# Pen Boxes ... Work in Progress



## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

These are for some Christmas gifts. I have already turned the pens and now working on the boxes. They will be about 3 1/4 in depth and 7 3/4 long. Bases are 3/4 walnut and the tops are 3/8 maple. 

Yesterday I built a new template holder as the previous one was just too shallow. This one works better and I also made this one to fit my Milescraft Spirocrafter. I used Template Tom's method of making a template... however I didnt' get a good glue joint on the lower part and it broke but it works fine that way and is actually allows me to use this one easier for making a one slot box. 

I will post photos as I go along if you like. This is my first time making anything like this. I used a 1 inch guide in the router and a 5/8 dish cutter bit that I got from Oak Park. Neat little router bit! 

Photo 1 - The new template holder.










Photo 2 - The template and the cutter. 










Photo 3 - The 1 inch guide in the router. 










Photo 4 - The workpiece in the holder with the furniture blocking in place. 










Photo 5 - The template in place over the workpiece and ready to begin routing. 










Photo 6 - The first slot is routed. It was done in 4-5 passes to a depth of 5/8" and the remaining slot was routed in this work piece and 2 more as well. 










Photo 7 - The final routed pieces. I was pleased how they turned out. Slick little router bit. Before I came to Router Forums I would never have even considered doing something like this. I don't like making templates but beats the heck out of paying 25.00 for one. 










After messing around further it became apparent that the pen box will not close flat on the pen so I will need to route the tops 1/8 deep as well. I am also undecided as to whether I want to make these hinged boxes or sliding dovetails. Still thinking on it. 

More to come... thanks for looking!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Looking good, can wait to see the finish box

============


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Some additional shots after routing the tops. 

Photo 8 - Completed routing of box top. 










Photos 9 & 10 - Box bases and tops. 


















More to come, Now to think about how I want to finish them, with hinges or sliding dovetails. Thinking that for pen boxes hinges are more functional. Now kerf hinges or barrel hinges  Thanks for looking.

Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Bob! I appreciate it. 

corey


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Corey,

GREAT creativity on finding an excellent way to make those. I will be following this thread closely as you already know that it is a project I need to master as well. 

Thanks for taking the time to do and share an excellent WIP with us bottom feeders  

btw.... after further thought, the hinge route may work best after all.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

challagan said:


> Some additional shots after routing the tops.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hi Corey,

Looking real good!

How deep are you making each groove for the pens?

I would think close to 1/2+ a tad of the pen diameter would be desired.

... just curious...

Do you also make more than one cutting pass?

Again, looks good!!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Bob! I am thinking kerf hinges at this point  

Thanks Joe, as per photo 6 the grooves are 5/8 deep and done in 4-5 passes. It just depended on how far I plunged it the first time. I just set the max depth and cut it in stages. Tried to cut about 1/8 on the last pass. 

Thanks all,

Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

OK, on to the hinges. I decided that hinges were the way to go. Just seems for a pen box an easy open box is better. I decided to use the kerf hinges as well. I used the smaller of the hinges I have, not sure on the size. 

Photo 11 - This is my set up for cutting the kerfs for the hinges. The arbor and blade are chucked up in the drill press and I have my sled set up as well. Basically you must lock in 2 measurements. The forward travel must be set to bottom out before it blows thru the top on the 3/8 maple. That same setting will be used on the walnut but there isn't any chance to blow thru the 3/4 walnut. The stop is set to approx 9/32nds which is half the size of the hing and should put the barrel of the hinge right in the middle. I also set it up to cut 1/4 inch from the back edge and 1/4 inch in from the sides. I do all of the left sides and then flip everything and cut the right sides. When flipping it I only need to set the stop in from the side. 










Photo 12 - Live shot cutting the right side of one of the 3/8 maple top piece. 










Photo 13 - Live shot cutting the right side of the 3/4 walnut base piece.










Photo 14 - All the kerfs have been cut in all 6 pieces of stock. This is a shot of how the kerfs look when done. 










Photo 15 - This shot shows when the hinges are installed in the work piece for fit. Note that I have flattened the barbs out on this set of hinges and they are used for testing and slip fitting. The next step will be to put a rabbet down the back of the box that the barrel of of the hinge will sit in. Then a 45 degree chamfer will be made on both pieces to allow the top to open back and stay open. 










Photos -16 - The last shot for the day... another shot of the hinge slip fitted in. 










Tomorrow I will pull out the mini router table and chuck up a 3 /8 straight bit in the Colt and make the rabbets on all work pieces and then set the chamfers. Once that is done it is a matter of round overs and sanding. I am surprised at how much I got done today on these and happy with the progress so far. 

More to follow... thanks for looking.

Corey


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Looking really good there Corey. Keep up the good work.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Very nice Corey, and Harry and I are loving the pictures. Keep them coming.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Very slick Corey I need to get some of the hinges , can you post the link again for them..

Just asking why are you still using the drill press to put the slots in,, I think I just recalled why , they are scary to use in the router table and the be Jesus will show up again..


Keep the picture coming bud

===========


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Very slick Corey I need to get some of the hinges , can you post the link again for them..
> 
> Just asking why are you still using the drill press to put the slots in,, I think I just recalled why , they are scary to use in the router table and the be Jesus will show up again..
> 
> ...


I will get you the links Bob. Yeah, I am not comfortable doing it in the router table. Doug Stowe does but it will probably smoke the blades in real hard material... but they are cheap anyway at Grizzly! BTW, anyone wanting to get the arbor and saw blades don't get them from Rockler or Woodcraft. You will pay way to much for the same thing you can get at Grizzly! They cost 30.00 for the arbor and 20.00 for the blades from those other sources and Grizzly sells the exact same thing for much much less. I will post all the links!

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Corey my friend, you really have been paying attention, I and I'm sure Tom when he sees this thread will be very proud that another member has taken to template making and plunge routing. There could be few members who would not agree that the way you have made these boxes was easier, safer, more accurate and more pleasurable than using the router table. Just one point, whilst in this case there was room for the router to move freely within the jig holder, normally the template would be slightly higher than the sides so that the router is not obstructed, this is achieved by placing a piece of suitable thickness MDF into the jig holder first, followed by the jig, material and finally the template. I haven't seen hinges fitted like this and am having difficulty understanding how the box can open as there is so much overhanging box/lid.
You're photo-shoot was of course of a very high standard. You comparative youngsters who have taken to this method of routing will soon be overtaking this old geezer, I think that I might have to book some more lessons with Template Tom in the hope of keeping slightly ahead! Keep up the good work Corey.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Very slick Corey I need to get some of the hinges , can you post the link again for them..
> 
> Just asking why are you still using the drill press to put the slots in,, I think I just recalled why , they are scary to use in the router table and the be Jesus will show up again..
> 
> ...


Here's what you don't want to buy due to cost:
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3744
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18652&filter=Hinge Arbor

Here is what you want to buy, same thing:

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Slitting-Saw-Arbor/G1438

http://www.grizzly.com/products/HSS-Slitting-Saws-2-x-1-16-x-1-2-28T/G9466

http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2007/Main/614

Hinges, I do buy these from either Rockler or Woodcraft:

http://www.rockler.com/search_results.cfm?filter=Hinge+Arbor&submit.x=0&submit.y=0

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3744 

Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Ken and Dave. Harry thanks! You are right on the sides of course. I tested that prior to beginning that there would be no interrupted travel so I went with it. Otherwise I would of needed to raise the template. I have a 1/2 base that I made to fit in that holder that can be seen in some of the other photos. Much happier with this holder than the previous one. 

Harry, it will become evident tomorrow on the hinges. Most of that material will be removed in the next steps. First a rabbet will be cut that that the barrel of the hinge will sit in. That's the hard part, not making it to big. Then using a 45 degree chamfer bit I will chamfer the top and bottom using trial and error to the point that they top opens up and has a built in stop. 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Now it's making sense Corey, I'll have difficulty sleeping tonight waiting to see the next stages. It's obvious that you are getting a kick out of this project, I can foresee all the forums pen makers taking this path, it's so repeatable. A thought has just occurred to me regarding making the hinge slots which looked like a lot of fiddling to get the set-up just right. I wonder if the slotting blade could be fitted into a biscuit jointer, if it could, cutting the slots would take just seconds, just a thought, I'm sure Bj. will suss out any snags in my thinking.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

harrysin said:


> Now it's making sense Corey, I'll have difficulty sleeping tonight waiting to see the next stages. It's obvious that you are getting a kick out of this project, I can foresee all the forums pen makers taking this path, it's so repeatable. A thought has just occurred to me regarding making the hinge slots which looked like a lot of fiddling to get the set-up just right. I wonder if the slotting blade could be fitted into a biscuit jointer, if it could, cutting the slots would take just seconds, just a thought, I'm sure Bj. will suss out any snags in my thinking.


Harry, that I am not sure on, however, it sounds like a lot of fussing but it took me about 15 minutes and i was cutting the first slot on the drill press and i am a fusser .. remeasuring and remeasuring  The sled just takes a few minutes to make.. just a piece of plywood and a fence screwed on to it. Shallow side used for lids like this and deeper side to the camera is used for traditional made boxes. It can be done on the router table as well but that raises the pucker factor for me and I like the rpm involved on the drill press. 
I really like these hinges. I can do these fine, but I have a hell of a time with the little 5mm barrel hinges!

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

What diameter is the slotting blade Corey?


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

harrysin said:


> What diameter is the slotting blade Corey?


Harry, I believe that one is either 2 inches or 2 1/4 inches in diameter and .025 thick. Harry, am I dreaming it or do I remember you picking up a blade arbor like this at the woodworking show several months ago when you got your Triton router?

corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

"I wonder if the slotting blade could be fitted into a biscuit jointer "

Nope,,,the error comes into play becasue of the size of hole (arbor size) in most biscuit jointers ,they use a big blade ( 4" blade the norm) you get a blade to fit but it would be to big in the OD and it's needs to real thin blade in order to get the hinges to work right..if I recall the blade that Corey is using is about 1 3/4" OD (sliting saw blade,HSS ) 

=========


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

challagan said:


> Harry, I believe that one is either 2 inches or 2 1/4 inches in diameter and .025 thick. Harry, am I dreaming it or do I remember you picking up a blade arbor like this at the woodworking show several months ago when you got your Triton router?
> 
> corey


I knew I wasn't dreaming! Man you have uploaded a bunch of pics  

Corey


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

Corey
Great to see you are having success using the template guides. Like Harry I was a bit concerned when I saw the hinge you are going to insert. I was given a pair some time ago but never got round to inserting them in a small box.
I hope you do not mind me posting how I see how they can be Fitted. The box will open up to an angle of 90 degrees and of course this can be altered to another angle greater than 90 by altering the chamfer angle (45 at present)
Tom


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

template tom said:


> Corey
> Great to see you are having success using the template guides. Like Harry I was a bit concerned when I saw the hinge you are going to insert. I was given a pair some time ago but never got round to inserting them in a small box.
> I hope you do not mind me posting how I see how they can be Fitted. The box will open up to an angle of 90 degrees and of course this can be altered to another angle greater than 90 by altering the chamfer angle (45 at present)
> Tom


Hi Tom and thanks! Tom your drawing is very close. The barrel of the hinge has to sit in a tiny rebate and then the chamfer. The hinge leaf is not offset to the degree in your drawing but very close. Very much the same as a 5mm barrel hinge other than these need a rebate for the hinge barrel to sit in so it does not bind. As you say the chamfer controls the degree to which the box lid tilts back on itself. 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

challagan said:


> Harry, I believe that one is either 2 inches or 2 1/4 inches in diameter and .025 thick. Harry, am I dreaming it or do I remember you picking up a blade arbor like this at the woodworking show several months ago when you got your Triton router?
> 
> corey


You have a very good memory Corey, yes I did buy a new slitting blade and multi-step arbor in addition to the one I had that's used for metal cutting.
As you and Bj. can see in the shot, blades are all about 3" dia. SO, IF I do get a wood lathe, and if I do manage to turn pens, and if I do make boxes for them, THEN I will make an adaptor and try the biscuit jointer!
I have in front of me a catalogue showing slitting blades 40mm, 60mm, 75mm and 110mm diameter with thickness of 0.3mm, 0.5mm, 0.8mm, 1.00mm, 1.2mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm and 3mm. with bores of 13mm, 16mm and 1"


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Hey that is cool Harry, man I don't even know how to go about getting inside to change the blade of my B-joiner  Note on my hinges, I didn't need to set them that far inside i could of gotten by with half that distance but I wanted the hinge to lean back past 90 and I wanted them to be set in good and solid. Have a good one, time for bed!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey Corey

What type of bit are you using to put the slots in...?

One more question have you tried to using 3 saw blades,one the right size for the slot and one on each side of that blade just a smaller in dia. to put the rebate in at the same time ?, to hold the barrel of the hinge...

by stacking the 3 blades below
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g9466
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g9468
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g9466


That's a real neat and quick way to put in hinges in a box,yep I need to get some of them, now if I can just find them just a bit cheaper.. 

====


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hey Corey
> 
> What type of bit are you using to put the slots in...?
> 
> ...


Hi Bj, per photo 2 I think there is a picture of it, the cutter is a 5/8 dish cutter that I got from Oak Park. Worked real well. As far as stacking that may be possible but I am having a hard time envisioning it here... the rebate is very shallow... only about 1/32nd tops on each piece and then the chamfer bit does the rest  Have to think about that! Thanks Bj,

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"That's a real neat and quick way to put in hinges in a box,yep I need to get some of them, now if I can just find them just a bit cheaper.."

Stop being such a cheapskate Bj., if you swapped just one of you're shares you would have more hinges than you could use in a lifetime! so send a boxful over here. On a serious note, if you workout a simple way of fitting these hinges please let us all know.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

*Hinge Info*

Harry here are the instructions, it really isn't hard to do. I just add a couple stops to my carriage and in the photo you can see the longer board hanging out.. that just acts as a fence on the side so I can slide it forward and keep it lined up. Hope this helps. As hinges go they are fairly expensive for no bigger than they are but I guess that is the way of specialty items. This method of hinging is used more in mass production than anything else. I just think it's easy myself and I don't have to mortice  For some reason the little 5 mm hinges kick my ass!

http://www2.woodcraft.com/pdf/77B76.pdf

Some additional info from Rockler:
http://images.rockler.com/tech/RTD10000246AA.pdf
Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I don't mind spending it ,,,I just order 4 router table base plates just in case I need them,,,,  ,,,,,and the hinges are next I just hate to buy something at a high price when I know if I just do just a bit of home work I can find them just a bit lower... and buy them by the box of 100 or 144 per. box,,

I just did a bit of looking at the blades so I can put them in on the router table, I think the slot cutter can do it quick and easy but will need to play with it some time Monday , I just got a new 1/16" slot cutter with the bearing on the shank and that just may do the trick...just need to make a jig to hold the box (any box) true for both slots...the wheels started spining just after Corey did his great post.. 


================



harrysin said:


> "That's a real neat and quick way to put in hinges in a box,yep I need to get some of them, now if I can just find them just a bit cheaper.."
> 
> Stop being such a cheapskate Bj., if you swapped just one of you're shares you would have more hinges than you could use in a lifetime! so send a boxful over here. On a serious note, if you workout a simple way of fitting these hinges please let us all know.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> I don't mind spending it ,,,I just order 4 router table base plates just in case I need them,,,,  ,,,,,and the hinges are next I just hate to buy something at a high price when I know if I just do just a bit of home work I can find them just a bit lower... and buy them by the box of 100 or 144 per. box,,
> 
> ...


Looking forward to seeing that BJ with interest. Note that these hinges are very thin I think a 1/16 kerf will make too large of a hole and the barbs on the hinges won't have much to grab on to. The saw blade for these small ones is a .025 thick. So curious if this will work or not. I also noticed that these blades have 60 teeth, the ones from Grizzly only have 28 Teeth ?? 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bud

I was out in the shop playing with it,,,I found one blade that is .025 thick and a arbor that is just the right size to hold it with a 1/2" shank and the top cap is 5/8" OD just the right size and with 28 teeth ,it put the slot in just like butter and as clean as whistle and about 5/8" deep ..
I put on some stop block on the fence and push the board in for the base and the top and they are right on the button now if I had some hinges I could test them out , but I will need to to wait until I find a good price on them, they are expensive little suckers...but I'm almost sure they come from over seas in the bulk....maybe  I just need to run it down...

I use the Colt to put the slot in, at it's lowest speed on the router, that little router is great.. 

I like them because no screws are needed, nice and clean...

I used the bit below
http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1530

Bj
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challagan said:


> Looking forward to seeing that BJ with interest. Note that these hinges are very thin I think a 1/16 kerf will make too large of a hole and the barbs on the hinges won't have much to grab on to. The saw blade for these small ones is a .025 thick. So curious if this will work or not. I also noticed that these blades have 60 teeth, the ones from Grizzly only have 28 Teeth ??
> 
> Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

*Day 2 - Router Table Work*

Well I got up this morning and headed for the shop. First on the agenda was to do the milling that would allow the hinges to operate properly. 

Photo 17 - The mini router table all ready to go with the shop vac hooked up, 3/8 straight bit in the table. 









Photo 18 - Milling the rabbet in work piece. 









Photo 19 & 20 - Rebate is now cut with hinges barrel sitting in the rebate. 

















Photo 21 - Ready to mill the chamfers that will allow the lid to open to at least 90 degrees. 









Photo 22 & 23- Chamfer has been milled. 

















Photo 24 - Hinge slip fitted and lid now opens to 90 degrees. 









Photo 25 & 26 - Ready to round over the box parts. 

















Photo 27, 28, 29 & 30- Trio of boxes after rounding over .. ready for sanding. One of the boxes I rounded over all edges. I really like the look of this one. 

































Photo 31 - Boxes after final sanding. Now ready for finishing









Well finishing is next and headed down to put first coats of danish oil on. Just a note the hinges will not be permanently installed until after finishing is complete. More to come and thanks for looking!

Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

*With A Little Oil*

Finished sanding and have put the first coat of finish which is danish oil. I will let this cure for a day or two and then put on some gloss poly which will need to cure and then I will rub out with steel wool and paste wax. 

Corey

Photo's 32 & 33 - Boxes with first coats of danish oil on them.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Corey,

Those really turned out fantastic. The oil finish really looks nice and shows the true quality of wood and workmanship.

I for one really apperciate you taking the time to present this photo tour of the project.

Great job and a keeper in my inspiration files


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bob N said:


> Corey,
> 
> Those really turned out fantastic. The oil finish really looks nice and shows the true quality of wood and workmanship.
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob, I appreciate it. Put another coat of Danish oil on and will let that sit and start putting on the poly next. 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Many thanks Corey for the pdf, which with the rest of you're fine photo-shoot has made it all very clear. What a fabulous job you have done on the boxes and shots, you're going to be on a high for some time!
When I get around to use this type of hinge, I think my easiest way to make the slots will be in my milling machine which has an X Y table so it would only need the box clamping to the table and the depth of cut controlled by winding the table towards the blade and then winding the table sideways for the second cut.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

OK Harry

It's your turn ,,I got my 50 on the way and should have them by Wed./Thur.next week now it's time to get you to try it..  I got 10 pair of each to try them out ,from Rockler.. 



http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...trksid=p3984.cTODAY.m238.lVI#ebayphotohosting

=========





harrysin said:


> Many thanks Corey for the pdf, which with the rest of you're fine photo-shoot has made it all very clear. What a fabulous job you have done on the boxes and shots, you're going to be on a high for some time!
> When I get around to use this type of hinge, I think my easiest way to make the slots will be in my milling machine which has an X Y table so it would only need the box clamping to the table and the depth of cut controlled by winding the table towards the blade and then winding the table sideways for the second cut.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

harrysin said:


> Many thanks Corey for the pdf, which with the rest of you're fine photo-shoot has made it all very clear. What a fabulous job you have done on the boxes and shots, you're going to be on a high for some time!
> When I get around to use this type of hinge, I think my easiest way to make the slots will be in my milling machine which has an X Y table so it would only need the box clamping to the table and the depth of cut controlled by winding the table towards the blade and then winding the table sideways for the second cut.


That sounds perfect Harry for the job. Thanks for the kind words on the boxes. I just realized I forgot to put the little finger slot on the front of the 2 boxes with a core box bit... Damnit! Maybe I still will. I think they would look better. 

corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Bud
> 
> I was out in the shop playing with it,,,I found one blade that is .025 thick and a arbor that is just the right size to hold it with a 1/2" shank and the top cap is 5/8" OD just the right size and with 28 teeth ,it put the slot in just like butter and as clean as whistle and about 5/8" deep ..
> I put on some stop block on the fence and push the board in for the base and the top and they are right on the button now if I had some hinges I could test them out , but I will need to to wait until I find a good price on them, they are expensive little suckers...but I'm almost sure they come from over seas in the bulk....maybe  I just need to run it down...
> ...


Missed your post BJ. Thanks I feel much better paying 2.50 vs 20.00 for a little 2 inch blade  That is why I warmed up to them so much...no screws. I see you ordered a bunch of hinges. When you get them take one set of each and pound the barbs flat on them and you can use those for test fitting the depth of holes when slotting them out. It will save you having to do it again or ripping them bastards out and ruining the slot cause those barbs lock in real good! I drill them just a tad deeper than the hinge leaf but sometimes you are sure you got it all the way only to test it and you got to go back and giver one more shot. 

I found this today as well:
http://www.atcoproducts.com/barhin17.html
It sounds like they manufacture these in New Jersey. They don't list prices as you have to inquire about it... also sell blades and arbors.
Corey


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

Well done Corey. I suppose the back could be further reduced in size to leave a smaller chamfer.

In one of your slots to the right hand side I picked a slight error in the groove could this have been a slight movement of your template in the process? It is important that the template is held secure. It could also be that the material moved slightly again this should be held secure. (In both instances this has also happened to me in my early stages of using this method) Please forgive be for pointing out the slight fault as I am sure you will want to produce the others perfect.

Corey you have embraced the method of using the guides very well and I only hope others will see the benefits of at least giving the guides a go.

Many thaks for sumitting the pictures which gives a clear picture of all the stages involved. I can sit back now and leave it all to Harry Bob Greg and youself. I look forward to seeing more projects using the template method. Thanks once more
Tom


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Tom thank you. The reason for the little whooptydoo is not because the template wasn't held tight but because the template slot is actually 1 inch and about 1/32nd and I didn't realize that until I began. I later fixed this by running down one side and then back the other way but missed one and maybe another. Template making isn't my favorite part but necessary. On the hinges I really could of gotten buy with about 3/16 depth on this and wish I had thought to reduce the back on them before I started finishing them. Anyway, all in all I am happy with them and hopefully the recipients will be too. Thanks again,

Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> OK Harry
> 
> It's your turn ,,I got my 50 on the way and should have them by Wed./Thur.next week now it's time to get you to try it..  I got 10 pair of each to try them out ,from Rockler..
> 
> ...


Bob, I will be interested in seeing how you like these, especially the the one with the spring in it. 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Me too ,, the one with the spring in looks like a neat way to go ,,,I use magnets for the latch and it would be nice if the spring would do the same job..

....................




challagan said:


> Bob, I will be interested in seeing how you like these, especially the the one with the spring in it.
> 
> Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

You mean the Earth Magnets? THat is something I want to get a supply of as well! 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Yep,they work great and are easy to put in and they hold well,and they are hard to see once in place,,I have 4 sizes,, strong little suckers  I just drill a small hole and put just a bit of glue in the holes and they are set to stay..I use two for each latch...only one latch is needed for a box or door..

Buy the way did I say THANK YOU for the links and tips and for posting all the snapshots if not I'm saying it now THANK YOU   for taking the time to do all that work.. 

Magnetics ▼
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=10

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challagan said:


> You mean the Earth Magnets? THat is something I want to get a supply of as well!
> 
> Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Corey
> 
> Yep,they work great and are easy to put in and they hold well,and they are hard to see once in place,,I have 4 sizes,, strong little suckers  I just drill a small hole and put just a bit of glue in the holes and they are set to stay..I use two for each latch...only one latch is needed for a box or door..
> 
> ...


Oh hell you are welcome Bj, doesn't even compare to everything you post dailey Bj ! Started the poly tonight... these will be hard to finish with having two sides that need finished. 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Corey, are you really going to give them away? All my early projects used to sit on the coffee table so that I could sit and admire and keep touching them night after night while watching the TV! Only when I produced a better version would I give them away as presents.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I will confirm that Corey gives them away I have TWO of his great pens  or should say my BOSS has two of them ,she saw them and said thank you and that was it...I have not got my hands on them after that...see gets all the good stuff 




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harrysin said:


> Corey, are you really going to give them away? All my early projects used to sit on the coffee table so that I could sit and admire and keep touching them night after night while watching the TV! Only when I produced a better version would I give them away as presents.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Harry, yup I have plenty of projects to look at and admire if I wish to in the cabinet. Too many actually. These will be gifts and that's ok with me.... usually by the time I am done with a project I am ready for it to be out of the shop and somewhere else  

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> I will confirm that Corey gives them away I have TWO of his great pens  or should say my BOSS has two of them ,she saw them and said thank you and that was it...I have not got my hands on them after that...see gets all the good stuff
> 
> ...


When do you intend to show us the box Bj?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I'm in a hold pattern waiting for the package to show up from Rockler with the hinges in it..but I was hoping to see yours 1st.  (box with the hinges in it)

I don't run around anymore I let the UPS guy do that for me,,,gas is not cheap anymore and that guy with the brown truck goes by just about every day..

He's like the new St.Nick for me, he always has a box or two for me because I have been a good boy all year long this year.. you can fool some of the people all the time but you can fool all the people all the time...I think that's how that goes.. 

Talking about boxes I just got a new router bit or two one is a double round over bit with bearing that can put on 3/16" OR 1/4" round overs on both top and bottom in one pass on 3/8" to 1 1/2" thick stock,,, can't wait to give this one a test run on the new boxes and for cabinet shelfs.. 




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harrysin said:


> When do you intend to show us the box Bj?


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Corey the pen box looks really good. I'll have to give them a go.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, I have so many projects in the pipeline that I go into the shed in the morning and by the time I decide what to do the day has gone and my evening meal is on the table and NOTHING gets done!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Glenmore said:


> Corey the pen box looks really good. I'll have to give them a go.


Thanks Glenmore, it is a fun project... the jig holder is a fun little project to build. I am not fond of making templates but once you have your template done its a simple operation and a lot of fun. 

Corey


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Corey I'm not fond of making templates either but with something like that I can see where a template would come in handy. A lot cheaper making them then it buying the boxes from the tool stores.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey & Harry and anyone that want's easy way to put in hinges...no screws to split the wood, no screw heads that stick out, just a nice clean way to get the job done...I have not tried it on cabinet doors but in time I will ...just a slot in the face frame (case) and in the door should work just fine..

Here's some snapshots ,, I got the hinges today and played with them just a bit, I was not to sure on the 1st. slot and I held back a little bit = error,,, just in and out quick works the best for me,just like a slot cutter or biscuit machine.

Great way Corey to use and put in hinges, quick and easy...
Thanks for tips and links 


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challagan said:


> Bob, I will be interested in seeing how you like these, especially the the one with the spring in it.
> 
> Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Excellent BJ, looks like you got a good supply, better get on them boxes...lol.

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Corey

I have a box or two I'm going to use them on for now but I see more boxes down the road because it's always been a pain to put the hinges in place...and strip them little screws out 


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challagan said:


> Excellent BJ, looks like you got a good supply, better get on them boxes...lol.
> 
> Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bob, that is why I like them too. My sucess with hinges otherwise is not good, them damn screws twist off etc. I have tried wax, prescrewing with stainless screw the same size etc. Screws up a nice box. What do you think of the bigger ones and the one with the springs? Good for a nice sized box? So far I have only used the smallest ones. Just finished my boxes and taking pics. Hinges took about 5 minutes for all the boxes. I put the test hinges in the finished box so that all is in place and sitting well. Then I make a tiny mark with a exacto blade where the hinges go and then put the real hinges in. That way they are exactly in the right place, no hang overs on the end etc. 

Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

*Finished Boxes...*

Finally after a week in the finishing mode the boxes are done. I finished them with 2 coats of danish oil in and out. Exteriors were finished with about 4 coats of poly and then all surfaces were rubbed out with wax and steel wool. Hinges then were set. Anyway, hope you enjoyed the work in process, I did! Thanks for looking. 

Corey


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

*My pen & box?????????*

Corey if you plan on sending me one for Christmas.  I like the one that is not round over all over. The second from the bottom.  I also prefer the slim line pen.  Really, those are nice looking boxes Corey. Be proud.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

"bigger ones" + just like the little ones, easy to install 

I cut the slot 7/16" deep and it seem to be just right, I want to put one right on the edge about a 1/8" in and see if that would work with out the 45Deg. back cut I think it will becaus they lift up and out when it opens up.
and because the slot is so thin I think it will hold as long as the little hooks are flat just a bit so they don't push the stock out and cack the lid or the base...got to play with that, I use some MDF stock becasue likes to crack if you look at it wrong so we shall see on Sat.
I thinks it's going to be a cold one tonight because all the witches are all wearing 2 coats and you now what they say about witches when it's cold out side, so I think I will stay inside tonight and hit the shop on Sat.

"the one with the springs?" = not to sure about them yet the little spring clip fit any of them with the sq.hole in them they just snap in, but they also just snap out also , and it looks like it needs a little pocket for the clip but I need to play with it just a bit more, it almost looks like once they are in place the spring clip will stay put, maybe without a pocket but it's neat it will hold the lid up and in place when the lid is up at a 90deg..but it will not hold the lid down tight when it's closed...so we see on that one..

"Just finished my boxes and taking pics" , I will go and that a peek at them..

I guess you saw I use the router table to put the slots in with some stop blocks works well that way... I still need to make a jig to push them in I don't care for free hand stuff when it's not safe...but the library is calling me and have a big rolls of drawing paper to use to come up with something..but it could be a two roll Charmin thing they took my sharp pencils away and all have is a big black marker now  



===========







challagan said:


> Bob, that is why I like them too. My sucess with hinges otherwise is not good, them damn screws twist off etc. I have tried wax, prescrewing with stainless screw the same size etc. Screws up a nice box. What do you think of the bigger ones and the one with the springs? Good for a nice sized box? So far I have only used the smallest ones. Just finished my boxes and taking pics. Hinges took about 5 minutes for all the boxes. I put the test hinges in the finished box so that all is in place and sitting well. Then I make a tiny mark with a exacto blade where the hinges go and then put the real hinges in. That way they are exactly in the right place, no hang overs on the end etc.
> 
> Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thank you Dave for the kind works, I appreciate it!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice Job Corey ,Very nice job , take 2 gold stars out of Petty cash box..

They would hold my pair of 50.oo dollar cigars just right LOL LOL ,just kidding bud 




=========









challagan said:


> Finally after a week in the finishing mode the boxes are done. I finished them with 2 coats of danish oil in and out. Exteriors were finished with about 4 coats of poly and then all surfaces were rubbed out with wax and steel wool. Hinges then were set. Anyway, hope you enjoyed the work in process, I did! Thanks for looking.
> 
> Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Corey
> 
> "bigger ones" + just like the little ones, easy to install
> 
> ...


BJ, hope the drawing is going well  Yes I saw you used the router table and the looks like the stop blocks work great. Yes, I would definitely use a jig of some kind. That would raise the pucker factor 

BJ, on these last boxes I did I inset them 1/4 inch. 3/16 inch would probably have been perfect but wasn't sure as this is the first time I have put them in on the face of stock vs the edge like as in a traditional box. Traditional boxes I just use half the thickness of the stock being used myself. When you actually install the hinges you aren't going to flatten out the barbs are you? You want them to lock in and grab otherwise they will lift up like you said. That is my the dado for the hinge barrel and the chamfer is needed. 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

"flatten out the barbs are you?" No I don't think so,,,they do need to stay in place, sharp little suckers...  should hold the hinge well ..but I do like super glue so who knows  ... but the edge thing I want to give a go ... 




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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

OK I got you I didn't understand that previous post is why I asked. Let me know how that works with no chamfer, I am interested ! 

Corey


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