# Blanket Chest



## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Being my first post I thought I would post about my first project. I will try and make it quick as I have to get back to writing a paper on the Texas Constitution. I am very new to wood working in creating specific projects. However, I have found that it has helped me with dealing with my injury / illness. Back in 2011 I was diagnosed with a giant cell tumor in my left distal femur right next to my knee joint. It has been operated on a total of 7 times between February of 2011 and September of 2014. Due to the trauma from the surgeries the shape of the bottom of my femur bone is very irregular and filled with bone spurs. This causes a lot of pain because every time I bend my knee this irregular shape rubs on the patella (knee cap) and tibia. The tumor I had while not classified as cancer is just as aggressive and can transfer to organs with 99% of transfers going to the lung. Sense April of 2013 CT scans of my chest have shown a small nodule in my right lung. Due to the change in density not so much shape it was recommended I have it removed so on 3 September of this year I had it removed and it was giant cell tumor. I am in the Army so this has been a process to deal with this and still remain a soldier. However I have been introduced to small wood working projects that have helped. 

At the recommendation and encouragement of my Wife as she will be making blankets / quilts for the family for Christmas, she recommend I try and make blanket chests. After a little bit of research I came to the conclusion that a router would provide me with versatility for this project as well as future projects. While a table saw could produce what I was looking to accomplish I didn't see the versatility in it for other projects. I am on a limited funding so it was one or the other. Someday, I will have a table saw and a band saw and a planer and all the cool stuff to produce some fine woodworking but for now this is what I have. 

Attached is the shape file of a blanket chest I found that uses a simple shaker design if that's the right term. It seemed to me for a first time project this design would be easier than that of dove tailing. At this point I have completed cut lists know how much wood I need to complete each of the blanket chests I plan to make 3. I have also decided to complete a red cedar insert to give it that true cedar chest feel which I have been able to find a very reasonably priced source. 18$ for 5 3/8" x 6" x 96", so hopefully that sees reasonable guess I will find out. While the sketchup is done in a walnut and cherry I believe given the workability of white oak I think this wood would make for a better starter then that of walnut. Also, less expensive from what I have gathered. While the red cedar was easy to source finding a source for dimensional white oak has been a challenge. I just don't have the equipment for rough lumbar. I have a few feelers out there so hopefully I can get some feedback on a decently priced source.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Peter,

Welcome, you picked a great site to join. Don't be afraid to ask for advice, here, no question is stupid. There are a lot of knowledgeable folks here, who are always willing to help. Take photos as you go. If you run into problems a visual is always helpful to diagnose, fix or hide a problem and recover. 

While a router is a good choice I will suggest that you obtain a circular saw, if you don't have one, also. You will need to cut the rails, styles and panels to dimension and this and a straight edge will be invaluable tool. Buy a good blade for it.

You can post links from your hard drive but the site requires 10 posts for full privileges. They will come quick by just responding to the welcome posts. 

Good luck with the project and keep us up to speed so we as a community can help you along.

Bill


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Bill, 
Thank You I forgot to mention that but I do have a skill circular saw with a nice carbide tip blade that had a higher price tag than the saw itself. I also own a very nice brushless drill. I plan on taking pictures to document the progress as well as be able to get help with any issues that come about. At a minimum it should be fun aside from the satisfaction of building isn't that why were are all here for the enjoyment and fun of it?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Welcome, Peter!
just in case I misunderstood, you do know that Western Red Cedar isn't what's used in Cedar chests?
The normal material is 'Aromatic Cedar'. Completely different species of wood.
Aromatic Cedar Lumber - Friendly Service, Fast Shipping Woodworkers Source

Good luck with the project.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Welcome, Peter!
> just in case I misunderstood, you do know that Western Red Cedar isn't what's used in Cedar chests?
> The normal material is 'Aromatic Cedar'. Completely different species of wood.
> Aromatic Cedar Lumber - Friendly Service, Fast Shipping Woodworkers Source
> ...


Thanks for catching it, Dan. I totally didn't register that when I read the post.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Welcome, Peter!
> just in case I misunderstood, you do know that Western Red Cedar isn't what's used in Cedar chests?
> The normal material is 'Aromatic Cedar'. Completely different species of wood.
> Aromatic Cedar Lumber - Friendly Service, Fast Shipping Woodworkers Source
> ...


Peter,

You actually have two choices when you build. You can either use Cedar exclusively or just line the inside of the chest. If you decide to just line the chest, an alternative source is to look in the big box stores for the Cedar closet paneling.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Welcome to the forum Peter , looking forward to seeing your projects


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Welcome, Peter!
> just in case I misunderstood, you do know that Western Red Cedar isn't what's used in Cedar chests?
> The normal material is 'Aromatic Cedar'. Completely different species of wood.
> Aromatic Cedar Lumber - Friendly Service, Fast Shipping Woodworkers Source
> ...


I've seen cedar chests made from western cedar, has a different aroma, but makes nice cedar chests, aroma doesn't last long, unless you resand it inside once a month. Spanish cedar has a nice aroma too. :grin::smile:
Herb


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

My apologizes for not explaining that one specifically but yes it will be aromatic red cedar from a company that deals exclusively in aromatic red cedar. 18$ does not sound bad at all based off of the cost of the closet inserts at the big box stores and other prices I have seen on aromatic cedar. Any recommendations on where to get the white oak? Has anybody dealt with hood distribution or McEwen products, I got steered towards them but have not contacted them yet.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Peter; here's a few examples of Haida boxes made from WRC...
https://www.google.com/search?q=Hai...oTCNbdmYqr98cCFQgsiAodOe8LAg&biw=1920&bih=864


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Some neat example maybe if I were still stationed in Hawaii would the fit but not in Kentucky.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

*Wood Sources*

Peter, I see that there is a Hood in Louisville. I'll assume that it is close to you. Other sources of lumber; woodworking supply places (Woodcraft, Rockler, etc.). An internet search will find you wood dealers that will ship. A search on Craig's list might find you someone in the area with a sawmill that can supply what you want.

*Added:*Peter, I don't know where you are located in KY but I did a Craig's List search (hardwood) and found several reasonable sources of material. Some will mill the boards for you to specifications.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Peter;
Heh...nope, I just thought you might enjoy seeing what the Haida carvers achieved with hand tools.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Thanks Bill. is hood reasonably priced? I appreciate the craigslist information I have found a couple of sources already. Is $2.50 a bd ft for 4/4 white oak a decent price? That's one of the other problems being new to something. Figuring out what is a decent price and what is not. Thank You


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> Thanks Bill. is hood reasonably priced? I appreciate the craigslist information I have found a couple of sources already. Is $2.50 a bd ft for 4/4 white oak a decent price? That's one of the other problems being new to something. Figuring out what is a decent price and what is not. Thank You


I can't really answer that question. I've never bought from Hood. As for the Oak, it will depend on the region and the prevailing market. Here in Florida it runs more then $2.50. So, probably a good price in the rough. If it is planed it is a great deal. Take your time, shop around. Find several sources and cultivate some relationships.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

DaninVan and I are from the land of plentiful cedar...

Between red and white cedar-- When I think of aromatic cedar, I think red cedar. Red cedar is big grained and light density. It is a soft textured wood. It dents, splits, and chips easy. It is not real durable to wear. (White cedar is more outdoor decks and other construction.)

That is a good looking chest:

Having said that, when I look at the design and when i think of cedar chests... my mind wanders 2 directions. 

The first direction is of a chest made completely out of cedar. For something like that, it would then to be thick stock, to have strength, and be thought of as "folk art" type of quality. It may wear and show it.

The second is hardwood shell, with a cedar lining, which is thought to be a fine furnishing. They are light, strong, and very durable. These are what you think of as being chest that is (or will be) a family heirloom, handed down for generations.

When I look at the design, I think of the second arch-type.


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Peter, Welcome to Router Forum. You have chosen the right place to learn tips and tricks to make your project easier to make. You have chosen a nice chest to build and I'm sure your wife will cherish it. Aromatic cedar was used to thwart bugs from getting into wool blankets. There is a downside, the odor will be picked up by the blankets or any cloth stored in it. I made a cedar chest for my wife years ago and she won't store blankets in it, she finds the odor offensive. After a quick examination of the sketchup file, I would change the mortice & tenons to 3/8" in the legs to leave more wood between the mortices. Of coarse these are only my observations. Feel free to get suggestions and ideas from the many qualified members here,and again welcome.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

schnewj said:


> I can't really answer that question. I've never bought from Hood. As for the Oak, it will depend on the region and the prevailing market. Here in Florida it runs more then $2.50. So, probably a good price in the rough. If it is planed it is a great deal. Take your time, shop around. Find several sources and cultivate some relationships.


Bill,
Thank you, I have been attempting this and am getting there. I think my story helps a little bit as well.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

MAFoElffen said:


> DaninVan and I are from the land of plentiful cedar...
> 
> Between red and white cedar-- When I think of aromatic cedar, I think red cedar. Red cedar is big grained and light density. It is a soft textured wood. It dents, splits, and chips easy. It is not real durable to wear. (White cedar is more outdoor decks and other construction.)
> 
> ...


I am definitely attempting the second. A hardwood shell with a 3/8" thick cedar insert. While the original plan does not account for a insert given there is a rim around the top of the carcass helps facilitate an insert. Definitely a learning process. While it is a 3 hour round trip drive to get the cedar I don't think I can pass up 18$ for 5 1" x 6" x 96" aromatic red cedar boards.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Peter, Welcome to Router Forum. You have chosen the right place to learn tips and tricks to make your project easier to make. You have chosen a nice chest to build and I'm sure your wife will cherish it. Aromatic cedar was used to thwart bugs from getting into wool blankets. There is a downside, the odor will be picked up by the blankets or any cloth stored in it. I made a cedar chest for my wife years ago and she won't store blankets in it, she finds the odor offensive. After a quick examination of the sketchup file, I would change the mortice & tenons to 3/8" in the legs to leave more wood between the mortices. Of coarse these are only my observations. Feel free to get suggestions and ideas from the many qualified members here,and again welcome.


GMercer,
LoL well I have not run into that yet* but we will see. Worst case if my wife or mother in law or parents do not want to store blankets in theirs it can be used for toys and such. 

So let me see if I understand you correctly. Currently the tongue is 1/2" which only leaves 3/8" of material on center in the leg. You are suggestion a 3/8" tongue and groove to accommodate more material in the leg for support? 

My original plan is to use a tongue and grove bit. Given I do not have a table saw. Is that how you would tackle this chest as well? 
If I make the change to 3/8" legs I would switch to a straight bit. 

Given I am making three chests how do some members tackle the same project multiple times? Complete one at a time or complete each piece at the same time?


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> Given I am making three chests how do some members tackle the same project multiple times? Complete one at a time or complete each piece at the same time?


If it were me I would at least mock up one to set the design and dimensions. Once you are satisfied that you have everything just how it needs to be, then you can mill up all of your material at the same time to those specs.

Doing it all at once doesn't allow much wiggle room in the event of a design change, mid project.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> Given I am making three chests how do some members tackle the same project multiple times? Complete one at a time or complete each piece at the same time?


Peter, sorry I'm to this thread of late....
Believe me, I am pulling for you...

as near as I can tell every joint you need or will be making can be done w/ your router, jigs, guides and the correct bits....
I'd be glad to go into what ever you need to, to pull this off...
where would you like to start ???...
we don't need no stinking table saw...

to start, build from w/ whatever materials are readily available to you and line it w/ aromatic cedar(s).....

FWIW...
I build as many pieces as required for how many units I am constructing at the same time...
at your skill level build a mock up (no glue) and when you have achieved your happiness build your other chests from the templates/patterns you created from the 1st chest...


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

dp3dp said:


> Some neat example maybe if I were still stationed in Hawaii would the fit but not in Kentucky.


Much closer. British Columbia.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haida_people


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> I've seen cedar chests made from western cedar, has a different aroma, but makes nice cedar chests, aroma doesn't last long, unless you resand it inside once a month. Spanish cedar has a nice aroma too. :grin::smile:
> Herb


Western Red Cedar and maple ply for the chest and line w/ aromatic cedar...


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

First off, good luck with your medical tribulations, Peter

Nice job on the design. It has a traditional look that makes for heirlooms. Also, nice sketchup work and great use of scenes to tell the story.

Some thoughts

good thinking on making the panels all the same size. easy to turn out lots of them. Any way to make the end and front panels the same size?
I would look at using hardwood veneered plywood for the panels. More stable and easier to work. You could make them thinner. (see next point)
Your legs (aka stiles) have a weak point (see picture) in that your dados are deep and wide. I would make the dados more shallow and use thinner panels.
I would try to have at least 1/2" corner to corner measurement that I show in the picture. I would also make the top and bottom rails flush with 
the face of the legs (stiles) and that would help with your weak point. However, that is a style issue and you may not like the way that looks. If you 
like the rails inset, you could reduce it to 1/4 or 1/8" (from 3/8" now) and still have the look.
if you prefer solid panels, I'd look at the Freud 99-566 or 99-569 so you can keep the dado small. Or just 
make a rabbet in the panel to keep the dado small.
western red cedar is a wonderful wood. I love working it but it dents very easily. Furniture made with WRC will show a lot of wear pretty quickly. 
I would definitely use hardwood for the frame.
panel and rail & stile bits are usually pretty big, be sure to have a router with a good amount of power and variable speed. Not sure I would use 
them with less than 3HP.
Router vs Table Saw. I don't see it as choice. Both are invaluable.

Anyway, good luck and post progress as you make it.

Phil


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

PhilBa,
Thank You and I should have made it more clear in my first post the design is not mine. I found it doing a search on the sketchup warehouse. Matthew G. is the actual creator and the link to the original file is below. I cannot post the URL until I hit 10 posts. I will be using his design for the majority of the blanket chest but will be alternating some things like the layout of the lid and creating a aromatic red cedar insert.

As this thread goes on more and more advice keeps rolling in and either helping me identify a weak point with the legs or confirming some of my earlier research and suspicions. 

Thank you for explaining in depth I think what mercer was trying to explain but given I am a "noob" sometimes it takes old fashion pictures. I had to read it more than a few times to fully grasp everything in your third bullet. So let's play the what if game. If I were to move the dado cuts to make the bottom and top rails flush with the stiles (legs) if my thinking correct in that the only real secondary effect is the size increase of the plywood bottom and the nominal size increase of the bottom support rails? The others would be to increase the strength of the stiles and to create a slightly more uniform appearance but this are more the primary and why not a secondary. 

If my thinking is correct I like this option better than changing the size of the cuts, one thing I liked about this blanket chest is the easiness of measurements it deals mainly on the 1/2". 

So I am planning on completing this in white oak with the aromatic red cedar insert and white oak plywood inserts. The router I have is the DW618 which is only a 2 1/4 hp so doing a solid panel is a little out of the question which is what I have been planning based off of the research I have done before completing this project. So that is good to confirm my researching suspicions. 

Another suspicion I probably need to confirm is if a tongue and groove router bit would be the right choice to simplify making these cuts of a straight or spiral cut bit. I'm sure as this thread goes on it will continue to clarify the project and by the time I actually get to make this puppy it will be all cake. LoL


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

You are right about the implications of moving the rails. Generally, I tweak the sketchup model and take the measurements from that. Though in this case, I'd probably just take the measurement from carcase.

Going to 3/8 or 1/4" panels will make the chest lighter at no sacrifice of strength. It's going to be fairly heavy as is.

You choice of white oak is a good one though you might want to consider a different material for the panels. It can make for a pleasing look. Or you could use a stain or dye. Personally, I'd go with a walnut frame and cherry panels but walnut is way pricey. Just be sure to get good quality plywood.

You could use a straight bit cut for the dados and rabbets, thus avoiding those big bits. A router table would make that pretty easy.

By the way, about your point of sticking to 1/2" measurements. Today's plywood is actually thinner - 1/2" is typically 15/32" or less. That may not seem like much but it does matter in a number of cases. It's ok for panels because you don't want them super tight. To be honest, you should probably get comfortable working at least at the 1/4" level.

I'm seeing more issues with the design. The rails are 1" thick which means you will need to find finished 1" stock (probably 5/4 S4S) which is going to be harder to find and more expensive. If it was designed using 3/4" stock (aka "1 by"), there would be a lot more places to buy the wood and I don't think the strength would suffer. I assume you don't have a planer and jointer to be able to work rough stock.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

I wish I had a planer to work rough lumber. But none the less I have found a local sawmill the produces "furniture ready" lumber. I am guessing that the 4/4 lumber they produce is S2S or S4S and actually 13/16th of an inch but I will work within the confinements of the material I can get with the budget I have, especially given I do not have the equipment to produce exactly what I need from rough stock. That being said I think some of the information you have provided me will also help me determine what do to. If the lumber is a true 1" S4S then I will stick with the original plan, however if it is of the 4/4 S4S 13/16" variety I will likely switch to a 1/4". While it deviates from the original plan working within my equipment and skill I think that makes the most sense.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Now that I final have 10 posts here is the link to the original sketchup https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=d6138b5bee8f009ebd9c9454e3d4e73d


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> Peter, sorry I'm to this thread of late....
> Believe me, I am pulling for you...
> 
> as near as I can tell every joint you need or will be making can be done w/ your router, jigs, guides and the correct bits....
> ...


Stick486,
Thank You for that I really appreciate it! Are there any forum members that could lend a hand in the Louisville, KY area to prepare rough lumber?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> I wish I had a planer to work rough lumber. But none the less I have found a local sawmill the produces "furniture ready" lumber. I am guessing that the 4/4 lumber they produce is S2S or S4S and actually 13/16th of an inch but I will work within the confinements of the material I can get with the budget I have, especially given I do not have the equipment to produce exactly what I need from rough stock. That being said I think some of the information you have provided me will also help me determine what do to. If the lumber is a true 1" S4S then I will stick with the original plan, however if it is of the 4/4 S4S 13/16" variety I will likely switch to a 1/4". While it deviates from the original plan working within my equipment and skill I think that makes the most sense.


95% of those dadoes. M&T's and rabbets can be cut w/ one router bit..
you can opt for fixed tenons or floating if you like...
I'd do the frame in ¼'' dadoes as for the M&T's and the ply panels...
also I'd go for ¾'' frame wood...
use this bit and save you a load if issues... you will need a second ¼'' cutter to really make things work...

Freud Tools | 2" (Dia.) Stacked Slotting Set
Freud Tools | 2" (Dia.) Replacement Slot Cutter

getting another arbor and setting it up to cut the mortises and the other for the dadoes is something to think about...
or skip the 2nd arbor and extra cutter and cut slots in the ends and use a ¼'' spline as a floating tenon would work too..... 
the big plus is that your accuracy will be more consistent this way...

if your material has a live edge you can fix that w/ a straight edge, your router and a down shear flush trim bit...

Freud Tools | 3/4" (Dia.) Downshear Helix Flush Trim Bit
Straight Edge Clamp from JustClamps.com

and as far as your skill set goes.. with the brain trust that resides here it will definitely improve...




dp3dp said:


> Stick486,
> Thank You for that I really appreciate it! Are there any forum members that could lend a hand in the Louisville, KY area to prepare rough lumber?


DIIK....


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

As I was looking at the sketchup with the leg situation I remembered another question I have been pondering. So the Legs and bottom rails have that nice curve to them. My thought was to draw on them to get the look I wanted cut that out and then use that leg as the "jig" for the remainder with double stick tape. Is that the best method or what are some of the recommended methods to create that look?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> As I was looking at the sketchup with the leg situation I remembered another question I have been pondering. So the Legs and bottom rails have that nice curve to them. My thought was to draw on them to get the look I wanted cut that out and then use that leg as the "jig" for the remainder with double stick tape. Is that the best method or what are some of the recommended methods to create that look?


cut and perfect a template from hard board....
rough cut your rails and legs to closeness...
and then use your flush trim bit and template to finish...


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

*I agree with Stick*

Peter, Stick has suggested you use standard finish size lumber for rails and stiles (3/4")... to me this makes sense cost wise. It will save you $ on the cost of a grooving bit by using 1/4" or 3/8", you could make a second pass to widen the groove for a thicker panel without overloading your router. 
My point about the corners was to think about how little stock was left as pictured. I think the bottom leg routing idea you have would work fine. 
One suggestion I want to recommend is when working with the legs...Mark Them! Opposing (criss cross) legs have identical cuts, Choose The Outsides and Mark Them. This can prevent you from accidentally routing or cutting on the wrong side. 
It looks like you have received a great response from many members here, and I hope all goes well for both you and your project.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> cut and perfect a template from hard board....
> rough cut your rails and legs to closeness...
> and then use your flush trim bit and template to finish...





gmercer_48083 said:


> Peter, Stick has suggested you use standard finish size lumber for rails and stiles (3/4")... to me this makes sense cost wise. It will save you $ on the cost of a grooving bit by using 1/4" or 3/8", you could make a second pass to widen the groove for a thicker panel without overloading your router.
> My point about the corners was to think about how little stock was left as pictured. I think the bottom leg routing idea you have would work fine.
> One suggestion I want to recommend is when working with the legs...Mark Them! Opposing (criss cross) legs have identical cuts, Choose The Outsides and Mark Them. This can prevent you from accidentally routing or cutting on the wrong side.
> It looks like you have received a great response from many members here, and I hope all goes well for both you and your project.


As always Thank you!

That is a good point. I will likely end up producing a rough sketch drawing of each face and number each piece so it can correspond with a piece as I go along. I will likely make a trip this weekend out to a "furniture ready" lumber yard this weekend to take a look at what they have. I visited an "Amish" lumber yard today and they just dealt in pine. 

bagdadlumber.com/lumber-products.html


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> bagdadlumber.com/lumber-products.html


Peter, 

Lucky you. That is one nice supplier...not too bad on the prices and the quality looks very good.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> As always Thank you!
> 
> That is a good point. I will likely end up producing a rough sketch drawing of each face and number each piece so it can correspond with a piece as I go along. I will likely make a trip this weekend out to a "furniture ready" lumber yard this weekend to take a look at what they have. I visited an "Amish" lumber yard today and they just dealt in pine.
> 
> ...


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> consider doing them in poplar and finishing them to look like cherry...
> I think the cedar shown is mew growth...
> also see a lot of flat sawn so study up on the PDF's... what you see there may ''look'' good because of the rays and grain but may cause some grief later...


Stick,
I know my wife suggested doing them in pine, which could cost the same at oak due to the knots maybe? My wife definitely prefers a lighter finish so that's why I ruled out the walnut the original sketchup is done in. What about the "whitewood" also sold at the big box stores?


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> Stick,
> I know my wife suggested doing them in pine, which could cost the same at oak due to the knots maybe? My wife definitely prefers a lighter finish so that's why I ruled out the walnut the original sketchup is done in. What about the "whitewood" also sold at the big box stores?


Peter,

Whitewood is usually used as a secondary wood in furniture. It is probably Basswood which is fairly soft. If you want to keep the chest(s) lighter in color consider something like Maple. Cherry will darken down (mellow) with age and exposure to sunlight, but you can finish and seal it to a light shade if you choose.

Check with your lumber supplier that you found. Give them a call and see what they have that they could recommend. 

These may help.

http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHo...Physical_Properties/3_Physical_Properties.htm


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> Stick,
> I know my wife suggested doing them in pine, which could cost the same at oak due to the knots maybe? My wife definitely prefers a lighter finish so that's why I ruled out the walnut the original sketchup is done in. What about the "whitewood" also sold at the big box stores?


clear pine or Douglas fir/vertical grain fir...
doug fir runs to the loam colors bur w/ say a maple, birch or aspen ply panel your chests could turn out quite nice.....

poplar would be a good choice... very easy to work and quite stable in the right cut....
knotty pines seem to fall out of favor quickly... the heirloom appearing pieces endure...


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> dp3dp said:
> 
> 
> > Stick,
> ...


With a ply how would the stiles be completed or would sticking to an actually 8/4 wood stock for them would still be required? 

In addition how does the tongue and groove hold up between the ply "levels"?


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Another quick recommendation for a workbench top mdf, particle board or plywood?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> With a ply how would the stiles be completed or would sticking to an actually 8/4 wood stock for them would still be required?
> 
> In addition how does the tongue and groove hold up between the ply "levels"?


build all those panels as Tudor wall or flat panel doors...
¼'' slot a stile on both ends and edges...
add a floating tenon to the ends...
¼'' slot the rails on both ends and one edge...
tenon the ends...
¼'' as described earlier...
cut your ¼'' ply filler panels to size....
assemble the rails/stiles/plywood as shown...
there is no need for anything thicker than 3/4 stock, 1/4 ply and what you choose for the legs...


.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> build all those panels as Tudor wall or flat panel doors...
> ¼'' slot a stile on both ends and edges...
> add a floating tenon to the ends...
> ¼'' slot the rails on both ends and one edge...
> ...


Something to bear in mind - most 1/4" ply is not 1/4" any more. It may be an idea to buy the plywood before grooving the rails and stiles to determine the actual thickness and buy an undersize bit to get the correct fit.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

tomp913 said:


> Something to bear in mind - most 1/4" ply is not 1/4" any more. It may be an idea to buy the plywood before grooving the rails and stiles to determine the actual thickness and buy an undersize bit to get the correct fit.


correct on the buy the ply 1st...
that slotting bit will match the ply thickness... 
don't get a straight bit for the ply panels.. you won't need it...
use the slot cutter to make the mortise and not a straight bit....

read up on those router bit links and how to use the bits...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

tomp913 said:


> Something to bear in mind - most 1/4" ply is not 1/4" any more. It may be an idea to buy the plywood before grooving the rails and stiles to determine the actual thickness and buy an undersize bit to get the correct fit.


here's what you can do with a slot cutter w/ the router resting on the board face instead of the edge...

.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Ok so am I understanding this correct. In order to facilitate from preventing the plywood layers from showing the stiles would still require a solid piece of wood. Additionally, as I look at the design of the blanket chest solid wood is required for the lid and top rim carcass to prevent the plywood layers from showing. 

I never posted that yesterday but as I did some research and cut lists using plywood I would need a sheet and a half to complete all three chests in addition to the solid wood. Just checking the depot on white oak plywood prices I would be looking at 150$ for the white oak plywood. At that point I might as well stick with solid wood. I am going to check a local lumber supply shop to see what they offer. The planning for this project has been fun so I cannot imagine actually conducting the project. 

Attached and below is a list of Whiteside bits I am considering purchasing to complete this project as well as some more commonly used bits. I read an article yesterday that provided the pros and cons of spiral bits over traditional straight bits. The writer considered that while spiral bits can provide superior performance the cost of them does not equal the performance. He considered that with a straight bit it can be sharpened 4 times and he has yet to find a place that can sharpen a spiral bit to factory specs. The main downfall of a straight bit is when used to plunge straight down it will not cut out the center. So in this list I have provided a few options to see what the recommendations are. I have number my questions so when answering it is easier to identify which question you are answering based off the presentation. Thank You for the assistance.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

A Whiteside distributor recommended that because I will not be doing a lot of CNC work the spiral bits are just not required. He recommended I stick with the straight fluted bits.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

forgot to post the pictures of the workbench and router stand I made this past week. Nothing fancy but should help in the creation of these blanket chests and future projects.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

I finally picked up my materials on Saturday, 11 boards all minimum 98" in length varying in width from 7 3/4 to 14 3/4, with all but 2 not over 8" in width and 2 that are 14" wide. Plus two 8/4 boards both 100" in length and one 12" wide the other being 7 1/2. $225 total not too shabby that's what $2.16 a bd ft. What is the fastest / easiest method for smoothing and removing the saw marks from rough wood a hand planar or a belt sander? I sanded one end for a bit with a orbital and finishing sander but good golly Miss Molly with 88 bd ft to sand like that it would take me a few weeks just to sand it. Granted I did start out with 80 grit as that's the lowest I had. Thankfully, the 8/4 stock is a lot nicer cut so I got that going for me.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

dp3dp said:


> Thanks Bill. is hood reasonably priced? I appreciate the craigslist information I have found a couple of sources already. Is $2.50 a bd ft for 4/4 white oak a decent price? That's one of the other problems being new to something. Figuring out what is a decent price and what is not. Thank You


 That is a good price S3S (smooth 3 sides)
http://louisville.craigslist.org/mat/5214803143.html 
and look for lumber mills in your area. If there is an Amish community near by you will find a reasonable priced resource for local lumber.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

schnewj said:


> Peter, I see that there is a Hood in Louisville. I'll assume that it is close to you. Other sources of lumber; woodworking supply places (Woodcraft, Rockler, etc.). An internet search will find you wood dealers that will ship. A search on Craig's list might find you someone in the area with a sawmill that can supply what you want.
> 
> *Added:*Peter, I don't know where you are located in KY but I did a Craig's List search (hardwood) and found several reasonable sources of material. Some will mill the boards for you to specifications.



Does hood give to individuals I read a couple of people saying you have to be a buisness or sometimes they partner with local wood working guilds\groups.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

If I were to increase the stile size from 1 3/4" x 1 3/4" to 2" x 2" I am only seeing the following for cause and effect. I will be moving the top and bottom rails flush with the leg vs recessed to allow more material between the groove on the stiles. Please let me know if I am not seeing something. Thank You 

1. the brackets for holding the bottom plywood would increase by 1 1/4"
2. The bottom plywood size increase.
3. The cedar insert would increase as well.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Is there a 'Men's Shed' or woodworking guild/club in Louisville, Peter?

I found this one...
Kyana Woodcrafters Club, Louisville, Kentucky


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

By the way, nice job on the benches! How tall is the work bench? You may need something temporary and shorter once you start assembling the chests...could be difficult seeing what's going on inside let alone reaching into the bottom of the project.
Some great ideas online for knock down assembly tables.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

dp3dp said:


> I finally picked up my materials on Saturday, 11 boards all minimum 98" in length varying in width from 7 3/4 to 14 3/4, with all but 2 not over 8" in width and 2 that are 14" wide. Plus two 8/4 boards both 100" in length and one 12" wide the other being 7 1/2. $225 total not too shabby that's what $2.16 a bd ft. What is the fastest / easiest method for smoothing and removing the saw marks from rough wood a hand planar or a belt sander? I sanded one end for a bit with a orbital and finishing sander but good golly Miss Molly with 88 bd ft to sand like that it would take me a few weeks just to sand it. Granted I did start out with 80 grit as that's the lowest I had. Thankfully, the 8/4 stock is a lot nicer cut so I got that going for me.
> 
> 
> > Is there a local lumber/millwork company that you could contact to see if they would run your wood through their planer/thickness sander to get it smooth and a uniform thickness? Those that offer this service usually do so at a pretty reasonable hourly rate, and this would be a way to get the work done with minimal investment (and effort) on your part.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

tomp913 said:


> Is there a local lumber/millwork company that you could contact to see if they would run your wood through their planer/thickness sander to get it smooth and a uniform thickness? Those that offer this service usually do so at a pretty reasonable hourly rate, and this would be a way to get the work done with minimal investment (and effort) on your part.


I found one that has a going rate of 65 an hour. Given I only have 11 pieces of wood that need to be planed hopefully it should be a lot less. 

I've watched quite a few videos on planers but I have one question that maybe I am just missing. As an example I have 1 board that is 1 1/4" on one end and it tapers down to 1 1/8" After watching the videos I know that need to take 1/8" of one side and 1/8" of the opposite side for a couple of reasons. 

My question with a planer is when the planer is set to remove 1/8" is it also set to 1 1/8" and will skip the board that is already at that thickness or will it take an 1/8" off the entirety of the board regardless of thickness?


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

dp3dp said:


> My question with a planer is when the planer is set to remove 1/8" is it also set to 1 1/8" and will skip the board that is already at that thickness or will it take an 1/8" off the entirety of the board regardless of thickness?


As long as the board isn't warped, a planer will remove 1/8" or less as needed. A planer is designed to result in uniform thickness wood, not uniform removal.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

rwl7532 said:


> As long as the board isn't warped, a planer will remove 1/8" or less as needed. A planer is designed to result in uniform thickness wood, not uniform removal.


Thank You that makes sense. Thank You. 

Here's to no more accidents!!!

•Accident free since 10/27/12 at 3:58 pm.
•Cursing free since 10/27/12 at 3:59 pm.
•...it happened in Everett, WA USA


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Now that I have done the pre planning, gather materials and am starting to get engulfed by these blanket chests I have to finish them. Which after reading is all wood workers fear because it only takes one mistake with the stain and the project is kapowski. 

I know I will require three different wood stains colors based on the peoples tastes receiving them. I have started to do my homework on stains and have decided to go with a general finish product. But this is where I get lost to the point of no return. Water or Oil or Gel or Varnish or Help me! Do I need to use a pre conditioner? Given this is the first time I am staining would that help prevent blotches? I know I will test stain on extra pieces of wood to get the desired color etc. Then there is another wrinkle to the this I know from when my wife and I went to woodcraft she like the Java Gel stain but for my parents it was a water based color. I'm sure I can find a similar color in the gel and vice versa but what the more advantageous way to stain wood? Is it the water based, gel or oil based stain? Regardless of which one I want to put a top coat on and that's where I like the water based stain because of the top coat offered by general finishes. Now I am rambling because there are too many choices that I do not fully understand. Can someone please help with explaining the stains. Thank You


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Peter, 

Your getting into an endless subject. There are so many different ways to apply finish, with sooooo many different variations that it will just boggle you. You will end up with information overload and a dozen different ways to skin the cat.

My suggestion, since you are a "neophyte" is to pick a finishing method that you are comfortable performing, concentrate on that method for you application questions and go for it when you feel that you are ready.

As for variation is color, make up sample boards to get an actual true representation of the final finished representations. DO NOT go by a color chip. Use actual material scrap from you project and apply the colors and finishes you like and see how they actually look.

You mentioned a Woodcraft store. Did you ask their resident "expert" for his/her recommendations? Usually, there is someone there who has experiences with the products and can tell you everything that you need to know. Their advice can go a long way in getting to where you need to be.

Hope this helps.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

schnewj said:


> Peter,
> 
> Your getting into an endless subject.


That is the truth. So for a newbie like me what is the best type of stain to use water oil or gel?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Peter... there are two very good books on the matter...excellent explanations on various methods and types of finishing process's. 
A reference investment that you'll go back to time after time: 

Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner

Complete Illustrated Guide to Finishing by Jeff Jewitt


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> That is the truth. So for a newbie like me what is the best type of stain to use water oil or gel?


Each has its pros and cons. Waterborne is easy to apply and clean-up, but I don't like it because it really doesn't penetrate. It can cause some blotchyness. Oil can be a pain to apply evenly, and then there is the dry time and clean-up. Gel stays put when applied and is really good for vertical surfaces. Again, you have drying time and clean-up.

Pick one and try it. See what you like. The books are a great resource. Everybody has their favorite methods or several. Your decision is which one to try (first). Try one, try another next. Don't pigeonhole yourself to one method.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Peter... there are two very good books on the matter...excellent explanations on various methods and types of finishing process's.
> A reference investment that you'll go back to time after time:
> 
> Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner
> ...


That you I added them to the amazon cart. I got to peek inside and define try had some good information. Thank You.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

schnewj said:


> dp3dp said:
> 
> 
> > That is the truth. So for a newbie like me what is the best type of stain to use water oil or gel?
> ...


Sounds easy enough. You mentioned a key word for me - vertical. Given this is for a blanket chest minus the panels which was recommended I stain before assembly there are vertical pieces. I'm debating stopping at the wood craft today but with my two girls along I'm not sure how much of an in depth conversation I can have. 

So would you recommend a pretty stain penetrator on white oak or is that dependant on the shade of the stain?


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Another question. Imagine that. Is there a simple formula to calculate the loss of dimensions from tongue and groove? For example the lid is supposed to be 44"x20" I was planning on using 4 5" wide board joined together but after some simple math depending on the size od the tongue and groove I would be short.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> Another question. Imagine that. Is there a simple formula to calculate the loss of dimensions from tongue and groove? For example the lid is supposed to be 44"x20" I was planning on using 4 5" wide board joined together but after some simple math depending on the size od the tongue and groove I would be short.


Is the actual dimension actually five inches? One thing that you can do is butt joint the boards and spline, dowel, or biscuit (last choice). This would eliminate the dimension loss from the T & G. 

What is the overlap of the lid? How far does it overhang? You can always rip a narrower board and add it to the lid. However, more material is required to do this.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

schnewj said:


> Is the actual dimension actually five inches? One thing that you can do is butt joint the boards and spline, dowel, or biscuit (last choice). This would eliminate the dimension loss from the T & G.
> 
> What is the overlap of the lid? How far does it overhang? You can always rip a narrower board and add it to the lid. However, more material is required to do this.


Schnewj so after I posted that question I looked at the actual plan which comes from issue 142 of wood magazine and they used a simple butt joint vs T & G. Which seems to make sense. Although gluing 2 flat edges together for strength never seemed to make sense to me strength wise. However if done correctly I've read is stronger than a solid piece of wood? 

My other option is using 3/4 white oak veneered MDF with an edge banding. Although would the strength of the MDF come in to question with the hinges? Never using edge banding before is it something a novice can pick up easily with decent results?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

edge banding is a cake and pie task...
go w/ splines on panel glue up and save yourself a lot of work and get some piece of mind...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> Schnewj so after I posted that question I looked at the actual plan which comes from issue 142 of wood magazine and they used a simple butt joint vs T & G. Which seems to make sense. Although gluing 2 flat edges together for strength never seemed to make sense to me strength wise. However if done correctly I've read is stronger than a solid piece of wood?
> 
> My other option is using 3/4 white oak veneered MDF with an edge banding. Although would the strength of the MDF come in to question with the hinges? Never using edge banding before is it something a novice can pick up easily with decent results?


Peter, I'll repeat what most all of we woodworkers know; glue on end grain generally doesn't hold, the wood along the grain will fail before the glue on the joint will.

About the MDF I will only say this, "friends don't let friends buy particle board." In other words, MDF is not your friend. It is dirty, and dangerous to your health, has poor mechanical holding properties, and MDF won't hold its own weight. MDF will sag under its own weight. Although it is easy to work with it is NOT durable. Please reconsider using this for the chest.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

the lid made from MDF will sag in the middle....
and if the chest is ever used as a seat... game over...


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Thanks I will plan on going with a tongue and groove lid over mdf and simple butt glue jointed. Another question for the lid would a 1/4 wide by 1/2 depth tongue and groove be better than a 1/4 x 1/4?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I think the answer would be somewhere between no and a little.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> Thanks I will plan on going with a tongue and groove lid over mdf and simple butt glue jointed. Another question for the lid would a 1/4 wide by 1/2 depth tongue and groove be better than a 1/4 x 1/4?


a spline will be easier, faster and w/ no loss of board width...
in essence a spline can be thought of as T&G....
a spline can a ¼x½'' w/ no effort... major strong too...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Peter; Stick's mentioned the spline joint (twice) and you haven't queried his suggestion(?). You've gone back to the T&G decision.
Why are you deciding against splined joints? 
I have a 1/2" thick splined wooden tray I made _over 50 years ago that's as solid today as the day it was glued and assembled_. It's a way better choice than T&G, in this case.
T&G shines in situations where the joints _aren't_ glued, like soffits, siding, and floors. If the joint opens or moves slightly the joint allows for that, without splitting the boards!
That's why flooring is nailed down through the tongue; the next board's groove is held in place by the previously nailed board's tongue.
But a spline is forever!!!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Peter; Stick's mentioned the spline joint (twice) and you haven't queried his suggestion(?). You've gone back to the T&G decision.
> Why are you deciding against splined joints?
> I have a 1/2" thick splined wooden tray I made _over 50 years ago that's as solid today as the day it was glued and assembled_. It's a way better choice than T&G, in this case.
> T&G shines in situations where the joints _aren't_ glued, like soffits, siding, and floors. If the joint opens or moves slightly the joint allows for that, without splitting the boards!
> ...


thank you...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

You're welcome! Just being helpful; it's me all over... 

I should have maybe mentioned two other factors:
1) T&G joints in construction are often backed up by a substrate. Subfloors or sheathing, giving a lot more strength to the assembly, especially from impact energy.
2) I didn't go back through the thread, but I think Peter was considering Cedar for the panels? If not then the following doesn't really apply, but Western Red Cedar is fairly weak and prone to splitting. The weakest point on a WRC T&G is the tongue; it'll shear off if you so much as look at it...assuming it's fairly thin. It's a softwood with all the negative aspects that go with that. A tight-grained hardwood would be a much stronger candidate for unsupported T&G joinery.

Back to our regularly scheduled program...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

perhaps he envisions a T&G joints as tight fitting joint which it isn't...
if he plans on making it tight fitting it still won't be all that strong because of the cedar tongue..
cedar should be treated as an oily wood when gluing it up because of their inherent natural oils...

wish I knew what he has against splines...

one other thing about splines is their ability to help w/ making a flatter panel w/ seams/joints coming out flush/flusher(?)...


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

My apologizes for not addressing the splines, I was making sawdust in the shop and completely messed up my question. Mike also recommended doing splines when I talked with him. My question was meant in reference to the rest of the T&G that is used by Wood magazine for this chest. they used straight 1" material with 1/2" T&G but the lumber I received was required to be planed to 7/8" so I planned on going with 1/4" I was just not sure if I should do 1/4" or 1/2" depth. 

To clear this up I will be doing the chest in white oak with an aromatic eastern red cedar insert .


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

½''...
use oak splines w/ spline's grain perpendicular to the WO's grain...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

3/8"...the orphan fraction


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Thanks Stick. I have a couple pieces left to cut to size for the first chest and then I will begin the "finishing" routing if I can use that term. 

I will look back in the morning but I forgot if the question was answered if veneered MDF would have any weaknesses to a veneered plywood to use as the shaker inserts. Largest size is 8 1/2 x 12.

I posted this in shop safety but because this is a safety question I wanted to make sure it got viewed so I posted it here.

I am very new to wood working but continue to take precautions to protect myself as we all do or should be doing. Hearing, eye, lung, amd finger protection to name a few. But this question revolves around house protection. 

I understand the risks of stain soaked rags paper towels etc. When I'm done staining I take my paper towels / rags and put them outside in my charcoal grill overnight or soak them in a bucket of water until I'm ready to let them dry out. If they catch fire in the grill its one of the things a grill was meant for to contain fire and its away from the house instead of in the garage. 

My question involves the cardboard I have been using while I stain. If I get stain on the cardboard and wipe it "dry" with paper towel what is the risk of the card board spontanously combusting overnight? 

I have been using general finishes gel stain FSA.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> Thanks Stick. I have a couple pieces left to cut to size for the first chest and then I will begin the "finishing" routing if I can use that term.
> 
> I will look back in the morning but I forgot if the question was answered if veneered MDF would have any weaknesses to a veneered plywood to use as the shaker inserts. Largest size is 8 1/2 x 12.
> 
> ...


Sounds like you have a good handle on how to treat the contaminated rags. However, I would not be too concerned with drips on the cardboard. If you are not soaking the material, (tipped over container), and are just dealing with drips that you are wiping up, you should be OK. The drips will air dry and should not pose a problem. A a matter of fact your contaminated rags are fine if you spread them out to dry. The problem of exothermic and endothermic heat generation starts when the material is compressed. Wadding up a rag or cramming several into a container is prime fire generation territory. 

Keep treating your rags like you are and don't worry about drips on the cardboard.

As a caution to all; the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheets) for the product(s) are always available. If you take the time to read them they will provide all of the information that you need to safely use, store and control the materials. They can be found online or must be supplied by the retailer upon request.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Thank You. I completely forgot about the msds sheet. I took the official DOT HAZMAT class through the Army a few years ago. Which dealt exclusively with the transportation of HAZMAT material. I still have the books around too and whenever we drive and see the UN number on a truck look at what they are transporating. Most people don't think twice about that. 

Good to know about the cardboard. Any other recommendations on a "better" drop cloth or is cardboard pretty standard?


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> Thank You. I completely forgot about the msds sheet. I took the official DOT HAZMAT class through the Army a few years ago. Which dealt exclusively with the transportation of HAZMAT material. I still have the books around too and whenever we drive and see the UN number on a truck look at what they are transporating. Most people don't think twice about that.
> 
> Good to know about the cardboard. Any other recommendations on a "better" drop cloth or is cardboard pretty standard?


Cardboard is fine. Cloth drop cloths can be purchased quite reasonably a most big box stores. They last a long time if taken care of when you are done using them. I am still using some that belonged to my grandmother that are probably from the 30's or 40's. Heavier then most of today's DC's and still going strong.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Thank You all for the support I appreciate all of you sharing your experiences with what can be a potentially hazardous activity. I have been making some saw dust lately and I finally have the blanket chest standing together dry. You can also see the couple of things I stained and the cardboard below it. 































​


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Peter; speaking of drop cloths, we had a nasty surprise a few years back, a spark set one of our woven cotton drop cloths on fire...I was startled at how fast it burned! We got it out with no real damage to the anything else but man, that was really unpleasant for a few seconds. It was brand new, not loaded with paint residue. Obviously not treated as kids clothes are, with retardant.
Is Cotton Fire Resistant? | eHow


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Peter; speaking of drop cloths, we had a nasty surprise a few years back, a spark set one of our woven cotton drop cloths on fire...I was startled at how fast it burned! We got it out with no real damage to the anything else but man, that was really unpleasant for a few seconds. It was brand new, not loaded with paint residue. Obviously not treated as kids clothes are, with retardant.
> Is Cotton Fire Resistant? | eHow


That's why it's important t read the labels before you buy. Legislation is geared towards clothing, but I don't think it applies to other cotton products.

There are products that you can buy to treat items yourself. They tend to be pricey but how much is your safety worth. A burn is a nasty thing and can be debilitating.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Bill; I was more than a little bit angry. I read the package after it happened (it was a brand new drop). Not a word about flammability. 
I went back to the paint store and complained about the hazard; they couldn't have cared less.
I guess I should have pursued it with the Fire Marshall, or Workers Comp, but I just let it drop.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Bill; I was more than a little bit angry. I read the package after it happened (it was a brand new drop). Not a word about flammability.
> I went back to the paint store and complained about the hazard; they couldn't have cared less.
> I guess I should have pursued it with the Fire Marshall, or Workers Comp, but I just let it drop.


Unfortunately, most laws don't say that they have to say anything on the label. Most companies will list it on the label or the packaging if the material is treated or flame retardant.

Again, bottom line dollar...the retailer doesn't care as long as he makes his margin. 

I did a quick search and found several suppliers of flame retardant paint drop clothes. 

Most contractors don't give it much thought. When they need it they just go to the supplier (paint store, lumber yard, whatever) and buy them.

With the insurance and workman's comp premiums so high it pays to perform a little due diligence, and maybe pay a couple of dollars more, then to pay out a claim and have the premiums raised.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Funny you mention it. I purchased an empty paint can with lid today so I can take any rags or paper toweling used for staining and put them in there outside. That way in the event that start on fire there in a metal container with a lid outside, instead of in the charcoal grill I have been using.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

I forget to mention that as an early X-Mas present my wife got me a contractor table saw. This will help greatly with making these blanket chests. It was an AWESOME surprise that my wife did for me. It is the DeWalt DWE7480. Nothing to fancy but the fence is a lot better than the lower models which I am extremely happy with as that was the complaints with the lower models. She did the research based on our budget and bought this one. It was a happy day for this guy!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Sweet! Who's the lucky boy then, eh, Peter? 

So tell me why it's considered bad form to give the Missus a new vacuum for Xmas but OK for her to give her guy a new power tool?


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

HaHa as a matter of fact that was her X-mas gift about 4 years ago and she was astatic with getting a Dyson. Looking back on it I dunno I'd get a Dyson the fine dust accumulates on the inside of the container and its impossible to remove. The next thing is that even the hose has awesome suction the rotating floor brush suction is not that impressive.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Sweet! Who's the lucky boy then, eh, Peter?
> 
> So tell me why it's considered bad form to give the Missus a new vacuum for Xmas but OK for her to give her guy a new power tool?


General rule of thumb; Never buy a women a gift with a power cord attached, unless they specifically request it, conversely, if it makes noise or has a power cord a man is always happy.

I though all me knew this...guess not! So, men, take heed and save yourself some grief.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> General rule of thumb; Never buy a women a gift with a power cord attached, unless they specifically request it, conversely, if it makes noise or has a power cord a man is always happy.
> 
> I though all me knew this...guess not! So, men, take heed and save yourself some grief.


that rule doesn't apply out here...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> that rule doesn't apply out here...


OK, I'm listening. Give me your corollary to the rule.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"Never buy a women a gift with a power cord attached"

I think there may be an exception to that... 
Battery powered is OK then?


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> "Never buy a women a gift with a power cord attached"
> 
> I think there may be an exception to that...
> Battery powered is OK then?


Battery powered is *DEFINITELY* OK!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> "Never buy a women a gift with a power cord attached"
> 
> I think there may be an exception to that...
> Battery powered is OK then?


Ya I hear they frown upon anniversary gifts that look like vacuums or ironing boards lol


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*family programming...*


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> OK, I'm listening. Give me your corollary to the rule.


many of them don't makeup and Carheart is choice of dress...
give on a tool as a gify and the immediately have to test drive it...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> "Never buy a women a gift with a power cord attached"
> 
> I think there may be an exception to that...
> Battery powered is OK then?


sure is...
proven...


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

schnewj said:


> Battery powered is *DEFINITELY* OK!


HA HA!!!!! I Shared that with my wife as she has been following along with this forum a little bit and she laughed and said damn right!!!!


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> HA HA!!!!! I Shared that with my wife as she has been following along with this forum a little bit and she laughed and said damn right!!!!


Glad to see you are getting your wife involved in the forum, Peter. There really is a lot here for the family if you take time to look.

I know some really good scrollers that are women, and women doing woodworking or construction is not new. If anything, seeing some of the projects can fuel a woman's creativity, which can provide you with the go-ahead to enjoy your hobby more when she requests that particular thing she just saw on the forum.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

schnewj said:


> dp3dp said:
> 
> 
> > HA HA!!!!! I Shared that with my wife as she has been following along with this forum a little bit and she laughed and said damn right!!!!
> ...


My wife doesn't need anymore ideas she has them lined up entertainment center front door storage area with bench, jewelry cabinet just to name a few and the list goes on and on. A quilt rack is another I am looking for a plan to. So if anyone has made there own and would be willing to share pictures that would be great. I forget what the rules are on plans for the forums and if it is your own creation or a openly shared one if you can share that. I know if it's a commercially available that's a no no.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

I forgot to mention that I placed an order with Brian from routerbits.com for 2 round over and 2 cove bits and explained I needed the bits for Saturday so I can continue my project. He said he would make sure they arrived by Saturday. So open that mail box on Saturday and what do I see but an empty box............................................................. with a key for the package mail box. So I open it and it's a package from Brian @ routerbits.com. I sent him an email and thanked him a million times over for making sure the bits arrived on Saturday and his reply was that he wasn't able to get them out on Wednesday so he bumped up the shipping at no charge to ensure they arrived on Saturday as they ship USPS. Now that's what I call an excellent business that is concerned with the customer's expectations and the requests of the customer. I was able to continue my project and have started the dry assembly of the blanket chest. I only have the lid and panel inserts to complete which should be interesting. Now that I have the table saw it should be a lot easier to make a spline insert as suggested earlier in the thread.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

google produces a gazillion hits...


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Here is a finishing question for these chests. I have stained the insert panels before final assembly but am debating if I should put a top coat on the panels before or once everything is assembled. I am leaning towards before for the same reason I stained the panels before assembly. As when the wood shifts during the season changes if I stained once everything was assembled I ran the risk of having a non stained portion of the panels show as they will be free "floating" and not glued to the structural assembly. Is it common to finish the panels including top coat before assembly the rest of the chests? Thank You


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

There are a lot of variables there Peter and I would say there isn't one right answer except the one that seems the most practical to you. I would certainly be hesitant about pre-finishing anything that would be glued later since the finish would prevent the glue from soaking into the grain. Same goes for oil based stains.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> a spline will be easier, faster and w/ no loss of board width...
> in essence a spline can be thought of as T&G....
> a spline can a ¼x½'' w/ no effort... major strong too...


Hey @Stick486, for the spline insert, is the spline insert required to be one solid piece or can it be made of scrap that covers the entire spline joint? If that makes sense.

I know in order for the spline joint to be at it's strongest the spline insert needs to run across the joint not parallel to it. Which, I do not have any stock that could possibly cover that. Thanks Spike


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Wanted to provide an update on the 3 blanket chests I have been making. As you can see below I have put together the first carcass. While there are some minor issues my wife is very happy and impressed with it so I'm happy. I have the bottom cleats, bottom, and the cedar inserts, top frame and lid left before completion. I learned a couple of things while assembling this one that I will apply to the 2nd and 3rd one. Speaking of the next 2, carcass number 2 has been sanded and I have to sand carcass number 3. Then I will stain and assemble those as well. I am making excellent progress and they will be done before Christmas.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> Wanted to provide an update on the 3 blanket chests I have been making. As you can see below I have put together the first carcass. While there are some minor issues my wife is very happy and impressed with it so I'm happy. I have the bottom cleats, bottom, and the cedar inserts, top frame and lid left before completion. I learned a couple of things while assembling this one that I will apply to the 2nd and 3rd one. Speaking of the next 2, carcass number 2 has been sanded and I have to sand carcass number 3. Then I will stain and assemble those as well. I am making excellent progress and they will be done before Christmas.


Looking good, Peter.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

schnewj said:


> [
> 
> Looking good, Peter.


Thank You


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Coming along very nicely Peter. Be sure to get photos of the smiles when the gifts are delivered.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Mike said:


> Coming along very nicely Peter. Be sure to get photos of the smiles when the gifts are delivered.


Mike, Thank You! This all could not have been possible without your assistance to this beginner! You were one of the things I was thankful for on Thanksgiving.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

dp3dp said:


> Hey @Stick486, for the spline insert, is the spline insert required to be one solid piece or can it be made of scrap that covers the entire spline joint? If that makes sense.
> 
> I know in order for the spline joint to be at it's strongest the spline insert needs to run across the joint not parallel to it. Which, I do not have any stock that could possibly cover that. Thanks Spike


spline grain is best if it's perpendicular to the board you are splining...
long does work ya know...
make them from scrap but avoid just anything...
oak is or it's ilk are about the best thing going as spline material... 
hit the BB and pick up some ¼'' thick (and wide) oak and cut it to meet the need...


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Thanks this is what I am looking at completing based on the left over scrap I have from the 7/8 white oak stock I used for these blanket chests. Good joint dimensions?


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Well another milestone achieved. I was able to install the cleats, mdf bottom, and front, back and bottom red aromatic cedar insert. The side cedar will be inserted tomorrow as I just need to finish sanding them. The cleats were a PITA, as I followed wood magazines tip and counter-bored the screws. While a PITA now it will save the piece later from the negative effects of seasons changing, which I will take any day as I am attempting to have this be a heirloom chest.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

like the tip..
thanks..


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

dp3dp said:


> Well another milestone achieved. I was able to install the cleats, mdf bottom, and front, back and bottom red aromatic cedar insert. The side cedar will be inserted tomorrow as I just need to finish sanding them. The cleats were a PITA, as I followed wood magazines tip and counter-bored the screws. While a PITA now it will save the piece later from the negative effects of seasons changing, which I will take any day as I am attempting to have this be a heirloom chest.


I guess the c'bores let the wood move by letting the screw "bend"? MLCS makes router bits that let you make a slot for both FL and RH screws to allow for movement MLCS Screw Slot Router Bits I attached the sacrificial fences on my miter saw with RH bolts through slots into the metal saw fence - this lets me move the fences together and recut the kerf when the fence starts to get worn and I need a clean kerf.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

*Thank You*

I know I have not posted in awhile, it is due to the amount of saw dust I have been creating over the past month. Granted my garage or "shop", is now covered in dust, but I will get it cleaned later. I have completed one chest and the other two carcass are put together I am just finishing up the staining and top coat on the lids. I will post some pictures when I get chance.

I want to say Thank You to everyone who has helped me along the way. This new found hobby has really helped with my recovery process. It truly is amazing how wood working has helped provide a outlet to feel "normal". I think the majority of the population cannot comprehend what it feels like to constantly be in pain. So again THANK YOU!

@Mike Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! Thank You! Without your guidance, wisdom and patience this project would have never happened. I am truly grateful that you took the time to teach me and guide me, even though I'm sure some of my question were likely some of the dumbest that you have ever heard. So again Thank You I am in your debt. I will say it again without you these blanket chests would not be standing right meow.




THANK YOU!!!!!!




:smile::smile:


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Peter, it has been my pleasure. Everybody started out by asking those same questions. Few things in life are better than woodworking and seeing a project come together.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

Below are pictures of the finished blanket chests. This project really helped me and @Mike asked me what I learned today. In the moment my answer was finishing because I have never finished anything before. However, now that I have been given some time to reflect and actually think about the question I learned so much more. Yes I learned a ton about wood working, the different joints, techniques, wood, equipment and math. Oh boy math more math than I have done in a long time, which was refreshing. The people that were willing to provide the knowledge to help me along the way, and not only that but the people and companies that were willing to help. The most important lesson was learning about me. In the 5 years of dealing with this deploying to Afghanistan a side which is different, this was "all about me". While I had the support of most importantly my Wife because without her this "project" would have never happened. Which makes me realize that she knew all along this wasn't about the finished product, or the process of making it but learning about me. The support, knowledge and experiences of people I have never met, the support of companies and organizations, I will even give a shout out to Tommy Mac because watching one of his shows helped me (sometimes I have a hard time with the Boston accent Sorry Tommy, If I remember correctly it was the federal embellishment episode in season 4) but this was all about me and what I could do. I learned what I could really do despite my injury /illness. I was able to create something that most people don't want to or cannot comprehend to do, despite my daily struggles. I learned how to get around those daily struggles and completing a part of the project that fit those struggles. The best part is I found something I enjoy doing, can do and have the support of my Wife (most importantly), but also Mike, a community when I need technical support. It doesn't require me to move an ammo can 100 yards, or ruck march 15 miles in 25 minutes (a little embellishment), or something physical that is so often how the Army judges its personnel. It is something I can do and be proud of both during and the end results. My wife already has projects lined up for me to complete. Which will allow me the enjoy the therapy wood working provides but also the opportunity to share the therapy of wood working.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Peter you did a great job on those chests, and you have a right to be proud of them and of yourself for accomplishing this task. Good work, keep at it. 

Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Peter you did a great job on those chests, and you have a right to be proud of them and of yourself for accomplishing this task. Good work, keep at it.
> 
> Herb


well said Herb....
and I'd like to add KUDOS...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Great job Peter. Only goes to prove you can accomplish anything with the right instructions, right tools and the right attitude.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> Great job Peter. Only goes to prove you can accomplish anything with the right instructions, right tools and the right attitude.


he has talent...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> he has talent...


Amen to that!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Bravo Peter, Bravo!!


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Great and with no table saw yet! I suggest you get a plaque made saying its a gift from you. 100 years from now that will be noticed.


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## dp3dp (Sep 14, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> Great and with no table saw yet! I suggest you get a plaque made saying its a gift from you. 100 years from now that will be noticed.


I did not make a plaque but my wife did get me a wood burner for Christmas. I was able to burn my name and date under the front lip in the cedar before giving them as gifts. It was obscure enough but visible if someone is looking as putting it on the bottom did not make sense to me because of the weight. I'm curious to what the actual weight is but my guess is between 50 and 75 pounds. With the weight and how it is constructed it should be around for 100 years plus, which of course met my goal of creating an heirloom piece.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Just seen those chests you built !


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