# Help with routing a box from a solid block



## seaweed88 (Sep 21, 2014)

I do hope this is in the right place. If not please move to the correct spot.
My plan is to build a box approximately 4"x1"x2"with 1/4 inch sides and bottom. I am looking at a 1/4 inch sliding top using a dovetail to slide the top in and out.
I watched the video on building a template and that is done. 
I have a Porter Cable model 5372 1/2 inch router.
My first question is am I going about this the correct way or is there another solution?
What bit is the correct choice to get this done?
I am new to the router guide bushings so what do I need to pick up to get this job done?
I have a number of different hardwoods to chose from but that question will come later.
Thanks for any help!
mark


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

One of your problems will be the sliding lid. If you are making the box from a solid block you can't rout the corners out square with a round bit. You will be limited by the radius of the cutter you use. Had you considered this?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

What Chuck said, also, you might be really really unhappy if your box starts splitting after machining,,,you're potentially releasing a buildup of stresses in the wood. In other words, the grain won't be running ideally in all planes.
One of those situations where your choice of wood species might be critical. If it's just a fun thing, consider Yellow Cedar for your first try. It's pretty forgiving to carvers.
https://www.google.ca/search?q=Yell...GJYmHjAKx4YCgBA&ved=0CB4QsAQ&biw=1120&bih=537


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## seaweed88 (Sep 21, 2014)

My thought process for this is to set the dovetail up on a router table set the bit lets say 1/4 inch from the fence and run the box thru the router. Do this on both sides. Route the material on the ends between the dovetails. I think this will leave me with an opening that the top can slide thru. I could be mistaken. And now you do have me thinking... 
Thanks for the help. I really would like to tackle these sort of problems before I get started.
Thanks again
Mark


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Apparently they go for big bucks!
Wood Box


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## seaweed88 (Sep 21, 2014)

Thanks for the help. Would much rather be disappointed now than later. I am running the blocks thru the table saw now cutting a 1/4 inch slice off the bottom, cutting the inside of the box out with a jig saw and gluing the sliced piece back on as the bottom now. I thought a solid piece would be nicer. But if it is not going to work I can start rethinking this. 
Mark


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You could make an opening on one end and a dovetail groove down the sides and across the other end but the corners will be rounded. You could round the end of the lid to match but it will be a bit tricky to keep the dovetail around it uniformly. That's one issue you'll need to consider with your build, how will you do it and will it be worth the effort.


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## seaweed88 (Sep 21, 2014)

I guess I am kind of confused why the box will have rounded ends. I am only going to route the inside of the box. The outside will be cut on a table saw and ends cut on a radial arm saw.


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## seaweed88 (Sep 21, 2014)

I will drill out the four inside corners which will allow me to make a smaller radius than that of the router bit.
Thank you for the replays. I want to think this thru and I really appreciate the input.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

No prob. I was suggesting you could round the corners of the lid to match the radius of the dovetail cutter. This is a similar problem to making mortise and tenon joints. If you use drills or router bit to make the mortise the corners will be round. If you want square corners for a square tenon you have to chisel them out. Or, you can round the corners off the tenon to match the mortise.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

This gives me ideas...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

At some point are you going to share them with us?


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## seaweed88 (Sep 21, 2014)

I understand about Cleaning up the corners now. Thanks. What kind of bit do I need to get to route out the cavity? I am planning on using a drill press to remove the bulk of the material.
Also is one guide better than the next?
Thanks 
Mark


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The drill press is the right idea. Leave an 1/8 or so for the router bit. You could use a straight bit or a bowl carving bit. Guide size depends on bit size and whether you intend to plunge through it or set it below a guide it can't plunge through. Since you are hogging out most of the waste that is an option to you in this case.


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## seaweed88 (Sep 21, 2014)

I am going to use a 1/2 inch bit and the pattern will be open on top so I will not have to plunge the bit thru amend material.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> At some point are you going to share them with us?


Well, yes. If you cut out a piece of plywood as a template cut in relief (negative). Meaning you cut a piece of plywood with a square (or whatever shap you box will be) so that the workpiece will hit the inside edge of the cutout, leaving the thinknees you want to leave... For the shape of the box you are making.

Then when it is clamped down to your router table, put the bit up slightly. Router the box out to that depth, moving the workpiece all around in the template. Put the bit up a little further and repeat until you get it to depth.

One more template to router out a shallow relief for the lid (inside). The lip can be formed with a bit with a bearing. The lid would drop down over the lip.

Another piece that would be needed would be setup gauges to get your templates lined up with your bit. I'm thinking just thin plywood that fits inside the template, an has a hole in the center. Put that over the bit. Put the template over the gauge. Secure the template down. Remove the gauge.

So 2 templates and you could spit out solid wood boxes. And once you have those 2 templates worked out, they would be consistent.

So those are the ideas that I was thinking about with my last post.


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