# Rockler and Benchdog table inserts, also install questions



## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Does anyone know what the differences are between the aluminum router table inserts offered by Rockler? There are three different ones, all the same dimensions (8 1/4 x 11 3/4 x 1/4"). There is a blue Rockler plate, a black Rockler Pro plate, and a Benchdog plate. I can't see a shred of difference between any of them. I actually think the Benchdog and Rockler Pro are just the same plate with a different name, both for $60, but the blue one sells for only $40 and it appears identical to them as well. 

Then there are also the Phenolic plates, same dimesions, only 3/8" thick instead. Is it just as good, or would you stay with aluminum? 

Also, can these be simply installed in a table surface by just lying in the opening and held in by weight of the attached router, or do they have to be secured with screws? Do they absolutely have to have leveling screws also, or is it possible to just rout out the opening to be good enough without them?

EDIT--I'd like to edit this question to include the Kreg router table insert plates. They're phenolic, not aluminum, so I'd like to know if using the Kreg plate levelers with them, or any other phenolic plate, is a good or bad thing? The levelers are designed to eliminate the need for a rabbet inside the mount plate cutout where the insert normally rests. They install from below the table, in the corners of the cutout. Each corner has two leveling screws, and one place where the plate can be secured from the top once it's level. I have zero experience with phenolic, but I assume it is softer than metal so using the screws to level it may dig into it after a while. I always say, "just because a product is available doesn't make it a good idea", so even though this seems like a great idea, I wonder how great it is?


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## Dr Neon (Apr 15, 2010)

Hi Duane. I bought a Rockler plate to start off, and had two more made when we did a 1/4" aluminum water jet job. Aluminum is a 5000 grade. Cost about $3 each that way. My router table top is 1-1/4" fine chipboard with a formica top. (braced with 1"X2" aluminum rectangles) I cut out the center hole with a jigsaw, then made a jig and used an old 690 P/C to route out the pocket for the plate to sit in. I had to do a bit of sanding to adjust the fit, not much. Gravity works best. It's super easy to reach under and lift the motor out. We don't need no steenkin' lifts! All sits nice and flat, so no need for leveling screws. There is enough material in the corners to bury a contact pad in the case you need it. Measure four or five times, cut once. I must admit I have every bit as much fun making/modding tools as I do in making the stuff they are for.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I went with the Keg insert plate for the Bosch 1617 and the Triton 3 1/4hp router. Both plates have holes pre-drilled so the adjustment crank/hex key will fit through, My old plate was the Rockler Group A plate for the Bosch. I had to drill my own hole, which was off just a tad. I had to enlarge it to make it work. 

When I built the new table, I decided to eliminate that little problem, so I bought the Kreg plates.


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