# Smallest lightest plunge router



## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

I'm making some shelving. I have 1400 shelf pin holes to drill. I'm using a triton mof001 in an indexing jig. The triton has the twist knob operated plunge. My wrist is getting sore, not to mention that this machine is overkill and unnecessarily heavy for drilling 1/4"○ by 3/8" deep holes.

So is there a lightweight machine, a trim router even, with a continuous duty motor and a smooth acting plunge mechanism?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

why are you using a router...
why not a template and a drill...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

stick486 said:


> why are you using a router...
> Why not a template and a drill...


+1...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

...Bridger...the twist knob is used when not in plunge mode for fine adjustment...like when in a table.

Disengage the lock...plunge will work like it should...

But your application should really be done with drill/press...


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## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> why are you using a router...
> why not a template and a drill...


that is how I have done it in the past. I have run into problems with wear in the indexing jig, the tendency of hand drilled holes to be not-quite-square, and the depth stop and jig tending to mark up the wood. I thought I'd try the router. I do like the hole that the router makes better, flat bottomed and chip free with a solid carbide down spiral bit. I don't like the mass of this router, nor the plunge mechanism.


Soooo, what's the lightest decent quality plunger out there?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The Bosch Colt. It excels at this type of work and the PR012 dust collection adapter does a good job.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

A DeWalt 611 does as well.

Charley


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## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

Nickp said:


> ...Bridger...the twist knob is used when not in plunge mode for fine adjustment...like when in a table.
> 
> Disengage the lock...plunge will work like it should...
> 
> But your application should really be done with drill/press...



the plunge lock is disengaged. to have it in free plunge mode, I have to push in and hold the button on the twist side handle. let it go, it reengages. I have 1400 holes. I want it to stay in free plunge mode.

drill press- these are large heavy boards. having to move/ re-position them for each hole.... again, I have 1400 holes.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I also agree with drilling. Use these to solve the wear problem (better to drill the hole for them with a drill press) Bushings and Inserts - Lee Valley Tools
Use these to solve the depth problem. Split Depth Collars for Drills - Lee Valley Tools I add about a 1/16" to the depth of the stop collar to allow for sawdust between the guide and the stop collar or you can blow the guide and collar clean and make a finish cut.

Between those two groups of items you can make shelf drilling jigs, drawer front drilling jigs, dowel locating jigs, etc. Just about any doweling jig you can buy can be made with these.


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## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

the points about using a drill to drill holes are well taken. However, I have drilled many thousands of shelf pin holes, enough to have tried various jigging approaches. I have used sleeve jigs, vix bit jigs and portalign jigs. I have used them all day long, enough to run into the ergonomic problems, the wear problems, you name it. I have seen how sleeves clog the flutes of the drill bit with sawdust. to get a clean entry hole with a drill bit in chippy veneers you need a spur point bit. with a spur point bit you have to bring the drill to a stop before loading into a sleeve or you'll blow the spurs in no time. waiting for the drill to coast down 1400 times is an expensive waste of time. vix bits too clog with sawdust, jamming the outer sleeve. then the sleeve spins against the template, rapidly wearing the bit and the jig. I have worn out plenty of both.

with the plunge router jig I'm using now, the jig registers a pin in a hole that does not have anything spinning in it, nor does it have sawdust passing through it. wear is negligible. the power draw and weight of a small router is similar to that of a handheld drill. the cutter is unrestricted, so sawdust is freely ejected and sucked up immediately by the vacuum hose attached. the weight of the tool is supported by the workpiece at all times except during repositioning. the plunge mechanism gives me squarer holes than a handheld drill and the depth stop mechanism doesn't impede sawdust flow.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bridger said:


> that is how I have done it in the past. I have run into problems with wear in the indexing jig, the tendency of hand drilled holes to be not-quite-square, and the depth stop and jig tending to mark up the wood. I thought I'd try the router. I do like the hole that the router makes better, flat bottomed and chip free with a solid carbide down spiral bit. I don't like the mass of this router, nor the plunge mechanism.
> 
> 
> Soooo, what's the lightest decent quality plunger out there?


I believe you will really like the Bosch Colt... A LOT!!!
Bosch PR20EVSPK Colt Palm Grip 5.6 Amp 1 HP Variable-Speed Combination Plunge and Fixed-Base Router Kit


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I'm a drill guy on this use, but if I had to use a router, it would be a Colt with plunge base and a spiral bit. 611 is also a nice light trim router.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Look at the trend t4 for 100 usd. It comes with adapter plate to use pc bushings It has a smooth plunge as Nick said to use the MOF in free plunge push the button. page 6 in manual http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/73/735b7488-4113-4793-a9fb-23b0021b83d9.pdf says" 
1.Free plunge depth adjustments can be made 
with the Plunge Mode Selector Button (13) engaged. Press it deep 
inside the handle until it engages inward.
2. 
Release the Plunge Lock Lever (10). Push the body of 
the router until the desired depth is reached. Re-lock 
the plunge lock leve


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If you have that many holes to drill and you do it on a regular basis then you should probably be looking at a dedicated boring machine with multiple heads. In the long run it is probably the most cost effective solution.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

This was actually a topic in one of The Router Workshop TV shows. Rick presented using a jig with a router to rapidly cut multiple holes with a template. This is an effective production method in a small shop as the holes are cut quickly, cleanly and with flat bottoms. The wood is stationary; a guide bushing on the router drops into holes in the template, you plunge and on to the next one. The router cuts the holes much faster than using a drill.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> If you have that many holes to drill and you do it on a regular basis then you should probably be looking at a dedicated boring machine with multiple heads. In the long run it is probably the most cost effective solution.


From an ergonomic standpoint, 1400 holes is production territory and you should be looking at a production tool. Apparently, you are drilling shelf pin holes on a regular basis, which is an even further argument for going this route.

If you are drilling this many holes on a regular basis, as you indicated, sooner or later repetitive motion is going to raise havoc. Carpal Tunnel or tendon/ligament damage will far outweigh the initial cost of a boring machine like Chuck has suggested.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Veritas® Shelf-Drilling Jig - Lee Valley Tools
Kreg® Shelf Pin Jig - Lee Valley Tools


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> I believe you will really like the Bosch Colt... A LOT!!!
> Bosch PR20EVSPK Colt Palm Grip 5.6 Amp 1 HP Variable-Speed Combination Plunge and Fixed-Base Router Kit


That is a sweet looking little router there Stick. I may have to put that one on my wish list. Looks like it would be good for sign making also.
Thanks
David


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

bridger said:


> the plunge lock is disengaged. to have it in free plunge mode, I have to push in and hold the button on the twist side handle. let it go, it reengages. I have 1400 holes. I want it to stay in free plunge mode.


Sounds like it's faulty. If you press the button all the way in, it should click and stay in.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

bridger said:


> the plunge lock is disengaged. to have it in free plunge mode, I have to push in and hold the button on the twist side handle. let it go, it reengages. I have 1400 holes. I want it to stay in free plunge mode.
> 
> drill press- these are large heavy boards. having to move/ re-position them for each hole.... again, I have 1400 holes.


...missed the 1400 part...yeow...ixnay on the drill press idea...

As far as the button goes, sounds like you may have a broken part or two in the handle. It's all plastic inside and you may have snapped the main gear. Might have happened due to spring pressure also. Happened to mine, took it apart, tried to glue it back together...NG...replaced the part, all is still well. I did do one other modification...I took out the heavy spring...not necessary for my table or plunge purposes. I'm pretty sure the pictures are in my uploads...after you get your 1400 holes drilled, of course  

...see part 51 in pic...the likely suspect...

If you're doing that many holes and often, you will more likely need something that suits production mode. If you're thinking a small router, plan on putting it in your hands before you buy...comfort and fit is going to be more important than power, blah, blah, blah... (but I'm sure you already know that)...


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

Cnc?


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Ok, Bridger...the thought of ME doing 1400 shelf holes has left me dazed and dizzy...so much so that I'm going to leave work early today...thanks for the excuse...

However...I did have a brain "gas expulsion"...

Understanding your dilemma with jigs, jig holes, etc...and the sawdust getting in your way how about making a "storyboard" that looks like a comb, or dovetail jig template, and use a guide bushing on your plunge router to glide it from hole to next hole...? Clamp the storyboard on your piece and have at it...

(guess that assumes your plunger plunges properly)

Alright...I'm leaving now...have a great weekend...


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

Nice. Good idea.


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## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

AndyL said:


> Sounds like it's faulty. If you press the button all the way in, it should click and stay in.


I spent an hour on the phone this am with the tech guy tearing it down. You have to pull it all of the way apart to get into that knob, where we found 3 broken things. Parts ordered.


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## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

Nickp said:


> how about making a "storyboard" that looks like a comb, or dovetail jig template, and use a guide bushing on your plunge router to glide it from hole to next hole...? Clamp the storyboard on your piece and have at it...




that's pretty much what I have. the storyboard is a section of perforated strap like this:

(image may be at bottom of post)

the hole spacing is nice and consistent. the pin is a screw head ground to be a nice fit with a taper for easy loading. the strap is clamped to the board and the router with the jig attached to the base is moved from hole to hole. I'm using every 3rd hole.


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## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

Everend said:


> Cnc?



Ya CNC or a boring machine would be sensible, but I don't have room. I have to be able to break it down and put it away when I'm done.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

@bridger - The Kreg shelf pin jig works well for me. I have two of them hooked together.
I use a drill for the holes. The bit has a stop on it so all holes are drilled the same depth.

Here are some pics of it in action. Sometimes, I would have to make a spacer or two to position the jig where I want it. Sayin' that, the cabinets I have built have shelves that sit flat on the pins.

Hope this helps.
Mike


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Or, you can get the Festool set-up


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## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

yep those factory jigs look nice and I bet they work nice too. I generally end up building my own jigs, just because I don't want to wait for them to come in the mail, because I'm a cheap bastard and because I enjoy the challenge of working jig designs out from scratch.

the ones I have that are factory made, like the Woodrat, generally were bought secondhand, opportunistic purchases, as it were. 

the shelf pin jig I made is easy to use (if the router plunges right...) and dead on accurate. and the perforated strap cost IIRC $12 for a 6' length. the rest was scrap on hand.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I have a piece of peg board that I opened the holes that I use up just enough to fit the bushing on my DeWalt 611 plunge router. I position this piece of peg board and clamp it in position. Then just go down the line of holes plunging into each one or every other one. The spacing of the peg board holes suits me, and their positions are very incremental and accurate. If I mess up the jig somehow or decide that I want a longer version, I still have scrap peg board to make more. I've also used a 1/4" VIX bit in a drill with a piece of peg board having the holes drilled out to fit the outside diameter of the VIX bit, but I prefer using my DW611. There seems to be less splintering of the holes using a 1/4" straight bottom cutting bit and the DeWalt 611. 

Charley


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

bridger said:


> that's pretty much what I have. the storyboard is a section of perforated strap like this:
> 
> (image may be at bottom of post)
> 
> the hole spacing is nice and consistent. the pin is a screw head ground to be a nice fit with a taper for easy loading. the strap is clamped to the board and the router with the jig attached to the base is moved from hole to hole. I'm using every 3rd hole.


The reason I suggested a storyboard like a comb is to facilitate moving the router from hole to hole. With open ends, like a comb, you'll be able to slide the router from hole to hole, like doing dovetails, as opposed to having to take time to position it over a hole...just a different way to do what you're already doing...you could make it out of a long piece of wood or better yet, a pegboard and just cut out the comb shape...

interested in how you proceed...keep us updated...


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

I like the idea of using a plunge router. I also have used many different ways, mainly all the ones everyone listed here. I sold my Kreg when I sold my shop and think I will give this jig a try. I will probably make it specifically for my cabinet sides so I can do one piece without relocating the jig.
I like this design because it supports the router well and no need to lift the router each time, just raise and slide to the next hole. 
I think once built it will be much faster than drilling. I always hated those spring loaded bit, they over heat and clog up to much. Once hot, they will melt your Kreg jig if not careful.


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## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

Nickp said:


> The reason I suggested a storyboard like a comb is to facilitate moving the router from hole to hole. With open ends, like a comb, you'll be able to slide the router from hole to hole, like doing dovetails, as opposed to having to take time to position it over a hole...just a different way to do what you're already doing...you could make it out of a long piece of wood or better yet, a pegboard and just cut out the comb shape...
> 
> interested in how you proceed...keep us updated...




having just drilled 1400 holes with my jig, the idea of not having to lift and place the router 1400 times did occur to me 
My thought was to have the pin retractable by the thumb of the hand moving the router (my right hand, the left is operating the plunge).

I just watched the festool video linked earlier in this thread. it uses a similar system.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

bridger said:


> having just drilled 1400 holes with my jig, the idea of not having to lift and place the router 1400 times did occur to me
> My thought was to have the pin retractable by the thumb of the hand moving the router (my right hand, the left is operating the plunge).
> 
> I just watched the festool video linked earlier in this thread. it uses a similar system.


I'm sure it crossed your mind... 

Hopefully you won't need to do another 1400 holes before you take care of that Triton...if it's the gear I'm thinking, it will not be difficult to replace if you are mechanically inclined...just keep all the screws and springs in the right order...

Good luck...


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

bridger said:


> I spent an hour on the phone this am with the tech guy tearing it down. You have to pull it all of the way apart to get into that knob, where we found 3 broken things. Parts ordered.


That sounds like some good tech support!


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## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> I believe you will really like the Bosch Colt... A LOT!!!
> Bosch PR20EVSPK Colt Palm Grip 5.6 Amp 1 HP Variable-Speed Combination Plunge and Fixed-Base Router Kit


ordered.


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

I've been eyeing the Dewalt DW611 w/ plunge base for some time. While reading this thread last week I added it to my amazon.com shopping cart but I just can't justify buying it yet. I already have the colt (fixed base only) which lives in my work van and a Porter Cable in my table in the shop. The Dewalt would live in my shop so I wouldn't need to dig the colt out each time.
I do have a plunge base for the PC but it is so stiff it seems unsafe. Also the locking mechanism to secure the plunge base to the motor is a pain.


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

I went ahead and order the DeWalt 611. It came in the mail today and man that tool is cool. I did a simple test cut with it. The dust collector was connected and ooh the LED lights when you turn it on. Very nice


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## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wib2lf401csw649/20170309_135738.mp4?dl=0

A short video of the shelf pin hole jig in action


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Looks like you have it well under control...did you get your Triton fixed...?


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

I meant to post this when I first read this thread and got distracted. This meets all the requirements - home-made (cheap) and the design is such that you don't have to pick up the router to index to the next hole so router weight is not a factor, plus you won't be fighting the vacuum hose either.






And it's a Bosch >


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Nice jig, it would be nice if drilling 1600 pin holes, but I've never needed that many at one time, so my DWP611 and my modified peg board jig has always worked well for me. I don't pick the router up between holes, just tip it and slide the base to the next hole where the bushing then drops in and I tip the router back upright and plunge it, 

I have the vacuum port accessory and use it, I bought a self storing clothes line unit that is attached to the ceiling above my work bench that I pull down and attach to the vacuum hose/power cord to hold the slack up out of the way, The vacuum hose and power cord are bundled together about every 18" using Velcro strips and I have a long Velcro strip on the end of the clothes line that I just wrap around the vacuum hose/power cord bundle at about the point where the slack would sag down and drag. The spring winder in the clothes line is just strong enough to hold the hose and wire up off the bench and out of the way. I do the same thing whenever using a sander or other tool where the power cord and vacuum hose would be dragging on the bench without it.
At the ceiling, the vacuum hose is just run over hooks that are screwed into the ceiling and the power cord is just run over the same hooks. With an 8' ceiling, it's easy for me to just hold a loop of power cord or vacuum hose up above me to get it on or off of the hook, so climbing isn't necessary.

This is the clothes line that I'm using. It can be dis-assembled to add or remove a turn or two to increase or decrease the spring tension. I left the plastic end piece on the clothes line to keep the end from pulling back into the reel when not in use. The long Velcro strip just attaches to this plastic piece.

Honey-Can-Do 40 ft. Retractable Clothesline-DRY-01113 - The Home Depot

The Velcro strips are just power cord organizers like these

https://www.amazon.com/Patu-cable-O...=1489159750&sr=8-6&keywords=power+cord+velcro

Charley


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

that's great!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I've seen that jig before and it's really well thought out but like Charley I don't do enough shelf pin holes to warrant building it or have it hang around the shop. For small projects, like the medicine chest I used the technique for, I figured out a way to make shelf pin holes without a jig and without even using a tape measure to measure them with. The thread is attached some photos in my uploads. You do need a drill press for my method though.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Tom, thanks for posting the video, that is a great looking jig for a doing the holes before assembling the cabinets.
I have always used the
Rockler template JIG IT® Shelving Jig-JIG IT® Shelving Jig Set (Template & Self-Centering Bit) - Rockler Woodworking Tools after the cabinet is assembled. 

Herb


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

@Herb Stoops

I looked at the Rockler when I was in the market for a jig but went with the Kreg because it matched more the way I use it. Some of my cabinets are smallish and it was too long for me, plus I don't typically put a row of holes all the way up the cabinet. Like Mike (@MT Stringer), I use different height spacers to locate the jig, and drill the set of holes centered on the nominal shelf position. It's probably a wash time-wise using the spacers versus drilling the holes, but I prefer to have minimal holes in my cabinets. But then, I'm the guy that used to take the hinges off kitchen cabinet stiles so I could drill for the screws that pulled the cabinets together so that the screw heads didn't show afterwards. I often wondered if anyone taking the cabinets down later on cussed me out until they figured out what I'd done.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

tomp913;1493017 But then said:


> So your the guy, I been looking for you for years, you could have at least used some kind of screws besides drywall screws, ruined more saw blades than I care to count.:laugh2::laugh2::laugh2:
> 
> Herb


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> So your the guy, I been looking for you for years, you could have at least used some kind of screws besides drywall screws, ruined more saw blades than I care to count.:laugh2::laugh2::laugh2:
> 
> Herb


Huh, somebody else was doing that too? I never used drywall screws (for that anyway), too easy to snap one off. I used to carry a container with Johnson's Paste Wax to lube the threads to make them easier to drive in the oak, still use it when building face frames with pocket screws.


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## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

Nickp said:


> Looks like you have it well under control...did you get your Triton fixed...?


Yep, but the plunge on the jof001 is now getting sticky. This is the downside of having all of those nice features in such a lightweight package, I guess. Lots to go wrong....


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I also agree with drilling. Use these to solve the wear problem (better to drill the hole for them with a drill press) Bushings and Inserts - Lee Valley Tools
> Use these to solve the depth problem. Split Depth Collars for Drills - Lee Valley Tools I add about a 1/16" to the depth of the stop collar to allow for sawdust between the guide and the stop collar or you can blow the guide and collar clean and make a finish cut.
> 
> Between those two groups of items you can make shelf drilling jigs, drawer front drilling jigs, dowel locating jigs, etc. Just about any doweling jig you can buy can be made with these.


Thanks for posting that Charles . I had no idea there was such a thing as those inserts . Yet another purchace to make


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

bridger said:


> Yep, but the plunge on the jof001 is now getting sticky. This is the downside of having all of those nice features in such a lightweight package, I guess. Lots to go wrong....


Disassemble the JOF001, clean it up and apply TRI-FLOW dry lubricant to the moving parts...

...buy, yeah, I know what you mean...


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