# Worktable for router table



## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Hello, I have a few questions and hope to get a few answers..I am building a cabinet to support the new cast iron (heavy ) router table I just got so here is question 1) when applying a peice of 3/4" mdf for the top should I use nails,screws or just drill a hole through it and the 2x4 and bolt , I have never used mdf before and am curious???? Question 2) I used the new table today and the aluminum insert plate is very hard to get flush seems like when tighten one adjustment screw it throws the others a little off it took about 40 minutes to get it right is this normal or is there a secret to this ????? Thanks for any input


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

I was lookin at my work so far today and think if I were to drill holes just right size for wood screws to fit through the mdf and just let the screw bite into the 2x4 I should be o.k...???


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Typical wood screws tend to fracture MDF, so the recommended screws are similar to dry-wall screws, but coarse thread. Pilot holes are essential. Drilling the MDF for the full diameter, and screwing into the underlying solid wood, as you're thinking, is probably a better option.

As to adjusting the leveling screws, yep, it can be a pain, since the four corners can get to rockin'.


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Yes sir it rocks and if tighten a screw just a tad to much it will actually bow the plate ewver so slightly up, yet another reason to learn PAAAITTTIEENCE


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Thanks Ralph for the vote of confidence on the pilot hole idea... Will hit that on Friday and hopefully finish this project having picked up my electrical boxes today will also be mounting a remote on/off switch and outlet on the cabinet top and back as this will be mobile


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## david cooksey (Jun 3, 2011)

I would use Birch Plywood not MDF or OSB Or Melamine


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