# Simple way to make small mouldings.



## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Here is the method I use to make small mouldings for picture frames, glazing beads etc.
Most of us will not have and cannot justify the expense of a de-luxe router table and many holding down devices, in the absence of these I have used the method here for many years to make my own mouldings, just channel a strip of timber to the dimensions of your pre-moulded timber, set- up your cutter, clamp on the grooved jig and simply push lengths of timber through the preformed tunnel, make sure your timber is a fairly tight fit and you will have no ripples and no danger of getting fingers in the way. 
Derek.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

derek

That's one way but why not just use wider timber and put the edge on both sides of the timber and then just rip off the molding to the right size....works great for bead molding... etc. after all you need to cut/rip the timber at some time..


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derek willis said:


> Here is the method I use to make small mouldings for picture frames, glazing beads etc.
> Most of us will not have and cannot justify the expense of a de-luxe router table and many holding down devices, in the absence of these I have used the method here for many years to make my own mouldings, just channel a strip of timber to the dimensions of your pre-moulded timber, set- up your cutter, clamp on the grooved jig and simply push lengths of timber through the preformed tunnel, make sure your timber is a fairly tight fit and you will have no ripples and no danger of getting fingers in the way.
> Derek.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Yes, I have done it that way.
I originally used the tunnel idea for the making of lengths of angle in hardwood to cover the corners of Acrylic Display Boxes.
Derek.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

What a simple, safe and accurate method Derek, one that I shall certainly use in the future.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Derek,
great idea..do you ever have a problem with chip build up in the channel?


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Harry,
I noted in an earlier post, that you used to take Routing Magazine, that was one of my favourites and I took it from it's concept when Trend first brought it out, before Nexus took over.
I won my Bosch 900 router from them with my Mortise Jig, I also got their Six Of The Best router cutters, getting me six Trend cutters worth nearly £300:00, it seems at the time, that people were reticent about entering into the spirit of things. 
Derek.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Greg,
No, because, if you look at the jig, you will see there is a small cut-out for chip extraction.
Derek.


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## TreasureChest (Feb 7, 2009)

Derek, very useful jig. i will try to remember how you did it. 
just to be clear is that about a 1/2" square groove/channel? how much larger is the slot for the bit?
thank you.
tc


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Derek, I stopped buying both U.K. routing magazines well before they ceased publication because they rarely had true routing articles/projects. It was rare to see mention of template guides and plunge routing, the few articles that were routed were done on the table and required very little skill. Tom and later myself reworked some of these projects into true routing projects. A case in point was a replica French balloon clock in the April/May 2000 copy of ROUTING, the article glued several pieces of MDF, routed on the table from a male template, needing lots of sanding before the laborious task of veneering. I redesigned it to be routed from solid wood and have made a number of them in different sizes.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Harry,
Couldn't agree more, that's why it died, after a very short life.
Derek.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

John,
The channel is dependent on what you are cutting, make the channel to be a tight fit for the timber to avoid chatter, th aperture for the bit and extraction need only be fractionally bigger than the bit, but it it won't make a lot of difference any way.
Derek.


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## overthehill (Dec 15, 2008)

I like your method for small moulding but I didn't understand your reply to how to insure sawdust escape
overthehill


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

John,
I have a split fence, with dust extraction from the rear of the fence, so therefore the back of the jig has a cut-out where the cutter shows and is also used to extract the dust, the cut out lines up with the gap in the fence, shown here.
Derek.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

that is a neat idea. 

I have so many cut offs that are small and/or thin to begin with and do not leave me the opportunity to use a big piece and then cut them down after routing, this is perfect for those times.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Derek, I stopped buying both U.K. routing magazines well before they ceased publication because they rarely had true routing articles/projects. It was rare to see mention of template guides and plunge routing, the few articles that were routed were done on the table and required very little skill. Tom and later myself reworked some of these projects into true routing projects. A case in point was a replica French balloon clock in the April/May 2000 copy of ROUTING, the article glued several pieces of MDF, routed on the table from a male template, needing lots of sanding before the laborious task of veneering. I redesigned it to be routed from solid wood and have made a number of them in different sizes.


Nice clocks! I wouldn't mind having a go at one similar. I liked the faces. Who did you use for the motions?

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nick

I must be a bit slow,,I just don't get it,, why make a simple easy job into a hard job..

Most cut off/rip offs are wide enough to just push by the bit without making a jig to do the job..if they are real short cut offs they should be used for other jobs..you still need to clamp the jig/fixture to the router top and most router tables are 28" wide or more the norm,so you would need a long push stick to get it by the bit..without jamming,lots of luck ,that little clean out hole is just right to get hung up on...when the stock is that small...I think I will stick to the tried and true way of doing that simple job. (making molding) 


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nickao65 said:


> that is a neat idea.
> 
> I have so many cut offs that are small and/or thin to begin with and do not leave me the opportunity to use a big piece and then cut them down after routing, this is perfect for those times.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I have hundreds or thousands of 1/4" x 1/2" or 1/2" x 3/4" strips from 12" to 48" long and similar sizes. No way are you going to push those by a router bit! 

Even using my jigs some of these are just to much of a pain to push through and I hold my breath the whole way. This way it seems a whole lot safer on small pieces like that.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nick

I think the cut offs you have on hand are called paint sticks  once you cut them down to about 12" long..or so..most cut offs are not cut true the norm..that's why they call them cut offs.. 

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nickao65 said:


> I have hundreds or thousands of 1/4" x 1/2" or 1/2" x 3/4" strips from 12" to 48" long and similar sizes. No way are you going to push those by a router bit!
> 
> Even using my jigs some of these are just to much of a pain to push through and I hold my breath the whole way. This way it seems a whole lot safer on small pieces like that.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Even short pieces can be put through this jig, just push one in as far as you can and then push another, simple, no matter how short they are they will come out moulded at the other end.
Derek.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I think I get it now,, just a new way to make a router gun for your router table...push one in then use one more to shoot the other one out the other end.. I Like It..  now I just need to hang a target on the wall by the router table ...  



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derek willis said:


> Even short pieces can be put through this jig, just push one in as far as you can and then push another, simple, no matter how short they are they will come out moulded at the other end.
> Derek.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Hey I can aim them at my son while he is moving as slow as he can while cleaning up the shop!

Bob you asked about a jig for my tables with all the holes in it, but I buy those tops already made like that. I am way to lazy to sit there and cut all those holes so accurately. 

The CNC machine Festool uses makes them so perfectly aligned you can use the holes for alignment of fences and such at even 45 degree angles. They are accurate as far as I can tell to less than I can measure. They are expensive though, about 100.00 for one top.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Where did the shooting come in ? The only target is to make mouldings.
Derek.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I think Bob means if you push in the molding and then let go more than likely it will fly back at you and across the room if you let it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Let me see if I got this right 

How to make a router GUN/RIFLE for the router table..

1st. put in a slot in a 1 1/2" wide stock ,clamp it to the router table top on both side/ends.
Then rip some stock so it will just fit into the slot.
Then push the 1st short stick in the slot (we will call this the bullet ) 
Then take a 2nd stick and push the bullet pass the bit (we will call this the load) the bullet now has saw dust around it,
Then push the load by the bit if you are lucky and take your hands off it to get one more piece to push the load down the rifle barrel slot,when the load gets to the end the hair trigger may snap ,and it's gone and pushing the bullet right out the ass end of the jig right into the wall or what every...  take care and make your rifle out of good hvy.stock, it may blow up when the hair trigger is pulled.....take care they do like to BACK FIRE and shoot the ram rod out the back end along with the load charge.

I think I will pass on making a gun for my table.. 

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derek willis said:


> Where did the shooting come in ? The only target is to make mouldings.
> Derek.


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Derek
Like the idea, the bit is well hidden.
Is there something in the channel that prevents kickback?
, but I do understand (partially) what bj is saying. (like kickback on a saw)
BJ
Can you show us your method. I think having multiple methods is always a good thing.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

It's very simple .just use a wider board ,put the edge on both sides of the board then just rip the molding off on the table saw..just one less step. 
and it's very safe.. no rifle jigs needed 


But I will say I use a jig on the table saw to cut the molding off the wide board so they are all the same size without jamming/locking the molding into the fence and blade..

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Just in case you say what's the jig for the table saw look like,here's a shot of it,, it's very simple jig to use,lock it in place on the left side of the blade,place the board on the table top move the stock and the fence over to the stop,then rip off the edge / molding then do the same thing over and over until you get what you need.. , I use it a lot for making banding strips...1/8" thick the norm.

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Bogydave said:


> Derek
> Like the idea, the bit is well hidden.
> Is there something in the channel that prevents kickback?
> , but I do understand (partially) what bj is saying. (like kickback on a saw)
> ...


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

I have not experienced any kick back, also I collect the moulding as it comes out of the tunnel so no shooting will occur, in any case, when the last of the timber is in the tunnel you must pull from the outfeed end to finish the moulding and use a pushstick as well, just simple good routing principles appply.
derek.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Normally I use wider material for molding projects, mostly because my shop is space deficient. I already have tools and lumber stored on the floor and walls in the washer/dryer/dry store area of the basement. .

If I had twice the shop space I'd fill it with more tools. If my primary work was in 2 or 3 woods I'd consider storing big-time but I use so many different species adding their remnants would take too much space.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Yeah thats probably why my formal living room and dining room as well as my shed and full basement are all packed with lumber!


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

derek willis said:


> I have not experienced any kick back, also I collect the moulding as it comes out of the tunnel so no shooting will occur, in any case, when the last of the timber is in the tunnel you must pull from the outfeed end to finish the moulding and use a pushstick as well, just simple good routing principles appply.
> derek.


Hi Derek:

You have to take Bob with more than a grain of salt. If he didn't create it or didn't think of it, it's only worth his derision. 

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi allthunbs

I must disagree with you,, I don't ridicule or make mockery of all jigs that I don't think of ... , but I just call them the way I see them...sorry...

I don't recommend any jig that I think that would harm the user... ..and this one looks that way to me.. I'm sorry if it puts a chip on your shoulder..


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allthunbs said:


> Hi Derek:
> 
> You have to take Bob with more than a grain of salt. If he didn't create it or didn't think of it, it's only worth his derision.
> 
> Allthunbs


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

BJ
Makes sense; but Aunt Betty sure makes hard & flat banana bread


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave


hahahahahahahahahaha Aunt Betty banana bread recipe was for a cutting board that hung on the kitchen wall ...  and it's real goooooood...

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/2508-just-one-more-cutting-board.html

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Bogydave said:


> BJ
> Makes sense; but Aunt Betty sure makes hard & flat banana bread


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi allthunbs
> 
> I must disagree with you,, I don't ridicule or make mockery of all jigs that I don't think of ... , but I just call them the way I see them...sorry...
> 
> I don't recommend any jig that I think that would harm the user... ..and this one looks that way to me.. I'm sorry if it puts a chip on your shoulder..


You don't get it do you. The guy actually knows what he's talking about. He doesn't just make jigs, he uses them too. 

Allthunbs


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

WOW, this kinda went south didn't it. 

Just a question though. What happens when the bit or rather the chips take a "bite" into the workpiece? Are you still going to be holding it?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

OK allthunbs

TAKE YOUR BEST SHOT,,, !!!!,,, I'M ALMOST SURE THIS THREAD WILL BE CLOSED IN NO TIME.. BECAUSE OF THE CHIP ON YOUR SHOULDER.

BUT MAYBE YOU SHOULD OPEN MY GALLERY AND TAKE A LOOK around .

Have a good one

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allthunbs said:


> You don't get it do you. The guy actually knows what he's talking about. He doesn't just make jigs, he uses them too.
> 
> Allthunbs


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> WOW, this kinda went south didn't it.
> 
> Just a question though. What happens when the bit or rather the chips take a "bite" into the workpiece? Are you still going to be holding it?


Hi Ken:

I think Derek has grooved his support stick just enough to allow the blank to be pushed through without much slack. In the same way that you'll hold a board against a fence and move it past the bit, the support stick provides the support that your fingers can't. It's just another way of making molding. I've used a feather board to accomplish something similar.

Hope this helps.

Allthunbs


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Nickao65,
Wifey gets testy, currently, the kitchen table has a glue bottle, a gal. can of primer, paint brush, a cut section of the octagon post I've clamped up in the shop, 1/8" padding inserts for the post and many lumber invoicesesses. 

I'm thinking there's not a lot of difference with Derek's jig and feather boarding above and both sides of the bit. The couple molding profiles I ran through the router this winter forced me into that scenario. 2 3/4" high material between the bit and fence moving left to right, 10" wide feather board on top and 2/8" boards one on either side of the bit. I ended up pulling the last smidge through the bit.

I've had fir shard on me and jamb into the feather board.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

Well, if you leave enough space for movement of the workpiece, then you leave room for chips to get caught. You also won't get an accurate cut like many people are after. Yes, I realize Derek is using a vac. I also realize he's trying to bring another method to creating moldings. Again, back to the question, what's happens when the chips get trapped? Something has got to go somewhere. And to pull the material through? If it looks unsafe, feels unsafe, heck, if I even have to ask myself these questions, then I don't do it.

Time for me to go back on my break for awhile.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Considering the material dimension Derek is using it isn't thick enough to worry about warp bow or cup so the shoot can have a dado to fit the material and restrict slop. 
Note that the material doesn't contact the fence it must be offset by a 1/4" basically the chips never make it into the in feed side of the shoot. If the bit is set just right there shouldn't be any gap worth mentioning on the out feed side.

Outside of keeping remnants the hassle for me would be making shoots for all the different size moldings I end up cutting over time as opposed to 3 feather boards.

Diversity in problem solving 
There's more than one way to skin a marmoset eh Derek


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Let's face it guys, Derek's method works well as does Bj's method, however, for a one off run I would choose Derek's method because it's quick and totally safe. Bj, what ever happened to your old saying of KISS, keep it super simple?


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

You'll argue about this till the end of time, I just know it works, and works well with no obstruction at all.
Derek.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

derek willis said:


> You'll argue about this till the end of time, I just know it works, and works well with no obstruction at all.
> Derek.


Hi Derek:

Yup, you're right, we'll argue about this 'til the end of time. Just like the question of how many routerforumers does it take to change a lightbulb... 1 to hold the lightbulb, 1 to turn the building, and 20,000 giving advice ;-)

On the flip side, we need more direction from you. How much slop do you allow between the workpiece and the "chute?" How/where do you setup your shopvac to ensure maximum chip clearance. How do you prevent chip buildup in the "chute?"

Here's the problem. You are so accustomed to this you now do the setup automatically and incorporate slight adjustments instinctivly. We don't have your instincts so we have to learn it. In time others will read this thread and will still want to know what you do instinctively. So, could you please breakdown what you do into the simplest steps so those needing to learn, can.

Thanks for your patience and help Derek.

Allthunbs


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Allthumbs,
I thought I had covered everything, but, here goes:-
How much slop? I guess I allow no slop, or at least I can feel no slop, having a movable but tight fit prevents all the other problems accuring.
Where is the shop vac? The vac is at the centre, as I described, I have a split fence, the vac goes into the split aperture, which also corresponds to the cutter and waste removal aperture.
How do i prevent chip build-up? I don't need to it is removed at scource.
Hope this very simple explanation will suffice, and I'm beginning to wish I had kept my idea to myself.
Derek.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"I'm beginning to wish I had kept my idea to myself."

Come on Derek, this sort of thing keeps the forum interesting, with knowledge like you have, the forum needs you, just develop a thicker skin like me and give as good as you get!


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Good god Harry,I thought I was thick enough already.
derek.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI allthunbs

All I can say give it a go allthunbs,, you have posted about 500 times and not one picture or project from you,,,I know you said you are moving but this is a easy one to setup and do they say ,, take some pictures when you do it so others can see how safe and easy it can be done, I for one would love to see some pictures, like they say one picture is worth a 1000 words.

It looks like , all show(talk) and no go thing ....


I will say I have not tried it that way and that's because I like and used my fingers all the time.., to me it's not the KISS way Harry....

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allthunbs said:


> Hi Derek:
> 
> Yup, you're right, we'll argue about this 'til the end of time. Just like the question of how many routerforumers does it take to change a lightbulb... 1 to hold the lightbulb, 1 to turn the building, and 20,000 giving advice ;-)
> 
> ...


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

derek willis said:


> Allthumbs,
> I thought I had covered everything, but, here goes:-
> How much slop? I guess I allow no slop, or at least I can feel no slop, having a movable but tight fit prevents all the other problems accuring.
> Where is the shop vac? The vac is at the centre, as I described, I have a split fence, the vac goes into the split aperture, which also corresponds to the cutter and waste removal aperture.
> ...


Excellent and Thank You.

"I'm beginning to wish I had kept my idea to myself." -- No way in hell. Just because others may criticize, demean and degrade, it takes guts to stand up and say your piece. What's better is that some of us would actually appreciate hearing how you do things. We listen to Harry all the time. We don't have to agree with him but I certainly encourage his speaking up. I may be a pain in the A-- when it comes to searching out details but it is those details that make the difference between a bad idea and a good one.

BTW, there is a huge difference between not agreeing with someone and criticizing someone. Those who did not agree with your method, for whatever reason, have an obligation to speak up. They may not agree with your idea but they certainly appreciate your putting your ideas forward. What is not acceptable is turning discussion into criticism of the person.

Personnally, I look forward to your next posting in the hopes it will contain another gem for us to examine in intimate detail ;-)

Allthunbs


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Allthumbs,
I will not be going away, there will be more, you can bet your sweet a--- on it!!!
Derek.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

derek willis said:


> Allthumbs,
> I will not be going away, there will be more, you can bet your sweet a--- on it!!!
> Derek.


And here I though you Brits were prim and proper "glutimus maximus" please ;-)

Allthunbs


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Proper I may be, but prim, never.
Derek.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

derek willis said:


> Proper I may be, but prim, never.
> Derek.


Cute!


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## Electron (May 22, 2008)

Allthumbs, now we know each other, isn't it time for a first name?


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## mailee (Nov 11, 2005)

Now that IS a good idea Derek, thanks for sharing it.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'm sorry Peter for not replying sooner but I've only just seen it. I buy most of the fit-ups from a place here in Western Australia that imports them from around the world and distributes them to retailers, the prices are very good. If you do a Goggle search for "clock fit-ups and inserts" you'll be amazed how many hits you'll get from around the world.

The shot of the three clocks shows ones I get from the discount stores, test them for a couple of weeks to make sure they keep good time then I remove the crap cases and make new ones. The average cost of these is between $A3.00 and $A5.00.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

NIce clocks ,,, do your clocks run backwards down under ? 
like water(in the john when you pull the handle),cars,etc. I'm not sure about motors, you don't have any control over that I think.
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harrysin said:


> I'm sorry Peter for not replying sooner but I've only just seen it. I buy most of the fit-ups from a place here in Western Australia that imports them from around the world and distributes them to retailers, the prices are very good. If you do a Goggle search for "clock fit-ups and inserts" you'll be amazed how many hits you'll get from around the world.
> 
> The shot of the three clocks shows ones I get from the discount stores, test them for a couple of weeks to make sure they keep good time then I remove the crap cases and make new ones. The average cost of these is between $A3.00 and $A5.00.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Harrysin,
The frame in the 1st 2 pics is awesome, Pity my ignorance,how did you get the design on the tops of the sides? Is it an appliqué if it didn't come that way?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> NIce clocks ,,, do your clocks run backwards down under ?
> like water(in the john when you pull the handle),cars,etc. I'm not sure about motors, you don't have any control over that I think.
> =====


Funnily enough, when I first lived in London, I lived at the Eccentrics Club. This was one of the old style imperial clubs where toilers around the Empire stayed for a few weeks each year on their return to Blighty for their annual leave. It was an interesting place. Every bedroom had a dressing room, although there were only a couple of bathrooms per floor. Different priorities, in those days! I remember, on my first morning, being taken to one side by the Head Porter and being told, after receiving my mail, 'This is a tipping club, sir', with the Sir sounding more like cur!

I mention it because one of the eccentricities of the place was that there were many clocks there, all with an owl motif and all ran backwards. Whether it confused the world class bridge players, who met there to play after Crockfords kicked them out because they couldn't make any money out of them, I never knew.

All a long time ago! I wore a bowler hat and had starched collars in those days. It seems a century ago, but it was only 40 years.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> I'm sorry Peter for not replying sooner but I've only just seen it. I buy most of the fit-ups from a place here in Western Australia that imports them from around the world and distributes them to retailers, the prices are very good. If you do a Goggle search for "clock fit-ups and inserts" you'll be amazed how many hits you'll get from around the world.
> 
> The shot of the three clocks shows ones I get from the discount stores, test them for a couple of weeks to make sure they keep good time then I remove the crap cases and make new ones. The average cost of these is between $A3.00 and $A5.00.


Thanks Harry!

It sounds a good idea. The supermarkets here sell ridiculously cheap quartz clocks that I could try the same with.

Cheers

Peter


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