# A simple trinket box tutorial



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This series of photographs shows how I went about making a simple trinket box. At the end I'll add a pdf of the project. The box measures 9" x 4.5" x 8.25" tall.





Continued next post


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Continued from previous post


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## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

Great display of the project Harry, thanks. Tasmanian Maple sounds so exotic, probably more so here in the states.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Thanks Harry. A timely reminder to get out to the shed.......


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Thanks Harry--seems a simple idea to use a 45 degree bit to cut miter corners, but i'd have never figured that out on my own. Looks like a sink cut-out you used for the design template, i'm guessing that you have a variety of offset inserts already cut for what ever comes to mind?

earl


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Nice work and tutorial Harry!

Curious to your mark on the bottom of the box. Was it hand written, routed, burned, etc.?


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

Thank you Harry, I love these from aromatic cedar and would love to try out my new box joint jig to make one of these.

Excellent work sir.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

greenacres2 said:


> Thanks Harry--seems a simple idea to use a 45 degree bit to cut miter corners, but i'd have never figured that out on my own. Looks like a sink cut-out you used for the design template, i'm guessing that you have a variety of offset inserts already cut for what ever comes to mind?
> 
> earl


I haven't Earl because this one is designed specifically for a 9" x 4.5" lid and further variations can be made by changing the size of the template guide and/or bit. For the one shown I used a 25mm guide and because I used a 45° "V" bit, adjusting the height alters the width of the cut. Such a jig can be made on a bigger scale for things like draw fronts, in which case further variations are possible.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Marco said:


> Nice work and tutorial Harry!
> 
> Curious to your mark on the bottom of the box. Was it hand written, routed, burned, etc.?


I wrote it on paper Jim then placed it with carbon paper on the box after which I went over it with a ball pen. It's the first time that I have used this method, I normally do it freehand with a marking pen. Pros. like Bobj3 and some other members use a custom branding iron.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

BRAVOGOLFTANGO said:


> Thank you Harry, I love these from aromatic cedar and would love to try out my new box joint jig to make one of these.
> 
> Excellent work sir.


I may well make the next one using box joints using the most simple of jigs, the spacer jig. Whilst the one that I'll use is a commercially available one made by Oakpark that I won some years ago on this forum, kindly donated by Bob Noles, it is so easy to make and use.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Great job, Harry! You are truly a master teacher.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

harrysin said:


> I wrote it on paper Jim then placed it with carbon paper on the box after which I went over it with a ball pen. It's the first time that I have used this method, I normally do it freehand with a marking pen. Pros. like Bobj3 and some other members use a custom branding iron.


Thanks Harry. Your method removes a lot of room for errors. The branding iron is a great way but haven't been able to talk myself into buying one. I have considered having a CNC man make me one but don't know how small it can be made so it can be routed. Maybe a CNC signature/label used like a stencil and painted on?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

curiousgeorge said:


> Great job, Harry! You are truly a master teacher.


I don't know about that George but praise from you means a lot to me. I've picked up quite a lot from you over the years but of late I suspect that your shop floor is devoid of sawdust, any particular reason?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Marco said:


> Thanks Harry. Your method removes a lot of room for errors. The branding iron is a great way but haven't been able to talk myself into buying one. I have considered having a CNC man make me one but don't know how small it can be made so it can be routed. Maybe a CNC signature/label used like a stencil and painted on?


Why not just have some foil labels printed, the date can then be "indented" on it with a ball pen. It could say something like "superbly crafted by Marco" with a space for the date.


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## john880 (Aug 18, 2010)

How's about those name labels they send out for donations, that I must have a zillion of them.
That phony picture of Harry you posted can not be a him. As I am told he flotes on air, has this long white beard, and sports a cape with a magical staff.


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## tchouken (Jul 21, 2016)

Nice work and tutorial
A quick question, if I may
What Makita router is that you are using (picture #8/#9)?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

tchouken said:


> Nice work and tutorial
> A quick question, if I may
> What Makita router is that you are using (picture #8/#9)?


The Makita router is a 3600BR which I no longer have, it's been replaced by my Makita 3612C which now sits permanently on the skis. The 3612C has been superseded by a Makita RP2301FC.
There appears to be several missing shots from that link so try this:


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

That's a great tutorial,I wish I could do as well,I fear I have a long way to go to get there.


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