# finger joint bit for edge to edge



## atmartin23 (Aug 31, 2009)

Need some help

I am planning out a bed frame for a king size bed. I'm currently planning on using 5/4 white oak. The oak comes in random lengths and widths but for the most part they are approximately 8 foot by 6 inches. My side rails are 18 inches wide. I have an adjustable finger joint bit i got on Rockler. However, i've read that finger joints are mostly used for end to end not edge to edge. Is there a better joint to use for edge to edge? Perhaps use a doweling jig instead?

thanks

Andrew

"The funny thing about experience. She gives the tests first and the lessons come after."


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

atmartin23 said:


> Need some help
> 
> I am planning out a bed frame for a king size bed. I'm currently planning on using 5/4 white oak. The oak comes in random lengths and widths but for the most part they are approximately 8 foot by 6 inches. My side rails are 18 inches wide. I have an adjustable finger joint bit i got on Rockler. However, i've read that finger joints are mostly used for end to end not edge to edge. Is there a better joint to use for edge to edge? Perhaps use a doweling jig instead?
> 
> ...



Greetings Andrew and welcome to the router forum.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

atmartin23 said:


> Need some help
> 
> I am planning out a bed frame for a king size bed. I'm currently planning on using 5/4 white oak. The oak comes in random lengths and widths but for the most part they are approximately 8 foot by 6 inches. My side rails are 18 inches wide. I have an adjustable finger joint bit i got on Rockler. However, i've read that finger joints are mostly used for end to end not edge to edge. Is there a better joint to use for edge to edge? Perhaps use a doweling jig instead?
> 
> ...


Hi Andrew, welcome to the forum.
Quite a project. Finger joint bit should work but might get a little dicey assembling all the little fingers along the length of a king size bedframe, especially with the amount of assembly time a lot of these new glues give you.. Don't know why the old reliable tongue and groove wouldn't work. With 5/4 stock may have to do some finagling to get it right. Maybe a little off the wall but a lock mitre can be used for edge joining also with little or no seam showing. 
I'm sure there will be a lot of other suggestions chiming in so stay tuned:laugh:.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Andrew

I would suggest using the T & G joints, they cut 7/16" deep the norm,and they plane the stock at the same time  it's best to joint one edge b/4 using the bit set..it's very strong and almost self lining so to speak unlike the dowels that I hate  if you get one off just a little bit and it's hammer time. 

I recommend the matching set, that's to say both bits are set to cut the same height ,without moving the router up or down when you switch the cutters/bits out...doing that way you will not need to get the hand planer out or the sander out to get it flat and true,,, 

It's a small trick how to setup your router to do that,it's very small trick but it works every time.
I will stop at that this point but please just ask if you want to know the trick 


http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-1-2-Shank-...ash=item1e5830e326&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262


For wide stock, match set .. 
http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-1-2-SH-V-J...ash=item20ad0e7ee6&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.com/11pc-1-2-Shank-...ash=item1e582f197d&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262

For wide stock
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_tongue_groove.html

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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Andrew
> 
> I would suggest using the T & G joints, they cut 7/16" deep the norm,and they plane the stock at the same time  it's best to joint one edge b/4 using the bit set..it's very strong and almost self lining so to speak unlike the dowels that I hate  if you get one off just a little bit and it's hammer time.
> 
> ...


Nice call on this set Bob. I have his 2 piece set and I knew that wouldn't fly on 5/4 stock. Got this set on my list.:sold:


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the RouterForums Drew.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Thanks 

It's neat set, it's the only set that I know about that comes with a 3/8" cutter ( T & G SET ) 

I have two set because I forget I had one set already  LOL can't have to many router bits  and CRS will take over from time to time 


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jschaben said:


> Nice call on this set Bob. I have his 2 piece set and I knew that wouldn't fly on 5/4 stock. Got this set on my list.:sold:


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I just butt the edges together and clamp it. The glue is stronger than the wood, so edge to edge works well.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

A scarfe joint would be good and strong. This joint is used in on guitar necks. A jig can be set up to route the slope after bandsawing the waste.


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

atmartin23 said:


> Need some help
> 
> However, i've read that finger joints are mostly used for end to end not edge to edge. Is there a better joint to use for edge to edge? Perhaps use a doweling jig instead?
> QUOTE]
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I had to look that one up 

YouTube - How to Cut A Scarf Joint in Crown Molding and Coving
Making a Scarf Joint | Free How-To Videos - Watch How-To Videos Online | Veoh
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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Hi Drew and weclome to the forums.

If it is just two boards and the seam will not be subjected to stress, I would just do a edge to edge glue up like Mike suggests. For a beefier build or a larger panel I would use a biscuit jointer...along the lines of what Harry suggested. A good biscuit jointer will not cost more than a couple of good router bits and it gets the job done quickly and accurately. The mortises cut by the jointer give some lateral play so you can get things where you want before tightening up the clamps, while keeping the panels flat and aligned. You can also cut the mortises for biscuits on the router table with a slot cutter.


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## atmartin23 (Aug 31, 2009)

I really like the 11 piece T&G set in one of Bob's links. How is the quality of these bits? Only problem is that set only goes up to 1 1/8 stock using 3/8 T&G. I don't have a T&G set and the MLCS seem a bit pricey for the set capable of 5/4 stock.

Maybe this is a stupid question but i'll ask anyway. Isn't a finger joint just a series of T&G joints. The finger joint bit i currently have is item number 61886 from Rockler (sorry i can't post links yet).

Thanks for the input guys!
Andrew


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Andrew

The finger joint should be used on the end grain of stock the norm..or use a box joint bit like below,many ways to skin the cat..

The set from eBay can be push to 4/5 stock easy,,just stack the cutters up and put the 3/8" in the center or the ends/top 

I like the set ,but that's just my 2 cents 

ON SALE! - Adjustable Finger Joint Router Bit - Rockler Woodworking Tools

C1682 Adj. Finger Joint Bit w/ Bearing Guide, 1/2" Shank


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atmartin23 said:


> I really like the 11 piece T&G set in one of Bob's links. How is the quality of these bits? Only problem is that set only goes up to 1 1/8 stock using 3/8 T&G. I don't have a T&G set and the MLCS seem a bit pricey for the set capable of 5/4 stock.
> 
> Maybe this is a stupid question but i'll ask anyway. Isn't a finger joint just a series of T&G joints. The finger joint bit i currently have is item number 61886 from Rockler (sorry i can't post links yet).
> 
> ...


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

I think there is confusion here about what is being glued. As I see the original question it was gluing edge to edge NOT end to end. You would never use a finger joint or scarf joint for that application (edge to edge). I would just glue the edges together. You can use things for alignment, like splines or biscuits, but they won't make it stronger. 

~Julie~


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## atmartin23 (Aug 31, 2009)

for some clarification...i would be running this joint the 8 foot length of the board. the plan is to take 3 pieces of 8'x6"x5/4" and make it 1 piece 8'x18"x5/4" (i understand that if i use a finger joint or T&G that it wont be 18 wide). The bed is called Baron bed; you can google image it. I scaled the picture by the few dimensions given. the side rails are 18" where it meets the posts and 12" in the center due to the large radius. I believe everyone understands what im doing. and the T&G sounds like the best path forward.

I thought about the floating tongue idea. I like it but it sounds like there is more room for error with that method.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Drew,

After some reflection and a bit more understanding of what you are doing, I would have to concur...the T & G is going to be the strongest joint. In a way it is like a mortise and tenon that runs the entire length and would provide more surface area for glue than a simple butt joint. 

If you can't find a suitable T&G bit: It might take a little longer, but you could cut the the grooves wit a slot cutter, and the tongues with a straight or rabbit bit on the router table. I would cut the grooves first and then custom fit the tongues to get a snug fit.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Drew,
I have also used this set to edge to edge 2x4 (1-1/2 x 3 1/2") stock. Run one edge, flip the stock over and run it again. Becomes a reversible glue joint with two tongue/groove profiles per edge. Could probably finagle it for 5/4.

2pc 1/2" Shank Wedge Tongue & Groove Router Bit Set - eBay (item 130328665556 end time Sep-09-09 15:48:03 PDT)


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

If you have 6" wide boards and need to make an 18" wide piece, you will need more than three pieces of 6" wide board edge to edge IF you are using tongue and groove. 3 x 6" = 18" ONLY if you do not remove wood from the width to make a tongue. If you need to keep each piece at 6" then you either just glue, or use a spline or some type of biscuits or dowels.

~Julie~


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Loose tongue and groove. Route a 1/2" deep stopped groove along each edge, stopping 1" from each end. Insert a strip of plywood of suitable width into the groove. Glue the job up, clamp, scrape smooth when dry. Maximum width, no waste. This is how I glue up work bench tops.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Why not put the spline in place all at one time with the T & G set,,,,buss off the ends ( 1 1/2" long) of the tongue boards with a trim bit (small hand router) on one of the boards,same as Mike ,short stop on the grove boards,pop the glue in and clamp you have it done..your spline is always just right and dead on . 

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