# Hitachi KM12VC Collet Stuck



## Chilton88 (Feb 16, 2015)

Hi All, I have run into a bit of an issue here and I am hoping someone can help!

I picked up a KM12VC router off CL a month or so ago, but just managed to find the free time to give it a test drive. Unfortunately I was unable to do such testing because I cannot get a bit into the router.

To the best of my descriptive ability I will say that it seems the 1/2" collet is stuck down in the collet sleeve making it impossible to fit a bit in the machine. Typically the collet would be towards the top of the sleeve and tighten down on the bit as the nut is tighten, but with the nut completely removed the collet is still stuck down there and I cannot figure out how to get it to loosen/raise/remove. Hopefully the way I have described this makes sense to someone? 

User danngossman posted what I thought was a similar issue about a month ago but it seems his may have been slightly different and his solution involved a lot of leverage and a pair of pliers which may have now caused him more issues from what I was reading in his thread. I am hoping I dont have to go down the brut force issue as I really dont even see how that will fix it, but the manual doesnt go into enough detail to help with this type of thing so I am stuck.

Router genius' please help! 

Chad


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

*Collet*

Here is a picture of what you should have
The collet snaps into the nut I can not see inside well enough to tell if it is the right collet or not the reason you found it on CL is someone has jamed that collet into it 
you will have to get it out and buy a new collet and nut 12 to 15 dollars
The shaft is tapered inside


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## Chilton88 (Feb 16, 2015)

Semipro said:


> Here is a picture of what you should have
> The collet snaps into the nut I can not see inside well enough to tell if it is the right collet or not the reason you found it on CL is someone has jamed that collet into it
> you will have to get it out and buy a new collet and nut 12 to 15 dollars
> The shaft is tapered inside


Thanks for the feedback Semipro! I thought this may be the issue when I saw the 1/4" collet that comes with the router, as it is still stuck in the nut, but I wasn't sure if they were both supposed to look that way...sounds like they are. I don't mind getting a new one as I got the router for pretty cheap, I honestly am just not sure how I am going to get the existing one out of the shaft?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

sometimes an easy out works....
another is draw/slide hammer if you can hook on to the bottom side of the collet...
soak the collet in a mix of acetone and ATF for a few hours 1st... 
mix the acetone/ATF at a ratio of 1:1


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

First you need to do this carefully no hammering 
Do as Stick mentioned you may also cut a hole in a plastic bag to fit over shaft and tape it to keep junk out motor housing using a Dremel and small cutter carefully cut the top of collet above one of the slots


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## Chilton88 (Feb 16, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> sometimes an easy out works....
> another is draw/slide hammer if you can hook on to the bottom side of the collet...
> soak the collet in a mix of acetone and ATF for a few hours 1st...
> mix the acetone/ATF at a ratio of 1:1


Thank you for the advice Stick! I wish I could just remove the shaft and tap it out from the other side, would make my life much easier right now...

Excuse my ignorance but on the ATF/Acetone mix would I put the router, shaft downwards, and rest it in that or put that mix in the shaft? I would assume I would not want to put that in the shaft as I would think it could drain down into the motor and mess up other stuff but maybe it is sealed off and it is fine that way?



Semipro said:


> First you need to do this carefully no hammering
> Do as Stick mentioned you may also cut a hole in a plastic bag to fit over shaft and tape it to keep junk out motor housing using a Dremel and small cutter carefully cut the top of collet above one of the slots


Thanks again Semipro, the Dremel option actually sounds like it might be the easiest since the pretty much all require a replacement collet in the end (with the exception of the slide hammer), I am just hoping the collet/nut will be the only needed replacement at the end of this adventure - thank you guys for all this help!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Chilton88 said:


> Thank you for the advice Stick! I wish I could just remove the shaft and tap it out from the other side, would make my life much easier right now...
> 
> Excuse my ignorance but on the ATF/Acetone mix would I put the router, shaft downwards, and rest it in that or put that mix in the shaft? I would assume I would not want to put that in the shaft as I would think it could drain down into the motor and mess up other stuff but maybe it is sealed off and it is fine that way?
> 
> ...


dip the end of the shaft into a thimble of the solution...
you'll find that the shaft isn't hollow and only machined on the end to accept the collet.. at least it's that way on all of mine...

my 1st improvised slide hammer for this same job was nothing more than a cotter puller and a pair of pliers for the slide hammer... a few really easy repetitious taps w/ the pliers against the puller's handle was all it took... and I mean easy...
brute anything is not required....

key pullers... note the hook on the end...
FWIW... I didn't anchor or restrain the motor and it only took a couple three taps to ''get'er'' done...
if yours is ''that'' stuck... time for plan ''B''...


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## Chilton88 (Feb 16, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> dip the end of the shaft into a thimble of the solution...
> you'll find that the shaft isn't hollow and only machined on the end to accept the collet.. at least it's that way on all of mine...
> 
> my 1st improvised slide hammer for this same job was nothing more than a cotter puller and a pair of pliers for the slide hammer... a few really easy repetitious taps w/ the pliers against the puller's handle was all it took... and I mean easy...
> ...


You talked me into it  You make it sound very easy so I'll give that a try before I start cutting away, how long does it need to be in the solution or is it just a dip?

Thanks again for the all ideas!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

once you get that collet removed consider it toast and you'll need to polish the inside of the inside of the shaft...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

this what I have now...

Bearing puller kits by SKF - Fast and easy bearing dismounting


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## Chilton88 (Feb 16, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> once you get that collet removed consider it toast and you'll need to polish the inside of the inside of the shaft...


I actually really appreciate that attachment, as a newbie to this whole woodworking world material like that will prove very helpful in the long run. I'll order a new collet so I wont be out of order for too long while I work the current one out.

Last question, best method for polishing the shaft?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Chilton88 said:


> I actually really appreciate that attachment, as a newbie to this whole woodworking world material like that will prove very helpful in the long run. I'll order a new collet so I wont be out of order for too long while I work the current one out.
> 
> Last question, best method for polishing the shaft?


low speed dremel buffing cone/wheel to fit and polishing compound...

remembered something....
heat the collet w/ a hair dryer or soldering iron... 
that in it's own may make it come loose... it won't hurt...

there are a bazillion helper PDFs and videos on this site... 
go to my uploads and you'll find some helpful information for your routering...

http://www.routerforums.com/profile.php?do=editattachments&u=86031&showthumbs=1

with a little exploring you'll be able to open the thread they were posted in....
read the threads you'll think will help...
within the threads there will be more sublinks and uploads to view from a lot of contributors...
down load what fits your needs/happiness and start your own library/knowledge base...
the more you know and start with the easire routering will be for you..

now this linking to posted up loads applies to many here..
try it you'll like it...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Semipro said:


> First you need to do this carefully no hammering
> Do as Stick mentioned you may *also cut a hole in a plastic bag to fit over shaft *and tape it to keep junk out motor housing using a Dremel and small cutter carefully cut the top of collet above one of the slots


that acetone/ATF solution melts most any plastics...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I have an M12VC and went out to see how the collet fit in. I had mine on snugged up just enough to keep it from loosening off on its own. When I took the nut off the collet stayed in the recess but only about 1/2 of it was in the taper. A light sideways tap freed it. You can see from the picture how far it normally fits in. It wouldn't go that much more with a wrench I don't think. His being that far in don't seem right and it doesn't look like mine that much either. Unless his has a totally different collet than mine something doesn't seem right. Sorry about the picture quality. I tried taking extreme closeups with a camera that wasn't made for that.

However, it has to come out either way and I agree with the methods suggested so far. The slide hammer would be the best solution but if you had to hammer too hard I would be concerned about bearing damage.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

to avoid the bearing damage...
don't clamp the motor or restrain it in any way...
taps and take your time...
don't do all the pulling on one side of the collet... 
if toy have only one pull point move it around often...
no gorilla tactics...
using heat and soaking in the ATF solution are to your benefit

FWIW... a midget bearing race puller would definitely work.....


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

*Collet*



Cherryville Chuck said:


> I have an M12VC and went out to see how the collet fit in. I had mine on snugged up just enough to keep it from loosening off on its own. When I took the nut off the collet stayed in the recess but only about 1/2 of it was in the taper. A light sideways tap freed it. You can see from the picture how far it normally fits in. It wouldn't go that much more with a wrench I don't think. His being that far in don't seem right and it doesn't look like mine that much either. Unless his has a totally different collet than mine something doesn't seem right. Sorry about the picture quality. I tried taking extreme closeups with a camera that wasn't made for that.
> 
> However, it has to come out either way and I agree with the methods suggested so far. The slide hammer would be the best solution but if you had to hammer too hard I would be concerned about bearing damage.


Charles the collet will snap into the nut
I own one one these and it big brother 
But the easy way to fix this problem is to buy a musclechuck no more problem I put them on both routers


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Mine unclamps itself easily too John. The other thing that has me a might bewildered is how a collet would get that far into the recess. The nut will only take it as far as the end of the shaft. Sticking a bit in it wouldn't take it any farther and would probably still be in it if was shoved in that far. I think I would have to use a hammer and punch to get it that far down.

John, which big brother? I have the V and V2 and I wasn't sure what fit them. I was planning on switching the V2 for the V in my table as it is better designed for table. I'd like to get one for it.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Mine unclamps itself easily too John. The other thing that has me a might bewildered is how a collet would get that far into the recess. The nut will only take it as far as the end of the shaft. Sticking a bit in it wouldn't take it any farther and would probably still be in it if was shoved in that far. I think I would have to use a hammer and punch to get it that far down.
> 
> John, which big brother? I have the V and V2 and I wasn't sure what fit them. I was planning on switching the V2 for the V in my table as it is better designed for table. I'd like to get one for it.


wonder if it's the all together the wrong collet all...


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Older M12v 3 1/4 hp in my table since I bought it I just recently put a muscle chuck on it 
It is one workhorse , but I know that hitachi has had some trouble with collets and they had to revise them
I have had no trouble with mine


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

For every action there is an equal and opposite reaction...

Have someone hold the router in their hands...suspended, not against a surface.

Take a small piece of wood and hold it flush onto the spindle then tap on the wood transferring the shock to the spindle. The collet should move towards the shock...

Use some of stick's mix or PB Blaster ahead of the wacking...

...it's what I would do...other members thoughts ?

Nick


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## Mikeme (May 3, 2012)

I would try putting the nut back on the thread and giving the nut a few sharp taps with a hammer, may loosen the collet.


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## Chilton88 (Feb 16, 2015)

Some great ideas here, sounds like I'll start with Sticks mix first then maybe go method by method to see if something will work.

NickP - thanks for the idea! I am going to try that first as it sounds totally legit haha not sure if it will work or not but science would suggest it might so why not?

To the comments about it being way to far down or maybe even the wrong collet, I think it is the right one but I think it has just been punched down there somehow, but I have a new one on the way so hopefully it is the only damaged piece.

Once I get the baby to bed I will start testing each one and hopefully I can report back with some success!


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## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

*Now this is from a mechanic and not a wood worker by trade. Could you possibly apply heat to the outside, say with a hair dryer and warm it as much as you dare and then pack ice on the inside to cool it. The idea being that it will shrink on the inside and swell the outside part. Now then use the cotter pin sliding hammer trick. Just a thought from a and old wore out mechanic. Have removed lost of very tight bearings doing this on tapered shafts. *


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## Chilton88 (Feb 16, 2015)

Freedom at last! Under flashlight in the backyard opposite the baby's room we finally have removed the problem child...now guess who gave the victorious advice...

drumroll....

Everyone!  Stick's mix helped I'm sure because once it got moving it really wasn't all too hard but I give the credit to the whole forum for the inspiration and ideas! Honestly I probably didn't try any one idea exactly as you all described them, it was more of mash-up of thoughts from you all. Sometimes the simplest solution is the best, in this case that may have been true because after failing through the first few ideas I realized I could get a thin flat head screwdriver to stick in one of the 'slots' in the collet at an angle which I then just lightly tapped and went in a circle to each of the slots while it pulled the piece up and out. Success 

Now I am hoping the shaft is in okay condition and the replacement collet will get me back in business! Attached is the best picture I could get with my phone inside the shaft, thoughts?


HUGE thank you to all of you again, I greatly appreciate it!

Chad


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> wonder if it's the all together the wrong collet all...


They didn't look similar in the pics but it looks like the right one now that it's out. Still can't figure out how it got shoved in that far. The recess looks okay to me Chilton.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Semipro said:


> Older M12v 3 1/4 hp in my table since I bought it I just recently put a muscle chuck on it
> It is one workhorse , but I know that hitachi has had some trouble with collets and they had to revise them
> I have had no trouble with mine


My V has also been a workhorse. I haven't had any problems with the collet or when using the reducer for 1/4" shafts. Some say that they have had bits slip when using one. I never have yet with that one.


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## Chilton88 (Feb 16, 2015)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> They didn't look similar in the pics but it looks like the right one now that it's out. Still can't figure out how it got shoved in that far. The recess looks okay to me Chilton.


Yea I have no idea either, it looked basically brand new when I picked it up from the CL seller, not a speck of sawdust in sight, so maybe it got stuck down there for them and they didnt have this helpful forum to assist is getting it out so they figured it was broke and sold it? Glad to here the rest looks ok, hopefully the collet comes quick so I can finally use this thing!


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Musclechucks are delivered very quickly, but they are pricier than simple replacement collets. The link leads to wht web site with the RouterForum discount.
Quick Change Router Chuck - Camless Router Chuck - Dewalt - Porter Cable - Festool - Hitachi - Bosch - Makita - Trend - Freud - Fein - Metabo - Carvewright


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

...another positive review for "Stick's Mix"...new label "STUCK COLLET REMOVAL OINTMENT". Customers also viewed other products...picks, lil Louie, pullers, screwdrivers, hammers...and other fine surgical paraphernalia.

...soon you will need your own marketing agency, Stick...

Chilton, glad you got your router back...best of luck with it...

Nick


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