# fixed, but removable fence stops



## jbrukardt (May 1, 2012)

I have a bit of a unique problem that im trying to solve. I use about 6 positions on my router fence very consistently, and in fairly random order. 

Id like to put some stop in either a t-track, or a miter track behind the fence at these positions, so that i can just push the fence up against them, and not have to measure placement every time (my eyesight is pretty terrible, it takes me quite some time to align a fence to 1/16th). 

However, the catch is that when that stop wasnt in use, it would need to get out of the way somehow so that the fence could be pushed over it until it hit the next further back stop. I was thinking removable pegs at those locations, but ill lose the pegs for sure, and want something more fixed, maybe a metal "hinge" mechanism that flips up or something.

Any ideas?

My current table setup below, i have a combo track which the fence slides into. the miter track keeps the fence square, and the t-track is used for locking the fence down and other jogs. Im hoping i can put these "pin stops" or flip stops in the t track somehow. But when not in use, they need to hide away below table depth in the track.

If i had tracks on the side of my table, i could use traditional flip stops, but i dont.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

i like the peg idea, sort of like bench dogs ... 

how about a few more holes in the base of the fence or on the side of the table or somewhere else out of the way to store the pegs when not in use? you can also put them on strings so they wouldn't go far if they fell.


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## jbrukardt (May 1, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> i like the peg idea, sort of like bench dogs ...
> 
> how about a few more holes in the base of the fence or on the side of the table or somewhere else out of the way to store the pegs when not in use? you can also put them on strings so they wouldn't go far if they fell.


hmm, so heres the second question, if i use pegs, what do i mount them into in the t-track? most t-track accessories have big handles that sit well above the track, im not even sure how you would secure something like a peg holder into a t-track while keeping it flush

Woodpeckers t-track block is the smallest thing ive seen

T Track Block


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Think about a Cribbage board setup that just sits/slides in the tee track and locked into place with set screw..the peg are no real strong but you can use 1/8" or 1/4" dowel pins,then stick up a magnet to the cabinet inside to hold them for you..

This is what I use because I don't have tee tracks. see below


===


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## jbrukardt (May 1, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> Think about a Cribbage board setup that just sits/slides in the tee track and locked into place with set screw..the peg are no real strong but you can use 1/8" or 1/4" dowel pins,then stick up a magnet to the cabinet inside to hold them for you..
> 
> ===


they dont have to be very strong, theyre just gentle stop points. 

Cant quite picture the "cribbage board setup" Just a rail with a bunch of holes in it?

And yeah, i guess i can lock down a 1/4 inch nut with a set screw that would keep the "board" level with the track. Just have to find a set screw of the right size


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

" Cant quite picture the "cribbage board setup" Just a rail with a bunch of holes in it? " you got it..
http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Game-...ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1336167784&sr=1-1
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10120&site=ROCKLER
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10610&site=ROCKLER

Just drill and tap the hard board to take on a 1/4-20 set screw.

Then when you are done with your router table you can make some cribbage boards to sale or give to some mates..

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jbrukardt said:


> they dont have to be very strong, theyre just gentle stop points.
> 
> Cant quite picture the "cribbage board setup" Just a rail with a bunch of holes in it?
> 
> And yeah, i guess i can lock down a 1/4 inch nut with a set screw that would keep the "board" level with the track. Just have to find a set screw of the right size


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## pal (Feb 13, 2008)

How about small brackets such as from barrel bolt screwed to the back of you fence your small pin could then just be left in there and when you wanted to move the fence just lift the pin and slide the fence.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

JB, how about this. I'm a machine shop mechanic, and I've seen something like this done in a milling machine t-slots. Most metal cutting milling machines, have similar looking t-slots in their work table. I seen one shops set up where they locked down a t-bolt, using a large set-screw where you would usually have a t-bolt, at the end of the table (t-track). Then, they machined precision bars that fit in, but came above the t-slot. Where one end would hit the screwed down t-bolt, and the other end came up high enough out of the t-slot, to hit the plate they wanted to machine. Their plate, being your fence. You would make yourself a series of pairs of these bars, to the different lengths that you want your fence to stop at. They just sit in the slot, sandwiched between the dead t-nut, and your fence. Put, say a 4" long set of bars in there for one setup. Then take those out and put a longer set in, to move the fence forward. Make yourself a nice box to keep your sets of bars in, or put a whole in the ends of them and hang'em on a wall. Mark each one with the length that they set your fence at. 

Dang, I think I just talked myself into making a setup like that myself!! Thanks!! LOL


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## jbrukardt (May 1, 2012)

N'awlins77 said:


> JB, how about this. I'm a machine shop mechanic, and I've seen something like this done in a milling machine t-slots. Most metal cutting milling machines, have similar looking t-slots in their work table. I seen one shops set up where they locked down a t-bolt, using a large set-screw where you would usually have a t-bolt, at the end of the table (t-track). Then, they machined precision bars that fit in, but came above the t-slot. Where one end would hit the screwed down t-bolt, and the other end came up high enough out of the t-slot, to hit the plate they wanted to machine. Their plate, being your fence. You would make yourself a series of pairs of these bars, to the different lengths that you want your fence to stop at. They just sit in the slot, sandwiched between the dead t-nut, and your fence. Put, say a 4" long set of bars in there for one setup. Then take those out and put a longer set in, to move the fence forward. Make yourself a nice box to keep your sets of bars in, or put a whole in the ends of them and hang'em on a wall. Mark each one with the length that they set your fence at.
> 
> Dang, I think I just talked myself into making a setup like that myself!! Thanks!! LOL


I like it  Easily achieved, precise, quickly interchangeable.

Hmm, now to find a good material to make them out of. Im thinking those plastic miter slot fillers, but they wont be quite tall enough.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You could make a solid stop at the farthest point and use a series of set up blocks to give you every position closer to the bit.


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## chowbird (Jun 29, 2010)

I have a similar issue and what I did was make myself a bunch of precise spacers (mostly out of birch ply) - then labelled them with a big fat red marker. I keep them in a separate drawer in a roll around cabinet so I don't lose 'em. I'm even considering putting them all on some sort of big key ring - so I don't lose 'em.
As for stops - use t-track. Slap down your spacer - set the stop - away you go.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck took the words out of my mouth. Simply attach a3/4" square board at the back edge of your table and then make a series of boards each a little wider. Say that your first stop should be 8" behind your fence. You make a board 8" wide and lay it on the table. The back board would stop it from falling off the table when you pushed the fence up to it. Need a 6" space no problem just replace the 8" board with a 6" one.


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## thammons (Mar 26, 2012)

maybe hardwood bars tall (thick) enough to stick up out of the t-slot? sort of like the precision length brass bars from Rockler? I've made some jig elements out of left over Ipe deck planks -- very hard wood and tough, but not difficult to cut to a precise size, I think
th


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## Steve B. (Mar 4, 2012)

J - first of all, no laughing at the artwork. This might do it for you. Mount the pegs on the side so they are out of the way. Make the L bracket made out of wood with a hole to slide over the pegs. Put a T nut with a locking knob to cinch it down tight in the T track, and voila! You can store the L bracket on the peg that is furthest to the back and out of the way. Before you drill holes in your table you might want to test for accuracy first by mounting the pegs in a pieces of scrap and clamping them to the sides of the table. You could also use the scrap as a template for drilling the real holes once you located where you want them.
Steve from California


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## Leifs1 (Dec 16, 2009)

Why not make it simple maybe as in attached drawing. You could make the stop at the end of table some sort of sliding stop to lower it below surface when not in use. then you just have one board to keep track off.

regards Leif


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## jbrukardt (May 1, 2012)

So many good ideas here. Thank you everyone

Some of the "common" distances are less than half an inch from eachother, so that may present some challenge, but not too much i dont think. 

I think ill go with the precisely sized bars with a stop at the back approach. Seems easiest to do, those are big enough i wont lose them, and theyre easily swapped

I'll look into the notched bar too, thats even better, might only have to have one bar


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## jbrukardt (May 1, 2012)

bought some UHMW to make the bars out of


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## stanzee (Dec 9, 2010)

I agree with the string idea. Just like the pen on a chain at your local bank.


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