# Dovetail Spline Joints with the OP jig



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

This is just a Small Show and Tell how to use the OP Miter Jig to put in dovetail spline joints..

It's very easy with the OP jig,,all you will need is a long 1/2" 8 deg. dovetail bit,,
The jig will also make the splines for you,,that's real plus,,like they say,set and forget and joints and splines will come out right on the button..

I used MDF for the splines to show you don't need to drive them, little glue,let it set for a bit then cut off the splines..

Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue

16 pc 8mm Shank Dovetail Router Bit Set For Leigh Jig - eBay (item 130296453304 end time Apr-02-09 18:52:38 PDT)

16 pc 1/4 Shank Dovetail Router Bit Set For Leigh Jig - eBay (item 140310621241 end time Apr-03-09 19:28:45 PDT)

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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi BJ,

I am hearing more and more how handy that jig really is and you just further proved it's usefullness. I don't think I have seen splines made that way before and find it extremely interesting.

Thanks for sharing this method.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome and thanks,,, Bob

They do make a jig to do that One job..

The Kehoe Dovetail Jig :: dovetailsplinejig.com

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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

Bobj3: this thread & a similar one concerning the Kehoe jig started me thinking -- which is dangerous. I finally found the "older" OP miter jig that I purchased maybe 20 years ago & subsequently put in a moving & later a storage box when I moved more than a few years ago! -- Life Is Good!

Now here's my question: Did you drill additional holes in the miter gauge base to hold the fence face/work stock @ 45 degrees against the miter gauge head? 

The base of the miter gauge jig that I have does not have 2 holes to position the fence against the miter gauge head. The jig base does have the 4 sets of hols to hold the fence @ 90 degrees to the miter gauge head.

If you did, do you recall the spacing? Or if your miter gauge base was pre-drilled to hold the fence against the miter gauge head, could you post the spacing & hole diameter? 

Thanks & a tip of the hat... RCN


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ray

No extra holes drilled by me it came with all the holes in place.. 
I did add a gauge out of some 1/4" threaded rod and some stop blocks for a quick set thing..

" spacing & hole diameter? " same spacing and pin size as on the face plate..just turn yours to let you setup the 45 deg. setting ...mark and dril; the two holes..it's about 1 1/2" from the white backup block..with the hold down clamp on it..you just need about 2 " in front of the 45 deg. board for the dovetail bit..

I also made a 2 x 4 block so I could move the fence from one set of pins to the other without looking or trying to find the holes , that was a real drag for me so I fixed that error..

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Hi Ray

I just recalled I had some snapshots,they may help  from 05-20-08

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Ray Newman said:


> Bobj3: this thread & a similar one concerning the Kehoe jig started me thinking -- which is dangerous. I finally found the "older" OP miter jig that I purchased maybe 20 years ago & subsequently put in a moving & later a storage box when I moved more than a few years ago! -- Life Is Good!
> 
> Now here's my question: Did you drill additional holes in the miter gauge base to hold the fence face/work stock @ 45 degrees against the miter gauge head?
> 
> ...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi BJ,

It's nice to see that, yet again, this particular jig/tool has more capibilites than many realize.  In the "other" thread, when this was mentioned I knew an understood exactly the how. 

Ray, the base should only have 8 holes, 4 on each side of the guide slot. The fence has 4 brass pins.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, I reckon that Oak Park should now put you on commission for each jig sold above their normal average because after such a convincing demonstration I think they will be flying out of their door.


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## Lonely Raven (Mar 11, 2009)

That's pretty cool! Looks like a well thought out jig. 

Now, how would I use that on a 60" entry way bench I'm working on? 

I'd like to dovetail spline the corners at each end, as the bench is going to be *very* simple in design, and all the effort will be in wood choice.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Eric

I think this is when using the right tool for the right job comes into play..

I think the 60" long board is just to long for the OP jig, it looks like a job for the Kehoe jig or just put them in by hand with a saw and chisel  

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Lonely Raven said:


> That's pretty cool! Looks like a well thought out jig.
> 
> Now, how would I use that on a 60" entry way bench I'm working on?
> 
> I'd like to dovetail spline the corners at each end, as the bench is going to be *very* simple in design, and all the effort will be in wood choice.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

That would be nice " commission " but I don't think so  hahahah LOL
I would almost think they knew the jig could do this type of joint but didn't say anything about,, the backer board on the jig is just the right height for the bit to pass under, by say about .010 " and can be used to set the bit up..

But I didn't know that at 1st. so put a little nick in the backer board  on the 1st pass...
When using the taller bit a small shim must be put in place to make the keys out of 1/2" wide stock, I use two layers of masking tape to move it out just a little bit..
But that maybe why OP didn't say anything about it..
Not all masking tape is made the same, it's a easy fix but it's hard point to get over to the end user...,, but once it's done the keys are just the right size and slip right in clean..and like most dovetail joints moving the bit up/down just a little bit will make the joint tighter if that's what's called for, to wedge the key in place ..  but I will say you need room for the glue.. 


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harrysin said:


> Bj, I reckon that Oak Park should now put you on commission for each jig sold above their normal average because after such a convincing demonstration I think they will be flying out of their door.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Great post BJ! Thanks for the info! I need more hours in the day to try all this stuff out!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb ( Dep ) hahaaha

Thanks and you're welcome ,,I know I have said this b/4 ,the OP jig is one of the great ones..it can do so many jobs..the one I like best of all is the blind sliding dovetail...,it is so easy to make drawers with this jig, to me I don't like to see any joints or end grains etc. 

The last time I did a count of how many jobs this jig can do I came up with 10 and do them very well ..  , with just a little bit of rework it makes a great small circle jig..for just one of them.. 



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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Feel free to email me any posts or links that apply to this jig. I am very interested in everything it can do.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

Will do,,, here's a hard one to do without this jig,, 45 deg.lap joints but with this jig set 45 deg. it's a easy job to do...  plus and no tee track needed 
By the way the lap joint is a very strong joint 

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CanuckGal said:


> Feel free to email me any posts or links that apply to this jig. I am very interested in everything it can do.


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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

Bobj3: thanks for the addiitonal pictyures! I ran out of time today to do anything. But I did get my fractional drills (by 64th.) out as well as the number & letter drills -- JIC (Just-In-Case).

Thanks again.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Bump.....


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## Lonely Raven (Mar 11, 2009)

Wow, great old thread. I still have my Kehoe Jig sitting in a drawer, and I never got to use it for the project I bought it for! I'll have to see if I can churn out a box or something over the winter.


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