# Freud FT1700 Router and Guide Bushings



## dwwilson44 (Jul 13, 2006)

For those of you thinking about using your router for routing with universal guide bushings, I would suggest that you not consider the Freud FT1700 router. It does not come with an adapter ring and you have to order one, the FT1100. In my opinion, the design is very poor, in that you have to use two screws that mount in the base and catch the edge of the adapter. In trying to get the screws tight enough to keep the adapter ring from being loose and sliding around, a lot of torque needs to be applied. It was still loose as I was tightening it down when the metal insert that accepts the screw broke loose from the base. I had a Turnlock baseplate and metal bushing set that I replaced the base with, but it has two features that I don't really care for, one is its thickness which reduces the depth that can be cut, and two, it is about an inch wider than the original base. 

Otherwise, I really like the Freud and without the guide bushing problem I use it ahead of the Bosch 1617 I have due to its' better viewing area for the cut. If anyone has found a better solution to this issue, I would appreciate knowing it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi dwwilson44

I have two Freud routers and the one that's in the set below will work great in the Freud router.. 
Plus if you want to go the extra step and get two sets, you can punch out one of the adapter rings to take on the bigger brass guides ( Oak-Park type 1 1/2" ID x 1 3/4" OD ) in that way you can use some of the bigger bits

You may say why would I want two sets, some of the brass guides are longer then you need sometimes and it just takes a min. to grind them down to 1/4" high lets say...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95160
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=41778&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1


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dwwilson44 said:


> For those of you thinking about using your router for routing with universal guide bushings, I would suggest that you not consider the Freud FT1700 router. It does not come with an adapter ring and you have to order one, the FT1100. In my opinion, the design is very poor, in that you have to use two screws that mount in the base and catch the edge of the adapter. In trying to get the screws tight enough to keep the adapter ring from being loose and sliding around, a lot of torque needs to be applied. It was still loose as I was tightening it down when the metal insert that accepts the screw broke loose from the base. I had a Turnlock baseplate and metal bushing set that I replaced the base with, but it has two features that I don't really care for, one is its thickness which reduces the depth that can be cut, and two, it is about an inch wider than the original base.
> 
> Otherwise, I really like the Freud and without the guide bushing problem I use it ahead of the Bosch 1617 I have due to its' better viewing area for the cut. If anyone has found a better solution to this issue, I would appreciate knowing it.


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## dwwilson44 (Jul 13, 2006)

Thanks for the info, but I guess I am still not sure how those sets will get me around the problem that the FT1100 adapter ring will not get tight in the base. I could try a jerry rigged washer under the screws, but the space is very small and I am afraid that the screw receptacle is loose in the body of the original base. If it is, I don't have much choice other than to get another base, do I?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi dw,

You may want to give Charles M a pm. He might be able to help ya out.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi dwwilson44

The key is the BRASS , unlike steel the screw will grab the brass or to say put in a small dent in the brass , you can always just retap the screw hole to a SAE size unlike the metic one that's in it now...the next size up is just a bit bigger by just a little bit......if the ring is still lose just make a gasket out of some thin cardboard and place it under the ring...then lock in down in place..



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dwwilson44 said:


> Thanks for the info, but I guess I am still not sure how those sets will get me around the problem that the FT1100 adapter ring will not get tight in the base. I could try a jerry rigged washer under the screws, but the space is very small and I am afraid that the screw receptacle is loose in the body of the original base. If it is, I don't have much choice other than to get another base, do I?


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

dwwilson44 said:


> Thanks for the info, but I guess I am still not sure how those sets will get me around the problem that the FT1100 adapter ring will not get tight in the base. I could try a jerry rigged washer under the screws, but the space is very small and I am afraid that the screw receptacle is loose in the body of the original base. If it is, I don't have much choice other than to get another base, do I?


dwwilson,

Sorry to hear of the problem. You should call our Power Tool, Parts and Repair Dept. at (800) 334-4107 (option 3) and I am confident we can get your router functioning properly.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

The Harbor Freight template guide bushings are the same same as the Freud FT2020 guide bushing set. I did pose a question about their use, which I sussed out.
I have no problem getting the adapters tight.

The real only problem I am having is the adaption of my Freud to my Ryobi Router Table. (The mounting surface is to thick) I can't find a drop in plate to fit the Freud FT 1700. I will do as others on this forum do make my own.

Wish me well Obi Wan (Bobj3)
The other George 




bobj3 said:


> Hi dwwilson44
> 
> I have two Freud routers and the one that's in the set below will work great in the Freud router..
> Plus if you want to go the extra step and get two sets, you can punch out one of the adapter rings to take on the bigger brass guides ( Oak-Park type 1 1/2" ID x 1 3/4" OD ) in that way you can use some of the bigger bits
> ...


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## kenwho (Jan 17, 2008)

*bobj3 u da man*



bobj3 said:


> Hi dwwilson44
> 
> The key is the BRASS , unlike steel the screw will grab the brass or to say put in a small dent in the brass , you can always just retap the screw hole to a SAE size unlike the metic one that's in it now...the next size up is just a bit bigger by just a little bit......if the ring is still lose just make a gasket out of some thin cardboard and place it under the ring...then lock in down in place..
> 
> ...


bobj3 You pushed me over the edge on desiding to get this .that will work . I wanted to use my Frued1700 with the PC dovetail jig whitch has its special guide bushing , and it 2-1/4 hp. , and for 11.00+ not a bad loss if it dont work . Thanks


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> You may want to give Charles M a pm. He might be able to help ya out.


*Does "Charles M." deliver?*
The reason is that I'm still waiting for, (and given up on) a CD that was supposed to be in with my first router I've given up on it because the second router had one with it and it wasn't worth the effort. Content of the CD had some pretty good tips, but the actual CD was very poorly done with too much compression to actually see anything on the videos on it.
I'm also still waiting for a replacement plate as one on the first router kit was defective. I'm afraid to ask again for the second router as that one also has a misaligned hole in it.

*I'm not too sure about the brass inserts in the plate being used for the attachment of the template guide bushings, they align perfectly with the vacuum adapter.* *At least I hope that that's what they are for as on all four plates*, (two router kits), *every brass insert has made hairline cracks in the plates and any extra torque would definitely spin them.* (and one router was not even used yet!)

*IMHO;* they seem like good routers, the majority of the problems seem to be with VERY POOR instructions, lacking detail for manufacturer's attachments and details on such and the plates.

While I'm on the soap box...

Their design of their edge guide mounting was good until they modified the shaft lock lever. I don't know what it was like in the first place, but now one can only get ONE screw to lock the rods of the edge guide onto either the fixed base or the plunge base.

But I've got two of the FT1700VCE's and I'll try to make the best use of them as I can. Even if I have to have plates made up by a friend who is a machinist.

Cordially,
Gerard


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Gerard_sr said:


> *Does "Charles M." deliver?*


Yes, he does.


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

Gerard,

I hear you frustration and I am sorry for it but am unclear as to exactly what you need. Please call our Power Tool Parts and Repair Department @(800) 334-4107 and they will be happy to help.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*Thanks Mike,* 
I'll give him a try with the next Freud dilemma!

In the mean time, I checked out the set of guide bushings that someone had mentioned at Harbor Freight, 95160-2VGA at a local store. The adapter ring needed for the Freud router is supposed to be 3 3/8" diameter and the one from Harbor Freight was much smaller. Drat.

No doubt I messed up and didn't realize the person that mentioned the Harbor Freight guides was referring to the individual guides and not the adapter.

I ordered the Freud FT2020 Template Guide Kit from Amazon.com at $48.27 with free shipping. 

I kind of need them to make the plate insert hole with a jig for the router table wing I'm making for my table saw. I did pick up some angle Iron at Lowes to reinforce the wing as it's a piece of Formica coated counter top and I fear it would eventually bow without reinforcement.

Cordially,
Gerard


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## Mr. Randy (Oct 22, 2009)

I too just got my Freud 1702 out of the case and realized I would have to make my own router table insert if I want to mount it in my router table - #*%@!! Additionally, something seems strange with my plunge base. It only "plunges 1/2". Seems like something is stuck or locked but I can't figure it out. Or, maybe that is the plunge distance- ?? Any suggestions?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Mr. Randy said:


> I too just got my Freud 1702 out of the case and realized I would have to make my own router table insert if I want to mount it in my router table - #*%@!! Additionally, something seems strange with my plunge base. It only "plunges 1/2". Seems like something is stuck or locked but I can't figure it out. Or, maybe that is the plunge distance- ?? Any suggestions?


Randy,

Regarding the table insert, getting an insert or making a table with the cutout / lip sized to support the base level with the top of the table is required for most routers. Even router table cutouts aren't all the same size. Most people get a correct-sized plate (either predrilled for their router base or drill their own), remove the factory base plate and both the intert to it. It you plan to use guide bushings in the table you will also need some form of centering device to center the bushing center to the collet center. There are many posts here in the forum on thiese topics and different people's approach to them.

These are not big things but if you do not want to do it, you can pay a premium price to certain suppliers of router tables to provide your choice of router integrated to the table. Be aware though that all this extra work doesn't come for free, or inexpensively.

Regarding the plunge, something is catching as it should be around 2-1/2" of plunge depth. Send a private message to Charles M and he'll refer you to Freud's support center. Freud has a very good reputation for support here in this forum. Please keep us posted on how things work out!


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

Mr. Randy,

You should check the plunge depth stop rod to be sure it is not interfering with the amount of plunge. If you loosen the thumbscrew it will move up and out of the way. That's the most likely cause.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

*Lotta this going around*



Mr. Randy said:


> I too just got my Freud 1702 out of the case and realized I would have to make my own router table insert if I want to mount it in my router table - #*%@!! Additionally, something seems strange with my plunge base. It only "plunges 1/2". Seems like something is stuck or locked but I can't figure it out. Or, maybe that is the plunge distance- ?? Any suggestions?


I just posted the same issues under General Routing. I must have gotten in here to late to catch Charles M. 
Mine worked fine till I fumbled. I think a circlip came out.
I haven't tried a bushing adapter yet but if it uses the same holes that the vac collector does, the screws could be bottoming out against each other. Vac adapter on top, bushing adapter on bottom.


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

jschaben said:


> I just posted the same issues under General Routing. I must have gotten in here to late to catch Charles M.
> Mine worked fine till I fumbled. I think a circlip came out.
> I haven't tried a bushing adapter yet but if it uses the same holes that the vac collector does, the screws could be bottoming out against each other. Vac adapter on top, bushing adapter on bottom.


John,

As I recall, to mount the template adapter you replace the dust chute screws with the longer ones which should be included. They insert from the bottom so the screw heads can hold the adapter and wing nuts hold the dust chute down on top.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Charles M said:


> John,
> 
> As I recall, to mount the template adapter you replace the dust chute screws with the longer ones which should be included. They insert from the bottom so the screw heads can hold the adapter and wing nuts hold the dust chute down on top.


Hi Charles, I thought about that. I think those are M4 screws and I was going to replace those with phillips drive anyway. 
Like I said, my adapter plates aren't here yet so I will just wait for it and see how long a screws I need. Looks like the adapter plate will need to be removed to change the bushings though.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Charles M said:


> John,
> 
> As I recall, to mount the template adapter you replace the dust chute screws with the longer ones which should be included. They insert from the bottom so the screw heads can hold the adapter and wing nuts hold the dust chute down on top.


I just got my template adaptors in today. Nothing came with longer screws nor wing nuts. :fie: Guess I will trundle over to HD in the morning. Looks like gonna need two M5 x about 20mm.h34r:


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

jschaben said:


> I just got my template adaptors in today. Nothing came with longer screws nor wing nuts. :fie: Guess I will trundle over to HD in the morning. Looks like gonna need two M5 x about 20mm.h34r:


How'd that work for you, John? 
I received my adapters on Monday but am still waiting for the router, which was shipped Priority Mail a week ago last Thursday. Mine didn't have any screws with it either but if that's what I need, I might as well start trundling myself


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## Mr. Randy (Oct 22, 2009)

Charles M said:


> Mr. Randy,
> 
> You should check the plunge depth stop rod to be sure it is not interfering with the amount of plunge. If you loosen the thumbscrew it will move up and out of the way. That's the most likely cause.


No, the depth stop isn't interfering with the plunge. It seems like something is hung up in the sliding post mechanism. I am trying to decide weather to take it apart or send it somewhere. I appreciate the help from the forum. Suggestions?


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

jschaben said:


> I just got my template adaptors in today. Nothing came with longer screws nor wing nuts. :fie: Guess I will trundle over to HD in the morning. Looks like gonna need two M5 x about 20mm.h34r:


I believe the necessary hardware should have been with the router. Call our Parts and Repair Dept and see if they can help. (800) 334-4107 (option 3)


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

Mr. Randy said:


> No, the depth stop isn't interfering with the plunge. It seems like something is hung up in the sliding post mechanism. I am trying to decide weather to take it apart or send it somewhere. I appreciate the help from the forum. Suggestions?


Please call our Parts and Repair Dept and ask for Mike. He should be able to help determine the problem and solution. (800) 334-4107 (option 3)


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## Ralph O'Rourke (Dec 29, 2008)

I am relatively new to routing. I bought a Freud FT1700VCE--the router set with the two bases. I watch the New Yankee Workshop and see Norm using the router with (what he calls) collars, which I assume are template guides. However, I am finding out that my router isn't standard. So before I lay out $$$, I'd like to clarify something: if I wanted to use standard brass template guides, I first have to buy, and attach, a FT1100 adapter because the hole is so big on the 1700? (The hole on the 1700's plunge base is almost 2 1/2" in diameter). If I buy this adapter will all the normal sized (1 3/16"?) template guides fit?
Thanks


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Ralph O'Rourke said:


> I am relatively new to routing. I bought a Freud FT1700VCE--the router set with the two bases. I watch the New Yankee Workshop and see Norm using the router with (what he calls) collars, which I assume are template guides. However, I am finding out that my router isn't standard. So before I lay out $$$, I'd like to clarify something: if I wanted to use standard brass template guides, I first have to buy, and attach, a FT1100 adapter because the hole is so big on the 1700? (The hole on the 1700's plunge base is almost 2 1/2" in diameter). If I buy this adapter will all the normal sized (1 3/16"?) template guides fit?
> Thanks


Hi Ralph - Welcome to the forum
Yeah, you need the FT1100 adapter. I think an adapter that will work comes in the $12 bushing kit from Harbor Freight. The adapter fits in the baseplate and it has the 1 3/16" hole. Actually, I bought two. The Freud system is nice in the respect that the baseplate is what gets centered when you center the bit. Hence, changing adapters doesn't affect centering. I was just doing a job this evening where I needed two sizes of adapters with the same bit (parallel grooves) and I just loaded the two adapters with the two bushings and just had to swap them when I was ready.
You will also need to buy two longer screws, 25 mm I think, and a couple of wing nuts to keep your dust collector intact. Mine didn't come with them although Charles M (member here and Freud rep) says they should have. For two screws and a couple of wing nuts I didn't bother with it. 
Enjoy your new router


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

20.oo bucks and you have it all..

========


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## Ralph O'Rourke (Dec 29, 2008)

> - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
> 20.oo bucks and you have it all..


Thanks for the comeback, guys. Bob: in your reply cited above (I assume you mean Model ITEM 95160-2VGA), are you saying that the template which comes with the Harbor Freight set SPECIFICALLY fits the Freud FT1700VCE (among other routers)?

The reason I ask is that I looked at a similar set on eBay: (oops, the board won't let me paste URLs until I post 10 times) and the description stated "The adaptor (sic) that comes with this set measure 2-5/8" across, the diameter from the indent of the adaptor measures 2-7/16". The adaptor that comes with this set is for some Makita and Freud models." 

Granted, the eBay and the Harbor Freight set may be different but since the center-to-center of the mounting holes of the 1700 is 2 15/16", I just wanted to make sure that the adapter of the Harbor Freight set you cited was big enough? Harbor Freight doesn't specify the size of the adapter.

Thanks,
R O'R
BTW, I LUV that this forum exists as I have developed a new-found love for making wooden things with my own hands.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Ralph O'Rourke said:


> Thanks for the comeback, guys. Bob: in your reply cited above (I assume you mean Model ITEM 95160-2VGA), are you saying that the template which comes with the Harbor Freight set SPECIFICALLY fits the Freud FT1700VCE (among other routers)?
> 
> The reason I ask is that I looked at a similar set on eBay: (oops, the board won't let me paste URLs until I post 10 times) and the description stated "The adaptor (sic) that comes with this set measure 2-5/8" across, the diameter from the indent of the adaptor measures 2-7/16". The adaptor that comes with this set is for some Makita and Freud models."
> 
> ...


I have the 1700 as well, the Harbor Frieight #95160-2VGA does fit..It's a exact clone of the Freud FT (something or other)..

George Cole
"Regulae Stultis Sunt"


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## Ralph O'Rourke (Dec 29, 2008)

George II said:


> I have the 1700 as well, the Harbor Frieight #95160-2VGA does fit..It's a exact clone of the Freud FT (something or other)..


Thank you, George.

R O'R

"More hay, Trigger?" "No thanks, Roy. I'm STUFFED!"


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## Ralph O'Rourke (Dec 29, 2008)

BTW, George (forgot to ask in the previous post) What is the outside diameter of the adapter and what is the center-to-center distance of the mounting holes? Thx.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Ralph O'Rourke said:


> BTW, George (forgot to ask in the previous post) What is the outside diameter of the adapter and what is the center-to-center distance of the mounting holes? Thx.


Hi Ralph. Trying to visualize how the thing worked had me baffled too, until I got the thing in my little grubbies. Maybe these pics will help. The wingnut is on the other end of the screw holding the adapter. Just loosen the screw enough for the adapter to pop in or out then retighten the screw...


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## Ralph O'Rourke (Dec 29, 2008)

jschaben said:


> Hi Ralph. Trying to visualize how the thing worked had me baffled too, until I got the thing in my little grubbies. Maybe these pics will help. The wingnut is on the other end of the screw holding the adapter. Just loosen the screw enough for the adapter to pop in or out then retighten the screw...


AH-H-H-....."I see," said the blind man. 

So the adapter does NOT fit the hole OR the indents, NOR is it attached to the router with screws thru the screwholes. Instead, it is held to the bottom of the base by the EDGES of the screws of the dustguard and the templates are then screwed to the adapter?

WoW! A hundred years ago when I was in the Navy, we called this setup a "jury-rigged fubar." And this really works?....with accuracy? Is this the only solution to using templates with the 1700?

Thx.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ralph

It really works but a better way to go is with a MilesCraft plate that will take on the PC type guides  very easy and quick,once the new base plate is in place it just takes a quick turn to put in a new brass guide.

Amazon.com: Milescraft 1201 Base Plate / Bushing Set for Routers: Home Improvement


=====




Ralph O'Rourke said:


> AH-H-H-....."I see," said the blind man.
> 
> So the adapter does NOT fit the hole OR the indents, NOR is it attached to the router with screws thru the screwholes. Instead, it is held to the bottom of the base by the EDGES of the screws of the dustguard and the templates are then screwed to the adapter?
> 
> ...


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## Ralph O'Rourke (Dec 29, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ralph
> It really works but a better way to go is with a MilesCraft plate that will take on the PC type guides  very easy and quick,once the new base plate is in place it just takes a quick turn to put in a new brass guide.
> sr=1-12]Amazon.com: Milescraft 1201 Base Plate / Bushing Set for Routers: Home Improvement


 (sorry, had to remove the URL in order to reply)
Sounds interesting. Not to belabor this but...for $20+ $8 shipping, I get a replacement clear plastic router base plate and about 9 plastic template guides ( which use a click-lock to mount to the base). Is that about right? Do you have one of these sets? How do these plastic guides hold up to wear? Doesn't sound like too good of a deal, considering the cost of the brass ones.

What in the WORLD was Freud thinking about when they designed this base? They're better than that.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Ralph O'Rourke said:


> AH-H-H-....."I see," said the blind man.
> 
> So the adapter does NOT fit the hole OR the indents, NOR is it attached to the router with screws thru the screwholes. Instead, it is held to the bottom of the base by the EDGES of the screws of the dustguard and the templates are then screwed to the adapter?
> 
> ...


Hi Ralph - Huh, musta been in the same Navy.. timeframe about right:sarcastic:

Actually works pretty good, the adapter is almost a press fit into the subbase. The beauty of the system is that you can remove the adapter to put on the bushing. Your not in under the router with the bit and everything getting in the way. Just put the bushing on the adapter and then the adapter on your router. 
The only problem I had with Bob's suggestion about the Milescraft is you either loose the dust collection or have to conjure up some kind of alternative. Other than that, the Milescraft is an excellant alternative.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

I don't have the 1700 but it looks like (from your post below) the MilesCraft plate would work well with the vac.pickup tube in place ,it that way you don't need to unscrew the brass adapter to install a new size of brass guide.. 

Router Forums - View Single Post - New Freud 1700 - Yay - Ooops -Oww - Baaww!

===========


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hmm, I'll take another look at that. I was so happy getting it to work I stopped looking at it. I just happen to have an extra Milescraft rumbling around somewhere.
Thanks


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## Ralph O'Rourke (Dec 29, 2008)

What in the WORLD were they smoking when they designed this base? Freud is better than that.


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## Ralph O'Rourke (Dec 29, 2008)

I guess my next purchase will be an edge guide. What do you guys think of the Freud edge guide? I have read quite a bit of criticism about the Freud guide but I'll listen to any pros and/or cons. 

What else is out there? Now, I am hearing that hardly ANY other edge guides will fit the 1700 cuz the guide holes are 3" and very few, if any, other routers have 3" holes for their edge guides.

Thanks.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Ralph O'Rourke said:


> What in the WORLD were they smoking when they designed this base? Freud is better than that.


Hi Ralph - Guess I don't understand your issues with the base. I have a couple but none I haven't been able to work around or eliminate fairly easily. Biggest one at the moment is the plunge base likes to jam if it comes up to rapidly. It happens if you don't get the lock lever set tight enough. Easy to fix but a PIA. Been happening less lately, maybe wearing in a bit with use or I'm getting better at setting the lock. The fixed base is another thing. You try to exhaust the dust collector out the back (opposite the power switch) and it interfers with the lock lever, run it out the front and you have to push the vac hose instead of having it follow you. Turn the router around and you are pushing the power cord.... Duuhhh. Cut about an inch and a half off the exhaust tube to get it out the back so both are following me. Makes the tube a bit short for my taste but it works.:wacko:

Bob - Milescraft plate will fit the 1700 just fine using the holes intended for table mounting instead of the original base plate holes. If you want to put it on the plunge base you need to drill and tap the base for 1/4-20. They didn't put table mounting holes in the plunge base  At least they put them in the fixed base and use the same subbase for both. 
Trying to add the dust collector is doable but you get a bit close for comfort to one of the twist lock retainers. Cant do to much of a tapered countersink. Might get away with a socket head cap screw or pan head and a straight sided countersink. Looks like the 5 mm. hole would be OK though. Definitately would need to be super careful torqueing it down.


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## Lhvd (Feb 27, 2010)

*Freud FT1700VCE replacement parts*

Does anyone have a source for Freud replacement parts. I accidently started the router without unlocking the spindle and broke the spindle lock button asembly. Have searched every online place I can think of. Thanks.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the RouterForums Lhvd. Thanks for becoming a member.


Try this
Call our Parts and Repair Dept and see if they can help. (800) 334-4107 (option 3)
__________________
Charles M
Freud America, Inc.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Lhvd said:


> Does anyone have a source for Freud replacement parts. I accidently started the router without unlocking the spindle and broke the spindle lock button asembly. Have searched every online place I can think of. Thanks.


Have you tried Freud? Last time I had a problem they were great. Had the parts in priority mail same day. I think the part number you need is *136068371* and the number I have for US is 1-800-334-4107 (Canada) 1-800-263-7016.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

That maybe why Freud dump the 1700's ,one of the many ..

=====


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> That maybe why Freud dump the 1700's ,one of the many ..
> 
> =====


Hi Bj - They have two configurations of spindle lock on the fixed bases. One automatically engages when you get so far down on the depth setting and the other has a lever you need to flip to engage it. I need to swap the hand base for the table base. I have the auto engage one in the table and it can sneak up on ya. Only about a 32nd between locked and unlocked and that is the one I have in the table. I think that is an early version. The one I'm using for hand right now requires the lever to be moved.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> That maybe why Freud dump the 1700's ,one of the many ..
> 
> =====


Actually, they've come out with a new model with through-table height adjustment on their fixed base.. they're joining the masses on this now-standard feature.

http://freudtools.com/p-260-ft1702vcek-2-14-hp-router-with-2-base-combo-kit.aspx


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Jim
thats the model they been selling everywhere cheap. 

i looked at one at lowes when i bought my bosch. i could have bought that exact model for 100 bucks. the 1702 isnt new.

after looking at reviews on the 1702, i chose the bosch.


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## chasdavies (Aug 25, 2010)

Hi everyone,

I'm a novice and this is my first post, so be gentle.

I also have a FT1700VCE. Love the unit, except...guide bushings. I have the Harbor Freight bushing set and for the life of me, I find it difficult to understand how to effectively mount the adapter ring to the base plate. The unit I have is missing the vacuum adapter (maybe that's the problem). 

The HF adapter ring has four holes, none of which will align with the two holes in the base plate. Should I drill my own holes in the adapter plate? 

I noticed that the FT1100 adapter has no holes. How is it mounted?

If some one has a picture of how they mounting the adapter ring, I would really appreciate a look.

Many thanks!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Charlie

John has one and I'm sure he will post a picture, the norm, they have two screws on the side of the brass adapter that hold it to the router with the lip on the adapter but the real easy way is use the Milescraft base plate...and can use your guides you now have..and make it a snap to use your router..

Amazon.com: Milescraft 1211 Base Plate Metal-Nose Bushing Set for Routers: Home Improvement

I should note with the brass adapter in place and the vac.pickup tube in place it's a real PITA to install and remove the brass guides, but with the Milescraft plate in place it a real snap..and very easy to do...

Don't forget the brass adapter must be in the center and you must reline it every time you put on your the router, not so with the milescraft plate..once you put it place your set..and you can use up to a 2 1/2" bits not so with the brass adapter in place..

=========



chasdavies said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I'm a novice and this is my first post, so be gentle.
> 
> ...


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

chasdavies said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I'm a novice and this is my first post, so be gentle.
> 
> ...


Hi Charlie - Welcome to the forum
Here ya go, some guys think it is kind of a funky way of attaching it, the system works well. What you do is center the sub-base itself, rather than the adapter. The adapter is a slip fit in the base so no need to recenter for changing bits or removing/replacing the adapter, just when the sub-base is removed. The adapter just slips under the screw heads and uses the same screws as the vac adapter. You said it wasn't included in your kit but you can order one from Freud customer service. I ordered another because I had the two base kit and it was $15+/- shipped.
You do need longer screws and wing nuts to incorporate the dust collector. I think I used M6x18mm.
Good Luck


PS - The Milescraft is a good system also and will bolt right up to the Freud if you elect to go that way


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## Grung56 (Jul 13, 2010)

The Freud kit comes with 3/4" OD 21/32" ID ring as the largest. What do you do if you have a bit larger than 5/8" ?
More to the point, how would use a 1 1/4" bit in a Freud VCE1700 ?
Thanks... Greg


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## Grung56 (Jul 13, 2010)

Clarification.....
What do you do if you want to use a larger bit like a 1 1/4" with a guide bushing to follow a template?
The FT2020 kit only goes up to 21/32" ID.
....Greg


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Greg

Just rework the brass adapter ring so it can take on the 1 1/2" guides, very easy job on the drill press with two bits, than you can use the 1 1/4" bit easy... 

========



Grung56 said:


> Clarification.....
> What do you do if you want to use a larger bit like a 1 1/4" with a guide bushing to follow a template?
> The FT2020 kit only goes up to 21/32" ID.
> ....Greg


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Greg
> 
> Just rework the brass adapter ring so it can take on the 1 1/2" guides, very easy job on the drill press with two bits, than you can use the 1 1/4" bit easy...
> 
> ========


Bj, will the adapter ring in the Harbor Freight bushing kit fit the 1700?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Yes, it's the same as the Freud one .it's just less money 

=====



jschaben said:


> Bj, will the adapter ring in the Harbor Freight bushing kit fit the 1700?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi John
> 
> Yes, it's the same as the Freud one .it's just less money
> 
> =====


Thanks, I thought it might be. I have two but am getting one machined out for the large bushings.:thank_you2:


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## Grung56 (Jul 13, 2010)

BJ
Thanks for the suggestion. I might be missing something in translation here however.
I only have the Freud FT2020 set. Are you implying that I should acquire a 1 1/2" collar? Then I would have to adapt it to the 'brass adapter ring'. 
Maybe it is more detail than you can devote to this thread, but I don't get how two drill bits will change the stock brass adapter to what I need (accurately).
... Greg


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi
If you want to use a 1 1/4" router bit with brass guides you will need to do this 

It's done the same way with the bits below (see link below), the one in the link is the plastic type rings but done the same way,but this time you would use 3 hex.washer head sheet metal screws to hold the brass ring in place to some scrap plywood..

If you don't have the 1 3/16" drill bit and most don't you can make a 1 3/16" plug (with a hole saw) and put in a 1/4" bolt in it and line up the brass adapter ring with it in the drill press..

http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/10818-bogydave.html

==========

The high price one below

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FT2020-...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1283210446&sr=1-1

The same thing but lower in price 
http://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-router-template-guide-set-95160.html

the bigger brass guides
http://www.leevalley.com/us/hardware/search.aspx?c=&action=n
http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=41778&cat=1,43000,51208,41778

I will say you can't have too many brass guides 

NOTE *** this set comes with the 1" one and most sets don't  and it's only 15.oo..
http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-router-template-guide-set-98361.html

Line up plugs for many jobs on the router and worth the time to make your own set..
http://www.routerforums.com/161499-post3.html

=======


Grung56 said:


> BJ
> Thanks for the suggestion. I might be missing something in translation here however.
> I only have the Freud FT2020 set. Are you implying that I should acquire a 1 1/2" collar? Then I would have to adapt it to the 'brass adapter ring'.
> Maybe it is more detail than you can devote to this thread, but I don't get how two drill bits will change the stock brass adapter to what I need (accurately).
> ... Greg


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> If you want to use a 1 1/4" router bit with brass guides you will need to do this
> 
> It's done the same way with the bits below (see link below), the one in the link is the plastic type rings but done the same way,but this time you would use 3 hex.washer head sheet metal screws to hold the brass ring in place to some scrap plywood..
> ...


Thanks for the 'bogydave' tutorial. 

another tread to subscribe to.....


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## Grung56 (Jul 13, 2010)

Solution.
I am in Canada so getting products from US suppliers is a hassle and expensive and takes time. But Lee Valley is close. So here is my solution getting a large bushing into my Freud router base.
I bought the Veritas Router Base ($42) which comes with a centering pin and a see thru acetate alignment guide to easily drill (and countersink) holes for MY router. See link:

Veritas® Base Plate/Table Insert - Lee Valley Tools

I was able to use the 1 1/4" dish cutter bit in a template to cut circles. To get my desired 3" recessed circles (to hold glass tumblers), I had to iterate ('trial and error') with a fly cutter, which turned out to be about 3/8" greater diameter than my 3" circles. 
I have agonized over this, so I hope it helps someone!
.... Greg


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Grung56 said:


> Solution.
> I am in Canada so getting products from US suppliers is a hassle and expensive and takes time. But Lee Valley is close. So here is my solution getting a large bushing into my Freud router base.
> I bought the Veritas Router Base ($42) which comes with a centering pin and a see thru acetate alignment guide to easily drill (and countersink) holes for MY router. See link:
> 
> ...



Hi Greg - Glad you got it done. I'm wondering though, according to the way I figure offset, I was figuring a 3-1-4" dia template would be right. Maybe the bottom radius of the dish cutter has something to do with it.

My solution to getting the large bushing into the 1700 - dropped a FT1100 adapter plate off at a local machine shop along with the bushing. Will let you know how that works later as I haven't picked it up yet. Planning on making my own centering pin with a plug cutter. 


EDIT - Well, got the adapter plate back from the machine shop today. They hit me $45 for 3/4 hr machine work. I thought that was a bit steep and said so and they knocked $5 off. Big deal. I think they charged me for two setups as the first time I went to pick it up they hadn't put in the countersink for the bushing lip. I figure half an hour ought to be plenty of shop time for a dedicated machine shop. I guess I broke about even as a veritas plate would have run about that +shipping. I don't trust my cheapo Ryobi drill press for the accuracy I needed so I think I came out OK.


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## Grung56 (Jul 13, 2010)

John
I think you are correct in figuring the radius on the corner of the dish cutter bit will affect the diameter of the circle you are cutting.

When I cut 1/8" deep, my circle diameter 3 1/8". 
When I cut 1/16 deep, my circle dia. was 3" (which was what I wanted.)
The point is, at 1/16 deep, the 1 1/4 bit is not using all of its cutter width to make the cut.


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