# Asking For Opinions On A Matter



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

My question today is in reference to a scroll saw. I have a half inch blade on my BS that works well for 90 percent of my need to own a BS.

However, there are a few times that I need to install a 1/8th blade when I need to cut some curves such as making template for an inlays etc.

Changing blades on the big 17" BS takes time and is a job that I do not relish, so I'm thinking about just buying scroll saw, so that I won't have the hassle of changing blades on the BS.

My question is of course is, does this approach make sense, and if not, what would be a better approach outside of buying a second BS which is what I had been thinking of doing until I thought of the scroll saw.

Jerry B.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I can't help ya, Jerry. I am in the same boat. I have a 3/16 inch blade on my saw and want to install a 1/2 incher. It seems every time I get ready, something comes up and I need to cut the curvy stuff. 

My biggest problem is I don't have floor space for another big tool. Even the scroll saw would take up room unless I could figure out a way to store it on a shelf and pull it out when needed. IMO, the band saw would be much faster to use.

Jump in fellas. What say you?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> My question today is in reference to a scroll saw. I have a half inch blade on my BS that works well for 90 percent of my need to own a BS.
> 
> However, there are a few times that I need to install a 1/8th blade when I need to cut some curves such as making template for an inlays etc.
> 
> ...


Jerry, Bandsaws are not ideal in making closed cutout templates. Scroll saws are better,or a jig saw. I have a new Makita 12v. lithium jig saw and with the bosch blades it eats up 3/4" thick material. I have real problems cutting anything on a scroll saw over 1/8" thick. I break blades like crazy,so bought this little jig saw.
Hope this helps. Herb


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Herb Stoops said:


> Jerry, Bandsaws are not ideal in making closed cutout templates. Scroll saws are better,or a jig saw. I have a new Makita 12v. lithium jig saw and with the bosch blades it eats up 3/4" thick material. I have real problems cutting anything on a scroll saw over 1/8" thick. I break blades like crazy,so bought this little jig saw.
> Hope this helps. Herb


Herb,
Your input does help a lot. Not having any experience with a scroll saw I would not know aobut issue of breaking blades as you described. Can you make fairly tight curves with the jig saw?

I have an old Craftsman jig saw that came with that first batch of used tools five years ago. I have never got the hand of using it, when I turn the saw to follow a line, the saw turns and the blade does not follow the same amount. So you have to turn the saw more than you think tht need and hope that the blade turns the right amount which it never does. I have not ashed canned the saw but sure have not love for it.

Ihope that the answer to the problem is that it is just junk and a good jig saw like what you are talking about would be a good choice.

Give me more feed back, this is sure what I have asked about, thanks.

Jerry


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

MT Stringer said:


> I can't help ya, Jerry. I am in the same boat. I have a 3/16 inch blade on my saw and want to install a 1/2 incher. It seems every time I get ready, something comes up and I need to cut the curvy stuff.
> 
> My biggest problem is I don't have floor space for another big tool. Even the scroll saw would take up room unless I could figure out a way to store it on a shelf and pull it out when needed. IMO, the band saw would be much faster to use.
> 
> Jump in fellas. What say you?


Mike,
When you say faster, do you mean that the BS would cut faster. Due to my inexperience with cutting curves and my vision issue, I cut curves very slowly as it is, but what Herb has pointed about about the scroll saw is sure causing me to shy away from going that route. I might fall back to buying a second BS that I can just keep a narrow blade on all of the time. Space is not problem in my large shop. 

The 14" Grizzly is the one that I have had my eye on for about $500 plus freight. But it sure would just be a luxury not a need. I'm going to look closer at the jig saw after I get some feed back about the matter from other members.

Jerry B.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Herb Stoops said:


> Jerry, Bandsaws are not ideal in making closed cutout templates. Scroll saws are better,or a jig saw. I have a new Makita 12v. lithium jig saw and with the bosch blades it eats up 3/4" thick material. I have real problems cutting anything on a scroll saw over 1/8" thick. I break blades like crazy,so bought this little jig saw.
> Hope this helps. Herb


Herb,
Is this the saw that you have?

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-VJ01W-12-volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B009RNJO9O


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Jerry, I have to agree with Herb about the jigsaw. I too had an "elcheapo" jigsaw, even cheaper than the Craftsman you have. While it DID cut, it was always a struggle as it did not cut well, or fast. I've since upgraded to a Bosch jigsaw.... what a difference!! A more powerful motor, better constructed base, and better quality blades have all combined to make a real nice cutting saw. 

As to your original question, I do have a scroll saw which doesn't see much use since I got the aforementioned jigsaw. I also have (had?) a cheap small bandsaw. I blew a tire on it a while back and haven't decided to fix it or scrap it. Honestly, I haven't missed it.


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

I will agree,don't go cheap on the jigsaw,I bought a cheap one for one job thinking I would never use it again,since found multiple time I could use it but it is a piece of xo%£ so I cannot get a good cut
Herb says the Bosch is good,if it's like there routers,it's the best


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Mike,
> When you say faster, do you mean that the BS would cut faster. Due to my inexperience with cutting curves and my vision issue, I cut curves very slowly as it is, but what Herb has pointed about about the scroll saw is sure causing me to shy away from going that route. I might fall back to buying a second BS that I can just keep a narrow blade on all of the time. Space is not problem in my large shop.
> 
> The 14" Grizzly is the one that I have had my eye on for about $500 plus freight. But it sure would just be a luxury not a need. I'm going to look closer at the jig saw after I get some feed back about the matter from other members.
> ...


The 14 inch Grizzly is the band saw I have. Flash back to 1983 (or thereabouts). I was cutting out craft stuff, specifically 3 1/2 inch letters out of 3/4 white pine that my wife would decorate and sell. I got the bright idea to buy a scroll saw. Back then, all I knew about was Sears, so I bought one. That lasted about 15 minutes. I hated every minute of it. It vibrated badly, broke blades and was the slowest cutting thing imaginable.

It was definitely not for me. I wound up giving it away. I bought a Craftsman 12 inch band saw and cut a lot of wood with that thing, even though I was limited to the 12 inch throat.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Herb,
> Is this the saw that you have?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Makita-VJ01W-12-volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless/dp/B009RNJO9O


Yes, that looks like it, I use only bosch or makita blades. I also have a craftsman scrolling corded jig saw and I have the same problem you have. I hear the Bosch jigsaws are very good too.

Jerry, a bandsaw will not cut the centers out of templates unless you cut your way into the center. 
I have a 14" bandsaw for my big saw and a craftsman 3 wheeler for my little one I use for making jigs and wacking off the end of a piece. Remember a 14" saw only gives you around 12" throat. The Grizzly is a nice saw, my cousin has one.

Back to making templates. you said for inlays .That means you need a saw to cut a hole.

Someone else will have to recommend a scrollsaw, there are good ones out there.I am sure.

Herb


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

O.K., right now the only question left for me to ask about is how tight will a "good" jig saw cut, which one to buy.

One of the projects that I am looking forward to is making "presentation boxes" for hand guns. There will be a piece of 3/4" material that lays in the bottom of the box with a cut out that is the shape of the firearm to lay in. This type of cut out does not require a real tight cut as the material being removed does not have to come out in one piece, but I do not want to cut into the cut out area if I can keep from doing so which nixes the use of a BS. 

From what I am getting in response to my question definitely points to a high end jig saw, so now it's a matter of which one to buy, the Bosch or the Makita and either one will work well I'm sure. I just need to do some reseach on both of them and hear from you guys that use them. I'm a bit pleasantly surprised that the cost of the cordless saws is not terribly high.

Keep telling me what you think, this has been a very helpful thread for me, thanks.

Jerry B.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

I just looked at both saws on Amazon, the Makita sells for $150 and comes with a battery. It's a 12V tool.

The Bosch is $20 more and it looks like it does not include a battery at that price, it's an 18V tool.

For my needs, the Makita has the edge due to the price and that it comes with a battery, am I missing something?

Jerry


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## Oakwerks (May 9, 2013)

I have a bandsaw, and a scrollsaw..... For doing small, fine cuts, a scrollsaw can't be beat...
Blades are very thin. Making intricate cuts very controllable.
My Dewalt is mounted on a kitchen cabinet, and I have a stool that brings the table surface just below eye level.... 
Besides..... Lets face it...YOU CAN'T HAVE TOO MANY TOOLS !!!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> Jump in fellas. What say you?


more than one band saw and scroll saw...
but this the production approach....


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

Jerry Bowen said:


> My question today is in reference to a scroll saw. I have a half inch blade on my BS that works well for 90 percent of my need to own a BS.
> 
> However, there are a few times that I need to install a 1/8th blade when I need to cut some curves such as making template for an inlays etc.
> 
> ...


i have both delta bs and hagner scroll saw, both have a different use , as we know bs will not get in the center of a piece of wood , must be a scroll saw, both will do the out side , i wouldn't be with out eather one, lot's of mfd of scroll saw's , most i wouldn't own , poor quality and blade's hard to change, i can change my blade in about 5 sec's, easy to change on the scroll saw ,of course scroll saw is slow, but band saw is fast for out side cutting , i use a 1/8"blade on my delta band saw and 1/2" also change is not that slow , i do a lot of resawing with the 1/2" blade and band saw box's with the 1/8" and 1/4" works for me


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

*Get a Scroll Saw*

As "Oak" says: You cant have too many tools. I have a Delta 28-203 band saw (every shop needs a band saw) and also a Delta 40-601 scroll saw. If you are only used to a band saw and have never used a scroll saw you will be amazed at how tight of a radius a good scroll saw will cut. You need a saw that will put a fair amount of tension on the blade. I used to have an old Delta 24" 40-440 jig saw and while it was a quality machine you were limited as to how much tension you could put on the blade. The newer scroll saws have better tensioning systems thus you can make tighter smoother cuts. I'm sure you could find a decent stationary scroll saw for a couple of hundred dollars, maybe even less that that on eBay or Craigslist.
Hank


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## kklowell (Dec 26, 2014)

Someday I'd love to try out a really good scroll saw. I've had two scrolls saws and sold them both quite quickly. THe first was a small Craftsman that had been my father's. It was noisy and slow, even on 1/4" ply. Aggravatingly slow.
The second was bigger and a bit faster, but not enough to be anything I could muster up enough patience to enjoy working with. It may also have been a Craftsman, and I think it was 14". 
Someday I'll give a big brand name saw a go.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

I have used Jig saws abusively for years. What makes a jig saw good?

I prefer a corded jig saw cause all the weight is under my hand. 

It cuts perpendicular. Good saws have good blade support

It will "Lock and hold" a bevel cut 

No mar base
VS Triggers and scroll handles are nice too 

I found the Porter cable to be a nice saw (gave it to my son just starting woodworking since I had an abused dewalt I took off my truck) Not sure whats on the market but will be shopping soon


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## Gerry Kiernan (Jul 19, 2007)

I have a 14 inch Delta band saw with a six inch riser block. It is excellent for all my heavier band saw work. I generally have a 3/4 inch 3 TPI blade, and I agree that changing blades can be a hassle. One day,some time ago, I spotted a three wheel 10 inch band saw by King, at the local thrift store. I bought it, kind of on spec, but have never regretted getting it. It is perfect for the smaller tighter cuts, and changing blades on it isn't too tough. I also own a scroll saw, but I very seldom use it. 

The scroll saw, as mentioned, is great, if you need to do a closed cut, but I don't have that need very often.

Gerry


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

*Jig saws*

I was at tool show many years ago. This guy demonstrated a jig saw that would cut chunks out of a 6x6 and when he set it running wide open it would sit on the edge of a table and not move. I have always wished I knew the brand of saw that was. Anyone have any ideas?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Jigsaw and a Bosch T101AO blade will cover a lot of items...

T-Shank Jig Saw Blades for Wood | Bosch Power Tools


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

I have not done any inlays, as of yet, but I'm thinking those would be made out of thin material. Which would be no problem with speed or accuracy on a scroll saw. I had a Hitachi scroll saw that worked damn near flawlessly. I cut out letters, to make a sign, out of 3/4 lumber. I don't think I broke one blade, and it went pretty quick. Unfortunilty, I think it probably helped kill my scroll saw (3/4 stock). The saw was about 7 or 8 years old, and it only cost me about 200 bucks, back when I bought it. But I used that sucker for everthing I could. I now own a Porter Cable, it's "O.K.", and although I paid almost the same for it now 250, it had nothing on the Hitachi. But Hitachi doesn't make scroll saws anymore, and I couldn't get parts for my old one. Anyway, like I said, if your inlays are made of thin material, 1/8th to say 1/4", I'd go with the scroll saw. If you ever had to get into a whole and cut, you can't do that with a BS. And I've used a good jig saw, and you just can't compare that to a good scroll saw. In my opinion. If you are going to use it a lot, spend the money and get a Dewalt. I wish I had!!


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Umm, I'm getting some good feed back on the scroll saw now, the only person that has mention breaking blades and being limited to this stock has been Herb, I'm wondering now if that is the experience of others or not. If it weren't for what Herb said about his experience, I'd still be in favor of the scroll saw. What Herb said scared me off and got me to thinking that the only good choice would be the jig saw, now I'm not so sure in light of some of the recent posts on the scroll saw. The issue of the scroll saw being slow does not bother me much right now, but slow is a relative term, can anybody be more specific to what "slow" means with a scroll saw?

Jerry B.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

I just got off of the phone with my neighbor, the one that bought the Grizzly Scroll saw for a couple of years ago as a gift.

For Christmas presents this year for some of his grand kids he made tool boxes with tools in them. The tools were all made out of 3/4" walnut and he had no problems with cutting them out with the saw. He told me that the only problem that I would have with that saw is changing the blades as I might not be able to see well enough but I think that with my magnifying visor that I can do it. I'm going to go try his saw and make my decision after that. He seems to be very happy with it.

Herb, I told my neighbor about what you said about breaking blades and he is of the opiion that you had the tension to tight on the blade, does that sound possible to you? He said that he has never broken a blade but has had to change them when they got dull.

Jerry B.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

All,

Just my two cents...A decent scroll saw is worth its weight in gold. I don't use mine that often on non-scroll saw work (general woodworking) but it has saved my butt a couple of times on projects. It is much more versatile that the best jig saw (which I wouldn't be without either).

I have an older 20" Delta (DeWalt) that I picked up at a yard sale, from a scroller that was moving to Panama. I paid 20% of what it was new and got a bunch of wood clamps to boot.

A good quality SS will not vibrate. If it does then it needs to go back and get exchanged or serviced. The man who got me into scrolling owns several. He tears them apart yearly to service and lube the bearings. He does craft shows, so they get used more then the average woodworker's normally do. It is not that hard to do this and the parts are easy and cheap to get.

Most people break blades because they either don't get enough tension on the blade, or try to cut way too fast. (the thicker the piece, the faster the speed and the slower the feed...rule of thumb). Like a band saw you have to let the sawdust get carried off by the blade. Same with the BS, right? A scroll saw is a mini band saw!

I have a magnified task light attached to mine. It helps greatly as my eyes are not the best anymore. My astigmatism forced me to stop shooting rifle competition and now,as I get older, blurs my sight on labor intensive work. The magnifier light is a great aide.

Most woodworking folks consider a SS as an extraneous piece of equipment, but like all machines they are so much more versatile then people know. Once you have one, you find things to do with it. An example, I would love to own a small lathe, but I can't justify the price. If I had one I would be wearing it out finding new things to do with it. The same hold true with a SS.

I'm attaching a photo of a one hour project that I did for my neighbors, grand baby's first birthday. All done on a scroll saw. It could have been done with a jig saw (except for the tail) but I was able to get finer cuts and less sanding on the SS.

Bill


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

I just read the reviews on the Grizzly SS and they were terrible. Maybe my neighbor friend said what he said due to my giving the saw to him as a gift.

Does anybody out there have anything to say one way or another about the saw, it is the two hundred dollar model, maybe GO536, now sure of that as I type this.

The only SS that seems to be any good is the Dewalt 788 for over $500, any comments.

By the way Bill, thanks for the very good and informative post.

Jerry B.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Jerry Bowen said:


> I just read the reviews on the Grizzly SS and they were terrible. Maybe my neighbor friend said what he said due to my giving the saw to him as a gift.
> 
> Does anybody out there have anything to say one way or another about the saw, it is the two hundred dollar model, maybe GO536, now sure of that as I type this.
> 
> ...


Jerry, 

My Delta is the same as the Dewalt 20". $125 vs $549 new. Keep your eyes open and check for sale locations; newspaper, Penny saver, Craig's list, yard sales, etc. Check the local woodworking supply shops/suppliers. They may have used or trade-ins for sale. They may know someone who does, but you have to ask! 

Used ones can be had for a very reasonable price. Again, they are not that hard to service and cheap to do so.

Bill


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Jerry...a different approach re: jig saw...

I purchased a jig saw...with the same specs mentioned in an earlier reply and with the additional consideration of needing to be comfortable to my hand. I looked at a bunch of them, inexpensive and costly, and finally decided on one that felt good to me...brand doesn't matter. I also decided that I would not purchase a scroll saw as I would not use it often enough and I don't have a lot of room. Scroll saw would need a surface or stand, etc...

I finally decided to kill two birds with one stone...buy the jig saw and also mount it under a table when I needed to scroll...best of both worlds.

If I'm not mistaken, blades can be had down to 1/8". The caution is that since the blade will only be captured on one side deflection is a consideration.

I needed a good orbital action jig to replace my old one so I'm going to try this soon as I need the scrolling action...plenty of youtube's on doing this...

...just a thought...

Nick


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Jerry...a different approach re: jig saw...
> 
> I purchased a jig saw...with the same specs mentioned in an earlier reply and with the additional consideration of needing to be comfortable to my hand. I looked at a bunch of them, inexpensive and costly, and finally decided on one that felt good to me...brand doesn't matter. I also decided that I would not purchase a scroll saw as I would not use it often enough and I don't have a lot of room. Scroll saw would need a surface or stand, etc...
> 
> ...



Very good advice from Nick. If you don't have to do intricate curves or tight spaces, then this is certainly a very good alternative for occasional use. You just have to decide how tight of an area you need to reach (saw). 

Bill


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

schnewj said:


> All,
> 
> Just my two cents...A decent scroll saw is worth its weight in gold. I don't use mine that often on non-scroll saw work (general woodworking) but it has saved my butt a couple of times on projects. It is much more versatile that the best jig saw (which I wouldn't be without either).
> 
> ...


Good post Bill,
I am not a patient type of guy when it comes to tools. If they work and cut and at a reasonable speed,I am fine with them. But if I have problems with them, I don't use them. I have tried to adjust the tension to less,then I bend the blades. I adjust the speed to where the saw is running smooth and not vibrating to make the cuts. Maybe I am cutting too hard of wood, It will cut plywood OK and cedar and pine , But hardwoods are a different story, and I don't use many soft woods for my projects. 

Good looking grandson and piggy.

Jerry I didn't mean to scare you away from SS. You might have more patients than I do. I have a 18" Hegner I will give to you, you pay the shipping ( from 98002) plus a bunch of blades.
The project you mentioned would be a good bandsaw box project with an 1/8' blade.

Herb


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Good post Bill,
> I am not a patient type of guy when it comes to tools. If they work and cut and at a reasonable speed,I am fine with them. But if I have problems with them, I don't use them. I have tried to adjust the tension to less,then I bend the blades. I adjust the speed to where the saw is running smooth and not vibrating to make the cuts. Maybe I am cutting too hard of wood, It will cut plywood OK and cedar and pine , But hardwoods are a different story, and I don't use many soft woods for my projects.
> 
> Good looking grandson and piggy.
> ...


Herb,

Loose blades are a receipt for disaster. Tighten them until they ping when you pluck them with your finger. I believe it was once described to me as a high C note. I'm tone deaf though. I couldn't carry a tune in a paper bag. 

Blade choice has a lot to do with how they cut in different types of wood. I prefer a reverse tooth blade for solid woods. Again, the main thing is to allow time for the blade to carry away the saw dust. If you don't they overheat and snap. Another thing is, to make sure that the teeth are cutting on the down stroke. Blade direction is very important.

Jerry, 

If Herb is offering you a 18" Hegner, I'm jealous. Hegners are top of the line and 18" is plenty of throat to work with. Even if it needs work for the cost of shipping it would be worth it.

Bill


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

For those of you who are interested...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

schnewj said:


> Herb,
> 
> Loose blades are a receipt for disaster. Tighten them until they ping when you pluck them with your finger. I believe it was once described to me as a high C note. I'm tone deaf though. I couldn't carry a tune in a paper bag.
> 
> ...


Jerry I didn't mean to scare you away from SS. You might have more patients than I do. I have a 18" Hegner I will give to you, you pay the shipping ( from 98002) plus a bunch of blades.
The project you mentioned would be a good bandsaw box project with an 1/8' blade.

Herb

I was offering you, Jerry. PM me if you are interested.


Bill thanks for the advise, I probably don't use the scroll saw enough to get the hang of it. I have tried the "Twang" tensioning and that doesn't help,breaks the blades. I have lots of different style blades, is that the one tooth up and one tooth down blade?
Herb


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

I have a Craftsman jig saw (labeled a scroll saw) where the blade can be unlocked and it then can swivel in the direction of the cut. It is OLD, and I can't find blades for it anymore. I had some scroll saw blades for it that cut on the up and down strokes and gave a very smooth finish where very little sanding was needed. The back of the blade was also narrower than the teeth so that tighter turns could be made.

I also have an inexpensive 16" scroll saw and a band saw.

The 16" scroll saw is good in some instances but I find it uncomfortable to use. I have not used it much and I have never broken a blade even cutting 3/4" oak. I find that it is noisy and bounces a lot at certain speeds. And for intricate patterns it is a pain in the behind to keep taking the saw blade out and feeding through a drilled hole. But you do have to remember that as the thickness increases, you feed rate should decrease. It is also slower going with the grain.

I do as much as I can on my small band saw. Sometimes it is even advantageous to cut a piece of wood in half (with the grain), make my inside cuts using the band saw, then gluing the halves back together where the seam should be unnoticeable.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Herb Stoops said:


> Jerry I didn't mean to scare you away from SS. You might have more patients than I do. I have a 18" Hegner I will give to you, you pay the shipping ( from 98002) plus a bunch of blades.
> The project you mentioned would be a good bandsaw box project with an 1/8' blade.
> 
> Herb
> ...



Herb,
I'm not into committing Grand Larceny but I'm willing to try it one time. My gosh Herb, I looked on line athe price for the saw, if it's the you are talking about is over $1,500. I attempted to PM you but when I click on "contact" nothing come up so until I get some information on that I can't do the PM, but if will reseach the shipping charges, let me know and check will be in the mail. After the check clears you can send it to me. Why would I say no. If you are serious, and you must be, I would be foolish to pass the offer up. Thank you so much.

Jerry B.

I found the information Herb and send you the PM.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

WOW.... a most gracious offer Herb!!!! very cool:dirol:


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Herb,
> I'm not into committing Grand Larceny but I'm willing to try it one time. My gosh Herb, I looked on line athe price for the saw, if it's the you are talking about is over $1,500. I attempted to PM you but when I click on "contact" nothing come up so until I get some information on that I can't do the PM, but if will reseach the shipping charges, let me know and check will be in the mail. After the check clears you can send it to me. Why would I say no. If you are serious, and you must be, I would be foolish to pass the offer up. Thank you so much.
> 
> Jerry B.
> ...


Jerry,

Look at the two charts (PDFs) that I posted. They give a pretty good explanation of the different saw blade types and what is best to use for the type of sawing that you will be doing.

I can only guess that you are: not putting enough tension on the blades, forcing the cut (this can heat the blade and cause them to snap) or they are not good quality blades.

I keep a variety of blades handy. Crown tooth, skip tooth, reverse tooth and spiral. All in a span of TPIs (tooth per inch). *Good quality*blades are cheap if you buy them on-line by the gross. Trust me you will end up using them. You won't find the best quality blades at Sears or the big box stores. Look for good quality brands like Flying Dutchman. Many of the scrolling sites sell blades along with their patterns. If you would like some links PM me.

It is important to use a sharp blade. Trust me, when you are doing intricate cuts the last thing you want is a dull blade. I have tried to push a blade and ended up ruining the project and having to start all over, again. Frustrating!

I am far from being an expert, but if I can help don't hesitate to ask.

Bill


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I don't use my bandsaw a lot. Straight cuts are made on the table saw. Rough cutouts are made with a handheld sabre saw. Curved cuts with the scroll saw, which is pretty good at following the line, and easy enough to sand to the line just in case. I do not make curves less than 1/2", but only because almost everything I cut is for my masters/patterns, and I use a 1/2" bit on all of them - and if I use a smaller bit than 1/2" the final product still comes out just as if I had used the 12". Also I get inexpensive blade, with coarse teeth, and have no problem cutting 1/2", 3/4", or two pieces of 1/2" plywood glued together. Don't push the wood too fast and have few problems with blades breaking.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

schnewj said:


> Jerry,
> 
> Look at the two charts (PDFs) that I posted. They give a pretty good explanation of the different saw blade types and what is best to use for the type of sawing that you will be doing.
> 
> ...


Bill,
You may not consider yourself to be an expert, but it sure like you have a lot of valuable experience and your willingness to help really means a lot to me. I'll probably be in touch with you on a regular basis after I get the saw and start using it.

I read a review on the saw, the list of pros was lengthy, the Cons, not so much, to comments, first, think about the expense as it a huge investment, second, the blade might rattle if it is not tensioned properly. 

I feel like I just won the lottery. Herb, do I sound excited?

Jerry


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Bill,
> You may not consider yourself to be an expert, but it sure like you have a lot of valuable experience and your willingness to help really means a lot to me. I'll probably be in touch with you on a regular basis after I get the saw and start using it.
> 
> I read a review on the saw, the list of pros was lengthy, the Cons, not so much, to comments, first, think about the expense as it a huge investment, second, the blade might rattle if it is not tensioned properly.
> ...


Jerry, 

First piece of advise. I know you have vision problems. I can sympathize. My 94 year old mother is almost blind and it is so frustrating for her. Get a magnifying task light, preferably LED. I have one mounted directly on the saw but I am not happy with it. Mount it so it is isolated from the saw. Using a scroll saw can be tedious. It will help in the long run.

I know that your original post was not actually related to scrolling work. However, when you get one you will start doing actual scroll projects (it's addictive). Like my earlier analogy about me getting a lathe. I can't justify the price, but if I had one look out! Hmm! chisel and file handles, knobs, spindles.............

When you are ready, I'm here. I'm sure that some of the other scrollers will be, also.

Bill


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

schnewj said:


> Jerry,
> 
> First piece of advise. I know you have vision problems. I can sympathize. My 94 year old mother is almost blind and it is so frustrating for her. Get a magnifying task light, preferably LED. I have one mounted directly on the saw but I am not happy with it. Mount it so it is isolated from the saw. Using a scroll saw can be tedious. It will help in the long run.
> 
> ...


Bill,
It's always so hard for people to understand my vision issue, it is not like almost all other vision problems. My problem is two fold, the main problem is that I am so light sensitive, the other has developed since I had the lazic surgery which has cost me my close vision. I use a visor with magnifying lens that allows me to see much better, but I still have trouble following a line with the BS. If I go slow and just be very careful I get by, I think that practice will help and if I can't handle it, well, I'll teach Vesta, whe can see like a hawk and she needs to get involved in my work anyway.

I usually find work arounds and have gotten by with most of what I have attempted.

Jerry


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Bill,
> It's always so hard for people to understand my vision issue, it is not like almost all other vision problems. My problem is two fold, the main problem is that I am so light sensitive, the other has developed since I had the lazic surgery which has cost me my close vision. I use a visor with magnifying lens that allows me to see much better, but I still have trouble following a line with the BS. If I go slow and just be very careful I get by, I think that practice will help and if I can't handle it, well, I'll teach Vesta, whe can see like a hawk and she needs to get involved in my work anyway.
> 
> I usually find work arounds and have gotten by with most of what I have attempted.
> ...


Be careful, Jerry. If you get your wife involved in using the scroll saw she may just take it over. A lot of the scrollers at craft fairs are females. I guess it appeals to the crafting side of some people.


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## UlrichJ (Feb 16, 2012)

Jerry, the cut with a scrollsaw is very smooth compared to a bandsaw. I have never scrolled real hard wood. The hardest I have done is 2" Poplar and had no problem. You can get a gross of Flying Dutchman blades online for around $29. This is a lot cheaper than breaking a bandsaw blade. There are some YouTube videos on scrolling that would be helpful to watch.


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## UlrichJ (Feb 16, 2012)

Jerry, I don't recall reading the type of material you plan to cut. If you are cutting foam, there is a hot wire cutter for this at Woodcraft. People use this to cut the outline of tools or guns in projects.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

UlrichJ said:


> Jerry, I don't recall reading the type of material you plan to cut. If you are cutting foam, there is a hot wire cutter for this at Woodcraft. People use this to cut the outline of tools or guns in projects.


John,

For the most part I will be cutting hardwood as I see it now, but things sure can change. The wire for foam would be a great tool, I had never thought about it.

Jerry


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

Jerry, i have a Grizzly 14" BS and a PC scroll saw. I use them for different purposes. You didn't mention the thickness of the wood you work with. If you're going much over 3/4" of hardwood, a scroll saw may struggle and you may end up breaking blades. The blades are cheap and easy to change but breaks can mess up your work piece. If you do decide on a scroll saw, don't buy a cheap one. I've gone through a couple of them that I got on sale at the big box stores in the under $200 range. If I have to buy another one it would be a Dewalt or Excalibur. They're not inexpensive but a world of difference from cheap ones. Depends on how much you intend to use it and how deep your pockets are. 

I also have a very old jig saw. Piece of junk. When I decide to replace it I'll probably go with a Bosch.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Barry747 said:


> Jerry, i have a Grizzly 14" BS and a PC scroll saw. I use them for different purposes. You didn't mention the thickness of the wood you work with. If you're going much over 3/4" of hardwood, a scroll saw may struggle and you may end up breaking blades. The blades are cheap and easy to change but breaks can mess up your work piece. If you do decide on a scroll saw, don't buy a cheap one. I've gone through a couple of them that I got on sale at the big box stores in the under $200 range. If I have to buy another one it would be a Dewalt or Excalibur. They're not inexpensive but a world of difference from cheap ones. Depends on how much you intend to use it and how deep your pockets are.
> 
> I also have a very old jig saw. Piece of junk. When I decide to replace it I'll probably go with a Bosch.


Barry,
Thanks for the head up on the material limitations, I have everything to learn about scrolling it is going to be whole new adventure for me.

Jerry


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Of course, Jerry, you could always go "high-tech Neanderthal" and buy yourself a coping saw (or if you are feeling wealthy a Knew coping saw) with some Pégas blades, or make yourself a 12in bowsaw with Gramercy blades. I have an old Eclipse coping saw frame with Pégas blades for thin stuff and an antique Nurse 12in bow saw which has recently been updated to use the Gramercy blades for thicker stuff. No power required and the exercise does me good! They are also easier to carry around than a scroll saw

Regards

Phil


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

Jerry I have a scroll saw, and want a band saw. I like my scroll to do the intricate cuts that can't be done on a band saw. If it's for small cuts, to get a scroll saw (even second hand, but would try for a Delta-I loved mine, and still miss it, although I have the Excalibur) isn't unreasonable.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

schnewj said:


> Jerry,
> 
> First piece of advise. I know you have vision problems. I can sympathize. My 94 year old mother is almost blind and it is so frustrating for her. Get a magnifying task light, preferably LED. I have one mounted directly on the saw but I am not happy with it. Mount it so it is isolated from the saw. Using a scroll saw can be tedious. It will help in the long run.
> 
> ...


Bill,
I have, as I've said before, a very good visor that I wear with magnifying lens, and it's pretty much the salvation for my vision issue, then when I'm able to cut the bright light or reflection from a white surface down I'm able to get by. I'm used to having to do things like this and work and iive within my limits.

Your willingness to be of so much help is welcome and I'm very thankful to you for that. The saw will be here in a few days from now.'

Jerry


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