# Advice wanted on making thin molding - door stops



## merlysys (Aug 9, 2011)

Using leftover oak strips from table saw, I want to make thin moldings like door stops shown below.

When running small thin stock thru the router table are there accessories or jigs you could suggest? The leftover pieces are often under half inch thick, so some contraption must hold them.

Flat areas to the left I could cut with saw, Is there a router bit suitable for getting the right hand side? Doesn't have to be exactly as in the picture, just something similar will do.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Ogee Fillet Raised Panel Router Bits


MLCS_ogee_fillet_raised_panel_router_bits
number 8694
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...anel_router_bits1.html#rp12facequarter_anchor

Ogee Bits with 1/2" Bearing-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

A simple hold down device with two cam over clamps on top of some true flat stock will do the trick I think..to hold the stock for you..and to run it by the bit..

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merlysys said:


> Using leftover oak strips from table saw, I want to make thin moldings like door stops shown below.
> 
> When running small thin stock thru the router table are there accessories or jigs you could suggest? The leftover pieces are often under half inch thick, so some contraption must hold them.
> 
> Flat areas to the left I could cut with saw, Is there a router bit suitable for getting the right hand side? Doesn't have to be exactly as in the picture, just something similar will do.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Merlysys

As you may have gathered it can be kind of unsafe to try routing such small offcuts, howeber if they are stuck onto the edge of a larger piece of sofywood or MDF using hot melt glue or even spray contact adhesive then then can be processed with ease

Regards

Phil


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hi Merlysys.
Rip your stop to size then use a ogee, roman ogee, small round over, or what ever profile you like on the router table. A raised panel bit is too large for door stop. Your stop should be long pieces so you don't need a jig. Just use a push block to run it past the bit. If you want you could also mount a feather board to hold it against the fence. It's really a simple operation. Then after you machine your chosen profile cut to size then nail to jamb.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

*mmmmaking mouldings*

Here is a way to do it.

Most of us will not have and cannot justify the expense of a de-luxe router table and many holding down devices,in the absence of these I have used the method here for many years to make my own mouldings, just channel a strip of timber to the dimensions of your pr-moulded timber,set up your cutter, clamp on the grooved jig and simply push lengths of timber through the preformed tunnel, make sure your timber is a fairly tight fit and you will have no ripples and no danger of getting fingers in the way.
Picture 001.jpg (269.1 KB)


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Derek's method is excellent, I've done it this way for several milling projects on router table and table saw.

The "chute" does need to be fairly precise to achieve safety and good results but once setup you can run a bunch of trim with ease. 

Dust collection should be applied to relieve any potential for packing but since the operation is almost totally enclosed the removal of chips and dust is fairly efficient.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

*mouldings*



TomE said:


> Derek's method is excellent, I've done it this way for several milling projects on router table and table saw.
> 
> The "chute" does need to be fairly precise to achieve safety and good results but once setup you can run a bunch of trim with ease.
> 
> Dust collection should be applied to relieve any potential for packing but since the operation is almost totally enclosed the removal of chips and dust is fairly efficient.


Dust collection is provided for with this jig, a cutout to the rear of the jig, in the centre, allows extraction at scource of cut, and very efficient it is too.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Nice set-up, Derek! I used a set-up like that on the radial arm saw many years ago! Always worked well. Make sure that You cut a extra piece to run through the jig. Otherwise, You need to find something to move the the last piece through the set-up some how. When a piece is in there, You don't want to shut the router down!


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

There were quite a lot of remarks, mostly quite complimentary, when this was first entered in Feb 2009, and subsequently people have made this to use very successfully, of course you have to make a new tunnel when making larger or smaller diameter mouldings, but it doesn't take a lot of doing and costs only a piece of scrap timber.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Safety Small Parts Holder

MLCS Safety Accessories

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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

BJ, I find it interesting that the photo shows a safety device for holding small pieces of wood and yet they are not using a starting pin which prevents the wood from being pulled away from you. That could still happen with that holder. Go figure.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Mike said:


> BJ, I find it interesting that the photo shows a safety device for holding small pieces of wood and yet they are not using a starting pin which prevents the wood from being pulled away from you. That could still happen with that holder. Go figure.


Hi Mike - I picked up one of those things a few months ago. I think using a starting pin would be more hinderance than help with it. Just the way it's designed. I don't think I'd use it the way it's shown anyway. I just don't get a warm fuzzy that it's clamped in all that well. I use it occasionally with the fence for profiling small pieces but it's a thing to be very careful with. Glad I didn't pay full price for it, Rockler had it in their outlet store for under $10 once and I needed to hit $25 for free shipping.. 
I seem to accumulate some questionable stuff that way:wacko:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike 

Point noted. but I use it with the bit in and under the fence the norm I'm not a real big fan of the pin but I use the fence as safety pin and a starting pin, once the stock is up to the fence it's not going to jump when the bit starts do it's job...

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Mike said:


> BJ, I find it interesting that the photo shows a safety device for holding small pieces of wood and yet they are not using a starting pin which prevents the wood from being pulled away from you. That could still happen with that holder. Go figure.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

As BJ mentioned, a fence will do the same job as a starting pin. You do need something to help you tilt onto the bit which prevents it from grabbing and pulling the wood away. I prefer using a starting pin, BJ uses a fence... both ways are safe and work well.


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