# Suggestions for building torsion box underneath Incra RT



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Guys I am going to replace my table saws extention with my Incra router table . (I am also building a separate Incra RT at a later date ) 

For strength I want to reinforce the incra table with a torsion box . I watched a video and he has nailed individual pieces inside . Wouldn't it be better to dado all the cross pieces so they interlocked . Kibosh the air nails and use lots of weld bond glue ? 
I wasn't going to add a bottom to the torsion box as I was going to glue the pieces to the incra tables bottom so you can see the grid pattern underneath .
I guess I could add a bottom for strength if it's necessary , as there will be a large hole for the router lift to stick threw . 
I will need access underneath the sides for bolt holes where the box will be attached to the table saws fence . Although I could route openings for that too .

Here's a video I watched , but it's not the way I really want to go about it 

Build a Torsion Box Assembly Table - Fine Woodworking Video


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Guys I am going to replace my table saws extention with my Incra router table . (I am also building a separate Incra RT at a later date )
> 
> For strength I want to reinforce the incra table with a torsion box . I watched a video and he has nailed individual pieces inside . Wouldn't it be better to dado all the cross pieces so they interlocked . Kibosh the air nails and use lots of weld bond glue ?
> I wasn't going to add a bottom to the torsion box as I was going to glue the pieces to the incra tables bottom so you can see the grid pattern underneath .
> ...


for a torsion box to work correctly it needs the bottom...
wood glue is all you need and an occasional short 23GA pin to keep things from moving during assembly......
I make mine using half lap joinery even for attaching the grid to the external frame...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Yes that's what I'm talking about Stick . I don't know if a guy would need some kind of jigs built to get perfect alignment on the half laps as you go across with more of them . Hopefully set the fence accurately in different increments or do a bunch clamped together . 

I can see adding a bottom easy enough . Just take a hole saw and access holes to reach the bolts going threw the fence into the torsion box .


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok you'd think I would know this by now as its kind of how box joints work . But I like how he put an indexing pin in the mitres fence .


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Yes that's what I'm talking about Stick . I don't know if a guy would need some kind of jigs built to get perfect alignment on the half laps as you go across with more of them . Hopefully set the fence accurately in different increments or do a bunch clamped together .
> 
> I can see adding a bottom easy enough . Just take a hole saw and access holes to reach the bolts going threw the fence into the torsion box .


what bolts going through the torsion box...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> what bolts going through the torsion box...


The ones that secure it to the table saws fence . Wish I knew how to do sketch up


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Rick I made my last table to be a throwaway as I was living in Alberta temporarily and needed a table. I used strips of 3/4 ply and some 3/4 inch left over spruce fence boards (about 4" wide) and I used them as cross members and rails and I joined them using biscuits and they were very strong.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Rick I made my last table to be a throwaway as I was living in Alberta temporarily and needed a table. I used strips of 3/4 ply and some 3/4 inch left over spruce fence boards (about 4" wide) and I used them as cross members and rails and I joined them using biscuits and they were very strong.


Thanks for the idea Charles . I was going to use 1/2 mdf , will that be ok or is plywood better ? I prefer working with mdf for some reason . Must be the nagging cough I get afterwards lol . Just kidding , I use a mask


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

When you make those cuts, make sure you cut them a little deep. That way when you assemble the grid, the pieces will have enough room to ensure the pieces fit together flat. Right?


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Is this what you want to build?
I drew it with 3/4 inch thick pieces.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> I was going to use 1/2 mdf ,)


...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok Stick , 3/4 it is lol 

Mike thanks . Yes that's sort of what I'm looking at ,and going a tad deeper in the cuts is very good advise . I like the idea of going every six inches .
I will have to leave a few pieces out in order to make room for the router plate and lift , DC . I read it's important to have a top and bottom on a torsion box as there's far more strength that way

The incra top is 27 by 43 I believe . I have 29" between the fence so I'll have some spacers or whatever. Wish I could weld as I'd build some metal brackets to suspend it . But I'm sure there's a good wood alternative


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Btw Stick , is that picture you posted a younger you?


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Ok Stick , 3/4 it is lol
> 
> Mike thanks . Yes that's sort of what I'm looking at ,and going a tad deeper in the cuts is very good advise . I like the idea of going every six inches .
> I will have to leave a few pieces out in order to make room for the router plate and lift , DC . I read it's important to have a top and bottom on a torsion box as there's far more strength that way
> ...


Got any pictures or a link to your specific Incra table?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Rick,

There are shortcuts that will make it more than strong enough while insuring a flat work surface. The real key is to make sure that all of the vertical elements are PERFECTLY cut the same width\height. Trying to do that with interlocking pieces can be done but adds way more complication than need be IMO. Glue will be all you need to make it a very strong structure.

Here are some photos of my take on a easy way to add torsional strength without turning the project into a test of will.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Got any pictures or a link to your specific Incra table?


Sorry Mike I should of posted a pic . As you can see the incra table top is fairly close to the size of my table saws extension . It's approx two inches less from the front fence guide to the rear angle iron . So the plan is to remove the factory extention and install the incra top in its place . 
The bolts are going to be a tight fit as the tops really thick , but I can rethink this and build some other way to secure the torsion box to the table saws rails 

These pics are the Incra top sitting on top of the factory extention for a test fit . As you can see its wider than the factory extention , but I don't see that as a problem . Was going to try and build a plate that is easily removable to install and remove quickly the LS positioner quickly . Similar to what Timbertailor did


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I found a model of the Incra table and imported it into the drawing. For some reason, the person that drew the table made it a little longer than 43 inches. But you can still get the picture, right?

Hope this helps.
Mike


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Underside view.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Holy smokes Mike you have this sketch up down to an art 
That's really an amazing program in the right hands . Thanks for going to the trouble , wow


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I may go and buy some 3/4" mdf tomorrow and start this project . That's if this hangover goes away :fie:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> BTW Stick , is that picture you posted a younger you?


yup. and 35 or so of the other old geezers here..


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> yup. and 35 or so of the other old geezers here..


Hey I resemble that remark! :surprise:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> yup. and 35 or so of the other old geezers here..


:lol:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> Hey I resemble that remark! :surprise:


peas in a pod syndrome???


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

RainMan1 said:


> Thanks for the idea Charles . I was going to use 1/2 mdf , will that be ok or is plywood better ? I prefer working with mdf for some reason . Must be the nagging cough I get afterwards lol . Just kidding , I use a mask


My personal opinion Rick is that Mdf flexes too much to be used in a structural application like that. You can take a 6" wide strip 4' long and deflect it fairly easily. OSB would work ok too if you use at least 5/8" thick.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

screw it...
that is twice I lost everything I typed...
I'm done...
this lost of over an hour of typing simply pisses me off...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Stick I was having the same Robles a while back and it wit by itself finally. Anyway, I got in the habit of copying everything I wrote before I tried to post so that I could go back and just paste if it failed. PITA but less frustrating than losing it.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> screw it...
> that is twice I lost everything I typed...
> I'm done...
> this lost of over an hour of typing simply pisses me off...


Ok so I'm not the only one . I posted and then seen it wasn't completed after I hit submit?
Doesn't happen enough to be a major concern though


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> My personal opinion Rick is that Mdf flexes too much to be used in a structural application like that. You can take a 6" wide strip 4' long and deflect it fairly easily. OSB would work ok too if you use at least 5/8" thick.


OSB seems ok but how about plywood then ? Not a big fan of OSB. I guess it's a cheap alternative but I will spend more for piece of mind .
I guess seeing as plywood is different directions of grain laminated together that it would be less prone to flex than mdf ? I just thought once the mdf was glued top and bottom that it would take a lot to bend it though


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

the purpose of a torsion is to obtain strength, lightness, rigidity and flatness....
something you are never going to get W/ MDF....

¼ BB ply for the base...
½ phenolic laminated BB for the top..
½x1½ S4S parting for the grid...
T nuts or epoxied in inserts for the Incra fence...
just be sure you box where you router is going to be...


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## Garyk (Dec 29, 2011)

Sometimes glue & mdf don't work well because the glue "sits" on the surface of the mdf and you get a weak glue on glue joint. If it doesn't soak into the surface it gives you a false sense of strength. Might consider a few well place screws, with the heads below the surface. 

nice drawing Mike......


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> the purpose of a torsion is to obtain strength, lightness, rigidity and flatness....
> something you are never going to get W/ MDF....
> 
> ¼ BB ply for the base...
> ...


Stick , the top is pretty much going to be the Incra top . 
I figured out what BB is (Baltic birch I suspect ) but what is "S4S" for the grid ?
Ok is that "side for side" ?


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

S4S = surfaced 4 sides.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

S4S = Surfaced 4 sides.

I think you guys are over engineering this thing.
Look at the way Ron Paulk builds his tables on you tube. That is the way I built my miter saw station. But then again, I don't measure stuff with a micrometer.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

boogalee said:


> S4S = surfaced 4 sides.


Ok I still have no clue what that means lol. Google I guess

Ok got it 

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/articles/s2s-and-s4s-what-gives/


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## old coasty (Aug 15, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> yup. and 35 or so of the other old geezers here..


Count me in


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

FWIW...
you'd be amazed at how strong of a torsion box you can get using just ¼'' lattice and Luann ...
think hollow core door...

S4S Parting.... Surfaced 4 Sides
go to the molding department at your big box and you'll find vertical grained boards smooth on 4 sides in 3/8 and 1/2'' thicknesses and a in a variety of widths...
using S4S gives you strength, better glue bonding, ease of tooling and a whole lot less weight...

the purpose of a torsion is lightness, flatness, strength and durability...

MDF fails on all accounts accept for flatness...

use ¼ for both surfaces,,,
install space blocks where your bolts need to be...


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

RainMan1 said:


> Here's a video I watched , but it's not the way I really want to go about it
> 
> Build a Torsion Box Assembly Table - Fine Woodworking Video


How come?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cochese said:


> How come?


I'm really not liking how he cut a ton of separate pieces and airnailed them into place . I like the idea of using a dadoo to interlock long pieces into one another instead .



I just seen a problem .Because the Incra top is 1.5 inches thick , the bolts will not go threw the fence rails into a torsion box but more or less come into contact with the side of the Incra table top . So luckily there's almost a spare inch on each side . This way maybe I can buy some angle iron and attach it to the fence rails and hopefully secure the Incra top and torsion box to the angle iron .
Will have to take a picture to demonstrate the issue . I'm sure there's a simple solution though. Would be nice to make micro adjustments to change the extensions height to


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

RainMan1 said:


> I'm really not liking how he cut a ton of separate pieces and airnailed them into place . I like the idea of using a dadoo to interlock long pieces into one another instead .


I think it's a preference thing. I don't think the glue and nail method would be a failure source. I've built them both ways, and not a whole lot of difference to me. I actually had a good deal of sag with the interlocked one, but that was about 600 pounds or more of mass, and needed another two casters.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cochese said:


> I think it's a preference thing. I don't think the glue and nail method would be a failure source. I've built them both ways, and not a whole lot of difference to me. I actually had a good deal of sag with the interlocked one, but that was about 600 pounds or more of mass, and needed another two casters.


I think it's a personal thing , as I'd prefer to make this as difficult as possible lol . For some reason the idea of all those little pieces doesn't get me to hot and bothered about the whole project . But in your defence I'm sure either way works .
I kinda had my heart set on mdf though


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Rick...

what if you were to keep the front rail of your saw "as is" and then bump out the rear saw rail to accommodate the additional width of the table (bend or cut and weld). Use some heavy angle under the table top between the two rails for support?.....


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Rick, what kind of saw do you have? I thought 27 inches was the standard for most saws. 

The poor old Craftsman I used to have was only 20 inches deep. UGH.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Rick...
> 
> what if you were to keep the front rail of your saw "as is" and then bump out the rear saw rail to accommodate the additional width of the table (bend or cut and weld). Use some heavy angle under the table top between the two rails for support?.....


Bill I should take a pic to help . It's all good as the Incra top is actually smaller in width . Sorry if I conveyed it wrong . I've got almost an inch each way , so that should provide me with a way to attach additional angle iron sections to the inside of the factory table saws rails with out modifying the table saws itself . 
Wish aluminum was more available around here . 
I was going to remove the saws factory extention and then prop the Incra table in its place to help me think threw an idea . I think if this added ange iron is deep enough , I may be able to attach bolts threw there bottom horizontal section which could allow me to make critical height adjustments .
I'll go out and start taking this apart as soon as I can and provide a pic


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

I'm following ya now....

ok, how bout some 1" square stock? alternating mounting holes. Kinda like the tablesaw fence that you posted a few days ago...odd holes to the table top, even holes to the rails?...

just spit ballin' here for ya...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Rick, what kind of saw do you have? I thought 27 inches was the standard for most saws.
> 
> The poor old Craftsman I used to have was only 20 inches deep. UGH.


I have to recheck but I thought it was just shy of 29" . The RT is 27" . In the picture where it's just test fit you can see there's a gap on each side of about an inch . This is good news IMO as otherwise there would not have been an easy way to attach it .
I think are local company that sells steel has all but left town


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok guys after looking at this a little more this morning , I think it's going to look like a dogs breakfast , as the width difference is just not going to look right IMO .
The table saws inside width between the fence rails is 29.25 and the width of the Incra top is actually less than 27"s . So I'm thinking instead of taking the easy way out I am going to use the top for a seperate router table similar to TimberTailors (although I can't build anything that complex drawer wise ) ,
and build a new router top to replace the factory table saws extention . This way the new top can have a torsion box built underneith it and I can use the side of the torsion box to attach directly to the table saws fend rails as a thinner 3/4" top will allow for bolts to go threw below it. 
I think I'm going to kibosh using an Incra fence to , not sure .

It's to bad no one likes mdf for a build as its so darn flat to begin with . I'd like to use 3/4" mdf for the router table top and put white Formica on the top surface , then use mdf for the torsion box build and then coat all the bottom area with fibreglass resin so that moisture cannot be an issue in the future ? 
I have to find some miter guides and fence guides now .

Or maybe use two layers of mdf . This way you could use the bottom as a platform and install seperate pieces of mdf on its top around the perimeter of the rails instead of dadoing them in ? Cut the area out on the bottom where I need access for the bolts sticking threw from the fence rails


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Ok guys after looking at this a little more this morning , I think it's going to look like a dogs breakfast , as the width difference is just not going to look right IMO .
> The table saws inside width between the fence rails is 29.25 and the width of the Incra top is actually less than 27"s . So I'm thinking instead of taking the easy way out I am going to use the top for a seperate router table similar to TimberTailors (although I can't build anything that complex drawer wise ) ,
> and build a new router top to replace the factory table saws extention . This way the new top can have a torsion box built underneith it and I can use the side of the torsion box to attach directly to the table saws fend rails as a thinner 3/4" top will allow for bolts to go threw below it.
> I think I'm going to kibosh using an Incra fence to , not sure .
> ...


NO FIBERGLASS. You think MDF dust is dangerous, look up Silicosis Cancer. Fiberglass dust is the devil's fairy powder!!!!!! The last thing you want is to have it settle on EVERYTHING and get disturbed every time you move a box or pick up an exposed tool.

Take a box of donuts and a thermos of coffee with you to your equivalent lumber yard and ask for Baltic Birch specifically.

You can get quality birch plywood from a good lumber yard (do not even think big orange or blue). I have a Kilgores. A small mom and pop lumber yard that only sells quality material. And, it s not much more than the other guys. Remember, these types of lumber yards usually cater to LARGE commercial orders. You are just a waste of time for them for the most part. Hence, the coffee and donuts.

Here is a good article if you want to learn more.

Ultimate guide to Baltic Birch Plywood

When you laminate two sheets of this remarkable quality plywood together on a flat surface (I use my table saw top), you get something that makes you wonder why MDF was ever conceived. NO screws, NO nails, just some wood glue and clamps or some heavy objects.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I've built MDF and ply router tables, and MDF every day of the week and twice on Sunday for me.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Brad how did you dado in those perfect slots to mount the aluminum tracking in ? Just clamp a straight edge for the router to follow or a dado blade on a table saw? 

I just had another thought . Seeing as the Incra table is to narrow , glue screw pieces of wood on the sides that go deeper than the Incra table but flush with it's top that intergrate into the torsion box underneith . 
Now my problem is , seeing as the Incra table is so darn thick , route out the sections where my bolts need to go threw , kind of creating a recessed area that wil create enough room to put the nuts on the bolts that go threw where the tables attached to the saws rails .
I probably need an illustration to better describe what I'm talking about .

Brad my idea with fibreglass was to use the resin only . If a guy brushed the resin on underneith it would be water proof plus stronger yet , kind of like that urethane stuff I suspect . But I've never worked with urethane


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Brad how did you dado in those perfect slots to mount the aluminum tracking in ? Just clamp a straight edge for the router to follow or a dado blade on a table saw?


 I just used my speed clamp and my Festool. For the long runs, I support the speed clamp in the middle because on long runs, they can bow if you apply too much pressure on the clamp.(I use my sheet rock T square and set it against the middle of the speed clamp and clamp the other end to the table).



RainMan1 said:


> I just had another thought . Seeing as the Incra table is to narrow , glue screw pieces of wood on the sides that go deeper than the Incra table but flush with it's top that integrate into the torsion box underneath .
> Now my problem is , seeing as the Incra table is so darn thick , route out the sections where my bolts need to go threw , kind of creating a recessed area that will create enough room to put the nuts on the bolts that go threw where the tables attached to the saws rails .
> I probably need an illustration to better describe what I'm talking about .


I follow you and that sounds like a good plan to me.



RainMan1 said:


> Brad my idea with fibreglass was to use the resin only . If a guy brushed the resin on underneith it would be water proof plus stronger yet , kind of like that urethane stuff I suspect . But I've never worked with urethane


That will work. Its when you start sanding the fiberglass material that you need to farm that **** out!! Just check to make sure you know what is in the mix before sanding. I would just use a polyurethane if you are concerned.

Personally, I have never found the need to seal up Baltic Birch plywood. I laminated the tops to make sure sweat\liquids do not fuzz the top surface and to help work material slide better over the top.

The edging is more for looks but it does help seal the only real vulnerable part of plywood when it comes to moisture. Here in the south, we are particularly susceptible to its ill effects.

Hope this helps.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Thanks for the feedback Brad . Ok the reason I mention resin is I have this thing for mdf , but many are not big fans of mdf . If I went with mdf I wouldn't have to be concerned with swelling due to moisture if I coated it with something like resin . That's the only reason I mention resin or urethane .

But I will probably look at some high end plywood instead as that seems to be the logical choice


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Rick I am not a big fan of MDF. Its not the dust. I tried making RT with it. It cups if you dado it. The material has surface tension. If the surface is cut on one side the other side's tension will cup it. Slat wall demonstrates that tendency dramatically.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

paduke said:


> Rick I am not a big fan of MDF. Its not the dust. I tried making RT with it. It cups if you dado it. The material has surface tension. If the surface is cut on one side the other side's tension will cup it. Slat wall demonstrates that tendency dramatically.


Thanks Bill that's one hell of a good reason not to use mdf 

I have no issues with plywood really , and I'll go that route . If I was to build a top and not use the Incra , I consider using it for a top though . But I think I have a game plan for the Incra top now . 
Trouble is Winsor Plywood is the only place that has the high end plywood in town , so I guess I will have to compromise and go with whatever HomeDepot has .

For my table saw I almost feel as though I should really be making the entire router extention table from scratch and kibosh using the Incra fence system at all and go with something that secures to those embedded aluminum guides like Oliver did ?
I don't have the confidence but a scratch built but it will look and fit much better


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok I'm thinking 2 layers of 3/4" mdf for the router table top . Route out the second layer where there needs to be enough clearance for the bolts that go threw the table saws fence rails . Use plywood for the torsion box and Formica for the top . Guess I better get some nice pine for edging on the tops perimeter . 

Now if they just sold those aluminum router fence guides here . Guess I best get on Amazon and start ordering


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

For the problem of dados, I do a really good job of supporting the space underneath the dado in particular, and use screws on both sides of it to attach it to the sub-layer (usually the plywood frame of the base). If you don't have this ability, then different methods or materials me be advised.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cochese said:


> For the problem of dados, I do a really good job of supporting the space underneath the dado in particular, and use screws on both sides of it to attach it to the sub-layer (usually the plywood frame of the base). If you don't have this ability, then different methods or materials me be advised.


Good point cause the dados are going to weaken the top fo certain . They have a really good deal on 1" mdf on occasion . I should check Home Hardware


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@RainMan1...

I don't understand your fixation on MDF Rick...
it's best left to wally world furniture...
there are so many alternate materials that perform so much better...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> @RainMan1...
> 
> I don't understand your fixation on MDF Rick...
> it's best left to wally world furniture...
> there are so many alternate materials that perform so much better...


Well it's just that it's so darn flat , well at first anyways . Well I'm almost talking myself into using the Incra top again . I know I'll screw up the miter slot knowing me , and the Incra's is already done , plus the hole for the plate


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> @RainMan1...
> 
> I don't understand your fixation on MDF Rick...
> it's best left to wally world furniture...
> there are so many alternate materials that perform so much better...


That's why we all have preferences.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> *Well it's just that it's so darn flat , well at first anyways* . Well I'm almost talking myself into using the Incra top again . I know I'll screw up the miter slot knowing me , and the Incra's is already done , plus the hole for the plate


exactly... 
go w/ the Incra and be done w/ it...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok I always thought about doing this , but someone questioned how the fence would react with feather boards mounted on it . When you think about it (with my fence at least) , it would raise it up at the rear . So maybe this isn't such a good idea. Of course you could clamp the far end of the fence down in that circumstance , but that kinda ruins it for me


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

put a clamp on the end of the fence to hold it down...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> put a clamp on the end of the fence to hold it down...


Naw that would bug me and seem like a design flaw. I have to sleep at nights you know


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well maybe if a guy had one of aluminum rails dado'ed in the far side and had a lever to suck the fence down?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

doesn't have to be a rude crude design but an engineered one...


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Well maybe if a guy had one of aluminum rails dado'ed in the far side and had a lever to suck the fence down?


What you talkin' about, Willis?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> What you talkin' about, Willis?


Mike I see Kreg actually has a knob on the end of there T square fence . I'm assuming it's for locking the end down ? I could implement something like that easily enough .
I was debating to figure out a design for my table saw that used the table saws fence for routing . My aluminum fence face comes off and is reversible on the saws fence .I have to take a better look at it. Maybe I could order a spare face and perminately secure a router table fence to it.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I don't know if that is a router fence or table saw fence.

On the router fence, I clamp both ends and adjust only one if needed.
My table saw fence is big and heavy. Once locked, it just sits there. No need for a clamp on the far end.


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

RainMan1 said:


> Well maybe if a guy had one of aluminum rails dado'ed in the far side and had a lever to suck the fence down?


I'm thinking of extending this idea and adding two t-tracks perpendicular to the TS blade, one at each end of the router fence. Then I can tighten the t-bolts to lock the router fence in place and disconnect from the TS fence when needed for a quick saw cut.

My table is a piece of our old kitchen island that was two layers of 3/4" particle board topped with Formica. The glue-up was very weak so I replaced the bottom layer with 3/4" MDF, milled to give access to the mounting hardware. I wrapped the whole thing with 3/4 x 2" white oak which anchors the bolts.


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## Duane Bledsoe (Jan 6, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> I don't know if that is a router fence or table saw fence.
> 
> On the router fence, I clamp both ends and adjust only one if needed.
> My table saw fence is big and heavy. Once locked, it just sits there. No need for a clamp on the far end.


That fence pictured above is a Kreg router table fence. Their router table top has a slot cut into it for the knob bolt to clamp into and the T square end of it attaches to the opposite end of the table.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks Duane


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ratbob said:


> I'm thinking of extending this idea and adding two t-tracks perpendicular to the TS blade, one at each end of the router fence. Then I can tighten the t-bolts to lock the router fence in place and disconnect from the TS fence when needed for a quick saw cut.
> 
> My table is a piece of our old kitchen island that was two layers of 3/4" particle board topped with Formica. The glue-up was very weak so I replaced the bottom layer with 3/4" MDF, milled to give access to the mounting hardware. I wrapped the whole thing with 3/4 x 2" white oak which anchors the bolts.


Jeff I like that and was thinking the same thing with my table saws extention . I like how you mounted the homemade fence to the table saws with knobs . 
Did you drill and tap the fence ?


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

Rick, that fence has t-slots on both sides and on top, makes it real easy to mount a sacrificial fence. With the router fence attached it still slides smoothly, and the TS fence locks down at both ends so it's rock solid.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well the Purolator truck dropped off the T track and T nuts and by chance UPS showed up too , but because I wasn't home and have to pay brokerage yet he couldn't leave the package that I really needed to get started . Next week I guess


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