# Table saw router table extension



## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

Hello Guys,
I hope I can get all this in before the forum times me out, I use the hunt n' peck method of typing! LOL.

Anyhow, I asked, got an answer and still no luck with my question, must be me or some sort of "brain block"!

I could not find any exacting references to a "table saw router table extension" in the forums.

*Anyone else made one of these and/or have references to "table saw router table extension" online anywhere?*

I don't know if the forum will let me out in a link yet, but as I get time I'm working on one, pix are at *ourpage.org/router/index.html* (copy and past in a new browser window address bar)

Still, every post I've read in here is very enlightening, no matter where I seem to land! 

Cordially,
Gerry


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Gerry,

There are a few threads with this very subject. The newest thread is this one: http://www.routerforums.com/table-m...on-router-wing.html?highlight=table+extension

If you're wanting to purchase one, check with the brand of TS you have. To make one, isn't that difficult to do.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

Hi Ken, 
I'm working on one now, or more accurately, when I get the time. It's not as fancy as you experienced guys would make, but I'm just starting out.

I was looking for tips and tricks for reading material on the subject to see if there are better ways to do what I thought up.
http://www.ourpage.org/router/index.html

I can't afford to purchase one on retirement income, the better half would have a fit! LOL!

Cordially,
Gerry
also "A VETERAN" and retired.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

The first thing I noticed is the top material will need to be strengthened. You are going to get serious dip in it. More cross bracing near the router is needed. A double layer of top material would help also.


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## opelblues (Aug 22, 2008)

i would say a all thumbs up standard, great work hope to see some projects you made or going to make, welcome aboard


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

Hi Mike, 
I believe in what you say about strength. 
I was somewhat worried about that also. Because of that, on the outboard side I have a 1" piece of angle iron screwed across the bottom. The ninth and tenth images sort show a piece of it. Also the table itself is surrounded by 1/8" by 1-1/2" steel on three sides.

But your thoughts are greatly appreciated! 
I think I will look into adding some angle iron stock that will serve triple duty, 
1. act as anchoring for the plate. 
2. provide a place for leveling the corners of the plate.
3. add strength to the table material.

Cordially,
Gerry


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

*Consider Dust extraction*

Hi Gerry,
Had a look at your router table Work in Progress. Looks very well thought out and done.

What others usually also have:-
1. Dust extraction chutes. 
Usually one attached to the fence and one under the table. So when you build the fence you may want to consider that.

2. Mitre track/T-slot
Not mandatory but a "nice to have". 

3. A couple of Featherboards. 
Plastic ones are not expensive to buy. But you can make them yourself.

4. NVR switch.


Reuel
(reuel means a friend of God)


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

reuelt said:


> Hi Gerry,
> Had a look at your router table Work in Progress. Looks very well thought out and done.
> 
> What others usually also have:-
> ...


Thanks Reuel!
*All suggestions are appreciated!*

Dust extraction is in the planning of the fence adapter I'm designing.
I'm contemplating something for under the table as well by adapting the plate to accept a vacuum adapter that came with the router kit(s).

Miter Track is for the next version as I fear routing out for one in this table will weaken it too much. Unless I'm happy with additional angle iron I intend to attach. Any suggestion as to distance from bit for it? 

Feather boards are a must! 

NVR switch?  In the plan is a switch, (came in the mail on Thursday), with a removable toggle, (exact same as on table saw) that will switch a receptacle that the router will plug into. 

Cordially,
Gerry


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

"Miter Track is for the next version as I fear routing out for one in this table will weaken it too much. Unless I'm happy with additional angle iron I intend to attach. Any suggestion as to distance from bit for it? "


Most miter tracks for router tables are 5" away from the router center.
Does not matter if it is 6" or more away.

Since your table saw miter track, you already have a miter gauge that you can share.
I would first glue say a straight 5/8" thick by 2" wide by table length plywood or MDF or particle board underneath the table where the miter track would be routed before I route the track. Then the miter track routed from the top would not weaken the table. 
Make the track the same dimension as the track of the table saw so that you can use the table saw miter gauge.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Gerard_sr said:


> Thanks Reuel!
> 
> 
> NVR switch?  In the plan is a switch, (came in the mail on Thursday), with a removable toggle, (exact same as on table saw) that will switch a receptacle that the router will plug into.
> ...


Don't know all that much about electrical stuff so, "NVR" is a mystery to me, also. But, the best thing I ever did for my table set up was to add a foot activated switch. 

I don't remember (age related) where I got it online. MLCS, maybe?


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

Hi Gene,
I sorta know the electrical stuff, been doin' the likes of it since at least 1969, but the abbreviation; "*NVR switch*" has me at a loss.
I'll think about a foot switch, I have a bunch of low power type that can easily be set up with a relay to turn things on.
I think I would also put it in series with the on/off switch I planned to use for a positive off. I don't want to accidentally step on the floor switch when I'm changing a bit or have my fingers in a potentially dangerous position!
*I may even put in a warning lamp that would be on when the on/off switch is in the on position and the foot switch is activated or ready to be stepped on.*

*I like that idea!* Especially when I read a post on here last night about a guy that lost a few fingers due to a different type of accident. It would be simple to do, I think I might use a red Christmas tree sized bulb, 3-7 watts, and mount the thing on the router plate so the red light can be seen through the plate insert! Might even get that patented! LOL!

*Thanks for the idea!*

Cordially,
Gerry


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

Thanks Reuel!
After I thought about it a bit, the location question, I sort of figgured out the same sort of answer.
As to the gluing of the MDF to the underside, good thought! Only I would glue, and screw it as well.
I'll think on that as I would have to notch out the steel I have on each side as well, to clear the track. Hummm....

*By The Way; what's a NVR switch?*

Cordially,
Gerry


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

A NVR switch.... check out this link: http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=A0geu.acT.../acatalog/Online_Catalogue_NVR_switch_75.html


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

Gerard_sr said:


> Thanks Reuel!
> After I thought about it a bit, the location question, I sort of figgured out the same sort of answer.
> As to the gluing of the MDF to the underside, good thought! Only I would glue, and screw it as well.
> I'll think on that as I would have to notch out the steel I have on each side as well, to clear the track. Hummm....
> ...


Hi Gerry,

Sorry for mentioning "NVR switch". It is probably a term used in UK & Australia. It means "No Voltage Release". When there is a power failure for example, the router will stay off even when the power returns if you use an NVR switch. It will not turn on until user press the green button again.


Since I knew you already have bought a remote switch, I did not want to trouble you again. 

Your switch will be good enough. 
"NVR switch" is probably called by another name in USA. In Japan, it is simply called a "magnetic switch".


Best regards

Reuel


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

Ah HA!
Thanks Reuel and Ken, 
a *No Volt Release* switch.
or a positive off switch, I guess NVR name may have been used in the UK because over there the mains are something like 220 volts. I remember on one of my visits to Germany, with my job, I had the opportunity to use a voltmeter on an outlet there. If I remember it correctly it was something like 70 volts to ground from one side and 150 volts to ground on the other side. I don't remember if I took any measurements when I was in Australia.
So this type of switch would disconnect both poles.
In the US and with polarized plugs, it isn't necessary to open both lines unless it's a 220 circuit. Most of our stuff here is 110.
With a foot switch added, I don't think I would need a relay or magnetic switch in my case.
Still, it is worth consideration. Let me hack a diagram up and post it.
No, the switch I bought is a standard switch, but wait till I diagram it up, you'll see.

Cordially,
Gerry


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*Router Safety foot switch.*



Gerard_sr said:


> Ah HA!
> Thanks Reuel and Ken,


Attached are four images, if I can get the forum to work right for me!
Anyhow, one is some of the parts I'll be using for that router table switch, the second is a diagram of how I'll wire it.

I'm thinking of the novel idea of locating the red lamp near the router collet, mounted to the base plate. Then when ever the power switch is on and the foot switch ready for use, the red light will be on and visible through the hole in the insert around the bit as a reminder to shut the main switch off before attempting to change the bit! (see image attachment "red-light.jpg" and no-red-light.jpg")

Since the foot switch is a low power type, it will be used to turn on power to the DPDT, (double pole double throw), relay. Unless the relay is activated, there will be NO power at the outlet that the router will be plugged in to.

Now watch some router bit company snap up this idea and claim it's theirs, patent it and try to sell it for at least $50 !!! So to cover that, let me say here and for the record, this idea is "freeware" and any company is hereby forbidden to patent my idea. All, commercial entities and individuals, may use it freely without compensation for it's use with one exception! It must be referred to as a "Gerard Switch". If commercial entities wish to offer one to me from a production run, it would be appreciated.

Cordially,
Gerry


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Nice schematic, Gerry. Looks like a good idea.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

My set up is already like that using a 75 watt work light that is brite. It is attached through an auto function and foot switch similar to your idea and the 75 lamp only turns off if the main power for the auto switch on the vac is turned off. If the lamp is on the router can be off, but the power still hot. 

I press the foot switch both the light and router stay on. Press again router off, but the lamp stays on, reminding me to unplug the vac(power source) if I need to.

I believe it is the same idea just using the vac auto function instead of it own circuit.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*The continuing saga... WIP*

Hi Guys,
Well the next real step was making a fence that could be attached or removed easily from my table saw fence.

Granted this is NOT one of those fancy micro adjustable and maybe that will come later on.

I took advantage of some clamps that were available at Rockler and now it's a cinch to slip off this fence and put the sacrificial board back on.

I still have to find the piece of Plexiglas I had around here somewhere and make an attachment for the Shopvac.

Wait till you see that trick!

Anyhow I hope you enjoy the photos and constructive criticism is always appreciated!

Matter of fact, additional ideas are welcome!

Cordially,
Gerry


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*Tested the top vacuum adapter today!*

Last night the wife's car was in the garage and I could not pull my saw/router table out to work on it, so I worked on the fence by itself. I found my 1/8" Plexiglas and cut it to size with my other Freud router. I drilled holes in it and marked off a cutout for the hose adapter, *a part from an old upright vacuum cleaner!* This part had a brush attached to it, but it was easy to remove. The part is made of a softer, more malleable plastic. I routed it's hole out freehand with my other Freud. I drilled two holes in it and used some longer 8/32 Phillips screws, nuts and washers to attach it to the Plexiglas. I then mounted the Plexiglas, with some 10/32 sheet metal screws and more washers, to the fence.

Today I had the chance to test it. I plugged in the Shopvac into a ceiling outlet that the fluorescent lights are plugged into. When I turned it on, the fluorescent lamps blinked, but it was OK.

As for the test with the router cutting, well it was quite impressive to see all them little chips go to never-never-land in the Shopvac! 

A second test with both the router and the Shopvac plugged into the same circuit, now a 20 amp, worked fine.

I'm well pleased! 

Cordially,
Gerry

( whole story so far on my page at http://www.ourpage.org/router/index.html )


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*The continuing saga... WIP*

To continue...
I neatened up the wires I had used for prototyping that safety switch thing. Well actually I ripped them all apart and re-did it nicer.

For those interested there are photos posted on my *router page* starting at image #29.

Teaser image attached. 

Cordially,
Gerry


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*To continue....*



Gerard_sr said:


> To continue...


I added corner leveling blocks, that I made, and a fence adjuster, that I made, to my project.

It can be seen at: http://ourpage.org/router/index.html

Teaser images attached.

Cordially,
Gerry


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Looks like it will work great. Good job Gerry.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

Hi Doc,
Thanks! You also should take a gander at the table leveling scheme I applied to it as well. I'm pretty proud of that.
Cordially,
Gerry


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

Gerry, good work on the router table. it looks great. i like your plate levelers. they sell something that works on the same concept,but the leveling screws are plastic and not nearly as substantial as your. i want to build a new fence for my table and i like the replaceable mid section that is cut on the angles. what degree angles did you use?


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*Thanks Levon!*



levon said:


> Gerry, good work on the router table. it looks great. i like your plate levelers. they sell something that works on the same concept,but the leveling screws are plastic and not nearly as substantial as your. i want to build a new fence for my table and i like the replaceable mid section that is cut on the angles. what degree angles did you use?


Thanks Levon!

They were made from 1/4" scraps of aluminum. Them and the bolts came from a dumpster! LOL! (I did buy the #10x3/4" pan head screws though.) If you decide to use that idea, try and keep the apex of a triangle formed by lines between the mounting screws and adjustment screw, as small as possible.

That fence is salvaged 3/4 white pine with a surface of that white coated Masonite product glued to it, Lowes sells it in 4x8 sheets. I had some left over from my porch.

Oh, Yea, the angle! Well that's a standard 45 degree. The bottom is also held in place by the 2" stock behind it, the top has two metal tabs to hold it. Image 23 kind of shows the bottom and also shows the metal tabs.

I saw something like it somewhere on line and modified the idea to suit my needs. If I had to do that part over, I would consider making it a V rather than an angle to eliminate the top metal tabs. I have a second piece glued up and ready to cut for other inserts.

Cordially,
Gerry


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

doesnt it always seem that we all build things and there is 1 thing we would do differently next time,lol looks great! im not an experienced woodworker but as i continue building jigs for various purposes, i can see my quality and accuracy improving. that is a satisfying feeling.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

i see what you mean about the metal tabs. i was thinking of using a solid board then attaching a fence like yours to it, then the solid backer board would hold the insert.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

I'm darn rusty, last time I did serious "woodworking" was back in high school in 1969! They were building a new shop out of a three "bus" garage and we built all the cabinetry in it over the summer in 68'. I also built a big old stereo cabinet in 69'. Remember those? But as the need arose, I did respond. I hope now, to get some of what you call "more experience"!
Also, now that I'm retired, I have to "clean up my act" and re-organize half of the basement into a genuine shop. That's why in some of the photos you see the "boss's" car. I roll the saw out into the garage area, roll it back and clean up before she gets home from work.
Cordially,
Gerry


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

levon said:


> i see what you mean about the metal tabs. i was thinking of using a solid board then attaching a fence like yours to it, then the solid backer board would hold the insert.


That'll work just fine!
Did you see my crazy fence adjuster? 
It works nice for taking successively deeper cuts.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

yep, that looks like it came out of a factory. thats what i like a simple clean design that works! nice job on the adjuster. as far as being rusty, practice makes perfect, or in my case as good as possible, lol. my problem has always been patience. i am getting better as i age. i have worked on the bandsaw for a couple of days now. today i stopped because i had worked all day on my job and then the bandsaw. i knew i needed to be rested when i did the adjusting of the guides


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## woodnthings (Jan 30, 2009)

Gerry, my friend, Me thinks you've already started down the road to making your own "table saw router extension" but I myself have the Bench Dog Pro Max cast iron model and in fact liked it so much I just ordered another from Amazon! Peachtree Woodworking Supply at ptreeusa.com also lists their version for around $230. A hundred bucks less than BDog's. I welded my own base for the first and will make another for the second. The Jessem Master R lift is a joy to use as is the PC 7518 EVS router to power it. By the time all is said and done about $1000 in the whole shootin" match! One could buy a mighty fine shootin' piece for that amount but that's a whole 'nother story! I actually bolted a table from an old Craftsman table saw to my other old Craftsman table saw to make the table wider. My Bench Dog Extension table never made it to the tablesaw and is a now free standing unit. Floor space just sees to disappear around here!!?? I wonder why? "One can never have too much horsepower, too many bullets, or too many tools!" ..and sometimes I throw "good looking" women in there as well! You have done a splendid job on your Home Made table, very creative and well thought out. Also very good pictures as usual.... So off I go, Bill


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*Thank you Bill for the compliments!*



woodnthings said:


> Gerry, my friend, Me thinks you've already started down the road to making your own "table saw router extension" but I myself have the Bench Dog Pro Max cast iron model and in fact liked it so much I just ordered another from Amazon! Peachtree Woodworking Supply at ptreeusa.com also lists their version for around $230. A hundred bucks less than BDog's. I welded my own base for the first and will make another for the second. The Jessem Master R lift is a joy to use as is the PC 7518 EVS router to power it. By the time all is said and done about $1000 in the whole shootin" match! One could buy a mighty fine shootin' piece for that amount but that's a whole 'nother story! I actually bolted a table from an old Craftsman table saw to my new Craftsman table saw to make the table wider. My Bench Dog Extension table never made it to the tablesaw and is a now free standing unit. Floor space just sees to disappear around here!!?? I wonder why? "One can never have too much horsepower, too many bullets, or too many tools!" ..and sometimes I throw "good looking" women in there as well! You have done a splendid job on your Home Made table, very creative and well thought out. Also very good pictures as usual.... So off I go, Bill


*Thank you Bill for the compliments!*
The Bench Dog Pro Max is a sweet thing!
I sure wish I could have bought one factory made, but it was an opportunity to engineer some stuff into it not available on commercial tables and an exercise in solving problems.
Another factor that involved predominately in my decision not to save for a factory made one, costs. Retirement income is rather meager and I did what I could with what I had so I could have it sooner.
No doubt, someday, I'll take that route, but for now this one will suffice. It will also be a learning tool to see what I would like in a future table.

Cordially,
Gerry


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Man, you engineer well. Great looking table! Fantastic goodies built in. Sweet! And your pics are great, too.
Got a couple questions about your warning light: 1. wouldn't the vibration from the router severely shorten the life of the lamp? 2. What happens when the lamp does fail? How will you know before it's too late?
I'm old tech. I just unplug the foot switch each time I'm changing bits.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

Hi Gene!
Thank you for the favorable comments!

I was going to add a second bulb, sort of like they have in older traffic lights, (bet you didn't know there were two bulbs behind each color!), But in the brief time I got to work with it so far, the only problem was it unscrewed! LOL!

I also got into looking for the red light before I would look for the foot switch. 
I can reverse the plugs and the foot switch would be out of the circuit, then I could use the toggle switch.

As to being an old tech, that is good, but I'm forgetful. I'm afraid of accidentally stepping on the switch and forgetting to unplug or switch off without a reminder.

Vibration; I think you may be right in that, but these are Christmas light type bulbs, they are inexpensive, after Christmas, and tend to be designed to have lower wattage, about 3 watts. That would mean a filament that "may" last longer. Maybe this one is lasting because of the longer metal strap that is on it's socket acting like a spring of some sort. I also made sure the bulb does not come in contact with anything to directly transmit vibration to the bulb.
I know the vibration problem well. I have an overhead garage door automatic opener that would eat bulbs. I was changing one of the two in it every week. I out boarded an outlet for it and installed a single tube 48" florescent years ago and the vibration problem was solved. 

As to the Freud router vibrating, so far I've been experimenting and doing test cuts, trying my hand at finger joints, and other things, and the vibration seems non existent. Am I doing something wrong? LOL

Cordially,
Gerry


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Gerard_sr;1
As to the Freud router vibrating said:


> Yeah, you probable have it mounted straight.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*LOL* Gene!

Cordially,
Gerry


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Gerry well done my friend looks like a great router table built into your table saw extension.

I plan on doing the exact same thing but I am thinking of mounting the table on the right side of the saw apposed to where you mounted yours. The reasons I have for doing this are:

1) Allows me to use the table saw still for cutting since my saw has a 50" fence. I have the General International 10'' Contractors Table Saw 50'' http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=15249 
2) I will get another fence for the saw this way I will not have to disturb the setup on the router if I need to make a cut or two.
3) Save on shop space as we all need more of it.

Another idea I have about the table stability and sagging will hopefully be addressed by using Baltic Birch plywood. I was thinking of laminating two sheets of 1/2" or 5/8" plywood together. When I glue this together I will make sure the grains run perpendicular for added strength. I will finish the top off with a 1/4" piece of Hardboard (Masonite).

This top will allow me to add the mitre track in without compromising the tabletop's strength. I would welcome others to jump in and share their opinions if its ok with you Gerry?

I have not decided on the plate yet or whether I will fashion my own. I may have to take a trip to the metal scarp yard and have a look. You know what they say one man's garbage is another man's treasure. 

What plate did you end up using?

The other option for me is the router. I like the Triton 3 1/4 HP router but still have not narrowed it down yet. I want a dedicated router for just the table seeing I already have a plunge router. Albeit it is getting old but hell if it ain't broke why fix it right?

As for the light idea I really like that as well but have you thought of using a LED light instead of the old fashion type? It may last longer for you because of the vibration problem but I am sure you will let us know in time how you make it in that respect.

Another question I have is have you consider a dead-Man switch to kill the power in a hurry or is the foot pedal serving that function?

Once again great job and get busy now!


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*Thanks Dan!*

How ya' doin' Dan?
Thanks for the compliment!
That is one sweet saw you have!
Granted mine is a bit less expensive and no where as accurate when it would come to comparing my stock fence with your fence system. I bought mine back in 04' to help in rebuilding my porch.

To answer some of your questions;
I got my plate from Rockler, pre-drilled for my router. It fit pretty good.
I had two pieces of 1/4" aluminum a shade bigger than the plate and I was considering making my own, but I had some trouble with the diagram that came with the router and decided on Rockler's plate instead. Later on I got a newer diagram from Freud and posted it in the "Router Reference" area. I also had some confusion as how to cut a nice round hole in the center. My drill press has a reach of 4-1/16" and to center it on the plate I had I would have needed 4-3/4". Sure I could have made it off center or had the plate cut down, but like I said, the plate from Rockler was an easier way out, ( besides, I asked for it for Christmas from my son and he obliged me! ) 

The light ain't burned out yet. No, I have not been using it every day. The only problem was it "unscrewed" a tiny bit and was out because of that. Led's would be a good idea, but IMHO, I didn't think they would be bright enough. The reason I don't use it more, I DO have a project in the works, is that other requirements take precedence, like my truck loosing oil pressure, or other handy man stuff, (I had to repair two Dirt Devil hand vacs last night, one had a broken field winding wire and the other had a problem with a brass power feed to one of the brushes). 

The "Dead-Man" switch is the foot switch. I find myself accidentally stepping off it at times! LOL! 

Your idea should combat the sagging nicely. I wonder about the hardboard though. Are you sure it won't create another problem when you want to rout out the slot for your track? Hardboard, Masonite, I am told is a "dirty product" and dulls bits very quickly. 

Mine, if you didn't notice, had steel on three perimeters with a piece of angle iron near the end of the table away from the saw. The sagging I did experience was not due to the table warping, it was due to the fact there are only two attachment points on the "sides" of the table and those functioned well with the steel table extension, but seemed to slip a bit with my table extension and weight of the router. The 1/2" sq steel tubing solved that very nicely.

The ONLY problem I did not completely solve yet is that when I am using the saw, the router table top produces some noticeable drag on a longer workpiece. In an attempt to remedy this, I plan to wax and buff the Formica topped extension in the near future.

Yes, you are right, one man's trash may very well be another man's treasure!

Finally, let me point out, this is my "first" router table, so what improvements or "wish i hads" may be incorporated in another one down the road.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Kreg makes a nice accessory for helping you level the table-top Gerry not sure if you are aware of it. Looks like it will do the trick nicely and whats even nicer is the price tag.

See it here:

http://www.kregtool.com/products/prs/product.php?PRODUCT_ID=98


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*I made those ...*

Hi Dan,
I made those out of 1/4" aluminum stock with 1/4-20 stainless threaded bolts.










I saved $20 plus shipping. 
But a truly a noteworthy thing just in case someone reading this can't make their own.

My last problem was the whole table extension, not just the plate.
Take a closer look at *my page*; under the heading "*Plate Leveling*". The last part about "*Table Support Rods*" shown my solution to the whole extension dropping downward.


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