# Wood latch for case?



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Many of my projects I do not put metal in, no nails, no screws, just glue or locking joints used. I want to make a case, well several actually, and do not want to use any metal in them. Hinges, no prob, pretty much got those figured out. The cases will be laid flat, unlatched, and the top lifted. What I need is a latch, that will hold them closed, keep them closed until intentionally opened, and all wood.

Yeah, yeah, I know, I could get metal latches, and be done with it. If that's what I wanted, I would have already done it, and not be asking. I've done a ton of image searches on-line, come up with a lot of door latch designs, but little on case latches. Been doing heaps of thinking on it, and came up with a whole lot of Rube Goldbergl-ish designs, I didn't care for. Did come up with a lot of workable latches, but they all involved a part that was not intregal with the latch, and would eventually misplaced or lost, unless it was fastened on with a cord. Don'tt want that. Want something that any moveable parts are part of the whole, and can't get lost. So far, this is the best I've found, alho did come up with a similar idea on the same lines well before I ran across this. Wooden Urn Box Latch Mechanism - YouTube

So, anyone got any workable ideas on the subject? I prefer no metal in my projects because I sometimes recycle them, and don't want to hit any metal with my saw or planer, especially the planer, glue all the way.
:help:


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Tell us more about the size, weight, or forces that would be affecting the lids. I think I have an idea that might work but not sure if it is suitable for your project. If the box (?) is small you would only need one, if long or large maybe two. I'll try to mock one up tomorrow.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Sorry. I can't tell much from your picture.

Al


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

this is a link for wooden latches...
lotsa links and maybe an idea or three...

http://isearch.avg.com/search?q=wooden%20latches&pid=avg&sg=0&cid={2ff15110-d1cf-451e-bef1-7e4a68abebe2}&mid=9567270cb46e47d194096939b2aa32a6-afbcacc243075076fa2f750a34b57ac74d4330e4&ds=&coid=&cmpid=&v=18.1.7.644&lang=&pr=&d=2014-06-25%2021%3A33%3A59&sap=nt&snd=hp&sap_acp=0


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

cool ideas in pictures...

https://woodgears.ca/wood_hardware/doorknobs.html


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Theo, here's what quickly comes to mind for me...
Wooden "hasp", two diameter dowel and small spinner.
The hasp will include a wooden hinge with a swinging plate that is slotted.
The other side will include a spinner slightly smaller than the slot (above).
The spinner is held on with a dowel of two diameters - creating a "nail head".
The dowel passes through the spinner somewhat snugly.

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Oliver: These will be a series of gun cases. About 4" inside thickness, by about 8" wide, and probably about 42" long - got to figure out which is the longest, and use that for length. Don't know yet if these will be custom fitted to each individual rifle or shotgun, but most likely moveable spacers, to adapt each case to the particular gun in it at the time. It will split probably in the center, so top will be 2", as will the bottom be. I want something that's going to be Hell for strong - I will probably lend one or two to my older son, and want to be sure I get it back in usable condition - he has some strange friends. So, both sides will be 1/2" plywood, and the walls will be 1/2" strips of plywood, 3/4" wide. Not a clue yet as to potential weight, but weight is really not a major issue, I'm too durn old and stiff to be carrying one far anyway. And, after the Acme light bulb change, I'd be more than happy to see anything you come up with. I'm thinking it would take two - insurance you know.

Al: The picture is the same as what is shown and explained in the video.

Stick: Thanks, but I think I've already seen all of them. Did get a thought or two, but don't really think they'll come to much, but never can tell.

Otis: Took me a lot of rereading that before I got it in my mind. Definite potential, but I'm not 100% sure the spinner wouldn't spin during handling. If both did, a chance the hasps would pop open. But on the other hand, been thinking about two rope handles, or leather, or something that would move, so might not be a major issue to hook a cord or something to the spinners, and in turn to the handle, so lifting the handle would sort of lock them in place.

Thanks guys.


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## Roloff (Jan 30, 2009)

*Wooden case latch in YouTube*

Did you see this in YouTube? You can choose how tight to make it all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nChH5Y7DF5c


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

JOAT said:


> Oliver: So, both sides will be 1/2" plywood, and the walls will be 1/2" strips of plywood, 3/4" wide.


Let me make sure I'm understanding you correctly, Theo: The sides (walls) will be four layers of glued up 3/4" wide strips of 1/2" ply making the walls 3/4" thick by about 2" tall for both the bottom and top (lid) of the case. Meaning we have a 3/4" thick wall to install a latch onto or into?

Since there are no hinges and the top lifts off, latches are probably needed on each end or (considering the length) perhaps two on each side? 

Are you totally committed to the "no metal" rule? Not even a small compression spring that could be easily removed for recycling?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Two things come quickly to mind.. 
A cam style latch. Using an offset to apply/engage the latch.
But I think this may eventually wear with time and use...

Second would be a "strip" of wood that would act as your spring. something along the 
lines of a diving board. Fixed on one end, yet flexible at the other. The flexible end would provide the needed pressure to engage the latch into the catch. The length, thickness and durability of the wood used would be 
considerations.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Roloff: Yep, seen it.

Oliver: Yep, that's pretty much it. Except that there actually 'will' be hinges, wooden hinges. And, yes, 100% no metal. Some of my projects get metal, but most not. My big piggy bank has one piece of metal, a T-nut, glued inside between two strips of wood so it won't come loose; I don't count the washer and bolt, because they are not actually connected to the bank; same with my monster truck bank - oh yeah, the bolt holds in the strip of plywood that keeps the money in. My wooden figure banks tho are 100% no metal, the back is held in place by a wood wedge. 

Bill: No to the cam latch. However, there is 'always' a however, law of the universe or something - however that idea of a wood 'spring' bears some thought.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Okay, Theo, here's my quick and dirty solution. It may not be robust enough for your needs but might help you generate some ideas.

Since your walls are 3/4" thick, I was able to seat a wooden "spring" and button into a dado so it is flush with the outer surface. A latch is attached to the front of the lid (top) and engages the spring button when closed. The photos make all this easier to understand.

The spring / button piece is 6" long made out of 1/2" plywood thinned to a 1/8" thick by 4" long section for the spring area. The 1/2" thick section of the spring is 2" long and gives a good glue area for attaching in the dado.The spring action seems to be pretty strong and, since there are two layers of ply, shouldn't break easily.

The dado (1/2 deep) gives 3/8" of space under the button end of the spring and is enough to depress the button and release the latch.

I made the latch from 1/4" plywood because the button I used is only 1/4" tall. With this system everything is flush except for the top latch which only sticks out 1/4" beyond the front surface and shouldn't get caught on anything. The edges of it could be rounded to make it more streamlined.


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## BCK (Feb 23, 2014)

thx for sharing


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I once made a box with wooden hinges on both sides, but the real hinged side had a continuous 1/8" dowel for the pivot. The other side (latch side) also had hinges, but they were loose pin style wood hinges similar to the other side, but with short pieces of 1/8" dowel to form the pins with gaps. All that was necessary to open the box was to slide the cover in the correct direction and then lift the lid. To close it you simply closed the lid in it's offset position and then slid the lid back into alignment with the bottom to latch it closed. Sorry, no pictures. The box was made over 30 years ago and sold.

Charley


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Oliver, I figured you and Acme would come thru. That has definite possibilities. Thanks.


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## hankh (Jun 25, 2013)

If you are willing to use "a little bit" of metal, you can use a dowel that sits in a bored hole with a (metal) spring behind it. A small post is attached to the dowel, running in a slot, to open the latch. You can use a spring as strong as you need in order to prevent accidentally sliding it open. I'm attaching pictures of such a latch that I used on a crib that I built for my grandson. I had to find a spring strong enough that he could not open it, soft enough that my daughter would not need a crowbar. But it does use metal.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

hankh said:


> If you are willing to use "a little bit" of metal


No. If I was willing to use any metal at all I would not have posed the question, just got a metal latch, or two.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I forgot the K.I.S.S. principle. Keep It Simple Stupid.

And the answer is - Velcro. A couple of wide pieces of that should do the trick quite nicely. Should have thought of it earlier. What I'm planning is not going to be museum quality, just cases that will be knocked about, but will do the job. 
:thank_you2:


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

JOAT said:


> I forgot the K.I.S.S. principle. Keep It Simple Stupid.
> 
> And the answer is - Velcro. A couple of wide pieces of that should do the trick quite nicely. Should have thought of it earlier. What I'm planning is not going to be museum quality, just cases that will be knocked about, but will do the job.
> :thank_you2:


Theo, Theo, Theo ... VELCRO?! Why that is just so ... so... COMMON! Where's the challenge in that? Is it simple? Yes. Effective? Yes. Reliable? Yes. Inexpensive? Yes. 

Okay, I'll grant you that it is a good solution. It's just that it is so ... BORING. :laugh:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Gaffboat said:


> Theo, Theo, Theo ... VELCRO?! Why that is just so ... so... COMMON! Where's the challenge in that? Is it simple? Yes. Effective? Yes. Reliable? Yes. Inexpensive? Yes.
> 
> Okay, I'll grant you that it is a good solution. It's just that it is so ... BORING. :laugh:


Well, I is a comman man. And these cases are going to be knocked together, fast, so boring as Velcro might be, it will go on fast.

Actually I'm keeping the other suggestions in reserve. One day, when I come up with a really nice case design I really like, I have some very nice aromatic cedar set aside, and I will make a very nice case for my grand-daughter, and promise that the latch will not be boring.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

I call foul - bait and switch!



JOAT said:


> *What I need is a latch, that will hold them closed, keep them closed until intentionally opened, and all wood.*


 
*Previously on Router Forum ...*



JOAT said:


> *And the answer is - Velcro. A couple of wide pieces of that should do the trick quite nicely.*


 
:dance3:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

What, Velcro isn't made of wood? I am truly shocked to learn this.

OK, OK, Velcro and wood. Just no metal. 

But after Oliver berated me on suggesting using Velcro (you made me almost cry Oliver. :cray: Shame on you. :lol: ) I suddenly realized - I can glue wood on the Velcro, not just Velcro on the case. This will not only hide the Velcro itself, but it will also give quite a few options as to the final latch(s). Decorated, cut into various shapes, etc. I already have several variations I am considering. But, like I said 'these' cases are going to be rough and ready, nothing fancy about them - however, at the same time they will be ideal for testing my ideas, and if any turn out ugly, no problem, as long as they work. Then, once I get a latch design I really like, it will be time to turn out some nicer cases. Gads, I love woodworking. And, yes, once I can get started on this there will be pictures.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

*Velcro latch idea*

Okay, Theo, velcro it is. So here's my quick-and-dirty take on an easy to make velcro-powered latch that should be secure but still be protected from accidental opening.

I made it out of 1/2" and 1/4" plywood plus a 1/4" dowel because ... well, because that's what I had laying around. As you can see from the photos, the side supports which are part of the hinge also protect the latch from being bumped open.

Hopefully this will inspire your thinking. Feel free to accept / reject / modify / ignore my suggestion. In any event, it gave me a fun, quick little project for the shop this morning. And, for that, I thank you. Life is too short to not have a good time.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Gaffboat said:


> Okay, Theo, velcro it is. So here's my quick-and-dirty take


Nice, hadn't thought of anything even close to that. May just have to go with it, on at least one case. Something like that might even be nice enough to go on the case for my grand-dau. Thanks muchly. I will be trying a few of my ideas, but I do like yours.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Gaffboat said:


> Okay, Theo, velcro it is. So here's my quick-and-dirty take on an easy to make velcro-powered latch that should be secure but still be protected from accidental opening.
> 
> I made it out of 1/2" and 1/4" plywood plus a 1/4" dowel because ... well, because that's what I had laying around. As you can see from the photos, the side supports which are part of the hinge also protect the latch from being bumped open.
> 
> Hopefully this will inspire your thinking. Feel free to accept / reject / modify / ignore my suggestion. In any event, it gave me a fun, quick little project for the shop this morning. And, for that, I thank you. Life is too short to not have a good time.


Nice - add blind hole to the latch and a short dowel to the box and then it becomes a wodden latch held closed by velcro. Could also use a slot on latcha and a tongue on box.


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