# For Harry, Tom, Bobj and others...



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

OK, don't laugh at my little attempt at a jig holder  This is as far as I got, it's a B out there in the shop today. Plus I realized I have no MDF for templates as I was going to cut some blank templates to fit the holder. 

I made mine 12 x 14 inside dimensions. It fits better in the storage of my router cabinet and this one will be for making box lids primarily. I took Harry's advise and am keeping this one simple and will just pin the lids in place for routing and make the templates the size of the frame. If I use this one I will make a nice version with inserts or Tnuts etc. I added a cleat to the bottom so I can hold this in my Workmate jaws. I may also add a cleat in the bottom and take a cue from Bobj and make it so I can drop it in the router table top. 

Also what do you use for most of your templates... 1/4 or 1/2 inch mdf or their metric counterparts  Thanks Harry and Bobj for answering my questions. So what do you think? 

Templates are going to be my problem. Round and ovals etc. should be no problem but I don't understand the process in getting those nice square templates without running into rounded edges. Anyway I always make this stuff more difficult. 

Thanks,
Corey


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

I think we are going to have to start calling you "Template Corey".  

Nice job buddy and I plan on joining the ranks soon as well.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

That should work great Bud... 
You did a nice job /////

" I don't understand the process in getting those nice square templates without running into rounded edges" 
No big deal , you will see Tom and Harry clip off the corners on the templates anyway on the OD of the templates,,,so they can pull them out easy and quick, the space blocks and the pattern inside the templates again no big deal just use the table saw to make the spacer blocks and because the guides ride in the inside of the template it will be true...

Keep the snapshots coming bud 
Did you make the skis yet 
Again not big deal for most of the template work but they do help support the router and help keep it flat and true to the template, I like the skis for putting in slots,that's always a hard job on small parts and jigs...and you know I like to make jigs alot...and put slots in them....for adjustments..
I did need to rework the set I made for the handles on the router I used.
so you may want to check yours all so...it only comes into play when you move the skis in all the way...plus the lock down part for the plunger of the router..the base plate I'm using will take on the Big Oak Park brass guides and the offset rings up to 100mm...



Bj 




challagan said:


> OK, don't laugh at my little attempt at a jig holder  This is as far as I got, it's a B out there in the shop today. Plus I realized I have no MDF for templates as I was going to cut some blank templates to fit the holder.
> 
> I made mine 12 x 14 inside dimensions. It fits better in the storage of my router cabinet and this one will be for making box lids primarily. I took Harry's advise and am keeping this one simple and will just pin the lids in place for routing and make the templates the size of the frame. If I use this one I will make a nice version with inserts or Tnuts etc. I added a cleat to the bottom so I can hold this in my Workmate jaws. I may also add a cleat in the bottom and take a cue from Bobj and make it so I can drop it in the router table top.
> 
> ...


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Bob. No skis yet... don't know how soon I will be able to get to that. On the template... I was actually referring to the template or pattern itself, like the one used to make Harry's carved pattern on the lid question that he recently posted. I guess I just don't understand that whole process in getting a nice square template to use in the holder. I can't use a scroll saw to saw out the pattern anymore since I sold it and I couldn't get it perfectly square anyway that way. Seems like a ton of filing and it still wouldn't be square. Like I said before, I am probably making it too difficult but.. that's me! I have several plastic templates.. such as a oval, diamond and a star. I think I can just center those on the mdf and make one easy and in different sizes using different guides that fit into the holder real nice. But the square ones get me  

Corey

Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

*More Uses For Tom's Jig Holder....*

I am kind of jazzed now. I had mentioned to Bobj last night that I wondered if the jig holder could possibly work with the Milescraft Spirocrafter inlay and design tool. I forgot about it and made the jig holder this morning. While looking at my other commercial plastic templates I got the spirocrafter out. I was jazzed to find that what I made nearly fits the base perfectly. I just have to shave down some stock to hold it on all sides and pin it in centered. When using it then I will pin in the stock and put the jig in place like it was a mdf template and pin it in and it's ready to go. 

For Harry or anyone not familiar with this tool you can do carvings using various portions of the templates included and there are 100's of combinations that you can use to make the designs in the instructions or your own. I am posting a shot of the jig the way it is supposed to be used and then some of the things you can do on it. 

Anyway, kind of jazzed that this will work in the holder as now I can use this, my plastic ones and the ones I will be making. I know Tom isn't a fan of commercial jigs but I am glad I can incorporate this into the holder and I think it will be easier to use this way! 

Corey

The first 2 photos are of the Spirocrafter in my jig. The 3rd photo is how the jig is used normally.. taped or clamped down. The rest of the photos are carvings created with the jig and they were not made by me.

For Bob, do you know if the new Sears plunge router will work with the Milescraft baseplate. I would like to get a plunge router to dedicate to that jig and can't be the price of that one. $70.00 for the plunger or 109. for the combo!


----------



## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Hi Corey,

the square templates are the easy ones to make...doing it Tom and Harry's way you just use your table saw...same thing for the spacer blocks.  

Tom gives details in the "Intro to template guides" file that he posted:

Intro to Template Guides 


and Harry actual posted pictures of how he made the square template for his clock:

Harry's template 





challagan said:


> Thanks Bob. No skis yet... don't know how soon I will be able to get to that. On the template... I was actually referring to the template or pattern itself, like the one used to make Harry's carved pattern on the lid question that he recently posted. I guess I just don't understand that whole process in getting a nice square template to use in the holder. I can't use a scroll saw to saw out the pattern anymore since I sold it and I couldn't get it perfectly square anyway that way. Seems like a ton of filing and it still wouldn't be square. Like I said before, I am probably making it too difficult but.. that's me! I have several plastic templates.. such as a oval, diamond and a star. I think I can just center those on the mdf and make one easy and in different sizes using different guides that fit into the holder real nice. But the square ones get me
> 
> Corey
> 
> Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Greg, thanks for that. Now I am not fretting and stressing. Dont know how I missed that. Thanks bud!

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey that's cool Corey

Now I need to go out to the shop and try the one I have 

Craftsman router = Yes, but go for the combo...you may not need it right off but once you have it you have it... 

The one Harry posted is a easy one, take one more look it and I 'm sure you will see it right off... look at the last part he posted with the part sizes in the picture.

NOTE**** Corey
Think Bob R. and how he makes templates ,,4 sticks some small nails drill a hole, drop in on the router table top and make a template quick and easy on the router table..with the trim router bit..great job for the little router table with the Colt... 

Bj 




challagan said:


> I am kind of jazzed now. I had mentioned to Bobj last night that I wondered if the jig holder could possibly work with the Milescraft Spirocrafter inlay and design tool. I forgot about it and made the jig holder this morning. While looking at my other commercial plastic templates I got the spirocrafter out. I was jazzed to find that what I made nearly fits the base perfectly. I just have to shave down some stock to hold it on all sides and pin it in centered.
> 
> For Harry or anyone not familiar with this tool you can do carvings using various portions of the templates included and there are 100's of combinations that you can use to make the designs in the instructions or your own. I am posting a shot of the jig the way it is supposed to be used and then some of the things you can do on it.
> 
> ...


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Bj, I think it will work well and it was jut blind butt luck that it nearly fits perfect as it was an after thought. I may just take it apart before I make any regular templates and just size it down to fit it perfectly without shims. 

On the templates I see now in Greg's post that Tom makes these buy gluing them up. I never noticed that before. However, in the Question from Harrysin post.... Harry's template does not appear to be pieced together. It looks like it was pattern routed in? 

Bob, I have some plastic templates that I want to use to make smaller versions of them using different guide sizes. These will be in MDF and will fit the full size of the jig holder. Should I use a 1/4 spiral downcut bit for this with many passes until cut all the way through? Going to have to get used to MDF... it isn't my favorite material  So damned dusty! 

Yes, I think the combo is the way to go if I can swing it but I am trying to save for a bandsaw as well but might be able to fit it in. 

Thanks 
Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

I know what you mean about the MDF but it's not to bad when you use 1/4" thick, but do you have a Rockler near by, if so some 1/4" brich plywood works great...the last time I ask for it at HD the guy said WHAT....brich what ,,,they don't make plywood out of brich,,,so to say I don't know if they have it on hand or not..

I almost always use the trim bit to make the templates sometime the brass guides if I have a base pattern...

BJ


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Menards has some nice 1/4 mdf covered with birch or oak veneer. That should work pretty well actually and they have birch plywood in 2 x 2 ft and 2 x 4 ft squares. If I use a guide and have a pattern what bit would you use the 1/4 inch spiral downcut then?

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bud
you got it,,,1/4 inch spiral downcut or 3/8",,, ,,, I have a way of braking 1/4" LOL LOL hahahaha...

Bj 





challagan said:


> Menards has some nice 1/4 mdf covered with birch or oak veneer. That should work pretty well actually and they have birch plywood in 2 x 2 ft and 2 x 4 ft squares. If I use a guide and have a pattern what bit would you use the 1/4 inch spiral downcut then?
> 
> Corey


----------



## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

My templates are made from 12mm or 9mm MDF or PLYWOOD. As sugested in my article "Introduction to the use of template guides" I make them up in parts glueing them together as Greg said. If I wish to have a more permanent template I make a template from the original using the trimming cutter. This usually will last longer if you have a number of articles to make. If the template is made from 9mm material I usually laminate both sides for strength and durability.
Another material I have used is Hexcore but this is *very very* expensive I had a few sheets left over from my cabinet making days when I was refurbishing executive aircraft.
Tom


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

template tom said:


> My templates are made from 12mm or 9mm MDF or PLYWOOD. As sugested in my article "Introduction to the use of template guides" I make them up in parts glueing them together as Greg said. If I wish to have a more permanent template I make a template from the original using the trimming cutter. This usually will last longer if you have a number of articles to make. If the template is made from 9mm material I usually laminate both sides for strength and durability.
> Another material I have used is Hexcore but this is *very very* expensive I had a few sheets left over from my cabinet making days when I was refurbishing executive aircraft.
> Tom


Thanks Tom, I got it now. Appreciate the info. So what did you think of my jig holder? I know it isn't exactly to plan but I think it will work. 

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

I like it, and the Spirocrafter turnlock is going to be a great item to go with it,,, 

I when out and took a hard look at mind and it's going to work just like yours .some times things work out just right.. thanks bud...

But I still have the cams holding the Spirocrafter in place and the blank without any side boards...should work ok....I will post some snapshots when I get it all done...

Bj


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Sweet! Glad it worked out for you as well and the cams will hold it in place. Even if i make another one this one I will keep just for the Spirocrafter. Much better way to use that jig than taping or clamping it down. You can't do the inlays with it as the inlay inself needs to be centered over the piece and it won't work that way but great for the carvings I think. Looking forward to the pics! 

Corey


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

URGENT...URGENT...URGENT
IMPORTANT NOTICE

Horror of horrors, I just took a peep at my post which showed how to make the template and can see a glaring error, I stuffed up on the formula for calculating the opening size, I obviously know it because all my projects work out, I must have been having one of those SENIORS MOMENTS
The correct formula is; dia. of template guide minus dia. of cutter plus size of finished item, so,

if we want a 3" hole for a clock fit-up and intend to use a 1.5" guide and a 1/4" cutter, then: 1.5 - 1/4 + 3 = 4 1/4", it's that simple, but remember that I chose easy figures, metric can be calculated in the head or on fingers and toes!

Do please forgive me for misleading you, I seem to remember Tom chiding me over this some time ago and I bet that some of you out there spotted the error but were too polite to bring it to my attention.


----------



## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

challagan said:


> Thanks Tom, I got it now. Appreciate the info. So what did you think of my jig holder? I know it isn't exactly to plan but I think it will work.
> 
> Corey


You are on the right track with your Jig Hoder I have numerous sizes of Jig Holders to suit what I am making at the time.
Small for the cabinet handles I make to a very large holder for the back leg of my dining room chairs I am making at the moment(When I get back home)
I should also tell you that I have developed another Jig holder which I found easier for my blind clients to use and understand. I will not submit at the moment as the one you have constructed works very well
Tom


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Tom, I am looking forward to using it! 

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Here's some snapshots of the Spirocrafter setup board, it's now ready to go to work ... thanks for the tip Bud...

Bj 

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2815-jig-milescraft-turnlock.html


=======


challagan said:


> Sweet! Glad it worked out for you as well and the cams will hold it in place. Even if i make another one this one I will keep just for the Spirocrafter. Much better way to use that jig than taping or clamping it down. You can't do the inlays with it as the inlay inself needs to be centered over the piece and it won't work that way but great for the carvings I think. Looking forward to the pics!
> 
> Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Fantastic Bob! I see you made a new one for it and you can cam it on the other one as well. Nice! I never thought about the skis with this. Bob didn't realize that Milescraft has so many different bushings. What is the largest they make for use with the 7 inch router plate? Just noticed after looking again at the 4 corners... are those levelling bolts ? Thanks for all the photos! 

Corey

Bob thanks for all the additional photos. What kind of bit did you use to do the regular carving and what did you hog out the interior with and what guide did you use with it when you did that. Nice!!


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Bj,

Thanks for all those pic on the Milecrafter and I really like what I see with the template holder and skis. It is starting to make sense to me now where I was a little confused before (nothing new  )

I have not even pulled my milescrafter from the box yet, but it is on my short list after I finish a few other things I am in the middle of first. I do have one question and I'm sure it is a dumb one, but I'll ask anyhow. When using a template, would it be true that the larger the guide used with that template, the smaller the image when finished?


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Hi Bob. No stupid question... remember! Your question: When using a template, would it be true that the larger the guide used with that template, the smaller the image when finished?

Answer: yes. and it can be altered as well by the cutter chosen. Little core box .. lettering bits etc. work with this. The set comes with a little v bit lettering bit and a 1/8 inlay bit. I also have a set of small core box and othe v bits that would work well too. I think I got them from Eagle America some time ago for sign making. 

The Milescraft set up using a special 7 inch base that accepts only their plastic/resin template guides. That's what I want the new Craftsman plunger for to mount that base so I don't have to keep switching around bases. 3 different guides come with the set and the instructions advise what template guide to use with each design, what portion of the template window get's used if not all and the sequence to which you must turn it. You can use it with other brass guides and many new do... just might change the profile a bit. At first I hated the milescraft guides but I have warmed up to them after studying the system and Bob j has used it a lot. One tip he passed on to me was to make a tool for removing the bushings as they can be a paint to unlock out. I simply take 2 shaker pegs and insert into the holes and twist and they pop out.. same principal as Bob's handy dandy tool if I wasn't so lazy  Most of the finished designs in the booklet finish out between 2 inches around to 3 1/2 inches... something like that. Hope this helps. It's one of those things when you have some scrap crap and feel like playing and don't care if you screw something up to figure it out. 

Corey

P.S. see Bob J's additional photos he has loaded! Sweet!

Also see these links:
http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/spirocrafter.htm
http://benchmark.20m.com/reviews/Spirocrafter/sprirocrafterreview.html


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

They make many types(templates) ..Skis, work great the take the work out of it, just push it around ,,, 7 " plate I think,,,,bolts=yep , I put on a 1/4" hardboard for the support of the 2 part templates frame ,,,bolts are just below the black part of the holder..

I did add a snapshot or two with the guides and the base plate and a quick show and tell on a test board...

The jig base is the 1st, one I took a picture just a bit of rework and it was set to ,it's my picture frame jig when I glue up pictures frame and now it can do 3 jobs. 

Bj 




challagan said:


> Fantastic Bob! I see you made a new one for it and you can cam it on the other one as well. Nice! I never thought about the skis with this. Bob didn't realize that Milescraft has so many different bushings. What is the largest they make for use with the 7 inch router plate? Just noticed after looking again at the 4 corners... are those levelling bolts ? Thanks for all the photos!
> 
> Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Corey
> 
> They make many types(templates) ..Skis, work great the take the work out of it, just push it around ,,, 7 " plate I think,,,,bolts=yep , I put on a 1/4" hardboard for the support of the 2 part templates frame ,,,bolts are just below the black part of the holder..
> 
> ...


Bob thanks for all the additional photos. What kind of bit did you use to do the regular carving and what did you hog out the interior with and what guide did you use with it when you did that. Nice!!! Oh how big was that design roughly around when done? 

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Corey

1/8" carb. bit to do it all and a 5/8" brass guide...it about 5" in dia.

Bj 




challagan said:


> Bob thanks for all the additional photos. What kind of bit did you use to do the regular carving and what did you hog out the interior with and what guide did you use with it when you did that. Nice!!! Oh how big was that design roughly around when done?
> 
> Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

Harry and Tom where right the skis make it easy..

when you use the turn lock system they come with a how to for each pattern you want to make,, by the number thing,,,, template #1, A #1, C=all, bushing=& 17 mm and so on, easy ones to do...the 1st one you do you will say this is easy and it is...

Bj 




Bob N said:


> Bj,
> 
> Thanks for all those pic on the Milecrafter and I really like what I see with the template holder and skis. It is starting to make sense to me now where I was a little confused before (nothing new  )
> 
> I have not even pulled my milescrafter from the box yet, but it is on my short list after I finish a few other things I am in the middle of first. I do have one question and I'm sure it is a dumb one, but I'll ask anyhow. When using a template, would it be true that the larger the guide used with that template, the smaller the image when finished?


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Bob, that is one of the larger template patterns. There are many that are smaller. A 1/8 carbide straight cutter? and you hogged all that out with that? Very clean Bob! One pass? Did you smoke it  Sorry for all the questions. I am glad you posted that. After studying mine further... I think you can do an inlay as well with it in the pattern holder... but it needs to be a small one as you have to center the stock at the top and put the inlay patter at the A position. A larger base with cams you could probably inlay anything. 

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

1/8" carbide, no big deal on hoging out with the 1/8" bit ,it takes a pass or two, I had it set for 1/8" deep max and did it 1/2 ea.pass.

Did it smoke,, nope , and you know that MDF stuff...inlay stuff is easy with the 1/8" Bit and the two guides 17mm and 24mm ..

I have done the bow tie one and it works great..

With the offset rings/or guides you can make just about any size you want...

Bj 




challagan said:


> Thanks Bob, that is one of the larger template patterns. There are many that are smaller. A 1/8 carbide straight cutter? and you hogged all that out with that? Very clean Bob! One pass? Did you smoke it  Sorry for all the questions. I am glad you posted that. After studying mine further... I think you can do an inlay as well with it in the pattern holder... but it needs to be a small one as you have to center the stock at the top and put the inlay patter at the A position. A larger base with cams you could probably inlay anything.
> 
> Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Bj. I see that they have the 2 bushings that come with this kit... the 17mm and the 24mm and a 8 piece set that goes from 5/16 all the way up to 1 inch. Might have to pick those up! 

Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Corey
> 
> 1/8" carbide, no big deal on hoging out with the 1/8" bit ,it takes a pass or two, I had it set for 1/8" deep max and did it 1/2 ea.pass.
> 
> ...


Here is a couple bits that I have had for a while that should work well for some of the type work Harry does like the box lid question and work well for the Spirocrafter as well. Bob, are the lettering bits like I show usually solid carbide. Doesn't say on the package. Also added a mug shot that my son took today while being a smart A  

Corey


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Great help guys and it is starting to soak in. Thanks for the replies and additional information. I can't wait to try this template and inlay stuff, looks like it will open a whole new world for me.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

"Doesn't say on the package" = ????
" my son took today while being a smart A" = I have one like that also 
I see he is playing with the weegie board  


see shot below

Bj 



challagan said:


> Here is a couple bits that I have had for a while that should work well for some of the type work Harry does like the box lid question and work well for the Spirocrafter as well. Bob, are the lettering bits like I show usually solid carbide. Doesn't say on the package. Also added a mug shot that my son took today while being a smart A
> 
> Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bob, I know the three are solid carb like they say... that's just it, the lettering bit doesn't say so I wondered if that meant HSS? I can't read what your red lettering says on the letter bit package  

Thanks!
Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Most bits that are for sign making are solid carb. if they are 1/4" or less.
but the only way to make sure is to run the part number down 

You can do a grind test (sparks that come off at the grind) but that would nail the bit or say put a mark on it..

EA bit ▼ #132-9002
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product...0+Double+Ended+Lettering+Bit&bhcd2=1186373982

Simple, convenient and economical! You'll find this one to be among your most favorite. 
Now you can get both 60° and 90° with one bit. 
Great for production work. Ideal for making signs and wood threadings.

Two flute, solid carbide. USA.


Bj 




challagan said:


> Bob, I know the three are solid carb like they say... that's just it, the lettering bit doesn't say so I wondered if that meant HSS? I can't read what your red lettering says on the letter bit package
> 
> Thanks!
> Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Bj, tried EA site and they don't list that code anymore... it's probably at least 10 years old but never used. I will just try it out sometime and if it's toast after a few minutes work it's HSS  

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

Hit the link I posted same part number 


Bj 




challagan said:


> Thanks Bj, tried EA site and they don't list that code anymore... it's probably at least 10 years old but never used. I will just try it out sometime and if it's toast after a few minutes work it's HSS
> 
> Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

LOL... I can get it to work now as well. I think I used # with it before and it didn't come up. Thanks BJ! 

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome Bud 

Bj 




challagan said:


> LOL... I can get it to work now as well. I think I used # with it before and it didn't come up. Thanks BJ!
> 
> Corey


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

There's so much in those posts so I shall only mention a couple. The way Bj has progressed so quickly, I'm not sure if even Tom will have much more to teach. Corey, you handsome young thing, it looks like you're template is sitting below the edges of the box, don't forget that it must be slightly higher so that the router isn't restricted, packing under the jig or work-piece is the way to go, similarly, if the work-piece is taller than the box, add side pieces as Bj has done. Keep up the good work, I'm eagerly awaiting you're first project from this set-up Corey.


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

harrysin said:


> There's so much in those posts so I shall only mention a couple. The way Bj has progressed so quickly, I'm not sure if even Tom will have much more to teach. Corey, you handsome young thing, it looks like you're template is sitting below the edges of the box, don't forget that it must be slightly higher so that the router isn't restricted, packing under the jig or work-piece is the way to go, similarly, if the work-piece is taller than the box, add side pieces as Bj has done. Keep up the good work, I'm eagerly awaiting you're first project from this set-up Corey.


HI Harry, it definitely will work ... I just fit it to the whole thing but it will be easy enough to pin the stock in it and then get the thing up above the rails like you said. Thanks HArry!

Corey


----------



## cnse55 (Jul 25, 2006)

looks great


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Here's some more snapshots  just for kicks,,still in a hold pattern waiting for the hardware to show up, but I did play with the jig today and made one template...

Bj 

This template is for the item below posted by Harry 
http://www.routerforums.com/50233-post1.html
========


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Bj. I see now. 1/4 mdf and one pass with a pattern 1/4 bit? Is the painters tape to help with tear out... ruffled edges etc.? Thanks for posting this!

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

The tape is so I can eye ball the template up but it will help with the rip out also.
Lets say I want the slot 1/2" from the edges ,all need to do is lock the blank down in place and then just move the template around in place and then lock it in place..
In that way I don't need to play around with the blank trying to get it in just the right spot.. 
The template can just be moved around and I can put it in the just right spot....I could used a pencil but this lid that's in the snapshot is done so to speak but it's going to get the Harrys pattern put in it.. 

I's going to use the Small cove bit that comes with the TurnLock systems, it's a neat bit and I don't have one like it in my stock of router bits..it's made for the letter kit and comes with it from MilesCraft..

I used a 1/2" trim bit to cut out the template, it's quicker than normal 1/4" bit plus I'm going to use the 3/4" brass guide and it should work fine in the corners...radius thing...


Bj 


========




challagan said:


> Thanks Bj. I see now. 1/4 mdf and one pass with a pattern 1/4 bit? Is the painters tape to help with tear out... ruffled edges etc.? Thanks for posting this!
> 
> Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I got yah BJ. Have to check out that bit. Is it a cove bit or Roundnose/Corebox bit? Size? 
Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

The one I got with mind was a 1/4" diameter Core Box carbide bit

http://www.milescraft.com/router/1212SP.html


Bj 

=====



challagan said:


> I got yah BJ. Have to check out that bit. Is it a cove bit or Roundnose/Corebox bit? Size?
> Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Corey
> 
> The one I got with mind was a 1/4" diameter Core Box carbide bit
> 
> ...


Thanks Bj, have one of those from Eagle America it's in the pic I posted yesterday. It's the upper right hand bit. I read somewhere this weekend.. maybe on the Milescraft site that they recommend EA for replacement bits. 

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bud


Looks more like this one,,, ▼ but I'm sure the one you have will work just fine 

Core Box Bits #6415
2 flute, carbide tipped. Will plunge cut. For fluting, reeding, and carving.
Cuts a shallow profile.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_core.html

Bj


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bj, didn't know if you knew it or not but there is a pdf at the Milescraft site with other designs than are in the instruction booklet. You probably know it already but just in case you didn't, Here is the link:

http://milescraft.com/instruction/1204operational.pdf

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Thanks,,,  you know me need input,input that's one of the 1st. thing I did when I order them , and I did print them out, I was looking at them the other day and I was wishing they had more plastic templates to snap in the jig then I said maybe I can make some like COREY was going to do about 90 days ago.

Do you recall that ? and if so did you ? 

Now that you and I have it down how to make a template and have the jig to do that maybe we should..  like the one that Harry and Tom posted just for kicks that would get Harry going   LOL I'm not sure if Tom would like it but I think Harry would get a kick out of it   seeing it in pastic snap-in..
The 1st. one he posted with the two spacer blocks would be a easy one I think... 


LOL LOL 


http://www.routerforums.com/email-router-tips-members-only/4348-guide-bushing-chart.html#post41247


Bj 







challagan said:


> Bj, didn't know if you knew it or not but there is a pdf at the Milescraft site with other designs than are in the instruction booklet. You probably know it already but just in case you didn't, Here is the link:
> 
> http://milescraft.com/instruction/1204operational.pdf
> 
> Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I figured you had it already  No Bj I don't recall that on making more for that jig, I think I was talking about more like the plastic square ones I got, but more snap ins that would be cool for sure. I think you got me buy a mile on making templates bud, I am still scratching my head on some of this but man I was blown away on the one Harry posted today. That is COOL!! I am not sure making one to fit the circle etc. on the spirocrafter is worth the trouble.. maybe. I think it might be just easier to make it the way Tom and Harry does. I wish I could find some neat carving templates like that expensive Jessum system.. I think Harry has one. Harry will kill me for talking about buying a template  
I am going to give a couple box tops a go this weekend I think... one spiro design and maybe a small inlay using my plastic oval or diamond template using the jig holder for both.

corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

I may have said this b/4 but the 1/8" bit for the carvewright machine setup is a GREAT 1/8" bit and puts all other 1/8" bits I have used to shame...

Great for Inlay work  


It will hog like no other and it's Sharp  take a hard look at the tip on the bit, and will go down in the stock 1" deep...it's not cheap but it's worth the money..

I did post a drawing of the red plastic insert for the jig...just needs a key(s) on the out side of the ring to hold it in place and so it can be turned around in the jig and over the blank box lid...  maybe use one the Mfg. ones to put in the keys by pushing it in to a trim bit...or one like it,,

http://www.carvewright.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=77


Bj 



challagan said:


> I figured you had it already  No Bj I don't recall that on making more for that jig, I think I was talking about more like the plastic square ones I got, but more snap ins that would be cool for sure. I think you got me buy a mile on making templates bud, I am still scratching my head on some of this but man I was blown away on the one Harry posted today. That is COOL!! I am not sure making one to fit the circle etc. on the spirocrafter is worth the trouble.. maybe. I think it might be just easier to make it the way Tom and Harry does. I wish I could find some neat carving templates like that expensive Jessum system.. I think Harry has one. Harry will kill me for talking about buying a template
> I am going to give a couple box tops a go this weekend I think... one spiro design and maybe a small inlay using my plastic oval or diamond template using the jig holder for both.
> 
> corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Oh, I got yah now on the red plastic. That's pretty cool. I expect that any of the Carvewrite plunge bits like that would be good ones. I will have to keep that 1/8 bit in mind. That ogee plunge bit would look good on a profile like Harry posted today don't you think? 

Corey


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Home made, shop bought, it doesn't matter at THIS early stage, the important thing is to become as familiar with plunge routing as you are on the table, once you are, I'll guarantee that you will be into making you're own templates and really will be "getting more from you're router" (Tom's slogan)
I must emphasise that plunge routing is only one of the ways to use the router, but one that has been neglected over the years so there is catching-up to do!


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I think you are right Harry. I am much more comfortable with the router table vs. the plunge router. Got to get some time on it! Bj, is a plunging machine but not me  

corey


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

challagan said:


> I think you are right Harry. I am much more comfortable with the router table vs. the plunge router. Got to get some time on it! Bj, is a plunging machine but not me
> 
> corey



Corey, you forgot add the word YET at the end of you're sentence! It"s only a matter of time, or as my brother in law would say, "believe me, I use to sell used cars!"


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a update,,, well I got all the hardware I needed today and gave the jig a try out (the one that TOM and Harry have posted) you know the great jig with the skis to help support the router and template way of using the plunge router , they posted for all of us 

I was amaze how easy it is to do, this hard job, it takes a bit of work to make the jig and the jig holder but I enjoy making jigs, but once you have that done with your off to have great time with this new way of using your router, I can't say how much I am sold on this jig and template way of using the plunge router...and I think you will be too once you give it a try.. 

See some snapshots below,,, I got the Acme Rod today and I still want to use it but you don't need this over kill like I do..  you will see the rod in one of the snapshots below note the threads are flat so to speak, the rods are 3/8-12 x 3ft HT steel...
with Hvy. nuts to go on them...the norm is 3/8-16 or 3/8-24 for thread size..




Bj


----------



## steveo (Sep 10, 2004)

Suggestion to those posting pictures with their how-to's, tips, and various hints. Since it seems easy to insert dimensions, comments, etc. into the photos, it would be VERY helpful to put a sequence number in a corner of the posted photos. It seems like pot luck where the first and last inserted photo ends up in the block of photo insertions. From time to time its harder than playing a game to figure out the intent of the poster as to which photo should preceed another etc. I have often given up, and said S____ it and moved onto another topic hoping its better organized than the last.


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Just a update,,, well I got all the hardware I needed today and gave the jig a try out (the one that TOM and Harry have posted) you know the great jig with the skis to help support the router and template way of using the plunge router , they posted for all of us
> 
> I was amaze how easy it is to do, this hard job, it takes a bit of work to make the jig and the jig holder but I enjoy making jigs, but once you have that done with your off to have great time with this new way of using your router, I can't say how much I am sold on this jig and template way of using the plunge router...and I think you will be too once you give it a try..
> 
> ...


Thank you Bj for the pics. That turned out great! I am going to give a lid or two a shot of PR (plunge router) this week end I think  Really looks nice finished as well. The jig really is a snap to build like you said. 

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Steveo

It's hard to keep them in order, the numbers would help but you still need to open them up so you can read the number(s) 

But here's a trick I use, I move the mouse over the picture and It should pop up the number of the snapshot,the lowest is the 1st one, I try and use a number with all the snapshots I upload just because of that they do get all mixed up at upload,,,I'm not sure why it must be how Mark or the server sees the pictures...

It would be nice if they uploaded like a book format with a index, BUT it's not the way it's done on this forum,,, I see some use off site uploaders or to say one spot to keep them off site,,,but if I'm using the forum I think they should be here,,,,to view a bit quicker than the off site type...but they both work well.

It takes a bit more work to up load them to a off site spot and I do this for fun and I don't get paid for doing this...if I did I would take more time with them I have uploaded abot 7,000 snapshots , about 54mb of stuff 

But I will add numbers to help with the viewing.....


Bj 

============


steveo said:


> Suggestion to those posting pictures with their how-to's, tips, and various hints. Since it seems easy to insert dimensions, comments, etc. into the photos, it would be VERY helpful to put a sequence number in a corner of the posted photos. It seems like pot luck where the first and last inserted photo ends up in the block of photo insertions. From time to time its harder than playing a game to figure out the intent of the poster as to which photo should preceed another etc. I have often given up, and said S____ it and moved onto another topic hoping its better organized than the last.


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

That's a good idea Steven, I will try to do the same.

Corey


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

BJ, on the Spiro, when it says Rotation 3, if you start at A, the do you go ABC and C is the next spot or BCD and D is the next spot? Just making sure. Don't want to screw it up right out of the box  So to speak 

Corey


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Re-numbering photos. Haven't I been doing this for some time now?

Bj. "I have uploaded about 7,000 snapshots , about 54mb of stuff"

Did you really mean 54mb?

Bj. I'm having difficulty finding words to describe the way you have taken to these unfamiliar routing methods. You're box lid with the squares is close to perfect, I must deduct 1 point for hesitating in the corners and causing burns, but it does happen to most of us at some time. Would I be right in thinking that you got more pleasure in routing the squares pattern with you're self made template than you did using the Spiro? Keep it up Bj. and you could, before too long become THE USA plunge routing guru.
I'm not sure if you used the skis for that lid, but I would NOT recommend it. Using the router hand held means that at the end of the cut you release pressure and the cutter instantly leaves the surface and safely returns to the body out of harms way.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Well lets do this ,1st.pick a design, lets say it's on the number #1 template, under the design you selected it will say "A" "#3" "all" bushing #17 you will also see a "C" all this is for ,it's telling you to move the router clockwize...when making the cut..

Pop in the number 17 bushing, then the 1/8" router bit then move the template ,to the number #3 to the "A" point on the jig base,,,,once you have that one done move the red template to the next "A" and so on ALL the way around... 

If you are not sure you want to use the #3 , you should have a Black Plug that's has a #17 on one end and on the other end it should #24, the Black plug is made to hold a pencil that you can use like the router bit and trace the pattern b/4 you use the bit on it...

Also lets say you want to use a design that's on the #2 template, and it will list A,C,D,,, the 1st one you would use is the A ,,,all the way around, then move the red template to the C and do the same thing, then the D and the same thing again all the way around...


Bj 


=================


challagan said:


> BJ, on the Spiro, when it says Rotation 3, if you start at A, the do you go ABC and C is the next spot or BCD and D is the next spot? Just making sure. Don't want to screw it up right out of the box  So to speak
> 
> Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

It could be 154mb, I haven't checked it for a bit...

corner burns= I did stay in the corner to long and it did burn the Walnut  but that's ok it just a test lid that I did in a new way in Walnut...

Skis,,, I did use the skis and it worked great and gave me the free feel to the job ..  didn't need to keep the router in my mind or to say keep it flat to the template the skis did the work for me.

"squares pattern" = I can see them in cabinet doors panels ,, 16" x 24" because they look so great when it's done the right way...

It's a fun way to use the router, and it's makes it nice when it comes out right and with the template(s) and the skis you and Tom are sharing maybe others will give it a go also...

Bj 

===========



harrysin said:


> Re-numbering photos. Haven't I been doing this for some time now?
> 
> Bj. "I have uploaded about 7,000 snapshots , about 54mb of stuff"
> 
> ...


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I had played with it sometime back and had it all figured out and then I got to looking at it preparing for this weekend and it started bothering me. I did figure out though that the rotation number does make a difference under item C. If it says C: 4 then if you start at A then you need to rotate it four lugs BCDA. and keep rotating it on around 4 lugs each time and it will be A each time if your rotation is 4. It the diagram says C:2 and you start at A then your next cut is C and then A, then C and on around. The pencil thing is kind of fun and I found some cool stuff doing that... if it works out with the bushing and bit size. 
Thanks for your help BJ. I wonder why they don't give any patterns using the Star template with the heart inlay patterns on it? Fun stuff. 
Maybe I will get good enough and I can make some templates to use myself  

corey


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"It's a fun way to use the router, and it's makes it nice when it comes out right and with the template(s) and the skis you and Tom are sharing maybe others will give it a go also..."

Bj. you hit the nail on the head when you used the word FUN.....that's what it becomes..pure fun, you may remember how I described ski routing in an early post, I said that it was like sex, but I was going by memory, so don't sue me if I misled you!


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

harrysin said:


> Haven't I been doing this for some time now?


Yes you have Harry and it does make a difference. Bj has done it on and off as well. It sure does help when there are a lot of photos to the story. I will have to remember that as well. 

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

You'er Welcome Bud

Star = could be a Holy Moley thing  , just like a cross ,maybe ..

"In phrase: 'holy moley' (used as an exclamation of surprise). 1949 'Capt.
Marvel Adventures, in Barrier & Williams 'Book of Comics' 87: Holey Moley! ...
www.phrases.org.uk







challagan said:


> I had played with it sometime back and had it all figured out and then I got to looking at it preparing for this weekend and it started bothering me. I did figure out though that the rotation number does make a difference under item C. If it says C: 4 then if you start at A then you need to rotate it four lugs BCDA. and keep rotating it on around 4 lugs each time and it will be A each time if your rotation is 4. It the diagram says C:2 and you start at A then your next cut is C and then A, then C and on around. The pencil thing is kind of fun and I found some cool stuff doing that... if it works out with the bushing and bit size.
> Thanks for your help BJ. I wonder why they don't give any patterns using the Star template with the heart inlay patterns on it? Fun stuff.
> Maybe I will get good enough and I can make some templates to use myself
> 
> corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I recall sexxxxxxxxxxx , but I don't think it was like playing with the router   but it's getting hard to recall  

You need to take a real hard look at your router Harry   D:

But I do some times say , come on baby, lets go get this router job done 
and I'm talking to my router, go finger....


Bj 






harrysin said:


> "It's a fun way to use the router, and it's makes it nice when it comes out right and with the template(s) and the skis you and Tom are sharing maybe others will give it a go also..."
> 
> Bj. you hit the nail on the head when you used the word FUN.....that's what it becomes..pure fun, you may remember how I described ski routing in an early post, I said that it was like sex, but I was going by memory, so don't sue me if I misled you!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

For Corey and others that have a Colt router and the Spirocrafter system..

The Colt can be reworked just a bit to take on the Spirocrafter base plate and with a small stop block and some handles this is great router to use on the templates...

Because the Colt almost works like a plunge router with clamp system they on them it's easy to drop the router into the template and then clamp it and get the job done qucik and easy...  I made some wooden blocks the stop the router from going to deep or to say drop to the right spot...then lock it in place...

Note*** to get the Colt to work like a plunge router don't click the router motor all the way to the left into the fine adjusting screw, then it will move up or down just like a plunge router and with the stop block you can make quick and easy it will stop right at the right place you want it to...drop and slot/cut so to speak....

What I did was zero the bit out on the stock then with some MDF stock made a stop block that fits right under the router motor....that's 1/8" shorter ,you can also use the gage on the side of the base but it's hard to read for old farts like me..


Bj


----------



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Really cool Bob, never thought about using the Colt that way. Awesome! I did some work today with the Spiro... just can't get those patterns to come out the way they are supposed to. More on that in a seperate post. Thanks for posting this BJ!

Corey


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Yep ,,, that Colt is one great little router and all the power one needs to do the turnlock system, I used it on the #2 setting and buzzed right into the stock easy plus it's nice and light router...

The patterns and be tricky some times can't see what you came up with on yours..



Bj 

==========


challagan said:


> Really cool Bob, never thought about using the Colt that way. Awesome! I did some work today with the Spiro... just can't get those patterns to come out the way they are supposed to. More on that in a seperate post. Thanks for posting this BJ!
> 
> Corey


----------

