# Lock mitre router bit - custom angles



## radiohead (Oct 29, 2013)

Hello,

I require some information on lock mitre bits or suitable equivalents. What I am looking for is a bit that will produce a lock mitre joint at a specific angle. As far as I understand lock mitre bits are only available in 45 and 22.5 degree variations. Ideally I would like to find lock mitre bits that can cut to an angle of 10/100 degrees and 9/99 degrees.

If there are no suitable lock mitres available would anyone be able to suggest a alternative type of bit that would perform the same task?

I realise that I could have a custom bit(s) made however I would like to check first that there are no other solutions.

Thank you for your time.


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

I guess I missed your intro. Welcome to the forum.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Hello and welcome to the forum. Jay

Would mind explaining what you are trying to do with these bits?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Jay, when bits are not available at an angle you desire then go with a tilting table top, jig or router in a tilting base.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, Jay.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

5-Pc Chamfer Bit Set

1 PC Shutter Base Architectural Molding C Router Bit | eBay

4pc 1 2" SH 1" Cutting Depth 45° 30° 22 5° and 15° Chamfer Router Bit Set | eBay

MLCS Horizontal Router Table

=


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You could also cut the angles on a table saw and use biscuits. Much cheaper in the long run if you plan on a lot of different angles.


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## radiohead (Oct 29, 2013)

Hello everyone, 

Thank you for your welcome. I am in the business of making stave drum shells (i.e. the musical kind). Stave drums comprise of a number of identical segments with beveled edges glued together to make a polygon. This polygon is then taken down to a nice smooth circle through a combination of custom jigs and hard sanding graft.

Up until now I have been successfully producing drums with just flat edge to edge joints and whilst they are strong enough, when the drum head is tensioned over the shell the joints tend to move only ever so slightly. This isn't a problem with the structural integrity or function of the drum but it is just a shame that after I have spent so much time and effort sanding it through the grits until I have a lovely finish that I end up with a drum that once tensioned you can feel the joints so to speak.

I now want to produce my drums with a better joining method that will make the drum even stronger and will stop it from moving the slight amount it does, hence preserving all of my finishing work.

You are probably things that I could just use thicker stock and use a 22.5 to make an octagon. I could do this however there are two problems with this, you would end up wasting a lot of stock which would also take longer and also most importantly to me the number of staves (8) in the drum wouldn't match up to the number of lugs* that I require (usually 10) and hence the lug placement would look odd and un-uniform, which is something I defiantly do not want.

So the best number of staves that does not waste too much stock and has a uniform relationship to the lugs for a 10 lug drum would be 20 staves, one lug every two staves. In order to work out the angle of bevel needed for a 20 stave drum you divide 360 by 20 which gives you 18 degrees then halve that to find the angle of bevel need to each side of an individual stave, leaving you with 9 degrees.

Currently I am using a 9 degree dovetail bit however as I say I would like to find a lock mitre or similar equivalent. 

The closest thing I have found bit wise at the moment is a Sommerfeld angle making set which features 11.25, 15, 22.5 and 45 degree lock mitre bits. I would be able to use the 11.25 to create a 16 stave drum which would work with 8 lugs uniformly so that would be useful. 

But I would really like to be able to do 9 and 10 degrees, 10 degrees would allow me to do 18 staves and hence 6 lugs (one lug every three staves).

-

I like the idea of tilting tables, that had occurred to me however I had no idea to where to find one so thank you. I have recently ordered a new router table anyway so it would be best if there were some tilting tables that were designed to be used with existing tables, does anyone know of such a thing. I would rather not build my own tilting table as I don't have a decent enough table saw/other tools to do so. I would rather purchase a ready made product, that I can rely on.

*Lugs, for those of you who do not know, are the usually chrome fittings you see on drums that hold the hold the tension lugs over the rims. 

Thank you for your help.

Jay


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## radiohead (Oct 29, 2013)

I just posted a rather large reply and a screen appeared for a split second which I think said my post needed to be approved my a moderator?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Yes, until you reach 10 posts there are triggers which send a post to the moderation que for approval.

MLCS sells horizontal router tables with an option to get a tilting top for under $200.


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## radiohead (Oct 29, 2013)

I have seen them, they look great however the fact that the router is mounted horizontal to the table presents a problem. The optional tilt would go the opposite direction to that of which I needed in order to make a 45 or 22.5 degree bit produce a 9 or 10 degree cut. That is if my thinking is correct.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Jay, don't over think this. Use a straight bit and tilt the table to the degree you want.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Have you thought about cutting a groove for a spline joint? In a way, the lock miter makes a version of a spline.


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## radiohead (Oct 29, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Have you thought about cutting a groove for a spline joint? In a way, the lock miter makes a version of a spline.


Would you be able to elaborate a little on what you mean please?


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## radiohead (Oct 29, 2013)

I think I know what you mean with regards to the spline joint now, that sounds like it may well work. I would cut my chamfer first as normal and then slot either side. The only problem I see now is how to angle the stock correctly on edge when running it through a sloter. Besides making one can any one think of the best thing to use a an angled sliding sled to attach my stock to at the desired angle whilst I slot it?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

A good biscuit joiner will handle any angle and a biscuit is a type of spline. I have the Porter Cable and it is one of the most adjustable. An adjustable angle sled will allow you to route a groove for a full length spline. I like this type spline joint because you can use a contrasting colour wood and it looks really nice. You can also use a table saw to cut splines for any angle to 45 degrees. You might need to add a sacrificial face onto your fence that is a little taller than your fence for better stability depending on your segment width. A regular blade will cut a 1/8" groove, a dado set will cut other widths. There are lots of choices available for getting the job done.


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