# Is this tenoning jig any good?



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

I've haven't done much tenoning work but would like to on this next project.

$50.00 doesn't sound like to much to ask and since the ad is 30 days old so the jig is probably gone
but if not, is a jig like this any good?

https://kansascity.craigslist.org/tls/d/tenoning-jig/6323895705.html


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

that's new price...
everybody I know that has one of them hardly ever uses it, if at all - me included... too cumbersome...
use a dado blade and flat cut for simplicity and ease... fit w/ a shoulder plane...
or your router table for a plan ''B''...
get you a dado blade... the Freuds are hard to beat for quality and value... and one would have come in handy for your pantry standards...


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I have a Delta, and I've noticed they're all about the same. It took me awhile to figure it out. I really don't use it much so if you can get it used, I'd go for it. You might want to get a shoulder plane since it would be a near miracle to get a perfect thickness tennon on the saw. I got a cheapo on Amazon and spent a lot of time tuning it up and sharpening so it really works well. Take light cuts on the tennon, and if it's centered, do both sides equally until it fits.


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> that's new price...
> everybody I know that has one of them hardly ever uses it, if at all - me included... too cumbersome...
> use a dado blade and flat cut for simplicity and ease... fit w/ a shoulder plane...
> or your router table for a plan ''B''...
> get you a dado blade... the Freuds are hard to beat for quality and value... and one would have come in handy for your pantry standards...


Stick, you have such subtle tender tactful way about you. I'll get me a Freud dado.


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Bryan, I had a similar Delta years ago and only used it a few times. I wasn't fond of it and went back to the dado and router table method Stick suggests. You will be surprised at how often you will go to the dado blades once you get them, they are a little spendy, but you will find all kinds of uses for them, I sure do.

Herb


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> Stick, you have such subtle tender tactful way about you.


agreed..
wind me up for the flip side... it's amusing...


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Hey, I just Amazon ordered the Freud 8" dado set, just the $91.00 version and not the more expensive set.
I know it'll be nice to have, I've wanted one for a while now. I do have their box joint set and am real happy with it.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Dado sets are handy for lots of jobs. I have the Delta version of that jig and I use it a fair bit. It is cumbersome and a pain to adjust to an accurate setting but they do a good job. I paid $130 for mine.


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> I have a Delta, and I've noticed they're all about the same. It took me awhile to figure it out. I really don't use it much so if you can get it used, I'd go for it. You might want to get a shoulder plane since it would be a near miracle to get a perfect thickness tennon on the saw. I got a cheapo on Amazon and spent a lot of time tuning it up and sharpening so it really works well. Take light cuts on the tennon, and if it's centered, do both sides equally until it fits.



Well Tom, I was afraid it wouldn't be used much. I hadn't heard about the shoulder plane and will order on when I start actively making tennons. Maybe later with this project.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> Well Tom, I was afraid it wouldn't be used much. I hadn't heard about the shoulder plane and will order on when I start actively making tenons. Maybe later with this project.


I have the same one as Chuck...
a quality miter gauge and a dado blade is very fast, clean accurate and simple...
as for the shoulder plane.. the Stanley Sweetheart series (92) are the absolute pits not to mention a pain to use...
so this leaves a lot of other ones to be considered..


----------



## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Why not make you own jig? Incremental Tools sells their jig and fixture components and will supply the instructions to make your own tenoning jig. The advantage is that it uses a standard rip blade - make the face cuts with the part flat on the saw table and then clamp to the fixture to make the cheek cuts.

INCRA TOOLS :: Jig & Fixture Components :: Build-It System :: INCRA Free Jig Plans - 006

Or you can go more basic yet


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> I have the same one as Chuck...
> a quality miter gauge and a dado blade is very fast, clean accurate and simple...
> as for the shoulder plane.. the Stanley Sweetheart series (92) are the absolute pits not to mention a pain to use...
> so this leaves a lot of other ones to be considered..


I'll ask for help when I get there.

I have a pretty small, and old, plane that was my father-in-law's but whenever I've tried to use it - it was the pits. I don't know how to set it up so I never developed and interest. I can see where if you had a decent one and knew how to use it, it could be pretty handy. I'm not there yet.


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

tomp913 said:


> Why not make you own jig? Incremental Tools sells their jig and fixture components and will supply the instructions to make your own tenoning jig. The advantage is that it uses a standard rip blade - make the face cuts with the part flat on the saw table and then clamp to the fixture to make the cheek cuts.
> 
> INCRA TOOLS :: Jig & Fixture Components :: Build-It System :: INCRA Free Jig Plans - 006
> 
> ...


Thanks Tom, that was good video. I believe I can make my own jig now.


----------



## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

First you probably need to make a dado insert for your table saw. You will need it with your new dado blade. I use plywood for my Unisaw to make a dado insert. While you are at it you may want to make zero insert for your saw blade.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> I'll ask for help when I get there.
> 
> I have a pretty small, and old, plane that was my father-in-law's but whenever I've tried to use it - it was the pits. I don't know how to set it up so I never developed and interest. I can see where if you had a decent one and knew how to use it, it could be pretty handy. I'm not there yet.


is it an old shoulder plane???

.


----------



## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Stick486 said:


> is it an old shoulder plane???
> 
> .


A lot of planes don't cut to the edge like a block plane.

Stick, how would a rabbit plane compare to a shoulder plane? I was thinking about using it for trimming a tenon.


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

coxhaus said:


> A lot of planes don't cut to the edge like a block plane.
> 
> Stick, how would a rabbit plane compare to a shoulder plane? I was thinking about using it for trimming a tenon.


A shoulder plane would be ALOT easier on the knuckles! When it comes to tenons, this is were the shoulder plane shines.


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

bryansong said:


> I've haven't done much tenoning work but would like to on this next project.
> 
> $50.00 doesn't sound like to much to ask and since the ad is 30 days old so the jig is probably gone
> but if not, is a jig like this any good?
> ...


Honestly IMHO its not a bad jig at all...and barring any other options not a bad choice. As mentioned, very fussy to set up but once you get the hang of it..that dog will hunt...

But ya done good going with the stacked dado option...for a couple extra dollars, you'll get way more bang for you buck...


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

shoulder planes come in different widths to fit inside of dadoes and grooves...
rabbet planes are wider as where width really isn't an issue because a rabbet is open on one edge... 
as for using a rabbet plane to trim/clean a tenon... why not??? 
also the irons on a rabbet plane can be set as skewed and at lower angles than a shoulder plane is....
the right size shoulder plane will handle dadoes, grooves and rabbets...
the rabbet plane does... well... rabbets...

As for the block planes.. I can't recall ever seeing a block plane's iron flush w/ the outside edge of the body...
you need the iron to the side of the body to cut/trim clean inside corners so you don't leave a shoulder..
you could clean/trim rabbets and tenons w an LA block plane but you'd need to finish up by hand w/ a sharp chisel..


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> is it an old shoulder plane???
> 
> .


I don't think so, I don't really know planes but it might be a block plane. It a Stanley 9 1/4 that looks like this.


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Lie Nielsen makes a skewed block w/nicker (left and right) and a rabbet block w/nicker. 

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/block-planes/skew-block-plane-left?node=4072

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/block-planes/rabbet-block-plane-w-nicker?node=4072

both will work ok, but the shoulder is much faster and easier to control for this kinda application


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> I don't think so, I don't really know planes but it might be a block plane. It a Stanley 9 1/4 that looks like this.


that is a block plane...


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Lie Nielsen makes a skewed block w/nicker (left and right) and a rabbet block w/nicker.
> 
> https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/block-planes/skew-block-plane-left?node=4072
> 
> ...


I would see those a rabbet planes or panel planes...


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> I have a pretty small, and old, plane that was my father-in-law's but whenever I've tried to use it - it was the pits. I don't know how to set it up so I never developed and interest. .


see if either of these will help...

.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Later on I plan on cutting canes to whatever length a buyer wants. This will be away from the shop and power tools. Have a really nice older hand power Craftsman miter saw for the shortening. I want to be able to put a tenon on the end of each cane, to slip a rubber tip on easily. So for that am designing a tenon cutter (might need two, each slightly different), something along the lines of this. Shop Tips & Tricks #12: Making Long, Round Things in Wood - with the Norwegian Dowel Cutter - by GnarlyErik @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

Nothing beats modern technology for woodworking. :grin:


----------



## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Bryan, Yes! I have the delta version and it makes bridle joints with ease...up to 3" on my 10" table saw. It is a very accurate way to cut bridle joints dead parallel on the ends of boards with repeatability! when you need it you will be glad you have it.


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> see if either of these will help...
> 
> .


Very helpful, thank you.

I saved and printed those out


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

JOAT said:


> Later on I plan on cutting canes to whatever length a buyer wants. This will be away from the shop and power tools. Have a really nice older hand power Craftsman miter saw for the shortening. I want to be able to put a tenon on the end of each cane, to slip a rubber tip on easily. So for that am designing a tenon cutter (might need two, each slightly different), something along the lines of this. Shop Tips & Tricks #12: Making Long, Round Things in Wood - with the Norwegian Dowel Cutter - by GnarlyErik @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community
> 
> Nothing beats modern technology for woodworking. :grin:



Theo,

I don't know what to say on that one, that's really something. You're right, nothing does beat modern technology, where there's a will there's a way.


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Bryan, Yes! I have the delta version and it makes bridle joints with ease...up to 3" on my 10" table saw. It is a very accurate way to cut bridle joints dead parallel on the ends of boards with repeatability! when you need it you will be glad you have it.


Gary,

Wow, I just watched a video of making bridle joints from Stumpy Nubs, I've got to make a jig for making those joints or get one of those tennoning jigs. Those are great joints!

Thanks for chiming in.

Bryan


----------



## Danman1957 (Mar 14, 2009)

Bryan,
As others stated I have the Delta version and don't use it daily, but I do use it and enjoy it. I also have the Freud dado blades and use them often. They both cost about $130/140ea. but I'm glad to have both. The set up time is not that bad once you get used to it. Mostly set up for 3/4 material so tenon are usually the same or similar.


----------



## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Bryan, that looks like the one BusyBee sells new for $99 Canadian, so it's not great deal. I guess there's little to go wrong with them though.


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

TenGees said:


> Bryan, that looks like the one BusyBee sells new for $99 Canadian, so it's not great deal. I guess there's little to go wrong with them though.



Paul,

Yesterday I did reply to the ad but got no reply back. Being the ad was posted 30 days ago I figured the owner just neglected to remove the ad. Anyway, I'll figure something else out. Not sure what I want to do yet, I see there are a lot of home built ones out there so I might just make my own.


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Danman1957 said:


> Bryan,
> As others stated I have the Delta version and don't use it daily, but I do use it and enjoy it. I also have the Freud dado blades and use them often. They both cost about $130/140ea. but I'm glad to have both. The set up time is not that bad once you get used to it. Mostly set up for 3/4 material so tenon are usually the same or similar.


Dan, thanks for the endorsement of the jig, it's nice to know they work if I should I decide to go that direction.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

bryansong said:


> Theo,
> 
> I don't know what to say on that one, that's really something. You're right, nothing does beat modern technology, where there's a will there's a way.


Eh, what can I say? I could buy a tenon cutter, and use an electric drill, or make a crosswise handle for it; that is IF I could find one that would do what I want, which is not likely, because I've already looked. This will answer my needs, won't cost anything but time, and will be enjoyable to make to boot. Shucks, it works as well as I think it will, may even make one that will use drill power, for the shop. Oh yes, mine will not look like the picture on the link.


----------



## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Brian you might check eBay for a tenon jig. I bought a Delta a couple years ago fairly cheap. But if you are going to just cut tenons use a dado blade.


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

*Update*

I did eventually receive a reply from the seller and ended up buying it for $40.00. It was in good shape and the gentleman had used it on one project but after that he had to give up his shop.
I think it is a nice piece and I'll eventually (that word again) experiment with using it.

Thanks for your input.

Bryan


----------



## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Bryan, I used mine twice this week to put mortices on the ends of wheel segments for making a wooden wagon wheel. Each wheel segment was 5" and cut at 22-1/2 degrees, 16 mortices for each wheel. Very accurate.


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Bryan, I used mine twice this week to put mortices on the ends of wheel segments for making a wooden wagon wheel. Each wheel segment was 5" and cut at 22-1/2 degrees, 16 mortices for each wheel. Very accurate.



Gary, that's sounds pretty involved. I'm encouraged.
I did get the manual but I just haven't taken the time to read it.

Thanks, nice to read it's very accurate.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

They are very good for repetitive work but you have to know one thing, and that applies to just using your fence and a dado set too. It will make pass after pass and make identical cuts on one side. However, when you do the opposite side, if all the boards aren't precisely the same thickness, then you will get a variety of thicknesses for your tenon. This is because you are registering the piece against 2 faces instead of the same face.

There is a way around it with the jig. I typically just use a standard blade and make the vertical cut first and then use my fence and cut the shoulders of the tenon with the board flat on the saw. If you are using a full 1/8" kerf blade and let's say you want a 1/2" thick tenon then instead of turning the board around for the second pass place a 5/8" shim behind the same face, between the board and the jig. That will give you a perfect 1/2" tenon on every piece regardless of thickness variations.


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> They are very good for repetitive work but you have to know one thing, and that applies to just using your fence and a dado set too. It will make pass after pass and make identical cuts on one side. However, when you do the opposite side, if all the boards aren't precisely the same thickness, then you will get a variety of thicknesses for your tenon. This is because you are registering the piece against 2 faces instead of the same face.
> 
> There is a way around it with the jig. I typically just use a standard blade and make the vertical cut first and then use my fence and cut the shoulders of the tenon with the board flat on the saw. If you are using a full 1/8" kerf blade and let's say you want a 1/2" thick tenon then instead of turning the board around for the second pass place a 5/8" shim behind the same face, between the board and the jig. That will give you a perfect 1/2" tenon on every piece regardless of thickness variations.


Charles, I'm glad you pointed that out to me, I hadn't thought of that. Now, whenever I do get to trying it out I'm going to have to come back to you for consultation. It's all about the registration. I still don't really understand, I think I need to make some test pieces. Thanks!


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I agree, trying it will highlight the problem, especially if you use 2 pieces that you know aren't the same.

Just the same here is more on it: Let's say that you want a 1/2" thick tenon on a 1.5" thick board. So you set that jig so that the saw is slicing into your work 1/2" (3/8" plus a 1/8" saw cut). If the board is exactly 1.5" thick then flipping it around and doing the same operation will give you that 1/2" thick tenon. But let's say that the next board is 1 9/16" thick. The same two cuts (1/2" total including saw cuts each) will leave a tenon that is 9/16" thick instead of 1/2" thick.

By using a shim you stay registered on the same face so piece thickness isn't a factor. The shim thickness has to be the thickness of the tenon you want PLUS the thickness of the saw blade. The reason for adding the thickness of the blade is that on one cut you are cutting from the inside of the blade and with the shim added you are cutting from the outside of the blade (or vice versa).


----------



## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

Now if you just won the lottery:

Powermatic Tennoning Jig PM-TJ -- PM-TJ Tenoning Jig


----------



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Charles, 

That does make sense. By doing the test pieces I know will help but your explanation did make a lot of sense to me. I had watch just on video on this so far and that guy did flip the board around to make the second cut. I can see where that won't always work and reading earlier that I should have a shoulder plane to trim would be needed. Maybe have to buy one but wow, those things are pretty expensive. I'm hoping I can learn how to make precise cuts with this jig. I'll enjoy working on this project.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Check out the Wood River V3 shoulder planes. The cheaper ones often have a problem in that the blade is either slightly too wide or worse, narrower than the width of the plane. If you get a plane with a narrower iron, Reture It. It is a problem that can't be fixed and will frustrate you. Sometimes you can find good planes used, but this is a real precision issue. In my post on the Woodsmith Shop videos, there is a really good presentation on shoulder planes, and even how to fix a tennon that's too narrow. They also show how to cut the mortise (which you do first). Anyway, glad you got what you need.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Bryan if you use the saw fence and miter gauge to cut the shoulders they should come out even enough that you shouldn't need a shoulder plane. I've never needed one doing it that way.


----------



## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

Cheape$t and quickest shop-fabricated table saw tenoning jig.

All the fabricator needs is: 2 pieces of 3/4"ply, cut 8"x18", a 24" long piece of 1x3", and a toggle clamp. 

Some users forgo the toggle clamp and uses a C-clamp

https://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-plans/tablesaw/shop-made-tablesaw-tenoning-jig/


----------

