# Router Plans



## erios49231 (Mar 17, 2010)

Hello everyone,

I would like to build my first router table, any body have a set of plans? 

Thanks

Ed


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## Eusibius2 (Feb 25, 2010)

erios49231 said:


> Hello everyone,
> 
> I would like to build my first router table, any body have a set of plans?
> 
> ...


Something like this? I used an old bathroom sink cabinet (24" wide), threw away the countertop and built a base, new top, and fence out of 3/4" MDF. If you like, I'll send more info.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just one place to get free plans

Router Tables free plans, plus
Thanks to Dave (Dr.Zook) and Scott (Gap_308) for the great links
Woodworking Plans, Projects, Patterns and Resourceful Information
http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/resources/index.php?search=table router free&page=7

=====


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## ml3456 (Mar 26, 2010)

Is a 24" wide table too narrow? Many are 32" or more!! Trying to use what I have on hand right know.

Thanks, ML


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Hello ML. Welcome to the RouterForums. Glad you joined.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

ML... a 24" table will work *just* fine... Router table width primarily aids in supporting the infeed and outfeed stock. The extra length just makes it a little easier with longer stock. A storter table is more convenient for shorter stock. It's a never-ending tradeoff, where I've seen tables over 8' wide. It depends on what you're going to use it for an how much. If it's *normal* use was to cut house molding, one that is 16' wide and 12-18" deep might be best. If however you're going to be wanting to cut 16" wide dovetails (ala Incra fence) then the width doesn't matter much but a 32-50" depth is paramount.


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## ml3456 (Mar 26, 2010)

Thanks Jim. The largest thing will probably be some door parts, but I will probably use it as a joiner also and some of the pieces can be 2-4' long. Thanks for your advice. Mark


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

ml3456 said:


> Thanks Jim. The largest thing will probably be some door parts, but I will probably use it as a joiner also and some of the pieces can be 2-4' long. Thanks for your advice. Mark


ML.. I might add I've done some 8/4 x 8" x 8' hard maple routing on my 30" wide table w/o problems... Yes, wider makes it easier but don't let yourself get obsessed with width.


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## erios49231 (Mar 17, 2010)

Yes I'm interested please send me more info.


Thanks


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## mcdonelldj (Apr 14, 2010)

I was also looking at building a router table and the one on the New Yankee Workshop looks like a winner. The plans and DVD are $24.95 or they have just the measured drawing for about $10. Has anyone made this one?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

My 24" wide table is just a tad too wide to bend over for long periods. But, I find the smaller OakPark table at 16" too small for larger projects. My table is 48" long which is too long but I have two routers mounted which is excellent for multi-step processes.

As for structure to support the top, one fellow has used a couple of 2x4s to prop the table top up against a wall. 

Hey Mark:

I searched for "ugliest router table" and got nothing. Has the thread been removed for some reason?


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## Eusibius2 (Feb 25, 2010)

allthunbs said:


> My 24" wide table is just a tad too wide to bend over for long periods. But, I find the smaller OakPark table at 16" too small for larger projects. My table is 48" long which is too long but I have two routers mounted which is excellent for multi-step processes.
> 
> As for structure to support the top, one fellow has used a couple of 2x4s to prop the table top up against a wall.
> 
> ...


When you say "24" wide is too wide | 16" is too small" are you talking about the depth from front to back? If so, wouldn't it make more of a difference where the router is mounted on the table rather than how deep your top is?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Eusibius2 said:


> When you say "24" wide is too wide | 16" is too small" are you talking about the depth from front to back? If so, wouldn't it make more of a difference where the router is mounted on the table rather than how deep your top is?


My table is 24" x 48" x 36" tall. The 36" is perfect (I'm 5'10") The 24" is too much and 16" is too small. Because of the way my table top is supported I couldn't position it closer to one side or the other. Several things dictate positioning. I use clamp on fences so I need >2" of clamping space on the sides and 1 1/2" on the ends. Add 1 1/2" all around for the 2x4 supporting rails and then you have to locate the baseplate so it doesn't hit the supporting rails and keep the handles of the router far enough from the support rails to be able to easily remove the router. I did another mistake. I mounted the OakPark 11" square baseplates on the diagonal. I won't do that one again. My table also has the ability to mount two routers. I do architectural detailing so multiple routers is very handy.

Now, depending on how you've designed your table, you may want to position the baseplate off centre. In my case, centring was important since I would run stock through one router than turn it around and run it through the other router.

Then, there is the incremental base plate.


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## Paul Melanson (May 2, 2010)

I like you idea could you give the details


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Hello Paul. Welcome to the RouterForums. Glad to have you as part of our community.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

[email protected] said:


> I like you idea could you give the details


Hi Paul:

Here's some pictures. Let me know what else you need.


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## de_schwartz (Apr 25, 2010)

wow, you guys make some amazing things...would love to tackle this myself instead of buying one from the store.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

de_schwartz said:


> wow, you guys make some amazing things...would love to tackle this myself instead of buying one from the store.


Hi Chris:

The "chassis" is four pieces of scrap 2x4, lap jointed. The "legs" are 4 pieces of 2x4 joined (doweled, sliding dovetail, nails, whatever) to an upper frame. ("L" shape legs are more stable and 4 more pieces of 2x4.) An MDF top (> 3/4" thick) is put on top of that. I use casters and locks (in the pictures, above) so they need to be attached. I also used a plastic laminate on the top only. This top was an experiment so I didn't do both sides. On a long term use top, I'll laminate both sides and all edges of the top.

Things I wouldn't do:

1. don't mount the baseplates diagonally. 

2. I prefer "L" shaped legs now, only because I'm thinking of a larger (3'x4') top for skis. I'm also thinking of a duplicator and a router lathe which will require different tops. 

3. My height is perfect (36") for me (5'10") but I've tried other heights and I wouldn't want to go back to them. My determining factor is to lean over to look at the top of the bit. How far am I leaning and can I stay that way for 10-15 minutes?

4. One of the down sides of this design are the supporting rails for the top. Ideal when a bit comes loose but not fun when you're wanting to get the baseplate close to the edge.

5. Be prepared to build multiple fences. I have short low (2" high), short high (10"-15"), long low (52" x 2"), plastic (UHMW) (optional). My fences are solid sugar maple, UHMW, plywood and my "garbage" fences are 2x4s freshly jointed. I just keep on straightening them out until there's not much left to joint or they get too weak to support pushing stuff past the bit.

Everything else is purely optional and dependent on your adventurous spirit.


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## juststarting (Jan 13, 2009)

That turned out pretty neat. I'm in the western suburbs of Chicago. also. Would appreciate if you could send me any drawings for that setup, I would reimburse your for any costs incurred. Thanks


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## juststarting (Jan 13, 2009)

Please disregard my above reply, I was trying to replay to another post.


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## crafty Dale (Nov 11, 2005)

yeah I'd like to see more...as i'm a newbie to routing myself and would Love to make my own Router table...and being on disabilty doesn't help me any cause i don't really have the $$$ for an expensive table so i have go cheap..Sorry


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## Eusibius2 (Feb 25, 2010)

*Router Table Plans*

Hi all, 

I've included some early plans that I used to estimate all the parts for my table setup. I've since made some slight changes, mostly to the fence, so I'm also including the sketchup file of my most current fence plans. I'm just too lazy to redo the PDF file.

Although the cut-list that's included looks like I'm using exotic woods, I'm really not. I chose them in sketchup because I like the colors they render, and really show the different types. Plus they closely resemble what I'm using. What am I using??? 3/4" MDF and stock 1/2" birch ply from Home Depot. Nothing special. Some 2x4's for bracing on the fence. Some 'white-wood' 1x for the face frame (I had this laying around at home). The cut-list spreadsheet lists the components pretty accurately as far as materials, but the layouts are wrong. Also, my 'Other Parts' list has changed a bit, mostly in brand / type of t-track. After I made this list, I went shopping and found better deals elsewhere, so I'm actually using mostly Rockler t-track and knobs.


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## 1024 (Jun 8, 2010)

Interesting topic, something I want to Making and me


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## david cooksey (Jun 3, 2011)

My main Router Table top is 36" wide and 18" deep
made from Birch Plywood w/ a Rockler Router Table Plates
installed.

Dave


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## Funwitwood (Sep 8, 2011)

I have a Harbor Freight router table that was under $100 and I hope that I can learn from using it enough to know what I really need in a router table. Then I also hope to build one for myself.


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