# Biscuit Jointer- basic Q.



## the captain (Oct 29, 2008)

Hi chaps of the woods..

I have such an annoying Q I cant get my head around. Bought a basic biscuit jointer, 3 settings 0-10-20. I have a huge bag of no 20 biscuits ready for my 1st practise/ basic side-to-side joining using 18mm Mdf. 

I get the basics asap and off I go and cut the slots with jointer dial on 20, for my no.20 biscuits. I actually make cabinets for a living/ so thought this was going to be a breeze.. erm..

The no.20 slots seem to be just shy of 10mm deep, and correspondingly the blade extends 10mm call it. Fine/ hey that makes sense! nice easy job. So, I glue & tap in a biscuit sitting nice and centrally, and pop on the joining slotted section of mdf with a tap down. There's a 3mm gap. I tap down firmer to close it. The gap remains/ the joint n/g and I scratch my head. 20 biscuits? check. no 20 on the jointer dial? check. So why the 3mm gap?

I see online the std size of a no 20 biscuit is 23mm!!

What's going on? am I doing s'thing as daft as can be? Is there something wrong with my jointer (its brand new/ 0-10-20 seem appropriately staggered in cutter depth). Or should I be using no 10 biscuits for no 20 on the jointer dial?? surely not.. but then again a no 10 biscuit is 19mm.. which would be a 'perfect' fit. 

Im utterly flummoxed. Please help.

Thanks Captain.


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## TheOakDude (Oct 11, 2011)

2 Possibilities,
1. You are not plunging in far enough???Probably not the answer but it could be the case.
2. Your Cutter needs adjusting a little say 1.5mm further out. There should be an adjuster knob somewhere, there is on my DeWalt, though I didnt need to touch it.
Just thought of a possible 3rd, have the biscuits been kept in a dry environment or have they been left out, possible they have swollen a little with environmental humidity.
Paul


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## the captain (Oct 29, 2008)

Hi Mr. Oak,

Biscuits dry as a bone, brand new packet all standard size for no. 20 (53mm iirc x 4mm x 23mm) as one would expect. The biscuit jointer is brand new too.

Im plunging in as far as the setting at no 20 allows/ fully inwards & Im making certain/ there's no chance Im not plunging in deep enough, as there's a firm stop. Its the same as you'd expect, on each cut. The depth for my no 20 is nr bang on 10mm cutter depth.

So what is the normal jointer cutter depth with its setting at '20' (whatever 20 refers to exactly I dont know.. I guess its just an arbitrary figure rather than corresponding to 2x10mm cutter depth or '20mm'. 

The 3mm gap is always going to be present.. this is, I assume, not what I should be seeinh.. is it? surely the gap isn't designed to be so for gluing/ expansion duties? Im utterly bewildered with this.


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## TheOakDude (Oct 11, 2011)

Good question, mine works perfect with No 20, so I will go out and measure it this evening and post later on tonight.
Paul


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Cpt, what brand/model is your biscuit joiner?


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## the captain (Oct 29, 2008)

Its only a cheapo admiteddly/ a Wickes 860w (Wickes is a decent quality UK big store type place). Its only for some Lp and cd storage boxes/ no deWalt needed per se.

from some various/ std types abound on the www which have specs available to see (mine not) most seem to have 'cutter depth 0-22mm'. I would assume as mine is a very std looking BJointer design, it would follow suit.. but my max seems to be less than half at max 10mm. Very puzzling. Ill see if there is some way of extending the blade out.. but apart from the preset '20' setting being the deepest I dont see what I can do.


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## allbarknobite (Sep 15, 2011)

*Is there a fine adjustment?*



the captain said:


> Its only a cheapo admiteddly/ a Wickes 860w (Wickes is a decent quality UK big store type place). Its only for some Lp and cd storage boxes/ no deWalt needed per se.
> from some various/ std types abound on the www which have specs available to see (mine not) most seem to have 'cutter depth 0-22mm'. I would assume as mine is a very std looking BJointer design, it would follow suit.. but my max seems to be less than half at max 10mm. Very puzzling. Ill see if there is some way of extending the blade out.. but apart from the preset '20' setting being the deepest I dont see what I can do.


I agree with Paul.
I don't see a "fine" adjustment on your machine. :moil:
Attached is a Porter Cable image of the pdf instructions which explicitly shows a fine adjustment option.

Mark


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## the captain (Oct 29, 2008)

Sorted, thanks Mark for the thumbnail.. not similar pic but had me scour mine and with common sense I found indeed there was a tiny fine adjustment 4mm screw. On the manual is had nothing but 'factory set/ don't touch it' basically/ odd.

Pain in the butt as the screw isn't tight, so with blade vibration it resets itself every time..! but nothing a firm plug of blutack wont fix (britney-poster-on-wall-putty-stuff).

Cheers, very helpful/ very good site this evidently. Capt.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

A simple easy way to lock threads that is removeable is to use nail polish. Let it dry before use. If you need to change it nail polish remover does the trick. This is also much cheaper than using a thread locking product like VibraTite. VibraTite offers what I consider to be the best product for locking screws; coat the threads, let it dry a bit then adjust. Within 24 hours it has locked the adjustment. You can adjust the thread and it will relock within 24 hours. This is tough to beat but you pay for what you get.


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## TheOakDude (Oct 11, 2011)

Hi Guys,
sorry for the late post but hey thats 2 year olds for you...
My Biscuit jointer on setting for 20 biscuit, delves approx 14mm... this gives plenty of room for both the biscuit and lots of glue....max cut is 20mm again from the adjust screw. Really happy you found the issue.... I also learn lots from these very experienced chapps. Its a Gold Mine... Like you say, if its only a temp tool, why pay the price...
I only bought the goody because I will be using it for the next 20years...
LOL
ALL GOOD
Cheers


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Why buy a high price biscuit joiner ,you can do it all on your router table for just the cost of one slot cutter..

Biscuit kits and Glue Spreader

===


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## TheOakDude (Oct 11, 2011)

Absolutely correct.......unless you have to make cuts live on site.....otherwise...table does it...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

True yes and no, once you have a router it can do it right on the job site just like biscuit joiner...now angle joints are little bit harder but that's when the angle base on your trim router comes into play..


http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-PR005-T...sc_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1322258201&sr=1-3-spell

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TheOakDude said:


> Absolutely correct.......unless you have to make cuts live on site.....otherwise...table does it...


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## allbarknobite (Sep 15, 2011)

*"Lamello Brand" round "plates" (biscuits)*



bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Why buy a high price biscuit joiner ,you can do it all on your router table for just the cost of one slot cutter..
> 
> ...


Just a mention that instead of a plate joiner, I use "Lamello Brand" round "plates" (biscuits) made specifically for a 5/32" slot cutter. 
These round biscuits are not well advertised, but do a great job.
(For cabinet or face framing. 5/32" Slot Cutter (1-15/16" LD) and 100 #11 biscuits. Kit #8364 - 1/2" shank ) 
(Use with Titebond Ultimate III Glue for a joint that is stronger than the wood...)
Try MLCS Router Bits and Woodworking Products Look for "biscuits"
Mark


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just add on note, This is one time you want to stick with the 1/4" shank cutter, so you can use it on the router table and the small router (trim router )  and yes any trim router will do the job just fine.

Kit # 6064
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## the captain (Oct 29, 2008)

No IMO a router with slot-bit just doesn't cut the mustard (english expression/ erm.. 'falls short for the job' as it were) compared to a BJointer proper. Its so quick in comparison it makes the job a breeze, and its very safe too/ no naked blades to keep an eye on. Mine's great, but for the minor issue now resolved. 

I'll try nail polish, thx for the tip. 

14mm seems rather alot/ I set mine at 12mm and did my 1st BJointer job (Lp storage boxes.. a very important job!) with good results. Me no-likey circ/saw or router roundover MDF though. horrible.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

They work very well for me, I have 3 of the " BJointer" machines and they are all a PITA to use..

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/23364-mitered-raised-panel-doors.html

==


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Why buy a high price biscuit joiner ,you can do it all on your router table for just the cost of one slot cutter..





the captain said:


> No IMO a router with slot-bit just doesn't cut the mustard (english expression/ erm.. 'falls short for the job' as it were) compared to a BJointer proper. Its so quick in comparison it makes the job a breeze, and its very safe too/ no naked blades to keep an eye on. Mine's great, but for the minor issue now resolved.


I'd say that the Captain has only got part of the answer. Biscuit jointers are a lot faster to use than routers, Bob, especially if you are doing a hundred or so cuts. But, the one thing a router can't do easily is make a slot on a bevel edge piece, such as the joint you'd have in a 6-sided planter. for that you really do need a biscuit jointer

Regards

Phil


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Phil

True but how many time do you need one for a planter ?
MLCS Euro door, door lip, finger pull, drawer lock bits, glue joint router bits

With the glues we have now days you don't need a biscuit at all you just need to use the right router bit to make a planter..

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Phil P said:


> I'd say that the Captain has only got part of the answer. Biscuit jointers are a lot faster to use than routers, Bob, especially if you are doing a hundred or so cuts. But, the one thing a router can't do easily is make a slot on a bevel edge piece, such as the joint you'd have in a 6-sided planter. for that you really do need a biscuit jointer
> 
> Regards
> 
> Phil


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> True but how many time do you need one for a planter ?


Maybe not for planters, Bob, but I do use biscuit jointers on similar items such as site-assembled rectangular/mult--faceted posts, MDF shop fittings, etc. where a location aid is required. 

BTW in my opinion _for the environment I work in_ (commercial) glue alone won't hack it for mitred joints. It's just a different environment

Regards

Phil


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Phil

I know this is waste of time but it can be done easy on a Horiz.router table not just a short pocket holes slot but on long slot that one can put the Biscuits into and not fuss with the line up of all the biscuits..almost like a spline but quicker..

You may say what type of bit can I use on the Horz.router table for biscuits..
I use the ones below
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_solid.html

Spiral Upcut and Downcut Router Bits

#5155 5/32" 9/16" 1/4" 2" $15.95 
#5141 1/8" 1/2" 1/4" 2" $13.95




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Phil P said:


> Maybe not for planters, Bob, but I do use biscuit jointers on similar items such as site-assembled rectangular/mult--faceted posts, MDF shop fittings, etc. where a location aid is required.
> 
> BTW in my opinion _for the environment I work in_ (commercial) glue alone won't hack it for mitred joints. It's just a different environment
> 
> ...


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Too many tools and too many different ways of doing the same thing.
Pick the one that's most fit for one's own situation and go with it.


Glad to see that the OP got his problem sorted.


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