# My New Router



## grbrico (Feb 16, 2012)

Bought me a new router today from Sears. Can't wait to start trying it out.
12-amp, 2-hp Fixed/Plunge Base Router with Soft Start Technology- Craftsman-Tools-Portable Power Tools-Routers & Laminate Trimmers

Also bought me a Craftsman Radial Arm saw with stand today. I got it for 75.00 and it runs great.

Greg


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Greg, these new Craftsman combo's offer the most features for the least money and are popular with members. BobJ3 highly recommends them; I think he owns 5 of them? Enjoy!


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Sounds like a great deal


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

I picked up mine at Sears last week. I haven't plugged it in yet and haven't read the manual which I intend to do.
I used the pickup at store online option - which is very convenient.


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

I bought one last year (my Christmas present) when it was on sale plus Craftsman Club members got an additional discount. It is a great router and beats my Harbor Freight (HF, now I got it) plunge router hands down. I have had a couple of issues though. 
I wanted to use a larger bit than the hole will allow, but I can't get the base plate off. They must have welded those screws in. And in the parts breakdown, they list the two collet assemblies with different part numbers but no descriptions. If anyone is interested, the part number 2823125000, item number 99 is the 1/4 collet. I wanted to order one for my Harbor Freight which I have mounted in my homemade tabletop.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bill

The tool below will take them out easy,steel screws and Alum. don't mix well.
they like to gull in place so to say a little tap is needed to break them free,that's small hint (small tap with a screw driver)

7 Piece Reversible Impact Driver Set 93481 alternate photo #1
7 Piece Reversible Impact Driver Set 

7 Piece Reversible Impact Driver Set

==



williamm said:


> I bought one last year (my Christmas present) when it was on sale plus Craftsman Club members got an additional discount. It is a great router and beats my Harbor Freight (HF, now I got it) plunge router hands down. I have had a couple of issues though.
> I wanted to use a larger bit than the hole will allow, but I can't get the base plate off. They must have welded those screws in. And in the parts breakdown, they list the two collet assemblies with different part numbers but no descriptions. If anyone is interested, the part number 2823125000, item number 99 is the 1/4 collet. I wanted to order one for my Harbor Freight which I have mounted in my homemade tabletop.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

williamm said:


> I bought one last year (my Christmas present) when it was on sale plus Craftsman Club members got an additional discount. It is a great router and beats my Harbor Freight (HF, now I got it) plunge router hands down. I have had a couple of issues though.
> I wanted to use a larger bit than the hole will allow, but I can't get the base plate off. They must have welded those screws in. And in the parts breakdown, they list the two collet assemblies with different part numbers but no descriptions. If anyone is interested, the part number 2823125000, item number 99 is the 1/4 collet. I wanted to order one for my Harbor Freight which I have mounted in my homemade tabletop.


Hi Bill - Bj already gave you the hint on removing the screws. I'm wondering if the Craftsman collet will work in the Harbor Freight router. I'm a little skeptical that they will as, not only do the size and threads need to match up, but the taper on the collet needs to match the internal taper of the armature shaft. There is no known standard to my knowledge.:wacko:


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## grbrico (Feb 16, 2012)

Also bought a Craftsman Radial Arm saw off of a local for sale site. Paid 75.00 for it and it came with a new Freud blade plus all the manuals and the red plastic covered book for Radial saws. I checked on the recall and my saw does not qualify for the new blade guard. I'm going to make my own. Went to a estate auction and bought a old wood plane that is about 21 inches long and a craftsman 10" cast iron table saw. Got both for $26.00. 

Also got some new clamps, fostner and brad point bit.
I think the first thing I'm going to do is build a table for the radial arm. It came with the original stand but no table. 

Thanks to all the members for the great threads that have given me so much great info on woodworking. 

Greg


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## grbrico (Feb 16, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Bill
> 
> The tool below will take them out easy,steel screws and Alum. don't mix well.
> they like to gull in place so to say a little tap is needed to break them free,that's small hint (small tap with a screw driver)
> ...


Bob,
Do you have any ideas of how to make the blade guard for the radial arm? BTW I am going to get me the Impact Driver Set. Thanks for the info.

Greg


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Greg

You're Welcome,,it's easy thing to make for the RAS but it's best to get one that fits the RAS, drop Mike a note and ask him for a lead for a used one..he found me a power switch for the one I have,,he is a GREAT guy..

Router Forums - View Profile: AxlMyk

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grbrico said:


> Bob,
> Do you have any ideas of how to make the blade guard for the radial arm? BTW I am going to get me the Impact Driver Set. Thanks for the info.
> 
> Greg


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

*Thanks*



bobj3 said:


> Hi Bill
> 
> The tool below will take them out easy,steel screws and Alum. don't mix well.
> they like to gull in place so to say a little tap is needed to break them free,that's small hint (small tap with a screw driver)
> ...


I will run down to HF today to get one and give it a try.


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

*I have already tried it, and it seems to work*



jschaben said:


> Hi Bill - Bj already gave you the hint on removing the screws. I'm wondering if the Craftsman collet will work in the Harbor Freight router. I'm a little skeptical that they will as, not only do the size and threads need to match up, but the taper on the collet needs to match the internal taper of the armature shaft. There is no known standard to my knowledge.:wacko:


The reason I purchased the 1/4 inch collet was to keep with my HF router in the table top I made. I have already used the collet that came with the Craftsman router and it fit on the spindle with no problems. I am not definitely sure about the taper but they looked the same. But I know for certain that I haven't killed myself, yet. I have used it to put an ogee edge on some pine and to make a 3/8 inch rabbit.


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## grbrico (Feb 16, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Greg
> 
> You're Welcome,,it's easy thing to make for the RAS but it's best to get one that fits the RAS, drop Mike a note and ask him for a lead for a used one..he found me a power switch for the one I have,,he is a GREAT guy..
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob. I have the guard that came with it but was going to add more so that all of the blade is covered. My RAS was not eligible for the free upgrade from Emerson.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Bill
> 
> The tool below will take them out easy,steel screws and Alum. don't mix well.
> they like to gull in place so to say a little tap is needed to break them free,that's small hint (small tap with a screw driver)
> ...


Simple tap with a hammer on a screw driver and mine came free. Easy as pie.
Of course if you like collecting tools, buy the HF item.
Otherwise just try the hammer tap before you burn your expensive fuel.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Right on ,,the hammer driver will do the same it just turns the screw little bit at the same time..to break the screw free,about 1/4 of a turn..or it can be used to set the screws tight without stripping the phil or slot out..

==


rwl7532 said:


> Simple tap with a hammer on a screw driver and mine came free. Easy as pie.
> Of course if you like collecting tools, buy the HF item.
> Otherwise just try the hammer tap before you burn your expensive fuel.


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

rwl7532 said:


> Simple tap with a hammer on a screw driver and mine came free. Easy as pie.
> Of course if you like collecting tools, buy the HF item.
> Otherwise just try the hammer tap before you burn your expensive fuel.


That was the second thing I tried. It just wouldn't budge. I got the HF tool, but haven't made the time to try it since I was using the router. Maybe tomorrow.:moil:


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## grbrico (Feb 16, 2012)

I got my table for the radial arm saw built today. For the front table I used some oak plywood that had. It is 17 1/4 x 35 1/4. I put the blade in the ripping position with the indicator set at 0. I lined up the back of the front table with the inside of the blade. I then marked the holes for the 1/4-20 bolts that will hold the table down to the stand. Once that was done I drilled the 6 holes for the t-nuts that will be used to level the table. I counter sunk the holes so that the t-nuts would be below the surface of the table. I then installed the front table. The next thing I did was remove the blade and turn the motor down toward the table. I moved the carriage to the six spots checking to see if the table was level. I used a scale to do this. I put the scale down on the table and lowered the motor down until the shaft touched the scale. I lowered it until there was a little friction on the scale when I moved it between the table and motor shaft. I did this at all six points on the table until all six spots were the same. It took a few tries doing this. The fence and the back table were the next thing to be done. I used oak also for these too. I am not doing the 3 part table since I will not be ripping on the radial arm. I made the back table 6 inches wide. Table and fence are both square with the blade. Over all I enjoyed building the table. It sure was hot in the garage LOL. Had to break out the old box fan. I read a lot of web pages and the manual that came with the saw to get down the method of how to do the table. 
Tomorrow I am going to start building some corn hole boards for my brother. They really liked playing the game when they came up last week for my daughter's graduation. 

Greg


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

*HF tool worked, almost*



williamm said:


> That was the second thing I tried. It just wouldn't budge. I got the HF tool, but haven't made the time to try it since I was using the router. Maybe tomorrow.:moil:


I finally used that impact driver from HF. It worked great for the first five screws (3 in each base) but for the last one... it was jammed. I finally worked the screw out but the tool is shot. I took it back and got a new one but I figure they didn't harden the steel enough and it mushroomed inside. Oh well, for five bucks what can I expect.


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## grbrico (Feb 16, 2012)

Well I got my new blade for the RAS Saturday (Freud LU91M010) . I installed the blade and checked the alignment of the new blade with the table and the fence. Made my first cuts on two by fours and they came out really square. The cuts came out very clean also. I think I am going to really like using it.

I am looking at different hold down clamps to install on the table that will hold down the material while I am making the cut. Just trying to be as safe as possible. I think I will be asking bobj3 about what he recommends to use for clamps. 

Greg


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## grbrico (Feb 16, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Bill
> 
> The tool below will take them out easy,steel screws and Alum. don't mix well.
> they like to gull in place so to say a little tap is needed to break them free,that's small hint (small tap with a screw driver)
> ...


I had a heck of a time getting my base plate off yesterday so that I could begin making a circle cutting jig.:help: The screws were very tight. Rounded the phillips head on two of the screws. Used a dewalt impact to get one out but the other had other plans LOL. I got a center drill and drilled it until the head popped off then I removed the plastic base plate. The bolt actually broke off even with the top of the aluminum base plate so I had to do something else. I placed a nut over the broken bolt and filled the nut up with weld. Once that was done I just used a wrench to turn out the rest of the threads. Screw removed! Got the bolt pattern off the base plate so I could start making the circle cutting jig. I will be putting flat head allen screws back in the base plate. I will have the jig completed before long. Been having to work on my truck so no free time.

Greg


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