# T Track Channel



## John Charnock (May 2, 2017)

I am making a jig which uses UJK Technology Universal T-Track, it is 19mm wide 9.5mm deep and the length after trimming will be about 700mm channel. 

I propose to cut the channel using my Festool router with 1/2 collet and the Festool track which will be clamped to the workpiece. 

The board I will use for the jig is a laminated plywood which I think is 18mm deep. 

I expect I will need at least two passes to get to 9.5mm depth 

I have two questions

1, What type of router bit should I use? 

2, In which direction do I move? normally I would move the router away from me 

Regards

John


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

John Charnock said:


> I am making a jig which uses UJK Technology Universal T-Track, it is 19mm wide 9.5mm deep and the length after trimming will be about 700mm channel.
> 
> I propose to cut the channel using my Festool router with 1/2 collet and the Festool track which will be clamped to the workpiece.
> 
> ...



1... plunge cut straight bit... (dia of your choice) and I like my Freud...
2... guide to the right - to you... left side - away from you.... top - to the right... bottom of the router - to the left...

...


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

So, are you basically saying you need to cut a dado 19mm wide and 9.5mm deep?

If it were me, I would make a template out of 1/2 inch mdf. Then using a 1/2 inch pattern bit, run it around the inside of the template until you get the desired depth.

Check out my exact width dado jig. More info here --> http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/103234-thoughts-about-my-exact-width-dado-jig.html

Hope you find this helpful.
Mike


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Hi, Mike's suggestion is probably your best bet, and about the easiest to manage. Make certain the edges are straight, and that the fixed piece is perfectly square to the side rails. I used to use a simple square for this, but they are not always exact 90 degrees. Buy a set of engineers squares when you want exact 90s, or a really high quality speed square for 90 and 45s. 

You will place a piece of the material you are going to insert into the dado to set the width, but I found I needed to add a piece or two of paper in as well to allow for glue. 

If you are gluing an edge piece of ply, I'd glue that edge first, then after a minute to let it soak in, I'd glue the dado and insert the piece. You'll only have a few seconds to position the piece to the edges, and be sure you have it set square to the piece with the Dado--that's what those clamp on corner braces are for (see pix). 

Once that glue sets, what you set up is no longer adjustable.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

MT Stringer said:


> So, are you basically saying you need to cut a dado 19mm wide and 9.5mm deep?
> 
> If it were me, I would make a template out of 1/2 inch mdf. Then using a 1/2 inch pattern bit, run it around the inside of the template until you get the desired depth.
> 
> ...


Very good post Mike. :smile:


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## John Charnock (May 2, 2017)

MT Stringer said:


> So, are you basically saying you need to cut a dado 19mm wide and 9.5mm deep?
> 
> If it were me, I would make a template out of 1/2 inch mdf. Then using a 1/2 inch pattern bit, run it around the inside of the template until you get the desired depth.
> 
> ...


Good idea and worth thinking about, thanks


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