# Has anyone used a lock miter bit?



## dustmaster (Oct 14, 2004)

It looks pretty nice and seems to make a good joint. Do they come in different sizes or can one size be used for different widths of wood.
Any information is appreciated. (as always)


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

One bit will work with 1/2" and 3/4", just less material on the inside of the lock joint for 1/2". Neat idea isnt it?

Mike


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## Dustylayer (Sep 11, 2004)

I've used my CMT baby lockmiter on a number of projects. It will make a lock miter from 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick material.

There are several things I've learned about this bit set. Setup is critical and the hardest piece to cut is always the one machined vertically against the fence.
1. For the setup. the height of the bit and fence depth is crucial. To get it right, see John Lucas's tips under the A/B method for the lockmiter set at www.woodshopdemos.com. This is a simple and reliable method to produce a tight joint.
2. The router speed needs to be set just a bit higher than what is normally recommended for the diameter of the bit. I've experience cleaner cuts upping the speed just a bit higher.
3. For taller pieces (in width) than your router table fence is in height, a tall fence is really, really nice for holding the piece square.
4. A feather board holding the operation square when upright against the fence is critical.

I get good results with this method for plywood and softer woods, but I'm still working on my technique with hardwoods.


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## dustmaster (Oct 14, 2004)

Awesome, 
Thanks, this helps me know what to expect.


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## Dustylayer (Sep 11, 2004)

You are welcome! The bit set does a really nice job, except for end grain in hardwoods. The straw like nature of end grain, in oak especially has some challenges I haven't mastered yet. I think for my setup on my router table it will be in making a holding jig running the upright operation.

Now, having used the bit set, and where accuracy can be hidden, I've come to like table saw rips at 45 degrees, followed by my bisket joiner as a faster alternative. But the lock miter is definately a stronger looking joint.


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## dwwilson44 (Jul 13, 2006)

My problem with control has been with the vertical pieces, particularly for narrow pieces, such as small drawers. I get better cuts, almost no tear out and cleaner cuts by doing the vertical cust on as wide a piece as my router table can handle and then cutting with a table saw after that to the desired width. For example, I made a 25" vertical miter lock cut and then cut the piece into 4" pieces I needed for the drawers I was making. Since I am using plywood, having the extra 1" at the end took care of any end tear out. The bigger piece was much easier to control for a good cut.


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## dalefleury (Sep 10, 2004)

I have used the 45 degre locking miter for a couple of years now (just finished a job 2 days ago) and you can't beat it for strength and looks good as well.
A tip to make good clean cuts, both vertical and flat on the table:
Once you have the bit and fence set, take a 1/8" piece of plywood and double face tape it to the vertical of your fence, this keeps the pieces 1/8" away from their final cuts. Cut all your pieces and then remove the 1/8" plywood and recut all the pieces to their final cut.
I agree, good feather boards are a must...


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## michaelthomas1044 (Dec 27, 2010)

*Awesome!*

I recently have been using the lockmiter bit to make paneled looking box newels out of azek for an outdoor deck. This bit if you take the time to set it up properly and than save yourself two template blocks will leave you with extremely strong miter with minimal set up time.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

michaelthomas1044 said:


> I recently have been using the lockmiter bit to make paneled looking box newels out of azek for an outdoor deck. This bit if you take the time to set it up properly and than save yourself two template blocks will leave you with extremely strong miter with minimal set up time.


Hi Michael,

Welcome to the forum


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## michaelthomas1044 (Dec 27, 2010)

Thanks James,

I am just starting to research the things I can do with a router and table, everyone here has been a ton of help!


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## Mark Sternberg (Jan 16, 2010)

I have used them before but they can be finicky and a real pain in set up. One day I got frustrated and developed a router table that can go from vertical to horizontal and everything in between so I could use it to make spline joints. It works great and I only have to set it up once for both pieces and I can use it for any angle.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Mark Sternberg said:


> I have used them before but they can be finicky and a real pain in set up. One day I got frustrated and developed a router table that can go from vertical to horizontal and everything in between so I could use it to make spline joints. It works great and I only have to set it up once for both pieces and I can use it for any angle.


that's an innovative idea, Mark.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mark

I like it  , this is what I use to put in splines in on a angle ..works on almost all angles..I have it mounted in a bench vise, I just slide the stock by and the slot is put in place quick and easy..just one more way to get the job done...

4" Plate Joiner - Joiners - Power Tools

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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Mark - that's a nifty table. Now, all you need to do is add gearing, and then little motors to move the sections. Add a remote control, and a laser guide, and you'll have a commercial product.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I have 3 sizes of Lock Mitre bits. I use them quite a bit in MDF and hardwoods. I generally rout a long length, then cut it into pieces for the sides, rather than cut loads of small pieces. I always do my cuts at 2 depths, by moving the fence.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

bits plus See video on the web page

MLCS Lock Mitre Router Bits

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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

My set-up with a hollow fence to aid dust extraction.


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## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

Thanks for the tips and the link to tthe setup guide. This is one of the bits I really want to try as soon as my new set from elite gets delivered ( Tuesday according to UPS).
Planning on doing some small boxes for my daughter and grandaughter from 1/2" oak and thought this joint would provid better strength than a standard miter.


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## drbbob (Sep 26, 2009)

These bits look pretty nifty. I was just wondering how they would hold up over time for drawer boxes. I will be making cabinets for my kitchen this spring and dovetails are pretty time consuming when you have to make a lot of drawers,


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

I would not suggest the Lock Mitre bit for drawers you can make a drawers in 5 mins.or less with the right dovetail jig..

Katie jig

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drbbob said:


> These bits look pretty nifty. I was just wondering how they would hold up over time for drawer boxes. I will be making cabinets for my kitchen this spring and dovetails are pretty time consuming when you have to make a lot of drawers,


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## drbbob (Sep 26, 2009)

Hey Bob J.... This might sound stupid, but.............
what is the reason you would not use these bits for drawer boxes ? I thought I saw some bits from Amana that were made for that. Or we talking about two different bits ? I have a porter cable dove tail jig, but the set up time varies from quick to " I think its nap time." The stock has to centered between the fingers, or the off set will be off. That's why I thought it would be quicker to rout the stock and then cut it to size. ( My boss wants a lot of different size drawers in her cabinets. )


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

drbbob said:


> Hey Bob J.... This might sound stupid, but.............
> what is the reason you would not use these bits for drawer boxes ? I thought I saw some bits from Amana that were made for that. Or we talking about two different bits ? I have a porter cable dove tail jig, but the set up time varies from quick to " I think its nap time." The stock has to centered between the fingers, or the off set will be off. That's why I thought it would be quicker to rout the stock and then cut it to size. ( My boss wants a lot of different size drawers in her cabinets. )


Hi Bob.
What type of dovetails are you trying to make. Half-blind dovetails are quick to make once set up & are the preferred for drawers. Through-dovetails are more for boxes. The first setup shouldn't take long as long as you use some basic measurements when sizing your drawers. After that you do not need to change any settings even if you change thickness of material as the joints are referenced off he inside of the joint. If having any problems post it & we will see if we can help adjust it for you.

There is another bit that looks like the lock miter bit but it is a little different. It is a drawer lock bit. It has a little different profile.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

The lock M. bit is one of the hardest bit to setup and use, it needs that very fine edge on all the parts, if it's off by just a little you just made some fire wood, the drawer needs to be dead on, with the Through-dovetails all that's needed is to cut the parts for the drawer to fit in the hole..put the dovetails in place and you are done and it's very strong ,many don't like to see the dovetails of the front side of the drawer but a easy fix with the same stock as the panels/doors etc.glued/screw to the front side of the drawers, no need to use the best high end wood for the drawers, many like to see a overlay on the drawers and by using the glue and screw way it's a easy job,,keep it in the KISS way..  once the drawer box is in the hole it's easy job to put the fronts on..unlike the blind or the M.L. way..

Don't forget about the drawer guides if you going to use them,they need room in the hole to work ,that's why you need to use the glue on fronts the norm. 

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drbbob said:


> Hey Bob J.... This might sound stupid, but.............
> what is the reason you would not use these bits for drawer boxes ? I thought I saw some bits from Amana that were made for that. Or we talking about two different bits ? I have a porter cable dove tail jig, but the set up time varies from quick to " I think its nap time." The stock has to centered between the fingers, or the off set will be off. That's why I thought it would be quicker to rout the stock and then cut it to size. ( My boss wants a lot of different size drawers in her cabinets. )


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I don't even try to use the MITER lock bits anymore, they are a hassle.


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## drbbob (Sep 26, 2009)

Maybe I shouldn't have gotten into the dovetail jig discussion. I now know that a miter lock bit and a drawer lock bit are two different animals. so-- has anyone had any luck using a drawer lock bit ? Are they as big a pain as a miter lock bit ?


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Actually, no, the drawer lock bit is simpler to use. I meant miter lock bit, I mis-typed.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

drbbob said:


> Maybe I shouldn't have gotten into the dovetail jig discussion. I now know that a miter lock bit and a drawer lock bit are two different animals. so-- has anyone had any luck using a drawer lock bit ? Are they as big a pain as a miter lock bit ?


Hi Bob,
The drawer lock bit is much easier to setup. As for the lock miter bit for drawer boxes I have done this once for a customer. He wanted the joints to be put together with a lock miter. The drawers work fine but not worth the amount of work to get right for drawer boxes. I use this bit for columns & newels were you need a strong mitered corner joint. 

If using an applied drawer front or not I would stick with the half-blind dovetail or the drawer lock bit. For kitchen cabs & bath vanities I use the half-blind dovetails. My Porter Cable jig is always setup & ready for a drawer project. Just have to cut my drawer sizes accordingly for centered joints which is no problem.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

drbbob said:


> Hey Bob J.... This might sound stupid, but.............
> what is the reason you would not use these bits for drawer boxes ? I thought I saw some bits from Amana that were made for that. Or we talking about two different bits ? I have a porter cable dove tail jig, but the set up time varies from quick to " I think its nap time." The stock has to centered between the fingers, or the off set will be off. That's why I thought it would be quicker to rout the stock and then cut it to size. ( My boss wants a lot of different size drawers in her cabinets. )


 Hi Bob,
Setting up your jig is not really that hard or time consuming once you understand the drawer sizing. PC uses 1” increments for the joint spacing. To have a joint with half pins top & bottom for a centered joint the sizing of drawer parts are 1” increments + 1/4” so your drawer parts will be ripped to 2-1/4” 3-1/4”, 4-1/4”, 5-1/4” etc. The jig has stops to offset your parts & each corner joint is machined at the same time. Design your drawer openings with these sizes in mind.

If you have a drawer opening of 5” your drawer box height would be the 4-1/4”. If using side mount slides this is enough room top to bottom. If using undermount slides I would suggest add an extra 1/8” to the height of the opening for a little extra room or use the 3-1/4” drawer height. You can use ¼” ply for the drawer bottoms. You can route a ¼” dado ½” up from the bottom. This will put the groove in the center of the tails & will not be seen when opening the drawer.

Your bit height will be in the neighborhood of 5/8" from the base of you router. 1/4" for the dovetail template & 3/8" for the joint. That should get you in the ballpark. You just need to fine tune it very little to get the tightness of fit you desire. Once you find your sweet spot you can route all your parts off this same setting using 1/2" t0 1-1/8" material. The joints will always fit the same.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

*Glad you Posted that jlord*



jlord said:


> Hi Bob,
> Setting up your jig is not really that hard or time consuming once you understand the drawer sizing. PC uses 1” increments for the joint spacing. To have a joint with half pins top & bottom for a centered joint the sizing of drawer parts are 1” increments + 1/4” so your drawer parts will be ripped to 2-1/4” 3-1/4”, 4-1/4”, 5-1/4” etc. The jig has stops to offset your parts & each corner joint is machined at the same time. Design your drawer openings with these sizes in mind.
> 
> If you have a drawer opening of 5” your drawer box height would be the 4-1/4”. If using side mount slides this is enough room top to bottom. If using undermount slides I would suggest add an extra 1/8” to the height of the opening for a little extra room or use the 3-1/4” drawer height. You can use ¼” ply for the drawer bottoms. You can route a ¼” dado ½” up from the bottom. This will put the groove in the center of the tails & will not be seen when opening the drawer.
> ...


I finally got to aquaint myself with my new PC Dovetail Jig this weekend...... jlord, I wish you had written the manual for PC as what you wrote would have saved me a lot of time and frustration. I won't kidnap this thread but will likely be asking for some clarity on the PC Dovetail jig in the near future as well as some helpful hints and will look forward to your response


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## codafile (Jan 29, 2011)

Wowww, all set to make/replace drawers in my kitchen cabinet after reading the reviews, now bobj3 dos'nt recommend this type of joint, is there a valid reason for this?


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