# Using drill press



## OIB-HENRY (Feb 26, 2013)

What are the benefits and problems of using drill presses with router bits?


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## tjstamp (Jun 13, 2012)

not enough rpm.


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

Not great lateral bearing support in a drill press too - straight up and down is good, but side to side not so much.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

OIB-HENRY said:


> What are the benefits and problems of using drill presses with router bits?


Henry, drill press and router are two different machines for different purposes. 

The router bits is designed to spin at 8,000 to 35,000 RPM and the router has bearings designed to take the sideways thrust of the cut.

The drill press runs much slower and is designed for vertical plunge only.

I see no real benefit in using a router bit in a drill press.


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## PRDarnell (Mar 21, 2012)

And how about safety? 

Wow! I can't imagine the damage I would do to myself with either the bit (any bit!), the workpiece that would surely get out of hand, or even the chips that would be flying!

:nono:


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## roxanne562001 (Feb 5, 2012)

The drill press turns to slow. I tried to do that a while ago using a mill type vise. The 16 speed drill press on high speed. The side thrust and chatter made the #2 Morris taper 5/8" chuck come loose and drop down out of the drill press causing a very dangerous heavy chuck flying around. I was lucky not to be injured. The drill press is not made to be a router or a milling machine. Speaking from experience I do not recommend it!!!!!


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## OIB-HENRY (Feb 26, 2013)

Thanks group for your comments. My Delta bench drill press chuck is pressed onto a tapered shaft and has occasionally come loose, even without a router bit. I will stay away from considering using a drill press as a router. Henry


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## Web Shepherd (Feb 8, 2012)

*Using router bits in a drill press is not recommended*



OIB-HENRY said:


> What are the benefits and problems of using drill presses with router bits?


Henry ~ I agree with everyone else about NOT using router bits in a drill press. I raised this question in a previous thread because the old Craftsman drill presses from the late 40's and early 50's provided router bits and collet adapters for the chucks. The selling point for Sears was that you could see what you were routing (similar to an overarm pin router) and by having accessories made the drill press more versital. Here is another link. I inherited my drill press from my father and every once in a while I am tempted to use the routers bits for it. But the wise advice from the veteran members of this form, especially Bj, have kept me out of trouble. As they said on the ol'e Hill Streets Blues TV program: "Stay safe out there." :yes4:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Oh, it can be done, and done safely. BUT, it will take a LOT of modifications, meaning a LOT of money invested in doing it. Unless you've got a ton of talent, and a ton of money to invest in doing it, and just want to do it for doing it, I go along with the rest of the gang - not worth doing.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

What _might_ work for you, Henry, is a *flexshaft* and burrs, sanding discs and drill bits.
Not exactly routing, but if you were thinking of doing a bit of carving and engraving (?)...
Flexible Shaft for PTO Hand Tools: Power Drill, Drillpress Flexible Shaft


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## IRONMULE31014 (Feb 16, 2013)

Very bad on drill press bearings


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

Some older small drill presses such as Craftsman and Walker Turner used a Jacobs locking collar chuck. The chuck was retained to the spindle taper with the collar, and could be removed by screwing the collar down to the chuck body, pushing the chuck off the taper
The old Walker Turner guide describes routing,drum sanding, and even surface grinding steel with a cup wheel.
All pretty iffy to me, but, those were the days when a radial arm saw was all that was needed for any projects.

Anyway, that type of chuck will not fly off.


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Hi Don, I have used a great number metalworking and woodworking machines that use a the Morse taper and have never seen them fail if properly seated and used as designed. Most drill presses use a Morse to Jacobs taper adapter. These don't fail, it's when you get into the oddball stuff that things start to fall apart. They should never be used for side load as in milling or routing.


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

roxanne described a situation above where a morse taper shank pulled out from chatter ect.
I have not had that happen, but have had a chuck come off the Jacobs taper end of a shank.
The little Clausing milling machines used Morse 2 taper tooling, but had a threaded draw bar to retain them.
At some point, the manufactures of drill presses stopped offering the locking coller type chucks.
Probably because, even the best drill chucks just dont hold up well to side loads.


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## bowdean (May 7, 2014)

The best thing for my old drill press, i made a horiz. Belt sander table using drill press and old 3x21 belt sander that motor was wore out. Set it up to use 4x50 sanding belt 100 grit. Works good on edges!!!later bowdean


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