# 45deg chamfer fence



## dickhob (Apr 7, 2012)

I need to put some 1plus inch, 45deg chamfers on some (full) 1x3in strips. Seeing as how I don’t have a large bit, I thought I’d try to use a straight bit and an auxiliary 45deg fence and some light passes. I made a triangular fence that would face the table fence and allow the work to be pushed past the bit at a 45deg angle.

I took repeated light passes. It worked, but I can’t help but feeling there is a safer, better, simpler way to accomplish this. I’d appreciate comments and suggestions.
Thanks
Dick

I’ve included some pics
1.	Shot of the table fence, aux fence, and the chamfered strip (after it was cut)
2.	This is my aux fence. I made if from some scraps I had. The multi layered pieces and the slot are the result of the scrap piece- nothing to do with the design.
3.	Wide shot of the whole table setup. The aux fence is held to the table fence with a piece of corian and spring clamps.
4.	End grain shot of the finished chamfers.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Dick, as long as you were using a push stick and your fence is set up as a jointing fence so the outfeed section limits the amount of the cut you got it in one.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Dick

You're emulating the way this job was tackled in commercial shops on large (spindle) moulders before the more widespread availability of tilting arbors. Traditional-style rip saws don't have tilting blades, either, but instead rely on a tilting fence which achieves much the same sort of result.

On a safety note the only thing I could suggest is that you make the angled bed piece longer so that you are supporting more of the material in cut

Regards

Phil


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## dickhob (Apr 7, 2012)

*45deg fence*

Thanks guys,
I tried the jointer fence setup, but it didn't work that great. I was probably in too much of a hurry and didn't get everything adjusted correctly. I ended up taking the spacer out and set the bit for a shallower cut and lived with a little snip on the ends.

The fence was "long enough", but you're right- If I need to do more of this I'll make a longer fence for better support.

Thanks for the quick responses.
Dick


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## CGeorge1 (Oct 14, 2004)

*45 degree safely cut*

Hi Dick, I believe Mike touched on the key component, the push stick. Try designing one especially for this task to push the jig and the workpiece at the same time.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

CGeorge1 said:


> Hi Dick, I believe Mike touched on the key component, the push stick. Try designing one especially for this task to push the jig and the workpiece at the same time.


Hi George

The jig should be fixed to either the router table fence of better still the router table and the material pushed over the top

Regards

Phil


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## CGeorge1 (Oct 14, 2004)

Phil P said:


> Hi George
> 
> The jig should be fixed to either the router table fence of better still the router table and the material pushed over the top
> 
> ...


Phil you're right of course but I didn't see any easy way for him to fasten it to the table or the temporary fence he made with the Corian, so my thought was to push both together with the special push stick on the end and his hand hold guiding on the angle jig. Not the best answer I know.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George

That's a fine way to do it without a bigger 45 deg. bit on hand..

===


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

CGeorge1 said:


> Phil you're right of course but I didn't see any easy way for him to fasten it to the table or the temporary fence he made with the Corian


Hi George

Actually you might be surprised at how strong a hold a few blobs of hot melt glue can have on Corian. It's often used yo fix temporary plywood or MDF cramp (clamp) blocks when pulling a joint together on an installation job. Holds well and knocks off cleanly with a sharp thump from a steel hammer

Regards

Phil


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## dickhob (Apr 7, 2012)

*45deg fence*

When I did my cuts, the fence did move to the left (push direction) but the Corian held the fence solidly against the table fence. I agree that a longer fence would be better and safer, but like I said, I used scrap that I had on hand.

If I have to use this setup again, I'm thinking another stick IN FRONT of the Corian and left of the aux fence. This could be clamped to the table and stop any movement resuliting from the cutting passes.

Great idea about the push stick- Obvious, but I just didn't think about it.

This forum has been a great resource for ideas and answers!..

Thanks
Dick


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## CGeorge1 (Oct 14, 2004)

*45 degree safely cut*



dickhob said:


> When I did my cuts, the fence did move to the left (push direction) but the Corian held the fence solidly against the table fence. I agree that a longer fence would be better and safer, but like I said, I used scrap that I had on hand.
> 
> If I have to use this setup again, I'm thinking another stick IN FRONT of the Corian and left of the aux fence. This could be clamped to the table and stop any movement resuliting from the cutting passes.
> 
> ...


Another thought, if your going to make another setup, might be to make your 45 degree jig the full width of the table and clamp it at both ends along with your temporary fence. This with the push stick should make a good pass safely and repeatable.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

I find this interesting and many excellent tips are listed above. Due to the slenderness of the workpiece - my choice would have been tablesaw, with; of course, all of the necessary safety features. This is the cool thing - and I have noticed other members say that "In woodworking there are usually several ways to tackle a project - do what feels right based on tools available, research and/or experience".
Just remember that there is no piece of work worth a safety risk. Cool thread!


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Take this opportunity to buy a 45 degree bit. MLCS has them and the shipping is free. This is the best way to build your selection up. Once you have it you'll find other uses for it.


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