# direction of feed?



## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Hi, first time post here, and I need some clarification on my router table use.
I'm VERY new to the hobby, its my FIRST router table, and I dont seem to understand as much as I thought I did.

With the fence behind the router bit, I understood that I should feed wood from the right, but if I feed a straight piece of wood in, the wood flies out the other side like a cannon shot.
If I feed from the left, it works reasonably well, but why do all the vidoes I've seen feed from the right?

thanks


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I'll leave it to the experts but welcome to the forum Bob.
I'm a noob but from what I've seen you always go against the direction of the bits rotation . Meaning don't push it the same direction the bits rotating


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## 48394 (Oct 25, 2010)

Bob,
I take it that you are running the board between the bit and the fence. That is incorrect and leaves you exposed to the spinning, flesh eating bit.
Only that portion of the bit to engage the board should extend beyond the opening in the fence and should never be more than half the cutting diameter. Then you will be able to safely feed from right to left.
These comments apply to partial edge removal such as profiling less than the entire edge. If the entire width of the board is reduced then the left fence needs a build up to uniformly support the routed edge at the end of the cut.
If you are plowing grooves (with grain) or dados (across grain) the entire bit can be well in front of the fence as long as the cutter is engaging both sides of the cut.

Regis


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Welcome to the forum Bob. It sounds like you have your board "trapped" between the fence and the bit which is a no-no. What Rick said about feed direction is correct and if you do have the board trapped then you are feeding with the rotation by going right to left. Another way of saying it is that you always want to feed towards the flat side of the cutter.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Welcome aboard Bob.

Either use a fence or don't use a fence, but regardless, don't run the board between the fence and the bit. 

A fence is used as a guide so the board will move along beside it as it passes over (or past) the router bit. The correct method is to move the board from the right side past the cutter and on to the left side of the table.

Someone has a pic of two which should be helpful.

I may have a few pics that should help.

Here are a couple of links on You Tube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-YeSZ5dW90

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Vl8Jbw3cSk


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Hello and welcome to the forum.Bob


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Reg66 said:


> Bob,
> I take it that you are running the board between the bit and the fence. That is incorrect and leaves you exposed to the spinning, flesh eating bit.
> 
> Regis


Regis that used to be a bad habit of mine and I have had material spit out at a very high velocity . (Not sure where my hand was when it happened but I'd rather not know) 
I think it was the first thing I learned here and I probably avoided disaster by joining the forum


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Bob.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, Bob.

Here is a short video I made for the forum.

Not production quality, but shows what is required.

https://youtu.be/-HTcDq8KjLo


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Ah, I see where I went wrong, thanks.
I have several thin strips of mahogany in varying widths that I am trying to get to a uniform thickness to make a lazy susan table.

So i need to run the strips right to left, but IN FRONT of the blade. 
That makes the job harder, as I hoped to just run each piece through a set gap between blade and fence (i dont have a planer /thicknesser).
i think I now need to run each piece through several times taking off 1 mm at a time and checking each time.
unless there are other suggestions?


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## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

I don't think that's a job for a router. You should be using a drum sander. Since you don't have a drum sander make a thin cutting jig and use a table saw than sand by hand. Using a thin cutting jig is much safer than what you are doing. Google thin cutting jigs.


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## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

Bob a very simple jig for cutting thin strips (this is what I use) 
How to safely rip thin strips/Table saw/cutting Google that and you should be all set.


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## PAD3 (Oct 20, 2013)

It would seem better, to me, to use your table saw. Set the fence for your width and run all material through at one time then put profile on boards with your router.


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

Very well said Regis.
David


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

PAD3 said:


> It would seem better, to me, to use your table saw. Set the fence for your width and run all material through at one time then put profile on boards with your router.


My table saw is part of my mitre saw, it cuts well but doesnt leave a nice finished edge. I was trying to get the strips sized and planed (routed) at the same time. looks like thats a non starter (sigh).

Ok, I'm off to surf ripping thin strips......


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I see by your profile Bob that you have a table saw so I would agree with the others that this is the right tool for the job. You may need to smooth the edges after so that you can laminate the pieces together. There is a way to do that with a router table but the set up has to be perfect and may take a few tries to get right. You need to have the outfeed fence on your router table slightly more forward than your infeed side. Then you set a straight bit so that it sits flush with the outfeed side. Practice on scrap until you get it set properly.


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## IRestore (Mar 28, 2015)

*Commercially available Thin Strip Jigs*



Knot working said:


> Bob a very simple jig for cutting thin strips (this is what I use)
> How to safely rip thin strips/Table saw/cutting Google that and you should be all set.


You can also purchase them from popular woodworking stores or on line stores for less than $30. I would have posted links, but not sure if that is allowed. Search for "Thin Strip Jig"


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I see by your profile Bob that you have a table saw so I would agree with the others that this is the right tool for the job. You may need to smooth the edges after so that you can laminate the pieces together. There is a way to do that with a router table but the set up has to be perfect and may take a few tries to get right. You need to have the outfeed fence on your router table slightly more forward than your infeed side. Then you set a straight bit so that it sits flush with the outfeed side. Practice on scrap until you get it set properly.


my table saw is part of a combo mitre saw. its ok, but no great shakes at making finished edges. My gear is extremely basic by any woodworkers standards.

After a lifetime working with metal, this retirement hobby of wood working is a very steep learning curve for me.
I've just surfed ripping thin strips and have some ideas now, thanks.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

ok, I've been thinking this through, and I dont think my table saw (which isnt really much of a table saw) is up to these small pieces, so what if......

I space out the left fence of the router table a long way from the right one, set the bit to match the left fence, then clamp a new fence in front of the bit, 12 mm from the left fence.
then I use the new front fence to guide the wood through the bit using a push stick.
that seems to me (ignorance is bliss) that it would accommodate my needs?


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## 48394 (Oct 25, 2010)

Bob,
What you now propose is another recipe for disaster. About halfway through the cut the board will rotate into the left fence, the cut will eventually emerge out the right fence side of the board and if you are very lucky no other damage will be done.
Why not purchase an economical 10" band saw to rip the thin strips?
Even if you succeed in making some usable strip lengths using the router, the yield will be awfully low.
Regis


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

`11!1-


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## RMIGHTY1 (Nov 5, 2014)

Here is what Google showed for cutting thin strips.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXQncneobeI


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Reg66 said:


> Bob,
> What you now propose is another recipe for disaster. About halfway through the cut the board will rotate into the left fence, the cut will eventually emerge out the right fence side of the board and if you are very lucky no other damage will be done.
> Why not purchase an economical 10" band saw to rip the thin strips?
> Even if you succeed in making some usable strip lengths using the router, the yield will be awfully low.
> Regis


Damn! i thought I had it then. problems I have are, my "table saw" is only the top half of a mitre saw sticking up through a 12" square table, with no adjustments. i have a band saw, but it wont cut straight enough for a glued edge.

i am working with bare minimum equipment and i think am trying to achieve too much with what I have.
More thinking required


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## 48394 (Oct 25, 2010)

Bob,
If you already have the strips made and you want to joint the edges for glue up here is one way to do it:
Attach a piece of high pressure laminate (Formica) to the face of the left fence with double sided tape so that it is as long as that side of the fence and flush to the table and the right end of the left fence.
Then lay another piece of the same laminate on the right fence face.
Move the fence assembly forward so that the straight cutter (or spiral cutter) is not exposed.
Bring the two fence faces as close as possible to the cutter but not touching.
With a good straight edged board or tool push the fence assembly back until the straight edge is stopped by the leading edge of the cutter.
Lock down the fence.
Remove the laminate from the right fence.
You are now ready to use a push stick or better yet a Gripper to feed the edge of the strip past the cutter and achieve a very straight, smooth edge for glue up. Flip the piece to joint the other side. It will also be suitable for glue up but the parallelity will be determined by what came off the saw. There's a router based solution for that issue but let's try this first
Good luck! And, if it doesn't feel safe, don't do it!!
Regis


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## RMIGHTY1 (Nov 5, 2014)

This should work even with your mitre saw/ table saw combo.

8 Table Saw Ripping Jigs: Big Boards, Thin Strips |

A useful jig you can use over and over again.

Cheers!!!


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

much appreciate the time and effort to help me. I think I am too focused on "there, its done" rather than "first i need to build this, to build that, to give me good stuff" :lol::no:

I need to step back and make a plan I think. :dirol:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

RMIGHTY1 said:


> This should work even with your mitre saw/ table saw combo.
> 
> 8 Table Saw Ripping Jigs: Big Boards, Thin Strips |
> 
> ...



Bookmarked....


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

sunnybob said:


> Hi, first time post here, and I need some clarification on my router table use.
> I'm VERY new to the hobby, its my FIRST router table, and I dont seem to understand as much as I thought I did.
> 
> With the fence behind the router bit, I understood that I should feed wood from the right, but if I feed a straight piece of wood in, the wood flies out the other side like a cannon shot.
> ...


Hi Bob, i checked your profile and see that you have a small bandsaw.

Reading your question a second time, I am not sure what you are trying to do.

Plane the strips, joint the strips? 

How wide is the piece of timber, I am making an assumption that it is a thin strip, but that may not be correct.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

there just may be a way...

set the fence to shave...
double stick tape the thin strips to a carrier board and dress them on your router table... 
shave off a fuzz...
check for thickness...
continue as required to get where you need to be...

remember...
feed right to left and in front of the bit...


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## 48394 (Oct 25, 2010)

Stick,
Are you telling a rookie to climb route when he barely has the skill to joint an edge?
Regis


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Reg66 said:


> Stick,
> Are you telling a rookie to climb route when he barely has the skill to joint an edge?
> Regis


*heavens no...*

thanks for catching that... my bad...

he could rough cut on the TS and then dress the strips on the RT...


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Bob, i checked your profile and see that you have a small bandsaw.
> 
> Reading your question a second time, I am not sure what you are trying to do.
> 
> ...


I have many cut off strips of mahogany, varying lengths and widths, from 15" down to 4" long, and 1" to 1/2" wide and deep.
My plan "A" was to make them all the same width and depth, and then to glue them into a flat panel, then cut a circle for a lazy susan turntable.

I have made one of these already and it received favourable comments from "'er indoors", but the glued edges are not the best, and I sanded it with a slope, so i wanted to use the router table and these strips to practice on and make an improved version.

but the help of people here has made me rethink.

My bandsaw is not good enough for this. It was a cheap starter unit and I regret ever buying it, its rubbish.

I think it would be best if I go to plan "B", which is to give the strips to my neighbour who has a wood burner stove. he gets all my off cuts (g)


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