# Best material to use for router table top ?



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok I'm not a machinist so cast iron is out , but was wondering about other materials .
I thought about melamine but it isn't very scratch resistant . Was thinking about laminating mdf with arborite (kitchen counter top stuff) but would be concerned about how flat the end result would be .
We get these killer deals here on occasion on 1" mdf , but the sheets are precut 5'by4' which would work fine IMO .
And yes I realize mdf as most materials should have some structural support underneath to prevent sagging over time . There's another thing I read here about phenolic coated wood.Not sure if I spelled that right ?


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## 94781 (Apr 24, 2013)

I have also read posts by some users on this forum that phenolic coated plywood has stayed flat and true for router table tops. Rockler carries it.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DoItMyselfToo said:


> I have also read posts by some users on this forum that phenolic coated plywood has stayed flat and true for router table tops. Rockler carries it.


I suspect Winsor plywood doesn't carry it


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I think it can also go under the name "formply".

Phenolic coated plywood used for concrete forms.....


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You must have missed the threads by me and Theo about our router tables. Mine was 5/8" melamine and Theo's is 1/2" ply. Mine is still flat after nearly 4 years (I gave it to my son-in-law recently) and Theo's is flat after more than 10 years. It's the frame underneath that matters. Mine also had grooves for t-track which made it only 1/4" thick in spots but I matched the grooves to the supports as closely as possible. A layer of counter top laminate is easy to apply and is very durable.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Check with a local cabinet shop. I get sink cutouts for free. Can't beat the price.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

For the two router tables I have built, two layers of MDF topped of with formica. Makes a great surface.


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## 94781 (Apr 24, 2013)

jw2170 said:


> I think it can also go under the name "formply".
> 
> Phenolic coated plywood used for concrete forms.....


Thanks for the tip, James. I believe my local home center either carries it or I saw an advert that it's available by special order.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> You must have missed the threads by me and Theo about our router tables. Mine was 5/8" melamine and Theo's is 1/2" ply. Mine is still flat after nearly 4 years (I gave it to my son-in-law recently) and Theo's is flat after more than 10 years. It's the frame underneath that matters. Mine also had grooves for t-track which made it only 1/4" thick in spots but I matched the grooves to the supports as closely as possible. A layer of counter top laminate is easy to apply and is very durable.


Thanks Charles, now I don't need to post. :laugh: :sarcastic:


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

We'll convince someone eventually Theo that the top doesn't need to be 1 1/2" thick or more to get the job done.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> We'll convince someone eventually Theo that the top doesn't need to be 1 1/2" thick or more to get the job done.


Tell you truth I like the idea of a lot of weight so the table doesn't move


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

RainMan1 said:


> Tell you truth I like the idea of a lot of weight so the table doesn't move


Anything large enough to move my table using gets routed handheld. The general rule of using power tools is that if it is large it is usually easier to take the tool to the work piece. With small pieces it's easier to take the work to the tool.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Anything large enough to move my table using gets routed handheld. The general rule of using power tools is that if it is large it is usually easier to take the tool to the work piece. With small pieces it's easier to take the work to the tool.


I suspected someone was going to say that lol . When I was looking at manufactured tables I thought they looked way to light, and that was half the reason I felt compelled to build my own .
It was going to be a tank too ,but your talking me out of it


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

My next one is going to be a lot heavier but only because I need storage under it.


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## plunger (Jun 21, 2013)

Would acrylic stock be good for a router table top?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

plunger said:


> Would acrylic stock be good for a router table top?


I think it would scratch to easy and not be smooth enough in the future


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well I talked to the main man at Windsor Plywood today and he can special order phenolic wood , but its very expensive . I think he quoted me around 84 dollars for a sheet . So after taxes pretty much 100 bucks . Not the end of the world if it proves to work well .

His opinion is to use mdf as the router tables in the back of his shop are mdf . People say mdf will sag , but I believe any material should be reinforced underneath . Well unless it's cast iron of course .

I want something prettier than mdf though . I guess I could take a chance and laminate it's, but liking the phenolic wood idea better. Although I've never see not before


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Rick, $100 is probably 1/2 what we would have to pay for it.......


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

jw2170 said:


> Rick, $100 is probably 1/2 what we would have to pay for it.......


Thank you , as I guess it's in the ball park then . Things are very expensive in Canada and more so in the province of BC .

I'm still elated that the GI table is no longer an issue . As I've mentioned previously real estate isn't fantastic in my garage , so if I can make a router table , work station ,and out feed table for my saw all in one I'll be laughing .
I'm still very hooked on the idea of lowering and raising the table for different applications . Just have to get a game plan now


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## shake this (Jan 5, 2012)

What is everyone's thought on using HDPE plastic(think cutting boards) for a router top? I have a sheet of 3/4 and 1/2". Easy to machine but would it gouge to easy? Any other concerns? This would be built on the side of my table saw to save space.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

shake this said:


> What is everyone's thought on using HDPE plastic(think cutting boards) for a router top? I have a sheet of 3/4 and 1/2". Easy to machine but would it gouge to easy? Any other concerns? This would be built on the side of my table saw to save space.


Not liking it at all . I'd ship it out to me to make room for something more solid like mdf

Seriously though it thinking it's to soft . At Winsor Plywood where there routing all day long they only use an mdf surface then replace it as it wears out . 
I'm tempted to use mdf also , but I'd sure like some laminate on top to make it a little more moisture and scratch resistant .(and more pleasing to the eye)
Not sure how flat it will turn out though after adding contact cement and counter top laminate .
But then again does a .001" or .01" discrepancy in flatness matter ?

I should put some type of jig to hold a straight edge over my kitchen counter tops and see how flat they are with my woodpecker dial gauge?


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## shake this (Jan 5, 2012)

Something tells me it's quite a bit more solid then MDF plus I'd hate to charge you the cost of shipping so I'll just keep it. haha


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

shake this said:


> Something tells me it's quite a bit more solid then MDF plus I'd hate to charge you the cost of shipping so I'll just keep it. haha


Dang , can't get nothing past you guys 
I was watching jaywalking on the Tonight Show and thought it would be fairly easy


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## mcpowell (Apr 29, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> As I've mentioned previously real estate isn't fantastic in my garage , so if I can make a router table , work station ,and out feed table for my saw all in one I'll be laughing .
> I'm still very hooked on the idea of lowering and raising the table for different applications . Just have to get a game plan now


Rick,
Have you looked at Ron Paulk's "Total Station"? It is exactly what you mentioned above. You can purchase the plans for $20 and watch him build one on youtube. It's 3'x6' with removable outriggers. When not in use, you can lean it against the wall and it will not take up much room. I am building one for my shop now.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

mcpowell said:


> Rick,
> Have you looked at Ron Paulk's "Total Station"? It is exactly what you mentioned above. You can purchase the plans for $20 and watch him build one on youtube. It's 3'x6' with removable outriggers. When not in use, you can lean it against the wall and it will not take up much room. I am building one for my shop now.


Not exactly what I'm looking for but very interesting . That guy has quite the setup there and it's portable .
Not quite understanding how he can cut anything more than a foot wide on the contractors saw though ?


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## mcpowell (Apr 29, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> Not exactly what I'm looking for but very interesting . That guy has quite the setup there and it's portable .
> Not quite understanding how he can cut anything more than a foot wide on the contractors saw though ?


The miter saw sits on a removable base. If the miter saw interferes with a wide board on the table saw, you can either slide the miter saw out a few inches or just take it off the table and set it on the floor. 

My table saw is too big to be incorporated into the bench, so I'm leaving the table saw out of mine. The one I'm building will be a router bench, miter saw combo only.


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