# drawer slides and jigs



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

I've been looking at a lot of jig/machine designs that use some sort of a sliding table (or two). Some of these designs appear to use drawer slides. I can't see how these would be at all accurate. To compensate for this, some of the designs use miter tracks to stabilize but I would think that negates the benefit of the drawer slide (low friction).

What am I missing here? Does a track and drawer slide working together provide enough accuracy for furniture making? The several designs that I've seen are basically ads for plans and I'm reluctant to drop some money just to see how they deal with the slop problem.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

It seems to me how well the jig works would depend on how accurately you installed the drawer slides. The ones I have been installing in our kitchen cabinets have slots so you can make small adjustments horizontal and vertical. Once everything is they way you like, then add additional screws to secure the slide in place.

Heavy duty ball bearing slides are available if needed.

Is this what you are thinking?


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Well, maybe. I guess, I'll just have to give it a try. Maybe the idea is that the slide carries the weight and the slot steadies it enough to have a reasonable degree of accuracy. I'm thinking at least 1/64" is needed. 10 mils would be better.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

There are three things that can happen.
1) I make the drawer exactly the correct width and it works great.
2) I make it a tad too wide and it doesn't fit, or it will fit and drag in the track.
3) I make the drawer a tad too narrow and it is sloppy in the track requiring shims on the cabinet side of the track. That is not a really bad thing. Better to be a little loose than too tight.

I have managed to do all three.


----------



## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

It is installation dependent and with shims you can use up some of the slop.
For 10 bucks, if money is the issue, you can explore the jigification of drawer slides.
I like Accuride and would give them a shot.
Not into testing? Then there are plenty of sophisticated linear slides that have essentially no slop and roll forever. But they start at ~$150.


----------



## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Phil, I have a dewalt cabinet type table saw with the optional sliding table. It uses 2 bearing type drawer slides, one mounted horizontally and one vertically. The cast iron sliding table weighs about 200 lbs. It slides very accurately from one end to the other, and in fact has a tighter tolerance then the miter slot. It would work well if protected from dust. My slides have felt to help wipe the slides as it travels. I have never felt any drag ever and have used it for the last 15 years. I have wondered why more people haven't used the ball bearing type slides. You could mount them parallel and at a slight angle vertically under a platform to take the play out and it should work fine. I say Go for it!


----------



## waynecochran (Aug 2, 2011)

Phil, Matthias Wandel has a video that shows how he takes the slop out of drawer slides. I think it is part of the pantarouter build. His web site is woodgears.ca.


----------



## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I've been using the extruded aluminum miter gauge T slots and their companion inserts. Very close tolerances and the hard anodize coating seems to hold up for a long time. I had tried the Acuride slides, but found the miter gauge extrusions to be superior in accuracy. The "Standart Miter T Bar on this link is the product that I'm referring to, but it's available elsewhere too. T-Track and T-Track Accessories


Charley


----------

