# Miter channel or no miter channel?



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

Okay, I'm about to build a router table. I like the plans for Norms with the drawer and so forth, but I also looked at one at Woodworking. org that looks pretty nice, although it is way bigger than I would want. Norm's has a miter channel and T-slots for the fence. The Woodworking one has neither. I like the fence system on the latter one, the clamp part anyway, and may go that route. My experience with T-slots on the last table I built was that they tend to fill up with sawdust and become a pain to adjust, so I like the idea of no T-slots.

Now, for my question: should I put in a miter channel or not? I've never had one without, so I don't know if I'd like it or not. I suppose I could build without, then add it later if I thought I had to have it, but I'd kind of like to know the pluses and minuses before I begin.

Let the opinions rain down, guys!

Thanks!


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

30coupe said:


> Okay, I'm about to build a router table. I like the plans for Norms with the drawer and so forth, but I also looked at one at Woodworking. org that looks pretty nice, although it is way bigger than I would want. Norm's has a miter channel and T-slots for the fence. The Woodworking one has neither. I like the fence system on the latter one, the clamp part anyway, and may go that route. My experience with T-slots on the last table I built was that they tend to fill up with sawdust and become a pain to adjust, so I like the idea of no T-slots.
> 
> Now, for my question: should I put in a miter channel or not? I've never had one without, so I don't know if I'd like it or not. I suppose I could build without, then add it later if I thought I had to have it, but I'd kind of like to know the pluses and minuses before I begin.
> 
> ...


Hi Russ - Welcome to the forum
Like you said, you can always put one in - takin one out?.. maybe not so easy.


----------



## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I have one and use it from time to time, well maybe just a couple times in two year. I will probably put one in again when I re-do my top.


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

I put a combo miter/T-Track strip in my table, along with T-Tracks in the fence face. I use both horizontal and vertical feather boards often, so they both come in handy.


----------



## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

My RT fence is made from extruded aluminum with t track on the top and face as part of the extrusion. Great for feather boards.
As to the table, no t track or miter track. I still use feather boards. I just clamp them to the table. 
As far as operations normally aided by a miter gauge (coping, etc) I use sleds that ride against the fence. 
With a miter gauge in a track used for coping, the fence must be absolutely parallel to the track. My router fence seldom is and I'm too lazy to make it so each time I cope a frame.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

Just a note about the coping sled ,,,it doesn't need to be absolutely parallel to the fence, here's a little trick,,once you zero out the bearing on the bit move the fence back just a little bit say about 1/16" back, the bearing on the bit will keep it just right...many do like to use the coping sled to be safe..with a piece of laminate as a gauge you can just slide the stock up to the fence and lock the stock in place and than just pull it out b/4 making the pass..

I do it all the time with short/small parts ..

==========



Gene Howe said:


> My RT fence is made from extruded aluminum with t track on the top and face as part of the extrusion. Great for feather boards.
> As to the table, no t track or miter track. I still use feather boards. I just clamp them to the table.
> As far as operations normally aided by a miter gauge (coping, etc) I use sleds that ride against the fence.
> With a miter gauge in a track used for coping, the fence must be absolutely parallel to the track. My router fence seldom is and I'm too lazy to make it so each time I cope a frame.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> HI
> 
> Just a note about the coping sled ,,,it doesn't need to be absolutely parallel to the fence, here's a little trick,,once you zero out the bearing on the bit move the fence back just a little bit say about 1/16" back, the bearing on the bit will keep it just right...many do like to use the coping sled to be safe..with a piece of laminate as a gauge you can just slide the stock up to the fence and lock the stock in place and than just pull it out b/4 making the pass..
> 
> ...


Wow, do I have a lot to learn here. I have no idea what you just said. :sad:

I don't have, nor do I know how to use a coping sled. I'm afraid your pictures didn't help me much. Where is your router bit? Does the sled slide against the fence? 
:help:

I made a box jig similar to the one Steve Maskery made, but due to the crappy surface of my aluminum Craftsman router table. I had to modify it by adding a piece of hardboard for the sled. It worked, sort of. I still need to make some mods so I can adjust it more precisely. I may end up with something like the Oak Park ones, though I'll probably make my own. Then I wouldn't need the miter channel. 

Thanks, guys. Keep the suggestions coming.


----------



## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

In a cast iron table, yes. In a wood composite table, no. The mitre groove will weaken the table and may cause it to distort.


----------



## Tempest (Jan 7, 2011)

Mike Wingate said:


> In a cast iron table, yes. In a wood composite table, no. The mitre groove will weaken the table and may cause it to distort.


I generally agree with this depending on how thick the top is and how well it is braced from the bottom.

I have a phenolic top (3/4" thick) without a miter channel and it is kind of a pain not to have something to easily attach feather boards to.


----------



## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Russ:

Welcome to the Router Forums!

A miter track is purely optional and a matter of personal choice. Some like the facility of using a miter track. Others (like me) don't have them and do okay without them. One can easily do the same tasks, albeit maybe slightly differently, without the miter track.

Cassandra


----------



## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

Gene Howe said:


> As to the table, no t track or miter track. I still use feather boards. I just clamp them to the table.


How far is the C/L of the router to the edge of your table? 


For those of you that installed your own miter channel, How far from the C/L of the router did you locate it? Also how far away from the table's edge.


----------



## ThunderBill (Dec 17, 2008)

My router table is very simple and probably crude by most standards but it does the job with the help of a UHMW fence mounted on an Incra-jig. The fence has a sliding dovetail on top that guides a coping sled and holds stops and such. Although I don't have one I think there might be a fingerboard attachment for it also. The few times I've needed the service of a miter slot the dovetail has worked perfectly to guide the coping sled whether I was coping a rail or cutting box joints. 

The Incra-jig provides precise and repeatable fence positioning. Its slotted mounting holes allow fine tuning to align the fixed increments of the jig to any position.

This may not be the ideal setup for all purposes but it has worked for me for over twenty years. If I find the time it's overdue for an upgrade.

When you come right down to it, having a miter slot in a router table seems like overkill but it really is a matter of personal choice.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

dwall174 said:


> How far is the C/L of the router to the edge of your table?
> 
> 
> For those of you that installed your own miter channel, How far from the C/L of the router did you locate it? Also how far away from the table's edge.


Hi doug - If you are going to put in a miter channel, I would recommend no more than 6" from the centerline of the cutter. Much further than that and most commercial featherboards won't reach narrow stock. Also, some commercial jigs require a specific distance. Rockler, for example, requires a miter track 4-1/2" to 6-1/4" from the center of the bit for their box joint jig. Distance from table edge is pretty much irrelevant


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

_Now, for my question: should I put in a miter channel or not? I've never had one without, so I don't know if I'd like it or not. I suppose I could build without, then add it later if I thought I had to have it, but I'd kind of like to know the pluses and minuses before I begin._

You could use a mitre sled held against the fence instead of one running in a slot.


----------



## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

jschaben said:


> Hi doug - If you are going to put in a miter channel, I would recommend no more than 6" from the centerline of the cutter.


Thanks that will help me figure out where I install my router plate.



jschaben said:


> Distance from table edge is pretty much irrelevant


 I was wondering of the distance from the C/L to edge because of the ability to clamp feather boards or possibly using the edge as a indexing point if no miter chanel is used.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

dwall174 said:


> I was wondering of the distance from the C/L to edge because of the ability to clamp feather boards or possibly using the edge as a indexing point if no miter chanel is used.


I guess I thought you were planning on using the miter track for the feather boards. I guess how far back the bit goes from the edge of the table depends on what you're doing. If doing the ends of longer boards, further back gives more support on long stock. If you are trying to put sliding dovetail dividers in drawers, you may want it further forward to gain fence travel behind the bit. I like 'em in the center. Finally realized I'm not gonna get the best of all worlds, just tryin to avoid the worst of any of em


----------



## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

jschaben said:


> I like 'em in the center. Finally realized I'm not gonna get the best of all worlds, just tryin to avoid the worst of any of em


Yea I'm pretty sure that’s the way I'll go also, Just looking at my options before I start cutting!

Thanks Doug


----------



## AlTep55 (Nov 23, 2010)

Before I equip table with anything, I ask myself: 
How much time and resources I should spend on building it?
How often will I use it?
If I will not use it very often, what the unique advantage will I have installing it?

The answers on these questions are giving me pretty well weighted "yes" or "no".
I hope it will help.


----------

