# At last I am about to build a router table



## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

I've wanted to build a router table for a couple of years now, and finally at last, it looks like I will have time, money, skills, and tools enough to see this through. I have a design in mind and I'd like to ask a few questions before I begin putting saw to wood on this.

First, I want it fairly simple, but not lacking in features I see as essential either. I don't need a lot of storage in it, and I want to make it portable as well, so I had the idea to buy a miter saw stand and make the table on top of it where the miter saw would normally go. I have already bought one identical to the one my miter saw is on for this. As a bonus, I will be able to use the infeed and outfeed supports built into the stand just the same as I would for a table saw, to process long stock. Final height of the router table surface will be about 42" in height which is what I want for less bending and ease of reaching below the table to adjust the router height since it is not adjustable from above (DeWALT DW618). 

My questions are on the table top itself. I would love to use Baltic birch but I cannot locate a store here that sells it or will even order it without driving 75 miles to order, and then a second trip to pick it up later. I would rather avoid that. As such, I feel limited to what Lowe's or Home Depot sell off the shelf locally. So that's either the best plywood they have (oak, birch, maple) or MDF, or melamine coated particle board. I believe for now I am leaning towards a double layer of 1/2 or 3/4 MDF, with a sheet of white countertop laminate applied to the top and bottom, to minimize moisture absorbsion as much as possible. This will be approx. 24 x 36 inches in size, and the lower supports for the top will run front to back, and will be 18" apart from end to end, to allow good clearance below the top to make adjustments to the router, and I'll have about 8 inches of table overhang out past each support. Do you think it will sag any with this arrangement? If needed, I can move the supports in closer together, but not a lot. 

There will be a Kreg router table insert plate used also, the one that uses the Loc-ring inserts. I can attempt to route an opening for this with a recess just enough to hold the plate, or I can cut it all the way out (which is easier) and then use the Kreg router table plate levelers installed in each corner to level the plate and hold it, both. With those I fear any tear out on any one screw for installing the levelers will let the plate drop and the whole thing is ruined. This could occur during install or even over time during usage, but I am not sure I can accurately cut the plate mortise to be just the plate depth and no more or less. What do you suggest?

That's enough for now. If I ask every question I have, this one post will be way too long, and I fear it already is now. I have looked at a ton of shop made router tables for ideas, and to see how things work. These are questions that come from seeing designs I think I could build.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Since it sounds like you do not want to go to a bunch of trouble, just buy a table top ready to go.

Just make sure it fits your plate.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Both the router tables I have built have been made with double layers of MDF topped of with formica. It makes for a flat, heavy, stable, and nice slick surface. With a little bit of planning, building a good top is not hard, and can be done in a weekend.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Duane, I made the table top for my fold-down router table out of a two-layer sandwich of mdf combining a 3/4' and 1/2" layer to give me a 1 1/4" thick table which has formica glued to the top.

The photos show the method I used to cut the opening for the plate. I made a template from 1/2" mdf to simplify cutting the opening in the table. Since the corner radius on the Kreg plate is 3/4", I used a 1 1/2" forstner bit to make the corners in the template.

Both the template and the table top openings were rough cut with a jigsaw before using the router to finish the edges. 

The plate fit nicely and the corner plate levelers installed easily with three Kreg screws for each leveler. With three screws holding each leveler, I don't think you need to worry about one falling out. The screws and even a square drive bit came with the levelers. The leveler adjusting posts install and are adjusted from under the table and it took less than 10 minutes to get a flush fit between the top of the plate and the table top. Then I just screwed the plate down into the levelers and all was done.

The Kreg plate is nicely marked on the bottom to assist in centering your router base. You'll note that I removed the handles from the fixed base of my Dewalt 618 since I leave it in the router table.

P.S. Opps! Sorry for the typo on the photo of the leveler. It should say:"Kreg plate levelers attach with 3 screws and have *two* adjusting bolts."


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Gaffboat, that is a really good tutorial you posted. It gave me lots of ideas on how to see this through. It was an especially nice treat seeing it done with my same router and using the same plate I am planning to use. You even did it the same way I am planning with a double layer of MDF. Thank you for posting all that.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I really like Timbertailors idea of buying a top . When I priced parts out it got to a point where the Incra top did not cost enough extra to justify building one myself . I looked at Baltic birch plywood today and it was $82 for 1/2" sheet .
With my Incra top the miter slot is already installed for me plus the hole for the plate . I don't know how important it is having the miter slot perfectly parallel to the fence , but I know I'd screw it up if I did it myself by a few thousands . Guess it depends on which fence system you use whether it's important or not ? 
You may not want a miter slot so this concern may be a little redundant .
I think Brads idea is a great one also because this way I can build the storage area underneith the table top to my specs , and I won't have the burden of being so critical .
Trying to get everything to within a rickameter can be disastrous sometimes


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

timbertailor said:


> Since it sounds like you do not want to go to a bunch of trouble, just buy a table top ready to go.
> 
> Just make sure it fits your plate.


I looked into this, and also even into prefabbed tables that have their own plates, and even some that had none at all. The thing I had against most of them was the edge banding. It was vinyl or rubber, and usually stuck up slightly higher on the edge than the table surface itself, creating a catch for wood to hang on. Besides being as much or more than I want to spend on this, they all fall short of what I want. I don't want to go to a lot of trouble with the build, such as making drawers or motor lifts, but I don't mind the work to get what I do want.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

I also have another hair brained idea too. I bought a work bench from Harbor Freight tools and it seems to be very flat. I am debating simply turning this into a router table as well. It seems all I'd have to do is cut the insert plate hole and make a fence. Is this crazy? I want a large table surface because I want to use it as a jointer as well and it seems that longer is better. 24 x 36 is the smallest I'd make my table. In any case, I have no desire for T tracks or miter slots. Any jigs I make will reference from the table edge, so miter slots are not needed. Any accessories I add will simply clamp on so T tracks are not needed.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> ................................ Besides being as much or more than I want to spend on this, they all fall short of what I want. I don't want to go to a lot of trouble with the build, such as making drawers or motor lifts, but I don't mind the work to get what I do want.


I understand. Money can always make reaching our goals more difficult or in a time frame one can tolerate.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Duane if money is really tight I'd be tempted to do a build like I seen on some of those YouTube videos where the guy built pretty much everything including the router plate and fence .
Time would be the only issue I'd have taking this approach , but the feeling of accomplishment would sure be nice . 
In my case I just have to much on my plate as it is


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

This is Dale , the guy I watched before . Not sure what the general consensus of this guy is here at the forum , but I thought he had some good ideas . He has a bunch of videos from the beggining of the build somewhere on YouTube 


www.youtube.com/watch?v=A65yIdvHEeY


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Duane your kitchen countertop is probably 5/8" particle board with laminate on one side only with no finish on the bottom side. There is probably another one like it in the bathroom. Those are the two most humid rooms in your house and yet they stay flat. 

We've seen a number of members have problems with warping when laminating pieces together and I think I've figured out why. The water in the glue is doing it. The glue around the edges dries first leaving nowhere for the remaining water to go except into the panels, which causes them to warp. I've never used two plies and I've never needed to. Just put a good frame under it. Melamine works ok but it will wear faster than laminate. Mdf works well too. Both are very flat.


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## rweerstra (Feb 9, 2010)

Duane,

I too built a table using the same router and plate that you are using. I started with the "ultimate router table" plan and completed it to my needs.  I used two sheets of 3/4 MDF and the Kreg corner brackets as well. They work as designed and I have no complaints. The Kreg plate was easy to work with and looks nice. I topped the surface with a grey laminate that I found at the Habitat for Humanity resale shop in town, a full 4x8 sheet for $10. Used it for this and several other projects. Good luck.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

rweerstra said:


> Duane,
> 
> I too built a table using the same router and plate that you are using. I started with the "ultimate router table" plan and completed it to my needs. I used two sheets of 3/4 MDF and the Kreg corner brackets as well. They work as designed and I have no complaints. The Kreg plate was easy to work with and looks nice. I topped the surface with a grey laminate that I found at the Habitat for Humanity resale shop in town, a full 4x8 sheet for $10. Used it for this and several other projects. Good luck.


Ron have you posted any pictures of your router table ?


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

timbertailor said:


> I understand. Money can always make reaching our goals more difficult or in a time frame one can tolerate.





RainMan1 said:


> Duane if money is really tight I'd be tempted to do a build like I seen on some of those YouTube videos where the guy built pretty much everything including the router plate and fence .
> Time would be the only issue I'd have taking this approach , but the feeling of accomplishment would sure be nice .
> In my case I just have to much on my plate as it is


I don't think money is tight here (a first for me) because I have about $200 - $250 to put into it. I guess that is a smaller budget than a lot have had but I think I can get done what I want on that. 

What I want is a fairly large table surface, at least 24x36 or longer, because I feel that a longer table will help with longer, larger pieces. I plan to use an insert plate for the convenience of having rings that will close up the space around the bit, but can be removable to change a bit or to run panel raising bits. I could make this but that would complicate things, not to mention I might mess it up trying. I also want to place the plate off center from front to back, 8" one way, 16" the other, because most of my work can be done with not much width of table, but raising panels will be easier if I have a broader surface. I can just reverse the fence to use the opposite side. The fence itself will be shop made also, and simply clamp to the table for use, have a built in vac port, sliding sub fence faces, and the outfeed side can have a slim piece of sheet metal inserted behind it to offset it slightly for limited jointing of wood using a 1 1/2" tall straight bit. I also plan to angle cut the sub fence faces so I can make zero clearance inserts and angle cut their ends to fit between the sub fence faces. 

All of this is why I want to make it myself, to gain the features I want, but not pay for those I don't, and also to overcome some inherent problems with ready made table tops such as the edge banding being proud of the table edge itself. But since I've never made one before I didn't want to make a massive mistake and have it ruined from not knowing any better. I also don't want to take forever to get it done either. That's why I want a simple design without drawers and cabinets. I am using a miter saw stand to eliminate that, plus gain mobility, height, stability (cause it's a heavier stand than average), and with some modification I can also use the extension supports to help run long wood through. All I need to do is make a stable table


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

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Cherryville Chuck said:


> Duane your kitchen countertop is probably 5/8" particle board with laminate on one side only with no finish on the bottom side. There is probably another one like it in the bathroom. Those are the two most humid rooms in your house and yet they stay flat.
> 
> We've seen a number of members have problems with warping when laminating pieces together and I think I've figured out why. The water in the glue is doing it. The glue around the edges dries first leaving nowhere for the remaining water to go except into the panels, which causes them to warp. I've never used two plies and I've never needed to. Just put a good frame under it. Melamine works ok but it will wear faster than laminate. Mdf works well too. Both are very flat.


I wish I could "like this" twice! Thank you!


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## denis lock (Oct 26, 2007)

Re Oliver's post.

I also build router table tops from two pieces of MDF (a 12mm upper layer and a 16mm lower layer) and then face with Formica. I believe that you must use Formica on both faces (top and bottom) to get a balanced and warp-free construction.

Denis Lock "Routing with Denis"


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> ```
> 
> ```
> I wish I could "like this" twice! Thank you!


Particle board and MDF are cheap but are not materials one recommends for teaching best practices. One should use the best material available for work surfaces to prevent or avoid moisture damage.

There are no other redeeming qualities of either. They are made with formaldehyde which is a carcinogen. When cut, the fine dust goes everywhere, making it almost impossible to remove from the shop, once introduced. Every time you move a tool or put something on a shelf, these particles will be reintroduced into the air. Nothing good can come of this.

So, if you value your health and the health of your family, spend the money for quality materials since money does not seem to be an issue after all.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Well, if I did use MDF, I'd cut it outside. I know how that stuff puts dust everywhere. One experience was enough to teach me never to cut inside with that. And believe me, I'd rather use plywood, but Baltic birch simply isn't available here, and ordering it will be costly, or involve a long drive to get it. Closest place I found to get it was 75 miles away, one way. Can I just use oak or maple plywood from Lowe's and put a laminate on top for a surface, and make my framing from regular 2x4, and expect all this to remain flat and square? That's what I have available locally. I have about $250 max to spend, and about half of that will go into the plate, levelers, and lock rings for the plate. So I'm left with $125ish to build the table and frame.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

My latest router table top was made with 3/4 BB plywood and laminated with 2 1/4" (ish) layers of hard board on either side. I got this idea from a wood working magazine (can't remember which). I put about 5 coats of poly on the bottom and formica on the top. Hardwood edging with a bevel. It's super dense. The table has remained very flat - checked it just last week. And, I'm hanging a JessEm router lift with a PC 7518 from it. It clearly can take a fair amount weight. I'm extremely happy with the results.

My previous table top was 2 layers of 3/4" MDF laminated. While it was ok, I much prefer what I have now.


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## old coasty (Aug 15, 2014)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> I also have another hair brained idea too. I bought a work bench from Harbor Freight tools and it seems to be very flat. I am debating simply turning this into a router table as well. It seems all I'd have to do is cut the insert plate hole and make a fence. Is this crazy? I want a large table surface because I want to use it as a jointer as well and it seems that longer is better. 24 x 36 is the smallest I'd make my table. In any case, I have no desire for T tracks or miter slots. Any jigs I make will reference from the table edge, so miter slots are not needed. Any accessories I add will simply clamp on so T tracks are not needed.


Isn't the top of the HF Workbench pretty thin?


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

old coasty said:


> Isn't the top of the HF Workbench pretty thin?


Yeah, and I think it's not MDF but particle board (LDF?).


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Duane I didn't find it hard to route the rabbet to the correct depth. If you take your plate and put it between the depth rod and one of the turret stops, when you plunge for the cut it will cut the exact depth of the plate thickness. You can do a test cut on a scrap to make sure. If you get it slightly off (as in too deep) you can build it up with a layer of glue or varnish or glue some veneer on it and re machine it. You almost can't make a mistake bad enough that it can't be fixed. By the way, some of Harrysin's tutorials show him setting the depth rod like I'm suggesting. 

I still say doubling and sealing the top is unnecessary. Build a good torsion box frame under it with supports as close to the plate opening as is practical. I might be inclined to run one side of 2x4s through a table saw to ale sure that side is flat unless you're sure they're good as is. Your plan for placement of the opening is exactly what I would do.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

PhilBa said:


> My latest router table top was made with 3/4 BB plywood and laminated with 2 1/4" (ish) layers of hard board on either side. I got this idea from a wood working magazine (can't remember which). I put about 5 coats of poly on the bottom and formica on the top. Hardwood edging with a bevel. It's super dense. The table has remained very flat - checked it just last week. And, I'm hanging a JessEm router lift with a PC 7518 from it. It clearly can take a fair amount weight. I'm extremely happy with the results.
> 
> My previous table top was 2 layers of 3/4" MDF laminated. While it was ok, I much prefer what I have now.


I gotta say you do some impressive router table builds Phil


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Intuitively I'm in absolute agreement with Charles' assessment of the top. I can't see how a normal 3/4" Birch ply top, say 24" X 30" (supported on all 4 sides), could deflect under normal usage. The RT plate spreads the load over a _very_ large area...there _is_ no point at which the load is concentrated. If one were worried, attaching a couple of pieces of 1" or smaller angle iron on the underside as purlins would make it bomb proof. 

( I had mentioned awhile back that the mattress shops give the stuff away...they take old bedframes back when they deliver the new ones. Freebies.)


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Further to my above comment, we load hot tubs, full freezers, grand pianos, and kingsize beds (with two or more bodies on it) onto 5/8" fir plywood supported on two sides at 16"o/c spacing without any problems. (Not suggesting there isn't _any_ deflection in the case of subfloors...)


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> Yeah, and I think it's not MDF but particle board (LDF?).


Mine seems to be all wood, top side and bottom, and it is about 1" thick by looking at the dog holes.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

My go-to shelving, where appearance is secondary, is laminated pine. Man that stuff is stiff! 
Not suggesting it'd make a good RT top. But maybe for a base if that's what someone wanted. Relatively inexpensive as well.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

I used some of that in a bathroom closet and over time it delaminated on me.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Ok, after carefully considering my options, I have decided on a torsion box table top design. I am still limited on material choices, but I am relying on the torsion framing to help hold everything flat. 

My plan is to build using only what I can get from Lowe's. For the framing of the torsion box, I will use 1x2 oak boards (actual 3/4 x 1 1/2) on edge for strength, and do half lap joints as each board crosses another. I will space them on 6" centers, and leave a 1 foot square opening at the location of the router. This will be off center. The final table dimensions will be 24x36, and the router bit center will be 8" in from one long edge, 16" in from the opposite side, and centered from end to end. Of course, I will use glue everywhere, and screws where needed (or 18 gauge brads in a nailgun).

Once built, I will use 3/4 oak or maple plywood as a top and bottom. I know this will add weight using it on the bottom, but it will save money not needing to buy additional thinner materials. Once finished, I will laminate the top surface with white countertop laminate (bottom too, if you all think it is needed), and then I will edge band the whole thing with another, wider oak board like used in the framing, a 1x4. This will end up doubling the edge framing all the way around and help reinforce the side where the router comes closer to the edge. 

I will use a Kreg plate insert, and attempt to rout the recess to hold the plate WITHOUT levelers. My framing centers dont allow room for them to fit unless I alter my measurements. That is the failing of this design. If I get all this built and then botch the recess cut, it is scrap. Therefore, I will use guides and maybe even make a template to do that with, but it is mostly getting the depth right that worries me. I can lay the plate on a flat surface, set the plunge router on it, plunge to depth in the opening of the plate in order to set the bit depth, but that is the point where I feel that the sharpness of the bit tip may press into the material below the plate ever so slightly and throw off the cut depth, making me cut too deep when I rout the table opening. I know I can always shim things up though. Also, how much of a lip do you leave around the opening to support the plate? Is 1/4" enough? This plate has screw holes in the corners that may require more. I am considering a raise up top on hinges to make adjustments and motor removal easier so fastening the plate down securely is probably necessary. 

I chose the oak boards for framing due to feeling that they have the best chance of remaining stable of all the wood they sell at Lowe's. All I will have to do to prepare them is cut to length and do the half laps (which I admit would be easier if I already had a router table). Also, I did some calculating and realized that I could do a 1x3 banded edge if I used a sheet of 1/4 ply on the bottom as opposed to the 3/4 I have planned. I already have some here, just cheap flooring underlayment. Besides saving weight and getting the look of a thinner edge height as advantages, is there any disadvantage to using a thinner bottom material. 

Anyone who can see any design flaws, please post them. THANK YOU!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Not liking the no levellers approach . You seem more confident than I do , as I have a feeling I'm going to be doing this twice if not more . But hey it's all about learning right ! 
Looking very forward to seeing your build though


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Gravity will hold the plate down. If the plate is snug in the recess you won't need to lock it down. I really like being able to pop it all out to change bits and make major adjustments. The plate is also handy to leave on when doing edge routing, way more stability. There are a number of us with that type arrangement.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> I used some of that in a bathroom closet and over time it delaminated on me.


*Shocked!* They must have gone really thin on the glue...inexcusable. In theory, humid or not, it should be virtually impossible to break the glue bond before the wood itself breaks.
If I had to take a blind guess, it'd be that it's being imported from the Orient, just like everything else.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Aw PHOOEY!

I went to Lowe's today and looked at the oak wood I was planning to use, and it is no good. 1x2 in oak is too flexible, and off the shelf most of it was wavy looking like cheap pine fir strips. Now I am back to planning a double layer of plywood or MDF on a 2x4 frame. I don't have any faith that it will stay flat but at this point I don't know what else to do.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Duane I'm a newbie but my first attempt is going to be 3/4" mdf for the top and 3/4" plywood torsion box underneith . I actually used mdf for a router table before and it never sagged , but I removed the router when it wasn't in use . 
Mdf is normally extremely flat from what I've seen so far . Goes up 10 bucks a sheet every year though  
I'm just hoping I don't screw up the Formica when I glue it on top as I don't have a lot of confidence with that stuff for some reason . Did it years ago successfully though


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Sorry I cant be much help on the top because my router lift doesn't hang from the top. But if yours does. Don't buy one premade. You will be disappointed. It may sag. Sure some don't but at what cost. Tops are nice and work well if the plate is very well fitted and stays flush. A daunting task. I don't use a plate so my top can be made with just about anything. 

I think you received some good advise in another thread about the height. Put some effort in the fence and it will pay off big time. Adjustable throat and dust collection are paramount.

Al


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> . . . I will use a Kreg plate insert, and attempt to rout the recess to hold the plate WITHOUT levelers.


Now that you're leaning toward a laminated top, Rockler sells a cheap leveling hardware kit. See the picture below for the cutout dimensions for milling the recess for the Rockler 1/4" plate. It shows a half inch lip around the boarder. If you go this route just make sure that you make your depth an additional ~1/8" over your plate thickness.

* the eight smaller holes around the rim are the 8 leveling screws from the kit. The two larger holes are for threaded inserts so that the plate can be screwed down (also in the kit).


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Duane, since the old sticky threads were moved I think a lot of people are missing the great information they hold. Have you seen this?
http://www.routerforums.com/table-m...le-top-install-mounting-plate.html#post127219

As far as the stand issue here is my quick and easy solution. You can easily build your own fence with vacuum port too.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

For a stand, I have already bought what I wanted. I bought another Kobalt miter saw stand from Lowe's, identical to the one I have for my miter saw. See the pic below. This thing is large. I wanted it for the ability to move the whole thing in and out of the garage, possibly fold it up and take it with me for whatever reason, say a work day at a friend's shop, and also to simplify building a table to begin with. This way, all I really have to make is a bench top router table and mount it to this. It would even be removable. It stands at 32" to the top of the mounts, but they themselves are about 2" deep, so I can simply build a 10" rise to my table top and achieve an overall 42" height that I want and still have about a foot below the table for clearance to drop the motor out of the base if needed. As a bonus, the extensions on the stand can be modified for height, and used as infeed and outfeed support for longer boards.

I like the simple design of that table you have there, Mike. I wish I had the faith to believe I could just make one that simple and it wouldn't sag. That just looks like a single layer of plywood. Since I can see it is cut out for a plate, that is like cutting it nearly in half, leaving only the edges for support. How does it not sag under the router weight? I assume that is baltic birch, which I have no experience with, and it is not available locally off the shelf. I'd have to order it and have it delivered. Even that fence just looks like a double layer of what Lowe's sells as stain grade pine shelving, which I do have experience with. Mine delaminated on me where the edges were joined, and the whole thing cupped badly (used as shelving in a bathroom closet so maybe from humidity?). 

I have actually made a router table fence in the past, just once, but it worked well and I was planning a similar design again with a couple of extra features added. It is just the table top I seem to have so much trouble designing. Some say MDF with laminate will be good while others say that isn't good. I have read that a torsion box is the way to go but my available lumber choices all seem to be poor. I thought s4s oak boards would be the fix but last night I looked at some and they were terrible. Warp city! If they are that bad, I have no faith in plain old 2x4 pine staying straight, or plywood, or poplar (had some of this warp on me during a project once, bought it when straight, was crooked a week later). It is starting to feel hopeless. Am I overthinking this? The thing is, whatever material I use, it has to be mostly straight and flat to start with. I don't have a jointer or planer or band saw, only just a table saw for making any changes to straighten or flatten a board. Those oak boards were wavy and curved right off the shelf. Truthfully, I would rather keep it simpler than a torsion box anyway, and use 2x4 material as framing since it is readily available, and easily and cheaply replacable in case I mess it up while cutting. I have even seen some stay straight over long periods, but there is no way to tell how that will go. I want to use materials that I feel reasonably sure will stay straight and flat on into the future. Any idea what that will be?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I suspect if you put some material underneith the table to support it from warping that you'll get by instead of going to the trouble of a torsion box . 
I think your overthinking it in some ways as we're not building a piano here . So if it flexes a year from now do it again , lesson learned

But when I start my build thread I'm sure I'm going to overthink this to the extreme ! At least I'm hoping


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Btw I'm debating to remove my router and lift from the table when it's not in use for extended periods . Was going to make an mdf plate to pop in as a cover when there's no router installed.
This is on my table saw extension so it would be nice to have the hole covered . But this may not apply to your setup . Just a thought


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I see your in Kentucky . Dang that's to far away 
I was hoping you were a little closer like in Spokane Washinton , as I was going to tell you drive to my place and let's build this thing!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Duane, the table in the first photo is a Router Workshop table as seen on the TV show for 14 seasons. Bob(father) and Rick(son) always had 3+ hp routers installed and the table never sagged. The top is 3/4" Baltic Birch; the front, sides and base are 1/2" Baltic birch. This table design is strong enough that you can stand on it; support is within 12" on three sides. (The forums were started by grandson Mark.)

BrianS and I cut out the parts for several of my version of the table and I have one in use as does Brian. As I get the garage sorted out I will be replacing the photos that were lost a year ago so the complete build will be posted on the forums.


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## jcbrowne (Apr 15, 2015)

Duane,
True that it is much simpler to spend the money, but there is no greater satisfaction to build your own (with mistakes forming part of your learning curve).
In fact after it is completed (to the point you are satisfied with) you will have a fuller knowledge of the tool, also its limitations, to achieve the best of your skills and abilities as you build your projects.

I was not satisfied with the table router I have (a Delta) and launched on a project still in progress to build a combined router table to satisfy my dreams (just a way of saying). It will, when finished be a under table router, an overhead router (& pin) and the essence of the dream a horizontal router with a sliding (X and Y) table.

To date I am using all scrap wood and fixtures lying around in the shop. The elevating mechanism is an old Dewalt Radial Arm Saw (bought $25). The sliders are from a coffee shop demolition. The table includes a Shopsmith router table and fence I had unused. Spent to date is under $50.

Just to illustrate I attach some photos.

John


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

Fascinating concept John, but scary! I'd kill myself with that puppy.


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## jcbrowne (Apr 15, 2015)

Jeff,

Having studied the horizontal router tables I could find on the Internet, and looked at some plans which were available, I concluded that the critical point (which in many cases cannot be calibrated) to building a machine like that was the elevating mechanism.

A radial arm saw can be calibrated orbitally (aligned in all directions) to accommodate to the blade – cross-cuts, rip-cuts and miter cuts. You can eliminate column play and carriage play, the arm has keyed stops at 45°, 90° and 135° plus half circle locking. The rising mechanism is fully controlled (in this case 1 turn = 1/8") and locks at any set height.

Once the router is mounted instead of the RAS blade I can align the bit of the router in any position and lock it there.

I have been using radial arm saws for over 50 years now and found that with care they produce acceptable repetitivity. At least at my age this "contraption" will be much safer than trying to hold a router steady in my hand, and will avoid a multitude of jigs when routing edges, producing tenons or mortises.

I plan to finish the table next week but then...

John


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

I never cease to be amazed at the designs people come up with when inventing their dream tools. You gotta wonder why these never end up for sale on the market. 

Well, I have been absent for a couple of days. Doing research into this router table project. I got a bit frustrated at the lack of materials available here and started to also doubt my ability to even make a table and keep all my measurements, cuts, and assembly accurate and square. I began looking into prefabbed tables and table tops, and got interested in the Kreg table top and fence shown earlier in this thread. Also, today my wife found an ad in a local paper where she works (Huntington, WV) for Withrow's Woodworking Equipment and told me about it. I gave these guys a call and in talking to them I found that they don't have much of an online presence, so I missed them before, but they do have a large showroom, sell the Kreg router table and fence I am interested in so I can see it in person, and what's more, they have baltic birch plywood IN STOCK, in 5 x 5 foot square sheets, 3/4 and 1/2 inch thick! I can get a sheet of 3/4 for $50, and that is more than what I would need to build a table for myself, so now that is an option again. I am stoked to find a local source of this material. Yes it is a 45 minute drive to get it, and Saturday morning hours are all I will ever have to go to this store, but that is ok. It is within a few miles of a Cracker Barrel restaurant my wife loves anyway so that is incentive for going, and still cuts my drive time in half to go elsewhere looking for birch plywood. Closest I had found before was 75 miles away and they had to order it. I can't believe this place has been here the whole time. They just don't have much advertising, so somehow I had missed them. 

Another update is, I kibashed the miter saw stand as a base. I will either build a stand, or go bench top, or just buy a set up already completed. I had started thinking that this has become a hassle already from not finding what I needed, discovering additional hidden costs during planning (needing templates for cutting the hole for the plate, laminate rollers, and other odds and ends I hadn't considered) or even just doubting my abilities to make it. So far, I have not seen any table prefabbed that is made JUST the way I wanted it. I had my heart set on a 24x36 table with an offset mount, 8" from the edge, and 16" from the opposite edge, with a reversible fence. I have seen some offset tables, but they are set up to use the narrow side as the front instead of the longer side. I am sure there is a reason, but it seems like a lot of wasted surface. I wanted a long table and fence to slide wood across, but not a center mount so if I get that then I will have to build it. When it comes to laminating it, I don't know if I can do it or not. I feel the odds are good that I'll end up with an air bubble or debris under it. I was also considering a design using a dry erase board and just replace the board when worn out, to save laminating it. It is cheap, and may have problems I haven't considered, but if I can't laminate and ensure flatness, then what else can I do? Just leave the birch surface and use it as is?

Some of my doubts were based on using woods and materials I have no faith in remaining stable, flat, and square. Since discovering baltic birch within a reasonable drive distance, I now am interested to make what I wanted again, unless that Kreg table just wows me this coming Saturday. My budget is about $500 on this now, so it could go either way.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> I see your in Kentucky . Dang that's to far away
> I was hoping you were a little closer like in Spokane Washinton , as I was going to tell you drive to my place and let's build this thing!


Yeah that does suck, cause I am always looking for anyone else close by who is into woodworking. I got nobody.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Duane Bledsoe said:


> Well, I have been absent for a couple of days. Doing research into this router table project.................... My budget is about $500 on this now, so it could go either way.


I am glad to hear you have found a store much closer to your house with what you are looking for.

As I have said many times before to others, this is not a race. The one who takes his time, does his homework, and is willing to learn will be the one that wins.

Lots of sharp people in this forum with years of experience. Its what keeps me around.

Well done.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Duane as I mentioned I bought the incra top and fence . There router top is top notch , 1.5 inches thick ! Not trying to sway you towards Incra , just mentioning that I liked Timbertaylors idea of buying a top and building the stand myself . Doesn't get much better than that IMO 

I am building the router table top for my table saws extention and you'd laugh if you seen how much I've got into already . Won't be saving any money building it myself that's for sure , but I wanted it a specific size and I want the learning experience so I'm ok with it .


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Duane the last table I built cost $20-30 and worked the best of any table I've used. As I said earlier, there is literally no problem or mistake you can encounter that cannot be fixed. Relax.


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## jcbrowne (Apr 15, 2015)

Ratbob said:


> Fascinating concept John, but scary! I'd kill myself with that puppy.


Jeff, I finished the sliding table and gave the router table a first run to see how it worked. Nothing fancy, just testing operation.

You definitely would not kill yourself, on the contrary work was safer than I envisioned in the vertical mode (overhead). Nothing like seeing what you are doing.

Once the piece is fixed to the table, and the stops are set, you don't get near the spinning bit.

Next test is the horizontal mode.

John


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

That turned out pretty sweet John, ain't it great when a plan comes together? That does look much safer than I'd imagined!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Duane; a retired carpenter buddy has a homebuilt table with no gimmicky stuff, just a hole for the bit, and his Makita router clamped underneath the plywood top. You should see the stuff that he produces!
His shop isn't fancy but it's really efficient and well laid out (dble. car garage size).
Every time I get 'two footitis' re tools etc., I try and remember this is supposed to be fun... 
Try and _make_ the top first, if it ain't great so what? It's part of the learning curve; the next one will be better. You can always use the first one for making jigs out of.
If you don't want to laminate it, just throw some Urethane on it. You can always laminate it later if you choose. You don't _need _track...you can add that later as well.


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