# Question about above or below table height adjustment and more



## jnbrown (Apr 14, 2013)

I am building my own router table. Progress has been very slow due to lack of time.
So far I have a 24" x 36" MDF top screwed to a poplar box frame.
I am planning to build this stand as it will work with the poplar frame and is low cost:

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/303/routertable.pdf

For the top I was going to use Formica but couldn't find a scrap and don't want to mess with contact cement. So I am going to use some 1/4" thick white board I got at home depot and screw it to the MDF using through holes and machine screws so I can replace when needed, hopefully never.

I have a PC690 router and was looking at getting a Bosch 1617 for the above table adjustment. But now I am not sure I want to spend the extra or so $200 on it. I will be using an Incra Magnalock plate which fit either router.

Is it that hard to adjust the PC690 under the table? I am a part time hobbyist woodworker and not cranking out a lot of projects. I work on them slowly over time. If it takes a few more minutes to adjust the height I don't care. If I won't get the precision I need then that would concern me.

Also I am unsure where to locate the router plate. It seems most tables have them in the middle. This would give me 12" from the router bit to the front edge of the table. Is this enough to do kitchen cabinet and furniture work? I realize if I locate it further back it will be harder to do the under table router adjustment and at some point there won't enough room for the fence. I am planning to use a Woodpecker Super Fence possibly with the micro adjuster. I do have some back issues so reaching under the table to adjust the router could be problematic.

Thanks


----------



## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Joel
I preferr the router in the back 1/3 of the table leaving more room to the front.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Joel I had my PC690 fastened under my table saws extension without a plate and I never found it to be much of an issue changing it's height at all . 
I don't know if I'd even bother with another layer attached to the mdf top . Each to his own of course


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Joel , I will get a picture and measurement off my Incra table tomorrow for you . It may be apples to oranges as my tables 27" wide and 43" deep, but it may give you an idea where to start


----------



## jnbrown (Apr 14, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Joel I had my PC690 fastened under my table saws extension without a plate and I never found it to be much of an issue changing it's height at all .
> I don't know if I'd even bother with another layer attached to the mdf top . Each to his own of course


I have heard MDF gets damaged easily if you spill water or liquids on it.
Also the white board makes it easier to see what you are doing and has smother surface. I have heard of people putting various finishes on MDF like danish or tung oil but would rather not do that. I am groping my way through this and will probably run into some problems along the way. Thanks for all who responded.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Semipro said:


> Joel
> I preferr the router in the back 1/3 of the table leaving more room to the front.


and to the left 1/3rd...


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

jnbrown said:


> I have heard MDF gets damaged easily if you spill water or liquids on it.
> .


Well don't drink beer while your routing , especially whiskey  j/k 

I agree white may be beneficial although my Incra router plate is gold. You could also use a piece of melamine and build a torsion box underneath . I'm just concerned about layers and the router plate fit is all


----------



## jnbrown (Apr 14, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Well don't drink beer while your routing , especially whiskey  j/k
> 
> I agree white may be beneficial although my Incra router plate is gold. You could also use a piece of melamine and build a torsion box underneath . I'm just concerned about layers and the router plate fit is all


I drink red wine, one glass won't hurt.
I agree with your concern. When I just lay the white board on top it seems pretty flat.
I plane to use a grid of screws on 6" centers to hold it down. and maybe some more around the edge of the plate. If it doesn't work I can always take it off. I do have a box a made from poplar to support the MDF. Here is a picture of what I have so far:


----------



## jnbrown (Apr 14, 2013)




----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If you might want to make kitchen cupboard doors someday then a 690 sized router might be a little small. The cheapest way to go is to not have to replace your setup later because it is inadequate for what you need to do at the time. My personal opinion would be to get a plunge router with at least 2 1/2 hp. The plunge doesn't need a lift and many are now adjustable from above the table. I only held mine down in the table with gravity so I could lift it out in seconds and use it as a plunge if I needed. The insert plate acts like an offset base giving the router more stability. Popping thwe router out of the table also makes bit changes really easy.

I also think that the router should be located around the 1/3- 2/3 location but I like to be able to work from both sides of my table. If I'm doing wide pieces I like to use that side and if I'm working on narrow pieces I like to stand on the short side as that makes it close and easier on my back. That eliminates Stick's suggestion of 1/3 to one side if you go my way unless you make 2 different fences.

The plunge router and offset table offered me the greatest amount of versatility from my equipment.


----------



## jnbrown (Apr 14, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> If you might want to make kitchen cupboard doors someday then a 690 sized router might be a little small. The cheapest way to go is to not have to replace your setup later because it is inadequate for what you need to do at the time. My personal opinion would be to get a plunge router with at least 2 1/2 hp. The plunge doesn't need a lift and many are now adjustable from above the table. I only held mine down in the table with gravity so I could lift it out in seconds and use it as a plunge if I needed. The insert plate acts like an offset base giving the router more stability. Popping thwe router out of the table also makes bit changes really easy.
> 
> I also think that the router should be located around the 1/3- 2/3 location but I like to be able to work from both sides of my table. If I'm doing wide pieces I like to use that side and if I'm working on narrow pieces I like to stand on the short side as that makes it close and easier on my back. That eliminates Stick's suggestion of 1/3 to one side if you go my way unless you make 2 different fences.
> 
> The plunge router and offset table offered me the greatest amount of versatility from my equipment.


The Bosch 1617 that a lot of people recommended is 2-1/4 HP. Do think that will be enough? I have not decided if the doors will be raised panel or not. Are you recommending 2-1/2 HP due to the larger size of the raised panel bits?
Which plunge routers do you like that have above table adjustment?
I think I read some good things about Triton, how about this one at 3.25 HP?
Its only $50 more than the Bosch

Triton 3.25 HP Dual Mode Plunge Router-TRA001 at The Home Depot

It might a bit big and heavy to use out of the table but I can keep my PC690 for that.

Thanks


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I never understood the removing the plate part to change a bit . I give my PC690 a rotation and the motor drops out of the base . I just can't see it being much easier than that . 
Of course I am referring to my 690 , others may vary . 

And obviously I didn't have the centre rings to change to different sizes either as I just cut the hole big enough to accommodate my biggest router bit . I do have a plate now though for my future table


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Joel I am referring to bits like raised panel bits which are typically 3 1/2" in diameter but I also have some large round over bits, the largest is 1 1/2" radius and they require a lot of power to run also. Many members have made R.P. doors with the 1617 and even the 690 will do it by making progressively deeper passes and slowing feed speeds.

That model Triton is owned by quite a few members here and the majority of them say it is the best for the table. Some say it is a little top heavy and awkward for handheld use but it will still get the job done. Some jobs are best done with a plunge and and some can only be done safely with a plunge. You can rout anything with a plunge but you can't route everything with a fixed base. The Hitachi M12 V2 has above table adjustment, Milwaukee and Bosch have it, not sure about the Makita or DeWalts.

Rick, if you use a lift the router motor is clamped in and you have to raise the bit to change it. Most of the fixed bases are probably easy to remove like you do. In fact I mounted my old DeWalt and without thinking just released the clamp and it fell out of the base. Luckily, I was using a bench top table at the time.


----------



## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

jnbrown said:


> I am building my own router table. Progress has been very slow due to lack of time.
> So far I have a 24" x 36" MDF top screwed to a poplar box frame.
> I am planning to build this stand as it will work with the poplar frame and is low cost:
> 
> ...


i have the router work shop router table and the 3 fence's and never had a problum doing any router projuct. the plate is located off center to the left, and i have the routet plate from the same co. i have a bosch 1617 under the table and no problum , i just pop out the plate and change bit's and than pop the plate back in and use the set up bars for measure , i also have pc690's also but the bosch work's their, i leve it in , i have 4 router tables and router mounted just for project's , that way take's less time to do a project. check out the router shop table for the look's, good luck


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Charles..
I went w/ Porter-Cable 7518 Variable Speed 3-1/4 HP Motor mounted in a JessEm lift... 
wish I'd done it forever ago... (the lift and motor w/ an attitude)
Had Stanley and Ingersoll Rand motors to use but I could not find a lift that could take these gorilla motors... Motors were way too large or the HP's were too much...
But...
I was experiencing bearing failures w/ the PC's, twice w/ catastrophic collateral damage to the armatures and fields and no support from PC because I'd let it be known that I was a commercial shop...
grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.....
the one motor I had left, out of six, I changed the bearings out for 30,000+ RPM ceramics all seems to be right in the world again...
motor dB's dropped noticeably and run out disappeared... their version of smooth became the smoothest as in night and day differences...
sad part is that PC installs inadequate bearings in their routers.. (a fact that has just come to light to me) I know it now, they knew it then and I still got a TS sing song story from them... W/ the issues PC puts up on the table right out of the box - Let's just say they aren't very high up on faves list... 

FWIW.. The Hitachi M12 and DeWalts can't/won't/don't make it in a production environment... Ryobie and Sears aren't even contenders... I know this for proven fact and planned obsolescence seems to be primary w/ DeWalt and Sears... 
Can't say about the Milwaukee's or Triton's but from what I've read about the Triton's that little voice in the head raised some doubts so I never went there...
Bosch and Makita do very well.. But, I believe the Bosch to be a better, friendlier and smoother functioning router over the Makita... Bosch's endurance has everyone else beat hands down... that' for sure... they may not be bullet proof but they have given me the best return for my money and the bottom line.. I'm still using Bosch routers and tools that are decades old... 
The Milwaukee owners I know never speak ill of them...
Of all those routers Bosch and Milwaukee QS pales the rest...


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Interesting about the PC bearings Stick. I just replaced the bearings in a PC 1/4 pad and 5" ROS. Both failed at roughly the same time. At first I thought it was brushes since the rpm was erratic. You can buy 10 of the bearings for either one for less than $8 off ebay from China. I don't think they could have possibly gone any cheaper on them.

I have used the Makita in a production environment and although it is a good router it isn't my favorite. I haven't had a chance to use a Bosch but I know they are good. I don't use mine that way so the Hitachis are working for me, I have 3 of them. Good price and 5 yr warranty and they are nice to use. By the time I wear them out there won't be parts for them anymore anyway.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Geez I hope I don't have bearing issues with my PC7518


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Interesting about the PC bearings Stick. I just replaced the bearings in a PC 1/4 pad and 5" ROS. Both failed at roughly the same time. At first I thought it was brushes since the rpm was erratic. You can buy 10 of the bearings for either one for less than $8 off ebay from China. I don't think they could have possibly gone any cheaper on them.
> 
> I have used the Makita in a production environment and although it is a good router it isn't my favorite. I haven't had a chance to use a Bosch but I know they are good. I don't use mine that way so the Hitachi's are working for me, I have 3 of them. Good price and 5 yr warranty and they are nice to use. By the time I wear them out there won't be parts for them anymore anyway.


Same here on the Makitas....
don't know about the PC sanders, haven't any.. I have Bosch, Milwaukee and Makita...
one thing about PC tools, when they were American made they were pretty good...
I do know that DeWalts are a very poor investment... 
that stupid nylon disk they have in them is one seriously crappy design...
DeWalt says it's a wear item.. wanna buy replacements??? 
gets old after several replacements a year then have the tool belly up after only a year... 
the replacement after only a few months... 
We're done DeWalt...

at the distributors which is before wholesale.. 
90 cents to 3 bucks for OEM PC...
Bosch - 3 to 6 bucks....
ceramics - 4 to 7 bucks...
USA made...
FWIW I'm paying about 28% mark up...
at retail, the sellers should be ashamed of themselves....
wonder what tool manufacturers pay...

I think I'll look into who uses who's bearings and where they are made...
might be good to know...

another issue I have w/ PC is their lack of concentric motor to base alignment which can puppy the finer points/aesthetics of a project... sorry it took me so long to figure the whys to that one out which was verified by a PC rep after the fact of course... grrrrrrrrr........


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"another issue I have w/ PC is their _lack of concentric motor to base alignment_ which can puppy the finer points/aesthetics of a project..."

And their rational for that? That seems inexcusable to me, unless I'm missing something(?).


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> "another issue I have w/ PC is their _lack of concentric motor to base alignment_ which can puppy the finer points/aesthetics of a project..."
> 
> And their rational for that? That seems inexcusable to me, unless I'm missing something(?).


cost less manufacturing..

limited to no machining on their bases.. 
straight from the mold to assembly...

test your tools...
learn their pluses/quirks/shortcomings... 
live with it, return it to the place of purchase or get the tool's CS department to make it right....
if all of us did more of this the overall quality will improve...
it'd have to in this sink or swim dog eat dog world...


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

When my last PC died (bearing failure), I bought the Milwaukee 5625-20 for my table router and never looked back. It supports above table adjustment.
The Milwaukee is dedicated for table use.

Rick and I both use a Festool OF1400 for plunge routing but not something I would recommend for double duty, although I have seen it done.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick are you saying the motors rotor moves up and down in it's housing (I'm not referring to it moving in it's base ) 

If so that's bad 


I bought the motor only as it's going in a lift


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Don't mean to beat this to death, Stick, but I'm curious as to what the exact problem is. In this picture Porter Cable Product Details for 3-1/4 HP (Maximum Motor HP) Five-Speed Router - Model # 7518 are you referring to the interior of the base's vertical column? The part that actually contacts the motor housing?


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Stick are you saying the motors rotor moves up and down in it's housing (I'm not referring to it moving in it's base )
> 
> If so that's bad
> I bought the motor only as it's going in a lift


no...


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Don't mean to beat this to death, Stick, but I'm curious as to what the exact problem is. In this picture Porter Cable Product Details for 3-1/4 HP (Maximum Motor HP) Five-Speed Router - Model # 7518 are you referring to the interior of the base's vertical column? The part that actually contacts the motor housing?


that's the one I'm taking about...
What I have to say is about the new 7518's and not the older American made ones...

*1st issue*

put a centering point in the router...
set the router up against a clamped on edge guide 
you are not using a router mounted edge guide for this test...
spin/rotate entire the router around 360º while it's up against the edge guide...
the router doesn't even need to be plugged in....
observe where the CP indicates the center of the router is...
you'll find that it moves elliptically...
it's not because the base isn't round it's because the CL of the motor isn't centered in the base to it's self... 
The CL of the motor and CL of the base are offset ever so slightly...

the router that was flagrant about this and that got my full attention was offset 5/64"...
have you ever wondered why you need to center the guide bushings to the CL of the motor???
PC told me I must have dropped the router and were happy to sell me another base for 85$$$... plus shipping...
since I still have the two bases from the catastrophically failed routers I swapped out the bases/motor...
same issues only not as bad but, the measures were different on each swap but the offset is still there... hmmmmmmm...
that tells me a lot... like that huge hole in the base that receives the motor is offset for starters...
so that motor got new ceramic bearings and lives in the JessEm lift...

*2nd issue...*

install a 1/2" drill rod into the router...
longer is better..
measure/test the motor to the base for perpendicular squareness...
it isn't.....
so not only is that hole for the motor offset it's at a slight angle...

*3rd issue*

install a 1/2x6" drill blank... 
turn the router on...
what you see is run out because of the bearings...

so much for QC...

the motor having inadequate bearings and the base being poorly done just doesn't make/cut it...
the defects in the base aren't even consistent for crying out loud..
swapping bases and motors all show the same issues but measure differently... 
My four American made 690's haven't got these issues.. nor do the two American made R2D2 looking ones...

The PR department for PC says these are production routers... Right.. can you just feel/touch the sarcasm...

Metalworking Tools - Drills, End Mills, Taps, Machines, Measuring Tools, Abrasives, Power Tools and MRO Supplies | Travers Tool
http://www.travers.com/jobbers-leng...rch=block id 34987 and class level3 id 297780


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well I guess I'm out another 500 bucks and tax .'good thing I never ordered a lift yet. 
So Stick what do you recommend for a router?


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Well I guess I'm out another 500 bucks and tax .'good thing I never ordered a lift yet.
> So Stick what do you recommend for a router?


change the bearings and stick the motor in a JessEm lift...
they go together well...

http://jessem.com/index.html

http://jessem.com/MAST-R-LIFT_II.html


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick I wanted to go with an Incra lift as I have there table and there clean sweep inserts . I think the same company makes both ? 

I just checked my pc75182 and the collet was perfectly centred to it's chassis when I checked with my callipers . I would have to remove the back section in order to gain access to the rear of the rotor to check if it's centred but I hate to disassemble it for nothing other than piece of mind . 
If the bearings become an issue and are replaceable I can live with that. 

Stick , could that have been a bad run?


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick here's a bosch and it's reasonably priced . Not sure if it works in a lift yet though

http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00004TKHV?tag=price0019_ca-20&m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Check with the manufacturer of the lift Rick. Most of the ones I've looked at have several different clamp rings that will fit motors of differing diameters. They will indicate which popular routers each fits and you have to order accordingly.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Check with the manufacturer of the lift Rick. Most of the ones I've looked at have several different clamp rings that will fit motors of differing diameters. They will indicate which popular routers each fits and you have to order accordingly.


Good point Charles . Hopefully the Incra lift I want does both just incase I'm not satisfied with the PC7518 results .
Not even sure if those bosch fit in a lift , and there less power unless you get the one that's a plunge for under table mounting


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well good news it fits several . The V2 is not available in Canada so I'm opting for the the lower model 


INCRA Mast-R-Lift II Compatibility:

Also improved on the Mast-R-Lift II: the new carriage design accommodates a wide variety of routers without the need for adaptors. The four aluminum clamping blocks are simply repositioned on the carriage plate when changing from one model of router to the other. 

Just one model of router lift will accept all of these routers:
Porter Cable 7518, 690-699 series, & 890-899 series
Bosch 1617EVS,1618
DeWalt DW610 & DW618
Makita RF1101 & RD1101
Hitachi M12VC & KM12VC
Milwaukee 5625, 5615, 5616, & 5619
Craftsman 17543, 17540, & 28190
Ridgid R29302


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Joel sorry for side tracking your thread but my uncle Stick got me all depressed 

Here's some pics of measurements if it helps any


----------



## jnbrown (Apr 14, 2013)

Turns out the Triton router is out of stock until the end of this month which is ok because I won't need it that soon. One online store told me they had back orders for 20 of them.
In the mean time I tried gluing a small piece of the white board to the MDF with Titebond III. The back of the white board seems to be MDF or similar material and I was worried because some things I read said wood glue won't work with MDF. I applied pressure while it was drying with some bricks and other heavy objects. It seems to have adhered pretty well. I wanted to avoid using contact cement because of the volatile toxic fumes. Now I am trying to decide what to do with with edges of the MDF. I read about using various substances like shellac, paste wax and glue. I was thinking about gluing hardwood edging on it but I am not trying to create a work of art, just a tool. Since I have wood glue handy I am going to experiment with that. Maybe I just leave them bare but worried about them absorbing moisture.


----------



## jnbrown (Apr 14, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Joel sorry for side tracking your thread but my uncle Stick got me all depressed
> 
> Here's some pics of measurements if it helps any


Thanks for the pics, but I don't understand what the benefit is to offset it along the long edge of the table. Maybe you can explain.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Just guessing here Joel but I think the offset would help by getting more material on the table to help line it up , hold it steady etc , on narrower tables that is . 
I mean the most important part would be the cut at the bit , after that it's being out fed , so I guess after the cut it would be less critical .
I'm just learning myself


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Joel I haven't heard of that glue . I used WeldBond glue with mdf when I built subwoofer boxes . Stuff is incredibly strong with no odour . Although I wouldn't recommend it , it doesn't taste bad either . ( no I didn't intentionally put it in my mouth)


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Most glues will stick to mdf. I like to rough the surface up a little to give the glue a little more to grip to.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Stick I wanted to go with an Incra lift as I have there table and there clean sweep inserts . I think the same company makes both ?
> 
> I just checked my pc75182 and the collet was perfectly centred to it's chassis when I checked with my callipers . I would have to remove the back section in order to gain access to the rear of the rotor to check if it's centred but I hate to disassemble it for nothing other than piece of mind .
> If the bearings become an issue and are replaceable I can live with that.
> ...


no idea on the same manufactures...

bad run??? DIIK...


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Stick here's a Bosch and it's reasonably priced . Not sure if it works in a lift yet though
> 
> http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00004TKHV?tag=price0019_ca-20&m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB


yes it does...
but you can use the base on that one as the lift...


----------



## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

jnbrown said:


> I am building my own router table. Progress has been very slow due to lack of time.
> So far I have a 24" x 36" MDF top screwed to a poplar box frame.
> I am planning to build this stand as it will work with the poplar frame and is low cost:
> 
> ...


JN
You have picked a good plan for your router table. The legs are a bit of over kill but the weight might be nice. The fence is good and you really don't need much more than that one. 

Some position the router so you can have a large table on one side and a short table on the back side. Most items ran on a table router are narrow and long. 

I have a router lift that makes the router table very easy to use. It's shop built and can be made with scraps in your shop. It's very accurate and and I believe it's much better than lifts you can buy. Paying hundreds of dollars for a lift to me seems crazy and I'd put this lift up against any on the market. The cost to build is less than $15. 

I'd like to post a picture of it here but I'm posting from a IPad and for some reason I can't upload pictures. If your interested, send me a message and I'll send pictures from my PC at home.

Al


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Al I watched a video on building your own router lift and if I had nothing but time on my hands and even less of a life than I already have I'd almost consider it .


----------



## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

*You aint seen nuttin yet*



RainMan1 said:


> Al I watched a video on building your own router lift and if I had nothing but time on my hands and even less of a life than I already have I'd almost consider it .


My lift can be built in about 3 hrs. Its better than other lifts in many ways. Cost for the lift is a fraction of the cost of a store bought. I'm selling plans soon. I have not seen a shop built lift better or easier to build than mine.

How would you like to have a lift that holds the router in the vertical and horizontal positions. Bet you haven't seen that in a video.

Al


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Al B Thayer said:


> My lift can be built in about 3 hrs. Its better than other lifts in many ways. Cost for the lift is a fraction of the cost of a store bought. I'm selling plans soon. I have not seen a shop built lift better or easier to build than mine.
> 
> How would you like to have a lift that holds the router in the vertical and horizontal positions. Bet you haven't seen that in a video.
> 
> Al


Cool stuff Al . Please don't take me the wrong way , I just have so much on my plate and can't take on another project without a mental breakdown . 
I seen a video and geez I wouldn't really consider it a cake walk . But it was built into a table that would flip up for router bit changes . That concept I really liked!


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Al B Thayer said:


> My lift can be built in about 3 hrs. Its better than other lifts in many ways. Cost for the lift is a fraction of the cost of a store bought. I'm selling plans soon. I have not seen a shop built lift better or easier to build than mine.
> 
> How would you like to have a lift that holds the router in the vertical and horizontal positions. Bet you haven't seen that in a video.
> 
> Al


Have you posted it before Al? I would like to see it and I'm sure other members would too.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

*Your not looking at my router lift.*



RainMan1 said:


> Cool stuff Al . Please don't take me the wrong way , I just have so much on my plate and can't take on another project without a mental breakdown .
> I seen a video and geez I wouldn't really consider it a cake walk . But it was built into a table that would flip up for router bit changes . That concept I really liked!


Your not looking at my design. It's far superior to any I have found. I've spent 2 years working out the details. It also, as I have stated. Positions the router in two planes. It has other units beat hands down. Accurate for a life time. 

Al


----------



## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

*Well.....*



Cherryville Chuck said:


> Have you posted it before Al? I would like to see it and I'm sure other members would too.


Chuck I've tried to get some advise on posting oils from an iPad but haven't worked it out. 

I'm selling very detailed, simple to understand and easy build plans very soon. (DVD) If I show case it before they are complete I might be shooting myself in the foot. 

I'd like to post a pic but most times I'm on this site on my pad so I can't post a pic. But soon enough it will be out for anyone to build. Most guys can build it with wood and parts they already have collecting dust in their shop. But there are about $6 worth of nuts bolts and screws to purchase. If someone wants a really great lift that takes every annoying aspect out of using a router table. This is the best way to go. It switch hits too. Veritcal or horizontal in less that 2 minutes. Maybe 1. Most lifts aren't made to quickly remove the router. 

Al


----------

