# Shallow angle chamfer or better way



## carolinchicago (Mar 31, 2010)

Hi, all.

I want to taper the top and bottom edges of my weaving shuttles at about a 30 degree angle, but shallow on the flat edge of the piece.

The 30 degree bits I have seen are 30 degrees from the vertical shank. The result I want is about 60 degrees from the vertical along each flat side.

The stock is 1 x 1/4. Holding it up on edge is not stable. Is this a job for a fence or a pusher? Does a "60 degree" (wide) bit exist?


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Magnate

look at the 120 degree bits on this page. #723 or #726
Buy a few different bits, the prices are great, but shipping can be a little pricey if you just buy a single bit.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

carolinchicago said:


> Hi, all.
> 
> I want to taper the top and bottom edges of my weaving shuttles at about a 30 degree angle, but shallow on the flat edge of the piece.
> 
> ...


Hi - If the exact angle isn't terribly important you may be able to get what you want with a 15* raised panel bit. You can get one of those off eBay from Super Carbide Tools for about $20 with shipping.


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## gal turner (Mar 3, 2010)

I am not a pro in this arena, but such a small piece across a router table seems very scary to me. Can you use a plane with it clamped in a bench? Or devise a way to hold and use a sander unit. ?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

There are specialty clamps for this sort of thing, such as this one

Small Piece Holder - Rockler Woodworking Tools

but I use a wooden screw clamp, as I use it for other things too. Call me cheap. 

Wooden Handscrew Clamps, While Supplies Last! - Rockler Woodworking Tools


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

BigJimAK said:


> There are specialty clamps for this sort of thing, such as this one
> 
> Small Piece Holder - Rockler Woodworking Tools
> 
> ...


Even using that expensive holder without a starting pin is, in my usual humble opinion asking for trouble, wouldn't you agree Jim?

I'm pretty certain that I would make the required angles, and in fact any angle on such pieces with the disc sander. Just because we all love routers, we mustn't become one eyed about them, we should choose the BEST way to complete a particular operation.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

carolinchicago said:


> Hi, all.
> 
> I want to taper the top and bottom edges of my weaving shuttles at about a 30 degree angle, but shallow on the flat edge of the piece.
> 
> ...


Carol:

How big are your shuttles? A "normal" shuttle to me is about 10" long by 2" square with very long slow points, each end. Best way to handle that is with a sanding disk or belt sander. Don't have to be accurate, just thorough. You don't want any edges, do you?

I'm afraid that a router bit wouldn't be big enough to accomplish what you want. The only thing the router bit could do is to round off the four edges.

The only other thing I can suggest is that you make a four-sided pattern drop in your workpiece, run over it (each side) with a flat bottomed bit and then round the edges, then you get to hand sand until your fingerprints are worn off. Are these hardwood for power looms or softwood for hand looms?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> There are specialty clamps for this sort of thing, such as this one
> 
> Small Piece Holder - Rockler Woodworking Tools


Hi Jim:

That hand clamp desperately needs a starting pin. Even with the handles, the bit will still grab it and send you on a jerk. OakPark sells them $3 or something like that.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

harrysin said:


> Even using that expensive holder without a starting pin is, in my usual humble opinion asking for trouble, wouldn't you agree Jim?
> 
> I'm pretty certain that I would make the required angles, and in fact any angle on such pieces with the disc sander. Just because we all love routers, we mustn't become one eyed about them, we should choose the BEST way to complete a particular operation.


You're correct, Master Routologist Harry.. I stand properly corrected. A guide pin would be required and with material that narrow, likely infeasible.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

"Even using that expensive holder without a starting pin is, in my usual humble opinion asking for trouble, wouldn't you agree Jim?

I'm pretty certain that I would make the required angles, and in fact any angle on such pieces with the disc sander. Just because we all love routers, we mustn't become one eyed about them, we should choose the BEST way to complete a particular operation."
Attached Thumbnails
Shallow angle chamfer or better way-ring-box5.jpg 

that was my thought originally, before i heard all the high tech answers. the material is only 1/4 inch thick. why would anyone try to lose a finger on a router?

but i admit, im no high tech person. but in the original post when i saw the workpiece was only 1"x1/4" , i thought this to be a dangerous proposition. 

but heck, im often told to be quiet!


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## carolinchicago (Mar 31, 2010)

Thanks for all the suggestions. This is soft wood (stain grade pine lattice) and they are "stick shuttles," used for simple hand weaving and tapestry. I'm looking at alternatives to hand carving and hand sanding, however that method does work.

I agree, teeny pieces on a full sized router has a questionable risk/benefit ratio. So far I was just using the Dremel. The Porter-Cable has arrived, but i have not yet set it up.

Let's see what hand sanding a clamped stick with a sanding block gets me.


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## carolinchicago (Mar 31, 2010)

*photos of small softwood shuttles*

Sorry it took so long to reply; my dad had distracting medical events. He's stable now.

They are small softwood (pine) stick shuttles. Starting material is 1/4 x 1-5/16 pine lattice.

Photo here:
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/general-routing/34743d1271078540-taking-plunge-shuttles.jpg



allthunbs said:


> Carol:
> 
> How big are your shuttles? A "normal" shuttle to me is about 10" long by 2" square with very long slow points, each end. Best way to handle that is with a sanding disk or belt sander. Don't have to be accurate, just thorough. You don't want any edges, do you?
> 
> ...


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

carolinchicago said:


> Thanks for all the suggestions. This is soft wood (stain grade pine lattice) and they are "stick shuttles," used for simple hand weaving and tapestry. I'm looking at alternatives to hand carving and hand sanding, however that method does work.
> 
> I agree, teeny pieces on a full sized router has a questionable risk/benefit ratio. So far I was just using the Dremel. The Porter-Cable has arrived, but i have not yet set it up.
> 
> Let's see what hand sanding a clamped stick with a sanding block gets me.


You can create a template and router to help you cut the horizontal profile. Create a template (100 % pattern), nail (#5 flat head screw?) it to the workpiece and using a bearing on a 1/4" (3/8", 1/2") flush trim bit, (top or bottom bearing, depending on where you put the template) to create your "raw" shape. Slice off "blanks" on the table saw. Then, try a draw knife and spoke shave. Draw knife will pull the profile down quickly and the spoke shave will help you refine the profile.


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