# How to make this piece



## jtull01 (Feb 27, 2014)

Folks,
Im in a bit of a quandary. I need to reproduce a piece of trim for some bookshelves. The shelves are made from 3/4" ply Oak and hard wood. The are not older than 6 years.

The problem is I need to make a piece of half round for front edging.

The half round measures 1 3/16 wide and 5/8" thick/deep. It has 1/4" flats on each side before it starts to round over. 
So what bit, and how would you recommend I make this profile?

Thanks!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The center section of this one is similar. MLCS Mitered Door Frame Router Bits and Kits

A thumbnail bit used from both sides would also be pretty close.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Starting with stock 1 3/16" thick, using a 5/8" round over bit on both faces of the board and then ripping the rounded edge on a table saw will get you very close to what you need. My math shows the radius of your round over should actually be .658 inches instead of the .625" inches I'm suggesting, but I think it's a good compromise that uses a standard size bit.

You could also use a bullnose bit like these: http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...ml/pages/bt_bull.html?zoom_highlight=Bullnose


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The profile you show is cut with a half bull nose or oval edge bit. Some companies call this a thumbnail bit which is confusing as there are a lot of thumbnail bits that only cut half the profile. I think the Whiteside 1480 will make the cut you are asking about.


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## jtull01 (Feb 27, 2014)

Well still searching for the trim!
I actually found a scrap piece in the building that the shelves go into.

I tracked down the cabinet maker, and he sent me to a wood mill as a resource.
I really only need 30 lineal feet of trim, so I'm waiting to hear from them. 
Perhaps the mill might suggest tooling. I don't think they are in business to give advice.

If not, Ill have to go back to plan A and come as close as I can with readily available tooling.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I think your options are:

1) Buy a bullnose bit to match as close as possible as suggested by Mike and Chuck
2) Oliver's suggestion is what I would try if oyu already have 1/2 round over bits in certain radius. 

Using the second option you start with a piece of stock and plane it down to the required thickness. Next you would set up a round over bit on the router table. You will need to make two passes on the router table doing each side. Once you have both sides routed you head over to the table saw and make a rip cut with finished bullnose on the outside of the blade.

I guess the other question we should be asking you what tools do you have at your disposal? This will dictate what approach you take in solving your problem.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

"_Name that tune in ____ notes!"_

It was originally done in a molding cutter. With means the cutter was a half round and the stock was fed with feed rollerss while in a trough. Those look like a thickness planer, with feed rollers that feed the stock through the machine; profile shaped cutter blades (1-3 each) that cut on the bottom side of the head; and has rails that keep the stock centered, as the stock is fed through the machine.

The safe alternate method (using a shaper, molding head or router table) is to use a bull nose in one cut --or-- two cuts with a round-over... The profile(s) cut on the edge of a larger piece that is that thick (say 2x12 by 12' long, planned down to 1-3/16" nominal). After the profile is shaped, then you cut the profile off of the larger piece.

...At least that's the way I did it for restoration carpentry. A while back, I looked into a true molding cutter, like I described above. The cost of an old machine was affordable. But the cutter blades where over $100 each. I quickly decided that I do not create enough custom moldings to pay for that kind of tooling. That part of it made it more cost efficient for me to create under 150-200' via other methods, with cheaper tooling. If more than that, you really had to decide if it was cost worthy to do it yourself. Short runs without a feeder you can watch your feed rate. Long runs, it's easy to let your mind wander... then the feed rate gets affected.

EDIT-- I just did some ruff math estimations and I get a radius of about a 1-1/4" radius on that or 2-1/2 diameter across. Looks like maybe leaving that to/with a 1-1/4" 1/2" shank round-over bit.


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## jamesamd (Jul 21, 2011)

1 1/2" dowel/hot glue to a board IE guide/split in half on TS with 1/8" full kerf blade/
TS 5/32" off each edge/live with the results.

Jim


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