# Freehand routing



## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Well, I got 3 pictures that look like they are going to show up as attachments. They are a double sided sign, I made for a friend of mine's wife who started her own newpaper. They are not done yet, in these pictures, but the majority of the heavy routing is completed. The borders have to be straighted out and squared up yet and then the sign had to be glued togther and a frame made to wrap around the whole bussiness . I wanted to put these up so you can see what I was talking about, by routing freehand. I used that tracing method I mentioned in an earlier post, to get the image on the wood and then just routed away what I did not want. The letters and the image of the eagle stand about a 1/4 inch up from the backround of the sign. It took a couple of hours to do each side, and I used a 1/4 inch ball nosed solid carbide bit to do the routing near the letters and image and then switched to a larger flat bottomed bit of maybe a 1/2 inch or so diameter so it would clear a larger area, faster. 
The last picture is of 2 name plates I made for my barber and his apprentice, It was done using the same method as "the Eagle" sign.
As I said, when you use your router freehand,,, there are no limits to the designs or images you can put on a sign, unlike being tied to a template and have to always make that shape letters.

Well, here goes,,, hope the attachments make the trip.


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## GoonMan (Mar 22, 2005)

Hello Terry,

Those Signs look great. Did you Freehand the Vet with the trim Router.   

I see you were able to attache Images.


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Terry very nice job on your signs did you do the lettering free handed or did you use a template to trace the letters. Now I have an idea didn't know you could a smaller version router for doing the lettering. I always thought you used it just for trimmg.


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

Great work, Terry. 
I was just going to post a question about getting a new router that I can use to make signs like that. I have a big Hitachi M12V that is too bulky, I think, for free hand type of work. So, need that second router. Can you (and everyone else) please tell me what you use, what to look for in a smaller router that I can use to route signs??
Thanks,
~Julie~


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Hahahaha,,, sadly, the ol'vette could use a bit of routing,, but I have not had time to get to it, Randy. It was just the closest thing to the house that I saw to lean the signs against to take the pictures ,,, so it got used.

Glenn, I got the image on the wood by using carbon paper under a sign that my buddy had made at a sign shop, out of vinyl, that you would stick on the side of your truck or wall or what ever. I just laid it on top of the wood slab and put carbon paper under the vinyl sign and outlined the letters and eagle with a pencil. If you look closely at the picture,, you can see the outlines made by the pencil, on the blue letters of the vinyl. So when you take up the vinyl and carbon paper,, you have the outline in dark lines on the wood,,,, and the rest is easy,,,, just rout out what you do not want,,, 
I made a blanket chest for a christmas present last year,, and I routed out the scripted letter H on the front side of it. I used the other method of using an Opaque Projector to shoot the image of the "H" on the front pannel of the chest, When you get it to the right size you want, by moving the projector closer or farther away from the chest,, just outline the image you are projecting on the pannel, with a pencil, When you turn off the projector,, you are left with an outline of what ever you were projecting on that pannel. It works fantastic..
And with those small routers,,, they are so easy to hold and contrlol with that larger base plate with the dowels at the edges, you will be amazed at just how much they will actually do. Also, the dowels at the edges,, keep your fingers a LONG way from the cutters, so not much chance of an accident between your fingers and the router bits. And like I said,, if you buy them from Harbor Freight,,, they are so doggone cheap,,, I just buy several of them and just leave the different profile bits in them so I do not have to change them ,, just pick up a different router and carry on with the sign.. But they are noisy little buggers,, so ear muffs are a good idea.


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## GoonMan (Mar 22, 2005)

Visteonguy said:


> Hahahaha,,, sadly, the ol'vette could use a bit of routing,, but I have not had time to get to it, Randy. It was just the closest thing to the house that I saw to lean the signs against to take the pictures ,,, so it got used.
> 
> Glenn, I got the image on the wood by using carbon paper under a sign that my buddy had made at a sign shop, out of vinyl, that you would stick on the side of your truck or wall or what ever. I just laid it on top of the wood slab and put carbon paper under the vinyl sign and outlined the letters and eagle with a pencil. If you look closely at the picture,, you can see the outlines made by the pencil, on the blue letters of the vinyl. So when you take up the vinyl and carbon paper,, you have the outline in dark lines on the wood,,,, and the rest is easy,,,, just rout out what you do not want,,,
> I made a blanket chest for a christmas present last year,, and I routed out the scripted letter H on the front side of it. I used the other method of using an Opaque Projector to shoot the image of the "H" on the front pannel of the chest, When you get it to the right size you want, by moving the projector closer or farther away from the chest,, just outline the image you are projecting on the pannel, with a pencil, When you turn off the projector,, you are left with an outline of what ever you were projecting on that pannel. It works fantastic..
> And with those small routers,,, they are so easy to hold and contrlol with that larger base plate with the dowels at the edges, you will be amazed at just how much they will actually do. Also, the dowels at the edges,, keep your fingers a LONG way from the cutters, so not much chance of an accident between your fingers and the router bits. And like I said,, if you buy them from Harbor Freight,,, they are so doggone cheap,,, I just buy several of them and just leave the different profile bits in them so I do not have to change them ,, just pick up a different router and carry on with the sign.. But they are noisy little buggers,, so ear muffs are a good idea.




Great Work Sir and no offence meant on the vet. It makes a great back drop for the signs.

Also thanks for the tips and Ideals you have given me and others. I was wondering how I was going to do my sign routing now I know.


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Dont worry, Randy,, I took it with the sense of humor it was ment,,,
Try making a simple sign like that and you will be ready to take on the world then in making signs,,, It is Sooooooooo easy once you finnish your first sign you'll have all the confidence ya will ever need then.
I took a few classes at work in the art of wood carving,,, we used Fordom tools,, ( where the electric motor hangs on a stand and the power is transmitted through a cable to the hand peice) It was a fish carving class and I never done that before,,,, once the instructor showed us the secrets to carving,,,, we each amazed ourself with what we produced,,,, the first fish I did was a rain bow trout,,, then we did a blue gill,, and the last one I did was a perch,,, all the fish came out better then I believed I could ever do,,, but you could see the improvments with each fish... I was carrying the last one to the car after the class was over and walked by a guy in the hall way,,,,, he took a look at the fish and was only about 2 feet away from it,,, and ask me,,, " Where did ya catch it"? and he ment it !!! hahahah He would not believe it was a peice of wood !!
I told you this story just to say that I think if you utilized that craft also in these wood signs,,,,, you would make some signs that would not be believed,,,,, like that one I made with the eagle off to the side,,,, if you took the time to carve in the feathers and details of the eyes and beak all in relief...
I bet once you displayed them ,,, you could actually make a good living off those signs,,


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Well Terry it's all your fault. Had to find one of them little routers. Yes I found and bought one today. Grizzly's only plunge router had to explain to the loml that it was on sale that will make 6 router's I own now. Thanks good job I'm going to enjoy it. Now she already requesting signs and I don't even have it yet. Has me doing signs that say mine.


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Hahahaha,,,,,atta boy Glenn... as long as ya are producin for the little lady,,, she will probalby go along with the new tools,,, just show her how much you are savin by making it your self....

show me your sign when ya get er done,,,


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## GoonMan (Mar 22, 2005)

ROFLMAO Terry.

I have always said the only thing I could draw was flies. Now I want to make signs. LOL   

I had to take a closer look at the large signs to see that you were gluing your boards. It threw me for a minute.

I had bought a Sign Crafter and had problems with it so it went back for a refund and I was trying to figure out what to do next Now that you have posted your pics it has given me a whole new direction to go into. Is your base for the trim router home made? You may have already been asked this question or I missed it. Again thanks for sharing.  I think HF may get a visit from me I have 4 signs to make now.


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Randy I think that is the problem with them sign crafters and other sign templates I had problems because the base and router's were to heavy and the base to bulky. I'm thinking a smaller router will work with them. I also like the way Terry's came out I made a sign just using chisels it's not bad but I would probably get a better sign using Terry's method. I'm going to try it won't be the first piece of wood I threw out.


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## GoonMan (Mar 22, 2005)

Glenmore said:


> Randy I think that is the problem with them sign crafters and other sign templates I had problems because the base and router's were to heavy and the base to bulky. I'm thinking a smaller router will work with them. I also like the way Terry's came out I made a sign just using chisels it's not bad but I would probably get a better sign using Terry's method. I'm going to try it won't be the first piece of wood I threw out.



LOL Glenmore I have plenty of Scrap I can either glue up and use or for a nice fire this winter. (The wife wants to help me clean up my scrap pile and I told her no thank you I would not have anything left. It drive her crazy when she comes out to the Garage. I have plenty of miscut pieces that I have reused and now that I have the Pallets broke down I can trial for nothing.


Julie I am going to go back on my dislikes and give HF a try on a trim Router Or even a Router. I talked to a friend mine yesterday who buys their Chicago tools and abuses them terribily. He says they are cheap and takes what he gives them. But when he buys them he knows that it is a cheap tool. I asked him if he lives at HF and his wife said just about.

My mom bought a RotoZip she wants me to take and use, so I am going to try it out as soon as I can make a trip to Texas and pick it up.

Do not get me wrong when I can afford a good trim Router I am buying one.


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

Julie said:


> Great work, Terry.
> I was just going to post a question about getting a new router that I can use to make signs like that. I have a big Hitachi M12V that is too bulky, I think, for free hand type of work. So, need that second router. Can you (and everyone else) please tell me what you use, what to look for in a smaller router that I can use to route signs??
> Thanks,
> ~Julie~


 Hi Julie,

We had some postings on trim routers a while back, see if this gets you going:
www.routerforums.com/showthread.php?t=1104

Ed


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Randy, the base I made for the trim routers,,, is just a scrap peice of plexiglass,,, I have a couple of sizes mounted to a couple of small routers.... of course... if ya make larger base plates.. then you can make larger signs,,, its all about how far you can span with the router, still being supported on all sides or at least most sides so it will not tip and gouge into the sign,, which does tend to tick ya off then,, I would not make it any smaller then maybe 9 inches square... and if ya can go larger,, its better,,,
I use a solid carbide 2 flute, ball nose, end mill for the routing close to the letters or image,, and switch to a flat bottom router bit of maybe 3/8's diameter and some times even a 1/2 inch diameter flat bottom bit to clear larger areas that are NOT near the letters or images.. but you have to be careful when you start to use larger diameter bits because they start to get a bit grabby so you have to be on your guard to not let the router get away from you and rip into wood you DO NOT want to remove.
I use ball nose end mills because they have a nice spiral to the flutes and they slice out the wood maybe a bit easier then the straight flutes of regular router bits .. You can find web sites that deal in metal cutting end mills and I think you can buy them quite cheaply compaired to Router bits,,,, especially if you go with just high speed steal mills instead of solid carbide. I have not had to buy these end mills ( 1/4 inch ) ,, because I ,,, ah have a supplier of them,,, hehehe that we will not talk about here,,, hahahah
But I have bought 1/2 inch ball nosed end mills that are a full 1/2 inch diameter the full lenght, and I have stuck them in my larger routers that will accept half inch shank bits.. and they work fine. And they are NOT carbide.... just high speed steel,, and I think I only paid about something like $4 or so each for them,,, new ... but they are made in china or some where... compair them to 1/2 inch shank core box bits,, ( I think they are called,,,in router lingo )... and you have saved quite a bit.
The only draw back to using ball nosed bits are that you are cutting a radius groove,,, so you end up with a lot of going back over and over trying to knock down all the little peaks you are leaving on the bottom of the sign. Thats why I switch to the flat bottom bits because they cut a Flat bottom,,, just make sure its set to EXACTLY the same depth of cut as the ball nose was cutting and they do a great job cleaning up the bottom of the sign.
Harbor Freight is gonna sell some trim routers now I can see that,,, hahahah

I have been taking some air brush classes at work and the instructor recomended buying a 2 stage air brush,,, he told the students that you can buy a particular air brush at a hobby shop down the road,,, a few of them ran out and got the thing at the hobby shop... I looked in the HF.catalog and low and behold,,, there it was,,, same exact one the hobby shop was selling,,
only thing that was different was they paid the hobby shop a shade over a hundred bucks for theirs,, and my credit card was charged,, $42 for mine,,, From HF. As you can tell,,, I love the place...


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

You can save a lot of money by purchasing solid cabide end mills instead of straight bits. If they can plunge into and cut a straight sided flat bottomed groove in aluminum they will work fine in the hardest of wood. I have used them for many years and have not had any resharpened.

regards

jerry


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

One thing that just popped into my mellon,, and it could come in handy for anyone that is going to do the freehand routing,,, Even if you do have a laps of concentration and let the router bite into wood you did not want to remove,, don't be upset too much, because they can be fixed easily,, I will repost this picture so you can see where to look for my repair, I was happily routing away and all of a sudden I realised I took off some wood I did not mean to remove,,, I was half way done with the sign and was sick,,, thought I would either have to toss the sign and start over from scratch, or convince her to change her name. Then I thought oh well,,, got nothing to loose anyway ,,, so I just changed to the flat bottom bit and cleared away half of the letter,,, maybe I should have done the whole letter, but I was not thinking that fast,,, as usual. Anyway all I did was glue another peice of wood on the newly flatened area of the sign and redrew my letter and then routed the wood away again,,,,, it worked beautiful,, except I did not take the time to find a peice of wood with the same shade of wood,,,, but so far nobody has noticed,

But if you look on the bottom sign, and look at the middle of her name, you can see the front side of the letter A is slightly different color,. That is the patch I glued in. If the sign had been painted instead of stained,,, you would never have known about it. 

So you see,,, even if you Do screw up,,, you can usually fix it with no problems,, so try it,,, its easy.


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Opps,, I guess ya can only post a picture once per thread,, so I guess if you want to see the patch,, you will have to go back to the first page and look at the bottom of the #1 post,,, sorry.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Terry, nice work on the signs. Especially for freehand. I noticed from your pictures you used pull dowels for handles on your router plate. I wouldn't have thought to use them. I figured you must be a tradesman, so I checked your profile. I know what you mean by your supplier. I also had on, but now am retired. Thanks for all the information on how you do yours, might try one myself. Keep up the good work.

Dave
the "Doctor"


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Thanks Dave, Yes those pull dowels work nice but most people would not know what your are talking about and would not have access to them anyway,,, but they were readilyl available and already tapped so they were beggin to be used.
But I would not be afraid to just use wood peices in their place. Congradulations on your retirement,,, I still got about 10 years to go,, but was lucky enough to snag a voluntary lay off for most of this summer  

I told em I will come back after next week is over,,, being lucky enough to get all this time off gave me a good jump on this room redo I am in the middle of now... biggest wood working project I have done yet,,,.. Any way good luck with your signage,,, you'll have a ball doing it.


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## EPC (Aug 16, 2005)

*Free hand routing*

After reading Terry's posts on ball nose end mills & flat bottom bits I started looking at a book in my shop KBC tools & machinery(www.kbctools.com). Talk about choices. At least Terry narrowed it down on what to use/buy. Before I ordered or checked Harbor Freight, I wondered.
Has anyone ever used the dremel with its router attachment for free hand lettering? Dremel does have many high speed cutting bits. 
EPC


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## fibertech (May 7, 2005)

Perhaps if Bob and Rick see this, they could do an episode on making signs and other items of this topic.


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## EPC (Aug 16, 2005)

*end mills*



EPC said:


> After reading Terry's posts on ball nose end mills & flat bottom bits I started looking at a book in my shop KBC tools & machinery(www.kbctools.com). Talk about choices. At least Terry narrowed it down on what to use/buy. Before I ordered or checked Harbor Freight, I wondered.
> Has anyone ever used the dremel with its router attachment for free hand lettering? Dremel does have many high speed cutting bits.
> EPC


Thanks Terry,
I'll check e-bay.
Ed


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## reds_21 (Dec 24, 2004)

just a quick summary question,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

is the trim router nothing more than a baby sized "big" router? is it the same thing, just smaller? iv'e purchased one through www.homier.com (thanks to terry) and have actually never used one before (trim router).

besides, the price for a 15 piece router bit set along with the router only came to 26 dollars and some change (including tax/shipping) not bad at all, especially when it's a nice hit or miss!!!!!! :sold: 

shawn


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

You got it, Shawn... just a small router,, used for light duty routing jobs, when using a full sized router is maybe just too bulky

That little bugger you ordered should give you a good chance to get your feet wet as far as using small routers,,, use it for a while and you will get a feel for the times when the job calls for a larger router.. but with the right attachments, you will be supprised how much you might find yourself using the smaller one,, and the great thing is,,, you spent practically nothing to get started.


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## reds_21 (Dec 24, 2004)

if i knew that,,,,,,,,i could have used it on the shadow box that im making right now. i used the big router and the project is so small that it was difficult to use the router. made it a big struggle. now i can't wait to get this trim router!!!!!!!!!! i wish i would have known!!!!!!!

shawn


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## GoonMan (Mar 22, 2005)

Hello Terry,

The trim router came in handy today since I forgot to round over the legs to the new cedar table I am building before gluing them into place. It now sports a small round over bit but will soon have a small corebox bit mounted and used for some signs I am going to try my luck at free hanging them. Trying to get a load of stuff made to take to family in Texas. If gas prices will drop a little lower soon then I can make the trip.

I have a piece of Pretty Oak Pallet wood that I am going to make a Office door sign for my sister after I try my luck on some scrap.

Thanks for the suggestion of the trim Router. I may purchase another one from HF soon. LOL


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Hi Randy..... 

yes, those little routers have their place in the world,,, I used one of mine to round over the whole arch way around the room I am redoing now, and also the molding around the edge of the dormer on the other side of the room,,, With a 1 inch round over bit,,, I thought, maybe I was asking it to do a bit more then it would handle,,, but it worked like a charm,,, Its not a full sized,, heavy duty router,, but they will still do an amazing amount of work,,,

Reds21 ordered one of those small routers from a company that I think, Pop Pop posted up here,,, they were selling a trim router for just $9.99 !!!! ,,,, not sure if he pluged it in yet but when he spins it,,, maybe he will tell us how it worked and if its going to work for what we want it to,,

He said he got the order in just one day !!! so I ordered some stuff to see if the shipping was that fast for real,,,, and I was amazed,,, I ordered it on the net a little past midnight when I got home from work and it was just dropped off by the UPS truck a few minutes ago,,, so it really does take only 1 day to get your stuff,,, amazing company !!!

Oh yeah I almost forgot to say the name, hahahah its www.homier.com


When ya get the sign done,,, post a picture of it,,, I would get a kick out of seeing it...


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## reds_21 (Dec 24, 2004)

just an update,,,,,,,,,,the website that terry told you about the trim router is actually www.homier.com, if you click on homeier.com you get taken to some foreign web site.............i was lost there for a minute!!!!!  

shawn


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## reds_21 (Dec 24, 2004)

yes, i have received the trim router but have yet to put it to the test. i turned it on but thats about it. i am hoping to run into some wood with it this weekend!!!!! i will most definately keep you updated on the quality!!!!

shawn


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Thanks Shawn for the link I couldn't believe the prices incrediable. Dirt cheap yeah keep us informed of the quality might go there and do some shopping.


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## GoonMan (Mar 22, 2005)

Hello Glenmore,

I have already been to Homier and have built myself a wish list. I can send it too you if you are placing a order soon. LOL   I wish they were here in my area. It would be great to be able to shop at both HF and Homier.

I just finished building my second table and now time for a little light sanding and then the Liquid Iron stain.


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## vagabon1 (Aug 25, 2008)

how much do these small routers cost if you don,t mine.thanks they sound like they would be easier to use for my signs, thanks again.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi vagabon1

You can get a small router from 25.oo dollars to about 100.oo dollars, you don't need a high end router to make signs BUT I do recommend the Bosch Colt....

here's some links for just some of thems 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44914
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/marvel_3in1_router.html
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_hi?url=search-alias=tools&field-keywords=bosch+colt&x=15&y=23

=========



vagabon1 said:


> how much do these small routers cost if you don,t mine.thanks they sound like they would be easier to use for my signs, thanks again.


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## CdG (Aug 24, 2008)

Im new to this magical forum I was admiring your work & just thought I would add my appreciation & where do you guys come up with these hysterical quotes?even if were only rubbing virtual shoulders it really motivates me to greater things..thank you & agood weekahead to you & yours..Charlie(CdG) France


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

vagabon1 said:


> how much do these small routers cost if you don,t mine.thanks they sound like they would be easier to use for my signs, thanks again.



Check here: http://www.princessauto.com/PAcountry.cfm?CTRY=CAN&INF=home Canada's answer to Harbour Freight.

Brian


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## aljonama (Aug 31, 2008)

Hello Terry,

my name is albert, living in cologne (germany). So, i'm a new member in this forum an my hobb's are woodworking. First of all, sorry my english. I have read your thread and it is very cool what you made. But my question is:

What kind of router and bits you used and if you like can you give me tips about modification for the router (like Plexglas Plate.."

thank you so much

Albert


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Hi Albert,, nice to hear from you,,, Actually you can use just about any router for making a sign,, but I like to use just a small, trim router, smaller the better. just because its not so tiring, manuvering it around. The base plates on these things are maybe only about 3 or so inches square, so it works better if you make a much larger base plate for it. I would make it at least 10 or 12 inches square, even larger if your making a very large sign wouldn't hurt. The reason for the large foot print of your base is, as the spaces between your letters or images, get farther apart,, the large base plate will span that space and not let the router tip into the sign, as it would if you just used the small origonal base plate.

It works well if you attach 2 handles so you can control the router,,, put them oposing each other at two oposite edges of the plate. so you can rest your palms on the work piece and just use your thumb and forfinger to hold and move the router.

As far as the bits go. I like to use end mills, from the metal working trade. They look about like router bits and do about the same thing. My job involves machining metals so I have access to them and just started to use em and they have worked out well for me. You can buy them on Ebay for very good prices, but you can buy them right from tooling catalogs just as easy and like I said, they work well and are priced right. I usually use 3/8 inch solid carbide, 2 flute, either ball or flat end, endmills. Regular router bits will also work for this. and actually if you wanted to use smaller cutters then 3/8's inch, its easier to just use router bits.

These links show that base plate,, I was looking for an old post that showed more pictures but could not find it ,, but its on here,, there are several pictures of signs others made also,, but if you get stuck,, just post the question up here and some one will come up with an answer for you. Looking forward to seeing your signs, Albert,, once ya get going on them,, you will see they are pretty easy to make after all, then get ready for the request ya will be getting from your friends for signs they would like to have.

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/2960-free-hand-router-sign-2.html

http://www.routerforums.com/portable-routing/3724-free-hand-sign-2.html


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the forums Albert. Your English is fine.


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## aljonama (Aug 31, 2008)

Hello,

thank you so much for the fast answer Terry and Dr. Zook,

Here a little more details about me. As already said, my name
is Albert. I living in Kerpen-Buir (a smal Village near Cologne). My occupation 
was Network - Administrator (Gerling - Insurance at Cologne). My
hobby are Woodworking. I love Woodworking. My Hardware - Tools
are all of Festool. Which however still gladly to learn Signcarving with the Router.
And there, i have still another Question to Terry or dlane6110.

1. Terry, from which manufacturer is your router, or if there another good and
cheap Router. The reason for this question is, can i get
the Router in Germany (you now, Germany has 220 V)
2. Terry or dlane6110 (Please can you help me to make the Plate...) 


Thank's all so much

Albert


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Hi Albert, Sorry,, I did not see your post, The small routers I like to use , I got from a company here,, called Harbor freight. The prices seem to fluctuate and I think I have bought them for as cheap as $14.99. And there is another company here called Homier, that sells em for as little as $9.99. I had to get a couple of them just to see if they worked,,, hahaha,, they did,, of course, they may not run for years,, but they did what I asked em to do. But they are !10 volt and 60 cycles,, I am thinking you maybe work on 220 volts and 50 cycles over there ? But again, I have not looked at any of them in maybe a year or two now, so maybe those prices have went up, with the increase in oil prices and what that does to shipping and manufacturing cost.

But really, any router will work for you. Its just that smaller ones are easier to handle and move around your work piece.

Best way I found to make a big plate is to take off the plate from your router and tape it to the piece of plexiglass you are going to use to make your new big plate. Make sure its taped down so it DOES NOT MOVE... and then carefully drill down though the 4 holes that the screws go through that mount the orgional plate to your router. Then remove the orgional plate. MAKE SURE you know what side the router will attach to, and then either counter bore or counter sink the other side so the screw heads will not stick up above the surface of the new plate,, put a router bit in your router and then attach the new big plate to the router. Once ya are all tightened down,, place the router on a piece of scrap wood,, and turn it on, and slowly lower the router down till it cuts a hole through the new big plate. You will want that hole larger then the router bit you will end up using to carve out your sign. I most of the time. use a 1/4 inch dia. bit. But here again,, there are no rules,, use what ever makes the most sense for you at the time, depending on how large your sign is. I usually end up just drilling the center hole out to the same size as the orgional base plate hole and be done with it. Also, dont forget to drill a hole near 2 opposing edges, counter sink the bottom side of that hole and use a flat head screw and screw it into a wooden dowl to make a couple of handles so you can control the router.

If you have any more questions, I or any one else on this forum will be glad to try and answer them for you. Do you use the comunication program called "Skype", Albert ? A bunch of us use that program and get on there quite a bit to just chat and shoot the breeze. Its free and a great way to comunicate and you can get your questions answered right away.


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## aljonama (Aug 31, 2008)

hi terry,

i have downloaded skype and installed, but how can i used that programm 

thanks albert


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## idigjars (Sep 1, 2008)

Terry, awesome job! The signs look great, thank you for sharing the pics with us.

Paul


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Great,, ALbert,,,, I will get with Glennmore and see how to get ahold of ya,,, hahaha,, I am hardly the computer expert here,, so now I will now go to the big Kahona on talk ,,,,, I will get back with ya,,,


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Thanks Paul,,, they are a ton of fun to make and easy to do,,, sure gets you a lot of notice when ya get one done,,, Give her a shot, and show us what ya come up with.


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Paul pm Terry with your your skype name and he can look it up and add you to his contacts. Then he will be able to call you and talk to you. And if you add skype to your profile here all that have skype can get into contact with you. Hope this helps you out.


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## vagabon1 (Aug 25, 2008)

thanks for the input everyone i appreciate it.


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## aljonama (Aug 31, 2008)

Hi Terry,

sorry fo so many question about signcarving from me, but a have big question:
Did You made a Router with Plate for friend before like this :

? If yes, i will send You Dollars for the Hardware and your Work. In Germany it's so stuppid to get the right Hardware. If You have no Time. no Problem

Thanks so much Albert


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Hi Albert, Glennmore showed me how to get your name on my contact list on Skype,, when you get a chance to go on there,,, we can chat and I can walk you though that plate,, its so easy to make,, nothing to it,,,

I have your name on my list now,, so when you are running skype, your name should light up on my screen,,


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## Rout-4-you (Sep 4, 2008)

*Plexiglass subbase*

Hi Terry.....
Could you tell me ...what size Plexiglas, did you use for the router’s subbase.....and did you use the original screws that came with that trim router. I have the same router and man those screws are really small. any advise on this would be great.....thanks


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## Visteonguy (Aug 6, 2005)

Sorry Rout4you, I missed your post,, I used a piece of Plexiglass 1/4 inch thick about 10 or 12 inches square. You remove the base plate that is on your router, and use that as a template to drill the holes in your new large base plate. Remember, you are NOT putting the original small base plate back on,, but replacing it with the new big plate,so you are not really much thicker then before. You have to counter bore the plate so the screw heads do not stick up above the surface of the new plate,, so the old screws, even though they are not very big, should work fine.


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## Rout-4-you (Sep 4, 2008)

Visteonguy said:


> Sorry Rout4you, I missed your post,, I used a piece of Plexiglass 1/4 inch thick about 10 or 12 inches square. You remove the base plate that is on your router, and use that as a template to drill the holes in your new large base plate. Remember, you are NOT putting the original small base plate back on,, but replacing it with the new big plate,so you are not really much thicker then before. You have to counter bore the plate so the screw heads do not stick up above the surface of the new plate,, so the old screws, even though they are not very big, should work fine.


Thanks Terry.....Got the base plate done today...yea!!!! Hope to try it out soon thank you so much for the great info 

You have a great day!

Rick


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## Redeemed59 (Jul 12, 2013)

*Free hand routing out pictures*

I just started routing out pictures on wood freehand and I can't seem to find anyone that does that, I find scrollsaw patterns and draw them on wood and rout out all the places that would normally be cut out with a scroll saw, I rout them out about 1/4" deep, then I stain all the cut area and sand off the excess stain. Does anyone else do this out there?

Thanks
Vern


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, Vern.

I had not thought of that way.


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## MartinW (Jun 26, 2013)

Welcome to the forum, Vern !

This sounds similar to some techniques I have seen in the signs making section of this forum already. Non the less, it's good idea, and probably faster than scrollsawing

Martin


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