# Air Compressor done?



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

My little 8 gal BCP air compressor that I keep in the basement wouldn't go when plugged in. Nothing. Question is ...... what could it be and is it worth fixing. It is 15 years old or better. I'm thinking control valve. Is it worth fixing or just buying another small one. All I use it for is blowing dust off the CNC bed and benches, and a little finish nailing. A new control valve itself is $30+.

HJ


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

I'm more of a fixer type...I'd rather spend $30 than $100 on a small new one...IF...the rest is in good shape...no rust, motor good, connections, control valves, etc...

You could also use the exhaust port of a shop vac (if it has one) to do what you need (in a pinch)...


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Touble is, I don't know if it's the control valve. I'm just guessing. The rest of it is in good shape. Just been sitting in the basement or garage. Hardly ever even moved.

HJ


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

John, put it up on the bench so you don't have to bend over; step #1.
Take the switch box completely apart and give it a really good cleaning...check the contacts for crud, and loose connections. Disconnect the cord and check it for continuity.
Once you've eliminated _everything_ electrical, then start on the control mechanisms. Been down this road with my old Campbell Hausfield.
I did eventually replace all the air pressure activated parts but that was more of a midlife rebuild; they didn't owe me anything. My original issues were strictly electrical contact related.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

John it being so old do you think it's worth fixing? This is one of those things that could go either way.


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## kklowell (Dec 26, 2014)

After seeing pictures on here of an exploded air tank, I'd consider the possibility of rust in the tank in my fix/replace equation.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

kklowell said:


> After seeing pictures on here of an exploded air tank, I'd consider the possibility of rust in the tank in my fix/replace equation.


You beat me to it


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

clean the contacts on the pressure switch...
check the start capacitor... if it has one...
test out the motor...

.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Cheap compressors are oil-less. That means after about 500 hours, most give up the ghost. Personally, I'd just get another. Some things are repairable, some might be but aren't worth repiaring, and some things just need to be trashed. If the compressor is frozen, it's probably done. Perhaps you can revive it, but 15 years is a long run for an oil-less unit. Who knows the condition of the tank. Did you ALWAYS drain the air and any moisture in the tank. I doubt that, I am fussy and I can't claim yes to that question.


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## Lucky Irish (Mar 7, 2015)

You made sure the outlet works?


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Outlet has juice. It had some rusty water in the tank --- No, I didn't always drain it. It is oilless.

HJ


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Took the pressure control valve/switch apart. Found a burned contact on an angle. Straightened it out and got a buzz when I plugged it in. So I'm pretty sure that's the problem. Now ....... I got springs and parts all over and don't have a clue how to put them back if I had to. Need a new valve anyway, right? So I called the 800 # on the sticker for RMM. Recorded message. Lady says "BCP air compressor parts are no longer available". So, I'll look on the net and see see if I come up with one by chance. Or, I was wondering if I can get the fittings to work, can I use a different valve and just zip tie it or something to the unit? Don't they all just have air in and air out with the same 6 wires?

Or, forget it and buy a new one for $150-200.

Like the other post says - one of the signs of something old is "discontinued".

HJ


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Agri-Supply in NC has one that looks like it'll work. $18 + $6 shipping. It's worth the gamble to at least try. I think these compressors all use the same 8 or ten pressure switches from outside suppliers. I know my 30 gal Kobalt has one that can be had from an outside source.

We'll see.

HJ


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

that is one part that is pretty much universal...
15 bucks, give or take...
https://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i:aps,k:Air Compressor Pressure Switch
even the big boxes have them...
square D makes the best ones..


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Thanks, Stick. I looked on Ebay, but not Amazon. Looks like the LeFoo one is what I need.

HJ


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

John it's easy to tell if it the pressure switch although I think you have it pegged correctly. The pressure switches job is to start the compressor at a given (low) set point and stop it at a given (high) set point. If you bypass the switch and connect directly to the motor you can tell if it is the switch or the motor. Just remember that you have to take the place of the pressure switch and shut it off before it over pressures.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

I'd look for a square D...
my 28 YO Rolair is still going strong... FWTIW...


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Youre not sure how to put it back together.
Youre not sure if the replacement will work or even fit.
The tank is rusty. An exploded compressor tank is not a pretty sight, nor would anybody nearby be either.

Your LIFE is in danger here for the sake of a hundred dollars.

BUY NEW.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> Did you ALWAYS drain the air and any moisture in the tank. I doubt that, I am fussy and I can't claim yes to that question.


 @DesertRatTom

Tom,

This is what I ended up doing. Ball valve with screen brass unit on end of hose.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Ross; that's brilliant! Why didn't I think of that? I hate fumbling around under the tank with that moronic wing-nut setup. I'm all over that tomorrow. Thanks!!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"Your LIFE is in danger here for the sake of a hundred dollars."
-Bob

?!...a hundred dollar compressor? Same guys that make the $29 router? 

(Probably not exactly what you meant, Bob; just pulling your chain.)
About Air Compressors


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Ross; that's brilliant! Why didn't I think of that? I hate fumbling around under the tank with that moronic wing-nut setup. I'm all over that tomorrow. Thanks!!


Thanks Dan. 

I didn't even have the wing nut just a brass plug. Really got sick of laying on the concrete floor to drain it. I've made this so that I can leave it open and air. I can also get the valve handle with my foot.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Ross; that's brilliant! Why didn't I think of that? I hate fumbling around under the tank with that moronic wing-nut setup. I'm all over that tomorrow. Thanks!!


didn't you know that all compressor owners follow Ross's great lead...


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Thanks Stick.


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## Knot2square (Jul 11, 2015)

Had a problem with mine once and it ended up being a glass fuse inside of the motor casing. Why they put it there still boggles my mind. You have to take the motor cover off to find it. Why would they do that for such an easy fix? My guess is so people would take it to them to fix and get charged a fee for service work, or buy a new tool.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I had a problem that turned out to be a reset button, simple fix had I known where to look. But you can get a 3 gallon compressor for under a 100 dollars any day of the week off Amazon and for about $50 dollars at Harbor Freight after their 20% off coupons. Put on a service contract and you are still at around $60 dollars. I'm a proponent for buying quality but quality is hard to find in a 3 gallon compressor (and that would be plenty for bowing off dust, even an overkill) Besides with their service contract you can take it back at the end of three years for any reason and exchange it for a new one. Then buy a new service contract and start all over again.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

John you can't take your money with you , just man up and buy one of these bad boys , a dual stage . 
I'm getting this one as soon as the garage is insulated next year . I can't fix the economy single handedly , help me out here a bit


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Apparently not...*



Stick486 said:


> didn't you know that all compressor owners follow Ross's great lead...


Over the years, I've replaced that ridiculous drain device at least three times, with new ones of the same style. *embarrassment*

:crying:


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> John you can't take your money with you , just man up and buy one of these bad boys , a dual stage .
> I'm getting this one as soon as the garage is insulated next year . I can't fix the economy single handedly , help me out here a bit


Rick, I don't have any $$ to take or leave. Just a retired guy living on a social security stipend, having to sell what items I can make for a pittance. I like the 8 gal in the basement to move around when I need to. The garage has the 30 gal Kobalt.

HJ


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

old55 said:


> @DesertRatTom
> 
> Tom,
> 
> This is what I ended up doing. Ball valve with screen brass unit on end of hose.


You can also go to a parts store for big trucks and get a 1/4" spring loaded valve with a pull cable attached. We had them on the air tanks on all the trucks to manually drain the air tanks, in case the air dryer malfunctioned.

HJ


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Over the years, I've replaced that ridiculous drain device at least three times, with new ones of the same style. *embarrassment*
> 
> :crying:


I've re-plumbed all of mine f9or easy access...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I just got back from the bldg. supply; out of stock.
But the counter guy told me of _his_ experience on a jobsite. The end of the tank blew off, went right through the plywood sheathing and broke two studs.


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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

"Outlet has juice. It had some rusty water in the tank --- No, I didn't always drain it...."
-- Honest John

Seriously consider saving up for a replacement. It is 15 years old and rust in the tank water is an indicator sign that the tank is rusting from the inside out and will develop pin hole air leaks or a catastrophic tank failure. Whether an oil bath or oil-less, or an aluminum or cast iron pump, develop the habit of draining the air tank after each day's use. Preventative maintenance is inexpensive insurance and delays tool replacement/failure. 

As an aside, 'bout 25 + years ago, my old compressor tank leaked from pin hole as I did not always drain it. "Gifted" it to a friend who found the leak, welded it up. Held air for awhile, then another leak developed, welded it, then another. He finally replaced the tank at almost the cost of new compressor.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

https://www.kmstools.com/ingersoll-rand-2hp-20-gallon-compressor-91156
https://www.kmstools.com/campbell-hausfeld-2hp-20-gallon-portable-compressor-10539

Shocked I tell ya...
https://www.kmstools.com/king-canada-1-5-hp-air-compressor-2634

A $100 oil lubed compressor ...coulda knocked me over with a feather


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> https://www.kmstools.com/ingersoll-rand-2hp-20-gallon-compressor-91156
> https://www.kmstools.com/campbell-hausfeld-2hp-20-gallon-portable-compressor-10539
> 
> Shocked I tell ya...
> ...


That's a good deal. It will run brad nailers and staplers, might have to wait once in a while if running a framing nailer but that's a different ballgame. For about twice that much I bought a "Hot Rod" brand twin stacked tank compressor from Canadian Tire a while back. Excellent performance and will run a 1/2" impact if you are willing to wait a little at times. The downside is that at close to 100 pounds is almost not portable.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Put the new pressure control switch on .... and now it buzzes but won't run. There's a gray and blue capacitor soldered on the top of top motor. Took them off and it still buzzes.

Thinking replacement about now and cannibalizing this one for parts.

HJ


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

John I don't remember if you said how big the motor is but maybe you can find a new one as salvage if you have the ability to make a new mount for it. Some washing machine motors are easily reused. Some have extra wires and aren't. They are about 1/2 horse.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> John I don't remember if you said how big the motor is but maybe you can find a new one as salvage if you have the ability to make a new mount for it. Some washing machine motors are easily reused. Some have extra wires and aren't. They are about 1/2 horse.


What they want for a motor is as much or more than a new compressor. Thinking of just getting a new one and using all the accessories and stuff from this one. That'd also give me an extra control valve, pop off, pressure guage, tank, and nifty cart to mount something on - like a shopvac and dust deputy. Could also use the tank and with a plug or two and a couple fittings, double the air capacity of the new one. This one doesn't owe me anything, but still hated to see it die.

HJ


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I did much the same thing John. Took the tank and valves and p switch off one, added an air tank from a logging truck for extra capacity and then got a Sanborn twin cylinder head and put a motor I had on it. Luckily I had a 3hp 3450 Baldor that wasn't doing anything. That made apretty good setup for a stationary shop air supply.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Bit the bullet and spent the extra $20 for the DeWalt. Hopefully it was made with "better" Chinese parts. Both Husky and Kobalt had a lot of returns, and CH was top on the list, but had to be ordered. This was the last one in stock at Lowes. It's put together, and running thru the break in cycle right now. Good nuff for blowing dust off carvings and stuff, and running a finish nailer for some real projects. It's an oiler so hopefully will last for at least the 20 years the other oil less one did










HJ


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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

"It's an oiler so hopefully will last for at least the 20 years the other oil less one did"
--HonestJohn

If you or anyone else are serious 'bout extending the life of the unit, drain the tank after each day's use to prevent a build up of water/moisture which will eventually cause the tank to rust out and leak. And this applies to an oil bath pump or an oil-less pump. 

And a yearly oil change will not hurt either. Depending upon usage, a more frequent oil change might be called for. On my 25 gallon tank, I applied a piece of duct tap with the date the oil was last changed as a reminder. Preventative maintenance is cheap insurance against an early tool failure or
part(s) replacement....


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Good points Ray . I gave one away as it kept blowing my breakers . When he got it going it blew a hole in the tank . I always forgot to drain it


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