# Using a Router as a Joiner



## asrubin (Jan 1, 2008)

I would like to use a router as a joiner. What type of blade should I use in the router? Can this be accomplished on the router table?
Thanks


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

asrubin said:


> I would like to use a router as a joiner. What type of blade should I use in the router? Can this be accomplished on the router table?
> Thanks


You sure can Allan, using a straight cutter and either a split fence or stick something like a piece of Laminex on the out-feed side side of the fence. The biggest drawback to this system compared to a jointer or thickness/planer is that around 2" is the maximum thickness of the wood that can be accommodated. Planing can also be done with the router hand held using a straight cutter and run the router base against a straight edge, but this is rather messy except for planing the edge of a sheet of panel material.


----------



## asrubin (Jan 1, 2008)

Thanks,


----------



## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

You can also attach a straight edge to your material with double sided tape and then run it over the table with a pattern bit(bearing mounted at the end of the router bit). The bearing runs along the straight edge and the cutter cuts your material.

There's another method that some people use but it is considered too unsafe by many so I won't tell you what it is.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just to add to Harry's post 

3 " is the maximum thickness of stock..
Plus this is one job done on the Horiz.router table that works very well.
Lay the stock down flat and push it over the bit just like a jointer.

=======


----------



## Tom Hintz (Aug 31, 2009)

You can joint with a router both hand-held and in a suitably equipped table. I personally like doing it by hand much of the time but the table process comes in handy at times also.
I have a story with photos and a video on this subject at the link below if that would help.

Jointing with a Router


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

The last one on this page is particularly suitable for jointing. Note the angle of the blade and the stiffness inherent in the thicker size.

Router bits-Super-duty flush trim bits-CMT tools

Cheers

Peter


----------



## Padawan Learner (Oct 12, 2009)

asrubin said:


> I would like to use a router as a joiner. What type of blade should I use in the router? Can this be accomplished on the router table?
> Thanks


Last weekend I had a 8" X 10' piece of rough-cut 5/4 Red Oak that needed edge jointing before I could start cutting down the board into smaller widths on my table saw. My bench jointer was too small for the job, so I rigged up my router table to do the job as noted above with a strip of formica on the outfeed side of my fence and a 2.5" edge trim bit as the cutter.

The result was mixed. While the board was much easier to handle on the router table, the cut was not as smooth as I hoped. It was straight, though, so ultimately got a fairly even cut when I went to the rip fence on my table saw. 

I think you need to be careful about feed rate and bit speed with the harder woods. Otherwise it will have a washboard look to it using the router table. Use some scrap of the same material and thickness to test your cut, and adjust accordingly.


----------



## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

I often use a router as a jointer since building a horizontal router table which makes it ideal when jointing small pieces such when making wooden toys.

Lee


----------



## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

I've done another frugal solution in my old router table. 2 pieces of melamine cut to size for the infeed and outfeed fences. Then I've got these 2 fence clamps from Rockler that you drill a hole into the aux fence and it clamps to the existing fence. I offset the outfeed fence with some hard sticky plastic evenly so that it raises off the fence about 1/32 or so. Then the router has about a 2-1/2 inch straight bit with 1/2in. shank. I sold an old Delta jointer I briefly had because it drove me up the wall, and I figured using this setup was at least just as good for what I needed to do without taking up a lot of my limited floorspace. I'm currently in the market and hot on the trail for the Kreg precision router table which has a pretty good looking way to achive the same effect with the 2 offset fences.
Cheers.
Steve


----------



## bobfowler (Mar 10, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Just to add to Harry's post
> 
> 3 " is the maximum thickness of stock..
> Plus this is one job done on the Horiz.router table that works very well.
> ...


Not to hijack the thread, but...

I've been thinking about the MLCS horizontal table for a while now. I have a spare DW-610 in my shop and have often thought it would be a good match. Opinions?


----------



## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

I just rigged up a fence with split faces on it. I placed laminate behind the outfeed. I understand the process but my edge, while being smooth, is not straight. I get a bow (outward) in the center of the edge. 
Do I want the cutter perfectly flush with the outfeed or do I want it a little "out" from the outfeed plane.
Any ideas what my problem is?
The cutter is flush, but when I run my board through now, the board misses the cutter. That is why I ask if I need the cutter "out" more? 
I don't get it.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

I don't have the DeWalt but I have the MLCS setup and I don't see why the DeWalt would not work well on the horizontal MLCS table..
You will be amazed how many jobs it can do ..and safe..
======



bobfowler said:


> Not to hijack the thread, but...
> 
> I've been thinking about the MLCS horizontal table for a while now. I have a spare DW-610 in my shop and have often thought it would be a good match. Opinions?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Daryl

It works just like the Jointers, that's to say the out feed will take the load of the stock and keep it true to the cutter once the stock as been removed.

========
*
*




sofasurfer said:


> I just rigged up a fence with split faces on it. I placed laminate behind the outfeed. I understand the process but my edge, while being smooth, is not straight. I get a bow (outward) in the center of the edge.
> Do I want the cutter perfectly flush with the outfeed or do I want it a little "out" from the outfeed plane.
> Any ideas what my problem is?
> The cutter is flush, but when I run my board through now, the board misses the cutter. That is why I ask if I need the cutter "out" more?
> I don't get it.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

sofasurfer said:


> I just rigged up a fence with split faces on it. I placed laminate behind the outfeed. I understand the process but my edge, while being smooth, is not straight. I get a bow (outward) in the center of the edge.
> Do I want the cutter perfectly flush with the outfeed or do I want it a little "out" from the outfeed plane.
> Any ideas what my problem is?
> The cutter is flush, but when I run my board through now, the board misses the cutter. That is why I ask if I need the cutter "out" more?
> I don't get it.


Daryl...

The jointer setup on the router table requires careful alignment. I'm not trying to make it sound difficult, it just requires care. 

First, the two fences must be perfectly parallel, but offset with the outlet side of the bit *slightly* in front of the infeed. Here's a process; you may need to tweak it for your table.

To set it up, first perfectly align the fence sides for co-planar. They must be carefully set 90* to the table and in good alignment. Then insert a thin shim (a playing card works well) between the outfeed offset to bring it forward a bit. Depending upon your fence, you'll likely want to insert a card in 2 or more places.

Then set the bit so the outer part of the cutting edge is carefully aligned with the outfeed side. You are now ready to joint.

Hen cutting, as with a jointer, as soon as there is a stable amount of wood on the outfeed table, move your hands there and pull the wood through rather than pushing it from behind the blade. Failing to do this will cause a bow-out on the wood.


----------



## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

I made a little progress and now see my problem.
I found that my infeed face was every so slightly bowed. I replaced it and the edge is much better. However the edge is still bowed.

I see that the method to use is to shim it here and there as needed in order to get perfect alignment and parallelism. The hard part is deciding where to shim. So it is best to have a dedicated jointing fence which, after getting it set up is never changed.

As for the relation of the cutter to the outfeed fence, when the cutter is perfectly aligned, the board will enter the outfeed fence perfectly. Just using a straight edge across the fence and touching the cutter is not good enough. If there is a gap between the board and the outfeed fence, or if the board hits the outfeed fence, the outfeed fence is not set properly to the cutter.


----------



## Swallow (Jan 13, 2010)

Why then not build a dedicated fence out of mdf the full length of your tables width and 90deg to the table. Then apply a layer of Formica or other laminate to the outfeed side of the router bit after which you could simply cut out a section of fence to fit your router bit. This way the fences would be absolutely parallel. Not only that but it's Cheap.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Router Workshop: jointer101102

easy to make a jointer fence on the table saw..

=======


----------



## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

Swallow. I likely will go that route or very similar.
Thanks.


----------

