# I need help to choose type of wood



## dane5547 (Jul 1, 2009)

Hi all,
I'm making putters at this point out of IPE wood which costs me about $58.00 for an 8 ft by 5.5 by 1.5 inches (5.5 bd ft) which is ~$10.50 I can get 31 putters from every 8 foot board which is ~$1.90 per putter. This is the most cost effective that I've found. Volume prices will go down significantly however, there is a problem. IPE is very hard ~3600 Janka rating as well as a good outside wood; however, the grain is much like mahogany and it chips easy. I'm machining these on a CNC but I have to stop the mill reverse rotation and change tools to accommodate the rotation change. This takes time not to mention the additional cost of mills. 

Since the grain is tight and straight it also breaks easy. (see attachment picture) I happen to think the IPE is a boring wood and it doesn't sand down very smooth for a glassy finish. 

Anyone here happen to know of a non boring wood that will stand up to weather extremes, easy to mill without chipping, hard to break, easy to finish, and have a cost comparable to the IPE (also be as available)? One more thing it needs to be at least as dense as the IPE Ipe, the Best Wood for Decks: Find it in Woodfinder!

Gerry


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Gerry

I would suggest using one of the man made woods,,the one below is 1/4' thick hardboard and comes out nice and it's very strong  and cheap..almost imposable to break..you will see it use on many shelfs and flooring ( hint)  see it at HD in the flooring dept. and in the replacement shelf dept..comes per finish on both sides the norm.. 



=======





dane5547 said:


> Hi all,
> I'm making putters at this point out of IPE wood which costs me about $58.00 for an 8 ft by 5.5 by 1.5 inches (5.5 bd ft) which is ~$10.50 I can get 31 putters from every 8 foot board which is ~$1.90 per putter. This is the most cost effective that I've found. Volume prices will go down significantly however, there is a problem. IPE is very hard ~3600 Janka rating as well as a good outside wood; however, the grain is much like mahogany and it chips easy. I'm machining these on a CNC but I have to stop the mill reverse rotation and change tools to accommodate the rotation change. This takes time not to mention the additional cost of mills.
> 
> Since the grain is tight and straight it also breaks easy. (see attachment picture) I happen to think the IPE is a boring wood and it doesn't sand down very smooth for a glassy finish.
> ...


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi BobJ

i was thinking , when they write the "every trick in the book" book, they are going to need you to tell them if they missed anything. lol


----------



## Woodworkers Source (Apr 9, 2009)

With your criteria I think Ipe is the wood. From a list I have here are the woods with a Janka score greater than 3000:

azobe Lophira aiata 3350
bulletwood	Manilkara bidentata 3190
ipe Tabebula spp., lapacho group	3680
lignumvitae	Guaiacum spp. 4500
macawood	Platymiscium spp. 3150
manbarklak	Eschweilera spp. 3480
marishballi	Lincania spp. 3570
rosewood, Indian	Dalbergia latifolia 3170

I am sure there are others but they will be very difficult to get. *Curupay*(not on this list, but Janka is 3850) is a favorite of mine. Fresh cut the wood is tan with black markings but it will turn a dark red with black.


----------



## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Is price of materials a high priority? My experience with golfers tells me that If I save enough kidney stones and am able to build a club face with them, I'll be turning down customers :sold:. The golf fanatic will buy anything that is different.
In that vein of thinking, I would recommend turning out a few made of Kauri. It's now available, stateside:Ancient Wood. 
If price is a priority, quartersawn Oak might do it. Walnut or Hickory might be good, also. If your tooling can handle it, Ironwood is about the toughest.


----------

