# Latest Inlay Project



## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Some of you know that I do inlays in end grained cutting boards for a local company and they are usually a monogram, wedding board, company logos, various other logos, ranch brands and boards for special events. Well the other day he sends me graphics for something a little different and asked if I can do it.

I look at it this way, I don't know if I can do it or not until I try, so I am trying.

The board is for "Chase Yur Dreams Foundation". Here is a link for Chase 'N Yur Face so you know what the organization is all about. Chase 'N Yur Face | Recipes, Reviews & Cooking Videos


Here is the picture he sent and the design layout I came up with to do the inlay.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Here is the day one work on the board.

I got the first pockets cut, inlays cut and glued into the board.

Need to let the glue dry over night so I can cut into the inlay.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

To start the next day I leveled the inlay so I could add more inlays.

Got the pockets cut, inlays cut and glued into the board.

Waiting for glue to dry again.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Glue dried fast so to finish up the day I leveled out the last inlays and cut the last wood inlays and glued them into the board.

Forgot to take pictures of the pockets. Getting in a hurry!

Epoxy inlays tomorrow!


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## beltramidave (Jan 6, 2016)

What method are you using for your inlays? Are you using Vectric software? Are you using a Vbit?
Looks like they are fitting very well.
Dave


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

beltramidave said:


> What method are you using for your inlays? Are you using Vectric software? Are you using a Vbit?
> Looks like they are fitting very well.
> Dave


I use Vectric Aspire but this could be done in Vcarve except for outputting pictures of the board with inlays installed.

I am doing this board with the straight inlay toolpaths for pocket and inlays. I am using a 0.0625" upcut end mill with 0.25" cut length and a 0.25" end mill for a large area clearance tool. This will also have epoxy inlays and I'll be using the 0.0625 end mill and a 45 deg V-bit for those inlays.

I do V-carve inlays if I need sharp points for the inlays but I also modified the procedure from what the Vectric tutorial shows, my machine would not cut the pockets and inlays good enough for a tight fit.

There are a couple of places on the lettering on this board that will need fixed but they are small and won't be a problem. There is a spot by the ear but that will also disappear before finish. 

I usually inlay end grained boards with end grained inlays but his board is straight grained and will be a display only board. A usable board will also be made to present with this board.


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## subtleaccents (Nov 5, 2011)

Very nice work. I have never done this with wood but used this technique many times with Corian for vanity tops and shower wet walls.

Again, very nice, I like your work.

I guess I should invest in Aspire in the near future to expand my capabilities.

My problem is I have a hard time learning new CadCam programs. (Slow learner)


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

subtleaccents said:


> Very nice work. I have never done this with wood but used this technique many times with Corian for vanity tops and shower wet walls.
> 
> Again, very nice, I like your work.
> 
> ...


This could be done with Vectric VCarve software so if you don't need 3d capabilities for making 3d models you could save money.

You can download a trial version of any of Vectric software here: Vectric Ltd - Trial Software

That way you can see how easy it is to use.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

MEBCWD - That's my Vectric/CNC go to guy when I need a quick answer to questions. Got a lot more patience than I'll ever have.

How long you been working with Aspire, Mike? Version 2.something isn't it. Now they're on version 8.5

HJ


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

I got Aspire when it was v 2.00, they have made a change or two along the way to v 8.511. Some of the things that took me about a week then can now be done in two or three hours. 

If you were using VCarve Pro back when I first started you had to do 3d jobs by creating toolpaths in Cut 3d or 3d Machinist then import them into the job. Then if you wanted to make changes you had to go back to the Cut 3d or 3d Machinist.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Well after some testing today I cut the board for the black epoxy inlay and have it poured. Kind of a mess and I noticed a couple of spots that have shrunk a little too much so they will need some touch up but I expect a few other places to show up when I sand it all down.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

I spent a little while today leveling the black epoxy inlays and added epoxy fill where some areas had shrunk and there were bubbles. Watched the Cowboy's game, played with my great granddaughter for awhile and then went back to the shop and checked on the epoxy touch-ups. They had set up enough that I leveled them out and carved the pockets for the white epoxy. I got in a hurry and did not get pictures of the pockets but I did remember to get pictures of the epoxy filled holes.


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## beltramidave (Jan 6, 2016)

Mike,

When doing inlays on top of inlays, are you leaving the piece on your machine the whole time?

Also, how are you removing the excess inlay material, are you sanding or surfacing the entire piece each time?

Do you make your own colored epoxy somehow?

Sorry for all the questions, just amazed at all the work that goes into this. Looks great, though!

Dave


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Dave I use limit blocks to locate the board on the bed and never re-zero the X axis or Y axis. That way I can remove the board, work on it, then put it back on the CNC and have it centered. I could have used a larger spoil board and double stuck MDF blocks to the board but in this case I just grabbed these Rockler stop blocks off my Piranha. *Then the trick is to remember not to re-zero the axes.* To locate blanks for inlay cutting I move the blank around under the bit to get it close to the center where I will cut the inlay out of the blank then use a square on the edge of the spoil board to square up the blank. Inlay blanks centering only has to be close and not perfect. *Big problem is this does tie up your machine until you finish the last inlay.*

To level the inlays I use MDF sanding blocks with sticky back sandpaper starting with 80 grit and finish with 220 grit (80, 100, 150, 180, 220) then finish up with a quick random orbital 220 grit once over. After the last inlay is installed and leveled I will spend a little more time with the random orbital sander to make sure everything is smooth and ready for finish. Then it will go to the cutting board company for finish before delivery.

For these epoxy inlays I am using Stick Fast 5 minute epoxy (12 hour full cure) and Jimmy Clewes Synthetic Sand for the coloring. I prefer more open time on my epoxy because it is easier to mix enough to fill everything and fill it all than have to mix small batches to fill what you can before the epoxy sets. It is a bad idea to continue filling when the epoxy starts to set because you don't get good adhesion of the inlay then have to dig it out of the project. On small accent inlays like these I also use syringes with small tips to fill the pockets so mixing small batches with 5 minute epoxy requires more syringes and tips.

No problem with all the questions, just reminds me to tell everyone how I did everything.

I never did tell what woods I am using. For the face and ears I choose Sapele, for the hair eye brows and pupils I used Ipe, lips are Jarrah, and the iris of the eye is Nogal. Also the epoxy inlays, black for accents and the white for teeth and whites of the eye and eye highlights.


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## subtleaccents (Nov 5, 2011)

MEBCWD said:


> I spent a little while today leveling the black epoxy inlays and added epoxy fill where some areas had shrunk and there were bubbles. Watched the Cowboy's game, played with my great granddaughter for awhile and then went back to the shop and checked on the epoxy touch-ups. They had set up enough that I leveled them out and carved the pockets for the white epoxy. I got in a hurry and did not get pictures of the pockets but I did remember to get pictures of the epoxy filled holes.


One thing that helped me with the epoxy inlay material to avoid air bubbles from appearing after the cure was to make a small vacuum chamber to put the mixed epoxy in. It draws the air to the top of the mix.
Just make the chamber large enough to hold the mixing cups you use. I have one that I made and one that I bought that uses compressed air to make the vacuum and has a paddle to stir the mixture as the vacuum draws the bubbles to the surface.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

I use my vacuum system when I am pouring a quantity of resin but with this 5 minute epoxy you don't have time to use it. That is one reason I like a 30 min epoxy so you have that extra open time. I was on a short deadline for this board and did not have the time to drive around and find what I wanted and this or another 5 minute epoxy was all they carry. With the addition of the sand I was using for color the mixture is pretty thick so it doesn't flow very well. I use a syringe to fill the pockets to make sure it get to the bottom and has good contact with the sides.

Here is what I was using.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

I just had a few small bubbles and spots to fill.

I'm happy with it so he is coming to pick it up in the morning. He will add the finish before he delivers the board.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Here is a comparison of the design file and the finished board.

The colors on the board will brighten up when the finish is applied.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Very nice job, Mike.


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## beltramidave (Jan 6, 2016)

Very Nice!!


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Well the customer dropped off 3 more jobs and picked up the board today. He is really happy with how it turned out. I told him he needed to post some good pictures after he is through with the clear finish. When he gets them posted I'll share them here.

It was fun doing something out of the ordinary.


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## Jbird22 (Oct 24, 2016)

That is impressive! Great job!


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

I'm not sure that I could get that precise in matching the inletting with the inlay. My complements on the project.


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