# Exterior House Door Raised Panel Jig



## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

" For kitchen doors and furniture, a raised panel cutter for a router will cost in the region of £30 + and only produce a moulding 25 – 40mm on to the panel.
To produce what I wanted would need a spindle moulder (wood shaper) and tooling." 

I need to make chunky, substantial raised panels for interior, exterior house doors. I found this panel jig that seems to be able to do the job. I emailed the guy who posted the information, asking about his design.

How to Make Raised Panels for a Door without expensive router cutters

I asked him, 

" Hi,
I'd like to have a go at making this jig. Could you give me any help like angle of triangle and various dimensions?
Thanks,
Peter. "

He replied,

" Hi Peter,
Sorry I can't help much with the specifics as it all depends on the angles you want and the sizes of the panels. I think the best way is just to knock something up and refine it if you need too. It doesn't have to pretty, just fairly stable.
Good luck with it. "

Any help on putting a version of this jig together much appreciated ? Perhaps devising a method of changing the angle, a pivot point, a circular slot with locking knob. A method of clamping to router table?

Cheers.


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## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

*I'll try to answer some of those questions...*



Gaia said:


> " For kitchen doors and furniture, a raised panel cutter for a router will cost in the region of £30 + and only produce a moulding 25 – 40mm on to the panel.
> To produce what I wanted would need a spindle moulder (wood shaper) and tooling."
> 
> I need to make chunky, substantial raised panels for interior, exterior house doors. I found this panel jig that seems to be able to do the job. I emailed the guy who posted the information, asking about his design.
> ...


Changing the angle ought to be straightforward enough. make the jig with a flat piece of MDF or plywood (as the original jig builder suggested) as a 'cutting deck' if I may call it that, but instead of fixing the edge at the pointy end, hinge it with two lengths of piano hinge, leaving a gap for the router cutter obviously. I would guess his jig's fixed angle was about 20 deg - you are not likely to be making a panel too far off that, maybe plus/minus 7 degrees or so? All you need do then is devise a solid clamping system to lock the cutting deck at your preferred angle - nuts and bolts, knobs, whatever you have.
I don't understand why you'd want to clamp it to the router table, since it will be pushing past the cutter. How you'll guide it consistently past the cutter will depend totally on your table and what sort of grooves, tracks or channels are in it - whatever is there will determine how you control the jig. Maybe...the original builder is just relying on the fence to keep it straight, notice that he has quite a long fence, and nothing seems to be running in the channels on the router table.

Here's his pic again for reference:










Have a go at it and refine as you learn - often I find the Mk II version of my jigs is when things begin to come right. Be careful not to have the router bit sticking up to an unsafe extent, or you'll end up with a custom bit to rout around corners like this one I invented:










:laugh:

John


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

JCJCJC said:


> Changing the angle ought to be straightforward enough. make the jig with a flat piece of MDF or plywood (as the original jig builder suggested) as a 'cutting deck' if I may call it that, but instead of fixing the edge at the pointy end, hinge it with two lengths of piano hinge, leaving a gap for the router cutter obviously. I would guess his jig's fixed angle was about 20 deg - you are not likely to be making a panel too far off that, maybe plus/minus 7 degrees or so? All you need do then is devise a solid clamping system to lock the cutting deck at your preferred angle - nuts and bolts, knobs, whatever you have.
> I don't understand why you'd want to clamp it to the router table, since it will be pushing past the cutter. How you'll guide it consistently past the cutter will depend totally on your table and what sort of grooves, tracks or channels are in it - whatever is there will determine how you control the jig. Maybe...the original builder is just relying on the fence to keep it straight, notice that he has quite a long fence, and nothing seems to be running in the channels on the router table.
> 
> Here's his pic again for reference:
> ...


John-

On clamping the jig the OP is looking at... Because that one has legs/supports that would hit the bit if it moved. That jig is like a table extension, angling the table and having the bit through the table, so you slide the panel over the face of the jig as if it were the table..

From what you say, you seem to be used to the jig I'm used to which is an adjustable angle router jig (sled), which slides in the miter slot, the work extends over the lip of the sled over the bit at an angle and the work is clamped to the jig while it slides. You use piano hinge - I just use regular hinges.

Peter-

Both jigs would do you. The jig you asked about would do you if you have a small table on your router table and your panels were long. IMHO- The one we mentioned would also work and might be more worthwhile to you in the long run. As being adjustable, if you find that the first angle you intended to use just doesn't look quite right to you (because it is too far or too close to the edge), you can change it, without having to build another fixed angle jig. And you can also re-use it for many other things.

Actually, that jig is just 2 pieces of rectangular stock hinged together on one side... 2 other pieces of stock cut long and narrow to drill a hole in one end (screwed to the bottom piece edge), other end with a slot that goes over a hanger bolt (and knob) in the upper piece to make it adjustable.

Tip on setting the angle? I just go over to my miter saw and cut 2 wedges of the angle I want, put it (temporarily) on each side, between the pieces of the jig and adjust to that. That way I know each side of it is even.

Good starting angle? 15 degrees on a panel jig is the most "often" used profile for creating panels, whether cabinets or doors... That creates a cut 75 degrees from the face -- 15 degrees from the edge/opposing side. How did I get that? << 90 degrees - 15 degrees = 75 degrees >>. 

How long will that profile be??? Well since you have the angle (15 degrees) and your depth of cut... you could dig back to try to remember Geometry to use formulas in SOHCAHTOA and the Pythagorean Theorem... but personally, I just take a piece of scrap, cut the profile, see it, measure it and adjust from there. For me, that's a whole lot faster than me having to figure out the math.

Either jig, depending on the reach of your router, you might have to use a bit extension to get to the height you need to be. That is much safer that thinking you can just slide the bit out of the seat of the collet to get a little more reach... like it looks like John's example was. ::scary::
***
Alternately, this could also be made on a Table Saw. Using the same type of jigs (and a dado) --or-- a TS Raised Panel Jig --or-- by doing an asymmetric cove cut for the profile using a cove fence and then a dado cut to create the lip.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

JCJCJC said:


> I don't understand why you'd want to clamp it to the router table, since it will be pushing past the cutter. How you'll guide it consistently past the cutter will depend totally on your table and what sort of grooves, tracks or channels are in it - whatever is there will determine how you control the jig.


Hi John

I've built a few of these jigs over the years for use on spindle moulders (shapers). They are always fixed onto the bed of the machine, a Shaw guard (or feather board) is rigged up to apply downwards pressure over the cutter (it also acts as a guard) and the material is then fed past the cutter. the jig doesn't move.

Regards

Phil


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## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

You could always resort to your table saw....


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## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

*I've been doodling...*



Phil P said:


> Hi John
> 
> I've built a few of these jigs over the years for use on spindle moulders (shapers). They are always fixed onto the bed of the machine, a Shaw guard (or feather board) is rigged up to apply downwards pressure over the cutter (it also acts as a guard) and the material is then fed past the cutter. the jig doesn't move.
> 
> ...


Thanks Phil, that explains a lot to me. For the OP, I've been trying to think this through, see attached sketch which is indicative only, not to scale or anything, and I'm not brilliant at computer drawing. The red indicates where the hinge would be. Taking Phil's helpful advice fully on board, I would use laminated chipboard or some similar board with a plastic surface for the cutting deck and wax it so that the panel could slide easily. 

Regards

John


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

PorterCable690 said:


> You could always resort to your table saw....


Thanks but my Triton table saw won't allow me to angle the blade.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

MAFoElffen said:


> John-
> 
> On clamping the jig the OP is looking at... Because that one has legs/supports that would hit the bit if it moved. That jig is like a table extension, angling the table and having the bit through the table, so you slide the panel over the face of the jig as if it were the table..
> 
> ...


Thanks for the helpful reply. I'll reply in more detail on Tuesday.
Cheers.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

JCJCJC said:


> Changing the angle ought to be straightforward enough. make the jig with a flat piece of MDF or plywood (as the original jig builder suggested) as a 'cutting deck' if I may call it that, but instead of fixing the edge at the pointy end, hinge it with two lengths of piano hinge, leaving a gap for the router cutter obviously. I would guess his jig's fixed angle was about 20 deg - you are not likely to be making a panel too far off that, maybe plus/minus 7 degrees or so? All you need do then is devise a solid clamping system to lock the cutting deck at your preferred angle - nuts and bolts, knobs, whatever you have.
> I don't understand why you'd want to clamp it to the router table, since it will be pushing past the cutter. How you'll guide it consistently past the cutter will depend totally on your table and what sort of grooves, tracks or channels are in it - whatever is there will determine how you control the jig. Maybe...the original builder is just relying on the fence to keep it straight, notice that he has quite a long fence, and nothing seems to be running in the channels on the router table.
> 
> Here's his pic again for reference:
> ...


Cheers, will get back to you in more detail on Tuesday.


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## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

_Thanks but my Triton table saw won't allow me to angle the blade.
__________________
If one takes the time and trouble to correctly set-up the Triton 2000 Workcentre and saw. They are capable of producing very accurate results._

accurate at 90 deg anyway, eh!!!!


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

JCJCJC said:


> _Thanks but my Triton table saw won't allow me to angle the blade._


_

In that case, search on user bobj3 on "raised panel jig triton"... I looked and he has so many posts I couldn't find it.

Someone was asking about a raised panel jig for a Triton, where the blade did not tilt. He had a jig he had built and uses (pictured in that post) where it went over the fence like a standard TS raise panel jig and had the vertical backboard just like the standard, but blank... then it had another backboard hinged off the top of that, with stays on the side... to tilt that part back towards the fence at 15 degrees. The panels were then clamped to it to get cut.

I thought that was a very elegant and ingenious solution to that. What might be faster is to PM him to ask about it. Maybe he'll repost it here with more detail on it's construction._


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Here's some snapshots

==


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Here's some snapshots
> 
> ==


Thanks, quite a lot of exposed blade there and dust would also be an issue.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

I have a Triton router table with a Dewalt 625 in it. The table is 69 cm long by 34 cm wide to the cutter itself. On the top board I could put a horizontal slot or slots ( to vary for wider panels ) for a homemade featherboard. How do I go about making this slot? Sorry to ask such simple questions but I am very new to all this 
Would MDF be OK for the featherboard?
I got a collet extender about a week ago.
Would 3/4 inch or 1/2 inch be best for the boards of this jig taking into account the collet extension is only so long?
I can clamp to table so jig is rigid.
Does the size of the cutter have anything to do with size of the raised panel angle itself?
Cheers.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Have a go at it and refine as you learn - often I find the Mk II version of my jigs is when things begin to come right. Be careful not to have the router bit sticking up to an unsafe extent, or you'll end up with a custom bit to rout around corners like this one I invented:

OK thanks.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

I'm going to put a mitre slot/s in the top board to accommodate a homemade featherboard.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

JCJCJC said:


> Thanks Phil, that explains a lot to me. For the OP, I've been trying to think this through, see attached sketch which is indicative only, not to scale or anything, and I'm not brilliant at computer drawing. The red indicates where the hinge would be. Taking Phil's helpful advice fully on board, I would use laminated chipboard or some similar board with a plastic surface for the cutting deck and wax it so that the panel could slide easily.
> 
> Regards
> 
> John


In your sketch where the height adjuster knob is. Won't the slot be curved to match the arc of the hinged end when opened? How would I go about cutting the curved slot to match the arc made by the hinged end?
Cheers.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

If you don't want to use the table saw to make panels here's one more way,it's safe and easy with a Vert.horzi.router bits.
MLCS Raised Panel Carbide Tipped Router Bits 2

No need to make a easy job into a hard one  plus no need for a tall fence the parallel sub fence will do all the works for you,feather boards just don't work well with making panels.. 

""""


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> If you don't want to use the table saw to make panels here's one more way,it's safe and easy with a Vert.horzi.router bits.
> MLCS Raised Panel Carbide Tipped Router Bits 2
> ...


I don't know if those cutters will raise a panel level with the thickness of the rails and stiles of an exterior/interior house door? Are there plans available for that jig?
Cheers.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Gaia said:


> Would MDF be OK for the featherboard?


Hi Peter

On that one you need to think about what a feather board is doing. It is acting a bit like the teeth in a comb do when they are flexed by your thumb. So, no, MDF won't do. And the "fingers" need to run in line with the grain, but some straight-grained (non-knotty) sofywood or hardwiid will do the trick

Regards

Phil


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Phil P said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> On that one you need to think about what a feather board is doing. It is acting a bit like the teeth in a comb do when they are flexed by your thumb. So, no, MDF won't do. And the "fingers" need to run in line with the grain, but some straight-grained (non-knotty) sofywood or hardwiid will do the trick
> 
> ...


OK thanks Phil, " but some straight-grained (non-knotty) sofywood or hardwiid will do the trick " Which ones?


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Gaia said:


> OK thanks Phil, " but some straight-grained (non-knotty) softwood or hardwood will do the trick " Which ones?


Hi Peter

Anything with a bit of spring in it. In fact anything you have got to hand will probably do. I've used offcuts of larch, ash, hickory, etc in the past

Regards

Phil


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## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

Gaia said:


> In your sketch where the height adjuster knob is. Won't the slot be curved to match the arc of the hinged end when opened? How would I go about cutting the curved slot to match the arc made by the hinged end?
> Cheers.


Yes, you are right of course - but I did say it was merely an indicative sketch, to get you thinking. You could eliminate the need for a curved slot by putting a pivot where the top of the adjuster meets the cutting deck, or you could cut the curved slot you require with any sort of manufactured or improvised radius-cutting attachment, often called a router compass, on your router. I would probably use the router, and I'd set out the curved slot first and remove a fair bit of material with drilled holes and a jigsaw or even with just a mallet and a chisel. You could also make a fence with a concave curve for the router base to ride on and create a curved slot that way.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

JCJCJC said:


> Yes, you are right of course - but I did say it was merely an indicative sketch, to get you thinking. You could eliminate the need for a curved slot by putting a pivot where the top of the adjuster meets the cutting deck, or you could cut the curved slot you require with any sort of manufactured or improvised radius-cutting attachment, often called a router compass, on your router. I would probably use the router, and I'd set out the curved slot first and remove a fair bit of material with drilled holes and a jigsaw or even with just a mallet and a chisel. You could also make a fence with a concave curve for the router base to ride on and create a curved slot that way.


Much appreciated, thanks.


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