# Router base/table screw patterns



## kweagle (Mar 17, 2012)

Hi Everyone. 

I recently bought a second hand, like new, General International table saw. The saw has a cast iron router table extension. This works great for my shop, as I do limited router table work, so it saves on room. My problem is the table has a 4 screw pattern for the router, all of my routers, Craftsmen, Porter Cable, and Makita, have a 3 screw pattern. I have searched everywhere I can think of, and only see 3 screw patterns. 

The guy I bought the saw from had a Craftsmen router in the table. I had an opportunity to buy his router for $150, but I never thought at the time that I would have any issues with mine, plus the fact that I am not a fan of craftsmen tools. 

Do you guys know of any routers with a 4 screw pattern that would fit in this table? 

Thanks for the help!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

The Old type Craftsman routers have 4 holes the newer Craftsman routers have 3 holes but it's not a big deal just pull off the black plate on your router and use it for the drilling template, plus you don't need the black plate on your router table.just put in a safe place so you have on hand if you want to switch out the router down the road..


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kweagle said:


> Hi Everyone.
> 
> I recently bought a second hand, like new, General International table saw. The saw has a cast iron router table extension. This works great for my shop, as I do limited router table work, so it saves on room. My problem is the table has a 4 screw pattern for the router, all of my routers, Craftsmen, Porter Cable, and Makita, have a 3 screw pattern. I have searched everywhere I can think of, and only see 3 screw patterns.
> 
> ...


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## kweagle (Mar 17, 2012)

I had considered that, but I would prefer to avoid drilling another set of holes in the table at all costs. The saw and table extension is less than 6 years old. Surely there is a manufacture that makes a router with the 4 hole pattern? Or am I being too optimistic? 

I dont mind spending the money on a new router for the table, as the ones I have are not as powerful as I would prefer for a table.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Many Mfg.make routers that come with the 4 bolt hole pattern but not in the same pattern to fit your table, no real standard for the hole patterns..
It's not a big deal to drill the holes out I have one router mounting plate that has 16 holes in it for diff.brand of routers so they can bolt right up to it..... 


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kweagle said:


> I had considered that, but I would prefer to avoid drilling another set of holes in the table at all costs. The saw and table extension is less than 6 years old. Surely there is a manufacture that makes a router with the 4 hole pattern? Or am I being too optimistic?
> 
> I dont mind spending the money on a new router for the table, as the ones I have are not as powerful as I would prefer for a table.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Because of the fact there is no standard for mounting holes number or spacing you will have to measure the hole size and the size of the pattern drilled in the table. Sears sold the Craftsman 26620 router which is a Bosch 1617 that was rebadged in Craftsman colors. The sub base plate on these routers attaches with 3 screws but when you remove the plate you reveal a 4 hole table mounting set of threaded holes. The Porter Cable 7518 uses a 4 hole pattern as well.


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## kweagle (Mar 17, 2012)

Mike said:


> Because of the fact there is no standard for mounting holes number or spacing you will have to measure the hole size and the size of the pattern drilled in the table. Sears sold the Craftsman 26620 router which is a Bosch 1617 that was rebadged in Craftsman colors. The sub base plate on these routers attaches with 3 screws but when you remove the plate you reveal a 4 hole table mounting set of threaded holes. The Porter Cable 7518 uses a 4 hole pattern as well.


Thanks for the info. The Porter Cable you mentioned appears to have the same hole configuration, and also looks to be a good router for a table mount.

The holes on my table are in a square pattern, at 3 9/16" apart (6" diagonal). Perhaps if someone has this router (or another with a 4 hole pattern) they could verify the distances on them?

If it is necessary, I would consider drilling a new set of holes, but would rather just get a router that fits the original set. Whatever router I put in the table, is going to be the router that stays in the table for good, so I am not too concerned about the ability to fit a variety of other routers in it.


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## kweagle (Mar 17, 2012)

Correction.... Should have said 5" diagonal...


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## Steve B. (Mar 4, 2012)

I have a similar router extension table on my tablesaw. The extension is removable. It sounds like you REALLY don't want to drill more holes in the table, so if Mike's idea doesn't work you might be able to try this: cut a piece of good, smooth plywood or MDF that will fit the underside of your extension table. In the wood drill out the hole pattern for your router and a large hole for the bits to extend upward through. Mount the router to the underside of the wood and attach the wood to the underside of the extension table by whatever means are convenient. Clamps are my first thought. Problems: the thickness of the wood mounting piece will reduce the distance your bits can extend upward through the top of the table. Also the wood mounting piece should be strong enough not to sag and fitted flat so that the router is at perfect right angles to the table. Steve B.


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## kweagle (Mar 17, 2012)

Steve B. said:


> I have a similar router extension table on my tablesaw. The extension is removable. It sounds like you REALLY don't want to drill more holes in the table, so if Mike's idea doesn't work you might be able to try this: cut a piece of good, smooth plywood or MDF that will fit the underside of your extension table. In the wood drill out the hole pattern for your router and a large hole for the bits to extend upward through. Mount the router to the underside of the wood and attach the wood to the underside of the extension table by whatever means are convenient. Clamps are my first thought. Problems: the thickness of the wood mounting piece will reduce the distance your bits can extend upward through the top of the table. Also the wood mounting piece should be strong enough not to sag and fitted flat so that the router is at perfect right angles to the table. Steve B.


Thanks for the suggestion, it is a good tip. Two reasons why I would prefer not drilling a new set of holes. First being, I would like to have a more powerful router than the ones I currently have, for my table. If I am going to buy a router, it seems to only make sense to buy one that fits the table without modification if possible. Second reason, I do not really like the idea of more holes in the table than needed. It potentially reduces resale value, and with the routers I have, the hole placement would be rather close to the existing holes. 

Thanks for the suggestion though. I will likely look into an option like that before drilling a new set of holes.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Sounds like you're open to replacing your router. I suggest you take a sheet of paper and lay it on the existing mounting holes, then punch holes where the existing threaded holes are located. Then go shopping and compare the holes in the bases of the Bosch 1617 in particular, and other routers if necessary.


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