# Any ideas on how to cut these with a router?



## captain38 (Dec 23, 2008)

First off, I'm a very new woodworker. The first image is for handles for an organic beehive. As I hope you can see from the part that says front view the handles do not extend the length of the hive.

The last two are for a project I'm working on that requires angled rabbits. The project has 4 sides and unfortunately the rabbits can only go the length of the stock on the sides and not on the front and back.

I hope this doesn't confuse anyone too badly...if so I'll be glad to do a much more detailed report. P.S. The drawings are rough and not to scale.


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## scotirish10 (Nov 11, 2008)

I would do it on the table saw. Although I have made fences on a specific angle and used the router. I did not feel safe doing that, though.


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## captain38 (Dec 23, 2008)

I appreciate it, but what about the top photo...any idea?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi captain38

Easy job for the plunge router with a template or a easy to make jig for the router table...
For the handle hole just drill a 3/4" hole in the template and drop it over the trim bit..go around on the inside and you have it done...

see the jig below for the router table ,,

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captain38 said:


> First off, I'm a very new woodworker. The first image is for handles for an organic beehive. As I hope you can see from the part that says front view the handles do not extend the length of the hive.
> 
> The last two are for a project I'm working on that requires angled rabbits. The project has 4 sides and unfortunately the rabbits can only go the length of the stock on the sides and not on the front and back.
> 
> I hope this doesn't confuse anyone too badly...if so I'll be glad to do a much more detailed report. P.S. The drawings are rough and not to scale.


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

I'm a little unclear on your first picture. The front view makes it look like a pocket centered in the width of the board, but not crossing the edges of the board. In the side view, it looks like it is a 1/2 round slot (bird's mouth?) running all the way across the board face. Which is it? 

If it is a pocket, you will never with a router bit get the tight corners you have drawn. No matter how small a bit you choose, the corners will always be rounded. I would suggest you consider some hand chiseling to make the pocket.

If it is a slot, you could rough the slot on a table saw by cutting first the back wall which looks flat and square, then drop the blade and slide over, make another pass. Drop the blade, slide over, make another pass, etc. You will get a stepped curve but that can be cleaned up with a chisel also.


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## scotirish10 (Nov 11, 2008)

I guess I was "out to lunch" last night when I looked at this. For some reason, I claim a Senior Moment, I thought these were to be cut along the edge not on the end. Sorry, I know agree with BobJ a template would work.


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## hgporter (Feb 26, 2007)

I'd make a jig that included wedges cut at 15 degrees to either rotate the board off the table or from the plane of the fence. If this is not clear, reply and I'll try to elaborate.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

There's little detail in the images, but if the item is hollow and you have access to a jig saw and drill.


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## captain38 (Dec 23, 2008)

I'm trying to load some more detailed photos. However, I've already maxed out my 100mb on flickr. What is the best way to put pics up? Anytime that I tried to do manage attachments it says either file upload failed or can't upload files because of some security thing. How do y'all upload files in those nice neat little groups down at the bottom?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi captain38

You need to upload the pictures to the forum, you are now using a URL link.
or you can use 
http://tinypic.com/

then upload your file to tinypic . com and they will resize your picture and give you a URL address that you can put in your post..

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captain38 said:


> I'm trying to load some more detailed photos. However, I've already maxed out my 100mb on flickr. What is the best way to put pics up? Anytime that I tried to do manage attachments it says either file upload failed or can't upload files because of some security thing. How do y'all upload files in those nice neat little groups down at the bottom?


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## captain38 (Dec 23, 2008)

bobj3,
I am trying to do what you are saying...I go to manage attachments then I browse...find the picture(s) that I want and hit upload. Then it tells me upload failed. I'm confused.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI captain

The files must be in the right format, see below, the picture below will show the formats that the forum will take.. plus the file should not be to big..

If you still have a error use the http://tinypic.com/

Note ****I see you use big file names,,rename the file to i.e. myfile_1.jpg and so on
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captain38 said:


> bobj3,
> I am trying to do what you are saying...I go to manage attachments then I browse...find the picture(s) that I want and hit upload. Then it tells me upload failed. I'm confused.


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## captain38 (Dec 23, 2008)

Here is the cut that I am most interested in. I need to make an angle cut approximately like shown. the trouble is that I want to dovetail all of the corners and therefore I can't run the rabbit the length of the stock. I would also really like to do these angle cuts with the router if at all possible. Thoughts, questions?


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Make an angled sled to put the work piece on and run it through the router table using a straight bit. Sounds like you want to stop short of the ends so you can just use two stops on the fence or table, one at the front and one at the back.

If you do not have a table I will leave it up to someone else to suggest a method, but you will need some kind of jig to hold the piece at an angle with a stop at the front and back.


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## captain38 (Dec 23, 2008)

*the other cut*

this is what the other cut I am wanting to make looks like. It's like a recessed handle that slopes out until it is flush with the piece again.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi captain

I think I would try and use the bit below..you may neat to tweak the board just little bit when you pass it by the bit..(lift it up with stock under it)


Multi-Sided Glue Joint Router Bits
sometimes called a bird mouth bit
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_door.html#glue_joint_anchor


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## captain38 (Dec 23, 2008)

Nick I appreciate it. Any way that you could guide me in the right direction for making a good angled sled. Plans anywhere or past experience. Also, I guess I would just have to chisel out the corners correct?


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## captain38 (Dec 23, 2008)

Thanks bobj3...that's an interesting bit that I hadn't seen before. I would just have to make sure that it would go deep enough (1/2") and be at just the right angle (17 degrees i believe) in order to drop the top piece into the rabbit just right.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

You mean at the stopping point becasue you can not route all the way through, to square them up yes, but probably very little.

I never had to make a jig like that so I would just be making it up as I went.

Bobj3 is the jig man around here maybe he has something like it to look at. I think you should just start making something and when all is said and done you will be the man to ask about a cut like this.

Do you have a table saw? 

If I have time I will try to draw something up.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI captain

Here's one more shot, it's a big bit ,3pcs,set the one on the left is the one I would use or the one on the far right,,,  the one on the left is about 2" in diam.and about 1 3/4" tall ..

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captain38 said:


> Thanks bobj3...that's an interesting bit that I hadn't seen before. I would just have to make sure that it would go deep enough (1/2") and be at just the right angle (17 degrees i believe) in order to drop the top piece into the rabbit just right.


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## captain38 (Dec 23, 2008)

I don't have a table saw myself, but I do have access to one. I have some of my own ideas on what I could possibly do...but I'm not convinced that they are the best way to go about doing these angled rabbits. I would like something that was quick and effecient for potential small production purposes...while still retaining quality as numero uno! Who knows, I may pioneer a jig for a very small niche of people out there to use! ha! Any and all help is appreciated seeing that I've only been at this for about 2 months now.


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## captain38 (Dec 23, 2008)

Hey Bobj3,

I like the looks of the one on the left as well The only thing I'm thinking is that I would still have to come at the bit with the stock at some sort of angle somehow or another in order to achieve that 17degree angle. 
p.s. I hope I don't sound like a broken record saying this...I appreciate your help!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi captain

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...tml/pages/bt_door.html#multisided_glue_anchor

see below


Forgot one just added the last one (picture)
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## captain38 (Dec 23, 2008)

Yeah, that's lookin' pretty good there bobj3.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi captain
> 
> see below
> 
> ======


We think 180 Bob. I would have oriented the wedge the opposite way. And I would glue the wedge to a bottom piece so the entire unit could slide by the bit instead of just pushing the piece by the bit while riding on the wedge. This way you could secure the work to the wedge and make sure as you are pushing your piece it does not move around on the wedge. Plus you do not need to figure out how to attach the wedge at just the right place on the table itself.


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## captain38 (Dec 23, 2008)

Any way that you can help me visualize this nick?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Nick

That would work if he only had to do one piece but it looks like he needs to do 4 boards,, once it's glue that's ,need to make 3 more just the same way, making one is going to be hard...let alone 4 long ones...,then you need to get it off once it's glued, that's tricky...
Once it's clamp on the table it's set to do as many boards as he needs to do..

But I think by using the bird mouth bit he will not need a wedge support board..it looks like it's right on the money..
it's one of the items he will need to play with just a little bit I think ...

But he may need to use the table saw to get this one done,the way the bit must spin may be a error I think after taking as hard look at it... if the board was 2 " square no big deal but it's a tall board..so to speak...
double rip on the table saw should do the trick..
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nickao65 said:


> We think 180 Bob. I would have oriented the wedge the opposite way. And I would glue the wedge to a bottom piece so the entire unit could slide by the bit instead of just pushing the piece by the bit while riding on the wedge. This way you could secure the work to the wedge and make sure as you are pushing your piece it does not move around on the wedge. Plus you do not need to figure out how to attach the wedge at just the right place on the table itself.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

What? I think I explained my self wrong becasue the work piece would not be glued down at all. 

Once the jig I propose is set up he should be able to knock out tons of them. 

The wedge would be glued to a board and the work piece clamped to that with one or two clamps. Clamp in the work piece, slide by the bit, undo the clamps and put in another work piece, clamp and slide by the bit again.

It would be just like a coping sled but the base would have a permanently affixed wedge to give him the correct angle.

It's always better to do the explaining with pictures don't have time.

I have to get in the shop myself right now, I have been organizing and cleaning for three days and finally am ready to start making some sawdust. I will post some project pics next week or the week after I have a bucnh of inlay running behind.


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

Hi Captain I know what you want for the handles. Normally they are done with a shaper head on a horozontal shaft. I have made thousands of handles for beehives using dado cutters on a circular saw. Just clamp a stop front and rear of the blades and lower the board onto the front stop then push to the other stop and hey presto you have a handle. They are not as pretty as the other style but work well. The rebate in the other drawing looks like the frame rest on the super end.We ran the board over a buzzer giving a square rebate.


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