# Sealing a cutting board



## Router Newbie (Jun 12, 2011)

I have just made four cutting boards from 40mm thick white beech. After sanding to a smooth finish, I wiped boards down with water to remove sanding dust and found that the grain seemed to lift giving sharp edges that are sure to cause splinters. Can I seal this wood with something to prevent this happening? Bear in mind that these will be used to cut food on, meat, bread etc so I am hesitating over what to use. Any advise would be appreciated.


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

I have never made a cutting board but Fine Woodworking suggest mineral oil or walnut oil as a safe finish. Walnut oil will dry after a day or so whereas mineral oil will always be a bit oily. The mineral oil selected must be safe for food prep.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

You want a oil base item,it will bead the water off the board but take care some of the items will go rancid is sort order,,and become a Bacterial Haven ,try some baby oil it works well..

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denniswoody said:


> I have never made a cutting board but Fine Woodworking suggest mineral oil or walnut oil as a safe finish. Walnut oil will dry after a day or so whereas mineral oil will always be a bit oily. The mineral oil selected must be safe for food prep.


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## Router Newbie (Jun 12, 2011)

Thanks Bob. Is baby oil safe for food preparation? Does it dry or remain oily?


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## Router Newbie (Jun 12, 2011)

Thanks for replying Dennis. Where does one buy walnut oil? I see it can be used in salads and food preparation, does this mean a food store, or is there a grade for use with wood which may be sold by a paint outlet or timber yard?


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Pharmaceutical grade mineral oil is what you want. You can ingest a little without any side effects.
It could be that baby oil is the same, seeing as it's for babies.
Vegetable and nut oils tend to go rancid sometimes.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

It's more or less mineral oil, it will soak in, Yes it's safe for food preparation.

mineral oil
Mineral oil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

" Food preparation

Food grade mineral oil has an E number of E905a, although it is not approved in food stuff in the European Union, and incidental amounts in foods are carefully regulated.[12]. Because of its properties that prevent water absorption, combined with its lack of flavor and odor, food grade mineral oil is a popular preservative for wooden cutting boards, salad bowls and utensils. Rubbing a small amount of mineral oil into a wooden kitchen item periodically will prevent absorption of food odors and ease cleaning, as well as maintain the integrity of the wood, which is otherwise subjected to repeated wetting and drying in the course of use. The oil fills small surface cracks that may otherwise harbor bacteria.[13]

Outside of the European Union, it is occasionally used in the food industry, particularly for candy. In this application, it is typically used for the glossy effect it produces, and to prevent the candy pieces from adhering to each other. It has been discouraged for use in children's foods, though it is still found in many candies, including Swedish Fish.[14] The use of food grade mineral oil is self-limiting because of its laxative effect. The maximum daily intake is calculated to be about 100 mg, of which some 80 mg are contributed from its use on machines in the baking industry.[15]

It is added to some food products as a substitute for fat. It is also used on cooking utensils or to grease cookware and bakeware to prevent food from sticking.

It is sometimes used as a lubricant in enema preparations, because most of the ingested material is excreted in the stool rather than being absorbed by the body.[15]"
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Router Newbie said:


> Thanks Bob. Is baby oil safe for food preparation? Does it dry or remain oily?


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## barking spider (Dec 26, 2010)

I used salad bowl finish on mine - safe for use with foods.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Salad bowl finish not for cutting boards? - by NateX @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

Router Newbie said:


> Thanks for replying Dennis. Where does one buy walnut oil? I see it can be used in salads and food preparation, does this mean a food store, or is there a grade for use with wood which may be sold by a paint outlet or timber yard?


Walnut oil is sold in food stores for making salad dressings, etc.


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> You want a oil base item,it will bead the water off the board but take care some of the items will go rancid is sort order,,and become a Bacterial Haven ,try some baby oil it works well..
> 
> ====


I'm unsure about baby oil but at any rate it would have to be absolutely odor free.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Router Newbie said:


> I have just made four cutting boards from 40mm thick white beech. After sanding to a smooth finish, I wiped boards down with water to remove sanding dust and found that the grain seemed to lift giving sharp edges that are sure to cause splinters. Can I seal this wood with something to prevent this happening? Bear in mind that these will be used to cut food on, meat, bread etc so I am hesitating over what to use. Any advise would be appreciated.



Hi Stan,

Firstly, if when you dampen the board, the grain is raised, then you may need to sand with a finer grit (go to 400/600) - I have wiped timber with a damp rag specifically to raise the grain for the next higher grit. You should end up with a finish as smooth as glass.

Secondly, my teacher advised me to use grape seed oil as a food safe finish.

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/29578-food-board.html#post243575


Available in the supermarkets. :sold:


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## Router Newbie (Jun 12, 2011)

Hi James, I will check availability of grape seed oil. So far I have tried large hardware store for mineral oil and no success. Does anyone know if raw linseed oil is suitable?


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

Lee Valley sells Tung oil and walnut oil that works great for cutting boards.

Edit: use the 100% pure tung oil if you do get some from LV or elsewhere. Slower to dry, but it's approved for food contact items. Like others said, you'll need to reapply over time, or just let it get dry.

You could try to seal it with an extremely light coat of shellac, to firm up the fibers, but this is totally conjecture, I'm not sure if it's actually a good idea.


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

This orange/canuba stuff is also pretty great, it smells fantastic. 

Orange Wax - Lee Valley Tools


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## PigBear (Dec 14, 2010)

On the nut oils be careful, some people have nut allergies.

I'm making cutting boards as a gift this year - I'm using butcher block oil. Which is mineral oil.


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## PigBear (Dec 14, 2010)

Well since I'm not to 10 posts yet I can't edit my post above.

On the salad bowl finish it would eventually wear through from cutting on it with knives. From what I recall it's just shellac. You could re-apply as needed if it's your cutting board.


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

You might want to read this post, it's pretty topical to this post.  
Finishing a Butcher Block Cutting Board | The Wood Whisperer


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## barking spider (Dec 26, 2010)

I just grabbed the can of salad bowl finish I have used and it says right on the can its for butcher blocks, among other things. I have made cutting boards for at least 20 years and have never had a problem. Many of the cutting boards get very heavy use.
When they start showing wear, I sand them down again (removes knife marks) and apply salad bowl finish again. I usually apply it over a few days with several coats.

Never had a complaint, never gotten sick, or had any unidentifiable rashes show up.
Heres a couple photos of the can.


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## PigBear (Dec 14, 2010)

General Finishes site says "For actively used butcher block counter tops that are used for chopping and cutting, only use Butcher Block Oil."

I don't think it's for toxicity as Salad Bowl Finish is shellac or bug excretion. Probably it's for performance reasons. If you build up a film with it the constant wear of a knife is going to dull the finish and it'll look bad. Also if it leaves cuts in the finish then it could harbor bacteria whereas wood is supposed to absorb water and starve/kill off bacteria.

On an end-grain cutting board it's probably not a problem as the fibers would close up/heal themselves. On a face-grain cutting board it'd be different.


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

There's also hemp oil, which this company is safe for cutting boards. I have a tin of this stuff, it's pretty sweet and a local (to me) company! 

Homestead House Paint Company - Toronto Ontario Canada


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

*Cutting Board Finish*

My son and I made an end-grain butcher block cutting board for Mom a couple of Christmas's ago, after viewing Marc Spagnuolo's (The Wood Whisperer) video on making one and talking about cutting board finishes.

As some mentioned before, oil is an option (avoid nut oil due to alergies) but what he felt was a better option (and now I do too) is a very dilute varnish. By very dilute, I'm talking on the order of 4 parts mineral spirits to one part varnish. This thin mixture, applied freely to end grain, will soak completely through the board leaving a small amount of varnish adhering to and protecting the vertical wood fibers throughout the thickness of the board.

If you read the MSDS's for varnishes (and most finishes), once cured they are approved for indirect contact. By indirect contact, this means not consuming the product directly.

The issue with any cutting board finish is NOT to build a film that can peel or flake off after being cut with a knife.

Oil will work well also but requires periodic reapplication. Aftr 2 years our cutting board looks like new (except for the tiny cut marks that show up in the end grain cuts).

I recommend viewing the following video

How to Make an End Grain Butcher Block Cutting Board | The Wood Whisperer

and then reading his write-up on it here:

Finishing a Butcher Block Cutting Board | The Wood Whisperer

Pictures of our cutting board are attached. You can see the polyurethane varnish can in the background and the plastic bowl we used for the dilution. And yes, I checked the MSDS on that particular brand. 

Jim


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## spectacle43 (Jun 20, 2011)

I might suggest you use GRAPSEED OIL,we use it on wood turning projects that are used to prepare or store food.It seals well ,it is an anti-oxidant, with a quick drying time.The best part it's natural,buy it from your foodstore.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

spectacle43 said:


> I might suggest you use GRAPSEED OIL,we use it on wood turning projects that are used to prepare or store food.It seals well ,it is an anti-oxidant, with a quick drying time.The best part it's natural,buy it from your foodstore.


Thanks Brian, that's 2 votes for Grape seed oil..........:dance3:


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

You can spend more money of a fancy product but mineral oil is safe and a bottle will run you less than $2 at Walmart.


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## badlutz (Dec 20, 2011)

*Butcher block sealing*

I think it all depends on if the board will be used. I know that sounds dumb but every board that I have made for the family has only been used to look at, except two. Of course I have used oils that are harmless in all. The very first one I made I put Tung oil on it and it has lasted now for years. It did take several coats and a lot of sanding due to the grain rising from being dampened. 
Now I make my own mixture. Mineral oil with parafin wax melted in it. It takes quite a while to heat the oil in the microwave(over ten minutes). I use about 10 oz of hot oil to 1 oz of shaved wax. Apply to the board. Wait for it to dry and then buff. Then I do it again. I'm not sure if the second time helps but I do it anyway because I always make to much oil.
If the board is simply for looks you can do anything with it. I personally think we worry too much about certain things anyways.


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## jamesamd (Jul 21, 2011)

I use PURE tung oil,pure being the point.It can be thined,as I do with 4 parts mineral spirits to 1 part tung oil.
First coat apply up to 3/4 of an hour,untill portions of the board stop soaking it in.Wipe off excess totally and let dry/harden for 72 Hrs.
Apply another coat if You want a higher gloss every 24 Hrs after the initial 72 Hr. set.
Jim


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## Doug B. (Dec 11, 2011)

I have been using olive oil on my boards and knife handles for years and have had no problems.


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## Kristin D (Nov 20, 2007)

Curiosity is a dangerous thing... so I looked up tung oil! 

As the source of tung oil is a nut, people with nut allergies often report adverse reactions to contact with (or even the odour of) tung oil. Reactions can be severe in some cases. While tung oil has been used for many centuries as a finish for kitchen items such as wooden bowls and cutting boards, some individuals must avoid its use.

So I guess it is down to mineral oil or olive oil, I would think a initial application of mineral oil would work and the board could be maintained with olive oil.

As for knife marks, if you're chopping up the cutting board you need better knives or get the ones you have sharpened. I just bought a 7 piece set from Sysco (food distribution) for $180 razor sharp and you can cut paper thin slices and not need to 'saw' through to the cutting board. I just examined my pull out built in cutting board from 1978 when the house was built and it only shows a few small nicks in the surface, not sure what wood it is made of kind of looks like maple.


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## Router Newbie (Jun 12, 2011)

Just wanted to say Happy New Year to all and thanks for your suggestions. I went with the grape seed oil suggestion as I was able to purchase it locally at a very reasonable price R60 or $7.50/liter). I used two coats and it appears to have done a good job. After use, I have wiped down the board with water and then dried off and have found the water just runs off the surface, which cleans very nicely. Also tastes great on salad!


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## gary penwright (Aug 19, 2010)

rockler sell a cutting board oil safe for food


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## spectacle43 (Jun 20, 2011)

Good choice Router Newbie,as I mentioned before we use grape seed oil on turning projects like Spirtles which get a hammering in the kitchen .No thinning with mineral required, safe for babies and absolutely no after effects with anybody with a nut sensitivity.


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## dattashri (Feb 24, 2012)

Dear Newbie,

definately its a splinter. I would adive to seal only the edges with Pu or melamine wood finish. As you will use use it for food , I dont suggest any wood preservative or sealer for top as it contains chemicals. You may laminate it. It is the best form for sealing. You may seal edges by edge binding roll.


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## spectacle43 (Jun 20, 2011)

Any cutting boards, wooden bowls,salad servers(wood) Grapeseed Oil.Absolutely no taste, no bacteria,buy from your supermarket cheap as chips.Ok you have wasshed your board,sand it again wipe on Grapeseed oil,let it dry- give it one more coat and no more worries .I have finished spurtles with it and my wife has given them a caning in the kitchen,they still exhibit the shine they started with.


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## lea137 (Aug 28, 2010)

Stan:
It's been awhile since I've been on this forum but I saw your question about cutting boards. I make a lot of end grain cutting boards. I first make them flat by using my Performax 16-32. Then I always wipe them down with a wet cloth in order to raise the grain. Then sand again with 220 grit on the random orbit. Next, apply a heavy soaking of pharmaceutical grade mineral oil (it says USP on the label). After that soaks in, I use 400 grit and apply another heavy dose of mineral oil. Finally finish with 600.


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## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

*mineral oil, constipation, finish, cutting*

I use mineral oil, and reapply as necessary. Give it a good heavy coat and leave it to soak in for an hour or so. Mineral oil canot go rancid, and it also helps to take a swig or two if you're suffering from irregularity. 

Water will raise the grain, and you'll have to resand - that's what happened to you.


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## VA Wood (Dec 8, 2009)

After reading many posts/comments, I have a suggestion: Your cutting board has two cutting surfaces - side A and side B. Apply mineral oil to side A and walnut oil to side B. Or if you want to try another combo, apply Salad Bowl oil/finish to one side and Butcher Block oil to the flip side.
After six months of use, you should be able to determine which cutting board "treatment" you like better. 
We would love to see your "experiment's" results posted here - with pictures if appropriate.
Good luck!


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## Billy Boy (Mar 4, 2012)

*Eco Friendly finish of cutting board*

For food safe finishes of cheese boards and cutting boards, I have done a good deal of research. I was going to use mineral oil, but discovered it is a petroleum distillate. I also wanted to keep away from nut allergens and so stopped using tung oil and walnut oil. I have settled on natural cold pressed hemp seed oil. It has no additives, no chemical drying agents, no odours, and no VOC's. It is absolutely wonderful to finsih with. I put 10 coats on my boards, having sanded them up to 220 grit. Then I make a hemp seed oil/natural beeswax mix on the ratio of 4 units of hemp seed oil to 1 unit of melted natural beeswax. I apply 2 coats of this mix. I also include 2 oz. of this mix with every purchase of my boards for continual refinishing of the boards. In Ontario, Canada, hemp seed finishing oil is ereadily available at Hempola, near Barrie, Ontario. They sell in stores and ship intaernationally. I believe strongly that , as people who work with wood, a very natural product, we need to lead the way in using environmentally friendly, non-toxic, products for our finishes.


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## Billy Boy (Mar 4, 2012)

I have found hemp seed oil and then a mix of hemp seed oil and natural beeswax works the bests for sealing a cutting board. I mix a paste for my last two coats with a ratio of 4 parts hemp seed oil and one part beeswax, which I melt with a double boiler system. (put the solid wax in a jar and then put the jar in a pot on the stove surrounded by water and heat the water until the wax liquifies. Check out the web site for Hempola in Barrie, Ontario, Canada, for good information on hemp seed oil for wood. You may have hemp seed oil producers closer to where you live. Hemp seed oil is natural, totally food safe, non-toxic, has no chemicals added, and is wonderful to work with. Good luck. Billy Boy


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