# Fence True or not



## Ratt (May 25, 2009)

This was my first time watching router workshop and I dont understand, I thought all fences had to be true and acording to them he put the fence any way he wanted and it was supposed to still be true. Am I missing somthing can someone explane.


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

A router fence is not like a table saw fence... That is what is confusing you.

Work it out this way: Draw a circle on a sheet of paper. This represents the outer edge of your router bit (pretend it is a 3/4" straight cutting bit). Now draw a straight line so that it just touches the edge of the circle. Notice I didn't tell you were around the circle it would touch. Guess what, doesn't matter! Now suppose you drew another line so that it intersected the circle at two points. That is what you do if you are burying part of the bit inside the fence. Again, doesn't mater what "angle" you draw the line, you can always expose exactly as much of the bit as you need.

What IS important is that you understand that the side of the bit must be parallel to the face of the fence and both should be at a right angle to the surface of the table.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Andy,
You have to realize that you are working with a round bit in the router. Therefore it doesn't matter what angle the fence is to the bit. The fence can be true (square?) to the bit at any angle. That is one reason a miter slot is not really needed on a router table. Just the fence (at any angle to the bit) will do nicely. I hope this explanation didn't confuse you too much.

Oops! Rob beat me to it and his explanation is better than mine.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

ok, now you guys are making my head hurt!! *L*

I follow on the whole fence being parallel thing. But I've read now in several threads about there being really no need for a miter slot. Would zero inserts be taking the place of a coping sled? Edge routing a narrow piece of stock would almost require at least a zero insert? For those who have run thousands of pieces through the bit, I'm sure its more a matter of feel than technique. but for the rest of us, the use of a coping sled or miter gauge would be a much safer approach. IMHO... All of this is based more on inexperience than anything else and I'm really curious what the thinking is..
thanks


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

There is a need for a miter slot. Many jigs use them.
Not everybody has a miter slot. If you want one, put it in.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

You can make a coping sled that is pushed up against the fence like this one: Coping Sled LINK

Or you can make one that rides in a miter slot: Shopnotes Mag router sled LINK

Here is a router sled that's similar to ones used on table saws and rides in a miter slot: Router sled LINK










You may not NEED a miter slot, but then again some don't NEED a $170 router lift or don't NEED a $300 Incra router fence, but they're nice to have.

P.S.
Not sure if it's alright to post links to that site so remove it if necessary. Some forums don't allow links to other forums, but Lumber Jocks is like a blog with a lot of talented people also. They have tons of projects and some have posted links back to this forum too.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

TwoSkies57 said:


> ok, now you guys are making my head hurt!! *L*
> 
> I follow on the whole fence being parallel thing. But I've read now in several threads about there being really no need for a miter slot. Would zero inserts be taking the place of a coping sled? Edge routing a narrow piece of stock would almost require at least a zero insert? For those who have run thousands of pieces through the bit, I'm sure its more a matter of feel than technique. but for the rest of us, the use of a coping sled or miter gauge would be a much safer approach. IMHO... All of this is based more on inexperience than anything else and I'm really curious what the thinking is..
> thanks


Bill,
All I am saying is that I have never had a need for a miter slot on my table. I just use a push block or run a coping sled against the fence. In fact, the last set of doors I made, I used a push block instead of a coping sled. If you have a sled that requires a miter slot then you have to worry with getting the fence aligned perfectly with the miter slot. That is just one more thing to take up time and/or to go wrong. With or without a miter slot has nothing to do with safety if you are using a good push block or sled against the fence. It is always good to have a zero clearance insert no matter which method you use. It is one of those matters of personal taste. Some like miter slots on their table and some don't. I just happen to be in the DON'T column.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

Just my 2 cents 

Most tracks are not true,they can be off just a little and that makes it just so much hardware junk on the table..it's fine to hold fixtures (feather boards,etc.) but other than that...well...

A fence is always true to the bit..it can be and simple 2 x 4 or a high end fence but it's always true..it's just nature of the beast 

Some will say but I need a sled to hold the stock for me,,not true...you just need to think out side of the box..and let the bit work for you to hold it in place..

I guess should say what I mean by letting the bit do the work for you and doing it safe.
Any time you think you need a sled to hold the stock think about the way the bit set is make,it's match set ( male & female ) you always use the bit with the bearing in the center of the cutters 1st.

This is the key and the control part of the joints,,,you always want to ,use wider stock than what you want to end up with,lets say you want to have the parts 2" wide you would use 4 1/2" wide stock or wider...make your pass on the wider stock (4 1/2") on both ends ( once you have it cut to the right size) (Leigh) now sit it to one side,now pop in the other bit to the match set of of the R & S or T & G set,etc. once you have the bit in and set..
Now pick out some scrap stock from the same stock you are using, run it by the bit ( the bit with the bearing on the top of the cutter) i.e. 4 1/2" x 6" , this going to be the PUSH block, run the end and one side of the scrap stock by the bit,,,,now screw a handle to the push block...it will give you control of the part and let you hold it down in place and will stop the rip out..

Now it's time run all the parts by the bit ( bead bit ) the push block will lock into the part you just made,, ( male & female thing) once you have the bead on all the parts take it to the table saw and rip all the parts to size...now you have a pair of rails and styles for the frame and they all match..
You may say I don't have wide stock, just it together and the glue joint can be cut out at the rip on the table saw when you get to that point.
And You did it all without a sled.. this works any time you need to use Two bits to make a joint..

The snapshot below is a small frame done without a sled..1/2" thick,1 1/8" wide parts to the frame ,it's a 6" x 6" sq. OD frame..( 4" X 4" PANEL)

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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

The only miter slots that I ever use are the ones in my TS and BS. I see no need or reason to have one or several in a RT. Take a good long look at the OP table and you'll begin to understand the phrase, "keep it simple". IMHO, miter slots are kind of a waste in a router table. They will allow room for error. :sad:


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hello Ken,

i will have to agree with you! i see beautiful pieces made on a router table that has no miter slots on it. but i realize there are people that cant operate without miter slots and will respect their choice. i dont need to depend on them , but lots of people do. i dont want to disrespect them. just as lots of the newcomers to the forum seem to be intoxicated over lifts that they pay a bunch extra for, when they could have bought a router with the lift for less. but they seem to come to the forum after they buy this stuff.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

This was a concept I found hard to understand at first as well. The best teacher is experimentation. Try it with a straight bit and just set the fence so you take a small cut. Now just rotate the fence a little in any direction, keeping the same depth of cut and take another pass. This should show you how the bit is "true" to the fence, as opposed to other tools where the fence is true to the blade.


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## CASparky (Oct 14, 2004)

Thanks Deb!!

Well Put, and I shall use your example to convince a couple 'hobbyists'!

Cheers, Lou


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