# Paddle switch



## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

I just ordered this switch - too many 'interesting' experiences - for my table saw: H8243 - 110/220V Paddle On/Off Switch

Is this a good switch? Any experience using it as a safety shut of. Regardless, it HAS to be better then the one that you have to grope for on the front of my JET JTS-10

Dave W


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I agree, Dave.

On my new saw, I had to move the switch slightly as it was too easy to turn off the saw..... All I have to do is move my leg a fraction and push against the switch.

I, now, would not use a saw that I had to release the timber and fumble under the saw to find the switch


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

I couldn't see the image big enough to tell but if it is like the ones from Rockler and MLCS you shouldn't have any safety or usage issues


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

H8243 110/220V Paddle On/Off Switch 

Marco: It's a Grizzly product, similar to the Rockler and MLCS.

Cassandra


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Cassandra said:


> H8243 110/220V Paddle On/Off Switch
> 
> Marco: It's a Grizzly product, similar to the Rockler and MLCS.
> 
> Cassandra


My apologies on the photo

Cassandra - thanks for adding the link. Being very new here didn't realize the site program didn't fix the photos as some will. Wont happen again


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

My preference is one of these. Foot Switch - Save on this Momentary Power Foot Switch 
You step on it, you have power. You remove your foot, power is off. Don't have to reach for anything. 
They have another model, that you step on to turn on, then have to step on again to turn off. I much prefer the other one, if you get startled, you step back, and power off, much safer to my mind.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

JOAT said:


> My preference is one of these. Foot Switch - Save on this Momentary Power Foot Switch
> You step on it, you have power. You remove your foot, power is off. Don't have to reach for anything.
> They have another model, that you step on to turn on, then have to step on again to turn off. I much prefer the other one, if you get startled, you step back, and power off, much safer to my mind.


I'm considering a 'deadman' type for both the radial arm saw and the router table. I tend to move around some using the table saw while keeping my ten complete fingers away from that 5000 rpm blade. 

One consideration with Harbor Freight stuff is make sure that the amp ratings are within the tool requirement.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Looks like you have to have some sort of box to mount it in. I have the Rocker switch which has a box covering the back. It is really the only way to go for a table saw. I also have one on my router. Good for any tool where you'd rather not let go of the piece if a problem occurs. Sure beats fumbling for a switch!


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

DesertRatTom said:


> Looks like you have to have some sort of box to mount it in. I have the Rocker switch which has a box covering the back. It is really the only way to go for a table saw. I also have one on my router. Good for any tool where you'd rather not let go of the piece if a problem occurs. Sure beats fumbling for a switch!


The Grizzly switch fits a standard electrical box, steel or plastic. 

That $25 Rockler switch looks nice and probably works well on smaller tools but is rated at only 15 amps. The $15 Grizzly is 35 amps/110VAC and will easily handle the 2Hp motor on my saw


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Dave - That's a good switch, I put one on my Ridgid table saw. You didn't say which saw you have but neutral (or both legs of the 220) must run through that switch for it to work correctly. It is what is called a "magnetic" switch. That simply means there is a latching relay internally which keeps the saw powered on. The biggest advantage is that if power is lost while running, it won't automatically start running when power is restored. 
You can preview the installation instructions by clicking the "Manual - PDF" button on the Grizzly website.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

jschaben said:


> Hi Dave - That's a good switch, I put one on my Ridgid table saw. You didn't say which saw you have but neutral (or both legs of the 220) must run through that switch for it to work correctly. It is what is called a "magnetic" switch. That simply means there is a latching relay internally which keeps the saw powered on. The biggest advantage is that if power is lost while running, it won't automatically start running when power is restored.
> You can preview the installation instructions by clicking the "Manual - PDF" button on the Grizzly website.


John - I've already pulled the instruction sheet - and have to say that I'm not really impressed with their translated from Chinese wiring diagram, but have seen worse. I am currently running my saw wired for 110VAC as I only have one 220 source and my JET 650 dust control system is on that - but might just have to sneak in another outlet.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Hi Dave - That's a good switch, I put one on my Ridgid table saw. You didn't say which saw you have but neutral (or both legs of the 220) must run through that switch for it to work correctly. It is what is called a "magnetic" switch. That simply means there is a latching relay internally which keeps the saw powered on. The biggest advantage is that if power is lost while running, it won't automatically start running when power is restored.
> You can preview the installation instructions by clicking the "Manual - PDF" button on the Grizzly website.


John, are you sure? It is not advertised as magnetic. Grizzly does carry magnetic switches, but I am pretty sure that one is not.


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## rayschimpf (Sep 30, 2009)

Grizzly maks two versions of this switch I used the heaver duity one on my 3 HP band saw it works great.

Ray


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

This is the actual manufacturer's data sheet for a Kedu HY56;
http://www.kedu.cn/PDF/2/p59-60(hy56).pdf 

and their home page;
Untitled Document (yep, it really is a link)

From the descriptive lit on that home page, it sounds like it's a magnetic switch tho Grizzly doesn't advertise it as such. We'll see what it really is in a couple of days when it arrives from Grizzly/Missouri


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I just went and checked, I have the 8241 which is the 120V version, not rated for 220 so I can't really be sure.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

The switch arrived - not a bad looking product, but ------ it is NOT a magnetic switch. I actually had to take the mounting bracket off to fit it into the existing JET table saw box ---- then came the fun of finding a couple of springs that did their escape 'action'. It works nicely with the temporary Leeson 1Hp motor that is replacing the JET motor while I try to find a replacement cooling fan.

A note about that Leeson motor - it came off a recently deceased 35-40 year old Craftsman air compressor. It starts much harder then the JET and while less advertised Hp seems to be stronger.


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