# Sash Corner Bridle Joint & T Bridle Joint



## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

I'm making my own replacement windows. I got an old one from a builders rubbish skip, from looking at it I understood now, how the cill and window board were made and jointed.
I'm very new to wood working and routers I hardly know anything about either.

Looking at the window I found in the skip, I see the actual window frame joints are corner bridle joints also called slot mortise and tenon. I thought at first they were called mortise and tenon joints.

If you look at the attached picture of window frame 
For want of a better term, the central dividing stile? It seems logical to me, follows that this would be jointed to the main window frame with T bridle joints. Would the large sash on the right been jointed with corner bridle joints too? The same with the small oblong sash at the top left?
Cheers.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Hope it's ok I rework your picture so we can all see what you are talking about.

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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> Hope it's ok I rework your picture so we can all see what you are talking about.
> 
> ======


No problem, the actual window is one I saw on Ebay, not the old single glazed garage one I fished out of a skip. That window I took a load of photos of with the dimensions marked on it. Sort of had the idea to use it as a starting point, template.

Had a problem with puter had to reformat the whole drive, I wiped the pictures, could kick myself for that 

I do remember though, the main frame had corner bridle joints and I think a T bridle joint in the center dividing stile. ( if that is the correct name ). The main frame had a rebate set into it, where the sash fitted. ( Again I think these are the correct terms, I've looked into what the componant parts of the variouis styles are called, still not sure  )

The ebay window frame has a rebate too. From what I've seen, I think I'm right, sometimes the actual sash has a rebate and not the window frame.

In my upload of the window, I'm wondering about the joint, there is a rebate on the main frame. I seem to recollect the skip window had a rebate too but used a corner bridle joint, which was plain to see.

I did a search on haunched bridle joint and got a few results, didn't have time to look into it in depth, perhaps the joint in the Ebay window is a haunched corner bridle joint? Whatever the type of joint used, what ways could it be made? With regard to the equipment I have at the moment.
I got the seller to send me several pictures of the window, but the corner has a card cover and can't see the joint.
Thanks.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

The bridle joints are not easy on the router table but with the fixture below it's easy, you can also use the tools you have on hand like a power saw or hand saw and chisel.

You can and buy the fixture just about anywhere or you can make your own..


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> The bridle joints are not easy on the router table but with the fixture below it's easy, you can also use the tools you have on hand like a power saw or hand saw and chisel.
> 
> ...


Regards tenoning jig, a few weeks ago I managed to get on Ebay, an as new copy of the Woodsmith Series, Custom Woodworking Shop - Built Jigs & Fixtures at a really good price. See attached picture of jig.

The Triton 2000 Workcentre has a non standard size mitre slot. The jig designs runner was modified by someone, so the jig runs fine in the Triton. Regards cutting the bridles open mortise, what would be the best way for me to remove the waste block between the two cuts?
Cheers


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

For me I do it in one pass of the saw blade(s), I stack up more than one blade ,for the female part of the joint.. and also for the male part of the joint, most of the time I use 6 1/2" to 7 1/2" diam.blades for the stack up..because I can get them in the states for song, the normal price in the states is 1.50 ea. you could call it a low end dado setup but the blades always cut the flat true slot unlike most dado blade set ups..plus the blades are locked in place... 

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Gaia said:


> Regards tenoning jig, a few weeks ago I managed to get on Ebay, an as new copy of the Woodsmith Series, Custom Woodworking Shop - Built Jigs & Fixtures at a really good price. See attached picture of jig.
> 
> The Triton 2000 Workcentre has a non standard size mitre slot. The jig designs runner was modified by someone, so the jig runs fine in the Triton. Regards cutting the bridles open mortise, what would be the best way for me to remove the waste block between the two cuts?
> Cheers


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Gaia said:


> Regards cutting the bridles open mortise, what would be the best way for me to remove the waste block between the two cuts?
> Cheers


After you make your outside cuts just move the table saw fence to remove waste. You can also get a dado set & do it in one pass. The better sets will leave a nice flat square bottom.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> For me I do it in one pass of the saw blade(s), I stack up more than one blade ,for the female part of the joint.. and also for the male part of the joint, most of the time I use 6 1/2" to 7 1/2" diam.blades for the stack up..because I can get them in the states for song, the normal price in the states is 1.50 ea. you could call it a low end dado setup but the blades always cut the flat true slot unlike most dado blade set ups..plus the blades are locked in place...
> 
> ======


Hi Bob,
Thanks, can't use dado blades in the Triton.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

jlord said:


> After you make your outside cuts just move the table saw fence to remove waste. You can also get a dado set & do it in one pass. The better sets will leave a nice flat square bottom.


Cheers,
As I mentioned to Bob the Triton, won't accept dado blades. Your idea will work fine I expect, though I think I'll need to clean up by hand.
Peter.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

Let me ask why not ? almost all table saws have a plate that cover the blade it's easy to make your own cover plate so you can use a wider set of blades..

Here's shot of Harry's funny Triton table saw and it looks like if you remove the gray cover plate you will have the room.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...33839-my-router-haven-photo-tour-before-3.jpg

Just asking how do you cut a 45 deg.cut on your table saw,most need the room to pitch the blade over..like on a 6" wide board.

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Gaia said:


> Hi Bob,
> Thanks, can't use dado blades in the Triton.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Let me ask why not ? almost all table saws have a plate that cover the blade it's easy to make your own cover plate so you can use a wider set of blades..
> 
> ...


I appreciate the sense in what your saying. Unfortunately the blade rides in a slot, see attatched. The Triton 2000 uses an inverted circular saw.
Cheers.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Gaia said:


> I appreciate the sense in what your saying. Unfortunately the blade rides in a slot, see attatched. The Triton 2000 uses an inverted circular saw.
> Cheers.


For the benefit of Bj and possibly other members, here are a few shots that should answer a few questions. I've mentioned on a number of occasions that every year when I visit the Perth wood show I become tempted to buy a Jet saw table, but manage to restrain myself when I realise what a versatile piece of equipment the Triton really is and what an accurate job it does once the initial set-up has been correctly completed. A great deal of thought has been given to the design. Note that the saw is 3.25hp


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks for the info Harry

That's a very strange table saw  now I see why you use your RAS all the time..


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harrysin said:


> For the benefit of Bj and possibly other members, here are a few shots that should answer a few questions. I've mentioned on a number of occasions that every year when I visit the Perth wood show I become tempted to buy a Jet saw table, but manage to restrain myself when I realise what a versatile piece of equipment the Triton really is and what an accurate job it does once the initial set-up has been correctly completed. A great deal of thought has been given to the design. Note that the saw is 3.25hp


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

harrysin said:


> For the benefit of Bj and possibly other members, here are a few shots that should answer a few questions. I've mentioned on a number of occasions that every year when I visit the Perth wood show I become tempted to buy a Jet saw table, but manage to restrain myself when I realise what a versatile piece of equipment the Triton really is and what an accurate job it does once the initial set-up has been correctly completed. A great deal of thought has been given to the design. Note that the saw is 3.25hp


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Thanks for the info Harry
> 
> That's a very strange table saw  now I see why you use your RAS all the time..
> 
> ...


You're spot on regarding the radial arm saw Bob, that's why I had to think before flipping the saw over for the demo. However, having said that, most members don't have the luxury of a RAS and so because the change in mode on the Triton is so fast that it's "almost" as good. I hope that because I'm forever denigrating combination machines members don't think I've done an about face. The Triton as shown is NOT a combination machine, it's just a saw, and what a saw it is! As an aside, I bought mine straight after retirement in 2000, set it up, have done an enormous amount of work with mainly our rock hard Jarrah and yet it still has the original Triton blade which hasn't been re-sharpened and I've never had to carry out any adjustments. Cutting end grain leaves what looks like a planed surface.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Yes Harry, I am sorry I sold mine when I sild the Triton Router table....


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

That's another thing James, I have had both models of the Triton router table and achieved great results on the later more versatile one and have regretted selling it ever since.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Let me ask why not ? almost all table saws have a plate that cover the blade it's easy to make your own cover plate so you can use a wider set of blades..
> 
> ...


Um, thanks Bob, just read your reply,I will look into this a bit more, using dado blades could be quite handy, will ask Harry if had any experience on this and seek advice on the forum.
Cheers.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

jlord said:


> After you make your outside cuts just move the table saw fence to remove waste. You can also get a dado set & do it in one pass. The better sets will leave a nice flat square bottom.


He'd have difficulty using a dado set on a Triton. The Triton uses a portable circular saw, in my case a Hitachi C9U and the spindle would never take a dado set even were the gap wide enough in the top of the table.

I've made the same tenoning jig though and simply used hardwood runners rebated into the base to suit the width of the Triton slots. It was fun to make and way cheaper than any of the cast iron ones you see. It is also physically bigger, so more stable.


Hmm.. Only just realised how old this thread is.

Your table is newer than 2000 Harry. You've the later saw base that accomodates the raiser I bought and which won't work with my older base. You've also reminded me of the alternative mounting position for the top for cross cutting. I tend to forget about that,although in fairness, removing all the dust extraction to set it up tends to deter me.

The Triton is certainly very versatile and a clever design,even if fitting dado sets, even in crosscutting mode, is a non starter.

Cheers

Peter


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

istracpsboss said:


> He'd have difficulty using a dado set on a Triton. The Triton uses a portable circular saw, in my case a Hitachi C9U and the spindle would never take a dado set even were the gap wide enough in the top of the table.
> 
> I've made the same tenoning jig though and simply used hardwood runners rebated into the base to suit the width of the Triton slots. It was fun to make and way cheaper than any of the cast iron ones you see. It is also physically bigger, so more stable.
> 
> ...


Hi again Pete,
" I've made the same tenoning jig though and simply used hardwood runners rebated into the base to suit the width of the Triton slots. It was fun to make and way cheaper than any of the cast iron ones you see. It is also physically bigger, so more stable. "
I'll talk to you when I make mine. How accurate did you find it?


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