# Free-standing closet : unusual approach?



## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hello

I'd like some guidance for constructing the frame for a large free-standing closet/wardrobe, onto which I will attach the cladding. I figure I have to design the frame, however have no idea where to start on this - despite getting out 8 library books on cabinet construction, and endless Google searches. Am I trying to do something so unusual?

My next big project (I've just completed a king-single bed for my daughter, and almost finished the dining table) is a large, free-standing wardrobe. I've constructed some built-in wardrobes in our house, however the new wardrobe will be free-standing for a number of reasons. Our house is old (for New Zealand (!) - it's over 100 years old) so is constructed almost entirely of native timber. It has exposed wooden floors, ceilings, door/window frames, doors.... As I love working in native, recycled timber (and we have some beautiful sorts in NZ) I plan to make the wardrobe/closet from some native timber I recently prepared for the project. 

So my plan is to construct a frame (probably of something cheap, like pine) and then use the rimu (currently in boards 140 x 12mm) to clad the frame. I'll clearly have to make some doors too. I assume the cladding won't be too tricky - however clearly the frame must be right, in order to bear the weight of the cladding, stay true etc. Is there a method one follows - perhaps a rectangular 'base' frame, which is connected to a similar top frame via vertical members? Diagonal bracing required? Extra verticals on corners?

The basic plan at this stage is to have the wardrobe/closet about 2.6m tall (our house has a 3.3m stud), 0.6m deep, and 1.2m wide - so it's quite a big unit. It'll have a set of main doors, which extend from the bottom up to about the two-thirds point. There will be a much smaller door above each main door, which accesses a separate (from interior closet space) storage area for less frequently used items. I've got no idea about a base, however it's probably a very good idea that it sits on legs as the wooden floor isn't that even - so some adjustment would be good!

Any help would be much appreciated!

Cheers,

Matthew
Auckland, NZ.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

To start I'd consider making it as 2 separate units. The bottom 2/3, and the top 1/3.
Seeing as it's so tall, it might be easier to handle this way.
Why not glue your 12mm wood into panels and use a similar construction technique as this.
Woodworking Project - Antique Wardrobe


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi Gavin

Thanks for the reply. It was my intention to build it as two separate units - great minds think alike! I figured that it'd be easier to construct, easier to move and if we ever move to a house with a lower stud, we could just remove the top unit. I'd like it to look like it's one unit, so will have to do some work around the 'join' to that it's obscured. I'll also have to attach the two units together - and probably the entire unit to the wall, given the height and relatively small footprint. 

I had a quick look at the link - looks like a nice job - however it's constructed from panels rather than a frame, which is then clad. I guess I could construct a solid wood carcass from something like 6mm MDF, and then clad that - however it'll get awfully heavy! That's why I figured a frame would be best. Also, am not sure that 6mm MDF would be stiff enough for such a large item - although I guess with the cladding on top, it would end up stiff enough to avoid racking etc.

I'm trying to stay away from glueing all the cladding into panels and constructing from solid panels, as that's a method I've used before and would like to try something new. Plus, given the constraints of my workshop (it's very small!) the large panels are too tricky to deal with. 

Matthew


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If your cladding is well attached to the frame, it should resist racking almost as well as a panel. The big issue then would be expansion and contraction. If each board were attached independently of the rest that wouldn't be a problem (e.g. lap joint or T&G). Diagonal would be a bit stronger and could be a good design element. One common method for joining top to bottom is to make the top slightly larger with a molding at the bottom that will overlap the top 10-20 mm of the bottom section.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi Chuck - I did intend to use ship lap for joining the boards, to permit cross grain expansion/contraction. It's only cross grain expansion I need to worry about - right? I'd be able to fix the ends of the boards, top and bottom - to the frame - with nails or similar - correct?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

There is virtually no movement in the length although I have never heard the reason why. Nails and screws both seem to allow more movement than gluing. If your boards are narrow, say less than 75mm wide, you could probably glue them and not have cracking. Otherwise, pin nails, brad nails, or small finishing nails if you are hammering them in should work. You might want to try and incorporate a moulding to cover the nail heads.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Matt, you might consider building a base cabinet with drawers and then a wardrobe cabinet to sit on top of it for hanging clothing. An early American version of this had stubby legs underneath, a wide base with the wardrobe covering half the width and a mirror mounted over the other half. Food for thought.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Thanks for the suggestion Mike, however it's not so much the form of the wardrobe that I'm after (I've pretty much decided that) - it's whether or not it's feasible to construct a frame and then clad it.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I don't think it will be a problem to make them using the method you're thinking of.
It's a common method in caravans for instance, although they skin them with lighter material.
I guess you just need to consider what you will do at the corners, maybe mitre ?
If you google 'framed and skinned cabinets' you'll see a few pics of the method being used.
Such as this.
Bruce Osborn's Tiny Travel Trailer


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi Gavin - thanks for that - finally some terms to search that may result in what I'm after! That certainly looks more like what I want to do. The corners are a good point - although in the pictures linked too (I've attached one here, highlighted) there's quite a clever way of dealing with the corners - essentially two stiles, each with one rail into it. Twin stiles will give strength at the corners, and more area to attach corner capping...


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