# Forstner bit and router?



## Auricle (Apr 29, 2012)

So I'm new to routing and to woodworking in general so sorry if this is a dumb question. I have a 5/8" laminated MDF board that I want to use as a cabinet door. I'm re-using an existing cabinet door hinge but this hinge requires me make a 1 3/8" hole in the door that's about 3/8" deep. It's a pretty standard cabinet door hinge I'm guessing. Anyway, my question is: how do I make this 1 3/8" wide, 3/8" deep hole? I think I use a Forstner bit but can I use a Forstner bit with my plunge router? Is there any special technique I need to do this?

Thanks
Eric


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Don't!
There are templates for those holes for use with the Forstner bit and hand held drill motor.


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

A router is too high speed to use with forstner bits! Use a drill press or hand held drill with great care.


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## PetersCreek (Mar 13, 2012)

The Rockler Concealed Hinge JIG IT® System allows you to drill cup hinge holes using a handheld drill and a 1⅜-inch forstner bit.

The Rockler Concealed Hinge Router JIG IT® allows you to make the required hole using a router equipped with a short-shank guide bushing.

There are other jigs and guides available from other vendors.

I'm in the middle making new cabinet doors for our laundry room and gave these options a good looking over. I opted to buy a benchtop drill press. Great reason to buy another power tool, right?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Auricle said:


> So I'm new to routing and to woodworking in general so sorry if this is a dumb question. I have a 5/8" laminated MDF board that I want to use as a cabinet door. I'm re-using an existing cabinet door hinge but this hinge requires me make a 1 3/8" hole in the door that's about 3/8" deep. It's a pretty standard cabinet door hinge I'm guessing. Anyway, my question is: how do I make this 1 3/8" wide, 3/8" deep hole? I think I use a Forstner bit but can I use a Forstner bit with my plunge router? Is there any special technique I need to do this?
> 
> Thanks
> Eric


Hi Eric - Welcome to the forum
MLCS recommends a max rpm of 500 for a forstner bit that size:
TECHNICAL FAQ
If you look closely at how a forstner bit works, in addition to being extremely dangerous personally, hitting a workpiece with that thing at 10-20,000 rpm would very likely destroy the workpiece. 
While a drill press is probably the best option, a drill stand, like this:
8 in. Drill Stand- Craftsman-Tools-Power Tool Accessories-Drill Sharpeners & Attachments
or drill guide like this:
Amazon.com: General Tool 36/37 Accu Precision Drill Guide: Home Improvement
Would be better.
You could also buy or make a template to do the holes with the router as suggest by PetersCreek here:
Rockler Concealed Hinge Router JIG IT® - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Good Luck


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## Auricle (Apr 29, 2012)

Heh. I'll need your help to convince my wife that I need another power tool . After my original post, I did some googling and quickly discovered that using routers and forstner bits together are a bad idea. Don't really feel like spending a lot of money on either the Rockler jig or a drill press. I might have to go with the idea of using a hand held drill with great care. Or can I make my own "jig" to use with a handle held drill and a forstner bit to control the depth? 

Eric


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## Auricle (Apr 29, 2012)

Just saw jschaben's post after I did my post. Thanks for the info and ideas. I'll think about it and see which way I want to go.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If you know someone with a drill press you can make a drilling jig out of a 4x4 or 2 2x4s laminated together. Clamp the board(s) to the drill press table and drill a hole all the way through the same size as the shank of the forstner bit. Then put the forstner bit in the chuck and drill deep enough to bury the head on the forstner bit. You now have a portable drilling jig. If you want depth control mark a line around the shank that will be even with the top edge of your jig when the hole is deep enough. If you just start the holes by hand before you use the jig you will be able to use the jig to finish them.


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

The forstner bit will be destroyed, and YOU could be injured. I have been dumb enough in the past to put a bit that fit into a router, it spins so fast that the bit seemed to blow apart, I never even got a chance to try to use it. DON'T, DON'T, DON'T do it!!!

(I didn't get hurt that time, but I have decided NOT to try again!)


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## Auricle (Apr 29, 2012)

*Thanks*

Thanks a LOT for the warning. I definitely won't try a forstner bit in my router.

Right now, I'm thinking of making a simple jig like the Rockler Concealed Hinge Router JIG IT and using a guide bushing like PetersCreek and jschaben suggested above.

Thanks all for the suggestions and warnings!

Eric




Jack Wilson said:


> The forstner bit will be destroyed, and YOU could be injured. I have been dumb enough in the past to put a bit that fit into a router, it spins so fast that the bit seemed to blow apart, I never even got a chance to try to use it. DON'T, DON'T, DON'T do it!!!
> 
> (I didn't get hurt that time, but I have decided NOT to try again!)


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

*Test on scrap first.*

What ever you end up using, make a test cut/hole in scrap first.


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## bcfunburst (Jan 14, 2012)

*Drilling Hinge Pockets*



Auricle said:


> Heh. I'll need your help to convince my wife that I need another power tool . After my original post, I did some googling and quickly discovered that using routers and forstner bits together are a bad idea. Don't really feel like spending a lot of money on either the Rockler jig or a drill press. I might have to go with the idea of using a hand held drill with great care. Or can I make my own "jig" to use with a handle held drill and a forstner bit to control the depth?
> 
> Eric


Hi Eric; It sounds like you are using a European style hinge for your cabinet door. I am certain there is a designed drill bit for that spacific job. Since you also live in Canada, try Lee Valley Tools catalogue item # 15J47.21. This is made specificaly for European hinge pockets. If any place has it, they will. Let us know how it works out for you, please.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

All you need is a 35mm(1 3/8") forstner bit that you can get anywhere, 
You can made your own jig very easy,see the ones I have made in my uploads.

The easy one to make is a copy of Rockler jig-it..,you can use router bit with it or a forstner bit...
see the link John posted also.

Jig tip
The hole needed for the forstner bit will be 1 3/8" (35mm) for the router bit way you will be 1 1/2" hole and use a 3/8" router bit and a 1/2" brass guide,plus you will want to use 1/4" thick stock for the router bit way and 3/4" thick stock for the forsnter bit way..(you want the forstner bit in the hole b/4 you spin it..) both ways work great..use the drilled holes in the hinge to clamp the jig in place to your door frame stock...

The forstner bit way you can use your hand drill..
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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

For a really cheap drill press watch craigslist for these drill presses where you supply the drill. Its a frame that holds a drill motor, works like an arbor press, (but nowhere near as substantial). I picked one up at a sale for $10, yes I have a drill press, but this is much smaller and sometimes thats what I need.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

No drill press needed just use the ez bore jig from sommerfeld tools,if you have 150.oo in your pocket that's burning a hole in it. 

In the Shop tests the Easy Bore Jig - YouTube

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Sommerfelds-Hinge-Boring-Jig/productinfo/SHB/

But they do sale a 35mm router bit..if you want to use your router for the job with your shop made jig and template.
http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-1812-Hinge-Boring-Router/dp/B00069IHNW

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## spectacle43 (Jun 20, 2011)

*Forstner Bit in a Router!*


Don't even think of it! The forstner bit is designed to wind it self into the timber.The angle of cut is far too agressive for any router.Drill press only at slow speed!!:nono:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

They show 20 router bits in stock,so to say many are using them in the router,if I had one I would give it a try at low speed on the router,but do note the way they have the blade made,not the norm forstner cutter.

The normal forstner put out BIG chips,it looks like the router bit type will put out smaller chips..

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spectacle43 said:


> Don't even think of it! The forstner bit is designed to wind it self into the timber.The angle of cut is far too agressive for any router.Drill press only at slow speed!!:nono:


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## pal (Feb 13, 2008)

This is the forstner bit used in cabinet shops in their machines to do the cup hole for the hinge. I use it in the plunge router coupled with a simple shop made jig without having any problems.


Regards

Harold


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## Auricle (Apr 29, 2012)

Shipping a $22.75 router bit for $28.00 mean $50. The joys of living Canada . I'll see if I can find it or something similar locally. Lee Valley doesn't seem to carry anything like it. 

But I still think I'll just try to use a plunge bit in a guide with my plunge router using a home made jig (following bobj3's and john's recommendations above). I'll try it out on a scrap piece of wood first and see how it goes. 

Thanks again everybody for your suggestions!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Pal

I forgot _I have one,I got it from eBay I think for 10.oo bucks if I recall it maybe time to try it out in the router 
It's 3/8" but no big deal I got apt.so I can use it in the 1/2" plunge router 
I have a air router that I can get down to 300 rpm's I think I will try it..

http://www.amazon.com/35mm-Wood-Bor...ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1338599075&sr=1-6

==
_


pal said:


> This is the forstner bit used in cabinet shops in their machines to do the cup hole for the hinge. I use it in the plunge router coupled with a simple shop made jig without having any problems.
> 
> 
> Regards
> ...


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## pal (Feb 13, 2008)

Your welcome Bob,
I have the same problem with forgetting what I have and some one comes up with something and it clicks in that I have it.I have to get in and make a larger bit cabinet one day. I also had to buy a 3/8 collet to use the bit, but it does work well and was worth the trouble.

Regards
Harold


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Thanks Pal
> 
> I forgot _I have one,I got it from eBay I think for 10.oo bucks if I recall it maybe time to try it out in the router
> It's 3/8" but no big deal I got apt.so I can use it in the 1/2" plunge router
> ...


Just received one of those from Amazon.. Good price, but cuts about .012" oversized. Rather sloppy fit with euro hinges! My regular 1 3/8" forstner(Grizzly) cuts a much more accurate hole for the hinges. Otherwise cut/hole quality is about the same(both used in drill press.. not router by the way).


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## steamingbill (Jan 13, 2013)

I see 3 types of Forstner bits when I do searches

1. Solid and chunky more like a router bit than a drill bit

Amico 1-3/8" 35mm Wood Boring Tool Woodworking Forstner Bit - Amazon.com

2. Not so solid - cylindrical blades cut the hole
http://www.collingwoodlighting.co.u...catalogue-product_info-null&prodCategoryID=31

3. Same as 2 but with teeth - recommended for cutting into end grain

Steelex D2855 Forstner Bit, 1-7/16-Inch - Amazon.com


There are various drill press speed charts around on the internet - do these recommended speeds for forstner bits apply to all 3 types listed above.

I just bought a set of type 2s (Ultra) for $25 from Bunnings they dont look very strong compared to the first ones. I suppose there are variations on the above with the rolls royce being the type 2 and type 3 above but far more solid and chunky than mine and I'd have to pay far more than $25.

Got to admit when I did my kitchen cupboards 20 years ago I didnt take any notice of recommended speeds - didnt even know about them - just stuck a type 1 bit into the good old hand held drill and made the holes.

Bill


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

steamingbill said:


> I see 3 types of Forstner bits when I do searches
> 
> 1. Solid and chunky more like a router bit than a drill bit
> 
> ...


Type 1 and type 2 links are one and the same! That's also the bit I bought. As I said above, it is .012" over sized and doesn't drill that clean of a hole. All in all although it is inexpensive, the old saying you get what you pay for really applies here!

As for speed for forstners, Yes I would say that should apply to any type!

I mostly run these bits in a drill press. however I do occasionally use them in a hand held drill, but no way in a router as the OP was inquiring!


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Scroll down the page, a 35mm router bit No. 491077 be there, I will admit that I've never considered using a router for that bore 'cause I use my drill press. 

Could see a need if a door is large and bulky enough to make the drill press operation unmanageable but a jig and hand drill option should suffice.


Router Bits for Routers - Festool Power Tools


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## billg71 (Mar 25, 2011)

TomE said:


> Scroll down the page, a 35mm router bit No. 491077 be there, I will admit that I've never considered using a router for that bore 'cause I use my drill press.
> 
> Could see a need if a door is large and bulky enough to make the drill press operation unmanageable but a jig and hand drill option should suffice.
> 
> ...


That's the bit I use in the Festool router(speed all the way down) with their LR32 system for my doors.

Works really well, hinge cups fit tight. Even at the lowest speed it still smokes a little but the bit is well balanced, no vibration. Pricey for sure but a really nice bit.

HTH,
Bill


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## steamingbill (Jan 13, 2013)

Dmeadows said:


> Type 1 and type 2 links are one and the same!



I fixed the links to demonstrate the difference between the two types.

Although I've never considered using a router for what I call the cheap "type 1 - door hinge bits" they appear to be quite a different construction to the bits shown in the other two links.

Bill


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## Sgt45 (Apr 13, 2013)

Hi Eric, I'm sure you've gotten your question answered about using a drill press or hand drill, but just wondering, did you replace European hinges? If so, there is a 35mm forstner bit that is used for that. Hope everything turned out OK.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

billg71 said:


> That's the bit I use in the Festool router(speed all the way down) with their LR32 system for my doors.
> 
> Works really well, hinge cups fit tight. Even at the lowest speed it still smokes a little but the bit is well balanced, no vibration. Pricey for sure but a really nice bit.
> 
> ...


If you enjoy "smoking a little" a $75.00 bit, Have fun!

The $6 Amico bit is pretty much junk... have one , not well balanced, cuts an oversized hole, My 1 3/8" cheap Grizzly forstner cuts a cleaner, more accurate hole. Don't even think of trying that Amico in a router.. it is so unbalanced that nothing good will happen!

As for me I choose to leave *any* forstner to the drill press. Safer in my opinion!


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## malb (Sep 15, 2008)

I used to cut typically about 8000 hinge pockets a year into melamine colourboard door blanks while we were cutting the doors to size, using the standard 3/8'' compression bit used for cutting the doors from the sheet.

It would be possible to do the same thing with a 3/8 or 1/2" bit with a simple template and template guide. The template would be simple rectangular piece of sheet material with a hole drilled through it, diameter equal to the required pocket diameter plus appropriate offsets for the guide and bit selected, and an fence on one side to control the hinge setback. 

Mark out the hinge location, clamp the pattern in place, set bit depth, position router to drop into centre of pocket, plunge and work to edge of template hole, route around the template hole, then clear any waste left inside the hole. Probably 1 minute per hinge socket once set up, using a shop made template and tools/bits/guides you probably have.

If you don't have the gear to cut the hole in the template, it should not be hard to find someone with the gear to cut a single hole into a piece of hardboard etc for you.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18060&site=ROCKLER

www.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000408AA.pdf
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