# 4 table saw safety questions



## SE18 (Apr 6, 2009)

I know it's probably better to just have 1 question rather than 4 or 5 b/c they won't all get answered or might be too much for folks to read, but I'll see how this works.

I've got an older Delta Shopmaster (about 2002) that comes with a blade insert that leaves a gap of about 3/4 inches around the blade. I've checked online and can't find any zero-clearance ones (well near zero). I feel uncomfortable cutting wood with that much clearance around the blade and already had wood sucked into the hole and explode and other nasty surprises.

The newer Shopmaster ones I saw have oval ends but mine is rectangular in shape.

I made 3 zero clearance myself but they rise slightly above the table b/c of the design of the insert. This in itself poses safety problems.


Second issue. It would be nice if the plate includes a splitter. The splitter that comes attached to the plastic guard is a couple inches too far back to be really safe. Also, when you remove the guard to do raised panels and stuff, the splitter gets removed as well.


Third issue. If I build a sled, do I still need a splitter or does the sled itself act as one? I've seen about 20 sleds people made and only 1 had a splitter. IOW, are they safe without splitters?

Fourth issue. This involves the plastic blade guard. I read a story from a woodworker who was badly injured b/c he removed it and cut a large sheet of plywood. The plywood somehow got kicked back at him, injuring him badly in the groin. I guess the lesson I take from this is to leave the guard on unless you can't (like when doing raised panels)

Fifth issue (I couldn't change topic title from 4 to 5):

I've had the plastic guard down while cutting and have had wood fly back thru the narrow guard and lodge into my finger. It hurt but healed. I started wearing leather gloves but found the danger there is that it makes your fingers more clumsy.

Thanks!

David Vergun


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi David,

Splitters can be made in your own shop however, Rocklers, Woodcraft and such sell 'em too. Plain down your next ZC insert.

If you use a sled, a splitter is NOT required.

You may want to contact Delta about possibly getting a new guard for your TS.


----------



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

David,
The answers are in blue...


SE18 said:


> I know it's probably better to just have 1 question rather than 4 or 5 b/c they won't all get answered or might be too much for folks to read, but I'll see how this works.
> 
> I've got an older Delta Shopmaster (about 2002) that comes with a blade insert that leaves a gap of about 3/4 inches around the blade. I've checked online and can't find any zero-clearance ones (well near zero). I feel uncomfortable cutting wood with that much clearance around the blade and already had wood sucked into the hole and explode and other nasty surprises.
> 
> ...


and that's 5 questions, not 4... ;-)


----------



## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

David are there no anti kickback pawls on your guard? These should prevent wood from coming back at you.


----------



## SE18 (Apr 6, 2009)

Hi, yes the guard has kickback pawls, but they are of no use when running raised panels thru as the guard (which also contains the splitter, has to be removed).

I neglected to take a photo of the insert so this morning I drew it up in Photoshop. As you can see, there's a huge gap, designed I'm sure to allow the blade to be tilted. In making an insert there are 4 problems. 1. Notice that there's no ledge on the other side of the blade to even support an insert!. 2. Notice that the only screws are to the far side, therefore, there are no places for screws on the other side of the blade! 3. The 2 screws that are supplied are lowered into the insert as the metal bends downward to the screws (sort of like a countersink), making it harder to make an insert. The screwheads are round so therefore the countersink 4. Also, the insert would HAVE to be made of metal b/c just below the insert is a lip that is nearly flush with the top of the saw table, enabling only thin steel to be used. As far as I can tell, there are NO aftermarket inserts made for this table saw and I believe Delta doesn't even make them anymore. The aftermarket insert would need the screws at the far end only, making it extremely unstable, as wood running thru could push an insert down on the far side as there's no ledge.


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi David,

If I'm looking at your drawing correctly, are you sure that this is not for a dado blade set?

Something else you might think about adding as additional safety precaution to your TS. Look into "Board buddies". These simply attach to your fence and will help prevent kick-back.


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hamlin said:


> Hi David,
> 
> If I'm looking at your drawing correctly, are you sure that this is not for a dado blade set?
> 
> Something else you might think about adding as additional safety precaution to your TS. Look into "Board buddies". These simply attach to your fence and will help prevent kick-back.



Ken,

My Rigid TS came with an insert that has about the same opening and without a ZCI. I had to order a ZCI after I dang near had a mis-hap. I think the orginal insert is to accomodate blade tilt up to 45*. That may be what we see in the drawing and not necessarily a dado slot. Just my opinion of course.


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Bob,

Perhaps this is why I think designers should atleast try their hand in the field first before making their design. 

BTW, I do have an old craftsmen TS that has a similar plate design. However, the dado plate is almost identical to the drawing. I have no experience with Delta nor Rigid, just the older craftsmen and my Grizzly.


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hamlin said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> Perhaps this is why I think designers should atleast try their hand in the field first before making their design.


I'm sure there is a pun in there somewhere :laugh::laugh::laugh:


----------



## SE18 (Apr 6, 2009)

Bob said:


> Ken,
> 
> My Rigid TS came with an insert that has about the same opening and without a ZCI. I had to order a ZCI after I dang near had a mis-hap. I think the orginal insert is to accomodate blade tilt up to 45*. That may be what we see in the drawing and not necessarily a dado slot. Just my opinion of course.


IMO not a dado insert, as it came with the TC and allows the blade to tilt 45 deg. 

I've yet to see a ZCI that is square like mine with just 2 screws off to the side. I'd be curious where I can find one.

I did build one out of rain gutter steel, but it tends to flap down at the side where there is no lip and no screw holes. The design IMO is very dangerous. BTW, I cut the saw channel by slowly raising a metal cutting wheel in the TS. Made a lot of sparks. I'll try to make a video of what it looks like tonight.

I may try to remedy the situation by turning the TS upside down and machining some holes on the underside where some very long bolt could go up and attach to a ZCI on that side. That's the only solution I can think of.


----------



## SE18 (Apr 6, 2009)

Here's a short video showing the ZCI I made from steel and how it can be pushed down and flap. The power cord to the TS is disconnected, so don't freak b/c my fingers are in the blade area :0-)

The video also shows the rest of my garage workshop which I just finished setting up, with a wheeled workbench that can be pushed out into the driveway to do sawing.

YouTube - garage workshop


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

David,

It may be time to bite the bullet and look at a new saw. I don't see how you are going to be able to adjust for that and feel comfortable with it. An accident waiting to happen in my opinion.

You have a really nice well equiped shop in that video, where did you find that anvil? Looks to be a perfect size :0

Thanks for taking the time to make the YouTube and sharing it with us. I wish more folks could/would do that, I love looking at other shops for ideas.


----------



## SE18 (Apr 6, 2009)

Thanks, Bob, I think I got it 3 years ago from Harbor Freight. Don't know if they still stock it as they continually change up their inventory based on their China traders.

I have 2 other anvils made from real railroad rails.

The only things I really want in the shop are metal lathe and mill. I just can't afford them right now. Regarding the press, there's only 4 inches clearance, so I have some steel to rebuild it. It is fun to use for some reason.


----------



## Schechner (Oct 13, 2009)

SE18 said:


> Thanks, Bob, I think I got it 3 years ago from Harbor Freight. Don't know if they still stock it as they continually change up their inventory based on their China traders.


I saw an anvil at HF in Gaithersburg, Maryland a couple weeks ago.


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

David 
To answer your qestion on zero tolerance throat plates please go here to few a video how to make one.

Essential Jigs Online Extras - Fine Woodworking Article

You can also buy The Best of Fine Woodworking Jigs - 57 for $10.00. In it they have the information you are seeking. May be the best $10 you have spent in a while. I am confident after watching the video you will have no problem making one for yourself. I have bought more set screws and have made numerous throat plates to mach the different types of saw blades I use in my tablesaw. In fact I have a thin kerf I use for ripping, a thick kerf Royce blade for ripping, general Dewalt blade and my combination blade. I have even made themfor various dado sizes I use often like 1/4" door bottoms and 3/4" cabinet shelfs or cabinet construction.


----------



## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

David,
There was a thread posted within the last month. Several people were trying to solve the same problem. I think John from KS was one of them. But check the archives, Maybe you can see how they fixed it.


----------

