# Old Tablesaw converted into rolling table



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I had an old small table saw not being used so I decided to convert it into a rolling table that could be used to house my portable thickness planer.

Using scraps of left over wood from various projects and rummaging through my odds and ends bin I manage to come up with a nice addition to my shop.

I bought some 5/16" bolts c/w nuts and washers to attach the rollers. I went to my candy store (AKA Princess Auto) and picked up the casters for $5/each.

The project cost came in at $35.00 not counting the scrap plywood I used and melamine top. I plan on edging the top with some left over spruce and rounding the miter corners round to avoid any sharp corners.

For those that have these old portable table saws left over they make a handy table top base with a few strips of plywood ripped to 3" in width. The stands have pre-drilled holes that accept carriage bolts very nicely.

To attach the base to the legs I bought 4 fence brackets for $1.45 (3" x 3" x 3/4") at RONA (see pictures for details)

If I had to do it over and I think I would of made the base a little larger to make the stand less tippy.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Dan that is good work, using what you have to make something better. I have taken note of the "tippiness" for when I make a rolling base for my Jointer or planner whichever it works ot to be. Good write up and pics.

"tippiness" made up word.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Dan,

Great idea. 

To help with controlling the "tip", use a wider caster wheel.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks I am also going to take the switch out of the saw and re-use it when I build my router table. But I am still trying to decide if this is a good idea because I want to have a larger switch handle to shut off the router in case need to do it in a hurry. I also want to incorporate the router and the shop vac on the same switch so I just need to turn on one switch to power both units.

I will need to look at the specs on the switch to see if I can do this.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> Hi Dan,
> 
> Great idea.
> 
> To help with controlling the "tip", use a wider caster wheel.


Excellent never thought of that. The casters are rated for 300 lbs so maybe I over engineered this one? 


My next project is a rolling plywood storage cart. I am getting tired of moving all my scrap pieces off the wall to get at them so I may be able to use the casters for that project.

Maybe I should be some outriggers for this puppy and make it real stable


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

Nice Dan, 
looks like a very sturdy use of the TS stand!

As to the casters, me-thinks they will present a problem when the thickness planer is in use and maybe a pain to lock them all the time.

Here's one guy's answer to the casters: YouTube - Shop Built Mobile Base

and this conversion: YouTube - Table saw mobile base seems better suited as it would spread the base out further.

The nice thing about both of these, is you probably re-use your casters and make the rest!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I may end up just removing the casters and using a wider piece of plywood on the bottom. One of the things I can improve is to widen the wheel base. The brackets I used to attached the bottom of the feet does not allow me to put the casters on the outside corners of the base and thus adding to the problem of instability.

So if I simply remove the base and put on a wider piece on the bottom it should help. I still have some 3/4" Douglas Fir T &G plywood left over from a flooring job I did so that will be put to use.

I can not use the smaller caster because of the larger crack I have in the garage floor. Have a look at the photo to see what I am talking about. This occurred 4 yrs ago when we had a really dry season. I am hoping to have it mud jacked to close up the gap. But for the present it makes for moving stuff around in the garage difficult and hence why I went with a larger wheel.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*It might me time to use that shop vac and.....*

It might be time to use that shop vac and a long screwdriver to clean out that crack then fill it with patching cement.







available at Lowes and most hardware stores. Pretty good stuff!

The first guy solved that problem by corner triangles attached to the wood frame around the four legs. The legs sat on the wood triangles when lifted by the frame and then when it was directly on the floor, the wood triangles were between the legs and the floor. I imagine one could some pieces metal stock for this purpose as well.

The second guy's design while is more suited for legs that are vertical at the attachment point, is clever in the fact it takes one lever rather than two.

Still, your idea of a bigger piece of plywood would work also and give you a deck underneath it as well. I'm a bit apprehensive about any "drift" the wheels might have while in use.

Don't get me wrong here, Just giving you ideas of alternate methods for that darn sturdy reuse of the legs.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

I'm like many, I want wheels on all the shop equipment,, I have used this way when the table has metal legs,,,it's a real quick way to get the table mobile ..



plus look at the Metal Socket for use with Grip Ring Stem for angle steel frames legs.
http://www.castercity.com/casters-for-wood-floors.htm
http://www.castercity.com/hardwood-floor-furniture-casters.htm

===
=======


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Very simple and functional "Mr. Jigs" 

Even when I used this tablesaw it also gave me grief with almost tipping over while I was sawing wood on it. 

Will post pics of when I get the new base done and report on the stability issue.

Thanks for all the comments so far its nice to see all of us working together to help each other out.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Gerard_sr said:


> It might be time to use that shop vac and a long screwdriver to clean out that crack then fill it with patching cement.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for the reply Gerard_Sr. I was getting to that but its -15 here still and the weather needs to be a little warmer for me to do apply the cement patch. I will vacuum out the crack when it warms up and then apply some caulking to fill the bulk of the crack to allow for expansion and then top it off with the concrete patch cement.

I live in Northern Canada so we get a wide fluctuation of temperature differences here. In one day it can go from -15 at night to +4 degrees Celsius so you can appreciate the expansion issue I have to deal with. ( NO to mention going to the shop and touching cold steel )


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

YIKES on the temperature!

If Canada were a bit warmer, I would consider immigrating, but these old bones don't like the cold. In Pennsylvania, US, I think it's cold, but your area seems much colder!

About the tipping, your method of mounting with the formed steel bracket is very good and could be applied to a wider platform base for stability. I like that. I will have to file that away in my memory for potential use.

About your crack in the floor, I forgot about expansion problems. Might I suggest an alternative method?
Clean out the crack, fill the majority of it with expansion type foam, The last 1/4" or so consider something more pliable like an epoxy or resin based filler. Maybe even topping it off with RTV. If you use what I originally suggested, the expansion might just crack that as well.


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## Barry99 (Feb 10, 2009)

Sears has a replacement dual 110v receptical and on/0ff quick release safety switch with removeable key.It's 15 amps and switch powers both routerand vac same time.


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