# Help Me Design My Router Table



## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

I need another table router as the projects are getting bigger and bigger (longer). I build acrylic aquariums P/T and I don't have the room in a one car garage and therefore have to work outside when it's not raining.

Attached are some rough drawings I've been toying with. The first is the table top with a stationary top, the 20" and the rest will fold down and the whole thing will roll around.

The lines on the 30" part of the folding table are slots for the fence that I will need. Has to be stout but still light enough to move around and stay straight. I will have another add-on leaf on the end of the 30" as one of my jobs need several lengths of acrylic at 36" long. So the slots will be on the leaf as well.

This table need to be sturdy, stout but still be light enough to move around without calling out the National Guard for help.

Next drawing is of the "main frame". All pieces of the frame, I thought of making laminating legs and rails using 1/4" particle board on the outside and a piece of 1/4" ply on the inside.

And the last pix is of the folding frame. Those dark lines with circles are hinges so the frame will fold up and save some room in the garage. Again everything is laminated for strength and weight. The main rails I though of making 6" wide and the legs about 2 1/2" wide.

So that's about it - should I use ply on the outside and particle on the inside, should I use some other wood, want something that won't warp thru time, forgot the most important factor, doesn't cost and arm and a leg to build. What other materials can I use?

For the top's, I also wanted to laminate using 1/4" particle board and ?? to build up to about a 3/4" thickness. But since it on wheels I could go to about 1" think top and the short 'leaf" would not be that heavy.









Top is 50" x 48" with 20"x48' being stationary.


















The height of the table top from the ground will be about 34" high as I'm only 5' 7" and need all the weight behind me (almost 57 this year :wacko for control.

Sorry for such a long post, but you need all the info thanks for looking

Charles


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Charles,

First, a bit about my shop, as that will be the basis for my thoughts. I work out of a 2-car garage that sometimes shares space with my bride's SUV, so I too am "space-challenged", though not as tight as yours. My RT is 32x52 and is also mounted on casters.

If I'm following your sketches correctly, you're planning an 18"x46" cabinet base, with a 28"x46" "fold out" extension for wide cuts. The extension table would then be added once the extension was unfolded. My suggestions and recommendations are based on this assumption.

First, I'd think long and hard before "wasting" all the space under the 18"x46" base. Allowing 4-7/8" for the casters and support frame, in the remaining 27" of height you could install two columns of drawers (one column short because of the router hanging down). For example, 4 drawers 4.5" high and 1 drawer 9" high, all 24" wide on one side and a drawer or two on the other. Some or all of this could be enclosed cupboards. That would provide a lot of storage space for bits, wrenches, extension cords and many other tools. It would also add some weight while lowering the center of gravity, making it less "tippy".


Regarding the fold-out, my one concern is ensuring the outboard vertical support remains 90* to the table top (the vertical part doesn't lean in or out, letting the far end of the extension table droop), especially if you're going to have it on casters. Give some careful thought to the top / end support joint to ensure it remains at 90*. You may be able to make good use of a secondary angle support here, but this area is out of my expertise. I'll defer to BJ and the other experts here for their suggested approach alternatives.

Jim


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## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> Charles,
> 
> First, a bit about my shop, as that will be the basis for my thoughts. I work out of a 2-car garage that sometimes shares space with my bride's SUV, so I too am "space-challenged", though not as tight as yours. My RT is 32x52 and is also mounted on casters.
> 
> ...


Thanks Jim for the suggestions. Any ideas on material?

My one car garage "shop" comprises of a Delta Unisaw on a Besmeyer moble frame and right side extension table and on the other side a steel beech liberated from the dumpster with a solid core door on top. Space down the middle is the pathway to the garage door and back. It's a good thing I'm a small frame guy. 

Charles


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Charles:

Jim pretty much nailed the status quo so I have to go in a different direction.

I'm loathe to try moving large pieces unless absolutely necessary. Depending on how large your pieces are and what you have to do, perhaps a method of holding your work pieces to the table and a fence on top of the workpiece for control of the router.

Have you looked at vacuum tables? There are even shop-built versions on the 'net.

I hate to admit it, but you might take a look at a track saw that can take a router i.e. Festool or similar. I just use a straight edge but you might need something else.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

A stand 18" deep will be unstable. 24" is better.
Have you considered mounting the router in the table saw wing? That would save a lot of space.


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## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

I'm using the router like you would a jointer. But when the pieces get to 36" and longer and 48" wide then there's no way to hold it steady. With the router table, set the fence and run your pieces thru. No brains, no goof up and all the pieces are the same size.
Using a straight edge would be hard to get repeatability.

I have on the other end of the steel top (saw table) a Inca band saw and a Delta variable speed jig saw so there is no room on the saw top to mount the router. Plus it's PITA to lug the saw out, much eaiser to move around something smaller.

Good idea on the 24" width.

Anyone have any ideas on material, light wight, strong, last??


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

lemonyx said:


> I'm using the router like you would a jointer. But when the pieces get to 36" and longer and 48" wide then there's no way to hold it steady. With the router table, set the fence and run your pieces thru. No brains, no goof up and all the pieces are the same size.
> Using a straight edge would be hard to get repeatability.
> 
> I have on the other end of the steel top (saw table) a Inca band saw and a Delta variable speed jig saw so there is no room on the saw top to mount the router. Plus it's PITA to lug the saw out, much eaiser to move around something smaller.
> ...


I would suggest a Phenolic Faced Multi Ply top that is 1 1/2 inches thick. This usually means doubling up the material. I would put polyurethane on the exposed edges. It is stable, slick, flat, and fairly inexpensive for what you get.

Buy Phenolic Faced MultiPly, 3/4" x 24" x 48" at Woodcraft.com


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

lemonyx said:


> Thanks Jim for the suggestions. Any ideas on material?
> 
> My one car garage "shop" comprises of a Delta Unisaw on a Besmeyer moble frame and right side extension table and on the other side a steel beech liberated from the dumpster with a solid core door on top. Space down the middle is the pathway to the garage door and back. It's a good thing I'm a small frame guy.
> 
> Charles


Charles.. I've attached one picture, as you requested. My table was set up for 2 routers, with a pin router arm for one router and more pics are in my gallery.

I laminated two layers of 3/4" MDF and then covered the top and bottom with Formica to control the affect of humidity change, as recommended by some of the router masters here. I added some maple trim on the edges (just because I liked the look) and finished it with some solvent-based wipe-on polyurethane.

If you decide to do this, be sure to do the lamination on a flat surface (I was fortunate to have access to a 30"x72" folding table with a laminate-covered MDF top). I made it last summer and I haven't noticed any deflection. As you can see, during that time it's been across two sawhorses, still no deflection. I'm in the process of building a RT cabinet (with drawers, power distribution, dist collection etc.) for it, so soon it'll have be be better supported.

MDF is good flat stuff but it's *heavy* and doesn't take fasteners well so I'd be tempted to glue on wooden strips and screw hinges to them. Perhaps others with more experience hinging MDF can jump in here.

I'm fortunate to have a two-car garage but my Uni, router table, bandsaw, jointer, etc. are also on casters as occasionally my bride likes to park her car inside to thaw out in the winter. It's a good thing it's two-car.. for I'm amything *but* a small-frame guy!!  With the wonderful bride I have, I'm blessed..


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## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

Nice set-up you have there Jim. Mine is several layers of 3/4" particle, 3/8" MDF and a layer of 1/8" ply on top and I added a piece of Formica on top of it all. And I also sit it on Harbor freight saw horses. Works great for small stuff but a PITA to use on those bigger tanks that I have built.










I found some "desk's" tops on Craiglist for free and will be using them for the router table build. They are only 24"w x 59"l but will fit the fold-up frame I'm making and for an extension "leaf" I have cut down two of the top just for that purpose. These suckers are heavy about 1" thick with a steel bar in the middle of the table for support. The router will be mounted on the upper right corner of the table (pix) and the ends with the cut outs will be butted together and held with clamps from underneath (those holes for PC cables or wires)









from wood magazine








don't need to buy the plan, the idea is there just size to what I need.

Now to figure out what to use for the fence. I'll be using this "UHMW" the cutting board material for the face of the fence. These pieces are 1/2" thick and were free.









Thought of using a piece of angle aluminum and just face one side with the plastic but then it wouldn't be flat enough so I guess I'll just get a bigger piece of the cutting board material, it's only $5.00 a foot.


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

timbertailor said:


> I would suggest a Phenolic Faced Multi Ply top that is 1 1/2 inches thick. This usually means doubling up the material.


Do a Google search for "XtraPly PSF" 
You can usually find it at Constrution Supply Stores, It's used for concrete forms. Also check with boat suppliers that carry replacment wood products.

Localy here in the Detroit Area I can get a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" 14-PLY Birch PSF for around $75


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

dwall174 said:


> Do a Google search for "XtraPly PSF"
> You can usually find it at Constrution Supply Stores, It's used for concrete forms. Also check with boat suppliers that carry replacment wood products.
> 
> Localy here in the Detroit Area I can get a 4' x 8' sheet of 3/4" 14-PLY Birch PSF for around $75


Thanks for the heads up. I may have to try to track some down at that price. Would make a great worktop for the entire shop.


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

timbertailor said:


> Thanks for the heads up. I may have to try to track some down at that price. Would make a great worktop for the entire shop.


 Besides the PSF Plywood there's also a product called "Plyron" that would make great worktops! it has an exterior grade fir plywood core with hardboard front & back. It's another construction/industral product and it's used for dance floors & stages.


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