# Blanket Box



## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Over some time I have made several blanket boxes for kids as they have grown up, well, Im gonna be a great grand pa in January so looks like I have to do another. In the past I have just butted the sides together,glued and screwed.
This time, because of the info by members of this forum I would like to use box joints to fix the sides. I will be using 3/4 inch ply (19 mil) for the exersize, and intend cutting a template from 2mil scrap with 3/4 apertures/fingers . I would like to know if I am on the right track, and what size straight bit and guide to use.Any other info would be great, Regards.........AL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Al Robins said:


> Over some time I have made several blanket boxes for kids as they have grown up, well, Im gonna be a great grand pa in January so looks like I have to do another. In the past I have just butted the sides together,glued and screwed.
> This time, because of the info by members of this forum I would like to use box joints to fix the sides. I will be using 3/4 inch ply (19 mil) for the exersize, and intend cutting a template from 2mil scrap with 3/4 apertures/fingers . I would like to know if I am on the right track, and what size straight bit and guide to use.Any other info would be great, Regards.........AL


Hi Al,

I would recommend the Gifkins jigs... they now have a finger/box joint jig as well as the dovetails.

If you are not worried about the dovetails, you can by the kit with the box joint templates.


James


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Thanks James, what sizes do the finger joints come in, 19 mill (3/4inch) Regards.......AL


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Al, I've never used one, but this jig looks pretty interesting. And seems to be perfect for large projects.

PRAZI USA - Chestmate


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Thanks Rusty.... that looks interesting,,,am going to muddle along and cut a template 3/4 by 3/4 and try it on some scrap. If it works...ok if not I will try something else, Regards....AL


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Al,

I haven't tried this but you may see the plywood splinter and chip around the box cuts. Perhaps with Baltic Birch (13-ply no-void) 3/4" ply? <shrug> This is just my thought as I have not tried it.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Al Robins said:


> Thanks James, what sizes do the finger joints come in, 19 mill (3/4inch) Regards.......AL


All,

Hope this works. have not tried an attachment before....


James


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Al, plywood is a poor choice for dovetails or box joints. You are better off using a solid wood, the results can be quite stunning. If you want to use plywood then consider doing a raised panel chest.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mike said:


> Al, plywood is a poor choice for dovetails or box joints. You are better off using a solid wood, the results can be quite stunning. If you want to use plywood then consider doing a raised panel chest.


I agree with Mike (glad to see you back), plywood has never been my choice for blanket boxes Allen. Here are a couple that I made a long time ago for my grandchildren which may give you more ideas to consider. As far as I remember, there were no fancy corner joints, I think they were lapped and internal corner blocks glued and screwed. The raised panel one is in Pine and the other is Jarrah. Both have casters.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

.........hey, thats a good one James, and to Mike and harry thanks for the tips. How do you reckon 3/4 mdf would go? if the ply splinters. As I said, I,m going to have a hack on some scrap and see what happens, Regards.....AL ps.I just wanted to make the edges a little different than the usual butt joint....AL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> I agree with Mike (glad to see you back), plywood has never been my choice for blanket boxes Allen. Here are a couple that I made a long time ago for my grandchildren which may give you more ideas to consider. As far as I remember, there were no fancy corner joints, I think they were lapped and internal corner blocks glued and screwed. The raised panel one is in Pine and the other is Jarrah. Both have casters.


Very nice blanket chests, Harry.

James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> Very nice blanket chests, Harry.
> 
> James


Thanks James. Allen, many, many years ago, before MDF became readily available, it was known here as Craftwood and was available only in small sizes, I made lots of toy boxes about 36" x 18" x 18" out of chipboard, to take away the plainness I made a hardboard male pattern and a template guide (for many years I thought that I had invented the template guide!) and routed two patterns on the top and front and one at each end then spray painted them.

I've just taken this shot of the original template and guide.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I've just remembered this blanket chest that I made for Marlene at about the same time that I was making the toy boxes for presents. Again it's chipboard, the outside brush painted with multiple coats of jarrah stain/varnish and the inside with acrylic paint.

This post is in no way meant to hi-jack Allen's thread, but rather to give him as many ideas as possible, so how about some more from other members.

ps; I've just been advised by you know who, to NOT put in a divider, now she tells me!


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Harry,

Excellent looking boxes.  I'm sure this will give Allen some wonderful idea's.


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## laxknut (Oct 17, 2008)

Al Robins said:


> .........hey, thats a good one James, and to Mike and harry thanks for the tips. How do you reckon 3/4 mdf would go? if the ply splinters. As I said, I,m going to have a hack on some scrap and see what happens, Regards.....AL ps.I just wanted to make the edges a little different than the usual butt joint....AL


MDF would be a worse choice than ply considering that the joints would be very weak and the fingers would easily split. Not to imply that ply is a good choice, as said, it will split as the fingers are routed. Solid wood is the best choice.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bill, you're spot on about finger joints with MDF, definitely a no no. I would/did lap, glue, screw and fill in the screw holes which won't show because MDF would of course be painted.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Well, thats put a whole new light on my original thinking. Glad I asked the question and raised the subject. Harry, those boxes look great. I did the same to one I made and put casters on it, also I got some 1/2 inch aluminium angle and screwed that to the four sides,more for affect than strength. It looked a bit "butch" but that box would be 15 years old and has certainly weathered the knocks. Back to the drawing board, Thanks again fellas, Regards.......AL


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

You can put DT's in ply, just put in a score line with a utility knife first. Do both sides. It will help reduce any "chipping".


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Hamlin, can I use the same deal with box joints that you mention? Using a sharp utility knife to score the outline......if it works with dove tails you would think it would work with finger/box joints. Regards.........AL


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

It should. You're scoring the outline. I've seen Norm Abrams even use the router to cut a score line for DT's in ply using the router. I've found scoring with a utility knife works far better than any other method.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

If you use a backer board and a front board on plywood and MDF in sandwich type clamp up with DS tape (1/8" thick MDF ) it will help, but you must use a new one for each new board you do..you can flip the backer boards over one time.. 

====


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The reason that I said MDF is a no no is because on two separate blanket box size projects, one with box joints the other with lockmitres, the MDF swelled with the glue and there wasn't enough time to square things up, hence: once hurt twice shy.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Al...

just another thought here to add fuel to the fire. You could take a few pieces of 3" stock, Rabbet joint both the stock and mdf/ply to fit (essentially a long lapjoint). Leaving a 1 1/2" edge on the stock to make your joints in. This might add a nice look to the piece as well...


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

The response to this post has been overwhelming to say the least and to that end I thank you all for your imput. I am going into hibernation for a few days and consider the pros and cons of the project. I will also be Off Line for the days leading up to Xmas and unless I can use my daughters computer I will be out of touch. SO......A VERY MERRY AND SAFE XMAS TO ALL from us down here. See ya in the new year . Regards............AL


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## alicesmith (Apr 16, 2013)

Oak blanket box acts as a wonderful storage solution for all sorts of traditional and modern homes alike. Ranging from handcrafted to premium grade, it features a large variety of oak blanket boxes like chamfered edges, rounded corners,inlaid grooves etc.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

harrysin said:


> I agree with Mike (glad to see you back), plywood has never been my choice for blanket boxes Allen. Here are a couple that I made a long time ago for my grandchildren which may give you more ideas to consider. As far as I remember, there were no fancy corner joints, I think they were lapped and internal corner blocks glued and screwed. The raised panel one is in Pine and the other is Jarrah. Both have casters.


Really good looking, I will be building a blanket chest/hope chest for Olivia. I have decided on cherry base structure with curly maple inset panels using a basic Shaker design.


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