# First table saw



## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

I’m just getting into woodworking and I want a decent saw that is not too expensive I have been talking to a guy on Craig’s list with a delta 10” 62-042 that looks like it is in great condition and comes with a frued dado set. Is this a decent deal ? There is also a Sears and Roebuck that I am looking at but can only make out partial model numbers .29930


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## Old_Tom (Jun 28, 2019)

Hi N/a. Would be helpful to know how much he is asking for the Delta to make a guess on how good a deal it is.
I'm sure someone on this forum will help you.


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Old_Tom said:


> Hi N/a. Would be helpful to know how much he is asking for the Delta to make a guess on how good a deal it is.
> I'm sure someone on this forum will help you.




Sorry thought I put it in my OP 125


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum.


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Thank you I was looking I believe that the craftsman is the 113.29920 for right around the same price as the delta


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

skip the sears at any price...
are you sure about the model # for the delta???
I'm pretty sure the model # you give is for the motor and not the saw...


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Yea that was off of the motor it won’t let me post the link


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Here is a picture of the delta


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Rx88 said:


> Yea that was off of the motor it won’t let me post the link
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


hurry up and get your 10 posts or post a screen shot...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

what part of the country/state are you in N/A???


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Stick486 said:


> hurry up and get your 10 posts or post a screen shot...








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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Stick486 said:


> hurry up and get your 10 posts or post a screen shot...




I posted one with a picture but it has to get approved by a moderator before it posts so I will have one soon


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Stick486 said:


> what part of the country/state are you in N/A???




Northern Illinois northwest suburbs of Chicago 


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Almost to 10 


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Just 2 more


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

And this is 10


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Stick486 said:


> hurry up and get your 10 posts or post a screen shot...




Delta 10" contractors table saw
https://chicago.craigslist.org/nwc/tls/d/elgin-delta-10-contractors-table-saw/6955430142.html


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Hi I agree on the sears and craftsman stuff. No parts for them. I had a Delta which had the motor attached to the arbor, a direct drive. There are other models that have a motor hanging off the back, which have more power than the first. I used the first one, the direct drive for several years. I was only 1hp, so I would try to cut reall thick hardwood with it, but fed right and with a really good Freud glue line rip/crosscut combo glade, produced good results. 

Whatever you get, you need to get a couple of items right away. A Gripper ($60) to push material and through the blade while keeping your hands away from danger. A Wixey digital angle gauge to make sure you blade is set at exactly 90, 45 or any other angle you wnat, ($39). the new one uses AAA batteries, the old ones didn't. Stick likes another one, but I've been happy with the Wixey. Read about and learn to make zero clearance inserts, which will allow you to make very clean cuts. 

If you can see a picture of the saw on your computer screen, you can hit prtscr and put a picture in your memory. I use free software called Irfanview to paste that screen capture image into a window and you can save it on your hard drive and post it. It will really help to identify it. I bought my delta in a closeout at Lowes when it shut down. Cost $300 brand new in the box. My son in law has it now and it's working great. 

If it has the motor hanging off the back, then it's a real contractor's saw, has a little more power and can cut a bit thicker chunk of wood than the direct drive model. You can change the supplied conventional drive belt for a link belt that will make it run smoother, but that's an option any time.

Without seeing the saw, I don't think any one of use feels comfortable making a buy recommendation. But if you decide to get it, run it and listen for any odd sounds. Move the crank handles to make sure it travels lock to lock fairly smoothly. Look inside to see if there's a lot of sawdust coating internal parts. That will need cleaning out and relubed using a dry lube. 

Check Amazon for used books on tuning up your table saw and table saw use and technique. You can also watch YouTube videos, although many show some techniques that aren't really safe. If there is a blade guard you can use, use it whenever you can. 

Blades. I am a big fan of the Freud Glue Line, full kerf glade. That means the blade is about 1/8th inch thick with brazed on teeth that cut an extremely smooth edge, and also cuts a channel that is flat on the bottom. You can get thin kerf blades that reduce waste slightly, but they may flex when you're trying to cut at an angle--as in a picture frame.--and the corners won't fit properly.

Let us know what you decide to do. We all enjoy helping someone get started at this great hobby.


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## gdonham1 (Oct 31, 2011)

I looked at the craigslist post and for $150.00 it is not bad, IF it works. The tablesaw is the heart of most woodworking shops. If the saw works it is worth $150.00 to get started. IF the cast iron top only has surface rust it will work fine. If there is deep pitting wait for another saw. The fence looks like a T-square type and the fence is very important. So if your budget can handle it go for it. You cannot get a new one for any where near that price with the amount of stuff you are getting. The Dado is around $100.00 new.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

you said 125 for that......
if it runs.. go for it...

the griper...
make your own...
you'll want other safety gizmos..
the Wixey... I had one and it's replacement..
I moved to the head of the class...
Tilt Box II Digital Inclinometer for Tool Setting - Lee Valley Tools
better yet..
https://www.engineersupply.com/drafting-triangles.aspx

you'll want to tune that saw up...
you'll want to learn your blades...
and I'm partial to Freud blades..
you'll want to do maint...
link belts are a fix to/for a symptom, not the fix to the problem...

and don't believe that pallets are free wood...
*
BTW...*
welcome to the forums N/A.. (that is what you listed for a 1st name)...


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Welcome to the forum! Add your first name to your profile to clear the N/a in the side panel and so we'll know what to call you.

David


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

That’s great I just wanted to know that what I was getting was decent before I pulled the trigger on it thank you everyone for being so helpful I appreciate All those links I’ll let you guys know how it goes later today


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

As Stick advises, stay away from the Craftsman if possible. I had a few in my early days and they weren't very good. What's considered a good price or better what's your budget? I wouldn't suggest spending the least or you'll likely regret the choice soon afterwards. Depending on what you intend to build usually the table saw becomes the central tool in the shop and is worthy of being as good as you can afford. Thing's to also keep in mind is table size, although you can build a table to add on or even surround the saw, the quality of the fence, and HP of the motor. Some can be wired 120/220 or only one or the other so you need to be sure you have power to connect. Also beware of 3 phase tools which are usually larger commercial units and although not bad to have you'll need a phase generator to run on household voltages. Yet another expense but of it's a great deal, may be worth it.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

That Delta saw is a 34-4** model, quite likely the 34-444 and it's a real bargain at $150 (if it runs). The Unifence alone is worth more than he's asking for the whole saw. Everything else is gravy. 

The only thing that I don't like about these saws is the saw dust control - there isn't any. Most of it will land on that shelf. The rest will go everywhere. There is an after market bag that attaches to the legs where the shelf is located, to collect what falls straight down, but the open frame of the saw really can't be closed up successfully.

I hope you get it before someone else grabs it. This is one of the better used table saws and it's worth $200-300 in that condition, not even counting the value of the extras.. You could sell the motor, fence, miter gauge, and the other accessories and turn a good profit if you decide not to keep it.

Charley


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Dunno about anyone else, but still have not seen a price.

When you saw, do not stand in line with the blade. I know that utube videos show supposedly intelligent people doing that all the time. But guess where any kickback will go if one happens. A clue, it is not going to go into the wall behind you.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Welcome, Rx88! Are you a pharmacist? Just curious.
On the saw thing, yeh, even if you have to spend a day cleaning it up, still sounds like a good deal. As Charley said, with the Unifence it's a steal.
The fact that the owner went to the trouble of buying and installing the Unifence would suggest that he was serious about his woodworking. Maybe he'd give you a short tutorial?

"... but the open frame of the saw really can't be closed up successfully." 
Charley

You really only ned to close in the front, bottom and two sides, I've left the the back of mine open for airflow. I have a 4" dust collection ftg. installed in the bottom panel and it works fairly well. Not perfect but waaaaay better than doing without dust collection.
Has anyone mentioned yet that this isn't an inexpensive hobby?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Wow, Charlie laid it out nicely. I think you're going to be happy with your saw. Since you're getting started, I've attached a pdf of the things and lessons that helped me accelerate my learning curve. Hopefully it will help you avoid some of my expensive mistakes. One of them is buying gadgets that may even be nice, but with the table saw and a good fence, many of those gadgets are really unnecessary.

I have a thing about breathing sawdust, and that saw tosses sawdust all over the place. I found a cloth bag that included snaps. You attached the male side onto the saw. It catches the sawdust from under the saw. It also fills up pretty fast, so you check it often. Since you're starting the hobby, you might keep your eye out for a large shop vac. It will attach to many of your future tools. If you want a simple but surprisingly effective dust collection (DC) setup, you can get a Dust Deputy cyclone device that separates most of the sawdust and nails and chips and drops it into a drum or large bucket. Here's a picture. The bucket will save a small fortune in filters for the shop vac., which without the dhip separator, fills with sawdust in minutes. You'll probably use this for a long time.


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

CharleyL said:


> That Delta saw is a 34-4** model, quite likely the 34-444 and it's a real bargain at $150 (if it runs). The Unifence alone is worth more than he's asking for the whole saw. Everything else is gravy.
> 
> The only thing that I don't like about these saws is the saw dust control - there isn't any. Most of it will land on that shelf. The rest will go everywhere. There is an after market bag that attaches to the legs where the shelf is located, to collect what falls straight down, but the open frame of the saw really can't be closed up successfully.
> 
> ...



+1
Buy it quick, if it works.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

I ran a quick search on the Delta 34-444 and if that is the one you are looking at, it should be a winner at that price. That assumes of course the caveats pointed out re rust etc. Solving the sawdust issue shouldn’t be a big problem either.

In the 70s I looked at a Delta TS where the arbor was on the motor. Stay away from that package, Delta’s quality control on mounting the arbor flange was virtually nonexistent.

Enjoy and welcome to the forum.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

That looks like a nice saw for a good price. I built up an old Delta contractor saw a few years ago. This place has all the fine tuning parts you may need. 
https://www.in-lineindustries.com/

You can add machined pulleys and link belts which will make the saw very smooth running. They also have blade PALs which allow good blade adjustment. I would start with what you have and see if anything has to be replaced before modifying the saw. 

I have a thread on this forum with my Delta contractor saw if you want more info.


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

So the search continues the person I was talking to sold it last night thinking he was talking to me he says but it’s ok hers what I found 

https://offerup.co/xBBXpvBUaZ

He’s willing to sell it without the dust collection and take some of the price for that would 350 be a decent price for this it looks like the table top is rusted 


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Or this one

https://offerup.co/egtnLwIVaZ


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Rx88 said:


> Or this one
> 
> https://offerup.co/egtnLwIVaZ
> 
> ...




This one is a delta 34-474 that looks clean for 400


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

$350 is too much for the rusted one. 
$400 seems fair for the clean one.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Amen to that, Gerry. That rusted one hasn't been maintained...who lets their cast iron get to that state?


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

ger21 said:


> $350 is too much for the rusted one.
> $400 seems fair for the clean one.




Yea that’s what I was thinking I have no interest in the massive dust collection system either it would be nice but just to short on space for that


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

I got the price on the 34-474 to 350 seems like a solid deal the saw looks pretty clean but we’ll see how it runs and it has the unifence 


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Big bonus on that fence.


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Yea I’m still unsure about that one at 350 I found this one that looks good I think I might jump on it https://letgo.onelink.me/O2PG/bc40c421


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

I didn't see any sign of kidding which worries me...........I'd take a hint from the name of the site....let...it...go.....


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

sreilly said:


> I didn't see any sign of kidding which worries me...........I'd take a hint from the name of the site....let...it...go.....




What’s not good about it?


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## Inor (Aug 15, 2019)

With the saw unplugged (obviously), try wiggling the blade back and forth and see if you can feel any play in the bearings. If not, check the fence and make sure it is solid. If those two things are good, I would pull the trigger. Even if you have to replace the motor, it seems like a decent deal to me.

As others have said, avoid Sears power tools that were made after 1970 at all possible costs!


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Now this is a table saw......https://charlottesville.craigslist.org/tls/d/woodberry-forest-altendorf-90-sliding/6940322041.html


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

sreilly said:


> Now this is a table saw......https://charlottesville.craigslist.org/tls/d/woodberry-forest-altendorf-90-sliding/6940322041.html




Yea that is nice but way outside of the budget and space I have. I want something simple but sturdy that will last me something that if need be I can change the motor and still have a working saw


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

What happened to that $350 Delta? The one with the Unifence??


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

I guess that's something I was thinking of. Did you look at the fence on that $70 saw? Is it even a real fence with adjustments? Sorry but if budget is a big concern then think of what your actually seeing. But if it does really interest you maybe the best ting to do is see it in person and see what this saw is really about. Maybe the guy can cut a piece or two of different widths so you can see the saw in action. Take a piece of scrape with you just in case he doesn't have any. While I was kidding about that German saw, which is a really nice saw and would fill most shops I've been in and then some, you want something of value and not a boat anchor. If that $70 saw will do what you want then go for it but you can't tell anything definitive form those pictures. And then again, have you priced electric motors recently?


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Skip that $70 saw. It's likely only 1 hp and the fence is terrible. It's likely 60 years old and made by Rockwell, the former Delta. The $350 looks like the best deal and in the right price range, but around here the same saw in the same condition would be $250-300 in the same condition. The heavily rusted one would take a day, and a lot of effort, but it could clean up and be a good saw, but I wouldn't pay more than $150 for just the saw, a little more for the dust collector, if you wanted it.

If you get one with a Unifence, I'll tell you how to adjust it and what you can do with it.

Charley


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

CharleyL said:


> Skip that $70 saw. It's likely only 1 hp and the fence is terrible. It's likely 60 years old and made by Rockwell, the former Delta. The $350 looks like the best deal and in the right price range, but around here the same saw in the same condition would be $250-300 in the same condition. The heavily rusted one would take a day, and a lot of effort, but it could clean up and be a good saw, but I wouldn't pay more than $150 for just the saw, a little more for the dust collector, if you wanted it.
> 
> If you get one with a Unifence, I'll tell you how to adjust it and what you can do with it.
> 
> Charley




Yea that’s something to think about I also saw this one that I’m considering










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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

I never heard of this brand any one know it


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

I have made my decision I am going to go with this jet saw for 280 which comes with everything In the pictures











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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

hurry...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I would go for that one too for the price. I looks like it has been taken care of better than the previous ones. The Dado looks like a wobbler though, which is not my favorite kind,they scare the pedooddle out of me. It has a 1 1/2hp. You will need to invest in some good blades.
Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> I would go for that one too for the price. I looks like it has been taken care of better than the previous ones. *The Dado looks like a wobbler though, which is not my favorite kind,they scare the pedooddle out of me. *It has a 1 1/2hp. You will need to invest in some good blades.
> Herb


me too..
they're tough on the arbor bearings too...

I'm real partial to Freud saw blades...


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Herb Stoops said:


> I would go for that one too for the price. I looks like it has been taken care of better than the previous ones. The Dado looks like a wobbler though, which is not my favorite kind,they scare the pedooddle out of me. It has a 1 1/2hp. You will need to invest in some good blades.
> Herb


Herb you may want to expand on that so he understands the reason behind the statement and what to expect to pay for "good" blades and why they're important.....


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

He says that it’s mine he’s just out of town till Friday so no pick up till then but looks like the best one at the price I’ll just make sure there are no issues with the arbor before I take it 


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Rx88 said:


> I’ll just make sure there are no issues with the arbor before I take it


even if the bearings are worn or have play in them they are easy enough to change...
the blade shown looks to have seen better days...
about blades.. see the PDF's...
*
Note:*
many TS manufactures tell you *NOT* to use wobble dado blades because they are not arbor friendly...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

sreilly said:


> Herb you may want to expand on that so he understands the reason behind the statement and what to expect to pay for "good" blades and why they're important.....


I use the Freud blades exclusively on all 3 of my saws.
https://ptreeusa.com/tablesaw_sawblades_freud_rip.htm
Some guys don't like the thin kerf, but I find both are superb. Expect to pay around $60.-$70. for them, they will last twice as long as the cheapo blades. I do have several cheap blades left over from the older days,before I started buying Freuds.
It pays also to buy blades with larger chips of carbide on the tooth as the saw shop can get several sharpenings out of them for half the price of the new blades as long as there are no teeth missing.
I use the cheap old blades for cutting used and scrap material that might contain foreign particles.
As for the wobbler dado............They do have more vibration than a regular Dado, and fewer teeth, they cut by the blade being set at an angle to the arbor to achieve a wider cut. just looking at them spin gives me the heebiejeebies.
Please don't sell it to someone who doesn't know about one.

Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"As for the wobbler dado............They do have more vibration than a regular Dado, and fewer teeth, they cut by the blade being set at an angle to the arbor to achieve a wider cut. just looking at them spin gives me the heebiejeebies.
Please don't sell it to someone who doesn't know about one."
-Herb

What Herb said in Spades!!!! VoE...damn things should be banned; very sloppy cuts and dangerous to boot.
The only serious power tool accident I've had was due to one of them. 
DIMAR makes a really nice dado set:
http://dimar-canada.com/pdf/DadoSets8.pdf
They're not inexpensive, but you'll have it for a lifetime.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> DIMAR makes a really nice dado set:
> http://dimar-canada.com/pdf/DadoSets8.pdf
> They're not inexpensive, but you'll have it for a lifetime.


down here it's the Freuds


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Freud is popular up here as well, but there are other great commercial quality choices as well (Forrest https://www.forrestblades.com/). The thing is you won't find the alternatives at HD. You need to find specialty retailers.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

I have a set from Freud which which included a set of micro shims and provides clean bottom surfaces which is great for boxes. The other set from Systimatic I use for general purpose when the bottom surface is not such an issue. 

Definitely would not touch the wobblers regardless of manufacturer.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Freud is popular up here as well, but there are other great commercial quality choices as well (Forrest https://www.forrestblades.com/). The thing is you won't find the alternatives at HD. You need to find specialty retailers.


Something has happened over at Forest.. 
they just *AIN'T* what they use to be...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> Something has happened over at Forest..
> they just *AIN'T* what they use to be...


That's unfortunate...change of ownership? It's usually the bean counters that are to blame when this happens.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Dad retired???


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*The Old Ways*



Stick486 said:


> Dad retired???


Yup; that especially.


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## sonnywiehe (Mar 4, 2011)

*Best to get on with it*

Bottom Line on tool value: If it fits your budget and allows you to get on with what you intend to do, than it's a good deal. Like most anything else, you get what you pay for...so buy the best you can afford. Same logic applies when you feel you should upgrade. When upgrading, sell your used tools (that you no longer intend to use) for as much as someone is willing to pay. Finally, take care of your tools and they will take care of you.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

sonnywiehe said:


> Bottom Line on tool value: If it fits your budget and allows you to get on with what you intend to do, than it's a good deal. Like most anything else, you get what you pay for...so buy the best you can afford. Same logic applies when you feel you should upgrade. When upgrading, sell your used tools (that you no longer intend to use) for as much as someone is willing to pay. Finally, take care of your tools and they will take care of you.


I learned an interesting thing about tools from a retired mechanic. I told him I was going to buy westward tools , as I can’t afford SnapOn .
Every time I get I to this topic with people , they always remark that the MasterCraft tools at Crappy Tire have a life time guarantee, so why would you buy SnapOn ? 

To which this mechanic replied , if I go to remove a bolt and the socket expands ruining the head , it can take a lot of time to extract it .
This is why we buy SnapOn . 

Of course I’m a backyard mechanic and do not do it for a living , so second best is good enough for me .

I’m still choked that a coworker convinced me to buy a metal bandsaw that doesn’t cut straight in order to save a few dollars . I should have gone General , and now I have a $1500 paper weight because I went with some unfamiliar brand.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I have a couple sets of CT's Maximum line of wrenches and they are as good as any others I own.


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## johnjory (Sep 19, 2013)

How much is the Delta? Did you say $125 that is less than half the cost of the rip fence.


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## Straightlines (May 15, 2013)

Well even though I am mighty late to this dance, I’ll throw my 2¢ out there anyway:

Sadly, I am in a small shop, so space is the most precious tool I have. Needing 10’ in front of and behind it plus an 8' wide channel to live in, a table saw requires more floor area than any other common woodworking tool, at the expense of all the other tools in the shop, including the workbench, which is certainly more important than the table saw.

Even if you put things on wheels, that space still has to be cleared in order to safely use the TS, and that’s a time-consuming pain to make happen. I came up against this and decided to sell my very nice Grizzly cabinet saw. I replaced it with a beautiful vintage Delta 40C radial arm saw, because those are designed to be installed against a wall and they’re more versatile than a TS. 

I can hear the howls now, but a well tuned RAS is just as accurate as a TS, and more versatile without the need for all sorts of add-on jigs and aids. For anyone not able to accept that, then you might want to get caught up over at the Delphi Forums DeWalt Radial Arm Saw Forum. 

Furthermore, when it comes to dealing with sheet goods and stock under 8/4 by anyone other than a large production shop, a track saw is unbeatable. I have a Makita that can be had for $475 from Amazon, and it does double duty as a jointer for stock up to 8/4. The track saw is basically a circular saw running on a special track, so it is light, portable, and can cut unlimited lengths. 

The track saw is my recommendation, preceded by the bench and followed by a quality bandsaw. I’m probably an iconoclast, but that’s what I have and I can do more with that in less space than a TS.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

I got the Grizz track saw when it was sale. Now I can break the big pieces down in the drive and carry them into the basement.


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## BCR (Mar 30, 2009)

If you are willing to pay 350. to 400.00 then just wait for a good sale on a Ridgig saw brand new, 1.5 HP you can get for under 400.00 on sale.
Parts are readily available, and most contractor type saws will have the hanging motor so you can upgrade if needed in the future fairly easy.

But if you buy used, I would worry the least on table aesthetics as long as its just surface rust, they can be cleaned really easy to look brand new. The trunnion rusted is a different story, as well as someone pointed out, check for bearing play in the motor.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I think the Delta with the Unifence is the best deal over all. If you missed that one, maybe the Jet would be the next one that I would want. Be a real shame if the Delta got away from you. Good ones at good prices don't last long.

Charley


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

I ended up getting the jet for 280 it’s a nice saw works great no play in the arbor the fence is very accurate I’m working on my first project with it now building an extension router table


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

Question though for this router table which screw holes do I drill out to mount it


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Rx or N/a; are you ever going to fill out a profile? We neeed to call you something...

Did you buy a router plate for your router? You'll have to pull the existing black plate off and install a router plate to mount it in a table, or not, but that's the normal procedure.

https://www.amazon.com/bosch-router-table-plate/s?k=bosch+router+table+plate


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Yup. Router plate is the best bet. Kreg makes some leveling screws you can use to level the plate with the top. I prefer a metal plate, and I'd rather have one with a twist lock inert so you don't have to unscrew and screw the insert when you need to change it or adjust height. The plate is big, often 8-9 by 11 -12, the opening in it is usually about 4 inches across, with an insert of different size openings to you have support for your work right near the bit. 

Pix of leveling screw and also of a router mounting plate (fancy one in the pix). Middle pix is what I use in many cases to set the bit height. It's cheap. The router plate is a Woodpecker plate, extra heavy, premium price, there are much less expensive plates with the bayonet mount (twist lock like an SLR lens mount). The leveling screws used to be about $20, but you can use regular screws (pre-drilled) through the lip you cut. You can file down the sharp tips for better support. Or use a threaded insert and a bolt trough that lip.

That is a nice saw. I think you got a good deal and it will last a long time. BTW, I don't use paste wax on my cast iron, I use something called Boeshield T-9 to stop rust from forming. Works better than wax for me. Here's a link for several of their products, including a good rust remover. https://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-BO...X9AN2KCWM3C&psc=1&refRID=VB2TQN9XXX9AN2KCWM3C


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

DesertRatTom said:


> Yup. Router plate is the best bet. Kreg makes some leveling screws you can use to level the plate with the top. I prefer a metal plate, and I'd rather have one with a twist lock inert so you don't have to unscrew and screw the insert when you need to change it or adjust height. The plate is big, often 8-9 by 11 -12, the opening in it is usually about 4 inches across, with an insert of different size openings to you have support for your work right near the bit.
> 
> Pix of leveling screw and also of a router mounting plate (fancy one in the pix). Middle pix is what I use in many cases to set the bit height. It's cheap. The router plate is a Woodpecker plate, extra heavy, premium price, there are much less expensive plates with the bayonet mount (twist lock like an SLR lens mount). The leveling screws used to be about $20, but you can use regular screws (pre-drilled) through the lip you cut. You can file down the sharp tips for better support. Or use a threaded insert and a bolt trough that lip.
> 
> That is a nice saw. I think you got a good deal and it will last a long time. BTW, I don't use paste wax on my cast iron, I use something called Boeshield T-9 to stop rust from forming. Works better than wax for me. Here's a link for several of their products, including a good rust remover. https://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-BO...X9AN2KCWM3C&psc=1&refRID=VB2TQN9XXX9AN2KCWM3C




Yea that looks good but I want to go straight through the wood that im using as my base and make my own base plate with that


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

DaninVan said:


> Rx or N/a; are you ever going to fill out a profile? We neeed to call you something...
> 
> Did you buy a router plate for your router? You'll have to pull the existing black plate off and install a router plate to mount it in a table, or not, but that's the normal procedure.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/bosch-router-table-plate/s?k=bosch+router+table+plate




My name is Ron. For some reason on Tapatalk it doesn’t let me fill out a profile or else I would. I just want to mount it to a wood insert I made in the table I would like to make my own router plate instead of having to buy one


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## BCR (Mar 30, 2009)

Using some cheap or rather scrap lexan, would be much better. As it will have little to no movement when the router heats up, or temp inside/outside changes. Lexan/plexiglass is easy to work with, it routs just as easy as wood if not easier. But be careful, if you use to low of a speed it can bite. I make them all the time. I go to a place like (near me) prospect plastics, and pick up 3/4 lexan all the time, and I always have scrap enough for a router plate size. Heck, someone could even make one for you, with just charge of shipping costs. They only take about 5 minutes to make. What exact router are you using? You may have said earlier, but I am not reading 9 pages to find out. If its the same as mine, I will know the mounting setup, and would be happy to send you one. I use 2 Ridgid 2.1/4 HP not sure of the model off top of my head, as well a PC trim router, and a Craftsman trim as well. But a plate for the trim router is unnecessary.


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

BCR said:


> Using some cheap or rather scrap lexan, would be much better. As it will have little to no movement when the router heats up, or temp inside/outside changes. Lexan/plexiglass is easy to work with, it routs just as easy as wood if not easier. But be careful, if you use to low of a speed it can bite. I make them all the time. I go to a place like (near me) prospect plastics, and pick up 3/4 lexan all the time, and I always have scrap enough for a router plate size. Heck, someone could even make one for you, with just charge of shipping costs. They only take about 5 minutes to make. What exact router are you using? You may have said earlier, but I am not reading 9 pages to find out. If its the same as mine, I will know the mounting setup, and would be happy to send you one. I use 2 Ridgid 2.1/4 HP not sure of the model off top of my head, as well a PC trim router, and a Craftsman trim as well. But a plate for the trim router is unnecessary.




I use a Bosch 1617 


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

BCR said:


> Using some cheap or rather scrap lexan, would be much better. As it will have little to no movement when the router heats up, or temp inside/outside changes. Lexan/plexiglass is easy to work with, it routs just as easy as wood if not easier. But be careful, if you use to low of a speed it can bite. I make them all the time. I go to a place like (near me) prospect plastics, and pick up 3/4 lexan all the time, and I always have scrap enough for a router plate size. Heck, someone could even make one for you, with just charge of shipping costs. They only take about 5 minutes to make. What exact router are you using? You may have said earlier, but I am not reading 9 pages to find out. If its the same as mine, I will know the mounting setup, and would be happy to send you one. I use 2 Ridgid 2.1/4 HP not sure of the model off top of my head, as well a PC trim router, and a Craftsman trim as well. But a plate for the trim router is unnecessary.




I want To use this board as my base since I already trimmed the table to fit










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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

That will work. Many shop made tables don't have a plate at all. The only complication will come when you use a large bit. If you cut a hole big enough for that, it will be too large an opening for smaller bits. You could switch to a different wood plate with different size openings. the most important thing to me would be getting the wood plate level with the table. You don't want even a small difference because it will cause the workpiece to shift during a cut, which will likely ruin that piece. So do consider using the Kreg levelers which will make it easier for you to get exact alignment.


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## Rx88 (Aug 14, 2019)

DesertRatTom said:


> That will work. Many shop made tables don't have a plate at all. The only complication will come when you use a large bit. If you cut a hole big enough for that, it will be too large an opening for smaller bits. You could switch to a different wood plate with different size openings. the most important thing to me would be getting the wood plate level with the table. You don't want even a small difference because it will cause the workpiece to shift during a cut, which will likely ruin that piece. So do consider using the Kreg levelers which will make it easier for you to get exact alignment.




Ok thank you for the advice do you happen to know the size of screws to use?


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## BCR (Mar 30, 2009)

Hopefully you have the centering cone. It really is a must when making your own plates. As stated, you may need a plate for larger bits, but these are usually specialty bits like rail style set, or most large table edge bits. Most of the plates I make for myself use the PC size, when I make a lexan plate I always keep that size in mind for my hole saw. Granted I rarely use the PC fittings for template work, but when used they do work exactly as needed. Most bits will fit in this size, you do not want to big of a hole for your main plate, for small pieces it could cause major issues. I suggest your first be standard size, and have a backup plate for large bits, assuming you have some and size accordingly to the ones you have. If I need a quick disposable plate (for my large table bits that I use once every few years) I will make it out of wood (plywood is best). Anyhow, do what you like, just speaking from my experiences.:nerd:


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## BCR (Mar 30, 2009)

Here are a few I have, the small one I made for the trim router, just never needed to finish it. So no center hole as of yet. The one in the table is my main one, and has a PC fitting in it (as I just put it in, lol). And the one on the router is mainly for dado, but I just used it this morning for some edge trimming. 
Also posted a pick of item, I am kicking my arse for not buying as soon as they came out. The magfence I got a week ago, and wonder how I ever lived without it for thin veneer stock REALLY quick, as well resaw, and of course as a featherboard. The box in the pic is a long term project, being disabled I only work on it about 20 minutes a week (at most) I did some inlay strips, but have not put them on the box yet. As well I need to work on the quadrants a little more, etc..etc.. The ambrosia is 1/8" panels bookmatched all sliding (no glue), The box bottom (tiger maple) has already been cleared as it was also a floating bottom panel. Just not sure what else I want to do with it. Sorry for the really crappy pics, in the future I will take better pics. Oh, yeah that's all 3/4 plexi or thicker. The only reason box is in pic, as it was truly just sitting there (I did not purposefully place it). It needs to be moved, as I just redid my outfeed table. And now need to do side table, you can see how bad shape its in. Probably will not add a router hole in it, as I have a Incra fence system, I will use on my workbench, and just transfer router there (will be easier to add dust control anyhow.)

Sorry for off topic (it's nearly 11pm and I was online, I sleep 1 day but am up for 3 days straight) As well, I do not want to hijack thread, but we have already covered the main topic of table saw.

Oh BTW, good choice on TS, it looks good to boot.


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