# Making a kreg clamping/router table in one.



## crittergitter (Nov 16, 2011)

I am making a table as you can see. I have a couple questions regarding the thickness of the 2 materials. One is a piece of MDF and the other is a repurposed countertop. As you can see by the pictures the 2 pieces of material are thicker than the kreg rails and the MDF by about an 1/8". With the rails being recessed is this going to be a problem when using the clamps? I am also going to be gluing the 2 pieces of material and place cahls at both ends and space 2 of them between the ends about 16.5" apart is this sufficient spacing for clamping? The total length/width of the table is 53" x 24.5". I was also thinking of the kreg stand off for face frames will I still be able to use them? 
Thanks for all wonderful reads on routing and wood working in general.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I am somewhat confused but I think you are saying you are going to glue (laminate) two pieces together to come up with a 1 1/2 inch thick or thereabouts top. Right?

If so, you should be good. My old bench had those clamp tracks. I routed the top so they fit flush with the table top, which was a solid core door cut to size. It was 1 7/8 inches thick. 

You will need some meat so the bolts will have something to attach to.


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## crittergitter (Nov 16, 2011)

Yes two pieces of 3/4 material. One is MDF and the other is a repurposed countertop. I do want the top surface level with clamp tracks. As I was reading the previous post I had an epiphany. I was thinking of taking up the tracks and place 2 flat washers between the tracks and the MDF. This may give me the desired result.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Understand the concern about the Kreg tabs - that may be a problem with the height difference as they will be pointing up when the attachment bolts are tightened. Your idea of shimming the t-track is good, may I suggest a strip of 1/8" hardboard under them to provide full support when the attachment bolts are tightened.


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## crittergitter (Nov 16, 2011)

Good idea Tom. I will see if I can get 1/8" hardboard, if I can't I might be able to get 1/8" aluminum by 2" thick. I like it as I communicate with others ideas come forth.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

crittergitter said:


> Good idea Tom. I will see if I can get 1/8" hardboard, if I can't I might be able to get 1/8" aluminum by 2" thick. I like it as I communicate with others ideas come forth.


How come you don't want to make one piece with the overall dimensions cut to size. Then simply route out the area needed. The tracks should sit flush and all you will need to do is drill the holes for the bolts?


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

crittergitter said:


> Good idea Tom. I will see if I can get 1/8" hardboard, if I can't I might be able to get 1/8" aluminum by 2" thick. I like it as I communicate with others ideas come forth.


I would have suggested a couple layers of plastic laminate (Formica) as I always have scraps lying around but most don't so hardboard is probably more common. Aluminum would be good as, like the laminate, it's not going to compress over time and let the track maybe loosen up.


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## crittergitter (Nov 16, 2011)

MT and Tom, I would have to buy a whole sheet of hardboard and only use a 2"wide by 33" strip of the material to raise it up close with the repurposed countertop. Plus, I have the rail set alongside the edge of the material. I already have the holes drilled and the rails in place. I was thinking of taking off the rails and clamping the aluminum strip in place and use the existing holes as a guide for the aluminum. The routing to fit part I am not understanding.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I think I understand what your are saying. The two pieces are not the same size, and you don't want to cut them to match.

In that case, I would find whatever piece of wood was laying around and glue it into the 2 inch wide area (Blue piece). Then use the router to mill the depth to 11/16 inch. Then the track will sit flush with the top. 11/16 inch is what my track measures in thickness.

I mention this because I have done it several times and it worked just fine each time.

Good luck with your project. Post some pictures. We like pictures! :grin:


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## crittergitter (Nov 16, 2011)

Yes, MT I didn't want to cut the pieces to match, because it would have made the table less than 24" wide. I used 2 pieces of aluminum material for both rails and it worked. When I am finished the table will be 56x24. It is going to be a multipurpose table...Clampdown, router table, assembly, and an out-feed table. I do plan on taking pictures as I progress through the build. Thanks for all of the advice.


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## Red Stick (Sep 7, 2011)

I did a similar thing (sorry, no pictures) but the top of the tracks is slightly below the surface of the table. Sometimes I have to kind of finagle the dogs and clamps on/off, but, in general, no problem.


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