# Blind Dados on a Router Table



## High Life (Jan 25, 2007)

Hi, In the process of purchasing a Rockler router table with lift, and my first project will be to build some cabinet door frames (euro style with a 1/4" plywood panel).

I intend to biscuit join the rails and stiles, and would like to use the router table to cut blind dados in the rails and stiles to accept the 1/4" plywood panel.

All advice is very much appreciated (bit type, how to cut blind dados, good jigs or set up options, etc...)

Thanks very much!


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Seems like I've seen Bob & Rick do that before... Marking masking tape (on the fence) where the cutting limits are... and only moving That far.

I think we will get a clarification soon... Someone will do it...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

High Life

Well to start with I don't Recommend using biscuit joins on the rails and stiles on cabinet doors they just can't take the work out doors get over the years.

Pick up a matched set of a R & S set or you can use a T & G joint that will do it also if you want the sq. look for the door.
Both sets will put in the slot for 1/4" thick plywood. 

Here's a link for a set of R & S at a great price and also a T & G set.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2pc-1-2-SH-Bits...2206653QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/2pc-1-2-SH-Trad...1501454QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-1-4-Shank-...1823253QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem
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BUT if you still want to use the biscuit joins pick up a 1/4" slot cutter from the same guy on eBay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/1PC-1-2-SH-Slot...0801005QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem


The use to stop blocks on the router table fence, move your stock to the end of the pass and clamp the block to the fence now move the stock to the start of the pass and clamp one more block in place, once you have the fence zero in on the bearing push your stock into the fence and start the pass push the stock to the end stop block on the pass and pull it away from the fence, the blocks should be set 1/2" from the end(s) of the stock so you can have a blind slot.

You can use a standard 1/4" bit (drop and slot) but it's real work out for the bit and the router and slot cutter will do it easy and clean.

Now put in your 1/4" plywood panel and put your biscuits in place, now tap and clamp the door up for 2 hours,besure to use a Sq. when you clamp it up.
Try not to get any glue in the panel slot when you put in the biscuits in rails & stiles and the panel must be free to move just a bit,it's true plywood is stable unlike real hardwood but it will crack over time if it's glue in place.
One move note** besure to put on the stain b/4 you put it all together,it's hard to keep the glue out of the joints or to say off the ralis & stiles and plywood. 
If you get glue on the R & S you just sealed it and it will NOT take the true stain.

Bj


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I answered your question under introductions on how to mark your fence and use stop blocks.


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## High Life (Jan 25, 2007)

Thanks for the information guys!

R&S tongue and groove bits (vs. biscuit joints) it is! :sold:


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## High Life (Jan 25, 2007)

Forgot to ask.

Will a PC 690 series (1 3/4 hp I believe) router be able to move a r/s toungue and groove bit through 3/4 inch birch adequately without having to "sneak up on" the cut?

I'd really like to set the table up one time per cut type and run all the rails/stiles consecutively, respectively.

That being said, bigger picture question: Is this an adequate power router for most cuts, or should I really be considering a larger motor altogether?

Thanks again,

HL


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Funny you should ask that this weekend as I will be mounting a 690 on one of my tables. I will try it and let you know how it flies. You should have no problems as long as you dont try and take too big a cut in one pass.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi HL

I have the PC 690 in two of my router tables and they do a good job with the R & S bits, I do run the speed down a bit when I run them, about 18,000 rpm.because most are about 2 " to 2 1/2" in dia.

Use a hold down block, clamped off the fence to hold them down to the table.
A scrap block will do this job fine, set it so it just sits on top of the stock,so the stock can run free under it but not lift up.(a true 2 x 4 x 16" will do this job)

Here's one more tip,,,make all your cope cuts on the rails then make all your pattern cuts on your stiles (on both sides) then split the stock on the table saw so you have a pair of both this way they will match.
Plus you should not need a sled to help hold the stock sq. to the fence and push block will do it just fine.
One more tip,,,,put in a rubber grommet in the base of the collet of the router chuck,press it in the bottom, this will set the height of the bit for you when you switch cutters, most R & S are matched,that's to say the cutters are the same height from the bottom of the shank.

The normal size is 2 7/16" wide for the R & S, so if you want to end up with a pair start off with 5" wide stock,,,,,then rip it to size.
To cut it to size b/4 you put on the cope cuts... size ,use -4" ,that's to say if you want the door to be 12 wide x 18" long, you would cut the stiles at 8" long the rails would be cut at 18" long.
If you are going to have 1/2" over lay/hang (the norm) be sure to add that in.

The cope cut is the bit with the bearing in the center, (it's almost always used across the grain of the stock ) the pattern bit is the one with the bearing on the top or bottom and is used always with the grain of the wood.

Make your cope cuts 1st. with a 1/8" lip, (from the table side)(use a 1/8" brass setup bar to do this) the norm on 3/4" stock then popin the pattern bit and it should be dead on when you put on the pattern cut.

Make a test part b/4 you run all your pattern cuts,you can run the stiles in on the bit for about 3/8" this will tell you if you are dead on,if so make the pattern cuts if not move the bit up or down just a bit ( .001" ) is a bit deal when it comes to R & S parts, you don't want to sand all the door parts flat after you put on the cuts. 

Always put the good side down, put a small " X " on the back side of the stock this will help you keep all the parts right,b/4 you cut them 

Hope this helps a bit

Bj


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## High Life (Jan 25, 2007)

Thanks again for the advice - looks like I found a goldmine of knowledge here!

BJ, I'll read your post about 15 times and try to absorb it all.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi HL

You'er Welcome
Take a peek at the link below it will help alot.

http://www.woodshopdemos.com/cmt-jr8.htm

Many items on this web site ,see below (show and tell /how to site)
http://www.woodshopdemos.com/menu2.htm
how to cut stock for cabinet doors ▼
http://www.softwareforwoodworkers.com/html/doors.html
Download the free try out copy and try it out, great software for what you are doing, but it's 55.oo bucks.
BUT don't buy it yet, just try it out but when you want to buy it get the one below.
Woodshop Calculator CD
Now comes with FREE "Making Raised Panels DVD!
at $24.95

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc2.html


Bj


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