# Used Table Saw Purchase



## peterbata (Nov 29, 2018)

Hello all. My apologies if I am posting this in the wrong section. I am looking at purchasing a used table saw. I am hoping to get your input. I am starting off and have a very limited budget. I realize that there are many factors that go into the purchase of a used item (sight unseen) but I thought that I would run it by you folks anyway.

I cam across 2 table saws that are selling for 100.00 - 125.00

1 - Ryobi Portable Table Saw Model No: RTS21G

2 - Craftsman (Still waiting for the seller to get back to me with the model number)

I am a novice and was wondering what are some of the things that I should be looking for.

Or, is it just a roll of the dice and hope that the item holds up. Even if it is until I can afford a quality machine. I have a small project that I hope to get off the ground soon (Acoustic panels that I mentioned in an unrelated post)

Thank you so much

Peter


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Buying a cheap saw is unlikely to do you much good. I had a used Ryobe for a couple of days when I first started and immediately put it into recycler. This one is a newer model and might work out for awhile. But read on...

No way most of us will touch a Craftsman tool new or used--no parts available when it breaks. Used table saws are not really that hard to find if you're patient. Hold out for something by Bosch if you can in the portable saw category.

The table saw is the center of any shop. You can replace some of its functions with a circular saw with a clamped-on straight edge and premium blade, but it will never have the precision possible with a decent table saw.

I'd keep looking, including estate sales, online and yard sales. Several people here have found really top notch table saws at estate or garage sales where the sellers really had no idea of the value. 

My first decent table saw was a clearance item at Lowes, $300 for a Delta contractor saw, still in the box. Worked for me for several years and now in my Son in Law's garage. My personal view is that an acceptable table saw like the Bosch 4100, is worth saving up, and even a little debt. Buy in haste and regret at leisure.

Hopefully, others will chime in soon with alternatives. Some like the new DeWalt portable contractor saw, but not sure if there are many used ones out there. Be sure the saw you buy will take at least a 6 inch dado blade set. Some have arbors that are too short to accept a set, and you will very quickly need to get a set. 

Since you're relatively new to woodworking, I've attached a pdf of an article on the 17 things that accelerated my learning over the past decade or so. Hopefully it will help you avoid some of the costly lessons I learned. It's long but has pictures. Keep it around for re-reading from time to time. Next thing to get after the table saw is a really good dust mask.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I bought a similar one awhile back, don't recall the brand, but possibly they are all made in the same plant anyway. No stand, and hadn't been used for awhile. But ran fine, and was $35. I've also got a similar Harbor Freight saw I bought new in about '96-97, somewhere a bit over $50, still using it. I looked at some of the big name saws, going for around $300, and a couple, except for the color, were twins of mine. I would say for those prices, for used saws, I would shop around a bit more. Possibly you can find one someone wants to trade. Got me a scroll saw that would normally go for around $100, used, for a $35 flute. 

Your dime, you will ultimately have to make the call.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

the Ryobie I wouldn't touch w/ a 100' pole..
table issues..
miter issues...
PITA to use a sled on..
insert issues...
low power..
if the craftsman is belt driven you might be on to something...
their cheapo pulleys are usually an issue...
if it's a 1hp model it's seriously under powered...
1½ HP models are marginal power department
if it's direct drive... I'd stay away from that one too...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

You could check out reviews online to help make your choice. Search for Reviews of Ryobe RTS21G. I found what turns out to be a pretty good review of the Ryobe saw at https://electrosawhq.com/ryobi-table-saw-reviews/

At $100, looks to be OK. It is far better built than the one I tossed. If money is really an issue, I'd go for it. And, according to the review, it will take a dado stack. Looking at again, the previous owner at least put a dust catcher on it, which suggests some care was given it by the previous owner.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

the Ryobie I wouldn't touch w/ a 100' pole..
I wouldn't take it if was paid to take it gift..
fence issues
table issues..
miter issues...
PITA to use a sled on..
insert issues...
low power..
if the craftsman is belt driven you might be on to something...
their cheapo pulleys are usually an issue...
if it's a 1hp model it's seriously under powered...
1½ HP models are marginal power department
if it's direct drive... I'd stay away from that one too...


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

The thing about Craftsman is it's going out of business with Sears standing behind it. I took back a half inch ratchet about a year ago that I have had for 30 years or longer. Their tools used to be guaranteed for life now I think it's for a year. There are plenty of places that you can buy tools that are guaranteed for life. There are plenty of good saws out there without buying Craftsman.


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## peterbata (Nov 29, 2018)

@Stick486 If you posted this twice does that mean that you wouldn't touch it with a 200' pole. Just teasing!

Thank you all for your input. I really do appreciate it.

The reality is that I have that acoustic panel project that I would like to get started on. Sure, I can wait till the ultimate deal comes along but this has been dragging on for a while. Holidays and all. There is always an excuse I guess.

Or I can go out and spend close to a thousand dollars after taxes on a Bosch 4100-10. Unfortunately, that is not possible for me at the moment.

What I am going to do with the few pieces of woodworking tools that I have picked up after I am done building my panels is another matter. Which is the main reason why I do not want to spend more than I have to in order to complete the work. I have been looking at local classified ads for quite a while. And frankly, there is so little available in the way of decent quality tools. At least in the area that I live in. It's pretty much all the same ad after ad:

People unloading their old tools - Craftsman, B&D, Skilssaw, Delta, etc. For the most part they all seem to have served in some World War.

Not to mention that once the acoustic treatment is finished in my room, there is more audio gear that I will be purchasing soon after. I had even considered renting the tools that I need versus a straight out purchase. The problem with that is that the time that I can dedicate to the completion of my panels may be staggered. So, renting may not be a wise option!

I need more time to think about all this. Sorry about the long-winded post.

Peter


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If the Sears has an iron top instead of aluminum I would go with it. I bought a Craftsman like the Ryobi a few years ago. The fence was a problem. It was difficult to line up straight. I had to check every time I moved it to see if it was parallel to the blade which was a PITA. It wouldn't stay put during a cut until I glued some sandpaper to the back clamp. It was under powered but if I took my time I could get past that problem. You can't expect a saw like that to perform like a Unisaw or Powermatic 66.

My first saw was a direct drive 1 hp Sears. The fence was okay and the power was okay but it had an aluminum top and I bent it slightly which means you never get a perfectly straight cut with it. Despite that it still got the job done and may still be going with only one relay replaced in 35 years. I sold it a couple of years ago for $10. When I bought my Unisaw it served as a backup until a friend sold me an old Rockwell for $100. The Rockwell is a pretty good saw. The fence was decent but I had an aftermarket I replaced it with that was even better. The only issue I had with the Rockwell was a short distance past the blade to the back of the table which I improved with a short out feed added on. If you can find one of the old Rockwell Beaver saws in good shape I would go with it and they sold a lot of them back in the day.


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## peterbata (Nov 29, 2018)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> If the Sears has an iron top instead of aluminum I would go with it. I bought a Craftsman like the Ryobi a few years ago. The fence was a problem. It was difficult to line up straight. I had to check every time I moved it to see if it was parallel to the blade which was a PITA. It wouldn't stay put during a cut until I glued some sandpaper to the back clamp. It was under powered but if I took my time I could get past that problem. You can't expect a saw like that to perform like a Unisaw or Powermatic 66.


Thank you @Cherryville Chuck. I contacted the woman who is selling the Craftsman. Actually, it used to belong to her father. Sadly, he passed away a few weeks ago. She could not provide me with a model number at the time but she is supposed to get back to me today. I am certain that she won't be able to tell me if the top is iron or aluminum. I would have to go out to see it in person.


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## peterbata (Nov 29, 2018)

If anyone is interested, these are the corner traps that I plan on building. Basically, the table saw would be used to rip the plywood that can be seen in Steps 2 and 5. Then I would be done with the saw.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I wouldn't pay $10 for either one of those saws, even if they were in just out of the box condition. They scream when you run them, are way under powered for all but the smallest of projects, the miter slots are not the standard 3/4 X 3/8 size, a DADO blade cannot be used full width on them, not even a smaller diameter dado blade, and the fences are never accurate. Need I say more?


For a new woodworker on a tight budget, I would suggest that you look for a Delta Contractor Saw. 

Before buying, make sure it cuts, isn't too heavily rusted, and is complete, and check underneath it for any broken parts, especially the trunions (blade arbor mountings and tilt mechanism slides). The top should be cast iron. The table wings (both side wings will likely be sheet metal) and the arbor tilt pieces are also cast iron. These can break if the saw is ever thrown out of a truck or knocked over. The OEM fence could be steel or extruded aluminum. Either one is fine.

Any of the models in the 34-440 series or similar are essentially the same and they are very plentiful. (I think they incremented the model number one count for each year they were being made) They have a 1 1/2 hp induction motor on the back with a belt to the blade arbor and they come with a stand built-in so a separate stand is not needed. A lot of these saws were being made and sold 20-50 years ago and they are a very reliable saw to this day. A relatively clean one of these saws can be found complete with a usable fence and miter gauge for $100-200. For very clean and good condition I would even be willing to go a little higher in price. A lightly rusted top can be cleaned up as long as there is no deep pitting. Most of these saws have a specially designed dual voltage motor that is 1 1/2 hp when connected to 120 volt power, but will produce a full 2 hp when connected for 240 volt power. The limited power was so the contractor could take the saw to the job sit and it would run on a 120 volt 15 amp circuit, but if he was using it in his shop he could change it for 240 volt use and gain the extra 1/2 hp when connected for 240 volt power. The OEM fence on these saw isn't the best, but it will do a new user well for years if it isn't damaged, and it can be replaced later if the need arises for a better one. I'm still using the same miter gauges that come with these saws, which were standard issue with all Delta 10" saws made for well over 60 years.

These saws have the standard 3/4 X 3/8" miter slots (something that those $100 saws that you are looking at don't) so standard jigs can be purchased that will fit and work well on them and their 5/8" arbor shaft is long enough to take a DADO set and standard 10" diameter blades. Their biggest failure is that there is no really good way to control the saw dust, since the case/frame of the saw is completely open on the bottom and back. An optional (non Delta) cloth bag is available today that can be attached under the saw that will catch much, but not all of the saw dust.

I found and bought a 34-444 model of this saw for my son, cleaned it up a bit, changed the motor wiring for 240 volt, and put a new saw blade on it. The top was slightly rusty so some rubbing with a Skotch Brite pad and WD-40 was used to clean it up. I also adjusted the blade to be parallel with the miter slots and adjusted the fence to be parallel with the blade. After clean-up I waxed the exposed cast iron with several coats of Johnsons Paste Wax to minimize future rusting and make wood slide across it easily.

His saw now cuts just as accurate as my Unisaw and he has yet to bog down the 2 hp motor doing any and all of his house remodeling. The motor is an induction motor, not the universal (drill motor) type that is in those $100 saws that scream when you use them. It's relatively quiet in comparison and will likely last another 40 years.

Charley


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## peterbata (Nov 29, 2018)

@CharleyL. Very interesting thank you. Is anyone familiar with the King brand?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

peterbata said:


> @Stick486
> 
> Or I can go out and spend close to a thousand dollars after taxes on a Bosch 4100-10. Unfortunately, that is not possible for me at the moment.
> 
> ...


let us know where you are shopping so we can steer clear of that vendor...
no tax..
free shipping...
CPO is a no worries outfit as is their refurbs...
https://www.cpooutlets.com/factory-...orksite-table-saw/bshr4100-rt,default,pd.html

the edit posted as a 2nd post for some reason...


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

King is a Canadian Brand and I think being imported from the Orient. I think it is also a universal motor under powered saw. It looks like it also has a plastic cabinet, so I would tend to believe that it is also, maybe a newer version of the two in your first post, but I know nothing about King and their tools, except for some grumblings on the woodworking forums.

Do a Google search for the manual and pictures of a Delta 34-444, 34-445, 46, 47, etc.
and visually compare them to your photos. I think, even in the pictures, you will see a significant difference. 

I don't like table wings with holes in them either. Too easy for something, or even a finger to get caught in them causing pain and a miss-cut board. Sears offered "contractor saws" too, but Sears is going out of business and even years ago, parts availability for Sears branded tools was limited. There's is a lot of Delta tools out there and many are being parted out with the parts available through ebay, etc. so part wise I think the Delta is still a safer choice for a good low budget saw.

I have friends who are building authentic re-creations of Queen Ann and other styles of furniture who are still using Delta Contractor Saws, but most have upgraded to better fences on their saws. 

Charley


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

peterbata said:


> @CharleyL. Very interesting thank you. Is anyone familiar with the King brand?


......


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## peterbata (Nov 29, 2018)

@Stick486 The King looks like a toy. Yep another no-no. I'll play it safe and use a hand saw instead


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I think 'King' has been brought up before. Wasn't the consensus that they're just a marketing company selling offshore machinery?
I doubt that all their stuff is crappy...
https://www.kmstools.com/king-industrial-portable-table-saw-with-stand-20476

https://www.kmstools.com/king-industrial-10-2-5-hp-cabinet-table-saw-142108
https://www.kmstools.com/king-industrial-6-jointer-107356
https://www.kmstools.com/king-industrial-26-drum-sander-113432

I'd like to at least be able to try their stuff out.


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

@peterbata.Hi from down under Peter,please listen to the advise from from our experts here,if you can hold on till a decent ts comes along it will save you lots of grief.I can vouch for every one of the comments/replies made by our experts.I recently sold one of my rifles & will use the money to buy a decent ts,so I shall wish us both good luck in our searches. James jj777746.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

If you can get a Craftsman belt drive for a good price - grab it. The 113 series were pretty good and parts can be found. Check Craigslist.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> I'd like to at least be able to try their stuff out.


from two other forums...
pro list... 
don't cost much...

con list...
pages worth....
the biggest scream was CS and things broke..


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

King has been around for years and is sold under a slew of brand names including Delta. I have their 16" planer and worked the living snot out of it pushing several thousand feet of rough sawn fir, cedar, pine, spruce, and birch through it. It takes off 1/8" per pass even at 16" wide. Still going strong after about 20 years. I also have their 108" x 6" vertical belt sander. Also 20 years old and going strong but not used nearly as much as the planer. I just bought a 16/32 drum sander from them and it is working well. They sell some fairly serious table saws, comparable to what you would get from Grizzly (might be the same factory). Whether that is one of them I can't say. But just because it is a King brand doesn't mean it's defective. It just isn't top of the line.

As far as the CS, I did have an issue with the table on the sander. It wasn't perpendicular to the sanding belt. I called them and complained and they did hem and haw but they did make it right by sending me a new table that was 90* to the belt. The planer head wasn't parallel to the table but I adjusted that. That is my experience with King. So far at least.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Customer service is important, and complaints about it, or lack of it, would (probably) put me off.
But let's get real here; the outlet that sells their stuff should be the ones offering front line customer satisfaction. Let _them_ sort out who pays the cost of making it right. They have a lot more influence than the end user.
We've heard complaints here in the past about Busy Bee not being at all responsive to customers issues...
Craftex being their house brand https://www.busybeetools.com/


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## woodworker47 (Dec 19, 2008)

I have been using my fathers late 40s craftsman table saw for over 18 years. It has the cast iron table with cast extensions. I upgraded the motor and added a M.U.L.E. Fence system. This fence is not a Bessemer, but it works. I built my own cabinet complete with dust collection. In my opinion, if you find an “old” craftsman table saw with cast iron extensions, it will work. I would advise that you hear it running, before buying. F.Y.I. I just sold a vintage craftsman 3hp, cast iron, with mobile base, shop fox fence, three blades, and dust collection for $400. The person that bought it was unpairing from an old Delta. I was selling this saw for a friend that had to move into a nursing home.

Frank


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## Multiwood (Feb 24, 2013)

I have been using my Sears 12” direct drive table saw for over 40 years. I did replace the fence. 
It has seen a lot of use. I had a Saw stop for four years and sold it and went back to the Sears
saw.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

peterbata said:


> @Stick486 If you posted this twice does that mean that you wouldn't touch it with a 200' pole. Just teasing!
> 
> Thank you all for your input. I really do appreciate it.
> 
> ...


From the sound of it this is a one time woodworking project and after that who knows. Based on that I would get what ever is out there that cuts. If there is even the slightest chance that you will be doing more woodworking in the future then I would look until I came across the best deal. Buy in hast and repent in leisure or what ever the saying is. As for what I would look for, it would be an older 10" Craftsman from the 70's with a cast iron top and a separate 1 hp motor. They can be had any day of the week for under $200 and will out perform and out live any of the more expensive contractors saws on the market.


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## Danman1957 (Mar 14, 2009)

Peter,

I offered to give you my opinion on a used purchase. Now I will go one step further, call me at
514-349-8823
If you are serious about a used table saw, I can go with you and check it out. My surgery is on Wednesday so it must be before then or in a couple of weeks. Don't be in a rush ! if you have the cash and wait you will find a deal !
Dan


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## Oakwerks (May 9, 2013)

I used a 1 horsepower Craftsmam belt drive model 113.298032 for many years .....
I did everything I asked it to do, and was very accurate.....
People will tell you the fence is junk, but I disagree.... It works fine ....
Look to pay $100-$125 .....


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Peter; take (other) Dan up on his offer! Great guy and knowledgeable too.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Danman1957 said:


> Peter,
> 
> call me at
> 514-349-8823
> ...


do you really want your # listed and not PM'd...


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## peterbata (Nov 29, 2018)

Danman1957 said:


> Peter,
> 
> I offered to give you my opinion on a used purchase. Now I will go one step further, call me at
> 514-349-8823
> ...


Hello Dan. Thank you for offering to help. You have a lot on your plate at the moment and I would definitely not feel comfortable imposing on you. Let's talk after your surgery. I wish you good luck with that and a speedy recovery. Peter


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Confirm any TS you are looking at will tilt the blade to 45°. A used machine not well maintained may have dust built-up that prevents it from doing so.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

My first table saw was a delta contractors saw with a biesemeyer fence ,a great setup. 
I learned my lesson,as the place I used to stay bought a new delta table saw that had the factory fence , and it was absolutely garbage . If you don’t have sturdy and accurate fence system , there’s no point in bothering imo. 
But now the price goes up . All I can suggest is trying to find one used and not doing this twice


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## thomas1389 (Jan 4, 2012)

peterbata said:


> @CharleyL. Very interesting thank you. Is anyone familiar with the King brand?


Peter, for some reason I couldn't see the pic if you posted them but I have two questions. Approximately where are you in Canada? I assume you're in Quebec if Danman is close enough to help you. If you're in the Toronto region there must be everybody and his brother selling tools, including table saws. From used to small and large outlets. That price shown for a Bosch 4100 is from HD. Not a good price. loads of smaller outlets with better prices. You'll never know unless you take the time to shop around. If all you need is a one time use to cut some plywood, why not find a small cabinet shop to slice it up and forego the trouble and time if it's that urgent. It'll probably be cheaper in the long run, all things considered.


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## Danman1957 (Mar 14, 2009)

Stick,
I don't mind if people call me. That is my cell phone not home phone,

Dan


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## peterbata (Nov 29, 2018)

peterbata said:


> If anyone is interested, these are the corner traps that I plan on building. Basically, the table saw would be used to rip the plywood that can be seen in Steps 2 and 5. Then I would be done with the saw.


DIY Corner Bass Traps in 12 Steps - How I Made 8 Traps for my Control Room - Creative Edge Music


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## gdonham1 (Oct 31, 2011)

IMHO do not buy a piece of S**t. Table saws come in 4 classes:

1. Benchtop Saws. These are usually direct drive and made of aluminum and/or plastic. OK if you are going to use once or twice a year.

2. Contractor Saws. These usually have a motor hanging off the back of the saw and are belt driven. These are work horses and can be made to work very well. Very few of them are great out of the box. Usually the fence needs to be replaced with a T-Square type, the miter gauge needs to be replaced and the saw needs to have a thin kerf blade because of the horse power limitations of the drive motor.

3. Cabinet Saws. The Powermatic 66, Delta Uni-Saw and Grizzly are in this category. They are usually at least 3 HP or more and are the best in breed. 

4. Hybrid. This is a cross between the contractor and cabinet saw. These can be good saws but why buy a compromise when you should just get a contractor or a cabinet saw. The inbetweeners like the hybrid are always a compromise between quality and price. 

All considered you need to figure out what the saw will be used for. If you are going to make a few cuts then go to Harbor Freight and get a Chicago Electric. If you think you will take up woodworking as a hobby then get a contractor class saw. If you think you are serious about woodworking as a hobby or as a side business then get the Cabinet Saw.

What ever saw you get, get the best saw in its class. You will be sorry if you buy by price alone. Check out reviews and get the best tool that you can afford. If you budget is $100-150 then you will get a POS. If you can go a little bit more you will find something good on craigslist or searching the internet. There are some industrial used tool dealers that you can get good prices on for better quality saws.

Quit worrying about price and worry more about quality. You always get what you pay for. If you get a bad tool you will always be sorry you bought it. Buy a quality tool and you will never be sorry in the long run if you want to sell it you can usually get back just about what you bought it for on the used market. 

I used a Sears Craftsman 80s vintage contractor saw for years. I now have a Powermatic 66. The SawStop is probably the safest saw you can get right now.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

gdonham1 said:


> IMHO do not buy a piece of S**t. Table saws come in 4 classes:
> 
> 1. Benchtop Saws. These are usually direct drive and made of aluminum and/or plastic. OK if you are going to use once or twice a year.
> 
> ...


1... you clearly haven't direct experience w/ the Bosch 4100 

2... no need for a T fence if you have a better saw and not a impoeted knock off...

3... and the Unisaw.. even the 40's vintage...

4.. no... they're perfect for many hobbyist...

the budget... . not if you know saws and and there are saws to be had for less because an owner is sick of there all over the want of a quality tune up...
SawStop... and the most expensive in operating cost - tangible and intangible costs...
have you taken the time to read the SawStop threads here???


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## peterbata (Nov 29, 2018)

thomas1389 said:


> Peter, for some reason I couldn't see the pic if you posted them but I have two questions. Approximately where are you in Canada? I assume you're in Quebec if Danman is close enough to help you. If you're in the Toronto region there must be everybody and his brother selling tools, including table saws. From used to small and large outlets. That price shown for a Bosch 4100 is from HD. Not a good price. loads of smaller outlets with better prices. You'll never know unless you take the time to shop around. If all you need is a one time use to cut some plywood, why not find a small cabinet shop to slice it up and forego the trouble and time if it's that urgent. It'll probably be cheaper in the long run, all things considered.


Thank you for chiming in @thomas1389 Yes, I am located in Quebec. By the way Dan has been extremely helpful. Thanks for the recommendation anyway. Wise choice.


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## peterbata (Nov 29, 2018)

rwl7532 said:


> Confirm any TS you are looking at will tilt the blade to 45°. A used machine not well maintained may have dust built-up that prevents it from doing so.


Will keep that in mind. Thank you.


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## peterbata (Nov 29, 2018)

DaninVan said:


> Peter; take (other) Dan up on his offer! Great guy and knowledgeable too.


Done! Thank you @DaninVan


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## peterbata (Nov 29, 2018)

Stick486 said:


> let us know where you are shopping so we can steer clear of that vendor...
> no tax..
> free shipping...
> CPO is a no worries outfit as is their refurbs...
> ...


As indicated in my profile I DO live in Canada. So, that $339.00USD + shipping from CPO is going to end up ringing in at close to a thousand dollars. And, this for a refurb. That's right around the $799.00CDN plus tax that I would be paying for a brand new machine (with warranty) from Home Depot. Or, close to it!

Am I missing something? I do appreciate the link and the fact that everyone here is really going out of their way to help me out.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

peterbata said:


> I would be paying for a brand new machine (with warranty) from Home Depot.


refurbs are generally better than new and they come w/ new tool warranty..


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Last I checked CPO still doesn't ship to Canada so if you buy something from them it will have to be shipped to a US address and you go over the line and pick it up.


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## pbesong (Oct 29, 2018)

i was lucky enough to get an old Craftsman (not belt driven) for free. i posted a message on our Freecyle.org email list saying I was looking for a table saw (shot in the dark) and i actually ended up with 2. one was a really cheap old Sears saw (forget the name) and the other was this Craftsman. it was really beat and had no stand, but i cleaned it up and put a new Delta fence on it, a safety switch, and it's a pretty decent saw now. only bad thing is the wheel that makes the blade go up and down broke and won't turn it anymore, but I just put a vice grip plier on it to turn it and it works fine. I'd like to replace the wheel at some point if i can. anyway i repainted it, waxed it, and made a stand out of wood. it's been working great. someday i'll buy a new one but this will get me by till then. 

If you have freecycle in your area (check freecycle.org) it might be worth a try. Everything on freecycle is free and you can ask for things you need. can also watch Craigslist and if you have a ReStore (for Habitat for Humanity) where ppl donate old building supplies and tools, it would be worth checking too. I got a nice Delta scroll saw there cheap.


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## Steve Pack (Jan 1, 2014)

I would not go look at crapman saw. You will not be able to get parts, and the build quality is sorely lacking. A job site saw is that, Check the fence it should lock down and parallel to blade. If it does run parallel your cuts will be crooked. Save your money and buy a better grade later.


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

I got an old Delta 8" belt drive with cast iron table 1 HP. that someone threw away. it's built very well, and I never needed more than the 1HP, even on thick oak. and it's very quiet, unlike the direct drive junk with brush motors!.. and btw, the cast iron table is absolutely flat, and the weight helps with some attachments, like a dado, it keeps it steady!..


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Pretty good discussion. Lots of alternatives.


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## qulevrius (Mar 18, 2019)

With a bit of searching and luck, you can get a decent used contractor saw for a good price. I have a Delta that I bought for $150, barely used. It isn’t perfect, the fence needed adjustments, the miter gauge is junk, the stock throat plate has a lot of play and the top is aluminum, but for the price it does exactly what I expect it to do. Put in a thin kerf Diablo 40T ATB blade, added UHMW panels to the fence, waxed the table and the T-tracks, now it works like it should. All is left is to make a set of inserts and it’ll be a lot of saw for what I paid for it.


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## pbesong (Oct 29, 2018)

I would not go for one of those small saws. I picked up an older Craftsman direct drive 3HP 10" table saw (model 113) for free. Had to grease up the threads for the blade adjustments and it had a broken off blade height adjustment wheel, but I just clamped on a vise grip wrench to turn it. I got it cleaned up and actually bought a Delta fence for it ($200?) and installed it to get rid of the crappy snap on fence that came with it. It's actually a pretty good saw and I've been using it for about 7 years now. I made a stand for it and put a vacuum attachment on it (which I never seem to use). I built a few nice pieces of furniture using it and I just used it yesterday to rip a new straight edge on about 50 pallet boards. still runs strong after all these years. Just saying not to count the older Craftsman saws out. Just don't get the small ones. Get at least 3HP. They were made better back in the 70s. I plan on keeping it till I can afford to get a new Grizzly Hybrid. Photo of my saw is above in the thread.


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