# Miter T-track attachment to the router table



## Chase (Feb 25, 2011)

I am building a router table with a t-slot/miter gauge slot for my shop. I am at the point where I plan to install the miter slot/t-track into a routed grove and was wondering how others have attached it. It calls for wood screws inside the t-slot into the table. But I am thinking that the t-slot will take alot of stress with various jigs and perhaps it would be better to epoxy the t-slot into the grove. Just looking for some experience with others in the building of their tables.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Chase said:


> I am building a router table with a t-slot/miter gauge slot for my shop. I am at the point where I plan to install the miter slot/t-track into a routed grove and was wondering how others have attached it. It calls for wood screws inside the t-slot into the table. But I am thinking that the t-slot will take alot of stress with various jigs and perhaps it would be better to epoxy the t-slot into the grove. Just looking for some experience with others in the building of their tables.


Hi Chase - I assume the table is MDF. IMO the absolute best way is through holes with machine screws, flat washers and nuts. That said I have used SPAX screws in MDF successfully. I'm not wild about epoxy as it is difficult to get spread thinly and evenly and also is VERY permanent. Should you ever want to remove or change that track for some reason, something will get torn up. 
Good Luck


----------



## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

If you're lazy like me, and don't want to fuss with a miter track, don't install one. You can easily clamp featherboards, etc to the top, and use a sled that rides the fence or template guide.


----------



## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

I agree with Doug. You can attach in different ways with clamps, and for side or upper uses for safty accessories, attach them to the fence. Use clamps, or install a sacrifical fence to the table fence.


----------



## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

I agree no miter slot on either of my router tables.


----------



## amaonline (Jan 1, 2011)

I agree...I don't use a miter slot either.


----------



## bstadtler (Jul 19, 2010)

miter slots rule
Go for the slot


----------



## Chase (Feb 25, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Hi Chase - I assume the table is MDF. IMO the absolute best way is through holes with machine screws, flat washers and nuts. That said I have used SPAX screws in MDF successfully. I'm not wild about epoxy as it is difficult to get spread thinly and evenly and also is VERY permanent. Should you ever want to remove or change that track for some reason, something will get torn up.
> Good Luck


Thanks John...I appreciate your response. The table is MDF laminated on both sides. I want to have a Miter Track for stile & Cope jointing. I agree with you on the permanence of the Epoxy....just was wondering what others have done. What mechanical fasteners would you suggest besides SPAX.....? 
Thanks in advance.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

ChaseB said:


> Thanks John...I appreciate your response. The table is MDF laminated on both sides. I want to have a Miter Track for stile & Cope jointing. I agree with you on the permanence of the Epoxy....just was wondering what others have done. What mechanical fasteners would you suggest besides SPAX.....?
> Thanks in advance.


Hi Chase, I used #8-32 flat head machine screws with nuts and fender washers on my drill press table. The Woodpeck table top I have came with the combo track and it used 1/4-20 machine screws with nuts and flat washers. Wood screws will work fine but drill pilot holes close to the root size of the screw. MDF likes to "erupt" around screws if you try to use them as self tapping. This will leave a little hump around the screw and won't let the track sit down flush. 
Are you planning a slot guided sled for the cope and stick joints?


----------



## Chase (Feb 25, 2011)

Thanks John: I was planning on drilling counter sinked holes for the wood screws into the MDF.....the 'pillowing' has happened to me before. 
I didn't think about a machine screw through bolted. The table is 1.5 inches thick and with the track and washers it might be a long bolt and with a #8 diameter...wouldn't that have a tendency to break or twist under pressure? And I was planning on building a sled myself....I have a template that looks good. I have been trying to build my tables, sleds and push sticks for practice as I am a rookie.
Chase


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

ChaseB said:


> Thanks John: I was planning on drilling counter sinked holes for the wood screws into the MDF.....the 'pillowing' has happened to me before.
> I didn't think about a machine screw through bolted. The table is 1.5 inches thick and with the track and washers it might be a long bolt and with a #8 diameter...wouldn't that have a tendency to break or twist under pressure? And I was planning on building a sled myself....I have a template that looks good. I have been trying to build my tables, sleds and push sticks for practice as I am a rookie.
> Chase


Hi Chase, #8 or even #6 are readily available in lengths over an inch. Table is 1.5 thick, minus 1/2" for the track dado.. well within reason. Wood screws will work just fine also. There really isn't, or shouldn't be much pressure on the track, the screws just hold it in place. The only time you would really get any pressure on those screws is using a hold down clamp and then one would really have to crank it down to hurt anything.

Just one other thing I just remembered. Last time I installed a track in MDF, I installed the track and screws. Then removed the track and screws and shaved the little humps from around the holes with a chisel. Then put a drop or two of CA adhesive in each hole and reinstalled everything.
Good Luck


----------

