# How much should I do with an mdf Router tabletop



## ndbuck (Jul 23, 2008)

I am reentering woodworking after about a 35 year lapse.

I have never had a router table.

So I went looking and found the tables that Routertable Depot sells.

I had a "decent' stand and didn't think I needed another.

I ordered and have recieved a "scratch and dent" table top, I am very pleased with it. The table top is made of 1 1/8 mdf ( a product I don't think was around when I was doing woodworking before) with Laminate, not Melamine, top and bottom surfaces.

I am on the threshhold of mounting it on the stand and wonder if I should do some modifying before I do.

The stand is a very stout Montgomery ward stand originally sold to hold their 10" Radial Arm saw. I have realized that the horizontal members upon which I would mount the table (about 3 1/2" wide) are available only on the two ends of the table (direct support of the table would only be near the ends of the 32 1/2" table) there are no horizontal members on the stand at what would be the front and back of the table at the same level as the two available sufaces. I has dawned on me that the mdf table will have no direct support along it's long axis (the width).

Hence, I have purchased some 3/4 steel angle and am about to put my new (never used yet) PC 895 with it's plunge base to cut two stopped grooves on the tables bottom side deep enough to receive the angle iron on the tables bottom side. It is my intent to hacksaw one leg of the angle off each end of the angle for a distance adequate to make "tangs" which would rest on the "end" horizontal members. I invision the tang to be recessed in to the bottom of the table.

I intend to install two such lengths of angle, one on each side of the router plate cutout (Close but not to close) to diminish or prevent sagging of the table.

My Climate, Red Bluff Cal is very warm and dry in the summer. Triple digits F. are common place and day time RH is often in the 10 to 20% range.

Winters are cool and usually moist, if not raining.

Is what I plan -- not enough? Is it ovekill with 1 1/8" mdf spanning about 29 inchs?

A related question is: Should I "seal" exposed surfaces of the mdf with something like a polyurethane varnish. At least one person has suggested I should't worry about it.

I guess I should type something this long "offline" and "paste" it in. <grin>

Thanks,

Nelson


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Nelson, perhaps the best answer to your question would be for you to look at a Router workshop table. The iron stand is all overkill. The angle supports should not be needed. Rather than use a bulky and awkward stand why not build a simple one? On the left side of our home page there is a link for Oak Park. Once there select the US catalog and you will be able to see the table.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nelson

Over Kill is the word,,, it will not need to hold a Mack truck just a 20 lb. router at the most...and I sure you will want to move it around the shop from time to time...without the need of a tow truck..

I would suggest just a clean cabinet that you can screw the top down to from the under side and then add some wheels with locks...a 3 sided cabinet works well for a router table, a way to get to the router motor and a place for some jigs,tools,etc. on the bottom shelf...I don't recommend doors or drawers they are just a place to keep junk the norm..

Keep it simple and easy to use.
I would also suggest you use the hvy.duty frame for a work bench that you can build your projects on,, a nice flat top that you can use clamps on that's to say so you can clamp the projects down to the top that has 6" over hang on the top...

Most have a work bench or two but they can't clamp anything down to it... 

=======





ndbuck said:


> I am reentering woodworking after about a 35 year lapse.
> 
> I have never had a router table.
> 
> ...


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Nelson, What a coincidence, next to my garage I have a Wards RA saw stand that I got in Red Bluff (used to work there). I was going to use mine for a router table, but its way to heavy. So it still sits outside. That top with the laminate needs a little support but not that much. On the left side of your screen,below every username you'll see "view gallery". Search thru these and you will see lots of router tables for ideas.


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## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

I'm with BobJ3 in that am not keen on a bunch of dickydoo drawers in a router table. I do have two drawer below the bottom shelf where I store bit guards & small jigs. My table has a 1" MDF top laminated both sides & painted edges plus painted table insert hole & ledge. For bits I store them in a small cabinet stored under the top overhang at one end of the router table. I like this arrangement because I can see all of my bits at a glance.

Lee


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## ndbuck (Jul 23, 2008)

Lee,

looking at your pictures, it appears that you have a metal stand framework in to which you have incorporated some cabinetry, also I noted what appears to be a HF (or similiar) mobile base. Do I have that right? 

That approach is very similiar to what I have in mind.

What kind of hinging did you use for the Bit holding cabinet door?

Nelson


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## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

Nelson: Nope...not a metal frame. It's wooden painted grey. The bit cabinet is attached to the table using a piano hinge.The cabinet sits in a mobile base. I park my car in my shop, so everything has to be mobile. This also forces me to clean up after working in the shop instead of allowing the mess to accumulate.

Lee


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## ndbuck (Jul 23, 2008)

Thank you all for your comments.

I have taken them to heart. As I have looked at plans for stands and some of the nice features that shopbuilt stand have (esp. the bottom side Dust collection Boxs, which can be used to provide some lateral support to the table top) I have decided that project 2 will be to build a stand for the Router table top I have.

It also comes to mind, that like so many things about life and esp. woodworking, is that probably a valuable tool to have when making a stand for a router table sure would be a router table. So I am going to go ahead and mount the table top to that Monkey Ward metal stand temporarily, and then after I have built a stand find another use for this heavy duty thing.

BTW, I am really interested in econoimical and effective dust collection at a hobby level(I have had lung surgery) I suggest that if your are -- take a look at J. Phil Thien shop built. 

He somewhat encourages donations but not forcefully so. I have accumulated the parts and that is project number 1 for the router table. In that, I am going to make the circle cutting jig he describes in the discussions link on the page inorder to make the circle cuts the project requires.

Since I am not yet authorized to post an url. Google "the thien cylcone"

I have no connection with Thien, just impressed at apparant effectiveness at little cost.

Nelson


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Here's the URL. http://www.cgallery.com/jpthien/cy.htm
I've been wanting to make one myself. The DC bag gets full very quickly when using the jointer and planer. A trash can is much easier to empty.


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## Neil Moon (Jul 14, 2008)

Having worled with mdf quite alot professionally, I would reccomend that you seal it with either varnish or dedicated sealer


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## ndbuck (Jul 23, 2008)

I had already decided to do that.

I was thinking of thinning an intial coat of polyurethane with about 10 percent mineral spirits with the prospect that would get more penetration. on the exposed surfaces of the mdf.

I also intend to take out the t-track (temporarily) and coat the semi exposed surfaces found there and, after drying, reinstall.

Any thoughts?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Take a look at this table. It is jury-rigged but works flawlessly. That cupboard in the middle is for bits etc.


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## ndbuck (Jul 23, 2008)

*Where did you get the Switch?*



allthunbs said:


> Take a look at this table. It is jury-rigged but works flawlessly. That cupboard in the middle is for bits etc.


I like ther table it looks as if it is quite large in table top area.

Where did you get te switch?

Does the switch handle your router and a shop Vac at the same time?

Nelson


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Nelson, switches of this type are available from several sources including Rockler and Woodcraft. Designs may differ slightly but the safety function works the same on all.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

hi Ndbuck, you wrote;



ndbuck said:


> I like ther table it looks as if it is quite large in table top area.
> 
> Where did you get te switch?
> 
> ...


The table is 2' x 4' with 1 1/2" overhang on the ends and 2 1/2" overhang on the sides. This is on purpose. It is very difficult to handle large pieces with a fence oriented lengthwise. Crosswise is very easy to implement and handle. I've also found that the widest I can work with is 2'. I've tried test tables that are wider and they were tiring to work at and awkward. I have also turned the OakPark insert diagonally in the table. I wouldn't do this again. The next time I order MDF, I'm going to change the top and put the plates square.

The switch is jury-rigged. I got the safety switch from busy bee on sale. The plug is a standard plug but the box is a PVC conduit box. On the bottom is a plug that is wired from the side, not from the end and screwed into the end of the box. Yes, you can wire both sides of the plug to the switch but I chose not to. Also there is a problem with the router plug clearing the safety paddle on the bottom recepticle. The flip side is that I can hit the switch with anything and it will trip off -- knee, foot, hand, heel, a stick, just about anything that I can reach with. BTW, the switch is mounted on a piece of plywood and this whole assembly is held in place with bolt and wing nut. To control another device on another table, merely move the switch. All of the tables will accept this switch assembly. There is no cord, the extension cord plugs directly into the switch assembly.


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