# Router Bit Difficulty Removing



## 57759 (Apr 8, 2011)

I have an older craftsman router that takes 1/4 inch shank bits. More often than not it's difficult removing the bit from the collet (sp). Would it be advisable to apply some type of lubricant to the shank?


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## routafinger (Dec 30, 2009)

I also have an older Craftsman router, and the bits will not come out easily until the collet nut is loosened to the point where the nut will easily turn with just my fingers. After the initial loosening, there is a 2nd point where the nut feels like it breaks loose again. I don't know exactly what that feature is called, or why it's like that, but you have to actually feel the nut break loose with the wrench a 2nd time before the collet will release the bit. I hope this is your problem. I'm not sure you want any lube anywhere around a bit that spins at 20,000 rpm.


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## dave123ellen (Nov 12, 2010)

No NO NO
do not put anything on the bit . When you install the bit after it is in all the way bring it back up 1/16". That should help


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

routafinger said:


> I also have an older Craftsman router, and the bits will not come out easily until the collet nut is loosened to the point where the nut will easily turn with just my fingers. After the initial loosening, there is a 2nd point where the nut feels like it breaks loose again. I don't know exactly what that feature is called, or why it's like that, but you have to actually feel the nut break loose with the wrench a 2nd time before the collet will release the bit. I hope this is your problem. I'm not sure you want any lube anywhere around a bit that spins at 20,000 rpm.


Robert / Frank,
My Porter Cable 690 did the same thing with both the 1/4" and 1/2" collets. The reason mine did this is because it had set up for awhile, and the machined surfaces on the OD of the collet, and on the ID of the mating piece on the router shaft had some surface rust on them. Not much, only a few spots. This caused the collet not to be able to slide free when the collet nut was released, until the nut was unscrewed enough to "jack" the collet free, thus relieving the grip on the bit. Frank, this is the second release you referred to.

The way I corrected this was with my Dremel tool, buffing pad and some Flitz metal polish. It did not take long until I had a mirror finish on both collets and the mating pieces. I did apply a little oil to the OD of the the collet and the ID of the mating piece. I then wiped it off, because I only wanted a coating to protect from future rust.

Now when the nut breaks free, I can remove the bit with ease.

Darrin


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## routafinger (Dec 30, 2009)

darrink said:


> Robert / Frank,
> My Porter Cable 690 did the same thing with both the 1/4" and 1/2" collets. The reason mine did this is because it had set up for awhile, and the machined surfaces on the OD of the collet, and on the ID of the mating piece on the router shaft had some surface rust on them. Not much, only a few spots. This caused the collet not to be able to slide free when the collet nut was released, until the nut was unscrewed enough to "jack" the collet free, thus relieving the grip on the bit. Frank, this is the second release you referred to.
> 
> The way I corrected this was with my Dremel tool, buffing pad and some Flitz metal polish. It did not take long until I had a mirror finish on both collets and the mating pieces. I did apply a little oil to the OD of the the collet and the ID of the mating piece. I then wiped it off, because I only wanted a coating to protect from future rust.
> ...


I was trying to stress that the nut had to be backed off enough to reach that release point. I didn't find the ideal wording to say that, but I was thinking that SandBurRanch was not getting there because he didn't realize that he had to go a little further once the nut was loose. I've never had a "stuck" bit, but I pushed a small rubber "O" ring into the bottom of my collet so the bit doesn't bottom out.


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

Frank,
I understand, that's why I replied with my cure to the problem I had, hoping it may be able to help someone else. I don't feel the collet should need to be loosened that much to get the bit out.

Once you installed the O-ring, do you still have loosen the collet until the bit pops free, or are you able to remove it after the initial loosening of the nut?

Darrin


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I think with the self releasing collet you *need* to feel that second bit of resistance before the bit comes free. 
I attached a pdf of an insert Woodhaven sent along with my last order. I thought it had some interesting information on collets


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

jschaben said:


> I think with the self releasing collet you *need* to feel that second bit of resistance before the bit comes free.
> I attached a pdf of an insert Woodhaven sent along with my last order. I thought it had some interesting information on collets


John,
Thanks for the info. This is very interesting. I do not recall my PC 690 having the problem described when it was new, but that doesn't mean it didn't, I don't recall a lot of things lately. After it sat for awhile and the collets got the rust on them is when it started. I have seen no ill affect of the polishing of the mating surfaces, and I can remove the collet with is ease. Again, thanks for the upload, it is very enlightening.

Darrin


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## 57759 (Apr 8, 2011)

Three Piece Self-Releasing - Best Collet
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According to the link the above is the best collet. So with that in mind, if I were to buy a new router do I tell the salesman I need to disassemble your router to determine what style of collet it has. Or if the router is mail order I can see where that would present another set of problems.


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

SandburRanch said:


> Three Piece Self-Releasing - Best Collet
> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
> According to the link the above is the best collet. So with that in mind, if I were to buy a new router do I tell the salesman I need to disassemble your router to determine what style of collet it has. Or if the router is mail order I can see where that would present another set of problems.


Once you decide which router you want, you could download the manual and possibly get a closer view of the collet to see what type it is. I doubt you are going to see a name brand router with a collet like type 1 or 2 in the attachment John uploaded.

I read the manual for my PC690, and it did not state anything about have to loosen the collet almost all of the way to be able to remove the bit.

What got me thinking about this was watching the router workshop, and seeing how he would just loosen the collet and remove the bit. So I started looking at mine, and noticed the surface rust. Once I polished it, no more problems. The PC690 is a three piece collet.

Darrin


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## routafinger (Dec 30, 2009)

darrink said:


> Frank,
> I understand, that's why I replied with my cure to the problem I had, hoping it may be able to help someone else. I don't feel the collet should need to be loosened that much to get the bit out.
> 
> Once you installed the O-ring, do you still have loosen the collet until the bit pops free, or are you able to remove it after the initial loosening of the nut?
> ...


Yes; it still needs to reach that 2nd release point. But it's not an issue for me as I'm so used to it.


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