# I think I want a pin nailer



## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I am seriously considering getting the HF pin nailer to help me with my projects. I know that a few of you have gotten it, so I wanted to ask a couple of questions:

1) the 1" length. If I am using 3/4" stock, how helpful would the 1" length be in helping a glued joint? Obviously, if I use a 3/8" rabbet on the joint, I wouldn't have any issue, correct?
2) air supply. I do not own any air tools. Really don't have a need for any (that I know of) besides the nailer. I've read that a pin nailer doesn't use that much air per nail, so would an air tank work?

Thanks.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Chris..

just an opinion here, but in 3/4" stock, a 1" pin will do more to help keep the stock "aligned" than it will help keeping the stock held together. Pinning into endgrain tends to exasperate the problem as well. If your surfaces are flat and true to each other and there are no forces working to pull them apart, ya might get away with it. I'd still throw a couple clamps on it, just to be safe.

as for air supply, Sure, a air tank will work w/regulator. You might look into the newish CO2 rigs that are becoming more popular. A propane sized tank you can hang from your belt...pro's and con's to this setup, as there is with anything else...Personally I'd shop around for a used small pancake style compressor...


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

So glue and clamps should be all I need? I guess I'm a little worried about the cabinet collapsing on itself. Not that a pin nail would do anything about that, but still.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Chris

The pin nailer is a great tool but not a all in one nailer,I would suggest the pin nailer and one of the brad nailer to go with it, you will need a air tank for both but you don't need a big one to run them.
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This is one of the things you can do with the pin nailer (see snapshot,1" long holding the stock in place ) that you can do with the brad nailer,,,if you hit the pin the router bit will take it out easy..without any damage to the bit 
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/table-mounted-routing/32972d1265927431-mitre-fence-0931.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/163890-post2.html

A nailer is just a clamp you could say that you don't need to take off and put away once the glue setup up..

On the brad nailer I would suggest getting one that can put in nails and staples from one tool...

The pin nail will put in 1" pin nails but no head to the nail but that's the neat part of the pin nailer, very easy to hide, I don't know if you use templates but they great for that job you can put the tape away if you use the short pins..

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Cocheseuga said:


> I am seriously considering getting the HF pin nailer to help me with my projects. I know that a few of you have gotten it, so I wanted to ask a couple of questions:
> 
> 1) the 1" length. If I am using 3/4" stock, how helpful would the 1" length be in helping a glued joint? Obviously, if I use a 3/8" rabbet on the joint, I wouldn't have any issue, correct?
> 2) air supply. I do not own any air tools. Really don't have a need for any (that I know of) besides the nailer. I've read that a pin nailer doesn't use that much air per nail, so would an air tank work?
> ...


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## Packard (Jan 23, 2010)

For gluing on trim I frequently use this method:

I drive small brads into the glue side of the molding along the length. I then take a wire nipper and trim the brad to about 1/16 of an inch. I apply the glue and use clamps to press the exposed brad wires into the base cabinet.

The brads keep the molding from slipping while clamping. The brads are entirely invisible when the assembly is done. It requires not brad gun or air.

It is a bit slower (I have a pin nailer and I use it frequently), but it yields a nicer result.

When gluing larger boards I will drive 4 brads in near the corners. I apply the glue and do the alignment using the brads to keep everything aligned. Clamp or weight down as required making sure that the boards seat tightly.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

You might consider a locking rabbet joint. MUCH stronger.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

AxlMyk said:


> You might consider a locking rabbet joint. MUCH stronger.


I was debating that as well. This is 3/4" birch ply if it makes any difference.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> I am seriously considering getting the HF pin nailer to help me with my projects. I know that a few of you have gotten it, so I wanted to ask a couple of questions:
> 
> 1) the 1" length. If I am using 3/4" stock, how helpful would the 1" length be in helping a glued joint? Obviously, if I use a 3/8" rabbet on the joint, I wouldn't have any issue, correct?
> 2) air supply. I do not own any air tools. Really don't have a need for any (that I know of) besides the nailer. I've read that a pin nailer doesn't use that much air per nail, so would an air tank work?
> ...


Hi Chris - 
The little 23 ga pin nailer is one tool that gets a lot more use than I expected it to. I have the PC 1/2" - 1" pinner and use it all the time. I use it to hold glue-ups while I get the clamps on, hold templates in place, hold assembys for dry fitting.... I also use it to locate reference points for things other than woodworking. ie, installing drawer slides, will pin some scrap to the face frame to support the front of the slide while I position the rear brackets..... and so on. Even with 3/4" stock the pins are tenacious and will hold unless it is a large part. Also there is little or no evidence they are there. I think BJ pointed out in another thread that a drop or two of water will swell the wood grain enough that no filling or sanding is required to hide them. I typically use 5/8" pins as there is usually a rabbet or some other feature that reduces stock thickness enough.
As far as air supply, yes, an air bubble will run one a good long time but you may want to look into a small portable compressor. Not a continuous flow. I've seen small Campbell-Hausfelds at Wally World for $60-$70, about $30 more than a good sized air bubble and you don't have to run out to refill it. I have a 6 gallon Porter Cable pancake that is way more than enough for a pinner but I have some other pneumatic stuff also. 
Hope this helps. 

Edit - I just reread Bj's post. +1 on the pinner not being a do-all tool. I also use a 18 ga brad nailer and, in some cases the 16 ga finish nailer. Like all tools, they have strengths as well as limitations. However, I put off getting a pinner for quite a while, not being convinced of how versatile it really is..One of those "wish I had known" deals


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## tdublyou (Jan 8, 2010)

Cocheseuga said:


> I am seriously considering getting the HF pin nailer to help me with my projects. I know that a few of you have gotten it, so I wanted to ask a couple of questions:
> 
> 1) the 1" length. If I am using 3/4" stock, how helpful would the 1" length be in helping a glued joint? Obviously, if I use a 3/8" rabbet on the joint, I wouldn't have any issue, correct?
> 2) air supply. I do not own any air tools. Really don't have a need for any (that I know of) besides the nailer. I've read that a pin nailer doesn't use that much air per nail, so would an air tank work?
> ...


I have the HF pin nailer, and overall I am satisfied with it. It doesn't have the feel or performance that you would get with the more name brand tools, (PC, Bostich, Senco, etc.), but it does the job. I run mine with a pancake compressor but I also have the CO2 system from Lowes and it will power everything up to my 15 ga. finish nailer. I would definitely recommend the CO2 over the air tank. 

Tim


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

I have the HF Pin nailer, actually have two, the first one took a dive on me and they wouldn't take it back with out the box; bought a second one and put the first one in the box, and took it back, now I have a spare. 

I agree with BJ you will end up needing both nailers, one thing with the pins using a 1" pin on hardwood will some times work and other times the pin takes a U turn and the point comes back out right next the nailer. When that happens it's a bear to get them out. I had to go digging and then patch in a couple of places because of the pins doing a U turn.


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

I wanted to get the pin nailer but they must not have been in stock as She didn't get one with the rest of the purchases. I did get the 18ga 2" brad nailer. My present one only does 1.25". Haven't had a chance to try it out yet as I have spent the time either putting away things from the trips or putting it together (dust collector).

I would say as long as you are going to Harbor Freight anyways, pick up one of their small pancake compressors. They have one in the most recent magazine ads for right around 40 bucks.

Here are the links to the recent extra coupons or magazine ads...the link to the normal ad is on Harbor Freights site. This is all if you are going to the store and not ordering from the catalog or online site as the coupons aren't valid at those two  
Factory Direct To You!
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This site has a Harbor Freight deal thread with the 2nd post always being updated to show the most recent links to the deals.

Harbor Freight Coupon Thread - Page 12 - SlickDeals.net Forums

Depending on how it sorts for you it will either be between the 1st and 2nd post or the last and 2nd to last post in the thread. Wiki Community Board is what you are looking for.

Hope this helps.

I found the place to be dangerous to the pocket book and that was with Her doing the shopping not me.  She is much cheaper than I am when it comes to buying things and we both are scrooges.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Pin nailers and brad nailers are a necessary tool in any shop IMHO. Some projects only require a simple butt joint with glue and a pin or brad nailer will do the job just fine without biscuits, dowels, etc.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Any thoughts on using a finish nail along with that locking rabbet?

Or, some form of joint along with dowels?


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

jd99 said:


> I have the HF Pin nailer, actually have two, the first one took a dive on me and they wouldn't take it back with out the box; bought a second one and put the first one in the box, and took it back, now I have a spare.
> 
> I agree with BJ you will end up needing both nailers, one thing with the pins using a 1" pin on hardwood will some times work and other times the pin takes a U turn and the point comes back out right next the nailer. When that happens it's a bear to get them out. I had to go digging and then patch in a couple of places because of the pins doing a U turn.


Hi Danny,
Anytime you get a shiner with pins or brads & can't pull all the way thru just grab the end with some dikes, but don't cut off just wiggle back & forth & they will break off below the surface. Works with staples too.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Cocheseuga said:


> Any thoughts on using a finish nail along with that locking rabbet?
> 
> Or, some form of joint along with dowels?



This will depend on the thickness of the material being used and the length of the finish nail. The gauge of the nail/pin/brad comes into play as well. Most generally, no. A brad or pin nail will still do the job just fine.

For a locking rabbet, why would you really need to use anything at all? Dowels would be overkill and if you did have to use something, again, brads or pins would work the best. You just have to be wary of the length & gauge of the brad/pin you're using.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Chris

If you watch Norm A. like may do he puts in a brad or pin nail in many joints like I said it a clamp device till the glue sets up..

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Cocheseuga said:


> Any thoughts on using a finish nail along with that locking rabbet?
> 
> Or, some form of joint along with dowels?


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

jlord said:


> Hi Danny,
> Anytime you get a shiner with pins or brads & can't pull all the way thru just grab the end with some dikes, but don't cut off just wiggle back & forth & they will break off below the surface. Works with staples too.


I have missed the board with several brads or otherwise needed to pull one out that had the head or end sticking out too much. I have not been so lucky as to have it break off below the surface yet, but normally will have it break just a bit above the surface making it even harder to remove the brad. Using 18g, 1" to 1.25" brads so far, haven't used the new one that can shoot 2" 18ga brads yet.

Missing the board and forgetting to move my finger after checking is how I ended up shooting a brad nail through the 1/2" plywood, missing the 2nd piece and going into my finger right across the top just under where the fingernail grows past the finger. Still a little black and blue line at the edge of the finger under the fingernail.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

DerekO said:


> I have missed the board with several brads or otherwise needed to pull one out that had the head or end sticking out too much. I have not been so lucky as to have it break off below the surface yet, but normally will have it break just a bit above the surface making it even harder to remove the brad. Using 18g, 1" to 1.25" brads so far, haven't used the new one that can shoot 2" 18ga brads yet.


If you missed board & nail is showing thru backside? you can pull it all the way thru from backside. This method works great for reusing painted trim as you will never see where original nails were. I'll agree the short ones are hard to break off. This does'nt work 100 percent of time but most times it will with minimum damage to surface. 

Use a pair of dikes but don't squeeze hard enough to cut. Grab near end to use as leverage & wiggle back & forth to break. After a few times you will get the hang of it.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

DerekO said:


> I have missed the board with several brads or otherwise needed to pull one out that had the head or end sticking out too much.


Three top reasons brads don't shoot to proper depth is the depth adjust needs to be adjusted on gun, you are not holding gun firmly against material, or the air pressure to gun might be low.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

jlord said:


> Hi Danny,
> Anytime you get a shiner with pins or brads & can't pull all the way thru just grab the end with some dikes, but don't cut off just wiggle back & forth & they will break off below the surface. Works with staples too.


Why dikes ? Won't regular blondes do? 

Cheers

Peter (Who must have been missing something here)


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

istracpsboss said:


> Why dikes ? Won't regular blondes do?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter (Who must have been missing something here)


That works too but you will never finish your project.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

I use a pair of small vise grips ( 4" ) ,less chance of cutting the pin nail off  and the vise grips work like a cam over puller..


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

OK, I did a bit more research to see the actual specs of what pins vs brads vs finish nails were. 23, 18 and 16/15ga, correct? A brad nail would be the best of both worlds, unless I am mistaken. So if I were to look for any one thing, would the brad nailer be my first foray?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Your mistaken , most of the time a brad nailer will split the wood, try this with a brad nailer, but in some on the edge of stock it will act like a wedge and split the wood do the same thing with a pin nailer, try it on some 1/2" thick MDF stock and you can put in 10 or so and it will not crack it open like a nut..try it on some molding same thing..they should call the brad nailer a wood splitter..they have a place in the shop but not for fine/light work.

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Cocheseuga said:


> OK, I did a bit more research to see the actual specs of what pins vs brads vs finish nails were. 23, 18 and 16/15ga, correct? A brad nail would be the best of both worlds, unless I am mistaken. So if I were to look for any one thing, would the brad nailer be my first foray?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Chris,

It depends on what you want to use it for, how you'll be finishing the wood and how finicky you are. So far all I've needed them for was as a clamp while glue dries or to temporarily hold wood together (i.e. template work) so a pin nailer has best met my needs.


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

My problem is normally missing the other board, or a few times misjudging the size I was using or thinking I was doing 3/4" to 3/4" wood and having it stick through. 

Most of the time I am using a needle nose pliers of some sort and getting a grip and then just rolling the pliers over and over. Did just get some new ones with angled ends on them and much larger pliers overall from Harbor Freight. Seemed to work better on the few brads I have had to pull since then.

Rarely is the head too high...except for the one that gouged the ********** out of my aluminum table saw top and after that pounded and pounded and then used a nail set on all brads on the sled and then for good measure added wood putty over every spot that had a brad shot into it. Works wonderful now.

Had worked for a couple of weeks before it gouged the top too, so some how that brad worked loose.


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