# Dust collector remote DIY option



## Bikeworks (Oct 24, 2012)

From an electronically/Electric challenged woodworker... Can this work?

I have a 13a remote switch in line to my HF 2HP dust collector. I want to upgrade the switch/remote and ran across this remote switch (below). Says it is a 30a 120v and will work with up to 800w inductive load. I have had no problem with 13a switch, I just want to upgrade to something that has some extra capacity just in case. I won't spend the money for the Long Ranger or IVac units.

YL-A1T 200M 220V 30A Long Distance One Way Remote Control Power Switch 3000W High Power Wireless Switch with Remote Control Sale - Banggood.com

Seems if it is what they claim it should be a good option for me. I bought one and I'm waiting for delivery. If it works I will likely try another for my compressor which is in the garage and the switch will control the circuit just inside the wall in my basement.

Anything I can do as a DIY project is what I am interested in. A commercially available plug in unit is just not my style.

Thanks
Tim


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## Bikeworks (Oct 24, 2012)

Oh, and any suggestions on a way to mount this remote would be great...


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

As I read your post, a big red flag popped up with saying you want to a DIY electrical project in our subject, but then your first sentence says you have little or no experience with electrical work. This is not a good mix.

Here is my recommendation. There is a reason the remote switches for dust collectors are so much more expensive than most of the smaller remotes, like those for lights. They are designed around the much larger draws of power, especially during start-up. 

I am not an electrician, but after looking at the specs and details on that remote, I do not think it would be appropriate for controlling the large motor on your dust collector. I think at best you are going to burn-out that unit fairly quickly. At worst it could lead to damaged equipment, and potentially to the loss of life and property due to fire.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Tim if your concerned about more current capacity in the future , all you need to do is add a Contactor (basically a relay) .
I had a problem with inrush current and had to add one myself . Was a better option than upgrading my remote system imo , and I'm future proof .
It's probably neg 30 in my garage right now , but if you can wait I can take pics and draw a schematic for you . 
It's pretty basic , and even a caveman can do it 


I will say Mikes post makes some good points though . The potential for serious injury or death is always there when your not familiar with electrical, kind of contradictory to my caveman theory


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Tim if your concerned about more current capacity in the future , all you need to do is add a Contactor (basically a relay) .
> I had a problem with inrush current and had to add one myself . Was a better option than upgrading my remote system imo , and I'm future proof .
> It's probably neg 30 in my garage right now , but if you can wait I can take pics and draw a schematic for you .
> It's pretty basic , and even a caveman can do it
> ...


The electrician I had wire my 3hp DC put a contactor on it and a solid state emote controlling the contactor.
Herb


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I called the iVAC tech support about their remote and they recommended using a contactor and allowing the remote to control the contactor even for my Baldor 2 HP DC. The momentary high amp draw will burn out the remotes if a contactor is not used.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

coxhaus said:


> I called the iVAC tech support about their remote and they recommended using a contactor and allowing the remote to control the contactor even for my Baldor 2 HP DC. The momentary high amp draw will burn out the remotes if a contactor is not used.


This pretty much collaborates with what I discovered with mine . Installed the Contactor , and issues over . 
The inrush current was tripping it's resettable breaker after the forth cycle , and by installing a Contactor I never had any more issues . And it be configured for 120 or 240v if you change your DC


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

That is what I have a large contactor that is activated by the cheap remote system.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

As a remote control to control the contactor that operates your dust collector of any size this looks like a pretty good choice. My only concern with it other than that is how large the buttons appear to be making them easy to activate, if you plan on hanging the remote on you, but at the price it looks like it may be a good low budget option, but drive a contactor with it, and let the contactor operate the dust collector or power tool.

You might also look around for a Christmas light remote control. It's the right time of year to try to find one cheap. Since only the contactor coil needs to be powered from the remote, heavy duty contacts in the remote are not required.

Charley


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## Bikeworks (Oct 24, 2012)

Thanks for all the info guys. Sounds like a contactor in tandem with the remote I described is the way to go. Any suggestions for a brand/model and how they are wired would be great.

I did mention that I am electrically challenged in my original post. That was a bit modest. I was the electrical buyer/salesman for an Ace Hardware for a few years, so, my basic understanding of amps, watts and volts and their relationship is good. My understanding of contactors, capacitors, diodes, motor controls, etc. not so much.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Bikeworks said:


> From an electronically/Electric challenged woodworker... Can this work?
> 
> I have a 13a remote switch in line to my HF 2HP dust collector. I want to upgrade the switch/remote and ran across this remote switch (below). Says it is a 30a 120v and will work with up to 800w inductive load. I have had no problem with 13a switch, I just want to upgrade to something that has some extra capacity just in case. I won't spend the money for the Long Ranger or IVac units.
> 
> ...


My Harbor Freight 2HP dust collector wouldn't start on a 15 amp circuit. I had an electrician run a dedicated 20 amp circuit for it. 

Then I tried one of those cheep remotes. It worked OK for a little while (weeks), then quit working. Since then, I ran an extension cord to a spot where I could access it and wired up an ON/Off switch, then back to the dust collector. So the start/stop is hard wired with a regular 20 amp switch.

I have done some research and asked about remotes also. It looks like the Long Ranger is what I would need. For now, I am saving that $70 by using the switch.


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## Relative (Apr 24, 2008)

If you really think you want to build one on your own, try this:

http://users.sisna.com/cebula/RelayBoxInstructions.pdf 

Mike


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

MT Stringer said:


> My Harbor Freight 2HP dust collector wouldn't start on a 15 amp circuit. I had an electrician run a dedicated 20 amp circuit for it.
> 
> Then I tried one of those cheep remotes. It worked OK for a little while (weeks), then quit working. Since then, I ran an extension cord to a spot where I could access it and wired up an ON/Off switch, then back to the dust collector. So the start/stop is hard wired with a regular 20 amp switch.
> 
> I have done some research and asked about remotes also. It looks like the Long Ranger is what I would need. For now, I am saving that $70 by using the switch.


Mike a better way to wire your DC is to use a contactor with your switch wired to the contactor to turn it on and off. The contactor is run to power 110 v or 220v on one side and the other side goes to the motor. The switch is wired to the contactor coil which turns it on. If you want to use a remote then wire the remote to the contactor coil the same as using a switch.

This is the way I am going to wire my DC soon. I hope this makes sense.

PS
The contactor coil can be different voltages but 110v would work best since most switches and remotes are 110v.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

coxhaus said:


> Mike a better way to wire your DC is to use a contactor with your switch wired to the contactor to turn it on and off. The contactor is run to power 110 v or 220v on one side and the other side goes to the motor. The switch is wired to the contactor coil which turns it on. If you want to use a remote then wire the remote to the contactor coil the same as using a switch.
> 
> This is the way I am going to wire my DC soon. I hope this makes sense.


I know. I think we have discussed it but I don't know how to do it...and hate those colors. I did mention I am partially color blind, huh? :frown:


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

When I do mine I will take enough pictures so I can post the complete start to finish.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Build 2 of them and I will send a shipping label!


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

LOL. My Baldor 2 HP pulls 24 amps on 110 volt. Mine is going to be 220 volt. I have an extra welding plug I can use. I have to build a pig tail so I can use my already existing welding plug on the wall.


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## Bikeworks (Oct 24, 2012)

MT Stringer said:


> My Harbor Freight 2HP dust collector wouldn't start on a 15 amp circuit. I had an electrician run a dedicated 20 amp circuit for it.
> 
> Then I tried one of those cheep remotes. It worked OK for a little while (weeks), then quit working. Since then, I ran an extension cord to a spot where I could access it and wired up an ON/Off switch, then back to the dust collector. So the start/stop is hard wired with a regular 20 amp switch.
> 
> I have done some research and asked about remotes also. It looks like the Long Ranger is what I would need. For now, I am saving that $70 by using the switch.


Mike, I hear ya on the switch. I have my DC on a 20a circuit all by its lonesome. No problem there. When you mentioned a switch close to your work area I remembered seeing this youtube video of a clever way to throw a switch from across the room. And I mean across the room anywhere!






I like this guy's ingenuity. His is more complicated than I need to be. It has two switches which would not be necessary in my case. When a rope is pulled one switch is turned on while another switch is turned off. He has two machines on one circuit. I think I might forgo the remote and contactor and rig up something along the lines of his method.


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## Bikeworks (Oct 24, 2012)

Relative said:


> If you really think you want to build one on your own, try this:
> 
> http://users.sisna.com/cebula/RelayBoxInstructions.pdf
> 
> Mike


Thanks Mike. I read through that pdf once and it seems pretty easy to follow. I have to read through a couple more times, but, I think I can do the wiring on my own with those instructions. I found a contactor for about $13 so the whole set-up will be under $30 which is #1, Safe, and #2, Affordable...

Thanks to everybody for the advice and cautions!


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## Flipsaw (Mar 11, 2016)

Did I miss where it said it was 120v? I read 30amp 220v.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

coxhaus said:


> Mike a better way to wire your DC is to use a contactor with your switch wired to the contactor to turn it on and off. The contactor is run to power 110 v or 220v on one side and the other side goes to the motor. The switch is wired to the contactor coil which turns it on. If you want to use a remote then wire the remote to the contactor coil the same as using a switch.
> 
> This is the way I am going to wire my DC soon. I hope this makes sense.
> 
> ...


The electrician hooked mine up similar . The 3hp motor runs on 220v and the contactor on 12v. he hooked the contactor remote 12v transformer to the lighting circuit so when I leave the shop and turn off the lights the stray remote signals can't turn on my DC.I also have 3 low voltage switches around the shop incase I want to manually run the DC.
Herb

Herb


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Sounds like 12 volt might be a good option for you Herb. I have a 110v plug close which I thought I could use by adding a light switch to turn the contactor coil on and off.


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## Bikeworks (Oct 24, 2012)

*DC remote for < $30*



Relative said:


> If you really think you want to build one on your own, try this:
> 
> http://users.sisna.com/cebula/RelayBoxInstructions.pdf
> 
> Mike


It works! I connected the hardwired remote through a 30a 120v contactor mounted inside an enclosure with the remote receiver's antenna hanging out a small hole. It works great. I can't wait to start working on my DC room on the other side of my shop wall to quiet things down a bit. Thanks for the link and ideas.

Should anyone want a photo let me know. I just would have to remove four screws for the lid to let you see inside.


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