# Another newbie creating template



## Dvoigt (Mar 20, 2009)

Hello all,

I'm new to the whole router thing. I have the freud 1700 fix/plunge router. I have never used the plunge part of it, but I would like to make some inlays. I have the inlay kit for it with the 1/8" bit. 

I'm working on a cross design for an inlay and just want to make sure I'm thinking about this correctly. I see that someone has recently asked a simlar question so I'll try to not repeat the same thing.

So in my design I'm avoid sharp edges so I can avoid secondary work. So becuase I have a 1/8 bit that means that the sharpest corner I can have is 1/16 radius (1/8 dia) right? 

Then for the template that I want to create I will need to off that radius for the thickness the the inaly template (with that little collar thing on it). That will insure that I will be able to create a smooth radius. I'm not sure what offset my kit uses, I'll have to measure that when I get home.

Correct?


Thanks,

D


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI D

Here's two great tips from the pros. Bob and Rick , it should help you get the hang of it.. 

http://www.routerworkshop.com/inlays112.html
http://www.routerworkshop.com/revinlay.html

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Dvoigt said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I'm new to the whole router thing. I have the freud 1700 fix/plunge router. I have never used the plunge part of it, but I would like to make some inlays. I have the inlay kit for it with the 1/8" bit.
> 
> ...


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## Dvoigt (Mar 20, 2009)

Bob,

Thanks for the links, I have read both of those a while already and that is about where my knowledge ends.

I'm trying to make a template out of the creativity of my mind, and therefore don't have anything to reference against like they show in the second link.

I plan on creating the drawing, transferring that drawing to a piece of 1/4 MDF and then cut out the bulk of the profile and sand it the rest of the way.

I just don't want to go though all that work to find out that I didn't leave enough room for the radius and the shape doesn't come out quite right.... but I also don't want it to be too big because I would like it to be as sharp as possible.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi D

You sound not need sand them, once you have the template the inlay guides will do all the work , that's the neat thing about inlay guides, it will cut the pocket just right every time..here's a small tip,, put some fishing line across the pocket hole ( 2ea. tape it down in on the outside of the pocket hole) this will let you pull the insert out if it needs to be sanded just a little bit b/4 you put the glue in the hole to hold it in place..one more small note don't put glue to close to the edge of the pocket hole, you don't want it to come out all over the place, just takes a little bit to hold it down..a small brush works great for that job...

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Dvoigt said:


> Bob,
> 
> Thanks for the links, I have read both of those a while already and that is about where my knowledge ends.
> 
> ...


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## Dvoigt (Mar 20, 2009)

Sorry for the confusion, I meant sand the template to create the final shape that I'm looking for. Just to make sure it is symmetrical and even...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI D

I was almost sure that's what you where talking about,,
see the link below how to make the template,,
Router Workshop: reverse inlay

Once you have it cut out and sanded use the guide to make a real template with the guide..that way you know for sure the inlay part will fit just right..

The inlay guide will do all the work for you...you don't need to sand it the norm or to say just a little bit, to take off the bumps,,the guide will just copy the base pattern not the fine details (errors)...the guide will just float over them.. 

=======


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Dvoigt said:


> Sorry for the confusion, I meant sand the template to create the final shape that I'm looking for. Just to make sure it is symmetrical and even...


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings (your name here) and welcome to the forum, we are pleased that you would join us.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

D, if you would post a rough drawing of what you propose I'm sure that we will come up with exactly what you want.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

D, I believe your thinking is correct. If, for example, you think about moving the guide bushing around a square corner in a template, the cut being made will not be square, but will have the radius of the bit size. (One can't make a square corner with a round bit when doing interior cuts.) 

Thus, consideration for this "limitation" should be given when deciding on the inlay design. Otherwise, the inlay will scream "this was done with a router".

This differs from doing inlay and marquetry by hand, where the intricacy of the design is limited only by the skills of the woodworker and the sharpness of his/her tools.


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## Dvoigt (Mar 20, 2009)

harrysin said:


> D, if you would post a rough drawing of what you propose I'm sure that we will come up with exactly what you want.


I couldn't get the picture to post or put a link in this message since I'm new here, so I put the link in my signature below.

That is what I envision the final inlay to look like, the corners at the tips of the ends are all 1/8" in diameter to allow for the router bit.

So my plan is to offset this edge so that the inlay guide will ride though all the corners

Thanks
D


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## Doak (Mar 20, 2009)

D

What are the dimensions of the cross you wish to insert?

T


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## Dvoigt (Mar 20, 2009)

Doak said:


> D
> 
> What are the dimensions of the cross you wish to insert?
> 
> T



I'm working on a couple different sizes but the smallest one is about 4" high.


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