# So, what's the best way to assemble this thing?



## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

Hey! So this is my first woodworking project. It's a DVD shelf. I'm finished all of my cuts and routing, so I just have to sand, then assemble. Here's my issue...

I only have 2 bar clamps. Actually I only have 2 Pony 3/4" clamps...still have to get the bars. 

The stand is 57 1/4" tall and 40" wide.

What's the best way to assemble this? The first picture shows the top and bottom where I have a 1/4" dado for the sides to be inserted. The sides also have 1/4" dados for the shelves as in pic 2. Pic 3 shows the rabbet for the back. Pic 4 is a shelf that I 'fixed'. My guide slipped while I was trimming the shelf, so I glued a piece of wood on and flush trimmed it. It's on the back, so I'm not worried about the gap...just glad I could fix it.

I noticed the side pieces are bowed a little...so I'm thinking that maybe I should put together the middle shelf first, wait for the glue to dry....then start assembling the sides to the top. Should I do one side at a time since I only have 2 clamps(One clamp on the top and one on the bottom?). Or should I get the 'carcass' glued together, then worry about the shelves and clamp out the bow?

Any help is appreciated. I'm a total noob and already went over my tool budget so be nice


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

Edit:: Pic 3 above is the shelves and kick plate


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Put the table saw fence to the middle, clamp a 2x4 to the outside of the extension wing perpendicular to the fence. Glue the dados and use the fence and 2x4 to clamp them together. Put plastic sheet down to keep the glue off the TS surface.

Next, get more clamps. You never have too many.


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

Oh, I don't have a table saw


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Don't know where you're from but there must be a place there to pick up a few clamps and do it the best way to show off the excellent job you've done so far. You can never have too many clamps. 

Looks to me you are in the garage, making sure all is square and such, glue it all up and, keeping things square, park your car on it!!---just kidding, but get a couple heavy boxes you can put on it. Just keep the ends perpendicular to the rest and it should end up square. If you try it and it doesn't work just tell folks some idiot on the form is to blame!! BTW I want to say your work up to this point is very well done, preserve it!!


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

Thanks for the compliments. This is my first time using a router(purchases a Hitachi M12VC Fixed/Plunge combo). Unfortunately I'm stuck with the circular saw for rips and cross cuts for now. But as long as I take my time it's ok. 

I really hate my circular saw though. The motor is so low that I can't clamp any guide on that side. So I have to use the other side of the base which is really narrow. Tough to keep it level when ripping edges. 

Anyways, it's been a great learning experience so far. I learned about tearout, how not to put your face where the router is shooting sawdust, and how to properly clamp a guide for the saw, haha. But I got to use a few router bits and I did a lot of test pieces before settling on the trim(the wife pocked that one). I was going to do a roman ogee but my bit os too small and it didn't look right. 

I also stupidly made it a bit too wide for the space it's going in. I'm contemplating cutting 3/4" off of each side of the base and top. I mispoke earlier. It's a total of 45" wide, with 2" overhang for the top and bottom all the way around. I'm just scared of totally messing it up now that I'm almost dine.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Been there done that, Ben... Now is the time to carefully think it all through.. draw a few sketches if it helps. You know, the old "measure twice, cut once" thing


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

I thought it was 'cut twice' so you get to use your tools more. HAHA


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Ben...

do you have any left over 1x's that are at least as wide as you unit?


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

Hey! Yes I do have some 1xs. I realized I will be able to use one clamp on each side and just put some boards/2x4s on the top and bottom to equalize the pressure.

I think I'm going assemble the middle 1 or 2 shelves and sides, before putting the top and bottom on. For some reason I just feel like I am going to bow the crap out of it if I try to put the top/bottom together with no shelves holding the sides in place.

Anyway..progress so far...I'm sanding. Almost done with 100 grit. Then I'll move on to 150, then 220. I've decided to stain it with Ebony stain... I will probably use the Minwax pretreat on it too.

Why didn't someone tell me that using a sanding block would make sanding easier and more efficient? Why did someone tell me that good dust extraction would make sanding easier and more efficient? O wait, everyone did, but I was too dumb to realize it until i sanded a few boards 

EDIT:: I did end up cutting 3/4" off of each side of the top and bottom and re-routed. So now it fits nice and snug where I wanted it to go!


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

It's assembled!!! Everything except the plywood back. Need to get a 1/4" sheet of I guess birch. I've decided to stain this with something like 'gunstock' from minwax. I was going to paint it black, but I like it so much I want to show off the wood 

It was a hassle assembling with only 2 clamps and the tiny space I have, but it's done. I did end up bowing the top a little bit by clamping down a little too hard, but oh well, it adds character hahah.

Everything is dado'd and glued except the little kick plate at the bottom...thats pocket holed/screwed and glued to the sides and bottom.

Thanks for everyone's help so far!


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## tdublyou (Jan 8, 2010)

Ben,
Very nicely done.
If I can remember back that far, I don't think my first project turned out half as well as yours did. Congratulations and keep up the fine work.


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

Thanks Tim.

There were definitely some moments where I felt really stupid, haha. A couple of the shelves have some nice router tearouts, but I put that in the back so you can't see it . Also, when I was putting in one of the shelves, I was hitting it with my mallet, and I didn't realize that the side of the self was resting on one of my bar clamps!!! so there is a nice dent on the right side. Oh well, like I said...it adds character


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

As I learn (painfully) on each project, part of skill-building is learning to hide your mistakes... or make them features!


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## SteveMO (Apr 22, 2010)

Ben,
How did you like the performance of the Hitachi M12VC Fixed/Plunge combo? I have one on order and am interested how the job went using it. Any info or tips appreciated. Good looking shelf unit.


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

SteveMO, I loved the router. I only used the fixed base for it so I can't comment on the plunge base. But it performed quite well. I had no problems with getting bits stuck or anything like that. The motor was plenty powerful for the soft pine. I did all my cuts at full depth without any issues, didn't have to make multiple passes.

I had some tearout on a couple pieces but it was my fault...moving to fast with the router. But it was great making the dados and decorative edge. I practiced a bunch on some scrap wood with different bits also.

Next I plan on making a table to mount the router too and I will use the plunge base for free hand work.

I also got this bit set if you are looking for one: Amazon.com: MLCS 8377 Router Bit Set with Carbide tipped, 1/2-Inch Shank, 15-Piece: Industrial & Scientific


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Ben.. ya done good! as long as it don't explode.. well, ya just didn't bend it far enough.
whats a lil bow between friends eh..

are you planning on paint or stain?


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## SteveMO (Apr 22, 2010)

That's the set I had my eye on to start. I'll get the 1/2" shank set as I have 1/4" bits for my laminate trimmer. I hope it gets here soon as I have a lot of projects to start and finish. Thanks for the headsup.
Steve


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

I think I'm gonna stain it. I was originally planning to paint just because I expected it to look like crap. But the joints look clean and I want to show it off. I was think of a darker stain though...something like the Gunstock from minwax. Everything else in the room is black except the couch(steel blue) and the walls(peach)...and the white ceiling


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

sounds like a plan... Nice to see you're pleased with how she turned out. Always a good feeling when a project comes together nicely..

congrats!!!!!


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

Hey everyone, I have a quick question regarding staining.

I plan to pre-treat the pine with minwax's pre-stain stuff. But, I'm wondering if I should use a gel stain. My concern is the vertical pieces. How do you make sure that the vertical pieces stain as dark as the horizontal pieces?


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

Scratch that, I'm not going to use a gel stain.

Another question though... What's the best way to secure this to a wall? I have a 5 month old that I'm sure will love to climb this soon.

I'm debating putting a 1xSomething under the mantle that I could put a few screws through. Either that or a few L brackets. The thing is...if I want to be able to fit DVDs there I can only go down 3/4" with the 1x so..... I dont know


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Ben..


is it a studded wall behind where you're planning on placing the unit?


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

Yes there are studs. Pretty sure they're 16" apart but I haven't measured so ya never know.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ben

Use a French hanger,that way you can hang it anywhere on the wall it needs to be..

A very easy hanger to make, 1/4" to 3/4" thick..  and it will support a 5 year old easy.. 

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silver8ack said:


> Scratch that, I'm not going to use a gel stain.
> 
> Another question though... What's the best way to secure this to a wall? I have a 5 month old that I'm sure will love to climb this soon.
> 
> I'm debating putting a 1xSomething under the mantle that I could put a few screws through. Either that or a few L brackets. The thing is...if I want to be able to fit DVDs there I can only go down 3/4" with the 1x so..... I dont know


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Search Google for french cleats & you will see many examples.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

silver8ack said:


> It's assembled!!! Everything except the plywood back. Need to get a 1/4" sheet of I guess birch. I've decided to stain this with something like 'gunstock' from minwax. I was going to paint it black, but I like it so much I want to show off the wood
> 
> It was a hassle assembling with only 2 clamps and the tiny space I have, but it's done. I did end up bowing the top a little bit by clamping down a little too hard, but oh well, it adds character hahah.
> 
> ...



Ben 

That is a very nice result considering your list of tools and clamps.

You obviously took your time and made sure that it all went together cleanly.

James


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

Thank you James! It definitely took a lot of 'thinking' before I did anything LOL.

Bob, the French Cleat looks like a great idea. I just have to make sure I can do it and still fit a dvd case there. I'm not sure if I allowed enough room.

Thanks!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ben

A 1/8" thick stock will work,it's the angle you cut on the hanger...


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silver8ack said:


> Thank you James! It definitely took a lot of 'thinking' before I did anything LOL.
> 
> Bob, the French Cleat looks like a great idea. I just have to make sure I can do it and still fit a dvd case there. I'm not sure if I allowed enough room.
> 
> Thanks!!


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## silver8ack (Mar 30, 2010)

Ok, I'll have to think about it. My only 'hang ups' are that this piece will rest on the floor...a carpeted floor.

If I use the french cleat to secure it to the wall, and I start loading stuff onto the shelf, the carpet will compress and .... o wait, no it won't because the cleat will bear the weight.

Hmm...ok maybe I'll give this a shot. I would just like to make sure that the cleat isn't initially bearing much weight, just stopping it from falling forward, know what I mean?

So I can use 1/8" stock...ok. Now I just have to figure out how to put on the plywood back and incorporate the cleat as well.

Man, I'm really doing it all on my first woodworking project, dados, stopped dados, 'decorative' routing, and now french cleats, haha.

EDIT:: O wait I'm a dope. I could just attach the cleat to the carcass sides, then I won't lose any shelf space...I have to account for the baseboard along the wall too, so it won't be completely flush against the wall...unless I remove that...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ben

Once the cleat is glue on the back it's not coming free, it may stick out by 1/8" but that's a good thing, think of it like one of the stick on 3M wall hangers, down sheer is very strong 

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silver8ack said:


> Ok, I'll have to think about it. My only 'hang ups' are that this piece will rest on the floor...a carpeted floor.
> 
> If I use the french cleat to secure it to the wall, and I start loading stuff onto the shelf, the carpet will compress and .... o wait, no it won't because the cleat will bear the weight.
> 
> ...


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Looks like a nice job Ben.

I've used minwax gunstock stain and it came out a bit more reddish than their pamphlet showed. When I try out new colors, I like to get small cans and test them on some scrap from what I'm working on.

For making the shelf tip proof, you can use earthquake straps. These are pieces of webbing (like the stuff seat belts and backpack straps are made from) that you attach to the wall and the shelf. You'll also need some #8 or #10 screws and fender washers. Use one strap on each end just under the top. You can attach the strap to the bottom of the top in line with a stud (make sure your screws don't go thru). If you do it rignt, there will be very little play in the webbing. You won't be able to see the strap once you have CD's and DVD's on the shelves. You can get the webbing from a sporting goods store - look at their mountaineering dept. You'll only need a few inches so a foot would be plenty. Alternately, if you have an old backpack, or carrying bag with webbing material, you can re-purpose the straps.


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