# Simple-Easy Yet Elegant Lantern Project



## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

*Safety*
I want to preface this post with a couple of statements borrowed from forum member JOAT (Theo) who was the Safety Week Contest winner. The winning quote was, 
“_Keep all body parts away from all whirly parts._” Not a bad idea!

Theo in his good nature gave me permission to use them – they are important safety reminders,

“_Some of the things I do other people consider unsafe, but I pay a lot (a LOT) of attention to what/how I do things, and stay safe. I think about it a lot beforehand. Some things I wind up NOT doing - because I consider them unsafe._”

If you don’t think this is safe *DON’T DO IT* 

Fingers do get within a couple of centimeters the whirly parts, so pay attention to what you are doing. Last fall when I built the first 12 lanterns I did not have the rubber finger tips. The added friction of the rubber made holding the part much safer and easier.

One other note one Safety: When making adjustments to the router, unplug it please. We have enough “Ouch that hurt” pictures on the forum, we don’t need another set.

I wrote this with detailed directions for two reasons. First, there are many out there who do need them. Many of you don’t need them; you can just look at the finished project and do it. If you are one of them, skip reading the rest and go for it. The second reason: Im really learning the ropes when It comes to routing, my process can be improved and I invite comments from our expert users.

I suggest making three the first time: One, the trial version, and two others to give away.

*Materials for 1 lantern*
(Imperial dimensions are approximations)

1 900mm (36”) 15mm (2/3”) X 15mm (legs)
2 900mm (36”) 2mm (1/8”) X 4mm (1/4) (lattice)
4 130mm (5”) X 150mm (6”) rice paper 
1 3mm (3/16”) thick plywood (300mm X 300mm is enough for 4) (Bottom optional)
Various scrap wood for jigs and test cuts
Elmer’s glue for the rice paper
Wood glue for the wood joints.

*Materials for electrical lighting* (optional)
2m of zip cord, 1.25mm (16 gauge)
1 male plug
1 thumb wheel switch
1 17mm light receptacle
1 17mm LED 0.8w or 1.2w
2 3mm X 20mm screws with nuts and washers.

*1)* The cutting/stop block board can be made from two scraps of 20mm (3/4”) X 100mm (4”) glue and screw the two pieces together in the form of an “L”. Mark a 90° line on the backside of the board and cut it with the saw you will be using; make sure you are not near a screw.

I prefer and use a Japanese saw which cuts on the pull like a hacksaw. With little practice you can literally cut paper-thin pieces off of stock. Because it is a pull-cut the metal is thinner and has a thinner kerf. If you use a push saw the cutting board will need to be turned around with the back away from you.

*2)* Clamp the cutting board to the bench and add a stop block on the board 223mm (8 ¾) from the 90° cut (Picture 1). Cut the 900mm board into four pieces (Picture 2). Make sure you blow out the sawdust before cutting the next piece; leaving the sawdust there will create irregular lengths or a cut not 90°.

*3)* Move the stop block to 130mm (5”) from the cut slot and cut 8 pieces of the lattice stock for each lantern.

*4)* Arrange the legs grain for a pattern (Picture 3) and mark each of the exposed sides on both ends for the plunge route (Picture 4). Wood movement here is not a consideration, but aesthetics are (the insides will be the outside-visible part of the legs when assembled). The marks are for visual reference to ensure you are cutting the correct side of the leg. The stops on the router fence will locate the cuts.

*5)* Make sure the router is unplugged and locate the left stop block 38mm (1 ½”) from the blade on the bit (the blade needs to be pointing to the left). Locate the right stop block 177mm (7”) from the blade on the bit (blade needs to be pointing right as in Picture 5, 6). The fence should be located to center the slot on the leg. Use scrap pieces to test the setup, then route four slots in each leg.

*NOTE:* The bit is a 2mm straight bit, and the entire cut needs to be 5mm long for a 2mm X 4mm piece to fit in. The depth of the cut should be as deep as it can be with out cutting through into the adjacent cut. If it’s too deep glue will fill the adjacent slot and or the other lattice won’t fit right.

*6)* Start the plunge by pushing the leg against the fence and the right stop, swivel the leg down on to the bit (Picture 7). As the cut starts slide the leg to the left stop while keeping it pushed tight on the fence. Seesaw the leg down onto the bit a millimeter or two with each pass. That will allow you to keep control of the leg and keep the bit from clogging.

The red rubber tips were a great aide, the can be found at most office supply stores. The red ones opposed to other colors are more visible. 

*7)* Unplug the router and change the straight bit to a 45° chamfer. Move the left stop out to 177mm (7”). Set the fence so it is even with the front edge of the guide bearing. The depth of the cut should leave slightly less than 1mm of wood between the slot and the chamfer. Adjust for the right cut and run a test cut. Put the leg on the right stop and swivel it into the bit and then cut the bevel (Picture 8, 9). The leg should look like Picture 10.

*NOTE:* The bevel is necessary for the gluing of the rice paper.

*8)* Sand the legs to make sure all markings and finger prints are gone.

*9)* A jig is necessary to achieve uniform size frames. My jig was 117mm (4 2/3”) X 131mm (5 1/6”). Adjust your jig size for your dimensions. The corners were cut to keep the glue off the jig.

*IMPORTANT:* Dry fit the pieces before gluing. Picture 11 is starting the glue up and Picture 12 after cleaning up the glue. After the glue dries the rice paper can be applied.

*10)* While the glue is drying print the rice paper. We found rice paper when in the states. I think it was in the wallpaper section, but it may have been in a craft shop. I don’t remember, we went to TOO MANY stores finding things (necessary?) for the wedding. 

*NOTE:* Rice paper has fiber added in it for decoration and strength. The fiber needs to be cotton or silk for printing. Fibers made from petroleum (nylon etc) are slick and the ink won’t adhere to them. 

*11)* Put a bead of glue on the lattice and bevel, (Picture 13) smooth the glue and use a wet rag to wipe the excess of the legs and lattice. The glue should be 1 mm from the edge of the bevel and edge of the lattice (Picture 14).

*12)* Carefully lay the paper on the frame. While holding one corner of the rice paper, lightly rub the rice paper onto the lattice with the other hand (Picture 15). Start at the corner being held and work to the other corner. You want keep the paper stretched as you are rubbing in into the glue. Do the same with the other lattice, bevels last. Rub down the bevels in the same fashion, holding a corner. Be careful, the bevels have a tendency to make folds/waves. You can stretch the paper to remove them. Once it is all glued down stretch the paper (Picture 16) stretch the paper toward all four corners. You want the paper flat and tight. After the glue dries while holding the frame by one leg tap the outside of the other leg, it should sound like a tambourine or a drum head. The nice thing about rice paper; if you mess it up its easy to take off and clean up and then redo it.

*NOTE:* Rice paper moves more than wood. Glue it up on a wet humid day, or lightly mist (no drops) the back of the paper with water (too much water will run the ink). That will help make the paper tight.

*13)* Cut off the excess paper then clean up the trimming. The bevels need to be cut at a 45° (Picture 17).

*14)* Assemble the two frames. 

*NOTE:* don’t forget to dry fit before gluing. Check both sides on the jig (Picture 18). Set a heavy object on top of the lantern and check all four legs for squareness (Picture 19, 20). 

*15)* Glue the final two pieces of paper, following the steps in 12). Let dry and trim.

*16)* Cut the bottom (Picture 22). NOTE: the bottom is bigger than the glue up jig by about 8mm. Glue the bottom to the bottom lattice.

If you don’t have a scroll saw use a break-away cutter that locks with a thumb wheel (Picture 21 next post). Box cutters, or break-away cutters that have a sliding thumb lock are dangerous for cutting plywood; the blade will stick in the plywood and pull out of the cutter.


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

Here are the rest of the pictures that didn't fit in the first post, and two PDF files for printing the rice paper.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Daikusan said:


> *Safety*
> I want to preface this post with a couple of statements borrowed from forum member JOAT (Theo) who was the Safety Week Contest winner. The winning quote was,
> “_Keep all body parts away from all whirly parts._” Not a bad idea!
> 
> ...


Darn, I forgot to charge you. :haha:


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## Wildwood (Aug 14, 2010)

That's a great idea and a great tutorial Steve - thanks for sharing it with us.


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## Yeoman (May 20, 2013)

Not wanting to detract from the splendid lantern project I would like to offer a few words on safety. I have a not much used Makita which has a pretty stupid flick on off switch. I picked the router up by the rails it slides up and down on and inadvertently flicked it to ON. Having a 1/2 inch router bit rotating at some 30,000 RPM 1/8" off your knuckle concentrates the mind.....a lot.
I now cut all the leads off my power tools leaving about 8" to which I fix a flat plug, obviously I have an extension lead with a matching socket. Now I don't have to go to the mains socket to disconnect, I do it at the tool.
This has actually proved to be an advantage, one wall socket and an appropriately sized extension lead is all it takes to power all my tools, after all you only use them one at a time.
I hope you find this useful, I understand Festool have a similar arrangement, but I thought of it first, thanks to that old Makita.
Alex
He who dies with the most tools wins! (I understand that the winner can take his tools with him, or her)


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## gwizz (Mar 3, 2012)

Great Project - nice design and well executed.


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

Very nice work Steve and a very well done post of your work, clear and PDF's as well, thanks for that, Neville


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## bosox (Jun 12, 2012)

That is a very detailed process! Thanks for posting. You did it well and nicely executed.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Yeoman said:


> I now cut all the leads off my power tools leaving about 8" to which I fix a flat plug, obviously I have an extension lead with a matching socket. Now I don't have to go to the mains socket to disconnect, I do it at the tool.
> This has actually proved to be an advantage, one wall socket and an appropriately sized extension lead is all it takes to power all my tools, after all you only use them one at a time.


I have always used an extension cord with my tools in the shop, but I leave the cords as is, don't bother cutting them short, just unplug when finished, plug in the next tool when I use it.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Yeoman said:


> Not wanting to detract from the splendid lantern project I would like to offer a few words on safety. I have a not much used Makita which has a pretty stupid flick on off switch. I picked the router up by the rails it slides up and down on and inadvertently flicked it to ON. Having a 1/2 inch router bit rotating at some 30,000 RPM 1/8" off your knuckle concentrates the mind.....a lot.
> I now cut all the leads off my power tools leaving about 8" to which I fix a flat plug, obviously I have an extension lead with a matching socket. Now I don't have to go to the mains socket to disconnect, I do it at the tool.
> This has actually proved to be an advantage, one wall socket and an appropriately sized extension lead is all it takes to power all my tools, after all you only use them one at a time.
> I hope you find this useful, I understand Festool have a similar arrangement, but I thought of it first, thanks to that old Makita.
> ...


Alex, that sounds like lack of concentration and "operator error".

Glad to here that you did not suffer as a consequence, and you found a workable solution.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Nice job Steve.


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

JOAT said:


> Darn, I forgot to charge you. :haha:


I owe you. :sold: Its to late to name the price, besides I dont think I could afford it. I have to figure out something. Maybe I could make a special set of chopstick with my router.


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

Wildwood said:


> That's a great idea and a great tutorial Steve - thanks for sharing it with us.


Thanks for the comment, don’t know if it was that great but it makes me happy that you thinks so.


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

Yeoman said:


> Not wanting to detract from the splendid lantern project I would like to offer a few words on safety. I have a not much used Makita which has a pretty stupid flick on off switch. I picked the router up by the rails it slides up and down on and inadvertently flicked it to ON. Having a 1/2 inch router bit rotating at some 30,000 RPM 1/8" off your knuckle concentrates the mind.....a lot.
> I now cut all the leads off my power tools leaving about 8" to which I fix a flat plug, obviously I have an extension lead with a matching socket. Now I don't have to go to the mains socket to disconnect, I do it at the tool.
> This has actually proved to be an advantage, one wall socket and an appropriately sized extension lead is all it takes to power all my tools, after all you only use them one at a time.
> I hope you find this useful, I understand Festool have a similar arrangement, but I thought of it first, thanks to that old Makita.
> ...


Alex
You make a great point that many people overlook. I have an 10’ extension (12 gauge) permanently attached to my table with an outlet box on it. It is right beside the on/off switch on the router. Unplugging the router became an easy habit to form because of it being so close. Hopefully others will see you comment and do something similar if they haven’t already.


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

Richard, Neville, Jack, and Charles, Thank you all for the encouraging comments.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Daikusan said:


> I owe you. :sold: Its to late to name the price, besides I dont think I could afford it. I have to figure out something. Maybe I could make a special set of chopstick with my router.


Chopsticks? Chopsticks? Everyone knows chopsticks aren't a 'man's' eating tools. A knife and a spoon are what a man eats with. Use the knife to push food into the spoon, then shove that in your mouth, repeat. MUCH faster than chopsticks. :haha:

Actually I'd call your bluff and take you up on the chopsticks, except I haven't eaten with chopsticks in many years. It always cracks me up to go to a Oriental/Chinese resturaunt and see someone ask for chopsticks. Never seen anyone doing that yet that was actually any good using them. :no:


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

JOAT said:


> I have always used an extension cord with my tools in the shop, but I leave the cords as is, don't bother cutting them short, just unplug when finished, plug in the next tool when I use it.


Same here, almost. One lead for power tools and another for the shop vac etc. Only one power tool plugged in at a time makes it easier to know where to be careful. However I know from when I was working at the factory that this arrangement is not always practical, particularly when high volumes are required. 

Darryl


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

JOAT said:


> Chopsticks? Chopsticks? Everyone knows chopsticks aren't a 'man's' eating tools. A knife and a spoon are what a man eats with. Use the knife to push food into the spoon, then shove that in your mouth, repeat. MUCH faster than chopsticks. :haha:
> 
> Actually I'd call your bluff and take you up on the chopsticks, except I haven't eaten with chopsticks in many years. It always cracks me up to go to a Oriental/Chinese resturaunt and see someone ask for chopsticks. Never seen anyone doing that yet that was actually any good using them. :no:


Hee Hee fingers were invented before forks, knives, and chopsticks. We must go to a Chinese restaurant sometime when Im back in the states. I would challenge you to a contest but Im afraid to lose…


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

Daikusan said:


> Richard, Neville, Jack, and Charles, Thank you all for the encouraging comments.


Steve your lanterns are very neat and there is only one thing left to say, I downloaded your PDFs and one day I will make some. NGM


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## Yeoman (May 20, 2013)

JOAT said:


> I have always used an extension cord with my tools in the shop, but I leave the cords as is, don't bother cutting them short, just unplug when finished, plug in the next tool when I use it.


Bearing in mind the close proximity that I came to the whirlybit I wanted a constant reminder nearby, also I tend to hang my tools up and the cut off leads are more convenient.

Alex


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## Yeoman (May 20, 2013)

Daikusan said:


> Alex
> You make a great point that many people overlook. I have an 10’ extension (12 gauge) permanently attached to my table with an outlet box on it. It is right beside the on/off switch on the router. Unplugging the router became an easy habit to form because of it being so close. Hopefully others will see you comment and do something similar if they haven’t already.


Thanks for your comment, I achieve the same reminder due to the shortness of the cable on the tool.

Alex


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## Yeoman (May 20, 2013)

jw2170 said:


> Alex, that sounds like lack of concentration and "operator error".
> 
> Glad to here that you did not suffer as a consequence, and you found a workable solution.


I was new to routers and hold up my hand up, but in my defense the little on off switch was, and remains, dangerous, hopefully my suggestion, and confession will save someone from a potential disaster, the router is now retired and replaced by a Triton.

Alex


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

neville9999 said:


> Steve your lanterns are very neat and there is only one thing left to say, I downloaded your PDFs and one day I will make some. NGM


Thanks
Hopefully your product will top mine.


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## Yeoman (May 20, 2013)

Hello James, I had to smile at your report on making a plate and the eventual outcome, it was so tempting to suggest that it could be due to lack of concentration and operator error! We must all face it, we are all liable to slip up once in a while, just make sure you don't get hurt.
Altx


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Yeoman said:


> Hello James, I had to smile at your report on making a plate and the eventual outcome, it was so tempting to suggest that it could be due to lack of concentration and operator error! We must all face it, we are all liable to slip up once in a while, just make sure you don't get hurt.
> Altx


Hi Alex.

losing a finger....................losing 10 minutes of time......

If I have to explain.........


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## Yeoman (May 20, 2013)

JOAT said:


> I have always used an extension cord with my tools in the shop, but I leave the cords as is, don't bother cutting them short, just unplug when finished, plug in the next tool when I use it.


Hi, the reason I cut the leads off is twofold, I don't have to find the end of the lead to change power cord, the leads seem to be getting to be a more reasonable length if you don't change them, so it can be a bit distant. The other is that I have the majority of my tools hanging up from the rafters of my workshop and the long leads are a pain to keep tidy and not develop into some sort of rough knitting. I have a day to day lead of about 12ft and a longer one of about 20ft. I have also fabricated extension leads with flat 3 pin plugs/sockets to extend these if needed, enough to reach almost anywhere I want to use my tools. Alex


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## Yeoman (May 20, 2013)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Alex.
> 
> losing a finger....................losing 10 minutes of time......
> 
> If I have to explain.........


Hi James, Just be safe and have fun. Alex

We are all running out of time so live every day as if its your last, because one day you'll be right!


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