# Glue joint bit



## Wizard1500 (Jul 20, 2009)

Has anyone used the Glue Joint Bit from MLCS?....If so, what is your opinion of it?.....Thanks.....


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

To be honest, used mine only once. My opinion of it? Not any different than any other glue bit. IMHO, you just can't beat the free shipping from MLCS so, I guess in a way, it's an excellent bit.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I use a glue joint bit from Sommerfeld. Should be same just different maker. I use it frequently to make wider panels such as a raised panel for cabinet doors. Once it is set up it makes for a strong joint.


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## Wizard1500 (Jul 20, 2009)

Sorry, I worded my question wrong....what I'm really wanting to know is if a glue joint bit is worth buying....is it easier to make flat panel with.....without any ledges that have to be sainded out?.....I'm thinking about replacing our kitchen cabs, and will have plenty of raised panels to do. Thanks.....


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## Timberwerkz (Jan 1, 2010)

Carl,

I use Glue joint bits on all of my major glue-ups. The speed and ease of glueing panels together is what makes it worth it to me. You can still get ledges if the parts aren't all the same size or something get under the board as you push it through your router, but they are usually very minimal. It takes a little planning during machining to keep all of the show faces where you want them, but when its time to glue them up set them in the clamps and tighten they will straighten themselves out for you most of the time. I have the Freud and use it a lot.

Well worth it in my opinion,

Chris


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

The additional surface contact area they provide alone make em worth the investment..


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Carl

I have and it's one of the PITA bits to use most of the time, it's not the bit it's the stock the norm, I just about always use thicker stock to start out with and than run in under the planer..to true it up..


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Wizard1500 said:


> Has anyone used the Glue Joint Bit from MLCS?....If so, what is your opinion of it?.....Thanks.....


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Carl
> 
> I have and it's one of the PITA bits to use most of the time, it's not the bit it's the stock the norm, I just about always use thicker stock to start out with and than run in under the planer..to true it up..
> 
> ...


+1 on the stock, been having better luck with a wedge T&G lately.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Yes and no. As John said, T&G bits give you a better strength joint and are far easier for setups. Now, is it worth buying? Again, you'd be better off with the good ol' T&G bit. These can be varied in spacing to match the thickness of your stock, again, making setups easier.


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## Wizard1500 (Jul 20, 2009)

Thanks, all.....looks like this bit will be helpful.....


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I use the GJ bit I have on stock over 5/4 and all stock that'll spend all its time outside.


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## Wizard1500 (Jul 20, 2009)

Thank everyone for your help.... I'm going to look at the T&G bits before deciding.....


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## HDS (Jun 3, 2009)

*Finger Joint bit*



Wizard1500 said:


> Has anyone used the Glue Joint Bit from MLCS?....If so, what is your opinion of it?.....Thanks.....



Good day Carl,
like many answers here, I bought a relatively inexpensive Tornado Tapered finger jointer bit for a coffee table project.
I wouldn't say it's my most commonly used tool, but it does a great job.


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## Wizard1500 (Jul 20, 2009)

I've been thinking about this.....I have the OP box joint setup. It looks to me like I could use that setup (1/4") to cut the T&G joints...my stock will be 3/4".....does this seem feasible?.....(sorry for the questions, but I am learning.....my window seat w/ raised panels turned out nice, so it's time to advance my projects....)


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Wizard1500 said:


> I've been thinking about this.....I have the OP box joint setup. It looks to me like I could use that setup (1/4") to cut the T&G joints...my stock will be 3/4".....does this seem feasible?.....(sorry for the questions, but I am learning.....my window seat w/ raised panels turned out nice, so it's time to advance my projects....)


Not sure I'm following you exactly here. All you need is to use is, your normal fence system with the T&G bit NOT, the OP spacer fences. You just align the top and bottom cutters to match the material plus, isolate the bearing. Make your first cut, use your cut to readjust the cutter, lower the bit so that the top cutter is cutting the groove.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

hi Carl

Yes ,you can use the OP jig that way if you don't have a set of T & G bits But the stock must be very true, that's neat part of the T & G bits it will true the stock up with the pass on both parts.. 

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Wizard1500 said:


> I've been thinking about this.....I have the OP box joint setup. It looks to me like I could use that setup (1/4") to cut the T&G joints...my stock will be 3/4".....does this seem feasible?.....(sorry for the questions, but I am learning.....my window seat w/ raised panels turned out nice, so it's time to advance my projects....)


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## Wizard1500 (Jul 20, 2009)

Ok, thanks.....I'll try a test with the OP jig this afternoon...if I'm not pleased with it, I'll order the t&g bits....Thanks, again for everyone's help.....


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

I have another question about the GJ bit. Is it an appropriate joint to use for a wide panel that will be raised. Will the revealed part at the edge of the panel front be ugly once mounted in rails and stiles?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Terry

If you are going to make panels it 's best not to use the GJ bit or the T & G bits, just butt glue them up.., the bit's will have that little gap that will show up the norm.


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dawziecat said:


> I have another question about the GJ bit. Is it an appropriate joint to use for a wide panel that will be http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1i6dUmi9xg. Will the revealed part at the edge of the panel front be ugly once mounted in rails and stiles?


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

Thanks, Bj. I'll retire my new GJ bit for a while then, until the panels are done.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Your Welcome Terry

Here's some snapshots of some old ones glued up the butt way,they are about 6 years old and still holding just fine.. 

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dawziecat said:


> Thanks, Bj. I'll retire my new GJ bit for a while then, until the panels are done.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I use the glue joint bit on all raised panels that are glued together. If set up right it should be hard to find the joint even on stain grade work. If you see any gap then the bit is not set up right. The picture shows where the glue joint is from a glue joint bit. The glue you use can also be a factor in how much your joint shows up & that could happen with any joint you use.


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

Thanks, James. I sure can't see any evidence of a joint where your finger is. Lovely finish on the panels. What is it . . . sprayed urethane?


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

dawziecat said:


> Thanks, James. I sure can't see any evidence of a joint where your finger is. Lovely finish on the panels. What is it . . . sprayed urethane?


Yes, I sprayed Deft Satin Polyurethaneon this. I used Naptha to thin & sprayed with an HVLP gun.


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

I have no experience with spraying. Gonn'a have to have a look into one of those HVLP guns. You have to have a work area exterior to the house though, right? Respirators . . . making sure no sparks are about . . . all that sort of stuff?


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

dawziecat said:


> I have no experience with spraying. Gonn'a have to have a look into one of those HVLP guns. You have to have a work area exterior to the house though, right? Respirators . . . making sure no sparks are about . . . all that sort of stuff?


I would definitely use a respirator when spraying. For the door in the picture I used a 60gal compressor w/5hp & a Huskey HVLP gun from Home Depot. Not a top dollar setup but it gave good results. I spray sanding sealer after stain has dried then the finish coats of poly sanding lightly with 220 grit between coats just to remove any dust nibs.

I don't have a spray booth so I spray then close everything up & let dry overnight until last coat trying to minimize dust. Do not let dry in sun as finish will bubble. My shop is in my 2 car garage so everything is on wheels & rolled outside when working. I spray inside shop at certain times of day or night to minimize wind. This seems to work for me as finish is usually dust free. I set projects on lazy susan to spin while spraying to minimize my movements.


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