# Need flip stop suggestions



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

As I mentioned in my Acme Dowel Cannon post, I found stuff during my bi-decade bench cleaning. Among them was a nice spring-loaded cabinet hinge.

I thought it might be perfect for making a flip up stop for my miter saw fence. The original which is just an L shape (Photo 1) works very well but I often wish I could just flip it out of the way.

The hinge seemed like a good idea and it seemed to be pretty tight. So I made a new stop using the hinge (Photos 2, 3, and 4).

The good news:
1. It is easy to position.
2. It looks nice.
3. It flips up and down well.
4. Did I mention it looks nice?

The bad new:
1. It sucks.
2. It sucks.
3. It sucks.
4. Beauty isn't everything.

The problem is the hinge has more lateral play than I thought so there is about 1/16" to 3/32" of play in the stop. Okay, I know Kreg and others make nice, strong flip stops but Rockler already owns my soul and Grizzly, Woodcraft and the others are fighting for whatever is left. I don't really want to spend money on a 'convenience'. When it comes right down to it, my original works fine.

So, help me out here. I know you guys have suggestions.


----------



## 57759 (Apr 8, 2011)

Gaffboat said:


> As I mentioned in my Acme Dowel Cannon post, I found stuff during my bi-decade bench cleaning. Among them was a nice spring-loaded cabinet hinge.
> 
> I thought it might be perfect for making a flip up stop for my miter saw fence. The original which is just an L shape (Photo 1) works very well but I often wish I could just flip it out of the way.
> 
> ...


****************************************************
To use that hinge it looks to me as if the pin will need to be removed and the barrel halves shimmed with a washer the correct thickness so there is zero lateral movement.


----------



## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Oliver,

I understand your question, but am left wondering...can you not just slide the flip-stop beyond the limits of your (at hand) workpiece?


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

OPG3 said:


> Oliver,
> 
> I understand your question, but am left wondering...can you not just slide the flip-stop beyond the limits of your (at hand) workpiece?


Yes I can, but that sometimes entails actually sliding it off the end of the T-track. Then it takes a bit longer to get it back in place. It would be convenient if I don't lose the original placement so that all cuts are exactly the same.


----------



## Admin (Feb 13, 2012)

Exchange the recessed hinge for a brass hinge, no play or slap in the knuckle if you get a reasonable quality one


----------



## kmacrae354 (Nov 22, 2011)

*Too much play*

If the play is in the hinge, replace the hinge with a nice heavy duty 3.5 or 4" door hinge. 
If it's loose at the lockdown, the longer hinge will provide more surface area and room for another lockdown nut. 
Enjoy,
Kevin


----------



## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

If your willing to abandon using that hinge and go a different route, take a look at the attached PDF. Since you already have a t-track isntalled, it would work perfect for you, just modify the dimensions accordingly.


----------



## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Stop on drill press fence, albeit not to your distance requirements, will not slip.
There is no backlash in it.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just one more way,,,a simple tee slot in some MDF with some slide blocks for stopping points on both sides of the chop saw blade, I also use the same thing on my RAS.. 

No slop dead on every time 

===


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Holy Hanna! It's either that or a new BMW...:0


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

That last comment of mine was in reference to Pat's link.
What a beautiful piece of machinery! (the fence stop).


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Noob said:


> If your willing to abandon using that hinge and go a different route, take a look at the attached PDF. Since you already have a t-track isntalled, it would work perfect for you, just modify the dimensions accordingly.


Paulo if I had received your reply earlier in the day I might have gone that route. I thought about a similar approach using L brackets but what I had on hand were not the right size. I'm going to file your PDF away in case I need it. Others have had some good suggestions too.

I was determined to make something using what I had on hand and after digging around and looking lots of options I finally found a euro hinge that had little or no play. So, here's the revised version with photos showing it in the up and down position and view of the back side showing how the hinge is attached. The last one is an animation showing how it works.

The good news:
1. It works!

The bad news:
1. None yet. We'll see how it does in the test of time.

Thanks again to all for your input.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Novel idea, Oliver.

I would never have thought of using a Euro hinge in that way.


----------



## 57759 (Apr 8, 2011)

I'm inclined to prefer your first approach from a design standpoint because of it flipping 180°.


----------



## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

> Okay, I know Kreg and others make nice, strong flip stops


Oliver, It looks like you've solved your problem quite nicely. While in the hardware store today and purchasing some items that had been on back-order, the thought occured to me that you could probably make it in two wooden parts joined via horizontally positioned studs embedded into the horizontal wooden part and passing into and through the vertical wooden part. With well-placed and recessed holes in the vertical part - a couple of brass knurled nuts should return it to its desired original location. If alignment gets to be a major concern, a third wooden part could be permanently attached to either other part to serve as a "key".


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

*Finally! A better version.*

I should have listened to Leonardo da Vinci when he said "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication."

Today I took a close look at euro hinge flip stop and realized it had an issue. Although it didn't flex, the bottom of the stop was about a 32nd or more out of alignment with the top. I must not have installed my hinge entirely square with the stop. A minor issue maybe but it bugged me.

I also agreed with SandbuRanch's comment: I'm inclined to prefer your first approach from a design standpoint because of it flipping 180°"

So, today I built a third one by simplifying the Shop Notes suggestion by Noob. Now I have a simple, solid, easy flip stop that flips completely out of the way. If you aren't completely bored with this topic by now, I have attached photos showing the new stop and how it works in action.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Gaffboat said:


> I should have listened to Leonardo da Vinci when he said "Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication."
> 
> Today I took a close look at euro hinge flip stop and realized it had an issue. Although it didn't flex, the bottom of the stop was about a 32nd or more out of alignment with the top. I must not have installed my hinge entirely square with the stop. A minor issue maybe but it bugged me.
> 
> ...


Hardly bored Oliver - nice job. Kinda inspired me to make a couple myself. I haven't exactly been enthralled with the one I have on my miter guage fence and could use a couple on the drill press too. Thanks for the pictorial. :yes4::thank_you2:


----------



## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Wow! Problem solved. Looks really good and cost effective. Well executed, also! Thaks for sharing that.


----------



## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Looks great. I'll need something like that for mine (assuming I ever get back to finishing it .. don't ask). One question - what do you think the workable height would be? My fence (mythical as it seems to be right now) will be 5-11/16" high.

GCG


----------



## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

I really like how you simplified the flip stop by removing the notch shown on step 15 of the PDF. How did you make the flipper flip back and forth, did you add a servo motor or something? Just kidding, the animated gifs you've added to your posts are icing on the cake, thanks for sharing!


----------



## 57759 (Apr 8, 2011)

*AW YES.* that thing will do flip flops. Better get to the patent office quick.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Very nice! what kind and size of wood did you use for the L-shaped pieces?


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Nicely executed!!


----------



## wuzfuzde (Feb 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Just one more way,,,a simple tee slot in some MDF with some slide blocks for stopping points on both sides of the chop saw blade, I also use the same thing on my RAS..
> 
> ...


Bob could you post some more photos of the miter saw stop s --some times- no all the time i'm thicker than a chunk of wood ....thanks 
Bill


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

The L-shaped pieces are 1/4" MDF. The filler pieces are poplar.


----------

