# Air Cylinder / Clamping Diagram



## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

Looking to get a few Air Cylinders to do some clamping.
Looking to do a setup to make it Primary / Secondary.

Need a diagram layout on how to route the lines.

Please by all means, correct me with a better layout.
Im stumped.

Thinking of a switch at each clamp too.
Dont want both operating same time when
one is needed or if I need to move one of them etc.
Foot pedal eventually, maybe.
Possible for independence would be novel.

Any takers? :wink:

See the attached PDF to get a better idea.

Thanks a batch.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Hmm, seems quite elaborate, just to clamp something. What do you plan on clamping, and how much pressure? I repurposed a caulking gun on a saw sled for a clamp. Worked like a charm, very inexpensive, don't know the pressure but it was capable of quite a more than needed, or desired, and adding another would have no problem. And so very little to go wrong.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Cylinders will generally act nearly in unison when operated in that configuration. There is almost always one cylinder favored over others because of small variations in the sysyem. In other words one cylinder may extend before another or others but as soon as pressure starts to build the rest of the system will equalize. The only way to isolate the operationof one from others is to install separate valves at every cylinder that control pressure or release of pressure.

By the way, under those circumstances you show there is no need for double acting cylinders. You might as well use single acting with a spring return since pressure will only be applied in one direction.


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## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

@Cherryville Chuck

Thank You .... I've been at this most of the day rackin me brains on it.
But I do see what you mean.

Could I still split the incoming air thru a "Y" to separate each. Wait for pressure of course.
I'll change down to single action like you mention.



> _By the way, under those circumstances you show there is no need for double acting cylinders. You might as well use single acting with a spring return since pressure will only be *applied in one direction*_


 @JOAT
:grin: Do you know that I have a caulking sitting right in front of me, well hanging on the wall.
Also, I've never given it thought of using one for a clamp. Hmmmf... those lil things that get ya.
I appreciate it tho but I'd like to press a button and wooo at the thump of the air powered pad
crashing down on some timber. Not get hand cranky with it. I will keep that in mind tho when
the times in need. And yes it is less exspensive.

Thanks again fellas


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Make sure the mounting mechanism you use for securing the cylinders are more than able to withstand the pressures generated by the cylinders themselves.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

MT Stringer did something similar for his Kreg pocket jig.

Modifying Kreg pocket hole jig


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

UglySign said:


> @Cherryville Chuck
> 
> Thank You .... I've been at this most of the day rackin me brains on it.
> But I do see what you mean.
> ...


Whether you need the regulator depends on #1 -compressor operating pressure; #2 -maximum allowable cylinder pressure; and #3 -whether you need to be able to modulate the amount of clamping pressure. If #2 or #3 require you regulate the air pressure then you are better off to regulate the incoming air supply. If you need different clamping pressures at each cylinder then you'll need separate valves at each cylinder. If not, as long as the cylinders share the same air supply all the cylinders should apply roughly similar clamping pressure even if the piston rods aren't extended equal lengths from one cylinder to the next (as in clamping a wedge for example). The amount of pressure applied should equal the psi times the cross sectional area of the piston in the cylinder in square inches.


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## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

boogalee said:


> MT Stringer did something similar for his Kreg pocket jig.
> Modifying Kreg pocket hole jig


 @TwoSkies57 Bill,
Using 1/8" & 1/4" aluminum tube for my adventures.
They're be secured to whatever surface I place them on.

@boogalee
Yes! I came across that one yesterday and will be trying it.
What do you think, I have the older original metal Kreg Pocket Jig.
I'll give that a shot too.

@Cherryville Chuck - Well we're going to find out. I'll be ordering a
bunch of things and see what works out. Nothing like finding forgotten
paypal $$$. If it doesnt work out then I have the stuff for other things.
If it does work out, then i'll do a detailed drawing and share.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Ronnie, While visiting Peachtree Woodworking several months ago, I saw this large tilting-table contraption with multiple air cylinders - the salesman told me it was manufactured by Kreg - it looked really super cool.

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

Well sure why not. I've put off pneumatic stuff too long. Usually intimidated
with all the parts etc. So I figured why not give it a try. From there I will say
the ideas are endless. After seeing many tube vids, theres a few things I'd
like to try and see what does/doesn't work. I'm assuming hydraulics works
the same way in a sense. Thats another intimidating animal in its own.

We shall find out. 



OPG3 said:


> Ronnie, While visiting Peachtree Woodworking several months ago, I saw this large tilting-table contraption with multiple air cylinders - the salesman told me it was manufactured by Kreg - it looked really super cool.
> 
> Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The main difference between hydraulics and pneumatics is the pressure medium. The other is that gasses are compressible and fluids are not considered to be. There may be some buffering in a gas operated system compared to a fluid operated system.


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