# Table saw sled build



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Just another boring build thread ... this one is for a sled for my table saw.

I watched the "woodworking for mere mortals" sled video, and thought, "I can make one of those". Then I watched a "5 cuts to a perfect sled" video, and thought, "wow, that is something I should do when I make my sled".

So I looked around the garage and found a piece of 3/4" BC ply that was a good size and got to work. I ground off the tabs of my saw's miter tracks, and ripped a couple of 5/8" pieces for the runners and glued them on the bottom.

The "5 cuts" guy made his front face 1 1/2" thick, so I cut two 3" wide pieces to glue together for that. I found another shorter piece of 3/4" ply scrap I could used for the back face. The "mere mortals" guy put a t-track in his, so I put a t-track in mine. I glued the back support down, and put one screw in each end the front face.

That is where I am now: ready to make my 5 cuts and tweak the front face to make it perpendicular.

You will notice that the front face is not flush against the edge of the slde: that is because my square showed that this orientation for the face is closer to 90 than having it flush against the edge.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Another reference for a crosscut sled build.

How to Make a Cross-Cut Sled | The Wood Whisperer

GCG


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Good job Chris. I'm sure you'll like that and be getting some good use out of it.

The first thing you might find that will help with a sled that size on a table that size is some outfeed support. Most tables have the blade somewhat to the rear of the table. That makes for the back of the sled mostly off the table as you finish your cut.

I use a lot of sleds. To the point to where I rarely use my rip fence.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Once it is finished, Chris, you will wonder how you could do wood work without it.

The only down side is replacing the splitter and guard when you want to rip on the table saw.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> Another reference for a crosscut sled build.
> 
> How to Make a Cross-Cut Sled | The Wood Whisperer
> 
> GCG


This guy's video is just like the "5 cuts" guy's ... thanks!

the sled I am making is much smaller than many the ones these guys show ... my saw is also much smaller. it only has 12" on either side of the blade., and is only 17" front to back.

also, i used pine for the runners, :bad:

version 2 (whenever i get around to making another one) will be larger and have hardwood runners.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

You're right tablesaw sleds are one of the best jig .
You will wonder how you got along without one in the past.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Chris you will find using a softer wood like pine will wear and you may need to replace them in the future depending on how much you use your sled. I have found the hardwood runners work better and with a little application of Paste wax glide very nicely giving you a smooth operating guide.

I need to make a new sled and one big enough to make Cross Grain cutting boards as shown on the Wood Whisper. With my sled I will incoporate the Greg T-Track with flip stop for repetive cuts. I have the Greg at my mitre station and can use the stop at both locations if nee be so the added cost of the T-Track should make it a good option.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

That's the thing about me ... ALL the wood I have is either pine or plywood. I MIGHT have one piece of oak somewhere ... think I could locate that if someone was holding a gun to my head?

The piece of ply I had lying around was 24"x24", so after cutting the pieces for the fences, it was 18x24. After putting the fences on there, there is about 15" of space between the fences.

So this sled is definately not as good or as big as it could be, but it will no doubt be better than what I am doing currently.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Baby steps lol. Rome was not built in a day. Everyone has different uses and as long as it suits you that is all that is needed.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I did the 5 cut method tonight, and it was pretty close. I adjusted the fence and locked it down. Phew, that's done.

Now I really need to clean up the shop!


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## Airman (Feb 22, 2012)

Planning to build a sled but undecided as to what is the best size. I like the Kreg sled with one runner and sliding side to allow for different blade thickness (dados). Has anyone made one?


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

I think 2 runners are needed to get the possible accuracy out of a sled.
Otherwise, it might not be better then just using the miter, or worse from the weight.
Sleds are so easy to make, constucting one just for dado work seems good to me-one of my next projects.

Don


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hello Airman.. I built the sled below several years back intending to cover just about all my bases. The sled allows for about 22"s depth and is approx. 37"s or so wide. The brown streak down the middle is actually an insert. I can change out the insert for zero clearance as needed. Thin kerf, reg. kerf etc., including dado's. since building it though, I've never had a need to do dado work off of the sled. For that i've decided the TS fence is just fine. If you do go for it, consider the size of the dado blade you'll use and place that against the base for the sled. The thickness of the base takes away immediately from the depth of cut you'll have available with the dado...

HTH

bill



Airman said:


> Planning to build a sled but undecided as to what is the best size. I like the Kreg sled with one runner and sliding side to allow for different blade thickness (dados). Has anyone made one?


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

That is the nicest sled I have seen-WOW!

Don


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## Airman (Feb 22, 2012)

Thanks Don. I guess it's best not to compromise accuracy seeing that it is one of the major goals. Best not to build in too many options


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## Airman (Feb 22, 2012)

Bill that's not a sled, it's a work of art. You've put a lot of thought and attention to detail into it. Great job. That sounds like the right size for me as well.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

TwoSkies57 said:


> If you do go for it, consider the size of the dado blade you'll use and place that against the base for the sled. The thickness of the base takes away immediately from the depth of cut you'll have available with the dado...
> 
> bill


Bill,

Always love the pictures of your sled and jigs. Great craftmanship!!! Would love to see a detail on the replaceable insert.

One note of your comment above. True, but just adding a persective to ponder: 

"Your" pictured saw has a depth of cut of 3.25" with a 10" blade. With an 8" dado, that puts it at 2.25". Say you use 3/4" for the base... (I know that's pretty thick, but an extreme example.) That puts the depth of cut at 1.5". 75-80% of dado cuts are less than 3/8". Even if using a 6" dado with the above saw and sled, your depth of cut would be around 1/2".

Just a thought that it might not be that bad... as long a you know where those limits are. Most my sled bases are 3/8" to 1/2", depending on it's intended use.

For dado's, I built this one with a 1/2" base:
http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/403/precisioncrosscutsled.pdf


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## LiLRdWgn (Dec 31, 2011)

Chris Curl said:


> Just another boring build thread ... this one is for a sled for my table saw.
> 
> I watched the "woodworking for mere mortals" sled video, and thought, "I can make one of those". Then I watched a "5 cuts to a perfect sled" video, and thought, "wow, that is something I should do when I make my sled".
> 
> ...


Good Morning Chris, and Happy New Year, LOL, I've yet to find a boring post with this forum. It's always giving me new ideas.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Airman said:


> Planning to build a sled but undecided as to what is the best size. I like the Kreg sled with one runner and sliding side to allow for different blade thickness (dados). Has anyone made one?


Here is another cross cut sled you may want to consider. Airman you will find many different variations and this is due in part to what you intend to use it for. When I rebuild mine I will make it big enough to handle what I do most commonly. 

Good luck with the build and post some pictures so we can see how you made out.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Great sled by the way Bill. Did you have a post on how you built it?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Great sled by the way Bill. Did you have a post on how you built it?


Here you go Dan...

http://www.routerforums.com/twoskies57-gallery/17549-crosscut-sled.html


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Howdy Mike... Thank you for the kind words 

I put a link to a thread on the sled in reply to TRN's post. If you would like more details, let me know and I'll answer as best I can. 
As for the depth of the dado cut, your exactly right. The one big issue with my sled is the thickness of the base. Mine is just a hair over 1" thick. WAY, WAY to thick!!!! The darn thing weighs a ton . Sturdy as all hell, has remained dead nuts accurate for several years now of regular use. My comment was to serve only as a reminder and something to think about. When I built the sled, I was wanting to have the ability to do dado's with it. And I suppose I still do, just never have. For that operation, I just preferre the TS or RT. Next one will be 3/4" (my preference). The extra mass (thickness) I don't believe has really served much purpose or added much in any way to the sled. 

The insert actually has worked out very nicely. I can swap out, or just replace as needed. It takes very little to make a blank and install. Thickness of insert is just a hair over 1/8". Seems sturdy enough but next one will go more towards 1/4". I had considered using rare earth magnets as a means to anchor the insert, thus making it easier to remove and install, BUT I just don't think they would anchor down the insert as well as what would be needed. The insert slot runs under the rear fence. Insert is installed and removed by sliding it under the rear fence, into position and then screwed down into place...

HTH...

Bill



MAFoElffen said:


> Bill,
> 
> Always love the pictures of your sled and jigs. Great craftmanship!!! Would love to see a detail on the replaceable insert.
> 
> ...


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

I'd just like to say that no matter the materials used to construct any jig, as long as the fundamentals of the intended purpose are followed they are all good!!!! I tend to make pretty jigs. Just cause, I like to do that. But before I do anything, I try to make sure that it will be a 'functional' jig and just not a wall hanger. Whether its a couple pieces of left over ply you have sitting around or digging from the scrap pile, there is no right or wrong when it comes to looks, just does it do what you want it to do, do it well and do it consistently. These are the things I look at the hardest. I have several sleds, most of which are just plywood. And they work great.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Here is another cross cut sled you may want to consider. Airman you will find many different variations and this is due in part to what you intend to use it for. When I rebuild mine I will make it big enough to handle what I do most commonly.
> 
> Good luck with the build and post some pictures so we can see how you made out.


Thanks for the Sketchup files Dan, they are really helpful in understanding the design and build of the sled.


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## Airman (Feb 22, 2012)

Dan, sorry I dropped out of the conversation. Am working 2 weeks on 2 weeks off shift up in Northern Alberta Canada and our internet/3g service is crappy. I can't open the sled zip files but thanks anyway


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

No worries my friend I know what it is like to work shift work.

I am sorry you can not open the files but perhaps we can trouble shoot why this is happening. A few question if I may:

They are compressed so you need something like winzip to uncompress them. You can download the program free off the net. 

If you have winzip or some other program which allows you to open compressed files the next program you will need to open the files is Google SketchUp. It can also be downloaded free from the net. Once this is installed you will be able to view the files.

If all else fails I may be able to convert them to a PDF document and email them to you.

Let me know if any of my suggestions help.


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## Airman (Feb 22, 2012)

I had downloaded Winzip thinking my problems would be solved but still can't open the file.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

What about Google SketchUp? The files are from Google Sketchup, in order to open them you need this program. Sorry for the confusion.

http://www.sketchup.com/intl/en/download/


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Here is the pdf. This should solve your problems.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Dan et al:

Using WinZIP 14.5 and SketchUp 8.0, I was able to read all three files in the ZIP file, without error.

Cassandra


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## Airman (Feb 22, 2012)

Thanks Dan the pdf file works great but now I feel somehow less than a man for not being able to open the zip file. It's kind of like when someone else opened the top of the jar that you tried so hard to but could'nt. 
The plan for the sled looks great and I like the tenon jig plan as well.
Can't wait to get home to build one.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

LOL No worries


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## Airman (Feb 22, 2012)

TRN thanks for your help. This is what I whipped up the day I got home. It's a variation of a few plans, 24"x36"Baltic birch base, alder front and rear fence with a T track on the top. I installed 2 UHDE runners and i'ts even turned out accurate. Made a little stop and so I am in the sled cutting business.


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

Nice looking sled there!

Don


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Your very welcome! and by the way nicely done. You will get many years out of that sled. Let me know how you like it after you have used it for a bit. i.e. any needed mods


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Airman said:


> TRN thanks for your help. This is what I whipped up the day I got home. It's a variation of a few plans, 24"x36"Baltic birch base, alder front and rear fence with a T track on the top. I installed 2 UHDE runners and i'ts even turned out accurate. Made a little stop and so I am in the sled cutting business.


Hi Steve,

You be be amazed at how easy it makes work and you will wonder how you managed without it in the past.

If you do not have a shed full of tools, I would make this the first table saw jig in my shed.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

I keep seeing 'table saw sleds' no matter what magazine I look at plus here. I even copied a plan from the town libraries August '12 (I think) Fine Woodworking. 

But with that said, don't know why I even need one though Norm used one as well as David Marks in building their projects. 

Help is needed (that is, for me anyhow:help


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Dave, accuracy is the main reason people build a crosscut saw sled. The mitre guide that is included with "most" table saws is woefully inadequate. The sled isn't the answer for all cuts of course, but for straight crosscuts it's dead-on accurate when it's setup correctly. You can also build different sleds for dead-on angle cuts.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

BrianS said:


> Dave, accuracy is the main reason people build a crosscut saw sled. The mitre guide that is included with "most" table saws is woefully inadequate. The sled isn't the answer for all cuts of course, but for straight crosscuts it's dead-on accurate when it's setup correctly. You can also build different sleds for dead-on angle cuts.


Thanks Brian - kinda thought that's what they worked best for. I generally use my radial arm saw for anything up to 12" or so wide as it is a lot more accurate then the poor miter gauge that has been on my list for replacement for a long time


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## tdog (Nov 30, 2011)

*worth the effort*

Built mine just to get rid of that thing they call a sliding compound miter saw off my workbench.Takes to much room in my tiny shop and not nearly as accurate as the sled.
Tdog.
If it aint broke use a bigger hammer.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Dave 

If I can add one more thing it excels at is repetitive cuts. If your working on a project like kitchen cabinets and need to cut rails and stiles to a certain length , you can very quickly and easily do this with the aid of a stop block and "C" clamp.

My old TS sled needs an upgrade and I plan on making another one a bit bigger and one that allows me to do anlge cuts as well.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Sounds like I have one more tool update coming - repeatability is for sure a necessity. Looks like the Fine Woodworking versions (they have a big and a small one) will be my guide since it uses two miter slides. Looks like I need to pick up some oak for my kitchen project and one more 'stick' for the miter slots wont even dent my billfold any more at this point:sarcastic:


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

TRN_Diesel said:


> My old TS sled needs an upgrade and I plan on making another one a bit bigger and one that allows me to do anlge cuts as well.


I was thinking of mentioning ___ while this thread was going on, but refrained. I don't know why, just thought it would distract from.

On angled cuts and miters in a sled, I tend to prefer a narrower sled... that way the work piece can extend past the rear fence. For miters I tend to use a sled with a full front fence but just a short narrow fence in the rear.

If you take a "square" cut piece and cut it in half, so you have a 90 and two 45's, put the long side against the rear fence with the leading angle bisecting the kerf. That way, when you put work on each side of that new miter fence, you are making the same cut on each side of your miter, getting a perfect easy matching miter for frames to end up square.

I also have precut blocks cut for miters to create pentagons, hexagons and octagons.

I tried using one of my monster sized sleds for miters- putting on miter guided blocks. A full rear fence always restricted work pieces to a size that would fit within the sled. I have sleds with slots, so I could angle auxillery fences for a miter. It works, but takes time and effort to get them set. Still the same limitations with a full rear fence. The pre-cut mitered blocks work out a lot faster, easier and more accurate.


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