# Home Made Gravity Push Block....



## comp56 (Mar 30, 2017)

so I made this push block with a drop down end cap, this is not for cutting on the TS just for pushing under cuts or on the jointer...I even named it......


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I just finished my version a few hours ago. Yours looks nicer than mine. I had some old clothes closet hanger rod so I used that for my handles.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

I like it - guess that's going to stop production until I make one of my own, too many distractions is why nothing ever gets finished.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Nice! I may have to build one of those.

David


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Go and get yourself some nylon bolts from the hardware store, or some wooden axle pegs from the craft store. Then you can have the same great features, but no risk of steel near the expensive, spinning things.

Great project!


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## MYB506 (Dec 5, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I just finished my version a few hours ago. Yours looks nicer than mine. I had some old clothes closet hanger rod so I used that for my handles.


So does the heel automatically adjust itself for use on the TS? Looks good.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I think both are nice and will come in handy.


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

kp91 said:


> Go and get yourself some nylon bolts from the hardware store, or some wooden axle pegs from the craft store. Then you can have the same great features, but no risk of steel near the expensive, spinning things.
> 
> Great project!


I never thought of that. Great idea, Doug.


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

chessnut2 said:


> I never thought of that. Great idea, Doug.


+1 :smile:


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I just finished my version a few hours ago. Yours looks nicer than mine. I had some old clothes closet hanger rod so I used that for my handles.


Charles I couldnt resist and comparing both push blocks, yours looks like Flintstones push blocks. 0.


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

kp91 said:


> Go and get yourself some nylon bolts from the hardware store, or some wooden axle pegs from the craft store. Then you can have the same great features, but no risk of steel near the expensive, spinning things.
> 
> Great project!


Good call Doug. :wink:


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

MYB506 said:


> So does the heel automatically adjust itself for use on the TS? Looks good.


The drop down hooks on mine only project 1/4". I never get thinner than that on my jointer. Because I have Doug's concern about metal coming into contact with blades I used a design that didn't need any to be close. The handle prevents the hook from coming out of the body so to replace it would just require undoing the screws on the handle to replace it. All the hook is a section of wood (could be ply if wanted) with a wooden bar about 1/4 x 1/4 to 3/8 x 3/8 glued to it so someone could make a batch of many of them and use them in an sacrificial fashion if they wanted. This picture shows the individual parts that went into making it.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

RÖENTGEEP said:


> Charles I couldnt resist and comparing both push blocks, yours looks like Flintstones push blocks. 0.


That's an honest assessment Joe. I'm all about function over fashion.


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> That's an honest assessment Joe. *I'm all about function over fashion*.


Totally agree with you, I think both are very functional. One question for you and OP, why only in one side the mechanism, not in both extremes like the original GRR-RIP BLOCK?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It would be easy enough to add a side hook or two, I just didn't feel it was needed.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

As I view it there is nothing on the bottom to grip the wood when not using the hook. My old push blocks were slipping while using them with worn out rubber padding. So what is your opinion?


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## comp56 (Mar 30, 2017)

mine has no slip material on bottom of both pieces grabs quite well


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

comp56 said:


> mine has no slip material on bottom of both pieces grabs quite well


What is the black material you have on the bottom?


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## comp56 (Mar 30, 2017)

not really sure what it is, I had a roll of it used 3M 77 spray adhesive turns out to be slicker than snot on a door knob, wait ... that's not right!.....lol


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

hawkeye10 said:


> As I view it there is nothing on the bottom to grip the wood when not using the hook. My old push blocks were slipping while using them with worn out rubber padding. So what is your opinion?


The push blocks that came with my jointer are the plastic body type with supposedly non slip pads glued to them but they still do slip and that's why I've stopped using them. I get a queasy feeling when they slip and an unnatural fear takes hold. The ones that Tony and I made don't really need the non slip material although it could be added. All the front block needs to do is push down because the block at the back has a positive engagement via the hook hanging down and doesn't rely on friction to get the job done.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Not trying to be critical but shouldn't there at least be something like sandpaper on the bottom for additional grip on the wood? I realize the drop down block captures the back end of the board but that only works on shorter boards unless you have reallllly long arms.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If a board is that long then friction usually isn't enough to get the board to move in my opinion so you use your back hand to pull the board ahead until you can reach the end with the pusher block. I keep mine sitting handy on top of the jointer fence. I don't know if sandpaper would offer enough additional advantage. I suppose I could try keeping my tables waxed better and then maybe it would.


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