# New Probotix Meteor



## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

I picked up my new Meteor at the Probotix shop today. It was a long drive home but the Meteor is in its new home in my shop. Here is a photo of Len and me after loading the Meteor for the trip home. I'll post more photos of their facility later this weekend.

Jay


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Cool Beans, Jay. :smile::smile::smile::smile::smile:

Get it going and give me some lessons.

HJ

Needs all the help he can get


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Congrats Jay ! I'm jealous to say the least 
Looking forward to seeing your new toy in action !


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

Whoo Hoo, Jay! Welcome to the Meteor owner's club! And we didn't even have to go rock hunting to catch a stellar rock. If you have any difficulties with it let me know. You aren't too far away for a quick problem solving trip. 

4D


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

Thanks everyone! Wish me luck! I'll keep you up to date on how it goes with my first cut.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

What software you finally decide on?

HJ

Leaning towards the Aspire package


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

I got VCarvePro 8, HJ. I wish I could afford Aspire. It sounds awesome. Maybe someday.....


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

If you have something else that can make 3D models then VCarve 8 may be all you need. Using the gadgets available and creative use of the fluting toolpath we got by with only Vcarve Pro for a year and a half, and all of the projects and samples you (Jay) saw at K-State were done with it if they had any cnc'ed parts in them. The fluting toolpath is capable of quiet a bit of pseudo-3D work all by itself. Version 8 of VCarve will let you import 3D files from most sources and even map 2D/2.5D toolpaths to 3D surfaces.


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

That's what I'm counting on, 4D. I hope VCP will let me do all I need to do with the Meteor.


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

I put more photos of my visit to Probotix shop in Peoria, IL in my gallery album.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Jay, you look like you could be Len's fath............... I mean older brother. lol

Let me know how the software works, and what issues you encounter. I'm still watching the tutorials now that we're back. Gotta admit, it's confusing. Considering taking a beginner CNC course at the local community college this summer.

HJ

Hoping an old dog can learn new tricks


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

I am starting to hate the word VECTOR.

HJ


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

honesttjohn said:


> I am starting to hate the word VECTOR.
> 
> HJ


You and me both John . A few years back I tried several times to convert pdf files of model airplane parts to Vector only to find Laser cut 5.4 wouldn't recognize the file .
I'm not a very patient person to begin with so sometimes I had to walk away before I started breaking things lol.
I think once I get this stuff figured out I'll be wondering why I found it so foreign and intimidating at one time . Just have to much darn stuff to do first before I can dedicate my time to learning .
Hopefully you get this mastered and I can ask you when the time comes


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

A vector is nothing more than a line. Simply defined by two end points.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

4DThinker said:


> A vector is nothing more than a line. Simply defined by two end points.


Yup I got the jist of it . Just can't seem to take a simple silhouette of something and convert it to a vector . Well at least my lasers program won't recognize the file type after I think it's converted . Don't even remember which software I tried as it was a year ago but I sure liked what I seen on YouTube with Aspire


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

I'm no graphic designer, and rarely need a drawing other than a rectangle or simple polygon for the kind of work I do. For those that want to make signs and use characters or text in their signs I doubt many can draw original profiles either. The secret is to find a photo of what you want then let VCarve create a vector outline of it you can then cut. Google or Bing image search is a great resource. You want to stay away from trademarked/copyrighted images, but that still leaves a few billion out there to find. 

Describe something you want a profile of. I'll make you a vector outline of it and send you the .CRV file. VCarve has a Trace Bitmap function that is pretty good at drawing outlines of solid shapes you import or drag then drop onto the board area. 

4D


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

honesttjohn said:


> Jay, you look like you could be Len's fath............... I mean older brother. lol
> 
> HJ
> 
> Hoping an old dog can learn new tricks


I thought the same thing, HJ! Even in person I felt we looked like we are related. Len's a great guy. He spent all the time I needed answering my questions and showing me the basics of LinuxCNC.


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

Go back far enough and we are all related, aren't we? 

Back to business. Thanks for posting the photos of your visit Jay. Wondering if you got a sense of how busy they were making CNCs while you were there? Noticed the CNC mills in one photo. Guessing they make all the aluminum brackets/parts for their CNCs with them. I'd love to get a custom set of gantry risers that had the gantry beam an inch or two higher, and used a 60mm x 60mm beam instead of the 30mm x 60mm beam. 

4D


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

4DThinker said:


> Guessing they make all the aluminum brackets/parts for their CNCs with them. I'd love to get a custom set of gantry risers that had the gantry beam an inch or two higher, and used a 60mm x 60mm beam instead of the 30mm x 60mm beam.
> 
> 4D


Could a different gantry be special ordered? 
Maybe if enough clients mention the problem they may listen , but then again 


The one I want to order from cncparts.com has 8" of travel and 12" is an option .Is this neccesary very often ?


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> The one I want to order from cncparts.com has 8" of travel and 12" is an option .Is this neccesary very often ?


It all depends on what you'll be cutting. We often bump into the Z limit when we are cutting thick 8/4 or so wood. What most don't realize is that you need more than clearance for the wood. The bit has to be able to back out of the wood as well. The Meteor or Nebula also have a chunk of the Z axis that moves up and down with the router and so if you need 2" of bit clear below that, and 2" to cut into the wood, the 3" or so travel comes up 1" short. The only way to get the 5" claimed for these models is to mount the MDF board on the bottom of the frame rather than on top. I do get to use some of that travel though when we have the t-track off and frame opened up.


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

4DThinker said:


> Go back far enough and we are all related, aren't we?
> 
> Back to business. Thanks for posting the photos of your visit Jay. Wondering if you got a sense of how busy they were making CNCs while you were there? Noticed the CNC mills in one photo. Guessing they make all the aluminum brackets/parts for their CNCs with them. I'd love to get a custom set of gantry risers that had the gantry beam an inch or two higher, and used a 60mm x 60mm beam instead of the 30mm x 60mm beam.
> 
> 4D


It looked to me that they could mill almost anything they needed. Your risers might lead to a new model for them. They seem to respond to customers asking for changes by offering them later as options to current models. I'd ask Len if he could make some for you.


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

I got my Meteor assembled and everything seems to move like it's supposed to. It homes fine and if I click 'load the first tool', it moves to the center front and then to the tool length sensor. If it does all that, I must have done something right. I asked Len about assembly instructions and he said it was all on the Wiki. The video I found on the Wiki showed how to assemble a Comet but used a different control box with slightly different cabling. Their cabling is pretty fool-proof but a connection diagram for the new box would have given me some peace of mind when I threw the power switch for the first time. Now on to designing and cutting my first project.


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

Have you decided what/how to clamp your project boards down yet Jay? Using double stick tape can get pretty old after awhile. Screwing parts into the MDF top can also get pretty old as well, and eventually you'll have to replace the MDF.

4D


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## SHIREHORSE1 (May 3, 2011)

Hi can you please tell me what a "Meteor" is - the only one I knew was a jet aircraft - I'm a bit new to this site and I'm sure there is an obvious wood working answer - thanks -Shirehorse2 from New Zealand


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

Meteor is simply a name given to a 25" x 50" CNC model made by Probotix.com=: FireBall Meteor CNC Router - FireBall Meteor 
They also have a 25" x 25" Comet: FireBall Comet CNC Router - CNC Router - FireBall Comet
and a 25" x 37" Asteroid: FireBall Asteroid CNC Router - FireBall Asteroid
and a 37" x 50" Nebula: Nebula CNC Router - Nebula CNC Router

They also make a couple of kits if you would rather assemble your own small CNC... 
V90: FireBall V90 CNC Router -
X90: FireBall X90 CNC Router -


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

cjskelton said:


> I got my Meteor assembled and everything seems to move like it's supposed to. It homes fine and if I click 'load the first tool', it moves to the center front and then to the tool length sensor. If it does all that, I must have done something right. I asked Len about assembly instructions and he said it was all on the Wiki. The video I found on the Wiki showed how to assemble a Comet but used a different control box with slightly different cabling. Their cabling is pretty fool-proof but a connection diagram for the new box would have given me some peace of mind when I threw the power switch for the first time. Now on to designing and cutting my first project.


Good to hear Jay !  
I would be pretty excited right about now .


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

I finished my first test project today on my new Probotix Meteor. I also had my first oops, too. LOL. I designed a simple placque and cut it just fine. I then decided to add a profile toolpath to cut it out. The design was done with a v-bit and when I changed to the 1/4" endmill I used the tool length sensor instead of touching off the Z again. When I hit Play, it dropped down and did a deep, plunging cut into the material. I was lucky the double stick tape held. Once it went around the toolpath twice I hit emergency stop and moved the router out of the way. When I popped the project off the table I found a nice placque shaped groove cut in my spoilboard. OOPS! If I hadn't stopped it, it may have cut all the way through. I guess that's why they call it a spoilboard and why there is an emergency stop. The placque turned out just how I wanted it so that part of the job was a success. Live and learn, I guess. On to the next project.....


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

Nicely done, Jay! 

I'm curious about the tool length sensor and why it didn't work as I would expect it should. Are you using VCarve Pro and the new post processor Probotix made for it for the tool paths?

If your tool paths used the top of the material as a start depth, and the v-bit was "Z"ero'd out to the top of the plaque material then once you changed the bit that sensor should have set the new bit bottom to the same top surface for z=0. 

4D


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

I asked Len which post-processor to use and he said to use the LinuxCNC(inch). I probably didn't use the tool length sensor correctly. I'll ask him about the correct procedure to use when changing bits and using the tool length sensor. I thought I used it on the first bit but may have lost the data when I loaded the file.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

That's pretty dam impressive for your first attempt at a sign Jay , you must be a quick study . Dam I'm jealous right about now lol


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

Thanks RainMan1! I watched a lot of tutorials and downloaded the trial version of VCarvePro and practiced what I learned. I have a long way to go but I thought I did good for the first try.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

http://www.routerforums.com/picture.php?pictureid=1082&albumid=74&dl=1429575320&thumb=1

Good show, Jay !!! Only took you 2 days to make progress while it took me 2 months..........and 2 broken bits...... and a few pieces of nice wood turned to scrap ........ and some choice words .....and a lot of FRUSTRATION!

I guess it can be done, even by "seasoned" citizens.

HJ

Has new hope


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

honesttjohn said:


> http://www.routerforums.com/picture.php?pictureid=1082&albumid=74&dl=1429575320&thumb=1
> 
> Good show, Jay !!! Only took you 2 days to make progress while it took me 2 months..........and 2 broken bits...... and a few pieces of nice wood turned to scrap ........ and some choice words .....and a lot of FRUSTRATION!
> 
> ...


Nice sign, HJ! You are doing great. All it takes is a little Know-How and some determination.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

On another note, 4D has a point about clamping. I used some carpet and double sided tape to hold things down, but it's not that great for bigger pieces. I lost one 3' board 1/2 done when it came loose. That MDF on the bed doesn't like sticky stuff too very well.
I ended up screwing this one into the bed. 

Was thinking of either putting another layer of MDF on top of the factory bed and just throwing it away when it gets used up, or doing a system like 4D did with his. Rockler has a 28 x 40 clamping table that was on sale for 179$. But then you got to buy the clamps xtra.

4D, how much you got invested in your Meteor table at the house, and how much trouble was it to do?

HJ

Looking for suggestions


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Jay,

Did you ever get your adapter to work?? Or did you use a thumbdrive??

I watched those tutorials, some more than once, and that guy with the British accent just kept moving step by faster step, assuming everybody knew what he was talking about. That was one of the more frustrating things. If I knew what he was talking about I wouldn't have to watch the darn things.

HJ

Onward and Upward


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

honesttjohn said:


> 4D, how much you got invested in your Meteor table at the house, and how much trouble was it to do?
> 
> HJ
> 
> Looking for suggestions


For my Meteor I used six 4' lengths of 1/4" t-track from LeeValley.com, $13.50 a stick. The MDF between them was all from less than one half of a 3/4" 4x8 sheet. Your price will vary depending on where you live. 1/4-20 brass insert nuts (50ish) , and 14/20 nylon screws (50ish) hold the MDF strips down. 

I bought 6 clamps: PVC Tipped Aluminum Hold Down - 1/4" x 20 - - Amazon.com 

You can also make your own. I posted a downloadable VCarve file for a clamp design I made at the CNCsharktalk.com forum: CNC Shark Forum ? View topic - Wood Clamps. My Design.

4D


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great result for the first attempt, Jay.


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

Here's an easy project that I'm making for my Bro-in-Law who owns a '69 Chevelle. A set of Super Sport coasters. This is a prototype.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Neat - using MDF?

HJ


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## cjskelton (Feb 27, 2015)

honesttjohn said:


> Neat - using MDF?
> 
> HJ


I had a scrap piece of cherry. I save all my hardwood cutoffs. Now I have a use for them. LOL


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

cjskelton said:


> I had a scrap piece of cherry. I save all my hardwood cutoffs. Now I have a use for them. LOL


Exactly what I do with my hardwood scraps. They've come in very handy for the joinery detail samples I cut for my students. Scraps of plywood come in handy for the occasional jig I'll make for students to clamp parts at unusual angles to the CNC cross bar. Thin scraps I'll save to shim my CNC projects off the MDF strip/t-track bed when I need to cut through.

4D


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