# Old wood planes old #7 & #8 Bailey



## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

I was recently at a sale where this guy had several old LARGE wood planes and several Bailey #7 and I think 1 #8 plane. Not really sure what I was looking at or what they were really worth. I don't use hand tools like this, but I wouldn't be opposed to it, just not comfortable with it at all. So, I guess I am asking what recommendations ya'll might have and what these tools are worth.
I can see myself digging a trench in the top of a piece of wood I am trying to plane, so I never went down that road.


----------



## curt99 (Oct 17, 2010)

Hi Jack,

Fine Woodworking just came out with their annual issue of Tools and Shops, in it you'll find a great artical about tuning up your old bech planes. You could learn a lot from reading it. Also if you look around on Ebay you'll be surprised by the price range for some of the planes.

I recently bought a new low angle block plane for $76.00 and if I had checked on Ebay first I could have got it for under $30.00 plus $8.00 S&H and I've seen others selling for more than they cost new.

Have Fun,
Curt99


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Jack...

you were looking at a couple of 'jointers'.. the big boys of hand planes. These are used for smoothing out large surfaces such as table tops and edge jointing. The difference between the two is minimal with the #8 being a couple inches longer than the #7. Preference between the two comes down to a personnel choice. Both are rather hefty and require a bit of effort to use. Both will provide on heck of a work out!!!

As far as worth goes. Thats a loaded question. It all depends on just how good a condition the plane is in. Some are nothing more than a parts donar. Others in NOS condition can be worth well over 300.00 to a collector. Purchasing one off of the bay can be a crap shoot unless you buy off of a reputable seller who gives an accurate description of the plane for sale. A good "user" could go for anywhere from 50 to 150 bucks plus/minus. sometimes ya overpay, sometimes ya get a deal....Another "big" consideration is which "TYPE" of plane it is. The bailey's are indentified by type, from 1 to 19. 1 being the earliest version, 19 generally considered the last of the quality planes made under the stanley bailey monikor. 
things to look for:
Sole of plane is FLAT!!! especially around the mouth. You can get away with a couple .000's at the heel and toe but around the mouth, the thing needs to be flat and true. 
Mouth needs to be clean and square.
Tote and knob (handles) should be in good condition. Major cracks and splits will require repair or replacement. Both are readily available and relatively affordable. 
Body of play should be in relatively good condition. minor pitting and/or rust really doesn't effect performance unless its extensive. 
Adjustment knob needs to be freed up and work in both directions.
Chip breaker should be in relatively good shape, most notably where the chip breaker rests against the iron. this portion needs to be in really good shape in order to apply even pressure against the iron. Otherwise, it can usually be cleaned up easy enough. 
Iron should be in good shape, most notably around the business end. A great plane with a lousy iron won't work worth a crap. 
The frog should be is good shape. The plane iron needs to rest on it nice and flush, you need to be able to adjust as needed. 
Lateral adjuster needs to be functional if equipped. 

bottom line, if you can find one to just tinker with, its worth it to have and a blast to get to learn how to use. A well tuned #7 or 8 has a limited scope of use in a small shop. Considering the amount of use it will most likely get having one is more a novelty than a necessity. 

HTH
bill


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jack

Buying planes is like buying a 2nd car for your own,,it's nice to have one but you will spend most of your time just looking at it/them, put your money into power tools that do the job easy and quick..but if you like to make a mess in your shop the hand planes are for you...


==========



Jack Wilson said:


> I was recently at a sale where this guy had several old LARGE wood planes and several Bailey #7 and I think 1 #8 plane. Not really sure what I was looking at or what they were really worth. I don't use hand tools like this, but I wouldn't be opposed to it, just not comfortable with it at all. So, I guess I am asking what recommendations ya'll might have and what these tools are worth.
> I can see myself digging a trench in the top of a piece of wood I am trying to plane, so I never went down that road.


----------



## sourdough (Jan 31, 2010)

*make a mess in your shop*



bobj3 said:


> Hi Jack
> 
> Buying planes is like buying a 2nd car for your own,,it's nice to have one but you will spend most of your time just looking at it/them, put your money into power tools that do the job easy and quick..but if you like to make a mess in your shop the hand planes are for you...
> 
> ...


Hahahahahah. You got it Bob. I've had fun the past several weeks learning about,fettling and using some planes. I will have a use for a couple of them. And I have made some wonderful and aromatic messes. But I gotta tell ya, after doing a couple small rabbets with a Stanley #191 I concluded I can walk over to the router table, mount a bit, and do the same thing in a few seconds of actual work!!
But I WILL agree....there is a magic in working wood with hand tools. I LIKE a couple of the planes and wood knot (??!!) be without them and my little pull saws.
Wood knot......neat huh? haaahahaha


----------



## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

*Let Me Clarify*

Some the planes were MADE of wood, I see that I wasn't clear in my descriptive narrative. I found the wooden planes interesting, intreauging even, and they were as large as the #8. I wonder what anyone may know about them.

Thanks guys & gals


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Jack...

The wooden version (assuming they were not japanese style planes) are known as "Transitionals". Mfg'd primarily during war era to save on metal. Functionally they are about the same as a standard all metal plane. In fact, there are those who would much rather use a transitional any day of the week. They are cool!! Espeically when you find one with good wood. Nice thing is that the wood bodies can easily be squared and/or replaced if needed. you can usually find pretty good deals on these. Some of the larger transitionals can hit 30"s in length and longer.


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Jack:

There's nothing more frustrating than a dull plane. Learn how to sharpen it and it will be one of the first tools you reach for. Routers are great but it takes a plane to take the "routerness" out of a joint, but only if it is realllllllllly sharp. I'm setting up the sandpaper-based scary sharp system. That also holds for cabinet scrapers.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

I can't think of a tool in the shop that will dull up quicker than a hand plane, you can dull the cutter on a hand plane by sitting it down wrong on the work bench plus it just takes one good knot ,that's it's ,,,dull ,,, that's why the router bit will put most hand planes to shame,,carb.tip router bits will stay sharp for a very long time unlike the blades on hand planes..

========


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Jack Wilson said:


> Some the planes were MADE of wood, I see that I wasn't clear in my descriptive narrative. I found the wooden planes interesting, intreauging even, and they were as large as the #8. I wonder what anyone may know about them.
> 
> Thanks guys & gals


I believe that wooden planes are also traditional in Scandinavian woodworking. Although usually made by the woodworker, there are a couple of commercially-made brands still available, as well. James Krenov, for example, is well known for advocating self-made wooden planes. 

In the U.S., Clark & Williams is keeping the wooden plane alive.

Clark & Williams - Our Planes

Adjusting the depth of cut is done with a small hammer. A light whack on the front advances the iron a touch, a light whack on the back end retracts it a hair.


----------



## sourdough (Jan 31, 2010)

*router bit vs. hand plane*



bobj3 said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> I can't think of a tool in the shop that will dull up quicker than a hand plane, you can dull the cutter on a hand plane by sitting it down wrong on the work bench plus it just takes one good knot ,that's it's ,,,dull ,,, that's why the router bit will put most hand planes to shame,,carb.tip router bits will stay sharp for a very long time unlike the blades on hand planes..
> 
> ========


Bob: I do not disagree with a thing you have said. But I have actually found uses for a couple planes over the past few weeks, after ignoring them totally. You really CAN put a surface on a piece of wood that is smooth as glass. And you really CAN nip and tuck here and there on projects. I have three little block planes and they are very handy.
Otherwise, as I mentioned the other day, I
spent a bunch of time doing a short rabbet that I could have done in seconds with my router....either in the table or not.:happy:


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Warren

At one time I used the Stanley 45 and the 55 all the time, you could call it a router all in one hand plane (tool) but it was a PITA to keep sharp..I spend all my time keeping the tools sharp but it's true if they are sharp they will do a good job.

Stanley No. 55 w/ Box, 4 Boxes Cutters, Manual --- Nice - eBay (item 150438747616 end time Nov-25-10 17:48:42 PST)

3 Stanley #45 Planes,One 45 Wood Box With Lable No Lid - eBay (item 290499158289 end time Nov-14-10 15:06:04 PST)

========



sourdough said:


> Bob: I do not disagree with a thing you have said. But I have actually found uses for a couple planes over the past few weeks, after ignoring them totally. You really CAN put a surface on a piece of wood that is smooth as glass. And you really CAN nip and tuck here and there on projects. I have three little block planes and they are very handy.
> Otherwise, as I mentioned the other day, I
> spent a bunch of time doing a short rabbet that I could have done in seconds with my router....either in the table or not.:happy:


----------



## dhammer (Nov 15, 2010)

*hand planes*



allthunbs said:


> Hi Jack:
> 
> There's nothing more frustrating than a dull plane. Learn how to sharpen it and it will be one of the first tools you reach for. Routers are great but it takes a plane to take the "routerness" out of a joint, but only if it is realllllllllly sharp. I'm setting up the sandpaper-based scary sharp system. That also holds for cabinet scrapers.


Routers have their place for versatility and the wide range of things they can do. BUT a good handplane is a joy to use. You don't need ear plugs, dust mask and the surface they make is ready to finish with little or no sanding

How did you make out with your scary sharp system? I use it..relatively inexpensive and the results are good.


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Steve:



dhammer said:


> How did you make out with your scary sharp system? I use it..relatively inexpensive and the results are good.


I'm working on a new sewer system at the moment (-- a.k.a. busting concrete.) All I've been able to do is set the float glass in the drawer. Got most of everything together just have to get to it.


----------

