# House repairs



## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

We bought this house in July 2002, so 7years later I find this kind of nonsense. Makes me wonder what else is going to be a problem. The first couple pics will show the problem. This door faces north and never gets sun on it and the problem just showed through earlier this year when I was painting the jam and such. When I got into it yesterday I was surprised at the extent of the damage. 

Solution, replace the door (cost 450.00) buy materials to repair the door (cost 25.00)? I vote the 25.00 and get to justify to "wife unit" why we have all that stuff in the new shop downstairs. I have decided to laminate my own materials from 3/4 X 4 cedars. Someone told me once cedar doesn't rot as fast as other stuff, price was right and it allows more of that justification thing.

Pic 1 shows the extent of the damage at top. (I know why and that will be part of the fix.) Pics 2, 3, and 4 two more damaged areas. Pics 5 and 6 materials to use for the repair and finally pics 7 and 8 gluing up the cedar for the repair. Today I will begin to fabricate needed parts and make first repair. Rain tomorrow so I need to fix the problem at the gutter and roof.

For some reason I really enjoy doing this kind of repair work. Sick I guess. 

I really enjoy the new shop this table is fantastic. Only down side of new shop is that there are more places to loose stuff and then try to find what's been lost!! I'll somehow live with it.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Jerry,

Looks like you have your work cut out for you.... they just don't build them like they used to or should. Don't worry about the rain tomorrow.... looks like only a 20% chance of a stray shower and that rarely ever happens.

Shop is looking good and about done. I need to get over and see it, maybe later this week I can give you a call if my vision and meds straigten up.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Bob said:


> Hi Jerry,
> 
> Looks like you have your work cut out for you.... they just don't build them like they used to or should. Don't worry about the rain tomorrow.... looks like only a 20% chance of a stray shower and that rarely ever happens.
> 
> Shop is looking good and about done. I need to get over and see it, maybe later this week I can give you a call if my vision and meds straigten up.


Sounds good come over any time just call make sure I am here


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Jerry,
is your house on a slab or crawlspace? if crawlspace, you may need an expert to go under your house and check the sills. the sills need to be carefully inspected. cosmetic damage as you have shown is easily corrected, but real damage can be very serious. i have seen many with sill damage and it can get lots worse! i am expert at inspection of sills, but dont replace them , lol

it also looks as if your front door is against a bumpout of the main structure. if this is the case, im afraid you will be faced with the same problems a few years from now. you may need to think of altering your front entrance a little bit.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

levon said:


> hi Jerry,
> is your house on a slab or crawlspace? if crawlspace, you may need an expert to go under your house and check the sills. the sills need to be carefully inspected. cosmetic damage as you have shown is easily corrected, but real damage can be very serious. i have seen many with sill damage and it can get lots worse! i am expert at inspection of sills, but dont replace them , lol
> 
> it also looks as if your front door is against a bumpout of the main structure. if this is the case, im afraid you will be faced with the same problems a few years from now. you may need to think of altering your front entrance a little bit.


Well we are actually over a basement and the door is in a small alcove type thing. The main roof comes down to the gable over the garage and into a gutter. This gutter dumps onto the garage gable roof and runs down against the house to the gable gutter. There is a small place where the water misses the next gutter and runs down right onto the door. And being the door is north and never gets the sun it doesn't dry out when we have a rainy spell. I have a fix for the water missing gable gutter. I will put an angle diverter out from the house about 2 to 3 feet using cedar and mastic sealant. It might run over it times but not often. I will closely monitor it in the future and do what needs to be done. Those areas at the base of the door and window are because it was never calked where the wood met the sill and now I am paying for it!

Pic 1 is repair pieces; Pic 2 repair in place; Pic 3 front door; Pic 4 & 5 Front of house.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Got all the pieces back together today, supposed to rain tomorrow. I'll do the next two places when the weather is nice again. All the pics are of the project the #2 is where the problem is, water would come down from the roof and not get cough, well I put a diverter on the roof forcing the water away from this end of the gutter. 

Fix two more spots and I will have it done and can get back to the shop and do something interesting.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice job Jerry



========



xplorx4 said:


> Got all the pieces back together today, supposed to rain tomorrow. I'll do the next two places when the weather is nice again. All the pics are of the project the #2 is where the problem is, water would come down from the roof and not get cough, well I put a diverter on the roof forcing the water away from this end of the gutter.
> 
> Fix two more spots and I will have it done and can get back to the shop and do something interesting.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Piece of cake hey Jerry? Good job.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Can't even tell it was repaired Jerry. Great job.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thank you all for your comments. Sometimes these repairs turn out and sometimes, well, they don't. I think I will take some pics of the house in the rear and post, I would love to see any one's shop from the outside. I have seen Bob's and it is as neat in real life as it was in the pics. We are blessed because when we built the house we got to tell them how many trees we wanted left. We wanted all we could keep in the back yard. While our yard is not all that big it has the sense of being secluded due to the trees on both sides and the rear.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

You have a beautiful home Jerry and you did a great job.


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

I agree with Dan, that is a pretty house you have and a great repair job.
Myself, I really don't like fixing others mistakes, but it really does bring satisfaction to see it in good shape again.

~Julie~


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I think I may be an anomaly, because I enjoy fixing stuff like that. I like to reconditions furniture or refinish as needed. I have so far to go in getting to where I want to be, but I will not quit it is just too much fun!! Weird huh?? Well I have never been accused of being normal anyway.




Julie said:


> I agree with Dan, that is a pretty house you have and a great repair job.
> Myself, I really don't like fixing others mistakes, but it really does bring satisfaction to see it in good shape again.
> 
> ~Julie~


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

If the weather is good today and it is supposed to be, I will start the next part of this repair. I'll keep ya'll posted


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Phase 2 Left side*

Started the repair of the left side bottom of the door. This is not nearly as bad as I thought; I used the same technique as the other side upper right.

Photos:
1 & 2: What the damage looked like before I started.

3. Getting the worse of the rot out and being sure to get to some solid wood. I could have taken more but the wood was solid behind on the left and on the right much more and I would have taken all the structure out.

4. Using wood Bond I filled in like a tooth filling, well sort of!?

5. Right side repair in place.

6 & 7 main post repair ready to bond, spackle and stand.

8 & 9 Sanding done ready to paint 

10. Primed with kilz2 .

I will repaint all of it when repairs are done. Started to sprinkle as I finished up.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Good job Jerry.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Nice job Jerry you can't tell it was worked on.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great job, Jerry.

Are you able to look into the cause of the problem to see if it can be eliminated or lessened? for the future?

James


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

jw2170 said:


> Great job, Jerry.
> 
> Are you able to look into the cause of the problem to see if it can be eliminated or lessened? for the future?
> 
> James


I see two main problems, one is the areas were not properly calked and weather sealed. Another is the door faces north and is shielded from the sun by the rest of the house. A third problem was me not keeping after it until it nearly got out of hand. What I must do is go through the entire porch and everything to make sure it is weather tight, or replace it and make it so. I have the one last area that I want to get done before June 21st when we leave for Houston and our son's wedding.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

I install a lot of these types of door sets and see this kind of problem, frequently. A lot of the blame can be put on the original manufacture of the door set. There is no way a piece of finger-jointed SPF that is poorly sealed and minimally finished to stand up to usual weather conditions. The aluminum sill panel tends to keep any moisture right at the bottom of the jambs and that is the first place of failure. 
A big Atta-boy to Jerry for getting on the problem and fixing it masterfully. Keep it up, Jerry, and I might have to extend you an employment offer .


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Xplorx4
I can't make out the 1st pic well enough to see the problem there, however, the 2nd and 3rd pics are obvious. The problem isn't with the materials, especially if they were primed and painted prior to install unless its a veneer or the lumber has been covered with vinyl siding. 

The problem is the bottom of the vertical trim is in contact with the threshold; always been a bad idea. The door is also at an inside corner which hampers air flow. 

The pics don't show it but for the most part damage like that usually accompanies mass plantings/shrubbery, decks and or prefab platforms that sit tight under the threshold, etc. They also retain moisture in the area by hampering air movement. 
Add a constant snow load during the winter, (allows water to sublimate up into the nooks and crannies to be absorbed).

The cedar rule as far as I can remember relates to "in ground" compared to other soft woods. Cypress has always been best for fence posts and such.

You don't mention and the pics don't show the soil conditions, loamy soil retains more water closer to the surface than sandy soil or stone.

There are many ways to protect your investment for the future with pre install prep and maintenance.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Ronald,

i dont think Jerry has a constant snow load in Atlanta Ga. and the vertical trim is not a problem in most cases here. i as a person certified in wood rot and wood destroying organisms. think Jerry states his problem correctly. this area of his home doesnt get enough sun to even dry the morning dew, let alone the rainy conditions. this area is also and MOST IMPORTANTLY beside a bumpout that is the main problem !
if Jerry brought his front door area out even with the bumout, his problems would be reduced by as much as 1/4 of the damage and time.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Ghidrah said:


> Xplorx4
> I can't make out the 1st pic well enough to see the problem there, however, the 2nd and 3rd pics are obvious. The problem isn't with the materials, especially if they were primed and painted prior to install unless its a veneer or the lumber has been covered with vinyl siding.
> 
> 
> ...


That was my problem also it wasn't obvious that the damage was as bad as it turned out to be because it just wasn't obvious.

The door sits on a raised porch and trust me not many plants in my yard touch the house! That is a pet peeve of mine. I try to keep all plants cut back so I can walk between the house and the shrub or tree.

The area under the deck is concrete as is the sidewalk and landing of the front deck. 

This is a frequent problem in this subdivision, Even thought I was evolved with the building from the time we chose the lot and floor plan to closing. I caught some things but missed on a few critical items that I will be paying for in maintained in the future. I suppose I could get ahead of the curve and take preemptive strikes now, and I just may do that in the mean while, the plan is to get my son married over in Galveston/Houston area and get the work shop done before I start too many projects and just let the last 12% go unfinished. Not acceptable.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Levon,

I'm not trying to be confrontational, however, even though snow isn't an issue and plantings aren't closing in around the door moisture retention due to stagnant air is.

I don't have a degree in rot, but I got something as good, I've been in the construction trade for 31 yrs. Outside of new construction, (not much of that lately) a big chunk of my time is spent in repairs, i.e., rot and insect damage. 

Jerry says he has a slab in the area, it absorbs moisture at a snails pace leaving it exposed to stagnant air. Last yr I replaced an attached open car port, the posts and roof were rotten, because the concrete slab under it sagged in the middle creating a pond. If the owner hadn't planted a chain link fence with rose bushes and shrubs, (nearly 10 plus feet away) and her neighbors trees weren't so over grown much of it could have been avoided. She lived on a hill.

The major rot points are always where horizontal and vertical planes intersect. Whether its cedar shingles or trim, dormers, decks, window sills, concrete slabs and garages. Anywhere the moisture is retained for extended periods the wood loses.

It's in an inside corner on the dark side of the house. Any fences gates or shrubs blocking air movement even if their 15+' away?

Ice/water barrier works very well in high moisture areas, One of the best things you can do to eliminate rot near the ground is to elevate the material a 1/4" off whatever it is abutting. This allows even the slightest wind to blow out debris like sand, leaf mold and animal fur. All things that retain water.

Jerry you might want to check the box, sub floor, underlayment and sheathing under the threshold


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

no offense taken, you make great points, especially about trees shrubbery etc cutting off valuable air that dries out wood. 

in the same vein, a bumpout that is next to it cuts off air and sun to an area. i guess 10 people would have 10 different views.

and that is good.

i think it is good to get different perspectives.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Actually thanks to both, I need all the help I can get. When digging down into the affected areas, I could see where things got wet, but at this point no rot, at this point!! As you will see on the next area, the damage went into the inside under the window. I removed more then I needed to just to be sure. If you go to the pics I took of the gutter just above this area you can see problem. I think it is that the gutter is not up against the house by about 1/2". (Pic 1) Above this is the main roof and where it runs down over the gable roof of the garage and the gutter dumps on the garage roof it would run down between the house and gutter thus soaking this area for the past 7 years. (Pic 2) I put a diverter up there to keep water away from the house and out over the roof and into the gable roof gutter. 

I think the next problem may lie in the area below the deck as you mentioned. I know the deck is about 24" above the slab they put down under it. I suppose for peace of mind or to get it before it gets me I need to pull up the deck boards and inspect the area below. That sounds like a fun time. :sarcastic: 

I worked for a year as a finish manager for a not to be named builder, bad houses is why I quit. I became an ICC certified combine building inspector and worked for a company called Burgess Construction Consultant inspecting all new construction homes for some well known builders in the Atlanta area. Before all that I was a Sr Project manager for a casework dealer in Houston and in Atlanta. One thing I know about this house is it does not have proper flashing around windows and doors. Had I known then what I know now I would have insisted on doing things differently.

Well I'm not there but here so deal with it. If the rot persists, I may well have to remove siding in the area and redo the door, flashing, and siding. Lord knows that sounds exciting!!! :sarcastic: 

Well I may pull this door in a few years anyway but in the mean time this repair will have to do. I do thank you both for your comments and suggestions some I can do some I cannot, but I thank you both anyway. As a matter of fact if you can think of some stop gap measures I would appreciate the input that is what the forum is all about.

On the right hand photo you can see the gutter above the door and the downspout dumping onto the garage gable. Then in the first photo you can see the gap between the gutter and house.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Almost done---finally*

The adventure continues into deeper and darker places of rot! 
Pic 1 the surface stuff
Pic 2 the extent of the damage
Pic 3 on the inside
Pic 4 effected material removed
Pic 5-8 the fabricated repair pieces together on the bench
Pic 9-11 putting it together
Pic 12 looks good inside
Pic 13 seal it up
Pic 14 sanded and painted 
Pic 15 how it looks from the sidewalk

I hope this explains itself, my wife just called me to dinner! I will finish the rest on the door on Monday; plan is done before we leave for Texas!!

Best that I can tell the rot did not get into the sub floor and structure. I will need in the fall pull up the deck boards and examine some areas below. If I find a problem, I'll just fix it and take measures to be sure that it does not return. 

This has been fun, it is fun to fix things that are broken. Now we will see how it all holds up.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

That is amazing Jerry. Very well done.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Jerry,

You've done a very wonderful job on your house repair. 

To add to what Ron and Levon comments, wood & or metal should never touch concrete unless some sort of barrier is used. If my memory is serving me correctly, today, they're using some sort of membrane to avoid such contact. Techniques change so much these days, difficult to keep up with it.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> Jerry,
> 
> You've done a very wonderful job on your house repair.
> 
> To add to what Ron and Levon comments, wood & or metal should never touch concrete unless some sort of barrier is used. If my memory is serving me correctly, today, they're using some sort of membrane to avoid such contact. Techniques change so much these days, difficult to keep up with it.


When I frame basements I have used a thin foam layer between the concrete floor and the wood.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

In Georgia you must use treated lumber when in contact with concrete. If it is not treated i.e. a stair stringer you must have a barrier of some sort. Here we use the foam also but more for insulation i.e. keep wind out!! It is 2:57 and I cannot thing of the word I want, but you know what I mean. To seal the sill, how’s that??

I will still need one more post and that will be when I finish the inside and put everything is its place.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Jerry,

One thing I do like about US housing is the use of timber clad walls.

This does seem to add a touch of design to the house.

Not like the brick boxes they insist in building in Sydney.

There is a new 'weatherboard' house I pass on the way to work and it does look a picture - just like yours.

James


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

jw2170 said:


> Jerry,
> 
> One thing I do like about US housing is the use of timber clad walls.
> 
> ...


I have yet to see a 600 year old Timber house James :yes4:

Stone and brick cost a little more but in the long run is more economical and less maintenance than wood. I guess growing up in the Ottawa Valley the Stone Masons who worked on the Rideau Canal decided to settle down after finishing the canal. For me Stone is the way to go because of its durability and character.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

The inside is nearly done except for the trim pieces. These will have to be made from scratch. It is an ogee trim problem will be getting the right size. Sorry the one is blurred, that is what happens when you go from near sighted to far sighted. Thursday I will be seeing the doc re glasses for the reading part. For now I use Honey's reading glasses and they sort of work if you know what I mean. The final paint inside will be this week because I have some touch up to do in the shop. I will also be takeing a swing at the trim. I may have to replace it all just to make it match. Never did this before so it will be interesting.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I thank you for your compliment. The irony is most folks here would prefer the brick. In fact my house is vinyl sided, I chose that because I fingered I would rather put the money into structural changes thinking if need be I could always change the exterior after the fact. We did things like the basement garage and bumping the up garage out 3', do the basement plumbing for sewer, consisting of the drain and the sump basin. There were a few other changes that added about 8-10,000.00 to the house when it was built. Another siding used is "Hardy plank" basically a cement siding needing little or no maintained other than paint to make it look good,


jw2170 said:


> Jerry,
> 
> One thing I do like about US housing is the use of timber clad walls.
> 
> ...


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> I thank you for your compliment. The irony is most folks here would prefer the brick. In fact my house is vinyl sided, I chose that because I fingered I would rather put the money into structural changes thinking if need be I could always change the exterior after the fact. We did things like the basement garage and bumping the up garage out 3', do the basement plumbing for sewer, consisting of the drain and the sump basin. There were a few other changes that added about 8-10,000.00 to the house when it was built. Another siding used is "Hardy plank" basically a cement siding needing little or no maintained other than paint to make it look good,


A friend of mine used Hardy Board on the exterior and he liked the results. You have o use a special blade to cut the stuff.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Basically it is cement so you need to use a cut off blade of sorts. You can shoot special nails through the stuff but I believe you have to predrill of you are going to hand nail. You must also be careful not to nail to tightly, the stuff will break.

The say the stuff is maintain ace free but it has to be painted just for the color and cleaned down here in GA. Ya your house will grow moss on the north side down here requiring a power wash every so often. Same with vinyl except for the paint.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

James Hardie siding is pretty good stuff, especially for some areas of the world where salt, humidity, or termites are present. I particularly like the look of their wood shake design.
If you're thinking about using it, be aware of a few drawbacks:Cost-it is probably double that of vinyl or wood lap siding, maintenance-It needs to be painted, at some time, just like wood, weight-It is heavy so framing and backer boards have to be planned.

Since it is cementitious and hence, doesn't allow for much wall cavity humidity exchange, humidity in wall cavities can be a problem. This is especially true if a leak is present somewhere in the building envelope. A recent case of this problem turned up in my area. The owner/contractor installed Hardie Plank on a multi-level house facing a lakeshore. The prevailing weather, combined with poor sealing of window and door openings promoted wall cavity water problems. Mold ensued and the upshot was removal of the siding and replacement, removal of all doors and windows and replacement, removal and replacement of interior wall surfaces (sheetrock), removal and replacement of insulation, and treatment of wall cavities for mold abatement. I don't know what the final bill was for all of this but I know it was more than the price of my modest house. 

I will be replacing the siding on our house, this summer, and have chosen cedar shakes. I was weighing the differences between wood and Hardie, but the advantages of cement don't add up to justify the additional expense or potential for future humidity problems. YMMV.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi fellas,

i used the hardi-panel to build my shop. it works great. it is heavy, especially the panels (4x8) and you have to double up on the studs where the panels meet. as far as nailing i used regular zc nails and set my pc framing nailer to just set the nails deep enough to put a dab of caulk over them. at that depth they are tightly nailed and i had no problem with any breaking. 

the hardipanel is sealed and with the density, moisture cant come thru it, so if you dont have a major leak problem you are in good shape. my shop is open stud inside with no sheetrock. and there are no water lines run in it. 

the best part is when you paint it , with no moisture coming thru it, it wont peel and will last forever. regular plywood siding wouldnt last very long in my situation.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Jerry,

ive seen you state problems with mildew on the north side several times. we do have a lot of problems here in my section with mildew, but there is no certain wall affected. the wall usually affected has some blockage of the morning sun. but can be any wall. trees shrubbery and vegetation are the most likely causes, not the orientation of the wall.

also, vinyl siding has a more substantial problem with mildew for some reason, possible condensation.

i wasnt trying to sound know-it-all or lecturing, but know that north walls dont usually grow mildew unless drying is obstructed. my north wall has no mildew.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Levon

One main advantage of the cement board AKA hardie cement board is its Fire Resistance. In my city we have had numerous major fires that started out as a single family dwelling and quickly spread to large conflagrations. The major contributing factor for the quick fire spread is the use of Vinyl siding. 

I have used it in the past and found it fades with the sun and looks like crap in about 10 years. Personally I would never build my own house with it for the reason I have stated. But as a firefighter the cost of cement board brick or stone or some other fire resistance covering is relatively cheap after you see you house burn down and others around you. So in retrospect the extra cost doesn't seem to be that much if you consider replacing a home and all of its belongings and the time to rebuild.

Everyone thinks it will not happen to them but statistically it may be slim but when it hits boy does it strike a nerve in your family.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Dan,

your absolutely right, i lost a house to a fire and know the devastation. i have seen vinyl that in our hot weather is so rippled and cant keep out the moisture due to the rippling. 

i would never use a vinyl siding nor an older version, aluminum siding. it does fade and does look like crap in a short while. 

i honestly think that homes are sold more to people that know little of real building knowledge and are promoted for their size and looks.

i fully agree that stone, brick , and cement siding are the way to go. in our area of the country, brick is my first choice if i were building. they are the fastest sellars in our soft housing market and always look great.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Ok now I have to get you to try some Sushi.... its healthy with lots of Omega 3's


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Dan, 

im a very plain person, like plain food and worry if i ate sushi i might start to sashay around,lol.

i am a real seafood lover, but enjoy it fried grilled boiled or broiled. and i am use to the seafood that is harvested here and in florida. grouper, snapper, amberjack, shrimp, oysters, flounder etc.

i dont care for tuna or salmon at all.

like i said just love the basics.

but there is nothing wrong if you do like sushi or salmon or tuna. we all have different tastes.

growing up, i loved mullet. it was cheap and my mother stretched the money far as she could. i guess i ate so many back then, i cant eat them anymore.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Ya its all good your lucky to have access to all that fresh seafood. I used to live on the West Coast growing up and sure took advantage of the fresh seafood. 

But I have ssaid enough and this thread is about house repairs so we better get back on track.


P.S.
Growing up I wished I could grow a Mullet!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Well all I know is every house in out subdivision at one time or anouther has moss or someother green junk growing on the north side of the house. It shows up on decks on the north side to some degree. We have it on our deck on the south side where it is shaded. 

Some houses may be shaded some what on the north side but most are just open but catch little sun on that side. Our house catches almost no sun light on the north side. Well no mind, it is what it is and move on from there to bigger and better things.




levon said:


> hi Jerry,
> 
> ive seen you state problems with mildew on the north side several times. we do have a lot of problems here in my section with mildew, but there is no certain wall affected. the wall usually affected has some blockage of the morning sun. but can be any wall. trees shrubbery and vegetation are the most likely causes, not the orientation of the wall.
> 
> ...


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

The problem with houses being close together and fire damage, point well taken. In this subdivision the houses are 50 to 100' apart so danger is not quite as much. Yes well moving right along, got the inside painted so I can replace the curtain there. I will get the trim after the wedding, 10 days to go!! The trim seems to be an ogee but the bit I have is not the same as they used. When I get back I will tackle that, it will be good practice for a restoration coming up in the fall.




TRN_Diesel said:


> Ya its all good your lucky to have access to all that fresh seafood. I used to live on the West Coast growing up and sure took advantage of the fresh seafood.
> 
> But I have ssaid enough and this thread is about house repairs so we better get back on track.
> 
> ...


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