# Interior door casing



## lea137 (Aug 28, 2010)

I'm fairly new to woodworking and have just purchased the Freud 99-465 casing bit. I want to make new casing for the doorways in our kitchen but I'm not entirely certain how to use the bit in the table and how thick the stock should be. The current casing is 3/4" thick, construction grade and is 2 1/4" wide with a 1/4" reveal.

Your thoughts and ideas would be appreciated.

John


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

You should use 2 1/2" wide stock, for that bit to get the full profile of the bit, Make a temp. fence for your router table with some 3/4" thick MDF stock and cut a profile of the bit in the temp.fence (in the center)..this will at as a chip beaker for the stock,and help with the rip out, the bit will pull a ton off the stock off so you will need to make 3 or 4 passes to get that nice clean profile on the stock..

I made a jig for that type of job on the router table, if you want to see it just ask and I will post it..

Amazon.com: Freud 99-465 Door and Window Casing Router Bit 1/2 inch Matches Industry Standard Profile #356: Home Improvement
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lea137 said:


> I'm fairly new to woodworking and have just purchased the Freud 99-465 casing bit. I want to make new casing for the doorways in our kitchen but I'm not entirely certain how to use the bit in the table and how thick the stock should be. The current casing is 3/4" thick, construction grade and is 2 1/4" wide with a 1/4" reveal.
> 
> Your thoughts and ideas would be appreciated.
> 
> John


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## lea137 (Aug 28, 2010)

Thanks for the tips. I built the router table and cabinet and have an LS Positioner (the super version) for the fence system. With that fence, do you still think I need to make a temp. fence? My other question is how deep should I have the bit cut into the stock?

Thanks again.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Yes you will need the temp. fence, try it without one and you will see what I mean than make one , that's a very tall bit and you will need all the support for the stock you can get..I would suggest a temp.fence 6" tall..

The bit will take over 1/2 of the wood thickest to get the full profile..it pulls a ton of stock off the board..


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lea137 said:


> Thanks for the tips. I built the router table and cabinet and have an LS Positioner (the super version) for the fence system. With that fence, do you still think I need to make a temp. fence? My other question is how deep should I have the bit cut into the stock?
> 
> Thanks again.


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## Limo (Jan 1, 2010)

BJ, I have that kind of bit and I was wondering how will the board be supported at the bottom for the second pass once you've made the first pass. Should the board be taller so it will have more puchase of the tall fence and then be ripped to size after all the passes?
Freud is not the best for telling you how to use the bits.

Wil


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Wil

No need to use a taller board, the bit will just round over the edge but not take off the flat part of it..so to say rip your stock to right size b/4 the mill work..don't forget most of the bit is in the fence pocket.. 

Note the red line on the stock in the picture, that's the only part the bit will cut.. 
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Limo said:


> BJ, I have that kind of bit and I was wondering how will the board be supported at the bottom for the second pass once you've made the first pass. Should the board be taller so it will have more puchase of the tall fence and then be ripped to size after all the passes?
> Freud is not the best for telling you how to use the bits.
> 
> Wil


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## Limo (Jan 1, 2010)

I think I understand. I'm relying on the aux fence to support and guide the board and the main router fence is really not to be used? The router fence is there to just to shelter the bit?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Wil

They are both needed, the main fence is used to keep the bit from taking off to much and the Aux.fence is used to keep the board true to the main fence, it will take a pass or two to remove the mass of stock from the board.
Use a stop block on the back side of the main fence that's clamped to the table top, once you have the bit set right move the main fence out to take off the 1st. pass and then move the main fence back to the stop block and move the Aux. fence in to keep the board running true to the main fence and the bit..


I use a push block that you will see in the pictures, to keep my fingers out of the path of the bit..on the short stock (3" or less) you will want to use one more push down block to keep the stock down to the table top, the bit will want to lift the stock up as it goes by the bit..

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Limo said:


> I think I understand. I'm relying on the aux fence to support and guide the board and the main router fence is really not to be used? The router fence is there to just to shelter the bit?


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## Limo (Jan 1, 2010)

I got the picture in my head now. Thanks, I was ready to put the bit on ebay because of frustration. You're a life/bit saver! I'll ask you later on setting up the finger joint bit from Freud. Them Freud people sure don't like to give out info on their products.:fie:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Wil

" Freud " I don't know why they down show the bit like you and I are going to use it in the router table, it would make it easy-er  like they say a picture is worth a 1000 words..

I will say if you have a error with the bit you can always make it a stock a bit wider, the bit will remove the part that's needed to keep it sq. to the fence, on the bottom part of the bit, no big deal just rip it off on the table saw but it one more step you will need to do...but it's not needed the norm if you use the zero type insert for your fence.. 

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Limo said:


> I got the picture in my head now. Thanks, I was ready to put the bit on ebay because of frustration. You're a life/bit saver! I'll ask you later on setting up the finger joint bit from Freud. Them Freud people sure don't like to give out info on their products.:fie:


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