# Looking for A Certain Bit....



## Keyser Soze (Dec 30, 2007)

I am working on a little side project and am in need of some help.

I am making up 4 or 6 little shelves (approx 8" x 8" x 7/8") and they are going to be mounted on a strip of wood (8" wide x 1" tall x 1" thick) against the wall. I'd like for these shelves to attach to the mounting strip yet be easily removed... ideally they would slide off of the wall mount (left or right).

Is there a bit that would give me a keyhole-type profile to make this work?

I know I've seen something that would accomplish this but my mind is a bit frazzled these days...

Thanks in advance.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Keyser

I would suggest using a dovetail bit,,,

They will let you hide the joint plus it will slip on or off easy..

You can also make a French Cleat hanger build into the back of the shelve

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Keyser Soze said:


> I am working on a little side project and am in need of some help.
> 
> I am making up 4 or 6 little shelves (approx 8" x 8" x 7/8") and they are going to be mounted on a strip of wood (8" wide x 1" tall x 1" thick) against the wall. I'd like for these shelves to attach to the mounting strip yet be easily removed... ideally they would slide off of the wall mount (left or right).
> 
> ...


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## Keyser Soze (Dec 30, 2007)

Thanks Bob-

So - dumb question but are there 2 bits for the dovetail or just one and the cuts are staggered?

I'm a noob when it comes to woodworking. We don't have dovetails in metal work


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Keyser

Many types of dovetail bits and many sizes,see below, but the one I would use would be the 1/2" ,14 deg. one, it takes to parts a male(pin) and female(pocket) the pin would slide inside the pocket, called a blind or sliding dovetail joint..both joints can be put in with one router bit.

A very easy joint to put in the stock 
OR
You can use the Sliding Tee-Slot joint

45° Wall Bracket Dovetail
http://pricecutter.com/product.asp?pn=P13-2242

T-Slot Router Bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...html/pages/bt_keyhl.html#T-slot_cutter_Anchor


http://www.cmtusa.com/store/index1....oducts.ihtml&titleimage=titles_routerbits.jpg

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/qt-1.htm
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/ss-p1-1.htm

By the way you do have dovetails in metal working, take look at your metal drill press vise..


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Keyser Soze said:


> Thanks Bob-
> 
> So - dumb question but are there 2 bits for the dovetail or just one and the cuts are staggered?
> 
> I'm a noob when it comes to woodworking. We don't have dovetails in metal work


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

Hi Stephen,

Many manufacturers offer variants on this bit:

http://www.freudtools.com/images/PRODUCT/large/162.jpg


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Hi BJ,

Just a quick note on your dovetail and T-joint drawings.

When I first looked at it, the T-joint confused me for a second (I used to be a draftsman so it only took a second). The reason it confused me were the extra lines showing up. The wood with the dovetail and T-joint are one piece I believe, just wondering if it's possible with the program you draw with to remove the lines between the joint and the piece of wood it's attached to? The dovetail joint has one extra line in it and the T-joint has 2 extra lines in it.

For someone that hasn't seen these types of joints it might be a bit hard to tell what's going on. Not a criticism as you are one of the most helpful people on this site and are much appreciated by all, I'm sure of that. Just hoping to clarify the picture a bit.

Thanks BJ,

Ed.......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ed

Thanks ,I did go back and clean it up a just a bit to make it easyer to get.

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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Nice job BJ......

Ed......


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## Keyser Soze (Dec 30, 2007)

Thanks gents - I appreciate the feedback. I think the "T" joint looks like a winner.... may do what I need.

So if my material is 7/8" poplar what would be a good size for the joint? Is there a rule of thumb to follow?

I am also going to add in a rare Earth magnet or two into the assembly to lock it into place while mounted. There's something about magnets.... 

Oh and as far as dovetails in metal working... that was sort of tongue in cheek. My typical response is: WELD IT DAMMIT!  

Uh - there's no way to weld wood is there???


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

You CAN weld wood....but it renders it virtually useless....

That is, once it's heat has been disipated through a fire, it becomes rather useless.

Ed.......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Stephen

hahahahahahaha WELD IT DAMMIT! I like hahahahaha

The Tee slot is a easy one to put in, just use a tee-slot bit and the table saw to make the other part.

"Uh - there's no way to weld wood is there??? " Well yes and no, some of the new glues are like welding the wood, it sinks/soaks into the wood and makes a good bond..just like a good weld job in away.. LOL LOL

Happy New Year Stephen

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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Keyser Soze said:


> My typical response is: WELD IT DAMMIT!
> 
> Uh - there's no way to weld wood is there???


That's what glue is for.


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## Keyser Soze (Dec 30, 2007)

Glue? That is SO 1880's...


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## Keyser Soze (Dec 30, 2007)

Kristin D said:


> Especially Weldwood® glue, the name says it all.
> 
> As for Stephen's "I'm a noob when it comes to woodworking. We don't have dovetails in metal work" I don't know how about the crossslide and tailstock on a lathe, machine ways on a milling machine, drill press etc. sure look like dovetails to me!   Not to mention the round variety, collets & morse taper!
> 
> ...


Weldwood... so can I touch it right after application or does it need to cool first...??? Hahahaha.. just kidding.

Dovetails - it was a J-O-K-E! Aaaahhhh!!!!!! <-- That was a scream BTW.


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## Keyser Soze (Dec 30, 2007)

Hmmm... point taken.

Now I'm afraid to even mention my deep desire to powdercoat the wood...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi --Stephen

hahahahahahahaha powdercoat , maybe a little baby powdered but other than that your SOL hahahaha


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Keyser Soze said:


> Hmmm... point taken.
> 
> Now I'm afraid to even mention my deep desire to powdercoat the wood...


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## Keyser Soze (Dec 30, 2007)

I suggest copious amounts of WD40 and a flick of a Bic lighter. After the :::foooomp!!!::: noise has stopped echoing in your ear - the timbers will be magically separated... as will any doors from their hinges and paint from their walls.

JOKE! Please do NOT try this at home. YMMV.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

hahahahahahaha I'm a kid at heart and I love to burn the ants with a can of WD40 and a Bic lighter, that WD40 stuff makes a great flame torch LOL
And I Yes I know DANGER,DANGER WILL ROBINSON but kids do dumb things.

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Keyser Soze said:


> I suggest copious amounts of WD40 and a flick of a Bic lighter. After the :::foooomp!!!::: noise has stopped echoing in your ear - the timbers will be magically separated... as will any doors from their hinges and paint from their walls.
> 
> JOKE! Please do NOT try this at home. YMMV.


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## Keyser Soze (Dec 30, 2007)

OK straying back on topic....

If my material is 7/8" thich what would be a safe size for the dovetail/T to be? Maybe 1/2" at the widest part of the dovetail?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Stephen

You"er right on, 1/2" one ,set the depth to 3/8" deep when you make the pass,when you get setup to make the pin Don't move the router up or down (that's to say don't change the setting) BUT you may need to the pin just a little bit smaller by .010 so the pin can side into the dovetail pocket easy,test the fit b/4 you make them all...


It's best to use a router table to do this job but a hand router will do just fine, but you will need to use the fence that came with your router...

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## Keyser Soze (Dec 30, 2007)

Great - thanks. I was planning on making the pin a bit smaller but was going to experiment with the amount (given it will be painted and such).

I'll give this a run - maybe today - and report back.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome --Stephen

Painting is a big deal when it comes to dovetails,,,(a light spray job works best) and because you can see the joint the norm just a light primer coat/clear sealer will do the job, the joint will expand with humidity/moisture, that's what they did in the old days, hand cut the dovetail joint and then soaked it with water and with a bit of water base hide glue it would be lock because the filbers would expand 

The dovetail joint is a locking joint the norm..many make a nice sliding dovetail joint and then seal the project and then the parts will not fit without resanding the joint 



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Keyser Soze said:


> Great - thanks. I was planning on making the pin a bit smaller but was going to experiment with the amount (given it will be painted and such).
> 
> I'll give this a run - maybe today - and report back.


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## Keyser Soze (Dec 30, 2007)

Well... best laid plans and all... my project has been bumped AGAIN... yeeeesh... too much on my plate... and it just got added to.

Joy.

:::sigh:::


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