# JessEm Master R Lift Excel Repair Model #02201



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

My router table was in need of some minor repairs. The Microdial feature was not working as it should be. This dial is used as a zero reference point to make micro adjustments to the cutting height. With this dial you can set a point and turn the dial to zero and make adjustments both up and down form a fixed height by taking note of the dial reading. This feature comes in very handing when you need to make height adjustments to make different cuts. 

If you recall from my last post about building door cabinets, I used my router table to cut the stub tenons. I had to cut all the pieces for the bottom first and then flip the rail and stiles over to make the second cut to finish the tenon. Unfortunately, the Microdial was not turning as I made height adjustments to the router bit.

Tonight I decided to try and figure out what was causing the microdial not to turn. If you do not own any JessEm products I can assure you they are well machined and built. The Allan bolts were tight and easy to remove using an Allan key. There were a lot of bolts to remove to take the height adjustment assembly apart. I took a few pictures of it first in case I ran into trouble when it came time to put it all back together. (Thank god for my Andriod Phone HTC)

After what seemed to be an eternity I figured out what was causing the dial not to turn. There are three belts underneath that work in conjunction with a worm gear. There is a 90 degree change of direction from the actual router lift into a gear box and then directly over to the MicroDial assembly. I have taken a few pictures to help you understand what I am talking about.

The gear box assembly had to be taken apart by removing (4) smaller Allan bolts and then (4) more larger Allan bolts which sit up against the underside of the router table. Another (4) four Allan bolts on the top side of the router table also had to be removed. 

Once I had the gear box assemble taken apart I found two gears mounted over a shaft held in place with a very small set screw (#6-32 16 TPI). When I examined these gears I noticed the one on top spun around on the shaft and the other gear was a fixed firmly to the shaft. As it turns out the gear on the top was responsible for turning the MicroDial. VOILÀ ! problem found. 

I had to search for the smallest Allan key I had and removed the first gear which in turn was responsible for turning the MicroDial. Once the gear was removed I found a small indentation on the shaft which the set screw was pushed into, this in turn is suppose to hold the gear in place on the shaft and prevent it from turning. 

The second gear was removed and I found the set screw turned well and past the inside diameter of the gear allowing the set screw to function properly. However, the first gear which turned the MicroDial would not protrude into the inside diameter and allow the set screw to wedge into the hole on the shaft and thus prevent it from turning. Hence the reason the gear would not function as intended, the set screw was unable to hold the gear in place because the set screw threads on the inside of the gear were stripped.

After figuring out the threads per inch (TPI) using a gauge I pulled out my tap and dye set. I took the #6-32 tap out and threaded it into the set screw hole of the gear which which had the stripped threads. Once I saw the tap go inside and protrude on the inside I knew I had the problem fixed. For good measure I did the other gear in case it was needed.

Much to my horror I dropped the small set screw.... I really thought I was screwed but after 5 minutes searching on my hands and knees I found it WHOA!

I put everything back together and believe it or not it all worked the way it should work. I wanted to share with the members on this forum because I am sure this will surface again and if it does now you know what to do.

Once again I took a few pictures and they include a brief narration explaining what I did to fix the router lift.


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## Web Shepherd (Feb 8, 2012)

Dan ~ Although I don't own this router lift, I found that your photo tutorial was brilliant. Thanks for taking time to document this and sharing with the rest of us. Isn't it great when you can fix stuff without having to ship it back to the manufacturer?

Bob


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Dan, I have the same lift except that I bought if from Incra. I sure hope that I never have the problem that you described. I certainly don't have the skills to make the repair that you describe. The lift would have to be sent back to the factory for repair and I bet that the cost of shipping aa well as the repair would be very expensive and almost justify the purchase of a new lift. You certainly saved yourself a lot of money being able to make the repair yourself, I certainly do admire guys like you with the skills that you have.

I recently had my lift apart just to experiment with with putting the motor into the plunge base and see how it worked, I had trouble getting it back together due to my non mechanical ability, I'm not talking about just putting it back in the clamping pads, I'm talking about getting the parts that move the lift with the motor in it to run smoothly up and down, I did get it fixed but it was not an exciting project and once I got it back and working, I am going leave it alone and buy another router for my hand held work and Harry has put me on to the Compact Makita that he is wanting if and when he finds the converter for the differecnece for the voltage in his country,

Jerry


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Jerry believe it or not I am not that mechanical either but my Scottish heritage forces me to pull a rabbit form my hat ever so often. I think were all afraid of messing things up but once you sit down and carefully troubleshoot things I am sure we can all figure stuff out.

I may in the future modify the set screw and put a bigger one in to allow it to hold better. This will be a relatively simple modification by drilling a larger hole and tapping a new thread to allow the larger set screw to perform its function. If you saw how big the recess was why in earth would you put such a small set screw in with limited holding power.

I am going to contact JessEm and suggest this modification to them and see what sort of feedback I receive. If I do hear anything back I will share their comments with everyone. I am confident they will be receptive as they strive to produce top notch equipment.

|Never the less I thank you for your praise as I was pretty happy I could repair it myself. Now that I have this router table I do not think I could live without it.

Bob
I am glad you found the tutorial easy to follow with the aid of the pictures. I strive to pass onto others what I learn and trust me it takes a lot of time for me to figure things out like this. I may not be fast but I am stubborn as hell and will not give up till I get it fixed. :fie:


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Jerry believe it or not I am not that mechanical either but my Scottish heritage forces me to pull a rabbit form my hat ever so often. I think were all afraid of messing things up but once you sit down and carefully troubleshoot things I am sure we can all figure stuff out.
> 
> I may in the future modify the set screw and put a bigger one in to allow it to hold better. This will be a relatively simple modification by drilling a larger hole and tapping a new thread to allow the larger set screw to perform its function. If you saw how big the recess was why in earth would you put such a small set screw in with limited holding power.
> 
> ...


Dan, I sre am anxious to hear if Jessem will respond in a positive way. I wrote about it to Mark because I bought mind from Incra. I ask him how often this problem has come up and in future if I should encounter the problem with my lift, what I should do, we'll have to wait to hear from him too. 

By the way just for the sake of conversation, before I bought the lift I bought a height gauge that reads out in thousands. When my bother was here last winter we compared the accuracy of the marks on the lift with what the height gauge revealed and I am glad to report that they were perfectly calibrated which means that you can certainly trust the mechanics of the lift. However, again, somethime I suspect that that level of accuracy is a bit over kill for woodworking as it has been pointed out to me several times on this forum and I am catching on to the fact that it is probably true, but by the same token, I like tools that have the potential for such accuracy even if I don't really need it, just the way some of us are wired I suppose.

Jerry


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Jerry for my last project on the doors I had cut the groove for the rails which matched the plywood I had. When I found out the plywood was too small I had to buy some more and it was not the same size. I had to shave off between 1/32 - 1/64 to get the right fit to slide the new plywood into the existing groove. In this instance I had to have the accuracy we speak off to achieve the results I got.

I will let you know Jerry when I hear back from JessEm.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

The set below comes with a cutter just for the small size of the 1/4" plywood.

11pc 1 4" Shank Slot Tongue Groove Router Bit Set | eBay

===


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Here is what Mark Mueller wrote back to me in regard to the lift, it's pretty much a disclaimer to the issue in my opinion but I do hava a lot of respect for Mark and what he helped me with in the past. The part about not having gears is contrary to what Dan described I think.

Jerry




Hi, Jerry-

The MastRLift-II and the previous generation (which was actually version 3)
are almost bomb proof, and mechanical problems are pretty rare. I've never
heard of the problem that you're describing, as the JessEm units don't have
any gears.

In any case, they're quite field-serviceable if necessary and the whole
thing is just nuts and bolts for disassembly/reassembly. If you did need to
send it somewhere, it's probably $25 each way to our shop and maybe $70 each
way to JessEm in Canada.

There's not much to do to yours to keep it in top shape. Clean it
thoroughly a few times a year & wipe down the steel guide posts with a rag
shot with WD-40. Clean the lift screw with a fine brush and maybe apply
some dry graphite lock lubricant from the hardware store to the threads.


-Mark


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## Dinh-Hao Vu (Jun 8, 2018)

Hi,
Thank you for sharing your post, 
I just bought this table same mecanism as your. Woudl like to know what model of router will fit with this table. I have bosch 1617evs but it doesnt fit. 
Thank you


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Mast-R-Lift Excell
there must be a reason...
CS at Jessem is outstanding and they will set you right...


these are the motors they list that will fit...

• Porter Cable 7518 (4.2” Motor Dia.)
• Porter Cable 690/890 (3.5” Motor Dia.)
• Bosch 1617/1618 (3.5” Motor Dia.)
• DeWalt 610/618/616 (3.5” Motor Dia.)
• Makita 1101 (3.218” Motor Dia.)
• Hitachi M12VC & KM12VC (3.267” Motor Dia.)
• Milwaukee 5625/5626 (4.143” Motor Dia.)
• Milwaukee 5615/5616/5619 (3.32” Motor Dia.)
• Craftsman 17543/17540/28190 (3.5” Motor Dia.)
• Rigid R29302 (3.625” Motor Dia.)


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I have the Porter Cable 7518 in mine. Have used it for years and it is still operating like the day I bought it. Never had to do anything to it.
Herb


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