# Removing price labels



## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

What is the best approach to removing those intrusive, gummy, price labels on wood? 

I found a small sheet of Birch plywood with a great grain pattern, right in the middle of which was one of those big price labels that would not peel. 

Sounds like a great opportunity for one of Stick's brews.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JFPNCM said:


> What is the best approach to removing those intrusive, gummy, price labels on wood?
> 
> I found a small sheet of Birch plywood with a great grain pattern, right in the middle of which was one of those big price labels that would not peel.
> 
> Sounds like a great opportunity for one of Stick's brews.


easy on the heat... 
hair dryer - heat gun may cook the wood and it will show up in the finish...
turps for the residue....


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## GregLittleWoodworks (Dec 9, 2014)

I use Goof Off.. bought it at Lowes


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I used a type of really soft rubber wheel that fits in your drill and is specifically designed to remove pin stripping off of vehicles . I think it was from Napa


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> I used a type of really soft rubber wheel that fits in your drill and is specifically designed to remove pin stripping off of vehicles . I think it was from Napa


an eraser...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> an eraser...


Well it was a kinda yellow color wheel . Worked very well without damaging the paint , well that is if your not a total moron lol


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Well it was a kinda yellow color wheel . Worked very well without damaging the paint , well that is if your not a total moron lol


body shop guy I know used one in front of me...
he called it an eraser...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> body shop guy I know used one in front of me...
> he called it an eraser...


I suspect you called it . Was many moons ago when I bought it . They wear out fast too


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Eucalyptus oil....


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## Murtu01 (Mar 9, 2014)

I use Benzine to get the sticky labels off anything - not sure if it will damage the natural oils in the wood though.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Lacquer thinner works for me.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

WD40 or Goof off on anything BUT wood, a well turned card scrapper on woods...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Just about any petroleum base solvent will work. However, some are more invasive then others. I recommend and use plain Mineral Spirits. Mostly to remove scroll saw patterns from my wood; enough to thoroughly wet the paper and degrade the adhesive, wait a few minutes and the patterns peel right off. It doesn't harm the wood or effect any finish. A quick wipe removes any residue and evaporates quickly. 

WD-40 works great to soften sticker adheasives, but I NEVER use it on wood. only metals, plastics or similar materials.

I try and stay away from things like Naphtha, Acetone, etc. Lacquer thinners are in this group...too aggressive. They are a last resort to remove stubborn residue. If I do use them, it is on and wiped right back off. 

Hope this helps.

Bill


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## swarfmaker (Aug 27, 2012)

I use dry-cleaning / stainremover fluid: Perchloroethylene, to great effect. lacking that, Benzene / zippo lighter fluid also works well


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Heat gun, applied lightly, just enough to loosen the label. Then go down to any dummy that applies labels to the middle of the finished side of plywood and fry their A$$! They do the same to poster boards, which I use in my courses and used to be able to use both sides.


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## john60 (Aug 30, 2014)

I agree with Bill. Mineral Spirts


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Rubbing alcohol or Acetone? No oily residue from either of those.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Rubbing alcohol or Acetone? No oily residue from either of those.


I haven't seen Benzine here since it was declared a carcinogenic years ago.

Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Went looking for Xylene in December...paint stores looked at me like I was a Neanderthal. Found it at my local lumberyard, in the fibreglass section. If I hadn't asked a clerk, I wouldn't even have thought of _looking_ for fibreglass section...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TwoSkies57 said:


> WD40 or Goof off on anything BUT wood, a well turned card scrapper on woods...


you got that right...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

swarfmaker said:


> I use dry-cleaning / stainremover fluid: Perchloroethylene, to great effect. lacking that, Benzene / zippo lighter fluid also works well


Trichloroethylene and Perchloroethylene are very toxic and easily absorbed into the skin... and easily inhaled damaging the lungs. Trich never leaves the bloodstream once it is there. It can cause all kinds of health problems. Naphtha (Benzene) is not quite as bad but still can be a health hazard. (I absorbed a lot of this from overfilled Zippo lighters in my youth).

I would caution that if you insist on using Trich or Perch that you use the proper gloves and a good chemical cartridge respirator, or a VERY well ventilated area.

I won't preach any further then this...

There are much safer alternatives available.

Bill


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> ! They do the same to poster boards, which I use in my courses and used to be able to use both sides.


marketing knows this...
that guy is getting paid to put the sticker where it is...


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## beemor (Feb 29, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> easy on the heat...
> hair dryer - heat gun may cook the wood and it will show up in the finish...
> turps for the residue....


Hair dryer but set it to medium heat - only works if the glue is that "sticky" stuff. 
If it's the "dry" stuff , dab the paper with a little water and let is sit until loose.


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## swarfmaker (Aug 27, 2012)

schnewj said:


> Trichloroethylene and Perchloroethylene are very toxic and easily absorbed into the skin... and easily inhaled damaging the lungs. Trich never leaves the bloodstream once it is there. It can cause all kinds of health problems. Naphtha (Benzene) is not quite as bad but still can be a health hazard. (I absorbed a lot of this from overfilled Zippo lighters in my youth).
> 
> I would caution that if you insist on using Trich or Perch that you use the proper gloves and a good chemical cartridge respirator, or a VERY well ventilated area.
> 
> ...


I fully agree with you.I use a veriety of chemicals for different purposes, and always use protective measures.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

swarfmaker said:


> I fully agree with you.I use a veriety of chemicals for different purposes, and always use protective measures.



Personal anecdote; Years ago I worked for W. R. Case and Sons Cutlery. While going to college I worked in the finishing department as a High Speed Buffer. My main job was the polishing of the blades in pocket knives. In the department we had a Trichloroethylene dip tank to degrease and clean the knives before final inspection and packaging.

The tanks were heated on the bottom, and a water jacket at the top half essentially created a thermal barrier to prevent the fumes from escaping. Every once in awhile the tank would overheat and go BOOM! Not a real explosion mind you, but the thermal barrier would fail and Trich fumes would fill the work area.

We immediately had to cover the knives, which were in long wooded trays, to prevent the trich from condensing onto the steel. I have seen the blades form a solid red rust covering on the naked steel within 2-5 minutes. 

If they were left for more than a hour without being rebuffed they would pit and had to be scrapped. 

If Trich could do that to steel, think what it will do to your lungs.

Bill


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

schnewj said:


> Personal anecdote; Years ago I worked for W. R. Case and Sons Cutlery. While going to college I worked in the finishing department as a High Speed Buffer. My main job was the polishing of the blades in pocket knives. In the department we had a Trichloroethylene dip tank to degrease and clean the knives before final inspection and packaging.
> 
> The tanks were heated on the bottom, and a water jacket at the top half essentially created a thermal barrier to prevent the fumes from escaping. Every once in awhile the tank would overheat and go BOOM! Not a real explosion mind you, but the thermal barrier would fail and Trich fumes would fill the work area.
> 
> ...


That is scary stuff.
Herb


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

I use a putty knife lightly to remove the paper.
Then I switch to paint thinner on a paper towel to remove the glue.
So far no discoloration of the wood and clean staining after sanding.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

I'm in the process of installing new (cheep!!) hollow core slab doors on the second floor since the previous owners kids must have used them for either kick ball practice or 'fine art' displays with yards of scotch tape. All but one of the new ones, Jeld-Wen must have used the most aggressive sick-um labels ever produced by man. I ended up with a heat gun on low along with a sharpened (but not too sharp) 1" flexible putty knife just to peel those labels. That stick-um mostly came off but the remaining goo was removed with some 70% rubbing alcohol after trying mineral spirits. The mineral spirits just seemed to turn it into a gooey globs. As far as personal protection - nitrile gloves (Harbor Freight) and a fan, but those gloves will soften and tear so a pair per door at least will be needed. Automotive paint grade thinners (that I have) - strong stuff that would require, IMO, organic vapor respirators as it is quite toxic.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I use white spirits, it doesn't leave a stain on wood or MDF.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> easy on the heat...
> hair dryer - heat gun may cook the wood and it will show up in the finish...
> turps for the residue....


As I had previously used the hair dryer approach to remove adhesive sand paper that was my first approach here. The label came off easily and a quick swipe with the turp removed the remaining adhesive. Thanks Stick.

All other ideas were relevant and will be stored away for future consideration, particularly the "eraser".

Thanks to all.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*It's Clear To Me*

Harry; White Spirits N.A. version...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'd rather drink your than mine!


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## APridham (Apr 7, 2015)

I use synthetic oil or nail polish remover whivh has acetone.


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

I use Goof Off. It works ok.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I use bacon grease, smells better.

Herb


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## old coasty (Aug 15, 2014)

How did bacon get into this thread?


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

old coasty said:


> How did bacon get into this thread?


Bob, there is ALWAYS room for bacon.... :smile:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

old coasty said:


> How did bacon get into this thread?


why not...
it covers a lot of bases...

and Herb put it there...


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## Loonboy (Sep 2, 2016)

come here to learn some life tips.
thanks.


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## JimSC (Apr 17, 2014)

I purchased nine nice sheets of birch plywood a few weeks back. The sticker guy must not have been a woodworker as he put the stickers (not one, but two) on the good side. Why not the other side?.... Told the manager and all he said was "that is the way we identify the produce". He did't get it either.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Heat if its on a side that won't show. The kind of residue varies, some don't penetrate and can be rubbed off, others need a solvent. Try the rubbing first.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

heat...
eraser...
mineral spirits...


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## stephentyler (May 1, 2017)

beemor said:


> Hair dryer but set it to medium heat - only works if the glue is that "sticky" stuff.
> If it's the "dry" stuff , dab the paper with a little water and let is sit until loose.


Thanks, that was helpful.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Foil type I use a hair drier and paper ones white spirits.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I use Goof-Off, followed by a light sanding. Once you get one edge of the label free, wetting the parting line with more Goof-Off as it peels free will speed the separation process.

Charley


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