# adjustable out fence?



## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

In my never ending search for a way of getting very straight edges to small pieces of wood, has any one got or know of an adjustable out feed fence, so I can use the router table as a sideways planer?

Seems to me to be a gap in the market here, or is there something I dont know which will make the idea unworkable?


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

I will use a router table for jointing the edges of boards and it doesn't require a fancy fence.
I'll usually use a spiral end mill for smoothest results.
Use any straight fence. One the outfeed side simply stick one (or more) layers of blue (or green) tape. Set the edge of the bit flush to the taped side.
When done, peel the tape off.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bob, build this simple fence and cut 1/32" or 1/16" off the leading edge. You get dust collection too.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

There definitely are plans out there for such a fence. Given that you only need a very small amount of offset (1/16" or so), 4D's tape approach or similar makes a lot of sense. Not having to worry about the fence being 100% straight makes a split fence somewhat undesirable.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

In my uploads is a picture of the last fence I made. It was fairly simple to build and had moveable and shimable faces. You can shim the outfeed side for jointing. Plastic playing cards make excellent shims. They are very uniform in thickness. I liked the fact I could close the gap around the bit. It made me feel a little safer even though I have quite a few years experience using routers and router tables.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

This is the first fence I built from the plans in ShopNotes #1. A thin piece of plastic or HPL dropped behind the out feed face does the trick.

"Keep it simple"


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

I have a split fence, with extraction, which works quite well to keep the cutter gap as small as possible, but i just tried packing out the out feed and got a small snipe on the cut face as the wood pressed into the out fence, and a bigger snipe at the end.
Did I just not measure well enough?
are feather boards necessary on this operation? i'm just using push sticks.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Keep pressure against the in feed side of the fence until you have to switch to the out feed side.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

More on this.
Would keep the waste to <1/32"/pass. Jointing is aggressive and the router and cutter
take a heck of beating here. Jointing should be left to the jointer.
One exception: Those materials that require carbide.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I have fallen out of my share of trees Pat.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Bob:
Here's a link to a post I submitted with a router fence I made - has an adjustable outfeed fence that supports a piece of laminate for jointing operations.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/68362-table-top-joining-3.html#post670106

Vince


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Mike said:


> Keep pressure against the in feed side of the fence until you have to switch to the out feed side.


thats what I did. i must have not lined it up properly.


"Jointing should be left to the jointer.
One exception: Those materials that require carbide."

I dont have a jointer, I have very few tools for my hobby and they all have to multi task. The router table has to do the job, one way or another.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

vchiarelli said:


> Bob:
> Here's a link to a post I submitted with a router fence I made - has an adjustable outfeed fence that supports a piece of laminate for jointing operations.
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/68362-table-top-joining-3.html#post670106
> ...


Vince, i have a home made adjustable fence, it seems its operator error (again). i need to spend more time fine checking measurements


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bob, did you click the link Quillman posted? It shows how to check the out feed fence with the bit using a long steel ruler.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Mike, what on earth are you doing up at this time? I'm 7 hours ahead of New York, and its not quite 10 am here!

Yes I did look at that. I thought I had done the math properly on mine. I used a trend gauge http://static.axminster.co.uk/media...eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/5/0/500253_xl.jpg

to get the cutter 1mm in front of both fences, then packed out the out fence by 1mm.But I got two distinct snipes, the last one as the wood finished was very big, and the first one as the wood transferred to the other fence wasnt as big, but still ruined the edge.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

sunnybob said:


> Mike, what on earth are you doing up at this time? I'm 7 hours ahead of New York, and its not quite 10 am here!
> 
> Yes I did look at that. *I thought I had done the math properly *on mine. *I used a trend gauge* http://static.axminster.co.uk/media...eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/5/0/500253_xl.jpg
> 
> *to get the cutter 1mm in front of both fences, then packed out the out fence by 1mm*.But I got two distinct snipes, the last one as the wood finished was very big, and the first one as the wood transferred to the other fence wasnt as big, but still ruined the edge.


Bob

Can't tell from your picture what you used to bump out your outfeed fence.

I don't do any math.
But I do the steps in a different order.
First, I place the laminate into the adjustable outfeed fence.
Then I use a straight edge to get the outfeed fence *ON THE SAME PLANE* as the edge of the bit. The fixed infeed fence takes care of itself.

I use a piece of laminate that is long enough to ensure the full length of the outfeed fence is bumped out evenly. The amount of material I remove is equal to the thickness of the laminate.

The important key here is:
The two fences must be parallel but must not be on the same plane.

If you've done that, and still get snipe (which you shouldn't) then ensure that you maintain even pressure against the infeed fence as the wood enters the cutter, then ensure that you maintain even pressure against the outfeed fence once the workpiece makes contact with the outfeed side.

Snipe, at least on a joiner, is usually caused by fences that are not parallel.

Hope that helps


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

before any packing, the fences are parallel. they are backed by an mdf full width board, and are made from decorative wood laminated chip board.
My packing was fairly basic, (folded paper) but I checked the amount of packing with a vernier gauge before inserting it, and then checked the gap between fence and packing board with the vernier gauge as i tightened the bolts holding the fence to the backing board.

If there is a mis match, its minute. But, it didnt work, so obviously I have gone off track somewhere.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

sunnybob said:


> before any packing, the fences are parallel. they are backed by an mdf full width board, and are made from decorative wood laminated chip board.
> My packing was fairly basic, (folded paper) but I checked the amount of packing with a vernier gauge before inserting it, and then checked the gap between fence and packing board with the vernier gauge as i tightened the bolts holding the fence to the backing board.
> 
> If there is a mis match, its minute. But, it didnt work, so obviously I have gone off track somewhere.


Does your packing run the full length of the outfeed fence? Not sure I would use folded paper. Perhaps when you tighten the bolts, they are exerting different amounts of pressure??

Have you ensured that the outfeed fence is exactly on the same plane as the edge of your bit.

I place a straight edge against the outfeed fence and the edge of the bit. Rotate the bit to ensure that it just kisses the straight edge, but does not move it as I rotate the bit by hand. Withe the router unplugged of course.

Can you post a picture of the workpiece showing the snipe?


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

If you'd rather buy one, I've never used it, nor could I afford it but I saw this one on Woodpeckers Woodpeckers Super Fence Very expensive, but says it does what your looking for.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

I'm going to have to put this thread on hold now, We are off to the airport in 2 hours, flying back to the UK to see the grandkids for 3 weeks. I shall have limited internet access, only checking in every few days.
Thanks for the advice, and NO, I cant afford the woodpecker! (lol).

Got to get my big clothes on now, the temp here is 40c (104F), just got out the pool at 30c (86F) and am flying to a country that thinks 25c (77F) is a heat wave! BRRRR>


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Bob, Have you tried a well tuned good old fashion hand plane?


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

oh man, hand plane is a whole 'nother story. I've bought all my plane blades back to the UK with me for my son to sharpen on his tormek system. He's a second fix / shop fitter carpenter with 20 years experience, and I'm a first time no nothing wanna be woodworker. I'm hoping he can teach me something.

But I desperately need a machine to replace the 5 year apprenticeship I don't have time for (g)


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Yah, same thing here. All I here is 'how hot it is' ...gimmee a break; it's barely 80F.
As soon as the rains come back they'll be whining about _that_!


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