# Best material for templates



## Mark Mayo (Jan 27, 2011)

What is your suggestions for material to make a template if a guide bushing is to be used? MDF?


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## radar57 (Dec 11, 2010)

I like to use MDF or tempered hardboard (both sides smooth). They are slick and allow for good adhesion of double stick tape and allow the router to move easily.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Mark Mayo said:


> What is your suggestions for material to make a template if a guide bushing is to be used? MDF?


Hi Mark - I'm with Keith on MDF or hardboard. For me it is usually MDF as it't difficult to get hardboard out here that is smooth both sides. If I'm making a template or jig that I expect to have awhile or if I'm buying I will try to go with Acrylic or polycarbonate for the durability.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jschaben said:


> Hi Mark - I'm with Keith on MDF or hardboard. For me it is usually MDF as it't difficult to get hardboard out here that is smooth both sides. If I'm making a template or jig that I expect to have awhile or if I'm buying I will try to go with Acrylic or polycarbonate for the durability.


3/8" or 1/2" MDF is what I use most of the time.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Another vote for 3/8" or 1/2" MDF. Where possible, it's good to "standardize" on one thickness, so guide bushings can be trimmed accordingly.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I use 1/4" and 1/2" MDF, most of my guides are 1/4" long on the stems but I do have some longer one also and that's when I use the 1/2" thick stuff..or the 3/4" thick stuff.
I like to use the pin nailer or the small nails to hold the template down to the stock.I just don't trust the tape most of the time, it likes to move just that little bit and it can lift the wood up when removing it sometimes..

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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I use MDF, based on price.

I once had the hairbrained idea of picking up a 4'x8' sheet of 3/4", 1/2" and 1/4" UHMW plastic to cut from when I wanted some.

Then I called the plastics wholesaler...

First I asked him about a sheet of 3/4".. he said something like $21... which I thought was pretty good until I realized he was talking per square foot. That sheet was about $650 and all three would have been over $1,000. Needless to say I'm a big fan of MDF.

If you've got a local supplier who will give you their scrap or have a jig you're going to use a lot it'd be a good idea but if you want to use it exclusively, open your wallet!


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## Mark Mayo (Jan 27, 2011)

THANKS

I will use mdf from now on. I tried some Baltic birch I had left and with each pass it changed - no good. All worked out, but I do not want to see that again. I guess you have to make mistakes sometimes to know what NOT to do in the future. I have all of my fingers and I can see!


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## boxwood (Jan 10, 2011)

I want to make an mdf template too and have a new question on putting a good edge on it. Is it possible to mount a small rotary sanding spindle to a variable speed router (mounted to a router table) and sand the template edge on the lowest rpm setting or is the router way too fast?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Too fast 

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boxwood said:


> I want to make an mdf template too and have a new question on putting a good edge on it. Is it possible to mount a small rotary sanding spindle to a variable speed router (mounted to a router table) and sand the template edge on the lowest rpm setting or is the router way too fast?


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

First I draw it up in CAD. Both quick and accurate. Then paste it onto MDF. Test cut and then use the MDF as a template to cut the proper template in Lexan.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Mark Mayo said:


> What is your suggestions for material to make a template if a guide bushing is to be used? MDF?


Hi Mark:

I use MDF for the low use jobs and lexan or other heavier plastic for the longer-lived stuff. I use 1/4" for top bearing bits and table mounted bottom bearing. If I'm using template guides, 3/8" or 1/2" MDF or lexan/poly-carbonate.


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## Mark Mayo (Jan 27, 2011)

What do you cut lexan with? Please answer table saw blade and how do you route the template - same way as mdf?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mark

They sale router bits just for lexan, you can use the table saw to cut up the lexan but it puts on the nasty edge but you can use the same bits for MDF and lexan also..just set the router down to low speed..

lexan router bit
Think of a router bit that looks like a drill bit but with one flute..
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Mark Mayo said:


> What do you cut lexan with? Please answer table saw blade and how do you route the template - same way as mdf?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Mark Mayo said:


> What do you cut lexan with? Please answer table saw blade and how do you route the template - same way as mdf?


Hi Mark:

As per Bob3J's comments. Most blades and bits will work with polycarbonates. Slow speed = yes. However, setup and practice your cut first, before actually doing it. What I do is set everything up except the bit height. I practice pushing the stock through. Here's what you're trying to do. If you set the bit speed too fast, it will melt the plastic. If you push the stock through too slow, you'll melt the plastic. Take the cut in small increments and don't dally when pushing the stock through. Make sure you've got "the right" push sticks etc. to push down and through and that your outfeed is not obstructed. Do not pause to reposition your hands etc. If you cannot do it in one deliberate pass, setup the torsion table and do it there with a straight edge and an edge guide.


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## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

Drill press at slow speed.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Mark Mayo said:


> What do you cut lexan with? Please answer table saw blade and how do you route the template - same way as mdf?


Hi Mark, I been cutting it on a table saw. Two passes, first a bit over half the thickness, flip it end for end and finish with the second pass. Eliminates a lot of chipout. Tricky on thin stuff as it likes to "ride" the blade.


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## dr4g0nfly (Feb 15, 2011)

Depending upon the size of the template to be made, smaller ones I like to use the laminate floor stuff. A pack is not expensive and lasts for loads of jobs, it has a hard wearing surface (the floor side) and the underside is MDF or a similar material, if you buy the bathroom version the MDF is Green - which identifies it as being 'Waterproof'.


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## Tripp1 (Nov 1, 2009)

Won't MDF eventually swell with temp and humidity changes?
And if so, I assume sealing it would be the only answer, and we all know how long it takes to seal mdf with some urethane.....seems like forever


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Tripp1 said:


> Won't MDF eventually swell with temp and humidity changes?
> And if so, I assume sealing it would be the only answer, and we all know how long it takes to seal mdf with some urethane.....seems like forever


A couple of coats of de-waxed shellac, which dries very quickly, works pretty well.


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## Tripp1 (Nov 1, 2009)

Anything to get a away from the 6 coats+ of the urethane I tried before
Thanks, I'll try it.....T


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

1/4" and 1/2" thick MDF works the best for me,,some of the guides are to long for the 1/4" MDF, if you have a error with water a coat or two with Johnson floor wax will fix that, and it drys very quick...do this for a quick test, put some on scrap MDF around the shop wait about 30 mins. than pour some water on the stock and watch it run off just like water off a ducks back..the wax will seal it.

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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Tripp1 said:


> Anything to get a away from the 6 coats+ of the urethane I tried before
> Thanks, I'll try it.....T


Forgot to mention - a "one-pound cut" is usually what is recommended for sealing purposes. The initial coat can be quite liberal, since it soaks in nicely, and dries within a few minutes under normal environmental circumstances. Be sure to cover all the edges, too. I usually let the second coat dry overnight, and then do a light sanding with 400 grit on the finish sander. 

Bob also brings up a good point - a light coat of wax, buffed well, can help to further reduce friction and enhance the "waterproofocity".


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## Mark Mayo (Jan 27, 2011)

I like the term

*"waterproofocity".*


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