# Router Base Plate Templates Data Base



## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

How often do you need to make a specialized sub base for your router.

Scan it with your computer or photo copier. 
Save it as a PDF file using Brand, Model/Description.
Check it to make sure it prints it correctly (100% on 8-1/2x 11 paper).

Use it to make your new sub base with your template, upload to other members who need it, or possibly upload it here?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Might work, unless you don't have a copier or scanner that is exactly 100%. None of my printers or scanners are that precise.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I was wondering about that, Tom(?)...
I guess you could lay a machinists ruler out on your flatbed and scan/print a copy, then compare to the original.
Probably a good thing to do in any case, just for the comfort of knowing how accurate it is or isn't.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

isn't that what transfer punches are for???
use the original...


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Steps to making Router Base Plate

- Find center of base plate, align OEM base plate and mark through holes with transfer punch.

- Drill & countersink the holes,

- Drill center hole & confirm fit on router.

- Round the corners and polish the edges.

If making a base to use with PC bushings, I usually start with a blank plate that already has the center c'bored hole for the bushing. Steps then are to install cone-point setscrews in the tapped holes in the router base, center the plate to the router using the appropriate tool and mark the center of the holes by tapping on the face of the base plate to get a dimple from the setscrew. Drill the through holes for the attachment screws - I try to use button head capscrews where possible - and then add a flat bottom counterbore to recess the head of the screws. There should be a slight clearance in the through holes to allow for centering the bushing counterbore to the collet before installing the PC bushing.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

clamp the original to your new plate...
transfer punch the holes...
bore/countersink/counter bore as required...
mount it...
bore the center hole by plunging a straight bit of known dia that has plunge cut capabilities...
this will give a perfectly centered hole to the arbor to work from...
remove plate...
using a fostner sized/fitted to the bored center hole load it into your DP.....
clamp down the new plate..
change fostner bits as required enlarge the hole and/or shoulder it to accept guide bushings...


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

I wanted to make a router sub base (like photo but smaller) but to attaching it had to use other screw holes in the base itself instead of using the sub base as a pattern. I set the router base on the scanner (no sub base) and the scan gave me the hole pattern. I used that pattern to place the holes correctly into the triangle. With this triangle sub base attached I routed the corners radius of 1 1/2" yet the border straight pattern was 3/4" from the frame (rails/styles). I thought possibly other members here might find other uses for this information as I did. I realize that it is easy enough to duplicate something you already have, but I had to think outside the box to make my tiny triangle work. I think someone may find this useful info that's all.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Gary; I think you directly addressed the issue of whether or not a scanner and printer will give you a dead accurate copy of the item being copied. I take it your screw holes lined up perfectly?


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Gary; I think you directly addressed the issue of whether or not a scanner and printer will give you a dead accurate copy of the item being copied. I take it your screw holes lined up perfectly?


Yes


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