# How does one nominally change or adjust bit in table?



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

I’m wondering if I may be making a mistake by using my Craftsman 2hp 315.275000 router with my new MLCS router table. There are major problems with the height adjustment on this router and I will most likely have to pull the router and plate out of the table each time I make an adjustment or change bits.

Is this how it’s normally done? I don’t have the router mounted yet so I don’t know how hard this task is going to be. There is no way I can get down on my hands and knees to do anything like this under the table.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Many fixed base routers have an adjustment mechanism built in that you can access if it is mounted in a table.

For example, my Ryobi router (the least expensive one at Home Depot) has a fairly easy way to adjust it while mounted in a table.

To adjust it, you reach under the table and loosen the clamp. then you crank the knob with a long handled t-wrench to set the height. then you reach under again and close the clamp again. You can see the adjustment mechanism on the left below. There is a hole in the plate that lets you reach the adjuster with a wrench.

I would be surprised if the Craftsman didn't have something similar. This Ryobi one was only $59.

Even so, I didn't want to deal with reaching under the table all the time, and I didn't want to spend the money for a commercially available lift, so I made my own lift. It was not very hard to do, and I am a novice. Now I don't need to reach under the table at all.


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Thanks Chris, I just hate to buy another router since I have 5 of them. Only two are ½” and none of them have an easy way of adjustment.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

then maybe something like this might be in order ...

http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/33666-diy-router-table.html

just a thought ...


----------



## BigRad1 (Mar 15, 2012)

Added a router lift to my table years ago. Fabulous tool. Micro adjust from above.


----------



## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

I understand your reluctance to buy another router. The newer routers often include a mechanism to raise/lower the cut (my Triton uses a tool thru an additional hole in the plate to dial the height). Many add a lift, but that can be pricey too. The main reason I bought the newest router was to make height setting easier, more precise.

Some here have built a lift. Our home projects sometimes approach purchase price.


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Chris Curl said:


> then maybe something like this might be in order ...
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/33666-diy-router-table.html
> 
> just a thought ...


Thanks Chris, I was planning on doing just that but the router has the switch in the handle. I guess I could remove the base from the handle and have the handle dangling below. 

I can’t remember how long I’ve had this Craftsman router, but it’s only been used 4 or 5 times because pf the adjust problems and I’m just too stubborn to get rid of it just yet


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Big Steve said:


> I understand your reluctance to buy another router. The newer routers often include a mechanism to raise/lower the cut (my Triton uses a tool thru an additional hole in the plate to dial the height). Many add a lift, but that can be pricey too. The main reason I bought the newest router was to make height setting easier, more precise.
> 
> Some here have built a lift. Our home projects sometimes approach purchase price.


Thanks Steve, I saw a router table on YouTube with a router adjustment like you mention and it was great, I just have to wait awhile before buying another router because the wife will kill me. I just spent a $1000 on tools and now every time a package arrives, she’s right on it asking what’s this. :wacko::laugh:


----------



## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Does Your table top move up. or do You have to reach through into the router? Can You lift up the router and plate? If You can, it will help You to set measurements by lifting the router and plate out of the table. You now can move the router easier, and measure the router by laying the project on the plate, and moving the the router to the desired measurment. Set the router back in place on the table, and making Your cut! I would say that if You can not, then a new router with the adjustment built in mat be in order! Hope this helps.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Ok, time for a reality check. The reason mounting plates were invented was so you could easily pop the router out of your table to make adjustments and bit changes. Mounting plates work great for this. Magazines tell you the "Ultimate" router table has an expensive lift, T tracks, micro adjusters and precision "unobtainium" fence.
Bob and Rick teach us to "Keep it simple." If you need to micro adjust your woods thickness by a thousandth of an inch just breath on it. Router lifts do not improve accuracy; If you want to spend a lot of time cranking a handle a lift is the perfect item. I prefer spending less time on set ups and my money on router bits.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Big Steve said:


> I understand your reluctance to buy another router. The newer routers often include a mechanism to raise/lower the cut (my Triton uses a tool thru an additional hole in the plate to dial the height). Many add a lift, but that can be pricey too. The main reason I bought the newest router was to make height setting easier, more precise.
> 
> Some here have built a lift. Our home projects sometimes approach purchase price.


But Steve, you have a router specifically designed for table use and so far as I'm aware, it has no equal! Having said this, it's only fair to mention that I don't think much of it for hand held use.


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

dutchman 46 said:


> Does Your table top move up. or do You have to reach through into the router? Can You lift up the router and plate? If You can, it will help You to set measurements by lifting the router and plate out of the table. You now can move the router easier, and measure the router by laying the project on the plate, and moving the the router to the desired measurment. Set the router back in place on the table, and making Your cut! I would say that if You can not, then a new router with the adjustment built in mat be in order! Hope this helps.


Hi john
I have this big plastic ring around the router that is supposed to change the bit height or depth or whatever it’s called, but it doesn’t always work. Sometimes it jambs up and other times it just drops damaging the piece I’m working on so if I can eliminate the ring screw adjustment I will be a lot better off. The motor and everything else is great with plenty of power.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Mike said:


> Ok, time for a reality check. The reason mounting plates were invented was so you could easily pop the router out of your table to make adjustments and bit changes. Mounting plates work great for this. Magazines tell you the "Ultimate" router table has an expensive lift, T tracks, micro adjusters and precision "unobtainium" fence.
> Bob and Rick teach us to "Keep it simple." If you need to micro adjust your woods thickness by a thousandth of an inch just breath on it. Router lifts do not improve accuracy; If you want to spend a lot of time cranking a handle a lift is the perfect item. I prefer spending less time on set ups and my money on router bits.


Yep, that pretty much says it. I've got a homemade table, and all I have to do is pop my mounting plate (and router) out and can make any adjustments I want, or change the bit, then put it back in; or put in a completely different mounting plate and router with a different bit. I wouldn't have it any other way.


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Well I’m just going to have to buy a new router or make a lift. I screwed the base all the way down to raise the collet and I can’t even get a wrench on to change the bit. I am not going to remove the router from the insert plate every time I want to change bits.:fie:


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Johnny

It comes down to using the right tool for the job, the router you have and are using is not made to use in the router table, the ring type will jam up all the time ,the router dust and chips will fall into the ring..  The do have a router that works well in the router table and it comes with a lift built in .. just for the router table..you can get it in a 2HP or a 2 1/2HP model but I do suggest getting a offset wrench also for the router ,that will make it easy to change out the bits from the top side of the router table..

Combo kits are the best deal..going..
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

The wrench 15/16"/24mm, for Bosch/Triton 2-1/4 HP/Makita Routers
#9432.. Will work on the Craftsman routers as well .
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop.../router_table_2.html#offset_bit_wrench_anchor

===


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Johnny
> 
> It comes down to using the right tool for the job, the router you have and are using is not made to use in the router table, the ring type will jam up all the time ,the router dust and chips will fall into the ring..  The do have a router that works well in the router table and it comes with a lift built in .. just for the router table..you can get it in a 2HP or a 2 1/2HP model but I do suggest getting a offset wrench also for the router ,that will make it easy to change out the bits from the top side of the router table.........
> ===


Thanks Bob, I had to go to Home Depot today for work and while I was there I took a look at their routers and they did not have anything that I could see with the built-in lift. Chris Curl mentioned a Ryobi for $59 at HD in post #2 but I didn’t see it when I was there.

I found one on line that was over $200, but I’m just not ready to spend that much. What should I search for that would limit my search to the built-in lift?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Most of the routers that have the lift built in will be 180.oo bucks or more all but the Craftsman .




==



JohnnyB60 said:


> Thanks Bob, I had to go to Home Depot today for work and while I was there I took a look at their routers and they did not have anything that I could see with the built-in lift. Chris Curl mentioned a Ryobi for $59 at HD in post #2 but I didn’t see it when I was there.
> 
> I found one on line that was over $200, but I’m just not ready to spend that much. What should I search for that would limit my search to the built-in lift?


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

*What Is This?*

I was just looking at my Porter Cable Router and there is a hex thing on the bottom. Is that for a table lift?










Maybe I don’t need to buy a new router.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Yes many of the newer PC's come with the lift 

http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-75301-Height-Adjuster/dp/B0002ZFN50/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b

Technical Details

For use with 891 and 892 fixed base routers
Designed for use when router is inverted in a router table
Enables user to release the motor clamp, adjust bit height and secure the motor clamp from above the table....

===



JohnnyB60 said:


> I was just looking at my Porter Cable Router and there is a hex thing on the bottom. Is that for a table lift?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Yes many of the newer PC's come with the lift
> 
> ===


Thanks Bob, I'm really happy now. i just need to figure out how to work it and what I need to use it. 

So I guess I just drill an extra hole for the tool in the insert.


----------



## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

JohnnyB60 said:


> I found one on line that was over $200, but I’m just not ready to spend that much. What should I search for that would limit my search to the built-in lift?


Johnny, I found one with the above-the-table depth adjustments on HD site, and its a 1 3/4 Milwaukee, for $149. And you're looking for "above-the-table depth adjustments" in the description of the routers.


----------



## CW1 (Mar 20, 2012)

JohnnyB60 said:


> I was just looking at my Porter Cable Router and there is a hex thing on the bottom. Is that for a table lift?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I have the same router. One hex unlocks it, the other adjust height.


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

CW1 said:


> I have the same router. One hex unlocks it, the other adjust height.



Thanks CW

I’ve been thinking about buying the Porter-Cable 75301 Height Adjuster that Bob suggested and I’m trying to figure out how it works exactly. Amazon.com: Porter-Cable 75301 Height Adjuster: Home Improvement

It appears that I may need a pretty large hole in the insert to use and it says it also releases the motor clamp. Does that mean I need two holes? 


Update:
I was just looking at it again and it does not have my PC 890 router listed as one that it fits so I guess i don't buy it.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Thanks CW
> 
> I’ve been thinking about buying the Porter-Cable 75301 Height Adjuster that Bob suggested and I’m trying to figure out how it works exactly. Amazon.com: Porter-Cable 75301 Height Adjuster: Home Improvement
> 
> It appears that I may need a pretty large hole in the insert to use and it says it also releases the motor clamp. Does that mean I need two holes?


Hi Johnny - Probably does need two holes. I'm not sure which hex does what on your picture, I'm guessing the one on the left changes the height and the one on the right locks/unlocks it. 
That link just looks like a $30 socket to me. What size are hex on the router? 1/4" drive socket, extension and ratchet should get you there. I've got a similar one for my Freud table mount and usually the fence is to close to use it with that height change dial on it. I just use a socket and speed handle.


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

jschaben said:


> Hi Johnny - Probably does need two holes. I'm not sure which hex does what on your picture, I'm guessing the one on the left changes the height and the one on the right locks/unlocks it.
> That link just looks like a $30 socket to me. What size are hex on the router? 1/4" drive socket, extension and ratchet should get you there. I've got a similar one for my Freud table mount and usually the fence is to close to use it with that height change dial on it. I just use a socket and speed handle.


Thanks John, I’m not sure what size it is, but my 3/16” nut driver works, so I guess I’ll just use it and save my money.


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

*Do I have a problem with the insert plate?*

I know this is probably stupid, but how critical is the alignment for the router mounting? 

I know that the handles have to at least fit in the hole, but I’m not sure if I like rotating the router because of the ledge around the insert. it looks like the motor clamp will hit the side.

I’m not sure that I like being so close to the pin holes in plastic. I’m afraid that it might crack.










Update:
Ok I jumped the gun.  I was playing around with the base and the clamp is far enough down that it doesn't even come close to hitting the table so I'm going to just rotate it a little. I don't like it , but what can you do. :sarcastic:


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Johnny

Just turn the clear plastic plate about 1" and drill 3 new holes, and one for the crank, for the crank ,pick up some 1/4" x 12" key stock and bend it into a Z for the crank, pop on a cheap socket on it and you have a winder, you can make a wooden knob for it easy,put in 2 snap ring groves to hold the wooden knob in place and to let it turn easy..

You can get the key stock and the snap rings from Ace Hardware and a cheap socket set also if you don't have one in the tool box..



===



JohnnyB60 said:


> I know this is probably stupid, but how critical is the alignment for the router mounting?
> 
> I know that the handles have to at least fit in the hole, but I’m not sure if I like rotating the router because of the ledge around the insert. it looks like the motor clamp will hit the side.
> 
> I’m not sure that I like being so close to the pin holes in plastic. I’m afraid that it might crack.


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Johnny
> 
> Just turn the clear plastic plate about 1" and drill 3 new holes, and one for the crank, for the crank ,pick up some 1/4" x 12" key stock and bend it into a Z for the crank, pop on a cheap socket on it and you have a winder, you can make a wooden knob for it easy,put in 2 snap ring groves to hold the wooden knob in place and to let it turn easy..
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob! :happy:


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Why A Router Lift - YouTube

=


----------



## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

JohnnyB60 said:


> I was just looking at my Porter Cable Router and there is a hex thing on the bottom. Is that for a table lift?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


No you do not need to buy a new router!!! That is the 890 series PC router which provides for height adjustment, lock/unlocking and bit change above the table. I have the PC 892 router in my table and couldn't ask for a better router for the table in my opinion. You can buy a special tool for adjusting the height and lock/unlocking the router above the table while attached to the table insert plate. There are also plates made especially for the PC 890 series routers that have the holes drilled to use the tool. To change bits above the table it is advisable to buy a special off-set wrench made just for that purpose.


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> No you do not need to buy a new router!!! That is the 890 series PC router which provides for height adjustment, lock/unlocking and bit change above the table. I have the PC 892 router in my table and couldn't ask for a better router for the table in my opinion. You can buy a special tool for adjusting the height and lock/unlocking the router above the table while attached to the table insert plate. There are also plates made especially for the PC 890 series routers that have the holes drilled to use the tool. To change bits above the table it is advisable to buy a special off-set wrench made just for that purpose.


Thanks Ken, I just finished drilling the holes for the router although I’m not really happy with it. I rotated the router a little to get away from the pin hole which I don’t know what they are for anyway. (I may have to start another thread to learn how to use them)

Anyway I had to buy new screws so that I could use a tapered counter sink. I tried to make flat counter sink holes using a brad point drill bit but I didn’t like how it was cutting, so I quit and changed to a regular drill bit for the counter sink.

It seems to be ok, but I’m not sure and I hope I didn’t ruin the insert. Also I’m not so thrilled with only 3 holes to hold the router base, but I haven’t heard anybody else complaining so I guess it’s alright.

So my next project is to build a quick and easy stand so I can try it out. I tried sitting the table over a trash can with the router hanging inside but it was too wobbly. Maybe I need a larger metal can instead of plastic. :laugh:


----------



## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Thanks Ken, I just finished drilling the holes for the router although I’m not really happy with it. I rotated the router a little to get away from the pin hole which I don’t know what they are for anyway. (I may have to start another thread to learn how to use them)
> 
> Anyway I had to buy new screws so that I could use a tapered counter sink. I tried to make flat counter sink holes using a brad point drill bit but I didn’t like how it was cutting, so I quit and changed to a regular drill bit for the counter sink.
> 
> ...


The three screws will hold it just fine, but you might want to check them every so often for tightness.

I like your using the nut driver for the adjustment too. If my PC 895 kit hadn't come with the adjustment tool I would probably gone that route myself. The PC tool costs around $25.00 and for a piece of plastic. Maybe they think because the one tool serves two functions it should sell for four times what it is worth. 

The offset wrench you need to change bits above the table sells for around $15.00 depending where you buy it. Woodpeckers insert plates drilled specifically for the PC 890 series come with one included in the package.

As far as the starter pin usage you could try searching You Tube for "Router Starter Pin" to see how it is used. I have never tried it myself so I am no help to you there.

There are a zillion plans online and no doubt in this forum for a simple but effective router table to use on your workbench. The other option is to buy one of many that cost next to nothing for use on the work bench or a simple stand.


----------



## CW1 (Mar 20, 2012)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Thanks CW
> 
> I’ve been thinking about buying the Porter-Cable 75301 Height Adjuster that Bob suggested and I’m trying to figure out how it works exactly.
> It appears that I may need a pretty large hole in the insert to use and it says it also releases the motor clamp. Does that mean I need two holes?
> ...


The holes are not that big. Yes, you need two holes. The plastic thing you see on the end of the adjuster slides up the shaft and sits on top of your table. It is graduated to show how far you are adjusting it. When I bought my router, it came with a template for drilling those holes. Porter Cable should be able to supply that for you. It says that it fits 891 and 892. All the 890 series are the same. The different numbers just indicate what accessories come with it. So yes, it will work.


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

CW1 said:


> The holes are not that big. Yes, you need two holes. The plastic thing you see on the end of the adjuster slides up the shaft and sits on top of your table. It is graduated to show how far you are adjusting it. When I bought my router, it came with a template for drilling those holes. Porter Cable should be able to supply that for you. It says that it fits 891 and 892. All the 890 series are the same. The different numbers just indicate what accessories come with it. So yes, it will work.


Thanks CW,
I have everything in place and gave the adjustment screw a try using the nut driver and the clamp release is a bit hard to turn and I will probably just reach under to pull the leaver. 










I am happy to see how high the collet comes up for Router Bit removal from Table.


----------



## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Thanks CW,
> I have everything in place and gave the adjustment screw a try using the nut driver and the clamp release is a bit hard to turn and I will probably just reach under to pull the leaver.
> 
> 
> ...


If the lock/unlock mechanism is hard to release you may have something in a bind. Do you think you possibly drilled the hole off enough to cause the tool to be at an angle that would cause your problem? Both of my PC 892 routers release with a minimum of effort, in and out of the table. That was a major concern at first but I finally accepted the fact that once the lock was in place it was next to impossible to move the motor.

You need to get rid of that knuckle buster and get the proper size wrench too.


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> If the lock/unlock mechanism is hard to release you may have something in a bind. Do you think you possibly drilled the hole off enough to cause the tool to be at an angle that would cause your problem? Both of my PC 892 routers release with a minimum of effort, in and out of the table. That was a major concern at first but I finally accepted the fact that once the lock was in place it was next to impossible to move the motor.
> 
> You need to get rid of that knuckle buster and get the proper size wrench too.


Hi Ken,
LOL  Yes I need to get a better wrench. I bought a display model that was on clearance real cheap, but it was missing everything including the collets and wrench. :yes4: None of my other wrenches fit. :sad:

The mechanism works and when I put the original base on top the holes align perfectly. I just dont have the strength to turn the nut driver and its real easy to reach under. a Tee handle would work better.


----------



## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Hi Ken,
> LOL  Yes I need to get a better wrench. I bought a display model that was on clearance real cheap, but it was missing everything including the collets and wrench. :yes4: None of my other wrenches fit. :sad:
> 
> The mechanism works and when I put the original base on top the holes align perfectly. I just dont have the strength to turn the nut driver and its real easy to reach under. a Tee handle would work better.


Hi Johnny,

Yes a T-Handle would work better. A suggestion, drill a 1/2 or 3/8 diameter hole in the nut driver handle if possible and install a dowel rod or anything that would go through the handle with a snug fit. If you use something made of metal a 1/4" hole would suffice. If you don't want the "T" as a permanent fixture an O-Ring rolled on the "T" on both sides of the nut driver handle would help keep it in place.

Speaking of O-Rings you should buy a few that are a tight fit for your router bit shanks. Put them on the shank about 1/8 or so, but not less, from the bit cutting base so the bit won't slide all the way down in the collet. Not only that you don't have to try to hold the bit in place and tighten the collet at the same time. Just so you know they do come in two sizes, a fat one and a skinny one. Use the fat ones that are a bit undersize for the bit shanks and have to be lightly forced on and rolled down the shank.

Concerning the "knuckle buster" I worked on aircraft as a sheet metal mechanic and inspector over 25 years. While working as an inspector on the F-18 tail assembly I had to check tool boxes at random days and times. If any of the mechanics had a metal hammer, regular pliers or an adjustable wrench they were fired on the spot. No excuses were accepted because their first day of work they were warned and given the opportunity to remove them from their tool box and taken home at the end of the work day.


----------



## Marshall Border (Jan 17, 2011)

I had a lot of trouble with the height ajustment at one time until I learn that you have to have a router with some kind of quality . I got rid of the lower end Craftsman router and up-graded to my plung Dewalt 2 hp router and I've never had anymore problems . The Craftsman router would always move - reguardless of how tight I put it , and I can tell you - their's notting worse than getting different edges every other time you router something ,..........MB


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> Hi Johnny,
> 
> Yes a T-Handle would work better. A suggestion, drill a 1/2 or 3/8 diameter hole in the nut driver handle if possible and install a dowel rod or anything that would go through the handle with a snug fit. If you use something made of metal a 1/4" hole would suffice. If you don't want the "T" as a permanent fixture an O-Ring rolled on the "T" on both sides of the nut driver handle would help keep it in place.
> 
> ...


Thanks Ken for the tips. 
Well I never worked Aircraft, but I can imagine how important it would be to use the correct tool. One of my coworkers said that when he was in the AF and worked on I think F-15 or maybe 16 (I don’t really remember) told me that they would have to do an inventory of their tools before they left the plane, because they would lose stuff all the time. We had similar ways of getting fired when I was an apprentice carpenter like pulling a saw up on the roof by its cord. :no:


----------



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Marshall Border said:


> I had a lot of trouble with the height ajustment at one time until I learn that you have to have a router with some kind of quality . I got rid of the lower end Craftsman router and up-graded to my plung Dewalt 2 hp router and I've never had anymore problems . The Craftsman router would always move - reguardless of how tight I put it , and I can tell you - their's notting worse than getting different edges every other time you router something ,..........MB


Hi Marshall,
As far as the actual height adjustment, that works really nice and I was very surprised. It’s the just the spring clamp that is a little hard, but it’s really no trouble reaching under to pull the clamp leaver.

Talking about Craftsman, I sure wish I could have used my old 2 ½ Craftsman in the table instead of the PC. The Craftsman has a lot of power but it’s just not practical to use for free hand stuff. I like the PC so much better, but I’m not going to take that base off each time I use it. I do have the plunfe base that came with it, but it’s still new to me and I haven’t gotten use to using it.


----------

