# Drill Press Depth Stop



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I need to make one of these. Those adjustable nuts are a pain.





If you must, there are a lot of quill stop commercially available. I just so happen to have everything I need to make my own.

https://www.google.com/search?q=quill+stop&rls={moz:distributionID}:{moz:locale}:{mozfficial}&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=tlSgVdjmM4qRyQSxqofICQ&ved=0CC4QsAQ&biw=1207&bih=573


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

It's a wonder that he can cut a straight line with those shakes!

Smart idea, but I like the push-button nut that came on my DP. It's something like this ($8 from Grizzly):


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

I totally agree. I have a full size Delta drill and apparently Delta must have a patent on the simple depth ring that is on the other side where the handles are. In fact I paused to write this entry and just went and made one for my Wen Benchtop drill. Found a piece of red oak 1" thick by 2" wide. Had a 5/16" t-nut and a handle with a 5/16" bolt. My post took a 15/32 drill bit to make a hole that would slip over the threaded post. I have some cam levers that I may replace the 5-star handle with though. 

What I'd like to see is a scaled post that you could slide down to the top of your material and a way to then an easy way set the depth to drill the distance you want relative to the top. 

4D


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I have used a small vise grip plier on occasion. :grin:


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

4DThinker said:


> I totally agree. I have a full size Delta drill and apparently Delta must have a patent on the simple depth ring that is on the other side where the handles are. In fact I paused to write this entry and just went and made one for my Wen Benchtop drill. Found a piece of red oak 1" thick by 2" wide. Had a 5/16" t-nut and a handle with a 5/16" bolt. My post took a 15/32 drill bit to make a hole that would slip over the threaded post. I have some cam levers that I may replace the 5-star handle with though.
> 
> What I'd like to see is a scaled post that you could slide down to the top of your material and a way to then an easy way set the depth to drill the distance you want relative to the top.
> 
> 4D


Sorta like a hammer drill, huh? I think my Harbor Freight hammer drill came with an adjustable rod just for that purpose when drilling into concrete.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

4DThinker said:


> What I'd like to see is a scaled post that you could slide down to the top of your material and a way to then an easy way set the depth to drill the distance you want relative to the top.
> 
> 4D


If I understand what you're asking, why not just set a block on top of the part you'll be drilling, with the height of the block equal to the depth of hole to be drilled. With the stop block loose, lower the drill until the bit is touching the top of this gauge block. Tighten the knob on your depth stop and you're ready to go - just like setting the depth stop on a plunge router.

Tom


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Same here I've never had a prob setting a stop on my Delta DP and it's old 1990. 1/16" and mms increments.


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

tomp913 said:


> With the stop block loose, lower the drill until the bit is touching the top of this gauge block. Tighten the knob on your depth stop and you're ready to go - just like setting the depth stop on a plunge router.Tom


Basically what I've been doing for the last 30 years in addition to always vocally complaining about the nut spinning on post system. I noticed after taking the nuts off the post on my Wen benchtop that it had a nice imperial/metric scale on it. Light is bad with my wood block over it now, but pulling the bit down to the top of material I just use the scale to set the block for the depth I want. It is still just a little harder than using the spin setter on my Delta, which makes me believe there should be an easier pseudo-automatic method. A bit spoiled now with the programmed accuracy of depth setting on my CNCs. Seems as though there was Nova drill a few years back that automated the drill so you entered the depth you wanted and it would stop the motor when the bit got to that depth. It could sense the top when it hit resistance. Guess that drill never made it to market.


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

thanks, Mike. That's my project for this afternoon.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Up and down stops on this one, relatively cheap. Adjusted with gauges.


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Very simple jig. Did you notice the small jeeps on the table? I love them.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Is it my imagination...doesn't it work out that the thicker the stop the less the travel allowed...?

I replaced mine with a single wider nut with an allen set screw in one of the faces (drilled and tapped appropriately)...later I replaced that with a drill bit stop collar...like this one at Rockler... 

3/8" Stop Collar (Uses 7/64" Allen Wrench) - Rockler Woodworking Tools


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Well, alrighty then. Here is mine.
Fun on a Saturday afternoon! :grin:

I found a pierce of scrap 3/4 inch walnut and followed Kenbo's method of making the depth stop.
Like he said, it had to be notched so the nut could clear. Otherwise it went as planned. It appears my rod has 5/8-13 threads.

I did retain the washer that was originally used with the two knurled nuts. That provides a solid base for the depth stop to rest on. Otherwise, the stop will hit the rounded part of the press housing and skew the setting.

I made several tests with the stop set. It seems to work OK. Not great, but OK and much better than messing with those nuts. Quick and easy adjustment. However, if I tried to press the handle farther, the stop wold slip a little. Not really a deal breaker. I've got eyesd that can see when I am almost on the stop, so no real need to force it.

I do think next time I place and order through Amazon, I will get one of the quill stops that are threaded.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

tomp913 said:


> If I understand what you're asking, why not just set a block on top of the part you'll be drilling, with the height of the block equal to the depth of hole to be drilled. With the stop block loose, lower the drill until the bit is touching the top of this gauge block. Tighten the knob on your depth stop and you're ready to go - just like setting the depth stop on a plunge router.
> 
> Tom


I was out in the shop working and for some reason I started thinking about this post - came back in the house and realized that I had it backwards. The block equal to the depth of hole to be drilled goes under the stop block with the end of the bit touching the part. Duh!

Everybody complains about this style, but I'd like to have one on my drill as it seems way easier than the one I have. It's the Delta style where you loosen the clamp bolt and rotate the body to set the travel. Maybe because I don't use it that much but it seems that I have to re-figure it out every time I use it. I was making grooved nylon jaws for my vise and wanted to tap a blind hole, took me a while to figure it out.

Tom


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Nickp said:


> Is it my imagination...doesn't it work out that the thicker the stop the less the travel allowed...?
> 
> I replaced mine with a single wider nut with an allen set screw in one of the faces (drilled and tapped appropriately)...later I replaced that with a drill bit stop collar...like this one at Rockler...
> 
> 3/8" Stop Collar (Uses 7/64" Allen Wrench) - Rockler Woodworking Tools


I like the idea, Nick..

This post, like so many, brings many solutions to the table....


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I haven't been able to determine the threads on my depth stop rod. It's 5/8...something. A standard 11 thread bolt won't thread through it. I couldn't find anything at the big box store that would fit. And I looked up the model on Northern Tool with no luck. Their pictures show exactly what I have, but the parts diagram shows a depth ring on the handle side. That's no help.

Onward and upward.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> I like the idea, Nick..
> 
> This post, like so many, brings many solutions to the table....




Thank you...


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> I haven't been able to determine the threads on my depth stop rod. It's 5/8...something. A standard 11 thread bolt won't thread through it. I couldn't find anything at the big box store that would fit. And I looked up the model on Northern Tool with no luck. Their pictures show exactly what I have, but the parts diagram shows a depth ring on the handle side. That's no help.
> 
> Onward and upward.


Mike,

Coming from Northern Tool, it there a chance that it's a metric thread? M16 is pretty close to 5/8", standard "coarse" thread is 2mm pitch (about 12.7 threads/inch), a quick check with a thread gauge would confirm this.

Tom


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks Tom
Northern Industrial Tools Benchtop Drill Press — 16-Speeds, 3/4 HP | Drill Presses| Northern Tool + Equipment

It's a good press. Even though the pics and the video shows my depth rod and adjustment nuts, the stupid manual shows a different style depth stop. I sent them a message. Ha ha.

I will take one of the nuts to our local Ace hardware store next week. I should be able to find something that fits. Then I will know what to look for on Amazoink or eButch. >

In the mean time, I am going to give my shop made stop a work out. I can already tell it will be much faster to set and go. :grin:


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Here is mine, it has a lever on the front for quick change and a thumb nut on the side for fine adjustmant.

Herb


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

Here is mine. The scrap was already rounded on the post end, so I rounded it on the other end where the handle is. I'll take it off, sand it a little and throw some tung oil or such on it next time I am bored.
4D


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Nickp said:


> Is it my imagination...doesn't it work out that the thicker the stop the less the travel allowed...?
> 
> I replaced mine with a single wider nut with an allen set screw in one of the faces (drilled and tapped appropriately)...later I replaced that with a drill bit stop collar...like this one at Rockler...
> 
> 3/8" Stop Collar (Uses 7/64" Allen Wrench) - Rockler Woodworking Tools


Nick and James are right, Thickness matters, thinners better. The travel on most drill press quills is so limited anymore, especially for woodworking,that you don't want to diminish it. And the only way to do that is with metal, Forget the wood, IMHO.

Herb


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

tomp913 said:


> Mike,
> 
> Coming from Northern Tool, it there a chance that it's a metric thread? M16 is pretty close to 5/8", standard "coarse" thread is 2mm pitch (about 12.7 threads/inch), a quick check with a thread gauge would confirm this.
> 
> Tom


Bingo! Tom, you hit the nail on the head with the first blow! :grin:

No luck at Lowe's but I found a thread gauge at Home Depot. Between these two local stores, HD has a better choice of hardware.

The threads are indeed 16mm 2.0. I have no idea what that means, but at least I now know what the threads are.

Thanks for the help.
Mike


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

After looking at the manual for your drill press - the threads/fasteners appear to be a mix of inch/metric - it was a good bet that the thread was metric. Metric fasteners (as probably a goodly percentage of the members of this forum can tell you) are sized by OD (16mm in your case) and pitch of the thread (P2.0 or 2 mm tip to tip of the thread). In today's world, a modest investment in a metric thread gauge will pay dividends in time saved trying to identify a thread. Mine recently came in handy when I was trying to identify the threads on the bolts that hold the grooved jaws to my drill press vise. Identifying the threads is the first step, finding a tap to make the replacement nylon jaws was another story.

Tom


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

tomp913 said:


> After looking at the manual for your drill press - the threads/fasteners appear to be a mix of inch/metric - it was a good bet that the thread was metric. Metric fasteners (as probably a goodly percentage of the members of this forum can tell you) are sized by OD (16mm in your case) and pitch of the thread (P2.0 or 2 mm tip to tip of the thread). In today's world, a modest investment in a metric thread gauge will pay dividends in time saved trying to identify a thread. Mine recently came in handy when I was trying to identify the threads on the bolts that hold the grooved jaws to my drill press vise. Identifying the threads is the first step, finding a tap to make the replacement nylon jaws was another story.
> 
> Tom


Thanks. I need to get one. Got a recommendation?

I was thinking about one of those quill stops, but the only ones I can find are for 1/2-20 threads. I suppose I could replace my post with some 1/2 inch all thread and buy a stop on Amazoink. I don't use the ruler that is attached to the existing post. 

Or, just use the stop I just made.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Mike _this_ style might be more practical...
Grizzly H5615 Screw Pitch-Gauge 4-84 - Construction Marking Tools - Amazon.com
You can check both male and female threads, Metric and Imperial.
Another style, same thing; both male and female threads...
Nut & Bolt Thread Gauges: Quickly Identify Pitch & Diameter for both Inch & Metric sizes!


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Just saw this thread (pun intended) and wondered what the issues were.
My Delta 12 inch press has an easily adjustable depth stop.
Press in the button for course adjustment (allows the stop to slide up and down) then turn the knob for finer adjustment. See attached photos.

Yes, that's a golf ball on speed adjuster - although the variable speed doesn't work so I'm limited to one speed - this was a reported issue with this press because of the pulley design. Don't remember what the pulley is called but it contracts and expands to allow the speed to change and can't find a replacement part, so.....)

Vince


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Oh great, Vince, now I've got to go and buy a new drill press... just kidding!


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

vchiarelli said:


> Just saw this thread (pun intended) and wondered what the issues were.
> *My Delta 12 inch press has an easily adjustable depth stop.
> Press in the button for course adjustment (allows the stop to slide up and down) then turn the knob for finer adjustment. See attached photos.*
> 
> Vince


Well, that is the whole problem. Mine has the two nuts, and I am tired of them. So I made the wooden one from the video by Kenbo.

I would love to have a depth stop adjustment device like yours, but my threaded rod is 16mm, not 1/2 inch. :frown: I can't find one available for that diameter.

That's why I am saying I might replace the threaded post with a piece of 1/2 inch all thread and order something like yours from Amazoink.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Mike, I see - I assumed they were all the same size, and to be honest, not even sure what diameter my threaded rod is or what the thread count is.


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

Yep, 2" tall stop was losing me 1" of travel. So I took it off and trimmed 1/2" off the top and bottom, re-rounded the end and now have access to the full range of travel.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

4DThinker said:


> Yep, 2" tall stop was losing me 1" of travel. So I took it off and trimmed 1/2" off the top and bottom, re-rounded the end and now have access to the full range of travel.


How do you do a micro adjustment with that one? Just curious.

Herb


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Thanks. I need to get one. Got a recommendation?
> 
> I was thinking about one of those quill stops, but the only ones I can find are for 1/2-20 threads. I suppose I could replace my post with some 1/2 inch all thread and buy a stop on Amazoink. I don't use the ruler that is attached to the existing post.
> 
> Or, just use the stop I just made.


Mike,

The gauge doesn't have to be fancy. I got this one at Lowes Shop IRWIN Metric Gauge at Lowes.com It will do everything you need.

Tom


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

Mike,

It took a little sifting through the google search results, but here is a link to a push button nut that's M16x2.0 (part number KN-716 about 2/3 down the page)


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Ratbob said:


> Mike,
> 
> It took a little sifting through the google search results, but here is a link to a push button nut that's M16x2.0 (part number KN-716 about 2/3 down the page)


Thanks Jeff. That is exactly what I was looking for. I think I have been to that web page, but I didn't scroll down.

Mike

*EDIT: Got one ordered!* :dance3:


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

For $12.00,why would a guy make one?

Herb


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> For $12.00,why would a guy make one?
> 
> Herb


...and $11 shipping. :grin:


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> How do you do a micro adjustment with that one? Just curious.
> 
> Herb


Not a machinist, just a woodworker. Never needed a micro adjust on a drill press. If the hole wasn't deep enough I'd drill "just a bit" deeper. if it was too deep then no adjustment I could make would make it shallower. If critical I'd "fill" the hole with a little sawdust to bring the bottom up. If I needed a row of the same depth holes then I'd tweak on a practice scrap until the depth was just what I needed. 

With the dial depth stop on my Delta drill it is easy to set within 1/32" (halfway between 1/16" marks). On my Wen drill with the post I rarely used the depth stop because it was so tedious to spin those nuts up and down. I have some gauge blocks in 1/16" increments that I keep by the press and now I just lower the bit to the workpiece, stick a block (or blocks) the thickness of the depth I need under the sliding stop. Slide the stop down to them then lock. There is also a fine scale on the face of the post, and with the bit lowered to the workpiece I can set my stop where I want just looking at the scale.


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