# On/Off Switch for Table Mounted Router



## blindsniper (Aug 21, 2011)

Hi all,

Forgive me if this topic has already been covered.

I need to know how you switch a table-mounted router on or of without doing it inder the table. Any ideas for me?

regards

Ian


----------



## billg71 (Mar 25, 2011)

If you're electrically handy you can cobble up something pretty quickly with a switch box, switch, outlet and any old extension cord.

If not, you might try either of these:

MLCS 9078

MLCS 9079

HTH,
Bill


----------



## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

Bill,

Those all assume no interlock on the router when power si cut by te sitch. Isn;t that a problem?


----------



## billg71 (Mar 25, 2011)

Big Steve said:


> Bill,
> 
> Those all assume no interlock on the router when power si cut by te sitch. Isn;t that a problem?


I guess it would be a problem, I never ran across a router like that. Which ones are you familiar with that behave that way? I'd say that a router isn't safe for table use if you can't turn it on and off without reaching under the table....

All my routers work fine with an external switch, even the two Festools. Never really thought about it... 

I guess that's something you need to research before buying a table router.

Thanx,
Bill


----------



## woodworker478 (Feb 21, 2012)

*Router Switch*

You can purchase a remote switch from any number of companies. Peachtree Woodworking is where I got mine. Around $30.00 if I recall.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I went thru that with the last router table I made. Major pain reaching under, so attached a power strip outside, whic worked, but was not quite what I wanted. Then ran across an inexpensive foot switch from Harbor Freight.
Just what I wanted. I've got back problems, so sit to rout, which works fine, and just put my foot on the switch when I want power, take it off when I don't. And, if something happens and I jerk back, it takes my foot off the switch sort of automatically, so I don't have to think about turning the router off, it's al ready off. 
Probably too expensive for you to order from them, but I'm pretty sure you can find something similar. 
I use it on my other power tools also. A bit irritating when I forget, move my foot, and lose power to my tool, but it more than makes up for it when there's something that startles me and I move back, automatic shutoff. That's the way I do it.


----------



## dalepenkala (Feb 1, 2012)

I agree with Bill. I got mine from Rockler dealer in Hemlock, Mi. 29.99.


----------



## argoknot (Dec 7, 2009)

This is how I have mine set up.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Me too here's just one more way,can't have to many outlets on the router table,for lights and Vac.system,etc.3 gang box it almost as cheap as one for a one outlet device.

http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/9761-how-wire-one-up.html

==



argoknot said:


> This is how I have mine set up.


----------



## argoknot (Dec 7, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi John
> 
> Me too here's just one more way,can't have to many outlets on the router table,for lights and Vac.system,etc.3 gang box it almost as cheap as one for a one outlet device.
> 
> ...


You got that right Bob. To me home made is better and cheaper.


----------



## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

A thought on that multi outlet setup... All those outlets are switched. You might want some switched (router for sure and perhaps vacuum/dust collector) and one unswitched (lighting etc.)


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Ian:

Hunt around your local electrical suppliers for one of these paddle switches. I've wired it to the plug and I have a male plug on the bottom to connect an extension cord. It's large and positionned at knee level. I don't have to let go of a workpiece to kill the router. Bailed me out of many a sticky wicket.

This works so well that many of my tools are setup to use it. I have two. Any time I'm not completely secure about an operation, out comes a panic switch.


----------



## Greyone (Dec 24, 2010)

Well, not being an enginerring maven I simply dismantled my Craftsman router table/router combo and used the switch. I also used the table as a template for installing the router on my new table saw mount router table router plate. GRRR and then went out and bought a better router so have it to do all over again.


----------



## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello:
magnetic switch examlple:
H8240 110V Magnetic On/Off Switch

Those swiches off in case of power loss and then got to be re- starded.
Big red panic button adds a bit of safety.
Some can be bought already wired, but i don' remember Where.
Then a foot-switch can be wired between this switch and the router plug ,anyway, its sometime the most usefull.
I keep a footswitch , its usefull.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Keep in mind before opting to buy anything mentioned here that you are probably on a different power sysytem than what the devices were designed to be used on. Everything suggested is for 120 volt 60 cycle power.


----------



## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello!
Cherryville Chuck
You'r right Grizzly's one is made for 110 to 120 v 

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/h8240_m.pdf
I don't know what they got in south africa..

But the magnetic safety switch exist also for 220-240v .
also for triphas 380 ;400v It's the one every workshop machine must have by law ,
here in France.

Regards


----------



## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

A magnetic switch also must match the current(amps) rating of the controlled device in order to work properly. I would not recommend it for a router myself. JMHO.


----------



## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello Dmeadows!


It's true That reading from the pdf doc, grizzli's one is not the good one.
http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/h8240_m.pdf

Sorry for grizzly, forget it it! is strangely rated 16 Amps , but only a 1/2 Hp , Not enought! 
True also that with 120v 16 Amps not so much .. a bit more than 2 HP

Sure it must me correctly rated!

Got a magnetic switch on my table router, press drill, combinated table saw -joiner-thicknesser, and more.

And now they are installed with every stationery workshop-machine.

Been doing some machine repairs and installed some on pretty big machines.

I'm using group schneider telemecanique relays and switches industry type .

Regards


----------



## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Duplicate post


----------



## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Hi Gerard,

Those machines all have induction motors with relatively steady current. I not sure a universal motor with soft start would hold the magnetic switch long enough to get up to speed before the switch kicked out! Never tried it, never seen it used. Might work... but not for me!


----------



## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Dmeadows said:


> Hi Gerard,
> 
> Those machines all have induction motors with relatively steady current. I not sure a universal motor with soft start would hold the magnetic switch long enough to get up to speed before the switch kicked out! Never tried it, never seen it used. Might work... but not for me!


Hello!

Of course it works !

It does not need a current load to stay on working state, it needs a main
supplies to stay on, When mains stops for any reason, it then goes back to off state.

Regards


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

i have a simple setup ... a light switch that that switches power to a 2-outlet box. that is plugged into a standard power strip.

it is a modular setup ... it is on a 3/4" board with a couple of 1/4" holes that allows it to be mounted anywhere i need it. i use 1/4-20 bolts and homemede knobs for pretty much everything.

then i can plug in my shop vac and router and have them both turn on an off at the flip of the switch.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I will 2nd your post Chris, a switch is a switch, why pay 25.oo + for one with a big red button on it.
All that's needed is a 1.29 ,15/20 amp.switch.

See the last link on this post ▼

If you want to spend the money the switch below is made just for that job , it holds back the Vac.system until the router motor is up and running and will run the Vac.system just a little bit longer when you power the router down to clean out chips in the tube.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17351&site=ROCKLER

Intelligent plug-in switch automatically controls a vacuum or dust collector through the power tool’s on/off switch! Eliminates continual running of vacuum to preserve the vacuum motor life. Ideal for miter saws, table saws, sanders, routers and planers. 
Easy to install — just plug it in! Can be used with any standard 15 amp/125 volt wet/dry vacuum or dust collector system (max 1.0 HP) or power feed unit. 
I got one and it's OK but Not a must have item
==



Chris Curl said:


> i have a simple setup ... a light switch that that switches power to a 2-outlet box. that is plugged into a standard power strip.
> 
> it is a modular setup ... it is on a 3/4" board with a couple of 1/4" holes that allows it to be mounted anywhere i need it. i use 1/4-20 bolts and homemede knobs for pretty much everything.
> 
> then i can plug in my shop vac and router and have them both turn on an off at the flip of the switch.


----------



## chaplainpilot (Oct 13, 2011)

I too used a HF foot switch, inexpensive. I ran the plug underneath and attached the foot switch to the bottom of the router.

Merritt


----------



## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

ggom20 said:


> Hello!
> 
> Of course it works !
> 
> ...


I stand corrected.. it will indeed stay on without a load! However there is still the issue of overload current range and high cost.


----------



## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

One can live without a relay switch !

*The nice idea is to switch vaccum the same moment as the table.*

Regards


----------



## KennK (Mar 7, 2012)

I was all excited about the idea of plugging both my router and the shop vac into my new router table ... but then I added up the combined amperage and its way more than the 15 amps that the switch is rated for. Oh well.

Eventually I hope to actually measure the amperage in use and see how high they really get in use.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

I have 15 amp.light switch's on all my router tables (6 ea.) and I have not had a problem with any of them but you can get a hvy. duty one rated at 20 amps. for just a little bit more money..about 3.oo bucks..the norm..but I use 20 amp. lines in the shop that's to say all the outlets are on a 20 amp. breakers..to help with the over load at times when running the tank routers (3 1/2HP).

==


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I had regular light switchs on mine for awhile and electrically they work fine. Worked OK to turn the thing on too but I found myself having to look for it to shut it down so I went ahead and put one of these on:
H8242 220V Paddle On/Off Switch.
I admit I changed it rather quickly as I wasn't comfortable with it. Had I left it in there I would probably gotten used to it. I still like the safety paddle better though, just not the $30 or so that Rockler and the others are getting for them.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I use the 
"Deadman" Foot Pedal it's cheaper and all I need to is lift my foot up and the router is dead then I can just pull the plug and do what every I need to do...I have it on a 2 x 6 wood block on the floor so I don't step on it in error but my router also has the power switch on the side ,,,right by the power plug..

"Deadman" Foot Pedal Details

I will say I don't use it all the time on all the router tables I move it from tool to tool like the power hand saw and other power tools.
It's very quick to use I just plug in the power tool right into the long cable that comes with it, right at the outlet or drop cord.

It's just one more way to use power tools safe..

==

==


----------



## chaplainpilot (Oct 13, 2011)

What stage of construction are you? I recently built mine and attached by cord from the rounter at top inside with wire cleats. Cut a hole through the side of the drawer wall big enough to fit my plug through it. Ran the cord through the drawer slot again attaching it to the underneath table top, then cut another small hole to run the cord to a plug in switchable outlet (craftsman). I do not plan to have to remove my router. But if you do, you can use screw type wire cleats instead of nail in.

Thanks

Merritt


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Here is the switched outlet I made. The switch controls whatever is plugged into the outlet there.

I can attach it to anything that has a 1/4" hole. It cost me about 1 dollar.

I DID gob some of that liquid electrical tape all over the screws on the right side of the outlet because I don't feel like getting fried.

But I can (and probably should) put it in a box as well.


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Chris Curl said:


> Here is the switched outlet I made. The switch controls whatever is plugged into the outlet there.
> 
> I can attach it to anything that has a 1/4" hole. It cost me about 1 dollar.
> 
> ...


OMG, please tell me you are kidding. I’ve been a electrician for 35 years and this is so unsafe. :nono:
You should at least put it into a plastic switch box with a cover.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Chris

It's one thing being frugal but it's a something else not playing it safe, you can get a plastic outlet box for about a buck or just make one some from scrap stock, I see your are using zip cord that's a no no they put the green screws on the outlets and the switch so you can ground them out but you can't do it with zip cord 

But I thing you did it just to see what you would get back from the members 

==






Chris Curl said:


> Here is the switched outlet I made. The switch controls whatever is plugged into the outlet there.
> 
> I can attach it to anything that has a 1/4" hole. It cost me about 1 dollar.
> 
> ...


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

This is more of a prototype than anything. I didn't have any 3 wire cord on hand, so I used the 2 wire for now as a proof of concept. BUT, it didn't seem like that big of a deal though, because most of the things I would plug into it only have 2 wires, so the ground wire wouldn't be used anyway.

Nevertheless, before I use it for real, I will replace that with a 3 wire cord. I DID say that I should (and I will) put in in a box. 

But at least you can see the idea, and I think it will be very handy.


----------



## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

One of my tables didn't come with a power switching loop. I used a foot pedal to shut it on and off for about a week.

I ended up putting a external speed controller on that setup and since it has a on/off switch on it, the problem was solved at that point. The speed controllers won't work on units that have a soft start feature.

Quick link to the Speed Controller that I use.

I would also avoid using a setup where an outlet and or switch are in the 'sawdust spray zone' if there are extra holes/gaps in the electrical box that would allow dust buildup inside the box. I'm not suggesting the box needs to be water tight, but wood does conduct some electricity, largely due to and proportional to it's moisture content.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Contrary to how I might come across from time to time, safety is more important to me than saving a dollar.


I bought a low profile plastic electrical box and cover at HD. Total cost: $2.75. I also ordered a few short 14 AWG 3-wire extension cords for a few dollars each on line and will use that to supply the power to the switch.

The only solid core wire I have in the thing is between the switch and the outlet. It will not be moving since they will both be inside the box.

I'll post back after I have the thing more like it should be.


----------



## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello!
The green wire is earth connection it should go from the real earth connection
That should exist for your house or workshop, and connect to the earth wire of router,
and to metalic construction of router-table, if metalic.
All this is to make sure that you will not get fried toutching metal parts.
There is also a special switch that should protect all of your electric installation.
A differential switch that will power off if ecxessive current runs from live to earth,
by the way protecting people. In France it is set to 30mA maximum leakage.

Regards


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

OK, I have the 14 AWG 3 prong wire, the box, and the cover. 

At a little over $4, the plug cost the most, but I'm still well under $10.

I think this is done. Yes/No?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Yes 

==



Chris Curl said:


> OK, I have the 14 AWG 3 prong wire, the box, and the cover.
> 
> At a little over $4, the plug cost the most, but I'm still well under $10.
> 
> I think this is done. Yes/No?


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Much Better!:laugh:


----------

