# Worn push blocks.



## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I have three old push blocks that came with my used jointer and the push blocks have about had it. I took off the rubber padding and cleaned every thing up and was planning on putting sand paper in it's place. I think this would work fine but I am open to suggestions on using something else. What say you?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

How about rubber carpet-underlay...the good stuff, not that stuff made from foam chips. You should be able to pick up scraps for free.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I found that those push blocks are too slippery. I made one with a hook on the back like a table saw pusher and I put a door handle on it and it works way better. I can post a pic if you want.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I found that those push blocks are too slippery. I made one with a hook on the back like a table saw pusher and I put a door handle on it and it works way better. I can post a pic if you want.


Chuck I did have a hook on one of them but took it off so I could clean every thing up. Maybe I was using it wrong but the hook was good till I switched to the front table. I would have one in my left hand with no hook and the one with the hook in my right hand. When I went to the front table with my right hand the block didn't want to do right.

I hope you can understand that I can't. :laugh2:


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Have you tried the drawer liner/shelf liner rubber stuff...it's the same stuff used on boats to keep things from sliding.

The same stuff is available for putting pieces on to freehand route...

this is an example... https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/st...e=&network=g&gclid=CKfZ8qXM7dICFUZYDQodoWUHdw

http://www.rockler.com/non-slip-router-mat

also Home Depot sold as under-rug stuff...

You could line the bottom of a block of your preference...


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Don - was your hook fixed to the push block or was it free floating? If it is free floating and allowed to slide up and down, or more specifically, drop through gravity, then when you move to the outfeed side, it would slide up and out of the way. When you move to the infeed side it would drop into "push" mode. Hope that makes sense.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Get some GGrippers...............:smile::smile::smile:

Herb


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> Get some GGrippers...............:smile::smile::smile:
> 
> Herb


Exactly Herb - I have one and use it on my table saw and jointer. On the jointer I use the Grrrrpr in conjunction with a regular push block. The Grrpr may be expensive but I think it's worth every cent.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> Get some GGrippers...............:smile::smile::smile:
> 
> Herb


...got two...love 'em both...don't know which I love more...gotta give 'em names, maybe that'll help me choose...LOL... :grin:


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I'm a gripper fan myself. I have a sheet of high friction rubber sheet that could be applied and that would work. A gravity powered dorp down hook would work OK, but having a fixed hook on the end would require you to lay it down exactly right when you shift past the cutter head. I have two shops, with milling tools (jointer, planer, resaw bandsaw) in the garage and all other tools in the shop. So I still use simple blocks on the jointer. I have two Grippers in the shop, but have other priorities higher on my list than grippers in the garage right now.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Get some Grrippers. If you just can't throw those old ones away, screw them to jigs for handles or use some automotive rubber Weatherstrip cement to glue part of an old computer mouse pad material to them, but make sure to glue the top side of the mouse pad to the base of the plastic push block. The foam base material of a mouse pad is very similar to the original bottom surface of the push blocks. They will still be good for some things, but the Grrippers are better and safer.


Charley


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

hawkeye10 said:


> I have three old push blocks that came with my used jointer and the push blocks have about had it. I took off the rubber padding and cleaned every thing up and was planning on putting sand paper in it's place. I think this would work fine but I am open to suggestions on using something else. What say you?


best by a long shot...
Shepherd self stick anti skid furniture pads..
or 
stair anti skid tape..
any big box...
http://www.shepherdhardware.com/html/651.html


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

For anybody wants to go scavenging (I've mentioned this in the past) check out the folks that manufacture gaskets. They throw away an amazing amount of high tech scrap into their dumpsters; high friction, no friction, you name it.
Dumpster diving! 
You might want to check with them first...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Lots of suggestions, but I'm going to skip the dumpster dive.:haha:


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Well..._you're_ no fun!


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> Lots of suggestions, but I'm going to skip the dumpster dive.:haha:


I am going to skip it to Tom. I could get in there but might not be able to get out. :laugh2:


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

vchiarelli said:


> Don - was your hook fixed to the push block or was it free floating? If it is free floating and allowed to slide up and down, or more specifically, drop through gravity, then when you move to the outfeed side, it would slide up and out of the way. When you move to the infeed side it would drop into "push" mode. Hope that makes sense.


"Free floating hook" That is a good idea Vince.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

I have a couple of push pads that the rubber had dried up and turned hard as a rock on, making them useless. I replaced the rubber pad with some I picked up at(I think) Harbor Freight. 1/4" rubber, just cut to fit.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Perhaps the most important aspect of this thread is the fact that Don recognized the fact that the push block was worn out and in need of repair/replacement in the first place. Far to often equipment is pushed beyond its useful life. Maintaining a safe shop requires due diligence and a certain level of knowledge regarding any tools useful limitations and lifespans.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I am thinking about getting the GRR-RIP Block but I can only use it for the jointer and band saw. That leaves the table saw. So all of these cost a lot so you guys that have them what would you buy? You need to pretend your broke like me. :crying:

https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIP-BLOC...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E550N8GTNCYXVA4G9ECM


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## richjh (Jan 14, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Have you tried the drawer liner/shelf liner rubber stuff...it's the same stuff used on boats to keep things from sliding.
> 
> also Home Depot sold as under-rug stuff...
> 
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

These are my most used pushers. The sacrificial ones can be used many times by sawing off the used part. The GRIPPER is an essential safety tool in every shop.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

hawkeye10 said:


> I am thinking about getting the GRR-RIP Block but I can only use it for the jointer and band saw. That leaves the table saw. So all of these cost a lot so you guys that have them what would you buy? You need to pretend your broke like me. :crying:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIP-BLOC...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E550N8GTNCYXVA4G9ECM


Why is the GRRip Block not useable on the table saw?

Anyway, I've got the GR-200 model and I use it on the jointer and the table saw: You can also get a 1/8" leg for it for ripping thin strips while keeping everything under control.

GRR-RIPPER Comparison - MICROJIG - Work Smarter


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

vchiarelli said:


> Why is the GRRip Block not useable on the table saw?[/url]


The GRR-Ripper is designed to safely go over the blade without making contact. Also with its height, it keeps your hand well away from the spinning blade. The GRRIp Block isn't made to go over the blade and has a much lower profile, which brings your hand closer to the blade. Also, it is natural for the the GRR-Ripper pads to get nicked up over time. You can replace the legs individually, where the block would need to be completely replaced.

I have a GRR-Ripper I keep at the table saw, I have two Grrip Blocks at the jointer, and two more Grrip Block at the router table. I also use the block for resawing at the bandsaw. I will also note, I have not paid full price for any of them. I tend to buy them at shows or at Woodcraft bag sales.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

vchiarelli said:


> Why is the GRRip Block not useable on the table saw?
> 
> Anyway, I've got the GR-200 model and I use it on the jointer and the table saw: You can also get a 1/8" leg for it for ripping thin strips while keeping everything under control.
> 
> GRR-RIPPER Comparison - MICROJIG - Work Smarter


Vince you can use it at the TS but not as much as the one that is made for the TS. I guess I am right.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

hawkeye10 said:


> I am thinking about getting the GRR-RIP Block but I can only use it for the jointer and band saw. That leaves the table saw. So all of these cost a lot so you guys that have them what would you buy? You need to pretend your broke like me. :crying:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIP-BLOC...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E550N8GTNCYXVA4G9ECM


Holy Moly, hadn't seen that one before. I have 2 of the big ones plus a bunch of accessoryies and am into them for well over $200.
Think I will pass on this one.
Herb


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Herb Stoops said:


> Holy Moly, hadn't seen that one before. I have 2 of the big ones plus a bunch of accessoryies and am into them for well over $200.
> Think I will pass on this one.
> Herb


Just having a little fun Herb. :smile:


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Herb,

That is a fairly new model from Micro Jig. It works well for certain occasions like jointing or resawing on the band saw. It can be used for the table saw too, but I prefer the older Gr200 model (I have 3) and use them a lot. I don't own one of these new ones yet.

Charley


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

@MikeMa @hawkeye10

I was envisioning using the GRRpr block in addition to using the version 100 or 200, but never over the blade.
I've got the GRR200 and like Mike, I bought mine at a woodworking show, so not full price


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Over the blade of my Unisaw is where I use my Grripper 200 units the most. Hand over hand feeding of long boards requires towo Grrippers, but I also use them like you when pushing wide stock and not bridging over the blade, but any push block that also holds the work down can also be used for this. Bridging the blade with the Grripper gives you the ability to push both the stock and the off cut together, keeping the narrow off cut feeding past the blade safely while keeping the Grripper and the board held tight and square against the fence. A little trick for the most accurate cut is to place the Gripper on the stock about 1/2" away from the fence and while pressing it down, slide the Grripper over against the fence. This will push the board tight against the fence and hold it there all the way through the cut, making the cut much more accurate. If you do this, both the board and the off cut should exit the blade with a gap between them that is exactly the width of the saw blade. You can then continue to hold this down pressure and move both pieces of wood around to the side and then back toward you. Then remove the Grripper and your pieces while they are in a safe area away from the blade. By hanging onto the Grripper through this whole process, your hand and fingers remain safe. Reaching over the blade without holding onto the Grripper is very dangerous because your hand has nothing to guide it and it may strike the spinning blade. 

One of my three Grrippers has the narrow leg frequently removed so I can use it on myb router table. This keeps it from hitting the bit when edge routing. With the open edge of the Grripper's base against the fence and the two larger legs pressing down on the board I can safely guide the board past the router bit. This has been a wonderful addition to my router table. Having a third Grripper lets me leave the side piece off for routing, but you could just remove the narrow side piece from a Grripper 200 when doing this and then put it back on afterward to use with your saw. A third Grripper isn't necessary, just more convenient for me. 

Micro Jig's training DVD is a good investment, but in my opinion it should be included with each Grripper sold, so people will learn to use the Grripper properly as well as learn all of it's features and capabilities, but the safety training videos from the DVD are available on the Internet. Here is one of them. https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/...267e0dba508c5f330f31ab78dc7d9dc2&action=click

Charley


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Charley - when I purchased my Grrpr 200 it came with a DVD, but the link you posted has good videos and anyone who has any doubts about the Grrpr should watch those vids.

The other day, Micro Jig had a Facebook live session, lasting about an hour. Not sure the name of the individual, but he was a technical expert with Micro Jig and demonstrated the use of all their products, while answering questions, including their newest products, the clamps and the dado jig. They do have some innovative products.

I've used my Grrpr for quite a while now, and although I was a little leary at first about running my hand directly over the blade of my table saw, (I had always been taught not to get your hands within 6" of the blade) I don't believe I'd ever get rid of the Grrpr. When I use it on my jointer, the stickiness of the pads gives me that extra comfort level, knowing they won't slide.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Vince,

I too was taught the 6" rule by my uncle over 60 years ago, and when I first bought a Grripper, it took me almost 6 months to get comfortable using it because it was requiring my hand to go over the blade and well into the 6" danger zone that I was so strongly taught to avoid. It was just mentally not an acceptable thing to do for me.

Then I was building a horse barn for my grand daughter, (a kind of doll house, but for plastic toy horses) and I needed to make a lot of corner molding and thin strips of poplar as narrow as 1/8" thick. I was having trouble with my shop built thin strip ripping jig, so decided to use the Grripper. I was very worried and extra careful at first, but gained confidence in the jig and myself after using it for a while. The 6" rule in my head "Never, under any circumstances, allow your hands to get within 6" of a spinning blade" now has "except when using a Grripper" added to it. My uncle died 5 years ago (96) and I wish that he could have seen and used a Grripper before he died. Once he understood the Grripper and how to use it I'm certain that he would have approved of it. He was a carpenter/cabinet maker for most of his working years, and he still had all 10, so I think that he also learned that 6" rule when he was young, and then practiced it during all of his working years. 

The young guy doing the demo in the beginning of the video in my link is the son of the inventor/owner' of Micro Jig and usually is the one doing the demos at The Woodworking Shows. 

Charley


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

CharleyL said:


> Vince,
> 
> I too was taught the 6" rule by my uncle over 60 years ago, and when I first bought a Grripper, it took me almost 6 months to get comfortable using it because it was requiring my hand to go over the blade and well into the 6" danger zone that I was so strongly taught to avoid. It was just mentally not an acceptable thing to do for me.
> 
> ...


I wish we had wood working shows here. I bet it's been 20 years or more since we have had a show. They had it in down town Nashville where parking is very high and as I remember the price to get in the show was high. It cost $25 or $30 before you ever got in the door. Also going to down town Nashville is a hassle. I think all this is the reason the shows didn't do to good.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

No shows in Charlotte, NC any more either, and probably for the same reason, and they could have as much space for 1/2 the cost with free parking just 15 miles outside Charlotte. Many attendees drive 75 miles or more to go to these shows, so it wouldn't matter much to them. The Klingspore Woodworking Shop show in Hickory, NC every October is the big one in this area now. It's held in the Hickory Convention Center. Parking is free and so is the show. About 5 hotels surround it within easy walking distance, so if you come a long ways, it's easy once you get there.

Charley


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

CharleyL said:


> No shows in Charlotte, NC any more either, and probably for the same reason, and they could have as much space for 1/2 the cost with free parking just 15 miles outside Charlotte. Many attendees drive 75 miles or more to go to these shows, so it wouldn't matter much to them. The Klingspore Woodworking Shop show in Hickory, NC every October is the big one in this area now. It's held in the Hickory Convention Center. Parking is free and so is the show. About 5 hotels surround it within easy walking distance, so if you come a long ways, it's easy once you get there.
> 
> Charley


Man that sounds really nice. I would love to go to a show like that. When our daughter and her family lived in Atlanta I went to a show at the World Trade Center. That was some kind of show that everyone should see. Those companies spent millions just setting their demonstrations up for ""me to see"". :grin: I spent the day there and didn't get to see hardly any of it because it's so big. When in Atlanta I always enjoyed going to Highland Hardware. I would shop at the hardware store and the ladies would shop at all the stores up and down the street. Then we would eat. They had a lot of good places to eat.


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