# Rockler Router Table Top



## n6vc (Oct 11, 2012)

Hi All,
I got the e-mail from Rockler advertising their package deal that included the fence and insert. It wasn't exactly what I had designed for my router table, but it was close enough. I bought both the top and the accessory kit they had on sale, too.
After receiving all the items, I got the old tape measure out and made an accurate drawing of all the parts. 
One of the things I didn't expect was the 8 leveling screws used to adjust the height of the insert. Unfortunately I didn't get the package of screws that were supposed to come with the top. A quick call to Rockler put them in the mail heading my way.
Overall I am very happy with what I got. One thing I anticipate having trouble with is the friction of the leveling screws in the MDF. Initially it will be hard to get a good feel for the top of the screw and the plate. What I am thinking about doing is replacing what's in the mail for 8-32 NF machine screws. One nut on top, under the insert, another nut underneath to act as a lock nut. I feel this will give me a finer touch on the adjustment with the fine thread and a positive lock after the adjustments are completed.
Has anyone else gone through this process?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

That should work fine, however, keep in mind that when you tighten the nuts down it tends to move the stud. Be prepared to make several adjustments before you get it right. Or, you could just use some threadlocker and one nut on top. On mine (homemade table), I just rabbeted the opening just the right depth for my plate so that I didn't need leveling screws.


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## n6vc (Oct 11, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> That should work fine, however, keep in mind that when you tighten the nuts down it tends to move the stud. Be prepared to make several adjustments before you get it right. Or, you could just use some threadlocker and one nut on top. On mine (homemade table), I just rabbeted the opening just the right depth for my plate so that I didn't need leveling screws.


Thanks for the input, Chuck. I expected this table to be made the way yours is. I was surprised at what Rockler did. 

One thing I can do is make adjustments like this one requires. I've spent 40 years doing this kind of work.

Another concern that has reared its ugly head is the problem of the top hold down screws. I probably will omit them altogether. It would be too easy to warp the plate.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I don't use hold screws and there are others that don't here and none of us have a problem with the router and plate lifting or tilting. If you don't have hold down screws then it is much easier to change bits by just popping the router and plate out of the table. You can also use the router with plate to freehand rout. The plate makes the router much more stable when profiling edges.


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## n6vc (Oct 11, 2012)

Here is what you get for the fence in the package. I was experimenting using the fence as an offset fence.
Using shims against aluminum backer and the MDF face is one way to get an offset.
I will have to say, this fence is good and stout! 
In another thread, I presented an offset router fence that I will finish developing for this table. The rounded edges provide a perfect surface to positively clamp the base. On my own, I would have never thought to round the edges for clamping.


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

n6vc said:


> One of the things I didn't expect was the 8 leveling screws used to adjust the height of the insert. Unfortunately I didn't get the package of screws that were supposed to come with the top. A quick call to Rockler put them in the mail heading my way.
> Overall I am very happy with what I got. One thing I anticipate having trouble with is the friction of the leveling screws in the MDF. Initially it will be hard to get a good feel for the top of the screw and the plate. What I am thinking about doing is replacing what's in the mail for 8-32 NF machine screws. One nut on top, under the insert, another nut underneath to act as a lock nut. I feel this will give me a finer touch on the adjustment with the fine thread and a positive lock after the adjustments are completed.
> Has anyone else gone through this process?


Almost ordered the same setup from Rockler but decided on building my own. Designed my own fix for the MDF version that Rockler uses that I also didn't care for, may work, but I don't like it. 

Here's what I'm doing which I think is similar by what you explained. I put this together in Powerpoint for my table design.


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## n6vc (Oct 11, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I don't use hold screws and there are others that don't here and none of us have a problem with the router and plate lifting or tilting. If you don't have hold down screws then it is much easier to change bits by just popping the router and plate out of the table. You can also use the router with plate to freehand rout. The plate makes the router much more stable when profiling edges.


Hi Chuck,
I would not hesitate to use a polycarbonate plate, but I would have to practice before I would feel comfortable using the aluminum plate as a router base. I am used to seeing what's going on.


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## n6vc (Oct 11, 2012)

BRAVOGOLFTANGO said:


> Almost ordered the same setup from Rockler but decided on building my own. Designed my own fix for the MDF version that Rockler uses that I also didn't care for, may work, but I don't like it.
> 
> Here's what I'm doing which I think is similar by what you explained. I put this together in Powerpoint for my table design.


Hi Brett,
Rockler uses the friction fit of the screw in the MDF which their tech support claims to be OK. They said they have never received a complaint from anyone. I can't say one way or the other, yet, but I would expect over time the screws might back off. I considered using Tee Nuts or inserts, but decided the screws with two nuts would work OK and I wouldn't have to make any modifications. Using Tee Nuts or inserts, the holes would need to be modified.
Using the method presented in your drawing, I would have to modify the router plate and the router table. Thanks for the suggestion, however.
One of the good things I gained from buying the router table from Rockler was the rounded edges. I would have never done that on my shop made table. I'll still have to rout the back side of the table to flush fit my horizontal router fixture. At first, I was going to cut a slot as shown in the original drawing, but after thinking about it I really don't see the need for it. I'll never bury the bit in the table. I can do all the milling from the top surface.


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## n6vc (Oct 11, 2012)

I got the Rockler screws today. They're pretty much what I expected, so I'm going to use the 8-32 machine screws and nuts.


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

n6vc said:


> Hi Brett,
> Rockler uses the friction fit of the screw in the MDF which their tech support claims to be OK. They said they have never received a complaint from anyone. I can't say one way or the other, yet, but I would expect over time the screws might back off. I considered using Tee Nuts or inserts, but decided the screws with two nuts would work OK and I wouldn't have to make any modifications. Using Tee Nuts or inserts, the holes would need to be modified.
> Using the method presented in your drawing, I would have to modify the router plate and the router table. Thanks for the suggestion, however.
> One of the good things I gained from buying the router table from Rockler was the rounded edges. I would have never done that on my shop made table. I'll still have to rout the back side of the table to flush fit my horizontal router fixture. At first, I was going to cut a slot as shown in the original drawing, but after thinking about it I really don't see the need for it. I'll never bury the bit in the table. I can do all the milling from the top surface.


Good point and after building this r-lift I realized dou le-nuts or self-locks wod suffice as well, albeit I don't mind more complex setups, haha.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

brett, i would also worry about the bolts backing out over time. for that, a locknut would be the ticket

but i would worry even more that the t-nuts will get pushed out because they are on the wrong side of the stress. you really should put them on the top (countersunk with a forstener bit if necessary) so that they will be supported.


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> brett, i would also worry about the bolts backing out over time. for that, a locknut would be the ticket
> 
> but i would worry even more that the t-nuts will get pushed out because they are on the wrong side of the stress. you really should put them on the top (countersunk with a forstener bit if necessary) so that they will be supported.


Thank you for the tip, good idea sir, may still just double the nuts or self lock nut it.


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## n6vc (Oct 11, 2012)

I discovered a couple more faults with the router table insert. Not significant, but are manufacturing flaws.
1. Threads on the guide post are too long. The threaded part of the post sticks below the insert and bottoms on the router base, before the post bottoms on the insert.
2. Countersinks for my router screws are too shallow. I'll have to make the countersinks deeper to allow screw heads to get below the insert top. They are about 3/64ths above right now on two of them. The third one is about 1/64" proud.
Easy to fix, but shouldn't have to.
I am still happy with the purchase and would do it again at the sale price. I don't plan on complaining to Rockler because the flaws are easily corrected.


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