# Super sled.......



## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Well, I finally pulled my head from my rear and remembered what DIY and woodworking was all about. 

I made my super sled base today. Used 1/2" thick Oak veneer plywood. I kept it the originally designed width of 24" but made the length only 30" versus 36", and I am making the fence 30" as well. I don't really need a 4' fence for what little I do, and when I do get to that point I am buying a new saw any way. I can always make a new fence and screw it to the same base, as well as cut new dado's for any differences in the miter slot mounting locations. The slots in the base are in the same location as designed though in reference to the center line ( 3,6,6 ) 
Got it cut to size, 3/8" through slots routed, and 3/4" dado shells cut in to those. Now I have to cut the fence, back plate, and the two miter guide arms. 

I guess I just needed to remember that this ( like all wood working projects ) is a chance to hone your skills on both the table saw and router table. Not just making some thing to be making it. The idea of making it all versus buying it put me off at 1st. Then I decided I was going to save up for a Cross cut sled. Well the more I thought about it the more I realized the above. It's not only cheaper to go all wood versus aluminum T-track but it hones your skill when your a newbie like me. Fingers crossed I should have her all done by the weekend. Stealing free time where I can through out the week after work that is LOL !

I picked up a piece of 3/4" x 4 x 24 UHWM from Rockler on sale over the weekend. I'll be using that for the miter slot rails. I am up in the air if I want to dado for them on the sled at all, or simply cut them to size, center it all up and use the double sided tape method with out a dado. That way I could move them in or out as needed with a new saw super easy. 
well see how it goes I reckon.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Please posts pics so we can follow along. I will need to make one of these for my TS soon so I like to see other's versions.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

I'll take a pic or two tonight then. 
Its no different then the original version aside from the length being 30" instead of 36" though.


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## kweinert (Jun 29, 2009)

I made one of those and had a couple of small problems.

First is that it's hard to use in that it doesn't slide well. I'm guessing that it's off just a tiny little bit. I used the Rockler slides which means that I had to mark holes and then drill/countersink for attaching them. I think that process got off just a tiny bit. While typing this I just remembered that those slides are a little bit adjustable and perhaps I can make a slight adjustment there.

Due to the way you make this sled I would recommend that you ensure you have it sliding well prior to attaching the fence as an adjustment later could throw that off.

One hint I read somewhere else is that when you're working on the runner attachment that you put 3 or 4 pennies in the bottom of the slot as that will raise the runner up just over the table top.

The other problem I had was putting the grooves in. I tried doing it on my (as it turns out, too) small router table. This meant that I didn't have room to do the inner slots and have the fence still on the table. So I clamped a guide on to the blank I was cutting and used it against the router table top.

This worked fine for one side, but I ran into a problem cutting the groove on the other side. I'll try to explain this, but it's going to have take some visualization on your part 

The problem was this: for one of the grooves the guide was running against the front of the router table. This worked just fine. The other side, however meant that either I was going to be supporting a majority of the board in the air or I could guide against the other side of the table top.

If this is your situation, don't do what I did.

What I did was to put the guide on so that it would be registering against the back side of the router table. I forgot one thing - (and you experts already know what I'm going to say) when it was against the front of the table the rotation of the router pulls the guide against the table.

The opposite happens on the other side.

Yes, my nice, straight groove isn't. It's much more groovy, man. 

I went ahead and finished up the sled as I'm not in the place where I can toss the piece of ply and start over. So far it's not been an issue as I've only had occasion to clamp a stop block to the fence and cut to length.

I think I can fix it by using an straight bit with a bearing, set up a set of guides around the hosed up groove and clean it out to a depth of 1/4". Then cut a replacement rectangle from 1/4" ply, put the groove and hole in it that should be there and then glue that new piece back into the area I prepared for it.

Just passing along a lesson learned - hopefully it helps someone.

(And, for once, I'm glad I can't post pictures yet - spares me the further embarrassment


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Ken! This is why other people's experiences are so helpful!


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Hello Duane. Sounds like you have it all together! Making what you can is not only a great way to gain experience, but a good way to begin design. There are differences on the fence design, and table, that a new tool doesn't work ad you hoped. Make sure that you look for anything that might hamper the tool, and you will be happy. Its is a great feeling to come up with a good working jig. Not only that, but a great way to keep the bank roll up so when you need something you can't build, You feel a little better that you haven't used it on the accessories that you can make. Good woodworking, and be safe


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Here's a pic of the sled base. Its not much to look at yet. 
I have to do some sanding and filling, cut the 3/4" through holes I forgot to cut when I routed the 3/4 dado.... ( LOL ! ) etc etc etc...

(This is the back side )










My dado's arent the straightest either, neither is my through cut smooth on all. 
I had to do the same thing you did with the board running on the table edge but I did rout from right to left. I just tried to much at one time on a couple for the 1st pass. 
I'll run a little profile sander down it and it'll be fine though. Maybe stick some sand paper on a pencil and run it up and down the through slots as well. Then fill the knots, maybe apply an all weather finish to protect it after all the pieces are cut and ready to assemble ?

Man it took for ever to lay out all the measurements for pilot hole locations though LOL!
That's the toughest part I think. After you get them all laid out your home free. Then the project sails along smoothly and relatively fast.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Just thought when looking at your slots that when I do them I use two different cutters and that somewhere there must be a suitable single one. I'm not thinking T-Slot ones, which would necessitate an access hole, just something with two different cutting diameters, with the smaller one at the outer end for cutting the slot and the wider one for the shoulders.


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## kweinert (Jun 29, 2009)

Groove Forming - Picture Hanging / Keyhole Bits

How about this? Since it's a keyhole slot you could start with a plunge cut. I know the supersled has the larger groove at 3/4 and the biggest one here is 5/8 - but would that matter?


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

3/4" inch rabbit bit and 3/8" straight cut are all you need for this project.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Duane867 said:


> 3/4" inch rabbit bit and 3/8" straight cut are all you need for this project.


You could also use a 3/4" bit for the non-through dado and they use that recess with a 3/4" OD guide bushing and a 3/8" bit for the through cut. The end of the dado would provide the stops for each end.

As I'm starting to learn, there's several ways to approach the same result!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I don't see any of the flaws you pointed out. Looks like a fine job. Using construction ply is not the same as using baltic birch which I think Nixon did with his. It's going to look and finish rough. As long as it works, that's all that matters. FWIW I was going to make mine out of ply as well. Baltic Birch is very dear here in Canada.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Thank's CanukGal  
That's not construction ply though  It's 1/2" oak veneer ply instead of 1/2" Birch veneer ply. I like the Oak veneer better then the Birch veneer. I can't find Birch plywood other then veneered types around here any way. The Birch veneer found here dents easily and scratches easily compared to the oak. It may be the flash, or the angle of the photo I took ? The grain stands out but its as smooth as a babies bottom to the touch. 

Scored pretty good from work today guys and dolls. 
Noticed they were throwing out a crap load of 3/4" MDF scraps from a long since finished project. Of course it found its way in to my trunk before days end LOL ! Excellent jig material. I reckon I ended up with about 60-70 pieces 3/4" thick x 12" - 13" W x 24" L. I can make all sort of crap out that stuff. Sacrificial fences, patterns, Jiggs, and practice some on it as well. 

I made my two Miter guides tonight after work from two pieces of the MDF scrap. I am undecided if I will leave them 24" or cut them down as I have marked yet or not. I my leave them 24" and make a 48" fence after all for the new saw when I get it ? I'll be using 1/4" ply to cover the T-channel I routed then using the 3/8" straight cut to route the bolt channel out. Those handles stick up about 1" from the work piece so there is more room then the pic lets on for them to pass right over the DIY T-track half as they spin. I'll make stop blocks for the fence, as well as the guides after I get my new saw in the next two weeks or so. I could use the compound miter though I reckon ?

I found that a person can use a 5/8" straight cut bit for the lower half of the DIY T-track and then shim it out a hair for a final pass and that will allow a T-bolt to pass as well. So all one really needs is a 5/8" straight cut, and a 3/8" straight cut bit. Which makes it that much easier if you have a small wimpy router like I do due to the smaller contact area of the 5/8" straight cut. Found out just what a POS my bargain saw was as well while trying to cut the MDF. Yep... I'll not be adding the dado's for the sliding rails yet, or raising the blade up through it just yet. Gonna wait it out and buy a new Table saw instead of using this dangerous bastard. I'll keep the base and make a table or something. Hang on to the table top for possible use in a future project, but this piece of crap table saw is going in the garbage this Sunday evening before it kills some one.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

kweinert said:


> Groove Forming - Picture Hanging / Keyhole Bits
> 
> How about this? Since it's a keyhole slot you could start with a plunge cut. I know the supersled has the larger groove at 3/4 and the biggest one here is 5/8 - but would that matter?


Hi

Got one, but you need to plunge a hole first. I was thinking of a bit with the diameters reversed.

Cheers

Peter


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Good news ! That BT3000 I found on Craigslist is still available and about 20 miles up the road from me. I'll more then likely have it in the garage next weekend


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

More good news ! the same guy I'll be purchasing the BT3000 from also has a variable speed Freud plunge router with hard case in like new condition for $100. I'll be getting that bad boy the following weekend I think. I'll the old Ryobi intermediate table in the basement LOL ! It is great for small jobs but you can only cut safely into the wood about 1/8th inch per pass, and it really hates cutting MDF. 
I am up in the air about making a new table or buying one with a fence package.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Unless they've changed their MO, Amana used to make special order bits.
I think it would have to look something like this to provide the slot and recess.

They weren't cheap but if you do a lot of odd/specific cuts special order would work.


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