# Router as Jointer? Precision required.



## wingking (May 5, 2011)

I am a beginner luthier, also new to the forum.

I was wondering if anyone had experience using a router as a jointer. 
My goal is to create the tightest seam possible between two sets of thin plates 
(representing the top and back of the guitar).

The traditional luthier method involves a device called a shooting board. 

(I don't have permission to post a link yet, but google "shooting board" if you want to check one out)

I am ready and willing to go with the shooting board, however, I have this 
shiny new powerful router sitting next to me. I wanted to know if anyone could provide some insight on using router for jointing for guitars or in general.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I use my router to joint wood. It works well if you set it up right.
I use a special jointing fence. Basically just a straight piece of wood that is 2 mm wider on the outfeed side than it is on the infeed side.
You set the bit so it is level with the outfeed side, thus when your work piece is cut, it still runs straight along the fence.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Gavin's set up works well. I use a strip of formica or etc. on the outfeed fence.


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## wingking (May 5, 2011)

Sounds like it should work great. Any special considerations for what type of bit to use?


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Manageable, especially for light duty. Have had success to 2".
Some history & setup: Here.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Many router tables are setup with a split fence just for that type of job many of the high end fences have offset bars that come with them like the Kreg,Sommerfeld and more ,,,even the low end plastic Craftsman router tables are setup that way, you can use any type of bit with that type of fence, sometimes you don't want or need the complete profile of the bit that's when the fence comes into play or you want to use the router table as a jointer or do some lock miter joints, just about any time you use a bit without a bearing on it you want to use the off set fence way..

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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

wingking said:


> Sounds like it should work great. Any special considerations for what type of bit to use?


For the best results I would suggest a shear angle bit, such as item 5509 or7809 on this page
MLCS Flush Trim and Shear Angle Flush Trim Router Bits
or a spiral bit, found elsewhere on the same website. 

You said you have a router, but the responses so far have referred to router tables. Do you have a router table or do you need to try to joint hand held?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

You may also want to check out the new router bit kit out by MLCS


Flush Trim/Pattern Router Bit Kits,read text on web page.

MLCS Flush Trim and Shear Angle Flush Trim Router Bits

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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> You may also want to check out the new router bit kit out by MLCS
> 
> ...


Hi Bob - Just an FYI, the set you have pictured isn't a shear cut. I picked up that set about a month ago and was kinda disappointed it wasn't. :wacko:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi JOhn

shear cut is nice but not a must have thing at 20,000 rPM's 


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jschaben said:


> Hi Bob - Just an FYI, the set you have pictured isn't a shear cut. I picked up that set about a month ago and was kinda disappointed it wasn't. :wacko:


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

wingking said:


> Sounds like it should work great. Any special considerations for what type of bit to use?


I use this one MLCS solid carbide router bits

Scroll down to see the Spiral Flush trim Router Bit.
Just set the out feed, with the laminate, even with the bearing. Simple as pie.
My fences are all split fence and that's REAL easy. But, if you are making your own, the laminate on the out feed side of a solid fence is the way to go. Less complicated.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

wingking said:


> I am a beginner luthier, also new to the forum.
> 
> I was wondering if anyone had experience using a router as a jointer.
> My goal is to create the tightest seam possible between two sets of thin plates
> ...


Hi Dave:

Ok, a bunch of things here. Firstly, are you talking about the seam down the middle of the top and the sound board of the guitar? If you are, that seem has to be exact and the only way you/ll get that is with a shooting board and a really sharp plane. You'll shoot both sides of the seam at the same time.

Then, once you've done your glue up you're going to want to plane to thickness probably using instrument maker's planes on a shooting board. Somewhere on the 'net is a forum specifically for luthiers. Search them out. They're your best source of information and methods.

If you were intent on trying something of that ilk with a router, you'll be looking at the pendulum method combined with the saddle method. 

Hope this helps.


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## wingking (May 5, 2011)

jschaben said:


> You said you have a router, but the responses so far have referred to router tables. Do you have a router table or do you need to try to joint hand held?


First of all, I never considered the option of hand held for this...I'll think about that.

It is funny that you should mention the router table though. The work I have done in the past has been all hand tools. I took a very purist approach for a few years doing smaller projects. It was the only option then as money was tighter. I now feel ready to realize the benefits of power tools in my work. 

Routers are new to me. I just picked up my first one (Bosch 1617 combo) and have been reading up on basics and safety. I own a miter saw now as well. My plan is to build a new workbench that has a recess for the miter saw and I was thinking I should build a router table into the design. 

I have many years CAD experience and have been working up the plans for the past few days now that the router is here and I have precise dimensions. Woodworking is a hobby for me, not a job, so I don't mind any extra time spent building custom work tables, fences, clamps, jigs, etc.

Honestly though, my favorite part so far has been sharing ideas and solutions with my friends and you all. If you have any suggestions or input as to whether the build is feasible (I will probably try it either way, haha) or any input on building fences or something really cool you like about your bench or fence, feel free to share it. I have a lot to learn from you guys.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

*Jointing.*

This is what I use for jointing on the router table, you will of course, need a two piece fence, then off set the left hand half by inserting strips of formica or similar behind it, this will give you enough for the task in hand, by adjusting the fence to the cutter you can increase or decrease the ampount of timber removed at each pass, it has worked very well for me for many many years.

Picture.jpg (289.0 KB)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

No need to use a shooting board setup to get a real fit, if you do both parts to the boards at the same time the seam will always be just right, I got that tip from Bob R. when he was installing wall panels..you can also use a scroll saw the same way to get the nice tight fit...with a very fine blade installed. 

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allthunbs said:


> Hi Dave:
> 
> Ok, a bunch of things here. Firstly, are you talking about the seam down the middle of the top and the sound board of the guitar? If you are, that seem has to be exact and the only way you/ll get that is with a shooting board and a really sharp plane. You'll shoot both sides of the seam at the same time.
> 
> ...


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Gene Howe said:


> Gavin's set up works well. I use a strip of formica or etc. on the outfeed fence.


The Triton router table offers this natively. The two halves of the fence are attached with spring loaded bolts. They supply shims for setting the offset. You just pull the outfeed fence out a bit and drop a shim in, then release the fence.

For a suitable cutter, the 3/4" diameter, 2" long, 1/2" shank one at the bottom of this page is the one I use.
Router bits-Straight router bits, long series-CMT tools

Cheers

Peter


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

istracpsboss said:


> The Triton router table offers this natively. The two halves of the fence are attached with spring loaded bolts. They supply shims for setting the offset. You just pull the outfeed fence out a bit and drop a shim in, then release the fence.
> 
> For a suitable cutter, the 3/4" diameter, 2" long, 1/2" shank one at the bottom of this page is the one I use.
> Router bits-Straight router bits, long series-CMT tools
> ...


I wish I had of thought of that before I sold my Triton Router table....:cray: :cray::cray::cray:


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