# Looking for help routing aluminum 6061 t6



## Danbya (Jun 3, 2011)

We have been routing aluminum bar stock for quote some time and have only recently come into some problems. I am routing some holes and a groove in a square and then cutting the bar to make a 6x6 plate. The problem is we keep breaking bits and burning up the aluminum. We have a cool tool blowing directly on the bits but we cannot use coolant. Anyone know of any suggestions to help the process work better?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Danbya said:


> We have been routing aluminum bar stock for quote some time and have only recently come into some problems. I am routing some holes and a groove in a square and then cutting the bar to make a 6x6 plate. The problem is we keep breaking bits and burning up the aluminum. We have a cool tool blowing directly on the bits but we cannot use coolant. Anyone know of any suggestions to help the process work better?


Hi Danbya:

You say you've been doing this before with success. My first question would be what have you changed?? New router?? New bits from a different vendor?? dull bits? different operator who's pushing it too fast/not fast enough? Is your aluminum stock coming from a reputable supplier and have you had the formulation independently tested?? Have you changed the depth of cut?? All of the above are good starting points. Can you go back and test against old material, tools and bits?


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## Danbya (Jun 3, 2011)

We have been doing this before but with round cut outs and did not have a problem. we have since switched to a square cut out and have had problems ever since. when we notch the aluminum with a round "track" then it seems to work fine. It only gives us a problem when we try routing a square track. We did recently switch suppliers of our bits so that could be part of the problem but those bits didn't seem to give us a problem every time. We use a single flute spiral upcut bit and i'm also thinking maybe a 2 flute would be better for the aluminum.


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## RT1000 (Jan 9, 2007)

May speed have any thing to with it. I am not a pro when it come to routing Alum. though i have done some and found the more flutes, slowest speed, slower and steady feed worked best for me (just my little experience) Have you tried using an End mill instead of a router bit.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Use a 2 flute carbide router bit and slow the router bit speed down. I have had many problems using single flute router bits and only seem to get acceptable cuts on laminate with them. A 2 flute carbide spiral up cut bit running at about 14,000 rpm will likely get you the best results. Metal machining isn't the best thing to do with woodworking tools, but even I sometimes do it if the task is light and the metal is soft. 

Charley


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Danbya said:


> We have been doing this before but with round cut outs and did not have a problem. we have since switched to a square cut out and have had problems ever since. when we notch the aluminum with a round "track" then it seems to work fine. It only gives us a problem when we try routing a square track. We did recently switch suppliers of our bits so that could be part of the problem but those bits didn't seem to give us a problem every time. We use a single flute spiral upcut bit and i'm also thinking maybe a 2 flute would be better for the aluminum.


Ok, several things here.

First, Charley's comments make sense.

Ok, when you're using a round nose bit, the friction of the cutting action is spread across the entire face of the carbide and thus the heat generated is spread around. When you're using a bit with a point on the edge all of the focus of the cutting is on that point. Much more heat is generated and in this case that heat is melting the aluminum, not cutting it. 

Try Charley's comments and report back on the results. We're all learning from this so hopefully your comments will encourage others to speak up.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

If you have a 1/2" Colet get an end mill as used in a mill. For some reason or other they hold up better than a router bit and they are usually cheaper. When working with aluminum keep your speed slow and with steel fast. That also goes for drilling the two metals. Aluminum can be worked without a coolant if you take your time. Liquids have a tendency to gum up aluminum chips so keep some air handy if you feel the need to use a liquid.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

So the excavation is square cornered and flat bottomed, no radii except in the 4 four corners = to the radius of the cutter? And that is your design demand?
Is there a spec. on the corner radius?


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## Danbya (Jun 3, 2011)

Quillman said:


> So the excavation is square cornered and flat bottomed, no radii except in the 4 four corners = to the radius of the cutter? And that is your design demand?
> Is there a spec. on the corner radius?


Yes the plates are specific for a material we use. There are 6" x 6" square and the "track" laying in the plate is 3/8" thick and 5" square, about 3/16" deep. The plates are only 3/8" thick. There are 5 oles plunged into them as well. There are 4 holes 3/8" and 1 center hole 1/2" diameter. All of these holes, tracks, and cuts are made right now with a 3/8" single "o" flute up cut bit. I was already looking into a 2 flute bit but the thing I am worried about with that is the plunging of the holes. Would it maybe be better to use the single flute bit for the holes and then switch bits to the 2 flute for routing the square track and cutting the plate? 

Also with the milling bit, would that be able to cut through the material?

Also I will be getting a picture to post on here to show you what I am talking about.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Have no trouble outside-wasting thick stock.
The dynamics on inside cutting are indeed different.
One thing for sure I would not plunge holes; that is a drill press operation.
If you're drilling with a router bit in Al. you're killing the bit before it has a chance to do your excavational work. 

See if a new cutter will waste the inside.
I would definitely use spiral ground solid carbide; in your case (unless CNC) something short and with a 1/2" cutting diameter. A slow spiral up or down.

You may need a consultant you're right on the edge of needing it.
Why? Because this stuff is dangerous. The utmost in router control and rigid fixturing is essential. Moreover, with an excavation as large as yours, in my view, should be done on a mill. Not only for the sake of safety but it will be faster and easier. Routing aluminum is very tricky stuff.

Mill through with a milling tool? Possible if it has bottom cutting capability but, again, in my view, holes should bored on the drill press, not routed.


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## Danbya (Jun 3, 2011)

This is exactly what we are making. We also make a round one and really don't have a problem with the round ones near as much. the square are relatively new to us. The round we have been doing for about 1.5 years and have had little trouble with.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Danbya said:


> This is exactly what we are making. We also make a round one and really don't have a problem with the round ones near as much. the square are relatively new to us. The round we have been doing for about 1.5 years and have had little trouble with.


This is CLEARLY a job for a milling machine. Doing it with a router is much less accurate and quite dangerous. I'm very surprised that you haven't been injured yet.


Charley


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I think it's fine to use the router for the job,I use kerosene and little bit on the router bit works great, But if you can swing a mill they work great for that type of job you don't need to buy a high end mill,you can get one that will fit right on the min lathe with out braking the bank..

Mini Lathe - 7" x 10" Precision Mini Lathe

3-In-1 Mini Milling Machine w/ Micro Feed

http://www.harborfreight.com/multipurpose-machine-5980.html

http://littlemachineshop.com/

===========


Danbya said:


> This is exactly what we are making. We also make a round one and really don't have a problem with the round ones near as much. the square are relatively new to us. The round we have been doing for about 1.5 years and have had little trouble with.


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## Danbya (Jun 3, 2011)

Thank you for all your guys help. A milling machine would be the proper way to rout these however we mass produce these. We go through about 20-30 a day so we need the capability to produce large quantities with little human interaction. With all your guys help I have been able to rout for the last 5 days and no jamming up. Also I am looking for a different type of bit to do the drilling of the holes, I believe that is where our problem is. Do any of you have a suggestion for drilling a 3/8" hole. Basically we would make 2 programs, 1 for drilling the holes and the other for the track and cutting. I would like to use maybe a 2 flute bit bit I am not sure if that would work. any suggestions?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Danbya said:


> Thank you for all your guys help. A milling machine would be the proper way to rout these however we mass produce these. We go through about 20-30 a day so we need the capability to produce large quantities with little human interaction. With all your guys help I have been able to rout for the last 5 days and no jamming up. Also I am looking for a different type of bit to do the drilling of the holes, I believe that is where our problem is. Do any of you have a suggestion for drilling a 3/8" hole. Basically we would make 2 programs, 1 for drilling the holes and the other for the track and cutting. I would like to use maybe a 2 flute bit bit I am not sure if that would work. any suggestions?


what about a standard brad point bit in an electric drill or drill press. Even a twist bit will drill aluminum but the operative word is "slowly."


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Danbya said:


> Thank you for all your guys help. A milling machine would be the proper way to rout these however we mass produce these. We go through about 20-30 a day so we need the capability to produce large quantities with little human interaction. With all your guys help I have been able to rout for the last 5 days and no jamming up. Also I am looking for a different type of bit to do the drilling of the holes, I believe that is where our problem is. Do any of you have a suggestion for drilling a 3/8" hole. Basically we would make 2 programs, 1 for drilling the holes and the other for the track and cutting. I would like to use maybe a 2 flute bit bit I am not sure if that would work. any suggestions?


I used to drill a lot of holes in aluminum using something called a "double margin step drill" and a high speed drill motor. For a 3/8" body diameter bit the pilot size would be 5/16" and the holes would have a nice finish almost like a reamer would leave because the pilot did the brunt of the stock removal.


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

Danbya said:


> Thank you for all your guys help. A milling machine would be the proper way to rout these however we mass produce these. We go through about 20-30 a day so we need the capability to produce large quantities with little human interaction. With all your guys help I have been able to rout for the last 5 days and no jamming up. Also I am looking for a different type of bit to do the drilling of the holes, I believe that is where our problem is. Do any of you have a suggestion for drilling a 3/8" hole. Basically we would make 2 programs, 1 for drilling the holes and the other for the track and cutting. I would like to use maybe a 2 flute bit bit I am not sure if that would work. any suggestions?


I'd imagine, once you set up a mill + the right jig/fixturing, you wouldn't need any more interaction than you have now with the router. As for drilling the hole, get a fixture set up in a drill press, use the proper cutting fluid, drill in a few sizes, maybe 1/8", 1/4", then 3/8"? Do them all with the 1/8", then 1/4", etc.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Drill on left, quite ordinary x 120 degrees, made for drilling aluminum. Might cost 4$,


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Apart from the 120deg, wouldn't ally drills normally be quick spiral, as well?

Cheers

Peter


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

gregW said:


> I used to drill a lot of holes in aluminum using something called a "double margin step drill" and a high speed drill motor. For a 3/8" body diameter bit the pilot size would be 5/16" and the holes would have a nice finish almost like a reamer would leave because the pilot did the brunt of the stock removal.


Thanks Greg:

Little bits of information like this add to the collective knowledge of this forum. Now, how to retrieve that vital information when it's needed. Now, that's the real problem!


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Apart from the 120deg, wouldn't ally drills normally be quick spiral, as well?

Cheers

Peter
*******************************************************
Don't know if you're addressing me. Don't know what ally means. Do know how to drill aluminum, however. And regular twist x 118 preceded by 120 countersink x 1/8" will insure a centered clean hole with near perfect entry and exit.
Previous note was wrong; I meant a 118 degree point not 120.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

istracpsboss said:


> Apart from the 120deg, wouldn't ally drills normally be quick spiral, as well?
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


Hi Peter:

What's an "ally" drill?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Ron and Pat

UK slang for aluminium. I was avoiding the UK/US spelling variation !
Drill bits I have for drilling aluminium are quick spiral, to take the swarf away more quickly and avoid chips welding to the tip , just as ones for brass are slow spiral (with the lip stoned to prevent grabbing).
Regular jobber drills have an intermediate spiral.
Just had a quick look in MSC, but although they list 118deg jobber drills, I couldn't find the quick spiral ones that we use in the UK.

Cheers

Peter


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

istracpsboss said:


> Hi Ron and Pat
> 
> UK slang for aluminium. I was avoiding the UK/US spelling variation !
> Drill bits I have for drilling aluminium are quick spiral, to take the swarf away more quickly and avoid chips welding to the tip , just as ones for brass are slow spiral (with the lip stoned to prevent grabbing).
> ...


Thanks Peter:

Ain't langage wunderful ;-)


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