# router bits



## itutormath (Mar 22, 2012)

Hi everyone,

I'm new here. I haven't used a router before and am looking to make a bookcase wall. I've used many different power tools and I'm a DIYer with the house and my autos. Any suggestions on who's bits to use for such a project?

Eric


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

itutormath said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I'm new here. I haven't used a router before and am looking to make a bookcase wall. I've used many different power tools and I'm a DIYer with the house and my autos. Any suggestions on who's bits to use for such a project?
> 
> Eric


Welcome to the router forum.

Thank you for joining us, Eric.

This is a very open question. The answer would depend on what router you plan to use and also what joints you are going to use in the bookcase. 

Do you have plans for the bookcase? the plans should show what type of joinery is used,

A basic set of 5 -10 bits should cover all you requirements as they usually have an assortment of the most commonly used bits.

For a one off job like that I would not be too concerned about brands....


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## itutormath (Mar 22, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> Welcome to the router forum.
> 
> Thank you for joining us, Eric.
> 
> ...



Hi James,

Thanks for responding. I'm doing mortise and tenon joins and rounding of edges. The back of the bookcases will be fixed to the studs of the wall, acting as what would normally be sheetrock. I'm using a Bosch 1617EVSPK router. 

Eric


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Eric, time to do your homework and read the Sticky threads, lots of good information in them. I suggest people starting off with routers buy the 10 piece Woodline bit set from Woodcraft.(This is their house brand) There are a couple of reasons for this; the store personel are very knowledgeable and can answer any questions you may have. The bits have a quality guaranty. This set contains the 10 bits used most often. This set often goes on sale for about $50 in either 1/4" or 1/2" shanks. I bought both sets so I can use them in all my routers. I suggest you purchase the 1/2" shank set. Here is a link to the Phoenix store: Chandler Woodworking Supplies at Woodcraft – Woodworking Store in Chandler, AZ

I highly recommend you purchase and use the Bosch RA1173AT dust collection accessories. You can find the best price on this on Amazon.


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## Idonno (Mar 19, 2012)

In an article in Fine Woodworking of the 17 top manufactures router bits that were tested both Eagle and Whiteside came out #1 although Whiteside also won best value as well.

Like Woodline, Whiteside is also sold by Woodcraft.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Whiteside bits are always ranked at the top of product testing. They are premium bits which last longer, can be sharpened more times and provide real value for your money. For someone who will be using their bits for odd jobs there is no reason to lay out the money for premium bits. Average quality bits will be a better value for the amount of use they will get. In addition to this people make mistakes with their bits as they are learning to use their routers. I think it is much better to trash a $5 bit than a $15 bit.


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## LiLRdWgn (Dec 31, 2011)

*YONICO Router Bits*

Good Morning All. Wife gave me a project, build some picture frames. Does anyone have any experience with the YONICO bits? Made a quick pass with one of them and it looks good. Pricing was good with free shipping. One bit was $15.95 and the other was $19.95. Good or Bad Please let me know. Thanks All


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## Idonno (Mar 19, 2012)

From what little I was able to find out about them they are probably not great. That said, I have found that unless they are very poor, the biggest difference in carbide router bits is the better ones make clean cuts for a much longer time. 

With that in mind I wholeheartedly agree with Mike's statement that: "For someone who will be using their bits for odd jobs there is no reason to lay out the money for premium bits." So as long as you don't plan on putting them to frequent use and they cut well long enough for your project(s) your good to go!

Unfortunately, I don't know enough about YONICO (in fact almost nothing) to give you a definitive answer one way or the other.

What I use are MCLS bits for infrequent usage and premium bits like Whiteside, Lee Valley, Freud, Amana, CMT etc. for bits I use more heavily.


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## Idonno (Mar 19, 2012)

Idonno said:


> From what little I was able to find out about them they are probably not great. That said, I have found that unless they are very poor, the biggest difference in carbide router bits is the better ones make clean cuts for a much longer time.


 There is one thing I think I should add which is: you do have to be a little careful about quality for safety reasons. It is rare but not unheard of for some very poor quality carbide bits to lose the carbide blade while rotating at high speed in a router. This happened to a friend of mine and can be quite dangerous!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Studly*



itutormath said:


> Hi James,
> 
> Thanks for responding. I'm doing mortise and tenon joins and rounding of edges. The back of the bookcases will be fixed to the studs of the wall, acting as what would normally be sheetrock. I'm using a Bosch 1617EVSPK router.
> 
> Eric


Hi, Eric; I'm not quite sure if I understood you on the drywall/stud comment. You _must _transfer the mass of the fully loaded bookcase directly to the wall framing! Should it peel away from the wall, say a small earthquake, it would crush anyone unfortunate enough to be standing in front of it.
Normally, one would run a rail horizontally across the entire width of the bookcase, directly below the top, so that looking at it head on you'd see a 3"x3/4" structural piece integral with all the gables and top...glued and screwed!
You then use long screws through the rail, back, drywall and into your pre-located studs. I normally do the same thing at the bottom as well.

An 8'x8' bookcase could easily weigh 1,000 lbs fully loaded. 
Cheers,
-Dan


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## LiLRdWgn (Dec 31, 2011)

Idonno said:


> From what little I was able to find out about them they are probably not great. That said, I have found that unless they are very poor, the biggest difference in carbide router bits is the better ones make clean cuts for a much longer time.
> 
> With that in mind I wholeheartedly agree with Mike's statement that: "For someone who will be using their bits for odd jobs there is no reason to lay out the money for premium bits." So as long as you don't plan on putting them to frequent use and they cut well long enough for your project(s) your good to go!
> 
> ...


Thanks Idonno, I have a couple of the CMT bits. Some of the reasoning for the YONICO, I like the profile of one of them. I could not find anything close to it. LOL, and also, everything I do I have to change it in some way. 
Also, LOL, way back, (well over 50 years ago) my shop teacher hated to give us a project, I'd come up with something that made him dig deep in his memory files. But then too, if he needed something special done, he'd come to me. He would come to my other classes and pull me out to do something, LOL, that was fine with Me. :lol:


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

I have a few of the Yonico bits I bought off Ebay. They are bits that will get little use so they should serve me well. The 2 or 3 I have used do cut OK so all in all they were a good bargain for a low end bit.


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## itutormath (Mar 22, 2012)

*thanks and info*



DaninVan said:


> Hi, Eric; I'm not quite sure if I understood you on the drywall/stud comment. You _must _transfer the mass of the fully loaded bookcase directly to the wall framing! Should it peel away from the wall, say a small earthquake, it would crush anyone unfortunate enough to be standing in front of it.
> Normally, one would run a rail horizontally across the entire width of the bookcase, directly below the top, so that looking at it head on you'd see a 3"x3/4" structural piece integral with all the gables and top...glued and screwed!
> You then use long screws through the rail, back, drywall and into your pre-located studs. I normally do the same thing at the bottom as well.
> 
> ...


Hi Dan,

Thanks for responding. Yes, maybe I wasn't clear enough. I've already installed the new wall and have sheetrocked the foyer side. The office side is still non sheetrocked. Sorry if I wasn't deep enough about my background. I'm an engineer and understand loading. The bookcases will be attached to the studs. The crown molding will be attached to the ceiling and the top of the bookcases. The baseboard molding will be attached to the 2x4 recessed framing which the bookcases will be sitting on. My initial post was to see what kind of router bits I'd need for the joins, and I want to thank everyone who responded for the links and input.

Eric


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