# Wooden drawer slides



## billyjim (Feb 11, 2012)

I am building cabinets for my router table and table saw. I want to put drawers in the cabinets and I am considering making "L" shaped wooden slides rather than store bought metal extension slides. Just checking to see if anyone has any thoughts on going this route.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

What are your thoughts to keep it from tipping when you pull it out...?


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Wax the guides and they will work great.
Incorporate some sort of stop that will prevent the drawer from tipping. Maybe a guide rail above the drawer that the drawer back will contact if the drawer tries to tip.

The drawers in my new worktable are 36 inches long and slide by using just one or two fingers.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

We used those for years and they are still in use. You will gain a little bit on each side 3/4"-1" by eliminating the metal slides. there are a number of ways to put stops so the drawer doesn't slide out or stops before it tips.
Not a bad way to go.
Herb


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I just remembered that the drawers in my moms kitchen are made that way. And so were the drawers in Blake & JoAnne's kitchen we remodeled.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Nothing wrong with wooden drawer slides I have good luck with them.
But last cabinet I build for the shop I spend the money for full extension slides I really like being able to open the drawer fully.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I'm finishing up a new outfeed table for my TS and it will have quite a few drawers in it and I'll be gluing down strips of HPL where the drawer runners go. There is also a runner above each drawer side that will keep it from tipping until it's quite a ways out but I'm not too worried about that because the drawers will be easy to remove if I need what's at the very back. I've used HPL for slides a few times and they work very well, wear just about forever, and are fairly slippery. If they get sticky you just wax the drawer runners.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I'm finishing up a new outfeed table for my TS and it will have quite a few drawers in it and I'll be gluing down strips of HPL where the drawer runners go. There is also a runner above each drawer side that will keep it from tipping until it's quite a ways out but I'm not too worried about that because the drawers will be easy to remove if I need what's at the very back. I've used HPL for slides a few times and they work very well, wear just about forever, and are fairly slippery. If they get sticky you just wax the drawer runners.


I bought some of that slippery tape at Rocklers and it was kind of spendy, I have used old scrap strips of P-Lam before and it works good too.
Herb


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## billyjim (Feb 11, 2012)

Nickp said:


> What are your thoughts to keep it from tipping when you pull it out...?


Nick I was going to put a stop on the back of the drawer that would catch on the face frame, probably just attach it with one screw so that I could rotate it if I needed to take the drawer out. I haven't tried that but it seems like it would work.


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## billyjim (Feb 11, 2012)

MT Stringer said:


> Wax the guides and they will work great.
> Incorporate some sort of stop that will prevent the drawer from tipping. Maybe a guide rail above the drawer that the drawer back will contact if the drawer tries to tip.
> 
> The drawers in my new worktable are 36 inches long and slide by using just one or two fingers.


Mike what you are showing in the third picture is exactly what I have in mind. Thanks for the tip on waxing...I hadn't thought about that.


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## Belg (Nov 2, 2011)

Herb Stoops said:


> there are a number of ways to put stops so the drawer doesn't slide out or stops before it tips.Herb


Could you tell me more about these please? I've used the piece of wood on the rear with a single screw like described below but would love to hear about other ways. Thanks Pat


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

After waxing the hardwood guides and slots in a couple of drawers that I had made, I nearly dropped the contents because the drawer worked too good. So I put a block like in the drawing. It just hangs low enough to catch the back of the drawer. My face frame is 1-1/2 inches thick (2x4) though. I guess it could hit stuff that's in the drawer but I haven't had an issue. Just snug the screw, so the block can be turned. It's easy to reach in and twist it, to take the drawer out for waxing.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

TenGees said:


> After waxing the hardwood guides and slots in a couple of drawers that I had made, I nearly dropped the contents because the drawer worked too good. So I put a block like in the drawing. It just hangs low enough to catch the back of the drawer. My face frame is 1-1/2 inches thick (2x4) though. I guess it could hit stuff that's in the drawer but I haven't had an issue. Just snug the screw, so the block can be turned. It's easy to reach in and twist it, to take the drawer out for waxing.


I have done that too. Also on the back of the drawer box did the same and after the drawer is inserted reach in and turn them up to catch the face frame.
Also made the back of the cabinet higher so it has to to be tilted up and rotated into the opening,so when the drawer is pulled out the back top catches the face frame.


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