# Best method to band plywood without tear out



## Slomoe (Feb 14, 2011)

I need to put some ¾” x 3” oak on ¾” plywood as edging. I have been just butt gluing it on but this is wide and it’s the edge of an entertainment unit. So I’d like the opinion of some well seasoned woodworker as to which bit to buy. I have been looking at one called an edge banding bit with a 60 degree top and bottom cut and a tongue in the center. I’m wondering if the 60 degree will be a problem with tear out and chipping on the plywood. That is a sharp pointed angle and seems like trouble on plywood even though the description states – “trim your plywood edges with hardwood using this bit.” Would a straight tongue and groove glue joint be better? I see Eagle ads listed here so some sample P/N’s would be the P16-4043 the 60 degree w/T&G bit, P16-4012 rev. T&G, P16-4017 T&G and the P16-4016 tapered T&G bits. I also see slot cutters. Do they have up/down shear grind on them in the T&G sets? I have very few bits, very little money and want to get the right one the first time. I have not done any board glue ups as I don’t have a planer and any slight misalignment will be a problem so I plan my projects around plywood with oak edging and frames. Any other method used that would get me a nice flush alignment with the least tear out, I would consider too. Thanks


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Tim,

I would go with the tongue and groove principal.
You could use a 1/4" slot cutter on both pieces ans use 1/4 ply as the tongue.

Does the ply match the oak?


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## Slomoe (Feb 14, 2011)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Tim,
> 
> I would go with the tongue and groove principal.
> You could use a 1/4" slot cutter on both pieces ans use 1/4 ply as the tongue.
> ...


Yes the plywood will be red oak like the trim.
The 60 degree bit looks easy in the picture but I’m really worried about the tear out when going cross grain on the ends of the ply. So, I am thinking a 4 wing ¼” slot cutter may be the best way to put the slot in the ply. Why risk messing up the clean cut from the saw. For the Oak trim, I was thinking of this strange method. Infinity has a ¾” or 1 ¼” diameter mortise & tenon bit that is ½” high (P/N 01-817) with down shear cutting action. I could use it like a rabbiting bit to cut the Oak tongue and have less chance of tear out in the Oak too. I could also use it to plane or rabbit the oak on the bottom side to match the plywood thickness so if I glue or screw on a support, or cleat, or for clamping I will have equal thickness and good alignment. I don’t have a planer. I have to use the odd ball sizes the big box stores sell. Plus I would have a mortising bit if I need to hang a door. Most people would use a rabbit bit, but the down shear action sounds like a plus for tear out insurance. Does this method sound ok? I will be doing this on a router table.
Off topic but strange – I get my first reply and welcome from someone on the other side of the world, and my son just moved to the other side too. – to Melbourne, Australia


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Tim,

Just let your son know that Sydney is much better than Melbourne.....ROTFL.

Melbourne has half the rainfall of Sydney, but rains on twice as many days in the year.


PS there will be others around shortly with other suggestions to help you.


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

*biscuits*

I would do what we did in the high end cabinet shop I used to work at...biscuits.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tim

I would also 2nd the biscuits way,,the banding bits are nice but not on plywood,once you get the nice clean cut with the table saw the last thing you want to do is use a router bit on it,, it will rip out that fine edge..plywood is plywood..it takes more time with all the clamps but you will end up with a nice job.

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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

I'd take a step back and ask about the purpose and placement of the wide banding, and about the stresses to which it might be subjected. Also, will the banding extend around corners? If so, what joinery will be used? 

Additionally, have you considered the finishing issues? Depending on how the red-oak veneer on the plywood was cut, it will likely finish differently than the solid wood banding.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Bob

Would you really use biscuits for this? Surely the banding would need to be over 1/2" thick or the biscuits would break through?

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Yes,,  I would use the very small biscuits and the very small slot cutter.
But not in the normal way, just one slot all the way down the plywood board and the banding,,in that way you don't need to line up all the biscuits slots..at glue up time..almost like the spline way but the biscuits will swell up and lock the joint unlike the spline way..

For cabinet or face framing.

5/32" Slot Cutter (1-15/16" LD) 
#9020 250 #20 2-3/8" x 1" x 5/32" $18.00
#9024 100 #11 1-13/32" Dia. Circle x 5/32" $16.00
#9026 100 #H-9 1-1/2" x 1/2" x 1/8" $11.00

Biscuit kits and Glue Spreader


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istracpsboss said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> Would you really use biscuits for this? Surely the banding would need to be over 1/2" thick or the biscuits would break through?
> 
> ...


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