# Router jig for inlays



## dea (Jun 17, 2010)

I'm interested in cutting 1/2" wide, 1/16" to 1/32" inlays in plywood hoops. I've seen some plans for inlays and had an idea myself - which I've included as a pic. But, I don't believe my design would provide me with the fine adjustments I'd need for the inlays...but not sure. Anyway, here it is. This pic is looking at the router table from the top and only includes what is necessary on the top to place the hoop and roll it onto the router bit. Let me know what you think, or if you have a better more adjustable idea. Remember, I'm just starting and no very little.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Just ruminating here, but I'd think about cutting a wide "V" in a piece of ply or solid board, to replace the rollers. That way you could adjust it really fine by clamping one side/end and sorta pivoting the "V". 
Make sense?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

dea said:


> I'm interested in cutting 1/2" wide, 1/16" to 1/32" inlays in plywood hoops. I've seen some plans for inlays and had an idea myself - which I've included as a pic. But, I don't believe my design would provide me with the fine adjustments I'd need for the inlays...but not sure. Anyway, here it is. This pic is looking at the router table from the top and only includes what is necessary on the top to place the hoop and roll it onto the router bit. Let me know what you think, or if you have a better more adjustable idea. Remember, I'm just starting and no very little.
> 
> View attachment 36025


 Hi dea - Welcome to the forum
The only thing I notice is that you are running the "unfinished" edge on the guide bearing. Seems like that would transmit the error to the cutter and you would just be copying the rough edge.:blink: 
You said this is a "hoop" so you really have no center to reference to, is that right? Just how large are these "hoops"?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Demir

I would suggest not using the router table for that type of job,,I would suggest using the hand router, I can see a great deal of flex in the plywood that may turn the hoop into a shooting arrow across your router table.

I would suggest a two step up cir. plug for the hoop to ride on in a ship lap joint setup, than you will have a backup for the hoop to keep it's true cir. setup..with no flex in the plywood hoop..if you don't feel right about using your hand router you can do it the same way with a brass guide in router router table mounting plate...to run the bottom part of the two step cir. template to ride on..  and using a wide slot cut (stackup type) for the pass around the hoop..

or the bit below,it's a 1/2" wide cutter and it's very sharp, made to give you a nice clean cut..
MLCS Dado Clean Out Router Bits

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dea said:


> I'm interested in cutting 1/2" wide, 1/16" to 1/32" inlays in plywood hoops. I've seen some plans for inlays and had an idea myself - which I've included as a pic. But, I don't believe my design would provide me with the fine adjustments I'd need for the inlays...but not sure. Anyway, here it is. This pic is looking at the router table from the top and only includes what is necessary on the top to place the hoop and roll it onto the router bit. Let me know what you think, or if you have a better more adjustable idea. Remember, I'm just starting and no very little.
> 
> View attachment 36025


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

I did some inside and outside work on a basketball hoop clothes hamper. I sanded the outside on a drum sander in my DP. For the inside, I lowered the table, put the hoop on the table and raised it up. I had a piece of 1 inch pine with a large hole cut in it so the end of the drum would be below the top of the pine. The pine was bolted to the DP table. The I carefully followed the pencil line.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Perhaps I'm misunderstanding exactly what it is your wanting to do. Not sure if this in combination with the bit that Bj suggested would work.

Router Plates - Mortise Centering Baseplate Kit


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## dermer2002 (May 29, 2010)

Hello Demir,

I am definitely against the roller method that you suggest. Looks unstable and inaccurate.

My idea would be to create a radiused fence (similar to the green area in your diagram) but large enough to clamp down to the table. The radius would be equal to the outside diameter of your hoop. 

Use a rabbeting bit (in a relief in the fence) raised above the table to cut the inlay mortise. Depth of cut is then adjusted by moving the fence and re-clamping; very fine adjustments are possible by tapping the fence with a mallet. Light passes recommended.

You also need a backer block that would fit snuggly inside the hoop to prevent flex or distortion. If you have a lathe available turning a block to fit to your hoop would not take much time. You could also use a circle jig and rout a block to fit, but I think doing on the lathe would allow you to more easily match fit the block to any hoop.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

I do not know if I understood the problem, maybe this could help.

You can see the making at this address
http://www.lescopeaux.asso.fr/Techniques/clic.php3?url=Docs/Sante_Tripode.pdf


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