# Understanding Rabbeting blades



## headlessblade (Apr 7, 2011)

After buying a table saw yesterday, and returning it today because it could not use dados, I did some research and bought a router and router table from sears. I would like to make Rabbeting cuts on the edge of the wood(cut out a 1/2"x1/4" square out of a 3"x1"(actual 2.5"x0.5") plank. So the 0.25"cut would be out of the 0.5" thickness of the plank and the height of the cut into the wood would be 0.5".

now I saw rabbeting bits but i dont understand the cuts
Craftsman 1/2 x 1/2 in. Rabbeting Router Bit, 1/4 in. Shank

1/2"x1/2" means the depth and height of the rabbet? 
so this means i CANNOt get the height of 0.5" but not 0.25" depth?
or can i get 0.5" height and <0.5" depth?

I'm confused.


----------



## tdublyou (Jan 8, 2010)

Rod,
1/2 x 1/2 is the maximum cut you can make with that bit. You need to adjust the height of the router and/or the position of your fence in order to make the cut you want.


----------



## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

Which size bearing you use sets how far in from the edge the bit cuts and how high you set your router sets how deep the rabbet will be.....


----------



## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

On a table, you could just use a normal straight bit and use the height and fence adjustments to make the cut you want.


----------



## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

As has been said one rabbetting bit gives you endless variations by adjusting height, fence and the bearing size used whereever needed.


----------



## headlessblade (Apr 7, 2011)

thanks a lot I believe understand now...I guess the rabbeting bit is more limiting than a straight bit? So I would be better off buying a 1" straight router bit and adjusting the fence and router height on the router table to make 1/2" by 1/4" groove in the wood??? or should i buy the biggest bit I can get?

I'm going to be cutting pine, I hope it would be fast cuts since the wood is soft

Initially I wanted to buy a rabbeting set with multiple bearings and a rabbeting bit but $50+ for a set and seeing as I will only need 1/2"x1/4" groove (for now), if I can get away with using a straight bit for $15 I'll try it and buy the rabbeting bits later on.

Thanks again for all the help


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rod

A rabbet bit is worth it's weight in gold, it can do many,many jobs not just rabbets... you can run them with or without the bearing in place and just use the fence, plus you don't need to drop 50.oo bucks for one.
But I will say I have about 20 of them and the best one I have is the one I got from Rockler...it's about 1 1/2" high and it came with many bearings.

2 pc 1/4"SH 1/2" & 3/8" Rabbeting Slotting Router Bit - eBay (item 130500459605 end time Apr-20-11 18:47:15 PDT)

2 pc 1/2" SH 1/2" Height Rabbeting Slotting Router Bit - eBay (item 130505977829 end time May-06-11 13:33:34 PDT)


==========



headlessblade said:


> thanks a lot I believe understand now...I guess the rabbeting bit is more limiting than a straight bit? So I would be better off buying a 1" straight router bit and adjusting the fence and router height on the router table to make 1/2" by 1/4" groove in the wood??? or should i buy the biggest bit I can get?
> 
> I'm going to be cutting pine, I hope it would be fast cuts since the wood is soft
> 
> ...


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

headlessblade said:


> thanks a lot I believe understand now...I guess the rabbeting bit is more limiting than a straight bit? So I would be better off buying a 1" straight router bit and adjusting the fence and router height on the router table to make 1/2" by 1/4" groove in the wood??? or should i buy the biggest bit I can get?
> 
> I'm going to be cutting pine, I hope it would be fast cuts since the wood is soft
> 
> ...


Hi Rod, I wouldn't say a rabbeting bit is more limited than a straight bit, just different. Most rabbeting bits also use a shear angle which will leave a better cut, especially in plywoods. $50 is also a pretty high end set, IMHO. Check here and look at item #8366:
MLCS rabbeting router bits and kits


----------



## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Rob,
please don't rely on a straight bit for rabbetting, do buy a decent rabbetting bit with multiple bearings, with mine I even bought more bearings than supplied, to create even more variations.


----------



## headlessblade (Apr 7, 2011)

This is my first time using a router, but I will eventually get a rabbeting set since I do believe it will make the cuts easier and I can free hand... I bought a 3/4"diameter, 1 and 1/4" height blade 2flute straight 1/2" shank... I want to start using my router asap, probably tomorrow I need to buy the wood.

The 1/2" shank I read is more stable, but I really bought it because it would be hard to break the shank, 1/4" looks like it could break a lot easier when the blade gets hot or just under heavy usage.

Thank you all for helping me I'm glad I bumped into this forum, while searching 

I'll post pics of my project when it's done


----------



## headlessblade (Apr 7, 2011)

I just opened the router table I bought from sears, it has a 1/8" shim do i need to use that shim? If I do wont the fence be unlevel and probably cause kick back? or the wood to get stuck. Do I need to use the shim?

also what is best height table to put the router table on? I dont want to get damaged by putting it to high or low (face/back) LOL


----------



## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

You shouldn't need the shim. It's probably so you can insert it behind the left side fence & use your router table as a jointer. Height would be what you feel is safe & can operate comfortably.


----------



## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Don't forget you move your material across the table right to left. Left to right is for a hand held router that is above the material being machined. Never trap your material between the fence & cutting surface of the bit.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just a add a note ,,the shim is use also when you use a router bit without a bearing on it or when the bit removes some of the stock that's needed to keep it running true by the bit.
like the bit below for just one of many.
MLCS bullnose and train track router bits

========


----------



## headlessblade (Apr 7, 2011)

alrighty thanks... I was also wondering how tight should I tighten the collete/nut??? It says in the manual to "TIGHTEN THE COLLET/NUT SECURELY"... how tight is that(I know it is kind of a dumb question) but if I try to hard I may break the spindle lock or bend the spindle shaft, Or I won't be able to open it or something else lol.... 

Can I over tighten it? 

I have only plugged the router in to make sure it works, and inspect the parts....
I know with regular drills if you don't tighten the chuck really tight the drill bit will slip, but if you tighten it to tight you can always use a hammer and screw driver to open it lol....


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Rod

"Can I over tighten it? " = Yes, the collet nut is not made like the drill chuck,it's a very precision device..no King Kong needed just " SECURELY" will do the trick..

=====



headlessblade said:


> alrighty thanks... I was also wondering how tight should I tighten the collete/nut??? It says in the manual to "TIGHTEN THE COLLET/NUT SECURELY"... how tight is that(I know it is kind of a dumb question) but if I try to hard I may break the spindle lock or bend the spindle shaft, Or I won't be able to open it or something else lol....
> 
> Can I over tighten it?
> 
> ...


----------



## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

headlessblade said:


> alrighty thanks... I was also wondering how tight should I tighten the collete/nut??? It says in the manual to "TIGHTEN THE COLLET/NUT SECURELY"... how tight is that(I know it is kind of a dumb question) but if I try to hard I may break the spindle lock or bend the spindle shaft, Or I won't be able to open it or something else lol....
> 
> Can I over tighten it?
> 
> ...


Only one of my routers has a spindle lock but I always use two wrenches and tighten the collet as tight as I can get it, I have had router bits "creep" if not tightened enough


----------



## headlessblade (Apr 7, 2011)

do you guys think i could make a 0.5"width by 1" deep in one pass with the router? kinda like book case shelves, the groove for the shelf.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rod 

1" deep = ??? ,,the norm is 1/2" deep max.

BUT 1" deep, the router bit can do it but it will play hell with the router bit and the router..  , that's pulling out a ton of lumber in one pass..

=======



headlessblade said:


> do you guys think i could make a 0.5"width by 1" deep in one pass with the router? kinda like book case shelves, the groove for the shelf.


----------



## headlessblade (Apr 7, 2011)

well the bit is a .5" bit with 1.25"blade length, damn i guess a dado blade with a table saw might be better for that type of cut... ok ill think of something or make a few passes


----------



## headlessblade (Apr 7, 2011)

what is the pine wood made from smaller pieces of pine like glued together? to make big sheets (kinda like a butcher block expect its like 1"thick and various widths 4",6",8",10"..)

also is that cheaper than plain pine boards of the same size? i cant find those on homedepot site... sorry i know this is off topic in my topic ;(


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

headlessblade said:


> what is the pine wood made from smaller pieces of pine like glued together? to make big sheets (kinda like a butcher block expect its like 1"thick and various widths 4",6",8",10"..)
> 
> also is that cheaper than plain pine boards of the same size? i cant find those on homedepot site... sorry i know this is off topic in my topic ;(


Hi Rod - I think you're refering to the laminated pine boards at Home Depot. Come in 22 - 30 inch width and made up of "1 by" lumber. 1 by normally measures out to 3/4" actual measurement. Coincidentally, I was looking at that stuff myself this afternoon and when I picked a piece up, it felt a bit thin... sure 'nuf closer to 5/8".


----------

