# Jointer advice



## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

I'm close to needing a planer and a jointer. These are some models I am looking at:

https://www.amazon.com/Steelex-ST1010-Jointer-Mobile-Base/dp/B01HF1ETM6?SubscriptionId=AKIAIKBZ7IH7LXTW3ARA&&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01HF1ETM6&tag=wwwbookcompar-20&ascsubtag=595ad63deba0c901a0aa6837

https://www.amazon.com/Steelex-ST10...d=1499123712&sr=8-14&keywords=steelex+jointer

http://www.cpooutlets.com/jet-70740...aner-jointer-combo/jetn707400,default,pd.html
https://www.lowes.com/pd/DELTA-12-Amp-Bench-Jointer/50159089

http://www.ebay.com/itm/G0813-Grizzly-6-Jointer-with-Knock-Down-Stand-/292129688540?epid=1081717225&hash=item4404494bdc:g:AZUAAOSwIQdZJy4p


Any thoughts on these?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Avoid the benchtop units. You won't be happy for what you need them for. I would probably go with the Grizz. Get the longest bed you can.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I'm interested in seeing the recommendations. I wish I knew more about them , but I'm liking the Grizzly the best.
I'd like to keep my stuff General , but am not sure what to do when the time comes .


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I have the PC Benchtop and it does what I want, I used to have a floor mount,and it was good too. Have to watch moving them around they are top heavy. It all depends on what you are going to use them for. I don't have room for a floor mount anymore and they do take up substantial room.
Herb


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Thanks guys, I really do like that Grizzley. I also like the 8" width of the Jet! Decisions, decisions, decisions.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Of the ones shown, the Grizz. I bought a Powermatic, another $400 I think. Long table, which is a most important feature. Total on the Griz is just shy of 4 ft, or 2 ft per side.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Quenten,

First off, what size work do you normally do? That could narrow down the size. My first jointer I got used on Craigslist, a 4 inch King Seely. I got rid of it on Craigslist after I was positive I needed something bigger. My current 6 inch jointer came from Craigslist, as the owner was moving up to something bigger..

I don't know about your neck of the woods, but jointers show up frequently on the classifieds. You might find a gem.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

I don't do a lot of jointing as I'm just getting into this hobby. My next project is going to be building 3 cedar chests out of lumber I have sawn myself (one for the wife & each daughter). The boards range I have on hand range from 2 inches wide to 10 inches wide. They also range in thickness from 1/4 inch to 1 inch. I plan on making the sides out of 3/4 inch material and the drawers out of 1/4 inch (or what ever is best). I will be gluing them together. I want to make the lid hinged on the back & front. I will have a handle on the front such that when you lift it and fold it back, the 2 sides will come together and lean against what is behind it. It will have a top lift out tray. Below that I will have a face fram with 2 or 3 drawers that slide out. This design will eliminate having to dig through the chest to find something. Just lift the lid to have access to everything. It will look like a simple box when it is closed.

My next build will be a chest of drawers. Maybe 5 ft tall & 2 ft wide and haven't decided on the debth. I just dabble with this stuff but I'm such a meticulous guy I want to have tools that work well. Hope this helps. And thanks to all you guys for advice.


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

Tonto1 said:


> Thanks guys, I really do like that Grizzley. I also like the 8" width of the Jet! Decisions, decisions, decisions.


I bought the 10" version of the Jet and was extremely disappointed with it, cheaply made, and a very weak motor. I bought it used and only used it once before it went to the dump. If I were to buy a jointer today, I would find one with a spiral head. I hate dealing with the knives, it has always been an issue with me. Grizzly makes a nice jointer for its price point, and I have looked at a number of them. (I live 21 miles away from the Bellingham WA showroom), I don't think you would be disappointed.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Bob Adams said:


> I bought the 10" version of the Jet and was extremely disappointed with it, cheaply made, and a very weak motor. I bought it used and only used it once before it went to the dump. If I were to buy a jointer today, I would find one with a spiral head. I hate dealing with the knives, it has always been an issue with me. Grizzly makes a nice jointer for its price point, and I have looked at a number of them. (I live 21 miles away from the Bellingham WA showroom), I don't think you would be disappointed.


This is my issue Bob, as I want the helical heads . Those heads are more than most jointers


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

I have the JET 12" benchtop. It works well for me as I have limited space. I bolted it onto the top of my tool chest base unit so its on wheels and I can move it to one side. All the heavy tools stop it from being top heavy.
I can plane 8 ft boards all by myself. longer boards would need a helper (or table supports).
i dont have any problems with the knives. They are easy to remove and replace and I have found a shop that sharpens them and I dont even have to to go there, they travel by courier.

The really BIG issue with these is the NOISE!!! If you live close to other people you will need to time your usage when they are not in.


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> This is my issue Bob, as I want the helical heads . Those heads are more than most jointers


It is a tough decision. I bought my Dewalt planer in 2010, and I have no idea how much money I spent on knives but I am guessing it is well over twice what my Shelix head cost last December. After using the planer I am a convert. With my Rikon jointer I will spend hours, if not days, setting the knives. My only problem now, is how I can sneak a new jointer into the shop. Saying "Oh no honey I have always had that" will be a tough sell!>


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

I have been looking at a few benchtop jointers and planers so I can use scrap wood. If I could, I would definitely go with 12" but no way to do that in my flat. LOL

I read that the Dewalts really go through the blades fast, as you were saying, Bob.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Blade wear depends entirely on how much you put through the machine, and of course how hard the wood is.

You could plane softwoods all day, but try a few board feet of bubinga and those blades will start to dull quickly.
And if youre using scrap wood, just one staple or nail will destroy them.

I only use mine for hobby usage, I dont make any furniture or large runs of planking. For me, this machine works very well.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

If you are willing and proficient at glue-ups, a 6" will do you just fine for the occasional panel work...
purchase your wood accordingly when possible. 

the longer the beds, the better off you'll be

be leary of spiral head cutters, they are NOT all created equal..some are just flat out bogus

I've ran 1,000's of feet of primarily sugar maple, walnut and cherry thru a Dewalt 735 and havn't changed cutters yet

wear and tear depends on several factors, type of wood, feed rate, depth of cut, amount of use, quality of equipment to start with..
ya get what you pay for isn't always true, but in my experience, its certainly a major consideration!!!!!!
routinely give your equipment a good going over!! 

when using rough cut lumber, wire brush off as much of the dirt as possible (not always necessary, but when it is, its well worth the time it takes)
avoid twisted and cupped stock until you become very familiar with your equipment's limitations 

there is no avoiding the NOISE...and there is no getting around it to my knowledge...so be forewarned and take the neighbors into account if need be.
LISTEN to your equipment,,,it'll tell ya everything you need to know about whats going on

most of the rough cut I work with is at least 8' long, so I need at a minimum 17' worth of work area 
take into account the amount of floor space the equipment is going to take up and will require to be used safely and properly

Dust collection isn't an issue, chunk collection is! I've found that at a minimum, 4" dust collection lines are best. 

For the money, Dewalts 735 is generally thought to be the best value out there is a bench top planer...I'd buy another in a heart beat..(except maybe, for a 15" floor model"

AS for a joiner..I have a Craftsman Professional 6". Not a bad joiner, not a great one either...it gets the job done. For me a quality 8" would be ideal...but sometimes ya just gotta work with whatcha got!!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I have a well made Taiwanese model that is 8" x 72". I plane a lot of rough lumber and the wide and long bed jointer is a must for that. I would have had issues with a 6" width a few times but I can't remember the 8" width not being enough. Someone posted a formula for how much the length of the bed limits the length you can put over it but I can't remember what that was. I would say that it was 35- 50% longer than the bed length as an educated guess and based on experience.

If you are doing a lot of lumber and especially if it's rough lumber then you need a big floor model planer. Mine is a 2 hp King Canada which is also sold as Delta, Jet, and a few other brands. It's 16" wide and will take 1/8" bites all day long. Some planers have rollers on them to make it easier to pass a board back for a second pass. But you need a second person helping you to take advantage of those. I do mine in batches where I'll run a half dozen or more boards at a time so that I'm not constantly winding the planer up and down and so that my finished size is the same for each board. So for that I set up sawhorses on one side of the planer to stack the boards on. Needless to say you need a lot of room for that.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Be safe.
See my jointer inspired signature.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@DerSchuhmacher When using found wood, you have to have a good metal detector to check out every piece before you work it. You also have to use a wire brush to find and remove small stones that often get ground into the wood, particularly with pallets. Those little bits will wreck the blade of both jointer and planer, leaving a small ridge on the workpiece.

One of the important uses of a jointer is flattening pieces to glue up for a larger panel. I know bigger might be better, in my opinion, glueups of narrower pieces are less likely to warp, so I haven't needed more than a 6 inch jointer. 

I can see needing something wider if you're working with rough lumber. Lots of good input here.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

A guy near me has a used Grizzly G0656W - 8" x 72" Jointer with Mobile Base. Looks new, asking $765.00

8" x 72" Jointer with Mobile Base | Grizzly Industrial

That looks like a good machine. I have always heard used tools go for about 50%. What would you guys think would be a good offer?


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## Red Stick (Sep 7, 2011)

*Grizzly fan here*

I have had the Grizzly G0452Z ... 6" with spiral cutterhead, for about 3 yrs. now and am very happy with it. There have been many times that I wish that it was 8" and a little longer bed, but haven't won the lottery yet!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Tonto1 said:


> A guy near me has a used Grizzly G0656W - 8" x 72" Jointer with Mobile Base. Looks new, asking $765.00
> 
> 8" x 72" Jointer with Mobile Base | Grizzly Industrial
> 
> That looks like a good machine. I have always heard used tools go for about 50%. What would you guys think would be a good offer?


Unless there is something really seriously wrong with it I would snap that one up. Mine was $1200 about 20 years ago.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Well, I'm conflicted, Grizzly has them on their website for $875 + $150 shipping. So I text the guy back and offer him $400 and he says "no thanks." He had just placed it on CL & wanted to wait for a better offer. That's when I went back to the website & saw the shipping charge...ouch! So I text him back acknowledging that & increase the offer to $500. He just texted me back, dropping the price to $675. I think I'll counter with $575. I don't want to go that high for more than 1 reason...but I don't think I'll get a jointer like this any cheaper. And it does look brand new. Wish me luck.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Well, he countered with $600. Really the $575 is more than I should be spending right now. So I left my offer at $575. If I get it I'll be happy. That is if it really is a good as it looks in the picture. I'll let you guys know!


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

He accepted the $575 offer, so I'm going to pick it up this weekend! I'm so excited!


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Cool beans. But I wouldn't have let $25 get in the way of getting it done someway.

Good Job!!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Tonto1 said:


> He accepted the $575 offer, so I'm going to pick it up this weekend! I'm so excited!


Thats a great deal if its in good shape . Heck , it's going to cost me that much in tax for the one I want from GI in an 8"


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Thanks guys, the pictures of it in his shop show it to be like brand new. Great paint, no saw dust on it, beds pristine. I should have gone to get it today but it's a 2 hr drive. Saturday will have to do. Hope he doesn't sell it to somebody else if he gets a better offer!


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Well I do not know what is happening. Last night he asked when I could pick it up and I asked him if this weekend was ok. Haven't heard another word from him!

Never purchased anything on CL. Can a seller back out after an agreement has been made? You would think he would have the decency to at least update me. I guess I will have to keep looking. That would have been a nice jointer to have!


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Worried for nothing, decided to text him one more time last night & he texted back that Saturday was ok & to come pick it up!

Anybody ever tried to move one of these things? I have a trailer. I'm thinking about putting the loading ramp for my 4-wheeler on it with a piece of plywood on top of that and roll it up the ramp. I assume the wings can be removed, or is it a pain to get them back on correctly. I have tons of tie down straps which I will use liberally!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Don't take the tables off. Put it on length ways and tie from down to all four corners of the trailer. Make sure it won't move. Next alternative I would say is to level the tables, take the fence off, and load it on upside down as long as the motor is well supported (or take the motor off too).


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Thanks Chuck!


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## dirt_dobber (Jun 9, 2017)

strap the heck out of that - then after driving a mile or so - get out and tighten everything down a couple of more clicks.
Those are so top heavy. Good luck and post some pics when you get her home.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

I drove over to Panama City & the guy was waiting for me!


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Those are cedar shavings from a board I practiced on.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Looks like it's new , great score


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

I have never used a jointer before, so there will be a learning curve, like keeping the board up against the fence! I also set it to cut 1/8" deep which I think is a lot. Never struggled. I'm liking the 3 HP motor! It was harder to slide the boards than I expected. I hope waxing will help. I need to download the manual and read it. That should help me know what to expect and how to check all the adjustment. Overall I am very pleased. The only problem I had transporting it was the sharp edges of the table kept cutting the straps. Had to pull over twice to tie them back together & re-crank them down!

The wings do have a couple of rusted areas where someone recently set a glass down & caused it to rust. Looks fresh so I oilded it to try to arrest it till I can work on it. Going to have to figure out the best way to fix that. Can I use a belt sander with very fine paper? Or is this going to be hand work? I'll take a picture of it tomorrow and post it.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I used a rag , 400 grit emery cloth ,WD40 and a lot of elbow grease to remove rust on my table saw . Pretty minor problem .


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

What Charles said! 
You and the seller shouldn't have any trouble getting it onto the trailer, but I'd take a handtruck with you, and maybe a piano dolly as well. The handtruck won't really help if there's stairs as the only way to carry it is laterally across the handtruck's lifting plate. 
(I move my 6" Jet around by myself using my handtruck.)


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Oops! Apparently I didn't notice the last page before I commented; just ignore me...

Nice score, Quenten!!! Why'd did the seller get rid of it?
Buy a tube of Autosol, you'll love it!
#1000 - Autosol Metal Polish - 75ml Tube


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

These 2 circles were the only visible rusted areas. When I just took the pics, you can see where out finger and hand prints are coming through. They are getting worse! I guess the oil is not helping much. I think I'll order the Autosol, thanks for the advice Dan.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

That machine looks to be in great shape. Nice score. One thing I have to do with mine is run dust collection to it to keep it from plugging up the chute. It doesn't take long forme to plug mine without using the DC and it is a bit of a pain to unplug it when it happens. The chips pack in pretty tight so it takes a little effort to get them out. Never use a belt sander to get rust off. It's hand work only. A power tool will take too much off to fast and too unevenly. I don't know if you will ever get rid of that ring from the glass. I have one on my TS from a kid that was in my shop with my son and he sat a cold beer down on it. Although there is no loose scale, the ring is clearly visible since 15 years ago. As long as it isn't rough to the touch it shouldn't affect the operation of the jointer. Lee Valley used to sell a product called Waxilit for making the tables more slick. I think it's still available but maybe not from LV. Whatever you use has to be silicone free.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

1/8th is too large a cut. 1/16th is more manageable. It's not about taking off a lot of wood, its about taking off as little as necessary. You are the one paying for that sawdust. Looks like a nice machine.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Quenten; let us know how you like the Autosol...before/after picture maybe? These annoying oxidation blemishes on cast iron are a constant p.i.t.a. for pretty much all of us.
My own experience with the Autosol is that I get a long period of protection after I do the whole surface with it. The application and polishing rags usually come up black after a polishing session...this would suggest that the oxide build up is there even it's not visible yet.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Do you just order in online from the link you posted, or is there a better source?

And yes, I think this was a great score!

And yes, 1/8th is a lot, I only did it to see how it loaded the motor. It acted like it was no big deal. The board was a Cedar 1' X 8" that I had cut about 4 months ago. Been drying in my carport.


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

After learning about jointers and planers, I think they should be considered the first tools to have in your shop, rather than a band saw. This way you can use all kinds of wood that needs some TLC.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

I can see that. I'll post a pic of the Cedar I plain'd yesterday. It is absolutely gorgeous.

I think I'll try some Navel Jelly on the rust. That should get it all. That is what I've always used on rust in the past & it works great. I'll have to try in on a small spot to make sure it doesn't discolor the steel.

I will start a build thread on the Cedar Chests when I get started. Now that I can get a straight edge, I will be able to start the glue-ups.
You guys will have to help me out. My thoughts are to cut the boards to just a bit over length, glue and clamp them (laid on parchment/wax paper so they don't stick to my table. Then run them through the jointer again to cut them down to size and create a flat end. I'm just guessing...anybody have a link to proper gluing? Do I glue the panels (sides/back/front/bottom) to each other just like the individual boards (to create the box). Remember I am planning to face frame the front for drawers. All advice is welcome.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Quenten; it's available almost everywhere. Try the auto parts guys, or a big hardware chain, or maybe Amazon?
Up here in Canada...Amazon.ca has it but I don't like the price!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/offer-list...e&ie=UTF8&qid=1499715041&sr=1-1&condition=new
30% price difference between two suppliers?! Ouch.

Make sure you get the correct one; they make a number of different formulations. Keep in mind that it doesn't just remove the oxidation (rust) but it also polishes and leaves a very effective protective barrier.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

You know what also works? That cleaner/polish that you use on ceramic cook-tops, applied with the little scrubby pads you use to apply the ceramic cleaner.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

The harder the wood, the shallower the cuts! The deeper you go, the more you tend to exaggerate the potential for tearout. Very shallow passes on figured woods in particular. Pay attention to grain direction especially on boards with switchback (grain that runs in both directions on the same board)

wood whisperer isn't everyone's cup of tea, but this is a good video on using a joiner


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"...wood whisperer isn't everyone's cup of tea,..."
-Bill

Given a choice of him or George Clooney................................


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

DaninVan said:


> "...wood whisperer isn't everyone's cup of tea,..."
> -Bill
> 
> Given a choice of him or George Clooney................................



I'll take Spaggy any ole day...I'd like to see him and David Marks collaborate on something.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

My HF jointer seems to attract rain from a clear blue sky. Here are the before and after photos from a treatment with Trend Tool and Bit cleaner. I sprayed it on, let it sit a couple minutes and then scoured it with ScotchBrite pads. Works for me; a bottle runs about $12 and is available from multiple sources online and in Woodcraft stores.


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## old coasty (Aug 15, 2014)

Great to see you back Mike. Missed your evaluations and information.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

What Bob said, Mike!


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Thanks Mike, that looks great!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

old coasty said:


> Great to see you back Mike. Missed your evaluations and information.


Same here , as I was getting a little worried after not seeing Mike posting for a while , 
and assumed the worst, that I scared him away


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

That's still on the table, Rick...


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