# Adapting a tablesaw table for a table-mounted router



## JWG1944 (Oct 23, 2009)

I have a new Delta Unisaw with a 52" table. I'm thinking of removing the drawer under the table on the right side, reconfiguring the steel support that runs down the middle of the underside of the table (removing it, shortening it, and turning it 90 degrees), and then cutting a hole for a plate to mount the router under. I would attach a router fence to my existing Beismeier tablesaw fence. 

Question: Has anyone ever done this? If not, think it's feasible. Main reasons are to save space and take advantage of the nice square fence. I'd also probably rout a groove for a miter fence.

If anyone has done this, I'd love some advice and pictures.

Jim Good, Corvallis, Oregon


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## demaX (Apr 16, 2009)

To answer your Q. YES a lot of people have done so. It saves space and may also give you a larger router table surface. It's quite feasible and you seem to be on the right road per your posting. I would search YouTube for pictures or images on google.

For info only. I didn't find the time to do so. So I just mount my Rockler Table to the Table saw. Its fast and simple when one has no time.


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## ballandclaw (Jul 21, 2010)

I just bought the same saw and have the same idea. I have a cast iron router table on the saw I'm selling and like it but can't find a 3/4 inch thick cast iron top to replace the 3/4 extension. I'll probably mount a plate in the extension, rout a grove for a miter gague track and put in a couple t tracks to mount the fence . I don't use the saw fence for the router so I can leave the router set up and still use the saw.
But all this is just planning now because the saw I bought as a "barely used demo" needs waranty repairs to loosen the riving knife and fix a couple other things.


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## ietech (Aug 21, 2010)

Yes, I have done this. I replaced the table extensions on my Craftsman table saw with a plate designed to have the router attached to the underside of the new table extension.

The plate is made of melamine to eliminate expansion and contraction as much as possible, not to mention a really smooth surface on the melamine that has very little resistance on the stock when routing.

It still works as an extension too. I also fitted the back side of my fence with a smooth and parallel bar to serve as a fence for the router. Works great.


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## drwood (Sep 3, 2010)

I am installing a router in my Sawstop PCS extension wing. It is working out great so far.


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## wi53211 (Sep 20, 2010)

drwood said:


> I am installing a router in my Sawstop PCS extension wing. It is working out great so far.


I would be very interested i seeing what you are doing with your pcs/router
I will start cutting on mine next week, any tips or pictures?

Thanks
Chad


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the forums Chad.


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## wi53211 (Sep 20, 2010)

Hi Dave , thanks for the tips.
I will start to get a grip with this stuff in short order.


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## Raymondabel (Dec 18, 2009)

I have a setup almost like yours but with the inca set & I love it.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

I'm planning on doing the same thing with my Unisaw but since I have extremely limited experience using a router table, I'm building a small, portable one to use and see what I want in a router table before I cut a hole in my extension. I've learned a lot so far. I should be finishing up the fence this weekend.


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## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

wi53211 said:


> I would be very interested i seeing what you are doing with your pcs/router
> I will start cutting on mine next week, any tips or pictures?
> 
> Thanks
> Chad


 Here are a few pictures of the plate I installed on my ICS SawStop I think the extension wings are the same.


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## oldhippie1951 (Oct 1, 2010)

mikeddd said:


> Here are a few pictures of the plate I installed on my ICS SawStop I think the extension wings are the same.


Is that silicone around the router plate underneath?


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

oldhippie1951 said:


> Is that silicone around the router plate underneath?


I don't see any silicon. maybe you're just seeing the reflection of the flash (off the aluminum plate).


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## Chris Roeder (Oct 3, 2010)

*Router Table*

I mounted my shop built router table on the end of my work bench hinge mount so I can lay it down out of the way. The reason I, posting is not where I mounted it but a few ideas for you. My table is 3/4 plywood glued to 3/8 plywood with the router base opening cut into the 3/8 pryer to glueing to give me more cutting depth then I wraped it with a oak boarder for a better apperance. Rockler has some great hardware for router tables such as miter track t-slot bolts and hand knobs also I covered it with formica for a smooth and durable surface finally I put sticky back measuring tape on the table for fence alignment which I purchased from rockler. With a table saw and router table you can build the world.


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## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

oldhippie1951 said:


> Is that silicone around the router plate underneath?


 No there is no silicone underneath, the plate just sits in the hole held by gravity. I think as others have replied it is from the flash of the camera.


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## Raymondabel (Dec 18, 2009)

oldhippie1951 said:


> Is that silicone around the router plate underneath?


AFAIAK, there is no silicone in my shop


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## DGK (Oct 8, 2010)

The ONE bad thing about this forum is that every time I read one of these threads that explores ideas I immediately grab a pencil and start redesigning the router table I am going to build...I'll never get the thing built at this rate. :laugh:

On a side note (and only related because of its overly simplistic yet functional qualities) my first table saw (25 years or so ago) was an old circular saw screwed to and plunged through a double layer of 3/4 plyboard and flipped upside down across some sawhorses. It appears that my home-made router table is bringing me fill circle.


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## clm (Sep 29, 2010)

drwood said:


> I am installing a router in my Sawstop PCS extension wing. It is working out great so far.


Do you have any pictures you can share. The Sawstop PCS with router inlay is what I'm thinking about.

tks
Curt


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## RLK (Dec 14, 2009)

*Delta Unisaw Router Table Modifications*

Hi All! My new saw will be delivered in 10 days or so. I am really wanting to add a router, mainly to take advantage of the saws table, biesemeyer fence and of course the space advantage. Would love any tips, tricks, tecniques and pictures. 

I would describe myself as an advanced beginner. 
:help:
Thanks so very much.


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## WolfCoug (Dec 2, 2010)

Hi, I just received a Porter Cable 895 that I want to mount to the cast iron router table extension on my 10" craftsman table saw. The three little screws that hold on the plastic base look totally inadequate! My old ryobi bolted on securely with three 5/16" bolts. How can the 895 be safely mounted under a cast iron table? I can drill holes in the table as necessary. My shop space does not have room for a separate router table.
Thanks for any guidance you can provide.
Gary


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## theexpozay (Oct 4, 2011)

*Benchdog 40-102*

I hope it is not considered to bad form around here to revive old threads I did not want to start a new one when there seemed to be one that addressed the subject of my question.

I am considering adding a left mounted RT to my Rigid 10 table saw, the Benchdog 40-102. It looks like a good way to save some space as I have half of one side of a 2 car garage at my disposal. The other half is filled with filling cabinets. (my dad retired from law a few years ago and has to store his files for about 7 years all 14 of the darn things)

In a couple years when I can finally get rid of the filing cabinets I will have some more space to work with and at this time I plan to build a stand alone router table. In the interim this system looks like it will fit the bill. It looks well built and it has good reviews on Amazon. I like the size and it would certainly add some nice features to my table-saw. First a second miter slot to the left of the blade, Second a smooth and larger wing left of my blade, and third the option of taking the would-be-unused left wing and adding it, with legs to the right to expand my right wing.

I have read that some of these table saw mounted options can be noisy and difficult. Does anyone have any experience with this unit or one comparable? 



Any thoughts?


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## mikeddd (Sep 25, 2010)

Hello Michael:
I use to have a Ridgid 3650 which I added an MDF extension on the right side with a router mounted in it, with that set up I needed to add a support leg on the right side of the saw. If you mount a cast iron extension on the left hand side with a router mounted in it and move your existing cast iron extension to the right side it might balance out pretty good, you may not even need to add a leg. I find the table saw mounted router tables to work very well, but they are noisy if the router is left open, if thats a concern for you one could always build a box out of plywood around the router, that could also help with dust collection.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Saw mounted router tables are popular with people who are limited on space but they are not the best choice for several reasons. They are usually difficult to make adjustments on; they are too low for comfortable working posture; you have to constantly change set ups. Understanding the need to save space in a small work area I think a better choice is to build a router table that will slide under the saw wing for storage. Better yet, build a double sided storage cabinet to slide under the saw table which will free up other space in your shop. A router table should be 3-6" under your elbow for maximum working comfort and that is almost always higher than a saw table.


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## theexpozay (Oct 4, 2011)

Mikeddd,
Thank you both for you thoughts. I need to put one of the wings on a scale to see how much it weighs. My table is from about 1998 and I can not seem to find it on the internet and the paperwork is long gone. I suspect you may be right however. Since the current wings are shorter than the new wing and they are not solid. If anything, it may still be heavy to the left (the side with the RT)

Mike (from mod team)
I see what you mean about comfortable working height. After reading your post I decided to perform a quick experiment. I currently have an old Craftsman table top router table (router is a PC 690) To see how the height would be I took off its legs and clamped it to the the side of my Table Saw. I ran a couple of passed with some scrap wood on it with various bits and cuts. I can see how prolonged use may become exhausting. However for the general weekend use I will need it for, it seemed ok. Incidentally I found cutting dadoes to be easier this way then others I have tried.

Since it has been so long since I have done any real wood working, I am not sure I am confident enough yet to try to build a custom table. (I have been "out of the game" for about 10 years now) After I get to expand my shop my first order of business is going to be to build a custom RT and new long bench. I am thinking that if all goes well with this wing RT in the future I may be able to keep it set up for use as a jointer.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Mike said:


> Saw mounted router tables are popular with people who are limited on space but they are not the best choice for several reasons. They are usually difficult to make adjustments on; _*they are too low for comfortable working posture*_; you have to constantly change set ups. Understanding the need to save space in a small work area I think a better choice is to _*build a router table that will slide under the saw wing for storage*_. Better yet, build a double sided storage cabinet to slide under the saw table which will free up other space in your shop. _*A router table should be 3-6" under your elbow for maximum working comfort and that is almost always higher than a saw table*_.


 
I see some contradicitons here. If making a router table fir under a table saw, wouldn't it be even lower than if it were incorporated into the table saw?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Robert, it's not a contradiction. Your table should be as described but we all have to adapt to our circumstances. A table that "slides under the saw wing for storage" is exactly that, storage being the key word. There are many solutions for raising the table to working height which is different for everyone. By way of example I am 6'4" so my table is higher than many people would be comfortable with.(Harry would have to use a step stool to work on it!)

Michael, many people build elegant router tables that would be considered fine furniture. To me a router table is simply a tool to accomplish a job and doesn't need to be fancy, it just needs to perform well. The table top in the sticky thread allows you to do just about anything you can think of. "Keep it simple."


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## theexpozay (Oct 4, 2011)

Mike,

I noticed reading through the threads, especially the table top thread that "keep it simple" has been your mantra. The only place I find myself in disagreement is with T-track. I have found that track is very useful, I Have had the need to use a miter before and the track made that possible.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Michael, There are two schools of thought on using T tracks and miter slots; neither is wrong. If you are more comfortable using them by all means do so. Miter slots are required for aligning to a flat surface such as a saw blade or disk sander. With round bits they are not required. The only important thing is keeping the work aligned with the bit and that can be done with a fence, guide bushing or bearing. T tracks are one method for mounting accessories to your table or fence. Clamping accessories in position is another way which has no restrictions on angle or distance plus nothing on your table surface to catch dust that could cause misalignment or snag your work. Both ways work and again you should use what you are most comfortable with. I have tried both ways and have found the "Keep it simple" methods that Bob and Rick taught on the Router Workshop TV program work best for me.(I checked the recipe before I drank the Kool-Aid!) Before the TV show Bob conducted seminars and used a rubber ruler to illustrate that measurements could be deceiving. It is way too easy to make a mistake and ruin a piece.(I have made my share) The important thing is the end results and this is why I use set up and stop blocks or templates when possible to guaranty identical pieces. Learning other ways to complete projects is one of the best parts of the forums. My methods are the ways I prefer to work and I share them with others for their consideration. They are not carved on stone tablets. By sharing we all learn new things so please keep participating.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Mike said:


> There are many solutions for raising the table to working height ...


Can you point me to some of these?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Each table has unique features that determine how to get it to the proper working height. When I pull my Oak Park table from it's storage position(which is on top of a large cabinet) I simply set it on a pair of saw horses and clamp it in place. Doesn't get any easier than that. I have seen rolling stands with two wide end supports for the table. The table gets turned 90º and it drops down between the supports for storage. One design had 3/4" plywood sides which extended about 18" past the table bottom. Each side had two slots which adjusted like a ski jig; there were two carriage bolts in each side of the base and knobs with fender washers to lock the table at the desired height. This table was lifted with a scissors jack in the center. Another design had swing down legs that were hinged to each end. You rolled it into location, lifted one end at a time and removed a dowel pin letting the legs swing down and then lock in position by inserting the dowel into a different hole. One simple design had a rectangular riser box which was smaller than the table bottom. You had to lift the table off the base, set the riser in position on the base which was the same size as the table bottom and then set the table on the riser. The riser was just small enough to fit onto a shelf in the base. To keep the table and riser from shifting a square of plywood was attached to the bottom of each and there were identical holes cut into the riser top and base for these squares to fit in. When the riser was removed the square on the bottom of the table fit into the base to keep it from shifting while moving it. A design I was leary of had two bifolding sections which worked like a hard side pop up camper.(I own one of these) The problem was there was no spring assist like on the camper for raising the table into position and the sides were held in the up position by square wood frames stuck in each end. Nothing could be left in the table since it tilted when raised or lowered. I think that is one to avoid. I lost tons of neat plans and photos when my Vaio crashed. Even so I am sure you get the idea of these designs Robert. I think the riser box is one of the best I have seen, so simple but effective.


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## Clandeboye (Jan 1, 2013)

ietech said:


> Yes, I have done this. I replaced the table extensions on my Craftsman table saw with a plate designed to have the router attached to the underside of the new table extension.
> 
> The plate is made of melamine to eliminate expansion and contraction as much as possible, not to mention a really smooth surface on the melamine that has very little resistance on the stock when routing.
> 
> It still works as an extension too. I also fitted the back side of my fence with a smooth and parallel bar to serve as a fence for the router. Works great.


Hello:

I have got a Craftsman table saw, and just purchased a Craftsman combo router set with both fixed and plunge bases. I like IETech's idea of building a router support in place of the table saw extension, and have several ideas as to how to build one. Has anyone got a picture of such a project?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Bruce. Welcome to the forum.


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

For the questions of the OP.

I installed a router in my Delta 12/14, like a Unisaw, just bigger.
Perhaps a separate router table is better, but for my first set up this is working well.

This is how I attached a router fence, and other fence ideas to the Biesmeyer saw fence.
I used the brackets for the Board Buddie rollers.
I machined the brackets that slide into the BB brackets for this, but any shop, or backyard machinist can do it.


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