# Bowl Blank - what to do ?



## ebill (Jan 17, 2009)

- I have a red elm bowl blank (apx 7" dia x 2.5" thick) now 3 yrs since rough turning. It has some unusual 'burl' like characters. 

- my wife bought it over a year ago from a guy who included a bit of description with it. He noted: " _if it were me, I would turn this into a vessel keeping the burl on top instead of turning it away_". 

- I have stared at this blank off and on for quite some time now and I cannot figure out a shape that would accomplish what he noted. Seems that any time I would touch the blank with a tool to shape it, it would turn away some of the burl characters either on the edge or the center of the bowl "top". 

- anyone have any ideas for a shape other than a generic type bowl to make from this very nice looking blank ? 

- ebill


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Perhaps take a 1/2-5/8" slice off of the top and use that as a lid. dish out the bottom portion. YOu do have some excellent character in that block of wood. Don't blame you for wanting to maximize it...


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

I have been turning bowls for a long time. I agree with Bill and that is exactly what I would do if the blank were mine. I would cut off about 1" to 1 1/2" off the top and make a lidded bowl. If you have any hollowing equipment you could make a hollow form vase out of it also. Small opening in the top then hollow to about 1/8" to 1/4" thick walls.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

I like the lidded bowl idea, that was my first thought when I saw the blank.

I wonder if you couldn't take a piece off for the lid, then use a curved parting tool to remove a fairly large piece from the inside of the bowl, which in turn you could make another bowl from. Two for the price of one.


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Nice piece of wood. It will make a very nice lidded bowl.


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## ebill (Jan 17, 2009)

Shop guy said:


> Nice piece of wood. It will make a very nice lidded bowl.



- ok, so a lidded bowl seems to be the early consensus. I found the pic below which appears to demonstrate the idea as I understand what you are all saying. 

- NB: I don't find this bowl/box particularly attractive. But it does show I could do some light turning to rough shape the top/bottom before heading over to the band saw to slice the 'lid' off. 

- i've not turned a lidded bowl before but this piece of wood seems a good reason to try one. 

- ebill


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## Moz (Nov 13, 2015)

Please don't put a kludgy knob on it.

I see a a slight rabbet (?) on the bottom of the lid to grasp and lift off. the The pattern in that flat deserves full visual impact.
















~M


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

ebill said:


> - ok, so a lidded bowl seems to be the early consensus. I found the pic below which appears to demonstrate the idea as I understand what you are all saying.
> 
> - NB: I don't find this bowl/box particularly attractive.
> 
> - ebill


I always think that using the same wood for the lid and bowl looks better. It appears not to be the case here. And as for that kludgy knob...sheesh!


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

cocobolo1 said:


> I like the lidded bowl idea, that was my first thought when I saw the blank.
> 
> I wonder if you couldn't take a piece off for the lid, then use a curved parting tool to remove a fairly large piece from the inside of the bowl, which in turn you could make another bowl from. Two for the price of one.


Keith I would not even think about using a curve parting tool to cut out a extra bowl. That is a accident waiting to happen. Just ask my buddy who had to have 32 stitches to close up his hand when a parting to broke trying that very thing. They make tools to core bowls. Besides with a second bowl cored out of a 7" blank would leave you with a 3" or so bowl when finish.:grin: Not much good for anything. I have cored many bowls and usually don't core any blanks less than 11" or so inch in diameter. That usually yields a 8" bowl or so. 

All in all I would make a lidded bowl and put a walnut or ebony knob on it.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

+1 Ebony!!!


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

BernieW said:


> Keith I would not even think about using a curve parting tool to cut out a extra bowl. That is a accident waiting to happen. Just ask my buddy who had to have 32 stitches to close up his hand when a parting to broke trying that very thing. They make tools to core bowls. Besides with a second bowl cored out of a 7" blank would leave you with a 3" or so bowl when finish.:grin: Not much good for anything. I have cored many bowls and usually don't core any blanks less than 11" or so inch in diameter. That usually yields a 8" bowl or so.
> 
> All in all I would make a lidded bowl and put a walnut or ebony knob on it.


Sorry for the short delay in replying Bernie...just got back from a trip to Calgary.

What happened to your buddy? Did the tool itself actually break? I'm always interested in learning about things like this. How on earth did that happen?

Was it a cheap tool? Poor steel...any idea?


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

Yes the tool shattered. Thankfully he had a face shield on because he said a couple of pieces would have hit him in the face. It flipped the tool right out of hands and sliced from his knuckles up his arm. I saw some of the pieces that shattered. They were like razor blades. He said he knew better than to use the wrong tool but thought he could do it quickly and easily. It was a Sorby high dollar parting tool and as I said not for coring. Not much steel there when you compare to the oneway coring knives or the MacNaughton system. It is like using a roughing gouge to do a bowl. Another no-no.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

BernieW said:


> Yes the tool shattered. Thankfully he had a face shield on because he said a couple of pieces would have hit him in the face. It flipped the tool right out of hands and sliced from his knuckles up his arm. I saw some of the pieces that shattered. They were like razor blades. He said he knew better than to use the wrong tool but thought he could do it quickly and easily. It was a Sorby high dollar parting tool and as I said not for coring. Not much steel there when you compare to the oneway coring knives or the MacNaughton system. It is like using a roughing gouge to do a bowl. Another no-no.


And here I always thought Sorby was a good brand. It sounds like the steel must have been too brittle, Perhaps overhardened? 

Bernie, thank you very much for the information.


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

Your welcome. I have taught a few people how to turn in my shop and I always stress to my students "safety first" and "use the proper tool for the job".


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