# Lock Miter Bit Question



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I am thinking about purchasing a lock miter bit for an upcoming project. I am going to build a changing station for my daughter to use with her new baby, which is due the week of Christmas. I was thinking about joining the face frame stiles to the cabinet sides using this bit.

If all goes as planned, I may be making the project using cherry. The workpieces may be as thin as 1/2 inch and up to 3/4 inch thick.

But, does it matter which one? There are several being made.

I have watched a few videos and checked a few prices.

I would appreciate your feedback if you have one of these cutters.

Thanks
Mike


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

There are several sizes for different thickness material. Are using one for looks or strength? Have you considered just going regular miter and splining the joint instead? Splines are easier and with a contrasting wood look really sharp.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

I wouldn't bother. Aside from possibly holding the doors, the face frame is non-structural. Glue would be sufficient and much, much easier to make look good. Add some pins if you like. 

Hint: I've never seen this on cabinet construction. maybe there's a reason why.

Also, the side and stile would have to be exactly the same thickness for this (or even a regular miter joint) to work right.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Food for thought. Thanks.

I will have all stock planed to the same thickness - 3/4 inch. I was thinking a mitered corner would make for a better looking finish - a more furniture grade look.

My daughter wants a changing station with an open shelf under the table, then two drawers below it. No problem. I was thinking about adding a little length and include a door on the right side for more stuff, like a pail. Before final assembly, I will drill shelf pin holes and include a couple of shelves for future use.

I am still in the design phase. I hope to get started in a week or so.

The spline sounds like a good idea, and less troublesome with set up. I could do that on the table saw.

Just thinking and typing...face frame for the front. Frame and panel construction for the sides. Both joined with a splined miter joint. I can do that.

Here are a couple of pics I found to consider. I will make it look good. We still have to meet up and finalize the design. She wants a Cherry finish so the actual wood used may be something else like birch. I can get 4/4 rough birch (and just about anything else) at the hard wood dealer. If I use birch, maple or red oak, I can get a couple of smaller pieces for the side panels at the local big box store and not have to buy a full sheet. In fact, I have a piece of 3/8 Baltic birch that just might yield both side panels. A rabbet here and there and it would be a done deal. 

I already have the concave pad to help with determine the size.

Thanks.
Keep the ideas coming.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

That first pic is a really nice design but would be on the low side if freestanding. The mite red joint does look more finished than a butt joint but is also stronger with over 40% more glue surface and with a spline, even a short one, is over 200% more.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

I am in the midst of making 12 small drawers for 3 jewelry chests. I am using a lock miter on 3/8 solid maple. 
I have a large lock miter bit and a small one. I'm using the small one on these drawers. I use Infinity's little set up device and it works well. 
I makes a great joint for this application. I would not recommend it for your application. Especially, in a one man shop. The case side would be a fairly difficult cut in that it would need to flat on the table and there can be no variation in the pressure exerted to hold it against the fence. 
Possibly, if you have a quite large router table and a long fence, you could do the job with a helper. 
The stile wouldn't pose a problem, though.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Gene Howe said:


> I am in the midst of making 12 small drawers for 3 jewelry chests. I am using a lock miter on 3/8 solid maple.
> I have a large lock miter bit and a small one. I'm using the small one on these drawers. I use Infinity's little set up device and it works well.
> I makes a great joint for this application. I would not recommend it for your application. Especially, in a one man shop. The case side would be a fairly difficult cut in that it would need to flat on the table and there can be no variation in the pressure exerted to hold it against the fence.
> Possibly, if you have a quite large router table and a long fence, you could do the job with a helper.
> The stile wouldn't pose a problem, though.


Thanks Gene. I appreciate your thoughts.
Mike


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Mike; wouldn't it be simpler to preassemble the face frames, before attaching to the carcass? It seems counter intuitive to install all the faceframe pieces independently(?).
Production cabinets are simply stapled from behind...in effect the same technique as the Kreg process. Not suggesting that you'd necessarily want to do it that way, but I've never seen a commercial faceframe separate from the mother ship.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Mike; wouldn't it be simpler to preassemble the face frames, before attaching to the carcass? It seems counter intuitive to install all the faceframe pieces independently(?).
> Production cabinets are simply stapled from behind...in effect the same technique as the Kreg process. Not suggesting that you'd necessarily want to do it that way, but I've never seen a commercial faceframe separate from the mother ship.


That is my plan. Preassemble the face frame with the two outside stile edges mitered the length of the stile. And do the same for the frame and panel construction side pieces.

I will have to do some practicing on some test pieces.
And who knows, the whole plan may change if my daughter wants something else. She has already said "It doesn't have to be fancy." And I said "yes it does". 

More later.
Hmmm... I forgot about the cheap Harbor Freight biscuit cutter that I haven't used in several years.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I have decided to scuttle the idea of miter joints. I will just do the ol' face frame to the cabinet thing I have been doing for a while.

Hope to get started soon.
Most certainly, there will be pics.

Thanks for everyone's input. I appreciate it.
Mike


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

I'll bet that's a load off your mind. 



MT Stringer said:


> I have decided to scuttle the idea of miter joints. I will just do the ol' face frame to the cabinet thing I have been doing for a while.
> 
> Hope to get started soon.
> Most certainly, there will be pics.
> ...


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Gene Howe said:


> I'll bet that's a load off your mind.


Yes sir. You are correct.


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