# I got a router today



## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

Tomorrow (Nov. 11th) will be the last day of a three day sale at Sears.

I got my first real router today. Had the sale price plus Craftsman Club.

It will take me a while to learn how to handle and set it up.



:sold:


It's still in the box.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Congrats on your new baby! Plunge or fixed base? Safe routing!


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

The tool I was using was a clone of the zip tool which can take 1/4 inrouter bits
from the store as well as those thin spiral ones for cutting drywall and other things. It came with a laminate adapter, edge guide and circle cutter/trammel.

The difference with the Sears one is weight. I have some arthritis now and the weight of the device was noticeable even for a small one.

Surprisingly the design of the Sears was similar to the zip tool:

The collet lock nut with single wrench and release pin is pretty much the same.

The quick release mechanism was stiff and I thought I was doing it wrong but that is working in to where it releases and reattaches gently and firmly.

What I didn't understand initially was how big and fine adjustment work. 
The gross adjustment is made with the release disengaged.

At first I was pushing on buttons and stuff and wondering why I wasn't getting any adjustment.

The tool is for my hobby of speaker building and I got it because the 
small zip tool cannot table mount for pattern making.

I read Bill Hylton on router topics and the books are very good.

But what is the advice here for getting or making a base plate for table installation?

Also there are several circle cutting systems from Jasper and one at Sears
which I know less about. Which is recommended here?

Thanks for the reply.


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

The gurus on this site can tell you the best place to buy 
or
how to build yourself.
I'm in the process of building a table out of he Hylton book.
Top done, frame cut & mortised & tenoned.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi loninappleton

" Also there are several circle cutting systems from Jasper and one at Sears
which I know less about. Which is recommended here?"

I like the Jasper with just a bit of rework and I like the Rockler one Oval AND circle all in one jig... but it comes down to what size circle you are going to make/put in... 

Jasper up to 2 to 18" the Rockler , 6" to 42"  , Rockler jig goes for about 90.oo bucks but they do sale one for 29.oo bucks that's almost the same .
The Jasper goes 25.oo bucks but they also sale other ones also.


http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17282&filter=oval jig
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18089&filter=circle jig
with a easy to make router plate turns it into the same one that go's for 90.oo bucks.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5960&filter=circle jig

http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/c/Jasper/Jasper+Circle+Jigs.html
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_hi?url=search-alias=tools&field-keywords=jasper&x=13&y=22


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loninappleton said:


> The tool I was using was a clone of the zip tool which can take 1/4 inrouter bits
> from the store as well as those thin spiral ones for cutting drywall and other things. It came with a laminate adapter, edge guide and circle cutter/trammel.
> 
> The difference with the Sears one is weight. I have some arthritis now and the weight of the device was noticeable even for a small one.
> ...


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## john heff (Sep 7, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi loninappleton
> 
> " Also there are several circle cutting systems from Jasper and one at Sears
> which I know less about. Which is recommended here?"
> ...


Do you live near a Rockler Retail store? Rockler is reducing the in-store price on their $90 Eclipse/Circle Jig for "Black Friday" (actually Fri - Sun) by $50.... it will sell for $40 for those 3 days....while supply lasts. - John


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks John

For the great tip off 

Makes you think of what they buy them for  or to say what they mark them up to.
But it's great price for a great jig..I almost want to get one for a spare ..or for great Xmax. gift ...

====


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

loninappleton said:


> Also there are several circle cutting systems from Jasper and one at Sears
> which I know less about. Which is recommended here?


Although I own the 200 and 400 series Jasper jigs, having made my own jigs for ~14", ~60", and 12' radiuses they wouldn't be first use of $40-$50 on my shopping list.

It takes 10 minutes to put the mounting holes for your router on a piece of scrap wood, counter sink, and drill a few pivot holes and less than a minute to add new radiuses. Bob's single hole for a guide bushing would be even easier.

Using a 1/8" steel dowel for a pivot pin works well though.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Drew

It's not so much about the circle part of the jig it's the Oval part of the jg that makes it a great deal 


It's a great way to make some Xmax.gifts ( Oval picture frames ,for just one of them ) or small Oval top table,etc. with just a little bit of some glass in the top you have a great table to hold the beer and the pop corn at foot ball time.. 
I made one last year but my Boss took it over for her sewing stuff  when we/I watch the foot ball games 

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Drew Eckhardt said:


> Although I own the 200 and 400 series Jasper jigs, having made my own jigs for ~14", ~60", and 12' radiuses they wouldn't be first use of $40-$50 on my shopping list.
> 
> It takes 10 minutes to put the mounting holes for your router on a piece of scrap wood, counter sink, and drill a few pivot holes and less than a minute to add new radiuses.
> 
> Using a 1/8" steel dowel for a pivot pin works well though.


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

What I was doing with the zip tool was to get a t-nut that fit pretty close to the oin of the circle cutter supplied.

It does leave some jaggies and would wander off the circle. The t-nut would be driven in to just below surface with use of a 3/4 auger bit in a hand drill.

So for more precision, the bronze pin sounds like a good plan with a what? a bronze spacer used an an insert?

Plate glass stores have lexan and plexiglass. I'll see if they have any 
scraps to make my first base and circle jig. The Jasper has a lot of 
measurements, but one is confined to using the precut holes.

A slider or single function setup would work better.

First off I have to get the flathead screws to remount the motor and assembly. Hylton is right: the router always comes with round head screws affixing the base.


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

A follow up on making bases.

I had a prblem at the hardware store getting the right flat head screws for this Sears 1 3/4 hp router.

The guy took my screw, put it into his screw calibrator and sold me a handfull of 12x 24 flat heads to make my new base.

They didn't look to be the right size but while I was in the store I didn't look at them closely enough. I'm not taking the screws back, that is a waste of time cuz I'll have to deal with the same guy again-- a guy who has made bad keys for me and sold me bad cord to restring drape rods. Ugh. I'm just not going back there for anything.

So what's to be done about getting the right screws? All there is is part numbers in the manual-- no description of thread count so I don't know what I have.

Heres the make and model:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917541000P?mv=rr


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI loninappleton

Take the screws back but this time do your own work..
They should be 10-32 x 1/2" Phil.Pan.Head but do pickup some Allen Flat Hd.screws,,,

Take one of the screws with you and this time pull out a 10-32 nut from one the drawers in the store,then you know for sure what size it is,, then move down to the Allen Flat Hd. screws and pull out 3ea. 10-32 x 1/2" and 3ea. 3/4" long ones...it's always nice to have some longer ones.

ACE Hardware is a good place to get what you need..

screw Part number
# 5620049000
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/par...ductGroup=N/A&partNumber=5620049000&pop=flush


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loninappleton said:


> A follow up on making bases.
> 
> I had a prblem at the hardware store getting the right flat head screws for this Sears 1 3/4 hp router.
> 
> ...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The Rockler circle/oval jig is way beyond other circle cutting jigs. The ability to make perfect oval cuts is priceless. There is also a larger center section available which allows you to make bigger ovals than the basic kit. I have both pieces and am pleased with the results.
You can easily make your own circle cutting jig from an oblong piece of plastic, hardboard, plywood, almost anything. Drill a center hole, mount your router centered on this hole, then measure from the center of the hole to the diameter you need and drill a hole for a brad or finnish nail. Remember to pivot counter clockwise around the jig for making an outside cut, clockwise for an interior cut.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just to add a note to Mike's post

The Rockler jig needs to be screwed down when you make Ovals but you don't need to when you use it for circles,,, just make a little jig, 1/2" x 4" x 4" thick plastic/MDF and drill a 5/32 hole in it ( in the center of the jig block) then find a good used drill bit ( 5/32" ) and cut it off short about 1 1/4" long then when you want to cut some circles just drill a small hole in the project board on the back side... the pivot black knob will just slip over the drill bit.

I took a standard 5/32" drill bit and cut it down to 1 1/4" long and left about 1/4" of the normal drill bit end and then put it in the Drill Doctor and got the sharp point back on it ,,, 
Now I can use the drill bit to drill the hole and for a centering pin.. 

If you want to see a snapshot of the add on circle block just ask and I will post one.

Now I don't need to screw the base block to the project...and I just have a very small hole to fill with a wooden dowel if needed.. 

Just one more small note *** you don't need to screw the jig to your router just use a brass guide in the hole on one end of the jig,,, then you can just drop it in the hole and get the job done plus the cord will not wind up on you because the router turns in the jig hole...that's has always been a problem with most circle jigs the cord is always in your way now you can just put it over your shoulder and keep it out of the way..


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Mike said:


> The Rockler circle/oval jig is way beyond other circle cutting jigs. The ability to make perfect oval cuts is priceless. There is also a larger center section available which allows you to make bigger ovals than the basic kit. I have both pieces and am pleased with the results.
> You can easily make your own circle cutting jig from an oblong piece of plastic, hardboard, plywood, almost anything. Drill a center hole, mount your router centered on this hole, then measure from the center of the hole to the diameter you need and drill a hole for a brad or finnish nail. Remember to pivot counter clockwise around the jig for making an outside cut, clockwise for an interior cut.


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI loninappleton
> 
> Take the screws back but this time do your own work..
> They should be 10-32 x 1/2" Phil.Pan.Head but do pickup some Allen Flat Hd.screws,,,
> ...


I will certainly do these things but not go back to the True Value where I got all the bad service. I'll save the $1.20 worth of screws for something else.
Whenever possible I support local businesses but enough is enough.

And an Ace Hardware isn't that far from me either. Any specification as to commons or steel or chrome screws that can take a lot of use?

I'm putting together a quickie temporary base just to see how the router behaves: noise, vibration, and noise.



Though I've used smaller devices I want to make sure I can use it safely.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

I do like Allen type screws alot but I don't like them plated, they must be baked after they zinc plate them and most don't do that.. 

So to say stick with the black ones they will stand up to alot..you can spray paint them with some Alum. paint and it will not change the steel...

Here's a small way to get back at them for giving you the wrong screws ,, It's a pain but it may help, take one screw in and ask for a refund, then go out the door and then go back in and return one more,then go out the door and then go back in and so on till you get them all returned , it's real pain for them to return your money and to put them back in to stock and maybe the guy that gave you the screws will check it better the next time... 


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loninappleton said:


> I will certainly do these things but not go back to the True Value where I got all the bad service. I'll save the $1.20 worth of screws for something else.
> Whenever possible I support local businesses but enough is enough.
> 
> And an Ace Hardware isn't that far from me either. Any specification as to commons or steel or chrome screws that can take a lot of use?
> ...


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

Yah well I don't hate retail that much, just one guy in one place.

He used the damned screw finder (that jig to screw in the sample I brought) but then
found the wrong stuff anyway.

He made me some car key duplicates that got stuck int he ignition on the coldest day of the year here in Wisconsin. I went and got keys made at a key place and figured it was 
an accident. But no more. If I ever have occasion to be near the place and need a batter or something and I see him, I leave.

I don't hate retail because I was in it myself working for min wage for longer than you care to hear about. But incompetence is another issue that the owner obviously hasn't addressed. I can't be the only one.


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

*another day of adventure*

At Ace hardware I got some more screws.

But I didn't get the black ones, I got the metric ones.

Too weird. The guy measured the screws to be 5 mm metric jobbies with an 8 degree pitch or something.

It turns out that the screw finder for regular screws will allow a few turns
before you find out it doesn't go any further. So when the guy turned the sample all the way, he used the metric tester instead.

The tester is a bunch of threaded inserts that they use to find a screw calibration.

The big moment will come tomorrow.

I wonder what would happen if I looked for conformat screws instead.

Those are supposed to thread wood the best according Bill Hylton in his book on making router tables.


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

*Where's Waldo?*

Progress today.

The metric screws fit and I am making a temporary base just to start the 
thing up secured to the table. I had a few false starts not thinking of lining up the handles to go into the cutout I made under the table. Then finding the right screw pattern was like playing Where's Waldo.

The tool I was using to make a relief in the surface to take the router did not cut very straight. The router is attached to make a startup but a startup only.

I will have to learn the leveling tricks when using a real table plate.

The good news is that having to redo the holes gave a second better pass at making the screw countersinks.

A worthwhile question is:

If I'm just starting up to check the motor operation, should I remove the 
collet and nut so it doesn't go flying?

I'll see how loose it is. There are two nut and collet assemblies. It prob'ly should come off. The initial startup will have the mandrel facing down rather than up so it is below the work surface and I stand clear.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi loninappleton

The collet nut should NOT fly off,just hand turn it down just a LITTLE bit...but don't get carried away just a little bit.you don't want to damage the collet without having a bit in place... 

======


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loninappleton said:


> Progress today.
> 
> The metric screws fit and I am making a temporary base just to start the
> thing up secured to the table. I had a few false starts not thinking of lining up the handles to go into the cutout I made under the table. Then finding the right screw pattern was like playing Where's Waldo.
> ...


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

Good advice. These sorts of things are not in the various manuals that come with the device-- but I still have to go through those.

I do have some 1/4 in bits to put in and secure the collet from damage.

Admittedly I am getting more curious about how soft start works and what the 
advantage is.


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## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

*First startup*

I took the advice given here and put in the 1/4 collet and one of my inexpensive bits from the smaller tool.

Then I gave it whirl with the router bench mounted and bit pointing down 
into the cabinet.

I must say I think that soft start has a lot of advantage.

Noise level is pretty high but that is expected with "real" tools. I'll have to dodge the owner and tenants where I am. The device will not get heavy use.
I'm talking a few times a year. But it's a device I wanted to get familiar with. Only way to do that is get one.

At some point I may get some shop space with my cutter. My cutter down the road cuts long lengths of board stock for me. The stock is used for the hobby of speaker building.

Question today is: I noticed the 1/4 collet and nust were pretty well lubricated.

What if any oil is used best for this where I can get a small quantity?

3 in One is common. All I have here is WD40.


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## john heff (Sep 7, 2008)

john heff said:


> Do you live near a Rockler Retail store? Rockler is reducing the in-store price on their $90 Eclipse/Circle Jig for "Black Friday" (actually Fri - Sun) by $50.... it will sell for $40 for those 3 days....while supply lasts. - John


Rockler has atleast two different advertisement circulars out for Thanksgiving weekend. One has the Eclipse/Circle Router Jig for $39.99 and the other has it for $49.99. There are other differences between the two sale-fliers....some items are the same on both but there are different items as well. The flier that has the $39.99 price for the circle jig also has the Tormek 2006 for $299.99 and the Benchdog ProMaxRT Table for $599.99. If anybody wants to buy any of these items and doesn't have the proper sale-flyer I can mail you mine but it would have to be mailed today or tomorrow for you to receive it in time. - John


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