# Dovetail problems



## ambrose kennedy (Jul 10, 2008)

I am a self –taught woodworker and am still getting to grips with using a router . I have a cheap ¼” collet router which is perfectly adequate for rounding over,cutting grooves and creating various profiles but I am unable to cut dovetails with it. I bought a dovetail template which is supposed to work without the need for a bushing being fitted to the router. It came with two router bits both fitted with bearings on the shaft of the bit above the cutter edges. The theory being that the bearing rides on the templet while the cutter creates the dovetail on the workpiece clamped immediately beneath the templet. 
What actually happens is (1)the the bearing comes loose halfway through the second dovetail and (2)the bit works its way out of the collet. The router is used at its lowest speed to allow for the radius of the cutting bit. 
These problems may be attributable to the badly engineered sleeve holding the bearing on the bit and the inferior quality (or need for a ½” collet instead of ¼”) of the router holding the bit. I have not ruled out my own “ham-fistedness” (a bad workman blames his tools).. I am aware the the sleeve can be tightened with a very small allen key(not supplied) Can any one offer advice?


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I would hope that your post be deleted, and you try it again, just because of the title alone.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Welcome to the forums. There are a couple of suggestions that will help in this situation. First, run your dovetail bits at your top speed or close to it. You will have to locate an Allen wrench that fits the sleeve lock for the bearing. Remove the set screw and apply a thread locking compound to it, when you tighten it there should be no more problem. As far as the bit coming out of the collet there are a couple of possibilities: the bit must be inserted fully into the collet and then pulled back about 1/8". When tightened in this position it should not move. If there is any rust on the inside of the collet or on the bit slippage can occur so they should be replaced. Make sure the shaft lock is engaged or use two wrenches so you are sure the bit is secure in the collet.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI ambrose 

I use this type of bit all the time, here's a small tip that I use on them.

The little set screws don't stay in the lock ring,you only have about one to two threads holding them in place and they strip very easy,,,if you take a good center punch and Stake the shank just under the lock coller,this will keep it in place if the set screw will not hold it....you will need to hit it hard right under the coller so you can see a small dent/hole in the shank...

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ambrose kennedy said:


> I am a self –taught woodworker and am still getting to grips with using a router . I have a cheap ¼” collet router which is perfectly adequate for rounding over,cutting grooves and creating various profiles but I am unable to cut dovetails with it. I bought a dovetail template which is supposed to work without the need for a bushing being fitted to the router. It came with two router bits both fitted with bearings on the shaft of the bit above the cutter edges. The theory being that the bearing rides on the templet while the cutter creates the dovetail on the workpiece clamped immediately beneath the templet.
> What actually happens is (1)the the bearing comes loose halfway through the second dovetail and (2)the bit works its way out of the collet. The router is used at its lowest speed to allow for the radius of the cutting bit.
> These problems may be attributable to the badly engineered sleeve holding the bearing on the bit and the inferior quality (or need for a ½” collet instead of ¼”) of the router holding the bit. I have not ruled out my own “ham-fistedness” (a bad workman blames his tools).. I am aware the the sleeve can be tightened with a very small allen key(not supplied) Can any one offer advice?


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the Router Forums Ambrose.


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

Welcome!


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