# Router Table Project



## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

Hi Colleges

I am going to build a router table, something that I have not attempted before, but I am comfortable in giving it a go.

Before I start the project I have a few of general questions. Such as;

Is there a perfect table top dimension? I have material to construct a top that could be 800mm x 800mmx 19mm.
I would like to use a “Router Table Insert Kit”?
Is a mitre gauge slot on the top important?
I have read that a mitre slot is not important as a mitre gauge should not be used when using a router with a table?

These are currently my questions that I have there may be other during the project phase.

Many thanks


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*It all depends...*

Hi Lou,

Size depends on what you plan to do with the table.

I have one 406mm X 762mm and one 810mm x 610mm,,,,

I use the smaller one most often and the larger one is table for my ski board...

The smaller one does not have a mitre slot and I do not need one.

Not " should not be used" but rather " not necessary"...

Just my 2cents worth.

Other opinion may vary.


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

Hi James

Thank your for your quick response. I guess my reasoning for the larger size would be for material stability when routing slightly larger pieces.

I would value your comment on the "Router Table Insert" form Carba-Tec I am interested in purchasing. Is the product any good?

please see attached

Many thanks


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Lou,
> 
> Size depends on what you plan to do with the table.
> 
> ...


James that look's like the router work shop table ?? looks just like mine , i built a box under it with a place to put bit's in a slide out piece, mine has the vac. piece also , works very well, also have the 3 fence's also


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Lou,

I would recommend just starting with a table top first. This way you can find out what height works out best for you. My first router table was a kitchen sink cut out with an insert plate in it, and it took forever to find a comforable working height.

As for dimensions, the first determinant is what are you going to be working on? For smaller projects, 18 x 30 is more than ample. For bigger projects you might want a little larger. I have a hybrid of both, I have the oak park top and added an extension.

http://www.routerforums.com/kp91s-gallery/1708-router-table-upgrade.html#post18002

Adding a piece of 1/2 MDF on top it makes a nice auxilliary work table.

I don't have a miter slot, I do have a miter sled. The only time I wished for a miter slot was to have an easier method of using feather boards. Now I just clamp them down.

To wrap up, don't rush out and build a permanent table. Experiment a bit with what you think might work and find out what doesn't.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Lou,
> 
> Size depends on what you plan to do with the table.
> 
> ...


James does the miter slot not also double as a place to hold feather boards though ,so it could be beneficial to have ?

Lou after studying this and running this same scenario several times in my head I've come to the conclusion to order an Incra top and fence and build the bottom myself .The Incra does loose a lot real estate with there adjuster system so I'm going with the 17/43" table top . 
I see there's free shipping starting today at Incra !


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

kapeller said:


> Hi James
> 
> I would value your comment on the "Router Table Insert" form Carba-Tec I am interested in purchasing. Is the product any good?


That looks like the one from Grizzly for $13.00 . Not sure on shipping.

Al


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

boogalee said:


> That looks like the one from Grizzly for $13.00 . Not sure on shipping.
> 
> Al



Hi Al, yes it is the same plate, but cost $A42 here......:angry:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

kapeller said:


> Hi James
> 
> Thank your for your quick response. I guess my reasoning for the larger size would be for material stability when routing slightly larger pieces.
> 
> ...


Hi Lou, I have 2 of these plates for my larger table, both drilled for the Triton router.

I have no problem with them at all, however I remove the router and insert plate from the table when finished and store the router right way up in my shed.

That way I have not had any problem with sagging. I have not heard of anyone else using the insert plate that has experienced sagging.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Yes Del, it is the Oak Park table. My go to table.


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

kp91 said:


> Lou,
> 
> I would recommend just starting with a table top first. This way you can find out what height works out best for you. My first router table was a kitchen sink cut out with an insert plate in it, and it took forever to find a comforable working height.
> 
> ...



Hi Doug

Thanks you for your feedback much appreciated.


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Lou, I have 2 of these plates for my larger table, both drilled for the Triton router.
> 
> I have no problem with them at all, however I remove the router and insert plate from the table when finished and store the router right way up in my shed.
> 
> That way I have not had any problem with sagging. I have not heard of anyone else using the insert plate that has experienced sagging.


Hi James

Thank you for your feedback also. I will take your advice about removing the plate and router when not using it.

Have a great day


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Al, yes it is the same plate, but cost $A42 here......:angry:


James

You guys are getting screwed.

Al


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## Peter Harrison45 (Aug 26, 2013)

*cost and taxes*



boogalee said:


> James
> 
> You guys are getting screwed.
> 
> Al


Yes We Australians get screwed everywhich way


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

Peter Harrison45 said:


> Yes We Australians get screwed everywhich way


At least the Carba tech is available in Oz, and the grizzly in the USA. In the UK we have neither, and if we did they would probably cost the same as my home mortgage :blink:


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

vindaloo said:


> At least the Carba tech is available in Oz, and the grizzly in the USA. In the UK we have neither, and if we did they would probably cost the same as my home mortgage :blink:


I went and purchased the insert plate form Carba-Tec today and got a 10% discount as I am a member of the Monash Men's Shed.

So over the weekend I will start the router project.


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

Ah, following my last, the Trend plate in the uk is equivalent to $65 US, and the UJK from axminster is $161 US

And the UK government wonders why so few kids make anything anymore. The exorbitant prices are usual with anything to do with making things.


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

Hi Angie



vindaloo said:


> Ah, following my last, the Trend plate in the uk is equivalent to $65 US, and the UJK from axminster is $161 US
> 
> And the UK government wonders why so few kids make anything anymore. The exorbitant prices are usual with anything to do with making things.


I agree the same can be said for down under as well. Some items are over the top.

Have a great day


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

del schisler said:


> James that look's like the router work shop table ?? looks just like mine , i built a box under it with a place to put bit's in a slide out piece, mine has the vac. piece also , works very well, also have the 3 fence's also


Getting back to you post, Del.

I have not made any cabinet as I can just fold it up and put it in the shed....


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

Hi James

In one of your posts to a different question you provided a link to "fitting insert plates".

Is it possible to provide that link again?

I am unable to locate it.

Many thanks


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> James does the miter slot not also double as a place to hold feather boards though ,so it could be beneficial to have ?
> 
> Lou after studying this and running this same scenario several times in my head I've come to the conclusion to order an Incra top and fence and build the bottom myself .The Incra does loose a lot real estate with there adjuster system so I'm going with the 17/43" table top .
> I see there's free shipping starting today at Incra !


I hope my posting helped with your decision. You will be very happy with this set up if you do a lot of custom jointery, drawers, cabinet doors, molding, etc.

A large table top will also provide an excuse to build a really large storage cabinet to set your router table top on.

I look forward to your project posting! I am looking for a score on wood to finish my drawers. I have decided to go with Maple and Padauk.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Lou,

try this link

http://www.routerforums.com/table-m...economy-table-top-install-mounting-plate.html

or this.

How To Install Router Plate In Table - YouTube


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> I hope my posting helped with your decision. You will be very happy with this set up if you do a lot of custom jointery, drawers, cabinet doors, molding, etc.
> 
> A large table top will also provide an excuse to build a really large storage cabinet to set your router table top on.
> 
> I look forward to your project posting! I am looking for a score on wood to finish my drawers. I have decided to go with Maple and Padauk.


Yes your RT was a deal breaker lol,as I really like the way you built it , very impressive IMO . Gotta google torsion box so I can build it the same way . Not really sure how a torsion box is normally done . I'm assuming the pieces interlock to each other after being notched with a dado blade?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Yes your RT was a deal breaker lol,as I really like the way you built it , very impressive IMO . Gotta google torsion box so I can build it the same way . Not really sure how a torsion box is normally done . I'm assuming the pieces interlock to each other after being notched with a dado blade?


In the old days, I would dado and have the runners going both in the horizontal and vertical directions.

Now a days, with today's glues, I do not go to all that trouble. As long as the pieces are glued on all four sides to the surfaces you are trying to keep flat, daddos and vertical runners are overkill for a router table. I use plywood on its edge for supports. It is extremely resistant to bending on its edge and once glued, is not going any where. We are not talking about all that much weight for a router and lift.

If this was a giant table saw platform, I might consider the additional work and supports, but not for a table that is barely 8 ft 2.

I do suggest cutting ALL your runners at the same time, once you get your table saw dialed in to the right height. You want them all to be the same height. I went with a two inch depth, top and bottom.

I have stood on my table top and bottom and I weigh close to 200LBs and it did not even budge.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> In the old days, I would dado and have the runners going both in the horizontal and vertical directions.
> 
> Now a days, with today's glues, I do not go to all that trouble. As long as the pieces are glued on all four sides to the surfaces you are trying to keep flat, daddos and vertical runners are overkill for a router table. I use plywood on its edge for supports. It is extremely resistant to bending on its edge and once glued, is not going any where. We are not talking about all that much weight for a router and lift.
> 
> ...


Ok I assumed it was like this 




But the way I'm reading it you can just make long pieces and then all the inside short ones and lots of glue!


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Do any of you guys use the router lift from American Woodworker Mag? Lifts of this type make hanging lifts and routers on plates obsolete. The lift is very easy to build and can be done with parts from the box store for pennies on the dollar.

http://www.americanwoodworker.com/b.../2009/04/21/the-aw-shop-made-router-lift.aspx


I have been using this lift (with improvements) for over 2 years. 

Al


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> Do any of you guys use the router lift from American Woodworker Mag? Lifts of this type make hanging lifts and routers on plates obsolete. The lift is very easy to build and can be done with parts from the box store for pennies on the dollar.
> 
> AW Extra 8/9/12 - Shop-Made Router Lift - Woodworking Projects - American Woodworker
> 
> ...


That's actually a very interesting concept . Love the idea of the table lifting up to expose the router for bit changes and the fact that there's no additional weight on the table from the lift and router. 
Not something I'm capable of doing but interesting just the same


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

Hi 

Following from my original post I am at the stage with my router table build where I need to fit the “Insert Plate” to my table.

I have a question.

Is there a preferred or an ideal location for the insert plate on a table?


I have attached a drawing of my table top, *Note* it is not to scale.

This will show what I am asking.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

kapeller said:


> Hi
> 
> Following from my original post I am at the stage with my router table build where I need to fit the “Insert Plate” to my table.
> 
> ...


IMO front and back should be on the long side (800mm)
The I would place the plate to the back were the green or purple are
Just my opinion


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

I am not sure what direction your fence will be running in and that will be a factor in positioning it. And, what type of fence you are using.

I like where my lift plate is. Close to the front edge of the table so that I can feed from the right and discharge to the left, while standing at the front of the table. You have to make sure there is room for a coping sled at the front and that your fence will reach the center of the bit when placed.

My router is 215mm from the front edge and 190mm from the side edge. (each edge of the router plate)

Please look at my table so you know how mine is oriented.

If you decide to use the fence running the length of your table, just keep my measurements in mind.

Basically, you want to be able to fit the largest piece of wood your fence will accommodate on the table while still having good access from the edge of the table and still get a coping sled on the table for raised panels, stile and rail work.


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

Semipro said:


> IMO front and back should be on the long side (800mm)
> The I would place the plate to the back were the green or purple are
> Just my opinion


Hi John

Thank you for your advice. :thank_you2:


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> I am not sure what direction your fence will be running in and that will be a factor in positioning it. And, what type of fence you are using.
> 
> I like where my lift plate is. Close to the front edge of the table so that I can feed from the right and discharge to the left, while standing at the front of the table. You have to make sure there is room for a coping sled at the front and that your fence will reach the center of the bit when placed.
> 
> ...



Hi Brad Thanks for your input. You have provided some sound advice to consider. :thank_you2:

PS I will be making my own fence.


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

Hi All

I forgot to raise another question.

The material I have for my top is 32 mm thick. Is this to thick by normal standards?

Many thanks


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

kapeller said:


> Hi All
> 
> I forgot to raise another question.
> 
> ...



No, my table from Timbecom is that thickness, I believe.

Product Details


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

jw2170 said:


> No, my table from Timbecom is that thickness, I believe.
> 
> Product Details


Thanks James I will go ahead and finish my top. :thank_you2:


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

kapeller said:


> Hi All
> 
> I forgot to raise another question.
> 
> ...


I think mine is 40 mm so no, 32mm is just fine. Will help prevent deflection over time.

Keep us posted on your progress. We love pictures.


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> I think mine is 40 mm so no, 32mm is just fine. Will help prevent deflection over time.
> 
> Keep us posted on your progress. We love pictures.



Hi Brad

Thanks for the information and yes I will post some photos when finished


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

Hi

I have another question in relation to router table that I am building.

Where in Australia, more importantly in Melbourne, can I by a "Router Table Power Tool Safety ON OFF Paddle Switch"

Many thanks

See attachment.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

kapeller said:


> Hi
> 
> I have another question in relation to router table that I am building.
> 
> ...


electrical supply house???
tool store???
woodworkers supply???
Amazon...


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> electrical supply house???
> tool store???
> woodworkers supply???
> Amazon...


Thanks for the information, but I guess I was looking for a suppliers name. I have not been able to locate a supplier via a Google search.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

got yellow pages and a phone???

I typed in - ON OFF Paddle Switch, AU - and got a bunch of hits...
but since I don't know my way around your neck of the woods the listings were impossible to relate to..
I understand Australia to be a petty big place...


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## kapeller (Apr 8, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> got yellow pages and a phone???
> 
> I typed in - ON OFF Paddle Switch, AU - and got a bunch of hits...
> but since I don't know my way around your neck of the woods the listings were impossible to relate to..
> I understand Australia to be a petty big place...


Hi Stick

Thanks I will try your idea.:yes4:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> electrical supply house???
> tool store???
> woodworkers supply???
> Amazon...


Stick I don't think they gots an Amazon in Australia . They tried to get a warehouse there but couldn't get past the kangaroos . I hear they can be quite vicious during there mating season

James I would email these guys . Maybe it's just not posted on there site but maybe they have them? 

http://www.carbatec.com.au/storage-shop-accessories_c290


Update : how do you guys buy anything over there? I can't believe how limited my google search was . I swear there's more options in Honolulu


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