# Drawing ovals



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I'm going to provide a link to another forum, but this subject comes up often enough that I figured it would be very handy information. This is a jig you can make, instead of buying one.
Wood Magazine ProductionForums


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Mike

That's a great one 

Ask Bob/Ken to make this one a sticky note, it will save someone about 80.oo dollars..that's a big deal in my book  with a just a little bit more work they can use it to make a jig as well ..

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17282&filter=oval jig
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AxlMyk said:


> I'm going to provide a link to another forum, but this subject comes up often enough that I figured it would be very handy information. This is a jig you can make, instead of buying one.
> Wood Magazine ProductionForums


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Actually the oval drawing jig is under $10 from Woodcraft. You can tell the guy who did the article does not use his router to best advantage. He makes many repetitive cuts with his small dovetail bit, and that is easy enough to mess up on. It would be much simpler to use a 3/4" 14º dovetail bit for a single pass. That in fact was the method described when this jig was offered by a magazine (I think it was The Woodworkers Journal) 5 or 6 years ago.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Mike

I did try and find the drawing jig on the Woodcraft web site(s) and could not find it,, do you have a link to it.. ????

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Mike said:


> Actually the oval drawing jig is under $10 from Woodcraft. You can tell the guy who did the article does not use his router to best advantage. He makes many repetitive cuts with his small dovetail bit, and that is easy enough to mess up on. It would be much simpler to use a 3/4" 14º dovetail bit for a single pass. That in fact was the method described when this jig was offered by a magazine (I think it was The Woodworkers Journal) 5 or 6 years ago.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Buy Oval/Circle Drawing Tool, Oval / Circle Drawing Tool, Drawing Tools -

clearance price of $6.99!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Ralph 

I'm off to get one on order 
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Update, I'm going to rework it, so I use the Colt router on it and cut out 4 1/2 ovals 

DONE 
Order Number: 004088786
FOR 14.OO bucks


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Ralph Barker said:


> Buy Oval/Circle Drawing Tool, Oval / Circle Drawing Tool, Drawing Tools -
> 
> clearance price of $6.99!


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> *Update, I'm going to rework it,*


Where have I heard this before? Oh, wait a sec. It must have been Bj saying it about another do-dad. :sarcastic:


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I have that and it is only worth about 5.00. You can probably put a laminate router on it, but it would be much better making the entire thing over, it is flimsy. I believe mine broke the first day and I had to repair it and that was only using a pencil with it.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I suppose it could also be made with T-track.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Mike

It's funny you would say that,, the 1st. one I made I use the tee track stuff it's didn't work that well.. 

I want the new one for the parts only so I can make one like the Rockler one that I have but for smaller Ovals..(picture frame size)  plus I will get a new pencil  



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AxlMyk said:


> I suppose it could also be made with T-track.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

That little one comes with a laminate trimmer optional piece which I also have so if you can find it you do not have to make it, it cost me 5.00 I think. It is a base for any laminate trimmer. It clamps on to the wood rod with a thumb screw. I never ever tried it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Nick

For the snapshot,, but the jig can't do the small ovals yet, the min.was 8 1/2" ,that the same as the Rockler Oval jig,,but I'm going to fix that on the new one.. .. 
Starting with the jig base plate being small oval in shape 
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nickao65 said:


> That little one comes with a laminate trimmer optional piece which I also have so if you can find it you do not have to make it, it cost me 5.00 I think. It is a base for any laminate trimmer. It clamps on to the wood rod with a thumb screw. I never ever tried it.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

8 1/2" is awfully small for me. I have a jig that I use on my disc sander for the really small ovals like that, no router required. I can go to about a 1" x 3 1/2" oval with it, no need to go smaller than that for me! It's based on a Woodhaven jig that looks like the picture.

Going that small it just felt safer skipping the router entirely. I tended to blow up certain hardwoods going that small with a router, with the disc sander that is not an issue.

I use it for the smaller ovals that are within the larger ovals I make. The oval on the left is about 3 1/2" x 5 1/2". The oval on the right is 24" x 48" and the center oval is about the same 3 1/2" x 5 1/2".


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI NIck ,that dog will hunt

But I want to cut out the center as well for small pictures frames,boxes,etc.

To make the templates like below..
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=PAT--&product=PA081
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=PAT--&product=PA080
http://www.routerworkshop.com/S100.html

907 - Data Cube and Clock Book
http://www.routerworkshop.com/S900.html
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nickao65 said:


> 8 1/2" is awfully small for me. I have a jig that I use on my disc sander for the really small ovals like that, no router required. I can go to about a 1" x 3 1/2" oval with it, no need to go smaller than that for me! It's based on a Woodhaven jig that looks like the picture.
> 
> Going that small it just felt safer skipping the router entirely. I tended to blow up certain hardwoods going that small with a router, with the disc sander that is not an issue.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

About three months ago I watch a video from Bob & Rick (Making an Oval Mirror) and at the end Rick shows a very simple method to make an oval without any jig.

Just divide your area in equal rectangles, make a small circles at the center of each rectangle and then connect the circumference of each circle to form the oval. Very simple and effective.

Nicolas


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

kolias said:


> About three months ago I watch a video from Bob & Rick (Making an Oval Mirror) and at the end Rick shows a very simple method to make an oval without any jig.
> 
> Just divide your area in equal rectangles, make a small circles at the center of each rectangle and then connect the circumference of each circle to form the oval. Very simple and effective.
> 
> Nicolas


I'm waiting to see if Bobj3 can turn that idea into a jig. (made of MDF, of course)


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## Doak (Mar 20, 2009)

*Making small ovals*

Contrary to what may have been suggested in another thread I have never ever purchased a jig for routing ovals (Ellipses) I prefer to call them Ellipses as an oval has suggestions of the shape we ran round when we were at school competing in many sporting activities, and therefore when I was teaching the shape I always referred to the Ellipse rather than the oval. The shape that Bj produced was not an true elliptical shape.

There are a few simple methods of constructing the elliptical shape . (1) draw two circles from the same centre point one representing the major axis and the other the minor axis. The two circles are divided into sections and the more sections used will produce the ellitical shape more accurately. see pic 1 where it has been divided into 12 equal parts.

(2) Construct 2 lines at right angle to each other one representing the major axis and the minor axis locate a point on the major axis by drawing an arc from the end of the minor axis. Insert two nails at these points and wrap a piece of string round with a pencil point located at the minor axis then draw the elliptical shape.

(3) construct a simple jig to rout your own elliptical shape either with dovetail shaped runners or use a tee slot material I suggested in the write-up on a previous posting. With this jig it will be impossible to rout small elliptical shapes therefore prepare a larger shape the rout a smallet shape with the use of the template guides and a straight cutter. Not small enough then repeat the process until you get the shape required. 

This is not done simply with *any* elliptical shape. The original shape must be calculated to use the guides and cutters you are to use. You will require to use some maths as Bj would say to prepare the large circle to begin with.

Tom
(Template Tom)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a update and some more info on Ovals 

I got the drawing fixtures,,just a as side note,they are very slow in shipping,anyway I got it and it's not all that bad in fac it's great little fixture.. 

We all can sit down and draw a oval out on some paper but what a pain to do,,more math than I want to play with just for a oval on some paper, this little fixture can do the same thing in about 10 sec. or less.. 

It was a little bit stiff at 1st but with a little bit of dry lube it was just fine.

This just one of many ways to make a oval template but it's very quick way.,,draw the oval out and stick it on the template stock then just take it to the scroll saw and cut it out  clean up the template a little bit with some sand paper and you have it done..in less than 5 mins. or lesss..

I made one that was the smallest the fixture could do,,it was just the right size for me..

I said. ok less try it out,,I used a off set ring and a brass guide to see how it would work out making a smaller oval and it was just fine, I have off set rings that fit the bigger guides and the smaller PC guides,,just a note about the off set rings,, very easy to make.

Below you will see some snapshots of the fixture and the guides and the oval template.

So the bottom line is keep it in the KISS way..and this little fixture will do that.

I'm almost sure Tom and Harry will say this is not the way to do this job but it's works for me and you too I hope.. 

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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Bob for 5.00 or 6.00 it is okay, for 20.00 regular price plus shipping, I don't think so. I mean two nails and a string and I can get the same thing done.

Post pics if you ever get a router attached to it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Nick

I took it down to parts, it would be a easy job to put a router on it,with just a flat board to take the place of the pencil holder, two small holes for the screws but I said it's not worth the time to do it right now maybe down the road.

Shipping charge,,that sucks they shipped it by Fedx but it took 8 days...must have been a lay over somewhere along the way..that's the last time I will order from them on the Net..I may need to find one in town maybe.

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nickao65 said:


> Bob for 5.00 or 6.00 it is okay, for 20.00 regular price plus shipping, I don't think so. I mean two nails and a string and I can get the same thing done.
> 
> Post pics if you ever get a router attached to it.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Shame on you Bj for suggesting that I would disagree with your method. You have shown great ingenuity and the result speaks for itself. I've said it before and I'm going to say it again, I wish you lived in the same street as me, or better still next door so we could have a gate in the fence so that we could share our days between your shop and mine! Wow, what a time we'd have.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

Lets say will do ( next door thing) you just came out of my shop and you saw how I make a template now lets go into your shop and you show me how you make a template from square one...lets say the oval one,,just for kicks,, I have seen the great boxes you have made but not how you make the base templates..and I do mean from square one not using a oval you have to copy with the router..  from the paper to the template thing.. 

Ping/Pong Harry


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harrysin said:


> Shame on you Bj for suggesting that I would disagree with your method. You have shown great ingenuity and the result speaks for itself. I've said it before and I'm going to say it again, I wish you lived in the same street as me, or better still next door so we could have a gate in the fence so that we could share our days between your shop and mine! Wow, what a time we'd have.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Free shipping on that oval drawer today at woodcraft BobJ3, you just missed it!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just my luck  but it's only money, can't take it with you 


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just more snapshots 

Just a easy way to make a master oval template..

Once you have the master number 1 you can make a master number 2,,
With the two masters you can make just about any small oval item,like a oval picture frame,box,sign,wall plaque,etc.

I like to use a 3/16" spiral carb. router bit,less dust,,,but you can use a plunge OG bit as well and do two jobs at one time..cut it out and put a nice edge on the project all with the same bit.. 

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_solid.html#spiral_up_anchor
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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Just a update and some more info on Ovals
> 
> I got the drawing fixtures,,just a as side note,they are very slow in shipping,anyway I got it and it's not all that bad in fac it's great little fixture..
> 
> ...


But how this jig works? can someone explain?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nicolas

fulcrum ( pivot ) points built in the siding dovetail on the base and the pencil bar,when you turn the bar on the top to the right or the left the pivot point will change, it's base on basic geometry ..so to speak.
The dovetail sides will keep the top bar in the center point at all the times.
But it must have to pivot points to work right... one for the small circle and one for the big circle..almost like a cam in your car..one is always running true and the other one has a bigger circle..(orbit ) 


hope this helps
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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

One thing with ovals. If you want an oval say 18" x 36" and then want to make a frame or border that is an even 4" wide all the way around that oval, you can not use the oval jig and just make a 22" x 40" oval for the outer perimeter of the frame or border. If you do you will find the frame for the oval will only be 4" larger at the 0,90 180 and 270 points. At all other areas of the oval outer frame or border it will be less than 4" wide. I know this from experience and I found that this is inherent to how basic type oval jigs work. I make quite a few ovals with matching borders and frames.

If you can understand this concept you will understand how an oval jig operates and the theory of how it works.
*
Below is info from Woodhaven that helps explain an oval jig in its operation. For more detailed info download the pdf. It explains what the pivots do, what the lenghts of the tracks do and what the distance of the tool from the pivots do. It also explains the concept I tried explaining previously albeit better and with a few pictures. The pdf was written by Woodhaven also.

DIFFERENTIAL*

The differential range is controlled by the length of the
T-Tracks that came with your Oval Jig. You can increase the
differential range (but not the oval size) of your Oval Jig by
getting longer T-Tracks. 

*OVAL SIZE*

The size of the oval is controlled by the distance from
the tool to the pivots. By sliding the tool closer or further from
the pivots (without changing the differential), you can change
the oval size. To set the oval size, loosen the ratchet handles on
both pivots and slide the bar to the desired size. 

*TECHNICAL STUFF*
When cutting a 4" wide oval frame, for example, the frame will
only measure 4" at the 0º, 90º, 180º & 270º points. It will measure
slightly narrower everywhere else. This phenomenon is common to
all oval jigs. Actually the jig is cutting 4" wide everywhere, but that's
measured on the travel line of the Double Track, which is not square
to the edge of the part, except at the points mentioned above. The
greater the differential, the more pronounced this is. See fig. 10.
If you need a consistent width, cut one side of the oval
using the jig. Make a tool to follow the edge of the oval that
also holds a pencil. Draw the opposite side of the oval at the
width needed, using the machined edge as a guide. 

*ROUTING & DRAWING*
When cutting the inside edge of an oval, swing
the router clockwise. When cutting the outside edge
of an oval, swing the router counterclockwise.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

the easy way for big ovals 

Rockler Ellipse/Circle Router Jig - Internet Only Special! - Rockler Woodworking Tools

http://www.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000285AA.pdf
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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

That jig lacks a very good differential selection. With that jig try making an 18" x 36" oval and you will see what I mean. It also does not make really large ovals either. Large to me is maybe 48" x 96".

I do have that jig and I got a good deal on it and it does work pretty well, but I either grab the Woodhaven or the one I made myself with track when I need a large oval.

That Rockler goes on sale for 50% off and for that price it is a really nice deal! I was glad to get it on sale. They also offer a larger black plate.

To me using separate track is much more versatile than the solid black plates with the tracks routed into them if you need a variety of differentials in your ovals or ellipses.
*
Here is a Woodhaven definition of differential and how to get the differential you want by adjusting the jig. Refer to pdf from my previous post for more.*

Ovals are measured by their length and width. *The difference between the length and width is called the "differential".* Using
the same edge of both pivots as a reference, measure the distance from one edge of a pivot to the same edge on the other pivot.
Multiply this distance by 2 to get the differential. For example, if the distance between pivots measures 6", then the differential
between the width and height of the oval will be 12"

Simply, an 18" x 36" oval has an 18" differential. That great of a differential is something really hard to do with one solid plate, much simpler to achieve with track.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, I have to confess that I copied an existing template when I made mine but if I was to start from scratch now, I would go to a craft shop and buy a suitable MDF shape, two examples are shown but there are lots of different ones available. I know this approach doesn't suit everyone, some members like the challenge of designing jigs and templates and it's for such members that Bob & Rick have offered a course.

As far as your project is concerned Bj, I reckon you have done a perfect job without the use of a slide rule, calculator or computer and a large number of members will appreciate your approach.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

All that's needed is to tweak the miner and the major ( A AND B lock knobs )to get it to come out right on, when you make the inside pass 
I like to use a pencil in the jig b/4 I cut the inside one. this will give me a ruler to go by..

but you're right it will not do a 4" x 8' oval ...but most will never run into that..
but it can by just adding a board.. with a slot in it..
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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I do not get the tweaking comment Bob.

No tweaking will get that jig to make an 18" differential. And no tweaking could ever give you a consistent 4" wide border unless you use a band saw or something like that. 

The problem is for the big differential like 18" is the a and b pivots need be so far apart 9" that one will not stay on the center base and will fly off as you move the router around. One reason I prefer the track based oval jigs. I think the Rockler jig falls off at about pivots at 4" apart if I recall and the larger base the pivots 8" apart. I just do not like the most of the oval shapes that the Rockler jig makes.

For a precisely 4" frame around say an oval picture, tweaking is not going to work or is way more trouble than its worth, I know I have done it loads of times.. I can tweak it to work to about a 2" width, after that it comes out like crap and you are sanding and cutting with a band saw anyway.

For me the best way is cut the inside oval. Then draw a line 4" around the oval and cut it out with a band saw to start, sand it up etc.

My comment on size was a little extreme, my point is that it really would not be that great for a kitchen or dining room table. A very common use for the oval jig.


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## Doak (Mar 20, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> We all can sit down and draw a oval out on some paper but what a pain to do,,more math than I want to play with just for a oval on some paper, this little fixture can do the same thing in about 10 sec. or less..
> 
> This just one of many ways to make a oval template but it's very quick way.,,draw the oval out and stick it on the template stock then just take it to the scroll saw and cut it out  clean up the template a little bit with some sand paper and you have it done..in less than 5 mins. or lesss..
> 
> ...



Bj
:agree:This we both agree on. I certainly would not do it the way you have suggested. In the past I may have attempted the method you have posted, but unfortunately it was never accurate enough for what I wanted to do and I can see by the final shape you have produced the imperfections that will occur each time doing it your way.

I have produced many elliptical projects over the years and it was necessary to produce a true elliptical shape from the start *without any inperfections*. Selecting an elliptcal shape from your local craft store which has been produced on a CNC machine would be the way to go subject to you finding one that can be reduced to give the major and minor axis required, and this is not always possible. 

We do have to put ourselves out and put pen to paper if we wish to produce accurate shapes that we require. Making the simple jig posted is the only way to achieve an accurate shape subject to the pencil being replaced with a router. Most Elliptical Cutting Jigs are restricted to a minimum size and are not capable of producing small elliptical shapes, then you do have to reduce them to size using the original shape as you have suggested. Each imperfection is magnified with each reduction in size.

Bj,:help: let us encourage others to produce a true shape where they can achieve a better standard of work and not present an inferior method of producing the elliptical shape.

Tom


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I simply don't understand what this accuracy thing is all about, to my simple mind it's all about aesthetics, if it LOOKS right it IS right. I've made and given as presents a large number of elliptical trinket box's and am not aware of a single recipient checking the ratio of major and minor axis.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

How can something not be a true Ellipse. Unless it is an oval.

An ellipse is a smooth closed curve which is symmetrical about its center. So if the left side from center matches the right side of the center it is an ellipse no matter its shaped curve as long as the radius is continuously changing. If the radius changes continuously it is an ellipse.

If your point is that Bob's radius is not a continuous change than you are correct, its not an ellipse, but may be an oval.

For an oval any point of it belongs to an arc with a constant radius.

I tend to agree with Harry as it matters what the overall object looks like to the eye. Actually, in some cases making a true oval or ellipse does a disservice as it may "look" wrong". Like making a frame for an oval picture. If that oval picture is off and you make the frame a perfect oval the frame can appear crooked.

The ratio of the major and minor axis determines what it looks like and is a big deal. I hate ovals that are to wide in the center, I like closer to a football shape. What the actual ratios are can be irrelevant, unless you want to make a jig and set it up to get the ratio you want. Than it is good to understand ratios, ellipses and ovals so you know how to achieve those ratios and the overall shape you want when making the jig in the first place.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

I agree with you 100 %,,after all it's just some wood  and not a window port in a rocket ship.. 

Some go off the deep end with the accuracy thing , just a note in the last picture I posted it shows a small oval box ,this one was done free hand that's to say I just drew the oval free hand and then cut out the template..so to say it's not big deal.. 

Anytime you make a item you will always have someone say ,,hey that's not the right way do it,,do it this way...to them I say tuff I like it..and that's the only thing that counts..

I think the key is just have fun doing it.. :dance3:

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harrysin said:


> I simply don't understand what this accuracy thing is all about, to my simple mind it's all about aesthetics, if it LOOKS right it IS right. I've made and given as presents a large number of elliptical trinket box's and am not aware of a single recipient checking the ratio of major and minor axis.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Never had anyone tell me a project was not right except a paying client. :nono::nono: 99% of the time they were wrong anyway. I guess I deal with people that are a whole lot nicer because I do not think they would say it looked wrong even if they thought that.

Who is anyone to judge a look. If I make something by design to look a certain way and then someone says it is wrong, no they are wrong, I wanted it to look that way!

I hate people that think certain things have to look a certain way, says who! If everyone followed every little rule everything would look the same anyhow, how boring.

Some insist on the golden ratio and if you do not use it they say it is wrong, bull! I had a course in college and the professors thesis was on that the golden ratio was not by design, but figured out after the fact and than rationalized to be the correct proportions. He did a show based on that on Discovery or something, something like "is the golden ration truly golden" or something to that effect. I wish I could remember his name.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Thank you Gentlemen

Not that I will make an oval any time soon but it's nice to know how to do it


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## Doak (Mar 20, 2009)

harrysin said:


> I simply don't understand what this accuracy thing is all about, to my simple mind it's all about aesthetics, if it LOOKS right it IS right. I've made and given as presents a large number of elliptical trinket box's and am not aware of a single recipient checking the ratio of major and minor axis.


Harry

Firstly if you and I, at the time of constructing the boxes had not prepared the elliptical shapes accurately, you would have been unable to produce the fine boxes that you have presented on the forum. The lids would not fit neatly into the base cut-outs. 

Of course the recipients would not be checking the ratio of the major and minor axis. No doubt to many of them they would not have a clue as to what you were talking about. I am not referring to the ratio of the elliptical shape in a way that it had to be a a certain size. 

Routing the shape you want when using an elliptical cutting jig, it will be necessary to rout a specific major and minor axis if we are to produce the size we wish to achieve finally, in other words you cannot rout any old size if you are looking at producing a box a certain size. The original has to be calculated depending on what guide and cutter you will be using to make the smaller template. Each one of the projects I have submitted required an elliptical shape that was free from any imperfections that are produced with the Scroll/ band saw.

Tom


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## Doak (Mar 20, 2009)

nickao65 said:


> How can something not be a true Ellipse. Unless it is an oval.
> 
> An ellipse is a smooth closed curve which is symmetrical about its center. So if the left side from center matches the right side of the center it is an ellipse no matter its shaped curve as long as the radius is continuously changing. If the radius changes continuously it is an ellipse.
> 
> ...


Nickao

You make good sense with a firm understanding of ellipses and ovals. The point I was making Bj had introduced imperfections to his method of producing the elliptical shape and if that shape was to be used to prepare a smaller elliptical shape then the imperfections would be continued on. I was only stressing if a true elliptical shape is required then using the elliptical cutting jig is the method to use.

Tom


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"I was only stressing if a true elliptical shape is required then using the elliptical cutting jig is the method to use."

The general view, and certainly mine is who cares if a box/picture frame or what have you is a perfect ellipse, so long as it's pleasing to the eye, especially the eye of a recipient, PERCEPTION is what it's all about. Members who are inclined to be pedantic, will agree with your methods, but I'll take a bet that the majority will follow the approach of the likes of Bj and myself.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

It's not big deal ,the template can be way off and the parts will still fit..
The guide will copy what every the template is setup to do..

all that's needed is one template..to make the box and the lid..
but you can make two templates if you want to and do it Tom's way but I don't no why..when one will do the trick..
======


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nick

This is the way I tweak the oval jig to get the project to come out just right, it works for me.. 

I 1st.cut the outside edge almost all the way,then I reset the oval jig to cut the inside part..
Let's say I want it 1 3/4" wide, I reset the oval jig to cut that on the minor setting, swing the router around with the pencil in the jig,,mark it,then drop the router on the jig and make the pass all the way around,the bit will just touch the mark on the major point..and the edges will be 1 3/4" wide all the way around the frame..


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nickao65 said:


> I do not get the tweaking comment Bob.
> 
> No tweaking will get that jig to make an 18" differential. And no tweaking could ever give you a consistent 4" wide border unless you use a band saw or something like that.
> 
> ...


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

We are not on the same page on this Bob so I will just give up after some comments.

All I can say if you are using an oval jig it will not follow a parallel path after you readjust it. It's math. You must be stopping the router at certain intervals and adjusting the reach. But, again 1 3/4" is not quite wide enough to notice much of the change in path as I have stated in my previous posts.

If it works for you I say keep doing it. If you ever do a 6" or 4" border and it is not working for you than maybe you will recall my post someday.

Did you read the Woodhaven pdf ? Because that is the simplest way I can explain it. And what they state is exactly what happens in my shop.

What you are saying is against the examples and math and my experience doing it. I actually thought what you state would work when I started doing ovals, it did not. If you are not using the jig it self for both cuts that is an entirely different thing.

Lastly, the inner oval shape of the frame or border is predetermined 95% of the time for most work, you are not cutting up an oval portrait etc, so the inside oval portion must be cut first and the outside made to match. Your example is working backwards for most work.

Make an 18" x 36" oval and then make a larger 24" x 42" oval. Center the smaller oval dead center of the larger. You will see the distance varies along the gaps between the two ovals(in this case the gap is the frame or border). The gap(frame, etc) will only be a width of 6" at 4 points. *If you use the same jig *to draw or router the shapes this will happen every time. That is my point.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Nick

Nope I did not see the PDF file I guess I should go back and take a peek at it,but most of your post put me to sleep ,sorry..being old will do that bud.

You and Tom do write the same way,,and do the thing to me ,Sorry  
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"Ovals are measured by their length and width. The difference between them is called (go figure!) the “differential”. To help you figure out the oval jig you need, we list the differential and size range of each jig in the chart, but the size range can be changed by cutting the T-slot tracks shorter, or by getting a longer bar. 

Smallest Largest
7" to 23" differential 25" x 32-48" 54-70" x 77"

-With these jigs the router moves and the work is stationary, so they're the best choice for larger ovals.
-Sliding mechanisms are secured in T-slot tracks.
-All adjustments are made with knobs.
-The 3230 has four 12" aluminum axis tracks and a 36" router bar.
-Extra bars (Double Tracks) are available so you can switch bars to increase SIZE capacity (not DIFFERENTIAL capacity) of the Oval Jigs.
-Includes a pencil holder for drawing ovals.
-Includes a NoDrill Plate which has a quick attach feature so your router can be quickly removed from the plate.
-Optional Drill-Style Plate (3200PD-drilling not included) is available if you prefer a semi-permanent router mount.
-Optional Angle-Ease Plate (3200PA) lets you take your Angle-Ease mechanism and mount it on this plate for the ultimate in creative routing. Otherwise, get the Angle-Ease Kit (1424K) which includes the Angle-Ease mechanism, Plate (3200PA) & Height Adjuster (1426).
-Optional Margin Scribe (3205) draws a line parallel to an edge for a more precise margin then an Oval Jig can cut. For example, if you cut a 3" wide frame with any Oval Jig, the frame will only be 3" wide at the four axis's of the jig and slightly narrower everywhere else. This phenomenon happens with all oval jigs. If you need a consistent width, the solution is to rout one side of the part with the Oval Jig, use the Margin Scribe to draw a line parallel to the routed edge, then cut the part to the line.

=========

the optional Margin Scribe draws a line parallel to an edge for a more precise margin then an Oval Jig can cut. For example, if you cut a 3" wide frame with any Oval Jig, the frame will only be 3" wide at the four axis's of the jig and slightly narrower everywhere else. *This phenomenon happens with all oval jigs.* If you need a consistent width, the solution is to rout one side of the part with the Oval Jig, use the Margin Scribe to draw a line parallel to the routed edge, then cut the part to the line. "

============

Oval Jig w/36" bar - 3230

Margin Scribe - 3205
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nickao65 said:


> We are not on the same page on this Bob so I will just give up after some comments.
> 
> All I can say if you are using an oval jig it will not follow a parallel path after you readjust it. It's math. You must be stopping the router at certain intervals and adjusting the reach. But, again 1 3/4" is not quite wide enough to notice much of the change in path as I have stated in my previous posts.
> 
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Doak said:


> Nickao
> 
> You make good sense with a firm understanding of ellipses and ovals. The point I was making Bj had introduced imperfections to his method of producing the elliptical shape and if that shape was to be used to prepare a smaller elliptical shape then the imperfections would be continued on. I was only stressing if a true elliptical shape is required then using the elliptical cutting jig is the method to use.
> 
> Tom


When you use the word "imperfections" do you actually mean "inaccuracies", if so then what you're talking about would start to make sense.


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