# 3mm straight or slot bit?



## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

I am building a rail and style type door for a cupboard door so that it matches the style elsewhere in the house. The rails and styles will be 19mm (3/4") and the ply that goes into them will be 3mm (1/8"). To cut the groove to hold the ply, what are the pro's and con's of using a straight bit versus a slot cutter?

thanks,
Darryl


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

darsev said:


> I am building a rail and style type door for a cupboard door so that it matches the style elsewhere in the house. The rails and styles will be 19mm (3/4") and the ply that goes into them will be 3mm (1/8"). To cut the groove to hold the ply, what are the pro's and con's of using a straight bit versus a slot cutter?
> 
> thanks,
> Darryl


Hi Darryl - I like the slot cutter as it pretty well clears out the slot as it goes where a straight bit generally leaves chips packed in there. I don't think there is a "correct" way, either will get the job done. That's just my preference.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Darry

I will 2nd.John's post but add one thing 1/8" bits like to snap off easy and it hard to go deeper than a 1/4" deep with one they just don't clean out the chips fast and the pocket slot should be 3/8" to 1/2" deep the norm, the slot cutter can do that easy with one quick pass.

By the way they make a very small diam.slot cutter just for that type of job so you down blow out end of the door parts,it's 1" in diam. unlike the normal 1 7/8" diam slot cutter.

http://www.wealdentool.com/cgi-bin/...pact_Groover_119.html#aT5888_2d8s#aT5888_2d8s

=
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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

Is there any issue with tearout by the slot cutter on the trailing edge? I am looking at it as a small circular saw, and tearout is always something to be careful of on the bottom side of your job.

Darryl


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

darsev said:


> Is there any issue with tearout by the slot cutter on the trailing edge? I am looking at it as a small circular saw, and tearout is always something to be careful of on the bottom side of your job.
> 
> Darryl


Hi Darryl - I haven't really paid much attention as I usually do an edge profile after the door is assembled which will take out any of that. The stiles shouldn't be a problem as you are running with the grain. Possibly some on the rails so I use a backer board on those. I don't really recall doing anything that small on doors, usually 1/4" (6mm) is about as small as I go on those.


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello!
+1 for the slot cutter is a lot faster and chips come out easily
Just like a tiny circular saw.

By the way, a circular saw could do a great job at making slots,
It' s probably what would dn a table cicular saw with a 250mm 60 teeth. 3mm width
using lateral rail and 2 safety pushing blocks. or feather board on side and pushing block.

Depends on shape of your wood.

No need to say, saw is very dangerous...

Regards


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

*Considered using table saw, but...*

I did consider using a table saw, but thought that a router would do a better job. Particularly in controlling the width of the channel to match the ply going into it, and the depth of the cut.

As far as danger goes, I think that both the saw and the slot cutter would be equally dangerous as they are both essentially doing the same thing. Having had a workmate lose the top of his finger on a table saw 2 weeks ago, I have been graphically reminded to be careful around such equipment. Curiously, the injuries were similar to a post I read on this forum recently about a router accident where the poster lost the tops of his fingers. I think I will have better control over the longer pieces of timber in the router. In the router, the kickout will be sideways, and that can be controlled with a feather board. In the saw the kickout will be vertical which is not quite so easily controlled with feather boards or similar.

Darryl


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