# Bosch 1617 router base problem



## bill kay (Aug 12, 2007)

It appears that Bosch may be having a problem with the fixed base shipped with the 1617. Originally I thought it was just me. I have done a little research and am now noticing similar problems being noted on other forums. 

I purchased the 1617 and after the second use the router was extremely difficult to remove from the fixed base. The fit was fine in the plunge base. I thought it was just me or the way the fixed base was mounted in the router table. The base appears to have scored and scratched the motor housing.

I called Bosch Customer Support and was handed off to a "Senior Tech". He told me that they weren't aware of any problems with that base but I should drop it off at a "Quick Service Drop Off Point". I did a little over three weeks ago and it still isn't back yet. So much for the promised 5 day turn around.

Bad customer service ... I thought I was buying a quality tool.

Regards,
Bill


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bill, you did buy a quality tool. The 1617 is what many "new" products from other manufacturers are designed after. The scoring and scratching you mention is something new to me. I have a pair of 1617's and they have been trouble free for many years. There is nothing in either the housing or motor case that will cause this other than the alignment pin which must be installed in the slot. All manufacturers have problems with quality control and an occasional bad apple slips through. To date Bosch has stood behind their products better than any other manufacturer. I am not surprised at the delay since the 3 week period mentioned includes Christmas and New Years. Give them a chance, they will make things right. If you have any problems contact me by way of a private message and I will help you deal with them. Be sure to save any emails to document the delay.


----------



## bill kay (Aug 12, 2007)

Hi Mike,

Thanks for the offer to help. I'll keep you posted as we proceed.

I explained to the counter person, at the drop off point, that there were two problems with the base. One was that it was machined improperly, it was an ellipse as well as tapered from small at the top to larger at the bottom.

Problem 2 was the mounting bolt which holds one of the handles protrudes well into the area where the router resides. That probably caused the scoring of the motor housing.

The only part that was sent back for repair/replacement was the fixed base. I got the 
impression that I'll just have to live with the galled case.

I spoke with the folks at the drop off point yesterday. They are now telling me that Bosch is doesn't know if it can be repaired and they are not sure of any replacement policy.

Here is an excerpt from a conversation on another forum. It appears that there is a serious problem with a batch of the aluminum bases.

Regards,
Bill


http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbth...3443672&page=2&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=2


"I told them it was two yrs. old and it is real hard to get it in and out of the plunge base.He said wait a few mins. and left. About 20 mins later he returned my router with a new alum. houseing and a new plunge base. He told me the older models with alum. houseings had been machined wrong and alot of them had to be replaced.I asked if mine had anything to do with a magnisium houseing and he said no. He said mine was an alum. housing to begin with."


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bill, I would take some ScotchBrite and polish the motor case and base a bit, then give it a coat of automotive wax. This is a good practice for most brands of routers. Since the damage to the case was apparently done by handle bolts that were too long you can grind off a thread to prevent any future damage. If you follow the path most commonly used you will remove the handles for table mounting the fixed base. Write down the dates you contacted Bosch and any details you remember. Specifics help in problem resolution.


----------



## reikimaster (Sep 29, 2005)

I've got the 1617 with magnesium housing and the bases both have "MAGNESIUM" stamped into them. I have learned that the alignment arrows have to be aligned on the motor housing and the base when you put them together. There's a pressed in pin inside teh base that mates with a groove. If you misalign the 2 parts when installing the motor into the housing, you can actually press that pin out. When that happens, your locking detents don't lock. 

Also... at the latch that locks the housing into the base (NOT the detent latch) there is an adjustment for how tight the motor housing will be squeezed by the base when you lock it. If that's a little too lose (real easy to open and close the latch) then it's also real easy to misalign the housing and base as you put them together. The housing lock latch should snap in TIGHT when you lock the housing into the base. When the latch is open there should be definite resistance to rotating the housing within the base. It shouldn't be HARD to move... but it shouldn't be real easy either. If it's a little snug when the latch is open, then you'll have far fewer issues with alignment when you simply use the fine adjustment knob to raise or lower the router in the base.

I'd have to take a look at the handles on mine when I get home to see how far that stud protrudes into the base. I could see where... if it's not screwed into the wooden handle far enough, there would be too much exposed and it would screw too far into the base. In that case I'd probably just add a washer to the stud between the handle and base.

Just stuff I've learned from using my router. Hope some it might be helpful.


----------



## lgmonson (Jul 27, 2007)

bill kay said:


> It appears that Bosch may be having a problem with the fixed base shipped with the 1617. Originally I thought it was just me. I have done a little research and am now noticing similar problems being noted on other forums.
> 
> I purchased the 1617 and after the second use the router was extremely difficult to remove from the fixed base. The fit was fine in the plunge base. I thought it was just me or the way the fixed base was mounted in the router table. The base appears to have scored and scratched the motor housing.
> 
> ...


Bosch routers were manufactured with both magnesium (early) and aluminum (later) motor housings. The aluminum housings are slightly larger in diameter and do not slide easily in magnesium bases. magnesium bases can be easily identified because they have the word "MAGNESIUM" cast on the side of the base. The magnesium motor housings will fit the 690 Porter Cable plunge base, but the aluminum ones will not.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Leroy, most 3.5" motors will interchange between brands as far as fitting into the base; this does not mean they will function the same way. It could be useful in an emergency on a job site.


----------



## lgmonson (Jul 27, 2007)

*Bosch 1617 in Porter Cable 690 Plunge Base*

I used my Bosch 1617 magnesium cased router in a PC 690 Series plung base for several years and it worked great. (That was prior to Bosch's marketing their own plunge base.) When Bosch exchanged my router motor due to the magnesium corrosion problem, the replacement motor was aluminum and would fit neither the 690 plunge base nor my original magnesuim bases. Again Bosch exchanged both of my magnesium fixed bases for ones of aluminum. (I had purchased a second one for my router table) I bought a new Bosch 1617 kit that included a plunge base and gave the 690 plunge base to my son who needed a plunge base for his old:dance3::dance3::dance3::dance3: PC 690.


----------



## Woodsnot (Feb 21, 2012)

*New bosch 1617 issues*



lgmonson said:


> Bosch routers were manufactured with both magnesium (early) and aluminum (later) motor housings. The aluminum housings are slightly larger in diameter and do not slide easily in magnesium bases. magnesium bases can be easily identified because they have the word "MAGNESIUM" cast on the side of the base. The magnesium motor housings will fit the 690 Porter Cable plunge base, but the aluminum ones will not.


I just bought a new Bosch 1617evspk and after 3 times removing the base from my homemade router table to change bits the moter housing is scratched beyond belief. I loosened the base clamp screw and used a screwdriver to pry open the base while pulling out the moter but it still was difficult to remove and still scratches the moter housing. should I just return the whole thing back to Lowes and buy a new one somewhere else?:fie::fie:


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

You should not need to use a screw drive I think I would take it back also.

===



Woodsnot said:


> I just bought a new Bosch 1617evspk and after 3 times removing the base from my homemade router table to change bits the moter housing is scratched beyond belief. I loosened the base clamp screw and used a screwdriver to pry open the base while pulling out the moter but it still was difficult to remove and still scratches the moter housing. should I just return the whole thing back to Lowes and buy a new one somewhere else?:fie::fie:


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Mike sent me photos of the problem and it is an obvious factory defect.(This happens with all brands) There should be no problem exchanging it for a replacement. Always check new router motor's and bases for casting flash or burrs and remove it with fine sand paper. A coat of Johnsons paste wax prevents corrosion and keeps things gliding smoothly.


----------



## woodrouterreviewsguy (Feb 21, 2012)

I agree. This is a quality tool. One of the best on the market in my opinion. Looks like the manufacturer needs to take a look at this one.


----------



## Woodsnot (Feb 21, 2012)

*Exchanged for new*

The new router was machined correctly and works great. I waxed it and the base, now i don't have any problems removing the motor. Life is good!


----------



## lgmonson (Jul 27, 2007)

Is it possible that the cam locking lever was adjusted too tight so the base did not fully release the motor? I have two 1617's and they both interchange easily in my 4 fixed bases (two in router table insert plates and two used for freehand routing). I hope you did not forget to release the cam lock before using the above the table adjusting screw


----------



## STONER529 (Mar 7, 2016)

*Great thread for newbies on stuck bases.*

I am amateur when it comes to fine wood working. I bought this router because although I am horrible with it as I learn, I liked all reviews off it. I bought to build a wood frame for my Full Size RC R2-D2, so it hasn't gotten alot of use, but I know I got what I paid for. With its limited use, I have encountered the same scarring on the side of the motor, and it became very difficult to remove. I first tried a grinding will from my dremel and had little success. Once seeing to try fine sandpaper and wax, that was my next thing to try. I felt I didnt need to return this because it seems like such an easy fix. I had some fine sandpaper because of my plastic modeling hobby. I sanded all around the plunge base and motor. I had no wax but a little wd-40. This did the trick and now I have no troubles getting the router in and out. Yes I do realize this is a 6 year old thread and hasn't been posted in for almost 4 years but I figure every post helps someone who is STUCK!


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

1st... Clean off the WD-40.. it gums up and attracts crud...
2nd.. got to a dry lube like TriFlow and use it sparingly.. furniture paste wax is another good option...
3rd... loosen the locking cam nut a fuzz..
4th.. make sure the detent lever is fully depressed to release the motor....


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Ari; welcome!
Absolutely on the resurrecting an old thread. It's the old 'If the shoe fits' thing. Never hurts to have these things refreshed if they're still relevant.
There's a lot of Bosch tool owners here so it's a great resource for info. 
Stick's pretty much available 24/7 for consults...


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

thanks a whole bunch Dan...


----------



## Arcola60 (Jul 4, 2009)

I had the same issue with mine. I do not know what the problem was. I used 320, scotchbrite, cleaned it each time I tried it in the base. In the plunge base it went in like it had eyes. I slowly worked it until I opened the base enough to just slide in. I think the base got distorted during the machining process. It was just enough to cause issues. Now I am a happy camper. I removed it from my router table thinking it was in a bind. Not the case. It is a real problem for some. I removed the material from the base not the motor. I miced the OD. It had a consistent diameter. It was in the fixed base.

Ellery Becnel


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Arcola60 said:


> I had the same issue with mine. I do not know what the problem was. I used 320, scotchbrite, cleaned it each time I tried it in the base. In the plunge base it went in like it had eyes. I slowly worked it until I opened the base enough to just slide in. *I think the base got distorted during the machining process. *It was just enough to cause issues. Now I am a happy camper. I removed it from my router table thinking it was in a bind. Not the case. It is a real problem for some. I removed the material from the base not the motor. I miced the OD. It had a consistent diameter. It was in the fixed base.
> 
> Ellery Becnel


in that case (suspected or otherwise) Bosch CS is your friend...


----------



## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

DaninVan said:


> Hey, Ari; welcome!
> Absolutely on the resurrecting an old thread. It's the old 'If the shoe fits' thing. Never hurts to have these things refreshed if they're still relevant.
> There's a lot of Bosch tool owners here so it's a great resource for info.
> Stick's pretty much available 24/7 for consults...


And I hear his rates are pretty reasonable as well! :smile:


----------



## Arcola60 (Jul 4, 2009)

Got it. It would go on but it was too tight. It did not take much to make a nice sliding fit. If it were too much I would have contacted CS. Once locked in place I indicated the base perpendicular to the motor. Within .002 at the face. I knew it was good. Now the motor will slide in and out with no binding. I have years of rotating equipment repairs, this was fun for me.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

cocobolo1 said:


> And I hear his rates are pretty reasonable as well! :smile:


the old rates were 125$ 1st hour 75$ each additional hour w/ 4 hour minimum... - 450$...
that's very reasonable...

today... 650$...


----------



## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> the old rates were 125$ 1st hour 75$ each additional hour w/ 4 hour minimum... - 450$...
> that's very reasonable...
> 
> today... 650$...


That's not bad...after I get my commission, you should have enough left for a cup of coffee. Good deal! >


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

cocobolo1 said:


> That's not bad...after I get my commission, you should have enough left for a cup of coffee. Good deal! >


no problem ...


----------



## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

I have the same issue with my fixed base and have since day one. I probably should have called CS or gotten a replacement when I bought it 4 years ago. Late last year I bought the plunge base and WOW what a difference! So I guess I'll take some measurements and see if it's egg shaped and do a little light metal work on it if it is. But it is frustrating, especially since it's such a good router.


----------



## clutions (May 28, 2016)

Don't know why I've missed this forum for so long. Have enjoyed browsing it for the last couple of days. Anyway this is kind of base related but more of an adjustment issue. Whenever you need to make a fine adjustment you need to un-clamp the motor. After making the fine adjustment and re-clamping the motor it shifts the adjustment a wee bit (I know, high tech lingo) which means I have to keep checking it after clamping and possibly re-adjusting multiple times. I've lived with this for years but it seems there are some folks here that may be able to help. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Francis


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

why haven't you called Bosch customer service???


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Francis, the way to make your final height adjustment with all brands of table mounted routers is to do it while moving the bit up. If you go too far lower it and try again until you get it right. This ensures proper support when the clamp is released; your bit should never drop.


----------



## clutions (May 28, 2016)

Mike > I understand that ... short of spending hundreds of dollars on a router-lift with a DRO I thought there might be something I was doing wrong. I've talked to other folks with the same problem and get the same the same answer. Fortunately I'm in no real hurry when I'm working on a project, but it's a bit frustrating to have to make multiple adjustments for a 1/16 of an inch or so. ... and at 71+ I don't want to spend all my time making adjustments ... LOL

Thanks for the response though.

Stick > I don't speak farsi!


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

clutions said:


> Stick > I don't speak farsi!


why would you need to???
you say you are from Wood River, Illinois....
so speak English...


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

_"Stick > I don't speak farsi!"_
-Francis

Francis; Bosch's Customer Service, and product support, is second to none. That's from personal experience...and I had no issues with uh, accents/comprehension. Just sayin...
(The tech I spoke with was extremely knowledgeable.)

Another route (see what I did there? ) might be to stop by the lumber yard or wherever the Bosch reps are doing a demo...I think the Bosch website has a calendar of appearances.


----------



## clutions (May 28, 2016)

Ok guys ... we'll give it a shot. The truth is I just never thought about it. I just figured that was something I'd have to live with. I take if from Mike's post that it was a trial and error thing. Not that I have a REAL problem with that (it's so minor in the grand scheme of things) I thought (first error) that someone might come up with something I hadn't thought of.

Thanks again for all the response.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Call Me...*



Stick486 said:


> why would you need to???
> you say you are from Wood River, Illinois....
> so speak English...


Stick; I think Francis was taking a well deserved swipe at foreign based call centers. 

Dilbert Comic Strip on 2004-05-08 | Dilbert by Scott Adams :surprise:


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Stick; I think Francis was taking a well deserved swipe at foreign based call centers.
> 
> Dilbert Comic Strip on 2004-05-08 | Dilbert by Scott Adams :surprise:


okay...
never bother w/ them, except the ones in Canada...


----------



## clutions (May 28, 2016)

Right on Dan! Sorry Stick!


----------

