# Table inserts



## neslot (Jan 4, 2010)

How many of you make your own inserts?
I ordered a 3/8 inch piece of Plexiglas that was 12 by 18 and made 2 inserts, one for each router. The plexi cut well on my table saw and I used a hole saw and forstner bits for the mounting holes. My big router is 2.5 Hp small one is 1 Hp.

Now that I've done that, is there any hidden dangers here? Is it strong enough?

Thanks..
Tony


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## neslot (Jan 4, 2010)

I'd like to post pics, but need a few more messages before that.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

If it is level with the plate and does not fall through great , use it. I have made a variety in steel, brass, aluminium and lexan.


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## neslot (Jan 4, 2010)

OK, figuring out the picture thing.. Just can't post links yet... I think..

Cool, got it! :dance3:

T


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Hi Tony, Welcome to the Forums.
Nothing at all wrong with making your own plate. I prefer the aluminum ones, but I've used a phenolic for years. My only caution is that with the larger router, you may want to remove the router from the table when not in use. Over time it can bow/warp on you. Some have gotten around this issue by using a larger recess...on the order of an inch or so...to give the plate more support.


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## neslot (Jan 4, 2010)

Mike, I figure if I get a total failure, it will merely fall down into the enclosure and I can pull the plug..
thanks for the advice!

Tony


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Nice setup Neslot. You are lucky with your setup. My wife would not allow me to set my router lift in the floor like yours, even though there is enough headroom in the cellar.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hi Tony, 
3/8" thickness is ok but you don't want to many square inches. A 9" x 11" plate should be enough.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Is that a wood patterned laminate or did you use flooring material for your table top? I noticed the miter track has square ends, how did you make the cutout on the table top to have square ends? Did you use a chisel or what? 

I'm going to install miter tracks on a top and I didn't know if I was going to radius the aluminum track to match whatever router bit I use to make the dado or if there is an easy way to square up the wood top so that I don't have to grind the miter track to fit. (sorry if that's confusing)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tony

I use it all the time,it will support your router just fine and putting the Colt in is a good way to use it for the small jobs, not just for trim work.. 

I also have one installed in my router table.it's not the same way you have but it's a little bit diff. but I use it all the time.. 

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4883-small-router-table.html

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neslot said:


> How many of you make your own inserts?
> I ordered a 3/8 inch piece of Plexiglas that was 12 by 18 and made 2 inserts, one for each router. The plexi cut well on my table saw and I used a hole saw and forstner bits for the mounting holes. My big router is 2.5 Hp small one is 1 Hp.
> 
> Now that I've done that, is there any hidden dangers here? Is it strong enough?
> ...


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## neslot (Jan 4, 2010)

Mike, Good one! Just tell the wife if she wants new cabinets, she's going to have to sacrifice a bit too.. :blink:

I changed out that top with one made of plywood edged in poplar. It's not as wavy as the butcher block was.

Thanks to all on the size and the anti-sag tips not to leave the router in the table when not in use

Here are a few more pictures..

Tony


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## neslot (Jan 4, 2010)

Noob said:


> Is that a wood patterned laminate or did you use flooring material for your table top? I noticed the miter track has square ends, how did you make the cutout on the table top to have square ends? Did you use a chisel or what?
> 
> I'm going to install miter tracks on a top and I didn't know if I was going to radius the aluminum track to match whatever router bit I use to make the dado or if there is an easy way to square up the wood top so that I don't have to grind the miter track to fit. (sorry if that's confusing)


I used a pattern following bit ( picture in another post this thread ) in my colt then chiseled the corners square. The top was a butcher block scrap I had from the cabinets I made for my daughter. ( sink cut-out ) Since then, I built a new top laminating ply wood together to get 1.5 inches. I also put 'T' nuts in and put bolts through for levelers.


Tony


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## neslot (Jan 4, 2010)

It didn't take long to get to 10 posts, I'm usually not that 'wordy'.. Maybe a link will work now......

nope.... see next message....


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## neslot (Jan 4, 2010)

Hah! got it now.. 

Daughters Cabinets:

kitchen cabs - a set on Flickr


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

neslot said:


> Mike, Good one! Just tell the wife if she wants new cabinets, she's going to have to sacrifice a bit too.. :blink:
> 
> I changed out that top with one made of plywood edged in poplar. It's not as wavy as the butcher block was.
> 
> ...


Tony, I don't think you will have any sag issues based on the wide shoulder I see in this pic...that is exactly what I was referring to. Good job. The craftsmanship on the cabinet/base looks spot on too...nice work.


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## neslot (Jan 4, 2010)

Thanks Frank, I'm looking forward to using it more in the near future!! 

Tony


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Great work Tony and welcome to our village..
I see you use the BT3000 clone as well as other Ryobi tools....finally meet a kindred spirit..

George Cole
"Regulae Stultis Sunt"


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Tony... avoiding sag over time is one of the main reasons why many recommend making the RT top out of 3 sheets of 3/4" MDF laminated together. My 3/8" plate sets in a 1/2" lip with 1-1/4" of MDF under it and the top reasonably supported. My PC 7518 "tank" has been in the lift continuously for the last 6 months and my precision straightedge shows zero sag. 

I made the top that thick to avoid just such issues. Your mileage may vary.


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## rain (Dec 29, 2009)

Hi, Tony.

Had a look at all of your cabinet pictures. What an achievement, especially when your facilities are so cramped. Proof, I guess, that when there is a motivated desire to accomplish something great, a means will be found.

My wife and I are mid-constuction with a similar project. Our cabinets are being built in place, there is no removal possible without the help of an explosives expert. Interestingly, because many women are seriously adverse to seams in a countertop, we chose to herringbone our rock maple surface at the direction changes. It meant making our own tongues/grooves of course, and I was pleased at how well most of it went. Also, because we did not want spilt liquids to run down the faceframe or drawers, we made maple trim with a no-drip edge bit, and then fastened it to the edge. The subframe for the top is pocket-holed spuce, 3/4 thick, then maple plywood, 3/4 thick, then tongue and groove maple, again 3/4 thick. Overkill? Well, yeah, but I did say explosives were the only removal tool appropriate.

I salute your skill and efforts, it is no mystery how much time, energy, and frustratingly slow steps were involved.


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## neslot (Jan 4, 2010)

George II said:


> Great work Tony and welcome to our village..
> I see you use the BT3000 clone as well as other Ryobi tools....finally meet a kindred spirit..
> 
> George Cole
> "Regulae Stultis Sunt"


Thanks George! The Ryobi clone is a sears, it was on sale for 300$ so had to get it. I was replacing an old craftsman that I had for years but it got flooded in Hurricane Ike. I made an out feed table for it and a zero clearance throat plate with my router. It has a side table that will hold a router, but is only about 12 inches wide. Not much real-estate to work with. I have a bunch of other Ryobi stuff that seems to be holding up pretty well so far.
Later..


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## neslot (Jan 4, 2010)

rain,

When I was building those, I was using my 2 stall garage. I worked in one side and assembled in the other. worked pretty well. the counter tops are from Ikea, about 8$ per linear foot. I glued and pocket screwed the pieces together. My concern is that I have some end grain butted up to length grain and expansion may crack those joints.
You are right, there is a lot of little picky details involved. Then end result makes it all worth it though.


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## Frank Lee (Nov 29, 2008)

Tony--- Nice clean installation, should do fine. ---Frank Lee, Kingman Az.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

George II said:


> Great work Tony and welcome to our village..
> I see you use the BT3000 clone as well as other Ryobi tools....finally meet a kindred spirit..
> 
> George Cole
> "Regulae Stultis Sunt"


I'm another one (BT3100), and you couldn't find a better saw for $300 back then. They are discontinued now, but Sears still carries knock-off variants. BT3100 LINK


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

neslot said:


> Thanks George! The Ryobi clone is a sears, it was on sale for 300$ so had to get it. I was replacing an old craftsman that I had for years but it got flooded in Hurricane Ike. I made an out feed table for it and a zero clearance throat plate with my router. It has a side table that will hold a router, but is only about 12 inches wide. Not much real-estate to work with. I have a bunch of other Ryobi stuff that seems to be holding up pretty well so far.
> Later..


I like that out feed table, I use a roller stand but an out feed table would be much better.


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