# Coping sled



## delirous26 (Aug 18, 2007)

hi everyone simple question i was looking into a coping sled for the router table does anyone know of a good deal on one or know of a website that can help you make one yourself.any help would be good.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi delirous26

They are easy to make BUT most of the ones you see plans don't work well 

Let me explain why they don't work well,,, in order to do a coping cut you must put the Fence on the same type of stock that the sled is made out of in order to get the ( bits) to work right...
Lets say you make your sled out of 1/4" plastic, you should put the 1/4" plastic under the fence as well,,, this will set the bit height for you in a way...

Once you have the strip of plastic screw to the bottom of the fence, now your sled will be at the same height as the bottom of the fence,,,, once your done with the coping bit your set to make the pattern pass on the other parts....all you need to do is put in the pattern bit drop the bit down so it lines up with the coping cut you just did on the other parts of the frame..

Once you have it set lock it down and run your pattern cut and your parts they should come right out on the button...

The sled you can make with some 1/4" MDF or 1/4" plastic and one or two hold down quick clamps you can get from Rockler and many other outlets.

They make many kinds of toggle clamps here a link to some of them.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2150&filter=toggle clamps
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=2150&TabSelect=Details
The one I like is the Rockler #20738 Heavy Duty Lever Clamp, it will let you do just about all from 3/8" to 
1 3/8" thick stock....

Note Don't use the screws they come with to hold them in place use flat head screws with nuts,,, to hold them to the 1/4" stock..

If you need any help how to make a siimple sled just ask and I will post a quick drawing of one...

Here's a link to the one that Oak Park sells,,, note the sled and the plastic under the fence... 

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=RTS-RPS-



Bj 

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delirous26 said:


> hi everyone simple question i was looking into a coping sled for the router table does anyone know of a good deal on one or know of a website that can help you make one yourself.any help would be good.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Good info Bj! Thanks!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Corey

Bob and Rick have it down right, the old pro. knows how to use the router table.....I just watch and learn... 

Many ways to get this type of job done but this is one of the easy ways..
But it takes a jig/sled like Oak-Park sells 



Bj 



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challagan said:


> Good info Bj! Thanks!
> 
> Corey


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## Woodnut65 (Oct 11, 2004)

Hi: I would reccomend the sled made by Infinity tools. The bottom plate is solid aluminum, about 5/16ths thick. It won't bed when you clamp something to it.
I think they are charging 99 dolars for it. Woodnut65


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi delirous26

I should have asked if you wanted to see a snapshot of the Oak-Park jig or to say a copy cat copy of the I made and use..

You will find out I like to take snapshots and post them , alot   LOL 

SO if you do just ask and it will be done ...

Bj 


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delirous26 said:


> hi everyone simple question i was looking into a coping sled for the router table does anyone know of a good deal on one or know of a website that can help you make one yourself.any help would be good.


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## Doyle (Mar 20, 2007)

Hi BJ
If you find the time, I would like to see the sled you made. I find there is always something to learn.
Take care
Doyle


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Doyle

Here's a snapshot or two of the copy cat sled..

I have some BIG panel bits ( 3 5/8" OD )that's way you see the 4 1/4" ID hole in the center and I use it on almost of the router tables...


see below
Bj 

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Doyle said:


> Hi BJ
> If you find the time, I would like to see the sled you made. I find there is always something to learn.
> Take care
> Doyle


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## Doyle (Mar 20, 2007)

Thanks for the reply and the photos of the sled.
After all these years, it was not until I saw your dust collection ring on your router jigs that it occurred to me how to do that.
Thanks BJ.
Take care
Doyle


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Doyle and you'er welcome


Safety Pin Jig

The jig works great for many jobs when you don't need the fence 
Plus it can put in place quick with 2ea. small 1/4-20 holes and screw knobs and it works on all router table plates.. 

Just a note**** the safety pin snapshots got put in by error by me but I think I will just let them be...it's a neat jig that may can make easy and use...by many... I think....

more snapshots of the safety pin & vac. pickup,see URL below
http://www.routerforums.com/52092-post7.html
Bj 


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Doyle said:


> Thanks for the reply and the photos of the sled.
> After all these years, it was not until I saw your dust collection ring on your router jigs that it occurred to me how to do that.
> Thanks BJ.
> Take care
> Doyle


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## Doyle (Mar 20, 2007)

You are right BJ and I bet there are quite a few jig-gadgets and widget-jigs being copied from items that are posted, which is a good thing. Every little bit helps.
Thanks for the reply.
Take care
Doyle


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## delirous26 (Aug 18, 2007)

hello bj
i like the safety pin design, hate to ask but how is that made i would be interested in that, this is my next project for my table. I noticed an arc on that whats the radius.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi delirous26

It's a easy and a quick one to make, I use some 3/4" scrap MDF, I glued up 3 blanks then took the band saw and did the arc cut, it can be anything you want it to be,, the pin point on the end should with in 1/2" to 1 1/4" from the router bit....once you have the part cut out I took some plastic and did a quick copy of the part on it and then back to the band saw to cut it out but this time it's bit over size,, you will see that in the pictures...
The vac.pickup part can be what every you want it to be or need it to be.
You will see the 1st.one was/is a wood rings,they work great for a vac.pickup hose holder..
Once all parts are cut out then I took some double sided carpet tape and stuck the pastic part to the wood block, then drilled the holes for the wood screws and the two hold down knobs....once the holes are drilled I place the block on the router table on the base plate and took a a 1/4" drill bit to mark the holes in the base plate,,, once that's done I took a #7 drill bit and drilled the holes in the base plate and ran a 1/4-20 tap down the hole,,, 

Just a note besure to drill the hold down holes back from the router hole you don't want to hit the the router under the base plate with the drill bit..

Once that's done your almost done, I did a bit of sanding on the block to clean it up, then I pulled out some 1/4-20 all thread rod and made the hold down bolts and used nuts on the bottom side of the knobs to lock them in place...

It's done and it's real quick to pop it in place or remove it when you want to use the fence...

Hole this helps 

http://www.routerforums.com/52092-post7.html
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delirous26 said:


> hello bj
> i like the safety pin design, hate to ask but how is that made i would be interested in that, this is my next project for my table. I noticed an arc on that whats the radius.


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## delirous26 (Aug 18, 2007)

thanks for the info it was very helpfull, the question i have is between the arc on the wood and plastic can i put them together and use a trim bit and the other question is where your two knobs are whats the distance between them basically i need an idea whats the length and width of that jig would be helpfull. again thanks for the info


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi delirous26

Trim bit, you bet that's the way to do it..
But you need to take care the bit bearing will get hot and may sink in the pastic..
If you have a sq. bearing put it on your trim bit b/4 you use it..

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Just in case you don't know about 
SQUARE EURO BEARINGS
http://woodworkersworld.net/laminate_trim_bits.shtml#sq
You can buy just the bearing(s) # B3SQ
Also from MLCS


The square bearing stops spinning as soon as it touches the work piece. 
Then the side of the square simply slides along the work piece edge. 
Compare this to a regular bearing that rolls along the edge, building up more glue and residue with every revolution. 

And putting that nasty bearing mark on the stock..  that's hard to get out sometimes... 

Plus the square is made of non-stick Teflon, so it wipes clean and won't mark your work piece. 
These bits are designed with a slight taper on the cutting diameter. 


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delirous26 said:


> thanks for the info it was very helpfull, the question i have is between the arc on the wood and plastic can i put them together and use a trim bit and the other question is where your two knobs are whats the distance between them basically i need an idea whats the length and width of that jig would be helpfull. again thanks for the info


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## delirous26 (Aug 18, 2007)

thanks for the info bj you have been very helpfull with this, when i get done making this i will send photos of it im going to have to figure out what software to use tho but again thanks.


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## garycurtis (Sep 17, 2007)

I agree with WoodNut65. I also have the Infinity. It weighs 8 lbs and has a half-inch aluminum plate for a base. I learned how to do Cope & Stick cuts on a Shaper, so I know that those end cuts on a rail really throw the wood around violently.

Pat Warner told me he doesn't even recommend doing Coping on a router because of the danger. I haven't used my Infinity, but the selling point was the abrasive strips on the base, the 3-500 lb DeStaco clamps, the heft, and the Lexan safety guard that covers the cutting action. 

The sled has two contoured handles to control it. I'll report back after I've gotten some use on the device. Not waving the flag. I just figured that is was better to buy a manufactured item when so many forces will be acting on it. 

Gary Curtis
Trinity County California


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