# Removing rust



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Cast iron has the nasty habit of rusting at the first hint of moisture. People who met here before the ISS event saw my HF 6" rabbeting jointer covered in rust; I had it out one night and a storm doused it. I envisioned spending hours to remove the rust. I tested the Trend Tool & Bit cleaner at the ISS event and was surprised by how well it cleaned up the bits and router. I decided to give it a try. I removed the fence and sprayed the table, let it sit for about two minutes and then gave it a good rub down with a ScotchBrite scouring pad. I wiped it off with a towel to see how much more I needed to do and was shocked to see a clean shining surface. I didn't think to look at the clock before I started or take photos but that was something I could remedy with the fence. I snapped two before photo's. I sprayed the fence and let it sit for just a minute then used the ScotchBrite pad and wiped it down. Total time: 4 minutes! See the results for yourself. Trend Tool & Bit cleaner is now a permanent addition to my shop. Cost is about $12 a bottle.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Mike, if I remember correctly according to the Youtube video it is supposed to inhibit the return of the rust. I am curious if it will do that also. Maybe an update down the road on how well it does that? In the meantime I will be looking for some.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Chuck, you can purchase this from Woodcraft and yes I will post updates on how long it lasts.


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## crowie (Apr 14, 2011)

That's an amazing result you got Mike, thank you.
Looks like a great product to have in ones kit.
Do you know if their's an Australian distrubitor, please?
Cheers from Down Under, crowie


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Peter, I am not sure about Trend distributors in Oz. HarrySin could tell you; I will try to tear him away from his TV to answer.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Very cool Mike - I had already seen some demos of that on YouTube, it looks like some very cool stuff. I'll grab some at WoodCraft and give it a try. Thanks for the info!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Whoop!! I _can_ get it here!!!  (no pun intended)
Search Results : KMS Tools & Equipment from Vancouver BC, Selling quality tools at affordable prices all over Canada. Largest powertool, handtool and woodworking machinery retailer in Canada.

Thanks Mike!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Is this of some help: Trend Machinery & Cutting Tools Ltd

It's a miracle Mike, how about a shot or two after you've sprayed the stand!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I put the fence back on this morning Harry. I really like this product... you can see the reflection of the blade guard.


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## czapr (May 11, 2012)

I have an unhealthy, according to my wife, attraction for Stanley planes. I found Evapo Rust at Tractor Supply. It requires submerging the rusted parts in a container, but I've used it on larger parts using a towel and plastic bag. This stuff is safe for ungloved hands and no harmful fumes, supposed to be biodegradeable. Takes a rusted 100 year old plane back to unrusted iron. Unfortunately it won't fill in the pits. Costs around $30 a gallon, but you can use it over and over.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

That's an AMAZING transformation!! Just spray, wait, and wipe.... sounds a whole lot easier than my method of WD40 and Scotchbrite pads.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Brian, it does require some light scouring with a ScotchBrite pad but it is lightning fast. I tried using WD-40 and a pad to remove rust from another tool and it was taking forever.

PS: Next time you set a soft drink on my jointer I am going to smile and point to the Tool & Bit cleaner. :jester:


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

This looks great and I was ready to try some, but shipping costs for the $11.99 bottle are $7.50. Guess I'll have wait until I can find some locally. Bummer.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Oliver, use the store locater on the web site and see if there is a retail store near you.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

I had some rust come up on my new band saw table. It was very fresh, just a couple of days. (I'd been hedging on getting real protection, I'm new to cast iron tables. Live - learn) Anyway best I had available was Simple Green Concentrate spray and a scotch bright pad. I sprayed the table well, laid the pad down, and covered it with my RO palm sander. Worked it for a few minutes and wiped it down. Two such treatments did in the rust completely and I covered it with some 3in1 oil till I could get something more permanent.

Point being Simple Green 'will' get rid of new rust with a little encouragement. I've learned my lesson though. It much easier just to prevent it in the first place.

GCG


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## crowie (Apr 14, 2011)

Thank you Harry & Mike...
I've sent an email to the "contact us" on website asking for the Aussie distrubitor.
Cheers, crowie


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## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

I am impressed.

But not to out-do-you, I spent $ 11.89 on Three items. Norton (the sand paper manufacturer) #1 Synthetic Steel Wool, "0" Fine Steel wool, & "00" Finer Steel Wool.

I will send photos of my Combination Square that I cleaned up.

ps- I have to shrink the photos to under 3 MB ? Am I correct ?


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## crowie (Apr 14, 2011)

crowie said:


> Thank you Harry & Mike...
> I've sent an email to the "contact us" on website asking for the Aussie distrubitor.
> Cheers, crowie


Yes they replied & I've purchased a bottle but with postage from Melbourne to the Lower Blue Mountains it cost me nearly A$50.
I'm hoping to attack the machinery next week after the Sydney "Working With Wood & Timber show.
Cheers, crowie


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## Ben I (May 21, 2010)

Roger -

I subscribe to a CD series of wood working tutorials put out by Woodworker's Journal. On a disc labelled Tricks of the trade Volume 1 is a presentation of a way to remove rust on smaller items by placing them in a water / Baking soda solution and passing current from a small auto battery charger though the solution. 

The tutorial give a detailed step by step procedure of the electrical hook-up and the establishment of the sacrificial anode.

The only materials required are: a five gallon plastic pail, a battery charger, a piece of scrape steel for the Anode and baking soda. 

I have used this method to de-rust some antique hunting knives. The method works very well.


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## bosox (Jun 12, 2012)

Anyone here familiar of the electrolysis solution used for removing rust?


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Mike, any update on how it holds up over time?


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## Ben I (May 21, 2010)

bosox said:


> Anyone here familiar of the electrolysis solution used for removing rust?


Good Morning Jack

While I can't do complete justice to the previously referenced CD, Here are the basics:

Get a Plastic 5 gallon pail (not metal ).

Make up a solution of baking soda and water. Use 1 tablespoon baking soda per gallon of water. Cold water is OK, but warm water is better.

Get a piece of expendable steel for the Anode. Tutorial suggests an old baking sheet or an disposable circular saw blade. The greater the anode area the better the results will be. Assuming you're using a baking sheet, bend the sheet to conform to the inside of the pail. Hook up a wire to your anode (baking sheet). This will be in-turn hooked to the positive lead from your battery charger.

Hook up a second wire to the tool to be de-rusted. This wire will be eventually consumed, so use a disposable wire. this wire will be connected to the negative battery charger lead.

Suspend your de-rusting target in the solution. Ensure that it does not touch the anode (which would create a short circuit)

Turn on your battery charger. Home battery chargers commonly come with two amperage ratings. Use the ten amp range.

If all goes well you will see bubbles forming and rust debris floating. Depending on the extent of rust it could take several hours of even over night to clean your target completely down to bare metal.

SAFETY

USE RUBBER GLOVES AS SOLUTION IS SLIGHTLY CAUSTIC.

NEVER MAKE OR BREAK AN WIRING CONNECTION WITH THE BATTERY CHARGER ON. START AND STOP THE ELECTRICAL CHARGING PROCESS BY PLUGGING OR UNPLUGGING THE BATTERY CHARGER FROM THE WALL OUTLET. THE BUBBLES ARE HYDROGEN. EVEN SO, IF THE PROCESS IS DONE REMOTELY FROM ANY SOURCE OF SPARKING IT SHOULD BE SAFE.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

bosox said:


> Anyone here familiar of the electrolysis solution used for removing rust?


1 tablespoon of Arm and Hammer *washing soda* per 1 gallon of water.
Works better than baking soda, and is not caustic. You can dump it out on the lawn.
A 12v battery charger that has a manual mode.


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## Ben I (May 21, 2010)

mike 

Thanks for the diagram and the tip about the washing soda.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Chris, sadly yes. While the Tool and Bit cleaner does a great job removing rust it does not protect well against it reforming when soaked with water. My jointer got doused in another rain storm so it is time to repeat the process. You can bet dollars to donuts that this time I will get a good coat of Johnsons paste wax on it when I am done. Most people will not need to move their tools outside to have room to work inside so this should not happen to them. My saw table still looks very good since it was not subject to the rain. As long as your tool is kept under a roof there should be no problems.


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

Mike said:


> Chuck, you can purchase this from Woodcraft and yes I will post updates on how long it lasts.


*Mike* - thanks for the 'testimonial' - always looking for better rust removal and protection, although moisture has not been a big issue in my basement shop - just put in a Woodcraft order which included a can of the Trend product! Dave


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## bosox (Jun 12, 2012)

Ben, I appreciate the very thorough procedure you’ve posted. I assume I can do it now myself. I will give it a try. I have a question for you. What if I accidentally contact my bare hands to the solution, will there be any charges or side effects I will be feeling?


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## Ben I (May 21, 2010)

Jack

As with any accidental contract with mild acid or basic solution, a little soap and water quickly applied will take care of it. I assume that somewhere along the line you have used paint stripper. If you make accidental contact with it just quickly wash it off.

The baking soda solution discussed is really not that concentrated to be greatly concerned about.


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## Rayl (Nov 15, 2010)

*Evapo-rust Testimonial*

All,
I use Evaporust extensively for rust removal on planes & saw plates. It's amazing how well it removes decades of rust accumulation. You all know what saws from the flea market can look like, but after soaking in E-R overnight and using scotch-brite pads they look great. What surprizes me every time that I am cleaning a tool is how quickly the "flash" rust appears on the newly exposed metal, keep your can of WD-40 handy! As CZPAR mentioned on page 1, it doesn't cure the divots or pinholes, but HEY: the tool is nearly a hundred years old! E-R will eventually lose it's power, but my five gallon pail has lasted nearly 3 years and I don't know how many planes/saw-plates/wrenches have been cleaned with it.
Cheers
Ray


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## steamfab (Jun 22, 2012)

That is fast! I might have to try that one. Thanks for sharing.


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## PRDarnell (Mar 21, 2012)

Regarding the electrolysis method, you can find a number of good webpages by looking for "baking soda electrolysis rust removal". The one I like best, because I like to read, is at Rust Removal Using Electrolysis.


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## rtacabinet (Apr 23, 2014)

I think galvanization is the best way to protect from rusting. It not only made your tools rust proof but also made then tough against weather conditions wear and tear


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## Brucevan (Nov 14, 2014)

*rust removal*

Thanks for the info. I am restoring an old King Sealy that I really don't want to bead blast. I'll give this a try first.


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