# Raised Panel Wainscoting



## Martin 095 (May 27, 2012)

Hi everyone,

New to this forum and relatively new to woodworking (if the moderators feel this would be more appropriate in another board, please feel free to move it - thanks). I would like to install raised panel wainscoting in my dining room and have considered kits, but they seem to be expensive. So I am considering doing all the cutting and routing myself. I do have a few questions that I hope you can help me with.

a) Should I float the raised panels in the stiles/rails or should they be tacked down? I am never really sure when wood should be allowed to float.

b) I have read that a lot of people use MDF for this - is this something I should consider? If not, what wood would you recommend, considering both durability and price? My first choice was poplar.

c) I would welcome any other advice (or links, especially to video clips) that might be helpful.

TIA!
Best,
M


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Wainscoting Router Bit Sets Home Improvement Project

MLCS Wainscoting Video

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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Martin; Hi!
Do you have a drawing or picture of what you want the finished product to look like?
Folks lose sight of the fact that wainscotting precedes (historically) the availability of any kind of manufactured panel product. All the wood was natural, hence the dimensioning of authentic wainscotting reflects that fact. However the background wood was fixed originally, that soon became irrelevant as decades of varnish and /or shellac glued the various pieces to each other. My experience with disassembling wainscotting suggests that 20th century installers nailed the field pieces to the wall framing and then overlayed the 'trim'...no dadoing involved. 
All the lumber parts should be cut in the area it's going to be installed in after first storing it there for a number of days to acclimatize to the humidity in that part of the building. _Do not store it out in the garage or shop, then bring it in and install!_
Bobj3 pointed out in another post that MDF particularly, sucks up moisture like a sponge.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Martin, the previous respondents are exactly right! Dan's points cannot be overemphasized about acclimation of the wood. Poplar is a wonderful wood for this type of project - it is usually readily available, inexpensive and very dimensionally stable. Poplar is also very pleasant to work with. It's a species you may fall in love with! I keep poplar on-hand and use it for quite a few projects - it is one of my all-time favorite woods to work with! Go for it!


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hi Martin.
If this is a paint grade project then there is nothing wrong with using MDF for the center panels. MDF does soak up moisture like a sponge but this usually is not much of a problem in a home. You can apply a sealer like Zinnser's Seal Coat to seal it before you fasten to wall. It is a Shelac based product & should be compatible with the paint topcoat. Use the dewaxed Seal Coat just to be sure.I would use Poplar for the rails & stiles. If this a a stain grade project then I would use all wood of choice.

Zinsser 00854 Seal Coat Universal Sanding Sealer, 1 Qt


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

James; thanks for the product link! Definitely on my product-to-try list. I haven't seen it on the shelf at my regular paint supplier(?).


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

DaninVan said:


> James; thanks for the product link! Definitely on my product-to-try list. I haven't seen it on the shelf at my regular paint supplier(?).


I can usually find some at Home Depot.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

In order to use poplar you will need to glue up the panels since you stated relatively new to woodworking you might consider MDF but please have good dust control


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I tried the Zinnser's sealer and the dry time drove me nuts I did cut in 1/2 and it did help a little bit BUT still..I now use Charles Neil's stuff dry time is quick to the touch in about 20 mins. or less..


Charles Neil on Shellac Presented by Woodcraft - YouTube
Charles Neil on Finishing - YouTube
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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> I tried the Zinnser's sealer and the dry time drove me nuts I did cut in 1/2 and it did help a little bit BUT still..I now use Charles Neil's stuff dry time is quick to the touch in about 20 mins. or less..
> 
> ...


I don't find dry time to bad but that might be due to weather here in So Cal.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Martin 095 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> New to this forum and relatively new to woodworking (if the moderators feel this would be more appropriate in another board, please feel free to move it - thanks). I would like to install raised panel wainscoting in my dining room and have considered kits, but they seem to be expensive. So I am considering doing all the cutting and routing myself. I do have a few questions that I hope you can help me with.
> 
> ...


If the rails and stiles are firmly attached to the walls then there is no good reason to try to nail them and there usually isn't anything to nail them to except where you cross a stud. Keep in mind that if you use lumber for the panels that the lumber plus the rails and stiles will equal up to 1 1/2" thick depending on whether you rabbet the rails and stiles and how much. 
I've made wainscotting twice. Once with homemade birch mouldings and 1/4" birch ply and the other with all mdf (3/4 and 1/4). As Dan pointed out, the traditional way is with boards but I am not a fan of that style. Unless the rest of your architechture and decor matches that look then it looks outdated to me. Just my opinion. If your going to paint, then there is no reason to use lumber. If you want dark stain, then poplar is a pretty good choice. Otherwise it's going to be expensive.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Martin I have used MDF almost exclusively on wainscoting and would recommend it. It doesn't warp, doesn't have to be glued up and I have never experienced and moisture problems. I have used it in bathrooms as well as large walls and other cupboard doors. The only issue is the edges need attention but once smoothed out look perfect. I have used joint compound with good success. If doing a wall I would suggest building it in place. First place your base board then the left (or right) style. Install your raised panel and then another style, and so on and so on until the wall is done. If it is going to be more than one panel high then ad your rail once the lower section is done. Doing it this way it is much lighter to work with and the end styles are easier to cope to fit the wall. Let the panels float and only glue where the rail and styles go together. For the rail and styles I use pine. By cutting carefully I am usually able to get clear wood out of #2 pine. MDF is very dusty so if possible do most of the work outside.


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## Martin 095 (May 27, 2012)

Hi everyone,

Thanks for the advice. The kind of wainscoting I am considering is available as a kit from New England Classic: Classic Traditional Raised Panel Wainscoting - apparently I cannot post a URL till I have at least 10 posts, so I apologize for not providing a link.

My plan was to build them in place as Art has suggested and I also plan to use backer strips so I am not nailing anything into just drywall. I also forgot to mention that I wasn't certain whether any part of the wainscoting should be glued - some seem to advise nailing while others prefer glue. Aside from not having to deal with holes, is there any other benefit to gluing? Someone mentioned that if I use poplar, I should glue the pieces together ... why is that?

Thanks again for all your help.

Best,
M


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## Bradleytavares (Feb 25, 2012)

Martin, good topic. I've installed lot's of paint grade wainscot and choose to use MDF for it's stability and paintability. Here in Colorado the humidity is very low so it doesn't seem to be affected. Since the majority of my installations are in homes that are occupied the milling is done on site. The assembly as well as back side painting is usually done in the room where it's to be installed due to the size of the run. For paint grade I use a rail and style set with raised panel cutter to mill all the parts prior to clamp up. When it's been a stain grade I lay out all panels with horiz. and vert. members shown on the wall and attach as I proceed. Using square cuts on these raises the degree of difficulity a bit but after they are installed I mill strips with a rabbit on the outside and a detail on the inside which are applied inside the squares. Often this is used for sunken panel application. For stain quality sunken panel it's best to use plywood for stability. Stain the panels first to avoid the white line that occurrs around the edges from movement from eather R&S or wall application. 
Rockler offers a CD for layout and cut sheets to aid in planning. By entering R&S widths, wall length and wainscot heigth the result will give the pannel sizes and R&S lengths as well as number of panels. This is a great help for planning.
Eather R&S with floating panel, sunken or raised, or the wall applied type remember to back coat, be careful with your adhesives and you'll produce an admirable product that you and your client will be proud of.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Martin 095 said:


> Hi everyone,
> Aside from not having to deal with holes, is there any other benefit to gluing? Someone mentioned that if I use poplar, I should glue the pieces together ... why is that?
> 
> Thanks again for all your help.
> ...


I think it was in reference to the center panels. Because of the size of the panels you will probably have to glue up several pieces to get the width for each panel. This would apply to any wood used for the panels. With MDF you can usually cut a single panel out of a sheet.


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## Martin 095 (May 27, 2012)

Thanks James for answering my question and Bradley for the advice and tips. I have looked over the Rockler website and the CD looks interesting ... but I am on a Mac. Will have to see if I can find Windows PC somewhere. And for the record, my client is the wife!

One last question (at least for now) - I don't remember noticing this the last time I was in a room with this type of wainscoting but should I plan to make the panels all the same size on each wall (ie, so that the panels on the west wall are different in width than those on any of the other three walls)? Or should I make them all the same size and use smaller panels at the ends to maintain even spacing. And one wall has baseboard heating – how should I handle this? OK that was two questions .


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## Bradleytavares (Feb 25, 2012)

Martin, all panels should match the wall they are applied to. This means that each wall will have different width panels. Semetery in each wall is the answer, independent of the other walls. If you were to stack panels then it's OK to have different heigth panels as on a six panel door. If a door is where the wainscot terminates then have the door casing rest on the ledge you'll create to be the top of the wainscot. Remember, if you turn an inside corner, to compensate for the thickness of the covered style by making it wider. Same applies for turning an outside corner. I thought the Rockler CD was applicable for Mac users also?? Anyway you look at it, patience and continuing revisions of your laypout is necessary for an appropreate appearing product. It's best to layout your final design on the walls to see it in full size. Sounds like you'll be living with the product as well as the client for a long time! Be careful and take your time, don't be in a hurry, you do have the time. PM me if you'd like more detailed info or pics of my work.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Martin you said that you will be getting a kit if so then don't they supply all the parts? If so then besides the cost I would think that your options will be limited. Do a Google search and choose images to get a look at various designs. For a dining room you might want to consider flat panels instead of raised panels they would be a more traditional design. Building it with flat panels would be the same or you could use the bit sold by MLCS that looks like a traditional paneled wall but the rails and style are applied over the wall or MDF.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I wasn't going to give my opinion (personal taste), but since Art just brought it up, I absolutely agree. Raised panels may be a tad over the top for a whole room (as opposed to flat panels). But then I'm pretty conservative...


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## Martin 095 (May 27, 2012)

Thanks for the help guys. Art, I mentioned that I was considering a kit but thought I could do this for a lot less money (and a lot more work). And as I haven't yet found a good lumber supplier near my home I still have some time to think this through.

Again, thanks for the help.

Best,
M


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

The whole thing can be done with MDF. 3/4 for the rails and styles and 1/4 for flat panels or 3/4 for raised.


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