# Someday I'd like to make...



## kklowell (Dec 26, 2014)

A perfect template.
I'm working on a router wing for my table saw and made a template to cut out the hole for the insert (which, because I'm cheap and didn't prepare well for retirement) will be a piece of the same material the table top is made of. Because of this, I cut the insert first, traced around it on 1/4 inch plywood and cut that out with my bandsaw. Then I sanded to my traced line. It's going to work, but it wouldn't qualify for any awards for sure. I will say that it's a LOT nicer looking than my first attempt which was just trying to jig saw on a line. All that did for me was generate some scrap.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

If it works that is all that counts


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## kklowell (Dec 26, 2014)

I know, and I am for sure more about function than beauty, but still, just once I'd like both.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

You want beauty, then you do what I do. Either modify it, bondo, sanding, cut away some and glue a piece in, whatever it takes, then use that to make a new one. Repeat as needed. OR, start over. Again, repeat as needed. But for things for my shop, as long as it looks decent, it works, then it's normally "close enough is good enough". If a hole really needs to be accurate tho, I use a hole saw, or on occasion, a hole cutter.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

kklowell said:


> A perfect template.
> I'm working on a router wing for my table saw and made a template to cut out the hole for the insert (which, because I'm cheap and didn't prepare well for retirement) will be a piece of the same material the table top is made of. Because of this, I cut the insert first, traced around it on 1/4 inch plywood and cut that out with my bandsaw. Then I sanded to my traced line. It's going to work, but it wouldn't qualify for any awards for sure. I will say that it's a LOT nicer looking than my first attempt which was just trying to jig saw on a line. All that did for me was generate some scrap.


Ken, maybe this video will help you out.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

hawkeye10 said:


> Ken, maybe this video will help you out.


That was interesting. I did my router plate insert totally different, but it is dead accurate anyway. And I had no clue how I did it. Making it was one of those Zen woodworking things, where I know I want to make something, not a clue how, and as soon as I grab a ruler and pencil, then everything pretty much goes blank until it is finished. Get some interesting results that way tho, and so far they all work.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

This is how I am after Zen woodworking.


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## kklowell (Dec 26, 2014)

JOAT said:


> You want beauty, then you do what I do. Either modify it, bondo, sanding, cut away some and glue a piece in, whatever it takes, then use that to make a new one. Repeat as needed. OR, start over. Again, repeat as needed. But for things for my shop, as long as it looks decent, it works, then it's normally "close enough is good enough". If a hole really needs to be accurate tho, I use a hole saw, or on occasion, a hole cutter.


Oh, it is close enough because it is for the shop and it isn't _that_ bad. However, when I do want to make a better whatever, I'll use your suggestions. I honestly hadn't thought of bondo, but I like the idea.


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## kklowell (Dec 26, 2014)

Interesting video, Don.That technique would have been so much simpler than what I did. That dude ought to learn about dust masks though!


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

kklowell said:


> Oh, it is close enough because it is for the shop and it isn't _that_ bad. However, when I do want to make a better whatever, I'll use your suggestions. I honestly hadn't thought of bondo, but I like the idea.


Some people use bondo in their finished template. Fine for if you are only going to use it once. But with mine about 99% are used more, sometime a lot more. So I just use the bondo (or wood filler, or whatever) to make a really good one, then use that one to make one I will keep. But, for one time use, likely no problem. My templates (masters) are two layers of 1/2" plywood, I like the thickness because, among other things, can get a good grip on it. At times, for the second layer I will glue small pieces on the first, then rout that. Looks ugly as can be when that side is up, but works just as good as a solid piece.


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## senorwanderer (May 18, 2020)

good video


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

I cheated on my new table and bought the Kreg Insert Plate Levelers ....easy peasy! https://www.kregtool.com/store/c41/routing-accessories/p148/precision-router-table-insert-plate-levelers/ 

easy as long as your double sided tape doesn't slip.....


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

hawkeye10 said:


> Ken, maybe this video will help you out.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uv8LqTfWOkc


I was wondering how the heck the radius’s we’re going to work with that large bit, but at the end he sanded the plates corners to give them less os a radius.
Not the way I would do it . 

I would use his idea of making a perimeter of wood around the plate as a template , but would reinforce it with pocket holes first , then use the double sided tape to hold it in place.
Then I’d use this bit to get the perimeter hogged out at the right depth , well as long as it was the same radius as the plates corners .
After that you could use a 1/8th bit with a bushing to cut out the threw hole.
In my case I’d cut the hole right threw the same size as the plate , then install those Kreg corner adjusters that go under the plate


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

kklowell said:


> I know, and I am for sure more about function than beauty, but still, just once I'd like both.


Pics?


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