# My Frankenstein router table build



## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Sorry folks, this is just a tease so there is no build yet BUT I have most of the critical parts for my table. It's been raining quite a bit but things look like they are clearing up and hope to get started soon. That gives me time to tweak a thing or two.

You can see some of the parts I'm going to use and some of you may guess my design based on them. I will say that the top is a cubicle table top 24" x 42" x 1 3/16" thick and it will be cut down to 24 x 32". Actually 24 x 32 is the finished size after being trimmed with some oak so that their will be no raw edges.

Also is a shot of some 80/20 extrusion that is 30mm x 30mm (about 1 3/16" x 1 3/16") that was left over from an old work project. Not sure what I'm going to do with it, but I have a small stack of it that I would like to maybe use as a fence.

(oh yeah, it was dark outside when I took the pics so sorry for the quality of them)


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## jerryc (Nov 27, 2007)

Hi Noob,

Can't wait to see the router table. Just one thought that you might like to consider. I have not followed the normal ideas about working height. Pat Warner advocated a much higher table. His idea was you often want to see the cutting action in the same way a sewing machine user does

I followed his advice and set mine to the same height as my bandsaw table. The advantage was I can use either as an outfeed table for the other machine. Hope you follow that awkward sentence.

By the way, stop boasting about the rain. Here in my part of Oz we have had thirteen years of drought. I dare not spit in case it causes a stampede for water.

Jerry


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi noob,
it seems that half the challenge in making any project can be locating and acquiring the necessary hardware. it looks like you have a definite plan. 

if it were mine (and its not) i would put the lexan on a shelf and buy a router plate insert. the removable rings would be very helpful and it would already have the cutter hole cut with the ability to add the pc guides> just my humble opinion


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Paulo looks like you have a good start, I agree with Levon regarding the insert. The hardest part to any project is getting started the next hardest is getting done, trust me I know.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Will be keeping close tabs on this post seeing I am about to build a router table in my table saw extension table.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

I'm calling it the "Frankenstein" because it's made from a hodge-podge of parts and is an unorthodox build. I wasn't sure if I should post this thread until I was done in case I screw up, but oh well, I'll jump in with both feet and you guys (and gals) may have some suggestions to improve the design. 

Originally I drew it up with 1" aluminum angle, but I only had some 1 1/2" angle in the garage so I have to tweak some dimensions before I start cutting. What makes this one a bit different is that I am using a 3/8-16 all thread so that I can make adjustments to the fence. This way I should be able to make fine adjustments. But I'm not going to settle for counting how many turns I make (1 full revolution is 1/16 inch), I'm going to attach a digital caliper to it. This way I should be able to move the fence to the bit as needed, zero it out, then if I need to move 1/2" I shouldn't have too much problem doing that.

Also what makes it a bit different is that instead of a purchased router lift, I'm using the design from the z=axis from the CNC build at Build Your CNC LINK It is made with 3/4" MDF, aluminum angle, and roller skate bearings. A picture is worth a thousand words so here are some screenshots of what I've designed so far.

Oh yeah, one last thing, I should be able to move the bit above the table top to change it. However it also has a tilt top. Not sure if I should use a tilt top for easy access since the router isn't attached to it though...


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

It seems to me that having to adjust the fence from the back would be a PITA.


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## sometimewoodworker (Feb 13, 2009)

AxlMyk said:


> It seems to me that having to adjust the fence from the back would be a PITA.


Why?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Paulo, I know that you will end up with the most space age table under the sun, however, I must tell you that as Mike has intimated, the results you achieve will be no better but take far longer than a simple table like the Oakpark one. I've told the story in the past about the simple Triton table that I used to have, it was very basic but produced some of my best projects. I sold it after falling in love and buying a cast steel and Aluminium one which came with a very high tech looking fence and all manner of accessories. It was at this point in my career that projects started to deteriorate and it was some time before I realised that it was the complex table, not early senility that was the cause. This led to discarding the high tech fence and making this simple one.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

jerryc
Good advice, I plan on making it a comfortable working height because I don't want to be hunched over trying to see what I'm doing and ending up with an aching back.

levon
As you can see from the screenshot, the router isn't going to be attached to the router insert plate (whatever you want to call it). It'll only be about 5"-6" square and will make different ones with different hole cutouts.

AxlMyk
You might be right, and I would like any constructive criticism that would improve the design. I saw the Incra Ultra at Rockler one day and loved it, but can't justify the cost of it:










So I decided to try and find some way to make an adjustable fence with some kind of repeatability to it. The t-slot extrusion fits inside the miter slot an has about 1/64" of play. Instead of the t-slot, I might cut up a solid miter bar that's made for the t-slot.

A different route I was considered was a T-square fence like Kreg is using: 









I debated on whether I should make the fence parallel with the long side of the table or the short side. I noticed Incra users typically have there fence parallel with the short side of the table, but Kreg has there fence parallel with the long side of the table. 

Copying the design-intent of the Kreg would probably be easier. Just mount a t-slot extrusion to the edge of the table-top and then make a T-square style fence. I know that since the bit is round, you don't have to be parallel to it, but I've seen the vids of it on Youtube and it looks like a good design.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Thanks for the advice harrysin, I respect what you have to say because it seems you and a few others are the "elders" on this board. I say that not in relation to age, but more in line as a "sage".

That said, I know that nobody's first table will be there last and maybe I should start off with one a little simpler. Not sure exactly what kind of projects I'll be building to be honest. Part of it is the challenge, and part of it is being frugal or not having the money to buy the high-dollar fences. 

I will use the lift though as a proof-of-concept because I'd like to build a CNC some time in the future.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Paulo, I know that you will end up with the most space age table under the sun, however, I must tell you that as Mike has intimated, the results you achieve will be no better but take far longer than a simple table like the Oakpark one. I've told the story in the past about the simple Triton table that I used to have, it was very basic but produced some of my best projects. I sold it after falling in love and buying a cast steel and Aluminium one which came with a very high tech looking fence and all manner of accessories. It was at this point in my career that projects started to deteriorate and it was some time before I realised that it was the complex table, not early senility that was the cause. This led to discarding the high tech fence and making this simple one.




hi Harry,

as a beginner talking to a very wise woodworker, i agree with you fully. it seems that when you get more complicated, there is far more room for error and things can go wrong so easily. and the main thing i see with complicated tools is they just dont seem to work as well. i have seen many times when i buy some new tool, that it doesnt make things simpler or easier like i thought. you gave great advice in your words!


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

The Incra Ultra does look great, but best of all it works really well, and results are repeatable. The Jessem router lift makes adjustments and tool changes so easy. The best tools often make for quality projects without the problems. I have replaced my Incra right angle sled's multi-ply feet with a long pair of really slippy nylon feet. So much better. Tapped into the business ends
of the feet is a long length of nylon bar that has sacrificial strips of MDF, held with double sided tape. These reduce the size and waste of backing strips that I was getting through.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I bought an Incra universal jig and love it. Very accurate, and repeatable. $100
When I make box joints with it they are so tight sometimes that I worry about splitting the wood
when I put the box together.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Noob said:


> I debated on whether I should make the fence parallel with the long side of the table or the short side. I noticed Incra users typically have there fence parallel with the short side of the table, but Kreg has there fence parallel with the long side of the table.


I put T-tracks in my table so I can mount the fence in the back, or on the side. Works well.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

AxlMyk said:


> I bought an Incra universal jig and love it. Very accurate, and repeatable. $100
> When I make box joints with it they are so tight sometimes that I worry about splitting the wood
> when I put the box together.


I'll look into that one, it's definitely more affordable than the other Incras. From time to time I get the 15% discounts in the emails from Rockler, maybe I'll have to start setting some money aside for one...

***Edit
I noticed that Rockler sells the "Incra Universal Precision Positioning Jig" without the fence, stop block, and right-angle fixture for $65 which would make it within reach. I also noticed that Incra has a drawing on how to make a user-made right-angle fixture: Incra owners manual LINK

Hmmm, maybe I'll have to shift directions on the fence.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Paulo,

If you watch Rockler sales, you can get that Incra universal jig complete for around $50. They run it on sale "about" twice per year IIRC. Several of us bought one last year for that amount.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Bob said:


> Paulo,
> 
> If you watch Rockler sales, you can get that Incra universal jig complete for around $50. They run it on sale "about" twice per year IIRC. Several of us bought one last year for that amount.


Wow, that's a steal. Too bad there is no way to know when the next time it would be on sale that cheap. 

I'll more than likely go that route for a fence system, and it doesn't look like I'll have to alter the rest of the build. Right now the table top is 24" x 32", and the router bit will be centered about 10"-12" from the end. What does Incra recommend for that?


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Yep, it was $59. Here's the thread.
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4991-incra-universal-positioning-jig.html


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Paulo

Just some more shots for the Incra jig,you don't need a big table top for it..

Router Forums - View Single Post - Base Plate Help
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4883-small-router-table.html


As far as the lift you want to make we need to talk 

=========
========


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

AxlMyk said:


> Yep, it was $59. Here's the thread.
> http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4991-incra-universal-positioning-jig.html


Wow, y'all weren't joking, it was a incra jig-fest on here.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Paulo
> 
> As far as the lift you want to make we need to talk
> 
> ...


Ok, go ahead and give it to me bobj3 :blink:

I will say that I looked at home made router lifts and some were as simple as using a car scissor jack, and others were a little more complex such as using an electric motor from a car automatic window opener. Two of them that came up that caught my eye was this one:










and the one from the Popular Woodworking plan found here (screenshot below): Popular Woodworking router table plan LINK

Thanks to Memorial Day I have a 3-day weekend coming up so hope to have some solid plans by then.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Those are interesting.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

AxlMyk said:


> I put T-tracks in my table so I can mount the fence in the back, or on the side. Works well.


That picture is playing tricks with my eyes. (see pic in this post: Pic in attachment LINK )What is the knob attached too and what is it holding down? 

I got that Incra jig alone without the fence and 90° push block. I saw the fence that came with it and it looked like MDF with some T-slots in it and no aluminum angle behind it. Is that knob holding down the fence or does the board that the Incra attaches to have a hole in it and the knob is holding that down?

I ask because I didn't know if the fence is strong enough to not flex when pushing against it or if it does need to be clamped so it doesn't bend when you push against it.


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