# Problems with Cabot Stain on Red Oak



## marksmallwood (Aug 25, 2011)

I've built a very large entertainment center out of red oak plywood with solid red oak facing. I tested many different types, colors, and mixtures of stain before I landed on Cabot's Red Oak oil based stain. I love the color. From everything I've read, you're supposed to put Cabot's on but not wipe it down like other stains. It says to sand any excess off. So, I've been using a brush and like the color I get brushing it on and leaving it, but its hard to get it totally even. Am I doing this wrong?

I also tried putting a much thinner coat on and wiping off any excess. It is, of course, much much lighter. I also had a problem with a few blotches. 

Any help/direction would be great as I've spent months and lots of money building this and don't want to mess up now. Thanks.


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

I've only ever used Cabot's exterior oil stain on a shed. Seemed like great stuff. I would say practice practice practice on test pieces until you find a technique that works for you.

You could put some of the stain in a container, thin with spirits, then apply multiple coats, letting it dry well between coats.

As for blotches... Maybe try sanding the oak just before hand with a fine sand paper, then clean with mineral spirits?

Are you going to apply a grain filler before staining?


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## bcfunburst (Jan 14, 2012)

*Red Oak Stain*



marksmallwood said:


> I've built a very large entertainment center out of red oak plywood with solid red oak facing. I tested many different types, colors, and mixtures of stain before I landed on Cabot's Red Oak oil based stain. I love the color. From everything I've read, you're supposed to put Cabot's on but not wipe it down like other stains. It says to sand any excess off. So, I've been using a brush and like the color I get brushing it on and leaving it, but its hard to get it totally even. Am I doing this wrong?
> 
> I also tried putting a much thinner coat on and wiping off any excess. It is, of course, much much lighter. I also had a problem with a few blotches.
> 
> Any help/direction would be great as I've spent months and lots of money building this and don't want to mess up now. Thanks.


***

I have used Red Oak Stain on all my personal furniture projects. I tried several brands but the only one delivering my preferred color was "Minwax" brand. I don't even like the product since it is so thin and watery. I am sure the secret to even color staining is to use "Wood Conditioner" solution on all new wood first, THEN the stain a few minutes later. I have had great success this way. Personally, I pile on the stain, coat after coat, drying in between coats. Some sanding will be required to remove dust nibbs, etc.. Once you arrive at the desired color you are ready for your finish coatings.
I am not totally sure, but you might be able to let your piece dry thoroughly, sand it a bit and try the "Wood Conditioner" and do some more staining to get an even coat as you desire. Perhaps a test piece first?? I did many test pieces first to get where I needed to be. On some different woods its harder to get an even stain. The "Wood Conditioner" really helped my finishing.


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## Woodshaper67 (Jan 13, 2012)

Cabots is a hard stain to get right.I use it a good bit on stair treads the paint store I use mixes cabots to any color I need and they told me years back to apply it with a rag and that has worked for me. Now on oak plywood it will be differant than soild oak.


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## dustmagnet (Jul 24, 2012)

Just going to throw this out there, if you use a conditioner before the stain, most of the time if you won't get the darker look, it tends to be a bit lighter.


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