# Jasper Circle Jigs



## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Just received my set of Jasper Circle Jigs yesterday after a 2 day wait. :sarcastic: I bought the 200 and 400 as a set directly from Jasper which is much cheaper than buying them separately on Ebay or Amazon. I didn't spend a lot of time searching but I didn't see the set listed on either site.

Now I know some of Y'all have the Jasper jigs, but after buying I read some reviews stating the attach holes are very fragile and break out when attached to the router. I haven't taken them out of the package yet thinking maybe somebody has a solution to the problem. Other than that the jigs are very highly regarded and work very well for what they are designed to do from all indications.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ken

You don't want to bolt the router to it..they did have a error with drilling the holes to deep in the plastic and they will snap the plastic out very easy the key is to use a brass guide with them it that way all you need is drop the guide in the jig and cut the cir. out and the neat thing about it the cord will never wind up on you I did put a knob on the big one to make it easy-er to use, I just drop it in the hole and put my hand on the knob and one on the router and just pull the jig with the knob..
And yes I use the brass guide on both of them..


I did post some pictures and you can see them in my uploads but let me know and I will did them out for you if you want me to.

The small one is a bit tricky to drill out but it can be done without wiping out the jig. 

*add on* ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/30028-jasper-cir-jig.html

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Ken Bee said:


> Just received my set of Jasper Circle Jigs yesterday after a 2 day wait. :sarcastic: I bought the 200 and 400 as a set directly from Jasper which is much cheaper than buying them separately on Ebay or Amazon. I didn't spend a lot of time searching but I didn't see the set listed on either site.
> 
> Now I know some of Y'all have the Jasper jigs, but after buying I read some reviews stating the attach holes are very fragile and break out when attached to the router. I haven't taken them out of the package yet thinking maybe somebody has a solution to the problem. Other than that the jigs are very highly regarded and work very well for what they are designed to do from all indications.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

bump


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> HI Ken
> 
> You don't want to bolt the router to it..they did have a error with drilling the holes to deep in the plastic and they will snap the plastic out very easy the key is to use a brass guide with them it that way all you need is drop the guide in the jig and cut the cir. out and the neat thing about it the cord will never wind up on you I did put a knob on the big one to make it easy-er to use, I just drop it in the hole and put my hand on the knob and one on the router and just pull the jig with the knob..
> And yes I use the brass guide on both of them..
> ...


Hi Bob...Thanks for the response and the solution, but there is one problem with doing it the way you did. I don't have the tools to do it your way. 

I have a thought to fix the breakout problem that may seem a bit off the wall, but it seems like a viable solution. Why couldn't I fill the mounting holes with J-B Weld and re-drill them to accept a shallow head countersunk screw? Like I said it is just a thought.

As it is I use J-B Weld rather than glue on my jigs and fixtures as well as other things where glue may not hold for the long haul.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

JB weld is great stuff but I don't thing it will say Always a work around, I made a copy of it by using some 1/2" thick MDF and drilled the holes out right.

The screws that come with the Jasper are pan head type you can buy little steel inserts (ACE hardware) that are made to use flat counter sink screws in the type of hole to beef up the plate.. 

===



Ken Bee said:


> Hi Bob...Thanks for the response and the solution, but there is one problem with doing it the way you did. I don't have the tools to do it your way.
> 
> I have a thought to fix the breakout problem that may seem a bit off the wall, but it seems like a viable solution. Why couldn't I fill the mounting holes with J-B Weld and re-drill them to accept a shallow head countersunk screw? Like I said it is just a thought.
> 
> As it is I use J-B Weld rather than glue on my jigs and fixtures as well as other things where glue may not hold for the long haul.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ken
> 
> JB weld is great stuff but I don't thing it will say Always a work around, I made a copy of it by using some 1/2" thick MDF and drilled the holes out right.
> 
> ...


Hi Bob,

That was another solution that entered my mind, using some of this Lexan I have lying around my shop and re-drilling another using 3/8 inch Lexan. The reason I would use 3/8 is because I can get about as many 3/8 or less cut-offs as I want free, 1/2 I have to buy and it ain't cheap. The 400 or round jig would be the one I use more often since I am going head first into clock building once I get my clock wood surfaced and cut to workable dimensions.

I am leaning toward trying the J-B weld solution first and if that fails go to re-drilling the jig using the 3/8 Lexan.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Ken - I have the 400. I didn't want to lose the very small circle capability so I haven't drilled mine out as Bj suggested but I am VERY careful tightening the mounting screws. After all, it isn't going anywhere, just needs to be held in place. On most of my shop made one-of jigs, I use the bushing-in-the-hole method.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

I also wanted to keep the small hole capability,You will not lose small circle capability ,see below 

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fix...r-cir-jig.html

I will say I don't why Milescraft did't put in a 1/2" in the plate to start with after all a 1/2" hole is good as a 1/4" one to line up the plate on the router but what every with the 1/2" you can use the brass guide with 1/4" bit or a 3/8" bit for a quicker way to cut out the holes.. 
But it will still work with the 1/4" shaft router that many use by just using the clear plastic line up plate/ring and 1/4" dowel pin that comes with the jig for that job.

The way I did it, I made the white press in part then put the clear plastic part in place with the two small dowel pins to hold it on dead center and drilled the 1/4" hole out 1st. then drill the 1/2 hole next,just that quick I could use the brass guide with out any damage to the Jasper jig and it will work on any router that can take on the brass guides . 

Note+++be sure and clamp the plate to the drill press table top b/4 you drill the 1/4" out the 1/2" drill bit likes to move off to one side or off center when drilling out a 1/4" hole as you know but I'm sure you know that .  just a small tip  the 1/2" will come out right at the edge of the small line up hole but will not take it out..

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jschaben said:


> Hi Ken - I have the 400. I didn't want to lose the very small circle capability so I haven't drilled mine out as Bj suggested but I am VERY careful tightening the mounting screws. After all, it isn't going anywhere, just needs to be held in place. On most of my shop made one-of jigs, I use the bushing-in-the-hole method.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Hi Bob

I tried the JB Weld and it actually worked. I taped off the bottom and top of the mounting holes then used an exacto knife to cut the top hole out before adding the JB Weld. Once it set up I sanded it down with my Dremel Tool, removed the tape, drilled out the hole from the back of the jig with the exact drill size, turned it over, drilled the countersink just a tad below the jig surface and it is perfect. 

But, and there is always a but with me.  I used the wrong set of holes to re-drill. I used the holes for my Hitachi router which isn't a plunge router. I really didn't want to but I guess I will use the plunge base for my extra PC 892 router then use that as a permanent set-up with the circle jig. Considering the PC plunge base is brand new and never been on the router I wanted to sell it but never did get any bites on Ebay or this forum. I do very little hand held plunge routing and figured my Ridgid plunge router would always be sufficient for my uses. 

I can only hope my next try at filling and re-drilling the PC holes go as well as the first try.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey Ken

I knew you would try it 
That's great how about a snapshot I would love to see how it turned out and it would be a great tip for others that want to beef it up..fix the error b/4 they have a error with the jig.. 


===


Ken Bee said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> I tried the JB Weld and it actually worked. I taped off the bottom and top of the mounting holes then used an exacto knife to cut the top hole out before adding the JB Weld. Once it set up I sanded it down with my Dremel Tool, removed the tape, drilled out the hole from the back of the jig with the exact drill size, turned it over, drilled the countersink just a tad below the jig surface and it is perfect.
> 
> ...


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hey Ken
> 
> I knew you would try it
> That's great how about a snapshot I would love to see how it turned out and it would be a great tip for others that want to beef it up..fix the error b/4 they have a error with the jig..
> ...


Hi Bob,

And how did you know I would go ahead and try the JB Weld? Am I that predictable? 

I will get around to the picture some time today. I need to charge my camera battery because I haven't used it since Christmas. Secondly my shop is a mess right now because I am installing a new top on my workbench and trying to finish up my ski that I copied from you using the aluminum extrusion. For that I am very grateful you don't mind others taking your ideas and using for themselves. Thank You.


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> And how did you know I would go ahead and try the JB Weld? Am I that predictable?
> 
> I will get around to the picture some time today. I need to charge my camera battery because I haven't used it since Christmas. Secondly my shop is a mess right now because I am installing a new top on my workbench and trying to finish up my ski that I copied from you using the aluminum extrusion. For that I am very grateful you don't mind others taking your ideas and using for themselves. Thank You.


Ken,
Let's see some pictures of all of it, messy shop, skis, circle jig. It's all good, and will show productivity!:yes4:

d


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ken


hahahahahaha
" predictable? " = no ,it's just the way you said it, you had it in your mine set.

I also like seeing a mess, it can tell me more about the guy than a nice clean shop..how they work and they think in general.. 
It's not a big deal but it's nice to know who you are talking with.
==


Ken Bee said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> And how did you know I would go ahead and try the JB Weld? Am I that predictable?
> 
> I will get around to the picture some time today. I need to charge my camera battery because I haven't used it since Christmas. Secondly my shop is a mess right now because I am installing a new top on my workbench and trying to finish up my ski that I copied from you using the aluminum extrusion. For that I am very grateful you don't mind others taking your ideas and using for themselves. Thank You.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> HI Ken
> 
> 
> hahahahahaha
> ...


Hi Bob,

To begin with I hate to show you my messy shop which I just a few minutes ago made a worse mess. I spilled a full drawer of screws, nuts and other assorted junk all over the floor that will show you how coordinated I am at times.  To be honest with you my shop is so small I try to keep everything organized most of the time. If I use a tool as soon as I am finished with it I put it back where it belongs and immediately vacuum up the mess I made. Right now the only thing in my shop that is a mess is all my wood. I have been trying to sort it out and re-stack it by size, but something always comes up to interfere with that project it seems. Also my shop is a converted sun room attached to the house and still has some furniture in it that takes up a third of the floor space and I can't talk my wife into getting rid of it so I do the best I can with what I have to work with.

Anyhow here are the pics of the Circle jig I modified, the ski that still needs a little work and the mess I made. The countersinks on the circle jig are a little rough yet and it really isn't important because I have to do the holes for the PC plunge base now that we know the JB Weld works. After I spilled that drawer of stuff I turned the air blue in the shop and closed it down for the day so that project can wait until tomorrow.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ken

Thanks for the feed back, that's a good fix and cheap too..I'm sure others will do the same as you..good job bud 

==



Ken Bee said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> To begin with I hate to show you my messy shop which I just a few minutes ago made a worse mess. I spilled a full drawer of screws, nuts and other assorted junk all over the floor that will show you how coordinated I am at times.  To be honest with you my shop is so small I try to keep everything organized most of the time. If I use a tool as soon as I am finished with it I put it back where it belongs and immediately vacuum up the mess I made. Right now the only thing in my shop that is a mess is all my wood. I have been trying to sort it out and re-stack it by size, but something always comes up to interfere with that project it seems. Also my shop is a converted sun room attached to the house and still has some furniture in it that takes up a third of the floor space and I can't talk my wife into getting rid of it so I do the best I can with what I have to work with.
> 
> Anyhow here are the pics of the Circle jig I modified, the ski that still needs a little work and the mess I made. The countersinks on the circle jig are a little rough yet and it really isn't important because I have to do the holes for the PC plunge base now that we know the JB Weld works. After I spilled that drawer of stuff I turned the air blue in the shop and closed it down for the day so that project can wait until tomorrow.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> HI Ken
> 
> Thanks for the feed back, that's a good fix and cheap too..I'm sure others will do the same as you..good job bud
> 
> ==


Bob

As usual a very heartfelt thank you. 

I have been using J-B Weld for several years now, the first use was on temporary one time flight aircraft fixes in Vietnam. J-B weld and 200 MPH tape (Duct Tape) are a staple in my shop and auto tool box. Much of my woodworking skill is directly related to my years as an aircraft air frame mechanic. J-B Weld can be formed into almost any shape as it sets up and will adhere to most anything. The main use around the shop is welding threaded rod and threaded inserts to knobs for my jigs and fixtures. Two things I am going to start doing now that I have a drill press is making knobs from wood and golf balls. Wood for knobs that turn and golf balls for knobs that push/pull.

Note: In case you wonder about the 200 MPH name for Duct Tape it comes from Vietnam. We used Duct tape to cover bullet and shrapnel holes on aircraft skin until the holes got a permanent fix. The tape would stay in place at over 200 MPH, hence the 200 MPH designation. 

Now I'm off to clean up that mess I made in my shop.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Bob,

The 3 holes I filled with JB Weld in the circle jig for the Hitachi router are the same holes the PC 892 plunge base uses. I also changed the Milwaukee router on my ski to the Hitachi because the height adjustment on the Hitachi is much easier to adjust and once again the mounting holes are the same. Now I am going to try a different approach to beefing up the Circle jig holes. I am going to fill only one of the holes with JB Weld, back drill it with a 1/16th bit and then use a 1/4 Forstner Bit just deep enough to clear a flat head screw below the surface of the jig then enlarge the 1/16th hole. If that works I will post pics of it also.

Another thing, as I said the PC plunge base was new and had never been on the motor. I took it out of the case and put it on the motor to use for the circle jig. Now I don't do much plunge routing, but I am here to tell you the plunge action on the PC router is so much better than ANY router I have ever tried. I thought the Ridgid was smooth, but the PC works like it is greased with minimal effort and the lock is easy to access as well. All in all not a bad $70.00 investment for a nearly $300.00 PC 895 kit I would say.

Getting back to the ski and the router. I bought a 2-1/4 diameter PC Drawer Lock Bit that has a 1/2 inch shank to surface my small boards with. There is something about the bit that has me concerned and thought maybe you could help. The shank is very short, not quite 1-1/2 inches and falls all the way down in the collet to the bit base. Unlike most bits it doesn't have a taper at the base and it seems to lock in the collet OK but should I still back it out and use an O-Ring against the base then let the O-Ring go down to the collet leaving only a tad over 1 inch for the collet to grab? I have had bits back out of a collet before, but they were small and this Drawer Lock bit is a monster so if it lets loose could cause some major damage. Your expertise in this matter would be greatly appreciated.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ken

The O-Ring will do the trick, it will stay in place and you are just going down 1/8" to 3/16" max for the plane job I'm sure, just run it at 8,000 to 10.000 rpm's and it will do a fine job. 

Looking forward to the pictures on the Jasper ..


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Ken Bee said:


> Bob,
> 
> The 3 holes I filled with JB Weld in the circle jig for the Hitachi router are the same holes the PC 892 plunge base uses. I also changed the Milwaukee router on my ski to the Hitachi because the height adjustment on the Hitachi is much easier to adjust and once again the mounting holes are the same. Now I am going to try a different approach to beefing up the Circle jig holes. I am going to fill only one of the holes with JB Weld, back drill it with a 1/16th bit and then use a 1/4 Forstner Bit just deep enough to clear a flat head screw below the surface of the jig then enlarge the 1/16th hole. If that works I will post pics of it also.
> 
> ...


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Hi Bob,

As I stated in another post I filled in the holes for my PC Plunge Base in the Jasper 200 jig yesterday and am going to try the forstner bit for those 3 holes. I will post pics tomorrow (Monday) if it works as well as the countersink idea did. If it doesn't I will also use the countersink fix in those holes too.

Also thanks for the input on the PC Drawer Lock bit that had me concerned from a safety standpoint.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

No need to be concerned with the big bit you can always use a smaller one at 1st.that will help you get the feel of it but I'm all most sure you will pop in the big one..real quick..

==



Ken Bee said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> As I stated in another post I filled in the holes for my PC Plunge Base in the Jasper 200 jig yesterday and am going to try the forstner bit for those 3 holes. I will post pics tomorrow (Monday) if it works as well as the countersink idea did. If it doesn't I will also use the countersink fix in those holes too.
> 
> Also thanks for the input on the PC Drawer Lock bit that had me concerned from a safety standpoint.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Hi Bob,

Rather than hi-jack the Edge Guide thread any further I will ask in this thread. You said something about having to add some things to the PC base plate to make the Jasper Circle Jig work correctly if I understood your post in the Edge Guide thread that I copied to this post. I did attach the 400 with the countersunk holes and centered it to the PC 892 base, but didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I didn't try cutting a hole with it though because the other holes I filled with JB weld are not finished yet. I will be using the 200 jig most of the time to cut holes for my clock inserts that are 3 inches or larger, anything smaller I can use a Forstner Bit. 

Now then, what needs to be added to the PC base to make the Jasper jig work right? 

****************************************************************

Hi Ken

It's hard to beat the Jasper ..
The knob is just a quick way to turn the Jasper once the router is in the pivot hole via. the brass guide, the 200 can be used for small hole also but the 400 is best for the real small ones... The PC setup is ok but it's a little be lame because you need to add some items to the base plate in order to get it to work right.. I must have about 10 or 15 cir.jigs and the Jasper is the best one I have I have one or two like Harry's and it's little bit hard to use for me..a hole is just a simple thing to do with the router no need to make it into a hard job..with knobs and rods and screws when a simple 1/8" pin will do the job quick and easy...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

" Forstner Bits" are great but some times you can't get the part in the right place in the drill press that's when the Jasper comes into play..i.e cable hole in a computer desk..etc.some will say just use a hole saw for that type of job, the hole saw is for some one who doesn't care what the hole looks like on the bottom side of the hole,they do like to rip the stock when they cut out of the hole..

The items that I was talking about are for the PC edge guide no need to add anything to the Jasper and the PC router..


==






Ken Bee said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> Rather than hi-jack the Edge Guide thread any further I will ask in this thread. You said something about having to add some things to the PC base plate to make the Jasper Circle Jig work correctly if I understood your post in the Edge Guide thread that I copied to this post. I did attach the 400 with the countersunk holes and centered it to the PC 892 base, but didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I didn't try cutting a hole with it though because the other holes I filled with JB weld are not finished yet. I will be using the 200 jig most of the time to cut holes for my clock inserts that are 3 inches or larger, anything smaller I can use a Forstner Bit.
> 
> ...


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ken
> 
> " Forstner Bits" are great but some times you can't get the part in the right place in the drill press that's when the Jasper comes into play..i.e cable hole in a computer desk..etc.some will say just use a hole saw for that type of job, the hole saw is for some one who doesn't care what the hole looks like on the bottom side of the hole,they do like to rip the stock when they cut out of the hole..
> 
> ...


When I said I was going to use a forstner bit to clean out the JB weld on the circle jig that is the purpose of the 1/16th pilot hole. I always drill a pilot hole to locate the Forstner bit correctly. Believe it or not I don't even own a Hole Saw. I have used them before and to me they are a major PITA.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

" major PITA ' = hahahahahahahaha I do like holes saws for many jobs I must have about 100 of them from a 3/8" to the 6" one,, I use them all the time..

" to clean out the JB weld " got you 

===



Ken Bee said:


> When I said I was going to use a forstner bit to clean out the JB weld on the circle jig that is the purpose of the 1/16th pilot hole. I always drill a pilot hole to locate the Forstner bit correctly. Believe it or not I don't even own a Hole Saw. I have used them before and to me they are a major PITA.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ken
> 
> " major PITA ' = hahahahahahahaha I do like holes saws for many jobs I must have about 100 of them from a 3/8" to the 6" one,, I use them all the time..
> 
> ...


Hi Bob,

Well its back to the drawing board with the JB Weld and the Forstner bit idea.  It came out of two of the holes so it looks as if the way to go is the countersink method. Which if you think about it the countersink method does beef up the hole much better by leaving more JB Weld in the hole to seat the screw.

As far hole saws go at one time I had thought about buying a 3 inch saw to cut out a few disks to use as wedges for my planer and ski. I have since worked out a way to hold the stock with straight and tapered wedges. Not only that I can now cut out circular disks with my Circle Jig if needed.


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