# Glue stain on maple & cherry?



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

I'm using black iron pipe on my pipe clamps. I get the black stain on the wood under the clamp where I don't get the glue cleaned off. 
Titebond I is the glue type. 
I don't know if it's the glue reacting with the wood &/or metal that makes this black stain. It may be something in the "wild cherry" since it seems to be dark & leech out on the maple where the cherry is.
Anyone ever have "Titebond" do this?
Maybe I could put some paste wax on the clamps?
Black iron pipe was Lowes, China I think.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Dave, put a little waxed paper between the wood and the black pipe. It shouldn't stick to the glue.


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Good Idea . 
I was thinking of paste wax on the clamps also may work. Less of PIA.
Wonder why the cherry wood is doing this? very acidic? reacting with the PVA glue (base)
Planer has got most of the stains off so far so it's not too deep.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dave

Wax paper works great or butcher paper works very well also but the best way is to keep the pipe off the stock,, with the home shop clamp ends,,just put the stock flat and the pipe clamps over the top of the stock...if you need to clamp both sides then use the wax paper over the pipe 
They work very well without buying the high ends ones..


I should note that you can buy the plastic end caps but they don't lift the bar that high, you can make them a bit higher than you see in the snapshots,, the higher the better to a point...  the last ones I made where 6 1/2 " x 6 1/2" ... 



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Bogydave said:


> Good Idea .
> I was thinking of paste wax on the clamps also may work. Less of PIA.
> Wonder why the cherry wood is doing this? very acidic? reacting with the PVA glue (base)
> Planer has got most of the stains off so far so it's not too deep.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

It's not the wood that's giving you the problems nor the glue. Black pipe is prone to do this. Grab it with your bare hand and your hand turns black. Black pipe or gas pipe as its known, is cheap and causes more problems than what's it worth. Down the road, you'll encounter flakes of rust falling of that pipe as well. Just another stain waiting to happen. 

Best to use galvanized pipe.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

You know Hamlin you are correct BUT I have gotten black spots using my Jet and Bessy parallel clamp's so sometimes the reaction is from the wood and or glue, it must be or where is it coming from?


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Yea, the wax paper idea seems to be the simplest cheapest fix.
Have been using the distilled white vinegar/water mix trick (bj3), it cleans the glue quicker/better than just water.
Nervous & hyped up today, Steelers have to play the Ravens to get to the Super Bowl. (Steeler fan since, well forever.)


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

The Steelers are making some stupid mistakes, you should be nervous. I am 15 minutes behind DO NOT TELL ME WHAT HAPPENS!

I am lucky I just run my glue ups through the drum sander. 

Water works fine on the Titebond III no vinegar required at all. As good and inexpensive as Titebond III is I just do not get why anyone would use yellow glue or anything else for that matter, unless a special application requires it.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Putting painters tape on the pipe or bar works also.


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Hi Mike
I like the masking tape idea, Good one. Won't be slipping off & replace as needed.
Thanks


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I don't know about cherry, many woods are acidic a very good example is red cedar and the use of non SST nails. Combine a little moisture, (glue) with the acid in the wood and it begins to eat the material, brites galvis and anodized nails will bleed out black onto the material. 
If you're anywhere near the ocean add salt spray into the mix and it accelerates the corrosion.

The coating on black pipe, (not to be confused with cast iron) is just to slow down the erosion process.
You can slip 1/8" spacers in to keep the pipe off the material, be less generous with the glue, wipe excess glue off as you clamp and or tilt the material to force run off.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Another thought would be to cut short (1" or so) pieces of white PVC pipe that would slip over the black pipe between the ends of the clamp. They can then be positioned under the work piece as desired.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

I also use the PVC pipe, I split the PVC so I can snap it over the pipe  I used a die grinder cutter to split the PVC pipe with a 1/2" gap..it's a easy fix for the black marks..  most are about 12" long or so..
This came about when my BOSS said where is my wax paper ?? ... 
I also use the clear plastic tubes that come on some florescent lights tubes...

I should note their is black pipe and black pipe,, some of it is ruff and full of oil.(cutting oil) and then the best is black and soooooooth that you can wipe down and keep clean.. it's almost has a gloss when you buy it and no seam mark..

I'm not a big fan of galv.pipe it will crack and break the plating coat and turn into little razor blades on the pipe 

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Ralph Barker said:


> Another thought would be to cut short (1" or so) pieces of white PVC pipe that would slip over the black pipe between the ends of the clamp. They can then be positioned under the work piece as desired.


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## opelblues (Aug 22, 2008)

hi all, i drilled out the hole on the end clamps (cast iron) and on the pipe i put heat schrink electrical tubes, this covered the pipe there is a little damage on the HS when the clamp is applied but it saves marking the job, and when the damage gets to bad on the heat schrink i just cut it of and put a new tube on and heat it down, no slippage no marks


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