# How to dress up columns



## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

I want to make a pine TV stand with vertical posts holding up the levels. I'd like to dress them up a bit and thought of putting a stopped cove in the edges like in the drawing. I tried it on a scrap and wasn't exactly pleased with the result... tearout etc. Has anyone got some tips they'd like to share?


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

If the tearout is at the right end of the cut (feeding left to right), start at the right end of the cut and climb cut the first inch or so and then go back to the other end and cut the whole length, and maybe take several smaller cuts.


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## PaulH (May 30, 2012)

TenGees said:


> I want to make a pine TV stand with vertical posts holding up the levels. I'd like to dress them up a bit and thought of putting a stopped cove in the edges like in the drawing. I tried it on a scrap and wasn't exactly pleased with the result... tearout etc. Has anyone got some tips they'd like to share?


With pine just go slowly , increasing depth on each pass. If problem is at end of each cut then use a forstner bit to cut clean edges.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Paying attention to the grain pattern on the material to be purchased is the beginning of the job. The pic cut direction will minimize or eliminate chipping, you can do a small test to prove, if the pine is too dry/brittle you can scalp the end cut 1st, remove the majority of the mat with a chisel, spoke shave or draw knife then run the router over it. 

If the mat is overly brittle maybe do it on the RT (instead of handheld with an attached fence) and apply pressure to the mat against the fence and positive stops will also limit tearout.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

A 45 deg miter bearing bit at progressively deeper settings for each pass to keep from chipping, will give you good results, if you just want a 45 deg bevel. Climb cutting a short distance at the opposite end before cutting the bulk of it will help too. I've made edges like this colonial signs and sign posts using this method with excellent results, but usually used a spoke shave at the ends to produce a lead in and lead out bevel longer than the curve produced by the miter bit. If you want the long lead in and out, cut the straight part of the bevel first, then just match the bevel angle as you use the spoke shave to make the desired lead in and lead out ends

Charley


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Paul I kinda like the minimalistic look . I can't find the guys site to save my life , but here's what he builds out of solid pine . I want to do something simular someday , but have differant heights on the shelves to accommodate differant components.

I think I'd prefer to have all the shelves flush with the posts to


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok found it hiding in my favorites . Thought I'd post this so you may get some ideas.
This guy does some nice work IMO 

Custom High-End Audio Stereo Racks, Amp Stands, Speaker Stands and Isolation Platforms at Timbernation


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Paul I kinda like the minimalistic look . I can't find the guys site to save my life , but here's what he builds out of solid pine . I want to do something simular someday , but have differant heights on the shelves to accommodate differant components.
> 
> I think I'd prefer to have all the shelves flush with the posts to


I usually do keep it simple but in my living room I have more ornate old tables etc. That's why I wanted to add a little something to spruce the project up.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

I like the look of a cove and it works fine except at the end of the cut. I tried doing it in a couple of passes and climbing on the end of the cut but there's no support at all on the table when at the end. I'm thinking I might have to try making a jig which will hold the piece at a 45 and support the end of the cut (Zero clearance style). I need 8 pieces for this project alone, so it might be worth making something up. Maybe cut a V groove in a 2 by 4 as the 'carrier' and then route through it, except near the ends. Easier for me to visualize than to verbalize.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Do as said about climb cutting the end the end first. If you are using a straight bit at 45* angle then it is easy to use a drill mounted sanding drum to touch the cut up.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Do as said about climb cutting the end the end first. If you are using a straight bit at 45* angle then it is easy to use a drill mounted sanding drum to touch the cut up.


I'm using a cove bit, Chuck. A straight bit might be easier but I like the cove. The end wouldn't be easy to touch up with a cove. The start and length comes out very nice on tests only the end is a problem. I'm going to try a jig and see if that helps, as soon as I get motivated


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

How are you doing the cove Paul, hand held or table and any jigs to keep the orientation right?


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

You can use a template like this to get the straight portion in the center and a transition at the ends.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> How are you doing the cove Paul, hand held or table and any jigs to keep the orientation right?


At first I used a table with the bit partly exposed and the part just flat against the fence but this doesn't leave the ends ideal. I moved the fence back and (for fun) tried to hold the part at 45 degrees - the starting point came out nice. There's no support at all for the wood though.

Like I tried to explain before, I'm going to cut a V along a 2 by 4. then lay the part in that V. Then route through the bottom of the 2x4 into the part. I figure if I get the setup right, I may be able to cut half my cut in one direction, turn the part and do the second half. This is all speculation of course. hahaha

I added a pic of what I was trying to explain.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

MEBCWD said:


> You can use a template like this to get the straight portion in the center and a transition at the ends.


Mike, I see that being useful in some cases but I want the end of the cuts to be round like the cove - if possible. So I'd just like to stop there rather than slide out.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Paul...since the start and middle are good, how about doing two "starts"...no climb cut...

Start the cut as you are doing now...go half way...turn the piece over and do another start to the middle.

A little investment in aligning the bit and fence so the two cuts meet in the middle would be worth the effort...

...just thinkin' while drinkin' coffee...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

TenGees said:


> At first I used a table with the bit partly exposed and the part just flat against the fence but this doesn't leave the ends ideal. I moved the fence back and (for fun) tried to hold the part at 45 degrees - the starting point came out nice. There's no support at all for the wood though.
> 
> Like I tried to explain before, I'm going to cut a V along a 2 by 4. then lay the part in that V. Then route through the bottom of the 2x4 into the part. I figure if I get the setup right, I may be able to cut half my cut in one direction, turn the part and do the second half. This is all speculation of course. hahaha
> 
> I added a pic of what I was trying to explain.


That sounds workable Paul. If the coves are equal in distance from the ends then I would use a stop block to start them with.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Nickp said:


> Start the cut as you are doing now...go half way...turn the piece over and do another start to the middle.


Nick, that's exactly what I was thinking, only with that 'carrier' jig. The 'start' turns out best when the work is at a 45 to the bit.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

It works even with out doing each end separately. I haven't gone very deep, I'd have to raise the bit in the chuck for that. The end is coming out pretty clean. I used stops as Chuck suggested but the part is loose in the jig. I'd like to have stops or a hold down in the jig. Might play with that once I cut the parts.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Great idea on the jig Paul . That looks really nice , and didn't require a cnc


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I was thinking to lock the jig down and just move the column on it. Maybe that would make a difference?


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

I moved the jig instead of the part. I just screwed stops into the jig for each of the two sizes of parts and put stops on the fence.

I finished the TV Stand and am pleased with the job. I have never been successful trying to stain pine dark. I wanted to match existing furniture. So I decided to try a new approach. I stained and varathaned like usual but only one coat of varathane. Then I did a coat of Polyshades to darken it. I figured if the wood is sealed already the Polyshades would darken the whole surface. It worked and I'm quite pleased with the outcome but the stuff is a beach to apply. If you have a run or drip, trying to fix it is a disaster. With clear poly it's easy. That stuff is probably easier to spray.

I usually use a lot of pocket holes but here they would show, so I doweled all the joints. The only screws are in the oak feet that hold the casters. I tapped those to accept the 5/16 threaded shafts on the casters. The glass doors were stolen from the old TV stand that was too small and had a four foot board laying on top.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Wow Paul that looks very sharp . Nice job


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Neat!!

HJ


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Thanks guys. I still have to organize the wires. I found a couple of pics of the dry-fit stage before I made the back and added the legs for the casters.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Paul I like it at the non stained stage too . You did one heck of a job there , and it sure beats the heck out of those ones from Ikea .
I want to build a computer desk someday , and may have to get some tips from you


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Great job on the ,Paul. Also good write up along the way on how you arrived at the solution. I think the drarkened finish looks cool, will have to try that.
Herb


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> Great job on the ,Paul. Also good write up along the way on how you arrived at the solution. I think the drarkened finish looks cool, will have to try that.
> Herb


The lighting is poor for a good picture in that corner but the pine looks like a fancier wood with that treatment. When I've tried to get a dark finish on pine before, it always turned out kinda 'zebra' looking. Where some of the grain takes too little stain and some takes too much. The only problem is (like I said) in brushing the Polyshades. If you go back, even when still fairly wet, the edges of the brush marks turn doubly dark. I ended up wiping a whole section off and doing it over.

I have an old pine wall unit in my rec room that has darkened even more with age. I'd like to make a few projects for that room with a darker finish too. I'll probably use this finish again. If you try it, Herb, please pass along any tips and observations.


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