# Norm's Router Table



## Zurt (Oct 27, 2010)

Just got the DVD and plans. One thing that concerns me is the HLP of only the top piece. Everything I've read to date says to laminate top and bottom. I have two pieces of 3/4" MDF already glued just waiting for a trim and HLP treatment.

What are your thoughts on just putting the HLP on the top? I have a 48x96 piece of Wilsonart.

Thanks,
Burt


----------



## DJeansonne (Mar 27, 2009)

Every table top plan calls to laminating both top and bottom. This to prevent mositure intrusion from the bottom.


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

I also support the idea of laminating both surfaces. Then, you're _sure_ that there won't be a difference in moisture content.


----------



## Dan Phalen (Dec 14, 2010)

I know why it's recommended, but I've been running mine no problem with lam on the top only, 2 1/2 years. It's a 3/4 + 1/2 MDF sandwich, and I live in a VERY wet climate.

If you have enough for both sides, it's probably the best insurance for flat for life.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

" laminating both surfaces " = it's not needed if the cabinet is built right, the cabinet will support the top..it can be a wet rag and the cabinet will do the job..

=========


----------



## DJeansonne (Mar 27, 2009)

*reasons for laminating the top*

I had started gluing up 2 layers of 3/4" MDF for a table top. I got side tracked and couldn't finish so I put it up for a while (almost a year). When I finally got back to start putting the oak trim banding, the top was not flat. The front was flat but the back side had a 1/16" sag on both outer edges. I sanded it flat before adding the edging but after attaching the edging it was again off because I cut the edge strips a hair less than the 1 1/2" thickness of the top. I just could not recover to my satisfaction so I gave up and bought a top from Rockler that was on sale.

The point I am trying to make is that MDF will move, swell, whatever if you don't wrap it up tight. I believe that you can't be too cautious and should laminate both sides and soon after gluing up the layers.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

The router table below is now 5+ years old and it dead flat ( 2ea. 3/4" MDF with Johnson Paste Wax on it..) the base cabinet is the key or to say how it's held in place. if I recall with 12 drywall screws into the bottom of the top.


=============


----------



## Zurt (Oct 27, 2010)

Bob J,
It appears that your top is not laminated at all. True? My top is already glued and just waiting for me to do something (like trim it to size). I also have a roll of Wilsonart 4'x8' just sitting there.

So, are you saying lam one side, lam no sides, lam both sides, do whatever?

Burt


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Burt

"Do do whatever", if you have it on hand use it but it's not needed just one more thing to bow/lift up and in time some do...I have a top in the back room that the edges are coming up..and only after 3 years..that's why many rap the edges with wood to keep it from lifting up..the edges are the weak point for most laminated tops..

=========



Zurt said:


> Bob J,
> It appears that your top is not laminated at all. True? My top is already glued and just waiting for me to do something (like trim it to size). I also have a roll of Wilsonart 4'x8' just sitting there.
> 
> So, are you saying lam one side, lam no sides, lam both sides, do whatever?
> ...


----------



## Zurt (Oct 27, 2010)

Interesting about your edges. In Norm's DVD, he biscuits the edges. Initially, I thought that was a bit overkill but he did say his first table was over 8 years old so I may opt for that method as well.

On the other hand, any table I build will outlast me. Ain't no spring chicken no mo'.

Burt


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Burt


But you know that Norm is the biscuit king, I think he would them for a simple TP holder..

===========



Zurt said:


> Interesting about your edges. In Norm's DVD, he biscuits the edges. Initially, I thought that was a bit overkill but he did say his first table was over 8 years old so I may opt for that method as well.
> 
> On the other hand, any table I build will outlast me. Ain't no spring chicken no mo'.
> 
> Burt


----------



## amaonline (Jan 1, 2011)

Mine is over 8 yrs and doing just fine (laminate on one side)flat as a pancake. You mention a "roll" of Wilsonart? Unroll it and lay it flat for a while before applying it...you won't be sorry.


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Hi Burt
have you got any photo's of your progress? I would love to see some.

I'm in the process of building my first router table. I have made my top out of inch thick hardwood ply with it supported underneath with ply boxed in. I have given it a coat of wax to help with friction and hopefully protect to a certain extent. I have noticed though in the short time I have made the top because I use it as an extension for my table saw the ply is already being scuffed. I need to take more care. That is probably another reason for laminating, it gives that little bit more protection

Cheers Si


----------



## bigtex52 (Jul 12, 2009)

I used a product called laminate backer on the bottom side of my top. It basically is a thin phenolic sheet that is just like the bottom layers of standard laminate. Pretty cheap (less than 1/2 the price of laminate) and does a great job.


----------



## dccreamer (May 19, 2010)

*Help a "newbie"*

What is HLP?


----------



## MuzzleMike (Feb 23, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Burt
> 
> 
> But you know that Norm is the biscuit king, I think he would them for a simple TP holder..
> ...


I think he would use nothing but biscuits . :lol:

I would laminate both sides and rap the edges with wood .

Mike


----------



## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

dccreamer said:


> What is HLP?


I believe the poster meant HPL = High Pressure Laminate. The Internet gets confusing, doesn't it?


----------



## ATLbound (Feb 8, 2011)

MuzzleMike said:


> I think he would use nothing but biscuits . :lol:
> 
> I would laminate both sides and rap the edges with wood .
> 
> Mike


And a few pins to hold it while the glue dries.

After putting on the most important safety device 8)


----------



## jgremlin (Jan 27, 2011)

bigtex52 said:


> I used a product called laminate backer on the bottom side of my top. It basically is a thin phenolic sheet that is just like the bottom layers of standard laminate. Pretty cheap (less than 1/2 the price of laminate) and does a great job.


Anyone have a source for this stuff? Typing laminate backer into Google didn't reveal much.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Just about any of the BIG box stores, look for the cut offs in the back or in the rack to save some money.


=======



jgremlin said:


> Anyone have a source for this stuff? Typing laminate backer into Google didn't reveal much.


----------



## Tempest (Jan 7, 2011)

Phenolic backer is used as a cheaper way to balance out the tendency of one sided laminate sheets to cup. The panel warps because the laminate is stronger and more stable than the substrate.

You'd have to go to an professional wood supply house to find it as it is usually used by cabinet shops to save cost over using full laminate on both sides. We use a lot at work when laying up panels in a press.

It is NOT a "show" material and is rough.


----------

