# Dado near the edge



## nailgun (Nov 18, 2008)

sounds like a band name 

ok, i searched with different phrases, and read through over 15 pages of posts, and cannot find the answer, so please help...

im building a speaker box out of 3/4 mdf, and have all the pieces cut, ready for dados to join them. i want to make stopped dados, and since the dado will be 1/4 inch from the edge, i do not know how to use the system that many have described here (two straightedges and the router between them) since one of the straightedges will be way too far off of the edge of the workpiece. do i explain it correctly?

thanks for your help!
nailgun


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

it sounds to me like a job for a router table and fence. im sure bobj could make a jig with a 3/4 inch slot and a template guide. you would need to have a piece the same thickness beside it to keep the jig level. all of this would need to be secured by clamps. im just thinking out loud. im pretty much a novice myself.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI nailgun

MDF is not the wood to use  if you put the dado slot that near the edge it will just snap off if you just touch it...
A 1/2" rabbit maybe the way to go, but it's not a blind joint or just use some biscuits and a butt joint.. 

MDF is strange stuff 
I would suggest using 45 deg.cuts on all the ends,,then you will have a 1 1/4" wide glue joint and nice clean corners ...


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nailgun said:


> sounds like a band name
> 
> ok, i searched with different phrases, and read through over 15 pages of posts, and cannot find the answer, so please help...
> 
> ...


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

i wondered about that bobj. i made some drawers out of select pine and trie to use Norms method of the dado for the rear of the drawer. like you said the small remaining piece of wood wanted to snap off.

ps... after that i decided on a rabbit and glue and nails.


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## nailgun (Nov 18, 2008)

thanks for the replies! 

most people build speaker cabs with mdf...usually with a plywood baffle to mount the speaker(s) on. and the three that i have taken apart were assembled with dados. 

i DO like your idea of mitering all the corners, but i want the top and bottom to extend over the sides and the baffle needs to be solidly connected to the top, bottom, sides. 
i have attached a pic of what i have done so far.

the little space above the baffle (red plywood) won't be there, just a rough cut so far. the baffle is salvaged from an old two speaker baffle. i still need to square it up.

sooo. i need to have the baffle inserted into dados in the top, bottom, sides. does it make it a little clearer...i really want to get this right. i have a 3/4 straight cutter, and a milescraft circle/edge guide (that i have never used) so maybe i should just chuck it up and hope 3/4 is 3/4? i dont have a mic (well i sing through a mic  ) so i cant really check that way.

the best way i see doing it is: straightedge on one side, put a piece of mdf standing up against that straightedge plus width of router baseplate and another straightedge. maybe i can just butt up another piece of mdf near the edge to extend the area that the straightedge/router will be on?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI nailgun

You are right many use mdf,, my son works for Car Toys and what they do is rip a 2 x 4 ,2 x 2 on a 45, and glue and nail in the support 45 deg.blocks in place, then coat the inside with white silicone hvy.paint to seal all the joints and to keep the mdf from flexing..and breaking the joints free..


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nailgun said:


> thanks for the replies!
> 
> most people build speaker cabs with mdf...usually with a plywood baffle to mount the speaker(s) on. and the three that i have taken apart were assembled with dados.
> 
> ...


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## nailgun (Nov 18, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI nailgun
> 
> You are right many use mdf,, my son works for Car Toys and what they do is rip a 2 x 4 ,2 x 2 on a 45, and glue and nail in the support 45 deg.blocks in place, then coat the inside with white silicone hvy.paint to seal all the joints and to keep the mdf from flexing..and breaking the joints free..
> 
> ...


thanks again bobj

still is the problem of getting the baffle mounted inside the box (the red piece of wood in the pic, with a hole cut out)
thats where i would still need dados, even if i did the corners the way you described (dont really want to, since i want the overhangs that you see on top and bottom). but thats another thing altogether. either way i need to mount the baffle.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Glue and screw some strips on the inside, then attach the baffle to those.


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