# Using routers to trim 1-2 mm of Melamine board



## mustaque (Sep 18, 2011)

I am trying to make kitchen cabinets. I want to the Router to trim off the door edges at right angle. How do I use the Router to do that?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum.

To trim the Melamine, I would use a flush trim bit - if I understand what you are trying to achieve.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

mustaque said:


> I am trying to make kitchen cabinets. I want to the Router to trim off the door edges at right angle. How do I use the Router to do that?



A little more info? do you just want to knock of the sharp edges?? if so a 45 degree bit will do that. A flush trim bit wont do a right angle only a streight cut. Unless you make a jig and put the door's at a angle? Do you have a router table if so this won't be any problum. If i understand a right angle a 45 degree ?? Or you can use a hand held router if small and not to top heavy you can use this bit with beiring on it This will be more of a job tho this is the bit 
Freud 2185874 45 Degree Chamfer Router Bit 1-3/4"


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

mustaque said:


> I am trying to make kitchen cabinets. I want to the Router to trim off the door edges at right angle. How do I use the Router to do that?


This little jig and bit are specially made to fit trim routers for edge trimming laminex.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

The quickest way to trim a melamine edge is with a sharp plane blade (taken out of the plane) running flat against the surface of the door with the blade held to point 20 to 30 degrees towards the body of the door. In other words a skewed cut. Trying to trim melamine edging with a laminate trimmer can be a bit frustrating as it gets marked too easily if the cutting edges are too low and don't exactly match the bearing diameter (which is what you get with cheap trim cutters). The bearings also have a tendency to mark melamine and laminate surfaces (especially dark/high gloss ones) which is why a lot of cabinetmakers avoid them for tasks like this. Any arris (sharp edge) is then taken off with a sanding stick used at 45 degrees to produce a bevel. 1 to 2 long, smooth passes per edge. For reference a sanding stick is an offcut of 3/4in MDF, circa 4in wide x 8 to 12in long with P120 grit alox sanding paper glued to one side (contact adhesive)

If the door and edge are laminated with Lamex/Formica (as opposed to being melamine) the face of the door just beneath the edging is taped off with a single layer of masking tape and a straight bottom bearing trimmer (like these, 2-flute will do fine) is used to make the trim cut with the bare minimum of cutting edge projection from the trimmer/router. The tape is then removed and the edge filed flush with long, smooth strokes using a fresh, clean single cut engineers file (8 to 12in) at an angle of 10 to 15 degrees to the surface. It generally takes 2 to 4 strokes to file back. Clean the file with white spirits (don't know the US term, mineralised alcohol??) from time to time to prevent gumming up

Regards

Phil


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