# Angled clock



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Clocks are one of the most asked about projects on the forums. This is a simple but interesting clock you can build with a box joint jig. Photo 1 shows cutting the 60º push block on a miter saw. The saw is set to 30º and cuts are made at both ends with this angle. When added together they will equal 60º. Photo 2 shows the block after it has been run past the bit on both sides, then moved over the fence and run up for a clearance cut. Now we are ready to cut the angles. Note: at this point you can cut the same angles on your work pieces. I did not but the belt sander will make short work of them. The pieces in the photos have already been cut but show the starting position for each series of cuts. Photo 3 shows the starting position for the first cut. Once you have pushed the wood past the bit it is lifted, the push block pulled back, the slot placed over the fence and repeated until all cuts are made as shown in Photo 4. Photo 5 shows a piece of 1 x 2" that has been run past the bit, reversed 180º and clamped on the fence. This is required for spacing the 1st cut on the bottom piece. Photo 6 shows the starting position, note that the push block has been reversed for the bottom piece. After the 1st pass has been made the spacer block is removed and the push stick set onto the fence, the wood is slid against the fence for the second cut. You continue as before making a cut, repositioning and repeating until all cuts are made. Photo 7 shows how the pieces fit. Note the undersized finger on the end. I will trim this off flush on my table saw. Tomorrow I will post the final photos of the process.

Knowing somebody will ask; the small piece of wood on the router table is covering one of the Vac-u-plate ports. Virtually all the saw dust created in this process was captured through the modified port hole in the jig which can be seen in photo 5.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I guess that my post this morning titled FOR MIKE moderation team is now superfluous. Well done, only a few hours late. I look forward to seeing the finished clock tomorrow. Tell me Mike, is the spacer fence glued to your table, but there doesn't seem to be a screw in the countersunk hole shown in shot #5.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Harry, screws are inserted into the two right side holes when using this jig on an Oak Park table for making box joints.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I speak with you about the Queensland walnut and mountain Ash I bought and you go out and gazump me.......

Great job, Mike..

I hope this weekend is fair weather and the new toys arrive.


James


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

What is a Gazump?

They say the best laid mice are plans of men or something like that... and I hit a bump in the road. When I bought the clock mechanism for this project it was for a desk top. Now it will be on Sue's bed side tray table and needs to be larger so she will be able to read it at a further distance. I have to buy a new mechanism tomorrow so I can finish the clock. Cutting the mounting hole is the next step. Oops! Mean while here is a photo of the replacement knobs I use on my jigs. They are much easier on the fingers than wing nuts.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Can you see why I asked the question Mike?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

Why do you only have two holes....? to hold it down in place..


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harrysin said:


> Can yo see why I asked the question Mike?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Harry, all the jigs I have seen have 4 holes but only the two right hand holes are used for making box joints or dovetail cuts. And yes I understand why you asked. I will query Rick on this.


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## HDS (Jun 3, 2009)

Gazump in England means:
To beat somebody to something, steal an idea and act on it ahead of the person who's idea it was, or outbid someone in a deal or auction!
Does it mean the same in Oz, JW?

All the best,
Henners.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Harry & Mike,

My 1/8" and 1/4" box joint jigs from Oak Park have only two holes just like Harry's.

The 3/8" jig is the only one with 4 holes.
I've wondered about that but never asked.

Thanks, Mike, good job. It was worth the wait. I'm looking forward to tomorrow. <grin>



harrysin said:


> Can yo see why I asked the question Mike?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi _Barb

*Just a butt in post the 3/8" jig can be used for dovetails,,,but once you have the holes drilled for it ,go ahead and drill the other jigs as well ,4 screws is always better than 2 ,, I always use 4 holes,2 screws in the tee track and 2 drilled in the top, that way it's always dead on...



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*_


nikki1492 said:


> Harry & Mike,
> 
> My 1/8" and 1/4" box joint jigs from Oak Park have only two holes just like Harry's.
> 
> ...


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

HDS said:


> Gazump in England means:
> To beat somebody to something, steal an idea and act on it ahead of the person who's idea it was, or outbid someone in a deal or auction!
> Does it mean the same in Oz, JW?
> 
> ...


Hi, Yes this is what I meant...

My comment to Mike was purely in jest as he and I were talking about this clock last week-end and I was telling Mike that I had gone to a specialist wood supplier and bought some contrasting timbers.

Mike's post was a great description of how to prepare the jig as well as the clock.

Thanks to Mikes help, I have the same jig from Oak Park and hope to use it this weekend.

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

the 3/8 jig has 4 holes as it is used on the Oak Park Table to cut dovetails as well.

There are holes set in the table for this purpose.

James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> HI Harry
> 
> Why do you only have two holes....? to hold it down in place..
> 
> ...


You're question should be aimed at Rick. Bj, by the way it's only the 1/4" that has two holes,which shows that it is the only size that I've used so far!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> You're question should be aimed at Rick. Bj, by the way it's only the 1/4" that has two holes,which shows that it is the only size that I've used so far!


Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue

Harry,

If you check at Oak-park.com, both the 1/4 and 1/2' spacers have the two holes.

Do you have all 3 spacers or only the 1/4 and 3/8"?

James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I answered you earlier James but it seems to have vanished. I thought that I had all three fences but it appears that I only have the 1/4" with two holes and the 3/8" with four holes.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, I love the last shot in your edited post, not only is the hinge cleverly made, but you have actually shown SAW DUST!


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Hey bj, firstly I meant to say the 1/4" and 1/2" jigs had only two holes. Wasn't thinking that but did type it.
So I'll drill a 1/4" hole in the other corners of those jigs and in my table. OK... I understand the more the merrier and better. Like... if 1 works 2 will work better.<grin>

I had to replace the bolts when I installed the jig. The table I bought from MLCS is 1 inch thick then add the height of the jig. The bolt would show through the bottom but I couldn't get the wing nut on.

One question.... why do you need to have the 3/8" jig bolted down with 4 bolts for the dovetail? Can you do the dovetail on the other two jigs? I haven't gotten that far yet. I'm still working on box joints and moving right along. (Life kinda gets in the way.)

Thanks for the help and the insight. I really do appreciate any and all input so I can work smarter -- not harder. <very big grin>




bobj3 said:


> Hi _Barb
> 
> *Just a butt in post the 3/8" jig can be used for dovetails,,,but once you have the holes drilled for it ,go ahead and drill the other jigs as well ,4 screws is always better than 2 ,, I always use 4 holes,2 screws in the tee track and 2 drilled in the top, that way it's always dead on...
> ==========
> *_


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Barb

this should help but the VHS/DVD is better on this one 
Router Workshop: boxjoints


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nikki1492 said:


> Hey bj, firstly I meant to say the 1/4" and 1/2" jigs had only two holes. Wasn't thinking that but did type it.
> So I'll drill a 1/4" hole in the other corners of those jigs and in my table. OK... I understand the more the merrier and better. Like... if 1 works 2 will work better.<grin>
> 
> I had to replace the bolts when I installed the jig. The table I bought from MLCS is 1 inch thick then add the height of the jig. The bolt would show through the bottom but I couldn't get the wing nut on.
> ...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

You only need to use 2 bolts to hold the spacer fences in place. I have all three as well. The 1/4", 1/2" only have 2 bolt holes and the 3/8" has the 4 bolt holes. The purpose is for dovetail work. If you can find the right videos from RWS, it shows the why and how.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*I made a tee-pee?*

Hi Mike,

thanks to you post, I was able to go out today and make a start on the clock.

I used some Golden Wattle I bought for a box kit earlier this month.


James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Looking good James, how many test pieces did you have to make and don't forget to keep a sample to ensure a quick set-up next time.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Looking good James, how many test pieces did you have to make and don't forget to keep a sample to ensure a quick set-up next time.


Not too many actually, Harry.

I cut box joints in old fence palings, cut my backer block and the off set block and that was about it.

PS my off set block is about 4ft long so that I can clamp it in place...:haha:

It was about 18 degrees C here today with a clear blue sky ( not bad for the middle of winter), so I had a nice day out in the sun.

James


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Good on you, James. It's looking really good.

A picture of the finished clock would be great.

Barb


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

nikki1492 said:


> Good on you, James. It's looking really good.
> 
> A picture of the finished clock would be great.
> 
> Barb


Hi Barb,

I hope to get it finished next week-end. (Here in Sydney I have Monday off for a Bank Holiday)

Harry and I had deep and meaningful discussions on the best way to cut the hole for the clock unit so next I will be learning to rout a 70mm hole. ha ha.

James


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

I'll be watching for posts with photos, James. I hope you still have good weather for the event. 

I have not ordered my clock parts so I need to wait before cutting the clock hole.

Barb





jw2170 said:


> Hi Barb,
> 
> I hope to get it finished next week-end. (Here in Sydney I have Monday off for a Bank Holiday)
> 
> ...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Barb, you will need to cut the clock hole before you glue up your clock stand. All the clock kits offer information on the size of the mounting hole as well as the OD of the clock. To make it easy for Sue to read the clock I changed from the 1" clock I planned on using to one that is 2-3/4" OD. This clock requires a 2-3/8" mounting hole. I went the easy way by using a 2-3/8" hole saw. This new Ridgid saw claims to cut 50% faster than other brand saws. I'm not sure about the time savings but I can tell you it cut a very clean hole with almost no chatter while I was holding the wood. (Photo 1) Another way to make the hole is with a circle cutter. BJ has tried many and recommends this one from Grizzly. (Photo 2) After looking around I agree with him that this is the best tool I found and it is priced at $18 plus shipping. Once you have the hole cut you will need to sand to remove any fuzz around the opening. I used a drum sander in my hand for this light touch up. (Photo 3)


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Thanks for all the info and photos, Mike. 

Why did I think the clock hole was not a complete hole but a routed out circle? Where did I get the notion to buy a dado clean out bit? The complete hole makes it a lot easier! (One of these days I'll remember.)

I have several of the hole drilling thingies. I'll measure them and see if there are any clock measurements that match. I was going to use the larger diameter clocks anyway. Personally I would like to see what time it is from across the room.

So if I wanted to increase the size of the clock, I would increase the width by 3/8" + 3/8" or 3/4" to keep the holes and the pegs(?) proper..... right?

BJ, you're so right about drilling all four holes in the table for the 3/8" jig. I got two more bolts and drilled the holes when I had the jig set perfectly (after using the 'fine adjusting tool'. I love that!  ). I kept changing the jig out and reinstalling it...... right on every time.

How's it going, James. Did you get to work on the clock on Monday? If you did I'm ready to see some pictures of it all. 

I'm sorry, all. I just can't get my head wrapped around the woodworking terms. But I do keep trying.... and you all have been so great understanding what I mean. Thank you all for your patience and tolerance. (And to think I started out wanting to build the table/chair)... <very big grin>



Mike said:


> Barb, you will need to cut the clock hole before you glue up your clock stand. All the clock kits offer information on the size of the mounting hole as well as the OD of the clock.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Barb

You can make your clock(s) any size you want,,here's some parts I have on hand to make clocks...

I like the bigger ones so I can see them also...

Here's a link that I get my clock parts from,, at great prices,plus you will see a mickey mouse clock I made after I got back from Las Vegas, with one buck in my pocket so you can see you can make anything into a clock and I said that's the last time I will go to Las Wages,,the clock is a to remind me of that.... 

eBay Seller: modclock: Crafts, Collectibles items on eBay.com

2" Designer Watch Type Clock Insert - Premium Quality - eBay (item 350220598221 end time Jul-31-09 12:43:45 PDT)

2-1/16" Round Quartz Alarm Clock Movement/w Hands - eBay (item 350233144781 end time Aug-27-09 22:43:42 PDT)

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nikki1492 said:


> Thanks for all the info and photos, Mike.
> 
> Why did I think the clock hole was not a complete hole but a routed out circle? Where did I get the notion to buy a dado clean out bit? The complete hole makes it a lot easier! (One of these days I'll remember.)
> 
> ...


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Wow, BJ, what a great inventory you've got. I hope to someday have a good inventory of things like that plus some really nice woods. I'll build it little by little but I've got to get more hands on experience especially with a router.

I have done many of the tasks independently but have not been able to put it all together when doing a project. I know it will all come together eventually but I'm very impatient..... thus frustration..... not good. But it will get better.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Barb

Thanks,, I have used 2/3 of the order I got from the eBay seller and that's what you see left in the snapshot,,,I put out 90.00 bucks for the 1st order so you can see a big inventory is not a big deal when you get the stock off eBay..

Clocks are fun and are easy and cheap to make with scrap wood from the shop and the router 

The picture below is off the ebay web site,,,it's great little clock, made for about 10.oo bucks and a great Xmax.gift..


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nikki1492 said:


> Wow, BJ, what a great inventory you've got. I hope to someday have a good inventory of things like that plus some really nice woods. I'll build it little by little but I've got to get more hands on experience especially with a router.
> 
> I have done many of the tasks independently but have not been able to put it all together when doing a project. I know it will all come together eventually but I'm very impatient..... thus frustration..... not good. But it will get better.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Wow...... I've not spent much time at the ebay site but me thinks I'd better start. 

Do you have any particular sellers that you trust more than others?

I would love to make a collection of small clocks for myself. And what a terrific gift. And appropriate for most occasions. 

And nice to have a few made in reserve for that gift you forgot about. 



bobj3 said:


> Hi Barb
> 
> Thanks,, I have used 2/3 of the order I got from the eBay seller and that's what you see left in the snapshot,,,I put out 90.00 bucks for the 1st order so you can see a big inventory is not a big deal when you get the stock off eBay..
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Barb

The one below I trust,,but most of the time I used the feed back , if it's about 99% good I will try it,but you know what they say about ebay ,,,buyer beware..but the feed back is what I use and I will not buy from anyone selling less than 200 items, sold and shipped..

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-Designer-Watc...in_0?hash=item518b984491&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14

2-1/2" Watch Type Clock Insert -Premium - Brass & Glass - eBay (item 350234309465 end time Aug-30-09 11:04:37 PDT)


Barb,,clocks makes a great gifts,,you can't go wrong with a desk clock and pen the norm,,for the main gift and then if you forget some one you can one more easy...for 150.oo bucks you have all your shopping done for this year, most have tons of stuff but the little clock is always just right,it fits all so to speak..from 6 to 80 the norm..as you can see I'm pushing clocks this year  


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nikki1492 said:


> Wow...... I've not spent much time at the ebay site but me thinks I'd better start.
> 
> Do you have any particular sellers that you trust more than others?
> 
> ...


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

How could anyone think that you're pushing clocks this year? <tee hee>

I was just looking at the pages you gave the links to. I was impressed with the 2 year warranty and the battery included.

Have you seen the hand blown glass barometer that you put colored water in? I love it! That would be a great one to start my clock collection.... Collection restricted to only clocks that I make... I'll just make one for myself. I'll also try to do something different with the router on each one.

I'm sure I'll make the angled box joint clocks for this year. I like unique but not weird. 

Thanks.

Barb



bobj3 said:


> Hi Barb
> 
> The one below I trust,,but most of the time I used the feed back , if it's about 99% good I will try it,but you know what they say about ebay ,,,buyer beware..but the feed back is what I use and I will not buy from anyone selling less than 200 items, sold and shipped..
> 
> ...


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

BJ, I was just re-reading your last few posts because I always miss something the first time through.

Your Las Vegas clock is a great reminder.... I'm surprised you didn't put that last dollar bill on there as well. 

Did you also make the shelf it is sitting on? How did you do that besides very carefully??? <cheesy grin>

Barb


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Barb

Thanks

" last dollar bill " well I did in away I drilled a hole in the chip and put it on the board..

"shelf it is sitting on?" no that's a great dollar fine from a garage sale,made in Mexico I think..

===



nikki1492 said:


> BJ, I was just re-reading your last few posts because I always miss something the first time through.
> 
> Your Las Vegas clock is a great reminder.... I'm surprised you didn't put that last dollar bill on there as well.
> 
> ...


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*still in hand*

I did not have much time today to work on the angled clock.

I spent some time practicing cutting holes and arched top in a piece of 1/2 " ply I had handy.

Used the Jasper 400 circle cutting jig.

Then screwed the workpiece to the bench to arch the top and cut the hole in the clock. - The clock unit I am using requires a 2 1/2" hole.

I was only using a cheap 6mm bit from a set I had and this produced smoke when cutting the arch, so off to buy a quality 1/4" bit on Monday.
After I cut the arch, I found the router would not cut a complete hole until after I trim of the excess fingers.

Had to prepare a barbecue, so that is tomorrows task.

The last shot is my early Christmas present which arrived from Detroit this week and I collected from the Post Office on Saturday before I went sailing..

James


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Congrats JAmes.. Merry Xmas!..LOL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Mk 1 - protype finished*

Finally finished the clock today.
There are a couple of obvious errors that will be made good in the Mk II.

Timber has been sanded and 1 coat of Danish oil.

You were right, Harry, I should not have taken the electric planner anywhere near it....LOL.

James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I know you would want me to tell it as it is James, overall you should be very happy but in my usual humble opinion, the front above the clock should be about 1/3rd shorter. I would suggest that with the next one, use wider wood then after the finger joints are routed, trim the sides on the table saw so that the fingers are even each side. Regardless of the above comments, you've come a long way in quite a short time.
Please explain why, considering you own a Makita 3612C, probably one of the finest routers on the market for plunge routing, you have the Triton out of the table which is the place for this one because this is where it excels.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Great looking clock, James. I like it a lot. I love the oil finish. 

I am partial to the Scandinavian oilwood stain from Behr. My Aussie brother-in-law got me on to it. I can't find it on their homepage so maybe they don't sell it anymore. But I've got a couple full cans of it yet.

Golly, I wish the US had as nice a Santa as you have over there. All I get is pajamas and socks. :'(

I'm getting there but I've only got 3/4" stock. It not right but it's what I've got to use. I'm ready to practice drilling the hole with the hole saw... but I'm using a stand-in for a drill press.... it's Wolfcraft's drill guide. I don't know how or if it will work but I'll try. (It's no wonder I get discouraged..... never have the right tool for the job.)

Go, James! Good job! Anyone in your life who is getting an angled clock for Christmas? <very big grin>



jw2170 said:


> Finally finished the clock today.
> There are a couple of obvious errors that will be made good in the Mk II.
> 
> Timber has been sanded and 1 coat of Danish oil.
> ...


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Good job James. There is nothing like the satisfaction of a completed project!


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Nice clock!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James

Nice job , it's bit tall but that's fine  and we are not going to talk about the planner mark ,, you got it done and that's what it's about ,fun stuff 


==========



jw2170 said:


> Finally finished the clock today.
> There are a couple of obvious errors that will be made good in the Mk II.
> 
> Timber has been sanded and 1 coat of Danish oil.
> ...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi James,

Personally, I think you've done a fine job with that clock.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Excellent job James and now this thread has me wanting to try one :thank_you2:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> I know you would want me to tell it as it is James, overall you should be very happy but in my usual humble opinion, the front above the clock should be about 1/3rd shorter. I would suggest that with the next one, use wider wood then after the finger joints are routed, trim the sides on the table saw so that the fingers are even each side. Regardless of the above comments, you've come a long way in quite a short time.
> considering you own a Makita 3612C, probably one of the finest routers on the market for plunge routing, you have the Triton out of the table which is the place for this one because this is where it excels.


Hi Harry,

I did say it had obvious errors...LOL

Your comments are welcome and are not taken as criticism.

1.clock should be about 1/3rd shorter - yes I used the timber from box kit I purchased for the clock and just cut an arch in the top. the bottom I trimmed to a shorter length.
The timber was about 4" x 10" x 3/8 (10mm). Next time I will use timber at least 5" wide and 1/2" or 3/4" thick.

2. I did use the Makita 3612C for all plunge work on the clock. I had just taken the Triton out of the Timbecon table to set it into the OP 11 x 11 plate ( a perfect fit by the way)

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great looking clock, James. I like it a lot. I love the oil finish. 

I am partial to the Scandinavian oilwood stain from Behr. My Aussie brother-in-law got me on to it. I can't find it on their homepage so maybe they don't sell it anymore. But I've got a couple full cans of it yet.

Golly, I wish the US had as nice a Santa as you have over there. All I get is pajamas and socks. :'(

I'm getting there but I've only got 3/4" stock. It not right but it's what I've got to use. I'm ready to practice drilling the hole with the hole saw... but I'm using a stand-in for a drill press.... it's Wolfcraft's drill guide. I don't know how or if it will work but I'll try. (It's no wonder I get discouraged..... never have the right tool for the job.)


Barb,

I used Feast Watson Scandinavian oil ( a local product) and it did really bring out the colour if the timber.

I drilled all the holes and the arched top with the Jasper 400 Circle Jig and did not use a hole saw.

Use the 3/4 stock - I will next time. i did go out and buy a new 1/4" CMT straight bit for the jig.

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi James
> 
> Nice job , it's bit tall but that's fine  and we are not going to talk about the planner mark ,, you got it done and that's what it's about ,fun stuff
> 
> ...


Bob, you noticed......

Thanks to all those that have offered
support.

James


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

Hey Guys (and Barb). I finally got my box joint jig doing right, and cut the parts for the clock out of oak. Like everything else, I don't know much about finishing, and would like to ask for suggestions about staining and finishing the oak.

I'd kind of like to to with the easiest, no-surprises way at the beginning even if it doesn't necessarily make the best possible appearance. I will appreciate any suggestions on sanding, type of stain and finish, brands, or anything else. Thanks. Jim


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

*Finish on angled clock*

I didn't look far enough through the thread to read what I hadn't already seen. Only had a couple of minutes to post. Sorry.

James.....I saw that on yours, you said you sanded and put one coat of danish oil. It looks very good. May I ask if you used clear danish oil, and what was the last grit of paper you used? Thanks. Jim


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Jim, a big part of a good finish is in the preparation. Lightly sand with 120 grit, then 180 and finish with 220. Wipe away all the dust before any type of finish and try to keep your hands off so no oils from your skin messes things up. I used latex or vinyl gloves when working with stain; buy a box of them.

For the clock you can get away with a single rattle can of semi gloss polyurethane and have excellent results plus no clean up. I really like Painters Pyramids when spraying paint or finish. Spray the bottom first, let it dry and then do the top. Don't make the mistake I did when first using spray cans: keep your distance and apply light coats. The handle trigger devices that attach to spray cans are much easier to work with than trying to use the spray can button.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Feast Watson ...*



chessnut2 said:


> I didn't look far enough through the thread to read what I hadn't already seen. Only had a couple of minutes to post. Sorry.
> 
> James.....I saw that on yours, you said you sanded and put one coat of danish oil. It looks very good. May I ask if you used clear danish oil, and what was the last grit of paper you used? Thanks. Jim



Hi Jim,

From memory, all I did was a good hand sanding with 120 grit paper and one coat of Feast Watson Scandinavian Oil.

Feast Watson - Interior Clear Finishes & Oils - Scandinavian Oil


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

Great advice as always, Mike. I'll get the triggers, poly, and gloves today. If I can't find any pyramids, I may may be able to make something. Thanks for all you do. Jim


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

Thanks, James. I've got some clear Watco and can experiment on scraps from the clock. I'll avoid saying how many of those pieces I ended up with.


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