# How far do you ever move your router fence?



## BBQJoe (Dec 3, 2020)

I'm building a router table.
I've never had one nor used one before.

I've seen many home built tables on the yootoobs, and it appears many folks run T track for their fences.
They also seem to run from back to front a heck of a lot longer than I imagine can or will ever be used.
It seems to me a person would only ever move their fence a matter of a few inches forward or back, or just remove it for certain jobs altogether.

Any input is greatly appreciated!


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

So far never had a use for a fence. But, I have a project where a fence will be needed. So, I'll just fasten down a chunk of 2X4.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Your router table can do many things you so far havent thought of. I have a 3 ft square home made table with T track for the fence adjustment. I often do work that the fence is a foot behind the bit.
If all youre going to do is straight mouldings, then no you dont need T track. But if you want to expand your knowledge of routering, then I think its a must.
Build for the future, not for the present.


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

BBQJoe, are you planning on using your table saw fence as your router fence? If so, you will have more movement than even Sunnybob has. On a separate table and fence, I am with Bob.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I seldom (maybe once in the last three years) use my router when it's not mounted on the table. For me I only move the fence to a point where the bit cuts. So that means less than an inch. I normally place it so that the wood touches the bearing. Any farther back and I wouldn't be using the fence I would be using the bearing as a fence. I don't have a T track to adjust the fence. I do have one on the fence to hold two feather boards to keep the wood tight to the table. The back of my fence is at a 90 degree angle. The part that attaches the fence to the table has a slot about 5" long on both sides. A carriage bolt comes up from underneath the table and goes through the fence. I have a wingnut on the bolt that I use to tighten the fence where I want it. If ever I would need to move the fence back I would be able to move it maybe the 5 inches.

How to build a router table - YouTube


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## BBQJoe (Dec 3, 2020)

sunnybob said:


> Your router table can do many things you so far havent thought of. I have a 3 ft square home made table with T track for the fence adjustment. I often do work that the fence is a foot behind the bit.
> If all youre going to do is straight mouldings, then no you dont need T track. But if you want to expand your knowledge of routering, then I think its a must.
> Build for the future, not for the present.


This is the type of input I'm needing.
I've been vacillating between building a fence into my table, or building one that will attach to the table saw fence.
I can see where a router table fence would have limitations, but a table saw fence might have endless possibilities.
Thank you.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

If you mount the router so that table saw fence can be used, you the best of both worlds.
i only wish I had room for a full sized saw instead of my dealt site saw.(My router table is considerably bigger than my saw).


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

As an example, I made this with only my table saw, my router table, bandsaw, and a lot of sandpaper (lol)


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

BBQJoe said:


> This is the type of input I'm needing.
> I've been vacillating between building a fence into my table, or building one that will attach to the table saw fence.
> I can see where a router table fence would have limitations, but a table saw fence might have endless possibilities.
> Thank you.


This year I added a Router Table to the wing of my table saw.... Love it! You have the accuracy in moving the fence when it is attached to the Table saw fence. I have the router on the right side with the fence on the far right side. If ever needed the fence can be put on the left side. Especially with a small shop doing away with a table makes much needed room.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

In the saw extension table I move it enough to route the middle shelve in base cabinets. For the regular router table a few inches. For the other three I move it fractions...


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Use the table saw fence (or one that mounts to it) if your router is mounted in the extension wing. Just remember to feed from the correct direction (may be the back side of the saw is the "front" of the router section

On my dedicated table I have NO T- Track. I just clamp my fence on both ends. If I need to micro adjust, I can just loosen one end and swing it in or out as needed.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

I use to use my dado stack to run dados in my cabinet ends then I moved to a easier router bit which made the task easier and more safe... but you'll need this much room on a base cabinets


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## BBQJoe (Dec 3, 2020)

Instead of starting a new thread, I'm going to try to ask another question in this one.
When using a split fence, what's about the widest one would ever expect to open it?


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

Router 3+, only take about a 3 1/2 bit max.

You will still need to either close the top off with a board and clamp or a feather board and clamp to maximize DC flow....


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

*Instead of starting a new thread, I'm going to try to ask another question in this one.
When using a split fence, what's about the widest one would ever expect to open it?

open it just wide enough to miss the cutter. Any more and you risk the wood falling into the hole and spoiling the cut.*


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

My fence is not tied to a T track, so I can clamp it anywhere on the table. Most uses so far have only required small adjustments, but I have complete freedom to put it wherever on the table I need, which I think gives the most potential flexibility.


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## BBQJoe (Dec 3, 2020)

Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> Router 3+, only take about a 3 1/2 bit max.
> 
> You will still need to either close the top off with a board and clamp or a feather board and clamp to maximize DC flow....


Thanks.
I was thinking it might be somewhere between 3 and 5 inches.
I know five inches would be really wide, but it might give a little more room if you didn't want to move the fence and had to get in there for some reason.
I'm currently working on my sliding door layout, and have it drawn up for a maximum of 5 inches.


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## BBQJoe (Dec 3, 2020)

sunnybob said:


> As an example, I made this with only my table saw, my router table, bandsaw, and a lot of sandpaper (lol)
> View attachment 396550


That's a very interesting piece of work there Bob!


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Here is my question. If you use your saw fence how do you run your wood through? The metal fence doesn't have a space in it so your bit will be on the outside of your fence. This would be fine if you never plan on routing the edge of the board but the edge of the board is what you normally do. I suppose that you could use the fence like you would if you were sawing wood however then you would be traping the wood between the router bit and the fence which is a no no unless you have a death wish. The fence needs to be behind the bit so that the wood rides the fence. The only exception is if you are making a slot or a dado in the wood, If you were doing that then the saw blade or dado blade would be a better choice.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

With a split fence the widest would be the widest bit that you would use. Typically that would be a 3" raised panel bit. You want to keep the distance between the bit and the opening as close as possible to avoid getting something caught in it.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

You can make a separate fence or a added on fence for your tablesaw. But many have a separate router table for complicated work....


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## BBQJoe (Dec 3, 2020)

mgmine said:


> Here is my question. If you use your saw fence how do you run your wood through? The metal fence doesn't have a space in it so your bit will be on the outside of your fence.





Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> You can make a separate fence or a added on fence for your tablesaw. But many have a separate router table for complicated work....


As Rebelwork posted, you make an added fence onto your ST fence.

Most folks make their TS router fence so that it sits over both sides of the TS fence.
I have some track in the top of my fence, so I'm going to try to attach it there, and leave the business side of the TS saw fence free so that if I should happen to need to make a cut, I can still utilize the TS fence and be able to read the measurements accurately without having to figure in the addition of the wood on that side.
I might have some pics by tonight. (I hope)


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Fence Transforms Table Saw Into a Real Router Table - FineWoodworking


A reader was installing a router table in his tablesaw’s extension table to save a huge amount of shop space. But he needed to turn the rip fence into a router-table fence, and figure out how to collect dust. In this article, learn how a fence transforms a tablesaw into a real router table.




www.finewoodworking.com


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

The Finewoodworking fence would be an excellent way to go. It solves all the problems except the size of the table itself. Although I would be curious to see how well it extracts dust since it's being sucked through the end of the fence and not directly behind the bit where it needs it most. As for the table saw size, there isn't much support on either side, infeed or outfeed which is why people often add an outfeed table to a saw. Router work is more critical than table saw work. When doing an edge there is zero room for wiggling or dropping or any other movement this is very difficult to achieve especially on a long board. If you have already built your table and attached it to the saw then you have overcome another big problem which is the attachment. If you haven't then seriously consider scrapping the idea and building a real table, You will spend more time building the special fence and adapting your saw to make it work, and in the end, what have you saved? If you build a table but don't build a base then you can simply hang the table on a hook or stand it in a corner when not in use. It would take up practically no space and could be set up on saw horses when needed. You will also be able to build a table the proper size to support any job that you do.


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## BBQJoe (Dec 3, 2020)

Ok gang, a few more questions, if you will.

I made my mock up of the fence, and I'm not quite happy with it yet.
I'm going to redo a few things, especially the doors.

1st question: My table will be 15 inches deep.
Where should I place the lift?
Should it be in the middle, or more towards the front or back?

2nd question: What height should I make the doors, or maybe I should ask, What is the tallest bit or height you'd most likely ever raise a bit using a fence with adjustable doors?

On my mockup I made them 3 inches, but seeing as I'm going to redo them, I think 3 inches may be too short.
Of course I could be wrong.

Thanks for any input!


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

15" isnt very deep for a router table


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

BBQJoe said:


> Ok gang, a few more questions, if you will.
> 
> I made my mock up of the fence, and I'm not quite happy with it yet.
> I'm going to redo a few things, especially the doors.
> ...


Not sure of the terminology but if doors are an adjustable fence with two halves then mine is around 6" and for the most part higher than needed but doable. Guessing I would think 3 to 4" is about standard. On occasion for stability on a tall piece you might need a very high fence and clamping a tall piece of wood to your existing fence works.

For me placement of the router plate on a 15" deep table would be off center to the right and around 8" deep. If needed you can clamp a makeshift fence on the front side for cuts farther away from the bit.

That's my guess as to where I would put it.. maybe not be the ideal location.


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## BBQJoe (Dec 3, 2020)

Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> 15" isnt very deep for a router table


And a 20 year old delta contractor table saw isn't much of a saw.
For the time being, I have to work with what I have.
Right now I'm set up inside the addition I'm building, but once that's all said and done, everything is going to have to move back into my little shop where space is at a premium.
I'm hoping to win the lottery and have someone come build me a football field sized heated and air conditioned shop with every machine and tool imaginable, until then....

Anyways, the end of my saw table had a nice little spot to make a 27x15 router table, so here we are for now, and it wouldn't take a whole lot to build a bigger stand alone router table in the future, if really needed.
By that time, I'd probably have enough skill and knowledge to know what I'd like in a router table.

So, all that said, and given that my fence will be attached to my saw fence and be movable by a large amount, where would you place the router lift?

Thanks.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

My fault. My table is against a storage rack so never think of running from that side. You have that option of running in reverse so the the 15" doesn't matter because you can move the fence way back on that side...


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## BBQJoe (Dec 3, 2020)

Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> My fault. My table is against a storage rack so never think of running from that side. You have that option of running in reverse so the the 15" doesn't matter because you can move the fence way back on that side...


Not a problem.
I'm still in the design phase, and have received my template and bushing set.
The table top is mounted, and I could potentially mount the lift any time now.
I'm considering setting up T track in the table top, and making the fence dual purpose, being able to stand alone, or attach to the TS fence if I'm wanting to do something really wide.

Being as I'm setting myself up for cabinet and door making, incorporating probably a lot of cope and stick, and given that the average stiles of both are between 3-5 inches, I'm thinking that the plate should probably be placed more to the rear leaving room in the front for more T track for jigs and featherboards.

Your thoughts are given great consideration.

Joe


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

You want to keep it in the middle. Rails on and off will need flat to start and end.Same with crowns... As far as the stiles... even if there for a pantry, you could use a feather board to keep it firmly planted as the router does its work...


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