# CMT Industrio Router Table System (orange cabinet)



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

I'm starting a new discussion thread on the CMT Industrio Router Table System (the one with the orange cabinet) so that most or all of the information members have about it can be compiled in one place for ease of access now and in the future.

Several forum members, myself included, just purchased this table/fence/cabinet package from Amazon in a close-out deal and the boxes of parts will be arriving any day now. 

The Amazon page where this router table system can be found (as of this posting date) is:

CMT 999.500.02 Industrio Router Table System With Precision Fence, Phenolic Insert, Cabinet, Zero Clearance Inserts, Centering Tool & Insert Plate With 2 Aluminum Rings 

$304.50 with free shipping AND if you purchase a qualifying power tool (as little as $15) you get the 20% "accessory" discount of $60.

I, for one, am looking forward to reading and posting member tips on putting the cabinet and fence together, installing a router, and an ongoing discussion of various highlights and lowlights of using the table and fence.


----------



## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

Ladd, I don't know if that qualifies for any of the money or not

I did get my table in today. The tracking info said 3 boxes were shipped. Didn't say anything about 3 "HEAVY" boxes. This table must be a hunk. Hadn't had time to open the boxes yet, but maybe tomorrow. Will keep you posted.

Doug


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

BlueGoose said:


> Ladd, I don't know if that qualifies for any of the money or not


It doesn't, of course, but sometimes ya just gotta try. 



> I did get my table in today. The tracking info said 3 boxes were shipped. Didn't say anything about 3 "HEAVY" boxes.


If I recall, the fence weighs about 24 pounds and I assume that the top weighs considerably more. The cabinet must really weigh a ton. Gotta love "free" shipping!

Mine is coming out of PA -- I live in MD so I'll I might get it as early as Monday if the UPS folks work over the weekend, which you would think if they don't always do it they certainly would this time of year.


----------



## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

Took mine out of the box today. Going to look over instructions before I get started putting it together. I thought I had ordered a router table, I think they shipped an army tank instead. This thing is built to last. Can't believe how much it weighs. Shipping would have been as much as the complete thing if we had to mail it. Also, there is a 3' yard stick in each picture, to let you guys know what to expect:

I added another picture of the front of the fence.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Bule Goose


Looks about the same , but I don't have the orange cabinet..YET..


Here's a small tip, get a tube of clear silicone and but a dot of it in all the set screw holes,,,screw the set screw down and set the plate and the ring true and flat,the silicone will let you adjust it up or down but will hold the set screw from backing out..don't use Loctie......(use a credit card to level and set true) I did replace the ones that came with the top with some that are called dog point,,,they are flat on the ends and will not dig in and just a bit longer, if I recall they are 1/2" long...for the big drop in plate...


http://www.routerforums.com/table-m...-11-5-handle-spread-how-prevent-problems.html


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

*Rockler Safety Power Tool Stop Switch on sale 1/3 off, free shipping*

Not really the right place to post this I suppose, but in case any of the folks who just purchased new tables are interested, I just received an email from Rockler and, among other goodies, the Rockler Safety Power Tool Stop Switch is on sale for $20, down from $30. And with free shipping.

As a raw noobie, I know I'm way more attracted to buttons and flashing lights when it comes to tools and accessories than is needed, but being able to turn off the power by just bumping the switch with your knee, no hands required, seems like it could come in handy some day.


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Very nice their Blue Goose and congrats. Nice set up!

Corey


----------



## jer760 (Nov 17, 2007)

Geez! The one guy that reviewed it didn't think much of it.

"After 3 hours of assembling, which was a nightmare, the table was finally complete. There was an array of extra and missing parts. The fence took two people to move. The alignment of fence to router was juvenile. After being a master carpenter for 25 years, I would not recommend this table to anyone."

It'll be interesting to see what you guys think as it sure looks like a real nice setup.


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

It sounds like a ridiculously skewed review to me. Missing parts happen but no doubt that they will take care of that if that is the case. But I take this whole review with a grain of salt. The system is nearly identical to the bench dog set up. The fence is fairly stout but it's one of the best out there in my opinion. Blue Goose can give his impressions since he just unboxed his but I sure like what I see in his pics. 

Corey


----------



## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

BJ, Thanks for the tip. 

I got started on putting the table together tonight. Have about 1 hour and 45 minutes in router table so far. That was putting together, taking pictures, and working on a light that kept going out. I believe I could do it in 30-45 minutes if I had another to put together. Very simple if you read directions. There was a couple of places that the directions were not clear (might have been me) where I had to do a little figuring. Everything fit together perfect. Looking over the instructions, the hardest part is over. I am through with the cabinet and just like installing the top part. I would have gotten through tonight but my battery played out on my camera, so I thought that was a good place to stop. 

A lot of these pictures will make more sense when you start assembling the table. Could not attach all the pictures so I will post another message.

Pictures are numbered.

Will keep you updated.
Doug


----------



## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

Rest of pictures..

Doug


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks for the snapshots Doug

I'm looking forward to Tues. so I can play with the cabinet...also... 

I'm been getting some wheels together, so I can mount them to the cabinet and pictures just help do that, and now I know the ones I have will work ...with just a bit of rework.
Looks like I will drill a hole and retap some new holes in the black brackets,so I can just screw them in the same spot for the cabinet leg levers..

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90992
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90997
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94522

======


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> I'm been getting some wheels together...


I too would very much like to put wheels on my cabinet. How are you planning on mounting yours?

As a related aside, I'm concerned that the wheel assembly would raise the top of the table up too high for comfortable use.

I guess "too high" would depend on how tall one was to begin with though.

If the extra height is determined to be detrimental, any way of having some sort of retractable wheel setup?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ladd

I'm made some mounts or I should say I found some in the shop, that just fit over 3/4" thick wood stock and I was going to use the cabinet sides but I had a light bulb went on and said the same as you so , so I pulled some 1/4" flat stock and cut it to 4ea. 1 1/4" x 2" and drilled and taped a 1/2-20 hole in the plate and a hole on each end to hold it in place,,,,now the wheels are going to be mounted on the bottom shelft and will lift the side of the cabinet 1/2" off the floor...I guess I could use the ones that are bolted down with 4 screws/bolts but have the 4 with the one bolt in the center that will do the job...I think I'm going to glue in some 3/4 round over molding or some right angle table top brackets on the bottom side of the shelft to made sure it holds all the weight of the cabinet and the router...

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=1167&filter=casters
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3703

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=1989
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5114

http://www.grizzly.com/products/g7314

But then I'm 6" 4" tall so 3" is not a big deal for me,, as you can see I'm still in the air about the wheels , I guess I will just wait till I have the cabinet done and go forward at that point.. 

=====




Ladd said:


> I too would very much like to put wheels on my cabinet. How are you planning on mounting yours?
> 
> As a related aside, I'm concerned that the wheel assembly would raise the top of the table up too high for comfortable use.
> 
> ...


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> ...now the wheels are going to be mounted on the bottom shelft and will lift the side of the cabinet 1/2" off the floor...


Please take some photos when you do this -- I would very much like to understand your setup better. Thanks!

Since I would have to purchase the wheels from scratch, it is possible that a pre-made all-encompasing solution wouldn't be much of an upcharge, but I would still like to see how you and other folks have done it.


----------



## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

Completed installing top today. Add another 30 minutes to installation time.
All I like is installing the fence. Shouldn't take long. Had to stop this project to help my son with some lights on his cargo trailer.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks for tips Doug and for taken the time to take the snapshots 



==========


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a update on CMT router system

Price: NOW ! ! !	$519.99

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-999-500-0...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1196908308&sr=1-1

We all just got in under the wire ?)

==========

What do they say, if it can go wrong it will 
Who's law always takes over ? ..

I ordered the CMT from Amazon about the same time as Ladd and Blue did,,,WELL
I got mine today or to say part of it  they only shipped the fence and forgot to ship the cabinet and top, new guy in shipping I guess...got on the phone and ask what's up,,and she said we have UPS saying you got it , and I said O NO ,, and I know I was for in it when she said what is it,,,around and around we go, so the bottom line is, it's on the way by 2nd day UPS...but I may get one more fence who knows...but she did get it on the way again..
at the old price... so I'm in hold pattern till Thur. or Fri..






=========


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Just a update on CMT router system Price: NOW ! ! $519.99
> http://www.amazon.com/CMT-999-500-0...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1196908308&sr=1-1
> We all just got in under the wire ?)


Holy Smokes!!! I can't believe the price jump and only four tables left as of 8:30 EST Tuesday night.

I don't think I've ever had my luck go this way before! I'm always the guy that thinks too long about things and has the deal slip away.

Of course, knowing how Amazon works, we all caused the price jump. The table probably sat there with no one buying it for weeks -- then a bunch of us bought one in the space of a few days and the computers kicked it back up to a higher price. It'll probably drop again in a few weeks when no one buys another one at the current price.


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> ...and she said we have UPS saying you got it , and I said O NO...


The original shipping email I received from Amazon gave me one UPS tracking number. Perhaps the one tracking number your received was for the delivered fence.

If you go to your account on Amazon, you'll see that each of the three CMT boxes comprising the full table system order received their own tracking number; what does UPS say for the other two boxes?


----------



## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

BJ, looks like about the same fence. Is this the old one? That is a disappointment, to only get in one box. I know you were looking forward to receiving the complete table today.

Finished the fence today and the instructions covering this part, were terrible (at least for me). I have not seen a fence like this before and had to do some head scratching. A lot of the steps were not covered. Still had a few parts left over. I don't think I'm going to like the fence as much as I thought. Seems to difficult to switch from using the pivot pin to using the sliding blocks. Probably just keep the sliding blocks on most of the time.

I sure am glad we got in before the price went back up. I love this kind of deal. Hate it for the ones that did not get in on the good buy though.

Probably took me a good 2-2 1/2 hours to put the table together from beginning to end, but I'm not what you call mechanically inclined.

Am glad to help whenever I can. I know the pictures would have helped me if they were available when I started putting my table together. This should be the last of pictures unless I find something else that I think might help someone put theirs together. 

By the way Ladd, I'm 6' and I would like the table to be a couple of inches higher. So I wouldn't worry about the wheels making the table to tall. 

Doug


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

I have yet to start putting my table together and I am *extremely* grateful for the photos and accompanying advice. (Sure wish I had a few of the clamps you used!) 

I download the assembly instructions a week ago, read through them and thought "I have absolutely no idea what most of this means!" Parts in hand and your photos give me a fighting chance!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi BlueGoose

It's the new one just like the one you got...but with just some add on items and a bit of rework...

The fence is the best part of the system and you will see why when you view the DVD..

It only takes about 5 mins.to get the fence set to use out of the box unless you do what I did then it will take a bit longer..
The 1st thing I did was cut off part of the Vac.pickup tube off so my Vac. hose will just slip into the pickup,, then I put in 1/4-20 x 2" carr.bolts in place of the metric bolts that hold the poly. to the Alum.part of the fence, then I tap out the plastic knobs to 1/4-20 thread...I don't like to fool with Allen hex keys.
Note about the carr.bolts, chuck them up in the battery power drill and grind the heads down just a bit to fit in the holes,, top and side of the head,,then steel brush and buff them up to get that nice clean look and then a quick spray with some clear coat..
The parts you have left over you will see in the DVD, the wing nuts are for the tee-track on the top or for the 4 bolts that hold the insert plate down if I recall the other are extra parts ,just in case you drop one or two.
The plastic parts with the long slots also go in the box under the top in the box.
The wing nuts are one of the parts you want to put in the box under the top just in case you want to bolt the plate down but don't, it makes it a pain to pop out the router if you want to set it on top of the table top to change bit out, the Oak-Park way..
I do recommend getting the offset wrench sold by sommerfeldtools.com and you will see why in the DVD also...it makes it a snap to change the bit out from the top side of the table,,,it comes in nice when you don't want to move the router up or down when using a matched set of bits and again you will see why in the DVD's 


Lets talk about the fence,,,you will not need the poly hold down parts to the fence and I'm almost sure they will be in a box under the top most of the time the only time you will want to use them is when you want to use a hold down device that will want to lift the fence up just a bit off the table top..

Once you use the fence you will see how easy it works and how quick it is,,it's almost the same as the Oak-Park way but on stroids ..no " C " clamps needed..
I made some extra inserts for the fence today and I'm almost sure you will want to do the same, they are easy to make just rip some stock and cut it on the ends at 10 deg. on each end..they are 6" long the norm but they can be as long as 0" to 6" " long if you want..
The two metal bar parts that fit behind the poly fence are for the offset on the out feed side of the fence, just put them under the top in a box..or you can put them in the 2nd slot of the fence...you will see 4 slots,1/16" and 3/32" offset tracks, it's a nice touch for this type of fence,you will use them all the time with bits that don't have bearing on them..

I'm not to crazy about the lock down knob in the fence so I made my own that's just a round knob and a metric bolt, the 1/4 turn lock knob works well but my big hands did'nt care for it .. 

The Vac. pickup must be hammered into place you will some of the plastic come off but that's ok it's made to just fit right and tight...rubber hammer works well for this job but in the DVD you will see Marc just drive in place with his hand...but I don't like to hit a sharp edge with my hand..

A note about the price,,I think Amazon sold all it had in stock and the other outlets had it listed for the 500.oo plus price and they got the new orders,see the new and used item on the web page...it will list the others that have it for sale but at a higher price..
I did chat with Amazon and they have 3 left in stock but at the higher price and I did ask why it went up she said she didn't know but they have had them for a long time and just got many sales on them in the last week or so and when that comes about the computer will put them back to the normal selling price to recover from selling them at cost..so to say it may go back down in time...


Not getting all the parts at one time it's OK with ,it will give me time to rework the fence like make some more inserts and hold downs that work better than the standard feather board type..

Here's just one more small tip,,,a good place to keep the side poly blocks for the fence,is right on the fence,,,and use them for start and stop blocks on the fence,just pickup a 5/16-18 x 2" hex bolt and a washer and knob and slip it right into the poly block ,then slide in to the tee slot in fence,they will work great for that job and you will always have them right at hand when you need to used them for clamp blocks......to hold the fence down tight to the table top....

Don't miss place the square nut for the poly blocks, it's a real item to find (metric sq.nut) but the 5/16 x 2 hex bolt will just slip right into it.. 


Thanks for all the snapshots Doug 
and for all the tips...

======





BlueGoose said:


> BJ, looks like about the same fence. Is this the old one? That is a disappointment, to only get in one box. I know you were looking forward to receiving the complete table today.
> 
> Finished the fence today and the instructions covering this part, were terrible (at least for me). I have not seen a fence like this before and had to do some head scratching. A lot of the steps were not covered. Still had a few parts left over. I don't think I'm going to like the fence as much as I thought. Seems to difficult to switch from using the pivot pin to using the sliding blocks. Probably just keep the sliding blocks on most of the time.
> 
> ...


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

New Fence in place on the old table top ..

============


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

Just finished watching the Sommerfeld video "Router Tables Made Easy" which for the first 15 or 20 minutes talks about putting together the table and fence we've purchased and then uses it to make a raised panel cabinet with drawers for a router table top.

Glad to see the table and fence in action; you can't beat video for showing lots of information. Most of it made sense after viewing all the photos shown here.

Disappointed to see (although I'm sure it's not completely true) that with only a couple of thousand dollars more of various clamps, jigs, pocket holers, bit sets, dovetail jigs, band saws, table saws, nice wood, etc., I'll actually be able to make something.


----------



## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

Ladd, I hope the pictures are helpful. Maybe with them and the videos, you will have it pretty easy.

BJ, Thanks for all the tips. Looks like I could use all of them. I'll have to look into getting the offset wrenches like you suggested. Would make it very easy to swap bits. In your pictures, what is the weird looking tool on back of your table?

I used my table today and I think I'm going to love it. Large top, very stable and plenty of room to get to my router to change bits. 

thanks for the help,
Doug


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Doug

"what is the weird looking tool" = you will see one in the DVD, but it is just a quick way to come back to the same point with the fence, thats to say if you are using a matched set of bits with or without bearing on them you would turn the tool in the back and set it for the type of bit,,,

But now that I have a new fence for the old table top I need to rework it so it works on the fence, the screws need to be a be longer now or just one more hole in the top to remount it,, it's just a block of ALum. with holes drilled and taped for 1/4-20 ...

"offset wrenches" = you can make your own quick with cheap wrench and a torch and a bit of grinding to make it fit, if you view my gallery you will see one I made,,,that works just a bit easyer than the one from sommerfeldtools it has a smaller OD so it can get under the big bits..easyer...and a deeper offset..

I think once you use Marc's table you will like alot it's the best one I have...

It's like the Oak-Park setup but with just more and more 

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/search.asp?p=1&w=&c=WRENCH&t=s
===========


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a snapshot of the new fence and the old top, it's now set up to use..

http://www.routerforums.com/table-m...-11-5-handle-spread-how-prevent-problems.html

=====


----------



## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

New free fence..... When you get a deal - you really get a deal.

I saw where the extra parts went after watching the video. They should cut out the part on the video about putting the table together and include that on a DVD with the table. Would have been very helpful when I was working on mine.

I think you are going to be right about the fence. Each time I use it, I like it a little better.

Doug


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Doug

The DVD at one time came with the cabinet as a freebe,, buy this get this free DVD,,,..

Did you find the grommet ? Marc came up with that and it's makes it a big point about it in the DVD's , and it works great, I now have it in all my routers.

When I 1st. saw that I said he his all wet with that one,,,I like many others did just slip it in and just pull it out just a bit then one day I took a real hard look at all the collet nuts I have and they all work just about the same they grab the router bit at the top of the collet not the bottom, some have a small steel band of steel at the bottom of the collet to keep the shape but some don't but they all work the same way , some people put O-rings under the cutters to keep the bit up just a bit and off the rounded part under the cutter...if you take a hard look at all your bits you will see the same thing under the cutter base..but the grommet takes that error out quick
but I do use a rubber faucet washer in place of the grommet because it will stay in the bottom of the collet and it's just the right size for a press fit.


http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/table-mounted-routing/5027-setting-router-collet-6486.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/table-mounted-routing/5025-setting-router-collet-6484.jpg

=======


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ladd and Doug

Wheels 


=========


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Wheels


 Thanks for the photos. 

You had talked briefly about some sort of interior mounting so that the wheels would only raise the cabinet up about 1/2". Did you decide that it was too much trouble or that the extra height wasn't a problem?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ladd

"too much trouble" LOL
With the wheels on the sides of the cabinet it lifted it about 2" so it was not a big deal..

Plus I had the wheels made up , two screws and it was done..I did drill the small hole out just a bit to 1/2" so the stud of the wheels would slip in..

By the way do you have yours done ???,,if so how about a picture or two..


=======


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Ok this is the last of the snaposhots Sorry, but alot to show and tell about this item..


The new one is now done and setup to run...

===========


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Excellent Bj, that is a great looking set up! 

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

I think so too,,, they both have a 3 1/4 HP router in them and both have the VS and all the power I need..I'm not to sure why Marc Sommerfeld dropped them they are real well made, maybe for the same reason he dropped CMT line , higher prices....less money for him..

===


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Amazon only has 2 new at $519.99 and 4 used from $489.99

Think I'll stick with my OP table.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

Sometimes things just work out just right ,I got my setup for 234.oo bucks 


=========


----------



## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Hey Bj. In your last picuture, does the switch on the side turn the router on and off?
If it does, why did you mount it behind the receptacle? Seems the cord would be in the way. Am I missing something? (Besides brains)!!!!


----------



## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

Very nice setup, BJ


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

"does the switch on the side turn the router on and off?" = Yes

" behind the receptacle? " I'm going to use the cord/plug to find the switch Quick,,,my hand just moves back and I know it's right next to the plug that's sticking out..,,,,it's not a big deal I use this type of setup on all the routers tables I make...one outlet for the router and one for the Vac. or light.,a two gang outlet box works great for this job (plastic remodel type box) jig saw a hole out, push the box in place wire it up and it's done in about 5 mins..  and all for about $3.00 dollars..

Plus with this setup it can be used from the front side or the back side of the cabinet, that's to say the fence can be fliped around, to be used for the BIG panel work,,,The marking of the table top ( Marc Sommerfeld) likes to use the back side most of the time...but I have not gotting into the habit of doing it that way, but I did setup the switch so it could be used both ways I was going to put the switch on the top and the outlets on the bottom of the box but I have put so many in the same way I forgot about it at build up time.. LOL ,, but I still may do that becasue it can be fliped easy because it's a square outlet box..

Marc Sommmerfeld made his own table (cabinet) great looking cabinet by the way but he has the doors open all the time to switch the router off and on, I'm not to sure why he has not installed a switch on the out side of his cabinet he sales a switch that mounts on inside the cabinet and that may be why not...a 20 /20 hine site thing maybe...the orange cabinet only has doors on the bottom side unlike the one he made has doors and drawers for storage...I should note I may put doors on the top side to cut the noise down because it's close back side cabinet it likes to make more noise than the norm, the other one I made (cabinet) is open on both sides so I don't have that error,plus I can get to the router a bit easyer if it's open and it's a snap to blow out...


=======






Dr.Zook said:


> Hey Bj. In your last picuture, does the switch on the side turn the router on and off?
> If it does, why did you mount it behind the receptacle? Seems the cord would be in the way. Am I missing something? (Besides brains)!!!!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Doug

Did you notice the shelfs with holding set screws down under the shelf 

The cabinet is a bit tricky to get together ,it makes me recall the way of the VW eng.needs to go together ( like a peanut shell ) all the parts must line-up at one time...and like most of the things I do I didn't read the how-to so it took me a min. or two to finger out the X on top of 8 threaded holding inserts... 
That's a neat fastner for holding the cabinets together but it must drilled by a CNC machine,one off by 1/16" and it's a big hammer time...


After putting the wheels on I did luck out,it came out the same as my work bench or to say 1/4" below it..that should help with the big part jobs.

Did you put wheel on yours ? and if so how ? 
If not I have a tip for you 




BlueGoose said:


> Very nice setup, BJ


----------



## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

I had not noticed the screws under the shelf, that was good thinking. Did not think of that when I put mine together, mine are on top. Might go back and swap them. Looks better. Thanks.

Have not made up my mind whether to put wheels on mine or not. I will take the tip though, just in case.

Doug


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Doug

I didn't want the saw dust to fill the hole up ...so they got put in from the bottom side..

Pickup a set of wheels from HF, with 1/2-20 stud on them..
two of each
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90992
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=90997

The make a trip to ACE hardware and pickup 4ea. 1/2-20 Jam nuts and a 1/2-20 set screw (about 2" long) or a 1/2-20 bolt that you can cut off the threads and use it to line up the nuts on the CMT bracket.

Once you have the parts remove the 4 parts (brackets) you now have on the CMT cabinet,take some 3/4" MDF about 4" x 12" long,, remove the black plastic parts ,put the metal brackets on the 3/4" MDF and drill them out to 1/2",,4 holes total , now press the set screw in one of the holes and screw on one of 1/2-20 jam nuts in place , now place the MDF in the vise and braze the nut in place, 4 total..(in two spots only) keep a bit of water near by,,now move the set screw over to the new hole and do the same thing...you will need to use the same bracket you have because you have the holes drilled,,, now take a 1/2" drill bit and drill the holes out in the cabinet about 1/2" to 3/4" deep, screw the bracket in place then the wheels...with a lock washer on the wheel stud..

Hope this help you mount some wheels on yours also..

You may say why use jam nuts,,you want some of the wheel stud to fit in the hole in the cabinet because it only has two screws holding it place,,,with just a bit of black spray paint you will also have one that will roll round the shop out or out side the door..when you want to bug the neighbors,,, LOL that are having a BBQ,,, LOL hahahaha...pay back is hell ...


==========


BlueGoose said:


> I had not noticed the screws under the shelf, that was good thinking. Did not think of that when I put mine together, mine are on top. Might go back and swap them. Looks better. Thanks.
> 
> Have not made up my mind whether to put wheels on mine or not. I will take the tip though, just in case.
> 
> Doug


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ladd

Just checking in with you to see if you got your CMT router table set up with the new Freud 3 1/4 HP router..
If so how about some snapshots 


==========


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

Finally got some time to start putting together the table. Massive thanks go to all the photos and advice posted previously to help me figure out what to do, what to avoid and generally how to go about it.

Not much new to add photo-wise, but since rightly or wrongly it wasn't clear to me which press-in dowels were for the cabinet construction and which were for attaching the top, I documented that and how I pressed them in.

No photo of the final step of the procedure shown below (pressing in the dowels), was to put a set screw into each dowel so that the set screw is already threaded and waiting for you to tighten after assembling the cabinet parts. Much easier when each cabinet part is laying flat on the bench then crouching down later and trying to get the set screw started.

(i.e. after each dowel was fully pressed in and aligned at right angles to the cabinet or shelf side, put a threaded post into the dowel, then put in the set screw into the dowel until the threaded post won't pull out. Back out the set screw just until the threaded post will come out and now the set screw is in as far as it can go and not interfere with the threaded post insertion when you go to do the final assembly.


----------



## DougO (Jan 4, 2006)

I'm glad to see you have got to work on your table. I take it that you have it completed. This is a very nice unit and should last us forever.

Doug


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

BlueGoose said:


> I'm glad to see you have got to work on your table. I take it that you have it completed.


The cabinet is assembled and the top and fence have been put on. Still have install the router though. 

I've been reviewing the photos here to check on the orientation of the Freud router and wanted to see how the orientation shown in BobJ's setup (shown below) has worked out for him. Facing the table opening: power switch left, lock lever right.


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

BobJ:

How has the orientation of your Freud router in the CMT table worked out for you? (See your photo of your setup in the previous message).


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ladd

Works great, I have two tables setup the same way 

I should note*** the white router table is open on both sides, so all I need to do is pop the router out and turn it around so I can use it for wide stock (door panels,etc.) and all the controls are on the right side this way ... but the orange cabinet is not open YET.. but it may get a router job on it so I can do the same as the white one..( punch a hole in about 16" sq ) 


http://www.routerforums.com/62259-post2.html
========


Ladd said:


> BobJ:
> 
> How has the orientation of your Freud router in the CMT table worked out for you? (See your photo of your setup in the previous message).


----------



## Ladd (Nov 11, 2007)

*Mounting Bosch Jigsaw to Router Baseplate - finished*

I have finished mounting my Bosch 1591EVSK jigsaw to the underside of a baseplate that fits into the CMT table. 

The baseplate was made from a cutting board purchased at Sam's Club for $10

You can view text and photos by clicking  this link to the Mounting Bosch Jigsaw to Router Baseplate discussion thread.


----------



## EddieDfromDot (Mar 8, 2010)

*Anyone ever add a router lift to a CMT Table?*

I'm having trouble finding a router lift with an insert big enough for the CMT table.


----------

