# help with triton 2 1/4 router



## regiowood (Feb 9, 2012)

hello all.. 
I've reading from some time ago this forum, and finally i decided to got for my 1rst router and build my router table. 

Well I just finished router table and was thinking to use it with my MOF001KC 2-1/4 HP triton router, I got it from ebay and according the vendor this was a display unit "never user". When I receive it everything seems brand new, but now that I was doing some tests I notice that the mechanism to raise the router from above the table is not "enough strong" to lift the router when it is placed under the table. 

If I place the router on a table (not carrying its own weight with the plate) , and twist the crank handle works well (low and raise),, but not when it placed under the router table.

I'm using a benchdog router plate, remove the spring from the router,, drill the hole for the crank handle.. 

I would appreciate if some of you can help,, not sure if im doing something wrong or is a failure in the router..



thanks...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Play with the knob on the side of the router. 

==



regiowood said:


> hello all..
> I've reading from some time ago this forum, and finally i decided to got for my 1rst router and build my router table.
> 
> Well I just finished router table and was thinking to use it with my MOF001KC 2-1/4 HP triton router, I got it from ebay and according the vendor this was a display unit "never user". When I receive it everything seems brand new, but now that I was doing some tests I notice that the mechanism to raise the router from above the table is not "enough strong" to lift the router when it is placed under the table.
> ...


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

My TRB001 seems to be working OK.

I have no problem using the winder.

Check to see if your depth stops are not in the way?


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

The top side crank is best used for small adjustments.
Use the round handle on the side to adjust 'close enough'.
then use the crank to lower or raise it to just right.

Doing it this way will save on unneeded wear on the crank gears.


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## cedarwood (Feb 3, 2012)

Also when using mounted in a table you should remove the plunge spring. This could be why it is easy when the right way up as the weight of the motor is helping the adjuster and when upside down in the table is working against the winder.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

cedarwood said:


> Also when using mounted in a table you should remove the plunge spring. This could be why it is easy when the right way up as the weight of the motor is helping the adjuster and when upside down in the table is working against the winder.


He said he did that.


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## Bigjet747 (Mar 9, 2011)

Nice build of your router table. Triton used plastic worm gears in the lift and it has been a problem. They have replaced the plastic gear with a metal gear. I called Triton and they expressed mail the new gear to me for free. I can't post a link yet but do a google search, Dismantling the Triton MOF001 2¼HP Router. You will get a step by step guide to installing the gear. Good luck luck


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## regiowood (Feb 9, 2012)

thanks to all for your comments...

*jw2170*,, I'll do that again. (I guess already do it,, but will do a double check)..

*bigjet*, thanks,, being my first router table I guess is not to bad, the fence do not convince me yet,, Ill check some posts to make and upgrade or build a new one. I agree with you, seems the problem is in the gears, when mounted in the table, if I push up the router just a little,, the crank handle low and raise well from above the table.

*rwl7532*, yes I thought that,, but at least want to know if its the router or just a human-ware problem ( me !! )

regards..


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

I have my Triton mounted where my only access to it is from where I stand. Mounting the router is somewhat problematic as I want easy access to the switch and the lock. But that means any fence will be to the right of the bit and not behind the bit. Otherwise, the access hole for the crank is conflicting with the fence.

If the fence is behind the bit, then the router must be oriented so the crank access hole is in the front (and to the right) of the bit. This puts the lock in a hard to reach spot.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

rwl7532 said:


> The top side crank is best used for small adjustments.
> Use the round handle on the side to adjust 'close enough'.
> then use the crank to lower or raise it to just right.
> 
> Doing it this way will save on unneeded wear on the crank gears.



This is also how I do it with both my Triton routers. I actually coarse adjust a little bit high and then lower only with the fine adjuster.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

jw2170 said:


> This is also how I do it with both my Triton routers. I actually coarse adjust a little bit high and then lower only with the fine adjuster.


Great minds think alike.


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## Michael H (Aug 15, 2009)

Sounds like you have a stripped plastic worm gear. I had this happen to my 2-1/4 hp Triton, mounted in my table twice. First time I called, they sent a plastic replacement, same as one that was in the router. About a year later, that plastic gear stripped out too. Called again and this time they sent a metal gear. Been in the table ever since (about 3 years now) and it works flawlessly. HTC products used to be the USA distributor for Triton. I know it has changed hands, so I'm not sure who to call now. This is a know issue with the older 2-1/4 plunge router and they should replace the worm drive free of charge. The 3 hp and newer 2-1/4 hp routers now all have a metal worm drive. Find out who distributes them and give them a call.
FYI, this is the step by step guide to disassembling the router and replacing the worm drive.
Dismantling the Triton MOF001 2¼HP Router


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## Michael H (Aug 15, 2009)

Also, I use the winder handle above the table exclusively for raising and lowering the router and don't have any issues with the metal worm gear. I use it almost daily and it works fine. I think it would be a hassle for me to get under my enclosed table to use the handle coarse adjustment. This router was designed with table mounting in mind and meant to be wound up and down from above. The metal gear should solve any issues you might have.


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## regiowood (Feb 9, 2012)

*Michael H*, I appreciate all you info,, I guess KREG is now the main distributor in US.

I'll let you know the progress with this issue...

Thanks again
Mario


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## Hughb (Jan 9, 2013)

Apologies that my first post is a question, but I have been reading lots on this forum and eventually went for the Dakota table and Triton MOF001.
I am about to mount it in the table and am a bit confused as to how best to position it it on the mounting plate to use the above table height adjuster. Some seem to mount it at 8.00 o'clock, others at 4.00 o'clock.
Any advice would be welcome, if it helps I plan to leave it switched on and use a no volt switch to control the on/off function.

Thanks

Hugh


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Westfield said:


> Apologies that my first post is a question, but I have been reading lots on this forum and eventually went for the Dakota table and Triton MOF001.
> I am about to mount it in the table and am a bit confused as to how best to position it it on the mounting plate to use the above table height adjuster. Some seem to mount it at 8.00 o'clock, others at 4.00 o'clock.
> Any advice would be welcome, if it helps I plan to leave it switched on and use a no volt switch to control the on/off function.
> 
> ...


Welcome to the forum, Hugh.

I have mine (TRB001) set so that I can reach the on/off switch. I adjust the height first and then the fence so position of the winder is not an issue.

I am puzzled as to how you are going to change cutters if you "leave it switched on".

Doesn't the switch need to go into the off position in order for the collet lock to function?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

"Doesn't the switch need to go into the off position in order for the collet lock to function?"

NO,you can push the button in at any point to lock the shaft..

==


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## Hughb (Jan 9, 2013)

Thanks for the info, I will be able to still get to the switch, for cutter changes, if need be.
So position of the height adjuster handle is not critical if I position the fence after height adjustment, that makes it easier.


Hugh


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## regiowood (Feb 9, 2012)

I agree with *jw2170*, first the height, then the fence... 

But *Westfield* ... what you said sounds very logical, maybe at 4.00 o'clock position will do the things easier... Being my first router table I choose the traditional position. 

About my problem no news so far.. :sad: I've email twice to Triton Support to ask for the metal gear replacement.. but no answer received...


Regards.


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## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

The router will need to fitted skew to the front edge of the router table.

So it's best with the winder/height adjustment towards the front as this is used most often.

The left side (switch) should be mounted with the skew towards the back as you only have to get two fingers in there to slide the cover open and then to flip the switch.

You don't want bruised knuckles when adjusting the height.

I thought about getting an above table winding mechanism but using the ratchet handle is so fast that I can't see how I could improve my speed with a winding handle.

Anyway good luck.


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## wilsond (Aug 17, 2009)

Triton originally used plastic for the worm drive to lift the router. They have now replaced that plastic piece with metal. If you contact Triton directly, they will send you the metal piece and a link to the installation instructions. I can't tell you the cost, because Triton replaced the part free of charge as part of the warranty.


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## distrbd (Oct 8, 2009)

wilsond said:


> Triton originally used plastic for the worm drive to lift the router. They have now replaced that plastic piece with metal. If you contact Triton directly, they will send you the metal piece and a link to the installation instructions. I can't tell you the cost, because Triton replaced the part free of charge as part of the warranty.


If any one is looking for the contact # here's some info:
contact :Nordis Distribution
phone#855-881-5550 ask for Richard ,the worm gear part #TRA 378(for router MOF001)
http://www.tritontools.com/Images/Products/media/330085_Schm.pdf
If you need to order for a different model:
Triton Tools | Routers | MOF001 | Dual Mode Precision Plunge Router 1400W
The cost of shipping was $12,they need your credit card # to first open an account with them .the part itself was free.
HTH
Regards.
Ken.


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## CR1 (Aug 11, 2011)

*Pull the spring out*

Remove the spring. That'll lessen the effort needed to crank it. 
It'll also prevent the gears from stripping.


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