# correct way to use door edge bits



## dgill53 (Mar 29, 2009)

Hi Folks,
A noob here with a few questions on the proper way to use a door edge router bit. This is my first attempt at making raised panel doors and I'm fairly happy with the way they came out, but now I want to put a raised door edge profile around the doors and can't figure out how to do that. This bit doesn't have any bearings so I must use the fence, however when running a test piece through it takes material off so that it doesn't hit the outfeed side of the fence, as I continue past the infeed fence the piece plunges against the bit, screwing up the cut. I'm guessing I need to shim the outfeed side of the fence, right? Another dilemma, to use this bit the work has to be face down. They're raised panels for pete's sake, how do you do that without them rocking on the table? Sorry for the long post, but if I can't figure this out, I'll just leave the edges and put some knobs on. Thanks.
Dan


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

If I understand you correctly, you've made raised-panel doors with the conventional rail/stile frame, and you want to repeat the raised-panel profile on the outer edge of the frame. ???

If so, if the raised-panel bit is properly positioned, at the maximum cut depth, you'll only be cutting essentially one corner of the frame, leaving both an area of the face and the outer edge of the frame intact. (Initial cuts will leave even more of the face, and more of the edge uncut.)


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## dgill53 (Mar 29, 2009)

Thanks for the reply, Ralph. No, I purchased a router bit that routes a lip around the edge of the door so you can get your finger behind it to open the door. I'm concerned because the raised panel itself is not perfectly flat and rocks a little if I were to put it flat on a table. If it rocks while I'm trying to route the edge I'm sure I'll screw up the door. Not having any experience with this I think I'll just put some knobs on it and call it a day.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Aj, OK, you're routing the backside edge. I'd just flip the door over, clamp it to the bench, and use an edge guide to do it "by hand" (not in the router table).


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dan

Just my 2 cents,,,

If it rocks on the work bench start over with a new door frame..,it will be a real challenge to get it hang right on the face frame/cabinet...I know it's more work but like they say junk in junk out  and the door will be in place for a very long time..and it will drive you nuts every time you see it..




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dgill53 said:


> Thanks for the reply, Ralph. No, I purchased a router bit that routes a lip around the edge of the door so you can get your finger behind it to open the door. I'm concerned because the raised panel itself is not perfectly flat and rocks a little if I were to put it flat on a table. If it rocks while I'm trying to route the edge I'm sure I'll screw up the door. Not having any experience with this I think I'll just put some knobs on it and call it a day.


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## Amana Tool (Jan 22, 2008)

Hi Dan,
I'd stick with the router table on this one. Since the face of the panel is slightly warped, I suggest attaching shims to the face of the door frame with double stick duct tape (I use it often to hold templates, it's strong stuff). The thickness of the shim only needs to be enough to lift the warped panel off the table. Assuming that the door frame isn't warped, this should work fine.

Regarding the second issue, it sounds like you're getting snipe. There are two ways to avoid snipe when routing the entire edge of the stock. The first is to shim behind the outfeed fence so that the fence supports the stock after it is shaped. The second method (the one I prefer) is to adjust the fence on the router table forward so that it removes less stock. In other words, the face of the fence should be tangent to the smallest cutting circle on the bit. This requires a couple of test cuts but setup is really easy.

Lonnie Bird
Amana Tool


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## dgill53 (Mar 29, 2009)

Thanks to all who replied. I think I'll go with Lonnie's suggestion with putting a shim across the frames as they're pretty straight. I have some 1/2 inch MDF that I can cut some strips out of. It'll be a pain but I think it's the only solution. One good thing about this project is my wife saw the problem I'm having so I may get a thickness planer out of it! Any suggestions for one? Thanks again.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Dan, there are a couple of things that aren't clear from the discussion.

First, which bit are you using? The one's I'm familiar with for this purpose don't modify the full edge of the door frame, but rather just cut a lip on the back side - essentially a curved rabbet..

Second, what is the source of the "wobble"? Is it from the raised panel surface sitting proud of the door frame? Or, is it caused by the frame itself not being flat? 

As to the *thickness planer*, how much space do you have in your shop, and how much budget can you squeeze from the cookie jar?


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## dgill53 (Mar 29, 2009)

The raised panel sits about 1/4 inch above the frames and are slight cupped. These were bought at a home store ( not Home Depot) and were packaged nicely and even though I thought I checked them for flatness at the store all but two seemed to cup slightly in the week I had them in my shop. I thought I read somewhere you should let your wood acclimate to your environment, which is what I did. Go figure. Anyway, I have a 720 sq.ft. shop and could get away with spending around $300 for a planer. I don't mind buying used and have been checking craigslist almost daily. No luck, so far.
Dan


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

A $300 budget for the planer should be OK for a bench-top model.

The 12 1/2" Delta TP305, for example, is around $280 new:

Delta Machinery|Porter Cable Product Details for 12-1/2" Portable Planer - Model # TP305


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

" The raised panel sits about 1/4 inch above the frames "

Not the norm,,they should be flush with the door frame the norm..the frame will help keep them from cupping sometimes,,but if you have boards that set to cup it's time to rip them down and glue them up for the panel(s) ..BUT if they are cupping they can pull the frame out of square and it will rock...it was once a tree and it wants to be a tree again..it's not dead and it's always on the move in a small way...

A planing the boards may not help in this case you will just end up with thinner boards the norm.. it's always best to use stock as soon as you can,,in the lumber yards they sometimes have tons of stock stacked up on top of it to keep it flat until you get it home..buying dry stock is a big deal..
You can sometimes run your hand over the stock and it will be wet or damp that's the stock you don't want to take home..the end grain is a big tip off,,tree sap is a big tip off ,it's not dry..


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dgill53 said:


> The raised panel sits about 1/4 inch above the frames and are slight cupped. These were bought at a home store ( not Home Depot) and were packaged nicely and even though I thought I checked them for flatness at the store all but two seemed to cup slightly in the week I had them in my shop. I thought I read somewhere you should let your wood acclimate to your environment, which is what I did. Go figure. Anyway, I have a 720 sq.ft. shop and could get away with spending around $300 for a planer. I don't mind buying used and have been checking craigslist almost daily. No luck, so far.
> Dan


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## dgill53 (Mar 29, 2009)

Sorry for the delay in replying, Bob. The panels I got from the home store were already glued up and flat when I got them, maybe they didn't like the low humidity in my shop i don't know, but I've worked around that. Not perfect, but not bad. The panel raising bit I have doesn't have an undercutter profile on it therefore the raised panel will stand proud of the door frame....unless, I'm using it wrong. As I stated I'm a noob so anything is possible.
Dan


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dan

It's not big deal but you may be "using it wrong" the edge on the panel should have a 1/4" wide tang ,almost dead center of the panel,,,it's had to get it right without the back cutter but it can be done,,with the same bit,it takes a full pass of the front of the panel a 1/2 pass on the back side of the panel to get that 1/4" thick stock in the center..but you can use 1/2" to 5/8" thick stock and do the same thing... many do it this way to save money on the panels..most don't look hard in side the doors anyway 

That will put the panel flush with the door frame.. the norm..

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dgill53 said:


> Sorry for the delay in replying, Bob. The panels I got from the home store were already glued up and flat when I got them, maybe they didn't like the low humidity in my shop i don't know, but I've worked around that. Not perfect, but not bad. The panel raising bit I have doesn't have an undercutter profile on it therefore the raised panel will stand proud of the door frame....unless, I'm using it wrong. As I stated I'm a noob so anything is possible.
> Dan


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