# New to making drawers



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Even though I am 52 years old, I have never made a drawer. 

I would like to make drawers for my workbench. I know there are a few different techniques for joining the parts together, so here is my question:

What is the simplest way for a beginner to make drawers that are fairly sturdy? 

The first ones will be for compartments to store nails and nuts and bolts and stuff like that. I am not going to put really heavy things in them.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Chris

There was a thread about this way back, here

That's how Tage Frid showed people how to do it in his books. No need for fancy, expensive lock bits

Regards

Phil


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Chris,

I made some pretty simple drawers for my workbench. The sides are 1/2" plywood with 1/4" MDF, or hardboard bottoms and dividers. On two large drawers that hold circular saws and other heavier items I used 1/2" plywood for the bottoms. Those bottoms were just glued and nailed with the bad nailer.

All the drawers are 24" deep with full-extension slides. I made three sizes of drawers. Most are 5 1/2" tall, two are 17" tall (for larger tools like circular saws, nail guns, and drills), and I have four drawers that are 2 3/4" tall. The shallower drawers make it easier to find smaller items rather than digging to the bottom of 5 1/2" drawer.

You can see from the photo that I've been using a simple lock joint to join the drawer fronts, backs, and sides. I made the joint on my router table but it could just as easily be done with the table saw. All the joints are glued and I always give them a couple of hits with the brad nailer to hold things while the glue dries.

On the smaller drawers I have 1/4" dados cut in the sides about every 4" so I can insert removable dividers to keep things organized.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks guys. Those joints look straightforward enough for even me to be able to handle. 

Oliver, those look very much like the kind of drawers I would like to make.

Being a cheap *******, I am interested in a solution that doesn't use slides I have to buy. 

What are my options there?


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## Harrison67 (May 30, 2012)

Check out Rockler's drawer options:..

Classic Wood Center Mount Drawer Slide - Rockler Woodworking Tools


Drawer parts:


http://woodworking.rockler.com/c/retrofit-slides-drawer-parts


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Chris, I built a simple work bench 25 years ago when we moved into our house. The drawers were made from regular 3/4 inch plywood. I used glue and butt joints, mainly because I was not very skilled and tools were limited.

They have been use ever since. A couple weight 40+ pounds with all sorts of tools in them. A couple of years ago, I removed one drawer and opened up the area under the bench for a small refrigerator. I tried to break down the drawer and literally had to beat the pieces apart. The glue and finish nails were still holding very well.

Each drawer has a simple ledge for a tray to sit on. I can slide it back and forth to reach the tools underneath. Works really well with forstner bit storage and assorted smaller bits and bobs!


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> Thanks guys. Those joints look straightforward enough for even me to be able to handle.
> 
> Oliver, those look very much like the kind of drawers I would like to make.
> 
> ...


I know the cost of slides begins to add up quickly when you need lots of drawers. The 24" full extension slides are about $19 a pair. But any solution that doesn't allow full extension makes a it difficult to get to the back end of the drawer. Plus, the slides are rated at 100 lbs. so there is no problem holding a drawer full of nails and screws. Hopefully someone else has a good solution for you.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Oliver's right, Chris; It's a one-time expense that'll work for the rest of your life. Anything less and you'll be regretting it, guaranteed. 
One very small item: I always round over the tops of my drawer sides and backs (the rough front, not the exterior facing front. Nothing gets your attention faster than a sliver under your fingernail...
A coat of urethane to seal the grain can't hurt either.


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

I've been reading back-issues of American Woodworker on Google Books lately, and Oct-Dec 1991 they had two good articles about drawers. The first part is about carcass construction and runner options, the second is about drawer box construction and fitting.
American Woodworker - Google Books
American Woodworker - Google Books


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

+1 on drawer lock joints for the construction. I have got a drawer lock bit but after building the first couple of drawers and seeing how it worked, I just make them on the table saw or router table with a slot cutter. 

As far as drawer slides, I used 14 sets of these in my kitchen, work fine

24 Full Extension Mount Drawer Slide Ball Bearing Side items in E-Mart Superstores store on eBay!

The dowside to slides is you loose an inch of drawer width. The drawer I put in this tool stand pulls out from both sides so I couldn't use drawer slides. The drawer just runs on the sides of the drawer. I did inlay a couple of strips of MDF on the runners and put bullnose on the bottom of the drawer sides to cut down on the wood-on-wood thing. I also agree with Dan on rounding over the tops of the drawer sides and front to cut down splinters. 
I've been building all the drawers with 1/2" ply, sides, front, back and bottoms. All joints are the locking rabbet and glued up. I did the first couple of drawers with 1/4" hardboard bottoms. Guess which ones need fixing?:fie:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

This is how I do it...

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/35600-drawer-test.html


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Chris Curl said:


> Thanks guys. Those joints look straightforward enough for even me to be able to handle.
> 
> Oliver, those look very much like the kind of drawers I would like to make.
> 
> ...


Glue a runner under and over both drawer sides, The top one keeps the drawer from tipping down when it is opened. Glue strips of high pressure countertop laminate on the bottom runner. If it gets sticky, take the drawer out and either rub the bottom of the side or the HPL with parafin (candle wax). Cheap and lasts a very long time.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

well i made my first drawer tonight. it is just a "proof of concept" using some 1/2" ply scraps i had lying around.

i did it using the router and the 1/4" offset technique, where you set the router at 1/4" high and the fence 1/4" from the edge of the bit.

here is my pet peeve: the plywood is actually 15/32", not 1/2", so the corners don't line up exactly. so the fence needs to be moved 1/32" closer to the bit for the dados in the front and back. ugh. if it was TRULY 1/2", then the fence could stay where it is.

but is is nice and sturdy


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## Harrison67 (May 30, 2012)

Yeah, that plywood thickness will bite you every time, if you don't plan ahead.


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

Another very quick and simple way of assembling a drawer that I don't think has been mentioned on either of the recent threads is to use pocket-screwed butt joints. If you're applying a false front, you can hide all the pocket holes by putting them on the outside of the drawer, so the back ones will be hidden behind the drawer and the front ones are hidden by the false front.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

AndyL said:


> Another very quick and simple way of assembling a drawer that I don't think has been mentioned on either of the recent threads is to use pocket-screwed butt joints. If you're applying a false front, you can hide all the pocket holes by putting them on the outside of the drawer, so the back ones will be hidden behind the drawer and the front ones are hidden by the false front.


I don't have a pocket hole jig, but I can definately see how they would make life easier. Too bad they are so expensive. Have I mentioned that I am a cheapskate? 

So there is a version that is for 1/2" stock? 

And I am also guessing you would still have to route the groove for the bottom ... ?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I've got a pocket hole jig but I'm not sold on them for things that take a lot of abuse, such as drawers. They are also problematic with thinner stocks, not recommended for less than half inch. Screws in plywood are also a less than ideal situation.


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

John, I reckon glue, butt joints and pocket screws should be at least as good as glue, butt joints and finish nails as referred to in Mike's post! I have to admit I've only ever used this type of construction with 3/4" pine, but I have seen it done with 1/2" plywood.

Chris, have you seen the Kreg mini and junior jigs? They are pretty cheap. Not as quick as the "production" jigs I'm sure, but still quick. It's only the jig that is mini/junior, the pocket holes are the normal size and you use the same screws. They work with 1/2" thick stock but you have to buy screws with smaller heads, so the heads don't stand proud of the surface.


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## thammons (Mar 26, 2012)

*Very practical!*



Gaffboat said:


> Chris,
> 
> I made some pretty simple drawers for my workbench. The sides are 1/2" plywood with 1/4" MDF, or hardboard bottoms and dividers. On two large drawers that hold circular saws and other heavier items I used 1/2" plywood for the bottoms. Those bottoms were just glued and nailed with the bad nailer.
> 
> ...


Strong, versatile drawers. The different depths provide flexibility. The divider slots are a great idea, too. I think I'd start with this approach and perhaps learn with experience to incorporate additional features but maybe this is all I'd need.
th


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

so my local HD has what they call "project pieces" of poplar in various widths on sale, all 1/2" thick and 2' long. The 2 1/2" wide ones are $1.75, so I bought 6 nice straight pieces. i used 3 of them tonight to make a drawer 1' wide and 2' long. it is, of course, 2 1/2" tall. 

ths nice thing about these is that they are much closer to truly 1/2", so i didn't have to mess with the spacing of the fence.

i am happy with this drawer, and it is a good size for odds and ends.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Andy, I don't know why my post didn't show up, but I too mentioned that I use the butt joint, glue and pocket hole screws for my shaker style doors. And they are strong. I tried to take one apart after removing the plug and screws, and it wasn't happening without breaking something. The only complaint on the system I have is that the stepped drill bit that drills the pocket holes, don't drill all the way through. So when you go to screw the joint together, if you don't squeeze the two pieces together, sometimes you get a gap between the wood. So I bought a taper length drill bit, the size of the small part of the pocket hole drill bit. And after I drill the pocket hole, I then go back through with my long small drill bit and drill clean through the board. Then when I screw the boards together, they butt up tight. 



Chris, it may be a bit expensive, but you can use it for the caucuses, drawers, doors, as I did for my cabinets. All I routed on my door boxes was the groove for the bottoms. It's been one of my favorite purchases. I built a vanity for my bathroom a little over a year ago, all pocketholes.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

*Kreg pocket screws*

I'm a big fan of pocket screws also and I think my investment in the Kreg jig has more than paid for itself. I used pocket screws to build some built-in bookcases for my living room and they made the whole project quicker and relatively easy.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Chris Curl

I know I have said b/4 but with the Katie dove tail jig it's so quick and easy to make drawers, in less that 5 mins.you have one done and they fit just right in the hole. ..and yes you can use 1/2" plywood if you want...

http://www.routerforums.com/woodworking-classifieds/33513-sommerfeld-katiejig-brand-new-box.html
===



Chris Curl said:


> Even though I am 52 years old, I have never made a drawer.
> 
> I would like to make drawers for my workbench. I know there are a few different techniques for joining the parts together, so here is my question:
> 
> ...


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

N'awlins77 said:


> The only complaint on the system I have is that the stepped drill bit that drills the pocket holes, don't drill all the way through. So when you go to screw the joint together, if you don't squeeze the two pieces together, sometimes you get a gap between the wood.


I've never been able to figure out why they make them like that either... but it does seem to be a definite design decision, they say the drilled hole is not supposed to come all the way through.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi
If you go all the way through it will put a little bump/tit in the wood and you will not get it right (square fit) the screws are made to drill the hole out just right..

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AndyL said:


> I've never been able to figure out why they make them like that either... but it does seem to be a definite design decision, they say the drilled hole is not supposed to come all the way through.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Chris Curl
> 
> I know I have said b/4 but with the Katie dove tail jig it's so quick and easy to make drawers, in less that 5 mins.you have one done and they fit just right in the hole. ..and yes you can use 1/2" plywood if you want...
> 
> ...


bob, being the cheapskate i am, i can't justify the cost for that. now if i could make a shop made jig for it, then we are getting somewhere.

but not too long ago, i got a craftsman dovetail jig for $5 from a guy on craigslist, but it apparently needs a certain bit and guide which he didn't have. i have not played with that at all or 

bob, being that you are the jig master, how hard would it be to make a homemade dovetail jig? i have a dovetail bit, but i don't know the details of it right now because i am at work and the bit is at home.

is the angle of the one side of the jig the same as the angle of the bit that goes with the jig?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

It's easy to make your own all you need is one of the forks for a pattern,a 14.oo dollar item..you don't need the Alum.track stuff you can use some hardwood for that..

Sorry to say the Craftsman dovetail jig is scrap iron, I have MANY dovetail jigs and many will put you off from putting in dovetails..  you want one that you don't need a manual for or to run test parts right off the bat...it's like riding a bike you don't want to learn how every time you use it..

===


Chris Curl said:


> bob, being the cheapskate i am, i can't justify the cost for that. now if i could make a shop made jig for it, then we are getting somewhere.
> 
> but not too long ago, i got a craftsman dovetail jig for $5 from a guy on craigslist, but it apparently needs a certain bit and guide which he didn't have. i have not played with that at all or
> 
> ...


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> If you go all the way through it will put a little bump/tit in the wood and you will not get it right (square fit) the screws are made to drill the hole out just right..
> 
> ===


Bob, I just hit the bump/tit with my sanding block.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Lee

That works but it's a step that's not needed.  unless you are using dry wall screws.

==



N'awlins77 said:


> Bob, I just hit the bump/tit with my sanding block.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

No Bob, I'm using the pockethole screws. But sometimes, and not all the time, they don't pull the joints tight. I just find it works better this way. Like the saying, "whatever works best for you!" ;o) But I do love my pockethole screw jig!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

What size screws do you use ? I use 6 x 1 1/2" long the norm but I do use 8 x 1 1/4" some times and if I run into one that's hard to pull in I will put in a 10 x 1 1/4" or 12 x 1 1/4 Pan head sheet metal screw..

I have 3 setups for the pocket holes,Kreg,Sommerfeld,MLCS.

I found a old guy who makes my drill bits..at about 1/2 the price of the going price..

==


N'awlins77 said:


> No Bob, I'm using the pockethole screws. But sometimes, and not all the time, they don't pull the joints tight. I just find it works better this way. Like the saying, "whatever works best for you!" ;o) But I do love my pockethole screw jig!!


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Chris Curl said:


> Even though I am 52 years old, I have never made a drawer.
> 
> I would like to make drawers for my workbench. I know there are a few different techniques for joining the parts together, so here is my question:
> 
> ...


I find the locking rabbet joint is both strong, and easy to make. I used it to build my tool chest drawers, plus several in the shop.
Thread: http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/7909-tool-chest.html
Drawers: http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/7909-tool-chest.html#post71944


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Off hand, I believe it's the 6 x 1 1/2. The one they call for on the chart that came with the jig, for 3/4 ply. 



bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> What size screws do you use ? I use 6 x 1 1/2" long the norm but I do use 8 x 1 1/4" some times and if I run into one that's hard to pull in I will put in a 10 x 1 1/4" or 12 x 1 1/4 Pan head sheet metal screw..
> 
> ...


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

AxlMyk said:


> I find the locking rabbet joint is both strong, and easy to make. I used it to build my tool chest drawers, plus several in the shop.
> Thread: http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/7909-tool-chest.html
> Drawers: http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/7909-tool-chest.html#post71944


thanks. i ended up going with those joints. that is a beautiful chest by the way.


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