# Door edge bit usage?



## Mark_M82 (May 18, 2014)

Hey Guys,
I'm making raised panel doors. I'm using a door edge router bit from MLCS (#7854). I'm running my door upside down against the fence. I'm having an issue when I get to the end of the door (image attached). Could someone please explain the proper routing technique to get the sides straight.

Thanks,
Mark


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Mark_M82 said:


> Hey Guys,
> I'm making raised panel doors. I'm using a door edge router bit from MLCS (#7854). I'm running my door upside down against the fence. I'm having an issue when I get to the end of the door (image attached). Could someone please explain the proper routing technique to get the sides straight.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mark


that's a fence in coplanar w/ the bearing issue...
the two halves of the tables fence are off set...
or...
you are pushing the stock into the bit more than you are pushing it against the fence...
or...
the edge of the stock where the bearing rides isn't straight and smooth...
or... 
the height of the bit isn't copastatic w/ the guiding edge of the stock...
or...
the halves of the fence are too far away from the bit allowing you to "pivot the stock while it's being cut....

close the gap... move the inside ends of the fence as close as you can get them to the cutter...
get the fence in coplanar with the bit's bearing... use a straight edge and lay it across the face of the fence and the outside edge of the bearing...
make everything in line/flush...
set the height.. make sure the material is flat and the bearing isn't leaving guiding edge the material...

if this the issue and changing the height doesn't fix it put a layer or two of making tape on the straight edge where the straight edge comes in contact w/ the bearing only...
set the fence to the straight edge and do your cutting w/o using the bearing...


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

Looks like Stick pretty well covered it. I use a home made zero clearance fence for my door bit.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

+ What they said.

I have had problems with the opening in the fence being too large for the bit being used. And some of the other stuff Stick pointed out.

I make darn sure the fence is aligned with the bearing on the cutter.
If necessary (as I did), attach a temporary fence that has a tight opening to give near zero clearance so your workpiece will pass the cutter without waiver.

I do whatever it takes to get-r-done. 

Here are a few pics.
Hope this helps.
Mike


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## Mark_M82 (May 18, 2014)

Guy, thanks for the replies!

I'm thinking it was a combination of things you mentioned. The bit I found was alittle tricky since it doesn't have a bearing guide. What would be the best method of setting proper height and aligning the fence in a situation like this?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Mark_M82 said:


> Guy, thanks for the replies!
> 
> I'm thinking it was a combination of things you mentioned. The bit I found was alittle tricky since it doesn't have a bearing guide. What would be the best method of setting proper height and aligning the fence in a situation like this?


that's a door pull bit...

that bit will require an offset fence...

use a long piece of scrap....
set the feed side fence pretty much where you think it should be...
back the out feed side fence out of the way....
run a test cut for say 6" on the scrap...
keep the scrap pushed up against the in feed fence during the cut...
cease cutting and remove the test cut piece....
shut down the router.....
put the test piece back in place where you stopped cutting...
hold the piece firmly in place w/ your feather board.....
bring up the out feed fence to the cut....
take your straight edge and set it to the two fences...
it should be tight to the in feed fence's and there will be a gap between the straight edge and the face of the out feed fence...
measure this gap at the router bit...
make this gap/measurement *exactly* the same at the far end og the out feed fence...
finish your test cut...
are you in your happiness??? good... 
No??? tweak things till you are... 

*note...*

when you make your cuts make sure you balance the hold to the fence pressures for both fences simultaneously as best as you can...
too much to one or the other will pivot the piece and you will experience unhappiness...

you will be making multiple cuts till you get where you want to be... 
every cut will require readjusting both fences each time....


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## Mark_M82 (May 18, 2014)

Stick,
Ahh.. Makes perfect sense now. Thanks so much!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I've used the same basic profile without using an offset fence. I take a dowel rod that will fit tight into the inside radius and set the fence using that. The fence has to be dead even with the shallowest part of the radius and it may take a trial or two to get it perfect. You are better off to have the fence set a little too far forward than a little too far back. A very tiny flat will sand out quickly when you dress the edge up. Too far back will leave a small dig like the one you've already experienced.


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

*Edge door bit usage.*



Mark_M82 said:


> Hey Guys,
> I'm making raised panel doors. I'm using a door edge router bit from MLCS (#7854). I'm running my door upside down against the fence. I'm having an issue when I get to the end of the door (image attached). Could someone please explain the proper routing technique to get the sides straight.
> 
> Thanks,
> Mark


I was having this same problem until I realized that I was the one making it bite into the stock at the end of the route. I solved this by applying pressure at the front of the stock all the way through the cut. Or by clamping my stock to a sled. Plus I added a 1/4 inch piece of plywood to my fence and made the space for the bit as small as possible.


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