# CMT glass panel set



## Hoyett (Oct 6, 2008)

Good morning. I purchased the CMT glass panel set to make 13 upper cabinet doors to finish off my kitchen cabinets. I have all of the parts cut for the doors and am attempting to put the groove in the rails and stiles for the rubber retainer that holds the glass in place. 

The problem I am having is the CMT rubber retainer is not fitting into the groove that was made for it. After almost completely destroying a sample piece with a screw driver and dish soap I finally got a piece to go in.

I did call CMT and they said it is possible that their vendor could have sent them the wrong size rubber strips. They are sending me a sample to see if in fact I do have the wrong size. I almost find that hard to believe but I can't figure out the trick to getting the rubber retainers in place. Does any one know what I am missing here? Please...


Hoyett


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Hi Hoyett,
I don't have the CMT glass panel set and I haven't used their rubber retainer strip..but I have used the rubber glass retainer strip from Custom Service Hardware and I didn't have any trouble getting it to fit in the groove. 

It sounds like either your slot cutter isn't cutting a 1/8" inch groove or the retainer strip is oversized..you should be able to take a measurement to figure out which is off. The only other thing I can think of is maybe your slot is too close to the panel..Can you get the strip to fit in the groove without the glass panel in place? 

Here's a link to the rubber retainer that CSH sells..

http://www.cshardware.com/IW_Products.m4p.pvx?;products_no_tree?company=csh&cat=6073

something else you might want to try is to run the piece back by the slot cutter..that might loosen the slot up just enough to get the strip to fit..if not you can always lower the bit just a little and make another pass.


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## Hoyett (Oct 6, 2008)

Greg,
Thanks for the response. I have tried it with the glass in, out and sideways ( it seems ). I have also measured the strips .160" without any compressing it. I have also measured the groove as well. It's .120" +/- .005" or so. I just want to finish this project befor it gets too cold to spray finish them... Sheesh...

Hoyett


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Hoyett

They should just snap in place BUT if it will not go in easy recut the slot, move the slot cutting bit up or down just a LITTLE bit, use a test board to get it right on the button..  

I would say down just a little bit you don't want it to be proud of the edge of the boards once you put the glass in place and snap in the rubber strips...your glass should be just a little bit smaller than the frame pocket.by 1/16" on all 4 edges.

I should say I have use about 200ft of the rubber and have not run into that error.. 

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Hoyett said:


> Good morning. I purchased the CMT glass panel set to make 13 upper cabinet doors to finish off my kitchen cabinets. I have all of the parts cut for the doors and am attempting to put the groove in the rails and stiles for the rubber retainer that holds the glass in place.
> 
> The problem I am having is the CMT rubber retainer is not fitting into the groove that was made for it. After almost completely destroying a sample piece with a screw driver and dish soap I finally got a piece to go in.
> 
> ...


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## Hoyett (Oct 6, 2008)

Does the glass sit perfectly flush with the groove? or should there be some offset one way or another?

Hoyett


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Hoyett

Once the glass is in place the bottom of the slot should be just at the top of the glass.." flush " or down just a little bit. 
I should note that ALL 3 bits in the CMT set are matched, that's to say they are all the same height, once you use the 1st.bit the router should NOT move up or down.. this will cut all the parts for the door frame right on the button..no sanding needed to get all the parts to come out flush..and right on ..
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Hoyett said:


> Does the glass sit perfectly flush with the groove? or should there be some offset one way or another?
> 
> Hoyett


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Hoyett,
Instead of trying to micro adjust the slot cutter height to get the fit just right I would use some blue painters tape to raise the part up. The painters tape is easy to remove afterwards and doesn't leave any residue..and you will be able to easily repeat the setup again if you need to.

It's about .005" thick so if you layered 3 strips it would make your slot about .140" wide..you can add and remove strips of tape until you get the rubber retainer to fit just right in your setup pieces.


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## Hoyett (Oct 6, 2008)

Bobj3, 
Good afternoon. I just looked at your attached thumbnail and and kind of stumped. My rubber strip does not look like the one in your picture. Mine is more of a straight, flat piece of rubber with a ribbed edge that goes into the groove. Your thumbnail has more of a 90 degree shape. Do I have the wrong strip??? 

Greg,
I could do that to get the job completed quickly. I'm just I guess annoyed at myself that I just can't figure out what I am doing wrong. This is not rocket science, this is why I frustrated.....

Hoyett


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Hoyett

Here's some snapshots of the rubber 
" Do I have the wrong strip??? " you may have
But it may look a bit straight until you snap it into place,like the drawing when it's in place..
Note the door frames, with the rubber in place without the glass. ( cup shape )

http://www.routerforums.com/83408-post13.html

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Hoyett said:


> Bobj3,
> Good afternoon. I just looked at your attached thumbnail and and kind of stumped. My rubber strip does not look like the one in your picture. Mine is more of a straight, flat piece of rubber with a ribbed edge that goes into the groove. Your thumbnail has more of a 90 degree shape. Do I have the wrong strip???
> 
> Greg,
> ...


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## Hoyett (Oct 6, 2008)

Bobj, My strips are the same as the ones you have on the last link that you gave me. So I must be doing something a little bit off it seems. I should be getting the sample from CMT hopefully tomorrow and will know for sure if I have the correct one or not. I'm crossing my fingers...

Hoyett


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Hoyett

I did go out to the shop and go the mic. out hope this helps.

============


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## Hoyett (Oct 6, 2008)

Bobj, you are a wealth of information myfriend...Those are exactly what I have. I think I may have to resort to using silicone to hole my doors in place if I can't figure this out...

Hoyett


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Hoyett

Stop by Rockler and pickup some hard strip molding cut it to size then use the silicone to hold it in place.  it's plastic or you can also make your own out of the same stock as the door frames easy on the router table..
Then it will look like a pro. job..

Just use some 3/8" or 1/2" thick x 4" wide stock, pop in a round over bit do both edges then use the table saw to rip it to size....
If you don't have any 3/8" or 1/2" stock on hand use a rabbit bit 1st. to get it down to 3/8 or 1/2" thick then round over and rip off what you need..then PIN nail in place  don't use a brad nailer it will split it..

pin nailer below at a great price,,,this nailer is so great you will put all the brad nailers you have on the back burner.
It will put in pin nails from 3/8" to 1 " long..and once in place it's hard to see them.. no head to speak about.

Grip 23 Gauge Pin Air Nailer Gun
http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Gauge-Pi...ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1224798861&sr=1-3


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Hoyett said:


> Bobj, you are a wealth of information myfriend...Those are exactly what I have. I think I may have to resort to using silicone to hole my doors in place if I can't figure this out...
> 
> Hoyett


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## Hoyett (Oct 6, 2008)

Bob J. That is actually the best idea yet. I like that better than using the rubber retainers. The only question I have with this is will the glass vibrate against the wood a nd rattle when you open & close the doors" But I love the idea. Thanks..

Hoyett


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Hoyett

A spot or two of the silicone will do the trick..and a pin nails to hold it place until the silicone sets up...the silicone will always be soft or to say will let the glass move just a little bit..and will stop the rattle..just like the rubber strips..

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Hoyett said:


> Bob J. That is actually the best idea yet. I like that better than using the rubber retainers. The only question I have with this is will the glass vibrate against the wood a nd rattle when you open & close the doors" But I love the idea. Thanks..
> 
> Hoyett


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## Hoyett (Oct 6, 2008)

Bob J, consider this subject closed. I think this is a great compromise to what my intentions were to build professionally looking cabinets on a box cabinet budget. Thanks again for the help. I hope one day I will of some assistance to you my friend. Thanks again...

Hoyett


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## Hoyett (Oct 6, 2008)

Ok, almost closed. I was talking with the guy at the millworks shop and he didn't understand why I am having so much problems inserting this strip into the groove. So, I loaded up my small router table and bits and off I went to the millworks shop for a demonstration. Sure enough I made a pass through a piece of stock and he couldn't get the strip in either. We finally ended up having to complete two separate passes with the router bit taking off @ a 16th on the second pass. 

So, he then calls Dave McCormic at CMT/USA and explains the situation to him and now he doesn't believe either one of us. Dave now wants me to send him a sample of my stock with a groove cut in it to see the problem for himself. I think I just want to return the stuff and just pin nail a strip in to hold the doors. This is way too much drama for one project...

Sorry gents, I just had to vent this...


Hoyett


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Hoyett

Hang in Hoyett ,Dave is a great guy, do what he ask you to do,,, you just may end up with a new set for free  then you will have two sets...the squeaky door gets the oil  they backup the bit sets 100% 

I know it can be a PITA but ,if it's worth doing it's worth doing it right ..

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Hoyett said:


> Ok, almost closed. I was talking with the guy at the millworks shop and he didn't understand why I am having so much problems inserting this strip into the groove. So, I loaded up my small router table and bits and off I went to the millworks shop for a demonstration. Sure enough I made a pass through a piece of stock and he couldn't get the strip in either. We finally ended up having to complete two separate passes with the router bit taking off @ a 16th on the second pass.
> 
> So, he then calls Dave McCormic at CMT/USA and explains the situation to him and now he doesn't believe either one of us. Dave now wants me to send him a sample of my stock with a groove cut in it to see the problem for himself. I think I just want to return the stuff and just pin nail a strip in to hold the doors. This is way too much drama for one project...
> 
> ...


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## Hoyett (Oct 6, 2008)

Thanks Bob...

Hoyett


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## Hoyett (Oct 6, 2008)

Ok, We have a conclusion to Hoyett's maddness. The vendor did in fact send CMT the wrong sized panel strips. Which was bugging me as to why Bob's pictures looked like the strips that I had and his worked and mine didn't. Upon closer looking at Bob's picture his strips are different than the original ones that i had had. I just didn't look close enough at the shape of the strip. Sorry Bob for putting you through all of this. But thanks again for all of your help.

Hoyett


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Hoyet

No big deal for me , I'm glad you got the right ones,, and thanks for the tip I didn't know they sold other ones other than the norm size ones...

But now I know and I will make sure to order the right ones also..


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Hoyett said:


> Ok, We have a conclusion to Hoyett's maddness. The vendor did in fact send CMT the wrong sized panel strips. Which was bugging me as to why Bob's pictures looked like the strips that I had and his worked and mine didn't. Upon closer looking at Bob's picture his strips are different than the original ones that i had had. I just didn't look close enough at the shape of the strip. Sorry Bob for putting you through all of this. But thanks again for all of your help.
> 
> Hoyett


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

Bob,

There are two dominant sizes of glass retaining bead available for cabinet doors. The smaller for 1/8" (3.2mm) grooves is what CMT uses and the 9/64" (3.5mm is what Freud uses. Both are available from many suppliers but I believe the 9/64" is the more commonly available.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Charles

Thanks,, 

That's what so great about this forum people like you have the dead on right info..


Thanks again

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Charles M said:


> Bob,
> 
> There are two dominant sizes of glass retaining bead available for cabinet doors. The smaller for 1/8" (3.2mm) grooves is what CMT uses and the 9/64" (3.5mm is what Freud uses. Both are available from many suppliers but I believe the 9/64" is the more commonly available.


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