# Cordless vs corded



## Fadetoblack188 (Apr 8, 2021)

When it comes to a router. What are your thoughts on cordless vs corded routers??

Seems there are obvious pros and cons to both.

if you could only have one which would it be?


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## etaf (Jan 10, 2019)

I choose to have a corded router - DeWalt 625 - only because in my opinion as a DIYer it covered most possible needs, first being a worktop , sink cutout and groves in doors. BUT - I am looking at the DeWalt cordless 1/4" just for the occasional trimming, BUT can't justify the price at the moment.

NOTE - I'm just a DIYer, so occasional use


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I can't really see any pros only cons. 99.999% of what I do is on a table hooked up to a vacuum. But I guess the biggest reason for having it corded is that the last thing I want, is to be doing the edge of a longboard and to have the router start slowing down because the battery is losing power.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

The router would be top heavy...


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

If I could have only one, it would be corded. However, there are lots or reasons to own a cordless router, especially trim router size. Occasional job-site needs is one. Cordless trim routers are being embraced by sign carvers who make signs on-site at craft fairs, and don't want to have to deal with lugging around a generator.

With cordless tools now including everything from drills, to reciprocating saws, to miter saws, the cordless tool world is becoming more useful.


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## Mike_C (Jul 11, 2020)

As was said here - if I could only have one I would have corded... but that is only cause there are no powerful 1/2 routers that are cordless... yet...

As many here I have several routers including a cordless trimmer. Its great for what it is - cord hassle free tool that I can run around the shop with.

I suspect that if I were in the trades - eg a framing person or someone involved in door fitting etc. I would be more inclined towards cordless in general.

My bet is that someone will put out a bigger 1/2 cordless router soon... the battery tech is there

M


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## Rich Engelhardt (Nov 10, 2008)

Only 1?
Corded.

That by no means says I prefer a corded router.

I can't see a 3.5 hp cordless router that I can stick in a table like my Milwaukee 5625-20.

However - for small compact trim routers, the size of the DeWalt 611PK - I'm not sure I'll ever use my DeWalt ever again now that I have a cordless Makita.

The extra power the brushless 18V motor brings to the table is a game changer. It's every bit of 1.5hp.

Not having a cord to get hung up and drag the router to the side in the middle of a cut is another nice touch.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

Those using cordless probably don't use one enough to value the difference. 

Why would you need 1.5 hp in a laminate router?


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Gaffboat said:


> With cordless tools now including everything from drills, to reciprocating saws, to miter saws, the cordless tool world is becoming more useful.


 Useful = expensive

I don't believe in my lifetime tools powered by battery's will reach the quality of a tool powered by an ac corded tool. If they were I would be cordless assuming the longevity and cost of the battery(s) were within reason. Also a battery powered tool operates differently when fully charged compared to 50/75%.


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## etaf (Jan 10, 2019)

> Also a battery powered tool operates differently when fully charged compared to 50/75%.


 I have not noticed that with my cordless tools, ONLY a DIYer, but do have a cordless Grinder which uses a lot of power and batteries do not last, but it works pretty much full on until the batter stops completely, same with my Multitool and with all my other cordless tools, drills/driver and circular/jig saws and planner. Some are Brushless but a few are not.


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## Mike_C (Jul 11, 2020)

Marco said:


> Useful = expensive
> 
> I don't believe in my lifetime tools powered by battery's will reach the quality of a tool powered by an ac corded tool. If they were I would be cordless assuming the longevity and cost of the battery(s) were within reason. Also a battery powered tool operates differently when fully charged compared to 50/75%.


@Marco that is indeed a bold statement - considering how fast battery technology is advancing (driven mostly by electric vehicles and consumer electronics)

I can say from my point of view - cordless is ALREADY better! the performance of cordless tools when the battery is above 25% is on par with corded, while charging times are really really short nowadays... and of course - they dont have a cord.

Can you even imagine going back to a corded impact driver or combi drill????

All the cordless tools I have i am very happy with and the comfort of not having a cord, especially outdoors when working construction (I do some pergolas and deck work) is great.

All you need is a bucket full of batteries and at least two chargers (or a double headed one)

YMMV etc
M


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

There are still a lot of corded tools being used outside construction.

When battery operated nailers came out they weren't very good. I used Paslode.

Batteries are heavy. Small routers with a battery is heavy. Even amid size router with a battery is heavy. Drills today with large batteries are heavy. ..

I've used a cord in commercial for a long time. Doesn't bother me.

People don't like dragging a cord around. They make ot sound like there dragging a 10 guage cord around, a water hose or a large air line...

I worked in large buildings where a 100 ft was needed. Most here are working in a garage and 25 ft of cord is all that's needed. This is why cabinet and commercial shops set up rows of cabinets , go down one line move cord to the next.


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## Rich Engelhardt (Nov 10, 2008)

The Makita can use the small 1.5 AH battery which adds very little weight to the tool. Not anywhere enough to cause unbalance & with today's LiIon batteries, they are both lighter and deliver far more power than the old NiCad. Admittedly = the 3.0 & 5.0 AH batteries are larger & do add weight to the top - the vast majority of the jobs I do with it don't require a lot of run time.

I don't have as much of a problem dragging a cord around on a job site as I do having a cord available to use! It seems like everyone needs or wants electricity on a site at the same time. A lot of the times the only power on a site is what a single Honda 2200 (with a single 20amp outlet) can supply.

Re: a 1.5 hp "trim router". The Makita compact is a 1/4" collet & can do anything physically larger routers can do with 1/4" bits. I love mine & wouldn't part with it.

I don't believe cordless is ready to replace corded for everything though - which is what I mentioned above.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

Rich Engelhardt said:


> The Makita can use the small 1.5 AH battery which adds very little weight to the tool. Not anywhere enough to cause unbalance.
> & with today's LiIon batteries, they are both lighter and deliver far more power than the old NiCad.
> Admittedly = the 3.0 & 5.0 AH batteries are larger & do add weight to the top - the vast majority of the jobs I do with it don't require a lot of run time.
> 
> ...



Why would you be on jobsite with a cordless router using a gereator? I was an installer for numerous years installing residential and commercial 7 years at Regency Cabinets, 2 years Blystone cabinets and 7 years at Steve Rays commercial shop...

I did all the installing...

There are always Temps on those sites.


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## Rich Engelhardt (Nov 10, 2008)

I did home renovations. A lot of times the power is cut off & work has to go on. Even with a bunch of 18V batteries, they do need charged every now and then,


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

I recently purchased battery-operated 16 and 18 ga brad nailers and felt like I had died and gone to heaven. It is very convenient when I want to use a few brad nails to hold a project together. It beats having to drag out the compressor, fire it up, and wait until it noisily reaches full pressure. I also no longer have to work around where the air hose wants to drag around the shop and project. They are also handy for doing a little trim work in house remodeling projects.

Would it be a solution for someone needing all-day nailing capabilities? Of course not. But for my use, it’s great to just pick up the nailer and be ready to go.


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## etaf (Jan 10, 2019)

Which nailer did you get, i have been looking as a DIYer for a cheap solution , but A) expensive and B) some of the staple/nail versions left a Staple indent when nailing, I wanted for a few projects exactly like you - based in UK


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

Rich Engelhardt said:


> I did home renovations. A lot of times the power is cut off & work has to go on.
> Even with a bunch of 18V batteries, they do need charged every now and then,


I did rehabs in Independence , Mo. For Jodi Petterson . Many ex drug houses. First thing we did was establish power...

I'm still lost on why I would be doing router work...

Batteries have to be charged... We've run generators on house the city required an updated power service. After that power is a established...

On cabinet installs batteries were pretty nice. Over the years batteries got heavier... starting with old slimline Makita. When I ended my career it was with Makita. I have Milwaukee and DeWalt now, but if I upgrade it will be Makita. That being said you will not catch a cordless router in my shop.

I sold all my Paslodes as well..

I will add... I do find a cordless jigsaw useful...


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

etaf said:


> Which nailer did you get, i have been looking as a DIYer for a cheap solution , but A) expensive and B) some of the staple/nail versions left a Staple indent when nailing, I wanted for a few projects exactly like you - based in UK


I bought the Ryobi nailers from around Christmas time from Home Depot when they were having deals, including extra batteries at about half price. Since I already had a Ryobi impact driver, I figured it was a no brainer.


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## Rich Engelhardt (Nov 10, 2008)

Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> I'm still lost on why I would be doing router work..


There's plenty to route on a house rehab. Matching existing trim for instance.

I bought a Ryobi set of 1/4" router bits that I've been using a couple of dozen years now.
With it, I'm able to come close enough to most existing profiles it's hard to tell them apart from a distance.

Old 1950s/1960s Birch plywood panel/Pine rails and stiles cabinet doors all have a round over on them that needs to be done if/when a door is replaced. On most rehabs we do, we try to salvage what's already there & add on to it where needed. Building carcasses on site is a lot easier when you have a router onsite to make the shelf pin holes.

Anyhow - I find plenty of uses & if you don't, then more power to you.

I'll make sure I let Santa know not to bring you one for your stocking.


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## Outpost22 (Jan 24, 2021)

As of now I have 3 routers. A Bosch in my router table, a Porter Cable Plunge router and a cordless 1/4" Dewalt. Sure, the corded ones are best, but that little cordless Dewalt has been a workhorse and fun. Just recently I used a round over bit in it to smooth out (radius) the tops of my wife's old cedar vegetable beds. The convenience of not having a cord hanging up out there was great. I use some 6AH batteries in it and it lasts about 30 minutes per battery. 
If I could only have one router though, it would have a cord.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Mike_C said:


> @Marco that is indeed a bold statement - considering how fast battery technology is advancing (driven mostly by electric vehicles and consumer electronics)
> 
> I can say from my point of view - cordless is ALREADY better! the performance of cordless tools when the battery is above 25% is on par with corded, while charging times are really really short nowadays... and of course - they dont have a cord.
> 
> ...


True battery technology is advancing but still falls short while the cost is advancing faster than the technology. As for needing only a bucket full of batteries and a couple of chargers.... make it two buckets one for the batteries and the other for hundred dollar bills to replenish the batteries that die and are removed from bucket number 1. If a company could make their batteries live as long as their tools they would be the #1 Brand


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## Rich Engelhardt (Nov 10, 2008)

Ridgid Tools - has a lifetime service agreement that covers the batteries. They say that as long as you meet the terms of the LSA - they will replace worn out batteries at no cost.
I'd love to go Ridgid - but - they don't offer the tools that I need like Makita does.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Rich Engelhardt said:


> Ridgid Tools - has a lifetime service agreement that covers the batteries. They say that as long as you meet the terms of the LSA - they will replace worn out batteries at no cost.
> I'd love to go Ridgid - but - they don't offer the tools that I need like Makita does.


Ridgid sounds like a great deal. I don't have a Home Depot near me and had the Ridgid Shop Vac and their belt/spindle sander shipped in. Both are of good quality.


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## Mike_C (Jul 11, 2020)

Just in time for our thread - Hikoki (Metabo HPT) release a cordless 1/2 router

Tools&stuff review


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

I had an 18 volt Hitachi cordless drill. It was great until the battery died. Drill still worked but could buy a new drill with battery for about the same as the set.


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## RiovistaAndy (Feb 20, 2019)

Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> The router would be top heavy...


I've checked out several different brands and models of routers. I bought a corded large plunge one and a battery powered palm type. The large one worked as expected. The battery powered one felt extreamly top heavy and wa close to the weight of the corded.one. returned the battery one and picked up a corded one. Happy as a clam in mud.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

my biggest problem with battery tools is having to replace the batteries. We use a cordless Milwaukee backpack vacuum to clean up and down the various decks around the engine spaces on the ships. The vacuum is very handy because the utility man is not having to constantly unplug and replug extension cords as he goes around the engine room. However the vacuum was more than $100 more expensive than a corded backpack vacuum and that's not including the $160 a piece batteries that go with it. He typically goes through two battery charges a day to get all the spaces clean. After one year we've had to replace two batteries. Starting to get very expensive. Yes it is very convenient and he loves it, yes it's very handy and saves a few man hours, but I think it would be hard to justify the cost over the convenience.

At home my drill drivers are all smaller lithium ion Hitachi's. Nothing more than a 3/8 drill is battery powered. My half-inch drill is corded, and the dedicated drill that I use for pocket holes is corded because it was only $29.

The only time I really run into an issue using corded routers is when using circle cutting jigs. I solve this by using a template guide bushing in the center of my circle cutting jig, so that I can always keep the router pointed and the same orientation and the cord never gets wrapped up in a circle


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## RiovistaAndy (Feb 20, 2019)

kp91 said:


> my biggest problem with battery tools is having to replace the batteries. We use a cordless Milwaukee backpack vacuum to clean up and down the various decks around the engine spaces on the ships. The vacuum is very handy because the utility man is not having to constantly unplug and replug extension cords as he goes around the engine room. However the vacuum was more than $100 more expensive than a corded backpack vacuum and that's not including the $160 a piece batteries that go with it. He typically goes through two battery charges a day to get all the spaces clean. After one year we've had to replace two batteries. Starting to get very expensive. Yes it is very convenient and he loves it, yes it's very handy and saves a few man hours, but I think it would be hard to justify the cost over the convenience.
> 
> At home my drill drivers are all smaller lithium ion Hitachi's. Nothing more than a 3/8 drill is battery powered. My half-inch drill is corded, and the dedicated drill that I use for pocket holes is corded because it was only $29.
> 
> The only time I really run into an issue using corded routers is when using circle cutting jigs. I solve this by using a template guide bushing in the center of my circle cutting jig, so that I can always keep the router pointed and the same orientation and the cord never gets wrapped up in a circle


A few weeks ago my stepson needed new DeWalt batteries for his company. He found a sales ad at HD for Dewalt battery powered drills that came with a battery that was priced about 15% less than buying just a battery. One per customer restriction, no problem he had his whole crew of 15 guys go in and buy the drills. Kept one for himself along with all the batteries and gave the rest to his crews. His original batteries were still good for about an hour so he gave them to the guys with the drills.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Talk to me when you have to buy three or four new Dewalt batteries because you can only get 15 minutes out of a charge. Then talk to me when you're in an area 30 miles from civilization and off the grid. Give me a generator and corded tools not an excuse why the job can't be finished that day.


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

I would not have a cordless router, cable only for me, I like to plug it in and use it, not spend time charge it to use later, also. I often set up to use one all day so no way cordless lasts all day, I would have to charge it again then wait, or put it on and off the charge as the day went along. N


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I have DeWalt 18v tools and all use the same battery. Tried the 20v DeWalts and the adapter and that sucked. So I buy the occasional new large battery. It's workable, especially for outdoor projects. I get a couple of years from each battery. I have saved a couple of the older ones in hopes of having them rebuilt. Don't bother with the smaller ones. Tools include, circ saw, reciprocating saw, jig saw, hammer drill, two regular drills. All my routers are corded, don't have much need for cordless router. 

Most of my outdoor construction is done with screws. Nails in this climate always fail.


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