# Ridgid universal PC-style brass bushing set



## hempy (Aug 5, 2009)

I just picked up a brass bushing set from Home Depot made by Ridgid. I can't seem to find any mention of it anywhere on the web or Ridgid's site, or even on this forum, but I was wondering if anyone had any experience with it.

The first one I got seemed like it had been lightly used, with tiny dings and scratches in the surface. The threads also felt a bit rough, so I exchanged it. The new one is a bit better. Maybe I am just being picky or something. They advertise a lifetime guarantee, so I was thinking maybe they send out refurbished sets or something, as it was factory sealed.

The set fit my Craftsman base, without having to use their drill-to-fit universal black bases. I like clear bases much more, especially when working with something like a template. 

The set was $40, which is the price of a good Porter Cable set online, I know, but I had a bunch of store credit, and a coupon, and my project needed them now, so I figured I would try them out. If I have any issues, I have 90 days to bring them back I suppose.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ryan

Most brass guides are made the same way, but the 40.oo price tag is a bit high 

You should have a HF store in your town...or on line..
- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ryan
> 
> Most brass guides are made the same way, but the 40.oo price tag is a bit high
> 
> ...


I thought most were all the same but I've got brass bushings from Hartville Tool and a set from Eagle America and they have different threads, locknuts aren't interchangeable.:bad: 
Course, I didn't really expect the kit I got with the router to fit, they were steel.:sad:


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## hempy (Aug 5, 2009)

I wound up returning the original set to try a second that they had in stock before going to Harbor Freight. The second set was pretty much the same way, with some threads that stuck, while others were too loose. They also had a large number of scratches and such.

I finally made it out to Harbor Freight yesterday, and picked up the $12 set that Bob mentioned. The quality is actually much better. The threads are all clean and turn very smoothly. They also have the look of freshly-milled metal, and they don't look like they've been shaken up in a bad of silverware.

These also seem to be solid brass, unlike the Rigid ones that are only plated. And I'm not een sure they were brass. 

The new set also fits well, although a little on the snug side. It takes a good bit of torque to force them into the rabbet. No centering cone, but a careful eye will suffice. And since I rarely use the static base (I have 2 now - one in the table) I can leave the sub base centered and simply use that one for bushing work.

Thanks for the suggestion Bob! I'll definitely be bringing these other ones back.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Most are 1/4-20 threads and some are 1/4-28 threads but they can be 1/4-24 also..all over the ball part...I do like the 1/4-28 the best they hold just a little bit better..the 1/4-20 are cut a little bit deeper the norm..on the root diam.and are a 2A fit the norm...and yes Harry, brass is best  

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jschaben said:


> I thought most were all the same but I've got brass bushings from Hartville Tool and a set from Eagle America and they have different threads, locknuts aren't interchangeable.:bad:
> Course, I didn't really expect the kit I got with the router to fit, they were steel.:sad:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Your Welcome Ryan

You Can't have to many brass guides 

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hempy said:


> I wound up returning the original set to try a second that they had in stock before going to Harbor Freight. The second set was pretty much the same way, with some threads that stuck, while others were too loose. They also had a large number of scratches and such.
> 
> I finally made it out to Harbor Freight yesterday, and picked up the $12 set that Bob mentioned. The quality is actually much better. The threads are all clean and turn very smoothly. They also have the look of freshly-milled metal, and they don't look like they've been shaken up in a bad of silverware.
> 
> ...


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi John
> 
> Most are 1/4-20 threads and some are 1/4-28 threads but they can be 1/4-24 also..all over the ball part...I do like the 1/4-28 the best they hold just a little bit better..the 1/4-20 are cut a little bit deeper the norm..on the root diam.and are a 2A fit the norm...and yes Harry, brass is best
> ========


:haha: I respectfully decline the invitation to join the brass/steel debate. I ordered the spring washers from MLCS :haha:

I have a steel set that came with a router, a brass set from PriceCutter and a couple of 1", Whiteside I think, from Hartville Tool, and a 7/16" from Rockler that came with their DT jig. None of the brass fit the steel and Price Cutter only plays with the Price Cutter, not the Rockler or Whiteside. I bought the Price Cutter primarily for the barrel length (.201) for only about twice what a set from HF costs but I didn't have to do any whittling on them. 
I also have a set of brass and a set of nylon ones from Milescraft. One of these days when I get bored I am thinking of chopping the barrels down on the nylon ones. 
I'm also toying with offset rings for them but that's another thread and not likely in the near future


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

hempy said:


> These also seem to be solid brass, unlike the Rigid ones that are only plated. And I'm not een sure they were brass.


I saw those in Home Depot awhile back. Even though they were way over priced, I was happy to see that they at least had some. But now to find out that they are only disguised as brass, is pretty disappointing.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

The rubber O-ring works well,,that you can get from ACE hardware or most auto parts store or the spring washer from bearing outlet..many call them waiver washers,,,and only cost pennies about 15 cents each.

If you use the steel guides it's good ldea to use them all the time..most are steel that have been zinc plated and that acts like a lube.. zinc on zinc, makes it slick..

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jschaben said:


> :haha: I respectfully decline the invitation to join the brass/steel debate. I ordered the spring washers from MLCS :haha:
> 
> I have a steel set that came with a router, a brass set from PriceCutter and a couple of 1", Whiteside I think, from Hartville Tool, and a 7/16" from Rockler that came with their DT jig. None of the brass fit the steel and Price Cutter only plays with the Price Cutter, not the Rockler or Whiteside. I bought the Price Cutter primarily for the barrel length (.201) for only about twice what a set from HF costs but I didn't have to do any whittling on them.
> I also have a set of brass and a set of nylon ones from Milescraft. One of these days when I get bored I am thinking of chopping the barrels down on the nylon ones.
> I'm also toying with offset rings for them but that's another thread and not likely in the near future


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

hempy said:


> I wound up returning the original set to try a second that they had in stock before going to Harbor Freight. The second set was pretty much the same way, with some threads that stuck, while others were too loose. They also had a large number of scratches and such.
> 
> I finally made it out to Harbor Freight yesterday, and picked up the $12 set that Bob mentioned. The quality is actually much better. The threads are all clean and turn very smoothly. They also have the look of freshly-milled metal, and they don't look like they've been shaken up in a bad of silverware.
> 
> ...


You don't need a "centering cone". All you need to do is put the 1/4" ID bushing on the base plate, loosen the screws on the base plate, chuck up a 1/4" drill bit in the router through the bushing, tighten the base plate screws and remove the drill bit. TA DA! ... You now have a centered base plate. And NO a careful eye will not suffice if you want your project to look decent when finished.


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## tcozadoh (Oct 2, 2009)

Bob
In the HF Bushing guide set, what is the adapter used for? Their manual doesn't say!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tom

Some of the routers come with the cheap funky steel guides, you can put the adapter in place and use the good brass guides and you can switch them out easy with the adapter in place, i.e. inlay kit.... see below..


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tcozadoh said:


> Bob
> In the HF Bushing guide set, what is the adapter used for? Their manual doesn't say!


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## jeeper (Jan 9, 2011)

Well, I have just managed to get one of the Ridgid kits today. And of course I didnt see this thread before getting it. So far everything seems to feel smooth with the threads. But now I know to go and check out HF. I know that I had heard of using these alot. I figured I had better get a kit for when I need it. Guess I jumped the gun..


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

I just bought the ridgid kit with base plates to go on my new PC router (which came with a cheapo plastic base with a large opening not setup for guides) The base plates ( two of em!) are very nice, a bit oversize and the guides fit very snuggly. The guide bushings are coated steel and were coverde with fingerprints! But I think they are much better quality then the old PC guied bushing set I have.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

*Metric brass guides?*

I just bought the depicted Makita template adapter to put into my 3612. I have one fantastic 40mm home made guide bushing that Harry kindly gave to me - however that's the only one I have, and have needed other sizes - hence purchasing the adapter. Now I just need to buy a set of METRIC guide bushings - however have struggled to locate any.

Any hints? I'm in New Zealand, however can get hold of items in the US via my sister-in-law who lives there - and my wife is going to the US next week so she could bring them back if I'm quick!

Matthew


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

It's not metric but it will do the job for you, note the adapter that comes with it for 20 bucks.
The one you bought and the one below take on the PC type guides ( 1 3/16" ,not setup for metric) 

10 Piece Router Template Guide Set

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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Thanks Bob but I try to stay well away from imperial, if at all possible. It just doesn't make any sense. Almost like using a Windows computer when there are Macs to be had.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi


hahahahahahaha I know you can get the funky metric Trend guides on your side on the pond 
But like Macs and Windows ,most good things are made for Windows..

Amazon.com: Trend INLAY/KIT/A Carbide Spiral Bit and Bushing Kit for Inlay Templates: Home Improvement

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matt1710 said:


> Thanks Bob but I try to stay well away from imperial, if at all possible. It just doesn't make any sense. Almost like using a Windows computer when there are Macs to be had.


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Isn't that a 5/16" bushing (with extra option)?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

with extra option = ???????

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matt1710 said:


> Isn't that a 5/16" bushing (with extra option)?


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

I think it has an optional bushing that can be placed on to create a great offset.

"Most good things are made for Windows" - like Microsoft products (including that world renowned operating system!!) and viruses? Don't get me started on the Mac vs Windoze thing! How do you shutdown your computer again? Oh yeah, via a button labelled 'Start'. That's not backwards is it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

It's not a optional bushing item for that guide, it's must have item for inlay work..
http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=41779&cat=1,43000,51208
http://www.harborfreight.com/solid-brass-router-inlay-kit-99552.html
http://store.workshopsupply.com/cat....html?osCsid=2f7e5b82b7b08ce6e540e1b2c628cbfc

I will say I'm not a big fan of the small router bit that many use on the inlay kits I use a 3/8" router bit..just quicker to remove the stock..

" shutdown " I just turn off the power switch  I don't play the MS game.. the new OS has saved all my setting long b/4 I power down..


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matt1710 said:


> I think it has an optional bushing that can be placed on to create a great offset.
> 
> "Most good things are made for Windows" - like Microsoft products (including that world renowned operating system!!) and viruses? Don't get me started on the Mac vs Windoze thing! How do you shutdown your computer again? Oh yeah, via a button labelled 'Start'. That's not backwards is it.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

matt1710 said:


> I just bought the depicted Makita template adapter to put into my 3612. I have one fantastic 40mm home made guide bushing that Harry kindly gave to me - however that's the only one I have, and have needed other sizes - hence purchasing the adapter. Now I just need to buy a set of METRIC guide bushings - however have struggled to locate any.
> 
> Any hints? I'm in New Zealand, however can get hold of items in the US via my sister-in-law who lives there - and my wife is going to the US next week so she could bring them back if I'm quick!
> 
> Matthew


Hi Matt,

I have attached shots of the Makita guide bushings FYI.

They are pressed steel and clip into the base,


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi James

Thanks for that. Will see which is the most economical way to go - that style of guide bushing or brass PC style - in metric - if I can get them!! Surely better value is a set of brass PC style ones - many more size options. I think the kit from Makita, with only 4 bushings, is expensive at A$92.

Does anyone other than Makita (and Harry!) make this style - do you know? Non-Makita ones would surely be cheaper.

Matthew


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Matt

I doubt that you will be able to find metric brass bushing guides.

All the ones I have found, in Australia and the US, are imperial only.

What I would suggest, since you have a friend in the US to accept the postage is to get the Oak Park 7" base plate and a set of the Oak Park brass guides.

I have this set up also for my Makita3612c as well as the Makita set.


Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue.


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

RustyW said:


> I saw those in Home Depot awhile back. Even though they were way over priced, I was happy to see that they at least had some. But now to find out that they are only disguised as brass, is pretty disappointing.


They are not disguised as brass they are listed as TiN coated steel. And I like the oversized base for use with my milescraft sign kit.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

matt1710 said:


> Hi James
> 
> Thanks for that. Will see which is the most economical way to go - that style of guide bushing or brass PC style - in metric - if I can get them!! Surely better value is a set of brass PC style ones - many more size options. I think the kit from Makita, with only 4 bushings, is expensive at A$92.
> 
> ...


Matt., I've never made a secret of the fact that I have a very low opinion of the three piece template guides, they are potentially dangerous, many members including myself have had close calls with them flying apart, with or without "shakeproof" washers. For a young man like yourself with many years of routing ahead of you, save up if necessary and purchase the correct guides to keep your 40mm one company!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

The key is to use the RIGHT base plate for the router,with the right base plate you can pop the guide in or out ( 1/4 turn type) and get it tight than they will not come free when you use them and very easy to switch out the BRASS guides and they are always are on dead center..no tools needed like a screw driver to switch the guides out..

Amazon.com: Milescraft 1211 Base Plate Metal-Nose Bushing Set for Routers: Home Improvement

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harrysin said:


> Matt., I've never made a secret of the fact that I have a very low opinion of the three piece template guides, they are potentially dangerous, many members including myself have had close calls with them flying apart, with or without "shakeproof" washers. For a young man like yourself with many years of routing ahead of you, save up if necessary and purchase the correct guides to keep your 40mm one company!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Matthew, there is no question that using metric bushings makes the math easier. When TemplateTom joined the forums many members were excited by his ideas but the excitement faded when we discovered that we could not get metric guide bushings in the U.S. or Canada. BJ made metric adaptor collars to attach to SAE bushings and posted photos for other members to follow but few did. I contacted several manufacturers about producing metric bushings but nobody saw it as profitable enough to pursue. I am going to try again, perhaps now that the forum has almost 59K members the companies will listen more closely. Considering your location, product availability and shipping costs I think the best course of action for you is to follow Harry's advice.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> The key is to use the RIGHT base plate for the router,with the right base plate you can pop the guide in or out ( 1/4 turn type) and get it tight than they will not come free when you use them and very easy to switch out the BRASS guides and they are always are on dead center..no tools needed like a screw driver to switch the guides out..
> 
> ...


We do agree on most things Bob but this is one on which we'll have to agree to disagree!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

hahahahahahaha I can live with that mate LOL ....

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harrysin said:


> We do agree on most things Bob but this is one on which we'll have to agree to disagree!


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

harrysin said:


> For a young man like yourself with many years of routing ahead of you, save up if necessary and purchase the correct guides to keep your 40mm one company!


I think you're on the money there Harry - that's what I plan to do. Will return the unused Makita template guide adapter (purchased on Amazon) and will get some Makita ones like my brilliant 40mm one. I don't want the imperial devil to start creeping in - who knows where it'll end up!! I already hate having to deal with 1/2" bits and my 40mm collar : (40-12.7)/2=13.65mm. Yeah, that's really easy to measure!!


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

hempy said:


> These also seem to be solid brass, unlike the Rigid ones that are only plated. And I'm not een sure they were brass.


I have the Ridgid set which incidentally comes with 2 blank router bases and drilling templates that can be adapted to almost any router. After buying them I discovered the guides fit the Ridgid trim router bases also. For some odd reason they screw together very easily and center themselves in the base 99.9% of the time also.
As far as the question about the material they are constructed from it states clearly on the package they are made from steel and coated with titanium. What I don't understand is the quibbling over guide bushing material. Does it really make a difference what material they are constructed from as long as they do the intended job?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

It's big deal what they are made out of, the last thing you want is some steel floating around your router bit, they do get free some times, brass will lock up with two fingers unlike steel plated..


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Ken Bee said:


> I have the Ridgid set which incidentally comes with 2 blank router bases and drilling templates that can be adapted to almost any router. After buying them I discovered the guides fit the Ridgid trim router bases also. For some odd reason they screw together very easily and center themselves in the base 99.9% of the time also.
> As far as the question about the material they are constructed from it states clearly on the package they are made from steel and coated with titanium. What I don't understand is the quibbling over guide bushing material. Does it really make a difference what material they are constructed from as long as they do the intended job?


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

Not all brass apparently. I have a set of Lee Valley 1-3/4" inserts. The 1/2" insert needs to be retightened consistently after each pass.

I also have a set of steel guides which came with a cheap Mastercraft router. I had to turn some of them down so they could be used with 1/4' templates. None that I have used so far show any sign of losening with use.

Having said that when KMS had a sale on Dimar 1-3/16" brass guides for $25 I snapped them up


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI crquack

Easy fix, just drill and tap a hole in the ring nut, and screw in a 6-32 Nylon screw to put in a locking device in the ring nut..for the bigger Lee Valley type, they make a spring washer for the PC type guides...

You can see them in my uploads 

Hey crquack

Here's a snapshot of the rings, like they say put up or put a sock in it, I guess I can take the sock out of my mouth now..one picture is worth a 1000 words they say.it's a very easy way to keep the ring form coming free, the nylon just puts that little drag on the brass ring.., note ,,,,if you do it don't put it in to far in the ring you still want it to screw it on easy.. 

cost of the nylon screw, a .03 cent fix..

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crquack said:


> Not all brass apparently. I have a set of Lee Valley 1-3/4"
> inserts. The 1/2" insert needs to be retightened consistently after each pass.
> 
> I also have a set of steel guides which came with a cheap Mastercraft router. I had to turn some of them down so they could be used with 1/4' templates. None that I have used so far show any sign of losening with use.
> ...


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ken
> 
> It's big deal what they are made out of, the last thing you want is some steel floating around your router bit, they do get free some times, brass will lock up with two fingers unlike steel plated..
> 
> ...


Bob, first of all I am not disputing your reasoning or questioning your extensive woodworking expertise and tool usage, but brass is metal also and would have essentially the same effect as steel with contact to a router bit. As far as the steel Ridgid guides it is strange that when I tighten them finger tight I have to use pliers to get them apart after use. Another reason for this could be because of the titanium plating and the base plate I use exclusively for the guides has a metal insert built into the base plate the guides fit into as opposed to just sandwiching the base plate so to speak. I like the way it works so well I am going to do the same thing to my trim router. Cut a new 3/8 thick Lexan base plate and adapt the metal insert from another standard size base plate for the trim router.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> Bob, first of all I am not disputing your reasoning or questioning your extensive woodworking expertise and tool usage, but brass is metal also and would have essentially the same effect as steel with contact to a router bit.


Hi Ken,
Even though both types of inserts are made of metal (Brass & Steel) there is a difference when it comes loose & comes in contact with the bit. I do use both types but mostly prefer the steel guides. 

There are two groups of metals; ferrous and non-ferrous. Ferrous metals contain iron, for example carbon steel, stainless steel & wrought iron. Non-ferrous metals don't contain iron, for example aluminium, brass, copper & titanium. You can also get non-ferrous metals as alloys eg, brass is an alloy of copper & zinc. 

You can cut non-ferrous metals on you miter saw but because of the iron content you can't cut ferrous metals with the same blade used for cutting wood. When a carbide tipped bit comes in contact with the softer brass guide it will just nick & may damage the guide where the steel guide could chip the carbide bit & send pieces flying.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

Brass and steel are Not the same, the brass is soft so to speak, one is non ferrous and the other is not..
The cutter on the router bit will chip/break/crack if it hits steel but if it hits brass it will not the norm..it just takes one little chip and the bit is junk...

" titanium plating " is a lube so to speak most are zinc plated, I not to sure how many I have but it must be over 100... and I only have 4 or 5 steel ones..to me it's not worth the chance or the cost of the router bit to use steel ones...
That said I don't why they don't make them out of Alum. maybe because Alum.will gull unlike brass...

You should not every need to use a pair of pliers to get the ring nuts free the brass will do all the work for you...it gives a little bit unlike steel..that's why they use brass on most of the better pipe fittings  shelf locking so to speak. 

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Ken Bee said:


> Bob, first of all I am not disputing your reasoning or questioning your extensive woodworking expertise and tool usage, but brass is metal also and would have essentially the same effect as steel with contact to a router bit. As far as the steel Ridgid guides it is strange that when I tighten them finger tight I have to use pliers to get them apart after use. Another reason for this could be because of the titanium plating and the base plate I use exclusively for the guides has a metal insert built into the base plate the guides fit into as opposed to just sandwiching the base plate so to speak. I like the way it works so well I am going to do the same thing to my trim router. Cut a new 3/8 thick Lexan base plate and adapt the metal insert from another standard size base plate for the trim router.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Brass will grab and hold on brass better than steel on steel. Hand tightening should be all you need but if you have a problem with your grip strength you can use cannon plug pliers to assist you. The replaceable soft jaw faces will not damage your bushings.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Mike said:


> Brass will grab and hold on brass better than steel on steel. Hand tightening should be all you need but if you have a problem with your grip strength you can use cannon plug pliers to assist you. The replaceable soft jaw faces will not damage your bushings.


Hi Mike,
Where did you find those? They look useful.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Mike said:


> Brass will grab and hold on brass better than steel on steel. Hand tightening should be all you need but if you have a problem with your grip strength you can use cannon plug pliers to assist you. The replaceable soft jaw faces will not damage your bushings.


Thanks for speaking up Mark. I have to concur with you. Everyone can take a look at many of the Router Workshop videos and you'll find they say the same thing. They use brass exclusively in spite of the fact they could have developed steel bushings. You'll also find the 1 1/2" bushings far more versatile than the 1 3/16" ones.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I hate to have to keep saying it but three piece guides, irrespective of the material from which they are made are POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS, I and other members have related stories of the three piece ones flying apart, single piece ones whether made from Brass, Steel or Plastic and securely fitted like Makita, Hitachi, Bosch etc are, in my humble opinion, the way to go.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

It's been hard to goat you into a thread but I knew if I posted the brass ring you would jump in LOL LOL 

By the way it's hard to find the ones you like in the states, we in the states do it the easy and quick way..


Just as a side note,,,I'm not a big fan of the Triton router but a real plus for it they supply a full set of the funny guides all in the SAE sizes and adapters so they can be used them in other routers as well.
That's if you like to use that type but I can't tell you where you can buy the set.

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harrysin said:


> I hate to have to keep saying it but three piece guides, irrespective of the material from which they are made are POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS, I and other members have related stories of the three piece ones flying apart, single piece ones whether made from Brass, Steel or Plastic and securely fitted like Makita, Hitachi, Bosch etc are, in my humble opinion, the way to go.


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