# Longer crank handle for Triton



## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

I have built a router table around my Triton MFO01 router, and have started to use it.

I discovered that the crank handle for the built-in lift mechanism isn't long enough to clear the fence when using a tall (long) bit. I discovered the problem when I was routing a T-slot. I used a 1/4" bit to cut the slot, and came back with the T cutter. I did not want to move the fence for obvious reasons.

When the bit requires that the router be lowered very much, the fence interferes with the crank handle rotation.

I tried making a new one from wood, but by the time I drilled out the 7/16" dowel to accept the centering pin on the router body, the wood was so thin that it broke on first use.

Suggestions? Triton does not offer a longer crank that I can fine.


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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

A Fellow Woodworker utilizes a socket wrench handle and a long extension holding the allen screw when raising or lowering the router.

Not sure of how the Triton is set up, but it might work.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

''T'' handle Allen wrench???


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> ''T'' handle Allen wrench???


Don't use your drill motor with a hex bit in it. VOE.

Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Don't use your drill motor with a hex bit in it. VOE.
> 
> Herb


agreed... VOE...


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Ray Newman said:


> A Fellow Woodworker utilizes a socket wrench handle and a long extension holding the allen screw when raising or lowering the router.
> 
> Not sure of how the Triton is set up, but it might work.


Sounds like a craftsman router I have one that works that way. 

For the Triton, 1) remove the crank handle. 2) Drill hole in the end of a block of 5/4 X 5/4X8". 3) Insert Triton crank

Mine hangs from magnetic bar so I also attached a washer. I made from 5/4 so it was grippable


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## katabrontes (Nov 12, 2014)

I would use a length of alloy tube the same as the original and fit a handle onto the top. You could then make it as long as you like.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

add one of these to your Allen shank..


.









.
or one of these w/ a ¼'' drive ratchet.......

.


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

The Triton routers use a shaft about 1/8" dia with a pin through it. The stock wrench has a hole in the center with a slot across it.

I think Paduke's suggestion is going to be best. I'll look at taking the crank off the end of the shaft.

Thanks,


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

OK, I followed Paduke's suggestion and made this extension for the existing crank:

http://www.routerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=204969&thumb=1

Thanks to all for your suggestions.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

I would think that if the router is mounted such that the height adjustment is at about the 4:30'ish position, it would be out the way of the fence...?

This would put the gross adjustment at about 3:30'ish (right hand) with the switch at 9:00'ish (left hand).

If it's already mounted this way, then the other offered options might be needed. If it isn't, you could try it and see if you like it...

I don't use the above table adjust so my Triton is mounted diagonal (SW/NE) with gross height operated with my left hand.





CharlesWebster said:


> I have built a router table around my Triton MFO01 router, and have started to use it.
> 
> I discovered that the crank handle for the built-in lift mechanism isn't long enough to clear the fence when using a tall (long) bit. I discovered the problem when I was routing a T-slot. I used a 1/4" bit to cut the slot, and came back with the T cutter. I did not want to move the fence for obvious reasons.
> 
> ...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

..


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## CharlesWebster (Nov 24, 2015)

Nickp said:


> I would think that if the router is mounted such that the height adjustment is at about the 4:30'ish position, it would be out the way of the fence...?
> 
> This would put the gross adjustment at about 3:30'ish (right hand) with the switch at 9:00'ish (left hand).
> 
> ...


I wanted the spindle lock and power switch in front, so I mounted the router so the crank ended up on the left side of the spindle, and too close to the fence.

Because I didn't want to disassemble the router to disable the power switch-spindle lock interlock, I wanted easy access to the power switch, so I can turn it off when changing bits.

But, thanks for the suggestion.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

You may find that you can still reach under the table, as I do, and adjust with the handles....


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

James I only use my above table crank to fine tune Mostly I reach under too.

Charles instead of disabling the Triton switch you can plug into a DIY switched receptacle and replace the collet with a musclechuck. Router Forums - Router and Woodworking Discussion Community. It makes it a dream changing bits on my Triton routers.


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