# My first table saw!



## nightdeath4223 (Sep 23, 2014)

I finally got my first table saw up and running. I can finally start on all the projects I have planned.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Congratulations Michael. Just a warning: once you start on projects they just keep coming and coming without end. But then of course, that's the fun part of all this. Don't forget to share your projects with us.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

I certainly wouldn't mind having that saw sitting in my shop  nice!!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Nice! Congrats on the new 'baby'... 
How are you dealing with the slope in your garage floor? I guess until you put an outfeed table in front of it it isn't really a huge issue ...except if you want to use a Wixey.
Wixey.com - Digital Angle Gauges
Even then, zeroing it pretty much eliminates the problem of a non level reference point (the table).


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)




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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"I can finally start on all the projects I have planned."
No! Wait! Stop!! You need a jointer, planer, and ________ , before you begin ...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

nightdeath4223 said:


> I finally got my first table saw up and running. I can finally start on all the projects I have planned.


Congratulations... I still consider myself a newbie and still visit youtube for videos about safe operation of my new-found hobby's tools... Didn't know how much I didn't know...

Good luck with it...and stay safe...Nick. Welcome to the forum...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> "I can finally start on all the projects I have planned."
> No! Wait! Stop!! You need a jointer, planer, and ________ , before you begin ...


blade collection for that saw to end all blade collections...
large collection of planes/spoke shaves...
many many more routers...
staggering collection of router bits...
drill press..
router tables...
lathes...
massive dust collector...
mortiser..
disk/belt sander...
spindle sander...
Tormex sharpening system...
hones...
HVAC in the shop...
beer cooler...


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

you started off with a nice one!


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## nightdeath4223 (Sep 23, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> Nice! Congrats on the new 'baby'...
> How are you dealing with the slope in your garage floor? I guess until you put an outfeed table in front of it it isn't really a huge issue ...except if you want to use a Wixey.
> Wixey.com - Digital Angle Gauges
> Even then, zeroing it pretty much eliminates the problem of a non level reference point (the table).


My nieghbor and I about pulled our hair out to get the saw to align (.005) so I decided that I can not control the floor. If it is sloped it is very very subtle and if I need to sand things out well looks like I have to buy another tool! :yes4:


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## nightdeath4223 (Sep 23, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> "I can finally start on all the projects I have planned."
> No! Wait! Stop!! You need a jointer, planer, and ________ , before you begin ...



I know this is very true, if I had all the space in the world then I could make a serious run at all the tools I want. The hard part is picking the ones I can use with the limited space I have. Next on the list is a dust collector, which the reserach is driving me nuts, then a drill press.


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

Nice saw. That should last a life time and do anything you want to do.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

nightdeath4223 said:


> I know this is very true, if I had all the space in the world then I could make a serious run at all the tools I want. The hard part is picking the ones I can use with the limited space I have. Next on the list is a dust collector, which the research is driving me nuts, then a drill press.


note:
add a very roomy shop to the list....


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

But, but, but...it's on a mobile base?! Doesn't it have adjustable feet/wheels? It should definitely be adjustable for levelling.
It's nice to have something in the shop that's perfectly flat and level as a reference for other tools, just sayin', no pressure...


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## craigwbryant (Jan 14, 2013)

Wow...that's a heck of a nice saw for a first saw!


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Stick, you put the most important tool on the bottom of your list ....


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RJM60 said:


> Stick, you put the most important tool on the bottom of your list ....


the beer is after the tools are put up...


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

That's a very nice saw for being your "first table saw". I went through 4 table saws before getting one that nice.

Now do yourself a BIG FAVOR and make a few push sticks that hold the work down as well as push it past the blade. Those push sticks that you have in the picture will keep your fingers away from the blade, but they won't hold the leading edge of the work down against the table and the rear teeth of the blade will tend to try to lift it up and throw it at you. This is called "Kick Back". There are many horror stories and pictures on the web about it. A Google search for "Table Saw Kick Back" will give you more than you will want to read and see about kick back. Some of the pictures are quite gruesome.

See the attached picture for the design of push stick that I'm talking about. Something that will hold the work down as well as push it past the blade and keep your fingers safely away from the blade at the same time. There are many similar designs out there as well as manufactured plastic versions, but a home made one is just as good. You can pick any one of the similar designs, whatever suits you. Try making and using different ones and different thicknesses. Make several of whichever style you like best and always keep one on the right side of or on top of the fence so it's handy when needed. I keep spares around and make new ones when they get damaged. Also, always follow two simple rules- 1. Never get your fingers closer than 6" from the spinning blade and 2. Never reach over the spinning blade. These rules have kept me safe for over 60 years.

You should also consider getting a pair of Grrippers MICROJIG | Homepage | Work Smarter | Woodworking Safety Tools | Table Saws Safety Accessories | Wood Work Tools | How to Table Saw | Adjustable Pushblocks | Tapering Jigs | Table Saw Splitter | Precision Miter Bars for safe cutting of very small stock. See the Grripper demos on Youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OSTE6PWQvcQ You should buy or make these safety devices before you start spending money on more tools. You will likely be using your table saw more than any other tool, so get properly prepared and in the habit of doing it safely. 


Charley


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Nice! Congrats on the new 'baby'...
> How are you dealing with the slope in your garage floor? I guess until you put an outfeed table in front of it it isn't really a huge issue ...except if you want to use a Wixey.
> Wixey.com - Digital Angle Gauges
> Even then, zeroing it pretty much eliminates the problem of a non level reference point (the table).


It's nice to have your table level (my panel saw is), but not really a requirement. Just think how PITA that would be on a portable saw.

If there _is_ a slope, you just zero the gauge to where it is while at perpendicular to your table... then everything relates to that "zero." That is the big plus with that gauge.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I know what you mean about the saw, got a Laguna fusion saw last year and the difference between it and my old Delta contractor model is amazing. A couple of things. You are wise to have a dust collection system next on your list. Shop vacs just don't cut it. I have a simple system with a separator (a fiber drum with a sealable metal top) and a blower from Harbor Freight. I used the 4 inch flexible tubing to connect everything. Rockler has a pair of separator connectors that you can put through that metal lid that spit the dust out at an angle, which gets the whirlwind effect going. The blower sucks the air out of the drum and then out side the shop through a big filter box. The blower came with a filter bag, but it is really not very good and creates back pressure that reduces the air flow. The port outside is filtered by a 20x30 washable filter, so there is a lot of air flow now. I also have a dust collector that hangs from the ceiling, which I run for 2-3 hours after cutting ends that captures the dangerous free floating tiny particles. I recommend that you wear a ventilated dust mask when you cut. Keep things off the floor so you can get the vacuum attachment into corners, otherwise you will soon find yourself coughing like mad from the fine dust you stir up just walking around. I had throat cancer many years ago, so I am really conscious of the carcinogenic effect of dust. Studies show that home shops are far more dangerous than commercial shops for the fine, airborne dust that causes the worst lung damage.

If I had it to do over again, I'd consider a commercial unit, which is a lot out of pocket, but not much more than what it costs to outfit a home made model. $40 for the sealable drum, $80-100 for various connectors, $130 -160 for the blower, $60 or so for hoses, clamps, another $40 for the outside filter box or a 1 micron filter bag. That's near $400! Could have bought a really nice Jet or even a Harbor freight for that amount and wouldn't have to mess with all the mis-sized fittings. I have a 20 foot flexible hose I pull around and attach to ports on each of my machines because I don't want 4 inch pipes all over the place.

I agree with one of the posters about getting a shed for a larger work space. If I had to do it over again, I'd have sprung for a 24 foot square shop shed. If you build it yourself it costs about 1/4-1/3rd as much as having it built. There are lots of unemployed carpenters around who can help with the heavy lifting. There are some nice kit sheds at Lowes and Home Depot. In our area, you now need a permit to build anything larger than 10x12, and if you want to hard wire it and put it on a concrete pad, it costs more. But then, spending on stuff is just part of the woodworking addiction, isn't it?


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

WOW! Congratulations, and sweet saw!


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Nice! Congrats on the new 'baby'...
> How are you dealing with the slope in your garage floor? I guess until you put an outfeed table in front of it it isn't really a huge issue


I guess I am not understanding the sloped floor comment. Are lots of garages pitched so much that it's difficult to use a table saw?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Brickmason said:


> I guess I am not understanding the sloped floor comment. Are lots of garages pitched so much that it's difficult to use a table saw?


it's really nice to have a flat and level by level surface to work on and reference from.....
a sloped floor still allows for flat but level isn't going to happen...
level TS's are safer to use...


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## Artemix (Aug 10, 2014)

Envy is a good thing, right?.


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> it's really nice to have a flat and level by level surface to work on and reference from.....
> a sloped floor still allows for flat but level isn't going to happen...
> level TS's are safer to use...


Yes, I certainly understand that a level TS is safer to use. I have a PM66 on a mobile base but a pretty level floor. Is it just assumed that most garage floors are enough out of level that the table saws are dangerous to use? I have really never heard of this being a big issue unless someone has an old garage with a busted up floor but the original poster sure didn't look like he had a floor like that from the little bit that I could see.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Bricknhank said:


> I guess I am not understanding the sloped floor comment. Are lots of garages pitched so much that it's difficult to use a table saw?


Hi Hank.

My understanding is that in some states/counties an enclosed garage has to be built with a slope from back to front. Not sure what angle.

Must have something to do with gas (petrol) or gas (propane) draining outside. :blink:


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> it's really nice to have a flat and level by level surface to work on and reference from.....
> a sloped floor still allows for flat but level isn't going to happen...
> level TS's are safer to use...


Another perspective on the pro's of having a level TS table...

My shop is in my garage. Usual for a garage slab is to slope from the sides to the center, and from the rear to outside the main door. Used not just for water drainage, but for any gases (such as carbon monoxide) to evac out. A garage is supposedly for cars, right?

Then there is my panel saw, which takes up major real estate. I have it leveled while against wall. It is well over 1300 lbs. Because of other things in the shop, to break down sheets, I have to move it out from the wall.

I used to use my pallet jack to move it. It now has a mobility kit to move it. I can move it back to where it was, by paint marks I put on the floor. I can't leave it out from the wall, because then it makes it hard to get around the saw. So I move it back against the wall.

Why level? It has many accessories that I put on and take off... Positive stop miter tables, extension tables, outrigger table with a swing support arm... that attaches to the sliding table. An outfeed table. 53" of table on the right side of the blade... Lots of jigs and fences. It being level lets me change over my tooling and check my angles and tune quicker and easier.

Beyond that, it's always nice to have a dependably level spot that I can work and check other things off of.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Exactly what James said, Hank.
It's the Building code. I haven't done one for several years so I could be wrong, but I seem to remember it being 1/4" per 1' of run.
Not insurmountable but rather a nuisance. 
What I was getting at was the need to know what _your_ slope is, and plan accordingly with your shop build. The biggest problem is not really being able to rotate rolling carts, once you get the to the right elevation and levelled. If you turn them 90deg. they're way out of level. 
As I say you can live with it, you just have to be aware and plan for it.
My other point was that it's really helpful to have (at least)_one dead flat absolutely level surface_ to use as a reference for other tools and such, ie your cast iron TS table


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## jim.scrollsaws (Oct 30, 2014)

Hey guys, 

I'm new here, so I'm not yet familiarized with the protocols and the community, but I came across your post, Michael, and have to say you're off to a great start! 
Looking forward to hearing more about those projects you're planning on starting! 
Cheers!


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Exactly what James said, Hank.
> It's the Building code. I haven't done one for several years so I could be wrong, but I seem to remember it being 1/4" per 1' of run.
> Not insurmountable but rather a nuisance.
> What I was getting at was the need to know what _your_ slope is, and plan accordingly with your shop build. The biggest problem is not really being able to rotate rolling carts, once you get the to the right elevation and levelled. If you turn them 90deg. they're way out of level.
> ...


My recollection is that 1/8" per foot meets most codes but I could be behind the times. At 1/4" per foot your are correct to ask about it because that would make a difference. A table saw with an extension with legs and a mobile base turned the 90 degrees that you mentioned could be close to 1 1/2" out of level. That's a lot. OK, you adequately satisfied my curiosity about asking about the pitch. Thanks. :laugh:


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Now you've got _me_ curious, Hank...I'm going to check mine out (1/8" or 1/4" per ft.)


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Why is an unleveled table saw dangerous to use? Why does it matter so long as it doesn't rock?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Robert; it probably isn't if it's just sitting there. But when you start adding unbalanced weight to any machine it's stability changes if it isn't perpendicular. (I'm thinking here of putting something like an 8'- 6x6 on it to dado it, for example.)
Machines are _supposed_ to be bolted down, but I'm guessing that's pretty rare amongst hobbyists(?)...
I'd bolt my floor mounted DP down if I wasn't absolutely sure that it's going to be moved on occasion. It is at least levelled. (*guilty look*)


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

My shop is in a 100 year old garage. The floor isn't level but it it's not too far off. I have a wixey which says it's about 0.7 degrees off. I think that works out to a bit more than 1/8" per foot. Not much and I just don't worry about it. It would take a huge amount of weight to unbalance my TS and planer.

The wixey is great because you can set relative zero and measure from there.


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## flitemedic13 (Oct 8, 2014)

nice saw!! I am debating which new TS saw to get and this 715 hybrid is one ive been contemplating....quick questions
1. Is the 2HP motor good to go on slicing through 8/4 stock decently (assuming using a premium blade) and
2. How easy/difficult was the squaring of the blade since the trunnions are mounted to the top and not the cabinet

Just curious on those 2 items since thats what was holding me back from making the plunge on the 715...i thought about stockpiling more $$ and getting the grizzly 1023 or 690 but if the saw is good to go on those 2 things it seems to be a pretty good bang for the buck and the savings could be spent elsewhere, like router extension, etc. thanks in advance, jonathan


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> Robert; it probably isn't if it's just sitting there. But when you start adding unbalanced weight to any machine it's stability changes if it isn't perpendicular. (I'm thinking here of putting something like an 8'- 6x6 on it to dado it, for example.)
> Machines are _supposed_ to be bolted down, but I'm guessing that's pretty rare amongst hobbyists(?)...
> I'd bolt my floor mounted DP down if I wasn't absolutely sure that it's going to be moved on occasion. It is at least levelled. (*guilty look*)


The angle would need to be pretty large to make a piece of wood want to topple over. I think it would be uncomfortable trying to work with a tool that was this tilted. I don't think small angles make much difference to the safety of it all.

Thanks,


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## flitemedic13 (Oct 8, 2014)

Any owners of the 715p or the original poster have any insight to my question above, thanks in advance. Jonathan


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

DaninVan said:


> Robert; it probably isn't if it's just sitting there. But when you start adding unbalanced weight to any machine it's stability changes if it isn't perpendicular. (I'm thinking here of putting something like an 8'- 6x6 on it to dado it, for example.)
> (*guilty look*)


Dan, if someones going to run an 8' 6x6 thru a tablesaw without additional support, they are going to have way bigger issues than whether or not the saw is perfectly level!:sad:


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

Duane, you're correct, but having a bigger problem doesn't make the smaller problem go away. It's getting off the track for this post a bit, but these situations are often behind safety issues. Someone will fix 2-3 problems but overlook another in the process and that was the issue that hurt them.

Darryl


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Is my face red...
When I put the saw onto its base about a decade ago, I placed the mobile base perpendicular to the blade. To clarify, the two levelling screws are parallel to the blade. the two rolling wheels are opposite them. The saw is set up so that the material runs off into the shop...basically uphill. One of the wheels is downhill from the other, with no way of levelling them. This I just discovered 10 years later! (It now has a shingle under the low side.)
All this time I'd assumed the outfeed table was out of level; I never actually did anything about it.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

darsev said:


> Duane, you're correct, but having a bigger problem doesn't make the smaller problem go away. It's getting off the track for this post a bit, but these situations are often behind safety issues. Someone will fix 2-3 problems but overlook another in the process and that was the issue that hurt them.
> 
> Darryl


Darryl, I agree with you on not fixing all safety issues. But unless that saw is setting on the side of a hill, I still say that being level isn't really an issue. A drill press, or even a lathe? Yes, could be an issue! But for non-level to be an issue with a table saw, it would have to be seriously out of level or rocking as mentioned above, IMHO. Not having adequate material support IS an issue even IF the saw is level!

Also methinks it's better to fix the big issues, before the niggly ones... again JMHO!

Maybe a bit off topic, but very useful info for a new tablesaw owner!


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