# Jig Storage & Shop made Knobs



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Just out of curiosity, how/where does everyone store their jigs. I am getting an accumulation of a few and many more to come as I sit here trying to figure out where I am going to keep all of these in my smal shop. Picture ideas would be a plus.

I can't wait for BJ to get hold of this thread.... he must have a thousand


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I too can't wait for answers. I find it difficult to open a cupboard in either of my sheds without protecting my head from falling jigs!


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## Grumpy Old Bill (Sep 1, 2006)

I have run out of shelf space as well so I have taken to drilling holes in the jigs and hanging them from nails in the floor joists overhead in my basement shop. I use a black marker to identify what they are used for ... in BIG letters for my old eyes.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

Well ,,,,, I have a roll of elec. wire (#14ga.) that I keep on hand all the time,I take the knife and remove the white cover and then remove the wire(s) from the inside and cut them into 12" to 14" long , then I drill a 1/4" hole in most of the jigs and hang them on the walls in the shop   a out of site thing will come into to play if I don't don't keep them in site... 
But I'm running out of walls,so now I have them 3 or 4 deep and I'm using 4" to 6" deck screws to hang them on now. 
No real order to them and I must do that some day,but most of them are for the router table and the ones for the other equipment I try and keep them by that machine or on the wall behind it.

They are all marked but some times I don't recall what my notes are for 
So sometimes they get a rework job to do a new job,,, that been working out great because I can use the same jig to do more than one job.

I'm not to sure how many I have but it's getting hard to find a blank spot on the wall for any more, I use wooden knobs on alot of them and the last time I made 50 knobs and on Fri. last week .the box for the knobs was down to just two, I guess it time to make some more.. the last time I made some was about 60 days ago and I was hard for me to think I used that many.


Bj 



Bob N said:


> Just out of curiosity, how/where does everyone store their jigs. I am getting an accumulation of a few and many more to come as I sit here trying to figure out where I am going to keep all of these in my smal shop. Picture ideas would be a plus.
> 
> 
> 
> I can't wait for BJ to get hold of this thread.... he must have a thousand


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## HCarle (Mar 27, 2006)

I hang all of them on a pegboard wall.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Thanks guys, but I am all out of wall space and I don't think the wife will let me hang them in the house in place of the pictures  

Got to figure something out in the near future for sure.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*Knobs*

Bob, how about a photo.shoot when you make the next batch of knobs.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bob, take advantage of overhead space like old fashioned stores used to. You can run a heavy gauge wire across your shop in the rafter area and use a long pole with BJ's "S-hook" to hang the jigs out of harms way.
It couldnt hurt to number each jig as you use or build it and keep a log with the function and storage location.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Ok , or how about a snapshot of the jig I use to make them 

It's a quick jig to make and the knobs come out right on the buttom every time.

Bj 





harrysin said:


> Bob, how about a photo.shoot when you make the next batch of knobs.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Bob 

Here's one I have been kicking around in my head for a long time,, 

Take some 3/4" plywood and put in 3/4" wide dado slots on 2" centers from one end to the other ,1/2" deep on the 4ft x 8ft ,then rip it into two parts,this will give you a left and a right side to a new corner cabinet,then take some pine or poplar and make a face frame for the front and some 1/4" plywood for the back, then cut some 3/4" plywood up for the side in shelves, because the 3/4" plywood is not 3/4" thick they will just slide in free.
A pocket screws to hold the front face frame in place and a dado on the sides to hold the plywood in place.

Drill in one or two finger holes in the slide in shelves so you can pull them pull them out all the way and so you can make the opening bigger by just removing it and store it.

Bj


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob, I sure would be happy with a snapshot of you're jig but where is it???????


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry
The knob jig or the jigs on the wall in the shop ?

Here's link to a old picture(s) of the shop ▼

http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/2442-rockler-drill-press-milling-vise.html

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/2532-just-some-shop-snapshots.html

http://www.routerforums.com/starting-off/2624-used-lumber.html


If it's the knob jig ,let me know and I will take some snapshots of it. 


Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

harrysin said:


> Bob, I sure would be happy with a snapshot of you're jig but where is it???????



Bob, I too would like to see a photo shoot of how you make your knobs...

I picture cutting a strip of wood, drill press jig to control spacing of holes, drill a bunch of spaced out holes, tap the center hole, cut them up, then sand... maybe roundovering edges on router table somewhere...

It would be nice to see how you stamp them out...  

Thank you...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Here's a quick way to make the knobs we all use now and then.
Plus it can save you some big bucks if you buy as many as I do(did).

Use scap hardwood but almost anything we do.   (but NOT Plywood) 


The real key to this jig is the indexing of the jig block and the welding rods to keep it true when you drill the small holes. 5 ea. for this one but it can be more if you want. 

I use a small clock face or a compasses to get the hole setup of the jig but aging it can be what you want to use.

If you need more info just ask 

More knob types below
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/8193-beadlock-pro-joinery-4.html
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/8193-beadlock-pro-joinery.html


enjoy Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Ran out of room 
two more below

Bj


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I had remarked to my wife a few days ago: "He even makes his own knobs for things"..
Thanks for showing how you do it.. What size hole saw do you use for the outside diameter?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I use 2" to 2 1/2" the norm but sometimes 3 or 3 1/4" ID on the hole saws, some jigs need a bit more torg.that's when I use the 3/8-16 tee-nuts and the big OD ones.

I also use 1/4-20 tee-nuts on the small ones like for T-track items,
and use all thread rod when I need the stud type and a cap nut on top for a locking nut.(jam type).
Plastic knobs can be high in price and sometimes, and I can't find the size I want, I also make my table saw wheels when I need one a bit bigger or smaller the same way but I use a plastic long knob to hang on to and crank it with. 

Bj


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Now you're cooking with gas! that is what I mean by a photo shoot. I particularly like the sanding jig but one thing puzzles me, why remove the sharp points from the tee nuts and what then holds them in place?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Sharp points, are not needed, if the hole is drilled just right because the pull on the tee-nut is always on the lip of the tee-nut, BUT if you don't remove the points it will SPLIT the hardwood when the tee-nut is set in place.
I tried to make that a real point in many of the snapshots : ) 

If the hole is just a bit over size a bit of glue will hold it in place.

Note**** you can buy tee-nuts without the sharp point but they are 5 times the price the norm, a set of side cutters (wire cutters) will do the job just fine, there will be just a small tip on the tee-nut this will hold the nut from turning in the hole, I cut them on a small angle to a sharp point so to speak but only 1/16" long max.

Bj 



harrysin said:


> Now you're cooking with gas! that is what I mean by a photo shoot. I particularly like the sanding jig but one thing puzzles me, why remove the sharp points from the tee nuts and what then holds them in place?


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Excellent BJ, just checking in from Minneapolis...Free YI FI ! Thanks for posting the pics!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey
Good trip ? I hope ,what do you do when you have off time in Minneapolis ?, I saw you log on and I said he must be home .  
But still working  

Bj 




challagan said:


> Excellent BJ, just checking in from Minneapolis...Free YI FI ! Thanks for posting the pics!
> 
> Corey


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Sharp points, are not needed, if the hole is drilled just right because the pull on the tee-nut is always on the lip of the tee-nut, BUT if you don't remove the points it will SPLIT the hardwood when the tee-nut is set in place.
> I tried to make that a real point in many of the snapshots : )
> ...


Bob,

I was just wondering...
Could any of the following be used *instead of* a tee-nut?

*Threaded Insert...*
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=362&sid=AFF17

*Hex Head drive threaded insert...*
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=364&sid=AFF17

Wouldn't it make it easier to not have to be concerned with the edges?

Are these the tee-nuts you are using?
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1592&sid=AFF17
Those look like pretty long spikes to cut off!!

Yes, they sure DO cost more!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

1. NO
2. NO
3. Yes, BUT at 25.oo per.100 bit high in price, you can get them for about $8.00 per.100 at most fasterns supply outlets/ONLINE also ,it's worth the trip, or HD/Lowers/Ace..they are also are a bit high because they sale most of the items by the each and you will pay for the plastic packing or price mark on ea. fastern.

BeCause
1. they will split the hardwood knob,they also lift the wood up,not a clean job, plus they like to back out.. 
2. same as number #1
Plus you must buy a tool to put them in or make one. 
A bolt with 2 jam nuts will put them in BUT...

Inserts
I SHOULD NOTE I have them in 1/4-20 ,5/16-18,3/8-16, in brass and steel and do use them time to time and made my own tool to install them with but they are not my favorites...  ,,,,I call them plywood fasterns or blind hole fastern .


Bj 



Joe Lyddon said:


> Bob,
> 
> I was just wondering...
> Could any of the following be used *instead of* a tee-nut?
> ...


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Bob,

I'm sure glad I asked!!

I have some of those other goodies... guess I won't use them... at least for HARD clamping use... 

I had no idea that HD & L sold them!! I know if I went there and asked if they any tee-nuts, I'd get that 'blank' stare...  

Hardware dept... and look, LOOK, and *L O O K*!! That's why I hate to go there.

Thank you again for your help...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome Joe

That's why I go late at night,,,to HD/LOWES 
Many kinds of tee-nuts, machinery type, wood fastern type,Alum.insert type called Pen.,many kinds/ 

Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Joe

Tee-Nuts from MSCdirect

Here's a link that I get them from time to time..when I don't want to go for a ride to the fasterns supply house.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?PACACHE=000000010709574

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?SITYPE=1&SITEXT=tig+welding+machine&KNC-T7L391316886&

Bj


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Hey BJ, thanks very much, I look forward to creating my own little 'wheelies'. Very useful and informative. I also had the question of why remove the sharp bits, but you've done very well once again in your logics and explanations.

Thank you,

KarateEd......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Ed and you'er welcome 

They are Fun to make, I do it when I don't want to do anything else or start a new project   
If I'm not making " 'wheelies' " I'm making door handles ( pull type for drawers and doors,boxes,etc.) they also are fun to make on the router table, out of scrap hardwood the norm, I just put them in a pastic bag /plastic jar and put them under the bench so have some when I need them .  

Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

You didn't say if you got your jig storage cabinet setup 

Bj


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Well BJ..... I've been so busy making more jigs that I haven't had a chance to work on the storage solution yet, but I'm going to have to come up with something soon.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

You know how much I like JIGS so how about a snapshot or two 

Bj 


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Bob N said:


> Well BJ..... I've been so busy making more jigs that I haven't had a chance to work on the storage solution yet, but I'm going to have to come up with something soon.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

bj,

I'll try to get some over the weekend and post them. Right now they are for the TS as I am getting ready to get into box making and wanted to be sure I deal with that machine in a safe manner. Not purdy like yours, but will allow me to keep ten


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## Doyle (Mar 20, 2007)

Hot diggity. Thanks BJ for the info and pics. Doyle here grining big.


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

Bj san
Thank you very much for your pictures.
I understood well how to make, and bad way I have done.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

I've got five drawer pulls to make today to finish this chest --- just been playing with designs --- 
THANKS for the extra ideas


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a update for making your own knobs

This 7 point type is alot easy to make and quicker... 

Just print out the black snapshot/ drawing 

http://www.routerforums.com/42540-post15.html
http://www.routerforums.com/42539-post14.html 

place it on a some scrap stock to make the index block
I used some welding rod for the index pins, drill the center one 1st. then put a pin then one of the outside holes then put a pin in the hole then the next hole and then put a pin in that one and then just leave the pins in place and dril the other holes once you have them all drilled pull the pins and chuck up a drill bit and drill out the holes..I used 1 5/8" bit but it can be just about any size you want to use.

Almost no sanding needed for this type...not sanding jig needed just the index block... 

NOTE*** I recommend using a hole saw for the bigger holes if you are going to use real hard wood (Cherry,hard Maple,etc.) for the knobs the hardwooda are real hard on the Forstner Bits , they do like to heat up if you go over 1/2" deep..and you will cook your bits..

============



bobj3 said:


> Ran out of room
> two more below
> 
> Bj


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

*Nice knobs!*

Hey Bob

Nice knob making guide there. I have a few questions:

1. When using the hole saw to cut the knobs free, do you just centre it by eye? 
2. I couldn't tell which method you favor for inserting the modified t-nuts - could you please explain? I guess is either pull them in with a bolt - or hammer them in?
3. Do you only glue the t-nuts in if the hole is a little sloppy?

Matthew


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

Once you drill the center hole out it's all index off that hole and it will always be in the center.
Tee nuts, I just tap them in the hole the norm no glue needed the norm but all you need is just little tap with the hammer if you get the hole to big a little glue will hold in place, you will see just a little tap will hold them in place that's all that's needed to lock them in place,every time you use one the bolt will pull the tee nut in just a little bit more every time.

===



matt1710 said:


> Hey Bob
> 
> Nice knob making guide there. I have a few questions:
> 
> ...


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Instead of modifying t-nuts, use hurricane nuts (also called propel nuts). They are like t-nuts but without the "teeth", and they grab along the "barrel" of the nut instead of the base.

1/4-20 Hurricane Nuts 50 Pcs.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Paulo

They may work but most just spin in the hole once you tighten them down, it needs that little barb on the washer face to hold it from turning, I have tried many,many types and the tee nuts (without the long prong) work the best and they are cheap, you will need all 3 sizes and sometime all 4 sizes.
(10-24 to 3/8-16 )
Just a note, care must be taken if the nut (barrel) is to big it will split the knob just like a peanut..not to much mass holding the parts in place once you cut them out..

===



Noob said:


> Instead of modifying t-nuts, use hurricane nuts (also called propel nuts). They are like t-nuts but without the "teeth", and they grab along the "barrel" of the nut instead of the base.
> 
> 1/4-20 Hurricane Nuts 50 Pcs.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

What I would like to know BJ, When do You sleep?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Howard

hahahahahaha like many only 2 or 3 hours per.night   but it's hell on my neighbors. 


=======





dutchman 46 said:


> What I would like to know BJ, When do You sleep?


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Thanks for the replies Bob. So the hole saw must have a central drill bit? The set I have doesn't have that - it is an ancient set from my Grandad though! Must upgrade!

As for drilling the holes in the knob stock : I assume you don't drill through the template (otherwise the template's holes would get chewed up) - so do you just adhere the template to the knob stock, and punch all holes (to mark them) - then remove template and drill the holes? I couldn't figure out what the drill rod was for - I assume it's some kind of locator...?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

Right on "locator" just a index block,where the holes should drill out....

Note all the pins must be in place to keep it true to the index block..the drill bit will do the rest of the job..once you remove the pins and the template block..

===




matt1710 said:


> Thanks for the replies Bob. So the hole saw must have a central drill bit? The set I have doesn't have that - it is an ancient set from my Grandad though! Must upgrade!
> 
> As for drilling the holes in the knob stock : I assume you don't drill through the template (otherwise the template's holes would get chewed up) - so do you just adhere the template to the knob stock, and punch all holes (to mark them) - then remove template and drill the holes? I couldn't figure out what the drill rod was for - I assume it's some kind of locator...?


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