# Need miniature hinge jig for Proxxton Router.



## campchair (Jun 12, 2009)

I make various small boxes that uses a very high grade type of forged brass butt hinge. Most are about 1/2" to 3/4" wide, and must be inletted with both sides of the box clamped together after cutting it apart. Wood must show in front, so a simple saw cut is out. I recently bought a little Proxxton miniature router that is perfect, except I need some more control besides perching it on the 3/4" wide box and using the straightedge guide. Visability is not too good, and the possibility of overrun is high. I use it only for roughing out, then finish with hand chisel; my customers want square-cornered hinges only. Does anyone out there have any experience with any sort of jig or fixture used with the Proxxton router? I usually do my boxes 20 at a time so I do need something fairly fast in set-up.

Thanks, Campchair.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

To make things simple, forget about the size for a moment. The easiest way to make a clearance cut for hinges is to set the bit height above a table to match the hinge thickness on one wing. To get the spacing identical a fence is usually set up on the side for a reference line. To cut the left hinge clearance simply flip the box over and run the back edge forward over the bit. To match the distance on the other side rotate the box 180º, place the box over the bit and push it away from you. Since it is difficult to use a backer board for this I suggest placing masking tape over the edges to help prevent tear out. Now, mount your router under a table and go for it.


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## campchair (Jun 12, 2009)

Mike, here are some photos that might better explain the problem. I apologise as I don't think I explained what I need very clearly. These hinges must be final-fitted by hand, and I don't mind that. The little Proxxton does a superb job, but balancing it running there on the case that is only 1" wide when clamped together is sort of unsteady, and visibility of the bit is very restricted. Also, some of my oak cases are only 3/8" thick. Even whae the sides are clamped together, that's only a 3/4" surface I have to balance it on, and I'm cutting Red Oak. I need somethjing I can drop the split case in, clamp it together, top-back to bottom back, and go. The Praxxton doesn't look like a bushing can be fitted as that would extend the bit too far out the chuck and promote wobble (maybe). Anyway, ANY ideas to get me pointed in the right direction would help. I do have a well equipped metal-working shop (I am a gunsmith and old burnt-out tool-and-die machinist,) and I am more used to metal than wood, but an aluminium or Stainless Steel jig is not an impossibility. It's just the hinges must be perfectly inletted. These are for $5,000 to $10,000.00 highly engraved handguns. Quality of the Case gotta match what's inside.


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## campchair (Jun 12, 2009)

*Praxxton Question photos*



campchair said:


> Mike, here are some photos that might better explain the problem. I apologise as I don't think I explained what I need very clearly. These hinges must be final-fitted by hand, and I don't mind that. The little Proxxton does a superb job, but balancing it running there on the case that is only 1" wide when clamped together is sort of unsteady, and visibility of the bit is very restricted. Also, some of my oak cases are only 3/8" thick. Even whae the sides are clamped together, that's only a 3/4" surface I have to balance it on, and I'm cutting Red Oak. I need somethjing I can drop the split case in, clamp it together, top-back to bottom back, and go. The Praxxton doesn't look like a bushing can be fitted as that would extend the bit too far out the chuck and promote wobble (maybe). Anyway, ANY ideas to get me pointed in the right direction would help. I do have a well equipped metal-working shop (I am a gunsmith and old burnt-out tool-and-die machinist,) and I am more used to metal than wood, but an aluminium or Stainless Steel jig is not an impossibility. It's just the hinges must be perfectly inletted. These are for $5,000 to $10,000.00 highly engraved handguns. Quality of the Case gotta match what's inside.


Sorry, got confused on how to atach photos.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi campchair

You may want to take a hard look at the hinges below,they are made for thin stock or the ones you don't want to see in the high end boxes.. 


barb hinges
Rockler - Search Results for 'barb hinges'
Hidden Barrel Hinges
Hidden Barrel Hinges - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Proxxon Tools: Micro Router MOF
Proxxon MOF Micro-Router: Proxxon Plunge Router, Proxxon Micro Router MOF
Buy Proxxon Micro Plunge Router, Proxxon Micro Plunge Router, Proxxon -
Amazon.com: Proxxon 38568 MOF MICRO Router: Home Improvement

Bits sets ▼
Amazon.com: Proxxon 29020 Router Bit Set in Wooden Box, 10-Piece: Home Improvement

H0880 Mini Bit 10 pc. Set , 1/8" Shank


A real nice touch for a high end boxes would be the wooden hinges.. 
NEW INCRA HingeCrafter kit with plans and drill bit - eBay (item 220438335398 end time Jun-27-09 19:45:00 PDT)

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Incra-Hingecrafter/T20533
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campchair said:


> Sorry, got confused on how to atach photos.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

You need a hinge jig with a wide table to support the router base. Use the appropriate template guide bush and trim the rounded corners with a sharp chisel.


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## campchair (Jun 12, 2009)

Thanks, but the cases I make can't have different hinges that what I am using. I have cuite a few sets of thin hinges in stock, but these cases have to be made "The Hard Way". These are got highly decorated firearms, and I'm afraid no "shortcuts" are allowed. Besides, the cases I am making not cheap, and at the price I get, everything must be very high end. I tried Brusso hinges, but they were rejected as they had Round Ends. (!!) Not Traditional. I can't even use Phillips screws in the finished product. However, thank you for your soggestions, and I have added them to my "Favorites" as I am going to make more boxes and cases that just these! Appreciate it!


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## campchair (Jun 12, 2009)

*Fixture for Proxxton*



Mike Wingate said:


> You need a hinge jig with a wide table to support the router base. Use the appropriate template guide bush and trim the rounded corners with a sharp chisel.


Mike, the Proxxton doesn't have the ability to be fitted with a guide bushing, and the miniature router bits can't be either. Think "Trim Router" (on steroids). However, the wide table is what I am thinking too. Any guides/stops will have to be fitted up on the top where the rectangular base can be guided by them. Any plans/similar fixtures available? Thanks for the reply. Bill


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## campchair (Jun 12, 2009)

campchair said:


> Thanks, but the cases I make can't have different hinges that what I am using. I have cuite a few sets of thin hinges in stock, but these cases have to be made "The Hard Way". These are got highly decorated firearms, and I'm afraid no "shortcuts" are allowed. Besides, the cases I am making not cheap, and at the price I get, everything must be very high end. I tried Brusso hinges, but they were rejected as they had Round Ends. (!!) Not Traditional. I can't even use Phillips screws in the finished product. However, thank you for your soggestions, and I have added them to my "Favorites" as I am going to make more boxes and cases that just these! Appreciate it!


My Spelling is awful!! They are "for" highly engraved firearms.... and I have "quite" a few different..... Fat fingers!


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Can you mount a subbase incorporating a small guide bush to the base of the Proxxton. Double sided tape, clips, screws. Adapt and survive. Have you got a slightly larger router that you can adapt?


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

campchair said:


> Mike, here are some photos that might better explain the problem. I apologise as I don't think I explained what I need very clearly. These hinges must be final-fitted by hand, and I don't mind that. The little Proxxton does a superb job, but balancing it running there on the case that is only 1" wide when clamped together is sort of unsteady, and visibility of the bit is very restricted. Also, some of my oak cases are only 3/8" thick. Even whae the sides are clamped together, that's only a 3/4" surface I have to balance it on, and I'm cutting Red Oak. I need somethjing I can drop the split case in, clamp it together, top-back to bottom back, and go. The Praxxton doesn't look like a bushing can be fitted as that would extend the bit too far out the chuck and promote wobble (maybe). Anyway, ANY ideas to get me pointed in the right direction would help. I do have a well equipped metal-working shop (I am a gunsmith and old burnt-out tool-and-die machinist,) and I am more used to metal than wood, but an aluminium or Stainless Steel jig is not an impossibility. It's just the hinges must be perfectly inletted. These are for $5,000 to $10,000.00 highly engraved handguns. Quality of the Case gotta match what's inside.


Hi Campchair I have just tried file on a routerbit and think it may be soft enough to drill and tap the end and fit a bearing to act as a guide making it as a flush trim bit but with a large bit with a small bearing combination. You could then use a suitable combination of bearing/cutter to give you the desired cut. A suitable spacer may be needed to extend the bearing past the cutting edges of the bit. Then with both pieces clamped together but with a spacer between them make the cuts. This spacer would give your router stability as it would be supported on both both box sides. You then only need to control the length of cut. If someone out there has a stuffed router bit they may try drilling or hacksawing to establish if in fact they can be drilled sucessfully and let us all know.:nhl_checking:


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