# Is a bandsaw necessary.



## Raewyn (Jun 16, 2012)

Hi all, I have a question. I have just about finished building my router table and will be starting my workbench soon and I'm wondering about the need to have a bandsaw. I currently have a scroll saw but was wondering how much use you people have of a bandsaw. A lot of youtube videos I watch I see people using them all the time. Could some of you tell me if it is something I need to add to my wood work shop.

Cheers
Raewyn


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

As you said, some people couldn't work without theirs, while others never own one and manage just fine. I think part of the problem has been setup. Just a few weeks ago a thread on the forum about how to set one up without blade drift has changed things. I never used mine that much because of the drift/inaccuracy problem but that is going to change. If you look at youtube and search for Alex Snodgrass from Carter bandsaw products and watch the 1/2hr+ video you may have a new perspective on bandsaws. What he was doing in the video was nothing short of amazing.


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## Raewyn (Jun 16, 2012)

Thanks Charles, I'll look up that video. It's always good to see how much more you can achieve with the right tools.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I remember seeing an article in a popular magazine a few years ago on selecting the top 10 tools for a new workshop. I have been trying to locate that article for some time. It may have been a UK magazine.

The writer recommended a band saw before a table saw........

You will need a good saw of some description, band saw, table saw, circular saw, jig saw.....

Some people can't do without their table saw and some people use a combination of circular saw and band saw...


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

A lot depends on what you are interested in making. My focus is on difficult "quality" furniture like chairs. A band saw is essential for this type of work. Cutting long curves for chair legs or round table tops as examples. A band saw is also useful for mortise and tenon work. It is not a substitute for a table saw however because the quality of cut is just not the same.
A band saw is also "safer" than a table saw and can be used where a table saw cut might be risky.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Interesting comment about safety Dennis, I consider the bandsaw to be very slightly more dangerous, but both are manageable. 
For cutting out things like cabinet parts, nothing beats the repeatabilility of a table saw and fence. You can make tenons and bridle joints with both. Table saws are lousy at cutting curves and don't seem to do well at making veneer.


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## Raewyn (Jun 16, 2012)

denniswoody said:


> A lot depends on what you are interested in making. My focus is on difficult "quality" furniture like chairs. A band saw is essential for this type of work. Cutting long curves for chair legs or round table tops as examples. A band saw is also useful for mortise and tenon work. It is not a substitute for a table saw however because the quality of cut is just not the same.
> A band saw is also "safer" than a table saw and can be used where a table saw cut might be risky.


I had wondered about the use for making tenons with the bandsaw, but all the youtube videos I'd seen on mortise and tenon work were either done by hand or by using fancy expensive looking jigs. I plan on making a new kitchen and I want all my door and draw fronts to be panel doors, so I'll be making loads of mortise and tenon joins. After that, who knows, my husband has already got about two years worth of projects for me to do.


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## Raewyn (Jun 16, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Interesting comment about safety Dennis, I consider the bandsaw to be very slightly more dangerous, but both are manageable.
> For cutting out things like cabinet parts, nothing beats the repeatabilility of a table saw and fence. You can make tenons and bridle joints with both. Table saws are lousy at cutting curves and don't seem to do well at making veneer.


The workbench I want to make has a trestle base and the foot of the trestle is curved. I don't think my scroll saw will do such a good of it, the stock is quite thick. I think a bandsaw will soon be added to my work shop. Now I just have to figure out how much to spend on one. Is there anything I should consider before choosing, or are they pretty much of a muchness?


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## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

I have a scroll saw, no band saw YET. Raewyn, the problems with the scrollsaw are:
1. Throat depth 16"-20" limits the length of your cut as your work piece heads directly into the throat. On the band saw the cut is perpendicular to that on the SS.
2. The scrollsaw is not a very powerful motor. Cutting thick workpieces (1.5" or so) is difficult.
For tight curves on thinner wood you can't beat the scrollsaw, but a band saw is the master for long cuts or thick wood.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Avoid the 3 wheel design according to what I've been told. Too much problem with tracking the blade. Size depends on what you want to do with it. Smaller wheels is better for cutting curves. Larger is better for things like resawing and cutting veneer. 14" is probably a good in between.


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

I have been wanting a bandsaw for a long time but space has been holding me back,( maybe move to new shed will remedy that) I use scroll saw for alot of cuts and a good jigsaw is a must....scroll saw will cut 1 1/2" stock just need a stiff blade for long cuts such as arm rest and legs for chairs and benches I have been making turning the scoll saw blade around will usually get the distance Ya need.... I still would like to have a bandsaw even with that all being said


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## WayneMahler (May 17, 2012)

Raewyn I own both a scroll saw and band saw. They both have definitive purposes. If you are going to shop for a band saw I would suggest setting a price you can afford, and then look at them. It also depends on what you want to accomplish with it. If you just slicing wood with curves or if you plan on re-sawing lumber. Another big thing with a band saw is which blade you choose. The video from Alex Snodgrass if great, it helped me straighten out problemsd I was having. I just finished a new work bench and it was all mortise and tenon joints, with the exception of the stretchers, they were large dove tails. I used a band saw for the dovetails, the M&T joints were worked into the design but I do own a delta tenon jig and the mortises where form when I did the glues and cleaned up by hand and chisel. I hope this helps, there are free plans out there to build the jigs you need . But once again, it takes time top research them then build them. Best of luck, keep everyone posted on your progress.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

In some areas of woodworking, the bandsaw is the cornerstone, I'm thinking of boatbuilding/repairing. Building light planes is another one.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Very shortly after my new Grizzly band saw arrived, my neighbor who is an experienced wood worker helped me set it up. When he was helping me he told me to just throw the fence away that came with it. He went on to say that because of blade drift, the fence would be useless and tried to tell me how to resaw wood with a jig. I watched a couple of videos on You Tube that pretty much confirmed what my friend ahd told me. About time, the issue of drift came up this forum and somebody posted the link to the Snodgrass video. After watching it I did what was shown in the video, and installed the fence on the saw. The saw is working like a dream now, and I have been able to resaw using the fence and to make nice straight cuts when needed. 

Of course what you plan to do in your shop will determine what you need, but for me, I wouldn't be without mine now, even though it was the last machine that I purchased for my shop. I always point out to folks wrestling with the decision to not forget, "I sure would like to have a bandsaw" factor when making a decision, it does play a large roll in making the decsion. Let us know what you decide and how it goes.

Jerry
Colorado City, TX


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> The writer recommended a band saw before a table saw........


I will opt for a table saw before a bandsaw any day of the week. My grandfather was considered a master carpenter. He owned a nice large table saw, and I think that was the only power tool he owned, except for maybe a power hand drill.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Made with a band saw with edges routed.

The floor of the cradle is 5" wide, 3/16" thick pine. Band saw did the resaw from an ordinary section of pine shelving.

Drill press, router and band saw.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

I've always "wanted" a bandsaw since I was a kid (now 52yo). Money and space. Maybe someday. Want = yes. Required for wanted I've done so far, no.


Raewyn said:


> I had wondered about the use for making tenons with the bandsaw, but all the youtube videos I'd seen on mortise and tenon work were either done by hand or by using fancy expensive looking jigs. I plan on making a new kitchen and I want all my door and draw fronts to be panel doors, so I'll be making loads of mortise and tenon joins. After that, who knows, my husband has already got about two years worth of projects for me to do.


You can also do mortise/tenon with router, miter or table saw/drill (or drill press), by hand, etc. Kitchen panel doors (raised, shaker, etc.) are usually a rail/stile glue joiunt and not usually mortise/tenon until you go higher end, which then I build with router or miter saw and a drill press. Sort of like trim of window casings and such... Lower end is a mitered glue-joint, higher end I miter and spline joint or mortise/tenon joints. I guess if I had a bandsaw that "might" be different how I do those...


Raewyn said:


> The workbench I want to make has a trestle base and the foot of the trestle is curved. I don't think my scroll saw will do such a good of it, the stock is quite thick. I think a bandsaw will soon be added to my work shop. Now I just have to figure out how much to spend on one. Is there anything I should consider before choosing, or are they pretty much of a muchness?


So I can imagine/picture the trestle as being mortise/tenon in joints for that. Rounded foot? As decorative to the leg and the line of support being a straight line perpendicular to the floor right? Classical workbench design has usually has benches with up to 6x6 and 8x8 legs, straight to the floor so that there is no flex or give at all. The outside edge of the leg is usually straight and flush with the top so that you can use that surface as extensions to your workspace... Since I'm interested and curious about workbench designs, I'd love to see the one you're describing.

Yes, I've done without (professionally and as a hobbiest) and having been without, just did things differently. I have used them in the past. I can think of many things I do that I'd do differently if I had one... A band saw is one of those things I'd like to collect for retirement.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

rwl7532 said:


> Made with a band saw with edges routed.
> 
> The floor of the cradle is 5" wide, 3/16" thick pine. Band saw did the resaw from an ordinary section of pine shelving.
> 
> Drill press, router and band saw.


Very nice work! 

You know we are neighbors? (almost) I live in the South Sound.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Raewyn said:


> I had wondered about the use for making tenons with the bandsaw, but all the youtube videos I'd seen on mortise and tenon work were either done by hand or by using fancy expensive looking jigs. I plan on making a new kitchen and I want all my door and draw fronts to be panel doors, so I'll be making loads of mortise and tenon joins. After that, who knows, my husband has already got about two years worth of projects for me to do.


 To make the doors you should go with a rail and style router bit instead of trying to make mortise and tenons. Much simpler and they will look better. You can get various profiles for the edges. For a sample take a look at the MLCS web site. For the frame of the cabinets get a pocket hole jig instead of mortice and tenons again they will look better and can be done in minutes instead of hours. As far as the band saw get at least a 1 hp 14", for the few extra dollars even if you don't need the power now it will give you options in the future. If you have a Craigs list near you watch the tool section they are always coming up.


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## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

Alex' you tube video is great, now I just need a bandsaw!


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

MAFoElffen said:


> Very nice work!
> 
> You know we are neighbors? (almost) I live in the South Sound.


Thanks, Mike.

I noted your locale!!


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Interesting comment about safety Dennis, I consider the bandsaw to be very slightly more dangerous, but both are manageable.
> For cutting out things like cabinet parts, nothing beats the repeatabilility of a table saw and fence. You can make tenons and bridle joints with both. Table saws are lousy at cutting curves and don't seem to do well at making veneer.


Certainly any saw blade moving at speed is dangerous. By "safer" I was thinking of kick-back risk and overall better control of the wood.


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

Raewyn said:


> The workbench I want to make has a trestle base and the foot of the trestle is curved. I don't think my scroll saw will do such a good of it, the stock is quite thick. I think a bandsaw will soon be added to my work shop. Now I just have to figure out how much to spend on one. Is there anything I should consider before choosing, or are they pretty much of a muchness?


Firstly scroll saws and band saws are totally different animals. Secondly band saws are not at all "of a muchness". There are many variables such as size, power, vibration, etc.I recommend you start doing some research and then come back with specific questions based on what you see as your needs. Then members can focus on your specific issues.


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## Raewyn (Jun 16, 2012)

Thanks Mike,

The workbench I'm going to make is from Tauntons fine woodworking, and the plan is called 'workbench 30 years in the making'. I'm sorry I don't have a picture of it on my computer to show, but most of the construction is mortise and tenon.


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## russ franken (Nov 29, 2009)

I`ve always wanted one. Finally bought a used one and fixed it up, watched the Snoddgrass video for tune up. What a difference.Could you do without? Yes. Would I. No. Makes my life much easier.


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## Raewyn (Jun 16, 2012)

Thanks for all the information everyone. I'm glad someone mentioned the 1hp motor for the bandsaw, made me rethink what I was going to get. And also about the kitchen doors, definitely rail and stile. Goes to show how much I have to learn.
Thanks heaps everyone.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

rwl7532 said:


> Made with a band saw with edges routed.
> 
> The floor of the cradle is 5" wide, 3/16" thick pine. Band saw did the resaw from an ordinary section of pine shelving.
> 
> Drill press, router and band saw.


That is one beautiful cradle Ralph.


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## Fishinbo (Jun 11, 2012)

I have seen a couple of Alex Snodgrass videos. Truly, it was amazing and helpful. I have a band saw and could not imagine not having one. I use it for my resawing. The gentlemen are right. Depending on what you need it for. I am sure by now, you already have an informed decision regarding the matter. Best of luck.


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## bosox (Jun 12, 2012)

russfranken said:


> I`ve always wanted one. Finally bought a used one and fixed it up, watched the Snoddgrass video for tune up. What a difference.Could you do without? Yes. Would I. No. Makes my life much easier.


I get replacement parts for my used band saw machine at bandsawparts.com. May this serve as a reference for you in fixing your saw.


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## Ironman50 (Jun 5, 2012)

Same question I had asked myself. I am now looking for a band saw machine which will exactly meet my standards. I figured that a band saw should be my must-have. It is versatile and less dangerous.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Raewyn said:


> Thanks Mike,
> 
> The workbench I'm going to make is from Tauntons fine woodworking, and the plan is called 'workbench 30 years in the making'. I'm sorry I don't have a picture of it on my computer to show, but most of the construction is mortise and tenon.


The foot profile of the bench she is trying to build is attached. I circled in red.


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## Raewyn (Jun 16, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> The foot profile of the bench she is trying to build is attached. I circled in red.


Yes, that's the workbench I'm attempting. I wonder why they only left a small bit front and back that sits flat on the ground, maybe if the floor isn't flat then it wont wobble. Anyway, I am going to get a bandsaw, it's been a bit of a mission finding one that doesn't cost over a thousand dollars. I'm getting a 1hp 305mm. I have to wait about three weeks for one to get here though cause they don't have any in stock. I want to thank everyone for their comments and that Alex Snodgrass video has been awesome. Will watch it over and over once my bandsaw arrives and make sure I set it up properly.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Likely the unevenness of any floor will cause the bench to wobble. You will only have to shim one 'foot' to stabilize it.
What brand and model number are you getting?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Raewyn,

I have a Hafco BP-305 band saw but have not used it often enough to make a comment or review.

Let us know what brand you are getting and how well it performs.

Also, what blades you decide on.

PS I was going to show you a copy of my manual, but had two errors trying to upload. Says i need a security token??????/What the.......


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## Fabitfast (Jun 14, 2012)

I have this Trajan 150 band saw and it works great! It sounds so smooth and barely makes some noise. I get my blades online from sawblade.com. Their blades are pretty good enough and are less expensive than other brands.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Trojan Band Saw | Fine Woodworking Knots

==


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## Fabitfast (Jun 14, 2012)

I am not talking about a Trojan band saw. It is a Trajan Band saw. See link: Trajan-150 Utility Horizontal Band Saws and Vertical Bandsaw Machines • TrajanSaw.com


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## Raewyn (Jun 16, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Raewyn,
> 
> I have a Hafco BP-305 band saw but have not used it often enough to make a comment or review.
> 
> ...


The bandsaw I'm getting is also a Hafco Woodmaster BP305. The blades they have in stock for it are 3tpi and 6tpi and also a 6tpi narrow. That's all they have for that model. I guess the more teeth per inch the finer the cutting.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Raewyn said:


> I guess the more teeth per inch the finer the cutting.


Hi Raewyn

Yes and no. The quality of cut is also down to the style and set of the blade; the fastest cutting blades have hook tooth formats with a lot of side set but are quite coarse, skip tooth blades generally reasonably fast cutting blades with less side set - both these types are coarse cutters - and standard set blades have more teeth and even less side set. A 3tpi blade should handle stock up to 3 or 4in, a 6tpi one may start to clog above 2in because the gullets aren't big enough to remove the waste fast enough, whilst 10tpi to 14tpi blades are only realy useable for thin plywoods and the like. Whatever else you do take the manufacturers recommendation on blades with a pinch of salt, if they say the biggest blade the machine can handle is 3/4in, assume that it's actually 5/8in or 1/2in, that way you'll be able to tension it sufficiently. I'd also search out a good saw doctor and source your blades from there - in all probability it'll cost less and the blades will be better quality than the OEM ones. The other nice thing about using a saw doctor is that they can supply blades in widths/tooth styles/tpi that the manufacturer can't or won't

Regards

Phil


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Phil P said:


> Hi Raewyn
> 
> Yes and no. The quality of cut is also down to the style and set of the blade; the fastest cutting blades have hook tooth formats with a lot of side set but are quite coarse, skip tooth blades generally reasonably fast cutting blades with less side set - both these types are coarse cutters - and standard set blades have more teeth and even less side set. A 3tpi blade should handle stock up to 3 or 4in, a 6tpi one may start to clog above 2in because the gullets aren't big enough to remove the waste fast enough, whilst 10tpi to 14tpi blades are only realy useable for thin plywoods and the like. Whatever else you do take the manufacturers recommendation on blades with a pinch of salt, if they say the biggest blade the machine can handle is 3/4in, assume that it's actually 5/8in or 1/2in, that way you'll be able to tension it sufficiently. I'd also search out a good saw doctor and source your blades from there - in all probability it'll cost less and the blades will be better quality than the OEM ones. The other nice thing about using a saw doctor is that they can supply blades in widths/tooth styles/tpi that the manufacturer can't or won't
> 
> ...



Phil, when I need to replace my existing blades (I have two spares) , I will be buying from one of the US online stores.

My local supplier, Henry Brothers, only sell you what stock they have on hand.

If you mention "hook tooth , skip tooth' , they look at you as if you have two heads and you don't have a clue what you are talking about. My hard wood supplier agrees with my comments.

I have 1/2" 3tpi on the saw at the moment.


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## L Town Graphics (May 24, 2012)

For me personally it's a must. As a sign maker it saves me so much time over cutting with a jigsaw then spending 30min to an hour sanding. With a band saw I can pretty much cutout a sign and with minimal sanding have it ready to be edge routed. As we all know in the business world time is $. The less time equals more profit per hour.


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## Raewyn (Jun 16, 2012)

Thanks Phil and James for the information about the blades, I will probably end up doing what James is and source them from the US. There is so little choice here when it comes to woodworking tools and I'd no doubt get the same response as James did when it comes to asking for a specific blade.


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## Fabitfast (Jun 14, 2012)

This is always my online source for blades: BandSaw Blades Online - Custom Welded Band Saw Blades. When I have problems with the type and the no. of teeth per set required for the material I want to cut, I ask their sales rep for advice. Their recommendations always work for me.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Fabitfast said:


> I am not talking about a Trojan band saw. It is a Trajan Band saw. See link: Trajan-150 Utility Horizontal Band Saws and Vertical Bandsaw Machines • TrajanSaw.com


James (Fabitfast)-
Curious... I've used those types of saws in steel fabrication. Since your "Trajan 150" is a horizontal metal cut-off band saw with the mechanical cut like that of a power hacksaw (an arm that lowers the cutting surface), how do use your's in woodworking?*

* - That's what the OP's use will be, so that is what you are recommending for that use?


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> My local supplier, Henry Brothers, only sell you what stock they have on hand.
> 
> If you mention "hook tooth , skip tooth' , they look at you as if you have two heads and you don't have a clue what you are talking about.


Hi James

I'm obviously very lucky. I have a firm less than ten miles down the road who'll make me up anything I want by way of bandsaw blades - any guage, many tooth forms, different hook angles, you name it. They are a proper saw doctoring firm. Surely in NZ Raewyn will be able to find such a firm? After all there's supposed to be a massive timber industry there. If all else fails there's always Yellow Pages/Golden Guides

Regards

Phil


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## Raewyn (Jun 16, 2012)

Fabitfast said:


> This is always my online source for blades: BandSaw Blades Online - Custom Welded Band Saw Blades. When I have problems with the type and the no. of teeth per set required for the material I want to cut, I ask their sales rep for advice. Their recommendations always work for me.


Hi James,
Thanks for that advice, since I'm new to this and never had a bandsaw before it will be invaluable to have someone tell me what kind of blades I need, instead of guessing and learning the hard way.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Phil P said:


> Hi James
> 
> I'm obviously very lucky. I have a firm less than ten miles down the road who'll make me up anything I want by way of bandsaw blades - any guage, many tooth forms, different hook angles, you name it. They are a proper saw doctoring firm. Surely in NZ Raewyn will be able to find such a firm? After all there's supposed to be a massive timber industry there. If all else fails there's always Yellow Pages/Golden Guides
> 
> ...


Hi Phil,

Unfortunately, Henry Bros. is the only large saw doctoring firm around Sydney and get a good rap on the other wood working forum.

I guess that don't believe the 'small guy' is worth the effort. I have been to their workshop and have been awed by the size of some of the band saw and circular saw blades they have been working on 

Band saw blades 6" wide and circular saw up to 10 ft.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> Band saw blades 6" wide and circular saw up to 10 ft.


Hi James

Sounds pretty much like Harrisons where I go. They have automated blade makers which pick out the appropriate cassette of saw material, cut to length, weld and grind all without human operators being present (hundreds of blades a week done that way overnight and unattended). But they also employ some human saw doctors so that you want a particular tooth profile, or gullet type they can grind it for you, as well as give you more or less set. Really professional, but obviously megabucks in investment (as are their CNC circular saw blade grinders which can actually "read" all the grind angles automatically and will even reject blades with broken teeth or where there is too little carbide - once again they can and will grind "specials" to order, although i think they only go up to a paltry 36in)

Regards

Phil


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## steamfab (Jun 22, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> James (Fabitfast)-
> Curious... I've used those types of saws in steel fabrication. Since your "Trajan 150" is a horizontal metal cut-off band saw with the mechanical cut like that of a power hacksaw (an arm that lowers the cutting surface), how do use your's in woodworking?*
> 
> * - That's what the OP's use will be, so that is what you are recommending for that use?


Good thing you noticed. I think I posted in the wrong thread. My Trajan 150 is not used in woodworking but in metal cutting or steel fabrication. I have a Grizzly for my woodwork. Thanks for the heads up!


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## steamfab (Jun 22, 2012)

Raewyn said:


> Hi James,
> Thanks for that advice, since I'm new to this and never had a bandsaw before it will be invaluable to have someone tell me what kind of blades I need, instead of guessing and learning the hard way.


I did the same when I started woodworking. I asked advice from forum members on what type of blade, the tpi, and proper method of cutting pieces of wood. Good thing I came across that site and made them my reference.


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## steamfab (Jun 22, 2012)

This is James(Fabitfast)

..I cant access my account. I am using my wife's account (steamfab).


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