# Past due change



## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Merry Christmas, hopping all find this day to be the day you hoped it would be, have great fun with family and friends.

Now to the subject at hand!! This long over due, so goodbye to the old router top (pic 1)and hello to the new!!! Now what to build the new out of? I have a piece of Baltic Birch that is looking for a home, but is that best? There is MDF and to be sure it has some strong advantages and support, what do others think? I lean toward the Birch because I have it on hand, but MDF will never warp, unless it gets wet. What about a laminate surface vs melamine vs just a good finish on it? 

Then there is my fence, I have never liked that so I will strip it down to the aluminum frame and start over. I am open to suggestions, hopping I will receive some.


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## Marshall Border (Jan 17, 2011)

Jerry I would go with what you have on hand first , even though I like the MDF better - I made my sanding and assembly table with MDF sandwiched - screwed and glued with two thichness of 3/4" material and it's been proforming great for over 4 years now .......MB


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

That is what I decided to do, use the BB, I figured it is here with nothing pressing to do so I will give put it to good use. I am going with a new insert as the old one is also warped. Thought about an aluminum one but have settled on the resin as before. The still unanswered question is the fence and what to do there.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I decided to practice routing out the insert plate opening being I have only done 2 including the practice one today. The first time I did one I didn't have a guide bushing as I did this time.

Pic 1 using double sided sticky tape I located where I wanted the router and placed the guides.
Pic 2 (These shots are static) Routered the 1/2 x 1/4 ledge for the insert plate lip to rest on
Pic 3 Using a Jigsaw I cut out the rest if the opening.
Pic 4 Test fitting the insert that I have, good fit.

Later I will post my plan to make a practice run into something practical.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Good job, Jerry.

Practice makes perfect.......


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Jerry, you have to decide which type of fence you want to use. It doesn't get any easier than using an Oak Park type fence; just clamp and rout. If you want a taller fence sliding faces are a nice feature. The design for the fence in ShopNotes #1 works well. Many people like a fence with an aluminum angle... they all work.


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Jerry I see the "tail" you have fastened to the sole plate on your router in picture #2, how does that work out for you during the first few inches of your plough cut with the router?


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Jack Wilson said:


> Jerry I see the "tail" you have fastened to the sole plate on your router in picture #2, how does that work out for you during the first few inches of your plough cut with the router?


It worked fine, just wanted to be sure the router stayed level. Needed to rotate the router at the end of each cut. I've never seen anyone do that but it worked for me in this application.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

After seeing how well the cut out went I decided to find a way to use the practice top. The main problem was the practice material is only 1/2" thick MDF far too thin to use for a router top. Rather than add a bunch if extra layers of MDF or plywood I went to the oak small piece pile and came up with enough to border the MDF Pic 1. Pic 2 is a dry glue-up run (I made many dry runs just to set the clamps and be sure it worked) fitting the edge pieces. Pic 3 checking corner fit. Pic 4 gluing up the edge pieces. Pic 5-7 gluing up the framework under the top to support the router. Pic 8the almost finished product with the Ridgid router in place. Pic 9 I plan to make a simple fence out of a couple pieces of oak. Pic 10 I plan to mount my DeWALT 618 in the old insert as a dedicated, till needed else ware, router for this portable top. Pic 11 next is to finish my main router table. (Still wondering if I should just finish and wax the BB or use P-lam?)

I plan to use this top whenever I need a table out of the shop, I have a reinforcing piece Pic 12 that I will be able to clamp on or run screws through to a work surface to hold the portable top in place.

This was a totally unplanned project thought out as I went. I find these unplanned projects to be the most fun.


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## jamesamd (Jul 21, 2011)

Coming along nicely,Jerry:yes2:
Jim


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Jerry, I would run either an 1/8" round over bit or a chamfering bit around those sharp edges. Get a can of Watco Danish oil or some wiping polyurethane to seal and protect the hardwood.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I need to sand the paint off thr MDF, yes it is MDF on the top!! When all this started it was just for practie so----? Now it has turned into a practical. The plan is to sand it down, roundover the edges and apply several coats of finish.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Don't just love it when a prototype actually works out so well, you just go with it.. 

nice job Jerry, looking great!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Yes I do, I am working on the fence now, this has gone from a "slap two boards together" to a ???, not sure where it will end up so I'm getting the camera out to try and document it. Sure is fun to create as you go, no plans just the imagination and a shop full of tools.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Well the fence is near complete. Started out with two boards Pic 1 but realized I needed more, dust control for one so just make a hole Pic 2, add a shop vac Pic 3 and presto fence---well not quite. The shop vac needed to be set back from the face of the fence and angled down to best capture the dust Pic 4. The way I did this was to fabricate a piece to hold the hose at an angle facing down toward the work. First I needed to find the angle Pic 5 for a piece to fit at the rear of the fence, next drill a hole with a 2 3/8 forestner bit Pic 6 to hold the vac hose, then cut the two angles on the TS Pic 7&8. Pic 9 there was a hole at the ends so I cut a piece to fill this in and glued it up, Pic15.

The fence still needed one more thing, adjustability. I decided to use two adjustable wings. I used what I have on hand, some BB, "T" track and hardware. Pic 11-14. Pic 16-19 are of the almost finished product, need to clean up a messy glue job, add a 1/4" face to wings (seems the 1/2 screws to hold the "T" track are just through. I also need to come up with a better way to adjust the fence front to back, probably "T" track in the work surface, next issue, I'm tired.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

As usual, you are making great progress with this project, Jerry.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

The ironic part is that this was never a project, it was practice for a project redoing my router table top which BTW is still to be done!! I will say however that I am enjoying this "non-project"!!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Finished the new unplaned router table and cut in the insert for the "new" old table see Pic 1,6 & 7 The final shots on new portable table Pic 2-5, gave John Mark first shot at the new one.

The cost for the portable table so far is 0, had it all on hand. I am usinf a DeWALT 618 I got thrown in with the Akeda, had all else. I will be costing me 36.00 for 1/2" collet that I didn't get with the 618.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

"it was practice for a project ' ------the story of my wood working life...LOL


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Well this time practice will have a solid application in my shop and spin off into other improvements like at the drill press.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

*Substantially cpmplete*

All that is left is 2 pieces of oak trim to complete the large table, the portable table hangs on the back of large table, Pics 1-4. I am still not decided on the Miter slot, but that will be easy to add.

Next will be the Drill press top, Pics 5-8, I need to have this done by February 1st.


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