# is a portable router powerful enough for cutting slots on side of ipe boards?



## tico (Mar 25, 2017)

I am a newbie to routers, and would like to know if a portable router is powerful enough to cut slots on the side of an ipe board which is a pretty hard wood.
I've seen instructions to use a 3-wing slot cutter (5/32" width and 1/2" depth).
Was considering buying a portable 1.25HP router such as the DeWalt DWP611 router.

Thanks


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Welcome to the forum.

Are you talking about cutting a slot on the edge of the material or on the flat side?
How many feet in length are you talking about?
The router bit may dull before the router gives out.

More info please.


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## tico (Mar 25, 2017)

this is for a deck, slots will be on the edge, a few inches long every 16" (enough to insert a clip to screw the board on a joist).
So the slot does not have to go the full length of the board.

I would have liked to paste a URL of a video showing what I want to do - but looks like I need more than 10 posts ;-(
Google for "how to groove square edge deck boards" on the fastenmaster web site.

You'll find an example of video showing how these small cuts are done but was not sure about the type of router used (again this is for a very hard exotic wood)


Can hand held routers be used for this kind of job?

Thanks!

http://www.fastenmaster.com/blog/details/how-to-groove-square-edge-deck-boards.html


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Sounds like a job for a biscuit jointer


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The biscuit joiner would work but a slot cutter should also do the job but the DW611 is the absolute minimum size router I would use. About 2 hp would be better like a Bosch 1617 or Hitachi M12VC.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

tico said:


> I am a newbie to routers, and would like to know if a portable router is powerful enough to cut slots on the side of an ipe board which is a pretty hard wood.
> I've seen instructions to use a 3-wing slot cutter (5/32" width and 1/2" depth).
> Was considering buying a portable 1.25HP router such as the DeWalt DWP611 router.
> 
> Thanks


1st off machining Ipe is tough on tooling... go w/ the Freud 4-wing cut slot cutter...
also... in this case, more is better...
I'd like to suggest *A Bosch 1617EVS instead... or even the 1617EVSPK...*
way better move... *VOE...*

*WHY I LIKE BOSCH...*
2nd to none CS and support that's absolutely painless...
They respect us, the consumer...
they make tools that are real work horses...
they make tools that last a very long time... decades of hard heavy use..
they make tools that protect my bottom line...
I think/believe Bosch to be an outstanding company that offers outstanding products... 

do yourself a huge favor down road and get a Bosch 1617EVSPK...
*Factory Reconditioned Bosch 1617EVS-RT 12 Amp 2.25 HP Fixed-Base Router*

Saving some money now just may cost you more down the road. 

Bosch is the only one that scores high on all categories and is as close as a phone and your mail box... 
Have a look at CPO outlets for reconditioned. I have never heard a true negative word about them. Their service or Bosch


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I have a pair of the 1617's. I used one to cut raised panel doors. That is a big cutter...almost 3 1/2 inches in diameter. I ran the router at it slowest speed. She moaned and groaned but she did a good job! :surprise::grin:


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## tico (Mar 25, 2017)

ok looks like 1.25hp is going to be a bit challenging as I was suspecting.
I liked them because they are small and lightweight (~4lb).
Moving up to 2hp is going to mean using something over 7lb. So a bit more work to move it around on the deck (I'll have to cut quite a bit of slots) but the recon models are not that much more expensive.
The Bosch 1617b definitely looks like a nice router!

I could not find any Freud 4-wing slot cutter that is 5/32" (only up to 1/4"). All those slot cutters I have seen that cut 5/32" have only 3 wings.

Another option for me would be to buy pre-grooved boards, which adds about $500 to the cost of the boards for a project of my size.

Thanks


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I must have bought a different type of deck board. The ones I bought are tongue and groove. Buy a box of clips and screws and go to town. Simply put a screw and clip into each joist. noting shows above the deck.

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/93529-our-yard-makeover-part-4-a.html

Go to about post #18 where I talk about the playhouse and the deck.


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## subtleaccents (Nov 5, 2011)

Simply put, Ipe is extremely abrasive even on carbide tooling. Horsepower helps (and is needed) so long as the cutting tool stays sharp, then you just produce lots of heat.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

tico said:


> 1... ok looks like 1.25hp is going to be a bit challenging as I was suspecting.
> 2... I liked them because they are small and lightweight (~4lb).
> 3...Moving up to 2hp is going to mean using something over 7lb. So a bit more work to move it around on the deck (I'll have to cut quite a bit of slots) but the recon models are not that much more expensive.
> 4... The Bosch 1617b definitely looks like a nice router!
> ...


1... and a trim router would be worked to death in short order...
2... they have their place..
3... So.. 
you are letting the router get to you before you even get started.. modify your mindset and life will get easier...
slot your pieces before they even get to the deck... do them on a comfortable height work surface...
easier to use the router w/ far better control and results......
are you slotting full length or as just as required for the clips??? 
4... the router others want to emulate...... 
5... use the three wing cutters and dress them often... clean, dress and sharpen often... (see the PDF's)...
6... OUCH!!!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@tico...
your baptism...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

please continue...

.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Are you buying the router just for your deck job...? Or are you starting your investment into woodworking and more future projects...?

If starting your investment, go with the 1617evspk, the slot cutter (maybe two). I gather you're concerned about the weight as you want to route with the board in place to route over the joists...makes sense...but you could also route one board and use that as your storyboard...no precision needed...and work at a comfortable height.

If you want to route in place, try the plunge base and you can slide the router from spot to spot...make yourself a two foot cutoff to put across a couple of joists to help support the router better...so it doesn't wobble on ya...

Good luck...sounds like you have a good plan...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

In my usual humble opinion the biscuit jointer is the quick, easy way to produce such slots as has been suggested.
I realise that the photo shows the slots at 45° on end grain but I've shown it to illustrate how simple the system is.


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## Danman1957 (Mar 14, 2009)

If you have no other need for a powerful router, do you own a table saw ? You could cut the groove easily on the table saw and with feather boards it would be precise and consistant. Also you would be working at a comfortable height. I don't know how long the boards are but it is pretty fast to cut a groove along the entire board. Just a thought !


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

harrysin said:


> In my usual humble opinion the biscuit jointer is the quick, easy way to produce such slots as has been suggested.
> I realise that the photo shows the slots at 45° on end grain but I've shown it to illustrate how simple the system is.


I agree, the biscuit joiner would seem to be perfect for the job. The cutters are 5/32" wide as required, and the tool can sit on top of the joist and cut the slots "in place". Be sure though to let the tool get up to speed before plunging, the hard wood may try to stall the tool and you could get some sideways movement. If the slot has to be a specific height up from the bottom, I would recommend putting a shim on the tool rather than using the fence - although that recommendation is based solely on my experience with the dreadful fence on my 1st gen P-C Model 555 which is not self-aligning and can go out of adjustment at the most inopportune times.


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

Stick486 said:


> @tico...
> your baptism...


Why is long grain the wrong orientation for a spline?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Andy unless you run the spline cross grain as Stick showed then the spline can crack along the grain between the boards. It isn't always necessary to have that level of strength in the spline itself as it is often used for alignment more than strength but the max strength is achieved with the grain in the proper orientation which is crossways to the joint.

I agree with Harry that this would be an easy job with a biscuit joiner and also the fastest way but if the poster doesn't have either tool then the uses he will find for either tool once this job is finished comes into play. A router would be more versatile to have after this job is finished.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Those boards are heavy. Just sayin'

And if I remember correctly, there is no grain. They are manufactured not cut from a tree.

EDIT: After more research, My deck boards must be something other than hard wood. Probably different than what the OP is using..


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Been watching this Conversation I have a question why not buy IPE board pre-grooved
Problem solved. Unless he received the IPE free there is not alot difference in cost


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

AndyL said:


> Why is long grain the wrong orientation for a spline?


way stronger...


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

Stick486 said:


> way stronger...


Does it not give you a very long cross-grain glue joint though? Wouldn't that be prone to failure?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

AndyL said:


> Does it not give you a very long cross-grain glue joint though? Wouldn't that be prone to failure?


no... not in it's application.. never an issue here...


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## tico (Mar 25, 2017)

For the size of the deck, pre-grooved boards will cost around ~ $500 more.
Other than cost, I also need grooves on only 1 side for the edge boards and I think boards that are grooved along the whole length might be less resistant along the edges.


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## tico (Mar 25, 2017)

The reason I'd like to cut in place is the position of the cuts are just above the joists and I can cut 2 adjacent boards at a time.
I"m not really into hard core routing so don't really need the top of the line model for this job. Perhaps the Hitachi M12VC could work equally well for this limited job as it looks cheaper.


Sorry I don't really get what you mean by: "If you want to route in place, try the plunge base and you can slide the router from spot to spot...make yourself a two foot cutoff to put across a couple of joists to help support the router better."

How would the plunge base make this any easier? I was considering to put 2 boards on the joists, clamp them about 2" apart, put the router on top of the 2 boards and cut the 2 slots in 1 circular motion over each joist/ slide to the next joist and repeat...


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

If you're looking for a short groove in the edge of the board at each joist to accept the clip, a fixed base router would be good - although a plunge/fixed combo make be more useful in the future if you're planning more protects with a router, it's just not needed for this project. Make a larger base out of 1/4" plywood to provide support , extend to give you more area sitting on top of the deck board. Set the depth of the slot cutter to give you the correct vertical location in the edge of the deck board. Start the router with the cutter away from the edge of the board, plunge in to depth and then feed sideways to give the slot width needed for the retainer clip.

Make the router base similar to this https://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-14105-Offset-Router/dp/B00F5VURO8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1491219017&sr=1-1&keywords=offset+router+base - 1/4" plywood is OK as it's probably only going to be used for this project, and just attach a short piece of wood to use for a handle. The center hole should be large enough to clear the outside of the slot cutter - you can install the cutter with the motor out of the base as it's easier and then just feed it through the base to get the depth needed. In use, the extended side would rest on the deck board to be grooved, the router started with the other hand and then both hands used to feed the router in to cut the groove. The extended base give you good control of the router, particularly since you would otherwise be starting the cut with only a relatively small part of the base sitting on the board, and this will eliminate any tipping of the router while you're cutting the grooves.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The plunge base makes it a little safer because when you finish routing the groove and let go the spinning bit goes back up inside the base. Both type routers will do the job. The advice here has always been that if you are buying your first router then it should be a plunge because there are some jobs that can only be done with a plunge but there are no jobs that a fixed base can do that a plunge can't also do. The Hitachi M12VC is a very good router, smooth and powerful, with good balance at least in the fixed base version. I only have it as a fixed base because I also have the M12V and an M12V2 in plunge models. I've had very good service from my Hitachi routers.


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