# My first try at a portable table with sled



## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

Well this is my first try at something like this and I kind of just improvised as I went along. I was hoping for some feed back, what I did wrong, what I did right, and maybe some ideas for next time. Thanks in advance for your help. I have a few more pictures if you need to see more please let me know. I'm really looking forward to everyone's thoughts, and advice. I did want to say that I know the MDF should have been laminated, but it just wasn't in my budget for this project. I did put three coats of Minwax Finishing paste on all surfaces to seal it up as best I could and make a nice smooth slick surface.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Well done.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Nicely done...

one question, though...have you found the 3/4 material for the sled base plus plate thickness to give you a problem setting the bit heights as high as you would like...?


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

Nickp said:


> Nicely done...
> 
> one question, though...have you found the 3/4 material for the sled base plus plate thickness to give you a problem setting the bit heights as high as you would like...?


Actually with my router (Dewalt DW616) I'm able to get the collet above the plate by about 1/4" so, so far no issues. However in hindsight I would use 1/2" in place of the 3/4".


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

Don't let your wife know you're going to use that in the bedroom. She might make you sleep in a sawdust bin in the garage.


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

*Lol!!*



mgdesigns said:


> Don't let your wife know you're going to use that in the bedroom. She might make you sleep in a sawdust bin in the garage.


 It's funny you say that, because I routed the slots for the "t" track while it was in the room, having never routed MDF, I was unaware of the mess it creates. When I finished and picked my head I almost passed out. My wife did!!! Unfortunately I don't have a garage, this room serves as my little shop, my office, and after a weeks notice the guest bedroom. Maybe someday I'll hit the lottery.


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## ksidwy (Jul 13, 2013)

Wow! very nice done!!
Sid


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

I love the design work you have done. You did a great job putting it together. I particularly like your custom coping sled.

My only advice is to use birch plywood instead of MDF (the dust is also hazardous to your families health) or solid wood next time. FAR more stable over the long run and if you use only one material, if it does expand or contract, it will be consistent throughout the design. You also avoid the mess.

Also, avoid fasteners when possible for work surfaces. They can warp the surface and\or cause dimpling. Glue is the way to go.

Thanks for sharing. You do good work.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Excellent job Mike. About laminating and coating both sides: your kitchen counter top is only laminated on one side to 5/8 or 3/4 particle board, and it is attached to the frame with screws. There is possibly another one like it in the bath room, the two most humid rooms in the house. Your router table should be just fine.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

mbar57 said:


> It's funny you say that, because I routed the slots for the "t" track while it was in the room, having never routed MDF, I was unaware of the mess it creates. When I finished and picked my head I almost passed out. My wife did!!! Unfortunately I don't have a garage, this room serves as my little shop, my office, and after a weeks notice the guest bedroom. Maybe someday I'll hit the lottery.


Excellent work.

As Brad pointed out, be EXTREMELY careful when working with MDF! The dust is very hazardous and requires excellent dust collection and a face mask is mandatory. Be sure to vacuum that room carefully.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Very nice Mike... very good job, especially for the first one. I'm sure you will get much use and enjoyment from it. And then, you will build another... and include all the things you thought of AFTER you finished this one, and leave out all the things you put in that you don't use. Just the natural progression of things.


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

WOW!!! This is great. I haven't had very good experiences on forums. Thank all of you so much for your feedback!! Believe me it is truly appreciated and will be put to good use.


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## ride2nite (Apr 8, 2015)

Nice job Mike. I like the cam hold downs for the fence. Where did you purchase them? Never tried routing in the bedroom. was it good for you?


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

IN THE BEDROOM... ! ? ! ? Your wife is a keeper...please the lady...apply for sainthood for her...discover a new star...something...

Or at least sleep with one eye open...


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

ride2nite said:


> Nice job Mike. I like the cam hold downs for the fence. Where did you purchase them? Never tried routing in the bedroom. was it good for you?


LMAO!!! Yeah it was great, and yes you are correct, my wife is a keeper!! I got the Cam Hold Downs at Wood Craft. Buy Cam Action Hold Down at Woodcraft.com


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## cffellows (Aug 23, 2009)

Looks pretty complete and well made to me. Don't seen anything I would change. Do you expect to use all those features on a regular basis? I have pretty limited shop space, so I generally keep things small and simple. But I have to admit, having the features available when you need them is mighty convenient.

Chuck


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

cffellows said:


> Looks pretty complete and well made to me. Don't seen anything I would change. Do you expect to use all those features on a regular basis? I have pretty limited shop space, so I generally keep things small and simple. But I have to admit, having the features available when you need them is mighty convenient.
> 
> Chuck


Thanks Chuck!! Yes I do use all the features regularly, honestly I didn't really think that there were many. If you think your space is limited, take a look at the pictures and read some of the other posts.:smile: The pictures mat be deceiving the table is only 22"w;16"d; and 14"high so it's quite small.


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## JJ.the.Dane (Dec 27, 2011)

Nicely done. One thing I would have done a little different, though, is the upper plate of the dust collection chamber. If you had put that on top of the rear fence, you would not have had such a large gap that reduces your effectiveness of the vacuum system.


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## rchlyosi (Jun 2, 2011)

It looks well congratulations.

But in the bedroom? Too dangerous dust.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Very COOL!

Great Job! Well Done!

Thank you!


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## IpsissimusMarr (Nov 20, 2013)

Awesome job on the table! I made my first router table a few months ago using a laminated tabletop my work was throwing out. Currently I routed a dual channel track (T-Track and Miter slot combo) the length of the table. But I also want 2 parallel T-Tracks for the fence like your table. Currently I only have one of the 2 routed and I am afraid to route the second since I cannot come up with a way to ensure they are in fact parallel. Right now I have not yet mounted the tracks in the slots, they are just friction fitted.

So my question is, how did you make sure the 2 T-Tracks are parallel?


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

IpsissimusMarr said:


> Awesome job on the table! I made my first router table a few months ago using a laminated tabletop my work was throwing out. Currently I routed a dual channel track (T-Track and Miter slot combo) the length of the table. But I also want 2 parallel T-Tracks for the fence like your table. Currently I only have one of the 2 routed and I am afraid to route the second since I cannot come up with a way to ensure they are in fact parallel. Right now I have not yet mounted the tracks in the slots, they are just friction fitted.
> 
> So my question is, how did you make sure the 2 T-Tracks are parallel?


Well I wish I had some really technical, intellectual, and impressive answer, but I don't. The slot for the miter was done on a buddies TS, the "t" track was an after thought and I simply squared up a straight edge and routed them out. I guess sometimes it's better to be lucky than good!!


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

Well I don't know anything about the table or the fence that you need to make parallel T-track cuts in, but it occurs to me that if the T-tracks were just slightly out of parallel, that you could just make the bolt holes in the fence oblong to compensate for any out of parallel alignment. I doubt it would have to be very much because I'm sure that the out of parallel alignment wouldn't be more than 1/16. I would just square it up, measure corner to corner on the lines to check squareness, clamp a straight edge on to follow with the router and lay it to it.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

IpsissimusMarr said:


> Awesome job on the table! I made my first router table a few months ago using a laminated tabletop my work was throwing out. Currently I routed a dual channel track (T-Track and Miter slot combo) the length of the table. But I also want 2 parallel T-Tracks for the fence like your table. Currently I only have one of the 2 routed and I am afraid to route the second since I cannot come up with a way to ensure they are in fact parallel. Right now I have not yet mounted the tracks in the slots, they are just friction fitted.
> 
> So my question is, how did you make sure the 2 T-Tracks are parallel?


Make a plywood jig the width you want to offset the tracks, compensating for your router plate.

Lay a straight edge\speed clamp on the first track.
Draw a line where you want the cut edge starts.
Measure that distance and subtract the distance from the bit you want to use and the plate of the router.
Make a wood jig that distance.
Now just use the jig to set another straight edge that will be the guide for the router. The jig will insure that the new reference guide for the router is parrallel. 

I use this type of jig with the router and circular saw all the time and I have one made for each.


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## Back2Basics (May 3, 2015)

Very Nicely Done!


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

Very nice work Mike. Since you've asked for suggestions:

Put miter cuts on the 'bit facing' ends of the fence faces to capture a replaceable sacrificial block for zero-clearance. (I can post a pic if that's not clear)
Make your bolts for the face adjustment long enough to accommodate a stack of shims for progressively deeper cuts. I use 1/8" hardboard for these shims. Just set the fence for your final depth, add 3 or 4 shims to both faces and make a shallow pass. Then remove the shims one pair at a time and take another pass. I also picked up some thin plastic cutting board (about .020" thick) to offset the out-feed fence face for jointing.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

IpsissimusMarr said:


> Awesome job on the table! I made my first router table a few months ago using a laminated tabletop my work was throwing out. Currently I routed a dual channel track (T-Track and Miter slot combo) the length of the table. But I also want 2 parallel T-Tracks for the fence like your table. Currently I only have one of the 2 routed and I am afraid to route the second since I cannot come up with a way to ensure they are in fact parallel. Right now I have not yet mounted the tracks in the slots, they are just friction fitted.
> 
> So my question is, how did you make sure the 2 T-Tracks are parallel?


*Very Simple!*

*Insert a strip of wood into the existing Slot* and *use IT* *to Guide* a Rectangular *Router Plate while cutting the Second groove.*


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## Professorss (Sep 7, 2012)

I wouldn't use mdf unless it was laminated to 1-1/2" because it is relatively fragile in the vertical direction. For example, if you sat on anything loner than 2 or 3 feet, it would crack. In width and length though, it is extremely stable. It is used as a substrate in some very fine furniture. If the combine thicknesses of table and sled prevent easy bit changes, there is a collet extension device that solves the problem. Getting back to material selection, full lamination is not necessary. You can stabilize theMDF in the vertical by securing battens to the underside, like joists under a floor. 

While your sled displays fine craftsmanship, I haven't figured what to do with it or how.


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

Ratbob said:


> Very nice work Mike. Since you've asked for suggestions:
> 
> Put miter cuts on the 'bit facing' ends of the fence faces to capture a replaceable sacrificial block for zero-clearance. (I can post a pic if that's not clear)
> Make your bolts for the face adjustment long enough to accommodate a stack of shims for progressively deeper cuts. I use 1/8" hardboard for these shims. Just set the fence for your final depth, add 3 or 4 shims to both faces and make a shallow pass. Then remove the shims one pair at a time and take another pass. I also picked up some thin plastic cutting board (about .020" thick) to offset the out-feed fence face for jointing.


 I love it!! I understand what your saying, but would still love to see the picture. Thank you.


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

Professorss said:


> I wouldn't use mdf unless it was laminated to 1-1/2" because it is relatively fragile in the vertical direction. For example, if you sat on anything loner than 2 or 3 feet, it would crack. In width and length though, it is extremely stable. It is used as a substrate in some very fine furniture. If the combine thicknesses of table and sled prevent easy bit changes, there is a collet extension device that solves the problem. Getting back to material selection, full lamination is not necessary. You can stabilize theMDF in the vertical by securing battens to the underside, like joists under a floor.
> 
> While your sled displays fine craftsmanship, I haven't figured what to do with it or how.


 I'll see how this one works. The top is laminated to 1", and I do have stiffeners screwed to the underside. I'm hoping that because of the small size this will be enough.
As for the sled I use it to rout the ends of small pieces. Put the piece between the block and the one that slides close it, tighten the knobs. Then I use the toggle clamps to hold the piece down. The lexan hangs out past the edge of the sled so I can use that to follow along the fence.


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

mbar57 said:


> I love it!! I understand what your saying, but would still love to see the picture. Thank you.


You can see it in the middle of the fence in this picture, or you can play with my SketchUp model here.

Another thing I plan to add shortly is a 2 1/4" vertical hole in the router table on the out-feed side in line with the bit. Routing dados or slots will shoot the dust straight over the hole and the ShopVac will suck it right down.


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

Here's a closer look, with the new dust port added.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

That sounds utterly brilliant, and I will probably be doing the same thing to mine.


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

Jeff, that is brilliant!!! This will be done first thing tomorrow when I get on the job. Luck would have it this would have made a cut I had to make today soooo much easier. Thanks a million. I need to get this sketch up. I have Autodesk, which is a great CAD program and free if you just sign up as student, but this seems to be geared more towards the things I would like.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Great job, Mike!
Your wife lets you do what where?! In about 48 States that's grounds for Justifiable Homicide...lol


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

mbar57 said:


> Jeff, that is brilliant!!! This will be done first thing tomorrow when I get on the job. Luck would have it this would have made a cut I had to make today soooo much easier. Thanks a million. I need to get this sketch up. I have Autodesk, which is a great CAD program and free if you just sign up as student, but this seems to be geared more towards the things I would like.


Thanks Mike, wish I could take credit but it's just one of the many things I found crawling around the web. I agree, it's a brilliant idea.

AutoCad is a far superior mechanical drawing program, though I've never used it for 3D modeling. SketchUp is free (unless you're using it to make money), and there's loads of free models available on line that you can include in your drawing! There's lots of video tutorials available so the ramp-up is not too bad. I've only been using it for about 3 months, and it's remarkably easy to capture an idea and refine it into something you can build.


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## Professorss (Sep 7, 2012)

Thanks. I built one myself a long time ago. It worked but was primitive. That's probably why I didn't recognize your sled. I've since moved toward old hand tools, so the router is less relied upon.


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## adcolor (Sep 27, 2011)

Nice work and good ideas. A 45 degree puck is a great sacrificial piece. So much less tear out that way. I know, dated entry. It's really not that important (except to the guy doing it) to have precisely parallel T tracks for a router -- there is only point that matters, and that is measuring perpendicular from the face of the fence to the far edge of the router bit. As a single face rotary cutting edge that is all that determines the cut. As someone already mentioned, make the bolt hold downs slightly larger and you are good to go.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike and Jeff you guys certainly do great work ! I was hoping to give you guys a little competition in the future but now I'm concerned


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

I've got to find my waders, it's gettin' deep in here!!


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