# Corner Radius



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Here's a neat little trick, neat way to to put in the corner radius...

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Finding a Corner Radius

I often need to make a rounded corner on a workpiece. 

But this can often lead to a lot of trial and error until I get the corner radius just right.

You’ll find a carpenter’s square and a compass makes this task quick and easy. And the results are perfect every time.

For example, I needed a 4″ radius at the corner.

So I lined up the edge and end of the workpiece with the 4″ mark on the outside of both legs of the square (see photo below). 
Then I marked the point of the square. 
Finally, put the pointed arm of the compass on this mark, extend the compass to the edge of the workpiece, and scribe the line, as shown in the photo.


Good Woodworking,

Phil Huber
Online Editor, ShopNotes

© August Home Publishing Company
2200 Grand Avenue, Des Moines, Iowa 50312 


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Oh now thats cheatin!!  lol
Excellent tip though. Thx Bj.


Btw, I do subscribe to both shopnotes and woodsmith mags. I absolutely drool when I get them.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Hamlin said:


> Oh now thats cheatin!!  lol
> Excellent tip though. Thx Bj., , ,


I cheat worse than that --  
I make note of the diameter of common household items.
A quarter is 1" (1/2" radius), the lid to my plastic water bottle is 2", the lid to my travel mug is 4" (2" radius) etc etc ----
When I am *real lazy* -- I just scoot the desired item into the corner and trace the edge.

But yes - I agree that's a great and quick way to find a desired center point.
And certainly more versatile.


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## DavePowers (Jun 8, 2006)

I seen the same email just a minute ago. Neet little trick.

Dave


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Excellent Tip BJ, thanks!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Corey

Many may get the same email as I did But some may not and when I see a neat one I will pass it on , just like this one.. 

It sure beats using a paint can 


http://www.routerforums.com/36229-post4.html

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challagan said:


> Excellent Tip BJ, thanks!
> 
> Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

When I see things like that Bj. I can't help thinking "now why didn't I think of that"
Thanks for passing it on.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Thanks Corey
> . . .
> It sure beats using a paint can
> . . .


 Not if the paint can (or other item) is *handy* and happens to have the *exact* radius you are looking for.

But yes - for the *90%+ of the time when they don't* -- a square and a compass is an _*excellent*_ way to go.

A common variation of that idea -- if you don't have a compass handy or if you need a radius larger than your compass allows for - is to put a thumbtack at your center point and use a piece of string tied to the point of your pencil.


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## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)

Hi BJ

Well, nice trick he has but, framing square is too big (for me) and must be supported for accurate marking (as you can see on the picture...)

I do it a little bit different and get the same result by pre-setting the stop on the ruler, line from one side, line from the other side, stick the compass in the intersection and go.

Just for the photo, I used 2 rulers but actually, I'm using only one.

Best Regards
niki


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi niki

Like you I'm not to crazzzzzy about using the framing square I now use the Incra Rules, they are Dead ON...
As you know the size of the pencil lead can put it off just a bit but with Incra rules, they took that error out of it..

http://www.amazon.com/Incra-IRSET18...41-0208429?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1189030777&sr=1-7




simplenik said:


> Hi BJ
> 
> Well, nice trick he has but, framing square is too big (for me) and must be supported for accurate marking (as you can see on the picture...)
> 
> ...


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## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)

Wow, BJ

For that price...I will "eat" the pencil mark error  two rulers = M12V2 

If I'll use the H7~H9 pencils or even marking knife, it will minimize the error.

Regards
niki


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi niki

It's true it's not cheap but the best never is...
It's setup to use a 5mm lead pencil...
and the lead of the pencil just slips in the dot or the slot..

Incra 6" at a lower price but just as good as the 18" set.

http://www.amazon.com/Incra-T-RULE0...41-0208429?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1191048900&sr=1-7


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simplenik said:


> Wow, BJ
> 
> For that price...I will "eat" the pencil mark error  two rulers = M12V2
> 
> ...


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## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)

Well, you are so correct BJ

The good things cost but they are GOOD...I believe that you could buy some "Made in Chiwan" for much, much less but..."It cost like this - it worth like this"...

I'm, as you are saying "a cheap SOAB" but there are some areas that I don't compromise and buy the best that I can afford.

Regards
niki


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi niki

I'm also a cheap SOB , and I keep track of the bottom line more than most I think, I see by all your posted items that you use a mike on most of your setups and I didn't know if you saw the Incra Rules or not , I don't recall any woodworkers that use the mike like you do setting up the router table ,table saw, etc. and that's the only reason I put in a word about the Incra rulers ,,, your post are great bit hard for me to follow but great..  but I'm bit slow and a old fart.. 

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## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)

Hi BJ

You said that I'm using "mike" to set-up router and table saw....

What is "mike"...

And no, I did not see the Incra rules before

niki


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi niki

mike= short for ,micrometer, Dial caliper,caliper, vernier caliper,etc.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caliper
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Micrometer_(device)#Reading_a_vernier_micrometer


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simplenik said:


> Hi BJ
> 
> You said that I'm using "mike" to set-up router and table saw....
> 
> ...


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Nice, Simpler solution there Niki!

Your way is a lot easier...

... you could mark scales on one of your wooden squares and use it too... yes?


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## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)

Thanks BJ

Not only that I have to learn English, I have to learn BJ's version of English 

The setting of the router bit height and fence distance, is so easy for me and I get an accuracy of 0.1mm (0.0039"), I just crank the router up till I get the reading, lock or set the depth stop and go...

Same with the fence distance, I just put the plate number (bit dia), turn the micro-adjust till I get the reading and lock the fence

Thank you Joe
I could even glue a paper measuring tape on the wooden (plywood) triangles but this one is so easy to set...

Regards
niki


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi niki

hahahahahahahahahahahaha LOL LOL

"Not only that I have to learn English, I have to learn BJ's version of English"

Me too ,,try this one " Izzat " 

I learn new thngs on forum all the time too.. 

http://www.routerforums.com/54521-post14.html
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## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)

Oh my God

You know BJ, I really start to believe that USA and UK are "one nation divided by the language" 

But, I thing that it's about the time that the English will be pronounced as we taLk and all the Knife, Knee niGHt,
liGHt etc will be corrected so nobody have to guess how to spell it

Look at the simple word "IS", actually, you are pronouncing "IZ" and there are so many other examples.

BTW, the only two languages in the world (that I know of), that if you know the ABC, you know to read speak and write correctly are...Russian and Bulgarian (they use the same Alphabet).

Regards
niki


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

simplenik said:


> Oh my God
> 
> You know BJ, I really start to believe that USA and UK are "one nation divided by the language" . . .


It gets worse than that nik -- as you move from, say Brooklyn to Birmingham to Southern California ---- the spoken language here in the US changes considerably.
But - we aren't alone -- from what I hear there is considerable difference between Cockney English and the English spoken in finishing schools etc etc.
And frankly -- I think that is a GOOD thing. Our language and accents and regional dialects are part of what makes us who we are.

BUT --
Backing up a few pages --
There was a discussion of need to get this radius so exact that even a pencil mark would matter.
I must be missing something ---
I understand the need for precision with joinery and inlay etc.
But -
When I think of a corner radius -- I think of things like table tops etc.
Do y'all really have customers that would even know -- let alone care -- 
if the corner radius on their counter top was 3.95" instead of 4" ????

Or are we talking about a whole different context?


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## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)

Hi Drugstore Cowboy

You are sooo correct, I've been in US many times and noticed the differences...the British also have there, not only Cockney, but Irish and Scottish that sounds like totally different languages (reminds the Scandinavian)

But you will be surprised that even in a small country like Israel (6 Million) there are differences between the north/canter/south (and we are talking about 5 hours drive and you "finished" the country)...

I don't think that it's so important if the radius will be exactly within 1/128", at least not for me, you can take a corn can or alike and mark the radius...except you, nobody will notice...usually, if I have to make radius, I'm looking for something from the household, cans, jars, bottles, caps or anything round to fit (plus-minus) to the radius.

I think that what BJ meant, is accuracy in marking in general...unless he wants to make some pattern that the radius accuracy is important.

Regards
niki


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## reikimaster (Sep 29, 2005)

I may be an old fart as well, but I don't see why y'all are using so many tools to make a radius. You're going to draw the radius with a compass (or "set of compasses") and you want a 4 inch radius. Set the compass to 4" (you have to do that anyways, right?). Now it's the only measuring tool you need. Stand a steel rule on edge up tight to your board and run the compass point along the intersection of your board and your steel rule with the pencil in contact with your board. It makes a line parallel to the board's edge. Now take your steel rule (or a nice straight stick!) and put it on the OTHER edge you're measuring in from. Compass point at intersection of board edge and rule again (or stick) make another little line that intersects your first one.

DONE! There is where your compass point goes to swing that radius. 

You can also set your compass, put the point in the corner of the board, scribe an arc that hits each of the 2 edges, now put the point where that arc hits an edge and scribe a line out where you'd expect to need the compass point for marking the radius. Put the point on the OTHER arc you scribed at the edge. Swing another arc that scribes a line that intersects the other one that's out there where you'd expect to have to put the compass point to mark the radius....

TA-DA! You've just used only the compass AGAIN to locate the point from which you mark the radius.

A pattern maker or mold maker might need to work wood to thousandths. I don't. I just need it to look good.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just my 2 cents 

Onyone can do it right once with a can or what every and with luck it will be the same on the 2nd one or the 3rd and so on, but I have seen so many that look like they have been done with a paint can and it moved just a bit...I think the point is to get it right if you can every time not just once now and than...

But after all it's only a line you still need to cut it off or use the router and a jig to get it right everytime on all the corners...
Some will say, hand me a jig saw and I will cut that thing off,,,I don't need no stinking line. 

But it's good starting point...and a tip we can all use I think..it can be done many ways this is just one...


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Just my 2 cents
> Onyone can do it right once with a can or what every and with luck it will be the same on the 2nd one or the 3rd and so on...I think the point is to get it right if you can every time not just once now and than...


Everyone's working style and habits are different -- 
ME - I have better luck being consistent with corners using some kind of object as a 'template'.
The object is going to be the same size and shape every time I use it and isn't dependent on my reading/misreading the ruler every time.



bobj3 said:


> But after all it's only a line you still need to cut it off or use the router and a jig to get it right everytime on all the corners...


*BINGO!*
No matter HOW accurate your line was drawn or how you drew it - 
The end result is only going to be as good as cut.



bobj3 said:


> Some will say, hand me a jig saw and I will cut that thing off,,,I don't need no stinking line.


Yep -- heard that a few times -- 
Actually met *one* person who could make good on the claim - he could eye-ball and freehand a line or curve every bit as good as someone could measure.
I don't come CLOSE to that.



bobj3 said:


> But it's good starting point...and a tip we can all use I think..it can be done many ways this is just one...
> ==============


*ABSOLUTELY* -- an excellent tip.:sold: 
Especially the part about using a square to find the center point.
Measuring from two sides at once saves major time.

_Side note:_
My question on the need for using something like the Incra jig to be sure you were accurate to the nth degree was not a criticism -- it was a sincere question -- wanted to be sure I was thinking about the same 'corner' y'all were.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

simplenik said:


> . . . But you will be surprised that even in a small country like Israel (6 Million) there are differences between the north/canter/south (and we are talking about 5 hours drive and you "finished" the country)...


 No -- I really wouldn't. 
I lived near the North Carolina mountains for a few years --- and you could drive a lot less than 5 hours - and think you were in a totally different country.


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