# Auger Bits Mortising In Drill Press



## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

I did a search on using auger bits in a drill press. A few people thought there were safety issues if they were not used in a hand brace. I want to try the drill press method for mortising interior and exterior house door joints. 
What are the views of forum members to try using auger bits for this? If auger bits are safe to use, any views on which types would be best for hard and softwoods?
" Auger bit types
I have always heard that the pitch of the lead screw is the determining factor that relates to wood type use. Fine threads = hardwood. Medium pitch is for softer hardwoods. Coarse pitch lead screw threads for softwoods. I have sets of the fine and coarse auger bits. Haven't found meduim thread bits yet. In use the thread pitch determines the rate the tool feeds into the wood and of course the faster coarse pitch works in soft woods. In hardwood the coarse pitch will strip out and the bit stops cutting. " Did a quick search on types, found this bit of info don't know if this refers to brace bits or ones that can fit in a powered drill.
Cheers.
Peter.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Gaia said:


> I did a search on using auger bits in a drill press. A few people thought there were safety issues if they were not used in a hand brace.


Hi Peter

Who are these people? The only potential issue is that the threaded point might pull in too fast and lift the bit. If that's happening then there are two or possibly three things wrong; firstly the rotation speed is too high - a 19mm auger bit does not need to rotate at 3,000 rpm, 250 to 400rpm is fine and a lot more controllable - secondly the workpiece isn't properly secured - clamp the workpiece to the table, that way there will be less tendency to lift - thirdly the bit isn't being advanced into the wood quickly enough - auger bits draw themselves in using the threaded nose, if this is a coarse pitch (and for machine drilling and/or hardwood drilling a fine pitch thread is what you need - avoid the Irwin pattern coarse thread augers at all cost) then the rate at which the bit pulls in can be adjusted by judicious filing of the thread to blunt its' effect. Most jobs I go on there is a need to drive auger bits in a cordless or corded hand drill - slow speed is the way to go to control the action of the auger



Gaia said:


> What are the views of forum members to try using auger bits for this? If auger bits are safe to use, any views on which types would be best for hard and softwoods?
> " Auger bit types
> I have always heard that the pitch of the lead screw is the determining factor that relates to wood type use. Fine threads = hardwood. Medium pitch is for softer hardwoods. Coarse pitch lead screw threads for softwoods. I have sets of the fine and coarse auger bits. Haven't found meduim thread bits yet"
> 
> Did a quick search on types, found this bit of info don't know if this refers to brace bits or ones that can fit in a powered drill.


The info refers to brace and bit...... Maybe back in the seventies before cordless tools came in you'd have found all three types of thread, same as you'd have found Gedge and Scotch pattern augers at a pinch. That information was presumably being posted by someone who's read a 50 to 60 year old text book - and is just no longer relevant in today's tool market (unless you want to go hunting antique tools). The world has moved on (whilst the old text books haven't) and the range available these days is much reduced, but the Chinese (who make most of the auger bits on the market) don't seem to be in the least bit concerned that their tools have some fundamental design flaws. Clico in Sheffield can supply different threads, but they're probably to last ones to do so and they aren't cheap. That's why some of us have adopted the file trick to control auger cutting. 

When you watch them most tradesmen in the field will rough out a mortise with anything to hand then finish off with a mallet and chisel (I'm no different) so to them the quality of the drilled holes isn't paramount - in the shop the vast majority of joiners will use a square chisel (or other type) mortiser, hence the need for high quality auger bits with all sorts of noses and threads is much diminished

Regards

Phil


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Phil P said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> Who are these people? The only potential issue is that the threaded point might pull in too fast and lift the bit. If that's happening then there are two or possibly three things wrong; firstly the rotation speed is too high - a 19mm auger bit does not need to rotate at 3,000 rpm, 250 to 400rpm is fine and a lot more controllable - secondly the workpiece isn't properly secured - clamp the workpiece to the table, that way there will be less tendency to lift - thirdly the bit isn't being advanced into the wood quickly enough - auger bits draw themselves in using the threaded nose, if this is a coarse pitch (and for machine drilling and/or hardwood drilling a fine pitch thread is what you need - avoid the Irwin pattern coarse thread augers at all cost) then the rate at which the bit pulls in can be adjusted by judicious filing of the thread to blunt its' effect. Most jobs I go on there is a need to drive auger bits in a cordless or corded hand drill - slow speed is the way to go to control the action of the auger
> 
> ...


OK thanks. I'll try the drill press approach and also the router method, see which I prefer. Will practise on scrap softwood. When I come to drill into hardwoods, Clico don't have a web site, I've had a 5 minute look on Google but can't see any carbide tipped wood auger bits, are these available, as well as titanium-coated ones?

" judicious filing of the thread to blunt its' effect. " 
Can you explain this process? 
Are there different types of auger files?
Cheers.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Peter


Gaia said:


> Clico don't have a web site


Well they didn't, but they do now, here. You'll probably have to ring them for further details and if you het a catalogue it won't be a glossy colour thing uinless they've changed their approach (my last one was printed in black on cream paper with a few kline drawings). Their main line used to be HSS spiral cutters for the aerospace industry used for CNC milling of aluminium and composites and pretty much everything else was secondary. I believe they got into auger bits because they "acquired" the appropriate skilled guy(s) from Record-Ridgeway some years back, but they also make Clifton planes and are a firm with a "quality" attitufde IMHO. With the demise of Footprint there are very few people left in Sheffield who can produce a hand-made auger bit (which are always thinner/lighter and stronger than mass made ones I'm told). Clico are one of them



Gaia said:


> I've had a 5 minute look on Google but can't see any carbide tipped wood auger bits, are these available, as well as titanium-coated ones?


Carbides just aren't available. I can't see why they would be - carbide edges are much less sharp than HSS which in turn are less sharp than tool steel, and to cut wood you need a sharp edge. You can get TCT brad point and V-point twist drills - they are often specifically for high production CNC drilling of composite wood products and can be rather brittle for everyday use in timber (the tips can and will shatter if you hit a calcite or meral inclusion in the timber). Both Trend and Titman sell them

I have seen TiN (totanium nitride - gold coloured) coated auger sets from China but they're little more than a gimmick. Clico and the remaining high-quality German makers, Famag and Colt (also possibly Fisch) don't seem to do them which may be indicative of their opinions on the subject. The problem with auger bits is that they go blunt in use and need to be maintained buy the user using either a trihook oilstone slip or an auger bit file. The last people making these were Nicholson in the USA, but from the looks of this article they've been _"rationalised"_ out of existence. One problem with TiN is that it doesn't work for that long (it wears away at which point you need to start sharpening conventionally and the TiN-coated edges wear out your slips) and is often used as a way to disguise mediocre-quality tool steel and second-rate hardening, especially by the Chinese. For that reason I tend o avoid it in woodworking tools - too many bad experiences

Correction: Lie-Nielsen has found a manufacturer of auger bit files in India



Gaia said:


> " judicious filing of the thread to blunt its' effect. "
> Can you explain this process?


Yes. You use a small warding file in a handle to flatten the thread. in effect to blunt it. This is done with the auger bit held in a vice. You only need a couple of strikes to reduce the sharpness of the threads, but a warning, this approach will require greater pressure to drive the tool into the wood.

Regards

Phil


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## elrodqfudp (Sep 5, 2011)

I have used auger bits in my drill press with no problems.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

elrodqfudp said:


> I have used auger bits in my drill press with no problems.


OK thanks.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Correction: Lie-Nielsen has found a manufacturer of auger bit files in India


Yes. You use a small warding file in a handle to flatten the thread. in effect to blunt it. This is done with the auger bit held in a vice. You only need a couple of strikes to reduce the sharpness of the threads, but a warning, this approach will require greater pressure to drive the tool into the wood.

Regards

Phil[/QUOTE]
THe article, RIP: The Nicholson Auger Bit File has a good tutorial on sharpening auger bits.
Which type of warding file would be best to blunt the thread?
What a mine of interesting, helpful information you are.
Cheers.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Gaia said:


> Which type of warding file would be best to blunt the thread?


Hi Peter

It's a case of whatever comes to hand. A fine (2nd cut) will obviously be more controllable (i.e. cut slower)

Regards

Phil


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Phil P said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> It's a case of whatever comes to hand. A fine (2nd cut) will obviously be more controllable (i.e. cut slower)
> 
> ...


OK.
Cheers.


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## elrodqfudp (Sep 5, 2011)

It is not necessary to do anything to the auger bit. You will not be depending on the lead screw to pull the auger in, the drill press is doing that. The lead screw will not pull the bit in any faster than you feed it with the drill press.

A number of people seem to have theories on what to do. I have experience doing this hundreds if not thousands of times. Don't mangle up a good tool.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

elrodqfudp said:


> It is not necessary to do anything to the auger bit. You will not be depending on the lead screw to pull the auger in, the drill press is doing that. The lead screw will not pull the bit in any faster than you feed it with the drill press.
> 
> A number of people seem to have theories on what to do. I have experience doing this hundreds if not thousands of times. Don't mangle up a good tool.


OK if I use an auger I won't modify it, if have problems will think again.
Cheers.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

elrodqfudp said:


> A number of people seem to have theories on what to do. I have experience doing this hundreds if not thousands of times. Don't mangle up a good tool.


No theory, Browne, nut the experience of a full time working joiner. It is always best to start out with the tool as it comes. Modifications become necessary as any defects or "features" become more evident

Regards

Phil


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