# Need a looooong bit



## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

Is there a straight bit with a 4-1/2 inch cut? I need to trim an edge that is made up of a 2x4 topped by a 3/4 inch thick board. Total cut, at least 4-1/4 inch. Prefer 1/2 inch shank


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Daryl

That's pushing it , I don't know of one that long..
Sounds like a job for the hand plane or the power hand planer but it's only 3 1/4 wide the norm..I have seen some power hand sanders that can push 4" wide belts..

Good luck with that one.. 

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sofasurfer said:


> Is there a straight bit with a 4-1/2 inch cut? I need to trim an edge that is made up of a 2x4 topped by a 3/4 inch thick board. Total cut, at least 4-1/4 inch. Prefer 1/2 inch shank


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

You might be able to use an end mill like one of these (at the bottom of page):E120-1/2 endmill

Pricey though.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

sofasurfer said:


> Is there a straight bit with a 4-1/2 inch cut? I need to trim an edge that is made up of a 2x4 topped by a 3/4 inch thick board. Total cut, at least 4-1/4 inch. Prefer 1/2 inch shank




start with a pattern bit with a top bearing and go as far down as you can.
then, a pattern bit with a bottom bearing to complete the cut.

As long as the lengths of the two overlap by at least 1/4", you're fine.


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## hcim (Sep 13, 2009)

allthunbs said:


> start with a pattern bit with a top bearing and go as far down as you can.
> then, a pattern bit with a bottom bearing to complete the cut.
> 
> As long as the lengths of the two overlap by at least 1/4", you're fine.


AGREE !!!
That's the way to do with router, if you insist to use router.

:thank_you2:


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

hcim said:


> AGREE !!!
> That's the way to do with router, if you insist to use router.


Hi Mich:

I do admit, I am router focused. It is the first tool I reach for when I'm working on something. That said, is there another way? 

Ron


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

*methods*

The first questions I would have is which edge is proud of the other, and can either act as a reference surface? For example, if the ply is proud of the 2x4 face, but the 2x4 face is the reference surface, you really only need to trim the ply - a 3/4" cut. If both need to be trimmed to a secondary reference edge, I think I'd look for another method. The thought of a bit that long spinning at 20K rpm give me the willies - especially at something near waist level.

A belt sander would be a lot safer, I'd think. A 6" edge sander would be another option, but I'm assuming the piece is too large to handle easily.

Makita makes hand-held power planers up to 12 1/4" wide, which would be another option.

http://www.makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/Default.aspx?CatID=32


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Daryl, if possible post a photo of the project. That might bring up other solutions.

I think the best solution is to use a 4" bit, guide bushing and follow a template. By doing this you can make a pass, adjust the bit deeper and make a second pass. Since you are following the template you should get a smooth finish.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

If you can get it on the table, use a jointer. If not, use a jointer plane.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Longest bit I've used is called a pocket hole bit. Mine are sold by Wealden in the UK, although Trend also sell them. With the Trend door lock mortise jig I can rout up to about 90mm with the 1/2in (12.7mm) one


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## Tom76 (Aug 28, 2009)

Most routers do not have that depth of plunge
Nna


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Correct, but these long bits need to be used with a guide bush and a template jig and the mortise you cut out with them must be slightly wider than the bit itself. To work a lock mortise with a pocket hole cutter and a deWalt DW625 (70mm DoC) it is sometimes necessary to push the cutter well up into the collet whilst the first 5 or 6 passes are made then to stop the router, extend the bit further and lock it in the collet before completing the mortise. Each pass takes only 4 to 6mm (not more than 1/4in). I've been mortising locks out this way for a couple of years now (several hundreds in fact) and I can tell you that the technique is a good one, if a bit unnerving at first. The lock slots can be up to 17mm wide x 235mm long x 75mm deep on commercial locks.

If you want to see the jig/router I use take a look here and follow the video link. The difference between that video and how I work is that I personally don't "drill" out the mortise before routing and that often I rout the mortise in situ with the door hung on the frame. That means multiple shallow passes until final depth is reached. It takes practice to hold a router staedy like that, but many tradesmen over here have mastered the "art"


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Phil

In the states will have them for only 80.oo bucks..

YouTube - 1293 InteriorDoorKit from Milescraft

Amazon.com: Milescraft 1293 Interior Door Mortising Kit for 1-3/8-Inch Doors and Jambs: Home Improvement: Reviews, Prices & more

Or for 25.oo bucks
http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-12...ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1288141286&sr=1-5

It's one time thing for most of us 

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Phil P said:


> Correct, but these long bits need to be used with a guide bush and a template jig and the mortise you cut out with them must be slightly wider than the bit itself. To work a lock mortise with a pocket hole cutter and a deWalt DW625 (70mm DoC) it is sometimes necessary to push the cutter well up into the collet whilst the first 5 or 6 passes are made then to stop the router, extend the bit further and lock it in the collet before completing the mortise. Each pass takes only 4 to 6mm (not more than 1/4in). I've been mortising locks out this way for a couple of years now (several hundreds in fact) and I can tell you that the technique is a good one, if a bit unnerving at first. The lock slots can be up to 17mm wide x 235mm long x 75mm deep on commercial locks.
> 
> If you want to see the jig/router I use take a look here and follow the video link. The difference between that video and how I work is that I personally don't "drill" out the mortise before routing and that often I rout the mortise in situ with the door hung on the frame. That means multiple shallow passes until final depth is reached. It takes practice to hold a router staedy like that, but many tradesmen over here have mastered the "art"


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## nigjoe (Aug 18, 2010)

You can purchase a lock set bit in lengths up to 12" 16mm dia thru to 1" shank. Used generally for large high end door locksets. I use an 18mm 8" long bit to do the seperation cut (with tabs) for curved handrails. Generally they have chipbreakers for only the first 1.5 to 2" tho


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Joe

Aren't they designed for semi-static machines? I know that the Porter cable and Virutex lock mortisers use cutter heads on the ends of very long shafts, but the router motor of those is strapped permanently into the guide jig.


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