# Routing laminate??



## Bshmstr (Apr 1, 2013)

Hi,
I am new to this forum and am not very familiar with routers. I recently watched a couple of videos on YouTube about how to make DIY laminate countertops and am very interested in doing this. In the video they use a leave some excess laminate on the piece and then trim it down to fit using a handheld router. While this is happening the router bit seems like it should be scratching up the finished laminate on the same side the excess is being removed from, however it is not mentioned in either of the videos I watched. Can someone please explain to me how the laminate is not being scratched by the bit that is removing the excess flush with the laminate surface? Not sure if I clearly explained this but the video can be found on youtube by searching How to Laminate countertops. It is the third one down by lowes, my question is about what is happening around 2:09. The top of the laminate is being trimmed up but side remains unscathed???

Thanks in advance. 
John


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

John, there is a bearing on the end of the router bit that prevents it from cutting any deeper than the surface the bearing is riding on. Therefore the bit is trimming the top piece of laminate without touching the side piece on which the bearing is riding. It is trimming it to the exact depth as the side. Hope this isn't too confusing.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

John
George is right, when you go to buy the bit it is called a flush trim bit with bearing on the bottom, you will find bearing on top they are pattern bits, usually you do not want a flush trim bit larger then a 1/2", also if you are building your counter top if possible do your trimming before you install the counter top , normally you want to install the side laminate first so your top covers the top of the edge.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Flush trim bits work very well and don't mark the laminate that they ride on, as long as the bearing on the bit turns free. I have had the bad experience where some of the contact cement from the joint got into the bearing and prevented it from turning free, resulting in a burn line on the laminate. I now put a thin layer of petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the area that the guide bearing will ride on before I trim the laminate. If the bearing should fail, the petroleum jelly (Vaseline) will prevent the bearing from damaging the surface. When the trim step has been completed it's quite easy to wipe the petroleum jelly off the laminate using a rag and some paint thinner. The petroleum jelly also reduces the chances of the glue getting into the bearing. I have had no burn lines since I started doing this.

Charley


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The device and bit shown are specially made to fit to a trim router for removing the surplus laminate and leaves a slight bevel.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi John, welcome to the forum.


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## Bshmstr (Apr 1, 2013)

Thanks to everyone for your advice. So I need a flush trim bit, but can I use that with any hand held router or do I need a special trim router for this application? I actually just ordered a set of new countertops and requested the extra material (off fall). I plan on possibly repurposing the off fall for vanity tops in the 2 bathrooms upstairs. They have the laminate on the top but non on the ends. My vanities but up into corners so I just have to do one end cap on each piece. I noticed that it is recommended to install the side laminate first and then the top. Why is that? In my situation it will not be possible, so will I still be able to use the flush trim bit to remove the excess side material with the bearing rolling on the top material?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

You can use either a full size or a trim router for this job.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi John and welcome (belatedly)



Bshmstr said:


> So I need a flush trim bit, but can I use that with any hand held router or do I need a special trim router for this application?


Any router will do at a pinch, although a smaller router is a lot easier to use, especially when trimming edge lippings because of the weight/bulk. That's why they invented laminate trimmers



Bshmstr said:


> I noticed that it is recommended to install the side laminate first and then the top. Why is that? In my situation it will not be possible, so will I still be able to use the flush trim bit to remove the excess side material with the bearing rolling on the top material?


Normally that's supposed to reduce the visual impact of the phenolic core (dark brown in colour) as well as to protect the edging from being potentially damaged by items pulled across them. I do an amount of shop fitting work (retail counters, etc) and we almost always lay the large surfaces first then add the edges strips afterwards - that way if you need to do an on-site repair in the future it's relatively straightforward - laying the edgings first makes subsequent repairs more difficult.

There was a point made about using petroleum jelly (Vaseline) the prevent marring by the bearing. I not done that for years. Instead I apply a strip of masking tape for the bearing to run against. This leaves the edge slightly proud, but as you need to finish any laminate edge with a fine-cut hand file to take the ariss (sharp edge) off it isn't a problem IMHO. Whatever you do don't skimp on cutters - cheap, small diameter (1/4in) cutters are nothing but trouble in my experience.

Regards

Phil


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