# Anyone converted a table saw to router table?



## OneStaple (Nov 3, 2009)

Hey,

First of all, I'm new to the forums but look forward to being a part of the community here as I develop my routing skills. I've been doing woodworking for a couple years now.

I'm currently working on building a new router table for myself. I made one in the past but wasn't satisfied with it. My previous table was an old section of laminated counter top. It ended up being slightly out of flat - enough to cause some problems on longer pieces.

So my latest venture has been to make a cast iron one on the cheap. Yes, I know I can go out and buy a very nice prefabricated one from any number of places, but I don't have the funds for it at the moment and I kind of like building/altering things.

I found an old Delta contractors table saw with a cast iron top on craigslist for $25. At this point, I've cleaned the rust off the top and torn the table saw components out. I'm about to start working on mounting the router to the table. My initial thought was to countersink screws through the table to hold the router, but I'm now also trying to figure out if there's a way to attach it without going through the top. Perhaps some sort of clamps from the bottom. I'll also probably have to grind away a small area of ribs under the cast iron to make room for the router, but I'm a bit uncertain about how difficult it will be to make sure the router is perfectly perpendicular to the surface afterwards. I will not include a lift or typical router plate (see below). The router (DW618) will be "permanently" attached.

I plan on using the hole where the table saw blade comes through as the hole for the router bit to come through. I was thinking of finding a non-metallic zero-clearance insert that fits the hole and then plunging through it, effectively making my own router plate (1/8" thick). The router will not be attached to the plate (although the plate will screw into the cast iron) and wood would travel across the short dimension of the opening.

I'm still coming up with ideas for a fence system, but that's a worry for another day. The miter slots could potentially work well as a guide for the fence though.

So, has anyone done something like this before? I have a rough idea of what I want to do, but would love to hear about or see other peoples projects and ideas. Any suggestions on this? Things you'd do/avoid? I've searched around on the internet and haven't seen many examples of this approach.

Thanks!
Tyler


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Tyler:

Go for it and report your progress. There are lots of guys that add routers to existing table saws but none, that I've heard of, replaced the saw mechanism with a router. How are you going to adjust depth, change bits etc.


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## OneStaple (Nov 3, 2009)

Yeah, it seems that not many people go the route that I'm taking. Should be an adventure. Plus, a contractor's table saw provides a read-made housing for the router. I rewired the front panel switch so I can use that to turn the router on and off.

I like the idea of having a separate table because I don't have all that much room, so I can move things around and store them more easily. I plan on positioning it to work as an outfeed table for my table saw as well (or I could put it next to the table saw for wide items too, I guess).

I'm still working out some details like height adjustment. At a minimum, I'd cut away some of the sheet metal siding on the contractor's table saw that I'm converting to allow access to the router. I'll probably see if there's a way that I could add hinges to lift up the table to provide access as well. I just don't have the money to buy a lift at the moment, don't want to have to do serious machining to the cast iron surface that might be necessary to accommodate a lift, and I've heard of plenty of guys that get by just fine without one (as I'm currently doing on my current router table). On my current table, I have to reach under the table for bit changes and height adjustment. Not ideal, but it works just fine for me (I'm young, which helps!).

Feel free to let me know of any suggestions that you might have!

Thanks,
Tyler


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tyler

I also like a challenge but I think you are going to open a big bag of snakes..you will need to put you hand under the top many times that will be a real PITA..not to say anything about putting in a new bit..

Good Luck

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OneStaple said:


> Yeah, it seems that not many people go the route that I'm taking. Should be an adventure. Plus, a contractor's table saw provides a read-made housing for the router. I rewired the front panel switch so I can use that to turn the router on and off.
> 
> I like the idea of having a separate table because I don't have all that much room, so I can move things around and store them more easily. I plan on positioning it to work as an outfeed table for my table saw as well (or I could put it next to the table saw for wide items too, I guess).
> 
> ...


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

OneStaple said:


> On my current table, I have to reach under the table for bit changes and height adjustment. Not ideal, but it...
> Tyler


Hi Tyler:

I'm going to suggest that you modify your existing table to the "Router Workshop/OakPark" philosophy. If you can, make your own base plate, just make it 11" square and your existing problems are resolved quite handily. Don't ruin a nice contractor's saw. Instead, sell it and buy more routers and some bits.

Were if more feasible, this forum is big enough that others would have done it.


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## OneStaple (Nov 3, 2009)

bobj3 - Yes, I understand the concern on only being able to access the router from under the table top. That is what I currently do, so I know what it involves. I have been fine with it so far, but understand that it could become a pain as I use the router table more. I have a DW618 and can do bit changes with it in place, although it requires me to bend down to get under the table to do so. I am taking this into consideration on the new table and will look further into alternate methods of mounting/accessing the router.

allthunbs - My current table has a self-made acrylic base plate that is about 12"x9"x1/2". It's more the table around it that is a problem, as it is not perfectly flat. Short pieces work fine, but longer pieces that must ride on the table as well have some deflection in the router bit path along the length. I've tried to correct this by attaching square metal stock to the underside, and that helped, but it has been a real pain to keep fighting. At this point, I think I need to either move to cast iron or build a more serious non-cast iron table from scratch. I like the idea of cast iron, so I thought I'd give this a shot.

Perhaps I just need to do some searching, but what is the "Router Workshop/OakPark" philosophy?

And don't worry about the table saw that I'm sacrificing. It's an older Delta saw but definitely not one of their higher end ones (model 34-670). It was only in moderate condition and it seems like the best part about it is just the cast iron top. It would take some decent work to get it back into reasonable condition as a table saw, and I'm not sure that it's worth it for this model.

It does scare/surprise me a little that others haven't done this before. It just seemed like an obvious possibility to at least attempt. I'm going to keep pushing forward on it and see if I can make it happen. At the very worst, I give up and go another route with building/buying a router table. At least I'll have fun giving it a shot.

Thanks,
Tyler


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tyler

I would say go for it , but If I was going to do it I would cut out a hole 14" x 18" with metal cutting blades and grind it clean and make a wood insert part to fit the hole and use the plate below to mount the router to so you could pop out the router out easy..
It makes it easy to switch out the bits and to adjust the router bit up or down from the top side of the table saw once it on it's side ..

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
OR ,but you will need to order two plates,one small hole and one big hole type..
Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue
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OneStaple said:


> bobj3 - Yes, I understand the concern on only being able to access the router from under the table top. That is what I currently do, so I know what it involves. I have been fine with it so far, but understand that it could become a pain as I use the router table more. I have a DW618 and can do bit changes with it in place, although it requires me to bend down to get under the table to do so. I am taking this into consideration on the new table and will look further into alternate methods of mounting/accessing the router.
> 
> allthunbs - My current table has a self-made acrylic base plate that is about 12"x9"x1/2". It's more the table around it that is a problem, as it is not perfectly flat. Short pieces work fine, but longer pieces that must ride on the table as well have some deflection in the router bit path along the length. I've tried to correct this by attaching square metal stock to the underside, and that helped, but it has been a real pain to keep fighting. At this point, I think I need to either move to cast iron or build a more serious non-cast iron table from scratch. I like the idea of cast iron, so I thought I'd give this a shot.
> 
> ...


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## OneStaple (Nov 3, 2009)

I had thought about doing something similar - cutting a section out of the cast iron top so that I could add a typical router plate. My hesitation was that cutting such a large section out of the cast iron (and the reinforcing ribbing underneath) might cause the top to go out of flat. Thoughts on that? Am I being overly paranoid?

I'll have to check when I get home, but there's also not tons of real estate between the two miter slots. A 14" cutout might be stretching the limits. I'll check to see what kind of room I have.

Thanks,
Tyler


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

You can use the OP plate it's only 11" x 11", that will help but because it cast iron it's tuft, I would use the saw slot for the center point, you will need to take out a rib or two but you can't get around that..you can always cut down the HF plate but you want the snap in rings so you can use all the router bits sizes...I would not bolt the router right to the table saw top...you will in time know why 

I think I would cut the HF plate to 9" x 9",,on some DeWalts you can remove the handles so it can drop in easy..or turn it so it lines up on the corners of the plate so it can drop in..

=======


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OneStaple said:


> I had thought about doing something similar - cutting a section out of the cast iron top so that I could add a typical router plate. My hesitation was that cutting such a large section out of the cast iron (and the reinforcing ribbing underneath) might cause the top to go out of flat. Thoughts on that? Am I being overly paranoid?
> 
> I'll have to check when I get home, but there's also not tons of real estate between the two miter slots. A 14" cutout might be stretching the limits. I'll check to see what kind of room I have.
> 
> ...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

We're talking a cast iron table top. Unless you have a mill yourself, I suggest, take the plate and top into a machine shop. Let them mill the top. I'm not saying this can't be done. You will need to take heed at the metal thickness for which your plate will sit. You will find that this varies greatly throughout the table top 

I wish you luck in this adventure. Please post pics when you get it completed.


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## OneStaple (Nov 3, 2009)

I measured the distance between the miter slots and it's only 9", so I'd probably have to cut whatever plate I used down to about 8". The area around the miter slots seem to be the weakest on the underside of the cast iron table.

The handles on the router can be removed, which would leave me with a 6"-7" diameter router base, if I remember correctly. This will be a dedicated table router/base, so I'm not worried about taking and leaving the handles off. I have another identical router for non-table use.

I took some pictures of it and how the router would fit underneath, but then I realized that I can't post pictures or links until I hit ten posts. I think I'm about half way there.

Hamlin - I don't have my own mill, and I'm guessing that having it machined in a shop is going to bump the price to a point where it may not be worth it. My goal is to do this for relatively cheap without sacrificing too much in the way of quality. I know that that's asking a lot. You definitely bring up a good point though. The top is somewhere around 1/4" thick in the thinner areas. If I were to cut out a chunk of the top, I was thinking of cutting straight through (and not creating a ledge). Then I'd add additional pieces that would go under the plate to support it.

bobj3 - If I understand you correctly, the main reason that you encourage the use of a plate is that it can be lifted out for bit changes and height adjustments. If I were to mount the router directly to the cast iron and then rig up the cast iron so that one side was hinged and it could be propped up (like the hood of a car), do you think this would work just as well? If so, it'd save me the trouble of cutting a chunk out of the cast iron top. I've located zero clearance inserts for the table saw, so I could get a few of those and plunge through them to accommodate different sized router bits.

Thanks for your help! It's always nice to have people to bounce ideas off of, especially those with experience.

Thanks,
Tyler


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tyler
That may be the best way to go 
Harry has his router setup that way almost..he put some gas shocks on it to help with the lift..cast is very hvy. plus it's alot essayer to cut a round hole..

Heavyweight and Precision Router Table

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OneStaple said:


> I measured the distance between the miter slots and it's only 9", so I'd probably have to cut whatever plate I used down to about 8". The area around the miter slots seem to be the weakest on the underside of the cast iron table.
> 
> The handles on the router can be removed, which would leave me with a 6"-7" diameter router base, if I remember correctly. This will be a dedicated table router/base, so I'm not worried about taking and leaving the handles off. I have another identical router for non-table use.
> 
> ...


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## anotherBob (Oct 28, 2009)

Hi OneStaple, just my lil 2¢... after seeing the cast iron top that bobj3 linked to, I'd think hard if not long, on just going that route (pardon the pun...). It was made to do exactly what you want... but it isn't your original (kinda cool btw) idea. If you can afford the time... putting the contractor saw idea on ice or the back burner might well put you ahead in the game... but, ya, darnit... it is a cool idea! Good luck.


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## anaugi (Nov 5, 2009)

if you want to save the effort of conversion i have a 2nd craftsman shper you might be interested in


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## OneStaple (Nov 3, 2009)

Yeah, that cast iron is certainly heavy. I've been moving it around my garage from time to time.

Half the fun of this router table is just the process of making it and having it be my own "original" table. The ones from MLCS certainly look nice though.

So, assuming at this point that I'm not going to add a plate and attach the router to it, does anyone have any slick ideas for attaching the router to the cast iron? It looks like many real cast iron router tables (including the MLCS ones) use a t-track system under the table with clamps. Obviously, I don't have this luxury. The simplest approach would be to just drill through the table, and that'd work just fine (countersunk in, of course). But I'd love it if there were no bolts showing on top of the table. I'll have to ponder this a bit. Any thoughts?

Bob McDonald - a used shaper table would certainly work, but shipping would be a killer unless you're just down the road.

It would appear that everyone here (or at least those responding to this thread) are named Bob. Weird.

Thanks,
Tyler


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tyler

Now you want to get tricky 

They make arc welding rod for cast iron and with some Z iron you can make a tracks that the router could side in and with some Allen set screws you could lock it in place..without any holes showing on the top side...


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OneStaple said:


> Yeah, that cast iron is certainly heavy. I've been moving it around my garage from time to time.
> 
> Half the fun of this router table is just the process of making it and having it be my own "original" table. The ones from MLCS certainly look nice though.
> 
> ...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

BJ.. isn't welding cast iron a bit tricky, like aluminum?

Bob (aka BigJimAK, but going with the flow!) :dirol:


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Aluminum is actually quite easy to weld, just need the right welding rod. CI however, is a real PITA to weld. You most definitely need the correct welding rod plus, the CI should be preheated to prevent cracks from forming.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

With the new rods they have now days it's not to bad ,welding a trans. is very tricky because it's like a peanut shell ...and must be pre heated the norm but not always ,, 

====



BigJimAK said:


> BJ.. isn't welding cast iron a bit tricky, like aluminum?
> 
> Bob (aka BigJimAK, but going with the flow!) :dirol:


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## OneStaple (Nov 3, 2009)

Ohhh, I like the idea! But I've also always heard that CI is very difficult to weld. I'm not up to date on the welding rods that are available. I've done a little bit of welding in the past and have access to my grandpa's flux core welder. You mentioned arc welding rods, but they don't happen to make ones that might work on cast iron for flux core, do they?

Also, could you clarify what you mean by "z iron". Is that just the shape, like two angle irons back-to-back?

What about using something like JB Weld to attach some t-tracks to the underside, similar to "real" cast iron router tables that I've seen? I could then put four clamps in the angle irons to hold the router down (or up, I guess). That approach might be a little easier than trying to weld the cast iron.

Thanks,
Tyler


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tyler

" grandpa's flux core welder " not that I know about but maybe, the welding rods burn very hot and heat up a wide path..because of the flux on the rods..

Z iron,,you got it 

" JB Weld " I don't think I would trust it..one drop and you will have a nice door stop, I don't think it would be safe.. I know it holds well but to hang a router from it well ...

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9102

http://allwelding.proboards.com/index.cgi?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

You will still need to preheat the CI before attempting to weld the CI. If not, you'll end up with cracks in the CI. JB Weld, works great... for certain things. I'm with Bj with this one. I wouldn't recommend using it to mount a router with. 

Cast Iron is tricky and very difficult to work with. You'd be better off "brazing", (using a brass rod to weld), any pieces than trying to weld with a stick or wire welder.


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

You guys scare me with all this welding, I'd hate to see all the work you are going through go down the tubes welding on this ( it can be done If you have experience in welding). This is where I would take the top to a machine shop and have them machine the under side where the router will go. This will make it flat and assure the router will be square with the top. This is where you need to be as accurate as possible if you are wanting to mount the router to the top without a plate. Almost all cast iron I've worked with is very easy to machine in a mill. Not so easy to weld. I just say this from experience; 40 years as a machinist.


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## OneStaple (Nov 3, 2009)

Yeah, I really like the idea of attaching the router without any screws showing through on the top, but I'm beginning to think that trying to weld it might be more effort (or possibly risk) than it's worth. A few screw holes in the top isn't a horrible thing.

RStaron - Do you have a guess as to what I'd be looking at paying for having the bottom (just where the router mounts) machined flat and three holes put through the top for bolts?

Thanks,
Tyler


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Sorry I don't, I never had a need to price out jobs as I work in a factory maintaining their machinery and building new machinery. Prices may be different in VA than IL any way. I wouldn't think it would be too much but I would think it would be well worth it. I would try to find a small shop that is not too busy, they might give a better price and be more willing to do it for you. This post has me thinking of doing the same as I have an old Sears Table saw not being used. I bought it to use until I replaced the motor on my Shopsmith. I may take a look at it tomorrow. Good luck on the top.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Tyler:



OneStaple said:


> RStaron - Do you have a guess as to what I'd be looking at paying for having the bottom (just where the router mounts) machined flat and three holes put through the top for bolts?


Further to Ron's comments, in Southern Ontario I had need to use a machine shop to thread ski rods. I went around to 3 or 4 before I found one that would do the work. One huge shop, all kinds of machinery etc. all of it bone idle, wanted $75 to start the job and costs could go up from there. I think there was a reason he had no work.

I eventually found a guy in the next town, a one-man operation, who thrived on "interesting stuff" from householders needing "inventions and fixes" realized. It still cost me $30 but at that point I was just happy to get it done. Check around machine shops for retired guys with their own equipment. Shop around - a lot depends on how hungry the machinists are.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

RStaron said:


> You guys scare me with all this welding, I'd hate to see all the work you are going through go down the tubes welding on this ( it can be done If you have experience in welding). This is where I would take the top to a machine shop and have them machine the under side where the router will go. This will make it flat and assure the router will be square with the top. This is where you need to be as accurate as possible if you are wanting to mount the router to the top without a plate. Almost all cast iron I've worked with is very easy to machine in a mill. Not so easy to weld. I just say this from experience; 40 years as a machinist.


 
Hi Ron,

This is what I suggested from the beginning. We all realize cost is a factor but, to get it right and still be safe... isn't the cost worth it?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tyler

Like I said ,,A big bag of snakes 

=========


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

The way things have been going on this forum the last month or so safety should be top priority an building anything, not only building it but using it after it's built. To me the cost would be worth it. Everything else would be pretty easy to do yourself.


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## OneStaple (Nov 3, 2009)

I found the names of some machine shops that are local to me and I plan on giving them a call on Monday (that is, if I can swing doing so during business hours, as I'll be on a business trip). We'll see what types of prices are available. Hopefully I can find something reasonable, since not all that much metal needs to be removed.

I've almost finished attaching a hinge system so you can lift the front of the cast iron top to access the router. Hopefully I'll be able to finish that tomorrow and put some pictures up.

Tyler


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Tyler... I look forward to seeing your pictures.


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## OneStaple (Nov 3, 2009)

I've been away on business for a couple days, so the table got to sit. I actually got pretty far with the hinge system for raising the top on Sunday, but just when I had it all together, I realized that I'd mounted it backwards. :angry: And the top isn't symmetrical, so in turning it around, it didn't come out quite as nice. But it's still functional.

Basically, instead of having the top bolt directly to the base, I added some pieces of maple so that I could attach a hinge. The front then has a piece of wood that supports the cast iron top at an angle, similar to that little rod that holds up the hood of your car.

I've called a couple machining places nearby and it sounds like prices are in the $75 range so far. These are shops that I'm just finding through internet searches for machine shops, so I'm probably not going to come across small shops that are willing to do it for less that way. Not sure how I'd find those or who I'd ask.

We have a mill at work, but it's only big enough to reach about 3/4 of the area that I'd need flattened, unfortunately.

Tyler


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hey Tyler... that is a pretty interesting idea you have going


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hey Tyler:

my parents had a piano that weighted a ton. Over the years, the whole house settled toward the spot where the piano sat. Eventually, they had to move it just to stop the settling. By the looks of that router table, I hope you have a block and tackle to move it and a hydraulic jack to nudge it into place. Once it gets planted, I suspect that the whole house will begin to list to that side. :jester:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tyler

Now I see why you wanted to use it for a router table,,GOOD JOB on the rework 

The work is done for you, now just make a wood insert to hold the router in place,to fit in the saw hole..and as far as you can to the front of the saw cabinet 

I think I would still use the HF plate, just cut it down to fit the hole with a rabbit edge and it that way you have the snap in inserts to make it essayer to switch the bits out with a off set wrench and use it from the side of the cabinet not the front..so you can use the slots for you router work..

Go for it, will make a great router table ..

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OneStaple said:


> I've been away on business for a couple days, so the table got to sit. I actually got pretty far with the hinge system for raising the top on Sunday, but just when I had it all together, I realized that I'd mounted it backwards. :angry: And the top isn't symmetrical, so in turning it around, it didn't come out quite as nice. But it's still functional.
> 
> Basically, instead of having the top bolt directly to the base, I added some pieces of maple so that I could attach a hinge. The front then has a piece of wood that supports the cast iron top at an angle, similar to that little rod that holds up the hood of your car.
> 
> ...


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Looks good so far, Tyler. You could try what Bobj3 suggested before you get the underside machined and see if that works for you.


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## smartin (Jul 19, 2009)

i am making my own router table from a 1 inch thick by 24 inch by 36 inch aluminium plate
just the raw material was $300.oo i work for a machine tool dealer so i have acces to c.n.c. milling and lathes, when i am done i will be able to adjucst my fence @ one thousands of an inch. i think that if you put the effort the time and of course the money sky is the limit


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## OneStaple (Nov 3, 2009)

It's been a few weeks, but I had a chance to work on the table more today and wanted to post an update with pics.

I found out that there's a small machine shop at work with a small mill. It's only big enough to reach about 7.5" from the edge of my CI table, but that was enough. I basically just needed to take off one ridge so the router would sit parallel to the top (you can see the removed ridge on the left side of the first picture).

So I removed that ridge and added two holes through the top to attach to the router. Given the size of the opening, there was no way to use more than two of the screw holes on the router, which I'm not thrilled about. I may add some other bracing.

From rigging up my Wixey angle gauge to get a reading on the angle that a router bit comes out of the hole relative to the top of the CI, I believe that a router bit will be about 0.3 degrees away from perpendicular. I can add some tape to the underside to shim this and make it perfectly perpendicular.

I looked further into some of those router plates to see if I could trim them to fit the opening. I like the idea of the removable center rings, but the opening is only 3.5" wide and most of the plates with removable rings have the main hole bigger than that, which wouldn't work. I think I'll probably go with my first idea and get a couple zero clearance inserts that fit this model table saw and then just plunge through them. Switching inserts will only take about 30 seconds (just unscrew two screws and then screw them back in with the new plate).

With the router adjusted to max height, the collet sits about 1/8" below the top surface of the cast iron.

Oh, and I don't know if I mentioned this before, but I had wired the table saw's front switch so I can plug the router directly into it and turn the router on and off using that switch. Much easier and safer than reaching inside somehow. The last picture shows the connection.

I also need to start thinking about a good way to make a fence, preferably with a micro-adjustment mechanism. Maybe I'll use the miter slots. Maybe I'll incorporate some Magjigs (although those are expensive). We'll see.

Feel free to leave feedback/suggestions/comments/questions.

Thanks,
Tyler

*Underside with freshly milled area just to the left of the opening.*









*View from the top with the router attached.*









*View from the underside with the router attached.*









*Wiring inside the table saw to use the saw's switch.*


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

You don't intend on having just those 2 screws hold the router do you?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Great progress, Tyler.. I can't tell for sure how thick your inserts will need to be but if they're pretty thick (my Uni uses 1/2" stock), you might want to pick up some corian scraps and route them to size (buying one to use as a template and for initial work).

My local WW club had a silent auction as a fund raiser and someone donated some scraps. I picked up 2 pieces, each large enough for 2 inserts, for $10. Corian is heavy but I've been told is router-machinable. I haven't yet had time to research it for certain, but when stumbling upon the deal, I grabbed 'em.

Perhaps others here will post on the routability of corian and any special requirements to do so. It'll aid me and give you some insight on a possible approach.

How about it guys, can you route (and plane) corian if you take controlled, shallow cuts?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tyler

Looooooking good, I think the two screws will do the job but I would suggest you pull the little screws out and put some real Allen flat heads in place,,3/8-16 x 1 1/4" with lock nuts,you have the meat in the router base to take them on..the Allen flat heads are a bit smaller in the head diam than the normal flat head screws...

=======


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Good job Tyler, I think you just got yourself a great router table.

Jim, Routing corian should be pretty easy after all it is just another type of plastic. The pros use bits made just for it but I seen people sell cutting boards made out of it at craft shows. I would think thought that it makes a pretty good mess when it's routed. I have never used it but at one time was going to make some cutting boards out of it. I used to see a lot of it for sale on E-Bay but I haven't checked lately.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Damn fine Job thus far Tyler !


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

RStaron said:


> Good job Tyler, I think you just got yourself a great router table.
> 
> Jim, Routing corian should be pretty easy after all it is just another type of plastic. The pros use bits made just for it but I seen people sell cutting boards made out of it at craft shows. I would think thought that it makes a pretty good mess when it's routed. I have never used it but at one time was going to make some cutting boards out of it. I used to see a lot of it for sale on E-Bay but I haven't checked lately.


Thanks, Ron.. I'd assumed it'd be messy. As long as it doesn't turn into a giant ball of cold hot-glue.. <g> Definitely a case for a really sharp bit and don't underfeed!


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Jim, a variable speed router might also be needed ?


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## eccentrictinkerer (Dec 24, 2007)

BigJimAK said:


> Perhaps others here will post on the routability of corian and any special requirements to do so. It'll aid me and give you some insight on a possible approach.
> 
> How about it guys, can you route (and plane) corian if you take controlled, shallow cuts?


Routing Corian is a piece of cake. Cuts like butter. Only one downside, the Corian dust is very fine and sticks (static charge) to everything!

I haven't tried planing, yet. Corian can't purchased from distributors unless you are in the cabinet trade, so I use Corian that I've salvaged from remodel jobs. I've seen Corian pieces at my local Re-Use center and also the Habitat for Humanity Re-Source store.

Corian is great for making jigs, too.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

RStaron said:


> Jim, a variable speed router might also be needed ?


I'm with you there, Ron.. Starting with the first router I purchased I've learned that I really *use* the VS feature, usually running the router at something less than full-speed. 

When I first joined here I heard a number of the senior routologists around here talk about how you can tell the right router speed by the sound of the router and the feel of the wood as the cut progresses. I got a true appreciation of this on my recent / in-progress "trivet" project, where I was working on 6 trivets at a time with a total of 96 cuts at the same cut depth with each of 4 sizes of bit, all done back-to-back. 

I offer my thanks to you guys for helping this ol' engineer get beyond the mechanics of routing and start getting into the feel of the work.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

You can pick one up at HF for $19.99.
Been using mine for a year now with no hick ups.


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## BCR (Mar 30, 2009)

eccentrictinkerer said:


> Corian can't purchased from distributors unless you are in the cabinet trade


I guess it depends on your area. I can go pick up any size\color I want, and i don't do cabinetry at all. I use to paint yachts\boats. Try picking the size you need at a wholesale boating shop or plastics shop. 

But yes it routs\mills very easy, quite similar to lexan. and yes use a sharp bit,with light passes if possible.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

BCR said:


> I guess it depends on your area. I can go pick up any size\color I want, and i don't do cabinetry at all. I use to paint yachts\boats. Try picking the size you need at a wholesale boating shop or plastics shop.
> 
> But yes it routs\mills very easy, quite similar to lexan. and yes use a sharp bit,with light passes if possible.


Ever try to thickness plane it?


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## BCR (Mar 30, 2009)

Sorry, I can't say that I have. But I would not have any reservations on doing so in my DW735, granted in very light passes like nothing bigger than a 64th to start, and plan on one heck of a mess eve connected to DC. But if you are just trying to mill out a deep gouge, i would just sand it out. That is the biggest plus of corian, the ability to sand and buff, well also the weight compared to granite especially on a yacht.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

BCR said:


> Sorry, I can't say that I have. But I would not have any reservations on doing so in my DW735, granted in very light passes like nothing bigger than a 64th to start, and plan on one heck of a mess eve connected to DC. But if you are just trying to mill out a deep gouge, i would just sand it out. That is the biggest plus of corian, the ability to sand and buff, well also the weight compared to granite especially on a yacht.


how does it handle heat -- hot pots -- knife cuts -- general kitchen abuse?

I have a kitchen to build and I'm looking for an inexpensive counter method. I was thinking of using oil sealed stacked spruce.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

We're getting off-topic from the original OP. Please start another thread or get back on the right topic.


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## Tramo (Oct 27, 2009)

I like that idea, only thing I would have done differently would have been to get the router to one end of the insert hole, and use all three screws. I'm just not real easy with only two screws on a running router - especially fastened to an uneven mounting surface... would certainly get some hardened bolts. ( imagine a runaway router spinning at 22,000 RPM dropping out of the bottom of that cabinet - OUCH )

With T-blots in the miter slots I could see fastening a fence - provided the slots are T-slots, not just slots. Even a simple angle aluminum with a cutout for the bit - as I used on my first home-made router table.

Is the project done ?? How does it work ?? Where's the pics of the final product.


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## alfromelkhorn (Aug 18, 2011)

*I had an old table saw, a new Triton Router, and the Table Mounting Plate. An engineer friend came over and we removed the motor and adjusting rods/gears from under the Table Saw. Then we marked off the space we needed to mount the Router and Plate taking full advantage of one of the Miter Gauge slots, Fence, and Off-Feed Extension. 

The Table Plate is held into position by some angle iron fastened to the bottom of the table out of the way of the router, and the Table Plate is screwed into that. By removing the face plate on the table saw, I have access to the adjustments on the router.

Now all I have to do is add some maple boards to the working side of the fence to accommodate my bits and keep the original metal fence away from the bit. I will also install some stops so the fence cannot move too far into the bit.

I hope this was helpful.
Al ([email protected])*


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## BCR (Mar 30, 2009)

Now seeing one, I can see why some would find an attraction to this way. 

I see most may do this from seeing the cost of a used saw (free~50.00), in comparison to the iron extension sold by the likes of mlcs, bench dog, etc. for nearly 400.00 (scrap, iron with a hole in it, shouldn't be even a 1/10 of that price, maybe shipping but not cost 400.00 plus shipping.)

It is why I looked this thread up many years ago, due to I considered buying one of those extensions. But would never have worked for me, due to I have always liked my right side 72" rails and extension between rails. As well in such a small shop, I can add no more to left.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

A LOT of opinions have been expressed on this particular topic over the years.
A search would likely bring up a number of other threads on this subject.


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## Alphonse53 (12 mo ago)

OneStaple said:


> bobj3 - Yes, I understand the concern on only being able to access the router from under the table top. That is what I currently do, so I know what it involves. I have been fine with it so far, but understand that it could become a pain as I use the router table more. I have a DW618 and can do bit changes with it in place, although it requires me to bend down to get under the table to do so. I am taking this into consideration on the new table and will look further into alternate methods of mounting/accessing the router.
> 
> allthunbs - My current table has a self-made acrylic base plate that is about 12"x9"x1/2". It's more the table around it that is a problem, as it is not perfectly flat. Short pieces work fine, but longer pieces that must ride on the table as well have some deflection in the router bit path along the length. I've tried to correct this by attaching square metal stock to the underside, and that helped, but it has been a real pain to keep fighting. At this point, I think I need to either move to cast iron or build a more serious non-cast iron table from scratch. I like the idea of cast iron, so I thought I'd give this a shot.
> 
> ...


I don't know which Delta saw you converted, but I managed to connect two 34-600's edge to edge for a dual spindle. The real trick was to get the underside of the table flat and getting the mounting holes just right. A quality drill press fitted with a cup grinding wheel and a few machinist layout tools would be the majority of the extras you would need. I posted mine on this forum a couple months ago.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

lol , just noticed I fell for it again . Thread is ancient


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hahahaha Rick.
If your shop was insulated, you would not suffer from heat stroke........LOL.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

jw2170 said:


> Hahahaha Rick.
> If your shop was insulated, you would not suffer from heat stroke........LOL.


True James , true lol


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