# router springs: wanna get rid of 'em



## stef1611 (Oct 8, 2008)

Hi everyone,

I don't know if it is the right place to post this question but i would like to get rid of the springs that push the portable router up (they are annoying to set height...) and I am a bit afraid to dismantle the router for fear that I may not be able to put it back together properly. Is there an easy way that works whatever the router type?
Cheers
Steph


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Steph

Here's a link that may help to remove yours 

http://www.routerworkshop.com/mark1.html?list=ME05--

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stef1611 said:


> Hi everyone,
> 
> I don't know if it is the right place to post this question but i would like to get rid of the springs that push the portable router up (they are annoying to set height...) and I am a bit afraid to dismantle the router for fear that I may not be able to put it back together properly. Is there an easy way that works whatever the router type?
> Cheers
> Steph


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Steph,

It may help if you let us know what make and model router you are using.

The forum members have removed the springs from a number of routers to assist in installing in a router table.

Is this what you plan to do?

James


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## stef1611 (Oct 8, 2008)

THanx for your help.
I actually have several routers and they are quite cheap routers. Strangely, the one I prefer using is a elcheapo router whose brand won't ring a bell to anybody in the US, it's an Ozito (1850 Watts if I remember well).
I actually want to do both: use mounted on the table and also using freehand. Is there any problem or safety issue in removing the springs when using teh router freehand?
Cheers
Steph


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Steph,

I have an Ozito 1/4' router in my collection as well.

I don't use it all that often as I have a Triton mounted in the table and a Ryobi that I use for hand held.

Personally, I would not use a plunge router hand held without the springs, but that is just me.....

The weight of the router helps to compress the springs when used hand held so it should not be too hard to plunge to the required depth.

James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Steph., do please believe what James has just said, for plunge use the springs MUST be in place otherwise it would act like a fixed base machine loose in it's frame, very dangerous. For table use, removing the springs is the way to go. Being an Aussie, I'm well aware of Bunnings home brand, if you have difficulty removing the springs, pop it into a Bunnings store to be shown how, they advertise that they are staffed with ex-trades people! Let us know how you get on


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## stef1611 (Oct 8, 2008)

Thank you for the safety tips, I won't remove the springs for hand held routing then and will only do for the routing table, I only thought it would be more convenient for setting up the height of the bits before cutting. It's so frustrating sometimes to be almost at the right height, trying to move it half a millimeter more and ending up pushing it all the way down


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

stef1611 said:


> Thank you for the safety tips, I won't remove the springs for hand held routing then and will only do for the routing table, I only thought it would be more convenient for setting up the height of the bits before cutting. It's so frustrating sometimes to be almost at the right height, trying to move it half a millimeter more and ending up pushing it all the way down


It sounds like you aren't using the depth stops Steph. Twist drills are an accurate means depth setting.


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## stef1611 (Oct 8, 2008)

harrysin said:


> It sounds like you aren't using the depth stops Steph. Twist drills are an accurate means depth setting.


Ok, you got me there.... I just find, or at least may be because I don't do it properly, that it is not as precise as the way I usually do to set the height. I got a height gauge at carbatec and I lay it on the sole of the router and then push the sole down until it comes in contact with the height gauge. I found that this way I always have the right depth of cut, it's only a bit frustrating sometimes to push the sole and overshoot the target because the springs coil suddenly then relax the sole and overshoot the target in the other direction and so on... I guess I should try the depth setting but the routers I have are a bit on the cheap side and the gauge is not very accurate.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Steph.

It sounds like you are in need of some brass measurement bars.  

I personally don't like to use those "depth gauges". Something about metal touching the bits, just spook me, unless it's brass.


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## johncs (Oct 14, 2008)

stef1611 said:


> Ok, you got me there.... I just find, or at least may be because I don't do it properly, that it is not as precise as the way I usually do to set the height. I got a height gauge at carbatec and I lay it on the sole of the router and then push the sole down until it comes in contact with the height gauge. I found that this way I always have the right depth of cut, it's only a bit frustrating sometimes to push the sole and overshoot the target because the springs coil suddenly then relax the sole and overshoot the target in the other direction and so on... I guess I should try the depth setting but the routers I have are a bit on the cheap side and the gauge is not very accurate.


Go into Bunnings (or Carbatec) and try some others. Get someone to show you how it's done. Either your technique sucks, or the router does.


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## malb (Sep 15, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> Hi Steph.
> 
> It sounds like you are in need of some brass measurement bars.
> 
> I personally don't like to use those "depth gauges". Something about metal touching the bits, just spook me, unless it's brass.


Hamlin, Its not all bad, the Carba tec height guage is like a normal vernier height guage, except that the column, slider and height pointer are aluminium and probably softer than brass. Has a cast iron base but shouldn't be hard to keep that clear of the bit.

Steph, I googled Ozito and they list a 650W and a 1200W unit, nothing bigger so I am guessing you have the 1200. It is an odd ball unit as there is nothing that offers a fine tune for depth setting. On most machines, the depth stop proper is threaded (abt 1mm pitch) and has a quick action button for coarse adjustment, and partial turn of the stop for fine adjust. Others have a bolt on one stage of the depth turret on the base plate that can be tweeked in fine steps for fine adjustment. Unfortunately, the Ozito oddball has neither.

In this case I suggest that you measure the height between the lowest and second lowest steps on the turret, get the height about right using the second lowest step (+/1 mm), lock the depth stop in place, and then using the lowest turret step and drill bit stems or some other suitable material as shims, you should be able to get very close fairly quickly and repeatably. This is a bastardisation of Harry's suggestion of using drill bits, but the steel is only sandwiched between the depth stop and turrret, and nowhere near the bit.

Hope this helps

Mal


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## stef1611 (Oct 8, 2008)

malb said:


> Hamlin, Its not all bad, the Carba tec height guage is like a normal vernier height guage, except that the column, slider and height pointer are aluminium and probably softer than brass. Has a cast iron base but shouldn't be hard to keep that clear of the bit.
> 
> Steph, I googled Ozito and they list a 650W and a 1200W unit, nothing bigger so I am guessing you have the 1200. It is an odd ball unit as there is nothing that offers a fine tune for depth setting. On most machines, the depth stop proper is threaded (abt 1mm pitch) and has a quick action button for coarse adjustment, and partial turn of the stop for fine adjust. Others have a bolt on one stage of the depth turret on the base plate that can be tweeked in fine steps for fine adjustment. Unfortunately, the Ozito oddball has neither.
> 
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Steph, is this really what you wanted to say to Malb?

"wise guys like you."


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I wasn't going to jump on this post but it got the hair up on back of my neck 

" bastardisation = bastardize 

Australian. to harass or humiliate as part of initiation into a college or regiment. 

To lower in condition or worth; debase: hybrid works that neither preserve nor bastardize"

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## stef1611 (Oct 8, 2008)

Hey guys, 
I don't want my questions to stir some polemic among forum members; given my lack of experience in the "right and approved ways" of doing things I feel I benefit from anyone's reply to my questions and I thank Malb, JonhCS Harry and others for their reply. I think Malb wanted to say "vulgarization" which would mean in this case a adaption for dummies of the very accurate and professional technique suggested by Harry... am I right Malb? I don't think "bastardization' was intended in that way....
Anyway, I probably should get myself a descnet router and that's it: it looks like everybody is raving on the Hitachi 3612 so I may go and get myself a one month early bday present.
Am goin straight to my router and give a crack at Harry and Malb suggestion.
Harry, you who seem to like to see truckloads of progess shots, am goin to take a few on the bed am making and will post them tomorrow...
Cheers guys,
S


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## johncs (Oct 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Steph, is this really what you wanted to say to Malb?
> 
> "wise guys like you."


Nah, that was to me. I don't mind others describing me as wise tho I'd not do so, I fear I sometimes offend people without knowing why:'(


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