# Lexan sheet full width of table instead of router insert



## lk23cix (Sep 13, 2015)

With all the routing, cutting, and leveling required to build a router table with an insert plate, would it be easier just to place a sheet of 3/8 Lexan on top of 1-1/2" MDF as shown in the pics?

I'm wondering why I never see designs like this. It seems like it'd be completely flat without much work and not have any of the leveling issues, having to use special leveling pads, etc. Are there any cons that I'm not considering with this design? 

Thanks!


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## phillip.c (Aug 9, 2012)

My router table is a 3/4 inch piece of MDF covered in formica. There is a single hole (about 1'') cut for the bit. The router base is mounted directly to the table from the underside with through-bolts. It's basically what you describe. You loose a bit of depth, but it's never been an issue for me.


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## andypack (Jan 28, 2009)

Hello,

I have used that method for my multiple router table as discussed in this thread (I can't post complete URL's yet):
table-mounted-routing/70609-am-i-crazy-4.html

As I (like you) don't like the idea of a router plate, I intend to build my next table for the large Triton router using exactly what you describe.

André


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

N/A; if you want to go that route, laminating with a High Pressure Laminate (Arborite etc.) would be cheaper ...and probably easier in the long run. Laminate is easier to maintain as well.
You will have to glue it down however. Just use carpenters glue and clamp it; you don't_ have_ to use contact cement.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

One of the advantages of using a router plate is that most of them have interchangeable inserts with different size openings. Another advantage of a removeable plate is that you can lift it and the router out of the table which makes changing bits and major height adjustments much easier.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

I use multiple routers and it is a real time saver to pop the whole plate out instead of swapping bits and setting bit heights again.

Also, I have some bits that don't fit an 1-1/2" opening, so having the ability to use a different plate is handy.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Lexan is to soft IMO , and would get scuffed and look like crap in no time, plus it would become less slippery as time goes on from the scratches . I'm going to use laminate over Baltic birch


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

With the Triton you won't need a plate for bit or height changes, but it's still handy to be able to pull the whole plate and router to use as a handheld router. Just leave the plate attached and it references nicely to a straightedge clamped to the work piece. I don't do enough routing to justify a second (or third) router so having a plate makes the most sense for me. Adding a cut-out for the router plate is not that difficult, nor is leveling the plate. If you can dedicate a router to the table your approach would be fine, but you should consider adding interchangeable inserts.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I think that using different hole sizes for different bits is a plus. I even use very large hole inserts for smaller bits to get the chip evacuation form below by the dust collector. I also have slots for tracks to clamp feather boards that wouldn't work with your lexon top, and the plastic top would have to be fastened down some way so it doesn't slip around, maybe screws? How do you get to the bit to change it. and make height adjustments? I have used plates for years on many different tables and had no problem, infact lifting them out to change bits and set bits by sighting across the plate is a plus for me.


Herb


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## The Hobbyist (Apr 25, 2015)

1-1/2" MDF plus a sheet of Lexan would remove about 1-3/4" or more of vertical movement from your router. If you are going to use 1-1/2" MDF, route out a recess to set the router into, giving you a lip perhaps 1/2" thick, so you gain that additional inch of vertical travel.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

N/a, here's my take on it:

1. A way to look at it is IF you're using continuously skinny bits for pattern routing, your idea is great.
2. IF you're going to be changing bit diameters (most users do) you will be best served with a router plate with a variety of rings.

I do both. I do everything the way I do because when I weigh the advantages versus the disadvantages, the advantages are greater.
With the manner you have described, there are no "speed bumps". But, ideally there are no "speed bumps" with router plate use either!

Note: If you use REAL LEXAN, it is quite pricey. Many vendors will sell you something "just as good" - but they're wrong.

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## lk23cix (Sep 13, 2015)

phillipdanbury said:


> My router table is a 3/4 inch piece of MDF covered in formica. There is a single hole (about 1'') cut for the bit. The router base is mounted directly to the table from the underside with through-bolts. It's basically what you describe. You loose a bit of depth, but it's never been an issue for me.


phillipdanbury, if I understand you correctly (I have included a sketch), I have seen a couple tutorials and videos with people doing it that way. I was worried that if the connection was stressed (say routing a thick piece with a template bit), that the screws could tear through the MDF. On my Bosch 1617, the bolts that go through the plate and into the base are M4 (~5/32) and seem skinny for this setup. Irrational fear? 

Also, got any pics of your table? :smile:

Thanks!
Dan


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## lk23cix (Sep 13, 2015)

RainMan1 said:


> Lexan is to soft IMO , and would get scuffed and look like crap in no time, plus it would become less slippery as time goes on from the scratches . I'm going to use laminate over Baltic birch


I initially thought that Lexan was sketchy for any type of router plate, but so many base plates are made of it. The Kreg one is made of phenolic which from what I understand isn't even as strong as Lexan. Right now I am using a laminate countertop and I made my own insert plate out of a 12x12x1/4 sheet of aluminum. I routed out a hair over 1/4" and have been adjusting the 4 corners with bolts. Maybe I should have routed a tiny bit deeper and used the leveling pads, but I've been running into issues keeping it flat 

Excellent choice on the Baltic birch, probably much stronger screw holding strength over MDF, but what about flatness - any chance of it warping over time? Also, do you plan on bolting the router base to the table and forgoing the insert plate?

Thank you!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I purchased a plate from Incra , there aluminum and very solid . I'm very concerned with dust and there plates work with there optional clean sweep inserts .

www.youtube.com/watch?v=wu2IRr3VK5I

As for Baltic birch warping , yes I believe any material will warp ove time other than cast iron , so I was going to make a torsion box underneith to support it . Basically ribs underneith going both directions . Not a hard task

I was going to add some more ribs to the left centre but aborted this as I decided not to use my table saws extentions for a router table . Want storage underneith instead .

You don't need to lap each board either , many just glue pieces together inbetween than add a bottom


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## phillip.c (Aug 9, 2012)

lk23cix said:


> phillipdanbury, if I understand you correctly (I have included a sketch), I have seen a couple tutorials and videos with people doing it that way. I was worried that if the connection was stressed (say routing a thick piece with a template bit), that the screws could tear through the MDF. On my Bosch 1617, the bolts that go through the plate and into the base are M4 (~5/32) and seem skinny for this setup. Irrational fear?
> 
> Also, got any pics of your table? :smile:
> 
> ...


I have the same router as you. I have no concern that the bolts won't hold even in the event of jarring shear stress. I think the base has three or four holes. I'm sure that altogether they could withstand several hundred pounds of shearing impact.

Edit: I should mention also that you never want to put yourself in a position where you might reasonably expect such stress on the router. You're likely to break/ bend a bit or destroy your router before those bolts break. Not to mention your hands or extremities.


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## lk23cix (Sep 13, 2015)

Herb Stoops said:


> I think that using different hole sizes for different bits is a plus. I even use very large hole inserts for smaller bits to get the chip evacuation form below by the dust collector. I also have slots for tracks to clamp feather boards that wouldn't work with your lexon top, and the plastic top would have to be fastened down some way so it doesn't slip around, maybe screws? How do you get to the bit to change it. and make height adjustments? I have used plates for years on many different tables and had no problem, infact lifting them out to change bits and set bits by sighting across the plate is a plus for me.
> 
> 
> Herb



Right now, I've got an old laminate countertop which is connected to a coffee table by door hinges so the whole thing swings open if i need to get to it. I'd imagine that if I was gonna build a new table, I'd do that part the same way. But the router base itself on the Bosch 1617, when it's upside down attached to a table, has an adjustment knob on the bottom and a allen screw that's accessible from the top of the table. The downside is you have to unlatch the router base from the router every time you make an adjustment which makes you lose a little precision, plus it's a hassle reaching under there every time. It's not perfect but cheaper than a lift kit. 

Are you using leveling pads to get the insert plate completely flat? I'm having a harder time than I thought I would keeping my DIY 1/4 aluminum insert flat to the table, but I'm using 4 bolts instead of leveling pads so I might just need to break down and use them instead. More points of contact I guess


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

36x24x3/4" MDF
Watco slathered and then waxed.
Drill holes, attach router.
Done.

So cheap I have another piece of MDF ready to go if anything sags. So far no sag (since March 2011)

Only support is from the 4 sides.

I have moved the router twice since the original position I choose. So far the empty holes haven't interfered.

By going simple and cheap, I was able to use experience to determine the final location of the router.

Thank you, Pat Warner.


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## lk23cix (Sep 13, 2015)

phillipdanbury said:


> I have the same router as you. I have no concern that the bolts won't hold even in the event of jarring shear stress. I think the base has three or four holes. I'm sure that altogether they could withstand several hundred pounds of shearing impact.
> 
> Edit: I should mention also that you never want to put yourself in a position where you might reasonably expect such stress on the router. You're likely to break/ bend a bit or destroy your router before those bolts break. Not to mention your hands or extremities.


Agreed. I definitely don't want to push hard against the bit to where I should worry about those kind of stresses, but figured I'd design for the worst case scenario. In my case I was more worried about the bolts being torn out of the MDF, but the MDF in this countertop I have seems a lot looser than some of the MDF sheets I have kicking around. (Maybe it's LDF?) My best bet might be to use the sheets instead of this particular countertop as a top.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

lk23cix said:


> Agreed. I definitely don't want to push hard against the bit to where I should worry about those kind of stresses, but figured I'd design for the worst case scenario. In my case I was more worried about the bolts being torn out of the MDF, but the MDF in this countertop I have seems a lot looser than some of the MDF sheets I have kicking around. (Maybe it's LDF?) My best bet might be to use the sheets instead of this particular countertop as a top.


You should be able to test this. Install a bolt to the edge of your existing MDF sheet. See if you can yank it out.

It will take approximately 3 or 4 times as much effort to rip out an actual install (depends on # of bolts your router base has)


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## lk23cix (Sep 13, 2015)

rwl7532 said:


> 36x24x3/4" MDF
> Watco slathered and then waxed.
> Drill holes, attach router.
> Done.
> ...


Awesome. I like cheap and simple. What did you find to be the most optimal router position for your use?


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

lk23cix said:


> Awesome. I like cheap and simple. What did you find to be the most optimal router position for your use?


Because my fencing is along the short 24" dimension, right in the middle. My shop is in a 1 car garage so my router surface is one of the shelves of a storage unit. Mostly I'm routing pieces that are no longer than 12". Your optimum location will depend on the work you do in your shop. But remember the further you stretch over your table, the more unsafe it becomes -- assuming you have enough table to fully support your pieces.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

My old setup was nothing more than a piece of 3/4" melamine and all I did was countersink the three screws and away I went .
Never had and strength issues where I was concerned about breaking away . It was a small PC-690 router though .




Now I'm doing something simular with a work station . But it's 1" mdf , much stronger than that melamine particle board material .
If you want to go the cheapest possible just do it. As mentioned , if it sags just spend another half hour and build another


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

My placement preference is offset to one edge but centered lengthways. A few members have theirs offset in both directions. I work from both sides of my table which keeps the router close for narrow pieces but gives me more support for panels when working on the other side.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Here's a measurement from my Incra table to give you an idea where Incra places there plate on this version . 
It may not help you one bit but if you were to install a miter slot it would provide you with a starting point. You may be more comfortable on a wider table to , who knows


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