# t-slot mayhem



## blurry (Jan 14, 2009)

alright, maybe the title is a little dramatic  So I'm new to all this, but I'm eager to cut my own t-slots for a framing jig attempt  Thing is that I can't seem to figure out out what the standard t-slot size is and where to get a cutter. I will be using primarily real T-Bolts, but would like the ability to put a regulr 1/4" bolt in in case I'm in a pinch.

some bits look like they can cut the entire t-slot in one pass - though I've read this can cause burns and the bit to overheat. The rockler bit only works if you cut a dado first - which is fine if a single pass isn't the way to go. so confused 

MLCS: http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_keyhl.html

ROCKLER: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=1572&TabSelect=Details Thing with the rockler is that they didn't specify the cutting diameter

ROCLER 2: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=11061&TabSelect=Details This cuts a 1 1/16 slot which seems pretty big...

Eagle: http://eagleamerica.com/t-slat-wallchannel-bits/p/143-0702/ the 143-0982 looks the closest

any tips?

thanks!


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## blurry (Jan 14, 2009)

no takers? pretty please ?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi blurry

I like to use the key hole bits,, the one that works the best for me is the one I get from HD,,,It's yellow bit (_orphan brand I think) _

It takes a pass or two but it a great bit for tee-slots..


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blurry said:


> alright, maybe the title is a little dramatic  So I'm new to all this, but I'm eager to cut my own t-slots for a framing jig attempt  Thing is that I can't seem to figure out out what the standard t-slot size is and where to get a cutter. I will be using primarily real T-Bolts, but would like the ability to put a regulr 1/4" bolt in in case I'm in a pinch.
> 
> some bits look like they can cut the entire t-slot in one pass - though I've read this can cause burns and the bit to overheat. The rockler bit only works if you cut a dado first - which is fine if a single pass isn't the way to go. so confused
> 
> ...


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*I'm also watching your thread for information.*



blurry said:


> I will be using primarily real T-Bolts, but would like the ability to put a regulr 1/4" bolt in in case I'm in a pinch.


I wish I could help you on a bit choice, but I'm also watching your thread for information.

IMHO: You really have to have tight tolerances to use a 1/4" hex-head instead of a T-bolt. Also, in wood, with a hex-head, use it once or twice and it will start spinning after gouging the inside of your home-made T-slot. I would suggest avoiding the use of 1/4" bolts unless you can find square headed bolts with heads as large as the diameter of real T-bolts.

I found an old piece of aluminum channel that strangely resembles the channel stock used now-a-days for the T-slot channels. Only mine was from those wall mounted shelf brackets. I was searching for more, because the t-channel is so darn expensive, but it's impossible to find. It's aluminum and a short piece of it passed some grueling tests for me with 1/4-20 hex heads. If I found more, it would lend itself nicely to T-channel use as the whole length has slots cut in it, originally for the application of the shelf brackets, that would make nice attachment points for small screws! It also could be cut to smaller lengths, perhaps even for use in a application such as yours.

Cordially,
Gerry


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

I use hex head bolts but I don't care for them I use toggle bolts,,they are full thread and a with a quick grind job on the head then slip right into the slot..and they are about 1/5 the price of tee-slot bolts...



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Gerard_sr said:


> I wish I could help you on a bit choice, but I'm also watching your thread for information.
> 
> IMHO: You really have to have tight tolerances to use a 1/4" hex-head instead of a T-bolt. Also, in wood, with a hex-head, use it once or twice and it will start spinning after gouging the inside of your home-made T-slot. I would suggest avoiding the use of 1/4" bolts unless you can find square headed bolts with heads as large as the diameter of real T-bolts.
> 
> ...


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*There you go again Bob!
I tell ya' this guy is just FULL of ideas that work!
LOL
Pat on the back for you again Bob!*

Cordially,
Gerry


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

I use toilet flange bolts. The head is already oval, so no grinding needed.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

I have heard of people using loo seat bolts before it came up on another site early last year.
Derek.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI George

That's true but anytime you buy bolts one at a time (bubble pack)they are not cheap so to speak,, you can buy a box of pan hd. toggle bolts ( box of 50 ) for 8.oo dollars, that makes them 16 cents each..but not from the hardware or the HD stores, a bolt and nut supply store outlet the same place where the hardware and the HD get their stock,sometimes.

I use so many and they can be cut to any size I need 



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curiousgeorge said:


> I use toilet flange bolts. The head is already oval, so no grinding needed.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

I haven't actually used any of the available T-slot bits, but I don't like the concept of the all-in-one-pass bits. They seem to remove way too much stock at one time, particularly in the confined space, for my taste. I'd rather do two passes, ala the Rockler bit design.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ralph

It's the same as a dovetail bit,, in fact you can use a dovetail bit in place of a tee-slot bit..in that way you can use counter sunk fasteners in the slot with a counter sunk lock washer..I put them in hardwood when the stock is thin..and you don't have the room for a standard tee-slot bolt or nut 


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Ralph Barker said:


> I haven't actually used any of the available T-slot bits, but I don't like the concept of the all-in-one-pass bits. They seem to remove way too much stock at one time, particularly in the confined space, for my taste. I'd rather do two passes, ala the Rockler bit design.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I use T-tracks. Wood compresses when you tighten the hold downs. After time you'll have to replace it.


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## blurry (Jan 14, 2009)

lots of good info here! thanks! I'm going to try the toggle bolts and toilet bolts and see what teh results are like.

thanks for the ideas - especially the dovetail - excellent thought!


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*See Pascal, you did get "takers"!*

See Pascal, *you did get "takers"!*

and to boot, I learned something as well!

Cordially,
Gerry


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## Opa (Aug 11, 2007)

IMHO the shelf bracket material is too light for this use. Most T-slot material meant for woodworking machines is 3/4 in. wide. The aluminum shelf brackets I have are quite a bit narrower. Look under Aluminum Extrusions on the web and you will find several suppliers. What is a toggle bolt? How about using a carriage bolt. the head is thin and could be easily ground or filed to fit any T-slot and the square portion of the shaft could help prevent rotation as well.


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## goodmokreno (Dec 26, 2009)

i'm having the same problem..... not sure what to use. just bought a keyhole slot cutter like previously posted and gonna give that a try, might have to make a couple of pass's hope it works


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

I can speek only to the MLCS T slot cutter, and it does all that I need for it to do.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Make sure you use a straight bit to make a dado before using the keyhole bit.
The keyhole bit will break if you try to make the entire slot with it.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Mike,
What sort of inferior bit are you using, I have been using a C.M.T. keyhole bit for many years and i alwas just plunge straight in.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

I went out to the workshopto get myt slot cutter to send a pic., can't find it, but here is a Trend t slot cutter that will do all the work you need, one of a variety on sale.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I use a straight cutter, then a t slot cutter. I make tapped alloy bars that fit into the slots. They give a larger contact area and do not compress the timber as do bolt heads. Then a choice of a bolt to suit the application, or a length of studding with an epoxied threaded knob.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

I have to agree with Mike, I too use a spiral cutter to cut a "dado" slot, then come back with a "T" slot cutter. The reason being, all that material is trapped, a 1/4" shanked bit won't last long, ie., breakage. With the excess material removed, the bit will do a better job and far less chance of it breaking on you.


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