# Oh Bummer, rain droplets on my table saw.



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

The driving rain blew across my front porch and up against the house and ran down into the garage and shop of my basement.
My work bench is under the porch and part of the garage and even-though I'm aware that this can happen I sometimes accidentally leave something in that leaky area. 
Usually I don't get much water and by the time I see it it's dried up itself.
Thankfully I only had one small area on the saw where I found the rust so I started sanding and steel wooling that area but I ended up doing the whole top again.

I waxed the surface with automotive wax but I know there is something better that you guys use. 

Could you tell me what it is so I can get some? 

Bryan


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

bryansong said:


> The driving rain blew across my front porch and up against the house and ran down into the garage and shop of my basement.
> My work bench is under the porch and part of the garage and even-though I'm aware that this can happen I sometimes accidentally leave something in that leaky area.
> Usually I don't get much water and by the time I see it it's dried up itself.
> Thankfully I only had one small area on the saw where I found the rust so I started sanding and steel wooling that area but I ended up doing the whole top again.
> ...


Bryan, 

Most auto waxes contain silicon. You DO NOT want to use anything with silicon in it. It will interfere with any finish that you try to apply if it contaminates the wood.

I use plain old Johnson's Paste Wax (Floor wax). For the rust removal, Boeshield Rust Free (Phosphoric acid). T-9 for rust prevention on tools. There are many good similar products, but these are my go-to products.

Bill


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Is this the stuff? I don't see a T9.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41bYQNpOrSL.jpg


http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61aeD9Gn7oL._SL1280_.jpg

Bryan


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> The driving rain blew across my front porch and up against the house and ran down into the garage and shop of my basement.
> My work bench is under the porch and part of the garage and even-though I'm aware that this can happen I sometimes accidentally leave something in that leaky area.
> Usually I don't get much water and by the time I see it it's dried up itself.
> Thankfully I only had one small area on the saw where I found the rust so I started sanding and steel wooling that area but I ended up doing the whole top again.
> ...


remove the wax w/ mineral spirits...
replace it with furniture past wax that does not contain silicone...
buff to harness...


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Bryan:
It's Boeshield T-9
try this link

Why Boeshield | Boeshield T-9®


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> Is this the stuff? I don't see a T9.
> 
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41bYQNpOrSL.jpg
> 
> ...


yes...


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

*Not sure yet*

Thank guys 

Stick, I'm a little wary of using the stuff you said yes to after reading reviews of where it stained their nice shiny saws. Are you sure this is the stuff or should I consider this instead?

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61kD8SIy+fL._SL1232_.jpg

Bryan


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I bought this and haven't used it yet . Almost 30 bucks after tax , probably 3 bucks in the U.S.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Rainman1,

Do you apply only this or do you use the paste wax after?

Bryan


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> Thank guys
> 
> Stick, I'm a little wary of using the stuff you said yes to after reading reviews of where it stained their nice shiny saws. Are you sure this is the stuff or should I consider this instead?
> 
> ...


what stained the saws...

Boeshield and Bostik are some really good stuff... I've used them, they work as advertised but they don't last nearly as long as the furniture wax per application... cost big bucks too..
one can lasts what????... a few weeks, a month or two tops...
one can of wax is good for at least a decade...
every tool surface I have has wax on it from chisels and planes to machine tops to portables...
my father always used it as did his father... that's a helluva track record...
the more you buff out the wax the better it works, the longer the application lasts......

furniture finishing paste wax by Johnson's, Briwax, Black Bison, etc.. they are all good as long as they do not have silicone in them... 
read the can for ingredients.. if in doubt call the CS hot line...
you will find any waxes intended for cars, boats and such will have silicone in them...
for furniture.. not likely...

I have a small 10$ car buffer that I buff out the wax w/.... they are cheap... 2$ yard sale...
wally world dollar store


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

bryansong said:


> Rainman1,
> 
> Do you apply only this or do you use the paste wax after?
> 
> Bryan


I was told to get a non abrasive pad and work it in till the rust comes off . Then apply a coat I'm assuming and rub it off . I should go read the can


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> Rainman1,
> 
> Do you apply only this or do you use the paste wax after?
> 
> Bryan


do not mix the two....
it's an invitation to a real mess...


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Ok guys, here's what I am going to do. I have ordered the paste wax and since
I already have the rust removed I am going to remove the automotive wax and 
apply a few coats of the Johnson's paste wax I ordered.

As for the rust remover I am not going to get that just yet. I'll just do a better
job of keeping my equipment out of the line of the occasional rain water.

Thanks to you all!

Bryan


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

*rust removal*

Borax
Lemon juice

1. Mix together equal parts Borax and lemon juice.
2. Apply the resulting solution to the rust by spraying or dabbing it on (if the object is large), or by submerging the object in a bath of the solution (if the object is small).
3. Allow the solution to soak in for 30 minutes. Then, rinse the object off; and dry thoroughly.
4. Repeat the process, if rust remains.
5. Use a green scrubby to loosen the rust after you have applied the solution.


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## Rostrome (Mar 18, 2015)

I just bought a can of this from Rockler for $19.99 US. I haven't used it yet.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

My go to is Autosol... (as per a similar thread last week?)
#1000 - Autosol Metal Polish - 75ml Tube
Try Lee Valley if the local automotive or tool guys don't have it. If they don't they need a smack upside the head...


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## Highland laddie (Mar 10, 2011)

Bryan
Liberon Lubricating Wax (cleans tools and machinery) protects against rust formation and keeps my cast iron tables in great condition.
I too have had the occasional wind blown rain enter my shed and any drops just sit on the waxed surface.

This is only my second post and again about wax, I need to get out more!

Gerry


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

I have been on a major rehab kick for my machines. What I have found is after using a variety of products, it seemed like the Boeshield T-9 did the best job at removing the rust. I have seen darkening in varying degrees. Scroll saw was the most, table saw very little, band saw in between, and the jointer which had the most rust was also in between. I can't help but wonder why the difference. I did read on a web site that phosphoric acid reacts to the rust and forms a different compound..don't remember the name, but that is what makes it darker. I have been lightly scrubbing with 220 grit sandpaper with the T-9. I finished up with Johnson's paste wax. I probably used a lot more paste wax than I needed to, but I didn't want to take any chances. The can of wax I have is new, and the contents are extremely soft. I am assuming that is normal for a new can. Anyway...the T-9 smells bad, but seems to work very well. 

Good luck !

Gary


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Highland laddie said:


> Bryan
> Liberon Lubricating Wax (cleans tools and machinery) protects against rust formation and keeps my cast iron tables in great condition.
> I too have had the occasional wind blown rain enter my shed and any drops just sit on the waxed surface.
> 
> ...


thought maybe you could use a link posting...
never seen the product here in the US...

Accessories : Lubricating Wax - liberon.fr


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

I use Johnson's Paste Wax also... I use CMT Tool cleaner for rust. Though I sometime use WD40 when I'm out of that. While we're on that, I use Remington Gun Oil (Teflon) on my saw's lift and bevel mechanisms. It lubes them without attracting saw dust into it. Stays cleaner and lubed longer.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

bryansong said:


> Ok guys, here's what I am going to do. I have ordered the paste wax and since
> I already have the rust removed I am going to remove the automotive wax and
> apply a few coats of the Johnson's paste wax I ordered.
> 
> ...


I missed the part of how you removed the rust ? 

I just tried my spray and it's kinda like that silicone stuff you use on fosball tables , at least that's what it reminds me of . Did squat to remove the rust though . Guess I should have applied it when I first bought the saw


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

RainMan1 said:


> I missed the part of how you removed the rust ?
> 
> I just tried my spray and it's kinda like that silicone stuff you use on fosball tables , at least that's what it reminds me of . Did squat to remove the rust though . Guess I should have applied it when I first bought the saw


I sanded it off with a block and sand paper using WD40 as a lubricate, then I use some 0000 steel wool.
I'm still waiting for my paste wax to show up though I do expect it today. I'm not sure when I am going to strip off the automotive wax and reapply the new wax but when I do I think I sand it some more first.

Bryan


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

if you sand... sand after stripping the automotive wax...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

bryansong said:


> I sanded it off with a block and sand paper using WD40 as a lubricate, then I use some 0000 steel wool.
> I'm still waiting for my paste wax to show up though I do expect it today. I'm not sure when I am going to strip off the automotive wax and reapply the new wax but when I do I think I sand it some more first.
> 
> Bryan


Thanks . 
Btw I tried that spray that I posted and what an IMPROVEMENT ! 
I'm kicking myself for not buying that immediately . It makes it slippery plus protects it also I was told . 
It's like an air hockey game without the need of air . Never realized what a better experience pushing wood on a table could be


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

bryansong said:


> I sanded it off with a block and sand paper using WD40 as a lubricate, then I use some 0000 steel wool.
> I'm still waiting for my paste wax to show up though I do expect it today. I'm not sure when I am going to strip off the automotive wax and reapply the new wax but when I do I think I sand it some more first.
> 
> Bryan


I was told not to use anything abrasive . Are you happy with the end result?

I was thinking about using emery cloth , like 400 grit and wet sand it in the direction the wood goes . I think I have some borax that Stick mentioned . I bought it years ago to kill ants . 
Anyway I may try that with the lemon juice first


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

RainMan1 said:


> I was told not to use anything abrasive . Are you happy with the end result?


What was the reason you were given on not using the abrasive? I doubt I've sanded it down to the point of making the surface uneven.

I went trough this once before after the saw had sat a while with stuff piled up on it. I was looking pretty rough so I started sanding.
I didn't use a coarse grit paper, I think I used 180 then 400 then the steel wool and it turned out nice and shiny. Where I made my mistake was using the automotive wax. 

After waxing the surface was nice and smooth as well as the lumber slid right nice across it.

Note: I sanded in the direction of front to back, in the direction the wood would travel across the table.

And one more thing, today I got my order of Johnson's paste wax and I guess I messed up and ordered 2 cans by mistake, that ought to last me a while. I checked my order and sure enough I had added the wax to the cart twice.

Oh well, maybe I'll find something else to wax.

Bryan


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

bryansong said:


> Oh well, maybe I'll find something else to wax.
> 
> Bryan


Well is your wife into hairless chests?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Now _that's_ funny! lol
Whoa...what do you know about waxing hair removal, Rick?!!! *shock*


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> Oh well, maybe I'll find something else to wax.
> 
> Bryan


little did we know...
This is the product that gave S.C. Johnson & Son its start. They originated as a parquet flooring company in 1886 and first developed their paste wax as a formula for caring for their floors....

The wax smells great, like wax - no synthetic lemony/citrus smell. It cleans while providing a hard, lustrous finish to wood, metal, plastics, cork, vinyl, and sealed leather. You use just a little paste and spread it over surfaces then buff, which takes a lot of work*. But the outcome is worth it, with a depth of finish and a protective coat that lasts longer than anything out of a spray bottle.....*

don't forget..
every metal surface in the shop... wait till use your newly waxed planes...
lubricant on wood to wood slides...
hinge pins...

there is an el-cheapo wally world car buffer/polisher in your future.. the smaller the diameter the better... store the buffer pad in the can...
the more you buff it.. the harder it becomes the better it works...

What was the reason you were given on not using the abrasive? 
*Hasn't got one... myth...
*
I doubt I've sanded it down to the point of making the surface uneven....
*3M non-woven pads are the way to go...
see the PDF...*

I went trough this once before after the saw had sat a while with stuff piled up on it. I was looking pretty rough so I started sanding.
I didn't use a coarse grit paper, I think I used 180 then 400 then the steel wool and it turned out nice and shiny. Where I made my mistake was using the automotive wax.

After waxing the surface was nice and smooth as well as the lumber slid right nice across it.

Note: I sanded in the direction of front to back, in the direction the wood would travel across the table.
*don't fret the small stuff...*

And one more thing, today I got my order of Johnson's paste wax and I guess I messed up and ordered 2 cans by mistake, that ought to last me a while. I checked my order and sure enough I had added the wax to the cart twice.
*one for the house...
one for the shop...*

Oh well, maybe I'll find something else to wax.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

RainMan1 said:


> Well is your wife into hairless chests?


I bet she would be.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Thanks Stick, once again you've come through for me. I appreciate all that you do.
I printed that data out.

Bryan


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

I couldn't find any Johnsons anywhere around here! It used to be everywhere in the old days. So I used Minwax paste wax. Another use is waxing wooden drawers, they work great after waxing.


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