# Add router table with dust collector to your table saw



## pbriggs8 (May 17, 2016)

Recently I modified my portable table saw to replace the right extension table with a hinged router table. The hinged table design allows easy access to change router bits and adjust bit depth. The router section is also enclosed to provide dust collection and to reduce router noise.

I wrote an Instructable that provides the specifics concerning how I modified my portable Delta contractor table saw. Since table saws vary in construction details, the construction approach will need to be adjusted as necessary for other table saws.

See instructables.com for Add a router table with dust collector to your table saw

My inspiration for this tool came from Tom Clark's "Practical Shop Cabinets" (pages 36-41). He describes how to build a hinged top stand-alone router table with dust collection. I modified Tom's design for my table saw.

Tom had several design requirements for his table, including:

1) Smooth lid

2) Hinged top to enable easy access for router bit replacement & adjustment

3) Built-in dust collector

To which I added the following requirements:

4) the router table had to fit as an extension table to my table saw

5) easy removal of the router for other uses if needed

I have just put the router table into service and it appears to meet all of the above requirements. 

Note: I had to modify the dust collection method so that the suction comes from the bottom in order for this to work with my shop vac.

If I were to do this again, I would use a formica top with a hardwood base (vs countertop with a particle board base) to minimize any flexing/bowing of the top.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

nicely done Paul...
but I have one question...
when you clamp the top to the fence doesn't that wrack the fence...

and welcome to the forums Paul...


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## pbriggs8 (May 17, 2016)

The clamp only requires light pressure to hold the top up to change bits or adjust the depth. I haven't noticed any deformation of the fence. But I could use a softer clamping device ... it would be easy to make a fixed width wooden clamp.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well that's much more impressive than what I conjured up for my TS . Nice work


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Thanks for the ideas Paul. It will save me three square feet of precious space. I'll probably fix the fence where it clamps to the TS fence


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Nicely done, Paul, and welcome aboard! How is the heat build-up inside the box, or have you run it long enough to know?


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Welcome to the forum, Paul. Nicely done on the the router set up.


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## pbriggs8 (May 17, 2016)

Difaulkner - So far I've only used the router for a few minutes at a time, with no noticeable heat build up. It's hard to see from the pics, but I've got a second small opening at the front bottom of the box that also provides some air flow at the base of the router. This design is very similar to Tom Clark's design, and he's experienced no heat buildup problems over years of heavy use.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

This looks very clever and efficient. Thanks for sharing it with us, and Welcome to our little group!

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Wow, nice execution. Looking at the design, you might consider adding a small rod to hold the lid up instead of the clamp. Something like the rod that holds up a car hood. You could hinge it or just have it set in a shallow groove under the top with a small, shallow hole under the top to set the rod in to hold the top up, No pressure on the fence that way and out of the way otherwise.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Nice space saving design Paul. I am not a fan of incorporating a router table into a table saw; in the middle of a project having to pull down your set up to perform a job with the other tool would make me crazy.


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## pbriggs8 (May 17, 2016)

DesertRatTom - The hinged rod design that you suggest is exactly what Tom Clark used in his router table, but he had another inch or so depth under the lid.  My lid only has about 3/8" of an inch or so clearance and I didn't see any easy way to do that. I'll have to give it a bit more thought. The fence does seem to be very sturdy and it does not appear that clamping the top to it is affecting anything, but it would be good not to stress it if I don't have to. Thanks for the suggestion.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

lid torsion hinges...
Toy Box Lid Stay Torsion Hinge | HardwareSource.com

lid supports...
Toy Box Lid Supports | HardwareSource.com

externally mounted stays...
Soft Down Support - Trunk Supports - Toy Box Hardware


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## pbriggs8 (May 17, 2016)

Mike - Like you, my preference is to have a standalone router table, but I don't have enough room for one in my shop. I have found though, that now that I have a router table, I am tending to use it a lot, esp. to round the edges of work pieces that I wouldn't have done before. Also, this setup does extend the right side of my table saw another few inches, and I like that. And with this particular router, it is very easy to completely retract the bit should I need access to more of the right side of the table saw.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bosch routers? Never heard of 'em. :jester:

You may want to try a type 4 Musclechuck on yours.


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## pbriggs8 (May 17, 2016)

Mike - That's quite the impressive selection of Bosch routers! You must do a lot of routing. And I see that you've got the Type 4 Musclechuck on several of them. I am looking forward to learning more about routing. Do you have any other pics of jigs that you use for your router table handy that you can share?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

pbriggs8 said:


> Mike - That's quite the impressive selection of Bosch routers!


Mike has the second biggest collection of Bosch routers on the planet


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