# I'm making some canes



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Didn't want to hijack the thread I was in, so decided to start a new thread. This seemed like the appopiate place to put it.

I really wish I could post some pictures, so you could see one of my recent projects. Hopefully, I will at least get to where I can download some pictures, and post those. Time will tell.

Cane prototype. Broke a cane made from a tree limb, that I 'thought' was really strong. So that's when I started thinking about a plywood cane, 3-4 layers thick. Got a head/handle design I liked drawn up, cut out a cardboard copy to check feel, then glued down a paper pattern on what I thought was 1/2" plywood - hey, that's what the sign said, shoulda checked. Did this different than I usually do. Cut out the head (looks something like a cartoon bird, a mean bird :haha: ) and the shaft was seperate, so had two pieces to tack down. That didn't go as well as I would have preferred, because my nails were meant for as 1" master, so were too long, should have had 3/4" nails, but didn't at the time. So the head and shaft road up a bit while routing. Hmm, went ahead and glued down the routed piece to anothe piece of plywood, then routed that. OK, bit was just at the top of the top piece, so got some cutting I did not want. WTF? Turned out the plywood is NOT the 1/2" I thought I had bought, but a tad over 1/8" less. Wound up having to tilt the piece a bit so I didn't chew thu both pieces. Bah. It's a proof of concept piece anyway, so I'll drop the rioute in the plate a bit before I rout more of this. OK, the two layes looked good, the handle felt good, but needed a third layer of plywood. This made it tall enough so the bit followed the outline very nicely. In fact, I even got a couple of ideas out of it. With three layers this should have been at 1 1/2" thick, or very close. Not. 1 1/8" thick, meaning another layer of plywood. I think it would be as strong as I need at 1 1/8", but the goal was 1 1/2", so another layer. After I routed the second layer I also cut it to 40" long. My present tree limb cane is 36", according to the guidelines too tall for me, I'm 5'7", but I like it a bit long. I'll use the prototype for a few days at 40", to see how that feels, but I'm sure I will cut it down to 38". If that works well, then it'll get a bit of fancy work, to see how it looks. Then it will get some destructive testing. And by that, I mean that first is will get the head slammed repeatedly into something very hard, to see how it stands up. Then I'll see if it will stand up to a lot of weight in the center of the shaft. I want something that will last.

Once that's all done, I'll make all changes to the design I want, make a new master, then a new cane the right way, then do some moderate testing on it; I consider it a prototype also. 

When the second cane is done I, hopefully, will know just what I'm doing with my two piece master routing. I now have some 3/4" nails, which should insure it. Normally I do one master and I am done with that particular design/style. This time I have ten or more cane heads drawn up. Only one or two of the heads will not be painted probably; most will - ducks, geese, toucan, flamingo, and I don't know what else will evolve. I'm thinking some will appeal to only men, some only women, some women and kids, and some only kids. Time will tell; I'm thinking seriously about making them to sell, but will make one of each design for myself. The designs are original; I did use Daffy Duck as inspiration for one - but you can't tell now, theres that much change to it; most of the rest were inspired by photos. And I think three came purely out of my mind.

It sucks not being able to post photos of this. But I am pursuing a solution. I'll repot progress, and when I can, post pictues, they're in my camera.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

OK. Finally got some pictures downloaded. Now a test to see if I can post any. This will be my prototype cane as it is this evening. I hope.

OK, seems I can find, sort, where my pictures are, but these two are not what I had in mind. The second picture is two of my cane handle designs. The first is my modded Marlin .22.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

This seems to be it. It's rough if you're close to it, but no prob, it's a prototype. But my prototypes usually are a bit more presentable than this one. Ah well, it'll do. :happy:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I've been looking over my prototype, and have decided that I will be adding one more layer of plywood to this cane. However, before I do that I will drill nail pilot holes thru it, to let me use it as a master to rout out two copies of the cane handle; I like the handle, which I am very satisfied with. This will give me two handles on a piece of plywood, so I will use a straightedge and will mark a straight line from the handle down on each, one 1" wide, and one 1 1/2" wide, then rough cut on the outside of each handle. Tack the straightedge alone one side of a shaft line, rout it, then turn the straightedge around, and rout the other side, repeat on the other blank.

Then glue both down, rout them out, drill them both for nail pilot holes - these will both be kept as masters, making sure the shaft is smooth and straight. Then I'll use each to rout out two blanks, 1" shaft, and 1 1/2" blank. Those two will then be glued to plywood, routed, and glued again, making two new protypes, for further field testing. Both will be 40" long, and the last 11" on each side of the bottom will have 1/4" trimmed off the 1 1/2" cane. Confused yet? 

The 1" wide shaft will have a total of three thicknesses, the 1 1/2" shaft four. Once I get them both made, I'll cut the original cane to 38", so see if I like it better then its present 40"s, and my tree limb cane's 36". Now, recall the two masters I kept back? I will be doing some roundove and 45 degree routing on each, to see how it comes out. And, if every thing comes out like I think it will, I'll already have my master patterns/templates made. 

Once I have the masters ready I will also use them two rout out a 1" and a 1 1/2" shaft blank, lengthening each to 40" long, glue another layer of plywood on each, making two shaft masters. I will then match one up with a new handle blank, and rout to make a new master. This will give me a new master for each size shaft, and each different handle. It may seem confusing, so ask if you want to have something explained. I do stuff like this pretty often, so it's clear to me. Gives me nice, repeatable results, with a minimum of hassle. Actually I consider making the masters fo the shafts maybe the hardest part, or at least the biggest pain.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

OK, nice to be able to save and post pictures again. Now if it was just easy tracking down where the pictures are saved. Here are some of the handle designs I will be using for my canes. The first couple are 100% original by me, the othes were inspired by photos; or, in a few instances, drawings. But any inspirations were radically changed from the originals.


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## TRBaker (Jul 5, 2012)

I like your concept. Neat project. However, if you use the Marlin for a cane, nobody will mess with you.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Theo.

As with Troy, I like it also. I've followed your past projects with interest. You do make them into an art with craftsmanship and pride.

As I get older, the slot in the back of my knee gets worse and I have to wear hinged braces, I've had to use a cane more often. Funny how when you have to start using something...

I didn't comment, but I have been reading every one of your posts in this. I am following this new direction of yours and am curious how it goes for you.

I'm imagining that it is going to turn out visually like a laminate. What kind of plywood are you using that you are not being plaqued with voids? Baltic Birch? Russian Birch?


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## TRBaker (Jul 5, 2012)

Ahhhhhhhhhhhh....Russian Baltic Birch is fantastic to work with.


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## dogcatcher (Aug 25, 2012)

I have been using a cane for the last 12 years, and I like your ideas! On the photos of the handles, for me the handle in photos 6 and 7 look to be the most comfortable. A very important feature if used in real life. But 3 and 4 are my favorites design, ones like these I would use occasionally regardless of how comfortable they are.

Thanks for sharing.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

:haha: Thanks guys. I don't need a cane most of the time, but when I do I need it right now, if my knee or hip gives me a problem, then I'm very happy to have it along. It comes in handy other wise too, if something is too far back on the top shelf at the store, just hook it with the handle and pull it forward, I figure if you ever get attacked by a dog a cane will be good protection, just run it down his throat. Won't work that well with more then one dog, but then you use it like a baaseball bat. You can use it on a thug too, but in that case I'd want to do some serious reading and/or lessons in cane/stick fighting befoe you have to try it.

Which is one of the reasons I started this project. I've made half a dozen or so canes. The first was made from oak flooring I got for free. I planed it to 1/2" thick, then cut it down to 1" wide, laminated the shaft, glued a couple of wide pieces at the top, and cut the inside with a 7" hole saw, and rounded the outside with a bandsaw. Then rounded the edges with a bit of sanding and a very sturdy, and not bad looking, cane. Carried that until I left it on the top of my vehicle, and drove off. Miss that cane. Did the same thing with a couple of store bought canes, which made me try making my own. That's when I went to the tree limb canes. Always heard people give compliments on the looks and sturdiness of them. Wasn't all that impressed with the looks, but sturdy was what I was after - and thought I had it, until I slid down some crusty snow covered porch steps, landed on top of my cane, and snapped it like a twig. Fortunately I had a spare in the truck, but that's when, and how, i thought, laminated plywood canes. 

By the way, these first three canes are all prototypes, and will eventually be destructive tested, to compare them. And I'm using part of my stash of not very fancy sheathing plywood to make them, voids and all. :haha: But that's OK, once I get thru with these I'll get some Sitka Spruce, Baltic Birch, or other nice plywood, for the real canes. 

Marvin, I think you'd be surpised. Handles 3 and 4 both have a bump, like the one on my prototypes. On the prototype, that bump is in just the right position to fit into the palm of the hand, and that is what makes it comfortable to me. I hope the bumps on those two are in just the right position to fit the palm - because if they don't, I'll be doing a remake on both. I don't think any of them will be uncomfortable, at least hope not, but I do think those two will be just a bit more comfortable. Glad you like 'em.

Yesterday I tacked the first cane onto a piece of plywood, so I could rout out a copy of the handle, and use it with a 1" wide shaft template, and glue that to a piece of plywood. I forgot the handle is three layers thick, so the nails to tack it down where a tad short, which meant the new handle piece did not rout that fantastic - but it worked, routed that out today, and have the third layer gluing now. It won't come out exactly 1"X1", but close enough. I'll be able to judge the strength, to round the edges, then judge the strength again. I tried routing out another handle thiis afternoon, for a 1 1/2"X1 1/2" shaft, which will be four layers. Those voids wound up making a two piece handle after it broke, but It glued together nicely, and that will be on the inside. These are both like the first one, above, so no pictures. These all came out a bit rougher than I'd planned, but not that bad. Once I figure out which shaft size I'll actually use, I'll spend a lot more time getting a good pattern. But I'm satisfied with what I've got right now. 

I've got about eleven handle designs glued to plywood, waiting to be cut out, then they'll be glued to another piece of plywood, along with a shaft blank, and both routed to make a two layer master. I'll spend some time on these, making them nice. I'm thinking I'll cut out another copy of the present handle also; it was just zipped out, to use for the testing, but It's turned out to be nicely comfortable, and I like it. I'll spend time on all the masters; they have to be nice and smooth, because any little bump, dip, or other irregularity, will show up in the copies. 

I'll be routing these two out tomorrow, then another layer glued on the 1 1/2"X1 1/2" shaft, which will give it three layers, then just one more layer. I forgot to glue on another layer on the first one made also, so that will be tomorrow also. The 1"X1" shaft one will be good at three layers. 

Interesting tidbit. My tree limb cane is 36", which feels a bit short for me. The original cane started at 40", which I knew was way long for me. I cut it down to 39", which was still too long, used it for a day. Then cut it down to 38", which I figured was what I would be happy with. Well, tomorrow or the next day I am cutting it down to 37 1/2" to see how I like that. Amazing that that little amount of length is so noticable. If the 37 1/2" still feels longer then I'm satisfied with, I'll start cutting off 1/4" at a time to see how that feels. I'd never have thunk it, but it's true. 

Hopefully I'll have something picture worthy in a day or two. I am more and more pleased with how all of this is going together. I'll be making a batch of canes for myself, and rotate use, but will also have a try at making some for sale. 
:sold:

Troy. Nah, I'm a grumpy old man, and I'm going to be carrying a cane sturdy enough to beat the crap out of a wild boar, the Marlin is reserved for cans and paper targets. And I pack. Hehehehe

Anything not clear ask away. I know I'm not sure just what I'm going to do until I get out there and actually do it sometimes, so I have to ask myself what I'm doing. :yes4:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Further adventures in canemaking.

I had originally gotten two full sheets of plywood off the 1/2" rack at Lowes. Went to the Jeep and got the last piece of the first full sheet. I know it was the last piece, because the other four were all 1/2" thick. Apparently someone pulled a thinner sheet, and rather than return it to the stack it came from, just put it on the first one handy. I hate people like that. I am going to try to pay more attention when I buy plywood from now on.

Today got both prototypes routed out, 1" handle, and 1 1/2". The 1" now has it's final layer, and was cut to 18". I'll try that for a few days, then rout the edges, and see how tht works. The 1 1/2" is gluing on it's third layer, and then one more to go, then itts turn for cutting to length, testing for a few days, then routing the edges, and further testing. The original prototype is not going to get a nother layer I decided. I'll just use it as the sacrifice to get the two edge router bits the way I wan, and then it'll get destructive shipping.

If things go the way I hope, the 1" version will do me. It's light, feels strong enough, but testing will tell then for sure, or not. 

Bought some more Titebond II today. The other day I remembered I needed glue, but was in WallyWorld and they didn't have Titebond, only Elmers. Now Elmers is OK, stronger than the wood, but seems a bit thinner than Titebond, and I j ust don't care for it as much. It was a small bottle, and emptied fast.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Funny, I've got the 1" shaft cane cut to 38", and it seems to feel about right, yet the other, cut to 38" also, feels llike it should be shorter.

Considering making another 1" shaft cane. This one, if I lean on it with a lot of weight on the handle, it seem to flex a bit, and I heard it creak at least once. Relooking at it, the neck is a bit narrower than the shaft. I think if it is built up a bit on the inside of the neck, with wood filler, it will strengthen it. If I'm going to go to that much trouble I might as well smooth out the shaft also, and possible get it to where I can just rout out a good piece as the start of a master - would save a bit of time and work if so. A second prototype of it would also let me start routing the corners, to see how they go, and check the strength that way. For something that seems so simple to make, this is taking me more time and thinking than my wooden figure banks, and they have 17 separate pieces each.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Have reconsidered making another 1" shaft cane. Found out it is NOT the 'neck' flexing, it is the shaft itself, not much, just barely enough to tell it flexes. So not going to reinforce the 'neck', but did get my new 1/2" roundover bit in another router and routed the edges. Didn't give me exactly the look I was after, but not real bad either. I think instead of trying to use it as a master, to rout out the first layer of a totally new master, I'll just go back to my old cane for a bit, and commence destructive testing on this one, and see if I can break it with extrodinary wear and tear. If I have to beat off an irate bear I want to know it's not going to snap in two doing it.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Different router plate, router, with 1/2" roundover bit. The router plate pops in, just like the one I use with my straight pattern bit. Got a master made, so if I need more plates, take about a minute to rout one out. Ta da. I've got one more working router, I think I've got the needed screws to fasten it to another plate, then I'll use it for my 45 degree angle bit. The non-working router just needs a wire resoldered, and then I'll have four. Thought I had five, but can only find four. Time to hit some yard sales. Much easier to change router plates than it is to change router bits. :yes4:


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

JOAT said:


> Have reconsidered making another 1" shaft cane. Found out it is NOT the 'neck' flexing, it is the shaft itself, not much, just barely enough to tell it flexes. So not going to reinforce the 'neck', but did get my new 1/2" roundover bit in another router and routed the edges. Didn't give me exactly the look I was after, but not real bad either. I think instead of trying to use it as a master, to rout out the first layer of a totally new master, I'll just go back to my old cane for a bit, and commence destructive testing on this one, and see if I can break it with extrodinary wear and tear. If I have to beat off an irate bear I want to know it's not going to snap in two doing it.


I'm still excited about your project.

I remember you saying that this test cane is out of normal ply with it's normal voids right? Is that a fair test?

Baltic Birch ply has almost twice the plys as normal plywood and russian birch (aviation) plywood has over twice that of baltic birch. Both are laminated so there is little or no voids.

Your tests should still be at good, but results of a finished cane with other materials would be stronger.

I hear you on length being important. I have a cane that is an Austrian walking stick, adjustable. From the wear in the joint, I can see where I have it adjusted. A half inch either way of that and I can really feel it.

Pictures. I don't care about the color correction. I'm just curious to see how it looks in it's shape with the plys showing up as laminations. Stained would make those plys pop.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Here is a link to a thread about saw handled canes: http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/2795-saw-cane-details-thoughts.html#post29286


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

MAFoElffen said:


> I'm still excited about your project.
> 
> I remember you saying that this test cane is out of normal ply with it's normal voids right? Is that a fair test?
> 
> ...


Yes, this particular plywood is probably the cheapest sheating plywood Lowes had that day. These are just prototypes, didn't care about voids, just wanted cheap, for proof of concept; and foids and all, it's worked well for that. I took pictures today, spent a fair amount of time at it too, making sure I got details, and the pictures were clear. Got a couple of a void probably a good foot long anyway, on the bottom part of the shaft of the 1"X" cane. 

Well aware better plywood would be stronger, and that's eventually what I will be using, for looks as well as strength. But in the meantime, I know if these canes satisfy me as to strenght/breaking resistance, then the good stuff will have no issue on strength.

I'm going to cut one of the test canes down to 37 1/2", from 38", and see how that feels. Then if it still feels like it could be shorter, I'm just going to start taking it down 1/4" at a time. Really amazing, I thought length would be no biggie, but it actually is. On the other hand, I thought the angle of the shaft to the handle would be an issue, but find out it doesn't seem to be at all. Apparently the hand/wrist compensates, without any problem. Nice to know.

I'd rounded the 1"X1" shaft and hadle the other day. Nice, it would have rounded better if the plywood had been better grade, but actually, a few minutes with sandpaper and it would have improved nicely - just the thing for a low priced cane, that still looks good. Finished routing out a test cane with a 1 1/2"X1 1/2" shaft. Hefty, but still nice. Popped in a router with a new 45 degree straight angle bit, and had at it. Again, a bit rough because of the cheap plywood, and I was really not taking a lot of care - hey, it's a test cane.  Not bad, but not exactly what I wanted, going to look to see if they make those a bit taller. I kind of like the results.

Then got the 1"X1" shaft cane, and tried it on that. Well, if I was going for eveness I really should have lowered the bit a little. Took off more than I'd been planning on, which mean it is weaker than I expected - because it took more wood off. Played Hell where some voids were too, taking off chunks of wood. :wacko: Kind of surprised me. I'll glue up another shaft, and try this bit on it again later, but only after I drop the bit down, so it doesn't take so much off. But, at this time, I'm thinking that the roundover bit is what would be best with a shaft this size. 

Mixed up a bit of stain too, and tried it on the 1"X1" shaft. Latex paint thinned with wter. dance3: 
Actually not bad, apply, wipe off. The yellow doesn't really make the plies stand out, or the darker green, but the lighter green did a fair job. But the one I liked the best, and I think made even those plies show well, was my old standby. Unused cooking oil. Should really work well on the good plywood if it works this well on the el cheapo stuff. Didn't wipe it off, just spread it with my fingers, and rubbed it in a bit. 

And took pictures of all of this. Nice pictures. Loated them on the computer, deleted them from the camera, then was going thru them, discarding the bad pictures, keeping the good. Then the computer decided to shut itself down. Took the Devil's own time to get it back up. And guess what. All my pictures, and I mean every picture I had saved, including my destop picture had all gone poof. If that doesn't irk one. 

So, sorry guys, no pictures today. :cray:

Oh, Mike. Yeah, I've seen saw handle canes before, but they're just not a style I care for. I've got about 6 or 8 handle designs I'm working on just now. Just finished a fish that looks like the star of the movie, Grumpy Old Fish. :lol:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

OK, able to get out and get a few photos. Not fantastic, but batteries ran low and this is good as I could get. 
The first one is where I thinned latex paint, made stain  The lighter version, less paint, actually shows a more appealing contrast than the darker. And, of course, forgot to get a shot of the place I put on the cooking oil - I like it better than the latex stain.

The second photo shows where some of the layers were chewed off by the 45 degree bit, because of the voids between the layers. Had that bit way too high, it took off way more than I was thinking it would. But even tho it did take off a lot more than I had planned on, it didn't weaken the shaft near as much as I had originally thought. In fact it is still strong enough that I would be statisfied with the strength of a 1"X1" shaft, and would not go with a 1 1/2"X1 1/2" shaft, unless for a longer walking staff.

I forgot to get pictures again of the 1 1/2"X1 1/2" cane after using the 45 degree bit. It worked well, but did splinter where better plywood probably would not. I was not satisfied with the looks tho, because the bit is not long enough to suit me. That's OK tho, because the 1"X1" shaft and using a roundover bit pleases me just fine. I will probably lower the 45 degree bit and play with that later, just to see how it looks, but that's probably it as far as canes go. 

Next steps:
Beat this prototype cane to see how much punishment it will take, or just see what it takes to break it. 
Cut the other prototype cane a bit shorter, maybe 1/2", maybe 1/4", haven't decided just yet, to come up with a length I prefer most - for my personal canes.
Make a really nice 1"X1" master for making shaft blanks - which will in turn be used is making cane masters.
Cut out some of my completed cane handle designs - which will then be matched with shaft blanks to make cane masters.
Get some good 1/2" plywood, Baltic Birch, Sitka Spruce, or something along those lines, not fantastically expensive, but not the cheap suff either, and make a few canes, to see how they come out. I have high hopes.
Work on a few more handle designs.
Not necessarily in that order. :yes4:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Was only able to get a master for the shafts done. Came out good, except I got one side too close to the edge, winding up with a small dip in the side, which is no biggie, being able to correct that easily with wood filler. Drilled nail pilot holes every 3 inches, cut a piece of 1/2" plywood to start the next master. Tacked the nails in with about my usual 1/8" left out. About this time I noticed that the first master had 1/2" plywood, and the second layer turned out to the the lousy 3/8" plywood. OK, no biggie, the next one will be two 1/2" layers. Then routed it out, expecting it to come out good. Well, several of the nails danced loose, and apparently that was enough to shift the routed piece, because it came out lousy. Hmmm. OK, drilled more holes, so they are now 1 1/2" apart, and hit the edges with a sander. Tacked a piece to the master and started routing. Came out beautiful, except fo the mentioned dip, and got in a rush to go over a different spot and routed a very nice groove. Neither is a biggie, because both will be easily taken care of with wood filler in the new master, and that one then used to make a final master, with no wood filler. I often make a master, which is used to make a better master, which is in turn used to make a better master, sometimes only 2 or 3, or on rare occassions more. 

As I said, the master came out good, however, instead of leaving the nails about 1/8" proud, I pounded them in all the way. Sure kept the nails from dancing out, but the problem now is getting them separated. I'm going to have to make some wedges of some sort it seems. Most of my masters are not as long, so not quite used to this. NIce learning experience tho. Should have them apart in a day or two, don't want to damage anything. Then on to the next step. 

I've got close to 30 handle designs now. Hope to have another prototype done by the end of the week.


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## Ironman50 (Jun 5, 2012)

It should do! It looks great for a prototype. How much more the real thing?


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Ironman50 said:


> It should do! It looks great for a prototype. How much more the real thing?


If I get the prototype done this week, should be ready to start making real canes next week. Got a LOT of handle designs to cut out too. Drew out a neat elephant design last night.

Got in the shop today, grabbed a handful of popsickle sticks and cut them in half to use as wedges. The proceeded to knock most of them on the floor. Got enough of a gap started to drive them in, and they made great wedges. Got a few nails pulled, easily, then saw a lot of blood on the wood. I hadn't felt a thing, but had a lot of blood on my hand. So gave it up for the day and came in the house to clean up and put something on my wound. Not a large wound but it really bled, looked like I poked it with something. Will try to get out there tomorrow and get it all apart, then glue it up to rout another master. Will try to get my grumpy fish handle cut out too, that'll be my first real cane handle.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Made into the shop today. Started with popsickle sticks for wedges, not so hot, not getting the pieces separated enough. Then spotted a piece of 1/2" plywood with a point. Worked like a champ, had the whole thing apart in about five minutes. Cut a piece to glue it to, and into the house to glue them up - getting too cool at night to be good for the glue to set. Still need to put a bit of wood filler on it, to smooth out those two small blemishes. I hope to get it routed out tomorrow, then start on a good master. Have high hopes.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Got in the shop, and routed out the master, I did touch it up a bit with a sander after. The woodfiller worked well, came out nice. Drilled the pilot holes in it, and rough cut some 1/2" plywood, then tacked the master to it, leaving the nails just short of all the way - which worked very well this time, the routing went well, altho about 6 nails did dance loose, had enough total the piece didn't shift a bit. Yay. Then rough cut another piece, and brought both into the house for glueup. Once it's routed out, I'll hit it a lick with the sander, but I don't believe it'll really need it. Hopefully that will be the final master, they tend to last a long time, unless I screw them up, or the bearing come off and chews it up a bit. If it does that, it just means wood filler, then make another master. Not complicated at all, just takes a bit of care doing it. 

Bit of a bummer, found out some of the cane handle designs I had glued down were on the 3/8" plywood, instead of 1/2". No real problem, but irritating to the nth degree. I may just glue them to some 1/4" plywood, then run them thru the planer until I get them down to 1/2". But fortunately, a handle for the next prototype is on 1/2". 

Nothing worth pictures just yet, but things are going along nicely. Will try to get some photos tomorrow, when I'll have something worth looking at.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I just realized. Some, maybe all of you, may have the wrong idea of what I am doing just now. I am not making a master for a whole cane. What I am working on just now is the master to rout out cane shafts, to make cane masters. Now that sounds confusing. :sad: :haha:

The present project is glued up, and will be routed out tomorrow. It's two layers of 1/2" plywood, I'll drill the nail pilot holes after it is routed. Then I will use it to rout out a cane shaft master. Confused again? This will be 1/2" plywood, and there is a 'socket' on the top, the base of the cane handle chosen will fit in the socket, to line it up, and keep it straight without the need to go back and fill in any gaps with wood filler. The socket is sort of like a U. I'll definitely try for pictures tomorrow. I'll get one of my cane handles cut out also. Once that is done, the cane shaft master will be glued to more 1/2" plywood, and the base of the cane handle, slid into the socket, and glued down also. Once the glue sets, they will be routed out as one, nail pilot holes drilled, and THAT is a cane master. Then I will tack it down to some 1/2" plywood, rout that out, glue that piece down, rout it out, and that will make an almost completed cane. I say almost, because the bottom tip will need to be rounded a bit to accept one of those furniture tips, which work just as well as cane tips, and cost a lot less. Most of the handles will have a figure, copied from the master handle, sketched on both sides, then that painted. And THAT will be a cane. Unsure if I will put a finish on them or not, may just tell the buyer to put on some lemon furniture polish. Reminds me, still need to get a better quality plywood. 

The first one will be with the 1/2" sheathing plywood I already have, and which is pretty decent stuff in itself - may make all of my personal canes out of it. The first one will be mainly for more testing, but I will keep it after. If things with it go as well as I think, then I'll be making more masters, each with a different handle. I had thought of just using the shaft master, and another layer on my handle designs, and make canes that way, but prefer the thought of just laying the whole thing out and routing a complete cane half. More efficient? Dunno, but more appealing to me.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Had pictures, good pictures. Took them day before yesterday, but was too tired to post, so was going to post them yesterday. And my computer proceeded to shut itself down, just before I could post. When I was able to have it working, today, the pictures had gone poof. All I have left now is one, of the final cane, and it's not as good as it looked on the camera. Better than nothing I guess, but frustrating.

Had a picture of the cane shaft master. It actually ends in a lozenge shape, which is a socket to accept the base of the handle design, and also so the owner can personalize it. When I routed the new master, the nails danced out at that end, and let the wood shift, chewing up the inside of the socket a bit. OK, a bit of wood filler will work there. It was at this time I found out that the socket was two popsicle sticks wider than the 1" base of the the handle. Don't know how that one happened, but it will easily be solved by gluing in popsicle sticks as shims. Almost everyone of my projects has at least one popsicle stick in it somewhere.

Then a picture of the shaft and the handle design I cut out - didn't want to use my grumpy fish design until I knew I would do it right. Good thing too, because while I was routing out the piece they were glued too, somehow the entire router shifted up a bit. I was about halfway finished routing when I noticed the bearing over the top piece. It only chewed up about 8 inches, so not a total loss, instead of a master, it immediately became a test cane. I'm not used to routing out such long pieces, so didn't drive the nails quite far enough. Except for the chewed up part, the rest came out pretty good. Will need to do some sanding before I paint next time tho, and the paper on the handle design is peeling just a bit. 

And, here is a copy of the test cane. The painting is not so great, as it's been a good long while since I pained any of my figures, and kind of forgot some of my painting techniques. The ''lozenge" wouldn't normally be painted either, but I did it this time to cover the wood filler. One nice thing about it, I can (and will) paint over it. 

All in all, it didn't come out quite as well as I had hoped, but good enough so it will make a good test cane. I rounded the end and put on a vinyl leg tip (considerably less expensive than cane tips, and work just as well). I'll be trying some rounding on the painted part and see if I should do that before or after painting. I also cut it down to 37", and that seems a bit better than the 38" on the other test cane - which will be destructive tested now. 

When I got the 1/2" plywood for the cane found out that I still have two piece 2X4' of that dratted 3/8" plywood. Decided I'll probably either use both pieces as the top to my mitre saw, or to make a wooden piggy bank for the grandson. Whatever, but definitely got to get rid of that sfuff.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Woke up early and couldn't go back to sleep. Well, it suddenly struck me how to solve the painting issue. Mostly, don't. 
< I'll make blank handle designs for some of the designs, and if the buyer wants, he/she can make their own design, and color or paint as desired.
< Or, for a $ or 2 more, I'll lay out my design on it, then they can leave as is or paint/color it.
< Some handles I will layout my design, period, because the shape of the handle would be rather stupid otherwise. Then the buyer can paint/color if desired.
< And there are a very few designs I may be be willing to paint, for about $5 more. Simple designs really, so no big issue, and could do a nice job. Or just the design. There's a couple of eagles, a couple of other raptors, and some that must have come out of a dream or something.
< And some of the designs were not developed with a design in mind, at all. 
< On some of the designs, if the buyer wants me to paint them, he/she is going to have to come up with some serious bucks before they'll be able to talk me into painting one. My turtle design for one; I will likely paint one of those, for my personal use; and it is likely going to be a pain to do it and do it well. I don't think I'll paint my whale design, even for myself; nor my elephant - but on that a light gray wash might do well instead of paint; a wash worked very well on a Statue Of Liberty bank, to give it a nice copper green patina. Hmm, now that I think on it, a wash might work well on some of the other designs too. My washes are usually around 50/50 latex paint/water. 
I bet that would work on my aligator also. K.I.S.S. always works best in the end. :dance3:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Had almost finished a new post. Apparently hit a wrong button, and the whole thing went poof. Started again, did the same thing. Very exasperating. I can't think of anything I could have done that would have irrititated any of the Computer Gods. Wound up getting a new/refurbished computer by the way, which seems to have solved some of my issues. Still getting it set up, but it also means all my photos are on the old computer. The son says we can get them off, but no idea of when. 

Been busy with eleventyteen other issues, so not able to do much with the canes. Have been using the test cane daily tho, and like it. I will be rounding the edges a bit, which will make it more comfortable for most people, I have no problems with it as is. Going to test a couple of other things on it also.

I've got around 40 different handle designs so far. Think that may be enough. Took a picture of the latest, and the next to be cut out. Came out pretty well I think. Some of the designs look a bit faint, but that's because the pencil lines were not highlited. There's the double headed whatever type of bird, one lion, two eagles, another whatever type of bird, dog, turtle, and I think that's it. And my turtle on the separate piece. The round thingies are octagon chess piece bases. I only need one, to make a master, but it's going to be tricky to get one that is just right, so I printed out some spares. Also got my huge piggy bank ready for cutting, and almost as far along on my monster truck bank. Then there's life.


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