# Workbench top material



## jackoman (Nov 28, 2011)

Just thinking about building a new workbench for my new shop.

What type of material are you finding to make the best tops?

I don't want to use MDF this time.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

If you don't want to make your own, consider a butcherblock style. Sears has a decent one for about $80.

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more


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## jackoman (Nov 28, 2011)

Buy a benchtop! My wife would kill me after buying new tools. :fie:


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

When we remodeled the kitchen and dining room, we replaced the door to the garage.
It was a wood, solid core door. Heavy as all heck, and made a great workbench. I nailed a stringer to the garage wall, made a frame with 2x4s, and screwed the door to it.
I can beat it with a sledge hammer and it's solid.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

IMHO the biggest bestest bang for the buck is plywood 3/4 doubled with grains crossed and belies bumped rip plywood scraps to build an underframe wax and wax some more


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

jackoman said:


> Buy a benchtop! My wife would kill me after buying new tools. :fie:


Gotta pick your battles. Sometimes it's worth the cash just to get something done so you can move on to other things.

Besides, you get it done in an hour's trip to Sears, that's more time you can make her what she wants. :moil:


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## rrj (Jan 16, 2012)

I built mine last year with 2x6 doug fir riped to 2" and glued end grain up, routed dog holes and finished with a mixture of Turpentine, bees wax and BLO. Works great and glue does not stick to it.


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## tkinor (Dec 28, 2011)

A tip I picked up awhile back about tops was that if you are using multiple layers of material for your top and glueing/screwing them together just remember to figure out where your dog holes are going to be and don't put any screws there.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Sometimes it's best to just buy one with all the parts you want and need on one.

60" Hardwood Oak Workbench w/ 4 Drawers

===


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## TheOakDude (Oct 11, 2011)

Buy one if you want to ....no probs with that..Lie Nielson do a major bench with some awesome vice fittings etc...$2000.00.
But in all honesty, there are so truly easy to make and you can design it around your own needs. I thought it was a really good project to do and enjoy the results.
You will no doubt after you have built it find improvements etc and next time it will be even better.
*Check out the ones for sale and use their design specs regarding wood choice and arrangments etc*
My table is 4inch by 4 inch square softwood base with hardwood top made up of approx 9inch wide planks approx4 inches thick, can even laminate base layer 2 inches softwood to 2 inch thick hardwood surface layer, all glued and dowelled. Last for years.
But to answer you question....I used 40mm thick top layer of french oak...simply because I have loads of it to hand, tung oiled, seveal times, it seems to be wearing well.
Price some up and you will be surprised how cheap it may be, especially for the small amount you will need for a table top.
happy building


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

The old adage "It ain't a piano!" springs to mind. I use D. Fir 3/4" plywood and beat the cr*p out of it; don't care...when it gets ugly I just replace it. 
I absolutely get having a beautifully crafted workbench, but frankly I'd hate doing anything on it for fear of damaging it. 
Cheers,
-Dan


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

The big question is, what are you planning on doing with it, and what style of bench are you wanting to build? If you are looking at Roubo style, just about any solid hardwood will do well. I know a lot of very sturdy benches built from Ash and Soft Maple. This style of bench lends itself to hand tool useage more, as the weight is needed to hold everything steady. (Note, the tops for these are usually 3-4inches thick)

If you are planning on using this for power tool operations, the Roubo style is still good, but not as needed. I personally would go with a couple layers of plywood for a bench top.


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## bcfunburst (Jan 14, 2012)

jackoman said:


> Just thinking about building a new workbench for my new shop.
> 
> What type of material are you finding to make the best tops?
> 
> I don't want to use MDF this time.


I built a utility workbench years ago, topping it with hardboard over 2" X 6". I painted the top white with marine grade hard enamel. Other than a few stains, it has held up far beyond expectations. Best of luck to you. Please use all your safety senses.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

rrj said:


> I built mine last year with 2x6 doug fir riped to 2" and glued end grain up, routed dog holes and finished with a mixture of Turpentine, bees wax and BLO. Works great and glue does not stick to it.


 
End grain up? Could you post a picture please?


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## rrj (Jan 16, 2012)

RJM60,
Sorry, I am not able to post pictures as I have not meet the 10 post requirement. Will post pic's when I get there.
Bob


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Robert, Bob has cross cut his wood in to 2" lengths, turned the ends up and glued them together the same way butcher blocks are made.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Sometimes it's best to just buy one with all the parts you want and need on one.
> 
> ...


I have 2 of these benches, left my other ones in the old shop for the tenant. They were 2x4, 2x6 construction with 1/4" MDF on top so it could be replaced if needed.

I bought them on a special managers sale when you could use the 20% off coupons for sale items and got them for under 100. I could not build them for this much.
The drawer slides on this bench only allow the drawers to open half way so you have to dig for things in the back. You can replaced the slides with full extension slides or with shop built slides to get better access. The end vise is a little cheap but usable. If you put rollers on it you will probably want to reinforce the top to leg joint, easily done with scrap plywood.

That said, I would buy another one if I had the room and could get it for the same price.
If you go this route watch for it on sale.
Mike


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

The best workbench that I ever built was made from a recycled solid wood smooth surface commercial door that I bought for $20. It was 3' wide and 6'8" tall, so I cut it down to 28" width to get rid of the doorknob hole and the hinge mortises. Then I built the legs and base frame from 2X4 and 4X4 construction lumber. I had about $50 in it total, and it was very flat and solid. I made a lot of things on it, but I left it behind when I moved and I'm still kicking myself. When I find another one of those doors cheap I'll be building another one.

Charley


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## sourdough (Jan 31, 2010)

My bench basic, built of 2X4 and 2X6 frame. Shelf across bottom and ends enclosed with 3/4 ply. The way I did the top was double 3/4 ply, then used 1X3 oak trim all the way around, setting it 1/4" higher than ply top. Dropped smooth face hardboard within that lip and a little glue. When top goes to hell, pop it up and out and put a new piece in. My bench takes two men to move and the hardboard top lasts longer than you think.
Unless you do a lot of freehand chain saw carving, jackhammer sculpting or engine rebuilding on it. I'd make another one in a minute.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

I have two but the best one I have is the 2 x 4 and 2 x 6 made one ,it was 36" tall but I cut it down to 24" tall, it has 3ea. 3/4" x 4' x 8 ' MDF top and a vinyl cover over that and a 1/4" x 3' x 8' glass top (for glue up items) ,it's a bit of a tank and takes 2 floor jacks to move it around the shop..

==


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## rrj (Jan 16, 2012)

Mike & Robert,
Mike, thanks. That is what I did. I was in the shop taking pictures and thinking about why Robert wanted pictures and then realized that I made a typo. I meant to say edge grain up not end grain up.
Bob


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## Bob in St. Louis (Jan 24, 2012)

Mine is a wall mounted 12' running length of 2"x4" framework covered first with scraps of MDF, then two layers of 1/4" plywood. 
Once the top got ugly looking (took about 5 years), I ran a belt sander across it, then glued a thin sheet of Luan on top. The Luan lasted about another five years and it's about time to put another sheet on top. The nice thing about that, is you can buy a sheet for $8, and for a 24" wide bench on the wall, I get enough material to cover the whole thing. Not a bad deal for $8.

Bob


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## jamays (Nov 4, 2012)

*Great suggestion!*

I followed sourdough's suggestion and it worked great!



sourdough said:


> My bench basic, built of 2X4 and 2X6 frame. Shelf across bottom and ends enclosed with 3/4 ply. The way I did the top was double 3/4 ply, then used 1X3 oak trim all the way around, setting it 1/4" higher than ply top. Dropped smooth face hardboard within that lip and a little glue. When top goes to hell, pop it up and out and put a new piece in. My bench takes two men to move and the hardboard top lasts longer than you think.
> Unless you do a lot of freehand chain saw carving, jackhammer sculpting or engine rebuilding on it. I'd make another one in a minute.


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