# wipe on urethane



## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

Looking for suggestions, or ideas.

Using wipe on urethane on red oak, (gloss finish (what she wanted)) and the finish is broken in the way that the urethane is so thin it just runs into the open grain of the red oak and it stays on top of the closed grain leaving a semi rough finish where the open grain is and a smooth finish where the closed grain is.

Do you think I should use some grain filler first? Or what. :help:

Thanks


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Danny,

A grain filler would help or you could use a very thin cut of dewaxed clear shellac as well.


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## Maurice (Sep 24, 2004)

Grain filler first will solve the problem, it really works.


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

Do you have a recomendation for a grain filler? Rockler by me only has one type and the guy say's it wil take 10 coats. :fie:

Thanks
Danny


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

How many coats of urethane have you applied? It will probably take at least three coats or more of the wipe on to do the job. I would suggest maybe four or five. The semi-rough you are feeling is probably the raised grain, so after the first coat has thoroughly dried you need to go over the entire piece with 0000 steel wool to get rid of the raised grain caused by the first coat. Make sure to clean the piece well to get rid of any of the wool particles left behind before going on to the second coat. Each successive coat should fill the grain more as you go.


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

curiousgeorge said:


> How many coats of urethane have you applied? It will probably take at least three coats or more of the wipe on to do the job. I would suggest maybe four or five. The semi-rough you are feeling is probably the raised grain, so after the first coat has thoroughly dried you need to go over the entire piece with 0000 steel wool to get rid of the raised grain caused by the first coat. Make sure to clean the piece well to get rid of any of the wool particles left behind before going on to the second coat. Each successive coat should fill the grain more as you go.


I put on 5 coats and the finish is still getting drawn in to the open grain, in the picture below (not actual project) the darker areas of the grain would still be rough (not filled in by the finish) the lighter areas would have a smooth finish. I've sanded after each coat with both 320 and 0000 steel wool, and either one makes no difference, the open grain is just drinking it up.









So far all I have done on the project is the face frame and frame doors, so this is a small area (about 2" wide) so it it not that noticeable. But I am getting to do the base unit and all the raised panel doors and I would like them to have a smooth finish accross the whole peice.

am I being too annual? it's just because of the gloss finish it shows up more.

Thanks
Danny


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Danny,
You are not being too anal. Take a look at this article ... Using Wood Grain Filler

I found this by doing a Google search on "grain filler" and there is a good list of places you might want to check out for your answer.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I have run into the same thing, so I am interested in what light will be shed on the problem. Thanks for posting your question.





jd99 said:


> Looking for suggestions, or ideas.
> 
> Using wipe on urethane on red oak, (gloss finish (what she wanted)) and the finish is broken in the way that the urethane is so thin it just runs into the open grain of the red oak and it stays on top of the closed grain leaving a semi rough finish where the open grain is and a smooth finish where the closed grain is.
> 
> ...


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Where is Jerry Mayfield when you need him? :big_boss:


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Don't use steel wool on oak. You may get a staining reaction.


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## awoodnut (May 2, 2009)

*steal wool*

You better read the product lable. I used a water based wipe on and it said specificly, not to use steal wool. I used a 400 grit sand paper and that worked fairly well.

Good luck.


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

I was beat to the punch. I was going to suggest you stay away from the steel wool, unless you use the S/S type. But, it cost so much, I use the 400 grit sand paper. HF sells the little soft sanding blocks in extra fine. they work pretty good. I use lots of red oak, still in high demand around here. Keep in mind that red oak is the only hardwood I know of that can be used as a soda straw. I use the wipe on ploy a lot, you need to add extra drying time between coats. The ploy that goes down in these pores need time to dry. This is especially true if you don't use the filler. I rarely use the high gloss, but with the semi-gloss, it takes about 5 coats, to get the finish I want. Be sure you aren’t putting on each coat too thick. 
Hope this helps.
Harry


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

awoodnut said:


> You better read the product lable. I used a water based wipe on and it said specificly, not to use steal wool. I used a 400 grit sand paper and that worked fairly well.
> 
> Good luck.


I should have mentioned this is oil based.
Thanks


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

Thanks for all the input. This site is great!

I think I am going to try the filler on some scrap peices before I start on the base, cabinet and doors, I already have the top sections done but they are just a frame and it looks ok, but I want to see a more consistant smooth finish on the cabinet doors as they are a larger surface. 

Always learning. :blink:

Thanks
Danny


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