# Where would YOU put it?



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

As some of you may already know, I am in the process of reorganizing my garage/shop. Part of that is building a 20 foot long bench that will go along one wall. That will be, as you might guess, a major feature of the shop.

For me, one of the tools I use the most is the miter saw. I am having a hard time deciding where to put it. Part of me wants it near the center of the bench, lowered so that the bench is support for longer pieces. But another part thinks the bench should not be broken up, so the miter saw should have its own stand, maybe on rollers.

Where would YOU put the miter saw if it was your shop?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

> Part of me wants it near the center of the bench, lowered so that the bench is support for longer pieces


+1 ( if I had the room that is where I would put it.)


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Chris:

May I suggest that you mount the miter saw on a pivoting section. In one position, the miter saw is in the position you show in your picture. In the other position, the miter saw hangs below that section and the section provides a continuous surface for the bench.

Cassandra


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

Why a 20 foot bench?
Sounds like you are planning some heavy duty projects or many projects going at the same time. Can you afford to "clean off" the work bench to make room for the long material to cut? It may be more of an inconvenience. How often will you use the miter saw? I wouldn't use one very often so a roll around cart with collapsible support wings would do me just fine.


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## japa62 (May 9, 2012)

Personally I would construct the workbench in modules. 2 long benches with a gap, joined along the back and along the floor. 2 more smaller benches on rollers used as inserts that go into the gap. The inserts, when pushed in could slide in on runners. Just swap them for the job at hand. How about a 3rd insert with a table router at the bench height for routing long pieces?

Hope you can see what I am suggesting as I am not experienced enough at Sketchup yet.

My only problem with this idea, is keep the bench surface clear of clutter


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

I like pic 1, with the saw lowered and using the bench for support. But I'm a bit messy, so the bench top probably wouldn't be clear when I needed it.


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## Badlandsbuzz (Jul 21, 2010)

I have a very similar set-up. I have cabinets with a continuous heavy duty work top of 2layers of 3/4" plywood & 1/4" hardboard, along the 24' wall. My 12" miter (fine work) is to the left side and I also have a 10" RAS (rough work) to the right side. Both cutting surfaces are level with the work top. I have a common fence across the entire length, with T-track, stop blocks and scale rule for each. The fence is easily removeable for other work top uses, when needed. This is also where a benchtop mortiser and benchtop drill press reside. This allows plenty of work length for both fine or rough work needs and each piece serves a variety of other uses.

The cabinets are not open, but have a combination of doors & drawers for mega storage. Specific blades, tool, and spare parts for each piece are stored adjacent. Under each saw is an open area, which houses a roll-about cut off box for scrap. On the wall above all of this, is a series of "French Cleats" for a system of modular / moveable cabinets and storage needs. This also serves as supports for the dust collection piping that drops to each piece of equipment. I also have a small area on the wall for storage of shorter cut-offs of wood. 

I kicked this idea around alot, before deciding on what exactly to do. I put plenty of thought into each piece of equipment and what I wanted to do with it. I check out magazines and internet sites for pictures of other shops to steal ideas.

Good Luck with it.


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## bwiseman (Aug 17, 2011)

Chris Curl said:


> As some of you may already know, I am in the process of reorganizing my garage/shop. Part of that is building a 20 foot long bench that will go along one wall. That will be, as you might guess, a major feature of the shop.
> 
> For me, one of the tools I use the most is the miter saw. I am having a hard time deciding where to put it. Part of me wants it near the center of the bench, lowered so that the bench is support for longer pieces. But another part thinks the bench should not be broken up, so the miter saw should have its own stand, maybe on rollers.
> 
> Where would YOU put the miter saw if it was your shop?


Chris , check out my setup- works a treat for me.


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## Leftwrite (Sep 30, 2012)

*My Opinion*

I would make the bench level all the way across, set the saw on the benchtop, and use removable risers on either side of it as needed to make the workpiece level with your saw.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Cassandra, I like that idea!

William, I don't have any huge projects in the queue, but I scored 15 4' long desktops free from the office, and I need to store my tools somewhere (on shelves under the bench), and one can never have too big a workbench, so this serves both purposes. I had better be able to clear off enough for a cut.

Japa, I think I understand what you are saying ... can you elaborate a little more though?

James and Jim (Chessnut), thanks.

Jim (Badlands), are your saws on the ends, or in a little (say about 4' or so from the ends)? I also have a cleated wall system for storage. It sounds like you and I think the same way. I hope you get up to 10 posts quickly, because I am very interested to see some pictures of your setup, if you don't mind sharing them that is.

Bob, that looks great, and along the same lines as where I am headed.

Mike, most of my cuts are short enough that I wouldn't need the added support anyway, so that idea works well.


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

I have a 20' bench, with under-top vertical racks for hand tool storage so I agree with your idea - the only concern I have is where are the diagonals - the drawing presented would most likely collapse to the right or left without an opposing force.

PS - good thing it is you asking the question and not me as my wife would have a ready answer - Good Luck


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> Cassandra, I like that idea!


I like how you think ahead Chris.

I use my miter saw the most of any tool in my shop. Because of that, both my Miter Saw's have their own stands. Same with the Radial Arm Saw.

Working in a shop, when I worked for Wasson's, the combined table for his RAS and the shop Miter was 36 foot long. We were continually cleaning the table to use as it was also a workspace.

I thought of combining my miter saws and RAS tables... But I'm also am continually cleaning table space for either work or use. And I don't have a lot of space like that to start from. The only way I can guarantee that it's ready for use is kickstands (portable). Folded up they take little room. Minutes later, they're ready for use.

I personally thought I would rather have something that folds up and is solid when in use than something that is on wheels and tries to move while making a cut. (my pet peeve) Unless the wheels are retractable... 

I thought of making a few semi-permanent miter tables that hung off a wall or folded down from the wall while is use...

But Casandra's idea sounds very attractive. The one thing even with how I have done thing in the past, is that my SCMS takes a lot of room when not being used. Now she has me rethinking things I do from her idea.

William-
Why a 20 foot section for a Miter Saw? Because 16 feet is how trim comes standard. I have also many times had timber delivered in 24 foot sticks. Nothing like trying to balance something on a short surface while trying to make a good cut. Given those are extremes and you don't need them or want that all the time (because then it's in the way and you have to get around it)(used retracable wings to remedy that), but just after you say you won't or don't need it, it usually when something comes up and you will. LOL

Now that (for the meanwhile) I have a job that is not in the trades and I'm not working out of jobsites, I'm starting to think a little different about workflow. I'm thinking about how to apply Cassandra's idea... First thoughts, about my old stand. 12 foot long 2"x12" with center for saw, blocks with mdf on it for run outs, short fence. I hang it on my wall when not in use. I used to set it on saw horses to use. I could be set on work tables...

Hmm. Still thinking.


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## Ben I (May 21, 2010)

Good Morning Chris 

I would suggest leaving room under your assembly table for a small air compressor, if you have one. They are very handy for air blow down nozzles, brad pin guns as well as other small air powered devices such as die grinders and cut off wheels. 

Leave access to the compressor such that it can be easily moved out from under the table for cleaning and air receiver tank blow down. Access logically implies bracing your assembly table on only the back side behind the compressor.

A small compressor has provided all my shop needs. It was a little slow driving multiple full length nails but other than that it works fine.

Regards
Ben


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## Badlandsbuzz (Jul 21, 2010)

Chris Curl said:


> Jim (Badlands), are your saws on the ends, or in a little (say about 4' or so from the ends)? I also have a cleated wall system for storage. It sounds like you and I think the same way. I hope you get up to 10 posts quickly, because I am very interested to see some pictures of your setup, if you don't mind sharing them that is.
> 
> Chris;
> My miter is 12' from left end with the RAS 4' from right end. That leaves 8' between them. I checked out your shop pics and saw that you use a different type of modular / mobile rack system. I use the "French Cleat" style with 4" wide strips of 3/4" plywood lagged to the wall. They have a bevel cut that is placed upward and then I use a matching / mating 2" strip on the cabinet, shelf or storage item. I can move anything piece where ever I want or is most convienent at the time.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

rwbaker said:


> I have a 20' bench, with under-top vertical racks for hand tool storage so I agree with your idea - the only concern I have is where are the diagonals - the drawing presented would most likely collapse to the right or left without an opposing force.
> 
> PS - good thing it is you asking the question and not me as my wife would have a ready answer - Good Luck


Richard, you can't see them from the angle, but there are 8' long 2x3 horizontal pieces at the tops of the legs supporting the tops, glued and screwed to the legs. It is extremely sturdy.



Badlandsbuzz said:


> Chris:
> My miter is 12' from left end with the RAS 4' from right end. That leaves 8' between them. I checked out your shop pics and saw that you use a different type of modular / mobile rack system. I use the "French Cleat" style with 4" wide strips of 3/4" plywood lagged to the wall. They have a bevel cut that is placed upward and then I use a matching / mating 2" strip on the cabinet, shelf or storage item. I can move anything piece where ever I want or is most convienent at the time.


Jim, thanks. I have a 10" and a 7" miter saw, but I really only use the 10" these days.

I started with a french cleat system like you describe, but I didn't like the way the accessories needed 2 cleats to be stable, so I went with a system that has a 1/4" track system that thinks hook to. But it is similar to yours in that I can easily hang anything at all on the wall and move it around at a moment's notice.

Hmmmm ... holy crap! Now I'm realizing I could even hang a box from the wall with a router mounted inside to make a horizontal router ... hmmmm ....

I'd still love to see some pics of it when you have a chance, thanks.

I am now thinking about setting it up one section (about 42") from the right end, sunk to be level, with a way to take it out and put in a section to make the top continuous might be the ticket. I can also do a couple more similar sections for drop in inserts for things like routers or maybe even a table saw with a REALLY LONG outfeed.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Ben in Cypress Texas said:


> Good Morning Chris
> 
> I would suggest leaving room under your assembly table for a small air compressor, if you have one. They are very handy for air blow down nozzles, brad pin guns as well as other small air powered devices such as die grinders and cut off wheels.
> 
> ...


Ben, yes, good point to consider. I only have 1 compressor, and it is a 30 gallon with 50' of hose so it will never fit underneath. I haven't 100% decided where it will live yet, but it will be central enough that I shouldn't have any trouble getting to everything in the shop from it.


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## Gerry Kiernan (Jul 19, 2007)

One of the things I decided to do some time back, was to mount all of my equipment, including work bench, router table, dust collectors, and even steel office desks, onto casters so I could readily change the layout around as the tasks changed. This has proven to be very handy. I have a large shop, and so no real shortage of space, but I still find it is very good to be able to move things around to suit the job. As suggested by some others. I would go modular in my approach to the work bench. 

Gerry


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Gerry Kiernan said:


> One of the things I decided to do some time back, was to mount all of my equipment, including work bench, router table, dust collectors, and even steel office desks, onto casters so I could readily change the layout around as the tasks changed.


Hi Gerry

That's a good idea. I've even seen an industrial version of that at a batchwork firm where they had industrial spindle moulders (shapers), planers, thicknessers and even a 1-1/2 tonne sindle end tenoner mounted on skids so that they could be lifted and moved around with a fork lift truck. When not in use machines were racked on very heavy duty wall racking made from I-beams

Regards

Phil


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## Ben I (May 21, 2010)

Chris Curl said:


> Ben, yes, good point to consider. I only have 1 compressor, and it is a 30 gallon with 50' of hose so it will never fit underneath. I haven't 100% decided where it will live yet, but it will be central enough that I shouldn't have any trouble getting to everything in the shop from it.


You might consider hard piping a air line behind your assembly table. Schedule 40 CPVC piping with quick connect fittings and a small pig tale flex hose should do the trick. This would eliminate a tripping hazard associated with long hoses laying on the floor.

Ben


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## Jaccok (Nov 14, 2011)

I have my miter saw on the right side of my 8' work bench but to much saw dust even with vacuum set up. I an going to make a cabinet for it on wheels so I can move it out side if I need to use it.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I like the ctr. position myself. Jim's setup sounds about perfect! 
A thought Chris; I often have long lengths of trim and/or Cedar, which I need to cut to length. In that case I'd need to pull the scms out and relocate it to a position much farther down the bench, so in those instances having the flexibility of a long work surface is important. I also have the garage door at one end giving me unlimited for iether infeed or outfeed.
In my present shop (temporary) I have the scms sitting on a 4x8 outfeed table flush with the tablesaw...again with the option of opening the garage door for really long pieces.
On a slightly different note, I've noticed that there seems to be two 'camps' here; one prefers to have open racking beneath a table like bench structure, and the other opts for closed cabinetssupporting a bench top. Modular cabinetry would describe the latter.
The advantage to the first is that storage of material is easy on the horizontal. Not so much for the cabinet system.
The cabinets, however offer much more practical storage, via drawers and pullouts, for tools and things like fasteners, hardware and small containers.
I think the individual has to take a long hard look at what they actually do the most of in their shop.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Dan, as you might have guessed, I am also torn between cabinets and open shelving. 

Part of me likes open shelves because you can easily see everything there. 

But another part realizes that open shelves collect dust, which is a problem in a wood shop. This part of me thinks that covers would be better. This part also thinks more customized locations for things would be a good thing. I also have a whole lot of little odds and ends that are in little containters all around the shop, with no semblence of organization. A cabinet system would help address that.

I think I have enough space for both. And maybe something like clear sliding lexan covers over the shelves would address the dust problem and still let me see what is there easily.


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## friendly1too (Sep 25, 2004)

I built a 24 foot bench into my shop, and now that I have it, I wish I hadn't. It's usually cluttered, and it's not a flexible way to use the space. I like Jammes' idea.


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## bcfunburst (Jan 14, 2012)

*Tool Placement*

I also have very restricted space to work in my wood shop, a 20' X 12' garage, all tools on rollers. I placed my miter saw on my bench near the overhead door for easy access and for long boards. I can move the saw to any position needed. You might also wish to reconsider a 20' bench and connect two 10' benches instead. They will be easier to move if required. You might want to rearrange your shop at some point.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I think idea of a rotating mount for your saw is a good idea. I mounted an oscillating sander and a planer on a mobile cart and it is working well. My sliding compound saw is also on a cart but doesn't rotate.

I bet you could figure out how to mount your saw on a rotating table that would provide a smooth surface when upside down thus providing additional work space. 

Good luck. Wish I had that much room to work with.
Mike


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Mine is on a separate stand that I can roll out of the way if necessary. It would be nice to have a nice long work surface to lay the stock on but not at the expense of taking up part of the work bench. It would be difficult to use the saw if you had something set up on the bench.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

What is it with we Humans? We see a horizontal surface an we feel compelled to put something on it.


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## gwizz (Mar 3, 2012)

*Saw in the middle [x]*

My Vote is go for the centre of your bench : 

My radial arm is in the middle of my bench and the arm acts a good place to have a light. I’m restricted in space and I split my benches around the room but made them the same height and on occasion I have to bridge between the surfaces when the material is really long. Most of my tools roll out for use except the joiner planer and Drill press although I have dragged the drill press around a couple of times. I work on both ends of the bench most of the time or an a tough table I made which I drag into play. The most important feature of my shop is a sound proof ceiling ( albeit low ) so my wife isn’t put off.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks for all your input. At this time, I cannot bring myself to a permanent break in the surface. Since the individual tops will be removable, I will build in a way to have dropped insert for the saw. It will also support the ability to replace sections of the top with specialized tops for routers and other things like spindle sanders or whatever.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

gwizz said:


> My Vote is go for the centre of your bench :
> 
> My radial arm is in the middle of my bench and the arm acts a good place to have a light. I’m restricted in space and I split my benches around the room but made them the same height and on occasion I have to bridge between the surfaces when the material is really long. Most of my tools roll out for use except the joiner planer and Drill press although I have dragged the drill press around a couple of times. I work on both ends of the bench most of the time or an a tough table I made which I drag into play. The most important feature of my shop is a sound proof ceiling ( albeit low ) so my wife isn’t put off.


Nice layout, Richard! Amazing how much productive space you've created.
I'm guessing you had to discipline yourself to keep surfaces clear?


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> As some of you may already know, I am in the process of reorganizing my garage/shop. Part of that is building a 20 foot long bench that will go along one wall. That will be, as you might guess, a major feature of the shop.
> 
> For me, one of the tools I use the most is the miter saw. I am having a hard time deciding where to put it. Part of me wants it near the center of the bench, lowered so that the bench is support for longer pieces. But another part thinks the bench should not be broken up, so the miter saw should have its own stand, maybe on rollers.
> 
> Where would YOU put the miter saw if it was your shop?


Okay... how do I explain this? The first section to the left; build a 2-section return with the section closest to the first portion of your work table lowered, like you show in the picture, just on the return, rather than splitting your work table. Then you have that first section of your work space as the "catcher" to what you're cutting off, with the other section of the return holding your wood that you aren't cutting. It gives you a nice work area that's still integrated with your workbench.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Barb, I am trying to picture what you mean, but am having a hard time visualizing it. Might you be able to point me to pics of a shop where they have something sort of similar to what you have in mind?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Chris; have you come across this book?
Setting Up Shop: The Practical Guide to Designing and Building Your Dream Shop: Sandor Nagyszalanczy: 9781561588381: Amazon.com: Books
Full of pics of actual shops...superb idea book!
It's a steal at twice the price.


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> Barb, I am trying to picture what you mean, but am having a hard time visualizing it. Might you be able to point me to pics of a shop where they have something sort of similar to what you have in mind?


I'm terrible at explaining... lol I need real time chat here, Chris... 

Ok see the pic you posted with the drop down for the miter? Take that part and put it on the first section of your bench, and turn it to where you'll be making an 'L'. (That's what a "return" is.) 

Now take another section of the "regular" table, and put it before the drop-down section. 

When you're done, you'll have an 'L' shaped work station.

Forgive my crude modification of your picture, but I don't have the program you used to create it, and it should be two sections... your drop down being between two sections...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Barb; are you talking about rotating the work direction 90degrees? I'm pretty sure Chris is working parallel to the 20'+ sidewall. If he rotates, he loses the infeed and outfeed length capacity. That's why he was centering the scm saw position.
The bench is up against the sidewall, which of course brings up the other problem of the allowance required behind it to accommodate the sliding function.
(If I misunderstood, please excuse!)


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Barb, I see now what you mean. I'll have to chew on it a little to digest the idea, thanks.

Dan, it is not a slider, just a simple 10" CMS. And yes, it will be against the wall.

In the meantime, I tweaked the original idea to one where the dropped part could stay as it is, but I can move the saw and cover it with a regular section when needed. If the fingers sticking out do not sufficiently support it, I can bolt in another 2x3 to span the gap for additional support.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Chris; Right! Ok; but you may want to upgrade to a scms sometime down the road?
If it's a possibility, perhaps taking that into the equation now might save you future frustration(?). Maybe something as simple as making the chop saw station mobile?
I much prefer to take mine out onto the driveway (sawhorse type bench) when it's a sunny day. Certainly solves the dust collection problem...


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Barb; are you talking about rotating the work direction 90degrees? I'm pretty sure Chris is working parallel to the 20'+ sidewall. If he rotates, he loses the infeed and outfeed length capacity. That's why he was centering the scm saw position.
> The bench is up against the sidewall, which of course brings up the other problem of the allowance required behind it to accommodate the sliding function.
> (If I misunderstood, please excuse!)


No, Dan, that's kewl... see? I'm aweful at explaining these things... If I can build a workshop out of a motorhome, by golly, this should be a snap LOL I guess I need more info, or I need to put things in a different perspective, which I'll load another crude layout lol just forgive my lack-luster designs...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

No, your description was bang on, Barb. The point that we parted was similar to your motor-home situation; width. I seem to remember Chris saying he had 12'+/-, but I could be mistaken. If one were making smaller items such as carved signs or jewellery boxes, I doubt that infeed/outfeed would be an issue. But as soon as you bring 4x8 material, or 16' lengths into the shop the criteria changes drastically. I'd give a small fortune to have a double-car garage/workshop instead of a single, even though it's 27' in length.
Other than that, I have no problem with the 'L' suggestion. 
Cheers, and hopefully you'll be back making sawdust shortly. Any news on the B&E front?


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> No, your description was bang on, Barb. The point that we parted was similar to your motor-home situation; width. I seem to remember Chris saying he had 12'+/-, but I could be mistaken. If one were making smaller items such as carved signs or jewellery boxes, I doubt that infeed/outfeed would be an issue. But as soon as you bring 4x8 material, or 16' lengths into the shop the criteria changes drastically. I'd give a small fortune to have a double-car garage/workshop instead of a single, even though it's 27' in length.
> Other than that, I have no problem with the 'L' suggestion.
> Cheers, and hopefully you'll be back making sawdust shortly. Any news on the B&E front?


Ahhh ok I didn't see the dimensions... but no biggie.  as for the B&E, no, nothing yet, but I at least have the ball rolling for the insurance company. Found more things missing, and I'm in the middle of filling out paperwork for the police and insurance company. The place where we keep beastie just might fix the area where they got in, and are talking video cameras. If they don't, I'm movin Beastie, and my stuff.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

*There must be something wrong with me*

I really need to get a life. Here is a fairly realistic depiction of my garage dimensions, with the floor tiles and everything. And yes, the TS is red like that as are the craftsman tool chests. The car is not my car, this is a '65 Thunderbolt, and mine is a black with red interior '67 Fairlane convertible, but it is pretty much the same size. The car is actually the inspiration for the color scheme of the garage. I really need to make room to fit it in the garage by the time winter comes.

Anyway, you can see that the bench goes pretty much along the whole wall, and that I can't really put an L in it because that would restrict access to the shelves along the back wall.


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> I really need to get a life. Here is a fairly realistic depiction of my garage dimensions, with the floor tiles and everything. And yes, the TS is red like that as are the craftsman tool chests. The car is not my car, this is a '65 Thunderbolt, and mine is a black with red interior '67 Fairlane convertible, but it is pretty much the same size. The car is actually the inspiration for the color scheme of the garage. I really need to make room to fit it in the garage by the time winter comes.
> 
> Anyway, you can see that the bench goes pretty much along the whole wall, and that I can't really put an L in it because that would restrict access to the shelves along the back wall.


ROFL Chris, you have entirely TOO much time on your hands, buddy!!! (but love the realistic view of your shop... ) I hope like hell you're carefull next to that classic with those tools and your workshop... I'd be kickin someone's booty if it were MY classic car... LOL

As for the setup: Dude, I'd be hatin life with that saw in the middle. It interrupts the flow of working. I would get it as close to the end as possible, and have something collapsible at the end to catch whatever I'm cutting off. Do you usually cut long or short boards?


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## LiLRdWgn (Dec 31, 2011)

Chris Curl said:


> I really need to get a life. Here is a fairly realistic depiction of my garage dimensions, with the floor tiles and everything. And yes, the TS is red like that as are the craftsman tool chests. The car is not my car, this is a '65 Thunderbolt, and mine is a black with red interior '67 Fairlane convertible, but it is pretty much the same size. The car is actually the inspiration for the color scheme of the garage. I really need to make room to fit it in the garage by the time winter comes.
> 
> Anyway, you can see that the bench goes pretty much along the whole wall, and that I can't really put an L in it because that would restrict access to the shelves along the back wall.


LOL, Off subject a little. If I had a 65 Thunderbolt, it wouild have to have it's own garage.  That is if it was a true Thunderbolt. Worth mega bucks.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

LiLRdWgn said:


> LOL, Off subject a little. If I had a 65 Thunderbolt, it wouild have to have it's own garage.  That is if it was a true Thunderbolt. Worth mega bucks.


I know what you mean. Ford only made 2,117 of the Fairlane that I have, a 1967 GTA convertible, so it is very rare. I have never seen another one like mine. Even so, mine is a driver, not a garage queen ... that is just not my way.


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

chris curl said:


> i know what you mean. Ford only made 2,117 of the fairlane that i have, a 1967 gta convertible, so it is very rare. I have never seen another one like mine. Even so, mine is a driver, not a garage queen ... That is just not my way.


**jealous*pea-green with envy**


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Just a thought, Chris. I would put that drill press some place where it can stay. They are not fun to move. And it is one tool I would not recommend putting on wheels.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Dmeadows said:


> Just a thought, Chris. I would put that drill press some place where it can stay. They are not fun to move. And it is one tool I would not recommend putting on wheels.


Duane, I am fairly certain it can stay where it is. It has been there for 6 months or so, and I have not yet had a need to move it. If I have a big piece I need to cut with the TS and it would be impeded by the DP, then I move the TS out the driveway and do the cut there. It is a little saw and not very heavy at all. The image shows it pretty close to the car, but in reality, it isn't so close that it is a worry.


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