# Need help finding a pattern bit



## Jorge Santos (Aug 1, 2012)

Hello all,
I am assisting a friend with a wood project and it's making me feel like Captain Ahab hunting his white whale. He purchased templates that require a 1/2 inch diameter x 1 1/2" cutting length pattern bit with a top mounted bearing. I've searched everywhere and the longest cutting length that I can find with a top mounted bearing for a pattern bit is 1 1/4". 
Does anyone out there know if this length bit even exists and if so, where can I find it? I've looked in Woodcraft, Rockler, Amazon, Ebay, CMT's website, Freud website, Porter Cable website. I am at a loss here, any help would be greatly appreciated.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

1 pc 1/2"SH 2-1/2" Blade Top Bearing Trim Router Bit | eBay

1 pc 1/2" SH 3" Extra Long Flush Trim Router Bit | eBay

1 pc 1/2" SH 2" Blade Extra Long Flush Trim Router Bit | eBay

==


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## TomB19 (Jun 27, 2011)

Want something cheap?


2" cut:

Straight / Spiral & Trim :: Flush Trim :: Flush Trim Router Bit - Shank Bearing, 2" Long Cutter - Yonico 14132 -


2.5" cut:

Straight / Spiral & Trim :: Flush Trim :: Flush Trim Router Bit - Shank Bearing, 2-1/2" Long Cutter - Yonico 14130 -


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## Jorge Santos (Aug 1, 2012)

*Sorry guys, should've specified the cutting diameter*

Thank you for the links, but I should've elaborated on the dimensions i've been looking for. I found many routers with the right length that had a 3/4" cutting diameter, it's the 1/2" cutting diameter that is alluding me.

BIT SPECIFICATIONS: 

Shaft = either 1/4" or 1/2" (prefer 1/2" but doesn't really matter)
Cutting Diameter = 1/2"
Bearing Diameter = 1/2"
Cutter length = 1 1/2" (this is the wrench in the gears here)


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

George, if the template is designed for use with a top mounted bearing then tackle it from the other side with a bottom mounted bearing. IE.. switch from free hand to table mounted or vice versa. This topic came up a couple weeks ago in a phone conversation and Clark Whiteside feels the 1-1/2" cutting length is too long with a top mounted bearing.


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## TomB19 (Jun 27, 2011)

Mike said:


> George, if the template is designed for use with a top mounted bearing then tackle it from the other side with a bottom mounted bearing. IE.. switch from free hand to table mounted or vice versa.


Template routing on a router table is a treat compared to template routing freehand, IMO. Everything is stable and visibility of the cut is brilliant.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

GeorgeNS said:


> Thank you for the links, but I should've elaborated on the dimensions i've been looking for. I found many routers with the right length that had a 3/4" cutting diameter, it's the 1/2" cutting diameter that is alluding me.
> 
> BIT SPECIFICATIONS:
> 
> ...


Hi George, I think your "wrench in the gears" is the 1/2" cutting diameter. In order to make a flush trim/pattern bit, the bearing would also need to be 1/2" which means it has to be a 1/4" shank bit. I can see where a 1/2" by 1-1/2" bit with a 1/4" shank would be tough to find. The whole job sounds a little problematic as the templates would need to be extremely thick in order to reach any point of control. I have no idea what this project looks like but I think I would be tempted to do the major part with a 5/8" guide bushing and a 1/2" bit and then go after the final 1/16" with a shorter 1/2" pattern bit.


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

GeorgeNS said:


> Hello all,
> I am assisting a friend with a wood project and it's making me feel like Captain Ahab hunting his white whale. He purchased templates that require a 1/2 inch diameter x 1 1/2" cutting length pattern bit with a top mounted bearing. I've searched everywhere and the longest cutting length that I can find with a top mounted bearing for a pattern bit is 1 1/4".
> Does anyone out there know if this length bit even exists and if so, where can I find it? I've looked in Woodcraft, Rockler, Amazon, Ebay, CMT's website, Freud website, Porter Cable website. I am at a loss here, any help would be greatly appreciated.


George

May I ask what is your project?

I seems if you are following a pattern you could put the template on the bottom and use a bottom bearing bit something like the third bit B J posted. If you are using a router table the bearing would be on top.

Hope this helps
Al


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## Jorge Santos (Aug 1, 2012)

The project is actually for an electric guitar body. All of the hardware components within the body need to be routed out. The bottom mounted bearing would be good, but it's not a through and through. It's a 1 3/4 inch guitar blank. The template guides show a routing of 1 1/2 inches into the wood for all the areas where the hardware will go. the sacrificial template we made from the master template is 1/2 inch thick MDF (I thought this was a bit overkill, but there must be some logic to this). I was thinking to do the same thing by routing down to a 1 1/4 inch (longest bit i have) then using a 2" up cut spiral bit with a bushing to for the rest. I'm thinking this will leave a small border around the bottom of the cavity though. any ideas?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

GeorgeNS said:


> The project is actually for an electric guitar body. All of the hardware components within the body need to be routed out. The bottom mounted bearing would be good, but it's not a through and through. It's a 1 3/4 inch guitar blank. The template guides show a routing of 1 1/2 inches into the wood for all the areas where the hardware will go. the sacrificial template we made from the master template is 1/2 inch thick MDF (I thought this was a bit overkill, but there must be some logic to this). I was thinking to do the same thing by routing down to a 1 1/4 inch (longest bit i have) then using a 2" up cut spiral bit with a bushing to for the rest. I'm thinking this will leave a small border around the bottom of the cavity though. any ideas?


Hi George, I just got this bit in:
69-010 Onsrud 1/2" Solid Carbide Double Edge Compression Router Bit | eBay
1-3/4" cutting length. I think something like that would do most of the job for you in short order. The 1/16" offset a 5/8" guide bushing would leave could be handled very quickly with a top bearing pattern bit. 
I suspect the thick template was because they were calling for a 1-1/2" top bearing bit which would mean you would have to have a starting hole and the whole job would need to be done at almost full depth cut. Even at that, I would probably clear out most of the waste with a forstner bit anyway.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

George, the simple solution to your problem is to use a guide bushing instead of a bearing guided bit. A spiral up cut bit will make short work of it.


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## Jorge Santos (Aug 1, 2012)

Thanks everyone! I think the spiral bit/ bushing combo is the way to go. I'll post a pic of the finished work once completed.


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

*The bit you're looking for*

Try mlcswoodworking and go to their Flush Trim and Shear Angle Flush Trim Router Bits. They list what you are looking for.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

" Does anyone out there know if this length bit even exists and if so..........)Some history.
Probably of little help but maybe interesting.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi George

I'll proffer a different solution. The cut out can be done under depth using a 1in top bearing cutter and the template. the template is then removed from the wood and the router cutter is used in the actual hole to cut to the required depth. Do that sort of stuff quite a bit

Regards

Phil


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## Jorge Santos (Aug 1, 2012)

Thanks Phil! I actually did some research on a guitar makers forum and they suggest this same technique and provided websites that sell top bearing bits with longer shafts too for just that purpose. I'm still waiting on the guitar blanks to arrive but have been trying this technique out on scrap pieces of wood successfully. 
Thanks again everyone. will post pictures once the the blanks come in.


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## Jorge Santos (Aug 1, 2012)

*And bingo! Guitar hardware slots routed*

Just an update guys. I found a specialty 1/2 length top bearing bit that features an extra long shank. I used forstner bits on my drill press to take out most of the stock, then gradually lowered the bit into the pattern cavities until i reached the needed depth. Here is a pic of the progress thus far (the hardware cavaties are all done).


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