# Templates...



## 81Custom (Apr 1, 2007)

I want to start using my router more, not only because i believe it'll do higher quality work than my jigsaw, but also to justify owning one. the trouble is, templates. I understand their purpose, but am baffled on how to make specific templates... here's an example of my failing thought process: I need to make a 3" x 8" rounded edged hole for the back of en entertainment center I building for my wife. it's 1/4" oak ply. Normally, I'd jigsaw it, and sand... but it wouldn't be "perfect"( loose interpretation). a template would do that, but I can't see how I can make a perfect template, if I can't jig a perfect hole to begin with?? my pathetic brain can't grasp the concept... explain the process of how you fellows go about making templates that you use with your routers,please... that goes for archs for table tops, curves for legs,etc.. normally, I bandsaw/jigsaw and sand,sand, sand... but I really want to be more precise... 
..sorry for my ignorance.... :sad:


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Hi Butch! I'll try to give You an easy way. Get a router Bit with a bearing the same size as the bit. You can cut a template from hardboard, or a suitable material the exact size as the part You want to create. Sand the template as it was the finished product, and when You attach it to the piece that You are using and You route it, The piece will be the exact size, and with a smooth finished cut, That You may not need to do any more. but the neat thing is, when cutting a pattern, You can make 1, or a thousand pieces, and all will be the same!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just my 2 cents,,, 

Cir.holes are best done with cir.jig like the one below,(one of the best I have found) the router will do it right from the get go, no template needed...
But when you come to a oval it's best to use a template or a oval jig like the one below ,,,but you need to make the template 1st.with the band saw or the scroll saw or oval jig than use the brass guides or a pattern router bit to make the master template,it can be a female type or male type, the female works the best for oval holes..you pop on your brass guide on the bottom of router stick the template in place drop the plunge router in place a cut the perfect hole just that quick..little bit of light sanding to remove the fuzz and you have it done.

Note*** if you want to use a pattner bit you will need to make your templates using 1/2" or 3/4" thick stock unlike using the brass guide system way.

Amazon.com: Jasper 200J Model 200 Circle Cutting Jig for Plunge Router: Home Improvement

Rockler Ellipse/Circle Router Jig - Rockler Woodworking Tools

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81Custom said:


> I want to start using my router more, not only because i believe it'll do higher quality work than my jigsaw, but also to justify owning one. the trouble is, templates. I understand their purpose, but am baffled on how to make specific templates... here's an example of my failing thought process: I need to make a 3" x 8" rounded edged hole for the back of en entertainment center I building for my wife. it's 1/4" oak ply. Normally, I'd jigsaw it, and sand... but it wouldn't be "perfect"( loose interpretation). a template would do that, but I can't see how I can make a perfect template, if I can't jig a perfect hole to begin with?? my pathetic brain can't grasp the concept... explain the process of how you fellows go about making templates that you use with your routers,please... that goes for archs for table tops, curves for legs,etc.. normally, I bandsaw/jigsaw and sand,sand, sand... but I really want to be more precise...
> ..sorry for my ignorance.... :sad:


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

81Custom said:


> I want to start using my router more, not only because i believe it'll do higher quality work than my jigsaw, but also to justify owning one. the trouble is, templates. I understand their purpose, but am baffled on how to make specific templates... here's an example of my failing thought process: I need to make a 3" x 8" rounded edged hole for the back of en entertainment center I building for my wife. it's 1/4" oak ply. Normally, I'd jigsaw it, and sand... but it wouldn't be "perfect"( loose interpretation). a template would do that, but I can't see how I can make a perfect template, if I can't jig a perfect hole to begin with?? my pathetic brain can't grasp the concept... explain the process of how you fellows go about making templates that you use with your routers,please... that goes for archs for table tops, curves for legs,etc.. normally, I bandsaw/jigsaw and sand,sand, sand... but I really want to be more precise...
> ..sorry for my ignorance.... :sad:


Hi Butch - What I've run into is templates and jigs are at least, if not more varied than the projects themselves. In your case, where there is a fixed size hole with rounded corners, I would draw it out on the template material, drill the corners out with the proper size drill bit. Cut the center out with a jig or scroll saw, staying away from the lines and then sand to the lines. 
I had a project a few weeks ago that I wanted to embed a ford hood emblem on. I used a bit and bushing to trace around the emblem to make the template. I'm working on a project now where I'm drawing the thing out on the computer and printing a 1:1 printout to glue to the template stock. 
Many ways to do it and a lot depends on the resources you have available to do it with. Can it be frustrating?? Yeah. Is it rewarding? Definatly! I think you are on the right track, just keep plugging and ask for any help you need.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

You could make your template with four pieces of material and glue them together to form the size of hole you want. This gives you your rectangular hole. The bearing on the pattern bit will stop the bit going right into the corners and leave you with a rounded corner.
Doing it this way is simpler than cutting out a hole as you can just cut straight lines with your table saw.
HTH

Peter


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## 81Custom (Apr 1, 2007)

Gentlemen, many Thanks for your responses. I understand the process of making templates now,as being an "attention to detail". just what I figured it was. I also just ordered a circular templates for a future project (table top), it also does ellipses. You all have been kind and I appreciate it a bunch... I really want to use my router at least as much as I do my shaper( I use it as my router table). Thanks again


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Hi Butch, here is a link to an earlier project of mine which is fully illustrated starting with making the template, it may give you some ideas.

http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/14304-making-balloon-clock.html


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## 81Custom (Apr 1, 2007)

harrysin said:


> Hi Butch, here is a link to an earlier project of mine which is fully illustrated starting with making the template, it may give you some ideas.
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/14304-making-balloon-clock.html


Harry...you're an artist...my world.....:yes4:


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## hilltopper46 (Feb 27, 2010)

81Custom said:


> ...I can't see how I can make a perfect template, if I can't jig a perfect hole to begin with?? my pathetic brain can't grasp the concept... <snip>
> ..sorry for my ignorance.... :sad:


you are not alone - I've had this same thought myself...


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Experience comes from doing it over several times, till You git it right. That doesn't mean to do the same job over, but if You can repeat the process on several different projects, The process will be easier to accomplish. Soon, You will be able to give us pointers! That's the truth!


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

A couple of points to remember about templates. First, there are templates, and then there are Templates. :yes2:

That is, some templates are used to guide the bearing on a flush-trim bit, while others are intended for use with a guide bushing. With the former, a square inside corner on the template will produce a round corner in the work piece that is the same diameter as the bit (big surprise, eh?). With the latter, the template is over-sized (larger than the intended hole or pattern) to accommodate the "offset" of the bit/guide-bushing pair (the offset being the distance between the edge of the bit and the outer edge of the guide bushing). Inlay kits, and the corresponding templates, are a variation on this concept.

For a "universal" template for rectangular shapes, four pieces of MDF, cut perfectly square and smooth, can be butted together and held in place with duct tape to form the desired size of rectangle. Then, (carefully) flip it over, so there is a smooth surface for the router base to ride on, and clamp it to the work piece. Mine are ½" thick, 4" wide, and about 24" long.


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## Grung56 (Jul 13, 2010)

*corner jig dents*

I have a problem with the corner template curve remaining "true" after 10+ uses.
Cutting 1/2" MDO (outdoor ply) with a straight flush cut bearing bit.
My template (of the same material) sits on top of the board I am cutting. After about 10 uses, I notice the perfect radius appears dented and imperfect. It is not the cutting edge of the bit because the 'dent' aligns with the roller bearing. ( I have tried adjusting the bit up and down to the same result). I have made four separate guide templates with 'perfect' radius, and even changed the bit. Same result....dented guide corners that result in imperfect corners on my project.

The 'dent' is located at the apex of the curve, also where the 1/2" bit is chewing through full width of substrate (ie: not just trimming off a small bit of material). I am not cutting the corner to rough curve first.

My theory is that when the router bit fully engages the full width material, there is so much torque that it forces the guide bearing toward the center of the template and actually dents the plywood. 

I'm already thinking the advice I will receive is "rough cut the corner first with jigsaw or bandsaw, then router the 'perfect edge'".

I hope you can follow the details. I tried to include a photo but not sure if it worked.

Thanks for your comments..... Greg


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Greg,

If you're going to be using it a great deal like that, you may want to consider using UHMW plastic for the jig. It sells for $10-$20 per square foot so isn't often used for making a handfull of something but, for production quantities...


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