# Downdraft Sanding Table



## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

Hi- I am going to build a downdraft sanding table which will hook up to my dust collector (1.5 hp, 1200 cfm, Jet cannister dust collector). I plan to mount it on my workbench via a couple of clamps in use and want it to be portable to store away when not in use. I'm thinking of making it roughly 18" x 24". It will probably have detachable or fold up wings to aid in dust collection. The dust collection hookup would probably be on one side or maybe the back. Right now, I'm thinking of using either spaced slats or pegbard with the holes drilled out a little for the sanding surface. 

I am looking for any ideas/plans anyone has. I'd be especially interested in hearing from anyone who has built a table, used it for awhile and has an opinion as to what design features are most important. Any ideas you could offer would be most appreciated. 

Thanks in advance.

rstermer


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

There is a simple plan for a portable downdraft table from Woodsmith. You might be able to modify it to your needs.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

rstermer,

Here's a good site on one persons experiments in sizing and designing a downdraft table.

Bill's Cyclone Dust Collection Research - Dust Collection Downdraft Table

I've mentioned Bill before regarding dust collection. I don't take him as the end-all of DC but he has far more research in one place on the topic than I've seen anywhere else. It'd be worth your time to look over the site; he provides the basis for his findings so you can reality-check them yourself.

I'm still digesting some of the ramifications of some of his findings. They seem legit.

Jim


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

CanuckGal said:


> There is a simple plan for a portable downdraft table from Woodsmith. You might be able to modify it to your needs.


Thank you, CanuckGal. That one looks easy to build. I do think wings are necessary to prevent dust escaping, but they would be easy to add.
Regards,
rstermer


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> rstermer,
> 
> Here's a good site on one persons experiments in sizing and designing a downdraft table.
> 
> ...


I've been doing a lot of reading on his website. It is scary stuff and should motivate anyone who thinks dust is something one can disregard to think otherwise. My main takeaways are that the downdraft table can't be too big or the dust will escape and that it is necessary to add baffles on the sides of the box to prevent the dust from escaping, which, if it does, really means it is going to be floating around for awhile.
rstermer


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Check out the build by TRN_Diesel in his gallery @ http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/14017-mobile-sanding-station.html. You might get some ideas from this project.


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

xplorx4 said:


> Check out the build by TRN_Diesel in his gallery @ http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/14017-mobile-sanding-station.html. You might get some ideas from this project.


Thanks for posting that. Diesel does nice work and I learned a lot just looking at his posts. 

A couple of thoughts though. Using a shop vac to collect the dust is almost certainly not effective and even a 600 cfm dust collector is probably too small. If one was going to build the table he built, probably a 1250 cfm dust collector and 6" ducting would be required for it to be effective, the size is quite large and so lots of cfm are required. That is just an estimate because I don't know the exact size, more info can be found here:

Bill's Cyclone Dust Collection Research - Dust Collection Downdraft Table

Also, the design could be improved by the addition of a slanted baffle in the dust collection chamber running from the top front of the table to the back bottom near the collection port.

Finally, my reading indicates it really appears to be necessary to add walls around the outside to help contain the dust. Once the dust gets past the edge of the table, it is not going to be collected by the downdraft table.

Thanks again for the reply, very interesting build!
rstermer


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I've been wanting to build one to sit on top of the router table. Take the router and insert out, put the box on top, turn on the DC and go to town.
The table is 24x36 so that should be big enough for most things I do.


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

AxlMyk said:


> I've been wanting to build one to sit on top of the router table. Take the router and insert out, put the box on top, turn on the DC and go to town.
> The table is 24x36 so that should be big enough for most things I do.


That's a great idea, it appears one needs approx. 800- 1000 cfm to make that work, which is very doable.
rstermer


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I really like that idea, Mike. Brilliant!


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> I really like that idea, Mike. Brilliant!


hi Jim, you can make various auxilliary tables that will fit into the router table by using some 45 degree strips that fit into the router table insert void. i made a table to use the ski jig on and its also great for other small projects.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

hi levon, auxilliary tables would work very well for me, and a ski jig would be a great use. Would you be willing to post a few pictures of your jig including the 45 degree strips (or give me some idea of where it's already posted)? A ski jig is on my project list and I can use all of the help I can get. 

Jim


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Jim , 

i will, but i have to confess, i cheated. before someone recommended the 45 degree angles that fit in the corners of the insert void, i built my table with 1x1 strips that fit nest to the router table ends. hold on and lets see if my battery on the camera is good enough to take a few pictures. maybe it could be of help to someone else too


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

levon said:


> hi Jim ,
> 
> i will, but i have to confess, i cheated. before someone recommended the 45 degree angles that fit in the corners of the insert void, i built my table with 1x1 strips that fit nest to the router table ends. hold on and lets see if my battery on the camera is good enough to take a few pictures. maybe it could be of help to someone else too



hi Jim 

the first 2 pics are a camboard i have to drill out and another template holder, note the oval template insidethe next pics show the auxilliary table and the bottom that fits over the router table.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

sorry it took so long, im slow at pictures and computers. lol


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

im not sure if this will show up, but its the 45 degree pieces you attach to the bottom of auxx. table that fits in the corners of the insert void. excuse my poor paintnet knowledge.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Very nice job levon!


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

thanks Bob, if i listen to you pros long enough somethings bound to sink in.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Thanks for all the pictures, Levon, they really help me in beginning to visualize and the paint picture makes it all clear. Now comes my 20 questions... 

Does the camboard then nest down into the frame?

What size are the blocks in your grid?

I notice a frame around the oval template. Is that a normal part of the design?

What sized cams will you use?

What will you use to keep the cams from turning? If a bolt, then with a T-nut in the bottom or ???

How far are the holes out of center?

I realize that this is highly scalable and there could be many working answers to this but I know it's been done before and figure you have the inside scoop of what works best.

Is the a FAQ here that answers all these questions? 

Well, I didn't quite make it to 20 but it'll probably feel like it if you are kind enough to answer these questions!

See what happens when you do a good deed? :yes4:


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

ok Jim, i had to print out all the questions,lol but i will try 1 x 1.

1. the camboard will be bolted to the aux table. the camboard has nothing to do with the frame holder. the frame on bottom of aux table is what keeps it from moving around on top of router table..

2. they are approx. 1 inch. i used inch strips to lay them off. the pencil marks take up close to 1 inch, so if i were building another i would probably make the strips 15/16

3.the frame arounnd oval template is a separate template holder. it serves the same purpose as the camboard , its faster to build and a lot cheaper, but doesnt work as well. but it does work!

4.cams are 1 1/4"

5.tee nuts on bottom of camboard and counterboore the top of cam and use bolts.

6. about 1/4 inch from outside of cam.

BobJ's gallery has lots of photos of this and many more jigs. 

im very much a novice, but ive learned a lot on this forum.
i will always do my best to help people here, but there are much more knowledgeable people here than me.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Levon,

That makes it crystal clear and easy to see why I should invest time and $$$ in building one instead of using the separate holder. That you provided a picture of it adds a lot because it is the method I was envisioning using, but not any more! 

Thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. Your efforts are greatly appreciated. You may see yourself as a novice but you're way ahead of me!

Jim


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> Levon,
> 
> That makes it crystal clear and easy to see why I should invest time and $$$ in building one instead of using the separate holder. That you provided a picture of it adds a lot because it is the method I was envisioning using, but not any more!
> 
> ...


Ditto!
rstermer


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

thanks fellas, i try to help people as much as i can. there are so many people here very willing and have so much expertise. im not here yet but try to help as much as i can.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Since I mentioned it and needed one, I built this downdraft table for the router table. I'll try it tomorrow.
A 1x4 frame with a couple stringers and a ply insert to help spread the suction around.
Covered it with chicken wire and carpet non-slip pad.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

i like that Mike. i have a couple of questions. is there a port on it that i cant see for the dc and is there a reason you stopped the non slip material away from the end? im not up to date with how to make a sanding table. after looking at it a 2nd time, im wondering if your port is under the plywood and going down through where the router plate was?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Mike,

Ditto on levon's questions. Also, is the chicken wire to keep the chickens *in* or *out*? :jester:


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

The DC draws from underneath. I took the router and insert out of the table.
The pad on the wire was a piece I had laying around. I'll cut one to fit today.
I did a little sanding on it last night with a piece of scrap. It seemed to work OK.
The chicken wire keeps the chickens in the table. I only let them out in the evening.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Mike,

i guess the sawdust is an inexpensive option for feeding your chickens.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Trouble is, it gets stuck in their feathers.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

*Finish for your table*

Mike,

Be sure to properly finish your table. I suggest a high gloss, solvent-based poly or a marine spar varnish, polished with rottenstone.

After all, you don't want to have to remove the screen to "scoop the poop". You could even give it a hosing down with a water-clorox mix if necessary.

Now cleaning out your DC filter is a job better left for others.

..or should we rename it from a DC to ???? :jester:

>>Visualizing the look in the eyes of chickens walking on *that* with the fan running!<<


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I had a chance to use the sanding table, and it worked quite well. I didn't notice any dust escaping the edges. A couple more stringers in it for supporting the workpiece will help it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

I don't have a Downdraft Sanding Table but I use a sand blasting cabinet I made along time go...I hate the sanding dust all over the shop not to say anything about how unsafe the dust is...

============


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

That's a great idea, Bob. There's obviously no need for tornado-volume air movement as long as all of the air goes through your filter before you breathe it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

Thanks . it's bit funky but it works,,the little red devil vac on the side sucks up all the dust and with the little fan inside the cabinet it helps pull the dust out..


Some time I remove the sand but most of the it's in the bottom of the cabinet ..

I was going to buy a cabinet from HF along time ago and I said no I'm just going to make one...with a bigger window but now it has two jobs to do..some times the wood I use now and then it real nasty to take in..MDF is one of them, I wish it was bigger sometimes but it works on almost all wood parts..


===========


BigJimAK said:


> That's a great idea, Bob. There's obviously no need for tornado-volume air movement as long as all of the air goes through your filter before you breathe it.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Bob,

If you wish to be able to handle longer stock in there, all you'd need to do is to build adjustable "garage doors" for the sides. The top of the attached sketch would be the side of your cabinet and the bottom item the "garage door".

The door could be MDF with sliding slots cut in it. The cabinet holes would have a T-nut on the inside and a bolt and star-handle to hold in position. For additional air-blockage, the bottom inch or two of the door could be made out of old paintbrush(s) bristles or other suitable stock you had around. It could be one door or multiple doors; as long as the air is passing inward at a reasonable speed, no dust can escape. Doors on each side of the cabinet would let you slide the board as needed. Then you could handle any board that would fit through the garage door without giving up dedicated shop space.

You may or may not want more air volume but certainly no tornado!

Just a thought, Mr. Jigs.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

Thanks,,but it has two jobs to do, the main one is the sand blaster ,that stuff will go out a hole the size of 1/4" bolt so to say it needs to be air tight , and as I'm sure you know the sand can be a real mess if it leaks out anywhere from the cabinet  ,,,,, I use silicon and nut shell sand the norm and if it gets on any tool it going to cut into it..not to say anything of the dust it puts off..real nasty stuff if it's not kept in the cabinet and in the vac.bag.. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93608
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BigJimAK said:


> Bob,
> 
> If you wish to be able to handle longer stock in there, all you'd need to do is to build adjustable "garage doors" for the sides. The top of the attached sketch would be the side of your cabinet and the bottom item the "garage door".
> 
> ...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

There always has to be a wrinkle, eh? <g>


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## sclaxton (Aug 8, 2009)

Thanks for the link to the sanding table. I am going to make one.


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

Hi Bob- Nice cabinet! Where did you find the armholes?
rstermer


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