# Wanted! pictures of your router table!



## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me. 
So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I think he should have enough seeing yours; I'd be embarrassed showing him mine!




Old_Chipper said:


> Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.
> So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Now Harry,


After seeing yours, what makes you think I am about to show mine 

That is one awesome set up!


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Gee whiz, thanks for making my OP table look inadequate now.


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Come on fellows!!!! This is for my son. He don't like mine, because they are too elaborate. He has a custom cabinet/furniture shop. He needs a table he can cut the OP type dovetail drawers on! He has the PC routers already and the OP system. He needs help on which lift system to get and a more functional table. (not sure I understand that part, I've been able to do anything I have wanted to on mine so far??)
Note: I have the old type Jessem lifts, which have served me well, but I'm sure there are better ones out there by now!

So please help him!!


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Okay.... Okay.... Harry, since you asked so nice, I'll reluctantly show mine. At first I built mine, but found it quite large and cumbersome, so I sold it and went with the Oak Park and have never looked back. "KISS" is so much better for my needs.

There are many more shots in the early part of my gallery if you want to explore further.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Harry,

I'd share a photo of mine but, not much since to it, since, it's almost identical to Bob's. Only difference is, I have the OP stand with mine. It's nothing fancy, not needed for me. Again, Bob said it best, "K.I.S.S." is so much better.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry


I'm not going to post mine, I'm sure many are tried of seeing them all the time..I have post them to many times..

Most of them are on the same order as the OP table but with one or two add on's 

here's two of them 
Amazon.com: CMT 999.500.02 Industrio Router Table System with Precision Fence, Phenolic Insert, Cabinet, Zero Clearance Inserts, Centering Tool and Insert Plate with 2 Aluminum Rings: Home Improvement

========


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## bigdogmedia66 (Sep 25, 2009)

Here's mine that I finished a couple of weeks ago.

TS/RT combo


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Harry...

hope your son has as much fun building his, as i did mine...


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## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

Guy's 

Some really nice router tables there. My needs are different, I use the router table to cleanup the edges of acrylic and the stock is sometimes (most of the time) large panels 40" x 24", 36" x 24"


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

I want to thank the members who took the time to post their work. I am totally surprised that out of over 300 visitors to this thread only 4 of you have tables, or were willing to share their idea of a good table. In the short time I have been with you, I have seen dozens of questions about which table design is best. I figured here would be a thread in which we could get many ideas; a thread that new comers could go to for ideas. Everyone has their own opinion as to what design best suits their needs. And as someone here has said, the first one rarely is what we want anyway! We don’t know what we need until we have made one and used it. I didn’t mean for this to be a contest, but a thread for different ideas for the many different needs of the woodworker. I know that I must have looked at a hundred tables before I started on my first table. It would have been nice to have them all in one place!
Maybe as a newbie myself, I posted this wrong, should I have posted it as a poll thread?


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Charles,
I gotta ask. Are you making aquariums? Looking at your post. It reminds me of when the shop had me make two 1,000 gallon tanks (one salt, one fresh) for the wing commander’s lobby. That was a learning experience!!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Well here's my OP setup with the new drawer. I can't see any reason to build something else.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Here is mine. I built it large enough to double as a work bench because space is limited. I believe it was member Trap, that posted one with a tool chest in it, so thats where I got that idea. Sears stores usually have 1 or 2 marked down with a small dent somewhere. There are no tracks, or slots, but I did build a fully adjustable fence with t-tracks that can be clamped on (it can be found in my gallery). Or I can use my Incra jig for a fence. The base is common 2x4's, doubled, and cut to form half-laps. The router hangs in an open ended plywood box. And the top is two layers of 3/4" mdf, wrapped with sappele.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*K i s s*

here's my current table.

Simple, portable, effective

and I am not embarrassed that it is an OP table.........

maybe when I get some talent, I will be able to make a cabinet for it...


James


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

dident see this post until now, 
here is mine


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

"Now that what I'm Talking About" Guess I just needed to beg a little.

Deb, what's the white hinged box on the right? Looks like a vacuum table?

John, I like the idea of using a tool box. Did you change the drawer slides? Only thing I don't like is the slides on some craftsman boxes, don't open far enough. How wide is your skis, do you get any bowing? John and I been Talking about what is best thing to use for the rods.

James, I want another table but don't have the room. Does that one fold up? Looks like just what I need. Sure looks like a big router, what is that?

Rick, looks like a nice fence. Do you have a closeup of that?
Thanks for getting us started.


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

If it's simplicity he wants here it is.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

The hinged box is for router bit storage. I put the hinges on it so I could lift it to a horizontal position when selecting bits. Much easier then standing on my head to get at the bottom ones.:laugh:
I don't have the vacuum plate, just a hose attachment on the left side of the table. It gets most of the dust that falls into the router area.


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## beeg_dawg (Apr 14, 2009)

bigdogmedia66 said:


> Here's mine that I finished a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> Damn- I wish I had seen this 2 months ago! Mine is similar, but there is a couple of things I could have added.
> 
> ...


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## GNiessen (May 27, 2009)

Rick,

I like your table. Simple but looks sturdy. Was it from plans, or can you provide dimensions?


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## yairfe (Sep 26, 2004)

*The functional approach*

Proud to represent the functional approach. Posted mine today on "Show N' Tell" forum.


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

GNiessen said:


> Rick,
> 
> I like your table. Simple but looks sturdy. Was it from plans, or can you provide dimensions?


unfortunately I don't have the plans any more.. I made the table and then was asked for the plans and I mailed them off to another member on this forum.. I haven't herd from him since. It was a plan that I got a very long time ago form American Woodworker Mag. this is the post I originally made
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/13040-my-new-router-table.html#post106237

I did some checking and did not find them on the American Woodworker site, but I did find these,
This one is very close to mine perhaps better.?
American Woodworker Router Table - Projects - American Woodworker

here is another one
$100 Router Table - Shop - American Woodworker
Oh and this would make a nice addition to any table.. 
Shop-Made Router Lift - Shop - American Woodworker

hope some of that helps Good luck and lets see what you come up with...


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

Old_Chipper said:


> "Now that what I'm Talking About" Guess I just needed to beg a little.
> 
> Deb, what's the white hinged box on the right? Looks like a vacuum table?
> 
> ...


I have better pics of the fence you ask for,

The first photo the clamp that holds to the table top has a dowel to pin the to pieces together to keep the bottom form spinning win you tighten the clamp.
the rest are self explanatory..


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Old_Chipper said:


> "
> James, I want another table but don't have the room. Does that one fold up? Looks like just what I need. Sure looks like a big router, what is that?


Harry,
The base is just a cheap copy of the B & D Workmate table. It does fold up and I remove the router/plate. 

The OP table is screwed to the fully wound out brackets.

Check my post under 'my new toy"

The router is a Triton TRA001, the best under table router on the market...LOL. (stand back from flack)

James


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Old_Chipper said:


> John, I like the idea of using a tool box. Did you change the drawer slides? Only thing I don't like is the slides on some craftsman boxes, don't open far enough. How wide is your skis, do you get any bowing? John and I been Talking about what is best thing to use for the rods.


Hey Henry:sarcastic:, This box has full extension slides, so I left them alone. The skis are made with 3/8" allthread. Do they sag? I dont know, I've not used them yet. When built my jig holder and skis, I was under the impression that they were always used together. But before starting my 1st project, I contacted Harrysin, and found out the skis are only used when your template will not sufficiently support the router. So, even though I've done a few projects with the jig holder, I've yet to use the skis. When I do, I'll probably shorten the width to the minimum required the particular project.


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## Gap_308 (May 2, 2009)

*Im late*

Late but I'm here, don't worry James i have your back. I too have the triton for my little table and it is the best under the table router. You have good taste in tools :dance3: . I did build a bench that it gets to sit on and ride on, router table stand/outfeed table/chopsaw table/ left over aquarium stand.


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Pictures her someplace

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/10305-ak-router-table-stand-progress-4.html#post95024


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I'll post mine in a couple of days. I still need to inset my pin router arm in the top and its done.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

*Go gentle on me..*

This is a WIP and is my first router table... but I'm experimenting a bit. Up until a bit ago it was an Incra / Jessem lift, PC router and Incra Fence. The last few days I've added the second router (a plunge with a bitjack for table-plunging) and a pin router arm. The plunger can also use the incra fence. I'm hoping to try out some mortise-making with it.

The miter gauge is from my table saw but was designed to fit if needed. The miter track also has Tee track. I still need to make the cabinet base.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Wow Jim..... that is one heckova set up. If that is your first, it will also be the last table you should need :yes4:

Nice Job!!!!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Ahhhhhhhhhhh Grasshopper... you've learned well!!!!!!


Now to come up with a cabinet design that looks as good as the table.....
Great job Jim!!!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jim that is one darn nice set up! I agree with Bob, that table should work well for a long time to come!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice setup Jim


=====



BigJimAK said:


> This is a WIP and is my first router table... but I'm experimenting a bit. Up until a bit ago it was an Incra / Jessem lift, PC router and Incra Fence. The last few days I've added the second router (a plunge with a bitjack for table-plunging) and a pin router arm. The plunger can also use the incra fence. I'm hoping to try out some mortise-making with it.
> 
> The miter gauge is from my table saw but was designed to fit if needed. The miter track also has Tee track. I still need to make the cabinet base.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Dang Jim !! Zebra wood table top too ? Well now you're just showing off ! 


Nice tables people ! 

I'll post my ghetto fabulous Ryobi make over soon.
I just changed the miter track and the plate is all. 
Use what ya have type a deal ya know what I mean.


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## garybaritone (Feb 21, 2009)

A man after my own heart. Looks like you enjoy making the machine and fixturing as much or more than the projects. Nice job. See my gallery for my latest router table loosely patterned after Norm's but with cast iron top, Benchdog prolift and added digital readout.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Thanks for all the kind words... as you can see from all the scratches on the table, router plates, etc., it was built to be used. It doesn't look like it but all you see was new three months ago. Hey, they're tools. That's why I buy 'em tough. I may not be the quickest learner out there but, with enough firewood, you *can* teach an old dog new tricks. Hey, we can *use* the firewood here in the "Cruel Arctic North"! <g>

The purpose of the picture of the lift with the wrenches is to show how, with the PC7518 and Incra/Jessem lift, the router lifts far enough for the wrench to engage the lower nut while flat on the table.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Duane867 said:


> Dang Jim !! Zebra wood table top too ? Well now you're just showing off !
> 
> 
> Nice tables people !
> ...


Yea.. I had to *import* the zebras... they aren't indigenous to Alaska... yet!


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## Melvin (Oct 30, 2009)

Well, you know more than me, what is an op table?? Thanks, Mel


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

The OP is the Oak Park router table as seen on the Router Workshop program. You can get one from Oak Park Enterprises or you can just get the plans and build your own.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

The Oak Park table is owned by many here, and comes highly recommended by those who do. If you've ever watched "The Router Workshop" on PBS (15 years worth), this is the table they use, and the things they do with it, Wow!

The design follows the KISS principal yet is very versatile. Everything that comes with it has a definite purpose. If you wish you can go to routerworkshop.net and subscribe to their archive of videos... and see many projects built on the very same table you own... or go there and see it in action and *then* get the table. This is no "sales video"; it's a "master the router and router table" video archive with hundreds of episodes.


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## bygolly (Jan 4, 2009)

Here's my combo. Table saw and router table.


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## collinstuart (Aug 8, 2009)

Here is my own "General International" inspiried set up


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Couple ones I found in shop Notes!


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Forgot to post a pic of my modified Ryobi intermediate table. 
Ditched the stock plate and miter track for a Rockler plate and Rockler miter track.
Made a WORLD of difference for SURE ! Now its more then a so so so table and moving in to the good range. Since the original plate was a crappy diamond shape the new plate would not completely cover the long side and just barely missed covering all of the short side corners. All in all I think it turned out fairly well. Its a hell of a lot more stable now then with that crappy diamond shaped plastic plate and that crap plastic miter track. YES you heard me right. The frigg'n miter track was plastic ! I actually have no quams with the stock fence at all yet. It works well for me thus far. I did true it up by sanding some rough edges when I 1st got it. they made the fence warp under pressure. No any more though. I am thinking of trimming about 1/16th inch - 1/32 off the bottom of each backer board on the fence though. Some times they bind because they ride the table when the fence moves. I'm happy with the set up so far. Its very light and easy to move around. Fits on my workmate like horses perfectly, and I can upgrade the router later with out having to buy a new table.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Nice setup, Duane..


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## Michael H (Aug 15, 2009)

*Incra router table build*

Here are some pics of my router table. It is based on the Incra LS17 table package. I built the cabinet and dust box to fit inside the leg set frame. Works really well for me.


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Jim, where did you get the pin arm for your router table?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

RStaron said:


> Jim, where did you get the pin arm for your router table?


Ron,

I got it from Lee Valley Tools.

Veritas® Pin Router Arm - Lee Valley Tools

I was given a bitjack

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=43039&cat=1,43000

by a friend, though they also sell them as a pair. The bitjack lets you set up a foot-pedal powered plunge for your plunge router. I installed a 9" round base plate on it first, which works both as a freehand base and in the table. 

Veritas® Base Plate/Table Insert - Lee Valley Tools

The plate comes with only the center hole drilled but with the included install kit, making the screw holes is easy-peasy. So is cutting the hole in the RT top; their kit includes provisions for cutting those circles too.

The base takes the 1-1/2" guides (available from Oak Park or Lee Valley), instead of the 1-3/16" PC guides. I've used the largest guide (1-1/2" OD) quite a bit because, with a 1/2" bit, you have an even 1/2" offset. It makes the math easy and minimizes errors, at least for me!

Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue--


1-3/4" Brass Template Guides - Lee Valley Tools

Lee Valley also sells brass router plate inserts, for when you use it handheld or in the router table.

1-3/4" Router Plate Inserts - Lee Valley Tools

I haven't yet had a chance to play with it much, as I'm trying to clear out some prior projects but at 7.5# of aluminum arm, its beefy as all get out!

I hope that helps, Ron.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jim I don't know why it didn't work but here's the link for the Bit Jack
Veritas® Router Bit Jack - Lee Valley Tools


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

CanuckGal said:


> Jim I don't know why it didn't work but here's the link for the Bit Jack
> Veritas® Router Bit Jack - Lee Valley Tools


Thank ye, Deb!


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> Ron,
> 
> I got it from Lee Valley Tools.
> 
> Thanks, BigJimAK, That was a great help. It sure looked beefy. I was toying with some time getting the Over arm pin router from Shopsmith to use on my Shopsmith but at over $400.00 a little to much for me. I saw plans for one in my back issues of ShopNotes I might build to try out for awhile.I have some projects I could use one for to make duplicates of, might come in real handy.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Ron,

Here's yet another solution.. MLCS daisy pin router


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

WOW that's quite a price difference between the Lee Valley model and the MLCS model. I wonder how they compare?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Well Deb... without the MLCS in hand to compare, I can only talk specs and appearances.

The MLCS is an 8" arm, the LV is 12". This would permit larger free hand work w/o removing it. How significant that is will vary from user to user.


The MLCS appears to have a fixed pin, the LV has a spring, should clearance be a problem.
The MLCS has 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 & 1/2" pins, the LV has 1/2, 3/8/, 1/2, 3/4" and a pointed tip for tracing patterns.

The LV has rod is clamped solidly in the arm with zero slack. I cannot speak of the MLCS though the toggle clamps I've seen have varying amounts of wobble when they aren't pressing firmly against something.

The MlCS appearsto be made of welded metal, though I cannot tell how ridgid it is. The LV is made out of cast aluminum and the fin-like things you see under the arm is not a decal; they are molded structural fins. Structurally the LV is made like a tank; I've no doubt you could drive a truck over it without damaging it. Again, I cannot speak to the MLCS.

I've nothing against the MLCS, in fact I mentioned it! It also strikes me that, with the right equipment and enough care in alignment, it could be shop-made.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jim I wondered about that toggle clamp. It sort of defines the whole setup, as in rather cheap. Thanks for the comparison, I think you did a great job for not having the MLCS one in hand 
I also saw the shop made one in Shop Notes. It was on that LONG list of shop projects somewhere.


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## Mt-Pockets (Sep 9, 2009)

Awesome pictures everyone.... Hopefully soon, I can add my own to this thread..


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

It's not all that tough.. all it takes is 10 posts and you're halfway there now.. visit a few forums, comment a bit or go to the introductions section and greet some people. You can have it in no time at all!


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## Mt-Pockets (Sep 9, 2009)

I'm working on it... Thanks


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## Mt-Pockets (Sep 9, 2009)

Oh Yeah.. First I have to build My first RT... 10th post.. now...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

And you're there. Congrats!


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Thanks, Jim and Deb for the info and comparison of the two. I think right now I'll have to look up the ShopNotes one and try that. Maybe down the road the LV one will be on my list of tools to buy. I could make one like the MLCS one, even the pins also, after hours where I work but I'll try the ShopNotes one first.


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## LeatherMan (Nov 15, 2009)

Thanks everyone for the great pictures, however, with MY wood working experiance, I need to see some joinery on how these tables are put together. Are there any places I can look for joinery ideas?
Thanks
Ben


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Michael H said:


> Here are some pics of my router table. It is based on the Incra LS17 table package. I built the cabinet and dust box to fit inside the leg set frame. Works really well for me.
> 
> View attachment 29817
> View attachment 29818
> ...



Now that is teh seckz'eh !!!


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> Nice setup, Duane..



Thanks Jim.
I've had to operate under a budget devised by Ebenezer Scrooge himself LOL !


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

drasbell said:


> I have better pics of the fence you ask for,
> 
> The first photo the clamp that holds to the table top has a dowel to pin the to pieces together to keep the bottom form spinning win you tighten the clamp.
> the rest are self explanatory..



I think I have plans for that fence if any one is interested ? 
It was posted in an old issue of Wood I think.
I visited a torrent download site and happened on around 20 gig worth of back issues. Wood, Fine wood working, Wood Smith etc etc ..... I have around 12,00 patters and plans now I also downloaded LOL ! 
Some generic simple stuff and some really neat things as well.


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## tonyjuststarting (Nov 1, 2009)

Thank you this was my favorite thread so far I can't wait to build a table


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

LeatherMan said:


> Thanks everyone for the great pictures, however, with MY wood working experiance, I need to see some joinery on how these tables are put together. Are there any places I can look for joinery ideas?
> Thanks
> Ben


Well, I used dado joinery for my cabinet. It worked well and is very strong.
Here's the build link.
http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/5103-router-table-cabinet.html


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Seeing all these pictures will light the fires of those wanting to build a first rate router table/cabinet. If I had the room, I would love to build another one after seeing all of these.

Great thread guys! Keep it going :sold:


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## LeatherMan (Nov 15, 2009)

Thanks Mike, your pictures do help. I need to get some information on joinery and the steps to do everything in. Thanks again... Ben


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

want to thank everyone for taking the time to show off their tables! 
I came across a couple more, Let's hope their builders don't mind me borrowing their images.
If you haven't posted yours yet, "Get Her Done!" Maybe someone will build a super table, with ideas from every table posted. That would be something to see!!


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Very nice


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

*Looking for Router Table Build How-To?*

There are a number of step-by-step router table / base builds on here, but here's dustmaker's (Frank's) I found doing a quick search. (Please accept my apology, Frank!)

This thread is for a big, fancy top and cabinet base but should give you some ideas of what can be done.

Yours need not be large or on a fancy base.. but this gives some good construction techniques.

Don't tell Frank I said this but he built a mighty nice table! 

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/16183-router-table-cabinet-build.html


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

:agree:I have to agree Jim, Frank did a super job on his table :agree:


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Jump'n Jesus ! 
He sure did do a bang up job !


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## ccmnova (Nov 4, 2009)

Some pics of a work in progress - old hospital table, rock solid, that doubles as an assembly table and I also have a kreg plate recessed into it for assembly work. I'm waiting for my plate and will have this set-up only for raised panel cutters - large dia. The fence will stay clamped just with kreg clamps (all this comes off and we use the table for the holidays with a tablecloth for big dinners). The bosch router base stays mounted and the table folds up easily for storage.

The other set up is a high fence that slips over the existing fence on my old metal table - the table is flat and solid but no chance to use large dia bits. I only use vertical panel raisers in this table and have made many - see pic of recently completed basement fireplace.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I'm glad to hear I'm not the *only* one! Up until recently I've been trying to talk myself out of installing some Kreg Klamp track in the top of my router table (you know, multi-purpose space). After following this thread I've been trying to talk myself into installing it instead of building another router table, with it installed! I'd like to get a couple of years out of this one at least! 



Bob said:


> Seeing all these pictures will light the fires of those wanting to build a first rate router table/cabinet. If I had the room, I would love to build another one after seeing all of these.
> 
> Great thread guys! Keep it going :sold:


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## bassdrum (Nov 3, 2009)

I've really enjoyed the offerings in this forum, though as a newbie I think many of them are beyond my needs and busget at the moment (Jim needs something to fill those lo-o-o-ong winter nights in AK), but I now have a lot of ideas for my own first build. Thanks Mike for the joinery pics - the first one really shows the layout and how easy it is to get everything aligned properly. The one thing I couldn't see was the cut line between the side and the back. Is it in the vertical dado to rabbetthe joint or is it offset? Also did you separate the pieces on the TS or use a guide and a skil saw or jigsaw.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Bill... Nice signature!! :lol::lol:


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Jim... as ya may know, I made provisions for pocket hole assembly on the back side of my table... The investment was minimal and the payback has been excellent. Go for it...

b.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I'm planning on plagarizing your idea (with permission, of course).  Nice to hear it's working out so well!


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## maginty38 (Sep 14, 2009)

That is a fine piece of work, it looks amazing..


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## bassdrum (Nov 3, 2009)

Thanks, Jim. I inherited it from my Dad. After hearing it for over 50 years it kind of grows on ya. Like yours too - been there, done that! (grew up in northern Manitoba).


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## Gap_308 (May 2, 2009)

*here you go*

I got it at woodcrafters on sale, I knew nothing about router tables and wanted to get started. It works but it uses a freud plate only. My next one will built into a rolling outfeed table along with kreg plate and rails. Gotta maximize space.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Scott... that looks good, and since its stable, you're set! It looks like it folds down nicely and should serve you well.

I'm space-limited myself, so everything I have is on casters so it can be stored against the wall in the garage. If it was me, even when I built another table I'd hang onto that one, since it stores in limited space. There's times (such as when using rail and style bits) where having multiple tables set up concurrently can be a real time-saver... especially if you make a mistake and have to re-make a piece that already has cuts in it from other bits and setups. (Don't ask me how I know this.)


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## paininthe (Jun 22, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Jim... as ya may know, I made provisions for pocket hole assembly on the back side of my table... The investment was minimal and the payback has been excellent. Go for it...
> 
> b.


Have I missed pictures or the description of this? I cannot find it.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Gap_308 said:


> I got it at woodcrafters on sale, I knew nothing about router tables and wanted to get started. It works but it uses a freud plate only. My next one will built into a rolling outfeed table along with kreg plate and rails. Gotta maximize space.


Hi Scott - Like the table, looks nice and sturdy for a foldup. Just a question, how is the fence attached to the table? Looks like it wants t-tracks someplace.


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## Gap_308 (May 2, 2009)

John in the photo your looking at the table is a blank, I got it on craigslist for 20.00 and it's a blank top from woodpecker. That fence is from the freud folder table, sorry for the confusion. Now for the answer. The freud folder has 4 blind nuts in the table, t-track would have been better. I love the fence but for the price ( 175 ) I could have built a nice Norm style unit. shoulda woulda coulda kinda thing, I always pay in cash or blood for my mistakes, such as life.


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## Gap_308 (May 2, 2009)

paininthe said:


> Have I missed pictures or the description of this? I cannot find it.


Paul the pics I think he's talking about are on page 8, 7th post down by Henry ( ccmnova ) pic 3 and 4 . Its post # 77 in this thread. The plate goes for around 60.00 US.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

paininthe said:


> Have I missed pictures or the description of this? I cannot find it.



Paul.. go to this thread, description and details/pics are included. Pics begin on page 7 or 8, something like that

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/14019-soft-start-variable-speed-table-setup.html


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## paininthe (Jun 22, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Paul.. go to this thread, description and details/pics are included. Pics begin on page 7 or 8, something like that
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/14019-soft-start-variable-speed-table-setup.html


My goodness, what a great set up and well executed, thanks for poinmting that out.


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## silentblackhat (Nov 29, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Harry...
> 
> hope your son has as much fun building his, as i did mine...


Very nice


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## MinorHero (May 10, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Harry...
> 
> hope your son has as much fun building his, as i did mine...


I think your fence might cost more then half my shop.


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## IWLOCAL21 (Dec 13, 2009)

Hey Harry, 

Need to get my ten posts then i'll have a few pics for u. Wish I would have joined this forum earlier, many great ideas out there


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Getting 10 posts only takes a couple of minutes if you choose to greet a few folks in the intro section. Good way to get to know people too!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

MinorHero said:


> I think your fence might cost more then half my shop.


You'd be surprised how much 3 years of nickel and dime'n, waiting for deals, being patient and a lil sweat can get ya...


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Just thought I would drag this to the top since I am starting to plan my router table build. I should be able to get started in a few weeks and need all the best ideas so I can blatantly steal them for my own!!!!


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## Mike Gager (Jan 14, 2009)

mines nothing special but its big


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Mike...

as long as your happy with it.... thats all that matters....


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## IWLOCAL21 (Dec 13, 2009)

still a little work to do on it but we are on and running!


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Mike Gager said:


> mines nothing special but its big
> 
> View attachment 30881


I like the size of the top and the finish of the whole thing. Gives it a clean look.


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## Mike Gager (Jan 14, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Mike...
> 
> as long as your happy with it.... thats all that matters....


yeah i like the size and height, im not real happy with the router plate, i need to get a different one and i wish i had more drawer space but i plan on fixing that one of these days


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Here's my cheap table. Goes together in a few seconds, and is ready to go.


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## Loco-Motion (Dec 9, 2009)

Great looking angle iron fence Jason. I think that i will borrow that idea, if you don't mind. What kind of wood is that table top?


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

AxlMyk said:


> Here's my cheap table. Goes together in a few seconds, and is ready to go.


That scares the crap out of me just looking at it, but if it works for you its good to go I reckon LOL !


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## IWLOCAL21 (Dec 13, 2009)

Have at it Buck, just as long as you give it back lol. The top and fence are 3/4 solid oak, I also bolted 1 1/2" x 1/4" angle underneath the outside perimeter for extra stability and clamping purposes. I then applied 4 coats of clear gloss lacquer for the finish. Just got done making transition threasholds from kitchen to living and it's working quite well! However I have noticed many people use MDF or some other material for thier top.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Duane867 said:


> That scares the crap out of me just looking at it, but if it works for you its good to go I reckon LOL !


You should see Mike's work, Duane. Very impressive.


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## Tuuek (Jun 27, 2009)

WoW I am a little late to the thread and after going thru the pages with all the different style of router tables Im amazed. Like the Old Chipper's son I am looking to build a table for my shop and here I have found a wealth of different designs. Thanks OC and everyone that posted.


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## Benny LaBaw (Jan 4, 2007)

James san, thank you for your idea.
I used table like image #1 for long tome.
But your idea is very useful...and pleasing or enjoyable...


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Thanks Jim;

Just to let you all know, that is a piece of styrofoam I set on the router. I don't really use it.


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## ross.anderson (Dec 27, 2008)

So as I've been studying all the pictures in this thread, I'm thinking I might be up for making my own table rather than buying one (Thank you to everyone who has posted, this is a very informative thread). The structure and the tabletop seem straight forward to me. The part I'm not sure about is how to build a fence that is adjustable. I've seen a bunch of pictures with groves cut through the top, and adjustment bolts coming out to allow it to move. Are these off the shelf products, or home made as well? Just seems like it would be difficult to get something to sit still with just a notch in the wood, or is there a metal rail or something that is underneath and I just can't see in the pictures? Just trying to feel out the options for that.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

ross.anderson said:


> The part I'm not sure about is how to build a fence that is adjustable. I've seen a bunch of pictures with groves cut through the top, and adjustment bolts coming out to allow it to move. Are these off the shelf products, or home made as well? QUOTE]
> 
> Ross, you're making this far too complicated. A fence can be any wooden straight edge.. make it long enough to reach the edges of the table and hold it in place with a couple of small c clamps. You don't need the fancy groves, t-tracks or adjusting bolts, etc. Those can come later, after you have used your table for a while and get an idea what you actually need to accomplish what you want.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

AxlMyk said:


> Thanks Jim;
> 
> Just to let you all know, that is a piece of styrofoam I set on the router. I don't really use it.


It's to late Mike. your secret is out. There is no going back now.
Just own it. 



HA HAHAHAHAHAHAAAAA !!


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Hi Ross,

IMHO You're best bet is to make a split fence. 
All you need is a piece of 90 degree angled aluminum ( or make your own from hard wood ), a hack saw, drill, T track, carriage bolts, T- bolts, and MDF.
Its the easiest thing in the world to build. It just sounds intimidating is all.

Think of it like the side of the fence closest to you on a table saw sled. 
Its basically A long board on end tall enough to pass over the blade with enough height up top allow enough material left to keep it securely together after it passes over the blade. Only difference is the opening will be larger, you'll have 90 degree cleets on the back for support, and two pieces of sacrificial MDF with terminated, through slots routed into them so they can slide to and fro on the fence.
The out feed side sacrificial MDF will be held on with slightly longer bolts so that you can use shims to joint.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

ross.anderson said:


> The part I'm not sure about is how to build a fence that is adjustable. I've seen a bunch of pictures with groves cut through the top, and adjustment bolts coming out to allow it to move. Are these off the shelf products, or home made as well? Just seems like it would be difficult to get something to sit still with just a notch in the wood, or is there a metal rail or something that is underneath and I just can't see in the pictures? Just trying to feel out the options for that.


Several mfg's make rail systems that work great for what you are trying to do. Kreg, Woodpecker, and Rockler come to mind.

Most have two parallel rails that allow the fences to be moved independently or together, depending on how you make your fence. They bolt from the underside of the top to all but eliminate the possibility of tear out.

I suggest building a split fence that also accomodates large bits and the mounting of feather boards. Lots of photos here and on the internet to give you an idea of what you may want.

Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress.


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## the_nite_owl (Oct 19, 2009)

ross.anderson said:


> So as I've been studying all the pictures in this thread, I'm thinking I might be up for making my own table rather than buying one (Thank you to everyone who has posted, this is a very informative thread). The structure and the tabletop seem straight forward to me. The part I'm not sure about is how to build a fence that is adjustable. I've seen a bunch of pictures with groves cut through the top, and adjustment bolts coming out to allow it to move. Are these off the shelf products, or home made as well? Just seems like it would be difficult to get something to sit still with just a notch in the wood, or is there a metal rail or something that is underneath and I just can't see in the pictures? Just trying to feel out the options for that.


I built mine with a piece of melamine for the bottom, MDF for the face. T-Track in the table for it to clamp down to. 45 deg wedges behind the face to firm it up against the melamine and make it solid.
On the face I glued a layer of MDF across the top and added some t-track into it for accessories. Below that I left clearance for the sliding fence and added t-track there as well. I use that piece of t-track to hold the sliding fence in place with flat head screws counter sunk into the face. I feel it gives a firmer flatter hold on the sliding fence than trying to have grooves and back side mounted knobs to tighten it down.

My biggest problem is that the melamine slides across the formica table top too well and no matter how hard I crank down those knobs it slips on me. I will probably get a very fine grit sandpaper and some spray adhesive and apply it to the bottom of the fence so it will grip better.

This is my very first attempt and I am a newbie but reading on here and looking at a lot of other peoples tables made it alot easier.
My table is two layers of 3/4" MDF glued together with formica top and bottom. I edged the sides with hard maple, added a WoodPecker plate, t-track for the fence to ride on and a combo t-track/miter slot track near the front.
You can see on the fence I have also set it up with dust collection. I just recently boxed in the router and added dust collection to the box for down drafting from the table top. I still have to add the power switch but I have one ready, just have to make a mounting plate for it to go on the steel frame I have the table top sitting on.


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## tdsapp (Apr 23, 2009)

Here is my table... Right now it sets on a couple saw horses when I need it. After Christmas I am going to be working on a bench for the shop and then it will go into the bench.

It's two 3/4" MDF sheets glued together and then routed for the T-rails and miter guide. I did not cover it with any laminate or anything... It has several coats of a hard poly to make the surface slick. It has worked great for me so far. 





































The fence I made myself as well. It's from a design I saw in a magazine that is just for routers... One of the "Router Secrets" magazines. 


Tim


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

Mine is a "work in progress." 

It ain't gonn'a be pretty but I hope it will be functional. I just put a phenolic plate into the top of an existing workbench. I have routed a track along the edge of the bench for featherboards. Tracks for a fence are next.

Pics at Photography of Terry Danks-Woodworking

The tracks I am using are ones from Busy Bee: Busy Bee Tools Product Detail

Uses standard 1/4" - 20 hex bolts
3/4" x 3/8" requires 3/4" material for flush mount 

Does anyone know if there are miter gauges made to fit small tracks like these? I would like to make a sled for doing cabinet rails but am unsure if I should be using tracks like these. They seem smaller than "standard" table saw tracks.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

dawziecat said:


> Mine is a "work in progress."
> 
> It ain't gonn'a be pretty but I hope it will be functional. I just put a phenolic plate into the top of an existing workbench. I have routed a track along the edge of the bench for featherboards. Tracks for a fence are next.
> 
> ...


I am not sure if there is miter gauge made for the smaller track. 

I would suggest laying down two tracks. One small and one for a miter gauge, just in case.

Woodpeckers sells them. I am sure Rockler does too!!!

Looks like a good use of space and you will never be lacking in table top space.

What do you plan to use for a fence?


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## the_nite_owl (Oct 19, 2009)

dawziecat said:


> Mine is a "work in progress."
> 
> It ain't gonn'a be pretty but I hope it will be functional. I just put a phenolic plate into the top of an existing workbench. I have routed a track along the edge of the bench for featherboards. Tracks for a fence are next.
> 
> ...


I am not aware of amy miter gauges that fit a t-track slot but you may be able to adapt one by replacing the bar that rides in the mitre slot.
I used a combination miter slot/t-track  on my table so it has both in the table as an integrated piece. Rather than top down screw mounting it mounts to the table with 1/4 - 20 hex bolts from the underside of the table. Looks good and no screw heads to get in the way.


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

the_nite_owl said:


> I used a combination miter slot/t-track  on my table so it has both in the table as an integrated piece.


Thanks, Trent. The combo track seems a great idea. It's going on my list of things to order when I get to FL later this winter. In the meantime, guess I'm stuck with the T track as I can't find the combo at any CDN suppliers.


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## the_nite_owl (Oct 19, 2009)

dawziecat said:


> Thanks, Trent. The combo track seems a great idea. It's going on my list of things to order when I get to FL later this winter. In the meantime, guess I'm stuck with the T track as I can't find the combo at any CDN suppliers.


Some say it is unnecessary or that a miter slot alone would suffice but I am a newbie and not entirely certain what my needs will be in the future so I modeled my table features after the router table where I took a few woodworking classes and it had the dual track in the table. I figure this way I have a lot more flexibility in accessories.

Look a few posts back in this thread and there are a couple pictures of the table I built. I am very pleased with it as my first major project though I did make a number of mistakes. Those mistakes were a great learning experience though including the one where I put a small hole in my newly drywalled shop wall when I tried to widen a dado on the wrong side of the blade and instead shot it off the table. :happy:


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

timbertailor said:


> What do you plan to use for a fence?


I have a specific goal in mind (cabinet doors) and am just trying to "get there" ASAP. Hang the ascetics! No wusy laminate , nor fancy sacrificial fence and no dust control either (although I am considering that . . . SHEESH, these things kick up a mess, don't they?:cray
I'm already sick of working ON the table and want to get working WITH the table.
I have a fence roughed out for using vertical panel raising bits . . . of course I don't actually have the bit yet . But next trip to town . . . 

I used this link American Woodworker - Google Books as a guide . . . but skipped the prissy laminate and the uber-feminine hardwood strip along the top. I figure "real routers" don't flinch at a few splinters.


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## oliverc612 (Dec 3, 2009)

Well I am late to this thread, but thought that I would post a few pictures of my current RT. It was made about 5-6 years ago and has been modified a few times since birth. I plan on using ideas gathered from RouterForums to make a new one sometime in the near future. Thanks for all of the good ideas folks!

The RT has 2 1/5" vacuum hose connections from the fence and below next to the router. This setup picks up maybe 75% of the dust and chips and needs to be enclosed to be more efficient. 

Anyway, it works for now.


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

Oliver, did you make your own plate out of hardboard? I see a horizonal panel raising bit in the drawer. These need 3hp plus machines to drive so you must have a pretty beefy router in there(can't tell from the pic).
I considered using masonite to make a plate but thought, after countersinking the mounting screws, there would not be enough left of the temprered surface to safely support the 13lb 3 1/4 hp router.


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## edhills (Dec 14, 2009)

I am bleeding with jealousy... I have a boughten Ryobi router table and just got 2 new routers for Christmas. I haven't even plugged them in yet to test them. I'm going to get some wood next week and just try the bits and get used to them and how the table handles. I want to make my own RT but I might buy the Router Workshop setup. I've been watching the program a long time and think that may be the way to go. Am I the only one in Olympia that wants to use a router? Kewl tables guys...


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## oliverc612 (Dec 3, 2009)

Hi Terry, The top of the RT is made from one layer of 3/4" MDF with bracing underneath. The edge of the table is built up with another layer of MDF to make the edge 1 1/2" thick. The plate is made of 3/8" MDF - but is the source of problems with sag (as you may guess). It was OK with a smaller router, but as I have moved up in HP (and weight) the sag has become a problem. Repeatability is becoming an issue.
I am contemplating which plate to move to and am thinking that I will also build a new table top that is a little bit bigger as well. 
Any suggestions as to which plate and ring set you think is best? And why?
Thanks,


----------



## oliverc612 (Dec 3, 2009)

Oh- Terry, the router in the picture is a Porter-Cable 89x - 2 1/14 HP. I have run a PC 7519 in the table, but cannot use it for large bits (single speed).


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

edhills said:


> I am bleeding with jealousy... I have a boughten Ryobi router table and just got 2 new routers for Christmas. I haven't even plugged them in yet to test them. I'm going to get some wood next week and just try the bits and get used to them and how the table handles. I want to make my own RT but I might buy the Router Workshop setup. I've been watching the program a long time and think that may be the way to go. Am I the only one in Olympia that wants to use a router? Kewl tables guys...


Hi Ed, I don't know which Ryobi table you bought but Duane867 did a superb job with his. 
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/17895-king-router-ryobi-table.html

You will need to scroll down a few posts but he has a picture of it.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Ed you won't be disappointed with the Router Workshop Table. I think these guys have done an amazing job building some of these tables, some of them rival fine furniture. But I wouldn't trade the RW table. It's simplicity and capabilities suit me just fine.


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## RLFX (Nov 20, 2009)

collinstuart said:


> Here is my own "General International" inspiried set up


That is by far the nicest looking table I have seen, I love the painted look ans looks so neat .. I do custom wood work and I just love that machine of yours !!


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## valkyre00 (Jun 7, 2009)

Anyone considered using the kitchen cabinet base cabinets like they sell at Lowe's or Menards as the base cabinet for their R/T. They are somewhat inexpensive and appear as though they would make a great base cabinet.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

valkyre00 said:


> Anyone considered using the kitchen cabinet base cabinets like they sell at Lowe's or Menards as the base cabinet for their R/T. They are somewhat inexpensive and appear as though they would make a great base cabinet.


Hi Marvin - Welcome to the forum. 
This is kind of a interesting topic by itself. Why don't you start a new thread for it? This one is getting kinda long.
For me they would be size prohibitive. Usually 5ft or so and I haven't got room. 2-3 ft is all you really need.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

valkyre00 said:


> Anyone considered using the kitchen cabinet base cabinets like they sell at Lowe's or Menards as the base cabinet for their R/T. They are somewhat inexpensive and appear as though they would make a great base cabinet.


Yes, people have done that with very good results. You could also find them at a Habitat for Humanity store.


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## AUFAITHFUL (Nov 30, 2009)

collinstuart said:


> Here is my own "General International" inspiried set up


Collin, Where did you buy your fence. Is it pieced together or is it a package deal?


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

*Well, it's done . . . and seems fine.*

About a month ago, I had virtually nothing in the way of a router other than a 35 year old Craftsman I had never used (successfully, anyhow) for anything other than mortising hinges. Everything else was just a disaster and I wondered how in heck people managed to use these things?

Table is now complete and I have already turned out a pair of beadboard inset panel doors for my wife's bedroom furniture project using a rail and stile bit set.

Very happy so far. Thanks to forum members for suggestions, advice and the encouragment to build my own rather than buy a cheap commercial one. This is a great source of information. 
Picture of the table, inset into my old workbench is attached. The monstrously high fence is to allow for use of a vertical panel raising bit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I guess I should add some snapshots of the router tables in the shop ..

=======


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> I guess I should add some snapshots of the router tables in the shop ..
> 
> =======



O-M-G!

I just drooled all over my keyboard


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

I should clean the shop up like yours but I'm always making a mess 

========




Bob N said:


> O-M-G!
> 
> I just drooled all over my keyboard


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Ha! BJ, mine is not as clean these days as you might think, besides, if yours was any cleaner the Better Homes and Garden people would be featuring it in their magazine :jester:


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

No dust on the floor ??? Took some time off ? Nice looking shop and shop item's also thanks for the rain deer pattern I made probly 40 or so Got a few for next yr. At least don't have to feed them Have a good yr del


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

bobj3,

I am jealous. My garage is at the point that if I want anything new, something old has to go! That reminds me - I need to submit my plans for a tool shed to the home owners association asap. The lack of garden tools in your shop is what reminded me.

Thanks for taking time to upload some photos.

P.S. Here is a link to the kitchen I have been working on.

Latest kitchen project

Owner is still debating what finish he wants. I really have enjoyed my new router table setup. It has been a real pleasure to work with and my work has improved.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Brad

Thanks,,I got the garden tools in the back room plus other stuff 

=====



timbertailor said:


> bobj3,
> 
> I am jealous. My garage is at the point that if I want anything new, something old has to go! That reminds me - I need to submit my plans for a tool shed to the home owners association asap. The lack of garden tools in your shop is what reminded me.
> 
> ...


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Brad
> 
> Thanks,,I got the garden tools in the back room plus other stuff
> 
> =====


I was wondering where you were hiding your scrap lumber. 

I need to really wittle my pile down. I just have a hard time bringing myself to throw it out or burn it.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I know what you mean , I have boxes and boxes of cut offs most hardwoods but sometimes I just need a little bit of pine or mdf .
My son will grab some now and than/then to go camping I need to watch him, he like to take the hardwoods 
Makes me recall he had a box full of Teak and I said wait one ..

============



timbertailor said:


> I was wondering where you were hiding your scrap lumber.
> 
> I need to really wittle my pile down. I just have a hard time bringing myself to throw it out or burn it.


----------



## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

I have come way late into this but here is a link to my earlier post:

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/10856-ugly-router-table.html

The follow-up thoughts:

1) Attaching the table to the mitre saw is a mistake. One can use one or the other but not both at the same time. Which is a pain.

2) A piece of 2x4 jointed on my other fence works fine as a fence. At. $1.74 for 8' I can have many fences...

3) The knobbly clamps sold by OP are great. The cost including postage is $35. Here is a pair made from cheap clamps bought on sale for less than a third of that:

Router table clamps on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

4) I have found a way to make a removable elevated bench on top of my Black and Decker workmate using some 4x4s and a piece of plywood from the now defunct ******* lathe. I am thinking of making a router table top in a similar way this time using one of the cheap phenolic plates to give me the option to use bigger cutters.


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## btracey1 (Dec 17, 2009)

*Router Table*

Hello,
I have finally finished my Router Table/Cabinet. I chose to use the NYW plans for the cabinet and purchased a Woodpeckers Router Lift and Table.
It took me three weekends but the results were worth it. 
Suggestions on improving it are most welcome.
Brian


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Brian

That's a fine looking RT, nice job, I'm sure it will serve you well 



===



btracey1 said:


> Hello,
> I have finally finished my Router Table/Cabinet. I chose to use the NYW plans for the cabinet and purchased a Woodpeckers Router Lift and Table.
> It took me three weekends but the results were worth it.
> Suggestions on improving it are most welcome.
> Brian


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

btracey1 said:


> Hello,
> I have finally finished my Router Table/Cabinet. I chose to use the NYW plans for the cabinet and purchased a Woodpeckers Router Lift and Table.
> It took me three weekends but the results were worth it.
> Suggestions on improving it are most welcome.
> Brian


Really nice job and great lift too!

I am guessing that is a PC router, maple plywood for the drawers and doors, and oak plywood for the carcass and face frame.

Very clean look. I am sure you will enjoy it for years to come.

I can't wait to get mine built.


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## Packard (Jan 23, 2010)

Well, I'm building a table now. But I want to incorporate dust collection that that will necessitate a closed cabinet. Most of the cabinets have a door that opens on the side of the cabinet. I was thinking of hinging the top and tipping it up instead. It seems to me that there would be a lot less bending over and a lot more light shining on the router for bit changes, etc.

Has anyone done a table with a hinged top? Am I overlooking anything?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Packard said:


> Well, I'm building a table now. But I want to incorporate dust collection that that will necessitate a closed cabinet. Most of the cabinets have a door that opens on the side of the cabinet. I was thinking of hinging the top and tipping it up instead. It seems to me that there would be a lot less bending over and a lot more light shining on the router for bit changes, etc.
> 
> Has anyone done a table with a hinged top? Am I overlooking anything?


I guess it depends on what hardware you have and what your needs for access to it are. I have decided that there will be no door at all to the router. With my current lift, I have little need for access.

I think it would be easier to assure a flat and stable base for your router if it were fixed. But, I am sure a tilt top could be built to assure the same rigidity.

What do you need to access?


----------



## terrysumner (Dec 8, 2008)

Packard said:


> Well, I'm building a table now. But I want to incorporate dust collection that that will necessitate a closed cabinet. Most of the cabinets have a door that opens on the side of the cabinet. I was thinking of hinging the top and tipping it up instead. It seems to me that there would be a lot less bending over and a lot more light shining on the router for bit changes, etc.
> 
> Has anyone done a table with a hinged top? Am I overlooking anything?


Yes, I built mine with a hinged top. I find it extremely convenient. I have a Milwaukee 3.5 hp router in it and it has it's own raising mechanism that works really well so no router lift is required. I screwed together 2 layers of 3/4" melamine and used a full length piano hinge on the back. Here are some photos of mine...Hope you like it...

Terry Sumner

Hosted on Fotki

Hosted on Fotki


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## bassdrum (Nov 3, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> I guess I should add some snapshots of the router tables in the shop ..
> 
> =======


Looks like you've got your hands full with all that machinery! Which one do you operate with your teeth?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Old_Chipper said:


> Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.
> So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.


Hi Harry,

We showed you ours, lets see yours...LOL.

Has you son built his table yet?

Some photos would be nice..


James


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## anotherBob (Oct 28, 2009)

Packard said:


> Has anyone done a table with a hinged top? Am I overlooking anything?


Hi Packard,

My little shop (2/3 of a one car garage) dictated a small router table, here's what I came up with... the front hinges open too, and the knob tightens/loosens the baffle so I can control suction from the port in the back. Although you can not see it, the top is a torsion box using two layers of 3/4" phenolic coated baltic birch ply, wood web in the middle - see screw holes, and formica covering an aluminum mounting plate. hth...:




























pardon the mess... had to move a few things to grab a few quick shots as I'm in the middle of a couple projects...


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## gregmw (Oct 30, 2009)

This is a great thread,only problem is that just when I thought I had an idea of what to build you guys come up with some more great ideas and pics/

Well done and keep them coming!

Regards

Greg


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## RLFX (Nov 20, 2009)

*My Table*

Pics of my table finishing it today !!


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## Northerner26 (Jan 2, 2010)

btracey1, your router cabinet is awesome and exactly what i want to build someday soon!

bobj3, just how many jigs do you own??


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Kevin

" bobj3, just how many jigs do you own??"

Too many  , I would guess over a 100 or so.. 

=====



Northerner said:


> btracey1, your router cabinet is awesome and exactly what i want to build someday soon!
> 
> bobj3, just how many jigs do you own??


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice job Randy 

========



RLFX said:


> Pics of my table finishing it today !!


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RLFX said:


> Pics of my table finishing it today !!


Really nice job on the fence and the stand.

How long did it take you to paint all those router bits the same colors?:jester:


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## Northerner26 (Jan 2, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Kevin
> 
> " bobj3, just how many jigs do you own??"
> 
> ...


HOLY $h*T, a 100 jigs? wow
pictures of each would be to much to ask but i would love to know
what each is for, even that would be a monumental task!
do they all get used very often or just a few?

i just got into woodworking and the first things i have been making are a few jigs.

====================================================

anyway, not to get off the subject, here are pics of my table.
its a new Eagle America that is no longer made but i have decided to turn
around and sell it, i want a cabinet and a top with different options.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Kevin
> 
> " bobj3, just how many jigs do you own??"
> 
> ...


Geez Bob, took ya 4 days to count the routers... Pleeeeze don't count the jigs, we want you back before July/August:laugh::laugh::sarcastic:


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## Wizard1500 (Jul 20, 2009)

My table is from the plans of OP....I like it.....


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Most I use all the time, I have been trying to consolidate many of them to do more that one job.
I have posted many of them that you can see in my Gallery and what they are for and how to use them.. 
If you start at the end of the gallery it's quicker but it can take a bit of time to see them all..  ( just over 8,000 snapshots)

I do love jigs, I started out like most with small items ,turning wood, making toys,small furniture,bigger and bigger furniture,boxes,etc. so now I have no more room in the house to put them so now I make jigs  takes less room to hang them in the shop  but I do love wood working and making saw dust..

=======




Northerner said:


> HOLY $h*T, a 100 jigs? wow
> pictures of each would be to much to ask but i would love to know
> what each is for, even that would be a monumental task!
> do they all get used very often or just a few?
> ...


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Northerner said:


> HOLY $h*T, a 100 jigs? wow
> pictures of each would be to much to ask but i would love to know
> what each is for, even that would be a monumental task!
> do they all get used very often or just a few?
> ...


It is very nice looking. Love the wood. You should have no problem selling it.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Wizard1500 said:


> My table is from the plans of OP....I like it.....


I see I am not the only one that likes to do router work closer to chest level.

I like it too. Function is important.


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## asrubin (Jan 1, 2008)

*My Table*

This is not a pretty table but it is very functionable.....I just added the "feather rollers" to the table last week and they work great.. I went to HD and purchased two sponge rollers that are used for painting and attached them to the fence. They are adjustable and do a great job holding the work in place while router is working the boards.
Thanks for looking..........


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## slowhand (Jan 19, 2010)

I would be too ashamed to post mine up against all the works of art I have seen here. 
It is the Triton router table I use, nothing fancy but it works....


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## Wizard1500 (Jul 20, 2009)

Brad, I'm a retired IT specialist....I always liked to have my keyboard almost at chest level.....easier to work with things, when you're up close & personal......


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## Northerner26 (Jan 2, 2010)

timbertailor said:


> It is very nice looking. Love the wood. You should have no problem selling it.


*actually im having a very hard time selling it. maybe you guys can tell me what you think its worth? and then i will tell you what i have had on it for a price!*


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Northerner said:


> *actually im having a very hard time selling it. maybe you guys can tell me what you think its worth? and then i will tell you what i have had on it for a price!*


Kevin,

I thought about this for a while and it is really hard for me to tell you what I think it is worth.

My only concusion is that others are looking for the same features you are in a table.

It is a much nicer router table than I owned for many, many years.


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## Northerner26 (Jan 2, 2010)

it really needs to be seen in person cause the pictures dont do it justice.
i have it listed on Craigslist
i first started the price at $250 and after 5 or 6 weeks it has been lowered several
times and now rests at $190
i wont go any lower then that, i think that is more then a fair price!


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Bigdogmedia66, that is a nice set-up for RT/TS. That has me thinking of doing something similar. Hmmmmmm!


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

WOW!
When I started this thread I had no idea that it would keep going this long. Thanks to each and all posters. Lots of great stuff here, 
"We showed you ours, lets see yours...LOL. Has you son built his table yet?"
James, Three of mine (The ones I use Most) are with my first post! I have 2 more, but they are the old craftsman, portables, not worth showing!!!!
Unfortunately the VA has told my son that he is 100 disabled and must close his business. (Long story) He don’t have room in his garage for all his tools, we don’t know what he will be doing at this point.


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## jonweis (Feb 14, 2010)

*Just built this one!*

Here's a table I built this winter. The top is Peachtree as well as the Fence system. The plate is Highland Hdwre. and the router is Hitachi w/a router raizer. The castors are Bench Dog and the switch is from MLCS


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Old_Chipper said:


> WOW!
> When I started this thread I had no idea that it would keep going this long. Thanks to each and all posters. Lots of great stuff here,
> "We showed you ours, lets see yours...LOL. Has you son built his table yet?"
> James, Three of mine (The ones I use Most) are with my first post! I have 2 more, but they are the old craftsman, portables, not worth showing!!!!
> Unfortunately the VA has told my son that he is 100 disabled and must close his business. (Long story) He don’t have room in his garage for all his tools, we don’t know what he will be doing at this point.



Unfortunate news about your son, Harry.

Lets hope he gets a chance to use some of the tools occasionally.

James

James


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I'm sorry to hear that, Harry...


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

jonweis said:


> Here's a table I built this winter. The top is Peachtree as well as the Fence system. The plate is Highland Hdwre. and the router is Hitachi w/a router raizer. The castors are Bench Dog and the switch is from MLCS


Welcome to the forum.

I keep seeing these great tables. I am just chomping at the bit to finish mine.

Do you have any more pictures with the assembly process?

I like to see what different approaches people take to building one. I will take any ideas I can get.


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## Stefang (Feb 10, 2010)

Since many have already posted their router tables here I thought I should too, if for no other reason than to show you that I actually have one. Mine is just another Bill Hylton clone that I built a few years ago. I used Hylton's design but built it my way (the cheap way).

I used some fir framing material and some 3/4" hardboard I had from a remodel project. It is all frame and panel, mortise and tenon construction. I remember there were 54 mortises and tenons, all hand cut. I figured I needed the practice. The drawers are made with all hand cut dovetail joints (more practice). It's mounted on wheels. In fact just about every thing in my relatively small (220 sq. ft.) shop is . I use the router table as an out-feed table for my table-saw.

The height adjustment knob pictured is a prototype. I intend to make a nice permanent one out of Oak. I wanted to try this one first just to see how it would work. As you can see, the shaft is quite long, and while it works quite well, I have to figure out how to keep the shaft centered better when I'm cranking it. For now I am steadying it with my hand, but I want a better solution. It was easy to make. I just cut the handle pattern through a board on my scroll saw and glued another board with the handle on top. I can put it on and take it off real easy.

There are many finer and smarter tables pictured on this thread, but I am very pleased with mine/Bill's (ignorance is bliss). I especially like the white Oak fence which is also Bill Hylton's design. The clamps on it are really great and it is a pleasure to use.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Very nice, Mike.

Notice any issues with movement on the wheels? I need to make mine mobile (read: 4x4), so I'm very interested in what you have to say.


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## Stefang (Feb 10, 2010)

Hi Chris,

I have locks on the wheels, but unwanted movement really isn't a problem. I have been doing a lot of heavy cuts with my lock miter bit recently and even though I cut the joint in one go I haven't had any problems. To be honest I don't even bother locking the wheels anymore when I'm using it.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

I hope my table turns out half as nice as your Mike.

Nice job!


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## ryanlamprecht (Feb 19, 2010)

*Holy Moley! Someone has a lot of free time on their hands. You should find a hobby. Those are incredible tables. If I were your son, I would be asking Dad for one of his. By the way, I'm up for adoption. *


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## Stefang (Feb 10, 2010)

I posted my main router table yesterday but forgot to include a couple of others I have. The first one is yet another Bill Hylton designed horizonal router table. I haven't used it as much as I should because my old router was more difficult to demount from my main table. This won't be a problem any longer with the quick action attachments I got from with my Trend router.

*Pictured below is yet another router table. It's not a very interesting table, but it has a story to go with it.* 

I saw box posted on a scroll saw forum around last Christmas by a lady from Australia. It had some amazing scroll work on it, but the box construction was pretty poor and ruined the whole effect. 

I wrote her a private message saying it wouldn't too difficult to make a box which would better showcase her outstanding skills and that I would be willing to help her out with it. She was positive to the idea so I started up a tutorial with text and pictures via email. 

The idea was to show her how to construct a box using box joints cut on her scroll saw. Her main tool kit is a router, a scroll saw and a band saw. I thought to use the scroll saw because she is most familiar with that and the instructions would be simpler to write and follow. It all went great, but when we got the part where grooves have to be made for the bottom and maybe the top, we would have to use the router, but we agreed that a router table would be best for her. 

She said she didn't want to spend much money, so I had to figure out a table made from scraps that was very small and could easily be clamped to a table or bench. I won't bore you with all the details except to say that I built one so I could send her pictures on how to do it. The criteria for the table was Bare bones, very cheap, simple and safe. The funny thing is that after the work was done and the photos and text sent to her she replied a little sheepishly that she got a great bargain on a table at a home center, and did I mind? Well, of course I didn't and I had some fun making this little table. Since then she had made a very beautiful box with box joints and posted it on another forum and she is justifiably proud of it.

The pictures show some project details. No impressive craftsmanship here. Made it in a couple of hours not including glue time. The whole thing is based on those two frames you see pictured. 

The first pic shows the finished base. Note the protruding bottom which serves as clamping ears. The last one shows a test rout after completion.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

A neat and unusual table Mike, perhaps next time you use it you'll remember to take a few shots of it in use.
I notice in the background one of those "Magilamps", the ones with a fluorescent tube around the magnifying glass, the exact thing that only yesterday I described as "eye killers" caused by the flicker so close to one's eyes.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks for the pictures Mike

I almost forgot about the 1st.Horz.router table I made like yours,I also use the plan from the Hyltons book to make my copy.

My son one day said I need a router table, I pulled it off the back side of the sewing machine cabinet router table and mounted to a cabinet and he took it home for his standard router table  I think he is still using it. 

=====



Stefang said:


> I posted my main router table yesterday but forgot to include a couple of others I have. The first one is yet another Bill Hylton designed horizonal router table. I haven't used it as much as I should because my old router was more difficult to demount from my main table. This won't be a problem any longer with the quick action attachments I got from with my Trend router.
> 
> *Pictured below is yet another router table. It's not a very interesting table, but it has a story to go with it.*
> 
> ...


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Necessity.

The Mother of invention!!!!!!


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## Stefang (Feb 10, 2010)

Hi Harry and BJ,
*Harry*
I am surprised to learn that those type lamps are bad for the eyes. I have a very well lighted workshop with florescent ceiling lamps everywhere, but I use the little "magilamp" as it has a large magnifying glass mounted in the center. I only use it when doing very fine work. The really small blades can "disappear" during a long session so that magnifier really helps. I must admit though that incandescent light is a lot more pleasant to work with and probably a lot easier on the eyes. I have already used that little table a bit. I have a small router in it. I thought to maybe introduce my grandson to routing with it. I'll try to take some pics while we finish up his box project that we're doing together. It will be awhile though. My wife had knee replacement surgery just a week ago, so I can't get into the shop much right now. I'm the chief cook and bottle washer. My router skills aren't getting any better, but I'm getting pretty good at housekeeping! Right now I'm doing all my woodworking with you folks on the computer between "assignments". I will try to post a picture of it and my experience with it when I get a chance.

*BJ*
I really like that little horizontal table. It cuts tenons and mortises very well and is very useful for everyday routing too. The problem is that my shop is so crowded with machines, benches and tools that I have to store it on the floor under a bench and it is a little heavy to lift around. I'm sure your son must be getting a lot of use out of his. I'm not sure I will really need it any longer. I've made a nice high auxiliary fence (7") with a sliding fence for my big table, which I hope can be used for tenons. I made the fence from a tip on FWW's website. It was made to do lock miter end-grain joints, but I think it will also be great for routing tenons.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

" The problem is that my shop is so crowded with machines "

Me Too, that's why I made the one below  , you can run out of room in the home shop real quick..
http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/9782-best-both-worlds.html

============


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## rbcpastor (Feb 23, 2010)

Harry, I am planning an add on to my Table saw. noticed you had an upgraded fence on yours. What fence is that on your saw?


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## aivenyy (Feb 23, 2010)

That's great!


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## MuzzleMike (Feb 23, 2010)

There are allot of great tables and all of you should brag . They are nice . The only thing I can brag about is mine was free to make . It was made it if an old portable table saw and some left over counter top some one was throwing out . The only thing I paid for was the router and the power strip that I put on it . It works for me .


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

MuzzleMike said:


> There are allot of great tables and all of you should brag . They are nice . The only thing I can brag about is mine was free to make . It was made it if an old portable table saw and some left over counter top some one was throwing out . The only thing I paid for was the router and the power strip that I put on it . It works for me .


Your table looks a lot nicer than the one I used for many years. Its a nice size and the countertop should provide a very smooth surface to work on.
I like the fence height too!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Mike...

as long as it works for you brother, its all good!!!!!

where at in w Pa?


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## MuzzleMike (Feb 23, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Mike...
> 
> as long as it works for you brother, its all good!!!!!
> 
> where at in w Pa?


I still have to get some T track for it but it still dose the job . I live in Sharon . That is about half way between Pitt. and Erie and right on the Ohio line .


Mike


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Guess I should post mine before I make my new one.


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Jim, I have the Jet fence and sliding table, love them both. I thought the price was fair! Only thing I would change, would be getting the micro adjustment. 
Harry


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## mercantile man (Mar 1, 2010)

Harry this is a phenominal table. My shop will be so happy with me when I built it one.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> My son one day said I need a router table, I pulled it off the back side of the sewing machine cabinet router table and mounted to a cabinet and he took it home for his standard router table  I think he is still using it.
> 
> =====


I need a horizontal router table too, Dad.. may I.....


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> Guess I should post mine before I make my new one.


Chris... I really like that long infeed table. I wish I had the space...


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Wanted to thank all you that have posted here. I had no idea it would draw so much attention, when I started it. Sorry I haven't been online much lately, due to have another back surgery Apr 13th. Been getting things in order, just in CASE!! Dr. tells me this is the last one he will do. If it don't work then I have to have disk replacement and fusion. Hope that you guys will remember me in yours prayers. I believe that does help!
Harry


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Harry you are in our good thoughts! Wishing you all the best with your surgery.


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## gregmw (Oct 30, 2009)

Good luck and best wishes Harry.

Regards

Greg


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Good luck Harry. My dad had ALIF done last year and he's almost fully recovered.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

My prayers are with you, Harry...


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## r32 (Feb 19, 2010)

Good luck Harry. My mom had back surgery for a pinched spinal. The doc went in and bored out a few vertebra and she came back strong. I'm sure you do fine.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Good luck, Harry!

Look forward to having you back on the forums afterwards!

Cassandra


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Get well soon!!!

We are all pulling for you.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

God be with you Harry, and you are in our prayers.


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## tom819800 (Apr 9, 2010)

Wow those are some sweet tables..... I too intend to make my own, But Im going to have to start with the base and add the drawers later......I intend on making this forum a part of my weekly internet viewing...... Nice to meet everyone ...


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

tom819800 said:


> Wow those are some sweet tables..... I too intend to make my own, But Im going to have to start with the base and add the drawers later......I intend on making this forum a part of my weekly internet viewing...... Nice to meet everyone ...


Welcome to the forum. Lots of gifted people on this site. I am sure that this site will be a vaulable resource for you. I can always learn something from someone on this site.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

bigdogmedia66 said:


> Here's mine that I finished a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> TS/RT combo


That is a great design. Great use of space. I would like to build something similar but have wrestled with the idea of a new saw, as well.

Thanks for posting some photos. I like it.


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## jasstack (Apr 26, 2010)

Hi Harry,

I've revised my design a couple of times and I think this is my favorite. I built my own lift, based on some others that I have seen. I like mine because I can raise the top and quickly change cutters without ever removing the router.

If you're interested, the plans are available as a free download, complete with step-by-step photos, captions and technical drawings. Go to Popular Woodworking's website, click on projects, then click on shop, then scroll down until you see "click here for complete plans" pdf. It's called the deluxe router table.

I welcome any suggestions as to how it can be improved, altered or whatever.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This quickly made auxiliary table made by a friend of mine who needed a second table in a hurry, is very basic, but look at the height adjustment that he tells me gives a very fine adjustment.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Harry that one's hard to beat!


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

CanuckGal said:


> Harry that one's hard to beat!


I particularly like the scissor jack attachment. Is that a Ryobi option?:jester:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

That jack should come in handy when you need to change a handle (tire) .

========



harrysin said:


> This quickly made auxiliary table made by a friend of mine who needed a second table in a hurry, is very basic, but look at the height adjustment that he tells me gives a very fine adjustment.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

timbertailor said:


> I particularly like the scissor jack attachment. Is that a Ryobi option?:jester:


You jest of course Brad. I suspect that my friend John may well have traded-in a car minus it's jack!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"That jack should come in handy when you need to change a handle (tire) ."

It would take too long to unbolt Bob! In any case he doesn't carry the table around on his roof rack!


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

If I ever get to work on my own projects again, I'll finish up the new table. Just need to sort out the drawers.

Had to put in new steps for the in-laws.


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## JeffMartin (Jan 16, 2010)

Super Impressive guys. I'm about to purchase a top, fence and 3 1/4 HP router, so it's great to see what is possible - even if I have no idea how to use any of them!

Jeff


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## lpierce65 (Nov 10, 2008)

*New Yankee Table*

Anyone build the New Yankee Workshop Table/cabnet that Norm Build and sold plans and video of.. Good ??? Pros or Cons ???

Larry Pierce


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Jeffrey.. there's lots to learn here!!

Larry... if you go through the pictures in this thread you'll see many aspects of Norm's table in various tables. I don't know for sure if it's been copied exactly... it's so easy to customize your own!


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Hello Larry. Welcome to the RouterForums. Glad to have you participate in our forums.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

My table mounted router was designed to save space in my limited size workshop. It has been proven to be an excellent design for my needs and I’m very happy with it. More info can be found in my gallery


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## jimini2001 (Mar 28, 2010)

If a man couldn't get some ideas here he just has no imagination. My wife is going to be really angry at you guys.


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## jaroot (Nov 24, 2009)

I'd post pics of mine, but it is just a $30 Crapsman with a no-horse trim router attached to it.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

> I'd post pics of mine, but it is just a $30 Crapsman with a no-horse trim router attached to it.


If it works for you Jim that's ALL that matters.  Size is only important in shoes.


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## 2lou (Apr 1, 2010)

duane867

nice table. How did you do the top. Looks Good

Lou


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

2lou said:


> duane867
> 
> nice table. How did you do the top. Looks Good
> 
> Lou




Are you referring to my table Lou?


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## Trumanthedog (May 11, 2010)

Man that table is awesome, very inspiring.


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## 2lou (Apr 1, 2010)

yes the table top

lou


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

2lou said:


> yes the table top
> 
> lou


If you look in my gallery Lou, you will see a lot of info about my table top which I re build early last year. The info includes the aluminum fence and tracks.

Basically the top is made out of two pieces of MDF (1/2” thick each) glued together and fastened to the Delta table saw top with removable bolts for easy handling. The grooves on the top are done with my router. The finish is a stain colour followed by 2 coats of clear varnish. The top can be done to any size to suite your needs. The aluminum fence is much more difficult to make and I spent a winter trying to figure out all the details but it was a project I really enjoyed very much and the results were very satisfying.

If you need more details let me know.


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## richjsn (Dec 27, 2009)

Wow all the pictures and no one shows the cast iron benchdog. Well putting it together this weekend. But it will be just bare frame, cast iron top, and triton router.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Rich Johnson said:


> Wow all the pictures and no one shows the cast iron benchdog. Well putting it together this weekend. But it will be just bare frame, cast iron top, and triton router.



You will find that many prefer to build their own to suit their own needs. Many have several as for their needs have changed.


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## 2lou (Apr 1, 2010)

Sorry but I guess I am too much of a rookie on this site but I can't find your gallery you spoke of. How about a hint on how to find it.

Lou


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

2lou said:


> Sorry but I guess I am too much of a rookie on this site but I can't find your gallery you spoke of. How about a hint on how to find it.
> 
> Lou




Look on the left side of the screen, under my name kolias, second line from the bottom, it says 

*“View kolia’s Uploads”*

Click with your mouse there and you will see all the pages of my uploads. Page 18 and 19 have some description of the table saw.


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## garybaritone (Feb 21, 2009)

Rich Johnson

Look in my gallery and you will see a cast iron Bench Dog top on a NYW type cabinet and also a Bench Dog cast iron table saw extension both with Bench Dog pro lifts. The mass on cast iron does wonders in damping vibration.


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## garybaritone (Feb 21, 2009)

For clarification, the table with the blue cabinet has the cast iron top and the table with the green cabinet is an older commercial MDF and formica top.


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Here's my first table:


























Put together at a cost of less than 50€, the top is back to back 19mm MDF (2,50€ from the scrap bin, a similar piece of BB Multiplex ply is 29€) edged with Beech skirting board and the cabinet is elcheapo laminated chip board.

The Insert plate is right in the centre because that's where I wanted it and the fence is where I want it.


















The insert plate is from two pieces of 3mm aluminium plate laser cut with spare inserts - cost 9€.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Hi,
That is my table with dust and micro-collection ajustement of fence left and right

Cheers
Daniel


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Titus A Duxass said:


> Here's my first table:
> Put together at a cost of less than 50€, the top is back to back 19mm MDF (2,50€ from the scrap bin, a similar piece of BB Multiplex ply is 29€) edged with Beech skirting board and the cabinet is elcheapo laminated chip board.
> 
> The Insert plate is right in the centre because that's where I wanted it and the fence is where I want it.
> ...


I really like the height of it.

Thanks for posting photos.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Santé said:


> Hi,
> That is my table with dust and micro-collection ajustement of fence left and right
> 
> Cheers
> Daniel


I really like all the custom work. Looks like you built every inch of her.

Do all the holes help with dust collection?


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

timbertailor said:


> I really like all the custom work. Looks like you built every inch of her.
> 
> Do all the holes help with dust collection?


No, It Is not for dust collection, it is for the purpose of cooling the motor. The motor fan pull the air from the bottom to the top; it is why a dust collection at the bottom is not a good idea. The dust collection of my table is made by the top, only a little at the left of the bit (when dado making)

Cheers
Santé


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## farrout (Sep 28, 2009)

I needed to come up with a plan for a table that would not take any floor space due to the limited space available in my shop.

This is what I came up with









The top is made of double thick 3/4" MDF with Formica glued on.
The edges are 1x2.

Complete information at Router Table


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## BearLeeAlive (Mar 22, 2010)

Love the funky laminate choice, Dennis.


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## farrout (Sep 28, 2009)

BearLeeAlive said:


> Love the funky laminate choice, Dennis.


Thanks, it's actually some scrap I found for free. Good price.


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## TanOak (May 31, 2010)

Here is my restored 1957 Unisaw with additional tables and router plates. On the left of the main table is a NuCraft cast iron router table. On the right of the main table is an additional Unisaw table top with a shop built aluminum router plate made to fit the throat opening. This required modifying the router base but it wasn't hard. This set up gives me a lot of real estate for table saw operations and two choices for router set ups. Not shown is an original Incra Positioning system with maple fence. 









Even more important to my style of woodworking is this shop built mortising table. It is currently under revision to adapt the vertical travel mechanism salvaged from a drum sander. I guess if I use the existing motor with a chuck it won't really be a "router table". Its made with an X-Y table that slides on linear ball bearings and an old table saw top. The saw top has T-slots that facilitate hold down clamps. 








Cheers,
Jim


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Hello all,
I can't believe this thread is still going. At least some good has come of it! Glad everyone is enjoying it. Unfortunately my son has had to close his shop and is about 95% disabled. Shame for someone so young (47) who loved woodworking so much! All part of the greater plan I supposed. 
I’m slowly recovering from my surgery; hope to get back into my shop in a few months. Family and doctors think I should sell it off, but not yet. Time will tell. Didn’t mean to dump on you guys, just want to explain why I hadn’t been around. Good luck and thanks for keeping this thread alive.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Old_Chipper said:


> Hello all,
> I can't believe this thread is still going. At least some good has come of it! Glad everyone is enjoying it. Unfortunately my son has had to close his shop and is about 95% disabled. Shame for someone so young (47) who loved woodworking so much! All part of the greater plan I supposed.
> I’m slowly recovering from my surgery; hope to get back into my shop in a few months. Family and doctors think I should sell it off, but not yet. Time will tell. Didn’t mean to dump on you guys, just want to explain why I hadn’t been around. Good luck and thanks for keeping this thread alive.


Good to hear from you anytime Harry. Sorry to hear about your sons condition but glad you are coming back


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## novice wood guy (Jun 30, 2010)

nice job on the use of space and set up. I have a similar set up on my Delta Contractor's saw. Main variations are dust collection below the TS trunion, cabinet undere the main side table with a set of drawers for TS stuff (tape measure caliper etc) dust collection under the router with a fence pick up connection, three drawer unit facing the end of the table where the router is mounted, for router stuff, bits, wrenches etc. Mine also has a out table extention to protect the motor when I "park it againist the wall and a flip up out feed table/work table. I am also in the process of adding a side table to the left of the top, fold down to give me a bit more stability when ripping 4x8 sheets by myself. 

When I designed mine, I have a few restrictions. 
1. the footprint of the table from the factory (Delta contracotors saw with 32" unifence) could not grow. 
2. It has to include a reasonable dust collection system since my "shop" is an attahced garage.
3. it had to have drawers for all that stuff you want at hand, but always vibrates off a shelf during a routing or table saw operation
4. it has to double as a work bench, space being an issue.
5. I had to be able to rip 4x8 plywood by myself.

My first go round of this setup was sloppy, poorly thought out and quickly put together, how bad could it have been? Wish I has listened to a friend who told me to look at other set ups, take ideas and suggestions and make my own design. But it took 2 years before I had turned enough perfectly good wood into saw dust, that I stop building anything until my saw, router table was complete.

I would be happy to post pics, but am a newbie, so have to post 10 times before I can. I will be back to you.
Thanks for posting pics of your setup.
Mikie


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

novice wood guy said:


> nice job on the use of space and set up. I have a similar set up on my Delta Contractor's saw. Main variations are dust collection below the TS trunion, cabinet undere the main side table with a set of drawers for TS stuff (tape measure caliper etc) dust collection under the router with a fence pick up connection, three drawer unit facing the end of the table where the router is mounted, for router stuff, bits, wrenches etc. Mine also has a out table extention to protect the motor when I "park it againist the wall and a flip up out feed table/work table. I am also in the process of adding a side table to the left of the top, fold down to give me a bit more stability when ripping 4x8 sheets by myself.
> 
> When I designed mine, I have a few restrictions.
> 1. the footprint of the table from the factory (Delta contracotors saw with 32" unifence) could not grow.
> ...


Welcome and thanks for the input.

Can't wait to see some photos of your table.

I am confident you will hit your 10 required entries pretty quick.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

novice wood guy said:


> I would be happy to post pics, but am a newbie, so have to post 10 times before I can. I will be back to you.
> Thanks for posting pics of your setup.
> Mikie


Hi Mike - Glad to see you being active in the forum. :yes4: If it makes you feel any better, Your not alone trying to reinvent the wheel:wacko:
FYI, I think the 10 post rule applies to links, not pics.
Welcome to the forum


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## novice wood guy (Jun 30, 2010)

*pics of mine in progress - feel free to offer advice*

I finally broke out the camera and took a few of my ts/router table combo. Please note it is a work in progress, so I am looking for feedback of items issues and neat to have jigs tricks etc.

A quick back of my router table, the original table extention came with a plastic, yes I said plastic, router insert. I picked my saw up used, and the insert worked "okay" for my Bosch but when I upgrade to dedicated router, very heavy PC, it made the the plate sage. So I went in search of a router plate, the opening was 12 1/2 by 10 1/2. No such size on the market without cutting my own.

So I went to Craiglistr found a used Rockler with plate (needed drilling for my router) and pick up a heavy duty fence since the one that came with the table was homemade and attached to the back of my ts fence. The original config had so much slop in the fence, plate opening and the flex of the plate frustrated me to the point, what ever I need to do, I did on the ts.

I rebuilt the homemade fence (stained it for practice and fun), added the new router table to the side table, added the dust bucket, causing me to have alter the cabinet my set up rides around on, a whole nother story.

While I was into rebuilding I remade the extention out feed and folding out since the former version was done in a day, made from an old desk top (Ikea quality) and showed it was poorly planned and excuted.

before I tell you what I think of the router table set up (yes I have issues with it) I would like to hear any feedback from those of you who have used a router more than I. Remember I have stayed away from my router and table because of the slop in all the components until last Saturday. A Buddy of mine took it for a test drive using the homemade fence. No slop, but some concerns about the table.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Looks like a great use of space and very portable around the garage floor.

I keep telling myself to build something similar but I use the excuse I am going to get a new cabinet saw and it would only be replaced.


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## mwusmma (Jul 6, 2010)

Very nice Harry


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## galerdude (Jul 7, 2010)

*Table Saw Extension*

Here's what I got so far. RTD 'scratch n dent" TS extension on a Ridgid 3650. Waiting on a Bosch 1617 evspk to arrive and mount that to the table.


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## Chuck-grmi (May 18, 2010)

novice wood guy said:


> I finally broke out the camera and took a few of my ts/router table combo.
> I rebuilt the homemade fence (stained it for practice and fun), added the new router table to the side table, added the dust bucket, causing me to have alter the cabinet my set up rides around on, a whole nother story.
> 
> While I was into rebuilding I remade the extention out feed and folding out since the former version was done in a day, made from an old desk top (Ikea quality) and showed it was poorly planned and excuted.


WOW!!!

That is a nice looking setup. I really like that outfeed table idea












...And



galerdude said:


> Here's what I got so far. RTD 'scratch n dent" TS extension on a Ridgid 3650. Waiting on a Bosch 1617 evspk to arrive and mount that to the table.


I like that setup too. Love "scratch n dent".


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## beeg_dawg (Apr 14, 2009)

*Wow.*



bigdogmedia66 said:


> Here's mine that I finished a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> 
> One dawg to another, that is a ^&%$ nice table. I'm nearing completion on mine, but suddenly I have the urge to start over.
> ...


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## Kral (Sep 30, 2009)

*Table Features Dust Collection*

A little explanation might be in order:
Top side collected dust is routed (no pun intended) through a tapered duct in the fence to a hole in the top, where it drops down to the top chamber that encloses the router. There it joins the dust expelled from the bottom of the bit. The bottom chamber collects the combined dust and routes it out the back. Holes in the top chamber door are for "makeup air" to ensure adequate air flow. The holes in the back serve the same function. I sized the hole in the top so that its cross sectional area is 1/2 the area of the 4" hose. Similarly, the total area of the "makeup air" holes also equals 1/2 the area of the 4" hose. This was intended to be a starting point, but it worked out well , so I didn't change anything.
.
The top is two layers of 3/4" MDF covered with Formica. The cabinet is 3/4" solid oak and oak plywood.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Howdy Jon.. welcome to the community!!

Great job on your table!!! 

Is the cabinet all dado construction?


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Jon:

Welcome to the forums! Great looking table you have there!

Question: how good is the suction pressure at the fence dust collection port? By limiting the make-up hole area to half the 4" hose area, you create a partial vacuum. Do you find it adequate for the fence's dust collection?

Cassandra


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## Kral (Sep 30, 2009)

Thanks for the kind words! The face frame uses biscuit joinery. The rest of the cabinet is dado construction. The oak trim on the table itself is fastened to the MDF with biscuits. The walnut splines on the oak trim are functional, but not really necessary. They're mostly for looks.


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## Chuck-grmi (May 18, 2010)

KralNoj said:


> .
> The top is two layers of 3/4" MDF covered with Formica. The cabinet is 3/4" solid oak and oak plywood.


From one Grand Rapidian to another

That is one beautiful Table


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## Kral (Sep 30, 2009)

*Make-Up Air Restriction*



Cassandra said:


> Hi Jon:
> 
> Welcome to the forums! Great looking table you have there!
> 
> ...


Good question! There is a trade off between pressure (vacuum) and air velocity. I wanted the velocity of air flow through the make-up holes to be fairly high so that the dust would be swept toward the collection port in the center of the chamber, rather than being collected in the corners. Also, much of my routing is done with large diameter bits. As a result, there is fairly large cross-sectional opening in the fence with these bits. I wanted to have a reasonably high vacuum with the resultant high air velocity at the fence opening. Of course the distribution of pressure between the fence opening and the make-up air holes varies as the fence opening is changed. Does this sound like an explanation, or an excuse  So far, it looks like I have a resonable compromise. This is a work in progress, so I might end up increasing the number of make-up air holes. Thanks for the reply.


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## Kral (Sep 30, 2009)

Thanks for the kind words, Chuck!


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## beeg_dawg (Apr 14, 2009)

*Another table.....*

Well, this thread has gone on long enough I get to post pics of my table.....
Delta Contractors saw with Rockler router table. Soft close drawers, drawer pulls hogged out of a piece of clear piece of Doug fir.

Maple plywood, Oak trim. I've already decided to make doors for the Router end open storage. Dust collection works OK, although my guess is about 25% of the saw dust falls into the bin below the saw rather than getting sucked out of the dust port.

Center large door is an access port to clean out below the saw. Held in place by door magnets.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

:sold: That is awesome!


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Great looking piece of work beeg dawg.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Now thats the way to go with a contractors saw!! Excellent job Dawg! Looks to function, thats the ticket!

If I may...thats a pretty good span between casters...keep an eye out for that rig to want to start to go belly down..

again.. excellent effort..
bill


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hello Beeg Dawg,

thats a great looking table. job well done my friend!

p.s. i wouldn't worry about the distance between the casters and support. after looking at your design and the panels between the drawers, its easy to see what you have is a torsion box product and seems to be able to withstand any downward force.

great job and keep up the good work!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

okey doke.....


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## beeg_dawg (Apr 14, 2009)

Thanks guys.

Twoskies - I will watch for sagging, but I'm confident it will not be a problem. The vertical panels are set in dadoes top back and bottom, glued and pinned with step dowels. The left side has a hidden vertical support and the horizontal piece between the middle drawer and the dust bin is set in dadoes cut in the two vertical separators in the middle and the back.

If this sags, I will be surprised. Doesn't mean I won't keep an eye on it.


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## hhqnz04 (Jul 3, 2010)

Harry, your table is fine. i like it very much!
hehe


------------------
Huahai wood industry -- Chinese Premium manufacturer of plywood, blockboard, film face board, MDF, HPL and other building materials, with high quality and competitive price!
Any questions, pls feel free to contact me!

Contact: Howard Wang 
URL: Howard Wang | Facebook
E-mail: [email protected]


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## whitelantern (Jul 25, 2010)

Welded stand


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Christer does that flip up extension slide? That is a GREAT table!


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## whitelantern (Jul 25, 2010)

CanuckGal said:


> Christer does that flip up extension slide? That is a GREAT table!


Yes it can be fliped up and sided from side to side, and fast removed if it is not wonted..


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## novice wood guy (Jun 30, 2010)

*like the set up*

BEE DAWG, own the same saw and would like to see the back of your cabinet/table. Do you have some type of duct collection for the table saw set up on this. My saw (used) came with an attached cabinet, which I have since modified, but and not really liking the set up too much, so I was very impressed by yours. Might start over and just scrap out the exisitng. Can post a couple more pics from different angles?

Nice job!



beeg_dawg said:


> Well, this thread has gone on long enough I get to post pics of my table.....
> Delta Contractors saw with Rockler router table. Soft close drawers, drawer pulls hogged out of a piece of clear piece of Doug fir.
> 
> Maple plywood, Oak trim. I've already decided to make doors for the Router end open storage. Dust collection works OK, although my guess is about 25% of the saw dust falls into the bin below the saw rather than getting sucked out of the dust port.
> ...


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## beeg_dawg (Apr 14, 2009)

*For Novice Wood Guy*



novice wood guy said:


> BEE DAWG, own the same saw and would like to see the back of your cabinet/table. Do you have some type of duct collection for the table saw set up on this. My saw (used) came with an attached cabinet, which I have since modified, but and not really liking the set up too much, so I was very impressed by yours. Might start over and just scrap out the exisitng. Can post a couple more pics from different angles?
> 
> Nice job!



NWG - The dust "bucket" slides in on two Masonite strips. It does a decent job of dust collection with the dust collector connected. Sawdust collects in the bin, with a little filtering to the sealed area under the saw. 

Let me know if you need more info.


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## Capstone (Jan 6, 2009)

*Not so quick drill press mounted router table*

What would take some of you guys 20 min to do took me about 2 hrs. I'm new to woodworking and this was my first time using a router. Started rounding off the edges of an outdoor playset I'm building and quickly realized it should be easier on a router table. 

Piece of scrap, a few holes drilled, and attached it to my drill press table. Worked like a charm. Need to add a fence and shroud for better dust control/safety. Press is still useable with the table mounted and the chuck can be used to clamp the vac hose down. At the least I don't look like I've been tarred and sawdusted like I did when using it free hand.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Very innovative idea! I have seen many example of folks putting a router extension on a table saw, but this is the first I have seen on a drill press. My one thought is you may want to add some sort of additional support to keep your table flat and to reduce vibration.


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## jetpilot (Jul 7, 2010)

Hello Harry in TX: I see your post about 22 yrs in USAF. I'M a TEXAN born and bred , back in TX (25YRS) after serving 32 yrs in the GREAT USAF. Now I'm in ANDERSON county, Palestine. Please post your location.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Michael:

Wonderful idea!

Simplicity in design.

A nice feature is the wide-range adjustable height of the router table top. Another nice feature is a tilting top.

Well done!

Cassandra


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## Mark Sternberg (Jan 16, 2010)

I have to say I am blown away by some of the router tables you guys have put together. Now I am going to have to redo mine this winter. 
I had some nice equipment at one time. Then a little over 7 years ago life threw me a curve and I fell off a ladder and broke my back. I literally lost everything I had including my shop equipment. 
After getting better I started slowly putting my life back together and getting some new used equipment, mostly bargains from craigs list and auctions.
I picked up a Ryobi 3 hp plunge router for $30 but I didn't have a table yet. So one day I get a call and someone wanted me to put up a solid core door and and they wanted a large window cut into it about 22" by 48". So you probably see where I am going with this. Long story short I built this heavy duty table and have been using it for 3 years now. It is a little Neanderthal compared to some of the ones on here but it has served it's purpose and works well for what I do. Hopefully I will be inspired enough to build nice one this winter along with all the other inspirations I have.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Mark beauty is in the eye of the beholder as they say. Functionality outweighs looks everytime when it comes to tools. Your "Little Neanderthal" is a true workhorse!


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

jetpilot said:


> Hello Harry in TX: I see your post about 22 yrs in USAF. I'M a TEXAN born and bred , back in TX (25YRS) after serving 32 yrs in the GREAT USAF. Now I'm in ANDERSON county, Palestine. Please post your location.


I'm near San Antonio, TX
I can't believe this thread is still going!!! The number of times it has been viewed is un-real!! Sorry I haven’t been around much! Been downsizing, selling off some of my bigger machines and stuff I’m not able use anymore. We spend a lifetime gathering up our ‘man toys’ only to have to get rid of them!
Only thing I’ve did lately was make this little Family Bible case for my niece!
Cheers all!!
Harry


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

I can feel Your Pain! I am 64, and damaged My back at work about 10 years ago
I am to the point that My grand children have helped Me get down to My shop! I have to be careful with My fingers, that I dont cut them off.All the meds make me slow, but I am going to do my best no matter


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## novice wood guy (Jun 30, 2010)

Bee Dawg, Love the table, much better than mine. I am going to shamelessly "borrow" some of the design elements, okay almost all of them. The dust collection looks pretty slick for a contractors saw, the only addition I am going to mke is add some Lexan panels in the back that drop the dust into the chute rather than out the back. Still thinking of best way to attach them without creating a nightmare when I true up the saw. I will post pictures when I am done, so you can see how you inspired me to make something more useful and better looking.

Thanks again for the pictures and walk through, it turned out great!


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

That is one neat table, old Chipper, Very nice with room to spare?


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## RJ2 (Sep 1, 2007)

*new fence system for inverted router*

Took a computer component rack apart, they are built with about 75 ft of double t-track . Made tables for the drill presses and fence system for the onsruds. I swing the arms out of the way and utilize the onsruds for many different operations now after welding in a height level adjustment on the foot pedals . Also put a track on the bandsaw deck for do circle jigs and back fence for the powermatic mortice mch. made my own knobs , also put linear screw shaft motors on the drill press tables to raise and lower by buttons. Cheap and effective way to get more out of the tools I have .


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## RJ2 (Sep 1, 2007)

*pictures did not come up on post*

I will try again, looks like a go


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

*May as well join the fun*

Here are some pictures of a router table I started on over a year ago and had to stop. I had completed the cabinet and the top with the exception of applying the laminate. The top is two pieces of 3/4" MDF glued together. Everything is built from scraps besides the top and the wheels. The face frame is 2X4's ripped and put together with pocket screws. The cabinet itself is scrap plywood, and let me tell you it was not easy working with since it is not cabinet grade and had some waves in it. It did not turn out exactly square, but not bad for my first cabinet.

I finally got started again, and put the wheel on and applied the laminate. I figure I would take some in process pictures. I do not have an insert yet, but I do have my eye on the Rockler Lift FX. Comments welcome and appreciated. :yes4:

I am going to trim the edges with oak. I wanted to wait until I completed the cut out for the insert, but I'm not sure when I will be able to get it, so I am going go ahead with the trim and hope I don't mess up on the cut out for the insert. For the trim, would you just glue it, or glue and screw it. How about some biscuits? Do you think there necessary? 

For the fence, I wanted something fancy, but ignorance is bliss, so I think I will settle for a jointed and planed 2X4 and clamps for now. After reading the long post on the best router fence, I was perplexed to say the least.

I am going to put doors on the lower half and the router compartment, and I am not sure what I will do with the two compartments on the top left. I may put drawers, or a may put a door and sliding trays. Either way, all those will wait until the table is finished so I can use it to make the doors and drawers.

Darrin


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

> I am not sure what I will do with the two compartments on the top left.


What I meant to say was top right. I would have edited the post, but I did not see an option for that.

Darrin


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Welcome, Darrin... and good to see you're back with it...I haven't used the rockler setup, so cannot comment.


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

How about attaching the oak trim to the table? Any suggestion for that?

Thanks!

Darrin


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Darrin

Looking good but I will suggest using the HF plate because your router will be on the far left of your top..you may need to cut the plate down or turn it at 90 deg. to get the router in the center of the hole below the plate...

Router Table Plate

Holes on the top right side, a great place for some pull out drawers, for items that you will use all the time, wrenches,etc. and some router bits in the 2nd drawer, but not just a pull out board for the bits to sit in a real drawer, the more you do the more bits you will want to have in that place..

Trim
Glue and biscuits will do the job fine you don't need the nasty looking screws on the trim work..

Fence

You will need to make one to fit your top, for the router on the far to the left side of the top, I will suggest a swing fence out of some MDF stock, but make it the long type so you can clamp it to the out sides edges of the top when you need to..but the swing fence will do the job 90% of the time..


============


darrink said:


> Here are some pictures of a router table I started on over a year ago and had to stop. I had completed the cabinet and the top with the exception of applying the laminate. The top is two pieces of 3/4" MDF glued together. Everything is built from scraps besides the top and the wheels. The face frame is 2X4's ripped and put together with pocket screws. The cabinet itself is scrap plywood, and let me tell you it was not easy working with since it is not cabinet grade and had some waves in it. It did not turn out exactly square, but not bad for my first cabinet.
> 
> I finally got started again, and put the wheel on and applied the laminate. I figure I would take some in process pictures. I do not have an insert yet, but I do have my eye on the Rockler Lift FX. Comments welcome and appreciated. :yes4:
> 
> ...


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

Thanks for the input Bob! I think I will go with drawers as you suggested, and not just the trays. Probably no drawer fronts, but a door to cover both openings.

For the fence that's what I had in mind, a swing style that would just clamp on both ends.

For the plate, how much room do I need below the table? The HF and the Lift FX are close to the same size, with the HF one being slightly larger. The opening below the table where the router will go is 16 1/4" wide and 19" deep.

For trim, I agree on not having the screws, so biscuits and glue it is.

Thanks!

Darrin


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

I would suggest no doors,,the drawer fronts will dress it up  something like a 1/2" over lay on the drawer fronts...

When you use the table the doors will always be open the norm I would suggest 4 nice drawers with fronts and no door over the router port hole box, once you get a Vac.system than you can add a door over it but they are in the way most of the time  and coke off the air supply to the router most of the time..:dance3:but it's going to be a nice router station..

==========




darrink said:


> Thanks for the input Bob! I think I will go with drawers as you suggested, and not just the trays. Probably no drawer fronts, but a door to cover both openings.
> 
> For the fence that's what I had in mind, a swing style that would just clamp on both ends.
> 
> ...


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## Shepherduke (Apr 30, 2010)

Darrink, I found your router table to be just the design I need. Is there any chance that you could give us a few dimensions to go with the pictures? Thanks, Shepherduke


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

Kevin,
Sure I can post some dimensions. I will get them later on today and post them.

The cabinet itself is 38" tall, and the height to the top of the table is 39 5/8".

If I can find the thread that I got the general design idea from, I will post it also. If I remember correctly, it was on this sight.

Thanks!

Thanks!


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

Kevin,
Here are some pictures with the dimensions. Let me know if I missed anything, or if you need more details. 

The cabinet is made of 5/8" plywood, and the face frame is made from 2X4's ripped to 3/4" thickness.

Thanks!


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## Shepherduke (Apr 30, 2010)

Darrin, Thanks very much for the added details, they are just what I wanted. I hope you get many happy hours out of your table! Regards, kevin.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Here are a few shots of my table. The table is a work-in-progress – lots of work yet to be done on it.

*Photo 1:* In this photo, please note the following:
Dust collection connection at the left end.
Switch left of centre. (Second one exists on opposite side.)
Lift in the middle (discussed in another thread.)
Clean top design – just the MagnaLock Ring insert – no insert plate, no t-track and no mitre track.
1/4"-20 inserts around edge of top, to mount accessories, such as t-track or mitre track.

*Photo 2:* Plans call for a set of drawers in the right pedestal and a couple of doors on the left pedestal.

*Photo 3:* The small L-brackets in the upper corners of the pedestals provide support for the alignment bolts in the top’s brace members. These allow one to make the top square, on two axis, to the router axis. In this photo, one can see the dust collection elbow on the left end. One of the channels in the brace attached to bottom of the top has been closed in to form a dust chute from the space below the MagnaLock Ring (see photos 1 and 2) to the dust collection elbow.

*Photo 4:* This shot shows the dust collection port on the outfeed side of the table. 

*Specifications:*

*Top:* 24”x48”, top surface 36” above the floor; two layers of 3/4" MDF, 1-1/2”x1-1/2” red oak edging, laminated top and bottom; 1”x3” maple brace on the bottom of the top

*Carcase:* base is two layers of 3/4" BB plywood; pedestals are made 3/4" BB plywood; undersized wheels (2”) to be replaced 

Cassandra


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## canoeman42 (Nov 8, 2008)

*Router table from new poster*

Hello guys, my name is Bill and this is my first post.

I have a "gentleman's" shop that I use for fun, and since it is attached directly to the living area, I am careful to collect dust. This system works well and you may find some useful ideas for your shop. I have attached the router table to my Ryobi BT 3000 saw to save space in the shop, and it works very well for the things I do.

One simple idea is to split the end of a 2 1/2" dust collection hose, and wrap it loosely around the open area of the router base, under the table. I did not want a complete seal, just enough to collect the chips and cause an airflow away from the router. This also pulls chips down through the opening for the router bit. It is not 100%, but it gets almost all of the chips that normally fall into the box housing the router. I wanted some airflow by the router to help keep it cool.

The second idea is to collect the topside chips through end of the fence rather than have a hose coming out the back side. Everything inside the fence (box) has been designed to aid airflow, and that design also works very well. It has never had any buildup inside. It feeds into a 2 1/2" hose which has been split from the main 4" feed.

The main 4" feed Y's the fence hose off, then continues to a plenum chamber that allows me to switch between the saw and the router box. At one time I took both 2 1/2" feeds off the plenum chamber, but now I just do the one.

The router fence clamps to the saw fence and is fully adjustable. The table top is separate from the box and has leveling screws in it.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Nice setup, Bill.. and nice job of closing in the underbase to utilize the space. I need to do that with my TS.


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Bill,
I really like your Fence Extractor system.
I think I'll copying it in the near future.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings and welcome to the router forum. Thank you for joining us. Nice looking set up, show more pics of the shop some time. BTW you might concider howdying up (is that a word?) in the Introductions forum, folks will find you there quicker, and get you properly welcomed


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## canoeman42 (Nov 8, 2008)

Titus A Duxass said:


> Bill,
> I really like your Fence Extractor system.
> I think I'll copying it in the near future.


You're welcome to do that. When you get a little closer, send a PM and I can probably send a drawing of what I did and some pictures of the inside. That offer will have to wait a couple months because I am just about to leave for an extended vacation.


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## JeffMartin (Jan 16, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Harry...
> 
> hope your son has as much fun building his, as i did mine...


Hey TwoSkies57, I have been dreaming about building a router table after spending several months researching the project. After seeing yours, I've decided to scrap the whole plan! 
It looks incredible. As a complete novice, please tell me what you do with all of that sophisticated stuff on top - I'm quite serious.
Jeff


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Jeff...thank you for the kind comments. *S*..

A quick answer to your question would be: So far, anything I've asked of it *S* It does everything I want, it does it well, and it does it with a great deal of accuracy. I'm no router/routing expert, and don't pretend to be. There are plenty of guys/gals in here with some amazing skills when it comes to taking advantage of the many things a router can accomplish. 
I just wanted to build what I believed to be a quality router table. 

Now go dig up your plans and start editing and building your table...*S*


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## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

Very nice router table Jon.


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## Aquadan005 (Sep 11, 2010)

*My new table*

This is a design you may recognize from woodsmith. I modified the design a little. The top is hinged for easy access to the router. The router plate and fence were reused from an earlier table I made. The top is 3/4" ply with 2 layers of 1/4" tempered masonite the edges are 3/4" oak and then the top and bottom surfaces are formica. The plate is lexan. The fence I made with 3/4" luan ply and maple for the auxiliary fence faces.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Aquadan005,

Thanks for sharing your design and photos. Lots of good ideas incorporated.


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## mattv (Sep 2, 2010)

*homemade table*

this is my fourth router table attempt.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

mattv,

Now that is some table top space!!!!


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## thealwine (Jun 2, 2010)

Wow!! Thats a great set up!


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## gorgo (Oct 7, 2010)

Some very nice tables


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

*New top*

My old Rockler top seemed too thin for the weight of a BenchDog Pro lift and a PC 7518, so I built a new top. It's two pieces of 3/4" phenolic-surfaced Baltic Birch ply, laminated with contact cement, and hardwood edging. The fence base is 3" x 3" x 3/8" aluminum angle from Online Metals. The split face is 3/4" MDF, sealed with shellac, sanded at 400, and waxed. I made two sets of faces, the 6" high "regular" shown here, and a 12" set for upright panels, etc. Leveling of the lift is accomplished with eight 8-32 set screws in threaded brass inserts (the largest that would fit in the rabbet for the lift), two on either side of each corner, so the weight is distributed. 

I occasionally have to move things around, so I'm continuing to simply mount the top on a large B&D WorkMate (an old model with one-piece legs, now discontinued). There's a piece of aluminum angle screwed to the underside of the top to clamp the top in the WorkMate. Not as nifty as a base cabinet with drawers, but it folds up.


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## DGK (Oct 8, 2010)

Ralph - I like the minimalist/functional approach... it's a very nice and table


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Ralph Barker said:


> Not as nifty as a base cabinet with drawers, but it folds up.


There is a LOT to be said for portability and storagability. Many of us are really pressed for space.

Thanks for sharing your ideas and taking time to post some photos.


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## DGK (Oct 8, 2010)

*As Basic as it Gets*

I finally had time to rip and glue my gifted countertop into a router table, and it turned out quite well. For now I have my old 1.75 HP Skil router mounted onto a router plate made from an old cutting board that is made out of an unidentified white plastic of some sort. The cutting board is 7/16" thick and I can't bend it, so I think it will work out quite well until I can upgrade it at a later date. The table measures 21" W X 47-3/4" D X 1-5/8" H. Next on my to-do list is wrapping the edges in 3/4" oak and building a good fence.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

DGK said:


> I finally had time to rip and glue my gifted countertop into a router table, and it turned out quite well. For now I have my old 1.75 HP Skil router mounted onto a router plate made from an old cutting board that is made out of an unidentified white plastic of some sort. The cutting board is 7/16" thick and I can't bend it, so I think it will work out quite well until I can upgrade it at a later date. The table measures 21" W X 47-3/4" D X 1-5/8" H. Next on my to-do list is wrapping the edges in 3/4" oak and building a good fence.


Nice sized table


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

DGK said:


> I finally had time to rip and glue my gifted countertop.


Now that is a nice size table top. And what a good idea to use the solid material cutting board. Saves money, looks like it is easy to store when not used, and should work just fine.

Thanks for taking time to take and post photos.

Enjoy!


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## DGK (Oct 8, 2010)

Thanks Brad and John... I make a lot of book shelves and cabinet type stuff so I wanted a longish table so I can work with longer pieces of stock a little easier. When I build my shop this spring I will build roll-around cabinet for the top and buy or make a proper plate to go along with a larger router.


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## ocimpean (Oct 28, 2010)

Thanks for sharing your setup pictures. I like the simple ones the most.


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

> Clean top design – just the MagnaLock Ring insert – no insert plate, no t-track and no mitre track


.
.

How do you install that MagnaLock Ring insert? That looks like a nice way to go.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Kelly Rittgers said:


> .
> .
> 
> How do you install that MagnaLock Ring insert? That looks like a nice way to go.


Hi Kelly:

First step was to cut the hole for the router to pass through. This hole was slightly over 3-1/2 inches (to fit my Bosch 1617EVS router.)

Second step was to use one of the MagnaLock ring, a bushing and a straight bit to make template. (1/4" bit with 1/2" bushing)

Third step was to use the template, 1" bushing and a 1/4" bit to route the inset for the MagnaLock ring. The depth of the inset is slightly greater than the thickness of the MagnaLock ring.

Then drill four 5/8" holes through the table top, to receive the magnets and height adjusters.

Prepared four 5/8" diameter x 1/2" long hardwood dowel inserts. Drilled and tapped holes for #6-32 machine screws that hold the magnets.

Glued the inserts into the holes in the table top, making sure that the MagnaLock ring and magnets sit below the surface of the table top. 

After the glue set, installed the magnets and screws. The magnets hold the MagnaLock ring to the top of the screws. Adjusting the screws allows one to make the ring flush with the top. 

I was quite pleased with the ease of this technique.

Cassandra


P.S. Calculations for the bushings and bits.

Make template: long offset = (1/2" bushing + 1/4" bit) / 2 = 3/8"

Cut inset: short offset = (1" bushing - 1/4" bit) / 2 = 3/8"


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Thanks. It is a good looking way to go. I think I will have to study up on it. ps. I like your router table.

Kelly


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Thanks, Kelly!

If you have any questions, feel free to ask them.

Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

By the way, the magnets I used are from Lee Valley Tools. Cupped Magnet Sets - Lee Valley Tools

Cassandra


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Well thank you. It is a nice table. Do you thread and tap wood? Can you get things to do that easily?

I have never made a pattern but I like the idea of your table. The insert stays nice and level with the edge of the table I suppose.

Kelly


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Cassandra said:


> By the way, the magnets I used are from Lee Valley Tools. Cupped Magnet Sets - Lee Valley Tools
> 
> Cassandra


Just another source for rare earth magnets:
K&J Magnetics - Strong Neodymium Magnets, Rare Earth Magnets
They offer more of a variety than the woodworking suppliers usually do.
:lazy2:


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Kelly Rittgers said:


> Well thank you. It is a nice table. Do you thread and tap wood? Can you get things to do that easily?
> 
> I have never made a pattern but I like the idea of your table. The insert stays nice and level with the edge of the table I suppose.
> 
> Kelly


 Hi Kelly:

My father taught me to do the drill-and-tap wood. It's his favourite method of screwing something to wood. I've picked up the technique. Of course, this technique is suitable for hardwoods. Softwoods are not as suited.

Another trick my father taught me is when tapping wood for screws, do the thirds. The first third of the hole is sized to square up the tap; this part of the hole doesn't get tapped. The second and third third of the hole's length is drilled for the tap size. Then one taps only the second third. Screw the screw into the tapped portion and then continue driving the screw all the way. Taps are oversized and the holes they create will hold the screw loosely. By driving the screw into the untapped portion (the third third), the thread will hold the screw tighter. 

And yes, the insert stays level. The occasional tweaking may be necessary, but I would not expect more than twice a year.

Cassandra


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Thanks again. Very helpful.

Kelly


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

You're very welcome, Kelly!

Cassandra


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## Russtyguy (Feb 23, 2008)

I would like to thank you all for you're Ideas I have a few I think good ones of my own now to start a decent router table thanks again


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## phramed (Dec 20, 2010)

very siply, I got a router table @ routertabledepot.com and simply enclosed the bottom for dust collection. After getting a little more experience in what I need/want I plan on making my own....I am too new to post pics and after seeing what as been done....well, I may remain new!!!!!


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hey bob:

Welcome to the Router Forums! Please, don't stay new, settle in and stay a while.

You're following the path that many have followed. The first table is rarely, I believe, the one a routerer will settle on. 

Cassandra


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## phramed (Dec 20, 2010)

Cassandra said:


> Hey bob:
> 
> Welcome to the Router Forums! Please, don't stay new, settle in and stay a while.
> 
> ...


tanks casandra.....and I meant simply!
actually I had another table in connx with my craftsman router. I think the combined cost was about 100 bucks......new! Table was a benchtop and not real good but the little router will stay. I learned some things with it, tho..enuff to dive in about two months ago and st up a shop in my basement right next to my now covered motorcycle!


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## thbarstow (Dec 16, 2010)

Beautiful table. Mine is a stock Rockler Table.


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## thbarstow (Dec 16, 2010)

Very nice. Looks very precise too!
Tim


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

New addition to my table. Very recently I added an Incra 17" LS Positioner Super System to my collection of toys. Already tried the edge jointing technique. Also, did a test run of slot cutting, using the Positioner to do the spacing of the slots. What a treat!! Quick and accurate. 

Cassandra


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Cassandra said:


> New addition to my table. Very recently I added an Incra 17" LS Positioner Super System to my collection of toys. Already tried the edge jointing technique. Also, did a test run of slot cutting, using the Positioner to do the spacing of the slots. What a treat!! Quick and accurate.
> 
> Cassandra



Is that rig cool or what!!!!!!:sold: You're gonna love it Cass!!

Sounds like you may be thinking of mounting yours, as I did mine..here's a few pics,


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Bill:

I have already fallen in love with it! It has so much potential! The videos on YouTube for the LS Positioner sold me. Dovetails, box joints, sliding dovetails, slots, tongue and groove, edge jointing, vertical panel routing, . . . So much easier now!

Thanks for the photos, Bill. I am a bit of a purist. As indicated in other threads, I am of the camp that says minimal penetration of the router table top. No t-track. No mitre track. No starter pin hole. No fence mounting holes or tracks. The only penetration of the top on my router table top is for the router. All accessories either clamp to the table via clamps (as seen in the photo above) or clamp to the table via the 1/4"-20 inserts located in the edging. 

Cassandra


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

You guys/gals are making me jealous! Nice set ups!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Cassandra said:


> Hi Bill:
> 
> I have already fallen in love with it! It has so much potential! The videos on YouTube for the LS Positioner sold me. Dovetails, box joints, sliding dovetails, slots, tongue and groove, edge jointing, vertical panel routing, . . . So much easier now!
> 
> ...



Thats cool Cass. we all go about things a bit differently...Just so long as it does not distract from the enjoyment of the journey


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## Russtyguy (Feb 23, 2008)

Cassandra said:


> New addition to my table. Very recently I added an Incra 17" LS Positioner Super System to my collection of toys. Already tried the edge jointing technique. Also, did a test run of slot cutting, using the Positioner to do the spacing of the slots. What a treat!! Quick and accurate.
> 
> Cassandra


Hi Cassandra 
Thanks for shareing I appreciat hearing from you you're addition is something else for me to think about is it worth my expence etc. Just getting under way and already looking forward to improvements so Thanks again Russ


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

CanuckGal said:


> You guys/gals are making me jealous! Nice set ups!


So, when are you going to join us? :jester:

By the way, I got it at Lee Valley, for CDN$389. That includes the 17" LS Positioner with Pro-Fence, Wonder Fence, Templates and book plus instructional DVD. 

Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Russtyguy said:


> Hi Cassandra
> Thanks for shareing I appreciat hearing from you you're addition is something else for me to think about is it worth my expence etc. Just getting under way and already looking forward to improvements so Thanks again Russ


You're very welcome, Russ!! Glad to be of help!

Cassandra


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## JOVIMECA (Feb 3, 2010)

cool!


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## thbarstow (Dec 16, 2010)

Your table is beautiful. I am about to enclose an open stand and wondered how much room to allow around a router motor for airflow and exhaust. Those of you with the cabinetry must have some breathing space for the router?

Thanks,
Tim


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Tim:

Welcome to the Router Forums!

Different people have different ideas as to what space, how much air, and the direction of dust flow. 

A very common practice is to enclosed the router in a "box" - a cabinet - and then have the dust swept out the back at the bottom of the "box", with vents at the front of the box to allow replenishment air to flow towards the router. One needs to make sure that the vents allow sufficient air for the router to cool itself.

Other people, like myself, don't enclose the router. My set-up collects dust at the table end of the router and pulls it away from the router (preventing clogging the air intake of the router.) With no enclosure, the router can draw all the air it wants. Besides, the air flow from the router works with the dust collector to remove the dust from around the bit. 

Cassandra


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

How many tools do you have in the shop that box in the motor with all the saw dust,not to many I think,,many say the switch on my router will not work any more ,gee I wonder why..the router is not made to work in air tight box.. 
Not to say anything about the door is always in the way when you are using the router.. 

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-999-500-0...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1294364877&sr=1-1

==========


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

http://www.routerforums.com/axlmyks-stuff/5103-router-table-cabinet.html 

http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/7472-norm-type-router-table-cabinet.html#post68368 

Best router table

http://www.routerforums.com/table-m...router-table-cabinet-incra-ls-positioner.html 

http://www.routerforums.com/table-m...outer-table-incra-ls-positoner-completed.html 

http://www.newyankee.com/sketches/0301s.gif

Just for openers.


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## lerrob (Nov 9, 2010)

very good work.

I shall try to realize this king of router table


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## lerrob (Nov 9, 2010)

sorry for my mistake


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Hi all,
They are some other at this adress
(Il y en a quelques autres à cette adresse)
Association Les copeaux

Santé


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Stands on 41" leg/rail cabinet.
Top: 5/8 MDF, and adjustable fence.
BenchDog lift bolted underneath.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Quillman said:


> Stands on 41" leg/rail cabinet.
> Top: 5/8 MDF, and adjustable fence.
> BenchDog lift bolted underneath.


Nice fence. Could you take an extra .001" off the sides, please?


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## JOVIMECA (Feb 3, 2010)

nice works!


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Hello all!
Sorry I haven't been around much. I won't bore you, with all my complaints about getting old! I will give you young members some good advice. Don't let your pride stop you from asking for help! Lifting that 600+ pound log, machine, beam, etc. by yourself doesn’t prove a darn thing except you are an idiot.:nono: Ever injury, you laugh off now, will come back to get you. You can take this old ex-muscle bond ape's word on that!! One more back surgery and I will need a zipper. You older members, that know what I mean, please add me to your prayer list. Enough of my whining! 
I’m both pleased and downright amazed that this thread is still going! Over 60,000 views, hmmmmm, wish I had thought to ask each viewer to donate a buck. Could pay off some of these medical bills. ( Just joshing!)
So many great ideas, I think I’m going to start myself a photo album of all these tables, before something happens to this thread. So many tables from the most basic to the ones that look more like fine furniture than a router table. Again thanks for your input; I hope others have enjoyed this thread as much as I have! 
Bless you ALL!
Harry


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Old_Chipper said:


> I will give you young members some good advice. Don't let your pride stop you from asking for help! Lifting that 600+ pound log, machine, beam, etc. by yourself doesn’t prove a darn thing except you are an idiot.:nono: Ever injury, you laugh off now, will come back to get you.



Amen Brother!!!! Our brains keep writing checks our body can't cash!!

Solid advise!!!


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

I second that Amen. 

Harry; I feel your pain the Docs have me living on epidurals and Vicoden, got three disc that are wasted. I want to check out a new body..... LOL 
This getting old Sucks...:agree:


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## thbarstow (Dec 16, 2010)

Thank you for the information. I appreciatre your post.
Tim


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## thbarstow (Dec 16, 2010)

Thanks Bob. I think I will make something similar to the photo you attached, leaving the router with plenty of "breathing space." I was concerned with the lack of air flow in items such as Rockler's "dust bucket." I would rather do a little more clean up and make sure the router has enough air flow. The feedback from you and Cassandra is very helpful. Thanks.
Tim


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Titebond can be used to adhere wood to metal?

KR


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

Not as nice looking as most of the others here but it works!


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

walowan said:


> Not as nice looking as most of the others here but it works!


A table need not look nice; it needs to do the job. 

Cassandra


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## toolstoday (Feb 9, 2011)

That table is a great piece of work.
John


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## ATLbound (Feb 8, 2011)

This has been an addictive thread. I read all 37 pages in two days. I've learned that laminating two pieces of MDF will be just fine for my first table top, unless I get crazy and use a scrap Corian sink cutout laminated to a single piece of MDF. The insert is likely to be homemade phenolic or similar. I've gotten good ideas for a fence, dust collection, and mounting T-track which can all be done over time. Given that my sawdust production happens on a balcony or out of town at my father-in-laws, such a top will sit on the folding workbench for now.

Thanks to all for the inspiration and helping me to firm up what I want/need out of a router table.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

*My router table...attaches to work bench*

Here is my first router table. Thanks to all the advice from the wise members here - I wouldn't have known where to start without the guidance I've received. 

The table works well, and given my space limitations (it's in a 4.5 x 2.4m shed!), it works well. It's attached to the work bench via three large hinges, and supported by the struts. It hinges down to the vertical position when not in use - I remove the router when I do that. The RT is very stable and has no wobble or shake whatsoever. It does weigh close to 20kg with router attached, so that helps no doubt.

Am yet to add a mitre track - will work with it as is to see if I need one. I clamp feather boards to the table and/or fence - and that works fine too. I've made a few things with it thus far and they've turned out very well. I may have installed too much fence track - meaning that in some case, the stock passes over them when being routed. However, as I've done such a fine job (nice self congratulation there eh!) of making sure both the plate and tracks are absolutely flush with the top, so far, I've had no binding/bumping issues. 

Anyway, a few pics....


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

matt1710 said:


> Here is my first router table. Thanks to all the advice from the wise members here - I wouldn't have known where to start without the guidance I've received. Anyway, a few pics....


Looks like you have done a nice job conserving space while still getting a new router table. Well done!


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## rcarlton (Jan 30, 2010)

Here's my router table. Two 1/2 inch MDF boards glued together, oak trim and oak plywood. Drawers are all made of Mahogany as is the raised panel door. As the table was coming together I used it to make the drawers and raised panel door.

I modified Bill Hylton's plans as I went. Biggest change was using pocket screws. Learned a lot about woodworking and the time frame of working on projects. This took nearly a year to complete with many, many interruptions.

Ron
Dallas, TX


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## Shepherduke (Apr 30, 2010)

Nice one ron!


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## Damir 66 (Dec 18, 2009)

Very nice job, Ron!The look like piece of furniture!


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## rcarlton (Jan 30, 2010)

DAMIR66 said:


> Very nice job, Ron!The look like piece of furniture!


I'm thinking about knocking the piece of oak out near the switch and replacing it with Mahogany. I think it would help with the overall look. Wish I had used two knobs instead of one on the bottom drawer. Still fretting over the little details!

Thanks guys for the kind words!


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Super nice. Should last a lifetime. Rout and then eat off it.

How did you support the frame if you don't mind saying? I see these supports but they don't come out the other side.

KR


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## rcarlton (Jan 30, 2010)

Kelly Rittgers said:


> Super nice. Should last a lifetime. Rout and then eat off it.
> 
> How did you support the frame if you don't mind saying? I see these supports but they don't come out the other side.
> 
> KR


They are countersunk and screw directly into the table.


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## rcarlton (Jan 30, 2010)

I used eight 2" flat head wood screws on the support frame.


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## DJeansonne (Mar 27, 2009)

*my table --- finally*

I finally got around to making a nice table to replace a "make do" table. I had trouble with the flattness of my MDF laminated top so I purchased a Rockler top and fence that was on sale and made the cabinet based on several plans from magazines and Norm's plan. The router is a PC890.


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## rcarlton (Jan 30, 2010)

DJeansonne said:


> I finally got around to making a nice table to replace a "make do" table. I had trouble with the flattness of my MDF laminated top so I purchased a Rockler top and fence that was on sale and made the cabinet based on several plans from magazines and Norm's plan. The router is a PC890.


Very nice!:yes4:


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

Wow. It took several hours over yesterday and this morning to read this entire thread. Of course that involved clicking on links and getting stuck on them too. Its time for me to build my table. I've been blessed with having a lot of space in my shop so I think I may do an open type cabinet for my router table. I also want the Incra adjustable fence system and those appear to require a slightly larger table than is average, I think. There seems to be a consensus that two ¾" MDF panels glued together will be strong enough. I saw a couple of you had issues keeping that flat. I need flat. I've wondered why there are not any cast iron router table tops? I expect its harder to make modifications to cast iron. Good job all of yall. I have an old drafting table thats base is made out of metal. I think I will start with that as a base.

Good job on yalls tables. I noticed Bob has eleventy gazillion router tables in his space and more than 100 jigs. That ole boy is having a good time with his routers.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

mjdtexan said:


> Wow. It took several hours over yesterday and this morning to read this entire thread. Of course that involved clicking on links and getting stuck on them too. Its time for me to build my table. . . .
> 
> Good job on yalls tables. I noticed Bob has eleventy gazillion router tables in his space and more than 100 jigs. That ole boy is having a good time with his routers.


Hi Michael:

So, when can we expect a summary of the 13 pages you've read? :jester:

Yes, Bob is proof that one cannot have too many router tables. (Maybe we should get a picture of Bob, to see how many hands he has? :jester

The nice thing about using two 3/4" layers of MDF is that once they're glued together and sealed against moisture, there is little chance that they'll go out of flat with good use. (Keep in mind that when gluing the layers, to make sure the bottom layer is laying on a flat surface!) 

In my case, I added a brace to the bottom of my top. The brace serves two purposes -- (1) to add to the flatness of the top and (2) to afford a means to mount the top to the carcase.

Cassandra


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

DJeansonne said:


> I finally got around to making a nice table to replace a "make do" table. I had trouble with the flattness of my MDF laminated top so I purchased a Rockler top and fence that was on sale and made the cabinet based on several plans from magazines and Norm's plan. The router is a PC890.


You did a very nice job! It looks very clean and well made. I keep trying to find time to finish mine but have been too busy.

I am sure it makes your routing duties far more organized and enjoyable.

Thanks for taking time to post photos.


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

Cassandra said:


> Hi Michael:
> 
> So, when can we expect a summary of the 13 pages you've read? :jester:
> 
> ...


¿13 pages? Its 39 pages on my computer. I agree, a good bottom platform for the two MDF panels to live on would be ideal and will be probably what I choose to do also. I know I said I was going to use an old drafting table set of legs but I was just out there in the shop and that old metal desk was speaking to me. I've been contemplating sending it to the recyclers but it just might make a good router table frame. I could cut a hole right in the center and then place the MDF panels on it, ¿que no?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

mjdtexan said:


> ¿13 pages? Its 39 pages on my computer. ¿que no?


Its 39 pages on my computer too!

I am sure the table is sturdy enough and the center seating position would be convenient for a router install, but you also have to consider final height. If it is too low, it can become a back breaking choir instead of an enjoyable hobby. It is a matter of personal preference but something to consider. I like a high table that is closer to eye level and minimal bending is required.


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

timbertailor said:


> Its 39 pages on my computer too!
> 
> I am sure the table is sturdy enough and the center seating position would be convenient for a router install, but you also have to consider final height. If it is too low, it can become a back breaking choir instead of an enjoyable hobby. It is a matter of personal preference but something to consider. I like a high table that is closer to eye level and minimal bending is required.


I do see that its to short but I think I can easily fix that. I could set it on two railroad ties and it would be about right.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

for me its 20 pages, you can go into your options page and change the default for the number of posts per page.....


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

TwoSkies57 said:


> for me its 20 pages, you can go into your options page and change the default for the number of posts per page.....


Yup, your right. I got it down to 10 pages. Thank You.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

mjdtexan said:


> Yup, your right. I got it down to 10 pages. Thank You.


Oops! Mea Culpa! Forgot that I had changed the settings, I did. Sorry!

Cassandra


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Michael

You did a nice job on the new shop by the way, that's going to be a nice one  I have short tables and tall tables and the desk you have will make a nice router table ,I think,The short one comes in handy when you need to do big/tall stock or to do the finish work on drawers/boxes etc. so I would say go for it..

Can't have to many router tables and now you have the room to have many.

==========



mjdtexan said:


> ¿13 pages? Its 39 pages on my computer. I agree, a good bottom platform for the two MDF panels to live on would be ideal and will be probably what I choose to do also. I know I said I was going to use an old drafting table set of legs but I was just out there in the shop and that old metal desk was speaking to me. I've been contemplating sending it to the recyclers but it just might make a good router table frame. I could cut a hole right in the center and then place the MDF panels on it, ¿que no?


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## Alan Bienlein (Oct 17, 2009)

Here are some pics of mine. I just got the dust collection finished up for it and the fronts put on the drawers for the router bits and accesories. I used 4 casters that hold 300lbs each and used a piece of 1/4" thick wall steel tubing thats 2" x 4" along the front to prevent sagging.


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## rcarlton (Jan 30, 2010)

rcarlton said:


> I'm thinking about knocking the piece of oak out near the switch and replacing it with Mahogany. I think it would help with the overall look. Wish I had used two knobs instead of one on the bottom drawer. Still fretting over the little details!
> 
> Thanks guys for the kind words!


Knocked out the oak false front and changed it to Mahogany.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Ron:

Looking great! 

Nice generous amount of overhang of the top. My design short-changed in this department (2" overhang all around) and now it's a pain! Oh well, that will change on the Mark II.

Cassandra


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## Northerner26 (Jan 2, 2010)

i just about have my table finished but im selling the jessem lift and will be
getting a kreg lift instead. someday i will build my own cabinet, it will be nice
and big with plenty of storage.


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

Northerner said:


> i just about have my table finished but im selling the jessem lift and will be
> getting a kreg lift instead. someday i will build my own cabinet, it will be nice
> and big with plenty of storage.


How come you dont like the Jessem lift and what is it about the Kreg lift that you like better?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

mjdtexan said:


> How come you dont like the Jessem lift and what is it about the Kreg lift that you like better?


Ditto?

I love my PRL V2 but it sounds like it did not make the cut either.


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## Northerner26 (Jan 2, 2010)

michael,
i cant say i dont like the jessem as i havent tried it as mine is brand new. im just the
type of person that likes things to match plus blue is my favorite color. i also had a 
chance to look at the kreg lift and the large wheel is pretty slick for moving the carriage.


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## mjdtexan (Dec 31, 2008)

Northerner said:


> michael,
> i cant say i dont like the jessem as i havent tried it as mine is brand new. im just the
> type of person that likes things to match plus blue is my favorite color. i also had a
> chance to look at the kreg lift and the large wheel is pretty slick for moving the carriage.


Thanks


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## don_chr (Feb 20, 2011)

jon,

Nice job on the router table. I like all the bit storage.

Don


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## don_chr (Feb 20, 2011)

Canoeman, Welcome. Good job on the table. It is great seeing all the different ideas for dust collection.

Don


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## don_chr (Feb 20, 2011)

Ron,

Nice job on the RT. I like the drawers and door. The mohagany makes a good contrast to the remainder of your table. I bought one of the Kreg switches for my table and I'm disappointed with how it needs to be mounted. I wish I would have bought one of the MLCS switches that can be mounted flat against the back.

Don


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

rcarlton said:


> Knocked out the oak false front and changed it to Mahogany.


Good idea. Really brings some contrast to the table. Looks good enough to keep in the house!!

Thanks for sharing.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Alan Bienlein said:


> Here are some pics of mine.
> View attachment 42291
> View attachment 42292


Great use of space and glad to see a lot of attention to dust collection. Thanks for the ideas. I may break down and build something similar some day. I have always wanted a second router table.


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## Alan Bienlein (Oct 17, 2009)

Thanks Brad. I've studied alot of router table designs for dust collection and they all had the same problem of dust collectiong in the corners. I purposely shrunk down the size of the area for the router and made the opening for the lower dust collection the same width as the opening. I did some raised panel doors this past weekend and didn't have one bit of dust collectiong inside the cabinet.


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## CraigR (Mar 22, 2011)

*Ok, here is mine*

This is my version of the router table. I got the plans from Norm but made some mods of my own including the hinged top and I have a prop rod set to hold the table up perfectly so I can look down it and set my bit height so no need for a lift.


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## anniekirk (Apr 11, 2010)

*My router table*

This is my router table. The top is two pieces of 3/4" MDF. I put laminate on all exposed areas. I have the PRV-L2 lift and the Incra jig. I used the idea from Norm's New Yankee Workshop years ago. The dust collector attaches to the back. The switch on the side controls the router and the electrical outlet on the back where the vac. plugs in. The other outlet is on all of the time for what ever.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

anniekirk said:


> This is my router table.


I was curious why you did not put your lift at one of the ends of the table? I think it would have greatly increased the capabilities of the fence to handle larger pieces.

I need to finish mine before it gets too hot to work in the garage. I love the wheels!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Craig/John...

Great job on your tables guys. Fantastic work and thanks for sharing with the community. We certainly do have some skilled folks running around this place.. very cool!!!


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## anniekirk (Apr 11, 2010)

Craig,

That's a beautiful table. Nice work.

John


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## CraigR (Mar 22, 2011)

Thanks guys! yours looks real good to John


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

After a good six plus months of abandoning my build, I got around to starting on it again.

 

Need to trim it out, put on a door, and drawer fronts on the bottom two drawers and behind the switch. Pulls are maple inset brass that I found on clearance at Lowes. $.28 each, I figured they would work.

Cabinet is a mismatch of different grades and thickness 3/4" ply, drawers are ply with ash fronts, top is phenolic ply banded by ash. Rockler T-tracks, fence and plate. Haven't tested the dust collection yet.


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## dave123ellen (Nov 12, 2010)

*router table*

here is one that I built


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## Dan Phalen (Dec 14, 2010)

Showed this before here. Pics are from my website where I get about 1200 hits/month.

CraigR, that's a lovely table and I like the way you mounted the Incra--I may do same in the future.

















It's not as clean as it was. Gets a lot of use!


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)




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## Gearhead1 (Aug 30, 2010)

*How do I build Cassandra's Mark II?*



Cassandra said:


> Hi Ron:
> 
> Looking great!
> 
> ...


Cassandra,

Have been following this thread since I joined and have read all the posts, I am about to make a new router table which I hope will be a 'Mark II' of yours. I am wondering how much overhang you would put on your next version. 

Of all the tables shown here, yours most closely resembles my plans, that is; router lift attached to cabinet instead of table top, smooth top with only magna-loc ring inserts, and greater width to depth ratio than most commercial tables.

I would sure like to see more of your table and progress on the lift mechanism. I am about to go through the entire tread again and save all the photos of your table. If you add more or post all of them together it would make a nice step by step table build. Any and all input would be greatly appreciated.

Thanx, Bruce


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Oh, Bruce, you do flatter me!

The problem with the 2" overhang I built into my table is that whenever I am clamping something to the table, the handle of the clamp is too darn close the cabinet. This causes the problem of tightening or loosening the clamp when there isn't enough room for the knuckles.

On the Mark II, I would suggest something on the order of 3.5" to 4". 

The router lift I built has also proven to be problematic. Actually, it's the clamping method on the threaded rod that's the problem. I have designed a new lift, but haven't afforded time to make it. In the next day or two, I'll prepare some drawings of the new lift. That way you can consider the "new and improved" version.

My time is now split two of my hobbies -- woodworking and kayaking. So, I don't get as much time to work wood.

Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Bruce:

I have attached a PDF drawing of the concept in my Mark II lift design. Hopefully, you can understand what I have drawn. If not, please feel free to ask.

On the drawing:
Red: handle and lever
Blue: "cam" and router clamp
Green: nut holders and lift mounts
Grey: nut (cut in half)
Magenta: lift body
Cyan: fine adjustment knob

Not shown are the springs that pull the nut holders open.


Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

For those who have a program that can read AutoCAD 2007 files, here is the DWG file for the Mark II Lift. To get the file uploaded, I inserted it into a ZIP file.

Cassandra


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## Gearhead1 (Aug 30, 2010)

Cassandra,

Thanx for the prompt reply. I may have another solution for the lift. 

Bruce


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## Tempest (Jan 7, 2011)

Cassandra said:


> For those who have a program that can read AutoCAD 2007 files, here is the DWG file for the Mark II Lift. To get the file uploaded, I inserted it into a ZIP file.
> 
> Cassandra


Not a bad idea, though I don't think you'd need a clam shell (you'd have to clock the 2 halves just right as well). Not much force here. A simple half nut should be more than fine. Woodworking vises with a quick adjust use only a half nut and they seem to last just fine.

Also, once you disengage the nut, the full weight of the router and lift becomes unsupported unless I'm missing something?


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Tempest said:


> Not a bad idea, though I don't think you'd need a clam shell (you'd have to clock the 2 halves just right as well). Not much force here. A simple half nut should be more than fine. Woodworking vises with a quick adjust use only a half nut and they seem to last just fine.
> 
> Also, once you disengage the nut, the full weight of the router and lift becomes unsupported unless I'm missing something?


I like to keep things balanced. :jester: Never mind that I'm allergic to shellfish, the clam shell technique appeals to me, as any lateral forces are countered by the opposite half of the clam shell.

Actually, my experience with my previous lift (Mark I), involving half a coupling nut, has left me with a disgust for half-measures, as it were. 

As for missing something, there are two things bouncing in my mind (lots of room to bounce things there, not much else in there :jester. One way is counter the weight of the router and lift (spring or counterweight). Another way is to put up with the weight. I have been doing the latter with the Mark I and have not found the weight extraneous. However, if one doesn't counter the weight, then the forces on the nut may be sufficient to have a half-nut grind along the rod.

Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Gearhead1 said:


> Cassandra,
> 
> Thanx for the prompt reply. I may have another solution for the lift.
> 
> Bruce


Hi Bruce:

You're welcome! And I look forward to your solution.

Cassandra


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## Gearhead1 (Aug 30, 2010)

*Why I Need a New Router Table*

Here is the table my son and I have been using. It was built on a job site by some carpenters for a specific job and then sat in a shed until we inherited it. Although it served it's purpose, it is a collection of bad ideas that can be used as a bad example for others not to follow.

Cabinet:
Metal with one drawer removed to allow the router to hang down. The plywood divider and dust shield over the left side do not keep dust out of the drawer or shelves. From the contact paper inside, it looks like this was in a babies room, possibly a changing table (which might be appropriate for the quality of work it allows). Needs casters!

Top:
Single 3/4" MDF laminated on one side only with granite look plastic. Slots routered into the MDF with metal strips sandwiched between it and the plastic to create t-slots. These are supposed to work with carriage bolts for hold downs with the under head squares preventing rotation. These do not work as intended, so clamps are needed to secure the fence and feather boards. All the problems of miter slots without the ability to use a miter gauge. The combination of the thin top, slots, moisture and one sided lamination has caused the top to become multi-planer (if that's a word) and to delaminate.

Although the top is a nice size (32" x 41") much of it is wasted behind the fence. I think the fence should have been installed the long way (41"). The color choice is terrible because it becomes camoflage for anything set on it (especially small stuff like sub-plate screws). One good thing is the tilting top which lifts to about 100 degrees, allowing the router to be adjusted and removed with ease.

Fence:
Another MDF fabrication which has taken on a shape of it's own that allows one to route unusual curves, like rails and styles that can conform to out-of-plumb walls. Same t-slots, same problems. The dust port is way to small. No provision for zero clearance or outfeed offset.

We won't talk about the electrics or lack thereof. (Toggle switch, zip cord and a weather proof outlet?)

Please note pictures are sans router because we are forced to use the shaper (that nasty word) until we fix this or replace it. 

And that's why I want a table like Cassandra's!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bruce

If you are going to use the same Bosch router in you new table you don't need to make a lift for it like Cassandra's, the router has a built in one.  but I see in your snapshot you are not using it now.

=======

=======


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## johnsattuk (Feb 16, 2011)

Cassandra said:


> I like to keep things balanced. :jester:
> One way is counter the weight of the router and lift (spring or counterweight). Another way is to put up with the weight. I have been doing the latter with the Mark I and have not found the weight extraneous. However, if one doesn't counter the weight, then the forces on the nut may be sufficient to have a half-nut grind along the rod.
> 
> Cassandra


I have installed a tension spring in place of the compression spring in my table mounted Triton to c/balance the weight, makes a big difference to the feel of the lift.


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## Gearhead1 (Aug 30, 2010)

BobJ,

You are correct! We put the fixed base in the table so that we could use the plunge base for hand held routing. I'm not sure if we will continue to use the Bosch in the new table. It has worked flawlesly for 5 plus years with only one switch cleaning. Might like to have a 3 1/4 horsepower unit in the table. 

I'd really like to have all the big dogs to try for a couple of weeks before deciding which one to buy. Anyone know a store that allows a test drive with option to buy?

Bruce


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Bruce:

One might try the tool rental places at stores like Home Depot and Lowes.

Cassandra


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## Gearhead1 (Aug 30, 2010)

Cassandra,

That's a great idea. I will see what they have.

Bruce


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

Wow just a great collection of information and ideas here, unfortuntaly I don't have a table of my own (yet), but this gives me a good idea of what there is out there. Thanks!


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi bkcuper:

Welcome to the Router Forums!! Glad to have you here!!

Cassandra


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## Paddy37 (Apr 25, 2011)

*Pictures of router table*

I've just joined the forum and seen these pictures. I was planning to build a new table but it certainly won't top that. :fie::


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## crappywoodworker (Mar 12, 2011)

*Mine ain't nuthin' like urs!*

I can't believe that I am showing my RT. I am so embarrassed but here it goes:


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## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

crappywoodworker said:


> I can't believe that I am showing my RT. I am so embarrassed but here it goes:


Nothing wrong with that. I have one mounted in the wing of my table saw also, very fictional.


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## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

I have looked in at this thread quite a few times before and I'm always impressed with all the different router table set ups out there. I have a router mounted in the wing of my table saw and I also have a stand alone router table, here is a look at the stand alone table.
I built this router table a few of years ago now, then the winter before last I added a Woodpecker router lift and a Porter Cable 7518. I then decided to build a door for the front since I had no need to work under the table any more. I seen an article in an issue of Fine Woodworking where they use a router jig to make some neat looking lattice (#211 I think). I decided that would look good in my router table. The router table has a built in mobile base, the cabinet is built out of 3/4” MDF, the drawers are made out of 1/2” Baltic Birch plywood with Western Birch for drawer fronts and trim, the grill on the door is made out of a left over piece of Purple heart, the table top is two pieces of 3/4” MDF glued and screwed with a Veritas fence. This thing is rock solid and a pleasure to use. I added a couple of pictures of the micro adjust that I made for the fence, it was very easy to make and could be adapted to many other styles of fences. Thanks for having a look.

Mike


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## Damir 66 (Dec 18, 2009)

This is very nice piece of "furniture".:yes4:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

Nice job 

=====



mikeddd said:


> I have looked in at this thread quite a few times before and I'm always impressed with all the different router table set ups out there. I have a router mounted in the wing of my table saw and I also have a stand alone router table, here is a look at the stand alone table.
> I built this router table a few of years ago now, then the winter before last I added a Woodpecker router lift and a Porter Cable 7518. I then decided to build a door for the front since I had no need to work under the table any more. I seen an article in an issue of Fine Woodworking where they use a router jig to make some neat looking lattice (#211 I think). I decided that would look good in my router table. The router table has a built in mobile base, the cabinet is built out of 3/4” MDF, the drawers are made out of 1/2” Baltic Birch plywood with Western Birch for drawer fronts and trim, the grill on the door is made out of a left over piece of Purple heart, the table top is two pieces of 3/4” MDF glued and screwed with a Veritas fence. This thing is rock solid and a pleasure to use. I added a couple of pictures of the micro adjust that I made for the fence, it was very easy to make and could be adapted to many other styles of fences. Thanks for having a look.
> 
> Mike


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

Some nice creative details there. Especially like how the switch is countersunk into the panel... and your micro-adjuster.


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## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

2bigfeet said:


> Some nice creative details there. Especially like how the switch is countersunk into the panel... and your micro-adjuster.


 The micro-adjuster is very handy for sneaking up on the perfect fit, and goes off and on very quick and painless.

Thanks


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## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

DAMIR66 said:


> This is very nice piece of "furniture".:yes4:


 Thank you, shop furniture is the most fun to build isn't it.


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## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> Nice job
> 
> =====


 Thanks Bob.


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## crappywoodworker (Mar 12, 2011)

That's a router table to be proud of!


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## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

crappywoodworker said:


> That's a router table to be proud of!


Thank you John.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

mikeddd said:


> Thanks for having a look.
> 
> Mike


It looks beautiful. Very nice work.


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## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

Thanks Brad.


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## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

OK, as requested, my out of the box Ryobi router table. Works fine.


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## crappywoodworker (Mar 12, 2011)

*More update photos of TSRT*



crappywoodworker said:


> I can't believe that I am showing my RT. I am so embarrassed but here it goes:


Here are the updated photos. I have several fences that attach to the TS sliding fence. The first one (not pictured) had too wide of an opening. The current one seems to work well. The router has a bolted on dust collector that I have a hose attached to. It works brilliantly, collecting 99% of the debris. The left hose is for the router, the right hose for the table saw. There is a small cut-out along the length of the fence to clean away debris as the piece slides along it. Crude-but it works. I will eventually rebuild it a "pretty it up" with better wood and clean joinery. I just tossed this one together in a short amount of time.

The table saw/router table with my attached out-feed table takes up half of the garage when fully extended but tucks away nicely when the out-feed table is folded down.


----------



## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

Looks good John. I have a question though, do you find your table saw tippy at all with the router mounted in the wing? The reason I ask is a friend of mine wants to do the same thing with a Ridgid contractors saw and we thought he may have to build a extra leg for the saw.


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## crappywoodworker (Mar 12, 2011)

Surprisingly, it is not tippy. The first version, though, was. The table took a near spill. It was first on the left side. Now that it is on the right side it works great. I think I defied the laws of physics?


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## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

Thanks John, glad to here that its not tippy. I'm going to show my buddy Dave pictures of your set up, I'm sure he will get some good idea's. Yours looks like its made of MDF.


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

RStaron said:


> If it's simplicity he wants here it is.


That is simple but very nice. Do you have any problems with router bit height?

KR


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## crappywoodworker (Mar 12, 2011)

I used 2 layers of 3/4" MDF edged with maple. My next step will be to replace the cheapo Sears mounting plate with a router lift. The current plate is undersized so enlarging the mounting area for the new lift should be pretty easy. It will probably house a PC 690. I am currently used a Freud plunger router which is a PITB to adjust.


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## crappywoodworker (Mar 12, 2011)

No problems with router bit height.


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

I am sorry. I was looking at this router table and got the reply wrong. This simple one appeals to me because it looks a little like low bucks. Is it hard to get the router bit high enough though?

I think RStaron make this one.

don't get me wrong. Your is nice to.

KR


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## joedad (Oct 3, 2010)

*My Router Table*

Not as fancy but works for me


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Nice clean job and that's what it's all about 

=====



joedad said:


> Not as fancy but works for me


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## joedad (Oct 3, 2010)

*My router table*

Not as fancy but works for me


----------



## SteveMI (May 29, 2011)

*Table Saw wing router table*

My shop space is limited and to help out I decided to try putting the router on one of my table saw wings. The table saw is an old Craftsman that was made by Emerson which is identical to a Rigid model. The TS has a cast iron top and wings. The table and wings are 27" from front to back.

I searched the different woodworking websites that sell router table tops, but either the size, mounting needs or price didn't work out. Then I checked craigslist for some time and kept calling about the physical size of the table. Eventually I found a table that was the right size being sold from an estate. Ironically it was a Craftsman.

From the pictures you can see that after taking the stand off the router and wing off the TS it fit perfectly. I had to enlarge two of the slots on the router table to use the bolt diameter from where I took the wing off. The holes from fence to table worked fine with no modification.

Being Craftsman, the router mounting holes were their unique pattern and I had to redrill some for my PC 690. I am still designing the router fence setup to use the back side of my TS fence. 

Of course, should I win the RT1000 raffle things will need to change.

Steve


----------



## SteveMI (May 29, 2011)

*Trouble reading file*



Cassandra said:


> For those who have a program that can read AutoCAD 2007 files, here is the DWG file for the Mark II Lift. To get the file uploaded, I inserted it into a ZIP file.
> 
> Cassandra


Hi,

I tried reading the file into BobCad v21 and it failed. Can you provide it in a dxf?

Steve.


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## Relative (Apr 24, 2008)

Cheap table/cabinet made mostly from scrap plywood left over from other projects. Paddle switch is a 'designer' wall switch mounted so that finger has to go into hole to turn it on and hit the paddle anywhere shuts it off. Went through a couple of stages. First used a HF fence. Later added a higher and more adjustable version. Routed into the fence T-tracks at two different heights. Made an insert across the front of the table with miter and t-track slots routed into some scrap wood. Modified the DC outlet using 4" carpet tube and some cutoffs from shop vac. Couple of stop blocks, hold-downs and bit protection pretty much completed the unit.

Mike


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

SteveMI said:


> Hi,
> 
> I tried reading the file into BobCad v21 and it failed. Can you provide it in a dxf?
> 
> Steve.


Sorry, Steve, I overlooked your posting. (My focus is elsewhere.)

Attached are two versions of the DXF file. One is the AutoCAD 2004 ASCII version and the other is AutoCAD 2007 Binary version.

Cassandra


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## SteveMI (May 29, 2011)

Cassandra,

My list of to-do isn't that close to this yet. 

The binary crashed for me, but the ascii opened perfect. Thanks a lot.

Steve.


----------



## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

SteveMI said:


> Cassandra,
> 
> My list of to-do isn't that close to this yet.
> 
> ...


You're welcome, Steve. 

I use IntelliCAD 6 Pro, not AutoCAD. Maybe IntelliCAD didn't convert to binary properly. 

[Edit] I downloaded the binary file from above and it loaded into IntelliCAD okay.

Cassandra


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## Nicholas H. (May 10, 2009)

*"Kreg" Precision Router Table with cabinet...*

Here are pictures of my Kreg Router Table with cabinet...


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## Nicholas H. (May 10, 2009)

More pictures...


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## Nicholas H. (May 10, 2009)

Last few pictures...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nicholas

That's a nice setup  nice job,,,makes me want to build one.. 


==========


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

What is your units of measure on this cad file? I imported and the top view is 10.25" deep. What should the overall dimensions be? Thanks.



Cassandra said:


> Sorry, Steve, I overlooked your posting. (My focus is elsewhere.)
> 
> Attached are two versions of the DXF file. One is the AutoCAD 2004 ASCII version and the other is AutoCAD 2007 Binary version.
> 
> Cassandra


----------



## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

mgdesigns said:


> What is your units of measure on this cad file? I imported and the top view is 10.25" deep. What should the overall dimensions be? Thanks.


Hi Mark:

I usually work directly in 1 CAD unit = 1 inch. 

The cyan coloured circle near the centre of the drawing has a radius of 1.5 inches. If one does a LIST command on it, CAD should respond with a radius of 1.5000. And the top view is 10.25" deep (also 10.25 units deep.)

Yellow portion of the sled measures:
10.25" deep
7.25" wide
9" high

The material is CADded as 0.74" thick MDF. 

The magenta-coloured rod is 3/4" dia x 18.00" Quick L stainless steel rod.


Cassandra


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

Thanks, I'll check it out. I imported into Rhino and may have had the setting defaulted to mm. I changed units and now the sizes look a bit more in range. Thanks.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

*Quick n' dirty*

Just a couple of shots of a little table I threw together the last few days. Total out of pocket was zero as everything came out of the scrap heap. 

Plate is acrylic, about 7/32" x 7-1/2" x ~9", top and fence is an old countertop cutoff I got from a Home Center mill shops dumpster. Fence also incorporated a scrap piece of 3/4 ply. Total time was 4-5 hrs. The thing was built specifically for the Colt angle base. Works pretty well but I'm still not sure if it is better to have the bit angled toward or away from the fence. It can go either way so I can play with it with no big changes.

The substrate on the top and fence is particle board so I don't expect a long life before is warps enough to be unusable but that's not a big deal, I can just toss another together. 

I may end up opening the hole in the fence so I can use a slot cutter, right now it is just 3/4" wide. I also didn't make much provision for dust collection as I don't anticipate any long runs on it. Kinda hope I'm wrong there, kinda neat to play with


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## Relative (Apr 24, 2008)

*Dedicated roundover handy table*

Saved a shelf (about 16" by 17") from an old TV stand and mounted a 1HP router in it with a 1/4" roundover bit. I consider this setup to be permanent (until the bit wears too much) and it has seen a lot of use by both me and 'borrowers'. I got the router for $1 at a yard sale and it was badly in need of a bearing. $12 later it worked just fine. Replaced the cord with a 15' length and it can be set up just about anywhere for its single-function use. Told you I was cheap!

Mike


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## woodtherapist (Nov 23, 2010)

All I can say is "WOW!" I bet that set-up can "sing and dance"!

Your son should be taking some notes and paying attention to that kinda schooling!

Indeed, a very nice set-up, sir.

Cordially,

Corey


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## Paddy37 (Apr 25, 2011)

*New Router Table Pics*

I've finally got round to finishing my new table. Used the design from the 'New Yankee' and changed a couple of bits to suit. The top is larger than Norms' and there are wheels on the back so I tilt it back and can move it. The top is double thick MDF and is hinged to make any work to the router easier. I've used a 'routa Lift' from Axminster Tools and it seems fine. The heavy duty build makes it a lot quieter that I'm used to. I learnt lots of new things and managed to produce a reasonable amount of firewood during the build but got there in the end!!!!

Cheers, Keith


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Paddy37 said:


> I've finally got round to finishing my new table. Used the design from the 'New Yankee' and changed a couple of bits to suit. The top is larger than Norms' and there are wheels on the back so I tilt it back and can move it. The top is double thick MDF and is hinged to make any work to the router easier. I've used a 'routa Lift' from Axminster Tools and it seems fine. The heavy duty build makes it a lot quieter that I'm used to. I learnt lots of new things and managed to produce a reasonable amount of firewood during the build but got there in the end!!!!
> 
> Cheers, Keith


great job, Keith


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## Paddy37 (Apr 25, 2011)

Thanks, James


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Mike, please install a safety starting pin in that dedicated round over table; it should be about an inch away from the bit. This prevents the bit from grabbing your wood when starting the cut... safety first!

Nice looking table Keith. By the way, the design is from Fine Woodworking Magazine. Member Joe started selling this design as the RT1000 about 6 months before Norm "designed" his version.


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## dustybuggers (Aug 21, 2011)

Some serious router tables pictured here. You guys make mine look like child's play.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Is that 3/8 inch plexaglass you used for your plate?


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

HI All;
Just wanted to thank everyone for making this thread,"The best collection of router tables on the Internet" When I started it, I had no idea it last this long. 
Thanks again!
God Bless
Harry, TX


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## Dezyn (Sep 2, 2011)

*Plans*



bigdogmedia66 said:


> Here's mine that I finished a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> TS/RT combo


Hi Bigdog do you have plans and a cutting list for your table it looks just what i need.
Thanks
Den


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## Aryan (Sep 19, 2011)

Hi...,Nice post,great job...i got two router tables from this site.Sorry i can not paste here its pictures.Must visit this site i given below,they really have nice stuff and its pictures in it...Nice sharing all of here!!


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## Originalbart (Jun 2, 2006)

*I got to catching up & was reading this thread & found out that.

The over arm & bitjack are no longer available from Lee Valley.*[/COLOR


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

I spent two days looking at this post. It is amazing the variety of router tables in there.

I had a small idea for mine but after checking these 49 pages, the possibilities are endless.

I want to return to my country to do my own one.


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## red_tigrav (Sep 18, 2009)

*Some pictures of my router table*

Hello,
I just finished this cabinet for my Dewalt router.
This is a Dewalt DW625EK mounted on a Axminster lift.
The cabinet is mainly made ​​of 18mm MDF, and for the table, there are two MDF panels each 18mm, screwed together and with a veneer laminate on top.
Thank you for sharing your opinion on this modest achievement
Hello from Belgium to all.
Phil


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

Philippe: Sorry, but I don't see your pictures. Did you post them?


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## red_tigrav (Sep 18, 2009)

mgdesigns said:


> Philippe: Sorry, but I don't see your pictures. Did you post them?


Yes i tried, but unfortunately, i did not see that i had to make 10 post before to do it. ( i am new to thé forum)
I hurry to post messages.
Have a nice day
Phil


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## red_tigrav (Sep 18, 2009)

Finally, here are some pictures of my router table (not yet fully completed), this weekend as usual.
I wish your comments.
Best regards.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Very nice, Philippe.

the furniture I have made is not that nice.......LOL


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## red_tigrav (Sep 18, 2009)

jw2170 said:


> Very nice, Philippe.
> 
> the furniture I have made is not that nice.......LOL


Thank you very much James,
In fact I work the wood mainly for myself (renovation of my house) and occasionally to other people (garden bench, wine cellar ..., I can post pictures if you want...) 
But I have no external reference for judging the quality of what I do, so I turned to this forum, very rich in achievement for a maximum of opinions and to evolve .
Have a nice day
Phil


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## theexpozay (Oct 4, 2011)

Ok I just spent the better part of the day reading this thread.... Now I want my table saw wing RT so bad I can taste it....


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

Very nice, indeed. It has all the high dollar accessories and features. PM me and I'll give you an address to send it to when you grow tired of it.


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## BouseyII (Sep 7, 2011)

*Picture of router table designed by Norm Abrams*



Old_Chipper said:


> Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.
> So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.


I am attaching pictures of the router table I was able to purchase recently from the estate of an older couple. The wife ordered plans from the Norm Abrams TV show and had a cabinet maker build the table and equip with commercial grade Craftsman router, and table top. It is built from high quality 3/4 inch plywood and excellent craftsmanship. Even though I did not build it, thought other members might like to see. It has an excellent dust control port, very well engineered cut off switch and rollers to move around shop.

Bousey II:dirol:


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## williamm (Oct 10, 2011)

*Router table (top) coming*

There sure are a lot of good looking cabinets in this thread. I wouldn't mind building any one of them. However, due to my limited space, I think the best thing for me is to make a portable top that I can place on my table saw wing and remove very easily.
I have gotten a lot of good ideas from looking at the pictures accompanying your posts.

I have a new Craftsman router with two bases on order now. Just waiting for the email to say it is ready. I had a Craftsman before (which disappeared) and I was happy with it. And the price was very good. I got $15 off for the sale price plus another $20 off for being a member of the Craftsman club. I hope it is as good as the one I used to have. The router I plan to mount on the top is a Chicago 3/4 HP from Harbor Freight. It is a tool I had to get in a pinch just based on price and it is not exactly manufactured to the highest standards. But it did serve it's purpose.

I will be back with pictures when it is finished.


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## Jim Champaigne (Aug 26, 2009)

*Enclosed Router Table*

To reduce the noise of the 3 1/4 hp Porter Cable router, I used two layers of 3/4inch plywood and two layers of counter top.
Dust collection is vented at rear bottom with smaller hose in center of the spilt fence.
Notice the two wagon wheels on bottom of the frame. The foot pedal on the left, when stepped on, will lift the entire cabinet pivoting on the two wheels. Then, a verticle wood flap will swing into place (spring loaded) to hold the foot pedal down. This action lifts up all four legs, leaving the two wheels exposed enough to freely move the cart.
When I gently kick the verticle flap with my foot, the wheel assembly raises and the cabinet is now sitting on four legs.
Two carriage bolts on the foot pads allow leveling for an uneven floor.


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## Pagan Wizard (Nov 24, 2008)

Jim, you can eliminate a lot of that bulk designed for sound deadening by using this...

FatMat Sheet Sound Deadener Noise Killer


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## Pagan Wizard (Nov 24, 2008)

Sorry it took me so long to find this thread. Money and time have greatly restricted my woodworking. I bought a Sommerfeld router table, along with a Triton 3 1/4 HP router, but have not yet put it together. I will post some pics when I do.

Here is a link to the table if you're interested.....yes it is a very pricey table.

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/SO-Top-Fence/productinfo/SORS/


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## Limo (Jan 1, 2010)

Here's a couple of pic's of the one I made. Router top and fence is rockler. Porter 3hp router. Made it about 11 yrs ago.


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## mrdiegon (May 29, 2011)

Nice. What are you all meaning by OP?


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## barking spider (Dec 26, 2010)

OP refers to the person that wrote the original post, or started the thread. OP = Original Poster.


----------



## boardfoot (Aug 13, 2005)

Old_Chipper said:


> Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.
> So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.


Here is a router table I built about 3 years ago:
Larry


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

OR

It can be Oak Park..


====



barking spider said:


> OP refers to the person that wrote the original post, or started the thread. OP = Original Poster.


----------



## WillMatney (Oct 6, 2011)

*Great router lift*



Cassandra said:


> Here are a few shots of my table. The table is a work-in-progress – lots of work yet to be done on it.
> 
> *Photo 1:* In this photo, please note the following:
> Dust collection connection at the left end.
> ...


I really like the router lift you made, and wouldn't mind seeing more about it. It looks to have a cam type clamp to hold it after raising, etc. Anyhow, this is great work.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Will:

Thanks for the compliment. 

The original design of the lift, I was never satisfied with it. That's why I designed a replacement. Unfortunately, I have taken up another hobby that is consuming a lot of time (kayaking.) As a consequence, I have not yet built the replacement. Winter's coming and I am hoping my kayaking slows down for the chilly months, so that I can build the replacement. 

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask.

Cassandra


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## Oakenrealm (May 13, 2011)

RStaron said:


> If it's simplicity he wants here it is.


I have one of the fixtures/jigs that I see in the picture of your router table, in the bottom section, that was found while helping a friend clean out his father-in-law's shop. We have been unable to identify it and have never seen another until I ran across your pictures. What are the two devices and how are they used? Any information will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Hi All,

I am about 4 months into trying to build out my own personal 'super shop'. Right now it is packed into the garage to keep it out of the rain. Eventually it ends up having it's own building built around it.

Reading the first half of this awesome thread has helped understand a lot more of how I want to throw it all together. I haven't used a router since 1980 or so, but am itching to give them a whirl cutting dados and dovetailing.

Having the uncontrollable urge to build custom cabinetry to the shape of the room it fills, I frequently end up working on large workpieces. I want to try to build out a bench station to accommodate 12 foot long stock. Table saw(s), router(s), a Miter/chop saw and a drill press need to be accommodated along a 'uniform' work height common to all of the machines (somewhere in between 30 & 48 inches above the floor).

Just like a kid in a candy store, I pretty much want it all!. I just haven't quite figured out how much I can actually eat at once without it all coming back up and making a mess on the floor.


----------



## TheOakDude (Oct 11, 2011)

*This is Good*

I am in the process of final design of my very first table and all this is brilliant.
So many different ways so many different approaches. Hard to decide which way to go but 1 thing is for certain. I will have managed to learn a lot from all of your experience and hopefully my 1st table will be something usable.
thanks again


----------



## Oakenrealm (May 13, 2011)

*Multipurpose Fixed Router Table*

When planning my first fixed workbench I needed to use the space as a router table and miter saw station. I have found standard router tables inadequate in size for routing longer or wider pieces. So I incorporated a router table into the bench top and recessed the miter saw so they could share the bench top. The router area of the bench top is 88 in. wide and 35 1/2 inch deep. Large table tops or cabinet doors are fully supported.

The arrangement has worked well. Notice the door to the left leading into the garage. The door can be opened to mill even longer stock with either the router table or miter saw. I added the drawers to house router bits and jigs. Still to come is dust collection incorporated into the bench. Room was left behind the drawers for a 4 inch dust collection hose.


----------



## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Thanks for posting pics of your bench Don. I can't really tell from the pictures if it started as one cabinet that was modified in the center for the miter saw or if you built up a bridge in between two similar cabinets. Either way, you did an awesome job, especially so considering the 'harmony' of the door's location when working with long stock.

Used desks are fairly easy to come by, and at first glance of photo 2 it seemed like you had made a router table out of a desk, which I thought was a very cool thing. Closer looks at drawer sizes and other things then led me to think that it was more of a custom cabinet arrangement.

Anyhows, thanks again!


----------



## Oakenrealm (May 13, 2011)

wbh1963 said:


> Thanks for posting pics of your bench Don. I can't really tell from the pictures if it started as one cabinet that was modified in the center for the miter saw or if you built up a bridge in between two similar cabinets. Either way, you did an awesome job, especially so considering the 'harmony' of the door's location when working with long stock.
> 
> Used desks are fairly easy to come by, and at first glance of photo 2 it seemed like you had made a router table out of a desk, which I thought was a very cool thing. Closer looks at drawer sizes and other things then led me to think that it was more of a custom cabinet arrangement.
> 
> Anyhows, thanks again!


The whole thing was made from scratch. I loosely modeled the frame from Norm Abram's New miter saw bench on New Yankee Workshop. Hopefully the attached photo will help.


----------



## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Oh yes, the latest photo explains far more than just a thousand words would. Right down to the 'half lapping' and dado insetting in the framing sections. Just looking at how well you designed and built it out is inspiring to me.


----------



## billy elliott (Oct 4, 2011)

*Router Table Dimensions*

I would like to know the Dimension of your router table would you email me with this
Thank you
billhy:moil:


----------



## billy elliott (Oct 4, 2011)

*Router Table Dimensions*

I would like to know the Dimension of your router table would you email me with this
Thank you
billy:moil:


----------



## Oakenrealm (May 13, 2011)

The router area of the bench top is 88 in. wide and 35 1/2 inch deep. Be sure to see my previous post with more pictures.


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

I know this isn't exactly fair, but when someone on the TDPRI.com forum posted that Grizzly had this table & stand on sale, I bought it. $133 delivered. And kids helped me set it up. I can't wait to make stuff now. My brand new, never used (bought it last Christmas) P-C #609LR will be right at home under this baby.

Mark in Nashville


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## myron356 (Jun 24, 2010)

*Bare Bones Router Table*

Couldn't resist making this my first reply since joining some time ago. My shop is in the garage and basement at our home in New Jersey and sometimes I have to transport tools I need for projects at our childrens' homes in New Jersey and Vermont.
I started routing using a benchtop table which is part of a Porter-Cable package but found I wanted a larger work surface and stand alone table. I should say that I want to put most of my time and effort into my projects not into my jigs, fixtures and tools.
So my router table was made quickly from less than one sheet of low grade plywood and was designed to be easily broken down for transport.
The pictures show the assembled table. The sides and back are joined with butt hinges at the back corners and two front "stretchers" span the front at the top and bottom. They are loosely mortised through the sides and fixed with wedges for easy breakdown. A loose shelf sits on the bottom "stretcher" and a cleat screwed to the back.
For the top I use a Rockler package to which I attached cleats on the bottom four edges so that it drops onto the table with the cleats limiting motion, held down only by it's weight.


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## Paddy37 (Apr 25, 2011)

Myron, I think that is absolutely brilliant, what a great idea. Wish I had thought of it myself

Regards, Keith


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## myron356 (Jun 24, 2010)

Paddy37 said:


> Myron, I think that is absolutely brilliant, what a great idea. Wish I had thought of it myself
> 
> Regards, Keith


Thanks Keith,
Feel free to adapt it to your needs.
Myron


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## rlp_581026 (Aug 19, 2009)

*my router table - basic but functional*

I needed a router table but didn't want to spend alot of $ so I came up with this design. The top lifts to adjust the router or change the bits. The shelf is designed to set the router motor on while changing the bits and the wrenches hang on a screw inside the frame. The hardboard top is replaceable for different size bit openings and is held in place by the oak border strip. It's build of plywood & dimensional lumber & works pretty good for me.


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## 2bigfeet (Mar 3, 2011)

Looks good Randy!


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## Smitty14 (Apr 9, 2011)

mgdesigns said:


> I know this isn't exactly fair, but when someone on the TDPRI.com forum posted that Grizzly had this table & stand on sale, I bought it. $133 delivered. And kids helped me set it up. I can't wait to make stuff now. My brand new, never used (bought it last Christmas) P-C #609LR will be right at home under this baby.
> 
> Mark in Nashville


I am going to pull the trigger and purchase the grizzly table. Looks like a good table for the cost.


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## Llewel (Nov 29, 2011)

*Newbie at this*

Great job on your tables. I hope to grow up to be just like you.


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## Oregonwoodworker (Nov 28, 2011)

*Bench top router table shopnotes #45*

Here is my router table I just built 

-Larry


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

My first table was from ShopNotes #1 with a couple of modifications. I feel their plans are very easy to work with and good designs. Any comments on the build Larry?


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## Oregonwoodworker (Nov 28, 2011)

Hi Mike,
This one is shop notes #45. I modified it a little. I think its more stable to have the table not fold down like shop notes. I put some T tracks in the table top so the fence can move a little easier. Here are some more pictures to show what I have changed.
Do you have pictures of your project?


-Larry


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

This is my first table. I found the metal stand at a yard sale for $5; it had a piece of plywood with the router bolted directly to it. When the router died the guy put it up for sale. I installed a Rousseau mounting plate in it and was applying the finish to the red oak trim when a buddy came by and told me it was going home with him. I ended up taking his table and a stack of dead presidents in trade. The fence is from the table in photo 2; The fence in photos 2 & 3 is my modified version of the plan fence shown in photo 4. You can also see this table on the PBS show Woodsmith Shop. For anyone who wants to know what the plan looks like for Larry's table you can see it on the cover in photo 5. Photo 6 shows a neat portable table plan they offered in ShopNotes # 71.


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## Oregonwoodworker (Nov 28, 2011)

That's a big difference in tables Mike 
They seem to get better and better. my table is issue 45 as you said its my first attempt 
at a small table I built a large floor model. Its a lot of templates to building this style of table.On my floor model it doesn't have a removable insert it just has the largest bit I could find and used it to cut the hole for the insert,and called it good. I spent allot of time on this one so I wanted to get it right.

-Larry


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I was worried to death that i would screw up my first table too. Building a table is the best way to learn basic skills; if you screw up so what? It is a router table not a heirloom triple dresser. We learn from our mistakes. Everybody makes them. By sharing our accidents with others we all learn. I am building a cradle right now. I was rushing to get it done and marked the cut dimensions on the wrong end of the wood. I was lucky that I came to my senses and stopped for the night or I would of made a huge mistake. It is easy enough to mark the correct end but if I had kept pushing myself I would of ruined the glued up headboard and had to start over. This is an important lesson for us all. When you are tired take a break. If you can not give 100% of your attention to what you are doing stop. People that are tired or distracted make mistakes and this is how accidents happen.
By the way, I spent many hours using that first table at my friends place. I was very pleased with the way it performed. After that first table Rick talked me into trying a Router Workshop table and I will never switch back. No fussing with T tracks, I just clamp my set up and go. This is the table I use the most. I still have the trade in table; I installed a HF mounting plate in it with an old router. I have been using it strictly for rounding over edges but it needs to go. I am building two new tables using the methods described in the sticky thread about building a table top. Before long I will have the shots of making the table posted in another sticky thread and most likely a video.


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## Oregonwoodworker (Nov 28, 2011)

Mike that sounds like you have a great time and a lot of skill with router tables and woodworking. I agree I worry about screwing up my new table as well. That's why I make a lot of jigs and test pieces before I commit to the table.you probably do as well. to your question in PM I cant send any privet messages yet as I am a new member. But just to Briefly answer some of your questions with out going into a lot of detail until I can send a privet message. I have 35 years in woodworking. I built some large and small projects from table chairs,entertainment systems,computer desks,I build guitars, banjos,
from open back to guard banjos. I was a contractor for ten years. Building large duplexes to large homes I also am a designer of homes. with cad experience with revit BIM software. and all the autocad software products. I am into small tiny homes and have a web site. maybe a hint to my web site would be okay best tiny homes. you know the rest. I cant mention as one of the stipulations on new forum rules.I wouldn't say I am a master woodworker as well. I do okay..so when I am able to answer you PM I will get back to you with some more information. Hope that tells you a little about me. Hope to be talking to you soon.

-Larry


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## matermark (Nov 28, 2011)

mgdesigns said:


> I know this isn't exactly fair, but when someone on the TDPRI.com forum posted that Grizzly had this table & stand on sale, I bought it. $133 delivered. And kids helped me set it up. I can't wait to make stuff now. My brand new, never used (bought it last Christmas) P-C #609LR will be right at home under this baby.
> 
> Mark in Nashville


Thanks for posting this! I had a "chicken or the egg" problem come up when I thought about making my own (dead circular saw, NUMEROUS sets of Craftsman Moulding cutters/sets, but NO tablesaw!) So I bit the bullet and just ordered that one too, but I found a $20 off coupon first!

Now all I have to do is buy a Bosch 1617EVSPK and then find a Bosch 4100-09 saw for the Freud blades and Bosch digital fence I already ordered...


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## D.C. (Dec 6, 2011)

Mark, 
I see you are interested in the Bosch 1617EVSPK. If you haven't bought it yet, Amazon has a $20 off of routers over $100. The Bosh kit shows $179 - $20 at checkout = $159. Mine will be here tomorrow. I think that is a good buy.


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## korgen (Jun 20, 2011)

*My new router table*



Old_Chipper said:


> Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.
> So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.



Hi everyone! This is my first post so be kind.

I started this project with the New Yankee router table design and changed it to fit me. I built it so the table was at elbow height which is 40” for me. I find this height gives me more control, saves my back, gives me more storage and makes it easier to see what I am doing. I dispensed with the acrylic door and left the back of the router compartment open. The small amount of chips that get past the dust port on top can just be swept out. The case is made of birch plywood, the drawer fronts are cherry with walnut trim and the top is also trimmed in walnut. That’s my stash of rough sawn walnut behind the table.

I mounted a Triton 3 1/4hp router on a Woodpecker 3/8” aluminum plate which makes it easy to adjust above the table and should have enough power for just about any bit. I just completed the table and haven’t installed the on/off switch yet. I plan to make it portable with two wheels on the right side and the removable handle from my mobile band saw for the other side.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Brian

NICE JOB  

I have seen many router tables and yours is built with some common sense into it,, Once Again Nice Job  BUT may I suggest one or two things,you add a tee track (just like the one you put in to the table top) to the fence so you can use the track for a bit guard/feather boards and to use the zero insert plates in the fence and stop blocks,it's a simple thing by just cutting the fence parts on a 10 deg. angle (on the ends) so the insert can just slip into place and get locked into place and close the black hole off behind the bits and it will let your Vac.system work better also.. 

===



korgen said:


> Hi everyone! This is my first post so be kind.
> 
> I started this project with the New Yankee router table design and changed it to fit me. I built it so the table was at elbow height which is 40” for me. I find this height gives me more control, saves my back, gives me more storage and makes it easier to see what I am doing. I dispensed with the acrylic door and left the back of the router compartment open. The small amount of chips that get past the dust port on top can just be swept out. The case is made of birch plywood, the drawer fronts are cherry with walnut trim and the top is also trimmed in walnut. That’s my stash of rough sawn walnut behind the table.
> 
> I mounted a Triton 3 1/4hp router on a Woodpecker 3/8” aluminum plate which makes it easy to adjust above the table and should have enough power for just about any bit. I just completed the table and haven’t installed the on/off switch yet. I plan to make it portable with two wheels on the right side and the removable handle from my mobile band saw for the other side.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

very nice table, Brian, and welcome to the forum


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## bgriggs (Nov 26, 2008)

My Joescnc 4x4 Hybrid router table.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Perhaps I'm mistaken but this is not a router table but a CNC?

In that case why you dont show more of your CNC? (should be in the appropriate section of this forum)


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Brian, nice job on the table. Norm built "his" table from modifications to a design published in Fine Woodworking Magazine. Forum member Joe(RT1000) was selling his own version 6 months before Norm jumped in. In other words this is YOUR design. Good choice on adapting the height to a comfortable position for you.

Bill, nice CNC. Please do actively participate in our CNC forum.


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## korgen (Jun 20, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Brian
> 
> NICE JOB
> 
> ...


Thanks for the response. I do have a T track on the fence if that is what you are referring to but I am not visualizing what you are suggesting about the fence parts cut at 10 deg. and the insert plates in the fence and stop blocks. Can you clarify this for me?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Brian, the sliding faces on the fence is what BJ is talking about. You miter cut them so they come to a point at the front of the fence, the back edge of the sliding faces are about 3/4" apart on your design. The image below is from ShopNotes #1; I highly recommend ShopNotes and Woodsmith for their excellent plans.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

You want the tee slot track lower

http://www.routerforums.com/105817-post1.html
====



korgen said:


> Thanks for the response. I do have a T track on the fence if that is what you are referring to but I am not visualizing what you are suggesting about the fence parts cut at 10 deg. and the insert plates in the fence and stop blocks. Can you clarify this for me?


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## korgen (Jun 20, 2011)

Ok I get it; I think I can modify my fence the way you suggest. Thanks Bob & Mike for the info.


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## billy elliott (Oct 4, 2011)

Merry Christmas and happy New Year to all members


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## jamesamd (Jul 21, 2011)

Pages load like dial up for Me,so I did not view every page in this thread.Probably My fault,I still am using Win 98 and IE 6.
My table extension is made from scrap from a robot I decommisioned awhile back.
Jim


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## ethylplant (Feb 19, 2011)

*Router Table*

I took a Kreg Router Table and modified it a bit to fit my needs. It is a rather simple table and fence system, but I sure like it (especially the fence system). Still needs to be sealed / painted, but you can get the idea.


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## billy elliott (Oct 4, 2011)

Do any of you fine member have a free blue print on building a kitchen island with a place to have breakfest on
billy


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## chopnhack (Nov 11, 2009)

With respect to the 10 degree question asked earlier, why not a 45 degree cut instead? Is there a reason for 10 degrees? Does it work better?

Thanks in advance.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

John, there are many schools of thought on what way works best. I built the design I posted on this page and didn't build the guard since I installed a T track for mounting accessories. I followed the plan instructions which called for a 45° cut on the sliding fences. BJ is gifted in jig design and I am sure he had good reasons for his choice of 10°.


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## chopnhack (Nov 11, 2009)

Thanks Mike, maybe BJ will pass by and fill us in on this aspect. Maybe its enough of an interlock without having to slide the fences too far back to install? I guess we'll see.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

jamesamd said:


> Pages load like dial up for Me,so I did not view every page in this thread.Probably My fault,I still am using Win 98 and IE 6.
> My table extension is made from scrap from a robot I decommisioned awhile back.
> Jim


Thanks for sharing. Maybe one day I will add a router to my table saw. Looks like a great use of space and an already existing table.

Happy holidays!


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## chaplainpilot (Oct 13, 2011)

*New router/table saw project*

Just posting by almost completed project. Still need add dust collection for the router table and miter slots. The router box it lighted, and the diy router plate allows light to better see the cut. The plexiglass observation window is removeable.
Looking forward some great projects this winter.


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## SteveMI (May 29, 2011)

chaplainpilot said:


> Just posting by almost completed project. Still need add dust collection for the router table and miter slots.


Looks good, thanks for sharing. I have the same TS, just different fence. Your project really gives me some great ideas. While my router table replaces a TS wing the space under the TS, opposite wing and router just attracts clutter.

Steve.


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

*Kitchen island.*



billy elliott said:


> Do any of you fine member have a free blue print on building a kitchen island with a place to have breakfest on
> billy


Hi, Billy. Happy new year for you and all the fellow members of this forum.

Regarding to your requirement, I suggest to visit the web site of QUALITY CABINETS SERIES, particularly the product specifications book, issued on febraury 2009. I also recommend to check MERILLAT and TIMBERLAKE websites. You will find a lot of information that you can adopt for your available space.

They have guides and forms to lay out your cabinets.

Best regards.


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## lonestarsmoker (Jan 4, 2012)

Harry
Where did you get your kill switch for your table on image 3? I have been searching for one like this to no avail.
Thanks
Dan


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## TedG (Jan 25, 2012)

Wow, you guys have some awsome tables. I have been looking for a design to build myself, thanks for sharing!!!


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## chaplainpilot (Oct 13, 2011)

Thanks for commenting. I just rebuilt my router fence so it taller. Looking to put a PC 3.25 router in it. Likely will have to make a larger open.

Merritt


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## Kris in Toronto (Jan 23, 2012)

I will post mine when my account is fully activated


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Kris in Toronto said:


> I will post mine when my account is fully activated


With 11 posts you should not have any limitations & all functions available to you.


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## mountaindew (Nov 30, 2008)

Saw and router tables combo


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## wingrider (Dec 19, 2011)

very nice, I hope to have something like this soon, great example for your son


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## Midnightflyer (Jan 19, 2012)

*Just to say Thanks*

Just wanted to give a big thank you for all the help I have received from this great group in puting this router cabinet together, not quite done with it and some small errors (because of getting in a hurry), still have the doors (or drawers) to put on the bottom, also need to put some kind of finish on it, don't know what yet, so, if anyone has any suggestions on that it would sure be welcome.....Thanks again!!! Floyd........... 


_________________________________________

Gray hair is hereditary..... I got mine from my kids.... :wacko:


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Nicely done Floyd! I would also point out that 'finished or not', your outfit is a whole bunch more 'functional' than my 'dream table'. Between priorities shifting about and a never ending flow of 'new ideas' every time I get close to pouncing, I end up back in the 'design phase'.

Thanks for sharing!




Midnightflyer said:


> Just wanted to give a big thank you for all the help I have received from this great group in puting this router cabinet together, not quite done with it and some small errors (because of getting in a hurry), still have the doors (or drawers) to put on the bottom, also need to put some kind of finish on it, don't know what yet, so, if anyone has any suggestions on that it would sure be welcome.....Thanks again!!! Floyd...........
> 
> 
> _________________________________________
> ...


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## Midnightflyer (Jan 19, 2012)

Thanks Bill for the kind words, wood working for 25 years but still a novice, I enjoy working with larger projects, my patients run very thin with small projects..... Thanks again!!!.........Floyd


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## Clyde_WoodBee (Jan 15, 2012)

*Wow!*

Talk about fine machining in wood! That Incra-Fence must be expensive!

On a more practical note - where did you who built your tables get those top grade start/stop switches?

Do they run the router only? Or do they run turn both the router and shop-vac system on simultaneously?

Thanks for your help in finding a good switch for my get-ups.




TwoSkies57 said:


> Harry...
> 
> hope your son has as much fun building his, as i did mine...


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Hi James.

I was wondering myself if this is a RT for the short future to do woodworking out there in the space.

Nice job, my friend.


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

When I first discovered this thread my mind was soon filled dreams of building the perfect table. Somewhere along the way through this massive thread two things started becoming clear.

1. I didn't want to wait until I could build my own table to be able to do table routing.
2. A baby-basic routing table could be a big help in actually building a 'long term fancy table'

Several weeks ago I acquired table number one for the purpose of scratching the itch and helping me build the 'dream table'.

Yesterday, tables two and three were delivered. Today I mounted a router in place on #2 just fooling around. I forgot to take pics of the process and it is only three screws, so I will probably pull it back down.

Table 3 is a 'Table Saw Add-On Option'. The accessory kit containing the mounting plate is on order. If it ain't here in a week, I might whip a temporary fake up out of 3/8 plywood to keep the ball rolling.


T1 will seldom have anything other than a 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" straight bit in it for making box joints. It is destined to be converted into a box joint machine that is half Jig & half router table. The Craftsman router that came with it is likely the only machine that will ever be mounted in that table. I may or may not also do my 'slot cutting' on this one when doing up Jigs.

T2 is a pretty solid no frills steel topped table with a lot of holes and a miter slot in the top of it. This will be my general purpose edge contouring table for doing up drawer faces and the like. I will use one of my Millers Falls 7900's in this table. The open design of the table and the router work well with each other with regards to the chores of bit height adjustment & bit changes. This is the table that will see frequent bit changes.

T3 will hold another Millers Falls 7900 dedicated to the task of edge planing. After the mounting plate arrives in the "Ryobi Kit", I will be able to assess how difficult it will be to get the 'planing bit' out of the way when it's time to 'rip timber' on the TS half.

After using the three of these for a while, I will have a better idea of what the 'perfect table' for me is! I suppose some time after that, I can revisit designing one that I want to build.


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## WillMatney (Oct 6, 2011)

Bill,

It surprises me that the Wolfcraft seems to be made as well as it is. It looks like it has deep ribs underneath the casting to prevent warping, which is really good.

The little Craftsman table is the same table as the new Ryobi, and is made by the same manufacturer that makes the Ryobi and Craftsman power tools. I think they do some work for Bosch too, as some Craftsman router parts come in Bosch bags, and one of the older Craftsman routers I saw is a dead ringer for the Bosch plunge routers out now. Plus, if you look at Bosch's line of router tables, you will find them the same as the Craftsman.

The stamped steel tables, I don't know how well they work, so I wont comment on them. The cast iron wings and table tops, though, they say they work really well.

I bought one of those new full size tables that Grizzly was selling with the thick MDF top. To be honest, I've not had any problems with it, except for the router plate. The table is the same one being re-branded by several other router stores.

What I needed was a shorter table because I'm handicapped. When I received the Grizzly, I used the steel base for a Ryobi table saw, which shortened the height to just where I wanted it. I had to drill new mounting holes under the table top though, to match the base, but it worked well.

I mounted one of the new Craftsman 2-1/4 HP plunge routers underneath, which is made by the same company mentioned above, and has above the table adjustment.

I also made a table sled, and I use it more than the fence it seems. I used an Incra-Jig on the sleds fence for a stop locater, and I can get very precise cuts, to 1/32" each time.

I am going to build a new router table, but this was how I done it to get there, as I needed one quick like you did.


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

WillMatney said:


> Bill,
> It surprises me that the Wolfcraft seems to be made as well as it is. It looks like it has deep ribs underneath the casting to prevent warping, which is really good.


The Wolfcraft is a lot more functional than the 'micro-mdf' unit. The router I am using in it need's to be lowered some for the pistol grip handles reciever to clear a underside support rail on the table. I cut out a section of 3/8 plywood and made an adapter plate to get it mounted securely and level.

The accessory kit with the router plate for my TS hasn't arrived yet, but it has finally shipped. Given they no longer make the saw, I am content being able to get it at all! It will be interesting to see how that works out as a table.

The best way I know how to figure out what I want is to try using lots of different tables, so that's the way it is unfolding.


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## WillMatney (Oct 6, 2011)

Bill,

It really surprises me that they allowed the designer of the Wolfcraft aluminum top to put as much aluminum into the casting as they did. By looking at your new pics above, it looks like some of the ribs are at least 1" deep, or more, and the others around 3/8" to 1/2" deep, which would really make a very stiff table. Most of the ones I've seen by others are not nearly made this stout. I may end up buying one of these for a portable table myself.

What it the Miter Slot size in this table? Hopefully, its a standard 3/4" wide one.


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## billg71 (Mar 25, 2011)

Here's mine:


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Will, the miter slot is 3/4. The top is quite rigid and I haven't detected it flexing at all. One feature designed into the top that I didn't notice until reading the book is pretty cool. There is an extra set of holes that sort of blend in with the router mounting holes. They are 1/16 to 1/8" to the right side of center and for mounting a box joint guide/slide bar. Two screws and a chunk of bar stock the same profile as the box joint finger and the table top has the jig built in.




WillMatney said:


> Bill,
> 
> It really surprises me that they allowed the designer of the Wolfcraft aluminum top to put as much aluminum into the casting as they did. By looking at your new pics above, it looks like some of the ribs are at least 1" deep, or more, and the others around 3/8" to 1/2" deep, which would really make a very stiff table. Most of the ones I've seen by others are not nearly made this stout. I may end up buying one of these for a portable table myself.
> 
> What it the Miter Slot size in this table? Hopefully, its a standard 3/4" wide one.


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

billg71 said:


> Here's mine:


Very nicely done Bill! Your setup has a lot in common with the 'dream station' I would like to build out some day. The 'universal tracking & fencing' that support a combined routing and table saw top in particular. In my case I want to put my Radial arm saw on the left side of the TS.


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## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

Bill, not sure, but if radial saw was to left of table saw wouldn't that restrict what you could do on TS? (like ripping wider pieces?)


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## billg71 (Mar 25, 2011)

wbh1963 said:


> Very nicely done Bill! Your setup has a lot in common with the 'dream station' I would like to build out some day. The 'universal tracking & fencing' that support a combined routing and table saw top in particular. In my case I want to put my Radial arm saw on the left side of the TS.


Thanks, Bill. It turned out rather nicely, everything works and the tops are all in the same plane. I find myself flipping the fence for the router table though, because the carriage sticks out too far when I'm using the router and I can't walk around it in my small shop area.

The Incra setup is a dream come true! I love the accuracy and repeatability, no more bumping "just a smidge" only to find out you got two smidges plus a cat-hair.  I've been running a PC 892VS in the Jessem lift but just got a 7518 to upgrade that with.

The only weak part of the setup is the Bosch saw and I just picked up a replacement for that. (see photo). Amazingly, it's only 1/4" taller than the Bosch so all I have to do is shim up the router top with some strips or ply. Also going to add a couple of casters, that PM is one heavy beast!

Thanks again, nice forum you guys have here. I've been lurking for some time, figured I should add to the discussion when I can help.

Best,
Bill


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## Chubbo (Feb 20, 2012)

Here are mine, a Bulldog ProLift in one of their cast iron table extentions for a Delta 10" Contractor Table Saw on the left end, and a home made table mount, built into a table extention/roll around stand for the saw, on the right end. This home made table mount also holds in place of the router, a Bosch jig saw. My other router table is a Shop Center 6-in-1 vertical/horizontal routing machine shown in the background. I really want to get a
overhead router to make my routing complete.
Chubbo


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Nice set up Dude!!!!
I wonder if we will ever complete the ways we find to employ the router I have several ideas for overhead and then overhead with pantograph oh and lets build pin arm and tabletop gantry instead of skiis


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Hi, Chubbo.

I like the layout of your table. Is it made out of MDF? Did you apply some coat to it?

Best regards.


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Big Steve said:


> Bill, not sure, but if radial saw was to left of table saw wouldn't that restrict what you could do on TS? (like ripping wider pieces?)


That is a very valid point Steve. Thanks for bringing it up. They are both sitting along the same wall now, with the RAS to the far left, a Drill press on a cart and then the TS that also has a 'Router Table Add-On' on the right side of it. Because it is back up against a wall, the TS rarely gets used where it sits. I wheel it on out into the driveway, or at least as far as the garage door.

RAS to the right of the TS has some potential to it. It would leave the TS that much closer to where it gets moved to the most often for use. The only down side to that switch would highlight my staggering lack of 'dust collection stuff'. Reasonable efforts to keep most of the 'saw dust making' activity close to the garage doors have allowed me to procrastinate on implementing long term solutions in that area.

Thanks again for your comment.


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## Chubbo (Feb 20, 2012)

Alexis:
The right table top extention came with the saw as I bought it used. It is mdf with some kind of hard coating. I cut the tracks and the router & jigsaw inserts into it, and built the fence. The 
3rd. picture, displayed on the right shows it better.
Chubbo


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## Doctor Atomo (Feb 23, 2012)

I love it! the perfect jobsite router! I'm building one!


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## Doctor Atomo (Feb 23, 2012)

Hm, I guess I don't know how to use the forum! I was referring to jw2170's Workmate based table all the way back on page 2!


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## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

Here is my Custom Combo Table that I finished in December it has the following functions
<1> Stockroom supply 24” sander on left side. 
<2> Craftsman 10” Contractors saw in Middle.
<3> Lighted Enclosed Router Table Porta Cable 7539 Router
<4> Custom dust collection with individual homemade blast gates. I also have parts for overhead dust collection for saw blade guard and router fence. Just haven’t installed it yet.
<5>Total storage 17 drawers 90% heavy roller slides scarfed from trash.
<6> Incra TS-32 Fence setup
<7>Charging Station for my cordless tools.
<8< Whole cabinet is on lockable rollers in order to be able to move it around when needed.
This took me a year from time of conception until completion I Finaly got the time to work on it. The top was made from an old conference room table that was being thrown in the trash 1.5” thick Laminate both sides. Cabinet is ¾” Burch Plywood with Maple face frame using pocket hole joinery. I still have to install some T-Track and Stain the cabinet (Notice the protective coating in cabinet door).
Attached Thumbnails


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## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

Roger0220 said:


> Here is my Custom Combo Table that I finished in December it has the following functions
> <1> Stockroom supply 24” sander on left side.
> <2> Craftsman 10” Contractors saw in Middle.
> <3> Lighted Enclosed Router Table Porta Cable 7539 Router
> ...


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## Tin man (Mar 4, 2012)

*Here is my router Table*

I built this about 8-9 years ago from an article I seen in a magazine. The top is from an old desk top at a school. I have found the fence and the dust collection to work quite well. I built a little box around the router base that I mounted for dust removal, but left the front of it open to suck air in through. I have found that adjusting the router height from the front is very easy. After looking at some of the other tables here I think I'm gonna add some drawers though.


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## suffolk.reef (Jan 30, 2012)

*In Progress*

I am in progress of building my new router station. I found an old dry sink (free) and realy did not have a place to put it. So I decided instead of building a who new station for my new router set up I would rip the top of it off and build a new to for it. The top is a 1.25 inch desk top that I found in the dumpster at work. Invested in this progect so far is the Rout-R-Lift II, a PC 892, Miter track and the Incra LS Supper System and Wonder Fence. I will update with some more pics as the build continues and will add in the demensions once I get home.


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## Kao3133 (Jan 30, 2012)

Finshed mine last weekend. Overall pretty happy with it, a few things I still have to fix, but for my first cabinet I'm pleased!  
Any suggestions are welcome!


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Hello Gang,
Wow, can't believe my thread is still going! So many great ideas, just when I think that’s all; someone posts a new idea. My hat is off to you all! Great job!
An update to those of you has been asking about my son. He is no longer able to work in his shop. In fact he has sold all but his mini-lathe and a few hand tools. He was such a active man, this has been really hard on him. 

“Dan” I purchased the shut off switches from Rockler, they have changed it a little and increased the price since I purchased mine. Peach Tree Woodworking and Amazon have them too. If you do a Google search for ‘Power tool safety switch’ you might find one without the cords. Sorry, I’m took so long in responding to you, I don’t get here as often as I use to.
Harry


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Hi, Mark.

I liked the detal to fix the fence to the top of the table. Can you give some details about it? I'm talking about picture No. 3.

All the best.


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## camerio1 (Mar 23, 2012)

Here is a picture of my Veritas table route that I fixed at one end of my Mark 520


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## Scottey66 (Feb 1, 2012)

*my new table*

Hi all nearly finished my new table, made from kitchen worktop left overs and other free stuff. only cost was insert plate and the NVR switch.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Looks like you are ready for business Mike. Is your mounting plate slightly convex? I know the Rousseau plate is sold under license in the UK by Trend.


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Hi Gang,
You may remember me telling you that my son (the one I started this thread for) now has MS.(Multiple sclerosis) and had to close his cabinet shop and sell most of his equipment!
Like me he has sawdust in his blood; he has found something he can do on his mini-lathe.
He calls these tiny bird houses Mosquito Houses, made from exotic and regular woods.
Thought you might enjoy seeing them and that they might encourage any of you with disabilities not to give up.
Harry


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## camerio1 (Mar 23, 2012)

Old_Chipper said:


> Hi Gang,
> You may remember me telling you that my son (the one I started this thread for) now has MS.(Multiple sclerosis) and had to close his cabinet shop and sell most of his equipment!
> Like me he has sawdust in his blood; he has found something he can do on his mini-lathe.
> He calls these tiny bird houses Mosquito Houses, made from exotic and regular woods.
> ...


Well done, those are pretty interesting and a very nice idea of something to do with smaller pieces of wood, outside of the pepper mills and the like .
Nice work. Thanks for showing this to us.


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## Scottey66 (Feb 1, 2012)

Scottey66 said:


> Hi all nearly finished my new table, made from kitchen worktop left overs and other free stuff. only cost was insert plate and the NVR switch.


Hi mike
Yes it is possibly too much in my view. But it is working great. Still need to finish off at some point
Cheers
Mike


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Mike, that slightly convex plate is a patented design. This assures your wood always passes over the bit at the same height. Norm used one of these plates on his NYW table for 10 years. The Rousseau or Trend licensed version are the only plates with this feature; All other plates should be flat. I have used several of them in different tables over the years and have been pleased with them.


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## mr500 (Mar 27, 2012)

So many tables so little time lol


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## trojan62 (May 12, 2011)

*new table build*

hi,
here`s mine i built the other weekend, ive already posted it in the projects section but thought people might get some ideas from it in this section.
whole table is chipboard and fence is pine. from plans of a table in wood magazine number 4.
only thing i had to pay for was the nvr switch.
hope it gives some people some ideas.
cheers.


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Old_Chipper said:


> Hi Gang,
> You may remember me telling you that my son (the one I started this thread for) now has MS.(Multiple sclerosis) and had to close his cabinet shop and sell most of his equipment!
> Like me he has sawdust in his blood; he has found something he can do on his mini-lathe.
> He calls these tiny bird houses Mosquito Houses, made from exotic and regular woods.
> ...


Hi Harry,

Thanks for dropping in and sharing the pics of your Son's latest creations. It is good to see that he still embraces those areas of woodcraft that he still can.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Doctor Atomo said:


> Hm, I guess I don't know how to use the forum! I was referring to jw2170's Workmate based table all the way back on page 2!


Thanks Jubilee,

I still favour the "keep it simple, stupid' method - that way,I don't have to think too much.:lol:


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

*Acute eyes, Mike.*



Mike said:


> Looks like you are ready for business Mike. Is your mounting plate slightly convex? I know the Rousseau plate is sold under license in the UK by Trend.


Hi, Mike.

How did you realize about the plate's convexity?


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

trojan62 said:


> hi,
> here`s mine i built the other weekend, ive already posted it in the projects section but thought people might get some ideas from it in this section.
> whole table is chipboard and fence is pine. from plans of a table in wood magazine number 4.
> only thing i had to pay for was the nvr switch.
> ...


Hi, trojan62.

Looking at the pictures in your post, I'd like to know what did you use for the t-racks in the top of the table and the fence.

Best regards!


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

here is mine as it is right now ... it is simple but it does what i need it to do

yes, i know, i still need to make an insert plate, but i wanted to try out my little circle jig first.

this is a 9" 1/2" ply circle, playing with ideas for my band saw project.


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## Scottey66 (Feb 1, 2012)

papasombre said:


> Hi, Mike.
> 
> How did you realize about the plate's convexity?


Hi alexis

When I inserted the plate I ran my square over it to see it was level all round, at first I thought it was me, then read the info that came with it. Now I have got used to it, it really does work well. I'm using a tunel guide on top of small pieces and a feather board and I'm getting really clean cuts. My first attempt at a table router was a shop made insert but this trend one way out performs a flat surface in my view
Cheers
Mike


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

**Envy**



bigdogmedia66 said:


> Here's mine that I finished a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> TS/RT combo


Nice shop!!! You let the maid into your workshop?!


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## Larkan (Apr 13, 2012)

Oh man they are beautiful. Just looking for ideas myself.


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## Larkan (Apr 13, 2012)

Man that's a nice table.....
cheers


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## trojan62 (May 12, 2011)

hi papasombre,
i used some spare draw runners that i had laying about, they work just as good as t track.

see ya....


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

billg71 said:


> Here's mine:


Now THAT is maximizing work and storage space and probably the best arguement for a combined TS\TR setup!

Thanks for sharing.


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## garyhill (Sep 26, 2010)

Old_Chipper said:


> Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.
> So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.


Here is one that I made for beginners with small spaces. It is 24x28x10 and sits on a low bench or cart, the fence is clamped on. It still produces rail and stile doors, pull handles, etc.


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## monty.smith (May 2, 2012)

What an excellent post, and some very fine tables, you all are very inspiring. I can see I have a ways to go yet before I have a proper shop, thank you all for your input and Pic's.

Monty


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## packattack (Mar 6, 2012)

WOW!! These are some serious router tables. I am very impressed. Motivates one to strive towards craftsmanship...


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## hempstead (Apr 22, 2012)

*feel better everyone*

For those of you impressed (rightfully so) with the cool router tables you have seen, check out a crappy one. Yes, that is 3/4" unlaminated MDF with a poor fit for the insert. Yes, the DC is cobbled together. Yes, the fence may or may not be 90 degrees to the table. Yes, I have no idea what I am doing.

So don't get intimidated by all the great ones, all you have to do is build a slightly less crappy one and you're already in better shape than I am (and than many others who don't post their similarly lousy router tables).


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Great table Tim because it fulfills your purpose


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

*My RT in a TS extension*

After I bought my Vega fence for my old TS I had a big hole to fill Fortuneatly I had a masterforce RT that fell my way So I fitted the top into the hole. The plastic fence that came with the top was adapted into a plywood carriage that clamps to TS fence There is a craftsman 2 1/4 mounted below


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

*Evolving Table*

The table idea began with a model in a wood magazine book that had minitack in table edge to mount the fence. I ended up using clamps instead of the track. But I found it useful to mount an LS positioner or a pin arm or a dust collector with bit guard


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

hempstead said:


> For those of you impressed (rightfully so) with the cool router tables you have seen, check out a crappy one. Yes, that is 3/4" unlaminated MDF with a poor fit for the insert. Yes, the DC is cobbled together. Yes, the fence may or may not be 90 degrees to the table. Yes, I have no idea what I am doing.
> 
> So don't get intimidated by all the great ones, all you have to do is build a slightly less crappy one and you're already in better shape than I am (and than many others who don't post their similarly lousy router tables).


compared to mine, that one is beautiful and much more functional.


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## rcaputo007 (Jun 21, 2012)

any suggestions for my first Router Table. Not enough experiance yet to build one on the elaborate ones I've viewed on this post. Maybe as I gain experience I will build one. But, for now I just want a decent table to start learning and using my router on a fixed base. Any suggestions.??


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## jerrag (Sep 23, 2008)

*My Router Table*

I had put up some pics of mine on another post but here are some photo's of mine, I have yet to build the fence but have mounted t-tracks for it. I had some trouble getting the slots to cut right, I was using a new bit, and just figured it was a flush trim bit, however after having to adjust and patch and re adjust all my cuts, I finally took a close look at the blasted thing only to find that the bearing was oversize leaving all my cuts undersized. At least that's my story and I am sticking to it. (that will teach me for buying bits on Ebay)

I modified an old TV stand that I picked up used at a State Surplus outfit, I think it came from one of the colleges and was used for those huge old picture tube type televisions in the classrooms. It has very large wheels so it even rolls nicely on my dirt floor garage (our state taxes garages as living space if you have a floor in them so most garages here are dirt floor to avoid taxes. I am planning on putting in a floor once I have enough money ahead, if that ever happens.


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## woodchuck44 (Aug 25, 2007)

you guys have very immpressive tables think I will start from scratch and build another one


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## woodchuck44 (Aug 25, 2007)

sure wish u would have shown back of the tables that seems to be a trouble spot for me


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## bgriggs (Nov 26, 2008)

That looks nice BobN. I also see you use a tracksaw too. I have the same one and use it all the time. I like the was the Super Smart Router Kit cuts Dadoes.

Bill


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## bgriggs (Nov 26, 2008)

Roger0220 said:


> Roger0220 said:
> 
> 
> > Here is my Custom Combo Table that I finished in December it has the following functions
> ...


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## Mayhem (Jul 15, 2012)

*Mill Right table*



bgriggs said:


> Roger0220 said:
> 
> 
> > That is awesome. I never think to mount the chargers to something. Thanks for the idea.
> ...


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## EastTXSierra (Jan 21, 2012)

*Small-shop Router table*

This is my first post so I figured Id start by showing my router table. It was also my first attempt at any type of "cabinet" construction. I'm happy with how it turned out and it definitely works for my little DIY garage setup.

The top measures 25.5"W/19.5"D and the whole assembly stands 37" tall on locking casters.

















































I built a straight fence for it that works similar to my table saw fence using a toggle clamp.

















I also built a split fence for it.

















The router and shop vac are wired to the same switch









Thanks for lookin'


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## don_chr (Feb 20, 2011)

*New Router Table Cabinet*

I've been watching this thread for a while planning a cabinet for my Incra router table top. I used two fixed casters and two rotating, fully locking casters. I wired an outlet in the router compartment that has one switched outlet for the router and one always on outlet to power an AC adater for my Wixey router height readout. I added some blocking inside the router compartment to help the chips flow into the dust collection system. I made the dove tail drawer boxes using my incra dovetail accessories - my first attempt at this. I used the halfblind dove tails. I ran the power cord out the far end of the cabinet and added a cord winder. Thanks for everyone sharing their router table pics.

Don


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Very nice job, Don!


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## mseries (Sep 16, 2012)

My table is very very simple, small and cheap to make. I am afraid my post count is too low at present to show pictures and anyway I seem to have mislaid them at present. I'll take some more. The top is a very old kitchen worktop which used to serve as a TV stand for many years. It's supported on my B&D Workmate on two supports about 70mm high. The router is bolted directly to the underside in a recess so the thickness of the top is about 12 mm. The top surface has a replaceable MDF disk, 6mm thick which is replaced with a new one with larger cutter aperture if needed. I made a spit fence which had two adjustable faces and moves forward and back on slots secured by bolts and wing nuts at the back of the table.

I made this about 15 years ago when I first started routing, it does the job, I used it today and I have started to think about making a new one but don't really have a reason to, this one does everything I need. I may make a new one a little larger, this one is about 30cm x 60 cm, a new one will be higher above the Workmate.


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

*Mine is under progress*

Hi out there.

I have checked all this thread. I´ve gathered a lot of information from here to start to build my router table. All the wood is recycled from boxes that I built to bring my personal stuff from China. Only the hardware was bought. Here are some pictures.

I needed more than a week to assembly this but I am happy with it. When I arrived to my home I had a lot of woodworking projects to do but I gave first priority to the RT. Hope to finish it before my holidays are over.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Good job, Alexis.


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## Tool Home LLC (Sep 18, 2012)

Here's one of my router tables...

In the images below, you will see both of my router tables. I'll freely admit that they are a little unconventional.


Tom


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Tool Home LLC said:


> Here's one of my router tables...
> 
> In the images below, you will see both of my router tables. I'll freely admit that they are a little unconventional.
> 
> ...


Nothing conventional, Tom. 

No wood in your tables.


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## robbyd (Sep 19, 2012)

nice job, the fence is different than most


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## robbyd (Sep 19, 2012)

good advice , and i think applies well to myself also. i've been working on adding a router table to my portable ryobi table saw . i used the laminate top from a office desk and figured out a plate . my thoughts are now moving to the fence . my thoughts are to build 1 that can be added to the table saw fence .


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## robbyd (Sep 19, 2012)

nice link thanks now i have more reading


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## p2rocks (Apr 13, 2010)

*incra table*















now one of my favorite tools right behind the shopsmith that started it all. Hope the pic come thru


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## robbyd (Sep 19, 2012)

*very nice*



kolias said:


> My table mounted router was designed to save space in my limited size workshop. It has been proven to be an excellent design for my needs and I’m very happy with it. More info can be found in my gallery


very nice indeed , i've been working on an add on piece for my portable ryob table saw as i have little space . searching for the thread now . again it looks great


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## robbyd (Sep 19, 2012)

*nice work*



crappywoodworker said:


> Here are the updated photos. I have several fences that attach to the TS sliding fence. The first one (not pictured) had too wide of an opening. The current one seems to work well. The router has a bolted on dust collector that I have a hose attached to. It works brilliantly, collecting 99% of the debris. The left hose is for the router, the right hose for the table saw. There is a small cut-out along the length of the fence to clean away debris as the piece slides along it. Crude-but it works. I will eventually rebuild it a "pretty it up" with better wood and clean joinery. I just tossed this one together in a short amount of time.
> 
> The table saw/router table with my attached out-feed table takes up half of the garage when fully extended but tucks away nicely when the out-feed table is folded down.


nice , i have limited space and have been working on one for my ryobi table saw . i use my table saw fence and clamp my router fence to it. i had thought about the similar design and may still modify similarly .rob


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

p2rocks said:


> View attachment 55245
> 
> 
> View attachment 55246
> now one of my favorite tools right behind the shopsmith that started it all. Hope the pic come thru


Holy cow! Love the table-top hardware, care to share any details, starting my router table project tomorrow, maybe tonight if I can find some plans for the bottom section that I like. The top and fencing hardware, etc, will be a challenge in itself of course. It looks like that fence is a self-squaring device that extends from the center of the fence back/forth?


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

don_chr said:


> I've been watching this thread for a while planning a cabinet for my Incra router table top. I used two fixed casters and two rotating, fully locking casters. I wired an outlet in the router compartment that has one switched outlet for the router and one always on outlet to power an AC adater for my Wixey router height readout. I added some blocking inside the router compartment to help the chips flow into the dust collection system. I made the dove tail drawer boxes using my incra dovetail accessories - my first attempt at this. I used the halfblind dove tails. I ran the power cord out the far end of the cabinet and added a cord winder. Thanks for everyone sharing their router table pics.
> 
> Don


Well after a bit of searching found what I needed on this system, interesting setup for sure.


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## sjama6678 (Aug 22, 2012)

*Massachusetts, table*



Old_Chipper said:


> Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.
> So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.


Hi, here is my shop made table.
The top is 1 1/2" thick, 3/4" MDF on bottom, 3/4" 15 Ply Finnish Birch w/Phenolic resin coat-both sides, JessEm Plate, 1" Fence double Melemine, inserted T tracks, inserted Incra miter track, Aluminum fence support, dust collector up and down (under table around router base contained) shop made Cab copy of BenchDog. Each side hold 99 bits, middle door to router, bottom drawer and door to compartment, on two locking wheels, two fixed.


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## matermark (Nov 28, 2011)

Hey, that looks great! 

What is that steel rod for? at first I thought it had sliding doors on it but the rod goes through the partition wall of the main router boxed-in area...


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Hi, Phillips.

When I shown your first picture to my wife, she said that it would be a shame to do some woodworking with your router table because it is so beautiful compared with mine which is under construction now. I think she is right.

Congratulations!!!


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## MACswag (Feb 28, 2012)

*Jelous*



bigdogmedia66 said:


> Here's mine that I finished a couple of weeks ago.
> 
> TS/RT combo


I'm sick,sick,sick,aaaaaaahhhhhhh.MAC


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## MACswag (Feb 28, 2012)

*R/t*



sjama6678 said:


> Hi, here is my shop made table.
> The top is 1 1/2" thick, 3/4" MDF on bottom, 3/4" 15 Ply Finnish Birch w/Phenolic resin coat-both sides, JessEm Plate, 1" Fence double Melemine, inserted T tracks, inserted Incra miter track, Aluminum fence support, dust collector up and down (under table around router base contained) shop made Cab copy of BenchDog. Each side hold 99 bits, middle door to router, bottom drawer and door to compartment, on two locking wheels, two fixed.


That is the best and most simple I've seen on here,If I can make the measurements in my head I'l:sold: have a go at making it,thanks for the post, MAC


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## MACswag (Feb 28, 2012)

Mayhem said:


> bgriggs said:
> 
> 
> > Here is my Mill Right table. I didn't make it but it sure is nice to work with.
> ...


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## Jim Howerton (Nov 25, 2012)

*Pictures of router tables*

Well, I just joined the forum late last night and "show me your router table' is the first thread I looked at. I like to keep things simple and recycle when ever possible. I had an old desk that I had disassembled. It was made out of 1 1/2 thick walnut veneered particle board and weighed around 400 #'s. I used the top for my main workbench and the ends for 2 router tables.The bases are baltic birch plywood. I'm not done with the router cabinets. I still need to finish the vacuum system,
The one with the Jessum fence gets the most use. The other one is for pattern and freehand routing. It's nice having 2 setups and a shaper when I'm making cabinet doors. Everything in my shop is the same height as well, very convenient.


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## WoodNutPat (Feb 22, 2012)

Wow, two router tables. that must be nice when doing doors. looks great. I also have the Jessem set up and love it.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Here is mine ... it is a 24x48" table with spaces for 3 routers. It is made from 3/4" ply topped with 1/2" ply. It has 10x12" insert plates, made from the same 1/2" ply.

I embedded tee-nuts between the 2 pieces of the top so that it can be bolted to whatever base it ends up on. 

The outer edge still needs to be cleaned up and it needs to be sealed.


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## richtink (Dec 5, 2012)

*Table of necessity*

This was a two day build because I needed it quickly. The laminate top was free from a local cabinet shop. Everything else was scrap lumber. I bought the knobs prior to needing them when I made a dado sled for shelves in a stereo center.

After looking at all of the tables in this thread, well most of them anyway, I thought I would show something functional, but not pretty. At the time, routing was just a necessary step in some projects.


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## Originalbart (Jun 2, 2006)

wbh1963 said:


> Very nicely done Bill! Your setup has a lot in common with the 'dream station' I would like to build out some day. The 'universal tracking & fencing' that support a combined routing and table saw top in particular. In my case I want to put my Radial arm saw on the left side of the TS.


The RAS belongs along a long wall not next to the Table-saw. Your dream station sounds more like a nightmare station.

I have both a 12' & a 10" RAS as well as a sliding CMS. Raised the son of a cabinet maker & custom home builder The RAS's are just a few of Dad's tools that I have.


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## seahawk65 (Oct 9, 2012)

*Very Basic table*

Mine is a very basic table, but does have a lift..:cray:


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## stevetbo (Dec 5, 2012)

*Nearly finished my table*

Still need to do the finish work... but its too cold right now, so that will be done in the spring. I researched quite a bit... and this thread really helped. Thanks for posting your pictures and sharing what you know.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

*Router\Table Saw Combo*



stevetbo said:


> Still need to do the finish work... but its too cold right now, so that will be done in the spring. I researched quite a bit... and this thread really helped. Thanks for posting your pictures and sharing what you know.


Looks like you really added a lot of storage capacity for your router and your table saw. I wish I had the room to do something like that. My garage is overflowing with stuff. I really need to get started on my router table cabinet. Thanks for sharing your design and taking time to post photos. I love to "borrow" ideas wherever I can and from whomever I can. I really like your set up. Just one question. Is this a permanent installation or is it all on casters so it can be moved?

Thanks for sharing and don't forget to post more photos after it is out of the staining\finishing booth!


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## Originalbart (Jun 2, 2006)

timbertailor said:


> Looks like you really added a lot of storage capacity for your router and your table saw. I wish I had the room to do something like that. My garage is overflowing with stuff. I really need to get started on my router table cabinet. Thanks for sharing your design and taking time to post photos. I love to "borrow" ideas wherever I can and from whomever I can. I really like your set up. Just one question.* Is this a permanent installation or is it all on casters so it can be moved?*
> 
> Thanks for sharing and don't forget to post more photos after it is out of the staining\finishing booth!


In the second pic it appears that the whole assembly sets on a common base & is fastened into the fence system so from what I see the system is a permanent installation. The saw doesn't appear to have any wheels underneath it either.


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## stevetbo (Dec 5, 2012)

This set up does not move. My shop floor is asphalt....bumpy and uneven...which makes it difficult to move and keep everything lined up and somewhat level. I have seen some plans and pictures with of ts and router on wheels. That would be nice. 
The open shelf to the right of the router box is large enough to hold my router fence when I need it out of the way. The next task is to rebuild the ts outfeed so it extends completely across to the front edge of the router table. If you look closely you can see a T-slotted bar that extends past the table. right now this is just hanging out there... not installed actually. So the table saw outfeed will be built out to include and support that bar


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

*Don't know how I missed it!*



bigdogmedia66 said:


> Here's the link to mine that I recently finished. It's a Jet contractor saw, PRL-V2 lift and Porter Cable 7518. I'm very happy with the outcome.
> 
> Table saw/router cabinet


That is a top notch layout for a table saw\router table combo bench. I love that it is on casters for mobility. I would love to be able to accommodate something that large in my shop. I just have way too much stuff in my garage. I also really love the dust collection system you have. Something I have always said I was going to do and just have not gotten to it. I need a bigger garage.

Yours looks so neat and organized. Top marks sir. Brilliant!!!


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

*Finally finished the darned thing*

RMilgie and I have been working on and off on this thing the last 2 years. It's in the middle school shop where our WW group meets on Tuesday nights.
Finally got the legs on it, so now we don't have to store that 50 pound box on top of a cabinet.
Whew.


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## wolfcreekmt (Jun 16, 2012)

*Just finished my table using Incra fence.*

I hope I am posting this correctly. Anyway, here is the router table that I just built.


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## Originalbart (Jun 2, 2006)

So how well does you DC system for the router work & does it help to keep the router cool? I like you design.


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## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

wolfcreekmt said:


> I hope I am posting this correctly. Anyway, here is the router table that I just built.


Very very very cool! Love those handles, could you post some more photos and perhaps explain how you constructed the pull section?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

wolfcreekmt said:


> I hope I am posting this correctly. Anyway, here is the router table that I just built.


The pulls for the drawers are a nice touch. I may have to steal that idea when I get to my table. Mine will be very similar to yours. I have the same table top, fence, and a similar lift.

I have been restoring an old car so I hope to get to my table this spring.

Thanks for sharing. You did a nice job!!!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

wolfcreekmt said:


> I hope I am posting this correctly. Anyway, here is the router table that I just built.



Welcome to the forum.

I see you put that Incra fence to good use......


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## camoz (Jan 31, 2012)

Just started using this forum, this is a great thread.

Cheers,

Camoz


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## albuilder (Jan 31, 2012)

*Finally finished it*

After two months finally finished it.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

*Nice Job!*



albuilder said:


> After two months finally finished it.


It looks like you started with a kit. Did that make things easier?

And wood floors in your shop? I am jealous. Most of us are in a garage standing all day on hard concrete.

I also see signs of a central vacuum system. Growing greener.........:bad:

Looks like you have a great looking table that will provide a nice size work area, wonderful, repeatable accuracy with the fence combination, ample storage, and low dust production. What else could you ask for?

Nice job and thanks for taking time to post some photos for us. Gives all of us some ideas for our own builds.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

albuilder said:


> After two months finally finished it.


no wonder...
that is a work of art...

I dumpster dove and and added about 20 bucks...


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## nicbate (May 17, 2011)

WOW! That is an amazing router table.


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## Noek (Dec 26, 2012)

My Kreg Hybrid


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## Maxmilon (Dec 24, 2012)

*My Last Router Table*

My last router table. I have had a few. I took all my past needs and looked at the best pictures on the web and came up with this. It has a large work surface and fence for cabinet making but also incorporates my Incra fence for small box making.
I made it the same height as my table saw so I can use it as an extension table when sawing sheet goods. 
I also put one in my table saw to be able to set up both at the same time for things like rail and stile doors and panels
I put the T-track in that one also for the Incra fence.
The router table has a PC 3-1/2 HP router motor and the saw table has a Bosch 1617EAVS.
The hardest part was my Benchdog lift was broken so I had to make the cabinet without a router table. I don't have a dado blade so I routed all the dados by hand.
After the cabinet was put together I used it to make the drawers and door.
By the way. I have since repaired my benchdog lift. It is about 10 years old. I called benchdog who is now owned by Rockler. They were great. It took them about a week and half to find my old style screw lift. They sent it to me free. I hhad to only pay the shipping.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great looking cabinet, Mike.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

http://www.routerforums.com/kp91s-gallery/1708-router-table-upgrade.html#post18002


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## Maxmilon (Dec 24, 2012)

Thank You James
It was a very fun project to build.


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## Purelife Products (Mar 7, 2013)

Nice set-up.
Michael


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## wolfcreekmt (Jun 16, 2012)

It work well. So far, its just been hooked to a sears shop vac. I am going to plug it into the dust collection system soon. No heat issues.


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## Badlandsbuzz (Jul 21, 2010)

When a router table starts looking better than my household furniture, it is time to start thinking about how I'm building my shop tools.


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## Maxmilon (Dec 24, 2012)

It's even nicer when they function better than they look.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

I wanted to learn how to build raised panels so I follow a set plans from sommerfeld tools
And this what I ended up with


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Semipro said:


> I want to learn how to build raise panels so I follow a set plans from sommerfeld tools
> And this what end up with


Very nice, John. I would move that inside but would probably get in trouble.......


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Well james thank you it is about 10 years old and my wife did not think i should put a router table on top. But it was a good learning curve, have used it to build a lot doors since.
Love my hobby it so great to take a flat board and turn it in some useful and beautiful


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## adot45 (Feb 6, 2013)

Semipro said:


> I wanted to learn how to build raised panels so I follow a set plans from sommerfeld tools
> And this what I ended up with


Wow John, great looking table base. That is exactly why I got interested in routers. I was wondering how you held the corners together?


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Dave
Marc sommerfeld sells a tongue and groove set, you put a tongue on one side a groove on the other, it is matching set and will align automatically. He has Video,s that explain cabinet making and the use of this set. I showed the back will attach picture of front


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Dave 
Here is Cedar chest that I design and build for my daughter using the same techniques


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## adot45 (Feb 6, 2013)

Both pieces are fine work John, excellent in fact. I'll get the DVD and start watching! Thanks for the pictures and the info.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice job John, did you use the CMT system for your panels ??


Buy CMT 3D Router Carver System - Bit ONLY Model RCS-BIT at Woodcraft

CMT RCS-STS 3D Router Carver System

==



Semipro said:


> Dave
> Here is Cedar chest that I design and build for my daughter using the same techniques


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

BJ
Yes, I am big fan of sommerfeld tools started way back when they sold cmt products.


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## brightw (Jul 14, 2009)

Well I tried to post pictures of my router table but I can not because I need 10 posts before I can post pictures. 

I think I will move on.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Brian, you can post photos now. Write your post and then click on the Go Advanced button. In the window that opens you will see a button below your message that says Manage Attachments. Click this and then browse to find the phot you want to upload and click open. If you want to add more photos repeat the process and when done click the upload button. Once the files are uploaded click the submit button.


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## panapat (Apr 5, 2013)

*Router table plans*

I found these plans online, would be interested in your comments.
crestonwood.com/plans.php]My Router Table Plans


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## rickster (Apr 5, 2013)

"I believe it was member Trap, that posted one with a tool chest in it, so thats where I got that idea."

Hey thanks Rusty for the picture. Now I know what to do with my old roll around tool box I don't use anymore.


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## mikelley (Aug 2, 2012)

Money can buy anything..............just kidding, three nice setups you have there!


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## AronD (Apr 3, 2013)

This is my no frills table, still need to add a tension board and run some vacuum lines.

The table is just something I threw together from 2x4 and 3/8" plywood. The top is covered in some laminated 1/4"ply that it had lying around and it was glued in place. The fence is angle iron I had in the stock pile as well as the aluminum mounting plate. I welded two nuts to the fence and ran bolts through to hold the fence after aligning. Its worked very well for what I've asked of it, and I have plans to add much more onto it.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Aron. As long as it does the job, that is all I look for in a table. How do you mount your router?. I did not notice any holes in the sub plate.


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## AronD (Apr 3, 2013)

There are 3 holes (third picture) that the router mounts to and hangs under the table. I'll get some pictures of the router actually mounted and post those some time.

This is the router I am using.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

There are lots of these small Craftsman routers out there and they are very easy to work with. You can remove the non switch hande to make adjustments under the table easier.


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## srestrepo (Apr 9, 2013)

attached is my incomplete version of my router table. Incomplete you may ask? well, i'm presently working on some drawers that i will mount under the router. this should give my humble table saw heft to keep it loaded down and also give me some more storage options for stuff.

the fence is just 3/4 pine that i had laying around and the top is only 3/4 birch 

i'm relatively new to wood working but i figured anytime that i can be handsfree while operating a tool and have my full focus on the material being cut, is probably if only marginally safer than doing it by hand. 

i also included a picture of my shop as my fiancee calls it, my house of horrors.

p.s. its my first post.


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## AronD (Apr 3, 2013)

Very nice, I like the still visible pencil lines on your table. It shows that you actually put thought behind a simple top to a table. Is that your bit/tool box on the back of the table? I might hake myself a box like that to store my pits in.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, Sebastian.


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## Buckyoneshot (Apr 14, 2013)

*Very nice*



albuilder said:


> After two months finally finished it.


Tomorrow I'm starting a build of what appears to be the same basic system you have. I bought the 43" table with the 27" incra positioner. I have one on my table saw and have come to enjoy it's accuracy and reproducibility to the point I don't know how I got along without it - after not having one for 40 years. What is the size of your table? I'm trying to visualize drawer size. 
Thanks, Don


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## newbirdhunter (Mar 25, 2013)

Kao3133 said:


> Finshed mine last weekend. Overall pretty happy with it, a few things I still have to fix, but for my first cabinet I'm pleased!
> Any suggestions are welcome!


I'd have to agree. Hope my first cabinet is as good.


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## newbirdhunter (Mar 25, 2013)

stevetbo said:


> Still need to do the finish work... but its too cold right now, so that will be done in the spring. I researched quite a bit... and this thread really helped. Thanks for posting your pictures and sharing what you know.


Very nice.


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## andrzejls (May 20, 2011)

*My new router table*

So my shop was under the water during the Sandy (I am in NY). All my tools were gone. Had to rebuild everything including my router table. Here is couple of pictures. My split fence is mounted on Freud SH-5 professional micro adjustable shaper, router lift is INCRA Mast-R-Lift II and digital readout for up and down location of the bit. Cabinet I build myself. I do not own a joiner so I use Freud SH-5 instead. I do some cabinet making so having INCRA lift and digital readout for tool positioning is great. Table top is also INCRA 24x32 and INCRA miter v27.


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## Buckyoneshot (Apr 14, 2013)

*Finished Router Table*

I just finished my table for the Incra Positioner system based on what I saw other do on this forum so it's really nothing new - other than for me. I'm very pleased with the way the whole thing works. The Positioner system really is as accurate as advertised. I've got one on both my table saw as well as this one. On the saw, when I set the measurement on 2 inches for example, the cut board literally measures 2.000". Cutting 1/32" strips is easy and reproducible plus they are cut on the outside of the blade so you're not trying to push a small strip between the blade and fence.
One thing I did a little differently on the table was to attach the cover (drawer front with the air holes for the dust collection system) in front of the router to the cabinet with rare earth permanent magnets. They are very strong and automatically center the cover to match the other drawer fronts.
Thanks for the ideas,
Don


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I like the colour of the drawer fronts, Don.

What timber is that?


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Very nice Don. Are you happy with the 27 x 43 table top? 

earl


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## Buckyoneshot (Apr 14, 2013)

Thank you James and Earl. The front is hickory and yes, I'm happy with the size of the table. I doubt I'll ever have the need to use the full length, however it's a wonderful and convenient spot to set things - which, as you know, quickly becomes a "dumping ground" for all sorts of things. But, the size allowed for wider drawers which are very handy.
Don


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

Don
Nice
did you build the dove tail drawers with the incra system?I have a ls 25 also,love it as I a sure you do an will continue to also
Al


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## Buckyoneshot (Apr 14, 2013)

Al, yes, they were the first cuts I made using the system. I used Baltic Birch which doesn't cut real cleanly on the back sides but what is visible looks great. I also found out how critical it is not to go to far when when using the little "sled" when cutting the tails. First time through I went a little too far and a brand new Freud dovetail cutter didn't like the metal bolt that holds the runner on.  Also, I found that when making the first back cut on the tails, if you cut as deep as what was suggested there just wasn't much left of the plywood. I reduced the cut depth by half and it worked just fine.
Don


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## WayneMahler (May 17, 2012)

Very nice job Don. I like the design and the colors. Good job.


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## TAS Bats (May 7, 2013)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Harry...
> 
> hope your son has as much fun building his, as i did mine...


Fine looking piece of work!


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## tmnt2210 (May 10, 2013)

Thats neat!


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

:dance3: I sure have enjoyed seeing what everyone else is doing. Always knew this forum has the best wood workers, hands down!
When I started this thread back in 09, I had no idea it would last this long! I have even found references to it on other forums. WOW is all I can say, keep up the great work!
REGARDS
the other Harry


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

*My Table*

My table is an old Craftsman 45.5cm (18”) by 33cm (13”). Its mounted to a 12mm concrete form plywood and then clamped to the top of the table saw. There is a 10 foot 10 gauge extension cord attached to the plywood with an outlet box. Ive used it for 8 or 9 years. I modified the fence when it was first put to use. I cut a metal “L” bracket, tapped some holes in the two pieces using them to give more height to the metal frame. They support the wood fence better. It can work as a split fence by changing the wood face.

I have often considered extending 3 sides but now feel it is just better to make a new one. The ridges are bitter sweet. They have little friction, especially when waxed. The down side smaller pieces tend to tilt between the ridges.:bad: The cross bar for the split fence is constantly in the way of the vacuum plenum, and the miter track is about useless. Hope to have the new table done shortly.


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## prhen (May 20, 2013)

Hi Mike,
Just saw your TS router table extension. Looks great! I'm planning the same and was wondering how you mounted the top. It looks as if you've used angle iron. If so, can you give me details...size, how attached and so on?
Many thanks,
Paul


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## justinhillpac (May 9, 2013)

Here is my KISS router table for my bosch 1617 router.
I used some melamine from the local hardware store. It's cheaper than 3/4 plywood so a simple choice for me. 

Also picked up the Grizzly router plate. No issues with it either. Loving my new Rockler quick release clamps as well. Much better than the C-clamps I started with.

Loving it so far, almost have the face frame done for some laundry room cabinets!

Edited so they show up as attachments instead of taking up the whole thread.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

KISS is good, Justin.

After all, it is just a tool..


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

justinhillpac said:


> Here is my KISS router table for my bosch 1617 router.
> I used some melamine from the local hardware store. It's cheaper than 3/4 plywood so a simple choice for me.
> 
> Also picked up the Grizzly router plate. No issues with it either. Loving my new Rockler quick release clamps as well. Much better than the C-clamps I started with.
> ...


Looks great Justin. Looking forward to some pictures of your work.


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## MarcNThyme (May 13, 2012)

Here is a shot of my table set up to process different width planks for finger joints.
The material widths vary from about 3" wide to approx. 8 3/4 wide.
The thickness is uniform at about 1.700".
I used old inline skate wheels to provide hold down and push back for holding he work as it travels over the cutter.
The mounting lip at the front attaches to he table via threaded inserts under the table top.
The hold down rollers are mounted to a tee bar mounted to the fence. The clamps at the end of the fence are to prevent the force on the rollers from lifting the fence


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## carlp. (Nov 3, 2012)

*use of inline skate wheels*

Hi Ron very good idea of yours i like that set up, I must try that on my big table. regards carl


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

Ron
Nice I like it.


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## wolfcreekmt (Jun 16, 2012)

*the hardware is blum*



cagenuts said:


> Very very very cool! Love could you post some more photos and perhaps explain how you constructed the pull section?


Hey there. It's Blum hardware. Find a local or internet dealer and ask them to send ALL of the Blum catalogues. They are invaluable.


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## wolfcreekmt (Jun 16, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> Welcome to the forum.
> 
> I see you put that Incra fence to good use......


Yep. Now a knuckle head like me can cut dovetails. Pretty cool equipment.


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## rodand1 (May 6, 2012)

*This router table vs. that router table*

Isn't it great that we all have our opinions, our likes and dislikes. 15 years ago I built a great router table from plans in Woodsmith magazine. I loved the table and used it about 10 years, then sold the house and ended up with a two car garage, instead of 3 and had to get rid of the table because of a lack of room. Now my router is built into the extension on my Unisaw. I built a cabinet around the router for dust collection. What I now realize that the end product is the same which ever table I use.


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## rodand1 (May 6, 2012)

Wow, I'd have to get an engineering degree to use some of those micro adjust router fences.


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## thm33578 (Aug 7, 2012)

nice!!!


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## Oakwerks (May 9, 2013)

My simple router cabinet with an RT1000 table, and dedicated Triton router...


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Kurt, I see all that I need in a router table......


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## berry (Oct 17, 2005)

What a great thread, lots of good ideas and discussion! 

My shop is fairly small at 12' x 14' so I can't afford to use floor space on one of those nifty router table cabinets with a half drawers and built in dust collection. So here my compromise. 

This is a standard Kreg router table that I've modified to be held in place by a Black & Decker Workmate. When not in use they hang on the wall.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

That is an excellent solution to tight working space Berry. I've suggested a few times that common folding table legs would work but your solution is probably more solid and you can still use the workmate for other jobs.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Ron I like your use of skateboard wheels.


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## millman#1 (Jun 24, 2012)

*New here! Pic's of my router table.*

Hello everyone!
Been a lurker here off and on for a couple of years, finally decided to share a few pic's of my router table that I built about 4 years ago. One of the great things about it is that the way it is configured I get about 95% dust collection, maybe even better than that!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

millman#1 said:


> Hello everyone!
> Been a lurker here off and on for a couple of years, finally decided to share a few pic's of my router table that I built about 4 years ago. One of the great things about it is that the way it is configured I get about 95% dust collection, maybe even better than that!


Nice table Mike and welcome to the forum since this is your first post. Why don't you go to the introductions and introduce yourself to everyone?


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

millman#1 said:


> Hello everyone!
> Been a lurker here off and on for a couple of years, finally decided to share a few pic's of my router table that I built about 4 years ago. One of the great things about it is that the way it is configured I get about 95% dust collection, maybe even better than that!


Mike 
Welcome to the forum. Obviously your experience will be an asset to the forum. Looking forward to more of your post. THANKS


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## brightw (Jul 14, 2009)

*Post #4.*

Only six more posts and I can post a picture!


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

brightw said:


> Only six more posts and I can post a picture!


Brian
You can post a picture anytime even with only 4 posts (see Mikes post above). You just cant post URL's

Looking forward to seeing your pictures.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

brightw said:


> Only six more posts and I can post a picture!


Brian, you can post a picture from day one if the picture is stored on your hard drive and not on a web shareing service.

Just go to advance response and to manage attachments.

You can post a picture but not a URL.


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## Oldmcst (Jun 15, 2013)

VaughnRonald said:


> Here is a shot of my table set up to process different width planks for finger joints.
> The material widths vary from about 3" wide to approx. 8 3/4 wide.
> The thickness is uniform at about 1.700".
> I used old inline skate wheels to provide hold down and push back for holding he work as it travels over the cutter.
> ...


Now that's certainly a unique system!!!!


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

Mine almost identical to Ron's. I built it over 20 years ago.


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## brightw (Jul 14, 2009)

Trying to post pictures of my router table. I hope it works.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I think your table is unique Brian, I don't recall seeing one like it before and on here that is saying something.


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## brightw (Jul 14, 2009)

Thank you Mike I wanted something heavy to dampen vibration and minimize noise.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Indeed, a truly unique approach you took Brian. I like it! Any thought given to adding drawers/compartments etc?




brightw said:


> Trying to post pictures of my router table. I hope it works.


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

brightw said:


> Thank you Mike I wanted something heavy to dampen vibration and minimize noise.


Did it work? I seems to me it should. You don’t have to worry about someone walking off with it either.


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## Dodgeboy77 (Jun 14, 2013)

Brian,

Your router table looks like an excellent blend of artwork with function!

Bill


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## brightw (Jul 14, 2009)

Daikusan said:


> Did it work? I seems to me it should. You don’t have to worry about someone walking off with it either.


 Yes, I am very pleased with the performance. Not too noisy and little vibration.
I was not concerned with storage because I have plenty. I was more concerned with dust collection, which I now have. A six inch pipe to the bottom rear from the Clear-Vue Max does an excellent job along with the joint tech fence. The stock sucks to the table from the vacuum. 
The large dado and rabbit on the top was done with a router. The top was trimmed with a 12 inch blade and Laguna table saw. I had to tack a 3/4 inch runner to the bottom of the top and used the miter slot to trim the top to length. See photo. It was the first time I had used that technique. It worked well.
I really don't like the proportions. I wanted plenty of toe and knee space and I have it. But I think it made the whole table look awkward. I would of course change things on the next one.


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## nn4jw (Jun 22, 2013)

After seeing some really elaborate and great looking tables mine doesn't seem like much, but it gets the job done.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

brightw said:


> Trying to post pictures of my router table. I hope it works.



It worked.

Awesome table.......


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

nn4jw said:


> After seeing some really elaborate and great looking tables mine doesn't seem like much, but it gets the job done.



Hi Jim.

"gets the job done" works for me.

You have given me some new ideas for one of my tables. (the 'to do' list just keeps on growing).....:haha:


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## Gmww (May 19, 2013)

Slow learner here. After researching on this forum, this is the set up I purchased and built.


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

Gmww said:


> Slow learner here. After researching on this forum, this is the set up I purchased and built.


Looks like a good choice to me. I wouldnt say thats a slow learner.


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## Bastien (May 10, 2013)

I started looking for ideas to build a RT, but my head exploded. What I'd like to know, is there a standard distance between the T track and router bit?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If there is most of us have never heard of it. If it is for a miter jig closer is better. If is for a fingerboard it needs to be far enough back to make room for your work and the fingers. I prefer to use a sled instead of a miter jig, it is much simpler.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

The rule is 2" from the edge of your router mounting plate.

===



Bastien said:


> I started looking for ideas to build a RT, but my head exploded. What I'd like to know, is there a standard distance between the T track and router bit?


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I get asked every once in awhile about my homemade router table, so figured I'd best post pictures of it - don't know if it is as an example of what you can do with little, or just a example of what not to do. :lol:

I went thru my posts and picture files and came up with these pictures. This is version four or five I believe, and I believe I've had this particular version since about 2000, or possibly even earlier. It's made with 1/2" plywood, for the top, and router plates. Under it is supported by a spiderweb of 2X4 pieces, quite close together - give great support, and have had no problem with sagging. It's mainly held together with Titebond II, but bolted to the shelf with nuts and bolts, the total cost of which was somewhere around $2.50 if I recall right, and they have been reused since the first verion. The rest is scrap I had in the shop, so I don't count any cost of that. No, I did buy some screws and washers to hold the router to the router plate, cost unknown. Very basic, but answers my needs nicely. If I ever need a fence, a piece of 2X4 and a couple of clamps should do nicely. 

First picture: The top. It is made of three pieces of plywood, four if you include the router plate. The only thing I can come up with for making this like this is, probably I didn't have any larger pieces of plywood handy. The router plate locks in nicely, with no movement, you have to lift the front, and lift, to take the router out.

Second picture: This is the best photo I have of the underside. On the left is a piece of 2X4, and on the right is the power strip I plug the router into, and that is attached to a piece of 2X4 on that side.

Third picture: And this rather bad picture is the router plate, with the router attached to the bottom side. 

Fourth picture: This is the router mounted on the bottom side of the router plate. The hole in the plate was intended for hanging on a nail, but I have since drill holes in the plates on the leading edge, seems to be handier.

Fifth picture: This not so clear is with the router plate out, and where the router fits in. The lip on each side is about 1/2" each, with another at the rear, and support the plate and router nicely. The router winds up very close to each side, so there is maximum support.

Sixth picture: This is my new router plate master. Not sure why I tossed the other one, but obviously this one must be an improvement, of some sort. Down is printed on it, so that when the new router plate is finished, it will be turned so the nail holes are on the bottom. The cut corner on the plate is so I will know that goes to the upper right, and makes sure I have the right side on top - I was not able to get both sides 100% symetrical, and if I did it anyother way, I would be sure to get the wrong side up, and it would not fit quite right - so this saves hassle, and irritation. The holes for the screws to hold the router on are marked, but I don't think I will drill them, instead just put the router on the plate and mark the hole position, then drill them; then if I have a different router, with different hole spacing, won't have to worry about it.

Seventh picture: Just for the heck of it, one of my cane handle masters, and a cane made from it. As a bonus, you also get another poor view of under the front of the table. 

Don't ask me for plans, I don't have any. I am not even sure how I made the darn thing. I started on it, made it, then couldn't tell how I did it. I still don't know how I cut those sides and made them fit so nicely to the router plate. I can't tell how I made the sides for the router plate either. Zen woodworking.

This has answered my need very nicely. It still does, but now I am going to extend the left side approximately 33" - that's the size of a bench I will be using as the extension. There are times when you simply don't need fancy.


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## RetiredJake (Jun 25, 2013)

*My New Router Table*

This is the first router table I have built. I had been looking at different plans for a long time, and incorporated ideas from several of them. The basic cabinet design is from the WoodWorking For Mere Mortals website. I used Steve's frame and panel construction idea, sketched it out in Sketchup to get the dimensions needed to construct it. Built-in sawdust collection baffling ideas from a set of plans by Creston Wood. Cabinet is cedar framing and birch plywood panels, all sealed with one coat of Australian Timber Oil. The top is two layers of 3/4" MDF with 3/4" oak edging, and laminate on both sides. The lift is a JessEm RouterLift II. Homemade knobs for all the fence adjustments. The pictures tell a better story than I can.

So far, it is working better than I hoped. Dust collection is excellent and the noise is so much better than free hand routing.

Jake


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## brightw (Jul 14, 2009)

Excellent looking table. I like the fence a lot. Could you show a detail of the hand knobs on the fence?


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## Bastien (May 10, 2013)

I've started looking at plan software, hoping to find something that will spit out plans if I enter the basic idea and dimensions. Is that what "Sketchup" is/does? Very nice table by the way. I like the simple idea of the outlet on the side.


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## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

*Great looking table*



RetiredJake said:


> This is the first router table I have built. I had been looking at different plans for a long time, and incorporated ideas from several of them. The basic cabinet design is from the WoodWorking For Mere Mortals website. I used Steve's frame and panel construction idea, sketched it out in Sketchup to get the dimensions needed to construct it. Built-in sawdust collection baffling ideas from a set of plans by Creston Wood. Cabinet is cedar framing and birch plywood panels, all sealed with one coat of Australian Timber Oil. The top is two layers of 3/4" MDF with 3/4" oak edging, and laminate on both sides. The lift is a JessEm RouterLift II. Homemade knobs for all the fence adjustments. The pictures tell a better story than I can.
> 
> So far, it is working better than I hoped. Dust collection is excellent and the noise is so much better than free hand routing.
> 
> Jake


Great looking table I like the fence also
:yes4:


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## RetiredJake (Jun 25, 2013)

Bastien said:


> I've started looking at plan software, hoping to find something that will spit out plans if I enter the basic idea and dimensions. Is that what "Sketchup" is/does? Very nice table by the way. I like the simple idea of the outlet on the side.


Sketchup is a free 3D drafting program. It is very easy to use once you learn the basics, and you can do anything from a simple cube with a hole in it to a whole house. It is limited only by the user. If interested, just Google "sketchup" and you will find the Trimble site to download it from.

Here is a sketch of the fence locking knob on my table. It provides all of the details that I had for the knobs. They can be scaled to whatever size you want for the application. This sketch came from another set of plans, but there is no identification of the author on them, and I do not remember where they came from. I also made other knobs just countersinking a T-nut in plywood. They can be seen on the bit guard and stop blocks.

Jake


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

RetiredJake said:


> Sketchup is a free 3D drafting program. It is very easy to use once you learn the basics, and you can do anything from a simple cube with a hole in it to a whole house. It is limited only by the user. If interested, just Google "sketchup" and you will find the Trimble site to download it from.
> 
> Jake


Jake thanks for the tip


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## maggs (Jun 17, 2011)

*My new table*

Almost finished mounting a RT into my table saw. I think I'll need to add a support leg so the whole show doesn't tip over. The RT extends 1100 mm over the right side of the saw. On the left is a sliding table. The router table ca be removed by 2 screws if needed or the LS positioner removed easily as it's mounted via threaded inserts.

I'm also thinking of ways to utilise the positioner for the saw by way of some sort of turntable/track setup. Still yet to figure that out.

As can be seen, I need a bigger workshop. If I need to rip over 1000 mm I need to wheel it outside so the blade has some free air. Getting it out is no problem but getting it back in over a 10 mm lip in the concrete floor where the slab joins the driveway is a bit tricky. So far I've been getting a run up but now with the extra weight I don't think I'll make it somehow. I'll have to put the thinking cap on to figure out a better way to achieve this. Possibly some sort of ramp will do the job or a winch.

Steve


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Looks very nice but is it me that I see it up side down?


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## maggs (Jun 17, 2011)

kolias said:


> Looks very nice but is it me that I see it up side down?


You're not crazy, they are upside down. I don't understand why as they are the correct way up on my Mac. Maybe the mods can rotate them or show me the errors of my ways.

Steve


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I just thought it was because Steve was also from Australia.......LOL


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## maggs (Jun 17, 2011)

jw2170 said:


> I just thought it was because Steve was also from Australia.......LOL


I got it figured now. I'm using a USA purchased Mac in the Southern Hemisphere. No wonder it's not working . Seriously though, I think what's happening is that iPhoto on the Mac auto-rotates the shots for display as I think the orientation info may be stored with the image when it comes from the iPhone. When you take a photo on a phone there is no correct top or bottom in either portrait or landscape. it just depends which way the camera is oriented at the time. Next time I'll use the preview before I post.

Steve


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## maggs (Jun 17, 2011)

*Photo's MKII*

Let's hope this gets the pics the right way up.

Steve


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

That's a decent sized combination, Steve.


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## maggs (Jun 17, 2011)

jw2170 said:


> That's a decent sized combination, Steve.


Hi James,

As with most projects I do, it didn't start out like that. The original plan was a RT stand alone type. I bought a 600 x 1100 mm router table then I saw the 12" TS12RX for sale on Gumtree and couldn't let it pass by. Then when I got the saw home it was apparent there was no way I could fit both in the workshop. I don't really like the combo idea but it is a necessary evil until I get a bigger workshop.

What I would like to do is figure out a workable solution so I can share the LS positioner between both. I thought of a flush mounted lazy susan type turntable that allows the LS to spin around with adjustable fixed stops for repeatability. Then it also needs to have a sliding track because it is too close to the saw blade. Option 2 would be to replace my existing fence rails with Incra TS rails then it's easy to just lift it up and spin around and also I can then move it to any position on the rails. Getting a set of 54" Incra rails to Oz without a bank loan might be a challenge. I'm guessing the freight would be a killer. I could also have a go at making my own somehow.

I'm getting a headache thinking about it all now LOL.

Steve


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## maggs (Jun 17, 2011)

SawSucker said:


> My first table was a older Craftsman portable with the sheet metal legs and a aluminum top, with a Craftsman router. This whole project started one day when I just had to have a Freud router table fence that was on sale. Then I went on the lookout for what I thought would be the best table insert for the money, I picked the Woodpeckers Aluminum plate with the additional aluminum 8 piece ringset. I like the style of the Kreg portable table, but Kreg wouldn't sell me just the stand, so I made my own, the legs came from a scrapped radial arm saw stand. The top is 1 1/8 inch thick with a Porter-Cable 890 router attached. The power switch I robbed from the old Craftsman table. The reason I stayed with a portable is that it works well for my shop that doesn't have the extra room for a cabinet style table, and for setup reasons I stayed away from mounting a router to my table saw. So far I'm very happy with this setup compared to the older tinny Craftsman setup. This new setup has some weight and sturdiness to it which dampens any vibrations, and it's accurate.


Hi Charlie,
Your table looks great. My previous RT was a similar setup in that it just sat on the bench like yours but nowhere as nice as your unit. It did the job for me for over 20 years. Sometimes I question whether or not simple is best. The more I think about it, the more it makes sense. I use my simple machines way more than the flash complicated ones for sure.

I'll also admit that the lure of shiny anodized tools is sometimes just too much for the logical side of my brain to cope with and I seem to be buying more all the time. Maybe one day there will be the Anodized Aluminum (and other shiny tools) Addiction self help group.:jester: A few moths ago I researched setting up my own anodizing tank which would seem to indicate I'm entering the second stage of the disorder to make my old tools bright and shiny

Steve


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

SawSucker said:


> My first table was a older Craftsman portable with the sheet metal legs and a aluminum top, with a Craftsman router.


Exactly how I started, except I borrowed them. The next time I used a router table, it was my first homemade version.


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## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

Getting it out is no problem but getting it back in over a 10 mm lip in the concrete floor where the slab joins the driveway is a bit tricky. So far I've been getting a run up but now with the extra weight I don't think I'll make it somehow. I'll have to put the thinking cap on to figure out a better way to achieve this. Possibly some sort of ramp will do the job or a winch.

Steve[/QUOTE]

I would rip a wedge on the table saw and glue it down (problem fixed)


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## JI808 (Aug 7, 2013)

Here's the current status of my router table.

Still a work in progress.


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## Bastien (May 10, 2013)

Looks good. I'm at about the same point. Is that top an old bowling ally lane?


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## JI808 (Aug 7, 2013)

1 1/2" birch.


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## Glenrob (Jun 6, 2013)

Nice work there Jason. Looks like you have the right tools and know how to use 'em.
Good luck,

Bob


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## Glenrob (Jun 6, 2013)

maggs said:


> Let's hope this gets the pics the right way up.
> 
> Steve


Nice job Steve. I'm still waiting on the arrival of my 17" (metric) LS Positioner as well as a Mitre 3000 SE. All I have to do now is build the table to take the LS. Still using my trusty Triton router table for now, but when the new one is up and running I'm giving my Triton bench away to some worthy routerphile here in OZ.

Bob


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## flegac (May 20, 2011)

*my humble router table*

Hi, it's my first post, so I hope the pics come through ok.

Mine is a shop-built unit based on the Triton router and base plate.

It works o.k. but I fuss with it a fair amount when setting up cuts.

If and when I change it I'll go with a precision fence.


Your table is a beautiful piece of work!

Regards & good luck to your son!


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## Andrew LB (Dec 29, 2012)

I'm new to using routers and after discovering this forum, decided to make a small table for my Bosch PR20EVSK palm router. The surface is MDF that's had about 10 wiped on coats of a mixture of oil based polyurethane and Naptha VM&P, lightly sanded between coats... then a healthy application of Johnson's Paste Furniture wax. The lower portion of the base was an old pine table top that was perfectly flat and pretty well made. The fence is also MDF with the same poly/naptha finish, held down by your standard t-track made by Incra. The actual plate holding the router is temporary because I have a nice 1/4" piece of Lexan on the way. And the guard/fence and vacuum attachment came from my local woodcraft. The vacuum I use is a 14-Gallon 6HP Ridgid that I use drywall bags in for extra filtration. The suction with this setup is so amazing, i get zero dust out the hole for the bit.

Right now i'm finishing up a 2-piece fence add-on so it can be used as a jointer as well.

And before anyone says it... yes, i know i need a bigger router. This project is for light work and more importantly... to learn. When I get a big router, I'll definitely be using Phenolic faced boards, and all the fancy stuff.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Welcome.....*



flegac said:


> Hi, it's my first post, so I hope the pics come through ok.
> 
> Mine is a shop-built unit based on the Triton router and base plate.
> 
> ...


Welcome to the forum, Francis.

You have made a good choice for your table router.....


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Welcome*



Andrew LB said:


> I'm new to using routers and after discovering this forum, decided to make a small table for my Bosch PR20EVSK palm router. The surface is MDF that's had about 10 wiped on coats of a mixture of oil based polyurethane and Naptha VM&P, lightly sanded between coats... then a healthy application of Johnson's Paste Furniture wax. The lower portion of the base was an old pine table top that was perfectly flat and pretty well made. The fence is also MDF with the same poly/naptha finish, held down by your standard t-track made by Incra. The actual plate holding the router is temporary because I have a nice 1/4" piece of Lexan on the way. And the guard/fence and vacuum attachment came from my local woodcraft. The vacuum I use is a 14-Gallon 6HP Ridgid that I use drywall bags in for extra filtration. The suction with this setup is so amazing, i get zero dust out the hole for the bit.
> 
> Right now i'm finishing up a 2-piece fence add-on so it can be used as a jointer as well.
> 
> And before anyone says it... yes, i know i need a bigger router. This project is for light work and more importantly... to learn. When I get a big router, I'll definitely be using Phenolic faced boards, and all the fancy stuff.



Welcome to the forum. Your post must have been held up waiting for release by a moderator.


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## Bob Jackson (Sep 14, 2013)

Wow. after looking at 77 pages of router table photos, there are some really neat ideas.
I want to build a portable top that may be able to hang from the wall and fold out possibly, or make one that fits on a large workmate.


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## Bobmedic3214 (Sep 18, 2013)

*My router table*

My router table is in the extension wing of my table saw.


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

JI808 said:


> Here's the current status of my router table.
> 
> Still a work in progress.


How thick is the timber top? I did look through your posts but didn't see a mention.
The local hardware chain has some affordable pine laminated panels 2100mm x 900mm by 30mm thick and I was thinking about using one to make a router table top.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

geoff_s said:


> How thick is the timber top? I did look through your posts but didn't see a mention.
> The local hardware chain has some affordable pine laminated panels 2100mm x 900mm by 30mm thick and I was thinking about using one to make a router table top.


If I'm not going fancy, but need thick, I just laminate two, or even three, pieces of 1/2" plywood, to make a 1" or 1 1/2" thick piece of wood. Less expensive then buying. 

My top is braced very well, with sections of 2X4, and the top is 1/2" plywood. That makes it very sturdy. If you want to go with the really cheap, rude and crude, but strong as all get out, way, that works.


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## Bob Jackson (Sep 14, 2013)

I went out and started buying misc parts to build the stable.
Went to the till and parts ended up costing $187 CAn., and I had only bought the mounting plate and a few guides. a stop.
Decided against buying this after I had already paid for it, and decided to buy a portable Freud unit with a router attached for only a $100 more.
Will use this until I decide if I will need something else, and then can make a better informed decision to what my needs will be.
Looking forward to my router arriving and using.
Also found out the my Bosch 23C has a built in lift.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Bob Jackson said:


> I went out and started buying misc parts to build the stable.
> Went to the till and parts ended up costing $187 CAn.,


Ouch. I think my table cost less than $5, I know for a fact it cost less than $10. 
I am NOT cheap. I am frugal. :yes4:


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## thumb_trimmer (Feb 20, 2011)

*recently completed*

Started collecting bits for the router table years ago... only just built this during September this year.

The excuse = SWMBO wanted a new/replacement hung window sash built for the kitchen window, the old one was rotting and the glass was cracked.

And what i hadn't yet collected, i fabricated (eg. the shopmade fence cam-locks)

... and it all worked out alright, as far as I'm concerned.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, N/a.

If it works, it works.

BTW, any reason for the tall fence?


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## thumb_trimmer (Feb 20, 2011)

Hi and thanks James,

re: "Is there any reason for the tall fence?"

... only on the chance that I wanted to route 'tall', otherwise, it was for no other particular reason.


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## Peter Harrison45 (Aug 26, 2013)

*cool table*



Andrew LB said:


> I'm new to using routers and after discovering this forum, decided to make a small table for my Bosch PR20EVSK palm router. The surface is MDF that's had about 10 wiped on coats of a mixture of oil based polyurethane and Naptha VM&P, lightly sanded between coats... then a healthy application of Johnson's Paste Furniture wax. The lower portion of the base was an old pine table top that was perfectly flat and pretty well made. The fence is also MDF with the same poly/naptha finish, held down by your standard t-track made by Incra. The actual plate holding the router is temporary because I have a nice 1/4" piece of Lexan on the way. And the guard/fence and vacuum attachment came from my local woodcraft. The vacuum I use is a 14-Gallon 6HP Ridgid that I use drywall bags in for extra filtration. The suction with this setup is so amazing, i get zero dust out the hole for the bit.
> 
> Right now i'm finishing up a 2-piece fence add-on so it can be used as a jointer as well.
> 
> And before anyone says it... yes, i know i need a bigger router. This project is for light work and more importantly... to learn. When I get a big router, I'll definitely be using Phenolic faced boards, and all the fancy stuff.


WOW love the table ,and what a cool featherboard, what is the middle ply pice of table top made of ??:jester:


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## Peter Harrison45 (Aug 26, 2013)

*very nice*



maggs said:


> Let's hope this gets the pics the right way up.
> 
> Steve


To me it seems that your router plate and LS positioner should be swapped around with the plate closer to the table saw, i'm proberly wrong but !! feel free to enlighten me , as i'm still in the plannimg stage of my build:cray:


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## Peter Harrison45 (Aug 26, 2013)

*nice table*



RLFX said:


> Pics of my table finishing it today !!


Nice set up , i love your fence with the roundover effect ,i'll keep this in mind when making mine


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

*tall fences*



jw2170 said:


> Welcome to the forum, N/a.
> 
> If it works, it works.
> 
> BTW, any reason for the tall fence?


Recent magazine I just read talked about using Vertical razed panel pits in a vertical router A tall fence is a great for this.

I use lock miters alot A tall fence fence makes the Job easier.


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## Peter Harrison45 (Aug 26, 2013)

*Thanks*



Old_Chipper said:


> HI All;
> Just wanted to thank everyone for making this thread,"The best collection of router tables on the Internet" When I started it, I had no idea it last this long.
> Thanks again!
> God Bless
> Harry, TX


Thankyou you very much for starting the thread Harry


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## Peter Harrison45 (Aug 26, 2013)

*Omg*



Mike said:


> I think your table is unique Brian, I don't recall seeing one like it before and on here that is saying something.


I'll say mike , how many hours ya reckon went into that beast, couldn't see any storage with all that, and must weigh a tonne
Nice job brian or is that BRAIN:agree:


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## CurtisDye (Nov 3, 2013)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Harry...
> 
> hope your son has as much fun building his, as i did mine...


Bill, I am ready to move my Incra joinery package from my saw to its own table and yours seems to have everything I have envisioned, and more. You wouldn't happen to have any build aids (sketches, plans shop notes) available for your masterpiece to help an amateur along?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

CurtisDye said:


> Bill, I am ready to move my Incra joinery package from my saw to its own table and yours seems to have everything I have envisioned, and more. You wouldn't happen to have any build aids (sketches, plans shop notes) available for your masterpiece to help an amateur along?


Hey Curtis, welcome to the comminity..

Do I have any plans, shopnotes etc... uhhh nope. Sorry. I pretty much had an idea of what I wanted to do with a router table so I went about doing quite a bit of homework. Including spending a good bit of time in here looking at various design concepts and reading up on what worked for some guys an didn't for others. Since you already have your router/fence etc. you're in good shape. Briefly, the table top is a custom ordered/sized top from Woodpeckers. I believe that they have since, stopped taking orders for custom sized tops. I could have made my top, but didnt want to be bothered. 
The cabinet is made from hard maple, using Kreg's pocket-hole joinery system. My first real project with Kreg's products and I've been sold ever since! In 4 years, the cabinet remains rock solid. Number of drawers, drawer position etc. were all just a matter of personal preference. The biggest drawer for holding routers, bigger drawers for boxed bit sets, accessories etc. and the smaller drawers for individual bits and accessories. Metal ball bearing, full extension slides on all of the drawers.
I rigged up the LS fence so that it can be completely removed when not in use and the top of the cabinet doubles as an assembly table. The back half I added some T-track and an Kreg clamping plate. One of the things I would have done differently would have been to give myself a bit of an overhang around the top for clamping purposes. Hasn't been an issue when using the router, but when using the cabinet as an assembly table, clamping capabilities would be a nice plus. The castors are 2" and probably should have been 3" or bigger. The current wheels are fine but only because I don't need to move the table around too much. 
I incorporated 2 kill switches which I have found to be very nice to have. A bump with a knee and she's turned off. 
Thats pretty much a rough overview of the table. Think about what you want to do, and what you MIGHT want to do later on. Give yourself plenty of table top space to work with. Table height is important in so much, build yours to a height that is comfortable for you. Budget is always a big factor. My advise is always to go with the best you can afford or save up for. I nickle and dimed this table for quite a while until I got what I wanted not what I was willing to settle for. 
I'll be more than happy to help ya out and answer any questions you may have. 

Bill


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## CurtisDye (Nov 3, 2013)

Wow! What a testament to the power of this great forum! I post a reply/question to a four-year-old post and Bill responds with great info and and positive support and feedback. After spending at least four hours checking out various threads on Sunday afternoon I can honestly say I have never seen an online site that defines "community" more than Router Forums". Thank you, Bill, and everyone else that gives so much time and thought!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

We are only here to help, Curtis, and welcome to the forum.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Curtis, the sharing of ideas benefits us all. In trying to assist new members with questions I have often come up with a better understanding for myself. I truly believe this is the best place on the web for woodworkers. Spread the word.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

CurtisDye said:


> Wow! What a testament to the power of this great forum! I post a reply/question to a four-year-old post and Bill responds with great info and and positive support and feedback. After spending at least four hours checking out various threads on Sunday afternoon I can honestly say I have never seen an online site that defines "community" more than Router Forums". Thank you, Bill, and everyone else that gives so much time and thought!



My pleasure Curtis...

We may not all see eye to eye, but thats what keeps it interesting :yes2: You can ask a simple question and get a half dozen different options in response. I'll be keeping an eye out for how your table progress's. 

Make a little sawdust and enjoy


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

My router table has gone to the great repository in the sky.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Cocheseuga said:


> My router table has gone to the great repository in the sky.


Looking to build a compact table now Chris?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Cocheseuga said:


> My router table has gone to the great repository in the sky.



OK, tell us what happened......

Sympathy, empathy or philosophy...we can help.......


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

TwoSkies57 said:


> My pleasure Curtis...
> 
> We may not all see eye to eye, but thats what keeps it interesting :yes2: *You can ask a simple question and get a half dozen different options in response.* I'll be keeping an eye out for how your table progress's.
> 
> Make a little sawdust and enjoy


And every one of those opinions is usually right--for the person providing it. And...almost 100% of the time some part of each opinion can be a piece of what's right for me. Quite an incredible thing really, if we keep our wits about us.

earl


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Cocheseuga said:


> My router table has gone to the great repository in the sky.


The death of one router table means the birth of a new and improved one.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I put the top into my table saw but it's a bit of a disappointment and the base is serving as a cutoff rack. I added a lathe and had to make room.


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## HoweA (Jul 31, 2013)

Sorry I didn't ask first will delete if you ask. I stole five pictures of ur r/t. Needless to say I liked it. Plan to use them to help me with my proto type r/t. Will be first for me. Have most of what I need probably plyw for the main case work. Not sure of top composition yet. Will figure it out tho. Well either way thanks. Will keep most in my head. So if u don't want me to have the pics let me know. Again thks.

Al


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## EInric (Jan 8, 2014)

*My New Router Table*

Here is my new table, I just finished it last weekend.
It's collapsible, when I swing the sides in it only sticks out 4" from the wall.
I don't have a plunge router YET, but that's on my list, an Incra TSLS for my tablesaw is first up.
The T-Track & Insert Plate from MLCS and I have another one for a mitre bar that I haven't installed yet.
The table is 1.5" MDF with white melamine laminate.
I will be building a mount on the bottom for a 4" floor cleaning attachment so I can hook up the shop vac.


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## HoweA (Jul 31, 2013)

Thanks Jake. gonna incorporate some. I like. ths again.

Al


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## Eazygeezer (Sep 23, 2013)

My router table (and bench) is almost complete, still a few finishing touches to put to it over the coming days.
As space is at an absolute premium I have had to integrate it into the bench, last night I added 2 t tracks and a sacrificial fence which I will add to my photos later. Anyway, have at it, please feel free to add comments, ideas, criticism etc. 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qndhco8jlrsh5ot/20140110_201725.jpg?m=


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## Tom King (Jan 22, 2014)

Coming as soon as I get my post count up to ten.


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## oliverc612 (Dec 3, 2009)

*my new router table is finished!!*

Thanks to the inspiration from this forum, I have finally designed, built and finished my new router table. Many ideas have come from this forum.

The table is 38.5" x 25.5" and the fence is 7" high (perhaps too high)?

The table height is 34" right now, but I may add taller feet to make it higher. It is about right for sitting at the table and working, but I have to bend over too much to use it when standing up. The cabinet is made from 3/4" shop ply (maple face) and the drawer fronts, faceframe and table edging is made from maple. The drawers are 1/2" baltic birch plywood.

There are 5 bit drawers and 6 other full extension accessory drawers. The on/off switch is integrated just under the top on the right side.

The vacuum for the fence and the router well is internal to the cabinet with only one 4" dust collection hose on the right side of the cabinet.

The top is 3/4" thick melamine finished particle board laminated to a sheet of 3/4" birch shop ply and banded with maple.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

High fences are great in my opinion.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Should be happy with that one, Oliver...


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## baldir (Jan 10, 2014)

Excellent work! That´s the kind I of router table I aim for. Thanks for sharing!


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

oliverc612 said:


> Thanks to the inspiration from this forum, I have finally designed, built and finished my new router table. Many ideas have come from this forum.
> 
> The table is 38.5" x 25.5" and the fence is 7" high (perhaps too high)?


Oliver

Naw the fence isnt to high. I like the whole setup it great! I like your avatar also. He must have got his tail stuck in the DC. All cats I have seen detest vacuum cleaners.

Steve


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## Salty Dawg (Jan 24, 2014)

Been looking at all the pics here & a lot of nice table have been made. Here is a pic of mine, this is my first router table & will more than likely add to it as I learn more or make another on in the future.


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

Salty Dawg said:


> Been looking at all the pics here & a lot of nice table have been made. Here is a pic of mine, this is my first router table & will more than likely add to it as I learn more or make another on in the future.


Nice looking table and easily ported to the jobsite. You might consider some frame under to keep it from sagging. Dosent have to be a box some 5/4ths hardwood 3inches wide in a ladder shape with rungs on each side or the router.


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## John Bradshaw (Sep 12, 2010)

*Very Nice.*



Old_Chipper said:


> Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.
> So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.


I agree with all else. If we show you ours, we would probably end up showing all the wrong things to do.

John Bradshaw


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Just a reminder that you do not need 10 posts to upload your photos to the forums. Click the go advanced button and you will find a button that says manage attachments. Select this and you will be able to upload your photos.

Please do upload your photos to the forums; when you provide a link to photos stored off site they get lost over time. This is because sites change their IP address's. When this happens your photos are forever lost to the forums.


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## Scottey66 (Feb 1, 2012)

*New Updated Table*

Just added some new features to my table, added T-track and new fence, so much easier to use and much more accurate.


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## Eazygeezer (Sep 23, 2013)

This is the (almost finally) finished version of the mark 1 integrated router table/bench I have been making.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Lee.

I am intrigued as to why the slots on the fence run 'up and down' rather than side to side?


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## Eazygeezer (Sep 23, 2013)

Hi James, there are two boards on the fence, the rear one has horizontal slots and the front one vertical  I'm sure there was a reson why I put vertical slots on the front but for the moment it eludes me.......


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## mrmistake (Nov 5, 2013)

*good for firewood*



Old_Chipper said:


> Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.
> So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.


Harry.
Very nice setup,great work. After looking at yours I cover mine with a blanket when I leave the shop.Just when I think I'm getting good I see work like yours and say,:sad: not there yet!
Ed


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## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

oliverc612 said:


> Thanks to the inspiration from this forum, I have finally designed, built and finished my new router table. Many ideas have come from this forum.
> 
> The table is 38.5" x 25.5" and the fence is 7" high (perhaps too high)?
> 
> ...


Great looking table but where is the dust collection for the router box. I always have to vacuum out mine after use because it fills up even with a dust collection hookup. I like your fence design I may copy it even though i use a Incra fence for my table-saw router combo setup (There is a picture I think around page 59 in this thread) again beautiful table.


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## WoodCritter (Feb 23, 2014)

Wow! A lot of you folks have _really_ nice looking router tables. Mine is much more utilitarian, but will hopefully get me started for a good while.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Lee, any router table is a good way to get started.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Ted, welcome to the forum...


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## JI808 (Aug 7, 2013)

A couple of updated images of my table. It's on the right. I liked the function of the Kreg fence (liked the table saw style lock) but the top side dust collection isn't a good as the dust collection unit I built. I'm going to do a little work to seal up the large extruded fence on the Kreg to direct/force airflow through the opening at the bit.



















Also added a Wixey digital display. Love this thing.









Stacked with ply to start building a project for SWMBO.


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## oliverc612 (Dec 3, 2009)

*Dust collection for router box...*



Rogerv said:


> Great looking table but where is the dust collection for the router box. I always have to vacuum out mine after use because it fills up even with a dust collection hookup. I like your fence design I may copy it even though i use a Incra fence for my table-saw router combo setup (There is a picture I think around page 59 in this thread) again beautiful table.


Roger, The air channel for the router box is a horizontal slot at the back of the router box on the bottom. I have attached a new photo to show it more clearly. It keeps the router box very clear of dust and chips. It is connected to the internal dust collection channel in the back of the cabinet - the fence dust collection is also connected to this internal dust collection channel in the back of the cabinet.

Hope this helps.
Oliver


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## BCK (Feb 23, 2014)

nice setup for sure...


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## Roy Langman (Jun 28, 2011)

*My Router table Mk 2*

Made this table after my first attempt sagged in the middle. Form ply top with 18mm ply for cabinet, with Hospital bed locking castors. Has 4" dust port at rear of main case and will have 3" dust hose to fence (when I can get the time to finish it!!!!:lol. 

Functional and simple. The foam inside the case catches a bit of sawdust but makes a huge difference to the noise levels. Still need earmuffs of course but it cuts down quite a bit of the high pitched whine. Plan is also to add an external switch so I don't need to open doors to operate on/off.

Nothing flash but very functional.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

So I pulled a little rolling cabinet out of the neighbor's trash and turned it into this. The only expense was the $13 insert plate from Grizzly


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Chris Curl said:


> So I pulled a little rolling cabinet out of the neighbor's trash and turned it into this. The only expense was the $13 insert plate from Grizzly


Win/win....


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## John Bradshaw (Sep 12, 2010)

Really really nice shop.

John [email protected]


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## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

oliverc612 said:


> Roger, The air channel for the router box is a horizontal slot at the back of the router box on the bottom. I have attached a new photo to show it more clearly. It keeps the router box very clear of dust and chips. It is connected to the internal dust collection channel in the back of the cabinet - the fence dust collection is also connected to this internal dust collection channel in the back of the cabinet.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> Oliver


Sweeeeeeet setup:sold:


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

I think I am going to find an extra table for my drill press and mount a box shaped/portable router table to it. If I put a collar or radiator hose clamp under the two tables I can just rotate the one I want to use to the front and the other to the rear. I have one old plastic table from Walmart (Hirsh maybe) that I have had the same router mounted to with various round-over cutters for about 35 years. I keep it on a top shelf and get it down to round over edges and then put it right back. I think it is time for something new.


For those wondering about what router could last that long. It is an old wavey top that has been sold as DeWalt, Mongomery Ward, JC Penney, Skill, and probably a few other names for what seems like forever. It has been changed only on the inside for all of those years.
Dan Coleman


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## Snolan4571 (Jan 5, 2014)

Ok, here is my almost finished home made base. It has a Rockler pro-phenolic table, pro fence, router lift FX sporting a Bosch 1617 and two part dust control and a dust box with separate storage area on the bottom. 

All I have left to do is mount lights in the D/C an storage areas an mount three home made bit storage trays and I will be done. OR rather just getting started. The base is a 1940's era kitchen cabinet base I picked up at a garage sale for a dime.

Will post pics today, cannot seem to add more than a single pic from iPad.


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## Snolan4571 (Jan 5, 2014)

Ok, here is my almost finished home made base. It has a Rockler pro-phenolic table, pro fence, router lift FX sporting a Bosch 1617, two part dust control, (dust collection box and fence collection) with separate storage area on the bottom.

Three seperate switches/outlets for controlling router and seperate lights in the DC/Storage Areas.

All I have left to do is mount lights in the D/C and storage areas, plug them in and mount three home made bit storage trays and I will be done. OR rather just getting started with a new, large "real" router table.

BTW the base is a 1940's era kitchen cabinet base I picked up at a garage sale for a dime.


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## Gregad (Mar 19, 2014)

*My table build*

I don't need storage underneath, I have plenty already. I wanted something sturdy and easy to move around. It is very stout and even can stand on it without it wiggling around.

Used a piece of 1 1/2" particle board covered in Formica bought from a reuse store. 22"x36" used desk top $7
Woodpecker Aluminum plate off Ebay. $50 Like new and even came with the router bit.
Fence is some scrap red oak from a flooring manufacture. $ free 
Legs are just 2"x4" sanded $20
Switch and wiring, $20
Tee tracks, Incra $30
Misc. Hardware on hand.
Flexible arm light on hand

Right now, less than $150

I put a hole in back of fence chip box for dust extraction and my Bosch 1617EVS has a sight guard on one side. The other side is open so I used a empty laundry detergent bottle to cut out and form to open side for a 1 1/4 vac hose for chip extraction. Works good. Fence is a piece of scrap or flawed red oak that a local flooring manufacture was getting ready to burn. I did plane the back side down so it is about 5/8" thick but 4" tall. I don't need feather boards but if I ever need them, I will just clamp them on temporary. 

Plug router, vacuum and light into outlets on back, flip of the switch and everything comes on.

I just couldn't bring myself to buy a half plastic, pressed paper cheap piece of junk. Some even expensive. With natural outdoor humidity I have lost a few pieces because the MDF separated or rippled.

All the bare wood I used Linseed oil to protect. Once it dries, It is better than varnish, (My opinion)

Anyway. There hasn't been anything I haven't been able to do that any other store purchased table can do and a third of the cost.


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

I have a drawer stack from that same era. I could just remove to top two drawers.
Dan Coleman


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## m8s4ever (Mar 14, 2014)

Hi All just finished my routertabletop it makes me smile every day thanks to you all of combining ideas and made it with scrap what was laying around! Machine is the aweful Kinzo 750w with speedcontrol terrible machine its totaly unusable so i cut it apart and created with the motor this routertop! The Top is made from trespa 12mm old businessdesk and fence from some aluminium profiles i collected 10 years ago! Knobs bought and was the cost of the hole table. Inlay made from 2,5 mm fibreglass serving tray...light got it one day by ordering some other stuff...It was a nice project. Learned alot with working with trespa... Sawtable is my next project with the same crap...did all the sawcuts with my deWalt 18v circlesaw with a cheap amazing blade no bad cuts and absolutely straight LoL... Only the left side of the fence is warping to the inside but fix that later with t bar steel bended in outside curve for obsolutely straightness... The pressure clamping system is made of some left overs of trespa and my first skateboard wheels the most famous Kryptonics and works flawless very easy ripping!

It's nice to see all those post of very nice and allmost artful designs and inspired me so my thanks goes to you all!

Here are some pics of my table and yes now its time to rip some cabinets


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

m8s4ever said:


> Hi All just finished my routertabletop it makes me smile every day thanks to you all of combining ideas and made it with scrap what was laying around! Machine is the aweful Kinzo 750w with speedcontrol terrible machine its totaly unusable so i cut it apart and created with the motor this routertop! The Top is made from trespa 12mm old businessdesk and fence from some aluminium profiles i collected 10 years ago! Knobs bought and was the cost of the hole table. Inlay made from 2,5 mm fibreglass serving tray...light got it one day by ordering some other stuff...It was a nice project. Learned alot with working with trespa... Sawtable is my next project with the same crap...did all the sawcuts with my deWalt 18v circlesaw with a cheap amazing blade no bad cuts and absolutely straight LoL... Only the left side of the fence is warping to the inside but fix that later with t bar steel bended in outside curve for obsolutely straightness... The pressure clamping system is made of some left overs of trespa and my first skateboard wheels the most famous Kryptonics and works flawless very easy ripping!
> 
> It's nice to see all those post of very nice and allmost artful designs and inspired me so my thanks goes to you all!
> 
> Here are some pics of my table and yes now its time to rip some cabinets



Hi Onno, welcome to the forum.

Your pics do not seem to appear.
_In the reply window, click the go advanced button and you will find a button that says manage attachments. Select this and you will be able to upload your photos.

The pics have to be on your hard drive and NOT on any web sharing site as you cannot post a URL.

_


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## m8s4ever (Mar 14, 2014)

*Can't upload multiple pics with ipad maybe this will work*

Here is one of them have to figure out why i can't upload ;-)


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

There was a discussion on that problem not long ago....

Seems to be an issue with certain phones and tablets..


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## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

mrmistake said:


> Harry.
> Very nice setup,great work. After looking at yours I cover mine with a blanket when I leave the shop.Just when I think I'm getting good I see work like yours and say,:sad: not there yet!
> Ed


Thanks for the kind words! None of us started at the top, for years my router table was a sink cutout clamped atop a set of saw horses. Pride in what you do, is more important than what your tools look like. 
I sure enjoy wandering back to this thread and seeing all the fine ideas. Can't believe how it has grown! I thank each and every one of you for making my thread one of the biggest I have seen!
Harry
the Texas one!


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## WoodNutPat (Feb 22, 2012)

*I know its over the top!*

That's what i told her....Here is my router table. i decided to go all out. i love the Jessem system i think its one of the best out there. i wanted lots of storage for bits that i use all the time and accessories i use often. and a place for my dovetail jig that i mount to the table which is the perfect height. i tried to make it self sufficent having everything right there when i need it. even a place for the fence when not in use. i like that i can take out blocks of the same type of bits from the drawers and i know when one is missing. i don't use the coping sled much anymore since i now have the miter on the fence. its powered by a PC7518. i use it all the time and its by far my favorite tool i own. 
Thanks for looking,
Pat


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## jimidee (Apr 3, 2014)

Old_Chipper said:


> Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.
> So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.


_*I believe you!*_:sold:


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## jimidee (Apr 3, 2014)

WoodNutPat said:


> That's what i told her....Here is my router table. i decided to go all out. i love the Jessem system i think its one of the best out there. i wanted lots of storage for bits that i use all the time and accessories i use often. and a place for my dovetail jig that i mount to the table which is the perfect height. i tried to make it self sufficent having everything right there when i need it. even a place for the fence when not in use. i like that i can take out blocks of the same type of bits from the drawers and i know when one is missing. i don't use the coping sled much anymore since i now have the miter on the fence. its powered by a PC7518. i use it all the time and its by far my favorite tool i own.
> Thanks for looking,
> Pat


WOW...you actually made that table? Impressive!:sold:


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## bendrum (Mar 21, 2014)

Thanks to this "sticky" and this forum I got a lot of great ideas for what I do need and what I don't need for my applications. I wanted a center mount hole and I decided that I really don't need a mount plate. I left myself with some room in the base recess to do so in the future if the need arises. I'll also set up a fence that can be clamped to the sides. I wanted to make the table storable since I don't have room in my garage for a permanent station so this can lean up against a wall when not in use. As a novice to routers and woodworking (but not to hand and power tools) I think I did ok. I made some cosmetic mistakes but I have something I can work with and that's fine with me. I may have gone overkill on the bolts but at least it's sure to stay together. As a matter of fact, I just realized as I was uploading my pics why I had to go out to buy 4 more bolts for my inner support rails. I thought I miscounted the bolts at the store even though I was sure I was correct before checkout. As it turns out, I was originally correct. My plan was to have 4 bolts per side on the outside support rails but as I was measuring for centers, I somehow did 5 holes without realizing it until just now. It sure is easy to mess up once the cutting begins. For the top I used dry erase board from that Blue Store and I put a couple good scratches in it when I glued it down due to a panic for clamping panels. I used a panel with a screw in it dang it. so I sanded the scratches down and decided that if one part was gonna be scuffed, I'll make the whole thing scuffed. Then I really realized how thin the white layer is when I cleaned up my drill holes. Oh well! It's still functional. The dry erase seemed like a good idea and it was only $10.00. I can always try again later if this table fails me.


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## Daltex1269 (Apr 13, 2014)

I'm a woodworking newbie so forgive me if this is a silly question but what is that measuring device above the table?


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## WoodNutPat (Feb 22, 2012)

Daltex1269 said:


> I'm a woodworking newbie so forgive me if this is a silly question but what is that measuring device above the table?


What device are you referring to?


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## WoodNutPat (Feb 22, 2012)

jimidee said:


> WOW...you actually made that table? Impressive!:sold:


Thank you. It is my third router table. (Hopefully my last) I really enjoyed building it.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Daltex1269 said:


> I'm a woodworking newbie so forgive me if this is a silly question but what is that measuring device above the table?


Welcome aboard Dallas. If you're referring to the 4th picture, that's a t-handled allen wrench for adjusting the router from above the table (without having to buy a lift). If that's not what you're asking about--do please explain. 

earl


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## bendrum (Mar 21, 2014)

Daltex1269 said:


> I'm a woodworking newbie so forgive me if this is a silly question but what is that measuring device above the table?


Hi Daltex, and welcome. I'm new here, too, and also relatively green to woodworking. If you are referring to the device on my table that is ,as was mentioned by Greenacres2, the handle for "above table" height adjustment. It came with my router which is a Craftsman 130.26620 and is no longer made by Sears. It was made for Sears by Bosch and is identical to the Bosch 1617 (except the sub base from what I've read on this site) which also comes with that exact same adjustment t-hex rod and The Bosch is still very much in production. My Craftsman is fresh out of the box after sitting in it since 2004. I owe my knowledge of these particular routers to the people on this site who already knew the story and cross reference of the two models.


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## Daltex1269 (Apr 13, 2014)

WoodNutPat said:


> What device are you referring to?


Sorry, I thought my question would have been in context and below the pic I was referring to. I'm attempting to post the photo in question here.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

All right Tex, from left to right (working from memory of the picture...):
Incra Miter 1000 miter gauge...
Incra Wonder Fence mounted to...
Incra LS Positioner...
finally, on the right--the 2 curved gold pieces are risers for the high rise or panel fence...mounts to the top of Wonder Fence to help keep tall stock stable.

If you look at this web site LS Super System it may clear up what you're looking at. None of us will accept responsibility for your actions if you decide to drink of the Gold Kool-Aid!!

By the way--top of the picture, beyond the the miter gauge--that chrome/yellow thing is called a tape measure. No matter how much other stuff i acquire, i still use my tape measure more than any other tool i have!!

earl


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## baldir (Jan 10, 2014)

*Router table 3.0*

Not 3.0 because it´s especially fancy or different, but it´s my third router table in just a couple of months. Was in a hurry to get one done which worked OK, but I was inspired by many of the people here on the forum so I decided to improve it. Grabbed scrap wood and put one together, but still wanted some improvements and did my current version. Second one first and then 3.0. Routing is addictive!


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## Aleks (Apr 18, 2014)

Hello. Looked topic. Basically tables differ from mine. 
I did with carriage. The shift of about 16 inches. Very easy to do spikes, end faces of details. Made it in 2007.
Bought Triton TRA 001 and I will do a new router table.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

That is a different design, Aleks.

Very solid.


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## BCK (Feb 23, 2014)

thx for sharing aleks


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## Aleks (Apr 18, 2014)

jw2170 said:


> That is a different design, Aleks.
> 
> Very solid.


It was necessary to make it collapsible. Is used on different objects. It has to be transported. The table-top on a wooden frame. The legs of the table are removed. Material plywood. Size 36 x 24 inches. Router plate is hand-made. Clamps also self-made furniture supports.


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## apmgold (Apr 20, 2014)

Hey Roy.
Nice table. I have a triton router that I now need to mount in a table. If you don't mind could you tell me what table insert you used and how did you find it when fitting and also while in use ?

Regards
Mac


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## apmgold (Apr 20, 2014)

Hey Lee.
Just a quick question. How thick is your perspex ( or what ever it is made from ) table insert ? Did you find that it flexed when the router was fitted and what sort of dimensions is it ? I guess the smaller the size the less chance of flex.
I'm looking to mount a triton router and i am looking for ideas.

Cheers Mac


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## Aleks (Apr 18, 2014)

Roy Langman. Interesting idea with noise reduction. Why only 3 walls? Significantly reduces noise? You can reference material?


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## Phil in Orillia (Feb 1, 2014)

*My Incra router table*

Built this recently. I'm a beginner wood worker and its not perfect but I'm finally cutting nice dovetails with it so I'm happy. Drawer fronts are made out of wormy maple. Thanks for looking.


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## jimidee (Apr 3, 2014)

Phil in Orillia said:


> Built this recently. I'm a beginner wood worker and its not perfect but I'm finally cutting nice dovetails with it so I'm happy. Drawer fronts are made out of wormy maple. Thanks for looking.


Pretty nice Phil in Orillia...for a beginner! (slight joke!) I can't wait to see what you will come up with when you get some experience! Really, I am very impressed. I have never seen such a nice homemade setup in my 62 years on this planet.


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## dcrusoe (Apr 28, 2014)

*My little router table that could.*

I love your table! he should copy it, but this is that one I built


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

collinstuart said:


> Here is my own "General International" inspiried set up


That's amazing ! 
I buy only general international tools , so that would look so darn cool in my garage .
Wish I had the time and talent to pull that off . Is the top multiple layers of 1" mdf with some type of laminate on top?


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## jlarsen5860 (Mar 31, 2013)

Old_Chipper said:


> Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.
> So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.


Umm...I'll pass. Yours is bigger than mine.


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## MoHawk (Dec 8, 2013)

This was my combo Christmas/Retirement present which is replacing an old Sears router & table. Rockler steel cabinet with Bench Dog CI Table, fence and lift with a 3 1/4 HP PC 7518. At this time I've only used it on some small projects. It has plenty of power, is extremely smooth and rock solid.


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## BCK (Feb 23, 2014)

MoHawk said:


> This was my combo Christmas/Retirement present which is replacing an old Sears router & table. Rockler steel cabinet with Bench Dog CI Table, fence and lift with a 3 1/4 HP PC 7518. At this time I've only used it on some small projects. It has plenty of power, is extremely smooth and rock solid.


very nice looking setup


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum MoHawk.


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## rtacabinet (Apr 23, 2014)

I have searched for many router tables on internet buy personally these two tables the most. 
Also i have uploaded the wooden kitchen cabinets made by the help of these routing tables.


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## Straightlines (May 15, 2013)

Aleks, I like it. It looks similar to the Festool table, and I've been considering a build like this myself.


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## loweflye (Apr 30, 2014)

*Here is mine.*

Just another variation.It does its job.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I note that you have doors instead of drawers. Or is that just an illusion?


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## loweflye (Apr 30, 2014)

There are two drawers, one on each side of the router box. There are five 4" deep shelves on each end for bit storage. 1/2" on the left and 1/4" on the right . bottom is large storage for routers and accs. It was enjoyable to build as I was just playing around with the 5.00 dollars worth of oak that I got at auction.:lol:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MoHawk said:


> This was my combo Christmas/Retirement present which is replacing an old Sears router & table. Rockler steel cabinet with Bench Dog CI Table, fence and lift with a 3 1/4 HP PC 7518. At this time I've only used it on some small projects. It has plenty of power, is extremely smooth and rock solid.


I bought a PC7518 also and am looking for a quality lift for it . I never knew about bench dog , just been reading other reviews about jessem ,woodpecker and Incra .
Will have to take a look


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## JohnnyRelentless (Nov 13, 2013)

Wow, what a great router table!

Great thread, too, I am also looking for ideas to build one.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

*Incra\Woodpecker Router Workstaton*

Well, I have been threatening for some time to redo my router table. Finally found\made some time to totally redo it.

It will have a 27"x43" top. The most important thing for me was to finally have a place for ALL my accessories, measurement tools, bits, etc.

It is not complete but I thought I would share some pictures before I install the face frame and drawers.

I hope to show off several of the joints the Incra system can make and leave the drawers exposed. They will be 22" inches deep with full pull out slides.

I am getting older so I am going to try to lay everything out in the drawers so they can be seen easily, much like a tool box layout.

No screws or nails were used. All of it was just glued together. The photos show the torsion boxes built both on top and bottom. This is a great way for new woodworkers to build. The dattos help straighten out warped plywood and insure everything will be square when assembled. The time saved not having to predrill or screw is worth it, especially in plywood that is rather temperamental about taking screws along its edge.

The overall height is 40". I prefer not to bend over my work surface and the taller height was a key reason for not incorporating it into a table saw workstation.

Outside is 3/4" Maple and the grain matched all the way around. I left a 1 1/2" overhang all the way around, should I need to clamp something down.

I have also decided not to permanently mount the top. It will be removable\swappable with other top(s) with tracks embedded for other task requiring a large work surface and clamping.

I cheaped out and bought some low grade plywood for the interior. Big mistake. Spent a LOT of time taking the warpage out. Still have two mid horizontal boards to straighten out with the face frame (bisquit joints). Take my advice, spend the extra money avoid all the headaches of crap plywood.

Any suggestions or comments are welcome.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Brad that look like one hell of a job your doing there. Curious about your top measurements . They are the same as one of Incra's tables if my memory serves me right


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Brad that look like one hell of a job your doing there. Curious about your top measurements . They are the same as one of Incra's tables if my memory serves me right


Great memory and you are correct although I think I got mine from Woodpeckers, along with the PRL V2 Lift. Mine is older version with the dial on the plate. I actually prefer this design over the "new" hand crank. I think they changed the design because it is cheaper to manufacture.

If you look at my sig or my uploads, you will see the one I slapped together to complete a custom kitchen I was working on. All the right hardware, just a terrible table support. I would have built my own top but at the time, I had a tight deadline.

Thanks for the kind words and I will post more once the top is on and the drawers are done.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

MoHawk said:


> This was my combo Christmas/Retirement present which is replacing an old Sears router & table. Rockler steel cabinet with Bench Dog CI Table, fence and lift with a 3 1/4 HP PC 7518. At this time I've only used it on some small projects. It has plenty of power, is extremely smooth and rock solid.


What a great way to celebrate the holidays!!!

I like it!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Solid looking table, Brad.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

rtacabinet said:


> I have searched for many router tables on internet buy personally these two tables the most.
> Also i have uploaded the wooden kitchen cabinets made by the help of these routing tables.


That is next on my list. A new table saw workstation.
Hope I can scrounge up the money to slap an Incra system on it. I really could use a 52" cutting capacity. Otherwise, I am going to break down and get the TS55 Plunge Saw System.

I may be stealing some of your ideas and great job on both workstations and kitchens.

I have the same table saw so hide those dimensions or I am taking them!!!!:nhl_checking:


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

jw2170 said:


> Solid looking table, Brad.


Thanks James.

I knew you guys would appreciate what it takes to complete a project like this.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Aleks said:


> Hello. Looked topic. Basically tables differ from mine.
> I did with carriage. The shift of about 16 inches. Very easy to do spikes, end faces of details. Made it in 2007.
> Bought Triton TRA 001 and I will do a new router table.


I like the use of the drawer slides to make a sliding table.

Thanks for sharing.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Phil in Orillia said:


> Built this recently. I'm a beginner wood worker and its not perfect but I'm finally cutting nice dovetails with it so I'm happy. Drawer fronts are made out of wormy maple. Thanks for looking.


Love the wormy Maple. And, the equipment you are using is the best out there.

Nice job! I will be happy if mine looks half as good as yours.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

dcrusoe said:


> I love your table! he should copy it, but this is that one I built


I really like the large surface area you gave yourself.

Thanks for sharing.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

baldir said:


> Not 3.0 because it´s especially fancy or different, but it´s my third router table in just a couple of months. Was in a hurry to get one done which worked OK, but I was inspired by many of the people here on the forum so I decided to improve it. Grabbed scrap wood and put one together, but still wanted some improvements and did my current version. Second one first and then 3.0. Routing is addictive!


Great job and NICE legs!!!!!

The table, the table.:haha:


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Snolan4571 said:


> Ok, here is my almost finished home made base. It has a Rockler pro-phenolic table, pro fence, router lift FX sporting a Bosch 1617, two part dust control, (dust collection box and fence collection) with separate storage area on the bottom.
> 
> Three seperate switches/outlets for controlling router and seperate lights in the DC/Storage Areas.
> 
> ...


The base looks like it was made for your router top. A perfect fit!

I really like it. Thanks for taking time to share your ideas with us.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

*Texas Size!*



JI808 said:


> A couple of updated images of my table. It's on the right. I liked the function of the Kreg fence (liked the table saw style lock) but the top side dust collection isn't a good as the dust collection unit I built. I'm going to do a little work to seal up the large extruded fence on the Kreg to direct/force airflow through the opening at the bit.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That router table is larger than most peoples table saw workstation.

Gotta love all that room to work.

Looks great.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Salty Dawg said:


> Been looking at all the pics here & a lot of nice table have been made. Here is a pic of mine, this is my first router table & will more than likely add to it as I learn more or make another on in the future.


Reminds me of how my router table upgrade started.

Can not go wrong with Kregg.

Thanks for posting.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

EInric said:


> Here is my new table, I just finished it last weekend.
> It's collapsible, when I swing the sides in it only sticks out 4" from the wall.
> I don't have a plunge router YET, but that's on my list, an Incra TSLS for my tablesaw is first up.
> The T-Track & Insert Plate from MLCS and I have another one for a mitre bar that I haven't installed yet.
> ...


I can relate to not having a lot of space. I could not fit another tool in my garage even if someone GAVE one to me.

I really like the compact design. Thanks. I may use that idea for some other tools I have no place to put when I need them.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Mike said:


> I think your table is unique Brian, I don't recall seeing one like it before and on here that is saying something.


I agree and I would not want to be your friend on moving day. It must weigh a ton!

It aint goin nowheres!


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

*router table*

this is the one i have had sence it first came out, does everthing i want , thanks for looking


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Update.

I ordered the Maple face frame material Monday and it arrived Wed. Wittled it down and screwed it together today. I glued two sticks together with biscuits to make the wider top and bottom rails.

I bought a new pocket jig from H.B. It is made from aluminium, has guides for thin and thicker stock, and it can be removed from the aluminium frame for remote work. I already have the Rocket Jig (K3 model now) and I can tell you. This made the job a LOT easier, quicker, safer, and more accurate. Highly recommend.

And, it is $23 dollars cheaper than the "blue" competitors plastic product!

Here are some photos of the jig clamped down to my drill press table. Hope to build a clamping table top to swap with my router top soon. 

I also decided to add a bit drawer to the left of the router to make better use of the space allowed and provide more support for the router. I also finished the router enclosure.

Some stain and urethane and I can move on to the drawers although I may have to wait until the lumber and drawer slides arrive. I am leaning toward Padauk or Walnut and Maple drawer sides for contrast.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Managed to get one photo in before the battery in my phone died.

Here is a photo of the Milwaukee 5625-20 I have been using in conjunction with the PRL V2 router lift.

A precision tag team with all the power to handle everything I have thrown at it.

I will post more pictures tomorrow after the top is back on, the fence is mounted, and the vacuum port is drilled out.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> Managed to get one photo in before the battery in my phone died.
> 
> Here is a photo of the Milwaukee 5625-20 I have been using in conjunction with the PRL V2 router lift.
> 
> ...


And it's colour coordinated 

I was curious as how you find moving the thumb wheel ? On amazon a guy complained it was to hard and preferred the model below it.
IMO I think the thumb wheel is a great idea as this way you dont always have to put that crank in to make small adjustments


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> And it's colour coordinated
> 
> I was curious as how you find moving the thumb wheel ? On amazon a guy complained it was to hard and preferred the model below it.
> IMO I think the thumb wheel is a great idea as this way you dont always have to put that crank in to make small adjustments


I love the thumb wheel. The person you refer to may not have the brake adjusted properly. I have never had a problem with it. Like everything else on the lift, it operates as smooth as butter.

And I agree with you. The fewer tools I require to fine tune, the better. I spend more time looking for my tools than I do woodworking.

This router table is going to really help me be more productive, provide more room in my garage for storing tools, and give me some mobility.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

I finished the router bit storage drawer. It is two tiered with the top removable to access the less used 1/4" bits.

I also added the adapter plate to the 25" Ultra jig to make it easily removable and extended, if need be. This is the perfect fence length for this size table.

The face frame is on and I have temporarily moved most of my router tools into the cabinet for safe keeping. As you can see, I have ample room and I have not even put my routers in it.

I do not have direct access to the router. I rarely need it. So, I did not provide a door on the front for access. I decided to use the extra space to store my Incra\Freud jointing set. I will cut the door down today or tomorrow and install it.

I will be going with a light Oak polyurethane finish soon to protect the wood. Maple is pretty soft.
These photos are deceiving. This router station is very large and the depth of the drawers will be around 22 inches. Full extension slides will be required.

Drawers are next. They will take time so it may be a while before I can set some more time aside to dedicate to its completion. The top right quadrant will house 4 drawers (3x2" and 1x4"). The bottom two will be the size of the face frame.

Thanks for all the suggestions and posted photos. I got a LOT of great ideas from you guys and I have tried to incorporate most of them here. I may be late to the party, but all of your photos really helped me avoid most of the things you guys said you would do differently.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> I finished the router bit storage drawer. It is two tiered with the top removable to access the less used 1/4" bits.
> 
> I also added the adapter plate to the 25" Ultra jig to make it easily removable and extended, if need be. This is the perfect fence length for this size table.
> 
> ...


Omg Brad I think I just had my first router table orgasm! 
I am going to kibosh my adjustable height theory for a router table and instead use that idea for an assembly table as I can see where I would be loosing a ton of storage capability and I'm liking your compartments way to much . Your router bit storage idea is very cool also . Is there a drawer slide underneath it? 
Btw Brad that is the sweetest RT I have ever seen . If they made RT wallpaper yours would be the one they'd use!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Brad did you make that adaptor plate for the Incra adjuster ?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Brad did you make that adaptor plate for the Incra adjuster ?


I bought the adapter plate for the Incra a long time ago. I am not sure if Incra still sells it or not.

It would not be hard to make though, if you have a little metal working skill or know someone. It could even be made from wood if need be. Just counter sink the holes for the T handles.

If you need a template, let me know. I could mail you one if they are no longer available.

The bit drawer is not on a slide. It simple rides on some wood shims. The rear board height locks it from sliding past the face frame and keeps the drawer from tipping out at full extension. Hard to tell from the photo but it does sag a bit when fully extended.

I am really proud of the progress so far Rick and really do appreciate your glowing comments. This workstation has a way to go but at least I can use it to complete the drawers. Once they are done, then it will definitely be worthy of "router wallpaper". I will be incorporating box joints, half blind dovetails, through dovetails, Double Doveltails, Double Double box joints, and Double Double Dovetails in 1/2" Maple and either Walnut or Padauk.

I will be flush mounting all the drawers with NO fronts so all the joinery will be visible.

I will let you guys decide on the dark wood. I also want to try to keep the cost down so I am thinking of using the dark wood for the front of the drawers and the maple on the two sides. As always, your input is always welcome.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Threw on the first coat of stain and poly. Also have the vacuum port and power switch installed.

I have to say, I am impressed with the quality of the grain pattern in the plywood.
The Maple sheen really looks great in person. Just does not show up very well in photos, I am afraid.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Ordered the wood today. Decided to go with the 1/2" Paduak and Maple combination.
The drawer fronts will be in Padauk and the drawer sides will be in Maple. I ordered it from Rockler. Have never gotten wood from them before so I figures this was a good project to see what they provide, good or bad. Let me know if any of you have used their lumber before.

I will be using the Behlen Top Coat Lacquer Gloss on the drawers.

I will probably use some Poplar I have laying around from another project for the back of the drawers.

I realize this is just a router table but I really wanted to be able to show off the capabilities of the Incra Fence and try out some of the jointery I have never used before.

I looked at 4/4 lumber but the cost savings vs. my time just did not seem a good choice at this time.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> I realize this is just a router table .


Geez , your router table is more like a work of ART ! 
Brad I can't believe those words came out of your mouth  Shame on you


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## Gadget01 (Jul 9, 2014)

*pondering choices...*



timbertailor said:


> I really wanted to be able to show off the capabilities of the Incra Fence and try out some of the jointery I have never used before.


I like your table- looks incredibly functional and well thought out.

I recently purchased an Incra Wonder Fence and am trying to decide which length/model of LS positioner to order. I was thinking the 25" would do fine, but the 32" is only $20 more. But is nearly 3 feet of positioner too much? I know it all depends on application, but sometimes I get tools because I like them (rather than immediate need) and discover their full potential later on.

Any tips?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Gadget01 said:


> I like your table- looks incredibly functional and well thought out.
> 
> I recently purchased an Incra Wonder Fence and am trying to decide which length/model of LS positioner to order. I was thinking the 25" would do fine, but the 32" is only $20 more. But is nearly 3 feet of positioner too much? I know it all depends on application, but sometimes I get tools because I like them (rather than immediate need) and discover their full potential later on.
> 
> Any tips?


I think the 25" would be fine. That is what I have and I have never really needed or wanted a larger table. If the piece is much larger, then I just use a hand held router.

If you wanted a table larger than 27" x 43", then you will have to build it yourself. And if you built it yourself, then you could easily built it to have two positions or more and just move the fence where you needed it for larger panels. I have an adapter plate that gives me a little extra wiggle room, but if I had a larger table, I could theoretically handle any size panel. You could do the same. Two knobs and my whole fence system can be moved. Just countersink some insert nuts in two or more places and you are all set.

If I were to go to a larger fence, then I would go with the 36" fence that fits the TS table saw system and just swap them back and forth or build a combination TS and Router Table.


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## Gadget01 (Jul 9, 2014)

Thanks for the quick feeback. Any interesting joinery projects done with it yet? The double-dovetails they show in the promotional video is fascinating.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Gadget01 said:


> Thanks for the quick feeback. Any interesting joinery projects done with it yet? The double-dovetails they show in the promotional video is fascinating.


I have done most of the standard box joints and dove tails. This project will focus on double double dovetails and double double box joints. The top drawers are rather small so it will be a challenge to pick a joint that starts and finishes well with the (4) x 1 1/2" drawer heights.

This is the main reason for picking some contrasting wood. Should make all the jointery pop, especially with no drawer fronts. All the drawers will be raw and exposed, but flush with the face frame. That will be a little tricky but I think I can make it look okay.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> This is the main reason for picking some contrasting wood. Should make all the jointery pop, especially with no drawer fronts. All the drawers will be raw and exposed, but flush with the face frame


That's a great idea . Can't wait to see this


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## ChristopherBKLYN (Jun 29, 2014)

*Router Table from old Shaper*

This is a converted shaper. The spindle was lame, the thing was loud, and I really needed a router table NOT a shaper table. It does not have any nice drawers or compartments yet, but it is darn stable, and I think it will run well (I just finished it tonight). The motor is a Bosch 1617evs. It is held in place with a large aluminum mounting yoke, commonly used in CNC builds.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

ChristopherBKLYN said:


> and I really needed a router table NOT a shaper table.......................


But you can probably see the clear advantages of a shaper, especially when you compare the costs of a router table with the same features.

I really like the large, iron top surface and the sheer mass of it. A router table on steroids!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cool Christopher ,you pulled it off


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

I do not know about you guys, but I really get excited when I get a new batch of timber to whittle on. Especially when I get to use some exotic wood that I have never used before.

I almost went with the Walnut, just because I have used it many times before. There is comfort in that. But, I wanted to do some experimenting while I can. This is going to sit in my garage. This is not fine furniture, like I usually work on. So, if the wood gives me issues or the spray lacquer I want to try does not work out, well, it will not be noticed by anyone except probably me.

So, here is what the UPS man left me today!

I have not had a chance to put a moisture meter to it but I think I will take some readings and let the wood sit shimmed for a week in the garage (yeah, I know, another week.......), just to see how things go. The humidity is so high here on the water that I would rather wait then mess up a bunch of good timber.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

The UPS guy delivers lumber lol ?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> The UPS guy delivers lumber lol ?


Yep. Free shipping on orders over US$100 from Rockler.


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## boardfoot (Aug 13, 2005)

*My router table*

Here is my own version of a router table. It is solid oak with raised panels all the way around. It has 2 drawers for storage and dustports on the fence as well as on the back of the cabinet. I have Hatachi M12 V router with a router raiser (above the table adjustment) on it.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

boardfoot said:


> Here is my own version of a router table. It is solid oak with raised panels all the way around. It has 2 drawers for storage and dustports on the fence as well as on the back of the cabinet. I have Hatachi M12 V router with a router raiser (above the table adjustment) on it.


Good job Larry , but it looks to nice to use lol


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

boardfoot said:


> Here is my own version of a router table. It is solid oak with raised panels all the way around. It has 2 drawers for storage and dustports on the fence as well as on the back of the cabinet. I have Hatachi M12 V router with a router raiser (above the table adjustment) on it.


I love the look of oak and you have done a really nice job with the cabinet. I also hear nothing but good things about the M12 router.


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## Straightlines (May 15, 2013)

*A great question!*



timbertailor said:


> But you can probably see the clear advantages of a shaper, especially when you compare the costs of a router table with the same features.
> 
> I really like the large, iron top surface and the sheer mass of it. A router table on steroids!


Without being too provocative on a router forum, this is the precise question that has rattled around my head since the first time I started seeing fancy pants, and expensive, router lifts, table tops, enclosures, and fence systems. As I started adding up the costs of these components, they quickly surpassed the cost of the comparably powered shapers I saw, so the obvious question was "Why do so many people go down the router table path instead of the shaper path?" So I don't hijack this thread, has this topic been covered on another thread?

The handheld uses of the router are obvious, the table advantages are not, so please help me understand.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Straightlines said:


> Without being too provocative on a router forum, this is the precise question that has rattled around my head since the first time I started seeing fancy pants, and expensive, router lifts, table tops, enclosures, and fence systems. As I started adding up the costs of these components, they quickly surpassed the cost of the comparably powered shapers I saw, so the obvious question was "Why do so many people go down the router table path instead of the shaper path?" So I don't hijack this thread, has this topic been covered on another thread?
> 
> The handheld uses of the router are obvious, the table advantages are not, so please help me understand.


I am sure it has been addressed here before but my reasons are simple. I am really cramped for space. My table had to have all the shaper capabilities but have a huge top and provide storage. The latter part is where shapers just do not fare well.
It could also be a challenge to get some of the fence systems to mount up to a shaper. Not saying it can not be done, just may not be as straight forward as one would like.

The sheer weight is a plus, but can also be a problem for some who are looking for some portability.

Although some shapers have some nice features, you may not find micro adjustments of the bit height on most shapers, and standard bit rings just do not mate up with a shaper table.

So, if you already have a bunch of equipment for a router, the incapability to repurpose some of those accessories could be a turn off, as well.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

"Why do so many people go down the router table path instead of the shaper path?" 

Many of the accessories are nice, but not really needed. A workable RT can be much cheaper. There are also very expensive accessories for shapers too(like power feeders, which can also be used on router tables, by the way)

Cutters for shapers are general much more expensive(there go your savings in a hurry!). Here is one... http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/47186-router-vs-shaper.html

RT's are more flexible, general purpose tools, shapers are primarily production edge forming tools.



"So I don't hijack this thread, has this topic been covered on another thread?"

Yes, many times, in fact I answered these questions just a couple of days ago!

"The handheld uses of the router are obvious, the table advantages are not, so please help me understand."

One common thing I use a table for are dadoes and other none edge routing... doesn't work well or at all on a shaper.

As mentioned, shapers really don't turn at rates that are best for router bits, even on the few that router bit spindles are available for.

All though there is some overlap, they basically excel at different things. I use both for different jobs!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I've seen shaper bits on sale at Windsor plywood and they were 240 bucks! That alone kinda scares me .
If can see where a cabinet shop doing things on a large scale would want a shaper , but for personal use I'll stick with my router tables


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Bought some poplar for the rear of the drawers today.

Should be able to start glue up of the wood this weekend.

That is all.:shout:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> Bought some poplar for the rear of the drawers today.
> 
> Should be able to start glue up of the wood this weekend.
> 
> That is all.:shout:


Looking forward to seeing your new additions Brad


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

*Yet another Router Table*

Earlier this summer I completed my new router table. This is the second table I have built, and third one I have owned. The first table I built back in 2005, and overall have been happy with it. However there were several things about it I wanted to improve. I spent a lot of time planning this table before finally committing to a design. The main highlights of the table are:

1. The lift. I love it. It has really transformed how I use the router table
2. Better fence system. Specifically how the fence clamps to the table, with side block clamps, and quick disconnect levers
3. Dust collection. It really sucks, and I couldn't be happier! 
4. Lots of storage!

I am posting a few pics here to highlight it. I did also chronicle the build of it on my personal blog. You can find that here: Router Table Archives | SawDustNewbie.comSawDustNewbie.com


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

NiceG316 said:


> Earlier this summer I completed my new router table. This is the second table I have built, and third one I have owned. The first table I built back in 2005, and overall have been happy with it. However there were several things about it I wanted to improve. I spent a lot of time planning this table before finally committing to a design.


I really like your table design, top and all. And what is not to like about the lift. Glad to see you got the drawers completed and have room for all your accessories.

You did a really nice job!

Thanks for posting some photos.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Thank you Brad! It was definitely a fun build!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

NiceG316 said:


> Earlier this summer I completed my new router table. This is the second table I have built, and third one I have owned. The first table I built back in 2005, and overall have been happy with it. However there were several things about it I wanted to improve. I spent a lot of time planning this table before finally committing to a design. The main highlights of the table are:
> 
> 1. The lift. I love it. It has really transformed how I use the router table
> 2. Better fence system. Specifically how the fence clamps to the table, with side block clamps, and quick disconnect levers
> ...


Nice job Mike . Looks like covered all the important areas and I'm loving all the storage. Those levers for the fence are very cool to . Didn't know anything like that was even available .
I know it's going to take me 3 times to get it close to right . Nice thing is you have done it once in the past, so you knew what to change . I'm not going to have that luxury lol , and for for sure I'll want something changed . I guess that's half the fun.
I have to say you and Brad are at the top of list here as far as building kickass tables goes


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Thank you Rick! I got the levers from Rockler (link below). They work great too! Since they simply screw to standard 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 bolt the applications for them are endless. The storage is great, I love having everything router related contained into one area.

Cam Clamps - Rockler Woodworking Tools


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

NiceG316 said:


> Thank you Rick! I got the levers from Rockler (link below). They work great too! Since they simply screw to standard 1/4-20 or 5/16-18 bolt the applications for them are endless. The storage is great, I love having everything router related contained into one area.
> 
> Cam Clamps - Rockler Woodworking Tools


Well you and Brad had me rethink my adjustable height router table idea and toss it as the biggest issue with it is going to be loosing all that storage . You can't have it all I guess


Oh wow I just checked out the link . That's going in my favorites ! 
That is the coolest idea I've seen in a while . Those cam style levers should really hold things down . .thanks again


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Unless you are fortunate enough to have a lot of extra space, storage becomes a very valuable commodity.

Have you looked at some of the ATV\Motorcycle\Lawn Mower\Industrial lifts Rick?
I have toyed with the idea once I move and do have a dedicated work shop.
It would not be attractive, but I could customize one to be an effective assembly table with an adjustable height.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Brad I'm going to build a double router table and a separate bench for builds with all those cool clamps and tracks . I may make that adjustable in height , not the RT now .
I have quite a bit of room , I'm just not liking the fact that sometime in the future I have to put a planer and jointer in the garage . But for the most part a planer could be mobile and hidden in the corner for as often as it will be used .
Maybe if I oust the cnc laser 

To top it off there may be a 4/8 cnc router for sale locally in the fall . No idea how I could fit that in if I bought it regardless . Chances are pretty good someone else will get it anyways


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## RayArdia (Sep 18, 2005)

*Old, well-used, but still producing the goods!*

Title refers to me, of course!
I built my router table from some plans, (from somewhere - can't remember where, but I'm sure one of your older members will remind me) sometime about 1980.
The table originally had a 'swinging arm' pivoting from the overhanging bit at top of column. It worked fine but got in the way so I scrapped it about 1990.
Router fitted is an Elu 177E and the lift is from Wood-Rat I think.

The whole table has been my 'friend' for over thirthy years, and came with us when we left UK and moved here to Northwest Spain at the start of 2000. Apart from adding a now much-needed screw-type lift to ease the old muscles and bones I still use it almost daily, its working height is just fine for me. (I'm sure I'd find a lower table a pain in the neck/back!).

Definitely NOT ashamed to show it!!

Anyone else with an old homebuilt table that they're still proud of? Any suggestions, for example regarding a simple, straightforward lift mechanism operated with a front or side-mounted 'winder' or other additions/mods that might be a good idea - welcomed!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Nice job Mike. I am facing the same issue in regards to storage space. I am using a tool cart for my router stuff but I am thinking of making a tarp to hang on the side of the table to house all my stuff. I got the idea from Jessem.

http://www.amazon.com/JessEm-Rout-R-Jacket-Router-Storage-Enclosure/dp/B003KU75V4


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RayArdia said:


> The whole table has been my 'friend' for over thirthy years, and came with us when we left UK and moved here to Northwest Spain at the start of 2000. Apart from adding a now much-needed screw-type lift to ease the old muscles and bones I still use it almost daily, its working height is just fine for me. (I'm sure I'd find a lower table a pain in the neck/back!).
> 
> Definitely NOT ashamed to show it!!
> 
> Anyone else with an old homebuilt table that they're still proud of? Any suggestions, for example regarding a simple, straightforward lift mechanism operated with a front or side-mounted 'winder' or other additions/mods that might be a good idea - welcomed!


Thanks for sharing your table with us. It sure is a lot nicer than the one I was using in 1980, 1990, and 2000, now that I think about it. I would show you a picture of it but I was so ashamed of it, I do not think I ever took a picture of it. When I scraped it, I did not even save it for a step stool. I did save the plexi glass plate but that Sears router it was drilled for died a long time ago!

My oldest tool is my radial arm saw (Craftsman 1968) now but it does not have the "patina" your router table does.

Thanks for posting some photos for us.


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Nice job Mike. I am facing the same issue in regards to storage space. I am using a tool cart for my router stuff but I am thinking of making a tarp to hang on the side of the table to house all my stuff. I got the idea from Jessem.
> 
> JessEm Rout-R-Jacket Router Table Storage Enclosure, JessEm# 05002 - - Amazon.com


Sorry.

I draw the line at dressing my hound dogs and my router table!


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## Maryland CNC (Jul 27, 2014)

Very nice!


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## Maryland CNC (Jul 27, 2014)

Thats pretty!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

timbertailor said:


> Sorry.
> 
> I draw the line at dressing my hound dogs and my router table!


Lol Brad I am with ya on the dog but would it make a difference if I used plywood on the side with some storage built in. My shop in the garage seems to be getting smaller . :thank_you2:


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Lol Brad I am with ya on the dog but would it make a difference if I used plywood on the side with some storage built in. My shop in the garage seems to be getting smaller . :thank_you2:


I know what you mean about garages seeming to be getting smaller.

And since I have no dedicated space for anything except my RAS, adding bins to the outside of an existing cabinet seems like a much better idea than hanging stuff on nails (yep, I am guilty on prior occasions and nearly ruined my EB3 once).

I was just "funnin" about the apron for your router table. Definitely a time saver and very cost effective solution.


----------



## Straightlines (May 15, 2013)

Dan, if you can add that canvas to the outside, why wouldn't you just try to do the same thing out of something like 1/4" plywood? I find that unless one makes the pockets with constructed bottoms, the fabric pockets can be a real headache at swallowing up items that are smaller than the pocket itself. Constructed bins work better for me -- using expanded metal mesh for the bottoms allows dust to fall out.

-- Bradley


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Straightlines said:


> Dan, if you can add that canvas to the outside, why wouldn't you just try to do the same thing out of something like 1/4" plywood? I find that unless one makes the pockets with constructed bottoms, the fabric pockets can be a real headache at swallowing up items that are smaller than the pocket itself. Constructed bins work better for me -- using expanded metal mesh for the bottoms allows dust to fall out.
> 
> -- Bradley


Good point ! maybe incorporate a french cleat system and bins with a lids to keep dust out. Will work on the design. Thanks for the idea.


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

timbertailor said:


> Bought some poplar for the rear of the drawers today.
> 
> Should be able to start glue up of the wood this weekend.
> 
> That is all.:shout:


Well, the poplar I bought is nowhere near the same thickness as the rest of the wood I purchased for this project so I broke out some 3/4" Poplar I had laying around. I have to resaw it. And the kicker is, they are nice long 48" pieces that are 12" wide. Perfect for the bottom drawers.

But my Delta will only resaw under 6 1/2". It brings tears to my eyes to have to cut a good piece of lumber in half, resaw it, then joint it back together.:sad:

I really do want a second band saw with 12" or more rip capacity. The Laguna looks great but I have seen signs of very poor quality control from their table saws.:sad:

Oh well. Tuned up the band saw and set up the planer, and it is go time.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> Thanks for sharing your table with us. It sure is a lot nicer than the one I was using in 1980, 1990, and 2000, now that I think about it. I would show you a picture of it but I was so ashamed of it, I do not think I ever took a picture of it. When I scraped it, I did not even save it for a step stool.


Brad I find it hard to believe you could build anything less than near perfection .
Your pulling our legs here


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Brad 

If your patient keep your eye on Kijji. I waited for nearly two years before I snag an old Delta 20" bandsaw for $850. I was yelling "start the car" as I ran out the guys garage.

My bandsaw is old but runs beautifully. I love it!


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Brad
> 
> If your patient keep your eye on Kijji. I waited for nearly two years before I snag an old Delta 20" bandsaw for $850. I was yelling "start the car" as I ran out the guys garage.
> 
> My bandsaw is old but runs beautifully. I love it!


Don't get me wrong, I love my Delta and I would keep it to do dedicated scroll work.
I will start looking after the move.

Jointed, planed and cut biscuit joints for all the wood needed for the bottom drawer. Will try to finish the Incra work Thursday and move on to the next drawer. Have to do a little engineering to figure out my final drawer widths when doing double double box joints and half blind dove tails. Not a problem when the tails and pins are in their customary positions but take on a whole new meaning with no false drawer fronts and flipped sides.

So what is the rip capacity on your Delta?


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Brad
> 
> If your patient keep your eye on Kijji. I waited for nearly two years before I snag an old Delta 20" bandsaw for $850. I was yelling "start the car" as I ran out the guys garage.
> 
> My bandsaw is old but runs beautifully. I love it!


That commercial still cracks me up even after seeing it 20 times :lol:


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Last day for Rockler's free shipping and I just realized I need a few more pieces of Hard Maple and Padauk. I could of bought a small car with what I have invested so far!

I bought some 3/4" to do some double double dovetails, but since they show up best when two pieces of light wood are joined, I think I am just going to make ALL the drawer handles out of the maple with a touch of Padauk. Kinda like the jointery below (hopefully without any burn marks).










P.S. I now realize I should have started a build thread but someone has to keep this one alive!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> Last day for Rockler's free shipping and I just realized I need a few more pieces of Hard Maple and Padauk. I could of bought a small car with what I have invested so far!
> 
> I bought some 3/4" to do some double double dovetails, but since they show up best when two pieces of light wood are joined, I think I am just going to make ALL the drawer handles out of the maple with a touch of Padauk. Kinda like the jointery below (hopefully without any burn marks).
> 
> ...


Omg, Double dovetails , sweet! 
Brad I wish you would get a compilation of your build and post it in a new build thread .
It would much easier to see the stages involved and helping the newbies like me. 
I wish I could tell you that I will keep this thread going in your absence , but I've got to get my other half dozen projects that I already have on the go done first .
Might be time for a contractor


----------



## Straightlines (May 15, 2013)

timbertailor said:


> So what is the rip capacity on your Delta?



Oh no Brad, don't go asking questions that you know will only get you upset when you hear the answer! :no:


----------



## Straightlines (May 15, 2013)

timbertailor said:


> (hopefully without any burn marks).



Brad, try some mineral spirits and steel on that burn mark.

Those are some super sexy drawers, wow. It will hard to decide whether to use that router table or caress it. As I look at this view, is it my imagination or was all the space occupied by that front piece of poplar (or maple) previously filled with solid Paduak?


-- Bradley


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Straightlines said:


> Brad, try some mineral spirits and steel on that burn mark.
> 
> Those are some super sexy drawers, wow. It will hard to decide whether to use that router table or caress it. As I look at this view, is it my imagination or was all the space occupied by that front piece of poplar (or maple) previously filled with solid Paduak?
> 
> ...


That picture of the Double Double Dovetail is someone else's work but I wanted to give everyone an idea of what the handles on the drawers will\might look like. (my saw does not know how to burn wood. I also hope my joints are a lot tighter, as well.:sarcastic

I have not decided on how far to go with the Padauk. All the drawer fronts will be Padauk, but I am not sure if I will use it on the router bit drawer front and the cubby door for the Incra Bit Set. I have enough "scrap" to do it all but the contrast of the Maple in the upper left quadrant is a design concept that may or may not make it past the critics. We will see how it looks once the drawers are in.

I never design something completely before I start work. Probably not a good practice but I hate to box myself in. I wanted to use DD Dovetails on the drawers but they just do not look good with two contrasting woods so I changed the game plan to incorporate them into the drawer handles. More work but should add a nice touch to the huge pieces of Padauk that will adorn the lower drawers.

I will get a better BS with a much larger rip capacity once I move Bradley. The wood blasphemy is over for now and my BS is pushed back into its corner.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> That picture of the Double Double Dovetail is someone else's work but I wanted to give everyone an idea of what the handles on the drawers will\might look like. (my saw does not know how to burn wood. I also hope my joints are a lot tighter, as well.:sarcastic
> 
> I have not decided on how far to go with the Padauk. All the drawer fronts will be Padauk, but I am not sure if I will use it on the router bit drawer front and the cubby door for the Incra Bit Set. I have enough "scrap" to do it all but the contrast of the Maple in the upper left quadrant is a design concept that may or may not make it past the critics. We will see how it looks once the drawers are in.
> 
> ...


This being the router table thread. I was wondering if you could tell me how much movement your lift has? What's the capacity from top to bottom out?

Al


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Al B Thayer said:


> This being the router table thread. I was wondering if you could tell me how much movement your lift has? What's the capacity from top to bottom out?
> 
> Al


If memory serves me, it is just a touch under 4" maximum travel. I may be able to get more if I move the pads on the router to their extremes but I have never had a need.


----------



## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> If memory serves me, it is just a touch under 4" maximum travel. I may be able to get more if I move the pads on the router to their extremes but I have never had a need.


Thanks for the reply.

Do you have to raise it or lower it to change the bits? Do you change bits from the top or from under the table?

Al


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Al B Thayer said:


> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Do you have to raise it or lower it to change the bits? Do you change bits from the top or from under the table?
> 
> Al


Yes.

All bits can be changed from above the table with the PRL V2.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Harry...
> 
> hope your son has as much fun building his, as i did mine...


Still love the use of the Jessm rail with the Incra system. I also love the wood you used. The face frame really pops.

I know, I dragged this up from the dead but it is a beautiful set up. It deserves being resurrected Bill.

Hope to have my table finished soon!


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## idarwin (Sep 1, 2014)

Since noobs are not allowed to post pictures to the forum until they've done 10 posts, you'll have to make do with this for now.

```
+===+
          +   +
     +----+---+----
    /      o     / \
   +------------+   \
   /\           /\
  /  \         /  \
 /    \       /    \
```


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

idarwin said:


> Since noobs are not allowed to post pictures to the forum until they've done 10 posts, you'll have to make do with this for now.
> 
> ```
> +===+
> ...


rumor control has it that if the picture is on your computer you can post it...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

idarwin said:


> Since noobs are not allowed to post pictures to the forum until they've done 10 posts, you'll have to make do with this for now.
> 
> ```
> +===+
> ...


Sweet looking router table Ian :lol:


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

idarwin said:


> Since noobs are not allowed to post pictures to the forum until they've done 10 posts, you'll have to make do with this for now.
> 
> ```
> +===+
> ...


Wish I had seen this design before I started my table. 

If you answer all of us in this one thread, you should be pretty close to the 10 posts you need.

Welcome to the Router Forums.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

*My 4th router table is the bomb*

I've been flippin routers for better than 25 years. I remember when the dealers were whining about warranties if we used them "upside down". I never listened.

Anyway this is my new router table. I've posted about the router lift in another thread and here I will try to extol the router tables strong points.

The first picture shows the vertical routing side. The carcase is made of leftover 3/4" walnut plywood. I cut dados in the long sides and screwed the short sides in place. A very fast and strong carcase built this way. Everything else is built on this. 

The top is solid surface material. it's only 1/2" thick. But for this table its not a problem because the router doesn't hang from the table. The lift is bolted to the carcase.

The fence is the one shown in the premier issue of ShopNotes. It clamps to the top on the ends. Two big advantages for this are. No slots to cut and with the clamps on the ends it micro adjusts easier and can be done by only loosening one side. The fence opens up in the center for different size bits. Dust collection will be added on the back. (clamps and DC hole not shown)

Second picture shows the second position for the router in the same lift. I added a sliding mortise table from a Greg Paolini design. I bought the plan some years ago. Take a close look at the sliding rails. 8020 material. Well worth looking at in place of the popular blue ones. Far more strength and the tables slide like a sled on snow.

The third picture shows where the lift is adjusted. In back of the fence out of the way. One turn raises or lowers the router lift 1/16". Guess how much it moves with an eighth of a turn. Micro adjusts from on top or under the table.

4th picture is the inserts cut from SS material and offset with a rabbeting bit. I made 3. 

Look how easy the bits get changed. Have you seen my Youtube videos?

Last picture is the lift being adjusted with the top up. 

This table is a work in progress. I will have bit storage inside under the top along with a 7/16" wrench to make adjustments with. Cost is well under $100 if you have a few scraps in the shop. Most of the cost is in the top.

Al B Thayer


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

timbertailor said:


> Still love the use of the Jessm rail with the Incra system. I also love the wood you used. The face frame really pops.
> 
> I know, I dragged this up from the dead but it is a beautiful set up. It deserves being resurrected Bill.
> 
> Hope to have my table finished soon!


Thank you Brad.. 

Yeah, she going on 5 now and still holds her own. The Milwaukee runs like a champ, after the first few weeks of surging she's been fine. Absolutely no complaints on the router and the retrofit to it. The digital height gauge has proven to be handy but not necessary. But it is cool when I do use it *L*
The Jessem Mite-R-Slide is totally under used. It works beautifully when it is used though. The cabinet, Woodpeckers top and the Incra wonder fence will outlast me and if all goes to plan, my grandson will have many years use out of the table as well. :sold:


----------



## Thylacene (Aug 25, 2014)

Quick piccie of the table I am building from a cut down height adjustable office desk.

Sorry it is upside down, mongrel iPad.


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Thylacene said:


> Quick piccie of the table I am building from a cut down height adjustable office desk.
> 
> Sorry it is upside down, mongrel iPad.


Thats okay. When you enlarge the photo, it turns right side up.

Nice size table with all the bells and whistles. Should provide plenty of workspace and last you for years to come.

Thanks for posting a photo.


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## Straightlines (May 15, 2013)

Oh yeah, I like this one ... a lot. You've moved well into the zone where you have refined the functional elements and are integrating them into the aesthetics. This one is pretty close to what I have been planning to build up ... once I have an actual workshop. The Paolini XY table, the flip top, the lift style, the ShopNotes end-clamp style fence.

Which design is your lift? I'm not clear on the benefit of behind the fence height adjustment, why is it preferred? That solid surface is super sexy, although at 1/2" thickness, you might find that it sags over time, but that can be easily corrected by a sheet of 1/2" cab-grade birch ply or a couple of strong-backs that accommodate the lift.

How do you make the conversion from vertical to horizontal mount/function? Do you find the flip-top to be at all troublesome in terms of having to shuffle your workpiece(s) when you need to make bit changes?


TIA, Bradley


----------



## tonymike (Dec 17, 2014)

I'm new to the forum and have a modified store bought set up. Ryobi table saw, 3hp, 1/2" Ryobi router on the right and a Dremel attached to a Stew-Mack mini router base set into a 1 5/8" plank. The sliding miter table and the 2 router mounts are interchangeable. The rails they rest are movable left to right and the wood mounted on the fence can be mounted on the miter table.


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

So John, what do you use the Dremel for in the table?
I always thought the SM setup was more for hand held\inlay work.

I like how you have maximized your work space by incorporating three tools in one table.

And welcome to the Router Forums. Lots of great guys here who are all willing to point you in the right direction.


----------



## tonymike (Dec 17, 2014)

Thanks for the welcome Brad. I repair furniture for a company to pay bills and feed myself. This set up is mostly for fun. The last project I did was a tissue box cover. The sides and top made from 1/16" ply with 1/4 inch 3/4 moldings reinforcing the o/s corners. Cainbric fabric glued to the inside. That was done with the dremel mounted on my drill press over an oak board on an x-y works. I wanted something nicer to play with.


----------



## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

tonymike said:


> I'm new to the forum and have a modified store bought set up. Ryobi table saw, 3hp, 1/2" Ryobi router on the right and a Dremel attached to a Stew-Mack mini router base set into a 1 5/8" plank. The sliding miter table and the 2 router mounts are interchangeable. The rails they rest are movable left to right and the wood mounted on the fence can be mounted on the miter table.


John,

That BT3000 almost makes me cry! That was my first saw, and I still miss it! 

Yours looks great, and I like the modifications.

Thanks for sharing!


----------



## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Straightlines said:


> Oh yeah, I like this one ... a lot. You've moved well into the zone where you have refined the functional elements and are integrating them into the aesthetics. This one is pretty close to what I have been planning to build up ... once I have an actual workshop. The Paolini XY table, the flip top, the lift style, the ShopNotes end-clamp style fence.
> 
> Which design is your lift? I'm not clear on the benefit of behind the fence height adjustment, why is it preferred? That solid surface is super sexy, although at 1/2" thickness, you might find that it sags over time, but that can be easily corrected by a sheet of 1/2" cab-grade birch ply or a couple of strong-backs that accommodate the lift.
> 
> ...


Bradley
I did not see this post of yours until today. The lift is my design I posted in another thread titled "Something you have never seen". The lift is now offered by RightSide Lift in a ready built model not made from wood. EBay. 

Adjustments made behind the fence don't interfere with feather board setup and any other device for routing processes. It's also nice to not have a hole in the top work area.

The thickness is not a problem because the router doesn't hang from the top so no worries about sag. The SS material is quite stiff.

The router table I like is much narrower than most. I build them 36" long and 18" wide. When I run large panels I can grip the panel better than if it were laying on a large surface and you can only get your hands on the top of it. This style may catch on in the future. It does have many advantages. 

I like the fence and thought it would be an easy build but it turned out to be more difficult than building the lift. But it's all I need and like how it works. I can use it on all my router tables. 

When opening the top the fence goes with it and there isn't anything else on the top to get in the way of changing bits. The latest model uses a cam lever to lock the router in place. So now you don't need a wrench. You can go from hand to table in less than 1 minute. 

If your serious about the lift and table I will send you a free plan on DVD. Just PM me your address. I've sold quite a few and now in 6 different countries. 

I have 5 YouTube videos on the system.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tz9ppSlrphc&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Al


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## tonymike (Dec 17, 2014)

Thanks Doug, I would have a hard time giving up that saw even if i had the room for 'Bigger and Badder'.


----------



## Jim Champaigne (Aug 26, 2009)

*Router Table - Home Made*

I used two layers of 3/4 inch plywood to help deaden the sound of the PC router motor. Dust collection hose is in rear. Most of my equipment is on wheels to use when needed. Limited space in basement.

I keep my router bits in a glass front case. Ease to find and easy to access.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Nice clean set up, Jim.


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## Pigpopper (Sep 20, 2009)

Like this one Scotty66.


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## tedelis (Jan 24, 2015)

*Router Cabinet redo*

Hello eveyone! I'm starting to plan for redoing my router cabinet. I redid my top a while ago and just recently added a jessem lift. This made me think about redoing the base. I found this thread when looking for some ideas, it's a great thread and site! I figured I would post pictures of my old setup. Then the new one when I get it finished. 

The old setup is too small and the dust collection is weak. Also, its a bit top heavy. It came from a plan in shopnotes, at the time I thought I would take advantage of the top part of the cabinet being portable. I never have. I do like my bit storage, and might incorporate it into the new one. But I do like the tray/drawer style I have seen in many of the posts on this thread.

My main concern is dust collection. I like the idea of the fence hose being fed onto the cabinet and then a 4" going to the dust collector. I remove the fence when I'm not using it because I use the table as a side support for my table saw. 

Any suggestions or comments on the trays or dust collection would be appreciated. What do people like and not like about what they have?

And since I'm new here, let me know if I should start a new thread about build questions.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Welcome to the forum Tim . You found the right place as this is a really friendly forum with lots of great ideas . Looking forward to seeing your new setup . This ones not to shabby either

I'd start a new build thread as this is my favorite subject lol . It's been done many times before . Then add some pictures here of the finished product


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## oji (Mar 22, 2013)

*My very portable table and dust collection.*

My table is custom made by a friend here in Tucson.
My shop is only 10/12' so space is a premium. This router table is a big step up from putting the router upside down in the bench vice I was using. <yikes>
Please notice my dust collection system. :sarcastic:


----------



## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

Tim,
Welcome aboard; I think you will find what you need here! Looking at yours I would maybe suggest a couple changes; 1. The modular blocks are a good way to hold your bits, I started that way. But I think you will find as you get more and more router bits, the blocks take up a lot more space. I can't tell for sure if you have the plastic inserts. Wood swells and contracts with the humidity, nothing worst than having to use pliers to get an $90 bit out of the wood. plus some species will cause the shank to rust or pit. I use the sink cutouts, some shops will give them away, some charge a couple bucks. Take a look at page one, 1st post. 2. You have a really nice fence, add a replaceable insert in the middle. Cut the ends at 45 degrees, to capture the insert. 3. I would get rid of that hole by making the opening a little deeper, taper the sides and bottom toward the vacuum. 4. Put a on/off switch outside the box, in case you need to shut it off quickly.
Mine is wired up to turn the vac on too, then I turn on the router. These are a few things I learned by trial and error. But this is your setup, there is really no right or wrong way. Make it do what you want. There are hundreds of ideas in this thread. Size of your shop will be a big factor. Keep us posted and lots of photos.
Harry (the real one from TX)


----------



## tedelis (Jan 24, 2015)

Thanks Rick. I started a new thread on my build. Just getting started this week.


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## tedelis (Jan 24, 2015)

Thanks for the suggestions Harry. I had already planned for a switch, and the dust collection angles are a good idea. I am going with the tray plan for bit storage. I used mdf for my old system and never had any noticeable movement. None of the bits have ever gotten stuck at least. I plan on using plywood for the new system. I think i might drill the holes a little over sized just in case of any movement. Any thoughts?


----------



## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Can this thread be put back on with the sticky threads? It has been a popular thread for many years, and would hate to see it lost.


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## BTimmer (Feb 7, 2015)

tonymike said:


> I'm new to the forum and have a modified store bought set up. Ryobi table saw, 3hp, 1/2" Ryobi router on the right and a Dremel attached to a Stew-Mack mini router base set into a 1 5/8" plank. The sliding miter table and the 2 router mounts are interchangeable. The rails they rest are movable left to right and the wood mounted on the fence can be mounted on the miter table.


I have that same saw and love it! I'm currently building a rolling shop cart with my router built into it. I considered mounting the router to the Ryobi like you did, but decided to keep the saw as a separate tool.

Tim in Burien


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## gsxrdemo (Dec 15, 2010)

*Incra LS*

Incra LS 25" under construction
Got my table top from Steve Carmichael. Check him out on YouTube


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Woodalyahave said:


> Incra LS 25" under construction
> Got my table top from Steve Carmichael. Check him out on YouTube


I would be seriously concerned that all that weight of the router hanging off the left side of the table top with no support will cause the table top to sag over time.

Might want to rethink this.


----------



## DWSALTER (Feb 27, 2014)

Love the look of your router bench, what is "NYW plans for the cabinet"?


----------



## gsxrdemo (Dec 15, 2010)

*Incra table underconstruction*



timbertailor said:


> I would be seriously concerned that all that weight of the router hanging off the left side of the table top with no support will cause the table top to sag over time.
> 
> Might want to rethink this.


Good point Brad. I usually put the cart before the horse due to lack of patience. I still have to finish the dust collection side and the main cabinet. I hope to fill in all the voids with your traditional storage drawers.


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## gsxrdemo (Dec 15, 2010)

DWSALTER said:


> Love the look of your router bench, what is "NYW plans for the cabinet"?


NYW


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

NYW = New Yankee Workshop....

New Yankee Workshop - Featuring the Craftsmanship of Master Carpenter Norm Abram


----------



## bigjoe302boss (Sep 8, 2014)

Just got my first router lift and a Bosch 1617 to start my router table. Going to build the cabinet underneath with a few drawers, dust collection, and put it on casters also. Will update when done.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

bigjoe302boss said:


> Just got my first router lift and a Bosch 1617 to start my router table. Going to build the cabinet underneath with a few drawers, dust collection, and put it on casters also. Will update when done.


Great lift and router combination.

Looks like a great start to an awesome table.

Keep us posted.


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## Jimwarren (Jan 13, 2015)

Best of luck jim


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## gsxrdemo (Dec 15, 2010)

*Router lift*



bigjoe302boss said:


> Just got my first router lift and a Bosch 1617 to start my router table. Going to build the cabinet underneath with a few drawers, dust collection, and put it on casters also. Will update when done.


Joe,

I have the same router, what kind of lift is it?


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## gsxrdemo (Dec 15, 2010)

Thanks James, I'm a Woodsmith Shop fan.


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## gsxrdemo (Dec 15, 2010)

*Router Plans*



DWSALTER said:


> Love the look of your router bench, what is "NYW plans for the cabinet"?


Once I figure out Sketch up, I'll let you know!


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## RobbieHolt58 (Mar 20, 2013)

That's very nice. Way more than what I could build at this time


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## Paul Brierly (Feb 19, 2015)

Thanks I'm making a table with a front left side panel slide, out of an old student desk so any photo posts help as I only started yesterday. I just purchased an older Makita 1/2 3600br with lots of 1/2 @ 1/4 bits as it also has a collett. My current consideration is how best to mount the router to the table as I don't have a mounting plate.


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## bigjoe302boss (Sep 8, 2014)

Woodalyahave said:


> bigjoe302boss said:
> 
> 
> > Just got my first router lift and a Bosch 1617 to start my router table. Going to build the cabinet underneath with a few drawers, dust collection, and put it on casters also. Will update when done.
> ...


It is a woodpeckers prv2.


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## Alf Beharie (Apr 12, 2015)

My first router table was a home build using an old A0 draughtmans drawing board as the worktop (A0 = 841mm × 1189mm, almost 3 feet by 4 feet!) and it was combined with a Clark table saw dropped in flush with my Freud 1/2" under the other end...The legs were custom items made from braced pine and extremely rigid, but also quickly removable for ease of transport and the fence was made from 2 pieces of 4"x2" in an L shape which could be locked in position via a custom system I made from galvy steel T-slot channel and Aluminum channel. You could adjust the fence to make it perfectly square via a threaded bar...It was all good. Only time I really used it was when I made a pair of custom raised panel pine doors for an under stairs cupboard with angled tops to match the angle of the stairs. After that I left it in my garden for months and sadly, even though I covered the table up with a tarp, the weather eventually got to it and the chipboard under the melamine veneer rotted away...Had to throw it away in the end. No pictures of it exist unfortunately. Now with another job loomimg where a router table is essential I became desperate for another table but this time I decided to buy one instead of make one. I bought a Trend CRT3 "Craftpro Mk3" for £195, all in. I love the table but my one complaint is that its still got a melamine faced worktop like my old one, so I will always have that fear that I cant leave it anywhere too damp or it will simply rot away like my old one. The pro, rot-free version with Aluminium worktop costs about 2 1/2 times more so this was the cheapest option. This forum will not allow me to post images as I haven't made enough posts yet so to see a picture of it you can simply look it up on your favourite search engine.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

For short but precise work.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

tonymike said:


> I'm new to the forum and have a modified store bought set up. Ryobi table saw, 3hp, 1/2" Ryobi router on the right and a Dremel attached to a Stew-Mack mini router base set into a 1 5/8" plank. The sliding miter table and the 2 router mounts are interchangeable. The rails they rest are movable left to right and the wood mounted on the fence can be mounted on the miter table.


Another BT3 user. You should also join the community over at bt3central.com.


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## kingsuv (Nov 10, 2012)

Here is my current setup. Once I get free from a couple projects, I will redo the layout. I need to move the table saw closer to the middle so I have more support for falloff on larger sheets. I also need to space the lifts out better as a couple are too close when everything is set.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Quillman said:


> For short but precise work.


That is really nice, Pat, Does it work as beautiful as it looks?
I am not quite sure how it works from looking at the picture, but knowing your quality work, I am confident it works good too.

Herb


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

kingsuv said:


> Here is my current setup. Once I get free from a couple projects, I will redo the layout. I need to move the table saw closer to the middle so I have more support for falloff on larger sheets. I also need to space the lifts out better as a couple are too close when everything is set.


5 routers in the table....You win first prize....

That must make production work so much easier....


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

jw2170 said:


> 5 routers in the table....You win first prize....
> .


Wow that's a first for me , seen three but never five ! 
Neat looking setup Bill , thanks for sharing


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

This is what I'm using these days.










Needs a revamp. Planned on doing an Incra setup, but I'm having to rethink it possibly. The big Triton is under there.


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## kingsuv (Nov 10, 2012)

Thanks guys. Good amount of my work is between the flush bit, rabbet and the over size bearing pattern bit. The chamfer and round over bits sprinkle in between some of the steps. It's nice to have those 2 set at the same height all through the project. I'm still about 1 lift short of being content.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Herb Stoops said:


> That is really nice, Pat, Does it work as beautiful as it looks?
> I am not quite sure how it works from looking at the picture, but knowing your quality work, I am confident it works good too.
> 
> Herb



Like a Swiss watch.


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## brewermoe (Apr 24, 2015)

Hi everyone!

Wow! I really appreciate everyone's' contributions here! 

I haven't even bought my first router yet and am planning on building my own table! I thought about purchasing one but I would be spending at least $200/250 just to start. I could buy a lift, or even just a plate for now, and build a box, drop the lift in, (using my new router of course! lol) wire in a switch, add vac and presto! Simple, small, very portable and yet quite effective. KISS as someone said. An hour ago I never would have even considered this! Incorporating into the table saw !! So obvious yet genius! Love the Steve Meade table, the templates and trophies in the background, very inspirational!

I found a Hitachi M12vc 2.25hp on sale for $100, plate for $40 or lift $180, maybe $80 in materials, then I would have a much better table than the $250 store version for roughly the same money ... ... thoughts?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Many members gain the satisfaction from building their own table and can add any bells and whistles to their hearts content.

Simple as...or total overkill...its your choice.

I would go for the simple and functional...


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## brewermoe (Apr 24, 2015)

ok, I've been surfing U-Tube for some visuals on building my own table, I thought this was pretty impressive and just had to share ...

.youtube.com/watch?v=rnpZLYPDTeE

I also seen just mounting the router to underside of a board ! Really? (said with ponder..) No mounting plate ? ... How long would this last? What would be the minimum board thickness you could do this? And the depth loss of the board , is that much concern? 

Has anyone used sound deadening materials to quiet the noise ?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

brewermoe said:


> ok, I've been surfing U-Tube for some visuals on building my own table, I thought this was pretty impressive and just had to share ...
> 
> .youtube.com/watch?v=rnpZLYPDTeE
> 
> ...


If you have the skills and are on a budget, this looks like a good solution. Not sure I would include the shop vac into the design. You are going to want a real DC system eventually if you are serious about woodworking and care about your health and the health of your family. Even a wood allergy can put a real dent in your enthusiasm so I suggest making DC a much bigger priority.


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## ericxsk (Feb 2, 2015)

As a professional accountant, I really don't have a lot of chances to touch on woodwork. Last year, I built a 30' x 16 ' deck after I bought a new house. Early this year, I became serious about taking woodworking as my hobby, and that's why I registed in this forumn. 

As router is very versatile, I decide to either buy or build a table for it. The router table will put in my basement, and if I remove the router fence, I can use the table as my second workbench. Here is what I want from the table: 1) it must be as wide as 4' to support my Incra 25" LS positioner; the table can become a workbench if I remove the Incra fence, where I can do some sanding, or glue jobs; 2) it must have a lot of drawers for storage; 3) it must have a room to seal my Ridgid 5.0 HP shop vac; 4) it must have both miter and T tracks, allowing me to use Kreg Automaxx clamps or other home-made jigs in the future.

After I conducted my research, I decided to DIY. I am a newbie, and I am willing to spend my part time. I believe it is the only way to gain hands-on experience. Anyway, Here below are some photos about my router table. (I used two 3/4" 4' x 8' birch plywood for the cabinet & drawers; half piece of 4' x 8' 3/4" MDF plus 2' x 4' countertop laminate for the top plate; the front inlay is made from yellow birtch hardwood.)


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

ericxsk said:


> As a professional accountant, I really don't have a lot of chances to touch on woodwork. Last year, I built a 30' x 16 ' deck after I bought a new house. Early this year, I became serious about taking woodworking as my hobby, and that's why I registed in this forumn.
> 
> As router is very versatile, I decide to either buy or build a table for it. The router table will put in my basement, and if I remove the router fence, I can use the table as my second workbench. Here is what I want from the table: 1) it must be as wide as 4' to support my Incra 25" LS positioner; the table can become a workbench if I remove the Incra fence, where I can do some sanding, or glue jobs; 2) it must have a lot of drawers for storage; 3) it must have a room to seal my Ridgid 5.0 HP shop vac; 4) it must have both miter and T tracks, allowing me to use Kreg Automaxx clamps or other home-made jigs in the future.
> 
> After I conducted my research, I decided to DIY. I am a newbie, and I am willing to spend my part time. I believe it is the only way to gain hands-on experience. Anyway, Here below are some photos about my router table. (I used two 3/4" 4' x 8' birch plywood for the cabinet & drawers; half piece of 4' x 8' 3/4" MDF plus 2' x 4' countertop laminate for the top plate; the front inlay is made from yellow birtch hardwood.)


Well I'm totally impressed ! Nice job Eric


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Well I'm totally impressed ! Nice job Eric


You can do it too Rick, just have to hit the ole Start button.

Herb


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## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Harry...
> 
> hope your son has as much fun building his, as i did mine...


Love your Incra Fence but where did you get your right angle push block system slide it looks neat:laugh2:!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Rogerv said:


> Love your Incra Fence but where did you get your right angle push block system slide it looks neat:laugh2:!


Hello Roger... welcome to the community..

Thanks for the compliment  , The right angle fence system is actually a "Mite-R-slide" by Jessem I adapted to replace the OEM fence. 

Mite-R-Slide by JessEm


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Harry...
> 
> hope your son has as much fun building his, as i did mine...


Bill I was going threw the router table pictures when I came across yours again . That's quite an accomplishment . I have to find videos on how to install the rails and drawers someday if I end up actually making mine


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Bill I was going threw the router table pictures when I came across yours again . That's quite an accomplishment . I have to find videos on how to install the rails and drawers someday if I end up actually making mine


Rick.. I'l tell you something. Sometimes you just got to go for it. 
Thats what I did..just went for it. made mistakes, learned from em and moved on...ended up with a decent table that has served me well. 
You may very well make a mistake or two along the way, but you will learn from em. 
I honestly think that you "can" make your own table. and I honestly think that you will do a fine job of it. And when you run that first board past that cutter head, and it does exactly what you expected it to do, you'll have a $hit-eatin grin that will take a stick of dynamite to get rid of. 
I'm thinking, once you get going, there will be no stopping ya.


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

It's a neat attached table, I am making a similar one for the back of my saw table, extend the table top and have a multi purpose storage unit as well. this one is nice. N


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## prototype3a (Jun 11, 2015)

Figured I would go ahead and post some photos of the router table I built about 12 years ago. I had planned to add a downdraft cabinet but I never got around to doing that. 

Today, I have a small single car garage shop space. I need to get a sander (probably a Bosch ROS65vc-6) and then a tablesaw. Then I want to build a new router table as an outfeed/storage unit for the tablesaw.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

prototype3a said:


> Figured I would go ahead and post some photos of the router table I built about 12 years ago. I had planned to add a downdraft cabinet but I never got around to doing that.
> 
> Today, I have a small single car garage shop space. I need to get a sander (probably a Bosch ROS65vc-6) and then a tablesaw. Then I want to build a new router table as an outfeed/storage unit for the tablesaw.


That's actually pretty cool . I'm liking the torsion box bracing idea underneath . Nice work Drew , I'd sure like to see what you scheme up next


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## thereefgeek (Aug 18, 2008)

tonymike said:


> I'm new to the forum and have a modified store bought set up. Ryobi table saw, 3hp, 1/2" Ryobi router on the right and a Dremel attached to a Stew-Mack mini router base set into a 1 5/8" plank. The sliding miter table and the 2 router mounts are interchangeable. The rails they rest are movable left to right and the wood mounted on the fence can be mounted on the miter table.


Nice John. I have an old BT3000 also and built a router table to fit in between the saw rails, with a home made fence that clamps to the factory fence. I also add in-feed and out-feed tables when I'm working with long stock.


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## brewermoe (Apr 24, 2015)

@ericxsk ...

Looks like you took a lot into account ! ... sorry, couldn't resist!!!

Kidding aside, that is an impressive table!


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## Peteroo (Aug 17, 2011)

Hi Harry 
here is my nerly completed height adjustable router table, I hope. Ups, no way to do it here at the library. It is in my new post though in router table forums re. incra LS positioner. 
Peteroo


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

*Hey, I like this one!*



Old_Chipper said:


> Couple ones I found in shop Notes!


Thanks BrianS for the link of all of these great tables full of ideas.

Bryan


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

bryansong said:


> Thanks BrianS for the link of all of these great tables full of ideas.
> 
> Bryan


You're very welcome. Every time I look thru this thread, and I have yet to see ALL of it, I'm amazed at the different methods and ideas people come up with to accomplish the same thing... which, of course, is to cut wood.


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## Silverdog (Mar 7, 2016)

This is my project ... (at the moment 80% done) the pictures are 6 month old, I hope I will show newer in the next weeks 
As you see it's an electronic controlled table with the possibility to rotate the axis and the table.


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## newbie2wood (Apr 22, 2016)

Some really great looking tables here - thanks for all the postings.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Sergio that's very interesting . Looking forward to seeing her finished


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

newbie2wood said:


> Some really great looking tables here - thanks for all the postings.


This thread is a great resource for ideas and guidance. Welcome to the club.


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## suds (Aug 25, 2008)

I have mine sandwiched between two Festool MFT tables. Not wuite complete yet but should work well for my needs.


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

Over the years I have gone from no router table, to a piece of ply over a trash can, to a "Norm" style, and then as my one stall garage shop shrunk to a table saw extension. Of all of them I really didn't like the table saw set up. In my new shop floor space is still an issue so I decided to build the router table into my miter saw station. So I guess it's not really a router table, but I don't know what else to call it. I used the Grizzly extension for the table, it's a nice cast iron surface, but you can't use a plate or lift. The router is the Triton 3 1/4hp, the upper and lower dust collection is handled by a built in central vacuum. The vacuum is plumbed for the miter saw, drum sander, and oscillating sander. It also handles the shop cleaning duties. I used an old beat up kitchen drawer unit for bit and accessory storage. It's not fancy but it works for my needs. And the in/out feed space is wonderful.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Looks good! I bet that length will come in handy!


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## thedavel (Oct 3, 2014)




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## thedavel (Oct 3, 2014)




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## thedavel (Oct 3, 2014)

Still working on this thing... need to build a fence... hope 8020 ships to Italy!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

thedavel said:


> Still working on this thing... need to build a fence... hope 8020 ships to Italy!


David that's pretty freaking awesome! Love double router tables , and you've taken it to the next level 

Why did it just dawn on me that your a car audio guy lol


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## thedavel (Oct 3, 2014)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> David that's pretty freaking awesome! Love double router tables , and you've taken it to the next level
> 
> Why did it just dawn on me that your a car audio guy lol


That's correct, I am very much a car audio guy... but I also do some traditional woodworking. This table isn't exactly what I wanted to build, but I needed something that I could take to Italy and move from house to house if needed. When I get back, I will build an awesome shop and outfit it accordingly! 

Here are some neat products I've been developing for the car audio/woodworking crowd.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

^^^ very cool jig you designed there David . You certainly make some wicked speaker pods . 
The FishMan hasn't got anything on you


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## A-1jim (Jan 4, 2009)

Wow those are some great looking router tables.


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## tmyers (Jan 11, 2017)

I mentioned building a new router table for the Kreg top and fence I purchased in my introduction post. The overall box is done and I have mounted my older Craftsman router. Since I want dress up the doors and drawer fronts ever so slightly I wanted to have use of the table. I will post a few pictures, but take note that it is no where near complete. The two top drawer spots will only have a front and will be used to set router bits into. They can be pulled out for ease of access when I am working and returned to the table when finished. The third spot on each side of the router box will have a small door and i will use these areas to store longer items, wrenches, feather boards and such. The center will be the router access and I an still trying to decide if I want it to open to the side or to lay down, (Thoughts?). the bottom box will be two doors that open left and right. When I upgrade to a Triton I will remove the old Craftsman and use it as a hand held router. This box will store that router and any others I accumulate over time nicely.

This is the first item like this I have ever built and I can't even tell you how many wrong cuts I have made, but it has still been fun. 

I have lots of photos but will only post a few.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

good job tim you got the functional part done Its ready to do the cosmetics


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Tim - that's a good looking table and I like the work you've done to it so far. You mentioned that the bottom opening will have two doors, opening side to side. If that is the case, I would suggest a center divider placed vertically to eliminate any possible sagging of that horizontal divider. It won't take up much space and can only help.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Looking good Tim  . That's very simular to what I want to do someday . Looking forward to seeing more as it evolves


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## tmyers (Jan 11, 2017)

I thought about a center piece for the overlay doors to close against and will probably use pocket holes to make installation easier. I also will work on dust collection and a good solid back to button things up and make even more rigid. It is already pretty solid

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

That's very similar to the design of my latest table Tim except the tunnel down the center is much narrower on mine. I needed more drawer space with mine. It sounds like you plan on closing the tunnel in but mine will stay open. I like to be able to work from both sides of the table. That puts me close on one side for small parts and gives me more table from the other side for working on panels.


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## tmyers (Jan 11, 2017)

I got the base plan from Wood Magazine and modified it a bit. Since I am using plywood I am going with overlay doors instead of inset doors. I also did some asking here and made my tunnel a bit bigger than the plans indicated to make sure there was plenty of room for when/if I get a Triton Router.


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## collinb (Sep 10, 2014)

Picked it up at an estate sale a few years ago. It lacks miter tracks but other than that it's great. Will even support 2 routers!









Sent from my MotoE2(4G-LTE) using Tapatalk


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## collinb (Sep 10, 2014)

It originally had a bolt on one corner so it could be attached to the garage floor. I removed that and added locking wheels as my preferred alternative.

It lacks T tracks, miter channels, and fence mounts.

Looks like it was built from a plan at some time, probably 80s vintage. Doesn't appear to be a commercially-built unit. But I haven't been able to find any plans for it out there.

That fence I have on top of it -- got it at a different sale for like $3. Any idea who might have made it?


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

Man! I got to win the lottery so I can have a 6-burner stove, a 6-shot gun and a 6-router table! hahaha


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DerSchuhmacher said:


> Man! I got to win the lottery so I can have a 6-burner stove, a 6-shot gun and a 6-router table! hahaha


I'd be happy to have a dual router table  . I'm certain I'm making one someday


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'm not sure if I posted anything on this rather old thread but my immediate reaction on seeing the table on the first post was "it doesn't get any better than this", but I do have one comment, it either needs casters or a plinth to enable ones toes to go under it otherwise it's a case of leaning forward which is fatiguing.


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## 197761 (May 2, 2017)

I would have to agree, having room for your feet makes a HUGE difference.


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## dirt_dobber (Jun 9, 2017)

*Here is my Router Table...*

Here is my Router Table...
Bench Dog 40-102 ProMax cast iron router table extension mounted in my JET table saw. 
A Triton MOF001C 2-1/4-HP router mounted to the router table with a Rockler aluminum pro plate C.
.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Wow Randy , very nice setup !


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## whitelantern (Jul 25, 2010)

I made some upgrade to my table
Parallel adjustment of the fence "A" and a add a guage for measurment. 
The instruments "C" both height adjust of the router and fence adjustment. 
"B" is the height adjustment.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Christer, a lot of metal work there, very clever set up you came up with.
Herb


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## whitelantern (Jul 25, 2010)

Thanks Herb!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It looks like the hinged addition to the table is meant to slide back and forth to the main table Christer. Is that correct?


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## whitelantern (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Charles!

Yes you right! It is an sliding table. 
It works quite well, I have to do some kind of support that I can put the bit against which is being processed.
I have not yet decided how. 

I made a fast release function I show it at the picture. Both the upper and lower has this. That made it easy to remove the sliding stuff.


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

OK, after the recent discussion of installing the Wixey Remoter Router Readout, I thought I'd better show you guys my router table.

I built this after looking at a couple of hundred router tables, both commercial and shop-built before coming up with the design. 

The top is 1/2" MDF laminated to 3/4" birch ply with laminate top and bottom. It's edge banded with red oak, to match the rest of my shop-built furniture.

The fence was built from a pre-machined aluminum extrusion from Rockler with sliding wood faces. Above- and below-table dust collection is to my Shop-Vac.

The router is a Triton MF001 mounted to an aluminum Rockler ProPlate.

The bit-storage drawers don't fit very well because these were the first drawers I had ever built. The bit holder part of the drawers are replaceable so I can make new ones to accommodate my growing collection of bits.

I mounted the digital readout on the bracket that supports my work light, above and slightly behind the table. Originally I planned to mount it under the table opposite the on/off switch, but there's no light under there.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Charles , you did an amazing job there . Looks like an awesome setup


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

*Oak Park Router Table - Basic*

Quite a while ago I contacted Oak Park Enterprises to see if they still sold plans for their basic table as used on "The Router Workshop". Well they don't sell the plans anymore but they were kind enough to send me a set for free. Thanks Oak Park - very generous.

The plans sat around for quite some time until a short time ago when I decided to put a basic table together.

The walls/back/bottom are 3/4" plywood. The top is made up of two pieces - the bottom piece is an old sink cutout - 3/4" particle board with arborite on the bottom. The top piece is 3/4" melamine covered Mdf. 1 1/2" top should be pretty stable. Pieces were screwed together from the bottom - no glue. I may put an edge on or maybe not - haven't decided.

I used a Kreg insert with Kreg levellers - made installation pretty easy. Insert wasn't predrilled but it wasn't difficult to drill mounting holes - I used counterbore instead of countersink - allows for some play when centering the cutter in the insert. The insert is held in place by the weight of the router.

I've got a Bosch 1617 router in there and also drilled a hole in the insert for the above-table micro adjuster on the Bosch - slick.


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## Badger2 (Nov 11, 2014)

Very nice table. What distance did you have from the front of the plate to the edge of the table?
Malcolm


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

The insert plate sits 5" inches from the front and 5" from the left edge - but.... that's not a hard dimension, that's just the way it worked out.

The top is 16" x 30" and the 3 uprights have nailer strips at the top, so that the top can be screwed to the strips from underneath.
I need to ensure that the insert plate and levelers and eventually, my router, wouldn't be interfered with by the nailer strips.
Secondly, I wanted the router to sit within the left 1/3 of the top, which allows more support area for any work piece I'm dealing with as I feed it into the cutter.
This put the cutter about 10" from the left edge, leaving 20" to the right.
Thirdly, I wanted to leave room in front of the cutter in case I want to router a dado for a featherboard.

So basically, the insert plate landed there, but again it wasn't a "fixed" dimension


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

One from 2005-2006...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

That’s very cool Jack, and a design I haven’t seen done yet


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

thx..i believe this was the original post...http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/2542-hd3drouter-table-complete.html


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> thx..i believe this was the original post...http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/2542-hd3drouter-table-complete.html


Very interesting design and I’ll bet ultra functional. Jack, your not just another pretty face :grin:


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## copythat (Oct 16, 2016)

*My work in progress . . .*

I bought an INCRA router top and stand last year when I got back into woodworking. I recently decided to built a cabinet for it using INCRA’s free plans located here:

https://www.incrementaltools.com/Free_Plan_s/149.htm#guycabinet

It is getting closer to completion. Funny how I have to finish it to a certain extent so I can make the dovetail drawers.

I outfitted it with a Ready-2-Route lift and fence.










I also installed an INCRA Cleansweep. The 4”hose and bottom of the enclosure makes for a tight fit. If I were to do it again, I would drop the enclosure down a tad and go with one drawer below the enclosure instead of two.










The Ready-2-Lift fits fine in the Cleansweep. I have a one foot, 12 AWG cord permanently installed in the Cleansweep so I can lift out the router and use it elsewhere if need be.










A person from another forum asked about the ducting and I thought these might be better shots to help explain it. I think the designer’s entire purpose was to hide the Y connector inside the cabinet. However, that leaves a 4” connection going out the right side and a 2-1/2” out the back going to the fence. I guess it looks ok.




























The back is sort of a hot mess with the power cord, computer cable, and 2” ducting.



















*Note:* There was one design flaw I found that dealt with the bottom panel. The designer cut it to fit only on the edges of the left and right side bottom supports. The plans called for no support anywhere in the middle and everything rides on the middle upright. I ended up putting a solid piece of stock underneath the frame, across the middle (front to back), for support and used the existing holes in the frame to secure it in place. It took out the sag and tightened everything up.


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## copythat (Oct 16, 2016)

Sorry for all the photos. I linked off the thumbnails because I thought they would only appear as clickable links. I guess I need to work on my posting skills.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

copythat said:


> Sorry for all the photos. I linked off the thumbnails because I thought they would only appear as clickable links. I guess I need to work on my posting skills.


Looks great . I bought an Incra top too, and will be making a base . I was curious how you secured the Incra top to your base?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Good Job.
Herb


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## copythat (Oct 16, 2016)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Looks great . I bought an Incra top too, and will be making a base . I was curious how you secured the Incra top to your base?


I used the INCRA base frame in conjunction with the INCRA top. The frame came pre-drilled for #10 wood screws. I included a snippet from their instructions.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Gottcha , thanks Rob .


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## Poplarguy (Dec 19, 2017)

After months of browsing, drooling, and learning from everyone's router setups on this forum it's time to post up my cabinet and hopefully there is at least something on it that will help or inspire others looking to do something similar. Some vintage touches (as I'm into old tools) to add a little personalization to it. All 3/4 marine ply with dado construction, drawers are dovetailed, from 3/4 poplar as well as the drawer fronts. Top and bottom are both 2 layers of ply, and are both braced underneath with 2 x 2 x 1/4" aluminum angle to eliminate any chance of sagging (probably overkill but that in life worth doing...). Cabinet rides on 4 Footmaster GD-60 leveling casters (highly recommend them, they are solid as a rock). Incra clean sweep is still in the process of install and is a bit of a tight fit as I wanted to maximize drawer space and still keep with the overall working height I was looking for. In the near future I'll be adding a miter track as well but it hasn't been a priority yet. Some day when I'm bored and/or run out of bit box storage I'll probably make some kind of in-drawer bit storage but for now my bit collection hasn't outgrown the drawer space.

For me it's more than a router "table" but a router "base station" that holds just about everything I own router oriented save for a PC dovetail jig which just might fit behind the cabinet door after the clean sweep install (fingers crossed). It's incredibly heavy and solid and so far I'm very happy with it.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Tom - I saw this in your other thread as well. An excellent build and nice pictures. You did a great job on the router station - hats off to you.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

copythat said:


> Sorry for all the photos. I linked off the thumbnails because I thought they would only appear as clickable links. I guess I need to work on my posting skills.



I loved looking at every picture you posted. Very well done.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Tom that looks great . I really like the look and functionality


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

Hi Tom,your router table is gonna be around in 200 years or more,built to last & beautiful.


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## Poplarguy (Dec 19, 2017)

jj777746 said:


> Hi Tom,your router table is gonna be around in 200 years or more,built to last & beautiful.


Thank you for the kind words, I hope so after all the work that went into it.


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## plato961 (Mar 27, 2018)

*shop router*

can anyone tell me a model number or manufacturer?


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## suds (Aug 25, 2008)

Tom that is one beautiful setup. You've inspired me!! I'll get started as soon as I quit drooling over that beautiful hammer. Where did you ever find that?


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

plato961 said:


> can anyone tell me a model number or manufacturer?


If I recall right, this is the 3d thread asking about that. And this is not the right thread for questions like that. :frown:


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## Poplarguy (Dec 19, 2017)

Putttn said:


> Tom that is one beautiful setup. You've inspired me!! I'll get started as soon as I quit drooling over that beautiful hammer. Where did you ever find that?


Putttn, I assume you're talking about the H.D. Smith hammer in my pic? They can be found at old tool sellers occasionally, this one I stumbled upon locally and it cleaned up nicely with a little elbow grease. Hard to believe it's ~110 years old.


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## SaraHandcraft (Jun 22, 2018)

Your table is amazing! Do you make it entirely or you bought it and later customizing it?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

SaraHandcraft said:


> Your table is amazing! Do you make it entirely or you bought it and later customizing it?


Hi, this is a really old string. Most of the tables you see in it are shop made, sometimes from plans, others from designs based on one by Norm Abrams, who broadcast on PBS on The New Yankee Workshop. He is probably the best TV woodworking expert ever. Highly regarded. There are a lot of his videos on YouTube, just search for his name or the show's name. I haven't seen it for some time, but you could put in his name followed by Router Table and find it. 

But you don't need to make such a nice table to start with. There are many strings here on how to build an economy table to get started with. The top is the key thing, and that can be made with a layer (or two) of decent plywood. A seconc layer gives you greater stiffness, plus you can cut out an opening for an aluminum mounting plate to which you bolt the router. That top can sit on anything from an old table to spanning across a couple of saw horses. 

Not sure what your skill level is, but making your tool stands is a great way to learn about woodworking. I have a table top and fence from Rockler (I used to have more money than time). It sits on top of a Rockler steel stand. But I have added plywood sides and shelving to customize the table. But today, I'd make a table, at the least to exactly the height of my table saw so I could use it as an infeed table for large workpieces.

The nice thing about some of these older strings is that they're filled with great ideas, information and inspiration.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

plato961 said:


> can anyone tell me a model number or manufacturer?


Looks like an old Stanley M1-A router motor.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ST...540338?hash=item23a6c148f2:g:oPQAAOSwdoNauBrq

Herb


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

*Lift first table later*

Been a year in designing and finally it's working. Now I need to design a table.
Here's some images for ya. It was all cut by a 1989 Makita portable table saw and drilled with a Delta drill press.


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

Here's some more. ...wasn't sure how many I could load at one time. I used a gear puller for the screw adjustment. I think it raises .050" per turn. The green plastic that the screw rests in is some high density industrial plastic. Using that under the lift means I don't need a lube for the top of the ball on the screw.
In the next to the last image, you can see a curved 1/4" plate against the router. It contains 3 set screws. Those set screws inset into 3 hole I lightly drilled into the router body. When the router is set in place, it locks into those protruding set screws. Once the router is positioned, I screw on that funky looking aluminum plate you saw in the first batch of images.

On the right side of the lift is a long screw to lock the router once the height adjustment is made.
Only drawback so far is I probably should have allowed another inch of router travel.
....................that's my story and I'm stickin' to it.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Sooo...not your first rodeo then?
Beautifully crafted, Randy! 
Damn, you do some nice work; and your photo coverage is excellent. Keep 'em coming, Sir.


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

I like making stuff. When I looked up DIY router lifts, seems everyone makes em out of _*wood!*_ ....oh the_* horror!*_>
I don't have a nice warm climate controlled shop, so I wanted metal. Next was figuring out a design and how to cut the aluminum, how to fasten the router, how to make the lift raise. I'd be lost without the internet. I got ideas, but nothing close to what I came up with. It only fits my Porter Cable router.
I need to figure a way to shield the 1/2" rods from dust getting down into the bushings.
On the corners of the lift part, you can see the brass tubing that rides on the steel rods. Inside each of the 4 sections of tubing are 3 bronze bushings stacked on top of each other, then staked in place.


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## tulowd (Jan 24, 2019)

Here's my temporary tabletop solution; also have an Incra positioning system with Micro Adjuster, but it gets in the way so I went Woodpecker with their killer fence. Getting the micro positioner for this next to complete the financial ruin, lol


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

That’s an awesome looking setup Paul . Looks like your hooked like the rest of us lol


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## wagspe208 (Jan 26, 2019)

ranman said:


> Here's some more. ...wasn't sure how many I could load at one time. I used a gear puller for the screw adjustment. I think it raises .050" per turn. The green plastic that the screw rests in is some high density industrial plastic. Using that under the lift means I don't need a lube for the top of the ball on the screw.
> In the next to the last image, you can see a curved 1/4" plate against the router. It contains 3 set screws. Those set screws inset into 3 hole I lightly drilled into the router body. When the router is set in place, it locks into those protruding set screws. Once the router is positioned, I screw on that funky looking aluminum plate you saw in the first batch of images.
> 
> On the right side of the lift is a long screw to lock the router once the height adjustment is made.
> ...


What do you do when you need to remove your harmonic balancer?
:smile:


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## LeftFinger (Mar 21, 2019)

Home made table recycled stand


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I'm almost finished with my latest table and I thought I would post how I set up my remote switch. I made the table with the hole offset to one side so that I could be close to the fence for small parts on one side or stand on the other side and have extra room for wide panels. This meant that a remote switch couldn't be mounted under the table, it had to be above and capable of facing either way so the only option for that was fence mounted. I bought a magnetic paddle switch and tried that but the switch turned out to be defective (more on that later) so I switched to a common light switch in a water proof box.
The box I had built in the fence to allow for dust collection turned out to be just the right width for the outdoor electrical box. All I had to do was use thin plywood to extend the sides up and add strips on the inside to trap the ears on the electrical box. The box simply lifts up and out so that I can turn the fence around to face the other way. The photos show that I used a surface mount box on the router cabinet side and I used an old extension cord for a wire going to it and that gave me a built in extension cord for the table at about 15' long. Another piece of the cord runs from the plug in box to the switch box and when the switch turns on it energizes the plug ins. I've been able to run both my M12V2 and my shop vac at the same time from that box so the switch turns both on simultaneously.
So far I'm really liking having the switch on the fence. There is no fumbling around guessing where it is, I can see it and it's inches away from where my hands are so I think this is a better solution than an under table mount. The paddle switch I bought came from Powertec through Amazon. They refunded my money for the switch but I'm still out the shipping. There is nowhere locally to buy one. Powertec never responded to two emails of my asking for advice to see if something else could be tried to make it work. The switch turns the router on but it won't stay on unless I'm holding the start button down. The magnetic part is defective. It's not a total loss. I turned the switch around in the frame so that the start button is under the paddle and I added a bolt through the paddle to contact the switch and I'll eventually use it on my drill press as a hands free dead man's switch. My advice is don't buy this switch through mail order.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Great idea having the switch stalk mounted like that Charles . I never would have thought of that


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## Old_Tom (Jun 28, 2019)

I am in the process (LONG PROCESS!!!) of building my table. I started with a home made table top on a mitre saw stand, but found it a little high and a bit too much movement. I have also made fittings for three of my routers at different times, but got the Triton TRA001 and it will have a permanent home mounted in the table.
I suppose you understand why I haven't finished it yet after six months!!!!
Cheers.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Good job so far Tom. It looks like all you need is a fence and you are ready to rout.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Man, this is an old string, 2009. But it has some great posts and wonderful ideas. Worth a review now and again.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DesertRatTom said:


> Man, this is an old string, 2009. But it has some great posts and wonderful ideas. Worth a review now and again.


I’d certainly hope the pics keep a coming . My fav thread by far


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## Old_Tom (Jun 28, 2019)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Good job so far Tom. It looks like all you need is a fence and you are ready to rout.


Hi Charles. Not quite but it is useable now at least!


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## Old_Tom (Jun 28, 2019)

Hi Guys. I got the router table finished, except for a kick of clear and a fence. I have a dust collector hose fitted to the output port on the Triton Router which exits at the rear of the table. There will also be a "Y" fitting on the rear tube with a hose from the DC fitting on the fence.
Don't look too hard; you might just see some of my build mistakes:surprise:wink:. Not bad for a first effort me feels. It will do the job nicely!
Cheers.


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## Old_Tom (Jun 28, 2019)

Finally got the fence completed! :grin:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

nice work...


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## mr happymoose (May 11, 2014)

I've got to stop looking at this thread, it's making me feel very inadequate


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Awesome looking setup Tom. I’m kicking myself for not building my own


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Great build, Tom! You might want to consider increasing the cabinet DC outlet size if you aren't happy with the collection efficiency inside the cabinet. With the open front there's no shortage of venting but the small port won't extract a huge volume. Easy to upsize if it proves that you need to.


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## Old_Tom (Jun 28, 2019)

DaninVan said:


> Great build, Tom! You might want to consider increasing the cabinet DC outlet size if you aren't happy with the collection efficiency inside the cabinet. With the open front there's no shortage of venting but the small port won't extract a huge volume. Easy to upsize if it proves that you need to.


The DC size is a restriction of the port size on my shop vac. For the under table dust collection it draws directly off the collection port on the Triton router (indicated in the photo), not from in the actual cabinet. I left the cabinet front open for air cooling and venting for the router.


Thanks guys. I appreciate the comments. Yes it is satisfying to get it to this stage........nothing is ever finished though


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Makes perfect sense, Tom.


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## Silverdog (Mar 7, 2016)

My last effort on the subject: Rotala, an electronic controlled router table that will be presented at the Rome Maker Faire 2019
This is just a preview , the project still needs a lot of documentation and v3 is a rendering for the moment ... I'm waiting for the metal parts to be delivered from the laser cut service.
https://www.tanzolab.it/rotalapanel_Specifications
Software development (Open source) https://github.com/SergioSubrizi/rotala-panel-master runs on Raspberry PI with touch Screen
Hardware design will be realesed with Creative Commons Licence
The mechanics consists in a trunion slide mechanism fence and height are stepper motor controlled, titling + and - 45° is visualized with extreme precision but manually operated.
Here some tests of the software:


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## David Bradford (Sep 12, 2019)

Got this table partly done a few years ago then had it in storage. Bringing it out and going to finish it now.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Fortunately, I never had to build a router table.

The Oak Park table I bought from Canada does everything I need....


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## anndel (Aug 18, 2019)

*Nice and Simple*



jw2170 said:


> Fortunately, I never had to build a router table.
> 
> The Oak Park table I bought from Canada does everything I need....


Like the title says, nice and simple.


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## douce1949 (Oct 7, 2011)

Thank you for your post about veterans. I have 3 close friends that wrote the ultimate amount on their checks to Uncle Sam.


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## Pagan Wizard (Nov 24, 2008)

I haven't set it up yet (very long story), but I have the gen2 version of this table. Sommerfeld stopped making router tables a while back, but I heard they are getting ready to restart production. These things are not at all inexpensive either. I hope to have my shop up and running by this upcoming Spring.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Pagan Wizard said:


> I haven't set it up yet (very long story), but I have the gen2 version of this table. Sommerfeld stopped making router tables a while back, but I heard they are getting ready to restart production. These things are not at all inexpensive either. I hope to have my shop up and running by this upcoming Spring.


After I built my first router table, I would never buy one ready made. Way I see it, if I make one I get exactly what I want and need. If I buy one I get what someone else thinks I want and need - and they are never right.


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

heres mine


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Nice looking setup James!


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

This is my new Kreg rt (minus dust control attachments.) I will include a couple of drawers & shelves within the table frame plus under-table dust collection box & then post more pics when done.Above table dust is controlled by the in-fence dust port James jj777746.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

jj777746 said:


> This is my new Kreg rt (minus dust control attachments.) I will include a couple of drawers & shelves within the table frame plus under-table dust collection box & then post more pics when done.Above table dust is controlled by the in-fence dust port James jj777746.


I was wondering about dust collection . Is their an attachment for the fenced, or are you building that ?


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

Hi Rick, the table top dust port fits on the rear of the fence & comes as part of the complete package.James.jj


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

jj777746 said:


> Hi Rick, the table top dust port fits on the rear of the fence & comes as part of the complete package.James.jj


I really like the looks of that fence and lock down system . Certainly looks sharp, almost too nice to use


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## aphead (Apr 1, 2012)

Just completed her.


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## NorhS85 (May 13, 2020)

*Nice*

Really nice!



Old_Chipper said:


> Okay members, here is your chance to brag. My son in GA, wants to see pictures of router tables to give him some ideas for his. I told him to look at mine and he don't need to see any others, but he didn't believe me.
> So here are 3 of mine to get us started. Lets show him what you got.


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

Update on my table. Should have put my progress here instead of elsewhere.
Hope I didn't break any rules by some duplicate images.
Started with a steel framework and added 3/4" plywood, then put on some free to me blue laminate, and inset my lift to the table and added some Kreg tracks. So finally got something serious started.


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

I went with 3 by 3 angle aluminum for the fence. I wanted a split fence.... made of metal because metal doesn't warp or swell. I don't have a climate controlled carport. 😄
I cut slots in the fence to adjust the split fence.
For the split fence itself, I found two pieces of 1 1/4" square anodized aluminum tubing. I used JB Weld to glue the two pieces of tubing together, one on top of the other...... then cut em in half to make the split fence. The tubing dimensions are extremely accurate, to the fence is very true.


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

I briefly thought about using the open tubing for dust control but nothing came to mind.
Tom mentioned utilizing the tubes for that purpose, so I gave it a lot more thought.
I came up with cutting some square aluminum tubing and shaping them into 'L' shapes so I could attach some vacuum hose to them. There are two of those 'L' pieces, one for each side of the split fence.
Once inserted into the fence ends, the two hoses connect into a PVC connection so that I can connect to my shop vac.
This suction system only works on the two lower tubes. 
Thanks for the push, Tom. It got me motivated.
It works fantastic. Eats dust almost before it gets made. 😄


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

I am devising a reducer molding for a flooring job I recently completed. Two doorways and a 9 foot span across a kitchen to dining room opening.
I decided that I had to come up with some sort of outfeed table. Router tables are new to me, so all I can envision using it for in short time, will be small items like trim or moldings.
I decided on a narrow outfeed table long enough to support 8' material.
I need everything on this table to be portable, for storage or taken to a job site. This table extension needs to be easily installed and removed. It folds flat when not needed.
So here's my mini-outfeed table. It's more like a ramp. It's just under 7 inches wide. I used two pieces of 1 by 4 pine that I had at the house. I split one board in half, then jointed all edges true using the split fence, and combined the 3 pieces of pine together to make the 7 inch wide outfeed table.
Kind of a fun learning process, something I haven't done before.
The outfeed table needed a leg to stand on. It also needed of course, to be adjustable.
Hope the images show what it is and what it does.
I made. 3/8" or so rabbit joint for the adjustable part of the leg to fit into. The slots would have done just fine on their own without having the support of the rabbit...... but I guess this was a great time to practice using my new toy.

Anyhow, most members have seen my bits and pieces that I have placed randomly, but they make more sense (I hope) when stacked together like this as a project.
Table still doesn't have legs yet..... another day.
For now, it's functional on my table saw table..... sort of.


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

Wow.... page '57... my year! 😄


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

jw2170 said:


> Fortunately, I never had to build a router table.
> The Oak Park table I bought from Canada does everything I need....


That table can't possibly work jw. It has to be 5 layers thick of 3/4 inch Baltic Birch or it's going to warp. 😄


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

strongly suggest you add a foldable leg bracket...










adding a brace is a big plus too..










or go whole hog...


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

Thanks stick. I was thinking of adding a connection of thin stranded cable to the hinge to avoid overextending it. Not sure it needs to lock because that will be done on the edge of the table where it is connected. The connection of the outfeet table isn't finalized yet. Pin might work, but a machine screw would be more secure.
I attached 1x1 aluminum tubing to the far side of the router table. That makes a lip for this extension to set on and make it flush with the router table. I need either a pin or maybe a screw tapped into that 1x1 aluminum to secure it. Whatever I decide, it needs to be easily or quickly removed.


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

Your "whole hog" looks good.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

ranman said:


> Your "whole hog" looks good.


I used the ''whole hog'' on my in and out feed tables... (TS and RT)...
strong and rock solid...


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

Just the fact it locks makes good sense. More rigid. Thanks.


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## ranman (Oct 27, 2017)

I ended up just adding a turnbuckle for now because I needed to use it today to make some reducer moldings. The turnbuckle pulls the outfeed table against the router table. Working on the lawn, the hinged leg can't slip.
This is my first real use of the table and it's accuracy for making a two stepped rabbet makes me happy. The first rabit is about 70 thousandths by 3/16" and the deeper second one is 3/16 by 1/8".
This reducer molding overlaps some vinyl flooring I installed. The vinyl is 75 thousandths thick. The 70 thousandths rabbit allows for some urethane construction adhesive or some other firm setting glue. The first step overlaps the vinyl edge and the second step will support the molding so that the narrow overlap can't break off. This is a very low profile trim, unlike factory wood trims that are usually at least 1/4" taller than the flooring..... a tripping hazard.
The trim transitions vinyl flooring to newly refinished oak flooring. Metal would have looked tacky.... I wanted sexy 🤗


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## MikeBee (Jun 6, 2020)

Harry great set ups. lot of thought and effort been put into making them.


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## wmoore (Dec 24, 2012)

I have been using a folding multi-purpose table for my router table for years. I ran across a set of plans in 2013 for a nice router table with storage, and was waiting for the time to make it. Well now that I am retired, I thought this is the perfect time. Then I got to pricing the materials to build it, and with the times as they are, the materials alone was going to cost $800, and that didn't include a new router. So I gave it some thought and came up with this. Craftsman tool box on rollers, Bosch router table, and a Metabo (Hitachi) router. All in was $465. All I like at this point is finishing the dust collection hook up. I think it will work fine for my needs. And it has plenty of storage. I did attach a good power strip to the back of the cabinet, so I wouldn't have to continuously fish the vacuum plug in and out of the cabinet.


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## newbie2wood (Apr 22, 2016)

wmoore said:


> I have been using a folding multi-purpose table for my router table for years. I ran across a set of plans in 2013 for a nice router table with storage, and was waiting for the time to make it. Well now that I am retired, I thought this is the perfect time. Then I got to pricing the materials to build it, and with the times as they are, the materials alone was going to cost $800, and that didn't include a new router. So I gave it some thought and came up with this. Craftsman tool box on rollers, Bosch router table, and a Metabo (Hitachi) router. All in was $465. All I like at this point is finishing the dust collection hook up. I think it will work fine for my needs. And it has plenty of storage. I did attach a good power strip to the back of the cabinet, so I wouldn't have to continuously fish the vacuum plug in and out of the cabinet.


If I can ask, which Bosch Router cabinet is that? 1181/1141? Looks like the 1181?

I've been contemplating the same (cost to build) but have read mixed reviews about the Bosch tables.

Nice job putting those 2 things together.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I know they had some warped table problems a few years ago Jessie because we saw guys on here complaining about them. Whether they fixed that since I don't know.


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## wmoore (Dec 24, 2012)

newbie2wood said:


> If I can ask, which Bosch Router cabinet is that? 1181/1141? Looks like the 1181?
> 
> I've been contemplating the same (cost to build) but have read mixed reviews about the Bosch tables.
> 
> Nice job putting those 2 things together.


It's the Bosch RA1171. I picked it up at Lowe's for $199. Not sure why they had the router priced so low at $89, other than maybe it was listed wrong. The day it shipped, the price went to $179


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## wmoore (Dec 24, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck 
I've had no problems with it at all. The panels are straight and true. I had read some of the previous reviews also, and if my wife didn't work for Lowe's I wouldn't have purchased it. Had it been bad, I would have had her return it!


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## Skaggydog (9 mo ago)

There's a lot of nice tables in this thread, but you ain't seen mine...


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

You are right.
Maybe many more to come, like yours.


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## FreeTime (Dec 2, 2012)

Finally finished my saw horse router table replacement. Took a chance on the butcher block top (material cost probably a wash, and no glue-up needed ... not regretting it yet (Maybe should have went with a darker stain on the top to hide any scuff marks). I installed plate levelers in case I need them in the future, but for now everything is nice and flush so I have them backed off. Have enough storage in one place now I don't have to go to 3 different locations in the shop for router stuff. I'm still retooling the fence but will be reusing most of it. (old length:48, new table 50x24). The bit storage trays are side by side and come out from either side. Firs time for making and installing drawers.- the came out ok, but I did learn alot. Had enough material left over, I built a storage cabinet for the saw.


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