# Finished a spline jig



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

My wife is a budding artist, getting pretty good with oil and gorgeous color pencil work that looks like the Dutch masters still life paintings. But that means we are buying stretched canvasas and decorative frames. So its time to start making them. So today I put together a spline jig to build stronger frames and canvas stretchers. 

Turned out really well. Here's pictures of the process. Started with a 3/4 ply base, then cut the front and back work rest to 45 degrees , plus a support for the back side of the work rest. 

The assembly of that first support sets up the whole jig, so I assembled in using clamps, on top of an open trash container so the clamps had a place to get out of the way of the base and back. Counter sunk for screws and glued and screwed the pieces together. Perfect. (Put packing tape on the 2x to keep the squeeze out from sticking.)

Once that was done, I test fitted the back workpiece support onto the base to establish a center line, then used a drafting square to mark the line where the two 45 degree edges would join.

Then cut a grove for the T track across the back workpiece rest. Used slightly longer screws that went through the track into the back workpiece support for extra strength. Glue too, of course. Lots of extra glue for the plywood diagonal end edge joints.

Cut a short front support, 45 degrees, about 2.5 inches on the tall side. Butted the front workpiece support to the centerline to meet up to the edge of the back workpiece support. Used a pin nailer to hold everything in place while the glue dried. Clamping angles is not much fun...I used a small wooden triangle to square things up so I could clamp the angled pieces.

Used a drafting triangle to continually check for square as shown in the picture to set the angle of the front support so that front and back formed a perfect 90. Worked like a charm.

Cut a piece of hardwood to slightly shy of 3/8ths, and fitted it with a hand plane to fit the miter slot. Nickles raised it slightly. I waxed the table around and in the slots to keep the glue out, then glued them to the base after squaring the base to the slot.

Last, cut a piece of 1/2 Baltic Birch to form a vertical support. Glued it a piece of 3/4 ply with a hole drilled for a T nut and knob that slides in the T slot to position the workpiece above the blade. Triangles glued to the sliding pieces made it rigid and perfectly vertical.

The finished result is very cool. I was able to do the whole thing with cutoffs and stock already on hand.

Need to find a 1/8 inch kerf blade that leaves a flat groove. I think I saw a set of 2 blades, 1/8th kerf and 1/4 kerf. Combine them for a 3/8 groove. Any other suggestions for finding a good 1/8th blade? Doesn't have to be 10 inches. My Glueline blade has less than a 1/8th kerg.


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## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

Hey Tom, I like that. I see that you have put a track for making adjustments. I also notice you have two miter rails to give more stability plus the support under the two 45s. Very well made. Have you used it yet. It looks like the slot the blade cut is pretty narrow. What type of blade is that. I think inlays that are narrow looks very nice.
Malcolm / Kentucky USA


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

I keep seeing these jigs and thinking 'I need one of them'. Then I make the jig and wonder, 'where am I gonna store it now!'

Great jig Tom, and looks sturdy.


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## Belg (Nov 2, 2011)

I saw a video not too long ago where a biscuit cutter was used as a spline cutter. Just offering another option to accomplish the same task.


















Or this was a more elaborate version. 

https://www.canadianwoodworking.com/plans-projects/biscuit-joiner-spline-jig


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Nice job Tom. The outside chippers on a dado set are supposed to be exactly 1/8". I also see quite a few blades that are advertised as .126 kerf which allows for some thin glue in the joint. All you need is a flat top grind in one of those. A couple of manufacturers are offering box joint sets with two blades that can cut 1/4" and 3/8" grooves which would offer you more variety. Freud Tools | 8" Box Joint Cutter Set


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Nice job Tom. The outside chippers on a dado set are supposed to be exactly 1/8". I also see quite a few blades that are advertised as .126 kerf which allows for some thin glue in the joint. All you need is a flat top grind in one of those. A couple of manufacturers are offering box joint sets with two blades that can cut 1/4" and 3/8" grooves which would offer you more variety. Freud Tools | 8" Box Joint Cutter Set


I had thought about the dado set. Will try it and see if it can make a really smooth cut. The jig should prevent chipout I saw the dual size set you mentioned and think that might be a good option. Thinking it through, I can see using replacable blocks as sacrificial backers when changing blade widths. Just raise the blade a little bit higher. Also thinking of making a version for the router table for decorative splines on boxes.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

kywoodchopper said:


> Hey Tom, I like that. I see that you have put a track for making adjustments. I also notice you have two miter rails to give more stability plus the support under the two 45s. Very well made. Have you used it yet. It looks like the slot the blade cut is pretty narrow. What type of blade is that. I think inlays that are narrow looks very nice.
> Malcolm / Kentucky USA


The blade is a Freud Glue Line that cuts a flat bottomed groove, used it to construct everything because it makes such a smooth cut even on ply. Used it because there are at least 4, 45 degree cuts that are end glued to a flat surface. Used AMPLE glue on those edges and let them sit for a couple of hours to cure. The two diagonal supports look different, but are actually the result of a single cut. Same with the vertical supports. The back support takes the brunt of the stress, so I placed the T track so that the screws holding it in place go through to reinforce the support connection. 

Hint, I cut the front support (the short, vertical piece) to an estimated height and pushed it forward and back at glue up with the 90 on the triangle in the V in order to get it exactly sqare. Locked it all down once square. That gave me a little wiggle room. Thinking the project through took a lot more time than building it.

The vertical fence give plenty of room to clamp the workpiece down. I only used glue on that since it is so close to thhe cut line. I laterr cut a little off width of the fence backer with the knob on it because the two glued in triangles are what hold it square.


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## ksidwy (Jul 13, 2013)

Nice work, Tom! I like your Job too much, and the way you explains it, really makes easily understood! Congrats!
Sid.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Today I'm going to start on a miter sled. Once its done I can start making canvas stretchers and frames for my honey and start earing husband points. Seems that the ability ot have a movable stop block is really critical. Torn between a taller designn vs one that uses an aluminum rule that is much shorter. Frames to hold stretcherr mounted canvases have to be close to 2 inches thick to allow for inlays, shaping and copeing so I'm inclined to makke the taller version and not worry about the rule. I was thinking of using hardwood for the V shaped supports, but it might be easier cut and layerr ply. I have some cutoffs from my workbench project that are 1.5 inches thick that would probably be perrfect for that job. I may just assemble a stop block that slides on one of the two rails from the same materrial, with a bridge on top linking two pieces, then use a T nut and bolt to lock it in place.

One other option is to make thinner frames and glue on a small piece on the back to create a "rabbit' into which the stretched canvas fits. might be easierr, but could create a problem with finishing the edges. 

Custom made frames to match the tone and style of the painting is a great finishing touch for artwork and also makes it easier to sell. That's why if you watch Antiques Roadshow, the always have positve comments when the frame is original.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

nice looking jig Tom.


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## marecat3 (Nov 30, 2010)

would like to see her work as well as your finished frame


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

Tom - nice job. I have the plans for a similar jig that I hope to get to before the end of the year. One thing that may be helpful is to add a depth scale on the vertical side wall. Either glue a tape or measure and mark a scale from the bottom of the 90 degree joint up. The bottom of the joint is where the blade first cuts and is the 0 inch mark. That way you can set the blade height without fumbling with a ruler each time. Hope this helps. Let us know how the jig works and if you can recommend any other helpful modifications.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

kywoodchopper said:


> Hey Tom, I like that. I see that you have put a track for making adjustments. I also notice you have two miter rails to give more stability plus the support under the two 45s. Very well made. Have you used it yet. It looks like the slot the blade cut is pretty narrow. What type of blade is that. I think inlays that are narrow looks very nice.
> Malcolm / Kentucky USA


Nearly all my blades were narrow kerf, so I found a terrific flat top rip blade that's a tad over 1/8th and ordered it. I have in mind taking this on when I get back from a trip. I have to reset my jointer so I can start with flat stock.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Designate one blade as the blade you will use every time you do your splines. Gather 3-5 different kinds of wood from the cut-off's pile. Take an afternoon and mill them down to the exact specs for the designated blade. Make up a nice stash of each kind of wood and set aside for future use. This will save time and set-up when you need em. Nice to have an assortment handy to get a good feel of how one variety looks opposed to another in the project..


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Very handy, Tom...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Designate one blade as the blade you will use every time you do your splines. Gather 3-5 different kinds of wood from the cut-off's pile. Take an afternoon and mill them down to the exact specs for the designated blade. Make up a nice stash of each kind of wood and set aside for future use. This will save time and set-up when you need em. Nice to have an assortment handy to get a good feel of how one variety looks opposed to another in the project..


great tip Bill...


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

DesertRatTom said:


> . Thinking the project through took a lot more time than building it.
> 
> .


Ain't that the truth


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

better than very nice work Tom...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Designate one blade as the blade you will use every time you do your splines. Gather 3-5 different kinds of wood from the cut-off's pile. Take an afternoon and mill them down to the exact specs for the designated blade. Make up a nice stash of each kind of wood and set aside for future use. This will save time and set-up when you need em. Nice to have an assortment handy to get a good feel of how one variety looks opposed to another in the project..


Will do! Thanks for the suggestion.


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## repabst (Aug 16, 2016)

This looks pretty amazing.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Nice job, Tom...well made and your description and pictures are spot on...easy to read and easier to follow...I had a picture building in my mind as I was reading it...thanks for sharing...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Nickp said:


> Nice job, Tom...well made and your description and pictures are spot on...easy to read and easier to follow...I had a picture building in my mind as I was reading it...thanks for sharing...


 @Nickp I've used it several times now. Found a variety of exotic and colorful wood at Rockler that was 1/8ths thick, same as the blade I assigned to it. I probably have a 10 year supply of splines. That and the Grizzly miter trimmer makes for a strong, square frame.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

vindaloo said:


> I keep seeing these jigs and thinking 'I need one of them'. Then I make the jig and wonder, 'where am I gonna store it now!'
> 
> Great jig Tom, and looks sturdy.


 @vindaloo Lost track of this string a while back. Splines to reinforce corners are strong AND decorative. This jig is good for any time you want to put a spline through a corner. 

Storage in my shed is also tight, so I have one corner dedicated to oversize shelving, about 4 of them altogether. They are on adjustable brackets so i can fiddle with space between them. I'm able to store all my jigs in that one area, yet my sanding station still fits there, and so does a roll out 9 inch band saw I use for small stuff.

I have also gone vertical, and I'm in the process of putting shelving up high on the shed walls so things I don't use often can go up there. I have a full width, 24 inch deep work surface on one end of the shop that I'm seriously thinking of removing. I can store stuff under it, but it is really just a junk magnate, so I'm likely to put shelving and another tool or two over there. 

I also try to keep the bottom 16 inches of each wall clear so I can vacuum out sawdust. Works in theory, but it is very hard to keep it clear. My shop is a 12x24 shed, wired and insulated. Back wall is all pegboard and holds a lot of stuff on hooks. The very top is unreachable so I'm likely to put some very high shelves up there to store the very seldom used stuff. 

The shed is the size of a one car garage space. My wife gave me a Christmas present some years ago and had an electrician put in a 60 amp sub panel, so I have three 20 amp circuits out there. One circuit for heater or AC, second for dust collector, third for tool in use. I color coded the outlets to avoid overloads. 

I put in a second 10x12 shed next to the shop and it shares the power, since I'm in one or the other, but never both. It is the office for my consulting business.

I'm sharing this with you Angie in hopes it will be useful and make your shop time more fun.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Tom, that looks great but I'm with Angie as far as space, where am I going to put this thing. I'm eventually going to get that garage built
and make room in my current garage, then I can have fun building using these jigs.

Bryan


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> Will do! Thanks for the suggestion.


look to a designated slot cutter also...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

bryansong said:


> Tom, that looks great but I'm with Angie as far as space, where am I going to put this thing. I'm eventually going to get that garage built
> and make room in my current garage, then I can have fun building using these jigs.
> 
> Bryan


Go vertical!


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> Go vertical!


Tom,

If I went vertical I'd have to find a place for the piano as well as the computer. That is an interesting thought though, I have to ask the wife first.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

invert the piano and hang it from the ceiling..


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> invert the piano and hang it from the ceiling..


Another Great suggestion, I don't know why I don't think of these things.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@bryansong Piano!?! :surprise:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> @bryansong Piano!?! :surprise:


that's what I thought...


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> that's what I thought...


What are you guys talking about? I missed something.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> @bryansong Piano!?! :surprise:


Tom, see my previous quote of Stick.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@bryansong I was just surprised about the piano. May have missed something in the thread, but it was MY first time seeing that instrument pop up in any shop. I don't have a piano in my shop, although there are a couple of dark corners that might host a violin (spider that is). :wink:

I do have a lizard in there now and again, which is fine because they eat any bugs. I think the piano situation would be complicated depending on whether it is a spinet, upright, baby grand or grand. Harder to attach anything to the curves on a grand.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> @bryansong I was just surprised about the piano. May have missed something in the thread, but it was MY first time seeing that instrument pop up in any shop. I don't have a piano in my shop, although there are a couple of dark corners that might host a violin (spider that is). :wink:
> 
> I do have a lizard in there now and again, which is fine because they eat any bugs. I think the piano situation would be complicated depending on whether it is a spinet, upright, baby grand or grand. Harder to attach anything to the curves on a grand.


That's pretty funny Tom, the piano is in the room above the shop so when you said I'd have to go vertical that would put me in the piano room.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

bryansong said:


> That's pretty funny Tom, the piano is in the room above the shop so when you said I'd have to go vertical that would put me in the piano room.


 @bryansong That explains it. Do you or your wife play? A live piano makes the most beatiful sound. I was at a meeting in San Diego one time when I walked outside the meeting room and found one of the more interesting docs out there playing on a well tuned grand he'd found. He was very good.

Good thing about the piano room, nailing it up to a ceiling would have ruined the finish.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> @bryansong That explains it. Do you or your wife play? A live piano makes the most beatiful sound. I was at a meeting in San Diego one time when I walked outside the meeting room and found one of the more interesting docs out there playing on a well tuned grand he'd found. He was very good.
> 
> Good thing about the piano room, nailing it up to a ceiling would have ruined the finish.


I use to play but haven't lately, I should do it more. I'm from a family of musicians. Our children too lessons and occasionally one daughter will sit down and play. Now the young grandchildren play with it a little and I'll play something for them. I'm sure grandma will insist on getting lessons when they get older.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

bryansong said:


> I use to play but haven't lately, I should do it more. I'm from a family of musicians. Our children too lessons and occasionally one daughter will sit down and play. Now the young grandchildren play with it a little and I'll play something for them. I'm sure grandma will insist on getting lessons when they get older.


My daughter is engaged to a musician. He happens to be blind, and his guitar work is studio quality. They have a trio and perform with local groups, including opening for tribute musicians that the local promoter brings to town. My daughter sings rather well. She now runs my consulting business, so the music is a sideline, but she sure enjoys performing.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> My daughter is engaged to a musician. He happens to be blind, and his guitar work is studio quality. They have a trio and perform with local groups, including opening for tribute musicians that the local promoter brings to town. My daughter sings rather well. She now runs my consulting business, so the music is a sideline, but she sure enjoys performing.


That's nice Tom, you probably love to hear her sing.
I am a singer too but did most of my singing in church or Christian music. I did get to sing for my two daughter's weddings so that was a treat for me.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@bryansong A really good friend of mine lives in Charlotte and sings in the Charlotte Symphony Choir and also in his church. He just married a woman who sings opera and performs all over the country. She is a very happy lady. Oddly enough, another lady I've known for decades recently married a tenor who sings opera. Music has only recently become interesting, since I got the latest in hearing aids. These have a tiny speaker that goes into the ear with the receiver and electronics behind the ear. I can understand lyrics again after nearly 40 years of not understanding a word. Really nice.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> @bryansong A really good friend of mine lives in Charlotte and sings in the Charlotte Symphony Choir and also in his church. He just married a woman who sings opera and performs all over the country. She is a very happy lady. Oddly enough, another lady I've known for decades recently married a tenor who sings opera. Music has only recently become interesting, since I got the latest in hearing aids. These have a tiny speaker that goes into the ear with the receiver and electronics behind the ear. I can understand lyrics again after nearly 40 years of not understanding a word. Really nice.


Tom, I hope you protect your hearing when you're working in the shop. I am glad you are now enjoying music through your new hearing aids.

I too have a hearing issue, I'm Single Sided Deaf. It's my right ear and grew up not hearing on the right side and never being able to tell sound direction as well as I couldn't hear stereo.
10 years ago I had implant surgery and had a BAHA hearing implant
installed behind my right ear. I could always hear well with my left ear so I did enjoy music and sing but like you I had a hard time understanding the lyrics. The fidelity sound of audio equipment has come quite a long way in my 60 years here and I find that using earbud head phones I can really understand what's being said far better than before.
Now back to the BAHA, I don't hook up head phones to it and in fact I still only hear one channel of the music but I can hear my surrounding so much better. With only 1 working cochlea there is no way to tell sound direction but that's Ok, I still have a better hearing life than I had with my first 50 years.

Thanks for sharing that with me,

Bryan


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

bryansong said:


> Tom, I hope you protect your hearing when you're working in the shop. I am glad you are now enjoying music through your new hearing aids.
> ....Thanks for sharing that with me,
> Bryan


I am very careful about my hearing. Keep several muffler style protectors handy, almost never run a machine without protection.

My hearing further deteriorated with radiation and chemo for throat cancer about 8 years ago. Also found out that the chemical they use for "contrast" during scanning is also ototoxic. At least both ears work. We seem to have some stuff in common. Good for us.

Tom


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