# My first box joints with the Incra Ultralite



## p3auul (Jan 3, 2012)

Well I didn't do too bad, considering. These were 1/4" joints and I made my own template with Coreldraw. This was super easy. Remembner, the software sets the accuracy, not the printer! you can use any printer you want.

The instructions say raise the router bit a little higher than the thickness of the wood. Don't do it. I did, and as you can see the pins end up higher than the wood surface and you would have to sand them off. The joints were probably a little too tight. I had to tap them together with the handle of a screwdriver. I would rather have them too tight though than too loose. This might be more of a problem when I do dovetails though.

I drove in to Atlanta, went into Rockler and picked up to of the Incra books. I bought one and took it it home. AGGGGGGGGGG!!! I bought the wrong book! I ment to buy the Master reference and bought instead I bought the "Projects and Techniques" book! 

Well I was buying the MR mainly for the templates but now that I find I can make my own, it can wait.

What do I think of the Ultralite? Well with only one set of joints under my belt, I'm harly and expert. But I like it. The set up was easy and everything went smoothly. 

When cutting the pieces for the box I learned one thing. I discovered the "Stop"! To make a box I knew that my measurements had to be exact. My miter saw has an inch scale and I just C-clamped a piece of wood at the 5" mark and Lo, they were all the same size!
Paul


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Congrats Paul!! After what you went through to get the Incra, you deserved a good session. I bought an older "Incra Pro" about a month ago, arrived on my first day home with the flu. Finally last night i had time to tinker some. Did some trivets (all 4 suggested designs) from the Projects/Techniques book. Came out pretty good. My stops were not the same distance from the center of the bit, so i got a little scallop on the two bordered versions--but SWMBO didn't notice that until i pointed it out!!

The actual routing for 4 trivets took under an hour, including bit changes. For a first attempt--it went pretty smoothly for me. I'd agree Paul, the Incra positioner will become an important member of my shop.


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

Happy to hear you are enjoying the incra Paul.The master set may still be of interet to you,it is amazing the variety of joints you can do.
AL


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## p3auul (Jan 3, 2012)

I love versatile tools! You can do so much more with them. I did a second set of boxjoints after I decreased the height of the router bit and they came out better. I'm going to make a third set tonite after adjusting the microadjuster and see if they will be a little looser. 

I've looked on craigslist for an incra positioner but none in my area I'm afraid. I ended up getting a good deal from Amazon so everything worked out well after all. This looks like a toy that will keep me happy for a long time to come!


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## p3auul (Jan 3, 2012)

Thanks Al. Yes the Master Ref is still in my future. First though, I have to master the common boxjoint then I will buy a dovetail bit and play with that a while. When I get where I can swiftly operate the positioner and am proficient at making the simple joints, I'll tackle the doubledouble. I'm already thinking of ways to use the UL in other ways than joints. I like to make signs also and the doubledouble dovetail on each end in contrasting woods would make a pretty sign.


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

Sweet
Enjoy


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Paul, the joints need to have the fingers slightly longer than the material so you can sand them smooth. By slightly I mean a few thousandths of an inch... not 1/8". Just enough that you can feel it.

Remember that you need to leave room for the glue in the joint. If you have to hit them with something to close the gaps you are too tight. Glue makes the wood swell and it is important to keep enough in the joint to make it strong.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Mike said:


> Paul, the joints need to have the fingers slightly longer than the material so you can sand them smooth. By slightly I mean a few thousandths of an inch... not 1/8". Just enough that you can feel it.
> 
> Remember that you need to leave room for the glue in the joint. If you have to hit them with something to close the gaps you are too tight. Glue makes the wood swell and it is important to keep enough in the joint to make it strong.


would now be a time to mention paring chisels and planes to trim those thousandths instead of sanding???


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> would now be a time to mention paring chisels and planes to trim those thousandths instead of sanding???


Would chisels across the end grain be a bit dangerous - tear out? I think I'd opt for sanding on a ROSS - Ridgid Oscillating Sanding Station.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

mgdesigns said:


> Would chisels across the end grain be a bit dangerous - tear out? I think I'd opt for sanding on a ROSS - Ridgid Oscillating Sanding Station.


a scary sharp or at least a very sharp chisel or plane does a remarkable job...


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> a scary sharp or at least a very sharp chisel or plane does a remarkable job...


Key word being trim and not hack... But sanding would work, just takes longer.

+1 with Stick.


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## p3auul (Jan 3, 2012)

Wood chisels and planes are for experienced woodworkers not for beginners like me, even though I have been a beginner for 62 years now( I started when i was eight!)



> Would chisels across the end grain be a bit dangerous - tear out? I think I'd opt for sanding on a ROSS - Ridgid Oscillating Sanding Station.


By ROSS do you mean those verticle drums that go up and down as they rotate? I have one of those but I dont think it would be wise on a flat surface. They are more intended for curves I think. I have a belt sander with a 120 belt. If the pins are only raise about a few thosandths of an inch I could sand them down on it without turning it on. The problem as I see it would be to adjust the router in thousandths of an inch. What I did on my second set of joints was to to place a 1/4 board next to the router bit and place another on top overhanging the bit. I then raised the bit up until it just contacted the overhanging board. Well I just had an idea! by plavcing a couple of pieces of paper between the two boards and raising the bit until I could just see light as the rising bit lifted the top board, I would have the few thousands of an inch.

All in all though, If the pins exactly math the thickness of the board, I see no need of sanding. Having to sand at all seems to me the recourse of someone who doesn't get it just right and HAS to sand to compensate.(No offense intended!)

It seems that with the development of the Incra jigs, we are entering an era of precision in woodworking that was formally only the domain of the Metal worker!


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

The Ridgid Oscillating Spindle Sander (Oscillating Edge/Belt Spindle Sander-EB4424 at The Home Depot) has both spindle and a belt attachment. In this case mgdesigns would be suggesting the use of the belt. Nice sander--i use mine a lot.

edit--i revisited HD web site, then the Ridgid site, neither shows any pictures other than with the belt attached. Seems like if you have a versatile product like that a company would want to illustrate it as such. Silly.


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## p3auul (Jan 3, 2012)

> The Ridgid Oscillating Spindle Sander (Oscillating Edge/Belt Spindle Sander-EB4424 at The Home Depot) has both spindle and a belt attachment. In this case mgdesigns would be suggesting the use of the belt. Nice sander--i use mine a lot.


Oh, I see. Sounds expensive though. My Oscillating spindle sander was $150 at HF. It's well built but rather limited in purpose. Anyway I did loosen up the joints a bit touched them to my running belt sander. The result was perfect. I've read various views here about tightness of the joint. Some say; "Loose enough for wood glue"; other's say "If it's tight, use CA Glue. Even others say if it's real tight and has to be tapped together, leave it alone..ie, no glue at all. Me, i think I'll go the middle road and use CA glue. 

One problem with the first method the problem that i see is that if it is loose enough to move you are are going to have to use cauls and a belt clamp to keep it square while the glue dries. If it's tight and I have to push it together, I can square it with a square and use the CA glue.


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