# Building me a Katie Jig



## rdubose (May 7, 2009)

Figured I would try to make me a Katie Jig like Bob J has made. Looks like it wouldn't be to terribly hard. Ordered a couple of pieces of extruded Alum. 

Are there any plans out there? I plan on ordering a couple of fingers to duplicate. Also I saw Bob had attached 2 peices of 2"x1" Extruded Alum together but not sure what he has holding them together. If you could Pipe in Bob I would appreciate it! Also how do you keep the fingers parallel?

Thanks

Ray


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ray

You now get the fingers from Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood
You can also get the fingers for box joints and blind dovetail joints that you use on the base jig in the same way

" together " you can get them from the ebay seller but you can make your own very easy with a hex nut and just round the nut over on one end of it so it just slides into the slot easy.

" fingers parallel " the fac.made ones has two small dowel pins to keep them from turning but they are not needed..they use a Alllen flat head screw that's screwed into a square nut in the alum. channel that will hold them true once you have more than one in place.

Just a note, tee nuts work well also,just grind most of the flange off the tee nut..  so it looks like a small square....so it can lock the tee nut in place.. ,a 1/4-20 ,,,.03.cent item.. 


hope this helps Ray, it's a fun jig to make 

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/9519-fence.html
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/9502-template-pattern-tracing.html
http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/9620-katie-jig-backer-board.html

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rdubose said:


> Figured I would try to make me a Katie Jig like Bob J has made. Looks like it wouldn't be to terribly hard. Ordered a couple of pieces of extruded Alum.
> 
> Are there any plans out there? I plan on ordering a couple of fingers to duplicate. Also I saw Bob had attached 2 peices of 2"x1" Extruded Alum together but not sure what he has holding them together. If you could Pipe in Bob I would appreciate it! Also how do you keep the fingers parallel?
> 
> ...


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## rdubose (May 7, 2009)

Thanks for your help, I haven't received my parts yet but did have a question about how you attack the extruded materials together. Specifically you have 2 pieces of 1x2 that you have the 1inch surfaces connected to create basically a 1x4 that you attach the facing to. How are you connecting the 1 inch sides together?



bobj3 said:


> HI Ray
> 
> You now get the fingers from
> You can also get the fingers for box joints and blind dovetail joints that you use on the base jig in the same way
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ray

You're Welcome,they say a picture is worth a 1000 words,,,put in a 1/4" pin ( press fit ) drill the hole on both ends (edges) and tap the parts together ,takes 2 or 3 pins.. you will also see the flat tee nuts and the hex nut ( that has a little rounded end ) plus the type of bits you will need. 


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rdubose said:


> Thanks for your help, I haven't received my parts yet but did have a question about how you attack the extruded materials together. Specifically you have 2 pieces of 1x2 that you have the 1inch surfaces connected to create basically a 1x4 that you attach the facing to. How are you connecting the 1 inch sides together?


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## rdubose (May 7, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ray
> 
> You're Welcome,they say a picture is worth a 1000 words,,,put in a 1/4" pin ( press fit ) drill the hole on both ends (edges) and tap the parts together ,takes 2 or 3 pins.. you will also see the flat tee nuts and the hex nut ( that has a little rounded end ) plus the type of bits you will need.
> 
> ...


#1 What size drill did you drill the parts to be able to press fit them with a 1/4" pin? Haven't ever press fit 2 metal pieces.

#2 What router Bit Set are you using? I grabbed the Dovetail and Straight bit from summerfield but that doesn't look like the set you have there.

Ray


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ray

I don't want to tell you to use the wrong one,it's comes down to the size of 1/4" pin you are going to use..if you use a bolt and cut off the threads it will be under by a big deal...just use your letter drill set or number drill set.the hole size needs to be right on the button with the pin size..

Note,,,, to drill it made your backup boards 1st.clamp up the alum,with the 2 backup boards,then drill it from the bottom side,,,,but not all the way then tap the pin in ,,b/4 you unclamp it...then tap the pin in with a punch so the tee nuts will slide in nice a free..

Bits,,,,, I'm cheap old sob so I'm always looking for a good deal on bits,see below,Sommerfled ,,are great bits but the bottom line is the bottom line..

5pc Top Bearing Dovetail Router Bit Set For Keller Jig - eBay (item 130305640010 end time May-17-09 10:23:29 PDT)

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rdubose said:


> #1 What size drill did you drill the parts to be able to press fit them with a 1/4" pin? Haven't ever press fit 2 metal pieces.
> 
> #2 What router Bit Set are you using? I grabbed the Dovetail and Straight bit from summerfield but that doesn't look like the set you have there.
> 
> Ray


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

The easiest way to put them together is to drill 2 thru holes on the top extrusion and drill and tap the bottom extrusion. In other words, if you are using 1/4-20 screws, drill the top extrusion with 9/32" holes and then drill the bottom holes with a #7 (.201) hole and tap it. You might also want to use flat head machine screws and countersink the thru holes so you can slide whatever in the top t-slots.

Instead of buying tapping fluid, I just use transmission fluid and it works great.

Also, those brass toilet bowl screws you can buy at the big box stores are cheaper than the t-slot bolts sold at Rockler and also fits Rocklers t-slot extrusions. (I have some 30mm 80/20 aluminum extrusion and they fit perfectly in the slots, just didn't know what to build with them)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Paulo

Thanks for the tip BUT no bolts can be used in the center,tee nuts most be used and they must side in all the way and free,with no marks/block in the tracks bottom and top of the rails.

Ray 
You will see some snapshots of the sommerfeld bits below the dark yellow ones and some others,it's best to use the longer ones in the snapshots you need it all in the table...
The bolts it the backup boards are carr.bolts with nuts in the pocket and a spring to push the clamp down boards out when you want to take out the stock...after the dovetails are in place..I will note this ,,,it's the best jig for dovetails I have ,it works right every time...no fuss no muss..

Note Ray

If you use the longer bits you don't need to use the 
Router Collet Extension, you need all you can get from the router bits.3/8" longer is a big deal..
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_collet.html

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Paulo
" (I have some 30mm 80/20 aluminum extrusion and they fit perfectly in the slots, just didn't know what to build with them)"

How about a great fence they work great for that  with some of the extrusion and some poly. then you can have 250.oo fence for peanuts..

==

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Noob said:


> The easiest way to put them together is to drill 2 thru holes on the top extrusion and drill and tap the bottom extrusion. In other words, if you are using 1/4-20 screws, drill the top extrusion with 9/32" holes and then drill the bottom holes with a #7 (.201) hole and tap it. You might also want to use flat head machine screws and countersink the thru holes so you can slide whatever in the top t-slots.
> 
> Instead of buying tapping fluid, I just use transmission fluid and it works great.
> 
> Also, those brass toilet bowl screws you can buy at the big box stores are cheaper than the t-slot bolts sold at Rockler and also fits Rocklers t-slot extrusions. (I have some 30mm 80/20 aluminum extrusion and they fit perfectly in the slots, just didn't know what to build with them)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Bump

For Ray

=


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## rdubose (May 7, 2009)

Thanks for all the help so far.. I've received my Fingers and my router bits.. staring at the UPS delivery online waiting for the other parts to get here. I'm pretty excited about it. Told a wood working friend of mine and he said to build mine and he's building a leigh style from plans in a Wood working magazine and we'll get together and see who's is easiest at the end. I'm guessing mine.. it looks like it's pretty easy to set up and use.

Thanks for all your help so far.. I'm sure I'll have more questions while I'm building it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Your Welcome Ray

I'm sure you will win,,I tried to make the leigh and it was some great firewood in the end..

I forgot to say besure to make some spacers out of the same stock you used for the fingers, that's the neat thing abut the Katie can move the fingers around and make your own pattern so to say...also below you will see a easy way to make your tee nuts,I used some old chain link fence rods because it was on hand and it's plated..

Just drill and tap them out and then just cut them off and you will have a hand full in about 15 mins,or so..


============


rdubose said:


> Thanks for all the help so far.. I've received my Fingers and my router bits.. staring at the UPS delivery online waiting for the other parts to get here. I'm pretty excited about it. Told a wood working friend of mine and he said to build mine and he's building a leigh style from plans in a Wood working magazine and we'll get together and see who's is easiest at the end. I'm guessing mine.. it looks like it's pretty easy to set up and use.
> 
> Thanks for all your help so far.. I'm sure I'll have more questions while I'm building it.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Hi Bob,
that's a great tip on the home made sliding t-nuts!

do you know a good source for spiral taps?

Thanks!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi greg

Thanks,,the chain link fence bar works great,it's made with the rounded edges, it saves time and it's cheap..

The taps I get from a machine shop supply house (Rickeys Ind.) in town and most do carrier them, spiral taps, they work great and come up to 1/2" the norm..I use the DeWalt drill most of the time for them..it's takes less power to tap most holes..

http://www.brubakertool.com/

I also use the cheap chop off saw,makes a quick and easy to cut off small stuff.. I just hate to use a hack saw..LOL
http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-1-2-Angle-Grinder-Stand/G8183

====



gregW said:


> Hi Bob,
> that's a great tip on the home made sliding t-nuts!
> 
> do you know a good source for spiral taps?
> ...


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## rdubose (May 7, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Your Welcome Ray
> 
> I'm sure you will win,,I tried to make the leigh and it was some great firewood in the end..
> 
> ...


So were are you getting your Aluminum Bar Stock to make the spacers? and were are you getting your flat head machine screws with a allen head on them?


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> I used some old chain link fence rods because it was on hand and it's plated.


Now, I have heard everything.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ray

ALUM.stock from the scrap yard, very cheap..sold by the lb. the norm.

Allen flat head screws from ACE hardware when I only need a hand full,about 30 cents.each..1/4-20 x 1/2"

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rdubose said:


> So were are you getting your Aluminum Bar Stock to make the spacers? and were are you getting your flat head machine screws with a allen head on them?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

hahahahahahaha take a walk to your back yard or your neighbors corner fence post and look at the bar that holds the chain link fence to the post and you should see two of them ..I had one or two in the rack so I just pulled a short one out.  who's cheap  I'm a cheap old SOB,,,,, LOL...


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AxlMyk said:


> Now, I have heard everything.


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## rdubose (May 7, 2009)

Still getting in my parts for this. This is my first Dovetail jig. Can this be used with 14degree bits or only 7degree bits? Just curious as I saw both beside each other and thought the 14degree looked nice as well.

Ray


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ray

The bits for the jig should all be 7 to 8 deg., the 14 and the 12 deg. are to short the norm..( the cutter blades the norm) this jig is setup for the though type dovetail,,that's stronger than the blind dovetail type and make it so much essayer to cut the box parts...that's to say if the box needs to go in a 12" x 18" holes that's the size you need to cut parts unlike the blind dovetail that you need to do a little math on ...


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rdubose said:


> Still getting in my parts for this. This is my first Dovetail jig. Can this be used with 14degree bits or only 7degree bits? Just curious as I saw both beside each other and thought the 14degree looked nice as well.
> 
> Ray


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## kaybee (Aug 11, 2009)

Where did you guys get the aluminum extrusions that you are using for the core of the jig?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

8020 T Slot Aluminum Extrusion 15 S 1545 x 14.5 Long - eBay (item 220399886308 end time Aug-18-09 12:10:33 PDT)

eBay Store - 80 20 8020 Aluminum T-Slot T Slot extrusion 8020 garage sale:

eBay Store: Search results for 80 20 8020 Aluminum T-Slot T Slot extrusion 8020 garage sale.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/9519-fence.html

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kaybee said:


> Where did you guys get the aluminum extrusions that you are using for the core of the jig?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> 8020 T Slot Aluminum Extrusion 15 S 1545 x 14.5 Long - eBay (item 220399886308 end time Aug-18-09 12:10:33 PDT)
> 
> eBay Store - 80 20 8020 Aluminum T-Slot T Slot extrusion 8020 garage sale:
> 
> ...


Peter wishes they were a bit closer ! Lots of interesting stuff on there !


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Pete

hahahahahahaha they are as close as your mail box 
small world now days 

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istracpsboss said:


> Peter wishes they were a bit closer ! Lots of interesting stuff on there !


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Pete
> 
> hahahahahahaha they are as close as your mail box
> small world now days
> ...


True, but by the time they got here they'd have tripled in price! When I was in London I could ferret in the bins in engineering works near Heathrow airport for this stuff but I've found nothing comparable here. It's all very agricultural - vineyards and olive groves. Now if you want a still, that's another matter !

BTW, I've been reading through the rest of this thread and hadn't worked out how to make the tuning forks other than paying Katies 19 bucks each for them. Clearly someone is knocking them out in wood.


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## kaybee (Aug 11, 2009)

What are the dimensions of the walnut stock you made your fingers from? How are they holding up with use?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Kaybee

You will need to buy one for a template,once you have that the rest is easy  just drill the hole and bolt it down to your blank stock and router it out with a trim bit..
I think the next one I make will be made with maple stock (1/2" thick )

You can get the finger template from, it's must have item but you just need one only.. 
New Katie Jig w/Bars-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Catalog-15-Page-3/products/459/
===========


kaybee said:


> What are the dimensions of the walnut stock you made your fingers from? How are they holding up with use?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

OK ! I'm in with a chance. I got 4x ALU Profil Aluprofil 45x90 Aluminium 650 mm on eBay (end time 02-Nov-09 18:00:22 GMT)
This looks beefier than yours Bob. Does that raise any issues, please?

I still need to get some specimen tuning forks. How practical would it be to make an initial template for each type/size from scratch rather than importing them? I've got the manual and there are undimensioned drawings in there. If I had the dimensions could I scale them and cut them with my coping saw?

Cheers

Peter


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

I guess I'd need to know how thick the jig should be overall, as it will relate to the tuning fork overall length. I'm hoping that I could use reduced thickness cheeks to match the thickness. Could someone please let me know how thick it should be overall?

Cheers

Peter


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Peter,

Correct me if I'm wrong but, if you got a "template" fork, wouldn't that be the same thickness? I'm guessing that it should or would be between 3/8" to 1/2" thick.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Not sure what you mean Ken. The original jig core uses Ally extrusions,which I think are only about an inch thick, faced up with what looks like MDF. As my extrusions seem similar, but are 45mm thick, I can presumably do either without the facings or with much thinner ones. The original fork length will be important as it will determine the projection beyond the jig core. That is why I'm interested in the total thickness, including the facings, of the original jig.

Cheers

Peter


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## Ernie_421 (Feb 15, 2009)

I hate to be ignorant, but what's a Katie Jig?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

" coping saw? " forget that, the 1st.ones I made was on the band saw and the scroll saw and they became fire wood.. they need to be dead on and the router bit is the only way to do that, you could spend days and days making them but why when the router can do it in about a hour or two.. you need to start with some 1/2" thick stock, once you have that you need to cut off some blanks, stick the fork/finger to the blank and drill a hole in it the same as the fork once you have that done put in a Allen flat head screw to hold the two parts as one part ,then go to the router table and let the trim bit do the work for you..you will make one or two that will be fire wood or key chain 

The real key is the one fork that you need for the master template, but do make extra ones some day you may want a make a longer jig i.e. 30" or longer, then all you need is just a longer alum.base part..

But do make them 1/2" /12mm thick, not any thing thicker or thinner the bearing must ride on them , plus you must use the longer router bits, you will need all you can get when the router bit is sticking out of the router table 
Plus make some stops blocks that hang off the fence ( L type ) to keep the bit out of the alum.base part when you use the jig..

Your ALUM. base part should work well " looks beefier " but that's good.


=========





istracpsboss said:


> OK ! I'm in with a chance. I got 4x ALU Profil Aluprofil 45x90 Aluminium 650 mm on eBay (end time 02-Nov-09 18:00:22 GMT)
> This looks beefier than yours Bob. Does that raise any issues, please?
> 
> I still need to get some specimen tuning forks. How practical would it be to make an initial template for each type/size from scratch rather than importing them? I've got the manual and there are undimensioned drawings in there. If I had the dimensions could I scale them and cut them with my coping saw?
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ernie
The Katie jig. the best dovetail jig made 

Catalog #15 Page 3-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

===


Ernie_421 said:


> I hate to be ignorant, but what's a Katie Jig?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

OK Thanks for that. I've actually got four lengths of it coming, each over two foot long, so some for a fence on the drill stand and two for future projects. It was a good deal for 33 Euros. It's only about 12 Bucks a length.

However, I still need to know the thickness, including the facings either side, of the original design. If I don't get it right, the forks won't project far enough out, will they?



bobj3 said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> " coping saw? " forget that, the 1st.ones I made was on the band saw and the scroll saw and they became fire wood.. they need to be dead on and the router bit is the only way to do that, you could spend days and days making them but why when the router can do it in about a hour or two.. you need to start with some 1/2" thick stock, once you have that you need to cut off some blanks, stick the fork/finger to the blank and drill a hole in it the same as the fork once you have that done put in a Allen flat head screw to hold the two parts as one part ,then go to the router table and let the trim bit do the work for you..you will make one or two that will be fire wood or key chain
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Right on  , the Katie and the ones I made are 1" thick with 3/4" thick backer boards,,if yours is thicker you can make the backer boards a little be thinner but not less than 3/8" thick, the bit will cut into the backer board about 1/4" deep on each pass.. 

But I will say all the work is done in the pocket of each finger, so the fingers don't need to be to long..get it 

=========



istracpsboss said:


> OK Thanks for that. I've actually got four lengths of it coming, each over two foot long, so some for a fence on the drill stand and two for future projects. It was a good deal for 33 Euros. It's only about 12 Bucks a length.
> 
> However, I still need to know the thickness, including the facings either side, of the original design. If I don't get it right, the forks won't project far enough out, will they?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Bob

Thanks. That should just about work. I hadn't realised that the backing boards were partly sacrificial. 
1" + 3/4" + 3/4" = 2 1/2" or around 64mm.
47mm + two at 10mm will be close.

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Here's a shot of the stop blocks and a little view of the backer board with a small cut in it from the bit..

========



istracpsboss said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> Thanks. That should just about work. I hadn't realised that the backing boards were partly sacrificial.
> 1" + 3/4" + 3/4" = 2 1/2" or around 64mm.
> ...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

BJ,

Katiejog.com advertises a "Blanket Chest" model designed for wider setups. It sounds like its a two-in-one setup. Being "Mr. Jigs" I doubt you'd have bought one (instead making one) but I thought I'd ask if you (or anyone else) might have experience with it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

That's one of the neat things about the Katie jig, you can make a "Blanket Chest" jig just by adding the spacers (wood or Alum.ones ) see some of them in the link below..  most are made of walnut ( 2 1/2"" wide) to fit right in place with the fingers..

Router Forums - View Single Post - Building me a Katie Jig

I have the base part to make a blanker chest jig up to 46" wide/long
The parts (2 ea.) are just screw up as one long bar channel.

Hardware plus more
http://shop.ebay.com/8020inc/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p4340

=======



BigJimAK said:


> BJ,
> 
> Katiejog.com advertises a "Blanket Chest" model designed for wider setups. It sounds like its a two-in-one setup. Being "Mr. Jigs" I doubt you'd have bought one (instead making one) but I thought I'd ask if you (or anyone else) might have experience with it.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Seems pretty straightforward to me, BJ...


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## BCR (Mar 30, 2009)

Ernie_421 said:


> I hate to be ignorant, but what's a Katie Jig?


Although, some linked to where you get the jig, I figured for anyone else coming into this thread, I will just post the lowdown for them. 

easiest is about.com review.
The Bottom Line
The Katie Jig is another in a line of dovetail jigs that clamp onto the board being cut (rather than clamping the jig to a bench top and inserting the board into the jig). However, the Katie Jig has a few features that really separate it from other jigs of this style. It has variable spaced pins, has some handy edge stops, does not require the woodworker to install any backer boards (they come installed) and can be used on either a router table (with optional handles) or with a handheld router. While the documentation is in need of some improvement, the tool is very well-built and produces beautiful dovetails.

Pros
Can be used with handheld router or with a router table (using optional router table handles)Edge Stops are a nice touchCan clamp both pin and tail board on jig at same time

Cons
The jig will only cut through dovetails (or box joints with optional box joint fingers)Documentation could use an update - a bit vague

Description
The optional Dovetail Toaster is a clamping system to hold the jig to the stock, and is an excellent addition.Although the jig is relatively narrow, two jigs can be clamped together for a full 26-1/4" cutting width.Can clamp both the tail board & pin board to the jig simultaneously, but different bits are required for each side.Edge stops for both sides of the stock helps make duplicating cuts a simple procedure.Fingers and spacers are easily adjusted with an Allen wrench (included).Owner's Manual has a few images but could use better focus. It took some trial and error to get the hang of the jig.

hope that helps..
actually it is one of the 2 i plan to get, the other is the wood rat.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Brian

True the manual could be better but like the say a video is worth 10,000 words,you can get a video ,,to see how to setup it quick and easy and how to use it with a video from sommerfled tools..

Cabinetmaking Made Easy-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood
Router Tables Made Easy-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

I will say it only takes 5 mins.or less to set it up and you are putting in great dovetails right out of the box it can do it all
*Half Blind Dovetails or Through type dovetails,plus the box joints*, the jig can do all 3 types ,if you get the extra plate template/fingers and the spec. bit it takes from Sommerfeld.

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Catalog-15-Page-3/products/459/

=======


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> Here's a shot of the stop blocks and a little view of the backer board with a small cut in it from the bit..
> 
> ========


Thanks Bob. BTW, why is the clamping bar reversed in the third shot? The sandpaper is away from the job.

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

hahahahahahaha ,I knew you would see that hahahahaha, sometimes I get in a rush taking the shots,, I pull the bars off the other jig and just pop them on this one.. hahahahaha but you are right the sand paper go's on the inside of the bar,,, hahahaha..

=======



istracpsboss said:


> Thanks Bob. BTW, why is the clamping bar reversed in the third shot? The sandpaper is away from the job.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Peter,

Please post pics when you get yours done. I've seen pics of one that Bj did.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> Peter,
> 
> Please post pics when you get yours done. I've seen pics of one that Bj did.


Hi Ken

I've still got to get the master fingers from the States. It'll be a while before the guy bringing them comes over and my ally profiles are brought by another friend from the Netherlands, so it's a spring project, but one I'm looking forward to.

Happy Christmas !

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Tips & Tricks - Katie Jig Tool System
"Half-Blind" Look Joints - Tips & Tricks - Katie Jig Tool System
KatieJig System - "It makes great dovetails and box joints." - Page 9

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