# Which router lift?



## David Mosey (Dec 28, 2008)

I'm looking for a router lift that will handle my Porter Cable 7815. Jointech, Woodpecker and Bench Dog all have models which look pretty good (at least the pictures look good). The Jessem MastRlift (the only model I've actually seen in the flesh) is a very nice piece of kit, but requires the use of offset spanners (sorry, wrenches), and doesn't have direct drive. Has anyone any experience with any of these lifts? Any insights, opinions or suggestions will be very much appreciated.

Happy new year, all.

David


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## narmoudi (Dec 24, 2008)

I've used the Bench dog for approx. 1 year and am very impressed. All stainless & extremely rigid. I've recently incorporated their steel table top. Not the most economical solution but very high quality products.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

To me the bit above table changes is more important than the height adjustment(even that is not such a big deal). After years of going through all the lifts, woodpecker, Jessem, the digital lift from jointech I have found that to me and for me its a waste of money. 

If I need to move fast I use set up blocks anyway. So after years of going for the best lifts and spending the big bucks I realized I did not need a lift. 

I am resigned to the fact I need to be frugal and I really do not miss the lifts at all. I sold the three lifts I had and bought two Festool routers! I think I did the right thing.

On topic:

There are so many good lifts out their now you can not really do wrong.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

I use the 2Xqtr20 lift - two 1/4-20 bolts with fender washers tacked to the heads to lift the plate and router to the table top. This seems as quick as a lift, and makes it easy to change bits, set depth of cut, etc. At $0.22, it's a little pricey, but what the heck.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

David Mosey said:


> I'm looking for a router lift that will handle my Porter Cable 7815. Jointech, Woodpecker and Bench Dog all have models which look pretty good (at least the pictures look good). The Jessem MastRlift (the only model I've actually seen in the flesh) is a very nice piece of kit, but requires the use of offset spanners (sorry, wrenches), and doesn't have direct drive. Has anyone any experience with any of these lifts? Any insights, opinions or suggestions will be very much appreciated.
> 
> Happy new year, all.
> 
> David



David, have you considered the Router Raizer? It is not powered, it does allow changing base plates, can be used with both table mounted and handheld routesrs, the price is considerably less than that of a new higher powered router, and the customer service is superb. They do not advertise or sell directly. The downside is the hour or so required to modify the router and the various baseplates in order to install it.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Ralph Barker said:


> I use the 2Xqtr20 lift - two 1/4-20 bolts with fender washers tacked to the heads to lift the plate and router to the table top. This seems as quick as a lift, and makes it easy to change bits, set depth of cut, etc. At $0.22, it's a little pricey, but what the heck.



Ralph I love your system! Talk about a KISS set up!


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## BOB J 4 (Nov 11, 2008)

David I can recommend the Jointech router lift pro. I have been using it for over five years and has always performed perfectly. There is no play in the adjustments and is very precise and never gets plugged up or binds on the shafts. I have the first version before they started producing it as digital read out. 
Also being able to adjust it from above with the crank handle is so easy to adjust and the adjuster can be zero'd so you can return to same position after changing bits.


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## TAJones (Dec 31, 2008)

Ralph Barker said:


> I use the 2Xqtr20 lift - two 1/4-20 bolts with fender washers tacked to the heads to lift the plate and router to the table top. This seems as quick as a lift, and makes it easy to change bits, set depth of cut, etc. At $0.22, it's a little pricey, but what the heck.


ok, what is a 2Xqtr20 lift.I am on my first router table homemade and already planning on a newer one for a bigger router.

Tom


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

This 2Xqtr 20 lift is is an excellent product. and as a retired engineer can also recommend it
With the money saved, you can buy a router explicitly for your table routing.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

TAJones said:


> ok, what is a 2Xqtr20 lift.I am on my first router table homemade and already planning on a newer one for a bigger router.
> 
> Tom


"2X" = two times, or a quantity of two

"qtr20" = 1/4-20, i.e. the size of the bolts

With all the real comedians out of work these days, I probably shouldn't try to be funny, but sometimes the temptation is too great to resist. 

The (cheap) Rockler table I have uses the plate-mounted approach, where the standard router baseplate is removed, and the router attached to a larger, rectangular plate that rests in a countersunk area on the table top. The plate has several pre-drilled and tapped holes. I just thread in a couple of bolts, and lift the entire assembly to the top of the table. It gets everything out where I can see it.


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## joeyschmoey (Jan 5, 2009)

the jessem absolutely rocks!


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## TAJones (Dec 31, 2008)

Ralph Barker said:


> "2X" = two times, or a quantity of two
> 
> "qtr20" = 1/4-20, i.e. the size of the bolts
> 
> ...


Thanks, I figured as much. I am cheaper as, I drilled two 3/4" holes in each side of my homemade plate and stick two fingers of each hand into these and lift out the plate with router attached.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Magazines tell you that the "Ultimate router table" has a lift and people rush out to buy one. Lifts are great for people with limited mobility. I have noticed new lifts with digital read outs and I am sure they will appeal to some people. The plain and simple truth is every one of those lifts in mounted to a plate which lifts out. If you can lift the plate out and make bit changes or height adjustments faster than cranking(and cranking and cranking) a handle, doesn't that defeat the purpose of the lift? For the price of most lifts you can buy a nice 2-1/4 hp combo kit and a couple of decent quality bits. Or you could just buy more quality bits. If you want a lift the answer is they all work, but I feel you are better off investing your money where it will give more of a return.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

BOB J 4 said:


> David I can recommend the Jointech router lift pro. I have been using it for over five years and has always performed perfectly. There is no play in the adjustments and is very precise and never gets plugged up or binds on the shafts. I have the first version before they started producing it as digital read out.
> Also being able to adjust it from above with the crank handle is so easy to adjust and the adjuster can be zero'd so you can return to same position after changing bits.


I, too use this lift and find it an extremely well built unit. BTW, PC sells offset spanners. I couldn't find them on their website, but my tool guy was able to find them on his PC part locater program. I guess, only PC retailers have that program.
Anyway, The lift does allow you to raise the bit well above the table for changes. The offset spanners aren't really needed. I just find it easier to use them.
Another BTW, I wish I had purchased the digital readout model, but it wasn't available when I was in the market.
--Gene


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi joeyschmoey

Like they say you can fool some of the people some of the time but you can't fool all the people all the time.. 

I not sure why anyone in their right mind would buy one,,when you can buy a router that comes with it build in...Bosch,Craftsman,Triton,etc. in the Craftsman line you can buy 3 router combo kits for about the same price as the Jessem..  

http://www.routerforums.com/78699-post8.html
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-RA1165-...f=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1231345618&sr=1-10
http://www.amazon.com/Triton-MOF001..._m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0H3MAXTYW7YZMT7NWBWT

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joeyschmoey said:


> the jessem absolutely rocks!


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

As I have posted before I have sold all my lifts after trying many of them and spending a fortune. It just is not required for me. I do not miss them at all.

I bet I can change a bit and get the right height adjustment faster or just as fast as anyone using the lift.

The money saved on a lift can get you another router and table and then you can have two setups, say for a stile and rail, ready to go all the time. While someone is fiddling with the lift I am cutting away.

More importantly I know a guy that has a 1500.00 router table set up and is pining away for a jointer and planer, that is ridiculous! He could have bought a router, a table, a planer and a jointer for the 1500.00! He is giving up basic shop tools for something that is a luxury at best and a waste of money at worst.

I suggest getting the basic shop tools and everything you need to make good projects and get the lift last, if there are funds left.


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

I haven't built a router table yet but when I do, I'm thinking about using the hinged table method. Any opinions regarding hinged tables to make changing bits easier?


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

The hinged top does not help me to change the bits. I either change the bits from above the table or I pop out the router plate and lay the router on its side. Or drop out the router itself and make the change.

I never saw how the hinged table could help make it any easier for bit changing, maybe someone that uses it all the time can respond. I used one several times but never really got it, at least not for changing the bits.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Skyglider

Here's just one more way to make it easy to change the bits out and to set the bit...plus you don't need to lift all the weight of the router out..


JUst flip it up, then it drop it back in place..

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Skyglider said:


> I haven't built a router table yet but when I do, I'm thinking about using the hinged table method. Any opinions regarding hinged tables to make changing bits easier?


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI Skyglider
> 
> Here's just one more way to make it easy to change the bits out and to set the bit...plus you don't need to lift all the weight of the router out..
> JUst flip it up, then it drop it back in place..
> ...


Bob,

A sewing machine router table. Gotta love your garage sale skills ....
And that's the first time I've seen a hinged router plate. 

Both of these items plus many of your other posts, I officially nominate you as the most "ingenious" poster on the routerfourms. Keep up your great posts!


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

nickao65 said:


> The hinged top does not help me to change the bits. I either change the bits from above the table or I pop out the router plate and lay the router on its side. Or drop out the router itself and make the change.


nickao65,

Of the 3 methods you listed, could you list them with percentage of useage? That could help me out a lot with how I decide to build my router table.

If anyone else who doesn't use a router lift cares to list their percentage of how they change bits, please do post.

Thanks,
Skyglider


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi joeyschmoey
> 
> Like they say you can fool some of the people some of the time but you can't fool all the people all the time..
> 
> I not sure why anyone in their right mind would buy one,,when you can buy a router that comes with it build in...Bosch,Craftsman,Triton,etc. in the Craftsman line you can buy 3 router combo kits for about the same price as the Jessem..


Yeah, but the adjustable bases have a separate clamping mechanism where you have to unclamp, adjust, clamp, measure (directly or after making a test cut), repeat; backlash which makes that more painful; and limited travel (I can't make shallow cuts with a 1 1/4" long bit in my PC890). They can also completely release the motor and drop it on the ground after which it puts a ding in your router bit (I only managed to mess up a $30 bit but it could have been worse).

I'd pay $100 to make that go away, which is the difference in what I'd spend to get a lift (for 690 diameter motors, notably the Woodpecker Quick Lift which doesn't have to be cranked for short adjustments ) beyond the price tag of the Craftsman 3 base package. I'd even do $120 (the premium beyond a simple aluminum insert).

With two kids in college I don't think a router lift is $200 or $300 worth of cool.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Build the router table without a lift. Try it like that for a while. If you really find that you want a lift, then get one. They can always be added later.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Drew

The Craftsman/Triton are very easy to use crank it up or down,put the brass bars/setup block in place , lock it and it's set..no adjustments needed... 


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Drew Eckhardt said:


> Yeah, but the adjustable bases have a separate clamping mechanism where you have to unclamp, adjust, clamp, measure (directly or after making a test cut), repeat; backlash which makes that more painful; and limited travel (I can't make shallow cuts with a 1 1/4" long bit in my PC890). They can also completely release the motor and drop it on the ground after which it puts a ding in your router bit (I only managed to mess up a $30 bit but it could have been worse).
> 
> I'd pay $100 to make that go away, which is the difference in what I'd spend to get a lift (for 690 diameter motors, notably the Woodpecker Quick Lift which doesn't have to be cranked for short adjustments ) beyond the price tag of the Craftsman 3 base package. I'd even do $120 (the premium beyond a simple aluminum insert).
> 
> With two kids in college I don't think a router lift is $200 or $300 worth of cool.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Skyglider, most people simply lift the router out of the table to change bits. This process is quick and easy. It is often easier to adjust your bit height with the router sitting on an angle atop your bench since you don't have to bend to see it. These reasons are why most people have mounting plates.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Skyglider

I set it up because I hurt my back a year or two ago, and it was hard to lift the router out of the table or get on my knees to play with the router..
the hinges are just the standard pocket hole type, but I had some Alum.plates just for that type of job but any one can made some pocket plates with some hardwood...

It sure does beats trying to lift the router out of the table ,it's only about 15lbs or so but when your back hurts it hurts.. 
I use a steel plate because I had one on hand but I'm sure any 9" x 12" plate could be use in the same way..
The only hard part is getting the pocket hinge to set in the top flush, but I'm sure you can set the little pocket hole in the table top to let it sit just right. other than that it's easy job to do...

As far as the sewing cabinet I just hate to see a good hardwood cabinet go to waste.. and I now use it for my storage for many of my router bits, and it came with wheels on top of that  

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Skyglider said:


> Bob,
> 
> A sewing machine router table. Gotta love your garage sale skills ....
> And that's the first time I've seen a hinged router plate.
> ...


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Bobj3 - nifty setup with the sewing table. 

I'm a little disappointed you didn't find an old Singer, though, so you could use the treadle for slow-speed routing.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ralph

Thanks

hahahahahahahahaha that maybe a bit hard hahahahahaha it's funny you said a word about the old Singer type, I had one for many years but I just could not find a thing I could use it for... hahahahaha I said one day how about a knife sharper and then I said no ,, I have elec. ones that can do a better job... hahahaha LOL so off it when to Good Will 

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Ralph Barker said:


> Bobj3 - nifty setup with the sewing table.
> 
> I'm a little disappointed you didn't find an old Singer, though, so you could use the treadle for slow-speed routing.


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## David Mosey (Dec 28, 2008)

Mike said:


> Magazines tell you that the "Ultimate router table" has a lift and people rush out to buy one. Lifts are great for people with limited mobility. I have noticed new lifts with digital read outs and I am sure they will appeal to some people. The plain and simple truth is every one of those lifts in mounted to a plate which lifts out. If you can lift the plate out and make bit changes or height adjustments faster than cranking(and cranking and cranking) a handle, doesn't that defeat the purpose of the lift? For the price of most lifts you can buy a nice 2-1/4 hp combo kit and a couple of decent quality bits. Or you could just buy more quality bits. If you want a lift the answer is they all work, but I feel you are better off investing your money where it will give more of a return.


Actually Mike, you've identified the principal reason I'm looking for a lift-- my arthritis is making it more and more difficult and uncomfortable to live with my current set-up, hence the router lift. Doing bit changes and making height adjustments from above the table is what I'm after.


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## David Mosey (Dec 28, 2008)

nickao65 said:


> The hinged top does not help me to change the bits. I either change the bits from above the table or I pop out the router plate and lay the router on its side. Or drop out the router itself and make the change.
> 
> I never saw how the hinged table could help make it any easier for bit changing, maybe someone that uses it all the time can respond. I used one several times but never really got it, at least not for changing the bits.


I built my router table with a hinged top, and I think on balance that's worked for me for bit changing (until now). It's still fiddly, but easier than lifting the whole issue out of the table. But for people with hands and wrists in good shape that probably isn't a problem.


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## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

Hay Ralph

Could you take a pix of your expensive router lift?  I'm more of a visual type person.

Anyone use the Router Raizer http://eagleamerica.com/product.asp?pn=415-0600


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