# What Router Bit for Table Edging?



## Clem Wixted (Jun 9, 2007)

My first post on this forum.

I would like to use the plastic edge trim that came off a floding table that got wet and the flake board is disintergrating.

What bit do I use to cut the thin groove in the new table top edge of the 3/4 plywood so I can tap the edge in? I don't know the real name of the plastic edging but it is 3/4 wide and is slightly curved on the face. The back has a thin grooved barbed protruding about 1/4 inch. This barbed protrusion goes into the groove in the table edge.

Any special things I should know before I do this?

Thanks,

Clem


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Clem,

I see you made it to the router forum. I believe I must have mis-read your question yesterday and you must have thought my reply was out in left field somewhere. My meds do that to me sometimes   I thought you were asking how to trim the plastic to the table top so my reply sure made no sense   

You are going to need some form of a slot cutting bit with a bearing. We have a router glossary here in the forum and I will see if I can find the answer for you and return with a better reply if someone does not beat me to it and hopefully they will.

Welcome to the Router forum and don't be shy.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Clem,

I think this is the bit you are looking for

http://www.hartvilletool.com/category/776


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Clem,

*W e l c o m e . . A b o a r d !!​*

Is the barb end square or pointed?

How thick is the barb that goes into the slot? (Slot width?)


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Good that you have some 3/4 inch to use. It's tough to find that thickness. As Bob says the bearing mounted slot cutter is what you need I expect that the thickness of the lug is 1/8 to 3/16 thick. 
Corey

P.S. welcome to the router forums.


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## Clem Wixted (Jun 9, 2007)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Clem,
> 
> *W e l c o m e . . A b o a r d !!​*
> 
> ...


Joe,

The barb is pointed and the body is 1/16" and the barbs are about 3/32" but are a little flattened from being in the slot of the previous table. 

It also looks like there was a brad driven through the bottom of the table and through the barb to keep it in place.

Clem


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## Clem Wixted (Jun 9, 2007)

Thanks Bob,

I'll see if there is a local source for one of these, otherwise I'll order one online.

Thanks for the info and I'm sorry I didn't explain myself better in my PM to you 

Clem



I think this is the bit you are looking for


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Clem
I think you are talking about this type of plastic T-edging molding, the norm is a 1/16 slot (5/64") see link below.
It comes in many types but this is the norm. ▼

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=1181&TabSelect=Details

Use one of the SMALL battery saws with a 1/16" saw BLADE set to 1/4" to 5/16" deep.

They also make it with little arrows sticking out the back side of the molding but that takes a bigger saw blade to do that type 1/8" the morm.
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Clem Wixted said:


> My first post on this forum.
> 
> I would like to use the plastic edge trim that came off a floding table that got wet and the flake board is disintergrating.
> 
> ...


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Clem Wixted said:


> Joe,
> 
> The barb is pointed and the body is 1/16" and the barbs are about 3/32" but are a little flattened from being in the slot of the previous table.
> 
> ...



That's a small slot... it may take a little experimentation... slot cutter... or saw.

good luck...


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## Clem Wixted (Jun 9, 2007)

Bobj3 and Joe,

I think I will try the saw slit on some scrap to see if that will work.

Clem


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Damn Bob, been looking for that stuff for months! Thanks bud!

Corey


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Might be a job for a Dremel, but don't know how you would guide it straight.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

That's when the Dremel table comes into play , it can be a pain to cut a straight line with it but once it's mounted in the table it's easy job, I use it all the time to cut thin plastic parts true...or to say straight 
It's great when you want to just remove a 1/16" or 1/8" and keep it true.
Plus you get small saw blades that work great also and use small router bits in it also.

see snapshot below , just one more way to spend your money, hahahaha but this is a good one. 

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-231A-S...94-7750249?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1181524722&sr=8-1

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Bob N said:


> Might be a job for a Dremel, but don't know how you would guide it straight.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Clem, to my mind the simplest way to make the groove is to use a straight cutter of the correct size, probably 1/8" on the router table using a tall fence which is a very useful addition to every-ones workshop but don't attempt it in one pass, two or even three with such a small dia. bit. In the photo the material is 1 3/8" with a 5/32" groove. An 1/8" cutter is much cheaper than a slot cutter. Normally in a correct size groove there is no need for glue or pins.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the Router Forums Clem and a belated Happy Birthday to you.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

You may want to check out the SET of slot cutters below and it's real hard to break one unlike the standard 1/8" straight router bit... 

Plus you can just move the stock flat on the top of the router table, no need to hold in up in the Ver. and you don't need to used a tall fence.

I use them all the time to split boxes in to two parts.. top and bottom, quick and easy and safe. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/1PC-1-2-SH-Slot...2858375QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem


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harrysin said:


> Clem, to my mind the simplest way to make the groove is to use a straight cutter of the correct size, probably 1/8" on the router table using a tall fence which is a very useful addition to every-ones workshop but don't attempt it in one pass, two or even three with such a small dia. bit. In the photo the material is 1 3/8" with a 5/32" groove. An 1/8" cutter is much cheaper than a slot cutter. Normally in a correct size groove there is no need for glue or pins.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

There lies the difference between our two countries, the cheapest set containing only four cutters is listed at $AUS79.00. If I could get a set at you're kind of prices I like you Bob wouldn't consider any other way. It's a bit like with Niki in Poland, tools are so expensive that he cleverly improvises using what he has to hand.


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## Woodnut65 (Oct 11, 2004)

Hi, Clem: The moulding you are talking about is known as a "T" moulding in the trade.
You will need a slot cutter as Bob has pointed out. The thickness of the T moulding that gets inserted into th table top will dictate what size bit you need, Slot cutters come it thicknesses from 1/16" to 1/2" . You will have to take a scrap board the same thickness as your top and determine exactly what depth you need to adjust the cutter. If the old table top had radius corners you will probably do the same with the new one. It helps to have a hair dryer and gloves to handle the moulding. You will heat the molding up and it will be much more pliable when making bends but it will be hot to the touch. If I remember right we used a slot cutter of about 1/8th'".
I hope this helps. Woodnut65


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

All I can say is he ( Ships to:	Worldwide ) 

That's what's neat about eBay many do.

Note*** if he can't do it, I will do it for you, I will buy them and forward them to you  or send you one of the 4 sets I have. 



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harrysin said:


> There lies the difference between our two countries, the cheapest set containing only four cutters is listed at $AUS79.00. If I could get a set at you're kind of prices I like you Bob wouldn't consider any other way. It's a bit like with Niki in Poland, tools are so expensive that he cleverly improvises using what he has to hand.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob, I have never dealt with Ebay, are they fixed prices or does one have to bid? I would like to buy a set of slot cutters and also a bag of 1/4" dowels, how do I go about it?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

It easy to buy off eBay,, some of the items you can hit the Buy NOW button if it listed and if not it's a bid item only, most run for 7 days the norm..
All most all the router bit item are listed as buy now..it's bit higher but in price but not by much...I don't like to play the bid game most of the time but it can be fun also ( mind games) you can buy many books for eBay but most of them you don't need.. 

Just logon to http://eBay.com and your off and running (buying)

BUT they can help...if you are selling items.
http://www.ebayhacks.com/exec/show/book2
http://www.ebayhacks.com/exec/show/book_paypal

--------------

You 1st. need to get set up with eBay, that's easy (user name and password thing) then you find the item you want and buy it or bid on it..
When you are looking at the adds besure to read ALL the details about the item they have listed..  

Bits ▼
http://stores.ebay.com/Super-Carbide-Tools
dowel pins ▼
http://cgi.ebay.com/DOWEL-PINS-BAG-...oryZ3126QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=1/4"+dowel+pins&category0=




harrysin said:


> Bob, I have never dealt with Ebay, are they fixed prices or does one have to bid? I would like to buy a set of slot cutters and also a bag of 1/4" dowels, how do I go about it?


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Bj,

I know this is probably a dumb question, but I am good at those at times. How do you go about controling the depth of cut with a slot cutter like you have linked to? I know it will only go as deep as the bearing allow, but let's say you want it somewhat less in depth. Is there a kit with various size bearings available?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

Almost all slot cutters come with a bearing on the shaft just under the cutter, most will cut up to 1/2" deep the norm and you can cut 3/4" by removing the bearing and just use the fence as a control but if you just want to put in a slot that's only a 1/4" deep the fence is the key, just move it back so you only have 1/4" pass the fence front.
I use a fence that has a slot in it so the cutter is the only thing that's sticking out but it needs a slot for the shaft and the bearing. 

But it's safe way to put in slots and to take the top off a box , all that's need when you remove the top from a box is a insert a spline in to fill the slot on both side that's taped in place then just cut the other two sides and your done.

quick and easy way...and it's clean and true, some used a band saw or table saw a table ,a table saw will give you a heart attack and most band saw can't go over 6".


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Bob N said:


> Bj,
> 
> I know this is probably a dumb question, but I am good at those at times. How do you go about controling the depth of cut with a slot cutter like you have linked to?


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Thanks Bj,

I knew you would have the answer and I think what was blocking me from seeing the picture to start with was the Oak-Park fence I use in it's original state. Perception of mind can work for and against you at different times


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

A nice clean 2 x 4 (on it's side) works great for this type of job, just a little bit of band saw/jig saw work and it's done. 





Bob N said:


> Thanks Bj,
> 
> I knew you would have the answer and I think what was blocking me from seeing the picture to start with was the Oak-Park fence I use in it's original state. Perception of mind can work for and against you at different times


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Excellent info Bob. You can do the same thing on the table saw and fill the slot and tape it just like a slotter. Both will work. I need to get a good slotter set!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Free handing on the table saw just puts chills down my back  you got more guts than I do bud...

Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

LOL Bob... got a big old 2 x 4 push block that sits on top of the box and hooks on the back. Stand out of the zone and let her go  If it would pinch I am holding the box down so hard that it will bind on the motor and I can flip the switch real quick if I get into trouble. No way would I be doing bare handing it. I am not crazy... almost . Another way is a method Doug Stowe uses is adjust the height to just a tick under the thickness of the stock so that you have a thin web that can be removed with a sharp utility knife. Sand it smooth on a piece of sand paper on a flat surface or glass. Still you don't have to have much blade sticking up and my hands are along way from the blade. Pretty comfortable doing that. Now resawing..... no way, I did it once and it scared me so bad I almost bailed mid cut on it. That's another reason I buy dimensioned stock!

corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

That's why I use the slot cutters, (flip the switch real quick ) before or after it takes my finger NO WAY bud    ,fingers,,,it took me a long time to grow them and they do come in handy ....like saying hi to other drivers on the road with the right finger


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

BJ... the worst that will happen with my way of doing it is it kicks it back at me and hits me between the eyes  . Actually the thought of one of those slot cutters raises the hair on my neck doing that job. Any of those big bits whirring on that router table makes me think twice  Either one though will remove a digit if you are not watching and controlling the situation but I have more between me and the blade I think on the saw. 

corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey Bob one more note about the Dremel table 

Now that you have the Colt, you will not need a Dremel table once you mount your Colt in a router table, all you need is to get the item below ,then you can use the Colt with the VS control and use all the Dremel tools in your new router table.. 

Steel Adaptor Bushings
#271 and this one #273
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/adapbush.html

I have the full set and they work great...



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bobj3 said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> That's when the Dremel table comes into play , it can be a pain to cut a straight line with it but once it's mounted in the table it's easy job, I use it all the time to cut thin plastic parts true...or to say straight
> It's great when you want to just remove a 1/16" or 1/8" and keep it true.
> ...


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bj what dremel cutter would you use in the Colt to separate boxes? 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Here's the key, you can slow down the slot cutter but the saw is always running at top speed and if you get in a jam you can just pull it away from the cutter, I run mind at about 8,000 rpm or lower and that speed because of the dia. it's just moving along slow but doing it's job...plus it flat on the table and you are in control.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

That saw blade you sent off for or you can get small dia. saw blades for the Dremel but aging the slot cutter in the Colt table will do the job just fine 
I think you got a 1/2" harbor for the saw blade you have but all you need to do is make a center ring to hold the blade true in a Dremel arbor, but the slot slot cutter is great, you can get one that's 3/32" and cuts stock just like butter...plus you can stack them and make the splines easy..

Just need to make a fence. 

or just buy the blades and a adaptor bushing from MLCS part number #271

Dremel blades and arbor ▼
http://www.amazon.com/2-Wood-Cuttin...94-7750249?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1181620076&sr=8-3


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challagan said:


> Bj what dremel cutter would you use in the Colt to separate boxes?
> 
> Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

BJ I like the idea of using the saw blade for making thin splines in boxes that can be filled with veneer etc. I like the looks of the tiny splines. I will just have to get a slot cutter set and give them a try. 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Here's a snapshot or two of the fence I now use on the Colt router table to remove tops from boxes or to put in slots... the one in the picture(s) below is a 1/8" slot cut..
cutting into some MDF stock, The Bosch Colt has all the power you need at the low speed, it's a GREAT router 

Thanks again for the heads up on this little 1HP router 

Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Nice.... need to get a couple new 2 X  

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Corey

2 x  2" x 4" = ? right,,,,,,, now see if you had a planer you could make some in a heart beat LOL  

LOL LO LOL  

By the way that's some 1" x 4" scrap pine in the snapshots for the fence just glued and screwed to make a quick fence ..

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## Clem Wixted (Jun 9, 2007)

Thanks, Dave.



Dr.Zook said:


> Welcome to the Router Forums Clem and a belated Happy Birthday to you.


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## Clem Wixted (Jun 9, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Clem
> I think you are talking about this type of plastic T-edging molding, the norm is a 1/16 slot (5/64") see link below.
> ...
> Use one of the SMALL battery saws with a 1/16" saw BLADE set to 1/4" to 5/16" deep.
> ...


Bobj3,

I used my small battery saw with a thin finish blade (1/16") and made the cuts freehand. I clamped a 2X4 to the edge of the table on the long sides and lined up the blade with the middle ply of the 3/4 plywood. This worked good for the length because the ply was grain long so it was soft and easy to cut. The short length was cross grain and it was slightly harder but because the cut was so shallow it went very well. I also freehanded the rounded corners and was a little shakey in some of the grooves but the straight sides were good so the edging stayed in the rounded corners very well. I had to tap the edging into the groove all around the edge.

Thanks for your help.

Clem

P.S. This has been an interesting thread, thanks for all of the input and the welcome.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Clem

and your'er welcome glad to see you got it done 
The heat gun works great on the corners or a hair dryer also but it can't get to warm.

It's fun stuff to install and sure makes it a nice clean job over the plywood..(dress up the edge(s) ) plus it will stay in place unlike the edging that you use a hot iron on. 

How about a picture or two, that would be nice 

------------------


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## Michaelgordon1959 (Oct 4, 2018)

Rockler has the bit in different thicknesses and they also sell the t molding.


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## Michaelgordon1959 (Oct 4, 2018)

My t molding uses 1/16” slot cutting router bit. Purchased at Rockler and they have t molding too.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

pick your poison...
Freud Tools - Search Results for table edge router bit


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