# First Benchtop Router Table, get a plate or go bare?



## silentblackhat (Nov 29, 2009)

Hey guys, my first post!

I am building a bench top router table and I have a question about what I should do about mounting the router. On some of the beginner tables I saw at Sears, they dont have any plate; they just routed some wood out from the bottom, then made a hole in the top and screwed the router base to the bottom. 

What im wondering is, should I use a plate? or should I do the same as what sears did? This is going to be my bench top router just for a little while so if I dont have to I dont want to spend too much on it. I dont have a router right now or a table saw to make the necessary cuts to make things like dovetail joints(i think thats what they are called) so when I get this first router setup, im going to make another table with those; this is just a starter table to get me going.

I saw that I can't post links till i get 10 posts so, the plan I have for a router table can be found by Googling "jeffgreefwoodworking benchrout". Should be the first one. Instead of that type of laminate top, im hoping to use 3/4 inch plywood or MDF. 

Thanks for your time!


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## silentblackhat (Nov 29, 2009)

Also, if I should go with an insert, can anyone direct me where to get a good one for the money?


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings and welcome to the router forum. Thank you for joining us. Get a router plate from Harbor Freight about 10.00+Ft . You can remove the entire router without trying to get under it. Just makes life easier.


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## Gap_308 (May 2, 2009)

welcome a board. heres a route r ( pun intended ):dirol:

Router Plates and Bases - Rockler

Router accessories

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

many more out there.


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## davcefai (Aug 3, 2009)

Not having a plate makes bit changes a major operation.

You can make your own plate from a plastic kitchen cutting board. Get one of those 8mm thick semi-rigid plastic ones and cut it to size. Cut the central hole and carefully drill the holes for the router attachment screws.

If you keep the size of the plate as small as possible it won't sag.

Note: you can score points with the cook in your life by swapping an old cutting board for a new one


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the forums sbh.


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## silentblackhat (Nov 29, 2009)

Thanks for all the suggestions. I found the Harbor Freight one last night so I ran to the store with only 3 minites till they closed aaaaaannnddd.........its an internet only item:-( lol just my luck. Ill see what I can find with regard to some cutting boards and if I cant find anything then I will order the harbor freight one.


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## violaine (Nov 30, 2009)

hello! i am from the philippines!

i am a newbie in this forum and currently building my rt.

my rt is simply a 16" x 36" laminated 3/4" mdf and fitted with a deluxe phenolic plate...i placed 2 x 2 underneath on all corners except at the left side so the front vise can grip it.

i chose this design coz the benchtop rt is too high for me (my wb height is 32") and my 3612c needs at least 14" table height...

now i am in the process of making the fence...is mdf good enough?

thanks


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## violaine (Nov 30, 2009)




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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Use a plate, you then get a greater depth of cut, without weakening the top.


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## DougA (Jan 30, 2008)

I built a table using a cutoff from a counter top, cut off the rear splash guard.
Mounted the router directly to the counter top and placed it on saw horses.
However, the depth of cut by mounting the router 3/4" down was an issue, so decided to use a plate. Made one from a kitchen cutting board as mentioned. However, I should have used a bigger cutting board as i need to remove the handles (1617EVS) to insert it. Drilled the router bit opening to size a template bushing. Also added a 3/4" plywood to base for more support, now that I cut a big hole into it. 
Other than being a bit too small, the cutting board is working fine, however, it has a slight bow to it. The cost however is almost the same as the Harbor Freight plate, which I didn't know about at the time, I'll go that way when/if I retire the cutting board.
It's not pretty, but for less than $10 I have a router table and gained some experience building it.


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## silentblackhat (Nov 29, 2009)

Thanks for all of the replies. I actually went with the cutting board method. I went to a local store and got a plastic cutting board (plllllllenty thick enough to hold the router) to cut up and shape into a router plate; its worked out really nicely. it fits perfectly into the routed out table top space. Just in case i need them, im going to put adjustment screws in the plate. I will upload pictures of the router table soon. Thanks again!


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## okanagan (Dec 18, 2009)

DougA said:


> I built a table using a cutoff from a counter top, cut off the rear splash guard.
> Mounted the router directly to the counter top and placed it on saw horses.
> However, the depth of cut by mounting the router 3/4" down was an issue, so decided to use a plate. Made one from a kitchen cutting board as mentioned. However, I should have used a bigger cutting board as i need to remove the handles (1617EVS) to insert it. Drilled the router bit opening to size a template bushing. Also added a 3/4" plywood to base for more support, now that I cut a big hole into it.
> Other than being a bit too small, the cutting board is working fine, however, it has a slight bow to it. The cost however is almost the same as the Harbor Freight plate, which I didn't know about at the time, I'll go that way when/if I retire the cutting board.
> It's not pretty, but for less than $10 I have a router table and gained some experience building it.


DougA I was woundering if you could post a picture thanks.


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

I have two questions?


1) I was just wondering what kind of operations do you guys consider a good start for beginners and 2) why make your own router table? You can't be doing this to save money guys... 

It seems to me by reading this thread folks go to great lengths to create their own router table without really knowing what they are going to be doing with their router mounted on a temporary table. If you were to consider the length of time used to travel to HF, travel to the cutting board place purchase then construct and set up a temporary router table. By the way a quick tip on cutting boards that are made of poly, they will sag under the weight of the router, which puts the router bit below the table surface. I would say between $100 to $150 is being spent to creating a temporary table. Why would you do this? 

If one was to consider the time and money spent to rig up a temporary system, wouldn't it be better to source a place that has the information on how to use the router first. Once you are well versed in let's say five or ten router techniques. Purchase a good table that will enhance the learning process not hinder it. 

Then instead of focusing your energy creating your woodworking tools focus on understanding how to use the router table to create great beginner projects.


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## Wild Horse (Sep 9, 2009)

I guess I'm the direct opposite ? I don't think I can answer your first question...."beginner" is too dang subjective.:lol: Years ago when I was a "beginner", I was only hesitant on fingergrooves and dovetails. Your second question has several answers. The saving money part is easy, but then I don't deal with the really small router tables....but my 4'x8' rt (the biggest one I have) didn't cost 100 bucks, including phenolic and track. Ok, maybe just at 100 bucks.:laugh: The other reason is the sense of accomplishment building something you use everyday, I suppose. I dunno how others feel about it....I never understood why anyone would buy one vs. build one.

BTW, what do you mean by "temporary" ?

Maybe I ain't seein' it. :blink: :laugh::laugh:




BobandRick said:


> I have two questions?
> 
> 
> 1) I was just wondering what kind of operations do you guys consider a good start for beginners and 2) why make your own router table? You can't be doing this to save money guys...
> ...


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

Wild Horse said:


> I guess I'm the direct opposite ? I don't think I can answer your first question...."beginner" is too dang subjective.:lol: Years ago when I was a "beginner", I was only hesitant on fingergrooves and dovetails. Your second question has several answers. The saving money part is easy, but then I don't deal with the really small router tables....but my 4'x8' rt (the biggest one I have) didn't cost 100 bucks, including phenolic and track. Ok, maybe just at 100 bucks.:laugh: The other reason is the sense of accomplishment building something you use everyday, I suppose. I dunno how others feel about it....I never understood why anyone would buy one vs. build one.
> 
> BTW, what do you mean by "temporary" ?
> 
> Maybe I ain't seein' it. :blink: :laugh::laugh:


The comment below was made that lead me to assume temporary...

What im wondering is, should I use a plate? or should I do the same as what sears did? This is going to be my bench top router just for a little while so if I dont have to I dont want to spend too much on it. I dont have a router right now or a table saw to make the necessary cuts to make things like dovetail joints(i think thats what they are called) so when I get this first router setup, im going to make another table with those; this is just a starter table to get me going.

A simple router table without anything fancy like a base plate:

Materials needed is a quick trip to the lumberyard and get a piece for the table top and fence.

To get you going how about removing the router base plate and on a 2 X 4 1/2" piece of plywood using the plate mark the router mounting holes in one end of the plywood top 12" from the end and 12" in from the width. Drill the holes and mount the router to the plywood. 

To use this table you just clamp or screw 2/3rds of the plywood top to your work bench leaving the router to hang over and your up and running. Your first cut will be your largest bit through the plywood router top to find the bit center. The fence can be a piece of wood that needs to be appox. 28" long and 1 1/2 wide and 1" thick. Maybe a straight 2 X 3. It also needs a 1/2 hole through the 1" thickness and a 1/2 hole through the 1 1/2 width in the center of the fence. 

Tips on drilling a 1/2 hole in the fence. Clamp a piece of scrap on the side of the fence then drill with your 1" spade bit....1/2 of the bit in the scrap and 1/2 in the router fence.

Next, 

Please don't take the next comments about the size of table as a contradiction...The is from years of experience teaching the many uses of the router to many people with different skill levels.


As for 4 X 8 RT interesting size. Where is your router in a table this size? I imagine the size of your shop is considerable as well...couple of further discussion points to consider.

1) How close is the router to the edge of the 4 X 8 table? I assume it's not in the center, please don't say that. The ability to control the piece passing the router bit is just not there. 

2) Why such a size? The small table size gives control of the pieces passing by the router bit. Remember you use the table and fence position to control the wood passing by router bit. After your piece has gone by the router bit the cutting is done...there is no need for more fence. 

Table Features:
1) To do this you need a small fence space on the In-feed and out-feed... approx. 6-8" of fence on both sides. Again you just want to get onto the router bit and off the router bit.

2) The other important feature of the small table is that the position of your body and arm's length needs to allow control of the piece through both the in-feed and out-feed side of the fence. You need to have your body position in a place to hold and move the material past the router bit. (I will create a video to show my point early next week why small is better from the perspective of body position)

3) The small table accommodates all sizes of shops from the 60 X 80 monster shop down to the 10 X 10 micro shop. If your going to argue that you need a big table to cut large pieces? Consider the small table as the best solution to cutting large pieces...here is why? 

First let's talk about the optimum height of the table...And yes everyone is different. To determine the right table height for YOU do the following: Stand comfortably in the middle of your shop bend your elbow and get the wife or friend to measure from your elbow to the floor. With this measurement subtract 5 inches and that is the optimum height of tables and work benches for you.

Next why the smaller table size for larger pieces. Your height of all workbenches and table surfaces should also match the optimum height for you with the sum total of 4 X 8 of table space. Then when a large piece needs to be molded use the other tables as your support and not the monster 4 X 8 router table that you will be walking around for years to come and use as storage by laying lumber, tools etc... 

With the larger pieces you don't need a larger fence because again you just need a 6 to 8" to get on the router bit and 6 to 8" to get off the router bit. In all cases the longer fence hinders the cutting process and not helps.

Mounting of the fence to the router table...why and how? To answer this we need to go back to grade 8 math. To explain this we need to think of the router bit as a circle and the fence as a tangent line on the circle. This way the fence is always square to the router bit and to mount the fence to the table needs to be as simple as a C-clamp. 

I assume most of the router tables out there have the fence mounted to the table with two screws, one on the in-feed side and one on the out-feed side with the thought that the fence needs to be parallel to the table top. This is wrong it doesn't need to be parallel to anything but the router bit and the router bit is a circle so the fence is always parallel. 

A short comment on tracks to hold the table saw miter gauge. Again with this the track is already parallel and shouldn't be used in combination with the fence.

So to summarize the small table size of the router table with the combination of 2 or 3 workbenches at the optimum height is the same size of the 4 X 8 one table but way more functional. The most important part of the router table is the router bit position and that position needs to allows you to control of the piece throughout the cutting process. Fences need to be small and the router table and workbench height should be at your optimum height.

Just my 2 cents,


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## Wild Horse (Sep 9, 2009)

Ok, thanks for the clarification on the temp thing. As to the rest......

My 4x8 rt contains 2 routers, 14" in from edge, infeed is @ 30" in from edge of table. This formula mirrors from one side to the other. Because of the layout of shop and other equipment of same height (cabinet saw, etc.) So picture 3 "tables/cabinets" inline. I can run two cuts (using both routers) without even touching a bit or anything. Now I understand this set up is based on my need for production. I haven't bought a piece of moulding in years, and my average trim job is probably 1500 lf. I can start in the morning with 150 sticks of s4s and by end of day not only is it trim, but its drying on racks painted or stained...and i probably got some fishin' in.

I guess my initial point was that you can build a router table cheaper than buying one, and might get more satisfaction from it. I gave my largest table as an example of pricing because you were talking like 100-150 bucks to build one, and I can build several average sized one's for that price.

I have used smaller commercial made rt's before. For running a limited number of pieces, I found them (just my opinion) fine. But for running a fair number of pieces less than adequate, especially for the price. Nothing I can do about the pricing on bits, blades, sharpening fees, etc. but I can sure save money building alot of my tools, fixtures and jigs. Heck, I even built my own featherboards.

OK, I'll shut up now, before I get in trouble :lol::yes4::lol:


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Great discussion guys, a lot of good points brought up. I made mine from a counter top sink cutout $2.00, a couple of 2x4's and some plywood I had laying around. Total cost less than $ 10.00. This table served my well for years. Hard to change bit and set bit height. A plate would have made this much easier.


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## BobandRick (Aug 4, 2004)

Custom made tooling used to complete specific number of moldings...I like the ingenuity. 

Further to this a few years ago a company sent me an independent power feed designed to work with the router. I wonder if you have thought of incorporating a power feed into your special router table used to make moldings? It was a small and compact tool that kept the feed rate constant with the spindle speed of the router. A slick little unit.

I also like the idea that you are building your own feather boards, jigs and fixtures. This is the ultimate to be able to look at a specific problem and build the tooling to solve the set up problem. Not something for the beginner but a necessary talent for someone doing this for a living. 

On another point and FYI: Have you heard of Williams and Hussy, this is a very good cost effective mold making tool which makes either straight or curved moldings quickly. 

Back to the real reason for me jumping in on this thread,

My small table concepts are for the general uses and the table techniques are designed to follow the "Keep It Simple System." 

I guess my reason for jumping in here is to explain the following: "All learning needs to start some where and building a router table from scratch is probably not a good place to start." Plus building it with not owning a router is maybe putting the cart ahead of the horse.

Maybe if you are starting out as a beginner you should do nothing until you have a handle on the following:

Router terms:

1) Routerforums is a great place to start. Router Forums has a glossary feature that can be used to help to get a handle with the terminology. If you are new check it out if you are skilled and see some missing terms please jump in and add the missing terms. Click here to check it out. 

Asking questions is important:

2) The atmosphere here is no question is a dumb question. The only question not answered is the one not asked so posting questions in the forum is another great source of information. The answers will come with a wide variety of opinions on what to do while using your router but I think this community is interested in helping others.

Join in on some Planned Learning topics:

3) I have built 10 free router lessons from our extensive video library, over 90 hours on the uses of the router. You can find the link to the 10 free lessons in my signature. You have to be patient as this is video embedded in a PDF so it doesn't come up quickly. Plus there is a warning that comes up asking you to contact me you can ignore the warning and press cancel to continue.

4) Join me on my blog called routerworkshop.net

Here I talk regularly and answer direct questions on the many uses of the router.

I think that it for this week.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

silentblackhat, 
I fear high temps of the routed material may cause it to melt right in to your cutting board router plate, or at the least warp it pretty good.


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## cbsjoez1935 (Mar 14, 2007)

Silentblackhat,
Welcome to the world of routing. If I understand your original post, you are looking to get started and that is why I jumped in. Using a plate is more convenient than a router screwed to a table top. When I started, after getting the bug watching the RWS on PBS, I simply took a piece of 3/8" plywood about 20" X 2', mounted my router on it dead center and drilled a center hole, using the router, with a 1/4" spiral bit. I then took the router off and enlargened the hole with a hole saw. With the router mounted once again, I secured the system in my B & D Workmate, clamping the sides right on the router (Hitachi MV12). My fence was a simple 2 X 2 with the proper holes cut out. After using it to make a few simple things and gain some knowledge, I purchased the OP router table top and 1st edition book that had the router bench plans. I then made my own router bench/table with a plate insert made of phenolic. What I am trying to tell you is start off simple and see what it is you want to do to improve your system.
Joe Z.


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## davcefai (Aug 3, 2009)

I was probably the first person to suggest using a cutting board to make a plate. Some cutting boards are harder than others. You need to use one of the hard ones.

Regarding the "why build your own?" question I can only recount my saga.

I started with mounting my router on a Wolfcraft machine table. (ie clamp it to the underside with the cutter through a hole.) This got old very quickly. I had to remove the circular saw each time I wanted to use the router and unclamp the router to change bits.

Next step was a plywood board clamped to the workbench with my Elu router clamped underneath. I made the clamps and a primitive router lift myself.

Fence time: I replaced my piece of board and 2 clamps by a sliding fence.

By this time I had the bug. My Elu broke down 1 hour before the shops closed on a Saturday so I went out and bought a 1100 watt HP Ferm Router. This cried out for a plate so I made one.

Next was convert the fence to micro-adjustable. It's not perfect but I can adjust easily to 0.25mm. After that I added sliding faces to the fence. I can adjust the clearance for different bits and shim out the outfeed fence for jointing. 

Last week I added dust collection. (perspex hood on the fence)

All of the above was driven by needs. I (almost) have the ideal table for my requirements and tiny workshop.

Soon I shall build a new one with an aluminium fence, sliding faces, coarse adjustment of the fence with micro-adjustability to 0.1mm.

The whole lot (excluding router) has cost me less that $15. I have learned what factors are important in a router table and I have had a lot of fun and satisfaction from building it.

For another $20 I plan to have the ideal (for me) router table. If I were woodworking for profit then this project would not have made sense. For a hobbyist it has made perfect sense.

Ok, now I'm off to finish rounding over the parts for the guitar stands I am building.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi David

Not to much under the Sun is new when it comes to router table plates 


======


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## silentblackhat (Nov 29, 2009)

Thanks for all of the tips! I think my table will be more of a permanent table now. I was thinking that it would not be strong but the way i built it, the table is very strong. The cutting board is working out pretty well right now, the MDF that i cut on it doesnt cause the board to melt or warp. I might upgrade the plate to something else but, it works for now so im happy.

I will post some pictures of my table when I am able to.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

This is why I'm a proud owner of a OP table. As Rick said, it follows the K.I.S.S. rule. It's nothing fancy, doesn't need to be, it does the exact same job as those that have the "bells and whistles". I'm not against them, they seem to be a waste of $$$ compared to a simple table. 

Just my $0.02 worth.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

i have to agree with Ken on the kiss method.

my rt is not an op, but it works very much the same. i have a fence that i clamp to it and that is it. but the simple rt i built years before i knew anything much about routers serves me as well today as anyone could ask.


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## davcefai (Aug 3, 2009)

Bob&Rick,

I'm probably the least qualified person in the world to argue routers with you. However ther are a couple of points which "modify" your excellent advice on router table size.

1. If the table is a clamp-to-the-workbench type then extra support when needed becomes a little bit more difficult. (Hint: clamp 2 pieces of wood the same thickness as the table to the workbench)

2. The table also needs to be large enough to support pieces being template-routed.without a fence. In my case this means, for example, being able to support a 2' door top rail (or is it stile?)


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Dave... it needs to be large enough for you to guide the wood over the bit, it doesn't need to be large enough to support the whole piece of wood. I'm no expert but I've routed 3/4" deep (?wide?) x 1-1/2" wide (?deep?) rabbets in 2" thick maple that was 8" wide and 8' long (yes, I had a helper supporting one end for safety) and I can assure you that my table is no where near 8' wide, much less 16' wide. It is closer to 2' wide. It just needs to be flat on the table in the vicinity of the cutter. Just the $0.02 of a near-beginner that is learning every day!


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

silentblackhat said:


> Thanks for all of the tips! I think my table will be more of a permanent table now. I was thinking that it would not be strong but the way i built it, the table is very strong. The cutting board is working out pretty well right now, the MDF that i cut on it doesnt cause the board to melt or warp. I might upgrade the plate to something else but,* it works for now so im happy.
> *
> I will post some pictures of my table when I am able to.


That's all that matters


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## KenDarga (Feb 18, 2011)

A cast-iron plate is the most stable.
Alum the second choice.
I have a cast alum plate (by Bosch)---very sturdy and stable---it stays flat.

The mounting plate needs to be rigid, so as to minimize sagging and warpage.
Wood will warp and distort.
Plastic is okay, but get one at least 3/8" thick.

For plate size(s)---check out the various router table OEM's---
Bosch, Porter-Cable, Kreg, and others---
review the specs on each, and make comparisons.

Go with the best you can afford.

Making your own plate, will be a problem, if you don't the the proper machining tools,
or savy, to make all the machining operations.


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## seawolf21 (Jan 19, 2007)

*Don't need no stinkin' plate*

This has served me well for many years. It is drilled for a Porter Cable router and a Craftsman. There is a clear Lexan plate underneath to hold the router. Some day I'll replace the top and think about a plate. 

Gary
http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...guidance-routing-picture-frames-frame-jig.jpg


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## rogerd (Sep 19, 2010)

If I were to make another table, I would only use an aluminum plate.
I made the misyake of bying a cheap plastic platre and it sunk down.
Rogerd38


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

My first table was a piece of melamine coated chipboard on braced angle iron legs, with the small Bosch pof 52 router mounted directly to the table. I soon realized that I was losing at least 3/4" of depth of cut due to the thickness of the top. The next was a simple 4 piece table that fitted into the vice, copied from a routing book. It was great with its lexan surface and Elu 96e, I made another to take my big Elu 177e. This lacked a good fence as ll I used were lengths of MDF clamped to the top. I ten bought an Incra fence and a Jessem Router Raiser. I made a medium size benchtop table with 2 fences, and a large table for the Incra that mounts between benches. The Jessem goes between the 2 with a DW625e mounted. There are times that i carefully mount the small Elu in a woodwork vice and run some wood across it.So I guess a router plate is good.


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## stk10759 (Feb 13, 2012)

With that router insert made of the cutting board, are you still using it? have you had any problems with warping or inaccurate cuts? My wife handed me a cutting board yesterday and thus began my research on this topic.


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## rogerd (Sep 19, 2010)

If you use a plate, use an aliminum one so it doesn't sag


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## davcefai (Aug 3, 2009)

stk10759 said:


> With that router insert made of the cutting board, are you still using it? have you had any problems with warping or inaccurate cuts? My wife handed me a cutting board yesterday and thus began my research on this topic.


No problems, but I emphasise that it must be a fairly rigid board. Most are too flexible.

I now have 2 plates, one aluminium - shop made - to prove I could. The other is cutting board. They are identically shaped, to fit in the same table, but for 2 different routers.


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## Hexhead (Jul 12, 2009)

Welcome aboard


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

from one that has tried and failed spend the money on an aluminium plate and drill the holes ever so carefully

good luck - r baker


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## dchisholm (May 30, 2012)

*Use a Plate!*

My first router table (circa 1980) was a sink cutout with a Sears router mounted underneath. I don't think I used it for more than a day before I realized the value of mounting the router to a plate. At the very least, a plate makes bit changes about 10 times easier. And, it takes only 2 seconds to lift the router out of the table for use where a hand-held cut is necessary.

The commercial products are convenient and accurate, but I have been successful with shop-built router plates. I have made them from 1/4" tempered hardboard ("Masonite"), Baltic birch plywood (8mm as I recall), 1/4" acrylic ("Plexiglass") and polycarbonate ("Lexan") from a plastics distributor's bin of cutoffs. The only disappointment was the 11" square plate I made from the hardboard - it sagged, although a smaller plate had performed satisfactorily.

When you fabricate the things yourself, it doesn't bother you to turn the base plate into a special-purpose jig for some operation by adding holes, slots, guides, stops, etc. You are also 

Machine your plate to the same dimensions as one of the commercial plates. (Early on I bought a plate from Oak Park Enterprises, so mine have followed those dimensions ever since.) You can add or omit as many of that vendor's features as you wish - holes for guide pins or to mount other accessories; center holes sized for a particular brand of guide bushings; larger or smaller center holes, etc. After you have figured out which features are truly useful to you, which ones have occasional benefits, and which ones are seldom used you can shop for a commercial plate that best suits your needs.


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