# Anyone ever cut a slot in schedule 40 PVC pipe?



## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

I have a piece of 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe that I need to cut a pair of matching parallel slots about 10 to 11 inches long and 1/2 inch wide in. One 1/2 inch channel per side on opposite sides. I'm wondering if there is a safe way to do this on the router table. 

What I'm doing is building a rudder for a small plastic boat using the pipe as the shaft and a plastic cutting board as the rudder itself. Totally waterproof. The board is 1/2 inch thick. I want to "split" one end of the pipe lengthwise about 10 or 11 inches and insert the board between the two halves, and then bolt it in place with predrilled holes drilled in the pipe prior to making the cut. 

I have had several ideas for making the cut. All involve clamping the pipe into a jig to prevent it from rotating or moving, drill a 1/2 inch hole all the way through the pipe at the end of the proposed slot location, and then push the pipe through:
(a.) the tablesaw four times, cut once, flip and cut again, then move fence 1/2 inch and repeat.
(b.) the router table using a 1/2 inch bit, cut once, flip and cut again, or (and this scares me to death) use a 1/2 inch bit tall enough to span the pipe and cut both slots at once (this one I think I'll skip).
(c.) the bandsaw, use a fence and cut once, move fence 1/2 inch and cut again. The trouble is I have seen my blade drift in straight cuts and haven't yet worked this out. I know I should but just haven't yet. I'd rather go fishing 😁 but I need a boat rudder first. 😂


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

router table and spiral bit...
plunge and then cut..
make sure the pipe is trapped between the fence and a parallel guide board..
be sure to use hold down feather boards..


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

I would use the band saw - you're only making a cut less than a foot so how much drift can you have - go slow. No need to move the fence after the first cut. Make the cut, then rotate the piece and make the second cut with the other side against the fence.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Is it not safe to simply enter at the end of the pipe with a straight bit, even just doing one side at a time? I only have a 1/4 inch spiral. Didn't really want to have to buy anything else to get the job done.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

The band saw feels like the safest way. I will try some scrap first and see how it works. 

PVC is something I'd like to work with more often. I have cut it for years using a miter saw, and saw videos of it being kerfed on a table saw but also heard warnings of it exploding while doing so. I thought I'd ask some questions before just diving in. The lack of lots of videos and info on using routers and table saws with the stuff has me thinking it's not done much. I did use the router table to round over the edges on the ends of some pipe to make rod racks, and it worked well but that's not the same as cutting a groove.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Blades or bits with a hook angle can grab the plastic and it can explode when it happens. There are bits for cutting plastic and they have what the makers describe as "O" flutes. I would also think that a fiberglass bit should work like this one but I haven't tried it on plastic: https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Tool-F...ss+router+bit&qid=1554003108&s=gateway&sr=8-1 While I was looking for that link I saw this one about spirals: https://www.amazon.com/Amana-Carbid...ss+router+bit&qid=1554003108&s=gateway&sr=8-4 If you use the bandsaw use the finest blade you have with teeth that have the least hook angle.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

If you switch to schedule 80, it will be thicker and stronger. I'd prefer using a band saw. If you use a router with a spiral bit, Be sure to mark the centerline on both sides so you can make certain your cuts are on opposite sides, not offset. I'd rout extra long slots but not all the way to the end, then I'd go back and cut the end off. 

I would also consider doing this with a Japanese saw. You'd need a jig to hold it and prevent rotation.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Hot glue the pipe to a piece of scrap wood. Full length glue both sides.
Cut on the bandsaw with a fine toothed blade, slice the hot glue off with a knife or wallpaper scraper.


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Blades or bits with a hook angle can grab the plastic and it can explode when it happens. There are bits for cutting plastic and they have what the makers describe as "O" flutes.



An "O" flute bit will grab just as much as regular bit.
The main difference is the flutes have more clearance to clear the chips and minimize the chances of the plastic melting.


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

Build a box, that holds the pipe so that it can't move. The top of the box will have the slot cut in it, and be your template. Use a guide bushing, or top bearing bit, and make 2 or 3 light passes. This is by far the safest and easiest way to do it.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I would run it through a table saw with a dado blade or two saw blades with a spacer in between them. As you said mount it into a frame so that it won't turn. Another way would be to heat the pipe up with a heat gun and cut it with a knife but it might not come out straight. Pipe is cheap so you can try several methods. The router would work as well but it would seem to be the most difficult way to do it because of trying to set it up.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Are the slots stopped or do they reach the open end?


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

> I would run it through a table saw with a dado blade


:surprise:

My gut feeling tells me there's a good chance a dado blade could grab and the pipe would explode into little pieces. I would NOT attempt this.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Duane...the rudder will be stronger if you make the shaft a bit longer and make stopped slots. This will add some strength to the bottom of the rudder. Make the slots so that you can slide the rudder portion through the stopped slots and screw through the shaft and through the rudder.

If you do it this way you will need to use the router to make the slots ...OR... drill the hole at each end of the slots and use a fine tooth blade on a jig saw at an angle...OR...drill a hole at each end and use a coping saw to make the slices for the slots...

However you decide to make the slots, I would still make them stopped and push the rudder through them for mounting...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

This string is the perfect expression of the idea that there are always many ways to accomplish anything. Lots of good thinking going on here. Would love to see a pix of the pipe and later of the boat.

I particularly liked the idea of hot gluing the pipe to a carrier, and using a band saw. Pipe's cheap so you could try it in shedule 40 and 80. I also like the idea of making it a stopped slot, but you could accomplish that by gluing a connector to the split end after cutting, then cutting most of that connector away so you have just a thin ring on one end.

To make sure the sides of the slot stay parallel, I'd cut the first side, then insert some card stock to keep the slot open while you cut the other side. If you want the edges of the slot to be parallel, you won't want to rotate the pipe, so you'd need to hot glue to two pieces, set on each side of the pipe.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I've done the TS method without any excitement. Keep in mind that the blade only has to rise enough to barely enter the inner cavity. Mind you I haven't tried a dado blade...
As I recall i put on a 40 tooth 8" blade (on my 10" saw).
Now if it's a stopped cut, I'm calling off the bet.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

Make a through cut on the band saw then glue a sleeve on the end.


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

Interesting situation. I would definitely use Schedule 80. As you already know, you will need a jig or fixture to hold the pipe securely, particularly once you have cut the slot on one side and go to make the slot in the other. If you don't support/secure the open end, the pipe will flex and possibly grab if using a router

I think my approach would be to use a well set up bandsaw to cut the slot undersized and then clean it up with light cuts on the router table. Cleaning it up may not even be necessary if the slot turns out straight and clean enough. PVC is cheap. Try it different ways. After the first cut, when making the second cut, the upper part, which is unsupported, may flex downward into the blade. 

You should be able to eliminate the blade drift. I would definitely be using a very sharp blade, which may go a long way toward eliminating the drift. There are multiple sources of info on setting up your bandsaw, but the one I like the best is 




Once you have the slot cut using the bandsaw, I would find some way to insert a wooden plug in the open end before making the router cuts (I might find a way to do this for the initial bandsaw cuts also). It may mean putting a few screws through the pipe into the plug, to keep the pipe in place. Also, I think I would put a spacer in the upper slot as you clean up the bottom slot, probably more to help with stabilizing the pipe in the jig so it can be held securely. That would eliminate being able to see the bottom cut from the top, but I think that would be quite difficult while holding the jig/pipe and making the cut, so I regard that as moot. 

I am still racking my brain trying to figure out what sort of jig/fixture would hold the pipe securely as you make these cuts. Grabbing it from the outside will work until one or more cuts are made, after which the pipe may collapse and possibly become too loose in your jig. This is where the plug will help. On the notion of putting screws through the pipe into the plug, any holes in the pipe may compromise its integrity during use. I think I would make the pipe/slot longer such that the plug could go into the extra length at the open end and then cut that section of pipe off for your final length after all the slotting it complete. 

Thinking that latter point through a bit, I think I would make a plug for the end of the pipe as part of your rudder mounting, also. Without something rigid in the end of the pipe, I think it will flex and/or collapse if you put bolts or whatever to secure the rudder in the pipe. I also think it is at risk of bending/breaking right at the top of the slot if not supported in some way. Water is amazingly powerful in subtle ways. PVC is not very structural. It won't take much lateral pressure on the rudder 

Good luck and keep us posted,

Rick


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

There is already a video on youtube where a guy has my same little boat, a Sundolphin Sportsman, and he made a huge rudder from PVC pipe and plexiglas. He didn't cut it like I want to, he simply used a bunch of fittings and glued up a frame on a long arm that's not even straight, it has a 90 degree turn in it. He used zip ties to hold the plexi sheet in the frame, and said it all worked well. I'm making a rudder that's half the size of his. His and mine both are just to control boat rotational drift, not intended to take any real force. These boats are fair weather vessels only, and used only in the same conditions a kayak is used. Calm waters only. That said, I do worry about impact from bumping a log.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

harrysin said:


> Are the slots stopped or do they reach the open end?


The plan was open ended on one end, but others here don't recommend that. I think it would be easier to cut though, and I'd run a bolt through the pipe and rudder blade near the end anyway, which would be stronger than leaving a small amount of PVC, or so I believe.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> The plan was open ended on one end, but others here don't recommend that. I think it would be easier to cut though, and I'd run a bolt through the pipe and rudder blade near the end anyway, which would be stronger than leaving a small amount of PVC, or so I believe.



Duane...the reason I recommended making stopped slots is so that you have some strength in the PVC below the rudder when you run the bolts through and tighten them. I would even go so far as capping the end also for the same reason (with a regular PVC cap).


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I like the box idea with the pipe hot glued in place. I might put a wooden plug in side the length of the cut ,or maybe a little longer and cement the end so it doesn't rotate. Then a band saw, router, or table saw could be used. After the slot is cut remove the plug part way and cement a coupling on the end of the pipe to strengthen the end, and the full length plug could stay in too to make it so the pipe never bends .
Just saying,
Herb


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This is how I would/did do it using a 1.5" reticulation pipe and a 1/2" bit. I centred it from the fence and raised the bit about 1/2", marked the bit centre on the fence and plunged the pipe then raised the bit 'till it penetrated the top. It isn't perfect but it was the first and only attempt, I'm sure that a second attempt holding the pipe firmer would result in a perfect through slot.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Wow! I appreciate that example. Never expected anyone to try it to see if it would work. Thanks so much! 

I woke this morning actually thinking about this. I believe I'm going to make a wooden core for the pipe and look at leaving it permanently inside for strength. I really don't want the pipe to extend passed the bottom of the board purely for aesthetic reasons so I'm going to wrestle with it in my head some more before starting work.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> The plan was open ended on one end, but others here don't recommend that. I think it would be easier to cut though, and I'd run a bolt through the pipe and rudder blade near the end anyway, which would be stronger than leaving a small amount of PVC, or so I believe.


If it is open-ended you could strengthen it with a PVC cap glued on. That would give support all away around.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

If an open ended slot is OK then a tight fitting wood plug could be tapped in and the pipe slid over the bit in 1/4" cuts until it's through. An end stop clamped to the fence would ensure that each cut ends in the same spot.

Edit:
This could be done on the band-saw but it is unlikely to be as accurate as a 1/2" router bit.

It just occurred to me that you may not have a means of slowly raising the router bit, or, heavens above you might have a fixed base router in the table! Some years ago a late member by the name NIKI posted a simple router lift consisting basically of a few sticks joined with rubber bands and fitted to a B&D portable table, and it worked for him. I took the liberty of using the idea and making a metal more elegant version which works perfectly. Here are a couple of shots .


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Yes, I have a DeWalt DW618 in a fixed base. When unbuckled it has too much side to side movement to try and raise it while cutting.

I think a slight design change is in order. I’m thinking I will make a wood core. Hopefully that’s doable with accuracy to the pipe ID using a 3/4 roundover bit with 1-1/2” square stock and 4 passes, but somehow I will get that done and inserted. 

Then instead of cutting all the way through both sides of the pipe I believe I’ll stop short of that, maybe just short of the other side but most or all the way through the wood and leave the pipe in a C shape instead of ( ) as I had originally planned.

I will cap the bottom and cut most of the way down one side of the cap, matching the cut in the pipe, leaving the cap span across the end intact and basically leaving the cap sides in a C shape as well. I’ll get a coupling and grind out the center rib so it slides over the pipe to the middle, at the top end of the cut and I’ll notch it so it also matches the cut but not cut completely through to a full C shape, just a notch on one end. This will reinforce the pipe at the top along with the cap at the bottom, and with the wood core left in place and the pipe made into a C shape where its cut as opposed to two ( ) halves, I believe this will be strong enough. I described all this like I’d add the cap and coupling after I’d already made the cut but in practice I’ll glue them on and then make the cut. I’ll predrill the ends of the groove first and use those holes as a way to enter with the bit and make shallow passes to remove the material until it’s as deep as I need. Then insert my board for the rudder, run bolts through in several places to hold it in, and use some caulking to seal the slot to prevent water from entering.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

That sounds OK Duane but do please show progress photographs.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

harrysin said:


> That sounds OK Duane but do please show progress photographs.


I plan to. I received some parts today that I had ordered for it. They're better than I'd hoped. This Saturday I plan to start work on it.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Having mentioned my foot operated router lift I should have mentioned that it's great for dowling.


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

pvc, or any other plastic for rudder control is just too flimsy for anything that will be carrying people, a model, ok..


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Is the pipe too flimsy for this? Flip and repeat.


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

I was an engineer and often worked with plastics. What I would do is make a simple jig where the pipe is below where your router will run and glue the pipe to the base in a slot and a fence in the appropriate place. Use the router in your hands, not in the table as if you have both hands on it you wont loose a finger or two should things go pear shaped. Start with an undersize slot and a sharp bit then the finishing size also with a sharp bit. One pass with each size bit will do it. Cut the pipe to length after you finish. If you make a very light cut it is easy to find the centre. Then plunge through both walls of the pipe. This gives you the centre point of both holes. Then back to the first slot with say 8mm then a second cut with 12mm or in your case 1/2". Cut the glue roll the pipe over and check the hole lines up with the plunge bit you started with and glue and then cut this slot


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The beauty of the FOOT operated router lift is that BOTH hands are FREE.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Duane, am I too late to contribute? Check out my pics. When I made a cutting board, I made a jig so I could run my router along the edge to create a finger relief. I was thinking you could do the same thing. However, you would need a plunge router to do the job safely.

Hope this helps or gives you some ideas of creating your slots. I think I would mark the ends of the pipe with a magic marker so it could be rotated 180 degrees after cutting the first slot.

Good luck, man.
Mike


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Below is a direct coppy and paste of a post I made on a fishing site about this project. It turned out really well. Time will tell if it works as good as it looks. The pipe does not feel weak at all! It's not stuffed solid from end to end, but it is over about 22" of its 30" length. The top might get cut down later and then the pipe would nearly be solid, but as of now the boat stern has more flex in it than this pipe does. I'm well pleased.

I got my rudder built and installed today. Some might not find this to be so affordable, or even desirable at the cost, plus the level of work that went into it. As it sits I have $87 in it, not counting the use of the leftover PVC pipe and boards from the rod rack project. If I had to start from scratch and put this together without having materials onhand already it would have exceeded $100 easily, probably in the range of $120. At that price you could just go ahead and get a second trolling motor and add the bullnose rudder to it. That would only be around $140. For me it just made better sense to do this, since it saved a few bucks plus I didn't want to lose space that a motor handle would take up pointing into the boat. I had to buy 4 of the clamps I used, but I only needed 2. A set of 4 at $25 on Amazon was the minimum though. Otherwise the cost might have been a little less.

Materials used were:
PVC 1-1/2" conduit (pipe) cut to 30" long.
Two pipe caps and one coupler with the center stop grinded out of the coupler.
PVC 1x6 board, cut and stacked for the mount on the stern.
PVC 1x3 board, cut and stacked, then shaped to fit inside the pipe.
A 12x18 HDPE cutting board for the rudder fin.
Two aluminum stage light clamps, 2" clamp diameter (48-51mm). They fit 1-1/2" PVC pipe perfectly.
Stainless steel hardware for everything, lag screws to fasten the mount to the stern, bolts to connect the clamps and the rudder fin.

First thing I did was cut the HDPE cutting board to a 12x12 size, and then cut a 45 degree angle from one corner just to give the rudder a shape. I routed all edges to give it a rounded finish, then laid it aside. HDPE can be cut but it takes care to do it. I had to do it in three shallow passes on the miter saw. Then trim off the melted waste that stuck to the edges. While it is moderately fussy to cut with a saw, it routes really easily. 

I used the leftover PVC conduit I had from the rod racks for the shaft. I cut two strips of the PVC boards and stacked them together and glued them using PVC conduit solvent adhesive. Then I shaped the resulting piece to slide inside the pipe so it formed a solid piece. I'd like to say this was easy, and it would have been with a 3/4 roundover bit in a router table. What a time to discover I didn't own a bit that size! So I simply shaved the corners down on the table saw, first making a square post into an octagonal piece, and then further shaving each newly formed corner until I had a somewhat rounded shaft. Then I had to spend some time, a whole lot of time actually, sanding down the piece to a rounded shape that would fit inside the pipe. It went in tightly when I was finally finished with it. No glue used, I was afraid it would begin to set up before I got it all the way tapped in. It was so snug that none was needed.

I measured and marked lines a quarter of the way around, and end to end, on the shaft. I laid out where I wanted the rudder fin to be, and then glued a cap on the end where the fin fits. Then slid the coupler on from the other end down to the middle. I previously grinded away the coupler center stop and sanded the insides to allow it to slip over the pipe like this. I did this to reinforce the pipe at the end of the fin mortise. The cap takes care of the bottom end but to get a coupler in the middle to be at the top of the fin meant splitting it or cutting the pipe in half. I didn't want to do either, so I grinded the stop out and slid it on instead. I marked the coupler location in the middle, slid it back and applied solvent glue, then slid it into place and wiped off the excess glue quickly. The coupler and end cap were placed so they overlapped the fin location. Once this was all done I marked the rudder fin bolt locations on the sides, and predrilled them using the drill press with the pipe supported in a V grooved board and clamped in place using leftover conduit clamps. Then I rotated the shaft 90 degrees and began using a 1/2" forstner bit on the drill press to hog out a mortise for the rudder fin to fit in. Once this was done I cleaned up the mortise with a chisel, carefully so as not to crack the PVC. Cutting such a long slot in it weakens the pipe, which is why I put a core in it, and used the coupler and end cap to help support it. The bolts going through the rudder fin will also help hold it together. 

Then I tapped the rudder fin in place using a rubber mallet. It went in tightly. Afterwards I drilled through it where its predrilled bolt holes were already done in the shaft. Then added the bolts to hold it in.

The stern mount is simply a stack of 1x6 PVC boards drilled to accept the bolts for the clamps, and the lag screws holding it to the stern. The clamps are one of the best things about this project. They're all aluminum except for their hardware, and I'm not sure it's stainless steel, but it is all metric so not easy to find wingnuts to replace with SS, and the clamp locking bolt is unique to the clamp so I'm stuck with it anyway, SS or not, but I did get my own SS bolts to hold them onto the PVC base. The clamps are very easy to use, very robust and rated at 220 pound duty each, and they grip this pipe tightly. I chiseled a small V shaped notch on the top clamp and scored the shaft to make a corresponding visible line for a way to align the rudder while in the boat without having to look over the side to see the fin underwater. This allows me to raise and twist it while in the boat to stow it flat against the stern so I can back the boat in close to shore in shallow water and save my motor prop while retreiving stuck baits or getting out to go find a tree to pee behind. Then I can reset the rudder and continue fishing.

I am looking forward to getting this boat on the water and testing all the new improvements. I'm especially pleased that no wood was used in any of this, everything is totally waterproof, corrosion proof, and UV resistant.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Here are a few pics of the whole boat, dirt and all! LOL!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Nice boat and nice photographs but what happened to the shots of the rudder?


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## RickKr (Dec 30, 2018)

WOW! Eight rod holders for up to two people :surprise:

Attached is an image for a table saw sled for holding bamboo for cutting a full-length, straight slot, as the first step in bandsawing strips for further processing into bamboo fly rods. The bamboo is held down by elastic bands. I think this may be similar to some of the suggestions you've received. This one is kinda fancy, but I'm sure you could build something more utilitarian and specific to your needs. 

I have one of these, but have not used it yet. I only recently bought a table saw, so I could not have used the sled previously. My activities in making bamboo rods are "in remission" until my daughter/granddaughter move out, freeing up space in my shop/garage. 

Rick


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

harrysin said:


> Nice boat and nice photographs but what happened to the shots of the rudder?


I posted them and the build process above the post of the boat itself in a separate post.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Duane...it would be very helpful for steering if you had some of the rudder (about 10% to 15%) sticking through the shaft. This will allow the forward motion to help steer when you turn the rudder. If you didn't glue it to the shaft, just drill new holes further back...


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

RickKr said:


> WOW! Eight rod holders for up to two people <a href="http://www.routerforums.com/images/RouterForums_2015/smilies/tango_face_surprise.png" border="0" alt="" title="EEK! Surprise!" ></a>
> 
> Attached is an image for a table saw sled for holding bamboo for cutting a full-length, straight slot, as the first step in bandsawing strips for further processing into bamboo fly rods. The bamboo is held down by elastic bands. I think this may be similar to some of the suggestions you've received. This one is kinda fancy, but I'm sure you could build something more utilitarian and specific to your needs.
> 
> ...


The idea is each person brings 3 rods. One in your hand and two stowed behind you. This uses one 4 rod rack and leaves the other empty, and that is the side you fish from. When you switch sides, move the rods to the other rack.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Duane...it would be very helpful for steering if you had some of the rudder (about 10% to 15%) sticking through the shaft. This will allow the forward motion to help steer when you turn the rudder. If you didn't glue it to the shaft, just drill new holes further back...


I only built it to control rotation when adrift. It's hard to fish a shore when the boat twists around. I use the motor for steering.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Gotcha...but now you have me wondering - if you are drifting, basically standing still in water, how does a rudder work for you when there might not be enough movement for steerageway...? Are you concerned more what wind will do to the boat when fishing a shoreline...? Not criticizing your work or idea, just personal wondering...


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I like the boat. At one time, I loathed over a similar set up I saw at a store near our local reservoir. A guy had it all rigged up for bass fishing. I have some of the same rods and reels (or close to it). That would make a good stable platform for flats fishing in and around Galveston west end/marshes. Probably use the same bait! 

Not trying to hijack, but here is my kayak from years ago (late 90's). The Stringermobile!


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Gotcha...but now you have me wondering - if you are drifting, basically standing still in water, how does a rudder work for you when there might not be enough movement for steerageway...? Are you concerned more what wind will do to the boat when fishing a shoreline...? Not criticizing your work or idea, just personal wondering...


These small boats are notorious for rotation. They say adding a rudder will help this, so I did it. My experience has been when fishing a shoreline and just letting the boat float or drift, the rear end of the boat tries to spin around and leaves the guy in back no way to cast towards shore. I have to constantly correct it with the motor. I figured this rudder will act the same as having a paddle in the water and resist the rotational turn the boat tries to do. All I'm doing with it is creating a drag when it tries to move or spin sideways, but not hamper forward movement, or reverse, which is why I built it to be retractable when in reverse. It won't get in the way when backing in close to shore, and it won't affect the steering either, if it is retracted. The motor does all the moving and steering. All the rudder has to do is keep the boat tracking in a straight line.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> These small boats are notorious for rotation. They say adding a rudder will help this, so I did it. My experience has been when fishing a shoreline and just letting the boat float or drift, the rear end of the boat tries to spin around and leaves the guy in back no way to cast towards shore. I have to constantly correct it with the motor. I figured this rudder will act the same as having a paddle in the water and resist the rotational turn the boat tries to do. All I'm doing with it is creating a drag when it tries to move or spin sideways, but not hamper forward movement, or reverse, which is why I built it to be retractable when in reverse. It won't get in the way when backing in close to shore, and it won't affect the steering either, if it is retracted. The motor does all the moving and steering. All the rudder has to do is keep the boat tracking in a straight line.



gotcha...thanks...


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Pics of that rudder in action. It works like a champ!


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Nice...many happy hours fishing...


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