# How to sand a groove?



## bradleyjere (May 1, 2006)

I have been trying to find an easier way to sand grooves! I have a core box bit that I use to create juice grooves in cutting boards. I currently am hand sanding these using steel wool and a rubber contour sanding grips. The problem is, it takes forever if I use actual sand paper. Steel wool works better but it also wears out quickly. Both methods take a lot of work to create a nice finish.

Are you guys aware of any sort of sanding bit that can be used in a dremel tool? The problem I have with most of these bits is that they are to harsh and want to remove a lot of wood or end up leaving burn marks. I am thinking along the lines of a polished finish.

Otherwise I would love to hear how other people sand in situations like this!


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

You could use a dowel the same diameter as your grooves. Wrap the sandpaper around the dowel. Then you can use it as a round sanding block. The contour sanding pads for these types of situations are the most popular way of doing this. I see you tried this method. Maybe take a second light pass with the router to clean it up so you don't have as much sanding.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2005237/Contour-Sanding-Pads.aspx


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Sanding Mop - YouTube
.: Stockroom Supply :. Sandpaper | Stockroom Supply

.: Stockroom Supply :. Sandpaper | Stockroom Supply

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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thanks BJ, nice to know.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Porter Cable makes an excellent profile sander with an optional dust collection hose kit.(It should be standard!) If you have a large amount to sand this is the way to go.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Mike

I think the profile sander has been discontinued


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Unless you're going to be making huge numbers of these, sandpaper on a dowel is the best way to go. I do stuff like this daily and that is the best method I know of. *OPG3*


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## bradleyjere (May 1, 2006)

Thanks for all the ideas guys!!! I will probably try the dowel solution first since it is not expensive and pretty simple. I might mess around with making a dowel that I can attach to my drill. Not sure if it will work but it's worth a try.

Also, I ended up coming across another solution similar to the sanding mops. Maybe a little more controlled that that though.

Professional Sand-O-Flex Contour Sander - Woodcraft.com

Thanks again!!!

Brad


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Be careful if using the sanding mops. You can easily round over the edges of your grooves ruining the profile.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Brad

Pull out some 3/8" dowel rod ,cut off a 6" long stick, take it to the band saw and cut a slot in it, about 2" long, slip the sand paper in the slot with a little masking tape to hold the paper in place and then chuck it up in your drill.." called a flap sander"

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bradleyjere said:


> Thanks for all the ideas guys!!! I will probably try the dowel solution first since it is not expensive and pretty simple. I might mess around with making a dowel that I can attach to my drill. Not sure if it will work but it's worth a try.
> 
> Also, I ended up coming across another solution similar to the sanding mops. Maybe a little more controlled that that though.
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

I use them all the time, But I use them in a VS power drill the norm on door panels,they have small strips not a big pads like most have ,it's hard to wipe out the profile.. the small ones work great on scroll saw work, made for the Dremel tools.

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jlord said:


> Be careful if using the sanding mops. You can easily round over the edges of your grooves ruining the profile.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bill, the PC 9444's are out there and can be found for great deals. I have seen them for as little as $30 complete. They work well for sanding on just about any profile and in corners. They use self adhesive sanding paper which is readily available and easy to replace. Mine sees a lot of use.


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## Capecarver (Dec 26, 2010)

I halved some dowels and glued them to boards, or "handles" of the same thickness to make them easier to use.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Mike said:


> Bill, the PC 9444's are out there and can be found for great deals. I have seen them for as little as $30 complete. They work well for sanding on just about any profile and in corners. They use self adhesive sanding paper which is readily available and easy to replace. Mine sees a lot of use.


Bought one when they first came out. I find it very hard to control and it has a bad habit of digging in at the ends. One of my uncles found it to do the same for him. Did I not persevere thru the learning curve, Mike? I mostly just use mine for a detail sander. They work great for that.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Chuck, I use mine strictly for detail sanding which would include corner spaces. When it comes to sanding dowels in projects the curved rubber form makes the job very quick and effortless. Most of my sanding is done with DA air sanders. They are quick and once you get the hang of them do a great job on most surfaces. Buying rolls of sanding disks works out a lot less expensive than buying packages at the big box stores. Since I never know what I will be working on I keep a nice assortment of grits on hand.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

It sounds to me, as has been mentioned, that a very light finishing cut with the router would produce a close to perfect finish with most close grained woods. Avoid using stringy woods which take longer to sand than the routing, it should be the other way round.


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## Bow Weevil (Nov 24, 2013)

I had the same issue with a sign made with a template. Used the eraser end of my pencil wrapped in sandpaper. Worked ok, but was not fast.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Welcome to the forum Andy. I keep a few different common diameters of wooden dowel and I glue sandpaper onto them. That takes care of the long runs of groove but the pencil is probably as good a solution as any for the corners.


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## JJuarez (Nov 8, 2013)

*Sand the Groves?*

Need suggestions on what to do with this table. My daughter asked me to refinish this table given to her by her grand-father. If you can see the detail work on this table it was hand carved. I worked on it a little bit with my pocket knife cleaning the dirt build up in the grooves. I have seen on here that some people suggest using a Sanding Mop or Dremal (sanding tips)? Or do I just try a stain remover?

Please advise. 
Thankds


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Varnish stripper, TSP, cabinet scrapers and lots of steel wool. 

Fine piece of work with a lot of details. With a pocket knife, I'd be afraid of going too deep and roughing up that detail. Dremel or other sanding and it's going to wash out and lose that detail. That would also open many opportunities to gouge and ruin the work.


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## stevieh (Mar 3, 2014)

Hi Bradleyjere,

You could use a metal file. Remove the handle, rub some chalk on the surface to stop it from clogging and off you go.
They come in different thicknesses and grades. It may make it a bit faster with less of the old elbow grease needed.

Regards
Steve


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## Peachy (Oct 28, 2018)

Is there such a thing as a sanding block that can sand into grooves in wall paneling? Thanks!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Peachy; what kind of groove are you talking about? A rectangular slot, or rounded profile 'juice channel' type?


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## mimac (Dec 13, 2009)

You could try this:
Contour Sanding Grips - Lee Valley Tools


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Contour sanding grips are great, but to get the most out of them, switch from sand paper to the 3M sanding medium. Very flexible, and you don't have to make a lot of passes to get smooth results. I use this stuff constantly on picture frames and it really works far better than paper--there is something very sepcial about the grit on this. I never have to sand down much finer than 220 with it, vs 320 with paper. Try it with a coutour grip. Really easy to hold in place. Here's a picture to help you find it.


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## Peachy (Oct 28, 2018)

There are 3 or more grooves between a larger concave groove between each panel. The paneling is in a den. I hope that makes sense.


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## Peachy (Oct 28, 2018)

*Picture uploaded*

I've uploaded a picture of the paneling. I'm sorry it isn't very clear!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Just out of curiosity, why do you need to sand the grooves? If it has something to do with the stain colour, sanding is going to make the problem worse! As it currently sits the colour is even everywhere; cleaning the surface in preparation for retaining/finishing should probably be restricted to a surface cleaning solution and maybe a quick going over with a fine synthetic sanding cloth...wrap it around a sponge. don't break through the current clear finish as you'll open up a can of worms you'll wish you'd never started.
If you were _painting _ that'd be a different story.
See my other comment re MOHAWK FINISHES. They make an excellent surface prep solution for stained finishes.


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