# long rout



## kkid (May 21, 2011)

I need to rout a 6 foot long, 2" deep, .25" wide hole in a piece of teak. Would appreciate recommendations for how to do this. First thing I need is an appropriate straight bit with an extra long shank, but I'm not finding what I think is suitable.


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

I would use a table saw for that operation. Or even a hand held circular saw with apporiate fence. For both options you would have to make multiple passes on your material.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I will 2nd Michael post May I ask why you need a 2" deep slot  not the norm.
Plus if you find a router bit that can do the job (Not) it will be very hard on the bit..(teak is not soft as you know)
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walowan said:


> I would use a table saw for that operation. Or even a hand held circular saw with apporiate fence. For both options you would have to make multiple passes on your material.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

In spite of routers being my main tools, I too would use the table saw for such a project.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

kkid said:


> I need to rout a 6 foot long, 2" deep, .25" wide hole in a piece of teak. Would appreciate recommendations for how to do this. First thing I need is an appropriate straight bit with an extra long shank, but I'm not finding what I think is suitable.


It's unclear from your description whether the "hole" is a slot with closed ends, or more like a dado - a long groove - in a piece thicker than 2 inches. 

If it is a slot with closed ends, I think I'd use a plunge-style circular saw with a guide system to "hog" out most of the material, and then make a final, very light clean-up cut with the router. Trying to do "stopped" cuts like that on a table saw on a piece that long would be difficult and potentially dangerous.

As Bob mentioned, Teak is very hard on edged tools. So, having extra bits and/or blades on hand is probably in order.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

More information on what you are trying to accomplish should help us generate the best solutions.


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## kkid (May 21, 2011)

I want to make slot, but I may rethink my option and use my table saw. What I'm trying to do is insert a steel bar into the teak board, which is a removable floor joist in my boat. The teak flexes quite a bit, and I want to stiffen it. If I can insert my steel bar, I won't have to do any extra carpentry.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

A skinny piece of steel won't buy you much regidity either.
A Tee, Ell or an I-beam in that assembly will buy you a lot more.
In fact, the moment (stiffness) of that assembly (t, l or i) will increase x the square of the section.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If the steel is prevented from flexing it is surprising how much weight it will support. I have done something similar but I sandwiched the steel between 2x s and bolted through with many bolts. I would recommend the same, bolt or screw the steel to one side.


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## kkid (May 21, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> If the steel is prevented from flexing it is surprising how much weight it will support. I have done something similar but I sandwiched the steel between 2x s and bolted through with many bolts. I would recommend the same, bolt or screw the steel to one side.


Sandwiching is what I'm trying to do. If I can fit my 1/4 by 2" steel bar as I wish, I sure it will be quite stiff.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

kkid said:


> Sandwiching is what I'm trying to do. If I can fit my 1/4 by 2" steel bar as I wish, I sure it will be quite stiff.


I would go wider if possible which is why I suggested going alongside instead of in a groove. Even the 2" should make a difference. I would also use a table saw to groove if that's what you do, especially since you will be grooving the edge of the board. Set the saw so that the blade cuts close to center of the edge. Then make a pass and turn the board 180 degrees and make another pass. Make very small adjustments and keep doing that until the groove is the right width. By doing it this way the groove will be dead center.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

You should be able to rip that slot quite easily on a table saw with a dado blade, but make several passes at increased blade heights rather than trying to remove all of the material in one pass. 

A better way would be to rip the board in half, then rout a 1/8" pocket in each half of the beam (or 1/4" in only 1 half) for the steel, and then epoxy the beam back together, sandwiching the steel inside. All that would be visible in the finished beam would be a very thin joint line. A piece of 1/4 X 2" steel plate mounted in an upright position inside the beam will likely triple the beam's strength, but it will also add about 30-40 lbs to it's weight for every 6' of beam length.

Charley


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

kkid said:


> Sandwiching is what I'm trying to do. If I can fit my 1/4 by 2" steel bar as I wish, I sure it will be quite stiff.


Just inserting the steel won't do much unless it's structurally tied to the wood that you're slotting, or the structure that slotted wood connects to. In other words, you're going to need many shear fasteners that go through the wood and steel to transfer the bending loads from the metal to the slotted wood and adjoining structure. You must have access to the sides of the wood beam you're trying to stiffen in order to add the fasteners. Unless you have some neat way of hiding these fasteners, it's probably not going to look very good either. Just saying.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

I wonder if looking at guitar neck construction might not help? The neck of a modern guitar is generally routed to accept a truss rod to keep the neck straight. Adjustable truss rods allow the tension to be increased or decreased as required. In a guitar neck the truss rod is often housed in a routed groove and covered by a glued-on fretboard. Coluldn't your componemt be made in a similar manner?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Have you considered routing a wide U channel in the bottom side of your teak and gluing in a piece of white oak?


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

If you do epoxy steel in there, make sure you clean it really well, sandpaper off the scale then degrease it with rubbing alcohol or something, to ensure a good bond.

What kind of flex are you trying to avoid? Is it bouncy when steped on?


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