# Above table adjusters... do you lock your router height?



## AlanZ (Aug 21, 2008)

I have a Triton 2.25HP router, and it comes with an above table height adjuster rod.

My question is do folk who adjust from above the table bother to go back under the table to lock the final position, or do you depend on the adjustment mechanism to stay put during the routing?

The Triton is very easy to adjust from below the table, but I'm trying to do more above the table, and want to know if I'm missing an important step by not locking the height with the plunge lock lever.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi AlanZ

You should lock it in place,,,the lift device is just that..
You could make a cam device and get it to work from the side of the table or from the top but most routers are so easy to lock it maybe wast of time.

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AlanZ said:


> I have a Triton 2.25HP router, and it comes with an above table height adjuster rod.
> 
> My question is do folk who adjust from above the table bother to go back under the table to lock the final position, or do you depend on the adjustment mechanism to stay put during the routing?
> 
> The Triton is very easy to adjust from below the table, but I'm trying to do more above the table, and want to know if I'm missing an important step by not locking the height with the plunge lock lever.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Alan..... I always lock mine from below.


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## AlanZ (Aug 21, 2008)

I was thinking the same thing. Given how easy it is to make both gross and fine adjustments from below the table with this router, is there any particular gain to doing it from above the table?

Permit me to think out loud for a moment.

When changing bits, after I unplug from my external power switch, I have to go below the table to turn the power switch off (there's a safety feature that won't let the spindle lock connect if the switch is in the on position). When the bit is changed and adjusted I have to go below the table to turn the switch on, so locking the height is a natural segue from there. The bit change is done above the table.

What I'm wondering is if folk do this on a regular basis for simple height changes:

1. unplug the router from the external power switch off (the router's power switch stays on
2. below the table, unlock the plunge lock
3. above the table, adjust the height
4. below the table lock the plunge lock
5. plug router into external power switch

In some cases, when my hands will be nowhere near the bit (e.g., refining a rounding bit height on some scrap material), it's likely that I'd leave the router plugged into the external switch, but keep the external switch off.

If I have to do any measuring (brass bars, etc.) I always remove the power.

I'd have to give some thought as to a mechanism to do the plunge lock from above or from the side of the table.

So what's the benefit of above the table height adjustments if you need to go below the table to lock it all down?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi AlanZ

The one I HAD mounted in the router table I took care of that error by locking the little plastic window OPEN, then I use a switch on the outside of the router table to turn it off and on..

see link below
http://www.routerforums.com/81187-post7.html

" So what's the benefit of above the table height adjustments if you need to go below the table to lock it all down?"
That's a good question but I didn't design them,,  they are the same way.
Many of them you need to go fishing for the shaft lock device but again I didn't design them....most are not MADE to be used upside down in the router table.. 

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AlanZ said:


> I was thinking the same thing. Given how easy it is to make both gross and fine adjustments from below the table with this router, is there any particular gain to doing it from above the table?
> 
> Permit me to think out loud for a moment.
> 
> ...


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## AlanZ (Aug 21, 2008)

Bob,

There's no modification needed on mine to keep the door open when the router's power switch is on. The switch has to be in the off position for the collet to come above the table and engage the spindle lock.

So, I'm not having any difficulty at all with the switching mechanism. As you can see it's the odd concept of being able to do only one of the adjustments above the table, when all of the other related tasks need to be done below the table.

I can understand the desire for above the table adjustments with some routers as they are not easily adjusted under the table. The Tritons are surprisingly well designed for height adjustments under the table, so that's what prompted my stream of thought.

In any event, there are no problems... I just want to make sure I'm not overlooking something very obvious.


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## Woodnut65 (Oct 11, 2004)

Hi AlanZ: It is better to lock the router to prohibit any movement. No matter what router you use there could always be vibration, which could ruin the cut. The Oak-Park 
type set up allows the router to be removed and placed on the top of the table for bit changes and adjustments. Other tables do not, so people use router lifts, but it's a lift and not a lock, so it should be locked, at the router. My table has a switch on the side and that switch controls two outlets mounted next to the switch. My router is plugged into one of them and the shop vac into the other. Most routers have a power switch that can be left in the on position, or a button to lock it in the on position,ie a D handle router. I always lock the adjustment in because all the routers will vibrate to some degree. Hope this helps.. Woodnut65


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Alan, you have listed things to do in the correct order. The lock lever should always be applied after setting the height. The beauty of setting height from above is that you have one hand to adjust and the other one to measure in comfort. I do hope that Bj was joking when he mentioned by-passing the switch safety device. Make sure that you have removed the spring whilst table mounted. Finally, I like your choice of router.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I was so disappointed with the 2 1/4HP Triton I pulled it out of the router table and put it back in the box......

It will stay in the box and I will sell it off some day...or trade it off maybe.
200.oo dollars down the tube for me.. 

But I guess that's why some like Ford's and some like Chev.'s.


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harrysin said:


> Alan, you have listed things to do in the correct order. The lock lever should always be applied after setting the height. The beauty of setting height from above is that you have one hand to adjust and the other one to measure in comfort. I do hope that Bj was joking when he mentioned by-passing the switch safety device. Make sure that you have removed the spring whilst table mounted. Finally, I like your choice of router.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"But I guess that's why some like Ford's and some like Chev.'s."

Once again Bj you got it in one, as they say, "one's man's meat is another man's poison"


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## HDS (Jun 3, 2009)

*Always best lock to be safe!*

Hi Alan,
seems you have all the advice you need on this, but here's my opinion!

I always lock from under the table, it's not worth risking a failed cut for the sake of a few seconds effort, (Yep been there!).

Besides I find habit building processes much easier to learn and maintain as part of routine than to remember as one-offs!


Best of British,
Henry.


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## Rutabagared (Jun 18, 2009)

Hi Alan,
I don't know if your model is the same as that referenced in the attached article, but the author found that he didn't have to tighten the Triton's motor lock to maintain cutting height because the rack and pinion mechanism stayed put. However, he also stated that the owner's manual recommends using the motor lock for heavy cuts.


Joe


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## Gap_308 (May 2, 2009)

*oops*

When I first started with my Triton, couples months back I wasn't locking it either. But most of my first cuts were always small ones. When I started on the cabinet doors after getting comfortable with it, it would vibrate down some 0.006'' after doing about 5 rails. The bigger bits on hard wood wood vibrate more. Putting the firat door together is when I saw my mistake  . Now it gets locked. Still trying to learn speeds for bits and wood. I wonder if router lifts have locks?


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## HDS (Jun 3, 2009)

Alan,
there is a point to above the table plunge control, if you consider using a collet extension!
As a regular table user I find my Xtreme Xtension invaluable! The above table router lift in this case becomes king.

Your Triton power switch / spindle safety interlock mechanism becomes obsolete with an extension. (If as in my home built table you have a no volt switch to control the power tool from above the table, which is much safer tha fumbling under the table in my opinion).

I strongly feel you still need to lock the router for accuracy of repeated cuts, especially if you are doing a lot of repeat work.

I do find with my Trend T11, It stays solidly in position without the added secutiry of the Plunge lock, but I'm ex RAF so belt and braces every time is my motto.

Henry


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## Michael H (Aug 15, 2009)

*Triton router lock mechanism*

I have the Triton 2-1/4 hp mounted in my table. I love the above the table height adjustment and bit changing. Since I built a dust collection cabinet for my table, I try to stay above the table for most routing. I don't normally use the plunge lock, unless I am routing extremely hardwood, using large bits or doing panel doors. With the plunge spring remove when mounted in a table, I have found that the precision rack and pinion gearing holds the height perfectly in place for edge profiling and other standard routing cuts. I have checked after multiple repeat cuts and so far haven't measured any change in height. Of course, when changing bits, I open the access door, kill the router switch so that the spindle lock will engage.




Rutabagared said:


> Hi Alan,
> I don't know if your model is the same as that referenced in the attached article, but the author found that he didn't have to tighten the Triton's motor lock to maintain cutting height because the rack and pinion mechanism stayed put. However, he also stated that the owner's manual recommends using the motor lock for heavy cuts.
> 
> 
> Joe


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Gap_308 said:


> When I first started with my Triton, couples months back I wasn't locking it either. But most of my first cuts were always small ones. When I started on the cabinet doors after getting comfortable with it, it would vibrate down some 0.006'' after doing about 5 rails. The bigger bits on hard wood wood vibrate more. Putting the firat door together is when I saw my mistake  . Now it gets locked. Still trying to learn speeds for bits and wood. I wonder if router lifts have locks?


Scott,

I know the Incra/Woodpeckers PRL-V2 has a manual carriage brake and my Incra/Jessem Mast-R-Lift has an adjustable automatic one (I compared them before purchasing). I don't know about others.


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