# Miter Slot?



## Denco (May 29, 2012)

Hi Everyone,

My first time posting.

I'm building a router table and have been working on the table top. I laminated the top and it has worked out great and I've put a lot of work in the table top. I'm really happy with it. The hole for the router and throat plates have worked out well, even the shaft to raise/lower the router. All that's left to do on the table top is possibly put in a miter slot.

Here's my question: Should I put in a miter slot? I have a Grripper and saw a demo how it rides well against the fence (which I haven't built yet) thus eliminating the need for a miter slot (supposedly).

I was thinking of laminating a scrap piece and cut a channel to test for tear-out, but just not sure if having a miter slot is that big a deal or not. I believe I'd have to do a really good job or it wouldn't square in regards to the fence.

Maybe even opt for a coping sled instead?

What do you all think? (btw, I am a novice). Very grateful for any opinions.--Den


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You're right. The miter slot and fence have to be square in order to work. I prefer to use a "sled" (usually just a square piece of mdf or plywood to push with). A sled is always square to the fence, therefore no setup is needed. Some still like to have a miter slot so they can use it for featherboards.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Skip the Miter Slot. If you're using an insert plate in your router table, the slot will be too far away to adequately guide anything anyway.

The only benefit to a miter slot is for mounting featherboards. I clamp mine to the table.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

I'm putting a T-Track in mine for featherboards. I saw no need for a miter gauge. My focus was more on a good fence.

GCG


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

i see no utility for a miter track with a router table

i am also using a t-track for featherboards


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Den, a miter slot is only required to align with a flat cutting tool like a saw blade or sanding disk. The miter slot must be parralel to the flat blade/disk or kick back will occur. Since a router bit is round (regardless of the profile) you can cut at any angle with the same results and no kickback. Make sense? When you clamp your featherboards in position you can adjust them to the fence at any angle. If you used fixed locations to mount from (like a T track) then your fence must be in rough alignment to the T track; this is a restriction I have no need for. There is no wrong way to go, use what you are most comfortable with.


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## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

Before you rush off and *don't* install a mitre slot, think about these two products from MLCS. I'm not saying you will ever use them but just consider the possibilities first.

Circle Jig

Crosscut Sled


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I just use mine for clamping featherboards and it also comes in handy for clamping stop blocks. If you put one in, it really needs to be less than 6" from the bit centerline to be useful. Why don't you just skip the miter track for now, not a difficult job to install one should you find the need


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Mike said:


> There is no wrong way to go, use what you are most comfortable with.


Bingo!

Miter slots can be useful if you setup jigs that take advantage of the sliding action of the slot, quite often eliminating the use of a fence for certain operations altogether but as with any "way of doing things" there are solutions to do similar procedures without the slot. Poke around with the search engine on miter slots, lot's of info discussed.

Just an aside..

I never saw a particular benefit of setting up a router sled until I actually had a need 'cause nothing else in my shop could do what I needed for a particular project.

Thanks to the diversity of method put up in this forum I was aware of the router sled and put one together to accomplish the task. I may use it little from this point forward but I now have it amongst my arsenal of setups.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

I've used my router table's miter slot for years because I never knew any different way. I guess that's from using table saws so many years. I use them allot when making rail/stile/raised panel doors. I have sleds and jigs set up for that. I do have a digital miter gauge from my table saw that I've used on it a few times.

A miter slot is a fixed distance from a bit's circumference.

If I didn't have a miter slot? I guess I would just work off the fence with jigs. You work with (or around) what you have, right?


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## Denco (May 29, 2012)

Thank you, All, for your input. You made some excellent points that helped me decide.

I think what I'll do is build my fence first, use the table for awhile, then maybe add the slot in at a later time. Easier to add it later when I'm better at the craft than to mess up my current work now and regret it.

I'm really glad I posted the question. You brought some ideas I hadn't thought of.---Den


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

My current table has a miter track, and my next table with a miter and t-track combination on the table. Do I use the miter slot often? Not really, but when I do, I am glad I have it. My thinking is I want to be prepared for whatever task I need to accomplish. The only compelling argument against having a miter slot is the possibility of compromising the over all table. However, most only require a 1/2" deep groove, 2 layers of properly supported MDF, I don't feel this to be an issue.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Den, a lot of great discussion occured because you asked a question. It is so important that you keep asking questions because we all learn by sharing information. When we stop to answer a question it often sparks new ideas. There are many ways to accomplish most tasks in woodworking; none of them are right for everyone. This is the best part of the forums but only if YOU participate!


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I use mine all the time. I use it with feather boards (a must if you are doing moldings) and also when doing the ends on styles. It doesn't have to be square to the fence at all.


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

I use the mitre slot similar to the way I use the cross cut fence on the saw. If I am routing across the narrow dimension, Then I put the long edge in the mitre gauge and use it like a sled. This gives me a lot more support for the timber.

Darryl


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## elrodqfudp (Sep 5, 2011)

I have been using the Jointech cabinet maker system and have been very happy with it.
While it is not cheap, it is extremely accurate, you can position your work to 1/1000 inch with repeatability. It also takes care of the dust extraction. 

I have mine mounted to a board so that I may just clamp it on when I want to use it so there is no holes in the table surface.

Remember that "In the long run quality is the only bargain".

Browne


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