# Which Dovetail Jig to buy



## Bobby V (Oct 19, 2009)

HI
I am a entry level woodworker here and still setting up shop. I’m about to choose a dovetail Jig and I like the Rockler for the $$ but I’m wondering if I can justify the $$ for the Porta-cable 4212. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks
Bobby V


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bobby

That's a hard one ,,it's almost like asking what kind of car to buy,,,,,,,everyone has the one they bought and it's the best just like a car..

Buy the best one you can afford and do your home work..

I like the Katie dovetail jig, I'm not the sharpest pencil in the box I wanted one that is easy to use ..see what I mean 


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Bobby V said:


> HI
> I am a entry level woodworker here and still setting up shop. I’m about to choose a dovetail Jig and I like the Rockler for the $$ but I’m wondering if I can justify the $$ for the Porta-cable 4212. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks
> Bobby V


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Bobby,

Go with the Katie like BJ recommends if you can swing it. Nice and simple and can do a about any job. One BIG plus is that it works with the router "in the table" :dance3:


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## romanf (Oct 1, 2008)

If you plan on doing other joints like box joints, sliding dovetails, etc. then get an Akeda. It is very simple to use, does not require a lot of assembly and is extremely well built. You can check it out at akeda dot com


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## Schechner (Oct 13, 2009)

My money would go for the Leigh D4. But the other posters are absolutely right - if you ask 10 different woodworkers, you'll probably get 10 different answers. *shrug*


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## knothead1234 (Oct 17, 2009)

I bought my super 18'' leigh for $290 plus shipping at Valley Supply Canoga Park ca. (818)340-2630 I did my home work for 3 months you can also buy other templates for it


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## Tom Hintz (Aug 31, 2009)

One of the big problems with dovetail jigs is that there seems to be a direct link between price and frustration with many of them. The less they cost, the more they frustrate.
I have long been a fan of the Leigh jigs even though they represent a sizeable investment. I would love for them to be free or close to it but that isn't reality. I don't mind paying for good equipment that works very well and then keeps working that well for many years.
I have reviewed the Rockler jigs and for the money, I think they are one of the better values out there. If the Rockler jig fits the budget, good deal, if you can swing the Leigh I urge you to consider that one as well.


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## David K. (Aug 28, 2009)

OK, in the spirit of "the only bad question is the one that isn't asked"... Has anyone any opinion on the General Tools Pro Dovetail Jig at HD (home depot). I too am just getting into woodworking and this looks too simple to be hard.


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## Schechner (Oct 13, 2009)

David K. said:


> OK, in the spirit of "the only bad question is the one that isn't asked"... Has anyone any opinion on the General Tools Pro Dovetail Jig at HD (home depot). I too am just getting into woodworking and this looks too simple to be hard.


In my experience, if it seems too nice and easy, it probably is much more complicated (or poorer quality) than it seems. I haven't actually seen this jig, but based on the pictures from the manufacturer's website, I'd probably pass. 

I have to admit I use a very cheap and small Craftsman dovetail jig. It's made of plastic so it requires a little tweaking here and there, but the setup is a breeze, as opposed to other jigs I've used. 

If you're going to spend $60 on a dovetail jig, I'd spend a few bucks more and go for a Rockler or Jet. You can probably find one on craigslist depending on where you live, maybe for even less.


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## Echonav (Sep 17, 2009)

The biggest problems with virtually all dovetail jigs are 1) setting proper bit depth and 2) accurately setting the position of the finger template. Once these two settings are dialed in you can cut consistent dovetails over and over on pretty much any dovetail jig. The problem is it can be very frustrating trying to get these setting right. 

The Leigh jigs strength is in its accurate vernier scale used to adjust the finger template. The biggest complaint with Leigh jigs is setting router bit depth. I know two friends that have D4R’s sitting in their garage collecting dust because they don’t like the hassle of setting up bits in the router. The manual makes it look easy; but in reality, it’s a bit more work than you think.

Akeda jigs are easy to set up the jig, but it can be a real hassle setting the proper bit and depth in the router (read the reviews, lots of complaints here). I am not a fan of the Akeda jig.

The Porter Cable 4212 is a brute and uses crude thumbwheel nuts and a guideline cut in the template to adjust the template position. The guideline on the finger template will get you in the ballpark but numerous adjustments may be required to dial in the perfect template position. The problem is the thumbwheel nuts are not very accurate and tends to move the template when you tighten them. The router bit depth setting guide is handy but you will still need to tweak bit depth.

Then there are the inexpensive jigs. They are no better or worse than all the expensive fancy jigs because it all boils down to proper template and bit depth setting.

Single pass half blind dovetails are the easiest to setup and cut because you do not need to reset the jig between pin and tail cuts. 

Through dovetails can be a bit more of a challenge because you need to re-setup the jig and may also need to change router bits between pin and tail cuts. Touch the jig or change router bits and you can bet you will be fine tuning all over again. 

All dovetail jigs will guide a router in a way that will cut dovetails. It’s the setup that is the real issue. My advise, start with an inexpensive Rockler type dovetail jig and get familiar with the in’s and out’s of cutting dovetails; than you can decide if it is really worth spending $400 - $600 of an expensive dovetail jig. Unless you really need variable spaced finger I suggest you stay away from the hi end jigs. They just aren’t worth the money unless you use them everyday.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rob

I must disagree with you  

The Katie jig is so easy it 's almost imposable to get a dovetail in wrong the 1st. time you use it..
Out of the box you can put in dovetails in about 5 mins or less unlike many of the others.. 

Many dovetail machines can and will drive you nuts trying to set them up..not to say anything of making fire wood the 1st. two hours or so..

Catalog #15 Page 3-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood


"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions." 
MIKE
Senior Moderator

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Echonav said:


> The biggest problems with virtually all dovetail jigs are 1) setting proper bit depth and 2) accurately setting the position of the finger template. Once these two settings are dialed in you can cut consistent dovetails over and over on pretty much any dovetail jig. The problem is it can be very frustrating trying to get these setting right.
> 
> The Leigh jigs strength is in its accurate vernier scale used to adjust the finger template. The biggest complaint with Leigh jigs is setting router bit depth. I know two friends that have D4R’s sitting in their garage collecting dust because they don’t like the hassle of setting up bits in the router. The manual makes it look easy; but in reality, it’s a bit more work than you think.
> 
> ...


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## romanf (Oct 1, 2008)

I don't have any problems setting the router depth on either the Leigh or my favorite the Akeda. I don't have a vernier scale on the leigh fingers, the fingers are normally set by eye. If you are referring to the scale on the sides of the template they are not even used. On the new VRS they are basically done away with. On the leigh you put in your wood, put in another cross board and mark it with a pencil. Then adjust the router bit until it is centered on the line. Simple. 

On the Akeda it is even easier because there is a window you can look through. Put the router on jig and adjust the bit until it is slightly below the wood you are cutting.

I like the Akeda much better than the Leigh. For someone starting out simple is better and Akeda is very simple.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

I guess I'll chime in by saying, I have to "3rd" what Bj is saying about the Katie Jig. No, I don't have one. Wished I did. I've always wanted a Leigh but, too pricey. Others have purchased the New PC DT jjg and there seems to more complaints than praise about it. What I do have, is a cheap craftsmen DT jig that IMHO is junk. I believe another member has already mentioned this in an earlier reply. Take a good close look at the Katie Jig. It follows along the lines of the OP jigs. K.I.S.S.


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

Bobby V said:


> HI
> I am a entry level woodworker here and still setting up shop. I’m about to choose a dovetail Jig and I like the Rockler for the $$ but I’m wondering if I can justify the $$ for the Porta-cable 4212. I would appreciate any advice. Thanks
> Bobby V


If you only intend to make a few box joints, you can make a simple jig to make these from scrap mdf and less than an hour of your time.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

here is the one i have It is very easy to use Only 1 set up will cut tail's and pins And very tight No messing around I have used it for a couple yrs now Gifkins Dovetail Jig You can get it from japan wood worker


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## blackemmons (Apr 10, 2006)

Echonav,

I have to strongly disagree with you about the Akeda. I started with the PC and now have the Akeda BC24.

I don't know if you have ever used one but setting the bit depth is a piece of cake. You don't use any guide, you do it right on the board you are doing so you can see exactly where the cut will be made.

I researched the jig for three months before I purchased it and when I got it I had through dovetails in less than an hour of opening the box(s). And they were perfect. You said, "(read the reviews, lots of complaints here)". Would you please forward me some links to these from users. Maybe I made a mistake. 

Thanks,
Jim



Echonav said:


> The biggest problems with virtually all dovetail jigs are 1) setting proper bit depth and 2) accurately setting the position of the finger template. Once these two settings are dialed in you can cut consistent dovetails over and over on pretty much any dovetail jig. The problem is it can be very frustrating trying to get these setting right.
> 
> The Leigh jigs strength is in its accurate vernier scale used to adjust the finger template. The biggest complaint with Leigh jigs is setting router bit depth. I know two friends that have D4R’s sitting in their garage collecting dust because they don’t like the hassle of setting up bits in the router. The manual makes it look easy; but in reality, it’s a bit more work than you think.
> 
> ...


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## jmg1017 (Apr 9, 2009)

Well I have to put in a vote for the Leigh jig. It's the only jig that has variable pin/tail width and looks the closest to hand cut. I just bit the bullet and got the Leigh 12" Superjig. First off I'll say that ANY tool that performs very accurate repeatable cuts requires some initial setup and tweaking. If you're not willing to read and understand the manuals and invest the time then you'll never get great results no matter the manufacturer.
Setting bit depth on the Leigh is as simple as accurately (there's that word again) scribing a line on the workpiece, then accurately (again) setting the bit to the center of the line. 
In my case I downloaded the instruction manual prior to getting the jig so the setup time was shortened for me. Still about an hour or so is needed to assemble, familiarize yourself, and make some test cuts. I gotta say the results were pretty impressive. Airtight through and half-blind dovetails the first time. Great product. Oh, and if you decide on the Leigh get the VRS attachment. Works great with very little or no sawdust on the floor.


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## ncparolelady (Jul 1, 2008)

*General Tools EZ-Pro Dovetail Jig*

Has anybody tried using the EZ-Pro Dovetail Jig from General Tools (available at Home Depot in my area)? I saw it in the store the other day and wondered if it would work (retails for $40). I'm not looking for something that is too expensive, just want to be able to cut dovetails to make wooden boxes (ie: jewelry, music, etc.). I've tried making my own jig with no luck. This one looks so easy. Then again, that's what you guys have all warned about. If it looks too easy, then there's got to be a catch. Just would like to hear from anyone that actually has one or has used one. Thanks.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

EZ PRO. is the same as below I think, it will work but it's on the lower end of dovetail jigs..

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

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## romanf (Oct 1, 2008)

ncparolelady said:


> Has anybody tried using the EZ-Pro Dovetail Jig from General Tools (available at Home Depot in my area)? I saw it in the store the other day and wondered if it would work (retails for $40). I'm not looking for something that is too expensive, just want to be able to cut dovetails to make wooden boxes (ie: jewelry, music, etc.). I've tried making my own jig with no luck. This one looks so easy. Then again, that's what you guys have all warned about. If it looks too easy, then there's got to be a catch. Just would like to hear from anyone that actually has one or has used one. Thanks.


I think that one is designed to work with a router table.


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## romanf (Oct 1, 2008)

blackemmons said:


> Echonav,
> 
> I have to strongly disagree with you about the Akeda. I started with the PC and now have the Akeda BC24.
> 
> ...


+1 The Akeda is the easiest to use jig I have ever seen. Amazingly well designed and built like the proverbial outhouse. Heavy. Another thing that has not been mentioned is the terrific service you get from the suppliers and the manufacturer of the Akeda jig. If you ever need technical support or just ask a question, you get to speak with the inventor and owner of the company.

He also was instrumental in the original design of the Leigh jig. So this guy knows his way around a dovetail jig.

I really can't say enough good things about this machine. (FYI I also have other dovetail jigs so I speak from experience about the Akeda and how it compares to the others. I am not relying on reports for my information.)

Take care.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

I just got my new shop notes mag. yesterday. I see that someone has rediscovered and old but, true idea for DT's. My grand dad when he was alive and still doing cabinetary, he used his TS, BS and routers to create them. I do suggest you take a good look at this. Again, an old idea made new again. 

ShopNotes Magazine - No. 108 Table of Contents


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Fast Joint precision joinery system sold through MCLS is another slick system worth taking a look at. All joint are made from the router table top via use of a 3/16" bit and template. With an assortment of optional templates that appear to be very reasonably priced. thru dovetails are limited to1/4- 3/8" stock and halfblind can be made with up to1/4- 3/4" stock. They advertise both are good for boards up to 14"s wide. Don't have one myself, (saving up for the LeighD4r) just another one of many worth a good look...

be sure to check out the accompanying video...damn, ya gotta love the internet..

Fast Joint Precision Joinery System


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Ptree and Oak Park and Rockler sale about the same thing, Ptree and MLCS are the same at almost the same price ( 2.oo bucks in total) but MLCS has free shipping that's a big plus for the bottom line...

I have the MLCS and it's a great jig.. the only thing I don't like about the system it comes with a 3/16" HSS bit..I thing they did that because the soild carb.bit likes to break easy..

I did one box and the bit was toast and black and blue.. so I now use the carb. bit but with care..
The brass guides are very high end type but you must check them once you open the box..they must be dead on..

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http://www.ptreeusa.com/fast_joint.htm
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TwoSkies57 said:


> Fast Joint precision joinery system sold through MCLS is another slick system worth taking a look at. All joint are made from the router table top via use of a 3/16" bit and template. With an assortment of optional templates that appear to be very reasonably priced. thru dovetails are limited to1/4- 3/8" stock and halfblind can be made with up to1/4- 3/4" stock. They advertise both are good for boards up to 14"s wide. Don't have one myself, (saving up for the LeighD4r) just another one of many worth a good look...
> 
> be sure to check out the accompanying video...damn, ya gotta love the internet..
> 
> Fast Joint Precision Joinery System


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

ncparolelady said:


> Has anybody tried using the EZ-Pro Dovetail Jig from General Tools (available at Home Depot in my area)? I saw it in the store the other day and wondered if it would work (retails for $40).
> Just would like to hear from anyone that actually has one or has used one. Thanks.


Yes, I have the EZ-Pro and it is _nothing_ like the HF jig.
It is very simple to use to make half-blind dovetails but I'm not real happy with the through dovetails but I don't make them anyways.
My only suggestion is to use guide bushings instead of the bearing included with the jig. I find it very easy to use on the table but it can be used clamped to the bench if wanted.
After getting the bit depth set correctly and also the pin depth stop, my joints are very tight and true. This appears to be the setup process necessary with all jigs.
If you don't need to make dovetails on a production basis, just as a hobby as in my case, I would recommend this jig highly.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Roger

You are right,, I got my jigs names switched around,,,I don't have the EZ Dovetail jig..I have not tried that one out..

It looked to hard for me 

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rcp612 said:


> Yes, I have the EZ-Pro and it is _nothing_ like the HF jig.
> It is very simple to use to make half-blind dovetails but I'm not real happy with the through dovetails but I don't make them anyways.
> My only suggestion is to use guide bushings instead of the bearing included with the jig. I find it very easy to use on the table but it can be used clamped to the bench if wanted.
> After getting the bit depth set correctly and also the pin depth stop, my joints are very tight and true. This appears to be the setup process necessary with all jigs.
> If you don't need to make dovetails on a production basis, just as a hobby as in my case, I would recommend this jig highly.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

In support of the Katie Jig, again, no I don't have one and, yes I do want one. I suggest you take a close look at Marc Sommerfeld's dvd, "Router Tables Made Easy". Marc shows just how simple and easy this jig is to use.


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## Echonav (Sep 17, 2009)

I think everyone agrees that "accurate" setup is what using dovetail jigs is all about. No matter how simple, fancy, expensive or exotic a dovetail jig is, if it and/or the router are not set up "accurately" it will not cut good dovetails. What Akeda does is eliminate jig adjustments and put the onus in router setup. I suppose that is a step in the right direction. 

By the way, I was able to cut great dovetails with a 15 years old Sears dovetail template..... Again, it's all about accurate setup.


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## Echonav (Sep 17, 2009)

By the way, this is my concern about the Akeda jig (from Benchmark)...

The Akeda has been specifically designed to offer no adjustment to the template system itself. However its claims of "no adjustment required" is fundamentally not true. There are in fact adjustments required.
All the fixed template design does is move the fit equation from the template and into the guide bushing and bit diameter. This ultimately translates into fewer opportunities to correct the fit since it is harder to make corrections changing bit and guide bushings than it is to move a template. The design of the Akeda in particular is closely dependant upon the guide bushing being nearly perfect; Standard guide bushings are NOT purposefully made to the tolerances required.

Since the template is fixed, adjustments are made using two additional proprietary router bits (the straight cutters) which are 0.004" under and oversize and / or using two 0.004" under and oversize precision guide bushings.

*As a result of this design, if the tolerance stackup of the guide diameter, router bit diameter, and spindle runout does not result in the desired fit, the user must start swapping router bits and guide bushings to try and find the right combination to achieve the desired fit. This is more of a hassle than simple reading a scale and moving the template.*


It should be noted that the over and under size router bits and guide bushings required to obtain adjustability are NOT standard therefore the base jig actually has NO adjustment capability.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

del schisler said:


> here is the one i have It is very easy to use Only 1 set up will cut tail's and pins And very tight No messing around I have used it for a couple yrs now Gifkins Dovetail Jig You can get it from japan wood worker


Del,

My vote is also for the Gifkins Jig.

For a beginner where variable spaced pins/tails is not an issue, great value.

If you are only going to do the occasional dovetail there is no need to outlay a great deal of money for something that will gather dust in the corner.

James


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James

The Gifkins Jig is a great..but sometimes you only need two dovetails in a 8" wide board and that's when the Katie comes into play..not to say anything about putting in blind dovetails, the Katie jig can do that also..  and all on the router table..


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jw2170 said:


> Del,
> 
> My vote is also for the Gifkins Jig.
> 
> ...


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## diggerop (Oct 18, 2009)

jw2170 said:


> Del,
> 
> My vote is also for the Gifkins Jig.
> 
> ...



I have just got a new Gifkins. Very impressed with it's simplicity. Cut the first test piece, - perfect result, straight out of the box. I got the full kit with all eight templates plus the variable space option.

Henry


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## Bobby V (Oct 19, 2009)

Thanks to all you guys for taking the time and for sharing your experience and thoughts with me. I am also new to this site and didn't expect such great feedback. I'll be checking out the other brands that were mentioned, I admit I had no idea how many were out there but at least now I have an idea what the concerns are and what to look for. Thanks again 
Bobby V


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Bobby V said:


> Thanks to all you guys for taking the time and for sharing your experience and thoughts with me. I am also new to this site and didn't expect such great feedback. I'll be checking out the other brands that were mentioned, I admit I had no idea how many were out there but at least now I have an idea what the concerns are and what to look for. Thanks again
> Bobby V


 
we're glad you joined us, Bobby.. and stick around.. there'll be more questions and answers to come!


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## blackemmons (Apr 10, 2006)

Echonav,

Have you personally used an Akeda jig and for how long?

Thanks,
Jim


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## woodworking_dad (Oct 30, 2009)

I use the Porter Cable 4212 and I'm happy with it. The Akeda jig seems to have a good setup for dust collection (important for an indoor shop) but I could not justify the price and the need to purchase all of the different bits.

I'd love to buy a Wood Rat, but that too is outside of my price range.

Good luck on your selection. It is a hard choice, so I'd take my time in the selection process.


Dave


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## woodworking_dad (Oct 30, 2009)

I forgot to add that I've been looking at the jig that Penn State offers, there are a lot of templates for different cuts that look pretty interesting.

Dave


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## shooterscott (Nov 5, 2009)

I would have to say get the Leigh D4R JIG. Very strong and the manual is the best for a jig I've seen. They are kinda pricey but I believe worth it.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

I have the gifkin's also I find it to be easy to use I have made at leat 100 jewelry box'a and drowers ect It is now 2 yrs and still as good as new Work's every time Just 1 set up for pin's and tail's I am on my 2nd set of bit's Cant go wrong with this one


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## Bobby V (Oct 19, 2009)

thanks,, exactly the type of info I was looking for


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## diggerop (Oct 18, 2009)

I posted earlier in the thread, had then just got the new Gifkins and only done a test cut.
Have made a few boxes since, one with variable spacings and I am delighted.
Anyone that gets one of these and follows the very detailed but simple instructions, should be able to produce perfect joints, first time, every time, as I have.

Caveat: This is an Aussie product and I'm a proud Aussie, so I could be accused of bias : )


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Henry, I have made many boxes with my Gifkins and have been very happy with it also. I would still like to one day have the Katie jig for the expanded options mentioned by BJ, but then again wonder if I would really use the other options


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

One quick question..comment...dissertation...Whatever..

I have been looking at all the jigs offered and considering the initial outlay of coinage I keep asking myself how many boxes am I going to make and for whom. I know from experience if you take em to a craft sale no one will spend the money for what you put into them in effort and time let alone the supplies.. I have had wonderful conversations with myself about this issue. I have decided I make "stuff" for me and people that appreciate it..wife, daughters grandchildren and great neighbors...I have been using the "Woodline jig for a while now and convinced myself to move up..So my dear Forum Friends please keep beating this issue and I will move up....just as soon as I suss out my sign project...I'm keeping score as to who likes what and why....Damn I love a close race..

Best Regards,
George Cole


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

LOL, George...


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

So George..... just what is the score now? I lost track :haha:


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Bob,
So far it's a tie but really hard to tell who's ahead. Honestly I am doing my best to justify the expense. My rational is that I'm retired, half way to 132 (thanks Jim) and as far as I know you can't take anything with you when you go....you know the extra charges for luggage...so why not get all the toys while you can..2012 will be here soon anyway..

George


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

George II said:


> Bob,
> So far it's a tie but really hard to tell who's ahead. Honestly I am doing my best to justify the expense. My rational is that I'm retired, half way to 132 (thanks Jim) and as far as I know you can't take anything with you when you go....you know the extra charges for luggage...so why not get all the toys while you can..2012 will be here soon anyway..
> 
> George


George..... go for it! You know you want to :dance3:


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## diggerop (Oct 18, 2009)

Bob said:


> Hi Henry, I have made many boxes with my Gifkins and have been very happy with it also. I would still like to one day have the Katie jig for the expanded options mentioned by BJ, but then again wonder if I would really use the other options


G'day Bob,
It's always nice to have all the options. I bought the kit Gifkin calls "The Lot," - all 6 dovetail and 2 finger joint templates and associated router bits. Probably overkill on my part, but I'm a tool fanatic.
Not sure what the earlier models did, but this new one will do standard through dovetails, variable spacing, angled dovetails. Can do longer sections than the 300mm specified. (Needs care in setup) Won't do blind dovetails apparently. I can live with that, - I'm used to putting false fronts on drawers as it is.
Given it's capabilities, my main reason for getting it was the almost foolproof setup arrangement, which if followed, gives first class results every time.
Apart from the safety aspect, I reckon I could have a complete novice cutting perfect dovetails in 15 minutes.
(Is my Aussie parochialism showing? ) : )


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Henry,

You are absolutely right in it being one of the easiest and fool proof jigs made, at least IMHO. My Gifkins is capable of everything you have listed and I have been most happy with it also. The Katie got my attention with the blind DT and the variable spacers, but like I said, not sure how much I would even need those features. Just the downside of being a toolaholic and always looking for something that does more I guess. :happy:


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## jmg1017 (Apr 9, 2009)

I just bit the bullet and got the Leigh 12" Superjig with the vacuum attachment. I wont use it so much for small boxes as I think they are too delicate for dovetail or box joints. Mitered corners with splined keys look best in my opinion. I do however make a lot of drawers and the Leigh jig does the best job of replicating the look of handcut dovetails. I like the variable spacing, really customizes the look of the joints.
Again, my opinion only.
Assembly and setup time is about an hour. This includes making practice cuts and fine tuning your settings. Then it's accurate repetition for as long as you can cut.
There are so many factors that go into the precision and accuracy of any of theses jigs no matter the manufacturer, thickness of pieces being joined, species of wood, guide bushing accuracy, router runout, operator technique, etc. The Leigh jig looked to me to be the one with the most accurate repeatable results. I'll give a bit more information as I get to use it more.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Bob said:


> George..... go for it! You know you want to :dance3:


I,m thinking about hitting the "Wood Show" when they hit Atlanta..Or as I like to call it.."Woodpecker Show" That's where all us wood peckers show up to spend our kids inheritance ..

"G"


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Dovtail Jigs are divided into three classes, expensive, workable but frustrating and a pattern to make your own jig.

The first group is made up of katiejig.com, akeda.com, leighjigs.com, kellerdovetail.com, mcfeelys.com/docs/prazi.pdf, gifkins.com.au and festool.com. This category is basically throw money at the wall and see if it sticks. All of the jigs work and share the same frustrations. When considering a dovetail jig, start with the end product and work backwards and you'll see that they all follow the same procedures.

Then, you've got the "standard import" jig that is available under a myriad of brand names and come in a broad range of completeness. The only one to offer anything different is the Rockler version. The most cost effective is the Craftex from busybee tools.

The last category allows you to make your own jig from a template. This is Richard Stottmann's jig. stots.com. He provides you the capability to make your own jig of any size. Of dovetail jigs, this one offers the greatest bang from the buck and the greatest versatility. The one drawback is the blind dovetail implementation is a kludge. 

My vote goes with Richard's for most use and the craftex for blind dovetails. BTW, all jigs, from the Gifkin's to the Stots share the same setup headaches. Once setup is complete and all adjustments made, they are all equally productive.

I hope this helps.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I'm going to make a some broad-brush generalizations here, but they are consistant with my observations. Your mileage may vary. These observations seem to apply to most templates and jigs.

At best, templates and jigs provide great repeatability and accuracy, once you have them properly set up / tuned. The amount of setup required can vary from jig to jig but all involve a level of upfront investment of time to accomplish this. This applies to dovetail jigs, the Incra (and other) fences when used for highly precise cuts, as well as templates themselves. Once the setup is complete (or template made), if properly designed and used they can save a lot of time and reduce the amount of firewood generated.

Take for example, a trivel design I'm using to hone my Incra skills (first page attached, free download from Incra.com). Making the body of the trivet simply involves 56 cuts lowering the wood over a spinning bit and sliding the wood between two depth stops. The upfront time is spent in setting the fence to cut precisely in the center of the wood and placing the depth stops for each end such that the two intersecting bits meet precisely at the same point. It may just be my shortage of skill but I've twice spent an hour or so tuning the stops and only have it within about 1/16" in a couple of places. After the second (last) adjustment though, I was able to cut 6 trivet bases (336 cuts across 4 different bits) in a bit over an hour. Once I get the final setup, a "production run" would be a breeze.

To a much lesser extent but the same is true with the 4 dovetail drawers I made for my shop. I spent most of an hour on the setup and about 5 minutes per drawer making the cuts. If it'd been a kitchen full of drawers, the time would have been very time effective for me (not yet having the skill for hand-cut).

Fortunately for me, the slight depth stop error on the trivets only showes up on the perimeter so I've been able to trim off the perimeter and end up with some pretty spectacular 4"x4" 3-D coasters made from Maple and Padauk, minimizing the firewood pile.

Anyway, I've found that with precisely sized square and flat stock and a properly set up jig, these cuts are relatively easy but they do not come without some investment of time up front. Since my mission is building my skills rather than production, I'm intentionally choosing projects that require different skills than those I used in my last projects. This puts me low on the learning curve, requiring a disproportionate amount of setup compared to others that have used these tools for an extensive period of time (like others here), but my point remains. There's an up front investment of your time.

Any one who approaches making dovetailed drawers (possibly other than in an assembly line, with previously set up equipment) expecting the speed and ease of "glue and screw" joints is misled. 

Good jigs and templates can help minimize making firewood from your prime wood, but they don't come without investment of time. Bad ones... well, I won't even go there... 

Just my $0.04... (just like $0.02, but twice as long!) 

<Edit> Hmm.. maybe I should have made that $0.06!!


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## PlayasTeo (Nov 14, 2009)

You may want to take a look at this two
Pins and tails dovetail jigs
Fast Joint Precision Joinery System
Good luck
Teo


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## PlayasTeo (Nov 14, 2009)

let me tell you this, when I first started dovetails I bought the rockler one which works o.k. but I have used it only two or three times.....since then, I have made about 8 projects using hand cut dovetails (one of them had about 80 dovetails) with a $15.00 japanese style saw from home depot and the veritas 14 degree saw guide from leevalley for $42.50.and had tons more satisfaction doing it this way then with the jig.
It just took me about 10 dovetails to get the idea.
There are a lot of articles about this in the different woodworking magazines.
Teo


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

PlayasTeo said:


> You may want to take a look at this two
> Pins and tails dovetail jigs
> Fast Joint Precision Joinery System
> Good luck
> Teo


Hi Teo:

Take a look at Oak-Park.com. You'll find the same products there. I don't know if OakPark is cheaper but certainly worth a look.


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## waynoe (Sep 29, 2004)

I agree with Ron on the three catagories of DT jigs only my descriptsions are a little more colourful. The only time I use a jig is when I have to make HB. I try and use through dovetails which I make on the bandsaw. It has its limitations but I find as a rule 
I can make the DT's faster and with less frustration than it takes to set the dovetail jig up. The learning curve is short. When I learned this method I found I was making acceptable dovetails in about an hour. This method is not good for a production shop but for what most of us do I think this is a good alternative. 
That's my .02
Wayne


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## masswood (Nov 28, 2009)

Look into the gifkins dovetail jig, its made in Australia and sold thru an outfit called Japanwoodworker. You will be cutting thru dovetails in 10 minutes, it is so simple to use. you are limited to thru dovetails though. its about $249 and well worth it.

Joe


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Joe, welcome to the RouterForums. Glad to have you join us.


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## masswood (Nov 28, 2009)

Dr.Zook said:


> Joe, welcome to the RouterForums. Glad to have you join us.


Thanks Dave, Hope to contribute here often.

Joe


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

PlayasTeo said:


> let me tell you this, when I first started dovetails I bought the rockler one which works o.k. but I have used it only two or three times.....since then, I have made about 8 projects using hand cut dovetails (one of them had about 80 dovetails) with a $15.00 japanese style saw from home depot and the veritas 14 degree saw guide from leevalley for $42.50.and had tons more satisfaction doing it this way then with the jig.
> It just took me about 10 dovetails to get the idea.
> There are a lot of articles about this in the different woodworking magazines.
> Teo


Hi Teo,

Just curious why you selected the 14 degree guide over the standard 1:6 or 1:8?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

These are as cheap as any I've seen. Freight seems a bit high, but they are heavy.
12" DOVETAIL ROUTER JIG/ Joint Dove Tail Machine New - eBay (item 200412973985 end time Dec-31-09 12:47:14 PST)

Cheers

Peter


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

istracpsboss said:


> These are as cheap as any I've seen. Freight seems a bit high, but they are heavy.
> 12" DOVETAIL ROUTER JIG/ Joint Dove Tail Machine New - eBay (item 200412973985 end time Dec-31-09 12:47:14 PST)
> 
> Cheers
> ...


This one looks like the same one at Harbor Freight & the HF cost a little more.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

It's almost the same,,most are made and sold by WoodStock but the one in Peter's post is the lower end model ,note the parts that are missing ,,

\==========


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

jlord said:


> This one looks like the same one at Harbor Freight & it cost a little more.


Hi James: there are three groups of dovetail jigs. The one Peter mentions is packaged in a myriad of different forms and degrees of completeness. The EBay one shows a handle missing but it should be in the box. Other than that it is relatively complete as I can see. Others are far less so and for a lot more money -- go figure.

Take a look at Rick Stottmann's (stotts.com) for the third type.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Hello Robert After all the information you have here, do you feel overwhelmed with information? You now have a lot of material to decipher.  I wish you well!


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I have the Porter Cable 4216 which is the 12" jig that comes packaged with through dovetail, half-blind, & miniature templates. Once you understand a few things about stock sizing & setup it is quick & easy to use.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Ron,

I think you mean stots.com... Sssssslurring your sssspeach again??? :haha:




allthunbs said:


> Hi James: there are three groups of dovetail jigs. The one Peter mentions is packaged in a myriad of different forms and degrees of completeness. The EBay one shows a handle missing but it should be in the box. Other than that it is relatively complete as I can see. Others are far less so and for a lot more money -- go figure.
> 
> Take a look at Rick Stottmann's (stotts.com) for the third type.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> Ron,
> 
> I think you mean stots.com... Sssssslurring your sssspeach again??? :haha:


Schmannnn doze kauphys is killll,lerssssss. Got it right in the notes, copied it wrong. Darn fangled computers always fouling tings up.

Thanks for picking up on that Jim.


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## the beaver (Nov 26, 2009)

I am awaiting my Leigh d4r from Rockler as I type. It is supposed to be here on wednesday. I have never even used a dovetail jig before, but I have always wanted one. I just got done with a pretty good job so I didn't mind dropping the big dollars on it. I will let you know how I like it when it gets here. After watching all the little demo videos on the Leigh site there was no other choice for me!


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Get one of these !
Looks like it might last forever. :sold:


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

It sure does, Gavin. The router does too!


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## laxknut (Oct 17, 2008)

gav said:


> Get one of these !
> Looks like it might last forever. :sold:


I'm wondering if the operator is already deaf? No offense intended to the operator, I'm an aural casualty myself, but that is a serious 220v powerplant he's holding sans ear protection.
Anyway, if you're looking for a cheap dovetail jig that comes effortlessly pre-claibrated and ready to use, I can't be of assistance.
My dovetail, fingerjoint, sliding dovetail, tenon joint jig of choice is the Leigh D4R. as long as you can read, the manual makes it difficult to make a mistake, a relatively short set-up time pays off, for series production, or for small scale production where a non-"stamped out" result is desired. 
-The users manual is the most comprehensive I've ever read, the Gideons should start handing them out....


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## JimBobWay (Jan 14, 2010)

WOW - Lots to read on this one. I thought I only had three to choose from; now I have seven. 
Thanks for all your comments.
Jim


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Check out the message about two post above, Cut dovetails with a band saw, and a table saw. Don't buy a dedicated jig, when you don't have to!


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## Packard (Jan 23, 2010)

Echonav said:


> I think everyone agrees that "accurate" setup is what using dovetail jigs is all about. No matter how simple, fancy, expensive or exotic a dovetail jig is, if it and/or the router are not set up "accurately" it will not cut good dovetails. What Akeda does is eliminate jig adjustments and put the onus in router setup. I suppose that is a step in the right direction.
> 
> By the way, I was able to cut great dovetails with a 15 years old Sears dovetail template..... Again, it's all about accurate setup.


I do the same. I have an old Sears router that is difficult to adjust for depth, but once adjusted holds its position solidly. I've set that for the dovetails and I never change it. So my dovetail setups are fairly quick.


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## PlayasTeo (Nov 14, 2009)

Hi Bob ....sorry it took me so long to reply..........the reason is that I think the 14 degrees dovetails are more prominent and so cosmetically they look nicer, as far as strength they are all strong enough as far as I am concerned.
Teo


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## tigerhellmaker (Sep 13, 2009)

Hi.
I bought stots jig for making jigs 
Everything will work correctly when I buy this set:
 Guide Brush Set
Bush sizes: 5/18", 3/8", 7/16", 1/2", 5/8", 51/64", 3/4"
>Dovetail cutter
21mm, 25mm or 32 mm length
In stost manual is 13/16 but I think 32mm will be also OK .


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

tigerhellmaker said:


> Hi.
> I bought stots jig for making jigs
> Everything will work correctly when I buy this set:
> Guide Brush Set
> ...


Hi Dominik:

Please keep us updated with your opinion of the jig. I've been looking at Stott's but I'm waiting for your report.

Thanks in advance.


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## Saint Jimbob (Apr 14, 2010)

Interesting discussion, and I really appreciated EchoNav's analysis near the beginning of the thread. Just starting out with routing, it's helpful to cut through the hype and ad copy, and just get to the essentials.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

*dovetale jig to buy*

this is the one i use I have had it for a couple yrs. now They have a new version now It is easy to use I have made 100's of box and dovetales and pins I have 2 routers and 2 tables they stay set up for dovetales and pin's So i don't have to change bits Makes it easy and fast One set up and cut's both It is GIFKINS made in Australia sold by the japan wood worker A little bit high price but very good Good tight tail's and pins Easy set up No reading and testing Just set and go here is the link 

Japan Woodworker iCatalog page 8


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