# Show us your shop!



## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Got a few photos of your shop? Share them here and we'll build on this thread so we have a common place to post shop photos. 

Your shop doesn't have to be spotless or state of the art or magazine article level, just show us your shop. Please upload the photos to this site rather than a link to some hosting service so they'll remain in this thread with no broken links or hosting errors.

Got a YouTube video of your shop? Post that, as well.

If you are building your shop and documenting it in a thread then by all means keep the build in that thread. When you finish your shop post the photos here as well as in your build thread. 

I'll start if off with a panorama from a couple of years ago -


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

I'll have to try an add pictures as I clean up.

Finally got my work bench back. Was covered for two years..


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

I have had mine for more years than yours.😩 But you have inspired to clean mine. THANK YOU.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> Finally got my work bench back. Was covered for two years..


Mine looked like that once... it's covered again. Ugh!


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## Woodenhearted (11 mo ago)

Perhaps in the near future I will have a workspace set-up. Still planning on what size shed/building I will need to begin this journey.
Just starting out myself. No shop, just a few tools yet with more to come. My first task will be to build a work bench along with gathering some different types of wood stock .
Thank you for posting, these pictures and posts will certainly help me when choosing some power tools in the near future.
I hope to post what I come up with in this thread at some point this summer. I'm looking forward to seeing more shops in this thread.

Rob


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

Woodenhearted said:


> Perhaps in the near future I will have a workspace set-up. Still planning on what size shed/building I will need to begin this journey.
> Just starting out myself. No shop, just a few tools yet with more to come. My first task will be to build a work bench along with gathering some different types of wood stock .
> Thank you for posting, these pictures and posts will certainly help me when choosing some power tools in the near future.
> I hope to post what I come up with in this thread at some point this summer. I'm looking forward to seeing more shops in this thread.
> ...


You don't have a garage or carport?


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

difalkner said:


> Mine looked like that once... it's covered again. Ugh!


My problem is with the added lumber in the shop, I have no place to set up saw horses for additional projects. Once there on the table, there there till I pull it off and push against something else...Poker tables take too much space...


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## Woodenhearted (11 mo ago)

Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> You don't have a garage or carport?


Just a 1 car garage that our Ford Escape lives in. With the outdoor stuff coming in for the winter, lawnmower, snow blower etc. Just not enough room.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

When I started all I had was carport. One time a 10x12 metal shed..


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Color me jealous...

My 'shop' is a 10 x 10 garden shed with no floor or power.....I used to be able to work in the car port but that is now full of 'stuff'.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

There ya go..


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## Woodenhearted (11 mo ago)

Well James,
Color me with the same brush....
You sold me on an 8X10 wood shed build .
I like the way you made benches on wheels and can roll them outside. That will be perfect for my current situation in the backyard this spring.
I looked at several of those wheels just recently on amazon, but ohh so many the choose from. Reviews on some say the wheels get flat spotted so I will stay away from them. I also read, some do not hold the weight they say are suppose to.
Mind if I ask what kind you are using and what diameter wheels those are if you happen to remember?
My plan is to just use some 3/4 plywood on top of 4X4 frame for the floor, but I see myself working outdoors often on the nice days.


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## Oscar36 (Feb 23, 2019)

Do I win the messiest and most disorganized un-insulated garage shop?

It has been cold and I haven't turned on a tool for a bit. I need to pull everything out and actually organize all the tools so they are more efficient. I still have not used the Axiom either. I keep falling back to my Carvewright since it was designed for grandmas to use. I have some turning projects I want to do but my lathe is behind several tools and I have no idea where my chisels are at. Jointer and bandsaw are in there somewhere. lol


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## The Hobbyist (Apr 25, 2015)

No! No! My shop is a shameful pile of assorted materials and a myriad of tools and machines that mock me on a daily basis. I would need to do some major sorting and cleaning before I would ever post interior photos of it. I could use a helper!

Joe


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## Oscar36 (Feb 23, 2019)

lol. That makes me a bit curious on how bad it can be.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi @Woodenhearted 

Here is a link to the build, (way back in 2009, would you believe)









WIP - table saw cabinet


I am in the process of building a rolling cabinet for my bench top table saw (GMC). I though I might post some Work in progress shots as being Christmas it might take a while to complete. :D The design is based on a plan in a Fine Woodworking book " Basic Skills and Techniques" - all from...




www.routerforums.com





If I recall the wheels were 5" swivel casters.


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## The Hobbyist (Apr 25, 2015)

Oscar36 said:


> lol. That makes me a bit curious on how bad it can be.


Picture a Wal-Mart three weeks into a zombie apocalypse.

Joe


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## Arcola60 (Jul 4, 2009)

I am in the process of building my shop. I have posted pictures of the build, many have seen and commented on it. I have been in a habit of cleaning as I go. It is soo easy to let it get out of hand.
It helps me stay focused. If I put things together in their group, it is easier to find what I am looking for. If someone visits, well it just looks nicer! Lol
I have 2- 10X15 storage units that I have been renting to store all of my "STUFF". When I start to bring it over, I want to have a place for everything, It will certainly take a while to get settled in. But when I do I don't want to regroup, or rethink it.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Woodenhearted said:


> Well James,
> Color me with the same brush....
> You sold me on an 8X10 wood shed build .
> I like the way you made benches on wheels and can roll them outside. That will be perfect for my current situation in the backyard this spring.
> ...


Works OK in a temperate climate. But if you can afford it, have a concrete base poured that's double the length so you can have a nice surface to roll your tools out onto. Later, you can add a roof over the "patio" and work in the shade, and out of the rain. You can get decent 4 inch casters from Harbor Freight. An alternative to consider is to use two swivels in front, and two same size fixed casters on the back. This is much more stable and about as easy to move about than four swivels. My router table is intentionally NOT on casters. I wan that thing to be solid. Make sure the swivel casters lock both rolling and the swivel, or your tools will be unstable and harder to use. 

My neighbor started with an 8x10 wooden shed on concrete base, and gradually expanded it by pouring slabs, then building extensions. He enclosed them with fencing so he doesn't need a permit. Our maximum size shed here without a permiit is 10x12. I have a 12 x 24 shed for my shop, built before the limit. It's the size half of a two car garage. Wish I'd had it set on a concrete slab instead of crushed rock. It rides on three long 2 x 6 beams and let the cold in through the one inch ply floor. I finally installed a "skirt" around it to keep the wind out, and it is much more comfortable now.

Both my shop and small office sheds are fully insulated and wired. My wife surprised me by hiring an electrician who ran a 60 amp sub panel out to the shop. Much easier than dragging a heavy extension cord out there. And no permit required. There are two breakers, for each circuit. In the box on the house, and one for each 20 amp circuit in the sub panel. I used flexible conduit with 10 gauge cables strung through them, to go from the box to the shed. Later, it was simple to connect it all up to the little office shed. Whatever my wife paid the electrician, it was worth it. Probably took him 4 hours to dig the trench and install the thing.

.I have my wood prep tools (Jointer, planer, 14 inch Laguna band saw and dust collector in my insulated garage. Ran out of space in the shop. I keep the track saw there too, along with a 4x8 foam slab for breaking down sheet goods.

Works for me. I did all this during my highest earning years, so it's all paid for.


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

It took me a year of late nights and weekends to build my retirement shop, finished it in 2014. The building is 70x 17, the heated part of the shop is 30x17. The wood rack is 13x8. My wife insisted that she be able to park her car inside so the remainder is a 2 car garage and store room.


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## oldhudson49 (Feb 6, 2017)

I've been woodworking since the mid 70's. I live just outside St. Paul, MN. The shop in on the lower level of a split level house in what was supposed to be a bedroom. The main shop is 186 sq. ft. But I got another 162 sq ft., in another bedroom when my last child moved out. The pics here are all of the 'main' shop. The other space is storage, finishing, and staging. Not really anything to see. I don't have a permanent router table set up, because of the limited floor space. I'm one of those who mounts his table in a B&D Workmate when needed. Otherwise its wall mounted. Another item that's a bit unusual is I made a flip top work station for the chop saw and planner. That's a thinner and younger me in the last pic. Thanks for looking.


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

Congrats, very good organized shop. I like it. I also made a flip top work station. 😎


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## GregLittleWoodworks (Dec 9, 2014)

It sure did seem sooo big when it was empty... but now


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

oldhudson49 said:


> I've been woodworking since the mid 70's. I live just outside St. Paul, MN. The shop in on the lower level of a split level house in what was supposed to be a bedroom. The main shop is 186 sq. ft. But I got another 162 sq ft., in another bedroom when my last child moved out. The pics here are all of the 'main' shop. The other space is storage, finishing, and staging. Not really anything to see. I don't have a permanent router table set up, because of the limited floor space. I'm one of those who mounts his table in a B&D Workmate when needed. Otherwise its wall mounted. Another item that's a bit unusual is I made a flip top work station for the chop saw and planner. That's a thinner and younger me in the last pic. Thanks for looking.


IT may be on a Workmate but that is a really nice router table!


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> I'll have to try an add pictures as I clean up.
> 
> Finally got my work bench back. Was covered for two years..
> View attachment 401031


Yours looks a lot like mine, except your bench is clean. I see you have a 24" Omnijig. I'm not sure what's the deal, but the pins cut on mine won't line up with tails cut on my Incra. It works fine if you cut everything on it, but not if you try to use it in combination with anything else.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

GregLittleWoodworks said:


> View attachment 401117
> 
> It sure did seem sooo big when it was empty... but now





oldhudson49 said:


> I've been woodworking since the mid 70's. I live just outside St. Paul, MN. The shop in on the lower level of a split level house in what was supposed to be a bedroom. The main shop is 186 sq. ft. But I got another 162 sq ft., in another bedroom when my last child moved out. The pics here are all of the 'main' shop. The other space is storage, finishing, and staging. Not really anything to see. I don't have a permanent router table set up, because of the limited floor space. I'm one of those who mounts his table in a B&D Workmate when needed. Otherwise its wall mounted. Another item that's a bit unusual is I made a flip top work station for the chop saw and planner. That's a thinner and younger me in the last pic. Thanks for looking.


Mine wasn't much larger before I added on. Two things I'll never have enough of are square footage and clamps.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

Yours is set up a lot like mine, only not as big. T/S and bench running length down the middle. Jointer, planer, B/S, slot mortiser, router table, dovetail jig, moulder & sander are on casters. Drill presses, chop saw, lathe, and scroller are either free standing or on a wall bench. Had to add a lean-to for the dust collector, air compressor and sharpening station. I'm getting there! After 30 yrs.


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## GregLittleWoodworks (Dec 9, 2014)

I just got a New paint job on my workshop after 15 years...


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Nice looking shop, Greg...


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## Ola C (Feb 20, 2014)

This is my shop

In my opinion one of the better 20 square meters shops out there, at least for the things I'm building.

Took a decision a few years back to give up flexible layout and machines on castors. Now everything except the bandsaw has a fixed location and I turn down projects longer than 2.2m. Best decision I have done, I work much more fluid now and don't have to spend energy thinking about how to arrange things for a certain project. I put one router in the assembly table a few years back and threw out the seperate router table, also a decision I never regreted.

Got a new (old) metal lathe since videos were done so I post a seperate pic of that, after restoration. Still no motor in that pic though.


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

This is my garage. I had two cars but I sold one of them to make some additional space for my disordered workshop. My wife sometimes claims about the cluttered because this is our house's main facade. 
I am not proud of this but I spend a lot of time here. I used to make some clean at beginning of new each year but the final result was always the same.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Is that a shop-built CNC in the fifth photo?


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

difalkner said:


> Is that a shop-built CNC in the fifth photo?


Is a shop-built machine but not a CNC. IT is a manually operated machine using 16mm linear bearings.
I used it as a milling machine for my projects since I do not have a planer.


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## imaginationuninc (7 mo ago)

My current shop is a 30'x60'. Two sections are dedicated to bays for rigs, so, obviously, one is full of lumber and waiting projects (had to promise to leave a bay for the car). 

Met my, then, future wife and, after she saw how many tools I have, she questioned if they'd fit in the little shop of the house she was, then, in. She told me she had another house, up the street, with that 30x60 shop. I told her I'm marry her for it (the shop)  and we've been together ever since, going on eleven years.


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## imaginationuninc (7 mo ago)

That, to me, is art.




Ola C said:


> This is my shop
> 
> In my opinion one of the better 20 square meters shops out there, at least for the things I'm building.
> 
> ...


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## imaginationuninc (7 mo ago)

Looks like the kind of place that, when not producing sawdust, is where friends come to kick up their feet and enjoy the end of the day.



oldhudson49 said:


> I've been woodworking since the mid 70's. I live just outside St. Paul, MN. The shop in on the lower level of a split level house in what was supposed to be a bedroom. The main shop is 186 sq. ft. But I got another 162 sq ft., in another bedroom when my last child moved out. The pics here are all of the 'main' shop. The other space is storage, finishing, and staging. Not really anything to see. I don't have a permanent router table set up, because of the limited floor space. I'm one of those who mounts his table in a B&D Workmate when needed. Otherwise its wall mounted. Another item that's a bit unusual is I made a flip top work station for the chop saw and planner. That's a thinner and younger me in the last pic. Thanks for looking.


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

Just joined this site. 
Built and moved into the still unfinished 54x42 shop this year. The shop is a work in progress and a long way from finished.
Since this is a Router forum:
Two main router tables in shop are both shop built. One has Incra fence and sliding miter with Jessem lift. The other has the New Wave Shark RS 1000 Pro electric lift and fence system. Both are running Bosch 1617 routers. Neither table is completed but are able to work at present (things get updated between projects in the shop). Dust control, power and compressed air run in two 18'x1' utility trenches under the work tables in center of shop. Nothing to trip over or hanging down (at least once everything is connected). The table the New Wave is sitting on is 4'x8' and also serves as an extended outfeed table for one of the table saws and or an assembly table as needed. I will be adding black melamine sides to the table with storage drawers for bits and such. 

Just started working with the New Wave this week. And that my friends is why I am here.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

Welcome to the forum, and very nice equipment! I've come along a similar path in shop progress. Where I live in S. LA, humidity and summer heat are two battles I fight every year, not to mention floods and hurricanes. It's a challenge to let sunshine in during the winter and keep heat out during the summer. I have the roof and wall fully insulated, and double insulated windows everywhere sunlight can come in. The rest of the wall space is for benches, cabinets and pegboard. I've put the radial saw, chopsaw, and drill press together at a common work height with the drill press head raised and lowered by a shop built electric winch. All my other stationary tools are on casters, and I pull them out from the wall while leaving the dust hose, power cord, and D/C control cable connected. The 5" D/C trunk line is run outside under the eave to the unit at one end of the shop in a separate mechanical room with the air compressor and wood heater, which recirculates heat via a wall mounted fan and return air filter. Each tool is wired to its own blast gate and has a fully automatic start-up and shut down protocol that is 24V over pneumatic controlled. Inline flow switches and 90dB alarms at each tool and a laser dust bin detector allow a forgetful mind to work dust clog worry and pocket remote control free. 
You probably think I'm bragging, but since you're just getting started, I thought I'd throw you a bone to chew on. My mother always told me that experience is the best teacher, but she never told me other's is better because you don't waste the time you'll never get back.


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

I have already started the EXACT same type of system for our dust control. Since I already have compressed air running to all tables and along the walls it is relatively easy to use air cylinders to operate blast gates! Cat 6 control wiring is run thru out the shop as well.
There are two separate dust collectors in the corner with the air compressor that will be enclosed in their own room eventually. There is an option to vent outside or thru filters inside. Larger chips are separated via cyclone into 55-gallon drums with roll around carts. Plan to add level indicators to the drums. 

The system is NOT completed yet but a little gets done as time allows. I did figure out a way to attach air cylinders directly to the blast gates which makes for a compact and clean setup (can't find the pics sorry).

The pictures show OEM bag on the one system. I now have a pleated filter for it. The other system is shown venting outside since the bag ring has been lost. Eventually it will also have a cyclone upstream and pleated cartridge like the the other system.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

I guess great minds think alike! I figured out after a shop dust collector that a clogged system is one of the worst work stoppers in a shop, and is usually caused by a full bin, clogged components, loss of air, or getting in a hurry and forgetting to open or close a gate all the way. A misplaced or dead remote control doesn't help, either. I solved the gate problems by installing microswitches to not turn on the D/C motor until air fully opens the gate and not turn it off until the gate is fully closed. That way, any gate failure will sound the alarm and alert me because the 24V air solenoid is controlled by either a relay or extra contact on the tool switch, and indirectly controls the power to everything upon start-up, but power isn't disconnected until the gate is full closed after the tool is turned off. Using flow controls on the solenoids allows a delay in starting the D/C upon start-up to prevent breaker trip and allows line clearing upon shutdown. I've had the system in service for over six months trouble-free except lubrication on the gates getting sticky in cold weather. It's the nicest improvement I've ever made to my shop, up there with double knee replacements to my body.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum.


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

Alphonse53 said:


> I guess great minds think alike! I figured out after a shop dust collector that a clogged system is one of the worst work stoppers in a shop, and is usually caused by a full bin, clogged components, loss of air, or getting in a hurry and forgetting to open or close a gate all the way. A misplaced or dead remote control doesn't help, either. I solved the gate problems by installing microswitches to not turn on the D/C motor until air fully opens the gate and not turn it off until the gate is fully closed. That way, any gate failure will sound the alarm and alert me because the 24V air solenoid is controlled by either a relay or extra contact on the tool switch, and indirectly controls the power to everything upon start-up, but power isn't disconnected until the gate is full closed after the tool is turned off. Using flow controls on the solenoids allows a delay in starting the D/C upon start-up to prevent breaker trip and allows line clearing upon shutdown. I've had the system in service for over six months trouble-free except lubrication on the gates getting sticky in cold weather. It's the nicest improvement I've ever made to my shop, up there with double knee replacements to my body.


Plan on adding a circuit board to give us the same sort of delay. We have a LOT of machines and two people working in the shop so it is almost essential to have an automated system. We actually looked at IVac and GRIT systems but the cost of gates and the fact that the gates are rather wimpy in operation turned us off. 

I purchased some clear tubing to incorporate into the system so we can verify good flow and will probably add vacuum gauges as well. One of the big advantages to the utility trenches is the ability to access the part of the system that is under the floor as needed for maintenance and modification. Granted the pipe that runs under the slab between the trenches and the corner where the DC is located are not accessible, but it is a straight run and could be cleared with proper tools (think chimney sweep except horizontal). 

The other system runs in the attic space and drops down as needed along the outside walls so relatively easy access there. 

Electrical isn't an issue as we have 200amp dedicated power feed and multiple subpanels in the shop. The outfeed/assembly/workbenches over the trenches all have their own subpanels (so they are easier to move). On the outside walls, 110v is every 4' and 220v is every 10' plus anywhere we already have machines. Air supply is also dispersed throughout the shop. 

I took a LOT of time researching shop design before drawing up the plans. Workflow of shop is aimed at making movement of heavy stock and projects relatively easy. The main isles are all at least 4' wide to allow large, wheeled carts to move with ease. The ceiling is 10' to accommodate turning panels on edge if needed. We can back our trucks or enclosed trailers into the shop and unload sheet stock into an 80-sheet rack. Next project on our list is to build a panel saw that will roll back and forth along the sheet rack (already have linear track and bearing blocks sitting in the shop for that build). About the only thing we don't have that I wish we did is a ceiling track system with a small winch. Unfortunately, I don't trust the roof trusses to carry that load so won't be doing that. Will have to settle for a tilting rolling cart for that I suppose.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

Looks like you're on the right track! The main thing is you're starting out with plenty of space (hope you have plenty of clamps!). The only thing that I'm concerned about, and it may not you because of where you're located, is the possibility of moisture condensing in the pocket of the cooler section of the D/C system, causing dust to accumulate. With clear sections under the floor, at least you can see what's going on. I have a Harbor Freight collector with the impeller upgrade, Super Dust Deputy, and 55 gal. barrel arranged a little differently to minimize flex hose and bends, although I didn't have enough wall height to allow a straight inlet to the cyclone. I'll try to post a picture.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)




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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

We are insulating the walls as we build out and will do same with ceiling. Once insulated we will be installing mini splits which should help with humidity levels. I don't see it as a major problem for our location. At least not year-round like you would see on the gulf coast. FYI: retired 40-year oilfield veteran here. I spent 14 years living on the Gulf Coast, so I know of what you speak. We have been careful to make sure that the system is easy to clean out if needed. Even to the point of using sealant on some joints instead of glue so that the joints can be taken apart without cutting the pipe. And some sections have clean out plugs. FYI: One member on another forum came up with the idea to use a Ryobi roto rooter to do DC cleanouts! 

The layout of the dust collectors and cyclones is temporary and will be improved once the utility room is built out. We are also building a paint room that will have independent ventilation.


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

Your system looks similar to our two. Except we will have pleated canister filters instead of bags and an option to vent directly outside of the building if we want to. Basically, our idea is to vent outside when NOT heating or cooling the shop. When the Mini Splits are being used the expensive air will recirculate back into the shop thru the canister filters. 

Similar to your setup we have hangers to hold the lid off of the barrel when emptying. Eventually our blowers will be mounted on the wall like yours but not directly on top of the cyclones. I have heard that direct mounting can degrade performance of the cyclones due to turbulence?? A section of straight pipe between the blower and cyclone is recommended. I personally haven't tested that theory, but others have.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

mtlakejim said:


> Your system looks similar to our two. Except we will have pleated canister filters instead of bags and an option to vent directly outside of the building if we want to. Basically, our idea is to vent outside when NOT heating or cooling the shop. When the Mini Splits are being used the expensive air will recirculate back into the shop thru the canister filters.
> 
> Similar to your setup we have hangers to hold the lid off of the barrel when emptying. Eventually our blowers will be mounted on the wall like yours but not directly on top of the cyclones. I have heard that direct mounting can degrade performance of the cyclones due to turbulence?? A section of straight pipe between the blower and cyclone is recommended. I personally haven't tested that theory, but others have.


The only issue I've had with the cyclone not separating like it should is when the chips in the bin start getting close to full and the turbulence kicks in and sends them over to the lower bag below the filter bag. I am beginning to notice fine dust collecting on clean machine surfaces that have sat for a while. I have an overhead air micro filter, but the problem with it is having to clean it so often. I wouldn't recommend one if a dust collection system is in the future. For the same money, a canister traps those fine particles before they get into the shop air. A Wynn is next on the list.


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## imaginationuninc (7 mo ago)

Nice shop. Disgustingly clean  and well laid out.

I have a bunch of toys. Things like that Workmate are still among the prized tools. I think I owned five over time. I get one, the lose it in a move or whatever. The next time I see one in a garage sale, I jump on it. I don't use it every day, or even once a month, but when I need it, I need it bad.




oldhudson49 said:


> I've been woodworking since the mid 70's. I live just outside St. Paul, MN. The shop in on the lower level of a split level house in what was supposed to be a bedroom. The main shop is 186 sq. ft. But I got another 162 sq ft., in another bedroom when my last child moved out. The pics here are all of the 'main' shop. The other space is storage, finishing, and staging. Not really anything to see. I don't have a permanent router table set up, because of the limited floor space. I'm one of those who mounts his table in a B&D Workmate when needed. Otherwise its wall mounted. Another item that's a bit unusual is I made a flip top work station for the chop saw and planner. That's a thinner and younger me in the last pic. Thanks for looking.


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

Alphonse53 said:


> The only issue I've had with the cyclone not separating like it should is when the chips in the bin start getting close to full and the turbulence kicks in and sends them over to the lower bag below the filter bag. I am beginning to notice fine dust collecting on clean machine surfaces that have sat for a while. I have an overhead air micro filter, but the problem with it is having to clean it so often. I wouldn't recommend one if a dust collection system is in the future. For the same money, a canister traps those fine particles before they get into the shop air. A Wynn is next on the list.


Well as I mentioned, I haven't tested the theory. I simply mounted mine to the lid as it was easier to do. And like you, i have been extremely pleased with how well the cyclones work! We also had the fine dust settling on clean surfaces that clued us in that the cloth bags are not very good at stopping the fine stuff that floats around for a while. I hear that is the worst stuff for your lungs and so the investment in the pleated cartridge filters. 

What brand of barrel level indicator did you go with?


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

mtlakejim said:


> Well as I mentioned, I haven't tested the theory. I simply mounted mine to the lid as it was easier to do. And like you, i have been extremely pleased with how well the cyclones work! We also had the fine dust settling on clean surfaces that clued us in that the cloth bags are not very good at stopping the fine stuff that floats around for a while. I hear that is the worst stuff for your lungs and so the investment in the pleated cartridge filters.
> 
> What brand of barrel level indicator did you go with?


1pcs New QS18VN6D Banner Engineering Corp Photoelectric Sensor This is the link I bought from on eBay. They're manufactured in China for Banner and shipped direct. Mine was about $25. A couple pointers: 1) Be careful how you hook it up. They're very sensitive and wire like a photo cell. You'll get instructions and you'll need L.V. control with an external relay. My system is 24VDC. Consult the listing for more details. 2) The metal duct outside my shop got struck by lightning about a month after I installed it. Fried my power supply, all the diodes on my blast gates, several components in the control box, and the bin sensor. From now on, my system gets manually plugged in when I start working. That includes the 24V air solenoid. Hope that helps. Rev. 1: This link is one for a lower price: 1PC NEW BANNER QS18VN6D


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

Alphonse53 said:


> 1pcs New QS18VN6D Banner Engineering Corp Photoelectric Sensor This is the link I bought from on eBay. They're manufactured in China for Banner and shipped direct. Mine was about $25. A couple pointers: 1) Be careful how you hook it up. They're very sensitive and wire like a photo cell. You'll get instructions and you'll need L.V. control with an external relay. My system is 24VDC. Consult the listing for more details. 2) The metal duct outside my shop got struck by lightning about a month after I installed it. Fried my power supply, all the diodes on my blast gates, several components in the control box, and the bin sensor. From now on, my system gets manually plugged in when I start working. That includes the 24V air solenoid. Hope that helps.


Yep, voltage spikes can really mess with electronics. And that is one thing we haven't completely addressed yet. But it is sort of like the blast gates (might be cheap to control one but a dozen is another thing). We have two CNCs, multiple computers and now the New Wave to protect before we even think about the dust control. And then there is the Ham Radio gear that will be going in before long (plus a tall antenna/lighting attractor). Our shop is metal skinned, but wood framed. I'm not sure if that helps, hurts or even matters when it comes to a lightning strike.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

Looks like a grounding specialist might be needed. Good luck at any rate!


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## imaginationuninc (7 mo ago)

Dead monitors may offer plastic you can use to install a view port. In stalled one on my large drum and though I use clear plastic and a wire cage to hold them in place, I can monitor the debris level very well.

I just cut a piece the size I want, lay it inside, then wave my heat gun over it until it drops and forms to the inside of the drum. I let it cool for a moment, then silicone it in place on the inside.



Alphonse53 said:


> ........PICTURE OF CYCLONE AND METAL DRUM WAS HERE...........


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

imaginationuninc said:


> Dead monitors may offer plastic you can use to install a view port. In stalled one on my large drum and though I use clear plastic and a wire cage to hold them in place, I can monitor the debris level very well.
> 
> I just cut a piece the size I want, lay it inside, then wave my heat gun over it until it drops and forms to the inside of the drum. I let it cool for a moment, then silicone it in place on the inside.


That is an option, but in my case the drums will be inside a dedicated utility room and I like the idea of lights I can mount so they are visible in the shop. Cost isn't bad on the electronic versions. 

However, there are some other applications where bending plex with a heat gun would be a useful tip for sure!


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

Blast gate with air cylinder mounted.











Utility Trench


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

imaginationuninc said:


> Dead monitors may offer plastic you can use to install a view port. In stalled one on my large drum and though I use clear plastic and a wire cage to hold them in place, I can monitor the debris level very well.
> 
> I just cut a piece the size I want, lay it inside, then wave my heat gun over it until it drops and forms to the inside of the drum. I let it cool for a moment, then silicone it in place on the inside.


I like your rubber stretchies over the edges of your drum. That would work a lot better than fighting the ring I currently have. I've seen them on hood cowls but I don't know what they're called or where to find them. I have figured out that small magnets work to hold the bag liner to the inside of the drum so the rubber gasket will seal on the lip of the drum. I'd like something better in that dept., too.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

mtlakejim said:


> Blast gate with air cylinder mounted.
> 
> 
> View attachment 403931
> ...


I wish I had a trench for all my utilities, but my shop came with the house and was built as a backyard beauty shop. The only usable things it had were a wraparound bench on three walls and electrical outlets every four feet, although they were reverse wired. I didn't have much choice with my D/C trunk line since my ceiling is only 8 feet, but it worked out better since my blast gates ended up flush mounted to one wall. I'll go take a picture.


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

Alphonse53 said:


> I like your rubber stretchies over the edges of your drum. That would work a lot better than fighting the ring I currently have. I've seen them on hood cowls but I don't know what they're called or where to find them. I have figured out that small magnets work to hold the bag liner to the inside of the drum so the rubber gasket will seal on the lip of the drum. I'd like something better in that dept., too.


Alphonse,
You need to find barrels with the cam lock style rings. I get it that those bolt type rings are a pain. The cams are quick and easy. Also make sure you get lids with built in seals. ZERO air leaks with mine! I only paid like $20 for my barrels from a guy who sells that sort of stuff near here. They were food quality (had something like juice mix I think) so no worries about bad chemicals either. 

I don't use liners in the drums as I have carts and can roll them out to the tractor. I have 20 acres to spread the sawdust out over to decompose. But with the lids I have I suspect the liners would stay in place on the drum lip and all you would need is a short piece of 2x4 in the bottom to keep it from sucking up inside.


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

Alphonse53 said:


> I wish I had a trench for all my utilities, but my shop came with the house and was built as a backyard beauty shop. The only usable things it had were a wraparound bench on three walls and electrical outlets every four feet, although they were reverse wired. I didn't have much choice with my D/C trunk line since my ceiling is only 8 feet, but it worked out better since my blast gates ended up flush mounted to one wall. I'll go take a picture.


There have been times in my life with no shop at all. I spent last two years of my career in New Mexico with just a tiny 8x10 shed for tools and storage. 

In my old shop here at my retirement home, I got tired of tripping over cords and dust collection and having to move half the stuff in the building to get to that one sheet of plywood and then having to move the other half to get it onto a worktable. When it came time to finally build a dedicated shop, I said NO MORE!! I spent a LOT of time researching and designing the shop as mentioned. It has decidedly been a labor of love to get it setup just right to suit our needs. And it is still a work in progress. 

I really can't take credit for coming up with utility trenches though. I saw someone else had incorporated them into their shop. And I had to convivence my partner in the shop that it was the right thing to do. Needless to say, it was the smartest thing we did on the project!! It allows for a LOT of flexibility in layout and is way easier to work with. And that was the one big piece of advice I gleamed from several articles on the subject "build with FLEXIBILITY in mind"!

I make sure to point it out often as I know there are lots of folks out there that like me will eventually be building a dedicated shop from the ground up. Granted not everyone can build to the level that we did but for those who can I offer these suggestions (and I didn't invent any of these):

Build twice the size you THINK you need! I thought our 54'x42' shop was massive until we started putting the machines in and builiding tables. It got small fast!!
Concrete floors! You can always put rubber mats down but heavy machines don't like wood floors and level machines and work tables are a big plus! Things just roll better on concrete! Related: Good Shoes! 
More room in the isles than you think. You gotta get the sheet goods and projects between benches ya know!
Headroom is important too (at least 10' ceilings). 
Utility trenches in the middle if your shop is deep enough to have machines along the centerline.
Think about your workflow and how materials are brought in and taken out of your shop!
Lots of plug ins. LOTS AND LOTS, BUNCHES EVEN! And both 110v and 220v
Run compressed air lines with outlets at several locations along the walls
Insulation YES!
Mini Splits are your friend south of the Mason Dixon line.
Lots of lighting, LOTS AND LOTS, BUNCHES EVEN!

Most importantly, RESEARCH and research some more, then plan to be as flexible as possible!


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## imaginationuninc (7 mo ago)

They're replacements for truck and jeep hoods. Just ask an auto parts store for hood hold downs, or do a search for them on line. They work well for me for the collection can AND for my freezer (idiot friend failed to shut the freezer door twice, so installed these and insist they be used.




Alphonse53 said:


> I like your rubber stretchies over the edges of your drum. That would work a lot better than fighting the ring I currently have. I've seen them on hood cowls but I don't know what they're called or where to find them. I have figured out that small magnets work to hold the bag liner to the inside of the drum so the rubber gasket will seal on the lip of the drum. I'd like something better in that dept., too.


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## imaginationuninc (7 mo ago)

A 2x on the bottom, probably, would not stop the bag from pulling up. I had some fencing I bought to make tomato cages, because anything sold commercially would be too small. I made another cage and it fits down inside the bag, holding it in place.

Also, for reference, I have both the snap ring barrels and the one in my photo. Neither works better or quicker than the other, aside the fact you do have to align the catches and the rubber pull downs, but which is no issue.




mtlakejim said:


> But with the lids I have I suspect the liners would stay in place on the drum lip and all you would need is a short piece of 2x4 in the bottom to keep it from sucking up inside.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

mtlakejim said:


> There have been times in my life with no shop at all. I spent last two years of my career in New Mexico with just a tiny 8x10 shed for tools and storage.
> 
> In my old shop here at my retirement home, I got tired of tripping over cords and dust collection and having to move half the stuff in the building to get to that one sheet of plywood and then having to move the other half to get it onto a worktable. When it came time to finally build a dedicated shop, I said NO MORE!! I spent a LOT of time researching and designing the shop as mentioned. It has decidedly been a labor of love to get it setup just right to suit our needs. And it is still a work in progress.
> 
> ...


That's some great advice on ground up planning! The biggest problem I've found with overhead anything is it gets in the way of lumber and sheet movement, especially swapping ends for planing/shaping. That's why I had to opt for an outside D/C duct with through the wall blast gates. Although my machines are on casters and D/C is against the walls, I'm restricted to that one spot for each one and have to roll or swing the tool out and back in every time I use it. You're spot on with building twice as large as you think you'll need. Two things a woodworker never has enough of is floor space and clamps! Unfortunately, I live in an urban area with zoning restrictions and all that commune stuff.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

imaginationuninc said:


> They're replacements for truck and jeep hoods. Just ask an auto parts store for hood hold downs, or do a search for them on line. They work well for me for the collection can AND for my freezer (idiot friend failed to shut the freezer door twice, so installed these and insist they be used.


Thanks! Now that you mention it, I see them on jeep hoods all the time, but I thought the brackets were factory welded.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

imaginationuninc said:


> A 2x on the bottom, probably, would not stop the bag from pulling up. I had some fencing I bought to make tomato cages, because anything sold commercially would be too small. I made another cage and it fits down inside the bag, holding it in place.
> 
> Also, for reference, I have both the snap ring barrels and the one in my photo. Neither works better or quicker than the other, aside the fact you do have to align the catches and the rubber pull downs, but which is no issue.


Thanks for the info! I like the idea with the fencing. I can just fold the bag over it to the inside before replacing the lid, and pull it out before removing the bag so it doesn't get punctured. Neat! I'm not that familiar with drum rings, and don't know if the lever rings will work on the bolted ring drum. I'll check it out and go with the hold downs if not. Thanks.


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

imaginationuninc said:


> A 2x on the bottom, probably, would not stop the bag from pulling up. I had some fencing I bought to make tomato cages, because anything sold commercially would be too small. I made another cage and it fits down inside the bag, holding it in place.
> 
> Also, for reference, I have both the snap ring barrels and the one in my photo. Neither works better or quicker than the other, aside the fact you do have to align the catches and the rubber pull downs, but which is no issue.


Ok, I don't use bags so not sure about them. Do you have to pull the cages out of the bag before disposal? Hope the bags are really sturdy!!!!


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

Alphonse53 said:


> That's some great advice on ground up planning! The biggest problem I've found with overhead anything is it gets in the way of lumber and sheet movement, especially swapping ends for planing/shaping. That's why I had to opt for an outside D/C duct with through the wall blast gates. Although my machines are on casters and D/C is against the walls, I'm restricted to that one spot for each one and have to roll or swing the tool out and back in every time I use it. You're spot on with building twice as large as you think you'll need. Two things a woodworker never has enough of is floor space and clamps! Unfortunately, I live in an urban area with zoning restrictions and all that commune stuff.


Well you never know where life might take you. Frankly, I don't know why anyone would live in an urban setting once retired but that is just me.


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## imaginationuninc (7 mo ago)

The cages that hold the bags have about 6" openings. so there isn't a lot of friction, when trying to remove it from the bag [still in the collection can]. 

I use about the cheapest, clear bags you could get. They come in a box from a big box and are for lightweight stuff like leaves. The clear allows me to see through the view port and monitor the debris level.

Regardless which bag you use, lifting it causes the filled bag to fight being lifted straight up. Everything starts pushing hard against the sides of the can. The simple solution is, tie the top and tip the can over and let the sawdust and chips, essentially, flow out. That takes a little coaxing, but works well.

The main trick to success is, the inside of the barrel needs to be smooth, to avoid tearing the bag.




mtlakejim said:


> Ok, I don't use bags so not sure about them. Do you have to pull the cages out of the bag before disposal? Hope the bags are really sturdy!!!!


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

imaginationuninc said:


> The cages that hold the bags have about 6" openings. so there isn't a lot of friction, when trying to remove it from the bag [still in the collection can].
> 
> I use about the cheapest, clear bags you could get. They come in a box from a big box and are for lightweight stuff like leaves. The clear allows me to see through the view port and monitor the debris level.
> 
> ...


Sounds good. Whatever works for ya. I don't use the bags because I don't need them with a tractor and property to dump out the chips. I'm not hauling my chips to the dump grounds. I do suspect that the chips might make good compost though. And I am gearing up to make a better garden hmmmm...........


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## imaginationuninc (7 mo ago)

Mine go to a friend, whose dad makes his own fire logs. If no walnut, it might go in the pile with the grass clippings. Some of the shavings end up out in the 2,000 square foot doggie run.




mtlakejim said:


> Sounds good. Whatever works for ya. I don't use the bags because I don't need them with a tractor and property to dump out the chips. I'm not hauling my chips to the dump grounds. I do suspect that the chips might make good compost though. And I am gearing up to make a better garden hmmmm...........


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

mtlakejim said:


> Well you never know where life might take you. Frankly, I don't know why anyone would live in an urban setting once retired but that is just me.


I hear you. I have some rural inherited property in the backwoods of Mississippi, not close to anything. My wife's mother is still alive close to where we live along with my kids and grandchild. If we moved and rebuilt we'd be 80+ away, but all the insurance savings would be enough to pay myself back for a house. We never do know where life might take us. Even with all the careful planning there are no guarantees.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

imaginationuninc said:


> The cages that hold the bags have about 6" openings. so there isn't a lot of friction, when trying to remove it from the bag [still in the collection can].
> 
> I use about the cheapest, clear bags you could get. They come in a box from a big box and are for lightweight stuff like leaves. The clear allows me to see through the view port and monitor the debris level.
> 
> ...


That's what I do to relieve the vacuum at the bottom. The bags I have came off a construction job and are extra thick and meant for a 55gal. drum. That may be why the lid won't seal tight if they hang on the outside.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

Alphonse53 said:


> Looks like a grounding specialist might be needed. Good luck at any rate!


Thought I’d post a photo of a blast gate in action. The hose to the shaper it goes to is temporarily disconnected so you can see what’s going on. It’d be nice if I could post a video showing the on/off cycle.


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

Alphonse53 said:


> Thought I’d post a photo of a blast gate in action. The hose to the shaper it goes to is temporarily disconnected so you can see what’s going on. It’d be nice if I could post a video showing the on/off cycle.
> View attachment 403947


Looks like you even mounted the air cylinder similar to ours (although it looks like you used all metal as opposed to the wood we used for some parts)! And the same air regulator. I'll try to get some pictures of the other parts we are using on here. I think we will be somewhere around $60 per machine. You can't get even close to that with GRIT or IVAC. The cost of blast gates is completely out of line with IVAC at $130+ that runs up the cost of a system real fast. I just looked at one of their "packages" to control just three blast gates $780 before tax and shipping!!!!!

Many of our gates will be hidden under tables and the ability to remotely switch them becomes almost essential.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> I'll have to try an add pictures as I clean up.
> 
> Finally got my work bench back. Was covered for two years..
> View attachment 401031





Bob Adams said:


> It took me a year of late nights and weekends to build my retirement shop, finished it in 2014. The building is 70x 17, the heated part of the shop is 30x17. The wood rack is 13x8. My wife insisted that she be able to park her car inside so the remainder is a 2 car garage and store room.
> View attachment 401084
> 
> 
> ...


Nice layout. I have learned a few things in my converted backyard beauty shop/she shed: A shop needs to be at least 16'-18' across, have 10' ceilings with all the natural lighting you can gather and dust collection piping either in the floor or through the exterior walls. I like the generous bench and T/S walk-a-round space afforded by the 17' width. I only have 13' and it's barely enough. I need to ask if you have enough floor space and clamps?


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

mtlakejim said:


> Looks like you even mounted the air cylinder similar to ours (although it looks like you used all metal as opposed to the wood we used for some parts)! And the same air regulator. I'll try to get some pictures of the other parts we are using on here. I think we will be somewhere around $60 per machine. You can't get even close to that with GRIT or IVAC. The cost of blast gates is completely out of line with IVAC at $130+ that runs up the cost of a system real fast. I just looked at one of their "packages" to control just three blast gates $780 before tax and shipping!!!!!
> 
> Many of our gates will be hidden under tables and the ability to remotely switch them becomes almost essential.


Wow! I don't see why anyone would go with iVac. I built four for about $300 including the control box. The 24VDC power supply was about $100 more, but it supplies power for other users. Everything for each one could be mounted to the gate itself with control wiring going to the machine, and the signal wire to the D/C, 24VDC power supply, and air run up to a raceway. I like the signal lights being together so I can troubleshoot an issue across the system at a glance. Mine are pretty labor intensive. I take the gate apart, grind off the tits on the line side to tighten the clearance and get a good seal when it's shut, mount the flow switch to a tailpiece behind the gate, plus all else you see. They would manufacture for about the same price as the iVac, but the design of mine virtually eliminates every failure scenario, and mine uses common components that operate on 24VDC, not the oddball 16V. That alone keeps it simple and shop repairable for years.


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## imaginationuninc (7 mo ago)

This is what my bag hold down creature looks like.



Alphonse53 said:


> Thanks for the info! I like the idea with the fencing. I can just fold the bag over it to the inside before replacing the lid, and pull it out before removing the bag so it doesn't get punctured. Neat! I'm not that familiar with drum rings, and don't know if the lever rings will work on the bolted ring drum. I'll check it out and go with the hold downs if not. Thanks.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

imaginationuninc said:


> This is what my bag hold down creature looks like.


Cool! Doesn't even have to fit tight. Just something to keep it from collapsing until the chips start filling.


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## genaccmiller (15 h ago)

Here is mine.























Sent from my GM1917 using Tapatalk


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## mtlakejim (6 d ago)

Ah a fellow Ryobi tool collector. That is a very tidy setup!


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