# What size of Raised Panel Bit?



## SandyT (Apr 28, 2006)

Well, today, I got a Bosch Ogee 3 1/2" Raised Panel bit, thinking that would be perfect to go along with the Bosch Ogee Rail and Stile Bits I already have and have tried and succeeded making frames with. But, nooooooo, the opening in my Sears Craftsman router table is too small. I know I will have to take this Bosch bit back tomorrow.  
The question is, what size should I get and what brand and will it work with the bits I already have as far as fitting inside the groove that my Rail and Stile bits make? 
Should I get the bit that makes a groove in the back of the panel at the same time it makes the raised panel on the front?
Am I stuck with using the Ogee style raised panel bits?  
Should I get the vertical bit and make the fence that Bj made for that purpose? 
Thank you for your help, as always.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Sandy, which router are you using and which Craftsman table? I have some ideas for you but would like to provide accurate information.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi SANDY
Flat Panels are attractive you don't always need to put in a Raised panel.
You can also get a 2" raised panel bits but I don't recommend them.
BUT
You may want to take a look at this link below... 
A 2 HP router will do it.

http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=2725

Bj


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## SandyT (Apr 28, 2006)

Mike,
My 2HP router is a Model No. 315.275000 and the Craftsman Professional Router table is Model No. 171.254831.
Any advice is appreciated.
Bj, 
Yeah, that's the fence I was talking about. The one you made for the vertical bit. So, if I end up taking this 3 1/2 " bit back, I will consider this fence. 
I could possibly do the raised panels on my table saw. Then, is there a way to beautify the plain edges with some edging router bits?
I'll be waiting for your replies.
Thank you so much.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Sandy
When you use the table saw to make a Raised Panel(s), you will need to make a jig also like the one Norm (NYWS) made but most come out looking like crap and it takes a long time to sand them down to get the saw blade/burn marks out.
But that's up to you, the router can do it quick and easy.

You don't need to make the sub fence and push block to make the panels on the router table, a tall push block will do it also but the sub fence and the push block helps from making firewood, one nick or over cut will turn a nice oak,cherry,maple stock into firewood.
Just a note *** if the panel is over 6",split the panel and glue it back up as one b/4 you make the panel cut.(just about any thing over 6" will cup/bow in time) the door frame will help but it will still cup/bow and pull the frame out of sq.

"Then, is there a way to beautify the plain edges" = the plain edges are put into the door frame so you will not see them.(the norm is 1/4" to 7/16" deep) in the frame.
The O-G door bit set will put a nice edge on the frame,then you can use a door lip/round over/? bit on the outside of the door frame.

Bj


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## SandyT (Apr 28, 2006)

Hi Bj,
Thanks for all your helpful info. 
What I should have asked was, Is there any way to use some kind of router bit on the part that shows, like near the raised part.
Also, I did use flat panels for my cedar planter and they just don't do anything for me. That is why I was so excited about this bit I got. I know the raised panels would have looked beautiful.
However, where there is a will, there's a way! Right?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome Sandy

Many,Many ways to make raised panels, flat panels that you can use a rabbit bit on and a overlay templet/guides and use the bit below for just one more way to dress them up.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1673
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1680

http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2006/Main/435

Yep ,I know MORE bits, no end to them right 

Bj


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## SandyT (Apr 28, 2006)

Bj  
Yes, those are some awesomely beautiful looking bits on those urls you just gave me.
Bits, bits, and more bits, it never ends, but the more bits you get the more you want.  
I sadly took that humongous raised panel bit back and shopped till I dropped for anything vertical or even 3" would probably have worked, but didn't find anything. However, a very kind salesman at Lowe's told me about another place to get tools, etc. Unfortunately, it was closed till Wednesday. So, I'm going to look then. But, it sure helps to know there is another way to make the raised panels as you've just shown me. 
Thanks, Bj :sold:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Sandy

I would be ashamed to tell you what I have invested in router bits... 
And I will not tell my wife hahahahahaha see would kick my butt I'm sure.
I will say it's one of the biggest investments I have in the shop.

TIP below
Don't buy a 3" panel bit yet,get a 3 1/4 HP router 1st, it takes power to spin that big bit at the right speed.
If you use your Craftsman router and try and make a OAK panel you will say I need more power ...( a Tim the Tool Man thing) hahahahaha..
The variable speed you have will slow the router down but you will also lose HP..
Routers get the HP from the RPM that's to say most do,the big 3 1/4 routers have a slow startup and variable speed built in and will give you HP at all speeds.

Bj


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## SandyT (Apr 28, 2006)

Bj,
You are right, I need a 3 1/4 HP router, haha! Well, for now I'll try some other way if I don't find a vertical raised panel bit on Wednesday. This store is supposed to be cheap and like walking into a candy store (that's what the clerk said), so I can't wait!
I am very protective about my router bits, too. I am now cleaning them after each use. Is that going overboard? But they cost so much and I sure don't want to replace the ones I have so I can get some different ones. Like the one you have introduced me to today. Wow, I love that one. And the one they use on the Router Workshop on boxes, and the beading bit they use. I saw those two at HD, but they were all locked up like jewels or something and that just makes me mad. Like woodworkers are crooks or something? No way! Well, enough ranting. Back down to the shop and do something fun. I have it all swept up and now I have to mess it up. 
Your secret is safe with me!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Sandy

They lock them up because wood workers drool all over them. 

Have a good 4th... 
Bj


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Personally, I don't believe there is a such thing as goin overboard as to cleaning an maintaining your bits. 

"They lock them up because wood workers drool all over them." 
This is also why woodworkers have those bib aprons.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Sandy, I'm gone on vacation and just checking in. You can build yourself a horizontal router table very easy, see another recent post by me about this. A vertical panel raising bit is the way to go. Much smaller diameter, can be run faster for a smoother cut, costs less too! All you need is a piece of plywood attached to the end of a bench. I will give you better info when I get home to my computer and files.


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## SandyT (Apr 28, 2006)

Thanks, Mike, I hope you have a great time on vacation!
Bj and Ken, Hmmmm, I didn't know there was a problem with rusting, hahahaha!
(Is there?)
I'm wondering now, seriously, if mineral spirits is ok to clean bits with? I don't want to make my bits worse by cleaning them with something that makes them rust. I would do a search, but I'm off to see this new candy store if you know what I mean!
Hopefully, I will come home with some new toys, I mean bits.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken
"bib aprons"
And all this time I thought it's because they called most wood workers (wood butchers) 
But I think I like yours better (blue drool bib)
Wood workers take round wood and make it sq.wood and then in turn make it round again.  endless task......and it all ends up in the fireplace after 100 years or so. 

Bj :'(


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Sandy, mineral spirits shouldn't hurt the bits, however, if you do this every time you use them, get some 3 in 1 oil or something similar and soak the bearings in the oil. As for a "rusting" problem... again, that's why we woodworkers have those "bib aprons".  


"and it all ends up in the fireplace after 100 years or so"
No such thing as "wasted wood".


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## SandyT (Apr 28, 2006)

Ken, 
Thanks for letting me know about soaking them in oil. Here is a stupid question for you. Do you separate the bearings from the bit (I wouldn't want to do that), or do you stick them in a little shot glass full of oil so that just the bearings are in the oil..........or......well, I am clueless how to do what you suggested. 
I always get sawdust everywhere when woodworking and often think of wearing the bib aprons, but I am never happier than when I'm covered head to toe in sawdust!
hahahahaha!
At the store today, they had the bits all in an enclosed case (he told me it was unlocked), but I just looked thru the plexiglass at the very expensive bits, not wanting to drool like some people I hear about!
The vertical raised panel bit was over 60 bucks so I decided to shop around. It was more like an expensive candy store. I did get some different drum sander sizes for the drill press to help sand the saw canes I'm making so it wasn't a wasted trip.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Sandy

Not all candy stores are the same and here's one that will let you beat the high price on router bits, it's sometime cheaper to buy the sets... 
You can get the vertical raised panel bit for 40.oo bucks from (see link for raised panel jig) with free shipping the norm.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5552
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5553
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5563
See this link below for more ▼
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2006/Main/431

Bj


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Sandy, you will find a decent quality vertical panel raising bit here: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5025


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

I prefer horizontal panel bits : many styles,can be used on arched & cathedral style doors and material lays flat on the table not on edge. Just my opinions.

Regards

Jerry


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jerry

I also prefer horizontal panel bits on doors,but I think the vertical bit has a place in the shop, because it's quick and easy unlike the horizontal bits.
As you know the horizontal bits take many more setups,i.e. with the fence in place,with fence removed,with the templete for the arched & cathedral style nailed to the panel and the stile to get all the parts to fit.
It's true you can't do arched & cathedral style with the vertical bit without making some firewood but I don't put arched & cathedral style on the side or on the backs of cabinets if I can help. it's waste of money and time.
The vertical bit can do it all in one shot or to say in one setup, I love to use panels for cabinet work with the T & G setup on all the panels it's quick and easy and strong with the face fame and pocket screws..
I can make a cabinet in about 2 hours but the doors can that take long time to make with the horizontal bits, they must be right it's the 1st thing that everyone looks at just like the fronts on the drawers...
I sometimes use the same vertical bit on the front of the drawers but not as deep to keep the look the same as the sides and back panels.

Have a good week 

Just my 2 cents 

Bj


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Sandy, you don't really need to remove the bearings but, it is easier if they were. If you leave them on, you'll have to wipe the oil off the bit, you don't want oil to get on your work piece. You can simply use a dixie cup and let the bit "sit" in the oil.


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

I wasn't advocating not to use vertical bits,simply stating my preference. If one is satisfied with a single style of raised panel they can be made very cost effectively on a table saw.

Regards

Jerry


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jerry
I'm not sure how you can make a O-Gee cut with a bead on a table saw, but I have a open mind.
I have and they make about 6 types of Vert.panel bits.
Plus when you make a Raised Panel on the table saw the out side of the panel needs to be 3/16" thick so it can side into the 1/4" slot,not a true fit.
Plus it locks the panel in and the panel needs to move in the slot just a bit.
Not to talk about all the sanding one needs to do to get the saw blade marks off the panel.

Like you I said I my preference was Horz.bits most of the time,because it will make the undercut (back side of the panel) at the same time so the panel is flat with the door frame.
But this can be done also by using 1/2" or 5/8" stock and vertical bit on the panel or just run the panel by a back cutter (cove) or rabbit bit on the router table when one has used 3/4" stock for the panel.

Have a good weekend Jerry

Bj


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

I said a single style on a table saw, not that it was preferred or even an efficient way to make raised panels. Like you many of us have made many raised panel doors in many ways with many types and sizes of wood. 

Regards

Jerry


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

To bad no one mentioned that you might be able to use the bit you had by way of adding a piece of 3/8" or maybe 1/2" or maybe 3/4" plywood/masonite/mdf on the table with a cut out large enough for the bit. You cut the hole center in your new "top", place it over the bit, clamp the new top to the old top so it centered..... old trick.

Now the problems can be that the router/bit will not extend tall enough to make the cuts but that shouldn't take to long to figure out. I have not looked up the router but if must have someway of locking so the bit can not be lowered into the orginal table... even a block of wood between the top of the router and the inside of the table (bottom). 

I've seen this in old router books but I personal have not tried it... 

As far as doing the panels of a table saw it works fine and with a good blade and proper set up and the sanding is not bad..... Norm has done this on a lot of his shows if you ever get to see them....

As far as plain panels, they are only as plain as you make them. You can add may details such as you can imagine to the flat surface of the panels.... sunbursts comes to mind but other things will work as well. You can even do cut outs and add picture frame molding and colored glass or plastic....... into carving? that works too....

Ed


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a NOTE****some routers can't put the bit in the right spot to use the sub.table trick but you can get a collet extension that will take care of that error.
And I'm sure Sandy will say,just one more thing I need to buy,but this will let you use the big horz.bits on your router table,with your speed control device.

Router Collet Extension 1/2" shank,for 29.oo bucks
About 1/2 of the price for this extension .

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/closeouts.asp


Bj


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## SandyT (Apr 28, 2006)

reible,
I saw this post also before it was deleted. I do hope you continue giving your input here at the forum. I wish I had known about the false tabletop and extension before I'd taken the bit back, but I will be patient and someday when I get a 3 HP or more router that will handle that humongachonga bit more easily, then I will possibly get that bit again. Thank you again for your input!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Sandy

Just one of the ways to beat the high price of bits and stock 

You may want to check out the links below, I found the main link on the RWS FORUM (Advertise) they have some great deals on panels,most are much less than the cost of the oak/maple, that it took to make them.
Most are bems or not sq.by a 1/64"to 1/32" but that's not a big deal with the right type of hing.(35mm pocket type)

Bookmark this one just incase you need some quick panels,all you will need to do is make the face frame to fit and you got it done.

North State Sales



http://stores.ebay.com/North-State-...-Doors_W0QQcolZ4QQdirZ1QQfsubZ7QQftidZ2QQtZkm

http://stores.ebay.com/North-State-Sales/Oak-Cabinet-Doors.html

Bj


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## SandyT (Apr 28, 2006)

Hi Bj,
Thank you so much for all your links :sold: 
You are always so helpful.
I will bookmark these (and they are great prices, I must say!)


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