# Router table dimensions - t-tracks, mitres



## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

Yes it's another question about router tables sizes or more specifically spacings for t-tracks and mitres tracks. Yes, I have looked through the sticky thread 'Show us your router table' - some great tables there.

I've nearly finished building a paulk workbench which (optionally) has a router mounted at one end. The plans include options for a t-track mounted fence and a mitre track.

The bench is in two pieces, each 600mm wide. The mitre track is 1200mm and the 2 t-tracks are 600mm. The front of the t-track is level with the centre of the router plate ( in my case the plate is 300mm x 234mm).
My question is, Is there any advantage in being able to set the fence so far back from the router bit? Most of the router tables shown in this forum have quite short t-tracks for the fence, Incra jigs excepted.

I've included a drawing of the bench and the proposed track layout. I did add dimensions but couldn't convince Sketchup to show them


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Geoff,
I have an old 16" Incra positioner on my router table, had to add an extension on the back to mount it. I can get the fence back nearly 18" from the bit the way i'm set up. While I don't often go much deeper than 4" from the bit, if I need to run a quick dado or 2 I can easily do so in the center of a 32" piece of wood. Much faster than setting up a dado set in the table saw or clearing a spot on the workbench to clamp the jig I built for dados. 

I built a 30" bookshelf a few weeks ago, and it took just a few minutes to run the dados in the ends using the router table, would have taken a lot longer to tweak the dado set for the right width.

earl


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It appears to me that the track arrangement in the drawing will only allow use of the fence on the wide side of the table meaning that you will be stuck using only the narrow side for routing. I am a firm believer in offsetting the router in a table but so that the fence can be flipped around and either side of the table used. I dadoed a miter track groove into my last table and figured that I would install the track first time I needed it. I still haven't installed it after 3 years. I don't use a miter jig anyway, I just use a square push block against the fence but I thought I might use it for a featherboard. Really you don't need it for that either as you can't go too deep if the fence is properly set and it doesn't matter if you don't get all the wood cut in the first pass, you just make another pass. I do that anyway to make sure I get a smooth cut. For me, the miter track is pointless but there are many here who like them.


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

The more I think about it, the less inclined I am to actually have this router option on the new bench.
Dust collection will be an issue in the shed, not so much if you're set up outdoors.
As the bench is in two pieces, having the t-track set up as shown in the diagram means that either track sticks out from one side or you have to remove the t-track completely.

I might just add the reinforcing where required (a layer of 12mm ply under where the tracks and router plate cut-out will be). I always intall track and router plate at a later time.

This will also give me an excuse to build a proper router table :laugh:


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Geoff, you don't have to have any tracks at all. They are not absolutely necessary. 2 of my tables don't use them and many others here don't use them either. On the Router Workshop TV series that broadcast on public television they never used them. They just clamped the fence on the table with C or F type clamps and used a hammer to make fine adjustments. You can mount your fence on the long side, short side, or corner to corner that way if you want. There is no right or wrong way, just whatever you think will work best for you.

Adding extra ply under any weak spots is good but a sub frame, like floor joists for example, is far superior and will help keep your table level.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Geoff, I think you will be much happier with a stand alone router table. Here is something for you to consider: the most comfortable working height of a router table is 3-5" below your elbows. This gives you great control. While I have never really payed too much attention to work bench construction plans the same should be true of a work bench. This comes in very handy when you are routing long projects since your bench can help support the wood like a table extension. This is the way the Router Workshop table and bench were set up and I never realized it until now.

Many people like having T tracks and miter slots; I used them on my first table. Rick talked me into trying a Router Workshop table and I found that for me it is the best solution. Don't worry about the opinions of others but do listen to them. Like choosing a router you will be the one using it and you are the one who must be comfortable with it.


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

Thanks for the replies.
I'd already decided sometime back to build a dedicated router table, it's why I joined this forum. Perhaps the first project on the new ?

If I'm working away from home then a router table, even a basic one, could be handy. I'm at the stage of construction on the workbench where I have to make a decision on having the router option. It won't be practical to add it later.

I think what I'll do is to place the necessary reinforcing for the track and router plate but not actually install them until I have a need to.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

geoff_s said:


> Thanks for the replies.
> I'd already decided sometime back to build a dedicated router table, it's why I joined this forum. Perhaps the first project on the new ?
> 
> If I'm working away from home then a router table, even a basic one, could be handy. I'm at the stage of construction on the workbench where I have to make a decision on having the router option. It won't be practical to add it later.
> ...


Odd how this last post is almost word for word to your first post... No matter.

Look at this thread for ideas:
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/36085-jobsite-router-table-plus.html








That's my Jobsite table. Jobsites are away from home (lol). I have it planed out modularly as a combo work table, router table, crosscut saw table, rip saw table, jointer table, inverted jigsaw table. I have insert to convert over to what I need to do. That table's overall dimensions is 3" x 5'.

How that plan's drawing has the router is located is in one corner of the table. How I figure I want a router located in a table is at one end, centered. That way with long stock I have support on both sides. I can center the hole for the router fence and have it all the way across and secure it with clamps. I don't have any need for t-tracks on a jobsite, but I do for miter slots... And I already have miter slots in it for the table saw. The picture above is old, I had since contued the front miter slot across through my router table inserts.

It's quick, easy and simple to setup and adjust. When I'm not using the router, I pop the insert out and stick it in a 5 gallon bucket, with the router in the bucket supported at the lid by the insert. That way it's stored and out of harms way. That's also how it rides in my truck.

I'm not sawing that you need to build this. Just that dimension wise, think about your work and your work flow. Makes sense to have something that is from an easy reference point, can handle the size work you do and can adapt to what you need to do. 

I'm not bad mouthing t-tracks at all. I have many of them on equipment and jigs in my shop with a drawer of fittings and fixtures make them adaptable and I have good DC to keep the shavings at bay... But on a jobsite, where I'm in the weather, lot's of sawdust and dirt, sometimes not good light, and I don't care about or have good DC... I don't feel that's the place to have many small pieces to lose and tracks that can jamb if overloaded with shavings. T-tracks for me are more useful at home or in a shop. Just my experience with that. Miter tracks clear better in that kind of environment. ...And I always carry lots of clamps in my kit.

If you did decide you wanted T-tracks... the proportions on the drawing are off. The largest bit I have is 3-1/2" Diameter. 4" forward of center would more than shield a bit that size. You menver want to get anything between the bit and the fence, so if you need to move the fence behind the bit "completely," you might as well take the fence off.


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> Odd how this last post is almost word for word to your first post... No matter.


Sorry you found my posts confusing (although I thought quite different).

The point of the original post was to ask about recommended dimensions for track placement as the ones I had seemed to differ from information in this forum. Various useful answers given.

The end result is that I'll build a dedicated router table for the shed (one day) and not install the router option on the portable bench until I have use for it. As long as it's allowed for in the build, adding it later shouldn't be a major effort.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

geoff_s said:


> Sorry you found my posts confusing (although I thought quite different).
> 
> The point of the original post was to ask about recommended dimensions for track placement as the ones I had seemed to differ from information in this forum. Various useful answers given.
> 
> The end result is that I'll build a dedicated router table for the shed (one day) and not install the router option on the portable bench until I have use for it. As long as it's allowed for in the build, adding it later shouldn't be a major effort.


Since you are doing the work... Ask folks here what the dimensions Of the Grizzly Router plate is.. It's a common size. that way if you went ahead and cut out the place for it and used it in both tables... Of one each... Or just had a blank plate or piece of wood to use just as a plug until you do need it... then all you have to do is set it up. 

I think the standard for a plate size was 9-1/42" x 11-3/4', but for some changed their plate sizes to 8-1/4" x 11-3/4". 

What I did, was make the hole the size I would need if I went to someones router lift... and made plates that size, just in case that day ever came around. Most router lifts still have a plate size as 9-1/4" by 11-3/4"...


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