# Switch...magnetic or "other"...?



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Getting ready to start using my old 12" table saw and I'd like some protection for power glitches...

I'd like a switch that will shut itself off and stay off on power interruption.

I've read there are magnetic and "latch relay"...

Don't know if there is a difference...would love a recommendation (yes, model nr, please)...

Saw is 220/2hp...

I'd also like a 110V for other whirley tools...

Thanks in advance...Nick...


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

Hi Nick

Try Grizzly


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Getting ready to start using my old 12" table saw and I'd like some protection for power glitches...
> 
> I'd like a switch that will shut itself off and stay off on power interruption.
> 
> ...


there is a book out there that you need as in have to have....
some have even said it has my name on it...
no matter how simple or complex of a set up it will be covered in this book...
it cost between 8 and 16$$$ depending where you get it...
any big box...
ACE...
Barnes and Noble..
internet...
you get the idea...










there's this one too...


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## oldwoodenshoe (Nov 28, 2011)

As an electronic engineer, I need to warn you to not just get the cheapest one. With motors, it is important to get one that is rated for the HP rating of your motor. There is a inrush current that the contacts have to be able to handle as well as breaking the inductive load of the motor. Switches with lower ratings won't last.

Glenn


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

boogalee said:


> Hi Nick
> 
> Try Grizzly


Call them. Give them your info and maybe they will suggest a switch. My 1023 3hp has that type of switch - push button style with paddle stop and provision for lockout device. Actually the saw came with a padlock for it.

Good luck.
Mike


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Thank you, Al, Stick, Glenn and Mike...got some shopping to do now...


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## Web Shepherd (Feb 8, 2012)

Nick ~ I'm in the same boat with you. I'm thinking of replacing my old Craftsman 2HP TS switch with the newer paddle-type switch. Year's ago when my son was 4 or 5 years old, he reached down and plugged in my table saw and it fired right up. Scared the hell out of both of us, but was a critical reminder to upgrade to the magnetic-type switch that shuts off when there is a power interruption. Here is the one that I'm looking at on Amazon. It had excellent reviews. But as Glenn recommended, be sure to match your switch to your motor amp rating. It's that initial electrical draw that is critical.

Let us know what you finally decide.

Bob


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Web Shepherd said:


> Nick ~ I'm in the same boat with you. I'm thinking of replacing my old Craftsman 2HP TS switch with the newer paddle-type switch. Year's ago when my son was 4 or 5 years old, he reached down and plugged in my table saw and it fired right up. Scared the hell out of both of us, but was a critical reminder to upgrade to the magnetic-type switch that shuts off when there is a power interruption. Here is the one that I'm looking at on Amazon. It had excellent reviews. But as Glenn recommended, be sure to match your switch to your motor amp rating. It's that initial electrical draw that is critical.
> 
> Let us know what you finally decide.
> 
> Bob


Thanks, Bob...I looked at the 4159 and decided it's 16 amp rating was low for me. I will be going with a magnetic contactor so the saw stays off after a power interruption...

Thanks again for your response...


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

Here that type of switch would be called a No-Volt Release or NVR switch. From the various links people have posted it looks like that terminology isn't used in the US though.


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## senebraskaee (Apr 29, 2012)

The books Stick recommended are like the "_____ for Dummies" series and are very good. Be aware that most (all?) paddle switches are just a fancy toggle switch with bigger buttons and are not magnetic starters. Just the price alone should tip you off to the difference. Magnetic starters are far superior but also command a higher price. You gets what you pays for.


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## Web Shepherd (Feb 8, 2012)

Hello all ~ Nick's original question about table saw switches has inspired me to do a little more searching on-line. Holy cow, there are several long strings on the subject, including Lumber Jocks. To complicate matters, another poster asked if magnetic contactor switches could be accidentally turned on when bumped. Apparently this is the case. For the complete article ... read more. I'm running for cover.

Bob


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Web Shepherd said:


> Hello all ~ Nick's original question about table saw switches has inspired me to do a little more searching on-line. Holy cow, there are several long strings on the subject, including Lumber Jocks. To complicate matters, another poster asked if magnetic contactor switches could be accidentally turned on when bumped. Apparently this is the case. For the complete article ... read more. I'm running for cover.
> 
> Bob


Yes, Bob...exactly the reason I posted...lots of options and mfg's...

...and I don't think the 4159 you mentioned is a magnetic switch...might want to take another peek at that.

If going magnetic the options seem to be remote contactor with a low voltage signal or fully incorporated in one box. I'm going with remote with a mechanical paddle for convenience. Low voltage and current at the switch, high power availability at the contactor. Sort of like a starter relay on cars.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Web Shepherd said:


> Hello all ~ Nick's original question about table saw switches has inspired me to do a little more searching on-line. Holy cow, there are several long strings on the subject, including Lumber Jocks. To complicate matters, another poster asked if magnetic contactor switches could be accidentally turned on when bumped. Apparently this is the case. For the complete article ... read more. I'm running for cover.
> 
> Bob


I like this thread as this is an interesting topic . My general table saw has what I believe is a magnetic switch , and you have to press the off part of the switch first then the on part in the centre or it doesn't activate . 
I would like to find a quality one for a router table just like it . Not impossible to bump on , but it may help.
After reading that article though I'm glad I unplug my saw when I change blades :fie:
I'm going to try bumping mine to see if I can make it trigger . Will update


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> I like this thread as this is an interesting topic . My general table saw has what I believe is a magnetic switch , and you have to press the off part of the switch first then the on part in the centre or it doesn't activate .
> I would like to find a quality one for a router table just like it . Not impossible to bump on , but it may help.
> After reading that article though I'm glad I unplug my saw when I change blades :fie:
> I'm going to try bumping mine to see if I can make it trigger . Will update


Agreed, Rick...and then I started to think "will I leave the saw plugged in when I move it?"...probably not...and..."will I leave it plugged in when I change the blade"...also not likely...

Earlier in the thread I posted that I thought the 4159 might not have been a magnetic switch...it actually is...my apologies to the poster...(Bob - Web Sheperd)

If you have the time and skill there is plenty of material that would allow for remote activation/deactivation much like a low voltage signal and high voltage for load. Not much different actually than the thermostat for your air or heat. 12, 24, 48 and even 110V contactors are available to accept a low voltage signal and transfer power. In this instance though, the signal is still mechanical and could be subject to "bumping"...even though the actual contacts could be on the motor or wall or across the shop...

I guess the answer is unplug when not using...

What I would like to protect is me during a power blip so I don't have to worry where my limbs are when the power comes back on...with my luck I'll be searching for the switch when the power comes back... For that I'm sure there's plenty available, both shop-built and commercial...

...and yes...lots of reading material available...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Nick I have to figure out some kind of a cut off for my TS as I'm going to wire it into the ceiling above the saw . Maybe have to throw a breaker when I change blades I guess because I'm not going to set up a ladder and climb to the ceiling to disconnect a twist lock receptacle every time . Or stead of a breaker a double throw wall switch rated for 20 amps? The TS is 220


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Rick...my Darra James has a switch on the cabinet that actually looks and acts like a breaker...this "motor controller" sits ahead of the TS switch and acts just like the double pole wall switch/breaker you referred to. And I believe you noted both sides have to be open or you will still have 110V on one leg...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Nickp said:


> Rick...my Darra James has a switch on the cabinet that actually looks and acts like a breaker...this "motor controller" sits ahead of the TS switch and acts just like the double pole wall switch/breaker you referred to. And I believe you noted both sides have to be open or you will still have 110V on one leg...


Yes both sides have to open . I guess it would make more sense to have a secondary switch right at the TS . Not that hard to wire one in , as I had to wire the TS up originally as it didn't even come with a cord


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

AndyL said:


> Here that type of switch would be called a No-Volt Release or NVR switch. From the various links people have posted it looks like that terminology isn't used in the US though.


Andy,

Low Voltage Protection and Low Voltage release (LVP LVR) are the two terms I am familiar with.

LVP - de-energizes motor on low voltage and keeps it from automatically restarting

LVR - de-energizes motor on low voltage and restarts when the voltage is restored to normal


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

A vertical cable (vertical anything) anywhere near the saw is going to be a royal p.i.t.a. when you're trying to manoeuvre a panel or long lumber/trim lengths onto/off the saw. Not the end of the World, but you might want to take that into consideration, Rick.

Here's the other option(s)...
https://www.google.com/search?q=cab...oTCOSnyrvxpscCFQKViAodLoQHOA&biw=1920&bih=898


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

oldwoodenshoe said:


> As an electronic engineer, I need to warn you to not just get the cheapest one. With motors, it is important to get one that is rated for the HP rating of your motor. There is a inrush current that the contacts have to be able to handle as well as breaking the inductive load of the motor. Switches with lower ratings won't last.
> 
> Glenn


I agree with Rick--great thread. 

Question for Glenn--Should a switch rating be matched to the motor, or is larger rating than the motor okay as well? A glance at the Grizzly page showed a 240v, 1 phase, 5 HP switch at less money than the 3 HP version (if I read it right, I've closed the page!!) 

Just trying to learn!! Thanks for the info.

earl


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> A vertical cable (vertical anything) anywhere near the saw is going to be a royal p.i.t.a. when you're trying to manoeuvre a panel or long lumber/trim lengths onto/off the saw. Not the end of the World, but you might want to take that into consideration, Rick.
> 
> Here's the other option(s)...
> https://www.google.com/search?q=cab...oTCOSnyrvxpscCFQKViAodLoQHOA&biw=1920&bih=898


That's a great idea Dan , but it doesn't address the 4" vacuum duct . I am going to put duct up on the ceiling for dust collection and drop a soft line down to the right rear hand side of the table saw. This is why put the kibosh on a router table in my extension wing .
May as well have the power up there while I'm at it. The cords wil not fall out as I'm using twist lock receptacles . All the wall 220 receptacles are twist lock now at over $100 a pop.
Oh and I'll insulate first :|


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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

I reside in an area that has power failures ranging from momentary to several hours.

Once while running the router in the router table, the power briefly went off and on and restarted the router. Glad I had a good grip on the work and it almost caused a nicotine stain in my Fruit of the Looms. Started to look for some type of safety switch for my 110 v tools. Found what I was looking for- -"Safety Gate Professional". Plug it into the wall outlet, the plug the tool into it. When the power fails, you must reset it to resume power to the tool. Bought two several years for the princely sum of US $23.99 each and the price is still the same. UL, OSHA, and CSA approved. 

SafetyGate? Professional | Safestart Systems LLC

Order from the Safety Gate on-line store -- SafetyGate --> Protect Yourself from Dangerous Restarts In And Around The Home

Lee Valley offers a 12 gauge, 2 ' long, 3 prong power receptacle GFCI power cord that must be re-set in the event of a power failure. Plug it into the wall, the tool(s) into it. See: Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) - Lee Valley Tools

There was a time when stationary equipment was available with optional low voltage power controls and a magnetic starter (on/off switch). When I bought my Uni-saw back in 1988, I opted for that option and glad I did. Not sure if such options are still available or if the latest generation of magnetic starter made them "obsolete." 

As I was advised by an electrician, if you are looking into a magnetic control, find a well-stocked commercial electrical supplier and explain your need. Bring along your motor size, voltages, amp rating, circuit breaker size, etc. From what was told, not all magnetic starters/switches are built the same and you must size them to your needs and power supply.


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