# Mortiser Acquired



## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

So after much debate and trial I found, rather it found me (thanks camel camel camel) and I ended up with Powermatic's PM701 bench mortiser. Typically it sells for $599 but I was made aware of a price drop and at $405 w/Prime shipping I jumped. $195 discount easily covered the cost of the chisel set. That evening I was checking and the price was up to $500. 

Anyway the hollow chisels came the following day and were set aside. The mortiser was due the next day and was to be delivered by Amazon. Sure enough on Friday morning I checked on the order because I was advised via email it would be a day late and it showed as being in route that day for delivery. In fact the tracking on Amazon actually shows the movement of their truck updating every few minutes it seemed. And it was indeed delivered in 2 days having been shipped form California. This was a sold and shipped by Amazon item.

So after getting the 92 pound box in the shop and unboxed I put this baby together. I quickly decided this baby needed a dedicated rolling cabinet although one person can pick it up although it's a bit awkward and very heavy. You young bucks can have a go at it I guess. I assembled this on my adjustable height workbench to give it a quick checkout. 

I was amazed how sharp the chisels were and the mortiser comes with a cone sharpener. Assembly was quick, straight forward, and easy. I used the 1/4" mortise bit to test on a laid out mortise location on some 1" soft maple scrap. Marking out the mortise I started with a cut at each end and then spaced the cuts leaving about a 1/4 between to ensure the hollow chisel bit is biting into wood on all 4 sides. When those were done I went back and did the places in between. This left me with a nice clean mortise. I rotated the wood 90 degree and made a second intersecting mortise as if I were installing a skirt board on an end table. Nice clean intersection. The great thing is that while it does take a bit of effort it really isn't much more than if I were drilling.

What I also came to realize is that I want a sliding table to clamp the wood to. What I found ready to use online was either too small, too cheaply made, or just not fit for this. I then looked for plans and found this one from WoodSmith  The hardware will set you back a few bucks but it looks large enough and sturdy enough to last a lifetime. 

And with cutting into walnut, cherry, oak, and maple I'd like to make accurate cuts without making a lot of scrap. This should be an interesting project. So far finding the parts and pieces means multiple vendors but most of it should be here this coming week. Problem with living in the country is nothing is nearby which is why we live in the country.......


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

I should mention that the sliding table I'm going to build isn't necessary but I wanted a more controllable and accurate means of making these cuts. This is something that will make it very easily repeatable. The Hold down that comes with the PM701 does work but is a bit clumsy to use, at least for me. It also doesn't give an easy way to move the work in a controlled means being that it is not a smooth move. 

Maybe it would be so if I waxed the table a bit but still not nearly as easy as the sliding table will allow where I can make movements in both axis very concisely and in very small increments if needed. I've already thought of a few minor improvements I can make on this table but will build it as is and then see if they warrant any changes.

Guess I'm looking for about the same control I had on the old milling machines. Fortunately I have access to both a milling machine and a metal lathe through a good friend fairly close by (30 minutes). I'll post pictures of the project as it progresses.....


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Very nice, lucky you.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

nice score...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Enjoy!

"Problem with living in the country is nothing is nearby which is why we live in the country..."
Words to live by!!!


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Nice score, Steve...

Got a question for you...what accounts for the round cuts in the side of the mortise in your picture...?

Do you have the chisel opening left/right or in/out...?

I'm real close to getting the same machine...(closing is the 17th - new shop)


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Terrific buy on a great machine. Those mortises really look good and the edges are crisp. I'm with you about the importance of a proper stand.


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## gdonham1 (Oct 31, 2011)

You may know about this old trick bit if not here it is.

When you insert the hollow chisel put a dime between the stop and the top of the hollow chisel. Insert your drill bit and let it just touch the bottom of the hollow chisel. Tighten up the drill bit. Then loosen the set screw for the hollow chisel and move it up till the top of the chisel mount touches the bottom of the mortiser. This gives you enough clearance for chips to exit the chisel and not heat up and burn your bit. 

Occasionally use a very fine diamond stone on the four outside flat edges of the hollow chisel. Just a few strokes. Then they make a cone shaped diamond home to polish the inside cone of the hollow chisel. Hone when ever you feel a lot of resistance.

When cutting your mortise, start with the two outside edges to get a nice clean mortise. Then start on one side and drill only about half the distance of the bit width and progress to the other end. So if you have a 1/2" mortise bit then step over about a 1/4" inch each stroke. This takes a little more time but you get a better cut and a straighter mortise.

When you insert a new chisel in the mortiser, leave the drill bit out. Use a ruler to square the bit side up with the fence. Since the fence is fixed you should adjust the hollow chisel. Use the dime trick from above. After your get it square and insert the drill bit, remove the dime and recheck the squareness to the fence and tighten the hollow chisel. 

With my advise you will be come a real chiseler, and can be called a dastardly chiseler.


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## Bstrom (Jan 2, 2020)

gdonham1 said:


> You may know about this old trick bit if not here it is.
> 
> When you insert the hollow chisel put a dime between the stop and the top of the hollow chisel. Insert your drill bit and let it just touch the bottom of the hollow chisel. Tighten up the drill bit. Then loosen the set screw for the hollow chisel and move it up till the top of the chisel mount touches the bottom of the mortiser. This gives you enough clearance for chips to exit the chisel and not heat up and burn your bit.
> 
> ...


That is a very good deal on the Powermatic - I paid full price but it'll be worth every penny in the long run. Easiest tool to use in my shop.

The Powermatic comes with two integrated spacers for both large and small chisel bit - you don't need a dime - keep the change!

You can also align the square bit with your stock in place too - it's how I do it on my Powermatic as I also check the plunge along the layout pencil layout along the workpiece. The important thing is to get the fence square overall so the mortice isn't 'stepped' as you go down the cut and creating a 'twist' with the insertion of the tenon.. I've had no trouble getting mine to work and ad a full 1/8" to the depth of the plunge to accommodate the waste that won't come out from the bit end. I make a centered tenon first on my radial arm saw and pare the mortise to fit.

I also pay attention to the tension on both the horizontal rollers and the vertical stop to create a snug but movable fit on the workpiece. It can be done with practice and is part of getting clean accurate cuts. Plunging into solid wood by spacing the cuts before cleaning out the intermittent spaces is also a good idea. It's all in the instructions.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Nickp said:


> Nice score, Steve...
> 
> Got a question for you...what accounts for the round cuts in the side of the mortise in your picture...?
> 
> ...


One of the instructional videos I had watched said to make the end cuts and then leaving space between them make the next cuts. It also said to have the open side of the hollow chisel positioned so the chips went into the already drilled 1st holes so I worked right to left and had it facing right. Now watching several more I see it facing toward the operator which makes more sense to me as most of the waste is outside the mortise. All went back when finished and made light fast passes to finish.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

As Brian mentioned the PM701 has two spacers in place that swing in/out and the upper one is the spacing they use for the chisel to get the drill bit properly positioned. After the bit is tightened in the chuck then you loosen the chisel holder, move fully up, and lock down to be in the user position. On videos I had watched from before this I saw both nickels/dimes being used, not together but either.

As for the test cuts they were quick and simple just to test the ease of cut. I had done nothing more than move the fence in place and did not check for square as you normally would or is that wood? 

Once I get the materials to build the sliding table I'll get that made and then determine the size of the rolling cabinet for this setup. The sliding table will be clamped to the cabinet as I intend to use it at the drill press as well. Only issue getting the parts right now is the length. I can get the 3/4" 1018 steel rod in 20' length about 1.5 hours away from home for $93.60 which is almost double of what I need or I have to order it and pay almost twice the cost of the steel in shipping.......


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Nice new toy, Steve, and Christmas is long gone!


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## Pro4824 (Oct 17, 2015)

That's a great machine! I always wanted one but I went with a cnc. $6,000 and I still can't cut a square hole!! 😉 
The sliding table is gonna be a great addition. 👍


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## Bstrom (Jan 2, 2020)

sreilly said:


> One of the instructional videos I had watched said to make the end cuts and then leaving space between them make the next cuts. It also said to have the open side of the hollow chisel positioned so the chips went into the already drilled 1st holes so I worked right to left and had it facing right. Now watching several more I see it facing toward the operator which makes more sense to me as most of the waste is outside the mortise. All went back when finished and made light fast passes to finish.


You got it! Really a very simple tool to use once you get your bearings. Really speeds up a lot of work. I also bought a set of pretty cheap set of bits to start with and they work fine in soft and hard species - just sharpen them up until they can cut *you* easily and it's all good. You got a great deal on yours, BTW.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Nice score, Steve...
> 
> *Got a question for you...what accounts for the round cuts in the side of the mortise in your picture...?*
> 
> ...


I was wondering the same..
and why all the tearing... dull chisels???


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Steve..
did you hog out your mortise before hand????


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## timbrframr (Nov 2, 2019)

Great score, hope you have fun with it. Congrats!

B


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## Bstrom (Jan 2, 2020)

Stick486 said:


> I was wondering the same..
> and why all the tearing... dull chisels???


I'm going to guess at some of the potential causes, as I have had to deal with the same issues:

1) In this case, the bit 'square' alignment is off - or there's movement in sliding the piece along- resulting in stepping in the cuts. Takes a little practice and some test holes to get that sorted out before you commit to the workpiece. Not a huge issue as you pare the mortise some anyway and the shoulder hides it all - but, a twisted opening will twist the tenon - not good. All in the setup.
2) Soft woods tear pretty easily - set as shallow a bit>chisel gap as you can to keep this under control.
3) Dull chisels and bits will make some fuzz - you have to clean out the mortise too as all the shavings don't exit the bit, especially at the bottom where the bit is all that's cutting. I add 1/8th" to the desired mortise depth to minimize cleanout.
4) Boring speed matters too - a nice smooth, slow bore will keep the workpiece in place, etc. Until you figure out how to use the clamp and rollers it can be a tad clumsy but one you've go it things go very well.

Hope that helps...


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## dayzman (Nov 29, 2009)

very, very nice. Love those Powermatic tools.
Have fun with it.
Charles


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Sorry guys late on getting back to this. This was a very fast and not well executed test. I was looking mainly at the chisel sharpness and how much pressure it would take to make the cut. I quickly made the 1st cut and followed with the others not checking square at all. Heck I didn't even check depth. I had this old piece of soft maple from a previous screw up on the bench so I just used it. I normally would have checked to make sure the bit was square to the wood, the fence was square, and the depth of cut set but as I was simply testing the bit I didn't do any of this. It was quick and simple. 

I'll go back and do a proper test after finishing the sliding table. I've got a ton of work to get this thing done properly but should prove worthy in the end.


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## Bstrom (Jan 2, 2020)

sreilly said:


> Sorry guys late on getting back to this. This was a very fast and not well executed test. I was looking mainly at the chisel sharpness and how much pressure it would take to make the cut. I quickly made the 1st cut and followed with the others not checking square at all. Heck I didn't even check depth. I had this old piece of soft maple from a previous screw up on the bench so I just used it. I normally would have checked to make sure the bit was square to the wood, the fence was square, and the depth of cut set but as I was simply testing the bit I didn't do any of this. It was quick and simple.
> 
> I'll go back and do a proper test after finishing the sliding table. I've got a ton of work to get this thing done properly but should prove worthy in the end.


Makes sense now.

I forgot to mention that the plastic fence locks are a little squeamish and require some care in getting set firmly. The rollers aren’t an issue but you can’t have anything moving around once you start - just another consideration. 

Also, the height limiter can move if you push hard down too hard against it. I watch as I approach the stop and halt as soon as I feel resistance. Another ‘skill’ needed on this tool.

You’ll get it sorted quickly enough and will be raving about your results.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Thanks Brian for the tips. I've started acquiring the parts and pieces needed to build the sliding table and one item was a neoprene tip for the clamp. It appears to be a 5/8" bolt but as I looked and thought about it I got the feeling this wasn't the better solution. So I looked at some soft maple scraps I have from another project, yet to be finished, and thought of this instead. The neoprene tip had less surface than a dime and while the clamp is rated ate 1499 pounds I was thinking a bit more surface couldn't hurt so I decided to try the following. More surface (1.5" x 2-3/16") and the bolt head is below the surface of the block. I took the nut and tightened on the back side and then the bolt screws onto the clamp. Seems more clamping surface should be better at least in my mind and the additional cost was nothing.


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## Bstrom (Jan 2, 2020)

sreilly said:


> Thanks Brian for the tips. I've started acquiring the parts and pieces needed to build the sliding table and one item was a neoprene tip for the clamp. It appears to be a 5/8" bolt but as I looked and thought about it I got the feeling this wasn't the better solution. So I looked at some soft maple scraps I have from another project, yet to be finished, and thought of this instead. The neoprene tip had less surface than a dime and while the clamp is rated ate 1499 pounds I was thinking a bit more surface couldn't hurt so I decided to try the following. More surface (1.5" x 2-3/16") and the bolt head is below the surface of the block. I took the nut and tightened on the back side and then the bolt screws onto the clamp. Seems more clamping surface should be better at least in my mind and the additional cost was nothing.


Where is this clamp being utilized - I'm not catching your purpose for it. Also, the medullary grain on those tiny parts is very pretty. Can't wait to see your application. Post some pix-in-use, OK?


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Well this table is still under construction as I learn a few new things. The plans called for the table top to be laminated on both top and bottom so I picked up a sheet of Formica laminate from Lowe's and a can of gel adhesive but was rather surprised when I read the safety section on this DAP adhesive. I decided it wasn't worth the fumes and issues using this stuff and took a piece of scrape laminate and used my Titebond II to glue it to a scrap piece of the maple. After a few hours I looked at it and it appears fine. Is there an issue with using Titebond II to laminate this plywood surface?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

In order for the glue to set the water has to migrate away from the joint. In wood it eventually evaporates away but with laminate it has to gradually either work through to the other side or across the surface of the joint and out the edges. One of my uncles has used Weldbond successfully but he put glue on both surfaces and waited until the glue had dried some first. 

It was a Franklin glue company rep that explained that to me when we were discussing their melamine glue. It will work well to glue small pieces but that was the issue with gluing larger pieces. That trapped water in the panel could cause warping since it is on one side only.

Personally I don't intend to ever use another DAP product as long as I live. Both their contact cement and their sink and tub caulking are crap. I have to replace a section of the backsplash behind my kitchen sink because the DAP I used broke the seal on the joint and water got into the mdf backer.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

cherryville chuck said:


> personally i don't intend to ever use another dap product as long as i live. Both their contact cement and their sink and tub caulking are crap.


you got that right...


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Thanks guys. In case I haven't done this yet here is a link to the plans I'm using https://www.woodsmithplans.com/plan/precision-mortising-jig/

Tomorrow I go to a friends to use the milling machine and metal lathe to cut the rods, drill the holes, and reduce the Acme screw rod handle end down to a smooth 1/2" diameter to fit inside the collar of the handles. Chuck's metal tools (my buddy) will make life a bit easier for these parts including cutting the fence angle. Looking forward to getting this finished and start cutting accurate mortises. And yes, I realize this isn't totally necessary but I think seeing how I didn't go with the Powermatic standing model that has the sliding table this project makes it a good compromise. I'll post pictures soon of the parts and assembly.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

An update on this project. I got sidelined with an earlier project that needed to be finished.....literally finished. Seems I have this issue when it comes to sanding and putting a finish on a project. I always said the perfect wife likes to sand and apply finish.....mine is just super great ......but not perfect so it's up to me. So now I'm sanding and applying finish to the 3-in-1 stand and working on the sliding table in between coats which actually are going pretty fast. 

The top coat finish says under ideal conditions you can wait 2-4 hours between coats and mine is dry within 45 minutes to an hour. The shop is at 45% RH and 69.8 degrees which seems to play very well with this finish so not as bad as I had thought. But it also means I'm jumping back and forth which the sciatica really doesn't care for after a few hours on this concrete floor. 30 years later and it's still a pain in my thigh.....

Anyway here are some pictures showing the bones of this sliding table. What I need to do it take the stationary rods out and drill through the centers so the #8 x 3" screw can go through the rod to hold in place. The stationary rods are the ones on the outside moving pieces. The base box in the center the rods and Acme screw pass through. In the Centering Close Up photo you can see there is a large hole and smaller hole where the bushing and Acme nuts passes through the wall. The larger hole is where the epoxy putty need to be applied to hold those centered and in place. I've never used epoxy putty so this should be fun.

I need to do a bit of sanding, clean the threads on the Acme rods but I don't think I'll put a finish on this. I don't really see a need as it will be a stationary setup. I've lifted that mortiser several times already and due to its shape it's too heavy to lift often as there aren't any real good places to grip it. And I'm getting old.....I still need to build the cabinet for it and it too will be on wheels. Now to see how to align these rods and use the epoxy.....

Almost forgot, not sure that wood end on the clamp is a good idea yet but at minimum I'll need to taper the wood contact side to meet it squarely and if that doesn't prove effective I'll get the rubber tip the plans call for. I wasn't able to find one that fit that M12 bolt pattern. 
Back to the finish, I did put a coat on the fence and will add (3-5) several more as it will be in contact with the wood being worked on. What isn't shown in the pictures is the iron angle that is used as the old down. That's at my buddy's being cut and then I'll need to prime and paint that. Got a nice Hunter Green to contrast with the Powermatic yellow. OK it was on sale........


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## Bstrom (Jan 2, 2020)

Extremely neat workmanship on your part. Mr. Reilly. I envy your attention to detail. Let us know how effective this design was for you, OK?


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Excellent table build...can't wait to "see" it in action...


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

One thing I learned last night is that using the epoxy putty with an oral syringe is difficult at best. I cut the end to give a bit more of an opening but even still the design of the syringe wasn't intended for shooting thinker than peanut butter through it. One thing that did help was putting a 3/4" washer on the tube side to help give a larger area to have your fingers grip the syringe while the palm pushers the plunger. But you only have about 30 minutes to work with it before it becomes too thick and getting it into the tube is a bit tricky as well. 

Now that last nights epoxy is set I took the rods out and can better get to the nuts and bushings to finish the epoxy part and clean it up a bit. That is a learning experience in itself. 

Sunday I'll take the rods back to my friend and use the milling machine to drill the rods. The base is where the bushings and Acme nuts get epoxied in place. There are no bushings on the X/Y outer pieces and the rods simply are flush with the wood and drilled where the screws holds both the wood and bar. Uisng 3" #8 screws places the screw through the 3/4" top plate and through the drilled rod. Seems like overkill as I just don't think there's much pressure there at all. I guess better safe than sorry.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

So it appears I didn't answer Brian's question about the clamp and that's to hold the wood against the fence. As you are moving the entire top from right to left and the base back to forward the wood itself becomes stationary and the clamp ensures that along with the fence.

So these are the pre-finish pictures. I'm mixed on just what to use to finish the table or use anything at all. At minimum I'd probably use the General Top Coat I used on the 3-in-1 but not near as many coats. The table top is laminated on both sides and the fence and clamp block all have Top Coat on them. The base and other plywood have no finish. The base doesn't see much short of the front and back along with the side blocks holding the table. I still have some cleanup from the epoxy that the Dremel tool should make short work of with a sanding disk. That epoxy putty is some messy stuff but the sanding disk makes it into a very fine powder. 

I also need to paint the metal fence part maybe after a small spot weld to make up for the too high hole that doesn't capture the head on the angle to prevent it from turning while tightening. I've got a can of Rust-Oleum paint and primer in one to give it a better finish in Hunter Green. So put any finish on the maple parts and leave the plywood alone or other suggestions.......I will be sanding the maple to clean up the marking marks.


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