# Deluxe Drawer Pull Jig



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I have to install some drawer handles for a friend and thought I better make one of these to help make the process a little quicker and more precise.

I did some research and looked at a number of jigs and this is what I ended up building using scrap material in the shop.

The jig is a replica of Rockler's Deluxe Drawer Jig (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16411) I made a few modifications to it which included cutting a shallow dado on the backside of the walnut block to allow the T-Track to rest on top of the drawer and allow the block to register to the side of the drawer.

So once again Inspector gadget had his helmet camera working and took a few pictures to show you how I made my latest jig!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

The EZ Mark by sommerfeld tools

Easy Mark Hardware Drilling Jig-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

" The Easy Mark drilling jig will help you align and drill the hardware mounting holes for knobs and handles quickly, precisely and with absolute repeatability. And, when you finish, all handles and knobs will be in perfect alignment with one another...a sight to behold!

If you're still measuring, marking and drilling large numbers of mounting holes without the aid of a device like this, you're wasting a lot of valuable time.

Here's how it works:

Rest the raised ledge on the back side of the Easy Mark on the top edge of the drawer front.

Slide the horizontal stop all the way to the right and center the device on the drawer front, using the left and right half-scales as indicators.

Slide the stop to the left until makes contact with the right side of the drawer front and tighten.

Adjust drill bushings (3" to 4-1/2" on-center) to match hardware mounting hole(s) and tighten.

Loosen the locking knob on the drill bushing block...slide it vertically to your desired position...and re-tighten the locking knob.

Use a 3/16" twist drill bit in the applicable hardened bushings to bore mounting holes.

Move the Easy Mark to the next drawer and repeat the process. "
+++ *****
==


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

You are a thinker...
you execute rather well too...
now to put tape over the holes you're not using at the time...
don't ask why this is recommended...


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

BJ that is preety pricy for what it does. Mine cost me under $10.00 to build, and even a guy like you can appreciate a shop made jig over a pricy retail jig. 

But hey thanks for posting a jig I never saw and glad I never bought!

Off to buy a router bit with the money I saved.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I use a grease pencil and circle the holes I need to drill. When I am done I rub them off with a little elbow grease. But yes been there done that and know what to do now to prevent drilling unnecessary holes and using woodfill.


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

Very nice. Thanks for posting the pictures and the instructions to build. This will be on my "To Do" list because one of these days I will learn to build the drawers and cabinets that I really need in my shop.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

You're welcome I make many jigs as you know but when I come across one that works right every time I buy it ,60.oo bucks is not that much for a jig that works.

If I make some cabinet doors or drawers and go to all that work I don't want a jig that can make all that work into some fire wood with a hole that's out of place...

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TRN_Diesel said:


> BJ that is preety pricy for what it does. Mine cost me under $10.00 to build, and even a guy like you can appreciate a shop made jig over a pricy retail jig.
> 
> But hey thanks for posting a jig I never saw and glad I never bought!
> 
> Off to buy a router bit with the money I saved.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

BJ

That is why you first make a test board and test prior to drilling in plastic. Once you confirm there are no errors, there shouldn't be any extra fire wood. But I do understand buying something that performs as it states. Nothing preturbs me more than buying something only to find out you could have built it yourself and saved money and do what you need it to do. 

Having said that I will keep my fingers cross and let you know how I make out on Wednesday when I do the (17) handle install in the kitchen.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Wow, what to do, what to do. I was excited to see your version Dan, and then when I saw Bob's link to the one already made, I was even more pleased, as I don't know if I'll have time to build your's Dan. BUT, 70 bucks for something I may use only about 17 or 18 times (my cabinets doors and drawers). I do already have two t-tracks, plastic and knobs. So materials would cost me zero. If I didn't have enough decisions to make with my kitchen and living room remodel.... ;o)


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

LOL I hear ya! You have to factor in your time I guess, but for me, I like to slip out to the shop and sip on a rye and cokeand enjoy the building process. For me, any time spent in the shop is like free therapy.

The tricky part is drilling the holes so they line up with the handles or pulls. I found the easiest method to do this is what I showed you. Mark the holes first on the edge of your bench and then transfer the marks onto a scrap board. Using an awl, I mark the center and then drill the holes. I drill the holes a tiny bit oversize to allow for wiggle room since your tighening them anyway, this allows room for minor error alignment.

I do alot of renos and I should of made this a long time ago but never got around to making one. I had all sorts of jigs depending on the size of drawer or door. Not to discourage you or take anyway from Mark's Sommerfield jig as he makes excellent tools and jigs. I just like making my own stuff with material I have on hand. Not to mention the pride in saying you made it and tweaked the design.


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## mikelley (Aug 2, 2012)

Dan, now if we could only make the bits! Maybe you could work on that in your spare time.


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