# How much would you pay to ensure your ten fingers remain with you



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I’m still not over the euphoria caused by my “discovery” of the MUSCLECHUCK and I’m excited in a different way now that I have “discovered” a safety tool that appears to have been around for a long time but neither any of my many friends or of course myself had heard of it. I refer to the GRR-Ripper, now, like all woodworkers I have bought and made countless push sticks and feather boards over the years but accidents still occur. I can honestly say that in the over sixty years that I have been woodworking I have never felt as safe when using my table saw, jointer, router table and band-saw as I have been in the few weeks that I’ve had my GRR-Ripper GR200Y.
I had intended to produce a pdf with heaps of photographs but the superbly produced DVD by MicroJig and the several well made videos on Youtube would have made my effort rather amateurish.
The GRR-Ripper can be configured in numerous ways especially with the addition of various available accessories. It did take me a while to get the hang of quickly changing from one configuration to another but like any new tool there is a learning curve. I’m certain that two GRR-Rippers are better than one and that is probably how I’ll end up.
In conclusion, I consider the GRR-Ripper to be an essential safety device which should not only be in every woodworking shop but used regularly. Had this been invented 20, 30 or more years ago there would, I’m sure, be many, many woodworkers around now with all ten fingers. Here are links to GRR-Ripper videos:
GRR-Ripper® System Presented by Woodcraft - YouTube

Tricky Cuts on a Table Saw - Micro Jig GRR-Ripper - YouTube

The Micro Jig Grr-ripper - YouTube


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

A little pricy but I cannot afford to lose any more fingers. A year ago next week I lost half of 2 fingers on my right (predominant hand) hand. It was not in the workshop but gone just the same. I will seriously consider buying one of these as soon as I get over my recent carpal tunnel surgery. : Thanks for the tip. 
Does the Handle Bridge (GRHB-010) that they sell for $15.99 come with the unit? Looking at the picture in the Rockler catalog it does but it is listed in the accessory list, maybe that is a replacement? Seriously interested!


----------



## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Harry
I have own a pair of micro grr-rippers for a number of years, my recommendation this should be the first tool that is bought for your shop use mine daily. One thing when you need to cut a number of thin strips normal you would cut them to left side of blade move the fence and cut another not with grr-ripper just set the fence and run a as many as you need. ( I highly recommend this GREAT PRODUCT )
Ps Harry did not know they made a 1/8" side leg but will order one today

Bob the bridge handle is a add on ( this is not pricey this the best and cheapest tool you will every own
If want to save forget the bridge handle and buy the 1/8" leg


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

I have a upcoming project to make a display case for a large model car for my grandson and I want to use oak for the edges and acrylic sheets. Will need several small strips 1/2" x 1/2" for the corners and have been trying to figure how to cut this and not risk any fingers, already short 2 on right hand and I believe this is the answer.  Just can't envision how I would cut those strips without moving the fence. Maybe after I get the Grrr-Ripper I will be able to figure it out.


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

Just watched the video on u-tube and now I get it.


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

I second your comments, Harry. I've been using a GRR-Ripper for several years and find it essential at both the table saw and router table. It seems pricey until you actually try one and realize you can now work with more confidence. It has been one of my better and more-often-used purchases.


----------



## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

I have had one of those gadgets for about a year now and am really happy with how it works. Before I get much more involved with another major project will order another along with that new 1/8" leg


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

Just bit the bullet and ordered the GR-200 Grr-ripper 200. Decided it was a must have.


----------



## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Good for you Bob, the problem with tools if you have one you make the assumption that everyone know about it. I am glad that Harry bought this tool up so that everyone can work safe. As for making your 1/2" pieces plane a board to 1/2" thick the set the fence to 1/2" and with your gripper run it thought till you have all you need. If do not have a planer rip to 1/2" then flip it on edge with your gripper run it thought again good luck


----------



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Is there no end to list of "have to have" items that one needs in the woodworking shop. The item in this thread sure does look like another one of those items. I am currently using the magnetic feather board that holds the stock tight down to the table and the micro splitter to keep the parts separated to prevent kick back, until now I thought that with enough "being very careful with the cut" that I was doing about all that I could do to keep all of my fingers. Harry, you have me thinking, that's for sure.

Jerry


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

John, I did not order the bridge handle yet, will wait & see. But I did order the 1/8" spacer.


----------



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

I'm not going to argue about the safety issue of the gripper, but, just something in the demo that I noticed and wonder if anybody else thought the same thing that I did and was that the person putting on the demo placed the push stice close to the fence. I always place the push stick as far to the left as I can, just enough to not go into the blade, to some extent this tends to push the far right corner against the fence during the cut. This along with the hold down pressure of the magnetic feather board and the micro splitter has worked well so far, but, and I will be the first to say it, an accident can happen anytime with any device. Obviously I'm struggling with the decision to keep spending money or not, as I said earlier, there has to be an end to this sometime. By the way, on that ocassional time that I need to make a really thin cut, I make the cut on the left side of the blade not against the fence and yes I do have to advance the fence from cut to cut, but with Incra system that advancement is easy and accurate. Just passing time while I'm sitting here under the A/C while it is almost a hundred degrees outside and to hot to be in the shop, just humor me and try to understand this old guy's reason for rambling on like I do.

Any comments about my logic would be greatly appreciated.
n
Jerry


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Yes, i've only used mine a few times now, but it is great. Yes, I could make push sticks and all, but this thing is so handy, and great. Grrreat as Tony the Tiger would say. Very pleased I have mine.


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

Like Mark on "Shipping Wars" says "more money, more money, more money.


----------



## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Jerry
You got a few years on me but not much, I have 9 grand children but only one grandson and when I go he will have a great shop for a young man so when i buy something It is really for me to use till I am gone. I make it a point to go to the shop everyday even if it is only for a little while
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to slide in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy S--t, what a ride!"


----------



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Semipro said:


> Jerry
> You got a few years on me but not much, I have 9 grand children but only one grandson and when I go he will have a great shop for a young man so when i buy something It is really for me to use till I am gone. I make it a point to go to the shop everyday even if it is only for a little while
> Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to slide in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "Holy S--t, what a ride!"


John,
For the most part I sure do agree with you, but, here comes the rub, because I have been informed that we are not to discuss politics or region on this forum, I very tactfully would like to say that you are touching on one of those taboo points if your world view is that the grave is the end, for me, it's the beginning. Now don't scold me to hard Mike, but our friend John started it this time. I sure do like his plans for his grandson and bet that they have a great time together. Thanks for the infor about you and your plans for that little guy, how old is he now. And please don't take my remark wrong, it's just it is so important to me that sometimes I just have to say it.

Jerry


----------



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Harry, I bought one of those when they first came out years ago. I've had it so long it never occurred to me to mention it to anybody. It's just a natural part of my shop now. You know, just one of those things you are so used to you don't even think about it.


----------



## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Harry, It seems that you definitely have a knack for pointing out great safety tips. Anytime I can do something to make my work safer - it is a smart move. For this reason, there are thousands of products out there that make huge claims of safety. Fortunately, this is a product that is both practical and has stood the test of time. I am sure that you have seen dozens of methods to increase tablesaw, etc. safety, but for you to endorse this one speaks VOLUMES to me - and I am sure many others will agree.

Also, knowing what a proponent of the Metric System that you are (and I agree), it would REALLY BE BAD for a metric guy to not be able to count to 10!

Thanks again,
Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

People often point out that they think using the Grr-Ripper between the fence and the blade is a bad idea. The truth of the matter is it is a great idea. The leg that is between the fence and the blade has the green grip material on it. It holds the work down to the table and against the fence. It also works to prevent the wood from closing the cut gap.


----------



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

I probably just missed it, but how high can the blade be so that the gripper will still work. In other words what is the limit on thck the stock can be that you cut with the item?

Jerry


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> I probably just missed it, but how high can the blade be so that the gripper will still work. In other words what is the limit on thck the stock can be that you cut with the item?
> 
> Jerry


Jerry, I don't recall how much actual height is available on the gripper, but it is a non-issue. The gripper rides ON TOP of the wood being cut. Since you would normally only have the blade extended about a saw-tooth height above the wood, there is plenty of clearance in the gripper "tunnel".


----------



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Gaffboat said:


> Jerry, I don't recall how much Iheight is available on the gripper, but it is a non-issue. The gripper rides ON TOP of Iwood being cut. Since you would normally only have the blade extended about a saw-tooth height above the wood, there is plenty of clearance in the gripper "tunnel".


In other words, I I need to rip a 2.5" thick piece of lumber the gripper will handle the cut just fine, right? Few of us seldom need to rip lumber that thick of course.

Jerry


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> In other words, I I need to rip a 2.5" thick piece of lumber the gripper will handle the cut just fine, right? Few of us seldom need to rip lumber that thick of course.
> 
> Jerry


Yep! Thickness is not an issue.


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

I was always told to have half of the teeth protrude through the wood. Is this the general opinion or is this wrong?


----------



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Gaffboat said:


> Jerry, I don't recall how much actual height is available on the gripper, but it is a non-issue. The gripper rides ON TOP of the wood being cut. Since you would normally only have the blade extended about a saw-tooth height above the wood, there is plenty of clearance in the gripper "tunnel".


Oliver,
Of course, can't imagine what I was thinking, sometimes I'm a little slow on the draw, just bare with me, and thanks for straightening me out. 

Jerry


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bob, as long as you are no more than a tooth height above the material it is all good.


----------



## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

tvman44 said:


> I was always told to have half of the teeth protrude through the wood. Is this the general opinion or is this wrong?


Beats me. There seems to be about a bazillion answers to the question. I have always raised the blade so about half the gullet is exposed. I may be doing it wrong. I think the main point is not to have a lot of excess blade exposed.  I'm sure we'll soon get opinions from others.


----------



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Mike said:


> Bob, as long as you are no more than a tooth height above the material it is all good.


Mike,
In regard to the height of the blade above the stock, is this a safety issue alone or does it have anything to do with the way the blade cuts. It seems as though I recall reading someplace that the blade is more efficient if the blade is much higher, but I may have been dreaming. I do so the safety issue of course and will stay with that thinking but, just wanted to ask the question and get your and others thinking on the matter. I suppose that as long the the blade cuts the workpiece all is fine and this question is a moot point.

Jerry


----------



## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

There are two issues that have not been addressed.

Firstly, the demo DVD shows use of the GRR-Ripper without a riving knife. Whilst of course you can't use a standard riving knife with (say) a stacked dado set, I would always use one for a normal rip/x-cut blade. I bought one specially for the purpose, so that I can do blind through cuts with the knife in place.

The more important issue is that if you're using the GRR-Ripper to straddle the blade, and the workpiece is longer than the GRR-Ripper, then as the rear of the GRR-Ripper exits the blade, your wrist is directly above the blade, so if your hand should slip off the GRR-Ripper handle, there is an obvious danger to life and limb. This needs to be borne in mind when using the GRR-Ripper and one should not just rely on the presence of the GRR-Ripper for safety. It will protect to an extent, but common sense and awareness will serve you better!

I also find that the green pad under the GRR-Ripper will tend to slip when cutting MDF, which has a very smooth slippery surface, which doesn't allow for much friction between the green pad and the workpiece.

It's a great product, especially if you fit extension pieces to suit your personal requirement, but it does still have limitations.


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

I was told only half the teeth (gullet) above work piece produces less heat?


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bob, I suspect the the truth is exactly opposite of that. With the teeth higher you expose more of the blade to air which helps cool it. Heat isn't the issue though, safety is.

Alan, have you tried cleaning your GR? Only use the suggested cleaner or your pad can lose it's bond to the plastic.


----------



## Oldmcst (Jun 15, 2013)

WurliTzerwilly said:


> There are two issues that have not been addressed.
> 
> Firstly, the demo DVD shows use of the GRR-Ripper without a riving knife. Whilst of course you can't use a standard riving knife with (say) a stacked dado set, I would always use one for a normal rip/x-cut blade. I bought one specially for the purpose, so that I can do blind through cuts with the knife in place.
> 
> ...


You are absolutely right on Alan:agree:


----------



## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

If you decide to get a Gripper look around to see who has a deal on it at the time. I got mine with the handle bridge and an 1/8" leg for free plus free shipping. So check first before you buy.

I do recommend the gripper!


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'm happy to see that so many members are safety conscious, just a couple of points, as Mike said, the green grip material must be kept clean to ensure maximum grip and if it's possible to retain the splitter then do so but if it isn't possible then the GRR-Ripper if used correctly will keep the gap parallel. As for the blade height, this in my usual humble opinion is not critical, half, one or even two teeth above the height of the wood has never appeared to make any difference to the quality of cut and if it's claimed to be a safety issue, which I doubt, then this is reason enough to use a GRR-Ripper!


----------



## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

Thanks for the cleaning suggestion, but my Grrr-Ripper is almost brand new and hasn't had a chance to lose any surface on the green pad. It's just the laws of physics and MDF takes a lot of pressure to hold it on the face side.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

If you are concerned with pushing the MDF then the tailpiece on the GR is the answer. If you bought one without the tailpiece you can easily make one like Harry did.


----------



## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

It is a great product, that is made in the U.S., near Dayton Ohio. There other products are top-notch as well. I have their splitter on my table saw, and while it is small, it does its job very well, and actually has improved accuracy as well as safety.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I'd like to chime in on this great accessory. Had one for a couple of years now and almost never cut anything without it. Another accessory I like is Rocklers Thin Rip Table Saw Jig. Really nice for cutting lots of thin strips. I also have developed an almost instinctive practice of never getting fingers closer than about 6 inches from the blade--Just can't bring myself to be careless about this. Takes a few extra seconds to work out the safest solution or placement of the GRR Ripper, but I like my fingers.


----------



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

DesertRatTom said:


> I'd like to chime in on this great accessory. Had one for a couple of years now and almost never cut anything without it. Another accessory I like is Rocklers Thin Rip Table Saw Jig. Really nice for cutting lots of thin strips. I also have developed an almost instinctive practice of never getting fingers closer than about 6 inches from the blade--Just can't bring myself to be careless about this. Takes a few extra seconds to work out the safest solution or placement of the GRR Ripper, but I like my fingers.


Tom,
In my opinion you have hit on the best safety tool in the shop and that is what you said, take a few seconds, THINK CONCENTRATE ON WHAT YOU ARE ABOUT TO DO AND KEEP YOUR WITS ABOUT YOU AS YOU EXECUTE THE CUT, the tool in this case is your brain, usining if first and along with the safety items discussed certainly will minimize the chances of an injury. Using the power tools that we use are not playing Bingo, there are no free bee's. We all know this, but we can't over emphasize the fact.

Jerry


----------



## denrobb (Sep 13, 2006)

Do you folks that have this gripper use a riving knife or microsplitter etc. behind the blade? I have one of these grippers but am reluctant to use it because of that. My splitter is part of the blade guard and obviously cannot be used with gripper


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

I don't remember the reason, just that only half of the tooth above the work piece. Thought it may have been heat, but safety trumps that.


----------



## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

tvman44 said:


> I don't remember the reason, just that only half of the tooth above the work piece. Thought it may have been heat, but safety trumps that.


I think it's something also to do with dust clearance and anti-tearout.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Zero clearance insert....*



denrobb said:


> Do you folks that have this gripper use a riving knife or microsplitter etc. behind the blade? I have one of these grippers but am reluctant to use it because of that. My splitter is part of the blade guard and obviously cannot be used with gripper



Den, are you able to make a zero clearance insert plate with a splitter?

There are posts on the forum showing how this can be done.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

WurliTzerwilly said:


> I think it's something also to do with dust clearance and anti-tearout.



That is also what I read.


----------



## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

Jerry Bowen said:


> I'm not going to argue about the safety issue of the gripper, but, just something in the demo that I noticed and wonder if anybody else thought the same thing that I did and was that the person putting on the demo placed the push stice close to the fence. I always place the push stick as far to the left as I can, just enough to not go into the blade, to some extent this tends to push the far right corner against the fence during the cut. This along with the hold down pressure of the magnetic feather board and the micro splitter has worked well so far, but, and I will be the first to say it, an accident can happen anytime with any device. Obviously I'm struggling with the decision to keep spending money or not, as I said earlier, there has to be an end to this sometime. By the way, on that ocassional time that I need to make a really thin cut, I make the cut on the left side of the blade not against the fence and yes I do have to advance the fence from cut to cut, but with Incra system that advancement is easy and accurate. Just passing time while I'm sitting here under the A/C while it is almost a hundred degrees outside and to hot to be in the shop, just humor me and try to understand this old guy's reason for rambling on like I do.
> 
> Any comments about my logic would be greatly appreciated.
> n
> Jerry


Jerry I have been working on table saws and routers for nearly 40years now and I still have them all, fingers that is, not long ago I made a post about the worst accident I have ever seen and it happened when the operator got into a very bad habit, and he then swept his right hand over a raised and running set of scibing saws with disastrous result, I have seen many of these safety first items and if we bought them all then we would have a wall full of them and be busy choosing which one to use at any given time, I don't buy any of them as I work on a different principal, keep your hands away from the saw Neville, Oh and the Router cutters as well, I never put my hands and fingers at any risk and I would be very reluctant to recommend anything else to any wood workers, use hearing protection, use eye protection, keep your workspace clean, keep your tools sharp, and keep your damn fingers away from danger!!! As for me, I like to see the saw as I like to know exactly where it is. NGM


----------



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

neville9999 said:


> Jerry I have been working on table saws and routers for nearly 40years now and I still have them all, fingers that is, not long ago I made a post about the worst accident I have ever seen and it happened when the operator got into a very bad habit, and he then swept his right hand over a raised and running set of scibing saws with disastrous result, I have seen many of these safety first items and if we bought them all then we would have a wall full of them and be busy choosing which one to use at any given time, I don't buy any of them as I work on a different principal, keep your hands away from the saw Neville, Oh and the Router cutters as well, I never put my hands and fingers at any risk and I would be very reluctant to recommend anything else to any wood workers, use hearing protection, use eye protection, keep your workspace clean, keep your tools sharp, and keep your damn fingers away from danger!!! As for me, I like to see the saw as I like to know exactly where it is. NGM


Neville,
Sounds like we are on the same page though I have only been at woodworking for about four years. I appreciate what you are saying and reinforcing my attitude toward the issue of working safelty with the tools in the wood working shop. Good habit can are the best safety tools that we can have.

Jerry


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

curiousgeorge said:


> Harry, I bought one of those when they first came out years ago. I've had it so long it never occurred to me to mention it to anybody. It's just a natural part of my shop now. You know, just one of those things you are so used to you don't even think about it.


As a good friend George I'm surprised and disappointed that you didn't let me into the secret years ago!


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

WurliTzerwilly said:


> Thanks for the cleaning suggestion, but my Grrr-Ripper is almost brand new and hasn't had a chance to lose any surface on the green pad. It's just the laws of physics and MDF takes a lot of pressure to hold it on the face side.


During the weeks that I've had the GRR-Ripper I've cut lots of MDF with no sign of slippage, the plastic pusher in this shot was to keep the MDF moving whilst I moved the position of the GRR-Ripper. As I noted in the opening, I'm sure that I will end up with TWo GRR-Rippers and that problem will be solved safely.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mike said:


> If you are concerned with pushing the MDF then the tailpiece on the GR is the answer. If you bought one without the tailpiece you can easily make one like Harry did.


Here is a shot of the one that I made Mike.


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

The more I read about the Grr-Ripper I think once I receive mine and try it out I will get a 2nd Grr-Ripper even thou most of my work is with short boards I think a 2nd Grr-Ripper to keep the wood moving by leap frogging will be great. I agree with other post about common sense and keeping away from the blade or bit, and anything that helps with that is worth it to me. All I ever use is a push stick but I can see where the Grr-Ripper is so much more functional and easy to use.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

neville9999 said:


> Jerry I have been working on table saws and routers for nearly 40years now and I still have them all, fingers that is, not long ago I made a post about the worst accident I have ever seen and it happened when the operator got into a very bad habit, and he then swept his right hand over a raised and running set of scibing saws with disastrous result, I have seen many of these safety first items and if we bought them all then we would have a wall full of them and be busy choosing which one to use at any given time, I don't buy any of them as I work on a different principal, keep your hands away from the saw Neville, Oh and the Router cutters as well, I never put my hands and fingers at any risk and I would be very reluctant to recommend anything else to any wood workers, use hearing protection, use eye protection, keep your workspace clean, keep your tools sharp, and keep your damn fingers away from danger!!! As for me, I like to see the saw as I like to know exactly where it is. NGM


I don't disagree with a single word in your post Neville BUT, because woodworkers are humans and humans do make mistakes and have lapses of concentration, especially as we grow older, I firmly believe that the GRR-Ripper keeps fingers well away from blades and cutters especially for hobbyists who are not using the power tools most of everyday as a professional woodworker does and so what becomes automatic with such a person doesn't do so with part time hobbyists. I therefore ask the question again, what price do you place on your fingers guys.


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

Does anyone have the Micro Jig GRR-Ripper Handle Bridge? I can't figure where it would mount with the handle that came on the GR-200 or if I would even need it, or is that just a replacement?
Received my GR-200 yesterday and watched the included video DVD last night and impressed with all it can do. Thinking about a 2nd GR-200.


----------



## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Bob
Here is a picture it just allows you to skew the handle for more comfortable positions


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

tvman44 said:


> Does anyone have the Micro Jig GRR-Ripper Handle Bridge? I can't figure where it would mount with the handle that came on the GR-200 or if I would even need it, or is that just a replacement?
> Received my GR-200 yesterday and watched the included video DVD last night and impressed with all it can do. Thinking about a 2nd GR-200.


I'm happy with the angle that the handle can be skewed to, I really don't see the need for the bridge. Like you, I'm seriously thinking in terms of a second GRR-Ripper.


----------



## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

harrysin said:


> I'm happy with the angle that the handle can be skewed to, I really don't see the need for the bridge. Like you, I'm seriously thinking in terms of a second GRR-Ripper.


Me too. 

Although the assembly instructions showed the handle mounted straight, I prefer to have it offset, so that my wrist is away from the blade when the Grrr-Ripper exits.


----------



## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Neville,
> Sounds like we are on the same page though I have only been at woodworking for about four years. I appreciate what you are saying and reinforcing my attitude toward the issue of working safelty with the tools in the wood working shop. Good habit can are the best safety tools that we can have.
> 
> Jerry


Jerry bad habits kill, bad driving habits have caused the most horrific car accidents, driving a vehicle with contempt, working with contempt can cut off your fingers so you are correct as I always say that you must have good working habits around dangerous and fast spinning tools if you don't then it is only a matter of time before you have less fingers. Neville


----------



## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

WurliTzerwilly said:


> Me too.
> 
> Although the assembly instructions showed the handle mounted straight, I prefer to have it offset, so that my wrist is away from the blade when the Grrr-Ripper exits.


Alan, I agree with your comment. I will add that with it offset it is more comfortable to apply pressure against the rip fence.

I have the second Grrr-Ripper as well though I have not used it much as many of my pieces are shorter.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I have an older saw right now without a riving knife, so the GRRipper is really particularly important. Also, the comment on exiting the workpiece puts your wrist directly over the blade, I work more from the side of the table for the most part, so my wrist is not over the blade at any point. I have never had a kickback using the GRRipper either because the down and fence pressure keeps the piece from climbing out. I'm about to replace my old Delta with a Laguna Fusion saw, which does have the riving knife, so I'm not certain how well the GRRipper will work. But I suspect it will work fine.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I can't remember if I've mentioned it before but in my opinion the GRR-Ripper makes the SawStop obsolete because it STOPS fingers getting anywhere near the blade and with the money saved, even after buying TWO GRR-Rippers other tools could be added to ones arsenal.


----------



## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Harry, I received mine today and have it assembled. Table routing is going to be much safer!


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Tom it's wonderful to see you back and hopefully you're close to making sawdust. Once you use the GRR-Ripper a few times you will understand why I'm so excited.


----------



## Marcel M (Jun 14, 2012)

I would pay attention.


----------



## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

harrysin said:


> Tom it's wonderful to see you back and hopefully you're close to making sawdust. Once you use the GRR-Ripper a few times you will understand why I'm so excited.


Harry, I am trying to come back. The GRR-Ripper is only the beginning. Among other things I have a new camera to replace my 35 mm that uses actual film, and I am working on setting up a workshop, so I can say Watch This Space. I may be making sawdust (routerdust?) today, and making skis is high on my list.

Did you see my suggestion that we should have a dedicated Router Ski subforum, immediately below General Routing on the opening page?


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

It's great news that you're so close to making some router dust Tom and now there is no excuse for absence of photographs! I hadn't seen your suggestion about a sub-forum, at the moment Mike has a major internet problem so when he returns it needs to be put to him. I'm just recovering from a really bad cold and haven't done a thing for a week, hopefully I'll be OK in a few days.


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

I found that you can get 2 GRR-RIPPERS with the bridge handles for $150.00. Wish I had seen that before I bought mine. Thinking about ordering that and then I will have 3 GRR-RIPPERS.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I don't believe that you can have too much of a good thing Bob!


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Just got my new Laguna Fusion saw and the riving knife is not so high that I can't use the Grrripper. I looked at the Saw Stop many times but again and again I read that wet wood would cause it to fire (oops, there goes another $70 cartridge and another $50 blade. Remembering to turn the safety feature off for wet wood, which I cut on occasion such as redwood for outdoor benches and such, is something I'm likely to forget. And testing wood for moisture isn't something I do very often. Thus I think the Grrripper and the Fusion saw is a better, more economical choice. For the price difference, I can practically pay for one of the new Laguna band saws and to get 220 to the shop to run it. BTW, the Laguna fusion 110 v is a really nice saw, very precise out of its wooden crate with only minor tuning


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

Harry, I hope you are right as I buckled and ordered the 2 pack with the bridge handles and will soon have 3 GRR-RIPPERs.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Please do let us know what you think of them after a really good test Bob. Just over a week ago I routed a triple bead in one cut on the router table and had to use my CMT collet extension. There was so much vibration that had it not been for the GRR-Ripper, I would have abandoned the operation, it really is a safety tool and not just for the table saw.


----------



## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

harrysin said:


> It's great news that you're so close to making some router dust Tom and now there is no excuse for absence of photographs! I hadn't seen your suggestion about a sub-forum, at the moment Mike has a major internet problem so when he returns it needs to be put to him. I'm just recovering from a really bad cold and haven't done a thing for a week, hopefully I'll be OK in a few days.


First I do hope you are recovering well from your cold. I know too well how such things can slow down ones plans.
Thank you so very much for your encouragement. It means more to me than I can express.
I have some discomfiting thing now that among other things keeps me from getting more than about 5 hours sleep, but I feel I am getting my life back on track. 
In addition to learning my new camera, also outfitted for another too long dormant passion of mine, nature photography, I have plans for building an indoor workshop. My first projects are the assembly of it. I have even obtained a belt sander, a bench radial drill press, (currently awaiting assembly), a sliding compound miter saw, and parts for a workbench dedicated to a ski mounted router. Right now I have a chicken-egg problem. Eventually I have plans for putting together the Shopnotes router lathe. I also have a shop wet dry vac for dust collection. I am not certain how much I can get done in the next two weeks, when my day job starts up, but with optimism I say Watch This Space!


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Tom, I can see that I'm going to have some stiff competition in the future.


----------



## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

harrysin said:


> Tom, I can see that I'm going to have some stiff competition in the future.


Harry, I don't think I will ever be competition for you; I do hope someday to be thought a successful apprentice of yours.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'm sure that you know I'm here to give you any advice that I'm capable of, either through the forum, by email or PM. Where possible there will of course be photographs but this rules out PM's.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

People are saying it's pricey , but what price can you put on keeping all your fingers lol.
I bought a Rolland piano and loosing a finger or two might make it difficult to learn


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I may have made the post just in time Rick!


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Harry, I just bought a second Gripper. So nice to be able to "walk" a piece all the way through the cut. Your comments are very much appreciated.


----------



## Ed Bray (May 17, 2014)

After seeing this thread yesterday I ordered an advanced with free handle bridge, a 1/8th" leg and a deflector/connector. Today I ordered a second one.

So hopefully by this time next week it should all be here (it's coming from the US), it won't be before time, in the last few weeks I have had 4 close shaves (only 2 the grr ripper would have prevented), the worst one was from my Tormek T7 when I was being lazy and sharpening from a sitting position, wouldn't have been possible if I had been doing it as advised and another was when I was holding two bits of wood to be nailed with my Ryobi nailer and an 18 gauge brad blew out the side and straight into my left thumb nail, still not sure how it managed to hit my thumb.


----------



## EndGrained (Jan 16, 2015)

*A Year and a Half Later*

Hi,

I just finished using my GR-200 for the first time, and thought I had something new to contribute to this forum. How wrong I was...7 full pages of submissions already!!

Anyway, the first project was to rip some 1/8"X 1"X16" walnut strips for a basket weave (3D effect) board I'm making with birds eye maple contrasted with paduak. All I can say is this jig (stock) is worth every penny. Making these use to stressful, but not today.

One accessory I plan to add is the flat push plate this attaches to the rear of the GR-200....for safety sake, I really think this should be included with the new unit. 

George


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

My soon to be restored Darra James does not have a guard or riving knife. Good thing is it's a left tilter...

Pair of GRRippers are already on my list for putting it in service when it's finished...plus a short fence...no long sleeve shirts allowed in the shop...

Buying another pair for my brother for his job-siter...and making him a short fence to slip over his fence

..can't put a price on 10 fingers...

Equally important, IMHO, is RESPECT rather than FEAR.


----------



## Goblu (Mar 5, 2012)

Reading this thread pushed me over the edge and I finally got two of them as a package. From what i understand the bridge handle is for people with larger hands, which is not me. I'd seen that some people over at lumberjocks were making something similar, and I'd looked at the plans, but decided to get the real thing instead. One of the table saws I use has those microsplitters, so I'll get a chance to try the grrr-ripper with that in a week or two. I don't have my own table saw, but someday will have a contractor saw at least.


----------

