# Corner Cabinet



## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

This is my current project, a corner cabinet for the family room. It will be made out of clean pine (no money for a better lumber) with vaneer plywood on the sides / back. Clean pine in Canada, besides that is inexpensive, is a pretty straight and flat lumber and has no knots. 

The two top doors you see in the elevation sketch include an arch and the center of the doors will have a tinted glass with a decorative brass screen on the inside.

My question is how to do the arch on these doors. Would you assemble the doors and then cut the arch on each door or it’s better to first cut the arch on the top pieces and then assemble them?

Thank you,


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

kolias said:


> This is my current project, a corner cabinet for the family room. It will be made out of clean pine (no money for a better lumber) with vaneer plywood on the sides / back. Clean pine in Canada, besides that is inexpensive, is a pretty straight and flat lumber and has no knots.
> 
> The two top doors you see in the elevation sketch include an arch and the center of the doors will have a tinted glass with a decorative brass screen on the inside.
> 
> ...


You can not really cut the arch after without it being more complicated, but you can. I would just make it the old fashion way if these are the only ones you will make. 

Draw a full size scale drawing and cut the piece to fit the drawing. It is simple and straight forward that way. I am sure a lot of guys will throw in a bunch of jigs , but if they are flat panel I think a jig saw for the rough curve and just making them to fit your drawing is the best way. 

Make your doors the way you usually do. After the the initial cuts on the curved parts(make them a little big, 1/8 to 1/4")make an MDF template that copies the curve exactly and smoothly by sanding the template up. Then use the same template for both pieces to get the perfect clean curve, placing it above or below and using the template how you normally do ie. on the table or hand held router. Remember to flip the template for the second one or just make sure the good side of the wood is where you want it.

So many times I have gone to assemble, the pieces are perfect until I have to turn the mirror image over and go to assemble and then see the face is all screwed up. Technically you need not flip the template, but then you have to have the good side face face down while cutting one piece, I always screw that up.
I like to cut the pieces as I see them now.

Cut the pieces, then assemble.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Nice project, you could do a pictorial progress reports on it so we can follow it with you.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Very good advice Nick, much appreciated

Pictorial progress will follow, now I'm in the design stage. Have to zero in on the final exact size, how to make all the joints etc.

Thank you


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI kolias

It will be a fun project... 

You should send off for the right template and the video below if you have not done it b/4... 

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TMP4
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=TMP1

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DVD1
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DVD4

bits below
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=03003
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=03002
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kolias said:


> This is my current project, a corner cabinet for the family room. It will be made out of clean pine (no money for a better lumber) with vaneer plywood on the sides / back. Clean pine in Canada, besides that is inexpensive, is a pretty straight and flat lumber and has no knots.
> 
> The two top doors you see in the elevation sketch include an arch and the center of the doors will have a tinted glass with a decorative brass screen on the inside.
> 
> ...


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Thank you Bobj3, these sites are very good to know for my project.

I try to keep my cost down so I will start with what I have. If I get stuck, and I think that I will with my limited knowledge, then I will get the videos / templates.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome kolias

I know extra money is hard to come by,,,but if you can swing it get the videos,,you will be glad you did  ,,, you can make your own templates once you get it down how they work,you can also use other bits to get the job done, you don't need the high ends ones  off the top of my head I would say about 40.oo in bits or less and the templates can be 1/4" MDF stock to get them down in price..

http://cgi.ebay.com/5-pc-1-2-SH-Oge...50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
http://cgi.ebay.com/3pc-Cove-Raised...50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262
http://cgi.ebay.com/2pc-1-2-SH-Trad...50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262


Cathedral Door Patterns
MLCS_transfer_paper 
Large Pattern Copy Paper

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/cathedral_door.html

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kolias said:


> Thank you Bobj3, these sites are very good to know for my project.
> 
> I try to keep my cost down so I will start with what I have. If I get stuck, and I think that I will with my limited knowledge, then I will get the videos / templates.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Very good prices Bobj3, I wish my birthday was now to ask the family to contribute.

I will see what I can swing..........

Thanks


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

This article might help, too:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/FWNPDF/011138076.pdf

You may need to be an online subscriber to view it, but I think it's only $20/year.


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