# custom door edge bit



## bclaa (Aug 31, 2010)

I'm building an built-in entertainment center/bookshelf unit, and am currently working on the raised panel doors for the base cabinets. This is my first try at raised panel doors, and it seems to be going pretty well. I bought a custom door edge router bit to dress the edges of the doors, and the drawer fronts (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=19480 ). I'm not necessarily a newby to the router table, but on one of the drawer fronts, the bit caught on one, and really chewed up the edge. This wasn't a big deal on the drawer front, as I just cut another piece to size, and finished the edge (although it scared the crap out of me when it caught and jerked in the table - thank God for featherboards!). I've never had a bit catch on a piece of wood (red oak) like that.

I'm not really thrilled with the idea of putting all of the time into a raised panel door, only to have it ruined while finishing the the edges with this bit. Did I just do something wrong feeding the piece through the table, or is there some trick to these bits that a more seasoned woodworker might know of? It may be a stupid question, but I'm not very fond of having to re-do several hours of work.


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## LexB (Apr 12, 2010)

When feeding the narrow ends of wide pieces, like a drawer front, I prefer to use either a miter gauge or better yet, a coping sled that has a toggle clamp to hold down the work piece. It's difficult to hold the piece perfectly against the fence, and a little assistance via a coping sled really helps. If you're going to use wide diameter bits, like for raised panels, then you *must* use a variable speed router. Running a large diameter bit at 26,000 RPM is begging for trouble.


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## Collett (Nov 4, 2010)

Hard to say what caught the wood. If you look closely you might find a small knot that is partially hidden. I have seen this once in a while. Sometimes things happen and we don't know why.
In terms of of using a mitre gauge as LexB suggested ... I highly recommend against using a mitre gauge on a router table. They are highly suseptible to causing problems. It is very hard to align a fence with a mitre gauge and if you don't you end up with a bad cut. A copping sled is MUCH better choice as LexB also mentions that he prefers.

One last point ... you are probably doing this, as you are are somewhat experienced but unless you are using a copping sled, always use a 90 degree square board as your push block when running wood through the router table. It is safer and helps reduce tear out.

Hope this helps ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Welcome to the RWS forum


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