# Bull nose Router bit



## Rich28 (Sep 24, 2013)

Hello,

I am looking for a bull nose router bit with a cutting diameter of 28mm (or as close to this as possible) taking into account the differences between mm and inches. I have been quoted to get one made, however if possible would like to find an off the shelf one to keep costs down. Does anyone know of a company that makes them to this size?

I require the same router bit to have a bearing on the shaft, underneath the router head. Please refer to my attached picture.
Is there a known and easy way of getting a bearing on this side of the cutting head?

Im stoked to have found this great forum while trying to figure this all out!

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks
Richard


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

G'day Rich & welcome to the forum.

28mm or 1.102" is an odd size. I have not seen that size in any catalogs.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Rich28 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I am looking for a bull nose router bit with a cutting diameter of 28mm (or as close to this as possible) taking into account the differences between mm and inches. I have been quoted to get one made, however if possible would like to find an off the shelf one to keep costs down. Does anyone know of a company that makes them to this size?
> 
> ...


Hi Rich - Welcome to the forum
Closest I could find here in the states is a 1-1/8" (1.125") diameter. 28 mm works out to 1.102". Trend or one of those should have a 14mm radius bit I would think though. 
If you are interested here is a link:
Router Bit Sets - Bull Nose (Full Radius) Bits
would be item 160-1805 on that page. $80 doesn't sound bad for a bit that size but I don't know what shipping, customs, etc will do to you.


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

Try Woodtek 819867, Router Bits, Edge Forming, Bull Nose & Half Radius, 61849 1-1/4" Diameter Bull Nose Bit - amazon.com 51.99+sh. My calculator says 28 mm = 1.10 inches over size but depending on your profile you can center in a larger bit and be ok.

I have had trouble finding large bullnose 1"+ for stair treads, so if you get it and it works please let us know.

Good luck - Baker


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## Rich28 (Sep 24, 2013)

Thank you for your replies.
I found a router bit by MLCS Woodworking that would fit the bill. Looking at #7759 

The 1-1/8" should be close enough.
One problem I do have is that the outer diameter of the required bearing needs to be 5/8" and the inner diameter needs to be 1/2". Unfortunately it seems you dont get bearings this thin. 
I am now thinking of using a router template guide instead of a bearing. Makita make one listed in their router accessories (sorry I cant post web links yet)
Part number 344364-5 would work well as its outer diameter would be very close to the needed 5/8", however im thinking its going to be a little short to reach through the router table and provide guidance for me to run my work piece along. Ideally a guide template with a longer neck would be good, otherwise Ill have to look at making changes to my router table.


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## delmirj (Jan 10, 2013)

I have a 1.0" - 1/2" shank made in Pesaro, Italy by C.M.T. Utensili, part #854.509.11.
They may be able to help you.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

How about this one. A bearing and collar can easily be slipped up the shank.

Grizzly.com


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Rich28 said:


> The 1-1/8" should be close enough.
> One problem I do have is that the outer diameter of the required bearing needs to be 5/8" and the inner diameter needs to be 1/2". Unfortunately it seems you dont get bearings this thin.
> I am now thinking of using a router template guide instead of a bearing. Makita make one listed in their router accessories (sorry I cant post web links yet)
> Part number 344364-5 would work well as its outer diameter would be very close to the needed 5/8", however im thinking its going to be a little short to reach through the* router table *and provide guidance for me to run my work piece along. Ideally a guide template with a longer neck would be good, otherwise Ill have to look at making changes to my router table.


Rich - since you are using a router table you can just use the fence to guide the stock. If you have a split fence, I would close it up as tight as possible around the bit. If you don't have a split fence, just make a subfence with minimum clearance around the bit. I regularly do bull nose on the table with just the fence. The biggest issue I've had is if I don't have the fence set quite right or am not careful enough at the trail edge the stock can pull in a bit creating an error at the trail edge of the cut. A zero clearance insert would probably solve that for certain but I've been able to work around that need simply by being aware of the possibility.


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