# How do I cut 3 ½” dia hole?



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

I need a 3 ½” hole and I was wondering what the best way to do that would be with a router.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Amazon.com: Jasper 400J Model 400 Router Circle Cutting Jig: Home Improvement

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JohnnyB60 said:


> I need a 3 ½” hole and I was wondering what the best way to do that would be with a router.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

You can also use a hole saw.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Amazon.com: Jasper 400J Model 400 Router Circle Cutting Jig: Home Improvement
> 
> ==


Wow that pretty neat, I've never seen anything like that.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

jlord said:


> You can also use a hole saw.


Hi James, that was my original plan, but then i realized that I don't have one that size.

I need to cut a hole in a 2-1/4" x 6 x 6 block.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Hi James, that was my original plan, but then i realized that I don't have one that size.
> 
> I need to cut a hole in a 2-1/4" x 6 x 6 block.


Is your block 2-1/4" thick? That's petty deep to cut with a router bit. I would use a forstner bit instead


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

easy with the right bit

1 pc 1/2" SH 3" Blade Extra Long Straight Router Bit | eBay


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

I was mistaken about the thickness, I just measured it and it’s actually 1 7/8”.

I only have one bit that long and its not in too good a shape.

I really wanted to do this today and didn’t want to wait a week for a bit, but I may just have to go to Lowes and buy a 3 ½” hole saw. I wonder if I can sharpen this bit enough to finish the job.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> easy with the right bit
> 
> 1 pc 1/2" SH 3" Blade Extra Long Straight Router Bit | eBay


Wow I’m going to order that bit thanks, Jigs 

But in the meantime I need to do something.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Just in case anybody is curious, I’m trying to make a wedge spacer for my dust collection system. After I cut the hole I plan to cut the block into a wedge with my band saw.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just make you own out of the plywood/MDF stock drill a 1/4" hole in the block from both sides ,screw your router to some 1/4" MDF stock,put in a 1/4" bolt hole ,set the flat head bolt in place and get your ruler out and make the spot to cut out the hole,then just drop it in place and plunge from both sides of the block.

Easy stuff 

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JohnnyB60 said:


> Wow I’m going to order that bit thanks, Jigs
> 
> But in the meantime I need to do something.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

There's always your jigsaw, and a convex hand rasp to clean up the hole after you cut it.
That'd be my first choice...cheap and quick. "It ain't a piano".


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

*Ok enough of that – I’m buying a hole Saw*

 I cut a ½ the depth all the way around and then the router motor dropped out of the base and busted the bit. I’m afraid to look at the base because I’m pretty sure it did some damage. This makes two brand new expensive bits broken today. The other bit shown in blue fell of the table and hit the concrete floor shattering the tip. 

If I were a drinking man, I'd have a pretty tall drink about now. :no:


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

*I'm Not using the Router Table untill I get a Lift*

Well I’m a little upset right now. My project was a disaster and my garage/shop is covered with MDF dust. I have two broken bits that I only just bought this month.
Luckily my router base is still good, it’s nicked up and the router motor sticks on the side where its chewed up although I might be able to sand or file them smooth. All I have to say is thank god for the switch on the bottom because I could have been seriously hurt if it did not shut off when it hit the shelf below.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

*gave it one more try*

Well I gave it one more try with the broken router bit. I was afraid to go all the way on the last cut because I didn’t have any support, I used a knife and a trim bit to finish.

















My hole is a little too tight and I’m looking for a way to open it up a little. I wish I would have checked the diameter before I cut the angle, but oh well.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Amazon.com: Nicholson Half-Round 4-in-Hand Rasp and File, Rasp Cut, American Pattern, 8" Length: Industrial & Scientific


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

DaninVan said:


> Amazon.com: Nicholson Half-Round 4-in-Hand Rasp and File, Rasp Cut, American Pattern, 8" Length: Industrial & Scientific


Thanks Dan,

I measured the wrong fitting by mistake and the hole actually needs to be 4 ¼”, not 3 ½” like I thought. 

I decided to make a plywood circle to use as a guide, which is what I should have used in the first place. The only problem I have now is that broken 3/8" router bit is not long enough to cut the full depth and the ½” shank will not go past the guide. I wish I had a trim bit with a top mounted bearing to finish it off.










This is all I have left one broken unusable 3/4" bit and a old worn 1/2" bit


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Johnny, seriously, you don't need any more expensive tools/accessories. just jigsaw it out to within a 1/16" of the line and clean up the hole with a file or rasp and sandpaper. You must be into this for at least $40 in bits by now? 
If you had a drum sanding accessory for your drill, that'd work too...
_"It's tough to remember that your original intent was to drain the swamp, when you're up to your ass in alligators"_


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> ...
> _"It's tough to remember that your original intent was to drain the swamp, when you're up to your ass in alligators"_


I laughed out loud when I read this!


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

DaninVan said:


> Johnny, seriously, you don't need any more expensive tools/accessories. just jigsaw it out to within a 1/16" of the line and clean up the hole with a file or rasp and sandpaper. You must be into this for at least $40 in bits by now?
> If you had a drum sanding accessory for your drill, that'd work too...
> _"It's tough to remember that your original intent was to drain the swamp, when you're up to your ass in alligators"_


I know your right, but I'm going to try the old worn bit just one more try. I just might need a couple of more nails to hold the piece.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Well I finally got it finished using the old worn bit. I almost threw the thing away last week but decided to keep it to see if I could sharpen it.

I now know that I have two problems that I need to address with my new router table. 

One being that I need to remember to place the bit in the drawer and NOT leave them on the table. I also need to put a rubber mat on the floor in front of the table just in case I forget. 

Second is that I need to put a safety block or a lift under the router motor just in case it drops again. it has dropped a few times before when I was trying to change the bit. 

This time I could not raise the bit with the piece above and did not want to chance losing my alignment by moving the piece, so I did a really stupid thing by trying to raise it up with the adjustment knob while it was running. It went up ok but when I tried to lock it, it slipped and fell completely out of the base. The fine adjustment gear could not hold it alone.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

That's Great
I would suggest you go out and buy a Lottie ticket  you have been very lucky not to have got hurt on that project.
You have broken most of the golden rules, how to use the router safe 

I will say I can see 8 of them right off the bat ,real no no's how to use the router.

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JohnnyB60 said:


> Well I finally got it finished using the old worn bit. I almost threw the thing away last week but decided to keep it to see if I could sharpen it.
> 
> I now know that I have two problems that I need to address with my new router table.
> 
> ...


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

I may have to give up on this router stuff, because it hasn’t been fun. So far I’ve spent a lot money on a MLCS Router table, router and bits, plus spent too much time building a cabinet and I’m not happy with any of it. I’ve had issues with both the table and the Router. The bits are expensive and break easy. I’ve never had problems with my other tools like my table saw, jointer or planer.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

_"I just might need a couple of more nails to hold the piece"_

Stock Illustrations of putting the last nail in the coffin k4511930 - Search Clipart, Illustration Posters, Drawings and Vector EPS Graphics Images - k4511930.jpg


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Jasper Circle Jig 200 & 400 Combo Pack 

Jasper Circle Jig 200 & 400 Combo Pack - YouTube

Woodworking - Cutting Circles on the Router Table

Woodworking - Cutting Circles on the Router Table - YouTube


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

JohnnyB60 said:


>


You do not want the work between the fence and bit like that where the router can grab the work.

Next time make yourself a circle jig. Mark your router mounting pattern on a piece of scrap 1/2" thick, drill and counter sink for mounting screws, mark the center (I like a V-groove bit which ends in a sharp point) with the router turned off, drill pivot holes (I like to use a piece of 1/8" drill rod as a pivot, like in the Jasper jigs) at the desired radii away from the center (you can have a couple of diverging lines for circles close in diameter) keeping in mind that holes will be 1/2 bit diameter bigger and discs 1/2 bit diameter smaller, and drill a hole in the middle for bit clearance.

When you need a new diameter just add another hole.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Drew Eckhardt said:


> You do not want the work between the fence and bit like that where the router can grab the work.
> 
> Next time make yourself a circle jig. Mark your router mounting pattern on a piece of scrap 1/2" thick, drill and counter sink for mounting screws, mark the center (I like a V-groove bit which ends in a sharp point) with the router turned off, drill pivot holes (I like to use a piece of 1/8" drill rod) at the desired radii away from the center (you can have a couple of diverging lines for circles close in diameter) keeping in mind that holes will be 1/2 bit diameter bigger and discs 1/2 bit diameter smaller, and drill a hole in the middle for bit clearance.
> 
> When you need a new diameter just add another hole.


Thanks Drew, I had a feeling that I might be doing it wrong but I didn’t know how else to do a small circle on a small piece of wood. I was just thinking that after all this I really didn’t have an answer to how to properly do it. I should of went to YouTube right off because there was a lot of info there and especially in the audio profession where they do this all the time installing speakers.

I clamped boards around to the table to keep the piece from pulling forward and cutting through my piece. The only real problem I had besides the bit missing one cutter and not being long enough, was that I cut the plywood guide with a scroll saw and it wasn’t quite round and had some rough spots that hung up on the fence as I was turning it.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Johnny, I am amazed that you still have fingers! It will benefit you to think-out this type of project more prior to diving in. You will save money and possibly fingers. Quite possibly your disappointment is that you're using a tool (Router) that is running at quite possibly 10 times the speed of the other tools you've used. This is why it can be very dangerous (and deadly) when young drivers get behing the wheel of a car with serious muscle. Speed and torque can surprise one not accustomed to it. Personally, if I were needing to complete a project as you've shown - the thick composite of wood would be at least 12" square - then the 6" square can be easily centered on the hole. Working a piece of wood that close to an edge is asking for trouble - you were very lucky!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Johnny

The safe way is with the Jasper and a plunge router, you can use the router table but a lift is needed, John's N. is a great way but it has a small down fall you can cut small cir.with it..the same thing is true with the one that MLCS sales it has the same down fall,I made one that will do it all with router table, see the link below and it is a safe way..

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/30028-jasper-cir-jig.html

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/11854-circle-jig.html

Router Forums - View Single Post - Circle Jig


Uploads is a great way to get tips on the forum..I have posted 22,000 of them , some will help and some will not 

==


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Well I don’t think I’ll be doing any more small circles and if I do, I’ll order one of those Jasper Circle Jigs and use a plunge router. 

I do have one more project that I need to cut a larger circle and that is a cyclone separator for my Dust collection system, but I’m definitely going to build one of those large circle jigs before doing that.

I was hoping that I could use this new router table for everything, but now I’m beginning to think that I’ve wasted my money buying it. So far everything I’ve used it for could have been done with something else. 

I’m now short some bits, but I have a better feel for what type of bits that I need. It looks like I have a lot of useless bits. :sarcastic:


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Johnny, You will find plenty of applications where the Router Table will be ideal and with the exception of broken and damaged bits - hang on to them and you'll eventually find a need for them. I think you're on your way to a successful venture - just please be safe above everything else in any project. Almost any woodworking project can be done in several ways with a variety of tools - there is not necessarily a right way and a wrong way - but try to use the tools and skill set appropriate for your project. You're on a very steep learning curve. Be observant of what works best (and worse) for you and keep those tidbits of knowledge to build your experience on! Good Luck,


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Johnny

I like the 200 Jasper it will do 90% of the cir.I do..
"Cuts 256 different circles from 2-1/4 to 18-3/16-inches in diameter"
Amazon.com: Jasper 200J Model 200 Circle Cutting Jig for Plunge Router: Home Improvement

But a router table is must have item in the wood shop just like the plunge router.
Once you have the router table you can just pop out the router with the mounting on it use it just like a plunge router that it is..no need to just pull just the motor out.

Once you put the brass guide in place on your router or mounting plate no need to screw the Jasper to the router just drop in place and cut the cir.out.

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JohnnyB60 said:


> Well I don’t think I’ll be doing any more small circles and if I do, I’ll order one of those Jasper Circle Jigs and use a plunge router.
> 
> I do have one more project that I need to cut a larger circle and that is a cyclone separator for my Dust collection system, but I’m definitely going to build one of those large circle jigs before doing that.
> 
> ...


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Johnny
> 
> I like the 200 Jasper it will do 90% of the cir.I do..
> "Cuts 256 different circles from 2-1/4 to 18-3/16-inches in diameter"
> ...


I am definitely going to buy one of those circle jigs, I just can’t decide if I want the Jasper 400J or the 200J. 

I need to start taking notes about concerns I have of the MLCS router table. I can’t think of them all at the moment, but one concern is how easily the insert plate pops up when the fence is not holding it down. I think that it’s kind of dangerous, but nothing came to fasten it down except some magnets. I will probably start a thread on the table so that I'm sure I'm using it correctly.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Johnny

If you are not to sure just one that will do it all
Amazon.com: Jasper Circle Jig Model 240: Home Improvement

MLCS table, that's the best part of the table,with a 12 lb to 15 lb router hanging from it will never jump out of the table but you can get some clips that will hold it down in your case when you push your router up from under the table, you would just need to put in some longer screws in the corners,but I will say you can make your easy with some plastic..just need to drill and tap them out ..
Amazon.com: Kreg PRS3040 Precision Router Table Insert Plate Levelers: Home Improvement



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JohnnyB60 said:


> I am definitely going to buy one of those circle jigs, I just can’t decide if I want the Jasper 400J or the 200J.
> 
> I need to start taking notes about concerns I have of the MLCS router table. I can’t think of them all at the moment, but one concern is how easily the insert plate pops up when the fence is not holding it down. I think that it’s kind of dangerous, but nothing came to fasten it down except some magnets. I will probably start a thread on the table so that I'm sure I'm using it correctly.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Hi Johnny...Something I can't quite grasp is why does your router keep dropping out of the base? 

Like BJ I use the Jasper circle jigs and bought the combo 200 & 400 combo kit. I ordered it directly from Jasper because it was cheaper and was in my mailbox the next day. I have my 200J attached to a PC 892 with the plunge base as a permanent set-up and couldn't be better satisfied with the precision of the hole sizes using the 200J jig.

Another solution to your problem would have been to cut the holes in 3/4 or 1/2 MDF or whatever then glued them together to obtain the required thickness as opposed to suffering headaches with one thick piece.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> Hi Johnny...Something I can't quite grasp is why does your router keep dropping out of the base?
> 
> Like BJ I use the Jasper circle jigs and bought the combo 200 & 400 combo kit. I ordered it directly from Jasper because it was cheaper and was in my mailbox the next day. I have my 200J attached to a PC 892 with the plunge base as a permanent set-up and couldn't be better satisfied with the precision of the hole sizes using the 200J jig.
> 
> Another solution to your problem would have been to cut the holes in 3/4 or 1/2 MDF or whatever then glued them together to obtain the required thickness as opposed to suffering headaches with one thick piece.


Hi Ken, well I don’t think it’s a defect or anything like that, but I really don’t know for sure. I’ll have to compare the one I bought from you to see if there is something a miss. 

When I change the bit, I use my hand to raise it up and down while squeezing the adjustment lever to quicken the process. Then I move it with my hand to get it into position and when I’m close, I let go of the fine adjustment lock and use the knob below or the nut driver from above to fine adjust. It sometimes drops after removing my hand,. I think sometimes the gear doesn’t fully engage with the slot when letting go of the lever and it just holds for a second until I start to close the big lock leaver then it drops.

I don’t know why it dropped while it was running and I was using the knob to raze it up, because the gear had to be engaged while it was moving upward. I’m just glad it didn’t drop while my hand was on the knob. The on/off switch on the bottom really helped by shutting it off and I only wished I had a block or something under it so it would have shut off before completely braking free of the base and damaging the bit. 

I shudder to think what would have happened if the switch didn’t hit bottom and shut off. I have not installed an outside switch yet and would have had to pull the plug. I was just going to use a simple toggle switch, but now I’m going to invest in a large push type switch so I can use my body to push it off if my hands are full.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Hi Johnny...The only two reasons I can see for the router to drop is it is a Craftsman Router or you are forgetting to lock the motor after making your adjustments. I forgot to lock my motor the other day while cutting a 1/4 inch slot in a piece of Oak and the router slowly worked down and I had one of the nicest slanting slots you can imagine.

Not all Craftsman routers are subject to dropping while adjusting but I went through 4 different Craftsman routers before I got my money back and bought a Milwaukee 5616 for my table. Of course I now have the PC 892 in my table and the Milwaukee has been relegated to my ski. 

Yes a paddle switch is the safest route for a router table to dramatically lower the risk of a serious injury. Just take your time, learn from your mistakes and in no time you will have most everything under control and once again be a happy camper.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> Hi Johnny...The only two reasons I can see for the router to drop is it is a Craftsman Router or you are forgetting to lock the motor after making your adjustments. I forgot to lock my motor the other day while cutting a 1/4 inch slot in a piece of Oak and the router slowly worked down and I had one of the nicest slanting slots you can imagine.
> 
> Not all Craftsman routers are subject to dropping while adjusting but I went through 4 different Craftsman routers before I got my money back and bought a Milwaukee 5616 for my table. Of course I now have the PC 892 in my table and the Milwaukee has been relegated to my ski.
> 
> Yes a paddle switch is the safest route for a router table to dramatically lower the risk of a serious injury. Just take your time, learn from your mistakes and in no time you will have most everything under control and once again be a happy camper.


Hi Ken,
I do have a Craftsman that does not hold for nothing, but I haven’t used it in a long time. It’s my PC 890 that’s dropping and never when I have the big lever locked. (Forgive me for the terminology, but I don’t know what its called) It only happens when I unlock the big leaver.


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## scotsman (Oct 17, 2011)

*circle cutting jig*

Hi There Bobj3

There is a uk router expert (Ron Fox) who has plans for adjustable router jig that cuts variable hole sizes less than the diameter of the base I constructed one and it works fine, you might like to check it out.

Sorry I cant send URL insufficient posts
Awe-Ra-Best
Jockeneese


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

jockaneese said:


> Hi There Bobj3
> 
> There is a uk router expert (Ron Fox) who has plans for adjustable router jig that cuts variable hole sizes less than the diameter of the base I constructed one and it works fine, you might like to check it out.
> 
> ...


Hi William, 
I know of Ron Fox and have watched some of his videos. I don’t think I’ve seen the one on circle jigs, but I have subscribed to his videos and should be easy to find. Thanks for the info


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Is this it?

Ron Fox's Routing Tips


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> Is this it?
> 
> Ron Fox's Routing Tips


Oh I've never seen that. I've watched some of his videos, but this is better. I still haven't found the circle cutting jig video


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## scotsman (Oct 17, 2011)

Hello Bobj3

I now have reached the majic number of post and have pleasure in posting the link for Ron Fox. Ron Fox's Routing Tips

Have a GOOD ON
Awe ra best
William


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Willian

I use the jig below from time to time for SMALL holes..

Trend Pivot Frame Jig - YouTube
Amazon.com: Trend PFJ/SET/1 Pivot Frame Jig Set: Home Improvement

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jockaneese said:


> Hello Bobj3
> 
> I now have reached the majic number of post and have pleasure in posting the link for Ron Fox. Ron Fox's Routing Tips
> 
> ...


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