# Need A Finish For For Bowles That Can Be Eaten Out Of



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

I'm looking for a finish that can be used on bowls that can be eaten out of, and cleaned properly for future use.

Jerry
Colorado City, TX


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## 57759 (Apr 8, 2011)

Jerry Bowen said:


> I'm looking for a finish that can be used on bowls that can be eaten out of, and cleaned properly for future use.
> 
> Jerry
> Colorado City, TX


I wouldn't recommend Castor Oil. :lol:


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## andysden (Aug 9, 2011)

would keep you regular though Andy


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Jerry, this topic has come-up several times in the recent past. The answer is mineral oil, there are numerous other oils that do initially seem or appear to work that can eventually become rancid. Go to the drug store, and in the laxative section, there will be mineral oil. You cannot get anything any better than this. As a matter-of-fact, I was with Joy in the grocery store and was looking at some items made from bamboo. Also offered by the same manufacturer as the bamboo cutting boards, etc. was "Bamboo Conditioner" - the ingredients state "100% mineral oil". That's good enough for me. It, by the way; was not an economical way to buy mineral oil.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Grocery stores should also carry mineral oil.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

They're probably with the prunes!


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## paul11 (Jan 17, 2012)

Try Walnut oil. Not the kind sold in supermarkets, but the kind sold by woodworking websites. One such brand is Mahoney's Walnut oil. I have used it successfully for cutting boards. Easy to apply; dries quickly; no residue and easily renewable. Warm natural finish


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

I personally favor using a hand made Super Blonde Flake Shellac (dissolved in denatured alcohol), applying about 6-10 coats letting it vaporize between coats. Then a few extra coats using dauber with a few drops of Virgin Olive Oil to allow the polishing to occur (French Polish Technique). After that has dried and hardened, I use Furniture grade Walnut Oil liberally before and after using as a serving utensil. It is really water resistant and pretty high shine.

That's the finish I've used on my larger silver maple bowl, that I posted here last year, and it has held up to several family dinners, and washed with soap and water.


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

*From Texan To Texan, Safe finnish for eating.*



Jerry Bowen said:


> I'm looking for a finish that can be used on bowls that can be eaten out of, and cleaned properly for future use.
> 
> Jerry
> Colorado City, TX


Howdy Jerry,

I am not the smartest pickle in the barrel, but I believe Mineral oil can be applied on the lathe and will glaze well. Perfectly food safe from day one. I have used this on butcher block cutting boards and they stay nice for years. I believe mineral oil is the main component in an old gun-stock finish called True-Oil which I have used for a beautiful hand rubbed finish. I would also trust a quality Polyurethane after it has totally cured(one month or more).

Hope this helps

willway
Clyde Tx.


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## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

I can tell you from experience that mineral oil needs to be replenished frequently. Shellac, nowever, is non-toxic when dry, and can make a nice finish that lasts awhile.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Roger is exactly right on his two points. Mineral Oil does need to be replenished often, based on washing cycles of said bowl(s). Here's my way of thinking about this subject: There are quite a few natural oils that initially look very good. I even fabricated a tumbler to put a polish on my abacus parts. After much trial and error, I found that I was able to get a really beautiful finish (believe it or not) using shelled, raw peanuts and natural (unbleached) rice as my tumbling media. I made several units having utilized this procedure and was very proud of the finish that was produced. I took the finished Abacus, Soroban and Iota units upstairs to show-off to my wife. She complemented me on the finish and said it was my "best work ever"! Unfortunately, she pointed out something which I consider very important - *MANY PEOPLE HAVE ALLEGIES TO PEANUTS & TREE NUTS.* She reminded me of how highly allergic her secretary is - even to the point of having life-threatening reactions from simply touching an unshelled peanut! Since an Abacus is an instrument used to teach math to open-minded students, there is a very real possibility that someone (assume a youngster) may chew on one!...and, if that someone is allergic to peanuts - *BAM* - an allergic may be the result! I would die if I knew I had been a part of this, so I went to strictly MINERAL OIL. Again, there are many finishes that look good, but to my knowledge MINERAL OIL is safe to everyone. The units created with peanut-treated parts were all destroyed.


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

This is an oft asked question that comes up in another woodworking forum that I frequent (Woodnet Forums) - the main problem is that those oil recommendations, such as mineral oil, are non-drying, disappear quickly, and need frequent re-applications; also 'cleaning' becomes a consideration (i.e. use of water on an unprotected wood surface). Other oils used for cooking may go rancid, so a finish that dries and may be somewhat more protective might be the best choice? Also a bunch of combo finishes using melted wax of various types are favored by some.

However, the bottom line is that any wood finish once dried and cured is food safe - just some links: Wood Magazine - Sawmill Creek - WoodNet Forums - so, just plenty of choices depending on your own preferences as outlined above and discussed here by others and elsewhere -


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## Woodshaper67 (Jan 13, 2012)

Go to packardwoodworks.com


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

Woodshaper67 said:


> Go to packardwoodworks.com


Hi *Keith* - well, not very helpful - use the URL option next time as below:

Packard Woodworks

Also, this opened to a home page? Not sure, where in this website that you wanted us to look - please advise - thanks. Dave


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## Woodshaper67 (Jan 13, 2012)

Simple go to their web site and click finishes


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

OPG3 is absolutely correct about nut oils. I had a friend whose daughter died from eating on chocolate candy made in the same equipment as candies made with peanuts. However the French Polish technique with flake shellac, denatured or pure grain alcohol, and a mineral or olive oil as a lubricant at final coats is a very durable, water repellent, and repairable finish for bowls. Mineral oil by itself will need to be replenished every time you clean the bowls, and frankly I only use as a lubricant for gemstone cutting with diamond compounds on cloth pads. After having a few colonoscopies, I have quite an aversion to mineral oils, as you drink a concoction of it prior to the procedure to clean out your digestive tract.


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## jack3140 (Aug 24, 2012)

paul11 said:


> Try Walnut oil. Not the kind sold in supermarkets, but the kind sold by woodworking websites. One such brand is Mahoney's Walnut oil. I have used it successfully for cutting boards. Easy to apply; dries quickly; no residue and easily renewable. Warm natural finish


just to satisfy my curiosity . i have horses and avoid walnut shavings for bedding as they are toxic to horses and causes them to founder, would not the oil be toxic as well? just wondering regards jack


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

jack3140 said:


> just to satisfy my curiosity . i have horses and avoid walnut shavings for bedding as they are toxic to horses and causes them to founder, would not the oil be toxic as well? just wondering regards jack


I don't believe the Walnut Oil has the tannic acid in it that the shavings have. I'd have to do some research to find out what the toxic ingredient really is though. The oil is safe for humans, but if they have nut allergies, mineral oil is the alternative. And of course, maybe don't make bowls from nut producing woods - ie., walnut, hickory, pecan, butternut, etc.


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## jack3140 (Aug 24, 2012)

mgdesigns said:


> I don't believe the Walnut Oil has the tannic acid in it that the shavings have. I'd have to do some research to find out what the toxic ingredient really is though. The oil is safe for humans, but if they have nut allergies, mineral oil is the alternative. And of course, maybe don't make bowls from nut producing woods - ie., walnut, hickory, pecan, butternut, etc.


thanks just wondering with all the chemicals nowadays one has to be wary regards jack


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