# Router table refurb- Woodpeckers Unilift



## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

I'm in the process of refurbishing my router table. My old table didn't allow me to change bits without removing the router from the plate which was a royal pain (put support fixture under router, remove 4 screws from plate, remove router from under table and replace bit, then reverse the whole procedure to reinstall), very sloooow, so slow it made me want to just not use it. So, I decided to make some changes.

I bought a Woodpeckers Unilift because I liked the design, it seemed very sturdy and quite precise. It was also the only lift Woodpeckers made that would accomodate the particular PC router I have. I also bought an extreme extension so I could change bits above the table and a set of rings for the Unilift. I was going to install it in my old Rockler table top, but recently Woodpeckers had table tops on sale, so I bought a new table top too.

Tonight I mounted the table top to my old Rockler base, installed the router into the Unilift, mounted the Unilift into the table and leveled everything up. I also wired up a switch/outlet box combo so I can switch it on and off without having to fool around with the switch on the router. My next step is to install the daisy pin router guide I bought awhile ago and then I'm going to enclose the base of my table so I can collect all the dust that's generated, mount the switch and I'll be back in business.

So far I'm very impressed with the Unilift. It is obviously a high quality unit, machined from solid aluminum with steel guideposts and steel screws on the raising mechanism, all finished to a very high degree and all very heavy duty. The one disadvantage is that it is not a quick operation to put the router in and out of the Unilift. if a person had only one router and had to move it around, they should look at some other lift. But, for the person who is going to install the router into the Unilift and leave it in place, it is a very fine unit.

The Woodpeckers table is made from MDF and is ~1/2" thicker than my old Rockler table. However, the Rockler table had plastic on both the top and bottom while the new table only has it on top. Time will tell if that will cause any problems. The table came predrilled with four countersunk mounting holes, so it was a simple matter to attach it to my old base using 4 carriage bolts. I put a sraight edge across it and didn't see any gaps, so I think it came from the factory quite flat.

So far I'm quite satisfied with everything I purchased from Woodpeckers. It all fits without having to force anything and seems to be very high quality. The instructions could use a little improvement, but I managed to get everything to go together without an inordinate amount of brain sweat.

I'll post again once everything is up and running to give you my impressions of how it works.

rstermer


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

Continuing my refurb, yesterday I put together and installed the Daisy Pin Router Set I purchased from MLCS. At the get-go let me say that I bought it on sale and only paid $59.99 for the fixture and 4 router bits so its not as if I'd spent a ton on it. 

That said, it is somewhat of a disappointment. The first thing I noted was that there are no assembly instructions for the unit itself. Fortunately, there is a picture on the box which one can use as a guide, even though the picture is slightly different than what came in the box. There is a good set of instructions on how to install it on the table, and that part of the installation is quite esy if one follows MLCS instructions.

My gripe about the unit is really that it appears to be of low quality. The welding looks amatuerish, the bead is non-uniform and I have my doubts there is good penetration. The chrome plating on the toggle is already starting to flake off and there is some minor rust on the painted arm. It looks to me as if it was made in China or India (although there is no indication of foreign manufacture) and spent awhile in a leaky container.

I'm going to keep it because I've got an urgent need to use it on a project I'm working on, but I'm certainly unimpressed with the quality of the unit and, in the future, will only buy bits from MLCS, as that seems to be their strength.

rstermer


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Sorry to hear about your disappoint in their daisy pin router set. Have you tried to contact them about it? There's no you should keep it if it not satisfactory for you. You may have just gotten one of the few lemons that do slip through, (from time to time), any manufacturers quality control processes.


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> Sorry to hear about your disappoint in their daisy pin router set. Have you tried to contact them about it? There's no you should keep it if it not satisfactory for you. You may have just gotten one of the few lemons that do slip through, (from time to time), any manufacturers quality control processes.


I am sure they are a reputable business and would take it back if I complained, but I need to use it to complete a project I've got underway, making some safety catches for a folding workbench I invented, and need to finish up, so I'll just use it and see how it goes. 

As you say, someone else ordering the unit from them might get one that's completely satisfactory. Every bit I've purchased from them has been great, so hopefully this as an isolated incident.

rstermer


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## RMilgie (Feb 23, 2009)

Please let us know how the Pin router works out I was looking at that one , I was also considering the one from Woodline. Your review would be most help full. Will you be posting pics of the workbench ????


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

RMilgie said:


> Please let us know how the Pin router works out I was looking at that one , I was also considering the one from Woodline. Your review would be most help full. Will you be posting pics of the workbench ????


I'm don't know how to do that, but we recently purchased a digital camera, so if someone can explain to me how to do it, I'll give it my best shot.
rstermer


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

rstermer said:


> I'm don't know how to do that, but we recently purchased a digital camera, so if someone can explain to me how to do it, I'll give it my best shot.
> rstermer


Hi rstermer,

Just install the software for your camera to your pc. Save the pics, resize them if need be, then allow the forum software to upload them to your post/thread.


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> Hi rstermer,
> 
> Just install the software for your camera to your pc. Save the pics, resize them if need be, then allow the forum software to upload them to your post/thread.


Thank you, I will give that a shot.
rstermer


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

Today I took a trip to Lowes and bought a sheet of 5mm plywood, some hinges, sheet metal screws, a few magnets to make a latch and a drawer pull . I cut out and partially installed the side panels and did the same for the back. I located and attached a dust collection outlet on one of the sides. I quit when my back started hurting, probably too much bending over. But I'll get back to it tomorrow, finish attaching the sides and back, make a face frame for the front and make the front door. I'm seeing the end in sight and am looking forward to using it and to seeing how effective my new dust collection system will work.

rstermer


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI rstermer

After reading your post I took a look at mind,,It's not to bad the chrome plating is fine,,but I'm sure it came from China or where every,,but for the price it's hard to beat..I could not make one for that price 
and I 'm sure they buy it for 10 or 15 bucks and then resale them...so to say what can you only get for 50.oo now days..I'm sure you and I have got router bits that cost about the same so it's a deal...:sold:
But I will say if you don't like it call them and I'm sure they will replace the parts you don't like for free...or you give you a full refund...


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rstermer said:


> Continuing my refurb, yesterday I put together and installed the Daisy Pin Router Set I purchased from MLCS. At the get-go let me say that I bought it on sale and only paid $59.99 for the fixture and 4 router bits so its not as if I'd spent a ton on it.
> 
> That said, it is somewhat of a disappointment. The first thing I noted was that there are no assembly instructions for the unit itself. Fortunately, there is a picture on the box which one can use as a guide, even though the picture is slightly different than what came in the box. There is a good set of instructions on how to install it on the table, and that part of the installation is quite esy if one follows MLCS instructions.
> 
> ...


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI rstermer
> 
> After reading your post I took a look at mind,,It's not to bad the chrome plating is fine,,but I'm sure it came from China or where every,,but for the price it's hard to beat..I could not make one for that price
> and I 'm sure they buy it for 10 or 15 bucks and then resale them...so to say what can you only get for 50.oo now days..I'm sure and I have got router bits that cost about the same so it's a deal...:sold:
> ...


Bob- It did come with 4 bits, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and 1/2 - all straight. So, that's probably worth $40.00 right there. I'm not going to return it because I've got some projects I need to work on, but I was a little surprised about the daisy pin fixture's lack of quality because everything else I've purchased from MLCS has been first class, maybe not quite as good as Whiteside, but stll very good, for lots less money. 
rstermer


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

I did not know Whiteside sold one ,,have a link ?

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rstermer said:


> Bob- It did come with 4 bits, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8 and 1/2 - all straight. So, that's probably worth $40.00 right there. I'm not going to return it because I've got some projects I need to work on, but I was a little surprised about the daisy pin fixture's lack of quality because everything else I've purchased from MLCS has been first class, maybe not quite as good as Whiteside, but stll very good, for lots less money.
> rstermer


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> I did not know Whiteside sold one ,,have a link ?
> 
> ======


I was refering to the bits, I don't think they make the daisy pin fixture.
rstermer


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

Saturday I started work on the face frame. It is a little tricky because theopening is not square, so I can't make a rectangular frame and attach the door to it, it will require a little adjustment once I get it installed if I decide i want it to look real nice. I may just leave it overlapping though as I'm really anxious to get it back in operation. 

I cut and installed the top and bottom rails first. Then I cut the side rails a couple inches long, clamped them in place and marked their length, which I then cut. I cut two 1-1/8" recesses in one of the side rails using a forstner bit and glued two 1" magnets into each recess. I'll inlet mating recesses on the door and glue a 1' fender washer in place to make a magnetic catch.

I also inletted the other rail and installed the hinges. Then I quit to get my weekly dose of football! More tomorrow. I'm getting very close to being done!

I think I will use an ebony polyu finish on it.

rstermer


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

Last night I was almost up and running, attached the door, fooled around with it to get it to fit (amazing how accurate one has to be with hinges to get a door to swing smoothly on the level) and put a coat of ebony finish on the wood. 

Then I went back to the switch/outlet box I rigged up and got out the vohm meter to check out my wiring job prepratory to installing it on the table. It was almost the last thing I needed to do to get back running. Funny thing, no matter which way I flipped the switch I had continuity! So tonight I'll have to open up the box and see if I can figure out what I did wrong. There's a short in there somewhere, I've just got to find it! 

I think this brings up an important safety point, which is when doing wiring, don't ever rely on the appearance of correct wiring. Get out the test equipment and verify that the connections are as you expected them to be. If you don't have one, a vohm meter can be had from HF for only a couple of bucks and could save a $300 router (or $1000 tablesaw) from becoming a large paperweight. If I had just installed the box and hooked up my router, I could have had a serious problem. Thankfully, I've been around the block a time or two as far as electricity is concerned and so didn't just "hook 'er up" and see what happened next, neither should you. Check for continuity, isolation and anything else you can think of BEFORE applying power.

I expect to be routing again within a day or two and will, as suggested, post some pictures if I can figure out how to do so.

rstermer


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