# Rust Removal From My Table Saw TOP



## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

Never let someone barrow your table saw. I have a nearly new saw, and I made the a fore mentioned mistake. The saw top now has a bit of rust on it. It is cast iron. I have read several articles and noted many products are listed. This is my question. Years a go while still farming, we had plow shears that would rust if not protected. We put Coke Syrup on these shears. It removed as well as protected the shears from rust. 

I realize this is going to be a bit sticky, but I just wondered if any one else has ever used this on a saw table top. It will clean off very quickly with vinegar. I do not want to put something on the top that is going to create more damage. It looks like the rust is not deep and will clean with elbow grease and a rust remover. Thanks, any thoughts are welcome.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Frank 
I think I would stick to elbow grease, then paste wax the top and keep it out of the weather


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Tagwatts1 said:


> Never let someone barrow your table saw. I have a nearly new saw, and I made the a fore mentioned mistake. The saw top now has a bit of rust on it. It is cast iron. I have read several articles and noted many products are listed. This is my question. Years a go while still farming, we had plow shears that would rust if not protected. We put Coke Syrup on these shears. It removed as well as protected the shears from rust.
> 
> I realize this is going to be a bit sticky, but I just wondered if any one else has ever used this on a saw table top. It will clean off very quickly with vinegar. I do not want to put something on the top that is going to create more damage. It looks like the rust is not deep and will clean with elbow grease and a rust remover. Thanks, any thoughts are welcome.




Frank,

I think that the Coke Syrup would work just fine in that it would keep air and mositiure from coming into contact with the cast iron. The problem however would be adding it and removing it on a regular basis, but for long term strorage it should work. In many cases however one's TS is used on such a regular basis that the syrup removeable every few days or so would get to be a real pain in my opinion.

A year or so ago a tornado took part of the roof off the tin building that my shop tools are in. Everything was drenched and all of the cast iron tables turned to solid rust. At first I was horrified. Then I realized that the rust probably was only surface rust as the time element was short. Sooooo I took a chance and put some 220 grit paper on my palm sander, didn't own a ROS at that time. I then put a liberal coat of WD 40 on the cast iron surfaces and went for it, the surface rust came off alright, it took some time but the surfaces on the TS, BS and jointer looked like brand new after a fashion and I was able to breath easy again.

A short time later I was advised to wax the cast iron with Johnson's wax, which really id work well for me as far as being able to easlly wipe off any dirt and grim that settled on the surfaces. 

I have used up most of that first can of wax and it has almost turned to a liquid, probably due tot he heat in the shop during the summer. It no longer has the effect on the cast iron as it did, it's time to buy a new can of wax and I will do that soon.

I do try to keep the cast iron covered with some sort of cloth sheets when the tools are not in use, this minimizes the grit and grim from accumulating, and the surfaces are easily wiped clean or the air hose will blow what little grit may have settled even with the coverings in place. My shop is in a relatively dirty environment, farm land all around and lots of wind here in West Texas. 

You will probably get several good answers to your thread, most of which will be more sophisticated than mine, I'm just relating my personal experience for what it's worth.

Do let us know how things come out, I doubt if your TS is going to be hurt much from the rust on it's table.

Jerry


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## Bryan Rocker (Jul 10, 2014)

I personally use Johnson paste wax a green scrubby maybe some steel wool with an application of WD40 at the start gets most if not all rust out. Just keep in mind if you have cast iron you will have rust its just a matter of when......

Bryan


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

One of our members tried Trend Tool and Bit cleaner and said it worked well. Vinegar is acetic acid and Coke syrup is phosphoric acid so I personally would avoid using either one.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Chuck; why? Phosphoric acid is a very common agent for removing rust prior to painting steel. I've used it and it works like a charm. However, having said that, there are certainly more user friendly products; I've started using* Autosol* in the past couple of years and I love the stuff!
Halfords Autosol Metal Polish 75g Customer Ratings & Reviews - Top & Best Rated Products
It leaves a protective layer (wax?) on the surface that seems to protect for a long time after application.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Rust Free and T9 from Boshield. Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication

Rust Free is a very mild acid, when needed for flash rust (i live near Lake Michigan, unheated/un-air conditioned garage), i apply with a Scotch Bright pad and wipe off quickly. The T9 is a protectant that keeps the rust away the vast majority of the time so i don't need the Rust Free very often. Unlike carbonated beverages, it's slick after putting it on. I prefer the T9 to wax just because it's a liquid spray that can be wiped on with no build-up. 

I do use the Trend Bit & Blade Cleaner for cleaning bits and blades, awesome stuff for its intended purpose. I think the T9 could be used after cleaning those, but i never have. I clean saw blades and router bits regularly, and I'm always amazed at how much pitch comes off after cutting not much hardwood.

Your mileage may vary.

earl


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

There is a very small amount of acid in Coke and similar products which is why it will clean copper coins etc.

I would stick with the common cleaning agents.

For small areas, I use WD40 and elbow grease.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

+1 what James said.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

A paste made from "Bar Keepers Friend" and "WD-40", a green "Scotch-brite" pad and an orbital sander will do wonders to clean the rust off. Wipe the residue completely off and then apply a light coat of just WD-40. Let it soak in for a few minutes, then wipe the excess off. Let the saw sit overnight before proceeding.

Then apply "Butchers" or "Johnsons" paste wax after the top has been completely cleaned off. You can also use the paste wax applied with a toothbrush to the gears and ways under the table. It makes a great lubricant that develops a crust when it dries that repels sawdust and prevents it from building up on these parts. Your saw will be easy to clean and adjust for several years. Re-wax the top whenever your wood doesn't seem to slide across the saw easily or whenever you clean the saw.

Charley


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Frank I had some rust on my old Grizzly saw also. I used a product called 'Krud Kutter' I got from Amazon. Although it will remove the rust it will also prevent rust from returning. We still use a generous coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on all cast iron in the shop. Not all Johnson's wax is silicone free, only use the wax that is labeled 'Johnson's Paste Wax' . The rust remover product is a water based product, and is non toxic. Read the reviews, and I for one can highly recommend it.

Amazon.com: KRUD KUTTER MR32 The Must For Rust, 32-Ounce Trigger Spray: Home Improvement 

Dick


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

*Rusty table saw*



Tagwatts1 said:


> Never let someone barrow your table saw. I have a nearly new saw, and I made the a fore mentioned mistake. The saw top now has a bit of rust on it. It is cast iron. I have read several articles and noted many products are listed. This is my question. Years a go while still farming, we had plow shears that would rust if not protected. We put Coke Syrup on these shears. It removed as well as protected the shears from rust.
> 
> I realize this is going to be a bit sticky, but I just wondered if any one else has ever used this on a saw table top. It will clean off very quickly with vinegar. I do not want to put something on the top that is going to create more damage. It looks like the rust is not deep and will clean with elbow grease and a rust remover. Thanks, any thoughts are welcome.


My Delta 10 inch has a cast top on it. It used to get surface rust just sitting there. I cleaned it with fine grit 00 and WD40. then cleaned it all off. I them spray it lightly with sewing machine oil. Wipe it all off and keep it covered when not in use. It stays nice and the guide just zips across the table.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

plus 2 on the rust off and T9 ,, i live in frorida and use that on all my tables and no rust, as far as wax, i wouldn't use that, if any get's on the wood and you don't get it all sanded off the finish won't stick the item, my 2 cents


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

del schisler said:


> plus 2 on the rust off and T9 ,, i live in frorida and use that on all my tables and no rust, as far as wax, i wouldn't use that, if any get's on the wood and you don't get it all sanded off the finish won't stick the item, my 2 cents



Del,
I have never found that to be a problem.

Jerry


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## bluewood (Nov 26, 2013)

I used phosphoric acid to remove rust from all my old rusty tools it works great. All my tools are sprayed with "CAT dry film lubricant aerosol 242-6990" it prevents rust.
After using it on my TS, I let it dry then wipe off the excess with a cotton cloth. The CAT film is what is used on the hydraulic rams on heavy equipment.
My TS is a Sears and the top is AL not cast iron, but everything else I use it on is steel or iron.


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## Garyk (Dec 29, 2011)

There is a product called "Bullfrog" that was developed by the US Naval lab that works well too. I think Rockler still has it. They have all sorts of items to remove & control rust. Even some strips to put in your cabinets & drawers to protect your tools.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> Chuck; why? Phosphoric acid is a very common agent for removing rust prior to painting steel. I've used it and it works like a charm. However, having said that, there are certainly more user friendly products; I've started using* Autosol* in the past couple of years and I love the stuff!
> Halfords Autosol Metal Polish 75g Customer Ratings & Reviews - Top & Best Rated Products
> It leaves a protective layer (wax?) on the surface that seems to protect for a long time after application.


I've heard, but never tried it, that you can disolve a nail by putting it in a bottle of coke. It may disolve the rust but what else is it doing? There safer products to use so that's why I wouldn't recommend it. In it's concentrated form I've heard thatCoke syrup is considered a dangerous good and has to be placarded as highly corrosive. I heard once that it has a ph of 2.9 in that form which is highly acidic. With something as precious as a TS top I would rather not take a chance.


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## mlerchenmuller (Sep 26, 2011)

+1 what Earl wrote. Works great. Use it regularly and it will keep your surface clean and smooth.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> There is a very small amount of acid in Coke and similar products which is why it will clean copper coins etc.
> 
> I would stick with the common cleaning agents.
> 
> For small areas, I use WD40 and elbow grease.


+1. Here's what I use on my saws:
WD40 and a scotch type scrub pad. If a little more is needed , then CMT Tool and Bit Cleaner, which seems similar to Trend's and is easier and cheaper for me to get here where I live.

I use paste wax (there are more than just Johnson's brand = the brand doesn't matter) on my cast iron. Have done that for years, since I was a kid, then paid to do tha as a carpenter and working on assembly lines.

I do not add grease to mechanisms. It will attract dust, which will wear the mechanisms faster with that added grit. Instead, I use a Teflon based lubricant (I use a Teflon based gum oil).


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## thomas1389 (Jan 4, 2012)

There was a comparison test done by Thomas McKenna of Fine Woodworking published in the July/August 2012 issue. There were 20 commonly available rust preventers tested on a cast iron saw table top. The best overall was CRC Industrial 3-36. (from Amazon at the time). Also tops were plain old WD40 and Moovit from Lee Valley. WD40 would be best for storage. It's an interesting article. I personally have used Boeshield T9 and have had good results. Good paste wax helps too when storing for periods during the coldest winter times. I apply preventer then cover the top with a close fitting piece of corrugated cardboard cut to fit and lay flat. A big sheet of plastic keeps the dust off while it sits at the back of the garage till the temp creeps above zero.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

thomas1389 said:


> There was a comparison test done by Thomas McKenna of Fine Woodworking published in the July/August 2012 issue. There were 20 commonly available rust preventers tested on a cast iron saw table top. The best overall was CRC Industrial 3-36. (from Amazon at the time). Also tops were plain old WD40 and Moovit from Lee Valley. WD40 would be best for storage. It's an interesting article. I personally have used Boeshield T9 and have had good results. Good paste wax helps too when storing for periods during the coldest winter times. I apply preventer then cover the top with a close fitting piece of corrugated cardboard cut to fit and lay flat. A big sheet of plastic keeps the dust off while it sits at the back of the garage till the temp creeps above zero.


Remember that I have consistent 80% to 100% humidity here. I use WD-40 for "cleanup." Even when working on a production line, for cleanup. Just like other rust cleaning solvents, they will help clean everything from the metal, such as rust, varnish, etc. including oils and waxes. 

Wax is for use. A paste wax will not transfer anything appreciably to your wood products that will interfere with the finish. It will stay on a while and helps with moving material over the table. Some other products will protect, but the work will stick and catch to them.

It will wear off with use, but in the summers and with use will get into the pores of the cast iron. And is inexpensive. If I found something that worked better than, I would use it... But this is what I've found to be true.

Other rust inhibitors will transfer to your workpiece, sometimes staining it and making the finish process a nightmare. . Many were developed for limited, small dose (area) kind of use... and not meant for treating large areas, such as for a table saw top. I think before recommending a product, you might want to research the precautions of that product. Whatever I use for rust "cleanup", I wipe off, so there is none left. As such, there is not lubricating qualities left, because you wipe the majority of it off, so there is no residue.

For example, CRC Industrial 3-36 is a great lubricant for weapons, such as pistols and rifles, on small internal parts where someone is not in contact with... But look at the MSDS on that product (refer to health risks and classifications of):
http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/msds/3006.pdf <-- Note as an irritant and a class 3 narcotic...

On use for a large area where someone would come into contact with, with a greater dose than usual, the health risks may be too great to risk. Especially to someone who is sensitive to that. 

Just want to keep people safe. This is just how I see it. I've had to keep my (past) workers and apprentices safe. There are a lot of products that will work, but we need to keep in mind that if you put something as public, that it needs to be safe, openly available and usually, not cost prohibitive. This may seem paranoid, but this also tries to keep me safe from legal and OSHA "actions."


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## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

First let me say big thank you to all of you helped me with this. I think at this point from what has been written, I will try using the WD-40 and a light sandpaper. If it cleans as well as I want, I am going to put the Johnson Wax to the test. Again, your thoughts and help have most welcome. I am going to go to work on it Saturday. I will get back tell you how it turns out.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Frank, I have always used WD-40 and a purple Scotchbrite. I follow this with Johnsons paste wax. As others have pointed out, Johnsons paste wax is not the only paste wax available. It's important to use a paste floor type wax, as automotive waxes will leave a residue that can stain your wood.


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## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

Thanks again for all your input. it appears there are as many cures as there are reasons that rust. I appreciate all who have responded. I might add that, I tried different remedies on different tools and saws and blades. They all seem to work equally well WD 40 is easiest to come by so I will continue to use it. On my hand tools, I found the Coke Syrup to do the best job. So it is what ever you are able to get and what you feel comfortable with.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

DeWalt random orbital sander 220 or320 grit rubdown with 0000 steel wool then wax, and never loan out your saw or ever let any one put any liquid on it ever---it's your shop after all!!! BTW I am fortunate my shop is fully airconditioned


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"...and never loan out your saw..."
Words to live by!
In past chats about this I've mentioned that I have a (very) few friends that I know and trust to look after my tools, because I see how they look after their own.
From them I will always get my tool back in as good, if not better, condition than I lent it.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi frank, are you using the mixed syrup or undiluted?

I used to work for a transport company that used to carry the Pepsi syrup. The carton had 2 parts, one for the syrup and one for the phosphoric acid.

If you are just using the syrup, the acid may not have been added?


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## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

I did get the right syrup, but because of ease of cleaning, I have decided to use WD 40 and the 00 grit sand paper. I Tried this on a couple of other items first and think this will clear up my rust issue. The bigger issue is to neve loan expensive tools to anyone again.


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## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

Thanks once again for all the input. I will get the job finished today on my saw. I really do appreciate the knowledge and info that is put forth from this group of people. Thanks


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Can verify the fix with sanding and WD40 . I went to my garage yesterday and when I removed a board that had been sitting on my tablesaw for the last few weeks , I almost fell over as the moisture from the 2/8 had rusted the cast . 
I thought there was no way it was fixable short of a machine shop . I sprayed with WD40 and used that fine emery cloth type of sand paper on a sanding block and the rust came right off . 
Looks like that GlideCoat I bought from WP is garbage as far as the claimed protection is concerned . 
Will be buying and applying floor wax soon.

Wish I took a pic as you would not have believed the rust that board left behind . Lesson learned I guess


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Yup. I made the mistake of covering my TS. No air movement; humidity was trapped and when the temp fell, voila', RUST!
I use Autosol...very pleased with the product.
Autosol.com


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## RJT501Win (Apr 21, 2012)

Hi Frank
I have read the reply's to your problem to the end of page three and feel that I have something to add.
As per a lot on this forum I use WD40.
Put 400 wet & dry (as used in car panel repairs) on my random orbit sander and sand the surface using WD40 as the lube, wiping of and reapplying regularly.
Keep going changing worn paper as you go until you are happy with the results. You can also use progressively finer paper to get a shiner finish. 
Don't be tempted to use courser paper to speed up the job as you will get scratches that are hell to get out. Been down that track!

NOW I apply a coat of LANOLIN (natural product from sheep wool) Their are a number or different brands in Australia with some being in spray cans.
Lanolin has much finer molecules ( nano particles as in graphite, talcum powder etc) than most other products and actually fits into the pours of steal and stays there.

To finish the job I attach some toweling type material to my random orbit sander and polish the surface. 

There are heaps of application's for Lanolin 100% natural product. Check it out on the internet you will be amazed.

When doing my Joiner I went down to 2000 wet & dry before applying Lanolin and polished it up. Looks like Chrome and no friction.
Did my hand plane the same way.

Hope this helps
Cheers
John T


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## patlaw (Jan 4, 2010)

Which of the products mentioned above is the most aggressive for a table saw? I loaned mine out, and it came back rusty. I've tried several of the products mentioned above without much success. Even those area that I was able to remove rust from still had black pitting in the iron.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Mike; the Autosol is actually more of a very fine cut polish. Not really a chemical reaction with Iron oxide so much as a mechanical 'eraser'.
The general consensus is that it contains Aluminum oxide in the 8000grit range.
Apparently guys use it to get a final mirror finish when sharpening chisels etc. It also acts as a sealer/wax to prevent further oxidation.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

patlaw said:


> Which of the products mentioned above is the most aggressive for a table saw? I loaned mine out, and it came back rusty. I've tried several of the products mentioned above without much success. Even those area that I was able to remove rust from still had black pitting in the iron.


50% acetone 50% ATF and a 3M scrubby to get rid of the rust...
clean w/ turps or simimlar..

then go here... 
cutting fluid and a rubbing stone to lessen or remove the pits...
finish w/ progressively finer grits of wet/dry till you have achieved happiness...
*CIRCULAR MOTIONS ONLY PLEASE*

*the ratios are...*
1 qt. of motor oil to 3 cups of dish washing liquid to 4 gallons of water....
Add the liquid soap to the water. Mix the soap into the water so that it is dissolved. The soap is the catalyst that will enable the oil and the water to mix; otherwise the different densities will make the oil float on top of the water.

*small batch ratios...*

1oz motor oil...
1.5oz dish soap...
32oz water...

divide by two if want still smaller batch...

the rubbing stone...
http://www.toolfetch.com/constructi...k-grinding-discs/rubbing-stones.html?limit=48


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## patlaw (Jan 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> 50% acetone 50% ATF and a 3M scrubby to get rid of the rust...


What's ATF?


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

This might be a bit late for info but I've dry sanded, also used WD-40 on air operated pad sander with 400 grit wet/dry, and elbow grease very successfully. I've also used electrolysis with great success.

Without going into the full restoration of my PM66 table saw, also loaned out to a friend (I agree, NEVER do that!!), here's a before and after shot with the first process mentioned above - 
















And here's the jointer where I used electrolysis and very little elbow grease - 
































If you want to see the entire restoration process on the PM66 you can see it here.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

rjtwin501 said:


> NOW I apply a coat of LANOLIN (natural product from sheep wool) ans.
> 
> Hope this helps
> Cheers
> John T


are there any negative effects/affects to finishes as there are w/ silicone impregnated products???


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

patlaw said:


> What's ATF?


Mike, that should be "Automatic Transmission Fluid".


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

David I would have been devastated if that happened to my table saw .I have had horrible luck lending things out to , and actually started a thread about it before .
Glad to see you got it back to its former glory


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

BrianS said:


> Mike, that should be "Automatic Transmission Fluid".


correct...


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## patlaw (Jan 4, 2010)

difalkner said:


> And here's the jointer where I used electrolysis and very little elbow grease -


I want to learn more about the electrolysis process.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

TheCableGuy said:


> David I would have been devastated if that happened to my table saw .I have had horrible luck lending things out to , and actually started a thread about it before .
> Glad to see you got it back to its former glory


I certainly wasn't thrilled but the restoration process was actually quite rewarding and now the saw is probably better setup and precise than when I bought it new in 1990. But I won't be loaning tools out again, for sure!


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

patlaw said:


> I want to learn more about the electrolysis process.


I'm not sure if it's ok to post a link to another forum other than one owned by this group but I posted the entire process on SMC. If this isn't ok then I can post the process here - don't mind doing that at all. I'll start a new thread if I need to post it here.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

patlaw said:


> I want to learn more about the electrolysis process.


okay...
look to the sublinks and PDF's too...

.





.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Wait...*Head Swivels*...What?!*



patlaw said:


> What's ATF?


:surprise:

Not sure they're into rubbing out rust.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Lanolin? Ewwwe...*



Stick486 said:


> are there any negative effects/affects to finishes as there are w/ silicone impregnated products???


I'd feel a little sheepish about using it...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

David; I'm mightily impressed with the restorations! 
Was there some reason that the loanee let it deteriorate into the state of the before pictures?
Consider giving him a bill for the labour and materials you invested in the repairs; no bloody way should he walk away from this like it never happened.
Folks like that will just find other victims; they don't see themselves as being in the wrong.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"Consider giving him a bill for the labour and materials you invested in the repairs;"
-Me

What's the worst that can happen if you do bill him? He never speaks to you again? 
That would work for me...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> "Consider giving him a bill for the labour and materials you invested in the repairs;"
> -Me
> 
> What's the worst that can happen if you do bill him? He never speaks to you again?
> That would work for me...


me too but in the long run I'd make sure he sees the error of his ways...
and dearly/truly regrets dodging the bill..


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

greenacres2 said:


> Rust Free and T9 from Boshield. Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication earl


I use this and haven't had any rust whatsoever since I first applied it. It is on all my steel tables. Works great is an understatement. I used to use wax, but the T-9 is even better.


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## RJT501Win (Apr 21, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> are there any negative effects/affects to finishes as there are w/ silicone impregnated products???


Not that I have noticed Stick. I have been using it for a lot of years now at my hobby farm mostly.
Actually I try not to use silicone based products if possible
More expensive than most similar use products.
I sprayed it on recently welded and sanded metal panels, it got left out in the weather while I was away. Gave it a wash to remove dust (no rust) and painted it with Industrial Enamel without any further preparation. 
When I had my Hardware store we sold a lot in 4Lt and 10Lt cans mostly to farmers and engineers.

JohnT


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

rjtwin501 said:


> Not that I have noticed Stick. I have been using it for a lot of years now at my hobby farm mostly.
> Actually I try not to use silicone based products if possible
> More expensive than most similar use products.
> I sprayed it on recently welded and sanded metal panels, it got left out in the weather while I was away. Gave it a wash to remove dust (no rust) and painted it with Industrial Enamel without any further preparation.
> ...


thinking in terms of silicone and WD-40 and how they can absolutely ruin a project come finishing time I was wondering if Lanolin will/would do the same...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> 50% acetone 50% ATF and a 3M scrubby to get rid of the rust...
> clean w/ turps or simimlar..
> 
> then go here...
> ...


Worked really well for me...dont forget the elbow grease...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Any chemicals used on sheep (dipping process) can/may/will contaminate the lanolin obtained from the wool...
found a study on what was introduced into cosmetics compliments of Lanolin... scary..
for those sheep injected w/ Ivomec, that'd be an array of concerns come supper...

plow shears is one thing but I'd be prone to keep it off of my woodworking tools...
Lanolin and it's derivatives is/are used as a final finish in timber framing... 
the oil becomes waxy, or processed to be ''waxy'' (Lanolene and Lanotec'') and that is why it works so well as a protectorate.. 
Lanolene and Lanotec are whole subjects in themselves'... 

*"Lanolene, Wool derived Lanolin, Natural Eco-Responsible Renewable Resource Protectants and Lubricants"
Lanotec - Natural Wool Lanolin Products | Products*

but I'm more concerned about *lanolin* getting on the wood from the tools before the finishing process and raising havoc like silicone and WD-40 do...
oh the tears, aggravation and hair pulling... not to mention the hit on the bottom line...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Worked really well for me...dont forget the elbow grease...


ahhhhh...
another happy customer...
if you keep the solution agitated/stirred it works way more gooder...

and don't forget to get the check into the mail...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> 50% acetone 50% ATF and a 3M scrubby to get rid of the rust...clean w/ turps or simimlar..


*Add an equal amount of Kerosene and you have a great barrel cleaner for your firearms. Want to remove lead, add a small amount of Ammonia.*

Other means/methods...for rust removal on handsaw plates, use WD-40 and a razor blade scraper to remove the heavy scale. Then I use Boeshield "Rust Free" (phosphoric acid) and a maroon Scotch Brite pad. I then follow with Johnson's Paste Wax.

The above should work for any flat surface...table saw, jointer, etc.

Point...lots of ways to do this...look around your shop/garage and you probably have everything available already.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> *Add an equal amount of Kerosene and you have a great barrel cleaner for your firearms. Want to remove lead, add a small amount of Ammonia.*
> 
> Other means/methods...for rust removal on handsaw plates, use WD-40 and a razor blade scraper to remove the heavy scale. Then I use Boeshield "Rust Free" (phosphoric acid) and a maroon Scotch Brite pad. I then follow with Johnson's Paste Wax.
> 
> ...


how come you didn't mention heating the formula???


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DesertRatTom said:


> I use this and haven't had any rust whatsoever since I first applied it. It is on all my steel tables. Works great is an understatement. I used to use wax, but the T-9 is even better.


Thanks Tom . Now that I know how to remove it , I would like the best case scenario to seal the dam top . 
I will be trying to source this T-9


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I'm in disbelief . T-9 is actually available at Amazon.ca ? I've practically found next to nothing avalaible on the Canadian site . I gotta pinch myself incase I'm merely dreaming this whole thing up .

https://www.amazon.ca/Boeshield-T-9...&qid=1459182364&sr=8-1&keywords=boeshield+t-9


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> :surprise:
> 
> Not sure they're into rubbing out rust.


Good one Dan. Wish I would have thought of that lol


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"...look around your shop/garage and you probably have everything available already."

Hah! Yeh, but try and find it.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> "...look around your shop/garage and you probably have everything available already."
> 
> Hah! Yeh, but try and find it.


My garage looks like it got hit by the ATF during a raid lol

I get so tired of looking for tools I just them again . Got three of everything dam near


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

TheCableGuy said:


> I'm in disbelief . T-9 is actually available at Amazon.ca ? I've practically found next to nothing avalaible on the Canadian site . I gotta pinch myself incase I'm merely dreaming this whole thing up .
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/Boeshield-T-9...&qid=1459182364&sr=8-1&keywords=boeshield+t-9


HOLY COW, CN$47! That is outrageous! I understand the exchange rate, but I can't believe the tax is that much! I snag a two pack (T-9 and a small pump bottle of Rust Free) at our local Sears store if I catch it just right. It normally runs about $25 USD, but I find it on sale for $15.

A can of T-9 lasts a loooong time, so it is worth it. The Rust Free gets used a lot and goes pretty quick, depending on the subject of the refurb. I picked up two bottles of Blade and Bit cleaner and two Rust Frees for $4 ea. at my local contracting supplier. Old stock piled into a box with a bunch of other aerosols, so it was a deal.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> how come you didn't mention heating the formula???


Not something I would recommend to the uninitiated. Heat it up too much or too fast and it can flash. After the initial scare they may or may not notice that they no longer have any eyebrows! Hopefully, they didn't burn down the homestead.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> "...look around your shop/garage and you probably have everything available already."
> 
> Hah! Yeh, but try and find it.


I feel your pain, Dan!


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

TheCableGuy said:


> My garage looks like it got hit by the ATF during a raid lol
> 
> I get so tired of looking for tools I just them again . Got three of everything dam near


Think about this, Rick. If you insulate, you can put up walls. Once the walls are up, you can build cabinets and shelves, that go against the walls. Now, take all of those items and store them properly in the cabinets and on the shelves.

Once you know where the items are, you don't have to buy duplicates because you can't find something. If you don't spend the money on the duplicates you can now afford to pay $47 for a can of T-9.:wink:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

schnewj said:


> HOLY COW, CN$47! That is outrageous! I understand the exchange rate, but I can't believe the tax is that much! I snag a two pack (T-9 and a small pump bottle of Rust Free) at our local Sears store if I catch it just right. It normally runs about $25 USD, but I find it on sale for $15.
> 
> A can of T-9 lasts a loooong time, so it is worth it. The Rust Free gets used a lot and goes pretty quick, depending on the subject of the refurb. I picked up two bottles of Blade and Bit cleaner and two Rust Frees for $4 ea. at my local contracting supplier. Old stock piled into a box with a bunch of other aerosols, so it was a deal.


We're used to it Bill , as we get screwed on everything . Who else pays over $100 for 3/4" 5/5' sheet of Baltic birch?
To top it off nearly half my income gets deducted


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

TheCableGuy said:


> We're used to it Bill , as we get screwed on everything . Who else pays over $100 for 3/4" 5/5' sheet of Baltic birch?
> To top it off nearly half my income gets deducted


Hmmmm! Based on exchange rate around $75 US. Not bad! At least you have access to real Baltic Birch. I can't find a local retailer in my area.

I'm semi-retired...I finally gave up doing consulting work because I ended up loosing 1/2 of what I made to Federal taxes. So, I understand what you are saying.


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