# building kitchen cabinet drawers



## Jack142 (Apr 25, 2012)

I'm have a debate with myself on how to do this. 
I been thinking of using 1/2 inch popular and box joints to build the drawer box.
I have a good table saw and dado blade.
Then I start thinking I would be better off buying a dovetail jig and dovetailing the ends.
I have a router table ... My 25 yr old router died last week, plastic pieces where flying all over the place. I think I am going to buy a craftsman 27683 2hp next week.
Then I start thinking If I dovetail I should use 3/4 in wood instead of 1/2 inch.
Then I saw a video where the guy used 3/4 plywood and use just glue and biskets.
boy that look easy !!
Its these decisions that are driving me crazy


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Jack; welcome!
Dovetails are great but hardly a requirement for kitchen cabinet drawers. 

Amazon.com: Whiteside - WS3347 - 1" Locking Drawer Glue Joints: Home Improvement


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## LexB (Apr 12, 2010)

3/4-inch drawers are a bit overkill for kitchen drawers, and you will lose a little bit of storage space with the thicker components. You can use special router bits for making drawers, or you can make the joinery with nothing more than your table saw. With a regular saw blade you can make a locking-dado joint with just a couple of adjustments to the cutting depth and fence distance. It's a simple and strong joint that can be used in plywood or solid wood. If you're making applied fronts for your drawers, you can even make them with pocket hole screws, which when used with glue should be plenty strong enough (and just as easy as biscuits because they're both just simple butt joints as far as measuring and cutting lumber goes.)


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hi Jack.
I don't prefer the but joint with biscuits or dowels for kitchen drawers. If you decide to buy a dovetail jig & dovetail your drawer boxes you can do a Half-Blind dovetail. It will only show when you open the drawer. If you are making drawers with applied fronts as in a 1/2" overlay for example, the applied front would be same material as your outside cabs & doors. If you drawers are inset flush you can go two ways about it. You can use an applied front or the front piece of your drawer box would be same material as you doors to match. This would push the drawer box farther back into the cab. You could them make the other 3 sides of the drawer box out of the poplar. 

Using 1/2" material is fine. You could just use the 3/4" if you have any large drawers you plan to use for heavy items such as to house the pots & pans, but I don't think it is needed. If you use 1/2" for most drawers & 3/4" for heavier items you can use the same Half-Blind Dovetail setup without changing router setup. For Through Dovetails you would have to reset bit depth for the different material thicknesses. The drawer lock bit is another joinery option as mentioned. There are many options to go about it you just have to pick one & go for it.

These drawers use an applied front (Cherry)with a 1/2" overlay. I used Hard Maple machined down to 5/8" for the drawer box. They were installed with under-mount soft close slides.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I'm pretty much old school when it comes to drawers. I start but routing a 1/2" grove along the bottoms of both side pieces for the bottom. I also route a long piece for the backs that will be cut to size later. I then route 1/2" or use the dado blade on the front piece to accept the sides. The back (which is already routed at the bottom) is just cut square and butted up to the sides. I then glue and nail them together letting the bottom float in the groves. I then route the edge on the front and apply it to the box. I have never had one come apart.


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## damnitboy (Mar 3, 2012)

Howdy Jack,
Just my oppinion but I sell ove 1 m a year inn cabinets and a lock miter thrills the heck out of my clients and if you have dedicated Shaper or router you leave stup. you can knock a drawer out in around 5 minutes. No math cut the sides and bottom to your foinish size and let thet cutter do the rest. Even the clamping is just one on each side becouse the joinery supports itself to the point you have to tap your joint apart to glue it. 

-Eloy


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## Bradleytavares (Feb 25, 2012)

butt joints, glue and screws work well especially with an applied drawer front. If you would like a decorative look and not pay the price of a dovetail jig use finger joints. Rockler sells a finger joint jig for $70.00 or so, on sale for $55.00 or so. You will need your router table though. Easy set up as opposed to dovetail jig. Self aligning the first time. Personally, I use a double rabbit lap, glue and pinnails at the corners with dado for the glued in 1/4" plywood bottom. Strong and stayes square. Many guys think 3/4" is necessary but time has shown it's way overkill. We usually use 1/2" solids and occassionally 5/8" solids. Ply is usually used where appearance is not necessary such as utility, work, drawers. Just think about this if your work is to be seen by others. Also don't forget the splinter issue with plywood and time.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Jack, I'm glad you started this thread, thanks! I am also about to build some drawers. I completed my corner cabinet today (no drawers), and my next one is all drawers. Two small (silverware) and to large (Tupperware and stuff). I also began the debate with myself over dovetail, finger joints or locking miters. I believe my box joint kit came with instruction on doing the lock miter joints, as well. They looked easy, solid and to be the quickest. I am leaning towards that direction.

Again thanks, it saved me the trouble of starting this thread!! ;o) And thanks for the replies to Jacks post as well.


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## si tiptop (Apr 29, 2012)

*dovetails are best*



Jack142 said:


> I'm have a debate with myself on how to do this.
> I been thinking of using 1/2 inch popular and box joints to build the drawer box.
> I have a good table saw and dado blade.
> Then I start thinking I would be better off buying a dovetail jig and dovetailing the ends.
> ...


i wouild go for a good dovetail jig try the Leigh ones best getting a medium powered router with fine height adjustment can use ply but traditionally beach was used


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## Jack142 (Apr 25, 2012)

*thanks*

hi gang,
I would like to thank you all for your help and advice. I'm going to use 1/2 inch for the drawers and I am leaning towards finger joints. I've got all the spare wood around to make a jig for my dado blade on my table saw. 
I do have a Kreig pocket hole jig set. I've use it on other projects and it does hold a joint well, but I think finger joints might be a little classier. 
I'd do dovetails but I dont have a setup for it " YET " LOL !!! 
I'm going to try to load a pic of what I am trying to accomplish.


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

If you're using false fronts, a dado/rabbet construction will suffice if you're looking for a reasonably strong but simple construction.
Bob Van **** Shop Tip: The Lock Rabbet Joint - Fine Woodworking Video


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Jack; re the finger joints. No. All the stress on the joint is lateral, fore and aft. The _dovetail _shape absorbs the shock and prevents the joint from separating. Finger joints don't have that property. 
20 or 30 years of drawer opening and closing is thousands of individual shocks to the finger joints...probably it'll be okay, but not the best choice for heavily loaded drawers! 
Listen to Eloy, look at what high end kitchen cab. mfgs. use. 
Or, go for the dovetail...but not a finger joint. 
Cheers,
-Dan


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

With modern glues, the box joints should be just fine, an you can always pin them from the top and bottom with a brad if you are afraid of the glue joint failing! But box joints have a LOT of glue surface, and as long as they fit tight, the wood will break before the joint. With modern glues, use the joint you are most comfortable with, and it should be fine! I have seen dovetail joints fail as well.


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Heck, I've seen 40 year old vinyl clad particle board drawers that are held together with nothing more than staples and hot glue outlast the hardware used as glides and hinges. The tenants using these kitchens couldn't significantly tear them apart.

As Duane says, whatever joint or method you use to construct drawers with today's glues should be just fine.

A kitchen is all about function and visual appeal, if the joinery adds to that visual appeal then go for it, don't overthink the structural needs beyond normal limits of function.

Specialty drawers with heavy loads like pantry pullouts and cast iron pot storage will need to be designed apart from the standard ones any way.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

TomE said:


> Heck, I've seen 40 year old vinyl clad particle board drawers that are held together with nothing more than staples and hot glue outlast the hardware used as glides and hinges. The tenants using these kitchens couldn't significantly tear them apart.
> 
> As Duane says, whatever joint or method you use to construct drawers with today's glues should be just fine.
> 
> ...


While I agree I have seen drawers that were old with these assembly techniques still going without problems, I've also seen many that were just a couple of years old falling apart before the hardware had any tarnish on them. Same goes for cheap slide hardware. There is two types of cheap, cheap cost & cheap quality. I think the end user has a lot of impact on how long a product last.


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

There are some interesting tests of dovetail vs finger/box joint strength on the woodgears site:
Dovetail vs. box joint strength
Dovetail joint vs box joint
Seems the number of fingers/pins (which determines the amount of glue surface area) is a bigger factor than their shape; and dovetails need to be wider than box joint fingers so the box joint tends to win.
Of course those tests are ultimate load tests so may not be representative of what would happen with repeated smaller loads over a long time. But I think it shows a box joint is plenty strong provided it's properly glued.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Wood magazine did similar tests awhile back. They came to very similar results. As I recall the box joint proved to be the strongest. The article was in the Nov, 2006 issue.

WOOD Index: Search Results

Going to look it up later!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

AndyL said:


> There are some interesting tests of dovetail vs finger/box joint strength on the woodgears site:
> Dovetail vs. box joint strength
> Dovetail joint vs box joint
> Seems the number of fingers/pins (which determines the amount of glue surface area) is a bigger factor than their shape; and dovetails need to be wider than box joint fingers so the box joint tends to win.
> Of course those tests are ultimate load tests so may not be representative of what would happen with repeated smaller loads over a long time. But I think it shows a box joint is plenty strong provided it's properly glued.


That raises an interesting point, Andy. Pulling something until it breaks is not the same as giving it a light pull 10,000 times as in a kitchen drawer.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Jack, I hope you don't mind me hi-jacking your post again. Just figured since you have the attention of all the experts... ;o) And who knows, might help you too. 

As I said in an earlier post, I'm about to start my second kitchen cabinet, with 4 drawers only. 2 regular size for silverware, then below, two large drawers. Not necessarily for pots and pans (corner cabinet I just finished for that), but for Tupperware type stuff and maybe some Corning-ware (glass) type stuff. The two lower large drawers will measure 41" wide, 9" high, and about 22" deep. My question is this. What size lumber should I use for the box (will have false front) and bottom. I'm thinking 3/4 for the box (4 sides) and 1/2" bottom? This would not be an overkill, considering the width? 

I was figuring on 1/2" box, with a 1/4" bottom for the upper drawers, measuring 19" wide, about 3 1/4 high and 22" deep. Does this sound about right? 

Thanks, and thank you Jack!


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## Jack142 (Apr 25, 2012)

*large drawers*

hey N'awlins,

I tend to overbuild. I am also building some large drawers inside a couple of bottom cabinets. Two drawers on each side.
We are so tired of having to get down on our knees to see whats in the back of the bottom cabinet, a large "drawer" is going to be soo nice.
I am going to use bottom slides. I'm going 1/2 in all the way. With bottom slides "heavy duty bottom slides" most of the weight { which will not be on the sides of the drawer but on the bottom of the drawer } will be supported by the bottom slides. 
At least thats my logic.
The smaller drawers are going to be 1/2 inch sides and 1/4 bottoms. I haven't decided if I am going to use side slides or again bottom slides. I have some modifications to do for bottom slides on the smaller drawers. 
I have one cabinet that has 4 drawers vertically. I don't have the measurements here in the office but I think they are about 14 inches wide. 
In another cabinet; I have 2 larger drawers { 24 inches wide }for silverware knives etc. I might go with bottom slides on these 
I hope this helps But I am not an expert on this, This is my first kitchen remodel.
Some of my problem is just making up my mind on what I want to do !!!
good luck


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## Jack142 (Apr 25, 2012)

*And*

I also wanted to mention I am looking at the whiteside locking drawer router bit.
I got my new router and it sure looks easy to use this bit


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Likewise Jack, on getting on the knee's to reach for something. 

I think I'm going to go with the 1/2" with 1/4" bottoms on my little (silverware) drawers, but on the large drawers (41" wide 9" tall) I think I'm going to make the 4 walls with 3/4 and the bottom 1/2" I just think with the width, I need the rigidity that the 3/4 brings. And I don't know, but I still like the heavy side slides. Medium duty for the upper smaller drawers. 

But all this could change, as I do more research. But will have to decide soon, as the carcass is almost finished.


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## newcabinetdoor (Mar 28, 2017)

There are tons of different ways to build a cabinet drawer. You can get fancy with dovetails, box joints or locking rabbets. There are biscuits, loose tenons and pocket screws. In this tutorial, I’m going to show you how to build a cabinet drawer using the easiest possible method. You don’t need any fancy tools to cut dados, grooves, tenons or dowels. All you need are your drawer pieces, wood glue and a drill/driver. Your screws will be visible on your drawer sides so this method is best for heavy duty workshop projects or you need to be willing to do some filling with wood putty.


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