# Need Help With Raised Panel Set



## Lowcountrygamecock (Mar 13, 2012)

I'm looking for suggestions on a raised panel bit set. I'm a beginner and haven't really used a router much so I'm learning as I go. I want something that's easy to setup. I will be making doors for my shop cabinets and doors and drawers for a couple small pieces of furniture for in the house. This is a hobby only so they won't be taking a ton of abuse. 
I was looking at the MLCS sets since they have the setup blocks which i assume would make it easier to line everything up correctly. I read some reviews abhout the MLCS bits not being the greatest quality so that makes me nervous. Are the setup blocks a necessity for a beginner?
Everyone says the Katana bits are better quality but they are more expensive. With light use how much does it matter. I'm talking probably 30-40 doors at most right now and maybe another 10-20 down the road.
I saw the write-up on the Sommerfeld bits and how they are designed to line up with the rubber bushing so they are always the correct height. Is that the better way to go than to deal with the setup blocks?
I'm also a little confused about exactly what I need too. I know I will need a matching set of rail and stile bits and a raised panel bit. What i don't know is are the 6 piece cabinet maker sets needed or will the 3 piece rail/style/raised panel be enough to make doors when I already have some basic bits?
I'm really confused on which way to go so any advice would be great.

Thanks


----------



## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

This Sommerfeld bit set is a great one. 6 piece set That set will be all you need in the way of router bits. I would advise getting Marc Sommerfeld's cd, aslo. He gives a lot of very good instruction.
In addition to the bit set and cd, you will need to make or purchase a coping sled to use with the rail and stile coping bits. This one from MLCS is a good one. I actually used it as a pattern and made my own.


----------



## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Gene, if you use a coping sled, does that not defeat the purpose of having matched height bits?


----------



## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hi. I use the Sommerfeld bits but I do not use a coping sled for the cope cuts. You can just use a piece of 3/4" MDF push your material past the bit. It will also help back up the material for tearout. Make your push / backer block large enough to support your material & keep it square to the fence. Cut at least an 8" x 8" square piece. I don't usually use it for the profile cut as you are machining along the grain the length of the styles. I use one for across grain coping cut on the ends of the top & bottom rails.

As far as the 1/2" rubber grommet in the collet goes that will work for any matched height set of bits. Once your coping bit is set you can just change to the profile bit & the rubber grommet will set it at the same height without bottoming out your bits, but always do a test cut first on an extra piece. Then you can machine all four pieces with the profile.

Getting the Sommerfeld DVD's is a good suggestion. There will be many good setup tips. With the amount of doors you want to make I would buy a quality set of bits.

Marc Sommerfeld's New Expanded DVD Collection


----------



## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Set up blocks work if your have wood precisely the size of the set up block. Not all 3/4" are created equal:sarcastic: A Coping sled helps stabilize a piece through an end grain cut but so can the 8" square block with a little practise. Practice is the key word. Even with all accesories in a rockler catalog practise is needed and building doors for shop is a good beginning place


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I agree with James. A spare piece of mdf works great. If you plan on doing that many doors you should go for a pretty good quality set.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I also 2nd Jame's post ,once you use the Sommerfeld way you will not use any other way.

No setup blocks needed and No test setup needed and NO sled needed ,it's that easy ..

==


----------



## Lowcountrygamecock (Mar 13, 2012)

Do the somerfeld bits ever go on sale? Coupon codes maybe? I was hoping to get a set for under $150 but I don't want to sacrifice quality and ease of use by being frugal.


----------



## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Dmeadows said:


> Gene, if you use a coping sled, does that not defeat the purpose of having matched height bits?


Not at all. Think of the surface of the sled as being the surface of the table, and just raise the bits accordingly.

Some one mentioned using a piece of MDF to stabilize the sticks for coping cuts. I tried that and was NOT satisfied. But, as someone else mentioned...practice, practice, practice.:laugh:


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Clearance-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

==



Lowcountrygamecock said:


> Do the somerfeld bits ever go on sale? Coupon codes maybe? I was hoping to get a set for under $150 but I don't want to sacrifice quality and ease of use by being frugal.


----------



## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Gene Howe said:


> Not at all. Think of the surface of the sled as being the surface of the table, and just raise the bits accordingly.
> 
> Some one mentioned using a piece of MDF to stabilize the sticks for coping cuts. I tried that and was NOT satisfied. But, as someone else mentioned...practice, practice, practice.:laugh:


I use MDF, Plywood, any scrap material I can use as a push/backer block as longs as it is at least as thick as the material it is backing.

Using a coping sled defeats the purpose of a matched height set of bits. Especially if using a rubber grommet in the collet to set bits at same height for the next machining process. If you want to use a coping sled then you can use any set whether they are a matched set or not. You will have to set the height of the profile bit evertime anyway. Using a coping sled also means you will have to raise your bit higher in the collet to account for the thickness of the sled. This gives the collet less of the shank to hold the bit with. Short shanks could cause the bit to vibrate more.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I need to disagree with Gene on this one, once you use the sled all bets are off that you will get the parts to match up dead on, the key is NOT to move the router up or down at the time when you switch the bits out and you will do it many times when making cabinet doors..

Many get put off when doing the cope cut on the end of the door parts,because the parts are a bit thinner and they are, thinking they may drop in the hole behind the bit BUT a easy way is to make it safe and easy is to use wider stock,the wider stock will just slip right by the hole, then once you have the cope cut in place take it back to the take saw and rip the part to the right size,if you use 5 1/2" WIDE stock you will have two parts for the door that are dead on...and no chip outs showing the norm because you cut them off when you do the rip job,,it's also true for the pattern cut on the long parts of the door, just put it on both edges of the board then just rip it to size, the same time when you rip the cope board..

So the bottom line is don't use a sled no need to make a very easy job to hard.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/30226-panel-doors-1-4-router.html
===



Gene Howe said:


> Not at all. Think of the surface of the sled as being the surface of the table, and just raise the bits accordingly.
> 
> Some one mentioned using a piece of MDF to stabilize the sticks for coping cuts. I tried that and was NOT satisfied. But, as someone else mentioned...practice, practice, practice.:laugh:


----------



## Lowcountrygamecock (Mar 13, 2012)

So where do you get the rubber grommets? Do those come with the set or are they purchased seperately?


----------



## Bradleytavares (Feb 25, 2012)

Rockler sells the matched rail and style set and has the set up blocks as an accessory. I agree that practice is the key. With as many doors as you plan to build get a quality set. In addition you'll need to sharpen them at some point like when they burn or become difficult to advance the material. Send both cutters in at the same time for sharpening. I've made many doors with the Rockler bits and no sled is necessary but I do find that on longer pieces a hold down is necessary for constant quality in the cuts. Rockler also has a wide variety of profiles for raised panels. It is highly recommended to use set up blocks and they are only a couple of dollars and pay for themselves with accuracy the first time. Best wishes and enjoy the project.


----------



## manutd (Apr 11, 2012)

*panels are need spaces*

I know just what you need. you can contact the expert in setting panel set.
first thing to do is how bis the space you have to put the panel, and then check wheter you the installation is correct or not. such as in kitchens, you cannot put too many panels, your kitchens will not be dangerous because too much electricity in it. why not just put


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

From any hardware store/auto parts store for peanuts the norm..

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/sommerfelds/catalog/page03.pdf

==



Lowcountrygamecock said:


> So where do you get the rubber grommets? Do those come with the set or are they purchased seperately?


----------

