# Ski Question



## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

I'm attempting to build a ski fixture. I got some 5/16 rods to fit the edge guide holes of my router. At the 18 inch length the router is not stable at all. My router is ye ol Ryobi RE180PL. Now I noticed Harry's router is a Makita, that I believe is heavier than mine. I am sure he has no flex with his rods..(keep it clean) What diameter rods should I use?...I can go to 3/8 all thread but that would be my limit. What is the average length rods do you guys use?

Thanks,
George II
the other George


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

George,
We have found that the 3/8 acme thread is the stongest type rod to use. Enco has it pretty cheap.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George II

I have 4 of the ski jigs and the bigger the rod the better if you don't want it to sag..I do have 3/8" B7 HT Acme rod on one of them but it's not cheap, not to say anything about the nuts or wing nuts..Harry likes to use solid rod 12mm it's great but many routers can't take on the 12mm / 1/2" rod, but take a look at the snapshot below you can use 3/4" all thread..

You can't bend that stuff, it's like a tank..made for a tank of a router.. and it's cheap from all most any hardware store/HD/Lowe's ..

I will say 5/16" is to small  note ,,,,you can also use some hardwood with dado slots to hold the rod to the plate with some wing screws if you don't want to use the Alum.angle brackets ...

======







George II said:


> I'm attempting to build a ski fixture. I got some 5/16 rods to fit the edge guide holes of my router. At the 18 inch length the router is not stable at all. My router is ye ol Ryobi RE180PL. Now I noticed Harry's router is a Makita, that I believe is heavier than mine. I am sure he has no flex with his rods..(keep it clean) What diameter rods should I use?...I can go to 3/8 all thread but that would be my limit. What is the average length rods do you guys use?
> 
> Thanks,
> George II
> the other George


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Been chatting with Harry some off line about various alloys to get a ridgid support rod for one of these things as I also have plans for one soon. 

I did think that this stuff looks promising. It isn't an allthread but seems pretty affordable at $9 for a 6 ft chunk.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#8938k13/=48xa5v :yes4:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

If you have a GOOD tap and die set your in business ...
but most don't have a good set, most have the China type, you can get some leadaloy steel that cuts nice and clean..
with one of the so so tap and die set,,if you have a mate with a lathe or a machine near by that will work also...Harry and I have gone around and around about threaded rod,,you don't need to move the router up and down the rod.. he norm...

It's nice but not a must have option ..

========




jschaben said:


> Been chatting with Harry some off line about various alloys to get a ridgid support rod for one of these things as I also have plans for one soon.
> 
> I did think that this stuff looks promising. It isn't an allthread but seems pretty affordable at $9 for a 6 ft chunk.
> 
> McMaster-Carr :yes4:


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

When considering the stiffness of ski rods, certainly material choice can be a big issue but as a first consideration, use the largest diameter you can use. Cross-sectional area increases with the *square* of the diameter. Thus, when comparing 5/16" rod with 3/8 (6/16), the area of 6/16 (3/8) to 5/16 is: (6^2)/(5^2) = 1.44; you have almost half-again the cross-sectional area of rod with 3/8 that you do with 5/16. 

I have 13mm holes in my (15#, 3hp)router. I took the base to HD and compared 7/16 all-thread with 1/2" all thread. The 7/16" stuff slid easily, I had to work the 1/2" back and forth a bit to loosen up the guide holes to make it fit. The difference in cross-section though (in 16ths) is (8^2)/(7^2) = 1.3... I went with the 1/2" rods.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi John
> 
> If you have a GOOD tap and die set your in business ...
> but most don't have a good set, most have the China type, you can get some leadaloy steel that cuts nice and clean..
> ...


Hi Bob...
I know moving left/right isn't a necessity or everyone would have done it from day 1. I figure as long as it's still in the planning stage, why not? A lot nicer to have a capability and not need it than not have it and need it. 

I hadn't planned on threading the rod. I was thinking of running it through 1/4" pipe nipples. 1/4" pipe is close enough to 3/8" to hog out with a drill bit, especially if you use brass. Drill and tap the pipe nipple for set screws to lock the rod in place. I think cutting a 6' chunk to length may be an issue but I think one of those round tungsten carbide hacksaw blades would handle it. 

Problem then becomes controlling the vertical position. Got a couple of ideas in that area but haven't got that all worked out yet.::wacko:

Jim - I haven't ruled out 1/2" yet... Like I said, thing is still in the planning stage. I also haven't ruled out using angle iron.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Thanks to all for responding to my question. According to the advice of the collective I shall go with the 3/8 rod. I do have a great tap and die set to cut the threads....Dare I ask what size to thread it?..As far as the rod my choices are rather limited...HD or Lowes what is a acme rod? Also how long should the rod be to be effective?
I love it when a plan comes together. I noticed that Bob mounted his rods on a base the he made to support his router...I'm in no way that advanced enough to make that leap..another day maybe. Again I want to thank everyone for their great input..

The Other George..


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

George II said:


> Thanks to all for responding to my question. According to the advice of the collective I shall go with the 3/8 rod. I do have a great tap and die set to cut the threads....Dare I ask what size to thread it?..As far as the rod my choices are rather limited...HD or Lowes what is a acme rod? Also how long should the rod be to be effective?
> I love it when a plan comes together. I noticed that Bob mounted his rods on a base the he made to support his router...I'm in no way that advanced enough to make that leap..another day maybe. Again I want to thank everyone for their great input..
> 
> The Other George..


Hi George - hehehe,,, never know where one of these threads may lead.... 
Anyway, I would cut the threads at one of the standards. For 3/8 rod it would be 16 threads per inch or 3/8-16. That way you can get matching nuts virtually anywhere. Acme thread is a heavy duty industrial thread like you see in the lead screw on a vice. Flat top threads and such. I'm not sure whether tpi is the same or not. 
Good tap and die set or no, if you are looking at the rod I refered to in my previous post, at the McMasters website, I wouldn't risk it. That stuff is pretty tough. Very likely to play dentist on your dies. The 3/8 rod you get at HD should thread fine. 
Actually, I am planning on patterning mine closely after Bob's. Going with a seperate base makes sense because you can define the size of the rods used and aren't locked into the size provided on the router. Those provided on the router were not sized for rods to support the router, merely to hold an edge guide in place.... Vastly different application. That's not to say they won't work, many people have used them. Just that they are likely less than optimum. 
Good Luck and keep us posted


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George II

Just my 2 cents 

acme rod is the best,,it's flat so to speak..you can move the router back and forth without nailing the threads or wiping out the router base...

Many routers will take on the 3/8" rod easy but some routers can't take on the 3/8" rods so you need a base to mount the router to..but do use 3/8-24 thread type,,the 3/8-24 thread is not cut as deep as the 3/8-16 so you have more mass to the rod plus most routers have wing screws to lock the base to the rod,,,by using the fine thread you will not smash the threads down..it's a real pain to pull the jig down and chase the threads..aging that's why acme rod works the best it's almost like solid rod..take a look at one of your vises and you should see it...and why they use it...
It's very strong and very hard to distort the threads..

You can almost hit it with a hammer and it will be fine the normal...so to say a thumb screw will not nail it and it will act like solid steel rod..


You can buy acme rod off the net at the right price and the nuts but it's hard to find in the local hardware..the norm is 3/8-12 threads..


The rods should be 36" long the norm ,I use 30" ones, I don't know why it just looked right for me to use it on my router table..I just pop off the fence and I'm set to use it..I drop the cam board in the top of the router table so I don't need to clamp it down.. 

=========






George II said:


> Thanks to all for responding to my question. According to the advice of the collective I shall go with the 3/8 rod. I do have a great tap and die set to cut the threads....Dare I ask what size to thread it?..As far as the rod my choices are rather limited...HD or Lowes what is a acme rod? Also how long should the rod be to be effective?
> I love it when a plan comes together. I noticed that Bob mounted his rods on a base the he made to support his router...I'm in no way that advanced enough to make that leap..another day maybe. Again I want to thank everyone for their great input..
> 
> The Other George..


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

A small tip. Use hot dipped nuts on the threaded rod. They are cut oversized and spin on easily.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Here is a update on my ski construction. 
Got the 3/8 rods from Lowes. Ran the die down each end to a 6 inch mark..Here is where I found the rods slightly bent..like they were put in a cutter and pushed down to complete the cut. No big thing they got threaded anyway..took 4 beers to complete.

Cut, shaped and grooved the end pieces. Everything is coming along smoothly..here is where I am wondering about hand placement..I have noticed that Harry bends his hands from a vertical to a horizontal to grasp and control the end pieces. To my way of thinking that would be un-natural. I would probably feel more comfortable with my hands at the vertical. Any thoughts on this? Pro or con would be appreciated. 
I will post photos when it's completed..Also I would appreciated any pointers on how to use this thing..ie; bits, depth and distance between the end plates.
Thanks to all for the help and guidance. 

Best Regards.
George II
The other George


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George II

Here's a way to do it with one beer,chuck the threaded rod in the battery drill and some cutting oil on the rod and let it rip all the way..

==========


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi George II
> 
> Here's a way to do it with one beer,chuck the threaded rod in the battery drill and some cutting oil on the rod and let it rip all the way..
> 
> ==========


I would Bob but am afraid the beer will spoil..


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George

hahahahahahahahaha LOL

I didn't know the beer could spoil ,, I have a 6 pack in the ref.for about a year now...and one or two in the pop machine also about a year old..  ,,,I drink alot of beer  

====



George II said:


> I would Bob but am afraid the beer will spoil..


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

They don't spoil? Damn you learn something new every day....Bob, What are you thoughts on ski handle position?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George

JUst my 2 cents 

The router comes with handles and that's where I put my hands most of the time..

I do use a plunge router on the ski jigs and I'm always plunging it down...or letting it up...I know some like to use the skis but for me it's not the place for my hands ,I want my hand right next to the power switch and the lock down bar for the router...

============



George II said:


> They don't spoil? Damn you learn something new every day....Bob, What are you thoughts on ski handle position?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I agree that holding the router is best and safer. 

IMO, holding onto the ends only becomes advantageous when you want to make very small amounts of travel since, it the router is in the center (18" along) a 36" bar, moving one end by 1" moves the bit by 1/2", albeit in a slight arc. It's like a "low gear" in a truck and help counter any shakiness in your hands.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Fantastic guys..you have answered my question...Router handles it is and not the skis..It is really great getting ones lights turned on..Thanks to all with the help..
Best Regards,
George II
George Cole
The other George


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

You're really going to enjoy those skiis..


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I just have to risk a few friendships here! On a router with small diameter rods, if there is enough meat around the holes, I would open up the holes with a twist drill because as has been stated, the thicker the rods the less chance of sag especially if controlling the assembly by the router, which is not the way that I use the skis. Controlling by the end cheeks gives incredible mechanical advantage with no chance of uneven depth of cut caused by changing pressure on the router. As for the rods, I use bright mild steel and reduce the diameter of the ends to the next lowest thread size so as to leave a shoulder for the fender washers as shown. For those members without a mate with a lathe, the cost of having this done in a jobbing engineering shop would be negligible. The thing to be accurate about is the length of the un-threaded lengths which must be identical so that the end cheeks are parallel.
These shots from a recent photo shoot are skis for my tiny 1/4" Bosch router for very delicate work.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I like your little white knobs 

I don't recall seeing them b/4 I'm not sure if I would every use them but they are sure cute ..

Harry, say what ?
" I would open up the holes "

Most can't be made bigger  they are in place for the fence,once drilled out that's it for the fence the norm...no need to wipe out the router base ,just put in on a support base for the ski jobs..but it's true most don't use the router fence but once it's gone it's gone without making a new fence setup..

But I do recall you made a fence for one of your routers using the same bigger holes.

Maybe I should state why I like to use all thread rod....I like to use the ski jig to put in slots,it's just to hairy on the router table but if I move in the skis to the edges of the cam board they can side along to edges and keep it running true and you can't do that easy if the solid rods a locked into the skis ..it's true you can move it to one side all the way but if you have one end that's free to move over that little..and make some real nice fire wood..

The snapshot below shows what I'm taking about...the safe way and true way to make a slot..


=======



harrysin said:


> I just have to risk a few friendships here! On a router with small diameter rods, if there is enough meat around the holes, I would open up the holes with a twist drill because as has been stated, the thicker the rods the less chance of sag especially if controlling the assembly by the router, which is not the way that I use the skis. Controlling by the end cheeks gives incredible mechanical advantage with no chance of uneven depth of cut caused by changing pressure on the router. As for the rods, I use bright mild steel and reduce the diameter of the ends to the next lowest thread size so as to leave a shoulder for the fender washers as shown. For those members without a mate with a lathe, the cost of having this done in a jobbing engineering shop would be negligible. The thing to be accurate about is the length of the un-threaded lengths which must be identical so that the end cheeks are parallel.
> These shots from a recent photo shoot are skis for my tiny 1/4" Bosch router for very delicate work.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Bob, and Harry,

I'm mounting my Ryobi RE180PL to my skis. I did increase the rod opening out to 3/8 from the standard 5/16. I'm sure the 5/16 is really metric size but 5/16 is close enough.

I reckoned that the fence rods could still be secured with the exisiting hold down screws and so they did..as long as the fence does not shift it's good to go.

Plan "B", if I find that I get to much flex with the 3/8 I will opt for the larger rod..1/2 and use a base plate on the router and thru hole blocks on the plate like Bob did.

As per Harry's' design I am going to add knobs on the end plates in case I want to use them. Thanks Harry. Also I like the idea to reduce the area for the threads one size...

Now I'm off to Lowes for some more bits and pieces and try to find something to put on the bottom of the skis to make em slide better.

I would like to find a visual showing how to use it..I have sussed it out in my head but to make sure I understand would be a plus.

Thanks again all and I will post photos when completed as well as shop...(The Pit, Man Cave)

Best Regards,
George II
George Cole
"The Other George"


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

George II said:


> Now I'm off to Lowes for some more bits and pieces and try to find something to put on the bottom of the skis to make em slide better.
> 
> "The Other George"


Hi George, just an idea. Put a rabbet along the inside edge of the skiis and use a strip of UHMW to overlap about 1/16" on inside and bottom edges.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

John,
Great Idea..Sure beats the hell out of putting Shepard Casters on it..Seriously what about using LDF countersunk screws to attach the UHMW?

Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

UHMW Slick Tape 
UHMW Plastic Sheets and Strips

========


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> UHMW Slick Tape
> UHMW Plastic Sheets and Strips
> 
> ========


Hi guys, with the tape you probably wouldn't need the rabbet. I was thinking in terms of the strip mounted with countersunk screws.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

John,& Bob,
Thanks, as soon as I have my coffee it's off to the beer store and Peachtree for some UHMW tape and strips..can never have enough "stuff"

George


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I have a strong feeling that some members are under the impression that skis are the best way to go for all routing procedures, not so, plunge routing even with 1/2" rods will produce an imperfection because, when plunging the router to it's pre-set stop, after locking then releasing the grip on the router, it will rise slightly, leaving a mark which will have to be dealt with later. This does not of course apply if the routing is to go all the way through. Where skis come into their own is when the cutter approaches from an open edge as shown with levelling the sides of a box and routing a sign.
I reckon that my method shown for routing slots is faster to set up than Bj's method of setting eight nuts and making sure that the end cheeks are parallel. Planing a surface is also ideally suited to skis. Finally a quick method of mounting the router onto the rods.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Harry, Thanks a load...I hope your getting along with your recovery..To me as well as others your a great resource for our hobby, please take great care of yourself.. 

Now a question. Where did you get the letters / fonts for that sign? I can't free hand worth a flip..
I now have another idea for mounting my router to larger rods...Thanks again Harry

Take great care and best regards,
George II
the other George


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

George II said:


> Harry, Thanks a load...I hope your getting along with your recovery..To me as well as others your a great resource for our hobby, please take great care of yourself..
> 
> Now a question. Where did you get the letters / fonts for that sign? I can't free hand worth a flip..
> I now have another idea for mounting my router to larger rods...Thanks again Harry
> ...


George, there are heaps of programs that allow you to select a font style and size and print out as a banner. I think that I used Corel Print House but "Paint" which is part of Windows will probably do the same, in any case I'm sure that more computer literate members will jump in here. Once the sign is printed, lay it accurately on the wood with carbon paper between and draw around all the letters, ending up as shown in this shot taken from the photo shoot of a sign that I made and posted around Dec.07.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

harrysin said:


> George, there are heaps of programs that allow you to select a font style and size and print out as a banner. I think that I used Corel Print House but "Paint" which is part of Windows will probably do the same, in any case I'm sure that more computer literate members will jump in here. Once the sign is printed, lay it accurately on the wood with carbon paper between and draw around all the letters, ending up as shown in this shot taken from the photo shoot of a sign that I made and posted around Dec.07.


Hi Harry, glad your back, always looking forward to your input.:dance3:
I'm not much good a tracing either, always seem to forget a detail then have an issue trying to realign everything to go back and get it. :wacko:
Instead, I use elmers craft spray adhesive and glue the printout right to the stock and rout thru the paper. When I'm finished, the residue cleans up easily with paint thinner/mineral spirits.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Harry & John,

Thanks for the advice. I down loaded paint shop pro this morning and will try to suss it out today. John, the glue idea is great, that will be the route I will go.

Today I will attach the runners to the botom of the skis paint em and try to post a photo as well.

Thanks to all and best regards,
George Cole
George II
The other George


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jschaben said:


> Hi Harry, glad your back, always looking forward to your input.:dance3:
> I'm not much good a tracing either, always seem to forget a detail then have an issue trying to realign everything to go back and get it. :wacko:
> Instead, I use elmers craft spray adhesive and glue the printout right to the stock and rout thru the paper. When I'm finished, the residue cleans up easily with paint thinner/mineral spirits.


That sounds like a great idea John when the letters are routed into the wood, but I would have thought that it would be a little disconcerting when leaving the letters proud and removing the background, which type of sign have you made using this method.


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## paininthe (Jun 22, 2009)

harrysin said:


> Planing a surface is also ideally suited to skis.


Hi,

Could you tell me what sort of cutter you use / would use for planing a surface. I have some 4" x 4" posts I wish to clean up and skis seem the best method. 

tia


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

harrysin said:


> That sounds like a great idea John when the letters are routed into the wood, but I would have thought that it would be a little disconcerting when leaving the letters proud and removing the background, which type of sign have you made using this method.



Hi Harry - hadn't really thought about that, I have never tried any bass relief. I think you are right about it being, at the least, somewhat distracting. 
I likely wouldn't have tried routing that much area thru paper anyway. Purely out of respect for my bits. Paper can be extemely abrasive, even without sand attached. :yes4:


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

paininthe said:


> Hi,
> 
> Could you tell me what sort of cutter you use / would use for planing a surface. I have some 4" x 4" posts I wish to clean up and skis seem the best method.
> 
> tia


A standard straight cutter, the larger the diameter the better. Because the cutter is entering the wood from free space, there is no need for a plunge cutter which has an extra tungsten blade at the bottom.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

harrysin said:


> A standard straight cutter, the larger the diameter the better. Because the cutter is entering the wood from free space, there is no need for a plunge cutter which has an extra tungsten blade at the bottom.


I think one of these would do the trick without breaking the bank:
1 pc 1/2"SH 1-3/4" Diameter Bottom Cleaning Router Bit - eBay (item 130340393228 end time Nov-03-09 17:42:13 PST)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

I have the bit and it's very hairy bit to use on the plunge/hand router not to say most hand routers can't take it on..with out removing the base plate or making a new one to take it on,,

Some of the hand routers can take it on easy because of the BIG hole in the base plate but it's hairy because it removes tons of stock with one pass,,most router mfg.don't recommend using a bit bigger that 1" in the hand router..

I have switch gears about telling people that it can be done and now slip in to my safe mode way of doing things with the router..I have like you have seen so many in the pass weeks get into danger with the router by side stepping the safe way 1st...

=====




jschaben said:


> I think one of these would do the trick without breaking the bank:
> 1 pc 1/2"SH 1-3/4" Diameter Bottom Cleaning Router Bit - eBay (item 130340393228 end time Nov-03-09 17:42:13 PST)


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

jschaben said:


> Hi Harry - hadn't really thought about that, I have never tried any bass relief. I think you are right about it being, at the least, somewhat distracting.
> I likely wouldn't have tried routing that much area thru paper anyway. Purely out of respect for my bits. Paper can be extemely abrasive, even without sand attached. :yes4:


I also glue the pattern directly onto the wood, then I use the 1/8-Inch spiral down cut bit that came with my inlay kit to outline the letters and then I remove the paper before routing out the rest of the relieved background with a larger router bit.

The 1/8 spiral down cut bit leaves nice crisp edges on the raised letters.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi John
> 
> I have the bit and it's very hairy bit to use on the plunge/hand router not to say most hand routers can't take it on..with out removing the base plate or making a new one to take it on,,
> 
> ...


Hi Bob - I agree, I bought the thing to specifically do planing with skiis. The freud's will take it, but I was thinking of using the fixed base and use the microadjust. I normally dislike one trick ponies but I think that is what this is gonna do for me. Cheap enough for a planer bit.


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## paininthe (Jun 22, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> I have the bit and it's very hairy bit to use on the plunge/hand router not to say most hand routers can't take it on..with out removing the base plate or making a new one to take it on,,
> 
> Some of the hand routers can take it on easy because of the BIG hole in the base plate but it's hairy because it removes tons of stock with one pass,,most router mfg.don't recommend using a bit bigger that 1" in the hand router..


Hi,

Even though my skis will be made initially just for this job on the 4x4 i'm a novice and the thought of the periphial speed of a 1"3/4" bit is enough to make me wary.

Shall show my set up when I get it sorted.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

jschaben said:


> Hi Bob - I agree, I bought the thing to specifically do planing with skiis. The freud's will take it, but I was thinking of using the fixed base and use the microadjust. I normally dislike one trick ponies but I think that is what this is gonna do for me. Cheap enough for a planer bit.


John,

+1 on BJ's caution. Your mileage may vary!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Providing that a variable speed router is being used and can accommodate the 1 3/4" cutter and the skis are operated from the end cheeks, there will be no problem when taking moderate depth cuts. I would not, under any circumstances operate the skis from the router when planing, full stop.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

*George's Skis*

Well here are my SKIs' I hope the photos are OK, I have never posted a photo here before, thanks to all for the help and guidance..

George II


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

George II said:


> Well here are my SKIs' I hope the photos are OK, I have never posted a photo here before, thanks to all for the help and guidance..
> 
> George II


Looks good George. The UHMW work ok for you or would wheels be better? I would think wheels would make it a bit skittish. I'm still working on mine, life keeps gettin in the way, that and I haven't got any immediate need for them, soooo.......


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi George,

Those skis look GREAT and the UHMW idea looks like a winner!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George II

Looks GOOD and well done,,I used tape on mind..but I'm a cheap SOB..

======



George II said:


> Well here are my SKIs' I hope the photos are OK, I have never posted a photo here before, thanks to all for the help and guidance..
> 
> George II


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Thanks guys...When I posted about using Shepard casters it was all in jest...However today whilst in the shop doing some practice routing I had contact with the mother ship and realized that when using hearing protectors you can't hear yourself scream when you cut your fingers with the router....have to work on that..

I have a question about the Milescraft inlay template but don't know where to post it...

Thanks again guys.

Best Regards,
George Cole


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi George,

Post your question under Guide bushings and Templates, that will be fine there. I hope your injury was not serious!


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Bob said:


> Hi George,
> 
> Post your question under Guide bushings and Templates, that will be fine there. I hope your injury was not serious!


Thanks, "how about dem Falcons?" I wasn't injured I was just having one of my weird flights of fantasy. I'm a product of the 60's. If it wasn't for my flash backs I would have no memory. I was joking about the hearing protection..
Take care Bob..:dance3:


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

So glad to hear that George. We have had so many injuries lately, I guess I am a little gun shy. Have all the fantasies you want.... just stay safe :dance3:


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

What a wonderful job you've made George, even colour co-ordinated!


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hi George II
> 
> Looks GOOD and well done,,I used tape on mind..but I'm a cheap SOB..
> 
> ======


George, I'm even cheaper than Bj. I used those things you put in the bottom of chair legs. Those white plastic ends that you nail to chair legs to make them scoot on thhe floor or rugs. They worked for the simple job I did.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Yep.. just the *thought* of another injury makes me shudder..


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

harrysin said:


> What a wonderful job you've made George, even colour co-ordinated!


Well Harry you know, one must know how to coordinate and accessorize to be fashionable. Even though I'm colour blind...Harry how about those photos? Not bad for 120 film and a blind guy..

Thanks for the help,

Best Regards,
George Cole


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Not bad for 120 film and a blind guy.."

Are you sure that it wasn't 620 George. With a sense of humour like that, you and I are going to get along like a house on fire! Oh, the shots weren't bad either.


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