# Router Table Dust Bucket DC system



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

While surfing for new and innovative ideas I stumbled across this below the table DC collector box and thought I'd share. I know nothing about it beyond what's shown on the page but it is a "pre-fab" if someone didn't want to make their own. I'd be a little concerned avout vibration-noise but my concerns may well be unfounded.

I thought I'd share!

Dust Bucket Dust Collection for Router Tables - Rockler Woodworking Tools


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Jim

thats a unique concept. one of the concerns i would have is knowing how hot metal gets, it looks like it could be a miniature oven??


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Hmm.. I dunno, Buddy... I'd like to think that with a 4" DC connected up to it that enough room air would flow through it to keep it cool but...??? I did kind of like the built-in Tee to draw some of the air from the router fence, for those who like that.


----------



## Thrifty Tool Guy (Aug 23, 2007)

I built a small router table which was powered by a Dewalt trimmer. The table sat on top of a closed cabinet which had vacuum port for my Shop Vac. The DC works fine, but lifting the table top for each height adjustment is a lot more hassle than my simpler router tables which have exposed routers. It's just a matter of preference.

TTG


----------



## dobrientruckers (Oct 31, 2009)

Thought this might have been for a CNC router ......guess I'll keep looking.


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Jim,

I had seen this once before and I'm still not sure what to make of it


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

80 bucks for a box and a couple fittings? I don't think so.
It's no different from the 4" connection I have on my RT already.


----------



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

This kind of stuff is for the new guy who doesn't trust himself with building anything yet and feels like he has to have all the latest bells and whistles.


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

curiousgeorge said:


> This kind of stuff is for the new guy who doesn't trust himself with building anything yet and feels like he has to have all the latest bells and whistles.




hi ,

i agree with george. this kind of stuff is for new guys that cant adjust a router without an expensive router lift. lol

also Jim, the only air inlet seems to be a small baffle that will starve the unit of air and result in increasing the temperature tremendously. ive learned from lots of people on this forum. ive asked lots of questions. BobJ , Bob, Harry, and lots of others has helped me a lot. if you need help on a router or router table question, id ask them rather than google an answer. lots of the advertisements from google are like fishing lures. they are to catch fishermen , not fish. hahahahahahahaha

i still believe in an open chamber where the router is and dust collection on the top, you do get a little dust, but you have access to the router.

this is a lesson i learned from BobJ.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Thrifty Tool Guy said:


> I built a small router table which was powered by a Dewalt trimmer. The table sat on top of a closed cabinet which had vacuum port for my Shop Vac. The DC works fine, but lifting the table top for each height adjustment is a lot more hassle than my simpler router tables which have exposed routers. It's just a matter of preference.
> 
> TTG


An enclosed router system is easiest with a router lift or if you lift the router & plate out of the table for adjustment (lifting from the top). It reduces the dust you breathe, eases your cleanup and mutes the roar of the router. The cleanest match is for router tables with a dedicated router motor, above the table height adjustment and bit changes. 

For those who require router body access for height adjustment and bit changes, many still use the DC by mounting a cabinet-type door on the front for access to the router, choosing the noise reduction and improved breathing quality over the minor inconvenience of opening the door. Opening a well-designed and mounted door isn't a major inconvenience.

In either case, you should have a readily available switch to turn off the DC or have it wired to turn on/off with your router.

Just my $0.02...


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Bob said:


> Hi Jim,
> 
> I had seen this once before and I'm still not sure what to make of it


I'm not sure either, Bob.. All it would take is a few peices of wood.. which would muffle noise much better than metal.. but I posted it as a topic for conversation. At least manufacturers are seeing what routologists really use.. Maybe someone will start manufacturing skiis?


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> An enclosed router system is easiest with a router lift or if you lift the router & plate out of the table for adjustment (lifting from the top). It reduces the dust you breathe, eases your cleanup and mutes the roar of the router. The cleanest match is for router tables with a dedicated router motor, above the table height adjustment and bit changes.
> 
> For those who require router body access for height adjustment and bit changes, many still use the DC by mounting a cabinet-type door on the front for access to the router, choosing the noise reduction and improved breathing quality over the minor inconvenience of opening the door. Opening a well-designed and mounted door isn't a major inconvenience.
> 
> ...


you are so right about the enclosed system needing a lift. most decent routers now come with a lift builtin.

there are many very smart and experienced woodworkers that prefer the open system. many woodworkers that are experts dont want a cabinet with a door or dust port underneath.

all router users should wear hearing protection, as the breathing holes in the cabinet wont protect your ears from the noise. putting it in a cabinet wont protect your ears. 

the most important switch to have accessible is the router power switch, then the dust collector. probably most of us use a remote for the dc.

just my .02 cents


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Levon, your belief is a very valid one but not the only one, buddy...

When complete, my router table cabinet will have my main router body enclosed (at least one of the bodies, the one with a bitjack is still under consideration). Once it is installed and my DC connected, I will add fresh air ports to the cabinet, sized for the capacity of my DC and located to optimizedust collection. It will be a balance between providing enough cooling air through the ports while maintaining enough suction to draw in as many of the cut chips as possible. There's nothing wrong with your aproach, just as there's nothing wrong with mine. 

Who knows.. as we evolve through out future router tables we may each find we prefer the opposite approach.. or not!! <g>

Just my $0.01 




levon said:


> hi ,
> 
> i agree with george. this kind of stuff is for new guys that cant adjust a router without an expensive router lift. lol
> 
> ...


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

I just don't get it,, why would anyone want to wrap a tin can around the router...I just don't get it  if you are using a low end router table you don't want all the neat things about what a cabinet can do, it's 50/50 thing for most I think  inclose the router or let it work in the open like it was meant to work..  the beast will make a mess I like many want to suck all I can but it's not to be  the 1st. time you put in slot in some stock most of it will end up on the floor and at the edge of the table top...then drop to the floor 

The tin can looks like a great way to smoke some meat..but for the router I will pass on that one..but I do want the router to run a long time..heat is heat and power tools make alot of it..

"It's fine to disagree with other members as long as you respect their opinions." 
MIKE
Senior Moderator

=======


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

BigJimAK said:


> I'm not sure either, Bob.. All it would take is a few peices of wood.. which would muffle noise much better than metal.. but I posted it as a topic for conversation. At least manufacturers are seeing what routologists really use.. Maybe someone will start manufacturing skiis?





Hi Jim,

I am sure they are watching and it won't be long before someone sees a chance to make a $ or 2.


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

A similiar setup used to be offered by Kreg/Woodpecker for the Kreg line of table/leg packages. A few months back they offered a special, then they disappeared off of the map. Most likely due to lack of interest...


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

Now I see why you are looking at one after seeing your router table and the mess on the floor  you may want to take a look at the bag for the Vac. systems ,I'm sure you can make a ring to hold it in place..I'm sure with just a little bit of work you could add a vac.port to one, with some plastic and pop rivet or two..

You may say it will not hold it's shape,,I have a plastic insert for the plastic trash bags (33 gal.type) that just pop's in and holds the plastic trash bag open that would do the job..

Just a note----I have a cloth bag that came with my sears table saw that works the same way.it just slips under the table saw base just under the saw motor asm. ..

One more note --I don't use the cloth bag I use a plastic flower pot that I rework just a little bit to do the same job,see the last picture 

=


----------



## jmg1017 (Apr 9, 2009)

I've read this entire thread and I respectfully disagree with some of the comments. With what we know nowadays about airborne particles and how they effect our lungs and health, it only makes sense to protect ourselves while enjoying this wonderful hobby of ours. 
When I look at old pictures of home shops and production shops and see the floors and walls covered with sawdust I cringe. 
Would anyone seriously plan or build a home wood shop today without considering first and foremost a dust collection system?? I hope not. Every tool in my shop is in some way integrated into my DC system. The older tools that cannot be are replaced with ones that can.
To simply state that "the beast will make a mess" is no longer acceptable.

Back to the original point; I don't condone spending ~$80 for a simple sheet metal box when a better, quieter one could be fabricated from inexpensive 1/2" mdf. However, to generalize that the only person who would want such an item probably "can't adjust a router without a router lift" is unfair. Some folks would rather spend their precious time in the shop actually making projects instead of trying to save a dollar and ending up wasting time they don't have with a makeshift jig/shortcut that is either inaccurate, unsafe or both.
Just another opinion.


----------



## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

i agree with you I have dust colector 4" delta with single dust bag and single chip bag hooked up to all machines that can be with blast gates The router table is what bob and rick use with dust colector port It is hook up to the dust colector Still some get down below and on the floor but could be much worse Aso i work next to a 36" exhoust fan also so much dust goes out the window I use a dust mask also I live in so. florida I have the edge on most people That can't open the window Than have snow comming in Right now it is cool here But it won't snow where i am at


----------



## jonwells (Sep 25, 2006)

I'm building a small benchtop router table which will be enclosed, with double doors in front. I plan to exhaust dust from the cabinet with my 2-1/2" hose and shop vac, probably also Y-ing in a small hose from the back of the fence. (I've been quite surprised at what a good job that shop vac does, hooked to the collector on the bottom of a Ridgid table saw. The shop floor stays clean.)
Do any of you have experience with this? Any clues about how much of an air intake to provide and where to put it? I suppose that the smaller the intake the higher the air velocity, but I don't want to overheat the router either (it's a Triton with top adjustments and bit changes).
Jon


----------



## novice wood guy (Jun 30, 2010)

I have a router table mounted in my Table saw, using a Porter Cable 7518 with a bench dog lift, all in all massive assembly. My shop is an attached garage and have always had a dust control issue until I found this "box" on sale at Rockler recently. Bought it, installed and loved it ever since. Catches 85 - 90 % (my guess) of everything without the fence pick up coonected. I am using the small Delta dust colletor (the one on wheels) and would recommend this box or building your own. I was going to build my onw box, but since I caought it for around $45.00, decieded to just do it. I would recommend it to anyopne using thier router in a shop.


----------



## novice wood guy (Jun 30, 2010)

this kind of stuff is for new guys that cant adjust a router without an expensive router lift. lol


How exactly did anyone come to this conclusion without knowing what the "new guys" needs and restriction are?

I bought the box, as I found it on sale for like $39.99, had to hold down the dust in my shop which is a three and a half car garage (1 1/2 car section drape off to keep dust out). I have a dust collector connected, run it with the baffle open, most of my work in done in the erarly hour before work 4 am to 7 am.

Next someone will be saying that my Bosch or Porter Cable routers aren't real routers because they choose not to buy them.

If this is suposed to be a place where "new Guys" can come and get help, then please DON'T HELP ME. 


MY 2 cents worth,
Mike


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

sits and waits:dance3:


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Mike...

don't sweat it! There are far more of us in here interested in your experiences with a particular purchase, pro's and con's than there are of those who just find it necessary to throw out those kinda comments...I think the feedback is as important to the new guys/gals as they are to the more seasoned woodworkers here abouts...

with over 800 views, it appears there are quite a few folks who are interested as well...

besides, everyone knows that Bosch's arn't real routers cuz they are blue!!!:fie:
bill


----------



## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

I see that this is a fairly old thread but I thought I'd contribute my thoughts.

I've got this bucket strapped to the bottom of my table primarily because I was too lazy to cobble together a much needed enclosure to grab dust from below and the dimensions of this bucket allowed me to just bolt in on without major mods to my current setup.

Swinging a 3-1/2" panel raiser on a 7518 motor through a door session not only left the floor a mess but the router itself was almost choked with dust (the intake side). Thus the need for down draft collection because the fence port was not doing the job.

With the bucket at 4" and a 2" tap going to the fence this no longer happens.

Cooling? The combination of constant rapid air flow, no dust choking the motor and the added benefit of a lift acting as a heat sink should be more than sufficient to keep the unit within operating temperatures.

As far as using a lift.... for more years than I'd like to admit to, I used my ol' 7539 plunger with a screw knob under the table for adjustment (a two hand operation, one to free the locking lever and one to turn the screw... eye balling the amount of adjustment) and had to lift the plate out of the table to change over the bits. The lift now allows me to make faster and more accurate adjustments and no need to haul out close to 20lbs of router to change bits.

The 7518 motor is dedicated to the table and the 7539 is once again setup to work from the top.


----------

