# Drill press laser device



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

For people with reduced vision adding one of the aftermarket laser devices to their drill press may help. While the laser lines do not photograph well I can assure you that they are quite bright even with the work light focused on the tiny hole they are centered on. This could also save on set up time for everyone.

How many of you have/use the drill press laser devices?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike I'd love to have a laser on my drill press . I didn't know they made aftermarket systems, and wonder if it will fit that beast of mine ?


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

@Mike

I've looked at them in the store but no experience. 

Can you mention the manufacturer in your photo? Comments regarding difficulty to set them up, stability of the image over time etc will be appreciated.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

turned them or removed them all together...


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

aftermarket 
DRILL PRESS LASER GUIDE BY PEACHTREE WOODWORKING PW929


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## FreeTime (Dec 2, 2012)

Have one (buit in), used it a couple times, don't trust it - it comes close but not totally accurate. it varies with the thickness of the wood, position of the table


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Thanks John . Looks like it will fit mine no problem , at least I believe so anyways now that I see how it works.
I always wondered how they project a laser when the chucks in the way , but now I understand how they pulled it off by using two lasers mounted off to the side 

http://www.amazon.com/DRILL-PRESS-L...p/B003UO9XWE/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Rick, the model I installed is from Peachtree and I am sure it would work on your drill press. It came with two different sized clamps so it could fit different machines.

Jon, it took about 30 minutes to get the lasers dialed in. There are two adjustments on each laser and it is easy for one adjustment to drift while adjusting the other.

Mark, I wonder if the beam direction and angle are fully adjustable on your drill press? Could you please post a photo of the laser housing? This is a learning experience for all of us. If the location varies at different table heights I suspect the beam angle is not perfectly vertical.

I will get a couple of close up photos of the right laser head showing how the adjustments are made and the alignment tool.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

FreeTime said:


> Have one (buit in), used it a couple times, don't trust it - it comes close but not totally accurate. it varies with the thickness of the wood, position of the table


Ok I never thought it going out of alignment when you change the table height . 
That would certainly be a deal breaker


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Mike said:


> Rick, the model I installed is from Peachtree and I am sure it would work on your drill press. It came with two different sized clamps so it could fit different machines.
> 
> Jon, it took about 30 minutes to get the lasers dialed in. There are two adjustments on each laser and it is easy for one adjustment to drift while adjusting the other.
> 
> ...


According to the photo that you showed Mike they can't possibly be shining vertically. They are about 3 " to either side. Since there is parallax involved you would have to do as Mark said and refocus every time you moved the table up or down. If it takes 30 minutes every time you do that it would be a terrible PITA.


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

My Porter Cable DP has one, but I rarely use it. I believe that its accuracy is sensitive to table height, but I've never bothered to verify that. Bottom line is that I just don't trust it for anything but coarse positioning so it mainly stays off.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TheCableGuy said:


> Ok I never thought it going out of alignment when you change the table height .
> That would certainly be a deal breaker


and the width of the laser line changes too along w/ the sharpness of the line because of the focal length..


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

I have a pair on my drill press and after a few uses I found it was a hassle to keep readjusting them whenever the table was moved so I haven't used them in a long while. Perhaps if I was doing something where I was making a lot of similar parts with one setup they might be handy, but for day to day drilling I don't use them.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Chuck, you are right about the parallax. The best explanation I can give is as the laser is projected there is a line visible on the table. The top adjustment will rotate the beam in a circular direction like around the face of a clock.(Beam direction) The bottom adjustment determines what angle the light is presented to the table surface.(Angle direction)

As an exaggeration if the laser is directed to the table at a 45º angle you will still see the line and it can be adjusted to cross a centering point. This location will change with the table height. It can't just be vertical from the lens because of the offset.(Parallax)

There is an alignment tool that you put in the chuck. It has a flat surface which is faced towards the support post of the drill press. This tool has a centerline running vertically. You adjust the angle direction to follow this centerline. The result is a line that is projected across the center point which does not change with table height. In effect this is a true vertical line. The set up process is done by covering one laser with tape and adjusting the other; then you switch the tape to adjust the other laser.

This is a situation where photos easily illustrate the problem and the solution but it is tough to put into words. During set up my exaggeration is exactly what happened for me. It took me 30 minutes to get both lasers properly adjusted. Did my explanation make any sense to you?


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## FreeTime (Dec 2, 2012)

Mike said:


> Mark, I wonder if the beam direction and angle are fully adjustable on your drill press? Could you please post a photo of the laser housing? This is a learning experience for all of us. If the location varies at different table heights I suspect the beam angle is not perfectly vertical.
> 
> I will get a couple of close up photos of the right laser head showing how the adjustments are made and the alignment tool.


Its a Ryobi bench top model DP. As far as I know, not adjustable - maybe I need to read the manual. I agree with with Stick, the line width is sometimes self-defeating on the smaller holes. The laser crosses the table NW/SE and NE/SW. Maybe the bolt-on units are better.


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

I have the Peachtree laser and it works perfectly. It has been in use for three years and has not needed readjustment yet. Table height doesn't change the accuracy at all.
The most important thing in my opinion has been to just install, adjust according to the instructions, and, most importantly, don't try to analyze how or why it works!


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## Goodsoil (Feb 3, 2015)

Mike the one you have looks exactly like the one that came on my Delta drill press except for the colour. Mine is black. I removed it a couple of years ago as I did not trust it. Recently reinstalled it but have it set for a table height I use frequently. I do not use it for one of jobs where the table height is changed where I had set and adjusted the lasers.


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## adot45 (Feb 6, 2013)

My drill press came with the laser device and although I don't use it all that much, I will be using it to drill the 52 holes in each of the 10 bases of those wine basket frames that I'm doing for my basket weaving friend. Not difficult at all to set up and in this case, where no height adjustments will be made, it's worthwhile. I'll also use a fence for distance "in" from the edge but the laser will help with the spacing between holes. It's a guide, if you don't like it, don't use it. Mine has a dial for x and a dial for y setting....I put a bit in the DP and set it about a 1/4" above the work piece and then set the laser(s) where the bit will make the hole....if it took more than a minute to do this I'd be surprised.


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## woodcurls (May 11, 2011)

*Drill Press Laser*

I have been using an the aftermarket drill press laser for two years and have not had a problem with it. the key is to adjust it to the direction of the manufacturer. I like mine.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

My drill Delta press came with the lasers. Adjusting them was very difficult, so I don't use them. Maybe I should re-read the alignment instructions and try again.

Charley


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

I have the Ryobi and I don't trust it . The problem I see with how these are set up they do have parallax because they shoot from the side at an angle and project a line at about 45% angle so any adjustment to the table would change where they cross. If you could run the table all the way to the floor would the laser lines even hit the table?

If one was mounted at the center front of the head and projected a line running to the center of the column and the other one was mounted on the side of the head 90% to the column/bit line and projected a line through the center of the bit then it should take care of any parallax but the width of the line would vary with height adjustments but not where the lines cross.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It would seem to me , without trying it, that a person might be better off with a rifle laser bore sight tool. Inset the bore sight, position your piece and clamp it, remove the bore sight and insert a drill bit.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

The paralax is not at the table where it interrupts the lasers..it is an imaginary line where the two fan lasers intersect vertically...at the bit center...that's why table height doesnt affect it if adjusted properly...

Take your hands, fingers spread out straight and in front of you...now intertwine your fingers...viola...

Better yet...for those of you that have it, turn it on and blow smoke at it...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I'm having trouble visualizing that Nick. I know that principle of all the rangefinders I'm familiar with are based on measuring the angle of parallax. The line vertical through the chuck would be the fixed line and the distance from there to the laser would be the base of the angle with the line from the laser being variable as the distance changes.


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

I just bought the Peachtree laser that was shown. I sort of got it adjusted. I think my problem is that my table is not exactly 90 deg to the column. The X is slightly behind where it should be. So I am going to try to shim it to move the bottom outward a bit. As far as parallax...in my minimal use so far I have no noticed any problems with having to refocus. Of course I do not see very well, so maybe I am just not seeing it. I am thinking though that once you have an initial setup, any refocusing will take seconds rather than minutes.



Gary


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Gary, no shims are needed. This is the bottom adjustment that is off in your situation.


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

I will look for that...must have missed it. Thanks Mike !!!


Gary


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Gary; take a piece of coathanger wire. Bend it into a 'Z' shape with the outer vertical leg out about 8" from the vertical of your chuck. Lock it into the chuck and raise/lower the quill till the wire just touches the table. rotate the quill by hand.., the wire tip should _just_ touch everywhere on the circle it scribes.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I got permission today to share this photo of the Wixey drill press digital depth gauge I am Beta testing. This is not available for sale at this time.

For drill presses like my Delta 12" bench top model that do not have a depth stop rod a bracket attaches to the quill with a stainless steel band clamp. For models with a depth stop rod a different bracket is included that attaches to the rod. The unit mounts to the drill motor housing by drilling two small holes 3/8" deep with the included drill bit. Two self tapping hex head screws attach the bracket. I made no modifications so far, just bolted it on to test the operation.

I am going to modify the set up and will take detailed photos of the process. This is presented as an FYI about a new product that may become available in the future. Barry Wixey will be looking in to see your comments about this.


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

DaninVan said:


> Gary; take a piece of coathanger wire. Bend it into a 'Z' shape with the outer vertical leg out about 8" from the vertical of your chuck. Lock it into the chuck and raise/lower the quill till the wire just touches the table. rotate the quill by hand.., the wire tip should _just_ touch everywhere on the circle it scribes.


That is a great idea. Thanks ! My problem is that due to Macular Degeneration I have no center vision in one eye...so very little depth perception. I notice it the most on the drill press if I am trying to accurately drill a hole. That is why I wanted the laser guide. Not so much for extreme precision like on a printed circuit board, but to just get past extreme imprecision lol 

To give you an idea. One of my current pjects is a benchtop buffer. On the base I wanted to have the bolts inset so they didn't rub on the workbench. I drilled the 5/8" holes first, then using a forstner bit...biggest I had was trying to center that over the hole I had drilled. I came pretty close to totally missing on about 1/2 of the 8 holes.  Even though I had tried to line it up from 2 sight lines. I think your suggestion would have worked well.


Gary


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I'm having trouble visualizing that Nick. I know that principle of all the rangefinders I'm familiar with are based on measuring the angle of parallax. The line vertical through the chuck would be the fixed line and the distance from there to the laser would be the base of the angle with the line from the laser being variable as the distance changes.


Exactly right, Charles...but in this case the laser is not a single dot. The lens on the laser spreads it out in a line like the cheapie laser levels used indoors for hanging or dropped ceilings. Since the light is spread out the spot where the lasers meet will be a straight line up the center of the chuck (z axis) assuming left right up down is aligned... Like two triangles coming together at their base from two different directions.

Did i say this right...?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Ok I think I'm starting to see it. If the lines are perfectly aligned to the Z axis then they will always cross at the Z axis. It's similar to what Mike (MEBCWD) said except that they don't really have to have 90* separation to work. 45* separation would still do it just as well. The only two angles you couldn't have them at is 0*/360* or 180* because that would put both beams in exactly the same plane.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Ok I think I'm starting to see it. If the lines are perfectly aligned to the Z axis then they will always cross at the Z axis. It's similar to what Mike (MEBCWD) said except that they don't really have to have 90* separation to work. 45* separation would still do it just as well. The only two angles you couldn't have them at is 0*/360* or 180* because that would put both beams in exactly the same plane.


This is over my head but as I went threw all the posts and if I'm reading it right then it can stay centered if the alignments done right in the first place.
I'm going to order one as I really have issues seeing where the bits going to contact .
If you do have to reset it on a differant height it may not be the end of the world, as I can always use it at one specific height and then shut it off in other situations .
I'm still really liking the concept .

Oh and of course I can't source it in Canada . Not on Amazon.ca or LV . Go figure 
I sure envy you guys in the US somedays , as there ain't nothing you cannot get with the greatest of ease . Ok , maybe not so much for ScottArt lol


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Ok I think I'm starting to see it. If the lines are perfectly aligned to the Z axis then they will always cross at the Z axis. It's similar to what Mike (MEBCWD) said except that they don't really have to have 90* separation to work. 45* separation would still do it just as well. The only two angles you couldn't have them at is 0*/360* or 180* because that would put both beams in exactly the same plane.


Yup...that's my story and I'm sticking to it...


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## Murtu01 (Mar 9, 2014)

FreeTime said:


> Have one (buit in), used it a couple times, don't trust it - it comes close but not totally accurate. it varies with the thickness of the wood, position of the table


Same experience with my Eurasia but I strongly suspect that the table is not perfectly 90 degrees to the stand. Problem is that shortly after I bought the drill press I discovered that the importers closed down and cannot get support.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

TheCableGuy said:


> This is over my head but as I went threw all the posts and if I'm reading it right then it can stay centered if the alignments done right in the first place.
> I'm going to order one as I really have issues seeing where the bits going to contact .
> If you do have to reset it on a differant height it may not be the end of the world, as I can always use it at one specific height and then shut it off in other situations .
> I'm still really liking the concept .
> ...


Nick and Mike got it Rick. Try to imagine it this way. The easiest way to imagine it is if one emitter is on the side of the drill and the other is in the front although you could have one on the side to the front and the other on the same side towards the rear of the housing. Each emitter is oriented so that the beam starts at the center of the chuck and forms a curtain of light that goes vertically down from there to the floor. The other beam does the same thing but from a different angle. Any point where the beams cross will be directly below the center of the chuck.

Another analogy is two walls in a room that meet at a corner. Each wall represents a laser beam curtain. If the drill chuck was at the top of the corner then any point where the two walls (laser beams) meet is directly below the top corner (drill chuck). Does that make sense now?

The one way that won't work is if both lasers are directly opposite each other in relation to the chuck. That puts both beams in the same plane and they don't cross each other.


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

TheCableGuy said:


> This is over my head but as I went threw all the posts and if I'm reading it right then it can stay centered if the alignments done right in the first place.


Yep!! You got it right Rick.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

What a pity. Hi tech for the sake of it and it's nuthin' but a guess.


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

Quillman said:


> What a pity. Hi tech for the sake of it and it's nuthin' but a guess.


I don't understand that statement.


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

I know that I tend to be Captain Obvious, so forgive me if this is one of those times. I think a lot depends on what your expectations for precision might be. For me, my need for this is to get closer than I had been doing. So if it is off by a 1/32", that is fine. It is a heck of a lot closer than I can do by myself. If I was drilling printed circuit boards for example, I would be very disappointed. So again, your mileage might vary based on needs.


Gary


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Quillman said:


> What a pity. Hi tech for the sake of it and it's nuthin' but a guess.




I have to agree with you Pat for several reasons, none of which may be the same as yours. In order to be accurate the lines would have to be very fine which would make them very hard to see, especially in good lighting, which you would need to see the mark where you want the hole drilled. Then there is the question of whether they will stay aligned with the vibration from the DP shaking them constantly. So even though I can see how to make it work I doubt I would find any circumstances where I would be interested in using them.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Here's the problem I have with the drill press laser guides. First I calibrated the laser by clamping a piece of stock down on the drill press table and drilling a shallow 1/8" hole. I then calibrated the laser so the cross hairs aligned with the hole. As long as I didn't move the table I could drill multiple holes correctly.

However, when I dropped the table about 2" the laser no longer accurately showed where the center of the hole would be. You can see from the photo that it is off by about 1/16". That probably isn't close enough if you are trying to drill hole in parts that need to align for assembly.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

I'm after medium to .001" resolution.
And a laser will not get me there.
And I really don't understand those that say it's (laser) perfect.
For rough work, yes, but even on .005" - .010" centers you're guessin' & hopin', not knowin'.
I know the importance of close order drilling and the consequences if you can't.
Have studied this for a long time. In fact this fence is predicated on being able to drill to
.001". Not only for the hole diameters, centers, and the coordinates for a set of centered holes but their roundness. Absurd for wood, but not for metal and plastic.
And if you make jigs, the essence of precise woodworking, you need metal and plastic substrates.
And therefore, you need the skills, drills and machine to do just that.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Oliver if you can't make it work accurately , there's no way I'm going to get it right lol . Think I'll just get a cnc router table and use it for precise drilling


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

When I need to hit a mark 'right on' I make a clearly visible cross using a ruler and no larger that 0.5mm pencil. Line it up visually from several perspectives and clamp it to the fence. Next I pull the bit down with the DP 'off' making a small impression in the wood. If the peck lines up with the cross-hair, drill the hole. If not, repeat. There is no way that I can get that kind of precision using a laser. The hardest part is accurately marking a precise cross-hair.


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## Admin (Feb 13, 2012)

This thread is closed, pending admin/moderator review.

Thank you for understanding.


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