# Dado-confused...



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

I am looking for a dado set...needs to be stacked (mfg recommendation), 5000rpm, 5/8 arbor, carbide teeth, cleanest cot for the money...

My confusion is more about "tooth" than anything else...all I will use it for is shallow stuff...box joints, shelving, etc... What blade "xx-tooth" should I be looking for...?

Thanks in advance...Nick


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## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

If your requirement is indeed only for box joints, then look at the Freud box joint blade set. It's basically two blades which positions are switched to get an alternative thickness of cut. 

Don't worry about the teeth as the manufacturer has already worked this out for you.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

I'd get as good a dado set as you can afford. A 6" is all you need. As Hilton said, the manufacturer uses the optimum number of teeth for their specific sets.
Making box joints with a dado set can be problematic. I know of no manufacturer that produces a set that yields truly flat bottomed dadoes. There might be one, I just don't know of one. Mine is out to a sharpening shop, where the outside cutters will be ground to match the chippers. 
The Freud set that Hilton referenced will give you flat bottoms. It is OK if all you will ever need is 1/4" and 3/8" dadoes.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Thank you...will need 1/2 for box joints and 3/4 for other stuff...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Forrest, CMT, Amana, and Freud all make top of the line sets. There are options available from 6" to 8" and 12 tooth to 24 tooth. More teeth and/ or larger diameter requires more power. Stacked sets usually have several 1/8" cutters and one 1/16" cutter. Shims are available for fine tuning. Lee Valley sells a set up here.


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

I make musical instrument speaker cabs, box joints are a tradition "Fender".
Though I have things dialed in with a simple jig.
This is what I have to end up with-.005" clerance between mating fingers-otherwise they will not go together.
I use a 8" Freud dado set- cut two sides, then add a shim for the ends, to gain the clearance.
With that set, I get flat bottoms.
Now, I dont understand how to get the clearance, using a router, or the box joint saw blades.

Don


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

I presently have what, six 8" dado sets? (pro standard and finish grade) Ranging from $40 to $470... And another on it's way from Laguna. Embarrassingly, I seem to have acquired saw blades like Bob has routers. But it "has" been spread out over 40 years.

Don't buy a $40 dado set. You'll be frustrated and not satisfied with the quality... Especially if you're trying to do fine box joints or expecting a finish quality spline. They will need resharpening often.

Don't buy a $400 dado set, unless you are so inclined. The quality is surely there, but I've found that same quality for less money, in other sets.

Frued is great. Huge carbide teeth that can be resharpened again and again. Although they do seem to hold their edge for a long time. Over lapping tooth design that creates a very sooth spline..

The best bang for the buck I've found for a low-end finish dado:
Dado Set, 8" x 42 Tooth w- 6T chippers, Oshlun SDS-0842 - Carbide Processors
...But not a good match if you have an underpowered saw.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

cagenuts said:


> If your requirement is indeed only for box joints, then look at the Freud box joint blade set. It's basically two blades which positions are switched to get an alternative thickness of cut.
> 
> Don't worry about the teeth as the manufacturer has already worked this out for you.


Thank you, Hilton but I need to cut up to 3/4 for shelving, etc... The part about the mfg and teeth is a bit confusing...are you referring to blade mfg or my saw mfg ? I see same blade mfg with different tooth count. In general I think I have seen references to "more teeth, more hp needed"... I have a 10 inch, 15 amp Motor (2+hp ?)


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Everybody has different requirements but what I have found over the years is that if something takes a lot of time to set up it doesn't get used. I had a stacking set many years ago and found it to be a PIA. Nothing I did came out right unless I fiddled with it and added shims. I switched to a wobble one and can set it up in under 20 seconds. As far as the bottom smoothness everyone is right it isn't that smooth. BUT since I can't see the bottom it doesn't bother me. Actually the rough surface holds glue better. If you plan on doing a lot of box joints then a router set up is probably the way to go. The 3/4" "other stuff" is best done on a table saw but that is the stuff that you won't see the bottom of. As far as what the manufacture recommends I wouldn't pay any attention to it. Get a wobble blade from Sears and save yourself $100 dollars. Spend the extra that you saved on a box joint jig.if you don't like the blade take it back.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> I presently have what, six 8" dado sets? (pro standard and finish grade) Ranging from $40 to $470... And another on it's way from Laguna. Embarrassingly, I seem to have acquired saw blades like Bob has routers. But it "has" been spread out over 40 years.
> 
> Don't buy a $40 dado set. You'll be frustrated and not satisfied with the quality... Especially if you're trying to do fine box joints or expecting a finish quality spline. They will need resharpening often.
> 
> ...


Thank you, Mike...looks like a good set...Freud videos show a real flat finish also...regarding power, I have a 10 inch, 15 amp saw (2+ hp ?)...look ok for the Oshlun...?


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

Here is an example of my box joint progress.
The one on the left is the first speaker cab, many problems occured as can be seen.
The two piece example on the right, things are dialed in better.
I used 1/4" slots, being more then 25 slots 5/8" deep.









In an effort to stretch out this 100yr old spruce I resawed out of a beam from a building, I jointed the back panels using the same set up.


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

Personally I prefer the stacking style as I feel they are of greater accuracy. I use Oshlun SDS-0842 8-Inch 42 Tooth Stack Dado Set with 5/8-Inch Arbor by Oshlun - and the same brand for box joints. They leave a smooth bottom, clean sides, made in the USA and are better than the Freud I still have but never use. Don't forget you can use your router if you have the correct jig. I use mine almost everyday so the router for me it is not an option. Lastly, you can use a single blade and a jig with hard start and stop points incorporated. Type in "Oshlun dado" into amazon and read the reviews (129 and 4.7 out of 5)

Good Luck
Baker


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

I recall several years ago that the Router Workshop guys compared dados made with table saws and dados made with routers, and they concluded that the router-made dados were of higher quality. 
I, an amateur woodworker hobbyist, don't even own a table saw.


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

I still dont know how one would get needed clearance using a router, other then some sort of jig adjustment, then running the work back through to shave a side. That would seem to be time consuming.
I would think for my application, the dado blade/table saw would be less costly, as so far I have made well over 2000 cuts using the same dado blade set and its still sharp.

I found this out the hard way, in solid woods, its important to get the box together right away.
The slots will slip together nicely when first made, but, even after a few hours, the boards start to cup and warp, making it harder. Let it sit for a few days, the joints may not go together at all.
The joints I am doing are long however.

Don


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Nick; your saw motor isn't dual voltage? If it is, and you don't pack it around to jobsites, you really ought to set it up for 220V. You'll get a noticeable increase in effectiveness, for want of a better word, especially when you're really giving it a workout. The Amp. rating on the motor plate will show something like "12/6 Amps"
meaning the larger # at 110V and the lower # @ 220V.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Well there ya go! A flat bottom dado. I wish I had found this before I bought mine. 




rwbaker said:


> Personally I prefer the stacking style as I feel they are of greater accuracy. I use Oshlun SDS-0842 8-Inch 42 Tooth Stack Dado Set with 5/8-Inch Arbor by Oshlun - and the same brand for box joints. They leave a smooth bottom, clean sides, made in the USA and are better than the Freud I still have but never use. Don't forget you can use your router if you have the correct jig. I use mine almost everyday so the router for me it is not an option. Lastly, you can use a single blade and a jig with hard start and stop points incorporated. Type in "Oshlun dado" into amazon and read the reviews (129 and 4.7 out of 5)
> 
> Good Luck
> Baker


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Nick; your saw motor isn't dual voltage? If it is, and you don't pack it around to jobsites, you really ought to set it up for 220V. You'll get a noticeable increase in effectiveness, for want of a better word, especially when you're really giving it a workout. The Amp. rating on the motor plate will show something like "12/6 Amps"
> meaning the larger # at 110V and the lower # @ 220V.


It is not, Dan...only 110V 15A


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

rwbaker said:


> Personally I prefer the stacking style as I feel they are of greater accuracy. I use Oshlun SDS-0842 8-Inch 42 Tooth Stack Dado Set with 5/8-Inch Arbor by Oshlun - and the same brand for box joints. They leave a smooth bottom, clean sides, made in the USA and are better than the Freud I still have but never use. Don't forget you can use your router if you have the correct jig. I use mine almost everyday so the router for me it is not an option. Lastly, you can use a single blade and a jig with hard start and stop points incorporated. Type in "Oshlun dado" into amazon and read the reviews (129 and 4.7 out of 5)
> 
> Good Luck
> Baker


Thank you...already looking into Oshlun based on other responses as well...hoping my 15A 10 inch Skil will handle it...thoughts...?


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Sawdust Don said:


> Here is an example of my box joint progress.
> The one on the left is the first speaker cab, many problems occured as can be seen.
> The two piece example on the right, things are dialed in better.
> I used 1/4" slots, being more then 25 slots 5/8" deep.
> ...


WOW...big difference...thanks for the pics...and the blade you use...? No doubt it's a goodie...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Sawdust Don said:


> Now, I dont understand how to get the clearance, using a router, or the box joint saw blades.
> 
> Don


Have you looked to the Leigh D4 for this???


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Thank you...already looking into Oshlun based on other responses as well...hoping my 15A 10 inch Skil will handle it...thoughts...?


+1 for the Freud in the 6"...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

mgmine said:


> Everybody has different requirements but what I have found over the years is that if something takes a lot of time to set up it doesn't get used. I had a stacking set many years ago and found it to be a PIA. Nothing I did came out right unless I fiddled with it and added shims. I switched to a wobble one and can set it up in under 20 seconds. As far as the bottom smoothness everyone is right it isn't that smooth. BUT since I can't see the bottom it doesn't bother me. Actually the rough surface holds glue better. If you plan on doing a lot of box joints then a router set up is probably the way to go. The 3/4" "other stuff" is best done on a table saw but that is the stuff that you won't see the bottom of. As far as what the manufacture recommends I wouldn't pay any attention to it. Get a wobble blade from Sears and save yourself $100 dollars. Spend the extra that you saved on a box joint jig.if you don't like the blade take it back.


Thank you...sounds like a great idea but Skil feels a stacked will be better for the saw. I have a jig (2 actually) for the router currently set up for 1/2 joints and am happy with it...just didn't want to push it with 3/4 for shelves, etc... I've got a good square sled I made (thanks to the recommendations on here to view the various videos) and it sounds like a dado set is a worthwhile investment.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nick...

Will the arbor on your saw accept a 3/4" dado set???


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> Nick...
> 
> Will the arbor on your saw accept a 3/4" dado set???


5/8" is arbor size...

May have answered that wrong...5/8" arbor but, as you ask, I don't know if it is long enough to accept 3/4"...thanks for the heads up...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Yes, I was referring to arbor length...
Some saws won't take a full with of dado cutters...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> Nick...
> 
> Will the arbor on your saw accept a 3/4" dado set???



...You just saved my butt, Stick...I just got off the phone and arbor will not allow anything more than 1/2" dado...wasted my time and everybody else's on the forum...I was just looking in catalogs for the Oshlun to order it when you asked about the capacity...CHEEZ...

Thank you all for spending the time with me on this subject...I certainly learned a lot in doing the research you guys sent me through...now I need to decide what to do with the table saw I just bought...Christmas hasn't been that long ago...mebbe I'll make it a present for somebody...  

Wierd the way it works...I'll keep the blade and throw out the saw...'posed to be the reverse...teehee...


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

Nick,
The dado set I use for the box joints is a Freud 8", found at Home Depot-$99.
They have a half price set-Avanti- said by many not to be very good.

I have Forrest 10 and 12" dado sets that came with my Delta 12/14" saw, those are very good, but, very expensive.

Don


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> ...You just saved my butt, Stick..
> *no problem...*
> 
> now I need to decide what to do with the table saw I just bought...Christmas hasn't been that long ago...mebbe I'll make it a present for somebody...
> ...


but you are suppose to keep the baby, not the bath water...


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

*How about using router jig?*

Nick, several good points have been brought-up by a number of members, but; before you get disappointed - why not cut your dados with a *router*? I do both in having a set of stacked dado blades, chippers, blah, blah, blah - but to me there is no better way to get the dado's right every time than using the $2.00 jig that I found in the "Tips and Tricks" section of a woodworking magazine.
There are problems in getting dado blade stacks to create that perfect width, anyway - so why not just adopt a better (much cheaper) method?
With this system, I can easily make tapered dado cuts - [essentially] impossible with table saw dado blades. I build prototypes of some pretty odd items and often have needs for funneling slots (a tapered dado), and this jig is all I ever need: It consists of 2- identical parts and it would be difficult to ever make a wrong width dado using it. You will use a 1/2" shank, 1/2" width straight router bit. After you have attached the 2- parts necessary to make each side, you will use your router and said bit to trim the edges. It is then ready for use.
Mark where the most critical side of your dado needs to go. Clamp one of these straightedges to your workpiece - making certain that your clamps will not foul with your router's travel path. Now, take a short piece of the part that will be inserted-into your dado and using it as a spacer; clamp-down the other straightedge - again make certain that none of your clamps will interfere with travel path or power cord. Adjust your cutter to the desired depth and run your router between this pair of new$2.00 straightedges with your router's baseplate riding atop of the thin material and against the thicker material. I have a set of these that hang on my shop wall that are 32" long, but we have had to make-up temporary pairs 8-10 feet long.
The dimensions on the attached sketches are what works well for me for PC690's, which have round base plates, but every person's setup must be customized for this method to work.
I hope this helps, Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Nickp said:


> Thank you, Mike...looks like a good set...Freud videos show a real flat finish also...regarding power, I have a 10 inch, 15 amp saw (2+ hp ?)...look ok for the Oshlun...?


Yes, good.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Nickp said:


> ...You just saved my butt, Stick...I just got off the phone and arbor will not allow anything more than 1/2" dado...wasted my time and everybody else's on the forum...I was just looking in catalogs for the Oshlun to order it when you asked about the capacity...CHEEZ...
> 
> Thank you all for spending the time with me on this subject...I certainly learned a lot in doing the research you guys sent me through...now I need to decide what to do with the table saw I just bought...Christmas hasn't been that long ago...mebbe I'll make it a present for somebody...
> 
> Wierd the way it works...I'll keep the blade and throw out the saw...'posed to be the reverse...teehee...


That means you can still do finger joints up to 1/2" and dado's of 3/4" in 2 steps (adjust fence) with that saw. LOL. 

Funny, I just read a dado review that said about the same thing... That maybe blade companies and customers should have more control over table saw specs.

Don is right about the Forrest set, but their set is around $270+. Cuts great, keeps edge well, lots of room for resharpening. I really like their "outside" blades and even though they are not a high tooth count, I get a quality cut with them. Smooth flat splines.

Avanti is "cheap". It will work in a pinch. The spline is... well, not cabinet or furniture quality on hardwoods, just because how the teeth are set and the plates seem a little soft. I do notice a little tearout with that set. I notice a little vibration with that set. Work is acceptable for a time, until the blades get dull, which is not as long as other brands. You won't get as many resharpenings out of the blades because there's not much carbide to spare on them. If you bought one and it was your first dado set, you either wouldn't notice, because you had no expectations or it might put you off to dado's, thinking that they should do better. (You would be right.) If you bought the set and previously had a better set, you might be a bit p---'ed off and wonder what was wrong with it. (Yes, I bought one in a pinch for a jobsite and didn't want to wait for the next morning to bring one in from home...)


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

OPG3 said:


> Nick, several good points have been brought-up by a number of members, but; before you get disappointed - why not cut your dados with a *router*? I do both in having a set of stacked dado blades, chippers, blah, blah, blah - but to me there is no better way to get the dado's right every time than using the $2.00 jig that I found in the "Tips and Tricks" section of a woodworking magazine.
> There are problems in getting dado blade stacks to create that perfect width, anyway - so why not just adopt a better (much cheaper) method?
> With this system, I can easily make tapered dado cuts - [essentially] impossible with table saw dado blades. I build prototypes of some pretty odd items and often have needs for funneling slots (a tapered dado), and this jig is all I ever need: It consists of 2- identical parts and it would be difficult to ever make a wrong width dado using it. You will use a 1/2" shank, 1/2" width straight router bit. After you have attached the 2- parts necessary to make each side, you will use your router and said bit to trim the edges. It is then ready for use.
> Mark where the most critical side of your dado needs to go. Clamp one of these straightedges to your workpiece - making certain that your clamps will not foul with your router's travel path. Now, take a short piece of the part that will be inserted-into your dado and using it as a spacer; clamp-down the other straightedge - again make certain that none of your clamps will interfere with travel path or power cord. Adjust your cutter to the desired depth and run your router between this pair of new$2.00 straightedges with your router's baseplate riding atop of the thin material and against the thicker material. I have a set of these that hang on my shop wall that are 32" long, but we have had to make-up temporary pairs 8-10 feet long.
> ...


Thank you, Otis...so if I get this right, the router rides against the edge of the thicker part as a guide and the width of the thin part is the distance between the bit edge and the edge of the router...basically emulating a guide bearing on what would otherwise be a 1/4 inch shaft (finishing bit ?). The space between the two parts is measured by the edge of the piece that will wind up in the dado cut... Did I get it...? If I got it right, it would appear that there would be no mistakes in measuring as there would be no measuring and you can make the cut as tight or as loose as you might like it depending on how tight you squeeze the two parts together... I think it's in my head easier than it comes out of my mouth...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> That means you can still do finger joints up to 1/2" and dado's of 3/4" in 2 steps (adjust fence) with that saw. LOL.
> 
> Funny, I just read a dado review that said about the same thing... That maybe blade companies and customers should have more control over table saw specs.
> 
> ...


Thank you, Mike...yes I can take a couple of passes which is what Skil rep advised me to do. The disappointment is that the saw has enough power to handle the 13/16" blades and the only thing preventing it is the length of the arbor shaft...seems wasteful. He recommended the 3410 and I was prepared to buy it but it turns out it is only a 1/2" dado capacity. By the way, I am not hung up on Skil...it just seemed to be the "big bang for the buck" and easily available. For the money I paid for this saw, I will use it for other work and keep shopping for a better one. I would prefer to spend the extra money for the better investment, which is what I should have done to begin with. Heck...for the money I can give it away when I get something better...Thanks for your input...Nick

Besides...I already built a sled for this one...


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Nickp said:


> Thank you, Otis...so if I get this right, the router rides against the edge of the thicker part as a guide and the width of the thin part is the distance between the bit edge and the edge of the router...basically emulating a guide bearing on what would otherwise be a 1/4 inch shaft (finishing bit ?). The space between the two parts is measured by the edge of the piece that will wind up in the dado cut... Did I get it...? If I got it right, it would appear that there would be no mistakes in measuring as there would be no measuring and you can make the cut as tight or as loose as you might like it depending on how tight you squeeze the two parts together... I think it's in my head easier than it comes out of my mouth...


LOL- Actually, the way he said was simpler than that... A router dado jig is two parallel surfaces that you put over the where you want your dado, clamp, route the dado.

Those surfaces can be adjusted to get the width of your dado. Some dado jigs you use a guide. Others go off the router base plate. Either, to get a good finish cut, use a 1/2" straight bit in an adjusted jig... make a pass on one side (correct cut based on direction of cutter) , back on the other side. There you go. (based on the depth of cut.)


I've found if try to cut a dado with a router in one cut, for example a 3/4" dado with a 3/4" bit, sometimes it will be oversized or possibly having a few "wanders"... and not come out as good. Doing it with a slightly smaller bit and doing it in 2 passes, you can tune the width to get a tight joint.

"If" the jig you built was set just for 3/4" dado's, then you could mark where it would need to set for that cut and there would be no additional measuring. If the work was already marked, you just line up the marks on your jig to the marks on your work.

If I'm doing just a few dado's, I go this route. I have both style jigs made in various sizes.

Then if it where done with a plywood dado bit (slightly undersized) and a track saw type jig... Then you could cut lines (dado's) along a known "line"... Dado jig is a lot less.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Nick, if your saw is only 15 amp I would recommend a 6" dado set. Sometimes you can find good used saws, the older ones that are cast iron on Craig's List, Kijiji, or in the classifieds.
A friend of mine wanted to upgrade and I bought his old 10" Rockwell for a hundred bucks. It's a much better saw than most of the budget ones available. And it will handle a full dado stack.


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

+1 on the oldie Rockwell contractors saws, CL prices can be all over the place, average around $200.
Those saws can be run on 110 or 220 volts.

The new saws at the big box stores are a bad joke!
But yet, that plastic garbage gets rave reviews.

Don


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Here are pix of one type of dado jig. This one is router and bit specific as the router base rides against the 3/4 rails on either side of the dado path. It's sized to make 3/8"-1 1/2" dadoes. Just line up one edge of the jig on the line and rout.
More versatile jigs are the type that uses a collar or the one that employs a pattern bit. 
Even though the one in the pix must be used with only on sized bit and a specific router, I like it because of it's simplicity.
Sorry for the poor photography.




















MAFoElffen said:


> LOL- Actually, the way he said was simpler than that... A router dado jig is two parallel surfaces that you put over the where you want your dado, clamp, route the dado.
> 
> Those surfaces can be adjusted to get the width of your dado. Some dado jigs you use a guide. Others go off the router base plate. Either, to get a good finish cut, use a 1/2" straight bit in an adjusted jig... make a pass on one side (correct cut based on direction of cutter) , back on the other side. There you go. (based on the depth of cut.)
> 
> ...


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## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

A very topical blog posting to read.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Thank you, Mike and Gene...yes...that's what Otis's description left in my head...I like this as I'm sure it will make cutting bigger pieces like tall component cabinet ends easier. I've since googled and youtubed router dado jigs and its time to make yet another jig...I can see how easy it's going to be to quickly become a "jighead"...thank you for the pictures...worth more than a thousand...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

cagenuts said:


> A very topical blog posting to read.


Thank you, Hilton...great reading, especially for a newbie...I now have a better understanding of the relationships among all the pieces of a dado set...so much to learn...so little time... I think I need to retire early... LOL...


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## jholly (Nov 18, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> <snip>
> The best bang for the buck I've found for a low-end finish dado:
> Dado Set, 8" x 42 Tooth w- 6T chippers, Oshlun SDS-0842 - Carbide Processors
> ...But not a good match if you have an underpowered saw.


Looks like a nice set. How are the bat ears on this set? I have a Freud and it has very noticeable bat ears in the corners. Really a drag for drawer dividers. I was looking at the DeWalt 7670 set because the pictures I've seen of it's cuts has little bat wings.


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

I think the latest 8" Freud dado sets do not have the bat ear problem. At least mine doesnt.

Don


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Sawdust Don said:


> I think the latest 8" Freud dado sets do not have the bat ear problem. At least mine doesnt.
> 
> Don


Don-

I do also have a recent Freud dado set, but I'm lost in translation... What does "the bat ear problem" mean?

Mike


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Mike,
The outside blades are a bit larger than the chippers and the teeth are raked/slanted to the inside. Makes a cut with flat walls, a bit deeper than the inteior of the dado and slanted inward. "Bat ears".


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Nick-meister, you understood my post correctly. It actually goes faster to make a dado than to describe it. I've seen guys spend an hour getting their dado stacks "just right" for some funky plywood thicknesses. I'm done with 10 or 20 dado cuts in less time. The key thing (at least for me) has been to make certain that your clamps do not interfere with the travel path of the router or the power cord of the router. For shelving, you may even make this jig shorter than what is shown on my .pdf files attached [above] herein.
Good luck and do things safely. Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Thanks Gene-

In that case, the Freud Diablo Dado Set has outside toothed blades that both.. Half the teeth are pointed on the outside and slightly raked to the inside. The other half of the teeth are flat-bottomed. The chippers are flat bottomed teeth. The outside blades and chippers are the same diameter cut.

The teeth on the outside blades are 0.190", offset so the outside of the tooth is almost even to a 0.10 plate. (The tooth is offset to the inside.) The cutter tooth is 0.277" and is centered on an 0.131" plate. What this means is that when you stack the set, there is some tooth overlap bringing up the effective tooth count in the full width of cut, including the outside blade's cutting surface. 

So, yes, it cuts a flat spline... even when just using the 2 outside blades for a 1/4" finger joint. It does only go down to 1/4" as it's minimum width.


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## 01stairguy (Apr 18, 2010)

Freud SD608 8'' Dial-A-Width Dado

$274.97Each 
This is a good set. I have this my self the best one out there.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

01stairguy said:


> Freud SD608 8'' Dial-A-Width Dado
> 
> $274.97Each
> This is a good set. I have this my self the best one out there.


Ron-
I never used one of these... I'm curious.

I understand that that dado set is still a stacked dado where you add and remove chippers to get your width. Then the dial-a-width is used instead of shims for fine adjustments? Does the stack sit on the hub of the dial-a-width adjuster, with that mechanism on the saw arbor? Reading reviews and how people talked about how their saw didn't allow max cuts because of their saw's arbor length, but still talked about how it worked with narrower cuts, I assume that that dial-a-width adjuster mechanism gets wider as you adjust it out? Correct?

Was just wondering "how" it worked.


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## 01stairguy (Apr 18, 2010)

MAFoElffen said:


> Ron-
> I never used one of these... I'm curious.
> 
> I understand that that dado set is still a stacked dado where you add and remove chippers to get your width. Then the dial-a-width is used instead of shims for fine adjustments? Does the stack sit on the hub of the dial-a-width adjuster, with that mechanism on the saw arbor? Reading reviews and how people talked about how their saw didn't allow max cuts because of their saw's arbor length, but still talked about how it worked with narrower cuts, I assume that that dial-a-width adjuster mechanism gets wider as you adjust it out? Correct?
> ...


That is correct. And the max width that you can do at 1 pass is 3/4 wide. The dial works best if you want to tight fit any width that you desire.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

MAFoElffen said:


> I never used one of these... I'm curious.
> 
> Was just wondering "how" it worked.


Hi Mike. Boy, you know what curiousity did to the cat..... 

Dial a width, or sometims called a "wobbler" is in 2 pieces, with opposite tapers on the inside. You turn the halfs so each side climbs the taper, moving the sides further apart. This appears to create a "wobble" as the blade turns as one side is the width you want to cut, and the opposite side of the blade assembly is close together.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

wobble washers,I miss place the chart for mine a long time ago so if any one has one please post it.. Thanks



==



BrianS said:


> Hi Mike. Boy, you know what curiousity did to the cat.....
> 
> Dial a width, or sometims called a "wobbler" is in 2 pieces, with opposite tapers on the inside. You turn the halfs so each side climbs the taper, moving the sides further apart. This appears to create a "wobble" as the blade turns as one side is the width you want to cut, and the opposite side of the blade assembly is close together.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

BrianS said:


> Hi Mike. Boy, you know what curiousity did to the cat.....
> 
> Dial a width, or sometims called a "wobbler" is in 2 pieces, with opposite tapers on the inside. You turn the halfs so each side climbs the taper, moving the sides further apart. This appears to create a "wobble" as the blade turns as one side is the width you want to cut, and the opposite side of the blade assembly is close together.


Not in this instance. Freud's dial-a-width dado is not a wobbler. 

My understanding is that the Freud dail-a-width "is" a true stacked dado set that the individual blades and chippers mounts onto the hub of an expanding arbor adapter. The expanding arbor adapter has adjustments from narrow to wide in "width" in increments of 0.004" but that is in holding the dado's blades and chippers and how wide they are apart from each other. (attached instruction sheet)

You still use combinations of blades and chippers to get your width, but use the dial-a-width adapter to dial in adjustments to that instead of using shims.

Where-as a wobbler type dado is as you described. I have used them. It does not use chipper blades. It creates a spline that has sides that are wider at the bottom than at the throat, a somewhat rounded rough bottom surface. That shape is somewhat challenging to a good furniture type joint. There is usually tearout at the surface. A lot of people think of this type of dado as being "dangerous." Just because it has one blade, the hub is still 3/4" wide. 

Do I like them? No. I just don't like the quality of the cut of a wobbler. I also don't like the vibration they create and from that, they are long term hard on arbor bearings. They are usually not very expensive and resultingly are not very high quality. They don't stay sharp very long, as the cut is more like doing cove cuts than a normal saw cut and their carbide is usually not very high quality. 

Resharpening a stack dado is spendy, just because of the number of plates and the number of teeth. Resharpening a wobble dado? Good luck to you. A lot of sharpening shops will not touch one. In they do, you aren't going to get many resharpenigs anyways as there isn't much to the teeth on them. ...So they are truly considered as expendables.

I never tried to use one for doing finger joints... but from the quality of the cut and the tearout, I feel it would be very challenging to try to keep the fingers from tearing off while attempting it. Even if it worked, the joint is just not going to work out. Does not create a good geometry for the joint.

Here. This is a good read:
http://www.woodworkingseminars.com/wp-content/DadoBlades.pdf

It explains the differences in dado types, how they are setup, used, their resulting cut characteristics, etc.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

MAFoElffen said:


> Not in this instance. Freud's dial-a-width dado is not a wobbler.


Really? Going to have to look at that one as I only knew about the one type. I too do not like them. I have one here somewhere... I inherited it from a friend who was selling off a few tools and he tossed that in with the lot. I've never used it, as I prefer the stacked set for the saw. But, that said, I actually prefer a good router bit overall. 

I've still got the HSS ones that my Dad bought, probably back in the 50's.. still plenty sharp enough to do a good job. Also, a Delta set, that looks like a really good set, except for the uneven bottom the chippers leave.

Thanks for the PDF's.


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## Bradleytavares (Feb 25, 2012)

Router table w/ box joint jig from Rockler has worked well for years. Router bit gives a flat bottom and they fit tightly, every time. Very easy set up and fast. I know you asked for a dado blade but if you have a RT, it's the way to go.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

OPG3 said:


> Nick-meister, you understood my post correctly. It actually goes faster to make a dado than to describe it. I've seen guys spend an hour getting their dado stacks "just right" for some funky plywood thicknesses. I'm done with 10 or 20 dado cuts in less time. The key thing (at least for me) has been to make certain that your clamps do not interfere with the travel path of the router or the power cord of the router. For shelving, you may even make this jig shorter than what is shown on my .pdf files attached [above] herein.
> Good luck and do things safely. Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


Thank you, Otis...and especially for the .pdf's...your opinion on the following, please...?

If I wanted to cut dado's into a stair stringer for the treads or a book case to hold books at an angle, for example, might I make your jig adjustable rather than fixed at 90 deg...? Your thoughts...? Anybody else ever try an "adjustable angle" router dado jig...? Thank you...

Shall I start a different thread...?


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Bradleytavares said:


> Router table w/ box joint jig from Rockler has worked well for years. Router bit gives a flat bottom and they fit tightly, every time. Very easy set up and fast. I know you asked for a dado blade but if you have a RT, it's the way to go.


Thank you, Bradley...I think I'm going with a router dado instead...the thread responses have given me the opportunity to continue looking at different methods to dado and I think I'm convinced to use the router...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> Not in this instance. Freud's dial-a-width dado is not a wobbler.
> 
> My understanding is that the Freud dail-a-width "is" a true stacked dado set that the individual blades and chippers mounts onto the hub of an expanding arbor adapter. The expanding arbor adapter has adjustments from narrow to wide in "width" in increments of 0.004" but that is in holding the dado's blades and chippers and how wide they are apart from each other. (attached instruction sheet)
> 
> ...


Thank you, Mike...the .pdf's and link were excellent reads...


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Nick-meister, (this is kinda picky) - technically a dado goes across [perpendicular to] the wood's grain and a groove goes along [parallel with] the wood's grain - so I think if you're cutting for stair treads & risers - it is probably best referred to as a *recess*. Anyway, we know what you mean. Many contractors will cut stair stringers with a circular saw and therefore they feel an "overcut" is necessary, yet; more prudent ones will finish those cuts with a handsaw. An even better way (for the outside stringers) uses a router to cut a *recess* into the stringer as opposed to simple intersecting steps. This does not mean that all stairs need to be made this way, but for stairs made from wood, but not exposed to weather it works quite nicely.
I have suggested to people on this forum, as well as my employees and subcontractors to make a template (for about 3 treads & risers) and clamp-it-down to the _carefully marked_ stringer(s). Then use a bearing-guided bit narrower than the actual recess width will be and cut said recess with multiple passes.
As far as your question segment:


> or a book case to hold books at an angle


 I've only built bookcases for books to be layed flat or standing-on-edge, except those little leaning bookstands that hold maybe a dozen or fewer books.
Basically, regardless of what the dado, groove or recess is intended for - is usually insignificant. 
Dependant on your skill level and experience, a lot can be done by judiciously using clamps. I have seen people climb great heights on vertical [wide-flange] steel columns using nothing more than C-Clamps. They must have a lot of C-Clamps, but every so often a pulley gets repositioned to higher and higher clamps to enable additional clamps to be sent-up by coworkers. Only when said worker gets back to the descent are clamps removed and usually dropped.
Now you may be wondering why I brought-up the clamp subject...here's your answer: Observe how your clamps work, recognize their strengths and weaknesses, learn the positions they work best for and where they are more trouble than they are worth. There are many types of clamps and there are ideal places for each style. Take a *HANDSCREW CLAMP*, for instance; these are ideal for many jobs - but totally useless for others. Look at the various types of *C-CLAMPS*, you will see a wide variety - and again great for some jobs yet pitiful for others. *ONE-HANDED CLAMPS (a.k.a. QUICK-GRIP)* are often a good choice, but; once again unsuitable for other projects. *F-STYLE CLAMPS* are very handy for a wide variety of applications, yet an absolute practical joke for others. I could go on and on, but my point in telling you this is to say whenever you're using a straightedge guide or the dado jig described earlier, you need to match the job with the size and style of clamp necessary. Some people have maybe just one type of clamp in their shop - these people will oftimes go to great extremes to make their clamp work. Another "kin subject" is cauls - often these can be homemade, but sometimes their application is paramount to a successful sawing or routering experience.
Hint: often your F-STYLE CLAMPS work best upside-down (from the capital letter F) if a router is going to pass nearby.

I hope this helps!


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Oh-yeah, when using MDF or plywood; the terms DADO and GROOVE can get kinda fuzzy.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Thank you, Otis...EXTREMELY HELPFUL... I especially appreciate you taking the time to add to my wood vocabulary...I appreciate your point about the clamps as even with my newness I have found my clamps lacking for certain jobs...I like the idea of a 3 step template for my current project as I need to replace (and redesign) my front door inside stairs...there is not enough support for one of the stringers (currently two studs toe nailed to stringer with four nails. That same stringer is not even sitting on the lower landing or nailed to header on upper landing. The things one finds when removing carpet...thanks again...


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Here's a Wood Whisperer vid of a router jig build (non-bushing type) ...

139 – Exact-Width Dado Jig | The Wood Whisperer

... and some plans (the zipped file is a Google Sketchup plan and requires guide bushings).

GCG


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Patrick, that is similar to what I spoke of earilier in this thread. The difference is that mine does not employ the shorter perpendicular pieces, nor knobs, nor slots. Mine is super-simple, I figured it is going to need 4- clamps anyway - so to me, having the other stuff is like wearing a belt and suspenders. Also, I often have need to build funnel slots - which [additional parts model] this method would likely impede.


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## jholly (Nov 18, 2012)

Sawdust Don said:


> I think the latest 8" Freud dado sets do not have the bat ear problem. At least mine doesnt.
> 
> Don


Perhaps the latest don't, but my Freud SD308(?) does. 

I got the DeWalt DW7670 today. Have not tried it yet, but the alternate teeth on the outside blades are flat ground so hopefully this will keep the bat ears in check. The last drawer dividers I did with my Freud set looked like I used a dovetail bit. The other advantage to the DW7670 is the 3/32 chipper. Going to be working with some of the undersized wood in the near future and that will be a plus. My old Freud set did not have a 32nd chipper.


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