# installing baseboard and window trim



## [email protected] (Sep 24, 2004)

I am installing new baseboard and window trim in a newly removated bedroom. I never seem to be able to get the corners to fit together to make nice corners. I have a sliding compound mitre saw. Any tips to help me solve my problem.
Your prompt response would be appreciated.
thanks Glen Moore


----------



## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

I've got a couple of tips that may help. Remember that walls may not be stright or parallel with the opposite wall so 'fudging' my be needed. 

On baseboard I always cut a wee bit oversize and try to sneak up on a good fit. If the 'toes' or 'heels' come together instead of meeting flush, I change the angle of the saw by shimming the work with a playing card instead of moving the blade. Moving it along the fence changes the angle is a small way. Before nailing pieces in place I like to 'dry' fit as many of the miters and I can manage. 

If you put the window(s) in yourself I can't imagine the miters will be too tough. One way to simplfy the fit it to use butt joints with rosettes (sp?). I'v done that and they can look very handsome in depending on the style of the home. Good luck.


----------



## pmspirito (Sep 19, 2004)

Baseboards and crown molding should never have mitered joints. The first board butts into the wall. The adjoing board uses a cope joint. Can't explain it easily but I have done it a lot. Home Depot has a great book on installing trim moldings.


----------



## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

The first thing to be sure of is that the fence on your saw is 90 degrees to the blade. If thats okay,then as pmspirito says inside corners can be coped. For outside corners when I'm using a SCM saw after setting the angle(usually 45)I tilt the head one or two degrees to back cut the joint, usually works for me. If not I use berry's trick with the playing cards or sheets of post-um pads. Leave the angle at 45 degrees when using shims to tweak the angle.

Good Luck

Jerry


----------

