# Lubricant For Table Saw??



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

The cranks or wheels on my table saw have never been easy to turn. The one that raises and lowers the blade is not to bad, just not smooth and not without squeaking.

The one that tilts the blade has not been real difficult just bad enough to cause me to dread to some degree the need to crank the blade over to it's 45 degree position.

Until now I have used powdered graphite with only some satisfaction. Most of the problem with it has to do with the difficulty of getting the substance onto the areas where it is needed and it does not last very long.

I suspect that the high priced saws do not have this problem, or at least I would hope not.

My saw has been setting idle now for over six months and the crank that does the tilt is more difficult that ever to turn and this difficulty has caused me to start this thread to find out what others use and how, what ever is used, is applied to the hard to get to mechanisms?

Jerry


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Man I've led a cloistered life, I never heard of powdered graphite till today. Jerry I have no offer of a substance to help ease the miter and elevator gear, everything I ever tried caused more debris to stick to the gears than prior to the attempt. What I have done over the yrs with my Delta 36-954 is wire brush and blow the gears clear of debris. I've always accessed the innards via the motor housing cover and throat plate, its a P.I.T.A. but better than attempting to upend it.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Ghidrah said:


> Man I've led a cloistered life, I never heard of powdered graphite till today. Jerry I have no offer of a substance to help ease the miter and elevator gear, everything I ever tried caused more debris to stick to the gears than prior to the attempt. What I have done over the yrs with my Delta 36-954 is wire brush and blow the gears clear of debris. I've always accessed the innards via the motor housing cover and throat plate, its a P.I.T.A. but better than attempting to upend it.



Ronald,
Perhaps we will both gain some helpful information from posts that hopefully are forth coming.

I had, assumed that a saw like the one that you have would not as sussectable to the problem that I am dealing with. Guess I was wrong.

Jerry


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Tri-flow with PTFE (dry lubricant)...

A teensy weensy goes a long way...

Make sure the surfaces are very clean first...


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Several years ago I bought PALS for my contractor table saw. The owner of the company (InLineIndustries) also sent me a VHS tape demonstrating how to add grease fittings to the table saw to make blade raising/lowering and tilting very easy. These functions can now be done with ease and no squeaks. It took a couple of hours but well worth it. I had had this conversation with another forum member and told him I would have the VHS converted to DVD format and send to him. But, I'm not sure if this is legit as I believe the company now sells the video.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

I really need to do something for my older Craftsman contractors saw. I've tried WD40 in the past and it works for awhile, but then collects sawdust which makes it worst. 
I don't tilt my blade very much so that part of it is really hard to do making me avoid that as much as possible. I've been trying to find a way to permanently and old drill motor to it so I don't have to crank it by hand only lock or unlock it in place.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I use leftover bicycle chain lube. It is a dry kind of waxy goop which put on the worm gears. It does not seem to attract saw dust.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Lubricant For Table Saw??
> 
> Jerry


Nickp beat me to it...
just go get some...

and jack slap the 1st one that says to use WD-40...

EOS...


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

coxhaus said:


> I use leftover bicycle chain lube. It is a dry kind of waxy goop which put on the worm gears. It does not seem to attract saw dust.


Oh wow thanks Lee, I never thought about that. I just bought some white lightning bicycle lube from Amazon I wounder how that will work.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Oh wow thanks Lee, I never thought about that. I just bought some white lightning bicycle lube from Amazon I wounder how that will work.


White lightening is actually what I have and used. It seems to work great. But I am no expert. I had it laying around.

PS
I just looked at my bottle and it is 9.5 oz. Maybe it was cheaper in the old days.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Nickp said:


> Tri-flow with PTFE (dry lubricant)...
> 
> A teensy weensy goes a long way...
> 
> Make sure the surfaces are very clean first...



Thank you Nick, sounds like just the answer to what Ronald and myself are looking for.

I suspect that there are several others on the forum that can benefit from your suggestion.

I looked on line for it and not only does it look very bood, but the ability to get the stuff into tight places sounds encourageing to me.

I'm going to order several of the two ounce bottles, they are very inexpensive.

Jerry


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Thank you Nick, sounds like just the answer to what Ronald and myself are looking for.
> 
> I suspect that there are several others on the forum that can benefit from your suggestion.
> 
> ...


good move Jerry...


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Nick, I see that the product in question is available in aerosol containers. Which container do suggest?

Jerry


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

JIMMIEM said:


> Several years ago I bought PALS for my contractor table saw. The owner of the company (InLineIndustries) also sent me a VHS tape demonstrating how to add grease fittings to the table saw to make blade raising/lowering and tilting very easy. These functions can now be done with ease and no squeaks. It took a couple of hours but well worth it. I had had this conversation with another forum member and told him I would have the VHS converted to DVD format and send to him. But, I'm not sure if this is legit as I believe the company now sells the video.


Jim if it is copyrighted you shouldn't post it on the forum. What you do in private through mutual consent is a choice you have to make. It is possible in some cases to find this stuff on Youtube and posting a link to it has been allowed. If there is an issue it is Youtube's problem and not ours. That doesn't necessarily make it ethical but we are not legally liable in that case.

As for the lube issue I have to agree with the dry silicone or teflon based dry lubes. Anything gooey or sticky or wet and oily will attact sawdust and could make the problem way worse. The manual that came with my unisaw also suggested to periodically take a piece of cord that would fit into the root of the adjustment screws and to wrap it and rotate up and down the screw to clean the gullets of the threads. Unless something is binding then the only reason saws should be hard to adjust is dirt in the operating mechanism.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Jim if it is copyrighted you shouldn't post it on the forum. What you do in private through mutual consent is a choice you have to make. It is possible in some cases to find this stuff on Youtube and posting a link to it has been allowed. If there is an issue it is Youtube's problem and not ours. That doesn't necessarily make it ethical but we are not legally liable in that case.
> 
> As for the lube issue I have to agree with the dry silicone or teflon based dry lubes. Anything gooey or sticky or wet and oily will attact sawdust and could make the problem way worse. The manual that came with my unisaw also suggested to periodically take a piece of cord that would fit into the root of the adjustment screws and to wrap it and rotate up and down the screw to clean the gullets of the threads. Unless something is binding then the only reason saws should be hard to adjust is dirt in the operating mechanism.



Cord in the gullets, I had been wondering how I was going to clean them, in my case it will need a helper as I cannot hold the cord and turn the wheel at the same time due to the need to be cleaned.

By the way, I ordered both the spray and the drip, kinda like wearing belt and suspenders.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Nick, I see that the product in question is available in aerosol containers. Which container do suggest?
> 
> Jerry


both...
shake really well before applying..


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Jim if it is copyrighted you shouldn't post it on the forum. What you do in private through mutual consent is a choice you have to make. It is possible in some cases to find this stuff on Youtube and posting a link to it has been allowed. If there is an issue it is Youtube's problem and not ours. That doesn't necessarily make it ethical but we are not legally liable in that case.
> 
> As for the lube issue I have to agree with the dry silicone or teflon based dry lubes. Anything gooey or sticky or wet and oily will attact sawdust and could make the problem way worse. The manual that came with my unisaw also suggested to periodically take a piece of cord that would fit into the root of the adjustment screws and to wrap it and rotate up and down the screw to clean the gullets of the threads. Unless something is binding then the only reason saws should be hard to adjust is dirt in the operating mechanism.


I will not post it. Open invite to come to my house to watch it....I still have a VHS machine. Somebody had seen the InLine Industries gentleman at a woodworking show doing demos and noted that he was raising/lowering and tilting his table saw blade with one finger. He asked how he did it and the video was born. Simple modification...hard part is wrestling with the saw to turn it upside down.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

The skill and/or abiiity to install grease zerks is far above my job description, but the lube should be a big step in the right directions.

I went out to the shop and air line to blow the dust out of the mechanism of the parts in question in this thread. In that I have never used anything but the powdered graphite, there was gunk, only dust and dirt. The air hose got 90% of the the stuff, I'll clean it up some more with some type of cleaner like acetone. 

The new lube won't arrive for about a week. I'll certainly post the results.

Jerr


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I use Johnsons Paste Wax, applied with an old tooth brush, for the gears and ways of my Unisaw. It does a great job of lubricating and it develops a dry crust on it's surface that doesn't collect saw dust like regular grease does. For the shaft bearing points I use Tri Flow
but only tiny amounts of it. I've been lubricating my table saws and waxing the tops with Johnsons Paste Wax for over 50 years. A friend gave me a can of Butchers Wax once, and it worked about the same, but when I decided to buy another can of it, sticker shock made me go back to Johnsons Paste Wax and I'm still using it. A can lasts me about 10 years.

Charley


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Thank you Nick, sounds like just the answer to what Ronald and myself are looking for.
> 
> I suspect that there are several others on the forum that can benefit from your suggestion.
> 
> ...


I guess I'm going to order some too.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Thank you Nick, sounds like just the answer to what Ronald and myself are looking for.
> 
> I suspect that there are several others on the forum that can benefit from your suggestion.
> 
> ...


Several is unnecessary...it lasts forever...

As to spray or drip, depends on access but either will work. I like the drip...easier to control...

We both have Stick to thank...he made me aware of it...I used to use white lube...clean, apply, clean, repeat...Triflow eliminates the repeat clean part...


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I'm guessing that regardless of the direction DC moves debris, (above or below the table), crap makes its way to the gears. I'm also guessing, the longer the gears remain stationary, the more the debris collects. For me brushing removed debris, running a dehumidifier in the shop keeps the rust to -0-. I wonder why the manufacturers never installed brushes to the sides of the gears to keep them clear.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Thanks for starting this thread Jerry.

Over the years I've run into the same problem as you have. I too used graphite occasionally, but the real solution is to get the crud out...not add to it with any kind of lubricant.

My present saw is less than a year old and the problem hasn't showed up yet thankfully. I think I might try compressed air (through a dryer) to keep the worst of the dust out of the mechanisms. But just in case, I think I will take Stick's advice as well.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

JIMMIEM said:


> I will not post it. Open invite to come to my house to watch it....I still have a VHS machine. Somebody had seen the InLine Industries gentleman at a woodworking show doing demos and noted that he was raising/lowering and tilting his table saw blade with one finger. He asked how he did it and the video was born. Simple modification...hard part is wrestling with the saw to turn it upside down.


Look through the PAL website. They may not have the exact video, but there are loads of videos and manuals they freely provide, more than enough info to figure anything out. A good start to looking is here:

Manuals | In-Line Industries

http://in-lineindustries.com/products/contractor-saw-pals/

http://in-lineindustries.com/education/manuals/pals-manual/

This is linked from their own web site and is made and approved by A line it - PALS install vid:


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I guess another issue caused by dirt buildup is worth mentioning while we are at it. When I got my unisaw I set the 0* and 45* stops. After I had used it for a while I noticed one day that the pointer wasn't on zero anymore. Crud had built up on the faces of the stops and wouldn't allow it to come back to zero and it may not have been going to a full 45 either. I cleaned them off but I also opened them up to go past zero and 45 and I measure to the right angle now. That way I know for sure it is right.


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## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

Don't know if anyone has recommended this...I use WD-40 Specialist spray that says it is Dirt and Dust Resistance, Dry Lube PTFE Spray. It comes in a rattle can so you have to shake it before using. Seems to work for me. Got it at one of the big box stores. Malcolm / Kentucky USA


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

There seems to be emphasis being put on using only a very small amount of the Tri Flow product. Other than the fact that not much of is is needed, is there some other reason to use it sparingly?

Charley, I do use Johnson's wax on the the cast iron tops. I had not thought of using it on the parts that raise, lower and tilt the blade. I have plenty of Johnson's wax and now have the Tri Flow on order. Which one of the two lubricates do you think would be best for me to use and why?

Jerry


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TriFlow for the moving parts...

very little is all that's needed/necessary...


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Charles,
I purposely set my -0- & 45 stops to allow for greater travel. I always use my machinist squares to set 90 and the Wixy for all other angles. The wixy is very close but I've seen the light at 90 when comparing the two so I stay with the square.


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## aganser (Nov 10, 2014)

I just researched this lubrication issue for my own TS rebuild. Here are some helpful sites good info:
- Lubricating table saw trunion gear teeth and worm gear @ Lubricating table saw trunion gear teeth and worm gear ?
- Solid Film Lubricants: A Practical Guide @ Solid Film Lubricants: A Practical Guide
- Clean and lube tables gears for easy adjustments, Fine Woodworking Magazine (attached)

Molybdenum disulfide (Moly), Teflon and graphite are the most commonly used materials; they provide low frictional resistance and good load bearing capacity. Example products are: CRC Dry Molly Lube, Dow Corning Molykote 321 Dry Film Lubricant, CRC Dry Graphite Lube, and Drislide Multi-Purpose Aerosol. All these are available online.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Ghidrah said:


> Charles,
> I purposely set my -0- & 45 stops to allow for greater travel. I always use my machinist squares to set 90 and the Wixy for all other angles. The wixy is very close but I've seen the light at 90 when comparing the two so I stay with the square.



A final check after using the mechist's square is to make a short cross cut and then flip on half over and butt it back up to where it came from, if the cut is square, there will be no gaps at the top or bottom of both faces. I'm saying that after you flip the first piece over, flip it back and then flip the other piece over and see if the fit is as it should be. The blade was not squre when the cut was made, the pieces won't match up tight like they will when the cut is correct.

I doubt if there is anybody out there that hasn't figured this out from day they bought their first saw.

Jerry


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

aganser said:


> I just researched this lubrication issue for my own TS rebuild. Here are some helpful sites good info:
> - Lubricating table saw trunion gear teeth and worm gear @ Lubricating table saw trunion gear teeth and worm gear ?
> - Solid Film Lubricants: A Practical Guide @ Solid Film Lubricants: A Practical Guide
> - Clean and lube tables gears for easy adjustments, Fine Woodworking Magazine (attached)
> ...


TriFlow is solid film...


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Nickp said:


> Several is unnecessary...it lasts forever...
> 
> As to spray or drip, depends on access but either will work. I like the drip...easier to control...
> 
> We both have Stick to thank...he made me aware of it...I used to use white lube...clean, apply, clean, repeat...Triflow eliminates the repeat clean part...



I did order only one each, spray and drip.
Jerry


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

kywoodchopper said:


> Don't know if anyone has recommended this...I use WD-40 Specialist spray that says it is Dirt and Dust Resistance, Dry Lube PTFE Spray. It comes in a rattle can so you have to shake it before using. Seems to work for me. Got it at one of the big box stores. Malcolm / Kentucky USA


As usual, I'm easily confused, is the WD 40 Specialist spray the same as, Dry Lube PTFE? You switched gears on me there and I don't understand. Are you talking about one product or not?

Jerry


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## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

I have found the dry Graphite is great. But first, I have found it better to be sure an clean as well as you can prior to using the Graphite. If you do not, it has a chance continue building up. I do not do a lot with mine very often. I am really new woodworking per say. But the same principles pertain to gears and chains and other machinery that I have used. Good Luck.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Tagwatts1;1105169
said:


> I have found the dry Graphite is great. Good Luck..


till it gets into/onto your wooden project and then all kinds of bad things tend to happen...
even w/ a small smuge of it...

*VOE...*


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> I did order only one each, spray and drip.
> Jerry


You will like it, Jerry...as soon as it looks like you need a little more, it's already too much. You can also spread it around with a thin cloth (cotton or piece of sheet)...

Make sure you shake the heck out of it before applying (every time).

It is very important the surfaces are clean - wire or nylon brush, air, etc...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> It is very important the surfaces are clean - wire or nylon brush, air, etc...


I like brake cleaner...
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Brakleen-...457226098&sr=1-2&keywords=brake+cleaner+spray


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Jerry,
Eventually, I sorta found that technique a waste of time, I'm too cheap and lazy to waste stock and time testing. Initially I used my 10" calibration blade and m. squares to set the arbor to 90, then "Hey Moe!" I discovered there can and usually is a difference between the calibration blade and the one actually used for the work, they rarely match.

So I began setting 90 with m. squares left and right of the work blade, simple and fast. If ever I have a discrepancy I assume its the blade and go fence side square. I have no exacting method to verify the .0001 accuracy of the squares I use, if there's an issue with the 90 cut I can't see it. The squares are great for 45 too albeit still trial and error, depending on the material used the more porous the less picky I am, the squares are great in conjunction with the incra 3000se


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## Shadowrider (Apr 1, 2015)

I use this. It dies to a wax type consistency but comes out thin and penetrates well.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Shadowrider said:


> I use this. It dies to a wax type consistency but comes out thin and penetrates well.


that's good stuff but hard to find....


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