# Cuttin With TS Blade Tilted To 45 degrees



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

This tread might be more suitable fot the safety catabory, and if so, well, the moderator will move it.

Here what I'm wondering. somethines a project for a small box will be such that I want to just miter the corners instead of cutting dovetails or box joints. So I crank the blade over to 45 degrees fine tune with a Wixley gauge. So far so good, but here is the rub, the parts are ofter to short to use the miter gauge. This has been where I have very carefully made the cuts by holding the piece being cut hard against the fence while making the cut.

While I'm getting away with it or have so far, it just can't be the safest way to make the cuts. I'm asking for suggestions about another way to make the cuts, and/or is this what everyone else does.

Maybe the way I'm doing this is not as dangerous as I'm thinking, but I know that I'm inviting a kick back and it scares me.
,


Jerry


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

A sled with a fence to the blade, Jerry.

It can only cover one side of the table in need be.

Or an auxiliary fence on the mitre gauge.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

sled like James said...
add a hold down...


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

O.K., good advise, I have an Incra Express Sled with the miter gauge and fence on it. It is set up to work from the left side of the blade. The MDF that the sled is made of is half inch, I had been of the opinion that the blade would not be able to make the cut. Admittedly a wrong assumption. I sure will give it a try, will have to reverse the set up so it will work from the right side of the blade.

Jerry


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Most miter gauges (at least the Delta) have vertical slots that you can use to attach a sacrificial fence board to via 2 wood screws. This sacrificial board can be any length and is easily removed and replaced simply by loosening or tightening the wood screws. When doing cuts like you are describing I use a miter fence board that extends past the blade and it is high enough that the blade only makes a slit of the blade height and width. Once this slot has been cut it is very easy to align the pieces being cut so that they are cut very accurately

Charley


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## lenh (Feb 27, 2009)

Jerry Bowen said:


> This tread might be more suitable fot the safety catabory, and if so, well, the moderator will move it.
> 
> Here what I'm wondering. somethines a project for a small box will be such that I want to just miter the corners instead of cutting dovetails or box joints. So I crank the blade over to 45 degrees fine tune with a Wixley gauge. So far so good, but here is the rub, the parts are ofter to short to use the miter gauge. This has been where I have very carefully made the cuts by holding the piece being cut hard against the fence while making the cut.
> 
> ...


With short pieces you can always use a 45 degree chamfering bit in your router table.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

lenh said:


> With short pieces you can always use a 45 degree chamfering bit in your router table.


still need a sliding table or extended miter fence...

make an ""L"" shaped carrier for the miter gage tall enough so that blade only kerfs the carrier and the carrier carries the cut off clear of the blade... 
an ""L"" shaped carrier is easy to add stops and hold downs to...


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## PAD3 (Oct 20, 2013)

Having made a bunch of small boxes as Christmas gifts here is what I did. I cut all miters from the left side.

1. keep blade at 90 degrees not 45.
2. Add small piece of stock to miter gauge appropriate to longest length of box side to allow a stop block to be added.
3. Set miter gauge to 45 degrees, I use a plastic drafting triangle.
4. place box sides vertically on miter gauge and make first cuts. You can clamp box side to miter fence if small.
5. Place stop block at desired size ( length ) and cut the rest of miters.

Remember that this will only work if height of box side doesn't exceed height of saw blade, approximately 3''. This in my opinion, with empirical knowledge, gives excellent straight, square and same length miters and make glue up easy as everything fits well. I also spline the corners for added strength and aesthetics.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

I vote and use all the above.


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## rrrun (Jun 17, 2014)

It fascinates me how many techniques there are to accomplish most operations you need to do in the shop. Here's my 2 cents:

1. Never make a cut you don't feel safe to make.
2. Use a blade guard 100% of the time that it's possible. With your 45* cut, probably not possible.
3. GRR-Ripper is a very good solution for small part cutting on the table saw, I've found.
4. It's always easier to shape a larger piece, and then rip or cut off a small piece that is shaped.
5. Never make a cut you don't feel safe to make.


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

I, unfortunately, don't have a table saw so i use my router for 45 degree edge joints. I double face tape a straight board to the edge I'm going to route for the chamfer bit's bearing to ride on. Once I get the height set I get some nice sharp edges pretty much ready for glue up.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Barry747 said:


> I, unfortunately, don't have a table saw so i use my router for 45 degree edge joints. I double face tape a straight board to the edge I'm going to route for the chamfer bit's bearing to ride on. Once I get the height set I get some nice sharp edges pretty much ready for glue up.


Barry,
Would you mind revealing to me how many passes it takes to finish an edge with the router bit. Seems to me that cutting cross grain would be such that several passes wold be required which is not problem of course, just wondering, I like the concept. I have the bit for this but have never used it.

Jerry


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Jerry-

Is your saw a left-tilt or right-tilt?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Personally I hate ripping wood when the blades at a 45 . I should pay attention to this thread


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Personally I hate ripping wood when the blades at a 45 . I should pay attention to this thread


why???


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> why???


Seems precarious as there's more blade exposed and more potential for kick back ( well at least when I do it) 
I'm also afraid of the dark and public toilets :fie:


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> Jerry-
> Is your saw a left-tilt or right-tilt?


The reason I asked is:
If you are cutting small pieces at a 45* angle with the piece between the rip fence and blade, while the blade is tilted towards the left... I would say-> Stop now and promise me you'll start using a push block for that. You could also do it safer and better by moving your rip fence out of the way, and using a stop block on your your miter gauge in your right miter slot.

If you are doing that with a right-tilt blade towards the fence-- quick and make sure all your fingers are still there. I do that cut on my right tile saws with the work piece on the left side of the blade with a crosscut fence or miter 

If you make a bevel cut with the workpiece under the edge of the blade, such as with a miter gauge in the left slot, workpiece to the left of the blade and the blade tilted to the left... you are going to usually get a wandering cut with burn marks in the workpiece.

Both my TS'es (canninet and sliding panel) are right tilt, so I cut bevels with the work to the left of the blade, opposite of what you should do with a left-tilt saw..

It I'm doing this for small pieces for a little box or anything up to about 14", then I usually do that on my SCMS with the workpiece clamped down. From about 2" to 74" wide and a bevel of of a cut up to 72", then I use my panel saw and clamp the work to the sliding table.

Bevel longer than about 72", and I use a circular saw with a track-type guide...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Seems precarious as there's more blade exposed and more potential for kick back ( well at least when I do it)
> I'm also afraid of the dark and public toilets :fie:


with as many bushes there are why bother with public facilities...

is your blade tilted toward the fence or away???


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Stick486 said:


> with as many bushes there are why bother with public facilities...
> 
> is your blade tilted toward the fence or away???


It's a left tilt blade away from the fence.

Jerry


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Jerry Bowen said:


> It's a left tilt blade away from the fence.
> 
> Jerry


X2 . My prior TS was a delta and was a right hand tilt


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Barry747 said:


> I, unfortunately, don't have a table saw so i use my router for 45 degree edge joints. I double face tape a straight board to the edge I'm going to route for the chamfer bit's bearing to ride on. Once I get the height set I get some nice sharp edges pretty much ready for glue up.


Hi Barry, I also like using 45* chamfer bit for small work. I like using one in the table with the fence, and completely negate the bearing. With a large chamfer bit you are very seldom cutting stock that is full thickness (3/4"). As to Jerrys question about the number of passes, there again it depends on the thickness of the wood. Almost all can be cut in one pass, up to 3/4 inch with a good bit. I simply use a backer board against the fence as a push block. This protects your hands and prevents tare out on cross grain cuts.

Dick


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## lenh (Feb 27, 2009)

Willway said:


> Hi Barry, I also like using 45* chamfer bit for small work. I like using one in the table with the fence, and completely negate the bearing. With a large chamfer bit you are very seldom cutting stock that is full thickness (3/4"). As to Jerrys question about the number of passes, there again it depends on the thickness of the wood. Almost all can be cut in one pass, up to 3/4 inch with a good bit. I simply use a backer board against the fence as a push block. This protects your hands and prevents tare out on cross grain cuts.
> 
> Dick


I'm 100 percent with Dick. The only other thing I do is to use sacrificial wooden fences that I close up around the bit. 

Jerry did not give us a lot of information about what he is trying to do. How wide are the pieces, how thick, how long, how many, what kind of wood? When I think of a small box I'm thinking 1/4 or 3/8 thickness. Not sure if he has an actual project or if it is just something he is wondering about. As seen in the responses above there are many ways to go about this. The old adage, if it scares you don't do it.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

lenh said:


> I'm 100 percent with Dick. The only other thing I do is to use sacrificial wooden fences that I close up around the bit.
> 
> Jerry did not give us a lot of information about what he is trying to do. How wide are the pieces, how thick, how long, how many, what kind of wood? When I think of a small box I'm thinking 1/4 or 3/8 thickness. Not sure if he has an actual project or if it is just something he is wondering about. As seen in the responses above there are many ways to go about this. The old adage, if it scares you don't do it.


Let me be more specific, I am thinking about material that is about 3/8th thick. Right now the subject is that of building boxes that will reside in the upper part of the cedar chest, the material will be cedar. For the present chest the distance from from to rear is only 15" so the long parts will be that length, the short parts, about 8" Iin length.

Len,

My router table does not have a miter slot in it, but I do have the Incra right hand fixture which serves as a miter gauge and am thinking that it would be a good idea to use it to keep the workpiece square with the fence during the cut and this leads me to wonder if the sacrificial fence would still be required, what you you and Dick think about that?

Jerry


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## lenh (Feb 27, 2009)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Let me be more specific, I am thinking about material that is about 3/8th thick. Right now the subject is that of building boxes that will reside in the upper part of the cedar chest, the material will be cedar. For the present chest the distance from from to rear is only 15" so the long parts will be that length, the short parts, about 8" Iin length.
> 
> Len,
> 
> ...


Hey Jerry, My router table does not have miter slot either. It has a right angle fixture that attaches to the fence. Similar to yours. Using sacrificial fences narrows the gap in the fence opening and helps with tear out. With the narrow opening there is little chance of the board falling into the gap. For real narrow boards, say 1" to 3", it is best to use the right hand fixture to keep things square, although a wide push block could possible work. In case you did not pick up on this method the chamfer is set by raising or lowering the bit. The fence stays stationary and in line with the bearing on the bit. Also the pieces are cut to the finished size then chamfered. Obviously a test piece of the exact same thickness is needed to get set up. 

The chamfer bit should go through the 3/8 cedar like a knife through soft butter.


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

Willway said:


> Hi Barry, I also like using 45* chamfer bit for small work. I like using one in the table with the fence, and completely negate the bearing. With a large chamfer bit you are very seldom cutting stock that is full thickness (3/4"). As to Jerrys question about the number of passes, there again it depends on the thickness of the wood. Almost all can be cut in one pass, up to 3/4 inch with a good bit. I simply use a backer board against the fence as a push block. This protects your hands and prevents tare out on cross grain cuts.
> 
> Dick


Dick, If you're cutting less than the full height of the board, I agree with the fence. However, for me anyway, if i'm cutting the full height of the board for a complete miter, the top edge of the board, as it leaves the bit, is thin as a knife edge and easily damaged. By using a 2nd board, taped to the top of the board being cut not only does the bearing have a surface to ride on so does the board against the out feed fence so there is little chance of damaging the finished edge. As we all know, in woodworking, there are many ways to skin a cat, not that I've ever been able to figure out why anyone would want to skin a cat, so we each develop techniques that work for us. Your way is definitely faster but, for me, my way is safer. Being something of a klutz, I've learned that safety first helps both me and my projects survive our time in the shop with only the occasional need for rework, and band aids.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Barry747 said:


> Dick, If you're cutting less than the full height of the board, I agree with the fence. However, for me anyway, if i'm cutting the full height of the board for a complete miter, the top edge of the board, as it leaves the bit, is thin as a knife edge and easily damaged. By using a 2nd board, taped to the top of the board being cut not only does the bearing have a surface to ride on so does the board against the out feed fence so there is little chance of damaging the finished edge. As we all know, in woodworking, there are many ways to skin a cat, not that I've ever been able to figure out why anyone would want to skin a cat, so we each develop techniques that work for us. Your way is definitely faster but, for me, my way is safer. Being something of a klutz, I've learned that safety first helps both me and my projects survive our time in the shop with only the occasional need for rework, and band aids.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

lenh said:


> Hey Jerry, My router table does not have miter slot either. It has a right angle fixture that attaches to the fence. Similar to yours. Using sacrificial fences narrows the gap in the fence opening and helps with tear out. With the narrow opening there is little chance of the board falling into the gap. For real narrow boards, say 1" to 3", it is best to use the right hand fixture to keep things square, although a wide push block could possible work. In case you did not pick up on this method the chamfer is set by raising or lowering the bit. The fence stays stationary and in line with the bearing on the bit. Also the pieces are cut to the finished size then chamfered. Obviously a test piece of the exact same thickness is needed to get set up.
> 
> The chamfer bit should go through the 3/8 cedar like a knife through soft butter.


Len,
What you are describing is or at least sounds like the problem that I found when I first attempted to make cuts with lock miter bits. The problem was remedied when
I learned to put pressure downward toward the table and not against the fence when coming off of the in feed fence. This was what I did when making the cut that cut the slot parallel with the face of the workpiece. 

When making the matching cut with the face against the fence, the pressure was applied to the fence not the table when coming off of the in feed fence. I wonder if you have tried this when making the cuts that are the subject of this thread. If not, you might want to give it a try. By doing this, the workpiece is not allowed to drop into the space between the fences.

Jerry


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## lenh (Feb 27, 2009)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Len,
> What you are describing is or at least sounds like the problem that I found when I first attempted to make cuts with lock miter bits. The problem was remedied when
> I learned to put pressure downward toward the table and not against the fence when coming off of the in feed fence. This was what I did when making the cut that cut the slot parallel with the face of the workpiece.
> 
> ...


Good tip Jerry. I generally try to apply pressure both down and in toward the fence. BTW I recently bought a set of the Jessem clear cut stock guides. They really help when routing long boards.


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Len,
> What you are describing is or at least sounds like the problem that I found when I first attempted to make cuts with lock miter bits. The problem was remedied when
> I learned to put pressure downward toward the table and not against the fence when coming off of the in feed fence. This was what I did when making the cut that cut the slot parallel with the face of the workpiece.
> 
> ...


Jerry I think your smaller lock miter bit would work great for making the drawers. If I remember correctly the small bit will cut a lock miter with 3/8" stock. I guess I am lazy, we just use a rabbet joint and brad nails for drawers, haven't had on fail yet.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

A 45* chamfer bit is 45* to the table or the fence. You can stand your board on its end against the fence and then clamp another 90* to it sitting on top of the fence. This will prevent a dig at the end of the cut in case the bit is taking a little too much cut. Similar to Barry's suggestion except there is no fiddling with double sided tape. Works well for the vertical cut with the lock miter bit too.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> A 45* chamfer bit is 45* to the table or the fence. You can stand your board on its end against the fence and then clamp another 90* to it sitting on top of the fence. This will prevent a dig at the end of the cut in case the bit is taking a little too much cut. Similar to Barry's suggestion except there is no fiddling with double sided tape. Works well for the vertical cut with the lock miter bit too.



Charles,
I'm not sure that the carriage on the Incra LS would permit the clamping that you are describing, but for that matter, I'm not certain that I really understand your description.

Jerry


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Barry,
> Would you mind revealing to me how many passes it takes to finish an edge with the router bit. Seems to me that cutting cross grain would be such that several passes wold be required which is not problem of course, just wondering, I like the concept. I have the bit for this but have never used it.
> 
> Jerry


Jerry,
Yes, the end grain is the most challenging. I always use a backer board with both end and long grain. All of my experience, which is not extensive, has been with boards 1/2" - 3/4" thickness of pine and a few hardwoods. 1/2" pine I do in two passes taking about 2/3 of the thickness in the first pass. I haven't done any 1/2" hardwood. 3/4" Pine - 3 passes. 3/4" hardwood 3 or 4 passes. It's been a while and i don't remember which of the hardwoods gave me a problem but I ended up taking 90 - 95% of the wood in 3 passes and the 4th was a light one to cleanly remove the remainder. I usually work on one project at at time so I don't run a lot of wood at any one time. An extra pass or two only takes a couple of minutes so i don't mind adding an additional pass when hogging out too much causes a problem.

Even if I've worked with the wood before, i always run a test with a cutoff regardless of what bit i'm using. Besides testing the height it helps me to determine if the wood is more prone to tear out and it helps me determine the feed rate.

Try it on some scrap either using the fence to guide the edge or using a second board taped on top to guide along the bearing. See what works for you. Who knows, maybe in the end you'll prefer the TS. To me, half the fun of woodworking is experimenting with different ways to do the same task to see what works best. And, I never have to worry about destroying a good piece of wood since i use scrap to experiment with. 

Have fun and let us know how it goes.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Charles,
> I'm not sure that the carriage on the Incra LS would permit the clamping that you are describing, but for that matter, I'm not certain that I really understand your description.
> 
> Jerry


You may be right about the Incra carriage Jerry. I don't own one so I don't know. If it doesn't interfere the attached drawing will show what I meant. I didn't draw the clamps onto the drawing so you'll have to imagine those. It is just a quick and easy way to add a little more control to that type of cut.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> You may be right about the Incra carriage Jerry. I don't own one so I don't know. If it doesn't interfere the attached drawing will show what I meant. I didn't draw the clamps onto the drawing so you'll have to imagine those. It is just a quick and easy way to add a little more control to that type of cut.


Charles,
Add the sub fence to the main fence would be ease to do with the Incra fence in that it has slots in it's face for rectangular nuts to fit in, the heads of the bolts would of course have to be recessed. 

I'm getting information via e-mail from a friend and a member of the forum reminded me to that I bought the lock miter bits for this joint. The lock miter cuts have to be made in one pass. Since I not attempted to ust the bits on cross grain I need to do some experimenting and the set up you are showing would be the way to go. 

I had not felt that the miter lock joint would be necessary due to the bottom of the box being the main support of the four sides.

Jerry


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The lock miter joint shouldn't be absolutely necessary. If the miters are straight and clean they should hold well enough. However, the lock miter adds to the professionalism of the job just as finger joints, dovetails and splines will do. It's the small touches like that that change workmanship to craftsmanship. The added advantage of the lock miter is that it takes care of a lot of the alignment issues for you when you glue it together.

If you were going to make a lot of these it would pay to have a separate router and table (or at least on its own insert plate) and leave it set up. You would use your planer to size the boards to exactly the same thickness every time. This is one of those situations where the saying "one router, one bit" makes good sense.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> The lock miter joint shouldn't be absolutely necessary. If the miters are straight and clean they should hold well enough. However, the lock miter adds to the professionalism of the job just as finger joints, dovetails and splines will do. It's the small touches like that that change workmanship to craftsmanship. The added advantage of the lock miter is that it takes care of a lot of the alignment issues for you when you glue it together.
> 
> If you were going to make a lot of these it would pay to have a separate router and table (or at least on its own insert plate) and leave it set up. You would use your planer to size the boards to exactly the same thickness every time. This is one of those situations where the saying "one router, one bit" makes good sense.



Charles,
Great post, and congradulations on your new appointment by the way. 

I probably will not ever set up as separate miter lock set up, but as you said, if one was planning on doing a lot of the same cuts, it sure would be a good idea as he set up is pretty time consuming if you are peticular, and you should be. 

I used the joint for making the corner styles on the cedar chest build. If you have seen photos of the build you should look at the corner styles, it is indeed a neat joint, it was the first time to ever use the bit when I made the corner syles. 

I'm going to tell you about the set up, . I don't know if you are familiar with the Infinity set up jig or not, I put photos of it on the forum when I first used it, you may have seen it.

Anyway, as you know the concept is to get the part of the bit that cuts a slot into the face of the cut at the half way point. Instead of trying to draw a line at the half way point on the part to be run over the bit, I just milled a piece that was half the thickness of the part to be run over the bit and then lined the mark on the set up jig with the top edge of that part.

Once the set up is done, it's like sighting in rifle, how close do you want it to be and if you are peticular as I am, you might have to tweak things a bit. To me, the ideal set up is such that when the cut is made with the miter lock bit there two things that you want to achieve. First, you do not want the cut to reduce the width of the workpiece, and secone you want the top edge to be very sharp, like the edge of a knife. When you cut the opposing or matching part if should also meet the standards mentioned above for the first part. When this is achieved the fit is extremely nice and is achieveable with the Infinity set up jig, but a little bit of tweaking still might be required if your standards are high. 

I was getting some snipe when coming off of the in feed fence and after I learned to properly apply pressure to the workpieces as was described earlier in this thread, things just worked out perfectly. 

I'm anxious to try a cross grain cut and will do it when I finish with my current cedar chest project, which by the way is coming along pretty well.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Thanks Jerry. I've seen the Infinity jig, possibly because of your earlier post, and it looks like a real time saver for this bit's setup. I consider it a bit pricey for what it is but I guess they are charging a bit for R&D and it could pay itself off quickly if you use this type bit a lot. If you change board thickness a lot it should really help. I may buy one yet so thanks for the 1/2 thickness tip.

I don't like losing wood to a joint making bit either so I'll make a suggestion that you may want to try on your next project. Splines. You can cut the regular 45* miter and then spline the two sides. No wood is lost and if you use a contrasting wood for the spline, it makes a nice looking joint that will line up perfectly during the glue up. It is also a good way to edge laminate panels together if you want some extra strength. I know Stick will agree with me. He's the other member of the forum who regularly promotes the use of splines.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Thanks Jerry. I've seen the Infinity jig, possibly because of your earlier post, and it looks like a real time saver for this bit's setup. I consider it a bit pricey for what it is but I guess they are charging a bit for R&D and it could pay itself off quickly if you use this type bit a lot. If you change board thickness a lot it should really help. I may buy one yet so thanks for the 1/2 thickness tip.
> 
> I don't like losing wood to a joint making bit either so I'll make a suggestion that you may want to try on your next project. Splines. You can cut the regular 45* miter and then spline the two sides. No wood is lost and if you use a contrasting wood for the spline, it makes a nice looking joint that will line up perfectly during the glue up. It is also a good way to edge laminate panels together if you want some extra strength. I know Stick will agree with me. He's the other member of the forum who regularly promotes the use of splines.


Good post Charles,
My thinking at first blush would be this, if you are good with splines in mitered joints such as the styles in the cedar chest why would you ever spend your money on a miter lock bit other thaj just because you want one which is a very legitimist reason by the way.

I agree that the jig is very over priced, and I already lost my first one for the smaller bit and had to replace it, ouch!

I hadn't figured out yet how to cut a slot for a spline into the face of a 45 degree cut, will have to think about that for a bit. I know, or am pretty certain that you and Stick probably snicker at my absence of such knowledge as you well should in regard to your advanced knowledge of woodworking. I'm pretty sure that you will enlighten me on the matter now that it has come up and that would be appreciated by the way.

Jerry


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

The main thing is that you persevere and try new things, Jerry. Don't be too disappointed if it does not turn out perfect, the first time..... 

Rome was not built in a day..

I did not know how to use router skis until I joined the forum... [some may say I still don't........]


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## UlrichJ (Feb 16, 2012)

I have a friend who makes fancy boxes for a living. He has an old metal miter gauge that when he got it dialed into a perfect 45, had it welded in place. It is only used with the blade at 90 to cut the 45 miter on box ends.


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