# Small Parts Jig



## RLFX (Nov 20, 2009)

Hi all seen this today thought some one might need one !!


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Thanks for posting. That I can use.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Randy, your timing is perfect... thank you for posting!!!!


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

I would have posted that a long time ago but every time I post a diagram, instructions or an illustration I am told its illegal and it gets deleted. :angry:


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

That's a real handy one! Thanks for posting.


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## gallianp (Oct 13, 2009)

illegal or not - thanks for posting it.. one more jig for the sheet of MDF that I have been trying to get at Lowes or Home D-- too wet outside or snow in pickup bed ...


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

RLFX said:


> Hi all seen this today thought some one might need one !!


Thanks Randy, just happen to have a small toggle clamp been looking for a job


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

......thats pretty good Randy, thanks for the post, Regards..........AL


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## okanagan (Dec 18, 2009)

Thanks for the helpful post Randy. Please find more.


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## BlondeWood (Oct 11, 2004)

Thank you so much. I love that jig and plan to build it. I have the store bought one sold in Rockler and such. It does a fair job, but this looks like it will REALLY hold a piece safely.
Vicki


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Randy, That is about as handy as a pocket on a shirt...Thanks for the post..

"G"


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Randy

Thanks for posting that. It could also adapt for arched door templates.

Cheers

Peter


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## RLFX (Nov 20, 2009)

Glad you like it, have a good one and Back to the Hockey Game Canada & USA !!!
Canada all the way !! GO GO CANADA


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## tprofera (Jun 29, 2008)

Nice jig. I plan also to build one. Do you think 2 clamps set in a t-track might make this jig more usable?


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## RLFX (Nov 20, 2009)

I think the point of this jig to slide it across your tale , with 2 clamps in a t-track it would'nt work right, just my thinking if you get one built put a picture of it up ..

Randy


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Safety Small Parts Holder

MLCS Safety Accessories

Eliminate danger and enhance safety when working with small parts. 
Securely positions and aligns small parts with quick release clamping action, preventing slipping and keeping fingers away from sharp cutting edges. 
Large, easy-to-grip handles guarantee precision and control when custom-shaping small pieces. 
Can handle wood stock up to 10” and any cut angle up to 45 degrees. 
Works for router or saw tables, drill presses, band saws, joiners and more. Great for toy parts, door rail ends, and other detail jobs that would be dangerous or impossible without it.

==========


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Does the MLCS tool have the Bobj3 seal of approval. I am a big fan of MLCS apart from an undersized 3/8" bit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I must say I don't have one , I use the wooden screw clamp most of the time..  4" to 12" ones  they are just hanging around most of the time..

==



Mike Wingate said:


> Does the MLCS tool have the Bobj3 seal of approval. I am a big fan of MLCS apart from an undersized 3/8" bit.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

tprofera said:


> Nice jig. I plan also to build one. Do you think 2 clamps set in a t-track might make this jig more usable?


Sure, or maybe even just adding adjustable stop blocks in a t-track. 

I agree, it really is a nice little jig!

It seems like the advantage of this jig over the MLCS jig that Bobj3 linked to is the guide surfaces on the base of the jig that contact the fence. That would come in handy on parts that don’t have enough surface for a bearing to ride on.

The disadvantage of this jig over the MLCS one is that you lose ½”of available bit height because of the ½” thick base.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

tprofera said:


> Nice jig. I plan also to build one. Do you think 2 clamps set in a t-track might make this jig more usable?


here's a quick sketch of the original jig design and also one of the modified jig with adjustable stop blocks.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I have the small parts holder like the MCLS one. It's not all that. I will be building the jig in this post as an alternative. I think it will work much better.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

CanuckGal said:


> I have the small parts holder like the MCLS one. It's not all that. I will be building the jig in this post as an alternative. I think it will work much better.


I had the same one Deb and ended up giving it away. It just did not feel safe nor heavy enough for my comfort.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi gregW

Very Nice drawing, but I think you are right about the 1/2" thick stock that could be a real down fall, the bit needs to be higher out of the table most of the time ,looks like it will nail the jig big time,and wipe it out on the 1st pass, but for a flush cut bit it should work well 

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;156924 said:


> here's a quick sketch of the original jig design and also one of the modified jig with adjustable stop blocks.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi gregW
> 
> Very Nice drawing, but I think you are right about the 1/2" thick stock that could be a real down fall, the bit needs to be higher out of the table most of the time ,looks like it will nail the jig big time,and wipe it out on the 1st pass, but for a flush cut bit it should work well
> 
> =====


It looks like he designed the clearance cut in the base to prevent the bit from contacting it, and he also moved the cutout for the stop edge towards the center to provide clearance for when the cutter exits the part.


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## RLFX (Nov 20, 2009)

Hay bobj3 do you buy every thing or have you ever tried making things ?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Randy

I do make things now and then , check out my Gallery you will so one or two of them..  or to say 2,350 of them 

=========



RLFX said:


> Hay bobj3 do you buy every thing or have you ever tried making things ?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

*Well, I had to try it.*

Well, I been looking at small parts holders and got a little bored so thought "why not".:blink:
First off, the drawing seems to omit several dimensions that aren't intuitively obvious until you start putting it together. Precisely where to put the slots wasn't exactly forthcoming, nor how much recess to put in the base, nor just how to position the clamp. 
Anyway, after a few trial and errors (mostly errors) I ended up with a 1/2" recess on the base. It starts 3/4" from the left end and stops 1-1/2" from the right end. The t-nuts are 1/2" from the back edge and 2-1/2" from the left and right ends.
For the top, the 2" long slots are start 1/2" from the back edge and 1" from each end. The cutout along the front (fence) edge is 3/4" wide and 8" long. This will leave a 1" wide "pusher". Had to fool with the clamp several times to get it right, ended up about 1/2" from the right slot.
The thing actually works pretty well. Tried it on some 3/4" stock with a triple bead bit. Bit did not quite get to the top edge of the workpiece but I had it pretty well buried in the collet, only out about an eighth of an inch. Could pull the bit up some or use a collet extension. There is enough relief in it that at the end of the cut you still have more than an inch to remove the assembly before you would contact the bit with the jig. I think what I dislike the most about it is when I get enough pressure on the clamp, the top has lifted from the base substantially. It doesn't seem to affect performance but I have gone to 1-1/4" fender washers under the knobs anyway. If I decide to try to fix that I am thinking it needs a different type of clamp. 
Will try to get some pics posted tommorrow.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Très beau gabarit, je vais certainement le faire !
Merci
Santé


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

??????


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santé said:


> très beau gabarit, je vais certainement le faire !
> Merci
> santé


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> ??????
> 
> 
> =========


Ditto


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Very nice template, I will certainly do!
Don't we all speak French?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I have a hard time with just one of them, bubba,good old boy,yall,homie,whatsup,bloody thing,whato,torch,cheers ,etc. 

=======



Mike Wingate said:


> Very nice template, I will certainly do!
> Don't we all speak French?


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi BobJ,

i think he was trying to tell a blonde joke. at least thats the best interpretation i can do.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Mike Wingate said:


> Very nice template, I will certainly do!
> Don't we all speak French?


Way things are going we might better start studying Chinese:big_boss:


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Bienvenue Daniel ! Je comprends un petit peu de francais mais habituellement nous parlons anglais ici.

Cheers

Peter


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

istracpsboss said:


> Bienvenue Daniel ! Je comprends un petit peu de francais mais habituellement nous parlons anglais ici.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


translation =
Daniel welcome! I understand a little bit of French but usually we speak English here.


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## Troy_Utah (Jan 29, 2010)

I'm new to this routing stuff and love it. This is likely a "dumb question", especially for you veterans, but I'm trying to figure out what that jig would be used for. Obviously to hold a piece of wood horizontally to give an edge a profile but wouldn't you just set it flat on the router table? I'm sure there is something obvious I am missing. Examples anyone? Thanks and glad to find this forum.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Troy you wouldn't want to hold a piece as small as the one pictured in the original post with your bare hands while running it past a router bit spinning at 20,000 RPMs. You always want to keep your fingers well away from the bit. It would be very easy for the bit to "grab" a piece that small and pull your hands in with it. 
This jig allows you to hold the piece securely and move it past the bit with both hands well out of the way. It is also easier to do it this way then to try to make the workpiece stationary (when it's that small) and try to profile it with a hand held router. It would be near impossible. So when you have some small part that you want to detail, this is the exact jig you need to do it safely!


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## Troy_Utah (Jan 29, 2010)

Hey CG,
Thanks for the response. After reading your post I went back and looked at the picture. I now see that small piece which I originally thought was part of the jig. Now I totally get it. VERY COOL. There is no way you could do that without a jig like this, and keep your fingers. Kudos to RLFX for a great find. Thanks for clarifying. I'll look closer next time.


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## Slingshot (Dec 14, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> I have a hard time with just one of them, bubba,good old boy,yall,homie,whatsup,bloody thing,whato,torch,cheers ,etc.
> 
> =======


For quick (albeit not tremendously accurate) translations, Free Translation and Professional Translation Services from SDL


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Mike Wingate said:


> Very nice template, I will certainly do!
> Don't we all speak French?


Sorry, an error is to copy / paste a sentence translated by google

Santé


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I built one of these and have been playing with it a bit. Not really sure I like the clamping arrangement. #1, putting any pressure on the clamp will deflect the top board (fence?) and #2, getting a very narrow board in there will cause the clamp arm to interfere with the table fence, at least on my table. 
I'm thinking of a 3rd slot in the center of the fence board with a Carriage bolt up from the base plate and using a t-track holdown. Transfering the clamping force to the base instead of the top board.


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## Shadowmill (Jan 18, 2010)

Great jig. Thanks for posting. This will save trying to figure out whether to cut the small piece first or rout the edges.


Ross


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Santé said:


> Très beau gabarit, je vais certainement le faire !
> Merci
> Santé


Very nice jig. I will certainly make one. Thank you.


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## MarcoBernardini (Jan 26, 2010)

As a total newbie in this field, if I had to work a really small piece I'd take a big chunk of scrap wood and dig a pocket into it to host the small piece.
Could this be a good solution? (This late question is posed by my fingers)


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

MarcoBernardini said:


> As a total newbie in this field, if I had to work a really small piece I'd take a big chunk of scrap wood and dig a pocket into it to host the small piece.
> Could this be a good solution? (This late question is posed by my fingers)


Hi Marco:

That's the concept but you have to hold the part in the pocket somehow. I prefer to cut everything in large pieces and when all the dangerous stuff is done, cut it into the small parts.


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## asrubin (Jan 1, 2008)

*"feather rollers"*

Just installed these on my router fence...they work great.. nothing but paint rollers that I picked up at HD. Both are adjustable..
tks


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Duane867 said:


> I would have posted that a long time ago but every time I post a diagram, instructions or an illustration I am told its illegal and it gets deleted. :angry:


Duane, has your problem with posting diagrams, instructions and illustrations been worked out? If not, I would hope the moderation team or if necessary Forum Founder would work it out for you.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

asrubin said:


> Just installed these on my router fence...they work great.. nothing but paint rollers that I picked up at HD. Both are adjustable..
> tks


Wow! What a brilliant and low-budget solution. (Now that I have one son in college and another a year away, low budget is very important.)


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## Wheatridge (Jan 9, 2011)

*Small parts jig*

Thanks Randy, that is exactly what I was looking for.


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## jane2002 (Oct 22, 2009)

Thanks for the post


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## 01stairguy (Apr 18, 2010)

thanks for posting!


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## john880 (Aug 18, 2010)

Hello woodworkers,
I too have the need for a small parts jig for my table. I regularly post over in the area that this jig came from, and ask the question looking for there. I like the concept of this jig but did not like the clamp idea, used to counter the torque of the bit/s. But coming here like the second improved version posted by gregW and agree on page 2 of his summation. So here is a idea on this jig, I would like to throw out, for more opinions.

Lets take the 1/2" base. (1) It slides against the fence if needed. (2) because of the thickness of the base piece is needed to hold fasteners/bolts from below to slide the top piece forward and back. I can not see/think of any way to reduce its thickness or a safety substitute material to preform this function.

Would this work ~~(1) Make a deeper cut into the already cut of the base piece. Slightly more (1/16") The depth of the two holding/ sliding pieces located on the higher board, from the face of said board to the outside of the two blocks. (3) now extend the depth of the downward cut of these blocks to just above the routers table. ***In this redesign the blocks might have to be made thicker to accomplish this. (4) The two back holding knobs that hold the upper part & to control the slide of that upper part, would now have to be re-designed/re-located to accomplish their original task. (5) Line the inside of said holding blocks with a course but replaceable sandpaper. (6) extend the base of the jig far enough to allow wood vertical hand holds. 

Fire away !!!!!


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Randy, that is really cool, smart and safe. Thanks for showing us that! *OPG3*


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

john880 said:


> Hello woodworkers,
> I too have the need for a small parts jig for my table. I regularly post over in the area that this jig came from, and ask the question looking for there. I like the concept of this jig but did not like the clamp idea, used to counter the torque of the bit/s. But coming here like the second improved version posted by gregW and agree on page 2 of his summation. So here is a idea on this jig, I would like to throw out, for more opinions.
> 
> Lets take the 1/2" base. (1) It slides against the fence if needed. (2) because of the thickness of the base piece is needed to hold fasteners/bolts from below to slide the top piece forward and back. I can not see/think of any way to reduce its thickness or a safety substitute material to preform this function.
> ...


John:

I'm having trouble following you. Can you draw up an example under Sketchup?


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## john880 (Aug 18, 2010)

No I am afraid my training was with an automatic-T square/parallel bar plastic triangles.

What my in tensions are to get the small piece back on the table. By cutting back further the shallow cut already into the lower board. Then extending the two griping pieces down just above the table (1/16") to not cause any more resistance, by the said two griping boards, while the jig it is being moved. Yet still being able to grip. This would allow a normal setting height of the bit/s. But leaving the upper board basic construction alone. Except---the back & forth adjustment/cut would have to be lengthen to allow that top board to slide back further. On the cut of the lower board I would make the sides to front edge a 90 degree to assist holding the shall piece by its shoulder/s.

Plus the additions above.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

john880 said:


> Hello woodworkers,
> I too have the need for a small parts jig for my table. I regularly post over in the area that this jig came from, and ask the question looking for there. I like the concept of this jig but did not like the clamp idea, used to counter the torque of the bit/s. But coming here like the second improved version posted by gregW and agree on page 2 of his summation. So here is a idea on this jig, I would like to throw out, for more opinions.
> 
> Lets take the 1/2" base. (1) It slides against the fence if needed. (2) because of the thickness of the base piece is needed to hold fasteners/bolts from below to slide the top piece forward and back. I can not see/think of any way to reduce its thickness or a safety substitute material to preform this function.
> ...


The base could also be made of 1/4" plexi or even tempered hardboard (Masonite), and the mounting screws for the hardware countersunk from below. The "guide board" provides plenty of rigidity. I'd also add a second keeper block, so both sides of the work piece are held in position.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

john880 said:


> No I am afraid my training was with an automatic-T square/parallel bar plastic triangles.


You too? It took me a dog's age to figure out the basics of sketchup. I still can't do pipes and pipe joints.

My "quick fix" is to draw it out on quad paper and take a picture of it with a digital camera. Easy upload.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

*learning SketchUp*

SketchUp - I had the same problem coming from what I call the pencil-twisting realm. Try as I might, I just couldn't "get" the SketchUp paradigm. Dave Richards on the FineWoodworking site got me over my paradigm block.

Tim Killens e-book is also good for learning SketchUp from a woodworker's perspective:

Sketch-Up Guide for Woodworkers (eBook) - eBooks - Woodworking - Taunton Store


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Many forget they have a clamp jig for small parts hanging right with the other clamps a wooden hand screw clamps work well for many small parts, they come in 4" to 12" the norm...

==========


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## john880 (Aug 18, 2010)

Hello Ralph, You know I too tried thinking of a lot small base. Like tempered board & even Lexan a much more resistant material than plex. But guy these are not screws, but bolts, and after counter-sinking the heads into 1/4" material from below to allow a smooth gliding surface. How thick would the remaining material be left above them to allow a sufficient strength to tighten down the knobs from above? Thus the 1/2" thick base board. I even thought of metal---aluminum, still,,,,,,,???

A very good friend says, "John what else have you got but time, or is it just being lazy"?? ( on the learning curve of the computer aid drawing CAD) My truthful answer to him & to my self from going to my drafting bench already set up with a seal puncture recovery rubber pad & several pads of different types of large drafting paper. Above this a good parallel bar & loads of triangles & many hours of experience. I can visualize what I want or to re-draw from an alteration, and due it in a lot less time than the grievance form learning not one, but many facets into the realm of CAD. A whole lot less time, at least for me. But in more ways that I care to admit, I have become a dinosaur.

Hi Bob3, Yelp that's what I have used and learned over the years its about the best clamp for the job. I still get this felling though when routing these pieces. If I only could get my hands closer, maybe out to the sides just aft of the bits I would have a whole lot more control. But above all, way above,,,,,to do it SAFETY. That little voice that says, "Don't go there JOHN,,,,,,,,,,,!!!!"


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

john880 said:


> Hello Ralph, You know I too tried thinking of a lot small base. Like tempered board & even Lexan a much more resistant material than plex. But guy these are not screws, but bolts, and after counter-sinking the heads into 1/4" material from below to allow a smooth gliding surface. How thick would the remaining material be left above them to allow a sufficient strength to tighten down the knobs from above? Thus the 1/2" thick base board. I even thought of metal---aluminum, still,,,,,,,???


It's a simple matter to replace the bolts, or over-priced T-bolts the retailers like us to associate with these nifty threaded knobs, with flat-head machine screws, which can be countersunk easily. Since there is almost no load stress on the fasteners holding the base and the guide board together, those knobs don't need to be torqued to a high level, just snug. Most of the forces exerted on the jig during use will be on the (much thicker) guide board and the stock-retainer blocks attached to the guide board.

As such, I think it's reasonable to sacrifice a little strength in the base (where it is not really required) for the advantage of not having to raise the bit as much as with a thicker base. 

At least that's my approach to the design. Not everyone needs to agree, though.


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## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

Very nice jig, think I can even add this to my carport shop. Thats the shop where everything is stored in the closet and dragged out as needed.


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

Thank you for that. I've been using vice grips for small stock routing.

With moderate success. ":^)

Thanks,
Mike


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I will say put the vice grips back in the tool box, if you are doing parts that small I would suggest you tack the parts to a board (pin nails work great) but the vice grips do like to let go easy and steel and router bits should not be mixed..


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mpbc48 said:


> Thank you for that. I've been using vice grips for small stock routing.
> 
> With moderate success. ":^)
> 
> ...


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

Pin nails is a great suggestion.

Thanks,
Mike


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Like some others I too am trying to figure out some of the missing dimensions....for the sake of 5 minutes you would think the creator would get it half right....aahh...there...I have had my rant and feel better already............AL


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## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

RLFX said:


> Hi all seen this today thought some one might need one !!


I was just going to build this one but I like the addition of the depth adjustment on yours.


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## john880 (Aug 18, 2010)

hi there Racer 2007,
in looking over you submission I like the idea of the vertical handles, yelp that I do.

Al, How many time in the latter part of my career (pencil pushers aria), was spent in trying to figure out where the engineers drawing (my job was to make his work in the real world) put that dimension. After a couple of phone calls I got to know the guy pretty well. With an answer at the other end something like, "You Again, what did I do this time" Now from what I am told the CAD system knows this all ahead of time, and my fellow followers in my trade does not get to know the man by voice any more.

I like to take this time to thank this router forms personnel, for the posting into my e-mail the, "nudging of my conscience", for me to to drop over to keep up with my interest in the posting on this form. I some times get involved into other diversified attractions and completely over look what I found so rewarding over here. Thanks Again to the powers that are behind that curtain so to speak. Here, Here, (!!) as the English across the pond appropriatly express it.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Cheers

Peter


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## hoheboe1 (Mar 19, 2011)

I can definitely use that. I enjoy making small scale.


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## RLFX (Nov 20, 2009)

Your welcome guys glad you like it .. I use mine every day ..


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Randy


Nice jig, but I must say you should never route small parts on the router table with or without a holder, once you find out how safe and easy it can be done with a ski jig you will hang your jig up on the wall right next to the pictures of the nasty fingers that have been posted on the forum as of late, it's just not worth the risk to do it on the router table..
That little voice in your head telling , no , no , should be the tip off.

========


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## sergiozal (Feb 7, 2011)

hmmm... thanks for posting it. Nest project will definitely need something like this.


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