# Router as jointer?



## fishlore (Oct 28, 2007)

Is there a good way to use a table router to get a smooth, straight edge on a rough-sawn board?


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

fishlore said:


> Is there a good way to use a table router to get a smooth, straight edge on a rough-sawn board?


Yes, there is.

It all depends upon what type of fence you have as to what method you need to follow. Basically, you need to make the outfeed side of the fence stick out further (about 1/32 to 1/16 is plenty) then the infeed side. Zero out the bit to the outfeed side, and then run your stock. Make sure you apply pressure to your stock on the outfeed side.


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## Packard (Jan 23, 2010)

BrianS said:


> Yes, there is.
> 
> It all depends upon what type of fence you have as to what method you need to follow. Basically, you need to make the outfeed side of the fence stick out further (about 1/32 to 1/16 is plenty) then the infeed side. Zero out the bit to the outfeed side, and then run your stock. Make sure you apply pressure to your stock on the outfeed side.


Yes, an easy way to do this is to apply a strip of Formica to the outfeed side which will give you the required differential.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bill, I agree with both the above answers but for "not applicable's" one you would have to make a dedicated fence, which is no big deal.


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## fishlore (Oct 28, 2007)

*Thanks!*



Packard said:


> Yes, an easy way to do this is to apply a strip of Formica to the outfeed side which will give you the required differential.


Brilliant! Thanks for saving me several hundred dollars on a jointer I don't need now and don't have room for anyway
:thank_you2:.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

fishlore said:


> Brilliant! Thanks for saving me several hundred dollars on a jointer I don't need now and don't have room for anyway
> :thank_you2:.


I've been trying this for quite some time now and have yet to pull it off successfully. Please do a pictorial essay on it so maybe I can see what I'm doing wrong ;-)

I got so fed up I bought a jointer.


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## Slingshot (Dec 14, 2009)

There are problems using a router table as a jointer. The TDC of the arc of the bit should be precisely (plus or minus .002 would be nice, but not likely) the same as the outfeed part of the fence. Setting that up takes a lot of time, and you'll always be using the table for other things besides jointing. 

I understand about needing more room & cost, but even a small well built jointer will make woodmorking a lot nicer.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

As has been suggested, a simple dedicated fence with Laminex glued to the out feed side is all that's necessary. There is however one BIG disadvantage, not many cutters give much more than a 2" cut, whereas the average jointer covers 6".
Jonathan, could you elaborate on the TDC of the arc statement, I'm sure that I'm not the only puzzled one here.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

My router infeed and out feed fences are separate and adjustable so I just push the outfeed fwd. 
A good straight edge across the out feed and the bit assures correct depth.
And, of course a spiral cutter is your friend in this process. With a spiral, TDC isn't a concern. At least, in my experience.
Gene


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I am happy with mine, but as stated the drawback is the height of the cutter, around 50mm/2".


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Spiral carbide cutters may give a better finish, but upcut or downcut?


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

harrysin said:


> Jonathan, could you elaborate on the TDC of the arc statement, I'm sure that I'm not the only puzzled one here.


Harry,

If I had to guess, TDC (top dead center), he's sayiing that the outfeed fence must be exactly flush with the bit.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Mike Wingate said:


> I am happy with mine, but as stated the drawback is the height of the cutter, around 50mm/2".


Mine are up cut (down, when in the table) Good dust collection helps, too.
Gene


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I use my RT all the time for a jointer, it's safe way of doing short stock (less than 14" long the norm.)

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/17316-bob.html 

========


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## Timberwerkz (Jan 1, 2010)

I know you asked specifically about a Router table as a joiner, but you can also use a straight edge and a bit with the bearing on the top as well. Just clamp the straight edge where you want your new straight edge to be and rout away. 

Just another thought,

Chris


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

kp91 said:


> Harry,
> 
> If I had to guess, TDC (top dead center), he's sayiing that the outfeed fence must be exactly flush with the bit.


I can relate that to an internal combustion engine Doug, but coupled to the word "arc" and quoting 0.002" leaves me scratching my head. Regarding setting the cutter level with the out feed fence has always to the best of my knowledge been a matter of using a straight edge, in my case a 12" steel rule, no doubt frowned upon be friend Bj!


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## Slingshot (Dec 14, 2009)

harrysin said:


> I can relate that to an internal combustion engine Doug, but coupled to the word "arc" and quoting 0.002" leaves me scratching my head. Regarding setting the cutter level with the out feed fence has always to the best of my knowledge been a matter of using a straight edge, in my case a 12" steel rule, no doubt frowned upon be friend Bj!


Arc is referring tho the path the carbide cutting edge is traveling. 

Plus or minus .002" is referrring to the tolerance that I set TDC of my jointer blades at in reference to the outfeed table. 

Fence parallelism should also be precise. If the fence is off by .005", then when you edge joint two boards that will be glued together the seam could have a .010 gap. Errors in jointing double very quickly.

I do think the router table & a proper fence can joint an edge, but the limitations & set-up time discouraged me a long time ago. I bought a 6" cast iron jointer 20 years ago & learned how to set it up with a dial gauge. Its an investment that makes woodworking much more precise.

Sorry for the delay in reply. Between work & home I don't always have time to follow up right away.


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

In keeping with the *KISS* philosophy I will go with "n/a Timberwerkz" method, why compound a simple question ?

"G"


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## Slingshot (Dec 14, 2009)

George II said:


> In keeping with the *KISS* philosophy I will go with "n/a Timberwerkz" method, why compound a simple question ?
> 
> "G"


I should have PMed Harrysin. Sorry. I have a tendancy to overcomplicate answers to simple questions. 

I agree, a good straight edge & pattern bit would work well.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

If you can't get a piece of Formica (I could only find full sheets, not drop-offs), then you might want to look into some shims from Rockler to offset a split fence. 












> # Shims measure 2" high x 14" long.
> # Includes six plastic shims in these thicknesses: four each of .010" gray, one each of .020" white, and one each of .040" blue (total thickness of 0.100" possible)


Rockler shims


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

You can also making it the way, with the fence at the left side

Santé


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## Packard (Jan 23, 2010)

Santé said:


> You can also making it the way, whith the fence at the left side
> 
> Santé


Won't that grab the material and shoot it across the room?


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## Wizard1500 (Jul 20, 2009)

Packard said:


> Won't that grab the material and shoot it across the room?


That's what I was thinking.....


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

No, if you take out only 1mm maximum and with maximum diameter of bit
That go very well but just for taken out the saw mark


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## Timberwerkz (Jan 1, 2010)

I have used the technique Sante' has pictured. When I do it I run the board through the opposite of the normal way. Instead of front to back I go back to front and only take light passes. It works great when you want to keep faces parallel. You need to be careful and use push sticks and hold downs.

Chris


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Daniel

You need to insert in your post and picture file.

*** disclaimer ***
use at your own risk 

==========


Santé said:


> No, if you take out only 1mm maximum and with maximum diameter of bit
> That go very well but just for taken out the saw mark


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Santé said:


> No, if you take out only 1mm maximum and with maximum diameter of bit
> That go very well but just for taken out the saw mark


Ca va mieux avec quelques planche plume (??). 

That would go better with feather boards.

I've been loathe to do this so I bought a jointer. I still will use the table saw for parallel edges.

Je n'ame pas le faire. Je utiliserai une scie a table pour les cotes parallel.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Yes, but this way go very well to smoth edges of melamine panel sawed.
i ave a friend he maked an extention removable at the front of the router table to smoth large pannel
(board ?)

For Bobj3: the photo is on post 21

Santé


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