# Adjustable Height Workstation/Router Table and more



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Recently I have been building a new mobile workstation for my small workshop (one car garage). I have built a few cabinets and needed something lower than my worktable so I can assemble the cabinet carcasses. 

So, I got to thinking. And the more I thought about it, the more I wanted to build something I can use a lot and for different things. My original thoughts and plan have gone through several iterations, mostly in my head, and while I am asleep! 

Listed below are the expectations I hope to end up achieving:

Adjustable height work table

Lowest position to be used to assemble cabinets or other projects that are too tall to assemble on the work table

Make it easy to adjust the height either when raising or lowering the top

Set the height at a comfortable height for sanding operations. Build a sanding station to clamp onto the table (future project)


Incorporate the design so the table can be positioned level with the work table (34 1/2 inches) to help support projects longer than 48 inches.


Table top size to be approx 30 x 37 inches

*Design*
With the help and advice of my friend MobilePaul, I decided to build a frame using 2x4 premium studs from the big box store. I ripped off the round edges leaving 1 1/2 x 3 inch stock with which to build. Some glue, some screws and some pocket screws and a few clamps and I wound up with a nice sturdy frame.

The top portion consists of a similar frame attached to four legs. Each leg is simply two pieces of 3/4 inch Baltic Birch glued and screwed together. One side of each leg has a routed slot in it. I drilled and installed two 3/8 inch bolts for each leg. they are glued into the lower framework. I used the Gorilla glue and they are stuck like Chuck! Some fender washers and 3/8" knobs from Woodriver (Woodcraft) round out the adjustable part. Note: When prepping for final cuts before assembling the upper frame, I put several pieces of plastic (flexible cutting board) between the frame and each leg to force a little clearance, then cut my pieces and put them together.

The 3/4 inch top will have an edge band around all four sides and filler strips underneath in between to edge and the frame. This will provide 1 1/2 inch thick edges for clamps. I plan to round off the corners and then cover the top with a piece of Formica.

To facilitate raising and lowering the table I bought a scissor jack from Harbor Freight. It is big, but I made the decision based on the fact that it came with a speed wrench and a hex head on the jack. I could hook up an impact wrench and get-after-it if I wanted to. 

I mounted the jack on a couple of 2x 6's I had laying around. A couple of pieces of scrap 1/2 inch plywood filled in the open area on either side of the jack.

After some careful measuring to determine the jacks' maximum height and it's lowest position, I fabricated a "spacer" which is working out great. I made it using more short plywood cutoffs with pocket screws and screws and glue. The jack is bolted to the frame and the spacer is bolted to the jack. I don't plan to attach the spacer to the top frame. Just no need to do it.

If you look closely at the top frame, you will see a couple of cross braces. They are attached with pocket screws only (no glue).

*Table design - rev 1* 

So there I was admiring my work when it hit me- why not install a router plate on one end?  The way the frame and cross members are placed, a router plate will fit nicely and be well supported. This a perfect opportunity to resolve some issues I have been dealing with. the opening in the Rokler plate is too small for my raised panel bit to fit through. So, I bought a Kreg plate pre-drilled for the Bosch 1617. It has a 3 9/16's inch opening so the bit will fit. It also comes with a wrench for twist lock quick insert plate changes. This should work out well.

To protect the router, I will remove it and drop in a filler plate when I assemble a project.

*Table design - rev 2* 

When I checked my email yesterday, I had received an email from Highland Woodwworking. It just so happened they have the Triton 3 1/4 hp router on sale! So I ordered it and another Kreg plate predrilled for the Triton (including the hole for the height adjustment tool to fit through.

When I started this project, all I wanted was a shorter table for assembly work. Those plans have changed dramatically. Now, I can dismantle my current router table top.

Hope you like the pictures. I will post more when I get the routers installed.
Mike


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Here are a few more.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

that's nicely thought out...


----------



## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Nice job Mike.


----------



## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Great idea, design and build Mike.


----------



## PaulH (May 30, 2012)

Mike,

Great job and is giving me lots of ideas. Thanks.
Keep the pics coming.


----------



## billyjim (Feb 11, 2012)

well thought out and executed design. I like it. Great pictures.


----------



## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Mike - that looks like you've considered many needs and expectations of future uses! It also appears you have assembled it very accurately. Sometimes, when I have built things such as this - I will also add an electrical outlet, fed with 20-25 feet of heavy gauge cord. If there are multiple cords on the floor - you can bet my clumsy butt is going to trip and hit the floor otherwise!

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


----------



## woodie26 (May 31, 2009)

What is the Height range of the table?


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

woodie26 said:


> What is the Height range of the table?


It is not finished yet but it will be about 28-30 at the lowest and near 38 at its highest.
It would have been a little lower but I added the 3/4 inch pads for the casters. I didn't like the fit and where the lag bolts would be screwed into the wood.

I will post pics of the actual min/max when I get through.
Thanks
Mike


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Very nice looking setup Mike . As mentioned , well thought up . Thanks for posting the pictures , I've got a much better idea of how you've engineered it now .
Definitely looking forward to seeing the completion . This will be in my favorites


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

You've also got me reconsidering my lowest height . I was going to a minimum of 33" when it's acting as an out feed table .But the more I think of it , when your using it's table to assemble projects it may be nice to be lower yet


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> You've also got me reconsidering my lowest height . I was going to a minimum of 33" when it's acting as an out feed table .But the more I think of it , when your using it's table to assemble projects it may be nice to be lower yet


Yes sir. I wanted a finished height of 24 inches, but it just didn't work out that way. I am adding filler strips under the edges and preparing to attach the edge pieces (after I route the edges of the filler strips flush with the top).

It is coming together slowly but surely.
Thanks for the kudos from everyone.
Mike


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Got a little more work done today on the cart. First task was to drill pocket holes in the frame (slight over-site on my part) and attach the top. I glued and stapled filler strips under the edges of the top. That will give support when I need to use clamps.

After the filler strips were attached, I ran a flush trim bit around the edge of the top. Next up I glued and stapled 3/4 x 1 1/2 inch edge band around all four edges. I double checked my portable workstation to see what radius I had cut for it. Yep. One inch radius. I marked each corner and rough cut the radius with a jig saw, then smoothed it out with the ROS.

I checked the existing height (35 1/4") and it appears I have an additional 3 1/2" which equals almost 39 inches. That is perfect for me. The worktable/outfeed table is 34 1/2" and the miter saw station is 37" so I can match both of those heights. Makes me happy.

That brings me up to current state. If it doesn't rain tomorrow, I will buy the Formica and glue it on.


----------



## mobilepaul (Apr 14, 2010)

The table is looking real good, Mike. Thanks for sharing so many pictures with us.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Top looks great . I wish I understood how to get those rounded off corners like that. There's no router bit that long is there and how does it track ? You can tell I'm a rookie

Ok I read the post better , got it lol

When you get the Formica on it's going to be awesome ! Are you going with a light color?


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Rick, I bought a set of Quick Corners two years ago. I have used the patterns many times. I am a fan of rounded corners.

A lot of folks make their own using Formica sample chips or whatever. I had other things to do so I bought this set and have been pleased.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

The top is on and the table is ready to use. Actually, I have already used it while cutting the Formica to length.

In a couple of the pics you will see my ******* saw horse cutting station I cobbled up so I could crosscut the Formica at the 32 inch mark.  Don't laugh, It worked as I expected it to. I set the track saw for a shallow cut and put a piece of foam insulation board under the Formica. I got a smooth, clean cut.

I used Weldwood contact cement to laminate the Fomica to the top. Then I used a flush trim bit to trim along the edges. It turned out nice.

Next, I will work on getting the router plates installed. But for now, the table is ready for what it was originally designed for - project assembly. As you can see in the picture, I have an adjustable working height ranging from 28 to 39 inches. That works for me.
Mike


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I guess you might be curious about the things in the back of the truck. One bag is a sand bag I used to anchor my light stands when doing strobe photography. The white bag is a canvas bag with a ten pound barbell weight in it. The tan bag is a utility bag with all of my offshore fishing weights in it...about 20 pounds worth. I didn't want to take a chance on the Formica blowing out of the truck on the way home.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Wow it looks really sharp , love the outcome of the top!! 
Have you put a straight edge on it to make sure it's dead flat , or is that even necessary ? 
Now I guess the next step is to install router plates 

I really like your range of height adjustments . I'm pretty much going to shoot for the same as I believe it would be handy to go low when building certain projects and high for routing

Speaking of routing, Mike you are going to put a router on each end right ? I was debating to have them side by side but was wondering if it would be more comfortable working off the end of the table


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Looking at your lift system makes me wonder if I'm overthinking my idea . I'm pretty impressed with your whole concept with the side knobs for locking it down and all .
Was this all your idea , or have you seen some of things implemented before?


----------



## gwizz (Mar 3, 2012)

Well Done, lots of fun thinking it through and making it come to real !

Can't wait to see the finished table with the router in it ready to go.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

The table is flat enough for me. I couldn't see any light shining under the levels, which both were level in both directions.

This isn't my first time to use a scissor jack. Here is a link to a previous project.

About an hour after I posted the pics of the table with the Formica laminated on to the top, there was a knock at the door. 

My buddy, the Brown truck driver had a package for me. A brand spanking new Triton router and Kreg plate. Whoopeee! Good times ahead for sure.

So, I spent the afternoon making a template. I put a 1/2 inch bit in a guide bushing and traced the outline of the router plate. Now I have a template to cut into the table using the same bit/bushing.

Note: I clamped the 1/4 inch mdf to my work table with a piece of foam insulation board under it. I attached the plate in position with double sided tape. That worked well.

I am now at the point of laying out the cut lines and doing the actual cutting for the plates.

Since I have never had my hands on a Triton router, I spent a couple of hours reading the manual and getting familiar with the controls. I almost got a black eye when I removed the plunge spring! :-(

I still haven't plugged it in and tested the motor.
Tomorrow should be a good day.

Mike


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Hmmm...now that I have had a few minutes to think about it, I think I screwed up making the router template. I should have used a flush trim bit and not a bushing. 

Looks like I will start over and make a new template tomorrow and go from there. Whew! I almost messed up the table.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Hmmm...now that I have had a few minutes to think about it, I think I screwed up making the router template. I should have used a flush trim bit and not a bushing.
> 
> Looks like I will start over and make a new template tomorrow and go from there. Whew! I almost messed up the table.


 I believe your doing it right . 
Now that you have gone around the perimeter of your plate , I thought that you have created a template in which you can clamp to your table and by using the same bushing on the inside of this new template it will give you the exact size for your plate? 
If that makes any sense lol . So I think your doing it right and I'm not understanding the flush mount bit though ? 

My only concern is when I do mine is to make sure that I am tight to the outside of the plate with the bushing or there's going to be a discrepancy in size of the newly made template.

I tell ya Mike , I wish we were neighbours . Dam I'd have a lot of fun learning from you !


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I think the hole will be larger all the way around by the difference between the size of the bushing and the bit.

I redo the template tomorrow. The good thing is the part I cut out (when making the template) will make one of the filler plates I can drop in when building cabinets.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> I think the hole will be larger all the way around by the difference between the size of the bushing and the bit.
> 
> I redo the template tomorrow. The good thing is the part I cut out (when making the template) will make one of the filler plates I can drop in when building cabinets.


Ok well I didn't take into account the bit . Guess I read a previous post wrong in another thread as I was hoping I had this figured out . Gotta run that scenario threw my pea brain once more 

Mike just checked out your other project thread using a jack . I'm not to swift so it took me a minute . First I thought it was a gear lol , then I had that eureka moment and realized it was a knob . Pretty cool idea  

I think we can say that you are " a Jack of all Trades "
To bad your first name isn't Jack , as this would have made for a suitable screen name


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

> I think we can say that you are " a Jack of all Trades "


Thanks. That little jack worked great. I made the knob big so it would be easy to grab and turn to make small changes.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Thanks. That little jack worked great. I made the knob big so it would be easy to grab and turn to make small changes.


Yes once I understood what it's purpose was I determined that immediately . Thought it was pretty cool personally .


I'm heading to the garage with a pencil and my new Incra plate as I want to see if using the same guide would in fact work . I can't get it threw my head so I'll do a test drawing lol


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok I'm not seeing an issue . 
Go around the perimeter of the router plate as you did creating a template that you follow again on the inside with the same size guide on the router should render the same size hole as your plate .
At least that's what I'm seeing , or am I still wrong?
Ok you wouldn't want to go all the way threw of course , just past the depth of the plate a bit so it has a ledge to sit on around the perimeter


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Ok I'm not seeing an issue .
> Go around the perimeter of the router plate as you did creating a template that you follow again on the inside with the same size guide on the router should render the same size hole as your plate .
> At least that's what I'm seeing , or am I still wrong?
> Ok you wouldn't want to go all the way threw of course , just past the depth of the plate a bit so it has a ledge to sit on around the perimeter


Look at picture #4. I think that is it. See that lip next to the plate. That is how much the template is too wide all around. That was my error. I should have used a flush trim bit. It would make th template 1/2 inch wider, then when I follow the template on the inside, it will cut the recess so it will be exactly the size of the router plate.

That is what I get for not going back and finding that post with the instructions someone posted. Ay least I caught it before ruining the table.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok maybe I am getting it now . I thought you used a straight bit Mike ? In which case there would be a lip cause the guide is keeping it out from the plate as you trace it . But when you use the same guide and straight bit on the inside of your newly made template it should be perfect ? 
I really need a freaking plunge router right now and a guide and bit to see whats going on for myself .

I may give this whole wood hobby idea up and go back to classic cars lol. How I hate grease though


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Regardless though , if I had all that labour into a table top I would be doing a test fit first on a piece of mdf .


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike I have to say that after thinking up many scenarios for having an adjustable height table that yours is about the only logical design . It's solid and cheap lol . I'm liking the cheap part . I don't mind putting out money for a really high tech setup, but within reason , and I know I'm going to surpass that by a lot. . 
I'll see what a machine shop tells me tomorrow about my acme screw idea , and if they tell me what I think there going to , I'm going to build one like yours if you don't mind a copy cat 

Btw . Mike did you consider a hydraulic jack instead of a screw jack?


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I decided on the scissor jack because I would have better control of the table position. When you lower the hydraulic jack, you have to bleed off the pressure making it sorta difficult to control the downward movement. I have a small hydraulic floor jack and that is what I ran up against. With the scissor jack, you either turn the handle one way or the other giving greater control when repositioning the table height.
Hope this helps.

Mike


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I suspected it may be better control wise . Well I'm dying to see the router plate installed!


----------



## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

MT Stringer said:


> I decided on the scissor jack because I would have better control of the table position. When you lower the hydraulic jack, you have to bleed off the pressure making it sorta difficult to control the downward movement. I have a small hydraulic floor jack and that is what I ran up against. With the scissor jack, you either turn the handle one way or the other giving greater control when repositioning the table height.
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Mike


Great table Mike--well thought out. Given the modifications you did on your Kreg pocket hole jig, i'm surprised you didn't use pneumatics!! LOL!!

earl


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Yesterday, I made a template so I could rout the plate recesses into the table top. Try as I did, I let the router get away from me and it boogered up the template. :-( Dang! Three perfect corners and one boogered.

I bought a can of Bondo All Purpose Putty and repaired the damaged template. This was my first ever attempt at using Bondo, but it was easy to mix and apply and it worked out great for me. It was ready to sand after 20 minutes, but I let it cure overnight.

Today, it was a simple matter to sand the sides flat and recreate the rounded corner with the oscillating sander.

Routing the recesses proved to be uneventful, so I now have both plates in their place. The Bosch fixed base is mounted. As soon as I can get the Triton mounted, it will be time to try them out.

I still have to work on some sort of electrical hookup for the router. I have a Kreg switch and might just buy another. I am not in a rush. I need to think it through, run the table up and down a few times and see how everything works and make sure clearances are OK.

Next, I plan to make a couple of filler plates to fill the openings when I remove the routers to assemble a project or use the table for other things. Being a nice flat surface, I am sure something will wind up on it. 

I have attached several pics showing the damaged template, the repair, and the plates inserted.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Project is complete. At least for now. I will have to work on the electrical another day. I have to finish one project, and yesterday, my job quote was accepted to build a complete kitchen.

So, today I worked on the recesses to make sure the insert plates would not sit proud of the table top. Then I drilled holes here and there around the recess lip area, installed brass threaded inserts w/ 1/4 x 20 Allen head capscrews. After 40 years, I finally found a use for those dang capscrews. I have had a box full since the early 70's.

After installing both routers, I ran the table up and down. Dang! The Triton mounts on the Kreg plate crooked and both handles hit the frame. Just when I though I had it all figured out. I can't raise the collet above the table because one handle hits the frame. That was partly the reason I bought that darned big thing. Same goes when I lower the table. There is an interference with the lower frame rail. :-(

I have run out of play time. When I need to change bits, I will lift the plate out of the hole. Both router plates fit nicely in their respective holes. I am proud of that.

I raised the table height up to 37 inches. That will be my normal routing height. Pretty comfortable for me. For project assembly work, I will remove the routers and lower the table to it's lowest position, which is about 28 inches. Maybe next year I will make a sanding box that clamps on the table and hooks up to the dust collector.

As for dust collection for the routers, access is kinda cramped. I may be able to hook up a hose to the Trition. I took the dust shield off of the Bosch and haven't put it back on.

I am reusing the fence I had on the old table. No Tee slots. I will just clamp it in place. I don't need no stinking digital something or other. After all, I am just a 2x4 kinda guy. 

Hope you like the pics and get some inspiration for your next project.
Mike


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

The good part about the two plate set-up is that you do not have to change cutters so often once the job is set up...


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike that looks just awesome with the two router plates ! Great job on the top , I'm impressed  
I should be so lucky as to pull off something that nice 


Sorry to hear about the interference issue as I never would have thought that the router bolted to the plate crooked either  It's always gotta be something I swear


On a good note though , I'm happy to hear you got the cabinet job


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

And now for an update. Today while preparing to use the Triton for the first time, I ran into a problem. The router is too big for the space it occupies! :-(

When I crank the motor up to change bits, both knobs hit the outer frame member and the plywood on top of the spacer.

After some careful measuring, I broke out the reciprocating saw and cut out a chunk of the frame member and cut off a piece of the plywood spacer. Next, I attached an additional piece of 3/4 Baltic Birch to the side of the frame to add support for the part I had cut out. Glue and screws should insure the integrity of the frame structure.

Now the router operates like it should. I didn't take any pics. I was busy enlarging the cramped quarters.

Note: The Bosch 1617 fits into its spot nicely with no cramping at all.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Glad to hear you've got most of your problems ironed out . I really think there's always going to be some issue a guys not going to anticipate when your building a table from the ground up . I know it's going to take me a minimum of two attempts and probably three to get it right lol


----------



## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> And now for an update. Today while preparing to use the Triton for the first time, I ran into a problem. The router is too big for the space it occupies! :-(
> 
> When I crank the motor up to change bits, both knobs hit the outer frame member and the plywood on top of the spacer.
> 
> ...


Mike
Did you think of removing the knobs. That's what I did with my Craftsman.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Daikusan said:


> Mike
> Did you think of removing the knobs. That's what I did with my Craftsman.


I took one off, but the other has a spring loaded clutch that let's you raise and lower the router in plunge mode. I left it alone.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

MT Stringer said:


> And now for an update. Today while preparing to use the Triton for the first time, I ran into a problem. The router is too big for the space it occupies! :-(
> 
> When I crank the motor up to change bits, both knobs hit the outer frame member and the plywood on top of the spacer.
> 
> After some careful measuring, I broke out the reciprocating saw and cut out a chunk of the frame member and cut off a piece of the plywood spacer. Next, I attached an additional piece of 3/4 Baltic Birch to the side of the frame to add support for the part I had cut out. Glue and screws should insure the integrity of the frame structure.


After making the alteration to the frame member and attaching the plywood piece, there really is no evidence of a repair job...unless you crawl underneath.


----------



## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> I took one off, but the other has a spring loaded clutch that let's you raise and lower the router in plunge mode. I left it alone.


Probably a good idea. Your solution works and looks fine.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

daikusan said:


> probably a good idea. Your solution works and looks fine.


x2


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Onward through the fog!!!

I finally got to use the table today. I adjusted the height to match the outfeed table of my planer. But before I started running a hunnert bucks worth of 4/4 rough poplar through it, I planed down the two filler pieces I made yesterday to cover the holes when I pull the routers.

I had used some 1/2 inch Baltic birch and Formica to make the inserts. Then I drilled a finger hole in the center of each one.

To plane them, I used a sled to feed the pieces into the planer. It worked perfect. No problems reducing the thickness to about 3/8 inch.

Check out the pics. They fit the openings nicely. I think this is the best job I have done with a router.

With the holes covered, I fired up the planer, and with my sweetie catching the boards, I commenced to feed them into it. Now I have a stack of not so rough poplar planed to 3/4 inch and ready to rip into pieces for face frames. I am building cabinets for my brother in laws rent house.


----------



## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> Onward through the fog!!!


Doesn't seem like there is any fog to me. If there is any, you have excellent radar. Great idea to make things multifunctional. :sold:


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Made a lot of sawdust today. Boards have been milled and glued up into panels (to make raised panels for the cabinet doors).

The table has worked great as an outfeed table for the planer. And the last panel was glued up on the table.


----------



## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Mike, my neck and back have been thinking a lot about your adjustable height table, besides its many applications, creating less strain by working at a proper height will be greatly appreciated.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Marco said:


> Mike, my neck and back have been thinking a lot about your adjustable height table, besides its many applications, creating less strain by working at a proper height will be greatly appreciated.


I hear ya. I wish I had thought about this years ago. I am seeing more benefits every day. It is quickly becoming my "go to" spot to work. But I guess any flat surface 30 x 37 gets used a lot.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I finally got to use the table for some routing. I have the stile bit in the Triton and the rail bit (for cutting the stub tenons) in the Bosch 1617. Since I only have one fence, I have to switch it between the two routers. That is no problem since I have to align the fence with the bearing on each cutter.

I also installed two Start Stop Switches (Rockler brand) and a power strip on the side of the cart. I have the switch on the left side of each end. Since I am right handed, that works out well for starting the router or stopping it with my left hand.

Tomorrow, the Triton will a get a workout cutting the stiles for the door and drawer front frames.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike your table is going to pay off in spades ! Looks great seeing it in use and your making me want to build mine sooner than later 

You have some pretty kick ass looking clamps there . I guess I had better start building up a collection of them soon. What's another G note lol


I gotta day those Triton routers look like monsters!


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I forgot to mention I have the table at it's highest setting - 39 inches. Man that makes for some easy routing. I am 5'10 (or thereabouts) if that means anything.

Rick, I have an assortment of clamps ranging from cheap Harbor Freight bar clamps to those Besseys. I got several of the Besseys when Lowe's had them at liquidation sale prices. You can never have too many clamps.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

The big Triton got a workout today making some raised panels for the cabinet doors I am building. This is the cutter I was using with the router running just under half speed.

I had my dust collector hooked up to the fence and a shop vac hooked up to the dust port of the Triton. even with all of that suction, I still had some dust/chips escape. Mainly is was escaping along the area between the fence and the table top where the board had already been cut.

Note: The Bosch VAC005 hose is a perfect fit to the dust port on the Triton.

Tonight, you can color me happy with a big smile on my face. 
Mike


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Those raised panels look great and I like how you left that ridge around the front .
Can I ask a few questions like many router bits does it take to do that ?
Are these raised panels I'm seeing a few layers glued together as they look pretty think. If not and that's one nice slab of wood and it would be extremely expensive to buy here . 

I'm assuming the large angle cut is done with one huge bit ? 

I have a feeling these cabinets are going to look amazing when there done


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> I forgot to mention I have the table at it's highest setting - 39 inches. Man that makes for some easy routing. I am 5'10 (or thereabouts) if that means anything.


Thanks Mike as I'll have to keep 39"s in mind when I design mine . Glad to hear your RT is working out for you . I suspect your next ones going to have 3 routers lol


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Those raised panels look great and I like how you left that ridge around the front .
> Can I ask a few questions like many router bits does it take to do that ?
> Are these raised panels I'm seeing a few layers glued together as they look pretty think. If not and that's one nice slab of wood and it would be extremely expensive to buy here .
> 
> ...


Rick, the raised panel is made with the cutter I linked to. Those panels over 5 inches wide were glued up from 1x6 4/4 rough stock that I had milled, jointed and glued. Those less than 12 1/2 inches wide were run through the planer until they were smooth on both sides and 3/4 inch thick. I have several that will have to be sanded on the drum sander because they are too wide for the planer.


----------



## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

The doors and set up look great


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Mike I found these rails from kreg kinda interesting . There not miter slot rails or a channel but more of a piece that you can put on the end of a router table that kregs clamps can secure to called a Klamp trak. Do you think they would get in the way if they were on the ends of your table as I thought they could come in handy when using the router table to build things on
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.kregtool.com/store/c34/clamping-accessories/p69/klamp-traktrade/


That is what I have on my work bench. I started with one, then added a second. They are a real pain to install, especially since my workbench table is almost 2 inches thick. You have to drill two rows of holes for the bolts the fit through the table from above. The heads of the bolts fit in the track on each side. It is not easy to get all of those bolts into their respective holes, but it can be done. So, you only have one center track for clamps, stop blocks etc.

Here are a few pics of the track in action.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Wicked Mike . I never realized you used them . So on your double router table you can't see any point ?
I seen them a few months ago at Windsor Plywood and thought they were a neat idea for securing things as my RT will double as an out feed table and a project assembly work station


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok the more I look at your work bench the more beneficial I see it is to have multiple channels in different locations .
Maybe I should just build 2 separate benches and call it a day


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

What purpose do the holes have a Mike , those fairly big ones spaced evenly apart on the table? I suspect it's for putting a dowel in to hold things against or a jig fits in them?


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I read on amazon that people's biggest complaint was getting all the holes spaced 4 " apart was a real pain . I was thinking about this and what if a guy used a router for the drilling . If the router was following a straight edge and a person made 4" jigs to space it right it could be done accurately I guess .
I seen some really sweet work benches with it and they did three sides.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Check out Ron Paulks videos on You Tube. You will get inspired!!!

And then there are these projects.
Kreg Clamping and Assembly Table - by KCoombs @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

New table in the shop - by Mike Merzke @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

My Workcenter - by Tom Pritchard @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

jobsite folding workbench - by Greedo @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

And my mobile workstation. 
Mobile Workstation - by MT_Stringer @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Wow Mike I'm loving that 4'by8' work table . I can see this is going to be a long adventure .
So many options !


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Wow Mike I'm loving that 4'by8' work table . I can see this is going to be a long adventure .
> So many options !


ha ha ha. This could drive you crazy!


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok I hate to admit this but I just found out why people have holes all over their table , for bench dogs . Believe it or not I didn't know that till I watched some YouTube videos after seeing the terminology being used at Kreg . 
Gotta have those plus the vises mounted on the sides !


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Ok I hate to admit this but I just found out why people have holes all over their table , for bench dogs . Believe it or not I didn't know that till I watched some YouTube videos after seeing the terminology being used at Kreg .
> Gotta have those plus the vises mounted on the sides !


and other things...
http://www.woodworkingcafe.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=54&d=1328227970


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

And now for an update. All parts for the cabinets I am building have been milled - planed rough stock, ripped and routed. The face frames are complete (except for one big one). The raised panels for the doors have been routed, and the doors assembled.

So, now it is time the real work starts. I bought some sheet goods and cut them to rough size, then made a final cut on each piece for the first four cabinets.

What does this have to do with the adjustable height work table, you ask? Well, I am getting to that.

For the past week, the table has been at it's highest position of 39 inches. That certainly made the routing easy on the back. With all of that work done, I pulled both routers and put the blanks in the holes. The table was then lowered to assembly height, which turns out to be 28 inches from the floor.

Lowering the table was a snap, but I did manage to make it difficult. :-( The lowering part was smooth. The fact that I had electrical cords in the way and two router fences under the table that also got in the way, made it interesting. But, I got it and it was ready to go.

Today, I assembled the first of 9 cabinets. Even though the first one was a shorty (goes above the refrigerator), it was still easy to work on. At 38 inches wide, I had to work on it at an angle but I didn't have any problem. Having that overhang makes it easy to clamp the thing so it doesn't move around.

My sister in law said no shelf for this cabinet but I didn't believe her. I drilled the shelf pin holes anyway and threw in a half shelf. Still room for a big gumbo pot! And the shelf can fit on either side. I have some edge banding to dress up the shelf edges.

Note: In case you are curious, the cabinets will be painted. The boxes are 3/4 inch birch for the sides, top and bottoms and 1/2 inch birch for the backs. Everything is glued and nailed with an 18 ga brad nailer. I kept everything in the clamps for an hour so the glue would have time to set up. A little filler for the nail holes and it will be time to give it a little sanding and then attach the doors.

More tomorrow...

Did I mention I am loving this table? 

Thanks for checking out the pics.
Mike


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Awesome Mike ! Sure looks like you've got one hell of a nice system going . I'm not known for my organizational skills lol .
Your table looks kinda neat with the routers removed and the plates set in place .

It always amazes me when I hear cabinets are painted instead of stained? Just seems like a waste is all


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> It always amazes me when I hear cabinets are painted instead of stained? Just seems like a waste is all


Well, it is their choice. And it is a rent house. Archie said he can repaint whenever it is needed.


----------



## BCK (Feb 23, 2014)

thx for sharing...


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Another cabinet went together smoothly today. This one is a wall cabinet (32 inches wide x 38 inches tall). I am pleased the way this table turned out.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

You're doing well, Mike......VBG

Now aren't you glad you got rid of that camera gear.......just kidding...


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

There are many times when I wish I had two router setups.

Very nicely done!


----------



## compressorguy (Jul 14, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> And now for an update. All parts for the cabinets I am building have been milled - planed rough stock, ripped and routed. The face frames are complete (except for one big one). The raised panels for the doors have been routed, and the doors assembled.
> 
> So, now it is time the real work starts. I bought some sheet goods and cut them to rough size, then made a final cut on each piece for the first four cabinets.
> 
> ...


Sounds like the table was time well spent!


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

compressorguy said:


> Sounds like the table was time well spent!


Yes sir. It is the best piece of equipment in the shop/garage.

The recent kitchen island proved that beyond a shadow of a doubt. Without the work table, I couldn't have put the cabinet together as easily as I did. It is level with my work bench/outfeed table.


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

MT Stringer said:


> and other things...
> http://www.woodworkingcafe.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=54&d=1328227970


Isn't that for a drill press table?

Not saying it could not do double duty.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

My current project is 90 inches tall. I have been working on it by laying it down. It takes up most of the table saw surface, all of the workbench and part of the adjustable height table. I just loosened up the knobs, and played with the jack until I got the top level with the workbench. Snugged the knobs, and Voila! A long work area. :wink:


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike that adjustable height system you created is paying off in spades 

Your going to motivate me yet lol


----------



## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

MT Stringer said:


> It is not finished yet but it will be about 28-30 at the lowest and near 38 at its highest.
> It would have been a little lower but I added the 3/4 inch pads for the casters. I didn't like the fit and where the lag bolts would be screwed into the wood.
> 
> I will post pics of the actual min/max when I get through.
> ...


Mike you come up with more good ways of doing things than most anyone I know. I really like your assembly table.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

The benefits of dual routers...

I am working on a project that requires a flush trim bit and a 1/8th inch roundover. I have one bit mounted in each router and the cutter height set for both. My work space is cramped , but I will make do. As long as I can safely operate the routers, I will be OK...and maybe run the CNC at the same time. Noisy, but I have ear plugs and ear muffs.

Multi-tasking for sure.:grin:


----------

