# how do i round it over?



## Woodwonders (Oct 24, 2008)

I need to round this small edge...its only about 1/8th of a inch...can it be done with a round over bit?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

*real puzzle here*

Gethenet: Is that a hole in the middle? If so, stick a plug into the hole, use a circle cutting jig, try to match the diameter of the disk and use a 1/8" round-over bit. Freud makes one #20-301

I answered this more to pull it back up to the top so the other guys would take a second look at it. However, I hope this helps.

Allthunbs


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## Woodwonders (Oct 24, 2008)

allthunbs said:


> Gethenet: Is that a hole in the middle? If so, stick a plug into the hole, use a circle cutting jig, try to match the diameter of the disk and use a 1/8" round-over bit. Freud makes one #20-301
> 
> I answered this more to pull it back up to the top so the other guys would take a second look at it. However, I hope this helps.
> 
> Allthunbs


That helped alot. Thank you...I knew there was away to do it, just didnt know how... I will give it a shot
Another question...what circle jig would you recommend? I have a PC router


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

gethenet said:


> That helped alot. Thank you...I knew there was away to do it, just didnt know how... I will give it a shot
> Another question...what circle jig would you recommend? I have a PC router


Hi Gethenet: 

Got a chunk of masonite or other close grained wood/plywood? A fancy store bought gizzmo makes lots of money for the vendor but is no better than a piece of scrap.

I wrote out the entire operation from one end to the other in all it's permutations and convolutions and arrived at the conclusion that it is quicker and simpler to _carefully_ round it over using a piece of medium-fine grit (>120) sandpaper on a wooden block. Even with more than 20 steps, I couldn't get the router to match the circle exactly. 

Sorry

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi gethenet

Just one more way to get it done, see below 

1/8" Radius
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_round_over.html

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gethenet said:


> I need to round this small edge...its only about 1/8th of a inch...can it be done with a round over bit?


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

The piece is held upside down correct?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nick

Right On 

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nickao65 said:


> The piece is held upside down correct?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Bob & Gethenet:



bobj3 said:


> Just one more way to get it done, see below
> 1/8" Radius
> http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_round_over.html


When you remove the bearing, there will be a stem. If I'm not mistaken, you'll have to grind that stem off to gain clearance. In this instance, you'll not have enough clearance. Neat idea though. I'm going to inventory it for future use. BTW, the Freud number I gave you doesn't have a bearing so it might still work in this situation.

Ok, I've got to go back a bit and give you a different take on all of this. I would guess that you cut out a circle then using a roundover bit with a bearing, you did the roundover with a shoulder. In this instance, I would think that your circle really isn't. It's probably slightly oval. What Bob is proposing will work with a near-perfect circle but the narrower the arc, the deeper the bit is going to cut. This may not match your arc, in which case you will have a roundover cutting into the field.

Had you done this on a lathe, the result would have been dramatically different and Bob's solution would be more feasible. Try his solution on a piece of scrap and see how it does. I'm curious to see how close you can get.

I'm afraid my vote still goes with sandpaper :-( It ain't elegant but it works. You might route an 1/8" groove into a block of wood and use that as a form for your sandpaper.

I keep thinking about any possible solution. If you're really ambitious, you can mount your router on a pair of skis, set up a split fence like Bob is suggesting, and position your router over the split fence. Then feed your workpiece into the bit. It might just work. 

Alternatively, stick a nail through the centre of your workpiece into your workbench. Make sure the workpiece rotates with no other movement. Mount your router on a pair of skis and anchor one of the skis. Pull the router over to nearly contact your workpiece and rotate the workpiece. That way, if the circle isn't, you'll not screw up the world in the process. If it is a slight oval, you can work the free ski back and forth as you turn the piece. Confused? Me too!

This might help.

Allthunbs


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

When I began messing around with period projects I invested in a profile sander kit. Dealing with the nooks and crannies of old profiles that don't exist anymore is a pain in the butt, sanding reproduced moldings is also a pain. 

Because the profiles are of rubber they flex over a wide range, because they're inexpensive, (profiles) it isn't cost prohibitive to modify one for a specific project.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

You can get a mini round over with no bearing that will work with Bobs method.

On something like that I would just take the sharp edge down with sandpaper. That little ridge is not pronounced enough to warrant the routing and possible damage. 

If you started the project from scratch changing your procedure you can get it done. You kind of backed yourself into a corner now that is already complete.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Here's a small router bit that will do the job also

http://www.grizzly.com/products/c1318
http://www.grizzly.com/catalog/2008/Main/507

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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I think the beading bit would work perfectly.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

nickao65 said:


> You can get a mini round over with no bearing that will work with Bobs method.
> 
> On something like that I would just take the sharp edge down with sandpaper. That little ridge is not pronounced enough to warrant the routing and possible damage.
> 
> If you started the project from scratch changing your procedure you can get it done. You kind of backed yourself into a corner now that is already complete.


Nickao65: I'm trying to figure out how to do it at all. Suggestions?

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi allthunbs

"When you remove the bearing, there will be a stem. If I'm not mistaken, you'll have to grind that stem off to gain clearance.

True, but that's when the 3.00 dollar router bit comes into play 
It's cheaper and quicker than picking up a 15.oo dollar router bit to do the same job.. need to think out side the box so to speak 

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allthunbs said:


> Hi Bob & Gethenet:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

nickao65 said:


> I think the beading bit would work perfectly.


Ok, I think I might have a solution. My biggest problem has been to accommodate a circle that is out of round. I've got an idea that just might work.

Somewhere on this site is a horizontally mounted router. It is a home-built setup but it allows the vertical adjustment of the router on a horizontal plane. If the bit depth were adjusted carefully, a tiny bit of the circle could be taken off at a time. As you adjust the depth of cut (both horizontally and vertically) you can take the shoulder down a few hundredths or thousanths at a time and thus not mess up your project and you don't have to worry about out of round situations. Flat will be important but that can be controlled under the bit by a featherboard.

Bob: where is the horizontal router table mount thread?

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi allthunbs

Here's a link to the last one I made 

http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/9782-best-both-worlds.html

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allthunbs said:


> Ok, I think I might have a solution. My biggest problem has been to accommodate a circle that is out of round. I've got an idea that just might work.
> 
> Somewhere on this site is a horizontally mounted router. It is a home-built setup but it allows the vertical adjustment of the router on a horizontal plane. If the bit depth were adjusted carefully, a tiny bit of the circle could be taken off at a time. As you adjust the depth of cut (both horizontally and vertically) you can take the shoulder down a few hundredths or thousanths at a time and thus not mess up your project and you don't have to worry about out of round situations. Flat will be important but that can be controlled under the bit by a featherboard.
> 
> ...


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Here's a link to the last one I made
> 
> http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/9782-best-both-worlds.html


That's it! Perfect.

Ghidrah: of all of the things I can think of, this is the best solution to the problem. This has been a real brain bender but I think I finally got it.

I hope this will solve your problem elegantly.

Allthunbs


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

If I may add my humble opinion, I am quite sure that even with the end cutting 1/8" round-over cutter, there is insufficient height on that shoulder. In retrospect, I think that the round-over should have been done FIRST, however, as it now stands, allthumbs idea of gently sanding the edge seem to be the answer.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> If I may add my humble opinion, I am quite sure that even with the end cutting 1/8" round-over cutter, there is insufficient height on that shoulder. In retrospect, I think that the round-over should have been done FIRST, however, as it now stands, allthumbs idea of gently sanding the edge seem to be the answer.


Harry: even doing the round-over first, I couldn't figure out how to do it. Suggestions?

Allthunbs


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

If a definitive answer isn't found in the next day or two, please post the dimensions and I shall test an idea that's in my mind, and if successful, will post pics. (of course!)


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