# What is an authentic Record 52 vise worth?



## Finleyville (Feb 28, 2010)

Anyway...


I have a chance to purchase a _never used_, English made Record 52 vise. Funny thing is that I do not have room for a true work bench -- yet. I have heard that the original Record vises are some of the best out there and will outlast my lifetime. The firm asking price seems high to me, but I do not know what is fair for something like this. 

Anyone want to venture an educated estimate of what I should be paying? Thanks for all of your help.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Michael, do you just want a good vise or a collectors item?

That would influence my decision...


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Well what is the firm asking price. If its not one of the newer models its worth having. Is it a 52 or 52e?


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Lee Valley has a vise of similar size and quality for $169. plus shipping. I don't expect the Record vise will have much collector value, and while it may be better than the ones made now, I'm not sure how much better. I have a Record 52E on my bench that I bought when I heard Record was about to go out of business. I saved it for 10 years or so, waiting for a bench to put it on. I do like it, but I wouldn't spend a lot of extra money for the Record brand. I just don't think most of us really tax a bench vise enough for durability to be an issue anyway.


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## Finleyville (Feb 28, 2010)

Al B Thayer said:


> Well what is the firm asking price. If its not one of the newer models its worth having. Is it a 52 or 52e?


Well, the asking price is a little north of that Lee Valley mentioned but sized like their smallest one. Jaw width 7" and opens around 8". How can you tell the difference between the 52 and the 52e? Stamped on the front are only, "Made in England", "Record", and "52". 










I think it is the 52ED model. The one I can buy looks very much like another one on eBay right now.


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Finleyville said:


> Well, the asking price is a little north of that Lee Valley mentioned but sized like their smallest one. Jaw width 7" and opens around 8". How can you tell the difference between the 52 and the 52e? Stamped on the front are only, "Made in England", "Record", and "52".
> 
> 
> 
> ...


My 52E is equal to the largest of Lee Valley's vises. I have 3 vises on my bench, including a Veritas Twin Screw. The Record vise is the one I use the most because of the quick release feature. If it were me, I would go for the bigger vise, even if it's not a Record brand. Your mileage may vary.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I went through a similar go around when buying a router plane. The ones that were complete and worth buying were close to or even exceeded the price of a new veritas router plane. I ended up buying the Veritas. I don't buy tools to collect, I buy to use, and companies like Lee Valley/Veritas and Lie-Nielsen build tools that the quality is just as high if not (arguably) higher than their antique counter-parts.

If it were me looking at the vise, and the one at Lee Valley is cheaper, I would buy the Lee Valley one. In my opinion, you will not be sacrificing quality to buy the new vise.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Sounds like the E and ED are newer than the 52. The 52 would surely be made with better steel and probably have a longer life. But. The very best Record vise for the woodworker would be a pre Irwin 52 1/2. bigger jaw and longer opening.

I would not put a dime on any of the Irwin models. Just not made with the same quality and the steel will not be as good. Just the nature of being made in this present time. 

I'm holding out for a 52 1/2 mint.

Al


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Al B Thayer said:


> Sounds like the E and ED are newer than the 52. The 52 would surely be made with better steel and probably have a longer life. But. The very best Record vise for the woodworker would be a pre Irwin 52 1/2. bigger jaw and longer opening.
> 
> I would not put a dime on any of the Irwin models. Just not made with the same quality and the steel will not be as good. Just the nature of being made in this present time.
> 
> ...


Uh, we're talking about a woodworking vise here. How are you planning to abuse it so that "better steel" comes into play? I'm not talking about a comparison to the cheapest junk from Taiwan, but some of the good vises still made in Europe and sold by such reputable folks as Lee Valley. I mean, how good does the steel really need to be? 

Yes, by all means, he should go for a larger vise than the one he found. 

I have a Record 52 1/2 E or ED, don't remember which, made in England. It's mounted under my bench and is in like new condition. I like it a lot, but I'm not emotionally attached to it. Make me an UNreasonable offer, and I'll take it down, ship it to you, buy a replacement from Lee Valley, and buy another router with the difference.


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## Finleyville (Feb 28, 2010)

Thanks for all the replies everyone. While I was hemming and hawing over what I should do I happened across some leftover birthday/Christmas money I never spent. I saw that as a sign and picked it up. I figured it will work as a secondary vice if I find a larger one down the road. Since the quality of the vise was never a question, only the asking price, I do not feel too badly about overspending on a well constructed piece of hardware. 

Thanks again everyone.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

DonkeyHody said:


> Uh, we're talking about a woodworking vise here. How are you planning to abuse it so that "better steel" comes into play? I'm not talking about a comparison to the cheapest junk from Taiwan, but some of the good vises still made in Europe and sold by such reputable folks as Lee Valley. I mean, how good does the steel really need to be?
> 
> Yes, by all means, he should go for a larger vise than the one he found.
> 
> I have a Record 52 1/2 E or ED, don't remember which, made in England. It's mounted under my bench and is in like new condition. I like it a lot, but I'm not emotionally attached to it. Make me an UNreasonable offer, and I'll take it down, ship it to you, buy a replacement from Lee Valley, and buy another router with the difference.


Sliding it in and out to answer your question.

I put the best Crapsman woodworking vise on my now priceless woodworkers bench. 30 years of use and in the last 18 years of use it has been worn and sticks. It's made with lesser quality cast steel and cast iron and I am going to replace it. Just haven't put it high on my to do list.

To bad I didn't know about the pitfalls of using this vise 30 years ago. I'd bet money Irwin Record in no way makes the same Record vise today. 

But hey, post some pictures of it.

Al


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## Finleyville (Feb 28, 2010)

Here is what I ended up buying...


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## Finleyville (Feb 28, 2010)

BTW...


I do not have a work bench yet that I can mount this. In fact, because of space constraints, I probably will not use this for a number of years. So it does not rust I would like to perhaps coat it in a thin layer of oil, put it in an oil moist paper bag, then place it inside a large ziplock. 

What type of oil should I use to preserve this hunk of metal?

Am I going overboard? (I usually do.)


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Finleyville said:


> BTW...
> 
> 
> I do not have a work bench yet that I can mount this. In fact, because of space constraints, I probably will not use this for a number of years. So it does not rust I would like to perhaps coat it in a thin layer of oil, put it in an oil moist paper bag, then place it inside a large ziplock.
> ...


Cosmoline if you can find it. No you are not going overboard. My vise rusted in storage and I spent a good bit of time with steel wool cleaning it up. Ended up painting the end of the screw shaft and the turn-handle.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Finleyville said:


> BTW...
> 
> 
> I do not have a work bench yet that I can mount this. In fact, because of space constraints, I probably will not use this for a number of years. So it does not rust I would like to perhaps coat it in a thin layer of oil, put it in an oil moist paper bag, then place it inside a large ziplock.
> ...


Great buy. I would use nothing but WD40 to protect the vice. I live in the sub tropics and I have zero rust on my tools and saws. Its great on cast products and steel too. 

I'm currently working out a deal on a No 52 1/2. Its older than dirt.

Al


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Finleyville said:


> BTW...
> 
> I do not have a work bench yet that I can mount this. In fact, because of space constraints, I probably will not use this for a number of years. So it does not rust I would like to perhaps coat it in a thin layer of oil, put it in an oil moist paper bag, then place it inside a large ziplock.
> 
> ...


skip the oil and go w/ a film of grease...

*a word or two about WD...*

WD-40 isn't actually a true lubricant. WD stands for "water displacing" and its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver.
The lubricant-like properties of WD-40 come not from the substance itself, but from dissolving components. And the effect doesn't last.
WD-40 can be a good substance to start with — it can help clean up rust or other grime. But depending on what you're working with, you should probably follow up WD-40 with use of a true lubricant such as one based on silicone, grease, Teflon, or graphite.

WD-40 is *hygroscopic* and will attract moisture...
Because WD-40 isn't a lubricant, it really will not work well on drive chains of any type. 
*
hy•gro•scop•ic* (hīˌgrə-skŏpˈĭk)
adj. Readily absorbing moisture, as from the atmosphere.

WD-40 doesn't have enough lubrication affect to be useful on any type of gearing. 
Never use WD-40 on door hinges or anything you want to keep clean. It attracts dirt and dust. It will turn your hinge pins black ..
WD-40 can wash dirt into a bike chain, ruining the chain and taking out the gears along with it. 
dad ruined his kid's $800 clarinet by using WD-40 on "the squeaky part" — and no, that isn't the entire clarinet 
WD-40, which contains petroleum distillates (paint thinner) that can melt and seize plastic...

keep it away from electrical. Fire hazard and ruins plastic components. Electrically conductive
Keep it out your bearings.. it isn't a lubricant. Will attract crud and moisture. Will break down what lubricant that is in the bearing...

Paintball guns. WD-40 can melt the seals in the guns.
Locks. The spray can prematurely wear down the internal mechanisms, especially in the pin tumbler locks, in door locks and padlocks. Go for graphite powder.
iPods and iPads. WD-40 won't repair the Home button on these devices. In fact, the spray can cause the plastic to break down on the cover, and if some gets inside the electronics, it can damage plastic parts inside.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Well, aren't _you_ the Little Ray of Sunshine!
You do realize, Stick, that fully half of N. America's locks, bikes, electrical components, and clarinets have just received a death sentence... 
Oh, and power tools also.
(I've had my suspicions; you're not the first person that's warned me off about WD 40.)


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Agreed, Stick.

For small lubricating jobs I use sewing machine oil.....


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Well, aren't _you_ *the Little Ray of Sunshine*!
> You do realize, Stick, that fully half of N. America's locks, bikes, electrical components, and clarinets have just received a death sentence...
> Oh, and power tools also.
> (I've had my suspicions; you're not the first person that's warned me off about WD 40.)


das me...
and hornets nest kicker too....


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

was following this vise over at the 'other' forum. Thought it was a good deal and worth the hour and a half drive. You got a good one there!!!


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## Finleyville (Feb 28, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> was following this vise over at the 'other' forum. Thought it was a good deal and worth the hour and a half drive. You got a good one there!!!


Thanks.

I picked up some Boeshield T-9 









and a small tube of Corrosion Block grease from West Marine










I figured I would spray the jaws and body with the T-9 and do my best to brush the grease onto the worm gear assembly. Wrap it all up in a paper bag then a ziplock of some sort. Hopefully this protection method will work for some years until I can move into a place that has room for a proper workshop with bench.


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## wwjdsea (Sep 14, 2017)

i have a 52 1/2 ED MADE IN ENGLAND I AM NOT GOING TO USE IT .CONTACT Scott at (email edited out by moderator) for info and pictures . i am looking for a fair price for it


Scott the forum admin asks that we not post our email addresses publicly for personal security reasons. We have a Private Messaging system for members to use to contact you with.
Cherryville Chuck.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I always figure something is worth whatever the buyer is willing to pay. 

You might want to try a trade. Awhile back I traded a flute, with case, that I got for a very, very, low price. The flute was worth probably $100+. I made an even trade for a high class scrollsaw, easily worth at least close to $200, if not more. We were both very happy.


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