# Dust boxes effectiveness revisited



## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Yesterday I edge profiled some MDF which is notorious for dust and there was a stack of dust below the table so after searching the web I found this "V" shaped design (see pic below) surrounding the router. I just slid in two pieces of plywood at an angle and sealed them and other gaps with blue tape. There is a dust port and small hose leading to the bottom of that "V" shape as well as a dust hose to the fence and a smaller hose coming straight off Tritons dust port to my shop vac. The improvement was staggering. Virtually no dust below and above.

What that told me was that maybe enclosing the router is the way to go. Four of five years ago when Incra released the cleansweep there was a lot of sceptisim and concern about routers overheating etc but that has subsided and they seem common place now. Is that what others feel?

I have seen 2 main designs. Rockler and an Aussie brand (Timbecon) have boxes with dust ports on the side and adjustable air vents on the other side, whereas the Cleansweep has no air vents and a dust port right at the bottom. I've watched all the Incra videos including the one where dado mess was practically gone.

So my questions .....

Are they now considered a good safe idea without routers overheating etc?
Are they really effective for edge work?
Are the Incra Cleansweep rings necessary for a dust box?
Will other rings (woodpecker) with large openings work just as well?
Is a side dust port and opposing air vent better than bottom dust ports?

Basically what is the general consensus on dust collection boxes?

I forgot to say and before someone asks, that 4" dust hose coming from the cap of the router acts like a snorkel getting fresh air from the compartment below. Keeps dust out of the vents. Got the idea from the Woodworkers forum in Aussie land.


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## Terry Q (Mar 2, 2017)

barri said:


> So my questions .....
> 
> Are they now considered a good safe idea without routers overheating etc?
> Are they really effective for edge work?
> ...




I don't think overheating is a problem so long as you are using dust collection. The amount of air being sucked through keeps the router plenty cool. The vents on the side helps in situations where the hole is mostly covered as when routing dados.

By themselves I don't think they would be as effective as when used in conjunction with through the fence suction, but if you leave big enough of a gap around the bit you should get the majority of the dust, although there is always some wood chips that get shot across the table. 

I have plastic rings on my table and drilled some extra holes in them to help with dust collection and it helps. I think it is a better option then increasing the size of the opening in the ring. 

The problem with big openings around the bit is the workpiece getting caught on the lip of the hole. Generally, I try to keep the opening as small as possible just as I do the opening in the fence.

I have two of the Rockler ones. They do a fairly decent job emptying the sawdust although it seems to leave a small amount in the corner blocked by the cord. Don't know about the Incra.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I've had the Rockler box in place for several years and it does a pretty good job of containing the sawdust, although I think the 2.5 inch fitting on the fence is likely more important. I have the Woodpecker plate with the twist lock inserts and a set of inserts with small to wide openings. Keeping the fitting tight is helpful, but makes the fence DC more important. The Rockler box has a variable vent to make sure air is flowing. I have a 4 inch connector on the back of that box. 

I recently changed my table router from a 1617 to a Triton, and the Rockler box is a bit too snug, so I'll be doing something like what you've done to enclose the router, but it will be closed. I did have extra holes drilled in the prior Rockler plate for a little extra dust removal, and it helped some. But I still had to sweep the dust aside frequently to keep it from lifting the workpiece up slightly as it builds up. I am very fussy about dust collection and think the 4 inch hose should go to the fence, as you have it.


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

John is this your router table or a photo you saw? If its yours who's fence is that? N


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## CAD-Man (Apr 28, 2013)

neville9999 said:


> John is this your router table or a photo you saw? If its yours who's fence is that? N


That is a Woodpecker Super Fence and it looks like he has the Jessem Clear-Cut Stock Guides. I have the same set up but also included the Micro adjust that attaches to the back of the fence.

Cad-Man


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

neville9999 said:


> John is this your router table or a photo you saw? If its yours who's fence is that? N


This is mine Neville.

I had a home made table and fence and while it did a good job I decided to upgrade to a proper table with a Woodpecker insert plate and Woodpecker fence and yes they are the Jessem stock guides. The're brilliant by the way. The subfences with T tracks are my own. The ones that come with the superfence don't have a track and the red t track in the pic above is too high for the Jessem guides. I could install them straight on to the metal fence but I really wanted to use subfences.
.
Tom, when you said "it will be closed" did you mean your new box will have no holes other than a dust port. 

I ask that because I'm now thinking of making my own. After measuring, the only commercially available box that fits is the Rockler and their delivery costs to Australia are fairly high. The advantage of the Rockler is it has an adjustable air vent. Did you use that vent Tom? Also you said the Triton was snug. Unacceptably snug? Do you mean it was difficult to get to the knobs and switches? Do you have the big Triton like I do?

I do like the look of the Rockler and I'm unsure whether to order or not but at least making my own I'll get an exact fit. I'll probably use 1/2" Ply to keep the weight down. Anyone want to comment on the effectiveness of the Rockler box, with a big Triton, or their home made version?


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## Jidis (Aug 22, 2015)

I built and have been running a sealed box for about twenty five years. I'm having a heat issue with my router at the moment, but it has something to do with my recent repacking of the bearings or reassembly. It's been fine up until that, and under most operations I never even get to see the dust. If the fence is way far back I can get some, but that's sort of a given and I rarely need to do that. I'm not sure I run mine as continuously as some of you guys, so it's possible I'd have had heat issues if it were on for longer periods.

Oddly, when I made that, I don't think I even gave much thought to the increased suction from the fewer air gaps, but had the same goal as I was trying to seal off as much as I could. I actually did it for noise reduction, as I was feeling guilty about how loud the machine might be next door and how irritating it was to me. The interior is lined with a two inch layer of painted foam, and there's weatherstripping around the door. 
I guess if anybody's was going to overheat, it would have been mine. :grin:


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Is there a dustport below the table Jidis?


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

The other question I forgot to ask was, if I buy/build a box do I then remove Triton's dust port and surrounding perspex shields. In my second pic above you'll see a vac hose coming out of the back of the table. It's connected to Triton's port. I could incorporate that by drilling a hole into my new box and sealing around that hose or is that overkill as the sealed box should take care of that?? I'm fairly new to all of this and I've read so many threads that I'm ending up with more questions than answers. I'm slightly leaning towards the Rockler box but keen to hear from someone who has this box and the big Triton router and how they fit and work together.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Hi, The new box will have a variable opening of some sort to allow air flow when it's running. I may cut the opening off the metal box or find another way of allowing air flow. By closed , I mean it will have a door on front so I can reach in and lock the router height and operate the interlock on the on off switch. I will have to change my Y splitter tjat attaches to the DC hose. My shop is a little tight, so I have a 90 degree turn coming out the back of the box so it fits closer to the wall, then the Y splitter. I'll add a bracket to support the connections in back so when I put the movable hose on it, It will get some extra support.

The variable air port does help with pulling sawdust out of the box. I suspect it also cools the router to have that air flow.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Thanks for that Tom. You mentioned your Triton was snug in the Rockler box. Were you still able to do access all knobs?


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

DesertRatTom said:


> Hi, The new box will have a variable opening of some sort to allow air flow when it's running. I may cut the opening off the metal box or find another way of allowing air flow. By closed , I mean it will have a door on front so I can reach in and lock the router height and operate the interlock on the on off switch. I will have to change my Y splitter tjat attaches to the DC hose. My shop is a little tight, so I have a 90 degree turn coming out the back of the box so it fits closer to the wall, then the Y splitter. I'll add a bracket to support the connections in back so when I put the movable hose on it, It will get some extra support.
> 
> The variable air port does help with pulling sawdust out of the box. I suspect it also cools the router to have that air flow.


Tom,

Putting the 90° fitting before the Y is a great idea. I have the same space problem, having to keep the table away from the wall and then move it so I can attach the dust hose. I'm going to look at that when I get out in the shop later. One question though - I have the "splitter" sold by Rockler , 2-1/2" x 4", but they only have it in 90° and not a Y. Where did you find the Y fitting? Thanks.


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## Jidis (Aug 22, 2015)

barri said:


> Is there a dustport below the table Jidis?


John,

No, when I made that I wasn't aware of any of that sort of stuff, but reading this thread and looking at some of the products that are out now, I may start thinking about it. I'm cleaning up a big plunge router to put in there soon, so it would be a good time to check all that.

Take Care


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

tomp913 said:


> Tom,
> 
> Putting the 90° fitting before the Y is a great idea. I have the same space problem, having to keep the table away from the wall and then move it so I can attach the dust hose. I'm going to look at that when I get out in the shop later. One question though - I have the "splitter" sold by Rockler , 2-1/2" x 4", but they only have it in 90° and not a Y. Where did you find the Y fitting? Thanks.


Tom, you could use an ordinary 4" Y splitter then a 4" to 2-1/2" adaptor at the dust port on the fence. Have a look at the pic on my original post on this thread. You can't see it but at the end of the 4" hose behind the fence I have screwed that adaptor. Rockler have those... Hose Reducer-Reducers | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware

John


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

@barri

Yes, I figured that out after I did another look. if it keeps going, I'll have $100 worth of fittings and adapters back there. I'm going to follow up on DesertRatTom's suggestion about putting the 90° elbow first at the output from the box, then the "T" I already have (or the 4 x 2-1/2 Y I need to buy, with the 4 x 2-1/2 adapter I'd also have to buy) to adapt to the 2-1/2 hose coming from the back of the fence and then check that the Disconnect handle on the end of the DC hose fits on whatever it is that I wind up at the end. Really need dust collection, but it can be a PITA sometimes to get it the way you want it.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

tomp913 said:


> @barri
> 
> I'll have $100 worth of fittings and adapters back there.


It adds up doesn't it? I'd hate to put a price on all the blast gates, elbows, Y's, hoses, adapters etc.

DesertRatTom (the other Tom) Are you out there? I'm not buying the Rockler dust box until you advise on how tight and functional the big Triton is in that box. If its too tight then that may lead to overheating and inaccessibility of all knobs.

John


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

I've actually found a box on Youtube that would work perfectly for me including that snorkel hose shown in my first post. I would have the main dust hose coming from the bottom of the box instead of from the top as he has it. All boxes I've seen including Rockler and Incra have hoses coming from the bottom . Anyway I decided to make my own. Cheaper and I know it will exactly fit. I'll post a pic when done and comment on its effectiveness.






Have a look at his amazing pegboard. Truly a work of art.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Nice box design - I may have to go that route (no pun intended) if I decide to move up to the Triton in my router table and it turns out to be too tight for the Rockler sheet metal box.

Between playing with my new lawnmower, I got a chance to look at the fittings on the back of my router table. I switched the T-fitting and 90° as suggested by @DesertRatTom - great suggestion, I picked up about 8" of floor space by being able to move the router table closer to the other workbench, and there's just enough clearance to reach in and connect the DC hose without moving anything. The assembly can rotate on the 90°, and is dragged down by the DC hose - I can't see that being a problem, but I can always put a little support bracket under the fitting if it bothers me too much. I'm going to stay with the T-splitter for the moment as it seems to do OK with pulling the sawdust off the top of the table.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Tom, I only have a 2 HP dust collector and found that a "Y" fitting really does make a difference compared to a "T" . It provides a smoother flow. Ask someone to buy it for you on your next birthday. Also I've added a blast gate and I might add another so that I can get suction just at the fence for edge work or fence and underneath. If I add another one I can turn off the fence suction and just have it underneath for dado work but as you've said buying more dust adaptors is getting ridiculous


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

OK box finished and it works well. My cabinet opening, housing the router is 14" wide whereas the Rockler box is 13" which would have made it too tight to use the quick adjust knob. So made the box fit exactly in that opening. Couldn't put a vent on the side so put it at the front. Also used some weather stripping so that the door closes without dust getting out. As I really couldn't mount a vent on the side I put it on the door. I added a blast gate so that I can block off suction to the fence when doing dados. The final result is great. Edge work leaves no dust. Dado work does leave some on the top but it doesn't shoot out like it used to. A huge improvement. When I saw the videos of the cleansweep I was sceptical but I can now see how Incra's cleansweep works with its specialised rings. I still utilised that snorkel like hose which draws fresh air from the compartment below. See the video above. It may be overkill but it makes me feel more comfortable about overheating and looking after my router. Its not perfect but in general I'm very pleased and it was fun to make and cost me nearly nothing. The vent was $5.00 AUD:smile:


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

@barri

Looks good, you've put a lot of work into that and it seems to be paying off. I just talked to Marc at Sommerfeld Tools, and he told me that the P-C router I have in my table should be fine for his tongue & groove bits so I guess I'll go ahead and do some updates to my existing system since I don't have to buy a new router. Looks like a Y-fitting needs to be on my shopping list - I notice that you have the 4 x 2-1/2 adapter at the fence with a 4" hose running to the Y, do you think that's the way to go rather than leaving the 2-1/2" hose at the fence and putting the adapter at the Y?


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

The only reason I did that Tom was that I had plenty of spare 4" hose and no 2-1/2" hose. No scientific theory. I also had a few adaptors including that one that came with my dust collector as part of a kit. To answer your question I think its better this way as the choke point (4" down to 2-1/2") happens at the fence not further back. I also found that a wider gap at the bit helped a lot despite everyone talking about zero clearance. I have a blast gate going into the cabinet as well so I can control flow from the box doing edge work and I've found having that gate half way gives more flow from the fence and provides a good balance. Its all about experimenting.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Speaking of experimenting. I just tried various combinations of blast gates and different fence widths. I firstly tried a dado with the fence hose shut off and the fences closed. Brilliant results. A tiny bit of dust on the table most of which was sucked back during the cut. In fact I was able to just sweep that into the router opening and it was sucked away. None on the floor. Last time I did that everything in my garage was covered with dust including the cars. Checked the box. Nothing. Did an edge cut with all hoses on and a large fence width. Very good again. Turned off suction to the box so jut the fence hose was working and it was a bit worse but still way better than before I made the box. It seems with edge cuts that both hoses need to be on to get the best efficiency. Did a few more dados with the fence open and closed and found the fence closed works best. After about 10 cuts I checked the box. There was a small pile of dust in the corner closest to the vent. I just swept that into the box hose and it was gone. Not sure what difference the vent makes but I thought I'd include it as that's what Rockler has done. Tomorrow I'll try it with the vent on and off. That might prevent the small pile in the corner. I think If I had the Cleansweep rings my results would even be better. Might have to modify one of my blank rings.

Anyway very pleased and its made the whole exercise worthwhile. Dust boxes really do work


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

@barri

I was making a couple of drawers the other day and noticed that the sawdust was building up in the box when I had the door open to loosen/tighten the elevation lock. I must have moved the setting on the vent - it was almost completely closed - opening it to about half cleaned the box out very quickly, so it's definitely important to adjust the vent for best operation. BTW, did you notice the hand-made vent in the video that you posted? -very ingenious.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

barri said:


> Thanks for that Tom. You mentioned your Triton was snug in the Rockler box. Were you still able to do access all knobs?


Yes I can, but it is really tight and I had to fiddle with the placement on the plate to get it to work. The problem for me is the relatively unfinished edges on the box opening. Had Chemo and the skin on the back of my hand is pretty fragile and I've scraped and sliced my hand several times pulling out of the box. Tired of walking around with big bandages on my hand. My plan is to make a much larger box of ply to go around the Triton. It will have a big door on front. I have to re do the back of the table to do it, but it will be worth it. 

Someone asked about where I got the Y fitting, but I don't remember. The right angle fitting came from Rockler. It has a rubber connector on the end you attach to the output port, then cinch it down tight once it's placed right. A guy at the local Rockler came up with that product and introduced it to me. I have at least 3 of them because they're so handy. I also have a large box filled with connectors that were off sized or from failed, home made DC efforts. I have Rockler hoses, so everything has to fit those. I used an opaque hose that is failrly ridgid between the Y connector and fence since it doesn't have to move much, and it doesn't collapse with suction in use. I THINK it improves air flow.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

I don't know how I missed it, but Rockler apparently sells a 4 x 2-1/2 Y-fitting 4" to 2-1/2" "Y" Dust Fitting | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware so I'll be able to replace the existing T-fitting with no additional fittings or adapters required, although I'm considering adding a 2-1/2" blast gate to the hose from the fence so that I can isolate that when I'm not using the fence - looks as if I'd have to add some type of bracket to the back of the table to mount it, but that will actually help to hold up the assembly as the weight of the 4" hose from the DC rotates it towards the floor. 

The rubber connectors are nice - convenient - I have them on the 90° elbows at the output on the table saw as well as the router table. Just realized though that I will have to buy another fitting - a 4" connector - as the Y-fitting doesn't have the rubber connector like the T that I have. Oh well, what's another $20 in the big picture....

I'll have to look at the snorkel tube through the bottom of the collector to the end of the router too, going to be hard work cutting the Rockler box though as it's pretty heavy gauge metal. Wonder if a smaller hole to suit the small end of a 4 x 2-1/2 adapter would work, as I may have a hole saw that size? It would choke the flow a little, but it's only cooling air so may not matter - what do you think?.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

tomp913 said:


> I'll have to look at the snorkel tube through the bottom of the collector to the end of the router too, going to be hard work cutting the Rockler box though as it's pretty heavy gauge metal. Wonder if a smaller hole to suit the small end of a 4 x 2-1/2 adapter would work, as I may have a hole saw that size? It would choke the flow a little, but it's only cooling air so may not matter - what do you think?.


That would work Tom. 

I got the idea for the snorkel hose from an Aussie web site Incra CleanSweep - Page 3. I've heard that most of the repairs on the Tritons have been as a result of too much dust in the vents. The guy that sold me the router even told me to vacuum out the vents once every 3 or 4 weeks depending on usage but when I first saw the snorkel hose and had it explained, it made sense. Protect the vents from surrounding dust and allow them fresh air from a dust free area. It was very fiddly to get the hose to fit to fit over the end cap as I had to have a few strategically placed cut outs. 

Having said that, I really don't know if its needed as cool air is coming from the dust port but it makes me sleep better at night knowing its there. :wink: Incra's cleansweep design, which doesn't utilise a snorkel hose, with the dust port at the bottom allows for cool air to flow round the vents and I haven't heard any problems with routers overheating or breaking down.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

I took a quick look at the router (PC6902V) that I have in my table, and the body is not in anyway smooth (the On-Off toggle switch is right at the end, as well as the speed control) so getting the hose on there is going to be a challenge. Just what I need. It's no wonder that I can't get anything accomplished, keep getting sidetracked on little "projects". My next one is going to need a bunch of dadoes cut across the cabinet top and bottom - was thinking about that while I was working on the current project, and found myself making a jig while the glue was drying (and then some). But at least I have it ready for when I start the job.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Ok I've got dados sorted. I tried it with a wider opening ring (no suction at the fence) and a 1/4" bit and later a 1/2" bit and basically didn't get any dust anywhere. It was near perfect. So while many have said that you should have a narrow opening ring, I think I'll stick with wider when doing dados

What I haven't sorted out yet is edge profiling. Should I use a narrow opening rings or stick with wider? Should I have all suction at the fence or some in the box as well? So those of you who have a Rockler box (both Toms) or some sort of enclosure and do edge profiling, what ring do you use and do you have suction at both spots and do you open your vent?


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

If profiling a straight edge, using the fence works. An odd shaped part may be better with a separate box clamped to the top of the table.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I have pretty much stuck to a pretty tight fitting insert, but still get dust buildup between the workpiece and plate. This causes pieces to lift up slightly. So I'm going to start using a looser insert, per your suggestion. I used to have a couple of extra half inch holes in the Rockler plate, but the Woodpecker plate is intact and insert changes are easy. I have the full set of inserts so finding an appropriate fit will be easy.


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## denlev (Feb 22, 2010)

Hi Barri

Firstly let me say that the 4" flexible pipe attached to router motor cap to provide clean air to the router is an excellent idea if making your own box and want it sealed. A boxed in router without it will be sucking dirty air through the router motor. I'm actually a Triton Retailer in the UK and often get asked about building in around router to collect dust and always tell users to at least put an adjustable air vent in for the router. They produce a lot of heat when worked hard and draw their air through the vents in black motor cover and expel through side slots at other end. One customer burnt out three routers in a short space of time and returned under warranty. He gave a really bad review. It was only by chance, he sent a picture, I found out he had been using a "shroud", can't remember make, literally wrapped around the router covering the vents so extremely limited air was getting to the router, I sent him an invoice for three routers but heard no more. The air blast coming out of router also aids dust extraction from router and fence by blowing upwards and outwards. Making your own is straight forward and custom built to your needs. With MDF I always extract on all points, router, fence and box (if attached) and use a slightly larger top ring on table to help clear dust. I'm in the middle of redoing mine having moved on to the latest Triton TWX7 set up and got a lot of MDF work coming up. Be interested to know what sealers you guys use for MDF prior to painting, want to get a good finish. Making some "faux" wall panelling for my hall way, not really done much MDF work requiring a good painted finish.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Dennis, I haven't sealed the box as I'm too lazy too paint it but if I did I would use a general primer, nothing specific. As for the snorkel hose, I won't take credit for it but found it on an Aussie web site and it did make sense. Like you my retailer said all of his repairs were based around those vents and adequate ventilation. Even vacuuming those vents was worth doing.


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

barri said:


> This is mine Neville.
> 
> I had a home made table and fence and while it did a good job I decided to upgrade to a proper table with a Woodpecker insert plate and Woodpecker fence and yes they are the Jessem stock guides. The're brilliant by the way. The subfences with T tracks are my own. The ones that come with the superfence don't have a track and the red t track in the pic above is too high for the Jessem guides. I could install them straight on to the metal fence but I really wanted to use subfences.
> .
> ...


I know nice when I see it, that fence is nice. N


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## wkearney99 (Oct 12, 2016)

I haven't routed any MDF while using it, but the Milescraft dust collar seems to work pretty well.

web link: (as I can't yet post URLs) amzn.to/2xfLYjd

It's a silicone collar that fits around the shaft and velcro attaches to the underside of the plate. I've got mine in-between a PC router in a Jessem router lift 2. The silicone is flexible enough to not be in the way at all during bit changes and such. It makes an effective enough connection that there's no dust escaping below it. The one big challenge is cleanly cutting the acetate sheet they provide for the underside of the router plate. Took a bit of time to cut out all the various mounting holes the Jessem needs.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

I looked at those but didn't like the T junction as they don't provide the most effective air flow but they are a good alternative for those not wanting to build a box. The thinner hose makes it more suitable for a shop vac than a dust collector. A 4" to 2-1/2" drop on a dust collector really chokes the flow.


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## wkearney99 (Oct 12, 2016)

barri said:


> I looked at those but didn't like the T junction as they don't provide the most effective air flow but they are a good alternative for those not wanting to build a box. The thinner hose makes it more suitable for a shop vac than a dust collector. A 4" to 2-1/2" drop on a dust collector really chokes the flow.


I swapped out their hose for one from a Festool Kapex. Works quite well. But then I already have a bunch of Festool gear, and often use my CT36 to handle the router table.

As for 'chokes the flow', I suppose you have to consider just how wide an opening you have available at the bit/fence. That and keeping the motor housing from being constantly surrounded by/ingesting fine dust seems like a win. I'm certainly not going to insist one way is better or worse than another, just noting I've had some success with the Milescraft setup.


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## Steven Owen (Aug 14, 2017)

When you have a router table in a lift you have to build a box for dust collection. Rockler’s dust bucket does incorporate a fresh air vent. Incra’s uses it’s top port to vent air.


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

denlev said:


> Hi Barri
> 
> Firstly let me say that the 4" flexible pipe attached to router motor cap to provide clean air to the router is an excellent idea if making your own box and want it sealed. A boxed in router without it will be sucking dirty air through the router motor. I'm actually a Triton Retailer in the UK and often get asked about building in around router to collect dust and always tell users to at least put an adjustable air vent in for the router. They produce a lot of heat when worked hard and draw their air through the vents in black motor cover and expel through side slots at other end. One customer burnt out three routers in a short space of time and returned under warranty. He gave a really bad review. It was only by chance, he sent a picture, I found out he had been using a "shroud", can't remember make, literally wrapped around the router covering the vents so extremely limited air was getting to the router, I sent him an invoice for three routers but heard no more. The air blast coming out of router also aids dust extraction from router and fence by blowing upwards and outwards. Making your own is straight forward and custom built to your needs. With MDF I always extract on all points, router, fence and box (if attached) and use a slightly larger top ring on table to help clear dust. I'm in the middle of redoing mine having moved on to the latest Triton TWX7 set up and got a lot of MDF work coming up. Be interested to know what sealers you guys use for MDF prior to painting, want to get a good finish. Making some "faux" wall panelling for my hall way, not really done much MDF work requiring a good painted finish.


 Hi Dennis,
I'm building my table arrangement and photos of your present setup would certainly be helpful, So far I am just mapping out the layout for the Kreg Plate I had from you and haven't even looked at the router yet, but will get around to that soon. The cutout in the top shelf under the worktop, is so that the slide in/out table with dust box will still have room when the box is attached to the base of the table
Malcolm


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

I have been having more thoughts on the dust box. Once the router is enclosed ( Triton TRA001 ) is rthere anything hat needs to be got at below the table when the router is in operation? 

I haven't yet inspected the new router por read the instrusctions, but presumably there s a way to switch on via an NVR that the router would be plugged into, either using this KEDU NVR Switch 230V 1ph E Stop - Motors & Switchgear - General Machinery Accessories - Machinery Accessories - Accessories | Axminster Tools & Machinery or possibly this one by Charnwood https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Charnwood-...-for-Router-Table/2254362263?iid=361981180002 which the router would be plugged into?
Malcolm


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

You can't lock in the bit unless the small door covering the switch is closed, so you need to go below the table for that and also to lock in the height adjustment. Its no big deal but unfortunately its not totally above the table adjustments for the TRA001. An NVR switch will turn the router on and off (I have one on my table) but you still have to switch the router on first below the table.


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

That's a dissapointment when it is supposed to be a table model. One would have thought there was a way to have the router on and then power up via the NVA switch. So........ not having looked, when the router is mounted in the table, obviously with the winder top left, is the switch my side or the opposire, round the back of the router?
Malcolm

................................. PS just been out to the garage to have a look and it sems the switch would be front - right hand side. A nusance but still do-able. I had hoped to be able to have the router enclosed with the front (to me) side being one sheet of MDF held with earth magnets, now I will have to think again to get at the ruddy switch each time. I wonder if anyone has solved this problem? It's a good system when using it hand held, bu not in a table.
M


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## Steven Owen (Aug 14, 2017)

Badger2 said:


> That's a dissapointment when it is supposed to be a table model. One would have thought there was a way to have the router on and then power up via the NVA switch. So........ not having looked, when the router is mounted in the table, obviously with the winder top left, is the switch my side or the opposire, round the back of the router?
> Malcolm
> 
> ................................. PS just been out to the garage to have a look and it sems the switch would be front - right hand side. A nusance but still do-able. I had hoped to be able to have the router enclosed with the front (to me) side being one sheet of MDF held with earth magnets, now I will have to think again to get at the ruddy switch each time. I wonder if anyone has solved this problem? It's a good system when using it hand held, bu not in a table.
> M


It’s why I chose to go with a Incra Router lift and a Milwaukee 5625 motor. I don’t want to be fussing under the table all the time.


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Malcolm, I shouldn't be saying this but some have opened up the router and disabled the switch so an NVR will turn it on and off but that would probably void warranty. I also like the safety feature of this switch. That's why it is designed that way. I can reach under the table and do all those adjustments without even looking. Its no big deal and avoids the added expense of a router lift for those that are happy to fuss under the table


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

Hi barri,
thanks for your comments. I wiukld not want to disable the safety switch although I did see another router that you can switch on and leave on, using the switch to the power plug to start and stop. Not sure if this would work with the Triton TRA001, but then again, the same person said you need to lock the height setting lever, which also means going under the table. Thought my life was going to be easy with this trouter to change bits above the table, but not always as easy as it first sounds.

May think of the dust box as a possible addition later on and just start up with the mounted router with shop vac attached. Trial and error, as always, but fun to find the solutions.

Malcolm


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## Steven Owen (Aug 14, 2017)

Badger2 said:


> Hi barri,
> thanks for your comments. I wiukld not want to disable the safety switch although I did see another router that you can switch on and leave on, using the switch to the power plug to start and stop. Not sure if this would work with the Triton TRA001, but then again, the same person said you need to lock the height setting lever, which also means going under the table. Thought my life was going to be easy with this trouter to change bits above the table, but not always as easy as it first sounds.
> 
> May think of the dust box as a possible addition later on and just start up with the mounted router with shop vac attached. Trial and error, as always, but fun to find the solutions.
> ...


The only way I would consider disabling the safety switch would be if the router was connected to a third party power switch like Kreg or Jessem’s router table switch. The external switch will be much faster to stop in an emergecny vs one under the table.


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

Thanks Steven.
So, please correct me if I'm wrong. When the router is table mounted, switching it on is by reaching under the table, moving the safety cover back and prseeing the start button?

It would seem to be a lot safer if that first part can be done and THEN switched on from outside the table, or wall switch. 

If the router is plugged into a power socket, which is switched *off* and the first part of starting by moving the cover back and pressing the start button, will that hold in place until the wall power switch is switched on?

Malcolm


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## Steven Owen (Aug 14, 2017)

Badger2 said:


> Thanks Steven.
> So, please correct me if I'm wrong. When the router is table mounted, switching it on is by reaching under the table, moving the safety cover back and prseeing the start button?
> 
> It would seem to be a lot safer if that first part can be done and THEN switched on from outside the table, or wall switch.
> ...


If you have a switch like the one’s sold by Rockler, Kreg and Jessem, you just leave the router switched in the on-position and use the external switch to turn the router on and off like you would Table Saw. 

The biggest advantage of the external switch box is saftey. If something does go wrong you can hit the switch with your palm or knee killing power to the router.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Steven; I just realized your avatar is an _Orange Crush logo_! 
I thought maybe I was the only one left who loves that pop;


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## denlev (Feb 22, 2010)

*NVR Switch*



Badger2 said:


> Thanks Steven.
> So, please correct me if I'm wrong. When the router is table mounted, switching it on is by reaching under the table, moving the safety cover back and prseeing the start button?
> 
> It would seem to be a lot safer if that first part can be done and THEN switched on from outside the table, or wall switch.
> ...


Hi Malcolm I would say an NVR Switch for your Router table is very important, especially if you are a novice. It needs to be ideally in a position where you can nudge it off with your knee if you get into trouble and can't let go of the workpiece, believe me it happens. The TRA router can be left switched on until you want to change a cutter above table which means switching the actual router off to release the safety switch mechanism. It's no problem once you are familiar with using the router, just feel under for it. A lot people aren't aware that the the Triton winds through the table with auto lock spindle for an above table one spanner job to release collet nut. Please do not bypass the switch, very dangerous. Dennis


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

Thanks Dennis,
So with the router connected to the NVR, once I am ready to start, can I activate the router switch under the table to the on position, following which I then activate power with the NVR start button? That would be fine.

Malcolm


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Steven Owen said:


> you just leave the router switched in the on-position


Steven, you can't leave the Triton switch on all the time. It has to be off (sliding door closed) to change bits, otherwise you can't raise it high enough to lock the spindle. After that you can.

I have an NVR switch so I can turn it off quickly in an emergency and when the power comes on after a drop out.

Yes Malcolm, that's the routine. Install the bit with the router switch off, adjust height, lock in, then switch on and after that use the NVR for on and off.


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## Steven Owen (Aug 14, 2017)

barri said:


> Steven, you can't leave the Triton switch on all the time. It has to be off (sliding door closed) to change bits, otherwise you can't raise it high enough to lock the spindle. After that you can.
> 
> I have an NVR switch so I can turn it off quickly in an emergency and when the power comes on after a drop out.
> 
> Yes Malcolm, that's the routine. Install the bit with the router switch off, adjust height, lock in, then switch on and after that use the NVR for on and off.


You’re right. I forgot about that feature. It makes sense. Granted, I’ve always had the habit of unplugging routers before changing bit as a precaution.


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

barri said:


> Steven, you can't leave the Triton switch on all the time. It has to be off (sliding door closed) to change bits, otherwise you can't raise it high enough to lock the spindle. After that you can.
> 
> I have an NVR switch so I can turn it off quickly in an emergency and when the power comes on after a drop out.
> 
> Yes Malcolm, that's the routine. Install the bit with the router switch off, adjust height, lock in, then switch on and after that use the NVR for on and off.


Thanks Barri, that was what I was looking for. Which NVR switch do you use?
Malcolm


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## denlev (Feb 22, 2010)

Badger2 said:


> Thanks Dennis,
> So with the router connected to the NVR, once I am ready to start, can I activate the router switch under the table to the on position, following which I then activate power with the NVR start button? That would be fine.
> 
> Malcolm


That's correct, then turn off NVR and the actual router switch to change cutter above table. You can leave it on all the time until changing cutter as I said previously.


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

Yep, it works. Got an NVR today and tested the Triton TRA001 router with it. Not a problem leaving the router switch on and using the NVR switch. Easy to close it down for bit changes so I will be putting it in place soon.

Malcolm


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## barri (Dec 4, 2016)

Badger2 said:


> Thanks Barri, that was what I was looking for. Which NVR switch do you use?
> Malcolm


Its a locally made Aussie product


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