# Advice on making trim/molding



## JOHN WELSH (Jul 29, 2009)

I have an unlimited supply of bluestain (beetle kill) pine and would like to make molding and door casing to trim my basement that I am finishing. I am capable of turning the trees into rough cut lumber of any size. What I need is advice as to how to use a router to to make the trim. I'm not looking for anything fancy, but because of "floating walls" in the basement some of the trim needs to be 5" tall.

Any advice or sources of info would be greatly appreciated.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the RouterForums John.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

John I would also like to welcome you to the router forums.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

John,
I presume by trim you mean what we here in U/K call skirting to go at the junction of floor and wall, so, I think if you want to produce a fair amount of it you must get yourslf,(or Build) a router table, that will speed up the process and make the accuracy a lot better, then you can run you trim against a fence into whatever moulding cutter you choose.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

John, many people do not realize that the wood has to age or dry before you can use it. If your wood is fresh cut today you will need to rough it to size and then stack and store it for at least 6 months and maybe longer before you will be able to use it. You can greatly shorten the drying time by using a kiln to season the wood. Most of us do not have the storage space needed for air drying or the time. Perhaps you can work a deal with a local mill to exchange your lumber for some that is ready to use?


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

"Floating walls"??? You don't mean to say you have suspended your basement walls from the ceiling??? I hope I have it confused, that wouldn't be good, floor ceilings flex too much and will eventually do damage to shtrk. Building codes are pretty picky about flex wiring hence horseshoe nailing. This would also force you to float the baseboard to prevent bouncing off the concrete.

Like Mike says you need to rough cut the stock to cure it. Curing goes beyond letting it sit, it needs to be spaced and rotated for air flow to prevent uneven drying, (cupping and rolling) you'll need a moisture meter too, trim and furniture lumber is best milled at 10% and less moisture content. I cooked the oak for my last water bed frame for a yr before milling it, (9%MC)

Do you have a surface planer?
If you have a table saw there are a few profiles you can route free hand on flat stock and then rip with the TS. Know this a router table gives you more options with the bits you have that free hand make difficult and unsafe.

A common practice and maybe you'll consider it, create flat stock with your bonanza and apply store bought molding above it for the baseboard. For continuity dupe it on the windows


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