# Craftex CT052 12" Dovetail Jig



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Well I went out and bought a dovetail jig at BUsyBee Tools and decided to give it a test drive. It felt like racing in the Indy 500 after 500 laps I was ready to toss in the yellow flag:angry:

I tried to follow the instruction but I have to say the instruction are very poorly written and I could not understand some of the instructions. I decided to drive out to the store and ask some questions and hopefully get my issue resolved. The two guys in the store had absolutely no clue what I was asking and it was like I was driving at night and caught them in the middle of the road if you know what I mean.

I was very disappointed and I wasted a whole day on this useless jig. I can not get the dovetail to even fit into the mating piece.

Not sure if anyone else has tried this but I would not recommend this product. Lets say it was a waste of $65.00. I would take it back but because I bought it a few months ago and did not take it out right away I will have to settle on a store credit. Not sure what the difference is but nerveless I am not happy.

If anyone has used this and got good results please tell me how you did it. For me this is not working.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Well I went out and bought a dovetail jig at BUsyBee Tools and decided to give it a test drive. It felt like racing in the Indy 500 after 500 laps I was ready to toss in the yellow flag:angry:
> 
> I tried to follow the instruction but I have to say the instruction are very poorly written and I could not understand some of the instructions. I decided to drive out to the store and ask some questions and hopefully get my issue resolved. The two guys in the store had absolutely no clue what I was asking and it was like I was driving at night and caught them in the middle of the road if you know what I mean.
> 
> ...


Hi Dan - Sorry to hear you're havin trouble. I haven't got that jig but I've read it is very similar to Rockler which I do have. Here is a link to the Rockler instructions, upper left corner of the page:
Rockler's Complete Dovetail Jig with FREE Dovetail Jig Dust Collector - Rockler Woodworking Tools
I found these instructions pretty decent for half-blinds but got lost as a $2 hunting dog on the box joint instructions. Maybe you'll have better luck


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks will check it out!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Ok John that look way to easy. Have you used this jig? Is it really that easy?


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I will one day get into making boxes and will need a dove tail jig I am sure but for now stools will have to do. Hope you get a handle on yours.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Ok John that look way to easy. Have you used this jig? Is it really that easy?


Yeah, dovetails, at least the half blind ones come out pretty decent. jig is a PIA to setup so I have it pretty much welded together. The comb is on a 1" frequency so I set it up with 5 1/2" wide stock. When I got the half joint at the top and bottom of the board equal I locked every thing down. Now, I make all of my boxes to the next higher half inch. If I need a box, say 4 3/4, I use 5 1/2 inch stock, cut the joint then rip 3/8" off each edge. Lot easier than trying to set the thing up every time. One other thing, if yours has the plastic edge guides, make ding-dong certain they are square, both up and down and front to back. One other thing I did. I have a little Craftsman router I inherited that is nearly as much PIA to set depth on as the jig is to set up. Once I got that set up, the dovetail bit lives there. Now I've got the jig and router preset so doing boxes isn't much of an issue. 
Good Luck....


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

http://busybeetools.com/manuals/CT052.pdf

Dovetail Machine
http://manuals.harborfreight.com/manuals/34000-34999/34102.pdf


H0983 Dovetail Jig w/ Aluminum Template
http://cdn3.grizzly.com/manuals/h0983_m.pdf

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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I believe the Rockler jig uses 7/8" increments on stock width to end up with the traditional half pins top & bottom of dovetails & I think many like this jig use this measurement also. Example of sizing would be 2-5/8", 3-1/2", 4-3/8", 5-1/4", 6-1/8", etc to end up with the half pins top & bottom of joint. 

The PC jig uses 1" + 1/4" increments for sizing dovetails. The sizing would be 2-1/4", 3-1/4", 4-1/4", 5-1/4", & so on. A 5" opening would have drawer parts ripped to the 4-1/4" size to center the joint with half pins top & bottom. If making boxes just size your parts using these rules for the jig you are using to end up with symmetrical joints. No need to cut material after you machine joint to center dovetails.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I am using the PC 890 series router. Setting the depth is not to bad but I am using the plunge base. This might sound like a stupid question but should I use the fixed base and then set depth so it is locked in place and adjust via the adjuster it came with?


BJ I have the manual and noticed the donwloadeable one is didderent than the one that came with the jig. The say to adjust the bit depth from 11/16" in the manual and the online version says 19/32".

My problem is I am using 3/4" plywood for test cutting. I can not even get the pins to fit into the mating piece. How do I adjust this? Do I set the depth of the router bit deeper? I have tried it and it makes no difference.

I have checked to ensure the plastic pieces are set square. This is a bad design because if you follow the directions it lays out how to setup the jig but fails to mention you have to take the dam thing apart to move those plastic bars to ensure your top and bottom bars are offset 1/2".


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

i use this jig every day Easy to use Right out of the box The tales and pin's were right on And tight Very little learing curve So easy to use 

The Japan Woodworker Catalog - Gifkins Dovetail and Box Jig 

It is better with 2 routers and 2 tables I make 100's of box's and other things The jig cost's But if you are only making a few item's than not worth it With a single router And bit change's Thing's arn't going to be fun To much messing around Getting the bit's set up after each change With this jig only set up once for each dovetales and pin's You cut both No bit change Of course if you are going to do a few item's and that's it Not worth the 2 set ups I bought the Ridgid kit's one router and table for $99.00 each Not a bad price They work fine Good luck


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> I am using the PC 890 series router. Setting the depth is not to bad but I am using the plunge base. This might sound like a stupid question but should I use the fixed base and then set depth so it is locked in place and adjust via the adjuster it came with?


Hi Dan,
I would use the fixed base when using the dovetail jig. It is better suited for this kind of operation. For through dovetails it is nice to have two routers set up with each bit if possible. With half-blind dovetails you only need the one bit setup as you machine both sides of the joint at the same time. 

I would watch the Woodsmith video (in the sticky section on the tools & woodworking forum on this site) for making machine cut dovetails. It will have a lot of info on setup you might be able to use. He uses the PC jig for the demo but also touches a little on other jigs.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

I have had that type of jig for a long time and it's a real PITA to setup I could tell you how to fix the built in error of the jig but it would take more time than just to tell you to just pack it back up and get a EZ Jig and use it if you don't want to use that lame type of jig use a EZ Dovetail jig,it sells for about 40.oo bucks in the states and the manual is one page because you just don't need it ,it's that simple to setup and use anyone can use it, but I do suggest buying a longer shank dovetail bit and a extra lock shaft collet ring and a extra bearing if you can swing it..it comes with all you need but the bearing likes to slip on the shaft..and it's bit short..

You could call the EZ jig a lower price Katie and Gifkin but it's works just as well and you don't need to put out 250.oo + on one..

The General Tools & Instruments Newsroom | The EZ Pro Dovetail Jig Instructional Videos


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TRN_Diesel said:


> I am using the PC 890 series router. Setting the depth is not to bad but I am using the plunge base. This might sound like a stupid question but should I use the fixed base and then set depth so it is locked in place and adjust via the adjuster it came with?
> 
> 
> BJ I have the manual and noticed the donwloadeable one is didderent than the one that came with the jig. The say to adjust the bit depth from 11/16" in the manual and the online version says 19/32".
> ...


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks BJ for the additional links and info. I am quickly learning sometimes you just have to try things and see how they feel for you. I bought a how to video on making drawers by Andy Rae. 

I think what I will do is put aside the router and go OLD SCHOOL and cut my first dovetail joint by hand. I am in the process of making a how to guide for NEWBIES like me and will post my progress with lots of pictures. 

I have a friend who has the Leigh D4R-PRO Dovetail Jig and has offered to let me trial it as well. I will take this PIA dovetail jig back to BusyBee Tools and get a store credit to buy some clamps I require.

The idea of making the dovetail joints by hand is appealing and sort of relaxing in a funny sort of way. It also lets me buy a new tool namely the dovetail saw which I do not have and some nice dovetail chisels. 

Once again this forum has helped me and I want to thank everyone for the advise and helpful suggestions. It has inspired me to take it to the next step of becoming a better woodworker.

Well I have alot of wood to plane down to size so I better get at it. 

Stay tune for a new thread entitled "Hand Cut Dovetails"


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Dan
> 
> I have had that type of jig for a long time and it's a real PITA to setup I could tell you how to fix the built in error of the jig but it would take more time than just to tell you to just pack it back up and get a EZ Jig and use it if you don't want to use that lame type of jig use a EZ Dovetail jig,it sells for about 40.oo bucks in the states and the manual is one page because you just don't need it ,it's that simple to setup and use anyone can use it, but I do suggest buying a longer shank dovetail bit and a extra lock shaft collet ring and a extra bearing if you can swing it..it comes with all you need but the bearing likes to slip on the shaft..and it's bit short..
> 
> ...


Wow I just watched the video BJ, can it be that easy? I like the idea you can use this on a router table. 

Man now you have me really thinking of getting one of these.

P.S.
Hi my name is Dan and I am a tool addict!:help:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Your Welcome Dan

Cutting dovetail by hand is a art and I have done many of them it takes years to get them done right, keep the wood stove handy you will make your share of fire wood I'm sure , it's a job you can have fun with on a cold day or late night in the shop when you want to unwind from a long day at work, the old way is great way to relax  in the shop with a cup of coffee and some hand tools.. good luck  nothing like a cup of joe with the hint of maple chips in the coffee..


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TRN_Diesel said:


> Thanks BJ for the additional links and info. I am quickly learning sometimes you just have to try things and see how they feel for you. I bought a how to video on making drawers by Andy Rae.
> 
> I think what I will do is put aside the router and go OLD SCHOOL and cut my first dovetail joint by hand. I am in the process of making a how to guide for NEWBIES like me and will post my progress with lots of pictures.
> 
> ...


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*NASA called in to help*

After talking on the phone at length NASA decided to send there top astronaut down and troubleshoot my problem. Though he was small he was very helpful and managed to get me to cut a dovetail with this PIA jig.

It still is going back into the box and back to BusyBee Tools but I wanted to thank Mac for all is help.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Your Welcome Dan
> 
> Cutting dovetail by hand is a art and I have done many of them it takes years to get them done right, keep the wood stove handy you will make your share of fire wood I'm sure , it's a job you can have fun with on a cold day or late night in the shop when you want to unwind from a long day at work, the old way is great way to relax  in the shop with a cup of coffee and some hand tools.. good luck  nothing like a cup of joe with the hint of maple chips in the coffee..
> 
> ...


Ok I could not help it I ordered one online BJ so if my wife calls explain to her what a great jig it is.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Let me know how that jig works for you Dan. I was seriously interested in it, but the shipping cost threw me. If it's worth it, I'll bite


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

CanuckGal said:


> Let me know how that jig works for you Dan. I was seriously interested in it, but the shipping cost threw me. If it's worth it, I'll bite


Ok I i wll Debbie. The shipping cost here was only about $15.00 all in.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Dan:



TRN_Diesel said:


> After talking on the phone at length NASA decided to send there top astronaut down and troubleshoot my problem. Though he was small he was very helpful and managed to get me to cut a dovetail with this PIA jig.
> 
> It still is going back into the box and back to BusyBee Tools but I wanted to thank Mac for all is help.


Not too fast. The craftex is one of the nicer implementations of the jig. There are a bunch that are more money and less complete. The craftex manual is also the best I've seen of that type of jig.

All dovetail jigs have the same problem. They are a real pain in the butt to setup. However, once setup, they produce very nice results. You'll go grey and hairless during setup though. 

As I see it, you have two choices, pay for a jig and learn to use it or learn to do it by hand. Personally, I don't own a chisel that's accurate enough to replace a dovetail bit. So, I'll opt for the jig. Next the question becomes, cheap or way out there expensive. No matter which one you get, they all have the same problem. Porter Cable tried to overcome the problem with their little depth stops but that only confuses the problem more. If you're lucky and have all of the pieces perfectly sized for their jig, things work perfectly. Unfortunately, in spite of all of my machinery, I can't seem to get the perfect size stock for their jig.

Yes, setting the depth of the router bit is the real PIA. You can have everything else perfect -- and I do -- but if the router bit is not set perfectly, it ain't gonna work. The only way to set the router bit perfectly -- do a test cut -- chop it off with the mitre saw, adjust one way or the other -- do another test cut -- you get so tired and frustrated with test cuts you wonder if you're still sane.

If you have already produced acceptable results, refine your results and consider yourself lucky. Once you're happy with the result _DON'T CHANGE ANYTHING_ including the router which you will carefully put in a glass case on the wall for use exclusively in the preparation of your next dovetail job. You will not produce drawers of any other size or shape but those your jig is setup for. I would also recommend a glass case for the jig, if you have space.

I list 8 jigs that are horrendously expensive. I also list some 9 versions of your jig all in varying stages of completeness. Believe it or not, take off the edge guides and cam locks and there are vendors that sell the result for several times more money and they call it the "pro" version in some cases.

Then there's Richard Stottmann's dovetail template master. Goto Stots.com and check out his offering. He doesn't sell the jig, he sells the capability of making the jig. He still has the same depth of cut problem as everyone else though.

Do you know the most frustrating part? After you've done the setup once, it doesn't get easier but you have the experience of the first setup it goes a lot quicker. Or at least it seems to.

If you need my notes, send me a pm and I'll send you a copy.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Ron

After spending two days on this I do know exactly what you are talking about. My problem was the depth stop on the router. I was not set properly and once I had the stop done it did work. I have one dresser and want to do through dovetails and this jig wont do it. 

The jig also will not work on material less than 5/8" think or less and I want my back piece to be 1/2" thick. Anything for my eye looks to thick.

Size of the drawers width wise is also a problem. I see why it is faster to cut by hand because I have three different size drawers. So by the time I reset the jig I would have been better off cutting the joints by hand. 

Craftex 7/16" bushing was not seating itself in the router base plate it moved around on me I had to buy a PC bushing. Personally most of the stuff I find there is sub par in my honest opinion and the people there just sell the stuff rather than actually know what they are selling let alone use any of it.

I was very disappointed with the manual and like I stated there are two manuals from what I have seen on the same jig. The one that comes with the jig is different than the downloaded one. The precise measurement is different for setting the depth of cut and hence why I had so many problems with it initially. I would venture to say if someone like Harry Sin wrote the manual more people would be able to use it and not kill many trees in the process.

I see your point on a dedicated router and agree 100%. I was looking at getting one for the job but now that J has shown me the EX Pro Dovetail jig I will try using this in the router table and dedicate it as my dovetail jig. This jig looks like the pieces can be different size and be changed quickly.

Well I need to have a rest and hope the hair I pulled out along the way will grow back. I thin I can wash the grey right out of my hair or at least hum the tune as I work on hand cutting dovetails in the shop. 

Thanks for the reply Ron and Happy belated Canada Day!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

Just one note the EZ Dovetail jig will do both types of dovetails ( Blind and Through dovetails) with the same jig and and same finger template ,by using a longer dovetail bit ,the cutting blades on the dovetail bit need to be as tall as the wood ( say Through dovetails on 3/4" long cutters needed) the norm is 7 deg.or 8 deg. bit..they do look a bit strange but they work well.. 

16 pc 1/4 Shank Dovetail Router Bit Set For Leigh Jig - eBay (item 140422900315 end time Jul-08-10 11:00:04 PDT)

http://cgi.ebay.com/2-pc-Dovetail-R...=ViewItem&pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item1e5c9fdb29

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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Ron
> 
> After spending two days on this I do know exactly what you are talking about. My problem was the depth stop on the router. I was not set properly and once I had the stop done it did work. I have one dresser and want to do through dovetails and this jig wont do it.
> 
> ...


Hi Dan 
What size are the drawers you plan to make? What size drawer material are you using all 1/2" or just the backs of the drawers? 

For half-blinds once your jig is set up you should not have to reset anything even when changing drawer sizes or thicknesses. If you follow the sizing increments for each drawer your joint will come out symmetrical with half pins top & bottom. You can even change thickness of material with same setup because all machining is reference from inside of drawer. 

I have a Porter Cable jig setup for half-blind dovetails & a dedicated PC 690 router just for these joints. I have not touched the settings in either since initial setup. The drawers I make the most often are usually hard maple drawers machined down to 5/8" with half-blind dovetails. I can use any thickness for half-blinds from 1/2" to 1-1/8" & up to 11-1/4" wide joint without changing any of the setup. I'm sure many of the other jigs this size will have close to the same capabilities.

For the through dovetails I have two routers I will use for these for each bit. I still do not have to change the jig once setup for the different height drawers. For different thickness of material I change the depth to machine though.

You could always ask to use your friends jig for your project to get your feet wet & give it a spin. I know some jigs are easier to get used to than others, but once you figure your own jig out it's not that complicated anymore. The Woodsmith video is informative to watch also.

Tools and Woodworking - Router Forums


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## Bear Wood (Jan 13, 2018)

I would have totally agree with you - I've spent more time fixing the tool that getting anything out of it. Most the knobs have come loose and of course in in the middle of
routing a nice piece of walnut that now I can throw away. Totally disappointed in this jig hoping there's a better one out there.

Bear Wood


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

This is an old thread, but I am sorry to hear about your experience. After all the hassle with Dovetail joints and jigs and set-ups, and dedicated routers, I came to the conclusion that I like Box Joints best cut on the table saw with the Freud box joint blade. I have a simple homemade jig and it is easy and fast to set up and gives me consistant and acceptable results.
Herb


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I'm like Herb in that I'm okay with the finger/box joint. I bought the Ibox jig after using a home made one for a while. The Ibox has the advantage that you can set it according the cut width instead of setting the cut width according to what is required by the jig.

If I was going to buy a DT jig I think I would save up and buy a Leigh. You'd have to search to find a bad comment about them.


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