# Router Table/Cabinet Build



## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

I completed the router table build I started back in July (wow has it been that long?). Work schedules, family, and illness kept me at a slow pace, but somehow I managed to get through it, despite upper 90* F temps . I tried to take copious pics and I am way behind posting, so I will try to spread this out over multiple postings.

First, I have to post an ugly picture of the table I had been using. You can see it is way undersized for the Incra Jig, and you can also see many of my newbie mistakes (I built this table over 20 years ago and could barely spell router at the time).

Next you see my sketchup drawings of the design I had in mind. I stuck with this pretty closely. I was very satisfying building something from my own drawings. The only changes you will see is that the doors ended up being raised panel and I decided to go with two large doors rather than the large doo and two smaller. Also the hardboard I had was 3/16" as opposed to 1/4" so I had to adjust for that.

The overall dimensions are 28" by 42" and about 35" tall. The casters are from woodcraft, 3" double locking...they add about 4 1/4" to the height which I had to plan for to keep the tabletop flush with the table saw (for an outfeed table).

The frame is constructed from resawn 2x4s to provide strength (and keep costs down). Three of these are laminated together to form the corner posts. The panels as I said are 3/16" hardboard. The drawer design is simply using 3/4" hardwood (red oak) on which the drawer boxes slide.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

The joinery for the frame is loose tenon. For this I built a simple jig to create the many mortises required. The tenons are easy to make...just round over the edges of a 1/2" board and slice to length on the table saw. For the center posts the mortise goes all the way through and I use a 3 1/4" tenon to join all three pieces together at once. I had very mixed feelings about this, but in the end it has proven to be a very rock solid construction.
The last pic shows my dry fit up of the frame (nix the panels). A little TLC on the tenons and I was able to get things to fit square and flush.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Here is a pic of a dry fit of one of the frame sections. I glued up each of these "8"s first and then assembled the cross pieces and back panels to build the final frame. But before doing so, I wanted to cut the shelves for a couple reasons...I didn't know if I would have ample room to install the shelves after the frame was complete and I figured the shelf would help square things up. Turns out there was plenty of room to install the shelves, but it did help square up the final glue up. The last pic shows the frame all sanded and ready for finish. I like to do this outside since I really don't have any decent dust control as yet (it is high priority).


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

Great work. When it is done many pictures of finised projects done on this table will be expected. When much is given much is expected. Or put another way the more projects completed the more swmbo realizes can be done.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Next I thought would document the table top construction. This seems to intimidate some folks, so I thought I would walk through this in a little detail. It is really easy. First I cut the 3/4" MDF. One piece is cut to size, the other is about 1/2" larger in both dimensions. You will see why in a moment.
Using a 99c brush, I brush on a thin layer of contact cement working from one end to the other. Be sure to coat both surfaces. Do not re-brush over contact cement once it starts to dry or it will gel up and form some nasty boogers and you will not get a nice flat joint. The most important thing with contact cement is to be sure to let it dry. The container says to wait at least 20 to 30 minutes and with the humidity I decided that really meant about 45 minutes. When it is dry it looks dull and is only slightly tacky. This is unintuitive, but believe me, when these two surfaces make contact you will not be able to separate the two without damage.
To ensure the pieces are place properly, use some dowel rods...it keeps the pieces separated until you can place them properly. When the pieces are where you want them you can remove the dowel rods and allow the pieces to come together. With stiff material like MDF, I remove the dowels from one end and work toward the other. I use a hammer and piece of scrap wood to pound the surface every 6" inches or so to finalize the joint. Well it is dinner time so I throw a few of my benchtop toys on top for a little extra claming pressure. This is overkill, but doesn't hurt.
Remember that overlap? It makes it easier to join the two pieces and can easily be trimmed away with a flush trim router bit. The Formica laminate is pretty much the same process...only when I remove the dowel rods I start in the center and work my way towards the sides...all the while smoothing the laminate and making sure there are no bubbles.

PS. Please excuse the gratuituous pic of the Prius...it was only a couple weeks old when that pic was taken


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

vikingcraftsman said:


> Great work. When it is done many pictures of finised projects done on this table will be expected. When much is given much is expected. Or put another way the more projects completed the more swmbo realizes can be done.


Thanks John, As you will soon see I have already used the table to make the raised panel doors and a few other doo dads. I am liking it already, and swmbo already has a couple projects lined up for me (and I hope to score a band saw in the process )


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

For the next step I wanted to go ahead and cut the hole/recess for the router plate. I did a horrible job of this on the first table so I wanted to be sure I would get it right this time. There are about a half dozen ways to do this, but I settled on using a template...figuring I could test the template on scrap and adjust if necessary before committing to my table top. Turns out that was a good plan as I messed up the first couple templates before getting one I liked.

To make the template I just drew around the existing plate, drilled out the corners with a forstner bit of appropriate radius, and then connected the dots with a straight edge and a flush trim bit. If I had to do it over I would probably just use template bushings with the router plate....would have been a whole lot simpler.

Next I carpet taped the template to the table top where I wanted it. I added an extra board to one side to give the router some extra support. A few passes with a pattern bit and Wah Lah! After cutting out the center piece with a jig saw the PRL-V2 from Woodpeckers is a perfect fit!


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Next step was to put on the hardwood edging. In most cases the red oak lined up flush with the formica, but in a few places it sat a tad proud, maybe 1/32" of an inch. I think it was George who told me this was short work with a hand plane and that it would just scoot across the formica while shaving the wood flush...and by golly he was right. When finished, you can not tell by touch where the formica ends and the wood starts. Before putting on the long pieces I put a 1/2" round over on the ends. After setting overnight I planed and sanded everything. Nice enough to eat off of.

Before mounting the top, I wanted to go ahead and install the drawer glides as I figured this would be tough to do without benefit of working from the top. I was a bit perplexed as to how to install the drawer glides so that they would be parallel and aligned properly. To solve this I just used an old piece of OSB I had in the scrap pile. I cut it the proper height on the TS and used it on both sides to line up the guide. Worked like a champ. I just kept cutting it down until I got to the bottom guide.

Also before mounting the top I decided to drill and mount the Incra Jig...it is starting to come together.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

I now turn my attention to making the doors and drawers. I used clear pine from Lowe's which interestingly has a sticker indicating "Imported from Germany". Hmm, plenty of pine around here, but oh well.

The panels are glued up...I usually put a piece of wax paper on top the TS, but must of had a brain fart this time...time to get out the steel wool. After sanding down the panels are ready to cut to size, but I will make the rails and stiles first and then cut to measured size.

I didn't take a lot pics on the rails and stiles build, it is pretty much run of the mill raised panel stuff you can read about in lots of places. But I did one to include this one pic showing off the Woodpecker PRL-V2 lift and the Jesada combination rail and stile bit. This was probably the easiest raised panel door set that I've done yet do to the ease of use of the lift.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Frank that is an excellent write up and the router table gets an A+ as far as I am concerned. My table is 34X47 and is also used as an out flow for my TS.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Building the boxes for the drawers was good fun. I used the Incra Jig and decided to ahead and use full through dovetails. It was very educational. My 5/8" bit was perfect leaving the pins and tails just a bit proud for a nice flush finish after sanding. The boxes themselves are made from regular 1x4 firring strips, an 8' board goes for about $1.77 (I am cheap). Hardboard used for the bottoms.

For the drawer faces I am gluing up clear pine. here I remembered the wax paper but had another brain fart in that I used the pipe clamps and made no provision for keeping the panels flat. They were flat when I went to bed, but this is what it looked like in the morning. After cutting to pieces it was not a big deal to sand them flat....it looks much worse than it was.

For the drawer pulls I decided to go with something shop built. I saw these in one of those 9.99 shop tips books put out by Shop Notes. They are easy to make on the RT...just 3 different cuts...cove, chamfer, and rabbet. Best to make them on the ends of a longer board and then just cut off the ends when done making the cuts.

Next pic is my setup on the Incra Jig to cut the mortise for the pulls. The stops are set to land the mortise between the marks on the board. Since the pulls will be centered on all the drawer faces I do not have to adjust the stops, just move the fence to the right offset.

I decided to use the same pulls on the drawer faces and the doors for a consistent look.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Installing the drawer faces was a bit tricky. The trick was to put a piece of double sided tape on the box and then slide it into the face after getting it positioned correctly. Then drill and screw in place. To keep the distance between adjacent faces right, I used four pieces of sandpaper stacked as spacers. It worked out just about right.

I finished everything with three coats of Wipe On Poly. I really like working with this stuff, but I think I will cut costs and try to mix my own next time.

To position the doors, I found a nice level place on the garage floor and stacked just enough scraps to get the door where I wanted it and then just screwed it in place. The upper door was positioned by placing a steel ruler on top of the lower door and screwing into place.

The remaining photos are of the finished build. It took much longer than I ever thought it would, but I am so glad I took on this project. It gave me a chance to try some new things and I learned a lot. Having the table on casters is also great for my little shop. I can back the car out and move the table out of the way. It almost feels like I have more room now than I did before.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> Frank that is an excellent write up and the router table gets an A+ as far as I am concerned. My table is 34X47 and is also used as an out flow for my TS.


Thanks Jerry. I hope one day to build a cabinet under my contractor saw and also make it mobile, but I think I will take on some smaller projects first .


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Frank,

A most excelent router table build. Your post is fantastic and sharing it with us is most appreciated.

That table isn't missing any bells or whistles!


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Bob said:


> Frank,
> 
> A most excelent router table build. Your post is fantastic and sharing it with us is most appreciated.
> 
> That table isn't missing any bells or whistles!


Thanks Bob, The forums have been very beneficial to me and I just want to make sure I give back as well.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

That is just beautiful! Excellent work and a very good write up with great pictures. Thanks!


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

CanuckGal said:


> That is just beautiful! Excellent work and a very good write up with great pictures. Thanks!


Thanks Deb. It was a bigger job than I initially anticipated, but it should serve me well for a very long time. I wasn't really going for eye appeal, but I have to say, I am enjoying the look of the pine.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Excellent job Dustmaker your very inspiring to all of us I am sure of that.

I really appreciate you taking the time to document how you built this router table. I learned a few pointers which I will keep in mind when I build mine. I am planning on doing in my tablesaw extension but want to make a mobile cabinet to wheel underneath the extension and then raise it underneath.

But I have to say your RT looks awesome and once again thanks you should be very proud of that project it looks very professional.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

nICE Job

====


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Thanks guys, your kind and encouraging comments are most appreciated!


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Golly.. and I thought I was the only one with an aircraft carrier landing deck for a router table.. but I have company! Great job!


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> Golly.. and I thought I was the only one with an aircraft carrier landing deck for a router table.. but I have company! Great job!


Lol, you are right, but I do plan to put it to good use, or maybe rent it out to the Air Force. Thanks!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Frank I again say what an excellent build and write up. I can take lessons from you and TRN Diesel on the write ups. Usually when I get to that point I am just too tired so I through a few Pix at it and hope everyone can figure it out. BTW, you will be able to make some serious saw dust with that table.

As for Big Jim, there are three of us with aircraft carriers for router tables. I too use mine as a run out for the TS.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Thanks Jerry,

Your warm comments are very much appreciated. I really should have posted while doing the build instead of waiting til the end...that was a lot of work to do at one time, but it seemed any spare time I had I just wanted to be in the shop making dust. I did try to get as many pics as I could remember while going through it. I don't know how Dan does it; with the speed at which he works and the time he puts into the writeups...it is just phenomenal. 

I am working on a clock/picture frame doo-dad for my desk at work right now and hope to be able to post some pics this weekend...I am really having a lot of fun and I think it is mostly because of the group here and having the chance to share and learn.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Great looking set up! Nice job. 

Corey


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## ebill (Jan 17, 2009)

dustmaker said:


> Lol, you are right, but I do plan to put it to good use, or maybe rent it out to the Air Force. Thanks!


- I can't stand seeing one more picture from folks who have 'acres' of table while I continue to curse my Lilliputian table top every time I use it <g>. 

- nice write up and pics. 

- Note to self: build new Godzilla size router table this winter ! 

- ebill


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

dustmaker said:


> Thanks Deb. It was a bigger job than I initially anticipated, but it should serve me well for a very long time. I wasn't really going for eye appeal, but I have to say, I am enjoying the look of the pine.


Just read your post, that is a nice RT. My wife would like those doors and drawer fronts on the cabinets in her kitchen, she likes the "country look". I need to build a new RT, might try the doors like that to get some practice making raised panels, before I do the doors and drawer fronts for the kitchen.$17,500+ for cabinets from Lowes and they are only painted. I can buy a lot of tools for that, Maybe even a bigger shop too.:dance3:


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Nice job!!!

And heavy duty too!

You could park that Prius on top and it would not even sag!!!!

I can not wait to build my own proper router table. Mine started out as a thigh high table and over many years has morphed into a router table. It has loosened up over the years and I have scabbed plywood onto it just to keep it from rocking and a rolling. It just had another mod to accomodate the new table top.

Well, after seeing your table and others here at the forum, I have been shamed into making a proper one.

Once I am finished with my buddys kitchen, I am taking your lead.

Thanks for sharing and enjoy the combo you put together. That is top notch equipment.


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

*Sketchup?*

Awesome work!

I like the design well enough that I might shamelessly copy it when I get to building a cabinet; seeing your original drawing pics, I wonder: Do you have a Google Sketchup file for the framing?

Thanks-

Bob


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Bob,

Thank you, I appreciate the compliment. I do have the sketchup file and would be happy to share it with you. It is on my computer at home, so I will have to remember to do this when I get home...if I forget, yell at me, I do that at times  I think I can attach it to a post, but will probably have to put it in a zip file as the forum will not permit the sketchup filetype.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

*Sketchup file*

Here ya go! The only thing I did different, besides the door design is that my hardboard was 3/16" not 1/4", so I had to compensate for that. Other than that I pretty much followed the plan. Hope this helps.


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

Thanks, Frank... no rush, at least for me.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

I was just going to ask why you did not permanently mount your Incra fence?

Does it share duty with your table saw or something?


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

timbertailor said:


> I was just going to ask why you did not permanently mount your Incra fence?
> 
> Does it share duty with your table saw or something?


A very good question and I thank you for asking. No, I have the Incra Jig on the TS as well  :yes4:...One of the best purchases I every made, IMO. I am very space challenged in my garage-shop and so the router table will sometimes double as a workbench/assembly/outfeed table. Most times I can just retract the fence all the way back and have plenty of room to work, but I wanted the option of having the total tabletop space. So far I haven't had to remove it, but I am sure the day will come...


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

dustmaker said:


> A very good question and I thank you for asking. No, I have the Incra Jig on the TS as well  :yes4:...One of the best purchases I every made, IMO. I am very space challenged in my garage-shop and so the router table will sometimes double as a workbench/assembly/outfeed table. Most times I can just retract the fence all the way back and have plenty of room to work, but I wanted the option of having the total tabletop space. So far I haven't had to remove it, but I am sure the day will come...


I would love to have an Incra on my TS but I have found that it gets in the way when working with larger sheets of plywood. I am always removing the standard fence and the thought of doing the same with the Incra just was not worth the extra bit of accuracy for me in the end. I too had mine temporarily mounted to the router table so I could use it on the TS but after just one swap, it just did not work for me.

I too am space limited so having a 72 or 92" guide bar system was prohibitively long for storage space.

Glad to hear you can make it work for you.


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## Gmex (Sep 16, 2009)

*RT Cabinet*

Frank,

Nice looking RT. I have built a 32x53 top for my RT. I want to eventually get the Incra fence for the RT.

I'm curious about how you use it for your TS as well.

Do you have the rail on the TS and use the the carriage on both the TS and RT.
How does it work for you? Is changing the carriage a big issue? I would like to have both systems, eventually or try what you are doing.

Thanks,

G.L.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

When building my RT, i wanted to be able to make use of the table as much as possible. So when it came time to mount the incra fence I went with this setup (see pics) when not inuse, I can easily remove the fence, hang it on the side of my cabinet out of the way. The same kind of attaching mechanism can be incorporated into my TS for those times when 
seriously dead on cuts are required.. Just happened to have bought the Incra TS fence on ebay the other night. Fence and carriage for 11.00 bucks.

When it comes time for setting up the rig for the TS, I'll look into the use of some heavy duty magnets. With whats out there now, I'm thinking this might work out well. I suspect that a certain amount of caution will be needed if rails arn't incorporated. If you do use rails, then ya almost have to concede to using the Incra fence whenever you want to use the TS since I don't see a way to use both the rails and the guide bar a a typical fence requires..


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## Gmex (Sep 16, 2009)

*Router Table/ Cabinet Build*

Bill,

Your response have given me some ideas on how to mount a fence on my table. I'm leaning towards the Incra system, for both the RT and TS. I was thinking of interchanging between the RT/TS . I would get the 32" LS system.
It seems easy to remove the fences but wondering if it would get tiresome of switching after a while. Any thoughts on this idea?

G.L.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

What a steal on that Incra system off eBay.:dance3:


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Gmex said:


> Frank,
> 
> Nice looking RT. I have built a 32x53 top for my RT. I want to eventually get the Incra fence for the RT.
> 
> ...


Gerry,

Sorry for the late response, I have been out of town without access to a computer! I have a dedicated Incra Jig on my tablesaw so I don't bother with removing it. If I need to cut larger panels, I do it with the circular saw and a jig.


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## Gmex (Sep 16, 2009)

*Router Table/ Cabinet Build*

Frank,
Thanks for your response. I did not read your post correctly the first time, where you explain your setup. You have both systems TS/RT and by the pictures of your RT, you can remove the fence on the RT and use it as a work table.

G.L.


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

*Thanks!*



dustmaker said:


> Here ya go! The only thing I did different, besides the door design is that my hardboard was 3/16" not 1/4", so I had to compensate for that. Other than that I pretty much followed the plan. Hope this helps.


Just noticed the sketchup, awesome... 

Garage interior/workshop to be completed AT LATEST by end of November, this will be at the top of the stack after that! 

Bob


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## Padawan Learner (Oct 12, 2009)

Thanks for the inspiration. Like you, I started building a router table/cabinet and had to waylay it for a while. But now I will be getting back into it this weekend. Your post was an excellent how-to. Make me think you ought to be in the education business, too.


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## GB-Pete (Oct 27, 2009)

frank, that is one gorgious piece of work! One day I maybe able to create such a masterpiece? Do you know of any PDF downloads with router table/cabinets on so that I can have a go?

Pete


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Thanks guys. I really appreciate all the kind words. It was definitely one of the larger projects I've done in a while, but very worthwhile and a heckuvalotta fun. The irony is that I just bought a lathe and now it is serving as a lathe stand...but that's why I built it big and put wheels on it...adds to the versatility. I'll get back to using the router soon enough, I have several other projects I need to finish before Christmas!

Peter, off the top of my head I can't locate any plans, but I know from my own research that there are tons of plans and web links here in the archives. I am sure if you do a forum search and dig a little you will find plenty of ideas! Have fun.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Gerry...

sorry for the late comeback... As for thoughts on removing the fence from TS to RT and back I guess that would all depend on you. The Incra TS setup come with stops that allow for quick repositioning of the rig. At one point during my RT build I had thought about putting
incra rails on the RT knowing that eventually I'd be getting a TS rig. In the end, I decided against it thinking that the rails would be in the way. Welp. hindsite is 90/10 *S*. The rail on the backside (DC side) definately would not be in the way of anything and on the front side I dont' see it being a problem either. So, I'm back to considering doing it. The only downside I can think of would be clamping issues. But since I installed
combo tracks on three sides on the back side, don't see a problem now. Having the back side of the table handy for small assembly and pockethole jigs has proven very handy. As for moving the Fence to and from the RT to TS...personally. I dont' see it being a problem when using Incra rails. There are even a few folks on ebay who sell alumium rails that might just work and at a fraction of the cost of Incra rails...


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## kmcbride21 (Nov 12, 2009)

That is a beautiful table. It has inspired me to start building my own. It will be the biggest project I've tried to date, but I want to build kitchen cabinets and building this table will give me invaluable experience.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

* I want to build kitchen cabinets and building this table will give me invaluable experience. *

It will also give you a good tool for the job!


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## Melvin (Oct 30, 2009)

I know I am responding to an old post and I am still learning how to use this forum. You said you are building a table saw extension router top with a cabinet under that will slide in and attach to the router table. That is exactly what I am in the process of doing. I would be interested in seeing your results if I can figure out how to find them, if you posted any pictures, Thanks, Melvin


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## jimini2001 (Mar 28, 2010)

Phenomenal table. Wish I had the time to put into something as nice as this.


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## Ziggs (Dec 29, 2011)

Frank, I love this design. I am close to starting to build my router table. I just am finishing building my assembly table and this will be my next project. I am fairly new to the router world and my only expierence with a router table was my dads old one which is small and sits on top of the bench. When I was starting to lay out and design my table I was thinking I would be standing in front of it (in your picture with your knees at the drawer side. I see your and other people going on what I would call the side of the cabinet. I see the fence you have you need the extra room. What is the advantage of going that way verses the original way I was thinking. Glad I saw these different tables as that wasn't even a thought in my head. Great design.


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