# Building Harry's Simple Circle Jig.



## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

After looking at Harry's circle jig I have decided to build his design. I need to cut holes for cup holders in the poker table top or in the rail, and what better jig then having an adjustable jig. I have different sizes of cup holders available for my clients. I managed to get the base done today. I thought I had more stainless rod in the shop but I used it on the last jig. 

The plan is to drill a very small pivot hole all the way through the plastic, then on the bottom drill out a 1/4" hole but not penetrate through the top. The small hole in the top will be used to measure from the center pivot pin to the outer edge of the router bit so I know what size to cut the holes. Ideally would be to mill a grove and install a small stainless ruler in the face of the plastic.

Next I will knul the pivot pin so that I can press the pin into the pivot hole while I am waiting for the stainless rod.

Thanks Harry for the great jig idea...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

It's looking very professional Keith. By drilling and tapping several pivot holes it will become very versatile, covering a wide range of radii.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

harrysin said:


> It's looking very professional Keith. By drilling and tapping several pivot holes it will become very versatile, covering a wide range of radii.


Harry I do know what you mean as it will increase the range beyond what the rods will allow, but for my needs the adjustment I will have will cover the radius I will use.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Keith, I visited your web site............ very nice tables!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Keith,

How did you attach the cross bar to the jig base?

just asking in case you found a glue that will work on HDPE?


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Keith,
> 
> How did you attach the cross bar to the jig base?
> 
> just asking in case you found a glue that will work on HDPE?


Hi James,

I wish I could say I glued it but I instead screwed the two pieces together...


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Well I tried out the new jig today. I did not punch through the plywood as I did not have the pivot hole anchored down but as you can see the jig work as it was intended. Using a 1/2 bit the smallest opening is 3-1/4" and the largest opening is 12". This is perfect for my needs as I can use 1/4" bit if I need to go smaller.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

A very neat jig and solution. I would have used bolts and threaded metal dowels to join the base to the crossbar, but no worries. Will my wife miss her cutting board? Nice grooves.


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

You really did that jig up nice, very sweet job!


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Mike Wingate said:


> A very neat jig and solution. I would have used bolts and treadded metal dowels to join the base to the crossbar, but no worries. Will my wife miss her cutting board? Nice grooves.


Mike the jig is very solid. I used a screw that takes a big bit with a small pilot hole. Your right in the material is used for cutting boards. We buy the material in sheets and make cutting boards. The material was waste.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Jack Wilson said:


> You really did that jig up nice, very sweet job!


Thanks Jack, because it will get used a lot I decided to do it right...


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Why no fine adjuster between the router and the end block? You could have spacer blocks to take up the slack. What dia is the main slot please? Great idea.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Did you cut the hole with the router on the guide bars?


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Mike Wingate said:


> Did you cut the hole with the router on the guide bars?


Hi Mike,

The slot is 1"-1/8" x 7". I had thought of cutting the slot using the rails and router then decided against it. I ended up using a Forstner bit and drill press with a micro adjustment vise and cut a series of holes.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Mike Wingate said:


> Why no fine adjuster between the router and the end block? You could have spacer blocks to take up the slack. What dia is the main slot please? Great idea.


Mike,

Because of how I am using the jig I am only cutting a few different size holes, the jig fits my needs to cut cup holders in the poker table top. I made up a few spacer for each size hole and place the spacer between the rail block and router. When the router is up against the spacer I tighten the set screws remove the spacer and cut holes to that size. I will cut 10 holes at a time...


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Thanks for the answers. too late! I mounted the router on the jig and used 3 different bits to cut the slot. No problems. Fitted the expanding screw fixture and cut and slotted a 6mm bolt to fit as the pivot point.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Mike Wingate said:


> Thanks for the answers. too late! I mounted the router on the jig and used 3 different bits to cut the slot. No problems. Fitted the expanding screw fixture and cut and slotted a 6mm bolt to fit as the pivot point.


Mike,

Now look what I started... The HDPE sure makes nice jigs and easy to work with. Looks great...


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

The cutting boards are great, they are available in black also. It is really nice to work with, drills well, planes beautifully and routes well if the speed is reduced. Thanks for the idea.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Here is a high def video of the jig in action. I am cutting out a cup holder raised ring. These rings are installed around the cup holders. The rings are 1/4" thick and 1/4" foam is laid on the table and cut to fit around the rings. The Speed Cloth is install over the entire table pulled tight then the cloth is cut and folded into the hole then stapled. Next the cup holder is installed.

Jig Video, 

YouTube - ‪PokerTableRouter101's Channel‬‏

The finish table would look like this with installed cup holders,


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

It works well. Question, how do you ensure that the cenre disc does not break free and you dig into the sides. I left 2 little penninsulars to keep things together, then clean up the bits. So what do you reccemend. A longer pin into a sub waste base.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Mike Wingate said:


> It works well. Question, how do you ensure that the cenre disc does not break free and you dig into the sides. I left 2 little penninsulars to keep things together, then clean up the bits.


Hi Mike

I sometimes use the Trend Router Compass (which is quite similar in many ways) to rout porthole openings into doors. I generally only go in about 1 in with the first cutter, then I remove the router and jig and complete the cut with a jigsaw and top bearing template trimmer like these. Possibly a slightly different technique as particle core doors are 44 to 54mm thick.

Regards

Phil


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Once you have the Jasper jig you will hang all the other cir,jigs on the wall..
With the jasper you don't need to bolt the router to the jig,with the aid of the brass guide.

Amazon.com: Jasper Circle Jig 200 & 400 Combo Pack: Home Improvement

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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Bob

I'm curious as to how you could do that with the large diameter (12 to 18in) holes that I use my jig for. The Jasper Tools web site doesn't have any videos, but I did found this one on YouTube which shows a Jasper jig being used to produce a smaller diameter hole in one go - something the Trend jig can also do - but I reckon you'd still need to do large diameter holes in two goes. Or is there a jig which works on a different principle? Using two routers isn't a problem for me as my installation kit includes a 1/2in plunge router and an 8mm one, but the one downside of the Trend is that it was designed for the smaller 8mm and 1/4in routers (e.g. Trend T4/T5, Perles OF-808, Virutex FR277/FR278 and deWalt DW613/DW615, etc). I'd be interested in a jig which cut large diameter holes in one but unless I've got it wrong the Jasper can't do that, either. 

BTW the Trend jig didn't cost me a bean; it was given to me at the end of a job so it owes me nothing :dance3:

Regards

Phil


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I will stick a backing piece to maximize accuracy. Watching Jasper jig vids on youtube, it is fast but inviting dig ins without the backing piece and the Jig instructions advocate the use of one.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Mike Wingate said:


> It works well. Question, how do you ensure that the cenre disc does not break free and you dig into the sides. I left 2 little penninsulars to keep things together, then clean up the bits. So what do you reccemend. A longer pin into a sub waste base.


Two options... You could use thin carpet tape to secure the center and in my case the outer ring. I used a brad nail gun and secured the center and the ring to cut out the ring. The rings I am cutting will never be seen so the nail holes are not a problem. Where the wood will be seen I would use carpet tape to secure to pivot hole. Did you watch the video?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Phil

The Jasper will do 18-3/16-inches, once I get over that I use the Rockler jig..
Rockler Ellipse/Circle Router Jig - Rockler Woodworking Tools

That is setup is the same with the brass guide, no need to bolt the router to the jig,just drop it on and cut the cir../oval

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Phil P said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> I'm curious as to how you could do that with the large diameter (12 to 18in) holes that I use my jig for. The Jasper Tools web site doesn't have any videos, but I did found this one on YouTube which shows a Jasper jig being used to produce a smaller diameter hole in one go - something the Trend jig can also do - but I reckon you'd still need to do large diameter holes in two goes. Or is there a jig which works on a different principle? Using two routers isn't a problem for me as my installation kit includes a 1/2in plunge router and an 8mm one, but the one downside of the Trend is that it was designed for the smaller 8mm and 1/4in routers (e.g. Trend T4/T5, Perles OF-808, Virutex FR277/FR278 and deWalt DW613/DW615, etc). I'd be interested in a jig which cut large diameter holes in one but unless I've got it wrong the Jasper can't do that, either.
> 
> ...


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I think that that is one well filmed routing proceedure. Our jigs could be twins. I have not cut any thin stock yet, just tried a couple of circles and arcs in 20mm MDF. A sacrificial base will do the job. Hot glue is a favorite of mine, carpet tape can be too sticky. Great jig, usage and instructions guys. This is what I like about this site.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

For anyone who wants to build the jig the base is 12" x 8" x 1/2" and rod support is 6" x 1.5" x 3/4". The rods are 5/16". The cutout in the center is 1-3/16" x 7". I used a forstner bit. I believe Mike used the rails and router to cut his opening. The pivot pin is 1/4" and made to be removed. As you can see the three screws were use to anchor the rod support. The distance between rods will be determined by your router.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Phil
> 
> The Jasper will do 18-3/16-inches, once I get over that I use the Rockler jig..
> Rockler Ellipse/Circle Router Jig - Rockler Woodworking Tools
> ...


How does the jig maintain center once the bit punch's through and the router bit approaches total cut out? Seems to me the user would have to be very careful as with the jig I made I secure the center pivot.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Watching the videos on you tube, people either don't care about catching the edges, or are very careful and lucky. I will stick with the backing boards. I am not keen on anything metallic in the routing area.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

AzViper said:


> How does the jig maintain center once the bit punch's through and the router bit approaches total cut out? Seems to me the user would have to be very careful as with the jig I made I secure the center pivot.


Hi Keith - You're right of course. Unless the area containing the pivot hole is stabilized someway, it will shift at the last moment of cut. I just use the Jasper 400. Much smaller circles, and I can secure it usually with carpet tape. On some thicker plastics I have secured the pivot portion with countersunk flat head screws, being very careful to avoid the path of the bit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Keith

That's the down fall with almost all cir.jigs, the only one that works without a pivot point is the Trend cir.jig, it can do 1/2" to ~ with the right rods.

YouTube - ‪Trend Pivot Frame Jig‬‏
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AzViper said:


> How does the jig maintain center once the bit punch's through and the router bit approaches total cut out? Seems to me the user would have to be very careful as with the jig I made I secure the center pivot.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Keith
> 
> That's the down fall with almost all cir.jigs, the only one that works without a pivot point is the Trend cir.jig, it can do 1/2" to ~ with the right rods.
> 
> ...


Hi Bob, This jig would not work for my needs, but at some point another jig was used to make the template in which this circle jig rotate on.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Keith

" but at some point another jig was used to make the template in which this circle jig rotate on. "
Not at all the same jig will do it all, it can be use just like a standard cir. jig..that's the neat part of the Trend jig..in that way it's just like your cir.jig..but it can be use in so many ways not just one.. 

See video.. 
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AzViper said:


> Hi Bob, This jig would not work for my needs, but at some point another jig was used to make the template in which this circle jig rotate on.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I haven't got a pivot jig but it looks to me like the center piece still would need to be secured on a through cut. I can't see where it wouldn't kick out at the last moment of cut.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

All that's needed is just a longer pivot pin into the sub base.  the tape will hold the top cut part in place and will come out very clean and true..
Plus by using a downcut 1/4" bit it will pack the chips in to the slot and help hold the parts in place..
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jschaben said:


> I haven't got a pivot jig but it looks to me like the center piece still would need to be secured on a through cut. I can't see where it wouldn't kick out at the last moment of cut.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This shot shows how I do it. A long pivot pin goes through the material and into the sacrificial bench top. The outside of the material is held in place on the sacrificial bench top by pinning pieces of scrap around the outside and the pin holds the cut-out in place. For a thick door, it can be flipped over and routed from the opposite side, the pin ensuring the same position.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Doh, hadn't thought about the longer pivot pin:wacko:
I'm thinking the carpet tape should work for the pivot jig where the point of the pivot jig is not having to require a center pivot and marking up the resulting disc


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Doh, hadn't thought about the longer pivot pin:wacko:
> I'm thinking the carpet tape should work for the pivot jig where the point of the pivot jig is not having to require a center pivot and marking up the resulting disc


Well I had thought of a longer pivot pin but in my case in making these rings I either have to use carpet tape, hot glue, or or nails to secure the ring for the final cut. In my case the nails work best as I will cut the outer ring on a few dozen rings then make the adjustment to cut the inner cut.


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## pmiller010 (Jul 23, 2011)

great jig looks simple and inexpensive. Phil


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## Dal300 (Jul 14, 2011)

I've made holding tanks for recreational vehicles using HDPE. I usually weld it with a hot air plastic welder and a scrap piece of the same material. To install fittings I have a 3 HP router that takes a 'spin weld' bit that actually spins the fitting into the plastic and melts the two pieces together by heat from friction.



AzViper said:


> Hi James,
> 
> I wish I could say I glued it but I instead screwed the two pieces together...


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Dal300 said:


> I've made holding tanks for recreational vehicles using HDPE. I usually weld it with a hot air plastic welder and a scrap piece of the same material. To install fittings I have a 3 HP router that takes a 'spin weld' bit that actually spins the fitting into the plastic and melts the two pieces together by heat from friction.


Thanks for the idea. I will keep this idea in the back of my mine...


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Not sure if I had ever posted this link to the circle router jig in action... The video is in HD if you would like to expand it...

PokerTableRouter101's Channel - YouTube


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Keith

Nice video, well done 

Here's one for the Jasper jig 

Jasper Circle Jig - YouTube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6jMBeM0WBw&NR=1

Router Accessories, Circle Guides, Router Base Plates, Houston, TX Butterfly Template

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&v=193USEiGK6Y

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AzViper said:


> Not sure if I had ever posted this link to the circle router jig in action... The video is in HD if you would like to expand it...
> 
> PokerTableRouter101's Channel - YouTube


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

AzViper said:


> Not sure if I had ever posted this link to the circle router jig in action... The video is in HD if you would like to expand it...
> 
> PokerTableRouter101's Channel - YouTube


Keith,
Nice video, and as BJ said well done! I do have one question. How did you make the adjustment for the second cut without measuring? Did you have stops installed on the rods? I'm not sure if there was sound because I could only watch, not listen, so if you stated something in the video about it, I will have to watch it again later.

Thanks!


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

darrink said:


> Keith,
> Nice video, and as BJ said well done! I do have one question. How did you make the adjustment for the second cut without measuring? Did you have stops installed on the rods? I'm not sure if there was sound because I could only watch, not listen, so if you stated something in the video about it, I will have to watch it again later.
> 
> Thanks!


Darrin,

I only use a few different size cup holders, I had placed a file grove in the rod to use to make adjustments. I had run a few test runs to get the correct sizes to fit the cup holders.

In the video you will see there was a error. In the video you will see that during the second cut the center pivot point came out once I removed the router. The center was nailed down but the nails had nearly penetrated the 1/4" ply. I was lucky that the center stayed centered until I was finished. I now have the pressure set to seat the nails not as deep.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Keith
> 
> Nice video, well done
> 
> ...


Hi Bob,

Question in regards to the Jasper. I noticed that the plug fell completely out. What kept the center pivot from moving as you neared the finish? It would appear to me your cutting your center pivot away and on the final cut as you get near to the plug dropping out that the center pivot is lost resulting in a circle cutout not being nearly perfect.

I could understand if the pin extended beyond the plywood and into another piece of wood below but the plug drop out.


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## AzViper (Apr 18, 2011)

Well after building the circle jig I decided not to place cup holders in my latest build. This table is for myself. I finished the bottom today by spraying stain and poly. After many coats of poly and sanding between coats the bottom is done. Next the custom cloth and padded rail will be done next weekend if I have some free time. The detail in the cloth is outstanding. The process of a cloth like this is called Dye Sublimation, simply put “solid dye particles being changed into gas using heat and pressure, which then bond with any Polymers present, and then change back into a solid.” You do not feel anything on the cloth as the colors are embedded into the cloth.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I have been using mine for more mundane tasks. Holes and discs for my new drill table. I have more than a few sanding drums, the dust drops into the back of the drawer. The drawer lifts the table clear of the height crank.


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