# Some of the things I'm working on



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Figured that'd be a good title, as I hope to add more to this thread. 

Awhile back I ran across this on making yardstick canes. Walking cane made from yardsticks The yardsticks are 1/4" thick and he just glued two of them together. Didn't like that at all, don't figure it's stout enough for heavy use, especially as I broke what I thought was a sturdy wood sapling cane, air dried about 10 years, when I fell on it after slipping on a slippery step. Snapped it in two like a toothpick. So first I tried my usual two layers of 1/2" plywood, and a yardstick on each side. The yardsticks I got were 1/8" thick. Eh, too thick really, but really, really, stout. First picture.

Then decided to try a couple of yardsticks from Lowes, 1/4" thick, and just one 1/2" plywood. Came out great, after trimming the shaft is 1" X 1 1/4", and sturdy as can be. Second picture is the cane master tacked to the cane blank, ready to be routed out. Third picture is my finished yardstick cane. I have two more just needing a bit of sanding, shortening to 37", from 38 1/2", and a tip put on. I'll be making more canes in the future, with similar shafts, of two layers of 1/2" plywood, but different handles. Next one up is a turtle cane, I'll post pictures of it.

Also I'm making very nice progress on my piggy bank, with lessons learned from my monster truck banks. Hopefully I'll make new mistakes, if I make any, and not just repeat the ones on the truck bank. What I call my masters, other people may call patterns, templates, or whatever. I make mine out of 1/2" plywood, then glue that to another piece of 1/2" plywood, rout it using the first piece as the guide, and wind up with a 1" thick master. I prefer using nails to fasten this to the piece being routed, using 1 3/4" sinker nails, so drill nail pilot holes all around the router edge of the master. For this bank the sides are all 3/4" wide. The picture is of the first master, which will be used for routing the outside pieces - leaving the center uncut - and what I call the inner pieces, outside routed the same as the outside pieces, but with the inside cut and routed. This master is tacked to the first part of the piece that will wind up being the master for the center piece, with a brace inside running from front to back, and the pig snout. The inside and out side are not routed in the photo. Fourth photo.

I got the outside, and the top and bottom routed out, leaving the rough brace. For the brace, when the master was removed, I tacked a straightedge in place, and routed the brace along the top line I had laid out previously, then the bottom line. Worked like a charm. Also routed a small dimple in the top of the bank, to show where I wanted to later cut the coin slop, but now thinking I may move that a couple of inches forward, so will make another dimple later. And at the outside bottom, used a straightedge again, to rout a 1/4" deep part, to show me where I want to put the slot for coin removal - saves measuring again. I had thought about pasting my snout pattern on a separate piece of wood, cutting it with the scrollsaw, and gluing it in place. But, no guts, no glory, so tacked the master back in place - the nail holes in the center piece made that very easy and accurate. Sketched the snout out, then free hand routed the snout, verrry carefully routed the snout. And it came out quite well, I'm happy. Just needs a bit of sander and it'll be good to go. Fifth photo. Next step will be to use that to mark out the inside, and outside, then dill some holes for the sabre saw, rough cut the outside and inside, glue them together, then rout out a complete master. And then drill more pilot holes, using the nail holes already there, so no marking out of holes again. Yay. By this time I was feeling a bit worn out, so called it a night.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The yardsticks make interesting looking canes Theo.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> The yardsticks make interesting looking canes Theo.


Thanks, I'm quite happy with the ones I have done, with the 1/2" core for strength that is. Easy enough to make, you can see the master i use in the second photo above. I got seven 1/4" yardsticks at Lowes for $5.16, tax included, that's enough for three canes, cutting one up into six lengths, for the handles. I routed the edges on the first one with my 1/2" bit, worked very well, but a PITA adjusting the router lower. Next two tried my 1/4" bit (those are bit sizes, cutting length on both is 1"), which worked well on the pine. I'm thinking of using thinned Titebond II as a finish on the cane I'm using now, I've used it before on other projects and it's very durable and lasting, gives sort of a yellowish, plasticish, finish. On the last two, will be going with lemon scented furniture polish.

Got started cane making when the joints got bad enough I could use one at times. Bought the first couple, would lose one eventually. Made a great one out of oak flooring, but eventually lost that too. Then when to the sapling canes, and you read what happened with that. Had a spare few, so no big problem. But wanted stronger, so developed my plywood canes. I don't actually need a cane most of the time, but when I do, I need it right then, not in the house, or vehicle, so I'm very happy to take one with me everywhere. Handy for hooking stuff off the back of those high grocery store shelves too, the stuff that is just out of reach, and you can't climb on anything.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Today photo one shows the rough cutout of the first half of the master for the ears, eyes, and feet. A straightedge is tacked on the bottom, so the bottom of both feet will be exactly the same angle, no fiddling later. A lot of nails, because I figure at this stage overkill is best, I don't want anything slipping, and making me start over. You can see the holes I drilled for inserting the sabre saw to cut out the inside. Lots more than I normally use, but I just felt like drilling holes today. And, may keep on doing it, because it made the inside cutout easier, and faster, and the holes don't take any extra time in the end.

Photo two is the same, but laid down, so you can see the straight edge tacked in place. 

Photo three is of the roughed out master half with the outside master tacked in place, ready to rout to a finish. You can see that the bottom of the feet came out very nicely. When I rout around the outside, I will leave some wood around the legs/feet so I can go back and put in detail later, same with the ear in the upper right. The eye will just be a 1/8" rout an inch long, placed so it will wind up maybe an inch above the snout. I will mark that, then tack a small straight edge in place, and rout that. I could get by with probably half the nails that are in there. But I'd rather have too many in than not enough, this will insure nothing moves, I'd really hate to have to do a bunch of that over again. Some is good, more is better, overkill is just enough.

Tonight I brought in the routed half for the snout piece, and will be gluing that to the rough cut half for the same, then finish rout tomorrow. 

This is much easier explaining what I'm doing and how than it was with the truck bank. Easier on me anyway, don't know if anyone else understands it. :sarcastic:

Feel free to ask questions.

Dang. Forgot the pictures, and had to go back and add them. Ah well.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Ack, I crippled my pig. Got the snout master nicely routed, now just need to drill the nail pilot holes.

But while I was carefully routing out on the ears/eyes/legs master half, got distracted, and routed into the top of one leg. So decided it was best to just take them both off. Got the rest of the outside nicely done, including the ear, after some more careful routing than I had done on the legs. Inside routed too. Then proceeded to make two new legs. They're in the picture, with the body, both standing on the piece that the two will be glued to for a complete master. After I took the picture I rough cut the inside, and outside, and brought all in the house for gluing up. I'll glue them in a bit, then tomorrow finish rout, and then all three of my masters will be finished, with the exception of drilling a batch of nail pilot holes. Bleah. Going along quite well, mostly. :wacko:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Got the legs master routed out today, went nicely. Kinda wish I'd put the eye down about half an inch, but no biggie. Here that master and the snout master are clamped together to see how they look, and I'm quite happy. Finished rounding the edges on one of the two remaining yardstick canes, and put a tip on it. I will be putting a coat of thinned Titebond II on it, the one I have been using I will put some lemon scented furniture polish on it, and see how they compare. The last one will get the better finish, once it is completed. The masters are all finished now, except the last two still need the nail pilot holes drilled, maybe tomorrow.

Also glued two strips of 1/2" plywood together, with two layers of popsicle sticks together, which puts it at just a hair over 1 1/8" wide, not even 1/64" wider, which puts it just where I want it, that will be used to space my fence from my saw blade, for sawing the inner cutouts into strips for use making chess piece masters, chess pieces, the bases for them, and bank making. 

Started planning my glue jig also, but not sure yet just what way that will go. In fact, probably won't know until I actually start working on it, and won't guarantee I will know how I will actually do it even then. Zen woodworking. It will work tho, and work well, I've made them before, just not quite the size this one will be, good for piggy banks, or truck banks.

Looking at the master, this morning before it was finish routed, gave me an idea for a wooden gun carrying case that I've been pondering for awhile. Now if I could just think of some type of wooden latch, to keep it closed - I would like to make one with absolutely no metal parts at all, no nails, no nothing, just wood and glue. I don't want anything that involves a loose part, I want nothing that can be lost or misplaced. 

TV died yesterday. Printer won't print. Had enough money to get one of each today. Life is basically good. :yes4:


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

*Latch*



JOAT said:


> G
> 
> Now if I could just think of some type of wooden latch, to keep it closed - I would like to make one with absolutely no metal parts at all, no nails, no nothing, just wood and glue. I don't want anything that involves a loose part, I want nothing that can be lost or misplaced.
> :yes4:


You could use a slide type latch, could be a dovetail or a stepped keyway type design. Keeping them closed might be tricky with no metal. Some rare earth magnets embedded and glued into the latches would hold them.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> You could use a slide type latch, could be a dovetail or a stepped keyway type design. Keeping them closed might be tricky with no metal. Some rare earth magnets embedded and glued into the latches would hold them.


Yeah, I've been thinking along those lines, but unless I had a piece of string on each one, I don't see any way of not risking losing them. I've seen gun cases with sliding latches, but don't know what they look like on the inside. I'm thinking I might be able to come up with something like that, but it'd wind up pretty bulky.

Last night I think it was, I had an inspiration. A long strip of plywood on the inside, fastened only in the center, below the handle. Then each end would act like a flat spring, and have a button on each end to push. This is still sloshing around in my mind, but think it has possibilities. May have to have a smaller button on top of a larger button, then a slot in the opening side, to allow it to open. All wood, no metal parts, and no loose parts to lose - if it works. That seems to be less Rube Goldbergish that most of my thoughts on this. 

I've thought of magnets too, but I just want to see if I can do it with no metal of any type at all. I may get impatient in the meantime and make one that does have metal of one type or another, time will tell. Keeps my mind active at least. :yes4:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Today was a good day in the shop. Nothing productive enough to really take pictures of, but got a quite good start on my glue jig for the bank - much simpler than I had originally envisioned, and better too. 

Found a smaller rasp I had forgotten I had, and it works ever so much better, faster, easier, at rounding the bottom of my canes to put a tip on than the one I was using. I had a golf ball already drilled, so took off it's tacky plastic handle, and whacked the golf ball on the tang. Perfect now. It's in the photo. 

The glue was set on the saw spacer, so marked that with what it was for, and SAVE in caps. That will prevent me from accidently tossing it. Also in the picture.

And, I found some of what I call my whackers. They are actually masters for making chess pieces, that I made a few years ago, then never made a set with. The only problem was, with the bases I had for them, they wound up being way too large, and would need a huge board. I never tossed them, and ran across them a few days ago. And they work absolutely great for whacking stuff. Two inches wide, the bottom is about five inches long, and three layers of 1/2" plywood glued together. Nice weight, and if I ever need more, plenty easy to make out of scrap. Three of them in the picture.

Almost forgot. Checked on-line on how many cubic inches a gallon is, 231 apparently; and how to figure cubic inches. Multiply width (14") by height (7.5"), this give square inches, then multiply that by depth (11" as planned) which give 1155 cupic inches. Divide 1155 by 231, and you get 5. So, if the bridge were not inside the bank, the corners were square, and the coin holder thingie not sticking up, it comes to 5 gallons capacity. Wow. Not sure just how much the corners, etc., cut into that but I figure not more than a quart, max. So it seems pretty safe to say that the piggy should be able to hold at least 4 gallons, 3 quarts, of coins. .


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Nothing really worth photos yesterday and today, but making progress. Got the last pieces glued on the glue jig, so will be usable tomorrow. Finished up my turtle cane handle master (almost), but screwed up the location of the shaft on it, so had to glue 3 layers of popsicle stick on one side, will hit it a bit with the sander tomorrow. Also got a dog handle cut out, but had to glue a bit of plywood where I took a bit too much off, so need to trim that, then glue it to another piece of 1/2" plywood. And got my buzzard handle master routed out today, looking good. Still didn't feel like drilling the nail pilot holes in my last two pig masters, but got to do that soon, because once I get my new cane shaft master done it'll need pilot holes drilled too, a lot of them, along with the handle masters. Need to get on my chess pieces too, cut them out, and make masters, which is a tad bit more complex then just cutting out a figure, gluing it to another piece of plywood, then routing. I 'will' take pictures of how that is done, so anyone can make their own, if they are so inclined. I really, really, like working with half inch plywood. Life is basically good. :yes4:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Ah. Adventures in woodworking. My glue jig had the final piece glued in yesterday, and since there was no glue runout I used my larger sander to hold it in place, did it just right. And today when I went to pick up the sander, it wouldn't move. Huh? After a few steadily increasing power yanks, it came loose. Turned out the glue runout occurred 'after' I set the sander in place. The Gods will have their fun. It was a section of the sandpaper that got glued, so a few minutes with my pocket knife and it cleaned up nicely, no prob. 

Got several cane handles cut out. They still need a bit of sanding before they're glued down on the other piece of plywood to rout masters out. Got a fair start on making some masters for my chess pieces too, I want to get those done so I can get out some chess and checker sets for Toys For Tots this year, wasn't able to get to it last year. And, of course, then could not find the piece with the chess patterns glued to it, so I could cut them out. Not a clue where those got to, was in plain sight two days ago. Did get a start on my new cane shaft master also, once that's finished up, I'll be able to make canes up to 48" long. :lol: Realistically I will be making canes 37", which I find to be the ideal length, unless someone asks for one shorter (for children say, or shorter people - I'm 5'7"), or longer, up to about 40". The so-called 'guides' for cane length claim that 37" is way too tall for someone of my height, but my test cane started out at I believe 40", which I didn't much care for, but I cut it down a bit at a time - my previous cane was 36" - and 38" 1/2" is not bad, but 38" is noticibly better for me, and 37" feels too darn good to chop it down anymore. I like a bit of bent in my elbow, so I've got some 'push' I can use. Shorter and the ability to push just gets cut down. I've rough cut the shaft blank, I'll rout the rough side straight tomorrow probably, then glue it down, with a couple of modifications at the same time, then final rout it. Then, viola, a new, and improved, cane shaft master - after I drill another slew of nail pilot holes that is. 
:moil:

Here's a picture of my glue jig, the side is two layers of 3/4" plywood glued together, they were cutouts from the truck bank build. Overkill, but by gluing two together, they would stand by themselves. The end is another 3/4" cutout, backed by a glue block cut from one of the discarded bank masters; in the photo it lookes like it is leaning, and at an angle from the side, but it is straight up and down, and at a 90 degree angle from the side. There's three of my recent cane handles on it, dog, buzzard, turtle. The second picture is the jig again, with three more handles, rabbit, whale, elephant. :thank_you2:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

More adventures in woodworking. Yesterday was in the 60s, compared to the days in the 80s we had been having. None the less, got in the shop and did some small things that added up to a fair amount accomplished overall. Then was going to cut out my chess pieces, so I could move on that project. No piece of wood with the paper patterns glued on. Anywhere. They'd been there two days ago, now not. I've kept the shop locked, and I should have the only two keys, so I should be the only one having access. Makes me wonder tho. Never anything large, just small things come up missing, sometimes I find them later, others not.

So, found the copy of the patterns I'd previously scanned. My printer/scanner stopped printing a few weeks ago. I had finally gotten a new one, earlier this week. Prints slower than any printer I've seen yet, but does an excellent printing job. From that was able to see the size of the patterns, they had originally been laid out on graph paper, so laid them out again, with some modifications to make routing them a bit easier. Now, just needed to scan them, for posterity. The new printer is a printer, it does not have scanning capability. Ack. Wish I'd noticed that before I bout it. Ah well, what's history is history, so I took a photo of the patterns. And a photo. And a photo. And more photos, until I 'finally' got a decent looking one. Not the best, but clear enough I can easily lay out new patterns if the need ever arises again. Brought a piece of plywood back to the house, so I can glue them on it later. Losing the old patterns is actually a good thing, because when I looked at the printout I saw that a lot of extra work would have been needed to rout them out well, including going over them with a 1/4" bit. The mods will allow just using my 1/2" bit, with no cleanup after. So, life is basically good after all. The new patterns. 
Supposed to be in the 60s again tomorrow. Starting to think I should have stayed in the house today, after that cool air, not feeling that great.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Ah, got in shop time today. Supposed to have been in the 80s today, but more like 70s I'm thinking, but nicer than yesterday, and nicer than tomorrow is supposed to be, 60s again. Got a lot positive done in the shop, nothing worth photos of, and for now, just been sitting, relaxing listing to easy listening on youtube. You've gotta love youtube. Have a listen. Clanadonia - " Hamsterheid " - YouTube

Did get the chess pieces rough cut off the piece of plywood they were on. Have them in a large plastic container, along with my cane tips. Easy to lose a small piece, not easy to lose a large container. Hope to start getting them finish cut tomorrow. Also got a start on my chess masters, where these pieces will go, but found I need to make a minor adjustment on the width. No biggie, should be able to do it tomorrow, no prob. Actually, I'll be making a master, to make the chess master. Photos when I get started doing that, and it'll all be clear. Clearer. Possibly clear. Still need to make an accurate octagon, so I can make a master for that also, and start pumping out octagons for chess piece bases, and checkers.

Do want to get going on the chess pieces, but main priority is cane making just now. Figured out I need to make a handle master, for each type of handle, but I already knew that; however, the ones I have already cut out will need modifying on the handle part. Which will not be a biggie, but a bit of a PITA possibly. Just need to decide how I want to do it. The previous cane shaft master was one piece, and the handle master fitted to it, then both tacked/nailed down, and a cane blank routed out. The top of the shaft master had/has a 'lozenge' on it, for extra space so the owner can put some personal things if desired. I didn't like the shape and size of that, so decided to change it. But at the same time, decided to make that a separate master, with the handle fitting into it, and the lozenge master fitting into the top of the cane shaft master. That way if I decided on more changes to the lozenge it will be much easier making a new master of just that than with the shaft included. I've got both of those worked out, and hopefully will have them finished up tomorrow, so I can glue them up.

I have been trying lemon scented furniture polish on the yardstick cane I have been using - advice per several of the cane sites on-line. Well, it sucks. I put Titebond glue on one of the other canes, first wiping on with a old, clean, sock, which didn't work out that well. So, used my finger to put it on, much better. Nice plasticy finish, with an amber tint. Quite satisfied with it, but will use a brush the next time. I will use the Titebond on one of the other yardstick canes. For the last one, I will be using cooking oil, just not decided yet if I will get some food coloring to tint it a bit. On and off, I have used cooking oil as a finish for probably 15 years anyway. Yes, it works. No, it does not go rancid - as long as you use new cooking oil - oil that's been heated, at fairly high temperatures, 'will' go rancid.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Ah, good day in the shop. Got a lot accomplished, partly from doing one part over three times. :'( I got the idea for my 'lozenge' master figured out. This will go just below the handle master I want to use, with a 'tongue' from the handle master fitting into the top of the lozenge master. I use lozenge, because it is shaped somewhat like a lozenge, it is a part of the cane that is a bit wider than the actual cane shaft, so the owner can put personal information/items on. I decided to make it a separate master so if I make another of a different size and/or shape I can use whichever I choose. Then a tongue on the bottom of the lozenge master will fit into the top of the cane shaft master. These three masters will then be tacked into place on a piece of wood, and the basic cane blank routed out. Then the routed blank will be glued onto a rough cut cane blank, and used as a master to rout the rough cut piece. Viola, a cane, albeit a cane that needs sanding and finishing. 

I knew what I wanted in the lozenge master, but things did not go quite as planned. So, wound up tossing a couple of tries, laying out the lines again, and finally got it right. The picture is of the final, finished, first half, and the rough cut piece that it will be glued to. Well, it's already glued, just needs to be final routed, then probably hit in a couple of places with a sander or file to get it just right. Oh yeah, all the little spots on the top of the master are nail holes, from tacking a straightedge on so I could rout the various straight edges; a bit tricky a couple of times, and one of the reasons I tossed the first couple, but it all worked out in the end - amazing the accuracy you can get at times, just using the Mark I eyeball.

Doublechecked the handle masters already done. One is good, one will need either minor sanding, or shaved a bit with the scrollsaw, and good to go. Looks like the turtle handle will need surgery, but nothing fantastically difficult. The rest of the handles will now have the tongue routed, instead of my trying to accurately scrollsaw a tongue on each. This will give easy consistency and accuracy. I will make a master for just that, based on the bottom of the lozenge master, but sized for the cane shaft stub on the handles. Not only more accurate, but should be faster also. 

Still need to finish the new cane shaft master, but by the time I got thru with the other stuff, just totally shot for the day. Still, life is basically good.
:dirol:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Learned something new today. Don't leave my cane on top of the trash can while in my shop if it looks like rain. I'd put several coats of Titebond glue on the yardstick cane I'm using, and it looks good, with a nice plasticy feel, and a slight amber color. But it sprinkled today, and when I came out of the shop, there were white spots all over the cane. Now I see why they don't say anything about Titebond being water resistant at all, and one of the reasons I long ago switched to Titebond II. I bought the Titebond because I couldn't recall why I'd switched. Well, besides no water resistance, it's thinner (or at least seems so to me), and a few other issues. Titebond II is a bit pricier, but well worth the extra cost to me, it's Titebond II all the way for me again. 

Yesterday spent most of my time working on a master so I could tack it atop my cane handle patterns, and get a consistent tonge on them that would fit into my lozenge master, when I routed out cane blanks. Total disaster that, and finally gave up. However, today, laid out a new one, spent a lot of time on it, and finally got good results. Sanded and filed on it a bit, and now fit is very good. It is the top piece in the picture. All the little dots on it are holes from where I tacked the straight edge on to rout the straight edges. I had a piece that I had originally planned to use in my chess masters, but found a better piece for that, so this is of a size I can glue the two together, and finish rout tomorrow. Then a bit of final sanding, and good to go.

So, things are coming along very nicely at this point, even got the pig piece routed out today, and it turned out very, very, well indeed. If tomorrow goes as well as today the week will be off to an excellent start for me. I should be able to get a start on the chess master, that will be used to make the master for the chess pieces. Yep, exactly. I'll try cutting out one of the chess pieces too, along with sanding one of the bases to size. If those come out right, I'll be squatting in tall cotton. :laugh:


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Theo, your cane handles are very entertaining and I keep waiting for some close up photos of the finished product. Have you got any you can show us? I'm curious how you paint or finish some of the designs. Thanks for the great in-progress updates of your projects, I enjoy following them.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Gaffboat said:


> Theo, your cane handles are very entertaining and I keep waiting for some close up photos of the finished product. Have you got any you can show us? I'm curious how you paint or finish some of the designs. Thanks for the great in-progress updates of your projects, I enjoy following them.


I keep waiting too, but I just keep getting distracted by other stuff. :sarcastic:
I don't have any pictures of the sapling canes I made, altho I got compliments on those, they proved to be a lot more prone to breaking than I ever dreamed, so I stopped making those. That is not quite accurate, I slipped on my snowy steps, fell on my sapling cane, and it snapped like a twig. I thought it should have been a lot stronger than that, so that's why I stopped making them. 

I do have a photo of the first test cane I made. Used some really low quality 3/8" plwood, 3 layers, for that one. It tore up terribly when I used a roundover and angle bits to knock down the edges. It was never strong from the begining, that weaked it even more, and I snapped it in half the other day. Its the first picture. I found that handle 'very' comfortable by the way. I saved the handle of it, and will make a new master, very similar, later.

The second picture is of one that was supposed to be a master, for making canes. Screwed up routing, so it instantly became Test Cane 2. Two layers of 1/2" plywood, very sturdy. I painted it, from a design I had sketched on the handle. Painting that thing was one of the larger PITAs I've had yet. I may paint some personal canes in the future, but if I ever paint any intended for sale, they're gonna be priced high, although I will draw out designs on some handles, then if the user wants to color, paint, or whatever, they can have at it. I used this one until the first yardstick cane, the red one in one of the first pictures in this thread. That wound up too thick, so moved on and made three blue yardstick canes, much better. Did shorten all of those from 38 1/2" to 37", which I find more comfortable to use. Use one daily now. Test Cane 2 will be broken in half, once I figure out a way to accurately, or reasonably so, measure the force needed to break it. I'm thinking of contacting one of the departments at NCSU to see if they could do it, and would do it. I know it's strong, just want to know how strong.

Once I've got a few more things done, I should be able to start pumping out canes. For awhile, I'll not be making duplicates, each will be different. And pictures will be forthcoming when I do. I'm finding this thread quite enjoyable, much more so than I had figured on. Glad to see someone else enjoying it also.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Thanks Theo. The bird's head close up was what I was hoping for. I was curious how you painted the handles. The paint adds a nice whimsical touch and really gives your canes personality. Nice job. I have been torn about adding paint to some of my small projects since it hides the wood but it really is necessary to bring some of the things to life.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Gaffboat said:


> Thanks Theo. The bird's head close up was what I was hoping for. I was curious how you painted the handles. The paint adds a nice whimsical touch and really gives your canes personality. Nice job. I have been torn about adding paint to some of my small projects since it hides the wood but it really is necessary to bring some of the things to life.


Nice little whatchamajigger. Just wouldn't be the same without some color added. 
I used indoor/outdoor acrylic latex on that bird. That's also what I used on my avatar, which is one of my small wizard banks. I used the paint as is, out of the can, on both. However, I have found that if you thin the latex, up to sometimes 50/50 latex/water, possibly even more, it acts more like a dye than paint, and shows the grain. But you are best advised to try it on scraps, until you get something you like. A few days ago I found one of my very early test cane handles - it had been on the ground outside my shop, covered with leaves, for probably about two years; 1/2" plywood, painted with thinned latex, and in amazing condition. Pictures one and two.

First post on this page (2) shows some of my cane handles cut out, that will be used on canes, as soon as I can get some issues sorted out, had hoped to start one today, but that didn't happen, and won't happen tomorrow, possibly the day after. Those will be made into masters, and once the canes are actually made, then I will sketch out whatever design that particular cane handle was made from, on both sides, in probably pencil, then black fine tip felt pen. I am pretty sure I won't be painting any of those, but always possible I suppose. And here is a picture of some more of my designs ready to be cut out, then made into masters. Some, at least, of the eagle designs will be painted; I'm thinking of some for disabled vets, painted would be a nice touch I think.

I've got about 40 handle designs at this stage. However, learning from what I've already done have found some need to be revised, they're too long, too tall, too whatever. Won't be too bad, not all of them have been glued to plywood yet. Then I've got I don't know how many pictures saved for inspiration for more designs.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Gaffboat said:


> Theo, your cane handles are very entertaining and I keep waiting for some close up photos of the finished product. Have you got any you can show us? I'm curious how you paint or finish some of the designs. Thanks for the great in-progress updates of your projects, I enjoy following them.


I agree, Oliver.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Well, that makes three people, including me, that likes this thread then. :sarcastic:

More shop time yesterday and today. Yesterday productive, but nothing really photogenic. Today pictures. 

Jumping ahead of where I thought I was, may even be able to start on another cane tomorrow, the Magic Eight Ball says, all signs looking good. Got two pieces rough cut to glue together today for a new cane shaft master. After I got them both cut out, figured out how I could have done the same thing faster, and easier. Too late tho. I'll get the same results, so no biggie. Also got my new lozenge master routed out and finished, with the two routed shoulders, also got a master to rout tongues on my handle masters, also with routed cuts, for square shoulders. And more. And 
photos. 

First photo: My turtle handle, with the shaft part cut off, because it was 
all messed up, bad. Next is the piece cut to fit on the turtle, one finished, 
and will be glued to the other piece, then finish routed, finally glued to the 
turtle. Will possibly make a complete new turtle master later. The last two 
pieces are the start of a chess piece master, more on that later. 

Second photo: These are the new lozenge master, and the handle tongue 
master. You can make out the in routing on the base of the tongues. 
Just enough to let them sit flat. Lot of nail holes, I wanted to be sure they 
would not shift, I can always put less nails in, but it's hard to drill new 
holes and put in nails later. 

Third photo: This will be the handle of the next cane - I 'still' have not found my grumpy fish handle. In front of it are the lozenge master, and the handle tongue mster. Actually the buzzard will be in place of the tongue master, and the lozenge tonge will go in the shaft slot. Fit them together, mark around them on a piece of plywood, rough cut just outside the lines, fit them back together again, this time tack in place, and rout around - first cane half. No prob. Then glue the first half down to a rough cutout, use that to guide the bit, and viola, got a cane ready to finish. A bit of sanding to round off the rough corners, put a tip on it, then draw out the buzzard on each side of the handle. I doubt seriously I'll be painting this, but who knows. Or could just leave the handle blank, then let the buyer make their own design. 

Oh yeah, the lozenge on the canes is to provide a bit of extra space on the shaft so if someone wants to add some personal touches to the cane that's the intent. Or they can leave it blank. I'm thinking of making at least two more lozenge masters, 4" and 5", for if someone wants more space. Or, I can leave them out entirely. I've found that I like the look of them, even if blank, they will only be 2" wide, 1/2" more on each side. We're having fun now.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

The Magic Eight Ball was right, excellent start on a cane today. Finish routed the shaft master, and drilled a gazillion nail pilot holes in it. Two photos. 

In the first photo I had already outlined the complete cane, and rough cut a blank. The cane parts are on that, as they will be tacked down and routed out.

Second photo, the cane parts were already tacked down, first half of the cane routed out, and the handle, lozenge, and shaft masters shown, with all the nails still in them just to show how many - or if I were to start on another cane immediately, the nails would already be in place. This is the first cane I have made this way, and I had thought the lozenge master in particular would need some sanding to 'fine tune' it, but I was surprised, the piece routed out excellently. So, I outlined it on another piece of plywood, rough cut, and will glue the two together this evening, and finish rout tomorrow. You can see all the nail holes in the cane blank, no problem with those, no filling either, they will get glued inside the two halves, and will never show. Should be able to show a complete cane tomorrow. I'm happy, happy, happy. 
:happy: :yes4:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Ladies and gentlemen, and small children everywhere, today we have - CANE! Ta Da.
Finish routed it today. Hit it on the edges with the sander, lopped an inch off to make it 37" long, rasped the end, whacked the tip on, then put the design on both sides. And, viola, cane. I'm just so happy.
Hehehehe :jester:

First picture, first side compared to the master. I got in a bit of a rush, so I didn't pay as much attention as I normally would have, but even so, I'm satisfied.
Ha, I looked at that second picture again, and only then noticed what looked like a notch cut in it. Trick of the lighting, that is the router bit, and what looks like a piect of wood holding the cane up is the router table. 

Second picture is the opposite side of the handle. Satisfied with that also.

I would be using it today, but when it was finish routed there was a splinter came off of one edge. So I put a bit of wood filler there, will sand it tomorrow, and start using it.

I would have started on another cane, different buzzard, but got a call from Mother Nature. When you've had a colon resection you find out quickly, answer the call. I did, in time, then made a quick run to town. On the way back, got a hint that I'd best just end shop time today, and stay indoors, where the 'convenience' is a lot more readily available. 

I'll get on cutting out new handle designs, make handle masters, mostly, with a cane here and there. Almost forgot, picked up seven yardsticks from Home Depot the other day, $5.08, tax and all, not bad; they will be made into yardstick canes, as I get around to them; probably make a new master for the shaft on them, which will save routing some off, as the yardsticks seem to splinter quite a bit when routed. Intend on doing more on my chess masters too; no huge rush, just want to get them out of the way. Wantt to pick up the pace on the piggy bank, with perhaps a bit of work here and there on the revised monster truck bank. 

Somewhere along the line, I'll be making a new cane shaft master. This one I used on the buzzard is 48" long, so I think I'll make it into a walking stick master, and just make a new, shorter, cane shaft master.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great to see the finished product, Theo.

I'll bet that it was a giant learning curve?


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Thanks James. And that was a whole bunch of learning curves. You wouldn't believe the number of times I redid things, or remade them. But now I can make a cane.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Good news, and bad news. For me that is. Sanded the wood filler on the buzzard cane, looking good. And the hump on the beak fits right into the palm of the hand, making it nicely comfortble. So, got the cane done, decided to get a start on making master, so I can rout out my chess pieces. Totally blew it on two of the pawn designs I tried. How could I blow something that basic? Especially after my second try at sanding my octagon base came out just great; good enough to fool the eye, and when I measured, all the sides came out the same, or extremely close to it. So quite pleased with that anyway.

In the picture, on the left is a master in the process of being glue up. First stage I guess you'd say, because it has several more steps to go. Anyway, the cross looking piece glued onto the rough cutout has had the top sanded to match one of the sides of the octagon base, close enough you can't tell any size difference. I done good on that. In the middle is just one of the rough cutout master parts, with the to size octagon in front of it. And, on the right, is my master to make my masters, nailed to a rough cutout blank. The nailed on part has been sanded to so close to 1" that you can't tell any different. That's only part of the problem with finish sanding the pieces, getting the base 1", instead of less. Bleah.

I started routing a straight edge along a piece of scrap plywood, to use in making the chess masters. And the bearing came off my almost new Eagle America 1/2" pattern bit. I've had it maybe a month, at the most. What a major bummer. And no spare bit. So, grabbed the buzzard cane, and off to Lowes. And they had Bosch and Skill bits. Period. So, being desperate I grabbed a Bosch bit. Not my first choice, but that's all they had. By the time I got back home I didn't feel like any more shop time today. Probably visit my son and the grandkids tomorrow, so don't know if I'll get any shop time after or not. Things were mostly going well, until the bit went kablooie. Bah. Humbug.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Theo. I also had a bearing come of a cutter from first my cheap set.

Now, I always check the nut with the wrench before using a bearing guided cutter.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Hi James. This wasn't exactly what I'd have called a cheap bit. I've used my previous bits for years with no problems. Well, once in awhile a bearing would come off, but only after long, and usually hard, usage. Now I've lost four brand new bits within about two months. After a lot of thought, I've came to the same conclusion as you, check that the little bolt/screw is tight. Hoping for the best with this new bit.

After I posted yesterday, just felt like a nap, so took one, Just woke up, nice nap. But I did have a few waking periods, and applied some thought to my masters. I forsee no problems with the chess piece masters, when I finally get the pieces cut out and right, I've done similar before and worked out very well. 

But I've not done anything like trying to rout out copies of a small octagon. I like the type of masters I will be using for the chess pieces, but decided on some experimentation for the octagon. I'll use the master I was going to put together, the one that was going to be used with the finished octagon, and make another master from that one. Then if I screw it up, I'll still have the original, and can try again if need be. And to avoid possibly screwing my my nice octagon, I'll be using an octagon I did some time back, that is a bit off. I'll put that together and try it, then if things work out well, I'll do a master with the good octagon. I hope that's clear, but there will be photos if not. I'm pretty sure I understand it. However, if that doesn't work out, I've got an idea for a totally different type of master, that I'm pretty sure will work out, just take a bit more time probably to get a usable clone.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Well, finished the test master for my octagon base today. Worked out quite well, so dumped it, and have started one using my good octagon. Sketched out a simpler pawn, simpler in design, simpler to cut out - hopefully. Sketched out two more buzzard designs, based on the first buzzard handle. The turtle operation came out very well, so have started a turtle cane today, should be finished tomorrow. Started another lozenge master, this one 4" rather than 3". Started a master for the chess pieces too.

My Bosch bit is holding up well, so far. But went ahead and ordered two Whiteside bits anyway, just in case. 

I need a jig or something so I can cut straighter lines, and closer clearance. I've been looking on-line, but not found anything useful. Best I found was to use a straight edge, and I'd already figured that one out, but that would only work for some of my cuts. I'm thinking about a shoe out of plywood, screwed, or bolted, to the bottom of the saber saw - now 'that' I believe I could use with a straightedge, for the long cuts, which is just what I'm after. If I can't come up with anything better, or track something better down, I'm going to try something along those lines. Now I'm thinking of getting a second saber saw, so I can mod one, and use one as is. And, no, a circular saw wouldn't work for me, certainly not as well as a saber saw. 

Picture of the octagon master before final routing. OK, on the left is the start of a master. In the center is a piece routed out, and the bad octagon. And another piece ready to be routed.

OK, second picture should make the first a bit clearer. This is the finished test master, and the cloned octagon base. The master is made by routing out a 'cross' looking piece. Glue that to a piece of plywood and rout. Then glue those two pieces onto a longer piece of plywood, and glue the octagon on the long piece, butted against the bottom of the two pieces. Then rout the long piece around the top of the two formed pieces and the octagon. This gives a master. The drilled pilot holes in the octagon, set a piece of plywood slightly larger than the octagon atop the octagon, and butted against the bottom later of the two. Nail from the top. Then rout. That's the same way I'll be making my chess pieces. A bit crude perhaps, but works quite well.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

The last couple of days have been pretty good. Drafted up a design for a plastic bag carrier, so you can carry several bags, and not have them feel like they're cutting your fingers off. Two new buzzard handle designs, based on the other buzzard handle, and making a new master for each, do that instead of just putting them on paper, that's bound to get lost. Redoing my yardstick cane master, the yardsticks would splinter when routed, so this will be a bit wider, to match the yardsticks, so they won't need routing. Will keep the old master as a plain cane master, which I think some people will prefer. And finished two more canes, the last of the Lowes yardstick canes, and a turtle cane. Things are marching along. 

Almost forgot. Definitely need some more room, so I can extend my router table to the left a foot or so; the right side could use a bit too, but I can live with it as is if need be. The router table served me well for years, but now my needs have change enough that I could really use a longer table. My wood lathe is blocking the left, so that is definitely going to have to be sold. Works like a champ, but I've not touched it for I don't know how long. If I recall right, it's 37" between centers, and on a good shopmade stand. I did some playing just after I got it, then made a small oak bowl - turning oak is not worth the effort, and made a total of about a dozen carving mallets, of various woods, sizes, and weights. And that's it on the turning. Probably about 10 or 12 hours, tops, on it. It's really nice to have a shop, but it kind of sucks at times when your shop is really small. Still, 'a' shop is a whole not better than 'no' shop.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

It seems that you are keeping yourself busy, Theo.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Yep, keeping busy. And some of the things I'd just as soon not be doing. Like spending yesterday tracking down a new clothes dryer on-line, to replace the old one, that when kablooie. Then today going to pay for it, will be delivered on Sun. 

Did spend some shop time tho. Got my two buzzard designs done, I guess you could call the first one either sleepy, or dopy, and the second angry. Didn't like the angry one, so wound up sanding that down, and laying out a grumpy buzzard instead. Still not 100% what I would like, but close enough; but boy that photo came out lousy. Made about 6-7 designs on paper before I came up with this one. 

Rough cut and routed out the master for my plastic bag holder today. You can see the lines on the back, where I used three pieces, because didn't want to waste a large piece of wood. That would have worked out fine, but when I squeeze the top and bottom, I can see it move - not because of the three pieces tho - because the sides need to be thicker. Will lay that out tomorrow, and give it another shot. I'm sure it would be plenty strong enough to hold a full load of plastic bags, but I just don't like it moving. 

And, my pawn. Getting this done just exhausted me mentally today, so called it quits as soon as I was able to get the two sides routed. Did NOT hold the piece in my fingers, instead used the large spring clamp behind it. Found out that it would push in when I pushed the pawn against the router, so wound up cutting a brace piece to hold it in position. Worked just fine. The sides and top will need to be finished sanded tomorrow, just wanted to get the two sides routed so I didn't spend time on it, then screw it up doing that. 

Oh yes, got the new yardstick cane master all routed out yesterday. Strange tho. One side, the front side I guess you'd say, is very straight and smooth. But the other side has a few bumps and dips in it, but it also is not quite straight, and needs sanding to come down to the line in some sections, but the up side of that is, it will also take out the bumps and dips at the same time, just have to watch where I'm at and pay close attention. Now when I make yardstick canes should not have to rout the yardsticks at all, just hit it all with a bit of light sanding, to round the corners and edges. Yay. And the old yardstick cane master will be converted to just a basic cane master, in fact I think I will make one for myself. Almost time to start thinking of selling a few, the finished ones are starting to pile up in the back of my Jeep.
Anyone want a cane. :laugh:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Today got the pawn master all finish sanded. Came out quite nicely I thought, but I also decided to make it a bit, hmm, not matching sides I guess you would say. But that's OK, a pawn is a soldier in armor, so one side is his front, and the other his back. Anyway, I'm satisfied with it, so that's how it stays. Remake later always a possiblity, of course. It is in front of the rough cut bag holder.

I found out I could bend that first bag holder enough so it completely closed the gap. It seemed more than strong enough, but I didn't care for it. So, laid out a new one, with beefed up sides, 1" now, and some on the inside, back. Got that nicely cut out, and sanded, then tried squeezing it. Even with just the one layer of 1/2" plywood, it barely moved, even though I squeezed harder than the two layer version - which got dumped. The good one is on the left in the photo, and the rough cut for it to be glued to is on the right. When I cut inside like that, I like to drill numerous 1/2" holes with a spade bit, then use the sabre saw to connect the holes. Makes controlling the blade, and a close cut, much easier that way. I've got the two glued up today, and will finish rout tomorrow. Then it's nail hole drilling again. These bag holders are a great way of using up scrap wood you otherwise would probably toss. Depending on how many, and heavy, plastic bags I figure I will carry, I prefer at least a double thickness, 1", and on occassion triple thickness, 1 1/2". Makes it loads easier on your fingers. Just be sure you round the edges with a sander or roundover bit. Feel free to copy this design if you want. Making your own version is really a LOT less expensive than buying them, even if you use new wood, and not scrap.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Interesting day. I glued up all the pieces to make my pawn master, and it will be finish routed tomorrow, then I'll drill nail pilot holes, and give it a try on a bit of scrap, and see how it comes out. I've done the same before, but on larger pieces, so have high hopes. The piece that looks like a weird cross had holes drilled thru it, and I couldn't figure out why I'd done that - until after I got the whole combination glued up. That was because it was my master for that particular part, and I had not written MASTER on it. Argh. However, the piece I had intended to use just needed finish routing, and pilot holes drilled, so that will be my new master instead. My handle masters, that are only half finished, all got MASTER printed on them. And now you see why I write MASTER on all my masters. 

The bag handle holder master was all routed, and pilot holes drilled, so traced around that four times, cut the roughs out, tacked the master to two of them and routed them out, then glued up two bag holders, which will be finish routed tomorrow. Then tested the master by toting a load of plastic bags of groceries in the house. Worked like a charm - however, I did not hit the edges with a sander, so while it wasn't bad, it would have been a lot more comfortable with the edges rounded, even a little. Even so, was able to carry more in one load than I normally could in two, and didn't have to listen to my fingers telling me they felt like they were being amputated by the plastic handles. 

Still have not found my grumpy fish cane handle design, so finally found the original inspiration for it on-line, and laid out another. Will fine tune that this evening, then possibly cut it out tomorrow, possibly. Got some good comments today on the turtle cane. That's about it on the canes, I'll be making more, with new designs, but since you all should know how to make one yourself now (make it my way at least :dance3: ), I'll just low key cane making. Instead I'll be concentrating on my chess pieces, the pig bank, and a gun carrying case. 

I've got a very nice little Marlin rifle, .22 single shot bolt action, that I got a few years ago. Modded the stock a bit. Later modded it more, then still more. Now I find that when you include the scope on it, it is too tall to fit in a standard (read not horribly expensive) gun case. So, that means I'll have to take some measurements, and start making a custom wooden carrying case for it. I had been thinking of one for awhile, not for this gun, and wanted to make it 100% wood, no metal period. I think I may get away with wood hinges on this one, but not sure about 100% wood, in the interest of getting it done, will probably use metal latches of some sort. Pictures of my stock mods. 

Almost forgot the first mod I made to it, that's picture three. The cheek piece can be used either side, molded the pistol grip, and the piece on the forend has T-nuts imbedded in it so the wood ball with the bolt in it can be screwed in and used as a hand grip. Had two other length, but don't know what happened to them. There's also one of the figure banks I sometimes make, this one I made a mirror image, even the writing on the front of his book is backwards. And one of the first canes I made, from a sapling. This one or one just like it snapped like a twig when I slipped on snowy steps, and fell on it. I gave that last one of those types away awhile back. I will never make another cane from a sapling.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

A learning day you might say. Got the two bag carriers final routed and the edges rounded. Very nice now. Only took one, vairly heavy bag into the house, but the carrier eased even that one bag. Will definitely be making more, so I'll always have at least one handy. However, before I do, I think I am going to redo them, today found that the weight was in a position where the rear of the carrier was down more than the front. This put the finger at the gap. Not uncomfortable, but think I prefer the gap down a bit, and the fingers in the rounded back.

Photo one - got my pawn master routed out.
Photo two - tacked a rough cut piece on it, ready to be routed.
Photo three - routed out a pawn, and it came out as nice as I thought, and hoped, it would.

Now, the however. The part that the rough cut sits on is narrower than the pawn base. No problem, EXCEPT it turned out to also be rounded. That was a real killer, getting that rough cut piece on their straight, in fact it took six nails in that little bitty piece - 1" X 1 1/2". Regardless, it routed out very nicely. But when I went to remove it from the master, it wound up just being torn to bits. Ah well. So, I had the other master part, with the pawn base not so thin, and routed out a piece with that, glued it up, and will proceed again tomorrow. Still need to decide what pawn design to use to, the two little routs on each side didn't help the strength of it at all. No more fancy. 

I did get some other small things done, including a couple of pieces that will go into the tool shelf I need.  Really need to stop for a day or three and clear some more usable space. The shop is not huge, but with all the clutter I have it might almost as well be 4'X4'. It's actually 8'X12', which is really not bad, when it's organized. To call it disorganized at this particular time would be polite.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Been feeling sick as a dog recently, change in the weather I figure, that usually does it if I'm not careful about keeping warm when I get out. Still don't feel like hopping and skipping, but definitely feel fantastic compared to what I felt like a couple of days ago. So, there's been no shop time for awhile. Probably won't be for a day or two either.

However, I was able to finish up a satisfactory grumpy fish cane handle. The original one is still lost in the shop, somewhere, wherever it flipped to is a total mystery. So started another. Wasn't coming up with anything that appealed to me, so started researching. Printed a cartoon fish, the one that inspired the idea in the first place, a couple of fish, a grumpy cat, Walter from Jeff Dunham, Oscar the Grouch, and looked at pictures of grumpy fish, cartoon pictures of grumpy whatever, grumpy clipart, and so on. And after 28 sketches, including a few eyes, have something appeals to me, and the final sketch was based on a photo of a real fish. I have not a clue what type of fish, but a real fish. My verson is totally nothing like the original, but that's good. That'll be my next cane, when I get back in the shop. Got a number of people around town that want to see it when it's done.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Have managed to get in a few days with a bit of shop time. Got the grumpy fish all cut out, glued for a master, and sanded. Nicely comfortable in the hand. However, thought I had gotten rid of all the 3-ply 3/8" plywood, but turns out not. Have a piece in the grumpy fish master, so not sure yet if I will have to make a new one or not. 

Laid out a simpler pawn design, and got that cut out. Also another master for it. Turns out I wound up putting some of that 3-ply plywood in that too. That one will definitely have to be redone. However, I went ahead and put a piece of 4-ply plywood on it, tacked down, and routed it. Came out very nicely inceed. I had been thinking that my chess pieces were pretty simple, not elaborate, etc. Simple on paper, not so simple cutting out accurate pieces. Hence the simpler pawn. I simpled up the king and queen also, I'm going to try the bishop as I've got it, and the rook is about as simple as the pawn. Only the horsey is going to probably give me issues now - but if that happens, I've got a close enough shot of it that I can lay it out on graph paper again. 

Still have to do a master for the base, think I may try a couple of experiments before I go with that good base I have done. I'd hate to spend all that time over again.

Was going to layout and cut my grumpy fish blank this afternoon. All set, then discovered that one side of my shaft master is lumpy, besides being slightly less than 1" wide toward the base. How and when did that happen? Argh. So, that means a new master for that. Got half of it roughed out today, but with the other stuff, didn't feel like gluing it up today. Maybe tomorrow. I could actually used it to make a solid cane, with the rough side sanded smooth, but don't care to operate that way. I'd rather make a good master, then go from there.

First photo is grumpy fish master, and the new pawn master.
Second photo is pawn routed out. Master worked perfectly.

And, while I try to make my work look better by removing the flaws, this guy claims flaws are what makes his work beautiful. I don't think so. It looks crude, slapped together, and nothing I would want to keep anywhere except maybe in my shop, for keeping tools or something in - and I doubt seriously I would do that bad a job for even that. It's just poor work as far as I'm concerned, another so-called 'artiste'. http://www.koolwood.com/accessories/wooden-briefcase/


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Theo, are you just using ply for the masters, and solid timber for the actual canes?


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> Theo, are you just using ply for the masters, and solid timber for the actual canes?


Nope, a decent quality 1/2" plywood for both - actually, lower quality would work for the masters, but I would rather spend a bit more, so I won't wind up making a cane with the lower quality stuff. I just feel that a cane with a 1"X1" shaft of two thicknesses of 1/2" plywood is sturdier than one of solid timber. I could be wrong, depending on the type of solid wood used, but I like plywood anyway. The plywood I'm using now makes the sides of the canes look nice, and the front and back show the plys, for a nice look, especially when oiled. 

I'll try to get a couple of decent photos later, so you can see what I mean. 

I'm trying to get to where I'm satisfied with my work enough to try selling some. And I 'am' getting there; the light at the end of the tunnel is no longer an ogre with a flashlight. :wacko: Not figuring on charging an arm and a leg for them either, I think that the $20-25 USD range will be about right, but if a buyer wants 'me' to paint the design for them, then the cost starts at about $50, and will only go up. I found out early, I do not like painting canes. :lazy: However, canes will be available with a design drawn on by me, or plain so they can make their own design.

Oh yes, something I find interesting. Almost all of the cane sites seem to have a guide to finding out what length cane is best suited for you. Right now I am making all of mine 37", and my height is 5'7". The 'experts' say that a cane 36" is right for a man 5'11" tall. LOL So much for the 'experts'. I like having my arm bent at the elbow more, so I have more 'push'. When I first made my yardstick canes, they wound up being 38 1/2" tall, and had no issues with them. But, I had a test cane I lopped 1/2" off at a time, and found I like 37". So, that's what I make my canes now. Easy enough to cut one shorter if someone wants, and will be able to make canes up to about 47 1/2" when I'm done, but doubt seriously I would get any call for one that tall, however perhaps as a walking staff. Actually, if it came down to it I 'could' make one just under 8' tall, but won't; perhaps 6', for a walking staff, but at an increase in price.
As you can see, I'm happy to answer questions. :dance3:

Also, been curious to know the breaking point on my canes. So have contacted the local university, to see if they can/will accurately test them. Way too soon to have an answer yet.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Not a good day in the shop, at all. Started clearing a few things to go into the trash, and everytime I picked something up, seemed like I knocked off two I wanted to keep. Then oiled my turtle cane, had decided to keep it for myself, so not likely it's going to get painted anytime withing the next century. Put a coat of oil on it, almost finished, and the oil bottle got knocked over. I wasn't near it, it was not right at the edge of the table, and still went over, spilling some oil on my pants, and all the rest, except about a teaspoonful on the floor. Great. Did finish the cane with the bit that was left. Cooking oil by the way, it won't to rancid if it is unused. I've used it on and off for probably over 15 years. Decided then I'd best pack it in for the day, but did get my new cane shaft master glued up and clamped, as well as taking pictures of the oiled cane.

One - cane side, unoiled.
Two - cane side, oiled. Not able to tell a lot of difference, even in person.
Three - front of cane, unoiled.
Four - front of cane, oiled. The oil makes the inside plys of the plywood show nicely.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Spent some shop time today, even took off my jacket; which may have been a mistake. I'll just say today was 'different'.

Still need to final rout my cane shaft master, before I can do a grumpy fish cane. Too bad, I had hoped it would be done by now. But wasn't in the shop yesterday, and then today got involved making a 'ski' or whatever, for my sabre saw, so I could cut right up the straight side, and precise cut 1/8" quickly, and easily. Got the holes drilled in the base, and got a piece of plywood cut. And can't find any screws or bolts suitable to use. So, looks like a hardware run tomorrow. What I 'really' need is two more sabre saws, so one can be set to cut 1/8" on the right, and another 1/8" on the left. The third will be for the non-straight parts. I'll take some pictures of what I'm talking about when it's finished - hopefully tomorrow. 

Moving on, decided to take down the small hills on the one side of my new yardstick cane master. Decided the best way, after a lot of thought on it, was to just clamp the yardstick, lining one edge on the straight edge of the master. Worked like a charm, all perfect on the one edge. Then when I flipped it, so I could drive nails to tack the yardstick in place, discovered I had not yet drilled my nail pilot holes in it, I had just gone by the straight edge nail holes made when I tacked that down. OK, unclamp, drill holes, reset and reclamp yardstick. Ah great, tacked the yardstick in place, with no nails sticking way thru. Good to go, as soon as I put in my flush trim bit, and adjust that. Yeah, right, that's the one bit I now cannot find. It is not in the drawer I distinctly recall putting it in. Or any of the other drawers. Starting to look seriously like I need to get another one, that's the only type that will work for this operation. About that time I decided it was probably best to just pack it in and go back in the house. Bleah.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Sounds like you had an 'interesting' day, Theo....


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Yeah, and I'd have had a lot better time of it if I'd stayed inside and had an uninteresting time. Taking the jacket off was a major error, it was coolish in the shop, and brought back my cough. Awake most of the night, coughing, but then slept like a rock all during the day (how does that work?), and didn't wake up until about 6:30 pm. Made it to town to check the mail, but didn't feel like going into the shop. Still coughing, but that's winding down some now.

Good news tho, got a reply back from the local university, about testing my canes, and it looks like they may be willing to do so. Need a bit more information from me, and, hopefullyl, good to go.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I know how you feel. I came back from NY with cough that just wont go away. On antibiotics and allergy tablets at the moment.

A good nights sleep is an old memory.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

James.
One, take lots of Vitamin C, that always helps me.
Two, stay out of NY. :lol:

Did make a hardware stop today, but by the time I got back home, just worn out.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Not really my week. Got time in the shop. Started out by clamping the ski to the sabre saw, to marke where to drill, did that, and the ski fastened on. It does let me saw a much straighter line, faster than I could before. Not quite 1/8" tho, more like 3/8. Needs some tuning. Also may be longer than I need. Does work nicely tho, otherwise. Got a picture of the ski clamped in place, before drilling the hole thru it for the machine screw fastener. Then one of it fastened in place.

Moving on, decided to find my profile bit. Not happening. So, sat down, and proceeded to knock off the plastic bin holding all my small spring clamps. Reaching down with the Grabber, or whatever it's called, managed to flip one completely out the door. Picked the rest of them up, and decided to just go in the house.

Going out the door decided to take pictures of a couple of electric cord hangers I glued up out of scrap plywood, many years ago. They worked well for the first 30 seconds or so, then the boys used the cords, and left they lying. Now they are very handy for me and my stiff joints to put a hand on to steady myself going up and down the steps to the shop. I can highly recommend something similar for anyone.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Just one of those days, eh Theo......


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

More like one of those weeks James.

OK, shop time today. Still couldn't find my pattern bit, so decided to go ahead and use the table saw to take off the bumps on the yardstick cane master. Hey, it was only on one side, how hard could it be? Used six yardsticks to get the fence just the right distance from the blade, took several minutes, was very careful to get it right. OK, start up the saw, start the master in. Hmm, lacking about 1/16" being high enough. OK, got that taken care of, cane back in. Working like a charm, had almost the whole shaft done, when I noticed, the yardstick was getting trimmed also. Hmm, that wasn't supposed to happen. Checked the yardsticks again, spacing still looked good. Still not figured out what happened, so need to make yet another master, this one is scrap. Picture one shows how nicely the cut was. Picture two, you can see better how the yardstick was getting trimmed also. I think if I do that again I will try some scrap first, and measure the results.

OK, clear out some of the trash, make some room. Did that for a bit, then decided to go ahead and get started tacking masters to make a grumpy fish cane, the girls at the hardware store want to see it. Got to tacking down the grumpy fish handle, and guess what? I hadn't drilled the nail pilot holes. Hmmph, decided to leave that for the next day. 

And, in the meantime, proceeded to dump the entire plastic container with my cane handle masters on the floor. Along with the container with my nails, and most of them were dumped out, along with my scissors. Actually, the masters dumped when I pulled out the lozenge master, which unbalanced the container, and it took the nail contaimer with it. 

I will probably drill the grumpy fish, and tack it down, next time I am in the shop, but the really high priority anymore is getting that shelf up. Putting some stuff, a lot of stuff, on that will clear up a lot of space by itself. 

Learn by doing.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Trying to picture it, Theo, but the only way I can see a cut like that is if you are letting the part being fed into the blade to drift away from the fence..

Do you have a featherboard set before the blade?


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> Trying to picture it, Theo, but the only way I can see a cut like that is if you are letting the part being fed into the blade to drift away from the fence..
> 
> Do you have a featherboard set before the blade?


No featherboard, and kept a very close eye on it. Didn't drift away from the fence at all, tight against it all the way. I had six yardsticks, all the exact same width of the one I had tacked on the master, stacked them on top of each other, and used them to set the fence distance. The fence didn't move, and the blade is tight, so just cannot figure how this happened. Unless it's the Woodworking Gods having their bit of fun with me this week. Could be. I've still got some of the shaft that wasn't 'trimmed', so think I will cut it short, and experiment a bit with what's left; it'll get trashed anyway, might as well try to learn something from it before it goes.

Forgot to mention, I decided to check my sabre saw ski, to see about trimming it a bit to get a closer cut. I have a nice metal ruler I use for all my measurements in the shop, laid that on the wood, up against the blade. Had a bit of trouble getting it exact against the blade, kept getting slight discrepancies of 1/16" or so when I tried to mark a line. No problem, put the ruler straight up and down against the blade, nice and steady. And then one end of the line was a good half inch out of line, the other end about an eighth of an inch or so. I'll have to take the ski off and recheck everything. Looks good, as is, but apparently the blade is not straight to the metal bottom plate. At least it does cut straighter this way than I can cut without it, so feel I am making 'some' progress at least. 

This simply has 'not' been my week.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Just came in from the shop, and have some answers.

My saw blade flexed. When I moved the fence over, to butt the yardsticks straight to the blade, it flexed. I knew the blade could flex, but certainly didn't realize it would flex with as little pressure as I was using, or thought I was using. When the yardsticks were pulled out, the blade flexed back, which meant it would cut the yardstick also. Will know to watch that next time, if there is one. It did cut straight tho, no problem at all with that part.

I took the ski off my sabre saw and clamped my steel ruler to the blade. Awk. The saw blade is not straight, I don't know if it is a one time factory goof, or all of them are that way. The blade is not twisted, the blade holder is crooked slightly. Enough for the ruler to be off about 1/8" on one end, and 1/2" or so on the other. No wonder I thought it was pushing a bit hard with the ski on. By just looking at the blade, you can't tell, it looks straight, and it cuts OK too. It's hard to view the blade when cutting, so you know just where it is, so I think I'll use the ruller, and mark a white line on the front of the saw base, inline with the blade, then I can follow my marked lines using that. Later on I'll devote some time into figuring how to put the ski back on, inline with the blade.

Had my shelf supports cut before, rough cut. So, tonight lined them up on the two straight lines, nailed them together, then routed them so they have the same contours all the way round. Then marked out where I want to drill the nail pilot holes. Didn't drill tonight, not in that big a hurry yet. Because I'll have to nail them in place, with a hammer and nails. No air nailer, and the older son got rid of the one he had. I can nail the one on the left side, no biggie, but the one on the right side is probably going to kill my back, and I don't look forward to that. So will need to ponder the best way to do it - that is the least painful for me. May have to put in one nail a day. :shout:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Today decided to pass on cane work, and just relax a bit in the shop. Got my two shelf bracket nail pilot holes drilled, then left them. Found two more pieces of 3/8" plywood, that went in the trash, one I had to cut in half to make it fit - I could have used them both in one of my projects, but decided against it, too much chance of a piece getting mixed in where I didn't want it, so trash.

Decided to work a bit on my piggy bank, it's been awhile. I was going to rout out another piece, the one with legs, and noticed that on the one already routed one inside leg had a little bump. Hmm, looked at the master, and yep, one of the 1/2" pieces had the same thing. Usually I flip my masters, and rout the other way, to ensure both ways are totally identical; looks like I didn't on this one. No prob, crank up the router, rout about 1 1/2" on the master, done. Here is an advantage of holding down my masters by tacking with nails - I was able to line up the master over the routed piece by the nail holes, fit them with just my fingers, about 10 or so nails, then whacked them with a hammer; it was placed exactly. Then rout about 1 1/2", and the leg is perfect. Changed my mind about doing the leg piece, and instead laid out the outside master, marked it with a pencil, and it's ready to drill 1/2" holes on the inside, so I can cut from hole to hole with the sabre saw, to remove the inside. 

About that time got an urgent message to visit the indoor facilities (ah, one of the greatest benefits of the modern world, that and soft paper), so, since I was doing so well decided to call it a day in the shop, and declared today a national holiday. Visited the hopper, then took a nap. Best shop day in a week. 
:lazy: :laugh:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hang in there, Theo. 

Some days, I just go into my shed, after pulling a few items out to make space, have a look around and go back out. Some days, that is a good day.........

However, I do suffer from "Rattyism"..... If you have read 'Wind in the Willows' you will understand what I mean....

"Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats." (insert wood shed)
"Simply messing...about in boats -- or with boats... In or out of 'em it doesn't matter. Nothing seems to matter, that's the charm of it. Whether you get away, or whether you don't; whether you arrive at your destination or whether you reach somewhere else, or whether you never get anywhere at all, you're always busy, and you never do anything in particular; and when you've done it there's always something else to do, and you can do it if you like, but you'd much better not." .......


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Know exactly what you mean James. Some days it's enough to just go out there, sit, and smell the sawdust for awhile, then leave. Other times, it always gives me a warm feeling just to look out the window, see the shop, and know it and every thing in it is all paid for, and all mine. Might not be much to a lot of people, but it's what I have, and I appreciate the fact that I have it. 

Excellent book, read it many years ago. There's a very good cartoon movie of it too, if you haven't seen it. Now that I think about it, I should really get a copy of one or the other, maybe both. 

Haven't been in the shop the last couple of days, partly because still trying to figure out how to put up those shelf brackets without killing my back, and partly because got stuff in the house that needs catching up on. Going to try to spend a bit of time out there today, but not betting the ranch on it happening; working up a grumpy rhino cane handle inbetween.. Overall, life is basically good. Have GOT to find time to fit in a wood run too.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Here's a present for you James.
The Wind in the Willows 1995 -Full Movie - YouTube


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Finally. Some shop time, after several days of none. Laid out a new plastic bag carrier handle, that I think will work much better. The previous one works well enough, but just didn't 'thrill' me. Also, finally, figured out how to get those shelf brackets up.

And it wasn't easy. Not bad on my back at all, but a killer on my right shoulder. Put some nails in the nail pilot holes, fiddled the left bracket in place, and was able to hold it there with the left hand, while I whacked the nails (double headed) with a hammer in the right hand. Only three nails, but will add more before the shelf goes on.

The right was a bear. Not enough space to allow me to clamp the bracket in place, while I drove nails. Nooo, I had to hold it in place with the left hand, and pound with the right. Finaly, figured out how to get it in place, and was able to brace my left arm enough to hold the bracket in place. Then, with some effort, was able to tap one nail in and hold it in place. Hooray. Then decided to drive in the nail above that one. And that loosened the first one, so it all came loose. Found out the first one hadn't been in but about 1/8" to 1/4". Took me another good five minutes to get back to where I could whack a nail again. I've got about three driven in on that side, not going to do more today, my shoulder was killilng me. But, it should be reasonably easy to get some more nails in the pilot holes, then drive them in. Hopefully, I can get them all done in one go, rather than do some, then wait until next shop day to do more. Then it's just cut the pieces for the shelf itself, no biggie there. Got a couple of pieces of laminated plywood I took out of another project, and one of those will do great. That will free up a load of room for me. Drat, still got to advertise my wood lathe too, getting that out will free up a ton of space for me too, and even more importantly is will allow me to extend the left side of my router table. 

Once the shelf is up, and loaded, I can do the six or so routing jobs I have prepared and waiting. Soon. And, nice news, my arc welder will just fit under the new shelf, with about an inch to spare; just moving that will free up even more space. Yay. Life is basically good.

Speaking of bears. This is the state capital, about 10-15 miles from me, and it is NOT the wild, wild, west. Never know what you've got around you. http://www.wral.com/bear-spotted-in-north-raleigh-/12532854/


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Was able to cut out the new plastic bag carrier blank, and glue it down for routing out. Smaller than the previous one, but feels better, and I have high hopes it will work better. Never even thought about a picture, will try to remember next time.

Got a few more nails in. On the right side I can push a nail into a pilot hole pretty easily, except for the leaning on the left arm, and stretching the right. Then whack it in with the hammer. Two of those was my limit tho, both shoulders complaining very much about their treatment. Still want two or three more nails in, I figure better too many nails than not enough, so will try to finish that up next time.

On the left side, much easier on my body overall to get in there. However, when I drill nail pilot holes, even with a backer board, the bottom side always winds up splintery, and pretty well blocked. I drilled both brackets at the same time, with the bad side on the left winding up on the open side. My usual solution to this is to hit that side with the sander. Forgot to do that. I could easily see where the pilot holes were before I positioned the bracket, so set a nail in position, then gently tapped it in, repeat two more times. Got it positioned, and those three nails, driven with minimum trouble, then went to the right bracket. But with the left bracket, now I can't see the backs of the pilot holes. Even after I hit it with the sander. I was able to get 'one' nail in, by feel, and driven. I've been mulling it over and think that shining a flashlight on it will help me find more holes. But at least both brackets are in position, and are getting firmly nailed. Overkill is our friend. :lol:

Now need to consider the top. OK, no problem, had a couple of pieces taken out of a previous project, different thicknesses, but just cut one in half - the brackets are 22" apart, the pieces are 4' long. Re-checked which I wanted to use, didn't quite believe what I saw, but both pieces are 36" long. OK, killed that thought. I could use both, but that would mean two thicknesses in the one shelf, not good. But, even as I finished the last paragraph, it hit me - a K.I.S.S. solution. Cut a couple of strips as wide as the thinner piece, put them on the brackets under the piece, and it will boost it up to the same height as the thicker piece. Glued of course. Problem solved. I was afraid for a bit that I'd have to use some of my good plywood for a simple tool shelf, that wouldn't be good. I'm not promising any pictures of the shelf when it's done, it ain't gonna be pretty, but it definitely will be functional. Beauty is in the function, or something like that.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Wow, finally. Shelf up, glue drying. The flashlight did the trick for finding the pilot holes on the left side. A bit tricky tho, holding the flashlight in the left hand, bracing the left arm, reaching with the right, getting a nail (barely) started, then reaching around for the hammer, and gently tapping, when whacking the nail. Mission accomplished, now eight nails in each bracket. 

The top was a bit trickier. One piece was thicker than the other. And instead of the core being one piece as originally thought, it was two, and the outer plywood pieces were in three sections. Wonder why I did it that way? But got them both cut to lengeth, 23 inches, then a bit of work with the circular saw, and a mallet and chisel, then more mallet and chisel work, and they were both very close to the same thickness - close enough anyway, was getting tired of messing with it. They are both now in place, glued, and glue is drying. Ready for use tomorrow. No picture, too ugly for that, but definitely nice and sturdy, and just what I needed. 

Was able to rout the new model plastic bag carrier, and gave it a test run today. I was right, it works a lot better than the first version. Even without the edges rounded I was able to carry a greater load than with the other. Now need to drill pilot holes in it, and start pumping some out. It is about 1/4" less long than the first one, and 1/2" less tall. Bonus, this now will let me cut out two blanks, from the same space that it would only allow one of the first design. Saving wood. Pictures.

Got a stack of stuff ready to be routed out. Two piggy bank pieces, chess piece master to start, several more I can't recall what they are just now, AND a rectangle that I will be able to rout an accurate rectangle from the pieces cut out of the center of the piggy bank, which I will then cut on the table saw into 1 1/8" strips, and get to try out my GR200-Gripper for the first time. Looking forward to that. After I get the fence accurately adjusted to the saw blade, not like the last fiasco. 

Now almost ready to look over the router table and see just what it will take to extend the left side at least, possibly the right a bit also. And still keep forgetting to list my wood lathe on craigslist. 

Life ain't bad at all. Mostly.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Ah, yesterday was the best shop time in a long time. I got my new shelf pretty well filled (still needs to be properly organized), used my sabre saw, table saw, drill press, hand drill, hammer, nails, nail puller, glue, spring clamps, router, got most of my routing backlog taken care of, worked on two new masters, all-in-all wound up generating so much sawdust I even had sawdust in my boxers. Now that's a productive day. :lol:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Got my wood lathe listed on craigslist, finally. Got my lathe sold, and gone, today. The shop almost looks roomy now. :sarcastic:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

More shop time today, and pictures. Started by cleaning up some of the stuff that getting rid of the lathe revealed. Long ways to go. Then routed out the two plastic bag carriers I had glued up. And immediately notice the bit was cutting a lip on the first one. Checked and somehow I had managed to NOT get rid of all the lousy 3/8" stuff, and both of them had that. So popped the router and lowered it a bit, and good to go from there. Then cut out all my masters of my chess pieces.
First picture is all the pieces, and the base on the left. And I see that the pawn is taller than it's supposed to be, I'll have to take it down a bit when I make the new master for it. Otherwise, all is not bad. And I am NOT going to spend a lot of time trying to get each side of the king and queen exactly alike, they go pretty much as is.
Second picture is the new knight, compared to the old knight. The new one is 2" tall, and the base is 1" wide. Considerable smaller than the old. In the background you can see some of the pieces that were glued up to make masters for routing the new chess pieces. 
Then decided to add some router plate pictures.
The third is the new master for routing my plates. The hole is right at 1 1/2", I had thought it was a bit larger. I later drilled a 1/2" hole near the front, so I can hang the plate, with router, on a nail from a rafter. You might be able to see the 3 dots marked on it, that is where my routers will have holes drilled to fit screws to screw it to the plate. A different type of router may require different spacing, no prob.
The fourth is the underside of a router plate, with the router attached. It's the one I use most, so just popped it out for the picture. Didn't come out that great for some reason.
The fifth is the router table, with the plate out. You can see the lip on each side, the one on the left is about 1/2", the one on the right is about 3/4" for some reason, and there is a 1/4" lip at the back. This one looked great on the camera, but didn't come out that great for some reason. 

The reason the router plate master says down, is because the notch in the right corner will go in the right corner of the opening. When I put that side of the master down, then the nail holes in the router plate will be hidden when it is in the table. That just reminds me to do it that way, and the other side says up. You can see how the notch goes in the fourth picture. Well, that is part of the reason. The other reasons is, this way I didn't have to put a lot of time trying to get each side of the plate exactly the same, so it wouldn't matter which side went up - this saves a whole lot of hassle.

Made a wood run yesterday, so set for a few days.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Finally. Had my first opportunity to use my new Gripper. And it's great. Even on the simple little job I used it for today, it saved me a significant amount of time, and held the piece of wood nice and stable. Thanks guys. 

Cut four pieces with it, they were glued to the other chess master pieces I had glued up yesterday, then routed today. I'll wait until tomorrow to glue the chess men in place. Have a bit of sanding to do on a couple of the pieces, along with a bit on the two parts I routed, then should be good to go. 

And, decided to get a start on the next mod on my Squirrel Rifle stock, while I had the time. On the left side of the router table you can see the chess master pieces I glued up. I'm pretty sure I posted the stock, before version, on this thread. If not, I'll post it so you can compare. Life is basically good.
Ah yes, post 34, on page 4.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

JOAT said:


> Finally. Had my first opportunity to use my new Gripper. And it's great. Even on the simple little job I used it for today, it saved me a significant amount of time, and held the piece of wood nice and stable. Thanks guys.


I agree about the Gripper, Theo. I spent some time on the router table today working on the secret project and used my gripper constantly. As you say it gives great control and I like the fact that my hands stay out of trouble.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Gaffboat said:


> I like the fact that my hands stay out of trouble.


The most important part of all. Secret project? You can tell me, I won't tell anyone. :yes4:


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

JOAT said:


> The most important part of all. Secret project? You can tell me, I won't tell anyone. :yes4:


I know you are an agent in good standing Theo, so set your decoder ring to B6 and you'll get the answer in this message: WOAYNA PYKIYA WHIAIP ZAREYA. Remember to keep this information secret until Q Section is ready for wider release. Oh, this message also is for you: ZNEJGU KQNKRW HPEJA


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Gaffboat said:


> I know you are an agent in good standing Theo, so set your decoder ring to B6 and you'll get the answer in this message: WOAYNA PYKIYA WHIAIP ZAREYA. Remember to keep this information secret until Q Section is ready for wider release. Oh, this message also is for you: ZNEJGU KQNKRW HPEJA


Oh drat, now I've got to find the stupid decoder ring? Isn't anything simple anymore. Bah. Humbug.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Well, lacking access to my decoder ring, spent some good shop time today. Got a grumpy fish cane rough cut out today, so should be good to go in a day or two on that. Got some more cleaned up. Boy, when that late moved out I was finding all sorts of stuff I didn't even know I had in there. Got some nice short pieces of air dried logs. Lots of sawdust. Measured the base of the takedown bench, and it's 33" long, which will extend my router table nicely. Just need to move some stuff, and find somewhere to put them, out of the way, so I can move it over, and start measuring just how much to extend the legs. 

The takedown bench is based on a two part takedown reloading bench, for reloading at the range. I think I've got the original article in my picture files. I made three legs instead of four, for uneven surfaces. Then decided to convert it to a tool tower, instead of reloading. The tower accepts bases on a variety of tools, bench sander, bench drill press, and so on, with one bolt to hold them in place, if they tend to move. Tried that just once, and it about killed my back, with nothing to lean back on to rest it. So, the top of the bench came off, the end the tower was on was cut off, and the rest used for I don't know what all. Saved the bottom, and now happy I did. The tower was a bit, a lot, too short, for me to sit in my chair and use, so chopped it in half, put some glue sticks inside, and tallered it. Works great. One essental tool is my pounderonner. This is 2"/3" of glued together plywood, making a nice solid surface I can pound things on, drive nails, and so on. 

Glued some more chess master pieces together. And totally redesigned my plastic bag carrier, from about 5 3/4" long, and 3 1/2" tall, to about 4 1/2" long, and 2 1/2" tall. Still need to cut out the blank and see if it works well, may have to extend it a bit. I'll rough cut it out, then use a straight edge from the two masters ago to rout the parts straight. I glued a piece of scrap on the bottom of that, to support the end not tacked to the blank, that'll keep it flat. 
Ah, found a picture of my tool tower.
The new carrier design, I think one will fit in a shirt pocket, hope so anyway.
And the old master for the straight edges. Had to put the rasp under it to get it to stand up.

Unfortunately, the original article on the take down bench is on my other computer, the one I can't access. Ah well.


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

Wow Theo totally kewl - I'ma need a new cane... lol


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Good to see that you are getting shop time, Theo...

Has been cold, wet and windy here for the past few days. Cannot even go out to the car port....Ah well, the weather always changes.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

OutoftheWoodwork said:


> Wow Theo totally kewl - I'ma need a new cane... lol


No prob. In fact I just went to the post office today and asked what shipping would be on one. Just let me know what you want. I'm doing a grumpy fish cane right now, and have a grumpy turtle, grumpy buzzard, happy buzzard (actually it sort of looks like it might be on something), yardstick canes - Home Depot & Lowes, and a bunch more designs still to cut out. Anything I'm doing just now I'm considering seconds or prototypes, because there are a few issues I'm working out, so they'll be $15 each, plus $10 shipping. They will go up when I get things all sorted out.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> Good to see that you are getting shop time, Theo...
> 
> Has been cold, wet and windy here for the past few days. Cannot even go out to the car port....Ah well, the weather always changes.


Yep, having fun now.
You have to think positive James. After all, it is all outside. :yes4:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Progress today. Got my latest plastic bag carrier blank cut out (photo one), and it is just what I'd hoped for; 4 3/4" by 2 1/2", and it will fit in a shirt pocket, with room to spare. So, that is glued to a rough cut piece, and that will be my new master. With that size, I can get three or four blanks out of the same size piece of plywood that would only give me maybe two blanks of the old carrier.

Churning right along on my chess masters too. I had planned on describing this part a lot earlier, but lost the internet. Will have to try to recall what I meant to say.
In case you got confused on what I was talking about on my chess masters and all:
Picture two is a completed master, with a blank nailed on, ready to rout. This is the bottom.
Picture three is from the top, showing the nails, and you can also see what the routed bishop will look like, a bit weird. 
Picture four is from the side, showing the layers of the master.
Picture five is the routed bishop. The bishop looks better than the picture indicates.
Picture six is the chess master, ready for the top piece/back to be routed.
Picture seven is it routed. The two indentions in the sides are for my thumb, and first finger, so I keep them safely away from the bit, and makes it a bit easier to handle - and three layers of 1/2" plywood give something nice and bulky to grab onto.
Picture 8 is the knight I routed out. It came out better than the bishop, and am debating whether to make a new bishop, and bishop master. But first I'll try sanding the master a bit, and see if that helps, I think I was anxious to see how it came out and was going a bit fast also. I think I will also need to rough cut a bit closer than I did on these two. 

Small pieces like that, 1"X2" are hard to hold by hand. Very hard. If you're working with just that, as I did to rout a semi-circle for the bishop, I have found vice grips work nicely. That too is part of the reason I developed my thick chess masters, with a good grip on one, it's hard to lose control. 

I had to do a bit of scrollsaw modding on the horsey, under its jaw, because originally the bit would not fit in there, and when I routed the back piece, it came out looking weird. Took a few minutes, but much better, and I believe I will leave it as is. 

A bit rude and crude just now, but the final versions will be a bit better. Once I get my masters the ways I want (which probably means remaking several), should be able to pump out quite a few chess pieces in a day. We're having fun now.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Well, the theory for making these chess pieces is working out very satisfactorily. I will have to do a bit of sanding on the individual masters, I am sure, to get results that are more satisfying to me. But, before that I will have to see how the pieces turn out double thickness - that is glue the routed piece onto a strip of wood, then rout that. I still have a couple of the cut out chess pieces that need some sanding and shaping before they are glued into a master. I'll see how those turn out, but in actuality, I am anticipating starting from scratch on at least one of the masters. Which is no biggie really, just take a bit of time, what with waiting for glue to dry. My only real concern is getting the master for routing out my octagon bases - that took me several tries, and a lot of careful cutting and sanding, to get something that was satisfying. Really don't care to go thru that one again, so I'm saving that one until last, to gain skill from doing the chess pieces, those are only a minor PITA to redo, no biggie. 

Looking the way they do now, the knight and pawn don't actually look bad, probably a lot of people would be satified with them as is, especially since I will be giving the majority of them away. While I am not going for museum quality, I'm not really content, so will redo as required to get something that satisfies me. You've got the idea of how I make them, so about all I'll go thru now on how to will be making them double thickness, 1/2" plywood. That'll be a new one for me too. 

These were originally designed as Toys For Tots, and while I can part with the coin to make the pieces, they'll largely make use of scraps anyway, I can't afford decent boards. There are some decent vinyl boards that would work well, but at $5+ per pop, no way. I had found a checkerboard felt backed vinyl tablecloth that would have cut up into boards at a very reasonable cost each, something like around $.50 each I believe; that I could pop for, no prob. But they're sold out, and don't respond to e-mails from me. So, it looks like I'll wind up getting thin plastic table cloths, checkerboard pattern, with a cost of about $.05-$.10, each. Flimsy, but better than nothing.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

You are making progress, Theo.

Good to see.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Thanks james. I check Etsy - Your place to buy and sell all things handmade, vintage, and supplies periodically, to see what they have in the way of chess sets, for inspiration, and to gasp at the prices some of those people are asking for their 'handmade' chess sets. Saw one today, board included, the pieces were bandsaw or scrollsaw cut, and the board was 'different', the squares rose, until they were a 'hill' in the center of the board. From what I could tell, my work on my chess sets right now is at about the same level as that. Which is to say I would not be listing it for sale just yet. But the price listed is $195. Amazing how much value being 'handmade' boosts the price.

Here is another 'handmade' set, but this one is apparently much harder to make, or something, because the price is $700. http://www.etsy.com/listing/6761316...rch_query=wood+chess+set&ga_view_type=gallery I spotted a blemish or two on the pieces, so I'd say I'm pretty close to the same level of competency as the maker. 

Oh yes, I check canes for inspiration too. A lot of those prices make me gasp also.

But, I promise you, you're not going to see any of mine priced anywhere near either of these, and these aren't even the most expensive ones on there. Interesting, very interesting.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I have decided, I will be redoing several of my chess men. The rook, knight, and pawn, will remain as is. The bishop definitely will be redone, it just does not come out as appealing (I guess that is as good a word as any) as I would like; it's a fairly small piece, and just does not rout quite like I would care for it to, as is; not sure yet if I will go close to the same look, or different. So, it is due for change. I am going to go ahead and sand some on the king and queen, then set them up in their respective masters, but I am not counting on retaining either as is. I have a lot of chess set pictures saved, so have been reviewing them, and have a pretty fair idea of which way I will be going with the pieces.

Also have a lot of pictures of chess boards saved, for future reference. Some of those are very ornate/fancy, while others are simpler. I'm posting the picture of one that especially piqued my interest, not especially fancy, pretty simple really, don't go for the chess pieces, but I really like the looks of the board.

Also posting a picture of one of the examples of chess sets for sale on Etsy. Definitely not my cuppa, but interesting in a weird way.

Took a nap earlier, long nap and it turned out, woke up late, so up for awhile before I go back to bed again.

Ah, what the heck. Here's a simple chess set, that I had thought about before, and may eventually do something like it, I have a complete set of rubber stamps.
Here is one of the more ornate chess boards, again, interesting, in a weird sort of way.
And a chess board that appeals to me, wouldn't mind trying to do one some day.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Yowzer!!!!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Dang, that last table is something else. That could be alot of fun to build...

thanks for the post Theo...


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

Where can we see some pics of your completed chess sets! Looking forward to them!
Thanks

Jim Arnold


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Dang, that last table is something else. That could be alot of fun to build...
> 
> thanks for the post Theo...


Well, if you give it a shot, make sure you take pictures. Looking at it again tho, looks like adding a base to it would be a good idea, don't know if it'd be real stable as it. But, make one, see if it's stable, and if not add a base. No prob.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

JimArnold said:


> Where can we see some pics of your completed chess sets! Looking forward to them!
> Thanks
> 
> Jim Arnold


Here. When they're done.


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

Ok, Thanks! I thought I read in you profile that you 'made' chess sets. Here's the shop names of the places you took these pics from without giving any credit.

FunnyFarmToyBarn here's the link to the shop that makes the first set you pictured. Their sets are playable, but they are not chess set designers like the maker of your second pictured set


Naturalchess. The maker of the set in your 2nd pic. The processes this man uses are his own, refined from years of making chess sets. His work has been featured in many magazines, and he sells worldwide. His work is unique. This "handmade" chess set maker knows the game, most don't have a clue, and you can easily tell from looking at their sets. In particular here is that last board, sure it's an interesting design, wood species contrast is intereting, but no chess players would want to use it because this person does not know how to play chess, can you tell why from looking at it? 

couldn't locate the shop where you got your 'stamped' set from, the third set you've pictured. Nothing to say here except those are not rubber stamps, maybe routed, one very interesting aspect though, this person does know how to play, he includes directions for how the pieces move on the bottom of each piece. If nothing else this set of pieces IS about the game.

The forth set pictured, the big pile of resin mold, at least you can play on it, couldn't find this one either.

The last table you have pictured is a prime example of people who know nothing of the game and, therefore, the design requirements. Imagine the price is in the thousands for that bistro table (gasp). Might even have been made by a 'famous' artist. Anybody here with a bandsaw and handful of 2 by 2's and some glue could make that "chess table" in no time. These people should stick to what made them 'famous'. Couldn't locate the shop owner here either. Problematic when you start posting pics of other people's hard work without at least saying where it came from.

Not sure of the motive behind assessing your own talents and skills relative to pics you choose online, are you trying to convince yourself or the others on the forum? Especially since these people have actually made and sold thousands of sets, when you haven't made even one.

If you wanted people to gasp at the prices why didn't you post any of the $2K + sets (sorry about the blemishes!). JimArnoldsChessSets on etsy

In any event, thanks for the publicity, can't wait to see pics of your set!!!

Jim Arnold


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

After some further research, I fould out that the forth set pictured is a copy of the Sebastian character's chess set from Blade Runner. The pieces do not look like resin mold, rather extremely and precisely detailed pieces carved. Maybe lost wax investment casting with a stone mix, can't tell. Here's the link to many more pics of this set and other work by Rick L. Ross, his work is flat out incredible!!! Nope can't post links yet...a short form flickr.com/photos/ricklross/5096103414/in/photostream/


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

JimArnold said:


> Ok, Thanks! I thought I read in you profile that you 'made' chess sets. Here's the shop names of the places you took these pics from without giving any credit.
> In particular here is that last board, sure it's an interesting design, wood species contrast is intereting, but no chess players would want to use it because this person does not know how to play chess, can you tell why from looking at it?
> 
> couldn't locate the shop where you got your 'stamped' set from, the third set you've pictured. Nothing to say here except those are not rubber stamps, maybe routed,
> ...


Ah, a pro, perhaps you will do a tutorial on making chess sets.

Yep, made is accurate. At the time. I did in fact, but stopped long ago, just now taking it up again, but with much smaller pieces. I've got a picture somewhere comparing my 'new' horsey with the old. My icon is one of the wooden figure banks I made, but haven't made any of those for awhile either. 

I didn't post credit for the sets, because I didn't know them. When I start a new project, it means I do a lot of research, which generally involves saving loads of pictures. Which is what I did with the chess sets, I probably had 200 pictures at one time, I just save whatever strikes my eye at the time, and save it. Then go thru them later and cull a bunch, then cull a bunch more, until I get down to not so many pictures. Which is what I did in this case, I had never thought I would be posting any of them, just for my own use, so didn't save any who did 'ems. 

Not a clue on why the last board wouldn't be suitable for playing on. Eight squares each way, looks playable to me. Seems to me it might have come off of one of the design sites. And if I recall right, the price was $300. 

I have not a clue where I got that block set either. Yeah, they do look like they were routed, but I said stamped, because I have a set of rubber chess stamps, and they would work for stamping on plain blocks of wood. I know I said I check Etsy, but I also check toy sites, chess sites, and wherever I can find chess sets. And a lot of them don't tell who the maker is either. 

Well, in this case, the chess pieces are not coming out at the level of quality I want. The larger ones I made before came out very well, and I was very satified with them. These new ones are considerably smaller and so far are not making me laugh with joy. I put at least part of that down to putting too much detail in when I originally cut them out with the scroll saw, and when they are routed, it loses that. However, I think I have it in hand now - ALL of them are going to get done anew, with the exception of the pawn. I do have two designs for the rook, and two for the bishop, just need to see which I like better. I also cut out a new horsey and I think that will come out much better than the old. The king and queen are going to be from scratch - yay, 1/4" graph paper.

Didn't post so people could gasp at the prices. I just save pictures I like, for inspiration. I don't much like the really expensive sets because it would be so hard to even try to play with them, they're collector items. But if you can get $700, or $2,000, for a set, more power to you. I've got absolutely no problem with that.

I would like to see pictures too, but it looks like there is a bit of a slow down. I was routing some blanks for my new chess masters, got a couple done, turned the router back on, and it spun about 3-4 revs and stopped. Hmm, tried again, same. Held the handle switch down, dead. So, I still have two working routers, and another that needs a wire resoldered, and not a clue what killed this one. But didn't feel like swapping router and bits today. 

And welcome aboard.


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

Thanks for the welcome and I'm glad to be here. I'm always interested in learning more from the people in the know, and especially like to see what comes out of people's minds in their galleries. Tons of outstanding work here, and I AM looking forward to seeing pics of your set, it's enjoyable for me to see the many ways pieces are designed and made, and it's good for the game too.

I can't believe that table sells for that low a price! That's pretty work worth three times the price, not my opinion either, I could sell that for a grand, and for two thousand with my 1849 Staunton pieces on it. The one very large problem with it's design it is that there's no place to set the captured pieces. Some guy is going to spend whatever to get it and put his expensive pieces on it and it will look great and make a really pretty display, but he won't put his expensive pieces on the floor or in his lap for a game that might take hours. That's what I mean about not knowing the 'game', and same goes for piece designs too, there's tons of themed sets out there that are very detailed, look great, and they're set up like a chess set, a light side, a dark side, but they'll all be the same height, no rhyme or reason to the position the characters hold, no indication of the classic piece notation of the Staunton designs (even the simple stuff like putting a crown on the Kings and Queens, etc.), they're very difficult, at best, to play with. Those sets are more like the collector type stuff.

I do know what you mean about being wary to touch, let alone play with expensive sets, price ranges are all over the board, from like $5 at Walmart to Precious gem encrusted sets, like the Faberge set that is priceless. I did a show in FLorida several years back and the guy at the booth next to me, handed me a piece from a Chinese ivory carved set from the 17th century that he bought from the Royal Family...I wouldn't touch it. With wood, I think it's different, I only make sets that people can play, onus is on me to make chess sense out of a theme, but also to design chess pieces, which means pieces that are going to get dropped on the floor, knocked over, thrown at people, etc, but also pieces designed so I don't have to replace them. Tough to keep a good glass, or stone, or ceramic set intact for a long period of time with continual use, usually those end up in the closet, for chess pieces, wood is the logical choice for materials. I have a set getting ready for the 2014 Calgary Stampede Art Auction that I hope will sell for $8K, I'll post pics when it's done. My prices might seem high, but I have a waiting list a year and a half long at the moment, I don't call myself a pro and I never comment on my own work other than to say I had fun with this one or this one was a pain in the behind, it's not for me to say. 

It is a huge pet peeve of mine that woodworkers always feel they have to low ball their prices to sell their work, that they can never get paid for the hours they put into a project, that they can only sell cheap stuff. That's garbage!!! If you only have 'cheap' stuff to offer, that's all you will ever sell. My prices are based on the market and the demand, and I know the chess market better than anybody, I have to, it's as much a part of my job as making the sets, and I'll be raising my prices at least another 10% by the end of the year.

I have taught a bunch of wood carving classes over the years, I enjoy that. Will sometime get around to publishing the sketches and patterns of my designs too, there's about 100 of them right now. I don't have any thoughts for a routed set yet, but something will come to mind sooner or later and I will do a tutorial, I need to learn to use my router for more than just putting an ogee on the board trim. I've watched the show, but I always end up just enjoying how you get from point A to the finished project and admiring the work. I need to learn a lot and practice even more and I'm sure something will hit me along the way for chess pieces, and the board too for that matter! And I think I'm in the right spot for learning.

The set in your forth pic that I said was a pile of resin mold couldn't be further from the truth. The guy who made that one is Rick L. Ross. It's a copy of the set 'owned' by the JF Sebastian character from Blade Runner. If you go to flickr and type his name in, he has a bunch of pics and his work is exquisite!!! I think the pieces are made with some kind of 'lost wax' casting process or clay sculpted models made into molds, there's a TON of work in that set, he is an artist! From reading about him, I'm not so sure if it was a copy or it was the original used in the movie.

Jim


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

JimArnold said:


> Thanks for the welcome and I'm glad to be here. I'm always interested in learning more from the people in the know, and especially like to see what comes out of people's minds in their galleries. Tons of outstanding work here, and I AM looking forward to seeing pics of your set, it's enjoyable for me to see the many ways pieces are designed and made, and it's good for the game too.
> 
> I can't believe that table sells for that low a price! That's pretty work worth three times the price, not my opinion either, I could sell that for a grand, and for two thousand with my 1849 Staunton pieces on it. The one very large problem with it's design it is that there's no place to set the captured pieces. Some guy is going to spend whatever to get it and put his expensive pieces on it and it will look great and make a really pretty display, but he won't put his expensive pieces on the floor or in his lap for a game that might take hours. That's what I mean about not knowing the 'game', and same goes for piece designs too, there's tons of themed sets out there that are very detailed, look great, and they're set up like a chess set, a light side, a dark side, but they'll all be the same height, no rhyme or reason to the position the characters hold, no indication of the classic piece notation of the Staunton designs (even the simple stuff like putting a crown on the Kings and Queens, etc.), they're very difficult, at best, to play with. Those sets are more like the collector type stuff.
> 
> ...


Seems that we have neglected to welcome you to the forum, Jim.

Welcome.

Thanks for giving us a profile.

The view from your drying shed must be great....


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

JimArnold said:


> and I AM looking forward to seeing pics of your set, it's enjoyable for me to see the many ways pieces are designed and made, and it's good for the game too.
> 
> I can't believe that table sells for that low a price! The one very large problem with it's design it is that there's no place to set the captured pieces. Some guy is going to spend whatever to get it and put his expensive pieces on it and it will look great and make a really pretty display, but he won't put his expensive pieces on the floor or in his lap for a game that might take hours.
> 
> ...


This is a nice place to be. I'm kinda anxious to see my pieces too. I just finished laying out the patterns for the king and queen, simpler, more straight lines, but stil 'sort of' tradtional, in a way. More or less. But I'm happy with them. I've seen pieces that were scrollsawed, bandsawed, but can't recall any that were routed. I'm not sure just where I got the idea, but think from the canes I make. My pieces are basically 2d, not 3d. 

If I run across that table again I'l try to remember to post where I found it. One of the fashion or design sites I think. But if I had that kind of money I'd just have a little brunette there, just waiting to carry captured pieces over to a side table. No prob. 

I don't even have a waiting list just now, except for me, let alone a year and a half. I do want to see pictures of that set. 

I don't expect to get rich from woodworking, and I sure wouldn't quit my day job, if I had one.  I've been to the flea market and saw a really poorly made stool/step, whatever, hammer marks all over, close fit at one end, gap at the other, and an asking price of $75. I'd have been ashamed to keep something like that in my shop, let alone try to sell it for that much. On the other hand, I've seen work by retirees, small things really, priced at $5-10 or so. Some is pretty simple, but nicely done, and some is pretty complex, still nicely done. I figure if they broke it down to an hourly rate, some of these guys would be lucky to be getting 50 cents an hour. I guess they just want something to keep them busy. I can't see it myself, If I couldn't wind up making 'at least' $10 an hour, after materials are deducted, then I won't make it, except maybe as a gift. Yeah, I do plan on making a few canes for veterans or little kids, and some chess sets for Toys For Tots, but that's something entirely different. My major problem is, I don't care for sales people, and don't want to be one. A bit of a Catch 22, eh? I know, I'll send them to you for sale on consignment. 
:laugh:

Anything you can pickup from me on chess pieces, you're welcome. Chess boards, doubt it. I'll probably make at least couple of those, one for me, and one for the older son, but I really like that one with the 2X4 base, not so much the top, but still thinking on that. I wouldn't be doing cutouts, like on the bottom, just 2X4s, maybe a drawer, maybe two, or maybe just lift the top off, a lift out for the pieces, and that's about it. 

Interesting pictures, I typed his name in a search, and found the page. Can't say I care much for the set itself, but the 'board' is interesting. Not all the details, or lights, just the shape.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

You could call this a rather interesting day for me. Or that it kind of sucked. First off, I'd parked a bit further to the right than I normally would. It's been a light rain, probably all night, and most of the day. And I thought I was going to get stuck in my own drive, the red clay does get slick when it's wet. But made it, finally.

Back from town, shop time. Swapped out routers, couldn't find my router wrench to loosen the collet. Finally found a wrench that worked. Got the bit in, router in, plugged it in, hit the switch. Dead. What? Two in a row? Unplugged the power strip and plugged the router directly into the power cord. We have router. Yay. OK, power strip is bad. Plug in the first router to double check it works. Does not work. So, apparently a dead router AND a dead power strip. At least was able to proceed routing out the chess master pieces. 

So, glued pieces that needed gluing, including a couple that were glued to the wrong pieces, but got it all sorted out, finally. Dug out a couple of old patterns for the king and queen, went over them with the new pattern I am going to use. Should go well. Should. And got started on the master for the chess bases. I really hope this goes as well as it should, because it would be a real pain in the tookus to redo it, besides time consuming. Next time will need to be using my Gripper again, and cut out some 2"+ strips for the masters. Getting there. Will also see about cutting a batch 1 1/8" wide, for the routed pieces, and some for my pig bank build. 

At this stage is was somewhere around 3 hours in the shop I think, and decided to call it a day. 

I hope these new pieces will rout better than the others. If not I'm thinking I may need to step up a step or three on my plywood choice. First I think I'll check to see if there still any local cabinet shops, and if so, do they have scrap 1/2" Baltic plywood. If not may wind up buing a half, or quarter sheet, and give that a go, with the small pieces I'll be using it for, even a quarter sheet should last awhile.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

This guy did a nice job on a chessboard. "That's BARBARIC!" "That's Wizard's Chess!" Making my Harry Potter chess set


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Now, this is an appropriate table for the game of chess. Jigsaw castle-coffee table: Build your own castle in the living room | Hometone


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

JimArnold said:


> The last table you have pictured is a prime example of people who know nothing of the game and, therefore, the design requirements. Imagine the price is in the thousands for that bistro table (gasp). Might even have been made by a 'famous' artist. Anybody here with a bandsaw and handful of 2 by 2's and some glue could make that "chess table" in no time. These people should stick to what made them 'famous'.


After loads of searching, finally found that table here:
American Product Designers
Searched the name, and found this. 
Chess Table - Vladimir Kagan Design Group
No price on either site.
And I'm 100% certain neither site is where I originally found the table; because, amother things, it had a price posted. Considering how much this guy's stuff goes for, makes me wonder if it was a copy by someone else. I still like it, and am considering eventually making one for my son, but I would definitely add a base, to make it stable, and probably a good idea to make a small shelf under, on each side, to hold the captured pieces.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

I'm with you on this one Theo.. I like the table. One of the first things I thought was there would be a need for 'side' tables or ledges to place the pieces on. Also, perhaps hidden storage. 
I've done several chess boards and a walnut table "see pic".. Currently working on a cherry pedestal table. The next step will be for me to start creating the pieces. So with that in mind, I picked up a few flexcut knives/carvers and started tinkering with relief work and character carvings. 
There just isn't enough hours in the day  



JOAT said:


> I still like it, and am considering eventually making one for my son, but I would definitely add a base, to make it stable, and probably a good idea to make a small shelf under, on each side, to hold the captured pieces.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Whew!!!!


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Arctic chess. Non Sequitur | Comics | Seattle Times Newspaper :laugh:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> I've done several chess boards and a walnut table "see pic".. Currently working on a cherry pedestal table. The next step will be for me to start creating the pieces. So with that in mind, I picked up a few flexcut knives/carvers and started tinkering with relief work and character carvings.
> There just isn't enough hours in the day


Wow, nice table. You've got way more patience than me for a project like that. 

Seems to me I ran across a site in the last day or two about hand carving pieces, in the classical style. Sort of like hand carved Stauntons I guess you'd say. If I run across it again I'll post it.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Did a quick look, but didn't find the site I was referring to. However, did find a couple of other sites that you might be interested in, for practice, if nothing else.
Carved Viking Chess piece
Tiki Chess Set, Beginner's Wood Carving Project by Lora S. Irish
The Tiki set looks like it would be very hard to keep track of what piece is which. Be a lot easier if they were different heights.
And then there is Jim Arnold for inspiration. 
http://www.etsy.com/shop/JimArnoldsChessSets

Just ran across this, check out this guy's nautical chess set. You could alway try one of those. 
http://www.youtube.com/user/jeckert12/videos


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

The Harry Potter set is better known as the 'Isle of Lewis' set, you can get one at etsy from several people.."ogg the clever" has several for sale at etsy, think he uses a stone-base type resin.

Lora Irish is the Queen of patterns, she's published tons of books, and she's a superb wood carver.

That Nautical set looks pretty cool! 

Two Skies, that table is awesome! 

I haven't seen a routed set before...I have some thoughts for one, but I need time to play around for awhile, I don't know what is and what ain't possible with a router in this regard.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Thank You Theo!!! I've bookmarked all of those sites. Always amazing to me, just how skilled some folks are. I can't see me turning out anything of that quality anytime soon, but as they like to say, Ya gotta start somewhere 

thanks again!!!


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

James, that was my fault, I need to head over to the proper section and introduce myself.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Thank you Jim... very much appreciate the kind words. That table was built for a friend in Pittsburgh who belongs to a local chess club. Since getting it, I've had to say no on at least 3 different occasions for tables. Not such a bad problem to have I suppose....

Honestly the pictures don't do it justice...the walnut turned out just beautiful...here's another..


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

JOAT, I'm thinking about ditching the sets and building a boat. I'm over in the Elkin area, and it looks like you guys have been getting pounded even worse than us. I also got hit by the tornado nobody wanted to acknowledge two weeks ago tomorrow, lost a dozen hardwoods that won't go to waste. Watched two 15' oak sections fly right over my house, but have a walnut tree that will get cut up into 10,000 chess pieces, and lots of hickory that will feed the smoker for years!


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

that's just beautiful two skies! Classic! I can easily see an expensive Staunton set sitting on those squares. You guys familiar with the 'custommade' site?

check it out and see the prices those guys are getting for their tables, more towards stuff like that table we've been talking about, and less like Two Skies. The people that really play. The people that have the chess addiction bad. The people that are looking for something distinctive and classic (ie. the ones that have the money to afford the tables) would buy a table along the lines of Two Skies, and tables like that are just not out there...

Unless it's something special for a themed set, like that Samurai board with the live bonsai trees, or a castle or something, I'd really prefer to just make the pieces.

My Scottish Wars set is a castle very similar to that one you showed with the glass on it JOAT.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Hey Thank You Theo!!! I've bookmarked all of those sites. Always amazing to me, just how skilled some folks are. I can't see me turning out anything of that quality anytime soon, but as they like to say, Ya gotta start somewhere
> 
> thanks again!!!


No prob. I do a LOT of searching for inspiration for my own projects, so run across a LOT of stuff, and happy to pass some along. From the looks of that table you've already got some serious skills.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

No, I wouldn't consider us getting hit hard. I'm about 10 or so miles east of Raleigh. Been getting slow steady rain for the last day or two, but that's basically it. Definitely nothing like you got.

This guy's Pocket Cruiser is one I've been lusting to make for years. The Stevenson Projects Pocket Yachts Just not been able to. And, as far as I can recall I've only stepped on the deck of a sailboat once in my life, and it was tied to a dock, so can't explain why a sail boat. Actually, that's all I'd want to do, is make one. What I really want is reliale water transportation, not something depending on the wind to blow to move, I'm talking steamboat.

I went back and looked at that castle coffee table. I like your castle board better, partly because you have the board as part of the castle, not on a glass top. And this one wouldn't look bad, if it were made of wood. Actually, I don't think it would be so difficult to make from wood. I'll have to keep that in mind. http://www.hirstarts.com/chess/chess.html

Would love to have one of the Isle of Lewis clone sets. Maybe one day, when money is not as tight. Which reminds me, I went back to the link on carving the Viking, inspired by that set, and remembered that years ago I made a set of carving knives like those, from pieces of bandsaw blade, glued into plywood handles, then ground do different shapes. Worked quite well too, especially considering the price. Never used them that much, and they're lost somewhere in the shop now.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

I'm always looking for something new to try,,, perhaps not to excel at, but at least show some level of proficiency at. Usually working on 3 or 4 different things at the same time so as to not become bored. I do believe that I now have a full plate *LOL*... after this latest chess table, I've got to get to work on a Maloff style rocker that needs to be done by Feb 2014...Another Gerstner style tool box by Christmas 3 or 4 jewerly boxes by Christmas and now I'm becoming very interested in carving. What better way to learn than to do a set of characters for a chess set. Theo and Jim, thanks guys.. you've lit yet another fire  Last night I was sitting in my chair, looking at the carving section of the Lee Valley catalog, the Miss's walked by and said... "UT OHHHHHHHHHHHH"

Sometimes ya just gotta laugh 

Jim,,, Just this evening, I put 2 and 2 together, realizing who you are. Your work is a standard by which other sets are measured.. A pleasure to make your acquaintance.

Hope you gentlemen won't mind a little brain picking from time to time.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I keep going back to this board. And, the more I look, the more I'm convinced a clone wouldn't be that hard to make. I don't think it would come out fantastic, but I think it would be something a kid would love. I wouldn't mind one myself. Gothic Chess Set Building Instructions

Basically just make a box, with the chess board on top. Then cut out, or carve, or whatever, the details on all four sides, and basically, that's about it. The more I think about it, the more I like the idea. 

You could always paint it, to look like stone, but I like the idea of wood. Different varieties would look good. For a kid tho, I wouldn't get too fancy, they do tend to treat things rough at times. Yeah, I think I may make one for my young grandson. Be easier than that dratted monster truck bank probably.


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

Thanks TwoSkies, same here! If there's anything I can do let me know. I've just been at it for far too long. If you ever make another table like that, let me know, I'll make an 1849 Staunton set to sit on top...bet we could get a ton for it!!! 

JOAT, I can't believe they got all that stuff into that 17' boat! Plus, the mast is stepped on the deck, so you could just remove it yourself with the sails off I bet, they showed the pic of them just cruising under power...that thing would FLY with 10 horse on the back and manuever easily, forgot to see what the draft was. That gothic set...I made my castle in pretty much the same way. I had some friends in Scotland that took pics of several of the castles that the Scots and the English fought over way back when, and kind of morphed them all together. What I is was working with in the set was the idea to build a scene with the pieces intact at the start of the game. How it looks like both sides are part of the castle, I had to make this one first, and it led to the War of 1812 set where instead of castle walls the idea shifted to a boat so at the start you have two complete boats facing off in battle, then, as you move the pieces it all breaks apart, it led to that Train Robbery set, same idea, the train is intact at the start of the game and makes it's own scene, then as you play it breaks apart. Just finished this one for a Literature Professor up North. He's into teaching and reading and writing books so the bishops, kings, and queens are all books, held together by knights that are horsehead bookends so it looks like a library shelf, sort of, at the start, rook is a podium with a rampart facade, pawns are pens in ink wells (in the next edition, I'll make the pens into plumes). I think I can post pics now, I'll try to add a couple of that book set (almost nobody has seen it yet) and a couple of the Isle of Lewis set I did a couple years back, threw in a couple from the train set, the train is being robbed by a gang of desperados.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

JimArnold said:


> JOAT, I can't believe they got all that stuff into that 17' boat! Plus, the mast is stepped on the deck, so you could just remove it yourself with the sails off I bet, they showed the pic of them just cruising under power...that thing would FLY with 10 horse on the back and manuever easily, forgot to see what the draft was.


That guy's designs are remarkably easy to make too. This one was made and sailing, in under two minutes. Building and Sailing a Weekender - YouTube 
For a power boat, the Microtrawler design by Phil Bolger, is one of my favorites. His designs are easily build too. Been a fan of him for a long time. Microtrawler

Ooo pictures. Fantastic carving on all of those. But, the one that really floats my boat is the Isle of Lewis set. Just something about that one.

The book set is really interesting. But the first thought that hit my mind when I saw those pots and the pens, glue pots. Sorry. Definitely plumes next edition.


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

no apologies necessary, I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks!
Jim


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Been 2-3 days since I've been in the shop, got got in there today. Not a lot worth pictures, but did get seven chess masters started, six for the different pieces, and one for the base; actually eight, one for a spare, just in case, but ran out of glue, and I'd forgot to take my partial bottle to the shop. Got a picture of those glued and clamped. It'll be ALL new masters for the pieces. The flaton view is of the one for the base.

Got my king design laid out, but can't glue it in a master until I get it shaped. The second picture shows it, the two sides will be taken in with the router - believe it or not, that is the master for that on the right - it'll only be a one time shot, then tossed, so nothing fancy. I just hope the king comes out as well as I hope. But, if not, simple enough to lay out another and start over. Was going to do a queen, then it hit me, why do double work, because the queen is basically exactly like the king, except a flat top, versus the point on the king. So, once the king come out, and I can rout a good king, I'll just take 1/2" off the top, and put that in a master for the queen. No prob. In case you don't get it, some of this stuff I'm just winging, and don't actually know what I'm going to do, or how I'm going to do it, until I actually start on it. And, every once in awhile, I'll put something together, and once it's finished, I have not a clue how I did it; it was like that with the old chess masters I'd done long ago, I could see how it was done, but have not a clue how I did it and still be accurate, so the new ones look similar, but are put together entirely differently. But so far, everything is eventually coming out quite satisfyingly. It may seem to take quite awhile to do this stuff, but it ain't rocket science, and the only real time consuming part is waiting for the glue to set to go on to the next part. So, tomorrow should be ready to glue the pawn, rook, bishop, and knight, to master parts. Possibly even the king, have to see how that goes. The plywood I'm using now works fine for the masters, but I'm considering some Baltic or birch plywood for the pieces, I think they might come out better. Have to see if I can pick up some in a day or so, so I can compare. And, yeah, I could do all this with solid wood, but I like plywood, it pretty much fascinates me.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

My king came out as well as I had hoped, and it is now glued in its master. Will rough cut around it next time I'm in the shop, rout it, and drill nail pilot holes. Then I'll see just how nice a copy routs out. The first one will have the 1/2" point cut off the top, to become my new queen. Picture of the king. The sides routed nicely.

Also got my new bishop sanded, and glued to its master, picture. Along with the rook, knight, and pawn. This is the same system I used for my old, larger, chess pieces, and they came out nicely. Just hope these smaller ones come out decent. Also got my octagon base glued to its master. Picture. Really, really, hope this one comes out well, because it will be a real pain in the tookus to redo. So, now have chess masters going for everything but the queen, and that should be done in a day or so. Picture of the base, sideways, just because I liked the looks of the plies mostly, but to show what a finished (well, almost) chess master will look like.

I'll have to see what the results are after I rout out some pieces on each one, probably will need a bit of fine tuning (sanding), but overall, for a silhouette chess set from plywood, I'm thinking it's gonna be not bad.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

As it worked out, no shop time today. Bah. However, in doing some researching on-line ran across this interesting video. Best Chessmen Ever Workshop Best Chessmen Ever Workshop - YouTube Don't know as I'd go so far as to say best chessmen ever, but still interesting.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Hot dog, we're having fun now. Got all my chess masters done, with the exception of the queen. Here's a picture from the bottom, and the top, nail pilot holes not yet drilled.

Got examples of each routed out, and mostly they came out quite nicely. Picture of routed pieces, and you can see the nail pilot holes. The king looks a bit tilted, don't know if that's because of the master, the routed blank, or just his political leanings. The horsey came out quite nicely. The rook came out well, but I think I'll make another master with my other design, and see how I like that; they're almost identical, but this one was routed from a V notch, and the other the router bit went straight in. 

The king piece sacrificed it's top, and became the queen - no smart remarks, please. The queen is being glued up, and should rout out as well as the king. The top on the glue bottle is a Frenchs mustard screw top, I find them much handier than the regular pull top. The queen is glued with the nail holes from the king master facing out, so I can use them as guides for drilling the nail pilot holes.

The octagon base came out well. However - there is almost always a however, law of the universe, or the Gods' little joke, whatever. This however is, it is not as accurate an octagon as it started out as. So, I can spend who knows how long to get the 'perfect' octagon, or go with the flow. The part that was seated in the master came out a bit wide, so, I'm thinking what I'm going to do is just go with the flow, sand the opposite side down a bit, making it a bit wider, and live with it. 

And now comes the fun part. All my chess pieces have a 1" wide bottom, so will be cutting strips 1 1/8" wide. Then will glue the finished pieces on the end of each strip, and carefully rout both sides. I'm thinking just rout in a bit on each side of the bottom, then might be able to rout them completely off that way. Or not. Possibly just use the indents as a guide, cut with the scrollsaw, or bandsaw, and go from there. I'm going to have to see if I think that the 1"X1" base that will make will be sufficient to use as is, or glue onto a base. I'm thinking glue onto a octagon base. 

I have not a clue how that last little operation will come out, I've never done anything similar. :haha: Should be interesting, to say the least. Then when I get that far, I'll be getting back to my canes, the pig bank build, and a custom gun case. Oops, before then think that extending my router table will take priority. That'll just be a bit of a pain, not rocket science, need to move some stuff, and think I'll put my sliding mitre saw up for sale, just to get it out of the way. Drat, it's got less than an hour on it, and I figured out a better way to do what I got it for just after I got started with it. 

Now need to start thinking on how to paint the pieces, and any finish for them. I'm thinking paint both sides, use red for sure, and undecided on black or white for the other. Then maybe just dip the whole thing in wiping varnish or something. These are mainly scheduled for Toys For Tots, so am not about to spend a lot of time on finishing and all, want to get a set done, then start on another; I do want them a better quality than a lot of the stuff I see in stores nowadays tho, just not shooting for museum quality. These chess sets are going to cut my scrap wood buildup way down - hooray.

I'm pretty much happy now with all the chess pieces, and even the base. I 'will' be fine-tuning each one (sanding), to get them a bit better, and it wouldn't surprise me a bit if I decided to make all new, and improved, masters of most, if not all; just depends on how I can get these to look. I did toss my first routed base, and sanded the master some, and routed out another base. 

I was shooting for a style overall that would remind of the Staunton style, but not try to copy it, and with the possible exception of the bishop feel that I did. I am sticking with a 1/2" router bit for all of these, then if I have to use a smaller bit, 3/8" or 1/4", they will still come out the same as if I had used a 1/2", I don't figure I need real detail on these. Not sure if I said, and not going back to check now, but the king is 3", queen 2 1/2", bishop and rook 2", the knight is a hair over 2" because the ear(s) stick up a tad, and the pawn is 1 1/2" tall; so telling the pieces apart by height should be pretty easy also. Mmm, the base is 1/2" tall of course, and I believe 1 9/32" wide, or so.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Looking at the photos again, it looks like I did not get the tops of the masters as flat and as square as they should be - that would be the result of not getting the original quite right, comes of rushing. That alone is reason enough to remake them. The base master I will remake, but not sure if a new one will be any better, or just continue with what I'd planned. Decided to only paint one side, red, and leave the other natural - well, except for any finish I decide on. I think that will look better than black or white paint. Been thinking too of making eight pawn masters, and two each of the bishop, rook, and knight. Then I could tack my rough cuts on all of them, and rout a whole side at one time. But first I want to concentrate on doubling the pieces. If that goes as well as I hope, I'll make one of each, and post pictures. I'll keep working on getting these a bit better as I go along, but will be making pieces as I go, and concentrating more on extending my router table, then the other things. This is fun stuff.


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

Looking good, JOAT!


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

JimArnold said:


> Looking good, JOAT!


Thanks. Looking better at least. And once more into the breach we charge. :yes4:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Strange things in the shop today. Started my little bench sander to sand on the original chess master, to be sure the top is flat and straight, for when I rout out blanks to make the complete chess masters. Turned it off to check my progress, nothing, dead. Oh no, don't know if I've got money to spare for a replacement right now. Tried the power cord on the router, power. Tried the sander again, dead. So I sat for a minute or two figuring my next move, and I had left the sander turned on, and it started running again. Strange. Well, think I have the piece all flat and straight, and even narrowed it about 1/32" or so. Then proceeded to rout out five blanks and glued them down so I can progress to the next step in making a chess master. But if I don't buy more glue, I am dead in the water, did take the Titebond II to the shop, but way less than I had thought. Need glue. Probably will get Titebond, as supposedly it is paintable, and Titebond II does not do as well with paint. So, will try some paint experiments in the near future also. 

The knight master should be good as is, but will rout another one, and doublecheck. Same with the pawn master. My new rook master needed a bit of glue up today, so not able to check that yet. 

The queen master routed out nicely. However. Those howevers keep popping up. This one is, looking closely at it, and it is not quite as symetrical on each side as I had thought. Which means the king is not either. I'm not sure if I can even out the king master, or need a redo on that. If I get the king good, no problem getting the queen good. The bishop came out nicely, except it tilts a bit, so will redo it. 

Probably everyone is totally confused now about what I am doing, and how I am doing it. No prob, it's really the same thing I explained before, with pictures, just that this is fine tuning of small things I'm not really pleased with. 

Used the Gripper again today. Nice tool.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The switch on the sander might have dust in it. That's the most likely thing I can think of for it to start by itself like it did.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> The switch on the sander might have dust in it. That's the most likely thing I can think of for it to start by itself like it did.


Possibly, it was certainly covered with sawdust.

Talk about a bleah day. Woke up a bit later than I'd anticipated. Got a bit to eat, and off to town, to check the mail, and get a cuppa coffee. Post offce - Jeep not starting. Argh. Called the station, and they sent a tow truck, dropped the Jeep off, and gave me a ride home - I've known these guys for years, and if I need it, when the Jeep is running again, they'll even pick me up at home. Nice guys.

And, just as I got home, it started raining. Put everything together and it all pretty much killed all enthusiasm to work in the shop today. Bah. Humbug. But, tomorrow is a new day, and hopefully a bit better day. Life could be worse.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Theo, I would not trust any power tool that starts and runs by itself.

Sounds like the beginning of a science fiction movie......VBG.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

My younger son gave me a good circular saw. Except someone had taken off the on/off trigger. Put a cord on it and it comes on as soon as it's plugged in. No, I haven't been using it, but it's in good condition, so as soon as I can find a switch for it I'll put it on. I'll see what the sander does next time I go to use it, if it won't start right up, I'll check for sawdust in the switch.

Got the Jeep back today. They gave me a call, then came and picked me up. Not many places will do that. Turned out to be some starter relay thingie in the distributer of all places. Durn vehicles and computer stuff. $177 and I was on my way. 

Got back home and figured some shop time. Started raining as soon as I got in the shop, one of those nice steady rains that's going to last all day, and so far it has. Hoped it would let up by the time I wanted to go in the house, no way. Ah well.

Tossed the king and queen masters, of course. Also the old rook, will use the new version, after a bit of fine tuning sanding. The bishop tossed, it routed very nicely, but was just a shade off, so will fine tune sand it, and make a new master; same with the pawn. The horsey is the only one I'm satisfied with. Pretty much going with the base master for now, but thinking I'll try another and see how it works out. 

Got the master pieces started, gluing up, desperately need to get more glue. Got the new king marked out, and a master glued up to rout the sides on it, then will need to sand the pointed top. Once I get that done, glue it into a final master, rout it, and if it comes out well, use that one for the queen master, same as before. 

If I actually knew what I was going I'd be doing this a lot faster. But I've never routed out pieces this small, and am pretty much learning as I go. So, I wind up doing things over. But, fortunately, it's all interesting, probably because I'm learning as I go, if I wasn't learning, it'd be boring. But I also redo things because I know I can do better work on parts of it than I have. 

These will be in the ready to go stage comparatively soon, so have been thinking about finishes. As I said, one side will be red, the other unpainted. But am not sure about what finish yet. I don't want to spend a lot of time brushing a finish on, so have been looking up info on dipping finishes. Most of what I find is on game sites where the gamers paint their little game pieces, then either slop finish coats on, or dip the pieces. And none of them seem to agree with anyone else on what to use, or how to apply it. They do a LOT of pieces, because apparently every game that comes out needs different pieces. 

But been thinking about making some wiping varnish - 1/2 polyurathene/1/2 mineral spirits - and dipping the pieces in that, then sitting them upright on nails driven into wood, and let them dry. I've not tried it, but sounds good. Any comments/ideas on that? Some of the gamers don't thin, just dip as is.

I'd like to have felt bottoms on the pieces also, but am not about to cut out that many pieces. So, thinking maybe a bit of glue on the bottom and using flocking material. ??? Not tried that either.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Today I am a not sad person in a canvas dwelling. Got the pawn, rook, and bishop, fine tuned sanded, they all look quite accurate now, to the MkI eyeball. New master of each now glued. 

The jig I made to rout the sides of the king didn't come out quite MilSpec, but a nail here, and a nail there, did the trick; again, look quite symetrical to the MkI eyeball. It should rout a king nicely, but will be making a new king master anyway. Seems the jig and the nails caused a couple of tearouts on the top and bottom plies. No biggie, the bearing will ride on the center plies, so should work fine, just that it doesn't look very great. So, one king will be trimmed to make the queen, and one king will be to make a new king master - then it will be tossed. 

I won't know for certain, until I rout out one of each, just how well I did on them, but I have high hopes.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I can feel the dedication that you have to this project, Theo.

Waiting in anticipation, for the full set laid out on a board.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> I can feel the dedication that you have to this project, Theo.
> 
> Waiting in anticipation, for the full set laid out on a board.


Board? Board? Now I've got to make a board? 

Well, as a matter of fact, I do have an idea or two on a board.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Shop time today, and the Woodworking Gods will have their fun. Did I say I got glue? Small bottle of Titebond II, and a smaller bottle of Titebond. Seems the local hardward doesn't carry the good size bottle of wood glue, only the small one. But, it was a choice of getting those, or spending more on gas to go to where I could get the size I wanted, than the glue would be worth. So I got it. Bah.

Normally I would have opted for just Titebond II, but I heard somewhere, maybe read it on the bottle for all I know, that Titebond is more paint friendly than Titebond II. I know that I glued a paper pattern on one of my cane handles with Titebond II and then painted it. The side where my finger rides has worn the paint off. So gonna experiment a bit with the Titebond.

First thing I did was cut a piece of plywood, to glue it to a piece already in the shop, about 32" long, and this will be the top for a table for a sabre saw. When finished this should allow for easier following pencil lines with straight cuts. As it, it's hard to cut a nice straight line, even with a line to follow - because I have trouble seeing where the blade is cutting. Hope this will cure all that. It should be a lot handier at rough cutting blanks for my chess masters too, over the scroll saw.

Got that all glued up, clamped, and nature called. Got back and routed the masters I had made before, that is after I rough cut them on the scrollsaw. They all came out nice; but it took longer than I had planned on.

The king came out nice, so decided to rout out a new king and see how it looked. Came out great. Routed just as nicely as I had hoped. However. This however is, one side of the king is bowed in a bit, the other is nicely straight, just as I wanted. I looked at that and couldn't believe it, then looked at the master. Sure enough, the master is just the same way. The puzzling part is, I had already looked the king over before, and after, I glued it in the rest of the master, so I have not a clue how it could have wound up bowed like that. Which means, if I make a queen from it, the queen will have one side bowed also. About this time nature started calling me again, so I decided to call it a day. 

I guess what I will try first is... Hmm, I was going to say sand it and try to get a matching bow in on the other side, but the sander is still kaput. It worked when I first got in the shop, then when I tried to turn it on again, zip. I took out the switch, and not a speck of dust in it. I'm thinking the whole switch might be kablooy. My first Harbor Freight bench drill press quit about a week after I first got it, new switch at Lowes, about $5, and it's performed great ever since. I've heard that the Chinese can make some good machines, but their electrics kind of suck. I'll try to remember to hit Lowes for a switch and try that.

I guess I'll lay out another king, and see what I can do right this time. Picture of the bowed king and master below.

Supposedly you learn by your mistakes, but this time I can't figure what the mistake would be.


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

JOAT, a couple thoughts, when finishing with that many pieces (and the ones you make in the future for "Toys for TOTS", you were on the track with the nails coming up from the boards, if you use screws instead of nails (like a #8 2-2.5" long), then drill a 1/8th" hole in the bottom of your pieces, you can just screw them on and they will be stable for finishing. I use 3 or 4 or 5" wide strips of plywood (scrap) that are 24, 48 or even 8' long. Any finish will look good, I prefer lacquer because it dries in a heartbeat, one coat then 300 grit sand, two more coats then 400 grit, then one more and done and it can all be done in a day give or take.


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## JimArnold (Mar 13, 2011)

For the felt, I get the adhesive backed stuff that comes in different colors, if my bases are round, I trace the pawn 16 times, rook four times, etc. then use scissors to cut them out or one of my gouge chisels that kind of has a similar curve. Doesn't take that much time and will add quite a bit to the playing experience. Square bases, a paper cutter will have a set done in about 5-10 minutes, then peel the backing paper and go.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I'm thinking I'll be sticking with the nails, they're easy to put in and remove. As far as lacquer, I believe that has to be sprayed, and I'm staying away from spraying, and sanding too, for that matter.

All of my bases are going to be the same size octagons, and I don't feel like spending time cutting felt. So, I'll probably either leave them nekid, or glue flocking on. 

Interesting shop time today. Spent about 99% of it redoing the king. I decided I'd do like I did with my large original chess pieces - choose the better looking side, rout that, then flip the piece and rout the same side. Worked great for the large pieces. Not so great for this set. Bumps on each side of the king. And the master does not have the bumps. OK, toss that king, try again. Bumps again. Hmm. Repeat. Repeat. Finally got two relatively decent looking kings. Should have put both in the same photo, but didn't think of it. Time to try the sander, after I collected 'everything' I wanted sanded that is, wasn't going to turn the bugger off, if it started that is, until my sanding was finished.

I don't recall mentioning it before, but my avatar is one of the wooden figure banks I made. Going to start making those again later. And found the neck of my banjo today, so one more project to get going on again. I've got a kids puzzle rocking chair I'm trying to come up with a arm rest that I like for it, then probably make some more of those too - have had the masters for that a long time now.

Sander cranked right up. Did both kings, carefully, very carefully. Got the bumps nicely taken care of, and then the rest of the king hit with the sander. This was NOT a two minute job either, took my time, a lot of time. Result was, one king came out decent, the other king came out more decenter. The third picture shows both kings, I used the one on the right to glue into a master. I'll rout out a king next time, and see how it comes out. If not good, I've still got the other king to play with. The king in the master is a hair off in a couple of places, not so you'd really notice it, but if you look you would probably see. However, I think if it comes out well this time, I'll just go with it, and maybe do another later, to try and improve it. By that time I was pretty well tuckered out, so didn't rout any of the other pieces out, just sat there for awhile, smelling the sawdust. Life could be worse.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Interesting, interesting, interesting. I'm thinking now that most, if not all my problems are evolving from my router bit. It's a Bosch, supposedly carbide tipped, starting to perform more like dulling HSS. In the picture, on the left is the king I said I would keep as backup, if the routed one doesn't do well. In the center is the king routed from the master. You can see the top is rounded, that definitely should not be so. But the rest of it routed out well enough. And, on the right is my newest king master all laid out and rough cut with the scrollsaw. The fine tuning on this will be done with the bench sander - next time I go to the shop - and a new Whiteside bit put in the router, ready for the glue to finish drying in the next king master. The king is the only one causing me grief. Didn't rout any of the others out, to double check them, just wasn't in the mood today. ALL of my shop time was messing with that dadburn king. Must be a liberal. At least this keeps me out of the pool halls and off the street corners. 

Oh drat, lost the picture I was going to post, so got to find that. I'll come back and add it when I do. Found.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Some good progress today, but nothing picturable. I had forgot I needed to cut a couple more pieces for the king and queen masters, so got that done today. Had planned on some routing today, but forgot to take my new Whiteside bits out, but tried anyway. So, it'll be a couple of days before that is ready.

Tried the base, pawn, rook, and bishop, masters. The base came out great. But then looking at it closer, the two wide sides, are not quite parallel. Not by much, just enough to catch the eye if you look. I set the pawn on it, and it looks like it would be un-noticable. But I'm going to try to 'fix' the master, and see how that does; and if that doesn't work, 'fix' the base piece, and make a new master from it, and see how that does.

The pawn also came out great. But then when I stood it up and looked close, it seemed a bit tilted. Looked closer, and realized I had not used a piece with a straight edge, but used a scrollsawed edge. That master is good to go. Yay.

The rook came out nicely. However. It did have a couple of not so good spots. After looking very closely at it, and the master, came to the conclusion it was not the master, it pretty much had to be the bit. I'll try again with the Whiteside bit.

The Bishop also came out nicely. However. It also had a couple of issues, also apparently the fault of the bit, and not the master.

All in all I am content with today's results. Things would go along faster if it didn't take the glue so long to set. Yes, yes, I know, I say set when it would be correct to say cure, but I've been saying set for so long I doubt I'll change anytime soon. In fact, I don't think I've ever said 'cure' in relation to glue, ever. I've always said set, and I've always meant that for whatever was glued up is now ready for use. And when I say set, I mean the next day, I don't think I've ever used, or worked with, anything that was glued up the same day. Wellll, that's not entirely accurate. Some of the glues have a pretty fast tack time, so on occasion I have glued several pieces together the same day, but as far as actually 'using' something the same day, no.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Urg, what a day in the shop. Remembered to take my new Whiteside bits to the shop. Took out the old and looked it over, tossed it. Put a Whiteside in, and it was way too high. And the bolt for adjusting the height of the router, it turned. Could not do anything with it, so finally swapped routers. Got the bit in, at the height I wanted, then thought I was never going to get it in the table. However, finally got it in. 

I had already sanded the king, and it's looking good. If anyone can see any flaws, let me know, and you can do the next one. Same with the base, sanded the master a bit, and the one already routed, just in case. But rough cut a new blank and routed that and eyeball says it looks parallel now. Same deal, you find flaws, you make the next one. Got the king glued on, and will be able to rout the master next time, drill pilot holes, and give it a try. I'm thinking it will be good to go.

Had planned on routing a new pawn, bishop, and rook, to see how they do with the new bit, but that time I was shot.

Here's a picture of the king glued on the master, ready to rout. At the bottom right is the base I routed. Probably can't tell a lot of detail, but right now I'm happy with both, so decided to post a picture of them regardless. And if the king comes out good, that means the queen will come out good too. 

And found a couple of my wood figure bank wizards. The white streak on the red robe is from the paint peeling. I glued the pattern on with Titebond II, then used Acrylix latex to paint it. Found out long later, the paint doesn't do so great with Titebond II; however, have found it is supposed to bond much better with plain Titebond, so will be trying that soon. My wizard pattern has a lot of small details in it, so I can come up with varying features on the faces, by intermixing features, I can come up with well over ten different faces, I really can't remember how many just now. Need to get started on them again later too. Purple robe and hat, with a pink beard, that is what my grand-daughter wanted when I made her a two foot tall version years ago. These are six or so inches tall, the entire bank is ten or so inches tall, will just fit in one of those $5 flat fee post office boxes, if you put it in angled. I am definitely going to have to get back doing those little dudes, they're fun.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

OK, routed out a king today. Upon close examination found a few slight flaws, nothing major, but also nothing I figure I couldn't make disappear. So, took myself at my word, and making a new one. Touched up the king with the bench sander, got the pieces cut for a new master, and glued up, will glue the rest next time, and should be able to rout another king in a few days. And if there are any more slight flaws, they will immediately stop being flaws, and will become character traits. 

Didn't feel like cutting blanks for the rook, pawn, and bishop. Those will be routed another day.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

A sort of good day. Got the new king master all glued, then next time drill the nail pilot holes, and rout one out, to see what it looks like. If it's good, that'll be modded to be in the queen chess master - which is all glued up except for that. Got blanks roughed out for a king and queen.

Routed out the pawn, rook, bishop, and they came out great, seems like the minor issues actually 'were' with the old bit. However. You know the drill by now, there is almost 'always' a however. This one is that the two tips of the rook are a bit too pointy, and tend to splinter small pieces off. This happened on occassion before, but I put it to the bit. Apparently, just too sharp a point. Same thing with the bishop. But, otherwise, both pieces came out very nicely. At first thought of making new pieces, and new masters, then reconsidered. I'm not thrilled with the idea, but do believe that the problem probably will be answered by just sanding both pieces down a bit at the top, about 3/16" maybe. That will give each a flattish top. It will make them a shade lower than I would prefer, but each will still be taller than the pawn, and easily distinguishible from the other pieces.

However, again. Bench sander didn't start today. Started last time. But not today. Which means just now I have no accurate means of taking down the two pieces. 
However, all hope is not lost, I do believe I have a sanding stick or two still floating around, and if worse comes to worse, I should be able to do a reasonably accurate job with one of those, as long as I take my time, and pay attention to what I'm doing. Ah well, life could be worse. In Nam, at a reasonably local gravel pit, I saw two old men cutting a foot or so off of a section of railroad track. One hand hacksaw, one old man on each side, and they had it done in something less than half a day. Why cut it? It was a new gravel cracker. The gravel was made by one man squatting there, putting big rocks on the anvil, and making small gravel with a hammer. Like I said, life could be worse.

I was stationed on the coast, and while I was there, they made a fishing boat, about a 50 footer, entirely by hand, and entirely of wood. No power tools. Wooden pegs instead of nails too. Very interesting. I took pictures every time I went by, which was not near enough as far as I was concerned. Really wish I could have gotten a close look.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

The chess pieces are coming along great, and not so great. The new king 
master is great, routed out two very nice kings. Then sanded the top flat for 
the queen master on one, which is glued up, waiting for the glue to set. The sander is working today. However. Turned it on, zip. So, spun the motor by putting my hand on the belt strip, numerous times, and it finally cranked up. Later needed to sand a bit more, tried the same drill, zip. Left it on, and after about a minute kicked on by itself. Strange. 

The rook and bishop masters were both sanded lower, and not so sharp. 
Routed new pieces. Better by quite a bit, however, both still had small pieces chipped out. That was the point I needed the sander for the second time. Once it 
finally took pity on me and started, took both tops down even further, and 
rounded them. Didn't have more blanks roughed out, but as it was getting late, 
just marked out two, and will deal with them next time. It's just these two 
pieces this has been happening, chipping. I can accept it once in awhile, but 
this seems to be consistent with both these pieces. If this doesn't fix the 
problem, I'll be making new masters. 

Because it was late, and didn't want more noise coming out of the shop, marked out the bottom of my sabre saw table. A line full length down the middle, then decided where I wanted the hole for the saw blade - 6". Then maybe 8". Or 10". Then finally wound up marking the whole line at 2" intervals - not a clue why really, just to be doing something, and it will probably, maybe, be of some use later. It'll eventually turn out workable, but I have no idea how it'll get there. Zen woodworking.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Hoo ha. Looks like i'm done making chess masters. Hopefully. Tried the rook and bishop today, bishop worked, rook not so great. Decided to try both of them one more time, with blanks about the size I will be using when I start making them for real - about 1 1/8" wide. Worked, for both. So on to the next step.

The next step is doubling the pieces. That is a double thickness of 1/2" plywood. The way I plan on doing that is, to glue a routed piece on a strip of 1 1/8" plywood, the length providing a handle, and carefully, very carefully, rout the edges of the piece. Carefully, not only because I don't want to screw the piece up, but mostly because I don't want to screw my fingers up - I may wind up holding the piece with a pair of vice-grips, that has worked out very well for holding small pieces for me before. Not sure about just how I will do the bottom of the pieces yet, probably just cut them with the scrollsaw or something, then very carefully rout it. Time will tell. I've thought about this procedure a lot, and I'm pretty sure it will work. However, if in the end it won't, I do have a holder/master/whatever, floating around in my mind, that will hold it firmly, and allow me to rout it - I hope I don't have to go that route tho, because it will be time-consuming to get a working version; plus, I could wind up having to make separate thingies for each separate type of piece. The picture shows a king glued onto a test strip. I'll see how that does, next time. 
:dance3:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

The chess pieces are done. Making masters at least. Today I routed the doubled king, to see how it would do. Very nicely indeed. The bottom really should have been cut loose, then carefully routed. Instead I routed it loose (don't try this at home kiddies), then went back and routed it. The routing loose, not something I think I want to do with many more. But the routing of the bottom went quite well indeed. Then I glued it onto a base. The base is 1 1/4" X 1 1/4". It would have been better if I had gone with 1 1/2" X 1 1/2", but for now I'll leave as is, actually has some pretty nice balance, so I think it will do. 

The first photo is kind of a 3/4 view. Second is from the side. Third is from the front, or back. I didn't bother to do any 'pretty work' on it, as this is just for proof of concept, which made me quite pleased, and will probably eventually get tossed. The whole process only took about a minute or so, very quickly, done easily. And now that you know how to make a chess set, I'll stop posting them, just start making pieces as time, and materials, allow. I'll eventually work in a chess board later, got some ideas on that, also a bit off the beaten track. However, feel free to ask questions, smoke if you've got 'em.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

There will be a hiatus in this thread now. I've got some shop things I need to work on, and doubt seriously I will be posting on any of it. Sabresaw table, extending router table, making some canes (you already know how to do that), making a few chess pieces here and there (you know how to do them too), working on getting pieces cut so they can be used for my chess pieces and piggy bank. Later I'll have some new projects, and post them as I do them. Just didn't want you to think this thread is dead, just in hibernation. :laugh:

The iggle on my world corporate headquarters.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Well, I got started on my saw table this afternoon, and it's so interesting (to me anyway :yes4 I thought I'd post the build. I mean if I can build one, anyone can. No plans, not really sure just what I'm doing, or how I'm going to do it, but it will come out in the end. Probably the build will be more inefficient than most of you would do, but I've found it's more fun that way sometimes. 

FIRST PHOTO. This is my tool post stand top, you can tell from the look of it, it's been around a good long while, and used hard. It's a stand, a couple of feet tall, hollow plywood column, scrap plywood mostly, and the top holds the base of whatever tool I mount on it. At the back is a I don't know what you'd call it, but the edge of the tool base slides in there, and I've found that most of my bases stay where they are just from that. I do have a hole drilled in the front of each base that a bolt, with wing nut, go thru to hold it in position. The only tool I've got that needs that so far is my vise. But I think I'll skip the bolt from now on and just use a C clamp or two, I can find those faster and easier than I can the bolt and wing nut. Besides that, it takes time to find where to drill the hole. 
SECOND PHOTO. This is the tool base, 12"x12" and two layers of 1/2" plywood, that will set on the tool stand top. I cut a chunk of 2X4 into 2 1/4" pieces, and glued four on the base. Oh, I forgot. I put my king in the middle of it because it sort of reminded me of one of Jim Arnold's castle chess boards. Sorry about that Jim. :haha:
THIRD PHOTO. This is the bottom of the top, also with four chunks of 2X4 glued on. I had originally thought six inches from the front would be fine for the blade hole. Then eight would be better. Then possibly ten. When I dug the tool stand out, and started seeing just where to put the hole, it wound up at seven inches from the end.  

I'll need a good eight inches height for the saw I'll put in it. I got the holes drilled thru the saw plate, eight of them, and will probably use hex head screws rather than bolts and nuts. The blade is not square with the saw, so that is a minor hassle, had to mark the plate position by eyeballing the blade, and just hoping for the best when it gets together - but it will still be useful, even if it is off, or not, that's the important part. If I really want accuracy, I'll make another, or maybe just mod this one. I'll be buying a new saw, to use freehand, after payday.

This will be pretty much the way I do about all my projects for the shop. And they all work nicely. I'll be figuring out the next step next time I'm in the shop. Don't ya just love woodworking?

I just remembered that I have a decent photo of the entire tool stand. It's in the fourth photo. It was put together pretty much like this saw table is going together, I knew what I wanted, but didn't know how I was going to do it. The little 'art' pieces on it are trial pieces, scrap, or whatever, some for decoration, and some are used as glue blocks. It was originally taller, too tall, so I cut a section out of it, and used scrap to glue it all back together. Very sturdy, and works just as I wanted it to.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Well, today was sort of a good day, and a bad day, and a worse day. Yesterday I got my slider miter saw sold, and got my wood lathe and stand sold a week or so ago. Boy, getting those two things out of the shop was almost like doubling the size of the shop - for those that don't know, it's 8'X12'. Wonderful.

Got some strips sawn and glued to the base of the sabre saw table, as supports for the top, and that's good. Was going to screw the saw base plate onto the bottom of the top of the saw table, and couldn't find any hex head screws. That's bad, especially when I know that I did have two small bags of them. But, in looking I found several tools I never knew I had bought, the original chuck key for my drill press, a new pair of handcuffs, two new sets of allen wrenches (as if I don't have enough already). Also found the small set of carving chisels - stuck in a plastic bucket, and when I lifted them out, the roll was upside down, so dumped half of them out. Found various and sundry other bits and pieces too, every thing except my hex head screws.

So, off to town, got some, and on the way home decided to stop at my FFL guy's place, to pickup up a nice older pump shotgun that I had gotten off an on-line auction. And couldn't get it. Seems the seller said the barrel is 18", which is the minimum legal length for a shotgun barrel, without special (read expensive) licensing. When the gun came in, they measured the barrel. Too short. They way you measure is down the barrel, to the bolt. Anything under 18", very illegal. They're waiting for word from the BATF on this, but since I doubt very seriously they are going to say I can take just the barrel out and getting an extension welded on, I'm not getting it. Sounds like the seller took someone else's word on the barrel length, and didn't double-check. Drat. That is a major bummer. 

But at least I have screws now. I always try to take my blessings where I can, and to be properly thankful for them. Just a shame there's not more to be thankful for today. :sad:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Theo, do you need handcuffs to keep visitors in your shed.?.......LOL


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Now James, I would never do anything like that. Actually, I had forgotten I had them, certainly not in the shop. Real police handcuffs. Saving for my next girlfriend. :sarcastic:

Well, today I am a pleased person in a canvas dwelling - translation - I am a happy camper. Got a call this morning, the BATF had stopped by my FFL guy's place, and measured the shotgun. I had very clearly asked if they had measured down the inside of the barrel, and was clearly told, "Yes". Well, the BATF did in fact measure down the inside of the barrel, the correct way, and yes, it is 18", and therefore legal. That is when it came out that they had been measuring on the outside of the barrel. Anyway, I just got back from town, where I picked up this nice old gun. Got some nice oak flooring that I think I'll laminate and make a buttstock for it. I'll be using my router for part of the work on it, so I guess that makes it appropriate to post on it. :laugh:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Back in the shop again today. Another good day, not so good day. Fit the top on the strips I glued on the bottom part, and lovely fit. Will work out nicely. But decided to get the saw fastened to the bottom of the top before I finished the glue-up. Drilled holes in the saw base, got it screwed in place. Had found a T-handle nut driver, that put those hex head screws in beautifully. Then time to put the screw in tht holds the saw to its base. Instantly turned into one of those "need three hands" issues. 

It just wasn't working, then lost the screw. Aarrgh. Grabbed my handy magnet on a sliding handle. Found nails, T-nuts, regular nuts, a drill bit, a couple of things I don't even remember getting, and no screw. Then, for some unknown reason, looked at the saw base, and just caught the barest glimpse of the screw. Somehow, it had slipped thru the drilled hole, then under the base, and caught. Firmly caught. Probably spent about five minutes getting it out. By that time I was pretty well mentally wiped out, so called it a day. I'm thinking now, probably a bit of wood glue, to hold the screw in place, while I move the saw into position, then fasten the screw in, the wood glue should hold it then come loose easily. So far, that seems like the best plan I can come up with. Time will tell. :sad: 

If that doesn't work, I guess the next thing to try is unscrew the base plate, screw the saw to it, then re-screw the base down. However, I am not at all sure there is enough space to put the screws back in, and use a wrench to put them back in place. I guess I'll double check that before I mess with the glue.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

OK, hit the shop earlier than usual, decided to try the saw to the table, one more time. Don't know what I did, or how, but I had that thing screwed down in less than two minutes. After all of yesterday, hard to believe.

Then applied glue to the blocks on the bottom of the table top, slid in the strips I had cut and glued to the bottom blocks, and clamped them in place. Plenty snug enough I wouldn't have needed to clamp them really, but I have clamps and I'm not afraid to use them. 

All in all, this will be a valuable addition to the shop. Not pretty, but works like it's supposed to, so I'm satisfied.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Glad to see that you are getting 'shop time', Theo.

I may have to try harder.....


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> Glad to see that you are getting 'shop time', Theo.
> 
> I may have to try harder.....


Hi James. Yep, trying to make up for the days, even weeks, I didn't get into the shop at all. Didn't get in today because kind of got logged down with other things. Very good therapy too. I don't get depressed, but do get a bit bummed at times (I have sons), and just going out there and having a hot drink is very relaxing.

Get yourself a cuppa coffee or tea, go out for a few minutes on the days you can't justify spending time out there, have a sit down, smell the nice wood smell, relax for a few minute. Amazing just how refreshing even that little bit can be. I have a radio out there, low volume, set to a classical music station, that doesn't hurt either.

My next step out there is moving some things, so I can get the bench I'm going to use to extend my router table in place, and then probably plane down the edges of it. Power plane of course, love noisy tools that make lots of shavings and sawdust. 
:wub:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I have not started on one of these yet, but it looks like something I definitely want to sometime in the future, been wanting to make one, but didn't like the plans for the ones I had found, and hadn't got around to making my own version. Just ran across this, and thought I'd pass it along, I think this is the plan I'll be using for my own, or very close. Belt Sander Stand


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Some shop time today, after a hiatus of several days, while I tried to get some other things taken care of. And, still didn't get them all taken care of . Bah. Humbug.

Took off the clamps for the last glueup on my sabre saw table, and tried it out. Worked great, except found out that for real little pieces, better with the scroll saw, becaus this one wanted to jerk the piece out of my fingers - no problem with larger pieces tho. I think this is going to work out just fine. Then drilled three 1/2" holes in the end, so I could hang it from a rafter, out of the way. That works nicely also.

As it turn out, my table saw is out of tune again, the blade needs to be aligned with the mitre slot. However. Always a however. The alignment is tightened by screws, and either the screw pockets have work, or stripped, because it gets out of alignment quickly, and apparently easily. Buying another saw is not in the immediate future. Sooo, going to give a home brew solution a shot. I've been thinking on this some, it's a direct drive, a HF model, still in excellent condition, except for the alignment glitch. I've got a large hose clamp, and a bolt with a hook on the end. I figure I can drill a hole in the front of the cabinet, loop the hose clamp around the motor (I said it was large), hook the bolt into that, put the bolt thru the hole along with a washer, then gently tighten a nut, pulling the motor/blade into allignment, checking carefully and frequently, as I go along. When it's good, then I put a drop of Loctite on the threads, and put on another nut, to lock it in place. Should be good to go after that. Hopefully. And if Plan A doesn't work, then I'll just go to Plan B, which is probably make a simple fence I can align with the blade and clamp into place. Now that I think about it, might just go ahead and make another fence anyway, the one on it isn't very great anyway. But my preference is get the blade aligned, so I can make some more saw sleds, all my old ones got tossed. 
:cray:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Got out in the shop today and decided the best way to get that hose clamp around the motor, and the bolt out the back of the saw, was to take the top off. Hah! Not a clue. Instructions say zip. So looks like if I want to do it, I'll have to unbolt the saw from the stand, then turn it upside down, and go in from the bottom. Well, that's more than my back wants to do just now, so moving on to Plan B. Which is, make a wooden fence, that I can clamp down, and align it with the saw blade. Got a good start on it today.

Marked out a 4' piece of plywood, just a hair over 9" wide, cut it in half. Then cut it down the middle, giving me two pieces 4 1/2" or so wide, which I glued together. Then cut the other piece in half longwise, and one will be either the fence face, or the fence base, and the laminated part the face, haven't decided yet. The last piece I marked and cut a brace and glued it to a rough cut, and will be making braces to hold the face and base together. Should have everything cut and glued in two/three days. Then test time.

The really good part is, I used my sabre saw table to do the cuts. Wow, the best cuts I have 'ever' made with a sabre saw. Even with a bit of wobble of my tool stand (had something under it), and the table shifting a bit, until I clamped it down. The clamping was just what it really needed (I hadn't expected the table to shift, but the vibration from the saw moved it around pretty easily), the cut went from a little wavy to right down the line. Wow, wish I'd made one of these long ago. Actually being able to clearly see where the blade is cutting is really an amazing help. It is going to make my rough cuts a whole lot easier, and a whole lot more accurate. The only down side is, now I've got to buy another saw for when I need to make a free-hand cut. I can highly recommend you make one, if you haven't already. I am definitely a pleased person in a canvas dwelling today.
:big_boss:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Well, been spending shop time, but nothing worth photos. Had a physical awhile back and one of the nurses liked my cane, and asked if I would make her one. She wanted a Scorpio, zodiac crab. I thought that would be a bit difficult, so she asked for a Phoenix cane. Easy peasy sayeth I, little did I know. The Scorpio would have been a snap, it's virtually unchanged since Greek and Roman times, and probably the copyright has run out, so wouldn't have to worry about copying someone else's work. So, started looking at Phoenix images. Turns out there must be thousands of different designs, half of which are ugly as sin, half you can't even really tell what they are, a quarter look like a duck, a quarter like an eagle, and some even look like people. I probably copied down a hundred pictures, for inspiration. Then went thru, discarding right and left, until I got to a dozen or so. Finally one. I wasn't about to copy it, so started making changes, with a bit of inspiration from one, then another designs. Finally came up with something I liked. Then it was fine tuning time. Got that pretty much like I wanted it, then it was time for the flames. Found a picture of a 1930 Green coin with a Phoenix on it, took inspiration from the flames, and got it pretty much on the first go. Took a picture of it, and the flames were too low. So, cut and pasted the flames about 1/4" higher. Yes. Then more fine tuning. The pictures looked fine, but the prints kept coming out with a gray background, which I figured would hurt me when I transferred the pattern, so painted the back ground white, still working on that, and then will go over all the lines with a black marker.

My printer won't let me fine tune size, as my old one would, but by a very fortunate coincidence, if I print wallet size, any picture comes out the same dimension, which in this case is what I wanted in the first place. Once I get it all as I want it, I will print out a copy, and transfer it to a sheet of rubber plumbers gasket - and then make rubber stamp of it. :happy: I'm fine with free handing any of my other designs, but on this I want both sides very exact, so will use a stamp. But rather than just paint or ink, I am thinking I will go with chemical wood burning. Just learned about that a week or so ago, should be interesting.

Pictures of the original inspiration, and the design as it stands today. 

I'll be starting back making my Wizard figure banks also. Before, I printed out paper patterns, then glued them to a piece routed out using my master. Turns out that the latex paint sometimes flaked, and I routed the piece after the pattern was glued down, so that left nail holes to deal with. So, to combat that will make a rubber stamp of that also, but using paint or ink. I was worried that I'd have to make a new master, which could be a bit of a pain, but printed out a copy of the master, then laid the master on top of that and traced around it. Amazing, almost a perfect match. Sure surprised me, and delighted me. Did think I would have to trim a bit in a couple of places on the master, then realized I could just use it as is, by adjusting the stamp to it. Wizard master. 

In between I decided to make complete chess set, and see how that turned out. Got a king, queen, two bishops, two knights, two rooks, and two pawns routed out the other day. Turned out well, but got a chip here and there, this plywood turned out to be a bit lower quality than what I have been getting, but been paying the same. :angry: Glued them on strips, then routed those, for a double thickness. That worked well also - but I would not recommend that for someone else. Picture of those. Was going to rout out some bases from 1/2" plywood, then decided to go with some old patterns I'd made years ago to make a double rocker (looked great in the magazine, and turned out to be pure ugly), I'd been going to toss them, some lousy South American stuff I believe, and slightly less than 1/2". A test piece worked well enough, so will use that for the bases. This is just a prototype set anyway, had to fill in gaps and chips on half the pieces with wood putty, so will definitely upgrade my plywood later. Picture of bases. Glued the good pieces on the bases, and doesn't look bad.

Gah, hit the submit button, so now have to add the photos.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I had a "Theo" day the other day.....LOL.

I went to joint some timber and saw a nut sitting on the floor just about to disappear under the shaving.

Spent the next few hours removing and re-inserting all the bolts holding the frame together so that the nuts were on the outside and not hidden inside.

A few of the nuts were only finger tight.

Off to the store to get some Loctight...


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> I had a "Theo" day the other day.....LOL.
> 
> I went to joint some timber and saw a nut sitting on the floor just about to disappear under the shaving.
> 
> ...


A 'Theo' day indeed, and that is why I have a magnet on a adjustable handle. Seems I forgot to mention, when I used my new sabre saw table, it started going off line about half way thru the job. As it turned out, the vibration loosened the screw holding the saw to the base, a lot. Loctite time. :sarcastic: But I did buy a new sabre saw, and with that one I can easily see the blade and where it's cutting.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

OK, new things to work on. My saw has about bit the dust. Normally I keep the blade down below the table, so I don't cut my hand or something. Now it cranks up, and stops before it gets even 1/2" above the table. Had to clamp on vice grips and pull while turning the crank before I could get it up enough to cut 1/2" plywood. Looks like it's time to turn it into a disc sander. Fortunately, I bought another, used, some time back, so it looks like I will at least have a working saw. As soon as I get the time to take the old one off the stand, and put the other one one.

And, my folding chair has about bit the dust. I pulled it forward a bit so I could do a bit of routing, and when I sat down, the seat went down too. Two braces in the back legs had given way. I did get it lined up so the seat would stay put, but looks like its folding days may be over. The really bad part is, when I move it, the legs tend to move, and the seat will tilt again. If duct tape won't hold it so I can at least count on the seat staying up, I'm SOL, because my other folding chairs have long since disappeared, and I don't have money to spare for another until the first of the month. Looks like if the duct tape won't do it, I'll be working on something like this for the next few days. Fun Stuff - 1st Bayview Hills Not exactly what I would like, but I need something quick, and don't have time to figure something else out - also don't have the money to buy materials to make something else, and do have plywood to make one of these. And, yes, I could sit on a bucket or something, but my back wouldn't take that for very long at all, and I'd need to lean back and rest it, with something to support it. Hmm, maybe I just could tape a piece of plywood onto a bucket, to support my back. Quick, ugly, and workable, who could ask for anything more?
:sarcastic:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Yes, Theo, duct tape can fix anything. Just make sure it is the blue duct tape.....LOL.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Been in and out of the shop, doing little things in the main, not anything to really report on, that and life. Got a heart ultrasound the other day - I not only am still alive, but in quite good condition. :yes4: 

Got the folding chair duck taped up, didn't have any duct tape, but did have some duck tape. Works for now, but I don't make any sudden moves while one it. So making a new chair is definitely in the top listings of my project list. 

Got started today, with two of the legs. Had planned on cutting a 9"X48" piece of plywood, to make three legs. But got to measuring, decided I wanted 18" legs versus 16" legs, and will put casters on them. This will be a three legged chair by the way, with a backrest. The seat will be cut from 10 1/2" wide plywood, and the legs under held and supported by 2X4 chunks; 100% glue fastening, with the exception of the casters. The first two legs are glued, and drying. Will
cut the third leg when I get back in the shop. I cut the legs with my nice new sabresaw, and when the glue is dry will rout around the edges, flip them, rout again; this will make them look 'finished' if not fantastic. May decide to cut the tops of the legs at a slight angle, to get a bit more distance between the feet - but won't know what I'll actually do next, or how, until I do it. Zen woodworking. 

Plan on getting back to making Wizard banks too, so made a 'rough cut' Wizard pattern I can just draw around, then follow the line and cut it out, and it's ready to rout to final. Picture.

Finished routing a two layer Wizard blank also, this will be the back to the Wizard rubber stamp I will be carving - once I figure out what I'm doing that is. It suddenly struck me last night, should I glue the rubber to the back, cut off the excess, then transfer the Wizard? Or should I transfer the Wizard, then glue the rubber down? Both choices seem to have good points, and bad points. I've got some carving tools, and a friend sent some I didn't have, so once I get the gluing issue straight I'll be ready to give stamp making a shot. By the way, does anyone know if Titebond II will work to glue plumber rubber gasket material to wood?


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Have kicked all other priorities aside for just now, and doing chair. The duck tape is still holding the folding chair in place, sort of, it shifts now and then, and makes strange noises. I've got the basic chair done now, three legs, seat, ready for casters. I could only find one caster, so went in today to buy a couple more. Problems. None of the casters were rated at more than 75 lbs, and those were the most expensive. The others were rated at 50 lbs, and came in a four pack. Finally bought two of the four packs, and will use six of them, giving a total rating of 300 lbs, which I do not weigh, so should be no problem with that part. Now I need to figure out how to attach two casters to each leg, instead of one. Once the casters are on, I'll need to figure out how to put a back on, but at least I can use the chair while I think that part out. Not a bit of it on paper, all in my head. Zen woodworking. :thank_you2:

Got a couple of pieces of Speedy Carve today, for making my Wizard stamp. The plumber's rubber gasket material is just too hard to transfer more than a very dim pattern, so will use that for a stamp I can easily freehand onto it - takes a felt tip pen very nicely. The Speedy Carve is thicker, and supposedly will take even inkjet transfers easily - but no instructions included. So I checked on-line, and apparently all you have to do is quickly position a fresh print, ink side down, then burnish. I can do that. As long as I can see the lines I'll be happy, because if need be I'll go over them with a felt tip pen, then start carving. I'll also have enough to give my Phoenix design a try.

Also got some Baltic Birch plywood pieces ordered. Five pieces, 12" X 30", from Rockler, $32 and change, with shipping. Unfortunately not long enough for a cane, but didn't get it for that, got it to try my chess pieces with; I have high hopes for it, but if it doesn't work out for some reason, can always find a use for it. I would have had to drive around 15-20 miles to pick up some, and with gas, cost for cutting, and cost of the plywood, I would have paid more for as much. I should get it in a few days, delivered to my PO Box.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Hah, life is basically good. Got the basic chair done now, and is it ever sturdy. In fact, it's a LOT sturdier than I'd figured it would be. Today I used it as a small work bench and whacked my casters in the pieces that will go on the bottom of the legs. So sturdy, that I'm going to make a taller version to use as a small, portable, work bench. I've got pictures too, rather lousy, but better than no pictures. Oh yeah, I sat on it while I scrollsawed a couple of cuts on each side of the back piece I will use for my Wizard stamp - and the chair was great, solid as a rock, and I could get closer, easier, to the scrollsaw, than with the folding chair. 

The first is the basic chair, the back will come later. 
The second is how the legs were fastened, 2X2 glue blocks on each side - no metal in this - yet.
The third shows that I cut the tops of the legs at a slight angle, to get them further out. Also cut the bottoms at a slight angle, to have them flat.
And the fourth is the block holding the casters on the ends of the legs - these will be glued, plus small 2X2 glue blocks glued under each end, and to the sides of the legs. The casters will be the only metal pieces in this chair. I just hope I have enough glue on hand to glue all these tonight - my usual place closed at 1PM yesterday, and I got there around 1:30. Bah. 

I really wish I'd have came up with this idea long ago, especially the three legs. It's a bit rude and crude, everything was cut with my sabresaw, but it's a shop chair, proof of concept and all, and is great. plus 'pretty' would have taken longer. None of it on paper, all from my head, and I don't really know how I'm going to do each step until I get to doing it. So far, it's been going great - Zen woodworking at it's finest.
:thank_you2:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Good to see that you are getting some shop time, Theo.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Shop time, yes. Now if I could just get more production. :laugh:

Got glue today, so will be gluing the caster blocks on this evening. Yay, next step a back, so I can lean back and rest my weary spine when it needs a rest.

Got a piece of oak flooring in the house. I've said before that I've used Titebond II glue as a finish at various times. Well, trying it on that piece of oak. I put two unthickened coats on, spread with my finger. Looks good on that oak, but not really a great look, a bit lumpy and bumpy - what I should have done was thin it 50/50 with water and use a brush, then it would look good. Even so, I do like the look on that oak, basically clear, with almost an amberish look, which I am sure would increase a bit with about 3 or more coats of thinned Titebond II. I also picked up some white Elmer's glue, which I'm going to try too, it dries clear. I've used various finishes, poly regular and water base, which look good, but is a bit pricey compared to the thinned Titebond II, and actually doesn't satisfy me any more than the glue finish. So, for now at least, It's back to a glue finish for those projects getting a finish. 

Ah yes, almost forgot. Picked up a 5 gallon plastic bucket for about $2, which I'll be using to keep my spring clamps in - they seem to have a tendency to wander around the shop a lot, this should keep them, mostly, in one place. And seven more Lowes yardsticks, so I can make some more Lowes yardstick canes.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

hahaha...

I don't have enough spring clamps to need to keep them in a bucket.

I just let them wander around the shed until I next need one........


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I actually need more spring clamps. When I use them I normally don't use just one or two, but maybe a dozen or more, especially when I'm making canes, I think it was about 18 on the last cane. As is, I can only glue up about one cane at a time, need more clamps, so I can glue up several at a time. I just ordered a new random orbit sander (should be here in a few days), along with a half dozen or so spring clamps, and now wish I'd ordered a couple dozen clamps. Hopefully I will be able to pretty much fill that bucket with spring clamps before the year is done, depending on my cash flow.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Watch for sales Theo. I see them go on sale from time to time for really cheap. You can't have too many clamps.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Watch for sales Theo. I see them go on sale from time to time for really cheap. You can't have too many clamps.


Oh, I do, I do. Those I bought were $.59 each I believe. May have to either get a few more, or start making luthier clamps - you can make those for almost nothing, and nothing if you use scrap wood. But they take time I need to spend on other things.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Chair coming along nicely, still figuriing out the back tho; looks like it will be tall enough to not only lean back to rest my back, but to hang my hat on top.  Not thrilled with the casters, thinking I may have to cut them off, put a new base on each leg, and put heavier duty casters on. No biggie, just a bit more time.

I've got a half dozen of my 'prototype' canes up on craigslist, been on there awhile. Got a lot of spam, people asking if I will reduce the price and if they're still available. I clearly state in the ad, the price is $10 each, period, and if the ad is up, the canes are available. Idiots. Pricing these low because I'm still figuring out measurements, procedures, and all, and these are not quite up to my satisfaction level, so letting them go for $10, not enough to cover labor, but enough to get a bit more material. Well, finally sold a couple. Took about three days to get details of meeting ironed out, but finally did. Woman said she would take two. OK, she comes rolling up in a late model red Volvo SUV, picks the two canes she liked, then had to count her money to be sure she had enough. Sheesh. She had to pay $10 of it in ones, and I think it left her with $2 in her hands. Then today got a message about my ad, guy told me of a place not terribly far away from me that sells craft stuff. That and a good doctor visit today makes this a pretty fair week. Life is basically good.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Been in and out of the shop. My doctor retired, and I'd already asked for some referals for doctors closer to me than before, so they all needed to see me, and some repeat visits. Colonoscopy earlier this week too, all good. Been working on my chair, on and off, and finally finished - with the exception of cutting the back shorter. Nice and sturdy, the casters could work a bit better, but they were all available at the time. 

Also been working on making a stamp, to print the pattern for my wood figure banks, the Wizard specifically. Finally decided some stuff called Speedy Carve would work out best, so they screwed up and sent me Speedy Cut instead, which I did not find out until after I had hacked it all up, so no returning it. The Speedy Cut did carve very easily and nicely, but also crumbled pretty easily, quite easily. The good news, it makes a better pencil eraser than the pricey eraser I had been using - the expensive one picks up dirt very easily, the Speedy Cut stays clean.

But, after a lot more research, figure vinyl floor tiles may do the job. Actually linoleum blocks would probably carve considerably easier, but the vinyl tiles should allow much more detail, and hold up a lot longer. Ready to proceed on that - however, ran out of printer ink, so can't proceed until I get more ink. Don't know if it will accept the inkjet transfer like the Speedy Cut did, or if I will have to make a copy with a toner copier and try that and acetone - don't have any wintergreen, but do have acetone. The tile takes felt pen ink very nicely, so if I can get just a faint pattern, that will be just fine. Oh yeah, I got three tiles, 12"X12", for 79 cents each. MUCH less expensive than linoleum blocks. I think hitting one with a hair blower on high should aid in cutting. Life is fun.

Oh yeah, kind of lousy photos, but didn't have time to get better.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

My doctor is on "leave" until after Christmas.

The relief doctor said he had been working too hard. I suspect stress leave. 

I hope that I don't have to find another doctor.....


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> My doctor is on "leave" until after Christmas.
> 
> The relief doctor said he had been working too hard. I suspect stress leave.
> 
> I hope that I don't have to find another doctor.....


Hi James. Well, I'm not sure if I'll find another doctor, or just stick with what I have now. When my doctor retired all records were turned over to Fast Med, who then became my primary doctor by default. I've never heard bad things about them, and they do stay open until about 7PM or so. Need to check in with them, and see if I want to stay with them, or find another doctor.

My previous doctors were mostly about 25+ miles from me, 40+ kilometers, one way, and even on slow days, a goodly amount of traffic to fight. One I quite liked, the others were sort of , eh. But with the referred doctors, the furthest two are about 10 miles one way, one is my eye doctor so I'll see him fairly regularly. The other is my colonoscopy doctor, so won't be visiting him really often. The others are in town (about 1 1/2 mile from me), or just out of town. Two of them are at the medical center at the hospital they recently put up, and maybe 15 minutes or so from my house. And my dentist has been here all along.

I got very fortunate, not only are my new doctors very close, and handy, but they are all very good to get along with, willing to explain what's going on, and all in all seem better qualified than my old doctors. Can't ask for much more than that. 

Good luck to you if you have to get a different doctor. I know the feeling, I was with my old one for almost 30 years. A bit of a shock.


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