# Which sharpener should I buy? Advice Needed.



## creative (Aug 17, 2015)

Hello again, my sawdusty friends.

Sharpening tools by hand has always been vexing to me. There's so many methods, stones, grits, pastes, grinders, jigs, "sharpening systems," etc. Pressure here or there, this angle or that, micro bevel or no, etc. 

Yesterday it took me over an hour just to replace the blunt factory angle on a chisel with something more aggressive... so I'm now in the market for some power equipment to replace my hand sharpening.

Currently, I only sharpen blades for hand planes and flat edged chisels - no curved edges. I'll probably never attempt to sharpen my own saw blades (too complex). I might want to sharpen kitchen knives from time to time, but not very important to me. 

So here's my questions:
1) What features should I be looking for, and why? (brand, RPMs, size, water cooling, blade holders, jigs, etc.)
2) Are Tormek systems really that much better than standard bench grinders, or are they just price gouging because of their reputation?
3) Are there any smart ways to minimize cost - i.e. refurbished, ebay, online deals, etc.?

As always, thank you for your collective wisdom.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

creative said:


> So here's my questions:
> 1) What features should I be looking for, and why? (brand, RPMs, size, water cooling, blade holders, jigs, etc.)
> 2) Are Tormek systems really that much better than standard bench grinders, or are they just price gouging because of their reputation?
> 3) Are there any smart ways to minimize cost - i.e. refurbished, ebay, online deals, etc.?
> ...


in short I have the Veritas Mk II and Tormek 7...
between the two there's just about isn't anything I can't sharpen...
The Tormek isn't hype and is so far removed from a bench grinder there is no comparison...


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

the bench grinder will overheat the steel causing the hardening to weaken. DONT use it to sharpen important tools.

I have the jet version of the tormek, The stone rotates slowly and the steel is in a water bath the whole time, keeping the temp on the steel very low. Theres also a leather strop wheel.

It only takes a minute or two to get a perfect edge, rather than the endless faffing about by hand.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

The WorkSharp 3000 will do what ever you want even lathe tools. It is very easy to master,and is fast. It does a fist rate job, and you can get back to making sawdust in minutes.
If you have ever used a Drill Doctor, the 3000 works the same way, only on chisels and plane blades.. A great simple way to sharpen tools. It will do everything you have listed.

Herb


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## herrwood (Apr 19, 2014)

For hand work I use the DMT diamond stones the 6 x 2 or 8 x2 seem to b the best all around size (the are pricey) For power I find a 1 or 2 " belt sander is useful . If using a grinder use the white of pink stones.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

If you will be sharpening all day every day then a Tormek style is the right choice for you. If you will be sharpening as needed then a Worksharp is a much lower priced solution. I have noticed nothing being said about the fact that some Tormek accessories can also be used with the Worksharp.

Anyone who has used the "Scary sharp" method of glass and sandpaper sharpening will see the benefit of having a powered version. There is no issue of wheel dressing; PSA sanding disks change quick and easy plus a much wider range of grits are available. You can polish and strop on a Worksharp too.

One thing bothers me about the Tormek style systems: steel + water = rust!


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Worksharp 3000 really makes this easy. You MUST start by flattening the back of the plane. Once done you won't do it again. You can't necessarily get a sharp edge if the back is not flat.

You can change the sharpening angle on the WS3000 if you wish. It is fast. However, I also use a set of diamond sharpening devices for touchups, which is fast and easy--4-6 swipes and you have a razor edge again. Wide plane irons may not fit in the WS3000, and for these, you will need another method. But I really like the WS3000 a lot more than fiddling with glass and sandpaper.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> Worksharp 3000 really makes this easy. You MUST start by flattening the back of the plane. Once done you won't do it again. You can't necessarily get a sharp edge if the back is not flat.
> 
> You can change the sharpening angle on the WS3000 if you wish. It is fast. However, I also use a set of diamond sharpening devices for touchups, which is fast and easy--4-6 swipes and you have a razor edge again. Wide plane irons may not fit in the WS3000, and for these, you will need another method. But I really like the WS3000 a lot more than fiddling with glass and sandpaper.


a workshop 3000 costs how much in tangible and intangible dollars plus for the accessories/platens/paper (etc) to cover 80% or better of sharpening needs w/o just getting by......
what is plan ''B'' for wide irons....


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I don't sharpen plane blades, but if I did I'd opt for Scary Sharp, with a jig, or guide, to get the same angle each time. A plane blade always stays the same, always cuts on the same angle each time, so unless you're very, very, good at sharpening plane blades, I would recommend a jig or guide of some sort, doesn't need to be fancy, just work, and work right.

For lathe tools and chisels, belt sander. My theory on this is, close enough is good enough. That's because the angle constantly changes while you are using them, so you don't actually need a 100% precise angle on them. Quick resharpening, no overpriced gadgets to buy, nothing to dig out when you want to resharpen something, and no adjustments to make. That's the theory anyway. And in practice, works for me exactly the same as the theory.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> a workshop 3000 costs how much in tangible and intangible dollars plus for the accessories/platens/paper (etc) to cover 80% or better of sharpening needs w/o just getting by......
> what is plan ''B'' for wide irons....


The wide irons are sharpened on top of the disc when mounted into a regular holder like sharpening on a stone. Worksharp sells a extension table to mount on the top of the machine. to give a table surface to use when sharpening plane irons. I bought one but wasn't happy with it as is hard to keep level. But DesertRat Tom and Bill Snieder made a stand with a step up top level with the top of the disc that looks to be the way to go for a flat surface to work off for plane irons.

Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

okay...
so after accessories what is the cost..
what do the expendables add up to...


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Stick486 said:


> in short I have the Veritas Mk II and Tormek 7...
> between the two there's just about isn't anything I can't sharpen...
> The Tormek isn't hype and is so far removed from a bench grinder there is no comparison...


I HAD both the MkII and the Tormek 2000. Mk II was great for flat irons and chisels, the Tormek does a great job at turning tools.

I couldn't keep both, so I passed the Mk II on to a friend. I still can do flat irons with a rolling tool guide using the 'scary sharp' method.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Hi stick, I only have one iron that's too wide for the WS. I long ago flattened and sharpened it with the sandpaper on glass. I use a diamond block, the kind with the ovals, and a light purpose made fluid. Just a few strokes now and again to keep it scary sharp. Keep a strop for a final polish. That's plan B. Everything else fits the WS3000. The Tormek is great, its the Mercedes of sharpeners, however, I can only afford the Chevy. The picture is of the stand I made for the WorkSharp--It is square, but the phone camera distorted it. Only thing I'd change is to put an aluminum backer behind to catch the sparks. Don't like having it spew sparks around my workshop. Probably will add a couple of spring clips to the back side so I can take that spark catcher off when I'm using the top surface, just haven't gotten around to it yet.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

the impression I get that w/ the workshop there is a never ending need for supplies and after accessories the cost gets up there...
what I want to know is what is the total investment for WS and how much does it cost to keep it fed....


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> the impression I get that w/ the workshop there is a never ending need for supplies and after accessories the cost gets up there...
> what I want to know is what is the total investment for WS and how much does it cost to keep it fed....


You might not want to know. > I have heard their extras are high but then you can spend as much money as you want on just about every tool you buy.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I do all mine by hand but I do use a grinding wheel to true the ends up once in a while and that is all you should use a grinder for is to get the correct shape back. In between those times you should only need a quick honing back to sharp with water and diamond stones and sometimes special sandpaper. The dark wheels that come with a grinder should only be used to sharpen axes and lawnmower blades. For chisels and plane blades you need a white friable wheel.


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## Garyk (Dec 29, 2011)

I have a Wolverine system for turning tools w/a slow speed grinder. It works well for that purpose but there is a learning curve. A friend has the Tormek and his setup puts a great edge on turning tools albeit slower than my system but he can sharpen other items. I use the slow speed grinder & diamond grit devices for flat items. Unless you are doing production work I would recommend the Tormek. Ditto on not using the grey wheels on much of anything. There is a new wheel available (CBN $125-lifetime warranty) but I would still use a slow speed grinder with it. Most wood turners have gone to tools with replaceable carbide tips and eliminated the sharpening process.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@Stick486 I don't use up supplies very fast, so I only bought a few extra glass disks, an extra set of fines and a strop disk. Probably $120-$140 more than the base price. This is an aggressive tool on the coarser grits. Balance that against sandpaper and glass and the resultant mess and I think it's a reasonable price to pay. Yes, I have gotten along without one, but I would never have gotten round to resurrecting some of my old beater chisels with the manual system.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@DesertRatTom...

thanks...
all I'm trying to do is figure out the IRL costs of a WS and the cost run ons for it... (care and feeding)

when you change paper can the paper you removed from a platen be reused ot is it history and is all of the paper used or only a portion (sweet spot) of it...

so for you we're into around 325-350$$$


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## clutions (May 28, 2016)

Stick et. al. >

I got my WS3000 early on and can't imagine life without it. I think I've had mine since Christmas of '07. As for supplies (paper primarily), if you shop around you can find 6" PSA discs very reasonable. You'll just have to punch the hole in them. Make sure you get an 'eraser'. Let's the paper last mega times longer. You might want to invest in a Deadman foot switch. When flattening the back of chisels and plane blades it's nice to have that extra control so you can lay the blade on the wheel before engaging the motor. Eliminates those little gouges if you don't lay it on perfect. I've got all the accessories (don't you just love Christmas) and invested in the Tormex thing-a-ma-jig (sorry about the hi-tech lingo) that lets me sharpen my gouges on the top. The only other insight I can offer is that the belt appears to loosen after a some time (mine showed signs about a year or so ago). I think WS figured this would happen as the motor is mounted in slots. I'll post the "Tech Bulletin" in the manual section along with the manual.

Good luck and remember: A Dull tool is a dangerous tool.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

thanks Francis...
so how much do you think you have wrapped up in your WS...


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## clutions (May 28, 2016)

Well, if you take into account that the WS itself & the Tormex adapter were Christmas presents (That's about $270 I believe) I personally purchased the Wide Blade Adapter and the Knife Sharpener Attachment (Don't waste your money here!) and an extra glass plate I probably have a bit less that $200 over 3 to 4 years. As for consumables I either buy 6" PSA discs in bulk (I also use these on a hand block that I made from a piece of scrap oak and some rubber inner tube) or get PSA sheets and cut them to size. I also did away with the 400 grit square on the ramp (it was a royal pain in the ___). Polished it up well and use a piece of wet & dry I keep on the side of my sharpening station. I guess you would have to get up off of a bit over $300 dollars + consumables to be in the ball park. Compared to the Tormex (which is an awesome piece of equipment granted) I still haven't spent that much in the 8 years I've owned mine. Hope that answers your question?


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

*What Are You Sharpening With It?*

There are too many variables to nail down a tangible/intangible cost.

A person sharpening a lot of carving/lathe tools may use more materials (sandpaper) then someone who is touching up the occasional plane iron or chisel.

There are alternatives to PSA sandpaper available. Those who are interested may want to read through this post.

http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/84929-santas-present-work-sharp-3000-a.html

Just about every tool has ancillary costs involved over and above the initial investment. Grinders need new wheels/wire wheels, sanders need new discs and belts. Even our beloved Veritas MK II will have to have water stones replaced as they wear out. These are all ancillary costs involved in achieving a finished product.

Is the WS3000 worth it...maybe, maybe not...what is the use? Everyone would love to have a Tormek T-7, but at the current street prices I can purchase two WS3000's and a whole lot of sandpaper. Will the WS last as long as the T-7? All things mechanical will wear out and break eventually...who knows? Anyone out there run a WS into the ground, if so, how long was it in use?

For the average woodworker, who needs to set-up, flatten an iron back, repair and sharpen an occasional chisel or plane iron, the WS might be a viable cost effective solution. It is certainly a 1/3 the cost of a machine that will do the same thing and maybe a couple of more minor things for the average Joe in the basic set-up.

I personally love my WS...it has done everything that I have asked it to do so far. Admittedly, it does have some faults and limitations. What machine doesn't? Do I want a T-7? HELL, yes! Can I justify it for what I am doing presently? NO!

If I owned a lathe then I would definitely want a T-7. However, I would have to buy a jig to do gouges on the T-7...oops, another $97 from Rockler. Scissors...$54...axes...$19 from Woodcraft. 

See the point?

The Worksharp can't sharpen scissors, axes etc., but the T-7 can. But if you have the T-7 then you have to pay to play. It can get pricey quick.

Bottom line...individual choice based upon intended usage. Are there additional cost? Yes, but what tool that has a cord attached doesn't in one way or another?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Went with the WS3000 when it first came out years ago... invested somewhere between 3-400 in the sharpener, wheels and accessories as they became available. I was sold on the thing, if only for the ease of use. WS produced a decent edge with a minimal amount of work and/or instruction. I used it for several years, sandpaper was an expense, but no matter what you use, the cutting medium is going to be an ongoing expense, even diamond stones will eventually wear if you use em enough. 
I had a couple of issues with the WS, not the least of which was it just does NOT put an edge on your tools like the scary sharp method does. The WS puts on a good edge, an acceptable edge to most but it does not compare to an edge you can achieve using the scary sharp method. Having said that, you get what you work for with the scary sharp. SC takes time, it takes a working knowledge of what the hell your doing, you have to know what to expect, when to change grits....blah, blah, blah,, but once you've figured that out (as with most other systems, water stones, ceramics, diamond stones and paste etc.....) you get a superior edge. SC comes at a cost as well, I"ve got well over 250 tied up into honing guides alone. Lee Valley MKII and accessories are, IMHO as good as they get....
If its a good edge your looking for with a marginal investment, almost no learning curve and available accessories to fit most wood working tasks, the WS is not a bad way to go. I've been back to using the SC method for the last couple of years now, and my WS and all the accessories are collecting dust...Diamond stones and Ceramics have peaked my interest but there again, its an investment.... 
I would strongly suggest you take the time to read "The Perfect Edge" by Ron Hock...Explains in detail what you'd be getting into, various methods and techniques and something that alot of folks don't think about, metallurgy. Alot of folks spend alot of money trying to put an edge on something that just won't take it...kinda like putting lipstick on a pig as they say...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

TwoSkies57 said:


> I would strongly suggest you take the time to read "The Perfect Edge" by Ron Hock...Explains in detail what you'd be getting into, various methods and techniques and something that alot of folks don't think about, metallurgy. Alot of folks spend alot of money trying to put an edge on something that just won't take it...kinda like putting lipstick on a pig as they say...


I agree with everything you just said, Bill. All of the various systems have their pros and cons. Sometimes, I "thinks dat" the "experts" have conned us into believing that EVERYTHING has to be hyper sharp to work. Not the case! Watch Paul Sellers sharpen a plane iron and tell me that 220 grit isn't adequate!

Your comment on metallurgy strikes a nerve. To this day (and I'll probably upset some folks here) I won't own a Buck knife. They are hard to sharpen and won't hold a decent edge past the first use. All because of the metallurgical composition of the steel in their blades. Before the haters hate. I won't own a Case knife made past the middle '70's for the same reason. They went to off-shore steel around '78 and it was garbage. I shake my head when I look at a modern day Case knife. If I had done work like that it would have never gotten past the QC inspection.

People just don't get that no matter what you do you can't get to a really sharp edge on some things. You just have to determine how sharp is sharp for the job to be done.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

schnewj said:


> n.
> 
> People just don't get that no matter what you do you can't get to a really sharp edge on some things.


And that folks, is the absolute truth of the matter!!!!!!!!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> The Worksharp can't sharpen scissors, axes etc., but the T-7 can. But if you have the T-7 then you have to pay to play. It can get pricey quick.
> 
> Bottom line...individual choice based upon intended usage. Are there additional cost? Yes, but what tool that has a cord attached doesn't in one way or another?


I bought the T-7 to do chisels and irons and it has seen some very heavy use.......
only thing I added was an extra Universal Support for the stropping wheel...
did replace the stone, actually Tormek did that on their dime.. (only took the better part of a decade to wear it out)...
*zero *consumables (other than rouge/honing compound) and there have been no mechanical issues... 
being water cooled regrinds and heat were never an issue...


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Did not Jet at one time come out with their version of the T-7? I seem to recall seeing one in Rocklers... actually didn't look too shabby..price point was something like 100 less than the Tormek...I remember thinking that for an extra 100, I'd go with a T-7..


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Did not Jet at one time come out with their version of the T-7? I seem to recall seeing one in Rocklers... actually didn't look too shabby..price point was something like 100 less than the Tormek...I remember thinking that for an extra 100, I'd go with a T-7..


I believe many did and eventually Jet stopped offering theirs...

https://www.newwoodworker.com/reviews/jettormekcomparo.html


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

*Price Breakdown Just for Fun*



Stick486 said:


> I bought the T-7 to do chisels and irons and it has seen some very heavy use.......
> only thing I added was an extra Universal Support for the stropping wheel...
> did replace the stone, actually Tormek did that on their dime.. (only took the better part of a decade to wear it out)...
> *zero *consumables (other than rouge/honing compound) and there have been no mechanical issues...
> being water cooled regrinds and heat were never an issue...


I couldn't resist. I did a real rough CBA (Cost Benefit Analysis) Although not completely accurate it provides food for thought.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

good points...

for a WW in their 30/40's a T-7 or even a t-4 it would be a lifetime tool that would carry them to their grave...
somebody our age or Herb's and Keith's antiquity... perhaps not such a good plan....

what I was trying for was to have WS owners post what they had in their machines and what the care and feeding was costing at a best guess estimate...

my T-7, 28 years of heavy commercial use w/no additional monies spent...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> @DesertRatTom...
> 
> thanks...
> all I'm trying to do is figure out the IRL costs of a WS and the cost run ons for it... (care and feeding)
> ...



I paid $99. new in the box on Craigs List. It came with some discs. I bought the diamond discs (8) for $105 from a Lapidary Supply Co., 80 grt. to 3000 grt. The rubber 6" PSA/magnetic discs, $4.20 from a Magnetic Sign Co. 8 ea. And not sure what the 2'X2' piece of 1/2" MDO cost. I am good for my life time to sharpen anything I want to sharpen.

Anyone know what the correct angle to sharpen a knife blade?

Herb


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> I paid $99. new in the box on Craigs List. It came with some discs. I bought the diamond discs (8) for $105 from a Lapidary Supply Co., 80 grt. to 3000 grt. The rubber 6" PSA/magnetic discs, $4.20 from a Magnetic Sign Co. 8 ea. And not sure what the 2'X2' piece of 1/2" MDO cost. I am good for my life time to sharpen anything I want to sharpen.
> 
> Anyone know what the correct angle to sharpen a knife blade?
> 
> Herb


Generally, 22-1/2°


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> I paid $99. new in the box on Craigs List. It came with some discs. I bought the diamond discs (8) for $105 from a Lapidary Supply Co., 80 grt. to 3000 grt. The rubber 6" PSA/magnetic discs, $4.20 from a Magnetic Sign Co. 8 ea. And not sure what the 2'X2' piece of 1/2" MDO cost. I am good for my life time to sharpen anything I want to sharpen.
> 
> Herb


So, less than $250 invested!

Let's see...just for giggles. Three Norton wet stones, a flattening stone and a Veritas MK II ($195+$27+$70=$292). Add the mess from the water, possibly a stone holder, what is the real cost?


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

schnewj said:


> I couldn't resist. I did a real rough CBA (Cost Benefit Analysis) Although not completely accurate it provides food for thought.


Thank you for going to all that effort Bill.

I doesn't seem to matter what system one uses, they all cost in the end.

I have an old cheapie Canadian Tire sharpener where the stone is about 2" wide and runs in water. Very low RPM...I don't think you could burn steel on it if you tried.

It works surprisingly well, if a little slowly, for very little money. I think I have had this grinder for better than 15 years now and it's still running well.

No, it's not a Tormek or a WS, but for the price it's hard to beat. I don't even know if they sell this machine any more.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> good points...
> 
> for a WW in their 30/40's a T-7 or even a t-4 it would be a lifetime tool that would carry them to their grave...
> somebody our age or Herb's and Keith's antiquity... perhaps not such a good plan....
> ...


So what does that work out to? About two bucks a month? Pretty inexpensive for a top of the line tool.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

cocobolo1 said:


> So what does that work out to? About two bucks a month? Pretty inexpensive for a top of the line tool.


417.19$$$ new... TT&T...
1.30$...
some how I don't think the WS will last that long...


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> 417.19$$$ new... TT&T...
> 1.30$...
> some how I don't think the WS will last that long...


Stick, it's not only that it won't last that long, but the operating cost will get up there pretty quickly with steady use.

To my mind, if you're going to invest considerable coin of the realm in a sharpening system, you're probably going to use it often.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> 417.19$$$ new... TT&T...
> 1.30$...
> some how I don't think the WS will last that long...


I'm guessing I won't last that long...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

schnewj said:


> I couldn't resist. I did a real rough CBA (Cost Benefit Analysis) Although not completely accurate it provides food for thought.


Your efforts are appreciated...very thorough...thanks


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Anyone know what the correct angle to sharpen a knife blade?
> 
> Herb


here's what the library has...

.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

cocobolo1 said:


> Thank you for going to all that effort Bill.
> 
> I doesn't seem to matter what system one uses, they all cost in the end.
> 
> ...


Keith, you hit the nail on the head. There are so many ways to get from point A to point B. An individual has to make the choice for themselves. It doesn't matter which tool or method you use. What matters is, that, you have a way to get where you want to be. 

All sharpening methods have a consumable cost, eventually. Find what works for you and be happy is my only advice.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> @DesertRatTom...
> when you change paper can the paper you removed from a platen be reused ot is it history and is all of the paper used or only a portion (sweet spot) of it...
> 
> so for you we're into around 325-350$$$


 @Stick486 Just found this question. The wear is on the sweet spot. The thing you're sharpening indexes to the right side of the tool guide, so it is pretty much gone in that area. Since the sandpaper has a lot of metal in it, I probably wouldn't use in on wood since that could mess up a finish. I did have to make some minor adjustments to the guide angle to make sure it was cutting 90 to the edge of the chisel. One thing I really love is what it did to the iron on my block plane. 

One accessory I did buy cost maybe $6, was a small disk with V cuts in the edge cut to different angles to determine edge angles. No way I will remember the angle on every chisel or iron. 

I only use the coarse grits to grind a new edge on a trashed tool. Mostly I use much higher grits mostly because I like to keep every edge sharp as possible. A carpenter family member helped me put in double french doors who said he'd never used such a sharp chisel. That's the way I like 'em, sharp and polished.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> @Stick486 Just found this question. The wear is on the sweet spot. The thing you're sharpening indexes to the right side of the tool guide, so it is pretty much gone in that area. Since the sandpaper has a lot of metal in it, I probably wouldn't use in on wood since that could mess up a finish. I did have to make some minor adjustments to the guide angle to make sure it was cutting 90 to the edge of the chisel. One thing I really love is what it did to the iron on my block plane.
> 
> One accessory I did buy cost maybe $6, was a small disk with V cuts in the edge cut to different angles to determine edge angles. No way I will remember the angle on every chisel or iron.
> 
> I only use the coarse grits to grind a new edge on a trashed tool. Mostly I use much higher grits mostly because I like to keep every edge sharp as possible. A carpenter family member helped me put in double french doors who said he'd never used such a sharp chisel. That's the way I like 'em, sharp and polished.


what I meant was if you remove say a 220 grit from a platen and switch to say 600... can you get away with reinstalling the 220 on a platen at a later time or is that sheet history???

I believe all of us or least the vast majority of us have that gauge...

.









saw this one that looks interesting...

.










can you get away w/ using temp adhesive spray and regular paper for the PSA backing...
when I use the MkII and granite slab Saunders UHU Tac Removable Adhesive is a real plus for holding the paper in place...
reusing the removed paper doesn't work..

.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

With me I think it is the time factor more than the cost. I have a drawer full of sharpening tools, not sharp tools. 
The one I used before the WS was one with diamond stones that you slide back and forth. It does a very nice job, I think it has 4 different grts. from course to very fine. And also had a strop and diamond paste,that put a mirror finish on the blade. But it took forever, in my book "forever", is more than 4-5 minutes to sharpen a chisel. I am not one to get any type of thrill out of sharpening tools for hours on end. I like to keep my tools sharp, but dread the time spent doing it.

I have spent probably twice as much as I have invested in the WS 3000 on other methods and found nothing as fast and easy as the WS. To me it sure beats standing there for hours rubbing an edge onto a piece of steel. 

Herb


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> what I meant was if you remove say a 220 grit from a platen and switch to say 600... can you get away with reinstalling the 220 on a platen at a later time or is that sheet history???
> 
> 
> 
> ...



That is why you have dics dedicated to each grit so when it is worn out you replace the same grit on that disc. Each side of the glass plate has a sanding disc of different grit on it. So with 4 plates you can have 8 different grts. also put leather on one for a strop if you desire.

Herb


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> what I meant was if you remove say a 220 grit from a platen and switch to say 600... can you get away with reinstalling the 220 on a platen at a later time or is that sheet history???
> 
> I believe all of us or least the vast majority of us have that gauge...
> 
> ...


Oooooh! I LIKE that angle gauge. 

I can see making a simple version of that using an ordinary protractor.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> what I meant was if you remove say a 220 grit from a platen and switch to say 600... can you get away with reinstalling the 220 on a platen at a later time or is that sheet history???
> 
> .can you get away w/ using temp adhesive spray and regular paper for the PSA backing...
> when I use the MkII and granite slab Saunders UHU Tac Removable Adhesive is a real plus for holding the paper in place...


 @Stick486 Good questions. I believe you could switch out grits on a single disk, but the disks are two sided. I have 4 disks, each with its own assigned grit plus a spare, so it is much easier to just switch out disks. I also have a separate strop disk, the other side of which could be used for sharpening.

The little, round angle gauge is the one I mentioned. I looked at the Woodpecker gauge when it came out, I thought it was overkill.

After using the Scary Sharp method for years, I am able to hand hold the tool at the correct angle for the 4-6 strokes on the fine diamond device. The WS3000 sits out of the way on a jig storage shelf.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@DesertRatTom....
thanks...
getting a better feel for the WS all the time...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> @DesertRatTom....
> thanks...
> getting a better feel for the WS all the time...


 @Stick486 For a small shop used occasionally, I think it could be classified as a want rather than a need. But I think the tool makers would be out of business fast if we only bought what we need. I admit that I like having tools and lots of goodies to go with them. I went without them most of my life. Nice to have them on hand now.


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