# OK, I give up on brush on Poly's...



## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

I have sanded and reapplied THREE times trying to get a nice bubble, point, and dust free finish to no avail. I am sticking to spray on poly from now on, OR spraying the crap via air gun. 
Very frustrating...


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I find it's easiest by thinning poly 2 to 1 with mineral spirits and using a camel hair brush.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

I'll try it one more time tonight with a thinned mixture ( already using a camel hair brush ).
If it doesn't work I foresee my self painting the side of the garage with it when I whizz the can LOL !


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

What type of heat is on ? Is it forced air? Area must be dust free while drying. These questions may have been discussed. I have finished with wipe-on poly. Dries dust free in a very short time. and looks very nice when done.


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

I will add my watch the (temp.) with poly. I use foam brushes to put it on. I also do it on the drive way so I am out side the shop as close to dust free for me.


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## routafinger (Dec 30, 2009)

My shop is not up to dust free standards, but I am satisfied with Minwax varnish applied with a decent brush. It levels and dries just fine, but maybe I'm not as fussy as some. I've used Minwax stains and varnishes almost exclusively for years, and haven't found anything else that works any better. And, they can be found almost anywhere.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Duane, whenever I've brushed on poly (thinned) after two or even three coats, I give a good rub down with 0000 wire wool lubricated with wax furniture polish, this gives a glass smooth surface, give it a try, you'll be pleasantly surprised!


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## waynoe (Sep 29, 2004)

Duane
I've been using Minwax wipe on poly, I'm sold on it no runs no bubbles and easy to use.
Wayne


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Using bulls eye amber tone. Inside. Ambient temp around 73 F

I'll give that a try then Harry. I just get disgusted when I see an uneven finish with a little dust in it. I should have realized woolling it would help. 
Then again I am on some pretty heavy meds since I got back from the hospital Friday night LOL ! ( herniated disc in my lower back :-( got me on the good stuff for two weeks. )


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I know all about lower back pain, what are they going to do for a long term fix?


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Thin with naptha & it will setup faster than thinning with mineral spirits.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I like the Minwax wipe on poly and I use a foam brush, light sanding between coats.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

harrysin said:


> I know all about lower back pain, what are they going to do for a long term fix?


Medication when needed I reckon. 
I don't want surgery until I absolutely can't stand it any more and the meds stop working. ( this is an ongoing thing, has been for some years now. Degenerative disc disease. )


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Duane, whenever I've brushed on poly (thinned) after two or even three coats, I give a good rub down with 0000 wire wool lubricated with wax furniture polish, this gives a glass smooth surface, give it a try, you'll be pleasantly surprised!



Hi there Harry

What is 0000 wire wool?

I have not been able to find it in my area

Thanks


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I've had good results brushing poly on a couple of shop cabinets by starting with very dilute poly and letting the concentration build with the coats.

I use a natural hair brush and a rag for the first coat. I'm new to finishing, so I've found I can get good results by taking the patient approach. I dilute it 2 to 3 parts MS to one part poly for the first coat and use it stronger with each coat until I'm up to a bit stronger than 50/50, It takes more coats but works OK for me since I just add a coat just before I'm done in the shop for the day.

Using the dilute poly seems to make it easier for bubbles to escape prior to drying.

Just the experience of a neophyte...


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## Packard (Jan 23, 2010)

vikingcraftsman said:


> I will add my watch the (temp.) with poly. I use foam brushes to put it on. I also do it on the drive way so I am out side the shop as close to dust free for me.


I also use foam brushes. After I apply the finish I squeeze the brush dry with a paper towel and use it to mop up the excess poly. I gently drag the brush along the grain to do this. It makes for a thin, even coating.

I use a positive atmosphere to create a dust free environment. That is I have a fan blow air through a filter and into the painting area. That forces fresh air in and forces any dust out. Exhaust fans are a huge mistake for finishing areas.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Duane867 said:


> Medication when needed I reckon.
> I don't want surgery until I absolutely can't stand it any more and the meds stop working. ( this is an ongoing thing, has been for some years now. Degenerative disc disease. )


Duane:

I get relief daily from four stretches, all concentrated around my back. 

1. sloppy pushups
2. touch my toes (knees bent and eventually knees straight)
3. left hand to below left knee stretches waist on right side
4. right hand to below right knee. vice versa

I also do about a dozen other stretches. ½ hour every morning (after I get back to normal ;-(


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

kolias said:


> Hi there Harry
> 
> What is 0000 wire wool?
> 
> ...



Ok I got it, I think we call it here steal wool

I got a pack of 0000 and will give it a try

Thanks for the tip Harry


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

I would also suggest painting inside. I usually paint or stain first thing in the morning so that all the dust has had a chance to settle before starting. Avoid entering or leaving the room until your work is dry. Wet the floors, clean your work area, and plan on only using polyurethane on level surfaces. This may mean adding a lot of time to your project but it will insure a smooth surface with as few blemishes as possible. I always use 0000 steel wool between coats on visible surfaces. I mask edges to avoid runs on unstained surfaces. A bit excessive to some but it insures a glass like finish on all surfaces.


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

Personally I think it is a bad idea to use steel (wire) wool between coats of finish. If all of the bits and pieces are not removed (not always easy to see) they will show up as black spots when they oxide. 

Regards

Jerry


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

FWIW, 3M makes "scotchbrite" pads matched to different steel wool equivalents.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> FWIW, 3M makes "scotchbrite" pads matched to different steel wool equivalents.


Yah, but which colour is which?


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Here is a table that might help with the grit equivelents.
The wood working pads are listed on page 2.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Here's a couple of cross-references.. from vendors with prices...

Added: Oops, Deb beat me to it!


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> Added: Oops, Deb beat me to it!


Nope, each is slightly different. Thanks to you both.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Sandpaper clogs rather rapidly with polyurethanes and leave a lot of dust on the work. Steel wool is far more effective IMO.

Trust your senses. A cabinet or piece of woodwork is not ready for any finish until your hands tell you it is. Any residue is easily detected if proper sanding sequences are followed. Steel wool residue should be the last of your worries when staining/finishing.


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