# Childrens book display plans?



## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

I am looking for some free plans to build a bookcase similar to this one. This is not a project I built, just an example of what I want to do. If anyone knows where I can find some free plans similar to this I would greatly appreciate it. TIA

Katie


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

Katie: maybe we talk about the size you want to make and the equipment you have then together we make your own plan.


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

Oh that would be great. I think it looks pretty simple but I am new to this so any help would be awesome. I think I would like it to be a four teir. The books are supposed to set forward facing out in the slots. The ones I have seen are only about 3 inches setback for each level, and the backs of the levels are just slightly angled back so the books will lean back instead of forward when resting in the slots. I would prefer it did not have the extended legs. About 25 inches wide and no more than 15 inches deep. I want it to set on top of my daughters dresser. I have very few tools of my own. Just a circular saw, a mouse sander and a drill. If I need to I can borrow a scroll saw and router from my dad. I would like to keep it as simple as possible because I am just learning. I was thinking of using MDF and painting it. Thank you for your help. I am thinking two triangular pieces for the sides. This is what I have come up with so far. I know this is a very crude drawing but bear with me. I would love to hear your ideas on this. (see pic below) The red lines are the end piecies and the blue lines are where I would line up the pockets. It looks like I would need 
one 4 x 23 inches 
four 3 x 23 inches 
and four 7 x 23 inches. Does that look like it will work to you?
Thank you so much for taking a look at this for me.

Katie


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

The drawing looks good. One comment: It looks a bit crowded with 4 tiers maybe 3 would be better for the 14" wide or how effective is 3" deep? Remember we have the tiered shelves so we can see the books right? With 3" wide there will be a lot of books behind other books. Maybe 4 tiers but the shelf width is only 2" wide. 

You say you have a router. Plunge or Fixed Based? Is the router table mounted or portable? Any router bits? Any guides?


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

I think you are right about making them a 2 inch depth instead of a 3 inch. Then there will be more books showing. I am also wondering if the 4 inches will be too deep for the pockets. We are going to the preschool tomorrow, so I will take a tape measure and check the demensions on the one there.

The router belongs to my Dad who is not a woodworker. I called him today and asked if I could borrow it. He is going to drop it by on wednesday. He said he has never used it and does not know what kind it is. I think it is a plunge. He said it has a little portable table with it. He said he is not sure if there are any bits or guides with it. If I need to I can go buy a bit. It looks like I will have to wait till wednesday to see exactly what it is. I will post the info as soon as I can. Thanks again. 

Katie


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

I will wait until your next post


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

Ok I got the router and the scroll saw today. the router is a craftsman model 315.17492 and the scroll is a shop fox w1713 variable speed. I have been looking online and could not find any info on this router. I have never used one before so I am not sure what type it is but I think it is a plunge. My dad said it had a little portable table with it when he got it, but he could not find it. There are no bits or guides either, so I will have to go buy a bit. I am just not sure what kind I will need. I measured the book case at the preschool and it was about two inches from front to back of the slots, and about three inches from top to bottom of the slot/pocket.


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

We don't really have many router accessories so lets do this project without the router this time. I would suggest that we use the butt joint for the shelves and screws to tie this project together.

Let's start by laying out one side of the shelf on graph paper. We need two sides but we are going to use just the one pattern to get the information on the both the left and right sides. We need the positioning of the shelves and screws on the graph paper. To do this can you get graph paper to make a full scale pattern. Then transfer this pattern to one side of your MDF. 

To get the other side's layout we are going to use the back side of your paper pattern. One side of the pattern will be the right hand side and the other side of the pattern will be the left hand side. 

If you can't see the lines and screws on the back side of the pattern... tape the graph paper pattern face down on to a window and let the sun light be your light table to transfer the lines and screw positions to the back of the pattern. 

Lets do this then we will talk about the sizes of the shelves and supports on the material list next.


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

Ok I have it scaled down so tomorrow I will take some time and get the full size pattern made up. Thanks.


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

I know I'm coming in a little late on this but when I saw the first sketch I knew this looked like something I have in a book called Make-it-yourself Equipment Encyclopedia compiled by Eleanor l. Doan. I think I got this around 1980 at a Christian book store it was published by Gospel Light and cost $2.25. There are 200 projects in the book and I only built a few, and not the Two-Way Library (this is what they called this piece).

This one is a good deal larger then what you want and rolls around on wheels and includes three shelves on the oposite side of the display.

If you are interested in seeing what this one looks like private message me and give me an email address to send it to.

I have no idea if this book is still around but I made several projects for my kids (the youngest is now 26) and I still have at least a few of the projects hanging about the house.... All the project are simple to build and require few tools.

Ed


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

Great! I think we should use 3/4" MDF for the sides and shelves. Look forward to your next post. Below is a question for you in the mean time. 

What is the length of the shelves? Remember we are using the butt joint on side to shelf joint, our overall finished size is 25" and the thickness of material is 3/4".


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

This is one of my favorite items out of the book I mentioned. It is also an easy project and if you want to do a little routing like rounding over or a bit more.........

I made mine out of pine and it survived 2 boys and a girl and a grand daughter, of couse it looks like an antique now.... like 100 years old rather the the 25 it is. It is for smaller children.......

Ed


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## jcmaro (Jan 19, 2006)

*A quick question.*



reible said:


> This is one of my favorite items out of the book I mentioned. It is also an easy project and if you want to do a little routing like rounding over or a bit more.........
> 
> I made mine out of pine and it survived 2 boys and a girl and a grand daughter, of couse it looks like an antique now.... like 100 years old rather the the 25 it is. It is for smaller children.......
> 
> Ed


Ed,

What kind of joint did you use on these? It isn't clear on the drawings.


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

jcmaro said:


> Ed,
> 
> What kind of joint did you use on these? It isn't clear on the drawings.


 Hi,

The plans are all very simple and thus the joints are as well. A butt joint is used and I used screws to make it a bit stronger, counter sunk and plugged.

I should also note that most 1 x 12 material is now just 11-1/4" so the dimensions shown need to be adjusted. Of course if you use plywood this can be cut as shown or even increased to to almost 16" for little older kids to sit on.

We kept our in the bathroom for various reasons including having little one being able to wash their hands and see in the mirror..... you can also have then sit on it while you patch up scraped knees and well the list goes on.

I also made a few "doll" sized chairs of this basic design using sliding dovetail joints which also made it in to a puzzle...... I'll leave that for you to imagine.

Depending on wood selection any number of joints can be added and the "seat" does not have to be in the middle.... there must be fifty ways to do this.

Ed


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

Bob and Rick
I already bought 1/2 inch MDF is that going to be ok? I had been planning with that dimension in mind. The shelves I planned basically looks like a staircase with a piece coming up in front of each step. Like the drawing I posted. I figured 2.5 inches deep on the bottom of the pocket/shelf with the front of the pocket butted up on the front and the back of the pocket/shelf butted by sitting on top of the bottom piece. 

Hey I saw The Router Workshop for the first time today. What a great show. I set the DVR to record it from now on. I am excited to start learning how to use the router. I have a question though. How can I tell if this router takes a 1/4 or 1/2 inch bit.

Thanks for sending me that diagram Ed. That looks a lot like what I have planned out. I made up the pattern and am going to trace it on to the wood tomorrow and start cutting if you all think everything looks ok.


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

Ok 1/2" it is...on the router if it takes 1/2" shanked router bits it will take 1/4" router bits. Just need to add the 1/4" sleeve. What is the model number of your router?


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

The router is a craftsman model 315.17492 Does everything look ok with that diagram?


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

Diagram looks fine. Do you have the full scale drawing complete? What about the offset height? And the overall width and height of the shelves. You have these all worked out right. 

I like how the pieces tie together...you have done a great job.


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

Yes I did have it all worked out on the graph paper. Sorry I did not post all the details. I cannot figure out how to get the graph background to work on my computer program. Here are the rest of the specs. It is the same for each level. It works out so each shelf/ pocket is 3 inches high on the front if measuring from the inside, 2 inches deep from front to back, and 6 inches high on the back if measureing from the inside. I hope that makes sense. Here is a more detailed diagram. I wish I could get the graph to work because it makes it much more visually clear.


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

So with this full scale drawing complete can you make up the material list and post it.


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

Ok here goes. 
2- semi-triangular ends. 16" high x 13.5 deep. (Mirror image of each other)
1- Front shelf rail 3.5" x 23"
4- Shelf bottoms 2.5" x 23"
4- Shelf backs 6" x 23"
Box of 1" grabber screws

Tools
Drill and appropriate size bit for pre-drilling holes, 
Larger bit to widen holes at surface so I can sink them easily
Scroll saw for cutting wood
Mouse sander 
Triangle square
Wood putty
Primer
Paint
Did I forget anything? 
Thanks again for the help. If I am doing something wrong do not hesitate to let me know. I am here to learn.


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

What is your overall width of your shelf? 

Remember, if the overall width of the shelf is 25" then the length of your shelves need to be minus 2 X your material thickness. 2 X 1/2 = 1" and 1" minus 25" would equal to shelf length at 24". SO, what is the overall width of the cabinet if you use shelves that are 23"? 

Here is a drilling question. Which hole do you drill first, the one to fit the pre-drilled holes or the bigger one to sink the screw head below the surface. Or does it even matter.


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

Ok so with a 23" shelf I will have an over all width of 24. I will go ahead with that because the 23" shelf fits better on the wood for cutting. 

When I have done it before, I have drilled the screw holes first then come back with the bigger bit and made the top of the hole a little wider than the head of the screw. Then blow out the dust and insert the screw. Is this the correct way or should it be the other way around?


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

I cut my ends out today with the scroll saw. I had kind of a hard time getting strait lines. It there a trick to this or is it something I just have to get a feel for?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

If you don't mind the price, there are "countersink" bits on the market.

Not sure on a scroll saw but, if you have a level, you can clamp that to the wood and use it as a straight edge.


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

Katie said:


> I cut my ends out today with the scroll saw. I had kind of a hard time getting strait lines. It there a trick to this or is it something I just have to get a feel for?


 I've used these saws for years and years and the bad news is they just don't cut as well as we would like. With time you will get better at it or like a lot of us, get different tools to do the job easier.

When you cut you need to keep the kerf (the cut the saw makes) to the waste side of your line. The cut will most likly be ruff and a bit wavey at this point and the parts will be a little over sized.

Since I'm guess your wanting to make this more "finished" it is time for some sanding. The straight lines can be done by wrapping some sandpaper around a block of wood and sanding down to the line in steps (the mouse sander can do this too but... well it might take a while and comes with some cautions (read on). Sandpaper is sold as either a #(60,80,100, etc.) or as coarse, med., fine, extra fine etc. The smaller the number the more coarse the paper becomes.... now the coarse paper takes off material faster but... it leaves grooves/scratches which will show up when you do the finishing. What is done is to move from the coarses paper to the finest... some people use a rule of if you sand for 5 minutes with this "X" paper then sand for twice as long with the next finer one.... The curved areas will need to be done with a large dia. dowel and the sandpaper wrapped around that.... old broom handle, wood clother rod... hardened playdough... You can do this with your hand/fingers but if you do wear gloves and go slow. To start with don't go any lower the 80 (coarse) and just take off the really ruff parts then move up.

A lot of the edges can be rounded over while your doing this...... some of them you want rounded but some will look better if they are square. As an example the shelves where they meet the uprights should be left square and that is why you sand with a block of wood and the paper, less chance of rounding the edges. The shelf itself where the books go in should be rounded, nicer on your fingers and for a softer edge. The edges of the uprights can be slightly rounded as they will take the finish better and will have less chance of being damaged.

The mouse sander will work better on larger flat surfaces and edges that should be rounded. The object is to take out the wave, the grooves, and to size the pieces so they fit.

The good news is that you can also do a lot of what you have done with a router and get very close to not having to sand at all...... if that doesn't sound good now it will by the time you have finished the sanding......

I'm not sure where Rick is going to take you but since I have the time I thought I would get you going with some sanding tips.

Hope this helps,

Ed


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

Katie said:


> Ok so with a 23" shelf I will have an over all width of 24. I will go ahead with that because the 23" shelf fits better on the wood for cutting.
> 
> When I have done it before, I have drilled the screw holes first then come back with the bigger bit and made the top of the hole a little wider than the head of the screw. Then blow out the dust and insert the screw. Is this the correct way or should it be the other way around?


If you drill the smaller hole first then the bigger hole. Chances are that the bigger hole can be pull deeper than you want to have through the smaller hole. Best Practices is to drill the bigger hole first then drill the smaller hole.

The scroll saw is not the best tool to be using to cut straight lines but it is possible with a little practice. If you want them both to be the same cut them together. When finished take them apart and you have the right and left pieces with same bumps and lumps.

You can use your router and router table to straighten the irregular cuts by setting the router table up and a jointer. See the following link on using the router as a jointer http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=242


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

Thank you all for the great tips. I will get going and post pome pics when I am done. Thanks again for all the help.


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

Look forward to seeing your project.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

I agree with Ed on the sand paper. This may be a silly question, (directed to Ed), what about a palm plane block?


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

Hamlin said:


> I agree with Ed on the sand paper. This may be a silly question, (directed to Ed), what about a palm plane block?


 The easy way to tell is with a scrap block of wood... you make your cut then use the palm plane block and when the sanding is done take a square and lay one side on the large flat and slide the other blade up to the sanded edge and looking towards a light see how much it is rounded.... At this point it becomes a mater of personal choise. Again a lot of times we end up using the router and rounding the edges anyway so who cares what the sander did.

A lot of issues come into play when you do the sanding. In general things that have a soft pad/backing tend to easy edges, this is good for most projects and helps with the finish and tends to prevents edge damage. Another issue is how much sanding needs to be done.... the more sanding the more chance that the edge will round.

What I personally don't like is when a butt joint (used in this project) has been rounded... let's say more then a minor amount. I don't like the look of it and it can become a dust/dirt trap that is hard to wipe off/out. [I did a group of shelves when I had only a few hand tools and a need for some free standing shelves {this was many many years ago}. They were a sort of interlock design and I ended up sanding the vertical/horizontal intersections and rounding them..... never liked the look of how they came out.]

Ed


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

Ok I figured out why I was having such a hard time with that saw. I had my mother in law look at it. (she has used a scrollsaw for years to cut her toll painting shapes) She said the blade is extremely dull and needs replaced. So I am going to go get one tomorrow and hopefully get thes thing done.


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

Yes, dull blades are not good.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Better late than never. I missed this post while I was offline and just found it today. Everyone did a good job figuring the plan out with one exception. It is important to use glue blocks on all the joints; underneath the ends of the shelves and behind the risers. These small blocks add strength that allows the rack to be moved and stand up to everyday bumps and abuse. I found this out the hard way when I built 20 assorted magazine racks for a distributor. The photo is of my prototype. I also built 3 tiered units with 4, 5, and 6 shelves cascading down.


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

Sorry I was gone for so long. The wood I bought for this projest was aperently no good. It just crumbles when I tried to put it together. I had predrilled and it still crumbled. Then I had to go in for surgery and that put me out of commision for a while. Anyway I still want to do this but I am going to have to get all new materials. I thought what I was buying at the time was MDF but it was not. I think it was some kind of particle board. If I buy something thicker I will have to rework all the plans. 

Mike that is Awsome. That is exactly what I was looking for (well maybe half of that). Can you tell me what kind of wood you used and what thickness? Do you have more pictures you could share? Or maybee some advice? I think you are right about extra support. It seemed like even it the wood had held the screws better it would not have been very sturdy. Thanks to all for the help. It may take me a year but I will get this to work eventually. lol


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I will design you a set of plans for this type of bookcase with a cut list, instructions and photo's. I will post it in the "Project plans and ideas" sub forum which will be available soon.


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

Thanks so much I sent you a PM.


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

What happened to that "Project plans and ideas" sub forum anyway? Did it really disapear or am I just not seeing it?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The "Project plans and ideas" forum is a new feature Katie, not yet available. Work constraints allowing; look for it in the next couple weeks.


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## Katie (Dec 22, 2005)

Oh ok sounds good.


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## porthos (Sep 7, 2007)

I just found this thread via Google while looking for the same thing (book display plans) for a single-sided display. Just Google "Guidecraft 6415 Book Display" and you'll see exactly what my wife wants. 

I saw that Mark said he was going to post plans, but I searched around the Plans forums and didn't see anything. Was this ever made?

Thanks for having such a useful resource!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi porthos

I don't think it got posted but this one looks like a easy one to make...

with the link below it should be a snap.. 

http://www.routerforums.com/22619-post15.html

Dimensions 36" x 14 3/4" x 30"


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

porthos said:


> I just found this thread via Google while looking for the same thing (book display plans) for a single-sided display. Just Google "Guidecraft 6415 Book Display" and you'll see exactly what my wife wants.
> 
> I saw that Mark said he was going to post plans, but I searched around the Plans forums and didn't see anything. Was this ever made?
> 
> Thanks for having such a useful resource!


*W e l c o m e . . A b o a r d !!​*


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Welcome Porthos to router forums BJ, that a neat and easy one!

Corey


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## porthos (Sep 7, 2007)

Thanks, everybody, for the quick replies and welcomes! I'm making some modification on my end and hopefully will have this thing mostly built this weekend. I'll post pictures and plans when I'm done.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Porthos, It wasn't Mark, it was me who was supposed to post the bookshelf plans. Some days you just plain forget. My design used Masonite for the shelf backs and never did get reduced to a desk top size. Here is one of the origonals. You will find this rack and variations in party stores in the state of Michigan. I made a bunch for friends in the magazine business.


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## vapochilled (May 2, 2007)

I've just built one, but with cloth web instead of solid dividers, I'll post some pics later.


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## Denise (Aug 29, 2008)

I'm late getting in on this, but I'm looking for a plan for a bookcase just like this (the toddler bookcase, like the one in the color photo posted here). I'm not a woodworker, but my father is and I'd like for him to make one for my son. I'd like to be able to give him a plan when I ask him if he'd give it a try. I didn't see a plan posted and I've scoured the internet for a plan. I'd appreciate it if someone could either post a plan or direct me to where I can find one. Thanks!


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## Jason Johnson (Oct 4, 2010)

I am looking for the same thing. if you find one, please let me know


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## sgtblitz (Nov 16, 2011)

porthos said:


> Thanks, everybody, for the quick replies and welcomes! I'm making some modification on my end and hopefully will have this thing mostly built this weekend. I'll post pictures and plans when I'm done.


I joined this forum just today after googling around for plans for a childrens book display case like the one being discussed. My daughter-in-law asked if I could build one for my 2 yr old grandaughter. She thinks I'm a good handyman since I built a decent workbench for my son and I have no reason to let them know otherwise.

Did you ever finish the project and if so, did you post the plans and pictures?


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## Nice Carvings (Nov 20, 2011)

These are some great ideas, much better than the book shelf we made for my nephew a couple years ago! Hmmm...


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