# How to add dust collection to my router table?



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

My home made table has worked great for me so far. But when throwing it together I did not consider dust collection at all. So now it’s time to consider it. As I rout it seems like most of the dust gets sucked into the “cabinet” then gets blown out the front. 

I was thinking I would relocate the power switch. Add a door to the front. Drill a hole in the bbottom end of the back to accept my shop vac. Then drill a few holes in the sides (high up) to allow air to flow in. 

Any other ideas or suggestions? 

Thanks!!!!


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hi, Nickbee. I saw on a web site where a guy had attached a DC blast gate in the door of his table instead of just drilling holes. That way he could regulate the amount of air intake with the gate to get maximum collection. It looked like a good idea to me. Wish I had found that idea before drilling holes in my door.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I'm considering putting a slot in the bottom of my cabinet door.
Maybe 1/2" tall by 6-8" long. Right at the bottom edge where it meets the cabinet shelf.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nickbee

The trick is to get it down the tube b/4 it gets in the hole below the table top and all over the shop or floating around the shop..
The one below will suck up about 95% of the dust and chips...the other 5% will be part of using router on a router table...

http://www.routerforums.com/47957-post39.html


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Nickbee said:


> My home made table has worked great for me so far. But when throwing it together I did not consider dust collection at all. So now it’s time to consider it. As I rout it seems like most of the dust gets sucked into the “cabinet” then gets blown out the front.
> 
> I was thinking I would relocate the power switch. Add a door to the front. Drill a hole in the bbottom end of the back to accept my shop vac. Then drill a few holes in the sides (high up) to allow air to flow in.
> 
> ...


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## woodchip7 (May 21, 2007)

The blast gate is the best idea. Wood magazine had an article on this. Works very well. Hole for the DC port needs to be same as the blast gate. Blast gate allows you to adjust the air flow to maximize dust collection. Adding a collection port to the top of the table will also help. Some guys run 4" DC port and blast gate then branch off the 4" with 2 1/2" to the top of the table. Works great.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Do you guys have a link to one of these blast ports...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nickbee

You can get them from Rockler and many other supply outlets but because you will find out they work so well you will want more than one...

One is not to bad but if you buy 5 or more well you see what I mean.
You can make your own very easy and cheap with some MDF/hardboard and a hole saw.
Plus they will fit your own setup 


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Nickbee said:


> Do you guys have a link to one of these blast ports...


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## woodchip7 (May 21, 2007)

Tried to attach an article from Wood magazine but it was to big. It describes exactly what you need. It's in the SEPT 2007 issue. Guess I would build the blast gate. Not that hard. It's just a hole with a sliding cover over it. Before you get to involved I would make sure how big a hole you want. Are you using a shop vac or DC? Would think that would make a difference as with how many CFMs you got to pull to get the results you want. Some folks probably know how to compute that stuff. I know if not done right it may not work. I just experiment until I get it right. I plan on doing this to my RT when I get the shop up and running. Let us know how it works out for you.


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## Birdflu (Nov 6, 2007)

One of the most overlooked part of a dust collection system is that all parts of the dust collector path must be GROUNDED.

Mixing air and fine dust, when missing one component is safe.

Ignition from a static discharge (ESD) (easily found when not grounded) can cause a very nasty fire and in extreme cases a moderate explosion.

Example: Rubbing two styro coffee cups together can generate nearly a thousand volts of instantaneous ESD, more commonly exhibited as a spark. Think of the results.
These dangers are easily found when air and fine particulate of any kind are mixed together.

FWIW


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## woodchip7 (May 21, 2007)

Static would not be a problem if using metal ducting. Plastic or PVC on the other hand does produce static. Shop vacs are notorius for static due to the plastic hoses.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I can tell you how many times I have been zapped by my vac.system, it's the small one that gets me most of the time ,I have a large steel work bench and it gets me all the time when I'm cleaning up....the norm is right on my arm or shoulder or my ear LOL LOL that one smarts.. LOL but the smaller ones use plastic tubing (hose) and they don't come with any ground wire on the hose other than the wall plug ground..


A quick and easy fix for the big vac.systems is a gound wire( bear copper wire) around the hose to a cold water pipe/conduit or the ground of a outlet box.. (the little screw that holds on the wall cover plate on will do the trick) it can be the one you plug your router table into ,with a wire connector to the copper wire and the cover plate screw..

**** JUST A ADD ON NOTE ****

I should have said push some of the copper wire in side the pipe 
( plastic/rubber/steel) then cover the hole with some tape..a coil should do the trick I think..


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## Birdflu (Nov 6, 2007)

woodchip7 said:


> Static would not be a problem if using metal ducting. Plastic or PVC on the other hand does produce static. Shop vacs are notorius for static due to the plastic hoses.


 Yes and No.

Metal ducting offers more alternatives in grounding over plastic, PVC, rubber etc.

Metal ducting when not properly grounded offers no advantage whatsoever. The issue is not the material to use, but the ground provided for the entire  vacuum system.

Additionally, metal over other flexible hosing has it's limitations especially where portability is concerned. FWIW

Additional information can be found at the IEEE, UL or CSA web sites.


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