# Starter Set Up



## Jerry Skrocki (Sep 17, 2009)

I'm setting up a matting and framing shop in my basement and need a table router. I have no idea what to look for or where to start. I will be making custom picture frames and need to cut the rabbet in the back of the frame as well as shape the frame itself. Any guidance you can give would be appreciated.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jerry

Pickup the bit below it will do it all in one pass 

Just about any router table will do the job, you need to make sure the router can take on 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits,with a VS control on the router to slow down the bit speed..:

MLCS picture frame router bits

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Jerry Skrocki said:


> I'm setting up a matting and framing shop in my basement and need a table router. I have no idea what to look for or where to start. I will be making custom picture frames and need to cut the rabbet in the back of the frame as well as shape the frame itself. Any guidance you can give would be appreciated.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Jerry and welcome to the forum. Looks like BJ has you covered with good advice as usual


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings Jerry and welcome to the router forum.


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Welcome,
I would only add, make your own table. You can learn a lot from doing that. Do a Google search, there are hundreds list. Pick a simple one to start, when improve on it after you have more experience.
Harry TX


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Jerry Skrocki said:


> I'm setting up a matting and framing shop in my basement and need a table router. I have no idea what to look for or where to start. I will be making custom picture frames and need to cut the rabbet in the back of the frame as well as shape the frame itself. Any guidance you can give would be appreciated.


Hi Jerry:

Oh boy does this sound like fun. I'm thinking you want to do the high-end real precision stuff? You wouldn't be talking about routers if you weren't.

If I were setting this up, this is the start of your shopping list:

1. Hitachi M12V router - there are still some new ones around but used is just as good. You'll have to heavily modify the router for table use. I chose the M12V because it is versatile and a real work horse. You can run it for hours without it complaining. The Makita 3612 is similar but I'm not familiar with the modifications necessary to convert to heavy table use. There is a 3HP Triton that's also supposed to be good for heavy table use but I'm not familiar with it at all.

2. LeeValley setup block set. This will be one of your principal measuring systems so might as well go for the best to start. Use a ruler stop on a steel scale and a digital micrometer to supplement the setup blocks.

3. OakPark baseplate - the 11" one without the dust collector. You want the 1 1/2" centre hole to start and add the 3" hole one later. Get a few of the brass inserts as well to "fill up" the hole with smaller bits.

4. build your first table to experiment with. Once you've figured out how everything works together you'll probably want to modify your table. I would suggest build a new one and "reserve" the old one for special projects. I like my 4' long table but I think it too long for your project, perhaps 36", a gap and an infeed and outfeed tables beyond that. I don't know if there would be an advantage to running 16' of stock through as compared to four pieces 4' long. You'll need good outfeed and infeed support for 16' stock. It gets pretty fragile.
5. I wouldn't recommend steel fences but perhaps wood or UHMW plastic with lots of stiffening. Make them as precise as you can. Make the fences high enough for substantial feather boards both on the fence and the table.

This is a start. Once you get into it you'll see that the 10,000 hour apprenticeship rule applies. I've known guys that make their own moldings and it is a craft and discipline unto itself.

You will also want to create a relationship with a knowledgeable bit manufacturer. The big companies won't be interested because they won't be able to answer your questions. I might suggest Tom Walz at Carbide Processors. Here's the rub: initially, you're going to want to do some experimentation, not a problem, Woodline USA is the cheapest bit vendor I know of. Experiment with impunity. However, when you begin doing "real" production, you'll find that you'll want to reproduce the same look from piece to piece. I've studied a logo for hours trying to figure out what was wrong with it. You'll find you'll do the same thing with your moldings. Part of the problem will be router bits are not the same. They are similar, but not identical. You'll want a very consistent supplier and one that you can talk to and address your concerns. Tom may be that guy.

This is a start. Take and post large numbers of photos and post them here so we can all study your progress. You have some excellent resources here, don't be afraid to call on them even if just for moral support.


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