# incra jig right angle



## bruce thom (Apr 2, 2008)

Has anyone besides me had difficulty with this right angle holder..
It seems to jump when I am routing dovetails and never glides smoothly like their videos show.
it it me or their design?
Abie


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## Microsuffer (Aug 7, 2008)

Make sure you have cleared all surfaces of debris, especially anything sticky. The jig should be snug to the fence and just lose enough to move along it without any play. Check that the router plate is not sticking up. Above, all, be firmly in control of the jig. Properly set up you shouldn't have anything that causes the jig to stick and then jump.


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## woodshopdemos (Oct 13, 2008)

I will add some thoughts to what Microsurfer said. I use a dry lubricant on the fence and the holder. There are three white nylon screws on the fence side of the vertical holder. The center one is to hold the holder fast to the fence for when you are loading the device. When you are routing, simply unscrew this a turn or so. The other two outboard screws are to adjsut the holder so that it can move freely, but tightened enough to reduce any slippage. Next, when you add wood to be clamped, stack it so that all pieces contact the router table top. Do not try to have the pieces be flat against the fence. The fence might be leaning slightly back (out of square). Only the base of the wood has to come in contact with the fence. When you route, your right hand should be on the vertical holder and be oressing down and forward, the left on the wood clamp keeping vibration out as much as possible. Practise this and you will get great cuts.


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## hgporter (Feb 26, 2007)

*INCRA Smooth Operator*



Abie said:


> right angle holder seems to jump when I am routing dovetails and never glides smoothly like their videos show.
> Abie


I added a piece of 3/4" UHMW Tape to the bottom of the plywood runners and to the inside surface (opposite the plastic screws) that rides against the fence. Now mine slides smoothly on the table and the fence. 

i also added UHMW tape to the bottom of the Pro II fence as well as to the bottoms of the wonder fence. Not only does it slide more smoothly, but it doesn't scratch my melamine router table top as it had been from the factory.

I bought my tape from Hartville Tool.


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## bruce thom (Apr 2, 2008)

Thanks
Discovered another problem with the jointech lift
the window showing router height is inset enough to catch my backer boards if i am not careful
Finally got four boards cut uniformly so perhaps I am getting it right.
tnx for the useful tip


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## bruce thom (Apr 2, 2008)

Thanks for all the help
I installed the tape and took care of the router table so all runs smooth now
what a difference it makes
Will be able to post pictures soon.
Bruce


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## tprofera (Jun 29, 2008)

Abie said:


> Thanks for all the help
> I installed the tape and took care of the router table so all runs smooth now
> what a difference it makes
> Will be able to post pictures soon.
> Bruce


pictures?


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I replaced the ply blocks with slippy nylon blocks that made quite a difference to the glide. I also incorporated a sacrificial backing piece.


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## bruce thom (Apr 2, 2008)

Thanks mike;
can you post picts of the backer piece?
where did you find nylon blocks for the bottom blocks?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Abie

Just a butt in post 

You can save a buck or two with the tape...or get the stock to make the blocks from the same.see below ....
UHMW Plastic Sheets and Strips

The block on the right hand side of the pusher block is made to hook on to the fence to keep it to the fence every time..see picture below..
The box on the back side of the fence is for the vac. hose (2 1/2") to fit in and to suck up the chips..

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Abie said:


> Thanks mike;
> can you post picts of the backer piece?
> where did you find nylon blocks for the bottom blocks?


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I shall take some photos and post them. The nylon and other plastic are offcuts sourced from a local stockist, sold by weight. I am using some black nylon for my Digital height gauge


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## oldnewbie (Sep 18, 2006)

My Pusher block doesn't have the part to hold it to the fence. Is this a later inovation? Looks like it would be very useful. Is there possibly an update add-on that can be purchased?

Thanks, Neal


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Neal

It's shop made add on,,just like the handle,,,it sure works great to keep it to the fence all the way down the pass and on the pull back pass ,easy to make with two flat head screws some nuts and some MDF stock...

========


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Nylon sliders.With sacrificial strip.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

*2 more of the same*

Nylon sliders and sacrificial strip stuck on with double sided tape.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

I have a question on the right-angle slider, and it's not too off-topic. Incra recommends clamping your wood to it with wooden clamps like these: HF wood clamps LINK 

Do you actually use that one,or would an f-style clamp work? By the way, it has t-slots on it and I was wondering if a toggle clamp would hold the board sufficiently, like these: 500lb horizontal toggle clamp LINK or 500 lb vertical toggle clamp LINK


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I use a pair of these QR clamps, front and backing boards spread the pressure.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Noop

I use just a 2" or 3" C-Clamp with a wood pad on it (with sand paper,glued in place) so it can't put marks on the stock with the nasty little ring  I made a pair like the OP type with big wooden handles ( 2'' diam.) the wooden type clamp is always in the way for me... 

No real room for the toggle type clamps..

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Noob said:


> I have a question on the right-angle slider, and it's not too off-topic. Incra recommends clamping your wood to it with wooden clamps like these: HF wood clamps LINK
> 
> Do you actually use that one,or would an f-style clamp work? By the way, it has t-slots on it and I was wondering if a toggle clamp would hold the board sufficiently, like these: 500lb horizontal toggle clamp LINK or 500 lb vertical toggle clamp LINK


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I think HD Toggle clamps may distort the carrier face.


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## hgporter (Feb 26, 2007)

*Tape or Solid Runners?*



bobj3 said:


> ...
> 
> ...You can save a buck or two with the tape...or get the stock to make the blocks from the same.see below ....
> UHMW Plastic Sheets and Strips
> ...


I didn't choose tape based on economy. I chose it because I wanted to make everything that slides, slide easier. Adding tape to the bottom of everything that contacts the table insured each item stayed in perfect alignment with each other.

You certainly could replace the hardwood runners with machined UHMW blocks, compensating for the amount the fence was raised. I don't see a need for solid block runners because the tape wear is almost negligible. I'm betting the 0.030 tape could easily outlast me. 

Once you have the tape, you'll find other applications for it. A couple of strips on every jig that slides on a table works wonders.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I only chose the blocks because I had the stock and my cleaner egged me on. He is an ex-machinist and knows his stuff and is a real stickler for setup and accuracy.


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