# making a router table



## cherokee (Feb 9, 2006)

be gratefull for views on whether it is worth the time for a newbee, and where and how  to proceed if so


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

i have 4 router tables and i went and bought the one that rick and bob uses i bought the top and base and all the fence's also got the guides i made mine out of malemine works great i got the one with the vaccume ports sure works good del schisler here is the address http://www.oak-park.com/ click on the us map and it will take you to the pages


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## Gilbear (Dec 13, 2005)

Hi Cherokee
Theres lots of discussion threads on here about tables and making them - just do a search - here's a link to a recent one:

http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=2014

There are a couple of links in the above thread for plans for tables and those links will also lead you to others.

I think making a table could be a good way to learn or brush up on some basic skills, but it's a matter of how comfortable you are and how involved/complex you want it to be. Some guys tables are true works of art that I'd be proud to have in in my living room! Others are very basic/almost ugly - but get the job done well. It's ALL good if it does what YOU need it to do.
Can also get you copies of another set of plans that are rather elaborate and are mentioned in that link from Woodworkers Journal - too elaborate for my needs, but good working drawings. If you want those, send me a PM.


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## GoonMan (Mar 22, 2005)

cherokee said:


> be gratefull for views on whether it is worth the time for a newbee, and where and how  to proceed if so


Hello cherokee, Welcome to the RouterForums 

I have 3 Router Tables (2 are Company made Steel and Aluminum and 1 is a Sears Portable table top mount that was given to me), I have waited until my Skills with Routing improved before making my own. Which I have been using a Router now for a little over 2 years and bought the 2 tables mentioned above. Now that my skills have somewhat improved I feel I am now capable of making the table I want or atleast purchasing a table top and making the Cabinet for it. More than likely I will buy the Oak Park table with all of the stuff with it and make my own Cabinet. Just my 2 cents.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Cherokee, welcome to the forums. I too bought the table top from Oak Park and will make my own base for it. It depends on how much work you want to do.  There is a lot of work involved in making your own table top. I guess I'm lazy, I'd rather buy one for a starter top.  Anyway, welcome to the forums.

Dave
the "Doctor"


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Cherokee,

I've made a couple of router tables, and they are a good first project. Just remember, your first table should probably be a simple design, and allow you to discover how you will use it. I started out with a double sink cut out from my kitchen remodel, and made a bench top style cabinet underneath it. I then played with the height, until I found out what worked best. Then, since I was doing bigger pieces, I opted to increase the square footage of my tabletop on my current router table.

I would not commit huge dollars to your first table until you play with a simpler one for a while. either grab yourself a decent base plate and inset it into a homebuilt table top, or pick up the oak park table and plate, and A & I supply table top and plate, pricecutter.com, etc., and see what works. Then, when you've figured out what you need (not necessarily what looks 'cool') you can then build the router table of you dreams!

Good luck, and make sure you keep us updated,
Doug


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## dtaylor15 (Jan 22, 2006)

Here is a subject on routers that I can talk about...I have a table which I got from Eagle America, purchased just the top from them, and at Home Depot purchased a scratch & dent bathroom vanity cabinet, it has a open cabinet and a drawer on the bottom...I added a 2nd drawer about mid way, I was using a m12v then, and it had plenty of room to hang, I wasn't sure about my own skills of making the top, but this set up worked nice, the cabinet was 30.00, and it is solid, really works nicely....Dennis


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

*cheap, easy and useful*

Hi Cherokee,

I'm a very new woodworker (55 yrs old) and had some concerns at first. What I ended up doing is finding a simple router table plan online (and I do mean simple) and out of scrap pieces, made a useable (ugly but useful) table.

It clamps to my workmate. I use a skil 1825 fixed base in the table and use the plunge router for table top.

I didn't even have a fence at first, found an old messed up wood mitre box and turned that into a fence, couple of slots, wing nuts and away she goes.

I've built several frames using this table to route the patterns on the material. It worked like a charm.

Don't be afraid to be adventuresome, it's a great way to learn, and btw, I now know what my next router table will be because of my experience with this cheapo but first (therefore much loved) table.

karateed


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## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)

Hi Cherokee

I made something like Karateed.
Instead of talking, here are the pictures.
The fence is not on the picture but I have it.
If you would like more pictures or details, please go ahead.

Regards
niki


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Hi all,

Well, table 2 is well in the works...I've got pictures on my cell phone, but as it is with technology, I can't get them off quite yet......so......once they are off I'll post them. This table will be much better than my first table. So far I've only got the table top done, insert for router and base. It's a portable router table, not full blown, that one is for next year or maybe year after. Anyway, it's been very enjoyable so far, made lots and lots of mistakes on the way which means I'm probably learning valuable tips and tricks for the future. I'll post them soon.

KarateEd......


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Sure it's worth the time to make a table.. My first one was a sink cutout so I could figure out what to do, and not to do.. My second, and present one, is made from MDF for the top, and particle board for the rest of it.. It does what I need it for.. Link to the pic is below..
A table can be a fun first time project..

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...y-first-sign-project-moved-here-100_1692s.jpg


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

*My latest router table*

Here's the promised pictures of my newest router table. Please take into consideration that I've really just started to work wood. So far this project has been a great pleasure.

Anyway, all of it is made of scrap wood just lying around. The table top is an old shelf my company was going to throw away, it's actually laminated press board, the trim is oak from a pallet, the plywood is a throwaway object from our local theatre group.

I'm currently working on the fence an it too is made up of 'scrap' wood.

Anyway, enjoy the pictures and hopefully my work will get better, if it gets worse, I'll have to quit....

KarateEd......


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

It looks like a highly functional table to me Ed. This is the perfect way to get started. Good job!


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Ed,

Nothing like a nicew Bob & Rick style router table to get started on the right track. You did a nice job and put useful resources to great use. 

Can't wait to see your next project.


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks very much...I'm very happy with this as first major project...the fence is almost done...I'll post oics next week...wish I'd known how much fun this was years ag....


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

*98% finished and still going strong*

Hi folks,

Well, after working over the weekend finishing my router fence, featherboards, etc. I'm ready to post a few more pics of the 98% finished product. Between finishing this off and insulating my tin ceiling in my 'shop', I'm worn out today. I needed to get back to work just to rest...LOL....anyway, hope you enjoy these and yes.....it is still made of all scrap wood so I'm pleased to be able to help out the environment and the plight of some tree that will not be seen and not buried.

It has been a blast doing this....next project....a picture frame for my daughter....I'll use the table to do most of the routing. I make the frames completely from scratch, so it'll be much easier this time.

BTW, I used the 50% finished version of my table to route the fence for the featherboards. Therein lies my first use of my new table. 

I'm anticipating making a permanent table in about 2 years from now...but maybe sooner, we'll see.

KarateEd.....


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## AndyGTC (Aug 30, 2006)

Wow! Karateed, that's a really impressive job there. Great stuff. Damn, now you got me thinking about doing this for myself. I need a bigger table for the bigger drum shells I have to rout the edges on and I really ought to make it myself. You've given me some real inspiration here!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

Looks good to me 

May I sugguest a item, please take this the right way , you will need to split the fence in two parts or add a new front fence parts that are split,this will let you put in and use bigger bits without taking the fence off and recutting the hole in the center.
Also put a bigger hole in the back fence, 
i.e. 1 3/4" wide by 2 1/4" tall
You can use the track you now have to hold the front fence on and it will let you move it to side to side.

Bj


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the kudos and bj, I don't ever take suggestions the wrong way. I don't know anything or almost anything about woodworking so any suggestions are welcome. I'm wondering if you could provide a small sketch on what you mean for the fence. I have a feeling you're taking about a split fence for some special functions but am not sure. Also, if you're talking about the hole at the back of the fence, I cut it that size to fit my vacumm. The other hole in front of that one fits all the bits I currently have. I just did it by the article I had but I'm not sure if I'm understanding your instructions, been a long day and kinda tired so it's probably me. 

Thanks all for the kind words, encouragement and suggestions. That's what I feel this forum is all about.

KarateEd......


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Ed, a picture is worth a thousand words. Check out this link: http://www.routerforums.com/5014-post12.html I will post better photos soon. In the left photo you can see the solid fence on top and a gap between the lower sliding faces. In the right photo you will see 4 small adjusting knobs that lock them in place. Being able to adjust the size of the opening really helps with dust collection and keeping your work lined up right. It's easy to add them to your fence. When you do, make the hole in your fence bigger to clear dust and debris easier and faster.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

Here's a snapshot of one of my router tables,you will see a slot cutter installed in the router this will give you a hint why the fence needs to split.
This just one bit of many that need the extra room to run .

I have come up with a new type of fence I call a T & G fence but at this point I will not show you that one ,just this one for now .
You will also see the big hole behind the router bit ,this hole will let just about any bit you can buy run on your router table without a reworking of the fence.

The Vac. hole should be 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" in size and then make a plug with a hole saw and put in a hole for the hose size you now have, you will some day move up to a big vac. that will have a 2 1/4" or a 2 1/2" hose size the standard for the 4gal to 5 gal. vac.
The router will make tons of chips and fill up a small Vac. can in a heart beat. .

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/show-n-tell/2282-just-some-shop-snapshots-rt6.jpg

Hope this helps >
Bj 

NOTE****
You may say,But I will never use a slot cut and why should I,lets say you want to put in a 1/8" or a 1/4" dado slot in a long run on a board the standard router bits work great for this job BUT the chips get hung up in the slot and get the bits hot not to say anything about the 1/8" breaking off because of the load on a small bit,the slot cutter will do this job all day long quick and easy with almost no load on the router or the cutter.
But you need a fence that will let them run free behind the fence for the most part.
Many router bits do the same thing,flush with the bearing on the bit(s) 80% of your bits will have bearing on them,most of the time you will not use the bearing it's just a way to zero out the bit to the fence front.


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

AndyGTC,

Thank you for the kind words, I saw some work by raw beginners that I was impressed with too, that gave me the courage to attempt more than I thought I was capable of. To be quite honest I made more mistakes on this project than I thought I would but at the same time, I'm very pleased with the modest results so now it's just a time to improve my skills so I make less mistakes. One thing for sure, doing this I've learned a ton of stuff that will make me a better woodworker....

I think that's all a person can really ask....except to also work safely and have fun at it too.

KarateEd......


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks everybody for their suggestions, I will try to incorporate the changes in my fence to make it much more usable.

KarateEd......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

For my small part KarateEd You're Welcome

Bj


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## cherokee (Feb 9, 2006)

Hi all
first many thanks for ur replies and advice.

my appoligies for not responding earlier. Was due to illnes and itsaffect on a 67 year old. ,takes time and care to recover these days.

however im up and running again probably fitter than before,and planning my strategy to make use of all ur advices, look into them and apply when time becomes available

was in the midle of major allteration to my old 1675 ex stable house in midcalder village village scoland which im developing into a smart home.

so am now finnishing all othe aspects of the allterations then into panneling and decorative work asap.

hope i havent been to long winded. 

thanks for all hope u forgive me

gl in allur router dreams

Cherokee


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## Pieters (Nov 11, 2005)

Hi everyone
How do I install a Festool OF1400 in a table?
Pieters


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## dan_public (Jun 15, 2006)

Pieters,

Hi. I just bought an OF1400. Even with my limited experience with it, I great results on the first try. Excellent router! But...

I'm not sure that it's the best option for a router table. There are other routers that don't have the features and quality of the OF1400, but will work nicely in a router table. 

A couple of months ago, I bought a Hitachi M12V. Originally, I had planned to use it for my current project, and then buy an OF1400 sometime in the future and install the Hitachi in a table.

The Hitachi is big, powerful, and runs very smoothly. Unfortunately, it's plunge and depth controls are abysmal (IMO). I don't know if I got a defective one, but I couldn't even zero it out. After 4 hours of messing with it, I gave up.

Since I had some router work that needed to be done immediately, I ran out and purchased the Festool router. It took me a total of 15 minutes from the time I first took it from its systainer until I got my first complete test slot cut. The resulting slot was dead center in the edge of the plywood I was working on. It was perfect! I was (and am) VERY happy with the router.

My plan now is to find a decent router lift and collet extension for the Hitachi, and install it in a table. 

You may want to consider something similar. Maybe a big, powerful (3+ HP), fixed base router for your table. This might be simpler and less expensive in the long run, and saves your 1400 for hand-held work.

Good luck,

Dan.


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Hi Folks, 

This is an old post but it's where my original pics of my router table were so I thought it best to put these pics here for comparison. Doc here are those pics as promises. I'll also be adding an auxilliary fence as was suggested in this thread earlier. I've come into some nicely finished plywood shelving that's actually very straight so it's time for that also.

The cut that I did was a straight bit - 1/2". I did it in one pass which I normally would do in 2 passes and it came out just fine.

I ended up shimming the plate up in the table after recutting the hole to fit the new plate. I used Red Green's tip of using duct tape to do the shimming. Like he says, if you aren't handsome then you'd better be handy.

One question....I want to route a 'lip' on the center hole on the plate to accept inserts for different size bits. Can anyone give me their best methods to do this?

Thanks,

Hope you like the pics.

KarateEd......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

1st. let me say you did a fine job 

Now for the center hole lip,,,it's hard to tell what size hole you now have in the base plate,,it looks like it pushing 2"....is that true ?

It's a easy job if it's 1 3/4" or smaller if not it's going to take some work...
And what size of brass inserts do you have or what size do you want to use O.D. ?


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I found the easiest way to make the guide hole was to use forstner bits. You start with the larger bit for the outside diam. of the guide, then finish with the smaller one. Since you already have the hole cut, I'm not too sure how you'll make the lip. Might be able to get it with a fly cutter if you can align the hole on a drill press accurately.


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks guys for your comments.

BJ you have an incredibly good eye. The hole is exactly 2". So I guess I need a lip around that to hold inserts. This will allow me to have a minimal opening when using smaller bits. That's the purpose I'm looking at. I've found that sometimes with small bits a piece gets caught because the hole is quite large so I think an insert would help that situation. I just don't know how the best way is to go about it.

KarateEd......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

The easy way is to set the one you now have to one side and use it for plunge router jobs..

And made a new one , like Mike said use forstner bits ( 1 1/2" and 1 3/4" ones)

But this time you will need to start with a 1/4" hole right in the center of the plate, once the hole is place put in a dowel pin in the drill press and line the pin up in the 1/4" hole then CLAMP the plate in place, once you have it clamped chuck up the 1 3/4" bit and put the lip in place about 1/16" deep to fit the brass insert ( Oak-Park type) then chuck up the 1 1/2" bit and drill the center hole out...

NOTE ***B/4 you drill the 1/4" holle out all the way, use it to line up the router to the plate.......then drill the mounting holes out and then drill then 
1 1/2" hole out.

have fun

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=51152&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=41778&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1

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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Alrighty then.....back to the drawing board.

Thanks BJ....may not get this done for a little while but now I have the solution.

Thanks everyone for their input and as usual BJ....you're the idea guy.

KarateEd.......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome Ed

I have done it so many times and after a time or two it sticks.. 

You may also may want to send off for the one down below,it comes with the rings you want and it looks like you can cut it off on bolt ends and make it fit the hole you now have...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94331
plus the brass guides for it..below
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95160
or
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=51153&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1

==============


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## mntbighker (Dec 20, 2007)

dtaylor15 said:


> Here is a subject on routers that I can talk about...I have a table which I got from Eagle America, purchased just the top from them, and at Home Depot purchased a scratch & dent bathroom vanity cabinet, it has a open cabinet and a drawer on the bottom...I added a 2nd drawer about mid way, I was using a m12v then, and it had plenty of room to hang, I wasn't sure about my own skills of making the top, but this set up worked nice, the cabinet was 30.00, and it is solid, really works nicely....Dennis


Thanks a million Dennis, I was about to build a cabinet for my BenchDog ProTop and I really love the idea of starting with a ready made cabinet. I'm going shopping later this week while waiting for the 4 inch extension to arrive. I will eventually build a "real" router table cabinet but for now this will be a great short term answer. Did you broaden the base at all or was it large enough to be stable?

--Mark


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## raybo (Nov 10, 2007)

I am new to woodworking (retired dentist) and I just built a router table based on plans in a book by Carol Reed (The Router Lady). It was involved and indeed some steps required a router to build the table! It was well worth the effort. I learned more about the craft and routing in particular than I could have from books. The table itself is very functional to the extent that I can mount my router both both vertically and horizontally. Raybo.

spellers of the world "UNTIE"


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## woodchip7 (May 21, 2007)

here's my version. plans came from I believe an old copy of American Woodworker magazine. Of course I tweeked the plans to my requirements.

Woodchip


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Beautiful piece of shop furniture. Too nice to get covered with sawdust.

What are you hiding with the sheets?


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## woodchip7 (May 21, 2007)

Mike,
Hiding paint cans, shop clutter, DeWalt miter saw and junk. That pic was taken in my old home in Puyallup, Wa. Now live in Mazeppa, Mn. Currently converting a 3 car garage to wood shop. Sorry I don't have any pics yet.

Woodchip


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