# Where is Jerry



## billyjim (Feb 11, 2012)

I haven't seen any posts from Jerry for a while. Hope all is well with him. His posts are oftentimes a launching point for some interesting discussions and I look forward to reading them.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

billyjim said:


> I haven't seen any posts from Jerry for a while. Hope all is well with him. His posts are oftentimes a launching point for some interesting discussions and I look forward to reading them.





Bill,
I'm still here. I've kept my head down working on my first cedar chest build. I have been being coached and encouraged by three members of the forum, Harry Sinclair, Dick Willis, and Bill? one of the moderators . These three guys have made the build extremely interesting, they are well versed int making sawdust and also very willing to help and to encourage.

The chest has been mentioned on the forum before, but to recap, Bill suggested that I consider using QS white oak which I am using. Dick suggested that the purchase of a pneumatic nailer, that was a great suggestion in regard for some some with the cedar lining, Harry and I have regrouped and his encouragement and approval is greatly appreciated. The list of help suggestion is quite long so I won't go into all of them here. 

The issus of "biscuits or dowels" was an interesting thread, I went with dowels and just can't say enough good about the JessEm product. I did have to redrill two holes due to operator error, but the entire frame is all doweled and fits just fine.

One of the issues that has come up is that of dealing with glue lines at the joints. I have used Titebond III Dick is thinking that Titebone II might have been a better choice, I have orders some of it to try later on the lid which is another area to tell you about. 

Harry warned me about not building the lid until the main part of the chest was done. Now I understand why as there were a few design modifications along the way that would have caused the first attempt at building the lid to not work even if it had turned out well, which it didn't. I had not taken Harry's advise about using biscuits and the lid slipped in the frame slightly during clamp up. This led to the purchase of a Bosch six inch ROS and the discovery 3X ceramic sand paper, I give Both Bill and Stick credit for this discovery. 

The bad news is that the sander and the paper did not remedy the error and I had to give up on the first lid construction attempt, I'll start over later, and by the way Harry, I will heed your advise on the biscuits to get the frame for the lid to line up with the lid properly this time. Oh, the lessons of not heeding good advise, while well learned, can sure eat up time in attempting to overcome the mistakes.

This morning I installed the floor using pocket hole screws. The cedar lining was installed on the floor before it was put in place.

The temperatures here in West Texas have been and still are killers so the shop time is very limited.

I will attach some photos to show what the project is looking like so far.

Thanks for the interest in me Bill, makes me feel better, I was a bit concerned about starting a thread that caused a bit of heart burn for some of the members, so I felt that maybe I should back off for a bit.

Jerry


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Your build is coming along nicely, Jerry. I'm curious, what is the issue between Titebond III and Titebond II for glue lines?


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Gaffboat said:


> Your build is coming along nicely, Jerry. I'm curious, what is the issue between Titebond III and Titebond II for glue lines?



Oliver,
You need to ask Dick Willis about that, he just suggested it and so far I don't know from experience, but I do know that Dick knows about these things, what ever Dick tells me to try I try it. Harry, you've about got me broke to lead too, hope that makes you feel a little better about that.

Jerry


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## BCK (Feb 23, 2014)

nice...thx for sharing


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Your project is coming along nicely. Good job. Thanks for posting the pics. I like pics. 

I think Titebond III leaves a darker brown line when it is dry. At least, I think that is what it does.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

MT Stringer said:


> Your project is coming along nicely. Good job. Thanks for posting the pics. I like pics.
> 
> I think Titebond III leaves a darker brown line when it is dry. At least, I think that is what it does.



Mike,
I'm sure that is what Dick is referring to, as I said, I don't know yet but will try in as the build continures.

Jerry


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Your project is coming along nicely Jerry. I also think that the dark brown glue line is the point. Titebond glues, especially 2 and 3 have become most peoples go to glue but there are not necessarily the best in all situations. Weldbond has equal holding power and dries clear and is also recommended for many uses that Titebond is not. Harry will back me up on this as I have seen him recommend it before.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Your project is coming along nicely Jerry. I also think that the dark brown glue line is the point. Titebond glues, especially 2 and 3 have become most peoples go to glue but there are not necessarily the best in all situations. Weldbond has equal holding power and dries clear and is also recommended for many uses that Titebond is not. Harry will back me up on this as I have seen him recommend it before.


Charles,
This is a classic example of why this forum is of such value. I for one, would not have known about Weldbond had you not posted what you did, I now know, will get some of it and the glue line problem should be solved. Thanks for the heads up on the matter. As I recall Bill did some experiments with different glues recently and came up with similar conclusions.

As everybody knows that have folloeed my threads and posts, I was pretty heavy into precision shootins earlier in my life. There was a common statement in that circle that precision shooting was just a matter of paying attention to the details. I think that the statement is applicable to high end woodsorking and these fine details are often to be found on this outstanding forum. Maybe someday I will contribute a tid bit that will be of value to somebody, right now, for the most part, I have and am on the receiving end of all of this good information. Thanks again Charles.

Jerry


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Glad I could help Jerry and you've been the source of many worthwhile discussions so I would say that you've already contributed.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Glad I could help Jerry and you've been the source of many worthwhile discussions so I would say that you've already contributed.



Charles,
I immediately order a bottle of Weldwood after posting to you post about the product.

Jerry


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You have to be careful if you order online Jerry. There is Weldwood and Weldbond which are different. This is the one I meant http://www.amazon.com/Weldbond-8-120125-Adhesive-4-Ounce-Bottle/dp/B000H5OKN6

The Weldwood glues are also worth looking at for special applications. They make the contact cement we commonly use when making counter tops but they also make other products including a plastic resin glue.

Some of Weldwood's products- DAP Products - Specialty Adhesives - Construction Adhesives

The Titebond isn't a problem when you are working with dark woods but if you are working with something really light colored like maple, birch, or ash then the brown glue line can really stand out. I think Titebond really managed to capture a lot of market share by touting the water resistant nature of their glue but in truth the water resistance is vary rarely needed so almost any popular wood glue will do the job. In some applications Titebond may not be a good choice such as tightly fitting joints. I find the Titebond 3 a little thick for some joints like that and the Weldbond or a urethane is a better choice for those. Lee Valley sells a glue called 202GF that is thick like T3 and the GF stands for gap filling which worked well with loose or average joints but I split the wood occasionally using it on tight fitting joints. As much as we would like to simplify things, one solution doesn't always work. This a little long winded maybe but I hope there is some info in it that you can use.


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## david_de (Jun 3, 2013)

The project looks great. Lots of good info in the comments as well. People posting and the discussions in the threads are what keep us coming back.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

[


Charles,
Heck, I don't know what I ordered so I just ordered the one you sent the link to, can't have to much adhesive around the shop.

Jerry


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Hi, Billy.
It looks like Jerry has been busy lately. 
Glad for you, Jerry. Do not hesitate to post in the forum.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Below is the test board Jerry mentioned for various kinds of glue. I was curious as to exactly how dark the glued dried. I wasn't surprised by the Titebond products since I've been using them pretty much exclusively for some time. The Weldbond product did not dry perfectly clear but was head and shoulders above the Titebond with regards to opacity. The think about the Weldbond I don't care for it the short open time. I find cleanup squeeze out etc. with the Weldbond product a bit of a pain as well. The big surprise was the Elmers Clear glue product. The Elmers clear dried the clearest of all the glues I tried. This completely unscientific experiment was geared towards which glue would be best suited for fillers. Strength and holding capacity of each glue wasn't even considered. IN case you have trouble reading my scribbling the glues used are from left to right: 

Titebond II
Titebond III
Titebond No run, no drip
Titebond Translucent
Weldbond
Elmers Clear
Elmers Glue All
Pro Glue High Performance PVA (I use this stuff for veneering)
Titebond Med. CA. 

The wood used was a scrap piece of Baltic Birch ply..

Again, let me stress, this is little more than several different types of glue put onto a piece of plywood... Your mileage may vary...


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks Bill for doing the comparison. I downloaded your picture for future reference. Hope you don't mind.
Mike


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Doggone it Bill. I thought I had narrowed my woodworking glues down to Titebond 3, Weldbond, Melamine glue, Lee Valley's fish glue, and a urethane glue. Now I gotta start experimenting again.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Updated photo of the next step in the cedar chest build. The surfaces will clean up when sanded and finished later.

Jerry


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

That's looking fantastic, Jerry! Can't wait to see the finished product! I don't have the guts to build those sort of things, as they require precision, and I don't have the patience :lol:


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

MT Stringer said:


> Thanks Bill for doing the comparison. I downloaded your picture for future reference. Hope you don't mind.
> Mike


Not in the least Mike.. glad you found it to be of some value...next go around I'm gonna play around with mixing up a filler with each brand and see how well that works out...


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Doggone it Bill. I thought I had narrowed my woodworking glues down to Titebond 3, Weldbond, Melamine glue, Lee Valley's fish glue, and a urethane glue. Now I gotta start experimenting again.



Sometimes I think we have way to many choices available to us. 

Experiment... thats something that I've been suggesting that Jerry do.. Just experiment. try this, try that, see what works for ya and what don't...Honestly, I hope that I never get to the point where I don't have to experiment any more...


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Sorry about being late with this explanation of not using Titebond III on light colored wood. Titebond III is mainly a water proof glue, and has a much much darker glueline than Titebond II. Do you really need a waterproof glue for furniture? The strength diference between the 2 glues is negligible, I refer those who doubt the point of the glue line color to this article;

Titebond III dries nearly black? - by n00b @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community 

Dick


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Weldbond adhesive is available at the big orange box store


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

billyjim said:


> I haven't seen any posts from Jerry for a while. Hope all is well with him. His posts are oftentimes a launching point for some interesting discussions and I look forward to reading them.


You have a valid concern . Were noticing a high mortality rate amongst senior citizens here in BC


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