# Drillpress cabinet



## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

The first picture shows the front view of the cabinet.
The second picture with door open and top shelf slides out to make it easier access contents .
The third picture shows the contents of second shelf.
The fourth picture shows the door construct simple piece of 1/2 inch plywood pocket holed into a 3/4 pine frame.
The fifth picture is fake panel door with molding trim.
The sixth picture shows side panel made same as door everything is attached to 2 x 2 frames that support top and 2 shelf's t nuts are on the inside of frames to hold it together and easier to assemble.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Most excellent, Gary!
One thing I noted, and you might want to reconsider:
The casters are fairly close to the vertical axis of the DP. There's a lot of mass up high...ie the centre of gravity.
Moving the wheels to a point as far away from that as possible (outwards) gives you a much more stable base (safety). 
Because they're casters, if the DP starts to tip sideways you won't be able to stop it...the wheels will just accelerate the toppling effect.
Mind you, having the cabinet loaded with weight inside it certainly helps bring the C. of G. down, making the assembly more stable....still(?).
Another way to 'kill the cat' might be to rotate the DP 90 deg., and centre it over the length. The only downside to that would be that the cabinet door would be on the side rather than the front. The good news is that you'd have a much wider base and you'd be able to stand closer to the DP table for accurate measuring etc., should you need to.
I know all of the above because my machinist buddy pointed this out to me regarding _my_ mobile base... *oops*


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I noticed that too. Good job on the cabinet. I have never used pocket holes like that before, learned something today.
on the casters, you could also take a 3/4' thick piece of plywood and cut it so it is a couple of inches wider than your cabinet,but the same width front to back and mount the casters as close to the corners as possible. Then set your cabinet on these, it will greatly increase the stability. Just a suggestion.

Herb


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Yup...wheels are a bit close to center...good thing is you will be using it on the long side...but be careful of putting in long pieces to drill.

...and don't make any sharp turns...


----------



## 163481 (Jul 8, 2015)

Nice looking cabinet, Gary. I might copy it...my drill press is still sitting on my Workmate, which effectively removes the Workmate from my tool inventory.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Great investment Gary . I want to build one myself someday . Would be great having drill bits right there when I need them


----------



## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Herb Stoops said:


> I noticed that too. Good job on the cabinet. I have never used pocket holes like that before, learned something today.
> on the casters, you could also take a 3/4' thick piece of plywood and cut it so it is a couple of inches wider than your cabinet,but the same width front to back and mount the casters as close to the corners as possible. Then set your cabinet on these, it will greatly increase the stability. Just a suggestion.
> 
> Herb


I agree. That could topple very easy and you would be sick.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Most excellent Gary...
gotta agree on the caster placement..


----------



## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I agree I built it for space. I got tired of moving around my shop for whatever available flat space it weights 80 or 90 pounds . Didn't use it much to hard to move now moves easy . I want to get a tool box that will fit on top shelf common used tools and drill bits. I will have to work on better wheel setup.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

gusset plate the bottom frame's joints w/ ¾'' ply glued and screwed into place for the casters or plate the enter bottom side to add a boat load of strength to the cabinet...


----------



## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Stick I think your idea of 3/4 ply screwed and glued to the bottom of cabinet is the right answer. I think I have a piece big enough in my pile of odds and ends.


----------



## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Stick your idea is the right answer 3/4 ply remount caster and glue and screw to the bottom of the cabinet. I think I have enough plywood in the odds and ends.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Gary, as Stick suggested, you only really need to do the left and right sides of the base's bottom...say 4" wide strips.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Gary, as Stick suggested, you only really need to do the left and right sides of the base's bottom...say 4" wide strips.


Id go w/ 6''...


----------



## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

I joined my base frame using loose tenons then added ply to the corners, glued and screwed, for castor mounting. Two screws into each piece and another 4 screws through the castor, ply and into the frame.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

vindaloo said:


> I joined my base frame using loose tenons then added ply to the corners, glued and screwed, for castor mounting. Two screws into each piece and another 4 screws through the castor, ply and into the frame.


would through bolting the cstors be a better plan???


----------



## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

There t bolted now I'll do the same again in case I need to replace. I'll probably use 2 6 inch piece across front and back. I just have to unbolt and reattach to the 2 pieces. Easy piezy.
Thanks everyone for your constructive criticism.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

the idea of the wider strip was for joint reinforcement...


----------



## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Nce looking project. I have a DP and BS on a homemade crappy table made from a piece of countertop and 2X4s. I might see about building something like yours to hold both of them or as separate units. Thanks to the ones pointing out the COG issue. Do any of the casters lock?


----------



## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> would through bolting the cstors be a better plan???


The coach screws I used are 40mm and a very deep thread.










Should be strong enough as I don't see moving the cabinet too often.


----------



## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

Knothead47 said:


> .........Do any of the casters lock?


I have the front 2 castors locking, rear are free moving.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

vindaloo said:


> The coach screws I used are 40mm and a very deep thread.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


those be lags here...


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Language is a funny thing, eh?
Over on this side of the pond, the item below is called a 'carriage bolt'.

Interesting how the wooden carriage construction connection is still with us.


----------



## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

DaninVan is correct. Carriage bolt is the industry name. Used to sell fasteners for a major company. As stick said, that is a lag screw.
I prefer my sister-in-law's name for various things- whatchamacallit.
Vindaloo, thanks for the reply and info on the casters.


----------



## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> those be lags here...





Knothead47 said:


> ........ As stick said, that is a lag screw..............


Ahem, I'm in the UK. They're coach screws here.

Timco In-Dex Exterior Coach Screws Organic Green 10 x 150mm 10 Pack | Exterior Coach Screws | Screwfix.com


----------



## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Egad, we didn't know you spoke proper English. Our mistake! Sort of like lorries, the lift at the office, bangers, etc. I have heard that you Brits enjoy bird watching. 0


----------



## oldyam (Aug 2, 2015)

We're quite partial to tea too .........


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I'm guessing the part that's common to both is whether the thread is a proper tapered screw or a machined 'bolt' thread.
In spite of the above, we call 6/32 8/32 and 10/32 machine_ screws _ rather than bolts. No idea why.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

larger than 10/32 w/ non-hex heads are considered stove bolts...


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Exactly! Why is that? 
Calling them 'bolts' rather than 'screws' I mean.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Diik....


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> Diik....



But Stick, you know everything!!!!!!

HJ


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

leaving the ''find out'' to somebuddy else for change...


----------



## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

and talking about the weather apparently


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

From DP cart, to proper English to bolt identification to bird watching to weather. Hummm. When it comes to carts, I now put two fixed wheels on the back, and two swivels with both wheel and swivel lock on the front. I also am partial to adding some sort of outrigger to put the wheels as far apart as possible. That usually means using a double layer of good ply to which I bold the casters. Don't forget the swivels can easily turn inward and reduce the base size, which is mitigated somewhat by the fixed rear wheels. 

On my band saw, I added some fold down wheels that lift out of the way to firmly plant the base on the floor. Picture attached. These would work on the cart as well. Here's the link WoodRiver 141550 Retracting Casters, Set of 4 - Table Saw Accessories - Amazon.com Although these were designed for angled bases, they work just as well on a case. Much stronger than they appear. And they will widen the base when moving the DP so less risk it will tip over. When folded up they have a smaller footprint. Cost for four is $50.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Screwed*



Stick486 said:


> Diik....


_"Richard is unavailable at this time. Please leave a number where you can be reached and Richard will return your call...maybe"
_

OK; I know Wiki isn't very highly regarded as a source, but this looked promising.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw#Differentiation_between_bolt_and_screw
:nerd:


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

daninvan said:


> _"richard is unavailable at this time. Please leave a number where you can be reached and richard will return your call...maybe"
> _
> 
> ok; i know wiki isn't very highly regarded as a source, but this looked promising.
> ...


1-555-555-5555....


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Yeh, well my area code is 666 (as you previously pointed out)


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Yeh, well my area code is 666 (as you previously pointed out)


so a joint operation would be AC 111111....


----------



## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I fixed the wheels moved the wheels out to the corners. Here is new photo.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

excellent...


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Nice solution.


----------



## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

It even looks more stable.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

The steel snap down casters I posted earlier have one other advantage I thought of while cleaning out the sawdust. When you snap the wheels up, the base is on the floor and sawdust can't get under it. In a small, equipment filled shop, moving carts around is not always easy or even possible. I'm going to make a cart like this with the snap down wheels. The base doesn't have to be very large that way and keeping the dust out from under is really appealing.


----------



## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I don't worry now when I move it thanks for the help.


----------



## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

DesertRatTom said:


> From DP cart, to proper English to bolt identification to bird watching to weather. Hummm... to fixed wheels on the back, ...to two swivels with both wheel and swivel lock on the front.


That´s why I love this forum!!!

Here is mine.Too heavy to move around the garage. Is not as beatiful as roofner´s but it works nicely.


----------



## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Yours isn't going anywhere that's a solid drill press cabinet.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

you left out the pads Alexis...


----------



## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

It's a working item, doesn't need to look pretty, just needs to be functional and that's what you got Alexis. I admire what you do with limited supplies.


----------



## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Thanks a lot for your comments, Angie. They are welcome!!!


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@papasombre...
you doing okay Alexis???


----------

