# Beginner to routing: Reaching desired depth



## djlank9 (Mar 23, 2017)

I am brand new to routing and have what is likely a simple question for the experienced but has been stumping me. 

I have a 1.5" board serving as the top of a sofa table. I accidentally cut the top board a couple mm wider than the frame of the table and figured that rather than disassembly and recutting, this would be the perfect excuse to try out my new router. 

My understanding is that I need to make a few passes until the bearing finally lands on the frame below the top piece and then use that to make a perfect flush. However, I simply do not seem to be able to get the bearing past the 1.5" mark. I'm using a Ridgid 5.5 Amp Corded Compact Router with a 1/4" router shank flush trim bit (the one that came with it). I just measured the max depth of the bit as it currently sits and it is just barely over an inch. I am inserting the shank all the way into the collet and pulling out just a bit as I've seen in the instructional videos. Is this just a matter of me pulling the shank farther out to reach the depth? Just worry of the danger that could be caused when it allowed out further from the grip of the collet. 

I do plan to return the router in favor of a two handle one as I think this is a better bet for someone with zero experience, but I'm guessing that in and of itself won't solve the problem of reaching my desired depth. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Hello and welcome to the router forum.
You need to buy a longer flush trim bit the trouble you have a 1/4" shank router, I do not believe you can buy a bit much longer unless you have a 1/2" shank capable router,
I would use a double bearing router bit but same problem do not Believe if you get them In 1/4" shanks
You said you where going take the router back why not get a router that except 1/2"and 1/4" collets


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Welcome to the forum...great question.

The Ridgid compact and available 1/4 inch shaft bits will not likely reach 1 1/2 inches deep. And you are right to be concerned about not having enough shaft in the collett. Some will advise installing it to at least 80% of the shaft length. Ideally, place the bit into the collett until it bottoms and then lift it out slightly so the collett can be effective. You will need something in a 1/2" shank. You will likely also need something of an edge guide to cut a little off at a time until the bearing hits whatever you are using as an edge guide. The bearing alone will not yield a straight cut unless it rests on something that is straight (edge guide, template, another board, etc...)

There's nothing wrong with keeping that router as you will find many uses for it in the future but you should get yourself a good 2+ HP router.

Many folks on the site will recommend the Bosch 1617 plunge and fixed base kit (1617 EVSPK)...I have both the Ridgid and the 1617 and like them both....no problems with either.

The Ridgid will have a lifetime service warranty and the customer service at Bosch is second to none...


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## djlank9 (Mar 23, 2017)

Thank you both very much for your responses. I am glad to see I wasn't missing something as obvious as making sure the plug was in the wall. Semipro, actually this one does apparently accept both 1/4" and 1/2" collets. It just came with the 1/4" bit so I started with that. I was under the impression 1/4" and 1/2" bits had the same length with the difference only between in the width of the bit itself, but this makes more sense now.

Nick, I think I will end up with this router in the future; however, funds are limited so I figured if I am going to have only one for now it would be a better idea to get one that offers a bit more flexibility and has the capability of being mounted. In essence I want to get all of the basics down and then in the near future add onto my set with a compact trim router. I am planning on going with the multiple base Bosch 1617 at the moment, but I will look into the Ridgid as well. Thank you for the advice on the straight edge, I did find my attempts were uneven so I will have to grab that for practice before taking it to the main piece. 

Thank you both again, this site is great and has a lot more traffic than I was expecting so I look forward to learning from the community and one day getting to the point of being able to offer my own advice.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Best of luck with your project...jump right in on any thread...it'll be fun...

BTW...fill out your profile so we can call you by your name...makes it more personal than "N/A"...


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## djlank9 (Mar 23, 2017)

Took the advice in your sig and doing that right now. Thanks!


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

@djlank9 - Welcome to the forum - you'll enjoy it here. I think getting a larger router is the right decision, but my question: is the bearing on your current bit at the shank end or the tip?


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum David.


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## djlank9 (Mar 23, 2017)

Vince, the bearing is on the tip. To make sure I'm understanding your question perfectly, it is on the opposite end of the bit from the shank.


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## djlank9 (Mar 23, 2017)

Thanks Ross, and good to see people follow the sig in John's posts since I am not used to being able to see people's names in community forums. Nice to be here, you guys are great!


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

djlank9 said:


> Vince, the bearing is on the tip. To make sure I'm understanding your question perfectly, it is on the opposite end of the bit from the shank.


David - you had called it a "flush trim bit" (correctly so) and I just wanted to make sure we were talking about that and not a pattern bit, so thanks for the clarification. In that event, all the previous suggestions hold true. And you can't go wrong with the Bosch 1617 - I have one (as do a lot of members here) and it's a great router.


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## billyjim (Feb 11, 2012)

Welcome to the forum David. This is a great place to hang out. Another vote here for the Bosch 1617...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I don't have any advice and will leave it to the pros , but welcome to the forum David .


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Hi David and welcome. You can get some flush trim bits at least to 2" of cutting length but only in 1/2" shank. There is too much torque and vibration in a 1/4" shank for that length as mentioned already. If you have the capacity to run 1/2" bits, you should try to stick with that size as much as possible.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Welcome David. I wish when I started I had a place like this to learn from the pros. When I started there was no internet. :crying: Your way ahead when you joined here.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Welcome aboard. I have a pair of the 1617's. They work great. A longer flush trim bit will do the trick. You need to make sure the actual cutters are long enough to trim your work piece.

How much overhang? If it is a lot, you could trim some with a circular saw and a guide that you very carefully set up. I would hate to know you took my advice and then ruined your project.

Here's some info on the Bosch.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

If I read and understood your post correctly, the piece is a fraction long. if that is so, you might consider buying a good block plane. One thing I use it for is to make very light trims on slightly long pieces to shave the length just right. This is a hand tool you will use fairly often, so get a good one and look up YouTube videos on tuning up and sharpening a block plane. I would pop for a good one to start with, Veritas, Lie Neilson, modest priced Wood River. You will also want to get a two sided diamond sharpening stone. There are hundreds of uses for a block plane and often you can do a job with it in far less time than it takes to set up a power tool.

The main reason I'm such a block plane fan is that it is really easy to take a 1mm too long piece 1mm to short using a power tool--Guess how I know that?

I'm a Bosch 1617 EVSPK fan, have two of them, plus a small trim router. Wonderful tool. 

By the way, welcome. This is a really helpful bunch.

The picture is of a Veritas, which often needs very little tuning up to work. Here's a link to a YouTube video on its use: 




Here's a video on tuning up (sharpening, flattening) a block plane.


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## djlank9 (Mar 23, 2017)

That is an interesting point. I ended up purchasing the Bosch 1617 based on reviews here and the fact that a lot of the folks here have them already. Figured it would be easier to get advice here if I'm using the same tool. My next purchase will be block plane, though after doing some searches there is a wide world of them with polarized reviews on anything below the high end planes. Thank you for the embedded videos as well!


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## djlank9 (Mar 23, 2017)

MT Stringer said:


> Welcome aboard. I have a pair of the 1617's. They work great. A longer flush trim bit will do the trick. You need to make sure the actual cutters are long enough to trim your work piece.
> 
> How much overhang? If it is a lot, you could trim some with a circular saw and a guide that you very carefully set up. I would hate to know you took my advice and then ruined your project.
> 
> Here's some info on the Bosch.


Essentially I suppose it would be 1.5" overhang since I am trying to get one 2x4 board flush with another one. Don't worry about me ruining a project though as my assumption is I will screw it up the first couple of attempts. So my plan is to use some scrap wood pieces until I can get everything right and then move to the actual project piece. Since I've started working with new tools I've come to truly love scrap wood!


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## djlank9 (Mar 23, 2017)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Hi David and welcome. You can get some flush trim bits at least to 2" of cutting length but only in 1/2" shank. There is too much torque and vibration in a 1/4" shank for that length as mentioned already. If you have the capacity to run 1/2" bits, you should try to stick with that size as much as possible.


I agree and will be sticking to 1/2" bits since it sounds like they are easier to work with and should make cleaner cuts. Your sig line is great too, just watched a video on youtube of how to clean up woodworking mistakes and it was very informative.

Not allowed to include a link due to lack of 10 posts, but it is called "Fixing Common Woodworking Mistakes" and the publisher is "The Wood Whisperer"


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