# Pantorouter-Slot mortiser-tenon jig



## dask (Dec 24, 2011)

OK...it seems I got into woodworking to build jigs...what can I say, I enjoy building gadgets.
Now, my question is; do I build the pantorouter (pic 1) or
do I build the two separate jigs...mortiser and tenon jig (pic 1 & 2)
Plans cost about the same which ever way I go but it seems that I will be able to do everything with the pantorouter by being able to do both tenon and mortise cuts. I think what scares me it having to build the actual templates, but then again that can also be a challange.
So, what do you guys think?
Has anyone built any of these?
Heck, I've gotten some nice router bits from Fred that I would like to start using...  




























Dask


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## samurai (Aug 14, 2011)

why make two while one can do both works.i mean you should go for pantorouter.about making template is not a big deal, Matthias already offer very nice formula to make template which is very easy to make.i have made pantorouter from steel, aluminium and plywood which i gave name Hybrid pantorouter.i just little bit temper the design as i was making in metal so now i can make mortise and tenon from single tempate with easy setup.you can have a look mine on how my hybrid pantorouter works - YouTube
best regards
singh


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello Kyriakos!

The pantoruter is a great machine!

The question about making templates is not a real problem.
the templates are 2x time bigger than the real thing.
As "Samurai" said.
He made two of them in steel and woods.
A very good machine.
Difficult to design better.

Regards.

Gérard.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

I'd build dedicated jigs.
You can then tune A to B without breaking down the setup for either.
One caveat. I build fixturing that does not deflect.
Moreover, they hold the work so none of its (the work) 12 degrees of freedom can be exercised; the work is stuck in its fixrturing.
I do not see that level security in your dwgs. I'd sure as heck build for the experience but expect these to be test out prototypes.


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## dask (Dec 24, 2011)

bought the plans for the pantorouter...now to study all his plans and figure this out.

Dask


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## samurai (Aug 14, 2011)

good luck!! just one opinion, use 6mm shaft instead of 5mm


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## dask (Dec 24, 2011)

samurai...where is the 6mm shaft...I just browsed the plans today.

Thanks


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## samurai (Aug 14, 2011)

in the hardware list you will find 5mm x75mm these kind of 6 shaft which you need to use for pantograph mechanism.so instead of 5mm use 6mm shaft.when you will check the alignment of router mount it would be very handy


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

samurai said:


> in the hardware list you will find 5mm x75mm these kind of 6 shaft which you need to use for pantograph mechanism.so instead of 5mm use 6mm shaft.when you will check the alignment of router mount it would be very handy


Thanks for the tip Samurai, have all the hardware as of this evening aside from the bearings being shipped & knockdown screws. I have the 5mm (3/16) shafts but will return & pickup the 1/4 tomorrow. Hope to start mine tomorrow evening after work. I don't care for the clamp system he used, bit cheesy for what I like to build, but am considering pulling the trigger on the new Bessey high self-adjusting clamps. I'm also doing some minor design changes for quick removal of the router motor. Going with a Bosch 1617 which is 3.5" motor diameter which the plans just so happen to call for. 

Considering doing a mini-benchdog setup for perfect setting of repeatable standard mediums I work with.


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## Alan Bienlein (Oct 17, 2009)

dask said:


> OK...it seems I got into woodworking to build jigs...what can I say, I enjoy building gadgets.
> Now, my question is; do I build the pantorouter (pic 1) or
> do I build the two separate jigs...mortiser and tenon jig (pic 1 & 2)
> Plans cost about the same which ever way I go but it seems that I will be able to do everything with the pantorouter by being able to do both tenon and mortise cuts. I think what scares me it having to build the actual templates, but then again that can also be a challange.
> ...


I've built all three of those.




















I built the tenon jig first and used it once so far. I think if I had a traditional mortising machine it would get used more. 

I then built the horizontal mortiser next. I use this machine quite a bit as you can also do box joints with it.

The panto router was last and this one also gets used quite a bit. No need to worry about his clamps as they are sufficient for their intended purpose.

I also built a bunch of templates for cutting my mortise and tenons on the pantorouter. One template does both the mortise and tenon.







With the bearing riding the outside of the template it cuts the tenon.







Reverse the bearing for the other end of the 3/16" rod (5mm) and insert it in the slot and you can cut the mortise







And some examples of the mortise and tenons.


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## Alan Bienlein (Oct 17, 2009)

Here are some box joints I did with the horizontal slot mortiser.



























And some mortising of the legs for the night stands I'm building. This was done in conjunction with the pantorouter for the tenons that fit in these.


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## woodie26 (May 31, 2009)

Are there plands available some where?
Thanks


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## samurai (Aug 14, 2011)

Hi Alan!! do you have any problem with hitachi collet? i have abig problem with hitachi m12vc router collet.my tools always stuck inside and i have always hard time to remove it from collet.


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## Alan Bienlein (Oct 17, 2009)

No I haven't had a problem yet. 

Once you initially loosen the collet do you continue to loosen it till it gets tight again? Once it gets tight again put the wrenches on it and loosen some more and that will pop the bit loose.


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## EarlD (Sep 10, 2013)

Plans are available at woodgears.ca


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## Artie1085 (Apr 25, 2011)

sAMAURI

hAVE YOU LOOKED AT THE MUSCLECHUCK? oNCE ATTACHED IN PLACE OF YOUR COLLET TIGHTENING OR REMOVING A BIT BECOMES A ONE HAND OPERATION WITH JUST A HALF TURN OF THE WRENCH. I ALSO BOUGHT THE HEX WRENCH AND 1/4 REDUCER HE SELLS. i BELIEVE THAT HE ALSO AHS AN 8MM REDUCER. I REFER YOU TO JAMES' WRIGHT-UP ON THIS PRODUCT OR THE MANY COMMENTS ON THIS FORUM. 
ARTIE


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## oargollo (Apr 30, 2014)

Hello I wonder if I have to buy the design pantorouter, so that is not paid through Credit Card. 
'm from Brazil and I do not like making such payment. Thank you. 
e-mail. [email protected]


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, Osvaldo.

I believe the plans are available at woodgears.ca

I would ask you question on that site.


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## cylon58 (Nov 4, 2014)

*Did you use that Boasch 1617*



BRAVOGOLFTANGO said:


> Thanks for the tip Samurai, have all the hardware as of this evening aside from the bearings being shipped & knockdown screws. I have the 5mm (3/16) shafts but will return & pickup the 1/4 tomorrow. Hope to start mine tomorrow evening after work. I don't care for the clamp system he used, bit cheesy for what I like to build, but am considering pulling the trigger on the new Bessey high self-adjusting clamps. I'm also doing some minor design changes for quick removal of the router motor. Going with a Bosch 1617 which is 3.5" motor diameter which the plans just so happen to call for.
> 
> Considering doing a mini-benchdog setup for perfect setting of repeatable standard mediums I work with.


I know this is an old post, but thought I'd ask anyway.

@ Bravogolftango: Did you end up using that Bosch 1617 in the pantorouter? I'm in the process of building it right now for that router and am having trouble making parts to fit the base. The way it angles to a larger diameter at the top is what is causing me headaches.

I was able to cut the back most piece of the router clamp by tilting my bandsaw and cutting the angle first, then using a chisel to carve out the larger diameter at the top of the router. I thought I was good until i put the half piece that laminates to the back piece on the router. The flat edges didn't line up!:jester:

I think in the process of reaming out the back most piece to fit the router I must have gotten the hole out of center. 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone else sees this and wants to help it'd be great. I'm at work now but I can take pics from home this evening.


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