# Table 2.0



## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

It's time for a new table, ladies and gents. My current table has done me well, and I'll always recommend it for anyone starting out. Absolutely nothing wrong with it, except the room that it takes up. I want to get that real estate back in my shed, because I foresee myself adding some big tools that are going to need that table.

As most of you know, my current table is two 3/4" MDF, 2'x4', with a Formica top. I used the MLCS plate. My next design is going to be 24"x32, with a 3/4" phenolic-faced ply top, and a Rockler aluminum plate. While the old one didn't have anything in the top, the new one will have dual T-tracks for the fence, and I'll leave myself the option for a miter track up front.

I'd like to put an edge on this one to make it look nice. I'm not sure what to use, and I'm certainly not sure how to attach it. Related, I'm not sure whether I should opt for a second sheet of phen-ply on the bottom, or go with regular ply (perhaps Baltic birch) or MDF.

I'm going to make a table similar to Norm's, but I'm probably going to design it from scratch so that it fits my needs best. It will be on rollers (perhaps, if I can find ones stable enough), and be built out of probably ply.

So - input on the banding, and the second layer of the top?


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

I like the sounds of it so far. That phenolic ply is something I am hoping I can use now that I have learned about it and seen it in Rockler's ad. The tracks are a lot like I am hoping to do too.

I haven't thought past the top yet for a base or if it will just be a top I put on saw horses or anything else yet, so will be watching carefully for ideas to steal


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## Rob1 (Mar 6, 2009)

My table is 34 x 24 - two sheets of 3/4 MDF, I have T tracks to hold a home made fence, and a mitre slot. The bottom is 3/4 ply on casters, and I boxed in the router so a shop vac can collect the dust. The remainder of the bottom is storage with two shelves.

I have a PC890 motor in a router lift, so I put a remote ON / OFF on the front of the table. I also use one of the electronic plugs that start the vac when the tool is turned on.

Dust collection was the main reason I build my own table and base. If you don't already have one get a mini cyclone, and a vac with HEPA filter. 

Best of luck,
Bob


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

If you don't already have one get a mini cyclone, and a vac with HEPA filter.

+1 on the mini cyclone..

I saw my first one in action the other night at the veneer shop and was completely amazed at just how efficient it really was. Especially on the very fine sawdust particles. Very impressed!


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I'm going to try and pick up whatever material today after work, so advice would be appreciated.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

This is what I'm referring to:


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

That looks nice. When you are done building a top with that material head on over my way with some of it. If you hurry you might even still be able to see the snow that has been with us all winter before it finally melts and we get hit with the normal huge spring snow storm.

I really do like the look of that phenolic plywood.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

It's a bit darker than I wanted, but I think it will look nice with a lighter banding, like ash or poplar.

EDIT - Next morning update: I went with two pieces of the phenolic ply, they are cemented together as we speak. This afternoon I will attempt to band them.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Got the router plate and t-track in the top. Carcass is drying. I'll be doing the face frame the same time as the cabinet.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Chris, I did pretty much the same kinda deal with my band saw table. I used walnut as a band and it turned out pretty nice looking. Popular is on the bottom end of the hardwood scale and is prone to nicks and dings. Ash on the other hand is quite resilient to such things and I think would make for great banding material. just an opinion...


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

Need pics of it. Anxious to see how it turned out.

Been away for a while, didn't get to go to rockler for the phenolic, but figure it will be on sale at the store again. Still on sale online, but with the store just barely out of the way on a normal route for us, might just as well go to the store


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

It's on sale until Sunday, so you still have time. I wish they'd have their sales start on the same day, though. It gets confusing.

Pics will be taken later today. The carcass looks pretty good, hopefully everything is level. The top looks fantastic, IMO. Didn't have a chisel to square up the t-track slots (where'd that thing go?), so I used my Dremel. Not too shabby.


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

I have the time, She doesn't 

Using the dremel is fun  Gotta find where mine ended up since I used it last fall. Finally got out of the house in daylight and to the garage yesterday...it is the normal disaster I have to clean up every spring and put away things I asked my Wife to get me for inside work over the winter.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Can't wait to see what you come up with.

I may steal some ideas from you. I want to build my table before it gets too hot in the garage.

Send photos when you can.


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

timbertailor said:


> Can't wait to see what you come up with.
> 
> I may steal some ideas from you. I want to build my table before it gets too hot in the garage.
> 
> Send photos when you can.



Too hot in the garage...made me laugh. Sunday was the first day this year it was nice enough for me to comfortably be out in the garage as it was 60+F outside. Just gotta dry up some and I can finally route the mdf top. That and figure out why my mobility scooter isn't working or wait until the hoops are being done jumped through to get the new one.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Here's the pics and the progress: (photos are clickable)



This is the overall. The top will be banded, and the base will sit on a 4-3/4" footer that hasn't been built yet. The side columns are for drawers, the middle will be divided just under the bottom of the router. I think I'll be putting a switch on the front, either left or right side.



Here you can see a bit better how the Rockler fence sits in the table. It's a bit off-center in this picture.



Got pretty good fit even with the Dremel, and opting for the plate template and the special bit paid off.



Little error in measuring, have about a 1-2cm gap in this panel. It will be hidden with the face frame, and I think I'm going to attach the top to the cabinet with L-brackets.

Need to do: back, middle shelf, face, footer, drawers, switch, secure top. Have a first birthday party to clean up for this weekend, so this is going to get put on hold until at least next week.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

DerekO said:


> Too hot in the garage...made me laugh. Sunday was the first day this year it was nice enough for me to comfortably be out in the garage as it was 60+F outside. Just gotta dry up some and I can finally route the mdf top. That and figure out why my mobility scooter isn't working or wait until the hoops are being done jumped through to get the new one.


Here in Houston, most of the year is hot. You can only take off so many clothes to stay cool before the neighbors start to stare.:thank_you2:

I find it much easier to stay comfortable when it is cold. I hope to add some insulation to the garage door and a remaining uninsulated wall this year.

Stay warm.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Chris

your doing a great job, before long you will be finished and read to make sawdust. 

btw, was it you that posted the picture of some cordless tools hanging from a bracket?

i was looking for it and dont remember where it was?


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

levon said:


> hi Chris
> 
> your doing a great job, before long you will be finished and read to make sawdust.
> 
> ...


Yes it was. Just a 2x4 screwed to the wall. It's here somewhere.

I think I'm still going to hang onto my first table top, it could easily go back on a table in a pinch. Love the aluminum plate, very striking.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

timbertailor said:


> Here in Houston, most of the year is hot. You can only take off so many clothes to stay cool before the neighbors start to stare.:thank_you2:
> 
> I find it much easier to stay comfortable when it is cold. I hope to add some insulation to the garage door and a remaining uninsulated wall this year.
> 
> Stay warm.


That insulation works to reduce the flow of heat, and it works both ways. You may be able to extend your WW season by insulating and cooling it down at night and then closing the windows before it warms up.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Chris...

have you considered making use of dado's or rabbets when assembling the carcass?


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

The middle supports are done with a dado. The outside ones are a butt joint, which I may convert to a rabbets. I forgot to run a dadofor the middle shelf. C'est la vie.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

that'll work!!!


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

Brad, just insulate that garage and work in comfort year round. Is what I want to do. The neighbor did it with the shop he built (22'x30', old car storage and working on) and with the 2x6 walls and a well insulated ceiling that thing stayed cool in the summer even though it got the brunt of the sun all morning and afternoon with no trees shading it except for the first part of the morning. Radiant floor heating for the winter set at 55 degrees, the air on only rarely in the summer and then it would cool it down in no time.

I agree about the clothes. I wear shorts almost all year long unless I am going to be outside for more than 10 minutes or so as I find that most people keep it too warm for me inside during the winter.

Now back to the table, it looks nice so far. Is that the older Rockwell fence? That is the one I have sitting around. The set up of the top looks like what I plan on doing with the track for the fence, but I am thinking of track in front too.

A first b-day party? is there a toy hammer included in the presents?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Cocheseuga said:


> This is what I'm referring to:



Thanks Chris, I really like that drill press table.

Did you design it yourself or did you get plans from some one?

You have just given me a use for the table insert I no longer use. :yes4: :yes4: :yes4: 



James


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Derek - that's the old style Rockler fence that they're clearing out. Sold out now, I'm afraid. I think I'm going to put a miter up front as well, just haven't decided for sure. He got a hammer when he was born, I think.

James - that picture is from the Rockler website for the ply. I didn't see any plans for it there, sorry. Perhaps you could email them and they could cough some up?


I think I'm going to get the platform done tonight, probably just use butt joints. No need for fancy there, and I'm not really concerned with the joints coming apart once it's attached to the table. We'll see what the overall height is relative to my two work tables, and see if I go with casters or sliders underneath.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Cocheseuga said:


> James - that picture is from the Rockler website for the ply. I didn't see any plans for it there, sorry. Perhaps you could email them and they could cough some up?


 Sorry, Chris,

I thought you also made the drill press table.

I especially like the way the sanding drum fits into the gap for the large bits.

I will see what plans I can come up with.

James


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

Cocheseuga said:


> Derek - that's the old style Rockler fence that they're clearing out. Sold out now, I'm afraid. I think I'm going to put a miter up front as well, just haven't decided for sure. He got a hammer when he was born, I think.


That is the fence I have waiting then. Bought it a while back for around $25-$30, not sure of the price.

After the way things were last weekend I thought I would be routing out the mdf for the tracks this weekened, but it has gotten too cold for me again, plus no one has been successful in getting my mobility scooter to run yet this year. The minor shorts in the wires if moved wrong have finally overcome the decent set ups on it with no replacement parts available. Had planned on dealing with the insurance company for a new one anyways as this one is a couple years past it's expected life span anyways.

I plan on doing the front track, but want to do it with combo track so I can either lock things down in the t-slot track or have the ability to just use regular sized miter bar in the non-t-slot track. I still need to get that as I have plenty of t-slot track right now, 96" I think...2 of the rockwell kits when they were on sale.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Picked up some Ash on Friday and that's my band. Borrowed a TS and have it ready to go on as soon as I flush trim both half of the ply. Also picked up some 1x2 poplar for my pantry for the face frame, the leftovers will go to the RT.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> Picked up some Ash on Friday and that's my band. Borrowed a TS and have it ready to go on as soon as I flush trim both half of the ply. Also picked up some 1x2 poplar for my pantry for the face frame, the leftovers will go to the RT.


Be nice to your Poplar. It is easy to damage the sharp edges before it is finished. I suggest a strong poly finish to keep it looking good. Pantrys get a pounding.

As always, post some pictures. We want to see your progress.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

No new pica because it's just piles of wood right now. I'll take some pics of the frame coming together.


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

Better get them pics up or next people will be asking for video of you doing it 

I had nice enough weather to route my table top for t-track but did some honey-do stuff out in the garage as She managed to finally get my scooter running so I could go cut up the boxes and styrofoam that accumulated over the winter. I figure actually being able to see the garage floor and things in it is worth putting off the table top for another week or two. Just want to get it done before the excuse is it is too hot to do it instead of it is too cold to do it. So need to hurry up and get it done before May comes and goes.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

DerekO said:


> Better get them pics up or next people will be asking for video of you doing it
> 
> I had nice enough weather to route my table top for t-track but did some honey-do stuff out in the garage as She managed to finally get my scooter running so I could go cut up the boxes and styrofoam that accumulated over the winter. I figure actually being able to see the garage floor and things in it is worth putting off the table top for another week or two. Just want to get it done before the excuse is it is too hot to do it instead of it is too cold to do it. So need to hurry up and get it done before May comes and goes.


Just call it prep time for building the table. Having a clear path around the garage can't help but be a good thing.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Here is the face frame laid out on the garage floor. Perimeter is done, had to wait to bring it home before I could attach the middle columns.

I don't know when it will go on, I'm going to try and see if I have enough room to dado for a shelf in the middle. Brought the toe kick pieces home to put together today.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> Here is the face frame laid out on the garage floor. Perimeter is done, had to wait to bring it home before I could attach the middle columns.
> 
> I don't know when it will go on, I'm going to try and see if I have enough room to dado for a shelf in the middle. Brought the toe kick pieces home to put together today.


I would suggest using two screws per connection to avoid twisting next time.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

With how small it is, I didn't want to risk it. It snugs up real nice, doesn't twist, and some finish nails will put all of that to bed anyway.


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

timbertailor said:


> Just call it prep time for building the table. Having a clear path around the garage can't help but be a good thing.


It is a constant battle. Both of us are pack rats, I am just a bit more organized of one and have tried to keep my stuff to books and computer stuff the last few years. But we both have tons of stuff out there in boxes that needs to be parted with yet. 

Once I get the golf cart out and about (really soon now with this weather) sell the old table saw, bring in the love seat inside, (tonight or tomorrow) and move out the chairs that are going away on city dump day (or if someone wants them on freecycle) it will really start to open up again quickly and I will be able to move around on it on the possible second hand scooter I might get in the next two weeks for just giving him the parts from my bad 3 and the so called working one I attempt to use now. He rebuilds the motors and such and gives them to people who need them and just happened to get one in that needs a 48v motor, which I have, and is made for the super-super sized (which I am) plus he has need of the rest of the parts to get some others up and running.

So checking craigslist last weekend really worked out for me 


Once I get something I can move around with it isn't too hard for me to keep the garage clean. Having to rely on a 4 wheeler mobility scooter this last summer made it hard as it is just not as easy to turn around with, plus it doesn't do as well steering it one handed while I am carrying or pulling something. Most everything in the garage is either on wheels or light enough I can carry it while on scooter or is in it's permanent spot (some attached to the wall).

It is all the tools that didn't make it back to their proper spot that is going to take the most time along with rearranging the stuff that made it to the right spot but just got tossed into the drawer or box. When it is super cold out there the incentive to get back inside is more than the incentive to put everything away nice and neat.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Small update.

I made the stand, but I miscalculated and it's a bit too deep. It fits entirely underneath the cabinet, but I was planning on having a uniform toe kick. I'm not going to attach this for the time being and see how I like it. I'm also going to leave open the possibility of having casters with/instead.

Face frame is done, and installed. Need to sand down a couple of bits where it has uneven edges. I'm glad I did this before I did the pantry, gets the kinks out.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> Small update.
> 
> I made the stand, but I miscalculated and it's a bit too deep. It fits entirely underneath the cabinet, but I was planning on having a uniform toe kick. I'm not going to attach this for the time being and see how I like it. I'm also going to leave open the possibility of having casters with/instead.
> 
> Face frame is done, and installed. Need to sand down a couple of bits where it has uneven edges. I'm glad I did this before I did the pantry, gets the kinks out.


Love the top. Looks like you are going to have plenty of work area and storage room.

I think you should leave the lip. You may find it useful later when you want to clamp something down to the top.

Keep us posted. We love pictures!!!


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Sorry, I should have been more specific.

The lip I was referring to is the rectangle base under the cabinet main. I meant to have a uniform 4-3/4" void all around the cabinet for feet to tuck in under. In that picture (as well as the cabinet being off-center of the base), I have about 1-2" from the face frame back to the base. In back, it's plumb. Not what I expected.

The overhang of the top is definitely staying, and will be enhanced a bit by the ash banding. I think I'm going to get that part done on Friday.

And I did figure out I have enough room to rout a dado for the middle shelf. It's just a matter if I want to take the risk and attempt it, or just use 90-deg brackets.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Got the base installed today to the cabinet, and the top all ready for the ash tomorrow.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Sounding great, Chris!


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I am full of fail, apparently.

While my pieces fit in the dry run, the finished product is something to be desired. I have varying gaps at all four corners. I tried to be cute and do miter cuts, I should have made it simpler.

Any ideas of how to fill the gaps and have it look halfway decent? Also, I'm going to round the corners (if possible), should I fill then round, or round then fill?


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

Sorry to hear about the bad fit, Chris.

I, not knowing anything, would round then fill. I would be worried about the fill material coming out while routing.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Any other opinions on this? I'm going to leave it until this weekend.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> Any other opinions on this? I'm going to leave it until this weekend.


My only suggestion would to consider some kind of corner moulding. It will look like you planned it that way all along!!!!


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Update:

Got around to flush trimming the ash to the top and bottom of the table. Spent $24 on a new bit to get the job done, but it was worth it. The chips were epic, I was covered in them.

Also spent a little dosh and got a safety switch.










Here's a close up of what actually is the best looking corner.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Looks like you are well on your way to getting your table completed. I have yet to start on mine but soon.

My kitchen project is on its last step.

I think that a digital angle gauge would be a tremendous help in the future for you when you are cutting angles. They are cheap and very accurate.

Thanks for keeping us up to date on your progress.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I'd redo it, but I don't know how to get the banding off without ruining the table (it's glued as well as screwed).

Wood putty may be an option, but I heard it shrinks as it dries.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> I'd redo it, but I don't know how to get the banding off without ruining the table (it's glued as well as screwed).
> 
> Wood putty may be an option, but I heard it shrinks as it dries.


Another suggestion for future reference. Only do one moulding at a time. That way you can adjust your cuts as you go around the perimiter to allow for less than perfect angles.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Chris, sorry about the table project. Afraid I haven't got any suggestions other than filler and doing a post-mortem to figure out what went wrong. 
I studying your pictures, I'm not at all sure your angles are wrong. 
Good mitres have two requirements. Obviously, good 45* angles. Less frequently addressed is that the opposite sides MUST BE EXACTLY EQUAL in length. We only see the one corner but it looks like the one front piece is a bit to long. I will generally stack the opposite sides so they are both made with the same cut. That also follows that there can be no taper to whatever you are edging. Although a bit of taper could be hidden by shimming the banding some. 
Good Luck


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

There's a few things at play here, unfortunately.

I borrowed a table saw. It's a cheap one, but I can't complain too much. In fact, it was one I was thinking about picking up before this. I'm not too familiar with it, and it's what I used to rip the ash down and also to make the miter cuts. I can borrow a compound miter saw as well, but I just started going to town on the table saw.

I think the miter cuts are close, but they may not be a true 45. I think the biggest thing is my length was off, because I didn't have a way to make a repeatable length.

Unfortunately, I don't know where to go from here. The table is certainly functionable. It's just not pretty.

BTW - opinion on what to use for drawer fronts? Thickness, etc?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> There's a few things at play here, unfortunately.
> 
> I borrowed a table saw. It's a cheap one, but I can't complain too much. In fact, it was one I was thinking about picking up before this. I'm not too familiar with it, and it's what I used to rip the ash down and also to make the miter cuts. I can borrow a compound miter saw as well, but I just started going to town on the table saw.
> 
> ...


Hi Chris - Don't be so hard on yourself. You've got a great looking table until YOU point out the defects. The problem is when we build something ourselves we tend to focus on what went wrong, not so much on what went right. Somebody once told me that woodworking is a combination of knowledge, skill and art. Well, I think I am fairly knowledgable, my skills leave something to be desired, but when it comes to art I lean more toward Picasso than Rembrandt.:fie:

For the drawers, I think you are going to want 3/4 stock. If you are going to paint them, I would just opt for MDF. 
Good Luck


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I do think I've come across a solution, I'll post it up when I'm done.

If everything goes well, I'll have new pics available by Monday


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

No pics today, because I'm not done with my corner modification yet. Ran into a minor issue, but I think I've overcome it with time.

Got to use it for the first time as a unit yesterday, and it did great. I do need to shim the left side of the plate, because it's slightly below the surface of the table, enough where stock catches. Other than that, it worked great.

A synopsis, for people who don't want to read the whole thread:

-cabinet design similar to NYW - 3/4" white birch ply, poplar face frame
-phenolic-faced ply, 24x32 with an ash band - screwed this up
-rockler clearance fence
-dust extraction courtesy a 6.0HP Shop Vac - works really well! (next post)
-safety cutoff switch on the left side - need to add a box to co-control the vacuum

Need to do:
-finish fixing band
-put in 1/4" ply back
-make drawers
-put in shelf under router
-casters?


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## Eusibius2 (Feb 25, 2010)

Cocheseuga said:


> No pics today, because I'm not done with my corner modification yet. Ran into a minor issue, but I think I've overcome it with time.
> 
> Got to use it for the first time as a unit yesterday, and it did great. I do need to shim the left side of the plate, because it's slightly below the surface of the table, enough where stock catches. Other than that, it worked great.
> 
> ...


Chris - I read your whole post... wow, sounds like a great project that's coming along very well! I have all the parts and plans to build my RT, which, sounds a lot like yours dimensionally. Also, we are using some of the same parts (Rockler plate, t-track). 

I agree with previous posters... honestly? I wouldn't have noticed the miter corner if you wouldn't have mentioned it. And then you mention it again! STOP IT! (LOL!) Really, the corner looks fine.. we all have to learn somewhere. I'm going to attempt doing a banding around my 2x 3/4 MDF top as well, except I'm using some 1x2 scrap that I have laying around. It'll be my first attempt at doing miters on the TS as well. eh - what have you got to lose? It's a shop tool, right? Not your mother-in-laws coffee table! LOL

I think your whole project is coming along great. Keep up the great work and keep posting pics!!! :happy:


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

It's a defense mechanism. I try to point out my own flaws before others do.

TBH, the corners were a lot worse in person. But I think I came up with a way to make them look nice, and look like I planned it that way from the beginning. It is a shop tool, but I still want to be proud when I look at it.

If I had to do it again, I wouldn't do miters. I'd do butt joints. And failing that, I'd cut each piece long, and totally dry fit each piece and trim until it was just perfect.


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## irexx (Apr 8, 2010)

*how tall should the base be*

first I am a new kid on the block so some of my word usage may not be correct. I just purchased a router table from from the folks at router workshop. now i need to build a base for it. being 6 foot one on a good day, and on bad day 5 foot 11. how tall should that base be. not sure my self so if you would let me know your thoughts on this subject.

best wishs;

richard rishell


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I'm also 6/1 and my benchtop router table, sitting on the bench, comes up to just below my chest. I find it to be a very comfortable height for the small things i am routing. For bigger things, it may not be ideal.
I'd say, play with it a bit to see what's comfortable for you, and consider the size of the things you are routing.
There is nothing worse than hunching over a low work bench for several hours a day. Even for a relatively young fella like me.


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## Eusibius2 (Feb 25, 2010)

i made mine same height as my table saw. this way it can also serve as an outfeed table for the TS. Roughly 40" high. I'm 6'0" and this is a comfortable height.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I made mine to be exactly flush with my work tables, about 33" tall or so. I am 5'9".

This may be a bit low for me in the future, but I can always add height to all of them, and after moving it around yesterday, I think casters are in my future as well.

Only thing I was able to do yesterday was to finish securing the top to the cabinet. I used right-angle brackets with screws instead of trying to permanently attach it.

Why? If I ever decide to upgrade or revise either the top or the cabinet, I won't have to redo the whole thing.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I think I'm going to take off all the band with a jigsaw, sand off the glue and do it over. My after-the-fact fix works, but I'm not impressed.

But, for the important bit - trying to figure out what wood to use for the drawer faces. Red oak? Ash? Something else?

Cost is a factor.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> I made mine to be exactly flush with my work tables, about 33" tall or so. I am 5'9".
> 
> This may be a bit low for me in the future, but I can always add height to all of them, and after moving it around yesterday, I think casters are in my future as well.
> 
> ...


Hi Chris - Good planning. If you're anything like me, about the only thing constant is change. 
If cost is a consideration on drawer fronts, poplar or even clear pine has some nice grain and a lot can be done with stain. I've got some poplar shelves with a walnut stain that look pretty nice.
Good luck


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> I think I'm going to take off all the band with a jigsaw, sand off the glue and do it over. My after-the-fact fix works, but I'm not impressed.
> 
> But, for the important bit - trying to figure out what wood to use for the drawer faces. Red oak? Ash? Something else?
> 
> Cost is a factor.


Poplar is a good choice if you are on a budget.

I was thinking about this very thing, too. I was contemplating using American Holly with some Macassar Ebony. I think the contrast would look good with an Incra double dovetail in the faces.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Chris,,

if your going to jigsaw that band off, be sure to use a guide of some sorts...save ya alot of time sanding in the end. I'm glad to see you're going to the effort of doing it again! very good! Before you start cutting, make sure the top itself is square. You could be making perfect 45* corners and think something is wrong if the tabletop itself isn't square. 

as for your drawer fronts... thats always a toughy! *S* Depends on the look you're after. I went with maple banded with walnut and it turned out very nice. Popular/pine/fur are good choices but are prone to lil nicks and dings over time. Much more so than traditional hardwoods. 

create a cutlist prior to purchasing the wood for the drawer fronts and this should give you a good idea of what you'll end up having to spend. Red oak, ash, hickory, white oak, QSWO can be gorgeous. Regardless of what you pick as long as you like it, it'll be a perfect choice. 

Plywood would give you a consistant grain pattern thoughout the entire front of your RT. Veneers could be another consideration. Very affoardable to give you just about any look you might be after. Since these fronts will be relatively small, culls, glue and clamps would be all ya need. 

here's wishing ya luck removing the old trim!!!!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

timbertailor said:


> I was thinking about this very thing, too. I was contemplating using American Holly with some Macassar Ebony. I think the contrast would look good with an Incra double dovetail in the faces.



Dang boy... very little thought required!!!


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## Tellefan (Feb 22, 2009)

Chris,

If you're going to remove the banding, I'd suggest making a zero clearance plate for the bottom of a circular saw. A jig saw won't give you a perfect edge. You'll spend lots of time sanding it straight. I use hardboard then cut around the safety guard. One of the woodworking magazines had an article about doing this. Then use a really fine blade with a straight edge clamped down with C clamps. That way you'll get a perfect edge without any splintering.

Good luck,
David


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Tellefan said:


> Chris,
> 
> If you're going to remove the banding, I'd suggest making a zero clearance plate for the bottom of a circular saw. A jig saw won't give you a perfect edge. You'll spend lots of time sanding it straight. I use hardboard then cut around the safety guard. One of the woodworking magazines had an article about doing this. Then use a really fine blade with a straight edge clamped down with C clamps. That way you'll get a perfect edge without any splintering.
> 
> ...


An even easier solution would be to use an all in one quick clamp in conjunction with your circular saw. I made a template for my circular saw and router so I can quickly set the offset for the clamp for anything I need it for.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

timbertailor said:


> An even easier solution would be to use an all in one quick clamp in conjunction with your circular saw. I made a template for my circular saw and router so I can quickly set the offset for the clamp for anything I need it for.


Those all-in-clamps are great, but I also think a zero clearance shoe for the circular saw would be needed. The two address different issues. Could probably cut it with the router also but I wouldn't do it that way.


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## Tellefan (Feb 22, 2009)

I use a quick clamp straight edge just like in the picture. I still need to use a carpenters square to check it. They don't always clamp down straight. I don't trust them without doing this.

David


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

There was the tiniest little space between the band on front and the table. A little tap on a flat screwdriver and the glue gave way. Got it all sanded down already awaiting replacement. 

Picked up an ash board on sale and it's going to give me enough to replace the band and make the drawer fronts.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Tellefan said:


> I use a quick clamp straight edge just like in the picture. I still need to use a carpenters square to check it. They don't always clamp down straight. I don't trust them without doing this.
> 
> David


Hi all

I use shop made quick clamp. 
This one will be fixed directly on the stock by a lever whatever the stock width is

You can see details at this adress
http://www.lescopeaux.asso.fr/Techniques/clic.php3?url=Docs/Sante_Regle_a_centrer.pdf
Cheers
Santé


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just one more way with the quick clamp, the router /power saw is locked in the quick clamp, it just slides in the clamp taking the error away from moving from one side or the other..,easy a quick way to cut plywood (4' x 8' sheets ) or putting in dado's/rabbits in place..

=====



Santé said:


> Hi all
> 
> I use shop made quick clamp.
> This one will be fixed directly on the stock by a lever whatever the stock width is
> ...


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## AlanSweet (Apr 28, 2010)

Make sure the tracks extend beyond the center of the table. You will find that this makes adjusting to larger bits easier. If you are like me when you are using larger bits you will make a number of passes rather than just one. The tracks extending beyond the center will allow you to move the fence beyond the center and give you greater control of how much you want cut.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Tried to do a bit more work on it Friday, but I didn't get a lot done. Lifted the whole thing up onto my work tables, which was an impressive feat by itself. Will make this next bit so much easier.

I moved the safety switch from the left side of the table to the front left side, as a false drawer. Left myself enough room to use clamps.

Replaced the front ash band for the top, it's just awaiting flush trim. I'll do the back today.

Put in a few poplar pieces to separate the drawer fronts. I'm working on making some shop slides for the drawers, then I can put the router shelf on at start buttoning it up. Pics later today or tomorrow.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I said there would be pics, and here they are:










Relocation of safety switch. I'm going to try and clean up the hole for the power cords a little bit, but that's low on the priority sheet. Not a bad place to store the 'phones, either.










This is on the right side. I'm holding the push stick, because I'll need to sort out how I'll hang it there.










I've gotten two drawers worked out. I've never done something like this before, so it's really ugly to see how I did it. At some point, I'll use a better way, perhaps totally redo the drawers, but for right now I need to get this thing finished so I can have my shed back. Stuff is everywhere.

I used scrap ply to support the drawers inside, and used the same ply for the drawer itself, with ash as the face. Two down, three to go.










I also still need to make a router shelf, and enclose the front and back, and route the power cords. I also didn't get to fix the back ash band or trim either. It was date night, so not a whole lot of progress, but at least I got the two drawers fabbed up. Like I said, not my best effort, but it's learning.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Bottom drawer on the right side is done. I think the left side is going to be one big drawer, but I haven't finalized that thought process yet.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Guess people are getting tired of my threads.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

But no matter, update away.

Got quite a bit done yesterday, after bribing the wife with a trip out to dinner.

- Got the bottom left drawer internals all sorted out - it's going to be a deep drawer, something that may come in handy.
- Installed the router shelf, with plenty of room to drop the motor in and out.
- Cut a hole for the cords to run into the router compartment.
- Removed the other ash band. New one will go on this afternoon (hopefully) and both will be finished up on Friday.
- Started to put the back panel on, but stopped due to light. Being secured with small nails.

I think that's it.


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## vcooney (Apr 30, 2010)

Cocheseuga,
Where did you get your table top from? (phenolic)

Vince


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## Tellefan (Feb 22, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> Guess people are getting tired of my threads.


NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

Sorry, I've been really busy trying to get things done. Wow the edge banding really looks great now!! 

For the first time around you're doing a really NICE job. You give me inspiration to tackle new projects. 

Thank you!

David


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

vcooney said:


> Cocheseuga,
> Where did you get your table top from? (phenolic)
> 
> Vince


Rockler. It should be on sale currently for $20 a piece.


Thanks David. Should be able to take a pic this afternoon and load it up in the morning. Decided to leave things for a bit - well, not be in such a hurry to finish it up - as it's back in place with my tables and is functional again. Bands are completely done, unless I want to do a roundover on anything. I know why ash is called that. :lol:


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## Tellefan (Feb 22, 2009)

Someday I'll get around to building mine. I want to use the Norm Abrams plan but change it up a little. I have a bad back, surgery, spinal cord stimulator implant, the whole works and don't need to be bending over.

So... I plan on using a piano hinge to be able to raise the top. Oh.... also, I've got some really nice Corian to make the top out of and also some core parts of the fence.

I purchased a Granite top Steel City table saw about a year ago, finally got it into the basement, now I've got to make room to assemble it.

David


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Some more pictures...










In this picture you can see my router bits case and router bag stored in the middle bottom section.










Top drawer, in current unfinished state. Storing slot cutter box, collet wrench and bit depth gauge.










Middle drawer, with loose bit storage. It's a foam piece glued to the drawer bottom. I'll eventually do all my bits like this, when I figure out how I can identify them.










A closer shot of the table. I had the router out to do...










...this. Banding is finished. A far cry from what you saw before. That light area is where I didn't have the bit at quite the proper angle, and took off a small amount of the phenolic. No real change to the feel or the plane. Not an issue.










You can see the general state of disarray the shed is in, and this is after I cleaned up. This week is going to be all about organization, and reworking of some of my storage solutions. Now that I have the space set up about the way I want it (minus adding some tools), I need to adjust where a few things are.

After that, the doors to the pantry are going to get done, then I can build a couple of model cars that have been on the to-do list for a couple of years. After that, the Morris Chair Project begins.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I'm at a bit of a sticking point. I want to get the table finished, but I don't know what to do with the drawers. Specifically, I don't know how to make them.

I tried tacking on some ply strips to the inside of the case for the drawers to slide on, but I've been severely disappointed. I thought about putting in solid shelves for the drawers to slide on, but I have my doubts. I could certainly use something involving slides, but boy does that get expensive when I'm looking at four sets at least.

I just don't know how to make it work. I wish I had taken more time and had done the dado work on the inside for the shelves/drawers, but I simply didn't have the proper tools at the time. It's a consideration to completely redo the cabinet, but it's rather well done besides that.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Check out page 13 (numbered as 35).


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Thanks for that, I'm going to give it a read today.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> I'm at a bit of a sticking point. I want to get the table finished, but I don't know what to do with the drawers. Specifically, I don't know how to make them.


Don't know what your budget is to come up with a solution but wood runners covered in laminate make for inexpensive, yet, effective slides. They slide easily and are easy to fabricate and install.

Left over phenolic strips or UHMV is also a good solution if you have some laying around.

The next level is inexpensive bottom mount slides like those discussed in the article provided.

Good luck and keep us posted.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

A little wax goes a long way as well.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> I'm at a bit of a sticking point. I want to get the table finished, but I don't know what to do with the drawers. Specifically, I don't know how to make them.
> 
> I tried tacking on some ply strips to the inside of the case for the drawers to slide on, but I've been severely disappointed. I thought about putting in solid shelves for the drawers to slide on, but I have my doubts. I could certainly use something involving slides, but boy does that get expensive when I'm looking at four sets at least.
> 
> I just don't know how to make it work. I wish I had taken more time and had done the dado work on the inside for the shelves/drawers, but I simply didn't have the proper tools at the time. It's a consideration to completely redo the cabinet, but it's rather well done besides that.


Hi Chris - table lookin goooood!!:sold:
Just a suggestion. I haven't tried this but thought it was a neat idea. Once I tore a kitchen apart that had been done in the 40's early 50's and instead of the old wood on wood system, the guy had put 3/4" w x 3/8" dados in the runners. Then used pieces of 1/2" hardwood dowel rod cut for a loose fit. about a half dozen on each runner. He only did this on the big drawers intended for heavy pots and pans and such. Worked great, over 50 years with very little wear or drag. He did put small blocks to act as stoppers about the middle to keep the dowel rollers from migrating all the way to one end or the other. Also made the drawers easier to make and allows them to be larger. Only required a bit more than 1/8" vertical clearance and no side clearance. With the commercial slides you loose 1" in drawer width plus you have to build the drawer pretty accurately. Drawer needs to be Opening minus 1" +0"/-1/32". :blink:
Just a suggestion


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

OK, a bit of a disappointing update.

I made it worse. I attempted to put in ply dividers/drawer supports in the cabinet, and it totally looks like crap now. Very frustrating. I just don't think trying to retrofit this is going to work at all.

So, I think I have a few options:

1) totally redo it. Everything but the top. Build it with dados, like it should be done, and have the drawers slide in better.

2) Face frame redo. Make the face flush with the plywood (3/4") all the way around. This would make trying to put in the shelves a bit easier, and I could make sure they are good and level. I should just be able to pry it off, since it's held in place with brad nails. I may or may not end up in the same lurch.

I don't know if there's a third option. Perhaps do #2, and attach rails on the inside for the drawers to slide in.

Wait...3) since I never glued up the outside panels, I suppose I could take those off and be able to attach rails, or do the dados and make sure everything lines up. And then do #2.

Hmm...


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

If someone can respond to this question, this will be the end of this thread.

I'm making drawers consisting of 1/2" ply, drilled through and backed by a piece of 1/4" hardboard. Don't know if that's a good idea or not, but I thought it might be.

How much height will I need for the bits in the drawers?


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

This sounds similar to what Norm did with his router table, though I think he used 1/4" plywood. I would imagine for most bits this would be sufficient. Some taller/larger bits you may want to test out.

Also, this thread cannot be finished until you post the final photos of your table!! ;-)


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

So do you want the before disassembly or after picture?


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