# Know less than "0" about routers



## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

While helping finish the inside of a very recent addition to my home I became very interested in wood working.

I have been retired for a few years and am partially disabled which has input into my decisions about my tools. I needed something new to learn and have decided to change my media from the 'lady' things such as yarn and yard goods to wood.

The last thing I have bought is a router. It is a Hitachi standard and plunge reconditioned one. Firstly I have been completely intimated by it to the point of not even taking it out of the case.

Last week I did that and got some of it figured out and played with it for a few minutes. Needless to say I'm still intimated by it. It is large and heavy for my small hands and less than muscled arms.

I thought that by mounting it on a router table that fastens to one of my few work tables I would be comfortable with it. But that presented more problems than it is worth.

Now I am considering a Bouch palm router. My Hitachi purchase won't be in vain. I will give it to my son who has been into wood working for the last 30 years. And no, he can't help me since he lives 2,600 miles from me (and home). Besides, he's not the teacher type at least with his mom.

I am going to play around with what I have for now to see if things go better.

I have mostly been building hanging shelves, some floating shelves and frames of all sorts. I am more into the soft lines that a router can give all my work.... if only I could feel comfortable with what I have.

I know there are no dumb questions but I don't know enough about a router to ask any questions.

I expect you have a beginner's section which I will memorize and see where I should begin.

Have a great day.

Nikki1492


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Welcome to the forum Nikki, please don't dispose of your big router yet. I'm approaching 76, am only about 5'2", have some arthritis in my hands and back plus I've had Shingles for over a year and have no difficulty using a 3.25 HP Makita hand held, it's in the knack, which is acquired with use. Spend time, lots of time going through members galleries, including my own where most of my projects have photo shoots. In the meantime it would be nice if you could fill in your profile, being a very friendly forum, it's nice to know who we're dealing with and where about in the world they live, the latter makes it easier to give specific answers which would vary in different countries.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Thanks for the encouragement, Harry. I'm sorry you have so many problems. We do learn to do things in spite of.... BTW, I have just completed my profile.

Are there any forums in particular you would recommend? So far I've just been overwhelmed by all that's available to read and learn.

Where in Western Australia do you live? 
My sister married a guy from Perth. She and I spent 5 weeks there a few years back. When we were planning our trip we were asked to find places we wanted to see. Wow.... what an open ended question. I found Wave Rock. And to Wave Rock we did go. A trip and a special day I will always remember.

Barb


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings, is it Barb or NikkI? My son in Texas is getting married June 26 and her name is Nikki so either is good for me. Oh yes, and welcome to the router forum where there are no dumb question except for the one not asked. 

I agree with everything that Harry has said and believe others will say. There is a forum for Special needs folks. You might want to check that out. I know we have several folks with special needs and are real craftsman.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Thanks for the welcome, Jerry. My given name is Barbara and any part of that works for me. Just please don't call me late for lunch. <BIG GRIN>

The special needs forum is something I will be checking out. 
I am headed for a wheelchair but hopefully that is years away.
Right now I'm keeping as many tools and workbenches is a very small U-shape but will have to do a lot of changing when the time comes. I'll probably have to do the opposite to get a chair around.

Again, thanks. 
See you around.

Barb


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

You can do quite a lot with the little Colts but remember, you can fine work with big tools but often times you can't do big work with fine tools.

Harry has some good posts on how to use a ski jig. This can be set up to help support the router as you diddle around on a smaller work piece. Quite safe, the biggest problem becomes securing the workpiece as you are no longer worried about controlling the router.

If you feel the Makita is too big, there are smaller 1-3/4 HP routers around (Porter Cable and Bosch are good brands) that might be a viable compromise between the big iron and the itty-bitty. 

My suggestion to you is think first about what you would like to accomplish with the router. In fact, step back a little bit further and just think about the kind of projects you would like to take on, ignoring for the moment any need for tools etc. Then put that list up here and we can help you figure out what might be the best bang-for-the-buck and fit your particular physical abilities.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Barb,

that wheelchair seems to be looking for us all! to heck with the wheelchair and until we have deal with it, lets cover it up in sawdust! just read the forum indepth and watch the new posts. i havent been a member that long and i have learned so much! even when i dont "get it" the folks here are great and im proud to be friends with many of them!

a very big welcome and were glad to have you here!


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Barb,
Welcome to the forums! You might enjoy watching some videos on using the router. There are many available on the internet, but here are just a few...

Click HERE for video podcasts from Woodworkingonline.com. Podcasts #6, 13, 14, 30 and 32 pertain to routing, but you may enjoy the others also.

Click HERE for The Woodworking Channel Video Library and find "The Router Workshop" videos for hours of videos by the creators of our forum Bob and Rick Rosendahl.

Click HERE and look for "Router Tips and Tricks".

Like I said, these are only a few available. So, have fun and be safe. Routing can be very enjoyable, but at the same time it is very dangerous if not done correctly.


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## Maurice (Sep 24, 2004)

Welcome Nikki, You have come to the right place and will get to know a lot of great folks.
And help is just a keystroke away. No one is too small or too old, (I'm 91) to do woodworking. When you master the router, how about wood turning?? For me it's more fun than routing.


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

Welcome Barb

I have a big Hitachi and it mostly lives in the table. There are things that the little palm router just can't do. This is why some of us have more than one router!

The router can be dangerous if you don't understand how it works and the safety tips you need to know. So be sure to either read up alot or even better see if you can get a local community college, or even a woodworker to start you off.

Be sure to ask any questions here, these members know a lot (and they aren't all male )

~Julie~


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

There you go Barb., as I said, take time, lots of time to look around and when you feel ready to start, show us with a drawing what you intend to make and I'm sure that many different methods will be posted for you to choose from. When you're in the mood, list the tools that you have which will make helping you much easier.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the family Barb. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. We are trying to be one big happy family of woodworkers, who enjoy helping and sharing with others. Also, the more active female members the better.


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## Barry99 (Feb 10, 2009)

Welcome Barb, I would suggest reading at libary. Watching the videos mentioned and do searches for a project you may want to try. My first try and I had wood flying 30 feet away in seconds. (I was feeding wood wrong way) I did a lot of research, got all kinds of help from this forumn. I can't wait to do more projects with the router.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Thank you to everyone for the warm welcome. I can see this is a great group who want nothing more than to share and see success happen.

What started this all was finding a piece of dollhouse furniture I had stashed decades ago know I wanted one at some point. It's called a table/chair. It is a round table top that has one side on a dowel hinge which folds back against the wall revealing a chair with a back, arms and a bit of storage under the seat. It was used in the USA during the late 17th and the 18 centuries. The scale is 12:1.

After being inspired by the finish work on my addition I have really looked at it and it is simple enough that I'm sure I can do it myself. As soon as I figure out how to upload I'll send pictures.

Do I really need a planer and jointer? I understand what they do but I've already put a bit of coin into what I have. I simply don't have much room left. 

This is really a place where I can do what I do best..... ask questions. I am not shy in that respect.

Again, thanks to you all.

Barb


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Welcome Barb,

Making miniatures requires stock that's too thin to safely plane or joint without jigs. Just starting out, your best bet would be to shop for thin wood in some of the toy makers catalogs. Meisel's and Cherry tree toys are two that I like. 
You might also look at a line of tools from Proxxon. They sell a lot of power tools for miniature crafting. They have a router that looks pretty interesting, too. Although, Dremel sells a router base for their tool. A less expensive alternative than the Proxxon. Plus, Dremel (and many others) sell the abrasive tools for their machines that you may need in miniature work.
You may also want to look into a scroll saw and a small bench top band saw. We have a Delta scroll saw and band saw that we like. 

Good luck.

Gene


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Where in Western Australia do you live?"

I'm sorry Barb for forgetting to answer your question. I live in Rockingham, close to an hours drive from the CBD in Perth, we came out here from England in 1964 and I wouldn't go back for all the money in the world, this is a wonderful place with a wonderful climate and I've had and taken opportunities that simply would not have presented themselves back in England. Best wishes to you Barb in your new "career" !


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Gene Howe said:


> Welcome Barb,
> 
> Making miniatures requires stock that's too thin to safely plane or joint without jigs.
> 
> ...


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

How do I get a yellow star under my sign-in? I want one..... 

Barb


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

*Not gettin' older*

I'm not gettin' older, I'm gettin' better just like all of you. You're great role models.

A BIG thank you.

Barb


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

nikki1492 said:


> How do I get a yellow star under my sign-in? I want one.....
> 
> Barb


Barb,
Those are issued according to how many posts you have. So, just keep posting and you will have yours.


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

nikki1492 said:


> How do I get a yellow star under my sign-in? I want one.....
> 
> Barb


First off welcome to the community! 

Here is the thread which discusses the post ranks.

http://www.routerforums.com/routerforums-com-news-feedback/11059-new-post-ranks.html

See you around the community


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Thanks for the welcome and for the link.

Most times my independence shows through and I look everything up and then times like now I just ask questions.
I am totally new to forums so I'm learning everything about it all and mostly at one time to keep from doing something unacceptable.

Thanks again

Barb


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

nikki1492 said:


> Thanks for the welcome and for the link.
> 
> Most times my independence shows through and I look everything up and then times like now I just ask questions.
> I am totally new to forums so I'm learning everything about it all and mostly at one time to keep from doing something unacceptable.
> ...


No problem  If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Edit: Questions in regards to forum functionality, believe it or not my woodworking knowledge is fairly minimal.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"One thing I'm wondering is what kind of joinery I should use on the table top. I tried dowel joints and they were not a good as I had hoped."

Are you referring to jointing the boards for the top, if so, I'm a great believer in biscuits, no measuring is required and the slots are cut in a heart beat, they are basically used for accurate alignment with plenty of sideways adjustment. Another simple method is to use a slot cutter in the table and run a stopped groove the length of the boards then insert a ply spline. Dowels for this purpose are a pain in the butt.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Hi Harry,

Yes, I am concerned about the table top boards. You're so right about this kind of doweling being what you said. I have jigs, several made from wood and one metal one but I still have a dickens of a time with them. The dowels themselves are not very forgiving.

Your idea of the slotting appeals to me. How would I make the ply spline without a table saw? Is it doable with a router? I've got a circular saw, jig saw, compound miter saw, compressor with a brad gun and now the router. 

I would like to do this without buying any new equipment if at all possible. I'm simply running out of both money and room.

What's your word, oh great one. <giggly>

Barb


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

Just use glue. I don't use splines, dowels or biscuits.

But, are you doing miniatures? Do you need to join boards if it's small?

~Julie~


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Barb,
If you are just joining boards for the table top you really don't need any kind of splines or biscuits. The biscuits add no strength to the joint, just alignment. All you need is for the board edges to be flat and square to each other and glue them together with some firm clamp pressure. Don't clamp too tight or they will try to buckle on you. Just enough clamp pressure to cause a little line of glue squeeze out. To insure against buckling you might want to clamp cauls across the ends and middle.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

@Julie,
I'm doing it life sized not miniature. The miniature is my 'pattern' for this. 

I would like to have a 30" table top but that will be more controlled by how I scale up from the 12:1 ratio of the miniature.

@George.
There ya go, work smarter not harder.

What wood glue would you recommend? 

I have Elmer's wood glue and Gorilla wood glue as well. But I'm hoping one of my children will like it enough to take and use it after I've crossed over.

Also..... what wood would any of you recommend? I have very limited knowledge of woods/grains. With that limit I am now thinking birch. Could that be a realistic possibility?

Thanks to all.

Barb


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Barb, the Elmers wood glue should be fine, here its easier to find titebond and thats what i would use. i wouldnt use gorilla glue.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

hey levon, I'll look locally for titebond. 

I am mostly working now with leftovers from the addition being added. Everybody over bought because I live so far from a town..... 10 miles one-way for a gallon of milk.

I really don't like to shop for anything. Not that I'm a Scrooge but it is hard on me physically. But if you recommend something.... like titebond... I will look for it at the local home center.... or 30 miles away is a Lowe's store. Do you know if it would be there?

Thanks,
Barb


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

Barb, im sure they have it, but if the elmers is ok i would use it. Bob one of our moderation team uses it and likes it. as i said the only reason i use titebond is its about the only wood glue i can find in my small town.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

Barb, some projects can seem overwhelming and here is just a thought. you mentioned birch and thats a great wood. but if you ever thought of using just pine, you can buy round tops already glued up at home centers. that way you wouldnt need to joint or plane the top. im just throwing out a few thoughts. im no expert and havent been a member that long myself.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Your endorcememt of titebond came at a good time. Last evening on a podcast I watch several segments of Sam Maloof (who died just a couple weeks ago at age 93) and the woodworking experience. He used titebond 2 for most of his work. He used titebond 3 on dark woods because it makes a dark line where the glue is. If the glue gets on your hands it turns them black and has to wear off. I thought of you immediately.

I didn't know places sold already made tabletops. But then for all the longer I've been interested in woodworking I'm lucky I knew they had power tools.

I have no problem using pine at all. I think I should plan a trip to Lowe's, get in their electric cart (their floors kill my back) and browse the wood sections. I need to know a bit more about what's out in the real world.

Thanks, levon, for your help. Not only do I not know much about the router but woodworking in general is an entirely new hobby for me.

Barb


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Barb, I hate to be the bearer of bad news, especially to a lady, but I have to tell you that if you're serious about woodwork, then a table saw is essential. In my not so humble opinion, biscuits or splines make for a table top that generally requires little sanding because the boards are in alignment, often they slip slightly when clamping without these aids. It's always a good idea to alternate the grain direction to prevent cupping. Because your table is to be round, I would use biscuits, the spacing being different between each pair of boards each side of centre. As for glue, I personally use "weldbond" arriving here in Australia all the way from Canada and I don't know about the other ones mentioned but with this the wood will break, leaving the joint intact if you set out to destroy the joint, even a simple lap joint.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

You're not the bearer of bad new, Harry. You're only confirming what my 'gut' has been telling me for a while now. 

For the time being it will have to wait till I pay down my credit card. I've been using the card for all the woodworking things I have recently bought.

I did know about the cupping and how to prevent it. 

I understand what you're saying about using biscuits or splines. It makes a lot of sense to me. I'm trying to learn to work smarter not harder in everything I do.

What about tongue & groove? Or is that working harder not smarter?

I've been thinking about all these kinds of joinery and am interested in learning the good, the bad and the ugly of each one of them.

Thanks for the info, Harry. 

Barb


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

While I'm in hold mode for the table saw could you please tell me what I should be looking for in a table saw?

Again, I know nothing about it so I am a blank slate to be written on.

Thanks
Barb


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

nikki1492 said:


> What about tongue & groove? Or is that working harder not smarter?


With splines or biscuits one tool setup cuts both sides of the joint and the grooves are referenced off the exposed face so thickness variations won't affect the visible surface. Easy and accurate to 1/1000th of an inch. Nothing is done to the surface so it's friendly to veneers. 

With tongue and groove there are two different bits. While in theory you could have two arbors and/or spacers that put the cutters at the same height when the shafts line up with the collet identically most makers don't do that. Most tongue cutters don't have opposing shear angles so you may have issues with the veneer on one or both faces.

Both sides of a shiplap joint can be cut with a rabbeting or bearing guided box/finger joint bit with the setup remaining the same only when the stock is of uniform thickness. Unfortunately setup errors due to bit height are in opposite directions on the two pieces, so .005" off on bit height yields .010" off on the joint which you can't sand out when one of the pieces has thin veneer. 

Glue-line, 45 degree lock miters, and non-bearing guided finger joint bits don't leave any of the original stock so you have all those problems plus having to tape on guide pieces.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

nikki1492 said:


> Thanks for the welcome, Jerry. My given name is Barbara and any part of that works for me. Just please don't call me late for lunch. <BIG GRIN>
> 
> The special needs forum is something I will be checking out.
> I am headed for a wheelchair but hopefully that is years away.
> ...


Barb, I have been confined to a wheelchair since late 2000 and took up router work in 2006, shortly before I joined this forum. I do have to do some things differently, but I can usually figure out how to do what I want to do. Im my day job I am a scientist who does real lab work. Arranging things for the most efficient work can be a challenge. I prefer to have my main work area immediately in front of me with my legs under the bench and a side area immediately to my right (I am right handed although the accident that eventually put me in a wheelchair also broke my right upper arm and that took eleven months and two surgeries to heal, so I can do many things left handed)

As you can tell I am also prone to long-winded posts and no one has called me on it yet.

You sound like a very accomplished woodworker/router user now. Best of luck with everything, especially your health.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Hey Drew,

Thank you for your input and much needed info. I believe that biscuits are the less error prone way to go.

Barb


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Hey Tom,

I appreciate hearing from you.

It took a while after the work related injury to put my daughter's advice into practice, "adapt your environment to you." That, combined with working smarter not harder has helped me beyond words.

I wish I were as accomplished as you think I am. I have done about 5 passes with my Hitachi router. It is a monster and way too big for my small hands. It has me completely intimidated. I didn't have a clue when I bought it and my 'buddy', male, was all for it.

Actually I'm just setting up a shop and running low on finances so I'm using leftover lumber, screws, some nails, etc. I am making all my tables right now however crude they may be so I can get in creative mode. The first I will make is a router table with a lift.

I'm training a helper along with it all.... a service (assistance) dog. He's got a very soft mouth and picks up everything without leaving a tooth mark..... but what's a little drool among friends.

He's learned to tolerate the power tool sounds but I make him leave the workshop before I turn any on. I don't want his hearing impaired.

Together we'll learn and I'll make the table/chair of my dreams.

As my Amazon parrot would say, "Later, mon" (supposed to be man)

Barb


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

nikki1492 said:


> Hey Tom,
> 
> I appreciate hearing from you.
> 
> ...


The service animals are great. It is amazing to watch them work. Do you have a plan for a table. There was a post here that built the table with free wood gotten from a kitchen cabinet factory, the sink cutout is a good resource for the table top. Have followed you since you sign up, Thank you for bringing hope to those of us who have health issues. You are a breath of fresh air. Enjoy!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

In addition to the drawbacks of tongue & groove joints mentioned by Drew, the tongue & groove will show at the ends, not so with biscuits. As for the saw, how about an add something like this on Craigs list;

Lady with little cash, starting woodworking is looking for a table saw for which she promises a good home. You never know your luck, there may even be a member who needs the space being taken by an unused saw table!


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

nikki1492 said:


> Hey Tom,
> 
> I appreciate hearing from you.
> 
> ...


Barb,

Do they make doggy hearing protectors? <only half-joking>


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Honestly, I've been thinking a lot of what I could create like that. 

The one problem I have is with the parrot. He, Simon, has a habit of trying to 'out loud the loud' noise. So when I'm using a power tool he's upstairs trying to scream louder.

It's a zoo here but I wouldn't change it for the world.

Barb


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

> Thank you for bringing hope to those of us who have health issues. You are a breath of fresh air. Enjoy!


Well thank you, Howard. 

I don't have a router table plan and the sink cutout sounds great. It would be perfect. I did read that, too, but had forgotten about it.

Harry, Your point about the ends of the tongue & groove showing is something I hadn't thought about. You've got me convinced that biscuits are the easiest and best way for my table/chair top.

The Craig's list is a really good idea. May I quote you for the ad? I was thinking about adding something like 'it would be fed regularly'. <GRIN>

Barb


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The more humorous the add Barb, the more likely you are to achieve the desired result, do please feel free to say "Harry told me to do it"!


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

You are so right about the humor. And now I've got my 'out'! Thanks, Harry, I'll make sure I tell them.

So far I've found three table saws... but none will work for me. One is a humungous industrial model 75 USD and the other one is on a case iron table 125 USD. 

There's another one who is said to need a new home. The problem being, it's well over 200 miles drive one way and the people won't meet me half way. Since that's beyond my driving distance any more I'll pass on that one.

I'm practicing with a keyhole bit now. The scrapes look like they've got wood worms. Any words of wisdom?

Barb


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"I'm practicing with a keyhole bit now. The scrapes look like they've got wood worms. Any words of wisdom?"


These two shots show how I rout keyholes Barb. Set the depth of cut, position router, plunge, push or pull router, depending which way the work piece is placed a distance that looks OK, move router back to start position BEFORE raising it! I do it freehand but it can have pieces of wood/MDF clamped either side of router base as guides. Notice the four pieces of scrap pinned around the clock to keep it in position. I have in the distant past made templates for doing this but as each item is different, I considered it not worth the time and effort, however, if many of the SAME items are to have keyholes, then I would make a template which would ensure that each one was identical.
Notice on the first shot the board, the same thickness as the frame, to support the router when pushing it rearwards.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

I was thinking template but you're right about the differences. That saves me some work.

I've been stopping the router at the far end of the keyhole. Then I use an air gun to clear the hole and go back to where I entered the stock without the router running.

You "fixed" a major problem for me.... I must get that support so the router stays flat!

I need to start thinking woodworking rather than something like sewing.... e. g. buttonholes.

Thanks, Harry.... back to the practice table. <grin>

Barb


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

nikki1492 said:


> I was thinking template but you're right about the differences. That saves me some work.
> 
> I've been stopping the router at the far end of the keyhole. Then I use an air gun to clear the hole and go back to where I entered the stock without the router running.
> 
> ...


Barb, 
Have you considered skis to support your router? They would also take care of the weight issue. Look for Template Tom, Harry (HarrySin) and BobJ3 posts among others. They also keep the rotating bit well away from fingers so add a significant safety factor.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

*Full size plans*



nikki1492 said:


> @Julie,
> I'm doing it life sized not miniature. The miniature is my 'pattern' for this.
> 
> I would like to have a 30" table top but that will be more controlled by how I scale up from the 12:1 ratio of the miniature.


Barb, I found these plans for a table chair. They are for a 40" table top tho. They date back to Aug '83. I don't know if they will help.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Hi Tom,
That is a great idea! And now I know what skis are. In fact I've got a jig I made early on to plane off 1 X 3's that were a bit cupped. I didn't realize until now that was the same principle as the skis.

Thank you, Thank you, Thank you. That's working smarter not harder. <grin>

Barb


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Wow, Dave! Where on earth did you find that? I'm sure it took some lot of digging.
That is exactly what I'm looking for. I'll think about being able to use a 40" top. That is sooooo much better than using graph paper to get a pattern.
You just helped me take another step toward my dream. Thank you so very, very much.

Barb

Doc rocks! <grin>


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

You are quite welcome Barb. I went to a garage sale saturday and they had a bunch of old workbench, handyman, and a few of the "Hands On" magazines. I have a hard time passing up old woodworking mags. I found in one of the Hands On mag that table and I knew I had to have it. The "Hands On" mag for those that don't know, was a mag put out by Shopsmith. So, I hope it will help Barb.


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## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

That is awesome. What are the chances? One person's trash is truly another's treasure.

I'm know it will be very helpful. The 40" top is a bit big for my room but sizing it down is much easier than outlining available parts on graph paper and going from there. 

The man who designed this pattern was thinking along the same lines as me.... with the dowels, etc. I would like to make it as close to the period as possible.

Thanks again and "later mon" 
Barb


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