# Routing Plexiglass/Perspex



## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

Hi.

Has anyone attempted to rout plexiglass? I have some 3/8" thick perspex that I need to put two curves onto and two slots. If it was wood, it would be quite easy.

Can I treat the plexiglass as if it was wood? What speed would be ideal without melting the plexiglass or having it stick to the cutter.

I don't have any spare material to practice on. Once I start, I'm committed, so would appreciate the experience of others.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I've routed lots of different types of Acrylics and some melt easily and for this type I slow down the router otherwise I treat it like wood.


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

Thanks Harry.

I'll give it a go.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Every last piece of this was routed to a 1/4" MDF pattern with a 3-flute flush trim bit from Mcmaster-Carr at medium slow speed. Use some form of dust/chip collection as the chips become static charged and will attach themselves to everything.


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

That's quite a piece, Patrick. 
Thanks for all the info. I'll be having a go at it over the weekend, although I'm not sure if I have a 3 flute trimmer. If not, I'll probably order a Whiteside one, as they're fairly easy to obtain in the UK.

My project is a lot more simple. I have a Woodpeckers Mini-Coping Sled, and I dropped a piece of MDF on it which broke the plexiglass clear guide at one end, so I have a pattern to make a new one. It would have probably cost me a lot more to order a new part and have it shipped. A local company was offering any size piece with one or more rounded corners, so I had them put 2 rounded corners on it and I'll cut out the curved recesses with a router and make the two slots.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Besides slowing the speed down... Your might also use a bit coolant.


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

Sounds like a good idea.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> Every last piece of this was routed to a 1/4" MDF pattern with a 3-flute flush trim bit from Mcmaster-Carr at medium slow speed.


OK, I give up. What is it?


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

MAFoElffen said:


> Besides slowing the speed down... Your might also use a bit coolant.


What kind of coolant can be used with a router bit?


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

Treat it like wood - I make zero clearance inserts for table and band saws from Lexan and other plastics and they melt a little, in my case the edge clarity is not important and I route the holding lip. I have tried 18k to 36k and have found very little difference in melting - the edge is routed with a rabbiting bit w/bearing by hand.

Good Luck - Baker


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

I guess I can get clear edges by routing to within 128th", then sanding the result with rice paper and finally polishing with Tee Cut.


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## Keith Hodges (Apr 30, 2013)

Simply use air from your compressor if you have one, cools really well.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

WurliTzerwilly said:


> I guess I can get clear edges by routing to within 128th", then sanding the result with rice paper and finally polishing with Tee Cut.


A buffing wheel on a drill motor in a vise and standard compounds are what I used. You could also look into "Flame Polishing" with a MAPP gas torch.


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## elrodqfudp (Sep 5, 2011)

Here is a sheet of hints on routing acrylic I found by using Google. This was just the first one on the list. There are many more that may interest you.

http://www.engraverssolutions.com/PDFs/tips&tricks-routing_acrylic.pdf

I hope that you find this information useful.

Browne Altman


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

Thanks Browne.

Very interesting. I'm not sure if I can justify the expense of a 1/2" spiral cutter as suggested, but I will certainly look at the cheaper methods. In fact I will have a small amount to practice on as I have to cut around 1" off each end, so I can rout it in small pieces and observe the result.

Thanks for the helpful info.


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## Skyewalker (Aug 30, 2012)

My advice (for what it's worth) 
1. use the sharpest bit you have
2. use the slowest router speed you can achieve
3. use the fastest feed rate you can (less time to melt/burn)
4. for coolant (if you need it) I would use Varsol (mineral spirits)
Good luck
David


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> Every last piece of this was routed to a 1/4" MDF pattern with a 3-flute flush trim bit from Mcmaster-Carr at medium slow speed. Use some form of dust/chip collection as the chips become static charged and will attach themselves to everything.


I am very, very impressed with this project. 
And to think I had a "spectacular" project planned!

I had been under the impression that special O-flute bits were best for acrylics, and I am surprised there has so far been no explicit mention of them.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

elrodqfudp said:


> Here is a sheet of hints on routing acrylic I found by using Google. This was just the first one on the list. There are many more that may interest you.
> 
> http://www.engraverssolutions.com/PDFs/tips&tricks-routing_acrylic.pdf
> 
> ...


Thanks very much for this link. Finally a seemingly authoritative guide to route ring plastics!


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

JOAT said:


> OK, I give up. What is it?


I was wondering when someone was going to ask that. It's a filter insert to convert a standard small aquarium into an aquarium sump filter. I didn't have ready access to glass to do a conventional sump build. Acrylic and glass have different expansion characteristics so physically attaching the acrylic to the glass aquarium walls risked stress cracks. This unit just set down into the existing tank. Although it worked well it wasn't as maintenance friendly as I had hoped. I have since found a good local source for cut glass and replaced it with a more conventional sump design.



mftha said:


> I am very, very impressed with this project.
> And to think I had a "spectacular" project planned!
> 
> I had been under the impression that special O-flute bits were best for acrylics, and I am surprised there has so far been no explicit mention of them.


Had never heard of an O-flute bit till today. Something new - thanks, and thanks for the complement as well.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

BTW this is the bit I used. #35505A65

McMaster-Carr

#35505A65


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

elrodqfudp said:


> Here is a sheet of hints on routing acrylic I found by using Google. This was just the first one on the list. There are many more that may interest you.
> 
> http://www.engraverssolutions.com/PDFs/tips&tricks-routing_acrylic.pdf
> 
> ...


Good tip thanks


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> BTW this is the bit I used. #35505A65
> 
> McMaster-Carr
> 
> #35505A65



From what I can tell the bit you used is an O-flute; in any case it the catalogue describes it as specifically designed for plastics.
I had been dreaming of obtaining a flush trim bit for plastics, and now with great thanks to you I know where to get one! I had never looked at McMaster-Carr until now.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

paduke said:


> What kind of coolant can be used with a router bit?


I was using Stiedel Lubrimax Alu Fleckfrel, which is a lubricoolant that I saw used in the MQL's used on Altendorf's (sprays "minimum quantity lubrication") on blade while cutting plastics and aluminum. Large band saws use the same kind of systems...

But it doesn't work as well it you don't have that system installed. That system cools because it's spraying a mist of something cooler (lube) on the blade at intervals... and those sprayer systems are a bit pricey... I was just using a spray bottle.

So I drew on my welding kit and came up with something better for router and drill bits... "Hylo COOL LS-3" (Welding Thermal Barrier Gel) by Hylomar USA, Inc... Of all things HF sells it for cheaper than I used to get it from the welding supply. It would help keep welding stock cool, while TIG welding delicate stuff. Worked so well I tried it on router bits and drill bits.

Work's great on both. I put it on bit before I use it. While using it, if I can tell a bit is getting hot, I reapply. It doesn't take much, so lasts a long time. Less messy than tapping fluid or other lubes (mineral spirits, fatty alcohol or vegetable oil)... Cleans up with water. It works good and lasts a long time = for me means that's a lot cheaper for my pocket than other things I was trying to use.

It doesn't seem to affect plastics.


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## Skyewalker (Aug 30, 2012)

What kind of glue did you use to put this together?
It's a beautiful .... something.

David


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

If that is directed at me ... Weld-On #4 Water Thin Acrylic Solvent Adhesive. 









It bonds two surfaces together by dissolving them while in close proximity. When the solvent evaporates the once two pieces reset as one. You need to have edges as smooth as possible as the bond will not fill voids even as small as scratches from 220 grit sandpaper. Scraping the edges smooth after sanding is the best method. The pieces are placed in their final positions with a small gap (I use 22 ga. wire as spacers) and the solvent is applied with a needle bottle applicator and allowed to wick between the two. The spacers are removed after a few seconds and light pressure or gravity closes the gap and the joint is allowed to set.


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> BTW this is the bit I used. #35505A65
> 
> McMaster-Carr
> 
> #35505A65


I didn't realise that the McMaster bits were so significant. Thanks for that. I'll see if I can find a UK supplier.


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

Skyewalker said:


> What kind of glue did you use to put this together?
> It's a beautiful .... something.
> 
> David


When I last had to join Perspex many years ago, I used Chloroform. I even had to sign the pharmacy's poisons register. I don't think I'd be able to buy it now! 

Looks like Chuck has the right answer.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

I'm not Chuck Yeager. That's just a safety quote in my Signature.


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> I'm not Chuck Yeager. That's just a safety quote in my Signature.


Sorry. The name means nothing to me otherwise.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

WWII P-51 pilot; 1950's era test pilot. The first man to first fly above mach 1.


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

WurliTzerwilly said:


> Sorry. The name means nothing to me otherwise.


Alan
You shoud read up on Chuck Yeager. There are several fascinating biographies on Chuck that read like a noval.


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