# Getting started with router bits



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

New members often post questions about which bits they should buy. Here are some tips to help understand what you need in your collection and why. Let's start with quality. You do not need to spend the money on premium bits when you begin. Premium bits stay sharp longer and can be resharpened more times than standard bits but most new users will do fine using inexpensive average quality bits. Keep in mind you may be able to replace an average bit for less than sharpening a premium bit. Next let's consider the cutting edge of the bit. A bit with an angled cutting edge will cut cleaner than a bit with a straight edge; spiral cutting edges do an even better job. Straight cutting edge bits are the easiest to manufacture and cost less than angled or spiral bits. High speed steel (HSS) vs carbide: While HSS works fine cutting metal where coolant can be used to dissipate heat, wood can easily overheat the cutting edge causing it to turn blue and lose it's sharpness. For this reason carbide works better. Shank size: Many routers are still limited to 1/4" collets. This limits your cutter size to a maximum of about 1" diameter. 1/2" shank bits have more steel supporting the cutter, have less vibration and this adds up to cleaner safer cuts. Always use 1/2" shank bits when possible. Keep your bits clean and sharp: Wood resin can build up on a bit which results in smoking and sticking. It is easy to clean this off with turpentine or other solvents. Dull bits mean more tear out and poor cuts. Protecting your bits: Never put your bits loose in a box or drawer, the carbide edges will chip and be ruined if they hit another bit. All it takes is a board with some holes drilled in it to safely store your bits, there are many plans for building bit storage to suit your needs. Multiple passes and using part of a bits cutting edge: A 1/4" bit will cut any width wider than 1/4" by making multiple passes, all you need to do is adjust your fence. Many bits have profiles that will do more than one job. An ogee bit will cut an ogee, a cove and a round over depending on how it is set up. This means you can get three different cuts from this one bit and there are other bits which will make even more cuts. That is the basics, now for bit selection:
*1/4" straight bit* This bit will let you cut a dado,(across the woods grain) a groove,(with the woods grain) a rabbit or rebate,(on the woods edge) will make a joiner edge(clean the entire edge of the wood) and mortises.(create a cavity in the wood)
*1/4" round over bit *This will make a nicely rounded corner edge on your wood.

Start with these two inexpensive bits and get the feel of how your router works.

Note: This information works best for most woodworkers. There are applications where HSS bits are the best choice.


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## tinman101 (Sep 28, 2010)

Some good advice there Mike i have just started on my router jobs thanks very much


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## vulcan00 (Jul 26, 2011)

Thank you for the information Mike


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## GPDMTR25 (Jun 7, 2010)

*Great info but I wish there was a little more.*

Mike thanks for the information. I wish you had added more though. I was looking for more information about the router bits. I understand why there are bushings on some and not others but others might not. I was looking for information about how to tell what size I would need for a certain project. I'm having a problem understand the terms used when websites describe their bits. 

I was looking for a bit to do some molding. When I went on a website I saw they had a ogee and classical bit but they offered it in different sizes. I didn't understand how to determine what size I should purchase for what I needed. If my molding is 3" X 3/4" what would I look for? Also I thought the radius was half the dia. but that won't work with the numbers they provided. 

They provided the radius, large dia, carbide height, shank size. 
3/16"	1-1/4"	5/8"	1/4" 
1/4"	1-1/2"	3/4"	1/4" 
3/16"	1-1/4"	5/8"	1/2" 
1/4"	1-1/2"	7/8"	1/2"	

I've done a lot of woodworking but still haven't figured this out. 
Thanks
Angela


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

GPDMTR25 said:


> Mike thanks for the information. I wish you had added more though. I was looking for more information about the router bits. I understand why there are bushings on some and not others but others might not. I was looking for information about how to tell what size I would need for a certain project. I'm having a problem understand the terms used when websites describe their bits.
> 
> I was looking for a bit to do some molding. When I went on a website I saw they had a ogee and classical bit but they offered it in different sizes. I didn't understand how to determine what size I should purchase for what I needed. If my molding is 3" X 3/4" what would I look for? Also I thought the radius was half the dia. but that won't work with the numbers they provided.
> 
> ...


Hi Angela - Welcome to the forum.

I suspect your confusion is with the radius spec, the others are pretty straight forward. Large diameter is just that, diameter from cutting edge to cutting edge. Carbide height is the vertical height of the cutting edge irregardless of any convolutions it makes getting there. Shank size is just that.
Now for radius. In your example, ogee and classical profiles, there are two radii within the profile. One being a cove (inny) and the other a bead (outy), The radius spec refers to those parts of the profile. If only one number it will be for both profiles, sometimes there will be two numbers if they are different sizes. 
This is one of my favorite sites. Not only are the prices very good and the quality excellent, the bit specifications and descriptions are exceptional:
1 pc 1/2" SH Roman Ogee Table Edge Forming Router Bit | eBay


Now, for your molding project, your stock is 3/4 x 3". The bits you listed will work fine (the 5/8 carbide height may be a bit shy but not a big deal) if you are profiling the 3/4" side. For the taller bits, search for "architectural molding bits"


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## RodPierce1 (Sep 10, 2011)

Thank you, Mike. I was planning to go over to Grizzly today and research their bit selections...you've really helped me get the proper focus rather than just blindly picking.


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

Very helpful information being shared on this website. So happy I found it. So many of my questions have been answered in these sticky's. Guess that's why they are stuck here. Saves wear and tear on your typing fingers. Thank you!


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## mstraw0001 (Apr 3, 2012)

thanks Mike. appreciate the tips.


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## sparky the wood worker (Jul 3, 2012)

*12 piece router bit set by 'Lifetime' Carbide*



Mike said:


> New members often post questions about which bits they should buy. Here are some tips to help understand what you need in your collection and why. Let's start with quality. You do not need to spend the money on premium bits when you begin. Premium bits stay sharp longer and can be resharpened more times than standard bits but most new users will do fine using inexpensive average quality bits. Keep in mind you may be able to replace an average bit for less than sharpening a premium bit. Next let's consider the cutting edge of the bit. A bit with an angled cutting edge will cut cleaner than a bit with a straight edge; spiral cutting edges do an even better job. Straight cutting edge bits are the easiest to manufacture and cost less than angled or spiral bits. High speed steel (HSS) vs carbide: While HSS works fine cutting metal where coolant can be used to dissipate heat, wood can easily overheat the cutting edge causing it to turn blue and lose it's sharpness. For this reason carbide works better. Shank size: Many routers are still limited to 1/4" collets. This limits your cutter size to a maximum of about 1" diameter. 1/2" shank bits have more steel supporting the cutter, have less vibration and this adds up to cleaner safer cuts. Always use 1/2" shank bits when possible. Keep your bits clean and sharp: Wood resin can build up on a bit which results in smoking and sticking. It is easy to clean this off with turpentine or other solvents. Dull bits mean more tear out and poor cuts. Protecting your bits: Never put your bits loose in a box or drawer, the carbide edges will chip and be ruined if they hit another bit. All it takes is a board with some holes drilled in it to safely store your bits, there are many plans for building bit storage to suit your needs. Multiple passes and using part of a bits cutting edge: A 1/4" bit will cut any width wider than 1/4" by making multiple passes, all you need to do is adjust your fence. Many bits have profiles that will do more than one job. An ogee bit will cut an ogee, a cove and a round over depending on how it is set up. This means you can get three different cuts from this one bit and there are other bits which will make even more cuts. That is the basics, now for bit selection:
> *1/4" straight bit* This bit will let you cut a dado,(accross the woods grain) a groove,(with the woods grain) a rabbit or rebate,(on the woods edge) will make a jointer edge(clean the entire edge of the wood) and mortises.(create a cavity in the wood)
> *1/4" round over bit *This will make a nicely rounded corner edge on your wood.
> 
> Start with these two inexpensive bits and get the feel of how your router works.


Mike:
Have purchased a 12 piece router bit set from 'Lifetime Carbide' for $35. This set includes 3 straight; 1 dovetail; 1 v-groove; 1 chamfer; 1 flush; 1 core box; 1 roman ogee; 1 cove; and 2 roundover bits which are all blue colored and have 1/4" shanks. Will try out these new router bits later next week after installing an air conditioner in my garage workshop. Thanks for all your advice:moil: Bill


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## book123 (Dec 7, 2012)

Simple and helpful, Thanks Mike!


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## Thea (Feb 27, 2013)

I only signed up for this yesterday and have found it to be very useful indeed. Great help and tips.


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## darklion99 (Jan 22, 2013)

*A couple clues to selecting quality bits*

I'm still really new to all of this, I love Mike's knack of simplifying complex topics into easy to understand but intelligent summaries. For those of you looking for more, I found an amazing book, "Success with Routers: Techniques & Tips" written by Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack. Their chapter on Bits helped me understand the most important aspects of bit quality. I had not understood what "carbide tips" really meant until I read this chapter. As I was reading, I studied a couple of my router bits with a magnifying glass. I saw that the carbide tip was really the actual cutters, brazed onto the main steel body of the bit, much like a razor blade is attached to your utility knife. 

I also noticed that the MLCS bits were much better made than the Grizzly bits I have - the brazing on the MLCS is very neat, while the brazing on the Grizzly bits is sloppy and spills out. Also the exposed side of the carbide bit is smooth on the MLCS while the Grizzly bit shows the parallel marks from the machining. According to Hylton and Matlock, both of these provide clues to the overall quality of these bits. Due to this information, I'm sending the Grizzly bits back (still within my 30 days).

Hope this is helpful!


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## jagcatfish (Jul 25, 2013)

Thanks mike.When in school my friends told me to sit up front because I needed all the help I could get.


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## rockysaw (Aug 26, 2013)

*A Handy Woodshop Tool*

I would suggest to purchase a set of steel radius gauges(they're inexpensive), "a real plus for the wood shop--and tool grinding/profiling..."
Thomas


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## cw45 (Oct 7, 2013)

I am new to this hobby and I have a question on top bearing bits and bottom bearing bits and when to use either one. I know the difference between the two but not the purpose


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Chris, The bearings follow a template and give you a nice, clean shape which can be repeated as often as needed. The template can be your first piece of wood which has been made into the shape you want to duplicate. Most often these are attached to your work piece with double sided tape or tiny brads.

Bits with bearings on the end are often used to trim one board flush with another, hence the name "flush trim bit." Bits with bearings on the shank end of the bit are most often called pattern bits and are commonly used free hand. Since either of these bits are inexpensive they are popular.

From a safety perspective using bits with guide bushings is a better choice.


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## cw45 (Oct 7, 2013)

Mike 
Thank you for your explanation that helps a lot, I look forward to learning some valuable information


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## ximile (Oct 11, 2013)

I'm new to the forum here, wanted to say thanks to Mike for the intro to what bits I should be looking at.:yes4:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Welcome to the forum.*



ximile said:


> I'm new to the forum here, wanted to say thanks to Mike for the intro to what bits I should be looking at.:yes4:


Hello Logan.

Welcome to the forum.


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## Thea (Feb 27, 2013)

*router table/table saw*

I have for sometime now been looking for a better router table for my now old Makita 3606. I have seen how some have built a router table onto the tablesaw. Space saving, and using the guide fence of the table saw. Is there any step by instructions or ANYTHING on how to do this?http://www.routerforums.com/images/smilies/sad.gif


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Dorothy,

Many members have used that approach to the problem of space in their shops.

There are many posts on that subject.

Search the forum for more information.


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## routerbug (Nov 2, 2013)

Scratchndent said:


> I'm still really new to all of this, I love Mike's knack of simplifying complex topics into easy to understand but intelligent summaries. For those of you looking for more, I found an amazing book, "Success with Routers: Techniques & Tips" written by Bill Hylton and Fred Matlack. Their chapter on Bits helped me understand the most important aspects of bit quality. I had not understood what "carbide tips" really meant until I read this chapter. As I was reading, I studied a couple of my router bits with a magnifying glass. I saw that the carbide tip was really the actual cutters, brazed onto the main steel body of the bit, much like a razor blade is attached to your utility knife.
> 
> I also noticed that the MLCS bits were much better made than the Grizzly bits I have - the brazing on the MLCS is very neat, while the brazing on the Grizzly bits is sloppy and spills out. Also the exposed side of the carbide bit is smooth on the MLCS while the Grizzly bit shows the parallel marks from the machining. According to Hylton and Matlock, both of these provide clues to the overall quality of these bits. Due to this information, I'm sending the Grizzly bits back (still within my 30 days).
> 
> Hope this is helpful!


How do you find the MLCS bits now.. Do you think its better to go to the whiteside basic router bit set. Thanks


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The Whiteside bits are far better quality and they can be bought for around $220. Since you read the two threads on starting out you know my reasons for what I recommended. Bits dull with use and need to be sharpened or replaced.


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## Ninety9Ninety (Jun 16, 2014)

As a newcomer to the router community I have a couple of questions. Where do most of the members bring or send out their router bits to get sharpened? And I know this is an open ended question because of all of the different bits out there, but what is the range in cost to have bits sharpened? I am in the process of ordering the Whiteside 7 piece 401 1/2" shank set upon reading all of the positive reviews from the members. At $85 for the 7 bits does that breaks down to around $12 a piece, which seems very reasonable for such a touted set of bits. Is it really that much less to get them sharpend?


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## rookie1178 (Jan 3, 2015)

*Good bits for a beginner?*



jschaben said:


> Hi Angela - Welcome to the forum.
> 
> "This is one of my favorite sites. Not only are the prices very good and the quality excellent, the bit specifications and descriptions are exceptional:
> pc 1/2" SH Roman Ogee Table Edge Forming Router Bit | eBay
> ...


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## Davif (Nov 24, 2014)

Very good advice Mike. It's best to mess up/learn on cheap bits and graduate once you feel you've got the skills.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Davif said:


> Very good advice Mike. It's best to mess up/learn on cheap bits and graduate once you feel you've got the skills.


but if the cheap bits burn, are more prone to tear out or are a danger to use nothing is gained and much is wasted...
be it your project or body parts...

wait till you have a cheap bit break or lose a chunk of carbide during use...
you will very quickly learn how cheap becomes very - very expensive...


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