# Router Table Fence Material



## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Forgive me if this has been discussed many times before, but what is the preferred material to build a router table fence out of. MDF, Baltic Birch, something else? Is extruded aluminum the way to go? It would be used for general purposes. I would like it to be affordable and square. I built a router fence without slots for a router fence.

KR


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi KR

" I would like it to be affordable and square "

MDF works the best for that job..

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Kelly Rittgers said:


> Forgive me if this has been discussed many times before, but what is the preferred material to build a router table fence out of. MDF, Baltic Birch, something else? Is extruded aluminum the way to go? It would be used for general purposes. I would like it to be affordable and square. I built a router fence without slots for a router fence.
> 
> KR


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Bob, how would I join it? With glue and screws? I would want an L shaped piece and then have the option of attaching two outer fences that would slide.

Better to screw and glue? Does it take special screws?

Thanks so much

KR


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Kelly Rittgers said:


> Bob, how would I join it? With glue and screws? I would want an L shaped piece and then have the option of attaching two outer fences that would slide.
> 
> Better to screw and glue? Does it take special screws?
> 
> ...


Hi Kelly - I like the aluminum extrusion for the L with MDF faces. t-track along the back of the faces for sliding and one along the front for featherboards. The t-track can always be reused should you need to change the faces out.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Put the screws back in the box, use glue only, put slots in the MDF and use carr.bolts and knobs..so you can slide them easy..I will suggest a 3 part fence,that's to say, a out feed side a infeed side a insert type in the center, the center one has 10 deg. angles on the ends of it to hold it in place..and match up with the other two part...

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Kelly Rittgers said:


> Bob, how would I join it? With glue and screws? I would want an L shaped piece and then have the option of attaching two outer fences that would slide.
> 
> Better to screw and glue? Does it take special screws?
> 
> ...


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Put the screws back in the box, use glue only, put slots in the MDF and use carr.bolts and knobs..so you can slide them easy..I will suggest a 3 part fence,that's to say, a out feed side a infeed side a insert type in the center, the center one has 10 deg. angles on the ends of it to hold it in place..and match up with the other two part...
> 
> ======


Good timing.

I'm building my router table fence now and the angled face pieces are a nice feature. I was planning on more carriage bolts to hold the center insert but this is a much more elegant solution.

I elected to place the t-track above the sliding pieces and fastened to the back plate (behind the slidy pieces) but may reconsider. Placing it above does require a longer featherboard but I wanted to make a few anyway (where's the pattern for that curvy one?).

Why not glue and screws to attach the fence back plate to the base? I'm using a piece of 3/4" melamine for my base and the core wood is more like chip board than MDF. I'm not sure how good a bond joint I would get with just glue.

I also decided to put the slots in the backing plate instead of the MDF sliders. This will make them easier to replace and provide more flat surface for the fence. It should also make them last longer since the bolt heads will have support all the way around the head instead of just on the sides. A large flat washer on the back will distribute the clamp load. Also, the back plate is plywood.

I'm using wooden L-clamps to hold the fence to the table rather than t-track in the top. For now, I've also omited a miter slot in the table but I may add one if, after using the table for a while, I find it's needed.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

MDF does not take on screws well, it will split easy or lift the stock, it's like cardboard in a small way..you can predrill it but it will still split or separate.. 

The new glues we now have will hold just fine..just ruff it up just a little bit with some 60 or 40 grit sand paper..

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RJM60 said:


> Good timing.
> 
> I'm building my router table fence now and the angled face pieces are a nice feature. I was planning on more carriage bolts to hold the center insert but this is a much more elegant solution.
> 
> ...


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Where do you get aluminum extrusion? Is it L shaped?

Helpful

KR


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Here's one or two

Router Table Fence
8020inc items - Get great deals on Business Industrial, Video Games items on eBay.com!
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Kelly Rittgers said:


> Where do you get aluminum extrusion? Is it L shaped?
> 
> Helpful
> 
> KR


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Thanks. I like the look of the peachtree thing.

kR


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

*Inserts...*

Hi Bob

I like the idea of the insert with a 10° angle to hold it in place. I assume this is so one can have an assortment of inserts with various apertures to match various bits? I guess the idea is to have as small an opening around the bit as possible?

I assume the insert drops in from above?

Regards

Matthew


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Here's a link where you can buy some fence material to make your own to complete fences.

Router Table Fence


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

" I assume the insert drops in from above?" = it can be setup that way but it's best from the front side, all that's need is just side the part of the fence to one side a little bit and pop it in place from the front side..than push the fence over and lock it in place..quick and easy...

You don't need one for every bit you have ,one will do the job for many bits, the one for the slot cutters works very well on the router table, I use it to remove the lids on boxes, it's works just like the plate on your table saw you could say,it's helps the stock from dropping in the hole and is a very safe way to take off the tops on boxes..and that's on any size of box.. and I do use a 3" saw blade some times for the thick boxes (5/8" to 1 1/4" thick stock) with arbor I got from Grizzly tools..


G1438 Slitting Saw Arbor
H5622 Slitting Saw Arbor Set

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matt1710 said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> I like the idea of the insert with a 10° angle to hold it in place. I assume this is so one can have an assortment of inserts with various apertures to match various bits? I guess the idea is to have as small an opening around the bit as possible?
> 
> ...


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

I opted for heavy aluminum angle (3/8"x3"), purchased from Online Metals, and then faced it with MDF. Cutting the bit opening and slots in the aluminum was fun.










The aluminum angle assures that the foundation is precisely square to the table.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Matt
> 
> " I assume the insert drops in from above?" = it can be setup that way but it's best from the front side, all that's need is just side the part of the fence to one side a little bit and pop it in place from the front side..than push the fence over and lock it in place..quick and easy...
> 
> ...


Thanks for that info Bob - however if the face on the fence doesn't slide, then I guess a drop-in insert is the only way to go - right? Am not quite sure of the benefits of a sliding face - and am trying to keep it simple - although it keeps getting away on me!


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Ralph Barker said:


> I opted for heavy aluminum angle (3/8"x3"), purchased from Online Metals, and then faced it with MDF. Cutting the bit opening and slots in the aluminum was fun.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hi Ralph

I like the idea of the aluminium 'L' angle - although am slightly concerned re cutting the bit opening and slots! Did you do all that with the router?

If I didn't want to have sliding faces (not sure of the advantages, as my post to Bob above states), couldn't I just attach the MDF faces to the aluminium via recessed through bolts? Are the sliding faces required so that one can minimize the aperture around the bit?

Matthew


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Matt

If you don't have a fence that can side just add a sub fence that can..with the tee slot bit it's a easy job to make one..one long fence cut into two parts with a 10% cut and you have siding fence..that will take on the inserts.. 

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matt1710 said:


> Thanks for that info Bob - however if the face on the fence doesn't slide, then I guess a drop-in insert is the only way to go - right? Am not quite sure of the benefits of a sliding face - and am trying to keep it simple - although it keeps getting away on me!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ralph

To router out Alum. use Transmission Fluid it will keep the chips from sticking to the bit and stop the gulling of the bit and makes it easy on the bit..  eye dropper works well for that job.. or a old oil can.pump type.



========*http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=...com/products/transmission-fluids.aspx&cad=rja*





Ralph Barker said:


> I opted for heavy aluminum angle (3/8"x3"), purchased from Online Metals, and then faced it with MDF. Cutting the bit opening and slots in the aluminum was fun.
> 
> 
> 
> The aluminum angle assures that the foundation is precisely square to the table.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

I've got a fancy Linbide spiral downcut bit - I understand it's completely tungsten carbide - can that be? It's super heavy compared to any other bit the same size. It cost me US$82 and am scared to damage it! Maybe I'll use a cheaper bit for any aluminium cutting...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

Use a lower price bit for Alum.you will only take off about a 1/16" pass max.
But a Air die grinder works well with a metal cutting blade on the tool. 

I use the one below most of the time.on Alum.

http://www.mactools.com/product/tabid/120/p-318374-flex-head-cut-off-tool-kit.aspx

and this one
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-high-speed-air-cutter-47077.html

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matt1710 said:


> I've got a fancy Linbide spiral downcut bit - I understand it's completely tungsten carbide - can that be? It's super heavy compared to any other bit the same size. It cost me US$82 and am scared to damage it! Maybe I'll use a cheaper bit for any aluminium cutting...


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

matt1710 said:


> Hi Ralph
> 
> I like the idea of the aluminium 'L' angle - although am slightly concerned re cutting the bit opening and slots! Did you do all that with the router?
> 
> ...


I just dirlled the corners of the bit opening and then connected the (big) dots with my old PC PortaBand, starting at the apex of the angle. A hack saw would do the job, as well. 

Although I could have routed the slots entirely, I didn't have any lubricant (see Bob's post), so I drilled most of it and cleaned up the scallops with the router. Small increments, as Bob mentioned.

The split fence face does a couple of things. First, it provides an adjustable opening for the bit, large or small. Second, it allows you to slightly shim the outfeed side for use of the table as a horizontal jointer, should you want to.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hmm - have to get hold of some heavier 'L' angle first - all I could find at the hardware shop was 50mm x50mm x 3mm. 

Thanks for the info on the split fence - I like the idea of it, for both those reasons.


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## Boukrev (Dec 4, 2010)

here is a sample of an auction on e-bay. Item no. 330453977402. I bought the 2020 series. The series no lets you know the size. These guys have become my staple "fence" suppliers. There stuff is awesome. I have since put a extruded fence on my Radial arm. I have bought a bunch of extrusion and they ship FAST cheap and well packed. There customer service is great. Boy cannot say enough good things about them.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

here's a link, I also have many of his items.. great eBay seller.

8020 T Slot Aluminum Extrusion 15 S 3030 L x 23.5 - eBay (item 330453977402 end time Dec-19-10 11:38:33 PST)

http://shop.ebay.com/8020inc/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p4340

http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Gar...=6479546&_sid=129537225&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

http://cgi.ebay.com/8020-T-Slot-Alu...790?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ce745fb9e

=========


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## JTBUTTERY (Jun 27, 2011)

I've found Corian makes a great base fence. I clamp MDF to that to make a zero clearance jig that can be re-used or disposed, depending on its usage.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> MDF does not take on screws well, it will split easy or lift the stock, it's like cardboard in a small way..you can predrill it but it will still split or separate.. =


In my everyday working life I use large quantities of MDF with rarely a split. To achieve that you need to correctly-size pilot and countersink then use screws with a sufficiently deep thread. We have MDF-Tite screws over here (although Spax and Reisser screws work almost as well), don't you have anything similar available in the USA, Bob?

Regards

Phil


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Phil

Yes we do  I use dry wall screws most of the time BUT MDF will not give like the real wood will so I end up with a lot of stripped holes or wider stock than I want...

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Phil P said:


> In my everyday working life I use large quantities of MDF with rarely a split. To achieve that you need to correctly-size pilot and countersink then use screws with a sufficiently deep thread. We have MDF-Tite screws over here (although Spax and Reisser screws work almost as well), don't you have anything similar available in the USA, Bob?
> 
> Regards
> 
> Phil


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> I use dry wall screws most of the time BUT MDF will not give like the real wood will so I end up with a lot of stripped holes or wider stock than I want...


Hi Bob

MDF screws _aren't_ drywall screws. If they are stripping holes then I'd say that the threads aren't deep enough. The MDF screws I mentioned have a twin start, single thread main run and a different thread form to the drywall screws so they rarely strip providing the pilot is properly matched to the screw size. I've assembled quite a few MDF interior door casings with "ordinary" screws (good quality ones) and the same applies - get the pilot size right and pilot it deep enough and you won't get splitting or stripping

Regards

Phil


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Phil

I also should say I use pocket screws that come with the right size drill bit on the ends of them but still have errors with MDF stock..  made for soft wood like MDF.

I have use the high low type screws and same error with them.. 

They say a picture is worth a 1000 words how about a snapshot of the ones you have put into place and the screw you use.

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Phil P said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> MDF screws _aren't_ drywall screws. If they are stripping holes then I'd say that the threads aren't deep enough. The MDF screws I mentioned have a twin start, single thread main run and a different thread form to the drywall screws so they rarely strip providing the pilot is properly matched to the screw size. I've assembled quite a few MDF interior door casings with "ordinary" screws (good quality ones) and the same applies - get the pilot size right and pilot it deep enough and you won't get splitting or stripping
> 
> ...


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