# New Freud 1700 - Yay - Ooops -Oww - Baaww!



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Well, got the combo kit in from Peachtree last nite and decided to play today. I will say there is a heck of a difference between a 11 amp and a 13 amp motor... regardless what the HP rating is. That and the Freud has a lot better visibility with the plunge base than my Hitachi.
Only issue I really had was I got an 8mm collet instead of 1/4". Everything was just peachy.... Until.......
I went to change the bit and had all the plunge mechanism compressed. I got distracted, LOML walkend in and started talking to me, and I hit the release on the plunge without having a good grip on the thing. Naturally it came undone with a bang. Must have dislodged something because I can only get about half inch of plunge out of it. :'''(
I suspect that the circlip, item 7 on the parts list, came unclipped and jammed in there somehow. Looks like what they are calling the "guide pivot", item 5, is supposed to slide up inside of the column, item 4, and it's not. Not sure just how to take the thing apart. There is a roll pin, item 30, holding the bottom of the shaft but don't know what, if anything is holding the top. Don't quite understand the function of that "safety ring", item 6, either. 
To get into the top, item 34, "closing cap" would need to be pried off. 

Overall, I like the router. I have one like it in the table but have never used that one hand held so I really didn't know what it was like. I like the visibility it gives you. Plenty of power for a 2-1/4 hp... much more than my Hitachi. It is heavier than the Hitachi but seems pretty well balance and I really didn't notice the weight. I also like the speed control in the middle of the top, I always have to look for it on the green machine. Haven't got the bushing adapters in yet, Amazon free shipping takes it's time. Not sure how bushings are gonna play with a vac plate installed on it. Looks like they use the same holes.. may need to make new ones for something.

Anybody have any ideas.... I can't believe it isn't something pretty simple that should be able to be repaired easily by someone who recognizes a screwdriver 3 out 5 times. This type of incident is likely pretty common.

Thanks


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I suspect you're right about the clip... have you tried calling Freud's customer service? It does comewith a 90 day warrantee. 

It's crazy. Last Thursday I ordered the router (phone) and then immediately ordered the bushing adapter online. The adapter arrived on monday. Today I called PTree for a tracking number (which they have) but since they didn't pay the $0.65 or whatever for tracking, all I can tell is that a request for shipping was electronically entered.

I was going to ask you tonight if you'd received yours. Thanks for the exploded drawing. I found the manual online but hadn't gone looking for the parts diagram. I need to find one (electronically) for the rest of the unit too.

It couldn't be something simple like the graduated spindle locked down, could it? Someone posted a similar posting here (without the drop admitted to  ) on the 1700 a while back and Charles M. recommended contacting CS but brought up the spindle stop. I wonder if that's a common customer call-in cause???


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Jim... Guess I'm kinda worked up, should be in bed by now.
I saw the threads under guide bushings. I think what Charles M was talking about was the depth stop.. Forget to loosen it and it stops the plunge where it was previously set plus or minus anything done since; move motor, change bits, whatever. Not my problem, I took the thing off. At first I thought it was the lock but the lock mechanism is on the right side, standing behind the router, and the stopping is definately on the left. If I pull the left spring bellows up away from the base I can see the "guide pivot" bottom against the base. I think it is supposed to continue up into the column. I just hope I don't have to send it in, suddenly starts becoming less of a good deal. Much less if I gotta send the whole shooting match in and not just the plunge. 

I'm a little concerned about the bushing adapter also. The artwork on Amazon didn't show any screw holes. I noticed that and got to checking and somewhere, one of the Amazon reviews maybe, someone said it was threaded. Well, the base plate doesn't have any threads, that leaves the two screw holes which are also used for the vac attachment. Not to sure how this whole thing gonna shake out. 

I did get a couple of hours in with it this afternoon and it is a big step up from my Hitachi. More power, easier controls, more precise depth settings, MUCH better visibility. 

I was hoping to catch Charles M. in here. I thought about PMing him but I think I'll hold off on that. With several of us having the same issue may as well handle it all at once. I did e-mail Ptree about getting a 1/4" collet. Haven't got any 8mm bits yet.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

At least it was the router and not you, thankful for that!! Your router will heal much faster than you!!


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Sorry to hear of the trouble, John, I believe that they will exchange the router for you. When they sell you something, they, (the company) wants you to be happy with your tool. You are the advertisement that can sell many more tools than any thing else. If you are happy, it could mean many more times the cost of taking that one back, and repairing. I was a manager of a body shop, and if we made a person trust in our promise to make you happy, We could count of hearing his story repeated by other customers. I think there goal will be the same. Jerry, hope your doing well also!


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

*Update - Problem solved - large mallet*

 Called the service number Charles M keeps posting. About 3 min on the phone. Guy knew exactly what I was talking about after the first sentence... Good sign it's not an isolated incident.

*Remove motor from base. Ensure lock lever is disengage and depth stop is at the top of it's travel (to be extra safe, rotate turret out of the way). Place base upside down on level surface, lift about an inch or two and bang firmly (make sure the handles don't interfere). This slides one rod past the safety ring inside and it should move freely. I put mine on the corner of the bench with the handles off the bench and smacked it smartly with a rubber mallet. Works fine!*


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Glad to hear it, It's great when someone knows what there talkin about!


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

John,

Sorry to hear of the trouble but I'm glad the service people were able to help.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Charles M said:


> John,
> 
> Sorry to hear of the trouble but I'm glad the service people were able to help.


It was self-inflicted anyway.. Should have had a better grip on the thing. My Hitachi has a spring loaded lock lever, locks as soon as it's released so I wasn't used to this arrangement. Lock lever on the green machine can be a PIA when doing multiple plunges such as shelf pins but has an upside in that the thing doesn't move until you really want it to. Just a matter of adapting it. 
Thanks for the attention.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Ahhh the old hit it with a hammer repair. LOL Always works.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

jschaben said:


> Hi Jim... Guess I'm kinda worked up, should be in bed by now.
> I saw the threads under guide bushings. I think what Charles M was talking about was the depth stop.. Forget to loosen it and it stops the plunge where it was previously set plus or minus anything done since; move motor, change bits, whatever. Not my problem, I took the thing off. At first I thought it was the lock but the lock mechanism is on the right side, standing behind the router, and the stopping is definately on the left. If I pull the left spring bellows up away from the base I can see the "guide pivot" bottom against the base. I think it is supposed to continue up into the column. I just hope I don't have to send it in, suddenly starts becoming less of a good deal. Much less if I gotta send the whole shooting match in and not just the plunge.
> 
> I'm a little concerned about the bushing adapter also. The artwork on Amazon didn't show any screw holes. I noticed that and got to checking and somewhere, one of the Amazon reviews maybe, someone said it was threaded. Well, the base plate doesn't have any threads, that leaves the two screw holes which are also used for the vac attachment. Not to sure how this whole thing gonna shake out.
> ...


John,

I'm wondering about it too, for there are no holes or mounting points that I can see on the guide but I was waiting for the router. I'm not too worried though as I'll just replace the base if that's the case. I'd probably do that to one base anyway, as I want to be able to use guides in all my routers and while I'm at it, size it for the 1-1/2" guides. I *really* the the 1-1/2" OD guide. Used with a 1/2" bit (the most versatile for my 1/2" collet) and it gives me a 1/2" offset. To *make* a template, if I use a 1/4" bit in a 3/4" guide it gives me a template with... a 1/2" offset. I used that technique to inset a 5-sides piece of 4/4 hard maple (holding my pin router arm) into my router table. I like the 1-1/2" size enough I'm going to drill out (or replace) the Freud guide holder once the router arrives. I've heard others talk about its versatility but until I used it a bit I didn't realize just how versatile it is. 

I was a bit nervous routing that inset in my 30x52" table (2 routers and an Incra fence already installed; didn't want to screw it up) but it was EASY!


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Yeah Deb - gotta treat it nice, but first gotta get it's attention.

Jim - the adaptor has a lip around the edge and there is a rabbet in the sub base that the adaptor fits in. No hardware goes THRU the adaptor. The pan heads of the screws hold it in. Thing is that the same holes mount the vacuum collector. So the M5 x 10 mm screws included need to be replaced with longer ones to pass through the threaded inserts and reach far enough up to hold the vac thingy on. Then hold the vac on with wing nuts.
Gotta work today but if HD has all the right hardware will try to post a pic tonite.

I'm starting to think about larger guides also. Couple of times in order to get the offset I want, the bit is to small to clear the area very efficiently. Need to put in a little "margin" and switch to a larger bit to hog out the rest freehand. Will be a little easier now that I have two plungers but would be even nicer with one operation. I like your idea of having the adaptor machined out to accept the larger guides. I did order two adaptors while I was at it. I looked at the veritas plate but at 9" across is a bit larger than I think would like. The 7" milescraft plate pushes the stop fence on my dovetail jig quite aways back. I haven't tried the milescraft plate with 3/4" stock yet but I think that will put it very close to the limit.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

"The old Hit it with a hammer trick!" (c) Maxwell Smart 



CanuckGal said:


> Ahhh the old hit it with a hammer repair. LOL Always works.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

*Adaptor & vac thingy installed*

Looks like things are a little crowded in there but this should work fine. Adaptor plate is gonna have to come off to change bushings but just need to loosen the screws 3 or 4 turns and it will slide out. 
I had to buy 2 - M5-.8x25mm screws and the wingnuts. The 25mm screws are a tad long but leave enough threads on top that the wingnuts don't fall off when you loosen the adaptor plate. The way the thing is set up there shouldn't be any issues with dirt buildup in the bushing with the vac running. 
The last picture is a possible bonus that occurred to me fussing with this thing. That is a 1/2" nylon bushing and it does't quite fit but a slightly smaller bushing on each screw would give a mortise centering capability. Plenty far enough apart for most doors. I don't plan on doing any mortises soon but should work well for dowelling applications also. May need to clamp a couple of pieces of stock on each side to give a bit larger base support and a small stop 3" away from where you want the hole and you would be good-to-go.
The way things look, I am seriously considering having my second plate machined out to take the 1-1/2" bushings. I got real comfortable with the 1" and can see some real advantages to some larger bushings. That and Oak Park is REAL proud of their product. :bad:Lee Valley is pretty reasonable but I couldn't find the 1-1/8, 1-1/4 and 1-3/8 there. Anyone else carry the large ones?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Looking good,, I know this after the fact.but if you put on a MilesCraft base plate you can use your guides you now have and you can snap a new guide in place without changing your line up setting...(the router bit must be on dead center of the guides) 

But now that you have the brass adapter and you want to used the vac.pickup tube you can drill it out,so you can put your fingers inside the plastic part to unscrew the guide,you just need to leave the mounting parts (ears) on the vac pickup tube..I had to do the same on my Freud you just need the tube by the bit, the vac will suck out all the dust the router bits lifts up..

The bigger guides are the best way to go and you can drill it out on your drill press easy..it's about a 30 min. job..I did post a show and tell on that one for Jim..

Lee and OP are the only ones that I know about that sell the bigger guides.. in the states...

Just a note,,,,,with the MilesCraft plate you don't need to cut down your vac.pickup tube..because it's a turn-lock insert..
Just one more note,,you can use the bigger guides in the MilesCraft base plate it just takes a shop made adapter out of plastic..I made one for the one I have..it's tricky but it can be done..
=======





jschaben said:


> Looks like things are a little crowded in there but this should work fine. Adaptor plate is gonna have to come off to change bushings but just need to loosen the screws 3 or 4 turns and it will slide out.
> I had to buy 2 - M5-.8x25mm screws and the wingnuts. The 25mm screws are a tad long but leave enough threads on top that the wingnuts don't fall off when you loosen the adaptor plate. The way the thing is set up there shouldn't be any issues with dirt buildup in the bushing with the vac running.
> The last picture is a possible bonus that occurred to me fussing with this thing. That is a 1/2" nylon bushing and it does't quite fit but a slightly smaller bushing on each screw would give a mortise centering capability. Plenty far enough apart for most doors. I don't plan on doing any mortises soon but should work well for dowelling applications also. May need to clamp a couple of pieces of stock on each side to give a bit larger base support and a small stop 3" away from where you want the hole and you would be good-to-go.
> The way things look, I am seriously considering having my second plate machined out to take the 1-1/2" bushings. I got real comfortable with the 1" and can see some real advantages to some larger bushings. That and Oak Park is REAL proud of their product. :bad:Lee Valley is pretty reasonable but I couldn't find the 1-1/8, 1-1/4 and 1-3/8 there. Anyone else carry the large ones?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi John
> 
> Looking good,, I know this after the fact.but if you put on a MilesCraft base plate you can use your guides you now have and you can snap a new guide in place without changing your line up setting...(the router bit must be on dead center of the guides)
> 
> ...


Not quite sure what you are trying to tell me here Bob. I have the adaptor and vac deal on the router at the same time now and haven't had to cut anything .... yet. The 3rd picture in my last post trys to show that, obviously not very well. I don't think popping the adaptor out is a big deal...Just loosen the screws a few turns. Also will be able to ensure they are tight that way. There is no centering on mine. Base is supposed to be centered. Haven't checked that out yet but its on the list. Adaptor fits SNUGLY into the relief on the base plate. Any centering adjustment will have to come from the sub-base to base screws. 
I have got an extra milescraft base in a drawer somewhere. Was planning on using it if I ever decide to do through dovetails and set up another router to do that. I have the dovetail bit set up in the little craftsman router, semi-permanently, with a milescraft base to do half-blinds. 
I can deal with the Lee Valley prices for the large bushings, just that they don't seem to carry the three I mentioned. Those 3 from Oak Park are almost as much as two sets from Lee Valley. :wacko: That, and I think the Lee Valley are short barrel. 
I know it wouldn't be a big deal to rework the adaptor but I haven't got either a drill press or a lathe. Most shops around here likely charge a 1 hour minimum. I may trundle down to the local high school, they used to have a metal shop there..... hmmmm.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

John,

BJ is da man! Just take a look at http://www.routerforums.com/guide-bushings-templates/17288-jim.html and you'll see how easy he makes the machining process. All it takes are 3 forestner bits (1-3/16", 1-1/2" & 1-3/4") and some scrap wood... oh, and a friend with a DP. ..or use the "shop time savings" to pick one up off of Craigslist! See how easily I justify buying tools to myself! 

As BJ would say "Easy-peasy". Did I quote ya rightthere, BJ?

P.S. BJ.. I'm learning your thread-finding tricks!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

" Did I quote ya rightthere, BJ? "

Yep. most things are as long you don't think about them to much..  the KISS way... 

=========



BigJimAK said:


> John,
> 
> BJ is da man! Just take a look at http://www.routerforums.com/guide-bushings-templates/17288-jim.html and you'll see how easy he makes the machining process. All it takes are 3 forestner bits (1-3/16", 1-1/2" & 1-3/4") and some scrap wood... oh, and a friend with a DP. ..or use the "shop time savings" to pick one up off of Craigslist! See how easily I justify buying tools to myself!
> 
> ...


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## Mr. Randy (Oct 22, 2009)

jschaben said:


> Hi Jim... Guess I'm kinda worked up, should be in bed by now.
> I saw the threads under guide bushings. I think what Charles M was talking about was the depth stop.. Forget to loosen it and it stops the plunge where it was previously set plus or minus anything done since; move motor, change bits, whatever. Not my problem, I took the thing off. At first I thought it was the lock but the lock mechanism is on the right side, standing behind the router, and the stopping is definately on the left. If I pull the left spring bellows up away from the base I can see the "guide pivot" bottom against the base. I think it is supposed to continue up into the column. I just hope I don't have to send it in, suddenly starts becoming less of a good deal. Much less if I gotta send the whole shooting match in and not just the plunge.
> 
> I'm a little concerned about the bushing adapter also. The artwork on Amazon didn't show any screw holes. I noticed that and got to checking and somewhere, one of the Amazon reviews maybe, someone said it was threaded. Well, the base plate doesn't have any threads, that leaves the two screw holes which are also used for the vac attachment. Not to sure how this whole thing gonna shake out.
> ...


Just read your posting about the plunge base problem. I am having the same issue, it only plunges 1/2". Did you get yours working? What did you end up doing? Thanks


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Mr. Randy said:


> Just read your posting about the plunge base problem. I am having the same issue, it only plunges 1/2". Did you get yours working? What did you end up doing? Thanks


Hi Mr. Randy
I posted it earlier in this thread but it getting kinda long so I just copied it:

*Remove motor from base. Ensure lock lever is disengage and depth stop is at the top of it's travel (to be extra safe, rotate turret out of the way). Place base upside down on level surface, lift about an inch or two and bang firmly (make sure the handles don't interfere). This slides one rod past the safety ring inside and it should move freely. I put mine on the corner of the bench with the handles off the bench and smacked it smartly with a rubber mallet. Works fine! *


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## Mr. Randy (Oct 22, 2009)

jschaben said:


> Called the service number Charles M keeps posting. About 3 min on the phone. Guy knew exactly what I was talking about after the first sentence... Good sign it's not an isolated incident.
> 
> *Remove motor from base. Ensure lock lever is disengage and depth stop is at the top of it's travel (to be extra safe, rotate turret out of the way). Place base upside down on level surface, lift about an inch or two and bang firmly (make sure the handles don't interfere). This slides one rod past the safety ring inside and it should move freely. I put mine on the corner of the bench with the handles off the bench and smacked it smartly with a rubber mallet. Works fine!*


John, Thank you, thank you, thank you! I did the rubber mallet thing to my stuck Freud 1700 plunge base and it now is working fine. I wil now turn my attention to the problem of finding or making a router table insert. I am going to a big woodworking show in Portland, OR, this weekend and plan to look for a solution. Mr. Randy


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Mr. Randy said:


> John, Thank you, thank you, thank you! I did the rubber mallet thing to my stuck Freud 1700 plunge base and it now is working fine. I wil now turn my attention to the problem of finding or making a router table insert. I am going to a big woodworking show in Portland, OR, this weekend and plan to look for a solution. Mr. Randy


Glad to hear you got the plunge issue resolved.
I ended up drilling my own plate for the table. Couldn't find a predrilled one. There are a couple of templates posted here.
Just a couple of recommendations: First, mount the fixed base. The thing really shines as a table router with the above table bit changes and depth settings. Second, you won't have to drill and tap the plunge base for mounting. I was looking at the two bases tonite. The fixed base has 3 holes drilled and tapped 1/4-20 for table mounting but the plunge base doesn't.
Good Luck


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## Schechner (Oct 13, 2009)

I got my new Freud last week and finally mounted it in my TS extension. I constructed a fence to go on the back of my sacrificial TS fence. Can't wait to try it out!


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I'm still waiting for my Freud. Both were ordered 2 weeks ago and the template guide adapter arrived a week ago this past Monday. The router was to be shipped USPS priority mail ($33.59 in freight). Thursday will be 2 weeks since Peach Tree says they shipped it; unfortunately the USPS tracking page shows the vendor ordered the shipment but it was never scanned as shipped. It'll be another week before USPS will even *consider* starting paperwork on it. At that time I'm pretty sure they'll claim it was never shipped. Meanwhile they're offering to sell me another and let me return the first one when it arrives. 

So, let's see.. They're offering to sell me a new router.. Then I pay a second ~$35 to ship it to me and another ~$35 to ship back the old one. Add that to the price of the router and this refurbished unit won't have worked out as a great deal. Grrrrr...


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> I'm still waiting for my Freud. Both were ordered 2 weeks ago and the template guide adapter arrived a week ago this past Monday. The router was to be shipped USPS priority mail ($33.59 in freight). Thursday will be 2 weeks since Peach Tree says they shipped it; unfortunately the USPS tracking page shows the vendor ordered the shipment but it was never scanned as shipped. It'll be another week before USPS will even *consider* starting paperwork on it. At that time I'm pretty sure they'll claim it was never shipped. Meanwhile they're offering to sell me another and let me return the first one when it arrives.
> 
> So, let's see.. They're offering to sell me a new router.. Then I pay a second ~$35 to ship it to me and another ~$35 to ship back the old one. Add that to the price of the router and this refurbished unit won't have worked out as a great deal. Grrrrr...


Dunno what to tell you Jim - Anchorage is a long ways from Atlanta but two weeks is gettin a little excessive. Course, sometimes HF stuff takes about that long to get to me with their "Smart Post" System. Last order from Harbor Freight, Fedex carried it around the country for 10 days then dropped it in a mailbox in Kansas City.. Go figure.
I'm curous whether yours shows up with a 1/4" collett. Mine had the 8mm instead. Called Peachtree and they said they will call Freud but didn't ask for the 8mm back. May score the 8mm collett for nuthin. Lack of a 1/4 collett hasn't slowed me up any, just used the one out of the table. 
Hope it shows up soon for you. I'm kinda looking forward to your opinion.


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## wheelbuilder (Dec 18, 2008)

I've got the same router, and have had to do this too. Does anyone know why it happens ?

Aaron


jschaben said:


> Called the service number Charles M keeps posting. About 3 min on the phone. Guy knew exactly what I was talking about after the first sentence... Good sign it's not an isolated incident.
> 
> *Remove motor from base. Ensure lock lever is disengage and depth stop is at the top of it's travel (to be extra safe, rotate turret out of the way). Place base upside down on level surface, lift about an inch or two and bang firmly (make sure the handles don't interfere). This slides one rod past the safety ring inside and it should move freely. I put mine on the corner of the bench with the handles off the bench and smacked it smartly with a rubber mallet. Works fine!*


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

wheelbuilder said:


> I've got the same router, and have had to do this too. Does anyone know why it happens ?
> 
> Aaron


Hi Aaron, welcome to the forum.
Don't know exactly why, happens much more than I like. Have learned to let it come up easy and it seems fine. I'm thinking it's really a design flaw. Seems like making the plunge rod a couple of mm longer would allow it to handle the occasional uncontrolled release. One of the things I like about my Hitachi is that the plunge is locked until you release the lever. Of course that's a PIA also for doing a bunch of repetetive plunges such as shelf pin holes. I use the Freud for that.


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