# Using a router to cut laminate



## dcook140 (Sep 13, 2011)

I am reworking some cabinet doors I made. I need to cut 4 x 8 sheets of laminate and would like to use a hand router or large router.. has anyone had any experience?


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Dennis

Yes, lots, because I do shop and interior fit-out work. My response is _don't_ use a laminate trimmer or router to do your initial sizing of Formica laminate sheet. It will take a much bigger bite out of the work and you are more likely to chip or damage the material. In addition you'll need a sacrificial sheet of stiff material (e.g.1/2in plywood or MDF) beneath the sheet to support it.

My experience is that sizing is best done on a large table saw (i.e. an industrial panel saw) because 10 x 4ft sheets of laminate take some handling. When that isn't a possibility lay the laminate on a flat surface such as a sheet of chipboard (particle board), MDF, hardboard, etc., mark-out your pieces _on the decorative face side_ (which should come protected by a plastic film) with a straight edge and felt tip marker, then score along the lines using a carbide laminate scorer or Stanley knife fitted with a laminate blade and a steel straight edge. It may take several passes to cut deep enough to be able to snap off the pieces cleanly so take your time and _watch your fingers_. remember, you're only scoring the material, not trying to cut right through. Always cut oversize to leave a 5 to 10mm (1/4 to 3/8in) overhang all round when the laminate is applied to the workpiece. For strip cutting (e.g. for worktop edges, door edges, etc) the best solution is a Virutex CO15L laminate strip cutter, but these are expensive tools and only worthwhile for the professional. If you insist on having one of these avoid the cheap Chinese knock-offs of this tool that are around - they aren't as well made, the cutters don't last and all they'll give you is grief. A cheaper solution is this simple strip scorer like the one which Gundlach used to sell. Whilst now delisted you may have luck in finding one if you shop around (circa $10 to $15). Other brands which had these include Eclipse. These tools are worth looking for; it is a lot safer and more accurate (less wasteful) to use a strip cutter than it is to try scoring with a straight edge. The other way to cut down laminate sheet is to use a Klenk laminate shears. The ones to look for are the model #K12 which are designed to be used over the sheet (thus allowing full sheet "rips" to be performed (I have a pair of these in my site tool kit mainly used to cut oversize pieces down before application). For curved and intricate pieces Klenk also do a nibbler, the model #K14, although I've never really found the need for them

Regards

Phil


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Dennis, as Phil mentioned a table saw is about as good as it gets for cutting sheets of laminate like Formica/Laminex. A sharp carbide tipped saw blade gets the best results when used with a zero clearance table insert since this supports the laminate fully. Phil is a professional in this area so his advice is worth listening to. When building router tables I have achieved acceptable results by cutting laminate with a Freud 10" 50 tooth combo blade. Once your laminate is glued to the material trimming with a router is easy since the laminate is fully supported.


PS: A Stanley knife in Queens English = a utility knife in American English.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dennis

A small trim router will do the job just fine, I clamp a pair of boards down and buzz the part out I need and just about always 1/4" bigger all the way round, you can't put it back on if you cut it a bit to short  and you don't need a tank router to cut 1/16" thick stock..


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dcook140 said:


> I am reworking some cabinet doors I made. I need to cut 4 x 8 sheets of laminate and would like to use a hand router or large router.. has anyone had any experience?


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Mike said:


> PS: A Stanley knife in Queens English = a utility knife in American English.


Wow, Mike, and there was me thinking you used the same terminology :fie: Thanks for the correction. Now I know (for the future). It's a bit like Hoover, I suppose (which means "vacuum cleaner" over here, same there or different I wonder?)

There's a quick and dirty way to make a zero clearance insert for laminate cutting; take an offcut piece of 4mm MDF, 3.2mm or 1/8in hardboard/masomnite or a 1/8in piece of plywood, position the rip fence for the laminate cut and push the sheet stock through hard against the rip fence until it just passes out the back of the blade. The sheet stock will normally just sit there while you feed laminate through over the top of it. Has the plus that the lminate can't submarine beneath the rip fence (between the underside of the rip fence and the table).

Regards

Phil


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## dcook140 (Sep 13, 2011)

Thank you very much.. I will use the carbide knife.. I was looking for a short cut, but every time I take one, I find it costs me money and time.
Thanks for your advice.


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## Dal300 (Jul 14, 2011)

Dennis, the only shortcut I know of is to use the blade out of a reciprocating saw for scoring.
the tip is usually extremely sharp and hefty enough to handle a strong downward push.
Wrap the back end with duct tape so you don't cut your hand.

A couple of scores with the blade and it's pretty easy to snap the laminate.


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

I use to cut the laminate after it was placed on the plywood with the router. Previously I cut it to length with a very sharp knife. Later I have seen that there were "laminate cutters" but I see them as another router. Which ones are the differences among them?


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## Eric G. (Aug 2, 2011)

I am not a professional laminate installer and I have no special tooling. I just resurfaced my 4'x6' assembly table with Formica using common tooling. I started with a 5'x8' piece of formica and rough cut it (about a inch larger all around) to to size with my trusty cordless circular saw. I supported the formica with a piece of foam sheeting during the cut. After I bonded this over size sheet to my work surface with contact cement, I first flush cut it with the router then used a chamfer bit for the final edge.


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