# Setting Up a Small Wood Shop?? Advice Needed?



## WoodHaven (May 10, 2010)

Hi All: I am planning on setting up a small woodworking shop in a 12' x 24' shed that I am going to purchase. The shed will be placed in the back of my house and will be free standing. Anyway, what I'd like some advice on from anyone is what machinery to purchase & how to set up said machinery within the alloted rectangular space? I will have eclectrical run after the shed is in place. I am planning on at least 6 outlets with perhaps one of the outlets being 220. Here is a list of the basic equipment that I feel is necessary:

1. Good Table Saw (Delta or Powermatic)
2. Band Saw
3. Drill Press
4. Scroll Saw
6. Sanding Planner
7. Router Table
8. Small wood planner (not stationary type)

Obviously, all of the tools, etc.. are too numerous to list but will include sanders, wood clamps, various glues, etc.........

Question: How would set up & locate the various pieces of machinery? Most of which will be on wheels so that I can move them around if needed. 
I will also only be doing small projects & nothing bigger than perhaps a computer center, end tables, etc....

Thanks for any input,

Steve


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

I would take a look at a ShopSmith.
Of course, I'm a little biased, having owned and use one for 30 years. You can get nearly all your requirements in one machine.
Not sure what you mean by a sanding planer. You might check out Stockroom supply's "V Sander" for a smaller footprint than a true drum sander.
BTW, you will need a bench, too.


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## 3efingers (Dec 21, 2006)

Hi Steve, there are a lot of opinions, books and such as to how to set up a shop, wheels on everything is a real good idea, believe me a shop will get real crowded real fast no matter what size it is,espically if you are a tool junkie. You can use old fashion paper and pencil or download google sketchup (free) and arrange it to your liking and then see if it works for you and as you go you will tweak it until it fits you.

I've had a delta table saw for 13 years and enjoy it, more so after I put a good fence on it, I research which tool I need and do not stick with any single brand and always buy the extended warranty.


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## dermer2002 (May 29, 2010)

Hi Steve,

Wow, your post brings up lots of memories and ideas. A Shopsmith multi-tool that my Dad owned was the first power tool I ever used. They are terrific at saving space. But, when I became a cabinet maker, separate tools were better suited to production speed, capacity, and work flow. You don't state your skill or experience level, so I can't say what is appropriate for you. You'll have to make up your mind on that. 

A good, solid work bench with a good vise or two is a must. Anything you can put wheels on helps, as is the ability to have multi-purpose stations. Your router table can be the side extension of your table saw. Your bench can serve as an outfeed table for multiple machines. You'll definitely need shelving for hand tools, fasteners, hardware, etc. Some of that can be under tool stations. 

I have also found that a covered outdoor space for finishing helps in warmer months. You can keep making sawdust while pieces dry. Doesn't need to be too big and can be enclosed temporarily with sheet plastic to keep the gnats out.

If you visit sites like finewoodworking.com, woodworkersjournal.com, rockler.com, you can find lots of books and videos on small shop layout. 

Congratulations on having a dedicated building for woodworking. Sure beats working in the garage or basement.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

I hope it's a wooden shed you're installing/building (not metal). I hope you will have a good lock on the door.


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## WoodHaven (May 10, 2010)

Thanks for all of those excellent comments & suggestions! I would consider myself a moderately advanced woodworker that has not done much in quite some time. I am presently making a Jewelry box for my granddaughter's 16th birthday working with a fellow in the next town over who has a wood shop. The shed will be made of wood not metal & will have double doors that can be locked when not in use. Anyway, as I have found out, there are lots of good info out there & I will continue to search around. This will not be an easy task but will hopefully be well worth the research & time. Thanks again,

Steve


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

As strange as this may sound, insulate that shed first thing. Sometimes, these "sheds" aren't, they're just a quick build type of thing. 

For your equipment, the shopsmith is a nice "tool" but, having the right tool for the right job is important. Each has it's own design. Not against a shopsmith at all. IMHO, a TS should be the center point in any shop, work in a circle, everything right together yet, not interfering with one another. Also, any chance to purchase a piece of machinery that can or is wired to go either 110v and 220v, get it. When time and money allows, rewire it for the 220v. You won't regret that. IMHO, any equipment that is 220v just runs smoother.


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## WoodHaven (May 10, 2010)

Hi Ken: I totally agree with you about both the insullation & the 220v hookup which would be especially useful on a nice Bandsaw! There's just so much to think about that it's overwhelming at times! That's why I am asking questions & researching this now rather than waiting until I order the shed.... Makes sense to me.........Thanks again,

Steve


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I had a 12'x18' shed set up as a workshop years ago here in Alaska. Since it was made from 2x4's, I installed R-11 fiberglass insulation after I had an electrician drop a 60A sub-panel inside. Even at -20F four 1500 watt heaters would warm the air in 10 minutes and the tools in 30. Then I'd turn 3 heaters to "fan only" and one to low heat and let the thermostat take care of keeping it ward. The insulation made all the difference!

My recommendation is to put drawers and cabinets every place you can, including under the extension on the table saw. I'm now in a 2-car garage and everything I build still has wheels and I'm planning on building a cabinet to go under the extension table on my Unisaw.

BobJ3 says "You can't have too many routers". In a small shop "You can't have too much storage!" I have a floor standing drill press but have build a chest of drawers to go under it (un wheels). I set the height to let me use short bits and thin stock without moving the cabinet but when I need to use a long bit or drill thick stock, I roll out the cabinet. I get 24"x24"x32" (three 5" drawers and one 15" drawer) of extra storage this way.


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## 3efingers (Dec 21, 2006)

RJM60, you commented that you hoped he was building one of wood and not of metal. I have a wooden shop and 3 years ago I had a lighting stike, I was not in it at the time (good thing) but it prompted me to do more research and I found out that a wooden shop is one of the most dangerous places to be in with lighting in the area, it was equated to be inside a big bug zapper with me being the bug but I've been called worse and now when I hear thunder I go in the house, but I do agree with the lock on the door.


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## anotherBob (Oct 28, 2009)

Steve, It's funny... I sure have read quite a few folks are getting into/back into woodworking recently. Maybe the economy... who knows, but there does seem to be a resurgence in general. Anyway... like someone has already commented, your tools will dictate what it is that you'll spend most of your time doing. Once you have the list, I would get out a big sheet of paper, scale the outline of your inside parameters, then make a bunch of scaled size-wise mockups (just colored blocks/rectangles) of your tools. Move them around to where it seems to make sense best... then you'll know where everything will belong once you start lugging the for real iron in. ...Until you change your mind... but, it's a start...


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## WoodHaven (May 10, 2010)

Thanks Bob & I was thinking about storage in that regard. You are correct that there can never be enough storage, especially in a small space!

Next question: I have been doing some research on Dust Collection (DC) systems & there seems to be a lot of controversy about which to use & what functions best at removing the fine particles from the shops air. Does anyone have any suggestions on this? I am at a loss to really understand what they are talking about when it comes to sawdust removal, air flow, etc.....

Steve


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

For shop layout you can always check into this Grizzly.com® -- Workshop Planner

And for some real good info on DC I have found that this site to be of great help
and a wealth of info
Bill's Cyclone Dust Collection Research - Home Page
good luck and show us photo of your setup when you get it done,,,


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

As the owner of a 12x12 shed that has to double as a storage venue, I say look for hidden opportunities to maximize space. Remember to think in three dimensions - use your walls as an asset.


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## anotherBob (Oct 28, 2009)

Another thing... bench location... you will thank yourself for placing your bench around a window. Nothing like a nice natural raking light source flooding your bench area. What Cocheseuga said about thinking in 3D... the rafters can hold wood, pull down cubbies, all kinds of usefull nooks and crannies... just insulate the roof and allow acces to all of the area beneath it.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

I'll make an additional suggestion here, check into "lightening rods". There are other "attractions" for lightening other than just your shop. However, to protect yourself, house, shop, etc., invest into these. They aren't too expensive, in fact I think they're relatively cheap now days. As for anything else, there used to be a thread called "dream shop" or something to that effect on the forums. Not sure if it's still around or not. 

Here's the link: http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/109-dream-shop.html?highlight=dream+shop


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

3efingers said:


> RJM60, you commented that you hoped he was building one of wood and not of metal. I have a wooden shop and 3 years ago I had a lighting stike, I was not in it at the time (good thing) but it prompted me to do more research and I found out that a wooden shop is one of the most dangerous places to be in with lighting in the area, it was equated to be inside a big bug zapper with me being the bug but I've been called worse and now when I hear thunder I go in the house, but I do agree with the lock on the door.


 
Wasn't thinking of lightning but the vibrations machine tools would make in a sheetmetal shed. If lightning is an issue, lightning rods should be installed whether wood, or metal.


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## WoodHaven (May 10, 2010)

Thanks! Great info about that Lightening rod which I never would have thought about..... 

Steve


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Great responses to the new workshop! ........ I see you are in CT but for Georgia I would recomend a window AC and a location that provides shade during the hours you are more likely to use your shed. Being from CT the opposite may apply with a good heater and sunshine during shop hours.

Depending on what you build an air compresser and the needed air tools may come in handy.

Good luck on your shop and enjoy the space!

BTW I almost forgot the most used tool in the shop................ Coffee Pot!!! lol


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Most of the time when they wire up the metal shop it's grounded by default..

You don't want to stick a rod on the roof asking Lightening to make a strike on your little shop . 
===


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Marco said:


> BTW I almost forgot the most used tool in the shop................ Coffee Pot!!! lol


 
You mean cooler ... don't you


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

I'm pretty sure that the thin gauge of metal used in a metal shed is not sufficient to conduct lightning to the ground. The lightning might just melt thru the roof and hit whoever is standing under it. Also, just sitting on the ground is not a sufficient grounding element. You need a lightning ground rod which needs to be sized (length and diameter) to provide a specified minimum resistance to the ground.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

bobj3 said:


> Most of the time when they wire up the metal shop it's grounded by default..
> 
> You don't want to stick a rod on the roof asking Lightening to make a strike on your little shop .
> ===


The newer style of lightening rods are designed to, yes, attract lightening however, this protects your entire electrical system in your shop, home, etc. Lightening strikes a metal surface, the pathway it takes, can't be predicted. Just having a "metal shop" grounded doesn't suffice. Having the rods grounded gives that lightening only 1 path to go. Electricity can be strange when it comes to path traveling. This protects your circuits and equipment from "shorts" or burnouts. I've even seen main electrical panels become "fried" from a lightening strike just from only the building being grounded. Check with your local electricians, they'll give you the proper information.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

If the power for the new shop comes off the house and a new breaker panel is put in place it will have a 5/8" x 3ft. ground rod in place just for that type of job,,

====


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## 3efingers (Dec 21, 2006)

When lighting hit my wooden shop 3 years ago it came down thru the limbs of a 30 foot oak tree, did not touch the tree but did burn the leaves and did a 90 deg. turn and hit my shop on the side, burned a hole half the diamiter of a pencil and fried the wires in the shop blew lights down, took out a fan, went thru the wires into the house and took out the phone, computer, alarm system, 1 tv and vcr. y daughter got home just after it happpened and thats when we found out the life span of a smoke detector was about 10 years, outs were 9 1/2 years old and didn't utter a sound and the house was full of smoke and the total damage was just 50 bucks over the deductable but on the up side no one was hurt and house and shop did not burn to the ground.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

They claim that's what that 3' rod is for but, it's mainly to ground the breaker panel and provide a "ground" for any electrical "appliances" being fed from that panel. Protection from shorts and burnouts. The newer "lightning rods" are placed any where on the upper sides and roof lines of your building(s) however, they're grounded opposite of your electrical panel and it's "ground", to provide the protection needed that Tom experienced. Again, check with your local electrician. I know in larger cities, they are required by code to placed on the sides and on top of high-rise buildings.


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## dermer2002 (May 29, 2010)

There is one thing I haven't seen discussed in this thread. what is the design of your shed? You can get lots of extra overhead storage by building a gambrel type roof (like a barn) for not much extra money. I think you can get gambrel shed trusses at Home Depot that start at the middle of the floor, include the stud and end at the peak. Makes it pretty easy.

Max


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## WoodHaven (May 10, 2010)

Hi Max: Very good suggestion & something that I have indeed been looking into & considering. As noted, you can't have too much storage space in these smaller sheds & need to find it anywhere you can! 

Steve


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## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Hi Steve,
I too like you have a small 12x24 shop space, which in the summer months is my shop and in the winter is my garage.

One bit of advice, don't forget ample bench/table work areas for assmembly and just to put things like tools, workpieces, schematics. Like you, this year I'm going all out in assmbling my shop and from the past couple of years of struggling and juggling without a spot just to put things I made sure to have some tables to put stuff.

Good luck there!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

3-4 years ago I built an add-on shed to my separate from the house garage. 12x10'. A bomb proof footer, 4 course block and then just framed up from there. When I went to add a work bench I found that the bench itself (the size I wanted) ended up taking up too much space. Even if I pushed it up against one of the walls. 
Since this wasn't intended to be a woodshop, a rock solid bench wasn't required. What I ended up doing was taking a standard hollow core door (36" x 80"), several hinges and some framing for around the edges and mount the door horizontally to one of the long walls. Added a couple of chains to each side to allow the benchtop to fold down when needed. This has worked out surprisingly well. When I don't need it, I can easily fold it up and out of the way. 
While the idea certainly isn't original nor exceedingly clever, it has proven to be most useful. This type of application could work well for any number of shop applications. 
Interestingly enough, a few weeks ago, I went in to do a little housekeeping and wiped down the top of the bench. When originally built, I just slopped on a very VERY heavy coat of poly. It turned out exceptionally nice *L* go figure!!! So I went about and wiped off the table and the finish is almost as good today as when it was first applied. 4 years worth of chainsaws, blowers, carbs and whatever (it has been abused!!) its held up well. 
Granted I can not beat on it, or do any kind of serious hammering on it but on the other hand, it can easily be covered to withstand considerable pounding by adding a couple of sturdy fold away drop down legs and a 1/2" mdf top.


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## jjciesla (Oct 20, 2007)

For several years I lived in a condo and my shop was a 9 1/2' x 13' glass walled patio. It forced me to get very creative with storage and layout. I measured equipment footprints in square inches, not square feet. On the right side of the floor plan below were sliding doors behind which were the washer & drier and hot water tank. I had some wire shelving in there for shop stuff. Most everything was on wheels. The band saw had to be moved in order to use the lathe. The floor mount drill press column came through a cut-out in the bench. As dust was a major problem for the lining areas of the condo I invested in a smaller dust collector. This made a big difference in the whole condo. I did a custom upgrade to the bag for 1 micron collection. As you can see there is no table saw. Even the small ones eat up a lot of floor space, not to mention out-feeds and wings. So I invested in a track saw rail system for sheet goods & cross-cutting. (Eurekazone | Eurekazone) I have a 3-car garage shop now and shill have no intentions of getting a table saw. Spend some *hours *planning & thinking about everything from the floor up. That's the key to the whole thing. Light the place like daylight. A couple extra bucks there will make a major difference. I went with T-8 daylight florescent lamps. Do the floor plan layouts as suggested for your first cut. If you need to move (roll) machines around, think "from here to where" and how in order to use them. That's it for now. Hope this helps.


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## WoodHaven (May 10, 2010)

Hi Jim: Very nice set up in such a small space, so there is hope for me yet!! Thanks everyone for all of the other very good suggestions. Hopefully, I will be getting the ball rolling in the near future & at least I am not working in the dark, so to speak........

Steve


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## jjciesla (Oct 20, 2007)

Steve, When you think about (plan) the number of electrical outlets and you reside on x number of outlets, do the following. Make it 2x. It's much better to not use all of them than not have one when needed down the road. And use the 4" x 4" boxes. They're much, much easier to install and they give you another spot so as to double up in a box. An for every circuit you put in, make the first outlet a GFIC.
Jim


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## xvimbi (Sep 29, 2009)

Planning shops for others - that's fun! Regarding basic infrastructure, as said, a good electrical system is important as is dust collection, and you have that planned. Another such thing is compressed air. You can run lines just like DC lines throughout the shop to various places for hooking up air tools. Dust collectors and air compressors can be placed outside the shed in small enclosed compartments. Cuts down on the noise too.

Also consider:

- Some sort of division for finishing. That could be a small area that can be divided off with a plastic curtain. Keep all the finishes in a separate area; best would be a metal chemical-storage unit (check the surplus department at your local university; they usually have regular auctions).

- Regarding shop layout, think about how wood gets processed in your shop. The tool that any wood sees first should be close to the entrance. That would probably be the table saw. Close by would be the jointer (not on your list) and then the planer (or the other way around).

- There are some great bench designs that incorporate multiple tools through modular design. Check out the Ultimate Tool Stand (Ultimate Tool Stand). That might give you some nice ideas. You can easily make modular stations for a planer, drill press, a miter saw (not on your list), sharpening tools, sanding table, etc. with all the goodies, such as fences and stops, etc.

- Make all movable tables compatible with each other, i.e., have them at the same height, so that they can double up as infeed/outfeed tables.

Do you have an area outside the shed, such as a driveway, that you could use for work too, weather-permitting? That can come in handy.

That's all I have for now.

Have fun! MM


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## WoodHaven (May 10, 2010)

Thanks Jim & MM! Great feedback & suggestions that will have to be taken into consideration for sure. :yes4:

Steve


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## chowbird (Jun 29, 2010)

I'm in my 12 X 27 garage so It's very similar. If you gonna rip sheet goods on your table saw then it's gotta be able to be moved or located in the middle - think about infeed and outfeed support. If it'll have a slab floor - think about rubber mats or real comfy soft footwear to keep your back from aching. Standalone - look for heaters on ebay or craigslist or Kijiji if you're in Canada. My table saw has a router table extension - wooks great.


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## bowdavis (Jan 17, 2010)

There isn't room enough in my small shop for a vacuum system, but not much need, either. My bigger dust-making tools are on wheels. I just open the double doors, wisk them outside on my covered concrete pad, and saw/sand/rout/plane away like crazy. Cleanup with a broom and blower takes 3 minutes. Inside is mostly for assembly and finishing.


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## Cyclone (Nov 24, 2009)

*Shop Layout*

Steve: 
Take a look at this site for a shop layout and I would suggest you double the number of outlets from 6 to 12.

Google "Dempsey Woodworking" and click on "Workshop" on the upper right hand side.

Lotsa luck

frank - fonthill, ontario


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## saviman (Aug 19, 2010)

ok im new here so here goes. im wanting to sell a 10" shop smith radial arm saw, an american drill press 5sp 1/2hp 1/2"chuck, 10" delta table saw 34-670, cal hawk 14" band saw, 6" 3knif davis wells plainer, and a sears 1 1/2hp router with jigs and about bearing roller router bits. all is in working condition and letting all go for 1000.00. do you think my price is to high.


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## ctsooner (Jan 16, 2010)

depends on condition of it all and what extras go with it. Many of us who are starting from scratch are going with a sawstop table saw to start and filling in from there as safety comes first. I'm so glad that I waited and saved for the sawstop and then I bought someones shop from them and took what I wanted and am selling off the stuff I don't want. Again, it is worth it if someone is willing to give you that for it. Go online to other sites and see what each machine is selling for and then figure it all out. Good luck with it. 

Steve in Killingworth, if you are still online here, shoot me an email. I wonder if we've taken any classes together with Bob Van **** who teaches at Ct Valley School of Woodworking. I've met so many great guys and gals over there and all are so helpful.


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## lhocking (Oct 23, 2009)

I have jsut been issued my building permit for a 12x26 workshop, so a few items from that project. The comments about 220v are right on - run everything you can on 220 - the performance boost is amazing. I own a 15" 1 hp drill press but the wood shop will be equiped with a bench top model mounted in the revolving workstation found in The Complete Small Shop. All the tools in the garage are mounted on a hook and slat system that is a wooden version of the expensive garage mounting systems sold in the large box stores - that is great concept and the wood system is afforable. I will be using that concept to mount all the wall hanging items in the new shop - the ease and flexability of moving things can not be beat - check out American Woodworker Nov 2006 for details. Think of it as wheels for your hanging items. One last thought, I would add a 220v dust collector - the floor space is worth the comfort and cleanup avoided - in a small shop, you can not avoid dust, so collect it before you breathe it.


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## delcolli (Sep 11, 2004)

I have A small shop and have all my machines on wheels (castors) If I knew how, I would send a picture of the unit I built for my mitre saw and thickness planer.

Del


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Hey guys (Don, Frank, Phil, Larry, and Del) Welcome to the RouterForums. Glad to have you as members of our community.


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## tsatte (Mar 7, 2009)

I am surprised no one asked what the shop was to be used for. Hard to know what to buy unless you know the type of woodworking.

Tom


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## dustywoodworker (Feb 4, 2007)

*Setting up a small workshop*

Steve, you are just like many of us who have limited space to allocate to a shop. My shop is about the same as yours and I find that I have adequate space almost all of the time. I have a table saw, a drill press, a horizontal boring machine, a lathe, a jointer, a band saw and a disk sander. Along with these a have a scroll saw, and a belt sander. I have a full function workshop that is also equipped with a 24' workbench and aa assembly table.

This is all made possible in this small space by the Shopsmith Mark V that I have as the center piece.

I hope you will give serious consideration to Shopsmith before you buy anything else. I have been working in this space for nearly twenty years and I am very satisfied. Most of my equipment is that old as well and it is all going strong. I believe this speaks well for the quality of these machines.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Steve:



WoodHaven said:


> Hi All: I am planning on setting up a small woodworking shop in a 12' x 24' shed...




Ok, last year I was in a similar situation to yourself. So I built a 16'x20' shop "on wheels." 

I am reconditioning a 40 year old, badly treated, house. It needs a lot of work, some of which needs to be done in the workshop. My tools are all designed into 2'x4' modules, 36" high on casters. Now, the more space you have, the more you'll fill up. The trick is to get half way between what you think you want and what you actually need.

I roll out a cabinet, setup and use the tool, clean up, and roll the tool back into its position on the wall. Out with the next one etc. and so on. I'd be perfectly happy if everything I was doing was 6" x 12". However, right now I'm working on two posts to support the carrying beams for the trusses in the car port. They're 7' & 8' long and full of joints. I have my torsion table setup to do the routing but to do the sizing, I have to dismantle the torsion table, move the parts and dig out the desired tool. I figure my biggest headache will come when I start work on the kitchen. 

I think you'll find the 12' too narrow. 16' is not bad. Figure you'll have tools stacked around the walls of the shop, fasteners etc. on the walls parts somewhat organized and then you've got to make room for your projects. My determining factor was "can I turn around a 4'x8' sheet of plywood?" I need 9' for the sheet, plus 4' to clear the tools on the wall plus hiccup room and I can barely fit into 16'. The 24' works nicely though. When it is well insulated, that length is not difficult to heat. I would suggest a small wood stove (if it is allowed) and learn how to burn sawdust.

Figure that you're going to want to cut a piece of plywood on your table saw. Calculate the space you got less the table saw less the overhang of the plywood plus the infeed and outfeed tables; and, you'll still want to be able to have other tools inside the shop. Nothing more disconcerting than having to move tools outside to be able to cut a board. My last shop was 12 x 24 and I had to go outside to change my mind. It was also not insulated. That's where I learned to store all my iron tools in Tupperware with a bit of silica gel.

One more thing, ceiling height can make quite a difference. My old shop had a 6'6" ceiling. It was a garage with a bit of an "attic." It was neat to be able to reach up and hang something from the ceiling but when it came to turning around a piece of plywood or cutting a finger joint on a 36" long drawer face, different story. Now I have a luxurious 8' ceiling height, nicely insulated and track lights - oh wow and hanging fluorescent lights just like in the movies.

Hope this helps.


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## reikimaster (Sep 29, 2005)

I have a 16x18 shop. Not ideal if you have to cut up 4x8 sheets of plywood. So I designed it with French doors. I can open both sides of the door to run sheet goods through my table saw. Ideal? No, but for what I do I really don't carve up sheets very often. And I'm also getting a lot better at using an edge guide and cutting sheets while they are flat on the table.  

I had at one time entertained the thought of just getting rid of the table saw and using guides all the time. Then I had to rip a 10 foot 2x4 in half and realized I'd have to really do some planning to get where I could do that without my table saw. 

So I still have the table saw. It's on a mobile base. For some stuff it just seems like the easiest and most practical way to get the job done.


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## OWilliam (Dec 31, 2009)

*A Couple Versitile Tools*

If I were to do it all over again I would start with a good 16" bandsaw, a well made router table, two good routers, and many and various size of clamps as I could afford. Bandsaws are safer, quieter, more forgiving and more versitle than tablesaws, though throat depth can limit crosscuts. Routers can be used in amazing ways, including jointing wood if you have a good table, and shallow drilling (shelf pins, etc.) A solid core door on a base made with 2x4's coupled with a variety of clamps makes a great inexpensive work bench. A vise is a nice to have but I mostly use mine to keep other jigs in place. I might even consider a variety of really good hand tools.


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## rgreenman (Sep 5, 2010)

Putting wheels on everything is the best idea. I did that and it's a life saver. It makes keeping your shop clean easier too. But sometimes you just need the room and with wheels it's a snap.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Have a 12 x24 wood shed for a shop and it is crowded. All tools on wheels. Get double locking casters for the front wheels, when locked they won't swivel. Use fixed casters on the back-the tool will be steadier.

I just went through replacing my Delta contractor table saw and looked at and compared everything out there from Deltas to Powermatic. Did months of comparison and finally settled on, bought and really love my new Laguna Fusion 10 inch, 36 inch capacity table saw with the 110v 1.75 hp motor. Exquisite fit and finish, needed only minor tuning. Have a 60 amp sub panel outside that feeds into the shed via 3 flexable cables in flex plastic conduit. Didn't really want to rewire for 220 but that is an option for this saw. The 52 inch capacity requires 84 inches of space, which I didn't have, but would have gotten if I'd had the space.

I really liked the Powermatic, but it was about the price of a divorce, so I went back and did more research. Saw Stop is high end pricing, but one thing they don't like to talk about is if you cut wood with any substantial amount of moisture, you must shut off the safety device. If you forget (guaranteed in my case) the sawstop cartridge will fire. Bam, and you get to replace the cartridge (70 bucks) and the blade (50-80 bucks). If you use a dado stack, you will need to switch out the cartridge (90 bucks). 

The Laguna comes with a riving knife and an alternative blade guard, but I have used the GrrRipper for a couple of years and take my sweet time on every cut to make sure I'm doing it safely, so the safety element of the SawStop just didn't offset the much higher cost, at least for me.

The Laguna is a bit more expensive than the Grizzley, the Delta isn't what it used to be, and there are other saws that are cheaper, but after physically comparing other brands, the Laguna just quietly sold itself. Smooth, precise, and even comes in a wooden crate with the long parts in a long double cardboard box padded with foam. 

The fence was right on out of the crate and the blade was in perfect alignment with the miter slot. Very little setup and two guys will be able to move and set it up in an hour or two. The power is fine for hard woods, and I noticed it has a belt drive so you can cut almost an inch more thickness than with a direct drive saw. 

The Laguna fence is very precise. I took a little extra time to make sure the zero mark on the rule the fence references is exactly lined up to the cutting edge of the blade. Locks solid and is very easy to align.

For me, the table saw is the center of almost everything I do so getting either a cabinet or fusion type with the mechanism mounted to the cabinet instead of the top (contractor style) is well worth paying a bit more. If I had 220, I'd give the Powermatic the nod. Some people have complained about Laguna service, but they said they'd cleaned up their act, and they were extremely helpful with information and setting up delivery--I live not so far away and one of their employees dropped it off personally at a local Rockler on his way to a medical appointment. They followed up very well. 

Dump the blade they provide, its a dog.

About the shop. Insulate, insulate, insulate. I made the mistake of not doing that before I filled it with tools and it was much harder to do after. Dust collection is a must. I'm a throat cancer survivor and believe me, you don't want to fill your lungs with that toxic stuff. If I were starting from scratch, I'd pop for a commercial unit with the most suction I could manage at 110 volts. There is a lot on dust collection on the site.

If you're having electrical put in, consider having a 220 line or two put in. You can buy decent used saws with 220 for not too much money, although I don't have enough skill to rebuild anything that's worn or broken, so I prefer new--more money than time.

Most of one long wall of the shop has 5 4x8 panels of pegboard as well as a set of 4' wide shelves. Everything rolls around or sits a foot off the floor (shelves, cabinets) for easy cleanout.

I store everything possible in plastic containers with locking tops. I bought all of them at once in matching colors so they look organized. I have some small boxes, shallow boxes and deep boxes. I write the content in black letters on one edge so I instantly know where things are. Looks neat, keeps wandering sawdust out, protects bits and blades, keeps moisture from condensing when its cold.

I live in the high desert so cooling and heating are important. So I have 3 20 amp circuits. One for the tool in use, another for dust collection and the third carries the lighting and a heather or AC unit. With insulation, a window mounted air conditioner keeps temps in the mid 70s even if its 100 plus outside. Insulation is the key.

One more little item, casters for bases with angled legs. Woodriver has a terrific retracting caster set that clicks down to roll, up to set the base solid on floor. Perfect for my band saw and about $50. Beats my shop made solution and takes up far less space. For my small shop, I realized that most of the commercial tool stands with flared legs ate a LOT of floor space and made it hard to move things around for cleanup. So I've made my own stands, mostly as closed cabinets with shelves and doors. 2 fixed casters on the rear, two double locking swivel casters on the front. Picked up a surprising amount of floor space and moving stands around is much easier.

Interesting comment about the lightening. I have a power pole right next to my shop with a lightening rod on it, but after reading that, I think I'd find a way to put a lightening rod near (but not on) the shop. We do get some nasty thunderstorms on occasion, but I'm not inclined to be in the shop then because I'd have to tromp through lots of wet sand to get there. Haven't wintered over since insulating, so I hope a heater will keep out the 20 degree cold outside. 

This is longer than I intended, but I wanted to answer your questions thoroughly. Tom


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## bowdavis (Jan 17, 2010)

I didn't see anything in your note or in the replies about sawdust. Most of those in my woodworking club (Woodworkers of Central Ohio) have dust collecting systems in their shops--some as simple as moving a good portable shop vac from tool to tool and some involve major equipment and piping. 

I have a 24 x 20 dedicated woodshop--an attached garage I claimed after building another 2-car garage for the cars. Everything is on wheels and if I'm going to make a lot of saw dust, I open the double doors and wheel the big dust-makers outside onto a tree-shaded concrete pad. Or if it is raining, I can move the patio furniture and set up under a roofed patio. I find that even in the winter there are plenty of days I can rout, saw, plane, etc. outdoors and them move the project into the shop for less dusty tasks.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Don; I sure envy you on the roll-around aspect. The building code up here, North of 49, requires a slope on the garage floor (to the main door). you can put things on wheels but after adjusting for the slope you're limited to _only_ rolling in the direction the wheels correct for. I know I've mentioned this in the past, but I'm always surprised that there's jurisdictions that don't mandate a slope on the concrete.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

FYI: I knew the reason for the slope on garage floors had something to do with fire regulations but I'd lost track of the reasons...
Sintra Engineering | Western Canada's Forensic Engineering Experts
"Garage Floors. Inconsistencies were resolved in the requirement that garage floors be sloped to the exterior to limit heavier-than-air gas inflow into habitable spaces below the garage floor level."

So, following from that, not sure exactly why they insist on freestanding garages have the slope(?) It's great for hosing out your garage, mind you!


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Dan-
I remember you mentioning garage floor slope before. When you did, I was struggling with my slope.

My assumption previously was that usually a garage or shop has a door leading to a drive... where you occasionally have to allow access of something from one to another, but where the slope would help water drainage from entering that structure? That's what I assumed before you mentioned gases and living structures.

Here, they slope also. I have my equipment leveled (to help with re-configs and tuning), like for my saw... and I have my floor marked where the feet are when I leveled it. With limited space and having to move that 1300 lb. plus beast around to work with odd or larger stock, I have to move it from the wall. Those marks help me get things back in place and back to being leveled. Just what I do to deal with that.

Edit-- LOL. Re-reading that, it sort of sounds like something OCD!!! But that solution is simple and simple works for me.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Not OCD at all, Mike; makes perfect sense. 
Personally, I'm hoping that when I finally get around to finishing the interior of my shop that I'll luck out and find that they screeded the concrete absolutely flat* from side to side (perpendicular to the slope direction); that'd simplify things somewhat

*when pigs fly


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

We have a slight slope to a center drain, and I keep a shim or two on most of the carts. Mike--I don't have marks on the floor, but when I pull out the planer, jointer miter saw, table saw--i'd bet they are always within an inch of where they go to work. I was just noticing that on Saturday. The table saw either stays where it is (crosscutting) or moves out whatever distance I need to rip--but on a line east to west. Band saw gets to tour the shop--it may become my walker in future years. The router table is a bit of a wild card--but with a highly "normal" zone as well. Hand tools are in a wheeled box that I never move--I always walk to it. Often. Have a habit of putting hand tools back, then getting them out again. In a good weekend, hand tools retrieval and putting away probably add 2,000 to 3,000 steps to my pedometer!!

earl


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Yes. I guess I'm no stranger there. My floor slopes from rear to the door. sides to the center. Room to work is actually starting to get better. My tools mostly store against the walls and get pulled out to use. But sometimes I have to really tweak things around to break down sheets.

That sliding table saw is the only thing that I really feel matters to me (level wise). When in "use," it doesn't matter if it is really level as long as everything is proportional to itself... but it has so many accessories that I put on to do a certain things... but take right off just to get around it comfortably, that the setup/reconfig is a lot easier when the saw is level. Then I can double-check the setup.

The back angle table, outrigger table and swingarm, clipon tables, positive-stop miter table, rip stops, crosscut fences, parellel fences, rip fences, hold-downs, etc... Doesn't take long to shift the configs, but if they're off, you soon know it.

Good thing it's portable (mobility kit and a pallet jack).


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

No, "I" have a small shop. I have coped with my 8' X 12' shop since '95/'96. It was what I could afford at the time, and it was get it, or nothing. Good call, because I doubt I would ever have been able to get anything otherwise.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

JOAT said:


> No, "I" have a small shop. I have coped with my 8' X 12' shop since '95/'96. It was what I could afford at the time, and it was get it, or nothing. Good call, because I doubt I would ever have been able to get anything otherwise.


LOL! I'll take that back then. My Shop is tight. Theo's shop is small.

Theo- Remembering that you work almost exclusively with plywood, do you have to break down sheets outside?


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

MAFoElffen said:


> LOL! I'll take that back then. My Shop is tight. Theo's shop is small.
> 
> Theo- Remembering that you work almost exclusively with plywood, do you have to break down sheets outside?


Wish I did. No, with my joints it's usually a major struggle now to even manage a half sheet of plywood anymore, let alone a full sheet. I get around it by getting plywood at Lowes, and having them slice and dice it. I get them to make four 9" cuts from a half sheet, and the leftover is about 11 1/2" or so, and both widths work out about perfect for what I'm am doing just now, do usually get more than a half sheet cut tho, and I have no problems handling those - granted on some days it's only one or two pieces at a time, but at least they get handled. :thank_you2:

However, if I can just get a way to haul full sheets, and have someone load them for me (I can slide them out a little at a time), then I would figure out a little cutting guide to slice and dice them at home. Because 'then' I could get my plywood, and have a better choice too, at the local builder supply - about 2 miles from my house, instead of around 10; save time, money, gas. I'd be squattin' in tall cotten then. 
:dance3:

Boy, I really wish I'd built drawers, LOTS of drawers, rather than just the shelves, when I got that shop. I've got stuff on the floor, on the shelves, on the wall, on the rafters. But shift things around, and it all works out.


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## dustywoodworker (Feb 4, 2007)

But when you became a cabinet maker you were not working in a 12'x24' shop were you.

The Shopsmith mentioned earlier is an ideal woodworking tool for anyone who is hindered by the lack of space. For the home hobbyist, a well equipped shop with a Mark V or Mark 7 as its base can produce just about anything one might want to build.

Yes, I am a Shopsmith owner and I harbor some bias.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

dustywoodworker said:


> But when you became a cabinet maker you were not working in a 12'x24' shop were you.
> 
> The Shopsmith mentioned earlier is an ideal woodworking tool for anyone who is hindered by the lack of space. For the home hobbyist, a well equipped shop with a Mark V or Mark 7 as its base can produce just about anything one might want to build.
> 
> Yes, I am a Shopsmith owner and I harbor some bias.


I harbor some bias on Shopsmith also. I owned one for a while(didn't buy it, it was given to me) I set it up, played with it for a while, and sold it for $50-75, don't remember, don,t care! Also have a couple of friends who each bought one at a show years ago. They both promptly returned them. Think if I had to do all my wood working on one, I'd find a different hobby! Apologies to any one who has and uses one, but I found it neither safe nor accurate.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Dmeadows said:


> I harbor some bias on Shopsmith also. I owned one for a while(didn't buy it, it was given to me) I set it up, played with it for a while, and sold it for $50-75, don't remember, don,t care! Also have a couple of friends who each bought one at a show years ago. They both promptly returned them. Think if I had to do all my wood working on one, I'd find a different hobby! Apologies to any one who has and uses one, but I found it neither safe nor accurate.


If you sold it for that low, you lost out on a good deal more money. 
When I first got my shop, I bought a decent used Shopsmith, with several accessories, can't recall the cost, something over $500 I think. I found it quite safe, at least as safe as any other power too, and quite accurate. It was a minor PITA changing from one function to another, and eventually, I figured out how to put standalone tools in my shop. So, I sold the Shopsmith at a modest profit, and bought standalone tools to replace it. I know of a number of woodworkers with large shops who have Shopsmiths - usually for horizontal boring. Others, use all functions on occassion, even tho they have 'big boys' tools.


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## SteelbyDave (Aug 31, 2017)

Hi Steve, great to hear your latest on the new shop you intend to buy and set up. I am not the lay out guy since I am a welder and enjoy it so much. What I can help you out with is visualization of your space. I have been using a google Cad program to do so this past year and can make anything you need to get a good idea what will work and what won't. I am interested in building furniture as well, should you need steel components for any of your projects. I could do this for you at no charge, just gaining valuable information vicariously, should you be interested.

David 
(604)721-5064


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