# My trim router goes skiing



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

After ski mounting my small Bosch router last week, Bj. informed me that similar routers are not available in America so, thinking that all trim routers are similar, but not ideally suitable for ski mounting and that most woodworkers have one but other than adding a sub base, would be difficult to mount,I came up with this approach. I used the same rods because both sets of skis wont be needed at the same time. After completion, I decided that if I were to remake them, I would make the cheeks about 1.5" taller and raise the slots by the same amount, also, I would make the wings that the rods go through at least 1/2" wider. The former change would improve the range of adjustment.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Just the two final shots.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Nice job  ,can't have too many ski jigs  plus it's neat way to keep track of the routers.


==========


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

GREAT job Harry! What are the advantages of the trim/ski over the regular/ski set ups?

Appreciate all the nice pictures as usual.


----------



## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Another great step-by-step! 

By the way tapping wood for machine screws is something rarely seen and I will have to give it a try. Pat Warner taps MDF and hardwoods a lot for 1/4-20 screws, but other than him, I don't recall anybody mentioning this method.


----------



## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Harry, 
Great tutorial! You guys that take the time to photo your steps deserve a huge load of gratitude.

A question:
Would epoxying a nut in a recess (or using a tee nut) suffice as an alternative to tapping into the wood? For those of us who don't own a tap and die set.
Gene


----------



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Harry,
A great tutorial, as usual!


----------



## SE18 (Apr 6, 2009)

Great. I downloaded the photos for reference as I need to do this.

My rods would be smaller diameter. Where do you get different diameter rods and would hollow or solid be better or does it matter?

Since I'd be using smaller rods, there's be a chance of them bending if too wide so my ski run would need to be smaller. Or perhaps, I could find different sized blocks to put under the ski poles to prevent sagging?


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob said:


> GREAT job Harry! What are the advantages of the trim/ski over the regular/ski set ups?
> 
> Appreciate all the nice pictures as usual.




Whilst I have never had difficulty doing fine work with a 3.25 hp router hand held or ski mounted, Bj considered it hard work and suggested ski mounting a smaller router, which I did last week. He came back with his version but it still had a fairly big router, hence this latest one which should be perfect for things like freehand patterns/monograms on box lids, and I'm sure that members will come up with many more ideas Bob.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I've never had problems tapping into hard woods Paulo but into MDF............a bit "iffy" I think.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Gene Howe said:


> Harry,
> Great tutorial! You guys that take the time to photo your steps deserve a huge load of gratitude.
> 
> A question:
> ...


Gene, there is no reason why nuts, Tee nuts or threaded inserts couldn't be used. If I had made the ski for myself, rather than as a project for the forum, I would have inserted tubes for the rods to slide into and made threaded inserts for all three screws. It was just a basic idea for members to play with and produce their own, hopefully improved versions.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

SE18 said:


> Great. I downloaded the photos for reference as I need to do this.
> 
> My rods would be smaller diameter. Where do you get different diameter rods and would hollow or solid be better or does it matter?
> 
> Since I'd be using smaller rods, there's be a chance of them bending if too wide so my ski run would need to be smaller. Or perhaps, I could find different sized blocks to put under the ski poles to prevent sagging?


Why would you want to use smaller rods David, by smaller I'm assuming that you mean smaller diameter. Whilst hollow rods of suitable wall thickness are in fact stronger than solid rods, there would be the problem of how to secure them to the end cheeks. As for procuring metal rods, I never scrap electro/mechanical equipment without first removing potentially useful parts, especially rods. In spite of this, I have, on a number of occasions had to visit metal merchants and BUY 1/2" and 12mm bright mild steel rods. If your router has side fence holes, then this is what determines the rod diameter, if however there are no holes and you intend to make a similar set up to what I have shown, then you're free to choose a suitable rod diameter.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

My thanks go to you all for your interest and kind remarks.


----------



## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Harry, your 1/4x20 tapped hole is crooked, but other wise, very nice work.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Dr.Zook said:


> Harry, your 1/4x20 tapped hole is crooked, but other wise, very nice work.


Shush Dave, you weren't supposed to notice that! Anyway it can't be seen with the shorter screwed knob. Now that I know you're watching me I'll slow down and take more care.


----------



## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

*Jarrah?*

OK I've never heard about this jarrah wood you used...

What is it like? 
Is it only in Australia?

It looks interesting, from what you are using it for I would asume it is very tough, and hard.

Thanks


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

High Danny, this Wikipedia link tells the full story of Western Australian Jarrah. When dry, it would be impossible to drive a nail in without a pilot hole, as I found out when I arrived here from England in 1964.

Eucalyptus marginata - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Last week a friend of a friend who knew that I had a metal lathe asked me to make some bushings for him and when told that I do it for a hobby, not for money, he asked if I needed perhaps a bowl blank. I told him that I actually did need a slab to rout a clock like the one I made for my wife last Christmas. Today he sent this slab of Jarrah about 13" dia.
Members who still don't understand what a ski mounted router can do will see how to plane an uneven slab like this when I do the photo shoot.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Last week a friend of a friend who knew that I had a metal lathe asked me to make some bushings for him and when told that I do it for a hobby, not for money, he asked if I needed perhaps a bowl blank. I told him that I actually did need a slab to rout a clock like the one I made for my wife last Christmas. Today he sent this slab of Jarrah about 13" dia.
> Members who still don't understand what a ski mounted router can do will see how to plane an uneven slab like this when I do the photo shoot.


Harry,

Waiting for the photo shoot......:sarcastic:

James


----------



## Twill57 (Jun 8, 2009)

Harry another great tutorial photo shoot. 
BUT, I'm still not sure about the skis. I am anxious to see how you plane with them. I have poured over your gallery and read several posts here. For me, there seems to be limited uses with less space using options. When I find some extra shop time, I will have to make a set and give them a try.


----------



## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

harrysin said:


> Last week a friend of a friend who knew that I had a metal lathe asked me to make some bushings for him and when told that I do it for a hobby, not for money, he asked if I needed perhaps a bowl blank. I told him that I actually did need a slab to rout a clock like the one I made for my wife last Christmas. Today he sent this slab of Jarrah about 13" dia.
> Members who still don't understand what a ski mounted router can do will see how to plane an uneven slab like this when I do the photo shoot.


Harry,

You have some pretty good friends of friends, I wish someone would donate some exotic wood to me!

As I mentioned in another thread, I have purchased my third router and one of those is probably gonna end up in a set of skis...at least part time. I am looking forward to your posting of the planing technique.


----------



## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

harrysin said:


> High Danny, this Wikipedia link tells the full story of Western Australian Jarrah. When dry, it would be impossible to drive a nail in without a pilot hole, as I found out when I arrived here from England in 1964.
> 
> Eucalyptus marginata - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


Thanks Harry; it looks like it would be interesting to work with.


----------



## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

harrysin said:


> Last week a friend of a friend who knew that I had a metal lathe asked me to make some bushings for him and when told that I do it for a hobby, not for money, he asked if I needed perhaps a bowl blank. I told him that I actually did need a slab to rout a clock like the one I made for my wife last Christmas. Today he sent this slab of Jarrah about 13" dia.
> Members who still don't understand what a ski mounted router can do will see how to plane an uneven slab like this when I do the photo shoot.


Harry, Tell us more about that piece. Is the outer dark ring natural? Does it work well? Have you worked Ipe? Is it similar in it's working properties?
Wiki tells us it's a Eucalyptus. All of that type I've seen in the US doesn't get that big, nor is it that hard. Wish it was, though.
Anybody know if "Jarrah" is available in the US. Looks like a wood that would be fun to play with.
Gene


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Gene Howe said:


> Harry, Tell us more about that piece. Is the outer dark ring natural? Does it work well? Have you worked Ipe? Is it similar in it's working properties?
> Wiki tells us it's a Eucalyptus. All of that type I've seen in the US doesn't get that big, nor is it that hard. Wish it was, though.
> Anybody know if "Jarrah" is available in the US. Looks like a wood that would be fun to play with.
> Gene


Gene, that dark outer ring is wax, put there by the gent who gave it to me to seal the edges, allowing the wood to dry slowly. From what I can gather, these guys buy electric frypans at car boot sales for no more than $5.00 and toss candles, whole and part burnt, wicks and all into the mix. I haven't heard of Ipe


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Twill57 said:


> Harry another great tutorial photo shoot.
> BUT, I'm still not sure about the skis. I am anxious to see how you plane with them. I have poured over your gallery and read several posts here. For me, there seems to be limited uses with less space using options. When I find some extra shop time, I will have to make a set and give them a try.


I've made a start on the clock today but can't do any more until I get the tile next week to ensure the rebate is the exact size. Here is a preview shot of setting the height of the skis ready to plane the uneven surface using a 25mm (1") cutter, and a shot after completion but before sanding. The only other way that I can think of to remove about a 1/4" from each side would be hard work with a hand plane because I wouldn't like to try it through the thickness planer.
The third shot shows the Sheoak one that I made for last Christmas.


----------



## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Aha, melted wax. Good on them for that idea with the fry pans. 
Here's a wiki link for Ipe.
Tabebuia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

From the pictures you've posted of Jarrah, Ipe is similar in appearance and, apparently, toughness. 

Gene


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

harrysin said:


> High Danny, this Wikipedia link tells the full story of Western Australian Jarrah. When dry, it would be impossible to drive a nail in without a pilot hole, as I found out when I arrived here from England in 1964.
> 
> Eucalyptus marginata - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


 
Once seasoned, can you work it with a router? (From your wikipedia link) 

"When fresh, jarrah is quite workable but when seasoned it becomes so hard that conventional wood-working tools are useless."


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> After ski mounting my small Bosch router last week, Bj. informed me that similar routers are not available in America so, thinking that all trim routers are similar, but not ideally suitable for ski mounting and that most woodworkers have one but other than adding a sub base, would be difficult to mount,I came up with this approach. I used the same rods because both sets of skis wont be needed at the same time. After completion, I decided that if I were to remake them, I would make the cheeks about 1.5" taller and raise the slots by the same amount, also, I would make the wings that the rods go through at least 1/2" wider. The former change would improve the range of adjustment.


Hi Harry: my trim router is identical to your's but just a bit more powerful. Mine is buried at the moment...

-- drill a hole to match the barrel diameter, slit the block in two 
-- drill the ends for two carriage bolts and capture a rubber washer between each of the sides and tighten the carriage bolts. Drill the sides (below the carriage bolts) to match the size of the rods, drill and tap for a brass thumbscrew. I use the Rockler gooseneck magnifying glass and light - highly recommended.

Just a different method of doing the same thing. 

Allthunbs


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

BigJimAK said:


> Once seasoned, can you work it with a router? (From your wikipedia link)
> 
> "When fresh, jarrah is quite workable but when seasoned it becomes so hard that conventional wood-working tools are useless."


With sharp tools there is no problem, high quality furniture is made from premium grade Jarrah (at premium prices!) But as I mentioned, don't try to knock nails into it. The colour varies greatly, and in a single board can vary from grey through many shades of red and on to black.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Harry: my trim router is identical to your's but just a bit more powerful. Mine is buried at the moment...
> 
> -- drill a hole to match the barrel diameter, slit the block in two
> -- drill the ends for two carriage bolts and capture a rubber washer between each of the sides and tighten the carriage bolts. Drill the sides (below the carriage bolts) to match the size of the rods, drill and tap for a brass thumbscrew. I use the Rockler gooseneck magnifying glass and light - highly recommended.
> ...


Ron, such a method didn't escape me, in fact had I needed to make one in a hurry for myself, that probably would have been the quick method chosen. However, as this is ROUTER forums and I made it as a forum project so used as much routing as possible in it's construction. I am hoping to see members post a selection of different methods and shall be disappointed if they aren't an improvement on mine!


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Gene Howe said:


> Aha, melted wax. Good on them for that idea with the fry pans.
> Here's a wiki link for Ipe.
> Tabebuia - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
> 
> ...


Interesting stuff Gene, at least once I realised that I wasn't looking at a foreign language site!


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Ron, such a method didn't escape me, in fact had I needed to make one in a hurry for myself, that probably would have been the quick method chosen.


What you're really saying is you were waiting for me to say it;-) ok, I bit 



harrysin said:


> However, as this is ROUTER forums and I made it as a forum project so used as much routing as possible in it's construction. I am hoping to see members post a selection of different methods and shall be disappointed if they aren't an improvement on mine!


Whoa hold on there, how does one improve such artistic endeavours? It wouldn't surprise me if you start adding marquetry "just for effect!" I'm no artist, I just needed a way of clamping my 3700 and didn't want to over-stress the case. 

I forgot to mention a single layer piece of bicycle inner-tube can serve to cushion router start/stop and improve the clamps grip without putting too much pressure on the router case. I noticed that your's was metal but mine is plastic.

Thanks for bringing this up Harry. We can both now await another method from other members.

Allthunbs


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Not just another method Ron, but PICTURES!


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Not just another method Ron, but PICTURES!


Can't. I found part of one of my skis this morning. I don't know where the other parts are. Workshop delayed -- carport sank 1/2" in the past two days and I'm scrambling to get that corrected -- did you know freshly sawn, not dried lumber (spruce) is really heavy! Normally, I pick up two or three and toss them on my shoulder. One at a time with these babies.

Once I'm closed in for winter, I can get back on track with social stuff like this forum. Until then, bits and pieces is all I can give.

Allthunbs


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I like the neat holder ,,PORTER CABLE came up with a neat way to hold a round motor in the mounting bracket,,,it's a very simple Allen bolt and round pin bolt and a simplet angle plate, the screw is in place and in the barrel nut the clamp is pulled up and locks the router motor base in place very simple..in that way you can get the knob off the side of the bracket..

It's just a rebate pocket/slot in the bottom of holding bracket.. 

=======
.


harrysin said:


> After ski mounting my small Bosch router last week, Bj. informed me that similar routers are not available in America so, thinking that all trim routers are similar, but not ideally suitable for ski mounting and that most woodworkers have one but other than adding a sub base, would be difficult to mount,I came up with this approach. I used the same rods because both sets of skis wont be needed at the same time. After completion, I decided that if I were to remake them, I would make the cheeks about 1.5" taller and raise the slots by the same amount, also, I would make the wings that the rods go through at least 1/2" wider. The former change would improve the range of adjustment.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

It's a cute idea Bob but mine only needs a finger and thumb, no tool required. Let's face it, if we asked ten members to devise a method, I'll bet we would have at least five different ones.


----------



## nikki1492 (May 31, 2009)

Harry, Thanks for all the work you put into these forum projects. I'm no where ready for any of them but your work will be here when I am. Your posts are great both verbally and graphically. 

I get more interested in following your projects than practicing my angled box joints. <grin>

Barb


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

" I'll bet we would have at least five different ones. " Lets do that,,I would love to see some new ones 

" finger and thumb " same with this one, you don't need to use a Allen bolt a thumb screw would work great ,then the knob would be off the side of your new ski jig, just more room to slide your router to the right side on your round and smooth rod b/4 the dead stop edge of the ski...  

====



harrysin said:


> It's a cute idea Bob but mine only needs a finger and thumb, no tool required. Let's face it, if we asked ten members to devise a method, I'll bet we would have at least five different ones.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

nikki1492 said:


> Harry, Thanks for all the work you put into these forum projects. I'm no where ready for any of them but your work will be here when I am. Your posts are great both verbally and graphically.
> 
> I get more interested in following your projects than practicing my angled box joints. <grin>
> 
> Barb


Barb, you're embarrassing me, but I like it! Thanks for your kind words.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, I think we're running out of steam on this one, what should we "argue" about next?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

OK, how about brass guides and how to use them 
In the plunge router and in the router table the right way h34r: 


=======



harrysin said:


> Bj, I think we're running out of steam on this one, what should we "argue" about next?


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Unfortunately Bj. I've said it all regarding Porter cable type template guides, they simply are not in the same category as the steel guides and method of attaching as the Makita and Hitachi................there simply is nothing further to discuss on this matter, I have used both types extensively and consider that I'm in a position to judge. Without wishing to offend anyone I have to say that because Porter Cable is American, it doesn't automatically mean it's the worlds best, your TV colour system NTSC, is by world standards the worst in the world, even the French SECAM system is superior.


----------

