# Wireless Remote for Dust Collector



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I could use your help and/or suggestions.

I have the Harbor Freight 2hp dust collector. It is in a bad spot for starting and stopping. At one time, I hooked up a cheep wireless remote and it worked OK for several months. Then it quit.

The problem is the motor is rated for 20 amps. I had an electrician run a dedicated 20 amp service just for the DC. I also cobbled up an extension cord with a 20 amp ON/OFF switch.

The switch is mounted to the work bench, which is also my outfeed table and assembly bench. If you look closely at my pictures you will see that I only have a short run of PVC pipe/flex hose. One end is connected to the table saw dust port. A second blast gate is positioned so I can hook up to the portable tools (planer, drum sander, jointer). 

What I would like to do is figure out what I can replace the ON/OFF switch with. Note that I don't want an iVac remote because I hook up to more than one tool. At least I don't think that is my solution.

I have seen several videos of people building their on remotes that operate a relay to start the motor, but most are 220v. Mine runs on 110V.

Edit: The reason I want to replace the ON/OFF switch is I want to build a new work table and take up part of that room in between the saw and the bench. The switch works just fine where it is but I would like to replace it.

Any ideas appreciated.
Thanks
Mike


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

I use a cheap wireless remote but it is only good for 10 or 15 amps so I use it to energize a 120 volt contactor (relay) rated for 30 or 40 amps and it applies & removes the 120Vac to my HF dust collector & I just leave the DC power switch on all the time. I clip the remote pendant to my shop apron so it is always handy no matter where I am in the shop.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

I have the same DC, and have been using the Long Ranger remote for 3 years without even changing the battery. It is rated for 20 amps, at least mine was--don't know if they've changed that. The signal is Omni-directional too, which means I don't have to aim it at the receiver. Garage is 36 x 24, and with the DC on the far wall it is within range. Receiver is mounted 10' above floor, feeding from the garage door opener outlet (dedicated 20 amp for opener was there--if I open the door the DC probably won't be on!!) Not cheap, but seems to work.

earl


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

tvman44 said:


> I use a cheap wireless remote but it is only good for 10 or 15 amps so I use it to energize a 120 volt contactor (relay) rated for 30 or 40 amps and it applies & removes the 120Vac to my HF dust collector & I just leave the DC power switch on all the time. I clip the remote pendant to my shop apron so it is always handy no matter where I am in the shop.


I like that idea. However, I am kinda dumb when it comes to relays/contactors and such.

Did you mount it in a box? Pictures would be great.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

greenacres2 said:


> I have the same DC, and have been using the Long Ranger remote for 3 years without even changing the battery. It is rated for 20 amps, at least mine was--don't know if they've changed that. The signal is Omni-directional too, which means I don't have to aim it at the receiver. Garage is 36 x 24, and with the DC on the far wall it is within range. Receiver is mounted 10' above floor, feeding from the garage door opener outlet (dedicated 20 amp for opener was there--if I open the door the DC probably won't be on!!) Not cheap, but seems to work.
> 
> earl


I like that idea also.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

My dust collector is hooked up to a wireless system , but it was blowing the resettable breaker as it couldn't take the amperage draw of the DC . 
I used a relay that I bought at an electrical distributor , that is actually called a Contactor for some weird reason , and it works great .

I'm not sure of this is what your after, a way to take the draw off the switching unit ? 
If it is , I will take mine apart and get you pics and a explanation of how it's wired


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

tvman44 said:


> I use a cheap wireless remote but it is only good for 10 or 15 amps so I use it to energize a 120 volt contactor (relay) rated for 30 or 40 amps and it applies & removes the 120Vac to my HF dust collector & I just leave the DC power switch on all the time. I clip the remote pendant to my shop apron so it is always handy no matter where I am in the shop.



Me too!

http://www.routerforums.com/kp91s-gallery/97769-why-spend-60-when-you-can-build-30-a.html


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> I used a relay that I bought at an electrical distributor , that is actually called a Contactor for some weird reason , and it works great .


Rick, they are called contactors because before the advent of solid state, they were were big mechanical lumps with large magnets that energised moving "contact" arms to make or break.
Basically very large NVR switches like this;
https://www.google.com.cy/imgres?im...sPQAhWE2BoKHYW-BvIQMwg-KA8wDw&iact=mrc&uact=8

Mostly nowadays household sizes are all plastic non moving parts which is why they are called relays.


Mike, do you really need a remote? 
my dust collector is wired with two wall switches, one each end of the workshop, wired just the same way as an upstairs hall light is operated from the top and the bottom of the stairs. Its possible to wire three switches into the circuit and put them wherever you want. That way I never have to "go find" the remote, or worry about battery life.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Me, I don't like remotes much, figure just one more gadget that will screw up. So, I do it the old fashioned way. Something like what you have, I would have a long cord, then plug it in when I wanted to run it, unplug it when I didn't want to run it. Very reliable.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I did exactly the same as Bob.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

I have an older model of this Buy iVAC PRO 115-Volt Remote Control For Dust Collectors at Woodcraft.com

My shop is in the basement and the remote works even from my 2nd floor bedroom.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

paduke said:


> My shop is in the basement and the remote works even from my 2nd floor bedroom.


that is an extensive test of the remote's range


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> I like that idea. However, I am kinda dumb when it comes to relays/contactors and such.
> 
> Did you mount it in a box? Pictures would be great.


I did mount it all in a box, but cannot take any pictures as all my shop & house is packed in boxes since the August flooding. It will be at least 2 to 3 more months before I can set up my shop again after I get back in the house & get that all set up again. But it is really simple. I can turn my DC on / off from my house If I want to & that is 40 to 50 feet away. Works great, I have had that set up a couple of years now with no problems.


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

tvman44 said:


> I use a cheap wireless remote but it is only good for 10 or 15 amps so I use it to energize a 120 volt contactor (relay) rated for 30 or 40 amps and it applies & removes the 120Vac to my HF dust collector & I just leave the DC power switch on all the time. I clip the remote pendant to my shop apron so it is always handy no matter where I am in the shop.


Me too! :smile:




sunnybob said:


> .
> 
> 
> Mike, do you really need a remote?
> my dust collector is wired with two wall switches, one each end of the workshop, wired just the same way as an upstairs hall light is operated from the top and the bottom of the stairs. Its possible to wire three switches into the circuit and put them wherever you want. That way I never have to "go find" the remote, or worry about battery life.


Yes I really need a remote, its very useful, when you work in several machines and in a crowded shop. :wink:



Cherryville Chuck said:


> I did exactly the same as Bob.


+3


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks for everyone's advice and suggestions.

As mentioned, it is difficult to reach the switch on the DC so that was why I wired up a switch in the middle of an extension cord. This has worked out well because the switch box and the two blast gates are in the same vicinity. So, I only have to bend over once to switch the gates and turn on the DC! :surprise::grin:

So, it looks like I have three options:

Buy the Long Ranger Remote
Buy the iVac Pro Remote
Cobble up a reasonable facsimile

I probably would be safer buying a ready made product off the shelf because, like I said, I am not an electrician. Wiring diagrams give me a headache. Piping diagrams are no problem, electrical...UGH!

Maybe I will know more after I visit the HD or Lowe's. However, I doubt I will find anyone at either store that would know what I was wanting to do. "Electrical?"...Isle 13! >

That's about as far is it gets with their help.

OR, maybe I will talk to my son when he gets here in a little while. Today is our Thanksgiving dinner here at our house. He works for the local school district and does maintenance on their low voltage equipment. Maybe he can shed some light on the subject! :grin:


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

If you want, you should be able to just move the switch. You may have to change the wires if they won't reach the new location.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

TenGees said:


> If you want, you should be able to just move the switch. You may have to change the wires if they won't reach the new location.


I have thought about it but there really isn't another good place to move it to. :frown:


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## IRestore (Mar 28, 2015)

I have the same unit and I use a remote switch even though it says it is rated for 1 1/2 hP units, the electrical specs show that it will handle the 2hp Harbor Freight dust collector.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

kp91 said:


> that is an extensive test of the remote's range


I wear bibs click the fob to the suspenders. It fell on the floor when I was going to bed. That night when answering natures call I stepped on it and at first couldn't figure out where that noise came from. That was how it was tested


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

paduke said:


> I wear bibs click the fob to the suspenders. It fell on the floor when I was going to bed. That night when answering natures call I stepped on it and at first couldn't figure out where that noise came from. That was how it was tested


I knew there must have been a story behind it :smile:


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

If I don't unplug mine at night one of my neighbors garage door openers or some other "remote" signal will occasionally kick it off. The darn thing started on its own one afternoon while I was in the shop, a bit of a fright one might say. Otherwise I'm very happy with mine. Have one on the Dc and a separate one on the shop vac and they do not interact. 

Rockler has a 220v remote for about $80.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

JFPNCM said:


> If I don't unplug mine at night one of my neighbors garage door openers or some other "remote" signal will occasionally kick it off. The darn thing started on its own one afternoon while I was in the shop, a bit of a fright one might say. Otherwise I'm very happy with mine. Have one on the Dc and a separate one on the shop vac and they do not interact.
> 
> Rockler has a 220v remote for about $80.


Which one? iVac or Long Ranger?
I got lost in the replies. 

I think for now, I am going to do nothing. At least I know there are a couple of wireless models that will work on my DC.

I will get more serious when I get around to building a new work table.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

@MT Stringer

Greetings Mike:

Both of my remotes are from Shop Fox and are rated at 120v 15 amp. I bought them at a local woodcraft store probably 8-10 years ago and they are still running strong.


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