# Fences



## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Anyone have some pictures and/or plans for a fence they like -or links to same?
The table is a small one 18x24.

Don't so much need lessons on theory -
I think I have a good handle on the concepts

split vs solid
t-groove vs clamps
importance of being able to offset the outfeed side
etc. etc .etc.
Just haven't come up with or seen a design that just jumps out at me.
I'm very visually oriented -- so I get more inspiration actually SEEING something than hearing about it.
Know what I mean?

Any help would be welcome.
If this has already been asked and answered elsewhere -- please forgive the duplication and just give me the link --

And yes -- if I see idea(s) that I like - I will likely steal them.

THANKS as always --


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

Click on my View Gallery, you will see about 8 diff. kinds, the one I like best is the T & G insert type with the swing away fence...it's quick and the safe way to use the router table...


Bj


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

THANKS BJ -
Humor an old man -- 
Your gallery is HUGE -- with many wonderful things to see --
Which page(s) would be best check for the fence examples?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

The easy way is to start with the last page and work your way up to the 1st...

They are all over the place, many snapshots of them 

Bj


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## seawolf21 (Jan 19, 2007)

*my fence*

Hi Cowboy. Here's a fence I made and serves me well.

Gary



http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/4000-homemade-split-router-fence.html?highlight=homemade+router+fence


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Gary - Thanks
Looks good - and I like inexpensive - that's what I am going for -
I'm missing you how you attach it to the table -- I see grooves on the table -- but nothing on the fence that would tighten down to them -- what am I missing?


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## seawolf21 (Jan 19, 2007)

*fence*



Drugstore Cowboy said:


> Gary - Thanks
> Looks good - and I like inexpensive - that's what I am going for -
> I'm missing you how you attach it to the table -- I see grooves on the table -- but nothing on the fence that would tighten down to them -- what am I missing?


 Cowboy, since I took this pic awhile ago, I have drilled two holes on each end and added t-tracks to the grooves. 
Gary


http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/table-mounted-routing/6273-router-table-fence-p6250143.jpg


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Cowboy

Here's a quick snapshot or two of some of the fences...

Bj


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

This is the first fence I built. I'm still happy with it.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Thanks guys -- being ablet to actually SEE something really helps the way my mind works.

BJ -
I'm intrigued with the idea of pinning one end of the fence and only having to worry about one lock down. Does sound like an easier way to make fine adjustments
Curious on how the details of doing the pinning.
I'm guessing just leaving the 'lock down knob' on that end loose enough to pivot on is not a good idea?I can see where that might tend to let the fence slip.
Also -- as you pivot -- the distance to your t-track on the other end changes -- 
How do you deal with that? A groove instead of a hole for the lock down on that end?

Mike -
I had seen other plans online showing the fence longer than the table - and locking down by clamping to the table instead of to a t-track.
I like the looks of that -- and I like the ide of having that much more fence to line up my stock on. I know you said you like that fence -- have you found any drawbacks?


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Here's some pics of the fence I made out of 3/4 MDF.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

George, it's difficult to tell for sure from the pics, but that looks like one BIG table. Is that one you made? Any drawbacks to haviing that large a table? I can see what the advantages will be, but just looking for some negatives. 

Brian


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hi Brian,
I did make the table. It's 24 x 48 and so far I have found no disadvantages. If you want to see more of the table go to:
www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/3982-router-table-fences.html


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Thanks George. Going to have to keep that in mind when I finally get around to making my table. My Craftsman is serving me well for the moment, but already proving to be a bit small. 

Just have to decide which fence design is better, yours with the sliding wings or extensions, or Bj's with the replaceable inserts in the center. That's the biggest problem with my fence, I have this HUGE cavity around the bit... gets interesting routing small pieces. Might make that an upgrade for my current table, until I can build a better one. Time will tell.

Brian


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

BrianS said:


> Just have to decide which fence design is better, yours with the sliding wings or extensions, or Bj's with the replaceable inserts in the center. That's the biggest problem with my fence, I have this HUGE cavity around the bit... gets interesting routing small pieces. Might make that an upgrade for my current table, until I can build a better one. Time will tell.
> 
> Brian


Brian... Bj fence design is a good one and sure makes it usefull for about any situation. You don't want to have that big hole for routing little pieces. Until you make a new fence... you might want to pick up one of the little OP fences as they are easy to clamp on and work real well for small bits. Or make one out of a 1x3 and clamp it on. I have my mini OP style table that I made and then I built the OP full sized set up using one of their tops and plates and the plans. It's about as big as I will ever need and allowed me to use the Incra set up on it. 

Corey


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

challagan said:


> Brian... Bj fence design is a good one and sure makes it usefull for about any situation. You don't want to have that big hole for routing little pieces. Until you make a new fence... you might want to pick up one of the little OP fences as they are easy to clamp on and work real well for small bits. Or make one out of a 1x3 and clamp it on. I have my mini OP style table that I made and then I built the OP full sized set up using one of their tops and plates and the plans. It's about as big as I will ever need and allowed me to use the Incra set up on it.
> 
> Corey


That's what I'm finding out with the one I've got now. It's a one piece plastic fence, which is fine, plastic is OK, but the big gap around the bit is frustrating. That, and the huge hole in the table that the bit sticks out of. Since it's a Craftsman table, I must go to Craftsman to get inserts for it. Ask my kids, I'm much too cheap to shop there.  This was a 2nd hand purchase from a friend of mine. I've got some MDF left over, might just try and fab a fence in the next week or so.

Brian


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

That was one of the things I liked least about my last table -
one of those cheap metal ones with the two plastic pieces serving as a fence.
Probably much like the one you described.
WAYY too much space between them.
After looking at both the sliding wings and the t/g system - I'm mulling around a combination of the two.

My big quandry now is the mounting -
Whether to use a straight t-track system - or the pivot - or clamping down to the table (with built-in clamps).


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Brian

Making the hole smaller is no big deal, just some plastic or some 1/4" thick MDF and bit of time and you have it done with...

the one below is the Oak-Park base plate with the BIG 3 1/8 " hole in..
But now it's 3 3/8" hole with a lip to hold the insert rings..

the rings are easy to make if you need any help just ask  


Bj 

===========



BrianS said:


> That's what I'm finding out with the one I've got now. It's a one piece plastic fence, which is fine, plastic is OK, but the big gap around the bit is frustrating. That, and the huge hole in the table that the bit sticks out of. Since it's a Craftsman table, I must go to Craftsman to get inserts for it. Ask my kids, I'm much too cheap to shop there.  This was a 2nd hand purchase from a friend of mine. I've got some MDF left over, might just try and fab a fence in the next week or so.
> 
> Brian


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Brian
> 
> Making the hole smaller is no big deal, just some plastic or some 1/4" thick MDF and bit of time and you have it done with...
> 
> ...


Oh, FINE then... I'm asking!!  

Never thought about putting a front on my existing fence.. a LOT easier then making a new one right now. I will, in time, just not now... I've got an insert plate already, just a matter of getting started on the table.

As for the inserts, fostner bit of the desired size followed by a hold saw? Just a quick guess. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Brian


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Brian

Well the hole saw 1st, then the fostner bit,,,

Almost all hole saws use a 1/4" drill bit to keep them true,,,,and they must be dead on the O.D. because you must press them in place becasue you don't want them to pop out when you have the router running...

The 1/4" hole is the key ,,,,I don't know if you have a big hole saw most don't but you can used a jig saw or a band saw to make them with and a small jig to sand them down to the right size...

the easy jig is below,,,, 


Once you have the outside right on, then drill the center out with the fostner bit But do make many sizes from 5/16" ID to 2 1/2" ID ..

The 1st one you will want to make is the lip ring that can be screw in place or glued in place, it will support the other press in insert rings...



Bj 










BrianS said:


> Oh, FINE then... I'm asking!!
> 
> Never thought about putting a front on my existing fence.. a LOT easier then making a new one right now. I will, in time, just not now... I've got an insert plate already, just a matter of getting started on the table.
> 
> ...


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Thanks Bj. I do have a hole saw, an old one, but it's hardly ever been used so still sharp. Now just have to check and see if I have the correct size. Could a circle cutter be used on this? I don't have one, but I've been thinking of buying one.. can't have too many tools.. 

Brian


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Brian

"Could a circle cutter be used on this?" = you bet, they are great but it must be used in a drill press.....and the stock must be clamped down....
they do have a small downfall ,they can only go down to 1 3/8" the norm.

The one I have and use is the one below ▼
H7538 Circle Cutter w/ Fine Adjustment
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h7538

I also have the two blade cutter type and they just don't work well 
very hard to get them set up true, it's a big deal when it comes to cutters if one is off by .005, double cut thing...one cutter once to pull if off center.


Bj 








BrianS said:


> Thanks Bj. I do have a hole saw, an old one, but it's hardly ever been used so still sharp. Now just have to check and see if I have the correct size. Could a circle cutter be used on this? I don't have one, but I've been thinking of buying one.. can't have too many tools..
> 
> Brian


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Hi Brian, regarding method of fitting fence to table, is there any reason why you can't fit tee nuts beneath the table, two, or even three rows, depending on the amount of front to back movement you require, then it's a very quick job to adjust. As for the hole around the cutter, as you can see, my fence has a large one but it's just a matter of clamping a piece of 1/8" MDF and drawing the fence over the cutter to give a zero clearance. Just a thought, bearing in mind the forums motto: KISS!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, I just love the slotting saw idea for decapitating boxes, do you slip shims in the sides as you go, to keep the box vertical?


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Since the topic has turned to inserts -
Let me throw out another alternative for those who might have a router but not a drill press -- or - who might just prefer the router.

I learned this system doing research for my new table.
I used a Jasper circle jig from Woodcraft -- but you can make your own


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

BTW --
Still looking for input on my original question -
Particularly now down to 2 things ---
- specifics on how best to set up the 'pivoting' fence
Particularly if I might want to move back and fort between that and straight T-Track
- Pros and cons of using designed in clamps to clamp to the table itself -

THANKS


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I rip two sides then put in shims into the two sides with just a bit of masking tape to hold them in place and then rip the other two ends,,, the shims are just a bit over size to press the parts apart but just a bit, on the last cut the lid will just be free and the masking tape is still holding the box as one part...

The blade I use is battery type saw that is 3 3/8" in dia. and will cut up to 
1 1/8" thick stock clean.
I made my own arbor but one can buy one from Grizzy at the right price..
The blades needs to be reamed out (.010) just a bit, because it has a METIC hole in it. 

G1438 Slitting Saw Arbor
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g1438



Bj 




harrysin said:


> Bj, I just love the slotting saw idea for decapitating boxes, do you slip shims in the sides as you go, to keep the box vertical?


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Brian
> 
> "Could a circle cutter be used on this?" = you bet, they are great but it must be used in a drill press.....and the stock must be clamped down....
> they do have a small downfall ,they can only go down to 1 3/8" the norm.
> ...



No problem, I do have a drill press. A small benchtop model, but it should be up to the task. The reason I was leaning towards the circle cutter, besides being cheap and wanting to purchase a tool that will have many uses, is that I felt the circle cutter could also cut the lip on the insert, as well as cut the insert out. Adjusted to the correct size, and then only cut thru partially, adjust again and then cut completly thru. Sounds good on paper anyway. 

Something else to put on the list of shop improvements. 

Brian


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Cowboy, that's a neat jig. I think Bobj uses one of those as well. worth the investment. It's on the list  

Corey


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

harrysin said:


> Hi Brian, regarding method of fitting fence to table, is there any reason why you can't fit tee nuts beneath the table, two, or even three rows, depending on the amount of front to back movement you require, then it's a very quick job to adjust. As for the hole around the cutter, as you can see, my fence has a large one but it's just a matter of clamping a piece of 1/8" MDF and drawing the fence over the cutter to give a zero clearance. Just a thought, bearing in mind the forums motto: KISS!


Harry, the current fence has a slot in one end, and the other has a slot in the table, so adjustment is pretty easy, from either end. And yes, clamping a piece of mdf to the face of the fence would solve the problem caused by the huge cavity in the fence. Think Bj suggested it ahead of you. 

I'm still cleaning out my garage/shop so that, and the inserts, will have to wait for a bit but I will get to it sooner or later. BTW, Mike says I can't send you any pics of my garage else I'll be put in detention by you. 

Brian


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'm going to look around next week for an arbour and blade, my arbours are #2Mt and my blades very fine toothed for metal. I'll be happy if I can get just the blade and make the arbour myself.
I've only made one box as an enclosure and I cut it on the band-saw but you're idea appeals to me. Not a day goes by that I don't learn something new.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

"'pivoting' fence" = I now use two of them on my router tables, they are great..

Here we go again with the gallery thing.. 

The fence needs a slot on one end thats running with the fence and one or two holes on the other end of the fence, the one on the left is the pivoting point and the one on the right is the lock down..Both lock the fence down.

I use a snap and lock on one table and knob screw type on the other table..both work well for this job..the snap lock pin you can get from Grizzly at about 8.oo bucks but it needs a nut in the fence to screw it to.
That's a bit trickey because the nut needs to be cut in two parts..so it will fit in the fence base... it's a 5/8-18 thread on the lock pin...the nut needs to be a max of 1/4" thick...

Once the fence has the slots and the tee nuts are in place on the bottom side to thread into,,,once you have that done all that's needed to change bits or put the router out of the table is unlock the one on the right and swing the fence back, once the new bit is in place ,swing it back in place and lock it down, quick and easy...
I did made a stop jig for one of the tables that will reset the fence right back to the same point as b/4 .. see snapshots for that one... 

NOTE**** I don't recommend the tee tracks unless they are on the front (front edge) side of the router table...  they are a pain to use, always in the wrong place.


Bj 




Drugstore Cowboy said:


> BTW --
> Still looking for input on my original question -
> Particularly now down to 2 things ---
> - specifics on how best to set up the 'pivoting' fence
> ...


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Drugstore Cowboy said:


> BTW --
> Still looking for input on my original question -
> Particularly now down to 2 things ---
> - specifics on how best to set up the 'pivoting' fence
> ...


Looks like your thread got hijacked Cowboy..

I use 2 clamps for the fence.. When I want to do a micro adjustment, I just loosen one of them.. Works pretty good..


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

AxlMyk said:


> Looks like your thread got hijacked Cowboy...


Tain't no big thang -
I've noticed that happens a LOT in here -- and I have been as guilty as anyone of chasing a tangent.

Actuallly - as long as the original poster still gets his/her question answered -- and no one gets offended if they try to get back on track - I think it can be a good thing -- more of a 'natural' flow of conversation.

I've been in other forums on other sites where the moderators must have been drill sergeants in a former life -- If you happened to post in what they considered the 'wrong' area -- or if you strayed an inch from the original topic you were made to feel like a wetnosed schoolkid coloring outside the lines.

But -- back to fences --- 
BJ - thanks 
I found some good shots of the front of your fence under your FACELIFT post - but I couldn't find any shots of the back showing how it was connected.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

Here's some snapshots that may help... 

The snap lock pin I got from sommerfeldtools.com, they used in on their old router table fences...

Plus how and where to mount the 
Daisy Pin Router
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/daisypin.html
see picture below

Just one more swing fence ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/5720-small-router-table-6740.jpg
They make it so easy to pull out the router to change the bit or set the bit height  then just drop it back in and your off and running again...as you can see the drop in base plates can be round....no need to have a template to cut the round hole unlike the router sq.base plate.. 
------------
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4883-small-router-table.html


Bj


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

BJ - 
Thanks - didnt mean to take a chunk out of your Saturday -- but that DOES make it a lot more clear. Appreciate it.

I like your -- 'presets' too.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

No big deal I'm in and of the shop all day long on Sat....and I pop on line just to cool off a bit,,,,the boss has got me playing with the trees today....things just keep getting bigger and bigger all the time..little trim around the ears today for them... 


Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry


COWBOY, sorry 
I'm going to high jack the post again 

HARRY

The one I made is for the deep spline jig, but it works for many other jobs on the router table.. 

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2482-deep-spline-slot-jigs.html


The blades I got from HD, but I did find them a bit cheaper on eBay, for about 12.oo bucks for a 6 pack if I recall that right.. and they are just as good as the higher price ones from Home Depot.... (18.oo bucks ea.at HD)

Plus the guy on eBay that I got them from is only 1 mile away from me, small world , right 

I also use the band saw BUT sometimes the box is just to big or it's just a bit to nasty to cut it true...that meat saw can get you in heart beat if it's open to the max.

Bj 


=================



harrysin said:


> I'm going to look around next week for an arbour and blade, my arbours are #2Mt and my blades very fine toothed for metal. I'll be happy if I can get just the blade and make the arbour myself.
> I've only made one box as an enclosure and I cut it on the band-saw but you're idea appeals to me. Not a day goes by that I don't learn something new.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> COWBOY, sorry
> I'm going to high jack the post again
> . . .


Not a problem -
I've gotten some good ideas from you and others -- 
just got to let em gel and decide what I want to do --
And I know what you mean about trees.
I have a 70 year old Pecan tree I have mentioned before that is pretty much pruning itself -- I just have to deal with the aftermath ---

Thursday a storm knocked off a 10' long major limb -- abou 6" diameter at the break. Hoping I can find someone who wants it for cooking wood -- otherwise -- got my work cut out next weekend.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

"presets"= it's more of a reset, that's to say many router bits are sets (matched) like the rail & style bits set for cabinet doors and others,,,,it takes two bits to make the parts for a cabinet door,, once you use one of the bits the height of the next bit should not be moved up or down and should be in the same place as the 1st, bit, with the reset jig that can be done easy,,,
Once you set the 1st bit and use it on the stock set the (reset block with the screws on it) right behind the fence and lock it in place, then put the 2nd bit in and move the fence right back to the same point it was when you used the 1st. bit ,the and joints will line right up right on the buttton with almost no sanding at all....  and fit just right ....

NOTE*** you may ask how do you keep the bit at the same height if you take out one and replace it with the next bit,,,, the trick to this is to use a rubber gromet in the base of the collet nut, that the bit just sits on when you switch out the bits....the rubber gromet is a stop point for the bit..
Just about all matched router bits sets are the same height from the bottom of the bit to the cutter(s).... 

You can used a rubber gromet or a rubber faucet washer, that works the best for most collet nuts, they are just the right size to push in the bottom part of the collet nut, you can get them at HD/Ace Hardware/Lowes just about any hardware store sales a repair faucet washer kit...it should have 2 or 3 in the kit...that will just fit.. 

Once you use the rubber insert you will ask yourself how did I ever do it without it...  

This little trick will save you from making any firewood ....








Bj 




Drugstore Cowboy said:


> BJ -
> Thanks - didnt mean to take a chunk out of your Saturday -- but that DOES make it a lot more clear. Appreciate it.
> 
> I like your -- 'presets' too.


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