# New Miter Saw Station



## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

I've been wanting to get this project wrapped up for a while and I've taken my time getting there. This build is a variation of a plan I saw from Jay's Creations that was altered by another gentleman. What I'll say upfront is the base cabinets are 30" deep which makes using 4x8 plywood sheets less than economical. Were I to do this again I'd probably stick with 24" depth and get more out of the plywood sheets. From one video I saw about the build the plywood was from a sponsor so there's that. At this point my plywood is from 3 different sources with one having been prefinished surface. The other two sources are from big box stores and some left over pieces from other projects. As it's a shop fixture I didn't worry about it all looking the same and spent time on the details and the little lady thinks it looks just fine so....if it ever bothers me too much I can always paint it.

Anyway the basic idea is 2 larger base cabinets (26" X 30") and two smaller base cabinets (15" X 30") with the table for the miter saw between the sets (1 large/1 small). The center base cabinet is sized dependant on you miter saw to get full swing in both directions and room for dust collection. In may case with the Dewalt DWS780 12 in. Double Bevel Sliding Compound Miter Saw it turned out to be 41". The larger bases have 25"X28" drawers which come in very handy for my larger jigs and tools like my miter fence and IBox jig. The smaller ones are 14"X28" . This gives a great deal of storage room helping to tidy up the shop. Also gives a lot of drawers to look through when you can't remember where you put something so there's that as well.....

The center cabinet under the saw itself is supposed to have drawers but I think I have enough already and can always add if needed. I was thinking of a center panel for support but what I did on this top due to weight was add a 3/4" MDF subtop which also should add strength. If needed I can always pocket hole some 1" slats later but due to how the saw is spread out over the near full width I don't think it will be necessary. The saw's base should help distribute the weight fairly well on the top. If I leave open underneath I may just add a full width shallow drawer for saw blades and tools related to the miter saw and possibly install one of my California Air air compressors underneath and add doors to the front. The drawer would be recessed to clear the pull with the doors closed and I could use a set of 24" slides instead as well.

Anyway I have a few pictures of the project below hopefully in order.


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Really like that setup. It looks so well thought out. Wish I had room for something like that.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

What I haven't decided on yet is whether I'll cut some solid wood strips for the exposed front plywood edges (I'm inclined to) or leave as is for now. As can be seen there is a 6" PVC dust collection pipe overhead with a blast gate that has 2 - 4" blast gates but I'm hesitant on placing these as I haven't figured the best placement. I expect 90% of the cuts made on this saw to be at 90 degrees but.... There is a makeshift hood over the saw now that's tapered inside to reduce the overall area and I was playing with the idea of slotting several pieces of 4" PVC with a cap on the end and see if that helps. We'll just have to see how that evolves. I don't expect more than 85-90% collection but more is better.

I need to put 3 coats of poly on this and possibly the solid trim.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

man...
*WOW!!!!*...
that is some serious impressive Steve...

_KUDOS!!!_


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

+1 ! Excellent!
In the wood edge part; the wood will be protection for the plywood...it will take a beating over time. The wood can be replaced if it needs to but the plywood, not so much.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Beautiful job, Steve. That takes miter saw station to a whole new level!


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Steve that is a first-class miter saw station you made. Congratulations.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Great looking station. I don't have any room for something like that. Thinking of putting a deck outside the shop and rolling the miter saw out there when needed. I primarily use it for cutting long stuff to length, then it's off to the table saw.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Steve thanks for the write up and pictures. Really nice job.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Good Pictorial, Steve. That is impressive set of cabinets. You did a nice job on those.
Herb


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

Nice. N


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## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

Great looking miter station Steve. With all those handy drawers you may have to buy more tools to fill them.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

DaninVan said:


> +1 ! Excellent!
> In the wood edge part; the wood will be protection for the plywood...it will take a beating over time. The wood can be replaced if it needs to but the plywood, not so much.


I did this with my outfeed table and it has held up well for now. The solid trim makes it more attractive as well. With the mobile clamp rack cabinet I just used a slight round over bit for the exposed edges. At this point in life I'm trying to eliminate sharp hard edges. I cut and bruise too easily these days. It's a colligene thing I'm told. My doc, the guy who prescribes my meds, is always asking if I'm on blood thinners, which I haven't been since the knees were replaced. I just tell him my wife beats me alot. Poor women has an unearned reputation she's not even aware of. At just 5' tall and all sweetness and love even my imagination can't see her ever losing it. She can't even frown without it breaking into a smile for gosh sakes. 

Now that I've written this it reminds me, when using pre-finished plywood should additional finish be applied when complete? For shop projects I was planning on using a water based satin finish poly like the gallon of Satin High Performance Polyurethane Interior Topcoat I just bought. Solvent based in a basement shop just has a very strong odor and with the torrential rains we've had this spring/summer outside finishing is almost impossible.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Pictures of the outfeed table w/edging as well as the router table edging.


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## comp56 (Mar 30, 2017)

love it


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## Danman1957 (Mar 14, 2009)

I like it Steve,

What size is your shop ? I also like your outfeed table.


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## spike1 (Sep 24, 2015)

Steve, Wow! I'm sure it took quite some time, but your project is terrific. With all that storage available above and below the sawing surface, you could probably fit most of the rest of the tools in your shop. You are a very talented woodworker. How to go!


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

Great job. Beautifully done. 
I was wondering. What is that white stuff on your walls? Any ideas Rick?

David


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Steve, your outfeed table is a beauty too. I was looking at the casters on your router table, I'm wondering about a DIY way to do that. hmmmm...


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Danman1957 said:


> I like it Steve,
> 
> What size is your shop ? I also like your outfeed table.


Keep in mind that the under stairs closet and HVAC system reside in this space as well but the overall dimensions are 22'x30' with 9' ceilings.

David, the white stuff on the walls is insulation. This basement is a walkout and the majority of it is unfinished but the walls have the studs and insulation. Just behind the miter station I have plastic up.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

TenGees said:


> Steve, your outfeed table is a beauty too. I was looking at the casters on your router table, I'm wondering about a DIY way to do that. hmmmm...


Paul, the outfeed table uses lag bolts to level and I really need to change that. It's way to heavy to move around and I need to find a way to use the same style wheels I have on the router table. And those router table wheels need a board to connect both wheels on each side as a pair so one movement raies the entire side. I figure I can drill a hole in the lever on each and span a board between them bolting it down. The outfeed table will be a bit harder to do but I can eliminate the lag bolts on the 4x4 runners and use this style leveler I think. I would make sure the table is already level before hand and then bolt on. That makes any minor adjustment easier as the hex wrench adjustment is on top. The problem with an unfinished basement floor is it's mostly level but not perfectly level so anytime I move the table saw the aux table need releveling as well. But I'm happy to have the space of course. It's dry, cool, dry, and controlled (I have 5 thermostats in the house controlling 5 zones of which two are in the basement).


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Actually I just ordered these for the outfeed table. Should have done this a good while back.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Those levellers look nice and with their weight rating, they should handle a lot of punishment.


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