# Key Hole Hanger



## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

I have make some simple shelves and want to use a key hole router bit to cut some hanging slots to hang them
I would like to put them vertical on the back ...taller part. I'm not sure what the best way to do this would be.
Or should I put them horizontal on each end ?
Any suggestions for using the key hole router bit to cut hanger on the back of my shelves ?










Thanks


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

how wide of a piece do have to cut the keyhole slot in???...
what is the weight of your shelf???... size???...
a single horizontal cut is most forgiving for centering/balancing.leveling...


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

Two shelves are 14" wide/long
One is 30" long
All three are 6" deep.
They don't weight much...popular and maple
Going to set picture and small stuff on them
I would like to put a hanger slot on each end.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Remember that the slots have to be in the same orientation to work. You can’t go inward from each end. They’ll need to be deep enough to leave enough shoulder to support the load.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

If it was me I would go with a French cleat.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

MBurke said:


> Two shelves are 14" wide/long
> One is 30" long
> All three are 6" deep.
> They don't weight much...popular and maple
> ...


how thick??? what material are the shelves???
you trying to hang these shelves straight (blind/floating) to the wall like so...










if you are, a keyhole slot won't work for very long...
there is hardware just for the task at hand...


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

The backs are 3/4 x 2 x length
Popular

I want them floating but there not going to hole that much weight
I know they cant come in from both ends

Maybe I should look at some of these 

https://www.rockler.com/keyhole-fit...hJnkXXeF_UgBvSl3WJnBBnmDSVC1On0RoCThkQAvD_BwE


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

that's a better move...


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

OK

I could just screw them to the wall . No one will see the screws anyway.

Thanks for the help


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

those brackets go on shelf...
screw goes in the wall..


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

MBurke said:


> ...Maybe I should look at some of these
> 
> https://www.rockler.com/keyhole-fit...hJnkXXeF_UgBvSl3WJnBBnmDSVC1On0RoCThkQAvD_BwE


I have a large, heavy mirror that is very solid hanging from a pair of those. I would prefer those over keyhole slots for a shelf where leverage works against your mounting hardware.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I assume you're placing the supports into or over studs. I think a keyhole hanger over a stud is adequate, but if you're just placing it on drywall, it won't take much to pull the drywall anchors out of the wall. It's pretty easy to fix the wall, hope you kept a paint sample to patch if you move. I like the anchors that are threaded, they seem to hold better than the tap-in type. It will probably take a couple of tries to get the shelf mounted flush to the wall. Measure carefully, an error will be annoying to fix.

If you use the hardware version, you should cut a small mortise to mount the hanger so that the back piece fits flush against the wall, otherwise it's going to tilt forward a bit. Not good for fragile chachkas.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> I assume you're placing the supports into or over studs. I think a keyhole hanger over a stud is adequate, but if you're just placing it on drywall, it won't take much to pull the drywall anchors out of the wall.


3 or more togglers per shelf are the fix for that...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> 3 or more togglers per shelf are the fix for that...


I found it hard to get the toggle bolts connected in the right position to connect with the floating shelf. Took many, many tries. But they are strong.


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

Stick486 said:


> those brackets go on shelf...
> screw goes in the wall..



Yes I understand that...

I ment that I could just screw the shelves to the wall. Small head finish screw. That would be a lot easier to mount than the key hole metal mounts....

I am mounting them on a plaster/lath wall. I have had pretty good luck drilling a pilot hole in the plaster and using a screw...or finding the studs.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Drill your holes in the shelf first, then mark the wall through the holes. That should make lining up the wall holes foolproof. BTW, if you are going to paint or finish the shelves, you can fill the holes with Timber Mate filler, available on Amazon in colors to match your stock. It can be finished and becomes more or less invisible. It's an Aussie product and doesn't shrink. https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=timber+mate


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

drill the holes in either the wall or the shelf 1st...
transfer the location to the other surface w/ dowel points...


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

I'm with Theo. A French cleat. It could easily be cut from the existing back piece. Easier than trying to get a keyhole right and will allow the back to be flush to the wall.


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

Barry747 said:


> I'm with Theo. A French cleat. It could easily be cut from the existing back piece. Easier than trying to get a keyhole right and will allow the back to be flush to the wall.


How would I cut a french cleat from my existing back piece not that its together ?

Thanks


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

MBurke said:


> How would I cut a french cleat from my existing back piece not that its together ?
> 
> Thanks


¼'' Baltic birch plywood added to the back of the shelf


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

Mike, you could make two cuts on the table saw. I tried to sketch lines on your photo to show you the cuts. The lines give you an idea of the quality of my workmanship. Anyway, once cut, you would screw the bottom piece that was cut out onto the wall then hang the self over it and it would be supported along it's entire length. The opposite 45 degree cuts will snug the piece against the wall. I'd cut the 45 degree angle first followed by the vertical cut. If you screwed the cutout piece into studs, you could just about stand on the shelf before it would come down.


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## MBurke (Feb 4, 2016)

Barry747 said:


> Mike, you could make two cuts on the table saw. I tried to sketch lines on your photo to show you the cuts. The lines give you an idea of the quality of my workmanship. Anyway, once cut, you would screw the bottom piece that was cut out onto the wall then hang the self over it and it would be supported along it's entire length. The opposite 45 degree cuts will snug the piece against the wall. I'd cut the 45 degree angle first followed by the vertical cut. If you screwed the cutout piece into studs, you could just about stand on the shelf before it would come down.


Thanks Barry..good illustration....thanks for the suggestions.
Ill give that a try on a mock up shelve.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

JOAT said:


> If it was me I would go with a French cleat.


I agree, it reminds me of my FIRST forum question after a member in answer to a question of mine suggested a French cleat and I replied "what on earth is a French Cleat".
Routing a keyhole is straight forward but you must remember to move the router back to the starting point before withdrawing the bit! This wall mounted display cabinet is what raised that first question.


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## jaguar1201 (Feb 4, 2015)

Mike,
In response to your original question, use the keyhole mounting method in my opinion, preferably with a plunge router (but not required). I just mounted a 24" long walnut shelf to put my latest antique wood works clock on. I will include a photo to show you. My only advice is: center the mounting screw holes in the wall over studs (usually 16" spacing); use flat head screws; use a 3/8" keyhole bit; mark the back of the shelf with the location center-line of where the keyhole is to be made; restrict the router on three sides, so that it can only travel in the direction of the keyhole center-line, and up to the length that you wish to cut the keyhole. This keeps the router from wandering during the cut. Remember that the bit must be moved back to the starting entry point before withdrawing the bit. Another method that I have used is the make the entry hole first with a Fostner bit in a drill press to the depth that i will plunge with router bit, and set this as the plunge depth on the router.
RICK


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Here is another method:

https://www.banggood.com/10pcs-20x2...ture-Fittings-p-1056722.html?cur_warehouse=AU


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## blakeluby (Dec 22, 2018)

Good Machine


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## smitty10101 (Oct 15, 2004)

*Toyota commercial*



blakeluby said:


> Good Machine


The above link goes to a Toyota commercial (ad)

What does that have to do with shelf hanging??


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