# Triton Router - Digital Readout Possible?



## ckurdziel (Jun 24, 2014)

I have one of the 3 1/4 hp Triton routers for a table that does not use a lift; it comes with a winder that raises the router up and down when it is in a table. I plan on getting the incra table and fence. I'd like to have digital readout for the router. Has anyone tried this with this router?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I hope to have an answer soon. I emailed customer service at both Triton and Wixey with your question and will share it. I really like my Triton a lot, so i'm also interested in the answer.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Got this answer from CS at Toolstream (Triton), and still waiting for Wixey's response.

Tom:

I got an answer back from the guru. Below I what he said to me:

Hi Debbie

no reason why it shouldn't. Looks like the Trend one which is ok.

Thanks, and have a great day!

Debbie Long


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> Got this answer from CS at Toolstream (Triton), and still waiting for Wixey's response.
> 
> Tom:
> 
> ...


Which "Trend one"? I don't find any Trend instruments other than digital protractors.
Thanks


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I think Wixey will have the most detailed answer, but a look at their website doesn't look very hopeful because they only mention lifts and the Triton isn't on their list. So I'd ignore the Toolstream information, which was just a little too casual to suit me. 

Trend makes a number of routers, a few of which look a little like the Triton

Alternatives: Many specialty bits have setup jigs available. Line the bit up with the jig and you're off and running. Or make you own jig, many of which will be adequate so long as you work with the finished side down. For any bits in sets, I go to Sommerfeld for their matched shank heights. Set the first bit and the others just drop in, in alignment. Sommerfeld has a quick set jig for many critical bits that also takes into account the thickness of the workpiece. They make one for their bits and another for Freud bits. There are a number of bits where simply knowing where the center is is sufficient for setup. 

I can see the advantage of the digital readout for the planer, but not sure it's a great idea for the router where partial turns of the height adjuster produce a predictable rise or fall of the bit.

I'll add any Wixey response as soon as I get it.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Christopher.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Hi Christopher, I just realized this was your first post. So welcome!. This is a really great group. No sign of a response from Wixey yet.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Look at this one from MLCS. It might be able to adapt to your Triton I don't know. I also don't know about the quality of this lift I am just passing information along.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/powerlift_pro.html


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Got the following email this morning from Barry Wixey himself. The picture is the Wixey mounted on an Hitachi router, which is pretty much how it will go on the Triton. That's nice customer support.

Hi Tom;

Thanks for your email and thank you for your support of our products. We really appreciate the forum comments.

There should be no problem using our system with the Triton router in a router table. Please check out the " will it fit my?" Wixey.com - Remote Router Readout - Will It Fit? section of our web site where we show the device mounted to a lot of different lifts.

Our system is very simple and flexible, but keep in mind it is a kit. You will always need to do a little drilling and bend one of our brackets. We have never heard of a lift that this will not work with.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Barry Wixey
Barry Wixey Development


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## ckurdziel (Jun 24, 2014)

Awesome! Let me know if you apply this to your Triton router and how you did it. I have to wait until I get my Incra Router table (6-8 weeks).


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Welcome to the forum Christopher. I didn't want to post as I had nothing to offer your query .
But now that Tom's fixed you up


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## Lappa (Feb 5, 2015)

I think the Trend unit they where talking about us this one

Trend Digital Depth Gauge - Router Table Fences & Accessories - Routing - Power Tool Accessories - Accessories | Axminster Tools & Machinery

Not really what you are after.


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

Lappa said:


> I think the Trend unit they where talking about us this one
> 
> Trend Digital Depth Gauge - Router Table Fences & Accessories - Routing - Power Tool Accessories - Accessories | Axminster Tools & Machinery
> 
> Not really what you are after.


Yeah, I have one of those. Battery life is measured in minutes. Whenever I need to use it, the battery is dead ;-(

I have a high precision (128ths inch) scale but it's a PITA to use for offset bits. I really want a digital readout that tells me how high the cutting edge is off the table.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

ckurdziel said:


> Awesome! Let me know if you apply this to your Triton router and how you did it. I have to wait until I get my Incra Router table (6-8 weeks).


Don't know if I'll install one on my setup because of the way I work. The bits that really need precision setting I have jigs for, including the Sommerfeld star shaped QuickSet jig, which also comes in a version for Freud bits. Saving my cash for another goodie at the moment. Looks like a pretty foolproof installation to me.


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## LDBecker (Jun 16, 2015)

Wixey stuff is great - I have it on my DW 735 planer and on my Delta Unisaw - both the fence gauge and I use one of their angle gauges to measure the blade angle. For my router table, I set aside my old under-table Woodpecker's router lift and Incra fence and went with a Ready2Rout/Ready2Lift package from NextWave Automation - uses a couple of CNC motors and a zero plate, much like a CNC machine, but in a router table. You zero the bit height and fence and punch in on a touch screen the bit height and fence position. It's pricey (about $1k), but I am SURE I spent nearly that much on the Incra fence and lift. Now I know where the bit is in relation to the fence and how high it is EXACTLY... I never had the guts to try inlay before - now, measure the thickness and width of the inlay strip (digitally), zero the bit, punch location and depth of cut in to the touch screen, and off you go. I still make test cuts because it's a bit new to me, but it really does work. I did some box joints with the program and it did what I needed it to do - a little tight, though - you have to add some space for glue - it's that precise... 

Tom, I also use the Sommerfeld jig, and it's great. Did a test door with it and it was fine. Am in the midst of demo on my kitchen - got the face frames done, countertop next week... hard to find time for with a 60-70 hour a week job. 

To the point of the question - beware when you go digital - you can over-obsess on being precise and it isn't generally necessary. Things made out of wood are seldom precise - and even if they are, they change... 

Larry


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Larry, thanks. I recently got a DeWalt 735 and I just ordered the Wixey for it, based on your input.


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## LDBecker (Jun 16, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> Larry, thanks. I recently got a DeWalt 735 and I just ordered the Wixey for it, based on your input.


When you get the Wixey dialed in properly, it's really great to crank the DW 735 to, say, .75" - and it planes .75". Sounds simple, but I'm totally spoiled. Let me know how you like it when it comes. Not too hard to install. Installing mine came after putting a helical carbide head in it... that was not fun. Happy with the planer now. 

Larry


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

LDBecker said:


> When you get the Wixey dialed in properly, it's really great to crank the DW 735 to, say, .75" - and it planes .75". Sounds simple, but I'm totally spoiled. Let me know how you like it when it comes. Not too hard to install. Installing mine came after putting a helical carbide head in it... that was not fun. Happy with the planer now.
> 
> Larry


I'm looking forward to doing that. On installation, seems to me that clamping the vertical bar in place before drilling is a good idea. 

If I understand it right, you set zero, then dial in, say .75 inch, plane it, then measure the piece and reset the Wixey to that exact measure, which calibrates the Wixey to the blade height. Is that about right? Precision is nice to the extend you can get it with wood.

Getting the new one with the AAA battery. It arrives tuesday but I'm unlikely to get it running right away.


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## Lappa (Feb 5, 2015)

I found this YouTube clip very helpful


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@Lappa Thanks. Very helpful.


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

I ordered the Wixey router depth gauge for my Triton MF0-001 today, it shipped within an hour of my order. I'll report in on how it goes.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

CharlesWebster said:


> I ordered the Wixey router depth gauge for my Triton MF0-001 today, it shipped within an hour of my order. I'll report in on how it goes.


Cool. Did you get the one that has a cable so you can mount the readout on top? :smile:


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Didn't realize it has a double stick tape pad to hold it in place as a drill guide. And leveling it to the top with a straight edge and the bolt to fix the height before drilling looks like it will work out fairly easily. The instructions are a little spare. Going shooting tomorrow and the heat has struck, so I'll probably wait a couple of days to install the new Wixey, that arrived this evening.


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> Cool. Did you get the one that has a cable so you can mount the readout on top? :smile:


I believe it comes with a 5' cable, but I plan to mount the display under the top on the left side, opposite the switch.

I promise pictures.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

The 735 model is simpler, but I almost ordered the one with the cable. The cable is the right choice for sure for the Triton. I should take a couple of pictures of the DeWalt installation.


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

The Wixey Router Depth Gauge arrived today.

It takes a fair bit of ingenuity to mount it to a router like the Triton with a built-in lift.

And it takes a fair bit of ingenuity to make it fit on the plate and within the confines of the table and cutout.

The system mounts the track to the underside of the router mounting plate. The sensor is held to the router/lift with a rare-earth magnet on a bracket that you customize to suit your installation.

I hoped to use an existing screw on the router body so I didn't have to drill a hole in the router body, but I couldn't find a screw that would mount the bracket in a location that didn't interfere with something, or interfere with the router table cabinet itself.

The kit provides 3 magnet mounting brackets and I ended up bending up two of them before I found a shape and location that worked.

I used blue tape to temporarily hold the track to the router plate and the magnet bracket to the router body. The photo shows about the fifth or sixth location I tried, and the second iteration of bending the mounting bracket to fit the router body.

By using blue tape I could test the positioning and movement, then put the plate back in the table to check for interference with the table and/or cabinet.

I'll put up some more photos as the installation progresses. I need to buy a metric tap to thread the hole in the plate properly, instead of using a self-tapping screw to mount the track.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@CharlesWebster I see what you mean about where to place the small reference plate. Good idea using the tape for setting the location. I'm glad Wixey has gone to the AAA battery. There's a step where you check the planed stock thickness with a gauge, but my digital gauge is the button type battery, which is ALWAYS dead when I need to use it.


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

Well, the installation is complete and is a success. Of course I could not find a metric tap to match the M4-8 screws provided, so I just used the drill bit provided and self-tapped the screw into the router plate.

My original plan was to mount the readout under the table top, opposite the switch, but there isn't enough light there to read the display. So, I mounted it to the same bracket that holds the work light above the table. Adequate light and no bending over to read, a win-win solution.

I used the gauge to set the cutter height to 0.250" and made a couple of test cuts in straight grain VG Hemlock scrap. The cuts measured 0.250" with my dial caliper. I think it works.


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

*Thanks*

Thanks to the OP of this thread for making me aware that this exists, and to all who provided encouragement.

I hope the device lives up to expectations, and has a long life.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Nice work Charles . I bought the Wixey for my table saw but never installed it . I definitely wish I did as I need repeatability on a lot of cuts recently.
I think the router is idea is awesome too


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## LDBecker (Jun 16, 2015)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Nice work Charles . I bought the Wixey for my table saw but never installed it . I definitely wish I did as I need repeatability on a lot of cuts recently.
> I think the router is idea is awesome too


The Wixey wasn't too bad an install on my Delta Unisaw- it is VERY nice to have that level of precision on the table saw. I use a Forrest Woodworker II blade, but also their thin kerf rip blade often- you DON'T have to re-zero the Wixey when you change blade widths. When I use my dado blade I have to re-zero because there is a recess in the dado set that fits over the flange on the arbor. 
It was a couple hour install, but I really like having it. 
It would be nicer if you could input a number and have the fence move automatically... but this is ok. I have seen machines that do that, and they are beyond what I could ever imagine paying as a hobbiest. 
(edited 'cause I'm a dufus and can't think straight in the morning)


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## ckurdziel (Jun 24, 2014)

CharlesWebster said:


> The Wixey Router Depth Gauge arrived today.
> 
> It takes a fair bit of ingenuity to mount it to a router like the Triton with a built-in lift.
> 
> ...


So is the part that is circled the piece that you have to bend? After reading your installation it does not seem very difficult. Did this take you awhile to do? I might be able to just copy the exact locations that you used and finish.


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

ckurdziel said:


> So is the part that is circled the piece that you have to bend? After reading your installation it does not seem very difficult. Did this take you awhile to do? I might be able to just copy the exact locations that you used and finish.


Yes, that's the piece. I bent another one with too long of a short leg, and it ran into the track ;-(

I removed the plunge stop knob. I don't use the plunge stop when the router is in the table, and haven't removed the router from the table in the 1-1/2 years since I built the table.

I think the whole thing took a couple of hours all in. I stopped mid-way to buy a tap for the router plate. That was after I had tried a few locations. The tape makes trying different location/configurations easy.


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## ckurdziel (Jun 24, 2014)

CharlesWebster said:


> Yes, that's the piece. I bent another one with too long of a short leg, and it ran into the track ;-(
> 
> I removed the plunge stop knob. I don't use the plunge stop when the router is in the table, and haven't removed the router from the table in the 1-1/2 years since I built the table.
> 
> I think the whole thing took a couple of hours all in. I stopped mid-way to buy a tap for the router plate. That was after I had tried a few locations. The tape makes trying different location/configurations easy.


What size tap did you use for that?


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

ckurdziel said:


> What size tap did you use for that?


The factory provided screw is a 3 X 8 metric screw, he intends that you self-tap it into the router/lift body and plate. He provides a 3.7 mm drill bit for making the holes. I just wanted to tap the hole. But I could not find a 3X8 metric tap locally, lots of 3X7, but no 3X8, so I just self tapped them in.

My router plate is the Rockler ProPlate (or some such), and is 1/4" aluminum. The screw attaching the track to the plate was too long, and protruded, so I put a lock washer between the screw head and the bracket. Probably needed anyway.


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## Lappa (Feb 5, 2015)

I just fitted a Wixey to my Dewalt 735 thicknesser and since it is lways measuring against a non changing zero surface ie., the platnen, it's a once off zero calibration. You obviously have to zero yours every time you change bits. I presume you zero it when the bit is raised so it's level with the table ? Is that correct?


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## ckurdziel (Jun 24, 2014)

LDBecker said:


> The Wixey wasn't too bad an install on my Delta Unisaw- it is VERY nice to have that level of precision on the table saw. I use a Forrest Woodworker II blade, but also their thin kerf rip blade often- you DON'T have to re-zero the Wixey when you change blade widths. When I use my dado blade I have to re-zero because there is a recess in the dado set that fits over the flange on the arbor.
> It was a couple hour install, but I really like having it.
> It would be nicer if you could input a number and have the fence move automatically... but this is ok. I have seen machines that do that, and they are beyond what I could ever imagine paying as a hobbiest.
> (edited 'cause I'm a dufus and can't think straight in the morning)


I just put one of those on my saw. It was very easy and works great. I'm hoping the router one will be the same way. My new incra table is coming this week and I already have the digital readout ready to go.


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

Lappa said:


> I just fitted a Wixey to my Dewalt 735 thicknesser and since it is lways measuring against a non changing zero surface ie., the platnen, it's a once off zero calibration. You obviously have to zero yours every time you change bits. I presume you zero it when the bit is raised so it's level with the table ? Is that correct?


Yes, correct. I raise the bit to be dead level with the top surface and zero the display. I lay a steel straight edge across the table top and raise the bit up to it.


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## ckurdziel (Jun 24, 2014)

CharlesWebster said:


> Well, the installation is complete and is a success. Of course I could not find a metric tap to match the M4-8 screws provided, so I just used the drill bit provided and self-tapped the screw into the router plate.
> 
> My original plan was to mount the readout under the table top, opposite the switch, but there isn't enough light there to read the display. So, I mounted it to the same bracket that holds the work light above the table. Adequate light and no bending over to read, a win-win solution.
> 
> I used the gauge to set the cutter height to 0.250" and made a couple of test cuts in straight grain VG Hemlock scrap. The cuts measured 0.250" with my dial caliper. I think it works.


I see where you have your hole drilled for your above the table adjustment. I drilled mine at a 1/2" and it works, but I get a lot of movement in the handle and it is sometimes hard to get it onto the actual part of the router that adjusts the height. Do you have the same issue?


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

ckurdziel said:


> I see where you have your hole drilled for your above the table adjustment. I drilled mine at a 1/2" and it works, but I get a lot of movement in the handle and it is sometimes hard to get it onto the actual part of the router that adjusts the height. Do you have the same issue?


I don't recall what size hole I made, but yes there's some slop and yes it's sometimes difficult to seat the shaft on the pin. 

And, I had to make my shaft longer to accommodate changing bits without moving the fence. I took the crank arm off the shaft and jammed it into a hole drilled in a piece of wood. I then mounted the crank arm on the wood shaft extension.


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## ckurdziel (Jun 24, 2014)

CharlesWebster said:


> I don't recall what size hole I made, but yes there's some slop and yes it's sometimes difficult to seat the shaft on the pin.
> 
> And, I had to make my shaft longer to accommodate changing bits without moving the fence. I took the crank arm off the shaft and jammed it into a hole drilled in a piece of wood. I then mounted the crank arm on the wood shaft extension.


I'm confused why you would need it to be longer. Can you explain?


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

ckurdziel said:


> I'm confused why you would need it to be longer. Can you explain?


The way my router mounts to the plate, with the on/off switch on the right and the lift lock lever in front left, put the elevation screw on the left side of the bit, just about in line with the bit. That meant that when I wanted to raise the chuck to change the bit, I had to move the fence back away from the bit, and the crank handle so the handle could turn all the way around.

So I made the elevation crank shaft longer so the crank handle is above the fence, even when the chuck is fully retracted below the table.

My shop-made fence is 3-1/2" high and at the time, I was making a cut that required making a pass with one bit, then without changing the position of the fence, changing the bit and making another pass. The stock lift crank was too short to allow me to raise the bit without interfering with the fence.

If it's still not clear, I'll go take some pictures. I probably should take pix for the "Show us your router table" thread anyway.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

CharlesWebster said:


> The way my router mounts to the plate, with the on/off switch on the right and the lift lock lever in front left, put the elevation screw on the left side of the bit, just about in line with the bit. That meant that when I wanted to raise the chuck to change the bit, I had to move the fence back away from the bit, and the crank handle so the handle could turn all the way around.
> 
> So I made the elevation crank shaft longer so the crank handle is above the fence, even when the chuck is fully retracted below the table.
> 
> ...


Charles , the router thread gallery is one of my favourite threads . I went threw every page in order to get ideas on how to proceed with mine . There's so many skilled members here


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## Lappa (Feb 5, 2015)

When I first fitted my Triton to the bench, I used the crank handle to raise and lower and had the same problem with the fence being in the way. Due to the fact that I always lock the router in position, I open the front of the cabinet anyways so I now find myself using the quick raise/lower (pressing the handle button) then using the hand micro adjustment to acurately position the bit. I haven't used the crank handle in over a year.
I have to lock the router, as it tends to wind its way down if not locked. I have a YouTube video of it actually doing this and have learnt that it's a common problem with Triton.


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## ckurdziel (Jun 24, 2014)

I got my digital readout on.


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## ckurdziel (Jun 24, 2014)

Lappa said:


> When I first fitted my Triton to the bench, I used the crank handle to raise and lower and had the same problem with the fence being in the way. Due to the fact that I always lock the router in position, I open the front of the cabinet anyways so I now find myself using the quick raise/lower (pressing the handle button) then using the hand micro adjustment to acurately position the bit. I haven't used the crank handle in over a year.
> I have to lock the router, as it tends to wind its way down if not locked. I have a YouTube video of it actually doing this and have learnt that it's a common problem with Triton.


Is it a pain to do all of that by hand? Was it really worth saving the money and not getting the lift and another router. I figured I saved about $400 by getting the Triton router and not getting another router and a lift. My router is going to be in one of the Incra CleanSweep DC.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

You will like the Triton just fine. Watch Marc Summerfeld videos to see how they really work.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Lappa said:


> When I first fitted my Triton to the bench, I used the crank handle to raise and lower and had the same problem with the fence being in the way. Due to the fact that I always lock the router in position, I open the front of the cabinet anyways so I now find myself using the quick raise/lower (pressing the handle button) then using the hand micro adjustment to acurately position the bit. I haven't used the crank handle in over a year.
> I have to lock the router, as it tends to wind its way down if not locked. I have a YouTube video of it actually doing this and have learnt that it's a common problem with Triton.


I had a problem with creep with the Rockler lift, and it didn't have a locking lever.


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## Terry Q (Mar 2, 2017)

DesertRatTom said:


> I had a problem with creep with the Rockler lift, and it didn't have a locking lever.




There is an adjustment for the "creep" on the Rockler lift. When I first got my Rockler lift it had creep, but once adjusted it hasn't happened since.

There is an adjustment on the bottom of the lift.


In woodworking there is always more then one way to accomplish something.


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## Lappa (Feb 5, 2015)

ckurdziel said:


> Is it a pain to do all of that by hand? Was it really worth saving the money and not getting the lift and another router. I figured I saved about $400 by getting the Triton router and not getting another router and a lift. My router is going to be in one of the Incra CleanSweep DC.


It takes very little time in reality once you get into the routine. Probably takes a fraction longer than picking up a winder handle for the router lift, raising the router then putting down the handle. Besides, I'd rather spend the extra $$$$ on other equipmemt:grin:


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## ckurdziel (Jun 24, 2014)

I have two issues. First the digital readout isn't working properly. It will move and change the display, but if I get it at .240 and want to get to exactly .250 I have a hard time. I will turn the winder to raise the bit up and nothing will change on the display and then all of a sudden it will jump.

Also, the notched button on my Triton router popped off. The part you squeeze in and turn to raise and lower if I want to quick raise and lower the router.

I really don't know how to fix either of these, because the router is basically stuck in the table because I wired it into the table and I will have to cut the power cord to fix it.


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## ckurdziel (Jun 24, 2014)

I fixed the readout. I just bumped it and it magically started working. Anyways, here is a picture of what I am talking about on the router.


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