# Shelix cutterhead upgrade for jointer



## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

I'm building a Curly Maple and Purpleheart audio rack and the front edge of the Curly Maple needs to be pristine. When I tried to run it across the straight knives of my jointer a while back it did what I expected it to do - it chipped. So I ordered a Shelix cutterhead but they were back ordered and it just came in a few days ago.

The install of these is well documented so I won't bother with that except to show a few photos, the most significant being the huge drop in sound level. I wear hearing protection at all times when equipment is running in the shop but it's still cool that the sound dropped this much. The before and after sound tests were on the same piece of Walnut, 6" wide (the capacity of my jointer) and about 11" long, rough side straight off the sawmill for both tests. I took the board from rough to smooth and recorded the highest sound for before and after.

























David


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

WOW. That is a big difference in sound levels


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Good outcome David.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Appreciate the recommendation.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I was not aware of the noise level difference, seems very significant. Wish I had those cutters myself


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Comparing decibel levels;

70	Arbitrary base of comparison. Same noise as a domestic vacuum cleaner. Upper 70s are annoyingly loud to some people

80	2 times as loud as 70 dB. Possible damage in 8 h exposure.

100	8 times as loud as 70 dB. Serious damage possible in 8 hr exposure.

A very good reduction for the neighbours, but dont take off the hearing protection while using it.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

sunnybob said:


> Comparing decibel levels;
> 
> 70	Arbitrary base of comparison. Same noise as a domestic vacuum cleaner. Upper 70s are annoyingly loud to some people
> 
> ...


Thanks for pointing this out, Bob. Most folks don't realize the difference in dB levels is exponential, not linear. 

Our shop (two-car garage) is well insulated and on the front of the house where people walk by on the sidewalk, and even though my neighbors know I do woodworking (I give them gifts :wink they have never heard any equipment running. I know because I've asked. 

The DeWalt 735 planer and my 50-year old circular saw are probably the best candidates for noise outside the shop. I need to check those but I wouldn't be surprised to find they're in the 115 dB range.

David


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Its THE most stupid scale of measurement I've ever come across. Even worse than PH tests because the measurement has to be taken at a certain distance from the sound. Move back 5 years and you get a completely different number..

A very loud motorcycle with open pipes comes in at around a 105db. But 60 is normal conversation and 25 is a whisper.

I'm lucky in that there is a 100 yards to my nearest neighbour because I cant sound insulate my single car garage workshop. I have a roll up door at each end. If I know they are home, I keep the doors closed, and thats the best they'll get.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

David I did the same with my 8" Powermatic jointer but ran into a bit of a snag and was happy that I had hired a tool repair guy to install the Shelix head. Seems my jointer is a transitional unit made during the switch from made in the USA to overseas and there was a mix of parts evidently during the transition. Seems the bearing housing was slightly different and I would have had no idea what to do if it wasn't for Greg being there, Adjustments made and tested out fantastically. And yes the noise level dropped considerably, cut quality improved even though the knives were relatively new and sharp, but the effort to pass the board over was increased somewhat and that made sense to me considering the difference in the cutters/knives. But I think I was making too aggressive a pass before and have taken the approach of making more lighter passes to achieve the flat side now days. The only complaint I had was that the Shelix sticker didn't adhere well to the jointer itself.......and maybe the cost. But I don't regret it all.


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## bfblack (May 2, 2012)

Glad you are satisfied. I did the same for my Delta DJ 20 and have not regretted it. Did you notice any change to the dust collection between standard knives and shelix? I felt like my dust collection system was slightly better with knives. I now get some chips thrown up onto the infeed/outfeed tables.


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## schmitt32linedrill (Apr 23, 2013)

So, David, did the new cutter head give a better cut? I've been thinking about getting one for my old Porter 12 inch jointer, but they're pretty pricy, and I haven't found anything with just the right shaft diameter and length. I'll probably have to do lathe work and may be change the bearings. I had converted this machine from babbet bearings to high speed ball bearings with oil lubrication several years ago. I'd consider changing to the insert head just because I don't like sending the blades out for sharpening, waiting, paying, and finally a half day of re setting the blades. 

Art S


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

bfblack said:


> Glad you are satisfied. I did the same for my Delta DJ 20 and have not regretted it. Did you notice any change to the dust collection between standard knives and shelix? I felt like my dust collection system was slightly better with knives. I now get some chips thrown up onto the infeed/outfeed tables.


Yes, actually, it's not as good now. I guess the little chips are smaller and they seem to come out from everywhere. I may do a little duct tape work on the gaps in the sheet metal to prevent that.



schmitt32linedrill said:


> So, David, did the new cutter head give a better cut?
> 
> Art S


I sharpened my own blades before so that wasn't an issue for me. The cut is very good, very smooth, but it was also very smooth with sharp knives before. I guess the advantage is now I can rotate the knives 90° and get fresh edges very quickly without doing any setup work like I had to do before.

On this figured wood the cut is glass smooth where it had chunks taken out before, so for this wood it's night and day different.

David


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

bfblack said:


> Glad you are satisfied. I did the same for my Delta DJ 20 and have not regretted it. Did you notice any change to the dust collection between standard knives and shelix? I felt like my dust collection system was slightly better with knives. I now get some chips thrown up onto the infeed/outfeed tables.


I have a Grizzly clone of the DJ 20, with a shelix head. There is a gap between the infeed table and body of the jointer. This gap allows a lot of chips to escape the DC. I have seen a few "fixes" on you tube, but since I would rather cut wood, I just sweep.


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## Straightlines (May 15, 2013)

Is it wicked for me to have jointer envy?


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Straightlines said:


> Is it wicked for me to have jointer envy?


If I could ever find an 8" Powermatic for a reasonable amount I know where you can find a 6" with new Shelix head to cure that envy... :wink:

David


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## schmitt32linedrill (Apr 23, 2013)

Bob Adams said:


> I have a Grizzly clone of the DJ 20, with a shelix head. There is a gap between the infeed table and body of the jointer. This gap allows a lot of chips to escape the DC. I have seen a few "fixes" on you tube, but since I would rather cut wood, I just sweep.


Just to compare experiences, The long soft wood chips coming out of my old 12 inch jointer (sometimes 8 to 10 inches long) can clog up the intake of of my 5 inch dust collector tubing, but the little 1/2 inch chips from my 20 inch planer never have a problem. Both are connected with 10 feet of hose to my home made dust blower made from an old farm machine's grain separator fan. 

I live in the country, so I just blow the chips out into a pile behind the shop. People sometimes come to get them for animal bedding.


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## schmitt32linedrill (Apr 23, 2013)

schmitt32linedrill said:


> So, David, did the new cutter head give a better cut? I've been thinking about getting one for my old Porter 12 inch jointer, but they're pretty pricy, and I haven't found anything with just the right shaft diameter and length. I'll probably have to do lathe work and may be change the bearings. I had converted this machine from babbet bearings to high speed ball bearings with oil lubrication several years ago. I'd consider changing to the insert head just because I don't like sending the blades out for sharpening, waiting, paying, and finally a half day of re setting the blades.
> 
> Art S


I thought I'd show a few photos of my old Porter 12 inch jointer. Please excuse the dirt and clutter, but it's a working shop and ... OK no excuses?.

The machine had babbitt bearings originally, so after re shimming a few times with only moderate success, I Sawed the babbitt holder castings off with my Sawzall, and ground the surfaces flat with a 9 inch hand held Milwaukee grinder. I had a machine shop buddy make the rectangular blocks seen in the photo, bolted them on using 2 of the holes tapped for the old bearing cap, then installed the new self aligning ball bearings. any vertical errors in mounting the bearings were easily adjusted out using the elaborate 4 corner independent height adjustment on each table. Turning the hand wheel moves all 4 wedges at once as they are all linked together.

People have guessed that it weighs nearly a ton. I made a heavy duty, very low, foot pedal lift, dolly to enable moving it around the shop.h


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## schmitt32linedrill (Apr 23, 2013)

Is there a way to rearrange my photos into the sequence I want them in?

Art


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

schmitt32linedrill said:


> Is there a way to rearrange my photos into the sequence I want them in?
> 
> Art


Try these tips, Art - 

Here are some photo posting tips if you’re taking photos with your phone or iPad – the best way for proper orientation is to shoot landscape (widescreen). Rotate your phone or iPad CCW for proper orientation. If you want your photos to be portrait then open the photo in a viewer on your computer, rotate it to the orientation you want, then save it in that orientation. It will be correct when you upload it to the servers here. If you’re shooting video please shoot widescreen like our monitors, not portrait. 

The best way to post photos in line with your text is to use Go Advanced below the Quick Reply window. If you’re starting a new thread then you’re automatically in the Advanced editor. Click on the Paper Clip on the ribbon bar and that will bring up a dialogue box where you can browse to your photos. Upload them and then put your cursor where you want a photo, hit the dropdown beside the Paper Clip, and choose the photo you want inserted. If you have several photos and just want them at the end of your text then put your cursor at the end and hit the Insert All on the dropdown list of photos.

Always post a photo rather than a link; most folks won't click on a link. 

David


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## schmitt32linedrill (Apr 23, 2013)

difalkner said:


> Try these tips, Art -
> 
> Here are some photo posting tips if you’re taking photos with your phone or iPad – the best way for proper orientation is to shoot landscape (widescreen). Rotate your phone or iPad CCW for proper orientation. If you want your photos to be portrait then open the photo in a viewer on your computer, rotate it to the orientation you want, then save it in that orientation. It will be correct when you upload it to the servers here. If you’re shooting video please shoot widescreen like our monitors, not portrait.
> 
> ...


Thanks David. I'll try that. My photos were transferred to router forums OK, just in a random sequence. 

So I can post videos here? I don't know if I can figure that out, but I've got lots of short vids about gluing up and turning my multi species bowl.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

If you do it the way I outlined then when you click the paper clip you'll see all the photos you've uploaded. From there you can insert them anywhere in your text.

You can post videos if they're on YouTube and some other services, but YouTube is easy. Just copy the URL and paste it into your reply field, the software takes care of the rest.

David


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## schmitt32linedrill (Apr 23, 2013)

difalkner said:


> I'm building a Curly Maple and Purpleheart audio rack and the front edge of the Curly Maple needs to be pristine. When I tried to run it across the straight knives of my jointer a while back it did what I expected it to do - it chipped. So I ordered a Shelix cutterhead but they were back ordered and it just came in a few days ago.
> 
> The install of these is well documented so I won't bother with that except to show a few photos, the most significant being the huge drop in sound level. I wear hearing protection at all times when equipment is running in the shop but it's still cool that the sound dropped this much. The before and after sound tests were on the same piece of Walnut, 6" wide (the capacity of my jointer) and about 11" long, rough side straight off the sawmill for both tests. I took the board from rough to smooth and recorded the highest sound for before and after.
> 
> ...


I want to know about the cut quality? Did the spiral cutter carbide insert head do a better job on the curly Maple?

Years ago we made maple (not curly maple) butcher block counter tops and custom tables, and found that hand plaining with a very sharp plane iron and holding the plane at about a 45 degree angle and working across the grain actually gave the best cut. Way too much work tho, and we eventually could afford a wide belt sander. 

All my photos are actual film camera type so hard to show here. One earlier project was a 2 inch thick, 18 inch wide island counter top that morphed into a 54 inch circular table on a pedistal at the end. Lots of hand plaining there, but I got it done and it cleaned up nicely with a portable belt sander.

Art


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

schmitt32linedrill said:


> I want to know about the cut quality? Did the spiral cutter carbide insert head do a better job on the curly Maple?
> 
> Art


Cut quality is excellent! Go to post #29 here for before and after photos.

David


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## schmitt32linedrill (Apr 23, 2013)

How do I find post # 29?

Art


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

When I open the page it's on post #21, like your message is post #24 of this thread. Look to the right side of your post and you'll see post #24 of 24 (permalink) but when you look it will be #24 of 25 because I'm posting this message.

David

Edit - you're on a mobile device so you may not see the post count; I use a computer. Just scroll down until you see the before/after photos if you don't see a post count.


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## schmitt32linedrill (Apr 23, 2013)

difalkner said:


> Cut quality is excellent! Go to post #29 here for before and after photos.
> 
> David


How will you plane the faces of the glued up panels? 

Art S


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

schmitt32linedrill said:


> How will you plane the faces of the glued up panels?
> 
> Art S


My friend has a 24" planer and a 36" wide belt sander, Art. Go to post #36 near the bottom of this page for the write up - Audiophile audio rack

David


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## schmitt32linedrill (Apr 23, 2013)

Thanks David.


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## schmitt32linedrill (Apr 23, 2013)

I'm still having trouble finding your posts # 29 and # 36. My computer shows only a total of 28 posts on this page, # 2 of 2.

Art S


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Try this, Art - Audiophile audio rack - it's the first page of the thread. On my computer, the way I'm viewing pages, the post showing photos of the planer and sander is near the bottom of page two. There are three pages and 41 posts right now. Failing that go to Show N Tell and down 5 threads to Audiophile Audio Rack to let the entire thread load on your computer.

David


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

David, now that you've had the new cutter head on have do you like the performance? I found that at max width it takes a good deal more energy to push the wood through then before....or I was just more tired, not sure which. And I lightened the cut depth as well. It's closer now to 1/32" but if the wood has any amount of cup I go deeper initially until it get flatter and the n go with a light finish passes.And this was with soft maple which isn't all that soft actually


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Forgot to attach the pictures. Sorry to see the drag and drop feature go.....but Insert Image works OK.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

sreilly said:


> Forgot to attach the pictures. Sorry to see the drag and drop feature go.....but Insert Image works OK.


Performance is excellent! Yes, it takes a bit more pressure to push a board through at full width, don't notice it at all for edges. I think that's because the cutterhead is doing its best to push the board toward the fence and because it's a constant force with the spiral. With straight knives there's a momentary pause between knives where there's nothing pushing back at you.

Drag and drop still works, btw. So does copy and paste for an image. Just drag your image to this text window and drop it where you want the photo to be located and give it a sec to finish the upload. You'll see the image lightly and then when the upload is finished it will pop into full view. Same with copy/paste. Yesterday I used the Snipping Tool to grab a portion of the screen and then pasted it into this text box - worked great!

David


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