# Removing Machine Marks From Boards



## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Hi,
Removing planer ripple and any other machining marks from house door rails, stiles and wide raised panels.
Whats the way to go?
Thanks.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Gaia said:


> Hi,
> Removing planer ripple and any other machining marks from house door rails, stiles and wide raised panels.
> Whats the way to go?
> Thanks.


control the snipe to start with...

smoothing plane and sanding to remove...


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Probably the best way to avoid snipe is to use a sacrificial piece of wood ahead and behind the actual one(s). Also, if you have multiple pieces, over lap them through the planer. So feed the lead in sacrifice, then your pieces, then the tail end sacrifice all in one uninterrupted stream. 

Also, a scraper is a great tool to learn how to use. Done right, the surface can be smoother than sanding.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If it`s your planer and you can slow it down that helps with the ripples. Otherwise it`s a lot of sanding or a combination like Stick suggested.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Thanks for that Stick and Phil.

Using a smoothing plane, won't the shavings removed start to alter the dimensions of the work piece? Or on the original do I allow a couple of mm to allow for this?

I've been reading about palm random orbital sanders and the air powered type. Then using sand paper to remove any little squiggles left from that to get to the required finish?
Cheers.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

sanded, scraped or hand plane it's still material removed...


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> If it`s your planer and you can slow it down that helps with the ripples. Otherwise it`s a lot of sanding or a combination like Stick suggested.


and the planer with razor sharp knives and all properly set up


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

I know little about planes, No 5, 6 etc. What size, type of smoothing plane would I be wanting for a door stile say 100mm wide x 40mm deep? Is a smoothing plane suitable for cleaning up the edge too? Just looking I've seen 22 inch long smoothing planes, that wouldn't do.
Thanks.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Gaia said:


> I know little about planes, No 5, 6 etc. What size, type of smoothing plane would I be wanting for a door stile say 100mm wide x 40mm deep? Is a smoothing plane suitable for cleaning up the edge too? Just looking I've seen 22 inch long smoothing planes, that wouldn't do.
> Thanks.


Veritas® Low-Angle Smooth Plane - Lee Valley Tools


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

PhilBa said:


> Probably the best way to avoid snipe is to use a sacrificial piece of wood ahead and behind the actual one(s). Also, if you have multiple pieces, over lap them through the planer. So feed the lead in sacrifice, then your pieces, then the tail end sacrifice all in one uninterrupted stream.
> 
> Also, a scraper is a great tool to learn how to use. Done right, the surface can be smoother than sanding.


Do you mean a continuous length of timber under the board I want to plane, extending out the front and rear of the board? Or are you saying just a short section under each end of the board, extending a bit from the ends of the board?
Thanks.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

That will help with snipe but it may not help much with the ripples. A segmented head would probably be the best way of getting rid of them. Slowing the feed speed as I suggested will help some. A very light finish pass may help some too.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> Veritas® Low-Angle Smooth Plane - Lee Valley Tools


I'm familiar with Veritas tools they have a reputation for being high quality and also being very expensive. Even if I had the money I wouldn't buy one at such a high price. 

In the UK that plane is around £250!

The Draper brand of tools in the UK has a long established reputation for quality and sensible price.
This Draper smoothing plane is very reasonable priced, has wooden handles. I know about you get what you pay for, bla, bla but not always the case.

This Draper plane is buy now on Ebay UK for £22.87 see Ebay UK item number 171861274455. Is not low angle but is that crucial?
The plane is available on Amazon UK a little cheaper including free delivery, has a load of very positive reviews!
Cheers.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> If it`s your planer and you can slow it down that helps with the ripples. Otherwise it`s a lot of sanding or a combination like Stick suggested.


Hi Charles,
I have a home workshop type of planer/thicknesser as well as my Dewalt 633 thicknesser that can thickness 13inch wide boards.
My planer/thicknesser is the Metabo HC 260C got the wheel stand for it to, quite easy to move..... now
The Metabo is a clone of the Electa Beckum, itself had very positive reviews. I don't know if can get a segmented upgrade cutter block for it. Though in any case think will carry on with it as is. Unless they are available and at a reasonable price.


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## Holic46 (Dec 2, 2009)

For my work I usually use relatively short boards therefore lots of snipes on both ends. After reducing the board to required thickness, I run the boards several times through the thicknesser, both ends and both sides, without adjusting the thicknesser. This does not removes the snipes completely but considerably reduce the snipes, therefore less sanding.
P.S. - I am metalworker and don't know how to use hand plane.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Holic46 said:


> For my work I usually use relatively short boards therefore lots of snipes on both ends. After reducing the board to required thickness, I run the boards several times through the thicknesser, both ends and both sides, without adjusting the thicknesser. This does not removes the snipes completely but considerably reduce the snipes, therefore less sanding.
> P.S. - I am metalworker and don't know how to use hand plane.


OK thanks.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Gaia said:


> Do you mean a continuous length of timber under the board I want to plane, extending out the front and rear of the board? Or are you saying just a short section under each end of the board, extending a bit from the ends of the board?
> Thanks.


Feed the first board in. Before it is out, feed the next board, before that is out, feed the next and so on. Always have several boards under the planer head. This prevents a fair amount of snipe. Just the first and last in the train get snipe and if those are sacrificial, no harm done.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

All great points and all work. The lazy way out is to run all your boards longer than required and then cut off the sniped ends.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

PhilBa said:


> Feed the first board in. Before it is out, feed the next board, before that is out, feed the next and so on. Always have several boards under the planer head. This prevents a fair amount of snipe. Just the first and last in the train get snipe and if those are sacrificial, no harm done.


OK I'm with you, thanks.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

JFPNCM said:


> All great points and all work. The lazy way out is to run all your boards longer than required and then cut off the sniped ends.


Expensive but good for the woodburner.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

PhilBa said:


> Feed the first board in. Before it is out, feed the next board, before that is out, feed the next and so on. Always have several boards under the planer head. This prevents a fair amount of snipe. Just the first and last in the train get snipe and if those are sacrificial, no harm done.


OK thanks I'm with you now. Would a roller at the in feed and out feed help too?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Gaia said:


> OK thanks I'm with you now. Would a roller at the in feed and out feed help too?


yes


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

stick486 said:


> yes


ok.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> Veritas® Low-Angle Smooth Plane - Lee Valley Tools


I bought the Draper smoothing plane I laid it on the cabinet saws cast iron bed. The sole of the plane was not flat had a pronounced wobble from side to side. I returned for full refund, " item not as described."

Someone suggested, Qiangsheng as a serious alternative to Veritas etc.

" Based in China, Qiangsheng are experts in their field of hand plane manufacture. Using a combination of traditional and modern manufacturing processes along with tried and trusted designs, they produce planes that offer exceptional quality. Since their arrival in 2005 they have established themselves as the serious alternative to the premium plane brands from North America. Their attention to detail in the finishing process is in our opinion second to none and the weight and balance ratio is of the highest level. Qiangsheng planes are an exceptionally popular choice with discerning woodworkers and cabinetmakers throughout the world. 

This excellent No 4 smoothing plane features a fully stress relieved steel body allowing it to remain true throughout its entire working life. Precision machined to exacting tolerances ensures the sole of the plane is flat, the wings are square to the sole and there is a perfect fit between the plane body and frog. Measuring 51mm wide, the high carbon steel blade is tempered and hardened to Rc 60-64 meaning this blade will sharpen to and retain a razor sharp edge." 

I bought one and came yesterday. Another chap said they would have preferred a Qiangsheng No 5 jack plane, would this be better for handling the long edge face sections of the stiles and rails

Or will this Qiangsheng No 4 Smoothing Plane be all I need to remove any planer ripple, machining marks from interior,exterior house doors. The faces of the rails and stiles also the edge faces of both. Perhaps the Qiangsheng No 5 jack would be more versatile?
Cheers.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Just to clarify, it appears the Wood River planes are made by the same company.
What's new in the world of premium planes part 1: the Made in China group - Popular Woodworking Magazine


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