# Quality vs Cheap tools



## Jennabutala (Feb 18, 2009)

As we know buying quality furniture tools involves a little comparison-shopping.Quality tools are well balanced, carefully machined, expertly matched, and properly heat-tempered. With some care, quality tools will last you a lifetime.On the other hand, cheap tools are a waste of money and can cost you plenty in miscut and poorly cut materials. Cheap tools can also be dangerous because they don't hold a sharp cutting edge, and dull tools can slip. So what type of tools you are using for designing and cutting furniture


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I also temper my purchase with versatility and the amount of use. I could have bought an ELU or Lamello biscuit joiner but I bought a Dewalt for much less money. I've had the Dewalt since 92 or 93 and cut must be thousands of slots, it's still running.

A good tool or toy doesn't have to be expensive or branded some pay for name. Most of my old friends owned Harley's, I had a Honda 750 K1. I road more often and had fewer repairs. Speed wise unless the bike was tricked I usually watched them shrink in my mirror. 

Sometimes I'm forced to compromise like the JET JPM13 I needed A floor planer and molder but could only afford one.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Jennabutala

I agree and disagree 

For Most woodworkers it's just a hobby ,, most get into it late in life,and most don't stick with it very long... once they find out what the true cost is for this hobby.. many say buy the best bit you can buy that is the highest price the norm, most don't sit down with a pad and pencil and come up with some type of total for just a router and the bits, the high end bits can put you in the poor house real quick.. 50.oo to 100.oo per bit..not to say anything about the wood..some will drop 2000.oo or more for some tools and then they find out they can buy the furniture for so much less.. 
Like many hobbys you can go overboard real quick.this and that little things that add up up real quick...
So I always say buy the best you can buy keep your head on, do you need a router bit that's going to cost you 80.oo dollars and use it just one time..
when you can buy the same thing for so much less..it may not last forever but what will ...it's a wood cutting tool and like most cutting tools it needs to be replace from time to time.. I can't tell you how many saw blades I have but it's many...The last one I got was a Freud high end one for 80.oo dollars and it's dull already just after 30 days of using it..80 tooth type..  and I did not use it day in and day out... 

This is true I think for the power tools as well  


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Jennabutala said:


> As we know buying quality furniture tools involves a little comparison-shopping.Quality tools are well balanced, carefully machined, expertly matched, and properly heat-tempered. With some care, quality tools will last you a lifetime.On the other hand, cheap tools are a waste of money and can cost you plenty in miscut and poorly cut materials. Cheap tools can also be dangerous because they don't hold a sharp cutting edge, and dull tools can slip. So what type of tools you are using for designing and cutting furniture


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

The thing about buying a good tool even though you may discover that you could buy the bureau, bed frame, etc., for a smidge more or less than the tool is that you'll always have the tool for other junk.

In 06 I subbed a big roof out, my profit went into a Jet Performax 22-44 cabinet drum sander with one wrap each from 36 to 220 which mostly sat in the basement for close to a year while the Oak was cooking. We bought a new soft side waterbed and the store wanted another $1100.00 for a plain oak frame that went with it. "Yawn"! 

When I was done I had a much nicer Oak frame with mahogany trim, drawers, a headboard and dual heaters set. Much more user friendly than the factory set-up. Wifey was/is very happy and I got a drum sander. If I just bought the frame $1100.00. Buying the lumber and the sander $2250.00 I figure I got the better deal.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

My local Home Hardware store offers a saw blade exchange. You buy one blade, when it's dull or you need another you return the blade and pay 9.99 for a replacement or the cost difference between it and a different blade. I think this is a great system for a blade you may need only once or a continuous use blade that you need to get resharpened regularly. They are not "super high end blades" but they perform fine.
I wish they had something similar for router bits. But if I need a "one time use" bit I will buy an cheaper and probably inferior quality bit. 
When it comes to power tools a similar theory applies. If it's going to be something I use regularly, I will make an investment in a decent tool. If it's going to be a dust collector in my shop, a cheaper or used tool will suffice. 
I watch for sales, I comparison shop, I keep an eye on online and print classifieds for a true bargain, I ask on the forums for advice. Sometimes I make purchases I regret, other times I am rewarded for my efforts. I'm sure this happens to everyone. We all want to save a buck, and we all want to have the ultimate tool collection. I don't think you can have both.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I've thought about re-sharpening dull bits in the past, for me though I'm pretty consistent with keeping the bits clean, (removing sap and pact debris) and checking for junk on and in the wood, I can't recall ever hitting a nail. But I'm sure I've hit sand grains, I have my share of chipped carbide and because of the chips I dump the bit. It might not be felt on a bigger or tabled router but the bit is unbalanced


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I have been involved with 4wheeling (and would still like to do so if I could find a good place to go here in Georgia), for 15 years. What I observed there among some of the fellas I have observed in people most everywhere. "I need to have the best to be the best". And before get flamed not all people are that way, but enouth are that one can make an observation or two. 

Get what you can afford and see what the next step is. As one's ability increases and in so doing justifies a better "wigget" then get it. You may buy the best "wiggit" only to sell in on Craig's list for half or less that you paid for it. 

Sometimes it seems the longer one works with something that is not "the best" and overcomes it's failings the better he or she is when the "best" comes around. I read one time where someone suggested that if someone wanted to be good at woodworking then pick up a knife and a piece of wood and start whittling. After doing that for a year or two then you will know and understand wood, how it feels, how it reacts etc. I don't know if one needs to do that, epically at 65, running out of time, but I think I understand what he meant. 

Get what you can afford and work with what you got. Sometimes we can spend so much on tools we can't afford the wood and then what's the point? I see pictures of some of the shops and see what looks to me to be a "mess", then I see what is produced out of that "mess" and it is a jewel. I think that I am learning that I should just enjoy and not run after anyone. The basement shop I am working on is just because we were going to finish the space eventually and I just get to use it till we need it for other things and then it's back to the garage, no big thing. 

Well so much for that and after dinner I will post on the "basement shop's" big setback in time. :'(


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

When starting out in routing many people make the mistake of buying large sets of bits that seem like bargains. As they start working on projects they discover only a few of these bits get used. No matter how cheap they are, if you don't use them it is just money down the drain. Bob and Rick suggest buying bits as you need them, and this makes a great deal of sense since there is no waste. I do not think people should start out with expensive bits because odds are they will overheat and damage them. It is better to learn on an inexpensive bit and replace it with a premium bit. Most sources agree that there are 10 commonly used bits plus a few solid carbide spiral bits depending on what you are working on. So do not go hog wild buying bits until you have several projects under your belt and know what will get used, how often it will get used and what quality level you really need.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Mike said:


> When starting out in routing many people make the mistake of buying large sets of bits that seem like bargains. As they start working on projects they discover only a few of these bits get used. No matter how cheap they are, if you don't use them it is just money down the drain. Bob and Rick suggest buying bits as you need them, and this makes a great deal of sense since there is no waste. I do not think people should start out with expensive bits because odds are they will overheat and damage them. It is better to learn on an inexpensive bit and replace it with a premium bit. Most sources agree that there are 10 commonly used bits plus a few solid carbide spiral bits depending on what you are working on. So do not go hog wild buying bits until you have several projects under your belt and know what will get used, how often it will get used and what quality level you really need.


I did (the big set deal) and couldn't,t agree more. Just a few to get one going and the rest will fall in as time dictates.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Every bit I've acquired over the yrs. (minus a couple of the straight bits) I bought because the particular project required it. Some have only been used for one project, now they're mine and eventually I'll figure a way to use them in future jobs I hope.

IN the last 5 yrs. we've lost Woodworkers Warehouse and Western Tool Supply, both carried 3 or more brands of everything and they were usually the least expensive of all the local stores and distributors. I'ma missing them!


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## Thrifty Tool Guy (Aug 23, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> I can't tell you how many saw blades I have but it's many...The last one I got was a Freud high end one for 80.oo dollars and it's dull already just after 30 days of using it..80 tooth type..  and I did not use it day in and day out...


Bob,

Speaking of saw blades, do you have any suggestions on good sources of inexpensive 10" blades?

Sincerely,

TTG


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I bought a 66 piece set on E-bay a few years ago and have used most of them. When they go bad, I replace them with quality bits (Freud).


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi TTG

I sure wish I did...at one time I had a guy that would stop by and ask If I wanted to get my blades sharpen,, he always had some high end blades at great prices..Freud 10" 50 tooth for 10.oo bucks but I have not seen him for a long time,, you may want to let your fingers do the walking in your town,,,many people send off for the equipment to start a sharping business , some hang a sign in woodworking stores ,that's how I found him, I guess it's time for me to do the same or start making saw blade clocks again..  I made many for Xmax.gifts some years back.. 





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Thrifty Tool Guy said:


> Bob,
> 
> Speaking of saw blades, do you have any suggestions on good sources of inexpensive 10" blades?
> 
> ...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi TTG,

This all depends on what Brand you're after. Forrest, Freud, are among the highest quality and price. Oldham and others start falling in-line after them.


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

I use the "need vs speed vs cost" method. If I need it today, I buy what's available locally if I can find it. If I have time to order & can get a better tool, blade, bit for close to equal of less cost, I get better quality for the $. 
Being in Alaska, what's available is limited. I've learned to plan ahead & order enough $ value to get free shipping. 

IMHO, There is no $ comparison to being able to buy a piece of furniture etc cheaper than you can make it. (now a days, buying it cheaper it is almost always the case if your time is calculated in the cost) Making it you usually get better product quality & it is customized for you. Some of the nice stuff gets passed on in the family for generations. (priceless so to speak)


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

*More expensive does not always mean "better quality"*

Buy "quality" tools - whether they are expensive or cheap.

"More expensive" does not alway mean better "quality" although in general you often get what you paid for.

Look for "value" for money.

For machines that is easy to tune up it is OK to buy a cheap one new or second hand.

I do not think it is wise to buy electrical power tools to last "a life time".
1. Motor electrical insulation will deteriorate over time. No matter how much you pay.
2. Key features may be lacking. e.g. I had an 8-1/4" "industrial" grade circular saw. It is still very good mechanically. BUT unfortunately it does NOT have a DUST port. Years ago, nobody cared about dust toxicity.
3. Now even cheap circular saws come with "laser" guide. My "industrial" grade circular saw never had one. Lasers were too expansive years ago.

So just buy what you can afford. Compare "features" & not just price.


Just another opinion...


Reuel


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Life time guarantee*



reuelt said:


> Buy "quality" tools - whether they are expensive or cheap.
> 
> "More expensive" does not alway mean better "quality" although in general you often get what you paid for.
> 
> ...


Now are we talking about the live time of the buyer or life time of the tool ?????
For some of us a "life time" isn't all that far away.   !! I guess one needs to decide what one wants to leave to the kids, money or worn out tools  (Is there a question here??)


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## dan_house (Feb 18, 2009)

Ghidrah said:


> Every bit I've acquired over the yrs. (minus a couple of the straight bits) I bought because the particular project required it. Some have only been used for one project, now they're mine and eventually I'll figure a way to use them in future jobs I hope.


Same here. Lately though Ive been using all the stuff I bought for the one-off. But,to be honest, when I started this I had nothing. Now Ive got a decent amount of hand tools, and some power tools too. Now to upgrade the underpowered and low end stuff.


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## idahofiregod (Feb 14, 2010)

I tend to buy tools used and refurbish those that require it. Even that is enjoyable. Right now I'm working on a $10 scroll saw from a yard sale. Other than clean up, it works great and the table is true. I also like vintage (before 1970) tools where cast iron and steel won out over plastics. At the same time, I am not a fan of brands I haven't heard of before. I also tend to treat bits and blades like I work in a job shop where they buy it only for the job and charge the customer. Slowly, as opportunity (and and the Bosses grip on the cash) allow, I move into better tools.


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

Well, I dunn'o . . .

I am not a "cheap guy." I appreciate the finest . . . but am not rich either.

I've dropped $13,000 on a camera lens! Never regretted it either. It fed my passion.

But tools? I use 'em. I don't have any love affair with them. (Well, I DO love my recently built router table. It has allowed me to do raised panel cabinets . . . something I never thought possible!)

I put the cheapest 3 1/4 hp router known to humankind in it . . . a clone to the Makita 3612 that cost me all of $113 CDN, tax included. Canadians will know of it but few others will . . . the "King Canada" brand. I really don't think the Makita, costing AT LEAST 3 times as much, would serve me any better!

In fact, I am not sure the Makita IS any better . . . maybe . . but the marketing of products is not something I am trustful of. Maybe the Makita has higher quality components throughout. Then again, maybe the only real difference is the colour of the body?

Any how, the cheap King seems to be spinning the bits really well.

If you are passionate about something and can afford "the best," go for it!

I have a friend who spent more than $1000 for a pool cue! (Say, whaaaat"??!!)

He's mad!! I told him that. I neglected to mention my $13,000 camera lens though.:happy:

I'd like a Sawstop . . . and a new jointer. If I were 30 years younger, and had the disposable income I now have, maybe I'd get one.

But, no, not now. As Captain Picard said in an episode of Star Trek, TNG, "There are fewer days ahead than there are behind." And I have no one to leave such gorgeous tools to after I'm gone.

"Cheap" tools, or at least, tools adequate to the job are all I need.

I still find myself drawn to "higher end" tool displays though.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

13000 for a camera lens and then get a cheap router? dont believe i'd admitt that. ")

but i can see everyone needs a good pool cue. lol lol


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

$13000.00 for a camera lens?  That money would have bought you the Makita router, a new jointer, a SawStop and any one or several "higher end" tools. 
I hope somebody great is gonna get that camera lens. :cray:


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

CanuckGal said:


> $13000.00 for a camera lens?
> I hope somebody great is gonna get that camera lens. :cray:


It cost me $13,000 CDN. It was new . . .priced at about $8600 US IIRC and the Loonie was worth about 67 cents at the time.

Now, the same lens is about $7,900 US and, of course the Loonie is way up.

I'm not through with it yet!


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

CanuckGal said:


> My local Home Hardware store offers a saw blade exchange. You buy one blade, when it's dull or you need another you return the blade and pay 9.99 for a replacement or the cost difference between it and a different blade. I think this is a great system for a blade you may need only once or a continuous use blade that you need to get resharpened regularly. They are not "super high end blades" but they perform fine.
> I wish they had something similar for router bits. But if I need a "one time use" bit I will buy an cheaper and probably inferior quality bit.
> When it comes to power tools a similar theory applies. If it's going to be something I use regularly, I will make an investment in a decent tool. If it's going to be a dust collector in my shop, a cheaper or used tool will suffice.
> I watch for sales, I comparison shop, I keep an eye on online and print classifieds for a true bargain, I ask on the forums for advice. Sometimes I make purchases I regret, other times I am rewarded for my efforts. I'm sure this happens to everyone. We all want to save a buck, and we all want to have the ultimate tool collection. I don't think you can have both.


Hi Deb:

Actually, Exchange-a-blade started as "Exchange-a-bit." However, I quickly discovered that their quality of bit was pretty poor and even the exchange cost was more than, say, a BusyBee bit, including shipping. 

exchangeablade.com

By the time I pay the cost of the bit, and the exchange, I could have ordered 3 or 4 from BusyBee. For the really high end bits, I'll order from LeeValley.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Bogydave said:


> I use the "need vs speed vs cost" method. If I need it today, I buy what's available locally if I can find it. If I have time to order & can get a better tool, blade, bit for close to equal of less cost, I get better quality for the $.
> Being in Alaska, what's available is limited. I've learned to plan ahead & order enough $ value to get free shipping.
> 
> IMHO, There is no $ comparison to being able to buy a piece of furniture etc cheaper than you can make it. (now a days, buying it cheaper it is almost always the case if your time is calculated in the cost) Making it you usually get better product quality & it is customized for you. Some of the nice stuff gets passed on in the family for generations. (priceless so to speak)


Hi Dave:

Yes, but what do you get for the cheaper dollars? Like you said, passing it on to the family for generations is priceless. I "inherited" (when we bought this house) a huge wall unit of European design. It is huge and fancy and very dark. I took a close look at it to see if something could be done with it and it is entirely particle board. MDF would be a step up. And, I bet this thing cost a bundle. It is going straight to the tip when I get to that part of the house. Not worth taking the time to take apart at the moment.

By contrast, I also inherited a full bedroom suite of maple furniture from my parents. Several grandnieces and grandnephews have already spoken for it.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I have a few cheap tools, and no expensive ones.
I shop around, read reviews, and buy good quality, moderately priced tools.
I'm not going to pay the price for a Grizzly tool if HF has the same thing for several hundred less (check the band saws).
I don't buy anything because of the name on it, except cars (Ford).
I watch CL for bargains, and have made a few bucks there.
I'm not poor, but being retired, I have to watch it.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Mike, 

+ one on everything you said. i do own a few name brand tools but even on those, i got them for less than full price display models etc. most of them were actually Christmas and birthday presents.


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## Ironman50 (Jun 5, 2012)

True enough. Less expensive tools are attractive at first, but cost you more money and time in the long run. However, just like everything else, it admits of exceptions. I had come across with tools which were low-priced yet uncompromising of its quality.


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## Fabitfast (Jun 14, 2012)

In some cases it may be possible. It’s not all the time that cheaper machines would mean more expenses. Sometimes, availing less-value machines could do the required job. So why spend more if you can finish it spending less? I buy less expensive blades from sawblade.com and I don’t get any problem with their blades.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Bob;_ "The last one I got was a Freud high end one for 80.oo dollars and it's dull already just after 30 days of using it..80 tooth type.. and I did not use it day in and day out... "_
That's just not right, Bob. Have you complained to Freud? Certainly justified!
People have been complaining for years that MDF (some of it) is a blade killer(?).

Jerry; Amen on the 'bigger is better' hype. That's certainly been true of the camera and stereo 'collectors'. Whenever I saw someone with an old Leica, I knew they were serious about their photography.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Terry; "...And I have no one to leave such gorgeous tools to after I'm gone."
I'll bet after today there'll be a lineup forming for the lens though!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

No big deal,,,I think it was my error I made some sanding blocks and I glued the paper to some MDF and than cut them up,BIG error on my part,that's like sanding the blade with some sand paper and it took the edge right off.. 



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DaninVan said:


> Bob;_ "The last one I got was a Freud high end one for 80.oo dollars and it's dull already just after 30 days of using it..80 tooth type.. and I did not use it day in and day out... "_
> That's just not right, Bob. Have you complained to Freud? Certainly justified!
> People have been complaining for years that MDF (some of it) is a blade killer(?).
> 
> Jerry; Amen on the 'bigger is better' hype. That's certainly been true of the camera and stereo 'collectors'. Whenever I saw someone with an old Leica, I knew they were serious about their photography.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I do a lot of comparison and research before buying a tool. My first table saw was a Delta contractor saw, 1hp direct drive. Got it and a Delta 14 inch band saw for $300 each on closeout when a local Lowes went out of business. I still have the band saw, but the table saw was just too under powered, so I did a lot of research and choose the Laguna Fusion saw, which is terrific and a far better value that the Saw Stop. I have only been acquiring good tools during the past 10 years, during which my income was the highest in my lifetime. Now I'm semi retired and the income is lower, but since I have great tools, I'm set for as long as I can do wodworking. The difference between projects cut on the two table saws is huge, and the Laguna doesn't stall and cuts half an inch more. I think the choice of tools reflects the individual and there are no hard rules. My son in law inherited my prior table and sliding miter saw and is getting hooked. What you need and what you can afford may be very different for different folks. One size (or approach) definitely does not fit all.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

It all depends. Was in Harbor Freight one day when a contractor came in and wanted to buy a cheap tool, the only one in the store. He stated that the tool would last about three weeks, then be toast. During that three weeks the tool would be used pretty much constantly, 10 hours a day, seven days a week. And why did he want a cheap tool, that would only last three weeks? He could buy a top of the line tool, for twice what the cheap tool would cost. The however is, the expensive tool would last about 5 weeks. So, for the same price, he could get two cheap tools, and get an extra week of work out of them. He said the quality of the work was the same, but it was more cost effective to him to get the cheap tool. 

Me, I normally buy cheap tools when I buy new. They never get used enough to wear out, do the same work, plus they tend to walk off with one of my two sons. If I want high quality tools, I buy used tools, old used tools, the ones that were made to last. One example is an old Craftsman hand mitre saw, it's probably 50 years old, still dead on, will probably still be around 200 years from now, and it was very inexpensive.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

As the old adage goes, a poor workman always blames his tools. I would recommend buying a tool that is just beyond your skill level. Then as your skill level increases you'll be amazed at what you can accomplish with that "cheap" tool. Time will come then when you can make a wise decision as to the trade off between skill level, price, quality and perhaps more importantly, what's required for the project at hand.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Jennabutala said:


> As we know buying quality furniture tools involves a little comparison-shopping.Quality tools are well balanced, carefully machined, expertly matched, and properly heat-tempered. With some care, quality tools will last you a lifetime.On the other hand, cheap tools are a waste of money and can cost you plenty in miscut and poorly cut materials. Cheap tools can also be dangerous because they don't hold a sharp cutting edge, and dull tools can slip. So what type of tools you are using for designing and cutting furniture


Yet, there are cheap versions of quality tools out there. If you have learned how to recognize a quality tool. Price dictates only that the seller is willing to take a gamble on the gullability of the purchaser. I once asked my Mother if I showed her an excellent quality towel at 1/2 the price of an expensive but poorly made towel which would she prefer. she answered 'the expensive one -- it has to be better'.

the same holds true for tools. My father taught me about sheet metal tools but nothing about wood working tools. I tried to figure it out for myself but my shop is full of really good stuff and garbage.

but, then, there's the other side of the equation. I buy a tool based on the use I might make of it. I specialize in routers. I buy top end, robust, but not fancy, routers. I buy cheap bottom-end electric drills and battery drills. You use them until they're broken or stolen. You don't invest in them.

I did an evaluation of band saws (14" Taiwan Imports) and I bet no one has read it before buying that expensive, pretty, bandsaw for megabucks, only to find that you still need to spend several thousand more to get the 'accessories' to make if functional.

what really bothers me is a conspiracy amongst vendors to provide the minimum information on their products possible. "how many watts is your motor?" "_It's a big one, about 1/2 horse._" "Brand X sells 3/4 horse." "_Ok buy their's then._"

Drill presses are nuts. Ask if there's a throwout adjustment and no one knows what you're talking about. I exchanged three drill presses before I found one with throwout within tolerance.

It used to be that you could trust brand names. Now they're just a gimmic. Worse, there is little difference from one tool to the next. The motors are the same, the gears are the same, even the grease is the same. I burn out a switch on my 120V drill. I found one in a competitor's parts bin.

I buy Ridgid tools, not because they're better than any others but because I use them, break them, send them for repair, scream for my tools for a month, get it back and start the cycle again. they guarantee service for life. I still only buy them on sale.

Could someone put together an essay on what constitutes a good tool and how to tell the difference. For example, a mortising chisel. Does it need to have 1024 layers and if so, how can one tell the difference?

I've done comparisons of planers, drill presses, bandsaws and other tools. it's someone else's turn now.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Ron! Long time!! 

"I once asked my Mother if I showed her an excellent quality towel at 1/2 the price of an expensive but poorly made towel which would she prefer. she answered 'the expensive one -- it has to be better'."
-Ron

Roger that, eh! Customers used to drive me crazy (always the women); I'd point out that there was a less expensive alternative to something they wanted for their kitchen/bath and they'd go with the _overpriced _version. Simply put, they wanted the bragging rights.
_"We just spent mega bucks on our kitchen reno; the SS sink was a bazillion $$$s"..._


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

*memories*



DaninVan said:


> Ron! Long time!!
> 
> "I once asked my Mother if I showed her an excellent quality towel at 1/2 the price of an expensive but poorly made towel which would she prefer. she answered 'the expensive one -- it has to be better'."
> -Ron
> ...


Good Lord: Hi Dan! It's good to talk with you again.:smile:

We had a less than functional kitchen in a winter cottage in the Appalachians in Quebec. I built a kitchen around a 2x12 and my wife loved it. It was clean, functional, easy to use and everything was an arm's length away. I fed 16 people from that tiny kitchen for four days straight. My wife's argued about everything else in the new house, except the kitchen. The next kitchen won't have a stove! Don't need it. I bet there's a few puzzled readers over that one.

Good to talk with you again Dan.

Allthunbs (aka Grumpy)


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