# Looking for bathroom vanity plan



## fire angel (Feb 20, 2008)

I am looking for a plan for a bathroom vanity. I am finishing the basement and want a plan for the bathroom vanity. I want to make it out of hickory and want kind of a rustic look. It will have a vessel sink on top of it. I was thinking of kind of a shaker style.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi fire angel

So so so many bathroom vanitys I suggest you take your cam./phone to HD/Lowers and find one you like and take some snapshots and write down the sizes..

Most bathroom vanity are not much more than a box without back to speak about,just some 1/4" plywood the norm, just a box with a face frame the norm..
The doors and drawers face plates will give it the look you want ...

===========


fire angel said:


> I am looking for a plan for a bathroom vanity. I am finishing the basement and want a plan for the bathroom vanity. I want to make it out of hickory and want kind of a rustic look. It will have a vessel sink on top of it. I was thinking of kind of a shaker style.


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Bob & Rick R. did one in series 2 of their DVD series. Episodes 209-213. Sweet looking vanity. Otherwise do as Bj suggested, take some snapshots at HD/Lowes.


----------



## dlpfan40 (May 10, 2008)

here is a vanity i made from white wood oak stain and poly. I did not have a plan built to fit and cut down mirror that was on the wall. used rabbit bit to square back of door for mirror. maybe this could give you something to go on. have fun bill. ps here is another vanity that i made and painted white oil base.


----------



## ChiefTT (Nov 21, 2008)

*Chief*

I am also looking for plans and techniques for a curved front vanity that is Victorian/Queen Anne'sh style.

I am leaning toward oak veneer over a frame and of course doors/drawer fronts would be 3/4" with the same veneer.

God, Country, Corps. Life is as simple as you make it.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Chief

You may want to check out the links below with some luck you may find one you like 

http://www.absolutelyfreeplans.com/HOW TO AND INFO/how_to_and_info.htm
http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/6011-absolutely-free-plans.html
http://pagead2.googlesyndication.co...Saw&kw4=Woodworking+Crafts&okw=Woodwork+Plans

=========




ChiefTT said:


> I am also looking for plans and techniques for a curved front vanity that is Victorian/Queen Anne'sh style.
> 
> I am leaning toward oak veneer over a frame and of course doors/drawer fronts would be 3/4" with the same veneer.
> 
> God, Country, Corps. Life is as simple as you make it.


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

fire angel said:


> I am looking for a plan for a bathroom vanity. I am finishing the basement and want a plan for the bathroom vanity. I want to make it out of hickory and want kind of a rustic look. It will have a vessel sink on top of it. I was thinking of kind of a shaker style.


Here is what I put in my bathroom and sounds like it may be similar to what your after.

If you like it just message me and I can send you plan drawing complete with a cut list I made up.


----------



## ytse (Oct 30, 2009)

TRN, I must congratulate you, your looks absolutely fantastic!


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

ytse said:


> TRN, I must congratulate you, your looks absolutely fantastic!


Thanks very much I really enjoy using it. It fits the bill nicely and it wasn't to costly to make either.


----------



## fdx123 (Nov 11, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Here is what I put in my bathroom and sounds like it may be similar to what your after.
> 
> If you like it just message me and I can send you plan drawing complete with a cut list I made up.


Could I have a copy of your plans for the bathroom vanity? Thank you so much.

I do not know how this system works but my outside email is [email protected]

If you send the plans to that email, I can get them.

Again, thank you.

bill


----------



## erdrd (Feb 20, 2010)

*Very nice work*



TRN_Diesel said:


> Here is what I put in my bathroom and sounds like it may be similar to what your after.
> 
> If you like it just message me and I can send you plan drawing complete with a cut list I made up.


Hi, I'm new to this site. I would definitely appreciate your drawing and cut list when you have the time.
[email protected]
Cheers,


----------



## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Hello Lisa. Welcome to the RouterForums. It's a pleasure to have you join us.


----------



## CarpenterBug (Jan 19, 2011)

excellent forum and folks.


----------



## Créations Caco (Dec 22, 2012)

*Vanity*

Dan, I really like the vanity that you made, is it possible to buy the plan and cut off list from you.
Merci
Jacques






TRN_Diesel said:


> Thanks very much I really enjoy using it. It fits the bill nicely and it wasn't to costly to make either.


----------



## redddog (Apr 17, 2013)

Exactly what I was looking to do as well. 

Too late for cut list? 

Thanks either way!


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Send me a PM I will email them to you.


----------



## redddog (Apr 17, 2013)

Thanks so much, man!

I've got some work to do with my post count before I can PM you. I'll send it once I'm good to go. 

Thanks again!


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Here are the files.


----------



## redddog (Apr 17, 2013)

Awesome! Thanks so much!


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

redddog said:


> Awesome! Thanks so much!



No worries enjoy and good luck with the build.

NOte the cabinet is 24" deep and 29" wide with a bank of 12" drawers .


----------



## cbeats (Jan 16, 2013)

I'm also starting to design a vanity but I have a question to those who read this.
I am planning on doing a column of drawers on each side, then 2 doors in the middle (I think that makes sense  )

Am I better off making 3 separate cabinets/boxes or 1 big cabinet/box?


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I would recommend making three separate boxes. I assume you mean a bank of drawers on either side of the main larger box in which the sink will be installed.

I work by mylelf often and it is much easier to lift a smaller box compared to a large one. You can handle the smaller ones easier.


----------



## cbeats (Jan 16, 2013)

Alright thanks for the info! It makes sense now that i think about it.
Any thoughts of using either 5/8" or 3/4" for the case?


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I used 3/4 for the cases. I also used 3/4 for the drawer fronts and used maple hardwood to edge the drawer fronts. You can either build a face frame or do the same for the cabinets. I built a ripping jig to rip 3/16 thick pieces into 3/4 strips and then just cut them to size and glue them onto the front of the cabinet. I use a block plane to make then flush to the cabinet. I rip the width 1/32 proud to allow for an easy fit and then fine tune it with a block plane. The other option to to make face frames 3/4" and then attach the face frame to the cabinet using biscuits so you do not have any pin holes created by the brad nailer.

I always use Baltic birch plywood 1/2" thick for my drawers along with 75 lb Slides (Full Extension).


----------



## cbeats (Jan 16, 2013)

I may have started planning it in a bad way. But so far I started to sketch the front of it and found measurements for the doors and drawer fronts to make up the opening given. I am planning on making a face frame though. I had a co-op work term at a cabinet shop (I'm 19 years old) and I remember some of the ways they did it, so that's why I'm going to do the face frame with biscuits.
The main thing I have to do now is somehow figure out the size of the openings (then make a cut list). I feel like I started the sketch up from the wrong point of view but going to try to make it work haha. 

Ps. Sorry if that's confusing


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Have you tried Google Sketchup? I have taken the time to learn this free drawing tool and it makes things a lot easier when your in the designing stage. 

When I built my cabinet I first found out the outside box measurements to fit in the opening. Next I figured out the drawer heights based on functionality. (i.e., I wanted a drawer tall enough to hold my shampoo and mouth wash bottles) 
For the door cabinets I decided to use two doors rather than one.
The drawer box size will be determined by your method of opening them. If you decide on sliders 75 lbs with ball bearings you just have to subtract 1" from the box outside dimension. Remember to account for the clearance on top for the height. I generally go 1" less.

Remember there is no absolute way to do something. What matters is the end result and what you find the easiest way to do something.

How do you plan on making the drawers? Box joint, dovetail or locking dado cut on the table saw?

Good luck with you project it will be well worth the effort.


----------



## cbeats (Jan 16, 2013)

I think for this project I am going to stick with pencil and paper (we will see how it turns out) because when I go back to school in 2 weeks, I'll have the computer programs I need.
I think for the drawers, I will either do dados or box, I wont know till I get to that part  
Also, I'm planning on doing a face frame, am I better off making one big face frame? Or separate ones?

Thanks for the tips by the way!


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

It may be quicker and easier to build all three boxes and once they are attached to each other you can then measure it and build the fame frame to cover the entire assembly.

I purchased the Kreg pocket hole jig and found it to be extremely easy to use and very fast. If you do not have one then you can attached the rails and stiles with biscuits. The nice thing about the Kreg system is you can take it apart if needed opposed to glued biscuit joints.

If you read through my posts I posted how I built my drawers using mdf pieces as spacers and did not need a measuring tape. The technique I used was shown in Wood Magazine. WOOD Magazine - Build Super Simple Drawers Preview - YouTube


----------



## cbeats (Jan 16, 2013)

I have come across a little question.
Should i attach a filler on each side, instead of attempting to fit the cases in perfectly?


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Yes that is a great idea. Use a compass and pencil and and scribe a line to get the exact width your looking for. The other option is to fit it with a hand plane if your using solid stock opposed to Melamine.


----------

