# Can't Get Router Bit Above Table



## awcsgo (11 mo ago)

I have a Ryobi Plunge Router installed in a Ryobi router table. I can't get the router bit to come up above the surface of the table, so it's impossible to cut anything. What am I doing wrong?? Any help will be appreciated, since I am so new at this.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

If you can post a picture or model numbers that will help diagnose the problem. Also, the bit you are using and the diameter. The router may have a plastic baseplate that has to be removed before it can be mounted to the table, or the bit diameter is too large for the opening in the table. 

Depending on the info we can come up with a solution.


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## awcsgo (11 mo ago)

Awesome, thanks. Here are photos of the router model, a photo of it “plunged” as far as it will go, and a photo of the base.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

The plunge stop bar (silver thing with the scale) is bottoming out. Loosen the black knob and retract it.


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## awcsgo (11 mo ago)

kp91 said:


> The plunge stop bar (silver thing with the scale) is bottoming out. Loosen the black knob and retract it.


I did that. It’s almost like the plunge springs won’t retract enough. I was wondering if somehow the router base was upside down, but that’s the way it came. I only installed it on the table.


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## awcsgo (11 mo ago)




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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

If I make it to Home Depot I will take a peek at that model. You can probably get a little more depth by not inserting the bit as far. As long as the bit is fully through and past the collet you are good.


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## awcsgo (11 mo ago)

kp91 said:


> If I make it to Home Depot I will take a peek at that model. You can probably get a little more depth by not inserting the bit as far. As long as the bit is fully through and past the collet you are good.
> View attachment 400846


I wondered about that, but I was nervous about not seating it as they instructed (all the way, then pulling up 1/16”). I’ll see how that plays out. I also wondered if there is a bot set with longer posts or something, but I don’t see that as an option.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

As long as you have enough in the collet ful, legth it's alright to Sept out. This was a major problem with raised panel bits.. you had to pull it out as you could to get the full cut..

It pays to buy 1/2 shank bits when using the router table..


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## awcsgo (11 mo ago)

I called Ryobi. They told me that was an issue with their tables. So I wonder why in the heck they would sell something as compatable that doesn’t work?!? OMG.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

So did you take the router bit loose to see if you can extend it out rather than push it all the way in?


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

Its not unusual to pull the router bit out a bit to gain a little strategy e on length. 1/2 shank bits are s lot longer, but 1/4 arent, but you ca bbn pull it out some.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

As you can see the differences between 1/4 and 1/2 shank lengths.


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## Billybobb (May 16, 2020)

Great pictures(all), descriptions and discussions


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

So I took a look at that model at HD, and it will compress pretty far, but the springs are pretty stiff. If you are dedicating this router to the table it might be worth it to remove the springs. You'll have to look at an exploded view drawing to see how. I had to do this with an old PC 693 router base.

Wish I could have a better solution


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## awcsgo (11 mo ago)

I tried not inserting the shaft all the way, but it still doesn’t clear the table. I will try the 1/2” bits, then last resort, remove springs, since my plan is to commit it to the table. Thanks all!! I will let you know what works!


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum @awcsgo


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

G'day @awcsgo , welcome to the forum.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Hi and welcome. I suggest you switch to half inch shanks. I get half inch grommets and drop them into the bottom of the collet space, they're about 1/8 th thick so you can just bottom out your bit on top of that. Not familiar with Ryobi, but removing the spring is pretty common for using plunge routers in a table. Just put the spring in a safe place so it doesn't get lost. How you remove the spring is another question, but generally there is a screw on cap at the end of the tube. That should give you another inch or more. With the half inch shanks, that should get you going. 

For any bit much wider than an inch and a quarter across, get it with a half inch shank. The collet gets a tighter grip (more surface area for the collet to grip). Why such a fuss about half inch shanks for table use? Because that extremely sharp bit is spinning at 20,000 rpm and if it get spit out, it will tear up anything or anyone it hits.


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## awcsgo (11 mo ago)

DesertRatTom said:


> Hi and welcome. I suggest you switch to half inch shanks. I get half inch grommets and drop them into the bottom of the collet space, they're about 1/8 th thick so you can just bottom out your bit on top of that. Not familiar with Ryobi, but removing the spring is pretty common for using plunge routers in a table. Just put the spring in a safe place so it doesn't get lost. How you remove the spring is another question, but generally there is a screw on cap at the end of the tube. That should give you another inch or more. With the half inch shanks, that should get you going.
> 
> For any bit much wider than an inch and a quarter across, get it with a half inch shank. The collet gets a tighter grip (more surface area for the collet to grip). Why such a fuss about half inch shanks for table use? Because that extremely sharp bit is spinning at 20,000 rpm and if it get spit out, it will tear up anything or anyone it hits.


I ordered a set of 1/2” bits and will try that first! Thanks so much!


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## arfarfarf (Sep 4, 2011)

Search the interweb for a router collet extension. They exist but I do not know if one is made to fit your router.


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## arfarfarf (Sep 4, 2011)

What was I thinking. Of course it will fit your router but if you use 1/4 inch shanks then it will probably be subject to more deflection so you would have to take smaller bites until you ended up with the profile you wanted.


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## johnjory (Sep 19, 2013)

awcsgo said:


> I have a Ryobi Plunge Router installed in a Ryobi router table. I can't get the router bit to come up above the surface of the table, so it's impossible to cut anything. What am I doing wrong?? Any help will be appreciated, since I am so new at this.


Look up Router Collet Extenders on the web. In the USA they are in the $35 range. Alternately there are router lifts that that require removing the springs that are limiting you. Mine is a Router Raizer and costs about $100 US. I do not know if one is available for your model. It does take some effort to mount but, I have used mine for over 20 years and it works especially well. It is less than 1/2 the price of the next cheapest one.


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## mikep32 (Aug 26, 2014)

awcsgo said:


> I have a Ryobi Plunge Router installed in a Ryobi router table. I can't get the router bit to come up above the surface of the table, so it's impossible to cut anything. What am I doing wrong?? Any help will be appreciated, since I am so new at this.


I have an ancient 2hp hitachi router in a table, but still going strong. I removed the plunge springs and got all the depth i needed. If you are only going to use it in the table, maybe have a look at doing that.


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## fergy39 (Jul 12, 2012)

Your first problem is Ryobi. I have bought several Ryobi products in the past and have not been happy with any of them. Your second problem is trying to use a plunge router as a router lift in your table. I tried that with a 3 1/4 hp Triton with the springs removed on a Bench Dog Pro router cabinet and I had a similar issue raising the bit. You just need to bite the bullet and buy a good quality router lift. When you start using it, you will never regret it.
Buy a 1/2" collet and start using 1/2" bits for larger and deeper cuts. The cuts are much cleaner and more precise.
NEVER EVER raise the bits to get a deeper cut. If that bit comes out of the collet at 20,000 rpm, it will do some serious damage. I had one come out and go through the table.
The Router Raizer that Johnjory talked about is $114 at Amazon. It looks pretty basic and simple, and there is nothing wrong with simple.


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## iains2007 (Oct 18, 2021)

Hi, have you thought about getting an extension for the cutter, I've never used them so I'm unsure how secure they are, perhaps someone on here has experience with them


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

Careful with extensions.


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## iains2007 (Oct 18, 2021)

Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> Careful with extensions.


Don't they work or is it more careful about setting up, I've never used them so I'm unsure, that's why I suggested others on this forum would be better experienced


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

I had one on a raised panel bit. It let the panel bit go, luckily it didn't damage the bit or me..

If it were me I'd just hp get the 1/2 shank and get some length..


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## iains2007 (Oct 18, 2021)

Rebelwork Woodworking said:


> I had one on a raised panel bit. It let the panel bit go, luckily it didn't damage the bit or me..
> 
> If it were me I'd just hp get the 1/2 shank and get some length..


ouch, I've had various tool bits shatter, a chopsaw blade for instance and once had a tip from a TCT saw blade detach, neither one filled me with joy so I have a healthy respect for tools like that, I'm retired so I'm sorting out a small workshop for myself, I've acquired a Trend T11 router and I'll be getting a router table in a few months, that and a table saw should see my workshop complete and I can potter around on little things then


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## tdiorio649 (Nov 20, 2015)

Concerning collet extensions. I bought one years ago and couldn't use it. Made the exact opposite problem. Couldn't lower the bit enough. Extension was too long. Didn't really trust it anyway 

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk


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## Souza1969 (Jan 19, 2021)

It should not matter what shank or collet your using, so long as the shank has not been cut shorter. 

Let me ask a stupid question. Can you use a plunge router with that router table? I can't use the the plunge base of my PC690 router. I have to use the standard base on the PC698 table. You have to understand that a plunge base is much thicker, to support the shafts. Because of that extra thickness you lose some throw or depth on the bit. Is your plunge router listed as compatible with your table? According to this it is NOT compatible:


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/ryobi/comments/emv096


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## Souza1969 (Jan 19, 2021)

Everyone is seriously going back and forth here and no one checked the compatibility.....that's priceless 😂🤣


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## Souza1969 (Jan 19, 2021)

This guy ended up with 17 stitches trying what your doing. Please be careful and for God's sake read the manuals!!!!


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https://www.reddit.com/r/ryobi/comments/knan3a


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome @tdiorio649 on your first post.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

awcsgo said:


> I called Ryobi. They told me that was an issue with their tables. So I wonder why in the heck they would sell something as compatable that doesn’t work?!? OMG.


Ryobi is to Home Depot as Chicago Electric is to Harbor Freight. I once had three of the latter but don't have any of either anymore.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

Souza1969 said:


> This guy ended up with 17 stitches trying what your doing. Please be careful and for God's sake read the manuals!!!!
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/ryobi/comments/knan3a


Porter Cable double angle collets work the best. They exert a full length grip on the bit and dislodge after loosening with a single rap on the nut with the wrench. Work way better than my Triton, which requires backing off enough to pull the collet out the chuck like a wheel puller.


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## John Lennon (Jun 19, 2010)

Hi I had a similar problem, and installed a router bit extender.
See below
Staright 8mm to 12mm Shank Router Bit Extension Rod Collet Engraving Machine Extension Milling Cutter for Wood : Amazon.com.au: Home Improvement
ROUTER TECHNOLOGIES INC
I have the first one, as they did not have one in the second type that suited my router.
Mine has been excellent ever since I put it in.
Would have prefered the second type for it's quick release, but you can't have everything.
Regards John L.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

It would make no sense to add length. If you remove the factory plate and mount directly to the router insert plate and still can't get any depth, a lot more than needed an extension...


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

@awcsgo , if you are still battling: the springs are at maximum compression in your photos. The only way to get extra plunge depth is to remove the springs. I had to do the same to an identical, AEG-branded machine a while back. 
The procedure is very simple, and easily reversed for hand-held use.
1. Make sure the plunge lock lever is in the locked position, so that the body cannot move up or down unexpectedly.
2. Remove the nut and lock-nut from the long black threaded rod, which is fixed to the base.
3. Holding the body firmly, release the plunge lock lever.
4. Slide the body upwards away from the base, remove the springs and their dust boots, and slide the body back onto the two columns.
5. Relock the plunge lever, or the body will crash down (no springs to oppose the weight).
7. Replce the nut and lock-nut, or you will get an unpleasant surprise when you try to adjust bit height while the router is table-mounted (you have to release the plunge lock to do so).
You will gain at least 20 mm of plunge that way.


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