# New Router Table



## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

For several years I owned 2- low HP, low quality, department store routers. They would only accept 1/4" bits, were not easy to adjust, and were just no fun to use. So they just sat. Then I discovered The Router Workshop on PBS(about 3 episodes before it went off the air). While searching for info on where to view it I found this forum and have been hooked ever since.

The two old routers went out by way of Ebay and I got a PC 9690 and built a portable table. It worked fine but I soon found several ways to improve it and built #2 (still portable). Then I got a Hitachi KM12VC kit (more HP and first plunge router) and built a horizontal table.

Now my needs for a vertical table had changed. The hitachi is a little taller than the PC. And with the horizontal table for raized panels I dont need a large table surface. Plus with all the info and knowlege I have gained from this site my router is now used more than any other tool I own. So I wanted the new table to be its own self contained unit (not perched on top of something else). With storage for all my bits and accesories. And decided to make it entirely of MDF because I like the way it looks.

The top is 2 pieces of MDF glued and screwed together making it 1 1/2" thick and wrapped with MDF. The plate is the standard 3/8" phenolic one thats sold everywhere. The fence allthough modified several times was built for table #1. It has a homemade dust port and the switch on the side turns on the shop-vac and router at the same time. Behind the top doors there is nothing but the cavity where the router hangs. Behind the lower doors is storage and a drawer for bits, wrenches, and guides. The bits are in removable trays made of 3/4" MDF with 1/2" holes drilled all the way through and 1/4" hardboard attached to the bottom. The whole thing rides on four 3" total locking casters I got on sale at Grizzly.

Sorry for the long intro but I want everyone to know how much I appreciate this forum and its members. The wealth of information here has caused me to do at least a little woodworking allmost daily (and spend loads of money).

Thanks Everyone, Rusty


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Very nicely done Rusty. I have a suggestion for an additional feature that may interest you. Draw a line to one of the corners from the bit. By locating a series of holes along this line to fit your safety pin (as a pivot point), you have a built in circle jig. This is handy if you make a lot of wheels or round table tops.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Rusty, that is one sweet looking table you have made there. Very professional looking. Keep up the great work and thanks for posting the pics of it.


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## mpphoto (May 7, 2006)

Well done, looks great!
What finish did you use on the top?

Michael


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rusty

That's a GREAT Looking Router Table 
You did a great job, take 4 1/2 gold stars out of petty cash 
I only see one error and that's not bad at all...again nice job.


Bj


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Michael, so far there is'nt any finish on it. For the table surface I'm planning to use Johnson & Johnson paste wax as recommended by BJ. Not sure yet what I will put on the bottom.

BJ, I'm curious as to the error you saw? While assembling I realized I made the top doors to short. Or was it for ventalation to keep the router from over heating..HaHaHa.

Rusty


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## mpphoto (May 7, 2006)

Thanks Rusty. I asked because I'm working on a few mdf/hardboard jigs and tables and haven't decided how to finish them yet. I'm thinking waterbourne poly and wax.

Michael


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rusty

The only thing I saw was the router was to far back, I can see why you put it in that spot but when you want to put in a dado slot more than 4 " from the edge you will run out of table and fence hold down clamps, but you could just flip the fence around but then again the fence is a be short on the sides to clamp it down to top.

I did see the extra holes in the fence base plate for the hold down clamps but it looks like that will only give you a 3 1/4 offset.

But that's just me and just my 2 cents but It looks great 

Bj


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

BJ, The fence allthough modified several times was made for my 1st table and I'm planning to make a new one for this one. As soon as I put it on I realized I could'nt back it off far enough to lift out the plate without the bolts dropping out of the track. Will probably build something much more simple that wraps the table edge. And clamps from the edge or underneath. I really like the pics I've seen of yours with the removable T&G inserts.

Rusty


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## GoonMan (Mar 22, 2005)

WOW Rusty Fantastic Job. I just wish I had the time to make a new router table. 

I thought I would run out of Projects to make but the boss just put in a order for 3 tables, 3 5' shelves and a 6'x32"x10" Chicken Coop, basicly a 15 compartment box with Chickenwire on the back. She saw this in one of her magazines. Keeps me out of trouble.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rusty

The T & G fence works great and it's all made of the MDF 3/4" thick stock that's much cheaper than the poly. stock.
It's nice to have a clamp down side blocks but make them so they come off, most of the time you will not need them. 
80% of your routering on the router table will be with bits that have bearings on the bits.
I use a pin type fence that's to say if I want the router to come out the top I just swing the fence to one side or off the back and pull the router out the top with the base plate if I need to work on it and the fence can be just pulled right back in to place and go back to work.
That's to say you don't need to remove the fence most of the time, it's about the same as Bob & Ricks but you don't need unclamp the fence just pull the pin and swing it out and away.
The snap pin I got from sommerfeld tools and they used it on the fence they had for sale, but no longer sale but the parts they still have on hand at the right price but they don't list them on the web site a call to the 888 number is needed to get one.

The way I mounted to the MDF was a bit trickey but not that hard,It's a snap pin that locks at the up lift up and turn to the left or right about a 1/4" then let it drop and it will stay up so you can just push the fence out of the way.

The pin is metric threaded and I didn't have the right tap size ,so I put in a couter bor hole on the top and the bottom of the MDF fence base about 1/4" deep on both then I found a 5/8" drill and drilled a hole for the pin to just slip in, then I found a 5/18-18 hex nut and a 3/8 NPT pipe tap and rethreated the nut down to 1/2" deep in the nut from both sides of the nut then I took the hack saw and cut off 3/16" from ea. side of the nut to make two jam nuts then screwed one nuts all the way up on the pin then I slip it in the hole and put the other nut on the bottom of the pin in the couter bor hole on the bottom side of the fence.
The nut on the top is on a washer under the nut and the one on the bottom side of the side of the fence as no washer under the nut so it will pull into the MDF stock and lock it in place.
Now it's locked in the fence with the two jam nuts.
The pin size is 3/8" dia. and sticks out about 1/2" from the base of the fence.
It takes a bit of math to drill the pin hole in the router table but it's based on the center point of the router bit, I have two holes so I can use big bits and small ones with just a quick snap of the pin.
On the other end of the fence has the lock knob with 1/4-20 threads that is screwed into a 1/4-20 t-nut that's glued in place with that good old monkey glue.

Just a note ,I always cut the sharp points off the t-nuts when I use them and just have about 1/16" of the point left, in that way they hold but don't split the wood and they always go in all the way, I also use a " N " bit size to dill the hole for the t-nut, the true barrel O.D. size of the nut.

Also the lock down knob as a slot 5/16" wide about 4" long that leys you move the fence to the right spot and clamp it down quick and easy.

If you want to see a snapshot just ask and I will post one or two.


Bj


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