# Using a PC 7518 With Router Skis - Question



## Dodgeboy77 (Jun 14, 2013)

I recently changed out the older, USA made, PC 7518 under my router table for a Triton TRA001. I would like to use the PC with a router ski jig but see one small problem.

I would like to use 1/2" steel round stock for the cross bars of the jig. The PC has the usual holes in the base for a guide - however,they are mixed sizes. On one side they are 1/2" but on the other side they are a hair over 7/16" - actually 29/64".

Can I just run a long 1/2" drill bit through the smaller holes (using the 1/2" holes as a guide) to open them up? Any downside to doing this? 

Thanks,
Bill


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bill

That will work just fine I did it on my PC.


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Dodgeboy77 said:


> I recently changed out the older, USA made, PC 7518 under my router table for a Triton TRA001. I would like to use the PC with a router ski jig but see one small problem.
> 
> I would like to use 1/2" steel round stock for the cross bars of the jig. The PC has the usual holes in the base for a guide - however,they are mixed sizes. On one side they are 1/2" but on the other side they are a hair over 7/16" - actually 29/64".
> 
> ...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

You got it in one Bill.


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## Dodgeboy77 (Jun 14, 2013)

Thanks guys! I'll fire up the drill.

Bill


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Dodgeboy77 said:


> I recently changed out the older, USA made, PC 7518 under my router table for a Triton TRA001. I would like to use the PC with a router ski jig but see one small problem.
> 
> I would like to use 1/2" steel round stock for the cross bars of the jig. The PC has the usual holes in the base for a guide - however,they are mixed sizes. On one side they are 1/2" but on the other side they are a hair over 7/16" - actually 29/64".
> 
> ...


Quite recently another member asked if drilling out the holes in a Makita base was an option and I posted these shots showing that it was. The difference as in your case is quite small. It's important to clamp the router because opening up a hole by that small amount will almost certainly grab the drill and could injure your wrist.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

harrysin said:


> It's important to clamp the router because opening up a hole by that small amount will almost certainly grab the drill and could injure your wrist.


VERY good advice Harry. I know that, but don't know if I'd have thought to tell someone else.


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## Dodgeboy77 (Jun 14, 2013)

The deed is done. As everyone expected, the drill jammed a few times but with some patience (and clamps) I got the holes enlarged. Thanks for the advice guys!

Now - on to router ski construction. I have to find myself some nice, straight 1/2" cold rolled round stock. Fastenal has drill rod but I think that would be too hard for my purposes.

Bill


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Cold rolled steel rod is readily available in 3' or longer lengths, but take the time to roll them on a flat surface before you buy to make certain that they are straight. I bought some at the local Lowes store for my skis and had to take them back because they weren't straight. While there I took the time to roll the next pair on the keymaker's work table. They weren't straight either. After going through the remaining stock of about 25 I managed to find two that I considered acceptable. 

Charley


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## Dodgeboy77 (Jun 14, 2013)

Good advice, Charley, and your experience is what I'm afraid I'll run into, too. That round stock doesn't get careful handling from the mill to the store.

BTW, I don't have access to a lathe so I can't turn the ends of the 1/2" stock down to make shoulders for washers to butt up against. Instead, I plan to cross-drill the stock for roll pins that the washers can butt up against, then cut 1/2" threads on the ends of the bars with a die. Sound like a plan?

Bill


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

No need to threaded the ends if you think out side of the box and use a rail beam way :sold:and a Allen cap screw to lock the rods in place..

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Dodgeboy77 said:


> Good advice, Charley, and your experience is what I'm afraid I'll run into, too. That round stock doesn't get careful handling from the mill to the store.
> 
> BTW, I don't have access to a lathe so I can't turn the ends of the 1/2" stock down to make shoulders for washers to butt up against. Instead, I plan to cross-drill the stock for roll pins that the washers can butt up against, then cut 1/2" threads on the ends of the bars with a die. Sound like a plan?
> 
> Bill


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I don't have a metal lathe either. I just threaded the ends and put them together in a nut-washer-ski-washer-nut configuration on both ends. They work fine.

Charley


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Dodgeboy77 said:


> Good advice, Charley, and your experience is what I'm afraid I'll run into, too. That round stock doesn't get careful handling from the mill to the store.
> 
> BTW, I don't have access to a lathe so I can't turn the ends of the 1/2" stock down to make shoulders for washers to butt up against. Instead, I plan to cross-drill the stock for roll pins that the washers can butt up against, then cut 1/2" threads on the ends of the bars with a die. Sound like a plan?
> 
> Bill


The problem with roll pins is that to remove the router one pin has to be knocked out, or perhaps like me, you intend to have a router permanently on skis, it does make life easier.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Another option is to build a plywood ski jig. They all work so what ever is easiest for you.


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## Dodgeboy77 (Jun 14, 2013)

Bob,

I don't know the "rail beam way" term but those stop collars look like a great idea!

Harry - I completely overlooked the fact that the roll pins would have to be removed to get the router off - D'oh! This makes Charley's idea of just cutting the thread in further seem like a plan. (Plus, cutting threads on 1/2" steel rod is so much fun - NOT) Hmm, stop collars, huh?

And the rest of you guys presented so many other options that now I don't know what I'll do! But I'm in no rush so options are a good thing.

Bill


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You could of course do as others including Bobj3 have done and that is a nut and washer on each side of the end cheeks.


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