# OK, I think I'm ready to build my first table. Tips/shopping list?



## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I've already been given my first project by SWMBO, but I know I need a table to help me practice on routing in general. So I've read the entire table setups thread, and probably about half the site thus far.

I'll be going with either two 3/4" MDF (sealed), or two 3/4" melamine. Since the melamine has a ply/pressed core, I'm wondering if MDF may be the easier way to go.

As for the insert plate, I'll be going with the HF/MLCS version. It looks like HF only sells it online, so it would be about $28.50 shipped, or I could spend about $10 more and order the MLCS version from Amazon and get it tomorrow. I'm leaning towards the latter, and I might as well grab a set of brass setup bars while I'm at it, unless someone knows of a set that I can buy cheaper locally.

I'll probably use scrap MDF/melamine mounted on angle iron (or, just the scrap pieces joined together) for the fence with a couple of C clamps.

I can't think of anything else I'll need. The router is the Craftsman 17543. Would it be easier to make the hole for the router/insert plate before I join the two pieces of MDF/melamine?

Thanks.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Melamine has a nasty habit of chipping off. Use MDF. The rest of your plan sounds good.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

That's been my experience with it, too.

As for the MDF - join then rout/cut, or rout/cut then join? I don't have the skill to use a jigsaw accurately.

For the record, this is what I have at my disposal:

chop/mitre saw (non sliding)
circular saw w/ edge guide
router, obviously
the HF 15 piece carbide bit set - damn, for some reason I thought I got 1/2" shank, these are 1/4"
jigsaw
several hand saws, RO sander, hand sanding tools, chisels


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Welcome to the forum Chris. 

Another simple fence that you might consider is a pivot fence. Basically you drill a hole through the fence bottom and the table and put a screw with a knob and that is your pivot. The other side you can still use a c-clamp to clamp it down if you didn't want to use a knob.

Scroll to the bottom pics of this site an you can kinda see what I am talking about. Pivot fence towards bottom LINK

Just an FYI, sometimes Rockler puts there T-track and knob set on sale for half price. It's a good deal when their on sale. 

17-Piece Universal T-Track Kit

By the way, do you want to make a full-size or bench-top router table?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> That's been my experience with it, too.
> 
> As for the MDF - join then rout/cut, or rout/cut then join? I don't have the skill to use a jigsaw accurately.
> 
> ...


Hi Chris - Looks like you have everything you need.

I would:
1. Glue up the MDF top and seal it, apply formica, whatever.
2. Route the rabbet for the plate. This is where you need the accuracy. Pay attention to the corner radius. The rabbet will actually be a groove the exact size of the plate around the *outside* perimeter. You will want to make the depth of the groove the exact thickness of the plate. Maybe a tad, no more than 1/32, deeper. You can shim the plate up to exact flush later. Set up guide fences to do this. You can either use a guide bushing and template or straight scrap boards to guide against the router base. I would recommend the bushing/template route if you have the capability.
3. Use the circular saw and plunge cut the straight edges of the groove along the *Inside* perimeter of the groove to within an inch or so of the corners. The inside cutout doesn't need to be that precise as long as you leave plenty of support for the router and plate.
4. Flip the top over and tack some scrap across the cuts you made in the last step. Don't need a lot, just enough to hold the center piece in place.
5. Flip the top back over and make the remaining corner cuts with the jig saw. Remove the scrap and center cutout from the bottom of the table
Voila.. you're done.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

So seal first, then cut. I think I can handle that.

I picked up a set of brass setup bars at Rockler yesterday (wow...that's a store I shouldn't venture into too often), and my insert plate should be here today. I'll go ahead and pick up the MDF and glue it together tonight. 

I'm not sure about my ability to do a plunge cut, but I'll give it a shot.

As for what I plan to do, I was probably just going to use sawhorses as a temporary solution, I may also look this afternoon and see how much bathroom cabinets go for. If I do that, I'd probably rabbet the bottom half to securely fit the cabinet, if it was close enough.

I'm really not sure what I want to do. My first project is going to call for some seriously large pieces to box cut, I'll probably have to do that off the table. But I foresee myself doing a fair bit of bookcase-sized projects.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

OK, status update:

picked up two 2'x4' sheets of 3/4" MDF and am attempting to join them with contact cement. Also lucked out and found a piece of Formica for the top. That's curing as well. Hopefully that turns out well, and possibly late tomorrow or Sunday I'll work on mounting the router.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*in good hands....*

Chris,
like "Allstate" used to say, *you're in good hands with these guys.*:yes4:

But food for thought and maybe you can grab an idea from my attempts, my "table" is here: http://ourpage.org/router/index.html



Cordially,
Gerry


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

" I know I need a table to help me practice on routing in general"

you know enough to know that, you're off to one fantastic start!!


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Thanks guys. Formica looks like it did fairly well. Not perfect, but it should work.

Got the mounting holes on the plate drilled, just have to get some longer screws tomorrow.


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## codgerbill (Jan 15, 2010)

*MDF question*

I too am in the process of building a router table. I built the stand out of 2" X 4"'s and the legs are 3" thick. For the top I am using 2' x4' 3/4" plywood as the bottom piece and 2' X 4' 3/4" MDF for the top piece. I purchased the inca miter slot (4') and a pair of inca "t" slots.

I was thinking of just attaching the MDF to the plywood using screws from underneath but am wondering if gluing would be a better option? I am also curious as to what one would use to "seal" the MDF top with? I have clear urethane and wonder if that would suffice?


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

codgerbill said:


> I too am in the process of building a router table. I built the stand out of 2" X 4"'s and the legs are 3" thick. For the top I am using 2' x4' 3/4" plywood as the bottom piece and 2' X 4' 3/4" MDF for the top piece. I purchased the inca miter slot (4') and a pair of inca "t" slots.
> 
> I was thinking of just attaching the MDF to the plywood using screws from underneath but am wondering if gluing would be a better option? I am also curious as to what one would use to "seal" the MDF top with? I have clear urethane and wonder if that would suffice?


I just finished my top yesterday and sealed it with poly and am very happy with the results. I sanded between coats with a 220 grit sandpaper and that made all the difference in the world. Now that it's dry, I'm going to use Johnson paste wax on the top only to give it an extra layer of protection and to help wood slide smooth on it.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Laminate MDF with PVA. Attach Formica with contact adhesive. Seal MDF with Polyurethane. Seal all internal and external edges.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

codgerbill said:


> I too am in the process of building a router table. I built the stand out of 2" X 4"'s and the legs are 3" thick. For the top I am using 2' x4' 3/4" plywood as the bottom piece and 2' X 4' 3/4" MDF for the top piece. I purchased the inca miter slot (4') and a pair of inca "t" slots.
> 
> I was thinking of just attaching the MDF to the plywood using screws from underneath but am wondering if gluing would be a better option? I am also curious as to what one would use to "seal" the MDF top with? I have clear urethane and wonder if that would suffice?


In my opinion I would use titebond glue...coat both surfaces completely and clamp that sucker with even pressure over the entire surface..Make damn sure the plywood is flat...real flat..I made my first one with 2 pieces of 3/4 MDF...You want to know what heavy is? That sucker is heavy..My second one is going to be 3/4 and 1/2 MDF for a total of 1 1/4 thickness..

Good Luck and Best Regards,

George Cole
"Regulae Stultis Sunt"


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

So far, so good. I set up a template of 1/2" poplar and got the formica on the perimeter routed off. Stupid HF bushing didn't even make it around once, and it broke and fused itself to my base.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*Sorry it happend for you.*



Cocheseuga said:


> So far, so good. I set up a template of 1/2" poplar and got the formica on the perimeter routed off. Stupid HF bushing didn't even make it around once, and it broke and fused itself to my base.


All it takes is a bushing not made for the router plate, one with a little play in it. Then one good extra bit of pressure and you are out of center alignment between the bushing and the bit. Little bit of friction between the bit and the bushing = heat = problems like you experienced.

That's one of those yucko problems. :bad:
There's a good chance you'll need a new baseplate, if you ever get that bushing out.
That didn't happen to me yet, but I had anticipated it and have been avoiding much use of bushings, even though my bushings are from the same manufacturer as the router.
They sell alignment pins to help set bushings up, but a sloppy fit or one that is just not tightened to the right specs will cause that.
Sorry it happened for you. :sad:


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

It may have been user error, too. I may have got too much material in the space and heated up. I'll be taking advantage of the exchange policy.

Baseplate looks like it came away without too much damage. I was able to wiggle it off after it cooled off it's reentry-like temps. Another bushing went on fine.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

That's good, it sounded like you had a major meltdown for a moment!


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Luckily, no. But I did find something odd - my bit won't extend below the bushing due to the collet nut. Thoughts? I think the friction of the nut is what caused the heat.


The table is mostly done. I don't think I did too shabby, considering my firsts this weekend: first time using a router, and first time attempting plunge cuts with the circular saw. I have a little bit of a gap around a couple of sides. Do I need to fill this in, and what with? I'll try to post a pic later.

I need to trim one length of the Formica down to the edge, and I also need to take off about 1/8 of one side of the table where the Formica was too short/the MDF was too long. Make a fence and drill a hole for the height adjustment, and I'm done.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*Hummm,*



Cocheseuga said:


> Luckily, no. But I did find something odd - my bit won't extend below the bushing due to the collet nut. Thoughts? I think the friction of the nut is what caused the heat.


Hummm, when setting your dept adjustment you'll have to take this into account. Perhaps you let the bit bottom out in the collet? Of course you do need a good grip on the bit with the collet, but you "could" get up to an extra 1/4" by not letting it bottom out. 
Also the bushing or template may be too thick requiring a deeper plunge. Food for thought; If you can't use a thinner template, grind or cut off some of the threaded portion of the bushing so that you have just enough thread to grab with maybe an extra thickness of thread equal to the thickness of the bushing nut.



Cocheseuga said:


> The table is mostly done. I don't think I did too shabby, considering my firsts this weekend: first time using a router, and first time attempting plunge cuts with the circular saw. I have a little bit of a gap around a couple of sides. Do I need to fill this in, and what with? I'll try to post a pic later.


*EDIT:* This does not apply to you but others may have a question with posting pictures:
_As I remember one needs to have about 10 posts in the system before one can post any pictures. The advice given to me was to check out the "word games" reply to a few and then that will build up your posting history number._

A little gap should not be a problem unless the surfaces are uneven. Then you'll have to consider leveling blocks for the plate. On that page I posted earlier, I show how I made leveling blocks out of scraps of 1/4" aluminum bar stock. Of course you can buy them, but then adaptation of the table may be necessary to accommodate them.



Cocheseuga said:


> I need to trim one length of the Formica down to the edge, and I also need to take off about 1/8 of one side of the table where the Formica was too short/the MDF was too long. Make a fence and drill a hole for the height adjustment, and I'm done.


My height adjustment and lock were supposed to be available through the plate, it is a commercial plate from Rockler. But due to the location or orientation of the router, one of them is usually under the fence! LOL! I live with it, reaching under to make adjustments. 
Bottom line is or most say that; your first router table is just that, your first. You'll always discover some tweak or change you want to incorporate to make things easier on you "second" router table!


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Gerard_sr said:


> Hummm, when setting your dept adjustment you'll have to take this into account. Perhaps you let the bit bottom out in the collet? Of course you do need a good grip on the bit with the collet, but you "could" get up to an extra 1/4" by not letting it bottom out.
> Also the bushing or template may be too thick requiring a deeper plunge. Food for thought; If you can't use a thinner template, grind or cut off some of the threaded portion of the bushing so that you have just enough thread to grab with maybe an extra thickness of thread equal to the thickness of the bushing nut.


Yes, it is bottomed out. I was under the impression that was better - more collet surface area to grab onto the bit. I was going with a logical safer approach. Wrong?

I'm not sure if these bushings can be modified and still work. I'll have to post pictures. Maybe I'm doing it all wrong.



> *EDIT:* This does not apply to you but others may have a question with posting pictures:
> _As I remember one needs to have about 10 posts in the system before one can post any pictures. The advice given to me was to check out the "word games" reply to a few and then that will build up your posting history number._
> 
> A little gap should not be a problem unless the surfaces are uneven. Then you'll have to consider leveling blocks for the plate. On that page I posted earlier, I show how I made leveling blocks out of scraps of 1/4" aluminum bar stock. Of course you can buy them, but then adaptation of the table may be necessary to accommodate them.


I'm good on being even, thanks to the little screws. It's still a bit unsightly though.



> My height adjustment and lock were supposed to be available through the plate, it is a commercial plate from Rockler. But due to the location or orientation of the router, one of them is usually under the fence! LOL! I live with it, reaching under to make adjustments.
> Bottom line is or most say that; your first router table is just that, your first. You'll always discover some tweak or change you want to incorporate to make things easier on you "second" router table!


Luckily, I oriented the fixed base so that the lock and height adjustment are closest to the front. I should just have to drill a hole in the plate and grab a long-throw T-handle hex.

I whipped up a cheap and ugly fence and push block last night. I think I'm ready to roll!


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## dirkost (Jul 8, 2009)

Hi Ho Chris: As others have suggesed: Don't bottom the bit out, especialy with the 1/4 inch shank bits you have. The problem is that you may never get them back out. What happens when the collet nut is tightened is that it squeezes the bit and pushes it further in the collet. If you leave some room, all is well. If you don't it sort of welds itself in.

My first experience was something like yours and I almost didn't get the bit back out. I insert a rubber grommet before the bit. Then the bit is the same depth every time as the grommet is just compressed the same amount.

Have fun, Dirk


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

Noob said:


> Just an FYI, sometimes Rockler puts there T-track and knob set on sale for half price. It's a good deal when their on sale.


Really wish I would have seen this before I ordered the clearance fence from them last weekend. It has the 4' T-track included with the other stuff and is the same cost as just a 4' T-track according to online. We would have gone to the store (actually she would have gone in, too slippery to load up the scooter into the truck) but the local store didn't have any fences left.

Am glad I only paid clearance prices for the fence as $60-$80 would have left me very disappointed since outside of the plastic cover I could have probably sourced everything else without spending money, just digging into the misc junk around the house would have probably found me every thing else and I just cut 2 melamine shelves Sunday that left over the amount of melamine that came with the fence.

(newbie, making a router table for the second time around, only this time actually planning things instead of using scraps)

(too much of a newbie to post the urls)


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## Tom76 (Aug 28, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> I've already been given my first project by SWMBO, but I know I need a table to help me practice on routing in general. So I've read the entire table setups thread, and probably about half the site thus far.
> 
> I'll be going with either two 3/4" MDF (sealed), or two 3/4" melamine. Since the melamine has a ply/pressed core, I'm wondering if MDF may be the easier way to go.
> 
> ...


Welcome to the forum there are many here who can assist you getting what you want to do with a router. Just a reminder there is more that can be achieved when the router is held in the plunge mode check out the material below.

Tom
(Template Tom)


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

DerekO said:


> (too much of a newbie to post the urls)


Derek,

Getting to 10 posts can come really quickly, either by reading topic of interest posts and replying or by going to the "Introductions" section and to meet and greet a few new people.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*Remember the whole thing, [B]always[/B], is a learning process.*



Cocheseuga said:


> Yes, it is bottomed out. I was under the impression that was better - more collet surface area to grab onto the bit. I was going with a logical safer approach. Wrong?


I just got a new flyer from MLCS the other day. In it they advertise a type of bit that has lines etched in the shanks of the bits. Katana Bits They DON'T say it online, but the catalog says; "New Safety Gauge Shank (TM) is unique to Katana. Insert bit into collet to at least the 1st or 2nd line." Judging the shanks in the online photos that show the WHOLE shank, one could surmise that at least 2/3 of the shank should be in the collet. At least that's MY take on it.



Cocheseuga said:


> I'm not sure if these bushings can be modified and still work. I'll have to post pictures. Maybe I'm doing it all wrong.



If you don't want to or don't know how to post pictures, you can email them to me from the link at the bottom of my web page.



Cocheseuga said:


> I'm good on being even, thanks to the little screws. It's still a bit unsightly though.
> 
> Luckily, I oriented the fixed base so that the lock and height adjustment are closest to the front. I should just have to drill a hole in the plate and grab a long-throw T-handle hex.
> 
> I whipped up a cheap and ugly fence and push block last night. I think I'm ready to roll!


Unsightly? Nawh, just so long at it does not present a problem or something to snag on your working surface.

A T-Handle will work just fine in most cases.

"Cheap and ugly fence"? You didn't see the one I made! LOL! But it was what I needed for my application. A fence for a stand-alone table mounted router need not be more than a single piece of "something" clamped to the table. If you need more height, fabricate one in the shape of an "L" with a few blocks of wood behind it glued and screwed into the base and back of the vertical piece for strength.

Just take your time, think things out, some experimentation is necessary. Remember the whole thing, *always*, is a learning process.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I know how to post pics, it's the time to take them. Three kids don't leave me a lot of time to do things.

I did two pieces of MDF in an L, but good tip on bracing them. Rockler had some cheap pieces of wood (maple?) for $.75, so I found something to practice on.

Hopefully I can grab some material today and attempt to diy a spacer fence so I can make this jewelry box. She's been asking about it ever since I mentioned it.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

OK, here's a question hopefully someone can answer:

How do I set up the fence for repeatable results? Like when I make a pass say at 1" from the edge, move it, then have to go back to 1"? Barring back to back passes, of course.

Is this what everyone uses sticky measuring tape for?


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

BigJimAK said:


> Derek,
> 
> Getting to 10 posts can come really quickly, either by reading topic of interest posts and replying or by going to the "Introductions" section and to meet and greet a few new people.



Found out I couldn't reply to PM's either yet too.  

As for ugly fences, my first one was just a piece of mdf that I would clamp onto the mdf table which had a hardboard router plate that had screws about 4 inches too long holding it in. The thing hadn't been used in a couple of years and this fall during shed cleanout got left outside one night and rained upon. So it continued to stay outside and got tossed as part of the fall cleanup. Finally needed to use a router again for a project for Her and since neither one of us liked the old craftsman router of my brother's that I took because he never used it she bought me a new ryobi table/router combo that I quickly found out isn't enough for my needs. Which is why the new table is being made. Waiting for the T-track to arrive now...thank you who ever it was that mentioned it went on sale as I got lucky and she bought me 2 sets of it with the t-track and pieces. Should get it together next week if nothing else takes up my time.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

DerekO said:


> Found out I couldn't reply to PM's either yet too.


Nope.. its to make it tougher for spambots and their ilk.. but as I said, in less than 5 minutes you can get in 10.. and get to know some new people!


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## sometimewoodworker (Feb 13, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> Yes, it is bottomed out. I was under the impression that was better - more collet surface area to grab onto the bit. I was going with a logical safer approach. Wrong?


Chris 

Yes as others have said it is wrong and there is a thread on the subject here http://www.routerforums.com/router-...-site-why-not-bottom-out-your-router-bit.html


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

BigJimAK said:


> Nope.. its to make it tougher for spambots and their ilk.. but as I said, in less than 5 minutes you can get in 10.. and get to know some new people!



Hoping to keep finding the time to come here, but have thought that of other forums before.  Too many other things eating up my time.

Just got back from a Home Depot trip, first time out anywhere other than a family activity since October. Saw the Ryobi beginner router table on clearance for $40 and at first thought it was the table/router set She had just bought me a couple of weeks ago until I drove up close enough to it. Outside of a set of clamps I didn't buy anything over $20 yet still spent almost $100.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I posted it in my show and tell thread about the box, but I figured I'd post here to give some payoff to the help given.










It's two 3/4 MDF and a sheet of Formica contact cemented together. The fence is to strips of the same MDF. Nothing fancy, but it works for now. It's currently sitting on an old work table of 2x4s, with cleats on the bottom of the surface so I can remove it but keep it secure.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Looks good Chris. I like the size. I see you offset the router a bit to the left to give you more infeed room. That works. On my small table I have to do a lot of balancing to get my stock squared up right. :wacko:Overall good job, especially for the first one.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

A month later, and I think I'm ready for RT 2.0.

Don't get me wrong, I love the table. Has been excellent. But lugging it up and down the hill is excruciating. I'm currently researching what size I want, and if I can make one with wheels that is stable.

I'd recommend the current table to any beginner. Was super easy.


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