# Stereo stand



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

*Stereo stand build recommendations*

Guys and gals , I need to make a new stand that’s low profile and wide ,that will be sitting below my flat screen tv. 
I want my stereo components to sit inside ,and my centre channel speaker to sit on top . 

I really like the robust minimalist look of this one I found in this pic,but I’m concerned about the top warping ,as my centre channel speaker is 69 pounds .
My version will be 2’ deep and 65” wide , and not as tall . I am going to wall mount my flat screen ,so it will not be resting on top of the stand, just the speaker . 

Does this stand look like it is made from solid wood , and any suggestions how to pull this off? 
If it is solid, I’m assuming you glue several sections together. 
I want to stain it black if that changes anything . 
If I was to purchase pine at Windsor Plywood , this project would probably cost a few thousand dollars . We have a mill near by ,but I’m not sure what they have available. A friend was there once and bought Fir, but after reading about Fir ,they don’t recommend it for staining . 
I’m almost wondering if a guy would have to add a piece of angle iron inside the wood some how , as the long width looks prone to warping ? 
I didn’t want to add center supports ,but it may come to it .

So I guess I’m wondering what type of wood would be cost effective and strong enough not to warp


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Guys and gals , I need to make a new stand that’s low profile and wide ,that will be sitting below my flat screen tv.
> I want my stereo components to sit inside ,and my centre channel speaker to sit on top .
> 
> I really like the robust minimalist look of this one I found in this pic,but I’m concerned about the top warping ,as my centre channel speaker is 69 pounds .
> ...


KD Doug Fir,or Hemlock 2X12's should work for the top and cut them full length to sit on the ends should support your speaker. If you rip the center to make a square edge then glue them together, it will give you 22" wide. You can add a 2" filler strip between them to get a full 24" wide. 
Then dado in the shelf on each end. (2) 2X12X 8' L (1) 2X4 X 8' L =Top +Ends
(1) 2X12X 12' L (1) 2X4X 8' L = Shelf

Put some castors on it to move it around.

Herb


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Just gong by that picture, I would say cut a pallet up, and stack two pieces, one atop the other, and you'd have what you want.


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

Rick, not sure where you are getting your prices, but unless you are building that out of wenge. or some other exotic you are no where near a couple of grand. Personally if I were building that, and painting, I would use poplar. It take paint very well. To calculate the sag, use the sagulator, found here: https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/ to determine your load needs. I would be very comfortable using 8/4 poplar for that project.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Bob Adams said:


> Rick, not sure where you are getting your prices, but unless you are building that out of wenge. or some other exotic you are no where near a couple of grand. Personally if I were building that, and painting, I would use poplar. It take paint very well. To calculate the sag, use the sagulator, found here: https://www.woodbin.com/calcs/sagulator/ to determine your load needs. I would be very comfortable using 8/4 poplar for that project.


Sorry Bob, I wanted to stain it so I can see the grain . I could cheat and put two supports in the front and back if I have to . 
I swear from the pic that it’s warping ,but could be the angle etc


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Bob; Poplar is mostly available as finished mouldings and KD finish lumber up here in BC, not saying somebody like Reimer Hardwood doesn't have it but where Rick is (Cranbrook) the selection is somewhat limited.
Herb's assessment of what's available is pretty much the same here in BC.
Western Maple or Alder would be too more fairly economical alternatives.
https://www.westwindhardwood.com/product/hardwoods/maple-western/
https://www.westwindhardwood.com/product/hardwoods/alder/

Should be less than $400 (32 Bdft +/- @ $10/bdft)


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> KD Doug Fir,or Hemlock 2X12's should work for the top and cut them full length to sit on the ends should support your speaker. If you rip the center to make a square edge then glue them together, it will give you 22" wide. You can add a 2" filler strip between them to get a full 24" wide.
> Then dado in the shelf on each end. (2) 2X12X 8' L (1) 2X4 X 8' L =Top +Ends
> (1) 2X12X 12' L (1) 2X4X 8' L = Shelf
> 
> ...


Liking the 2x12 idea . The mill I can go to is about a 30 minute drive. I know they sell fir that needs to be planed , and I did buy a 15” planer , but have never hooked it up .

I thought about castors also . Wish they had some type that you can embed so that there not as noticeable


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> ...I thought about castors also . Wish they had some type that you can embed so that there not as noticeable


How about something like this ball castor with a socket. Drill a vertical hole and insert the socket, then push in the castor. No locking, but this is pretty low slung. If you don't have legs, add a hardwood block to the corners. You can get this kind of castor in a variety of colors to match your cabinet hardware.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> I did buy a 15” planer , but have never hooked it up .


Do hook it up. They are loads of fun, noisy, and make lots of shavings. I used to get my little shop knee deep in shavings at times. Love my planer.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

With the weight of the components in the center of the shelves and add the heat load from the components and I would think that it would start sagging in the middle.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Quite recently my darling wife decided that she wanted to replace our entertainment unit. Because my furniture making days are over I bought her one made in Indonesia from solid Mahogany. It is well made, the top and shelves have cross bars to prevent warping and most importantly, my beloved really likes it. Here are before and after shots.


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## ScottyDBQ (Jul 5, 2008)

If you use two 2 X 12s, you could use a spline between them - maybe even an epoxied metal spline if you are really concerned about sagging under a heavy load. A spline would be a good idea on a 65" span. I've never used it, but for a black finish, would a dye work better than a stain? Don't know; just thinkin'.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Sorry Bob, I wanted to stain it so I can see the grain . I could cheat and put two supports in the front and back if I have to .
> I swear from the pic that it’s warping ,but could be the angle etc



You were talking about using Pine, but it is too expense and unavailable you say, Poplar would probably be my first choice of cheapest hardwoods too. Although I made some chair seats out of Hemlock that stained up good one time. I picked through the pile of 2X8s at the big box store and found some 8' ones that were knot free, and straight grained. I couldn't find any 8/4 poplar, it would have cost a lot more too. Cottonwood might be cheaper. :surprise::grin:
Not sure how well 2nd growth fir takes stain, it has a lot of resin in it, but if you go to the mill , be sure your lumber is kiln-dried, you might have warping problems in the future. just some things to think about.

Just from experience,I would say that a 24"wide 6/4 board X 62" span will support 69# with no problem without center support. Cherryville Chuck ought to be able to be able to figure that out, I have long ago lost my tables of timber framing stresses.


Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

As Herb points out, finding 12" planks of hardwood will be more luck than choice. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't quarter sawing the first choice of sawyers doing hardwood?
That tends to limit the width of planks, unless they're coming off of a very large tree.
Quartersawing, Rift Sawing, and Plain Sawing Explained
I love D. Fir but as Herb points out the pitch pockets are a major p.i.t.a.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Thanks for the responses all . I think I’m overly optimistic on the no warping and no bracing sections inbetween .
As mentioned, I have a feeling the boards from this mill are not going to be dried properly .

For finished look ,I really like the pine shelving after it’s stained. It’s only 16” deep, so I’d have to buy extra sections and cut and glue them on to make it 24” deep . Well less than 24” as I’d be adding a border ,as the side wouldn’t look very good . 
But I would have to rethink the look.

Also I’m thinking of using plywood and gluing it to the bottom of the pine shelving for thickness and strength . 

Wish I was better at welding ,because steel would be a better option in this circumstance, but my welds look like crap lol .

Btw, nice job on the stand Harry


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

Hi Rick,I was gonna suggest what Steve @ ScottyDBQ said about splines But I was a bit late. Also,does your timberyard or sawmill guarantee their wood is properly dried?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Thanks for the responses all . I think I’m overly optimistic on the no warping and no bracing sections inbetween .
> As mentioned, I have a feeling the boards from this mill are not going to be dried properly .
> 
> For finished look ,I really like the pine shelving after it’s stained. It’s only 16” deep, so I’d have to buy extra sections and cut and glue them on to make it 24” deep . Well less than 24” as I’d be adding a border ,as the side wouldn’t look very good .
> ...


If you are going to double up 2 layers of 3/4", then for the edge band front and back you can use a 1X2, that will add strength from sagging.
BTW are you leaving it open all the way through? Or are you putting a back on it? A back will help support the middle too if you are worried about it.

You might do some testing by getting a 6' 2X12 and standing on it flat when it is blocked up off the floor and you will get an idea of how strong they are. we used to use them for scaffold planks, and on an 8' span just one wide would support a 250 lb. person easily, and you are talking 69 lbs. on 2 of them side by side glued together on a 5' span.

Just saying ,

Herb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> If you are going to double up 2 layers of 3/4", then for the edge band front and back you can use a 1X2, that will add strength from sagging.
> BTW are you leaving it open all the way through? Or are you putting a back on it? A back will help support the middle too if you are worried about it.
> 
> You might do some testing by getting a 6' 2X12 and standing on it flat when it is blocked up off the floor and you will get an idea of how strong they are. we used to use them for scaffold planks, and on an 8' span just one wide would support a 250 lb. person easily, and you are talking 69 lbs. on 2 of them side by side glued together on a 5' span.
> ...


That’s a great point with the 2x12 Herb , as there strong as all heck . I’m almost thinking about glueing that pine shelving to the 2x12 , as that would create a nice thick look I’m after and be 2-1/4” thick . 
My main concern would be the 2x12 warping from all the tightbond glue . Maybe if it was well clamped for a day? 
I guess I could put the kibosh on glue and just air nail the pine shelving to the 2x12 , but it would be stronger if they were glued together and acted as a composite I would think.


I could install a back , but I was actually going to use this metal mesh stuff to hide the back wall . 
Nothing says I can’t have a few supports though


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Does it matter if the top's thicker, Rick?
Just rip a bunch of 2x4 or 2x6 to the thickness you want...2"?...and glue up a 'benchtop'...16 lengths I think(?).
Do it in two 12" panels, run it through the planer, then glue them together for your 24" top


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> Does it matter if the top's thicker, Rick?
> Just rip a bunch of 2x4 or 2x6 to the thickness you want...2"?...and glue up a 'benchtop'...16 lengths I think(?).
> Do it in two 12" panels, run it through the planer, then glue them together for your 24" top


That’s no a bad idea either Dan


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## AudioHTIT (Jul 26, 2017)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> I thought about castors also . Wish they had some type that you can embed so that there not as noticeable


If you can live with just in and out from the wall, you could do something similar to what I did with the credenza.

Possibly route pockets in the bottom of the legs and slip a narrow wheel inside. I used a bolt, but maybe with a very hard wood you could make a classy peg/dowel axel. 

Though with a quick look the narrowest wheel I found was 1”, with a 2x leg you’d only have about 1/4” on either side to support the axel. But I think it would look good if you could pull it off (I love being able to pull mine out from the wall for hookups and changes). Oh! Maybe you could make a wooden wheel!?!

Here’s how mine came out, but a wooden version of this (I haven’t needed the feet)


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Rice ,that’s a really good implementation of castors


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Considering how much is involved to get this right , I’m going with a change of plans.

Best case scenario I would like a rack that could hover above the subwoofer . I was going to build something that has a main column to the right ,and has platforms attached to it for each level .
They would have a floating shelf look . But the bottom platform to hold it up vertically would have the subwoofer sitting on it, causing vibration issues .
So my next plan is to build it in such a way that the right side is hinged to the wall , making it so I can angle it the way I like , plus turn it 45 degrees to access the back .

Seeing as it will be connected to the wall, I can have the subwoofer sitting under it on the carpet .
But for the most part wood is out . I’m going to see if I can weld 2” square tubing without leaving an ugly puddle . 
Each 20” square platform that I weld up out of square tubing will have a wood platform resting on it , and another layer glued under it to hold it in place , so there will still be wood involved for the platforms tops

This isn’t a very good visualization,but it will be a simular concept(except mine won’t be going to the floor ) ,as I’ll have the audio sitting on shelves simular to this, but welded to a main column which may be 2x4inch steel tubing for strength.

I’d like to have it going to the floor ,but I just don’t think it’s a good practice to have the subwoofer sitting on the bottom plate of the rack vibration wise


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Rick, I didn't read through all the posts, so here is my two cents worth. Check out Transtint dye. You can mix it with just about anything. I think I used denatured alcohol. Water would also work, but would most likely raise the grain on your project, so I say no to water.

Here is a project I made for a family friend. This is birch plywood and Transtint. You want black, you will get black! And you can see the grain of the wood.
https://www.amazon.com/TransTint-Dyes-Black/dp/B001DT33NS

Note: It is hard to photograph black stuff. :frown:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike I still have that link in my favourites,as I like the black outcome


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