# Wiring a Homebuilt Router Table



## BigWorm2005GT (Jul 11, 2007)

Good evening, all. New user, first post, so hello to all!

Now, to my question. I am in the process of building the router table described in Bill Hylton's excellent book *Woodworking with the Router*. I'm actually proceeding very well and am having a lot of fun building it. But I have a problem. I have no electrical training, and while I want to wire in the switched outlets that are described in this (and other) router table plans I've seen, I don't know how. Does anyone have a schematic or other diagram that can show me how to wire this up properly without electrocuting myself?  

Additionally, if anyone knows of a good two-button pushbutton on/off switch, that would be great, too. I've seen the Rockler one (with the throw-type switch and the outlet on the front), but I'd really like the peace of mind of a "green on, red off" two button type.

Any help would be great! I've been lurking here for a while, readin up on your previous words of wisdom, but could not find anything on point here. Thanks in advance for your assistance!

BW


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi BW

Here's a PDF that will show many ways to wire it up..

Hope it helps.. 

--------------

I did rework the picture just a bit  9:36 PM


----------



## BigWorm2005GT (Jul 11, 2007)

Bob,

Close! The first diagram on the second page looks like what I want to do, but it lists the outlets coming out of the home breaker panel. I would guess that replace that portion with (a) an inline power switch of some kind, and (b) instead of going into a breaker I'd have a power cord with a standard three prong at the end to plug into a wall outlet. I'd guess the switch would go on the white/black lines going from source to the first outlet in series.

Do I have that about right? Thanks for the diagram, that clears up about 90% of my confusion!


----------



## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

BigWorm2005GT said:


> Bob,
> 
> Close! The first diagram on the second page looks like what I want to do, but it lists the outlets coming out of the home breaker panel. I would guess that replace that portion with (a) an inline power switch of some kind, and (b) instead of going into a breaker I'd have a power cord with a standard three prong at the end to plug into a wall outlet. I'd guess the switch would go on the white/black lines going from source to the first outlet in series.
> 
> Do I have that about right? Thanks for the diagram, that clears up about 90% of my confusion!


Hi BW:

_The diagram that Bob provided is not quite correct. Looking at the front of the outlets, with the longer blade (Neutral) on the right side, the grounding pins would be at the top (not at the bottom as shown.) Going by the long blade-short blade arrangement (ignoring the position of the grounding pins), the wiring as shown is correct._

In your case, you want to replace the toggle switch with an industrial-styled on-off pushbutton station. I would suggest you check the industrial catalogues, such as Allen Bradley. You might stop in at an industrial electrical supply shop and ask them on which switches are suitable.

For the wiring, some points to keep in mind:

1. The switch goes in the LIVE (black) line only. NEVER place a switch in the NEUTRAL (white) line. NEVER place a switch in the GROUND (green or bare) line.

2. The NEUTRAL (white) wire on your cord should go directly to the outlet(s). The NEUTRAL connection on the outlets are the longer of the two blades.

3. The LIVE (black) wire should go to the switch. From the other side of the switch, run a black wire to the live side of the outlets. On the outlets, the LIVE (black) wire should go to the shorter of the two blades.

4. !! Remember !! to ground all devices through their grounding screws. 

5. If you use a metal box to mount the switch and outlets in, the ground (green) wire should go the box's grounding screw.

6. The diagrams on page 2 of the PDF diagrams are for GFCI wiring. GFCI outlets have special wiring requirements, to ensure proper protection. If you are going to use GFCI outlets, use the first diagram on page 2, but add a switch in the black line from the panel to the first outlet. To answer your question, replace the panel in the diagram with an electrical cord, keeping the same configuration of wires. (GFCI = Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter)

Hope this helps,
Cassie
Electrical Engineer (Ontario, Canada)


----------



## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

BigWorm2005GT,


*W e l c o m e . . A b o a r d !!​*


----------



## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

BigWorm2005GT said:


> Good evening, all. New user, first post, so hello to all!
> 
> Now, to my question. I am in the process of building the router table described in Bill Hylton's excellent book *Woodworking with the Router*. I'm actually proceeding very well and am having a lot of fun building it. But I have a problem. I have no electrical training, and while I want to wire in the switched outlets that are described in this (and other) router table plans I've seen, I don't know how. Does anyone have a schematic or other diagram that can show me how to wire this up properly without electrocuting myself?
> 
> ...


Hi BW...

First of all, you always want to switch the Black wire... Now, if you don't know what I mean by that, BUY a switch.

I don't know what Rockler sw. you're talking about, BUT this is their new designed switch... Same as the other Red / Green button sw. except a flapper / paddle has been added to make it easier to turn it off; otherwise identical! I always like to get them On Sale... have no idea when this NEW one will go on sale. It is a GOOD switch.

I was doing what you are doing one day... then I saw this sw. on sale for $15, which was cheaper than buying the parts and wiring them together!! So I bought the sw...!! Works great... and it's alot easier to install too!!

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401

Good Luck...


----------



## BigWorm2005GT (Jul 11, 2007)

@ Cassie & Joe,

Thanks very much. I was mistaken about the manufacturer of the switch I had seen, it is found on MLCS's website under Router Accessories (tried to post the page, but I can't for some reason).

Anyway, to your more on-point posts, yes, that's exactly the type of information I need. So, the switch then simply goes in-line on the live (BLACK) side, between the input source and the first outlet, I have that right? That way, when thrown, it applies or kills power to all outlets downstream?

I may just get that paddle switch you pointed out, Joe. It looks as though that big stop sign can be removed, or I could redesign the layout of that part of the cabinet to accomodate it.

Thanks very much as always!

BW


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Here's what I did..

I used a heavy duty extention cord and stripped 4-5" off about 9" from the female plug..
Then I folded and stuck the stripped portion into my switch recepticle..
Next, I cut the BLACK wire in 2 and connected those to my switch..
I plug the one end into the wall, and my router into the female end..


----------



## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

BigWorm2005GT said:


> Anyway, to your more on-point posts, yes, that's exactly the type of information I need. So, the switch then simply goes in-line on the live (BLACK) side, between the input source and the first outlet, I have that right? That way, when thrown, it applies or kills power to all outlets downstream?


Hi BW:

Yes, you are correct. 

You are welcome, good buddy.

Cassie


----------



## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

BigWorm2005GT said:


> @ Cassie & Joe,
> I may just get that paddle switch you pointed out, Joe. It looks as though that big stop sign can be removed, or I could redesign the layout of that part of the cabinet to accomodate it.
> 
> Thanks very much as always!
> ...


BW, yes, the paddle is very easily removed... just pull out at the hinge points & it should come off and leave you with the same switch they used to sell... With that little 'paddle', they can call it a "SAFETY" sw. and charge MORE for it!  

I wish they had just sold the paddle as an optional piece & let it be our choice instead of theirs.   But, you know how that goes... 

Oh, you won't be able to post links & pics until you've posted 10 times... It's a spam control measure taken with new members... After 10 posts, you can do it!! So, if you want to speed it up a tad... Just post, even if it's to sal "HI" to someone! :sold:


----------



## BigWorm2005GT (Jul 11, 2007)

Thanks for the confirmation, guys. Construction continues, and I should have the carcase completed by tomorrow afternoon. Then I can use it in "barebones" appearance to complete the other parts, like the fronts for the bit drawers and such.

I've almost worked up the courage to try the wiring. It looks simple on paper, just hope that I can do as good a job in real life. I understand the concepts, but it is still a daunting prospect. I know my limits wel enough to where if I get to a place where I don't feel safe, I'm stopping and asking a pro for advice.

Thanks again for everyone's help!

BW


----------



## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

I see on your profile that you are into drag racing and scuba diving. Both of those require a lot more technical ability than wiring a switch or outlet. 
You should have no trouble. 

For one thing - most switches and outlets you will find are essentially color coded.
(someone may have already mentioned this)
Black wires go to 'brass' colored screws, white wires go to 'silver' colored screws and the bare ground wire goes to the green screws.

I have to second what Joe said, though. Unless you just WANT to wire one yourself for the experience - or because it fits the look of your table better --- you aren't saving THAT much money over a ready made switch -- especially if you count your time as valuable.

Paul


----------



## BigWorm2005GT (Jul 11, 2007)

Paul,

Thanks for the response. Yeah, I know, but I tend to approach things I haven't done before with almost an overload of preparation. That way, I'm in for as few surprises as I can prepare for.

And yes, this is mostly for my own experience. It's a great opportunity to learn or practice many things... Joinery techniques, complex structuring, wiring, working with MDF, dovetailing... Time is valuable, you are absolutely right, but I count time spent learning something new or practicing something I already know but could be better as time very well spent.

Thanks for the words of wisdom, though, I do appreciate it.

BW


----------



## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

BigWorm2005GT said:


> . . . And yes, this is mostly for my own experience. It's a great opportunity to learn or practice many things... I count time spent learning something new or practicing something I already know but could be better as time very well spent.


*I couldn't agree more.*
Wasn't trying to discourage you at all from building your own -
- just laying out options.

My next project is building my own table as well -- and more than one salesman has pointed out to me that by the time I buy all the various components I could have bought a perfectly good table -- in fact - Rockler had one on sale lonline ast week for LESS than I have already spent.
But I gave them essentially the same speech you gave me ----

*There is just a DIFFERENCE -- when you can say -- I made it myself.*


----------



## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Hey BW, you have 5 more posts to go when you will be allowed to include pictures and links...

I expect you to reply "OK, will do." to this post...  

If you're going to wire the switch, etc. yourself, you should also have an Ohm Meter or Multimeter to check the wiring out before you give it the "Smoke & Fire Test". 

Harbor Frt. has a cheap digital multimeter on sale for around $2-$3 now & then... still cheap & good Off Sale.

If you don't know how to use one, it's really simple...
Turn a Selector knob to Resistance / Ohms... and there will be various other scales present... choose the one with the lowest scale.

It has a couple of test leads, usually Red (+) & Black (-).

If you put the two ends together, meaning Short, you will see a reading on the meter. If you don't get a reading, there is NO Short.

Place the leads at various places, check for readings or no readings... with the switch flipped ON then OFF to see different reading happen, etc.

It will tell you whether or not the circuit is as you want it to be...

It beats blowing fuses / breakers and seeing sparks fly!!  

Take care.


----------



## LeeC (Apr 19, 2006)

I have a somewhat different solution to your wiring. I mounted a duplex metal electrical box on the side of my table so that I could install a switch and outlet. I took a heaby extension cord and connected the black wire to one side of the switch and a jumper wire from the other side of the switch to the gold terminal on the outlet. I connected the white wire to the silver terminal on the outlet and the ground to the box. This allows me to plug in my router to the outlet on the table. If necessary, now I can move the table and plug the extension cord in to another wall outlet. I found the with a 3 HP router you need to use 20 amp rated switches and outlets after having a couple of the 15 amp ones fail. This way I dont have to hunt for the switch on the router every time I want to turn it off. If I am going to change a bit, then I turn off both switches, or unplug the router. The wiring is really quite easy after you do it for a few years. Have fun with it.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Lee, I hope that when you use the plunge router you, without thinking, check that it's switch is OFF, this is a very important habit to cultivate. Happy and safe routing.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Drugstore Cowboy said:


> My next project is building my own table as well -- and more than one salesman has pointed out to me that by the time I buy all the various components I could have bought a perfectly good table


I can't agree with that.. The cabinet I built cost:
1 sheet of 1/2 baltic birch ply - $24.50
1 2x4x3/4 MDF - $2 from the HD bargain rack
4 wheels $16
1 piano hinge cut in half $7
2 door clasps $3
Already had the insert and switch box.

Total $52


----------



## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

AxlMyk said:


> . . . Already had the insert and switch box.
> 
> Total $52
> http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/axlmyks-stuff/6446-router-table-cabinet-sunp0027s.jpg
> Click to Enlarge


_Ahhh -- but there is the key ---_
You _'already had'_ two of the most expensive components.
If you add $40 for the insert and $15 for the switch you are up to $107.

The Rockler table I referred to was a benchtop model on sale --- for $60

That's about what I have invested - about $30 wood for the top and base -
I bought the T-track system from Rockler on sale for $11.
(no - not a must have - but at that price hard to resist) and and $12 for the replacement rings for the insert. (I'm mounting both the router and the rings directly to the top.) Haven't decided which way to go on the switch -
I'll buy the ready made one IF I can find it on sale for $15.
I already have all the finish, screws and other misc. things needed - but I figure if I had to go buy them that would be about another $10
Making my total cost about $80
So you and I are in the same ballpark.

OH -- lest you think I am arguing with you -- which I am not 
-- I didn't agree with the salesmen either 
(I WAS one for 20+ years I know what's real information and what's a pitch)
---
If I HAD bought a ready made one -- the one I would have wanted was closer to $300.


----------



## BigWorm2005GT (Jul 11, 2007)

Let's see...

Sheet of 4x8 birch plywood: $25
Sheet of 2x4 plywood: $12
2 sheets of 1/2" MDF: $12
One 8"x11' hardwood plank: $25
Hinges (big and small): $20
Drawer knobs: $10
Casters: $16
Electrical stuff: $20

Total: $140

Already have: Sacrificial extension cord

This does not take into account the extra wood I'll have to purchase to build the drawers. I consider those optional for the moment, and will make them once I have a dovetailing jig. But this is enough to complete the bit drawers, utility compartment, and router compartment with front doors.

And of course...

Satisfaction of saying "Yes, I built that...": Priceless!

Pictures will follow once complete and I'm at ten posts. Wiring will be done hopefully by week's end; I'll post pictures of the completed unit when it's done. Thanks again for everyone's help!

BW


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi BW

I need to shop where you shop, some great prices 
Where do you shop for your lumber ?

Bj


----------



## BigWorm2005GT (Jul 11, 2007)

Home Depot is having a sale where I live. 4x8 sheets of birch plywood for $25, poplar plywood is $33. I just made two bookcases out of that, and have another sheet in the garage for a third. As long as the lumber and prices holds out, I'll keep going there.


----------

