# Photos of router tables



## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Bobj3:

I know you have a lot of router tables and I am starting to build one. Is there some place where you have photos of your router tables on this forum? I looked around but couldn't find them.

Because I probably will get a Katie jig, I want a table that doesn't have an uneven router plate. Because you have the Katie Jig, I assume you have router tables it works well on.

I remember you like an open table so the motor doesn't get too hot. I am a little hung up on building a Norm like table despite your wise advise.

I am wondering the best way to make a Norm type table mobile. Those Delta mobile bases where you put wood in as the stretchers aren't too bad are they?

Any thoughts from anyone welcome.

Steve Bolton


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi SB,

For Norm's type of table, you might consider locking casters. Using a 2" or 2 1/2" caster shoud be fine. You don't want to go larger for this will impact on the height for your table top. Of course, you can make these "recessed" or hidden.

Have you looked thru Bj's gallery? Not too long ago I believe he got a new table but, can't seem to find the thread. 
http://www.routerforums.com/gallery.php?userid=6787&pp=10&showthumbs=1

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/6521-cmt-industrio-router-table-system-orange-cabinet.html?highlight=router+table


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I just mounted wheels to the bottom of the cabinet. The front 2 swivel and lock.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi SB

Looks like got you fixed up on some router tables..

I like Norms table, but I don't like the motor closed in,,, if the vac systems is working right 90 % of the chips will be sucked up at the fence..

If I was to build a copy of Norms router table I would put in two drawers on the bottom but no side drawers or doors the drawers on the bottom would hold the bits and extra parts for the router..

Plus the drawers that could be pulled out from the back and the front side of the router table...many times you need to use the back side of the router table....for big / wide stock....


I do like to use the Katie/MLCS jigs and the plate must be FLAT without a dome in the center....all my router table tops are FLAT....or I should say the router insert plates are all flat...if it's not the dovetail will be off just a little bit and it will not fit without a hammer driving it in place...not to say anything about spliting the dovetail/socket... (pitch is a big deal when it comes to dovetails)

I know many will say the router should be enclosed, but because it's router it will always put chips on the floor  just the nature of the beast...heat will killl most routers and I do want to keep on using the ones I have...so I can put up the chips..

" stretchers aren't too bad are they? " they are a bit over kill for the router tables,,,just need to 4 casters, one pair that will lock and the other can run and turn free,,,a simple 2 x 4 frame inside the cabinet will work just fine to screw them to...in that way you can keep the cabinet low to the floor about 1 1/4" off the floor...works well just need to get your toe on the wheel lock, I like them on the front side of the cabinet..so I can get to them easy with my shoe bottom....



==================


S Bolton said:


> Bobj3:
> 
> I know you have a lot of router tables and I am starting to build one. Is there some place where you have photos of your router tables on this forum? I looked around but couldn't find them.
> 
> ...


----------



## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

With the 13 inch footprint of the Katie jig, I am temped to make a jig out of baltic birch and have it dedicated to the Katie (which I don't even own). Actually make two of them. Bob, what is the small size I am wondering I would be by with if the Katie is 13 inches wide.

sb


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Steve

You lost me on that one,,, 

You want a make a Katie jig out of plywood ?

==========


----------



## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

No, I am thinking I will buy the Katie jig. Probably from Sommerfeld, when he gets them in from China. I don't like that, but what are you going to do.

No, I would make two small router tables with no router plate. Probably would use 3/4 inch baltic birch for the top. Then I think I would have a nice level top. Now the question: With the footprint of the Katie jig being 13 inches, what would be the ideal size for a small router table top (made out of baltic birch)?

I can't make thinks like a katie jig. 

SB


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Steve

Ok, now I got you 

I would say 24" x 24" with the plate off center and to the front just a bit...

============


----------



## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

But remember I don't want a router plate. And I want to make two, so I don't have to change bits. I assume 3/4 inch baltic birch would be very good. I just went to Pat Warner's website and his router table top has no insert and is made from 5/8 inch MDF.

If I use 3/4 inch baltice I assume the router will extend out far enough. Although that probably would depend on the router.

sb


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi SB

I'm a real believer in base plate,,,,most are 1/4" to 3/8" thick .. the bits for the Katie jig are abit longer than norm but they still must stick up in the air about 1 1/2" high from the table top and that's hard to do without a plate...
The bearing on the bit must be up from the table top by about 1/2" ...

It's no big deal to put in two base plates and have two routers setup,,,I use two tables to do the same thing...back to back so to speak..

=========


----------



## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Probably right. How do you level your baseplates?

sb


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI SB

Most come with a device to do that with, in the corners..I realy like the HF base plates for the price and the rings...


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94331

=============


----------



## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Wow. I am placing an order tomorrow. Good tip.

sb


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Steve, you are better off mounting to a plate. If cost is an issue HF sells a clone of the Rousseau plate which is flat for $20. I have one of these and it works well. You can buy a "Norm style" table for less than you can build it at: http://rt1000.com/

Joe is a member and built this table before Norm.


----------



## pmspirito (Sep 19, 2004)

*Photos of my router table*

Congratulations on wanting to build your own router table. Here is a link to an article on my web site about the router table I "designed" and built. I hope you see and idea or two you will want to incorporate in your table.  

http://www.peterspirito.com/routertable.htm


----------



## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

I like your table. I am hoping to steal ideas from a number of tables and then combine them, and then hopefully the New Yankee People will have me on as Norm's assistant and I can quit my day job here.

Steve Bolton


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

S Bolton said:


> I like your table. I am hoping to steal ideas from a number of tables and then combine them, and then hopefully the New Yankee People will have me on as Norm's assistant and I can quit my day job here.


Hey Steve, then you'll have to use some ideas from mine: 2' x 4' x 3' high, on 4x210 lb casters, 4" high locks aligned under the legs to isolate the casters, 1" laminate covered MDF, 2 Oak Park baseplates mounted in the surface, one at each end. The routers are completely open but are controlled by safety switches mounted in front of the guide pins on each router. The dovetail attachment is semi-permanently mounted on top of one of the inserts but can easily be moved to another bench. I'm still working on bit and small parts storage.

Just remember all of us when Norm comes a callin'!


----------

