# How to machine aluminum



## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

I am going to get an aluminum blank for a fence and I wonder is I can put slots in it with the router. I am not sure how thick it is. Probably 3/16's.

thanks

Kelly


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Kelly Rittgers said:


> I am going to get an aluminum blank for a fence and I wonder is I can put slots in it with the router. I am not sure how thick it is. Probably 3/16's.
> 
> thanks
> 
> Kelly


Welcome to the forum Kelly, I have often routed Aluminium, the plate with pieces missing is about 1/8" which I cut using either the band or radial arm saw and rout with a slow speed to prevent bits of Aluminium from melting and welding to the cutter, which can take a lot of effort to remove. The simple set-up shown is great for one off slotting jobs for which you should use a plunge cutter, that is one with an extra blade at the bottom.


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

I am a beginner. I simply want to make a few slots in a piece of aluminum which will become a router fence. I was thinking about using a router with a bit I don't care about too much and going very slowly.

KR


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Kelly welcome to the forum and thanks for joining us. There are many different opinions about routing aluminum, the majority don't recommend it. You could use a drill and drill holes at the end of each slot then use a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade to finish cutting the slots, using the drilled holes as an entry point for the saw blade. This might be a little safer in the long run.


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

CanukGirl, do you mind elaborating on the safety aspect? I have a pretty good idea of why this generally isn't done, but I'm interested to hear from others about it.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I only know what I have read from other experts like Pat Warner:


> Don't expect to rout ogees, rabbets and the like into aluminum without adversity. It is possible but has to be done in stages, many stages. I would expect to make 1/4 x 1/4 rabbets, for example, in 5-10 passes! By the 10th you may have spoiled the cutter. Convoluted profiles removing large amounts of stock should be done on a milling machine; routing aluminum should be occasional at best.


I am sure if you do a search on this forum you will find the aluminum routing discussion has come up many times. Those with a lot of routing experience may say go for it. But milling machines and routers are two different animals. I would NEVER tell a novice to go ahead and use a router on aluminum. Being still some what inexperienced myself, I wouldn't even try it. Milling machines run a heck of a lot slower then routers and end mills are a different breed of tool from router bits. My take on it is simply use the right tool for the job. That is the *SAFEST* way!
I think if you follow my suggestion above for making the slots in your fence you will find it simple and safe. It might not work for plate steel, but it should work just fine for aluminum.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I will 2nd Harry post

Alum.is Non-Ferrous Metal, you will have tons of small chips and safety glasses are a must have item.. and the chips come out very hot.

Aluminum - Nonferrous Metals - Engineer's Handbook

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harrysin said:


> Welcome to the forum Kelly, I have often routed Aluminium, the plate with pieces missing is about 1/8" which I cut using either the band or radial arm saw and rout with a slow speed to prevent bits of Aluminium from melting and welding to the cutter, which can take a lot of effort to remove. The simple set-up shown is great for one off slotting jobs for which you should use a plunge cutter, that is one with an extra blade at the bottom.


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

CanuckGal said:


> I only know what I have read from other experts like Pat Warner:
> 
> I am sure if you do a search on this forum you will find the aluminum routing discussion has come up many times. Those with a lot of routing experience may say go for it. But milling machines and routers are two different animals. I would NEVER tell a novice to go ahead and use a router on aluminum. Being still some what inexperienced myself, I wouldn't even try it. Milling machines run a heck of a lot slower then routers and end mills are a different breed of tool from router bits. My take on it is simply use the right tool for the job. That is the *SAFEST* way!
> I think if you follow my suggestion above for making the slots in your fence you will find it simple and safe. It might not work for plate steel, but it should work just fine for aluminum.


 actually, it's edge cutting you don't want to do with aluminum, because aluminum needs to be CLIMB milled, otherwise you get a very rough cut. which you definitely don't want to do with a router,(very dangerous) even on a milling machine, everything needs to be tightened down good, else you get chatter.. slots, using a bit of the size you need to make the slots, for instance if you want 1/2" slots, use a 1/2" bit so you cut both sides of the slot at once, eliminates the chatter, you need to set the speed low, feed slowly, and do multiple passes when routing aluminum. btw, a TIN(titanium nitride) coated bit is much less prone to having aluminum stick to it!.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

I"ve used my router for cutting thin (1/8") aluminum plate. Used it full speed with a 1/4" HSS (Harbor Freight) spiral upcut bit (for wood). It worked really well. Made a real mess - lots of chips. Not sure about the finish - I didn't really care - it was good enough (clearance hole).

I also cut small aluminum pieces on my cuttoff saw (under 1/8" thick and less than 1" wide). Didn't do anything special - no special blade. This works well to. I've also cut small acrylic bar (1"x2") on the cutoff saw. Aside from the smell, it was easy. Didn't hurt the blade, didn't gum up, didn't melt.


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## Swallow (Jan 13, 2010)

Cutting heavy aluminum up and including one inch thick is not a problem on the table saw but it does depend on the grade of aluminum. The soft beer can type of aluminum that most people deal with can be a real nightmare due to gumming while the better alloy grades like the t5 and t6's can easily be cut up to 3/4" thickness in three passes.
It really depends on your feed rate and a heavy toothed carbide saw blade. Thin kerf blades Not so good as they tend to develop a resonance and then life can get really interesting. Also the use of a good lubricant is a must when cutting the softer grades and is recommended for the harder grades as well.

As an aside anodized aluminum will kill just about any cutting edge and I wouldn't recommend it.


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

Swallow said:


> Cutting heavy aluminum up and including one inch thick is not a problem on the table saw but it does depend on the grade of aluminum. The soft beer can type of aluminum that most people deal with can be a real nightmare due to gumming while the better alloy grades like the t5 and t6's can easily be cut up to 3/4" thickness in three passes.
> It really depends on your feed rate and a heavy toothed carbide saw blade. Thin kerf blades Not so good as they tend to develop a resonance and then life can get really interesting. Also the use of a good lubricant is a must when cutting the softer grades and is recommended for the harder grades as well.
> 
> As an aside anodized aluminum will kill just about any cutting edge and I wouldn't recommend it.


 i'd like to add a full face mask and leather body protection for anything above the table, as those chips come out so fast they really hurt, and they get very hot too!. special aluminum cutting blades are made that have beveled areas behind the cutting edge that prevents many problems when cutting aluminum.


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## Stainlessman (Oct 4, 2010)

I know this post is probably obsolete now, but no one mentioned the most important thing to routing aluminum and that is lubrication. You can liberally douse the cut with WD 40 or use a product called Do-All, which is a very dense waxy type of lubricant that thins and flows when heated by the friction of cutting or grinding. It comes in a cardboard tube and you just smear it onto the cutter every so often. It may be too late for this thread, but it may help for future reference.


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

I didn't know my post had gone on so long. I think I am going to pass on the aluminum cutting for the time being.

Thanks

Kelly


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Kelly one last bit of info from Pat Warner:

Deb:
I have some information here on routing and wood-shop machining of aluminum.
I'd post pix and linx but with fewer than 10 replies to your forum (my
situation) I cannot.
I'll let you post as you see fit. FYI I am the Quillman on the your forum.
******************************************************
" I am going to get an aluminum blank for a fence and I wonder is I can
put slots in it with the router. I am not sure how thick it is. Probably
3/16's.
thanks, Kelly".
*************************************

I machine aluminum on a regular basis with woodworking tools, & routers do
most of the work. Would I recommend routing as a viable machining process
to your group? Not without some hands-on expereince from somebody who does
it. There are way too many surprises; just not something I would be
comfortable teaching on-line. I teach the art, &, to be sure, to rout,
mill, hand grind/sand, saw & drill aluminum (safely and accurately) is a
rather steep climb up the learning curve.

Why is that? Routing aluminum is unlike routing any other material. If
ordinary woodworking practices are applied: expect surprises. Every
process I use on aluminum is unque to the material. For example:

Work holding.

A workpiece has 12 possible directions of motion, 3 rotational (CC & CCW)
and 3 linear (up/down, in/out, left/right). Moreover, each component in
your fixturing has the same 12 degrees of freedom.
Ignore this on the drilling or routing table and you will spoil the work.
Moreover, you may get hurt.
And to that end, hand & table routing processes differ substantially from
one another. As the thickness of stock increases so do the precautions and
routing dynamics. everyhting has to be fixtured.

Bottomline: Without priors, routing aluminum is dangerous business.
And if you're an occasional woodworker with no experience in routing
plastics and aluminum, do not start until you have some experienced people
show you the way.
There are far too many surprises.

It is possible and practical, however. As I rip & cut to length on the
bandsaw. Usually on stock up to about 1" thick. I rout to length and
width, typically to ~+ or - .0005". The stuff can be edged (beveled,
rounded over, etc) and morticed through or blind too; I do both.
(Everything on the Fixing the Work on the Drill Press page has
been routed).

Drilling requires special attention if precision is important. I use this
fence (http://patwarner.com/images/positioner_a.jpg) to improve my
chances. I would guess every piece of aluminum used in a jig/fixture
whether for the woodshop or metal shop, has to be drilled.

Get back if there is confusion, Deb. Thank you for your support.
Pat Warner.
ROUTER WOODWORKING


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Just do it - it's no big deal.

BTW, a rigid body in 3 dimensional space is considered to have only 6 degrees of freedom (DOF) - 3 rotational and 3 translational. Sense (+/-, CW/CCW) is not considered as an additional DOF.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

RJM60 said:


> Just do it - it's no big deal.
> 
> BTW, a rigid body in 3 dimensional space is considered to have only 6 degrees of freedom (DOF) - 3 rotational and 3 translational. Sense (+/-, CW/CCW) is not considered as an additional DOF.


please decrypt. Some of us don't speak metallurgy.


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

CanuckGal said:


> Kelly one last bit of info from Pat Warner:
> 
> Deb:
> I have some information here on routing and wood-shop machining of aluminum.
> ...


actually, routing slots(with a bit the size of the slots needed) is much easier and safer than edge milling, as the cutter is cutting both climb and conventional milling at once, so the forces balance out. you can ask quillman this, and he'll say the same thing.


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## Swallow (Jan 13, 2010)

*Lubrication*



Stainlessman said:


> I know this post is probably obsolete now, but no one mentioned the most important thing to routing aluminum and that is lubrication. You can liberally douse the cut with WD 40 or use a product called Do-All, which is a very dense waxy type of lubricant that thins and flows when heated by the friction of cutting or grinding. It comes in a cardboard tube and you just smear it onto the cutter every so often. It may be too late for this thread, but it may help for future reference.


And here I thought that I HAD touched on that. Whilst WD 40 is great for drilling and tapping aluminum it's not so good for sawing and milling as it doesn't stay where it's supposed to. The Do All lube is just a combination of bee's wax paraffin and karnuba wax, floor wax works just as well and is a lot cheaper as well as easier to get. 

Traditionally kerosene has been used as both a coolant and a lubricant for lathe and mill working aluminum.
The best lube for machining aluminum however is lard oil and if someone in the household does any baking it might just be found in the refrigerator under the label "Shortening" or "Pork Lard", it's smelly, messy but it works and has probably been used longer than any other lubricant for machining aluminum. Oh yeah and it's CHEAP.


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## ptah (Feb 26, 2011)

*Machining Aluminum with a Router*

I used an Amana 51402 spiral 'o' flute bit to cut fifteen ventilation slots, 1/4" x 7", in 1/8" 5052 aluminum plate using an old Makita plunge router and a guide. The cuts began with a plunge and finished in one pass. The result was an extremely smooth cut, no chatter. That bit will last for many more such cuts. If I were to use this bit on a regular basis for single pass cuts I would select the down cut version. I purchased the up cut because I planned on using a flat piece of plywood below the plate (the chips can't go down).


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Update:
Getting more control. Every component on the sled was routed (save the steel & threaded rods).
2 stops with blind slots done with single flute solid carbide. 
All rectangles, plastic and .500" aluminum, were routed to net dimensions.
Most importantly, this sled was made with a lesser grade sled.
Takes the fixture to make the fixture!
This one accepts stock 20" wide and 2" thick and very small stock, <2" x 2".
Stops and clamps rigidify the work; it can't get lost. A lot of safety built right in.
You can over feed and still have an accident but my hands are not near the cutter.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Quillman said:


> You can over feed and still have an accident but my hands are not near the cutter.


Good looking fixture!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Quillman


I like it but what is it for ?

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Quillman said:


> Update:
> Getting more control. Every component on the sled was routed (save the steel & threaded rods).
> 2 stops with blind slots done with single flute solid carbide.
> All rectangles, plastic and .500" aluminum, were routed to net dimensions.
> ...


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Works like any x-cut sled but does require a special fence to slide against.
Sizing plastic, aluminum (to + or - .0005"), MDF and x-cutting wood.
Laps (dovetail), 2 faced tenons and other woodworking chores where holding or tearout (including cope & stick) is a problem.
Laps in picture are as-cut. Cutter entry edges are as clean as the exits.
Straight edge samples way too scarey to hold against a cutter, also done on the 10 pound sled.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Quillman

Now I see where you get your pictures from 

I knew looked like something I saw b/4 ,Pat's web site, but I could not recall it right off the bat.

New Pix/Product

Precision Subbase Kit

http://www.routerforums.com/portabl...-recommendation-newbie-advice.html#post226976

Router Forums - View Single Post - How to machine aluminum

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Quillman said:


> Works like any x-cut sled but does require a special fence to slide against.
> Sizing plastic, aluminum (to + or - .0005"), MDF and x-cutting wood.
> Laps (dovetail), 2 faced tenons and other woodworking chores where holding or tearout (including cope & stick) is a problem.
> Laps in picture are as-cut. Cutter entry edges are as clean as the exits.
> Straight edge samples way too scarey to hold against a cutter, also done on the 10 pound sled.


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## dapetersen (Aug 23, 2010)

Kelly,
As a tool and die maker, there's a big difference between 1100 rpm with a mill, and 30000 rpm with a router. The safe way is drill, Dremel and file. Drill the holes for the ends of the slot. Drill holes with at least 1/16" metal between them. This will keep the drill from walking(being pulled back to the previous hole). Take a Dremel and superglue 2 cutoff wheel together and cut out the line between the slots. Using 2 together will make them much less likely to "blow up". Once you have a slot big enough to fit the file in, file out to the lines. I attached a crude drawing. Make sure you wear glasses when drilling and Dremelling. Wear a dust mask when dremelling, the small particles of aluminum and the cutoff wheel aren't good for you. Hope this helps.

Dave


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Quillman
> 
> Now I see where you get your pictures from
> 
> ...



BJ, you didn't need to say that Quillman get's his pictures from Pat's website.
Because.....................................................................................................
............................ Quillman is Pat Warner.:yes4:


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

Kelly Rittgers said:


> I am going to get an aluminum blank for a fence and I wonder is I can put slots in it with the router. I am not sure how thick it is. Probably 3/16's.
> 
> thanks
> 
> Kelly


Kerosene is used to prevent the chip from welding the end mill or tip when milling or turning but aluminium is still a pain to machine. Why not rough cut with a jig saw or hacksaw then using a file designed for aluminium to finish. These files will cut nearly as fast as milling anyway.


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## don_chr (Feb 20, 2011)

Have you tried looking for aluminum extrusions with T-slots already cut? Many of the wood working supply places sell these. You may also be able to purchase at McMaster-Carr or a metal supply yard. Many plalces sell these aluminum extrusions that are specifically made as T-slots or as pices that can be bolted together to make fences.

Regards,
Don C


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

I would like to add my 2 cents worth to this discussion. After 25+ years as an aircraft sheet metal mechanic and inspector there are several things to consider prior to trying to machine aluminum with a router. (1) Type of aluminum, i.e. Hardness 2024, 6061, 5052 with 2024 being the softest and so on. Even though I have never tried it with a Router I wouldn't hesitate machining aluminum with the proper care (lock it down good and use a hand held router) and the use of a solid carbide bit. A 1/2" shank Up Spiral bit preferably, or buy a milling machine cutter with a 1/2 inch shank. 2 plus flutes are essential also. Milling machine end mill cutters are no more expensive than router bits and in most cases cheaper.

Machining with a solid carbide bit should pose no problem at 10-20,000 RPM with no more than .001 deep passes and slow FPS. With aluminum you drill or machine at high speed and with steel at slow speed. Milling or cutting aluminum at high spindle speeds and very slow FPS is probably the best. I have seen aluminum machined at 50,000 RPM plus and slow FPS of course.

I just cut a 3/4" aluminum bar into sections yesterday with my Dremel tool set at 35,000 RPM and it cut very well and very fast, with very little wear to my cutting disk. When machining aluminum a water or alcohol mist is best. Oil or wax based lubricant is too messy and tends to clog up the cutter possibly creating a rough cut.

ALWAYS wear full wrap around eye protection because from my experience your eyeball acts as a magnet for aluminum chips. I have had my eyes operated on more than once for aluminum removal, but never for steel. Even when wearing safety glasses a couple of times, go figure.


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## cynthiamyra (May 17, 2016)

Using a drill and drill holes at the end of each slot is a good idea. Finish of the cutting slot can be done using a jigsaw cutting blade. This method is utilized for Machining Aluminium nitride, alumina and other ceramic products.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

welcome to the forums Cynthia...
you don't suppose you can stop in here...

http://www.routerforums.com/introductions/


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Cynthiamyra; If i haven't welcomed you previously, _welcome!_

Man, that's an old thread...where'd you find it? Last comment was 5 years ago. 
If you're interested in working Al with woodworking machinery, you'll love Pat Warner's website (known here as 'Quillman').

He offered some thoughts back a bit:
Router Forums - View Single Post - How to machine aluminum


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

CanuckGal said:


> I only know what I have read from other experts like Pat Warner:
> 
> I am sure if you do a search on this forum you will find the aluminum routing discussion has come up many times. Those with a lot of routing experience may say go for it. But milling machines and routers are two different animals. I would NEVER tell a novice to go ahead and use a router on aluminum. Being still some what inexperienced myself, I wouldn't even try it. Milling machines run a heck of a lot slower then routers and end mills are a different breed of tool from router bits. My take on it is simply use the right tool for the job. That is the *SAFEST* way!
> I think if you follow my suggestion above for making the slots in your fence you will find it simple and safe. It might not work for plate steel, but it should work just fine for aluminum.


As an engineer I totally agree. Machining aluminium is a very difficult alloy to work due to it's likelyhood to weld itself to the edge of the cutting tool. The tip needs to be flooded with coolant or kerosene and a slow speed. Even then it sometimes welds a ball of swarf to the cutting edge often with disastrous results. I would NOT use a router for this.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I know it's been done successfully by many people many times but I'll avoid it too. One of my concerns would be getting metal shavings into my router windings and to me it's not worth the risk.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

As an engineer I totally agree. Machining aluminium is a very difficult alloy to work due to it's likelyhood to weld itself to the edge of the cutting tool. The tip needs to be flooded with coolant or kerosene and a slow speed. Even then it sometimes welds a ball of swarf to the cutting edge often with disastrous results. I would NOT use a router for this.
*************************************
And the very reason I do not provide a how-to-rout PDF on aluminum; it's too risky.
And I will say, that with comprehensive/intensive studies of cutters, feed rates, jigs & fixtures, and practice I can rout to better than .001" in width and length (AL. & plastic) . And all of this occurs in the 20,000 RPM area, dry and without waxes and other lubricants. See front page samples, all cut with semi-ordinary woodworking tools. It is, to be sure, a technique sensitive art.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

carolpalmer said:


> Aluminium is oreffrered for its material properties. Since it is extensively adaptable it is used for fabrication and machining processes.



Yes, but that's not the question, Carol. Pat uses plastics and Al extensively in his crafting of jigs and fixtures. *As he mentioned he does most of his machining with woodworking machinery.*
Obviously from his beautifully crafted products it's more than feasible, but again as Pat stated, he's aware of the potential hazards and isn't flat out stating that everyone can or should do it. 
_Routering Al is the big hurdle!_
Drill Press Fence


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