# I Like Tung Oil



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

I do understand that finishes vary depending on the purpose and/or the enviourment that the finished project will be used for.

I must once again press the point that I am a new comer to woodworking, but so far my favorite procedure for finishing my work that will reside indoors is to first, after doing the sanding, is to use a product called Tough Coat to seal the wood, then add the stain prep, add the stain, and then use several very light applications of Tung Oil sanding lightly between applications so there is no build up. The procedure is so simple, and results are very good in my opinion.

Does anybody have any suggestions that for other procedures that I might want to try. I know that Minwax products are very popular but I have not used it due to the fact that it seems to be hard to keep it from building up on the surface of the wood, maybe I should try to thin it. Comment are being solicited.

Jerry
Colorado City, TX


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Jerry Bowen said:


> I do understand that finishes vary depending on the purpose and/or the enviourment that the finished project will be used for.
> 
> I must once again press the point that I am a new comer to woodworking, but so far my favorite procedure for finishing my work that will reside indoors is to first, after doing the sanding, is to use a product called Tough Coat to seal the wood, then add the stain prep, add the stain, and then use several very light applications of Tung Oil sanding lightly between applications so there is no build up. The procedure is so simple, and results are very good in my opinion.
> 
> ...


Hi Jerry - I just used Tung oil on an outdoor project last year for the first time. I was refinishing an old lawn glider and discovered mahoganey beneath several layers of paint. After sanding it down and cleaning it up, I just flooded the wood with as much as it would soak up. Let it dry some and did it again... four more times. Ended up with a nice hard finish and it weathered the winter very well. I'm pretty sold on the stuff. I didn't seal it though, I'm thinking the tung oil did all the sealing needed.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Jerry, a similar product you might like to try is Watco Danish Oil. One advantage it offers is the availability of different tints. It works very similar to Tung oil and leaves a very soft sheen finish as if it were hand rubbed. If you want a glossy finish you can do this the easy way with spray can lacquer or polyurethane. These products build up on the surface to protect the wood and require no maintenance. There is always the old school method of using Johnsons paste wax. Wax builds depth quickly for a glass like appearance. It will require some maintenance down the road and does not protect the wood like polyurethane but it is still the standard for floors and can be easily cleaned up.


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

Jerry,
I recently tried a 'Sam Maloof' mix on a small chest and the finish is terrific.
Equal parts of tung oil, boiled linseed oil and polyurethane with a dash of terebene as a drying agent. Rub on and rub off well, Apply as many coats as you see fit.
I polished it up with a beeswax polish to get a very low sheen finish. 
The final sheen will depend on the polyurethane you use.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

John, I am not certain, but I suspect that sealing before adding the oil might just prevent you haveing to apply so many coats, I'm not sure of that though. But as you say, it is really good stuff.

Jerry


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Jerry, the bulk of my work is not intended to be pretty because prototypes for the apparati that I invent or consult/design are usually bound to be made of something cast-in-foundry, injection-molded or welded-up. I do, however; make several types of abaci and because they might get [literally] chewed on by a youngster, my choice finish for the hardwoods I utilize has become Mineral Oil. It is food-safe and therefore I have no worries. A few years ago I came-up with a way to tumble polish and brighten those same hardwoods with crushed raw peanuts - it did a beautiful job, but when I showed it to my wife - she reminded me that some people are extremely allergic to peanuts. I did not want to take chances with something like that and it is for that reason that I had a time of kindling our fireplace with some really nice-looking and precisely drilled hardwood pieces. For a few hundred "pieces", I've been using Mineral Oil and it has served me well. My reason for mentioning this is to suggest toxicity of some things - especially when around young children, some of which put anything they handle in their mouths.. Good Luck and I am glad that you're hanging in there. This is another example of a thought-provoking question that you seem so good at adding to the forum. Thanks so much!


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Jerry Bowen said:


> John, I am not certain, but I suspect that sealing before adding the oil might just prevent you haveing to apply so many coats, I'm not sure of that though. But as you say, it is really good stuff.
> 
> Jerry


Hi Jerry - You're probably right. Actually, the wood was pretty old and getting cracks in it. I actually couldn't get ALL the paint off without sanding way to deeply, so my intention wound to get as much oil back in it as possible. Seems to have worked well as it soaked in and hardened nicely.


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## Billy Boy (Mar 4, 2012)

Tung oil is a good finish. I make cheese boards and am now using hemp seed oil. It is easy to use, non-toxic, has no chemical additives, and has a nice rural odor. I would recommend finishes that are eco-firiendly and I think we should minimize chemical added finishes. Billy Boy


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Jerry Bowen said:


> I do understand that finishes vary depending on the purpose and/or the enviourment that the finished project will be used for.
> 
> I must once again press the point that I am a new comer to woodworking, but so far my favorite procedure for finishing my work that will reside indoors is to first, after doing the sanding, is to use a product called Tough Coat to seal the wood, then add the stain prep, add the stain, and then use several very light applications of Tung Oil sanding lightly between applications so there is no build up. The procedure is so simple, and results are very good in my opinion.
> 
> ...


Most of my quality projects like this clock on the left were finished with five coats of quality Danish oil, leaving about a day between coats to harden,no sanding between coats. After the last coat several days were left for a really hard finish which was then rubbed down with 0000 grade wire wool lubricated with wax polish. The more it's rubbed the higher the shine. The result is glass smooth with depth to it. I applied the oil with a piece of lint free rag.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Bill; "nice rural odour" ?!! Are we talking about caca de vaca here?


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Another one I have tried last year, and have been using ever since is Boiled Linseed Oil. I love how it makes the work just pop out.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

harrysin said:


> Most of my quality projects like this clock on the left were finished with five coats of quality Danish oil, leaving about a day between coats to harden,no sanding between coats. After the last coat several days were left for a really hard finish which was then rubbed down with 0000 grade wire wool lubricated with wax polish. The more it's rubbed the higher the shine. The result is glass smooth with depth to it. I applied the oil with a piece of lint free rag.


Aren't Danish oil soaked rags more prone to spontaneous combustion? I think I read once they require careful disposal.

GCG


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

In all the years that I've used Danish oil I've never heard anything about it's flammability. Personally I very much doubt that spontaneous combustion has ever been a problem. It's finish is second to none and of course when dried is guaranteed to be food safe and suitable for indoor and outdoor use. The only reason that I don't often use it these days is because most of my posted projects are made specifically as tutorials for beginners and thinners based lacquer dries in about ten minutes ready for the next coat.

Edit:A few hours have elapsed since I posted the above, and sine that time I've been searching the internet and there is a great deal relating to possible dangers of Linseed oil soaked rags self igniting but little on Danish oil, however, I found the following post on a forum and it fits my own extensive experience. The rag that I use I fold into a square about 2" and between coats I place it in a resealable plastic bag, for no other reason than to use only the one rag for the whole project. When finished with I pop it into the bin.

Hi All,

I use Danish Oil regularly with my work. I have always spread out the cloth on a wall outside the workshop to dry for several days, then put them in the rubbish bin. I assumed that once the solvents have evaporated the thing was safe. I can't decide now if this was correct or I've just been lucky several times a week for 25 years!

Whatever else I do, I never keep a "wet" cloth in the workshop. tin or otherwise. I new cloth is cheap, a fire isn't.

BTW, does anyone else find that using Danish Oil on shafts ends up with staw from bosses welded to them? I've pulled some before now (eventually) out of a boss, looking like an organic bog brush!


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

geoff_s said:


> Jerry,
> I recently tried a 'Sam Maloof' mix on a small chest and the finish is terrific.
> Equal parts of tung oil, boiled linseed oil and polyurethane with a dash of terebene as a drying agent. Rub on and rub off well, Apply as many coats as you see fit.
> I polished it up with a beeswax polish to get a very low sheen finish.
> The final sheen will depend on the polyurethane you use.


Where do you obtain terebene?


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## Billy Boy (Mar 4, 2012)

My "rural odor" is not anything like "caca de vaca", but an earthy odor like sweet grass. Hemp seed oil is very ancient and has hundreds of uses. To find out more about hemp seed oil, visit the site of Hempola, near Barrie, Ontario, Canada, where I purchase mine. I know they ship all around the world. Billy boy, an eco friendly wood finisher.


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

denniswoody said:


> Where do you obtain terebene?


Any paint manufacturer/supplier should have it 
_To correct my spelling, it should be terebine_


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

geoff_s said:


> Any paint manufacturer/supplier should have it
> _To correct my spelling, it should be terebine_


Thanks very much. I will look for it.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Harry, I found this on any drying oil and spontaneous combustion.

TIP: Oil and Spontaneous Combustion @ The Finishing Store News

Apparently it's the Linseed oil content in the Danish oil that's at issue.

GCG


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