# Oak Park box jig and stock length



## horn man (Nov 3, 2009)

Hello all, first post (please be gentle).

I'm in the process of building a musical instrument speaker cabinet. It will be using 1/4" box joints. My question is this: if I use the Oak Park jig (or a clone) will there be any problem cutting the box joints with longer stock (25" in this case)? I'm using 1 x 12 #2 pine like Fender originally did. I assume I would have to make a larger push block, something like a large "L". Anyone with experience making box joints with large stock please feel free to advise.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Joe, welcome to the forum.

What you need for those box joints is BJ's deluxe push block. Read all about it in this thread:

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/3543-deluxe-push-block.html


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## horn man (Nov 3, 2009)

Thanks, that points me in the right direction!


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

It seems to me that making box joints on large pieces would be quite awkward using the oak park jig on the router table.
I've only just got back into doing a bit of woodwork and one of the things I'd like to make is tables that have solid ends box joined to the top rather than legs.
With that in mind I've come up with an idea for a jig which I think could do it, using the principal of the oak park jig but adapting it for use with a hand held router.
It's too hard to explain in words, so I'll keep posting till i can put up the Sketchup designs I've made.
Hopefully the experts here can help me refine the idea because I have never owned a jig, let alone made one.
It's not an easy task here in Croatia either as I can't source t-track guide bushings, pattern bits with different size bearings or spiral bits for that matter. I have however found some great draw slides which will allow my jig to have smooth x,y movement, with z movement provided by the plunge on the router.
Anyway, I'll post the pics as soon as i can and then you guys can tell me where I've gone wrong or right.

I figure the jig will also be able to do mortises and tenons.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi gav

It's true anything over 24" long can be awkward using the oak park jig but that's true for most box joint jigs,, the trick is to use a bigger foot print to keep the stock stable and safe to run by the bit..

the jig below is 24" wide with a standard foot print but you can make it as big as you want..the error comes from the need to put the slots in the ends of the stock,,,you can put box joints in a 48" long piece of lumber very easy if you have a tall bench or a tall ceiling ...


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gav said:


> It seems to me that making box joints on large pieces would be quite awkward using the oak park jig on the router table.
> I've only just got back into doing a bit of woodwork and one of the things I'd like to make is tables that have solid ends box joined to the top rather than legs.
> With that in mind I've come up with an idea for a jig which I think could do it, using the principal of the oak park jig but adapting it for use with a hand held router.
> It's too hard to explain in words, so I'll keep posting till i can put up the Sketchup designs I've made.
> ...


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I hope with my jig I'll be able to either clamp it to the bench and have the workpiece vertical or lay the workpiece horizontal on the bench and clamp the jig to it.
A few more posts and I'll put up the images I've got so far and attempt to explain the idea further.
Another great looking jig from you there Bob. Unfortunately as I mentioned the lack of bits with bearings here has lead me to come up with something that needs no templates, pattern bits or guide bushings.
I have no idea when I'll get to build it as I don't even have a workshop yet, another thing that's hard to come by here !! Who would have thought that renting a garage could be so difficult.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Interesting one I saw tonight
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also
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## horn man (Nov 3, 2009)

I ordered an Oak Park clone from Eagle America and it came in this week. I wrongly assumed it was made by Oak Park. I experimented with it today. The principal is the same, however it lacks mounting holes and but uses a couple of slots that work with one of EA's systems. It was easy enough to mount it on my home made table by drilling a couple of holes. It is PVC and, I believe, is not made of the same material as the Oak Park. This might be the subject of another area of the forum, but I ran into a problem cutting the off set block. The bit stalled and started burning the wood (yes I did use clamps and blocks and a setup bar and practiced before drilling and screwing to the table). I thought I had hit a knot (using a nice square 2 x 2 of soft pine) but after looking at the cut didn't see one. The MDF around the bit opening on my home made table was burned as well as a little bit of what looked like melted PVC on the box joint jig. Was this due to saw dust build up? I took it slowly. The bit is a 1/4" spiral upcut from EA. I was making a 3/4" high pass.


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

24" wide with 1/4" finger joints is a LOT of cutting. How do you feel about using a larger diameter bit, say 3/8" or even 1/2"? Doesn't help you all that much with balancing the stock on end but you would work across the stock a bit quicker.

And the cumulative error would be less, the fewer cut & shift cycles you make.


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## horn man (Nov 3, 2009)

The width of the stock is 11 1/4" (25" length). I did make a larger foot print push block ( 12" base) that stradles both sides of the jig guide.


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## horn man (Nov 3, 2009)

Of course, it all sounds good on paper right now. The test will be next weekend when wood meets cutter.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Here's a small tip, rip up some 1/2" thick stock (MDF) 20" wide and about 14" long, then clamp them to the top of the router table,then you will have a platform to support the project on both sides of the jig...then put in a dado slot in your push block to keep it running true to the guide..

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horn man said:


> The width of the stock is 11 1/4" (25" length). I did make a larger foot print push block ( 12" base) that stradles both sides of the jig guide.


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## horn man (Nov 3, 2009)

Thanks for the advice. I actually made the push block from two 1 x 4s topped with a 1 x 6 that staddles the guide rail. On top of that is a 2 x 4 short block to help support the vertical 1 x 12 in front. I did


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## horn man (Nov 3, 2009)

Sorry, technical mishap....I did rout the 1 x 12 to sit flush over the rail as well.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

> The bit is a 1/4" spiral upcut from EA. I was making a 3/4" high pass.


That sounds a bit deep. Is that correct?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Never take more than the thickness of the bit at a time. Otherwise, you may break it then, you'll have shrapnel flying around. Be safe, take shallower cuts.


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## horn man (Nov 3, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> Never take more than the thickness of the bit at a time. Otherwise, you may break it then, you'll have shrapnel flying around. Be safe, take shallower cuts.


Yikes, I didn't realize that. In the Oak Park demo, they seem to be flying through what appears to be 3/4 stock.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Bob & Rick were using soft wood too in the vids/dvds.  Even the larger bits, it's always wise to just 1/4" depth cuts.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

+1 on the maximum depth <= diameter of the bit. Remember that it's actually the lesser of the diameter of the bit and the diameter of the shank. The smallest diameter is the weakest point.

Please understand while this is accurate for the smaller bits, you need to back off even more for large bits. A 2" dia, 1/2" shank bit in a table, making a 1/2" deep dado, should be made in several passes.


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

horn man said:


> Hello all, first post (please be gentle).
> 
> I'm in the process of building a musical instrument speaker cabinet. It will be using 1/4" box joints. My question is this: if I use the Oak Park jig (or a clone) will there be any problem cutting the box joints with longer stock (25" in this case)? I'm using 1 x 12 #2 pine like Fender originally did. I assume I would have to make a larger push block, something like a large "L". Anyone with experience making box joints with large stock please feel free to advise.


Hi Joe I dont make many box joints but when I do I make a jig as shown from scrap MDF. it can be made in less than 30 minutes and if you wish to use it frequently, just fit a sacrificial strip where the bit runs into the table. The jig shown was made for a small box 70mm deep with 6 mm fingers, but could be scaled up to any size. In use clamp the piece (or in the photo shown, pieces which have been joined with double sided tape) to the vertical fence. Select the depth you want on the router. Use packing against the fence to obtain the first cut. Then in my case with a 6 mm cutter add 12mm spacers after each cut until you reach the end. For a small square box all 4 sides could be cut in one operation if you select your offset for 2 pieces and attach all pieces with tape:nhl_checking:


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