# Mobile Sanding Station



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I was reading ShopNotes issue #103 and came across a nice plan for a Sanding Station. I need to wait till Monday to purchase my sprayer to finish the Maple Nightstands I am currently working on so I thought while the family is away why not build this in my spare time. So last night I headed out to RONA and bought 3/4" & 1/2" sheet of MDF with a sheet of GIS 1/2" Fir plywood to make the drawers.

I will post the pictures as I build it to hopefully assist others in building the same project if they so choose. Nice thing about this project is it will allow me to use the sprayer on it to paint it and thus give me practice using it before I attempt to spray the nightstands.:dirol:

Oh ya it will improve my health as well and help to reduce the amount of airborne particulates I inhale. On that note I am ready for a new face piece so I think I will use my old Scott face piece for spraying and outfit it with some charcoal cannister filters.

Stay tune while I head out to the shop and LETS MAKE SOME SAWDUST!:moil:


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Dan,

I look forward to following your progress on this project. :yes2:


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Base Cabinet complete*

Well todaty was a great day in the shop. I made a lot oof progress on the sanding station. If it wasn't for the snow storm I would be laughing actually turth be told I nearly cried and looked to the heavens and asked," why do you do this to me everytime I have a sheet of plywood on the driveway ready to cut". 

So I sued the old trick of a piece of stryofoam to help me cut the big 3/4" sheet of MDF. Simply lay down the MDF on top of the plywood and use a shop made cutting jig. ( See Picture 01)

Once the sheet of MDF was cut down to a manageable size I then thrimed it up on the table saw. Here is a good tip for you I like to use when cutting pieces to size. Always cut them an inch large so it allows you to use the factory edge on the table saw first to give a square edge on the other side wonce oyu cut the first edge. Once the outside "non=factory edge is cut you can flip the sheet over and trim the factory edge if it is marred.

Now as I said in early it began to snow on me once I had the MDF on the styrofoam on the driveway. We all know how MDF does not like water so for those who think I am crazy keeping a squeegy in the shop ... well think again.:blink:

I used the squeegy to quickly remove the water that had beaded up on the MDF sheet. It worked very well and saved my sheet from warping and being ruined.( see picture 02)

Once I had the sheet ripped down the middle ... well almost the middle but you get my drift I brought it inside to the roller stand. (BTW this is an awesome stand given the adjustability of it.) I place the sheet on the roller stand and have the other end supported by the table saw top. After using the shop jig I have now my roguh dimension which can then be trimed down to length and width. Notice how I have two jigs for ripping. One is 8" long and the other is 4' long. This comes in handy if space is an issue and its just makes sense to have a shorter jig to rip across the 48" sheet of MDF. (See picture 03)

In the next picture you will see how I utilize my 52" fence to cut a long pice down to size. Note how I have yet to build a side table to the right of the blade ( one day this will house my router table top) To solve the problem of the sheet of MDF dropping and thus not making a square cut I place a piece of 1/2" plywood to account for the drop. (see picture 04)

After cutting all the pieces I then had to change over to my Dado cutting blade. I bought a high grade set from *Dimar* and boy does it dow a nice job of cutting dados. I always keep a journal on what shims I used to achieve a tight fitting dado. This way it saves time the next time you want to cut the same material. Yes I know not all plywood is made equal but MDF sure is a standard size. It will at least get you close and you can always fine tune the size by making test cuts. (See picture 05)

To set the depth of cut I like to use my combination square to set the depth. I find I can set it right on without to much worry or hassle. (see pictiure 06)

After I cut a test piece I always make sure it fits snug and the depth is correct. (See picture 07 & 08)


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Sorry I hit the submit button by mistake.:nono:

OK in the next picture 09 I use a sacrificial fence I made up. I always make sure it sits square and to ensure it is I simply use a square up against it. Notice the *Fence Clamps *from Rockler I use to quickly attach the axillary fence to my existing fence.

After I have cut the dado's I line them up on a flat surface to ensure they are identical. (See picture 10)

Next I do a dry set up to make sure everything fits properly. This also allows me to foresee and problems I may run into during the glue phase and I strongly encourage you to do test Dry Fit. before and glue is used. In this case I forgot to dado the back edge and caught before it was too late. Note how I have made a shop made jig to help me square up the divider shelf .(See picture 11 & 12)

In order to have the two 1/2" pieces of MDF sit in the middle I had to rip them to a 30 degree angle. To help me set the saw to 30 degrees I bought two drafting triangles. Once the pieces were cut I then placed them in the cabinet for a dry fit to make sure they fit ok. I actually had to tweak the Angle to 31 degrees because it fit better. ( 45 degree square and the other is 60 and 30 degrees) I attached the back and checked for square also added (2) pieces ripped on the same angle to add support for the 1/2" pieces where they met the sides of the 3/4" .See picture 13, 14 & 15).

I hope I do not offend anybody by providing my tips and step by step narration. I am just trying to help those people you may be a little intimidated by tackling a project like this. Heck if I can figure it out so can you.:nhl_checking:

Tomorrow is suppose to warm up so I will buy my sprayer and spray the pieces prior to assembly and it will give me the opportunity to play with my new spray gun before I try it on the Maple Night Stands.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*More pictures of the Sanding Station*

Here are the rest to complete the post I just did.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Dan that is a good write-up. will look forward to your finished product, I need to make one in the future. Where did you say you got the plans?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

ShopNotes #103 issue. hehehe you must have missed the first sentence in the post.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Drawers Complete*

After I hate my spaghetti meal made with the moose I shot last fall I decided I might as well head back out to the garage. I decided to tackle the drawers. I went with locking rabbet joints for the drawers.

If you have always but jointed your drawers you may want to give this a try. The first thing I do is stand my drawers up after cutting them to size to orientate them to their respective positions. I use the triangle marking scheme to easily place the parts in their proper position.

The plans called for 1/2" plywood and I had some 3/4" MDF left over and found there was just enough to do the job so I opted for 3/4" drawers apposed to 1/2". 

It is very important to measure your drawer opening. I am using Accuride hardware and it takes up 1/2" on both sides for a total of 1" off the width of your drawer. Example: Drawer RO is 22" so the slides will take up 1" so the max width of the drawer will be 21". Tonight for some reason I was off by 1/16" and the drawer was too big. Too o overcome this problem I used my belt sander and I shaved a 1/32" off each side and now it fits very nicely. I almost screamed when I realized my error but hell my motto is "adapt, over come and improvise" :sold:

The rabbets are made by dadoing a 3/8" groove into the sides of the drawers and a mating tongue for the front and back. With 3/4" I like to inset the dado 3/8" deep and wide.

after changing out the blade for a dado blade I cut a test piece to see how it fit and if I had 5 fingers I'd say he fit like a glove nice and tight :agree:

In the picture # 3775 I have shown the set up. Now I did not have a piece of 3/8" material to put up against the fence so I used 1/2". Normally you want to use the same thickness material as the inset of the dado. I my situation I had 3/8" inset and how to manually adjust the second cut once I made the groove in the sides of the drawers.

To cut the tongue you simply remove the piece you had up against the fence to give you the exact fit but I had to manually adjust it.

Once you get all the pieces cut you then set it up and mark the inside slot for the drawer bottom. I was using 1/4" HD for the bottom so I made a slot to allow the 1/4" to slide into place.

I should note that when you make the pieces and cut the bottom groove for the drawer bottom make sure to cut the *drawer back off the 1/2" distance you made the initial cut for the groove*. This will allow you to slide the drawer bottom into place and then use 3/4" long 18 guage brad nails to secure it in place. I also use a small brush and glue all the dados and spread out the glue evenly. While I am gluing I always have a small pail of warm water and a rag to wipe off any excess glue.

Tomorrow I will cut the drawer faces. I have some left over 1" thick MDF so I might as well use it up. :yes4: I also need to cut the 4" hole into the back of the cabinet for the dust collection hose. I will post how I go about doing that.

Well its 2 am and I better get to bed. I can;t wait to buy the spray gun tomorrow.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

TRN_Diesel said:


> ShopNotes #103 issue. hehehe you must have missed the first sentence in the post.


Missed it bigger than life. This is what happens as you age, first your hair goes and then your body goes and then mind goes, and not necessarily in that order!! Or as a fella once said "I haven't lost my mind, it is backed up on hard drive somewhere".


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Dan,

When you get after a project, you REALLY get after it. That is a lot of progress in a short period of time. Great pictures and write up. Looking forward to the remainder and thanks for sharing with us.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Wow you don't want to take a couple of days off from this forum, you can miss a whole lot in a short time!
Excellent progress on that sanding station Dan and a very good write up as well. I may be able to cancel my subscription to ShopNotes if you keep this up


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*New HVLP Sprayer*

Progress has been fast and furious but as you can see with my helper it was as Shell Buzzy would say , "It's that easy folks". Managed to get the front and back panel cut today as well as the drawer faces. I got the front and back laid out for accepting the cross rails that will support the grates on top. I pre-drilled the holes and counter sunk them so I can easily fill the holes and sand them smooth prior to painting. (Picture 100_3791)

I also bought some paint. I went with a very durable paint made by Varathane. I also will primed the cabinet and all of its pieces prior to painting. Here is another tip for painting MDF. On exposed ends you need to use a finer sandpaper to help seal the grain sort of speaking. I find using 400 grit sandpaper gives a polish finish and helps seal the ends prior to applying any sealer/primer and then stain or paint. (Picture 100_3795)

Yesterday was a great day because I finally bought the dream sprayer I have always wanted. Min you this unit is not cheap but hell I am to poor to buy cheap and look at this as an investment. I decided on a T-75Q - HVLP 3 stage Turbine unit by _Lemmer_ . They are a Calgary based company here in Alberta and figured why not support a Canadian company. Plus they have a service center right here in Edmonton 15 minutes away. (Picture 100_3792)

It came with a 1.4 and 2.0 nozzle tip which essentially means I can spray anything including Latex paint. I will have to wait till were out of the ice age here and then fire this puppy up and try it on the Sanding Station.

I am waiting to assemble the sanding station till I get the baffles and front & back of the unit painted. This will limited the blow back while painting. The other reason is I want to practice my technique. See Picture (100_3793).

In the plans it calls for the top grates to be made of MDF but the side rails are made from Pine or Spruce. To me this will look ridiculous so I am going to make the grates from milled 2x6 Spruce studs. I will make small ticks and then cut short pieces and place them on either end to provide a uniform spacing. Once they are made I will apply three coats of Shellac with my new sprayer :yes2: on them to seal them and they will match the side rails. ( Picture forth coming)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dan

WOW,, just asking did you pay 850.oo for that paint setup ?


http://www.lemmer.com/index1.html
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TRN_Diesel said:


> Progress has been fast and furious but as you can see with my helper it was as Shell Buzzy would say , "It's that easy folks". Managed to get the front and back panel cut today as well as the drawer faces. I got the front and back laid out for accepting the cross rails that will support the grates on top. I pre-drilled the holes and counter sunk them so I can easily fill the holes and sand them smooth prior to painting. (Picture 100_3791)
> 
> I also bought some paint. I went with a very durable paint made by Varathane. I also will primed the cabinet and all of its pieces prior to painting. Here is another tip for painting MDF. On exposed ends you need to use a finer sandpaper to help seal the grain sort of speaking. I find using 400 grit sandpaper gives a polish finish and helps seal the ends prior to applying any sealer/primer and then stain or paint. (Picture 100_3795)
> 
> ...


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

That is going to be one killer sanding station. I'm thinking you should have went with the 5" wheels. 
I see you get to run all the power tools and the helper has to do things manually eh?  LOL


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> HI Dan
> 
> WOW,, just asking did you pay 850.oo for that paint setup ?
> 
> ...


Ummm almost 899.00 plus GST and $20 for a cleaning kit. All in came to $965.48 Yes I know am I crazy .... you bet I am  but spray paint happy.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

CanuckGal said:


> That is going to be one killer sanding station. I'm thinking you should have went with the 5" wheels.
> I see you get to run all the power tools and the helper has to do things manually eh?  LOL


Hehehee I hear ya but I went to Princess Auto and got the other caster and got the heavy duty ones 5" and there dark blue to match my paint on the cabinet. LOL sort of like a woman hey Deb making sure my belt matches my sh:agreees.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

> LOL sort of like a woman hey Deb making sure my belt matches my shoes.


And the 1000.00 paint sprayer would be the matching purse no doubt..LOL

Good for you!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

LOL yes how right you are. Here is how I look at it.

Consider the cost of all the machines in your shop and hand tools. Now add them all up and build something, have it ruined by blotching stain or runs and its all for not IMHHO. 

Besides I can right it off for my Contracting company and I have a custom built in cabinet job coming up in the summer time that will make fast work of finishing the built in cabinets for a reading den I will be doing.


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## Barry99 (Feb 10, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Sorry I hit the submit button by mistake.:nono:
> 
> OK in the next picture 09 I use a sacrificial fence I made up. I always make sure it sits square and to ensure it is I simply use a square up against it. Notice the *Fence Clamps *from Rockler I use to quickly attach the axillary fence to my existing fence.
> 
> ...


Keep the pics and commentary coming Dan. It's easier to learn by visuialization plus they are great ideas.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks Barry I appreciate your comments and will do my best.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Grates done today*

Today I managed to get out in the garage and work for another 4 hours to complete cutting all of the pieces need to assembly the top of the sanding cabinet.

I needed to cut (7) pieces 1 1/2" x 22" long and 3/4" thick to support the grates on the top of the sanding cabinet. These grates allow the sanding dust to fall down onto the baffles I have made which then redirects them to a 4" hole at the bottom of the baffles where they meet on a 31 degree angle.

I did not like the idea of only 3/4" piece to rest on for two grates that will be butting up to one another. So off I went to my new plywood cart to see what I had for scrap material. I just happen to have some 1" thick MDF left over from when I made a Taper Jig. I was able to cut these pieces and decided to make them 2 1/4" in width apposed to the 1 1/2" in the plans for ease and safer cutting. (Picture 100_3797). 

Note how I have clamped a piece of 1/2" MDF up on the fence as a stop block. I like to use 1/2" because you can easily add this to your overall length to cut achieve a perfect cut piece to the proper length. This assumes you Will be using the right side of the MITRE slot on the table saw as shown in the picture. When I want to make certain all my pieces are the exact same length this easy setup ensures *100% satisfaction or your money back *:blink:

I wanted to make the grates out of pine but I do not have my jointer jig made yet so I opted for this 3/4" - 15 1/4" x 96" I bought milled to size for $18.00. It is finger jointed so it should not warp on me. I ripped the piece into (8) 5 3/4" x 22" pieces. Once again I used the stop block to cut them all to the exact length. (Picture 100_3798 & 100_3799)

Layout is used by using a combination square. I set one to the required length of 7/8" in from both ends. Then laid them all out manually I could of and probably should of made a jig but I guess my drafting love affair kicked in and I got to make a lot of lines:agree: (Picture 100_3800)

Next I was off to my "sweet" drill press table. I set the fence for the required 7/8" and it was just a matter of drilling a 1/4" hole for all the slots. (Picture
100_3804 - 3807)

After all the pieces were drilled I had to cut the slots. I really need a router table because this could o f been done easily with one had I found a day with 28 hours in it. To get around this I came up with a simple plan of using my table saw. I used a scrap piece first and marked the location on the table saw where to begin the cut and end the cut and placed a piece of you guessed it "Duct Tape". *Very Carefully I set my blade height and then placed the piece over the blade and slowly lowered it (like a plunge cut) and then ripped the first slot to the end of the second mark on the table.*
For consistency I lined all my boards up in the same manner and orientation and kept it like that for the duration of the saw cuts. I had to make all the cuts on the slot and then move it over to cut the over side of the 1/4" hole I drilled. I choose a 1/4" because the saw kerf is 1/8" so if you make two passes you have your groove cut to the exact size. (Picture 100_3808 & 100__3809)

After all the slots were cut I had to finish the cuts to the holes I drilled. I used my jig saw for this and clamp each piece to the table saw top. (Picture 100_3812, 100_3813).

After looking at the finished product I thought this whole thing is square like so why not square off the ends rather than have a circle. So I used the jig saw and extended the cut to the initial 7/8" mark I made on both ends of the boards. (Picture 100_3813, 100_3814, & 100_3815)

All that is left is the trim around the top edge of the cabinet. These pieces Will be made form (2) 2 x 6 Spruce studs I bought. I think this will look great as the grates I made are Fir and the contrast will be awesome apposed to using MDF as called in the plans. But before I tackle that I have to turn my table saw into a jointer. Wait and see how I use my table saw as a jointer by building this neat jig.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Too many Grates*

Well I goofed up and made (8) grates and only needed (4). The two outside grates are suppose to be solid to allow for concentrated airflow around the piece being sanded. 

I am not sure but I think it would be better to have the entire surface made of grates with slots in it to allow for bigger pieces to be sanded. I guess I can make (4) more pieces in case I need it but with the dust system I plan on buying it should have plenty of suction to pull all the dust down into the table and out to the dust collection system.

If not maybe Deb or someone else can use the extra ones if they build one of these.:lol:


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

That's a darn fine job on those grates. Unfortunately they are far too big for my little bench top down draft table. Until I build that dream shop of mine I need to stop buying/building tools and jigs.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I thouight "one can not have too many jigs"?


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

And one can never have ENOUGH space to house them!


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## Barry99 (Feb 10, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Today I managed to get out in the garage and work for another 4 hours to complete cutting all of the pieces need to assembly the top of the sanding cabinet.
> 
> I needed to cut (7) pieces 1 1/2" x 22" long and 3/4" thick to support the grates on the top of the sanding cabinet. These grates allow the sanding dust to fall down onto the baffles I have made which then redirects them to a 4" hole at the bottom of the baffles where they meet on a 31 degree angle.
> 
> ...


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Well I goofed up and made (8) grates and only needed (4). The two outside grates are suppose to be solid to allow for concentrated airflow around the piece being sanded.
> 
> I am not sure but I think it would be better to have the entire surface made of grates with slots in it to allow for bigger pieces to be sanded. I guess I can make (4) more pieces in case I need it but with the dust system I plan on buying it should have plenty of suction to pull all the dust down into the table and out to the dust collection system.
> 
> If not maybe Deb or someone else can use the extra ones if they build one of these.:lol:


After seeing the spray set up I can just about imagine what kind of dust system are you planning!! I will just have to be patient and see.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Barry99 said:


> TRN_Diesel said:
> 
> 
> > Today I managed to get out in the garage and work for another 4 hours to complete cutting all of the pieces need to assembly the top of the sanding cabinet.
> ...


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Jerry all thnigs as you take time but I am hoping to get the cabinet doen this weekend in between my night shifts provided weere not too busy.

I am still toying with the idea of buying just a small unit capable of 600 CFM since I can only use one machine at a time. I have found a used one for $120.00 with a 1HP motor 110 volt.


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## Barry99 (Feb 10, 2009)

That's a lot of cuts. LOL


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Side railes*

Today I managed to cut the side rails and mill them down to size. I was able to use my new Jointer to square up a 2x6 stud I had and it worked great.

I decided to give the top edge a rounded look and the bottom edge of Schafer 30 degree. I setup my old router table which still does the job just fine.

I will be spraying the pieces of the sanding cabinet tomorrow and I am very excited to try out the new HVLP sprayer by Lemmer.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Primer applied using my new LEmmer T-75Q HVLP sprayer*

Today I was very nervous about spraying the cabinet with primer. I was so unsure of what or how to spray on the primer.

I want to thank Charles Neil foremost for his DVD series on finishing. After watching the the two hour segments on Sprayers I was somewhat confident on tackling this next phase in my project.

I started with having all my parts sanded down and labeled them in areas that would allow me to correctly put them back in the same location. I can't stress this enough because it sure saves you a lot of grief in the end.

After changing my nozzle out and installing the 2.0 size which is designed for Latex ( btw it came with two nozzle sizes 1.4 & 2.0) I had to figure out the viscosity of the primer. The instructions state to fill the suppled cup and pour the paint out and time it. Well I am patient but this stuff was slower than the second coming of "Christ" so I just added some water and thinned it out a bit. 

I spray up against a scrap piece of cardboard I had figured out the spray patterns and saw the consistency was ok in my books.

I sprayed the smaller pieces first along with the front and back and then the drawer faces and finally the drawers themselves. I did the cabinet last and to say I am pleased would be an understatement.

BJ I can assure you the cost of this sprayer is worth every penny I paid for it. I can't not believe how easy it is to use and how quick it is. I am happy to announce I am now enjoying painting. 

After I was done all I had to do was take it all apart and wash it down and then run some soapy water through it. All the parts are metal so this machine will last me a long time if I keep care of it which I will.I was surprised though how warm the sprayer hose got after using it. 

Now I am ready tomorrow to paint the cabinet so stay tune.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

Nice job

Looks like it can do a nice job ,,I use the one below, it's not as nice as yours but it will do the same as yours but it's only 50.oo bucks from HF  they do sale one that's a step up from what I have but I don't need it all the time just now and then.. 

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
http://www.harborfreight.com/manuals/66000-66999/66297.pdf
======


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Bob 

Will yours do Latex Paint?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

Yep ,comes with 3 tips ( assembles ) it can put on the real fine(thin) stuff and almost cement consistently  the clean tip set is 4.00 bucks...

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TRN_Diesel said:


> Bob
> 
> Will yours do Latex Paint?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Dan,

Excellent job so far.:sold: I'm getting anxious just to see it finished.  :yes4:


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Well done Dan! Looks like you'll have that sprayer mastered in no time flat. What's the name of the video you watched? I'm not in the market for a HVLP sprayer yet, but I'd like to see the video anyway.
Thanks.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Charles Neil Vide on Finishing*



CanuckGal said:


> Well done Dan! Looks like you'll have that sprayer mastered in no time flat. What's the name of the video you watched? I'm not in the market for a HVLP sprayer yet, but I'd like to see the video anyway.
> Thanks.


I bought the 10 box set of DVD's on finishing and it is called "Finishing A to Z: Beyond the Books"

I have provided the link which shows you a sneak preview of it.


The Workshop of Charles Neil - DVD Preview


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I sure am looking forward to seeing it all together!! If i like it I will have to build me one some day!! Dan you sure do nice work.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Very cool project and techniques. From the way you use the table saw, I can tell you've spent some quality time with it.

I've done a bit of HVLP spraying and the equipment and gun are the keys to success. Your new rig looks like a fine unit. Did it come with a small top loading cup? I found those very nice to use, especially for smaller jobs.

With time, you'll decide what are the kind and brands of finishes to use. One primer that I use a lot is sold by Sherwin-Williams. It is an alkyd based primer, has good hide and sealing and lays down very flat. I've used it on many projects, including cabinets:Prep-rite Pro block


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

westend said:


> Very cool project and techniques. From the way you use the table saw, I can tell you've spent some quality time with it.
> 
> I've done a bit of HVLP spraying and the equipment and gun are the keys to success. Your new rig looks like a fine unit. Did it come with a small top loading cup? I found those very nice to use, especially for smaller jobs.
> 
> With time, you'll decide what are the kind and brands of finishes to use. One primer that I use a lot is sold by Sherwin-Williams. It is an alkyd based primer, has good hide and sealing and lays down very flat. I've used it on many projects, including cabinets:Prep-rite Pro block


Yes it does and thanks for the tip on the primer. I will have to check to see if I can buy this locally in Edmonton or I may have to order some.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Temporary Paint Booth*

Today I got ready to use the blue oil based paint on the cabinet. I went over all the parts with 400 grit sandpaper and used the shop vac with a brush on the end to collect all the dust.

I came up with a temporary spray booth inside the shop seeing it was too windy outside today to spray. I had some left over 1 x 4 board and attached plastic to it and attached them to the rafters to make a back and 2 side walls.

Then things went south of me and I turned my shop into Papa Smurf:shout: I thought I had the gun put back together right but failed to test it first with just water. When I turned on the turbine it started to spray paint and much to my dismay I was left with a huge mess to clean up. 

My drawers on the nightstands got sprayed as well as the drill press and my quick clamps. Well enough said you can see by the photo what happened. I was not able to get the gun to work properly so I am off tomorrow morning to the dealer and see what I am doing wrong.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

OUCH!!! That has to bite! Hope you get it all sorted out. (and cleaned up  )


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Boy Dan ya gotta hate when that happens. Would be oil base to boot!!


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## kartracer63 (Jan 19, 2009)

Whoa.... That really sucks

Eric


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Well got back form Lemmer and discovered the spring was inserted imporperly. There were three springs and I had one of them reversed. In the exploded diagram of the parts it did not differiate the springs so now I know and trust ne when I say I will never make that mistake again.


I guess this is a test of character and teaches one hunility above all else. I am looking at the postive thing which is I could have sprayed my nightstands and did not. I did however spray the drawers for the nightstand and will see if the baltic birch I used can be sanded down. If not well I guess I will have to break out my newest tool "Craftex - Dovetail Jig" and take it out for a test run and buy some wood for the drawers and make a nice dovetail joint.

I did manage to get the drill press cleaned up but the top is a tinted blue now. 

Papa Smurf is now signing out and headed to his Blue world but not in a blue mood.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Yep, welcome to the world of spray painting, forgotten O-rings, loose cups, gun pieces not tight, etc..Your new best buddy is laquer thinner, cures a ton of mistakes. Good luck in the future.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Hmmm... maybe I stick to good old slap it on with a brush painting for a while.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*1st Coat of Oil Based Paint via HVLP Sprayer*

Well today was a much better day once I figured out what I did wrong. I thinned my 1st coat approximately 10% as per the instructions on the can using mineral spirits.

It sure is easy to run out of room to put things once you start spraying but I manage to find a resting spot for each of the pieces.
I must say the paint went out preety slick and now that it is semi dry it is a glass like finish.

I am painting both inside and out on the sanding unit to help preserve the MDF. Once the paint dries I will give it two days I will have to put a second coat on it. Then I will assembly the sanding station and spray some lacquer on the grates. After two coats of lacquer I will install them onto the cabinet.

Not sure how I will do the joints on the molding. I am tempted to try my dovetail jig on them or do a finger joint but then again its only a sanding station. Any opinions out there as to how I should finish the molding?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

westend said:


> Yep, welcome to the world of spray painting, forgotten O-rings, loose cups, gun pieces not tight, etc..Your new best buddy is laquer thinner, cures a ton of mistakes. Good luck in the future.


How do you use the lacquer thinner? With a brush you can brush away runs?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Dan, just a helpful hint on when taking things apart. Take pictures as you're taking something apart, this way, you have the idea of how it goes back together.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> Dan, just a helpful hint on when taking things apart. Take pictures as you're taking something apart, this way, you have the idea of how it goes back together.


Yes I do know that now its a matter of practicing what I know! :lol:

Just got to darn excited taking it apart it was like I was back in fifth grade or something. :laugh:

But ya thanks for the reminder next time I wll do that.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Well at least the blue is beginning to show up on the correct items. It's just getting it off the rest of the stuff. I have never done what you did here, but I sure relate to it. I have managed to mess up a thing or two in my time. 

I have contended and still do that we will all make mistakes big or small, it isn't the mistake, its how you handle it that counts. I would say you have handled it quite well so congratulations are in order old buddy good job!!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> Well at least the blue is beginning to show up on the correct items. It's just getting it off the rest of the stuff. I have never done what you did here, but I sure relate to it. I have managed to mess up a thing or two in my time.
> 
> I have contended and still do that we will all make mistakes big or small, it isn't the mistake, its how you handle it that counts. I would say you have handled it quite well so congratulations are in order old buddy good job!!


Thanks Jerry I was in shock when it happened but oh well these things do happen. I actually got all the paint off what matters the most and that is my clamps and drill press.

As for mistakes a quote comes to mind:

1) "A man never learned form the things he did right, only the things he has done wrong".

P.S.
Lets all not forget what they did to the last guy who was perfect? ( Hint his initials are JC.)

This project is winding down soon but I am very excited to get it finished and start using it.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> How do you use the lacquer thinner? With a brush you can brush away runs?


Laquer thinner is a solvent that will cut most oil based paints. It is used for cleanup, removal, and thinning. It was used extensively in the auto body industry before the advent of urethane and other non-laquer finishes. 
Yes, for removing runs and drips with oil based paints it is great. Depending upon the type of finish and application rate, a quick dab or wipe with a laquer thinner-soaked rag and another shot from the gun will often recover that spot where an excessive amount of paint caused a run or sag. You are probably going to experience problematic finish applications. It goes with the turf, so to speak. Temperature of your working area can be critical when using some of the more technical finishes like alkyd and laquer. Also, there are always those spots where an excess tends to form, corners, crevices, etc.. 
All of this is a learning curve and all spray painters learn from experience. I've found that keeping first application rates towards the low-end and waiting for the finish to "flash" or set a bit, then reapplying an overcoat works pretty good. I get an easier bond to the work from the initial application, resulting in less runs.
You're ahead of the curve, initially, by buying good equipment and starting off on projects that are less demanding. Good luck and keep that lid on tight.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks for the information. I have already found that if I apply a thin coat and use a few passes to apply the paint it helps to avoid runs. I have used a spray bomb most of the time so have limited experience using a gun but I seem to be picking it up fairly easily. 

I did puprosely start on a easier project to help me build my confidence. We all know its better to have sucecss and build upon it. I am using mineral spirits for the thining as per the instruction on the can.

I did a good cleaning on the gun after I was done and will hopefully have better success on the second coat as far as the spray gun being assembled correcty.

Well have to run I have a call again! lol


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Casters installed*

Yesterday I got the 5" casters installed. I decided to use a lag screw apposed to #12 screws because of the strength and durability.

I cut s small piece of scrap for a jig to assist in making sure the casters were equal height prior to being installed. 

These casters are lockable and all have swivels.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Baffles installed with back.*

Today was a good day in the shop because I finally got the baffles installed. Prior to putting on the front and back I first had to cut a 4" hole for the dust collection.

To do this I used a technique I read about in ShopNotes. I had a 4 1/4" hole saw and a 3 1/2" hole saw. So here are the steps I took to cut a 4" hole using a simple jig I made out of 3/4" MDF and a flush bit.

1) Install a circle cutter on the drill press.

2) Lay out the line for the center of the hole you plan on cutting with reference lines to assist later in lining up the template to the piece you need to cut a hole into. (Picture 100_3872)

3) Install a 3 1/2" hole saw into a drill. Cut the hole. Make sure you extend the "x" and "y" axis to help you line up the jig you cut on the drill press.

4) Using carpet tape attach the template to the piece you want to cut a hole into and make sure the reference lines are touching one another.

5) Using a router with a flush bit installed rout out the 1/2" to make a 4" hole.

Once I had the back of the cabinet installed I used caulking that I can paint to make a good seal around the inside to ensure good suction and no air loss.

I used Brad nails 18 gauge 1 1/4" long and glued on the front of the cabinet. I have filled all the brad holes and will do a light sanding and then get it ready for a final coat of paint. 

Tomorrow I will attach the supports for the grates and install the drawers and drawer fronts.


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## jmg1017 (Apr 9, 2009)

I'm liking this project a lot. Just wish I had the room for it. 
Great Job!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Looking good Dan. I guess you are close to the final assembly, looking forward to the part.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Wooden Grates Installed with Moulding*

The family went back to Jasper for the long weekend and I have to work on Saturday so I decided to head out tonight and see what I could get done in regards to the sanding station and specifically the grates.

Once I had the baffles installed I tested to see if the grates would fit and they were a tad bit to large. I had to cut a fine edge of both sides to keep them uniform and after four passes on the table saw I had a perfect fit. ( I have cut some stuff six times and it was still to small! :haha

I did not have a friend handy to help me with the molding and I like to fit stuff to size rather than taking a measurement. To get around this dilemma I decided to use some carpet tape and attach the two end pieces and then fit the long side pieces. I also used some clamps to make it easier to hold things in place while I measured the pieces.

Once I had the piece cut I then decided to attach them onto the cabinet using 2" screws. Rather than fill in the holes I decided to spruce things up a bit ( no pun intended there :ha ha I drill the holes first with a pilot bit and then used a 3/8" Forester bit sized to fit the 3/8" wooden plugs I will use to cover the screw holes with. The wood used for the plugs is maple and the molding is Spruce cut from a 2 x 6 stud. Note I had to re cut one side due to the board warping beyond tolerable limits so I had to take a step back and re-cut the front long piece.

After the molding was cut and installed I used my palm router to round over the edges on the ends. I used a block plane to shave the underside of the molding where I had cut a 30 degree bevel. I used the block plane to shave off ever so slightly the high spots which I found by running my fingers along the inside edge. I must say the block plane was tuned to perfection and was a pleasure to use on this project. The shavings were like silk paper coming off and it was great to feel it beneath my hands as I worked the wood and saw how it left a lovely sheen on the surface which was ever so smooth to the touch.

The next day I will glue the pieces onto the cabinet and then apply some polyurethane to it. I plan on getting the drawers done as well and with any luck be done tomorrow. So stay tune I am almost done this project!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Wow Dan that is looking SWEEEEEET!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks Deb its been a nice project to build and I look forward to its completion.

P.S. Nice picture btw I finally get to put a name to a face.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Dan that really is a great project. Just in case you don't have room in your shop for that, I will send you my address and you can ship it here!! Shoot man I'll even pay for the shipping!! 
I am sure you mentioned it, but what are you using for vacuum on that? Be sure to let us know how it will work. I would imagine that compared to nothing, there is only one way to go. That very well may be, will be a project for my shop sometime in the near future.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Well Jerry for now I will be using a shop vacuum but I plan on pick up a dust colection unit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

You are doing a great job,,,the more and the more I look at you cabinet the more it looks likes the sand blaster cabinet I made but not as nice as yours.
it makes me want to rework mind just a little bit,I have a big glass front door to keep dust in place,I put a dust devil vac on the side to hold the dust in the bag,you know sand dust it's all over the place...just like sanding dust..
It's has about the same foot print as yours but it just hangs on the way..

Yours looks great...  thanks for the pictures ...


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TRN_Diesel said:


> Well Jerry for now I will be using a shop vacuum but I plan on pick up a dust colection unit.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Thanks Deb its been a nice project to build and I look forward to its completion.
> 
> P.S. Nice picture btw I finally get to put a name to a face.


Spouse popped into the garage with the camera and said " I need to take your picture so I can remember what you look like." 

I can't repeat what I said here. LOL


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Sandiing Station done!*

Today I managed to get the drawers installed with the drawer fronts and mounted the handles.

I also went out and bought some more lumber to make some solid panels for the top grates to allow me to control the air flow. I began to consider this after realizing the large open surface may impeded the down draft capability of the tabletop. Plus I think it looks sharper:agree:

In the pictures I have laid out how I did the drawer assembly. I came up with this idea and like to use it because it makes installing the drawers easy and fast.

I applied two coats of two lbs cut of White Shellac to help protect the Brazilian pine I got at RONA. I like the grainly look, the knots and the rustic feel it brings to the cabinet.

I need to mount a Square "D" box with 4 power outlets onto the side with a 25" extension cord so I can plug it into a power source.

I am also planning on making a sorting shelve to store my sheets of sand paper on the left side of the cabinet. I am planning this because I am right handed so it makes sense to install the power box on the right so the cords are not crossing over in front of you.

This was a great project and I look forward to using it in the shop. It will certainly help minimize the dust in the shop and god knows it will be healthier for my lungs.

I hope you enjoyed the step by step process I have taken you all through. I certainly enjoyed building it and I hope you make one too . You will not be disappointed.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Pictures*

I am having problems uploading the pictures I am getting this error :

Your submission could not be processed because a security token was missing.

If this occurred unexpectedly, please inform the administrator and describe the action you performed before you received this error.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Drawer assembly*

Here is what I did to put them together


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Drawers continued*

More pics


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Rest of the pictures*

Here is the finished product


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

You did a terrific job from start to finish. It will be a great addition to your shop! Congrats!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks Debbie I appreciate the kind words.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Dan that is excellent. Is this a different top, or is it interchangeable with the grated top? With either it is well done, with the top interchangeable it is even better. I have enjoyed your write up and will keep it book marked for future reference. Sometimes it is not worth reinventing the wheel if you know what I mean.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> Dan that is excellent. Is this a different top, or is it interchangeable with the grated top? With either it is well done, with the top interchangeable it is even better. I have enjoyed your write up and will keep it book marked for future reference. Sometimes it is not worth reinventing the wheel if you know what I mean.


Yes I decided to make some more pieces for the top but these are solid and they are interchangeable with the grates. It allows for more flexibility.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Hey Dan,
Really neat project and good documentation of the process. I bet that mobile station will be become a real asset for you. I might try a version of it, myself. The paint finish is excellent, BTW.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Dan that is a good move with the tops, gives you two work surfaces in one. It does look good, but have you tried it out yet? How does it work? As projected I trust.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Dan,

I have really enjoyed following your project build and thank you for taking the time to share it with us. It turned out really well with a lot of thought and planning and the end result is a very useful shop utility.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

No I have not tested it yet because I need to buy the dust collection but the washer broke down so the money I had set aside is now been put to use on the Washer & Dryer because my wife wanted the matching dryer. grrrrrrr

I did get a nice cheque from Revenue Canada after I did my taxes so maybe I will dip into that and buy one.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Looks great Dan
I'm wondering if sanded parts will be wandering around on you. I made a sanding plate for my RT and had to put sand paper on it to stop that.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

AxlMyk said:


> Looks great Dan
> I'm wondering if sanded parts will be wandering around on you. I made a sanding plate for my RT and had to put sand paper on it to stop that.



No I use a sanding mat with holes in it. The pieces stay put while sanding. NOw though the dust can fall below and be sucked away.


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## davidbarr (Apr 28, 2009)

looks great. i will definatley be referencing this post when i build one. you should submit your pics along with instructions to a magazine. this thread is that top notch. thanks for the info.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

davidbarr said:


> looks great. i will definatley be referencing this post when i build one. you should submit your pics along with instructions to a magazine. this thread is that top notch. thanks for the info.


Thank you for the compliment but hey I just followed shop notes instructions and added a few of my own.

I am glad it helped and if you do build one be sure to share some pictures with us.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Minor Upgrades to the sanding station*

Well after using this sanding station I decided I needed to tweak it a bit.

I wanted to maximize the table top surface area and the small holder I made for the palm and orbital sander took up space on the table.

I figure why not mount it to the side and then provide some electrical connections to the right hand side since I am right handed.

The wiring of this is very simple and if you still do not follow it fire me off a question and I will hopefully be able to answer it.

This works very well and I managed to cut the end off the water cooler that went o the dump and made a connection with it to plug into a power source. (Saved me a few dollars on a plug)

I will get it painted to match the rest of the table. I am thinking of adding a tray for sandpaper on the other side (LHS) But for now the drawer on the bottom right houses all the sandpaper.

Note:

I have the sanding pad on top to show how it is used to help secure pieces while sanding. Someone brought this up as a possible issue and I wanted to demonstrate how it is not going to be an issue.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

AxlMyk said:


> Looks great Dan
> I'm wondering if sanded parts will be wandering around on you. I made a sanding plate for my RT and had to put sand paper on it to stop that.



I thought i would share with you the experience i had after my first time using the mobile sanding station. 

I hooked up my DC 2HP 1400 CFM and placed a 18" x 18" door made of MDF to lightly sand. I bought a remote starter for the DC and it is a great accessory and saves time running back and forth turningthe DC on and off.

The pieces do not wonder around in fact they get sucked down to the grates. If I cover them all over I have to turn the DC off to "unstick" the door to move it. Honest it sucks that hard.

All in all I am 110% satisfied how this project turned out. I like the added accessory of putting a square D box to give me 4 power outlets and a place to hold both my palm and orbital sander.

This will certainly help me because I spary in the same shop as I sand unfortunately. The MDF is holding up really well and I went with 4 pivoting casters 5" instead of 4" and I am glad I did.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Dan I could not tell looking at the pics, the blue receptacles is grounded via the green stripe wire and the other receptacle is grounded to the metal box but how is the metal box grounded back to the panel? I know that the receptacles have the metal frame that is screwed to the box but I think, I could be wrong here, you still have to have the box and all receptacles’ wired to the ground wire going to the panel. Hopefully Cassandra could chime in here on this one too. One other thing is the ground wires are supposed to be twisted and have a crimp on them not a wire nut. At least that is how we called it in the field when I did that sort of thing. 

I am pleased your sanding station works as well as it does, need to build one, one day.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Dan,

You talk about how much suction you get when you mostly cover your sanding station with wood. Obviously this is good since the wood doesn't move and where the air does move velocity is high. 

You may want to keep an eye out for some 9"x9" (or whatever is cheap/free) lightweight flooring tile to place on unused areas of your table to provide more suction around small pieces when most of the table is not covered.

It wouldn't have to be floor tile and it wouldn't have to be 9x9. In the wood mag I was reading this person used it because they had it, it was light and thin. They had about a 30"x60" tablebut when sanding something that's about 8x12 they'd cover all but about 6" on each side of the wood. He said it really increased the efficiency of dust catching.

I have no personal experience with this, but it made sense! 

Scrap cardboard or anything similar would work and easy to try for yourself. If you decide to try it, please report back on what you think; a sanding table is on my list of things I'd like to make.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> Dan,
> 
> You talk about how much suction you get when you mostly cover your sanding station with wood. Obviously this is good since the wood doesn't move and where the air does move velocity is high.
> 
> ...


If you look back at my thread I have also made solid grate pieces to afford me the luxury of doing just as you have suggestions. I made equal portions of cut grates and solid grates depending on the size of the piece sanding. I can arrange the grates into various sizes to match the size of board being sanded.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> Dan I could not tell looking at the pics, the blue receptacles is grounded via the green stripe wire and the other receptacle is grounded to the metal box but how is the metal box grounded back to the panel? I know that the receptacles have the metal frame that is screwed to the box but I think, I could be wrong here, you still have to have the box and all receptacles’ wired to the ground wire going to the panel. Hopefully Cassandra could chime in here on this one too. One other thing is the ground wires are supposed to be twisted and have a crimp on them not a wire nut. At least that is how we called it in the field when I did that sort of thing.
> 
> I am pleased your sanding station works as well as it does, need to build one, one day.



Jerry nice pick up on the wiring I will correct the minor grounding issue by connecting a ground wire to each of the outlets and then splice them together and bring it back to the ground screw as well as connecting the green ground to the ground screw. 

Once I have the panel repaired as we have discussed it will meet the code but i have not dug the trench yet to run the 10/3 wire from the main panel. Once this 10/3 wire is installed it will be properly grounded for the 110 circuit.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Just lookin out for you buddy. How much longer do you see before you are substantially complete on your build?

Added one more thing to the shop. Just so I don't forget. You may want to display your favorite colors. Hope you don't get upset over a little red white and blue. Might think about swapping colors, I would love to have a Canadian flog hanging in the shop!!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Got the wiring fixed today on the outlet on the side of the sanding station Jerry.

She is good to go now thanks.


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