# how to do this?



## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

Hi,

Someone has ask me how to make pieces like the one shown in the attachment as a profile. It would be done on 1/2" thick wood, the pieces are 4 1/2" tall and the length will vary. The six "notches" have a side that perpdicular and a slope to get the 6 of them. This "siding" for a doll house sort of deal. The sharp edges will be lightly sanded so a little rounding is not bad at the tips but the gullets should be crisp and clean.

At first I thought this would be easy but then....... anyone with a good idea as I think I will get to make some of these as this person doesn't have a router YET.

Ed


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## Dewy (Sep 15, 2004)

I know how I would like to do that job but it may prove difficult without being able to hold the router at an angle.
If I had one, I would use a milling machine with the head tilted to produce the required angle and use a dovetail cutter to produce the section.
You would make one cut accros then move the table the distance between the tips then cut again and continue until the whole length is finished.
Easy with the right machine but difficult without.


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## jeff12002 (Mar 1, 2005)

you may be able to do this if you made a router base plate that varied in thickness (like a wedge). Use a Dovetail bit, and a straight guide to keep your cut straight.


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## jeff12002 (Mar 1, 2005)

I hope I'm not breaking any rules by recommending a tool other than a router, but it seems that the easiest way might me to use a molding cutter mounted in a radial arm saw with the blade rotated to matchthe angled cut on your teeth. Rip a series of well placed cuts, and then rip the strips off a wider board.


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

Good I see some people have posted some ideas for me! I have determined the angle to be about 12 deg. I checked my router bits and I don't have a 12 deg dovetail..... I don't even know if they make that angle.

Dewy you sure are right about having a machine that can tilt.... that and a wide (.75") dovetail with the right angle would make short work of this. To bad I don't have one.

Jeff12002 I will have to look at that.... The width of the angle cut would be in the range of 3/4" so you would have to make two passes and adjust depth so getting things to match up might be real trick. But it might be the only game in town.

I don't use a router for everything so I have no problem with using a saw.... but the darn angle is not right...... if it were 90 deg. this would be a piece of cake. Maybe going back with a router to finish the cut and get the angle would work?????

Anyway I did a sketch of the router idea to show the problem....

Thanks guys!

I'm still open to ideas.....

Ed


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Ed, on one show Rick had to make an angle cut and created a jig using a pair of wedges and 1/4" plywood, sort of a ramp? Nice wide base for the router to move on, the angle decided by the wedges. That particular jig had a small slot for use with a guide bushing. It strikes me you could attach the ramp to your router table with double sided carpet tape and just pass your wood over it. The ramp would need to be long enough for some sort of indexing feature, a clamped on fence perhaps?


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## Woodnut65 (Oct 11, 2004)

Hi: My opinion for what it's worth is to use a table saw with a moulding head.
Using a block between the fence and the material would make it possible to adjust the sucessive cuts. The block would have to be fastened temporarily to the fence, for safty reasons. Other wise you could re-adjust the fence for each cut.

Hope this helps.. Woodnut65


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Ed,

Looks like an excellent project for the bandsaw.


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## pmspirito (Sep 19, 2004)

Hey Dewy, you still want that Bridgeport don't you? Saw dust in your lungs and cutting oil in your blood? Check Harbor Freight. Their combo machines are actually of pretty good quality for the money with adjustible gibs and ways, etc. Not a BP but.........


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## jeff12002 (Mar 1, 2005)

aniceone2hold said:


> Ed, on one show Rick had to make an angle cut and created a jig using a pair of wedges and 1/4" plywood, sort of a ramp? Nice wide base for the router to move on, the angle decided by the wedges. That particular jig had a small slot for use with a guide bushing. It strikes me you could attach the ramp to your router table with double sided carpet tape and just pass your wood over it. The ramp would need to be long enough for some sort of indexing feature, a clamped on fence perhaps?


This really is an excellent idea! You could put a fence on the bottom of the wedge for use as an edge guide. 1st pass with a 1/2" wide spacer block between the fence and the router. 2nd pass with the spacer block removed. If it absolutely/positively needs to be perfect, you could even add a couple of wedges under the jig after the second pass to make up the additional 2 deg left from a standard 14 deg bit for the 3d pass.


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

aniceone2hold said:


> Ed, on one show Rick had to make an angle cut and created a jig using a pair of wedges and 1/4" plywood, sort of a ramp? Nice wide base for the router to move on, the angle decided by the wedges. That particular jig had a small slot for use with a guide bushing. It strikes me you could attach the ramp to your router table with double sided carpet tape and just pass your wood over it. The ramp would need to be long enough for some sort of indexing feature, a clamped on fence perhaps?


 Mike,

This is sort of the jeff2002 idea but on a table? I'm trying to picture the wedges and all but I may have missed what you are really saying... I don't recall the show you are talking about or maybe I never saw it????

Ed


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Ed, flip your illustration so the bit is table mounted. Insert a piece of 1/4" plywood between your wedges and wood to create an angled "ramp". Plunge your bit up through the plywood. This should in effect give you a zero clearance table at the proper angle for your cuts. Now all you need is a fence to guide your wood across the bit.


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

I do remember making immitation louvre doors at one stage which meant securing the panel (obviously greater in size than the pr0posed project) I simply made a ramp for my router and inserted evenly spaced packing pieces removing one at a time until the door was complete. As I said a much larger project
Tom


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## jeff12002 (Mar 1, 2005)

I don't know if this will work, as I'm a little slow on the uptake sometimes. I'm trying to attach a scetch of the jig I have in mind (which has changed from the original idea of the tapered base plate) The spacer block shown in the jig gets removed for the second pass with the router/dovetail bit. This eliminated the need to adjust the depth of cut when you make the second pass. I can e-mail it if the attachment didn't make it in this post.
Jeff


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

template tom said:


> I do remember making immitation louvre doors at one stage which meant securing the panel (obviously greater in size than the pr0posed project) I simply made a ramp for my router and inserted evenly spaced packing pieces removing one at a time until the door was complete. As I said a much larger project
> Tom


 I had never thought about a immitation louvre door! I have a place where that would be ideal. I wanted the look but not the actual effect and this would be a fun project as well. And after I get this little project figured out I'll have an idea how to do the door.

Ed


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

aniceone2hold said:


> Ed, flip your illustration so the bit is table mounted. Insert a piece of 1/4" plywood between your wedges and wood to create an angled "ramp". Plunge your bit up through the plywood. This should in effect give you a zero clearance table at the proper angle for your cuts. Now all you need is a fence to guide your wood across the bit.


 OK got ya.

Ed


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

jeff12002 said:


> I don't know if this will work, as I'm a little slow on the uptake sometimes. I'm trying to attach a scetch of the jig I have in mind (which has changed from the original idea of the tapered base plate) The spacer block shown in the jig gets removed for the second pass with the router/dovetail bit. This eliminated the need to adjust the depth of cut when you make the second pass. I can e-mail it if the attachment didn't make it in this post.
> Jeff


 First take a look at:
www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=526
I did a how to on attaching images.

Second I got your email, thanks!

Now just for fun would you like to add the image or do you want me to?

Ed


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## jeff12002 (Mar 1, 2005)

You can, I'll catch the how to later. I've got a couple of things that are going to need my attention pretty quickly.


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

The missing attachment


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