# Carving bits



## qulevrius (Mar 18, 2019)

Tried router carving today, for the 1st time. Used a compact router with a V-groove bit on a paper template; it carves alright, but I spent thrice as long on cleaning up the grooves with a creatively shaped sandblock. Is there a dedicated bit for carving, barring CNC ?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

These are the only types I know of: https://freudtools.com/explore/router-cnc/edge-treatment/lettering


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Pictures would be a big help in trying to figure out what the problem might be.

It might also be the wood you used for the project. If it is softwood then you might get some tearing instead of cutting leaving a lot of cleanup. If it is in large open areas then the stepover could be the problem so you might need to use an end mill to clear the bottom of the cut.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

60º and 90º v-bits work well for sign making, I carved a lot of signs freehand before I got my CNC. As Mike says, it may the wood. The white mystery wood from the big box stores often has problems. Cedar fence boards carve easily and cleanly. Both of these signs were freehand carved from cedar using a v-bit in a Dewalt compact router. Perhaps you need a sharper bit?


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## qulevrius (Mar 18, 2019)

Gaffboat said:


> 60º and 90º v-bits work well for sign making, I carved a lot of signs freehand before I got my CNC. As Mike says, it may the wood. The white mystery wood from the big box stores often has problems. Cedar fence boards carve easily and cleanly. Both of these signs were freehand carved from cedar using a v-bit in a Dewalt compact router. Perhaps you need a sharper bit?



It’s not the tearout, more like an inability to produce a clear, flat bottom carving. Had to take multiple passes and then chisel and sand the edges and the groove itself to make it look somewhat satisfactory. It’s also not the bit, because that’s the 1st time I used it. Tried it on pine, will post pics later.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Too high a moisture content in the wood could cause a poor finish. Wet wood tends to be a bit stringy.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

qulevrius said:


> It’s not the tearout, more like an inability to produce a clear, flat bottom carving. Had to take multiple passes and then chisel and sand the edges and the groove itself to make it look somewhat satisfactory. It’s also not the bit, because that’s the 1st time I used it. Tried it on pine, will post pics later.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


From that, I would say you are having problems because of the small stepover you need to clear the bottom of the pockets. They do make V-bits with flat bottoms that would help you get a cleaner cut at the bottom of the pocket like these 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QPYCP4...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W681QK...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P4O9N...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Oliver I believe the white mystery wood from the big box stores is Aspen. I use it for some of my Dogwood Crosses to get the pure white color and it takes a lot more sanding than anything else I use.


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## qulevrius (Mar 18, 2019)

Here’s the picture:










This is after some rigorous sanding and trying to straighten out the carved letter.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Looks like you had a little bit of tear out in a couple of places. Of course, we don't know what the bottom looked like before it was cleaned up but a flat tip v-bit will help a lot.


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## qulevrius (Mar 18, 2019)

MEBCWD said:


> Looks like you had a little bit of tear out in a couple of places. Of course, we don't know what the bottom looked like before it was cleaned up but a flat tip v-bit will help a lot.



I might just try that, thanks !


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The wood appears to be pine which should rout okay in most cases. Part of the problem may be that you aren't able to hold the router steady enough. I found that when routing signs hand held that anchoring one hand down on the material and swinging the router into the cut with the other worked best for me. Since I'm right handed, anchoring my left hand works better. Basically I just swivel my wrist on that hand. I don't get much range of movement but I'm able to maintain better control than trying to swing the router around with both hands.


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## qulevrius (Mar 18, 2019)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> The wood appears to be pine which should rout okay in most cases. Part of the problem may be that you aren't able to hold the router steady enough. I found that when routing signs hand held that anchoring one hand down on the material and swinging the router into the cut with the other worked best for me. Since I'm right handed, anchoring my left hand works better. Basically I just swivel my wrist on that hand. I don't get much range of movement but I'm able to maintain better control than trying to swing the router around with both hands.



I clamp the workpiece down before working on it. Maybe it’s the router itself, mine doesn’t have an LED.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

qulevrius said:


> Tried router carving today, for the 1st time. Used a compact router with a V-groove bit on a paper template; it carves alright, but I spent thrice as long on cleaning up the grooves with a creatively shaped sandblock. Is there a dedicated bit for carving, barring CNC ?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Take a look a these bits. Sold specifically for sign carving. 
Sign carving bitshttp://https://www.makeawoodsign.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=4


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

qulevrius said:


> I clamp the workpiece down before working on it. Maybe it’s the router itself, mine doesn’t have an LED.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's not the sign moving on you I was referring to but the router dancing around during the cut. Even a small router is hard to hold onto when it catches grain. Being able to see what the bit is cutting is important. You need good light. And unless you are cutting one pass then leave a small amount of wood on the first pass and make a finish cut. The router is easier to control if it's only taking off a sliver.


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## qulevrius (Mar 18, 2019)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> It's not the sign moving on you I was referring to but the router dancing around during the cut. Even a small router is hard to hold onto when it catches grain. Being able to see what the bit is cutting is important. You need good light. And unless you are cutting one pass then leave a small amount of wood on the first pass and make a finish cut. The router is easier to control if it's only taking off a sliver.



Ah, gotcha. That’s how I was trying to do it, with both hands on the router. I think I just need way more light on the cut. Will definitely heed your advice on the shallower cuts.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I have to use Templates,I couldn't route a letter without them.
@Gene Howe 
Sign carving bitshttp://https://www.makeawoodsign.com...ategory&path=4

Nice sidewalk, don't find any bits though.
Herb


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@OutoftheWoodwork Has Barb checked in on this string yet? She does some very nice freehand signs and is pretty darn practical. I haven't made signs, but I think holding on to a router itself is not a good idea, so I'd want to use a plunge base at least. Barb also prints out a computer image of the sign and uses some kind of oil to transfer that to the wood.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Herb, try this one. Guess it's a C @ P job. I cant get the thingie for posting links to work.
https://www.makeawoodsign.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=4

Oops...seemed to work, this time.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Gene Howe said:


> Herb, try this one. Guess it's a C @ P job. I cant get the thingie for posting links to work.
> https://www.makeawoodsign.com/shop/index.php?route=product/category&path=4
> 
> Oops...seemed to work, this time.


Thats better,Gene,thanks. I see my 15° bit I use on the pantograph listed there.
Herb


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

Did I hear someone whisper my name? Looks like a few have taken care of the answer, but:

I originally started making my lettering flat, but went to the 60 and 90 degree "V" bit, and clean out the letters if necessary. Your picture looks like you wanted a bit of an angle, but wanted a flat bottom letter. When you want flat bit lettering, you can use flute bits. You can get them as small at 1/4 or 1/8" diameter. I can upload a picture of what I've used, if needed. You can use the "V" bit to get a nice angle then clean out the lettering with a flute bit to accomplish the flat bottom.

To be able to keep the router steady, you'll need good, sharp bits. It will be like a hot knife through butter. This is especially important if the grain is real close together, as a dull bit will make it harder to keep straight lines, which is what it looks like happened in your picture.

Also, I don't clamp my wood down. Looking at the second picture, you'll see what I use, which is kitchen drawer liner. I get the thicker kind, which when it gets full of sawdust, I've vacuumed it off, which recharges its' hold, or I've shaken off the big stuff, and did a quick dunk in soapy water, rinsed it, and hung it to dry, and it's like new again. My set up may be in one of my pictures of my shop.

Below are some of my earlier works: All free hand, with a full size router. I eventually went to a compact, because it's easier to lift. I've also used CNC bits to get the effect I'm looking for.

...And on that note, I'll crawl back in my hole. Hope everyone is well.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

A base plate like this one from MakeAWoodsign.com can make a big difference in helping you control the router for freehand sign carving. I also recommend spending time watching their sign making videos on YouTube. You'll learn a lot about carving signs in a short amount of time.


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