# Bullnose Bit



## inkslinger (Jan 2, 2017)

I'm new here an I just bought my first router and it just happens to be a used one I won from Ebay a Bosch 1617 EVS fix/plunge kit I pick up for $123. I have been doing a lot of reading on routers .
I would like to get some bull nose bits for 1/4 , 1/2 and 3/4 inch wood and would like to know what size bit do I need to look at? The router only has one collet an it looks to be a 1/4 inch {only cause it has 4 1/4 inch bits in the case} I did order a 1/2 in collet for it just in case.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Hello and welcome to the router forum.
Stick with 1/2 shank bits when possible, Carbide tips 
Use the search bar, number articles on bits types and brands
Watch


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

The 1617 is one of the best routers ever. You can find half inch and metric collets for it just by googling. The Bosch tools website lists them and they can be ordered on Amazon. 

Try this video: 




The size you use depends on the look you're trying to produce. A roundover could be done in passes with a quarter round bit.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Here are some pictures of bullnose bits and what they can produce. Sometimes you might use several bits to produce an interesting or novel edge. Notice the subtle differences when you, say, use a half inch bullnose on a 3/4 edge, vs a 3/4 bit on a 3/4 
edge, or you can stack a small bullnose (a bead) above or below a larger one. Or do a second piece and glue it to the basic edge.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Oh yes, welcome, glad you could join in the festivities.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Welcome to the forum Ink. Keep in mind that bullnose bits must be used with either and edge guide or with a fence on a router table. When you set it the center of the bit's curve must be even with the guide or fence or behind them. It can't be in front of them. The easiest way to set one flush with a guide or fence is to use a round dowel in the curve and flush the dowel to the fence. Because of the issues with setting and using a bullnose many prefer to use a round over bit instead and rout from both sides.


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## inkslinger (Jan 2, 2017)

So in order to use a bull nose bit is on a table ? Not planning on one just yet. So maybe a round over bit , I can clamp down and flip it over right? 
Will just got my router from ups today I was amaze of it size, sure enough it only had a 1/4in collet was glad I order the 1/2in . I will post some pic's soon , it came with 4 1/4in bit's but don't know what they do, I took it apart and clean every thing an fire it up to make sure it work fine. Nice! Thanks for the info I've been looking at those utube's and doing some more reading .


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Any bit that doesn't have a bearing to guide it along an edge has to use some other method for guiding it. An edge guide or fence are good for straight lines. A template bushing or bearing guide will follow curves. The one exception to this is if you are free hand routing such as making a sign. That usually requires a little practice and not routing very deep.


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## inkslinger (Jan 2, 2017)

Here is the pic of my 1/4in bit's {where can one fine what these bit's will do?}


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Table: A simple table is really easy to make, and a really straight 2x4 can be used for a fence. A flat piece of good ply (glue it and clamp a same size piece of 3/4 inch MDF to the underside, make for an acceptable table. If you want to get fancy, you can buy a router plate to go into the table, but you will need some way to level it with the top of the table, which can be done with screws through the bottom (always pre drill MDF). But really, you can keep it very simple. 

On the fence, cut an opening in the 2x4 just large enough for the bit to fit. Be VERY fussy about straight. You can suspend the top between two saw horses. You could even find a nice second hand ordinary table and adapt that. 

A table is a much safer way to use a router, especially when you're just starting. 

Finally, sawdust is very nasty stuff. Inhaled fine sawdust stays in your lungs and some wood is carcinogenic. At the very minimum you MUST wear some sort of mask. Even with really good dust collection, I wear a medical style mask when working in my small shop. It is tempting not to, but I keep lots of them around ($6 for 50 masks at Harbor Freight). 

If you get at all serious about woodworking, Harbor Freight has a nice dust collection unit that is on sale now for $199 over the internet, $220 or so in-store. These seem to go on sale from time to time and I sure wish I'd gotten one years ago. I spent more than that piecing together a lousy system that I've since tossed out.

Anyway, this is a very satisfying hobby. There is something terrific about working with wood.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Oops, forgot to mention that the fixed base on your 1617 can be used as an under table mount. You can get a key that will let you adjust the height from above the table, a real convenience.

As you get going, ask lots of questions. Most of us love to be helpful and maybe we can save you some frustration and expense. Very good choice on the router kit.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Hi, one last thing, this links to a very long post about the 17 things that helped me get going on woodworking. It has been up for awhile, but it applies to your situation.

Router Forums - Search Results


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Ink the first bit is a roundnose bit. If you go through my uploads you'll find a photo of a mantle I made. I used this bit to make two stopped grooves in the face of each column.

2nd is a pattern bit. Pattern bits are made to follow a template pattern or a straight edge when the pattern or straight edge is on top of your work. It's similar but opposite to a flush trim bit where the bearing is at the bottom. With a flush trim bit the pattern is at the bottom.

3rd is an ogee bit it appears. It makes a decorative edge on lumber. Wood with square edges looks like lumber but when you use a router and make a profile it looks like woodworking.

4th is a round over bit. This is one of the most commonly used bits. Most edges look better if they are rounded over or profiled. The roundover bit can do two different jobs with two different bearings. If the guide bearing is the same size as the smallest end of the curve it will roundover. If the bearing is smaller than the bottom of the cure it can make a profile with 2 fillets (vertical flats).

If you check through some of the online bit makers catalogs they include a picture of what the bit does. Amana is one for sure and I think Freud also has that. You can learn a lot just by going through those catalogs and looking at the bits and seeing what profiles they make.


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## inkslinger (Jan 2, 2017)

I'm waiting on my 1/2 in collet in the mail , but bought my first of many Bosch 3-Piece Carbide Tipped Downshear Plywood Set Shank from Lowe's . My first project is a Bench with 2 shelves , now with the bit do I only need to go is 1/8th inch deep top/bottom {3/4in MDF board with 2x 3/4in dividers}? I was thinking of doing the dado first than make my cut 20x56 so that both top an bottom will line up for the divider's to fit then I can cut the sides to fit. What do think.


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