# router safety ? working close to the bit?



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Here is what I'm trying to do. What is the safe & proper way to go about it?
I made one but felt my fingers were really close to the bit. Is there some safety tips, push sticks, hold downs etc that will make this safer. The big 1" maple saw grip push stick on the left was fairly easy & I never got close to the bit. But the smaller one I was close to the bit. (round over cut was same issues however it felt easier) I stopped to get some tips.
Have several handles to make for jigs etc so I can continue on the cabinet. Last pic shows what I think is the starting position.
Other than "be careful", safety tricks & tips ??


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

You just need a handle to hang on to,, wood clamps work well for this job.
Just do one side then reclamp.. 

see below

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Bogydave said:


> Here is what I'm trying to do. What is the safe & proper way to go about it?
> I made one but felt my fingers were really close to the bit. Is there some safety tips, push sticks, hold downs etc that will make this safer. The big 1" maple saw grip push stick on the left was fairly easy & I never got close to the bit. But the smaller one I was close to the bit. (round over cut was same issues however it felt easier) I stopped to get some tips.
> Have several handles to make for jigs etc so I can continue on the cabinet. Last pic shows what I think is the starting position.
> Other than "be careful", safety tricks & tips ??
> ...


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Thanks bj
Well I can honestly say I was expecting a picture of some fancy Jig, with hold downs, sliding rails & a special bit for the job. 
Nice to know some things are simple.
I did the job with no clamp, learning cure pretty short on this job. Hardest was getting the cut started. 1st one was 1" maple, it was the one that made me a little nervous. 
Regardless, got that learning curve under my belt. All went well. (learned: use the starting pin, trim wood close to the pattern where the cut will start, to not push to hard against the bit, then firm, not hard against the bearing, smooth steady cutting speed, for direction change, pull away from the bit & start where cut has been made already & smoothly go into the uncut section.
Be Carful, Safe & Smart.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Because you have got it well sorted there isn't need for me to comment further, other than for other beginners, I'll press the importance of a starting pin or use of the fence for support when starting the cut.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

You're Welcome,,, they look very nice,, hahahahaha now comes the jig I can't let you down  

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Bogydave said:


> Thanks bj
> Well I can honestly say I was expecting a picture of some fancy Jig, with hold downs, sliding rails & a special bit for the job.
> Nice to know some things are simple.
> I did the job with no clamp, learning cure pretty short on this job. Hardest was getting the cut started. 1st one was 1" maple, it was the one that made me a little nervous.
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Your jig is quite superb Bj, but making these jigs leaves you no time to actually make anything else, or perhaps this is what you do, whereas I like to make clocks, trinket and jewellery boxes and of late turned items now that my furniture making days are over, I suppose it's a case of whatever turns you on.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

Note the dates on most of the jigs  most are old...

But I must agree I do like to make jigs,,,It's like when I was into cars I did get a bigger kick out of building them than driving them..but I did need to drive them from time to time to know what I needed to do to fix them..and take them for a little test ride, but then is was over for me and on to the next challenge ....

I always new I could drive them but I was not always to sure if I could fix them..
Woodworking the art of fixing errors 

PLus posting something I made will not help anyone I think, but it's always nice to see what others can do with a router...
One more thing I just don't have the room in the house for any projects it's wall to wall of projects now, I do make my share and give most alway..but you can only do that for so long...




harrysin said:


> Your jig is quite superb Bj, but making these jigs leaves you no time to actually make anything else, or perhaps this is what you do, whereas I like to make clocks, trinket and jewellery boxes and of late turned items now that my furniture making days are over, I suppose it's a case of whatever turns you on.


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

bj:"Note the dates on most of the jigs most are old"
What's wrong with OLD. especially when they work, & work well.
Time for a garage sale? Street fair booth?
Trouble with these is you rarely ever recover the price for the wood, let alone your time.

The jigs & tips you are passing along will help develop craftsmen/women, & never be lost. & It's keeping you out of allot of trouble at the very least.(well maybe not)


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

Bogydave said:


> Here is what I'm trying to do. What is the safe & proper way to go about it?
> I made one but felt my fingers were really close to the bit. Is there some safety tips, push sticks, hold downs etc that will make this safer. The big 1" maple saw grip push stick on the left was fairly easy & I never got close to the bit. But the smaller one I was close to the bit. (round over cut was same issues however it felt easier) I stopped to get some tips.
> Have several handles to make for jigs etc so I can continue on the cabinet. Last pic shows what I think is the starting position.
> Other than "be careful", safety tricks & tips ??
> ...


Hi Dave

I have just come across your posting and your concern when trying to shape the handles on the router table.

This is a typical example of 'Do I use the router table or do I use the template guide method? For those who may be new to routing and looking at this post there is a safer method of producing the shapes required.

As we see in the photograph there is a need to produce a template true to size and shape if we wish to produce a number of the same project.

My answer to the problem is to produce two templates and with the material secure the router is used in the plunge mode with a straight cutter routing 3-6mm deep each cut will produce a better finish to the edges and also reduce the fear of loosing a finger.

Before we all get on our 'high horse' and start saying yes it can be achieved on the router table, the question is, was it cut with greater safety awareness?. This is what the use of the template guides and working with the router in the plunge mode is all about, for certain projects there are two solutions, we have to choose the safer method.

If you need any assistance regarding producing the templates email me with sizes and details of shapes.

Tom

P.S. With a special cutter fitted to the router it will be possible to add the rounding over at the same time again taking away the danger when fingers get too close to the cutter when using a rounding over cutter. Using this cutter will mean each template will be duplicated and you are able to work from both sides. *With Greater Safety Awareness*
Tom


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

Bogydave said:


> Here is what I'm trying to do. What is the safe & proper way to go about it?
> I made one but felt my fingers were really close to the bit.


If you're going to cut it on the table with an appropriate way to hold it (Template Tom has a point), also watch the grain direction. I'd flip the piece over and use a template bit on the palm side of the handle so the bit doesn't catch and grab + break the piece.

Each board has a personality; some will be fine and some will not like routing into the grain like this

router goes this way ->\\\\ <- ASCII wood grain

but this will be fine because the bit will flatten the fibers instead of digging in

router goes this way ->//// <- ASCII wood grain

although that requires flipping the piece to avoid making a climb cut


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

*Not necessary to use the router somtimes*



Bogydave said:


> Here is what I'm trying to do. What is the safe & proper way to go about it?
> I made one but felt my fingers were really close to the bit. Is there some safety tips, push sticks, hold downs etc that will make this safer. The big 1" maple saw grip push stick on the left was fairly easy & I never got close to the bit. But the smaller one I was close to the bit. (round over cut was same issues however it felt easier) I stopped to get some tips.
> Have several handles to make for jigs etc so I can continue on the cabinet. Last pic shows what I think is the starting position.
> Other than "be careful", safety tricks & tips ??
> ...


I know this is a router forum.
But is there an unwritten "commandment" that "thou shall use a router or router table for everything"?


For safe working on small items, I would always avoid the router/router table(& the table saw) completely.
Alternative methods:-
1. Use a Scroll saw 
2. Edge with Spokeshave scape with a knife/chisel
3. Manual Sandpapering or use a powered drum sanders.
4. Pieces clamped on vise or workmate and work on them using a hand held Dremel mototool.
5. Lathe for small cylindrical objects.



Reuel


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Just a suggestion. Add a handle similar to the one you're making, to the top of the template. One more. Use a starting pin.


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

reuelt said:


> I know this is a router forum.
> But is there an unwritten "commandment" that "thou shall use a router or router table for everything"?
> 
> I agree whole heartedly to your statement above but this is not really a 'Small' item.
> ...


Learn new skills associated with the router when using the template guides before attempting such small items. It can be done and it can be done with Safety.

Tom


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

template tom said:


> Learn new skills associated with the router when using the template guides before attempting such small items. It can be done and it can be done with Safety.
> 
> Tom


Hi Tom,
I have a total of 21 template Guide Bushings of various sizes. But I do not encourage "plunge mode" because of DUST.

Your statement that Plunge Mode routing is safer is true but only mechanically.

Fine wood dust is very toxic (causes nose & lung cancer) and dust capture in "Plunge Mode routing" is more difficult and less effective than table mounted routing.
Harrysin for example says he does not even connect up a vacuum hose when "Plunge Mode routing". (sorry, Harry to use you as example for the sake of safety & health)

We need to care not only for people's fingers only but also for their long term health.

Reuel


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