# Groove Question



## Pastorshobby (Jan 31, 2018)

I’m trying to make an inch wide groove in a piece of wood to hold a shelf. Right now I’m using half inch bit. Whenever I try to do more than an 1/8inch depth the cut messes up. Is there a simpler way to make an inch groove? How do you make grooves on your table?


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## mimac (Dec 13, 2009)

I would use a dado blade on a table saw. If you are using a router in a router table setup and your cut is wandering make sure you're feeding in the right direction and you are using hold-downs and feather boards.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Pastorshobby said:


> I’m trying to make an inch wide groove in a piece of wood to hold a shelf. Right now I’m using half inch bit. Whenever I try to do more than an 1/8inch depth the cut messes up. Is there a simpler way to make an inch groove? How do you make grooves on your table?


Joe ? Is your shelf a 1” thick, and how deep do want the groove to be?
Are using some kind of guide system, does the 1/2” bit have a bearing or are using a template guide? How long is the groove?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Semipro said:


> Joe ? Is your shelf a 1” thick, and how deep do want the groove to be?
> Are using some kind of guide system, does the 1/2” bit have a bearing or are using a template guide? How long is the groove?


w/ grain or cross grain..
and describe the mess up..


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## KennK (Mar 7, 2012)

It may be more of an investment than you want to make at this time, but Eurekazone.com makes what they the Super Smart Routing Kit which works with their Track Saw Guide Rails. You provide your own router - usually a plunge router is used.

The available rail stops allow you to cut exact width and length dadoes & rabbets with smaller router bits. Watch the video to get a sense of it. Think hand-driven CNC router.


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

My guess is that the pastor was using a straight edge, but running the wrong direction against it. Not hard to overcome when the depth was only 1/8", but too hard to keep against the fence when the load/depth increased. 

Always move away from you with the fence on the left. Toward you with the fence on the right. 

4D


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Sounds like you're trying to feed the board into the bit by moving the board. Generally a dado like this should be cut by running the router across the board using some sort of guide clamped to the workpiece. 

The following video is on how to make a jig called an exact fit dado jig, which allows you to easily make perfect dados with the router. It is reusable. Next best way to make them is with a table saw, be even there you will find it requires a jig to reliably make the cut 90 degrees to the edge of the board.

Here's the video. Pay particular attention to how carefully he set the glued pieces 90 degrees to the longer guide pieces. And notice that he took pains to make sure the guide edge is dead flat. You will be using a half inch trim bit, maybe 3/4 inch long with a bearing at its base. Attached is a picture of such a jig and small mortising bit with half inch shank.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

more on feed direction....


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## Pastorshobby (Jan 31, 2018)

I’m routing cross grain in the correct direction with feather boards. The blade cuts out and moves the wood messing up the straight line. I tried it again and my next pass was okay


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## Pastorshobby (Jan 31, 2018)

4DThinker said:


> My guess is that the pastor was using a straight edge, but running the wrong direction against it. Not hard to overcome when the depth was only 1/8", but too hard to keep against the fence when the load/depth increased.
> 
> Always move away from you with the fence on the left. Toward you with the fence on the right.
> 
> 4D


I think it’s the opposite you always more right to left, I think?


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## Pastorshobby (Jan 31, 2018)

Semipro said:


> Pastorshobby said:
> 
> 
> > I’m trying to make an inch wide groove in a piece of wood to hold a shelf. Right now I’m using half inch bit. Whenever I try to do more than an 1/8inch depth the cut messes up. Is there a simpler way to make an inch groove? How do you make grooves on your table?
> ...


My shelf is 1” thick. Generally you want a dado that is 1/3 the board thickness right? So I want it 3/8” deep I’m using a table so I don’t need a guide system right?


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## Pastorshobby (Jan 31, 2018)

Here are the pictures


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## Terry Q (Mar 2, 2017)

I think taking 1/8 inch off per pass is just about right. Trying to take 3/8 off in one pass can burn up your bit. If you make an initial pass of 1/16 or less you will get much sharper edges on your groove/dado, no chance of splintering.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

Pastorshobby said:


> I think it’s the opposite you always more right to left, I think?


If you are using a router table with a fence and passing wood over a bit then yes, right to left against the fence. If you are using a handheld router and a straightedge to guide it then the straightedge should be on your left as you move forward, on your right if you are pulling the router toward you. Let the spinning direction of the bit help keep you against the fence/straightedge.


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## Pastorshobby (Jan 31, 2018)

Terry Q said:


> I think taking 1/8 inch off per pass is just about right. Trying to take 3/8 off in one pass can burn up your bit. If you make an initial pass of 1/16 or less you will get much sharper edges on your groove/dado, no chance of splintering.
> 
> 
> In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.


Thank you I will try this next time.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

have you considered this joint... (shouldered dado)
have you considered a dado blade for your TS???

...


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## Pastorshobby (Jan 31, 2018)

Stick486 said:


> have you considered this joint... (shouldered dado)
> have you considered a dado blade for your TS???
> 
> ...


Why this joint? 
My table saw is old and rusty, I’m more comfortable with my router.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

When bilding cabinets, I had been using 3/8 inch deep dadoes. Then one day, I backed off to 1/4 inch depth. Never had any problems. That was 60-70 cabinets, and numerous other projects ago.

I use the exact width dado jig that was referenced. I built it several years ago and drew up the drawing. It has served me well. Make that jig and you will love it.


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## Pastorshobby (Jan 31, 2018)

MT Stringer said:


> When bilding cabinets, I had been using 3/8 inch deep dadoes. Then one day, I backed off to 1/4 inch depth. Never had any problems. That was 60-70 cabinets, and numerous other projects ago.
> 
> I use the exact width dado jig that was referenced. I built it several years ago and drew up the drawing. It has served me well. Make that jig and you will love it.


I would love to make this jig but I don't have guide bushings? can it be used without a busing?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Pastorshobby said:


> I would love to make this jig but I don't have guide bushings? can it be used without a busing?


yes...
use top bearing guided bits..


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## Pastorshobby (Jan 31, 2018)

Stick486 said:


> Pastorshobby said:
> 
> 
> > I would love to make this jig but I don't have guide bushings? can it be used without a busing?
> ...


Like a trim bit?
Wow I’ve been so over thinking this. I could just clamp two scraps and use a trim but right?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Pastorshobby said:


> Like a trim bit?
> Wow I’ve been so over thinking this. I could just clamp two scraps and use a trim but right?


not a trim bit ...
*a mortising bit...* they come in a lot of sizes and depths of cut...
really good ones don't cost much either... quality will show here over an impart..
*Freud Tools | 5/8" (Dia.) Mortising Bit*

instead of scrap pieces of wood use a pair of speed squares...
multipurpose tool..
self squaring..
clean and straight guide edge..


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Pastorshobby said:


> I would love to make this jig but I don't have guide bushings? can it be used without a busing?


Yes, a top bearing pattern bit is what I use. The pattern bit is 1/2 inch in dia. so it works great for dadoes that are 3/4 inch in width (or thereabouts).

I start the cut with the bit on the left side of the jig. With the depth set at 1/8 inch, I push it away from me until it clears the back edge, then re-position the router and pull it back to me with the bearing following the right side of the jig. Adjust the depth of cut and repeat. A 1/4 inch dado requires two passes.

Note the images with the little DeWalt compact router. I used the jig to cut dadoes for the rear of some drawers I was building.

Good luck.
Mike


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Stick is correct on using a mortising bit, which is able to make a flat, smooth bottom to the dado or groove. The picture I posted is of a mortising bit. Notice the bearing. The bearing follows the guides of the jig, or if you just use a couple of lengths of wood, the bearing rides against the boards. I'd use a fairly wide board so your clamps can be placed out of the way of the router. Heck, here's the picture of the mortising bit (yellow) compared to the trim bit, (red) for comparison. You can see the carbide is much wider on the mortising bit so it flattens the bottom of the cut better. Mortising bits are also great for recessed hinges and door hardware.

Last item: Don't lower the bit into the slot while it's running. Start the slot or dado outside the piece and slide it across. NEVER lift a fixed base router out of a cut because it is very easy to catch it on the edge. It will ruin the cut or the jig. How would I know about such a thing?

Now that I'm thinking about unhappy experiences, notice the set screws near the bearing? Make sure they are cinched tight. You need to clean and lube the bearings from time to time, so they are removable. But if they're loose, the bit can fly apart.


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## Pastorshobby (Jan 31, 2018)

This:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002TU8NI?tag=price198-20&ascsubtag=283884830&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1&psc=1

Or
This:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002TU97S?tag=price198-20&ascsubtag=283884830&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1&psc=1


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Pastorshobby said:


> This:
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002TU8NI?tag=price198-20&ascsubtag=283884830&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1&psc=1
> 
> *Or
> ...




This one. Your jig should be 1/2 inch thick. The bearing rides against it. This will do the job for you. As you cut deeper, the bearing will ride against the material if you go that deep.

So, yes, buy this one.

Good times straight ahead.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Pastorshobby said:


> This:
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002TU8NI?tag=price198-20&ascsubtag=283884830&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1&psc=1
> 
> Or
> ...


the ½'' bit...


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

OOPS! Stick is right. I didn't read the specs close enough. !/2 inch diameter is correct. Sorry bout that. Check my pictures and you will see the bit.


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## Pastorshobby (Jan 31, 2018)

Stick486 said:


> not a trim bit ...
> *a mortising bit...* they come in a lot of sizes and depths of cut...
> really good ones don't cost much either... quality will show here over an impart..
> *Freud Tools | 5/8" (Dia.) Mortising Bit*
> ...


won't a square be too thin for it to run along the bit bearing?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Pastorshobby said:


> won't a square be too thin for it to run along the bit bearing?


the router runs against the square... don't need a bearing guided bit for this..
oh the value of centering rulers and spacing blocks..
Center Point® Rules - Lee Valley Tools


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