# Help with cutting a worktop with router



## tripi (Jun 28, 2006)

Being my first router, never used one before I could do with some guidance before I start. I'm afraid you will have to bare with some of the questions as they sound a bit obvious to you guys.

I have read all the instructions for my dewalt dw625 router but they dont tell me how to use it. Also read the instructions with my worktop jig which were excellent.

1st Question: Installing cutter bit into collet. The instructions are insert the cutter and check the cutter is correctly installed in the collet. Such good instructions, not.
Do I install the cutter bit all the way to the bottom of the collet? 
I lifted it up by 2 or 3mm because I didn't look correct at the bottom.

2nd Question: Instructions say "make sure the plunge limiter is always locked before switching on" and "Loosen the plunge limiter and allow the router carriage to regain its rest position before switching off".
That kind of suggests that the plunge limiter would be locked during operation. I would of thought that I need to unlock it during cutting so it can be plunged. Is that correct?

3rd Question: Since I don't have vacuum extraction at the moment would I still be able to use the thing safely? I am going to need to cut my worktop in 5 passed by my calculations. 5 lots of 8mm. Should I do one pass and then switch the router off, remove dust, set plunge depth and then proceed with next pass? 
PS. I do have a good respirator so airborn dust shouldnt be too much of a problem.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

hi tripi

1.) the easy way is to put a o-ring on the router bit,just under the cutter or use a rubber gromet in the hole in the arbor.
You don't want the bit to bottom out in the arbor.it needs room to lock the bit down.

2.) just set your plunge limiter b/4 you turn it on then make the cut and then let it come back up b/4 you remove it from the cut.(b/4 you put it down to one side)

3.) what kind of wood are cutting ?, how wide of a cut ?, most routers can do a .250 cut easy, the rule I use is 1 pass for the 1st cut then one more to get the job done clean but sometimes it's best to make one pass,dovetails ,box joints ,etc. the router can do a great job but it also can screw the job up when you make more than one pass, that's when templates come into play to help with this type of error.

Hope this helps a bit 

Bj


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## mailee (Nov 11, 2005)

Hi bobj3, I have cut a few worktops for kitchens here in the UK with my De Walt 625 and also use the worktop jig. I assume this is the sort of worktop you are talking about? If so I make a few passes with the router to cut the top. A good rule of thumb is never plunge deeper than the dia of bit you are using. After placing the worktop jig in place and clamping it securely make your first pass keeping the router on the outer side of the jig. (The one away from the cut edge) make as many passes as you need to almost cut through the top and then on the last cut puch the router onto the side nearest the cut. This way makes sure the cutter isn't overloaded and the final cut has less material to cut away even though it is still cutting the full depth. I agree with the former reply that it is a good idea to insert an 'O' ring into the collet as the cutter should never be inserted to it's full depth in the collet. (This can cause a hammering action which can casue the cutter to become loose) I do apply the plunge lock at each pass and release it at the end before commencing the next cutting depth. I hope this is of some help to you.


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## mailee (Nov 11, 2005)

Sorry I just realised I posted to the wrong person it should have read Tripi.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Tripi, maybe I can clarify your 2nd question. What they are telling you is before you switch your router on to have it fully retracted with the plunge LOCK on. Once you have started the router you release the lock to allow you to plunge into your work. When you get to the desired depth you lock the plunge depth for a consistant cut. When you finish your cut you release the lock and allow the bit to be fully retracted into the base and lock it before switching off.


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## tripi (Jun 28, 2006)

Thanks guys your help was fantastic.
Ive started cutting the worktop now and everything was going really well. The cut looks perfect so far, the router cuts so easy, just glides through the worktop.
Ive hit a problem, the router won't plunge any further and i'm about 7mm short of cutting all the way through. My worktop is 40mm chipboard laminate. I am using a trend combi 66 jig (16mm thick) and a freud 12-12850 1/2" cutter with blade length of 2"

Am i missing something simple here, surely the router should be able to do this.
Any ideas whats going on?


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## tripi (Jun 28, 2006)

I finished my worktop now, solved it by buying a longer, 2 1/2" cutter. I had the same problem with the biscuit cutter not plunging far enough too, I inserted them 15mm down instead of the center (20mm). Very pleased with the end result. Thanks again for everyones help.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

tripi

Post a picture or two I'm sure many would like to see it. 
One picture is worth a 1000 words.


Bj


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## tripi (Jun 28, 2006)

I have tried to post a picture but can't seem to do it. Its a 173kb jpg image. After clicking upload attachment it uploads 3 bars and then I get 'page cannot be displayed' message. Are there any restrictions that would stop me?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tripi

Make the image smaller (it's now 173kb make it 60kb or smaller)
This FREE program will do it for you.
IrfanView fromm the same http://www.irfanview.com

Bj


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## tripi (Jun 28, 2006)

Ok, finally managed to upload it after about 50 attempts. I think it was more to do with the resolution of the image as opposed to the size. Image quality is not the best but you should get an idea of how it turned out. 

I think I did fairly well considering I had no practice cuts and it was first time I used a router. What you think?


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