# Using router for edge joining



## masonsailor (Sep 20, 2013)

Hello all. I am setting up a new shop and have decided against a long bed jointer due to space limitations and the fact I hate changing knives. But I do need to be able to jointer some 5-6 foot long pieces of 4/4 and 8/4 teak. I am proposing to make a long bed edge jointer and am interested in opinions. I am going to mount a 3 hp PC router horizontally on the side of an 8 ft long workbench. The jointer table will be a 3 inch thick piece of Baltic birch ply laminated up from 3/4 ply which will be 72 inches long by about 12 inches wide mounted vertically on the side of the bench. After creating a perfectly straight edge I plan to make a cut half way down the bed about 1/16 inch deep essentially giving me a fixed in feed table at a cutting depth of 1\16 inch. This will give me only 1/16 on each pass but should work. I will use a straight bit which will be easily replaced when dulled. I should be able to adjust the table to the router bit by putting a pivot at one end and an adjustable set of bolts at the other end of the table. I will need to attach a more durable and slicker surface to the table to make it work well. Probably start with melamine as a trial and then progress to something harder if it all works. Has anybody tried this before and does anybody see a flaw in the concept ? Paul


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Paul, your post seems contradictory?

"have decided against a long bed jointer due to space limitations......I am proposing to make a long bed edge jointer?".

A router type jointer, IMO, is only good for the board edge due to the maximum length of cutter that you will be able to use.

A "proper" jointer will clean boards 6" or 8" wide...


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

How do imagine creating a "flat" of that length at cost that is less than a serviceable jointer / planner? Are you really willing to take the chance when working with Teak? Like James, if you have room for your device then how is it that you do not have room for the smaller jointer. Long horizontal runs are very difficult for manufacturers and almost impossible for the individual.

If you go forward with your plan I wish you luck - Baker


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## Dr Neon (Apr 15, 2010)

Hi Paul. When I built my 21" X 35" router table I incorporated a two piece fence. Rockler sells shim pack inexpensively. I added a 2" long X 1/2" (shank and bit) straight bit. Whenever I need to joint anything up to 2" I just preset the moveable fence half with the required shims, and go to work. It works very well, and does not add to the space required for the router table. Tim


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Paul-
As described, that will not work out for you. You were describing trying to build a jointer table out of a horizontal wood table. But you are confused on how to make that work.

Physics in that, even though rudimentary, is that you would use a horizontal cutter head at the stepped tables that you can adjust it to the height of the outfeed table. 

I've seen plans for Self-built jointers with wooden frames on Woodworking for engineers. But it just can't work like you described. It just can't work with a table like you described and use a router as you described. It just doesn't work that way.

What you described in the second half of your post was using a router as the cutter. You can joint with a router table, with a jointer fence and a straight bit... but the physics of that is that the work is lying on a flat table with the router perpendicular to that surface, using a bit perpendicular to the surface... with a stepped fence with it's surface perpendicular to the table surface. Then you adjust the stepped outfeed side of the fence to the cutting surface of the bit... to do edge jointing of normally up to 2" thick. Why 2"? Because that is the normal longest length of the cutting surface of a straight bit. (Jointing on a shaper is done the same way.) 

So, a router table won't work for you, as you are describing the intended purpose would be for true 4" by 4" teak, twice the limit of jointing on a router table. Material at that width would also be a stretch trying to joint on a shaper...

As described, your need seems to be for a flatbed jointer... Maybe you should research how things work, how you can do things, what your needs and reconsider what you may need to make that possible. Feel free to ask questions.

As presently described, I would think your investment in space savings, resources, time and money would be better with a bench planer and fabricate adjustable infeed and outfeed tables. You are saying you don't have the space to dedicate to a free-standing jointer... But you say you have the need for a jointer 4" or wider.

But then again... are you sure you really "need" to purchase a jointer? What would you be making with that 4"x4" teak? Do you have other projects planned than just one? I figure that if I make a big purchase on a tool... Eventually it needs to pay for or substantiate it's own existence in my shop.

Sometimes I have to answer to my Sharon, like last night her asking why I have spendy dovetail jigs? What were they needed for? Have they paid for themselves yet? What do I have planned to justify my purchasing them? Etc... (She knows I can cut handcut dovetails.) Darn when she does that... LOL.


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## phillip.c (Aug 9, 2012)

Sorry Paul, I'm on their side.

What size cutter would you plan to use in your router? To span more than a couple inches? That's asking for trouble.

Mike directed you to this link: Homemade jointer project

I highly suggest you examine those plans and see if you can make something similar work for your needs (perhaps a similar design with smaller tables?).


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## masonsailor (Sep 20, 2013)

Thanks to everyone for their input. Your concerns pretty much sum up my concerns. I have looked at the Grizzly 8 inch long bed joiner as an alternative. I had one in my previous shop for years and it served me well. I will probably go with a spiral cutterhead to alleviate my hatred of changing knives. As far as immediate projects I am remodeling the boat my wife and I live on. I am starting with the main salon and cockpit tables. Both will involve inlay of the boat name in the tabletop and are pretty interesting as far engineering goes. The cockpit table involves a telescopic base which is also made of teak. But that will be another subject on the projects forum. Thanks again ! Paul


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## masonsailor (Sep 20, 2013)

Thanks for all the input. I think they pretty much sum up my concerns as well. I have just spent the day deciding to buy a grizzly 8 inch long bed jointer. I had one in my previous shop for years and it served me well. I think I will try the spiral cutterhead to see if it is any easier to maintain. I really dread changing knives. As far as projects go I am remodeling our boat that my wife and I live on. Immediately I will be making new salon and cockpit tables which will involve inlaying the boat name in the table tops. The cockpit table will involve some interesting aspects as it will have to have a telescopic base which will also be teak. But that is a subject for the projects forum. Thanks again for all the input ! Paul


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