# Iron on Edge Banding?



## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Has anyone tried Iron -On edge banding for plywood? I can't stand to have the edges of plywood show, so I've always cut strips of solid wood, glued them to the edges, and trimmed flush with laminate trimmer. I always knew there was iron-on banding available, but never really considered it. Now I see where I can get a 250 foot roll of red oak banding for $25. I'll spend several times that, plus a lot of time making 250 linear feet of banding. The task at hand is just a chest of drawers for shop tools, so it's a good place to experiment. My question is, does it stay on reliably??


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Yes. Absolutely, Andy; love it. I never use MDF so it's either solid edging or iron on; not a lot of other options...vinyl moulding is a bit 60's.
Either buy your own iron or be reeaaaaly careful that you check your wife's iron for residue when you're finished...she will not be impressed with glue on her $200 blouse. *lips are sealed!*


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

yes, for decades...
just use an ordinary clothes iron set to DRY high heat...
a roller is a good bet when applying.....
if you get blisters/ripples no matter how careful you are... it is often the banding.. the cheap imported stuff does that...
Edgebanding Guide - A Simple Method Yields Superb Results
...


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Just what I wanted to know! Thanks Y'all!


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Yes. And I use a setup similar to what Stick posted. Clamp up several pieces, iron on the banding and then trim. Works well.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I picked up an old iron at a garage sale and have it in the shop dedicated to edge banding.
Herb


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Yes, would work for edge banding plywood carcasses, drawer fronts too, although I lean towards solid edging if it's going to see heavy/rough service. I've done enough of it that I bought one of the purpose made irons although, as mentioned, your wife's iron will work - just be sure to clean it thoroughly before returning. I never had much luck with rolling the banding, preferred to rub it with a softwood block with rounded edges as I felt I got a more even force - and I used the block to rub out laminate edging too. 

There was a similar thread recently, talking more about trimming the edges - knife, razor blade, chisel, etc. - but I've always used the edge of a file the way I was taught by a gentleman who worked for a company that made institutional cabinets all his life. If you keep the file at a shallow angle and feed sideways as you stroke, the overhang can come off in a continuous curl, very quick once you get the hang of it.

If you think a heavier edging is preferable, I just read about a company on another forum that sell both the regular wood tape as well as heavier 1 mm, 2 mm and 3 mm thick product. I've never dealt with them and think you have to contact them for prices.

https://edgecoinc.com/veneer-wood-edge-banding-thick/


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Herb Stoops said:


> I picked up an old iron at a garage sale and have it in the shop dedicated to edge banding.
> Herb


I did the same, but found my iron in a re-store for $2, It works great for this, but doesn't get used much.

I prefer making solid wood strips and gluing them on. For a couple of recent cabinets using 3/4 birch cabinet ply that needed stain and poly finish, I made 3/4 X 3/4 soft maple strips and joined the cabinet sides at the cabinet corner into it using biscuits and glue. When trimmed and sanded, the soft maple grain and color was very close to the surface veneer of the cabinet birch. The soft maple has since been my preferred solid wood for covering cabinet birch end grain, even when as thin as 1/8" (without biscuits).

Charley


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I suggest that you put a coat of glue on the edges first. Then iron the strips on.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

It's OK for quick and dirty, but I by far prefer cutting strips, gluing them up , trimming smooth. The iron on doesn't improve the strength of a shelf, a good hardwood strip does. Glue thoroughly, I put 2 coats on the ply edge because it really soaks in. Clamp the strips in place same as you would glue up a panel. If I'm going for strength, the strip will be about 3/4 inch wide. 

With iron on strips, you still have to trim the strips even with the ply. If the strips are solidly attached, then trimming can be done with a sharp block plane, or you can purchase a trimmer. I personally only have disasters trying to use a chisel or another blade. You can use a trim router as well. And as mentioned, I prefer to use a slightly rounded stick rather than a roller. Never tried applying glue first...I'd want to test that out on scrap first.

Man, you sure got that question answered thoroughly. 

Oh yes, welcome to the Forum.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

If you're going to do a lot of iron on edge banding, pick up one of these trimmers. They trim both sides of the banding at the same time and will save you a lot of time. I follow up the trimmer with a sanding sponge to knock the sharp edge off.

https://www.toolstoday.com/double-e...MI0q-2oLaV2QIVEgeGCh0OmQaAEAQYBSABEgI8IPD_BwE


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Sorry, meant to add a picture to the above post


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I suggest that you put a coat of glue on the edges first. Then iron the strips on.


are you letting the glue dry or are you sizing???


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

vchiarelli said:


> If you're going to do a lot of iron on edge banding, pick up one of these trimmers. They trim both sides of the banding at the same time and will save you a lot of time. I follow up the trimmer with a sanding sponge to knock the sharp edge off.
> 
> https://www.toolstoday.com/double-e...MI0q-2oLaV2QIVEgeGCh0OmQaAEAQYBSABEgI8IPD_BwE


that's the one I use...
Tomp's method is way better...
lot less tear out or chance of...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> are you letting the glue dry or are you sizing???


Let it dry. You need to fill the pores in the end grain otherwise there is only about 50% of the surface that the hot melt will stick to. I'm convinced that is why it has a tendency to want to let go a few years later. BTW, melamine glue does a great job of sticking it back on with some masking tape to hold in place. The only glue I use for bonding on the edges of ply, mdf, or particle board is melamine glue. It doesn't get sucked into the grain like regular wood glues do.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

cut by percentage or full strength???


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Full strength. Just spread it on reasonably smooth. If it doesn't look a little bit glossy then it needs another coat. Remember that both wood glue and hot melt are both plastics so heat will bond them together. Ply and mdf aren't usually a problem after one coat but particle board may need more. It's extremely porous. Porosity means voids and that means that there is noting for the hot melt glue to stick to unless you fill the voids. Or solid wood banding if you are doing that. When I put the solid wood banding on I usually put a coat of glue on then wait 5-10 minutes and add a another coat. I'd rather have excessive squeeze out than joint failure.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

what are you doing for excessive ''squeeze'' out???


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

All good info. Thanks Y'all!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DonkeyHody said:


> All good info. Thanks Y'all!


done yet???


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## Roland Johnson (Oct 27, 2015)

I have used it for years and never have had a problem get mine now on e-bay from Florida


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## Garyk (Dec 29, 2011)

Glue on edge banding, properly applied, works just fine. I find a clothes iron to be too bulky and you can buy a small iron from a hobby supply shop for about $25. It's used by hobbyist for ironing on the covering for model airplanes. I've actually used it for applying Ceconite covering on GA planes that we rebuild. Works great for getting into tight spaces.

P.S The file trick works well once the banding is cut close to it's final size and to get it there I have an edge band cutting tool that has a razor blade built into it. A little yellow plastic device that you just push along the edge. If you use the file and the edge banding is larger than the underlayment it can split the banding.


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> done yet???


Nope. I decided that the project at hand is so small that I can use scraps for solid wood edge banding and I won't have to worry about it coming off. Just got back from the wood store with some red oak for my drawer fronts, and the edges. But I may order some veneer banding for future use. And an iron to apply it with.


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## scottgrove (Sep 4, 2016)

yes, miles of it, and with that said, you might consider the peel and stick type.
https://www.fastcap.com/product/fastedge-peel-and-stick-edgebanding

It costs more per LF but I have had my students do time studies and even with a moderate hourly rate, in the end the peel and stick is much more cost effective. It goes on in a fraction of the time. Hence, peel and stick. 
You can work with it right away but do need to wait 24 for full cure of the moisture cure adhesive. 

On another note, the Festool perfect edge hand held edgebandor is really the way to go. I had a chance to demo this in Vegas and in Scotland and it is a game changer. here is a video I posted on FB about it . 
https://www.facebook.com/scott.grove.587/videos/10156112320188777/

good luck


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

DonkeyHody said:


> Nope. I decided that the project at hand is so small that I can use scraps for solid wood edge banding and I won't have to worry about it coming off. Just got back from the wood store with some red oak for my drawer fronts, and the edges. But I may order some veneer banding for future use. And an iron to apply it with.


Most of my edge banding is made with scraps and cutoffs. Use the Rockler Thin Strip Guide to rip consistent thickness, sometimes think something like the jig in the attached .pdf may be quicker as you're not moving the fence for every pass - although it's limited on the length of strips that can realistically be ripped. I typically wipe on a thin coat of glue, let it dry for a few minutes and then apply another layer, rub the strip back and forth until the glue "grabs". For shop or painted cabinets, a pin nailer makes short work of assembly, otherwise I just use strips of painters tape. Getting ready to make up the drawer fronts for my router bit storage cabinet - making the fronts out of cut-offs of HD Sande plywood and the edging from poplar scraps, glue and pin nailed in place.

One thing to keep in mind when using either the iron-on or peel-and-stick, some finished may loosen the glue bond and affect adhesion - also a concern when using some of the "pre-glued" sheet veneers - this could be the reason for some of the failures. I don't think I've ever "sealed" the edge with glue before ironing on the tape, but most has been used with cabinet grade plywood - may consider that if I'm edging B-C fir though.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> what are you doing for excessive ''squeeze'' out???


Let it dry and shave it off. On melamine board that means laying a sharp chisel flat on the panel and shave it. On ply it depends on how hard it is. Sometimes a card scraper works well. If you were going to paint the banding then I suppose you could wipe it off with a damp rag but even if you were just going to varathane (no stain i.e.) you risk sealing some of the grain and causing it to look blotchy.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I strongly recommend using melamine glue for applying the banding. Titebond - Product

It's the only glue I use when applying to particle board. It will bond melamine to melamine over small areas as the water has to escape for it to set and it can't do that over large areas. When I made my cupboards some years ago I wanted slide out shelves so I took some 5/8" melamine and rimmed it with 3/4" birch to essentially make shallow boxes. I rabbeted the bottom edges of the birch to 3/8" thick and glued and held them with 4 or 5 brad nails per side. About 30 to 45 minutes later I realized I had made a measuring error and needed to take the frames apart. I split several of the rabbets off trying to do that and I've been sold on melamine glue ever since then.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

This thread is a couple years old now, but I remembered it when I saw the attached YouTube video showing how to trim the glue-on edge banding - exactly the way that I tried to describe it, except that I normally laid the part flat to keep the file almost horizontal as I feel that I have better control that way.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AMC8mFFrYlY&feature=youtu.be&utm_campaign=PWW%20Editorial%20Newsletters&utm_medium=email&_hsmi=94203490&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-8n738B_F2s381X6kdC7DDAp9c66BKZvN2Gj9w-3QS5rFVztA0HG54st5SoBsHW3XyG4D2xPQUKtcB1whWb3t0uqWZ2qQ&utm_content=94200640&utm_source=hs_email


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

these work also...

.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Wrap a layer of masking tape around the part of the file that you lay on the face of your work. That will give you a very slight bevel on the edge.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Wrap a layer of masking tape around the part of the file that you lay on the face of your work. That will give you a very slight bevel on the edge.


Plus it stops you from getting a blister on the tips of your fingers.


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