# Help. Drywall patching suggestions?



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Last week had my garage walls filled with blow in insulation. Now I have 44 holes, 2 1/8 inch wide, where they blew in the insulation. They want $500 bucks to fill them in, so it's DIY time. First, the solution I'm considering, then a request for simpler/better alternatives.

I found some plugs with drywall disks glued to extra-wide drywall tape that you mud into place so the mud fills the crack between disk and hole--reestablishing the firewall. But they are too big and rediculously expensive with so many holes. Thinking of making my own using a hole drill. But the test piece shows I'll have to sand the edges and glue each disk to some very coarse paper. 

Saw a you-tube video of the technique. You put mudding compound on the back side so the edges are covered, press the disk in (which squeezes the compound out onto the paper, then flatten the paper, mud over, dry and sand flat.

But this is going to be a chore, and I wonder if anyone has a suggestion for getting this job done with less effort. The integrity of the firewall is important to me and that's a consideration. And I like that the plug becomes part of the drywall while a simple patch does not.


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

Choose a hole saw that will leave your disk about 1/4 smaller in diameter than the hole in the wall, so you have a large enough gap all around for mud to get down in the crack. Run a string or wire through the center hole of your disk and tie something about the size of a popsicle stick to the back side of your disk. Poke the stick through the hole in the wall and use the string to pull the stick flat against the backside of the drywall. This will hold your disk flush to the surface of your drywall while the mud dries.


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## George B. (Oct 30, 2010)

DonkeyHody said:


> Choose a hole saw that will leave your disk about 1/4 smaller in diameter than the hole in the wall, so you have a large enough gap all around for mud to get down in the crack. Run a string or wire through the center hole of your disk and tie something about the size of a popsicle stick to the back side of your disk. Poke the stick through the hole in the wall and use the string to pull the stick flat against the backside of the drywall. This will hold your disk flush to the surface of your drywall while the mud dries.


You will need some way to keep tension on the string or wire all the while the mud is drying or the disk will likely fall into the wall.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

My method is similar to Charley's. I put a stick on the backside, sometimes with some PL400 or Mo More Nails on it, and I screw it to the drywall on either side of the hole. Since you have to plaster anyway it makes no difference if you have to plaster over the drywall screws. This gives something you can screw the plug to.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

@tom
I do not think I can explain how I repair hole here a vedio show how to make butterfly patch. His exclamation it's a little lengthy but you should get the general idea


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I've always used Charles' technique.
-holesaw out enough drywall blanks to do all the holes (you didn't mention the size, Tom; 2" ?)
-rip some 1/2 or 5/8" scrap plywood strips...make them maybe long enough to extend past the perimeter of the hole by at least 1" on either side
-put a temporary drywall screw into the center of the strips length...this is to hold onto while you install the strip into the hole. Remove the screw after you've run drywall screws through the wall into your sticks.
It's now permanent and no buildup ox glue between the back of the wall and the face of the stick! THIS IS IMPORTANT! If you have buildup, the attachment stick sits too far back and the patch~plug won't lie flush with the wall.
That's not a huge problem if it isn't, just more work in filling.
-screw your plugs into place...one screw centered is all you need.
-_fill the perimeter fully_...I highly recommend using Taping mix rather than All Purpose, but you're not going to go and buy a bag of that for a dozen holes(?).
-Let the mud dry completely...it's going to shrink!
-now fill the surface as you would for any taped joint. It really should be taped but doing small circles is a royal pain. If the plugs are 2" 2 strips of that fibreglass patching tape should cover it nicely, and you can do all the holes before mudding. Don't overlap the tape strips...just butt the long edges otherwise you'll be really unhappy with the mud buildup required to bury the tape completely. 
https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.fiberglass-drywall-tape-2-in-x-300-ft-roll.1000115533.html


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

He will get back to use next week after wrestling with that hole saw for a hunert holes! :surprise::grin::grin::grin:


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

I love these things.....great for larger patches. No more popsicle sticks and string for me.

Insta-back 1/2 in. Drywall Repair Clips-4055 - The Home Depot


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Doug; kinda wish they'd had those back when I was contracting. Looks like you need to buy 200pcs?! Do they sell them in single count quantities? (Even bags of ten would be more practical for the DIYer)


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Thanks Doug, hard to keep up with the new products this is a great idea!
@Dan http://www.homedepot.com/p/Wal-Board-Tools-Drywall-Repair-Clip-6-Pack-54-014/202015408


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

They sell them in packs of 4 or 6 as well.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

I've used the same one's Doug is recommending and they are my go to solution when the drywall patch isn't backed up by studs. I have also used Dan's technique many times. It's quick, easy, and inexpensive.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Hi guys, thanks. There are 44 holes, each is 2 1/8th in diameter. I think they may be too small to use the clips. Actually, I don't quite understand how the clips work. Do the two tabs stick out the front and the backing goes inside the wall?

I was thinking of doing something like what's in the film, but was going to glue the disks to a new paper surface. Since all holes are the same, we should be able to set up a production line. I think I'm going to try both suggested methods and figure out which is eaiser while still looking good. 

Thanks all for the feedback. I'll check back and see if any other ideas show up.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

The clip holds the plate to the drywall until you get the screws in. The tabs then pop off so nothing shows above the patch.

Makes a very solid repair


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Thank's John; I didn't see that on my first 'go round. Perfect.
I'll pass that on to my local lumberyard...should be available to them as well
but that's what the table saw is for.

Tom: a 2" hole saw is perfect...1/16" gap around the circumference will allow the mud to full embed.
If, as I suggested, you use Taping (Joint) mud...much higher glue content to fill the gaps, those suckers ain't _never _coming back out!
https://www.usg.com/content/usgcom/...synko-lite-joint-drywall-taping-compound.html


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

OK guys, Did a test run using the method in the video. Took a little practice to cut the circles without breaking the front paper surface, then sliced from the circumference to the edge and peeles off the plaster so only the circle was left, still fixed to the front paper. Glopped a bunch of mud over and in the hole, slid the disk in, pressed all the excess mud out til it was flat. This also forces the mud into the small gap between wall and plug.

Learned that the narrower you make the pie slices, the cleaner they come off. The paper backing needs a little very light sanding to flake off any plaster that remains. The good news is that the patch is practically invisible even before putting the top coat on. The bad news is that I have 43 more to go.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

I covered ours with a French cleat, Tom. Works great and the additional storage is wonderful.









David


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## katabrontes (Nov 12, 2014)

I suppose you didn't keep the discs they cutr out when they made the holes! Pity it would have saved a lot of work.

I just coat the edges of the discs with plaster and ease them into the holes. It doesn't matter if they are not flush as you can make up the difference with a skim over the top and them if you aren't good at plastering sand it down flush after its dry. You won't see the joinafter its painted.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

katabrontes said:


> I suppose you didn't keep the discs they cutr out when they made the holes! Pity it would have saved a lot of work.
> 
> I just coat the edges of the discs with plaster and ease them into the holes. It doesn't matter if they are not flush as you can make up the difference with a skim over the top and them if you aren't good at plastering sand it down flush after its dry. You won't see the joinafter its painted.


Yeah, he was just a little too diligent in his cleanup. I was out of town when the fill was done and never thought of it. Oh well, its pleasant busy work and my wife can help out. She'd like that. DIY saves me about enough cash to pay for a new car key.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I always cut a piece of wood (stick) longer than the hole diameter, feed in into the hole and then hold it in place across the back of the hole while I drive a drywall screw or two in to attach the ends of the stick to the adjacent drywall. Then I insert my patch piece against this piece of wood, in your case the round disk of sheet rock, and put a screw or two through it into the stick to hold it in place. Then I apply the tape and mud. I like the fiberglass mesh tape because it sticks in place without the mud, and then I just mud over it. For very large holes that do not span the beams I have used several sticks but used the same method otherwise. 

When you raise 4 kids and a 238 lb St. Bernard you get good at patching and repainting walls. I always tried to keep a quart or more of each room color and labeled them by room. The St. Bernard became part of this problem when he was chasing the kids through the hallway and didn't make the turn well on the wood floor, but he took out the whole piece between the studs, so it was larger, but a little easier to fix.

Charley


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"...and didn't make the turn well on the wood floor, but he took out the whole piece between the studs,"
-Charley

Heh...I had a client (years ago) whose kids did exactly that on the stair landing.

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dRJH80ZX...2_-F2nRVfg5yvAW1TA8zQCLcBGAs/s1600/Tipped.gif


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

CharleyL said:


> .... he took out the whole piece between the studs, so it was larger, but a little easier to fix.


That happens with younger brothers as well. Even 30+ years later he has to bring up how I accidentally put him through the drywall once.

I must say I was surprised when our father didn't get that angry, just made me add an outlet to his office while I had the wall open.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Depending on the size of the holes there is a wide variety of patching approaches as you've read about above. Over the years I've used most of them and go balc to the query, "how big is the hole". 

In the end "don't over think it".

Jon


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Tom ,you can do like my neighbor did and wallpaper over the holes.
Herb


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## DonkeyHody (Jan 22, 2015)

difalkner said:


> I covered ours with a French cleat, Tom. Works great and the additional storage is wonderful.
> 
> View attachment 292233
> 
> ...


What an Elegant Solution!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> Tom ,you can do like my neighbor did and wallpaper over the holes.
> Herb


Lmao , now that would be funny as all heck


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

My wife and I are taking a little break from making patching plugs. I was getting a little too fussy, so she reminded me that it's a GARAGE, not the master bedroom. I got a Bosch hole cutter, but it doesn't have many teeth so it's hard to control and pops through the front paper too easily. So I got the Milwaukee brand which has teeth all round, and it is doing better, easier to control and able to plunge a little deeper so there's less compound left on the paper. I put one in as a test a couple of days ago and it looks pretty good, even without a thin outer coat. I think we're going to go through a lot of patching compound. Really have to slather in the compound in and around the hole so the plug will join solidly with the wall once dry.

This is a slow process, and it turns out there are more than 44 holes. The tricky part is peeling off the plaster from the backing without peeling the plug off as well. Takes a little practice. 

Including breaks, lunch and naps I figure we'll be done next week some time. :wink:


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Tom
Why not use your drill press to cut the holes?
You can cantrol speed and depth of cut


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Why use so much compound? The holes are high. Nothing will likely bump into them. Just put them in the hole using a board behind, and then tape and mud the surface. It's a garage/workshop isn't it? Now I'm sounding like your wife.

Charley


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Lmao , now that would be funny as all heck


I did too Rick ,lmao when I heard him telling me about it. Actually it was in the 2 kids bed rooms. He wanted to install a ceiling light ,so he cut a hole for a switch box above an outlet then fed the wire off the outlet. From the switch he cut out a channel in the sheet rock up to the ceiling , notched the top plate for the wiring, cut a slot across the ceiling to the center where he mounted a box for the light fixture. 
To cover the notches and slots he wall papered the walls and ceiling.
Herb


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

CharleyL said:


> Why use so much compound? The holes are high. Nothing will likely bump into them. Just put them in the hole using a board behind, and then tape and mud the surface. It's a garage/workshop isn't it? Now I'm sounding like your wife.
> 
> Charley


Actually the holes aren't that high, and the ones below the fire blocks are fairly low. Remember that I'm a bit of a fussbudget at heart, so I don't want 2 inch dimples all over the place either.

You can sound like my wife, however she's probably better looking. :grin:

I discovered this afternoon that cutting larger pie sections made it easier to peel the plaster away from the buttons. You do, however, have to support the center button on a lip or ledge or it will rip free from the base. The last 24 pieces went pretty fast. Now it's time to mud them in place. Not mud, but compound. More glue in the compound according to a member. OK, here goes the final effort... Here are a couple of pictures showing the amound of compound, how it goes into place and how it looks.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Tom, we are waiting with baited breath!:surprise::grin:

And...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Tom; just to clarify my "glue" comment. The traditional 'glue' they used in Joint filler was cornstarch I believe; no idea what goes into the current formulations.
When it dried it shrank, pulling the tape into the joint. Stuck like you-know-what to a blanket. I like to sponge off any surplus globs before it dries...just simplifies filling the second coat.
You shouldn't be doing any sanding of the taping coat. Maybe scrape off any blips with your joint knife*. This is why you try and leave the surface clean and flat after applying the tape; depressions don't matter. They get filled on the 2nd coat.

* Wal-Board 5 in. Joint Knife w/ Hammer-End HK-5 (WLB-22-005)


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Finishing up today. Can't believe the difference in the temperature out there. Opened the inside door and blew in some cool swamp cooler air and it was perfect in there. Come winter I'll just turn on the clothes dryer and open its door for heat. The gas heater vents to the outside, so this won't suffocate me. I don't think I'll be losing much heat. Makes me want to move the table saw out there. 

@RainMan 2.0 Rick, sorry I can't ship it up there, you'd love it.

@DaninVan Dan, thanks for the advice on taping. The tape on the walls had lifted off so I'm going to have to tape them over again. I think the uninsulated walls had something to do with it lifting off. I've always used paper tape in the past, would I be be better off using the woven type instead? 

I'm seeing this as a significant home improvement. Anyone have any idea what this does to the selling price on a house. Walking in to a (nearly) finished and insulated garage impressed me.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Tom; it's not the tape that's the problem...they used All Purpose filler to do the taping. Bad idea. Not enough stick-um in it.
Personally I prefer paper tape.
MIxing the mud _really_ well, and having it not too wet and not too dry is crucial. If it's too wet it'll go on too thinly and won't properly glue the tape down. The mud should actually come through the spark holes on paper tape...that's why the fibreglass tape is great for repairs; the mud really comes through the mesh, and you can't tear it.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I don't have anything useful to add to this conversation...BUT I am remodeling a kitchen. We have several places to tape and float so this thread has been useful. Thanks to all who have contributed. I have patched many holes in the previous 40 plus years, and always seem to learn something new.

As a matter of fact, I am sitting at my desk banging on the keyboard, and just remembered that there was once a door behind the monitor that I closed in 25 years ago...and you can't tell it. Only me, my sweetie, and the kids know the difference. :grin:


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

MT Stringer said:


> I don't have anything useful to add to this conversation...BUT I am remodeling a kitchen. We have several places to tape and float so this thread has been useful. Thanks to all who have contributed. I have patched many holes in the previous 40 plus years, and always seem to learn something new.
> 
> As a matter of fact, I am sitting at my desk banging on the keyboard, and just remembered that there was once a door behind the monitor that I closed in 25 years ago...and you can't tell it. Only me, my sweetie, and the kids know the difference. :grin:


And exactly what did you close in behind that door? Poe fans want to know. >


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Ha ha, I can't say! :surprise:>


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Can't or won't?


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