# Table top joining?



## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

I have a stack of pecan wood that I'm wanting to turn into a table top for SWMBO. I read two routing/shaping books and need to get the input of the forum members. Which do you recommend? A tongue and groove or a glue joint? I have a router table and would be willing to purchase the bits you recommend. Many thanks.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

John:
I've glued up a number of panels for table tops. I used to use biscuits but found the extra work wasn't necessary and became a PITA.
The last few panels I've glued up were simply glue joints.

Since I have a jointer, I use the following method to get my glue joints to virtually disappear:

Lay out my boards then mark each adjoining face with an "I" or and "O". This denotes whether the face will be "I"nside (against) to the fence or "O"utside (away from). This ensures that my joint will be flush even if my fence is not set exactly at 90*. Lots of clamps on top and underneath and the joint is basically invisible. I made an end table for one of my daughters and after stain and finish, she couldn't tell where the joints were.

You can do the same with a table mounted router, straight bit and an adjustable fence. If you shim out the outfeed fence on your router table (presuming you have one) you can easily join(t) edges. I made a fence some time ago when my router was mounted on the extension of my table saw. The outfeed fence was adjustable in and out and I used a small piece of formica (laminate) to shim out the outfeed side of the fence. Found the thickness of the laminate was just enough to avoid taking too much off the edge at one time.

Vince


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Definitely just use a simple butt joint. Vince gives a good description of the procedure. 

One thing, best to use edge grain/quatersawn boards but if you must use flat sawn, you should plan for cupping. Look at the end grain of each board and determine which way it will cup. Then plan so you have alternating up and down cups. This will minimize the effect. The image below exaggerates the effect but gives you the basic idea.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Knothead47 said:


> I have a stack of pecan wood that I'm wanting to turn into a table top for SWMBO. I read two routing/shaping books and need to get the input of the forum members. Which do you recommend? A tongue and groove or a glue joint? I have a router table and would be willing to purchase the bits you recommend. Many thanks.


spline...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

+2 for Vince's pov, but if you're worried, a simple spline along each board won't take much extra work. This sounds like a great opportunity to try the large panel surfacing technique! 




http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surfa...ower-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1433431794&sr=1-7


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> +2 for Vince's pov, but if you're worried, a simple spline along each board won't take much extra work. This sounds like a great opportunity to try the large panel surfacing technique!
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqhQutXvyDM
> http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surfa...ower-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1433431794&sr=1-7


That's the method I used to flatten my workbench. Time consuming but it works.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

get flatter from the get go...
pro/con/alternate iscussions

http://www.routerforums.com/router-bits-types-usage/52009-mlcs-7733-edge-banding-strong-enough.html
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/50906-joints-cabinet-top.html
http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/66937-question-about-table-top.html


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"That's the method I used to flatten my workbench. Time consuming but it works."
-Charles


Charles; where'd you find a large surfacing bit up here? 
I've been looking but no joy...I may have to bite the bullet and buy that Magnate one (US)...but _only_ if they'll ship USPS


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Many thanks to all. I do have a planer that will flatten the boards and a TS to cut to width. Vince, you answered one question that came up after I posted- I have a Kreg router table and the fence is one piece so I'll have to shim the one side. I have a lot of wood so I'll pick out a few pieces and play with them to see what would be best to do.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> "That's the method I used to flatten my workbench. Time consuming but it works."
> -Charles
> 
> 
> ...


1 1/2" straight bit from LV. I now have an Onsrud that is 1 5/8 but that's the biggest I know of Dan.


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> +2 for Vince's pov, but if you're worried, a simple spline along each board won't take much extra work. This sounds like a great opportunity to try the large panel surfacing technique!
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqhQutXvyDM
> http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surfa...ower-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1433431794&sr=1-7


And what about of eye and hearing protección in that video?? :surprise: :nono:


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"And what about of eye and hearing protección in that video??"

I'm constantly amazed at these YouTube videos, Joseph. The producers are so used to working without protection that it doesn't even occur to them that they're doing it in front of witnesses...
I can sort of understand the earmuff thing while you're trying to narrate your production, but safety glasses? And my all time fav; no TS blade guards.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

To each his own, I say.

Herb


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> "And what about of eye and hearing protección in that video??"
> 
> I'm constantly amazed at these YouTube videos, Joseph. The producers are so used to working without protection that it doesn't even occur to them that they're doing it in front of witnesses...
> I can sort of understand the earmuff thing while you're trying to narrate your production, but safety glasses? And my all time fav; no TS blade guards.


And I forgot about the lung protection with that saw dust production.



Herb Stoops said:


> To each his own, I say.
> 
> Herb


You are rigth but it is not right. SAFETY FIRST!


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

RÖENTGEEP said:


> And I forgot about the lung protection with that saw dust production.
> 
> 
> 
> You are rigth but it is not right. SAFETY FIRST!


I've seen far too many videos that scare the bejeezus out of me. Like guys ripping narrow strips on table saws by hand - I can just picture someone's finger coming off in the middle of a video.

When I make adjustments to my table saw or router I check the cord 3 times to make sure it's unplugged.

I've always been overly cautious around power tools but some videos people post are just riduculous.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

OK!...but _three_ times? We old farts have an excuse, Vince!


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> OK!...but _three_ times? *We old farts* have an excuse, Vince!


Dan: at 63 I'll take that as a compliment.

Only reason I check it 3 times is 'cause I can't remember the first two.>


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The dumbest video I've seen yet was one posted here of a YouTube one of a guy who was trying to show what causes kickback on a saw. In the process of showing what not to do he almost cut his fingers off. He admitted after that it had been a really stupid idea.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Charles:
Not sure if you're referring to Tom Hintz of newwoodworker.com, but if it is you've got to watch some of his "I get email" videos on his website - I find them absolutely hilarious. His sense of humor is drier than a popcorn fart


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

John...I don't believe you will be able to joincut with the one piece fence...the fence needs to be split so that the entire out feed fence is offset (proud) of the infeed fence while staying parallel...


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> The dumbest video I've seen yet was one posted here of a YouTube one of a guy who was trying to show what causes kickback on a saw. In the process of showing what not to do he almost cut his fingers off. He admitted after that it had been a really stupid idea.


Charles I remember that dumbest video. :surprise:


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Nickp said:


> John...I don't believe you will be able to joincut with the one piece fence...the fence needs to be split so that the entire out feed fence is offset (proud) of the infeed fence while staying parallel...


Nick: thanks for clarifying that - I wasn't aware that fence was a one piece.

John:

You can easily make an adjustable fence if you don't already have one. I made this fence a few years ago out of some material I had lying around - cost me the price a 4 threaded knobs. It was a bit of a crude design but worked well. Both fences (infeed/outfeed were adjustable to accommodate different size bits.

I had the option of clamping it to my table saw fence (when I had a router on the TS extension) or clamping it to a router table. The last pic shows a piece of laminate that bumps out the outfeed fence.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I like the idea of the spline. Flatten in the planer, alternate grain if necessary, then cut the grooves with the face side down which will keep them aligned. Cut the spline piece the thickness of the groove and the width to the total depth of the two grooves. The face down position will really help minimize any sanding or planing to produce a perfectly flat top. I use a Rockler Thin Rip Tablesaw Jig to cut the perfect spline. 

I tend to get into some detail because I don't assume every person posting knows what all the terminology means. (I'm still learning all the time from the seasoned folks on this site.) For example, a spline is a thin strip usually of hardwood that fits into a groove cut on each side of a joint and is glued in place, then clamped tight together. The glue then has a lot of surface area on which to bond. Wood will break before the glue joints will and the more surface area, the stronger the joint will be.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This is my fence, tall, making raised panels a doddle using a safe vertical raising bit plus all other operations. To make a zero clearance opening I clamp a sheet of MDF which can be 1/4" or less thin and bring the fence forward leaving a true zero clearance opening, and best of all it's so simple to make. The shots of the original "high tech." fence which has resided under the mill/drill collecting dust for many years proved pretty useless.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

harrysin said:


> This is my fence, tall, making raised panels a doddle using a safe vertical raising bit plus all other operations. To make a zero clearance opening I clamp a sheet of MDF which can be 1/4" or less thin and bring the fence forward leaving a true zero clearance opening, and best of all it's so simple to make. The shots of the original "high tech." fence which has resided under the mill/drill collecting dust for many years proved pretty useless.


Hey Harry, that table looks pretty familiar. I like that tall fence design and will remember it once I get to the time I need to make raised panels. I think one day, probably once I retire, I'll tackle my kitchen cabinets and will probably want some raised panels.

On that Zero Clearance fence, how did you get that bit in so cleanly?
Did you just turn it on and push the MDF back through the bit?

Bryan


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Bryan - I'll answer while Harry's having a nap - pull the fence into the bit from the back. I've seen it done that way at a woodworking show by the guy that demos Kreg products. Be careful when trying to do that with a bit with a bearing - the bearing doesn't cut too well


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

I can use rods to offset the outfeed fence. No problem there. Just need to get the time to start. This has been a lousy week to get anything done. Might have to go back to work to have time. :crying:


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