# Quick Projects with Few Tools Required



## patlaw (Jan 4, 2010)

Does anyone recall a website that has projects that can be done quickly with few tools? My time and tools are very limited (no table saw, no band saw, no jointer, no planer), but I want to keep making sawdust little by little so that my skills will continue to improve, albeit slowly.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Dan’s Shop (several hand tool projects described)
Dan's Shop

“Furniture Making Plain And Simple” by Aldren Watson: (Detailed hand tool-only project plans)
http://www.amazon.ca/Furniture-Maki...8121/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1335811570&sr=8-2

Kerry’s hand tool-only Jewelry box:
Hand Tool Project - Jewelry Box - by Kerry @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

Recreation of a viking tool chest:
Wild Rose Woodcraft: The Mastermyr Chest - first hand tool project

“Boxes and Chests” by Alan And Gill Bridgewater (mostly hand tools)
http://www.amazon.ca/Boxes-Chests-A...=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1335811785&sr=1-1

“Made by Hand: Furniture Projects from the Unplugged Woodshop” by Tom Fidgen
http://www.amazon.ca/Made-Hand-Furn...=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1335811927&sr=1-1

“The New Traditional Woodworker” by Jim Tolpin
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1440304289/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=jimtolpincom-20

“The Woodwright’s Apprentice: Twenty Favorite Projects From The Woodwright’s Shop” by Roy Underhill
http://www.amazon.com/The-Woodwrigh...=sr_1_5?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1335812823&sr=1-5

http://www.renaissancewoodworker.com/


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Beginner Woodworking Projects: Easy Plans & Project Ideas

Easy Woodworking Projects - Beginner Woodworking Projects | Minwax

Plans & Projects | Startwoodworking.com

Just google easy woodworking projects


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Pat - this topic came up last summer - you mentioned then that you had no shop and very few tools.
It depends on what you want to make - you could do any number of small projects with minimal tools.

I see in your profile that you say you've got "tons of tools" - maybe put in a list in your profile and we'd be able to give you some starting point/pointers on how to utilize them

I had posted a picture of a table that I made with *no power tools*. I used a plane, chisel, mallet and small dovetail saw.
See this post:

Router Forums - View Single Post - Routerforums needs your input

Here's another small project - an outdoor stand - yes, I did use power tools, but you could easily do this with a minimum of tools.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Mike the way I got a lot of the tools I have is because I bought the tool to do a job that I would have otherwise had to pay someone else to do. The initial end cost may have been the same but I wound up with a tool that I was able to use for future projects.


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## patlaw (Jan 4, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Mike the way I got a lot of the tools I have is because I bought the tool to do a job that I would have otherwise had to pay someone else to do. The initial end cost may have been the same but I wound up with a tool that I was able to use for future projects.


I have a lot of tools, but I don't have a place to use them. No garage, no shop. With a bad back, there's a limit as to how much I can lift to set up a "shop" on portable tables and such. Nevertheless, the stuff I do is fun, and I'm finally making a little progress. I do have 7 routers, two router tables, Festool drill/driver, Kapex KS 120 SCMS, JessEm doweling jig, Sears table saw (in storage, not accessible), RAS (bad motor), jointer (old, in storage, may not work), Elu 3380 biscuit jointer, and many other power tools. I inherited many of them, so I'm just learning to use them. I don't mind buying the tools I need, but I don't have room for them.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Mike you've got more than enough tools.

No table saw accessible? Add one of these homemade circular saw tracks with a circ saw.

No joiner? Use one of your router tables as a joiner.

Didn't see a hand plane listed - you could do a lot with one.

Seems that you're a little leery about making stuff - you've mentioned both in your profile and in a couple of posts that you have no experience and are just learning - don't be afraid to make mistakes (as long as you don't cut off a finger :no
Tell us what you would like to make and you'll get a lot of help.

Everyone started somewhere


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Sorry, meant to add a picture to my previous post for a homemade circ saw track


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## patlaw (Jan 4, 2010)

Vince, all joking aside, I've made a few things, but I have had a very high level of frustration with most of them. For a while, I had a Hitachi SCMS that I finally pitched. Its cuts were totally inconsistent. Its tracking was laughable. Not long ago, I learned the hard way how inconsistently lumber from Lowe's is dimensioned. My best success recently has been with my JessEm 08350 doweling jig. It has a design issue, but it can be worked around with a little care. My current task is to try to make joint lines that disappear. I *am* making progress. That's why I want to try some different but simple things. 

One of the last projects I built is a ladder shelf, similar to the picture below. It has presented a few challenges, but it is almost finished. It's hard to believe how much time it takes for such a simple project. However, the only way I'll get faster is with practice (and having a shop that I don't have to set up every time I want to cut a board.) 

Hand planes are black magic to me. My son is learning how to use them. He's going to each me. Every time I try to use one, the result is NOT good.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

add some of theses to the arsenal...
PRO-Grip Straight Edge Clamps

make your own track saw..
one of these and a router and you have a joiner...
build a kitchen full of cabinets w/ better joinery..


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

patlaw said:


> Hand planes are black magic to me. My son is learning how to use them. He's going to each me. *Every time I try to use one, the result is NOT good.
> *


how come???


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## patlaw (Jan 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> how come???


When I plane perpendicular surfaces they are no longer perpendicular.


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## patlaw (Jan 4, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> add some of theses to the arsenal...
> PRO-Grip Straight Edge Clamps
> 
> make your own track saw..
> ...


Have you used one of these clamps? Are they good? I have one similar to it, and I like it. The company is no longer in business or I'd get another one. Some of the others I've checked out don't have good reviews.


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## patlaw (Jan 4, 2010)

vchiarelli said:


> Sorry, meant to add a picture to my previous post for a homemade circ saw track


Case in point: How do I get a 1x2 that's straight enough to make one of these?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I used all plywood for mine. The only straight edge you need is the one the saw plate butts up against so you can use the factory edge for that one. You leave the bottom piece wide so that the first cut cuts the excess off. That tells you where the blade will be for each cut after. The only issue I found out with mine was not taking into account how far the motor sticks out on the saw. I didn't make mine wide enough and when the saw is set for max depth the motor hits the clamps that hold the guide to my work.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Charles answered your question on the straight edge you need - totally agree.

Charles, I had the same problem with clamps getting in the way. So this one was made with the extra lip to the left side of the straight edge. I clamp that lip to my work table using small 6" Bessey clamps with the jaw up. That provides just enough clearance for the circ saw motor.

Mike - "*the only way I'll get faster is with practice"*. It isn't a race, not for me anyway. It's a hobby so meant to be enjoyed. If it was a race, it would be too much like work. (and I'm retired )


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

patlaw said:


> When I plane perpendicular surfaces they are no longer perpendicular.


less cut..
iron bevel set parallel to the sole..
more practice...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

patlaw said:


> Have you used one of these clamps? Are they good? I have one similar to it, and I like it. The company is no longer in business or I'd get another one. Some of the others I've checked out don't have good reviews.


yes and yes...
do not waste your money on the Bora brand...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

patlaw said:


> Case in point: How do I get a 1x2 that's straight enough to make one of these?


use a 1x4 or a 1x6 instead...
chalk line the edge and use your plane to true it...

or use your single piece clamp on, router and flush bit..


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I used all plywood for mine. The only straight edge you need is the one the saw plate butts up against so you can use the factory edge for that one. You leave the bottom piece wide so that the first cut cuts the excess off. That tells you where the blade will be for each cut after. The only issue I found out with mine was not taking into account how far the motor sticks out on the saw. I didn't make mine wide enough and when the saw is set for max depth the motor hits the clamps that hold the guide to my work.


no TS to make the rips...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*"I learned the hard way how inconsistently lumber from Lowe's is dimensioned."
-Pat
*
If you're referring to common lumber (construction stuff), it's not Lowe's fault. The stuff comes from all over the continent, ie different competitive mills. There's also shrinkage, which can be substantial if the wood was wet when it was sawn and planed. (10% in width possibly) depending on the sawcut. One of the good things about SPF type lumber is that it was kiln dried; it's pretty stable after that...unless of course it sits out in the rain.
I always have 10-20 lengths of 1x4SPF common on the rack indoors. It's perfect for small projects; wine racks, greenhouse shelving (once it's painted), small things ...kids toys, etc. it's light weight, tight grained, easy to work, and sands out very easily.

Rather than fighting the dimension thing, work with what you actually have...buy more than you need, especially when they open a new lift of lumber and it hasn't yet been picked over. That way you're not a slave to what's available _after_ it's been picked over!

You can always use 1x2...1x4...1x6. Western Red Cedar for the outdoors stuff.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Mike maybe you should see if you can find the H. H. Windsor projects on line. He wrote a series of articles for Popular Mechanics about a hundred years ago that wound up being compiled into a book. I bought the book from Lee Valley but I've seen seen it on line for free, copyrights probably expired decades ago. They were woodworking projects that were geared to the handyman of the time so weren't that complicated and some of the styles got very popular (also called Mission furniture). Most of them should be doable with your tools.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> no TS to make the rips...


Doesn't matter how bad all the other cuts are, you're using the factory edge for your straight edge and the bottom piece gets cut off parallel to the factory edge. This is maybe the most fool proof jig that a woodworker can make. You literally can not screw it up.

When I made mine I didn't have a good saw to make the pieces with so I used the straightedge of one sheet of ply to use for the guide to cut the pieces I needed for the cutting guide out. That didn't ensure that the cuts were parallel since I measured the saw's offset for those cuts but it did at least make straight cuts that looked good. Not that I normally give a rat's toucas about that as evidenced by my other jigs that I've exhibited.


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## patlaw (Jan 4, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> *"I learned the hard way how inconsistently lumber from Lowe's is dimensioned."
> -Pat*


It's Mike.


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## patlaw (Jan 4, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Mike maybe you should see if you can find the H. H. Windsor projects on line. He wrote a series of articles for Popular Mechanics about a hundred years ago that wound up being compiled into a book. I bought the book from Lee Valley but I've seen seen it on line for free, copyrights probably expired decades ago. They were woodworking projects that were geared to the handyman of the time so weren't that complicated and some of the styles got very popular (also called Mission furniture). Most of them should be doable with your tools.


Is this the publication?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Sorry, Mike, I knew that. *Embarrassment* 
You're a Patent Attorney. 
Hence the PatLaw part.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

patlaw said:


> Is this the publication?


Yes but there should be a part 1,2, and 3. Even if you don't like exactly what is profiled it can stimulate the imagination.


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## LazurusLong (Jan 20, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> add some of theses to the arsenal...
> PRO-Grip Straight Edge Clamps
> 
> make your own track saw..
> ...


These look extremely versatile. Not that expensive either. In the video, he is using them for glue-ups. How hard are they to clean glue off of? Would a guy tape them off or???


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

LazurusLong said:


> These look extremely versatile. Not that expensive either. In the video, he is using them for glue-ups. How hard are they to clean glue off of? Would a guy tape them off or???


wax them..
scrape the glue off w/ plastic putty knife...
a little heat for the really stubborn lumps...

I've never used them for glue up..
pipe clamps are more gooder..

I have the back to back clamps and rarely if ever use them...
24, 36, 50 and 105'' is what really get used a lot...


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## LazurusLong (Jan 20, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> wax them..
> scrape the glue off w/ plastic putty knife...
> a little heat for the really stubborn lumps...
> 
> ...


Thanks Stick.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

LazurusLong said:


> Thanks Stick.


yur welcome...

I wish they had a 60'' because of all the the 5x5 and 5x10 sheets I use..


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@LazurusLong...

some tips for the tool challenged...

take your router w/ a flush trim bit (down shear is a plus) and dress the edge of the board...
now trim the opposing edge of the board parallel w/ your table saw that has a glue line blade in it...
I like Freud blades a lot...
no TS??? us your router and trim bit... 

w/ a straight edge, (clamp on is easiest/simplest/least effort) your router and a trim bit you can be golden...
Freud Downshear Helix Flush Trim Router Bit - justfreud.com
Straight Edge Clamp from JustClamps.com

set the guide very near to the edge of the board, let the top bearing bit ride against the guide w/ the router on top of the guide...
you will cut/end up w/ a very clean/straight ready to glue 90° edge...
*or....*
set the guide back away from the board's edge and run the router's base against the guide...
keep in mind you are only going/want to remove as little material as needed to ''clean/straighten'' the edge...
really screwed up edges are cleaned up (hogged) a lot easier easier w/ the straight guide and a circular saw and finished w/ the router...
now you can run the board through the table saw to make the opposing edge parallel...
strongly recommend a glue-line blade for this cut...
Freud Combination Saw Blades - justfreud.com 
FWIW... don't waste your money on the Bora brand... VOE... 

*NOTE...*
there is nothing stopping you from ''trimming/jointing'' your material upside down...
guide to the bottom..
router on top...
bit bearing against the guide.. (takes a bit w/ a bottom bearing)...
this works really well on narrow material..
needless to say bracing/shims/clamps as required for material stability and your safety..


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