# Installing T-track



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Guys I realize this should be a no brainer but I'm not sure if I'm going to proceed properly.
Today when I drilled holes in aluminum flat channel , I first took a centre punch and hammered in a mark to guide my 1/8" drill and drilled right threw .
I then took a larger bit and set the depth on the drill press and counter sunk a hole following the 1/8" hole so a number 6 screw would be counter sunk . 
Should I be using a regular counter sink bit that does this in one step or are they for wood only? 
I have to say it's a little tight inside the T-track . They do provide a very small line in the centre as a guide for the holes though


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

I've used the Snappy countersinks with no problem. But, it does sort of "polish" the edges of the t-track.


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

I had to do the same thing, but had a countersink that would fit inside the track. Screws generally have a 45 degree bevel on the underside, and most drill bits don't have a 45 degree tip.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Drill all the way through and bolt them in. Especially if you are using MDF.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> Drill all the way through and bolt them in. Especially if you are using MDF.


Brad this isn't the miter slot but T-track . Pretty much stuck with counter sinking screws .
I could use my combo track and do just that though 





4DThinker said:


> I had to do the same thing, but had a countersink that would fit inside the track. Screws generally have a 45 degree bevel on the underside, and most drill bits don't have a 45 degree tip.


4D I was wondering the same thing , drill bits are not the same angle . Thanks 





rcp612 said:


> I've used the Snappy countersinks with no problem. But, it does sort of "polish" the edges of the t-track.


Thanks Roger


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

I have seen it done on this forum. One of the CNC guys (makes a lot of signs) was constantly getting pull out and he bolted the T track as I described to the table to minimize this problem.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> I have seen it done on this forum. One of the CNC guys (makes a lot of signs) was constantly getting pull out and he bolted the T track as I described to the table to minimize this problem.


Ok , for some reason I was visualizing the inside of the channel being obscured by the bolt ? I hate screws and prefer machine screws if possible . In this application there won't be much stress though


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

Rick, have you done a test fit? I've found that in the tracks I've installed, a 1/4" 20 bolt head will pass over a button head screw in the track with no countersink.

Using a drill bit to make the countersink won't make a perfect machined fit to the screw, but it will help recess the screw head. After we discussed this previously I was able to find a proper countersink bit that would fit through the slot if nothing short of perfect will do for a shop jig.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ratbob said:


> Rick, have you done a test fit? I've found that in the tracks I've installed, a 1/4" 20 bolt head will pass over a button head screw in the track with no countersink.
> 
> Using a drill bit to make the countersink won't make a perfect machined fit to the screw, but it will help recess the screw head. After we discussed this previously I was able to find a proper countersink bit that would fit through the slot if nothing short of perfect will do for a shop jig.


No never thought of a test fit as I wasn't aware that bolts could be used. To bad they don't have thin bolt tops as that would help too . I've seen them but I think it was at work and the cabinet has some special 1/4" bolts and the heads were not as deep as normal


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

RainMan1 said:


> No never thought of a test fit as I wasn't aware that bolts could be used. To bad they don't have thin bolt tops as that would help too . I've seen them but I think it was at work and the cabinet has some special 1/4" bolts and the heads were not as deep as normal


Rick, some (if not most) T-tracks will accept a standard 1/4" 20 bolt head. The heads are almost twice as thick as T-bolts, but they fit fine, even over a button head screw securing the track. You can use T-bolts from the woodworking sites like Rockler etc. at about $1 each, or you can use 1/4 20 bolts (I recently bought 100 bolts on Amazon for about $15).

I posted a thread in May about a 'cool bit' that routes a T-slot that accepts a standard 1/4 20 bolt head (or nut), so for disposable fixtures you don't even need the track. Just route the slot and you're done!


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

Just a note... all t-track isn't the same profile and not all versions have the same "room" for screw heads that won't block the bolt head.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Can't you but counter sunk head machine screws?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

jw2170 said:


> Can't you but counter sunk head machine screws?


James I suspect that's the best option , and when I install it someday I'll try that route .
If you see my wall shelves thread I just tried installing that dual track extrusion


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## CMW^2 (Mar 22, 2018)

Ratbob said:


> Rick, have you done a test fit? I've found that in the tracks I've installed, a 1/4" 20 bolt head will pass over a button head screw in the track with no countersink.
> 
> Using a drill bit to make the countersink won't make a perfect machined fit to the screw, but it will help recess the screw head. After we discussed this previously I was able to find a proper countersink bit that would fit through the slot if nothing short of perfect will do for a shop jig.


What countersink bit did you use?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

CMW^2 said:


> What countersink bit did you use?


for aluminum and plastic...
nothing beats this style... nothing...
https://www.amazon.com/Countersink-...1523636314&sr=8-2&keywords=metal+countersinks


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Guys I realize this should be a no brainer but I'm not sure if I'm going to proceed properly.
> Today when I drilled holes in aluminum flat channel , I first took a centre punch and hammered in a mark to guide my 1/8" drill and drilled right threw .
> I then took a larger bit and set the depth on the drill press and counter sunk a hole following the 1/8" hole so a number 6 screw would be counter sunk .
> Should I be using a regular counter sink bit that does this in one step or are they for wood only?
> I have to say it's a little tight inside the T-track . They do provide a very small line in the centre as a guide for the holes though


Rick, I read you should drill your countersink first. I tried it and it cuts out the chatter and makes it look better. I have been doing this in wood and aluminum.


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

If you choose to just rout a T-track in your table, be sure to cut a 1/4" slot the same depth as the final T-track otherwise the slot cutter won't clear the chips well. I actually had the chips catch fire in my first T-slot cutting experiment.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> for aluminum and plastic...
> nothing beats this style... nothing...
> https://www.amazon.com/Countersink-...1523636314&sr=8-2&keywords=metal+countersinks


I find them to be the best with wood too. Most standard style countersinks with multiple teeth chatter and leave a rough surface. Those type don't.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> for aluminum and plastic...
> nothing beats this style... nothing...
> https://www.amazon.com/Countersink-...1523636314&sr=8-2&keywords=metal+countersinks


Wow talk about an old thread resurrected lol . Stick that’s a very interesting looking bit . 
Guys I believe I ended up using my drill press with a conventional drill bit ,as my counter sink bit was to wide to fit in the track.

Btw welcome to the forum CMW


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum CMW^2.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Wow talk about an old thread resurrected lol . Stick that’s a very interesting looking bit .
> Guys I believe I ended up using my drill press with a conventional drill bit ,as my counter sink bit was to wide to fit in the track.
> 
> Btw welcome to the forum CMW


That works in a pinch but the angle is wrong. Flat head wood screws have an 82* shoulder angle where they seat and the drill bit is probably around 135*. Those countersinks Stick linked to are available in 82* or 90* depending on where you buy them as I think machine screws have a 90* shoulder.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> That works in a pinch but the angle is wrong. Flat head wood screws have an 82* shoulder angle where they seat and the drill bit is probably around 135*. Those countersinks Stick linked to are available in 82* or 90* depending on where you buy them as I think machine screws have a 90* shoulder.


That’s interesting regarding the angle ,as I never would have known that


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> That’s interesting regarding the angle ,as I never would have known that


normal drill bit angles are 118 or 135°..
sheet metal screws are 90°...


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