# Template routing small pieces without breaking



## rogtek (Aug 31, 2016)

Hello everyone!

I am a hobbyist woodworker and relatively new to routing.
I am trying to make a wooden part at the router table but I hit the wall every time!

I try to template route a small part (6mm - 1/4") using a Bosch straight flush trim bit (6mm diameter). Every time I try to route the edge, the bit catches and breaks the edge... I tried supporting the edge from the opposite direction of routing with wooden jigs but no success. 

You can see the piece in the attached image (made with a jigsaw and a lot of sanding).

Any ideas or suggestions?


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

That ear produces short grain, a very vulnerable and weak section of the sample. If you take this cut in stages, say 1/16" - 3/32"/pass (in thickness), then the side load trying to break the part, is substantial reduced. You stand a better chance if you take the waste in 4 or 5 passes.
Templetizing this sample to prevent the failure, unless making 100's, will not be worth time.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

rogtek said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> I am a hobbyist woodworker and relatively new to routing.
> I am trying to make a wooden part at the router table but I hit the wall every time!
> ...


There will always be a weakness using wood, is there any reason why you can't use MDF, preferably Melamine coated like the piece shown in the photo.


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## rogtek (Aug 31, 2016)

Thanks for your replies but...



Quillman said:


> That ear produces short grain, a very vulnerable and weak section of the sample. If you take this cut in stages, say 1/16" - 3/32"/pass (in thickness), then the side load trying to break the part, is substantial reduced. You stand a better chance if you take the waste in 4 or 5 passes.
> Templetizing this sample to prevent the failure, unless making 100's, will not be worth time.


This sample is made from pine which is very soft and the grain isn't oriented correctly. The final piece will be made from beech which is much harder and the grain is oriented correctly but I still get the same results. The problem is that I can't make fine passes by hand because the part is very small. If you are off by a fraction it breaks. As for the templating, I plan to make about 50 of them, but the real problem is that I can't make them identical to each other without templating.

As for the material used, I want to use only solid wood. If I manage a way, besides beech I am planning to make a few from walnut.

I am going to try to make a pass so that the cutter is oriented TO the wood from the one side and then switch the template upside down so that I can route the other side. But unfortunately the problem remains at the top.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

rogtek said:


> Hello everyone!
> 
> I am a hobbyist woodworker and relatively new to routing.
> I am trying to make a wooden part at the router table but I hit the wall every time!
> ...


this can explain it better than I can...


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Don't understand: " The problem is that I can't make fine passes by hand because the part is very small."
**************************************************
What's the size of the work have to do with depth of cut?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Ok, a little different approach, since you're making 50 of them. 

Route the shape in a long piece, or if you need a different grain orientation, cut the same profile in several short pieces. You'll wind up with what looks like a piece of molding. Then cut off pieces with a narrow kerf blade for your final result. Make the length at least twice what you think you'll need so you have some backup. Support the back of the piece with a sacrificial fence so that the cutoff piece is supported as the saw goes through. Still, I'd expect a number of pieces just won't make it--it's wood! Making these one off is not practical.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

I have been templating "2" high alphabet letters I have been using a 1/4" upcut spiral bit. The material is oak. 1/4" thick. I must use the scroll saw to remove waste to within a 1/16" There are still portions of some letters that I must scroll saw to complete. I break a few but it can be done


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## rogtek (Aug 31, 2016)

Quillman said:


> Don't understand: " The problem is that I can't make fine passes by hand because the part is very small."
> **************************************************
> What's the size of the work have to do with depth of cut?


An image may show the problem better. As you can see I can't feed the piece in the router bit because it's very thin. It's a matter of luck if you can make contact with the bit in a way that it won't rip the edge. I also noticed that by cutting the piece so that the grain follows the right direction, doesn't help much. The speed of the router bit is no match for this piece of wood...


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I see you have made a router table and that is good. You might make the hole smaller so it will support that small piece better. Also try using some double stick tape and attach another board under you project for more support. Plywood would be good. A hair dryer or heat gun will make the tape easier to get off. Just throwing out a few suggestions.


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## rogtek (Aug 31, 2016)

Yes that's right hawkeye10. What you see in the images is just for better understanding of how small is the piece relatively to the router bit. Actually this is the template only, made from plywood and as you suggested I use double sided tape to hold the piece down.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

add a zero clearance throat plate to the taboe...


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Most, if not all, of my router work, is with templates, or masters as I call them. Usually do quite a bit larger work tho. Do a bit of small stuff on occasion. For something that small, I'd make a master that would go over the work piece, nail it in place (I do not use rubber cement or double stick tape), then carefully, and slowly, rout it out. It can work, but you will lose some.

However, in reality, if I were doing something like that, I believe I would close cut to the pattern outline with a scroll saw, then sand to the final shape.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

"An image may show the problem better. "
***********************************
Not a surprise. You need to use collars; they have no depth sensitivities.
(That is north and south, not east & west).


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## tacomamacxtech (Mar 31, 2009)

Reinforce the tip by drilling a hole and inserting a dowel in the 5mm end before routing the tip.


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## bridger (Nov 26, 2010)

Can you show the whole part?

If it's small enough I think I'd lay out a bunch of them on a board, then move your template around and cut from above 3/4 of the way through. Then slice them apart with a scroll saw, band saw or jigsaw and trim off the tiny remainder on the router table with a flush trim bit.


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