# Looking for some advice for a new router table



## good77696e (Mar 27, 2016)

I'm looking to make a decision this week on what I'm going to do about a router table. I'm looking for a bit of advice and I'm thinking I may have found the right spot.

I got a really good deal on a 17" LS positioner and wonder fence. I have a porter cable 7518 router and I'm thinking I will buy the Jessem Mast-R-Lift II from Lee Valley Tools.

I'm trying to decide between building the table and buying the table. I was looking at the INCRA RT2743OS 27-Inch by 43-Inch Offset Router Table Top from Elite tools for $265. I was thinking I would maybe buy this top and build the base myself, but it seems like quite a bit of money and if I buy the lift I don't need the base plate that comes with it which on it's own seems to be $150.

My concern about building the top is trying to cut the opening for the lift to fit just right. I guess you can get a template for that? Is it very hard to do?


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Welcome to the forum . Since you've got the Incra fence I'd opt for the incra top and build the base to your liking . 
There's many threads here about cutting in your own plate . Pretty basic but things can still go south in hurry . 

I've opted to do what you've suggested and bought an incra fence and the 27"/43" top


----------



## good77696e (Mar 27, 2016)

Perfect. Thanks for your input, I think I might try that option.


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

I bought mine too.

I could have built it myself, but at the time, I had a project that needed to get done.

It sounds expensive, but by the time you buy a couple of quality sheets of birch plywood, some melamine for the surface, edge banding, a router plate template, contact adhesive, a J roller, etc. you have spent a good hunk of change. Make a mistake, and it gets even more expensive real quick.

I would buy the top from Woodpeckers and build the base. See my uploads for ideas, no matter which way you decide. I have pictures on how to build a top, as well.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well said Brad . 
As everyone knows it would cost me much more to build a top myself . Baltic birch is super expensive here , and of course I couldn't get it right on the first try .
Then there the time involved etc


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

welcome to the forum oh nameless one..


----------



## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Hello and welcome to the forum..


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Hello and welcome. There is a lot of existing information on this site about router tables, both how to use them and how to build them. Here are 3 links to check out.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/17212-wanted-pictures-your-router-table.html
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/55889-how-table-top-routing.html
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/59905-basic-router-table-information.html


----------



## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

Welcome to the forum N/a


----------



## thomas1389 (Jan 4, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> welcome to the forum oh nameless one..


In lighter moments I sometimes wonder....is it an oversight or is it by design, that someone would access a group, seeking advice, wanting to be a part of something, and yet not introduce themselves, giving those approached, some inkling of who they are and possibly where they're from? John Smith from Burk's Falls, Ontario, perhaps. Not N/A from Earth. Personally, I like to see a name and location from people. It gives me some sort of feeling, a sort of comraderie, a better understanding of their situation, possible resources at hand and so on.
Like Stick for instance, I see a knowledgeable, resourceful, capable mountain man from Hilltop, Colorado. Someone that sees all things, knows all things, lives in a cave, (built himself) chews nails and spits rust, rustic, fearless, and seemingly greatest passion is to watch his dog catch fish. Or Cherryville Chuck. At peace with the world, living in Utopia on the sunshine coast of B.C. growing fruit and nuts in January while a gentle rain of perfume falls on his garden. We in the east, wrapped in wool till April, dashing off to Florida to thaw out in February. To heck with the dollar value, I wanna be warm! Okay, so I lapsed into a little poetic licence but you get what I mean, dontcha??


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

has ro be an oversight..

and I didn't build no cave.. was taken in like Mowgli...
about that passion.. that's after naps and feeding....


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> welcome to the forum oh nameless one..


amended to read - Welcome to the forums Barry..
glad to have ya stop in...


----------



## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Hi Barry. Welcome to our little corner of the 'net.

Some interesting reading, if you have the time: Wanted pictures of your router table Everything you ever wanted to know about router tables, and then some.


----------



## good77696e (Mar 27, 2016)

Thanks everyone. I will take some time and update my profile some more.

I ended up ordering the 27" X 43" router table top from Elite tools. Since I have a lift already they dis-counted the price by $150 for the insert that I don't require.

They tell me it's going to be 4 weeks before it arrives as they had to order it from Incra. That'll give me some time to browse the site a bit more for ideas for the base cabinet.


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

I realize it's too late but for future readers I will make the case for building your own top. I'm not saying you should do it but at least hear the arguments for.

First off, it's not that hard to do. I made mine with a 3/4" BB core and 2 outer laminations of 1/4" hard board. Formica on top, multiple coats of PU on the bottom. Used a template to route out the hole. Lots of good advice on building your own out there. Secondly, most commercial tops are made of MDF which isn't as sturdy as BB - yours will be stronger.. Finally, I get a lot of satisfaction knowing I made the top myself.

By the way, you have a great start with the Incra LS, 7518 and Mast-R-Lift II. It's what I have and love it.


----------



## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Welcome to the forum Barry. :smile:


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

good77696e said:


> Thanks everyone. I will take some time and update my profile some more.
> 
> I ended up ordering the 27" X 43" router table top from Elite tools. Since I have a lift already they dis-counted the price by $150 for the insert that I don't require.
> 
> They tell me it's going to be 4 weeks before it arrives as they had to order it from Incra. That'll give me some time to browse the site a bit more for ideas for the base cabinet.


Good call . You saved yourself some headaches right from the start . The rest should be fairly easy and you can design it for your storage needs . Don't forget dust collection


----------



## good77696e (Mar 27, 2016)

Thanks everyone.

I was surprised to receive my router top already! They told me that it was going to be 4 weeks, but it hasn't even been 1 yet. Now to find some time to get working on this.


----------



## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

good77696e said:


> Thanks everyone.
> 
> I was surprised to receive my router top already! They told me that it was going to be 4 weeks, but it hasn't even been 1 yet. Now to find some time to get working on this.


Congrats!! Now...store that new top flat while you build. No point risking flat by leaning it against a wall in the springtime. (at least the one i ruined was free, and it probably didn't help that the Formica was only on one side of the MDF). 

Have fun--that's a great set-up!!
earl


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

good77696e said:


> Thanks everyone.
> 
> I was surprised to receive my router top already! They told me that it was going to be 4 weeks, but it hasn't even been 1 yet. Now to find some time to get working on this.


Pictures or it did not happen!!1:grin::grin::grin:

Seriously, I would like to see what holes have been pre drilled for the mounting of the fence. Just curious if they still make accommodations for the old style metal mount.


----------



## good77696e (Mar 27, 2016)

No. They don't seem to. The LS positioner that I have has six holes, and the new table I got has 8 and they are spaced out totally different. It looks exactly like it does in the picture so I asked them about it and they said the 17" LS positioner would fit fine.

I will try to post some photo's soon. I think I read somewhere that you have to have a min of 10 comments to do that. Maybe I'm just imagining that.


----------



## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

@good77696e

Barry - you can post pictures from your own computer before you hit the 10 post minimum - that applies to posting links, etc.


----------



## good77696e (Mar 27, 2016)

LS positioner


----------



## good77696e (Mar 27, 2016)

Hole pattern


----------



## good77696e (Mar 27, 2016)

Hey did I mention I got a good deal positioner system? The system is $599+ tax at Lee Valley. I found this used and got it for $225.


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

good77696e said:


> Hole pattern


I am glad I got mine when I did. They do not seem to be backward compatible any more. Sure, you could drill your own holes for whatever older stuff you have, but I prefer letting the mfg screw things up than me!:grin::grin::grin:

Thanks for posting pictures and congratulations on your new table top and fence combo. Sounds like you got a great deal. That more than pays for the table top.

Well done. Now you can focus on the rest of the table.

Good luck and keep us posted.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Barry; welcome!
Another mail order seller up here N. of 49 is KMS Tools...out here on the West Coast, but that's what shippers are for, eh? 

https://www.kmstools.com/woodworkin...ry-23060000/routers-and-accessories-23060800/
Home page...monthly specials:
https://www.kmstools.com/


----------



## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Those two sets of holes are for mounting the 17" positioner (position closer to the cut-out) or the 25" (farther from the cut-out). One could also mount the 17" at the back holes for working with wider stock, but then a baseline measurement to the center of the bit must be made.

Barry--you should find that the bottom of the carriage (gold part with the red locking handle) has 3 t-slots, the outer two of which will line up with the width of the mounting holes in the table top. If the current plywood mount is removed, you should be able to insert t-bolts in the holes in the table from the top side, place washer & nut loosely on the underside of the table, and slide the carriage over the t-bolt heads. From your pictures, it looks like the fence mounting bracket (silver steel part-end of positioner) is high in its slots to accommodate the thickness of the plywood layers. That bracket can be adjusted once the carriage is set in position so the fence will ride at the proper height.

Mine was a slightly used unit when i bought it, i found that downloading the manual and treating the set-up like it was new made life much easier for me. At that time, i ordered all the little screws from Incremental, since then i've taken to buying 1/4-20 "weld nuts" and flange bolts from McMaster-Carr here in the USA, you may have a similar vendor in Canada. I can't recall for sure, but i don't think a 1/4-20 bolt head fits in the Incra track--but don't quote me on that.

Even if you end up spending $15 on hardware (if that much)--you still got a steal of a deal!! Good luck.
earl


----------



## good77696e (Mar 27, 2016)

greenacres2 said:


> Those two sets of holes are for mounting the 17" positioner (position closer to the cut-out) or the 25" (farther from the cut-out). One could also mount the 17" at the back holes for working with wider stock, but then a baseline measurement to the center of the bit must be made.
> 
> Barry--you should find that the bottom of the carriage (gold part with the red locking handle) has 3 t-slots, the outer two of which will line up with the width of the mounting holes in the table top. If the current plywood mount is removed, you should be able to insert t-bolts in the holes in the table from the top side, place washer & nut loosely on the underside of the table, and slide the carriage over the t-bolt heads. From your pictures, it looks like the fence mounting bracket (silver steel part-end of positioner) is high in its slots to accommodate the thickness of the plywood layers. That bracket can be adjusted once the carriage is set in position so the fence will ride at the proper height.
> 
> ...



Thanks Earl. I will have a look at that this evening when i get home.


----------



## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Here's a few pics (forgive the clutter/dust/dirt/and maybe a dead fly) of what you'll be looking at. One shows the bottom of the carriage and the 3 slots i mentioned, and i managed to hold up the type of bolt you could use if you don't have the official connections. The other shows the fence mounting plate. Looking at the way the previous owner had that set up on plywood--i'd guess that he had a smaller table and that was how he compensated to mount. My table is 32"wide, but only 24" deep...so i added a 14" extension off the back to mount my positioner on. Not as elegant as the 43" table--i'll get there someday!!

earl


----------



## creative (Aug 17, 2015)

@good77696e

I had a similar decision to make a few months ago. I ended up going with a complete Woodpecker setup - SuperFence, Large phenolic top, variable pressure featherboards, steel table stand. Will probably buy a wheel kit for it in the near future.

When I was cross-referencing different router table components on the market, I learned some things that were not obvious or frequently considered, but were actually really important for the long run. For your convenience, here they are:

1. Incra's fence has a long and uncollapsable guide rail - which creates lots of unusable space on your tabletop.
2. The microadjust for the Woodpecker fence is just as useful for fine adjustments, and it frees up all the table space that's otherwise consumed by Incra's slide rail, but there's no numbers on the Woodpecker adjustment dial, so ll you have to be a lot more careful with it, or use a wixey digital height gauge to double check microadjustments.
3. The steel table stand under a phenolic table can be almost as important as the tabletop itself. A large phenolic tabletop can actually sag (tiny amount, but enough to matter) if the steel base it's bolted to isn't level. Since you're already in the market for Incra, I'll assume precision is a priority for you, so preventing tabletop sag should be too.
4. Whatever fence you get, try to get one with the ability to offset one side for edge jointing. I didn't have the money or room for a jointer, so I made sure I got a router table setup that could give me a straight edge.
5. I've got a Jessem Mast-R-Lift II and it works incredibly well. Fit like a glove in my Woodpecker tabletop. Built like a tank. Height adjustments are a breeze, and there's minimal slop in the threads. The magnetic covers are easy to interchange. It works well with my Dewalt 2 1/4 hp router, and if I upgrade to a 3+hp PC router, it'll fit in the same lift. The spindle lock ensures there's no vertical slop while you're routing (a feature that's not on some of the cheaper lifts). And, the lift easily brings the router high enough for above table bit changes.

Takeaways:
1. If you're buying high priced equipment for precision, like the Mast-R-Lift II, you should make sure the rest of your setup doesn't compromise your ability to be precise (i.e. sag in tabletop, uneven frame, etc.)
2. If you decide to buy a full routing table package, try to buy it direct from the manufacturer, and they will often give you a discount for placing a high value order directly. Most prices are set high to generate revenue for third party retailers, and when a manufacturer doesn't have to share revenue with a third party retailer, they can make as much or more profit even while offering a lower price to the consumer. Basically, get on the phone with them, and ask them to share some of their transaction savings.
3. Try to give yourself as much free table space as possible... because, when have you ever looked at a work surface and said, "there's too much room."

Hope this helps! And sorry it's so long


----------

