# Most used router bits?



## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

What are your top 5 most used router bits? 
(If you would like to expand to your top 10 most used bits that would be even better.)


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## woodshopdemos (Oct 13, 2008)

1) 2" strait bit with bearing at end.
2) 2" straight but with bearing on boottom
3) 1/8" rounding over bit
4) 1/4" rounding over bit
5) cabinetmaking set (5 cutters) for rail and stile doors
6) 1/2" mortising bit (flat bottom)
7) 1/2" upcut spiral - solid carbide
8) 3/32" grooving cutter (for cutting biscuit slots)
9) 

well, I got to 8. It is a good idea to buy bits as you need them, not as a complete set. Also, I try to buy 1/2" shank bits. All of the aboove are available in 1/2" except the 1/8" roundover... may take ssome searching.

Carbide tipped bits shold be cleaned immediately after use. Pitch left on can erode carbide.

Buy top quality bits always: CMT, Whiteside, etc.

Bits with bearings need lubrication.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

I don't have a top 5 or 10. Every time I pick up a router the bit requirement is different. My favourite and usually the one I start with is a spiral bit called an Onsrud. That's a manufacturer that developed the concept but the Freud version of that is my preferred starting point. However, after that, anything goes. I usually buy bits according to use and level.

For example, I put together (note I'm not saying built) a set of drawers for my tools module. The objective was someplace to put tools and also learn how to make dovetail joints for drawers. I bought the cheapest bits I could find -- Woodline USA. 

I helped one of my friends with some molding for his 200+ year old home. He needed 1 1/2" quarter round. I couldn't find the bit anywhere except, again, Woodline. Now, what are the chances I'll ever need a huge quarter round like that again -- yup, non existant - so, again, I bought the cheapest. The most expensive was Freud at >$130 and the Woodline was about $30.

Now, my wife wants a frame for one of her projects. I collected 8 skids, reclaimed the hard wood, and went out and bought the best bits I could find. I also bought a good metal detector. The bits were more than 10x the price of the Woodline bits but the difference is like the blackest night and the brightest day. The cheap bits were just that - they chattered, the cut was there but it wasn't terribly clean. The expensive ones ran smoothly, the cut was clean, very little splintering, the feed was quite constant but at about the same speed as the cheap ones. 

Will I buy cheap bits again? Sure. Why waste a good quality bit for a junk job. I use reclaimed wood for most of my projects and although I'm getting better and more equipped, I still would hate to hit a nail with a $100 bit.

In an attempt to keep my costs down, I do pick up routers, bits and other stuff at yard and garage sales. As a matter of fact, that's how I put together the majority of my shop. I picked up stuff that I could use but could never have bought new. I'll pay $1 for a router bit at a yard sale - I don't care what kind it is. But I've had guys ask $100 for a bit that sells for $20 new.

The moral of the story - define your need carefully - buy according to your need - and seek out bargains - know what you're looking for and the range of prices, new and used. The only constant in my shop is the Onsrud.

Allthunbs


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

I'm pretty low on the experience totem pole but here is what I've used most:

1) 2-flute straight cutter 3/4" for rabbeting
2) 2-flute 23/32" straight cutter (3/4" plywood) for dados
3) 1/2" (couple different lengths) bearing bit for flush trimming edge banding, pattern routing and light jointing
4) 1/2" cove and 3/8" round over for molding, used as a pair.
5) 3/8" 2-flute for mortise cutting (didn't have a larger spiral, worked great but had to stop a lot to clean out packed in dust and chips with vacuum)

On the list of bits I'm GOING to use a lot are a set of cope-and-stick bits along with a panel raising bit. I've found a profile I like and I hope to be working on cabinets for the darkroom this spring. And probably a drawer lock bit and maybe a glue line bit also for the darkroom build.

Furthermore I expect I'll be using the straight cutters a lot for some box-cutting joints on my list of upcoming smaller projects.


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

Really helpful and interesting replies so far folks.
Please keep them coming.

=====

Woodshopdemos said: 
6) 1/2" mortising bit (flat bottom)
7) 1/2" upcut spiral - solid carbide

I'm wondering why the 1/2" mortising bit would be necessary when you have the 1/2" upcut spiral. I already had a 1/2" upcut spiral on my buy list is why I'm asking.

=====

Allthunbs said:
I also bought a good metal detector.

That sounds like a good thing to have. Could you share which brand/model you bought and about how much it cost?

=====

Thanks,
Skyglider


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

He may be referring to a hinge mortising bit. These are typically short and are machined such that they cut flat across their whole diameter on the bottom. Some bits (spiral or 2-flute) don't cut completely flat across their bottom (top if in table)


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

rwyoung said:


> He may be referring to a hinge mortising bit. These are typically short and are machined such that they cut flat across their whole diameter on the bottom. Some bits (spiral or 2-flute) don't cut completely flat across their bottom (top if in table)


rw,

There you go again, using common sense and logic. A flat cutting 1/2" diameter hinge mortising bit would be the right diameter for standard entry door hinges (I think - I just looked at an entry door hinge and the radius at the corners look to be 1/4 inch. Am I right on the radius?).

I was thinking of mortise and tenon joints and couldn't see why a flat bottomed mortise would be important.

Thanks,
Skyglider


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

May I suggest using the bit below,, it has a bearing in place and it's very short that's all that's needed for hinges...you can also use it for tetons.
With a shop made jig/template you can put hinges in quick and easy..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_dado.html


=========


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi

Spiral bit
Shear cut flush trim bit
Round over bit
Plunge round over bit
Straight cutter bit
Dish cutter bit
T&G
Bull Nose
Slot cutter
Rail & Style with panel cutter
Mortising bit
Any bit that is free, (given as a gift).

Ok, so I have 12.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Skyglider said:


> Really helpful and interesting replies so far folks.
> Please keep them coming.
> Woodshopdemos said:
> 6) 1/2" mortising bit (flat bottom)
> ...


Consider the upcut/downcut spiral (Onsrud) the router version of a drill bit that can also do _some_ sideways cutting. If you use a mortising bit, you really move a lot of material quickly. The spiral takes less of a bite each time, but it is designed for a different function. I use the spirals for those holes that you see in shelving uprights; but, if I were to install a fixed shelf, I 'd cut a rabbit using a mortising bit.



Skyglider said:


> Allthunbs said:
> I also bought a good metal detector.
> 
> That sounds like a good thing to have. Could you share which brand/model you bought and about how much it cost?
> =====


I have two. Funny, I've got lots of stuff x 2. The first I got was a stud finder with a metal setting. It worked ok but I had to make contact with the wood and slide the finder along for it to find any nails. It was always getting caught in the splinters, knots or imperfections in the wood's surface.

When I started to scavange for hard wood pallets, I got one of those wands that you see in airports. The one I have is a Lumber Wizard III ( wizind.com ) 

Now, was the stud finder a waste, no, while I was working on relatively consistant material, it was functional and I didn't get any nails in my blades. However, as soon as I started getting real raunchy stuff with metal particles imbedded in the wood, different story. I'm quite satisfied with my purchase but I must forwarn you -- _every_ time you turn it on, test it. 

Allthunbs


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

When you reclaim lumber you should have a metal detector, but it does not have to cost a fortune, it just needs to work. The Little Wizard can be had for around $20 on sale. I have one, it works just fine.


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

Mike said:


> When you reclaim lumber you should have a metal detector, but it does not have to cost a fortune, it just needs to work. The Little Wizard can be had for around $20 on sale. I have one, it works just fine.


Checked out the Little Wizard II. Very interesting. Is there no end to "things we need" for woodworking..... 

Thanks,
Skyglider


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Mike said:


> When you reclaim lumber you should have a metal detector, but it does not have to cost a fortune, it just needs to work. The Little Wizard can be had for around $20 on sale. I have one, it works just fine.


Hi Mike et al: Define use carefully. I tried the miniature version and yes, it works but you have to scan larger boards twice to get a reading. The large one will scan from the top and the bottom. I hold the board in the middle, scan one end top and bottom, flip the board over and scan the other end. 

As compared to: putting one end of the board on a bench scanning up one side, down the other, turn the board around, scan up one side down the other, flip the board over and do the same thing again. I figure the major source of my material is going to be skids so I figured I'd get something efficient. 

Absolutely the mini version works but for my uses it is not proficient.

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Guys

I also have my share of metal detectors,,,2 of them are just plastic toys, see the last link below, but they do make a good one but it's not cheap 

They run about 100.oo bucks, but that's cheap if you add up the cost of jointer blades and the planer blades, that little nails can do to cutting tools..

http://www.amazon.com/Wizard-Detect...ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1229353189&sr=1-7
http://www.amazon.com/review/produc...cm_cr_acr_txt?_encoding=UTF8&showViewpoints=1
http://www.amazon.com/KJB-Security-...f=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1229353189&sr=1-20


plastic toy below
http://www.amazon.com/Wizard-Indust...f=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1229353189&sr=1-14

======


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Skyglider said:


> What are your top 5 most used router bits?
> (If you would like to expand to your top 10 most used bits that would be even better.)


Here is a link to an earlier post about the Top 10 bits...

http://www.routerforums.com/86449-post3.html


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## waynoe (Sep 29, 2004)

The bits I use the most without question are the 1/4 roundover and flush trim. I use these bits on almost every project I build. Next would be straight cutters 3/4.1/2 and 1/4 (and the undersized equivelants). Finally woud be the 45 degree chamfer. All the rest of the bits are nice but I don't use them too often. 
I only use 1/2" shanks with one exception I use 1/4 upspiral and its metric equivelant for shelf pins.


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

curiousgeorge said:


> Here is a link to an earlier post about the Top 10 bits...
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/86449-post3.html


 Hi curiousgeorge,

I saw that thread before. I examined the top 10 bits recommended by FWW and decided that many of the bits were not suited for my situation.

Appreciate your input very much though,
Skyglider


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

waynoe said:


> The bits I use the most without question are the 1/4 roundover and flush trim. I use these bits on almost every project I build. Next would be straight cutters 3/4.1/2 and 1/4 (and the undersized equivelants). Finally woud be the 45 degree chamfer. All the rest of the bits are nice but I don't use them too often.
> I only use 1/2" shanks with one exception I use 1/4 upspiral and its metric equivelant for shelf pins.


Waynoe,

Your router bit usage very much agrees with my expected usage. I was going to leave the 45 degree chamfer bit off my starter bit list to save some money but I'm going to add it back on after reading your post.

Thanks!
Skyglider


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Guys
> 
> May I suggest using the bit below,, it has a bearing in place and it's very short that's all that's needed for hinges...you can also use it for tetons.
> With a shop made jig/template you can put hinges in quick and easy..
> ...


Bobj3,

Since there is a top bearing on the bit, do you know if those dado cleanout bits can be used as template/pattern bits and used to cut deeper than their cutting length of 3/16"? Say up to 3/8" deep? IOW, can the bottom cutters of the bit cut down from zero to 3/8"? Or are those bits just suited for cleaning up roughness at the bottom of dados and maybe cutting shallow mortises for hinges?

I'm thinking about using one of those bits to cut the ledges for a router table's router mounting plate.

Thanks,
Skyglider


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Skyglider said:


> Bobj3,
> 
> Since there is a top bearing on the bit, do you know if those dado cleanout bits can be used as template/pattern bits and used to cut deeper than their cutting length of 3/16"? Say up to 3/8" deep? IOW, can the bottom cutters of the bit cut down from zero to 3/8"? Or are those bits just suited for cleaning up roughness at the bottom of dados and maybe cutting shallow mortises for hinges?
> 
> ...


Skyglider: Oops. Hold on a minute. Who's baseplate are you using? If it's OakPark/Router workshop you want to use the "Making A Recess Template" instructions that used to be on the Router Workshop site. I went back and now I can't find it. Phone Oak Park in Elie Manitoba and ask them for the url.

The instructions are very specific using a 1 1/4" guide with a 1" bottom cleaning bit. I've made a bunch of these and each one I do gets better. They also want a 3/8" spiral bit.

I strongly recommend that you test the thickness of all of the baseplates you'll use with this table top. I found variations in the thickness of the baseplate material. Some baseplates sit proud of the table surface and others sit too far below. I'm now getting specific as to which baseplates can go on which end of the table.

I hope this helps.

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Skyglider

Yes I use them for many jobs,, they will plunge down as far as you want to go.... 

They are great for templates/patterns most of my templates are 1/4" to 1/2" thick...the one I made for hinges is 1/4" thick plastic/MDF, it just clamps to the door/box/cabinet and all that's needed it to drop the bit in place and hog out the pocket...

=====



Skyglider said:


> Bobj3,
> 
> Since there is a top bearing on the bit, do you know if those dado cleanout bits can be used as template/pattern bits and used to cut deeper than their cutting length of 3/16"? Say up to 3/8" deep? IOW, can the bottom cutters of the bit cut down from zero to 3/8"? Or are those bits just suited for cleaning up roughness at the bottom of dados and maybe cutting shallow mortises for hinges?
> 
> ...


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

allthunbs said:


> Skyglider: Oops. Hold on a minute. Who's baseplate are you using? If it's OakPark/Router workshop you want to use the "Making A Recess Template" instructions that used to be on the Router Workshop site. I went back and now I can't find it. Phone Oak Park in Elie Manitoba and ask them for the url.
> 
> The instructions are very specific using a 1 1/4" guide with a 1" bottom cleaning bit. I've made a bunch of these and each one I do gets better. They also want a 3/8" spiral bit.
> 
> ...


 I'm still deciding whether to buy a Rockler 1/4" anodized aluminum plate or a Harbor Freight 3/8" phenolic plate. A comment that thin anodizing can wear off and the aluminum leaving black marks on the work has raised concerns about getting the Rockler plate. I also wonder if the Harbor Freight phenolic plate will sag over the years. The procedure I plan to use to install the plate is:

1. Cut a rectangular hole that is 5/8" smaller than the size of the plate.
2. Place the plate centered over the hole.
3. Put 1x4 pieces of wood along the sides of the plate, held down using double sided carpet tape.
4. Remove the plate.
5. Router down, the thickness of whichever plate I'm using. I need a flush-trim bit with the bearing on the top to do this.

Alternatively, I could install a guide bushing on the router with a 1/2" straight or spiral bit. Then in step-3, put strips of wood the thickness of the bushing between the plate and the 1x4's.

If the dado clean out bit that Bobj suggested will work for steps 1-5, then I could buy a 1/2" diameter one and use it for the mounting plate and to route hinges and dado cleanout later.

Thanks,
Skyglider


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

A Roseau plate may be nice too, if you want to try that.

http://www.routerforums.com/Roseauhttp://www.amazon.com/Rousseau-3509-9-Inch-12-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B00002242B/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

I never really thought about it, but I have used the Woodpecker aluminum router plate for three years and never saw any marks from the aluminum up until I sold it on eBay.


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI Skyglider
> 
> Yes I use them for many jobs,, they will plunge down as far as you want to go....
> 
> ...


Hey Bob, that's good news! I was thinking about buying a Whiteside K41 bit that is basically the same thing but with a cutting length of 1/2". The K41 bit costs about $24.00 compared to the MLCS bit that costs $13.95. The K41 bit is a 5/8" diameter bit but a 1/2" diameter MLCS bit would be better for routing entry door hinges later.

Thanks, you just saved me about $10.00,
Skyglider


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

nickao65 said:


> A Roseau plate may be nice too, if you want to try that.
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/Roseauhttp://www.amazon.com/Rousseau-3509-9-Inch-12-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B00002242B/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


Hi nick,

From what I've read, the Roseau plate has a purposely built in crown of a few thousands of an inch, to compensate for the weight of the router. Problem folks are reporting is that the crown does not go down to perfect flat using a usual 2-1/4 HP router.

The Harbor Freight plate is supposed to be a copy of the Roseau plate except it is flat.

Thanks,
Skyglider


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I have had no problems at all with it. I think some do and others don't. You know I route a fair amount and unlike some woodworkers experience a small defect in the table or a crown of a few thousandths never threw off any of my work. 

Actually, I get so used to the tables I have and their particular defects I just get used to working on them. Other peoples tables tend to feel weird to use.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Skyglider

see snapshot below


========


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

nickao65 said:


> A Roseau plate may be nice too, if you want to try that.
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/Roseauhttp://www.amazon.com/Rousseau-3509-9-Inch-12-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B00002242B/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
> 
> I never really thought about it, but I have used the Woodpecker aluminum router plate for three years and never saw any marks from the aluminum up until I sold it on eBay.


This is interesting. Maybe the higher cost of the Woodpecker plate = thicker anodizing than the cheaper Rockler one?

Out of curiosity, why did you sell the Woodpecker plate on ebay?

Thanks,
Skyglider


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI Skyglider
> 
> see snapshot below
> 
> ========


Hi Bob,

Back from watching the videos on the links you posted. Enjoyed those videos a lot. Which plate is that, that is sagging?

=


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Skyglider

That's a Roseau plate that has a crown built into it...

=====



Skyglider said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> Back from watching the videos on the links you posted. Enjoyed those videos a lot. Which plate is that, that is sagging?
> 
> =


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Skyglider
> 
> That's a Roseau plate that has a crown built into it...
> 
> =====


Hmmm, seems like the phenolic plates are more prone to sagging than the aluminum ones. Not all, but more prone. I think I'll chance a Rockler aluminum plate and see what happens. Any other router mounting ideas that's not too expensive?

Thanks,
Skyglider


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Skyglider

I'm not a big fan of the 1/4" thick Alum. plates but I do like the 3/8" thick phenolic plates... the thicker the better in phenolic, that's why I like the HF so much, it's 1/4" thick around the outside edge but the rest of it's 3/8" thick..real hard to bend 3/8" thick phenolic plate.. 

=========








Skyglider said:


> Hmmm, seems like the phenolic plates are more prone to sagging than the aluminum ones. Not all, but more prone. I think I'll chance a Rockler aluminum plate and see what happens. Any other router mounting ideas that's not too expensive?
> 
> Thanks,
> Skyglider


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Out of all the router tables I ever purchased or built I have never had a plate sag. Whether aluminum, phenolic, even the clear plastic. At least I never noticed it.

I sold the Woodpecker plate because I sold the Hitachi router that went with it. 

It was the Woodpecker plate that was designed to hold a plunge router called the plunge lift. It was nice!

Its been slow and I whittled down 7 router tables to one OP and two "built ins" for my table saw. Giving me money for the OP stuff and some Festool routers too. Not enough business just to buy new stuff.

I would go with the Woodpecker over the Rockler unless the Rockler had a great sale like they do now. I would ask myself why Rockler is redesigning the plates though.


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Skyglider
> 
> I'm not a big fan of the 1/4" thick Alum. plates but I do like the 3/8" thick phenolic plates... the thicker the better in phenolic, that's why I like the HF so much, it's 1/4" thick around the outside edge but the rest of it's 3/8" thick..real hard to bend 3/8" thick phenolic plate..
> 
> =========


Bob,

I'll go with your experience and buy the Harbor Freight phenolic plate.

Thanks!
Skyglider


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

nickao65 said:


> Out of all the router tables I ever purchased or built I have never had a plate sag. Whether aluminum, phenolic, even the clear plastic. At least I never noticed it.
> 
> I sold the Woodpecker plate because I sold the Hitachi router that went with it.
> .....snip


 With your comment about not having any plate sag and Bobj liking the Harbor Freight phenolic plate, I'm going with the HF plate. Thanks for sharing why you sold your Woodpecker plate too. ...

Skyglider


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

nickao65 said:


> Out of all the router tables I ever purchased or built I have never had a plate sag. Whether aluminum, phenolic, even the clear plastic. At least I never noticed it.
> 
> I sold the Woodpecker plate because I sold the Hitachi router that went with it.
> 
> ...


Nick:

How do you make a baseplate? I would take the bolt pattern from the old baseplate (the manufacturer's original) but how do you get the centre hole lined up properly. I'm also trying to figure out how to do the "step" in the centre hole to allow for guides to be inserted.

I have a collection of Oak Park guides but they're so expensive and the others are so cheap, it is hard to qualify the difference. 

Allthunbs


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Gee it's nice to know I'm not the only early bird ;-)


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Out of all the router tables I ever purchased or built I have never had a plate sag. Whether aluminium, phenolic, even the clear plastic. At least I never noticed it."

I have to go along with Nick on this one, I too have made plates out of 3mm (about 1/8") Aluminium and even Bj could have stood on one foot on such plates without any significant bowing!
I've often smiled whilst reading things that have been said on this forum regarding "bowing" of plates but haven't responded in case I could be considered controversial! Perhaps American Aluminium/plastics aren't as strong as Australian ones!


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> "Out of all the router tables I ever purchased or built I have never had a plate sag. Whether aluminium, phenolic, even the clear plastic. At least I never noticed it."
> 
> I have to go along with Nick on this one, I too have made plates out of 3mm (about 1/8") Aluminium and even Bj could have stood on one foot on such plates without any significant bowing!
> I've often smiled whilst reading things that have been said on this forum regarding "bowing" of plates but haven't responded in case I could be considered controversial! Perhaps American Aluminium/plastics aren't as strong as Australian ones!


Ah the wisdom of the aged. I too was going to add my 2 cents worth but like you, am considerate of possible controversy.

Harry, is there an essay on making a baseplate somewhere? I've been using OakPark template guides but they're so expensive at $14.95 ea plus the ring when I can buy 7 with 2 lock nuts for $25-.

I'm figuring I can use both if I can put together an 11 x 11 baseplate.

Have you ever converted a ski into a duplicator?

Gee, I'm glad you're back. I was getting worried you'd fallen off the edge of the earth down there ;-)

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Hey 

But because you are in the neg. part of the world ( UPSIDE DOWN) the plates have a crown in them from the word go...the router just pulls them flat when you bolt it down.. 



Ping Pong 

======



harrysin said:


> "Out of all the router tables I ever purchased or built I have never had a plate sag. Whether aluminium, phenolic, even the clear plastic. At least I never noticed it."
> 
> I have to go along with Nick on this one, I too have made plates out of 3mm (about 1/8") Aluminium and even Bj could have stood on one foot on such plates without any significant bowing!
> I've often smiled whilst reading things that have been said on this forum regarding "bowing" of plates but haven't responded in case I could be considered controversial! Perhaps American Aluminium/plastics aren't as strong as Australian ones!


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

allthunbs said:


> Nick:
> 
> How do you make a baseplate? I would take the bolt pattern from the old baseplate (the manufacturer's original) but how do you get the centre hole lined up properly. I'm also trying to figure out how to do the "step" in the centre hole to allow for guides to be inserted.
> 
> ...



Bob already has excellent pictures showing how he made the hole for the OP template guides in a base plate.

I can not find the darn post can you please post the link for him again Bob? 

I submit if you can not quantify the difference between the cheap and expensive plates that there is no difference and get the cheap ones.

I may not be the neatest most precise person, but I never saw how a .001 hump or a little sag here or there could effect someones work. It doesn't mine. Some get so caught up in the table or plate being so perfectly flat it just makes me wonder if these same people ever get a project complete. A little hump or sag or gash in the plate usually is not a problem. At least not for me. Wood moves and changes you need to work around what you have in the material and the tools as well.

I once worked for a company called Level and Plumb. What I found out while working there is that nothing is ever exactly or perfectly level or plumb and definitely not flat, at least not for long.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Guys

Here's link to the post 

http://www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?p=89748#post89748

===========



nickao65 said:


> Bob already has excellent pictures showing how he made the hole for the OP template guides in a base plate.
> 
> I can not find the darn post can you please post the link for him again Bob?
> 
> ...


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

My philosophy is relatively simple. My product is so fraught with mistakes, I seek to eliminate any external influences so that errors are my own alone.

Allthunbs


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

allthunbs said:


> My philosophy is relatively simple. My product is so fraught with mistakes, I seek to eliminate any external influences so that errors are my own alone.
> 
> Allthunbs


Sounds like an excellent philosophy to me.
Skyglider


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

allthunbs said:


> My philosophy is relatively simple. My product is so fraught with mistakes, I seek to eliminate any external influences so that errors are my own alone.
> 
> Allthunbs


There are cultures in which one ALWAYS deliberately includes a flaw in their work so as not to try to compete with or imitate God.

Your philosophy is, from my perspective, absolutely spot on.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

There is no need to deliberately put a flaw in any of my work there is always one somewhere.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

Wood working the art of fixing errors  that we all make 

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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Yep ,I fix one mistake after another until I am complete.

Sometimes the mistakes turn into the best feature of the project!


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

nickao65 said:


> There is no need to deliberately put a flaw in any of my work there is always one somewhere.


Your statement certainly also applies to me. Read my signature line.


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

AllThumbs asked Nick

"but how do you get the centre hole lined up properly. I'm also trying to figure out how to do the "step" in the centre hole to allow for guides to be inserted."

Sorry to reply a question asked to someone else.

Easiest is to first buy a template guide with 1/2" outer diameter - if your collet is 1/2"

Mine template guides all have 60mm plates.
So route a 60mm rabet on the base plate and a though hole larger than 1/2".

Mount the 1/2' template guide upside down into the router collet. The base plate would now be centered.

Clamp the original base plate on top of it to mark & drill the screw holes. I would do the countersinking by hand to make it perfect.

To enlarge the center hold, take off the plate. Mount say a 1 1/2" bit Screw back the plate. Allign using the 1/2" template guide again and slowly plunge though.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Reuelt:



reuelt said:


> Sorry to reply a question asked to someone else.


It doesn't work like that here Reult. Any response is appreciated if directed to you or not. It works like this: If you read one book, you get one perspective. If you read a dozen books you get a dozen perspectives and thus can make up your own mind. Everyone contributes as is their experience and through such discussion we all learn.



reuelt said:


> Easiest is to first buy a template guide with 1/2" outer diameter - if your collet is 1/2"


1/2" template guide = 1 3/4" overall for a 1 1/2" countersink with a 1/2" protrusion and a 3/8" hole?



reuelt said:


> Mine template guides all have 60mm plates.
> So route a 60mm rabet on the base plate and a though hole larger than 1/2".


"60mm plates" does not compute?



reuelt said:


> Mount the 1/2' template guide upside down into the router collet. The base plate would now be centered.





reuelt said:


> Clamp the original base plate on top of it to mark & drill the screw holes. I would do the countersinking by hand to make it perfect.





reuelt said:


> To enlarge the center hold, take off the plate. Mount say a 1 1/2" bit Screw back the plate. Allign using the 1/2" template guide again and slowly plunge though.


Could you do a pictorial essay? (translation, send some pictures?)

Thanks for the help Reuelt.

Allthunbs


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

*How to make and allign shop made base plate*

Hi Allthumbs
I peceived that you were trying to make a base plate for some template guide set for your router and wish to find out how to centralise the baseplate.
(If I am wrong in my perception please correct me.

If you look at the diagram attached there are 4 dimensions A to D
In Australia & EU D = 60mm
In USA,Canada D= ?? 1 3/4" ?

What I said in the previous post was basically this.
In order to allign any baseplate, one way is to use a template bushing with B=1/2" (Outer Diameter)
the logic is that we have a 1/2" collet so if we can mount the template upside down so that the tube gets into the collet. When we tighten the collect, the bushing is centered.

Now to make the base plate you will need to know D = 

I would create a rebet with diameter D first on the base plate (square or round) and a rough through aperture (hole) > 1/2" from the center.

When I then mount the 1/2" template bushing upside down, I have centered the base plate D rebet with the collet.

At this point I would draw the base-plate shape using sharp marker round the router metal base.

With that I can allign the existing base plate with the marking to drill holes.
As I said in my previous post those screw holes need to be countersunk to take countersunk screws. I would do that manually so that there is no mistakes in the holes.

The actual through aperture can be cut out last. If you have a large (e.g. 1 1/2" diameter bit, you can slowing plunge the router bit though - after the base plate is mounted.
Or you can cut that aperture with a scroll saw and sand it. This aperture need not be 100% accurately centered.

After all is done you can always use the B=1/2 " template bushing to reallign your baseplate if necessary.


Wondered whether it helps.

Reuel


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