# Newly created router skis...



## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

After studying the numerous posts on router skis, many from Harry and BJ, I have created my own. The cheeks aren't finished yet - they need a coat of something to prevent them absorbing moisture, and to make them more slippery. The cheek shape is an exact copy of Harry's, however the rod attachment method is certainly BJ's. Although I've yet to actually use them, they seem very good. I used 18mm MDF, the rods are 12mm stainless steel (very smooth), the slots were routed with a 12.7mm spiral - the excess there doesn't seem to have created any wobbliness. Haven't been able to find any star washers (at all!) - let alone some that will permit a 12mm rod through. BJ says the rods will slip down the cheeks without star washers - so I need to get my hands on some. 

Observations thus far:
1. the springs are easy to tension using a Irwin quick clamp with the rubber 'shoes' removed. I simply put the plastic feet of the clamp on the two lock collars, tighten the clamp then tighten the allen key to lock the lock collar in place. The springs seem to make the entire setup very rigid.

2. The inside lock collar might get in the way of the rails on my camboard (yet to be created so I don't know yet) - depending on how high in the slots I set the rods. I could always use a lower profile rail (was going to use 18mm mdf) if it's a problem.

3. The Makita 3612C's handles butt into the cheeks when the rods are at the bottom of the slots - I might modify the cheeks to remove this issue, if it becomes an problem. 

Matthew

PS - here are a few pictures...


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Top Job!
They look good.
Just give them a few coats of varnish to seal them.

This is my next task, I started with my cam board after finding 30 or so blindnuts and a piece of mdf for 1.20 euro.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Very nice, Matthew.

And I see you have the right router for the job...

Keep us up to date on progress


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Looking really good Matt. I'm eagerly awaiting for your report as to how well it works on a fairly heavy job like planing a rough block, also how long it takes to re-set the height making sure that all corners are the same height.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Matt

Nice job  :big_boss:

" absorbing moisture" " more slippery " use some Johnson Floor Was (paste in the yellow can ) about 3 or 4 coats will do the trick, just for kicks do the same thing to some scraps and than put some water on them and watch the water bead up and run right off and than slide the stock over the work bench and you will see it just slides right over it with almost no drag...plus when you cut the slots out for the handles you cab re-coat them easy, the MDF will soak the wax right up and lock into the wood..

Star washers, just make your own, washer,, cut it with the hack saw, in 4 or 5 spots on the washer, take pair of wire cutters and turn the washer parts to the right (all the same way )(Stainless steel works best ) it will not rust and is very strong,it's not spring steel but almost..

"inside lock collar" should be fine, yours look about the same size I used and the rods will keep them up and out of the way.

To set all the rods the same on the cheeks, I put a scrap block under the router let it rest and lock them all it place at one time..then pull the scrap block out and you are set to run..

Here's a small tip, drill a 1/4" hole in the center of the cheeks on the bottom side so you fit in a 1/4" x 3/4" dowel pin and you just made a great cir.jig. one jig for more than one job...like a great edge guide..by just dropping one of the cheeks down and adding a slide block to rods to keep the router level..


Looking forward to your feed back..

Just a quicker way to adjust the rods on the cheeks and compress the springs..all in one move, you can get one for about 8.oo dollars, small eng.repair parts supply store or auto parts store parts ,off the spin rack..I know the tool below will get Harry going, he will say what the hell is that, don't Americans know about wing nuts ? or what .. 

see below. ▼

KD Hand Tools 379 Small Engine Valve Spring Compressor

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matt1710 said:


> After studying the numerous posts on router skis, many from Harry and BJ, I have created my own. The cheeks aren't finished yet - they need a coat of something to prevent them absorbing moisture, and to make them more slippery. The cheek shape is an exact copy of Harry's, however the rod attachment method is certainly BJ's. Although I've yet to actually use them, they seem very good. I used 18mm MDF, the rods are 12mm stainless steel (very smooth), the slots were routed with a 12.7mm spiral - the excess there doesn't seem to have created any wobbliness. Haven't been able to find any star washers (at all!) - let alone some that will permit a 12mm rod through. BJ says the rods will slip down the cheeks without star washers - so I need to get my hands on some.
> 
> Observations thus far:
> 1. the springs are easy to tension using a Irwin quick clamp with the rubber 'shoes' removed. I simply put the plastic feet of the clamp on the two lock collars, tighten the clamp then tighten the allen key to lock the lock collar in place. The springs seem to make the entire setup very rigid.
> ...


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I'm thinking of finally getting around to making some skis myself now that I have a workshop space.
I think I have all the details I need except for one.
How often do ski users have the need to set up the router so it's not level within the skis ?
Seems to me it would be a rare need, so why have 4 different heights to adjust when you could just have 2 ?


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi Bob

Thanks! Johnson Floor Wax - better than some kind of varnish, by the sounds of it? Should be easier to apply, that's for sure! 

Will try making my own star washers...

One way to minimize the chances that the inside lock collar or washer will foul on the edge guide : lower profile edge guides. I cut two 20mm wide strips of 18mm thick MDF - however it does foul on the collar. I guess I could use something like 6mm ply edge guides - that way it would run under the collar/washer. The only risk is that the skis might jump over the low edge guide. Your thoughts?

Thanks for the tips re setting the heights, and the circle cutting jig - good idea!

One thing - I hate cutting corners with a bandsaw - see all those nasty saw marks on the mdf? That's after sanding them too! If I'd known how to cut the corners with the router, I would have done it. 

Matthew



bobj3 said:


> HI Matt
> 
> Nice job  :big_boss:
> 
> ...


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

harrysin said:


> Looking really good Matt. I'm eagerly awaiting for your report as to how well it works on a fairly heavy job like planing a rough block, also how long it takes to re-set the height making sure that all corners are the same height.


Hi Harry

Thanks! I'm looking forward to using them too - will let you know how they get on. It sounds like you're expecting them to slip... ;-))

Matthew


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

Thanks and Your Welcome

The router is a great tool to get the corners nice and true and clean, I use a sandwich jig the norm on the router table it's just two 1/4" thick parts of MDF stock and some project stock, I make a sandwich so to speak,the 1/4" MDF is (bread) cut on the band saw than project stock is screwed inside of the 1/4" thick MDF, I push in the project board in (the meat ) and chuck up a trim router bit in the router table and buzz off the corners ,they come out very clean and no band saw marks at all and they are always just the same, I will some times remove some of the corners to make it easy on the skew trim router bit, I do like to use the bigger CMT trim bit ( 3/4" OD bit) most of the time buit I also like using the MLCS trim bit below also.
Spiral Flush Trim Router Bit
MLCS solid carbide router bits

Star washers are easy to make 

You may to get some 
UHMW Slick Tape 
UHMW Plastic Sheets and Strips

http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/5768-corner-radius.html

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matt1710 said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> Thanks! Johnson Floor Wax - better than some kind of varnish, by the sounds of it? Should be easier to apply, that's for sure!
> 
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Get going mate, $30.00 plus about a million for transport, how much do you think it would cost to have the ends threaded, a LOT less than that.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

gav said:


> I'm thinking of finally getting around to making some skis myself now that I have a workshop space.
> I think I have all the details I need except for one.
> How often do ski users have the need to set up the router so it's not level within the skis ?
> Seems to me it would be a rare need, so why have 4 different heights to adjust when you could just have 2 ?


Sorry Gav. but I don't quite understand your question. Other than perhaps routing an angled edge, and there are cutters to do this far easier, the cutter must be at right angles to the work-piece. The height adjustment is necessary to accommodate the wide range of jobs that can be performed with the ski mounted router. 
In these shots, notice the difference in height of the router.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

matt1710 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> Thanks! I'm looking forward to using them too - will let you know how they get on. It sounds like you're expecting them to slip... ;-))
> 
> Matthew


And/or tear away the end cheeks due to the star washers, not of course immediately, but after about two weeks of the sort of use that I give my skis. I only post a fraction of the projects that I make, these without photographs (it's much faster that way!)


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Harry, I was just thinking that maybe it might be easier to set the skis up level if there was a piece of wood or something that joined the rods at both ends.
Guess I might either need to make what I'm thinking of, or at least do a sketchup drawing to get the idea across.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

gav said:


> I'm thinking of finally getting around to making some skis myself now that I have a workshop space.
> I think I have all the details I need except for one.
> How often do ski users have the need to set up the router so it's not level within the skis ?
> Seems to me it would be a rare need, so why have 4 different heights to adjust when you could just have 2 ?


Hi Gavin:

I move my routers around through a variety of methods so every time I use skis, I'm having to "set" the rod height. I use a block of whatever I have handy. However, I might use it a bit differently than others, to wit:

1. I'll set the height of the rods at one end using a scrap block of wood, tighten down the wing nuts.

2. load the router onto the rails and setup the other ski and using the same block, tighten that end down.

3. when you go to set the router depth, the rods will deflect, use the same block to support the middle of the rods when you set the depth.

4. before you start the router, move the bit over where you want to start your cut. Place the block under the rods. Start the router, plunge to your depth and as you begin to move the skis, remove the block. I try to move the skis away from the block rather than "fish" the block out from under the skis while the router is running.

5. An alternative to the removal process, use a wedge to support the rods or router and just move the setup away from the wedge.

Having said all that, there are circumstances where you'll want to set your rods at different heights on the rods. One of the operations that I do is to slide the router across the rails, creating a slight angle on cauls.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi BJ - I couldn't follow those instructions! 

Surely to cut a nice smooth round corner with a router, I need a template of sorts? And then either follow the template with a guide collar in the router, or a flush trim bit with bearing? If a template is needed, then a high quality (read : smooth and even) curve on the template is crucial. What about cutting a few different sized full circles with the router on a circle jig, and using them as templates? One could use both the actual circle itself (for convex, or outside corners), and the left over stock from the circle cutting exercise, for concave (or "inside" corners). I guess the trick is in securing the template so that the router can use it as a guide, without cramps and the like restricting the router's path.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

This may help 

Router Workshop: envelopejig

Router Workshop: rabbet bit pattern

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matt1710 said:


> Hi BJ - I couldn't follow those instructions!
> 
> Surely to cut a nice smooth round corner with a router, I need a template of sorts? And then either follow the template with a guide collar in the router, or a flush trim bit with bearing? If a template is needed, then a high quality (read : smooth and even) curve on the template is crucial. What about cutting a few different sized full circles with the router on a circle jig, and using them as templates? One could use both the actual circle itself (for convex, or outside corners), and the left over stock from the circle cutting exercise, for concave (or "inside" corners). I guess the trick is in securing the template so that the router can use it as a guide, without cramps and the like restricting the router's path.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi Bob

Brilliant - thanks. Will have to make one of those "sandwich jigs" and see how I can use it with my free-hand router - I haven't made my RT yet!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

Your Welcome 

Use some 1/2" or 3/4" MDF stock to make your templates and then you can use your hand router easy..

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matt1710 said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> Brilliant - thanks. Will have to make one of those "sandwich jigs" and see how I can use it with my free-hand router - I haven't made my RT yet!


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

The big issue is how to get the template curve super smooth - I guess cutting it with the router in a circle jig is the best option? Anything cut with a saw is never going to be perfect.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

Just sand it a little bit no need to get it perfect the bearing on the bit will not pick it up..it will just roll over it.. 



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matt1710 said:


> The big issue is how to get the template curve super smooth - I guess cutting it with the router in a circle jig is the best option? Anything cut with a saw is never going to be perfect.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Good point - I hadn't thought of that! I figured that everything on the template would get transferred - however tiny nicks etc, won't.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

Right On , think of the bearing as a fence the bigger the bearing the bigger (longer) the fence so to speak  , the bearing can't fall in the little saw marks just roll over the high side and to the next high side and so on , but because the fence is very short it will fall into the low spots and climb over the high spots...


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matt1710 said:


> Good point - I hadn't thought of that! I figured that everything on the template would get transferred - however tiny nicks etc, won't.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

*comparative geometry*

The bearing size vs. the nick (template irregularity) size is similar to the comparative geometry of a road surface, where it's tire vs. pothole. It's like the reason that 2" casters aren't used on cars or Conestoga wagons. 

_Protrusions_ on the bearing surface of a template, however, are like rocks or logs on the road - not good.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi Ralph - another good point re protrusions. This forum is a goldmine of information!


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

*Report on new router skis*

Hello

Well, I had the chance to crack the new skis into action even before the MDF cheeks were sealed! During construction on my new workbench, I needed to reduce a 200 x 95mm block from 45mm thick, to 39mm thick. Enter the skis - perfect for the job as I don't have a thickness planer or table saw. 

My skis have springs and lock collars - not threaded rods. Adjustment is pretty quick - although probably not as quick as threaded rod. There are however advantages but I won't go into them now. I hadn't made any star washers to grip the MDF cheeks, and even after tensioning the springs, could see that there was going to be slippage if I applied downward pressure. Rather than make the star washers, I got some VERY rough fabric backed sandpaper (an old sander belt) and cut four 30 x 30mm squares and drilled a 12mm hole through each one. I then used these as star washers - they worked perfectly - and didn't show any signs of chewing up the MDF cheeks. Maybe a better solution than star washers?

Anyway, the skis are great - can't wait to use them on my new bench top (pics to come) and with the new cam board.

Matthew


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

Sounds good  the sand paper sounds like a good way, you can also make a lock washers with a center punch, just put the washer on some wood drive the punch into the washer,(in 4 spots) this will put a tit on the back side of the washer flip the washer over and do it one more time, you now have a locking washer so to speak.. 

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matt1710 said:


> Hello
> 
> Well, I had the chance to crack the new skis into action even before the MDF cheeks were sealed! During construction on my new workbench, I needed to reduce a 200 x 95mm block from 45mm thick, to 39mm thick. Enter the skis - perfect for the job as I don't have a thickness planer or table saw.
> 
> ...


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

*Not good...*

Well, a more in-depth report of the skis I made recently - and it's not good. The skis themselves are great - they run very smoothly across the camboard, especially now that I have UHMWPE runners on the bottoms of the skis, and the camboard coated with sanding sealer. But the setup of the non-threaded rods with springs and lock collars proved a disaster today. ALthough it's pretty fast to get the router onto the rods - although slower than Harry's versions of the rod) - it's not too bad. However, it took way too long to get the springs tensioned up to sandwich the cheeks sufficiently to stop them slipping. I got mighty frustrated, swore like a trooper, and vowed to depart from the lock collar/spring method. I'll probably give it one more shot - but if the next experience is anything like todays, the lock collars and springs will be retired. 

I've been thinking about improvements, and I might still use the lock collars as 'stoppers' on the rods - ie to limit the travel of the router on the skis, by having the router base bump into the lock collar - and therefore stop the cut at that point. 

Matt


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

matt1710 said:


> Well, a more in-depth report of the skis I made recently - and it's not good. The skis themselves are great - they run very smoothly across the camboard, especially now that I have UHMWPE runners on the bottoms of the skis, and the camboard coated with sanding sealer. But the setup of the non-threaded rods with springs and lock collars proved a disaster today. ALthough it's pretty fast to get the router onto the rods - although slower than Harry's versions of the rod) - it's not too bad. However, it took way too long to get the springs tensioned up to sandwich the cheeks sufficiently to stop them slipping. I got mighty frustrated, swore like a trooper, and vowed to depart from the lock collar/spring method. I'll probably give it one more shot - but if the next experience is anything like todays, the lock collars and springs will be retired.
> 
> I've been thinking about improvements, and I might still use the lock collars as 'stoppers' on the rods - ie to limit the travel of the router on the skis, by having the router base bump into the lock collar - and therefore stop the cut at that point.
> 
> Matt


Matthew, you appear to be under the impression that the skis stay still and the router is moved along the rods, not so my friend, take a good look at this shot of planing a slab, the skis have gone as far as possible to the right, we now unlock the router from the rods and slide it to the right so that that skis can now be moved to the left ready to carry on with the planing.
As for my good friends idea of the spring loaded collars, I said at the time that in my usual humble opinion, it was not one of his best ideas.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

Like I said the big Lock Washers are the key to the jig,almost no tension is needed..
But it sound like the threads on the ends is the best way for you to go. 

Harry and I don't see eye to eye on the need for the router to move up and down the rods, most of the holes in the router bases are Not true and are not made that way..if they had a steel guides in them I would say OK but they just don't..

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matt1710 said:


> Well, a more in-depth report of the skis I made recently - and it's not good. The skis themselves are great - they run very smoothly across the camboard, especially now that I have UHMWPE runners on the bottoms of the skis, and the camboard coated with sanding sealer. But the setup of the non-threaded rods with springs and lock collars proved a disaster today. ALthough it's pretty fast to get the router onto the rods - although slower than Harry's versions of the rod) - it's not too bad. However, it took way too long to get the springs tensioned up to sandwich the cheeks sufficiently to stop them slipping. I got mighty frustrated, swore like a trooper, and vowed to depart from the lock collar/spring method. I'll probably give it one more shot - but if the next experience is anything like todays, the lock collars and springs will be retired.
> 
> I've been thinking about improvements, and I might still use the lock collars as 'stoppers' on the rods - ie to limit the travel of the router on the skis, by having the router base bump into the lock collar - and therefore stop the cut at that point.
> 
> Matt


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Thanks for your comments Harry & Bob.

Harry : for the application I had at hand (cutting a shallow stopped slot in a small work piece), it seemed like locking the stock in the camboard, desired slot parallel to skis, was the best way to go. Once I got the router bit lined up with the edge of the slot, I clamped the skis to the camboard rails, at both ends. It worked very well. I can't see how I could have done it, but am welcome to suggestions as usual. 

Bob - I'll try with less tension and some lock rings - maybe I don't need as much tension as I was after. One of the issues is that the width of the skis when used on the camboard is dictated by the parallel rails that the cheeks sit outside of. There is very little rod left protruding from the skis, so getting all the hardware on means that the spring has to be compressed by hand to get the final lock collar onto the rod ... and that can be tricky!

Matt


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Matt

That can be tricky if the rods are short ones or the cam board is to wide ,I use 36" ones just because of that..no need to made it hard with short rods 


I know Harry will not believe me when I say it's so easy to do it this way, with the lock collars and springs but it's easy stuff, wing nuts are nice but you don't have the adjustability that you have with the lock collars, you don't need the tank in the middle of the bridge putting all the load in the center ..just like a bridge.. one could say..

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matt1710 said:


> Thanks for your comments Harry & Bob.
> 
> Harry : for the application I had at hand (cutting a shallow stopped slot in a small work piece), it seemed like locking the stock in the camboard, desired slot parallel to skis, was the best way to go. Once I got the router bit lined up with the edge of the slot, I clamped the skis to the camboard rails, at both ends. It worked very well. I can't see how I could have done it, but am welcome to suggestions as usual.
> 
> ...


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

The ability to adjust the width of the cheeks is one of the things that attracted me to the lock collar and spring setup. I've only used the skis a few times, and have not yet used them 'freehand' so have always had the cheeks spaced widely. I'll probably persist with them as are for a little while yet, so see if I have a need to operate them on a narrow stance. I guess I could always get a second set of rods (they only cost me US$7), and get them reduced & threaded for use on the rails on the camboard - and keep the lock collar/spring set for freehand routing.


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## baileyedition (Feb 2, 2011)

well this will be like a child in a room full of grown ups as I have never used skis nor new until now what they were for. I'm gathering that it turns your router into a planer and assists with carving and such, I'm sure there are many more uses and I will now be looking into to all of them to see how I may be able to benefit from them. 

However just thinking about your issue, if lock washers tightened down will eventually chew away your cheeks and slippage is a real concern but you want your cheeks to glide easily across the work surface than how about a two step finishing process on the cheeks and the use of rubber washers in place of lock washers employing compression resistance instead of bite pressure. 

If you coated the the sides of the cheeks with a few coats of poly or varnish this would suit a good grip offered by rubber washers. the rubber washers backed even by standard zinc, stainless (preference) will allow a great deal of clamping pressure without damage to the cheeks. 

Coat the the underside of the cheeks with wax for easy gliding along the work surface. 

Now seeing as how this thread is my introduction to skis and i have all of 3 min. thinking about this my suggestions may be mute but what do you all think.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

baileyedition said:


> well this will be like a child in a room full of grown ups as I have never used skis nor new until now what they were for. I'm gathering that it turns your router into a planer and assists with carving and such, I'm sure there are many more uses and I will now be looking into to all of them to see how I may be able to benefit from them.
> 
> However just thinking about your issue, if lock washers tightened down will eventually chew away your cheeks and slippage is a real concern but you want your cheeks to glide easily across the work surface than how about a two step finishing process on the cheeks and the use of rubber washers in place of lock washers employing compression resistance instead of bite pressure.
> 
> ...


Paul, the method chosen by Matt. was introduced by Bj3 and it's one of of a very few of his ideas that I don't agree with, most are little short of brilliant. The method that I introduced to the forum uses bright mild steel rods threaded at each end and locked to the end cheeks with wing nuts. I use plastic edging strip for the bottom of the cheeks, this gives smooth movement but not too slippy for the assembly to "run away"


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

baileyedition said:


> well this will be like a child in a room full of grown ups as I have never used skis nor new until now what they were for. I'm gathering that it turns your router into a planer and assists with carving and such, I'm sure there are many more uses and I will now be looking into to all of them to see how I may be able to benefit from them.
> 
> Routing from overhead also means that you can make multiple passes with different bits as the back of your workpiece stays totally stable on your work table. You just need some type of fence to register one ski against.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

NO fence is needed with the ski fixture, it's just a way to support the router for you....
It can do many,many router jobs, see my uploads for just some of them.. 
Start with the last pages it's quicker.( page 958)

=======




Cherryville Chuck said:


> baileyedition said:
> 
> 
> > well this will be like a child in a room full of grown ups as I have never used skis nor new until now what they were for. I'm gathering that it turns your router into a planer and assists with carving and such, I'm sure there are many more uses and I will now be looking into to all of them to see how I may be able to benefit from them.
> ...


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## chin1 (Feb 28, 2011)

*Router skis*



matt1710 said:


> After studying the numerous posts on router skis, many from Harry and BJ, I have created my own. The cheeks aren't finished yet - they need a coat of something to prevent them absorbing moisture, and to make them more slippery. The cheek shape is an exact copy of Harry's, however the rod attachment method is certainly BJ's. Although I've yet to actually use them, they seem very good. I used 18mm MDF, the rods are 12mm stainless steel (very smooth), the slots were routed with a 12.7mm spiral - the excess there doesn't seem to have created any wobbliness. Haven't been able to find any star washers (at all!) - let alone some that will permit a 12mm rod through. BJ says the rods will slip down the cheeks without star washers - so I need to get my hands on some.
> 
> Observations thus far:
> 1. the springs are easy to tension using a Irwin quick clamp with the rubber 'shoes' removed. I simply put the plastic feet of the clamp on the two lock collars, tighten the clamp then tighten the allen key to lock the lock collar in place. The springs seem to make the entire setup very rigid.
> ...


Has you well know I'm a beginner to this for and routing in general.So what would you use this gadget for?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

chin1 said:


> Has you well know I'm a beginner to this for and routing in general.So what would you use this gadget for?


Hi Paul:

Ok, consider that using a router with the stock handles, you use the work piece to support the router. The skis take the same router and suspend it above the workpiece. The difference is the way you measure. When the router sits on the workpiece you measure the material that you remove. When the router is suspended from skis, you measure what remains. Further, it is difficult to be precise with factory handles whereas skis allow you to be much more precise. Some will use skis to thickness a workpiece. Others will use it with a templates. There is a superset of skis called the pivot frame.


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## sergiozal (Feb 7, 2011)

very nicely done!


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## shotgunpapa (Jun 12, 2008)

i will have to work on that my self thanks for sharing may copy that if you don't mind.


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

This has been an interesting thread to read and I may try to build a ski set myself to plane a few things.The only question that came to mine is why do use slots in the ski boards. Wouldn't be a little more secure to simply drill a series of holes? That would eliminate the chance of the rods slipping and if you set the holes about an inch apart the router should have sufficient depth adjustment to accommodate.

Thanks for a most interesting read


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Tim, Dont muck around, go and do it....the skis are the ducks nuts when you get the hang of them.....all good........AL


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

Al Robins said:


> Tim, Dont muck around, go and do it....the skis are the ducks nuts when you get the hang of them.....all good........AL


Al,I started looking into doing it today,but the only router I own that has a base the rods will go through is my Hitachi M12V2. It's a bit big to shove about. I may need to build a plate for my PC 8529 and use it. Seems like I'm always coming across something that needs to be leveled.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Dont be put off by the size and weight. I have two Makita monsters, 3612 and a 3600 that I find great....the 3600 is on skis and no problems. I dont know much about the Hitachi, but it wouldnt be too much bigger in weight or size.

Have a look at some of the other guys and their routers....Harry Sin and BJ to name a couple. I have used Harrys photo as and example.....

Get into it!..............AL


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

TWBryan said:


> Al,I started looking into doing it today,but the only router I own that has a base the rods will go through is my Hitachi M12V2. It's a bit big to shove about. I may need to build a plate for my PC 8529 and use it. Seems like I'm always coming across something that needs to be leveled.


Tim, there is no reason why you shouldn't use a series of holes rather than slots, which in my opinion are so much faster to adjust than dismantling the skis in order to change the height. Whilst many members have made exact copies of my skis, even more have made their own versions, there are no hard and fast rules, whatever suits your particular needs is fine. Your Hitachi, which is very similar to the Makita 3612/C is perfect for ski routing and has the same 12mm holes.


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

Al, I imagine when working on rough wood that the big router works best. I don't have any 7/16" rods on hand ,once I get those I can start work on my own set of skis.

Harry,well that explains the slots as means of convenience. I will have to dig around for materials to work with. What type of bit do you use to plane material with? I have some straight bits in my box.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

OK Tim, now we have you half interested, have a look through Harry"s photos. He will take you through, step by step,on large and small projects.....Good luck and enjoy the ride....AL


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

Finally got my hands on some 7/16" rod today. Have to thread the ends and then I can build the skis.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Tim, any chance of some photos?....WIP? Harry gets the sulks without them!....AL


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

I will when I can.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Thank You...........


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

TWBryan said:


> Al, I imagine when working on rough wood that the big router works best. I don't have any 7/16" rods on hand ,once I get those I can start work on my own set of skis.
> 
> Harry,well that explains the slots as means of convenience. I will have to dig around for materials to work with. What type of bit do you use to plane material with? I have some straight bits in my box.


For small jobs I prefer to use an end cutter straight bit (plunge bit) which has an extra blade at the bottom and gives a superior finish. For big planing jobs I generally use a 3/4" normal straight bit as big diameter end cutters don't appear to be available.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

MLCS Plunge Cutting Straight Router Bits

1 pc 1/2 Sh 1-3/4" Diameter Bottom Cleaning Router Bit | eBay

http://woodhaven.com/Woodhaven-13500-258-Arbor-with-12/M/B002UZESPQ.htm

http://woodhaven.com/Woodhaven-13537-138-diameter-screwon-cutter/M/B002UZ8ZM8.htm


====


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

Al, got threads on the ends of the rods today,took a picture of progress,but need to pick up a few 7/16" nuts. If I get a chance to work on it tomorrow I'll be digging through the scrap pile to find some wood...

Harry,ok I see what you mean,I'll go look through my sets of china-carbide and see if I have anything that will work. Also going to need a circle jig soon.I found a design in one of Patrick Spielman's books that I want to make my version of. Of course,I'll need to make a jib to put in straight slots for that.I believe this is all snowballing on me...

Bob,thanks for the links,sadly I am still broke,but I like the looks of some of that stuff.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Good post BJ, I have some workpieces to smooth and was wondering what bit to use.

Thinking of sanding them flat but with one of those bits on the skis it looks 

good...........AL


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> MLCS Plunge Cutting Straight Router Bits
> 
> 1 pc 1/2 Sh 1-3/4" Diameter Bottom Cleaning Router Bit | eBay
> 
> ...


Bob, you've done it again, I've just ordered the one on ebay and waiting to hear what the freight is. You're making me lazy Bob, instead of spending lots of sawdust making time searching for things on the net, I just have to mention in a post that the item isn't available, and as if by magic, you post a link, thank you my friend.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Yes Harry, BJ's sucked me in too. Got mine ordered from Carbatec....$30 its 31 mm diameter, so that should make life easier.Some of this Broughton Willow has a magnificent grain, but hard as Hell to machine flat. The band saw cuts it under sufference but is never completely flat for what I want. Hope your bidding goes ok.Didnt want to stick my nose in.....................AL


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I've ordered the one on ebay at $14.50 + $11.00 freight and that's for a 1 3/4" bit. This was "buy now" not bidding. If Bob said that he likes the bits from this guy George, then it's good enough for me, especially at such a good price.


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

Still working on my rig,have gotten the rods threaded at each end, 7/16"-14. Tried to keep the threads an equal length, Fretted about it and decided to drill a hole in the side of the nuts and tap it for an allen screw. If necessary I can then lock it into place. Bought the additional hardware I needed as well.

Only thing left to do is figure the layout for the ski s themselves. From what I have to work with I'll end up using 3/4" pine boards. I have the distance for the holes,but wondering what height to make them? Obvious answer is how high do you need them? I kind of wonder if 12" is enough? I don't think I'll ever end up taking wood fresh from the tree and planing it square,but stranger things have happened.


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

I have a few pics of what I'm doing,nothing exciting.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Looks pretty good from here Tim....dont know about the locking bolt, I've never had mine come loose. Keep us up to date with the pickies..........AL


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

The lock screw for the nut is to keep the skis set at equal distances apart. I know you can use guides on a cam board,but this makes life a little simpler.


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

Have a pic here of my crude(quick and dirty) router skis. Had to work with a set of used pine boards,so it ain't pretty.How well does it work,won't know until I can acquire a suitable mortising bit to use.That may be a while..

Used the Hitachi M12V2 to do the flush trimming.Very smooth router,plenty of power.Only thing was the fine depth setting lock. You have to position it just right in the disengage location,otherwise you can hear it rattling over the acme thread when you change depth. Next project will be a circle jig.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tim

How about a ski jig and a cir.jig all in one fixture..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18CUKZo2JUE
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TWBryan said:


> Have a pic here of my crude(quick and dirty) router skis. Had to work with a set of used pine boards,so it ain't pretty.How well does it work,won't know until I can acquire a suitable mortising bit to use.That may be a while..
> 
> Used the Hitachi M12V2 to do the flush trimming.Very smooth router,plenty of power.Only thing was the fine depth setting lock. You have to position it just right in the disengage location,otherwise you can hear it rattling over the acme thread when you change depth. Next project will be a circle jig.


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

Awww.You big kids have all the neat toys. lol. No,I think my version will be more compact to make smaller circles. Besides I certainly have not got the rods and material to build anything like that pictured. 

Trying to decide now if I should sell the PC 8529 or use it in the (eventual) router table?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tim

Fact the one in the picture is easy er to make than the normal ski jig and cheaper it just takes two beams of wood and some pop caps off some soft drinks plus some carr. bolts...

I have 8 ski jigs and the white one is the best so far, the next one on my list is some Alum.track stock that the router just clamps to and sides in the Alum.track very simple to make and will not sag at all,and will will work for all routers big or small no need to drill any holes to mount the router to the slide plate,just 3 quick wing nut clamps .. 

=======



TWBryan said:


> Awww.You big kids have all the neat toys. lol. No,I think my version will be more compact to make smaller circles. Besides I certainly have the rods and material to build anything like that pictured.
> 
> Trying to decide now if I should sell the PC 8529 or use it in the (eventual) router table?


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

Can't wait to see that Bob . The circle jig I have in mind is made mostly of wood,if I can find the wood I need...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Here's just a test fit of most of the parts but still working on the details..and to get the price down..

=====



TWBryan said:


> Can't wait to see that Bob . The circle jig I have in mind is made mostly of wood,if I can find the wood I need...


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

I see where you are coming from with that. It does look pretty limited though on the width of stock you can work on. Looks like you would need to shift the cam boards for every pass too. Maybe you could try a dado jig,between two slotted boards? Oh well,just took painkiller/muscle relaxer,so I am likely missing seeing something.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tim

It's almost the same as the Woodhaven Plaing Sled but with less parts and less money so far.  .

Video | Woodhaven

======





TWBryan said:


> I see where you are coming from with that. It does look pretty limited though on the width of stock you can work on. Looks like you would need to shift the cam boards for every pass too. Maybe you could try a dado jig,between two slotted boards? Oh well,just took painkiller/muscle relaxer,so I am likely missing seeing something.


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## TWBryan (Aug 4, 2011)

Well in examining the woodhaven version and your own,you're still somewhat limited in the width of the board you can plane. If you are looking for a way to cut costs I suggest you get a pair of 12" wide boards,the length you want.Then simply rout some slots in the boards lengthwise.Large enough that your router base can ride in them ,and this would get you the rails. As far as the caddy itself goes you will need to shift the router to cover the width of whatever you are planing. Take some 3/8" thick polycarbonate and make a slot in it (don't cut it in two),it will look like a dado jig for doing shelves.Use a template guide to protect it from the bit.This provides the right to left movement to shift position with. Alternatively you could consider something cheaper than polycarbonate for the caddy and save a few bucks there.

Just a few ideas from my,admittedly,not too bright pointy head.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tim

I think I'm going to use the ski legs with the rails, just some 1/4" wide slots and some studs to hold the wing nuts (4 ea.) so I can adjust them up and down easy.

The plate can be turned in the rails for the small jobs or the big jobs.I have some more Alum.rails coming for the bottom rails but I'm not to sure if I will need them, setup something like the woodhaven version but only 20.oo for the pair..still playing with it..


========




TWBryan said:


> Well in examining the woodhaven version and your own,you're still somewhat limited in the width of the board you can plane. If you are looking for a way to cut costs I suggest you get a pair of 12" wide boards,the length you want.Then simply rout some slots in the boards lengthwise.Large enough that your router base can ride in them ,and this would get you the rails. As far as the caddy itself goes you will need to shift the router to cover the width of whatever you are planing. Take some 3/8" thick polycarbonate and make a slot in it (don't cut it in two),it will look like a dado jig for doing shelves.Use a template guide to protect it from the bit.This provides the right to left movement to shift position with. Alternatively you could consider something cheaper than polycarbonate for the caddy and save a few bucks there.
> 
> Just a few ideas from my,admittedly,not too bright pointy head.


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

Attached is a file of how I built skis using aluminum rails. Nothing fancy, but it works very well, and there is no flex, even if I guide using the router handles which is not typical. The skis are used for the handles and make the whole set up very easy annd accurate to manuver.

Bob, yours look like they will be bit more complex than the ones I built. I am very interested in seeing the outcome.

I have learned all I know about skis on this forum, and I am still learning!

There are also some links to other ski threads that my helpout.

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/29019-first-use-my-skis.html

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/25155-wanted-pictures-your-skiis.html


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Well done Darrin, a very neat solution for a router without holes for the rods. How will the router lock to the rails?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

Just a butt in post 

====



harrysin said:


> Well done Darrin, a very neat solution for a router without holes for the rods. How will the router lock to the rails?


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

harrysin said:


> Well done Darrin, a very neat solution for a router without holes for the rods. How will the router lock to the rails?


Harry,
Here are the two best pictures I have on my computer that show the knobs that hold everything in place.

Thanks!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

A truly first class job Darrin, go to the top of the class! 10/10


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

harrysin said:


> A truly first class job Darrin, go to the top of the class! 10/10


Thanks Harry! 

Notice that cutter? That's the one BJ recommended from eBay. It's well worth it. I wish I would have had that 3612C on the skis while I was using it. The Porter Cable 690 was just a little overwhelmed.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Darrin

Now that you have had chance to use yours you now know that's it not a bit deal that the router needs to move up and down the rods/rails like may think, it just needs to slide on the ski out riggers..the one below I made some time back (9-26-2008) to plane wood down..and to hold the PC type router...and others that don't have the big holes for the rods...

Note this plate will take on the big 1 1/2" brass (OP type) guides easy a real plus for template work,it will take 1 1/4" OD bit for fast planing jobs.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-pc-1-2-Sh...588739866?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item20bbbded1a

=======


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## jamesamd (Jul 21, 2011)

Very innovative designs!!
Well done Gentlemen.
Jim


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

jamesamd said:


> Very innovative designs!!
> Well done Gentlemen.
> Jim


Thanks James! This forum is full of useful information!


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## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

Can you tell me:

1) Does the the springs force (springyness?sp ) equal the weight of the router ? 25# router = 25# spring ?

2) What is the diameter of the shafts ?

Nice job....

I like your idea with springs and 'locking collars.

So when you set up the router , you place them in this order....
1)wing nut 
2) washer
3) wooden plate you made
3) washer
4) locking collar
5) router
6) to follow 4,3,2,&1 

I hope you understand my "question".


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