# End grain burn!!!



## dkneifel (Sep 23, 2008)

OK, here goes....I know this topic has had to be covered many times before but....

I am making a box out of Red Oak for the wifes Christmas gift.....all is going well, I got brass bushings to replace my old red plastic bushings and this has made my dovetails much much better.

My problem is making the base for the box. I used a 1x6 cut 1/2 inch deeper than the box size and 1 inch wider. The overhang I ran with a classic cove and bead bit. I took several passes instead of taking one big bite to reduce end grain burn......I still got a bit of burning at the start of one side and the end of the cut on the other side. 

Looks like a bit of sanding on this one too........you guys got any ideas for future projects I could try? I hate sanding and possibly messing up the detail of the cut.

Oh, the bit make is a Whiteside, I bought it when Woodcraft had their $5 bit sale a while back.......Thanks in advance for your suggestions


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

dkneifel said:


> My problem is making the base for the box. I used a 1x6 cut 1/2 inch deeper than the box size and 1 inch wider. The overhang I ran with a classic cove and bead bit. I took several passes instead of taking one big bite to reduce end grain burn......I still got a bit of burning at the start of one side and the end of the cut on the other side.


Hand held (with the bearing)? It's hard to go around corners without slowing down and burning the wood.

It's easier to use a fence on a router table (can be pieces of your favorite sheet goods, fixed base screwed directly to that, piece of lumber with bit clerance provided with a jig saw or Forstner bit, and a couple of C clamps) since you can cut each side individually without slowing down.

You can also use additional pieces of wood which abutt the work piece so you're not starting or slowing down on an edge that's important. Line up a piece on either side when you route the end grain - this will also prevent tear-out. Line up a piece on each end for the bearing to ride on as you leave the piece when you route it length wise.


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## dkneifel (Sep 23, 2008)

Drew Eckhardt said:


> Hand held (with the bearing)? It's hard to go around corners without slowing down and burning the wood.
> 
> It's easier to use a fence on a router table (can be pieces of your favorite sheet goods, fixed base screwed directly to that, piece of lumber with bit clerance provided with a jig saw or Forstner bit, and a couple of C clamps) since you can cut each side individually without slowing down.
> 
> You can also use additional pieces of wood which abutt the work piece so you're not starting or slowing down on an edge that's important. Line up a piece on either side when you route the end grain - this will also prevent tear-out. Line up a piece on each end for the bearing to ride on as you leave the piece when you route it length wise.


Ah Ha!!!! so its the speed the router is passing the wood huh.....You were right, hand held with a bearing.

The burn spots that I got were near the start and end of the cuts. These are the spots I would slow down as to not round the corner off.....

Thanks alot for the reply Drew....this is good info, I am learning as I go.


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