# Deluxe Push Block



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Deluxe Push Block for the Oak-Park box jigs.

This push block will let you use all 3 of the Oak-Park Box Jigs 1/4", 3/8", 1/2".
With this push block you will not need to make the offset block just set the 1st part in place and run the other two after.
The front part will need to be replace from time to time but the stop block will help.
It's a easy and quick one to make , The push block will hold the parts true and sq. to the table and the bit.
Just put on the 3/8" box jig, set the bit with the brass bar, then move the side part on the push block so it rides right next to the rail on the jig, clamp the parts, you are ready to cut the slots.

I got the hint from the links below, and I didn't want to pay 50 dollars for something I could make. 

The one below is for 3/8" only. ▼
http://pricecutter.com/product.asp?pn=400-1255&c2p=cs&Box+Joint+Jig<br>Push+Block&bhcd2=1162583550
http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...e/3598-60-degree-chamfer-bit-boxpushblock.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/router-bits-types-usage/3503-60-degree-chamfer-bit.html#post35002


If you need any more info just ask and I will post it.

Just a NOTE *** I found out the hard way I should have removed the sand paper from the spot the bit will come throught the stock and into the back board, it will dull the bit when it hits the sand paper.
Just a take a sharp knife and remove a 3/4" wide by 1" high piece.


Bj


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Very nice BJ....

That is a deluxe job if I ever seen one.

I'm going to save this and revisit the pictures when I have time to build one.

Thanks for sharing.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Bob

Being a cheap SOB ,I like to make my own jigs , and this one works great and it will save a step or two when making box joints, like making the offset block that Bob and Rick use.
Plus I didn't like holding the stock with one hand and pushing it over the bit with the other.
Things can happen so quick with a router and I do want to keep all my parts   still using MOST of them. 

Bj


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

I'm not about to ask which parts you have stopped using   

I agree... you can never be too careful using any power tool and most especially a router.


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## mpphoto (May 7, 2006)

Good timing Bj. I used a couple of 2x4s screwed together last week to make box joints and kept thinking I really need to make a proper push block.

If you're leaving the material clamped, how is the push block moving over each time since it only has one bottom slot to ride the fence rail?

(I used to think I was smart but woodworking has proven otherwise)

Michael


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Michael

I just unclamp the stock and move it over and reclamp it then make the next slot.
The sand paper holds it with just a bit of help from the hand clamp.
Plus it keeps my fingers back and away from the bit when I make the pass.
The two clamped parts in the snapshot ,just to show how to set it up for both parts.
No need to use the slide on offset block that Bob and Rick use.
The 1st. slot is always true no matter how wide the board is, just flip it around and use it for the offset, just like the block that Bob and Rick use but in this case you don't need to make one..  because you just did. 

Bj


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## mpphoto (May 7, 2006)

Aaah, got it.
Very similar to the block I was going to make, but yours is much fancier 

thanks-
Michael


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Michael

The neat part about the jig is that you can use it for ALL the box jigs, I'm working on a way to use it for making 3/4" slots, I think that would look neat in 3/4" thick stock. 
That's why you see a 3/4" wide slot in the base.

Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Michael

Can you please post a snapshot of the jig you made I sure would like to see it. 

Thanks
Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

This is excellent Bob, thanks for posting it! Definitely has a couple plus's over just using a block and like you said, you don't have to make the offset piece either. Nice!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Corey

I was in the shop today using it and it's works great for some scrap MDF stock. LOL
I made some small drawers that needed the 1/4" and 2 that needed the 3/8" slots, both sizes turn out true and sq. and right on the button...
I wanted to make a big drawer that needed the 3/4" wide slots but I did settle on the 1/2" size because I was to lazzy to play with reworking the jig (Push block) for 3/4" wide slots.
Some cold and wet day I will play with it and get it done. 

Bj


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## mpphoto (May 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Michael
> 
> Can you please post a snapshot of the jig you made I sure would like to see it.
> 
> ...


Still making it  but will certainly post it when it's finished.
(This weekend was "spray" weekend. Spraying shellac and poly on desks etc)

The one I used last week was 2 pcs of 2x3 screwed together. Very "primitive". I thought they provided enough support but I managed to slide the wood over the bit skewed more than once resulting in not-so-perfect fitting joints. That's when I decided I needed a pushblock that would ride the rail; then it wouldn't twist.

Michael


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Michael

It's been almost 180 days , and the forum was slow today so I started to look back at some of the old posted items and come across this one. 

Did you make the push block for your router table and if so do you have a snapshot or two of what you made .... ????

Bj


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Bj,

I have been looking at your push block for a couple of months and want you to know that is is on my list of projects to make. Right now I am working on my first box and it has been quite an adventure. Since the box and dovetail joints will play a large part in my future box making, I think your push block is a must have item in my shop. Thanks for sharing your idea.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Me to...well with a few mods. I think the box joint jigs are more accurate and safe with a push block like this. Seems like I am never going to get back into the shop though... with the father-in-law going into heart surgery in the morning that will be some long recovery and then that damn kitchen. Good thing is I don't have any work trips planned for at least a month.. maybe 2! 

Corey


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Very good, Bob.


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

*Pakuri(noun)*

Thank you, Bj san.
I made a copy.

copy:an imitation of an original work.
I found it in a dictionary. What is a difference between copy and imitate, I wonder.
My friend said "crib" is good in this situation.
"Pakuru(verb)" is a informal(slang) Japanese which is used like this case.
We used to say "Bj san, paku-chai-masita(I cribed)". This means "Thank you, Bj san. I copied it because that must be very useful to me."

Anyway, "learn" translated into "manabu" in Japanese. 
This original meaning of "manabu" comes from "maneru" which means imitate.
A skill is started to imitate of his master's. 
Then, this kind of changes is happened, I think.
So, please let me imitate anything.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

WOW Nice one Benny, you pulled off a top notch, copy or maneru on this push block. Excellent work. 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Benny san

You did a great job , that's the best compliment of all ,when some copies a jig..and puts it's to work  I should note this same jig (push block) will work for 1/8" slot joints for making wooden hinges... 

Bj


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Great work once again Bob. Now I would take bets on you having a video camera, that being the case, could you not persuade you're bride to guide the camera one day whilst you are working you're magic?


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Yeah, what Harry said Bob! How about while making your mini router table. Then again, my wife would probably tell me that she's got better things to do than spend time in the "Cave"  that's what they call my shop!

Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Hi Bob, would it be to much trouble to give the dimensions of your push block or at least the base. I want to make one of these. I will make a simpler version that is dedicated to 1/4 box joints. I have the 3/8 jig as well but I will make another later. Just quicker for me  but if you could give the basic dimensions I sure would appreciate it!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey and Harry

Well it's almost done, just waiting for the router to show up Thur. 
Then I just need to put the hole in the top for the router to drop in place,,,plug into the outlet and fire it up,so to speak  LOL..


It's wired for power,I was thinking painting it white but not sure about that yet, but it may come about waiting for the UPS truck to show up about 3:30 Thur...

It should take about 1 hour or so to mount the router and take it for a test run and by that time I should be making dinner or the BOSS will be on my ass .. 

I was thinking about a paint job tonight but it's been raining and the paint may not dry just right...and I hate to tape stuff off for a paint job so it may be just plain MDF stock. 

Got the fence done today and it's a new type that should work out great it's like yours Corey but with some add on items,3/4" thick x 4 1/4" wide x 22" long with a bit guard and a Vac. pickup (2 1/2" port) drilled right into the white poly. fence, it's setup to suck the chips right out the top of the fence and it can be use from both sides of the fence, one nice clean side and one side to hide the bit in . 

No black port to bolt on or get in the way... this time...

Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Can't wait to see it Bob.. especially that fence! Take a photo while your routing the top out will yah? I want to see how you do that. Your table will make mine look like crap...lol. Like your push block does to my block with a shaker peg!

BJ not to get off the path here but when you said that about cooking dinner it made me think of my Father-In-Law. I expect that you are a pretty damn good cook! My father in law was as well. He baked, did deserts, meats everything and when my mother in law got cancer 15 years ago and was taking Chemo he started doing all the cooking then and has been doing it all since then. All the holiday dinners etc. and forget the presents on Christmas morning.... Christmas breakfast was a site to behold! 
Since he is gone now... the holidays won't be the same for more than one reason! He was well known to the high school football and soccer teams besides being their number one fan! He catered a weekly spaghetti feed for each team during each season.. complete with salad and garlic bread... and my wife and I served the players and their parents each week while grandpa was cooking more spaghetti! 

Sorry, didn't mean to get off on that but your post reminded me of him... when you said the wife would be on your ass...... 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Yep , I'm the cook and I do enjoy it , I make all kinds of food, the Boss makes Thanksgiving dinner but I do get to cut the bird and cut the cheesy  but I do get to clean up after also.. 

I make it all from soup to nuts you should see and taste my cinnamon rolls they are about 3 1/2'" in dia. and about 2 1/2" thick ,when I made them all the kids nail them and take them home,, I make about 40 or so and they are gone in 20 mins.  one will fill you up and they are good    I also make a apple pie that would make your mouth water , I use green apples,and pears,org.can of fruit cocktail and what every I have around, it's great stuff, just a bit of ice cream on top and your set...  to enjoy the best pie in the world.. 

Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

That's just scarey... you sound like him when you talk about cooking! The pie sounds good... he messed for years on pie crusts. He makes a goodin! 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

What's with all you guys who cook, are you trying to make me feel inadequate? At least when people used to react with disbelief I was able to assure them that I could repair video recorders better than they or anyone they knew could! and I have a thick scrapbook of newspaper & magazine clippings to back it up!


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Bj,

Those rolls sound GREAT! Maybe we should we should request a new forum section for recipe swaps   

I love to cook, but hate the clean up. Here is my favorite cooking "tool" and I have 3 of them, one of each size. :sold:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

I have one and use it from time to time also , I think it's the 1st. "set it and forget it" cooker, like the one you see on TV but without any cords 

I got the recipe for the rolls from a mate in Fort Collins,Co. at a truck stop on I-25 and truckers will drive 200 miles out of the way to get some,,,they had a 15 min.thing on TV about the truck stop and the rolls.. 
I make two kinds, one that light and one that's hvy.,,.the hvy. ones I like best 

Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

"basic dimensions I sure would appreciate it!"
Will do that today 

But do go the extra mile and make it fit ALL the box joint jigs you will be glad you did and it's not to much more work to do it...dedicated is nice but one jig to do it all ,well ... 
The one I made will do up to 5/8" but I wish I made it bigger to take on the 1" slot and the 3/4" so now if I want to do 1" I need to made a new one and I'm lazzy and it will be a long time b/4 I make a new one..just for that....and because I'm lazzy I'm sure I will just use a old type peg push block 

Bj 



challagan said:


> Hi Bob, would it be to much trouble to give the dimensions of your push block or at least the base. I want to make one of these. I will make a simpler version that is dedicated to 1/4 box joints. I have the 3/8 jig as well but I will make another later. Just quicker for me  but if you could give the basic dimensions I sure would appreciate it!
> 
> Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey Corey

Here's are some dimensions, if you need more just ask.  
plus some other snapshots  of the new router table, it's not done yet BUT maybe today.. 

Bj 


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Bj,

You got that table looking good guy, almost as nice as Corey's   

Where are you getting all that nice white plastic stuff for the fence and the table top. I need to get some of that myself.

I think you have about convinced me to start working on my box joint push block also. I really like the looks and functionality of yours and I will take your advice and make it big enough to begin with because I am lazy also and don't want to make a 2nd one later.

Thanks for all the tips on this topic.

PS.... I keep looking for that recipe in my mail box but something on the net must be delaying it.... hint hint


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

Thanks and thanks to Corey, I just copied his..

The fence stuff I got off eBay in bag of mixed sizes, I think it was 10.oo bucks the 1/4" white plastic I got out of the TRASH CAN  it was a sign for a company and this was the back side of it ,it was 3' x 6' but I take a bit and some here... 
Now I need to go looking again because I'm out... 

You will like the push block the 1st time you use it 

It makes it easy and safe 

After dinner tonight I will sit down and send the recipe to you via. email..
\
Well I off going to post 29 pictures of the new table that I copied from Corey   got it done today and it works great ... that's a 5 star router  


Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Allright looking good bud! Thanks for the pics and dimensions Bob. I love that fence with the dust chute on top. Nice! Glad you like the router as well!

Corey


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

*What(which) bit I should buy*

Please let me know.
Is "Up Cut" suitable when I want to make a joint using "Push Block",

Info. : http://www.routerforums.com/router-bits-types-usage/3178-up-cut-down-cut.html


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Benny

Yes,
Spiral Upcut
http://www.routerforums.com/32345-post3.html

Bj 




Benny LaBaw said:


> Please let me know.
> Is "Up Cut" suitable when I want to make a joint using "Push Block",
> 
> Info. : http://www.routerforums.com/router-bits-types-usage/3178-up-cut-down-cut.html


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

*The first trial.*

I did a first joint.
An operation is not difficult, but I need accurate setting of a wood-plate.

And a width of a projection of a fence and a width of a cut of a bit is little bit difference.
So I wonder I need a check of setting which I choose a point at blue triable or green triangle.

But it might be a good result for the first trial to me ?


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I would say that is the norm 3 or 4 times to get the joint you want. I did my last ones in 2. Looks like the 2nd was a good fit just not long enough pins. Great job Benny!

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Benny, YOU"RE 3rd attempt was a lot better than MY 3rd attempt, I think that you're skills are greater than you would have us believe.


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

Corey san,
Harry san,

Thank you very much for your postings which are encouragement to me.
Someday I wish I could post a finished work.


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

*The first BOX joint*

A wood is Japanese-Cedar. Maybe Yaku-Cedar, I am not sure. A thickness:4mm
Wide:120mm Deapth:150mm height:65mm

Joints are glued, then forced to fit by clamp.

It might be good for me to think that it is not bad as the first one.

Harry san
Thank you for pointing out my mistakes, and also encouragement.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Benny, you are a fast learner, it's a first class job and the wood grain is beautiful, however I don't understand the measurements, could you have made a mistake?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Very Nice Benny

Looks like you have it down now... 

===========


Benny LaBaw said:


> A wood is Japanese-Cedar. Maybe Yaku-Cedar, I am not sure. A thickness:4mm
> Wide:12mm Deapth:15mm height:6.5mm
> 
> Joints are glued, then forced to fit by clamp.
> ...


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

Harry san,
Bj san,

Thank you for your encouragements.
As you know, just "look like".
I must to have a skill about how to use it.
So, please help next time.

-----------
Bj san
I think it true.
A nature is the great teacher.


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

*The 2nd. Box joint*

A drawer. A pine which is 14mm thickness.
I did two mistakes.
But I think I might understand a little bit how to use it.
So I would like to ask you all members to let me know a EASY practice about using "DOVETAIL bit" with Spacer Fences by Oak Park.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Benny

The link below may help, but besure to read the note about the corners. (dovetails )

http://www.routerworkshop.com/boxjoints.html


===========



Benny LaBaw said:


> A drawer. A pine which is 14mm thickness.
> I did two mistakes.
> But I think I might understand a little bit how to use it.
> So I would like to ask you all members to let me know a EASY practice about using "DOVETAIL bit" with Spacer Fences by Oak Park.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Benny, the reason for mistake #1 was you glued two pieces together and forgot to cut only one end when you did. I see the joint.
Mistake #2 is very easy to make. When you lay out the pieces mark them Left, right, front, back and put an up arrow on all of them. Mark the outside, do it the same every time.
Your box joints look very good. You learn quickly, be proud of your work.


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

Bj san
Thank you for informations.
Straight might be easy, but dovetail is not, isn't it ?
I will try.

Mike san
Thank you for your assistance.
After being teached, I could figure out what is what, perhapes...
Woodworking is not easy one

Please help next time.
Thank you.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome Benny san

Dovetails are one of the hardest joints to get right ever time that's why you see so many jigs,,,,but on the other hand it's one of the best looking and the best holding of all the wood joints.. 


===========





Benny LaBaw said:


> Bj san
> Thank you for informations.
> Straight might be easy, but dovetail is not, isn't it ?
> I will try.
> ...


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

*The 3rd. Box Joint*

Trial and Failure

Material:Zelkova (7mm)
Size:100 * 103 * 103(H)

I do not adjust about right angle on corners.
I do only a good fitting joint parts.

So.. not right angle.
I need more trainings.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Benny

Looks good,here's shop made jig that will help keep it square at glue up.


==========


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Benny san, that doesn't look all that bad. Looks good to me. Patience and practice will help you improve.


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

Bj san, Dave san, Thank you for your kindness.

Bj san, I will try squar good. Thaank you for info every time.
Dave san, I can not find patience in my Dic.


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Benny San,

It's not in the dictionary, it's in your heart.

Ed......


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Benny san,

Patience is the ability to endure waiting, delay, or provocation without becoming annoyed or upset, or to persevere calmly when faced with difficulties.


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

The 4th. Box Joint

This time, by all members' help, might be almost good.

This is called "Udukuri Shiage" which is the first of my trial.
"Udukuri" is a tool which is made of fibre of plant.
It is simple way of doing which I only scrub the soft part off the wood-plate.
Uzukuri is close to our pronouniation.
"Shiage" means "Finish".


---
Bj san
Squar good is useful. Thank you.
Ed san
That is right. I am not the French in ancient times. (^_^)
Dr.Zook
Thank you for your mental therapy.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Benny,

Beautiful job!! :sold: I especially like that grain pattern. You are doing quite well.


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## don1 (Jan 6, 2009)

*Bob J.'s Deluxe Push Block Jig*

WOW! is all I can say about this super-looking Jig. I was all set to make one and studied it very carefully. Then when I was studying the bottom of it, I noticed a funny looking horse-shoe like hole. I'll be darned if I can figure that out. I'm sure it is important, so don't want to make the Jig for nothing. Does anyone know what it's function is?
Thanks guys - Don


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Don

I used a old jig to make a new one ,,,the horse-shoe like hole is just a little bit left over from the old jig and it's not needed 

here's a drawing of what the old one looked like 

see below


=======


don1 said:


> WOW! is all I can say about this super-looking Jig. I was all set to make one and studied it very carefully. Then when I was studying the bottom of it, I noticed a funny looking horse-shoe like hole. I'll be darned if I can figure that out. I'm sure it is important, so don't want to make the Jig for nothing. Does anyone know what it's function is?
> Thanks guys - Don


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

BJ, the list of videos on your posts indicate that you can see videos at woodshopdemos.com. (a great website)

I go to the site a lot, but I can't find the videos. Can you tell me how to access them.

Thanks

Steve Bolton


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI SB

No videos on that site so to speak, but it's like a video but one frame at a time 

===



S Bolton said:


> BJ, the list of videos on your posts indicate that you can see videos at woodshopdemos.com. (a great website)
> 
> I go to the site a lot, but I can't find the videos. Can you tell me how to access them.
> 
> ...


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Oh. Well, if there were videos on that website it would be just like me to not know about it for years. A lawyer's reading of your post would indicate that you think there is a video there.

Just kidding. 

We should have a lawyer's joke section on this forum.


Thanks

SB


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

S Bolton said:


> We should have a lawyer's joke section on this forum.


And, one for puns, as well.

A "deluxe" push block would actually be made of Bubinga, not MDF.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ralph 

It's a jig not a piece of furniture ,, and MDF is flat and true right out of the Orange box so to speak..


====



Ralph Barker said:


> And, one for puns, as well.
> 
> A "deluxe" push block would actually be made of Bubinga, not MDF.


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## don1 (Jan 6, 2009)

Great looking jig Bob:
I would like make one following your design. The only thing that stumps me is the picture at the top (far right) that seems to have a U-shape hole in the bottom of the jig. Could you tell me what that is for? Don


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## don1 (Jan 6, 2009)

Can't seem to reply. Let's see if this helps.


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## don1 (Jan 6, 2009)

Yep, that did it. 
Ok Bob: Great jig you got there. I would like to build one following your design, but I noticed in your top row of pictures (far right) that the bottom of the jig has a horseshoe-like hole in it Could you tell me what that is for?
Thanks - Don


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Don

see post below
http://www.routerforums.com/95405-post59.html


=====



don1 said:


> Yep, that did it.
> Ok Bob: Great jig you got there. I would like to build one following your design, but I noticed in your top row of pictures (far right) that the bottom of the jig has a horseshoe-like hole in it Could you tell me what that is for?
> Thanks - Don


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Hi Bob,
I got my Oak Park table set up today and I want to build this push block. I got most of the dimensions from this post but still need a few things. Can you tell me the dimensions of the handle? What is the depth of the dados for the handle in the front and base pieces? These probably aren't critical measurements but I need the extra help This is a GREAT push block btw! Thanks!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Deb

Thanks 

The easy way is to use a hand saw,, just take off the blade, stick it on some stock and use a trim bit to copy it  just drill a hole for the bit to drop in the hand part of the handle...it's about a 15 min. job and it's a fun one to do... 

Or if you have a push stick like the one below it makes a great template 

When I do it ,I make 4 or so, they can be used on many jigs (push blocks)  you can get fancy and put on a dovetail key on each handle you make , in that way you can just slide them in the jigs  (sliding dovetail )

" depth of the dados " it can be just about anything you want to use ,,,I use 1/4" to 3/8" deep the norm..


======



CanuckGal said:


> Hi Bob,
> I got my Oak Park table set up today and I want to build this push block. I got most of the dimensions from this post but still need a few things. Can you tell me the dimensions of the handle? What is the depth of the dados for the handle in the front and base pieces? These probably aren't critical measurements but I need the extra help This is a GREAT push block btw! Thanks!


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Hey you gave me an idea. I have a bunch of old saws, maybe 20 or so, they are all unusable old and rusted.

How about taking off the handles and just using them instead of even copying them!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Nick

That would be great but you need that square edge on the bottom and the front the norm.
But I'm sure you know how to cut the blade off square with a chisel .. ,,,then just use it like a spline insert.. 


======



nickao65 said:


> Hey you gave me an idea. I have a bunch of old saws, maybe 20 or so, they are all unusable old and rusted.
> 
> How about taking off the handles and just using them instead of even copying them!


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Pretty cool, I just never could throw some of these trashed tools away now I have a use for them!


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## don1 (Jan 6, 2009)

*Question re the deluxe push block*

Hi there Bj:

I have been studing your Deluxe Push Block very carefully and am going to build one just like it for my Oak Park Spacer Fences.
Is all the material MDF and what thickness? Especially the bottom of the jig. I was thinking it might be 1/4" material to ride on the 1/4" high spacer, but I suppose it could be 1/2"? Kind of hard to tell by the pictures even though they are excellent. Also what about the thickness of the board that has the sandpaper attached to it. 
I have never been this excited about making a jig for a long time. It's design also gives me other ideas. You must be one smart fella.
Thanks - don1


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI don1

You're right on the button 1/4" stock on the base, you need to keep it as thin as you can ,some of the bits are short and you need all you can get from them, i.e. when you are doing 3/4" thick stock..it's all made with MDF, it's clean and flat from the getgo... 

The backup board can be just about anything ,it will need to be replace from time to time, note don't make the same error I did ,, cut the sand paper out where the bit meets the back board, I didn't and it dulled the bit on the 1st pass or two,,I forgot what sand paper is made for   

" smart fella " No, I just love to made jigs...sometimes they work and sometimes they don't and they become firewood   I have made my share of firewood .... LOL.....

========= 




don1 said:


> Hi there Bj:
> 
> I have been studing your Deluxe Push Block very carefully and am going to build one just like it for my Oak Park Spacer Fences.
> Is all the material MDF and what thickness? Especially the bottom of the jig. I was thinking it might be 1/4" material to ride on the 1/4" high spacer, but I suppose it could be 1/2"? Kind of hard to tell by the pictures even though they are excellent. Also what about the thickness of the board that has the sandpaper attached to it.
> ...


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## don1 (Jan 6, 2009)

Many thanks Bob. I will probably get back to you if I run into any snags.
Don


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## don1 (Jan 6, 2009)

DELUXE PUSH BLOCK
Hi again Bob:
I started the Deluxe Push Block this afternoon and hope to have it done sometime tomorrow.
One of your pictures shows a clamp and its captions reads: "Glue plate on the end of clamp - No Mar Plate". Could you explain what it means?
I hope to get some pictures up and running on the forum when my project is completed.
Thanks again - Don


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Don

I think you are talking about the one below,,,the no mar plate is use with that type of "c" clamp, as you know they do like to dig in, and mar the stock ,you can use other types but they are very long the norm and are in the way most of the time..

It's just some scrap 1/4" thick MDF stock that's glued on the end of the clamp to keep it from digging in..
The block is use for the 1st. and 2nd slots, to keep the board true,the 1st slot and 2nd slot,you put in as no way, so to speak to keep it from moving to one side or other when the bit is pushed in the the board...the bit likes to pull stock over just a little bit and the stop/guide block will stop that error...

=====



don1 said:


> DELUXE PUSH BLOCK
> Hi again Bob:
> I started the Deluxe Push Block this afternoon and hope to have it done sometime tomorrow.
> One of your pictures shows a clamp and its captions reads: "Glue plate on the end of clamp - No Mar Plate". Could you explain what it means?
> ...


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

*I might understand a basic operation.*

I might understand a basic operation.

I still continue to make a box-joinnted small box.
This time, I used 3/8" Roundover to make corner round.

I can not do well about detail-working.
But, basic operations with OP fence, I might understand.

Next time, I will try Dovetail joint.
I am glad if you can teach me about it.

(The close-uped joint part is a good example of BAD sanding, and also bad feed-direction,I think.)


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

How nice to hear from you Benny, it's been quite a while even though I've seen you visiting the forum on odd occasions. You have made great progress both with woodwork and your English. Your box joints do you proud. At least a year ago I said you were making good progress and you have kept it up.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Don
> 
> I think you are talking about the one below,,,the no mar plate is use with that type of "c" clamp, as you know they do like to dig in, and mar the stock ,you can use other types but they are very long the norm and are in the way most of the time..
> 
> ...



Being the lazy sort and not having Bj's skills, this link will show you the simplified "copy" of Bj's pusher

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/7445d1187835847-finger-joints-pusher1.jpg


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

Harry san
Thank you for your kindness of allways.
Yes, it is really a "long tome no see".
I started routing again, and try to continue... I will.
So, please teach me on everthing.
Thank you very much.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome back Benny san. Glad to see you are still routing and doing a fine job of it.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

*base?*

hello bobj,

i see the width is 8 3/4 wide, but i couldnt find the length of the basepiece. i probably overlooked it, but could you post it?

thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi levon

http://www.routerforums.com/45465-post31.html

just add the two up...but it can be any size you want it to be 



========



levon said:


> hello bobj,
> 
> i see the width is 8 3/4 wide, but i couldnt find the length of the basepiece. i probably overlooked it, but could you post it?
> 
> thanks


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

thanks bobj,

i finally see that the length of the basepiece is 7 inches not counting 3/4 inch for the front piece.

i started building one today and made a mistake on my handle, so im gonna get another piece of mdf tomorrow and i think i will make it totally over. i had a small scrap of mdf 7 inches wide. i think i want to build it as wide as yours. i finally understand everything you did. sometimes i have to really study the pictures before i get it, lol


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome Bud

" really study the pictures before i get it" me too 


======



levon said:


> thanks bobj,
> 
> i finally see that the length of the basepiece is 7 inches not counting 3/4 inch for the front piece.
> 
> i started building one today and made a mistake on my handle, so im gonna get another piece of mdf tomorrow and i think i will make it totally over. i had a small scrap of mdf 7 inches wide. i think i want to build it as wide as yours. i finally understand everything you did. sometimes i have to really study the pictures before i get it, lol


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

sorry bobj,

one more question, it looks like from the pic and my eyes arent the bes, that you have one 3/4 inch mdf, then one 1/4 inch mdf then the two pieces of the 1/4 inch that has the adjustable piece. in other words you have a double thickness of 1/4 inch mdf on the bottom?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi levon

Your right on ,, the one on the bottom is the one that guides the push block do the rail, the 2nd 1/4" one is in place to make sure it slides free without any hang up from the 3/4" main base jig...,the 3/4" one needs to go all the way down in front and flush..so the 1/4" needs to keep it running free and smooth ..one can be eliminated if you only one to use it for one size of slots..
I will note if you set it up right you can use it to put in 3/4" box joints...and blind box joints..  all with the same jig........


======



levon said:


> sorry bobj,
> 
> one more question, it looks like from the pic and my eyes arent the bes, that you have one 3/4 inch mdf, then one 1/4 inch mdf then the two pieces of the 1/4 inch that has the adjustable piece. in other words you have a double thickness of 1/4 inch mdf on the bottom?


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

After a couple of trials with my first attempt at this push block I realized it wasn't square (front face to table). It was giving me grief with my box joints. So this is my second version. I still like this concept very much! Thanks Bob!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Your Welcome Deb

You did a great job making it 

====



CanuckGal said:


> After a couple of trials with my first attempt at this push block I realized it wasn't square (front face to table). It was giving me grief with my box joints. So this is my second version. I still like this concept very much! Thanks Bob!


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Deb,

great looking push block. ive looked at several different versions of this push block on the forum and after finally understanding it am going to build it. each person has to adjust it to their own table. i am going to make my base longer than bj's because of the stop block. if i didnt it would have no support by the handle and would be so extended it wouldnt be stable.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Levon I thought it would be a fairly standard size for the OP jigs, but I see a lot of people have made their own box joint jigs and push blocks and Bob's own modification for the 3/4"? box joint. My second one is actually much different from the first in that I made up my own dimensions on the fly. I am sure it's pretty close to Bob's directions. Most importantly it works great and I highly recommend it to everyone trying to make box joints especially beginners like me! And being adjustable means saving space for other jigs Bob will prompt us to build I'm sure.  I already have a list!


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

youre right Deb about having room for more of bob's jigs,lol

i watched bob andd rick making the box joints and know they are pros and know what they are doing, but as a novice, i want my fingers farther away from the bit!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

A really nice job Deb, but tell me, what are the two knobs on the right?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Benny LaBaw said:


> Harry san
> Thank you for your kindness of allways.
> Yes, it is really a "long tome no see".
> I started routing again, and try to continue... I will.
> ...



"So, please teach me on everything."

Wow, Benny, that's a tall order, how many years have you set aside to be taught EVERYTHING?

I'm sure all members of the forum will be happy to answer all your questions, as you must have realised by now, outcomes can be achieved in many different ways, you must choose whatever methods you are comfortable with.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Harry the two knobs adjust the sliding plate underneath to fit the different OP spacer fences. This keeps the jig tight to the spacers and means you only need one jig for all three (1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch) spacer fences. The other knob is for the stop block that keeps you from running the jig into the bit.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

CanuckGal said:


> Harry the two knobs adjust the sliding plate underneath to fit the different OP spacer fences. This keeps the jig tight to the spacers and means you only need one jig for all three (1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch) spacer fences. The other knob is for the stop block that keeps you from running the jig into the bit.


Gotcha Derb, even though I have all three spacer fences so far I've only used the 1/4" one as my projects these days are usually quite small, hence no adjustment.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Deb and nice job on the push block. I may very well get out in the shop and put one together myself now that I have seen yours 

Thanks BJ for the great orginal design!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks for the compliments!


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## don1 (Jan 6, 2009)

Your right on ,, the one on the bottom is the one that guides the push block do the rail, the 2nd 1/4" one is in place to make sure it slides free without any hang up from the 3/4" main base jig...,the 3/4" one needs to go all the way down in front and flush..so the 1/4" needs to keep it running free and smooth ..one can be eliminated if you only one to use it for one size of slots..
I will note if you set it up right you can use it to put in 3/4" box joints...and blind box joints.. all with the same jig........

Hey Bob:
Why not just use one 1/2" sliding bottom piece instead of two 1/4" pieces?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Don

One is needed to setup the guide ,so it can do 1/4" to 3/8" all with one jig... 

=======




don1 said:


> Your right on ,, the one on the bottom is the one that guides the push block do the rail, the 2nd 1/4" one is in place to make sure it slides free without any hang up from the 3/4" main base jig...,the 3/4" one needs to go all the way down in front and flush..so the 1/4" needs to keep it running free and smooth ..one can be eliminated if you only one to use it for one size of slots..
> I will note if you set it up right you can use it to put in 3/4" box joints...and blind box joints.. all with the same jig........
> 
> Hey Bob:
> Why not just use one 1/2" sliding bottom piece instead of two 1/4" pieces?


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## awoodnut (May 2, 2009)

*? on making push block*

Hello Guys

I don't have my oak park jigs yet but going to get the push block and dust collector/ vac hookup BobJ showed in his pic. I did like the one Benny did also.

I have acouple questions since I am working just off pics. The slide on the right side, that moves in or out to adjust to the width of the runner that the completed fingers slide on...correct? 

That bing tru it needs to adjust from 1/4 " to 3/4"? The face board dosn't move so the opening in it needs to be just a little over 3/4' wide by how high?

The opening for the bit I just let the bit make on the first pass.....after 
removing a bit of the sandpaper?

Also on that stacked bit that Bobj did for 1/8" box joint. What is that blade or combination of blades called? Do I need bearing in between each blade? also is there a reason a 1/8" oak park type jig wouldn't work?


Thanks for the help and the awsome ideas.

Mike R


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I will say it's best to have the OP jigs in your hand 1st..then it will make sense 

The slide part is need to keep it running true with the ploy.guide in the OP jigs..
The guide part of the jigs are up buy 1/4" off the main body of the jig..

" What is that blade or combination of blades called? " I think you are talking about the bit below.
1 PC 1/2" SH 5 Slots Adjustable Box Joint Router Bit - eBay (item 140319383689 end time May-14-09 17:10:49 PDT)

" also is there a reason a 1/8" oak park type jig wouldn't work? "

I have not tried it but my guess, the guide would be just to thin,it would flex I would guess,,but all things can be done...but can it be done over and over without a error.. and 1/8" bits like to break very easy..that's why slot cutters work so well..  the mass of the cutter keeps them running true..

=========

=====




awoodnut said:


> Hello Guys
> 
> I don't have my oak park jigs yet but going to get the push block and dust collector/ vac hookup BobJ showed in his pic. I did like the one Benny did also.
> 
> ...


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## awoodnut (May 2, 2009)

*Patience is a virtue*

Hello Bob J

I am shure it would be a little easier with the jig in hand but I am off work waiting for it to dry out so I can paint so need something to do.

Patience is a virtue but I not very virtues. Never had much and don't seem to be getting any better when it comes to new toys.

I probably won't get the oak park jigs for a little while. I am going to try some small tennon and morter boxs. Also mite try Harry's cuff link box but will rechristen a ring box.....may make momma happy.

I am shooting for the router and set up bars now and then will work on a few bits. I think I have enough now to do the small boxs I want to try. 

Thanks Mike R


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## Stefang (Feb 10, 2010)

Hey BJ. I was just admiring your box joint pushblock used with the Oak Park jigs. I haven't seen this approach before and I thought it was a good idea. I try to avoid ordering stuff from out of the country because of high custom duties and handling charges here in Norway, not to mention transport/mailing costs. I thought those Oak Park slider jigs looked pretty easy to make, "look" being the key word here. What is your opinion on this?

Mike


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

Yes ,you can make your own easy,I made one for the 3/4" to 1" wide box joints it's a copy cat of the OP jig, I used one of the Poly.cutting boards for the stock..it's slick just like the OP jig..


http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--&product=SFP30578
======



Stefang said:


> Hey BJ. I was just admiring your box joint pushblock used with the Oak Park jigs. I haven't seen this approach before and I thought it was a good idea. I try to avoid ordering stuff from out of the country because of high custom duties and handling charges here in Norway, not to mention transport/mailing costs. I thought those Oak Park slider jigs looked pretty easy to make, "look" being the key word here. What is your opinion on this?
> 
> Mike


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## kfitch (Feb 14, 2010)

Thanks for sharing Bob.

Keith


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## kfitch (Feb 14, 2010)

Bob,
I noticed the router table that you are using. Who makes it or is it one you put together?

Keith


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Keith

I think you mean this one, one that I made (copy) and one got from Net 

Amazon.com: CMT 999.500.02 Industrio Router Table System with Precision Fence, Phenolic Insert, Cabinet, Zero Clearance Inserts, Centering Tool and Insert Plate with 2 Aluminum Rings: Home Improvement

========



kfitch said:


> Bob,
> I noticed the router table that you are using. Who makes it or is it one you put together?
> 
> Keith


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## nicbate (May 17, 2011)

Just wanted to say thanks for the good idea!


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## seahawk65 (Oct 9, 2012)

I love to see all the talented woodworkers and their great ideas. keep up all the great work and I am very humbled to be associated with such talented people. Thanks again for letting me be a member of the forum!!!


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