# dado blade for spline joining



## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

i got a table saw, and am interested in trying to make some boxes with miter spline joints. I've researched, and think i need a dado blade?
when i search to buy 10" dado blades there are a huge variety from single blades to sets, various types of teeth.

can anyone tell me the blade that would work best for what I'm trying to do?


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

I guess it depends on the thickness of your wood. Doing 3/4" you would be ok with a 1/8" blade cut. You could adjust the cut with just a regular blade. I have done many half laps joints on my radial arm with just a regular blade, sure it takes more time, BUT it works.


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## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

fire65 said:


> I guess it depends on the thickness of your wood. Doing 3/4" you would be ok with a 1/8" blade cut. You could adjust the cut with just a regular blade. I have done many half laps joints on my radial arm with just a regular blade, sure it takes more time, BUT it works.


by 'regular' blade, do you mean the one that comes with the saw?
i just ordered the 
15-Amp 10-in Table Saw dewalt from lowes. i'm not sure if it even comes with a blade.

so when i walk into the store, what am i looking for a 10" _____ table saw blade 

thanks... sorry i'm so under-educated on this. I appreciate your help.


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

First of all you need a blade with a flat bottom cut. Many saw blades have an angled cut on the top of the tooth. A dado that can be adjusted to different thicknesses is more flexible. The width of your spline will vary according to a number of factors such as number of splines, box size, strength desired, etc.


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## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

denniswoody said:


> First of all you need a blade with a flat bottom cut. Many saw blades have an angled cut on the top of the tooth. A dado that can be adjusted to different thicknesses is more flexible. The width of your spline will vary according to a number of factors such as number of splines, box size, strength desired, etc.


small boxes (5"x12" ish) with 1/8" splines

so i'm asking for a 1/8" thick flat bottom cut 10" table saw blade?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

here's just one more way to do it on the router table and it's safe and easy.

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2482-deep-spline-slot-jigs.html

==


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Dado blade can get quite expensive I really don't see why you need a ten inch a eight inch will do (you can buy a single adjustable dado blade but they will not cut a flat bottom, I would not recommend one of these ) you have number of manufacturers of dado blades you have Forrester, freud , craftsman,CMT, and numerous others. The better ones cost more money this is one product I believe every shop should own buy a good one last a life time good luck


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## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

Semipro said:


> Dado blade can get quite expensive I really don't see why you need a ten inch a eight inch will do (you can buy a single adjustable dado blade but they will not cut a flat bottom, I would not recommend one of these ) you have number of manufacturers of dado blades you have Forrester, freud , craftsman,CMT, and numerous others. The better ones cost more money this is one product I believe every shop should own buy a good one last a life time good luck


Shop DEWALT 15-Amp 10-in Table Saw at Lowes.com

Shop DEWALT 15-Amp 10-in Table Saw at Lowes.com

that is the table saw i ordered. it said 10", so i thought i needed 10" blades for it.

i'm really new to all of this. thanks for your patience. so an 8" standard blade that will cut a flat bottom, 1/8" thick cut?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

sjonesphoto said:


> i got a table saw, and am interested in trying to make some boxes with miter spline joints. I've researched, and think i need a dado blade?
> when i search to buy 10" dado blades there are a huge variety from single blades to sets, various types of teeth.
> 
> can anyone tell me the blade that would work best for what I'm trying to do?


Here... done w/ a single blade and not a stacked set up...

Woodworking - How to Make Spline Miter Joints - Wood Project ...

here's some information on blades.. hope this helps... sorry the associated pictures didn't post...
I can email the full attachment if you like, with pictures, all done in redundancy..

*Hook Angles: *

The hook angle is the amount of forward or backward lean each tooth has. A hook angle can be thought of as the angle at which the tip enters the material. If the saw tip enters the material at an angle it will be more efficient than if it slaps down flat.* A 20 degree positive hook angle is used on rip blades to pull the wood into the blade. Standard hook angles range from 5 to 15 degrees positive. Steeper angles, from 18 to 22 degrees, are most effective for ripping and cutting softer materials.* Hard materials require a shallow angle such as 6 degrees. Negative hook angles, usually -5 degrees, are used to prevent self-feeding of materials and give the operator maximum control over the feed of cut.
Using a saw blade with a positive hook angle to cut metal, such as aluminum trim, can be dangerous because the blade will have a strong tendency to grab the material causing the operator to lose control.* To prevent self-feeding, sliding miter saws and radial-arm saws require a blade with a negative tooth angle.
*In general, a blade with a positive hook angle is a faster-feeding blade and one with a negative hook is less aggressive.* One thing we need to add here is that you ALWAYS want a negative hook for cutting metal - it seems to work better for cutting Melamine too.

*Tangential Clearance Angle*:

You measure down the side of the tip and the difference it is the difference between front and back.* As you cut material it gets compressed and springs back after the cutting edge passes. A steep side clearance angle gives plenty of room for the material to expand and prevents heating and burning. However a very flat side clearance angle gives a smoother cut*

*Top Clearance Angle:*

The Top Clearance Angle is the angle between the top of the tooth and an imaginary line tangent with the cutting circle of the blade. This angle varies according to the hardness of the material being cut, 12 degrees for hard and 15 degrees for softer materials..

*Cutting Angle:* 

The angle between the upper face of the saw blade and the material being cut. Also known as a rake angle.

*Clearance Angle:*

The angle between the lower face of a saw blade and the material being cut.
Radial Clearance Angle (Radial Side Clearance) 
The clearance angle on the side of the tooth. You measure down the side of the tip and it is the difference between front and back.

*Relief Angle:*

The angle the top of the tooth makes away from the cutting edge to a line tangent to the blades circumference.
Two Kinds of Grinds (tooth shapes or tooth configurations) 
The tip on the left has a very narrow side clearance.* This gives good cuts but heats up rapidly and wears a great deal compared to the more conventional grind on the right.

*Saw Tip Configurations: *(also Styles or Grinds)

The overall shape of a saw tip is called the "grind" because it is ground in after the tip is put on the saw body.

*FTG: *(Flat Top Grind)

Used on rip blades for fast, efficient cuts along the grain.* A square (also Flat or Flat Top) Grind is durable and long lasting. It is used for ripping and can be used on general purpose, thin kerf saw blades..

*Advantages:* 
Strong, straight cutting and easy to maintain...
*Disadvantages:* 
Takes a lot of force and likely to chip or tear out on exiting cut.* Not a good design for chip removal.

*ATB:* (Alternate Top Bevel)

The tops of alternating teeth are beveled to one side of the blade or the other at approximately 15 degrees. This creates a sharp point and a sharper cutting edge for better cut quality without chipping or splinters. ATB is generally used cross cutting wood, plywood, veneer, hardboard, fiberboard and particle board.*

*Advantages:* 
Little or not tearout and easy chip removal....
*Disadvantages:*
Hard to sharpen without expensive equipment, easy to chip and wears rapidly.*

*ATBR = * (ATB with Raker)

*High ATB:* (Alternate Top Bevel with steeper angles)

Steeper bevel than the standard ATB for chip-free cuts on Melamine and plastic laminate without the use of a scoring blade. A High ATB is generally a blade with an angle over 20 degrees. It is used on brittle materials.

*ATAF:* (Alternate Top Bevel with Alternate Face Bevels)

Besides grinding the top at an angle you can also grind the face at an angle. When combined into an ATAF (Alternate top –Alternate Face grind) you get a sharper cutting, more pointed edge. This is used on the most brittle materials. You start with alternate slants on the tops then grind the faces of the tips so that they slant as well. Standard face left below and beveled face right.

*Combination Tooth (4&1) - Planer/Combination:*

Planer Combination combines 4 Alternate Top Bevel Teeth with 1 raker. The basic function of the raker tooth, which is lower than the tips of the scoring teeth and narrower. It removes the V-shaped piece of material left in the center of the cut by the alternating top bevel teeth. This tooth configuration provides a very smooth cut. Often each group is divided by a large gullet on the saw blade. The design is used on combination blades for ripping and crosscutting. You can use a simple ATB when you cut clean through but an ATB will leave a ridge down the middle of a groove. The raker tooth is lower and narrower than the ATB tips and cleans up that ridge. The raker also helps keep the blade square in the cut and the blade running straight.

*Advantages:* 
Little tear out, good chip removal and straight cutting
*Disadvantages:** 
Hard to sharpen without expensive equipment, easy to chip and wears rapidly.

*Hollow Ground:*(HG)

Hollow faced grind used for cutting melamine and other challenging materials. Most often used on vertical panel saws. Here we show three types. Hollow ground is most commonly the circular shape but not always. In this case 'hollow ground' refers to the grind on the top of the tip but the face can also be ground in one of these shapes.

*TCG:* (Triple Chip Grind)

A Triple Chip Grind (TCG) has a trapezoidal tip that cuts a groove with slanting sides. This is followed up by a square top tip that makes the side of the groove square. The first tooth, or lead tooth, has a double 45 degree angle corner bevel. This is followed by a flat topped raker tooth ground lower than the lead tooth. The raker tooth removes the corners left on both sides by the beveled lead tooth. Triple Chip Grinds combines a balanced cutting force, low tooth drag and free chip flow. This helps to eliminate chipping in brittle material such as chip board, and laminates. This divides the chips to achieve smooth cuts in hard materials such as MDF, OSB, and plastics. This tooth design is also used on blades for cutting non-ferrous material. Use TCG grind when cutting plastics, aluminum, and non ferrous metals.

*Advantages:* 
Good wear, straight cutting, Low drag with good chip flow.
*Disadvantages:** 
Hard to maintain without precision equipment. Tends to produce chip outs.

*California Triple Chip:*(C-TCG)

Specialty tooth design for miter saws. Used in picture frame shops, window and door manufacturers or anywhere that miter saws are used.

*Solid Surface Scoring Blade:*

Commonly used when you need clean cuts on both sides of the material.* The scoring blade cuts the underside of the material.* It cuts just ahead of the main blade which cuts from the top.* It must be precisely aligned with the top blade.* It is best if the moan and scoring blades are treated as a set and are both sharpened at the same time. 

*Conical scoring tip:*

There are a great many other grinds and some of them are highly specialized. In a plant producing MDF or plywood panels the sides of the panel are trimmed after they are pressed and cooked. One side of the cut is the 4x8 sheet seen by the customer. The other side is scrap which gets reground. A saw blade in this application may have all the teeth cutting on one side.

*Conclusion:*

There are about a hundred parts to a saw blade depending on how you break them down. These are the saw tip, braze alloy, gullet size and shape, shoulder size and shape, expansion slots and the saw plate or steel saw body.

There are over five thousand grades of carbide with some wearing longer and some being tougher. Some slide through the cut faster and last longer while others are much harder to break. The braze material is much like the suspension in a car. It keeps the tip on and can prevent or eliminate tip loss and breakage. The gullet has to be the right size and shape to handle all the material the tooth cuts but you need as much metal as possible for strong shoulders behind the saw tips. The size and shape of the shoulder can help control the feed rate and a bump on the shoulder can be an important safety feature to control kickback. As a saw blade heats up the outside grows more than the inside so you need expansion slots to keep the blade flat and true. Finally different saw blades are made of different kinds of steel to increase wear, toughness and flatness.

In addition to all the design considerations, some blades are just made much better than others. An easy measurement is side clearance or how far the tip sticks out from the steel body. Some blades may have a variation of as much as 0.005" from one tip to another while others will be at least ten times more precisely ground with a variation of 0.0004".* 

*Hook angle...*

If you put a straight edge from the center of the hole and out to the tooth tip, the angle of the cutting tooth in relation to the straight edge is the hook angle.

If there is a space there it is positive hook angle and if the tooth is partially behind the straight edge it is negative hook angle.

You would use a positive hook angle for a table saw where you push the wood through the blade.

You would use a negative hook angle for a sliding mitre box or radial arm saw where the wood is held stationary and the blade is pulled through. With a positive hook angle in this application, the blade would try to climb through the wood on its own and the operator would have to actually hold the sliding arm from going too fast. This is very dangerous, having to slow down the moving blade, so a negative hook angle is a must.

How ever...

A negative hook works well in a table saw when cutting AL, acrylic, cardboard, polycarbonite, melamine and composite flooring...
Assuming you start with a high quality blade, a higher tooth count will leave a cleaner cut. For 10", generally 60T to 80T is about right. It's worth noting that even though more teeth give a cleaner cut, there's no free lunch...more teeth also means more heat, more resistance, and more chance of burning, so a happy medium is suggested.

A low to negative hook angle (aka "rake") is recommended for a "sliding" CMS or a RAS, but you don't need a negative hook angle for a standard chop saw or CMS.* Anything with a hook of 15° or less is suitable for a CMS.*

Tooth grind is another important consideration.* A "Hi-ATB" grind is an Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) grind with a very steep bevel angle of ~ 25° to 40°.**(not to be confused with "hook angle". The higher the bevel angle of the teeth, the cleaner*slicing it'll be and*lower the*amount of tearout, but will also tend to have the shortest tip life of any grind. For a hobbyist, a good Hi-ATB blade can still last a long time if you keep it clean. Not always the best choice for higher volumes.
There are also several good choices with a standard "ATB" grind....not quite as clean cutting as the Hi-ATB, but will have slightly better tip life. For very high volumes, a triple chip grind (TCG) will give the longest edge life, but not necessarily the cleanest cut.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

There's nothing wrong with owning a 10 inch dado blades I just don't know what use it would be you think the circumference of blade would 10" it would rise out of the saw 3 inches when will you ever cut a 3 inch deep dado. What is important is the number of chippers a shims you get to adjust to different with Widths and that is well balanced
Remember you will need a Dado insert for the saw you can either make one or buy one.
I personally try not to give a direct recommendation for certain tool everybody has to make your own choices unless it's really bad I don't mention it. Like most of the other forum members I've got a Lotta two's of different things only because I didn't buy the right one the first time.
Someone else might want to give your recommendation of a certain that dado blade to me if pay for Quality you normally get quality


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You can run a 7 1/4" circular saw blade as long as it is 5/8" hole. 10" dado sets aren't common, 6" and 8" are the norm because most saws can't power a set of 10" blades. In fact, at 15 amps you may should stick with 6". I have an old Craftsman 6" set for a 1 hp saw I used to have and they do not cut a flat bottom groove. The outside blades cut deeper than the chippers do. If you buy a dado set it is something you have to be careful about. Both my dado sets consist of two outside blades that are 1/8" thick and a set of chippers that are 1/8" plus one blade that is 1/16". You use shims to fine tune the width to what you need.

For 1/8" spline grooves a 1/8" saw blade is all you need. If the groove is a little wider then just move the fence a bit and make another cut. An 8" blade may cost as much as a 10" because they are less common and the selection in that size is much more limited. An alternate tooth bevel blade with a raker tooth will probably be good enough for what you want. With that type blade you have teeth that bevel left and right and then every few teeth is one that is flat across the top. Check out Forrester's website and read the blade descriptions and you will find one that will work for you.


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## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> Here... done w/ a single blade and not a stacked set up...
> 
> Woodworking - How to Make Spline Miter Joints - Wood Project ...
> 
> ...


wow... thanks!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

sjonesphoto said:


> Shop DEWALT 15-Amp 10-in Table Saw at Lowes.com
> 
> Shop DEWALT 15-Amp 10-in Table Saw at Lowes.com
> 
> ...


check to see if that saw will take a stacked dado... also I believe the MFGR doesn't want you yo use a wobble dado... 
take a second look too the Bosch 4100 series.. I do a lot of work with that saw.. 
it will accept a full dado st but hates the wobble blade...

BTW... I am very satisfied with Freud - using them at production levels...


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## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> You can run a 7 1/4" circular saw blade as long as it is 5/8" hole. 10" dado sets aren't common, 6" and 8" are the norm because most saws can't power a set of 10" blades. In fact, at 15 amps you may should stick with 6". I have an old Craftsman 6" set for a 1 hp saw I used to have and they do not cut a flat bottom groove. The outside blades cut deeper than the chippers do. If you buy a dado set it is something you have to be careful about. Both my dado sets consist of two outside blades that are 1/8" thick and a set of chippers that are 1/8" plus one blade that is 1/16". You use shims to fine tune the width to what you need.
> 
> For 1/8" spline grooves a 1/8" saw blade is all you need. If the groove is a little wider then just move the fence a bit and make another cut. An 8" blade may cost as much as a 10" because they are less common and the selection in that size is much more limited. An alternate tooth bevel blade with a raker tooth will probably be good enough for what you want. With that type blade you have teeth that bevel left and right and then every few teeth is one that is flat across the top. Check out Forrester's website and read the blade descriptions and you will find one that will work for you.


thank you! this is what I needed. a 1/8" saw blade. alternate tooth bevel blade with a raker tooth... i'll look at forresters site now. thanks.


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## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> You can run a 7 1/4" circular saw blade as long as it is 5/8" hole. 10" dado sets aren't common, 6" and 8" are the norm because most saws can't power a set of 10" blades. In fact, at 15 amps you may should stick with 6". I have an old Craftsman 6" set for a 1 hp saw I used to have and they do not cut a flat bottom groove. The outside blades cut deeper than the chippers do. If you buy a dado set it is something you have to be careful about. Both my dado sets consist of two outside blades that are 1/8" thick and a set of chippers that are 1/8" plus one blade that is 1/16". You use shims to fine tune the width to what you need.
> 
> For 1/8" spline grooves a 1/8" saw blade is all you need. If the groove is a little wider then just move the fence a bit and make another cut. An 8" blade may cost as much as a 10" because they are less common and the selection in that size is much more limited. An alternate tooth bevel blade with a raker tooth will probably be good enough for what you want. With that type blade you have teeth that bevel left and right and then every few teeth is one that is flat across the top. Check out Forrester's website and read the blade descriptions and you will find one that will work for you.


link for forrester? can't find the site


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

sjonesphoto said:


> link for forrester? can't find the site


might be the spelling..

https://www.forrestblades.com/

http://www.freudtools.com/


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Factory Reconditioned Bosch 4100-RT 10 in. Worksite Table Saw


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

sjonesphoto;
i'm really new to all of this. thanks for your patience. [B said:


> so an 8" standard blade that will cut a flat bottom, 1/8" thick cut[/B]?


actually it's 5/32" thick and not 1/8"...
and the blade for a flat bottom cut would be a FTG... go with a 10" blade... several different jobs.. one blade...

want 1/4" slots... go with a full cut..

IRL a 1/4" kerf is really 17/64-9/32"...


FTG: (Flat Top Grind)

Used on rip blades for fast, efficient cuts along the grain.* A square (also Flat or Flat Top) Grind is durable and long lasting. It is used for ripping and can be used on general purpose, thin kerf saw blades..


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I doubt that I've ever cut a dado/rebate/ _deeper_ than maybe an inch, most less than 3/4" deep. I've never had any reason to regret buying my 8" set. 
Keep in mind that there's more energy delivered at the rim of an 8" blade than a 10" blade, all else being equal. Think of it in terms of a short crescent wrench applied to the motor shaft as opposed to a honkin' long armed one. Which one would you choose if you wanted to stall the motor?
I'm not sure if anybody specifically mentioned it, but the best dado sets will have all the individual blade tips ground to give a precisely flat bottom to the trough. That's the theory, but it's a bit annoying when they give you a rather uneven bottom because of minute irregularities in the diameter of the individual blades.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

4 in. Carbide Tip Plate Joiner Blade
FOR THE ROUTER TABLE 
==


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## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

Several of the folks have recommended NOT using a 10" blade which I agree. Mine is a 8" Forrest Dado King which does a great job. Don't forget you will need a dado throat plate on the tablesaw. Another possibility instead of the tablesaw and dado blade would be to use something like Oak Park's router set for making 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" box joints. Look at all possibilities prior to making a purchase. Malcolm / Kentucky USA


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## Selwyn Senior (Jan 11, 2014)

*Not All Dewalt's Take Dado Blades*

Dewalt seem to have a good design for their saws. I especially like the system for setting the rip fence. Not wishing to bring a dark cloud but you may wish to check that your Dewalt will accept a dado blade. I'm researching saws as I need to replace mine. The first Dewalt I looked at in Home Depot was a good price but reviews mentioned that the arbour was too short to put a dado blade on. I downloaded the owners' manual at there was a statement near the end of the manual that this saw was not for use with a dado blade. The other thing I learned was that a 10 inch saw blade did not necessarily equate to a 10 inch dado. The second Dewalt I looked at would accept an 8 inch stacking dado.

Best of luck.
Pete


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bobj3 said:


> 4 in. Carbide Tip Plate Joiner Blade
> FOR THE ROUTER TABLE
> ==


the warning label on that blade says it's for a plate joiner only... your idea is just plain nuts..

go with a slot cutter instead..

Freud Tools | 2" (Dia.) Stacked Slotting Set


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

I agree with John if you buy quality you get quality. A 8" dado will cut deeper than you are likely to ever cut and it will place less load on your saw. The single blade "wobblers" are to be avoided. They make nasty cuts and cause your saw to vibrate. I have one I bought 20 years ago and haven't used but once. That's how you get 2s of something's.


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## sjonesphoto (Feb 19, 2014)

on forrest saw blades site: (so i'm thinking this is what i should order?)

WW10401125 

10" Saw Blade -40T

#1 Grind for square cut box joints,splines, keyways and drawer bottom groves
1/8" 5/8" $135.00

Qty:


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## Ben I (May 21, 2010)

*DADO info*

I see that you are planning on buy a single blade. If that is your choice, so be it.

But, if you choose to buy a Dado blade set make sure it includes a 3/16" breaker. Many dado sets don't include the 3/16" breaker which helps greatly when setting jup the desired width of the dado set.

Regards,
ben


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

more information...
I be very satisfied with Freud...

Freud Tools


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## phillip.c (Aug 9, 2012)

I own that saw. It does not accept a dado blade. Arbor is very short.


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

I have an 8" Freud and have been very happy with it. My last experience with Forrest was not what I expected. Left some hard feelings with me


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

kywoodchopper said:


> Several of the folks have recommended NOT using a 10" blade which I agree. Mine is a 8" Forrest Dado King which does a great job. Don't forget you will need a dado throat plate on the tablesaw. Another possibility instead of the tablesaw and dado blade would be to use something like Oak Park's router set for making 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" box joints. Look at all possibilities prior to making a purchase. Malcolm / Kentucky USA


FYI-- Only because of the horse required to spin it and the inertia weight when stopping. I have a Royce/Ayer 10" dado set, but I have 4.5hp.

With 15amp, I'd say (if the arbor was able to take a dado) a 6" set.

But for 1/8", then an FTG toothed blade with an 1/8" kerf. Most plentiful of those are rip blades... and pricewise, Frued. There are specialty flat bottom blades sold as sets for cutting box joints... But if the only size you need is 1/8", those would be overkill and more costly. There are also specialty grooving bits, but those are priced for high-volume commercial work.

Of course if you were in-good with a saw shop, they could take one of your old standard blades and change the tooth config by regrinding it... for less than the cost of a new blade... 

But (again that but)-- With the size of the pieces the OP is doing, it could be done on a router table w/ a slot cutter. A straight 1/8" router bit would be an option, but cutting slots are hard on straight bits that small in diameter. (IMHO)


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Stephanie,

Before using your table saw to cut 1/8" splines, make or buy a zero clearance for the table saw so your work piece doesn't fall into the wide blade slot of the insert provided by the saw manufacturer. This can be very dangerous. Some manufacturers sell ready made zero clearance inserts for their saws, but it's fairly easy and much cheaper to make your own.

You can duplicate the perimeter and thickness of the insert that came with your table saw from wood, Corian, or HDPE, then install it with the blade in the fully down position. If the blade still touches the insert when it's fully down you can use a smaller diameter blade to make a partial cut and then switch to the 10 inch blade to complete the cut. Once the blade is installed, start the saw and slowly raise the blade up through the insert to cut the slot. If you change blades it's usually best to make another zero clearance insert for the new blade. I write on the bottom of my inserts the identifying information for the blade that goes with it and keep them with my saw blades. Each blade is slightly different so it's best to have a zero clearance insert for each of your blades.

For making the best spline cuts you will need a blade that produces a flat bottom cut For doing smaller fine quality work you will want a blade with a high tooth count. Spline cuts are never very deep so if you buy a saw blade for this single purpose a smaller diameter blade will do just fine, but a 10" blade should work OK for this too.

For spline cuts you will be standing your wood up on edge and against the fence. Make certain that the table saw fence is high enough to do this safely and make sure that you have some way to hold and feed the work past the blade that does not put your fingers close to the blade. I have a 5" rule for this. If at any time during a saw cut my fingers will come within 5" of the blade I find another way to make the cut that will keep my fingers further away from the blade. A push/clamping fixture may need to be built to hold and feed you work safely. You don't want your fingers to have a spline joint in them.

Charley


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Charles, being facetious, that would be a finger joint.......

I agree with safety being paramount.

Stephanie: 

If your saw will not take a dado blade, there are may plans on the 'net for mitre spline joints.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

James,

A single spline joint to reinforce the joint of a picture frame could be cut across the mitered end of 2 boards that will form something like the corner joint of a picture frame. This is usually done with the board standing on it's mitered end and against the saw fence while being passed across the blade and a "zero clearance insert" would be required to do this safely, or you might be cutting decorative spline joints across the corner of an already assembled box so that you could insert contrasting splines as decorative pieces or possibly to make the corner of the mitered and already assembled box stronger. This would best be done with a fixture that holds the assembled box with it's corner facing down so it can be passed over a table saw blade or a router bit to cut this "spline" slot.
I wouldn't call either way a "finger" or "box" joint. They are "spline"joints.

This is a "Finger joint router bit 1 PC 1 2" Shank Adjustable Finger Joint Router Bit | eBay

This is a "Box" joint router bit 1 PC 1 2" SH 5 Slots Adjustable Box Joint Router Bit | eBay 

A "finger joint" has tapered cut fingers that mate with a second board having similar tapered cut fingers and intended to extend the lengths of boards to make paint grade long board stock out of many short boards glued end to end. These "finger joints" would not be suitable for making the corners of a box. 

A "Box" joint is made with alternating straight square cuts in the ends of the side boards of a box that will mate at right angles to form strong box corners. "Finger" jionts will not mate to form box corners. 


Google Image Result for http://www.table-saw-guide.com/image-files/spline-joint_mitered-spline.jpg


INCRA I-BOX Jig for Box Joints - Amazon.com

The two terms "finger" and "box" have been used incorrectly in several woodworking magazines in the past few years, likely confusing many woodworkers as to which name properly fits which joint and neither one is a "spline joint". I'm sticking to the original old school definitions.

Charley


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

CharleyL said:


> For spline cuts you will be standing your wood up on edge and against the fence. Make certain that the table saw fence is high enough to do this safely and make sure that you have some way to hold and feed the work past the blade that does not put your fingers close to the blade. I have a 5" rule for this. If at any time during a saw cut my fingers will come within 5" of the blade I find another way to make the cut that will keep my fingers further away from the blade. A push/clamping fixture may need to be built to hold and feed you work safely. You don't want your fingers to have a spline joint in them.
> 
> Charley


+1 Bravo Charley!

You covered some very good points. Easiest and safest way to stand on end, besides a high-fence (extension) would be to use an adjustable-angle TS raised panel jig. Once you make or get your hands on one of these, they come in handy for so many things besides just making raised panels! (Look in BJ's uploads for pictures)

Some of the other things Charley went over, (agreed also) can help a budget-priced saw cut very well and add to it's safety factor.

You know, some things I do every day, I don't think about it. I sometimes take for granted that everyone does things that way. 

Thank you for sharing that Charley. 

One other point. All the previous FTG blade recommendations assume that you want a fitted spline joint that would be seen from the side... If not, then any blade will work. If you really look at it, even most dado set's don't leave a flat bottom cut. Finish Dado's do. Also the "spline joint" refers to a whole family of joining, but it most commonly referring a joint with a groove in each side, with a separate floating spline used in that between them. T&G, (some box joints, finger joints)... are types of spline joints.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

MAFoElffen said:


> Also the "spline joint" refers to a whole family of joining, but it most commonly referring a joint with a groove in each side, with a separate floating spline used in that between them. T&G, box joints, finger joints... are types of spline joints.


Biscuits are also a spline. A blind or interrupted spline.


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