# Stained Glass Accent Lamp Build Along…



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Time for a new project! Actually this is a project I had in mind since I picked up woodworking as a serious hobby a few months ago. The idea is a rail /stile / glass accent lamp. The design is a rectangular cube (I’m not sure if there is such a thing, but that’s what I’m calling it). 

Here’s what each of the 4 sides will look like sketched out on internet graph paper:










And the top view (note the exposed joints):










The only thing missing from the sketch up are some kind of feet. But I’ll figure those out based on the kind of socket / cord I end up using. 

This project present a few firsts for me. It will be the 1st time I’m mixing together wood, glass and electricity. Luckily I have a background in electronics, so that part will be easy. 

Unlike my previous rail / stile projects the panels (in this case glass) will not be trapped in groves of the rails / stiles. The idea will be to make “picture frames” that the glass can be adhered to from behind after the wood framework is complete and finished. My guess is that clear silicon should work well for this. If anyone has any suggestions please chime in.

For illumination I want to stick with some kind of LED bulb. My two concerns are light disbursement and heat build up. The lamp will be completely enclosed once its done. So the idea of an incandescent lamp burning away scares me. 

So far this is the best candidate I’ve found for a bulb:

http://www.imtra.com/product/marine...ment_bulb_b15d_socket_5mm/ilb15d42led12vw.htm










I’m open to suggestions as 36 bucks is a little steep. But with a 40,000 hr life expectancy it might outlive me! I’ll pick up a socket for this thing at my local electronics store and wire up a 12V adaptor. 

Here’s a sample of the glass cut up and ready to go:










I’m fortunate enough to have a great glass shop 10 minutes away from me in Rockaway, NJ. They were very helpful and cut the glass to my specifications very accurately. If I continue to work with glass in the future I’ll get the necessary tools to cut this stuff myself. BTW the square top piece is cut too large. My original design was for a cube, but that would have ended up being too large. I’ll visit the store one of these days to have it trimmed to the proper size for this design. 

For wood I’m going to stick with cheapo Home Depot poplar (¾” x ¾”). If things go well with this prototype I’ll spend some more cash on wood and make a purpleheart / purple glass lamp. But the lighter poplar I picked out should contrast well with the glass:










The 1st step will be to cut out all the sticks and prep them for routing. Stay tuned for more!


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Hi Nickbee, I think that would make an interrresting lamp,,, I just looked on EBAY for,,,,, LED Tail light bulb,,,,,, and there were a lot of different ones,, some cost as much as you quoted,,, some were cheaper,, of course,, they maybe had less LED's,, but you could put maybe a couple of them in there,, and maybe have them different colors,,, A friend of mine was restoring an antique Ships telegraph,, and it had white glass sides with the words slow, slow ahead. stop, back slow,, and what ever else it had on it,,, but the thing was he was lookin for an easy way to light the inside and also to eliminate the heat problem of an enclosed bulb in there,, he ended up using a lenth of rope lights,,,, he just bundled the lenght of rope light and put it in there and plugged it in,, and it actually looked very nice,, so thats what he went with,, 
There are lots of ways of solving that problem,, looking forward to seeing what you ended up with,, ,,,,,,,,, nice idea,,,


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Looking forward to seeing the progress here. Interesting project!

Corey


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Ya most of the LED lamps I found where "directional". The bulb will be mounted to some kind of base so it needs to project light all around and towards the top. So far this is the only bulb I've found that fits the bill. And I figured if it's good enough for high end yachts then it should be good enough for my lamp ...


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Yes, Nickbee, I know what you are talking about, as far as directional. But they had the same type of design that you posted, and others that were variations of that design. They were capable of projecting light 360 degrees. Its just that they gave you a few more options, not that you would save a lot of money there,,,but some were cheaper.

Or one more thought,, you could just get a bag of leds of what ever color you want,, and solder up your own light,,, making it with as many as you want,, you can buy LED's for pennys apeice... That would be your cheapest route...

I just did a quick search and you can buy em from this guy starting just a tick under 4 cents each.


http://www.hebeiltd.com.cn/?p=z.pricelist.led.diode


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Thanks for the idea Vis! I now have a few options to contemplate before ordering anything in a few days!

Ok time to talk a bit about dimensions. The final length of the corner stiles will be 7.25” but I will cut them a bit oversized. I learned the hard way that it is easier to bring the end grain of a stile flush with the length of a rail than the other way around. So I will purposely overshoot each side by about 1/16” then sand flush after glue up. The center stiles will be 6.25”. The allows for ¼” tenons on each end. The top and bottom rails will be 4.25” 3.75” of the rails will be visible and each end will get a ¼” tenon to attach to the corner stiles. The idea is we’ll have an alternating ¾” strips of glass and wood going all around the lamp. That’s the plan at least.

After cutting all the sticks on my table saw I kiss each end on my mini disc sander:










This allows me to square up the ends and fine tune the length of each stick so they are consistent:










Length consistency is key here. That is what will ensure the lamp goes together square with no gaps in the joinery.

A quick mock up shows things look good at 90 deg:










Here are all the sticks ready for the router. 4 corner stiles, 8 center stiles and 8 rails (top and bottom): 










Next stop, the router table…


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Time to get groovy, that is cut some groves in these sticks. For this I break out my 7/32” three winged slot cutter by Whiteside:










The bearing is for show as the fence will be setting the cutting depth. 7/32” is the standard size for 1/4” plywood but it will also make a good tenon size for this project. I set the fence depth to ¼” and raise the bit 1/8” off the table. That will make the expose wood “lip” in front of the glass 1/8”. I set up my feather boards and it’s time to start cutting:










After a few passes the corner stiles are cut and ready to go (expect for some notching they will need later):










Next I cut the top and bottom rails. After a few passes they have the “lip” of the frame cut:




























To tell you the truth I did not sketch or plan this out at all. I’m kinda winging it. I’ll cut the tenons next on these pieces then a grove will have to be cut in the top rails for the top square of glass. I’ll do this after cutting the tenons to avoid tear out (a lesson I learned for a previous project). 

Next I cut the center stiles. The 1” wide glass strips will be exposed ¾” between the center stiles. I set the depth of cut to 3/16”. This should translate to 1/16” wiggle room on either side of the glass once the box is assembled. A few passes and the frame is cut:




























So far so good (I think). Next I will cutting the tenons in the rails and tabs in the center stiles. Stay tunned for more!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Your making some great progress Nick. Nice work on the rails etc. Great photos as usual.

Corey


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Thanks Corey!

I had a thought that the base of the “T” on those center stiles might cast some shadows on my glass. I’m going to trim them down somehow tonight. Also I’m thinking about making the frame of the lamp black. Not painted black but some kind of dye so you can still tell its wood. Something I need to think about this week so I can try some samples.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Time to cut the “tabs” on the center stiles. For this I break out my coping jig / sled. Here you see the work piece clamped in with a backer to prevent tear out:










And it’s ready for the router table. The upside down feather board works as a stop:










A few seconds later the “tab” is cut:










Since I have the patience of a three year old I have to do a quick mock up of a frame / glass once I have two stiles cut:










Everything lines up nice and square and the joints look good:










Looking at the back of the mock up you can see my concern with the base of the Ts on the stiles:










The bulb will be projected from the center of the lamp and I could see these casting some uneven shadows on the glass. I get back to the router table and after a few passes with the slot cutter they chopped down to the same level of the glass:



















Granted I sacrificing some glue area but these things will not be under any stress so it’s not a huge concern. At least now I know shadows won’t be an issue on these pieces. 

Here’s an update on a few other things. Going off a recommendation I’m going to give Solar-Lux dye a try (jet black). I have it on order along with the retarder. Any experiences you guys can share would be appreciated along with recommended top coats for a low sheen finish. 

I put the LED bulb on order along with a socket (from a yachting web site) . I also put a touch switch kit on order from here:

http://www.amazing1.com/simplex.htm

This will allow my to place a piece of metal somewhere on the lamp to be used as an on-off switch. And since it runs off of 12VDC like the bulb it will be perfect. I’ll get a 12 converter and run it to the lamp for everything. That should keep things safe. 

Next I cut the tenons in the top /bottom rails.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

OK guys. It’s time to take this project out of hibernation. I’ve acquired some cool stuff for this project which I’ll share soon. Including an LED array bulb, touch switch circuit, and black dye for the wood. 

When I left off I had all the parts cut for the most part. That allowed me to do a quick mock up with some wood and glass:










Pretty cool! Now one “flaw” with this design is that the top piece needs to be notched out in order to fit properly. If you look close you can see what I mean in this view on the top inside corner:










In the past using this design for wood boxes it was not too hard to notch the box bottom to fit right in. But the idea of notching stained glass to fit in accurately makes me shiver with fright. So instead I notch out the stiles. Here you can see the area that needs to be removed:



















Over to the router table. After modifying my sled (removing some material) and inserting my 1/8” spiral up cut bit I’m ready to make the 1st cut (note the high-tech 2x4 stop):




























After making the 1st cut I take light 1/16” passes until the notch is complete:










Now I should have clearance Clarence to insert a square (no notches) glass top:










The good thing is I’ll be able to cut the glass now to test the fit and to make sure I removed enough material from the stiles. But that’s going to require using a glass cutter for the 1st time. 

Stay tuned for more!


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## Timeman (Oct 3, 2008)

I was looking fwd to seeing a Red Bull light Nickbee 

This is going to look nice, will it project a symbol on the roof, or pattern ?
that would be way cool..

Cheers Noel.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Timeman said:


> I was looking fwd to seeing a Red Bull light Nickbee
> 
> This is going to look nice, will it project a symbol on the roof, or pattern ?
> that would be way cool..
> ...


Nope, just an accent lamp on a night table.


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## Timeman (Oct 3, 2008)

*Gothic*

Looking nice and Gothic I think 

Some time in the future I'm looking at doing this type of coffee table.

I could only think how wonderful some thing like this from you would be, 

like if my thinking is right it would be a masterpiece 

Love your work mate!

Cheers Noel

This is a Floating Coffee Table created in a stylish Ebony Wood and lights incorporated into the design.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

That is a great design! Something to keep in mind! 

And I did not think of it but I think you are right. With the flat black wood and the green glass this lamp might have a Goth look to it. Fun times!


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

After all the notches are cut in the stiles I do a quick mock up using a piece of ply to mimic the glass top. Good thing I checked because the notches were not nearly long enough to fit in the top:










I guess my ability to do trigonometry in my head needs some honing. 

So it’s back to the router table and lots of passes to make the notches bigger:










That should do it! 

When I originally had my glass cut at a local place I had a larger design in mind. This means having to cut the top glass I have to fit this new design. Instead of running back and forth to the glass store I decide to buy my own tools to cut straight lines in glass. This included a pistol cutter and a pair of running pliers. 

After making a light score in the glass with the cutter:










I used the pliers to snap the waste away:










I was amazed at how clean the cut was for my 1st attempt. After cutting the other side the top piece is ready to go:










A quick mock up confirms the top will be able to fit in and things are looking good:



















Glue up of the shade is next…


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Quick correction to my glass cutting technique. I showed this thread to my friend that coached me on my glass cutting venture. She noted how I was not using the pliers properly. The jaws are curved (who knew):










So the proper way to use them is to line up the center of the pliers (which is marked) with the score from the cutter.:










Then after a light squeeze you hear this cool SNAP and you get a perfectly clean cut:



















I’m amazed at how light of a score it takes to accomplish this. I see more stained glass projects in my future!


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## Rolf Maxa (Feb 8, 2005)

Nickbee, I like you project very much. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished project. I also like the detail of you pictures, very helpful for anyone that is looking to do a project like yours. Keep the pictures coming great work.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

The glue up begins. 1st I‘m going to just glue the center stiles to the top and bottom rails. In this pic you see the outside stiles dry fitted for alignment purposes. The maple blocks were plained down for the exact thickness needed for spacing the center stiles. This will ensure the same amount of glass will be exposed between each stile. My magnetic fixtures / presses keep everything snug during the glue up:










After an hour of curing one side is ready to done:










3 more to go…


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## unlimitedwoodworker (Mar 3, 2006)

This is really cool! I can't wait to see the finished product light up!!
Jeff


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

That makes 2 of us!!! I hope the light is consistent over the whole shade. This is something we won't know until the project is done...


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

After a few rounds of gluing the 4 sides are done (center stiles to the top/bottom rails):










Now this next step was not necessary but I have OCD when it comes to my joinery. I had some 1/16” dowels left over from my model airplane days. So I decided to peg the center stile tenons:




























I do a quick dry mock up with the 4 corner stiles and everything aligns well:



















I made the comer stiles proud by 1/32”. I figured I’ll line up the tops when gluing then sand off the excess down below ensuring the bottom sits flat and level. 

Speaking of the bottom, here’s the rabbet that the base will fit into. Yup, the corners of the base will have to be notched:










Next is the final glue up of the shade…


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## unlimitedwoodworker (Mar 3, 2006)

Looking great!!


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Ok time for the final glue up of the shade:



















Thanks to some accurate joinery everything squares up nice without even trying:










After some initial sanding with medium paper the joints blend together nicely: 




























I mock up a quick base (not the final version) to simulate the position of the LED bulb:










The socket I got uses two screw terminals to attach the wires from the 5V converter. I don’t even need to break out my soldering iron. And let there be light:










And of course I can’t wait any longer. I break out my cut up glass and use blue tape from inside to mock up the shade (ignore the shadows from the blue tape inside):


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

My 1st impression is I’m not thrilled. The lamp is not bright enough and the glass is not opaque enough. The LEDs can be seen though the glass as hot spots:










And remember the notch in the stiles. Those illuminate from the top:










I hope this effect diminishes after the wood is dyed black. 

I take the lamp upstairs to see what it might look like in its final setting:

Off:









And on:









That looks decent. But I think I might try a brighter bulb and darker glass. Or maybe diffuse the bulb inside the shade somehow. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Very nice job Nickbee

I think a diffuser cone shape would do the trick or maybe florescent light, one of the new types that just screw into a round base fixture... ..

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## unlimitedwoodworker (Mar 3, 2006)

Maybe buy your own led's? you can get a piece of plexi glass and drill holes and mount the led's in it. You can do a box inside a box sort of thing. That way the light gets disbursed equally and you won't have dark corners if you know what i mean. Here is a quick example.
LED's are only 10.00 per 100 on ebay.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Once again, a first class job and photo-shoot. So far as I'm aware, the way to evenly illuminate a glass panel is to have the light source under the bottom edge of the glass. Old time "steam" radio's used this method to illuminate the tuning dial glass evenly.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Thanks guys! I am looking at some larger LED array Bulbs. I’ll use this bulb for a smaller “cube” with a similar design. That would make a cool Xmas gift …


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Also a friend (who is not involved with stained glass at all) made a great suggestion to double up the panes of glass to diffuse the light more. Simple and easy. And I have plenty of left over glass to try this out. Stay tuned for more...


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