# 2" or more flush trim bit



## the_angler2001 (Nov 23, 2004)

hey guys, i can't afford a jointer and my garage does not currently permit me space for one. has anyone seen or used any flush trim bits large enough for jointing 2 by 2's or 2 by 4's?


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## wrestlingstud13 (Feb 26, 2009)

the only ones I can find close are flush trim router bits out of woodcraft...there are also planers that are close to a jointer but smaller and much cheaper


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi rodney

Here's just some that will do the job

http://cgi.ebay.com/4-pc-1-4-SH-Ext...50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-3-8...50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-2-1...50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262


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the_angler2001 said:


> hey guys, i can't afford a jointer and my garage does not currently permit me space for one. has anyone seen or used any flush trim bits large enough for jointing 2 by 2's or 2 by 4's?


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

Could you just make a jointer fence and use tall plain straight bits? Works for me...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Yes you can. You will find bits as long as 4" but remember they are supported only on one end and the longer the bit, the greater the loss of accuracy.


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

Whiteside Part Number: 24A74
from
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=8072

In Australia
Carbitool part number: TXX 8016 B 1/2
from 
http://www.apworkshop.com.au/html_routerbits/08-lam-ftb2.html


Reuel


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

I have the Katana #18814 from MCLS and although a little costly I find it very useful.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

True with longer the bit greater the error, but, that can be ameliorated.

I'm almost finished with the segment of the project shown in the pic below.
The mid blocks, (4 3/8 X 4 3/8 X 4 11/16) are the actual size of the pieces, the right side end, (4 3/8 X 4 3/8 X 3 1/2) was a test piece.

I used a 1/2" x 4 3/4" Freud straight bit, template and guide. A couple of tricks to minimizing drift or creep.

1. As you extend the bit out of the guide take shallower cuts. I cut -0- to 2 1/2" starting with 1/2" and working to 3/8" to 1/4" with a final cut of 1/8". 

2. Moved the template to the opposite end and repeated the procedure.

3. As you extend the bit also take the cut slower, when done with the pass repeat it, quite often you'll hear more mat being removed.

4. Before moving the template to the opposite side make some transfer alignment marks to ensure the template will position correctly.

When I completed the test and final piece I had little sanding. Outside of the occasional divot that needed filling because I neglected to back cut the out feed end


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