# Shop built router lift?



## TanOak (May 31, 2010)

Hello All:

Anyone on this forum built your own router lift? I'm thinking of having a go at a design that uses drill rod and bronze bearings along with a fine threaded rod for height adjustment. If you built your own I'd be interested to hear your stories and see pics. 

Thanks,
Jim


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Jim:

I am in the process of completing a shop-made router lift based on the American Woodworker's article Shop-Made Router Lift - Projects - American Woodworker. I don't have time right now to upload photos (getting ready for work), I'll post later.

Cassandra


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

TanOak said:


> Hello All:
> 
> Anyone on this forum built your own router lift? I'm thinking of having a go at a design that uses drill rod and bronze bearings along with a fine threaded rod for height adjustment. If you built your own I'd be interested to hear your stories and see pics.
> 
> ...


Depending on how sophisticated and how fast in operation it needs to be, you could possibly consider this very simple fast to operate system Jim. It was made by the late Niki who produced many projects shown on this and other forums, some of which were published in magazines.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/5211-router-lift-above-table.html

I decided to make a rather more substantial version to suit my router table and it works like a dream. For setting cutter height gently press the pedal then lock the router when correct height is achieved and for dowelling and mortices, set the depth of cut and stamp on the pedal and it's done.


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## TanOak (May 31, 2010)

Thanks Cassandra! I had seen that project on the magazine web sit and your pics really help. 
Cheers,
Jim


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## TanOak (May 31, 2010)

Thanks Harry!


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Jim:

As promised, here are some shots of my shop-made router lift. Keep in mind that it is a work in progress -- not completed yet. :moil: Oh, by the way, the handle is temporary (just a 1/4-20 carriage bolt.)

One problem I have yet to resolve is the stiffness of the threaded rod to turn. With the router lift laying on the table, it works fine, with just a little resistance to fine adjustment. However, when in place and with weight on it, turning the threaded rod becomes difficult. 

Cassandra


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## TanOak (May 31, 2010)

Great detail, thanks!


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

You're welcome, Jim!

By the way, the router lift is made from: 3/4" Baltic birch plywood, 1/4" plywood, two 3/4" Class L quick shafts, four Oilite bronze bushings, hardwood (cam), a couple of springs, two nylon gears (Boston Gear GP2424Y), 3/8"-16 threaded rod, 3/8"-16 coupling (cut in half) and miscellaneous hardware. 

The photo below shows one of the features I like about the design -- above-table bit changes. Another feature is a quick positioning (to 1/16") with fine adjustment.

Cassandra


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## TanOak (May 31, 2010)

Hello Again Cassandra:

After looking at your pictures and then going back to the American Woodworker site I can see you made quite a few modifications. Using the gears to operate the height adjustment from below the table is clear (and clever). But tell me please about the lock lever and the height adjuster in the up or down position. I'm assuming that you have a half-nut situation where you push the threads against the threaded rod. This allows you to make fine adjustments when the threads are engaged but rapidly reposition height when disengaged? Please comment! Did I miss other modifications? 

Thanks,
Jim


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Jim:

In the photo below, you'll see some of the pieces in making the height adjuster. I took a 3/8"-16 coupler (about 1-3/4" long) and cut it lengthwise down the middle. This forms the half-nut needed in my design. 

The half-nut is then mounted in the moving block, which slides in and out of the mounting block. 

Control of the position of the moving block is done through the use of a shop-made cam. The "handle" (currently a 1/4"-20 carriage bolt) screws into the back of the cam and allows one to control the position of the moving block. The springs keep the moving block against the cam. 

The gearing redirected the fine adjustment to the front of the table, instead of through the table top. I am a bit of a purist in that I want minimal penetration of the table top. My router table design (which should be posted on Router Forums in the next month or two) has a top free of things like a mitre slot, a t-track, tracks to mount the fences, and dust collection ports. There is only one penetration of the table top and that is where the router pops through as seen in my previous posting above. I incorporated Incra's Magnalock Rings (steel insert plates that are held in by magnets.)

You are correct in your assessment of the use of quick adjuster with fine adjustment. With the lever in the up position, the half-nut is away from the threaded rod; thereby allowing quick positioning. With the lever in the down position, the cam pushes the half-nut onto the threaded rod, locking the sled onto a 1/16" position. Then one turns the fine adjustment knob (not shown in my photos) to adjust within the 1/16" steps. I didn't like the idea of spinning the threaded rod so many times to raise the router for a bit change. Total designed travel for the router is 4-3/4". At 1/16" travel per turn of the adjuster, it would take 76 turns for full travel. That takes too much time and effort. With my design, one can quickly move the router anywhere within its travel range within a couple of seconds and without so many turns.

As for changes from the American Woodworker design:
1. Added gearing to redirect the height fine adjustment to the front of the table.
2. Removal of the dust collection port (no room in my design.)
3. Simplification of the router sled. (The AW design used a sled on a sled concept.)
4. Mounting of the two quick shafts is different. AW used a slotted design to tighten the wood around the shafts. I used closely fitting holes, with washers and screws at the end of the shafts to lock the shafts between the mounting blocks.

The rest of the two designs are pretty much the same.

Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Jim:

As for dust collection, I haven't removed it from the overall design of my table, just moved it. The bottom of my router table top has a dust collection chute to suck the dust from the router area. A Y-connector in the dust collection line allows one to add a dust collection point on the fence.

Cassandra


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## TanOak (May 31, 2010)

Very nice, a do it yourself Jointech positioning system! I like it very much. I was just looking at my Jointech system the other day thinking it would be cool to make a tenoning jig sort of like the one that Mathias shows on his woodgears.ca website but with that kind of half nut system. And then there you are implementing just such a system. Thanks for sharing! Your system will motivate me to get to work on some jig projects I've been thinking about. 

Cheers,
Jim


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Cassandra said:


> Hi Jim:
> One problem I have yet to resolve is the stiffness of the threaded rod to turn. With the router lift laying on the table, it works fine, with just a little resistance to fine adjustment. However, when in place and with weight on it, turning the threaded rod becomes difficult.
> 
> Cassandra


Springs or counter weights (and pulleys - like on old windows - I mean "vintage" ) would offset the weight of the router and sled.

Not sure if you want to modify the guts but ... 

Using a piece of UHMW plastic instead of wood for the threaded rod support would cut down on friction. Alternately, eliminate this support and extend the top and bottom flanges of the half-nut/cam holder and add 2 more bushings to support the threaded rod.

I like the geared height adjustment. All you need now is an old drill motor...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

" resistance " I would suggest using a cut threaded rod, it looks like you are using roll threaded type  that is junk the norm  if you want to go with the best use Acme type ,it's always cut type and always clean cut,,,in that way you can use much less of a rod coupling nut for the lift part that would resolve most of the drag part with the load on the rig.

When I put a motor on my lift it took care of all the drag..problems 

======
Just by using two points of contact points in the device..


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> " resistance " I would suggest using a cut threaded rod, it looks like you are using roll threaded type  that is junk the norm  if you want to go with the best use Acme type ,it's always cut type and always clean cut,,,in that way you can use much less of a rod coupling nut for the lift part that would resolve most of the drag part with the load on the rig.
> 
> ...


Agreed! That was the first thought that came to mind. That's why I keeping my eyes open for a decent cut threaded rod locally. No urgency right now. Yes, the rod is a cheapie rolled type.


Have a great weekend,
Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

RJM60 said:


> Springs or counter weights (and pulleys - like on old windows - I mean "vintage" ) would offset the weight of the router and sled.
> 
> Not sure if you want to modify the guts but ...
> 
> ...


Thanks, Robert! I hadn't given that much thought, except as a fix for another problem. However, Bobj3 is right in his posting above. The major problem is the quality (or lack of) of the threaded rod. 

The minor problem is that the moving block tends to rotate slightly when extended to the rod. Your solution would help reduce this problem. I am considering the remaking of the height adjuster to incorporate changes, like your suggestion. If I do, I'll post pix of the remake.

Have a great weekend,
Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

TanOak said:


> Very nice, a do it yourself Jointech positioning system! I like it very much. I was just looking at my Jointech system the other day thinking it would be cool to make a tenoning jig sort of like the one that Mathias shows on his woodgears.ca website but with that kind of half nut system. And then there you are implementing just such a system. Thanks for sharing! Your system will motivate me to get to work on some jig projects I've been thinking about.
> 
> Cheers,
> Jim


Knock it off, Jim! Quit giving me more ideas, as I have too many as it is!

Just kidding!! Thanks for idea and the complement!

Have a great weekend,
Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hey Bob:

Started browsing the web for Acme cut threaded rod. Ironically, there are two places near where I work that handle Acme. Guess I'll be shopping at lunch time on Monday.

Thanks!

Cassandra


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Acme.... Acme... Isn't that where Wile E. Coyote used to shop for his stuff to catch the Roadrunner in the 60's cartoon? <g>


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Here’s a bit of an update.

I have added the fine adjustment mechanism. It’s been a riot getting it in – figuring out which sequence in which to assemble the parts.

The horizontal portion of the adjuster consists of the following:
¼”-20 threaded rod
Acorn nut
Knob
Washer with UHMW tape on one side
UHMW tape on router table top brace
Router table top brace
Washer with UHMW tape on one side
Two ¼”-20 nuts, jammed tight and holding the knob and washers against the brace
Boston Gear GP2424Y nylon gear

At the bottom of the threaded rod, I have the following (top down):
Two nuts jammed tight
Washer with UHMW tape on lower side
Nylon washer
Washer
(mounting block)
Washer with UHMW tape on upper side 
Two nuts jammed tight

The fine adjuster moves a bit freer with the adjustments to the nuts made. However, the rod has to be replaced, per Bobj3’s suggestion.

Next step is to calibrate the alignment of the lift, table top and router to each other. 

Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

A little over two weeks later, and a couple of weekends where family imposed (less time for THE hobby.)

Bobj3, I have taken your suggestion of a better quality threaded rod. I went with 304 stainless, cut-thread, 3/8"-16 rod. Reworked the design of my height adjuster.

Bottom-up listing of parts of new design:
1/4"-20 bolt with nut for locking the bolt in position (height adjustment for threaded rod)
1/4"-20 tee nut fastened on bottom of lower mounting block
0.350" ball bearing in 3/8" steel sleeve, mounted in lower mounting block
threaded rod, with 0.2495" inch hole reamed in top end
1/4" tension pin driven into reamed hole
Boston Gear GP242Y nylon gear driven onto tension pin, then locked with set-screw
1/4 x 1/2 x 5/8" (approx.) nylon sleeve driven onto tension pin, above gear
nylon sleeve runs in hole in upper mounting block

This has greatly reduced the force required to turn the threaded rod. 

My re-design also includes replacing the height-adjuster block, seen in photos above. This part has not been made yet. The re-design includes replacing the half-coupler (in photos above) with a regular nut cut in half and suitably mounted. The height-adjuster above has proven problematic, as it no longer pulls away from the threaded rod sufficiently -- too much friction between the block holding the half-coupler and the body of the height-adjuster.

Will post photos when I manage to get the new height-adjuster block made.

Cassandra


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> " resistance " I would suggest using a cut threaded rod, it looks like you are using roll threaded type  that is junk the norm  if you want to go with the best use Acme type ,it's always cut type and always clean cut,,,in that way you can use much less of a rod coupling nut for the lift part that would resolve most of the drag part with the load on the rig.
> 
> ...


I agree an acme thread might also help; however, roll formed threads are actually superior to cut threads; they have a better surface finish and, for a given thread profile, they are stronger. All high strength bolts and screws have rolled threads.

The threaded rod that is sold in most hardware stores may seem junky because the steel alloy used is relatively inexpensive and post thread forming heat treatment is little to none (if the alloy would even support strengthening by heat treatment).

I believe the increased resistance with a threaded rod (compared to an acme thread form) has more to do with the thread form profile angle rather than the way the thread is formed (machined). Acme threads have a 29° angle while UNC threads have a 60° angle. The higher angle increases the torque required to achieve a specific axial load. Consequently, for a given pre-load (axial load) it takes a higher torque to break a nut loose when compared to acme threads. This is good for keeping fasteners tight, which is usually what is desired.

The wider thread form of an acme thread (at the pitch diameter - about halfway between the thread root and crest) also makes them stronger. The increase in strength due to the thread form is much greater than the decrease in strength due to cutting the threads instead of rolling. Also, the acme thread form is not conducive to roll forming.


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## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

Any more updates? I'm following along and like the idea, especially the $$ part. 

Do you have any pix's of the cam mechanism? And are you using this like a "locking" mechanism for the height? 

Thanks for posting the article, I have it on the PC for reference for when I build mine. What kind of router are you using a PC? (Porter Cable) Like this *one*


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Charles:

I'll be away from woodworking for about a month or so. So, won't be posting any more updates for now.

Below are three photos I took during the replacement/redesign of the threaded rod portion.

The two images with the pin, gear and nylon bushing are at the top end of the threaded rod, while the other image is at the bottom end of the rod.

The tee nut is mounted in the tee nut mounting block, which is then screwed to the bottom of the lower mounting block. The sleeve rests on about 1/8" thick layer of the plywood, not on the tee nut.

Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

lemonyx said:


> Any more updates? I'm following along and like the idea, especially the $$ part.
> 
> Do you have any pix's of the cam mechanism? And are you using this like a "locking" mechanism for the height?
> 
> Thanks for posting the article, I have it on the PC for reference for when I build mine. What kind of router are you using a PC? (Porter Cable) Like this *one*


Part 2:

No pix of the cam mechanism, other what can be seen in the photos above. When the lever (currently a carriage bolt) is in the lower position, the cam pushes the half-nut against the threaded rod. When the lever is in the upper position, the springs pull the half-nut away from the threaded rod. 

Since the half-nut's vertical position is fixed relative to the lift, it acts as a position locking mechanism. However, the threaded rod may be turned with the lever in the "locked" position, thereby forcing the half-nut to lift or lower the router lift.

Cassandra


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## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

Cassandra

Thanks for getting back. Which router are you using in this setup? Reason i ask is that my favorite Roybi RE600 fell on it's last leg and in search of another router. When I saw your DIY router lift and thought of the PC 75182 might be the ticket.

Thanks again


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

lemonyx said:


> Cassandra
> 
> Thanks for getting back. Which router are you using in this setup? Reason i ask is that my favorite Roybi RE600 fell on it's last leg and in search of another router. When I saw your DIY router lift and thought of the PC 75182 might be the ticket.
> 
> Thanks again


Hi Charles:

You're very welcome

Bosch 1617EVSPK 2-1/4 Peak HP, Variable Speed

I have installed the Incra MagnaLock ring system (magnetically-held inserts.) They're great for my usage, but the one drawback is that they are not suitable for using with the 3-1/4 Peak HP routers. If the rings had been larger on their outer dimension, then I would have gone with the larger router.

Cassandra

Precision Fence :: Router Table & Accessories :: MagnaLOCK Ring Inserts

INCRA MagnaLOCK Porter Cable Guide Bushing Ring


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Cassandra said:


> They're great for my usage, but the one drawback is that they are not suitable for using with the 3-1/4 Peak HP routers. If the rings had been larger on their outer dimension, then I would have gone with the larger router.
> 
> Cassandra


What do you mean by not being suitable, Cassandra? I use the Magnalocks in my Incra/Jessem Mast-R-Lift with a 75182 and have used Marc Sommerfeld's 3-1/2" horizontal raised panel cutter bit with the 3-5/8" ring. I must be missing something. <g>


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

I have the original book, and thought it was a great build. Keep us informed. very nice lift. Thanks Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Jim:

One of the design criterion for my router table set-up was that the router had to lift high enough, while still in the lift, to facilitate using the stock wrenches to do bit changes. What I have seen is that 3-1/4 HP router motors tend to have body diameters like 4.2 inches or larger. The MagnaLock rings are about 4.05 inches across (not counting the ears.) As one can see in my photo above (July 15, 07:46 a.m.), opening the hole to allow the 4.2 inch diameter router to pass through would not leave much support, if any, for the screws that hold the magnets. 

Of course, if I remove my design criterion of above-table bit changes with the stock wrenches, then I could use the larger HP motors. However, I am not intending to swing large diameter bits very often. So, for the few times that I'll use them I can rely on the slower, bit-by-bit technique.

Of course, I can be wrong in all sorts of things. I have been in the past. But that's me.

Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

You're very welcome, Howard.

Cassandra


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I dunno.. Here's a picture I took last summer to show above-table bit change capacity with my setup. Since then, with an offset wrench it's easy-peasy for me. Your mileage may vary... <g>


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Thanks, Jim!

I am wrong. 

So, that is the PC 75182 3-1/4 HP motor unit (4.2" motor diameter)? 

I believe my error was not accommodating the longer distance from the end of the router motor to the bottom wrench position. 

Cassandra


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## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

Jim

How do you like that PC 75182? As mentioned earlier, my Roybi RE600 quit on me and now looking for a replacement. Where did you get your PC from? This link has the best price so far, have not really searched in earnest. Porter-Cable 75182 5-Speed Replacement Motor for 7518 Router for sale at ToolKing.com!

Just found the lowest price so far on the Porter Cable 75182 5-Speed Replacement Motor for $270 shipped Porter Cable 75182 5-Speed Replacement Motor for Router Model 7518 at Tools Plus


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## jbooherjr (Feb 21, 2010)

*My motorized lift*

A couple pictures of my lift.


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## jtbinvalrico (Aug 24, 2010)

This is an awesome thread....I was wondering what options I had for lifting my old router without a big $$ aftermarket system. The original article is now bookmarked....and I'm following the mods you all make to it. Nice work.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James


You may want to check out the link below, John is a member of forum.

Motorized Router Lift


I did copy John's motor lift but not the same way but it works great  see below

=========



jtbinvalrico said:


> This is an awesome thread....I was wondering what options I had for lifting my old router without a big $$ aftermarket system. The original article is now bookmarked....and I'm following the mods you all make to it. Nice work.


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

Cassandra said:


> Hi Jim:
> 
> As promised, here are some shots of my shop-made router lift. Keep in mind that it is a work in progress -- not completed yet. :moil: Oh, by the way, the handle is temporary (just a 1/4-20 carriage bolt.)
> 
> ...


you could use an ACME threaded rod and nuts,(they'll require less turns end to end too) or wirewheel the existing rod with a fine wirewheel, then polish it with a polishing wheel.(parallel to the threads)


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

radios said:


> you could use an ACME threaded rod and nuts,(they'll require less turns end to end too) or wirewheel the existing rod with a fine wirewheel, then polish it with a polishing wheel.(parallel to the threads)


Hi Martin:

Thanks for your suggestion. The issue had been resolved above.

Cassandra


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## jetpilot (Jul 7, 2010)

jtbinvalrico said:


> This is an awesome thread....I was wondering what options I had for lifting my old router without a big $$ aftermarket system. The original article is now bookmarked....and I'm following the mods you all make to it. Nice work.


I dito the above :lazy::lazy::lazy:::lazy: wow,wow, Yes those smiles are me. For my years of router work I have just done it the hard way of manual adjustment and hand held.. 
I did buy a cheap off the shelf table a few months ago. All I've used it for was to edge a heaping stack of shop built stills and rails for my shop cabinets. When I get
the time to do real woodworking again I will just have to buy a better table and acess's. I have enjoyed the thread and will come back for the finale. Thanks, for the great ideas and info!!!

jetpilot, :dance3::dance3:


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Sorry for the delayed response, Cassandra.. <g>

Yes, that's the PC 7518 "Speedmatic" 5-speed router and it's motor is about 4.2" diameter. 

No problem!!

Jim



Cassandra said:


> Thanks, Jim!
> 
> I am wrong.
> 
> ...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

lemonyx said:


> Jim
> 
> How do you like that PC 75182? As mentioned earlier, my Roybi RE600 quit on me and now looking for a replacement. Where did you get your PC from? This link has the best price so far, have not really searched in earnest. Porter-Cable 75182 5-Speed Replacement Motor for 7518 Router for sale at ToolKing.com!
> 
> Just found the lowest price so far on the Porter Cable 75182 5-Speed Replacement Motor for $270 shipped Porter Cable 75182 5-Speed Replacement Motor for Router Model 7518 at Tools Plus


Ironically, that was my second router.. with the first being a RE600 which I still have. 

I picked it up last summer and for table use I really *like* that router. It's quieter than at least most... 

Though these routers are very popular in production shops, I'm not one of them but here's an example of my experience. This weekend I used Sommerfeld's 2-7/8" diameter Ogee drawer-front bit Ogee Drawer Bit-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood to make about 40' of cut in hard maple drawer fronts (4 passes each). Since my 19yo son was sleeping in the house (I was in the garage) I ran it on its slowest speed (it was really quiet) which is usually a tough test for a router. Routers tend to warm up when you run them like this due to your slowing the cooling fan while loading down the unit. When done, the metal body of the router was within a couple of degrees of room temp.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Hi Cassandra; I haven't read all the post, but is it possibal to add a counter weight? That would make the mech. vertually weightless and allow You to adjust much easier.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

dutchman 46 said:


> Hi Cassandra; I haven't read all the post, but is it possibal to add a counter weight? That would make the mech. vertually weightless and allow You to adjust much easier.


In the concepts to be implemented. Thanks for the suggestion. The concepts call for most of the weight of the router and lift to be countered. Some weight is desirable to counter any slack in the positioner.

Cassandra


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Hi all,
Did you see my shop build lift ?
It is simple, but with quick lift 
Height adjustment and bit change from the top of the table
http://www.lescopeaux.asso.fr/Techniques/clic.php3?url=Docs/Sante_Ascenseur_Defonceuse.pdf

Cheers


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## Thi Nguyen (Jan 21, 2010)

Hello all,
I was contemplating the use of a scissors jack placed under the router to act as a lift, with the crank protruding from the side of the router enclosure. I am concerned about the coarse speed of the crank. I am interested in your experiences using some kind of gears or other solutions to refine the cranking action (and where to buy them)

Regards,
Thi Nguyen


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

Buffalo Tools 2000 Lb 12 Volt Car Jack - EJ212 at The Home Depot

20 Ton Low Profile Air/Hydraulic Bottle Jack

12-volt 2,000-lb. Electric Jack - JCWhitney

=============



Thi Nguyen said:


> Hello all,
> I was contemplating the use of a scissors jack placed under the router to act as a lift, with the crank protruding from the side of the router enclosure. I am concerned about the coarse speed of the crank. I am interested in your experiences using some kind of gears or other solutions to refine the cranking action (and where to buy them)
> 
> Regards,
> Thi Nguyen


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

02101A Imported Mast-R-Liftâ„¢ (9-1/4" X 11-3/4") 

JessEm selling off their offshore-manufactured _02101A Mast-R-Lift™ Router Lift For Fixed Base Routers_ for US$129.99.

Cassandra


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## Thi Nguyen (Jan 21, 2010)

Thank you BJ and Casandra for your responses. I actually ordered the Mast-R-Lift, but I will reserve it for my next router purchase. What I have now is the bigger Ryobi RE-600 router, and the scissors jack. I wasn't looking for a motorized jack, but more like a set of differential gears with a ration of 10:1 so that I can both adjust the router height from the side and do it in fine steps too.

Thi


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

You may want to look at the very high end power lifts,,if you want fine steps..

It's HERE! Exclusive POWERLIFT Motorized Router Lift Pre-Sale

========



Thi Nguyen said:


> Thank you BJ and Casandra for your responses. I actually ordered the Mast-R-Lift, but I will reserve it for my next router purchase. What I have now is the bigger Ryobi RE-600 router, and the scissors jack. I wasn't looking for a motorized jack, but more like a set of differential gears with a ration of 10:1 so that I can both adjust the router height from the side and do it in fine steps too.
> 
> Thi


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## Tisdai (Aug 29, 2010)

A cheaper 12 volt at $55.34 1s here if anyone wants one, I would but the shipping costs to here in the uk would not make it worth while, i will stick to a bottle jack for now :wacko:

http://www.thefind.com/cars/info-scissor-car-jack


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thi Nguyen said:


> Hello all,
> I was contemplating the use of a scissors jack placed under the router to act as a lift, with the crank protruding from the side of the router enclosure. I am concerned about the coarse speed of the crank. I am interested in your experiences using some kind of gears or other solutions to refine the cranking action (and where to buy them)
> 
> Regards,
> Thi Nguyen


I realise that I'm rather late with this post, but for what it's worth, my friend who recently made this simple router table tells me that the jack gives extremely fine adjustment.


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