# Router Table Top



## usavguy (Sep 5, 2008)

Hello forum,
First, let me say thank you for all of the great advice given to so many of us novices out there. 

I have a couple quick questions about building the router table top. I am beginning my first real project with the router combo kit from Craftsman. Pricing out all of the materials new from HD (and table plate online) brings me to about $120 and I would like to cut that down by about 50%. 

TOP:
I would like to use melamine (sp?) for the top, but I don't know if this will be strong enough or practical. Can I cut two pieces and cement them together? My design involves a torsion box, of sorts, to give it more strength and stability. 

PLATE:
Can I make my own router plate with Lexan plastic if I can find something that is 1/2in? (the 1/4in I can get free from work seems to bend, slightly, under pressure)

sorry for the long post first time out - and thanks in advance for any help.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi usavguy

Gluing them up will work just fine with the new high tech. glues we now have , they are very strong..

Using 1/2" stock for the plate will work fine also I made one for my router table BUT you will need to make your own insert to fit the inside hole.
As far as finding stock, think 1/2" thick cutting boards that you can pickup from Target/KMart cheap..

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usavguy said:


> Hello forum,
> First, let me say thank you for all of the great advice given to so many of us novices out there.
> 
> I have a couple quick questions about building the router table top. I am beginning my first real project with the router combo kit from Craftsman. Pricing out all of the materials new from HD (and table plate online) brings me to about $120 and I would like to cut that down by about 50%.
> ...


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## usavguy (Sep 5, 2008)

Wow, thanks for the quick response. I didn't expect anything back so soon.

Is it essential to have a custom insert as well? Can't I just make a smaller hole for the bit & collet? I suppose larger diameter bits would be out then, but I am just starting and I am really only using round-overs and straight bits now. Nothing fancy.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi usavguy

You can BUT in no time you will want a bigger hole for the bigger router bits to turn free...and the hole must be dead on center so now would be the time to do it right from the get go..

But You must keep in mind that the router can only go so high or to say lift the bit up so high..many run into this error once they start using the router table...

If you use a standard plate you have lost a 1/4" from the get go...1/4" doesn't sound like much but it is ...
In time you will need a *Extension like the one below....

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_collet.html

You will need to over come the 1/2" thick plate 

You can get longer bits but most come in one size...

Many things to think about when you are making a router table... 
When you use a standard drop in mounting plate you will get ( push/snap-in inserts) the norm, then you can use the standard brass guides in your router table, you may say why do I need that, down the road you will say I wish I could do that on my router table...and with the right mounting plate you can  plus you can use almost all of the router bits in your router table...


I would suggest you take a look at the plate below you can always beef it up if you want to
and give it more to hang on to in the router table ( bigger edge) with some plastic glue/screwed to the base plate around the router base.. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94331
http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/94000-94999/94331.pdf

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usavguy said:


> Wow, thanks for the quick response. I didn't expect anything back so soon.
> 
> Is it essential to have a custom insert as well? Can't I just make a smaller hole for the bit & collet? I suppose larger diameter bits would be out then, but I am just starting and I am really only using round-overs and straight bits now. Nothing fancy.


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## fibertech (May 7, 2005)

This is just another example of why this site is so great. A newer member asks a specific question and someone like Bob is quickly giving advice, examples and links to find the parts and directions needed. At the time that I write this, Bob has over 7000 posts. What's even more amazing is that he is not alone. The dedication to this hobby continues to astound me. The help pours in from Nova Scotia to Perth to England, Japan, New Zealand, British Columbia and of course, just south of Denver, Colorado to name a few. -Derek


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Hi usavguy, and welcome to the forums.

I do not use my table as much as some of the members, but like you when I started out I decided to build a router plate. I think the photo will explain the pit falls of building a plate verses buying.

For me I decided buying out weighed making one, "after the fact" 

Good luck on any choice you make, there are a lot of members that have pretty impressive plates they have made. I think it comes to labour, verses cost, verses ability.

Just my views,,,


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

All things considered plastic laminate is the best surface for a router table. Low in cost, very durable, easy to clean and work with. There are more reasons but these are enough for me. The trick is to find the laminate (Like Formica brand) at a good price. Discontinued patterns are often marked down, damaged sheets with chipped corners are another example. The next table I build will be mauve colored and while some may consider this "UnManly" getting the Formica for 75% off means I will be very happy with it.


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