# Clearest Possible Finish for Interior Pine Doors



## Thrifty Tool Guy (Aug 23, 2007)

Hello,

I'm seeking suggestions on the best finish for interior pine doors that will minimize any "yellowing" or "orange tinting". In the past, I've typically used an oil-based pre-stain (conditioner) and a natural oil stain (Minwax or Olympic) on pine or maple, then coated with a water based polyacrylic. For maple this works well, with just a bit of darking. In the case of pine, the oil based stain and pre-stain significantly darkens (or yellows) the wood.

Now, I do have pure tung oil as an alternative stain/sealer, but that seems to yield the same yellowing as the Miniwax/Olympic natural stain and I still need a clear coat for protection. Therefore, my remaining alternatives seem to be forgetting about the stain and just clear coating or trying a water based pre-stain (which I have no experience with) and clear coating (polyacrylic).

Any comments?

TTG


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I understand water based poly works well.


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## DAUTTERGUY (Jun 30, 2007)

Check out the Latest "FINE WOODWORKING". A gentleman brews tea, yes regular "Lipton", tea. Waterbased then a wipe on poly. I've not tried it yet,but he says it looks like antique pine when finished, and "Children can chew on it as it is food safe"


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

You only have two choices that i'm aware of ultra blonde shellac and water borne acrylic(all the so called water based polyurethane varnishes are in reality water borne acrylics.) Both are color fast- what you see is what you get for many many years. 
Regards
Jerry


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Thanks, Jerry. That's really good information!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Just to add a another thought, I've used the wipe on poly's and love em. however, the water based poly's take quite a few coats to build up a good finish. Aside from that, dry time is reduced somewhat, and final appearance is as good as the regular wipeon's..


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