# Homemade micro jig gripper?



## Artemix (Aug 10, 2014)

Hi, after so many fail attempts at trying to bevel cut a thing piece of wood I've realized something, I need to have some kind of better push/pressure system to make it work.

Even when the cut is ok, the edge is not.. perfect, it's full of blade marks, which means that I couldn't maintain a full and constant pressure all the time of the piece of wood against the fence (correct if I'm wrong).

So, I watched some videos of the micro jig gripper and it seems.. amazing.

But, there is one problem, the product is impossible to get where I live. Not even if I want to buy it, plus the shipping, plus the customs tax I will be able to acquire one.

That leaves me with one alternative, to make one.

I was googling for some time, but it seems like not many people tried to make one, I've only found one link that only contain some images.. well.

Do you guys have any info about how to build one?.

Thanks!.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

A sled that holds the piece you are cutting is easier to build


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## Artemix (Aug 10, 2014)

I see, would that be your approach to cut a bevel in a long piece of MDF for example?.


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## phillip.c (Aug 9, 2012)

There was a fellow about a year ago who posted pictures of one he had made. If you try a few search box keywords, you might find it. If you have any access to ready-made hardware such as angle iron the task might be easier and a bit more professional. You might consider making the custom features from composite materials like MDF that won't move too much over time.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Artemix said:


> I see, would that be your approach to cut a bevel in a long piece of MDF for example?.


how long???
how wide???


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

these work to hold the material down and against the fence...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Artemix said:


> I see, would that be your approach to cut a bevel in a long piece of MDF for example?.


rip to near size and finish w/ a straight edge and router...


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## Artemix (Aug 10, 2014)

But I need a 45 degree angle, do you mean that I should tilt the router?.

I also looked for long 45 degrees or "v" shape bits but I couldn't find a long enough one.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Artemix said:


> But I need a 45 degree angle, do you mean that I should tilt the router?.
> 
> I also looked for long 45 degrees or "v" shape bits but I couldn't find a long enough one.


you mean this???


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

another...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

more...

V Groove Router Bits by Amana Tool


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Artemix said:


> But I need a 45 degree angle, do you mean that I should tilt the router?.
> 
> I also looked for long 45 degrees or "v" shape bits but I couldn't find a long enough one.


I can see a router table in your future...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Artemix said:


> Hi, after so many fail attempts at trying to bevel cut a thing piece of wood I've realized something, I need to have some kind of better push/pressure system to make it work.
> 
> Even when the cut is ok, the edge is not.. perfect, it's full of blade marks, which means that I couldn't maintain a full and constant pressure all the time of the piece of wood against the fence (correct if I'm wrong).
> 
> ...


instead of cutting the thin piece against the fence put the larger piece against the fence and make the thin piece your drop...

use the router to cut your angle and then rip as required to get the piece you want...

save your router bit.. rough cut the angle 1st on the TS... MDF is tough on cutters.... 

build something like these...


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## Artemix (Aug 10, 2014)

Yeah I know there are bits like that but.. here is harder to get .

Anyway, I spent a couple of hours and I figured that I can use my TS for that, no need for router, since the TS can tilt, it is a DW745, I was kind of scared of the blade working like that TBH but... it worked nicely.

Now I need a jig like the one you mentioned, something that grabs my piece of MDF tightly while I move the jig. That would work good enough I think.

About the size, it is 3/4 MDF, 2"x25" aprox., and I need to bevel the edge 45 degrees.


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## Artemix (Aug 10, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> I can see a router table in your future...


Yes!, it is my next imminent project!, I already got the router and TS, now I need the table.


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Artemix said:


> Hi, after so many fail attempts at trying to bevel cut a thing piece of wood I've realized something, I need to have some kind of better push/pressure system to make it work.
> 
> Even when the cut is ok, the edge is not.. perfect, it's full of blade marks, which means that I couldn't maintain a full and constant pressure all the time of the piece of wood against the fence (correct if I'm wrong).
> 
> ...


Howdy Art. As to your original question, this post may be of some help. A 25X2 inch piece on the table saw is well within this push blocks capabilities.

http://www.routerforums.com/shop-safety/43251-needed-post.html 

Dick


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## Artemix (Aug 10, 2014)

Dick, thanks for sharing it, yeah I been thinking on doing something simple, maybe to have 3 or 4 of them, each one for specific tasks instead of a do it all complex gripper that I maybe can't do.

What I didn't see in your push blocks was a different surface in the base of the block, that is something I'd like to add.


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

Maybe this helps you
Shop-Made Grip-N-Rip FREE Plans


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## Artemix (Aug 10, 2014)

Those plans are great indeed.

I will have to replace the t-tracks for something else, here t-tracks are non-existent apparently.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Artemix said:


> Those plans are great indeed.
> 
> I will have to replace the t-tracks for something else, here t-tracks are non-existent apparently.


make your own T slots...

http://www.infinitytools.com/T-Slot-Channel-Hinge-Router-Bits/products/1393/

http://www.amazon.com/T-Slot-Router-Bits-SHK-1-3/dp/B003S7J3BO


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## Artemix (Aug 10, 2014)

Yeah Stick, I made them just a couple of minutes ago, but since I don't have a T shaped bit I just used two bits, and two pieces of wood. The base was MDF, and on top of that I put hardboard. It seems to work nicely. 

(Let me know if hardboard sucks for some reason, never used that "wood" before, it's weird )


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Artemix said:


> Yeah Stick, I made them just a couple of minutes ago, but since I don't have a T shaped bit I just used two bits, and two pieces of wood. The base was MDF, and on top of that I put hardboard. It seems to work nicely.
> 
> (Let me know if hardboard sucks for some reason, never used that "wood" before, it's weird )


you realize that hardboard is paper dust heated and compressed...
kinda fragile...
doesn't wear well either...

can you get Ipe or purple heart there???


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## Artemix (Aug 10, 2014)

Mhh.. not really.

I made some tests and it seems denser/harder than MDF at least.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Artemix said:


> Mhh.. not really.
> 
> I made some tests and it seems denser/harder than MDF at least.


MDF is thick hardboard...


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## Artemix (Aug 10, 2014)

Yeah probably is something similar to MDF but.. it seems to work, and i'ts something I can do.

The other option would be to use a T shaped router bit on a hardwood, I don't have neither of that.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Artemix said:


> Yeah probably is something similar to MDF but.. it seems to work, and it's something I can do.
> 
> The other option would be to use a T shaped router bit on a hardwood, I don't have neither of that.


you will...
give it time...


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

*Push block.*



Artemix said:


> Dick, thanks for sharing it, yeah I been thinking on doing something simple, maybe to have 3 or 4 of them, each one for specific tasks instead of a do it all complex gripper that I maybe can't do.
> 
> What I didn't see in your push blocks was a different surface in the base of the block, that is something I'd like to add.


Art I have made several of these. I have never seen the need to add anything to them. I know some people use nonslip placemats from local department store as a gripping surface for push pads. The main thing to remember about these pads is they are completely sacrificial. Almost any cut you make with them is going to cut into the bottom, and through the tab. When they get chewed to bad just make another one.

Dick .


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

Artemix said:


> Yeah Stick, I made them just a couple of minutes ago, but since I don't have a T shaped bit I just used two bits, and two pieces of wood. The base was MDF, and on top of that I put hardboard. It seems to work nicely.
> 
> (Let me know if hardboard sucks for some reason, never used that "wood" before, it's weird )


Up load some pics of the jig, please OK? :yes4:


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> you realize that hardboard is paper dust heated and compressed...
> kinda fragile...





Stick486 said:


> MDF is thick hardboard...


They are both compressed wood fiber, which you could say paper is also made from wood fiber... But diffent bonding adhesives, difference grade fiber and different pressures... but basically the same.

But you are also right in that it is brittle and doesn't _wear_ well. Brittle in that it is weak to lateral deflection, which it will then fail by seprating in layers that look paper like. It is denser on the sides, where being pressed together under pressure, there is more adhesive at the surface... but once through that, you can scuff it away with a fingernail. But has a lot of strength in it's length. MDF is stronger, as when it's made, under more pressure.

Having said that, I still have TS push sticks made from strips of hard board. It's inexpensive and 1/4 thin. Great for pushing thin strips past the blade.

Also have some than are made from 2x6, with a 1/4" mdf heel-- board goes over the stock and the 1/4" mdf heel hooks the edge of the stock and pushes it through. Would do also do with 1/4 ply, but left over scraps are here.

I also use tile floats as push blocks. I use these on my TS'es and router tables. When they have a spongy rubber face to them with a wood foundation and handle. They are inspesive-- only about $3 in a big-box store. So if they get cuts in them... no matters.

None of these push block and push stick designs that I have made are new. The ones I made were in old magazines and equipment magazines. Variantions came from the scraps I have or having to work with odd stock or projects. 

Better to take a few minutes to err towards safety than have an accident and be out for much longer.


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