# For Neiltsubota



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Ski jig's are very usefull items to have. Keep in mind that a plunge router is the best choice for maximum utility. Since you own a Bosch 1604 I built this jig to give you a way to get started. I used a 1601 which is in effect the same router. Start by removing the wooden knobs and place them in a Zip lock bag for safe keeping. Since I often do this I mark the bag with the routers model number. Remove the sub base plate and keep it handy; you will use this to mark the hole locations on the mounting plate. I built this jig from scraps on hand and only purchased the hardware for less than $10.

Parts required: (From any good hardware store)
8 each: 1/4" - 20 x 2" hanger bolts
8 each: 1/4" - 20 solid wing nuts (Do not use the stamped kind as they do not last)
8 each: 1/4" flat washers
2 each: 1/4" - 20 nuts (For installing the hanger bolts)
6 each: #8 x 3/4" flat head wood screws
1 each: 6" x 7" Lexan 1/4" thick. (The hardware store will cut this for you)

Note: I used an old piece of used Plexiglas for my mounting plate. One of the corners chipped off and this is not important because 4 screws will hold the router. The extra hole in the plate was from another jig and does not effect performance.

Note: I used an old piece of Plexiglas for the mounting plate. One corner chipped off when mounting it to the rails; this really doesn't matter because 4 screws are enough to hold the router.

Baltic birch plywood parts, do not substitute other types of plywood:
2 short rails: 1-1/4" x 6" x 1/2" thick
2 long rails: 1-1/2" x 18" x 1/2" thick 
2 Risers: 5" x 8" x 3/4" thick

This job requires a 5/16" straight or spiral bit and a 1/4" roundover bit.

Set up your router table with the 5/16" straight bit and adjust it so the center is 3/4" from your fence. Cut the slots in the long rails leaving 1-1/2" on each end. Cut the slots in the Risers leaving 1/2" on each end. Next install your 1/4" roundover bit and round over the two top corners of the risers then roundover the ends and top on both sides of the risers.

Drill/countersink the 6 holes and attach the short rails to the ends of the Lexan mounting plate with the #8 screws. Center your drill bit on the ends of all the rails and drill the holes for the hanger bolts. Install the hanger bolts by jambing the two nuts on the end of the bolt and turning them in.

Drill the center hole in the mounting plate using a 1-3/4" Forstner bit or hole saw. Assemble the H frame with the washers and wing nuts. Your sub base plate will fit into the frame; Mark the mounting hole locations with a Sharpie marker, remove the plate and drill/countersink the holes from the bottom side of the plate.

Adjusting the ski jig:
With the H frame sitting on a level surface tighten the wing nuts on the short rails. Set the H frame on two spacers known to be square. (I use 1,2,3 blocks for this) Add the risers, washers and wing nuts on the ends and tighten. It is important to do this EVERY time you set up the jig. Attach your routers base to the mounting plate and drop in the motor.


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## JPF WOODWORKING (Jun 8, 2012)

OK, I'll bite......What type of work will this jig allow you to do? Sorry, I am unfamiliar with this jig and what it might do for you....Thanks for sharing! John


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I'll leave this one for Harry........LOl


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

John, ski jig's offer great control and safety. One very handy feature is the ability to surface plane boards. They greatly enhance working with guide bushings and templates. Making freehand signs is very easy with a ski jig.

See the photo below of Harry delivering the ski jig tutorial to the forums.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You cheeky sod!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> I'll leave this one for Harry........LOl


Here are just a few taken from my many threads. Rather like a radial arm saw, one's imagination is the limiting factor as to what can be achieved with a ski mounted router.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

Nice job ,,,,now we know that's it's Not written in STONE how to make a ski jig, or how to use them 
I for one have used threaded rod and it works very well.. 

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Mike said:


> Ski jig's are very usefull items to have. Keep in mind that a plunge router is the best choice for maximum utility. Since you own a Bosch 1604 I built this jig to give you a way to get started. I used a 1601 which is in effect the same router. Start by removing the wooden knobs and place them in a Zip lock bag for safe keeping. Since I often do this I mark the bag with the routers model number. Remove the sub base plate and keep it handy; you will use this to mark the hole locations on the mounting plate. I built this jig from scraps on hand and only purchased the hardware for less than $10.
> 
> Parts required: (From any good hardware store)
> 8 each: 1/4" - 20 x 2" hanger bolts
> ...


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

for a threaded rod application with 3/8" rods, in your all's opinion, how long can the rods be before sagging becomes an issue?

my routers (ryobi) have 3/8" rod openings.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

28" will do the trick, I have some 36" long they sag a little bit but it's not a big deal because the router is on top of the projects most of the time anyway..

Most don't know the ski jig is just a router table upside down so to speak...and you move the router over the wood..

===


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Chris, the sagging issue with the smaller rod diameter was something that concerned me along with the difficulty for most people to come up with the steel rods. I felt the plywood was an elegant and inexpensive solution that everyone could use. My inspiration for this was looking at one of BJ's threaded rod jigs. This is a point I keep repeating: We all benefit when members share photos of their projects.

BJ... "Set in stone"... too funny! I was on Skype with Harry when he read this thread and I wish everyone could of heard him laughing about the photo.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

28" x 3/8" rods are a no no, unless the router is VERY light weight the sag would be un-acceptable. In my humble opinion 18" would be more like it.
I think that Bj, bless his cotton picking socks, is going through a grumpy period, I'm sure it wont last long!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey " grumpy period " who me 

That's one of the neat things about threaded rod if they are 28" long you can adjust them in easy,right down to 6" the norm..one size fits all ...plus you don't need a tank of a router.. 


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harrysin said:


> 28" x 3/8" rods are a no no, unless the router is VERY light weight the sag would be un-acceptable. In my humble opinion 18" would be more like it.
> I think that Bj, bless his cotton picking socks, is going through a grumpy period, I'm sure it wont last long!


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

i got 24" rods. $1.79 each. they appear to be very stiff, and the router does not appear to sag.

i am also working on a plywood version, but that has more challeneges for me. i am such a novice that the piece keeps coming off the fence a little and ruins the slot, so i have to start over. then, after making the slots, the long pieces flex more than I like. and if i use thicker plywood, then the hanger bolts are too short. even with the longest ones they had.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Chris Curl said:


> i got 24" rods. $1.79 each. they appear to be very stiff, and the router does not appear to sag.
> 
> i am also working on a plywood version, but that has more challeneges for me. i am such a novice that the piece keeps coming off the fence a little and ruins the slot, so i have to start over. then, after making the slots, the long pieces flex more than I like. and if i use thicker plywood, then the hanger bolts are too short. even with the longest ones they had.


What weight is the router?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hey " grumpy period " who me
> 
> That's one of the neat things about threaded rod if they are 28" long you can adjust them in easy,right down to 6" the norm..one size fits all ...plus you don't need a tank of a router..
> 
> ...


Bob my good friend, on many occasions you have mentioned that you have several DIFFERENT length ski rods so why do they need to be adjusted for length using allthread? I've been using my 27.5" skis for many years and for MANY projects and have never found the need to alter the length of the rods. Anyway, I have just posted a thread showing how members can thread smooth rods without the need for a metal lathe or even a machine vice so hopefully the sale of allthread will now drop dramitically! Additionally, no more side fence holes will be elongated. There, I feel better now and any grumpiness that I may have had has vanished, vanished into thin air! As for your apparent bout of grumpiness, you're forgiven, everyone is entitled to the occasional bout.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

harrysin said:


> What weight is the router?


I don't know. It is one of those $59 Ryobi fixed base routers, model R163K.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

A fixed base router is not the best choice for mounting onto skis Chris., it limits what can be done. Only if you try both a fixed base AND a plunge router will you understand why I say this.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

i think i do understand, harry, i also have 2 ryobi plunge routers that also use 3/8" rods. that i got cheap


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

OK Chris., don't waste any more time, make yourself a pair of 3/8" bright mild steel rods and thread the ends with a 3/8" x 16tpi die make the rods no longer than 24" for optimum performance, using one of the PLUNGE routers and I'll guarantee you wont be sorry.


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## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

Thank You,

This simple and "easy" to build.


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