# 18" Walnut Lazy Susan



## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

I just started this project but thought I'd post a couple of photos before it is finished. This will be a round end grain Black Walnut cutting board about 18" diameter and 1.5" thick. I cut and milled all the stock yesterday and today and tonight we glued up the sticks. Before we started glueing I drew a layout in CorelDraw so I wouldn't waste any precious Walnut.

This is the board for the project - 4/4 rough, 12" wide, a bit over 8' long. The specification is for all heartwood so the little bit of sapwood on this board will go on other cutting boards or projects - 









Here's the layout - 









All the pieces glued up for the night. We used Titebond III even though it isn't a cutting board, just a Lazy Susan, mainly for the longer open working time. That's a lot of sticks to glue up if they start tacking right away!









And I had an opportunity to take an artsy shot prior to glueing the sticks together and I don't like to pass those up - 









I probably won't have time tomorrow - busy day at church - but next I'll take these out of the clamps, surface lightly on the drum sander, then cut into strips about 1.6875" which should allow me a nice 1.5" finished thickness.

More later!
Davd


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

Nice, how was church?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

so far so great...


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Daikusan said:


> Nice, how was church?


Fantastic! We've got a new Worship Pastor in view of a call and he's really, really good! Leads choir and band like he knows what he's doing... I think it's because he does. Sings pretty nice, too. Almost like a David Phelps clone if that were to ever be possible. Got another full day today with him so the Lazy Susan will get picked back up tomorrow.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

I kinda of like to focus on furniture type projects for the design and execution challenges they tend to provide. BUT....about 6 weeks ago, the wife and kid talked me into doing some cutting boards and lazy susans' to sell. I have to say, after having done about 18 or so of em, so far. I've found it quite enjoyable. The level to which one can push the design and execution challenge is really unlimited. Even a simple, straightforward cutting board, when done well has quite an appealing quality. I look at these kind of projects with a much more appreciative eye now. 

Not to mention that B/W picture is simply outstanding!!

Nice goin' David!


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

I love it when folks give a running account of the projects they're doing. Some of us don't readily absorb a large amount of information in one sitting, and it's nice to be able to contemplate each step before being presented with a new installment.

I really like your ideas for this project, and it was very nice of you to include the cutting diagram. Thanks.


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

I also would have used one of the better glues for a glue up like this, not for the drying time but to use a better glue as this type of joining needs to have the best chance to stray together. N


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Had a few minutes before heading back to church and cut the boards into strips. We just set them sort of in order how they came off the saw but we'll probably move them around, flip some 180°, etc. Also, I decided to cut them first and then run through the drum sander. It's a lot easier handling a bunch of small strips than trying to get a really large panel flat. We might get a chance to sand them after church tonight.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Looks good and the running account with photos is most appreciated. I've just started on my 1st cutting board and it is proving to be an intersting proceess.


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

Looking good. Glad church went well!!


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Glued up, sanded to 120, ready for the CNC to cut the recess for the Lazy Susan turntable and the outer profile.

Using the full width of the drum sander - 









Sanded and smooth -


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

Looks good already, it'll be amazing with the finish applied.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

AndyL said:


> Looks good already, it'll be amazing with the finish applied.


Thanks, Andy! They'll be here shortly to decide if they want lacquer or mineral oil and Beeswax. I put paint thinner on it and it really pops.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

save the lacquer for furniture... mineral oil and beeswax is the ticket. The end grain on this piece is going to be fantastic.


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

TwoSkies57 said:


> save the lacquer for furniture... mineral oil and beeswax is the ticket. The end grain on this piece is going to be fantastic.


That would get my vote too.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

TwoSkies57 said:


> save the lacquer for furniture... mineral oil and beeswax is the ticket. The end grain on this piece is going to be fantastic.





AndyL said:


> That would get my vote too.


Well, y'all are in luck; they came by yesterday and decided on mineral oil and Beeswax. I'll cut the profile today or tomorrow and we'll get to see how it looks after that. Thanks, guys!


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Well, I sort of forgot I started this thread so here's the update - it's finished!! I used the CNC to cut the profile and a 1/32" recess for the outer race of the Lazy Susan bearing. I could have just used some thin washers under the inner race but it was easy to just cut the recess for the outer race.

Having a wide drum sander is really nice but the finest grit I have is 120 and that leaves noticeable straight line scratches. These scratches take a LONG time to get out with my DeWalt ROS so I broke out my 'old iron', an air operated 1/3 sheet orbital. This will seriously hog some material. A side note on the dust is that I used the downdraft sanding box we just built and even though the 1/3 sheet sander doesn't have any dust collection but creates a lot of dust, the downdraft box caught almost all of the dust this sander was kicking up and that was pretty nice.

The last cutting boards we did were only about 12" x 12" and took a solid hour of sanding with 120 grit on the ROS with about 5 changes of sanding pads. The 1/3 sheet sander with 120 grit did the entire top in 5 minutes - a significant difference, for sure. I sanded about 2 minutes, changed paper although the first sheet was probably ok, and then let my compressor catch up. After a short compressor rest I sanded the top again and then a quick pass on the underside. I followed up with the ROS for a few minutes and then hand sanded for a few minutes with 220 grit and it was glassy smooth.

It has a couple of coats of mineral oil followed by our mixture of Beeswax and mineral oil and then hand polished.

On the CNC (dust shoe removed so I could video and that will be posted soon) - 









Straight line scratches - 









The two sanders - 









In process - 









Underside with bearing - 









Finished top side - 









The 'glamour' shot - LOL!









When I finish the video I'll post it here - enjoy!
David


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Very nice!


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Too good to cut up!!!!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

thats a keeper!!


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

@difalkner

A couple of questions:

How did you "clean" the surface prior to adding the finish coat? Tack cloth, soft cloth wiping ec......?

What was the "mix" on the mineral oil and beeswax?

Beautiful work by the way!!


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Outstanding!


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

JFPNCM said:


> @difalkner
> 
> A couple of questions:
> 
> ...


Thanks, Jon! I vacuumed the sanding dust off the dry wood and then used the air compressor to blow any dust out of the tiny areas that vacuuming wouldn't get. From there all I did was pour mineral oil on and rub it in for a minute. Overnight that soaked in and I did a second coat. When that soaked in I used my Beeswax and mineral oil mixture, about 10% Beeswax to mineral oil, and rubbed that in for a minute. Then I heated the oven to 170°, which is the lowest setting our oven will go to, turned the oven off and set the board in. My thinking is that the Beeswax will further penetrate the cells if it is slightly warm so I just apply it at room temp and warm the entire board with the finish. It's not hot enough to affect the glue or warp the wood and I just leave it in for an hour or so to cool with the oven (which happens in probably 10 minutes but I still leave it in a while). When I pull it out of the oven there's always Beeswax standing in some places so I use a soft rag and wipe that in by just rubbing the entire surface. After a few hours you can handle the board without getting the mixture on your hands and I rub it out a few more times.

Is that helpful?
David


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

@diflakner:

Very helpful indeed David, thanks. I've used that same cleaning approach on boxes etc and it seems to work well. 

Did you have to melt the beeswax (I've only seen it in block form) or did it basically dissolve in the mineral oil? 

Intersting approach with the oven, appreciate the idea.

Thanks again.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

@JFPNCM

Jon - not sure what process David used to mix his beeswax/mineral oil, but for some cutting boards I made recently, I put some mineral oil in a small pot and heated it over low heat. I bought my beeswax in block form and cut/broke it up into small pieces, then added it to the pot of mineral oil and continued over low heat, stirring until the beeswax melted. I mixed up enough to put into some small canning jars and gave one jar to each of the recipients of the cutting boards for Christmas. There are various instructions on the internet about using double boilers, etc. and warning of flair up but I used very low heat, stirring constantly to avoid spilling the mixture (we have a gas stove). I allowed the mixture to cool before applying it to the cutting boards by rubbing it on, then buffing it out after it dried for a while. I should have stated that I rubbed on two coats of straight mineral oil, first, allowing it to soak into the boards, then wiped the excess.


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## Mayo.Mick (Sep 27, 2016)

Nice job David!


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

vchiarelli said:


> @JFPNCM
> 
> Jon - not sure what process David used to mix his beeswax/mineral oil, but for some cutting boards I made recently, I put some mineral oil in a small pot and heated it over low heat. I bought my beeswax in block form and cut/broke it up into small pieces, then added it to the pot of mineral oil and continued over low heat, stirring until the beeswax melted. I mixed up enough to put into some small canning jars and gave one jar to each of the recipients of the cutting boards for Christmas. There are various instructions on the internet about using double boilers, etc. and warning of flair up but I used very low heat, stirring constantly to avoid spilling the mixture (we have a gas stove). I allowed the mixture to cool before applying it to the cutting boards by rubbing it on, then buffing it out after it dried for a while. I should have stated that I rubbed on two coats of straight mineral oil, first, allowing it to soak into the boards, then wiped the excess.


That is *exactly *how we did it, Vince. And all this time I thought it was a secret formula! Oh, well, there goes my mailbox money... :wink:

I put the mixture with Beeswax in a Tupperware container and dip into it after the two coats of mineral oil, as well, and then buff out later. It's an easy, albeit messy, finish to apply. I tell people to just pick up a small bottle of mineral oil at the pharmacy and reapply a few times each year depending on how often they use the board. If they want the Beeswax solution I'll give them a slice of Beeswax but so far, out of the 35-40 boards we've built, none have wanted to mess with it.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

@vchiarelli @difalkner

Vince, David: Appreciate the added details, thanks. I'm currently working on my 1st cutting board and will be at the finishing stage in the near future.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Spectacular grain pattern, David! 
I see you're another 'jitterbug' fan... 
Mine's got issues right now so I'm switching to a pneumatic random orbital..see how that goes.
This one uses _very_ little air:
(2 cfm)
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/6-in-random-orbital-air-sander/A-p8344541e
Took it for a test drive and I like it!


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

I like that sander, Dan! And only 2 cfm? Wow! I have a 2 HP compressor, a Craftsman about 45 years old, and about 40 years ago the motor was damaged but I had a 1.5 HP motor and have been running that ever since. It does ok but this 1/3 sheet sander will bring that compressor to its knees in about 2 minutes. I may have to get one of those pneumatic random orbital sanders.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

OK --- explain to this dummy the differences and advantages of going with the air over my Dewalt electric ROS. Besides one uses electricity and the other uses air.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

John; you're definitely no dummy!
The air powered sander has very high operating sped, no brushes, and basically not very much that can go wrong with it.
If you've already got a decent compressor with at least 20gal. tank capacity this particular sander works well...the 2 cfm is the key! Most air powered RO sanders need more air than that, more like 6 cfm.
This particular one is very light weight and the vacuum system is a nice design. 

Sorry, David; didn't mean to change the subject...that finished board is gorgeous!!!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Wowsers , awesome outcome !


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Reeeeal Nice.
Herb


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> John; you're definitely no dummy!
> The air powered sander has very high operating sped, no brushes, and basically not very much that can go wrong with it.
> If you've already got a decent compressor with at least 20gal. tank capacity this particular sander works well...the 2 cfm is the key! Most air powered RO sanders need more air than that, more like 6 cfm.
> This particular one is very light weight and the vacuum system is a nice design.
> ...


Thanks, guys!!

Dan, if it took building an 18" Walnut Lazy Susan to find out about that sander then I'm cool with that. :laugh2:


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

It occurs to me that y'all might be interested in my setup for some of the photos so here's one that I didn't post but I'll be using it on Etsy soon. There are other photographers here and you guys will enjoy this and probably be able to pick holes in my setup but it works ok for me. When my son moved out a couple of months ago we set his old room up as a studio setting, albeit a low budget and simple one, but I can take an item in there, place it on the table, turn the lights on and have good control over lighting for just about any item. Those of you that do photography may see this often but if you're not into photography this may be new to you.

For the Lazy Susan I decided to take one shot with it set on our table so I moved the lights to the dining area - that's what I'll show you below. Ignore the vacuum cleaner, guitar, and junk beside the table - temporary storage while we're cleaning out a spot elsewhere - what can I say... it's a lived in house! LOL! 

Here's the shot straight off the camera, no post editing - not bad but could use some help - 









Here's the final shot - 









And here's the setup for the shot above - 









For the photographers the camera is a Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ200, Leica lens, settings are ISO 100, f 2.8, 1/4 second, -0.33 eV, RAW 4000 x 3000 x 48b. The editor is ACDSee Ultimate and tools used were 20% dehaze, auto contrast and color 15%, exposure moved another -0.15 eV, and fill light bumped a few points, then resized to 1080 x 810 and saved as a jpg file.

Enjoy!
David


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Need some photo help, David. I keep getting shadows or off color pics. Do I have to hit it with light from 2 angles?


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

difalkner said:


> Dan, if it took building an 18" Walnut Lazy Susan to find out about that sander then I'm cool with that. :laugh2:


I'm with you, David. I'm turning into RainMan I think. See something new, gotta have it. But since insulation isn't new - he won't get it.

Gonna look into that sander for sure. The price is right.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Good work so far David. I see Titebond has a new(er) glue out called Extend that allows longer working time for more complex glue ups. I haven't tried it yet but there has been a couple of times over the years that I wish I had.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

honesttjohn said:


> Need some photo help, David. I keep getting shadows or off color pics. Do I have to hit it with light from 2 angles?


Yes sir, almost always. You can use a reflector or two to reduce shadows if you only have one light source. The color of the light is important, too, in color work. If you're using a camera mounted flash try angling it upward or putting a diffuser in front of the strobe - thin white sheet of paper or light linen cloth - just something to keep it from being so harsh.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Good work so far David. I see Titebond has a new(er) glue out called Extend that allows longer working time for more complex glue ups. I haven't tried it yet but there has been a couple of times over the years that I wish I had.


I have used it for so long that I can't remember if it takes longer to set. I do know that if you are holding 2 pieces together to get an initial set that it is a little slower.
I started using Tite Bond II to glue wood veneer and fought the slipping and fast setting, so went to the Tite Bond panel glue which works 10 times better ,doesn't set fast and spreads more evenly.
Herb


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

The main reason I use the Titebond III is because it's FDA approved for food service with the bonus being a longer open time. This is from their web site - 

_Titebond III is non-toxic, solvent free and cleans up with water - safer to use than traditional waterproof wood glues. It provides strong initial tack, sands easily without softening and is FDA approved for indirect food contact (cutting boards). The ultimate in wood glues - ideal for both interior and exterior applications._


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Mmmmm....


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

As promised, here's the video for the build -


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

Thanks for the video it was worth the wait!!!!!


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Cool video!!!! The pattern looks like it was end grain but then again during the process it looked like the long way. Either way, heck of a grain pattern.

I have trouble taking a pic with my Iphone.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

honesttjohn said:


> Cool video!!!! The pattern looks like it was end grain but then again during the process it looked like the long way. Either way, heck of a grain pattern.
> 
> I have trouble taking a pic with my Iphone.


Thanks, John! It is definitely end grain. I want to do another one and keep some of the sapwood along with the heartwood - that ought to be pretty nice, too.


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## Daikusan (Apr 12, 2013)

difalkner said:


> Thanks, John! It is definitely end grain. I want to do another one and keep some of the sapwood along with the heartwood - that ought to be pretty nice, too.


Waiting to see the pics of that one, another beauty I'm sure.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

@difalkner @vchiarelli

David: Appreciate the video as well as the still photos. Excellent teaching tools.


Relative to the discussion you and Vince shared re the "finish", I recently found a premixed combination of mineral oil, beeswax and carnuba from Howard Products (howardproducts.com) which is touted as being a butcher block conditioner. I decided to try it on a small block made up of pieces of black walnut and maple that were cutoffs from a larger board I'm still working on. The photos below show the putcome, T7 is the raw piece and T1 and T5 show the differences when it's applied to end grain and side grain respectivley. 

Just out of curiosity, I plan to use another couple of pieces to compare this mix with plain mineral oil.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Thanks David.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

@difalkner

David: I noticed you used a plastic putty knife (for lack of a better term) to intially distribute the oil over the board. Any particular reason for that approach or a matter of convenience?


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

JFPNCM said:


> @difalkner
> 
> David: I noticed you used a plastic putty knife (for lack of a better term) to intially distribute the oil over the board. Any particular reason for that approach or a matter of convenience?


Only because it doesn't soak up any mineral oil like a paper towel or rag, Jon. Sometimes I just use my hands. I keep that plastic tub ready with paper towels soaked with mineral oil so for the second coat I just use what's already in the tub. At some point there will be enough in the tub that I won't have to pour from a bottle, or at least not much.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Yup, me too! I bought a plastic tub with a snap on lid that's exclusively for the oiling process. No cleanup req'd!


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## HHJ (Mar 27, 2017)

AndyL said:


> That would get my vote too.


Count me as well :wink: Hope so the finishing goes nice and smooth as well!


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## comp56 (Mar 30, 2017)

I like the B&W shot good stuff...


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