# Boiled Linseed Oil, Then Poly???



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

So it’s come to my attention that products like Danish Oil and Seal a Cell are just a mixture of BLO / Varnish / Solvent. The BLO is the part that “pop” the grain. So for the heck of it for my next project I’m going to use just BLO then go to wipe on poly. For those of you that do this how long do you let the BLO dry before starting to apply poly? I’ve heard everything from 2 days to a week. 

Thanks!


----------



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Kristen,

From what I understand the Boiled part of BLO means it has dryers added to it. Maybe you are talking about raw linseed oil that takes a long time to dry? Of course this is all new to me so I'm not sure...


----------



## Thrifty Tool Guy (Aug 23, 2007)

Nick,

Try this link, http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=145&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=boiled+linseed+oil&match_type=

I've tried BLO several times as a wood sealer for shop benchtops and jigs. IMHO, it's the cheapest sealer you can find, but seems to leave an oily feel to the treated wood. 

It used to be the standard finish for field-grade gunstocks, due to the low luster and excellent sealing/waterproofing characteristics.

TTG


----------



## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

Boiled linseed oil does indeed contain metallic dryers(and it isn't boiled). When using BLO to accent the grain you apply it let it soak in for about 15-30 minutes and then thoroughly buff it off. It can be top coated as soon as the odor is gone. This is usually 2-7 days. It needs to have a film finish applied over it since oil offers no protection against wear or water vapor. One of my favorite finishes for cherry is BLO followed by freshly made garnet shellac. Try something other than polyurethane varnish, you might be pleasantly surprised.

Regards

Jerry


----------



## Thrifty Tool Guy (Aug 23, 2007)

Jerry,

Please explain your comment "offers no protection against wear or water vapor"? I'm not advocating BLO as an "easy-to-work-with" wood finish, but it is a traditional sealer/protectant for tool handles and gunstocks. On that basis, the oil appears to offer some protection, or so it was considered to have at one point in time.

Just a comment/question from a novice.

TTG


----------



## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

There is no finish that will stop water vapor,but most true film finishes will slow the penetration(of these shellac is the best against water vapor).Oil finishes will oxidize and flake off in time with out any handling. This natural process will be accelerated by handling. If you want to use oil because you like it or like how it looks (for a while) fine. My point was it is not much of a wood finish alone.

Regards

Jerry


----------



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

jerrymayfield said:


> Boiled linseed oil does indeed contain metallic dryers(and it isn't boiled). When using BLO to accent the grain you apply it let it soak in for about 15-30 minutes and then thoroughly buff it off. It can be top coated as soon as the odor is gone. This is usually 2-7 days. It needs to have a film finish applied over it since oil offers no protection against wear or water vapor. One of my favorite finishes for cherry is BLO followed by freshly made garnet shellac. Try something other than polyurethane varnish, you might be pleasantly surprised.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Jerry


Great stuff Jerry! I'm a complete newbie when it come to finishing. But I'm having fun learning...


----------

