# Using the Incra jig System



## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Friday, I had better success with the box joints. Using a better specced router bit,the joints were nice, but still tight. Today after much thought, I went back to the fence and cut some offset finger joints in thin MDF. These worked well. In the afternoon I sorted out some solid 3/8" oak. Planed and ripped. Planed and cross cut on the radial arm. Reduced the depth of cut, to make 2 passes on the router table. Easy with the router-lift. Trimmed a fraction off the edges rather than route the whole chunk off and split the edge. Dropped the fence slightly. Perfection. What a jig. No hammers or force needed. You do need to sort out the correct sized bits. The wood needs to be square and flat. You need front and backing waste. But after 5 minutes of routing, you have a really good box frame. I am really happy. Dovetails to follow soon.


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## Mike Gager (Jan 14, 2009)

cool lets see some pics!


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## psikes (Jun 1, 2006)

Not trying to hijack this thread but has anyone tried the MLCS bits with the Incra jigs? I tried using an older 3/8 straight bit and my box joints would not match up. Checked it against another 3/8 bit and there was only about a 2/1000 difference but it sure shows up in the joints. 

The MLCS Incra set is a good price bu tonly if they will work.

Thanks - Phil


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I have the MCLS Incra bit set. The 3/8" bit is well under sized and will not work too well especially in quality Birch ply and really hard woods. I have replaced it with a 1/2" shank Trend cutter that is spot on. I have been using a 1/4" shank Trend cutter that was fine in oak. The other straight cutters from Incra work fine. I have not attempted any dovetails yet.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

The first thing I tried with my Incra was box joints with a 3/8" bit from the Grizzly Incra set and they didn't fit. I routed grooves with 4 different 3/8" bits, and none measured exactly 3/8" with the calipers. I ended up getting a Whiteside bit and everything fit fine.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I use a Freud 3/8" spiral upcut and the joints are right on. In softer wood there is a little room. Harder wood and they get real tight.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Everyone who has used or seen used the Incra fence system will agree that it's probably the most versatile and accurate system available, however, for the sake of newcomers who are interested in box making, I must reiterate that for accurate basic finger joints, jigs like the OakPark spacer fences, available in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" are cheap and easy to use and would leave sufficient cash to buy a second router!


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## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

harrysin said:


> Everyone who has used or seen used the Incra fence system will agree that it's probably the most versatile and accurate system available, however, for the sake of newcomers who are interested in box making, I must reiterate that for accurate basic finger joints, jigs like the OakPark spacer fences, available in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" are cheap and easy to use and would leave sufficient cash to buy a second router!


Say Harry, speaking of the Oak Park jigs, I dimly recall reading somewhere you can mount them to a piece of 1/2" ply or MDF and forgo drilling holes in top of your router table-just clamp the "board"with the jig on it to the router table top.
Is the gin getting to my brain or was there actually such a post?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You're dead right Fatz, from what I can gather, many members use the OP spacer jig mounted on a board and clamp it to the table when required.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

harrysin said:


> Everyone who has used or seen used the Incra fence system will agree that it's probably the most versatile and accurate system available, however, for the sake of newcomers who are interested in box making, I must reiterate that for accurate basic finger joints, jigs like the OakPark spacer fences, available in 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" are cheap and easy to use and would leave sufficient cash to buy a second router!


Harry,
I am going to have to call a technical on you. The joints you made are not finger joints. They are box joints. Finger joints are what's used to splice the ends of two boards together as in 2 x 4's and such and are triangular in shape. This could lead to some confusion to the guys and gals just starting out.
This should help show the difference...
MLCS Finger Joint, Box Joint, Window Sill Carbide Tipped Router Bits


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## HDS (Jun 3, 2009)

*Hi Mike*

As a keen supporter of the excellent Incra equip ment, I couldn't agree more.
I use mine daily, but one small tip I have for you is, make sure you keep an old toothbrush nearby to keep the indexing teeth free from chips, which can lodge tightly between the racks over a period of time.

I make amazing dovetails with ease now, (Persistence and practice to get the centering and bit height exact).

I would also consider an Incra mitre Guage, and their rules are brilliant.
I have all imperial measure, 12" straight rule, 6" T rule, (Doubles as a brilliant square, you can quickly adjust for left or right handed and fantastic for router bit height setting at the router table), the protractor is amazing, though since I bought my Incra Mitre 1000SE mitre guage, I've only used it to measure angles I want to duplicate, The Mitre Guage does the rest.

These are amazingly well designed and thought out tools, making marking, measuring and very accurate cutting as easy as thirty years of experience in carpentry.
I'm looking to upgrase to an LS system with a wonder fence, (When I win the Lottery!)

All the best,
Henry.

Woodwork is one of lifes true pleasures.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

George my good friend, what would I do without you watching over me like a father figure! You are of course spot on, however it's hard to teach an old dog new tricks, all of my woodworking life I've interchanged the two terms, I can't even remember when lumber started to be joined length ways with finger joints, I'm sure that finger jointed timber wasn't available in my younger days where now it's readily available. Do please continue to keep an eye on me George!


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

curiousgeorge said:


> Harry,
> I am going to have to call a technical on you. The joints you made are not finger joints. They are box joints. Finger joints are what's used to splice the ends of two boards together as in 2 x 4's and such and are triangular in shape. This could lead to some confusion to the guys and gals just starting out.
> This should help show the difference...
> MLCS Finger Joint, Box Joint, Window Sill Carbide Tipped Router Bits


Actually I have seen that joint called a box joint and a finger joint. For example, both Popular Woodworking Magazine PW LINK and Fine Woodworking magazine PW LINK call it a finger joint, and I have some books and other articles that call them finger joints too. 

It may also depend on what side of the pond your on; I've seen some books call a rabbet joint a rebate joint.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I have always heard them called COMB joints. Think of a pair of hair combs meshing together.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Noob said:


> Actually I have seen that joint called a box joint and a finger joint. For example, both Popular Woodworking Magazine PW LINK and Fine Woodworking magazine PW LINK call it a finger joint, and I have some books and other articles that call them finger joints too.
> 
> It may also depend on what side of the pond your on; I've seen some books call a rabbet joint a rebate joint.


You are correct, of course, Paulo. But if you checked the links in my post you will plainly see that if an unknowing person ordered a finger joint bit from MLCS thinking he was getting a box joint, they would be upset or at the least confused about the difference. These articles in the mags you listed are "technically" just as wrong as Harry was.
Having said all that and the truth be known, it doesn't make a **** to me what anyone calls it. I was only having a little fun poking a stick at my friend Harry.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Back to the Incra jig. I bought the centering attachment years ago. It saves on setup time and material. It is a metal flat with a big washer at one end, a pivoting bit of aluminium angle section at the other, a small losable spacer. The flat bar has a hole near the centre. A pin fits into your collet and through the hole. The washer touches the fence and your timber stock fits between the fence and the angle plate. I must take some pictures that will save a thousand words.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Yes indeed Mike, I've certainly also known them as a comb joint but let us all remember that a rose by any other name is still a rose! Just be sure to order cutters by part number, not description.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

*Photo of centre finder*

Original OEM Incra jig centre finder. Bought from Tilgear. U.K.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Mike Wingate said:


> Original OEM Incra jig centre finder. Bought from Tilgear. U.K.


If I assume correctly from the first pic, there is a pin in the router and a hole in the "arm" slips over that pin. This "arm" (or whatever you want to call it) has a scribed line in the center. If that is correct, my question is how does it find the center? Do you mark the wood and then move the fence back until the scribed line lands on the mark or what?

I don't even know if that was offered in the states because I can't find it anywhere...


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

The 1/4" pin fits into the router collet and the arm of the centering device pivots on it. This is part of the setup. No marking out needed. Slide the router fence slowly so both the large bearing washer and the whole of the face edge of the timber are in loose contact with the fence. A turn of the fine adjustment wheel snugs the wood in the correct position. The other side of the wood is supported/spaced by the small pivoting piece of alloy angle plate. No physical marking out of the wood necessary. It is simple and quite clever relying on geometry. Hence perfect. Why Incra no longer sell it? Yes the centering pin setup (lightly held in the collet) is a bit of a pain, but it works.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I found an older post through google on this site
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/6253-centering-pin.html

Woodpeck sell them for $15.
Incra Jig Accessories


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

And I have just found my 1/4" 1/2" double ended set up pin. That will save me a few more second of set up time. If everything is set up properly, the job will progress so much better. Calm, relaxed, focused. I am a technology teacher and I really wish I could get 2 out of 3 of the above!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Paulo..

woodpeckers.com still carries em..


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

An auto center is on sale on ebay at the moment. It really works well. Snap it up.

INCRA Auto Center Centering Tool Woodworking Wood Jig on eBay (end time 29-Jun-09 21:15:45 BST)


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

At $9 shipping? I don't think so.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

You may want to get this free program for dovetails 

template builder
template maker

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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Interesting and great. Are there any more out there, or has anyone developed any tape templates for the Incra system?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I'm sure, I have not done any digging for them but you know the NET almost anything you want is on it somewhere 

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Mike Wingate said:


> Interesting and great. Are there any more out there, or has anyone developed any tape templates for the Incra system?


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## Ray Squirrell (Jul 4, 2009)

Mike - Am about to set up a new INCRA system - Will pay attention to your info


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Thanks Ray. I have read plenty of books on routers, looked at so many catalogues and watched videos and read forum messages. But I am no expert. I do what I do, after a lot of thought, and it suits me and the way I work. I get good results, excellent ones with the Incra setup and correct bits. It really is trial and error, so look and make up your own mind. The Incra DVDs and their own videos are excellent guides. The Incra manuals are straightforward so get them and follow them. With woodworking, you don't need to buy everything you see. Adapting safely what you have saves money. Not necessarily time though. I seem to spend more time making jigs than products.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Still haven't got around to using my Incra Jig yet but thanks for the template link Bob! One day I am sure it will come in handy


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

You're Welcome 

It can be used on all dovetail setups (OP for one of many) not just the Incra,,just print out what you want to put in,glue it to the stock, then set the bit up to match the print out ..no guess work involved 


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CanuckGal said:


> Still haven't got around to using my Incra Jig yet but thanks for the template link Bob! One day I am sure it will come in handy


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Hi Bob,

Just catching this thread now...that is very cool. Thanks from me as well. When I get the new table finished I plan to do more with the Incra jig and I think this will simplify the process.


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## dick.powell (Jun 22, 2009)

Just picked up this thread - I took delivery of my Incra system last week and got it all assembled this last weekend, using a Trend T11. What's more, I made my first finger-jointed box as a trial in about an hour . . . it wasn't perfect by any means, but I learnt a great deal. It's very expensive but, for me, getting up and running quickly and accurately was more important than cost. As a designer, I get frustrated quickly by poorly designed equipment and the Incra set up looked well thought through - and so it proved. Gripes? The big one is there is no metric option, just imperial - clearly, they don't think European sales are important or they simply don't have the capacity at the moment. But apart from that, it's all well made and easy to use . . . highly recommended!


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

dick.powell said:


> Just picked up this thread - I took delivery of my Incra system last week and got it all assembled this last weekend, using a Trend T11. What's more, I made my first finger-jointed box as a trial in about an hour . . . it wasn't perfect by any means, but I learnt a great deal. It's very expensive but, for me, getting up and running quickly and accurately was more important than cost. As a designer, I get frustrated quickly by poorly designed equipment and the Incra set up looked well thought through - and so it proved. Gripes? The big one is there is no metric option, just imperial - clearly, they don't think European sales are important or they simply don't have the capacity at the moment. But apart from that, it's all well made and easy to use . . . highly recommended!


Dick,

I did a google search on "Incra metric jig" and a wealth of sites popped up, including this (see attachment) that came from http://www.incra.com/manuals/IncraJigMetricAddendum.pdf

Apparently they do support metric joints, at least at some level. I haven't researched any deeper to see just how deep it goes.

Jim


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I have a set of green 1mm incremental racks.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Aha! Making tools to make tools! That sounds very familiar !

Incidentally, many thanks for reuniting me with Tilgear. Their catalogue arrived this morning! I used to go there a lot 20yrs ago.

Cheers

Peter


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## dick.powell (Jun 22, 2009)

Thanks Jim, but it's easier to work in imperial using the supplied rulers and templates for now. I can't b doing with all that calculation in making the conversions! I was just musing on how Incra should do a metric one - not that many changes for them but it would open up huge possibilities around Europe which must be closed to them otherwise.

D


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## HDS (Jun 3, 2009)

Thanks CuriousGeorge,
I'm no beginner, but coming from the other side of the pond, I too was confused, thinking you call box joints, finger joints in the US.
You also call Rebates, "Rabbets", One which I actually prefer to be honest, well at least my wife likes the thought of cute little furry things running around in the chippings on my shop floor, (or are we really going to confuse the rookies now?).

All the best,
Henry.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Now if you set your expensive Incra jigs to cut angles you can build the Angled clock project shown under *Project Plans and How To*. You mean for all that money the Incra does not work on angles? I built this using the $22 Oak Park 3/8" box joint jig. "Simple is better!" 
click here to see the Angled Clock: Router Forums - View Single Post - Angled clock


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