# Sears Router Crafter - Need Drive Adapter



## thevillageclockmaker (Aug 31, 2009)

I was wondering if someone out there that has the Sears Router Crafter or the Trend clone could help me out? I have been searching for the optional drive accessory that goes for the lathe and was wondering if someone could give me the dimensions or help me to craft one of these myself since it seems nearly impossible to find. I need to know the overall length, I need to know what the maximum width of the large backing plate is, I need to know the diameter of the shaft, whether it is tapered or not (MT1,2, etc.) I also need to kow the measurements whre the bit steps off on the end as well. I appreciate any and all information.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I just picked one of these up, but I have no idea which part you are talking about. If you can point it out I will measure it up for you.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi clockmaker

You can find them on eBay now and then but you need to check it all the time , I have seen 2 in the last year on eBay..

I should note,,,I don't have one but you can make one easy with good hard block of wood and a center point from a standard lathe...
But you will need to buy a Number One or number Two bit (Rem.) ...(M1 OR M2 )


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0V3D29NZM108TZ36EQ60

http://www.abmtools.net/cutting-tools-6.html


===============





thevillageclockmaker said:


> I was wondering if someone out there that has the Sears Router Crafter or the Trend clone could help me out? I have been searching for the optional drive accessory that goes for the lathe and was wondering if someone could give me the dimensions or help me to craft one of these myself since it seems nearly impossible to find. I need to know the overall length, I need to know what the maximum width of the large backing plate is, I need to know the diameter of the shaft, whether it is tapered or not (MT1,2, etc.) I also need to kow the measurements whre the bit steps off on the end as well. I appreciate any and all information.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

thevillageclockmaker said:


> I was wondering if someone out there that has the Sears Router Crafter or the Trend clone could help me out? I have been searching for the optional drive accessory that goes for the lathe and was wondering if someone could give me the dimensions or help me to craft one of these myself since it seems nearly impossible to find. I need to know the overall length, I need to know what the maximum width of the large backing plate is, I need to know the diameter of the shaft, whether it is tapered or not (MT1,2, etc.) I also need to kow the measurements whre the bit steps off on the end as well. I appreciate any and all information.


If you can give me the part number I'll ask Trend. I emailed them this morning to see what spares they still held.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

I emailed Trend this morning, albeit with some difficulty, as the address on their website bounces, so had to phone them for a usable email address before I could successfully send the enquiry. The enquiry was a general one as to what spares they held and also mentioned the pulleys.
I went out for an hour and got back to a message saying they were posting me some pulleys FOC !

They've evidently got some spares but which other ones I don't know yet. Let me know the part numbers and I'll check.

Cheers

Peter


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

I just spoke with Trend USA in KY. They are totally out of any parts. I'm looking for one of two of the small plastic pulleys.


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## thevillageclockmaker (Aug 31, 2009)

"I just picked one of these up, but I have no idea which part you are talking about. If you can point it out I will measure it up for you."

Deb,

I included what the rl/dc or router lathe drive center looks like. It would be the piece on the far right in your picture that is sort of a silvery grey color. It is a tapered piece that holds the wood in place, it has little teeth or spurs on the end to hold the wood in place. I included a pic direct from the user manual what it looks like. I need measurements of the overall length and diameter of the main shaft; including the area at the end that steps off slightly smaller, I would need the diameter of the small backing plate that the shaft runs through, and also the steps off in that plate if possible. Lastly, if the very end of your rl/dc comes apart where the little teeth are located (officially called drive center insert); I would appreciate those measurements as well. I'm certain I can craft this piece but I need critical measurements since I'm trying to retrofit it. Thanks so much.


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## thevillageclockmaker (Aug 31, 2009)

"If you can give me the part number I'll ask Trend. I emailed them this morning to see what spares they still held."


Peter,

I very much appreciate your interest in my project going on here. I referenced the part number(s) and they are per the manual: RL/DC part number: 64- Drive Centre Holder Ref. (WP-RLDC/01); 65-Drive Centre Insert Ref. (WP-RLDC/02), 66- External Ring 1" Ref. (WP-RLDC/03), 67- Instruction Leaflet RL/DC Ref. (INST/RL/DC).


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

The manual below is better than the Sears manual it may help others with the Sears one.. 

But I will say it one more time,you don't need the ,drive center holder, just make one out of hardwood,,,it just locks in the pocket holder  I will say I don't have one on hand because I use the House.Of.TOOLS router crafter one and they did fix that error with a slip in center point, with Allen set screw holding it in place,, in the head index stock..if you want to see that just ask and I will post a picture of it.. 

WP-RLDC/03
Drive Centre Holder. 
WP-RLDC/01. 
65. 1. Drive Centre Insert. WP-RLDC/02. 
66. 1. External Ring 1" ID. WP-RLDC/03. 
67. 1. Instruction Leaflet RL/DC 

===========


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Travis, unfortunately mine did not come with one of those adapters. The fellow I bought it from had rigged up one of his own made out of....wood. He gave me the piece and some quick instruction on how to make a better one. But having never used one of these before it might be a while before I get to that. 
All it is is a wooden block that fits inside the cone and extends out. His had one screw in the centre but he suggested making it a bit longer and putting 6-8 screws in around the center to create "teeth". At the time I really had no idea what he was talking about. It's all clear now.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Deb

That's the block,but it needs a block of hardwood on both ends,one to lock it inside of the hub and one to get it out from the hub,,about 6" to 8" on that one,,it gives the router some room to get to the end of the project , the more you use it you will see why you need the block,with a longer hex head lag bolt 

========


CanuckGal said:


> Travis, unfortunately mine did not come with one of those adapters. The fellow I bought it from had rigged up one of his own made out of....wood. He gave me the piece and some quick instruction on how to make a better one. But having never used one of these before it might be a while before I get to that.
> All it is is a wooden block that fits inside the cone and extends out. His had one screw in the centre but he suggested making it a bit longer and putting 6-8 screws in around the center to create "teeth". At the time I really had no idea what he was talking about. It's all clear now.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I'll give it a try when I get to turning my first router lathe firewood..ROFLOL. The fellow told me to practice on some scrap wood because I would make lots of mistakes at first. Apparently he's been peeking into my shop..LOL.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

I know you have a block and I was out in the shop today and I said I will make one (see below) just for kicks 

They can be made easy,,the next time you pop in a 4 x 4 stock just make it a little bit longer then just cut off the ends to made the ext. ,that's all the block is for to get the stock out and away from the holder so the router can get to the end of the project ..so you can use all of the stock or put a nice taper end on the project ...

The block will work on both brands Craftsman and the Wood-Can-Do router lathes...( H.O.TOOLS) 

==========
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CanuckGal said:


> Travis, unfortunately mine did not come with one of those adapters. The fellow I bought it from had rigged up one of his own made out of....wood. He gave me the piece and some quick instruction on how to make a better one. But having never used one of these before it might be a while before I get to that.
> All it is is a wooden block that fits inside the cone and extends out. His had one screw in the centre but he suggested making it a bit longer and putting 6-8 screws in around the center to create "teeth". At the time I really had no idea what he was talking about. It's all clear now.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

BJ I knew you'd figure a better way! So is the long screw just screwed into your work piece? Would it matter if you did right hand or left hand turning? Would the screw try to come out if you were routing against the threads? Is that a lock washer at the end of the screw? (hard to see in the picture.) 
I wonder if sandpaper on the end of the block would give a better "friction" drive? 
Sorry lots of questions but I can see the advantage to being able to rout the whole workpiece. I read the manual and the chapter from the book about the lathe this weekend (actually read the whole book, was slow at work). I think I might like to give this machine a try this week!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

" So is the long screw just screwed into your work piece?" Yep ,the lag screw will hold..

" Would it matter if you did right hand or left hand turning? " No once it's in it's hard to break it lose.

Lock washer,, It's ext.type that digs into the stock on both sides..of the washers..
Sand paper would also work I think, but I'm lazy so I just put the lock washer in place..

You could call the block a stand off I guess ,,
By the way the wood that's in the lathe is just some Aspen logs,, it's a good cheap way to use the lathe...


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CanuckGal said:


> BJ I knew you'd figure a better way! So is the long screw just screwed into your work piece? Would it matter if you did right hand or left hand turning? Would the screw try to come out if you were routing against the threads? Is that a lock washer at the end of the screw? (hard to see in the picture.)
> I wonder if sandpaper on the end of the block would give a better "friction" drive?
> Sorry lots of questions but I can see the advantage to being able to rout the whole workpiece. I read the manual and the chapter from the book about the lathe this weekend (actually read the whole book, was slow at work). I think I might like to give this machine a try this week!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

I know you didn't ask but you will in time use patterns ,,,
Here's some snapshots and some tips I have come up with for the router lathe that you may want to use for yours also..

It's no big deal to make one but making two is a challenge ,with the pattern board install it makes it easy to copy the pattern.

In the user manual they don't cover this part in much detail ..

The pattern holding board is screwed to the lathe,you will also see some copy blocks to fit on the dog on the base of the router mounting plate,, the tall on is for getting the router mount plate over the top of the index head, that's a big deal,the plate should not hit the bottom of the mounting plate, the quick make jig can do that job for you easy.
Just a note the pattern is screw to the inside of the pattern mounting board when you use it.

You can use the long screws on the mounting plate but they are not the best, little cheap  you will see it rides on the pattern mounting board,it's a quick to get the stock true and straight ,you can also use it put on a taper without resetting the lathe tail stock center point.

You will also see a block to hold up the router when you need to check the project without putting to much of a load on the cable..
The cable is spring loaded but in time it will damage spring without taking the load off...

I hope you and others can use the tips,if you need more info just ask 

========


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

You're right BJ they aren't very clear about this in the manual OR in the book. They talk about "exaggerating" the pattern but aren't very clear on how much to do this. If you use the provided patterens it's done for you, but if you had your own design...well I'm sure I would make lots of scrap before I got it right. 
I understand everything you are saying here BJ, but one problem I see is that when you use the blocks and raise the router that high it looks like you need a very long shank on the bit to reach the work piece??? I see your router is raised up but even so at the lowest point the collet will only be level with the base plate. That's still a fair distance to the piece. Or are the blocks only used in the "roughing" stages?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

The tall block is roughing it out,just to get it round,then you will need to replace the block with a shorter one,,,the bit is a standard bit,,it hangs down about 3" max...I know you want to use the new router you got but it may not work on the lathe and it should be 1/2" shank size because the bit it's so far out of the base of the router..

But I will say you can buy longer bits  but the stock is just under the base of the router about 1/2" off the base so most bits will do the job.

One of the down falls of the Craftsman router lathe, the router must be high and on the blue lathe you will see they fixed the error with a adjustment on the base plate that can be moved up or down on the back side of the plate..

The pattern can be just about anything you want,it nice to to use the patterns in the book but they are just a mill of the run patterns the norm, the pattern can be moved to take advantage of the profile you want to use they can also be dropped down or moved up to fit the wood stock you are using...

One more note about the pattern mounting board it will act like a chip stopper, they do make a mess on the floor and all over you..almost the same as a wood lathe and no real way to suck them up other than a stop board... it helps with the clean up..they do shoot out under the router and I mean shoot out all over the place..8 to 10 feet or more..

But take a look at the snapshot below,it will do small stock as well..with this setup..

=========





CanuckGal said:


> You're right BJ they aren't very clear about this in the manual OR in the book. They talk about "exaggerating" the pattern but aren't very clear on how much to do this. If you use the provided patterens it's done for you, but if you had your own design...well I'm sure I would make lots of scrap before I got it right.
> I understand everything you are saying here BJ, but one problem I see is that when you use the blocks and raise the router that high it looks like you need a very long shank on the bit to reach the work piece??? I see your router is raised up but even so at the lowest point the collet will only be level with the base plate. That's still a fair distance to the piece. Or are the blocks only used in the "roughing" stages?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

All interesting stuff Bob. I'm hoping mine will be here by the end of the week so that I can start playing with it. I'll be interested to see whether it comes with any patterns as trying to generate them otherwise looks difficult.

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

In the manual you will see see some patterns, that you can scan and blow out to full size.. ,with a scroll saw and some 1/8" MDF you have the patterns cover...

" looks difficult " no set rule how to make your own,a French curve will do most of the work ...the pattern in the post has 8 profiles that can be used on the stock by just moving the pattern around just a little bit...(right or left )or flip it over..

no set rules 

=======






istracpsboss said:


> All interesting stuff Bob. I'm hoping mine will be here by the end of the week so that I can start playing with it. I'll be interested to see whether it comes with any patterns as trying to generate them otherwise looks difficult.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

thevillageclockmaker said:


> "If you can give me the part number I'll ask Trend. I emailed them this morning to see what spares they still held."
> 
> 
> Peter,
> ...


Hi Travis

I confirmed with Trend this morning that they no longer have these particular parts. I found a very helpful guy there. I was looking for the drive handle, too, as the one I've bought is missing one, but they are out of those, too.
ISTR that Bob made a replacement one. It shouldn't be too difficult to make one.
They now have very limited spares for these.

Sorry I couldn't manage it for you.

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

It's not the handle,(very easy to make) it's the mounting base you want to make, the lock that comes with the lathe is a bit lame, a small wing nut next to the index hub..when you use it for fluting you want it to stay in place,you need to move the indexing head many times and that little wing nut with the small metal bracket is a pain in the a** not to say anything about, it will cut a slot in the plastic part of the head stock  and once that's gone you have a 4ft. long door stop...once you have one made take off the wing nut and bracket and put it in the box with other the parts for the lathe 


===========



istracpsboss said:


> Hi Travis
> 
> I confirmed with Trend this morning that they no longer have these particular parts. I found a very helpful guy there. I was looking for the drive handle, too, as the one I've bought is missing one, but they are out of those, too.
> ISTR that Bob made a replacement one. It shouldn't be too difficult to make one.
> ...


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

BJ can you post a pic of the replacement for the wing nut lock. I noticed on mine that there was some masking tape wrapped around it so I am assuming the previous owner already had issues with it. So how did you fix it?
Thanks
Deb


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

I made a handle and a holding bracket with the two wing nuts to lock the stock in place...now it's at dead stop where I need it to be. 

====



CanuckGal said:


> BJ can you post a pic of the replacement for the wing nut lock. I noticed on mine that there was some masking tape wrapped around it so I am assuming the previous owner already had issues with it. So how did you fix it?
> Thanks
> Deb


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

BJ from your picture it looks the same as mine. I am not seeing the fix. Or am I completely in the wrong place?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

see below

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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Right after I posted the picture I saw the other part. DOH! Sometimes the blonde creeps through the grey. 
Thanks BJ


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

hahahahahahaha I'm a "blonde " too or to say It was ,it's almost all gray now  but now I can park anywhere at the store  when it was blond I could get by with parking in the HC spots....

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CanuckGal said:


> Right after I posted the picture I saw the other part. DOH! Sometimes the blonde creeps through the grey.
> Thanks BJ


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> It's not the handle,(very easy to make) it's the mounting base you want to make, the lock that comes with the lathe is a bit lame, a small wing nut next to the index hub..when you use it for fluting you want it to stay in place,you need to move the indexing head many times and that little wing nut with the small metal bracket is a pain in the a** not to say anything about, it will cut a slot in the plastic part of the head stock  and once that's gone you have a 4ft. long door stop...once you have one made take off the wing nut and bracket and put it in the box with other the parts for the lathe
> 
> ...


OK. I'm picking up on this. I see you've done a wooden handle. That's going to be easier than making the metal one I was otherwise thinking of. Then the support for the handle shank is also the clamping point. Brilliant! I can kill two birds with one stone.

Incidentally, Deb's one and I think yours, too, appears to show a fixed tailstock in addition to the moving tailstock. Although mine is a Sears, too, it is identical to the Trend one which appears to rely solely on a fixed headstock and a moving tailstock. The House of Tools one is visibly more substantial and appears to have a fixed and a moveable tailstock. Do you think I should be making one for mine, too?

Thank you very much for all the guidance! It is making an understanding of the finer points so much easier.

As another incidental, considering how useful such a jig is and the general plethora of other sorts of jigs on the market, I wonder why these were discontinued?

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter 


" Incidentally, Deb's one and I think yours, too, appears to show a fixed tailstock in addition to the moving tailstock. Although mine is a Sears, too, it is identical to the Trend one which appears to rely solely on a fixed headstock and a moving tailstock. The House of Tools one is visibly more substantial and appears to have a fixed and a moveable tailstock. Do you think I should be making one for mine, too?"

????????
" Do you think I should be making one for mine, too?"
??????

Can you post a picture of yours ??

============





istracpsboss said:


> OK. I'm picking up on this. I see you've done a wooden handle. That's going to be easier than making the metal one I was otherwise thinking of. Then the support for the handle shank is also the clamping point. Brilliant! I can kill two birds with one stone.
> 
> Incidentally, Deb's one and I think yours, too, appears to show a fixed tailstock in addition to the moving tailstock. Although mine is a Sears, too, it is identical to the Trend one which appears to rely solely on a fixed headstock and a moving tailstock. The House of Tools one is visibly more substantial and appears to have a fixed and a moveable tailstock. Do you think I should be making one for mine, too?
> 
> ...


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> 
> " Incidentally, Deb's one and I think yours, too, appears to show a fixed tailstock in addition to the moving tailstock. Although mine is a Sears, too, it is identical to the Trend one which appears to rely solely on a fixed headstock and a moving tailstock. The House of Tools one is visibly more substantial and appears to have a fixed and a moveable tailstock. Do you think I should be making one for mine, too?"
> ...


Hi Bob

It's at home and I'm in the office, but the manual drawing at the top of Page3 and the parts list at the back seem to confirm just one fixed headstock and a single (sliding) tailstock. #6 and #47, which is just like my Sears one. It leaves the ways waving in the breeze if you are working on short pieces with the tailstock halfway up them.

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Got it 

=======



istracpsboss said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> It's at home and I'm in the office, but the manual drawing at the top of Page3 and the parts list at the back seem to confirm just one fixed headstock and a single (sliding) tailstock. #6 and #47, which is just like my Sears one. It leaves the ways waving in the breeze if you are working on short pieces with the tailstock halfway up them.
> 
> ...


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

So does your Sears one have a fixed tailstock at the outer end to support the ways in addition to this sliding one? I see the HoT one certainly does and it seems logical for stability.

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

" fixed tailstock " No,, the blue one is so much better,it has a live center,, the threaded rod can be much longer if needed, the Craftsman has a 8" threaded rod and you can make a longer one if needed but no real easy way to make it more stability...but it doesn't turn that fast..the tail stock on the Crafsman moves easy, to take on many sizes of stock..from 6" to 28" long the norm..

You will see a shop made setup block for the tail stock,,see other snapshots,,,it's needed to line the tail stock up on dead center with the head stock,,once you move the tail stock it's needed to line it back up..it's a real time saver if you had it set for a taper on the stock but the easy way is to use the pattern holding board for that job.. the pattern board is on dead center with the index head,,I should say it's 1/2" or so up from the dead center, that's so you can screw the pattern to it..on the pattern you will see the center line,that's needed to line up the pattern to the stock..no need to make one pattern,put a pattern on both sides and you don't need to use the complete pattern,you may only need to use part of it to get the job done .


=========



istracpsboss said:


> So does your Sears one have a fixed tailstock at the outer end to support the ways in addition to this sliding one? I see the HoT one certainly does and it seems logical for stability.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


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## Psamie (Oct 12, 2009)

If you are talking about the drive adapter I there is one on ebay now. Looks like the seller has a few of them.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Psamie

Looks like he knows what he has, WOW 106.oo dollars 

But I sure someone will buy them 



Sears Router Crafter Adapter

Sears Craftsman Drive Adapter for Router Crafter - eBay (item 110444316220 end time Oct-20-09 12:21:33 PDT)

=======



Psamie said:


> If you are talking about the drive adapter I there is one on ebay now. Looks like the seller has a few of them.


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## JasonEller (Nov 5, 2009)

If anyone still needs an adapeter I have one that I bought awhile ago. I never installed it and I don't have the crafter anymore. I can give you a better price than what is one ebay.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jason

How Much ????

====



JasonEller said:


> If anyone still needs an adapeter I have one that I bought awhile ago. I never installed it and I don't have the crafter anymore. I can give you a better price than what is one ebay.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Jason
> 
> How Much ????
> 
> ====


LOL ! Beat me to it! Still looking for a handle, although I'm thinking of going down the same road you did and making a new drive set up.

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

I'm just checking the price  I was thinking of you when I ask him.. 

The block way works for me  
by the way the guy on ebay sold 2 of them and has relisted them for 95.oo

" handle " the one that comes with it is junk tubing  the wooden type works great for both jobs, to turn it and to lock in in place..


========



istracpsboss said:


> LOL ! Beat me to it! Still looking for a handle, although I'm thinking of going down the same road you did and making a new drive set up.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> I'm just checking the price  I was thinking of you when I ask him..
> 
> ...


That was quick! Must be online the same time. I've just been downloading a stack of your excellent pics, to keep with the manual. One thing I wasn't sure of was that your big follower appears to go on the outside of the pattern mounting board and not actually run along anything? Is it just a trick of the light? I couldn't see what it was bearing on.

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Pattern board,,it's just mounted to some hole type angle iron, the top edge of the board is 3/4" higher than the center point of the lathe, the follower is just a block of wood,,it rides on the top edge of the pattern board, I did not care about the way the two screws did the job, I have 3 followers that just pop on the dog on the lathe base..

Flat base one to support the router and the others are for the pattern work..sharp point and rounded end ones..


==========


istracpsboss said:


> That was quick! Must be online the same time. I've just been downloading a stack of your excellent pics, to keep with the manual. One thing I wasn't sure of was that your big follower appears to go on the outside of the pattern mounting board and not actually run along anything? Is it just a trick of the light? I couldn't see what it was bearing on.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> Pattern board,,it's just mounted to some hole type angle iron, the top edge of the board is 3/4" higher than the center point of the lathe, the follower is just a block of wood,,it rides on the top edge of the pattern board, I did not care about the way the two screws did the job, I have 3 followers that just pop on the dog on the lathe base..
> 
> ...


Hi Bob

Got that. The 3/4" above centre line is useful to know. I just hadn't thought the big follower was following anything from the photo. It seemed to be just outside the pattern board.

Cheers

Peter


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## JasonEller (Nov 5, 2009)

Actually, I am the guy on ebay.  I came across a few of these a few weeks ago. Good find, I think we would all agree. I do have one that the end piece is missing that I could sell for around 60.00. For a complete set I could still cut a deal considering I wouldn't have to send ebay their cut. Anyone that wants a complete kit, I'll go 80, shipped. Still not real cheap, I know.


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## oldjointer (Oct 16, 2010)

Hello!
I found your forum while looking up this part. I have a Sears Craftsman DRIVE ADAPTER for Router Crafter 25256. Brand New in the box with instruction sheet. Are you still looking for this? I do not own a router crafter.

It includes: Drive Spindle, Drive Center and external ring.

Hope this is helpful!

Jason


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jason

That's great I'm sure you will sale it , if the price is right but I would suggest you list it also under the Tools for Sale on the forum, can hurt and it's free.. 

===



oldjointer said:


> Hello!
> I found your forum while looking up this part. I have a Sears Craftsman DRIVE ADAPTER for Router Crafter 25256. Brand New in the box with instruction sheet. Are you still looking for this? I do not own a router crafter.
> 
> It includes: Drive Spindle, Drive Center and external ring.
> ...


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## Rudyt1 (Nov 14, 2010)

oldjointer said:


> Hello!
> I found your forum while looking up this part. I have a Sears Craftsman DRIVE ADAPTER for Router Crafter 25256. Brand New in the box with instruction sheet. Are you still looking for this? I do not own a router crafter.
> 
> It includes: Drive Spindle, Drive Center and external ring.
> ...


Hello Jason. Not sure if you still have this. If you do, will is fit model 25250
Rudy


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## hilbilly (Dec 30, 2011)

*still have drive spindle?*



oldjointer said:


> Hello!
> I found your forum while looking up this part. I have a Sears Craftsman DRIVE ADAPTER for Router Crafter 25256. Brand New in the box with instruction sheet. Are you still looking for this? I do not own a router crafter.
> 
> It includes: Drive Spindle, Drive Center and external ring.
> ...


Do you still have this adapter?
Hilbilly


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## oldjointer (Oct 16, 2010)

*Drive Adapter for Router Crafter*



hilbilly said:


> Do you still have this adapter?
> Hilbilly


Yup! I never did anything else since the last post....been pretty busy. Part number appears to be 9 25256


Happy New Year!


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## hilbilly (Dec 30, 2011)

*RC adapter*



fiddlingsibling said:


> Yup! I never did anything else since the last post....been pretty busy. Part number appears to be 9 25256
> 
> 
> Happy New Year!


I am interested. What's your price?

Hillbilly


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Well, who has it? Rudy, or Jason? Seems we're working off 2 people here, unless someone forgot their User ID or PW.


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## oldjointer (Oct 16, 2010)

*Jason , here. I have it....*

I have it... my internet connection is very slow and each time I link on the forum it takes a while to get where i need to be...

I haven't done much research, but I believe a fair price is $25 plus shipping (prob. $6)

How's that? If all good, how do we get goin'??



:laugh::laugh:Or will trade for a 1924 Gibson Lloyd Loar f-5 mandolin......(flexible on year):lol:

or a nice old french violin bow....


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## hilbilly (Dec 30, 2011)

*router crafter accessory*



fiddlingsibling said:


> I have it... my internet connection is very slow and each time I link on the forum it takes a while to get where i need to be...
> 
> I haven't done much research, but I believe a fair price is $25 plus shipping (prob. $6)
> 
> ...


Darn, I just sold my mandolin. Seriously, I do have an old violin bow I occasionally try to use with my dulcimer but, I know little about it. I got it with a broken WW II era French violin that was beyond my skills to repair. $25 + shipping would be fine. Will you accept a check? My e mail is [email protected].
Thanks, 
Hillbilly


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## hilbilly (Dec 30, 2011)

*violin bow*



fiddlingsibling said:


> I have it... my internet connection is very slow and each time I link on the forum it takes a while to get where i need to be...
> 
> I haven't done much research, but I believe a fair price is $25 plus shipping (prob. $6)
> 
> ...


Jason,
I looked at my bow. It is marked W Germany.
Stan (Hillbilly)


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## hilbilly (Dec 30, 2011)

*repeat message to jason*



hilbilly said:


> Jason,
> I looked at my bow. It is marked W Germany.
> Stan (Hillbilly)


Jason,
Yesterday I sent a note re: the router crafter adapter where I asked if you would accept a check. I guess it did not go through. I mentioned that I had a violin bow as well. I use it on my dulcimer at times with mixed results. My e mail is [email protected].

Thanks, Stan (Hillbilly)


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## Rudyt1 (Nov 14, 2010)

*No luck for me*



AxlMyk said:


> Well, who has it? Rudy, or Jason? Seems we're working off 2 people here, unless someone forgot their User ID or PW.


I had asked the seller of this item if he still had it quite a while ago, but I never got a reply. I am now thinking of making one; however, I'll keep looking as well.
Rudy


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## dicey (Dec 27, 2011)

Ok, I'm not even use to my router yet and now ya'll just made me want to get a lathe too lol. I think thats another tool for my list, lets see i got table saw, palm nailer, and now a lathe any others i'm missing for my list LOL.

"Get your toys out and play"
Dawn


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## hilbilly (Dec 30, 2011)

*router crafter*



dicey said:


> Ok, I'm not even use to my router yet and now ya'll just made me want to get a lathe too lol. I think thats another tool for my list, lets see i got table saw, palm nailer, and now a lathe any others i'm missing for my list LOL.
> 
> "Get your toys out and play"
> Dawn


There are several on e bay as we speak with current bidding as low as $45.
Good luck, Stan (hillbilly):jester:


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## oldjointer (Oct 16, 2010)

*Drive adapter for Router Crafter...sold...*

I have been in touch with a member and am sending out the router crafter tomorrow...but the forum really works! all praise the mighty internet!:dance3::dance3::dance3:


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## hilbilly (Dec 30, 2011)

*Adapter aquired at last*

Hi all, 

Thanks to Fiddlingsibling, after a very long search, I now have the adapter for my Sears router crafter. 

He is right. The forum works!

Wood will soon fly!

Thanks Jason, Stan (Hilbilly):jester:


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## MACswag (Feb 28, 2012)

Hello router buddy,this was a long time ago now,but do you still have that little part,
MAC.


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## voiddog (Jul 20, 2014)

that is so helpful i've been searching high and low for the part or a way to make it work and this is the first option i've found short of having a machine shop craft me one thanks again ill give it a try but i would still like ti fine the actual part if anyone comes across one they would like to part with my email is [email protected]


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## Iceman42 (Nov 1, 2014)

nice adaptation


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