# Router edge jointing



## phillipsted (Sep 26, 2014)

I've been having a problem getting consistent results when edge routing and wanted to see if I could get some advice/tips from the Forum. I've read a good deal about setup and technique - and I've gotten some good results, but they aren't consistent.

Here's my setup:

- Triton TRA-01 mounted in a Jessem table with Woodpecker insert.
- Using a Freud 1/2" straight bit that is 2" long. Bit is held in a Musclechuck.
- Have the Jessem outfeed inserts installed on the left fence for a 1/32" cut
- Double and triple checked: the bit and fence are square with the table.
- I carefully align the bit so the outfeed fence is exactly tangent to the bit.

Here's where I get inconsistent results. Before beginning, I double-check that the workpiece's face is flat and the edge is reasonably straight. I push the workpiece against the fence and feed it through the bit. Even though the edge is pretty straight (within 1/32") and flat against the fence, I seldom see the bit joint the entire edge all the way down the length of the workpiece - resulting in a non-straight edge which gets worse the succeeding passes. I've tried different placement of featherboards and always keep my hands (or pushstick) on the workpiece.

I know I'm doing something wrong here - and I wanted to get some critique from the pros here. Thanks!

TedP


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## Bodger96 (Mar 18, 2014)

Unfortunately jointing even on a jointer takes proper technique. Once you practice your technique you should start to see better results. We have students that watch the proper way once and they can now joint a board perfectly flat and straight. We have other students that take a couple of hours of practice in order to perform the same task. The trick is to not give up. 

Regards Bob


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

Start by holding the wood against the right side fence until there's enough to hold it against the right side fence. Then hold it tight against the right side fence.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

vindaloo said:


> Start by holding the wood against the right side fence until there's enough to hold it against the right side fence. Then hold it tight against the right side fence.



.???


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

Semipro said:


> .???


I know, I just re-read it..... Blonde moment!!!

Feed from right, holding against right (infeed) fence. When there's enough to hold against the left (outfeed) fence hold it tight against that. That looks better.


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdHvU-IeEJU from 6 minutes in


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Is it possible the two fences are not in alignment...? Put a straightedge across both when offset is in place and check for parallel on the infeed space. Should be the same from one end to the other.

What works for me is a featherboard on out feed and one on infeed...

Good luck...Nick

EDIT...how long is the piece and is it possible you might need to make the fence longer to accommodate the curves in the wood ?


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Your fence is deflecting.
More on this.


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## mseries (Sep 16, 2012)

You workpiece isn't straight is my opinion on this. You start with one end on the RH fence and the other end off the fence to the right so that the workpiece touches the RH end of the RH fence somewhere in the middle (of the workpiece). You slide it left towards and over the cutter. If the workpiece is concave it will move away from the cutter as the curved middle is slid along the RH end of the RH fence. A workpiece shorter than the RH fence will not have this problem, except maybe when the LH end leaves the LH end of hte RH fence before it contacts the LH fence. 

Solutions
Dead straight workpiece
Longer fences, longer than the workpiece
Guide the workpiece with something other than the fences.


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## mseries (Sep 16, 2012)

You workpiece isn't straight is my opinion on this. You start with one end on the RH fence and the other end off the fence to the right so that the workpiece touches the RH end of the RH fence somewhere in the middle (of the workpiece). You slide it left towards and over the cutter. If the workpiece is concave it will move away from the cutter as the curved middle is slid along the RH end of the RH fence. A workpiece shorter than the RH fence will not have this problem, except maybe when the LH end leaves the LH end of hte RH fence before it contacts the LH fence. 

Solutions
Dead straight workpiece
Longer fences, longer than the workpiece
Guide the workpiece with something other than the fences.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

I also plan to do some jointing using a router table. Even though I have not yet ever done one, I have done a lot of reading on it. Here's something I plan to try for wood that may not be straight. First I'll run my workpiece through a table saw to get a reasonably straight edge, cutting it wider than my final desired width. This may require some sort of jig depending on how badly the workpiece is bowed. You can use a taper jig to straighten up a board on the table saw. But once I have a reasonably straight board, that is slightly wider, then I will take it to the router table and joint it, cleaning up the saw blade marks on the edge and also taking it down to the final desired width.


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## phillipsted (Sep 26, 2014)

Thanks for everyone's replies. Here's what I've uncovered about my problem, based on your advice:

1. *Technique is critical*. I spent a lot of time and a few dozen test cuts working on my hand placement and pressure on the workpiece. This resulted in *much* more consistent results.

2. *Fence/bit alignment is key.* I played around with different methods for aligning the outfeed fence with the edge of the bit and found that my results varied significantly with less than a hundreth of an inch difference. Once I hit the zone, it was much smoother. "Finicky" is the best description I could come up with.

3. *Stock that isn't straight won't joint correctly.* I guess I already knew this, but I've always relied on the jointer to smooth out small variations, and it generally does - up to a point. But there is a tipping point where a non-straight piece of stock will only get worse when run through the jointer.

4. *Bit size matters.* I tried several different bits in addition to my main jointing bit (Freud 2.5" x 1/2" straight bit). I found that I got the best results with larger diameter bits. For 3/4" or thinner stock, I'm going to use a 1.5" diameter rabetting bit with a 1" cutter length. The greater mass and diameter seems to give a cleaner cut.

Again, thanks for the advice and counsel, guys!

TedP


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

phillipsted said:


> Thanks for everyone's replies. Here's what I've uncovered about my problem, based on your advice:
> 
> 3. *Stock that isn't straight won't joint correctly.* I guess I already knew this, but I've always relied on the jointer to smooth out small variations, and it generally does - up to a point. But there is a tipping point where a non-straight piece of stock will only get worse when run through the jointer.
> 
> TedP


Ted...
did you try a router, down shear flush trim bit and a straight edge for straightening your stock???


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## phillipsted (Sep 26, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> Ted...
> did you try a router, down shear flush trim bit and a straight edge for straightening your stock???


Thanks, Stick. Good suggestion - never used this trick. This is next on my list to try. 

TedP


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

phillipsted said:


> 4. *Bit size matters.* I tried several different bits in addition to my main jointing bit (Freud 2.5" x 1/2" straight bit). I found that I got the best results with larger diameter bits. For 3/4" or thinner stock, I'm going to use a 1.5" diameter rabetting bit with a 1" cutter length. The greater mass and diameter seems to give a cleaner cut.
> 
> Again, thanks for the advice and counsel, guys!
> 
> TedP


I would tend to agree just based on geometry. As an example, if you were using a 1/2" D bit and taking 1/4" cut (that's a lot I know, but this is just an example) at the point where the cutter exits the wood the cutter is moving at a right angle to the grain which would encourage tear out. A much larger cutter would be moving at a shallower angle more parallel to the grain. That would also imply that no matter which bit you use if you only take a few thou off you are more likely to get a smooth cut with no tear out.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Ted; did I miss something? I got the impression that you have a single fence, not a split fence(?). 
To duplicate the action of a jointer, you need to have a very slight front to back offset between the infeed and outfeed side...equivalent to the amount you're shaving off as it passes the cutter. Eg. a setback of 1/32" so that when the board comes through, it's riding on the new narrower dimension on the outfeed side.
Just ignore this if you're already doing that.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

My bad...I just reread your O.P....you're already doing the 1/32"thing on the outfeed side. But that does limit you to removing 1/32".


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

*Edge Jointing*



Duane Bledsoe said:


> I also plan to do some jointing using a router table. Even though I have not yet ever done one, I have done a lot of reading on it. Here's something I plan to try for wood that may not be straight. First I'll run my workpiece through a table saw to get a reasonably straight edge, cutting it wider than my final desired width. This may require some sort of jig depending on how badly the workpiece is bowed. You can use a taper jig to straighten up a board on the table saw. But once I have a reasonably straight board, that is slightly wider, then I will take it to the router table and joint it, cleaning up the saw blade marks on the edge and also taking it down to the final desired width.


Instead of straightening a board with a taper jig on the table saw make yourself an L Fence for your table saw. With this jig you can make the board edge straight.


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