# Need Advice on Cutting this Profile



## mikedpp (Jan 21, 2014)

Good Evening,

I am relatively new with a router but have used it successfully in my woodworking projects for edging. I have been trying to use it for something more complicated and have been having trouble doing so. Basically, I want to use the router to cut a pattern or profile in 1"x3" stock as shown in the attached picture. I have made patterns out of masonite and have tried both straight pattern bits and spiral bits with collars with and without a router table and I just don't think I know the "secret" to doing this. My last attempt was with a spiral bit and a router table, and I snapped the bit without putting much lateral pressure on the bit. 

Please take a look at this picture and tell me how an experienced router user would go about this.

Thanks for your help,

Mike D


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, Mike.

What size spiral bit did you snap. A 1/8" or smaller cutter likes slow feed rate.

Like you, I would use a pattern and a template trim cutter.


----------



## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Hi and greetings Mike, welcome to the router forum community.
Are you hogging out the whole piece or cutting the main part out and then cleaning it up.
Using a small bit cutting a piece out that size your bit is cutting three sides at once causeing a lot of heat. Try using the largest bit that will work with your pattern, if not cut out as much excess as possible before routing


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I would try jig sawing, band sawing, or drilling out as much of the waste first too. If you're using a plunge router you could rout1/3 or 1/2 the depth at a time. Just to make sure, were you starting at the left end of the picture and working to the right in a clockwise pattern?


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mike, it looks very much like this pot holder that I routed many years ago. Unfortunately I didn't make the template but it's simple enough to make, the opening has to be larger than the finished size by twice the offset. this is calculated by deciding the diameter of the template guide and bit hence: guide dia.=1.25", bit diam=0.25" so, the size of template cutout is: 1.25"-0.25"+ size of cutout.
It would be of long term help to you if you completed your public profile Mike.


----------



## mikedpp (Jan 21, 2014)

Good Morning,

The spiral bit that I snapped was a 1/4". That was the largest bit I could use given the size of the profile. I was trying to hog out the entire profile by moving the work piece to the left across the router table. For what I am attempting to do, it just seems like there is too much material to remove with one pass of the router. I was hoping it was possible, but I believe it puts too much strain on a solid carbide spiral bit. 

I will probably need to use some of your suggestions like using a band saw to remove most of the material first and finish with the router or using a plunge router and taking a couple passes.

Thanks,

Mike D


----------



## majnun (Nov 28, 2013)

You're cutting too deeply. Start off cutting no more than 3/16 deep and listen to the motor. If it doesn't scream, lower the bit to 1/4". Then finish the cut with two more passes 1/4" deep each. Also a bit with a 1/2" shank will not break. Hogging a router, saw or any other cutting tools stresses the motor and the bearings, belts etc. It is to be avoided. Listen to the machines. Keep your edges sharp.


----------



## mikedpp (Jan 21, 2014)

Thanks very much for your comments. I will try again!


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

mikedpp said:


> Good Evening,
> 
> I am relatively new with a router but have used it successfully in my woodworking projects for edging. I have been trying to use it for something more complicated and have been having trouble doing so. Basically, I want to use the router to cut a pattern or profile in 1"x3" stock as shown in the attached picture. I have made patterns out of masonite and have tried both straight pattern bits and spiral bits with collars with and without a router table and I just don't think I know the "secret" to doing this. My last attempt was with a spiral bit and a router table, and I snapped the bit without putting much lateral pressure on the bit.
> 
> ...


Well, I can tell you how 'I' do stuff like that. I use 1/2" plywood for my pattern/templates. I'd use a scrollsaw, and cut a perfect design of whatever. Then I'd glue that onto another piece of 1/2" plywood, and when the glue was dry, I'd rout, using the first as the master. Then I'd tack it on the back of the piece I wanted to rout, the nail holes won't show that way. Then rout. I always make my stuff so I can use a 1/2" flush trim bit. Oh yes, like the guys said, I'd cut out as much material as possible, to get as close as possible to the routed line. I could hog it, with the 1/2" bit, but prefer not to if I can avoid it. If necessary, take a series of very light cuts. I did not tell you how to do it, I told you how I would do it. I only use 1/4" bits when there is very little access, smaller than 1/2".


----------



## mikedpp (Jan 21, 2014)

Thanks for the great advice. 

Mike D


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

What is that going to be?


----------



## mikedpp (Jan 21, 2014)

Ok, here is what I did. First I used a scroll saw to remove as much material as possible, which, after some practice, does not take much time. Then I bought a very cheap 1"x30" belt sander from Harbor Freight which was $32 after the sale price and a 20% off coupon. I split the belt in half so that I was only using a 1/2' wide belt. This enabled me to very effectively remove the remaining material, if any, from the scroll saw cut. It ended up working much better than I expected without the risk of the router flinging my work across the shop.

Mike D


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Any solution which eliminates risk of injury or damaged tools is a good one.


----------

