# Tile Question



## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

My wife decided we need to remodel the main bathroom. There is a full size standard tub in good shape and the walls are ceramic tile from the tub to the ceiling. The ceramic tiles are off white 4" squares. 

About 40" up is one row of decorative tile. All the tiles are in good shape, very solid. She wants to remove the on row of decorative tile and one row of the off white and replace them with new decorative tiles.

So what's the best way to remove a row of tile without damaging the adjacent rows of tile? Thanks!


----------



## Salty Dawg (Jan 24, 2014)

First thing is to remove the grout around the tiles that will be removed then chisel the ones you want removed out, make sure to protect the tub before you start.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

You didn't say how old the bathroom walls are, Berry. If it's tile on gyproc, rip it out and start from scratch (Same goes for the less than perfect greenboard ...wp gyproc...it isn't).
You could, as Don suggested, take out the decorative row, and assess the state of the substrate. Any sign of water staining, get rid of it.
As a contractor, my mantra was 'you can pay me now or you can pay me more later'.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

What Don said. One of those oscillating multi tools with a grout blade on it is the ideal tool. It isn't going to hurt that much if you dig into the drywall a bit. The multi tools also have a scraper blade available for them and that might be the thing to remove the tiles with. I have one from Canadian Tire for about $40 and my brother says it looks similar to one from HF for about the same price. It's not a Fein but it's about $360 cheaper.


----------



## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

As I found out when doing one of our bathrooms last spring, tile will leak somewhere regardless of how well you THINK it's sealed. Instead of only having to pull just enough to install the new tub, I ended up with a new tub and fiberglass surround plud removing another hundred or so 4" tiles, I broke up the old tub, pulled all of the tile, incorrect 'rock, insulation, repaired a few rotted studs, a chunk of underlayment then dried everything out for 2-3 weeks.

This is the "Oh @#$%" point:


*
...and where it gets really 'fun'*


*
Yep, that's one of the rotten studs and plate:
*


*Mold and rot - repaired then sealed with oil base paint:*



What I'm trying to say - pulling a few bathroom tiles usually begets a lot more work. Can you easily pull tiles off? Once past the first row, in which case you have decided that they will all break, you find that most of the rest will come off reasonably easy as you can then get under the mastic or mortar plus have one of the 4 sides free of grout to gently pry free. Like a boy scout - be prepared for the worst, then you can be happy if it isn't.


----------



## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

My wife asked the same of me (we are reselling) and I finally got to use my Fein Multi-master to the full test and it is the easiest way I know of to remove grout and floor tags that refuse to budge. It probably does not make a difference what you use as the end result is the same. Be prepared to replace grout in areas that you never touch since old vs new will have discoloration. Basically there is little difference in the solutions; only how you get there.

I do not envy you but you do have my empathy on this task - Baker


----------



## richjh (Jan 14, 2013)

Berry, If there is a Harbor Freight near you, they usually have a multi-tool on sale for around $20 or less. Check online for their latest coupons. I have one and it works great. I would not by HF tools for daily use but have found they work just fine for occasional use. I used the specialty grout blade to cut through kitchen counter tiles with no problem and have found many other uses for this tool.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Dave W;
Amen! Great illustration of our point; thanks.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Dan and Dave I would agree with you if you were going to do something like replace the tub or if some of the lower tiles might be starting to loosen from the wall or if any leakage started to manifest in any kind of way. But what Berry is talking about is a very minor cosmetic change with the tiles that are least likely to be in a problem area. He won't have enough invested in that to make him regret not doing the full redo if a problem manifests down the road a ways.


----------



## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Dan and Dave I would agree with you if you were going to do something like replace the tub or if some of the lower tiles might be starting to loosen from the wall or if any leakage started to manifest in any kind of way. But what Berry is talking about is a very minor cosmetic change with the tiles that are least likely to be in a problem area. He won't have enough invested in that to make him regret not doing the full redo if a problem manifests down the road a ways.


Mine started simple as well. I just wanted to replace the tub. When I opened the wall, everything went down hill from there. Instead of a $300 plastic/'glass or whatever wonder material is sold as replacement for a 45 year old cast iron piece to a $1000 tub with surround along with whatever else that was needed to be done. My post above is mostly as a 'warning' on how a simple wet area project can easily escalate.


----------



## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

Thanks to all for your views and detailed info. I have one of those 'multi-tools' and I think I'll try removing just the two rows and "play it by ear" from there. 

I was especially grateful for the tip to protect the tub seeing as how we are keeping that. 

I think I better get down to the shop and put another coat of poly on the new vanity.


----------



## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

*Tile continued*

Okay I removed all the tile and this is the surface after removing the tile. The gap between the 4" tiles is just over 2". Can I apply mastic and glue the new tile in place or is there more surface prep needed and what would you recommend. I suppose I could cut the blue board out and replace that section but geeze that sounds like a lot of work. 

Thanks for checking this out.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Ok; if you want to do it this way, you need to remove the old crud before you start putting on new cement. I'd suggest at least three coats of the liquid acrylic that you normally add to thinset mortar. Just paint it on and let it dry. That'll waterproof the drywall surface (which you disturbed by removing the tile). Then you're on your own...I refuse to have anything to do with mastic in tub surrounds. As far as I'm concerned it shouldn't be allowed in bathrooms, or on kitchen counter-tops.
but, if you're _going_ to use mastic, pick your product _very _carefully. All mastics are not created equal! Good luck, Berry, so far it's looking pretty good...


----------



## Salty Dawg (Jan 24, 2014)

Personally if it was me & saw what your pic showed, I would be ripping it all out & doing it over with cement board just like Dan stated earlier.


----------

