# Dovetail Bit



## CASparky (Oct 14, 2004)

Not exactly sure where to start on this...
Recently after more than one start on the correct material sizes for a rectangular box, I ran dovetail joints on the joining sides. I am using the Oak Park 3/8" Step Over fence with a 1/2" Dovetail bit.
After doing the sides, I find the bit pass(es) are not long (deep) enough to go through 1 inch (nominal)(3/4" actual) mating stock. 
I would guess my question is - are longer dovetail bits available?
I am sure I have seen Bob and Rick do said exercise, possibly with thinner material? When I can find time, I shall go look for said show. However at this time, due to a family health situation said venture must wait.

Thanks, Lou


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Lou

I thinkthese have the longer shanks.
16 pc 1/4 Shank Dovetail Router Bit Set For Leigh Jig - eBay (item 140367732164 end time Dec-21-09 20:34:56 PST)

Cheers

Peter


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

CASparky said:


> Not exactly sure where to start on this...
> Recently after more than one start on the correct material sizes for a rectangular box, I ran dovetail joints on the joining sides. I am using the Oak Park 3/8" Step Over fence with a 1/2" Dovetail bit.
> After doing the sides, I find the bit pass(es) are not long (deep) enough to go through 1 inch (nominal)(3/4" actual) mating stock.
> I would guess my question is - are longer dovetail bits available?
> ...


Hi Lou, I'm a loooong ways from an expert on dovetails and I have never even seen that jig, much less used it but, from your description of the problem, I wonder if you have the correct angle on the bit.


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## CASparky (Oct 14, 2004)

Thanks John.
True to my usual form, I see I did not correctly describe my situation.
What I should have said is the cutting portion of the bit is not long enough so as to make a deep enough pass to fully extend thru the mating corner piece. (Thus bit angle is not an issue.)
I see there are a couple dovetail bits listed in that set that may work?
I prefer to only use 1/2" shank bits, however the cutter length / diameter is the determining factor.
I have a large MCLS set, however it only has a small dovetail bit selection. I need to check their website selection when I can find time.
I also had the thought of relieving the rear of each joining material pair. That may however make said enclosure too small?
First I need to obtain addition stock so as to end up with the desired inside dimensions.
Thanks Again John, Lou


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Have you tried this with 3/4" stock? I'm not sure if 1" stock is recommended, I'd have to dig out the paper work I have with mine.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

CASparky said:


> What I should have said is the cutting portion of the bit is not long enough so as to make a deep enough pass to fully extend thru the mating corner piece. (Thus bit angle is not an issue.)


Actually Lou, that was my point. I measured the cutting length on my dovetail bits, 1/4" shanks though, and the 1/2" -14* bit had a cutting length of about 5/8". The 1/2" - 8* bit had a cutting length of about 13/16". My jig calls for the 14* bit for half-blind and the 8* for through dovetails.
Hope this helps


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Lou

Oak Park jig

I wonder if you are using the jig wrong way ,,,,it's not make to put dovetails in place on the ends of stock.(corners).. it will do dovetails in the center of the stock easy with the 1/2" dovetails or sliding dovetails but that's about it..if you want to joiner stock to make it longer that's what it can do.. 

Using a longer bit is a waste of time..just can't do it.. 

This may help
http://op.woodgrainonline.com/spacer/indexus.html
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CASparky said:


> Thanks John.
> True to my usual form, I see I did not correctly describe my situation.
> What I should have said is the cutting portion of the bit is not long enough so as to make a deep enough pass to fully extend thru the mating corner piece. (Thus bit angle is not an issue.)
> I see there are a couple dovetail bits listed in that set that may work?
> ...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Lou,

It is *very* unlikely you will find a 1/2x14* bit that will cut through 3/4" stock. The 1/2" is the diameter at the tip and by the time you'd get down 3/4 of an inch, the diameter would be 1/8", and that would be with *zero* extra cutter. To give bit clearance, the shank would have to be even smaller at the bottom of the cutter. If the bit existed, it would be dangerous to use.

To cut 3/4" stock with a 1/2" bit you'll need an 8-degree angle. Those are normally designed with a 13/16" cutter.

The cutting depth limit is a matter of geometry and not manufacturers arbitrary choice.


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## CASparky (Oct 14, 2004)

Well guys, I think I am finally making some sense out of this...

Ken - I was using 1 X (3/4" actual) material when I determined things would not work as expected.

John - Roger on 5/8" cutter length, not making it thru 1 X stock. I am not doing half blind as I do not have the/a jig, especially for a first time.

Bob J - Bob and Rick use this procedure at least once in each series of shows, on box and dovetail joints. Oak Park calls them "Spacer Fences", where the stock is 'stepped over' for the next pass.

Jim - Thanks for explaining bit design specs. I really do not care about the angle, what ever 'tis, will be. Just getting thru the (obviously) thicker material was the problem. MCLS 7704 lists a cutter length of 13/16, 7703 at 3/4, plus 7710 and 7697 are also longer lengths. I had intended on finer cuts (bits), however that looks not to be the case.

Thanks Again Guys, Lou


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

The OP box jig has 4 mounting holes in it. The key for use with the DT bit is "location". It's designed to be mounted to the OP table but, can be mounted to others with ease. Use a brass guide to set the distance between the DT bit and the spacer fence. If you have any of the instructions that came with your OP spacer plate, reread them. It will go into further details. I haven't had time to look for mine.


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## robersonjr (Dec 5, 2009)

Lou, CMT has dove tail bits that range from 1/4" up to 1-1/4" cutting length, There should be a bit that could clear almost any thickness you desire. Robbie


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## CASparky (Oct 14, 2004)

[The OP box jig has 4 mounting holes in it. The key for use with the DT bit is "location". It's designed to be mounted to the OP table but, can be mounted to others with ease. Use a brass guide to set the distance between the DT bit and the spacer fence. If you have any of the instructions that came with your OP spacer plate, reread them. It will go into further details. I haven't had time to look for mine.]

Thanks Ken.
My initial problem was not with the Oak Park Spacer Fences (nor setup of same).
It was the actual cutting surface length of the Dovetail Bit I have, being too short for 3/4" stock. I have ordered longer bits from MCLS, plus a bit extender to insure plenty of bit height.
(A Dewalt 625 [w/table insert plate], plus a Spacer Fence ends up being on the short end when using a longer cutting surface bit.)

Merry Christmas, Lou


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## CASparky (Oct 14, 2004)

[Lou, CMT has dove tail bits that range from 1/4" up to 1-1/4" cutting length, There should be a bit that could clear almost any thickness you desire. Robbie]

Thanks Robbie.
MCLS does as well.
I had originally wanted to use as small of pin(s) as possible as said box is not to be all that big, however at this point I will use what ever works!

Merry Christmas,

Lou


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

The DT bit I use in mine I actually purchased from OP. I'd have to do some measuring to see what it is.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

My 3/8" DT bit is, 1 7/8" in length, my 1/2" DT bit (14*), is 3" in length.

Remember, the spacer fence will do, flat joinery, angle splices, and sliding DT's. As I said before, it's designed to be mounted on the OP table. Also, again, it's "location" is imperative to get exactly what you're looking for. If you need more detail on the setting of the bit, I'd have to get the OK from OP before scanning a copy of the instructions to you. I'm sure it'd be ok but, I'd rather make sure first. The instructions will explain the setup, provided you have them.


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## CASparky (Oct 14, 2004)

Thanks Ken.
I do have the instructions for the Oak Park Spacer Fences.
I suspect you may have provided the entire bit length.
My original topic was the actual cutting surface length (as the remaining stock was at least 1/8" short of being flush with the mating corner material).
I have bits (with longer cutting surfaces) in transit at this time.
Thanks Again, Lou


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

For sliding DT's, 3/8" is max that's recommended. For others, thickness doesn't really matter if I was rereading the manuals. Of course, they're back in the shop again and, I'd have to dig them out to confirm. This is no biggie.

Here's more info for you:

http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html


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