# What type bit



## asrubin (Jan 1, 2008)

I would like to join 3-4 pieces of 1x8 pine to make a wide table top. I do not have a joiner or planner. What type of bit should I use to make a good connection and try not to see the joining lines? I have both table mounted router and plunge router.....Thanks to all...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Alan

I would suggest using the matched T & G bit set or the Tongue & Groove Bit (one bit for both jobs) it will plane the stock for you on the router table..with a zero clearance temp. fence in place..
All you need to do is rip the stock true on the table saw.

MLCS Tongue and Groove Router Router Bits

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asrubin said:


> I would like to join 3-4 pieces of 1x8 pine to make a wide table top. I do not have a joiner or planner. What type of bit should I use to make a good connection and try not to see the joining lines? I have both table mounted router and plunge router.....Thanks to all...


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## gal turner (Mar 3, 2010)

can you joint on your router table set up? I would do that first. Then Bob's bit suggestion would be a good choice, or you could use biscuits, splines, or many other ways to keep the pieces from sliding as you clamp up. Todays glue is stronger than pine.


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

gal turner said:


> can you joint on your router table set up? I would do that first. Then Bob's bit suggestion would be a good choice, or you could use biscuits, splines, or many other ways to keep the pieces from sliding as you clamp up. Todays glue is stronger than pine.


Heck, yesterday's glue was stronger than pine too... 

I'll give you one more suggestion. "Spring Joint".

I haven't thought about how to do this with a router but it is dead simple with handplanes. You need a jointer sized handplane, so this may not help you at all. It may be possible to do this with a router table jointer setup but I just haven't tried it that way.

The idea behind a spring joint is that the majority of the wood movement occurs at the ends of a board where endgrain is exposed. So you plane just the slightest little hollow along the edges to be jointed. Now when the clamps close, the hollow closes in the middle but the resulting force is greater at the ends of the board. The glue being stronger than the wood makes sure the joint stays closed all along its length.

This method does not lend itself to the use of alignment devices but they can be used. A well jointed edge and reasonably flat boards, or at least those with a little extra thickness to be planed off later, work just fine. 

Another neat trick with a spring joint, you need fewer clamps per running foot of joint! More of the clamping force is transferred out away from the clamping point so they can be farther apart. The center most clamp is doing most of the work.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

+1 on gal turners suggestion to joint on the router table.

you should be able to make a jointer fence for the table with some mdf and formica.

The method of joining ,although I agree with BJ3, is not a important as making sure you have a jointed edge on the boards.

This will give you a gap free joint.

James


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

A glue joint bit is another option. A little harder to setup but gives lots of glue surface.


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