# Grinder for sharpening lathe tools



## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

G9717 6" Bench Grinder w/ 1/2" Arbor

Pro and Cons for this one?


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

Ralph I would get a 8" slow speed grinder. I got my for about $100 at Woodcraft. I also got the wolverine sharpening system. It sure make sharpening tools a lot easier and you get the same grind every time. The wolverine syatem works best with a 8" grinder. Just my $1.298.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

As Bernie suggested, this grinder is very fast. Slower is better if you can find one. The stock wheels are only good for sharpening lawn mower blades and automotive type chisels. I put a white, soft bond Norton wheel on mine. I still have to keep a quench tray handy but it takes longer to get my chisels hot with the white wheel produces a better initial finish.


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

Forgot to say that the Woodcraft grinder has white wheels and I still have mine on using it now for 5 yrs. I am getting ready to put a 180 grit CBN wheel on as soon as it comes in. Yep it is $185 but they don't wear out and never need cleaned or squared. It doesn't heat up the metal at all. I sharpened some plane blades razor sharp and they seem to hold a edge longer. I do have the CBN hone and it works like a champ. So decided to get one ordered. Here they are. Diamond Grinding Wheels | CBN Grinding Wheels | Diamond Sharpening Wheels


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## cedarwood (Feb 3, 2012)

Ralph I used to use a grinder to sharpen my tools but now use a belt type (robert sorby) with this I get a flat grind instead of concave and no heating of the blade.
The belts last quite well (haven't worn one out yet) are easy to change and come in a range of grit from 60 up to 3000 which give a 2 micron sharpness (equivalent to a disposable razor).
I have found that my chisels hold their edge for longer with a flat grind as apposed to a concave one from using a round wheel.
Well thats my twopennarth


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

So I can just use my combo sander's belts to sharpen. Thanks for the tip.
I have 60, 80, 150, 180, 220, 240, 320 and 400 belts for it.

I'll make some angles out of wood to use as guides.

I'll be sure to blow any wood dust out so sparks to have a chance of making fire.


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

This one may be a better choice...

http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Grinder-Sharpener/T10097


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## cedarwood (Feb 3, 2012)

Ralph I would expect that sanding belts are not quite the same as sharpening belts, but I have never looked to see if they are different.

The belts for my specific sharpener come as either Aluminum Oxide, Ceramic or Zirconium.

The belt which I use for a fine finish is a 3M "trizact" A6 3000 grit Aluminium Oxide, for scrapers I use the Trizact A30 600 grit as these tools require a burr for fine cutting.

A Trizact structured belt is different to other abrasive belts. Being arranged in an open form the abrasive allows for a rapid cut, with greater resistance to clogging which in turn means much less friction creating a cooler cut and extended belt life. These belts are also suitable for sharpening high speed steel turning tools and carbon steel edge and carving tools.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

rwl7532 said:


> So I can just use my combo sander's belts to sharpen. Thanks for the tip.
> I have 60, 80, 150, 180, 220, 240, 320 and 400 belts for it.
> 
> I'll make some angles out of wood to use as guides.
> ...


Ralph, if this is the machine you're talking about Sander/Grinder - Lee Valley Tools then there are a number of belt options Lee Valley Tools - Item Search including the trizact which goes to 2000 grit and some 3M belts to 1000grit. For a really fine edge I use felt wheels with the green honing compound (8000 grit) but the leather belt with the compound will do the same or better.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I've got a small bench belt sander, and that's what I sharpen my lathe tools on. I just use whatever belt is on it at the time, don't notice any difference, and really am satisfied with the sharpening. Fast, and easy. Done it that way for years. But, of course, up to you.


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## LiLRdWgn (Dec 31, 2011)

rwl7532 said:


> G9717 6" Bench Grinder w/ 1/2" Arbor
> 
> Pro and Cons for this one?


GM Ralph, Reading some of the other comments I'd agree with them. As for the one you are looking at. I checked the spec. on it. The 3 AMP motor would scare me. I know for sharping tools you wouldn't need all the power, but I had one with 3 Amp's and I could just about stop it from turning with my finger. LOL, not that I would try it but it don't take much to stop it. Just my 2 cents. :happy:


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

JOAT said:


> I've got a small bench belt sander, and that's what I sharpen my lathe tools on. I just use whatever belt is on it at the time, don't notice any difference, and really am satisfied with the sharpening. Fast, and easy. Done it that way for years. But, of course, up to you.


I have the Hitachi SB10Y.

I'll see how it does.

As I mentioned before, I'll make from wood something I can place on the table that will assist in keeping the angle correct for the tool being sharpened.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I have one of these and it works well Veritas® Grinder Tool Rest - Lee Valley Tools . I don't think it would be that hard to make a wooden version of it.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

You can always try this............VBG......

woodworking tips with the belt sander - YouTube


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## cedarwood (Feb 3, 2012)

Hmm good tips for the mr average handyman not so good for a precise cutting edge on turning chisels this video is better


SL-TV Ep03 - Robert Sorby ProEdge Demo - YouTube


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## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

I went a different direction. I've had the slow grinder from Woodcraft for years.
Never was satisfied.

Now I've bought a set of Easy Wood Tools. Carbide cutter is replaceable. Haven't turned a lot yet but it solves (eliminates) sharpening problem.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

The Sorby jigs are neat, but a bit pricey. I would think it would be easy enough to make a version of them, if I wanted.

When I sharpen lathe tools on my bench belt sander, I don't use any jigs at all. I just hold the tool being sharpened as close to the original angle as I can. Then sharpen.
My theory on this is, a tool like a plane has a fixed blade, and it always cuts on the same angle, so should be sharpened accurately on that angle, if you want it to cut accurately.
But a wood lathe tool is constantly being moved and the cutting angle constantly changes, so it doesn't really matter that it is 'accurately' sharpened each and every time. And, after years of doing it my way, I seem to be right. It's a case of close enough is good enough. Not saying you shouldn't be careful, and try to get it sharpened as close to the proper angle as you can, because you should, just don't need to go overboard about it. But if you want to sharpen lathe tools with jigs, more power to you.


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