# Drum Sander Kit Build



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

I recently bought a kit to build the 18" V-Drum Sander from Stockroom Supply. The kit comes with a velcro drum and bushings, some rolls of velcro backed paper, 2 pulleys and a link belt. In most cases you would have to provide or buy a 1/4hp motor, but I built mine to work with my Shopsmith. You can buy the materials needed to build the box and top from them but I drew up a plan on Sketchup for the box and top and built my own.
The base is just a box with a hole for dust collection. I used pocket hole screws and glue to assemble the box. The hardest part of the whole project was figuring out how to put the slot in the top for the drum.

More pics in next post....


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

*Continued....*

In a previous post (listed below) I asked opinions on how to do the top, so this is what I came up with. If you want to see what part of the Sketchup plan looks like see this post...

http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/10074-how-would-you-do.html


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Looks good.

sb


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

So you suprised me you got it done sooner then I though great job.


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## Rolf Maxa (Feb 8, 2005)

Great job George, looking to build one for myself as soon as I find the time


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice job George

Once you take it for a test ride let me know what you think about it, I was not to happy with the one I made 

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curiousgeorge said:


> In a previous post (listed below) I asked opinions on how to do the top, so this is what I came up with. If you want to see what part of the Sketchup plan looks like see this post...
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/10074-how-would-you-do.html


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Nice. Great engineering.
I never thought of using a shop smith to power other tools like you did.
Opens up lots of ideas.
is the drive Pulley a shop smith attachment?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a butt in post 

Think Lovejoy Coupling drive, it will let you hook up many tools to the ShopSmith 

http://www.daltonbearing.com/Suppliers/Lovejoy-Inc.asp?gclid=CJThodGQ9pYCFQ2LDQodCGISXg

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Bogydave said:


> Nice. Great engineering.
> I never thought of using a shop smith to power other tools like you did.
> Opens up lots of ideas.
> is the drive Pulley a shop smith attachment?


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Bogydave said:


> Nice. Great engineering.
> I never thought of using a shop smith to power other tools like you did.
> Opens up lots of ideas.
> is the drive Pulley a shop smith attachment?


No. Shopsmith has a ton of attachments, but that's not one of them. The shaft on the Shopsmith is 5/8" and the balanced pulleys that came with the sander kit are 1/2", so I had to get a 5/8 to 1/2 work arbor from Woodcraft (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=01V11&FamilyID=894) for 5.99 to make the transition. The Shopsmith actually has 3 PTO's to run the special purpose tools available, like the band saw, planer, jointer, etc.
If you want to know more about a Shopsmith you can go to http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/index.htm.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Nice job George
> 
> Once you take it for a test ride let me know what you think about it, I was not to happy with the one I made
> 
> ======


Bj, so far I think I am going to like it. Once I got the table set up the correct height from the drum, it works great. According to the site, for proper set up, use the 220 grit paper on the drum and set it to about 1/32" or less below the top surface. Just enough to where if you run a straight edge over the drum it will not touch it. This setting will take a very light cut, so to take more off you just change to a bigger grit paper. Using the Velcro backed paper allows it to actually raise a fraction off the drum so that you aren't pinching the paper between the work and the drum like most other sanders.


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## sroxberg (Jul 9, 2009)

These posts are all at least one year old after some use do you like the unit, would you buy it again?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Steve

For my small part I would say NO,and NO, to your questions 


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sroxberg said:


> These posts are all at least one year old after some use do you like the unit, would you buy it again?


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## Raymondabel (Dec 18, 2009)

sroxberg said:


> These posts are all at least one year old after some use do you like the unit, would you buy it again?


I have the 24" flat master version with a ¾hp on 220V for more then a year now.
I just use it tonight.
So I would say yes & yes without esitation


Ray


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I've been looking at these for a long while now. Still hesitant to take the plunge. Thanks for the updates!


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Deb,
Mine is over a year old. I use it on nearly every project. 
It replaces (and, I mean REPLACES) a Performax. 
I have come to rely on it a lot for both flattening of inlays and smoothing edges.


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## newwoodworker (Mar 27, 2009)

Ive never used or seen one in person but the first concern that came to mind is the fact that my hands would be exerting downward force on the wood and if this thing happened to decide to snag the wood and zing it off the table that all that force that I was using to hold the wood flat against the table would now be shoving my hands down on the spinning sanding drum, has this ever been an issue? Now i understand push pads etc but lets face it the majority of us are not known for actually grabbing them things and using them.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Paul,
Not to worry. The sanding surface is adjusted to be about 1/32nd below the table. The rotation of the platen raises the velcro backed sand paper to meet the wood. 
To maintain consistency, I made finger board hold downs for each end of the platen.
I've never had the drum catch the wood and pull it through or, back at me. I always feed opposite of the drum rotation.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

curiousgeorge said:


> In a previous post (listed below) I asked opinions on how to do the top, so this is what I came up with. If you want to see what part of the Sketchup plan looks like see this post...
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/10074-how-would-you-do.html


Yup George:

That's pretty much got it. You're supposed to put it over your table saw blade set at 35-45 degree angle and raise the blade. I chickened out and merely cut a 45 down the middle and now I have two sides that open for changing grits. I use a fence to lock the top perfectly flat. I also built a "bit" of adjustment into the height of the drum. Works like a charm. Fine adjusting tool ready.

Deb, you should have seen this at the Woodstock Woodworking show. You're also about an hour's drive from their "location" just up behind Smithville. They have a full line of abrasives etc.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

Save your money up and get a real surface sander, they are almost as good as a planer. it's almost like using your router to get the stock flat , not the right tool for the job and the planer will do the job better all day long, you can find good used ones  "surface sander"

I can show you the water but I can't make you drink 


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CanuckGal said:


> I've been looking at these for a long while now. Still hesitant to take the plunge. Thanks for the updates!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

BJ I have looked at many surface sanders... the problem is space. Those units are large (even the samll ones). I need something I can tuck away some where when not in use. 
Ron I have seen these units at the wood shows several times. I came close to pulling the trigger in Woodstock, but I would probably save a few dollars and build my own unit with their roller and parts. My main hesitation comes from thinking the few parts they are actually selling you are a bit over priced. 
The other feedback I am looking for from people who own these units is about the consistancy of the cuts. I realize it is a VERY small amount of surface that is actually being removed with these sanders, but can you actually get FLAT surfaces with it? It would seem to need some sort of hold down for consistancy??? Gene you mentions finger boards, I would love to see a picture of your set up.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Deb,
It's simply two "L"s made by joining two pieces each (MDF) at 90 deg., clamping them to each end of the table, just over the ends of the drums. To these I clamp shop made finger boards. 
These same "L"s serve as fences for running pieces on edge.
BTW, with judicious application of the hold downs, a 20" wide piece can be sanded to .005 flatness, both end to end and side to side. Good enough for me.
To those who use cantilevered drum sanders, I am glad you find them useful. I could NEVER keep my Performax aligned to my satisfaction. Precise tool? Ha! Mine sure wasn't. Of course, mine was one of the first models. Hopefully, they improved both the manual and the alignment system when they were sold to what ever company sells them, now.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Deb

Amazon.com: JET 628900 Mini 10-Inch 1-Horsepower Benchtop Drum Sander, 115-Volt 1-Phase: Home Improvement: Reviews, Prices & more
Amazon.com: JET 629004K 16-32 Plus 16-Inch 1-1/2-Horsepower Open Stand Drum Sander, 110-Volt 1 Phase: Home Improvement


The last time I check on the *kit* it was about 300.oo plus sand paper..plus shipping

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CanuckGal said:


> BJ I have looked at many surface sanders... the problem is space. Those units are large (even the samll ones). I need something I can tuck away some where when not in use.
> Ron I have seen these units at the wood shows several times. I came close to pulling the trigger in Woodstock, but I would probably save a few dollars and build my own unit with their roller and parts. My main hesitation comes from thinking the few parts they are actually selling you are a bit over priced.
> The other feedback I am looking for from people who own these units is about the consistancy of the cuts. I realize it is a VERY small amount of surface that is actually being removed with these sanders, but can you actually get FLAT surfaces with it? It would seem to need some sort of hold down for consistancy??? Gene you mentions finger boards, I would love to see a picture of your set up.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

OK BJ they are worth a look but pricey. Again Amazon doesn't ship tools to Canada.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

Ok so you can't put gas in your new car for 30 days that should just about cover the cost of the new tool 

But you have a new truck also that needs some miles put on it..

Many members are just south of you over the line I'm sure one of them would take a drop box for you 

http://www.amazon.com/629004K-16-In...dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

http://www.amazon.com/628900-10-Inc...dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1
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CanuckGal said:


> OK BJ they are worth a look but pricey. Again Amazon doesn't ship tools to Canada.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Deb:



CanuckGal said:


> My main hesitation comes from thinking the few parts they are actually selling you are a bit over priced.
> The other feedback I am looking for from people who own these units is about the consistancy of the cuts. I realize it is a VERY small amount of surface that is actually being removed with these sanders, but can you actually get FLAT surfaces with it? It would seem to need some sort of hold down for consistancy??? Gene you mentions finger boards, I would love to see a picture of your set up.


Ok, this is different than thickness planers or thickness sanders. You don't apply pressure to the wood when sanding it. You change the "depth of cut" by changing the sand paper. Will it sand flat? Yes, parts of the surface that stand out get more aggressive sanding than those parts of the surface that are indented. Change to a finer grit and you reduce the depth of cut.

I have the 24" pushed by a sealed 1/3 HP motor and a link belt. I load two grits at a time. Nothing I'm doing right now needs fine grain showing so I'm using 100 and 180 grits on the same drum. With 60 grit I take off about 18 thou. I can remove about 5 layers of paint pretty much in one slow pass. 

With 320 grit I take off about 1-2 thou. To "set" the height, set it up, turn it on with the coarsest grit you'll use and run a board through. Measure the amount removed. Too much? Adjust your drum down. Repeat until you're taking off a consistent amount every time. Now use your paper to adjust the depth of cut. Bang on every time.


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## SteveInGb (Jan 17, 2013)

*ShopSmith question*

Hello, I realize this thread is quite old, but I do have a question for George or anyone else with a shopsmith that happens to see this: 

Why not drive the drum directly with the shopsmith, in lieu of using the pulley (I'm thinking that would get the working surface a bit lower and easier to use). Although I'm not sure how you would make the connection.

Thanks,
Steve


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

SteveInGb said:


> Hello, I realize this thread is quite old, but I do have a question for George or anyone else with a shopsmith that happens to see this:
> 
> Why not drive the drum directly with the shopsmith, in lieu of using the pulley (I'm thinking that would get the working surface a bit lower and easier to use). Although I'm not sure how you would make the connection.
> 
> ...


Steve, I originally had my sander powered with my Shopsmith using pulleys and a link-belt before I bought a motor for it. Either way works with the Shopsmith having the advantage of variable speed. I'm sure it could be hooked up direct to the shaft somehow. I already had the pulley that fit the shaft so I didn't even try to figure how to hook it up direct.


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