# Ryobi depth adjustment stuck



## arigger (Feb 9, 2011)

Hello nice people in routerland!
I apologize in advance... This is a re-post.
I'm looking for a solution to a problem I'm having with a Ryobi 161 or 163 router.
I'll bet it's an older model 'cause it doesn't look quite like the photo on Ryobi's website.
Anyway, this is one with a twist bezel to adjust the height. It's stuck. Badly.
It's always been a pain... I took it apart once to try to solve the problem to no avail. Today, however, it's so stuck I can't do a thing to make it budge. I usually have to put the motor end into the vise, and use a strap. [broke the damn strap wrench I bought for the purpose.] This time, in desperation, I clamped the base and tried to turn it... that's a bad idea. Managed to re-align the aligning pin, but the bezel still won't budge. Any help?
Or is this machine destined for "repurposing"?:moil:


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

arigger said:


> Hello nice people in routerland!
> I apologize in advance... This is a re-post.
> I'm looking for a solution to a problem I'm having with a Ryobi 161 or 163 router.
> I'll bet it's an older model 'cause it doesn't look quite like the photo on Ryobi's website.
> ...


Hi Jason - Sorry to hear about the problem. Looking at the parts explode for the 161, my guess is the motor body is crudded up on the threads that mate with the ring. Only suggestion I can think of is to try to soften the stuff up. Probably gonna be mostly sawdust in there. Maybe a good wetting down with a penetrating fluid such as PB blaster and letting it soak in may loosen it. Spray it good two or three times letting it set 4-6 hours between soakings and try it after 24 hours or so. My other suggestion would be to take it into a shop but for what Ryobi's sell for that may not make economic sense.
Good Luck


----------



## arigger (Feb 9, 2011)

Good advice. I paid $45 for it used in good (looking) condition. Another won't break me, but I'm not used to being unable to fix things.
It's got some oil on it now...
When I opened it up last time there was no crud, and being the cheapo router in my shop it gets almost no use. I'm sure gunk ain't the problem. Seems that many others have had this issue but I can't find anyone with a solution.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

arigger said:


> Good advice. I paid $45 for it used in good (looking) condition. Another won't break me, but I'm not used to being unable to fix things.
> It's got some oil on it now...
> When I opened it up last time there was no crud, and being the cheapo router in my shop it gets almost no use. I'm sure gunk ain't the problem. Seems that many others have had this issue but I can't find anyone with a solution.


I've got an old Craftsman I inherited that has a similar depth adjustment. Cleaning waxing, invoking curses, sacrificing chickens (just kiddding there) didn't seem to help. I finally just got a dovetail bit in it and adjusted for half blind joints in half inch stock and leave it alone. h34r:


----------



## arigger (Feb 9, 2011)

More good advice...
Thanks.


----------



## whofan (Jan 9, 2011)

I got a Ryobi router for a small table I have not used yet. Hope I don`t have this problem but if I do I too will set it up permently as a dovetail cutter or bite the bullet and get rid of it.


----------



## Xpress (Apr 30, 2012)

arigger said:


> Hello nice people in routerland!
> I apologize in advance... This is a re-post.
> I'm looking for a solution to a problem I'm having with a Ryobi 161 or 163 router.
> I'll bet it's an older model 'cause it doesn't look quite like the photo on Ryobi's website.
> ...


I have a 160 and I'm guessing you have a similar problem. I put some wd40 overnight then I used a vise grip type of oil filter wrench. Mine is wide enough, is a perfect grip and with enough handle power to get mine loose. When you brake it loose, do left and right turns to loosen anything that may be in the way until rotation is smooth


----------



## bcrobins (Jul 24, 2013)

*Another Ryobi 161 with stuck depth gauge*

Before giving up on what was a useful entry-level router, I would really like to solve this puzzle.

The exploded parts diagram shows #46 as a steel "needle roller." I removed the clamping lever and found that this needle is completely immovable. If is is a part that can be ordered, shouldn't it be removable? 

I have taken off every part I can see, including set screw #35. What is holding the aluminum base and the metal and plastic motor housing together at this point? Is it the "needle roller?"

I think the problem is sawdust, old grease, etc in the spiral plastic housing. I used some penetrating oil with no luck. 

This tool is not sturdy, and I'm sure if I use brute force, I will break it for good. 

The construction seems so simple. I'll greatly appreciate anyone who can explain how the needle should work and how to get the router apart to clean it!

Thanks.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bcrobins said:


> I think the problem is sawdust, old grease, etc in the spiral plastic housing. I used some penetrating oil with no luck.


I think you are right and it does seem that the "needle roller" should be free. Likely a matter of more penetrating oil and patience. I'd soak the thing with WD-40 or, even better, PB Blaster and let it set overnite. Maybe a little heat would help also, heat gun, not a torch. 
Good Luck


----------



## bcrobins (Jul 24, 2013)

*More drastic measures needed?*

Many thanks for the quick response, John. You rock!

Still no luck with penetrating oil and heat. The needle and ring are immovable in any direction, even when gently encouraged with tools. 

Reference the attached diagram, could you tell me about separating the motor housing, the ring and the base? What fasteners are holding the whole stack together? Does the motor cap have to come off?

I see that later Ryobis do not this type of depth adjustment. No surprise there!

Greatly appreciating your help with this interesting puzzle.

B. Robinson


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi - Well, I haven't got that router so I can't tear one down so I'm doing a LOT of guessing here. 
I'm thinking the grooves/threads on the motor body (item 28) are engaged by the adjusting ring (item 40) and the locking pin (item 46). If there is sort of a ramp on the inside surface of the locking knob (item 41) then the locking knob is just pushing item 46 into the motor body to hold it in place. The set screw (item 35) I believe to be just an adjustment to take some slop out of the system and you have already removed it. That is all I can see that holds the thing together. I don't see removing the motor cap buying you anything. 
You may have already tried this but I'd try putting a pair of vice grips on the pin (item 46) and trying to get rotational movement. Work in both directions a little while to see if you can get any movement that way. You could also soak with penetrating oil and hang a little bit of weight on the vice grip so there is a constant pressure and give it a little time that way. Constant, steady pressure can be an awesome force. 
Other than that, I'm about out of ideas. :'(


----------



## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Forgive me for trying to remember this... It's been a while since I've had a router with a bevel ring type depth adjuster. As I remember, the bezel screwed off the bottom of the motor housing. Taking the motor cap off didn't give me anything, because the bearing plate was above the motor housing top and the top of that motor housing was still larger than where the bezel ring screws on. So the Bezel ring just can't come off the top of the housing...

The bezel ring also cannot be removed from the base without unscrewing the bezel off the bottom of the motor housing first. As I remember there was some screws inside the top of the bezel ring assembly that held it to the base... But you had to have the motor housing out and turn the bezel ring a certain way to even see those screws . So if it was together, there was no way to get to them.

I hope I remembered that correctly, but like I said, it's been a while. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. I really can't think of anything else other than what John suggested. Good luck on that.


----------



## bcrobins (Jul 24, 2013)

Thank you, John and Mike!

I'll try the rotational movement plus weight next. The design is remarkable because access is so well hidden. Other tools just use boring "tamper resistant" screws. This thing really means it.

One reason for my persistence is that it fits a neat little router table made of real metal, perfect for small projects.

Appreciate it,

B. Robinson


----------



## bcrobins (Jul 24, 2013)

Appreciate knowing not to mess with the motor cap!


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bcrobins said:


> Thank you, John and Mike!
> 
> I'll try the rotational movement plus weight next. The design is remarkable because access is so well hidden. Other tools just use boring "tamper resistant" screws. This thing really means it.
> 
> ...


Hi Bonnie - Let us know how it goes.


----------



## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

arigger said:


> Good advice. I paid $45 for it used in good (looking) condition. Another won't break me, but I'm not used to being unable to fix things.
> It's got some oil on it now...
> When I opened it up last time there was no crud, and being the cheapo router in my shop it gets almost no use. I'm sure gunk ain't the problem. Seems that many others have had this issue but I can't find anyone with a solution.


I have the same problem! I use the plunge router base for everything! I wish I had better hope, but mine has never worked Did You buy it with 3 base set-up) You might use a good dry film product like Dri-Slide, to see if it helps, I had to make a large hole in a piece of plywood that fit the ring to turn it! You might try E-Bay for the plunge unite, I believe their not that expensive. That plunge base with router turns it into a great router! Mine's 12 years old, and still is going strong! Good Luck! The Dutchman!


----------



## granpa51 (Jun 3, 2014)

*Ryobi Router*

My router is stuck and will not adjust any more either. I also broke a strap wrench that I bought to loosen it. I think I am just going to donate it to my local recycling center and let them turn it into a new "Smart Car". :sarcastic:


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Van, welcome to the forum.

I agree, sometimes an older router is just not worth fixing if you want a good tool.


----------



## ficoce (Jan 26, 2015)

Shoot, I was hoping to find someone had a permanent solution. I've had the three base Ryobi model for years now, (or maybe it's decades?). Before looking at the exploded diagram and deciding it must be sawdust, just realize that the router and attachment bases are made of a material that expand and contract like wood. The engineering professionals at Ryobi designed a multibase router where the optimum time to change bases is around August and you better put the one you want on by early October. I've found that 90 degrees ambient is about right.

My favorite is the plunge base. Without the screw style height adjustment, (annual adjustment), I can take the base off the router any time of the year. At 50 degrees and 80% humidity, I set up blocks that line up with the handles when I turn it upside down. Then take a 1x2 and a big hammer and beat the thing out, kind of like a bearing race, but races get easier as they go. 

There's a reason these thing went on sale for almost free right after they were released. They aren't bad using the plunge, but the screw bases, man.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Because the diag. shows the p/n 46 from the back of the machine it's difficult to tell what it fits into, but from the lever side it appears that #46 is actually a guide pin which restricts the rotation of the (locking?) lever. Does that sound right?
Are you saying that it's frozen in the body, bezel, or lever? I don't think it's intended to move like a roller bearing.


----------



## ficoce (Jan 26, 2015)

Diagrams are great, they help troubleshoot proper design. That isn't what we are have here. Roller bearing is to race, like glove is to hand. While a bearing turns freely the race can be a bear to remove - but it's still easier to remove than a lot of older Ryobi routers.

Yes, there's a pin that holds the router body in line with the lower part of the base. The issue is the tall thick height adjustment ring at the top of the base. This ring is 1 3/4" tall and about 1/2" thick. While I imagine this was designed to give stability to the router body, the massive amount of surface area creates so much friction when the ring contracts, during basically normal to lower temperatures, it locks the body in the base. 

A bearing race is pressed into a wheel and is held there by friction. To remove we use metal's natural tendency to expand with heat; if we can heat the wheel more than the race the wheel will expand allowing the race to pop out. 

This same principle can be used with the Ryobi router. Either wait until the weather heats up to expand the ring or heat it up yourself. With mine, I experimented on a 95 degree day years ago - I left it out in the sun and the bases actually worked as intended. 

If the rings were made of metal the fix to remove would be to bring out the torch and heat them up, but they are made of hard plastic with a rubberized outer laminate. Working very carefully with a heat gun might work to remove. 

This doesn't solve the problem however. Whether the issue is in an error in design material or an error in manufacturing tolerance is really moot at this point; an adjustable router that doesn't move can drive you to drink. I've thought about sanding the adjuster, but without knowing whether it's the threads expanding in the grooves or the outer shell it's a tough call on which to sand. Given that the plunge base doesn't have threads and is still tight, I'd guess it's the outer ring. I just installed the router back into the plunge base - with 2x4 and big hammer.) Was hoping someone else would experiment to tell me what didn't work.


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

...aluminum and steel don't like each other, especially if in humid or damp environment. the roller needle and the housing are likely "semi-welded" together (galvanic corrosion). I get this a lot with my boat parts. I use "anti-sieze" (I happen to like Permatex) where I can to prevent it from happening. It's a little messy and a little goes a long way.

Back to your problem and how I fix my stuck aluminum/steel parts. What has worked for me is slight tapping next to the steel part, all sides, to try and crack the corroded parts (every action has an equal and opposite reaction type of thing). I would take all the locking lever parts off and small pean hammer near the needle. Caution as this may be a totally bad idea depending on the condition of the aluminum and the needle. You also need to be careful not to make the aluminum housing warp as a result of the hammering. This is not an over-the-shoulder framing walls kind of swing...more like a vibration kind of tapping...

If you look at the roller and it has a sort of chalky, white/light gray, almost powdery look...yup, galvanic corrosion. The two parts are trying to make themselves a battery...

I wouldn't bang the roller in any further to loosen it and vice grips are likely to slip and not provide any circular movement.

Can you take the lever and it's parts off and send in a couple of close-up pics...?

Nick


----------



## ficoce (Jan 26, 2015)

The race is the surface that the roller bearing rides on. It is meant to be pressed into the wheel. Thanks for the offer though.


----------



## BobLewisPhoto (Mar 12, 2016)

*Ryobi Router Depth adjuster seized since it was new*

Me too,

I bought a kit with three bases and the router in a blue nylon bag several years ago. I think the router with the standard base is model R162k

Since day one I wasnt able to turn the adjuster ring and just moved the bit in the collet to make adjustments. Yesterday I decided to figure out what I had been doing wrong and it turned out that my mistake was buying this model :-(

My solution was to wrap a chain wrench around it and force it to turn.

I took some pictures but I dont see how to include them with this post. 

BobLewisPhoto


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

welcome Bob...
if the pictures are stored on your computer that you are posting from you can load them using the drag and drop feature just under the reply block...

don't know anything about your router..


----------



## BobLewisPhoto (Mar 12, 2016)

OK lets see if this works


----------



## BobLewisPhoto (Mar 12, 2016)

Got it, thank you! :smile:



Stick486 said:


> welcome Bob...
> if the pictures are stored on your computer that you are posting from you can load them using the drag and drop feature just under the reply block...
> 
> don't know anything about your router..


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

that's one way to git'er done...


----------



## Dr. Rdr (11 mo ago)

arigger said:


> Hello nice people in routerland!
> I apologize in advance... This is a re-post.
> I'm looking for a solution to a problem I'm having with a Ryobi 161 or 163 router.
> I'll bet it's an older model 'cause it doesn't look quite like the photo on Ryobi's website.
> ...





arigger said:


> Hello nice people in routerland!
> I apologize in advance... This is a re-post.
> I'm looking for a solution to a problem I'm having with a Ryobi 161 or 163 router.
> I'll bet it's an older model 'cause it doesn't look quite like the photo on Ryobi's website.
> ...





arigger said:


> Hello nice people in routerland!
> I apologize in advance... This is a re-post.
> I'm looking for a solution to a problem I'm having with a Ryobi 161 or 163 router.
> I'll bet it's an older model 'cause it doesn't look quite like the photo on Ryobi's website.
> ...


I had this issue with my ryobi fixed base router and was able solve it by filing down the section of plastic housing that was blocking the depth adjustment (see photo). I did not need to disassemble anything to do this.


----------



## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum @Dr. Rdr


----------

