# Routing small pieces



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

It seems of late that there has been many accidents, not just on this forum but, others as well. 

Many accidents occur while routing small pieces. Marc Sommerfeld shows this method far better than I could in his "Glass Panel Doors Made Easy" DVD. It IS what I do all the time. You simply take 2 push blocks, cut a profile in them that matches what you're needing for the small piece. 

Now, in the pics I'm posting, I created 2 push blocks with a T&G profile. I did the profiling backwards on purpose for hoping to show better clarity. I should've cut the length down but, I'm hoping you'll get the idea of the purpose.

Also, you can create a long push block for long and narrow pieces that sits on top of the piece and will allow you to keep it against the fence. Again, profile cut in on the sides, a stop block on the end to push the work piece through the bit.


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

Thanks for posting this.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Ken,

This is a great post on a subject much needed. There have been so many times that I run into a brick wall trying to think of a way to hold small pieces when routing on the table. This little lesson alone will help me thru those times and help avoid an accident.

Thanks for the awesome post!

btw.... we need to talk about that fence


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

"That's what I'm talking about!" Overkill, can't have too much of a good thing. I recently purchased $60 dollar sled to do just that operation. When I clamped the workpiece down (like I wanted it) the darn thing bowed up in the middle. So I made my own. Looked like your setup with a locking clamp on each side.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

I have been pushing Marc Sommerfled way for a long time, maybe now they will get it... no need for a sled..many,many router bits are matched so no need to readjust the bit height when you use Marc's way like you do with a sled  it takes two bits the norm to make a joint, the norm...

Thanks for posting this 

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Hamlin said:


> It seems of late that there has been many accidents, not just on this forum but, others as well.
> 
> Many accidents occur while routing small pieces. Marc Sommerfeld shows this method far better than I could in his "Glass Panel Doors Made Easy" DVD. It IS what I do all the time. You simply take 2 push blocks, cut a profile in them that matches what you're needing for the small piece.
> 
> ...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

For my small part, you're all welcome.  

This simple method will work with any profile. It's cheap to do and far less time is spent setting this type of setup to work. Rather some wish to believe it or not, if you think about it, you already have a "setup" for your profile bits already made.  As Bj pointed out, no fancy or expensive sled is needed as many believe.

Hi Bob, 
That "fence" is all that remains from my very first RT. It WAS a craftsmen, junk, only thing worth saving was the fence.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Maybe I will not have any accidents with the router using this.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I am going to be looking into this approach. I had planned on attaching a 12" ratcheting bar clamp to a 1x and using that for shorter pieces. I have a couple of 24" ones from Harbor Freight and it looks like the jaws are some kind of fiberglass filled plastic so if the bit hits it, things shouldn't be to bad. Any thoughts on this brainstorm? My brainstorms tend to be more thunder than lightning:wacko:.
Another one I'm working on is for plate inserts. I have been cutting the extra plate inserts from plexiglass. I have a piece of 3/4" pine cut as a template to the size of the hole in my table plate. When I want another insert for larger/smaller bit. I cut a piece of plexiglass into a square, slightly larger than the template. I then screw the plexi onto the template and use a pattern bit to trim it to size. Works pretty well but fingers closer to the bit than I like them to be.  Starting pin is just far enough away from the bit that if the bit grabs the thing it could jam between the bit and the pin. I have been forgoing the starting pin and adjusting the split fence to provide support. I am thinking of putting a hole in the center of the template and loosely attaching it to a piece of plywood. Clamp the ply to the table. This would allow me to rotate the template and plexi into the bit without needing a firm grip on it. 
Any thoughts?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi John,

Why take a chance that the clamp bar getting in the way? Even without a profile, simply using 2 push blocks sandwiching the work piece is enough to keep your fingers safe.

A hole saw may be your best solution for cutting your inserts.


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> It seems of late that there has been many accidents, not just on this forum but, others as well.
> 
> Many accidents occur while routing small pieces. Marc Sommerfeld shows this method far better than I could in his "Glass Panel Doors Made Easy" DVD. It IS what I do all the time. You simply take 2 push blocks, cut a profile in them that matches what you're needing for the small piece.
> 
> ...


Excellent article and a cheap to make push block.If we all think *safety* before we turn on the switch, we will all be able to count to 10 at the end of the day


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> Hi John,
> 
> Why take a chance that the clamp bar getting in the way? Even without a profile, simply using 2 push blocks sandwiching the work piece is enough to keep your fingers safe.
> 
> A hole saw may be your best solution for cutting your inserts.


Hi Ken - I was thinking in terms of something about 2" wide by 6" long, small pedestal perhaps. No specific project in mind, just exploring the possible variants. Making the profile on the larger piece and then cutting to width would work for one edge, actually, probably 3 edges, but that still leaves the 4th. 
Problem with a hole saw is that they are spec'd for the hole, not the insert. I use a hole saw to cut the inside opening. Circle cutter works but I haven't been real happy with the result. Starting a bit larger and sneaking up on the size with the router has been the only way I have found so far to achieve a nice interference fit in the table. I supose I could drill and tap the plate for #4or #6 machine screws but that raises a whole new set of issues about matching hole patterns.:bad:


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi John,

2" wide pieces can still be used in the sandwich method. Length wouldn't matter either, a single push block with an end block or stop block to catch & push the piece through the bit would still work just fine. 

For your inserts, if I may suggest, shoot Bobj3 a pm. He does have a method of doing just exactly what you're after and it's safe.


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