# Cutters for creating mortises



## zippymail (Jan 25, 2011)

Hi,

I'm very new to routing and still amazed/bewildered at the possibilities and options that have just been opened up to me. I probably didn't need to mention that given my question will surely highlight this.

I need to create some mortises for a desk frame I'm doing but not really sure what cutter(s) would be best and advice I've had seems conflicting and down right dangerous. I originally tried drilling a starter hole and using a straight cutter to expand the hole, turning off the router, lowering the bit a bit more, expanding again etc... This was very time consuming and just seems completely wrong.

A few experiments proved creating tenons was almost effortless on my table, just hoping mortises will prove the same.

BTW, I have a 1/4 inch router (trend T4) and if it matter the wood in question is 2x2 redwood.

thanks, zippy


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## zippymail (Jan 25, 2011)

BTW, when I say lowering the bit a bit more, I mean plunging it further down and locking it!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

How about doing the easy and safe way and all you need is drill motor.

YouTube - JessEm Zip Slot Mortise Mill

http://www.routerforums.com/bargain-bin/23736-jessem-slot-mortiser-woodcraft.html

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zippymail said:


> Hi,
> 
> I'm very new to routing and still amazed/bewildered at the possibilities and options that have just been opened up to me. I probably didn't need to mention that given my question will surely highlight this.
> 
> ...


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## zippymail (Jan 25, 2011)

Looks good, very promising. Can't seem to find any where that sells them in the UK :-( I only did a quick search, will try again tomorrow (it's nearly 3am here).


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## zippymail (Jan 25, 2011)

I've come to the conclusion you can't get these any more, a shame, I've seen a few M and/or T jigs but the price has put me off seeing as its only a hobby to me.

This is probably a more general woodworking question, is a number of (loose) tenons better than one tenon sized to the dimensions of the stock. There is obviously more surface area for the glue which is good, but from say a strength point of view, is the joint any stronger/weaker for weight pushing down. 

I've always matched the tenon size to the stock, this jig only seems to go up to .5 of an inch, I'd prefer to go a bit bigger for 2x2". (Don't let the word 'always' deceive you, it means every-time I've done one, which isn't very many and has taken me ages with a saw, drill and a chisel or 3!)


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Whilst morticing with a router has its problems it is reasonable procedure. Straight walls, good chip ejection, area unlimited, a one step proposition, it has its merits.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi zippymail

JessEm United Kingdom and Europe Dealers

JessEm Zip Slot Mortise Mill Loose Tenon Joinery System

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zippymail said:


> Looks good, very promising. Can't seem to find any where that sells them in the UK :-( I only did a quick search, will try again tomorrow (it's nearly 3am here).


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Quillman

I have 9 fixtures/jigs to put in the slots with the router and the JessEm Zip Slot Mill puts them all to shame..  it's that good... 

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Quillman said:


> Whilst morticing with a router has its problems it is reasonable procedure. Straight walls, good chip ejection, area unlimited, a one step proposition, it has its merits.


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## zippymail (Jan 25, 2011)

The impression I get from this is that a straight cutter is recommended over spiral ones? I did try plunging a straight cutter right at the start and really didn't like the noise, it didn;t sound healthy, however this could be due to the cutter I was using (from the 1/4 trend starter set). Hence me drilling holes so it was just a case of routing in the directions the blades are orientated.

Can you do this realistically with a straight cutter of decent quality without having a good chance of it breaking? I've seen cutters with a protruding segment across one half (a pocket cutter?). Spiral cutter were recommended to be by one person and unrecommended by another :-(

BTW, I've knocked up a U shaped jig to get the dimensions right with the intention of creating the tenons after to match them. I'm happy with that approach, just not sure the best way of cutting out the mortise without shelling out loads on different types of cutters (I've already spent a fair bit on a router/table and bits that any immediate purchase would have to go through the wife for approval, the excuse of experimenting/fun would not cut it for a month or so).


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## zippymail (Jan 25, 2011)

@Bobj3 I saw the rutlands mention in the UK distributors, but their catalogue does not mention it. I will drop them an email though, the youtube video looks very good, reminds me of my original decision to buy a router, I've got little time and just want to get things done. Of course now I have one (soon to be two of course), I want to do more.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

http://www.toolco.com.au/shopdispla...ry=ALL&highprice=0&lowprice=0&allwords=jessem

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zippymail said:


> @Bobj3 I saw the rutlands mention in the UK distributors, but their catalogue does not mention it. I will drop them an email though, the youtube video looks very good, reminds me of my original decision to buy a router, I've got little time and just want to get things done. Of course now I have one (soon to be two of course), I want to do more.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I just put 18 loose tenon joints on a desk I'm making for my wife. I used a plunging straight bit and it work very well. Not all straight bits have a cutter on the bottom for plunging, which I suspect is the case with the one you were using. I have in the past used a spiral bit which also works very well. There are bits specially designed for mortising called mortising bits not surprisingly.
The important thing is the jig you use to keep everything aligned .
There's plenty of designs to choose from, just do a google search.

I don't have a pic handy of the one I whipped up so I made a quick drawing.
The router attaches to my circle cutting jig that has been modified with a strip on the bottom that acts as the guide that slides in the dado that is on the base of the jig. The base I just screw to my bench. You'll notice the face of it has slots cut in it, to enable clamps to reach up to the wood you are routing. Clamp the wood in place, set the position where you want the mortise and tighten the edge guide screws that are on your router (that's where the circle jig slots into your router).
I mark the mortises first and then just eyeball the cut when I'm routing. With the base being quite long, it's possible to do several mortises in a row on a long piece of wood without re-clamping. I plan to add some t-track so eventually I will be able to set the mortise length if I want.

Hmm, can't attach pic to an edited post so pic will be in next post.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

here's the drawing


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