# What kind of bit should I use



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

Hi, I am brand new to using a router and would like some help selecting a bit. In the picture is a wooden airplane wing. If you look at the close-up, there is 1/4" pine filler strip that I need to route off of the spar. I also included a picture of a jig someone told me I should make to place over the spar. I guess I am only asking abojt the bit and I will post the jig question in the other forum unless you can answer here. 

Thanks in advance.


----------



## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

Welcome to the forum.


----------



## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Welcome to Router Forums. I'm sure others will be along soon who may be able to provide a better answer than me.


I'm not real sure about exactly what you want to do and I don't know much airplane terminology, but your jig looks like one that would be used with a router and guide bushing. If you are trimming away a pine strip, most likely you would want to use an up spiral straight bit. The size of the bushing and router bit would be determined by what you are doing, and this part isn't at all clear to me. Maybe closer pictures and pointer arrows would help.

Charley


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> 1... Hi, I am brand new to using a router and would like some help
> 2... selecting a bit.
> In the picture is a wooden airplane wing. If you look at the close-up,
> 3... there is 1/4" pine filler strip that I need to route off of the spar.
> ...


1... Hi and welcome nameless person... Do you need any help w/ knowing your router..
2... 1st suggestion is a planer bit, next is a mortising bit w/ top bearing.. 
3... how wide is the filler and how long of cut do you need/wish to make...
I take it you want to go only a ¼'' deep...
4... w/ the top of the spar having a radius a jig my not be the best approach unless you are intending to match the jig to the curvature of the spar..
5... both Q's are fine...

do you have metal fasteners in the filler piece??
what is the white stuff I see..
would cutting from zero inches to ¼'' and back to zero inches work over the length of a cut???
have you considered an electric plane???


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Charley is right ,what ever the width of the jig determines the max diameter of the router bushing you would install in the base of the router. The bit would fit inside the bushing and would be a straight bit with end cutting capabilities. Essentially you will be planing down the spacers in the spar so set the depth to match the top of the spar. Be sure that the runners on the jig will clear any bolts etc on the sides of the spar so you can slide it along the top. Also make sure the router bushing doesn't protrude below the bottom of the jig. Like Charley pointed out use an up spiral if possible.

Herb

Stick beat me to it.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Charley is right ,what ever the width of the jig determines the max diameter of the router bushing you would install in the base of the router. The bit would fit inside the bushing and would be a straight bit with end cutting capabilities. Essentially you will be planing down the spacers in the spar so set the depth to match the top of the spar. Be sure that the runners on the jig will clear any bolts etc on the sides of the spar so you can slide it along the top. *Also make sure the router bushing doesn't protrude below the bottom of the jig.* Like Charley pointed out use an up spiral if possible.
> 
> Herb
> 
> Stick beat me to it.


doesn't anybody believe in bearing guided bits any more???


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> doesn't anybody believe in bearing guided bits any more???


I do. They are usually an easy solution and allow you make an exact size template.


----------



## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> doesn't anybody believe in bearing guided bits any more???


I might have suggested a bearing bit, but the jig looks more like it is designed for a bushing to me. With so little detail of what the OP wants it's difficult to know what would be the right choice. I think we'll have to wait for him to come back with more information and detail of his needs.

Charley


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If what you want to do is trim the piece on top of the spar and in between the ribs flush with the top of the spar then you can use a straight bit and the jig in this thread. http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/76225-trimming-solid-wood-edge-banding-flush.html


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

Hi everyone. Thanks for the welcome and all the responses. A lot of the terminology is new to me. When I get home from work I will post pictures with arrows pointing out exactly what I want to do in more details, I forget that this is not a Aviation message board so I need to be more explanatory.


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

While at work I took a little time to edit the photos so here goes. The yellow color is the wing spar (cant damage the spar) which runs from the fuselage (airplane body) out to the wing tip. In the green color are the wing ribs and in red outline, this is the quarter inch thick by 1inch wide spruce spar filler that I need to route off. It's very important that I do not touch the wing spar in yellow and the wing ribs in green, if I touch it even one tiny bit with the router big problems. To answer someones question, there was a photo with these little yellow circles, this is wood filler. And yes there are tiny nails in the spar filler that I can remove before routing. I hope this helps.


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

After I route off the spar filler, the wing ribs (green) will be 1/4 inch higher than the spar (yellow)


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

how wide/thick is the spar...


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

The spar filler that I want to route off is 1/4" thin x 1 inch wide (wide as in standing over looking directly down at it)


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

Stick486 said:


> 1... Hi and welcome nameless person.


Name is Abraham


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

I believe this is the bit that you are looking for...
this type of bit, your router and the shown jig should do it...
find it in Italian or USA made and you are golden...
(Freud, Whiteside, CMT)
Chinese made.. not so much...

the jig made to be used w/ a bearing rather than a guide bushing will give you an exact cut placement and reduce the chances of error...
needless to say you'll make a mock up of sorts and practice some before attacking the the real thing...

Note...
cutting w/ a router is direction sensitive...
see the attachments...

.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> The spar filler that I want to route off is 1/4" thin x 1 inch wide (wide as in standing over looking directly down at it)


you will do well w/ a 5/8" dia bit...


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

This is pretty neat! Two guys doing homebuilts in two days. Maybe we need a another specific forum here?
Router Forums - View Single Post - Your Most Demanding Project?
Abraham; the 'hint' about your name was to gently suggest that you might like to fill in a little something about yourself...a mini bio if you like...on your Profile page?
It just makes for friendlier chats. No pressure!


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> Name is Abraham


glad to make your acquaintance Abraham...


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Oops, by the way, they were very serious about making sure _there's no steel parts/fastenings in the router bit path._..very bad juju
Aluminum or brass wouldn't be such a big deal (you can rout either of those).


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> . And yes there are tiny nails in the spar filler that I can remove before routing.


oh man...
*PLEASE* make sure you get every last one...
bad things can and will happen if you hit them to include a possible trip to the ER...


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

The bit isn't the hard thing here, it's your guide template. I would use a top bearing mortise bit but your template is tricky as it has to sit between the ribs and the router has to be able to go over the wing rib so you can route the portion next to the rib. Also, the template you showed won't get the corners. you could finish them with a chisel or you could create a template that allows you to get the corners, too. See the pix for a general idea.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

nicely done Phil...


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Phil`s jig is the same idea as the jig I posted a link to on page one. It will keep you from going down too deep. It won`t keep you from going sideways into a rib so you would need to clamp stop blocks on the ribs to prevent going too far sideways.


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

Stick486 said:


> 2... 1st suggestion is a planer bit, next is a mortising bit w/ top bearing.. I beleive this is what you suggest in your later post
> 
> would cutting from zero inches to ¼'' and back to zero inches work over the length of a cut??? I believe so
> have you considered an electric plane???with my limited knowledge, i dont think a planer will work... I need high precision


...........


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

PhilBa said:


> The bit isn't the hard thing here, it's your guide template. I would use a top bearing mortise bit but your template is tricky as it has to sit between the ribs and the router has to be able to go over the wing rib so you can route the portion next to the rib. Also, the template you showed won't get the corners. you could finish them with a chisel or you could create a template that allows you to get the corners, too. See the pix for a general idea.


WOW! That is fantastic, now building this is the next challenge. I just bought a table saw so let's see


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Phil`s jig is the same idea as the jig I posted a link to on page one. It will keep you from going down too deep. It won`t keep you from going sideways into a rib so you would need to clamp stop blocks on the ribs to prevent going too far sideways.


I also thought of clamping wood on each side of the spar. This won't keep me from hitting the ribs, but like it was said earlier. I will need to finish with a chisel. Is it wrong for thinking to clam wood on the spar as a guide?


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

fire65 said:


> Welcome to the forum.


 Thank you!


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

Stick486 said:


> I believe this is the bit that you are looking for...
> this type of bit, your router and the shown jig should do it...
> find it in Italian or USA made and you are golden...
> (Freud, Whiteside, CMT)
> ...



Is THIS the same bit? What is the exact name?


EDIT: I think I found the bit ??


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

Stick486 said:


> oh man...
> *PLEASE* make sure you get every last one...
> bad things can and will happen if you hit them to include a possible trip to the ER...


Great post, thanks for the safety files I learned a lot.


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Phil`s jig is the same idea as the jig I posted a link to on page one. It will keep you from going down too deep. It won`t keep you from going sideways into a rib so you would need to clamp stop blocks on the ribs to prevent going too far sideways.


What I posted has the "routing slot" (for lack of a better term) that stops at the rib so it should work ok because of the top bearing. Of course a quick spin with SU based on a couple of photos is nothing compared to actually being there to understand the needs.


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> WOW! That is fantastic, now building this is the next challenge. I just bought a table saw so let's see


Table saw will help but you should have a drill press too. And, I would use the router to clean up the slot after I roughed it out with a jig saw


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> Is THIS the same bit? What is the exact name?
> 
> 
> EDIT: I think I found the bit ??


those are the bits...


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> WOW! That is fantastic, now building this is the next challenge.* I just bought a table saw so let's see*


there are volumes here on table saw set up that may be a good thing to look at...


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

PhilBa said:


> What I posted has the "routing slot" (for lack of a better term) that stops at the rib so it should work ok because of the top bearing. Of course a quick spin with SU based on a couple of photos is nothing compared to actually being there to understand the needs.


Sorry, I see it now. I had something else in mind when I looked at it.


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

For making the jig?


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

PhilBa said:


> CEOoftheSOFA said:
> 
> 
> > WOW! That is fantastic, now building this is the next challenge. I just bought a table saw so let's see
> ...


For making the jig?


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> I just bought a table saw so let's see


are you new to table saws???
I can't imagine building a wooden airplane w/o one...


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> For making the jig?


If you have a steady hand, maybe just a hand held drill but I would use a forstner bit to cut out the holes for the end. The preferred way to do that is with a drill press. The idea is that the edge the bit's bearing rides on is best if it is smooth. The part where you get the corners could be square rather than round though. 

I would first design the template for fit on the spar and the ribs and then figure out how much wider the slot by the rib needs to be to get the corners. The issue there is going to be making the "fences" that clamp onto the spar and hold the plate that router sits on. Once you understand the template, then figure out how to build it.


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

Haha, my newly updated profile now explains that I purchased the airplane 50% complete from an estate sale so to answer your question yes. I have maybe used a table saw in technology class about 25 years ago


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

PhilBa said:


> CEOoftheSOFA said:
> 
> 
> > For making the jig?
> ...


Just bought a drill press, so I need to take your advice in building this thing. I really appreciate all the help for newbies such as myself.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> Haha, my newly updated profile now explains that I purchased the airplane 50% complete from an estate sale so to answer your question yes. I have maybe used a table saw in technology class about 25 years ago


that kinda rules out using the table saw to make the slots in the jig...


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> to take your advice in building this thing.


keep forgetting to ask...

is there any kind of radius in the spar that needs to be taken into consideration???..


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

OK, I get the picture. Since your plane is 50% complete, I assume you will have a fair amount of shop work ahead of you. Then, I'd suggest before you start jig building, you equip your shop with some of the basics. Table saw, drill press, probably a band saw, a good bench with a decent vise. Also, lots of hand tools. Baring that, maybe you could get access to a well equipped shop. I think you'd also need metal working capability but I'm no metal worker.


----------



## john60 (Aug 30, 2014)

see you believe in learning how to swim by jumping in the deep end


----------



## john60 (Aug 30, 2014)

also, a good spoke shave and chisel would do this nicely


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

PhilBa said:


> OK, I get the picture. Since your plane is 50% complete, I assume you will have a fair amount of shop work ahead of you. Then, I'd suggest before you start jig building, you equip your shop with some of the basics. Table saw, drill press, probably a band saw, a good bench with a decent vise. Also, lots of hand tools. Baring that, maybe you could get access to a well equipped shop. I think you'd also need metal working capability but I'm no metal worker.


There is no more woodwork to be done. I am only routing off these strips which the original builder mistakenly put on too many. That being said, I have a table saw, now a drill press a bench and vice. I am sure later on these may come handy somehow.


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

john60 said:


> see you believe in learning how to swim by jumping in the deep end


yes indeed. I originally bought the project with the intention to pay someone to complete it. That idea didn't last too long.


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

Stick486 said:


> keep forgetting to ask...
> 
> is there any kind of radius in the spar that needs to be taken into consideration???..


I don't think so

edit: Radius as in bend, no.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> I don't think so
> 
> edit: Radius as in bend, no.


yes...
but more of a curve rather than a bend...


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> yes indeed. I originally bought the project with the intention to pay someone to complete it. That idea didn't last too long.


what kind of skin does the frame get???


----------



## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Can you tell us where you are located? One of our members might be close enough to help get you off to a good start.

Charley


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

Skin as in what is going over the wings? Its fabric


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

CEOoftheSOFA said:


> Skin as in what is going over the wings? Its fabric


And also sheet metal on about 50% of the fuselage and the rest is Fabric.


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

CharleyL said:


> Can you tell us where you are located? One of our members might be close enough to help get you off to a good start.
> 
> Charley


My hanger is located in north New Jersey.


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

This is what a Skybolt looks like when finished...


----------



## CEOoftheSOFA (Jan 13, 2016)

Now I need some advice on how to make the jig for the router. Should I start a thread in the other forum or just keep posting here..?


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

way cool...
where' the go for a ride start???


----------

