# Beadlock Pro Joinery



## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Has anyone had any experience with the Beadlock Pro Joinery jig that Rockler is selling?

Thanks

Steve Bolton


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Steve, floating tenon joinery works well. The Beadlock design allows for more glue surfaces than a plain tenon, so it should be stronger in theory. I am too cheap to spend the money for a set up like this. If I was building a project that required floating tenons I would make my own. Rout out the mortise with a plunge bit, then cut a tenon to fit it using a round over or bull nose bit to shape the ends into an oval. It doesn't get much easier than that. A production shop using many of these connections would profit from having the Beadlock items, home use it seems too expensive to me.


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Well, I used to make floating tenons and they worked well. But this machine at 120.00 isn't real bad in price. I wonder if it is made in the USA?

Steve Bolton


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Steve

If you buy one of the jigs you can save tons of money by making your own tenons with this type of router bit..

I make some now and then but I use the plunge router to put in the pocket for them...

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-Shank-...50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Bob, do you have that Beadlock Pro? I thought you had a horizonatal router table, which would seem to be perfect for making floating tenon joints.

That Domino sure is expensive and I question how great those joints would be. People love the Domino tools and I hope I don't get hate mail for the comment I just made.

SB


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Steve

Nope I don't have the Beadlock Pro but I do use the Horz.router table to make the tenons


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Hi Steve, that jig sounds expensive to me plus you would probably have to buy the tennons because I don't think the cutter shown by Bj. is suitable, I think you would end up with separate dowel rods, just re-view the photo and think about it. I do however an exact cutter which I have used to great effect on the outside of boxes. Plain old standard floating tennons still produce strong joints.

Here are a couple of examples showing what that cutter can be used for.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry and Steve

Here's a snapshot or two I took today just for kicks,,,,

They are very easy to make, I was in a bit of a rush ,but Harry likes pictures  made with scrap Oak stock...( pallets stock ) sometimes you can find it in 3/8" thick boards, saves time from running them in the planner...the bead bit will do the clean up job...

But I don't used them all the time I like to use the standard floating type..
I did drill some holes in by free hand just to show how they just slide in easy.
You will also see some shots of Aspen knobs I'm making again just for kicks..
Just a new and easy way to make them...but I'm still playing with them...
The guy next door took a Aspen tree down and what I saw was not fire wood but knob stock..  

Now Harry you can see they can be made with the bead bit,,easy stuff..

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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

You should write a book. Talent going to waste.

Steve Bolton


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Steve

..


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

I understand the "theory" behind these but, this is overkill. A simple "floating tenon" can't be beat. It doesn't require extra tooling nor the time required to get the setup done.

Just my $0.02 worth. 

If I stepped on any toes here, I apologize.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

I think they are made for the guy that only has a drill...in his tool belt 
But wants to put in a good strong wood joint now and then.. 

Plus he doesn't know that he can buy a router combo kit for just a little bit less than the jig.... and a small add on base plate and then he has a real tool...plus some 

Jig = 120.oo dollars
http://www.rockler.com/search_results.cfm?filter=Beadlock+Pro&submit.x=0&submit.y=0
http://www.rockler.com/gallery.cfm?Offerings_ID=18092&TabSelect=Details

add on plate 20.oo dollars for the router..
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17847&filter=Router base Plate

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Hamlin said:


> Hi,
> 
> I understand the "theory" behind these but, this is overkill. A simple "floating tenon" can't be beat. It doesn't require extra tooling nor the time required to get the setup done.
> 
> ...


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

I think that would be the appeal of the device. Make a good joint with a drill. It looks well made.

SB


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj., as I have confessed on many occasions, at times I can be a slow learner so please be patient with me. I do not understand how the multi dowel shown in shot 0210 was made with the cutter shown in shot 0213. Could you please be patient with me and take some shots holding the bead against the cutter as it would have been set-up for each of the cuts. Thanks Bj.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Here's a snapshot or two that shows how to make them with one bit..
once the bit is set it should not need to be readjusted to make all the passes...the key is to use the right bit and the right size of stock, in this case it's 1 1/8"

They can be made in 3/16" diam. to 3/4" diam. in the same way...

You know I'm not a big fan of the wooden dowel pins but this way they are locked in place, unlike the standard dowel pin that acts like a pivot joint.
If I want something to turn I would use a round pin  but thie best dowel pin by far is the square one...it's a locking wedge pin and it will not let the stock turn on the pin...or pivot on it.. 


They can be made on a standard router table but I like to use the Horz. router table anytime I need to run stock by the bit on it's edge,on the standard router table, it's just alot safer and quicker than setting the jig on the other router table...

Edge Beading Bit
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Edge-Beading-Bit-Style-3-1-2-Shank-13-16-Dia-/C1374


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harrysin said:


> Bj., as I have confessed on many occasions, at times I can be a slow learner so please be patient with me. I do not understand how the multi dowel shown in shot 0210 was made with the cutter shown in shot 0213. Could you please be patient with me and take some shots holding the bead against the cutter as it would have been set-up for each of the cuts. Thanks Bj.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I appreciate the time you spent on this demonstrate Bj. All became immediately obvious with the new clear shots of the cutter. Early on in your post, when you mentioned square dowels, I thought "gee whiz, Bj. has found the secret of putting square pegs in round holes" but I continued looking at the photos. and saw that you do in fact make square holes.
I have been thinking (as one does), if three holes have to be drilled, why not simply use three common or garden standard splined dowels which cost next to nothing and will in fact slightly increase the gluing area. Just a thought!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

You'er Welcome 


It's just a new gimick that some one came up with I think, they know that wood workers will buy anything that's new... 

And I think you are right 3 holes a some normal dowel rods would do the same job..
The jig just makes it easyer to drill the 3 holes right on...

===========


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I appreciate the time you spent on this demonstration Bj. All became immediately obvious with the new clear shots of the cutter. Early on in your post, when you mentioned square dowels, I thought "gee whiz, Bj. has found the secret of putting square pegs in round holes" but I continued looking at the photos. and saw that you do in fact make square holes.
I have been thinking (as one does), if three holes have to be drilled, why not simply use three common or garden standard splined dowels which cost next to nothing and will in fact slightly increase the gluing area. Just a thought!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a new way to make Knobs..quick and easy with Craftsman Router Lathe..

http://www.routerforums.com/73654-post8.html

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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks for the knob demo BJ....excellent....I'll follow your example and try this when I am able.

Just a quick question....why couldn't you just cut each knob off once you had the long grooves in the wood. I'm just wondering the purpose of the short grooves between each knob.

Thanks BJ.

Ed......


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## Rolf Maxa (Feb 8, 2005)

BJ, I would be interested in some detail on your Router rail system. Did you make that or was it something you bought. 
Rolf


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Rolf


They make high end ones that sale for 2,000.oo but the one I use is just a cheap Craftsman model, that I got off eBay for 50.oo bucks..but it will do many jobs like the high end one..

Below you will see a Manual in the PDF format that's neat to read...it will show some of what the machine can do..

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rmaxa said:


> BJ, I would be interested in some detail on your Router rail system. Did you make that or was it something you bought.
> Rolf


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

It's a lathe but not like a norm lathe,,, once the long grooves are in the wood then you need to round them over ,top and bottom of the knob, so I used a double round over bit so to speak that can plunge in and do the top and the bottom of each knob at the same time plus put a small stand off on the bottom so I could have something to hold on to to drill the hole in the center of the knobs...for the tee-nut and center hole...

I didn't want to clamp the knob because it's done once it's out of the lathe I think I would put in hvy. vise marks in the wood...plus it has the small stand off on the bottom side of the knob to keep your knuckles from hitting when you crank it down when you use them..... 


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karateed said:


> Thanks for the knob demo BJ....excellent....I'll follow your example and try this when I am able.
> 
> Just a quick question....why couldn't you just cut each knob off once you had the long grooves in the wood. I'm just wondering the purpose of the short grooves between each knob.
> 
> ...


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ed
> 
> It's a lathe but not like a norm lathe,,, once the long grooves are in the wood then you need to round them over ,top and bottom of the knob, so I used a double round over bit so to speak that can plunge in and do the top and the bottom of each knob at the same time plus put a small stand off on the bottom so I could have something to hold on to to drill the hole in the center of the knobs...for the tee-nut and center hole...
> 
> ...


Thanks BJ.

Have you tried doing twists that have a hollow center yet?

Ed......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

In one of the snapshots you will see one I made,,,it's not a big one...
( 1 1/4" OD x 12" long)

Along time ago I had the same tool and made many rope items,lamps,candle stands,etc. and the router lathe can do that job very well...

But I got bored with the lathe and sold it off then I saw one on eBay so I got one more, I must have gotten smarter since then,,,, from along time ago because I can see many new ways to use the machine now..   



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karateed said:


> Thanks BJ.
> 
> Have you tried doing twists that have a hollow center yet?
> 
> Ed......


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ed
> 
> In one of the snapshots you will see one I made,,,it's not a big one...
> ( 1 1/4" OD x 12" long)
> ...


I see you have a board guiding the router and a about a 2 inch square running along that board. I thought that part was on the router crafter so I'm wondering why you are using that setup. I'm pretty new still a wood working so I hope I'm not trying your patience and I do appreciate your answers very much.

Thanks BJ,

Ed......


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## Rolf Maxa (Feb 8, 2005)

bobj3 said:


> HI Rolf
> 
> 
> They make high end ones that sale for 2,000.oo but the one I use is just a cheap Craftsman model, that I got off eBay for 50.oo bucks..but it will do many jobs like the high end one..



Thanks BJ


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

In the manual they say very little about the two bolts that hold the board in place,, I use them so I can make a pattern and then screw it on to the board, so the router can copy the pattern,,,,,

I made 3 diff. ones (guide points,flat,rounded end and a sharp point) to run on the board, the flat one is so the router runs flat and true...all the way down the stock...

" not trying your patience " you are NOT I enjoy sharing what little I know. 


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karateed said:


> I see you have a board guiding the router and a about a 2 inch square running along that board. I thought that part was on the router crafter so I'm wondering why you are using that setup. I'm pretty new still a wood working so I hope I'm not trying your patience and I do appreciate your answers very much.
> 
> Thanks BJ,
> 
> Ed......


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks BJ,

and what little you know is a lot.

Ed......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome and Thanks Ed

I love to make knobs    when I don't want to do anything but play with wood and make some saw dust . 


I made some more today out of 1 3/4" Oak dowel rod...just for kicks.. I was amaze how much faster I made them with dowel rod... 

==========


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## Doyle (Mar 20, 2007)

Thanks BJ, I have learned more in my short time on router forums than all the years making scrap wood from scrap wood. If I only had a source for good wood I could make expensive scrap wood.
Take care and keep the posts coming.
Doyle


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Doyle ,,you'er welcome


Here's some snapshots for Ed... he also has a Craftsman router lathe..

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Plus you will see some shots of what it looked like when I got it off eBay..
bit rusty and full of dirt..missing some parts and a broken wheel


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Bj, do you have your router lathe bolted on a board that can then be attached to the top of a work bench? It looks like it is mounted to something. Like the new cranking handle you made. Do you have a new plate made for the other end? Can't tell from the pics but it looks like you have it clamped some how. Hey, just clean it up and take Harry and me a half dozen pics of how you have it mounted and the changes you have made to it. Oh by the way, is $50.00 to much for one that was used only once and is like new? Thanks in advanced Bob.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a Update and a review on the Router Lathe..

I got the *Pioneer Universal Router Lathe
From *_*Canada , that's the last time I get something from *__*Canada.
*_

Anyway it's a great router Lathe, it's 95% Steel...with 3/4" steel rods for support and guides,,
It works about the same as the Craftsman with some extra items...It has a base plate that can be adjusted up or down for bigger stock and to keep the router running true...and flat all the way down the stock.

Many other things that are neat about this one..
see snapshots below..

By the way you will see Router Dust all over the place that's for Harry and Glenmore, they like to see router dust in the shop   LOL LOL ..
It gives them something to talk about on the net.. 

=========

All in All I would give this router setup 4 stars out of 5 stars..

Bj
=========
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/8193-beadlock-pro-joinery-4.html
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/8348-craftsman-router-lathe.html
http://www.routerforums.com/74088-post32.html


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Hi Dave

Yep the lathe is bolted to the 1/2" plywood, so I can hang it all up on the wall when I'm done using it...I used some carr. bolts and flat headed screws in some clamp blocks, I just drill the two holes for the pipes and then used the band saw to split them in to 2 parts...I did rap the inside of the clamps with some double sided stickey tape so they would hold the pipes when I clamped them down to the plywood...

Then It's easy to just clamp it to the work bench with two hand clamps..when I need to used it..

When I got it had no handle with it so I had to made my own, but It worked out well for a cranking and a way to lock the part in place for fluting the stock..a small thing they over looked when they made it..
They didn't over look it, in one of the snapshots you will see a wing nut on the crank end of the lathe, it's made to lock the stock in place but it's a bit lame  it pulls the stock to one side and out of line..it's just a steel bar that puts presser on the white spool, plus because the router is at a angle the index markers are off just a bit, the bigger the stock the bigger the angle, I have been working on that with a wedge under the router to get the bit to run true down and around the stock...it's not a big deal until the stock is over 2 1/2" in diam. then you are cutting on the side of the stock in away....unlike the way it should be dead on center of the stock...


The crank base for the mount is just some hardwood and some wooden dowel rod, the lathe comes with a indexing but no real way to lock it in place but now it has.. 

50.oo dollars is a good price, and a very fair price, the one I got was missing some parts and had a broken pulley and was a bit rusty and I paid 50.oo dollars for it..

below you see one that's Made in China if I recall it was 120.oo dollars but sold out of Ca.
*Pioneer Universal Router Lathe* 
http://www.houseoftools.com/product.htm?pid=169889

Just a UPDATE Note *** 06-20-2008
I did BUY the *Pioneer Universal Router Lathe
The price was right BUT the shipping blew me away, it was 75.oo to ship it from * _*Canada*_ * but I wanted it, so it's on the way... 
* 
...............





Dr.Zook said:


> Bj, do you have your router lathe bolted on a board that can then be attached to the top of a work bench? It looks like it is mounted to something. Like the new cranking handle you made. Do you have a new plate made for the other end? Can't tell from the pics but it looks like you have it clamped some how. Hey, just clean it up and take Harry and me a half dozen pics of how you have it mounted and the changes you have made to it. Oh by the way, is $50.00 to much for one that was used only once and is like new? Thanks in advanced Bob.


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Hi BJ,

Great pictures, thank you.

If it's possible, could you take some pictures of how you have this thing mounted to your plywood? I think I see a couple of supports but it's a bit hard to tell for me at least. I think I will do the same as you for mounting it on something so I can make it more portable but also more useable.

Thanks very much BJ,

Ed......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed ,,thanks,, here's some more snapshots of the mounting brackets.

this is one that I MADE ON 4-08-2008 or about that,,,

http://www.routerforums.com/70237-post9.html
http://www.routerforums.com/starting-off/7588-router-turning-machine-2.html

http://www.routerforums.com/starting-off/7588-router-turning-machine.html


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karateed said:


> Hi BJ,
> 
> Great pictures, thank you.
> 
> ...


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Excellent,

Thanks BJ,

Ed......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome Ed

Now it's your turn to post some pictures 

To keep Harry and Doc happy 

They both like Play Boy for the text in the paper back but enjoy the pictures just a little bit more ...   ...


By the way Steve SORRY for high jacking your post 


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

No, problem. Since I started the post I was up in my shop and found a beadlock device that I apparently bought many years ago. It is not the fancy one, but I see no reason not to use it. Pretty sick when you stumble across things like that. It proves that I am more of a tool collector than anything else. Someday that stuff will be antiques and worth gold.

sb


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> You'er Welcome Ed
> 
> Now it's your turn to post some pictures
> 
> ...


OK, I'll post pics once I get something done....in fact, why don't I take pics during the process a la Harry?

Ed......


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Wow, missed a lot of info here. Sorry I have been absent so much lately and check in every once in awhile. Been feeling poorly but nothing compared to what some have experienced here so I will shut up. 

Steve, the Domino is a wonderful tool and I have no doubt that those joints will be very long lasting. I just think it's over priced as are most festool products in my opinion. It's easy and not a lot of set up. 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"why don't I take pics during the process a la Harry?"

I'll say Amen to that Ed.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj., how about sending me some of your copies of Playboy, but please include the pictures that adorn you bedroom walls!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Sorry Harry

I don't have any,, the BOSS burns them... 

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harrysin said:


> Bj., how about sending me some of your copies of Playboy, but please include the pictures that adorn you bedroom walls!


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

The Festool Domino is about 750.00 I think. The Pro Beadlock is about 120.00.

I wonder if the Domino joints are really that strong? Anyone heard?

sb


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

BUMP


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a Update and a review on the Router Lathe..

I got the Pioneer Universal Router Lathe
From Canada , that's the last time I get something from Canada.


Anyway it's a great router Lathe, it's 95% Steel...with 3/4" steel rods for support and guides,,
It works about the same as the Craftsman with some extra items...It has a base plate that can be adjusted up or down for bigger stock and to keep the router running true...and flat all the way down the stock.

Many other things that are neat about this one..
see snapshots below..

By the way you will see Router Dust all over the place that's for Harry and Glenmore, they like to see router dust in the shop LOL LOL ..
It gives them something to talk about on the net..

=========

All in All I would give this router setup 4 stars out of 5 stars..

=========
Now it's dry out time so I can sand it down, and now I'm looking for a small sewing machine motor and round belt and pulleys so I can spin the lathe to sand them down and put on the fine finish...

Bj
=========
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fi...-joinery-4.html
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fi...uter-lathe.html
http://www.routerforums.com/74088-post32.html


==========


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

A first class photo-shoot Bj. don't you agree that the sawdust adds realism? I am a little surprised that you did the turning on the router lathe rather than the more conventional method of turning close to size on the standard lathe then taking the final cut on the router lathe prior to routing the spirals. Now that there is sawdust in your shop, how about a tapered spiral.
What went wrong in buying from Canada?


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Hi BJ,

Pretty skookum looking machine. Nice job and nice chips....good to see...also good photo shoot, just needs numbers on them for proper order and it would be perfect.

I'm also curious about what happened buying from Canada. I know when I buy from the US that the cross border stuff sometimes gets rediculous both cost wise and shipping wise. Other than that I've had no problems.

Ed......


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Hi Ed., there has been something wrong with the forums programme for ever, photos. can be downloaded in the correct order and appear in any order at all. The secret when viewing is to place the cursor on each shot in turn and it's number shows.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Harry and ED

" realism? " hahahahahaha LOL,, yep shows realism hahahahaha..

I don't have a standrad lathe anymore that why I got the router lathes, I got feed up with making bows,hammers,pens,etc. and it could do only one job make things round and the router lathe can do most of it plus more (flutes,indexing,rope left or rght hand,etc.try turning something on a standard left hand way...backwards,,,) and I don't need to keep all the tools razor sharp now I can put in a new bit that I many of on hand.

The Canada

Shipping cost is the prime but many others things got me ticked off,,I call and ask if I could get a tracking number after a week and they said it's still on our dock and we are about to ship, and I said ABOUT ?,,,well it's goes on and on and on, the last word I had with them was, SHIP THE DAM THING..! ,well they did and I was waiting for a box from UPS and at 4:30 PM the US Post Office pulled up 10 days after my ship it quote ,,with a 60 lb.box ,I guess they don't have UPS or they don't use it, this is a big company in Canada but very small in my mind ,,,



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harrysin said:


> A first class photo-shoot Bj. don't you agree that the sawdust adds realism? I am a little surprised that you did the turning on the router lathe rather than the more conventional method of turning close to size on the standard lathe then taking the final cut on the router lathe prior to routing the spirals. Now that there is sawdust in your shop, how about a tapered spiral.
> What went wrong in buying from Canada?


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

harrysin said:


> Hi Ed., there has been something wrong with the forums programme for ever, photos. can be downloaded in the correct order and appear in any order at all. The secret when viewing is to place the cursor on each shot in turn and it's number shows.


Hi Harry,

Actually, I got that from being a long time computer geek, I was just thinking of those that don't understand the popups cause they hate computers as a necessity these days. Also, I saw you numbered your pictures on the pictures with text so I thought I would copy you and do that too.

Hey BJ,

What bit do you use when 'rounding down' the wood before putting in the spirals? Also, what type of bit are you using for the spirals? May I ask what that machine cost (if you don't want to air that maybe a PM or link)?

Thanks guys,

Ed......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

I used a tee-slot bit  it has a cutter on the bottom side but just about any bit will do the job the last time I used a 1 1/8" pattern bit.

the spirals are put in with a 
1/2"Ovolo Bit 1/2" sh
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?dept=10

The other bits , strait 1/4" carb. upcut...
7/32"Classical Plunge Cut Bit 1/2" sh
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=162542A

Price 120.oo US dollars plus 75.00 shipping, but I'm sure you can kill that shipping charge with a pickup/will call order

I have playing with it all day long I must say I _like it alot _..it's well made over the pond...It has the CE sticker on the box so it's hard to say where it's made...the only thing that I didn't like is a SHARP edge on the bolt for the handle and wing nut, it has a slot the the shaft and it's sharp as hell, I now have a new cut on my thumb   LOL..and I just got a old one to heal up right next to it DAM... ..tools will get you all the time.. LOL..


I did add 3 more shots just for kicks..on the other post..


Just a note I tried numbering the pictures but it was waste of time you still need to open them up to read the number so I just stopped doing the extra step...most will be lost in the maze of the web data base server...so I try and give them short file numbers in place of names...most of the time. 


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karateed said:


> Hi Harry,
> 
> Actually, I got that from being a long time computer geek, I was just thinking of those that don't understand the popups cause they hate computers as a necessity these days. Also, I saw you numbered your pictures on the pictures with text so I thought I would copy you and do that too.
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ed

This is just one more update  that you may get a kick out of .

I did find a sewing machine motor and put it on today 
It now has a VS motor and floor control device, it had a 3 step pulley that worked out just great for adding a motor, it turns 0 to 800 rpm just right for sanding and a bit of router lathe turning..

=========
Tach.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...ools&hvadid=1101787061&ref=pd_sl_7h0ck8hx7t_b

=========


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Bump


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I really do like your motor conversion Bj., but is it powerful enough, if it is , it's a great way to round a log so that it is truly parallel before going into a standard lathe.
I see that you purchased two router lathes, one blue and one black.


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Hi BJ,

Now that is an interesting innovation. As Harry has noted, how is the power on it?

Ed......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed and Harry

It's fine on power , because it's not needed like a standard lathe the router has the power for the cutting job,all the little motor needs to do turn the stock..and spin it for sanding...at low,med.and high speed...the little sewing machine have alot of power because of the small pulley on the motor and a big on on the stock harbor....it's 1/4" diam. to 3 1/2" ,3",2 1/2" pulley setup...I realy like the VS speed contol on the floor it frees my hands up...so I can control the router or sanding block with my hands...I have not found out the best way to pull or push the router it works great both ways..I guess I like to pull it ,,in that way I can see whats going on under the router base...

HaRRY ,Yes I have one black one and one blue one...I would like to have one like Doug's but it's 2500.oo bucks so I guess I will use the black one and blue one for now...now I'm looking for a live center for both and thinking of a way to store them I think I'm going to build a cabinet that works like the old iron boards cabinet, that dropped down out of the wall...

Harry or anyone ,,,do you know of anyone that sells or makes a live center with a shaft that has 3/8-16/38-24 threads on the one end ( male or female) ...I have 5 or 6 of the morse taper type but it would be more work to get them to fit this router lathes...
I get my live centers from the Little Machine shop, because the price is right.  and they are made right.

http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_search.php?critFast=live+center&B1=Product+Search
Great sale on the item below
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=3385

Below you will see a snapshot of (kp91) Doug's high end router lathe machine ....
==



karateed said:


> Hi BJ,
> 
> Now that is an interesting innovation. As Harry has noted, how is the power on it?
> 
> Ed......


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Hi Bob,
Your motorized router lathe looks like a real neat tool 

could you adapt the live center from the grizzly drill press lathe adapter to work with it? 

It looks like it mounts the same way in the picture.

http://grizzly.com/products/H8071


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Greg

Thanks ,, that should do the trick 

That's what's neat about this site, two or more heads are always better than one. 

I just order it and it's on the way more or less .. 

THANKS

Bj

It looks like they have a hole in the center of the plate that the live center fits into (standard morse taper hole ) that slips into the hole of the drill press base table...but that should be fine... 



==========



gregW said:


> Hi Bob,
> Your motorized router lathe looks like a real neat tool
> 
> could you adapt the live center from the grizzly drill press lathe adapter to work with it?
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Harry

You crack me up  

" before going into a standard lathe " LOL LOL hahahahaha

The Blue one can take on 42" long stock, the black one can take on a 38" long timber ,, a standard lathe can do the same almost and can take on a 42" timber but it's 1500,oo dollars unlike the two I have that only cost 250.oo bucks for both  they can't turn big bows but I'm not into making bows any more ,plus they don't take up a big foot print on the shop floor...going on the shop wall when I'm done with them.. LOL 

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17110&filter=wood lathe


Now if I recall my indexing math I will be set... 24 hole plate no big deal but I got lost on the 36 hole indexing plate...


==========




harrysin said:


> I really do like your motor conversion Bj., but is it powerful enough, if it is , it's a great way to round a log so that it is truly parallel before going into a standard lathe.
> I see that you purchased two router lathes, one blue and one black.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

[


Now if I recall my indexing math I will be set... 24 hole plate no big deal but I got lost on the 36 hole indexing plate...


I'm don't understand what you mean Bj, a 24 hole indexing plate will give increments of 15* and a 36 hole one increments of 10*


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Harry

I got that but lets say I want 4 on the 36 pin index plate, it would be 1-9-18-27 but what would it be for 7 or I can't get 7 on a 36 it must be 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,etc. just even numbers and would I start with 1 or 5 to get it to come out right...mind block thing for me ... 




=======



harrysin said:


> [
> 
> 
> Now if I recall my indexing math I will be set... 24 hole plate no big deal but I got lost on the 36 hole indexing plate...
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

This post is for Greg and Ed

A big thank you Greg , I got the kit from Grizzly and took the live center out of it and used it on the new router lathe... work great.

I need to do just a bit more work on it, like paint it blue etc.and it will be set to run..

Thanks again..

========


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Very nice BJ.....and thank you...

Ummmm, aren't you suppost to make the knobs before you use them (last picture)....?

Ed......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

" knobs before you use them " that pair are from the last batch I made 
came in handy for this project just the right size...




===========



karateed said:


> Very nice BJ.....and thank you...
> 
> Ummmm, aren't you suppost to make the knobs before you use them (last picture)....?
> 
> Ed......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

You'er Welcome 

The neat thing about this live center is the way they made it, I would have never tough of it with out seeing one...
They took a Tapered Roller Bearing and pressed a standard center into the center of the bearing and then press the bearing into the 1/2" thick steel bar..neat way to do it.. 

"Tapered roller bearings can support large radial and large thrust loads.

http://www.howstuffworks.com/bearing3.htm

==========


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just some more KNOBS 

Are you fed up with knobs like I am , this is the last ones for a bit..

I now have about 70 on hand that should hold me for a bit but I do like to make jigs and they all take knobs...(4ea. the norm )

This little bit of work will save me about 210.oo dollars in the cost of buying knobs.


Again I'm SORRY SB ( Steve ) for high jacking your thread ( Post)  hope it's OK with you ...



========


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Hi BJ,

Never get tired of these knobs. You've one of the most innovative people I've never met.

Ed......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ed

Thanks 

I hope you and others can used what I have posted...


========





karateed said:


> Hi BJ,
> 
> Never get tired of these knobs. You've one of the most innovative people I've never met.
> 
> Ed......


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

You know we can and will BJ,

Ed......


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Hi Bj,
you're welcome..I'm glad it worked 

it looks like you had to trim it down to fit between the rails...whats the purpose of offsetting the new plate from the tailstock?






bobj3 said:


> This post is for Greg and Ed
> 
> A big thank you Greg , I got the kit from Grizzly and took the live center out of it and used it on the new router lathe... work great.
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi gregW

The " offsetting of the new plate " it's needed for the adjustment part of the live center tail stock..the one that came with the machine was a full threaded bolt with a sharp point on the end and a black plastic knob.
see 1st set of snapshots, 
I could have bolted the flat steel stock to the stock tail end bar and use the 3 Allen bolts to move it in and out with a light tap with a hammer but I'm almost sure the Allen bolts will put marks on the 3/4" guide rods that's the heart of the machine, one small nick and it would stop or hang up router base plate from moving up and down the rails...

Your'er right I did cut off both ends of the mouning plate to get it to fit just right...the only error I ran into was to lining it up on dead center of the mount once the bolts where free, I just made setup block to fix that error, once the setup block is in place the center point of the live center is dead on with the one in the head stock of the machine and the live center bar is just right...
Now it takes about 10 sec. to line it back up once a new turning is in place and it turns nice and free now on the live center 


==========




gregW said:


> Hi Bj,
> you're welcome..I'm glad it worked
> 
> it looks like you had to trim it down to fit between the rails...whats the purpose of offsetting the new plate from the tailstock?


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Hi Bob,

got it..thanks 

I was thinking that if you bolted a plate to the tailstock with two threaded holes for your tensioning rods the live center would keep its alignment to the headstock, but it sounds like your setup block is doing the same thing.




bobj3 said:


> ...the only error I ran into was to lining it up on dead center of the mount once the bolts where free, I just made setup block to fix that error, once the setup block is in place the center point of the live center is dead on with the one in the head stock of the machine and the live center bar is just right...
> Now it takes about 10 sec. to line it back up once a new turning is in place and it turns nice and free now on the live center
> 
> 
> ==========


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi gregW

I was thinking about the same lines but the threaded rods would need to be left and right hand threads on the same rods, so they could move the plate in and out much like a wooden clamp works...I have a set or two of the rods for the wood clamps but I'm a bit lazzy and I didn't want to drill and tap the holes in the tail stock plates...

But if I run into a error with the way it is now I guess I will need to do that but I do like to use the KISS way most of the time...




gregW said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> got it..thanks
> 
> I was thinking that if you bolted a plate to the tailstock with two threaded holes for your tensioning rods the live center would keep its alignment to the headstock, but it sounds like your setup block is doing the same thing.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Hi Bob,
you're right 

the holes in the alignment plate would need to be a slip fit for the adjustment rods instead of threaded in order to keep it simple.





bobj3 said:


> Hi gregW
> 
> I was thinking about the same lines but the threaded rods would need to be left and right hand threads on the same rods, so they could move the plate in and out much like a wooden clamp works...I have a set or two of the rods for the wood clamps but I'm a bit lazzy and I didn't want to drill and tap the holes in the tail stock plates...
> 
> But if I run into a error with the way it is now I guess I will need to do that but I do like to use the KISS way most of the time...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just some more snapshots of the tail stock..

=========


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

I am somewhat proud to have one of the longest thread on this forum. I pick good subjects.

Hah.

Steve Bolton


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Just some more snapshots of the tail stock..
> 
> =========


Very nice BJ....I have my car apart right now (my brother and I are replacing the engine) so won't get into the woodshop this week (and I'm back to work tomorrow). 

When I do, I'm going to finish the speaker stands and get my router craft set up and give it a whirl.

Ed......


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Steve, I don't wish to take any glory from you, your thread was a very interesting one however, before the end of page two it had been hi-jacked and turned into a totally different thread, this was also very interesting but I think the forum rules dictate that this should have been a separate thread.


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

I don't care about that. My thread is a good long one. I am smart enough, I am good enough and daw gone it, people like me (Al Franken, also from Minnesota)

SB


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

gregW said:


> Hi Bob,
> Your motorized router lathe looks like a real neat tool
> 
> could you adapt the live center from the grizzly drill press lathe adapter to work with it?
> ...



That's exactly what I had in mind BJ. it looks so simple to make and anyone with no experience in turning would not have to learn a different technique.


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## laldrich10 (Jul 5, 2009)

Bobj do you know where you can find one of these now?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Larry

Sorry I don't know for sure 
I found some it AU. but the price was very high (269.00 plus shipping)

=======





laldrich10 said:


> Bobj do you know where you can find one of these now?


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Hi, Bob.

Your resources are endless, my friend.

I was asking myself where to buy these kind of knobs in my coutry but, now, to do them will be a breeze.

Thanks a lot.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Alexis

You're Welcome, it's a easy way to use up scrap stock in the shop or dead trees limbs , it's better than playing with your marbles (Game ) in the shop or at the kitchen table.  it's one of the items you can use all over the shop..


==========




papasombre said:


> Hi, Bob.
> 
> Your resources are endless, my friend.
> 
> ...


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