# Using a coin as an inlay



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Not sure if this is the correct forum.

As advised in an earlier post, I am making a "Lazy Susan" and will be
using an Australian Florin as a decorative inlay.

To protect the coin from tarnishing, can anyone suggest a finish or coating to apply to the coin.

Obverse
King George V - Thomas H. Paget
Legend : *GEORGIVS VI : G : BR : OMN : REX FIDEI DEF*
Reverse
Imperial Crown, Sword and Mace, Federation Star and Stars of the Southern Cross - William Leslie Bowles
Legend: _Australia Florin 1901-1951_
Composition
50% Silver, 40% Copper, 5% Zinc, 5% Nickel
Mass
11.31 g
Size
28.5 mm (1 1/8")
Actual Silver Weight (ASW)
*0.1818 tr.oz.*
Mintage
*2,000,000*
This Australian Florin was struck to commemorate 50 years of Australian federation in 1951


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James 

I have a nasty habit of doing that on all my projects, I drill a pocket hole for the coin size, ( the new US silver dollar the norm ) glue it down and than cover and fill the hole with fiber glass resin , clear and clean and it's place forever..  1 Pint can with hardner from the auto parts store for about 16.oo bucks.

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jw2170 said:


> Not sure if this is the correct forum.
> 
> As advised in an earlier post, I am making a "Lazy Susan" and will be
> using an Australian Florin as a decorative inlay.
> ...


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

I do that also.. Its a great marker for the year it was made.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi James
> 
> I have a nasty habit of doing that on all my projects, I drill a pocket hole for the coin size, ( the new US silver dollar the norm ) glue it down and than cover and fill the hole with fiber glass resin , clear and clean and it's place forever..  1 Pint can with hardner from the auto parts store for about 16.oo bucks.
> 
> =========



I did think of using 2 part epoxy to glue it in and cover it as well.

How long would a 1 pint can last you?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

drasbell said:


> I do that also.. Its a great marker for the year it was made.


great minds think alike.......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James

A very long time  so long, I'm always buying more harder 
2 part epoxy is a bit in high price for me 
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jw2170 said:


> I did think of using 2 part epoxy to glue it in and cover it as well.
> 
> How long would a 1 pint can last you?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

My experience is that epoxy discolours with time. I would set the coin lower and rout, or if you have a hole saw the correct size, make an acrylic disk pressed into the hole with transparent setting glue around the edges.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> My experience is that epoxy discolours with time. I would set the coin lower and rout, or if you have a hole saw the correct size, make an acrylic disk pressed into the hole with transparent setting glue around the edges.


Thanks for that warning, Harry.

Sounds like a chance to use my inlay kit.......

I do have some spare acrylic laying around.


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## Metalhead781 (Jul 27, 2010)

What about clear acrylic sealer? As long as no bubbles form, couldn't it be cast over the coin?

Regards
Randy


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

A clear lacquer finish will keep the coin from tarnishing. Clear lacquer is what they apply to military brass to keep it from tarnishing. (Until a drill sgt makes you clean it all off... which means you will spend your free time polishing it.)


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

For inbebments, I use a casting resin. Over the years, none has discolored....to my knowledge. 
For stones I use a two part epoxy....frankly, I don't know the chemical difference. The epoxy doesn't seem to discolor, either.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Clear lacquer is what they apply to military brass to keep it from tarnishing"
I'm glad that you added the next bit Mike because my memory tells me that I spent a lot of time polishing my brasses when I was in the R.A.F.


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

harrysin said:


> I spent a lot of time polishing my brasses when I was in the R.A.F.


I spray paint all the brasses in our barrack block satin black - no more polishing and none of the Zobs noticed.

Epoxy does not tend to discolour but it is UV sensitive. Over a year in the sun and the surface will turn frangible unless it is protected with a coat varnish.
This is something that I am deeply aware of because I'm building a canoe out of 4 mm ply and epoxy at this moment.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Titus A Duxass said:


> I spray paint all the brasses in our barrack block satin black - no more polishing and none of the Zobs noticed.
> 
> Epoxy does not tend to discolour but it is UV sensitive. Over a year in the sun and the surface will turn frangible unless it is protected with a coat varnish.
> This is something that I am deeply aware of because I'm building a canoe out of 4 mm ply and epoxy at this moment.


Does this apply to the acrylic casting resin, or to the fiberglass epoxy, or both? Thanks.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Harry, when you were in the RAF lacquer wasnt invented... (ducking!)


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

This is what I use for my metal pieces:

1) Penetrol with a little bit of Japan dryer. Slight yellow discolouration is a risk.
2) Clear lacquer. Note that there are *big* differences in lacquers. $5 can from a big store may be poor. The other end of the scale is a stuff called Permalac which artists swear by but which costs a bit. I have had some luck with Eastwood's products.
3) Future (Pledge) Floor finish. Easy to use, non toxic, durable. One problem: reacts with copper alloys thus may not be the best choice for you. Trial application for 24 hours would tell and can be cleaned up quickly.
4) Paste wax. Needs periodic re-application.


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Mike said:


> Harry, when you were in the RAF lacquer wasnt invented... (ducking!)


When Harry joined the RAF Pontius was still in training.


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

RJM60 said:


> Does this apply to the acrylic casting resin, or to the fiberglass epoxy, or both? Thanks.


I don't know I have only experience with 2-Part Epoxy resin.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Titus A Duxass said:


> When Harry joined the RAF Pontius was still in training.


Sorry Titus, but you're wrong, he had completed training about a year before!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Titus A Duxass said:


> When Harry joined the RAF Pontius was still in training.


Was he the one who led the flight into Egypt????


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> Was he the one who led the flight into Egypt????


Nope. He was the pilot/Pilate with dirty hands. Or were they Roman hands?:no:


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## GoonMan (Mar 22, 2005)

Not for sure what it is called but wouldn't the stuff they use on Bar Tops work with out changing color. I guess it would be bar top finish or epoxy. 

My brother wants me to use it for a new counter for his bait shop.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Randy,, 3 years back, I made a toy chest for my nephew. the top was recessed and I put in the alphabet and 1-10... then filled it in with a product call MirrorCoat by SystemThree.
It is a two part epoxy system that works just great! after three years, the color remains clear as a bell. Scratches clean up with just a lil wipe on poly. Application takes patience...but worth the effort...

b.


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