# best circular saw blade



## hilcntry (Apr 3, 2014)

Greetings!
Like many others, I have to break down plywood with a circular saw. I get it done by cutting panels oversize and blue tape over the cut line. Was wondering what others found as the best circular blade to use to minimize tear out.

tia
hilcntry


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Plywood blades are nicer than carbide to ply. 
Another issue could be your fence to blade relation, parallel? .001 too tight at the outfeed end of the blade will tear the cut on the top a tape measure and your eyes won't see the .001 except for the results.
You could try a precut slice with a utility knife to see if it helps.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Ghidrah said:


> Plywood blades are nicer than carbide to ply.
> Another issue could be your fence to blade relation, parallel? .001 too tight at the outfeed end of the blade will tear the cut on the top a tape measure and your eyes won't see the .001 except for the results.
> You could try a precut slice with a utility knife to see if it helps.


Look at the blade charts for your diam. of blade, most good manufacturers have them in the tool catalogs, they call out the plywood blades. The ones I have from Freud are very good.
Herb


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## Rogerdodge (Apr 24, 2014)

I use a track saw (Makita) You can make a scoring cut first, then carry on through. Smoove.


Rog


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

hilcntry said:


> Greetings!
> Like many others, I have to break down plywood with a circular saw. I get it done by cutting panels oversize and blue tape over the cut line. Was wondering what others found as the best circular blade to use to minimize tear out.
> 
> tia
> hilcntry


Freud...
40 and 60 tooth ATB ultra finish....

http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=n:552292,p_4:Freud,p_n_size_browse-bin:387625011

the D07 or the LU79R....


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

At least a 40 tooth. The tip about making the saw's base plate parallel to the blade is important. My saw was almost a 1/16" out. I had to drive one of the pins out and shim it into line. I get very smooth cuts with a 40 tooth now.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Herb,

No doubt they do have quality carbide ply blades, I haven't bought a new blade in nearly 6 yrs. I have so many Rip CC and combo blades from 3 1/2 to 12" I'll never have to buy another as long as I can keep them undamaged and get them sharpened. I've had the 8" ply blade for at least 20 yrs, the last time I pulled it out for work was for the 3/4" oak veneer ply base for a water bed platform early 2011.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I break down plywood sheets outside of my shop because my shop is small. I can cut the pieces very accurately with the following method. It's so accurate that I don't need to even trim them to size on the table saw, unless I'm making something where the pieces need to be cut to within a few thousandths of an inch accuracy. 

I have a 30 X 70" table that is just a 1 X 4 rectangular frame with 2 X 4 cross pieces laid flat and flush with the upper edge of the 1 X 4 frame. These 2 X 4 pieces are placed only where the legs and leg braces need to attach plus one across the center of the table, for a total of 5. The 2 X 4's and 1 X 4's are all joined together with biscuits and glue. There is no solid top on this table. It's just a frame. The only metal in the whole table is the conference table leg assemblies and the 1/2" long screws that attach them. There is no metal anywhere in the top 3/4" of the table frame, so no chance of hitting metal with the saw blade. 

I use this table much like a pair of saw horses, setting my saw blade depth to cut the thickness of the plywood sheet that I'm breaking down, plus 1/8 to 1/4". I don't worry about making the saw kerfs in the top surface of the table. If It ever appears to be weak from too many shallow cuts I can always make a replacement and transfer the legs to it, but it's going on 14 years now and the table isn't anywhere near ready to replace. The beauty of using this table is that when you make a cut, the pieces remain on the table. Gravity keeps them there. Nothing falls to the ground or the floor and the off cut don't break from the main piece as you reach the end of the cut either. Every cut is clean all the way to the end. When the work is complete, the table legs fold up into the 1 X 4 frame of the table and it stores on edge, leaning against my sheets of plywood at the end of my shop. I bought the banquet table legs from Woodworker Supply. Woodworker.com: EBCO HEAVY DUTY BANQUET TABLE LEGS

For splinter free cuts I made a 1/4" thick base to attach to the shoe of my circular saw. I attach it to the saw base with two 8-32 flat head bolts and nuts, countersinking the bolt heads in the base, one through the front and one through the back of the saw base. Once attached, I plunge cut the blade down through this base, then mark the area where the blade guard needs to go through this base to operate safely, but it's important not to remove the area around the leading edge of the blade. This area will function as a zero clearance insert to prevent the blade teeth from chipping the wood as the teeth rise up through the wood being cut. Now remove this base and cut away the material that prevents the blade guard from operating. Re-attach this base to your saw and it is ready to cut splinter free panels. I use a thin kerf high tooth count (60) carbide combination blade for breaking down plywood.

I have two aluminum Pro Grip wide body straight edge clamps, a 50" and a 105" long, that I bought from Peach Tree Woodworking PRO-Grip Straight Edge Clamps (located about 1/3 of the way down the page). These straight edges work very well and clamp easily to the sheets.

I eventually want to make a thicker saw base with dados in it so that it will allow the saw to ride on top of these extruded straight edge clamps, like a track saw but cheaper, but I haven't done this yet. 

If anybody wants pictures of all of this, I'll take them and post them.

Charley


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

CharleyL said:


> I break down plywood sheets outside of my shop because my shop is small. I can cut the pieces very accurately with the following method. It's so accurate that I don't need to even trim them to size on the table saw, unless I'm making something where the pieces need to be cut to within a few thousandths of an inch accuracy.
> 
> I have a 30 X 70" table that is just a 1 X 4 rectangular frame with 2 X 4 cross pieces laid flat and flush with the upper edge of the 1 X 4 frame. These 2 X 4 pieces are placed only where the legs and leg braces need to attach plus one across the center of the table, for a total of 5. The 2 X 4's and 1 X 4's are all joined together with biscuits and glue. There is no solid top on this table. It's just a frame. The only metal in the whole table is the conference table leg assemblies and the 1/2" long screws that attach them. There is no metal anywhere in the top 3/4" of the table frame, so no chance of hitting metal with the saw blade.
> 
> ...


Post the pictures Charley. That is interesting.

Herb


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Herb

Like Charley I, too, make-up 7 x 3ft breaking down tables out on the job site. They are literally just a couple of 3 x 2 rails (or even 2 x 2) with half a dozen or so 3ft lengths of 2 x 2in softwood screwed across the top - with the screws sunk well under so I can't hit them with a saw tooth. This is dropped onto a couple of trestles, either the fold-away portable type or some quick and dirty timber trestles made for the duration of the job then thrown away. The actual breaking down I do with a Festool TS55, dust extractor (ShopVac) and guide rails, but a standard circular saw with home-made guide rails (8ft or 5ft strip of 6mm plywood with 2 x 1in softwood lath screwed down one edge) would do almost as well. For standard breaking down I use a 48 tooth ATB blades (Festool or Atkinson-Walker - a Sheffield brand) whilst for melamine and veneered stuff I tend to use a Festool 48 tooth triple chip grind because TCG always produces less chip-out than ATB on brittle/fragile surfaces. The Festool blades are 160mm (6-1/2in) I have a couple of pics of just such a set up out on a job, so I'll try to post them later on.

On the table saw I tend to use a 48 to 60 tooth ATB blade on standard plywoods with a 96 to 108 tooth triple chip blade for melamine-faced and veneered stock. Blades are 12in. Brands I have (that you'll know) include Tenryu, Leitz and Guhdo - all better than equivalent CMT or Freud IMHO. I've recently added a 100 tooth high angle ATB blade which cuts well when sharp, but the blade seems to go off a lot faster than the TCG blades and I've had problems finding a sharpening shop who can deal with it

Regards

Phil


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Herb Stoops said:


> Post the pictures Charley. That is interesting.
> 
> Herb


Herb,

I'll post pictures as soon as I can take them. The Weather isn't so good here today, so it may take me a day or so, unless I can get out there between the showers.

Charley


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

thanks. I'll be looking forward to them.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

OK, the Weather isn't so good here today and it was raining slightly. I went inside the shop and took a few pictures of my circular saw zero clearance insert. Then went outside and got my cutting table and clamps out and took some pictures of them. No plywood cutting today. I'm not even going to try to get plywood out in this Weather. The first picture is the sky above me today.

After looking closely at my zero clearance insert in the photos, I think it's time that I made a new one, but you can see how it's supposed to work from this one. The material for this zero clearance insert is 3/16" Lexan, but it could be almost anything. I would avoid Plexiglass because it shatters too easily, but thin plywood or hardboard would work fine. You can't see much of the cut line anyway, even if it is clear. Make sure you leave a large opening to allow the blade guard to operate properly, but keep the area where the blade teeth rise up through the insert.

The next photos show my cutting table folded up and then opened. The last photo shows both of my extruded aluminum guide clamps. Their clamp design is much like all of the other smaller extruded aluminum guides, but the aluminum part is wider and less fragile in the longer lengths like these. You will notice 2 small pieces of plywood attached to the top side of the table. They are each held on with one screw that is off center so I can rotate them to extend above the table or turn them to be down below the top surface. When I'm alone, getting full sheets onto the table has become more difficult for me as I'm getting older (72 now), so I can turn these pieces up, tilt the table over on it's side with these pieces down against the driveway, set the edge of a sheet of plywood on these and lean it against the table. Then I bend down and lift the table with the plywood on it to it's upright position. I can then turn these pieces so they are out of the way and then center the plywood on the table to begin breaking it down. I'm thinking of a modification for these pieces to improve them a bit. I'll post about this after I have finished them.

If I missed a view that you need or you have any questions I'll be glad to answer them and take more pictures if needed.

Charley


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## Botelho007 (Sep 23, 2012)

hilcntry said:


> Greetings!
> Like many others, I have to break down plywood with a circular saw. I get it done by cutting panels oversize and blue tape over the cut line. Was wondering what others found as the best circular blade to use to minimize tear out.
> 
> tia
> hilcntry


I have used this:
Freud LU79R007 Perma-Shield Coated Ultimate Plywood and Melamine Saw Blade, 5/8-Inch Arbor 7-1/4-Inch by 60t Hi-ATB 38-Degree - Circular Saw Blades - Amazon.com

Cutting MDF.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=083eyQZRdX8


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

My panel saw-- 24 tooth scoring blades, 80 tooth main blade.

But previous to that, poor man's breakdown table = saw horses with four 2x3's. I've had those same four 2x3's with me for about 10 years. They are sacrificial. My saw horse are folding w/ adjustable legs. On quality ply- I used 60 tooth 7-1/4" thin kerfs. I would tape the planned cut with blue tape, mark, score with a box knife, use a cutting guide... Make a shallow scoring cut (1/16" deep), then a full cut.

Would do it in one cut on the Rockwell, but the same prep: Mark, tape, remark, score w/ knife, cut with saw.

Much faster an easier with the panel saw. I don't even tape it any more (no need).


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Do you use your table saw without a zero clearance insert? Then why do you insist on using a circular saw without one if you are trying to avoid chipping/splintering the wood at the cut line?

You should all make a zero clearance base/insert for the circular saws that you use to break down plywood and to cut melamine. It's easy to make and it really makes a difference. You will only know how much if you try it.

Charley


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

CharleyL said:


> You should all make a zero clearance base/insert for the circular saws that you use to break down plywood and to cut melamine. It's easy to make and it really makes a difference.


Hi Charley

Mike's approach with a pre-scorer unit really works. My saw doesn't have one, so I "make-do" with a high angle ATB blade on melamine faced materials. Works almost as well, but you need to keep on top of the sharpening

Regards

Phil


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Charley--

When you are a carpenter, there are some tools that just go everywhere with you. I've got a worm drive that has been with me to almost every jobsite for years on end.

My circular saw has been one of those close at hand kinds of tools. ...an extension of me. over the years, I mod'ed it also. It started out as a Skil Saw model 77. 

- First was the framing hook. Indispensable for hanging on rafters, so it stays even if you fall.

- Longer cord. So you can lower to the ground safely, sao you can climb down juggling other things.

- Swapped out the orginal steel foot with a magnesium foot from a Bosch CSW41. Slides better without gouging your work, Lighter. a rule and better graduations for angles and the rize.

- always had a roll of blue tape to put on the foot to keep from scratching a pre-finished surface.

- I've made a zero clearance hardboard shoe that bolted to the foot.

There are my goto tools for a jobsite... But when at the shop? I've made zero clearance inserts for my Rockwell shop saw. I posted a thread on how to make those here in ths section.

I bought 6 spare inserts for the panel saw when I bought it. I just made measurements and plans for "fabricate" some new ones for it. I say fabricate, because the inserts for that saw look like something aeronautical. They are about 24" long and about 1-1/2" wide... It has a rabbeted edge on 3 slides, where it just slides in and locks into place with a snap lock.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

My breakdowns are done on my 46X80 work bench. 
A piece of 2.5" insulating foam covers the bench to protect it.
My homemade track saw is an 8' length of 3/4 BB with a T track in a dado. A short piece of mating track insert is bolted to the bottom of my Skil 77. 
The first cut established the cut line. No need for figuring offsets. Just lay the ply edge on the lines, clamp it and cut. 
With a Tenryu plywood blade, the cuts are clean and splinter free and ready for use without further trimming.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

CharleyL said:


> OK, the Weather isn't so good here today and it was raining slightly. I went inside the shop and took a few pictures of my circular saw zero clearance insert. Then went outside and got my cutting table and clamps out and took some pictures of them. No plywood cutting today. I'm not even going to try to get plywood out in this Weather. The first picture is the sky above me today.
> 
> After looking closely at my zero clearance insert in the photos, I think it's time that I made a new one, but you can see how it's supposed to work from this one. The material for this zero clearance insert is 3/16" Lexan, but it could be almost anything. I would avoid Plexiglass because it shatters too easily, but thin plywood or hardboard would work fine. You can't see much of the cut line anyway, even if it is clear. Make sure you leave a large opening to allow the blade guard to operate properly, but keep the area where the blade teeth rise up through the insert.
> 
> ...


Good idea on the ZC for you circular saw. I like your fold up cutting table.

Used to be able to carry 2 sheets of 3/4" plywood, now can't even pick up one. LOL

Herb


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Thanks Herb,

I also cannot pick up a full sheet of 3/4 plywood anymore, but I have a plan. 

I just acquired a pair of 10" lawn mower wheels, and will soon be making a wheeled carrier for one end of the sheet of plywood so I can move them around and out to my break down table much easier, and without help. The plywood tabs on one side of my break down table are there to help me get the sheet onto the table, but I have to get the sheet from my shop storage area and out to the table before they can be of any help to me. The wheeled carrier will be a U shaped metal piece with one lawnmower wheel on each side of the U shape. I'll be able to pick up one end of the plywood and put the U under it. This will put a 10" wheel on each side of the plywood. I can then go to the other end of the plywood, pick it up, and I'll only need to carry half the weight of the sheet as I move it around and to my break down table. I salvaged all 4 wheels and axles off of a lawn mower with a blown engine and the rear two wheels are larger than the front two. I'll be using these two larger wheels to build the sheet carrier, so it will traverse over rougher terrain than it would with the smaller wheels. Anybody need a pair of small wheels and axles? They would work if you don't need to go over grass or transitions in the pavement. You pay the postage and they are yours. 

Charley


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CharleyL said:


> Thanks Herb,
> 
> I also cannot pick up a full sheet of 3/4 plywood anymore, but I have a plan.
> 
> Charley


me either...
can I offer another plan from Wood Magazine...

this video is a real idea creator...
wb280-shuttle-video


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