# Freud bit question... by Moz...



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@Moz...

got this as a PM and thought it was better served on the Forum...

Okay, I want to get a 1/2" Shank 3/4" Straight & Mortising Router Bit for my Box Joint Beehive Project.
*suggest you get a bit that has a slight spiral (down shear) to it and not one w/ a straight cutter....
and you don't want to have much more cut length/depth than you need...
Freud Tools | Mortising Bit*

Here is a Freud on e-bay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181950556102...:MEBIDX:IT
*this is a Diablo by Freud and their entry level...
see the PDF...*

but for $5 less, I can get this one, which is longer, and has a trim bearing on it.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400943513534...:MEBIDX:IT
*this one ships from Hong Kong...
I'd suspect a knock off in a heart beat putting size, endurance and quality into question especially for that price....
If it is a knock off you own it, good or bad...*

I know you like Freuds and recommend them often.
*yup...
I have found better bits out of the box but only by a thin margin..
where the Freuds shine is their Customer Service, longevity and they are good to my bottom line as where replacements are needed more frequently for other brands...
now this is in a commercial shop...
you do realize that these bits you linked to are intended for different tasks..*

But for a 'just starting out idjit' like me, would it make much difference one way or t'other, and should the trim bearing and addl. length be a consideration?
*what ever...*

Thank you for ALL your guidance, advice, and links. You have been SO helpful, just in getting me past my fear of the router table.
*no problem...*

~M


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"But for a 'just starting out idjit' like me, would it make much difference one way or t'other, and should the trim bearing and addl. length be a consideration?
what ever..."
-Moz

Moz; I've posted this 'bit' in the past:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> "But for a 'just starting out idjit' like me, would it make much difference one way or t'other, and should the trim bearing and addl. length be a consideration?
> what ever..."
> -Moz
> 
> Moz; I've posted this 'bit' in the past:


good one Dan...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Gigo*

...it be-hoofs-me to add my 2-sense worth!
:grin:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> ...it be-hoofs-me to add my 2-sense worth!
> :grin:


that's cherry..


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Moz here is a link to a Fine Woodworking router bit test that was done in '07. I don't think a lot has changed since then except for some newer manufacturers that weren't around when the test was done. The method used in the test was fairly sound from a scientific point of view. http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/ToolTestRouterBits.pdf

The longer a bit is the more it will chatter and vibrate in the cut so you will get a smoother result by using the shortest bit that will get the job done, plus shorter usually means a little cheaper. Avoid the chinese bits off ebay, there may not be the quality control there should be. Although there are bits made in China that are good and those are sold by reputable companies and the factories use quality materials, quality machinery, and have good QC. The very best are still Whiteside's made in North Carolina though.


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## Moz (Nov 13, 2015)

Does the number of flutes make a difference? I see single, double, and triple flutes.
I would assume 3 must be a very smooth shave like those Gilette razors.
But is one really crude if sharp?
~M


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

more is smother...
one is prone to chatter if the feed rate is too fast...
less cutters cost less...


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## Moz (Nov 13, 2015)

DaninVan said:


> Moz; I've posted this 'bit' in the past:


Dan, there is a saying I would hear Master Carpenters say on jobsites:"Good, Fast, Cheap. Pick any 2."
I guess that applies to router bits, too, huh?
~M


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I like that saying, Moz!


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Good, Fast, Cheap, choose any two. Applies to health care too (my field). 

Rockler and several other bit making companies have up spiral bits in High Speed Steel (HSS), that are fairly inexpensive and will do the job just fine. . Fluted bits are NOT for cutting box joints. They will really tear things up. I bought both a 1/2 and 3/4 HSS spirals on half inch shanks for about $25. Yes, they won't last nearly as long as a $ 80-$90 carbide bit, but they are cheap to replace, you aren't doing heavy duty commercial projects, you are probably using fairly soft wood, so HSS should work out fine. Remember, carbide is fragile. I think you may also be able to resharpen HSS bits yourself (not sure) so they'll work well for some time with a little touchup. Thinking about the hives I've seen, you're probably going to do half inch joints for maximum glue strength. 

I bought those bits for use in the Rockler XL box joint jig for routers, which was on sale for $99 a week or two back. It has a sacrificial fence both front and back and will really hold down the workpiece and stop tearout. That would get you running fast. You will need a precision brass setup bar set to make setup just right (you don't use these often, but when you need one, nothing else will do). That bar set can be found at Harbor Freight as well.


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## Moz (Nov 13, 2015)

True. The girls will get run of the mill pine for the most part. 
I was looking at spiral upcut bits, but can't justify $50 and up.

I went ahead and got the Freud Diablo bit. My box joints won't be long things, just 3/4" wide, 3/4" deep.
Now I'm off to go sew a filter sack for the ShopVac filter. Damn those things are expensive! Worse than Printer toner cartridges...It's a setup, I tells ya!
~M


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