# New Router Table



## ajh359 (Jul 17, 2008)

I'm building a new router table, the first one that I build just will not do it.
It is 28x36 this should big enough to do what I need. What you think about it?
I still to get the plate and cut the hole, going to use a 3/8 plate.
the top is 3/4 mdf with 1/4 mdf on top and bottom and the laminate on top and bottom.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice clean job AJH

It's going to be a nice router table..

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ajh359 said:


> I'm building a new router table, the first one that I build just will not do it.
> It is 28x36 this should big enough to do what I need. What you think about it?
> I still to get the plate and cut the hole, going to use a 3/8 plate.
> the top is 3/4 mdf with 1/4 mdf on top and bottom and the laminate on top and bottom.


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## ajh359 (Jul 17, 2008)

Thanks for the reply.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Good looking table. Be sure and post some pics when you are finished.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Looks like you are off to a good start Andrew. Keep the pics coming.


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## ajh359 (Jul 17, 2008)

Thanks I will post more pictures soon. Got to get it finish real soon, going to build a set of kitchen cabinets with just 4 tools: new router table, vertical router table, hand help router and table saw. Most work will done with the routers and onlt cutting the plywood sheets with table saw. This is going to be fun, I have friend who has his own cabinet shop said I will be doing it the hard way. 
Andrew


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## VADOC (Feb 25, 2008)

Hi andrew,
looks like your off to a good start, don't forget about dust control, also, how do you plan to attach a fence?
If you can't afford a router lift that is adjustable from the top of the insert I would suggest mounting the top with a piano hinge on the back, so you can easily adjust the bit height,
Good luck and enjoy!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi andrew

I see that VADOC suggested to use a piano hinge on the back side of the plate I do have one on my router plates with hinges on it but they are the pocket hole type, with the pocket hole type you only see 4 flat head screw heads and not the butt of the hinge..

It makes it easy to just flip it up and do just a bit of work on the router plus it holds it in place for you ..

If you want to see how I installed them just ask and I will post a snapshot of it.. 

May I also suggest the fence below...

It's a great one and a great price.. 

Supreme Router Table Fence
http://www.ptreeusa.com/routertableFence.htm

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Here's a snapshot of the hinge plate
See below

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VADOC said:


> Hi andrew,
> looks like your off to a good start, don't forget about dust control, also, how do you plan to attach a fence?
> If you can't afford a router lift that is adjustable from the top of the insert I would suggest mounting the top with a piano hinge on the back, so you can easily adjust the bit height,
> Good luck and enjoy!!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Good looking cabinet Andrew. You might consider mounting your plate offset to one end and installing some shelves for bit storage like the Oak Park table. Having the tray to hold bits handy is priceless. You may want a elaborate fence with hold downs like BJ posted or you may choose to follow the Router Workshop method of a simple HDPE fence and clamps. Both methods work well but which ever way you go be sure dust collection is included. This is to save time on clean up as well as the important health benefits.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi andrew

I did add a snapshot of the hinge plate 
Note this is a 3/16" thick steel plate made for comm.router tables..
I will add it's best to keep your router bits under cover and in a rack or box ..  in your case in the bottom cabinet, the chips and saw dust will fly and b/4 long the holes to hold the bits will fill up with junk and the bits will be hard to get back in or out of the box/rack.

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## ajh359 (Jul 17, 2008)

Thanks for all the replies to my post. I have not work on it for a few days been in the hospital but home now doing better. Like the hinge on the plate but I'm going to be able to lift it in and out, as for the height adjustment going to remake the threaded rod with a handle so I can crank it up and down. As for the dust control going to put dust port in the bottom where the router is and on fence.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Router table Andrew, it looks good enough to go INSIDE the house, probably in the kitchen.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, that's one heck of a router table, it would suit Glenmore perfectly as he has to sit down whilst working. The European style hinges are a great idea.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

Thanks 

It sure would, if Glenmore was near by he could have it  but he can rework his easy, it just takes two pocket brackets made out of Alum. or hardwood...

I need the room 

Hinges makes it easy for some one with a bad back to flip it up and out to do a bit change...just takes one finger to lift it up...and out..  I made it when my back was killing me.. and I didn't want to get on my knees to work on it.

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harrysin said:


> Bj, that's one heck of a router table, it would suit Glenmore perfectly as he has to sit down whilst working. The European style hinges are a great idea.


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## ajh359 (Jul 17, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi andrew
> 
> I see that VADOC suggested to use a piano hinge on the back side of the plate I do have one on my router plates with hinges on it but they are the pocket hole type, with the pocket hole type you only see 4 flat head screw heads and not the butt of the hinge..
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob for you post, I'm going to build a fence like the one you post a link to. But not sure how I'm going to mount it to table. Was thinking about putting 2 T Slots on the ends so I can move it. I seen a T slot made like the angle use to make the fence you posted, so I can attached to the ends of the table but can find where I have seen them. But I'm going to offset the router plate to the left so I will have more table top to the right.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome ajh

May I suggest you make the fence longer than the top by lets say 3" on both ends, then you can clamp it down to the top without the need of tee slot tracks..
It that way you can just turn the hold down blocks and lift the fence off or move it forward or back easy...

I have a set on my router table but they slip in to dovetail slots..works great..that way..but it's one of the things that must be done b/4 the top is glued and screw the the base cabinet...but I have seen one or two with just a dado on the under side of the top also..to slip in the hold down blocks..  they keep the fence square and running true when you move it..

But it takes more work than the norm to get it done.. 

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ajh359 said:


> Thanks Bob for you post, I'm going to build a fence like the one you post a link to. But not sure how I'm going to mount it to table. Was thinking about putting 2 T Slots on the ends so I can move it. I seen a T slot made like the angle use to make the fence you posted, so I can attached to the ends of the table but can find where I have seen them. But I'm going to offset the router plate to the left so I will have more table top to the right.


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## ajh359 (Jul 17, 2008)

*Router lift*

I found this looking Thur some of my books, not a bad way to do it. My try this.


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## ajh359 (Jul 17, 2008)

*Question*

I started this thread my new router table I'm building. I'm waiting on some parts to come in so it can be finish. So I started building a new horizontal router table because the first one I build was to small and it does have a height adjustment like the one that bobj3 build. I hope that it is OK to ask this question in the same post I started.

Bobj3 what is the height of the posts for the router adjustment guides? Hope you understand what I'm trying to said.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi ajh359

This just my 2 cents 

The BMP file, is like jacking up your car and using the fender well, just not made to hold the weight or the load.. it may do it a time or two but it will fail in time. then you will need to replace the router motor housing.. 



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ajh359 said:


> I found this looking Thur some of my books, not a bad way to do it. My try this.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi ajh

The ones I have used are 21" tall ( the Alum. rails that holds the router mounting base plate) that lift and lower the router...But I had to make a offset block ( MDF )that is 2 1/2" thick x 22" wide and 9" tall to hold the rails to the router table cabinet,,,I should note it must be dead on, a true 90 deg.to the top of the router table...and right up to the edge on the router table...

But it can be just about anything you want it to be, it comes down to the plate you want to use...  (3/8" min. it's holding the router at a right angle not a lot of weight but the mass of the router at the right 90 deg.angle) I used a standard drop in router plate that's 
3/8" x 9 " x 12", I want the snap in rings for the most part and it was only 20.oo bucks  and I had two of them hanging on the wall 

Think of a cutting board ,that you can get from Target/K-Mart for 8.oo bucks.. to save a buck or two..  most are right at 3/8" thick but they call it 1/2" thick on the wrapper .or that metric crap..

http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/9782-best-both-worlds.html

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ajh359 said:


> I started this thread my new router table I'm building. I'm waiting on some parts to come in so it can be finish. So I started building a new horizontal router table because the first one I build was to small and it does have a height adjustment like the one that bobj3 build. I hope that it is OK to ask this question in the same post I started.
> 
> Bobj3 what is the height of the posts for the router adjustment guides? Hope you understand what I'm trying to said.


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## ajh359 (Jul 17, 2008)

Thanks for the info, I order 2 router plates from HF and they will next week. I going try to get the post from MLCS like you did if not, I will make them out of a 3x3 oak and route for a Miter T-Track.


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## Wood Doc (May 11, 2010)

Looks like a good plan to me


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