# Guide bearings



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi

Has anyone tried sourcing guide bearings from bearing factors? Where I live there isn't a tool place for miles, so getting single bearings means importing over the internet and by the time you've gone through the rigmarole of postage and import charges on top of what often seem quite high prices for bearings from tool firms, it hardly makes sense.
Most towns, even here, have bearing factors and it occurred to me that provide I specify them correctly, it could be much cheaper and faster.

Any thoughts, please?

Cheers

Peter


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

istracpsboss said:


> Hi
> 
> Has anyone tried sourcing guide bearings from bearing factors? Where I live there isn't a tool place for miles, so getting single bearings means importing over the internet and by the time you've gone through the rigmarole of postage and import charges on top of what often seem quite high prices for bearings from tool firms, it hardly makes sense.
> Most towns, even here, have bearing factors and it occurred to me that provide I specify them correctly, it could be much cheaper and faster.
> ...


I would still recommend guide bearings from router bits manufacturers. They are made differently e.g. special material, no sealed grease and very precise. 
Guide bearings should be cleaned off dust & oiled with light machine oil before and after use. They can even be immersed in solvent brushed with a tooth brush and then reoiled with light machine oil if it gets tight.

Buy spare bearings when you order your router bits otherwise the postage cost of ordering a single bearing may be prohibitive.

Just my opinion..


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

bearings are bearings most towns have a bearing house/suppler in town but not all 

Most bearings have a part number on them, some are very hard to see but if you your micro. out and call the suppler they can help you find the right one...
Most fac. will mot sell to you, they don't sell one at a time, many hardware stores can order the bearing for you if that's any help.
But I'm sure if you call the fac.they will push you off to a dealer  so you are right back to square 1.. I would also suggest you call the Tire outlet they may have a hook up for bearing and I'm sure they do 
You may also have a elec. motor repair shop in town that would be a good spot .. 


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istracpsboss said:


> Hi
> 
> Has anyone tried sourcing guide bearings from bearing factors? Where I live there isn't a tool place for miles, so getting single bearings means importing over the internet and by the time you've gone through the rigmarole of postage and import charges on top of what often seem quite high prices for bearings from tool firms, it hardly makes sense.
> Most towns, even here, have bearing factors and it occurred to me that provide I specify them correctly, it could be much cheaper and faster.
> ...


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

"bearings are bearings'


I would not go that far. I got some replacement bearing through Sears that were for a band saw and they literally exploded in less than a week. The original bearings only lasted 18 months as it was, but the replacements obviously were even a worse quality. 

I have Carter bearings on my old Delta that are 8 years old and are like new so their must be some differences.

I have found the skate board shops actually have and can get some excellent bearings and I have had good luck with those. I guess in line skates are really hard on bearings or something. They have gotten me little 5mm bearings up to over 1 1/4" so they must have a good source. I used a skate board company on ebay, but I do not see them anymore.

I do see at least 3 places on ebay that sell bearings give it a go.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nick

He can always request the the brand name he wants 
At one time a ran my own machine shop and I had many,many catalogs on bearings.
They are like router bits and are in many diff.price ranges ..
You don't want to put in a 1.00 dollar bearing in a 5000.oo tool.. 
But I will say most router bits have a very low end bearing on them...

Timken
http://www.timken.com/en-us/products/bearings/Pages/default.aspx


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## boldford (Jan 21, 2009)

I would have thought that so long as the bearing dimensions, sealing and speed rating are OK you'd have no problems from a bearing factor. Take an existing bearing along with you and explain its application. I'm pretty cetain most factors would be helpful.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Did you look at the Trend range, they are just about the biggest in routing in the world, and they do a large range of bearings.
Derek.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Porter Cable is still the world leader in routing(sales volume) and outsells all the others combined. Now that they are owned by Black & Decker along with De Walt the name may change but the market saturation still exists.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

derek willis said:


> Did you look at the Trend range, they are just about the biggest in routing in the world, and they do a large range of bearings.
> Derek.


Hi Derek

Funnily enough, a search of their site for 'guide bearings" or just "bearings", produced nothing. I know they sell them. A manual search found them under cutter spares. However, clicking on individual groups returned nothing in them.
Very strange!

I used to rate Trend, whose products were that bit more expensive but who had a good reputation. Some products, though, seem to be Chinese imports with Trend prices. Their Varijig uses the same parts as Rutlands' Chinese clamp grip guides. I've a Trend cutter set that I got off eBay that I'm certain is Chinese.

Cheers

Peter


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I like the Trend vari jig, it is heavy metal, does not flex and does what the 450.00 Festool MFS vari-jig does for 89.00.

Actually, I like all my Trend stuff. From the Air pro visor to my T-4.

Chinese does not mean bad in itself, so I do not get that. If the stuff is bad fine, but the Chinese only manufacture to the specs given and if the company passes off stuff that is not good that is the companies fault, not the Chinese manufacturers. A company can say no that is not made well enough and believe me the Chinese would than make it to specs. This blaming the Chinese is wrong. Actually the company trying to make a buck is at fault they have the final say in the products or parts they use and sell. You get what you pay for and so does any company that buys and resells an item or contracts for parts. Most Chinese made items are not owned by Chinese companies for the end product.

My Chinese made Craftsmen table saw rocks and has been solid and perfect for 4 years of use so far and gets a 5 star rating from everyone I have talked to and every reveiw I read.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Peter,
That's a bit strange, their paper version has, on page 100, I think, a long list of different size bearings.
Derek.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I don't know what's happening to me, once again I'm 100% in agreement with Bj. Size and quality can be specified from the bearing supply houses and in MY opinion are all generally better than those supplied with all but the most expensive brands of cutters.


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

I just noticed that at Lowes, in the nut & bolt isle, they have a drawer labeled "project bearings". Yippee!! Then I looked in the drawer...empty. They just closed out on them and won't be getting any more.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

adaptor bushings and ball bearing guides
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/katana_bits7.htm

with free shipping get them at your door step..
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sofasurfer said:


> I just noticed that at Lowes, in the nut & bolt isle, they have a drawer labeled "project bearings". Yippee!! Then I looked in the drawer...empty. They just closed out on them and won't be getting any more.


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## SiteSeekerInc (Apr 19, 2010)

An additional source for bearings and bearing information is Pacamor,


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Peter:

The last time I bought bearings I went to a local supplier and paid an exorbitant price for a 1/4" x 3/16" x 1/2." I then ordered 5 from BusyBee for less than I paid for the one from my local bearing vendor. Even LeeValley was cheaper than he was.

Do you not have access to bearing vendors in Rijeka or Zagreb or even Italy? One of the biggest problems I have when I move is to find all of the services that I need. Are things like fasteners, bearings, metals, woods not available locally?


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## Soapdish (Jan 18, 2010)

I use to work for a bearing manufacturer and I can tell you based on the bearings I've seen on and in tools, most use "average" bearings. One of the earlier threads said that the guide bearings are "precision"...lol. they've never seen precision. Just measure the I.D, O.D and the thickness and that will help you order what you need. I've ordered from this site in the passed and had good service. Radial bearings ,which is what kind we are talking about here, and designed for a radial load (like from one side of the bearing to the other). My point is when you hold a radial bearing in your hand it will have some axial movement, but should not have much radial movement. The more radial movement=wear or cheapness.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> I don't know what's happening to me, once again I'm 100% in agreement with Bj. Size and quality can be specified from the bearing supply houses and in MY opinion are all generally better than those supplied with all but the most expensive brands of cutters.


Hi Harry:

Almost all the bearings I can get here are SKF. There is another brand that I can't remember the name but SKF seem to have almost a monopoly. I've tried a variety of vendors both locally and in major centres across Canada with the same result.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Peter, there's usually a couple of guys at the flee market that have a bunch of bearings here in Zagreb. If you let me know the sizes i could check it out.

Try this skf dealer in pula.

SKF-PAOLO ŠKROBONJA d.o.o. - Poslovnica Pula
Segment:	Industrijski program
Adresa:	Tršćanska 20
52100 Pula
Telefon:	052-540 314
Faks:	052-540 314

Kontakt:	Eda Benazić


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Ron, SKF bearings are what I normally buy, they generally have them in different grades. When I had my video repair business I used a lot of bearings in video head lower drums and these had to be silent, so I would get the far more expensive version.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Ron, SKF bearings are what I normally buy, they generally have them in different grades. When I had my video repair business I used a lot of bearings in video head lower drums and these had to be silent, so I would get the far more expensive version.


Jake: Is there some way that I can tell the grade or quality other than a "shake test?" Obviously you have the experience but can you impart some of that knowledge to the rest of us? Something in the numbering?

For Harry to spend extra money he must have some way of qualifying it to his customers. I'm sure his supplier didn't want to lose a good client either by giving him poor product.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Ron, lower drum assemblies were considered by all VCR manufacturers to be non repairable items and so the bearings were not available as a spare part. The reason for this was because the assembling of the mechanical parts was incredibly accurate, any more than a degree or two of error between the parts would lead to picture errors ranging from "flag waving" at the top of the picture to non compatibility between the repaired machine and all other machines.
I made a jig which enabled all the parts to be reassembled in the exact position that they were dismantled. The most common reason for bearing replacement was excessive noise.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Ron, lower drum assemblies were considered by all VCR manufacturers to be non repairable items and so the bearings were not available as a spare part. The reason for this was because the assembling of the mechanical parts was incredibly accurate, any more than a degree or two of error between the parts would lead to picture errors ranging from "flag waving" at the top of the picture to non compatibility between the repaired machine and all other machines.
> I made a jig which enabled all the parts to be reassembled in the exact position that they were dismantled. The most common reason for bearing replacement was excessive noise.


So, you came by the template world honestly then -- an extension of your journeyman days.

I think it was Mick Jagger who said that every man must pay an apprenticeship of 10,000 hours to qualify for his profession. I'll add that to be a professional one must do the research to expand the knowledge of his (her) craft. It is obvious that you have done that.

Now, I'm going to ask you a few questions. On your template boards, you use a cam board for the workpiece level, then screws to hold your template in place. Have you ever tried wedges instead of cams? In my mind, I could have a top and a side batten that are fixed to the "mother board" and wedges that hold the workpiece to those battens. That would create a constant registration for all templates and workpieces. Repeatability would be assured.

I notice that to use (thumb)screws to hold your templates in place, the templates need to be quite thick yet I make my templates out of luan or 1/8 - 1/4 MDF. How would you modify your setup to "adjust" to thin templates?

Have you ever stacked templates? Where you use one template for one thing, remove it and there is the next to add to the depth of cut on the workpiece, etc?

For the sake of argument, I'm going to say that a "pattern" is what one uses to make a "template." The "template" is what one uses to make the finished product.

Do you "adjust" to the size of your template or do you have a pattern that cuts a constant size for your templates? (does this make sense?) Are your patterns always 12" x 15" and you use have a pattern that you use to give you the perfect sized template every time? Or, do you adjust your "mother board" (cam board + frame + pattern holding screws, etc.) to fit each template?

Do you have different sized "mother boards" or do you have one "preferred size" for all projects?

In order to centre a template over the workpiece on the cam board, do you have centring marks or some other method to ensure that the workpiece is properly aligned with the template?

I'm not sure this makes sense. If not, I'll try to figure out how to say it in another way.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

allthunbs said:


> So, you came by the template world honestly then -- an extension of your journeyman days.
> 
> I think it was Mick Jagger who said that every man must pay an apprenticeship of 10,000 hours to qualify for his profession. I'll add that to be a professional one must do the research to expand the knowledge of his (her) craft. It is obvious that you have done that.
> 
> ...


Wow Ron, I was going to post my latest tutorial this evening, but I' leave it for tomorrow as I attempt to answer your questions.
I use two sizes of jig holders, 12" x 15" and 12 x 12", the former is the main size and I make the jigs and holders to be a good fit, the side screws that you mention are largely redundant these days, they were actually an experiment. Because I have several jig holders, the sizes vary a mm or two so I use bits of Laminex to keep the jigs and templates tight in the jig holders. The first shot shows three types of jigs that I use, a plain one when I hold the material by pinning a piece of scrap MDF against each side, a cam jig and one where I use plastic shelf supports. The other shots of the end wall of my shed show various jig holders, jigs and templates. I have never stacked templates and can't think of any reason why I would want or need to, some projects require more than one template in which case one comes out and the other goes in. For some projects the template is rotated or flipped over several times. Because the templates sit on top of the wood and is a good fit in the jig holder, the only marks that I sometimes use is an asterisk in the front right corner of the template and jig holder to ensure complete repeatability. 

I hope this makes the penny drop Ron, if not, keep asking.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Wow Ron, I was going to post my latest tutorial this evening, but I' leave it for tomorrow as I attempt to answer your questions.


You just did.



> I use two sizes of jig holders, 12" x 15" and 12 x 12", the former is the main size and I make the jigs and holders to be a good fit, the side screws that you mention are largely redundant these days, they were actually an experiment.


So the obvious next question is how thick are your 12"x15" templates? Are the 12x12 the same thickness, or do you vary thickness depending on the application.? What went wrong with the experiment? 

Now I note in all of this that you're using your 40mm clear plastic guides and that you're making allowance for your bit to guide clearance. For "blind" cuts I use the 3/4" O.D. guide with a 1/4" bit. That gives me 1/4" that I have to allow for between the template guide edge and the cut edge of the workpiece.

How thick are your workpieces and do you change anything with thicker pieces as opposed to thinner ones?



> Because I have several jig holders, the sizes vary a mm or two so I use bits of Laminex to keep the jigs and templates tight in the jig holders.


But, you have a permanent "corner" that you use to "register" all of the templates to the workpieces?

Is this size variance by chance or by golly? In my mind it would be a simple requirement to take a template on a blank board and put four "sides" on it.

Have you tried angling inward the edges of the template boards slightly so they will wedge themselves into the frame?



> The first shot shows three types of jigs that I use, a plain one when I hold the material by pinning a piece of scrap MDF against each side, a cam jig and one where I use plastic shelf supports. The other shots of the end wall of my shed show various jig holders, jigs and templates.


I note all three. Now, under what circumstances to you use each or are these "evolutions."

I also note that you didn't use wedges. Reason?

The inventory of holders, jigs and templates needs more explanation.



> I have never stacked templates and can't think of any reason why I would want or need to, some projects require more than one template in which case one comes out and the other goes in. For some projects the template is rotated or flipped over several times.


I can't think of any reason either, only that I could see it if I were to do a 3D workpiece or some shadow boxes.



> Because the templates sit on top of the wood and is a good fit in the jig holder, the only marks that I sometimes use is an asterisk in the front right corner of the template and jig holder to ensure complete repeatability.


I was wondering when you'd get to the marking part. I'm doing the ceiling on my carport and I'm marking every corner and where it is supposed to go and in two languages so I don't screw up too badly.



> I hope this makes the penny drop Ron, if not, keep asking.


Pennies don't drop here only anvils and, usually, on me. Got the thick skull to prove it.

Onward and upward Harry. Talk soon.

Ron


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Most of my templates are 3/8" (actually 9mm) but on occasions I use whatever is in stock.For both jig holders the above applies. The side screws turned out to be more trouble than they were worth. Bit to guide clearance, so as not to confuse other members is known as "offset".
Work pieces for my projects are rarely over 1 3/8". The only thing that changes with the thickness of the work piece are the side extensions of the jig holder.
The slight variation in size of my jig holders is because of my occasional lack of precision. My templates as shown in many threads are simple and relatively quick to make, adding sides would be a chore and still, my occasional lack of precision could lead to the very same problem.
At first glance the tapered template seemed a great idea however, because the template sits on top of the work piece, which can vary each time that the template is used, I had to reluctantly discard the idea.
Regarding which jig/holder to use, this is purely random, except for forum tutorials where I like to demonstrate my various types. The shelf supports came first, followed by the cams and finally the plain jig pinning scrap pieces of MDF or ply around the work piece. On a couple of occasions, when making the large Jarrah French balloon clocks, I've cut the wood to be a perfect fit into the jig holder, which meant routing three pieces of Jarrah, each 1 1/8" thick then gluing them together.
Whilst Bj's method of using wedges has lots of merit,the systems that I use have proved to be efficient, so, as they say "when you're on to a good thing, stick to it"! 
Stacking templates for 3D routing could only produce very simple results. the 3D routing system sold around the world under different names uses, as shown, a cone with a "V" bit protruding. The templates (which I wouldn't and probably couldn't make) have tapered cut-outs, as the opening widens, the cone moves down, as of course does the cutter leaving a pattern where the depth of cut varies, 3D!
Finally, PHEW, I haven't quite reached the stage where I need to mark all four corners!


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

OK, now we're getting somewhere ;-)



harrysin said:


> Most of my templates are 3/8" (actually 9mm) but on occasions I use whatever is in stock.For both jig holders the above applies. The side screws turned out to be more trouble than they were worth. Bit to guide clearance, so as not to confuse other members is known as "offset".


And I went and got 1/8 and 1/4 MDF just for templates. I'll have to go find some 3/8 now. :-(



> Work pieces for my projects are rarely over 1 3/8". The only thing that changes with the thickness of the work piece are the side extensions of the jig holder.


"side extensions" being used to increase the height of the sides that hold the template and workpiece?



> The slight variation in size of my jig holders is because of my occasional lack of precision. My templates as shown in many threads are simple and relatively quick to make, adding sides would be a chore and still, my occasional lack of precision could lead to the very same problem.


In my shop they're called "occasional indiscretions." On frustrating days they're called [email protected]#$%%^^&&**()!!!!!



> At first glance the tapered template seemed a great idea however, because the template sits on top of the work piece, which can vary each time that the template is used, I had to reluctantly discard the idea.


Hmmm, experience talking. Ok, I'll take that idea and chuck it.



> Regarding which jig/holder to use, this is purely random, except for forum tutorials where I like to demonstrate my various types. The shelf supports came first, followed by the cams and finally the plain jig pinning scrap pieces of MDF or ply around the work piece.


How do you use the "plain jig pinning scrap pieces of MDF or ply around the work piece"? More details please. Brain in scramble mode trying to remember if I'm supposed to remember having (not) seen this before.










Shelf clip and cam is well discussed on the forum but the scrap -- whoa you don't use scrap. You use Jarrah wood or something. You mean you have scraps in your shop?



> On a couple of occasions, when making the large Jarrah French balloon clocks, I've cut the wood to be a perfect fit into the jig holder, which meant routing three pieces of Jarrah, each 1 1/8" thick then gluing them together.
> Whilst Bj's method of using wedges has lots of merit,the systems that I use have proved to be efficient, so, as they say "when you're on to a good thing, stick to it"!


Have you ever contemplated using a vacuum table? How about the double stick tape method?

Of all methods which is the "quick and dirty" one for that "utility" project that doesn't need to look good?



> Stacking templates for 3D routing could only produce very simple results. the 3D routing system sold around the world under different names uses, as shown, a cone with a "V" bit protruding. The templates (which I wouldn't and probably couldn't make) have tapered cut-outs, as the opening widens, the cone moves down, as of course does the cutter leaving a pattern where the depth of cut varies, 3D!


I thought those were for starting letters in signs. Well, chalk one up to misconception. Thanks for putting that one straight.



> Finally, PHEW, I haven't quite reached the stage where I need to mark all four corners!


Nuts, I mark the top and bottom, which is front and which is back, the four corners on both sides and colour code the edges just in case and I'm only doing architectural detailing ;-) and I still make misteaks!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

1/8" is definately out, 1/4" is marginal.
You're not studying my threads Ron, as distinct from just glancing at them. Take another look at shot #13 of my tutorial "arouting tutorial for beginners" this clearly shows the use of the plain jig.
I tend to keep most scrap pieces bigger than about 3" x 1", they are always coming in handy in my busy shed.
A vacuum table, no, but if I was into CNC routing I certainly would have.
I don't often use double sided tape, I've found two types, one that is unreliable in it's grip and the other that sticks so well that it's difficult to remove even using a hair drier. It also leaves a residue. I find it's best use is on plastics.
As for the quick one off jobs, I use whatever comes into my head on the day, which could be totally different for the same job a few weeks later. It's for this very reason that I'm attempting to teach different ways in which the router can be used, so that beginners to routing will have a distinct advantage over experienced wood workers who are fixed in their ways and unwilling to try new methods.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Harry:



harrysin said:


> 1/8" is definately out, 1/4" is marginal.


Ok, I've got a 4'x8' sheet of this stuff. Any suggestions?



> You're not studying my threads Ron, as distinct from just glancing at them. Take another look at shot #13 of my tutorial "arouting tutorial for beginners" this clearly shows the use of the plain jig.


Hey hold on. I said my brain was in scramble mode. Gimme a break. It's not easy trying to keep all of this stuff organized. You write a book and expect me to get it all in a second. I have very looooooong seconds. Remember, I've not converted to "instant" metric.

Ok, I've got that bit but I refer you to the image below where you have drilled large holes and created fixed sides for some function. Is this an experiment that didn't work?

Now, can I have a blowup picture showing the "mother board" (I come from the computer world remember) the frame, the holding method (cleats, pin blocks, cams, clips, whatever) the workpiece, the template and then the whole mess assembled in steps. 

I also note that there are motherboards for taking nails (pins), another style for shelf clips, another style with insert nuts for bolts holding cams and, another for wedges.



> I tend to keep most scrap pieces bigger than about 3" x 1", they are always coming in handy in my busy shed.


Given the rate at which I have to remake attempts, I now use a cabinet to hold scraps. The philosophy is that I won't have to wait long for that "perfect scrap" to come around again, the rest feed the stove.



> A vacuum table, no, but if I was into CNC routing I certainly would have. I don't often use double sided tape, I've found two types, one that is unreliable in it's grip and the other that sticks so well that it's difficult to remove even using a hair drier. It also leaves a residue. I find it's best use is on plastics.


Do you have a brand name for the unreliable kind. I've still got projects with the "impregnable welded on type" stuck on. 



> As for the quick one off jobs, I use whatever comes into my head on the day, which could be totally different for the same job a few weeks later. It's for this very reason that I'm attempting to teach different ways in which the router can be used, so that beginners to routing will have a distinct advantage over experienced wood workers who are fixed in their ways and unwilling to try new methods.


That's the story of my life. Unfortunately, I don't use what comes into my head, I use what's at hand and usually try to make it fit. There's a reason I have 27 hammers. 

Thanks for the info Harry. My notes are getting more complete by the day. Just a few more centuries to go.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Harry:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm quite certain that your questions are purely rhetorical Ron, however I'm doing my best to answer them because there may well be some members too shy to ask the very same ones.

How about making some blanket boxes out of your 8' x 4' sheet of "stuff"

I don't know what picture you refer to, there was no attachment.

I'm sure these photographs explain fully how the system works.

I think the time has come Ron for YOU to post a photo shoot, perhaps a trinket box, surprise us with it's construction.

Amongst the brands of d.s. tape was a different type of Scotch and Bear brand, popular over here for adhesives and various tapes like masking tape.

In summary Ron, perhaps you should print out my tutorials so that you can study them in depth in all your spare moments or perhaps record a commentary/description on a closed loop cassette and keep it running all night, nice and softly, this way you will subliminally take it all in!


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

thanks Gav. Sorry to be slow spotting this. I've been building a load of bookshelves for someone. I originally posted this last year and I got some bearings from the bearing factor in Porec. The metric ones were cheap enough, but the imperial ones they regarded as specials and were dearer.

Cheers

Peter



gav said:


> Peter, there's usually a couple of guys at the flee market that have a bunch of bearings here in Zagreb. If you let me know the sizes i could check it out.
> 
> Try this skf dealer in pula.
> 
> ...


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