# Using a Router to Make Flutes/Perfect CylindersRound



## Flutemaker (Aug 18, 2012)

I make flutes as a hobby. I use a lathe and bore the 1 1/2" square by 30" blank that I start with. (usually 1 1/2" but can be other sizes too). I bore them either 3/4" or 7/8" using a gundril. Afterwards I need to turn the blanks to the shape of a flute...cylinder shape .. Anyhow I have heard someone say they use a roundover bit with a post or bearing on the end of it and it works a lot quicker and easier than turning them on the lathe...On the lathe takes a lot of turn and measure , turn and measure etc..I have tried this in the past and I cant work it out. Another guy I know has made a jig to hold his router while on the lathe and does his while on the lathe...Lathe isnt running...Just rough it out on the lathe and then make the last few passes with the router to bring the length to a perfect cylinder...much more perfect cylinder and consistent...Anyone ever did anything like this ???? Thanks !!!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Mike, this is the same as making dowels from square stock. Your wood must be longer than the finished piece to provide support at each end but not a difficult task. 4 passes and you have your finished shape. No bearing is required for this, a roundover bit that will leave the proper diameter installed in a table with a fence is the solution.


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## Flutemaker (Aug 18, 2012)

Thanks Mike,
Now if I start with 1 1/2" stock and it has a 7/8" bore down the middle of it and the walls of the flute are 1/4" what size bit would I use ? Actually some of the flutes taper from a 1/4" to 1/8" but if I had them 1/4" I could go from their...Maybe if I got them a 1/4" I could then switch to the next smallet size and taper it? (if their is a router bit that close to the first one to just take a small amount off?) If I could do this that would help a lottttttttt!!!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

7/8" + 1/4" on each side = 1-3/8" diameter. To get this you would need an 11/16" roundover bit which is not standard. If you could manage with a slightly thinner wall(7/32") then a 5/8" roundover bit would work. You would have to cut your stock down to 1-1/4" x 1-1/4".


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## Flutemaker (Aug 18, 2012)

Ok I think I got it now Thanks. I can work that out!!!


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I used to make arrows and came up with a simple way to make the dowels. I took a washer that had the center hole the size I needed. I cut the washer in half and put a sharp edge on side of the center making a cutting tool out of it. I then mounted the two halves of the washer in two short lengths of of wood and hinged the wood together. To cut the dowel I mounted the square piece of wood in a arbor attached to an old electric motor, similar to using the chuck on a lathe. I turned on the motor and put the "cutter" around the square dowel stock. Moving the cutter down the dowel stock and outting pressure on the handles gave me a nice even dowel.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I've made a batch of round sculptire type mallets on my lathe, various woods, so various weights. Decided to speed thing up a bit with the last one I made. Put a chunk of wood in the lathe, roughed it round with my hand power planer, with the lathe running. Boy, you talke about making it round fast. :dance3: Loads of fun, and wood shavings everywhere, but not great for finish turning. Been contemplating making a jig, so I could just set the planer on that, then slide it back and forth, giving me a finished mallet in less than 30 seconds. But haven't done it, because I have all the mallets I need. No worries about knots either, like you'd have to watch for with a regular lathe tool, the planer is turning at something like 27,000 RPM and goes thru knots just as smoothly as it goes thru the wood.

However, I would think it wouldn't be too difficult to make a jig similar to that for flues, doing it with a router. You'd ruin a few, getting a correct jig, but I find that part fun too. If you find a profile that works, and I don't see why you couldn't, then you'd be stuck with that profile, unless you made another jig. Oh yes, all of this would be with the lathe running, same as when I roughed out my mallet.

Hmmm, on second thought, maybe you shouldn't try this at home. I've had a fair amount of experience doing stuff like this, so know what will hurt me (so I don't do those things), and what won't hurt me (and those things I often do).


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Mike, there was an episode of the Router Workshop where Bob and Rick made a jig for rounding a planter I think. Do you remember it? They had it rotate on 2 points (like a lathe would do) and I think the router slid back and forth on a trough above the workpiece. A jig like that would make a cylinder or a tapered cylinder if one end were higher than the other.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Yes Chuck and that jig worked like a champ. I suggested it for another member's problem but the amount of taper on the flute is so exacting and critical that I don't think it is the right choice for this job. Mike has a lathe and I think it would be easier to taper that way.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

There was I thinking that musical instrument flutes had parallel sides, certainly all the many that I've seen had. Not only did my granddaughter play flute but when I earned a living repairing esoteric Hi-Fi, several of my customers over time brought in their flutes, they liked to see the perfect sine wave produced by viewing on an oscilloscope.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Here is an interesting article on flute making, unfortunately Mike hasn't completed his public profile so I don't know if he has the necessary equipment or experience.
This is why it's important for new members to complete their public profile, so that answers are relevant.

http://www.mcgee-flutes.com/making.html


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## Flutemaker (Aug 18, 2012)

Ive know a guy that has made the router setup that goes above the lathe..He is still in experimental stages but it works great for him so far..I know another guy..a professional maker taht has all kind of tools but gets his best and truest flutes with jsut using the router table.. I have to do my profile ...That article look good. I have some of the same set up but mine is more of hobbyist but I do bore my flutes...Thanks !!..


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Flutemaker said:


> Ive know a guy that has made the router setup that goes above the lathe..He is still in experimental stages but it works great for him so far..I know another guy..a professional maker taht has all kind of tools but gets his best and truest flutes with jsut using the router table.. I have to do my profile ...That article look good. I have some of the same set up but mine is more of hobbyist but I do bore my flutes...Thanks !!..



Now that I know how well set up you are, how about a jig based loosely on this one of mine which is a work in progress and is intended to rout flutes on turned objects. The steel bar on the bottom is a perfect fit between the ways and slides along smoothly. The side knobs allow course height adjustment whilst the plunge router gives a wide range of fine adjustment. I may well make an opening in the rear so that the tail-stock can be utilised.


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## Flutemaker (Aug 18, 2012)

I love that. I will have to make one of those. I love making stuff like that. One of the guys I mentioned has a hole in the back of his for the tailstock and a hook up for a shop vac.. I will post some picks of my boring set up when I can. Thanks !!!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I hadn't thought of the dust extraction Mike but with a nice flexible pipe that will be a good addition, two heads are always better than one and the easiest thing in the world is to improve on an existing item.


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