor was not running good so
I replaced the brushes(old ones were worn out after inspecting them) and when
I hit the power switch nothing!!! Power switch was good as well as the breaker.
The last thing I did was(with the power off of course) spin the motor a bit by pulling
on the belt(did not have to take the case off as you can find a small opening that will
let a couple of fingers in to advance the motor by pulling on the belt).

MUCH TO MY SURPRISE BAM!!!! I pulled the switch She is up and running again.

After all that it was a 5 second fix...LOL!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Excellent, Will
"Where there's Will there's a way!"

Welcome to the forums, Will.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Welcome to the forums, Will.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Will Rob **** said:


> Hi Guys, I have had a similar problem. Motor was not running good so
> I replaced the brushes(old ones were worn out after inspecting them) and when
> I hit the power switch nothing!!! Power switch was good as well as the breaker.
> The last thing I did was(with the power off of course) spin the motor a bit by pulling
> ...


Welcome to the forum, Will! There's no way I could have done that with mine. 'Cause if I had done that I wouldn't have ended up with a veneer press and a new DeWalt 735! :no: :laugh:

David


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

difalkner said:


> Welcome to the forum, Will! There's no way I could have done that with mine. 'Cause if I had done that I wouldn't have ended up with a veneer press and a new DeWalt 735! :no: :laugh:
> 
> David


Beginning to sound like you may end up with that combo anyway.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

@difalkner

So, I failed to note the timeline on all this. What was the final outcome?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Will Rob **** said:


> The last thing I did was(with the power off of course) spin the motor a bit by pulling
> on the belt(did not have to take the case off as you can find a small opening that will
> let a couple of fingers in to advance the motor by pulling on the belt).
> 
> ...


that process seated the brushes...


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

JFPNCM said:


> Beginning to sound like you may end up with that combo anyway.





JFPNCM said:


> @difalkner
> 
> So, I failed to note the timeline on all this. What was the final outcome?


I haven't looked at this thread in a long time, Jon, and thought the repurposing was included, but it's in this thread - Repurposed planer into veneer press

David


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

@difalkner

David

My apologies, it turns out I read the "outcome" post as well. But that was oh so long ago in my memory banks.&#55357;&#56883;

Thanks


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