# Insulating your shop...



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Mountain winters here can be brutal... We almost have the market cornered on winter and we try to plan for the worst..
We have adopted a system of insulating here that is proving its self time and time again...
The framed (2x6 or 2x8 ext here) shop/home walls are done up in what is called the Mooney wall...

If the walls are uninsulated to start w/ fill the cavities w/ unfaced FG batts...
Use Cellulose if you desire more R value...

If they are already insulated w/ faced FG leave it be... If its FGB w/ plastic VB take down the plastic, leave the existing unfaced FG batts and add horizontal closed cell rigid extruded polystyrene board (blue or pink polystyrene but not the white Styrofoam) at least 1” thick and up to 2-1/2” thick... 2" is strongly suggested... 
You have to meet a minimum wall “R” value by code in a lot of locales... Check yours... 

*Note...*
The rigid extruded polystyrene board (REP) is your new VB...

While you are at it... Cover any exposed foundation w/ polystyrene also... Hopefully the exterior of the foundation is already done... If not, do it when you can but just do it...... 
Ceiling, four feet of blown in would be nice... Thee will make a world of difference

Here's your Mooney wall...

Mooney Wall -- A low cost, high R value wall

Now to introduce a slight change.. Instead of 2x2's go with “Z” channel and capture the foam board and make life easier on yourself...
Foam board and "Z" channel is installed horizontally...

Z-Furring Channel | ClarkDietrich Building Systems

If you sheath the walls with 1/2” ply or OSB before the fire rock goes on... The XDW is to meet fire code and the sheathing is for anyplace anytime nailers...

W/ the "Z" metal being horizontal you can hang the rock vertically which eliminates butt joints and reduces waste... Saves on mudding also..

The sheathing needs to be securely anchored to the “Z” channel and studs for it to be able to hold up your cabinets and wall racks.... I like DW screws to the channel and deck screws or ring shanks (depending on the REB's thickness) to the studs... Fastening the sheathing to the studs anchors the REB in one fell swoop...

With this type of construction you can start in any corner and begin your sheathing/DW'ing and head on down the wall... The drop for that wall then can be carried around to the next wall and carried on... Try not to match up sheathing and DW vertical seams... Also, w/ the sheathing, seams don't require you hitting the studs... 



Don't forget to paint.....


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick I was going to put a 4' strip of MDF around the walls of the garage . I've seen guys around here use osb for all the walls instead of drywall , but I wonder if that's even passes the fire code?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Stick I was going to put a 4' strip of MDF around the walls of the garage . I've seen guys around here use osb for all the walls instead of drywall , but I wonder if that's even passes the fire code?


not in this locale...


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## 64 ford (Apr 21, 2013)

Stick
Minnesota winters are pretty severe too. I had originally built my shop for cold storage so only have 2x4 walls. I put r13 fiberglass in first and then covered it with one inch poly-isocyanarate which has aluminum covering on both sides which helps reflect heat and cold.
This was nailed directly to the studs and all the seams were taped with aluminum tape.
By not using any z channel or hat track there is virtually no heat transmission. I then covered the bottom 8 feet with osb and painted the osb gloss white. I guess I neglected to obtain a building permit for this but sometimes dementia kicks in! I wouldn't do it for a customer but for myself it works out really well and is easy to heat.
Dennis


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

RainMan1 said:


> Stick I was going to put a 4' strip of MDF around the walls of the garage . I've seen guys around here use osb for all the walls instead of drywall , but I wonder if that's even passes the fire code?


That's what I did on the inside of my shop. Didn't think about code at the time and there was no one to see because all the work was on the inside. BC is one of the most stringent places in NA when it comes to regs so it probably isn't up to code but in the long run it would be an issue between you and your insurance company if there was a fire. 

The main reason I insulated my shop was so I could afford to keep my tools warm enough to keep cold and damp from damaging them. Being able to work in there is a bonus of course but protecting my investment in equipment was more important. You're about at that point now Rick so you need to start giving serious thought to insulating your workspace. I have 10" in my ceiling right now but I think I'll add some more this summer. In the long run insulation is cheap.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

You know Charles I never even gave it a thought regarding damage from cold and humidity .I really have to do something about that this summer .( I say that every year) 
I really think the temperature fluctuations ruined my cnc laser tube  .
I knew I should have removed the tube during winter but was concerned about alignment so I never bothered . Expensive lesson


Charles , what are you using for heat? I wanted to go with an electric heater but not sure


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Stick I was going to put a 4' strip of MDF around the walls of the garage . I've seen guys around here use osb for all the walls instead of drywall , *but I wonder if that's even passes the fire code?*


fire rocking over the OSB brings things into compliance...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> You know Charles I never even gave it a thought regarding damage from cold and humidity .I really have to do something about that this summer .( I say that every year)
> I really think the temperature fluctuations ruined my cnc laser tube  .
> I knew I should have removed the tube during winter but was concerned about alignment so I never bothered . Expensive lesson
> 
> ...


so insulate your shop.. one wall at a time if need be... not so hard on pocket book...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Yes Stick it's not to terrible . I refuse to use fiberglass insulation and love roxul . Your not very itchy from it as it's made from rock .
Use batons on the walls and rent the sprayer and shoot it in the attic . 
I have a few issues to overcome like the power needs to be upgraded as it's only 30 amp and the duct wil not accommodate anything bigger .

So now I need to dig a trench and have a new service relocated to the other side of the garage and the inside wiring relocated in spots to the new panel , plus upgrade the outlets to 20 amp with 12 gauge ,and have new outlets installed for 240 , and install cat5 for the IP camera , install lights in the soffit and a motion detector , etc , etc


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

RainMan1 said:


> Charles , what are you using for heat? I wanted to go with an electric heater but not sure


I have a 30' radiant tube heater and it is a great heat source and reasonably inexpensive to run but you need tall ceilings. Mine are about 9' 4" and they recommended 12' when I bought it. I put it close to one wall and mounted it at a 45* angle pointed towards where I do most of my work. Radiant heaters don't move air around so they are good if you want to put a finish on something but I don't know how the compact types are in a dusty atmosphere.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I have a 30' radiant tube heater and it is a great heat source and reasonably inexpensive to run but you need tall ceilings. Mine are about 9' 4" and they recommended 12' when I bought it. I put it close to one wall and mounted it at a 45* angle pointed towards where I do most of my work. Radiant heaters don't move air around so they are good if you want to put a finish on something but I don't know how the compact types are in a dusty atmosphere.


Those seem to be all the rage nowadays . I was hoping to go electric but tough call . There was a thread about heaters already and I think gas had won . Thing with gas is I have to cut another hole in my garage for a vent  
But electric may be to costly to run , hard to say . Plus electric would have a long recovery time . I don't need it 70 degrees in there , as anything above freezing is better than nothing . If I can see my breath I'm done


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Those seem to be all the rage nowadays . I was hoping to go electric but tough call . There was a thread about heaters already and I think gas had won . Thing with gas is I have to cut another hole in my garage for a vent
> But electric may be to costly to run , hard to say . Plus electric would have a long recovery time . I don't need it 70 degrees in there , as anything above freezing is better than nothing . If I can see my breath I'm done


go HW floor radiant 1/6HP zone pump and a water heater for source heat...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> go HW floor radiant 1/6HP zone pump and a water heater for source heat...


I like radiant heat . These are base boards?


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## GregLittleWoodworks (Dec 9, 2014)

When I built my shop I used spray foam insulation. It is the same stuff used for ice chests and expands right after the thin coating is sprayed on. I have 4" walls and 6" ceilings and the foam keeps the shop always comfortable and has a 30% humidity level average.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

GregLittleWoodworks said:


> When I built my shop I used spray foam insulation. It is the same stuff used for ice chests and expands right after the thin coating is sprayed on. I have 4" walls and 6" ceilings and the foam keeps the shop always comfortable and has a 30% humidity level average.


Yes Greg that is best case scenario . I had a few walls in my house done with that but it's a small fortune and its tough to make changes once she's sprayed . My ding bat neighbor living on the other side of the alley already backed into my garage with his tailgate open . If it had been spray foamed I think it would have made for a very tough repair


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> I like radiant heat . These are base boards?


in floor not base board..


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Stick I would agree with the in floor heating but with caveats. If the building has a pored slab that doesn't have a foam insulation break between the slab and the footing for the foundation then I'm not sure that in floor would be the best choice because there would significant heat loss around the edges. To remedy that I would want to put down a layer of foam on the existing floor and a break at the walls and then lay the tubing and pour another slab which is going to raise the floor almost 6". In floor heat is a hard retro fit so I'm not sure it would be the best choice.


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## GregLittleWoodworks (Dec 9, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> Yes Greg that is best case scenario . I had a few walls in my house done with that but it's a small fortune and its tough to make changes once she's sprayed . My ding bat neighbor living on the other side of the alley already backed into my garage with his tailgate open . If it had been spray foamed I think it would have made for a very tough repair


Rick...Lets hear it for good neighbors...! I hope the damage wasn't too serious and that he had good insurance.
I do have a window unit in my shop that heats and cools quite well. However, it is most important to use filters that keep the dust out of the unit. The filters that available for window units are not designed for the sort of dust that is available in a workshop


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## Davif (Nov 24, 2014)

This is great! I want to build my own shop soon and I need to control humidity and good temperature control. I'll have CNC mills and laths.

Thanks for the info.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

GregLittleWoodworks said:


> Rick...Lets hear it for good neighbors...! I hope the damage wasn't too serious and that he had good insurance.
> I do have a window unit in my shop that heats and cools quite well. However, it is most important to use filters that keep the dust out of the unit. The filters that available for window units are not designed for the sort of dust that is available in a workshop


No he didn't want to go threw insurance , but wanted to fix it himself . I fixed it as I didn't think anyone else was competent enough .
I had just finished putting the siding on too


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