# Cutting Aluminum



## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

To build my next CNC I will have 6 pcs of 1/2" thick aluminum each approx 6"x48". Since the place I buy my aluminum are using a saw to cut my pcs with a tolerance of +1/8", I will have to trim all edges to be perfect and square to what I want.

A machine shop asked $50 a piece to trim all the edges plus $70 as a setup fee and so this is out of question for me. As per attached pictures, I did use my router to cut 2 slots on my previous CNC so I plan to trim the edges by myself. 

The cutting will be on the long sides of each piece and I will cut approx 1/16" at about 1/32" depth per pass. I have no problem with the ends which I will cut with my chop saw. The questions I have are:

Is it better to use a table mounted router or handheld? I prefer handheld because I believe the chips will clog the router sitting under the table

Is it better to use a larger diameter bit or smaller is better


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I'm not a great fan of cutting aluminum on a table saw, but I have done it several times with fair results. Although a wood cutting carbide blade does work I think you might get better results with a blade intended for cutting aluminum. They do make them. My cuts with a fine tooth wood blade were not very smooth and I suspect that the blades intended for aluminum cutting might do better. The thickest aluminum that I ever cut was 1/8 inch. Coat the blade with WD-40 or similar lubricant before you start and after every cut. It lubricates the cut, improves results, and reduces the accumulation of aluminum on the blade. Clean the wood sawdust out of your saw before you start and then clean the aluminum saw chips out of the saw before using it to cut wood again. 

I haven't used a router on aluminum, so I'll let others respond on this. 

Charley


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Perhaps I was not clear but I don’t intend to do any aluminum cutting on the table saw.

I will use my chop saw (miter saw) which has a blade for aluminum cutting to cut the ends of each piece and then I will use my router to trim the long sides of each piece 

Although a lot of people use WD-40 to lubricate the blade / bit, my experience shows that regular engine oil does a much better job.

Thanks for your input Charley


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

I detail (rout) the edges and ends of aluminum up to 3/4" thick & 24" long.
It is not a straight forward operation & it carries many risks to the work & worker.
I'll say the table will give you the best chance.
Cutters, if not solid carbide, should be as large as practical.
But key to this whole thing is fixturing. The work cannot squirm in its holders, the fence and router must also be rock solid. Cuts must be light, .00n"/cut/pass not 1/32nds.
Would take a couple of pages to explain the fences and fixtures I use.
But one picture here shows the fixturing in choppiing to length.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Hey Pat, thanks for the info

Glad to hear of your work and the picture shows a solid hold down

I'm aware of the risks involved and planning to use solid carbide cutter and hold downs similar to yours

But if I use the table router, what you do with the chips which will fall on the router? 

In addition, since the cutting takes place underneath how do you apply lubricant on the cutter?


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

"But if I use the table router, what you do with the chips which will fall on the router? 
In addition, since the cutting takes place underneath how do you apply lubricant on the cutter"
******************************************All aluminum components in the picture link were chopped and machined with household routers. Drilling, tapping, done on slightly above average drill press.
Waste/pass on the router table is very modest, 3-5 mills/pass. However, the cuts are made in each direction of the sled. So the work passes the cutter and returns in a climb cut. A back and forth pass takes ~<4". So, in a minute, you can waste ~& up to an 1/8".
The thin chip is so gossamer it handily flies down the collector.
I do not use any lubrication, no wax, cutting oils etc, nada.
If a chip collects or sticks on a flute, the climbcut pulls the chip off before it can be a problem. A symbiosis on the router table. In my view, nearly a miracle.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Nicely said Pat, thanks so much for the help


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## Psychbiker (Jan 8, 2013)

saved for good info


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I love seeing your work, Pat! It's almost erotic...


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