# How Often Do You Check The Lower Thrust Bearing On You Band Saw



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

I was installing a new blade on my band saw this morning and discovered that the lower thrust bearing had gone gunny sack. The last time I installed a blade which was a couple of months ago the bearing was turning freely. It had quit turning and had a groove in it. It had gotten so hot that the grease had completely run out.

Fortunately my neighbor had a replacement. I order three new ones from Grizzly just now. I will be watching for this regularly in the future.

Maybe I'm the only one, but I doubt it, that is guilty of letting this situation happen with my saw. I'm wondering if others have had this experience or not. Also, do other people regularly check the bearing other than when changing blades?

Jerry B.


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## pal (Feb 13, 2008)

Jerry, I check the bearings every time before I switch the bandsaw on now as I have been caught a couple of times with knackered bearings. 

Harold


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Used to every time I changed blades... then I replaced it with a ceramic one.

Now... never!


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## Garyk (Dec 29, 2011)

I have a habit of checking over EVERY power tool before I turn it on. I don't like surprises. That doesn't mean an "in depth" inspection of every part but those things that are easy to visually check. Several times each year I go "down in the bowels" and check all of the parts & pieces. It takes time but could save you money or avoid a bad accident some where along the way.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

On my bandsaw, I check and adjust guides and thrust every time I change blades which is pretty frequent. I do a cursory check, including a quick tension check, every time I use it, though.


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

PhilBa said:


> On my bandsaw, I check and adjust guides and thrust every time I change blades which is pretty frequent. I do a cursory check, including a quick tension check, every time I use it, though.


Good advice Phil, N


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I have to laugh, when I changed my blade a couple of days ago, I found the same thing. I always keep an extra bearing on hand, have to order a new one now. I do a lot of resawing and they don't last long. Why don't they??? 
In my opinion they are using the bearing wrong or the wrong bearing. If the bearing was turned 90 degrees so it spun like a bearing is supposed to spin ,they would probably last forever. Here you have a blade pulling down on the side edge of the bearing on top turning the bearing that rubs on the bottom of the bearing causing friction heat and eventually freezing up the bearing and filing a groove from top to bottom. This bearing does not guide the blade only keeps it from being pushed back ,the guides are on the side. 
Thats my opinion and I am sticking with it.

Herb


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Herb Stoops said:


> I have to laugh, when I changed my blade a couple of days ago, I found the same thing. I always keep an extra bearing on hand, have to order a new one now. I do a lot of resawing and they don't last long. Why don't they???
> In my opinion they are using the bearing wrong or the wrong bearing. If the bearing was turned 90 degrees so it spun like a bearing is supposed to spin ,they would probably last forever. Here you have a blade pulling down on the side edge of the bearing on top turning the bearing that rubs on the bottom of the bearing causing friction heat and eventually freezing up the bearing and filing a groove from top to bottom. This bearing does not guide the blade only keeps it from being pushed back ,the guides are on the side.
> Thats my opinion and I am sticking with it.
> 
> Herb


Herb,
I'm not quite following you for sure. My saw, and I suspect that it is typical, is such that the bottom bearing, the one that just went bad on me is positioned parallel with the blade, and it's axle at 90 degrees to the edge of the blade. Hard to describe this, isn't it. The top thrust bearing is the one that is position at a 90 degree angle to the blade. The bearing on top is not as prone to get debri in it. The lower one is the one that is prone to getting the debri in it. The guy that helped me when I ordered replacements from Grizzly said that the lower bearing always seem to go first due to the debri.

As I said, I had always checked the bearing when changing blades but don't change them as often as some do. I, in my ignorance about such things did not have a spare on hand, but will in the future and will be checking all of the bearings on a regular and constant basis now after what I learned.



Jerry B.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Hi Jerry,
Hmmmmm My cousins new last year 14" grizzly is the same as my Ridgid and the same as my Prior Craftsman 14" and 9" Delta ,just the opposite of yours. 

Herb


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## lenh (Feb 27, 2009)

Herb Stoops said:


> Hi Jerry,
> Hmmmmm My cousins new last year 14" grizzly is the same as my Ridgid and the same as my Prior Craftsman 14" and 9" Delta ,just the opposite of yours.
> 
> Herb


Herb, without the pictures I would not have believed it. Why the thrust bearing would be "sidways" is beyond me. I know that on my Powermatic both bearings are the way they should be. After 10 years of pretty hard use, nary a problem. I don't find them to be full of the crud that your pictures show. (I use dust collection) Same is true of my little 10" Crapsman band saw - both bearings run in line with the blade.

Len


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

lenh said:


> Herb, without the pictures I would not have believed it. Why the thrust bearing would be "sidways" is beyond me. I know that on my Powermatic both bearings are the way they should be. After 10 years of pretty hard use, nary a problem. I don't find them to be full of the crud that your pictures show. (I use dust collection) Same is true of my little 10" Crapsman band saw - both bearings run in line with the blade.
> 
> Len


I my experience, perpendicular to the blade is more the norm than not! 

I still say replace them with ceramic. Hartville tools has them for about $22 for a pair. I love mine and they will likely outlast me and the saw.

Miscellaneous Bandsaw Accessories - SPACE AGE CERAMIC BAND SAW THRUST BEARINGS

Still have to adjust them when changing blades, of course. But I don't worry about them failing, period.


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## lenh (Feb 27, 2009)

Dmeadows said:


> I my experience, perpendicular to the blade is more the norm than not!
> 
> I still say replace them with ceramic. Hartville tools has them for about $22 for a pair. I love mine and they will likely outlast me and the saw.
> 
> ...


Hey Duane. Have to agree ceramic would be 100 per cent better. I just can't figure out why a bearing would be perpendicular. I guess there is a good reason why mfgs do that. Any idea why?

Len


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

lenh said:


> Hey Duane. Have to agree ceramic would be 100 per cent better. I just can't figure out why a bearing would be perpendicular. I guess there is a good reason why mfgs do that. Any idea why?
> 
> Len


Len the only reason I can think of would be space. Functionally, rather dumb! I have changed many for the obvious problem it causes. Paid well, though


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## lenh (Feb 27, 2009)

Dmeadows said:


> Len the only reason I can think of would be space. Functionally, rather dumb! I have changed many for the obvious problem it causes. Paid well, though


Duane, thanks, that makes sense to me (cents if you are a mfg)

Len


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Thanks Len, for the link, I didn't see that in the Hartville tool catalog. Great idea. They will pay for themselves over time. 

I've got dust collection too, and it removes 90%, but I just got through resawing a bunch of Maple and a little accumulated under the table.


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## JMS308 (Aug 12, 2014)

I have an oldie but goodie band saw, a Shopmaster SB200. Both thrust bearings run the same as Herb's do. 

After the holiday, I'm changing to a new blade and guides. I'll measure the bearings at that time so I can order new ones. I can see they'll be destroyed before too long.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Jerry, is it possible the blade needs to ride further out on the bearing...see Herb's pictures...so that the blade rides on the outer surface...? It seems by riding on the outer edge the blade and the bearing would run closer to the same speed...?

Just thinking out loud...Nick


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Nickp said:


> Jerry, is it possible the blade needs to ride further out on the bearing...see Herb's pictures...so that the blade rides on the outer surface...? It seems by riding on the outer edge the blade and the bearing would run closer to the same speed...?
> 
> Just thinking out loud...Nick


Nick, 
I don't think that there is any adjustment to achieve any setting other that letting the bearing run other than where it does now. The upper bearing is not as susceptible to debri a is the lower bearing. However, since I'm not out in the shop right now I am not certain about the possible adjustment that you are referring to. I will have a look when in the shop next time. 


Jerry


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Jerry, just found this... http://www.ccwwa.org/newsite/plans/bandsawtuneup2.pdf

See page 50...not sure if your saw requires same adjustment...the link seems to be "general"...it might give longer life to the bearing...

Nick


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Len, I have my order in for the ceramic bearings.
In the discussion it was brought out as the logic behind all this, well if you view this vidio of an old saw mill you will see how close our modern tools conform to the OLD vintage power tools of the 1800's.
Take note of the bandsaw guide bearings, planer head, the jointer fence, the table saw,drill chuck ,etc.

http://www.folkstreams.net/film,187
Herb


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## lenh (Feb 27, 2009)

Thanks for the video, Herb. I love watching how things were done before electricity. You're right we are not all that advanced from the 1800's. I wish I had the energy that ol' Ben has. 

OSHA would go into cardiac arrest if they walked into a shop like Ben's.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

You are 100% right about old Ben and OSHA, Len.
I got the ceramic bearings and they fit right on my saw took about 5 minutes to change over. 
I started to resaw some 9" wide maple and I noticed sparks coming off my blade, is that what they are supposed to do? I had them backed off so under no load the blade was not touching them , but when I start to saw the blade moves back and rubs causing the blade to give off sparks, Not sure I like that under the table where I can't see it and where the sawdust is mixed in with the sparks. 
Anyone have that experience?


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## lenh (Feb 27, 2009)

Herb Stoops said:


> You are 100% right about old Ben and OSHA, Len.
> I got the ceramic bearings and they fit right on my saw took about 5 minutes to change over.
> I started to resaw some 9" wide maple and I noticed sparks coming off my blade, is that what they are supposed to do? I had them backed off so under no load the blade was not touching them , but when I start to saw the blade moves back and rubs causing the blade to give off sparks, Not sure I like that under the table where I can't see it and where the sawdust is mixed in with the sparks.
> Anyone have that experience?


You are getting sparks where the back of the blade is contacting the ceramic bearing?


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Herb--i recently purchased a used Laguna so i'm new to ceramic guides, but a few sparks are normal according to them. They have a few videos on their web site on the setup of their guide system that are pretty good. For the Laguna guides, back of the blade just touching is the recommendation, and with use the amount of sparks reduces. My thrust guide is round, mounted slightly off center on the blade, and it's suggested to rotate 15 degrees or so on occasion to keep the resulting groove from getting too deep. It's a little different setup than "normal" and sure seemed aggressive to me but the blades are very stable when set up as suggested.

earl


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Herb Stoops said:


> You are 100% right about old Ben and OSHA, Len.
> I got the ceramic bearings and they fit right on my saw took about 5 minutes to change over.
> I started to resaw some 9" wide maple and I noticed sparks coming off my blade, is that what they are supposed to do? I had them backed off so under no load the blade was not touching them , but when I start to saw the blade moves back and rubs causing the blade to give off sparks, Not sure I like that under the table where I can't see it and where the sawdust is mixed in with the sparks.
> Anyone have that experience?


Yes, but even with the regular guide bearings, I would get an occasional spark. I don't think the sparks are large enough to be concerned about. The ceramic do spark more than the roller bearings. I've been using them for way over a year. Have not seen, nor heard of any issues.

I get way more sparks when I grind turning tools. Not something I am too concerned about.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I guess I am paranoid about fire after loosing my last shop, and I have visions of a spark smoldering for hours in fine sawdust then in the middle of the night "Poof", I couldn't go through that again. That is why I use only water based finishes and shellac. I am forgetful at times and might wander off leaving a wadded up oily stain rag laying behind. Also I have an electrician do all my main wiring and not jury rig it in. but that aside, I am still not assured. Hmmmmm

Herb


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Herb, I can understand that losing a shop would make you a bit nervous. The sparks in question are too small too lay around and smolder. Think of any tool that has a universal motor... routers, miter saws, most portable tools fall into this category, the brushes usually arc a bit in use also!

I even arc weld in the shop sometimes. I do take a lot more precautions with that, though! At a minimum cleaning up any wood dust first.

Even striking a nail with a hammer can cause sparks! If we keep things generally clean, I think we'll be ok. Gotta have something to burn before a fire can be sustained.

I gotta admit I would rather make sawdust than clean up sawdust!


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Thanks for the reassurance ,Duane. I was using it yesterday and it seems like less sparks, I took the one off the bottom for now and use a ball bearing there until I feel comfortable with it.
A person told me that there are conversion sets to an in-line bearing, I am goingto investigate that. I can imagine that on the top one but might be a major rebuild for a bottom one.HMmmmmm


Herb


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Same is true of my little 10" Crapsman band saw - both bearings run in line with the blade.

Len[/QUOTE]



heehee, that is CRAFTSMAN ,Len, I have a 3 wheeler I use all the time for making fast cuts when I am making jigs. HAHAHhAHAA


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## Garyk (Dec 29, 2011)

I have seen this arrangement on bandsaws before. The idea is that the bearing will turn clockwise IF the back of the blade is touching the right (looking at the picture) side of the bearing. The heat blocks are also touching the blade and helping hold the blade against the bearing. This arrangement does not leave any room for loose (sloppy) blocks or a bearing that is not touching the blade. I would suggest the ceramic heat blocks (sinks) for a saw set up in this manner. They do a better job of helping hold the blade against the bearing and centered. The bearing will turn but must be constantly checked for the proper position. Needless to say the area must be kept clean. I had a saw set up this way and found that replacing the OEM tires with the better aftermarket tires helped. I used the blue urethane type and it was like having a new saw.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

After extended use the sparking problem seems to have gone away. It seems to have polished the back of the blade, the edages of the back are smoother than before. I feel better about it now, I will install the one below decks and see if works. thanks for all the help. 

Herb


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I just ran across this link about ceramic guides and thrust bearings that I will pass along to you.

OnlineToolReviews.com - Spaceage Ceramic Guideblocks Review

Herb


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