# Router fence hints please



## Kristian (Jun 23, 2008)

Hi there
I´m new here and I am building my self a roter table,
but I don´t know the best way the make router fence

Does anyone have a good hints to me ?
My table is quit big it´s 1200 mm (47,24") long or (wide) 
and 800mm (31,50") deep 

Kristian (Sweden)


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Kristian, fences are made in different ways depending on how you intend to use them. Bob and Rick from the Router Workshop say: "Keep it simple" and that makes sense to me. One of the best fences is a piece of HDPE (High Density Polyethylene) that would measure 40 MM x 50 MM x the depth of your table. This would be held in place with C clamps. When routing it is a good idea to push your wood away from you with the fence to the right of the bit. To create a clearance pocket for the bit you clamp the rear of the fence to the table, then slowly swing the fence into the bit going just a little further than you need for adjustment. This method provides good clean cuts. You can do the same thing with a good piece of hardwood, but the plastic lets your material glide smoothly.


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## andrewmo (Oct 24, 2005)

Like Mike says a piece of wood or plastic clamped to the router table will serve you well.
To dress it up a bit and see how you can use the fence to make sliding dovetail joints, flutes and tongue and groove joinery you can see an article on my website.

Use google and search for 'templatesbynumbers british woodworking'.

(The article is featured in this month's British Woodworking magazine.)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Kristian

I need to disagree with the other posted items 

The router table fence is 1/3 of the router table...it's true you can get by with just a block of wood but why not make a good one that can do many jobs..

Here's link to show you how to make a easy one that can do many jobs...

http://wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_24.html

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Kristian said:


> Hi there
> I´m new here and I am building my self a roter table,
> but I don´t know the best way the make router fence
> 
> ...


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## Kristian (Jun 23, 2008)

Thank´s to you all nice guys
Now that I got your attention... 

I have purchased some T-rack (or what you called it)
To use for miter tracks.

Where do you think I should put the "tracks" for the fence ?

Are there some pictures out there in the "space" that I can get some idees from
Or do you have pictures of your own tables.

Kristian

p.s. sorry about my bad English spelling sometimes


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Kristian I have had the same dilemma, If you look at my post under "table mounted routing" I had the same question. It is true it depends upon what one is going to do with their router, and I am still not sure on that one so I built one that is basic based upon a 4"X4" aluminum angle that came with the kit I bought from The Router Depot http://www.routertabledepot.com/largebuildkit.html. I am not suggesting to go that route, I am not sure I would have had I found this forum prior to the purchase. If you want you can check out some galleries for ideas. As far as "T" track, I use mine to hold the Fence in position and in the fence to hold feather boards etc. but there are other way to hold the v=fence in place like clamping it to the table at each end. Let me not get myself in too deep because I am a novas this myself. The main reason I responded is I have had the same question and bobj3's suggestion is the best I've seen to get one started. I may change some of this later after I get more awake (just cause I get up early doesn't mean all system are go!!). 

Just a note, I plan to down load bobj3's suggestion because it is the best basic router fence I have seen so far.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Kristian

It comes down to where the router hole is in your table top.. 

I like the dual track, that's to say one track for the sleds and one track for tee-type bolts..it comes one Alum.bar.

Many put it in the 1/3 of the table top or to say about 4" from the edge, but I like to see it on the edge of the table top

But again it comes dowm where the router is in the top..
Putting in the top is tricky and you only get one shot at it...
Check,and check and check again b/4 you cut the slot, put down some masking tape b/4 you start ,,this will help with the rip/chip out..

Pencil mark the masking tape, then go get some coffee and do it one more time..then when you are sure it's dead on clamp some boards to the top for guides for the router base,,,keep the bit up and push the router down the boards many times to made sure it will not jam...then b/4 you run the router down the slot clamp a board on the outside edge of the top where the bit will come out, this will help the rip out on the edge, make a very small cut on the 1st. pass this will cut the Verne layer and will give you a nice clean edge.. then set the router for a full cut...use the alum. bar for that job,,, just slip it into the router stop and lock it in place..add a hair to the setting,, I mean a hair...business card works well for this job.

You don't want the Alum.bar sticking up but you don't want it to deep.. 

Have fun , take your time and it will come out just the want you want it to..

Just a little note,, put some masking tape over the hole in the router table, for the router,chuck up a counter sink bit 1/4" shank and raise the router up just a little bit, this will give you a small hole to use for a true center point, to use as a guide.,,,then pull the fence in place ,lock it down and true it up with front or the slot you are going to put in..then mark the masking tape for the slot..

This sounds like a lot of work, it is but you only get one shot at it..


Hope this helps 


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Kristian said:


> Thank´s to you all nice guys
> Now that I got your attention...
> 
> I have purchased some T-rack (or what you called it)
> ...


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## a1tomo (Dec 3, 2008)

See pic of fence. Horizontal t-track is for mounting featherboards, etc.
Fence is made with scrap hardwood, made into an "L" shape. Jointed to be square, attached to t-tracks in table top.

Hope this helps,

Regards, Tom


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## Kristian (Jun 23, 2008)

Hi Bob

I have my router centered on my table
meaning approx. 400mm (15,75") from the edge of the table.

Since my table is 1200 mm (47,24") long or (wide)
and 800mm (31,50") deep I´ve already made the insert 
and drilled the hole for the router
btw it´s a Bosch GMF1400 CE.

Kristian


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## Kristian (Jun 23, 2008)

Hi Tom

Where can I see the picture of fence.

Sorry if I didn´t understand your explanation

Kristian


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## a1tomo (Dec 3, 2008)

Sorry Kristan, being new to the forum and a computer klutz, I am having triuble with pictures. I'll try again. or will be glad to E-mail to you.

Evidently, still not able to send picture (.jpg) anyone have an idea what I'm doing wrong?


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## Kristian (Jun 23, 2008)

Hi Tom
you can email me directly

Kristian


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

*What I would have done...*

I've just done a fair amount of research as I try to get my "reborn" shop up and running... and I would have take a different "route" (heh-heh) if I'd known what I do now.

I have a Bosch RA1181 table, never used yet. I was looking at the available jigs for dovetails and, hopefully, more general use... and having found the Incra Super System, I think it's the system of my dreams. Sure, around $400, but providing perfect dovetails and a higher level of precision on almost anything I can think of.

Then I see that it really works best with a larger table.... and that there are table saw extension router tables that work well with the Incra system. Oops: Those extensions only fit the Incra rails... which are part of the Incra TS system which adds the same precision to table-saw cuts as the Super System does for routing... with the combined rig being in the $700-$800 range.

If I had the dollars to burn, I'd do that right now, since space is at a premium in my (garage) shop. As things stand, I'm going to try to omit any routing projects that require dovetails, until I've set aside enough money to upgrade to the full "TS-LS" system.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI thistlefly

You can beat the high price of the Incra Super System by getting it's little brother that can do it all but at a lower price..
Many of the members have one.. like I do,,, they are great jigs..


http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11494&filter=Incra

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thistlefly said:


> I've just done a fair amount of research as I try to get my "reborn" shop up and running... and I would have take a different "route" (heh-heh) if I'd known what I do now.
> 
> I have a Bosch RA1181 table, never used yet. I was looking at the available jigs for dovetails and, hopefully, more general use... and having found the Incra Super System, I think it's the system of my dreams. Sure, around $400, but providing perfect dovetails and a higher level of precision on almost anything I can think of.
> 
> ...


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## Kristian (Jun 23, 2008)

Thank´s Bob

I have to think about making them by my self.
But right now I´m to tired to think about them.
I have to come back tomorrow, it´s bedtime here right now 10.30Pm
and we have another day tomorrow too, don´t we? (hopefully)

Talk to you later

Kristian


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Kristian: Hold the fort guys. 

Kristian do you have a baseplate to mount your router in your table? 

A fence can be dead simple or so complicated you won't be able to adjust it in this lifetime.

My fences are pieces of jointed hardwood, usually maple. When I have a situation that may require messing up a nice fence, I usually grab a chunk of whatever is thick enough and handy, joint an edge and face and clamp it to the table.

http://www.thewoodworkingchannel.com/

Go to this url, click on video, the video window will open up, on top of the video window is a tiny right arrow on the right, click on it, select "The Router Workshop" and select the third program in the right column. Click "play" and watch the video. It is 1/2 hour long but worth every second. You don't have to understand what they're saying, just watch. It will show you how to use a fence. Once done, you'll understand why all the differences of opinion here. "C" clamps, the one's you've already got and hammer yup, the one beside you are the only additional tools required.

This is a start. When you are finished watching the programs, come back here and we'll continue with your questions. 

Allthunbs


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

a1tomo said:


> Sorry Kristan, being new to the forum and a computer klutz, I am having triuble with pictures. I'll try again. or will be glad to E-mail to you.
> 
> Evidently, still not able to send picture (.jpg) anyone have an idea what I'm doing wrong?


Hi Tom,

When you reply or send, scroll down to the bottom of the page. You'll see a button called "manage attachments", click browse, then click upload. Once uploaded, click submit reply. Voila.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi all,

In no offense to Bj and others, but, I'm not fully understanding the confusion of the fences. The best fence is one that's functional for the user. I currently have 2 fences from OP, straight fence and a jointer fence. The 3rd fence is from a salvaged Craftsmen table.

If you want something that is truly simple, a flat, straight 2X4 is all that's needed.


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## a1tomo (Dec 3, 2008)

Thanks Ken,

Apparently was doing it upside down. Thanks for the input.

Tom


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Kristian, as I stated in the first answer to this post there are many ways to build a fence. I like the simple fence used on the Router Workshop, a piece of HDPE and two clamps. I have built a nice fence similar to what some have suggested in the past using a T track for hold downs and a dust collection chute on the back. Sliding faces to adjust the size of the opening, many nice features. This is from the plans in ShopNotes #1 and can be seen on the tables used on the Woodsmith show on our PBS which you may get on cable. All of these designs work, all will do the job. Simple or complicated is up to you.


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

> In no offense to Bj and others, but, I'm not fully understanding the confusion of the fences. The best fence is one that's functional for the user. I currently have 2 fences from OP, straight fence and a jointer fence. The 3rd fence is from a salvaged Craftsmen table.
> 
> If you want something that is truly simple, a flat, straight 2X4 is all that's needed.


Looking at this issue myself I am beginning to think that having several single-purpose fences may be easier to do than having a single super-duper multi-purpose fence. I am in the contemplative stage of adding a jointing fence.

As for the "flat, straight 2X4", they seem rarer than hen's teeth. One has to make them so. For that one needs a planer and a - jointing fence?


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI thistlefly
> 
> You can beat the high price of the Incra Super System by getting it's little brother that can do it all but at a lower price..
> Many of the members have one.. like I do,,, they are great jigs..
> ...


Thanks, Bob J....

Now that I've gotten so impressed by what the Super System can do, it will be hard to wrap my head around going halfway.  We'll see what the world looks like after the holidays, I guess!


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## HDS (Jun 3, 2009)

*Touche- a matter of fencing!*

I wish I had ten posts so i could show you my homemade fence and table!

18MM MDF is fine to start with.
It's dimensionally stable, easily machined and takes a very clean cut for TTrack fitting, drilling etc.
But the essential component of a fence for serious versatility is accurate positional control.
For this look at the rockler site at the inexpensive Incra-Jig by Taylor design, watch the video and decide.
If you buy one Incra tell you how to make a simle fence, which is great to get you started.
Also for tslot and mitre track spacing take a look at Bobs Plans, take the link from the Rockler website or google Bobs Plans.
Also if your feeling flush, take a look at the Incra mitre guages before you consider buying anything else.
I have the Mitre 1000SE which is fantastic, the V27 is a brilliant entry model.

My Incra fence and Mitre Guage have made the difference between mediocre and exceptional joinery capability.

Hope this was a help and not too late!

Best regards,
Henry.


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

I built my router table. It is 36 X 60 inches. I made my own fence and attached a vacume to it to collect the dust and chips.


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

*Router fence building*



Kristian said:


> Hi there
> I´m new here and I am building my self a roter table,
> but I don´t know the best way the make router fence
> 
> ...


I had an old Craftsman Router table. it was about 2ft by 18inches, and stood on legs. Very unstable to use with anything of size.
I had an old oak chest of drawers. I removed the top and wrapped the bottom with 2x6 for stability. I removed the top two drawers (side by side) and dropped my router table down inside, I used 3/4 plywood for the top and banded it with 1x2. Cut out the hold in the center to fit my router table, built the fence out of a piece of hard wood and a piece of softer pine, cut out for the router bits, and cut a hole to fit my shop vac. I wired it all together on one switch, so when I turn the switch on, the router, the shop vac and my drop light all come on. the fence is adjustable using the original slides in the table. 
Hope the pictures come out ok.


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