# Best Router



## Kraft'r (Jun 13, 2009)

This question has probably been asked a thousand times but here we go again. A while back I posted the question of which is the best all around router out there. I recieved an almost 75% response in favor of the Bosch 1619EVS.

I did purchase one and I loved the way it ran for about 20 hrs (if that). It started to run at half speed and seemed to spark a lot. Brushes are like new but no matter what I was routingit seemed to run rough and no power.

The problem is it only has approx. 20 hrs on it but it's 2 yrs old so the warranty been up for a while. I sent several emails to Bosch tech support for any suggestings they may have and the only message back is receipt of my email. Not once have I hear from their TS.

Which brings me to the forum again. I need a new router and would like to buy one suggested by the pro's. I do believe that I got a lemon the first time but based on Bosch's tech support response I will not even concider any of their products.

I will gladly accept any suggestions for a new router, I'm justy scared to pick one on my own without any good input.


Thanks, Joe Bones


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Where do you live and which Bosch service center did you take your router to for service?


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## wathman (Jul 16, 2009)

I just purchased a Bosch 1617 EVS yesterday, also after a lot of helpful input from this site, as well as other sources. I hope my first experience with Bosch doesn't end up as yours did.  

If repair truly isn't an option, it might be helpful to describe your requirements and usage habits. As I discovered during my research for a 2 1/4 HP kit, different manufacturers have different strengths and weaknesses, even when product specifications are nearly identical. Also, don't neglect the importance of feeling a tool in hand before deciding. The day I went to Lowes and handled the products from Bosch, DeWalt, and Porter Cable was the largest factor in my decision to go with Bosch. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to check out the Hitachi 2 1/4 kit as Lowes no longer carries it.

Since 3 1/4 HP routers seem to be a completely different breed of router, I can't offer a whole lot on which one of them is the best. I'm interested in hearing what the experts have to say on the subject since I may be in the market for one in the future. The more I learn about routing and woodworking in general, the more I find myself enjoying it.


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## Rutabagared (Jun 18, 2009)

Consider the Makita R1100 series. I've had mine for about 5 years and the performance has been outstanding.

Joe


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Joe Bones, the advice you got two years ago still holds true. If you are using the router less than 10 hours a year perhaps you are not familiar enough with the controls? Is your speed control turned for maximum RPM? Maybe you are storing the router in an extremely dirty or wet environment? Other than these things you may have a faulty speed controller. Bosch is very good about replacement of defective items, at times even out of warranty. Why did you not take the router in for service when the problem started? We try to help members as much as possible in dealing with companies.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

If you are going to buy a new one, take a good look at the Craftsman combo set. It gets very good reviews. 
Craftsman 2 hp Soft Start Fixed and Plunge Base Router w/Electronic Feedback, 11 amp

I have a Porter Cable 2.25hp combo set 893PK (which is now a 895PK) and love it. Not a single problem and I use it all the time.
Delta Machinery|Porter Cable Product Details for 2-1/4 HP (maximum Motor HP) Multi-Base Router Kit With Router Table Height Adjuster - Model # 895PK


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I have nothing but good to say for PC routers.

I have 5 PC routers and 1 Craftsman. The Craftsman is the oldest and hasen't been started for over 20 yrs. (I keep it for the memory, it routed my 1st waterbed frame and 3 card tables before it started making noise) the oldest PC is a 2hp D handle and it gets maybe 15 to 20 hrs a year, (sundecks, railings and posts) the 3hp plunge, 1997, ran in my RT and on site for 11 yrs. All of them are used throughout the yr., all still run strong.


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## lazybum (Jul 16, 2009)

my pc 100 is over 25 years old and is still one of my main "grapped" routers
My makita and hitachi plunges are well used too but the feel of the 100 is just great!


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## wathman (Jul 16, 2009)

lazybum said:


> my pc 100 is over 25 years old and is still one of my main "grapped" routers
> My makita and hitachi plunges are well used too but the feel of the 100 is just great!


For those of you with older routers that still work great after years of use as in the earlier Porter Cables, do you think the build quality is on par with the early generations? 25 years from now, do you think we would be able to say the same about Porter Cable routers that were manufactured this year?


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## Twill57 (Jun 8, 2009)

Best Router? I am not sure there is really a best. For me, if I were buying today, I would be looking at the Milwaukee 5616-24 combo and the DeWalt 618 combo.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I don't know about the 890? series, I hear many complain about it, (I think it relates to the combo multiple base series.
I retired the 7539 from RT duty last fall, and replaced it with a 75182, (3 1/4hp motor). 

I ran that monkey ragged last winter with all kinds of molding profiles close to 500 ft. (multiple setups) I had a 1/2"X4 3/8" Freud bit fully extended, (max'd at 2 1/2" cutting 4 1/2" high fir arches. I'd bet the stress on the router was equal to or worse than panel shaping.

The only prob I ever had with a PC had nothing to do with it but with the mat I was milling, (composite decking) got into the windings and melted killing the 690 motor.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

I have a sears combo unit and love the thing. Soft start can't be beat but, I don't think anything is ever going to truly replace my Makita 3612C.


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

Joe Bones said:


> I did purchase one and I loved the way it ran for about 20 hrs (if that). It started to run at half speed and seemed to spark a lot. Brushes are like new but no matter what I was routingit seemed to run rough and no power.
> 
> The problem is it only has approx. 20 hrs on it but it's 2 yrs old so the warranty been up for a while. I sent several emails to Bosch tech support for any suggestings they may have and the only message back is receipt of my email. Not once have I hear from their TS.


Joe, you've been hit with the double whammy of the American marketplace. 

Cheap labor and lousy customer service. Bosch might not be any worse than a bunch of others, but you had the misfortune to be hit with both of them in the same situation. 

Managers have decided that it is too expensive to build a quality product, and it is cheaper to let poor quality product go out into the marketplace and let the customer deal with any failures. It isn't just Bosch and it isn't just tools. Look at Microsoft or any of the cell phone companies. Many companies no longer strived to be the best in their industry, just not any worse than the others. Even being the "best of a bad lot" is aiming too high for some of them.


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## nitt18 (Jul 24, 2009)

I just purchased a Bosch 1617 EVS yesterday, also after a lot of helpful input from this site, as well as other sources. I hope my first experience with Bosch doesn't end up as yours did. If repair truly isn't an option, it might be helpful to describe your requirements and usage habits. As I discovered during my research for a 2 1/4 HP kit, different manufacturers have different strengths and weaknesses, even when product specifications are nearly identical. Also, don't neglect the importance of feeling a tool in hand before deciding. The day I went to Lowes and handled the products from Bosch, DeWalt, and Porter Cable was the largest factor in my decision to go with Bosch. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to check out the Hitachi 2 1/4 kit as Lowes no longer carries it.


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## lazybum (Jul 16, 2009)

wathman said:


> For those of you with older routers that still work great after years of use as in the earlier Porter Cables, do you think the build quality is on par with the early generations? 25 years from now, do you think we would be able to say the same about Porter Cable routers that were manufactured this year?


Good Question!


The average Joe did not buy a pc 100($100+), he would buy a skill or crapsman(29.95) router 25 years ago

Now the market (BORG) is focused on the DIY and wants them to buy the pro brands at an affordable price.

I would buy another PC, but it would be a Speedmatic commercial duty router for twice or thrice the price the BORG's version 

but, 

I would more than likely get makita Millwaukee or Hitachi


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## SE18 (Apr 6, 2009)

what is a PC router? A brand? A router hooked up to a personal computer (PC?). I tried to Google it and couldn't find. Sorry for the stupid question. I'm sure I'm the only one who doesn't know.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

pc (porter cable) is a name brand of tools.


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## wathman (Jul 16, 2009)

In the context of woodworking, PC router would indeed be Porter Cable. However in the computers and technology world, "PC router" could just as easily refer to a network router that serves a completely different purpose. Those kind of routers often fill the roles of a few different types of network hardware in a convenient package, ideal for small network or home use. The functions a network router typically fills are wireless access point, firewall, local DNS server, and network switch. 

In other words, it's the box you buy that makes the single connection you get from your internet service provider shared by more than one computer.


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

Oh.............I thought a PC router was one that was made by happy workers with female and minority management in a factory powered by solar or wind-generated electricity that served only organic vegan cuisine in their cafeteria. 

.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

For any offended by the diatribe below oh well! I've been in the construction trade for 33 yrs and been privy to the evolution of many of the power tools used in the trade, all have been affected.

Many brands that, (years ago) had the mark of quality about them, Delta, Porter Cable, Rockwell, Milwaukee, Paslode, Hitachi, Makita, Emglo even Sears have suffered. Products that had "made in USA" stamped on them and all were (HEAVY DUTY) back then, albeit without the (sic) designator, compared to today's "classed" products. Pretty much all of these companies were bought out by competitors, how and why I don't know. Said companies either eliminated altered or combined the qualities of the 2 products to create a new better one. In the case of Bosch and Skill saws.

I suspect some time back in the 70s the same type of "Synergy" people that get paid unworthy amounts of money to come up with names like Verison, Keyspan and Cingular decided that "NORMAL" quality tools needed to be reclassified into home owner, construction and industrial. Homeowner equating with throwaway. Industrial always seemed obvious to me, the parameters of such required a separate class.

To improve the product, i,e, (to get it in as many hands as possible, in general those not qualified to use them) they had to lower the price, requiring lower quality parts and cheaper labor, ergo overseas. Then marketing needed to confront the "wavering male ego" to spur his need to be manly, (women as equals filling the labor ranks were chipping away at the male persona of bread winner and sole knower of things.

I have a 3X21" SEARS belt Sander that I know for sure is 32yrs old that's how long ago it was given to me, and it was already old. I still use it when I want to punish wood, or do delicate sanding, (upside down and clamped to the table) I have a 6" SEARS circ from the same period from my father, still use it.

In 85 I bought a Makita 10" miter box, in 97 a Bosch 10" compound slide and when I bought the Makita 12" duel compound slide in 04 I gave the miter box to my father who still uses it to cut steel tubing to make boat trailers.

Like many in my trade I worked for a few companies before going out on my own, probably more so than others, in the quest to learn more or different methods at solving problems. Even the worst of them had something the others didn't do that saved time without risking quality. All were brand fan boys, so I had the privilege of trying them all.

I used to go to Tool shows in the state and asked questions about the tools as they were evolving. Just in case, know this they are mouthpieces speaking company dogma and many never spent time on a roof or walked a 20' high 2X6 wall with studs over his shoulder or spent time on the job using the tools on a daily basis.

I never heard one man whine about a circ being too heavy, yet that was a main reason for going with composite/fiberglass shells on circs from the older cast metal method, instead of well you know what happens when a saw drops a floor or 2 onto the ground or concrete, (which occurs far more in the field than a factory floor)well these new cases are cheaper to replace if the rest of the saw survives the impact. Would have been a bit more believable than too heavy.

The rational to use lighter metals and reduced sizing because the smelting processes have improved hasn't panned out either. I bought a Rockwell recip saw back in 85 when my sears recip melted on a house razing. It finally died in 07, I've gone through 4 Porter Cable recips since 98, 3 of them since 03 all due to mechanical breakdown.

I know PC bought Rockwell, the recips were identical, I heard Dewalt bought Emglo, Delta, PC and I don't know how many other companies. Look at an old emglo and then look at Dewalts compressors. Since Dewalt bought Delta and PC there have been more complaints about product quality. 

Jet products used to be the Volkswagen of the 80s and 90s, it has improved itself to the point where the dealers are lauding Jet quality over Delta in particular TS table surfacing. Manufacturers are creeping up like Woodstock International that I hear make Grizzly and Shop Fox products.

I know from experience that there is always the possibility that you'll get a lemon from a presumed quality product, but the number of complaints on quality has climbed since the notable companies have been bought out and or moved over seas. Product cost hasn't gone down with the improvements in manufacture processes


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Since Black & Decker bought out the Pentair Group (Delta, Porter Cable, DeVilbiss, Oldham) and added them to the DeWalt holdings changes have started. Delta has released the new Unisaw which is a big jump up in quality over recent years. Black & Decker reps somehow kept a straight face when telling the press that PC would be their new mid level quality line below DeWalt. (Yeah, once they reduce the quality far enough)
Bosch does own Skil, RotoZip and now Freud bits and blades divisions. (Freud kept the power tool division) Sears has climbed out of the toilet with it's last two router introductions; the 26623 Bosch 1617 clone and the new combo kits. Hitachi slipped a bit lower by trying to upgrade their products looks more than working on improving what was one of the best routers on the market. Festool is dominating the high end markets. Change is constant, and no doubt the brands this forums suggests in a few years may be all new names. At least with constant input from members we will know which tools are quality and which to avoid.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

My experience with Hitachi is with their pneumatics, (air guns) I have 3 roofers 2/nv45aa, 1nv45ab, 1/3d to 6d nv50aa, (mostly for wood shingle roofing and siding) and 1/3d to 8d nv65a.

The prob is with the nv65a replacements, 1st the 65ac and later the ah, compared to the 65a they're junk, no power to drive and countersink nails. The original 65a came with an extension that lengthened the stroke of the piston 1 3/4" allowing the tool to shoot and countersink 8d ring nails in extremely dense and thick lumber. It was a pallet gun in Japan and used to make big honkin oak pallets. My 65a was used for sheathing, (shelling a frame) and decking, the pressure had to be turned down to shoot 5/4PT into PT frames and way down to shoot plywood to prevent blowthrough.

However that isn't my problem, I bought my 65a in 1985 and it still works fine, the problem is that I can't get 8d nails for it any more and the 6ds are for the 50aa, (which still fit the 65a). The 2 newer models changed nail angle and collation materials the 65a couldn't shoot it.

This forced me to buy the Mak an611 which is a good gun but the 8d nail gauge is so thin now that they tend to fold over, (1/10 average) when driving into PT and mahogany. At the cost of SST rings today it's not cost effective for labor and mat and no one wants Galvy or brights in their decking today.

Almost the same thing with the original Paslode sk312, (spike gun), they were like the AK47 and the .45 m1911a, they were the Timex watch air guns, took a licking and kept on ticking. I still have 2 of the 3 I bought in 85. All the guys I worked around over the yrs were having jamb and metal fracture probs with their new Bostitch and Hitachi spikers.

The sk312 was near perfect, you let the gun do the work, it's weight helped drive the nail and its recoil moved it away from the stock to allow you to effortlessly move it to the next firing position. What would have made it perfect was to maintain weight and balance but use coils instead. They made a coil nailer but it paled in comparison to the stick nailer.


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## Gap_308 (May 2, 2009)

Ok then, let me try. The question for this thread asked whats the best router. My first router is a Triton because it was on sale and the guy at the store said it was a good model. Since then I have found that almost all accessories are for PC routers. Here comes the question. You have $300.00 the U.S. currency, which router would you go get for all around router work?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Actually I'm a little new to routing so I really haven't got much of a history to go on. 
I inherited an old craftsman from my father when he passed away. The thing was so noisy and wild that I just sorta stuck it on the shelf and hoped it would go away. Then a few months ago we decided we needed to upgrade the kitchen and I started looking at that old router and doing some research and decided that the old Craftsman couldn't be representative of the species so I acquired a Hitachi MV12VC kit. I was amazed with the soft start, easy plunge and a newfound awareness of what a router could be capable of with the right driver. I have since aquired a second router, Freud 1700, for use in a table. I plan on using the Hitachi for handheld work, light, easy to control. I was making signs freehand and hour after I turned it on and so far am very happy with the Freud for a table router. But I have found a couple of table jobs where I wish I had had a little more power and may upgrade to a 3-1/4 hp. 
My selections are pretty much price driven as I am on a fixed income but I feel I have gotten a pretty good bang for the buck. The Hitachi kit cost about $170 (dropped to $150 the day after it was delivered:sad:, and I found a reman kit for $102 a few weeks later), and $80 for the reman Freud.

Which is the best router? I guess it would be the one you are most comfortable with. I did a lot of research on both my routers including specs, customer reviews, comparison shopping, etc.

Just my .02, likely about all it worth too. :laugh:


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

The best router, FOR YOU, is the one that has your power requirements, and feels the most comfortable in your hands. Nobody can tell you. It's a matter of looking at them in the store, picking them up and seeing how they fit.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Scott, That is the plain truth. Mike loves his PC 890 series and I love my Bosch 1617's, we all find different reasons for our choices. Perhaps it would help to say that any name brand router will do the job and it is up to you to discover which controls feel right in your hands.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I started with a Bosch Pof 52 and still use it. Next was an Hitachi M12. I sold that and bought a big Elu 177e with speed control. Then a small Elu 96e. I used a Makita and a small DeWalt at school. I have recently bought a DW625e for use in the router table. The Elu's are great and still get use. The DW625e is almost the same as the E177, but with more power and thinner castings.


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## Chizl (Jul 20, 2009)

Wouldn't it be highly suggested to get a router that has variable speeds? If you going to spend the money, might as well get one that has the flexibility that will be needed based on each project.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Chizl said:


> Wouldn't it be highly suggested to get a router that has variable speeds? If you going to spend the money, might as well get one that has the flexibility that will be needed based on each project.


Yes and no. It has to be what is best for you. Soft start should also be suggested. Truth be told, YOU have to operate the router NOT someone else. What you're looking for in a router and how it feels to you may not be the same for the next person. It's a personal preference sorta thing. 

IMHO, this is one of a few questions that can't be truly answered. It does however, bring lots to a conversation. :yes4:


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Big bits in more powerful routers benefit from a "soft start". Variable speed is essential on wide cutters.


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## bill kay (Aug 12, 2007)

Mike said:


> Joe Bones, the advice you got two years ago still holds true. If you are using the router less than 10 hours a year perhaps you are not familiar enough with the controls? Is your speed control turned for maximum RPM? Maybe you are storing the router in an extremely dirty or wet environment? Other than these things you may have a faulty speed controller. Bosch is very good about replacement of defective items, at times even out of warranty. Why did you not take the router in for service when the problem started? We try to help members as much as possible in dealing with companies.


Based on my experiences and those of others it would seem that unfamiliarity with the controls is not the problem. These routers have a documented problem with switches and the soft start/speed control. I got that info directly from a Bosch customer service rep.

I have a Bosch 1617 and it has had reoccurring switch problems. The router was in and out of the service department constantly during the warranty period. The last replacement switch lasted just long enough to make it past the end warranty date. I wrote to Bosch and they sent one of the "New Design" switches. It made it a little longer. Now there is a problem with that one.

It appears that the overall design of this router is NOT suited for a table mounted application. 

When it runs it is a great tool Unfortunately that occurs infrequently. 

Currently I'm gathering the information needed to make a formal product safety complaint to the feds. The switch problem is a double edged sword. Most of the time it just wont turn on. Unfortunately I have had it start when the switch appears to be in the off position.

Regards,

Bill


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## wathman (Jul 16, 2009)

If you are going to depend on a single router and plan on cutting a very wide range of materials, (hardwoods, softwoods, metals, plastics) Variable speed is important.


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

bill kay said:


> These routers have a documented problem with switches and the soft start/speed control. I got that info directly from a Bosch customer service rep.
> 
> I have a Bosch 1617 and it has had reoccurring switch problems. The router was in and out of the service department constantly during the warranty period. The last replacement switch lasted just long enough to make it past the end warranty date. I wrote to Bosch and they sent one of the "New Design" switches. It made it a little longer. Now there is a problem with that one.


Was the "_New Design_" switch the Taiwanese Solteam MR25 series?

Mine is soldered to _very_ short leads, which means that replacement requires disassembly.



> Most of the time it just wont turn on. Unfortunately I have had it start when the switch appears to be in the off position.


Perhaps this is why Bosch tells you to unplug before replacing bits. 

I haven't taken measurements, but I wonder if a higher quality replacement might be available from an industrial supplier like Grainger or McMaster.

.


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## bill kay (Aug 12, 2007)

Billat908 said:


> Was the "_New Design_" switch the Taiwanese Solteam MR25 series?
> 
> Mine is soldered to _very_ short leads, which means that replacement requires disassembly.
> 
> ...



I'm not sure of the actual manufacturer of the switch. I had to remove the top cover to replace it. The leads appeared to be of the same length as the switch I replaced.


You bet .... It has only happened once so far. The router was table mounted at the time. I was on the other side of the garage. Quite surprised by the router starting and launching a piece of maple.

I have noticed that the version sold by sears has a regular toggle switch. Maybe someone who is more skilled in this area could take a look at using the Craftsman switch as a replacement.


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## Chizl (Jul 20, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> What you're looking for in a router and how it feels to you may not be the same for the next person. It's a personal preference sorta thing.


How does one test the full feel of different type of routers if they don't already have them? I'm assuming you may have friends or family near by that you can test with, however people like myself don't know anyone that has a router out side of my dad who is not even in the same state. Going to the store and picking one up doesn't help, because it would be the use of the router that determines the feel. HP, Sound, and accessories like guards make a big difference. I know my Hitachi is loud, is powerful, but has no guard which fills my pockets up with saw dust every time I use it. The 2 1/4 HP forces me to hold it very tightly or it will devour a piece of wood. 

I would not have known any of this without actually using it. So back to the original question. How does one test the feel without having used it?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bill Kay, I am sorry to hear you are having so many problems with your 1617EVS. Years ago I suggested that people were better off buying the 1617 with the rocker switch and using an external speed controller. I own two 1617's and they have been trouble free. The Craftsman model you speak of is the 26620 and was discontinued about two years ago. I am sure you have documentation of your switch problems so take it with you to a Bosch service center and I am sure they will replace the switch at no charge. Bosch stands behind their products better than any other firm we have dealt with to date. If they will not make it right at no charge send me a PM and I will assist you. You have 29,000 new friends behind you.

Chizl, Woodcraft has a store in Addison and I am sure they will help you try out different routers. Worst case you can post a sign explaining you want to try the feel of different brands before you buy. I am sure one of the customers will have one that feels right to you. Woodworkers are friendly people, ask for help and you will get it.


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## Gap_308 (May 2, 2009)

Chizl your line of questioning is where I'm at also. I have a Triton 2 1/4 which is a good router so far. I bought it at woodcrafters per their advise, it just didnt come with any of the extra goodies. No guide bushings for one. Now that I have been tinkering with woodwork I find most router gadgets are based on PC routers. Since I want to learn dovetails I need a dependable base with PC bushings. I'm already studying the 895 for my next investment. Maybe look at all the accessories first and buy the router that goes with em'


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Scott, momentum is why PC is the standard. The 690 series routers have been around longer than any other router in production. Being the first does not mean they are the best. The 890 series was plagued with problems which are supposed to be over. Some members got good ones and are very happy with them. A mounting plate should cure your inability to use guide bushings with your Triton. The Bosch 1617 is top rated by magazine testing and is my favorite router. Most staff members of the forums past and present own Bosch.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

As for no response because the Bosch router was 2 years old, here in the u/k we have somthing called the Sale of Goods Act, it states that a product will be warranted by the manufacturer for a period of 6 years after the date of purchase and I have used this on two occasions to get new replacements, one after two years and one after 3 years. The manufacturerers stated warranty is purely a form of advertising. This will be backed up by the Consumer Rights Association. I presume they don't have something similar in the States?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Not for items like a router Derek. Even so, Bosch makes good on their warranty... even if it has expired. I know of several cases where they have gone beyond what is required to make things right. I have nothing but praise for their actions.


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

derek willis said:


> here in the u/k we have somthing called the Sale of Goods Act, it states that a product will be warranted by the manufacturer for a period of 6 years after the date of purchase. I presume they don't have something similar in the States?


Here, business has a little more influence than there, I think. 

In a lot of cases, you are lucky if you can buy a part six years later to do your own repair.


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## FatFreddysCat (Apr 5, 2009)

Chizl said:


> Wouldn't it be highly suggested to get a router that has variable speeds?


I'll question that one. I've used a lot of routers in commercial environments over too many years and from experience the three items which wear out/fail, get jammed with dust or fall off are:

1. variable speed controller
2. on-off switch
3. depth stop

The one which costs the most is the variable speed controller. I'd say that if you don't absolutely need it then go for a single speed router. It will last longer and cost less.

For the record my own shop has currently got 2 x deWalt DW625, 2 x Elu MOF177e, 1 x Elu MOF98, 2 x Elu MOF31, 1 x Festo OF1000E-Plus, 2 x Elu MOF96 and 1 x Bosch Colt. The older Elus are heavy but more reliable than the modern DWs


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## Gold (Aug 13, 2009)

Any thoughts on the Triton 3 1/4 HP router?


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## Jean-Marc (Apr 23, 2011)

Well it'a a 2009 topic, 

In Belgium we do not have fixe base router, as in the US, I love the PC with the handle near the base. I am intending to do freehand routing sign, but unfortunately I am not having the correct router. I will need at least 3 router, inorder not to change bits all the time. I am intending to buy a green Bosch router + - 120 euros and modify it into a fixe base router. Can somebody help please.


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