# What kind of wood glue are you using?



## volunteers (Mar 4, 2011)

I use glue to joint wood for both inside/outside.
Right now I am using Gorilla Wood Glue, bought from HomeDepot. I think the glue is OK, but it does have problem with water.
So what other brand have you used to recommend? thanks.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

volunteers said:


> I use glue to joint wood for both inside/outside.
> Right now I am using Gorilla Wood Glue, bought from HomeDepot. I think the glue is OK, but it does have problem with water.
> So what other brand have you used to recommend? thanks.


Hi will, Try Titebond III, also available at home depot.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Titebond II for inside projects


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Titebond 11 by a country mile...great for inside jobs....hint.....dont buy the large one if you live in hot areas as it goes off after a couple of years. Cheaper to pay a bit more and use the smaller for longer life...........AL


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

volunteers said:


> I use glue to joint wood for both inside/outside.
> Right now I am using Gorilla Wood Glue, bought from HomeDepot. I think the glue is OK, but it does have problem with water.
> So what other brand have you used to recommend? thanks.


Use the white gorila glue it will not foam. The syurp looking will foam on the wood. It will not clug up the belt tho. Don't get the syurp kind on skin it will not come off. The white i don't know because i don't get it on my hand's. I never had eather type have water problum's. When it is dry it will not break down with any solvent or water. I use the white when i have time to wait. You only need to glue 1 side of the board. on the other side wipe a rag with water on it that will help the glue to dry. If i an in a hurry i use tite bond it will dry in 1 hr. enough to work with. I get it from Ace Hardware. the only place that carries it that i know of. my 2 cents


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

Another vote for Titebond.

Mike


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Titebond 3 is good and has water resistance. The best outside glue I have found is a can of fiberglass resin for car body repairs. Totally waterproof, will fill gaps, and is 4 to 5 times stronger than water based wood glues. However, it stinks and is not nice to use.


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

I use Titebond , but never thought of using fiberglass resin,, might be a alternative when gluing something outside...


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## XavierG (Mar 19, 2011)

Another Titebond III user, although I also like Lee Valley Cabinetmaker's Glue 2002 GF.


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

Titebond III - outside and inside.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I use 'Pattex Wood Super 3' for everyday wood joining. It's a water resistant PVA glue.
Sometimes I use an expanding polyurethane glue for outdoors or if there are some loose joins on something I'm renovating.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Tight Bond III, works for me.


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Titebond III or if it's a big glue and outside - then it's Cascamite.

If you want it to look good use epoxy resin with microballoon fillers. This not the same as polyester resin (fibre glass resin), it doesn't stink, has a longer pot life. BUT, and it can be a big but, it needs UV protection as it will degrade very quickly in direct sunlight.

I seal my canoes & boats with epoxy resin followed up with yacht varnish. I build with relatively low cost exterior ply (not marine ply) epoxy and varnish has yet to let me down.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I've not been happy with Gorilla Glue when I've used it, all for outside projects. It's too slippery when wet, allowing the clamped joints to move while they are drying. Also too much mess from foaming as it cures. I use Titebond II for inside projects and Titebond III for outside work. I was using Titebond before I tried Gorilla Glue and have gone back to Titebond. It's shelf time is even longer than Gorilla Glue.

Charley


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Whilst I've never used Titebond, it looks like the yellow Alphatic resin which I used to use but because it penetrates into the wood, one has to be very careful to remove every trace of excess or a non removable water mark results. A few years ago I became aware of the Canadian made Weldbond which is white but dries transparent and is very water resistant. Two pieces of 2" x !" lap jointed will leave the joint intact and break the wood if held in one hand and swung repeatedly against the paving. Another thing that I like about it is that it goes off quickly.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

What ! You don't use aquadhere Harry ?
I thought every Australian used aquadhere.
I don't think I ever used anything but when I lived in Australia.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Yep, when I want a slow drying glue which I do occasionally, I do use Aquadhere


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## TA455HO (Mar 30, 2011)

I've had good results with Titebond II and III. I've used both quite a bit with dowels (DowelMax) and it's stronger than the surrounding wood from the stress tests I've done.


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## barking spider (Dec 26, 2010)

I use Titebond 3 for just about everything. I do use Gorilla glue once in a while, but it really is messy. I used 2 part epoxy glue when I made some doors for an outside shed.
I do't make many outside projects, so the glue issue hasn't really come up much.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Titus A Duxass said:


> Titebond III or if it's a big glue and outside - then it's Cascamite.


D3 (cross-linking) PVA for exterior and interior use, which is similar to Titebnond 2 but more readily available in Europe. Like you I use Cascamite (plastic resin or UF = urea formaldehyde) glue for exterior wherever possible but requies exact joinery work and the assembly needs to be in cramp for 24 hours. Still, it was good enough for the "wooden wonder" (Mosquito aircraft) it should be good enough for me!

I do sometimes use PU (polyurethane) glues such as Gorilla glue for quick jobs where I need to get the cramps off quickly, for example in order to complete stuff to a deadline. The major disadvantages are that it foams if inadequately cramped up (or if the joints are poor), it won't cure in very cold conditions, the foaming squeeze-out can be difficult to remove, the joint stength seems generally lower than a cross-linked PVA and if it gets onto your skin it won't come off easily. It turns the surface of the skin black and it can take a couple of days for the most stubborn bits to loosen up (by natural skin growth/perspiraton) to be removed with a strong soap (such as carbolic), hot water and a pumice stone. I sometimes use the white "stick" PU which can be delivered by a caulking gun, but poor availability/price make it only an occasional choice for me. Main advantage over the runny PU as others have said is that it doesn't foam (although it still turns the skin black)

Can't really be bothered with epoxy. Very messy stuff and extremely expensive. To date I haven't come across anything which required it, but then I don't build boats

Phil


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

TiteBond III for outdoor projects, II for just about all indoor/furniture, TB Dark when using walnut, Elmers when the grandson wants to play. I've used epoxy and have to agree, a bit pricey. I will use it for magnets and the like.


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## jcr3 (Mar 12, 2011)

Titebond 2 for most projects, but Titebond 3 recently as it allows usage of down to 45 degrees F, which I needed this winter since my shop isnt heated. (most other wood glue brands I checked state 55 degree F min)


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

Titebond II or III mostly; epoxy for pen tubes (CA for the finish); contact every once in a while, and Gorilla Glue (Foaming stuff) when needed.


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## sourdough (Jan 31, 2010)

Titebond III all the way. The big hairy animal glue didn't impress me at all. And neither does his tape.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

I have to say, Gorilla is on My list, I disagree with Harry, If I do a bad job, I want to be able to get it apart!  I don't ever throw it tho::


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