# Ridgid R4512 Table Saw...possible purchase...?



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Hello all...I am wondering if a (presumably) little used R4512 Ridgid Table saw is worth $375...? HD sells it new for $549.
I admit that I haven't done a lot of research on the saw yet but I think some of you own this model...would love to hear your opinions on the saw and the price...

Thanks in advance, Nick


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Hello all...I am wondering if a (presumably) little used R4512 Ridgid Table saw is worth $375...? HD sells it new for $549.
> I admit that I haven't done a lot of research on the saw yet but I think some of you own this model...would love to hear your opinions on the saw and the price...
> 
> Thanks in advance, Nick


no... maybe 150$... tops...
somebody is dumping that saw for a reason...
listen to Charlie Woodchuck....


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

I have the same saw, Nick, and I'm happy with it. For the things I make it works just fine. I added a Leecraft zero clearance blade insert and recently replaced the original miter gauge with an Incra 1000HD. The one-step pedal drops the wheels down and makes it easy to move around in the shop, then puts it solidly on the floor when the wheels are up It also does a pretty fair job of capturing the sawdust with its built-in chute that covers the bottom.


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## Salty Dawg (Jan 24, 2014)

I bought mine reconditioned for $275 & it has done what I needed it to do so far, I can cut a full sheet a plywood in half now.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Nickp said:


> Hello all...I am wondering if a (presumably) little used R4512 Ridgid Table saw is worth $375...? HD sells it new for $549.
> I admit that I haven't done a lot of research on the saw yet but I think some of you own this model...would love to hear your opinions on the saw and the price...
> 
> Thanks in advance, Nick


Hi Nick. Not familiar with the 4512. I have the 4511 and am very happy with it.

You can also check here: Rigid Forum for more information about it.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

In January 2013 i bought the Craftsman version (21833) brand new in box for under $350 using a variety of discounts at a Sears. Actually, bought it online while sitting in the store parking lot to save something like $75 compared to buying it "in-store". The Ridgid version is 13 amp, c-man 15 amp. The c-man included dado insert, extra cost at Ridgid. Beyond that virtually identical. Good saw, better with the Kreg miter gauge (i have an Incra 1000 HD i've put into service yet--no complaints on the Kreg). Factory fence is okay, but finnicky with the set screw adjustment to keep it square--so I also added an Incra TS-LS fence which is much nicer. 

I'd not hesitate to purchase either of those if not abused, but...Used at all, without getting some extras--i'd not be a buyer at over $250 and that would take being in pretty doggone nice shape. If i were selling mine today, with the Kreg miter gauge and Incra--i'd not expect to get more than $550 if that. 

Just my opinion.

earl


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## Selwyn Senior (Jan 11, 2014)

Rick,
I bought a Rigid R4512 from Home Depot in May. I am very impressed with the saw. Set up was very easy and there was only one adjustment needed of one degree. The fence is solid and easy to move. The other area that impressed me is that it comes with a life time warranty. I damaged the anti kick back pawls. It was 100 per cent my fault. I contacted Rigid and had a replacement part within a week. I am in Canada and the part came out of the states. I'm now considering other Rigid tools and they were not on my radar before.


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

Woodchuck1957 said:


> Hi Nick. The Ridgid is an import, I'd look for a used American made Delta, Rockwell, or a Powermatic Contractors table saw. One with a Biesemeyer fence or a Unifence preferably. If not, there are other good aftermarket fences that will fit those saws. I've had a Delta 34-445X that came with the Unifence since 1995 when I bought it new, it will probably be the last table saw that I'll ever need.


I agree. There's no comparison between the above mentioned saws and the plastic imported stuff!


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Thank you all so much...especially for the quick response. It certainly pays to ask...

I'm going to continue my shopping as I'm in no hurry right now. The Ridgid lifetime is a nice thing but sure it doesn't help on a used purchase. I will take a peek at a new one though...

Charlie (Woodchuck)...are there any years I should stay away from in the brands you mentioned ?

Thanks again for all your advice.


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## Lrryfrrw (Apr 16, 2014)

Hi Nick,
I have a 4511 model. I paid 300.00, the guy wanted 350.00. It is the granite top model and I just love it to death. My King steel top would try to rust in humid conditions, but that granite top just shines with the paste wax on it. The motor was only 110 volts but I changed it over to 220v which gives it more torque. The saw is built something like a cabinet saw. When you line the blade up you move the whole table top to the saw. That's it forever, not like a contractor's saw where the trunion is hooked to the table and you have to constantly check for alignment. The wheels on the base let you move the saw in any direction and push a petal and down it goes placing the saw to the floor. This saw cuts very accurately and I would buy it again. It has a tape glued to the fence rail. When you move the fence to the desired measurement, push down on the lever and no movement, it is bang on. The fence rails were two piece - that did suck, so I replaced booth front and back with aluminum two inch square tubing and angle. The fence anchors both front and back to make an accurate rip. Another negative is that sawdust will spray all over the table regardless of my two HP dust collector. However when I put the blade guard on it works much better. It does pass the coin test. I hope this helps. 
PS
I would not buy the saw if it has a table top with cheap steel plating rather than forged steel or granite.


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## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

Rick knowing you have already had a lot of feed back, I would like say something. I purchased my saw new and paid a bit more than you will have to pay. I have the same saw, purchased it about 18 months ago. I use it most every day. It has been great. I did have to change the blade. When finished setting it up out of the box, it was as true as my older saw that was true to .003. Look it over check the gears and check it for overall care and use. Check that the lift and wheels work right. For me a great saw.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

My rule of thumb with buying most machinary used, is if it less than 10 years old and in good shape, the price should be around 50% of current retail for the equivalent machine. In the case of that Ridgid, I wouldn't go a dime over $275. Anything beyond that, you might as well pay retail and get the warranty.

Knowing that the box stores will put them on sale at some point is something to consider, though it may not be a good negotiating point with the seller. It comes down to, are you willing to wait till one goes on sale or get the one if you can negotiate down to 50% of retail. 

Note, there are some tool brands that you won't be able to follow that 50% rule. Powermatic, Festool, and Sawstop are among those brands. Ridgid, Craftsman, or any other box store brand, stick with the rule, and you will get one for a fair price.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Though the original post is about 10 months old, I thought it worth responding for future buyers.

There is (has been?) an issue with some of these saws maintaining blade alignment at different blade heights. Google "ridgid r4512 blade alignment issue" for lots of info on this. It looks like ridgid has been less than flexible on this issue (pun semi intended). If buying used, you should verify whether the saw in question has this problem. At least with a new purchase, you can return it.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Woodchuck1957 said:


> ... Going from 110V to 220V does not give it more more power, both voltages use the same amount of amps...


No, the don't use the same amps... they use the same watts. 240v will use half the amps of the same motor on 120V. You are correct there is no difference in torque or power unless you have really inadequate wiring(long extension cords for example).


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Dmeadows said:


> No, the don't use the same amps... they use the same watts. 240v will use half the amps of the same motor on 120V. You are correct there is no difference in torque or power unless you have really inadequate wiring(long extension cords for example).


about those amp ratings for tools and motors...

1. AMPS — amp ratings generate a lot of confusion in the marketplace as to what this rating indicates. Some to a lack of understanding of motor characteristics but some of this misunderstanding is due to purposefully misleading information advertised by manufacturers....
(Can we say Sears here???) 
We have all seen advertising literature with phrases like "delivers 8.0 full amps of power!" This is not correct terminology....

A universal motor is not a very efficient machine... In some cases up to 50% of the electrical energy the tool is using is not converted into useful torque but is lost as generated heat.... 
The amp rating of a tool indicates the electrical current the tool is capable of carrying for a theoretically indefinite amount of time without degrading the motor insulation system or other electrical components...
In a UL rated product the motor insulation system is designed to withstand, typically, 105ºC temperature for approximately 20,000 hours.... After that, the insulation system will break down causing motor failure... 

2. Amps — An induction motor amp rating is the electrical current drawn by the motor when operating at the rated horsepower load. This amp value is given to assist the user in assuring an appropriately sized voltage supply line is feeding the unit. A user should know the electrical current required by the motor under load, so that the voltage supply line is verified as capable of carrying this current without causing either: 
1) an excessive voltage drop to the motor...
2) heating of the supply line/wire/cord causing a hazard.....

Most electric motors are easier to start at higher voltage all for the same amperage draw... at 240V a smaller diameter circuit wire may be permitted making the circuit is a little less costly.....

on a long circuit, the voltage drop because the inherent resistance of the wire will be less at 240 volts than at 120.... but, higher voltage circuits are potentially more dangerous..... all in all, the electric bill is the same (120 vs 240V), the 240V motor has a little easier time starting, a little longer life and the wiring less costly over a 120V motor.....


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Woodchuck1957 said:


> 240V still uses the same total amount of amps, it's split into two hots instead of just one as it is with 120V. Pluging a piece of machinery into a inadequate circuit that has other things running on it can also hinder motor performance, and can shorten the life of the motor.


yup, and your explanation sure beats the snot out of mine for simplicity...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Woodchuck1957 said:


> Stick, we must of posted at the same time, I didn't see yours before. As far as simplicity, I'm a simple kinda guy.


simple or complex can be defined by looking to see if your "lab coat" buttons up the front or has straps and ties in the back like mine does....


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Thank you all again...and Charlie, thanks for the assurance on the years.

Phil...thanks for the heads up on the issue...and Mike, thanks for the "rule of thumb" it will be very helpful to do some shopping.

I've been googling for "___Delta, Rockwell, Powermatic, etc...____ contractor table saw" and have found many different models made over the years...cheeezzz, this ain't easy...

Right now I have a plastic saw from HD that does well enough for the home projects...I haven't undertaken anything more delicate yet. So good thing is I'm not rushed for time...

Thank you all again...oh, and the lesson on 120 vs 240 was very helpful...thanks for that...

Nick


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## pagedeveloper (Sep 17, 2014)

So thank you from someone looking for a saw as well. I have though about buying used, but more of the used ones are as much as a new one. What would be a good site to look for a saw?? Also what is the difference in a saw?? I see contractors, and other names, but not what they are. Sorry for a double question...

If I need my hand slapped for the double question, it is out, just be gentle...


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## craigwbryant (Jan 14, 2013)

So, just a personal story on the R4512.

I bought one, brand new in April 2013. (Technically my wife claims she bought it for me as a promotion/early Father's day gift, but since she doesn't work and my income was used, I say I bought it, but I digree). Part of the reason for purchasing new was to take advantage of Ridgid's lifetime service agreement, which is not technically a "warranty" but still valuable. 

I loved the saw and built two projects with it over about 4-5 months. Then one morning after installing a a dado stack the blade wouldn't turn and I could smell a strange odor coming from inside the saw. I quickly cut the power and called Ridgid. I took the saw back to the HD where it was purchased and they sent it out to Ridgid for service, this took about 3 weeks. WHen I picked up the saw I noted that there was a significant amount of rust on the tabletop, some of the handles on the fence and other parts had some minor damage, and in general it just did not look like the saw had been well taken care of in shipment.

After getting the saw back my father and I were preparing to do a project, installed a rip blade, and before putting any wood to the blade I just kicked on the power and listened for a moment. Immediately we both said "something's not right". I contacted Ridgid again and explained my frustrations with the condition of the saw and the strange noise. Within a few minutes I was on the phone with one of their master tool mechanics who listened to the saw startup and said "bring it back". So we did, and another 4 weeks later I got the saw back and it now runs properly.

I explained all this so that you can understand why I advocate for buying this saw NEW and registering for the LSA. If I had purchased the saw used I would have been either (a) out of pocket for the cost of these repairs or (b) had a ~$300-400 boat anchor in my garage/shop and would be back in the market for another saw. 

All this considered I still consider this saw one of the best values, dollar for dollar, available. It meets all my needs, and I would think would meet the needs of most hobbyist woodworkers. I have replaced the mitre gauge with a Kreg mitre gauge. I also use Freud Diablo blades instead of the junk stock blade that's included, but this is a cost you would have with any saw as the included blades are useful as coasters to protect your benchtop and not much more typically.

Hope this helps.


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

Sorry to sound cynical here however had you picked up a quality used US made saw you may not have had any problems with it. Speaking for myself, I dont like Asian stationary tools. I dont think that the quality and particularly the castings compare to the older US machines. The vast majority of my workshop is made up of used Delta-Rockwell and Powermatic machinery. The oldest is my 1949 Delta lathe. I just installed some new bearings in it and its good to go for probably another 20-30 years. It's not for everyone I guess.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bricknhank said:


> sorry to sound cynical here however had you picked up a quality used us made saw you may not have had any problems with it. Speaking for myself, i dont like asian stationary tools. I dont think that the quality and particularly the castings compare to the older us machines. The vast majority of my workshop is made up of used delta-rockwell and powermatic machinery. The oldest is my 1949 delta lathe. I just installed some new bearings in it and its good to go for probably another 20-30 years. It's not for everyone i guess.


kudos...


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## craigwbryant (Jan 14, 2013)

As usual folks can't wait for a chance to poo-poo new stuff and belittle those who purchase it all while extolling the virtues of grabbing some "old arn". I was attempting to share a story of a company that makes a solid product, and when an issue did arise stood solidly behind said product and their service agreements. The issue that occured with mine (a bad pulley) was just one of those things that occurs in whatever small percentage of machined parts (I'm an engineer, trust me, every mechanical item made has a failure rate, it's unavoidable), and everyone I dealt with at Ridgid along the way was nothing but professional, polite, and helpful. I suppose that good news part of the story was completely lost on folks who simply see red any time someone recommends purchasing a tool made after Eisenhower left office. 

For what its worth, I do have an older Delta jointer (not sure of the age) that I bought used on Craigslist and its been a great tool. As I said, the TS was a gift from my wife that celebrated several very large life events, so we splurged the cash for brand new and getting some peace of mind with a service agreement that would not be available on any used saw.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Craig, I think you will see all possible opinions come across this (or any other forum). Motivations have about as wide a range, too. Old "arn" can be good but it takes the right mindset and an investment in time that many do not have. I wouldn't let it get it get to you. 

Your tale of Ridgid (I hate deliberately misspelled brand names) doing what is right is good to hear because I have always been highly cynical of their "lifetime warrantee". The whole saga of the blade alignment problem did a fair amount of damage to their reputation among woodworkers. You are a much more patient man than I - not having my saw to use for a couple of months would have turned me pretty sour.

As to Asian vs American. I think this is a red herring. The real issue is the company that stands behind the tool - QA and support. Look at Grizzly - Chinese or Taiwanese manufacture but their products work pretty well and their support makes a huge difference. Then look at Harbor Freight (aka Central Machinery) - often times the same basic product but cheapened down and lousy QA (if any at all). Sure, they take returns but who wants to have to return a product? I mostly avoid their woodworking tools. The nice thing about newer tools is they have features not found in old "arn" (like riving knives, for example).


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

A few years ago I was given a vintage '30s era lathe. I ended up replacing it with a new lathe, that was made in Asia. This may come as shock to many, but the new lathe was made far better than the vintage lathe. The new lathe is a midi lathe that I paid well under $1000 for it, so it is nowhere near a high-end lathe. I don't believe we can put a blanket statement that old vintage is better than modern, as it isn't always true.

Someone pointed out to me that my new lathe has a plastic cover, where the old lathe had no plastic at all. I replied, that is true. However, the plastic cover is simply there to keep anything from getting wedged (like fingers) into the pullies. The old lathe..... The pullies were completely out in the open.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> As to Asian vs American. I think this is a red herring.


I would think keeping our money here would be a bigger issue instead of exporting it...


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## craigwbryant (Jan 14, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> Craig, I think you will see all possible opinions come across this (or any other forum). Motivations have about as wide a range, too. Old "arn" can be good but it takes the right mindset and an investment in time that many do not have. I wouldn't let it get it get to you.
> 
> Your tale of Ridgid (I hate deliberately misspelled brand names) doing what is right is good to hear because I have always been highly cynical of their "lifetime warrantee". The whole saga of the blade alignment problem did a fair amount of damage to their reputation among woodworkers. You are a much more patient man than I - not having my saw to use for a couple of months would have turned me pretty sour.
> 
> As to Asian vs American. I think this is a red herring. The real issue is the company that stands behind the tool - QA and support. Look at Grizzly - Chinese or Taiwanese manufacture but their products work pretty well and their support makes a huge difference. Then look at Harbor Freight (aka Central Machinery) - often times the same basic product but cheapened down and lousy QA (if any at all). Sure, they take returns but who wants to have to return a product? I mostly avoid their woodworking tools. The nice thing about newer tools is they have features not found in old "arn" (like riving knives, for example).


In the interest of full-disclosure, I have to say that the length of time it took for me to resolve the issue and Ridgid's great customer service for this is part of why I have a positive opinion. In the middle of this whole situation I had to relocate from Southwest VA to Kansas City, KS (I'm active-duty army). Ridgid's customer service folks didn't even bat an eye when I explained this. The saw was moved by the Army from VA to KS in Dec/Jan and already had an appointment at the service center in KC before it was loaded on the truck in VA. While I could have easily seen many companies being "frustrated" by this situation, Ridgid didn't let it phase them one bit and they truly were interested in making sure that I was happy with the saw. And, no, I get no financial kickbacks from Ridgid for telling the story, I just believe in giving credit where credit is due, and so far as I'm concerned Ridgid's customer service certainly deserves some kudos for their handling of the matter.


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> As to Asian vs American. I think this is a red herring. The real issue is the company that stands behind the tool - QA and support. Look at Grizzly - Chinese or Taiwanese manufacture but their products work pretty well and their support makes a huge difference. Then look at Harbor Freight (aka Central Machinery) - often times the same basic product but cheapened down and lousy QA (if any at all). Sure, they take returns but who wants to have to return a product? I mostly avoid their woodworking tools. The nice thing about newer tools is they have features not found in old "arn" (like riving knives, for example).


I'm sorry, I have to disagree. In my opinion there is no way that the new Chiwanese woodworking machinery compares to the Quality US made (old "Arn") from the 30's through the 70's, maybe into the 80's with some manufacturers. I agree that it may not be for everyone. It may take time to find the machine that you want and then once found it may need some TLC to get it back to new condition however, once found and restored if need be, in most cases they are far superior machines to the new crap. To claim that a Powermatic planer from the 60's would be of equal quality to a Grizzly planer purchased now or a Delta Unisaw from the 50's to a Ridgid table saw of today seems like quite a stretch to me. 

That said, if someone feels that an Asian saw is right for them because it's convenient, and new and has a warranty that's understandable. But it's going to be hard to convince me that the new stuff is of better quality than "old Arn"


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Bricknhank said:


> I'm sorry, I have to disagree. In my opinion there is no way that the new Chiwanese woodworking machinery compares to the Quality US made (old "Arn") from the 30's through the 70's, maybe into the 80's with some manufacturers. I agree that it may not be for everyone. It may take time to find the machine that you want and then once found it may need some TLC to get it back to new condition however, once found and restored if need be, in most cases they are far superior machines to the new crap. To claim that a Powermatic planer from the 60's would be of equal quality to a Grizzly planer purchased now or a Delta Unisaw from the 50's to a Ridgid table saw of today seems like quite a stretch to me.
> 
> That said, if someone feels that an Asian saw is right for them because it's convenient, and new and has a warranty that's understandable. But it's going to be hard to convince me that the new stuff is of better quality than "old Arn"


Well, people are free to disagree. However, I'd like to see an old US made planer with a helical head or dust port. While I don't disagree that old US made tools are great, I think you can't apply a blanket statement. Sometimes progress does improve on the old. It's really about the company, not the source. 

And by the way, you would never hear me arguing that anything Ridgid even vaguely approaches the quality of a powermatic or delta unisaw.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

I am here to keep this in perspective and peaceful. I have to keep an open mind and see what is now and reality.

What could be said about modern American (US) saws these days doesn't really matter does it? Because, as being made in, that animal doesn't really exist anymore.

Saying "all" is a blanket statement that doesn't wash as true. Altendorf has a plant in China. Owned by them, supervised by their own staff. Quality at a lower price. Their high-end saws are still made in Germany, but that was a brand/marketing decision. A Chinese company bought out Delta and decided that making their upper-end saws in Canada was good for their brand. This is not new and is just the continuing saga. It will continue with other companies, countries, in another time. And people will continue to talk about it.

I've owned old iron. I'm still selling my Rockwell. I outgrew it and needed something with more capabilities. Then there are spot safety inspections and worker safety. I replaced it with a European product, through a US dealer. Why? I don't think buying a product that fits me and what I do, makes me a bad person, just because it wasn't available in the US, because a US Saw did not exist in what I needed. I supported a US dealer, who spec'ed it out, had it made, and would supply local warranty support.

The reality is that arguing about this is getting old and displays a blurry sense what really exists these days. Better to deal with what does exist and set the perspective with that. Trash talk, without weight in how it relates to what is available, is not the smart thing to do.

Relating strictly to equipment-- I'm on both sides of this. Sentiment to old. Needs and safety requirements for new. But we _can_ discuss this without being hurtful and/or without waving a flag. Blind pride can get you into trouble with those kinds of decisions.


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> Well, people are free to disagree. However, I'd like to see an old US made planer with a helical head or dust port. While I don't disagree that old US made tools are great, I think you can't apply a blanket statement. Sometimes progress does improve on the old. It's really about the company, not the source.
> 
> And by the way, you would never hear me arguing that anything Ridgid even vaguely approaches the quality of a powermatic or delta unisaw.


I have not converted my Powermatic Model 100 planer to a *helical head* but they certainly are available, even a Shelix is available. This photo of my 4" *dust port* on my 12" PM 100 planer doesn't show the business side but you can see it and it works very well. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/73mtqn0o9mvx4jm/2012-11-21 10.54.26.jpg?dl=0


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## ansel (Nov 26, 2013)

I purchased a new 4512 from HD about a year ago. This was after unsuccessfully looking for a good quality used table saw on Craigslist for about 6 months and doing plenty of online research (it's how I originally found this forum). I have been happy with mine for the uses I have put it through, none of which have required super demanding tolerances. But I am responding to let you know that I purchased mine new for less than you are thinking of paying for one used. How? My local HD accepted a 25% off any one item coupon from HF, plus another $75 off for opening a HD credit card. It was on the day after Thanksgiving, not sure if they offer the credit card bonus regularly. So I ended up with the Lifetime Service Agreement on a new saw at a much better price than anything I could find of equal or greater quality on Craigslist and much better quality than anything else I could find at the same price for new products. Also, I haven't yet experienced any of the issues that are noted by some of the reviews that are out there. Maybe I have been lucky so far. Good luck with your decision.


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