# Workbench Top Input



## nickrochon (Feb 8, 2013)

After the purchase of numerous tools, and finally some wood, I built a 2x4 8 ft work bench for my basement. Nothing super fancy, something just to put against a wall. Pictures to follow. Here's where my dilemma comes in. I placed the 8 ft 2x4's in between the outer legs, instead of on top (amateur mistake :fie. Regardless, I'm still happy with how it turned out. Now that I am looking at what to make the top and shelf out of, I have realized I don't want to spend a ton of money on this thing. 

My idea is to take some 1x10 pine boards, glued and pocket screwed together to form the top, and breadboard the ends. With the top frame only having one cross support in the middle:

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Terrible drawing, but you get the idea. The top spans 30". Will 1x8 or 1x10 pine boards be strong enough for normal use? I won't be overhauling any transmissions or anything on it, just small assembly projects, clamping station, etc.


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## nickrochon (Feb 8, 2013)

Well, my drawing didn't work out. Basically, like this, but with only one middle support.


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## nickrochon (Feb 8, 2013)

Disregard my attempt at drawing that didn't work.










It looks like this, but only one center brace.


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

Hi Nick, do you have any photos of the table you could share? I can't quite picture what you're talking about, but would gladly provide my humble input if I had a better idea.

Welcome to the forum as well.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Hey Nick--i'm not a guru, but i've learned in the past year that the wider the pine, the more likely it is to cup. Cupping on a table top that you want to be flat may be counter-productive. And Brett's right, pictures would help if you can!!
earl


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

Solid-core interior doors seem popular as economical workbench tops. You really want something that will stay nice and flat over time, which you can't really rely on with wide pine boards.


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

From what you describe, make a credenza out of a sheet of 3/4 plywood. Baltic birch is nice but any 3/4 inch ply will work. Cover your working surface with 3/8" (actual desk) as a disposable work surface.

Good Luck - Baker


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Nick, I have 3- workbenches made of framing lumber - mostly 2x8's and all 3- are "decked" with 3/4" plywood and held-down with _frequently spaced_ SQUARE DRIVE Flat Head Screws. My workbenches get used by several people every day. Yeah, they get banged-up; but to me that seems to be the purpose of these workbenches. When they get too worn, it is a very simple matter to unbolt vises, back-out the screws and replace them and then their vises. DON'T USE GLUE, the often-spaced screws will be all you need. My workbenches have a few holes in them under things like miter saw and benchtop drill press - this makes clean-up much easier. I've used benches such as this for well over 20 years. If you utilize 1x lumber, you will most likely spend more money and be disappointed with the performance. My Dad acquired numerous GluLam beams and used pieces from 4 to 14 feet long to deck his benches - he wanted that "extra weight". His "decks" were about 5" thick. 
Good luck, Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Is there a cabinet or countertop shop nearby? You might get a laminate top that is damaged real cheap.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

As OPG says, framing lumber works fine. Mine is made from 2x4s. I can flatten and clean it up with a hand plane as it gets worn and dinged up. I finished it with a few coats of danish oil.

Or you can put a lip around the edge and use a piece of hardboard as a sacrificial top. when that gets worn out, pop it out and drop in a new piece of hardboard.


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## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

My bench came from a kit at Lowe's many years ago. It is made of 2x8 pine. Has stood up well but always annoyed that they are not even.

I saw a plan somewhere once where they took a sheet of MDF (split in half lengthwise by the BORG) then glued and screwed into a 1 1/2" slab. Smooth, heavy, cheap!


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## nickrochon (Feb 8, 2013)

Here's a couple pictures.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

hmmm

are the cross pieces only held to the legs by pocket screws? if so, i doubt that will last very long.

i don't know what you are planning on doing on the bench, but i think it should be much sturdier than it looks there. and if it is glued, for future reference, gluing the end grain of a board to anything is the weakest type of gluing there is. the absolute weakest is end grain to end grain.

if it were mine, and it really is just held together by pocket screws, then i would pull it apart and start over.


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## nickrochon (Feb 8, 2013)

I appreciated the criticism. Rather than take it apart, I can just add some supports right under where they are screwed together. Should be really easy, short pieces screwed to the legs. Nothing major. Will report back with more pictures.

Anyway, still not sure what to do with the top. I thought about doing a laminate, seems like they can be had from menards/lowes for $50 or so for an 8ft section. Doesn't seem like it would be useful for trying to clamp something to though?


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

ok. something like this would be really strong.

this is my bench. it's a little small because that is all the space i have right now. the top is just 2 sets of 2x4s edge glued. 

and how much time, money, and effort do you what to put into making a top that will give what you want?

and do you have a planer or hand plane?


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## nickrochon (Feb 8, 2013)

No planing tools here. I remember watching a video on youtube about using a router to obtain a flat surface though. can't remember where.


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## CaptainHook (Jan 30, 2013)

AndyL's input on solid core interior door is the way I went with 2 benches. One is 4 years old and had some pretty rough use, holding up well. I picked a damaged door up from a house under construction, they were going to pitch it. Might check any shops in your area.


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## nickrochon (Feb 8, 2013)

I decided to get 3/4" birch plywood, going to stain minwax gray with a gloss poly.

I will be modifying the table slightly, just going to shorten it up so it is indeed 8 ft instead of 8 ft plus 3" (2x4 on the ends). I will then make it so the top frame rests on top of the legs, not inside them. For each bottom cross piece, I will add 2x4 sections under the joints, similar to studs holding up a header beam.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

If it were me... and a work bench to take abuse. Overbuild it.

Add more cross bracing. Right now you are trying to span 4 foot.

It's a workbench. if you aren't doing any kind of structural joining techniques, then using fasteners such as lag bolts would be stronger... or as you said, brace it.

For the top... From what you said, a translation would be that you are putting boards across its length, then tying them together with a board perpendicular to each end? 

Exterior doors/good. Interior doors/not real strong across the center (just a honey comb of cardboard inside with a thin skin).

Ply or MDF/good if you brace it so it doesn't sag over time, but that goes for lots of other materials that thickness also.

If you wanted really flat, like you said, then laminated MDF would be flattest. Otherwise, planning a surface as you hinted could be done if you were doing a glueup or taking off a little off flat lumber.

Just my thoughts...


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

You can use regular 2x3's on edge glued together. It will look nicer if you plane the edges or saw them to get rid of the rounded part. You can make a very sturdy nice looking top for less than a sheet of plywood.


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## nickrochon (Feb 8, 2013)

Taking previous advice, I have disassembled the bench, and will be rebuilding. I'm glad I didn't finish it. It's ironic reading other threads where people say they build better each time they make something, I haven't even finished my first little project yet and am completely redoing it! I think it will work out better though. I'm sticking with 3/4" birch for the top and shelf, but will have more 3 braces in between the sides to keep it up. Shouldn't have an issues with sagging. Will post pictures this time as I build.

Any pictures or recommendations on how to finish or trim out the top to give it a nice edge? Was thinking poplar or aspen 1x2, maybe hitting it with a roundover bit and mitre the corners?


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

hey, no worries! i am on my 4th bench now, and have really only been at it a year now. i do think though, that this latest one will serve me well for a long time.


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## nickrochon (Feb 8, 2013)

Quick update with a couple pics. I had 2 finals last week so I didn't have time to get in the basement. I built a box frame for the top, and placed the legs under this time, feels much stronger. Bottom box frame to come next.


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## Rinker (Mar 25, 2012)

Just was reading my old e-mails as i have been out of the country. I made my assembly bench with 2x4 frame and used 3/4 plywood for the top. Just a rough piece as I covered it with hard board and left an over hang for clamping on three sides. One end I flushed up so I could run it pup against my table saw as I built it with the same finished height to act as an out feed table. I put a shelf at the bottom to store tools and put casters with swivel and wheel locks so give me some mobility as my shop is small and I need the mobility on all tools.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Nick; looking good! If you have no need to pass things right through between the legs at the back side, you might consider installing a lower rail from end to end. It'll add a lot of stability.


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