# Freud FT2000e Died, Need help



## Dekker (May 7, 2008)

No, not woodworking help, but electrical help! First the story, then the question...

I have an FT2000e that I have kept table-mounted for a couple years now. I was using it yesterday (table mounted) to rout edges on a series of panels and as I was switching panels, I heard the router give a "warble". I quickly reached for the power switch and switched it off. I had an experience once of a router bit moving vertically, and I had a nightmare of my bit having come loose and about to fly free, but I'm glad to say it was not that...

So I look things over, everything looks fine, the bit is still firmly attached, so I flip the switch back on: NOTHING.

The sound I had heard can be best described as the sound a Formula-1 car makes when its RPMs are restricted by its engine limiter, like the router was not firing on all cylinders.

I took the thing apart, blew out the dust, tested again, but no luck. I then got out my volt-meter, and did some continuity-probing (without being plugged in), and everything "looks" OK, with two exceptions... The variable-speed control is not showing any continuity between the in-and-out leads (of course, with no power applied). Secondly, one of the brushes has an edge missing.

Questions:
========
So my real question is, does anyone know whether the speed-control should have continuity with no voltage, or only with voltage?

And secondly, would that small chip in the brush cause the failure to start? Any way to test/eliminate that as a possibility? I'm reasonably competent electrically, but without knowing what appropriate values are, I can't self-diagnose it...

And finally, does anyone have a service-manual for the router, or is the assembly diagram the best/only information available?

Yes, a long post, but thought I'd be thorough


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi, if you have a repair shop close by, I'd pick up a new brush. They aren't that much and easy to replace. If you still have your manual, there should be specs listed somewhere, it should give you the proper values. As for the speed control, I can't answer, never tested one, actually, never had a reason too. 

You may also want to contact CharlesM here on the forums, he works for Freud, he may be able to give you some better answer(s).


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

You know you have a bad brush, so the first step is to replace the pair of brushes. Odds are your controller has failed as well, but go one step at a time. If the router is used exclusively in a table you can bypass the controller and use an external speed controller instead. The things that cause controller failure are heat and vibration, and common sense will tell you a larger speed controller mounted to the table as opposed to in the router will get less vibration and dissipate heat faster. This is why I own a pair of Bosch 1617's instead of the 1617EVS models.


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

Hi Dekker,

Welcome to the group. Sorry to hear of the problem with your router. The brushes should definitely be replaced and the speed module tested by a Freud authorized repair center. There will be no continuity through the module. When operating properly it will output voltage to the field. The exploded parts view is the only information available relative to the inner workings.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dekker

The days of a tech. replacing a part on a board are gone ,do what most shops now do now, just replace the brushes and the speed control device and be done with it...I think I would replace the brushes 1st. then if you still have a error replace the speed control device... 

I would not bypass the control device it's one things you want and I'm sure that's why you put out the extra money out a for the router 2 years ago..
fix it right and it will sever you will for many more years...the parts you need should not be that high in price and maybe with some luck you may get the speed control device free  they do have some that had errors on them I'm sure...

JUST as a side note ,,,we have a 2 year old ref.( HotPoint that we got from HD) and it stop runing and the server tech. came out and said it only had a one year warr.but the Fac. would pay for this repair, he pull the Ref. out pull the cover off the computer board, snapped in a new board and it was up and running again in less than 5 mins. and all at no charge..  so to say they sometimes they put in bad parts at the Fac. and some do fail but they know that by others having the same error...if I recall this right some one on the forum had the same error...


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Dekker said:


> No, not woodworking help, but electrical help! First the story, then the question...
> 
> I have an FT2000e that I have kept table-mounted for a couple years now. I was using it yesterday (table mounted) to rout edges on a series of panels and as I was switching panels, I heard the router give a "warble". I quickly reached for the power switch and switched it off. I had an experience once of a router bit moving vertically, and I had a nightmare of my bit having come loose and about to fly free, but I'm glad to say it was not that...
> 
> ...


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## Dekker (May 7, 2008)

*Solution: Buy a new one*

Well, it's been a few weeks, and here's the update. (Thanks for all the suggestions everyone!)

I brought it to a shop and the tech agreed with my prognosis. So I ordered a replacement speed controller for the router (95$). A week and a bit later I get the call that it has come in, and discover it is the wrong part! Well, not quite. The one I needed was part number xx15, they sent xx16, which is the replacement for the 15, but newer. They were nice enough to include some instructions and a couple small parts to convert my existing router to handle the new controller.

BUT, the last line in the instructions read: If your router does not have the threaded shaft, you will need to replace the armature as well.

WHAT!!?? Of course, mine is not threaded, and so I'm looking at another $125? to replace the armature of the router (the main body that spins...) With that investment (225) I may as well consider replacing the router! 

So for now I left the part at the shop, and am window shopping for a new router. I need one ASAP to finish the project I'm in the middle of. I'll probably keep my eye out for pawn shop duds and classifieds for a used/dead Freud FT2000 so I can steal its controller (my router body is pristine!).

I'm somewhat disappointed in Freud though, to not continue offering the existing part. I'd pay the same $95 to get the same old controller, even knowing that it might die in another 2-3 years. I just can't justify spending over 200 for parts that will get me 90 days warranty, when a brand new one is 350 with 5 years.

Now I'm going to have to look at other brands again, but this time I'll be keeping a better eye on the repairability of the router! Oh well, yet another review to add to my blogs!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dekker

This is what I would do ,, just put it to one side and use it for parts or drop a dime and check with the company below...

I did get one (ft2000e) off Amazon for 115.oo bucks it was a factory recondititon one and I'm very happy with it...90 warr.day thing..
I don't recall the name of the company that reworked the router but if you ask I will find the invoice and post it..
Here's the phone number that was on the box 336-434-3171 ,I'm sure they sell them all the time..

And for a long shot they just may have the right speed control for your router..at the right price... 

here's one more long shot
AAA motors is a member of the forum and he did post that he repairs routers, he just may have a good used one , can't hurt to ask 

http://www.routerforums.com/members/aaa-motors-15347.html
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Dekker said:


> Well, it's been a few weeks, and here's the update. (Thanks for all the suggestions everyone!)
> 
> I brought it to a shop and the tech agreed with my prognosis. So I ordered a replacement speed controller for the router (95$). A week and a bit later I get the call that it has come in, and discover it is the wrong part! Well, not quite. The one I needed was part number xx15, they sent xx16, which is the replacement for the 15, but newer. They were nice enough to include some instructions and a couple small parts to convert my existing router to handle the new controller.
> 
> ...


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

Dekker,

Sorry to hear that the part is not available. We are constantly working to improve our tools so parts will occasionally be changed. We try to keep parts available for at least 10 years and in this case I believe the router you have is at least that old. Please bear in mind that the rebuild you refer to would result in a tool that is like new for considerably less cost than a new one.


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## rslater (Mar 17, 2010)

Hello Dekker, just finished reading your post about the Freud. I have the same router, same problem, made same call to Freud. The fellow told me I should be more careful next time and not spend my money on a piece of old obsolete junk. ZAP !. Mine still runs but only on high speed, fellow from Freud said don't use it as it was running too fast and would self destruct. They can fix it , but it will take a new armature, at about 195.00. Speed control cannot be bypassed unit will not work with external speed control. the soft start- speed control is part of armature wiring. Only choice is to find a working speed control from a ft2000, or ft2200 router which was not made for very long because of this problem. I was not impressed with the guy from Freud who kept referring to his tool as an obsolete piece of junk. I told him I have porta cable routers that are 20 years old and still running and I can get parts for most of the time. He was not helpful and not impressed by my Portacable story. It' a good thing I have a Makita and a couple of other routers around, so that I don't miss having the Freud to use. If any one knows of or comes across a speed control a post would probable be welcome. Dick


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Richard

You do realise the previous post is 22 months ago, don't you ?

Cheers

Peter


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## rslater (Mar 17, 2010)

LOL, LOL, yes I do or should say I realized it shortly after I posted. I was tunnel focused on freud router problems and not paying attention. Also, I am new here and just getting the lay of the forum. I needed a good laugh even if it was on me. Dick


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## Fleetnet (Jul 6, 2010)

*FT 2000e issues too*

Same thing happened to me yesterday.
Similar troubleshooting methods with the same ambiguities.
Freud's web page was less than helpful, so I took a run up to Ted's Power Tool Repair here in Saskatoon and showed him my router.
Minutes later, he had it apart and quickly declared that my 10+ year old router was in need of a new pair of brushes, not the expensive variable speed controller as I feared.
New parts ordered from Toronto, and hopefully here in 5 days for about $30
shipping included. 
Happier now.... but my daughter's wine rack will have to wait another while.

:happy:



Dekker said:


> No, not woodworking help, but electrical help! First the story, then the question...
> 
> I have an FT2000e that I have kept table-mounted for a couple years now. I was using it yesterday (table mounted) to rout edges on a series of panels and as I was switching panels, I heard the router give a "warble". I quickly reached for the power switch and switched it off. I had an experience once of a router bit moving vertically, and I had a nightmare of my bit having come loose and about to fly free, but I'm glad to say it was not that...
> 
> ...


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## pitsawyer (Dec 7, 2010)

I have had the same problem with two ft200e's. In both cases it was the switch. Rather than replace it I removed the switch and sanded the contacts. I both cases It worked great.
The switch is easy to take apart and a very simple design. Sawdust will get inside the case and stop the contacts from touching. a swipe with 320 sandpaper is all Mine needed.
You can test the switch by removing the top of the router and simply hooking the black and *********** cable to the black and red wires. If it runs when you plug it in it is the switch.
Goog luck


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## warnerk (Dec 2, 2011)

*Dead Freud FT 2000E*

Glad I stumbled on this thread. I don't care how old it is because my 2000e just died the same way. I will try the switch cleaning and brushes first.
I also fell for a new FT 3000 and am awaiting it's delivery - need that variable speed!

Many thanks to all commentators.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Many forget the router is not made to be used upside down all the time, my Freud 2000 ,I have one in each router table,must be removed from the table from time to time to blow out the tons of router dust and the switch is a real trap for it,it can't work if it's full of dust  it just takes a little bit of dust inside the switch and it will not work, once you take one down to parts you will see why it will just stop working..it's best to not use it at all in the router table just add a remote switch to the table and let it be once you have it on ...and up and running 

Just a note you can by pass the switch very easy..on the Freud.
The brushes will not make the error it's item that's almost shelf cleaning so to speak..

==

==


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## simon clark (Feb 18, 2012)

Hi Everyone.
This is my first post.
I have the Freud FT 2000VCE 1900w V2. The variable speed controller is faulty as described in these earlier posts.
I can't see an alternative but to bypassing the controller - even if it might self-destruct as the cost of replacement parts are not justified.

How is the bypass carried out? Anyone got a wiring diagram or notes please?

Thanks.

Simon.


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## BrianH (4 mo ago)

Most of these posts are a decade old, but I'm having issues with my Freud FT2000e. Seems the bearing has worn, but I can't find any directions on how to change it out. Any help?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, @BrianH ....

Youtube is usually my friend to find solutions such as this.

Did you search the forum to see if anyone else has had that issue?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Here is a copy of the manual, if that helps..


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum @BrianH


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## BrianH (4 mo ago)

jw2170 said:


> Welcome to the forum, @BrianH ....
> 
> Youtube is usually my friend to find solutions such as this.
> 
> Did you search the forum to see if anyone else has had that issue?


Thanks for the response; I've had no luck on YouTube finding a video for Freud other than someone turning one on and then off. Not much help. I've only just joined this forum, so I thought I might save time by responding to the only thread I found, even if it was an older one, to solicit a response. I've now removed the micro-adjuster cap and subsequently able to pull the motor and armature from the base, but no idea how to remove the bearing from the armature. The armature spins effortlessly and I don't notice any grind or resistance from the bearings. Not sure what else would cause that noise, and every discussion I've seen advises that it is most likely the bearing.


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