# Are the ends on these window stools routed or miter returns??



## RickDel (Mar 14, 2009)

Hello, I need to make a window stool and I want the ends, I believe it's call the horn, to look like like these, but I'm not sure how they're made. Are they miter returns or routed ends. If they're routed, can you please tell me how to make them (just the stool not the apron). Thanks!


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

The first one looks like it was routed or done with a shaper.
The second looks like formed solid surface material. Possibly shaped with a shaper or router.
The third appears to be a mitered return.
The first would be easy to accomplish with a large round over bit. Depending on the thickness of the material, you'd want the radius to match.


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## RickDel (Mar 14, 2009)

Thanks Gene.. that's what I was thinking, but wasn't sure which way to go. I know I can cut the miter and do a return, but the first two look much cleaner. I'm just concerned about my ablility to make that round over. I have a 1/2" and 1/4" round over bits, but is this a hard profile to cut. Can I make it look good by just running in across my router table in both directions or will I have tearout issues?

Thanks Again.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

All make with standard router bits...
the miter and the return all done with one bit and one piece of stock.much stronger than the 45 deg.miter way and much cleaner... just band saw out for the window face frame..

see the bits on MLCS web site.
MLCS router bit and Katana index

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## RickDel (Mar 14, 2009)

> miter and the return all done with one bit and one piece of stock.much stronger than the 45 deg.miter way and much cleaner


So, why then do people build it the other way (cut a miter, return, and glue)? It seems easier and better looking to cut it with a router and jig saw? Right??? Am I missing something?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Most don't want to take the time, a miter, return, and glue is very fast.
Put on the profile cut off part of it and glue back in place with a nail or two..

But it will always look like a fast chop job.. 

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RickDel said:


> So, why then do people build it the other way (cut a miter, return, and glue)? It seems easier and better looking to cut it with a router and jig saw? Right??? Am I missing something?


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## RickDel (Mar 14, 2009)

Okay... Thanks Bob!

So, I'll use a round over and do the front and both sides of the window stool. Is there a preference on which side to do first (short side or long front) of the stool? I'm paranoid of making all my cuts and ruining the stool with a bad router job. 

Thanks


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the RouterForums Rick. Glad to have you join with us.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

RickDel said:


> So, why then do people build it the other way (cut a miter, return, and glue)? It seems easier and better looking to cut it with a router and jig saw? Right??? Am I missing something?


Stool & apron is usually a mitered return because you eliminate the end grain especially on stain grade. Your stool should continue back into the window jamb to your window as your pictures show, with the horns notched to protrude past your casing on each side 3/4" to 1". This is usually two pieces the stool & apron. The apron will have mitered returns that should have a finish width that is in line with your outside to outside casing width such as your picture #3. 

Even if your apron has no detail such as a plain 1x it should still have a mitered return to eliminate end grain. These cuts are done with a miter saw & the notch for the horns can be done with a table saw, jig saw, or bandsaw (hand saw if that's all you have). If this is for paint grade you can route your stool profile & then notch out your horns. Caulk & paint will hide many sins.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

RickDel said:


> Thanks Gene.. that's what I was thinking, but wasn't sure which way to go. I know I can cut the miter and do a return, but the first two look much cleaner. I'm just concerned about my ablility to make that round over. I have a 1/2" and 1/4" round over bits, but is this a hard profile to cut. Can I make it look good by just running in across my router table in both directions or will I have tearout issues?
> 
> Thanks Again.


Route your end grain first. Then route with the grain & that usually will take care of any tear out you have with the end grain operation.


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## RickDel (Mar 14, 2009)

Thanks You!! Great Instructions!!! 

I'll let you know how it turns out.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

We call that stool or sill stock in my area Andersen window makes a number of sill/stool profiles in a few different widths that might work for you and or give you some ideas. 

However outside of expense with those profiles if you desire a return you'll require a matching router or shaper bit, even then your bit may not match the profile exactly. 

As mentioned above your next option is a mitered return, I personally don't like mitered returns. I've seen my fair share of damaged returns, separations, missing chunks at the outside corner, cracks from trying to nail and repair a failing corner.

Routed ends can be hit with sanding sealers prior to staining and or clear poly barriers. Stains can be lightened, applied more sparingly and wiped off faster at the ends. 

The 1st profile looks like it could be done with a round over and maybe a bull nose
2nd, rnd over and cove and bead bits on some 6/4 or 2, 1Xs glued and routed or routed and glued.
3rd, outside of the blurry miter line I can't tell what the profile is

I prefer simple bevel, chamfered or rnd over profiles for the stool and a decorative profile for the apron and casing. Because of the prefabbed stool cost I prefer to make my own and use C&B and Sugar pine for my int trim and casing. Just as expensive as prefab but I know my profiles will work all the way around.

You might consider decorative corner blocks to either side of an apron and in line with the vert. casing. The last project a window replacement, (int trim, old victorian) I bought some CNC'd clam shells to fit in recessed corner blocks. Cape Cod Woods Hole, the owner snapped when she saw them in all the bedrooms and bathrooms. 

I turned the shells up and out for the master bdrm, up and in for the extra bdrms and up and left for the baths, which she hadn't noticed in the baths. I never thought anyone would get so excited over what I considered a small thankyou gift for the work


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## RickDel (Mar 14, 2009)

Ghidrah, thanks for the advise! I think I'm going to use a round over bit for my stool profile (would have started the project today, but it rained all day).


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