# Router lift / Something you have never seen



## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

After two years of use and development I have a new router lift to display. This is like no other router lift. It has two positions to mount the router. Vertical like the rest of the lifts and horizontal for mortise and tenon cuts.

Its very accurate and hasn't lost any abilities in over two years of use.

Easy to build with parts from the box stores. Less than $10.00.

Easy to change bits.

Very easy to adjust.

Adjusts from the top or under the top.

Easy to build with scraps in the shop.

Better in many ways than store bought lifts. 

Wont sag your table.

Can be put in and out in less than a minute.

PM me for more details

Watch my Youtube videos for better understanding. Then lets discuss yea or nay welcome.

Al B Thayer

Router Lift 1 - YouTube
Router Lift 1 - YouTube
Router Table Tenon Cut - YouTube


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## Rogerdodge (Apr 24, 2014)

Very interesting , Al . Thanks for sharing. I shall give this careful scrutiny to see I could
benefit from it.

Rog


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## Alastair (Jul 31, 2013)

Can you give a bit more information of how it switches from vertical to horizontal. Also the link to Ebay.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

*Two positions*



Alastair said:


> Can you give a bit more information of how it switches from vertical to horizontal. Also the link to Ebay.


There are two positions to hold the router. With a 7/16" wrench it clamps in place either in vertical or horizontal position. Quite simple and takes less than a minute. I think the video shows how it goes in the vertical position. The second position is below it.


<<<<Please contact Al for details,,,>>>>


Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Rogerdodge said:


> Very interesting , Al . Thanks for sharing. I shall give this careful scrutiny to see I could
> benefit from it.
> 
> Rog


Please do. I'm counting on the group to rake me over the coals on this one. I don't think the system can be beat and the cost of the lift minus wood found in your shop is less than $10. 

Thanks Al


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Al I like the sliding table for horizontal use.

Looks like it would be an easily built lift for someone that would like a lift for their router.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

MEBCWD said:


> Al I like the sliding table for horizontal use.
> 
> Looks like it would be an easily built lift for someone that would like a lift for their router.


The lift is very easy to build. I'm not showing the section that sets it apart from all other lifts out there. But anyone can PM me for the details.

The mortise table is a Greg Paolini design. I have a version that is better but for the sake of getting this lift to a point where I can demonstrate its opperation. I put this one on it. The rails are 8020 and cost less than the skinny blue ones everyone is so fond of. Cost was a factor to make it posible for anyone to build. 

Thanks for your vote on easy to build. Did you see the videos?

Al


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Impressive setup Al . I always thought having the table lift up off the router was a great idea . 
I was wondering if your lift could inadvertently change height wise during use or is there a way to lock it down ?


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

*Adjustments on demand*



RainMan1 said:


> Impressive setup Al . I always thought having the table lift up off the router was a great idea .
> I was wondering if your lift could inadvertently change height wise during use or is there a way to lock it down ?


Come on Rain, it does everything but the dishes. You can change height at any time from the top behind the fence. Behind the fence is another improvement over other lifts so as to not get in the way of hold downs and such.

There is a lock down for it but it hasn't needed one except when I was spinning a large bit on one of my older models. This is the third gen. The lock down can be loosened by reaching under or by lifting the top.

One full turn is 1/16" so if you want to move it 1/128" that is easy to do. Half turn is 1/8" and so on. 

Thanks for asking. 

Al


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## WatsonComeHere (Aug 13, 2014)

Are you using 8020 aluminium on your sliding table? Are you using any type of linear bearings or just having it slide on the dadoes cut into the work pieces? 

Nice looking setup.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

WatsonComeHere said:


> Are you using 8020 aluminium on your sliding table? Are you using any type of linear bearings or just having it slide on the dadoes cut into the work pieces?
> 
> Nice looking setup.


Good eye. It is 8020. I don't know why it's not more popular than the blue stuff. Maybe guys don't know they can get about any of the profiles on eBay dirt cheap.

There are 5 bearing surfaces the lift opperates on. Each are 12" long. It's more than a simple dado. That's why it works so well. If you PM me I can get you all the answers.

Also if you think about how the lift moves. Only about 1 to 2 inches either way. It also moves really slow so it doesn't have any measureable ware over the life of its use. These are reasons this lift works well and there really isn't any need for expensive linear bearings. A fast simple adjustment can be made if the lift were to become less than perfect.

Thanks

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

*New YouTube*

I've put together another short video to answer some questions I've been asked.
Router Lift 4 Al B Thayer - YouTube

Thanks Al


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Nice Job Al!!!


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Al B Thayer said:


> I've put together another short video to answer some questions I've been asked.
> Router Lift 4 Al B Thayer - YouTube
> 
> Thanks Al


The new video does answer some of the questions people have been asking.

Changing from horizontal to vertical use is easy, just changing the router from one clamp to the other and tightening the clamp. Remember you will make the mounting clamps to fit your router so any router can be used and you can make mounts to fit several routers if you like.

Remember Al is showing the basic parts of the lift with the most cost saving hardware in use. You can change from a bolt and nut to a bolt and ratcheting handle on the router mount for quicker change over of the router. You can use small finger knobs instead of just nuts on the stops, this is up to you to modify the plan to fit your needs but remember the plans are showing you the cheapest method of construction. You might just want to have a dedicated wrench to use with the basic hardware so it will always be handy and save the cost of those expensive knobs. If you want to use knobs then check out the posts here on the forms for knobs that you can make yourself to save money instead of buying them.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Al my friend, that is a nice-looking contraption! Your use of aluminum extrusions and high quality fasteners impresses me. Obviously, your accuracy in building this was very high. Keep-up the good work and please let me know if I can help you with anything such as drawings (2d or 3d) - done at no charge for my friends. I can send these to you as .pdf or .stl format for your use.

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

*You aint kidding*



MEBCWD said:


> The new video does answer some of the questions people have been asking.
> 
> Changing from horizontal to vertical use is easy, just changing the router from one clamp to the other and tightening the clamp. Remember you will make the mounting clamps to fit your router so any router can be used and you can make mounts to fit several routers if you like.
> 
> Remember Al is showing the basic parts of the lift with the most cost saving hardware in use. You can change from a bolt and nut to a bolt and ratcheting handle on the router mount for quicker change over of the router. You can use small finger knobs instead of just nuts on the stops, this is up to you to modify the plan to fit your needs but remember the plans are showing you the cheapest method of construction. You might just want to have a dedicated wrench to use with the basic hardware so it will always be handy and save the cost of those expensive knobs. If you want to use knobs then check out the posts here on the forms for knobs that you can make yourself to save money instead of buying them.


It has its share of Hillman knobs on it and they do add up quickly. I like the speedy ratchet wrench and used the same size for all. So a dedicated wrench for $12 might actually be cheaper.

Good idea on making them.

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

OPG3 said:


> Al my friend, that is a nice-looking contraption! Your use of aluminum extrusions and high quality fasteners impresses me. Obviously, your accuracy in building this was very high. Keep-up the good work and please let me know if I can help you with anything such as drawings (2d or 3d) - done at no charge for my friends. I can send these to you as .pdf or .stl format for your use.
> 
> Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


Wow. Thanks so much for the kind words and offer. 

Ive used 8020 on 6 different fixtures and machines. This is the first time using this profile. If one buys it on ebay it costs less than the blue t stop. It really has some heft to it too. 8020 has quite a few inserts that fit the slot for different applications. Some for sliding bearing and some for locking a stop. 

This one is for mounting a swinging door. I used it to make this flip stop on my cut off saw.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

paduke said:


> Nice Job Al!!!


(bowing) thank you.


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## 60seagulls (Jun 23, 2013)

A link to your plans on ebay Please


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

When I posted this lift here. I was hoping to get more feed back on it. There are many guys on this forum with great advice and knowledge. 

Any feed back would be great. Good or bad. What don't you like about the lift? What should I change? 

Thanks 

Al


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

One suggestion for the clamp that holds the router motor Al. Instead of a bolt and nut use a threaded insert on the far side and a socket headed bolt on the near side, either hex or torx, with a hole in the side of the casing for a long T-handled wrench of the same to reach through. Much faster and easier than an open end wrench.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Threaded insert yes but if you look in the videos, Al uses ratcheting wrenches. I'd never seen them used before and went out and got a set (HF, fairly cheap but decent quality). That is by far the easiest solution. I use them all the time on my machines now and curse the designer that didn't leave enough clearance for them. Super fast to screw on or off a bolt or nut. They aren't perfect - they don't reverse, you flip them over to go the other way but a fantastic little invention. (one could argue that not having a reversing mechanism is a good thing - simpler, more reliable mechanism.)


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> One suggestion for the clamp that holds the router motor Al. Instead of a bolt and nut use a threaded insert on the far side and a socket headed bolt on the near side, either hex or torx, with a hole in the side of the casing for a long T-handled wrench of the same to reach through. Much faster and easier than an open end wrench.


Thanks Chuck. While working with my design partner, he had suggested the same. I worked hard in keeping the build down to as few operations as posible to make it as attractive to build as posible. So all the nuts and bolts required to set and adjust the lift, table, hold down clamps and stops are all done with a single wrench. 7/16".

I agree the socket head would be a nice clean look but threaded inserts can be a problem for some guys. And maybe not hold as well in plywood if the builder used a lesser quality. 

Have you seen those blue cam lever clamps sold by Rockler? Cam Clamps - Rockler Woodworking Tools They are actually the best easiest solution and I will be sending out an update with these and ideas like yours to those with the plan. These clamps have a great deal of travel and power. I was not a believer until I did some testing on a few models. They also stay adjusted because they can't turn themselves loose. What do you think?

Thanks for your reply

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

PhilBa said:


> Threaded insert yes but if you look in the videos, Al uses ratcheting wrenches. I'd never seen them used before and went out and got a set (HF, fairly cheap but decent quality). That is by far the easiest solution. I use them all the time on my machines now and curse the designer that didn't leave enough clearance for them. Super fast to screw on or off a bolt or nut. They aren't perfect - they don't reverse, you flip them over to go the other way but a fantastic little invention. (one could argue that not having a reversing mechanism is a good thing - simpler, more reliable mechanism.)


Right Phil and I love those wrenches. Thanks for chiming in. See my answer to Chuck. My design partner though the same as Chuck.

Hey a good tip for using the ratchet wrenches. After using it to tighten or loosen flip it before you lay it down to use again. It will be in the ready position to use and cuts down on the, Oops wrong direction tries. 

Thanks

Al


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Hi, Al.

This is a very simple and fantastic machine. Congrats.


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

Hi Al, That looks very interesting. My sn has a router, but no table and we have been considering the best way forward on this and your set up looks ideal.

I have only just joined, so will PM you later for more details if I may. Thanks for showing your videos.

Malcolm


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Badger2 said:


> Hi Al, That looks very interesting. My sn has a router, but no table and we have been considering the best way forward on this and your set up looks ideal.
> 
> I have only just joined, so will PM you later for more details if I may. Thanks for showing your videos.
> 
> Malcolm


There are a few guys in the UK that have built my lift. When you finish yours post some pictures here.

Al


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

There is one major improvement that comes immediately to mind and that is to replace the chuck with a MUSCLECHUCK . These days even one spanner is one too many. A half turn of a 4mm Allen key is all that is required to lock/unlock a bit.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Al B Thayer said:


> Thanks Chuck. While working with my design partner, he had suggested the same. I worked hard in keeping the build down to as few operations as posible to make it as attractive to build as posible. So all the nuts and bolts required to set and adjust the lift, table, hold down clamps and stops are all done with a single wrench. 7/16".
> 
> I agree the socket head would be a nice clean look but threaded inserts can be a problem for some guys. And maybe not hold as well in plywood if the builder used a lesser quality.
> 
> ...


 I missed your reply Al. Sorry about that. The cam locks are an excellent idea. Easy to adjust for tightness, fast, and secure. A little more money for parts but for lots of people it would be worth it. Reid Tool (I think they changed their name to Essentra) carries a huge line of tooling and jig parts and might be cheaper.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

harrysin said:


> There is one major improvement that comes immediately to mind and that is to replace the chuck with a MUSCLECHUCK . These days even one spanner is one too many. A half turn of a 4mm Allen key is all that is required to lock/unlock a bit.



If they were less fond of their mussel, maybe. $$$$$$$ But your right. Then again if you used a lift like this. You would have to have at least on bad aspect to it. 

Al


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I missed your reply Al. Sorry about that. The cam locks are an excellent idea. Easy to adjust for tightness, fast, and secure. A little more money for parts but for lots of people it would be worth it. Reid Tool (I think they changed their name to Essentra) carries a huge line of tooling and jig parts and might be cheaper.



Honestly. I surfed the net over looking for a link like this. Thanks a lot. The pair from Rockler is not a bad price. 

Thanks 

Al

BTW I'm considering doing a metric Spanish version due to sales in Spanish speaking countries. I forgot only two countries play with inches.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Al B Thayer said:


> If they were less fond of their mussel, maybe. $$$$$$$ But your right. Then again if you used a lift like this. You would have to have at least on bad aspect to it.
> 
> Al


I believe in keeping it simple, this is my very efficient router lift.


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## Cockroach88 (Dec 10, 2014)

Hello Al, I can't seem to find a link to buy the plans for your table. Can you post that?


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

harrysin said:


> I believe in keeping it simple, this is my very efficient router lift.


That's nice but I don't think it's very simple. How do you adjust it a little tiny bit?

Al


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You raise the bit too high then slowly lower it and if this isn't accurate enough the router has a micro adjuster but this is rarely necessary, because it's wood that we're working with, a couple of thou. is neither here nor there considering how wood moves with the weather. I'm really not trying to be a smart arse, I'm basing all my remarks on coming up for forty one years routing experience.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Harry, once you raise the router to required height, do you then lock it in place with the locking lever on the router?

The lever itself does not seem to have a positioning lock?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Yes.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

harrysin said:


> You raise the bit too high then slowly lower it and if this isn't accurate enough the router has a micro adjuster but this is rarely necessary, because it's wood that we're working with, a couple of thou. is neither here nor there considering how wood moves with the weather. I'm really not trying to be a smart arse, I'm basing all my remarks on coming up for forty one years routing experience.


Well I can agree with the working with just wood part too. But trying to dial in a cope and stick cut with your foot looks like a nightmare. I don't use a micrometer in my shop and once I worked with a guy that did. He was always taking way too much time at the saws because he was trying to dial everything in. When you take into account that the the largest bits and the smallest bits don't very more than 2 to 3" in height. It would only seen right to divide that amount into small increments with the greatest amout of accuracy.

Too bad the lift manufactures built there products on the older concept of needing a large plate to cover the large hole you need to pull the router up through. Which in my opinion will be not so popular in a few short years. I'm selling lift plans all over the world as of late. 6 different countries so far. We are coming out with a ready made lift manufactured here in the states that will be well under the cheapest lift currently on the market. Not made from wood. 

Harry do you guys with Tritans just leave them in the router table and use another router for hand work? I've never heard a bad word about the router but I know they're a real brute. 

Al


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Yes.


Thanks, wasn't sure.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Well I'm happy to say. We have had a great amount of interest in the router lift. Sold over 50 copies in 9 different countries. Including Chile, Korea, England and today the 3rd time going to Australia. 

We will be putting together a new plan for a mortise machine to be available late Feb.

Thanks for all the kind words.

Al B Thayer


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## Lidcombe (Nov 16, 2014)

Good idea Harry.
Everyone comes up with interesting jigs and fixes.
I just finished a router table and my lift is a wooden thread.
Works for me. 
Router sits in a cradle and the thread lifts the cradle.
Thread is 1 1/2" wide with 3 turns per inch.


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## Goblu (Mar 5, 2012)

Any plans for dust collection? I like some of the setups that have dust collection both under the table in a box and in the fence.


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## Goblu (Mar 5, 2012)

More questions:
1. Is there a detailed parts list and sources of parts, part numbers, etc? (I've gone mad at times trying to find specialized parts. 
2. What equipment do I need to build this? Mainly, anything beyond a tablesaw and router? 

It's a cool idea, to have both a horizontal and vertical capability in one table.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Goblu said:


> More questions:
> 1. Is there a detailed parts list and sources of parts, part numbers, etc? (I've gone mad at times trying to find specialized parts.
> 2. What equipment do I need to build this? Mainly, anything beyond a tablesaw and router?
> 
> It's a cool idea, to have both a horizontal and vertical capability in one table.


This is my design and I've been Using it for over 5 years. If you want to build it and need a plan. I have a 32 page plan available. Just send me a PM

Table saw,drill press, $6 to $10 for nuts and bolts all found at box stores. Scraps from your shop. Can't be built from construction grade lumber. All my plans need to be such that special parts are at a very minimum. This plan uses a connector nut. But still found at the box stores. 

Al


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Al, very interesting and thought provoking. I don't know how much advice you can really get until a person uses it, having said that, I watched 4 of your videos, (are there more?), I've toyed with the idea for several years of making a horizontal router table that has a swinging or arcing mechanism in it to allow me to change the angle of the router. (But thinking about it is as far as I've got so far. When I REALLY need to have it, that's when I'll get serious!)

Anyway, great job!


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Jack Wilson said:


> Al, very interesting and thought provoking. I don't know how much advice you can really get until a person uses it, having said that, I watched 4 of your videos, (are there more?), I've toyed with the idea for several years of making a horizontal router table that has a swinging or arcing mechanism in it to allow me to change the angle of the router. (But thinking about it is as far as I've got so far. When I REALLY need to have it, that's when I'll get serious!)
> 
> Anyway, great job!


Well Jack if you already have a router lift you can build this one to complete what your router table and or lift left out.

My router lift plan has sold in 10 different countries and almost 100 copies. I haven't had a single complaint or negative comment.

Al

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJZe8e1BsX0&feature=youtube_gdata_player


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## MeRLiN4U (Jan 14, 2013)

this looks very nice, impressive. /M


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## Belg (Nov 2, 2011)

Al, did you wind up incorporating the cam clamps?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Pat his last activity on the forum was January 2016. You could try sending him a PM. If he still has the same email address he should get that. Best to send him your email address when you do as there was a password change back around that time I think and he may not be able to log back into the forum to answer a PM.


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## rhickman173 (May 2, 2020)

I understand there has been an absence of the plan creator. Is it possible to get in touch with him still, on eBay, or some other way?

Rick

Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

Al B Thayer said:


> When I posted this lift here. I was hoping to get more feed back on it. There are many guys on this forum with great advice and knowledge.
> 
> Any feed back would be great. Good or bad. What don't you like about the lift? What should I change?
> 
> ...


Al looking at your photos sideways, I cant tell you how annoying that is, that they are 90 degs to the side. N


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

It turned out nice, but I believe it had already been developed with metal...

Seem like the one I saw was expensive..


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

rhickman173 said:


> I understand there has been an absence of the plan creator. Is it possible to get in touch with him still, on eBay, or some other way?
> 
> Rick
> 
> Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk


Al sells his plan on ebay, you can contact him there most likely.

RightSide Router Lift PLAN in a PDF file | eBay


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