# Dovetail jig comparison testing



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

We get a lot of questions about which dovetail jig works best or how to make adjustments to them. As a result we will start reviewing the different types of dovetail jigs in this thread. We will include photos and thoughts from the Detroit area forum members as we work with them. All of the jigs work but some are easier to use than others. I am posting this now to give forum members a chance to ask questions about the different jigs so we can try to answer them.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Mike said:


> We get a lot of questions about which dovetail jig works best or how to make adjustments to them. As a result we will start reviewing the different types of dovetail jigs in this thread. We will include photos and thoughts from the Detroit area forum members as we work with them. All of the jigs work but some are easier to use than others. I am posting this now to give forum members a chance to ask questions about the different jigs so we can try to answer them.


Will follow this thread. Looking forward to it.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Mike said:


> We get a lot of questions about which dovetail jig works best or how to make adjustments to them. As a result we will start reviewing the different types of dovetail jigs in this thread. We will include photos and thoughts from the Detroit area forum members as we work with them. All of the jigs work but some are easier to use than others. I am posting this now to give forum members a chance to ask questions about the different jigs so we can try to answer them.



Make sure you include the Gifkins Jig, Mike.......:yes4:


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

Please test and try out the Harbor Freight Dovetail Machine. I got one because I want to do box joints for speaker cabinets - ALA Fender style pine box amps. Thanks from a former Big D guy in Nashville, TN.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

James, I will try to get a Gifkins jig.

Mark, the HF jig is identical to the first Rockler jig and we have one of those available for the test.

I am sad to announce that Leigh does not wish to participate in the testing. At least their web site has a lot of information.

We will be testing the Katie Jig Jr. It is a version of the popular full sized model designed for use with materials from 1/8" to 1/2" thickness.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I am pleased to announce that Woodrat will be included in the dovetail jig testing.


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

I got the newer HF dovetail machine, which has an aluminum template. I've read that this has rather sharp edges that will need to sanded off, but should work fine after that is done. I am still not really sure how I can make box joints with square insides on the board that the router would run on. Generally, cylindrical bits create a radius cut on their edge - or am I missing something?


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## cliffmid (Nov 6, 2012)

Looking forward to what you guys find. I'm getting to buy a dt jig.

cliff


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

mgdesigns said:


> I got the newer HF dovetail machine, which has an aluminum template. I've read that this has rather sharp edges that will need to sanded off, but should work fine after that is done. I am still not really sure how I can make box joints with square insides on the board that the router would run on. Generally, cylindrical bits create a radius cut on their edge - or am I missing something?


Hi Mark...had the same issue with making box joints...took a hint from the General I have...I did one board at a time with consideration for the offset...worked good if you measure accurately when the second board goes in. I'm thinking if the wood is thin enough you could do both by lining up the offset. Mine came with the aluminum template and it did have sharp edges but not enough to worry...the bearing rode smoothly...

Nick


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Mike said:


> We get a lot of questions about which dovetail jig works best or how to make adjustments to them. As a result we will start reviewing the different types of dovetail jigs in this thread. We will include photos and thoughts from the Detroit area forum members as we work with them. All of the jigs work but some are easier to use than others. I am posting this now to give forum members a chance to ask questions about the different jigs so we can try to answer them.


"It is a great thing you do"...thanks...Nick


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## Chief2156 (Jan 25, 2013)

I'm looking forward to this. I have a jig setting in my shop that is brand new and I have never used it. Why? I don't know how to. But I will. Thank's Mike and everyone taking part in the testing.
Chief2156


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## MotownJG (Jan 8, 2013)

I know what a "dovetail" is, have seen videos on Youtube, Woodsmith magazine and other places on how to make them, but for the life of me I haven't been able to bring myself to buy an expensive jig for occasional use.

Watching you....................


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## almost there (Apr 12, 2011)

Mike, documentation and info available at leigh is worth much


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

the gifkin'g jig is the one i have, boutht it when they first came out from 
Roger , it is the easeyest to use, 2 set ups and perfect every time cut's tales and pin's , by just turning the jig aroung, I have 2 tables with 2 bits, so i cut tales and than go over to the next table and cut the pin's , done, i bet i can cut and be done before most can use other jig's.This one may cost more but in time it save's me, i use every day my 2 cent's


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The Gifkins jig and the Katie Jig are almost the same. There is one major difference: with the Gifkins jig you use a fixed template plate for your dovetail spacing; if you want different spacing you must buy another template plate. You can adjust the Katie jig... no additional purchase required for different spacing.

My two heaters can not overpower the cold temps we are having so the testing is on hold for a bit. If you have questions about the different jigs please post them here and we will get to them asap.


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## Genel41 (Feb 6, 2013)

There is one made of aluminium 15 inches long and once you get set you don't have to move it . You just need to set you router for right depth . and it is only $49.00 at Router Bits, Woodworking Supplies, Woodworking Tools - EagleAmerica.com


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## Genel41 (Feb 6, 2013)

You got to try it just don't lift you router until the router stops or you will damage the templet fingers with the spinning router blades


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Genel41 said:


> There is one made of aluminium 15 inches long and once you get set you don't have to move it . You just need to set you router for right depth . and it is only $49.00 at Router Bits, Woodworking Supplies, Woodworking Tools - EagleAmerica.com


This one, I assume...

Router Jigs - EZ Pro Dovetail Jig Kit


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Well, Mike I have the same problem you have to cold to work in my shop. In other words, I have a bad case of cabin fever. I am however looking forward to these reviews of the different dovetail jigs.


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## dvto2 (Nov 12, 2012)

*EZ Pro*



Dmeadows said:


> This one, I assume...
> 
> Router Jigs - EZ Pro Dovetail Jig Kit


I've looked at this several times. It seems pretty straight forward and possibly a good value for the price. I just have a few drawers to do so I might give this a try.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Mike,
Do you think that the Incra Jig will or is qualified to be one of the jigs in you compariason plans or it so differenct from a dedicated jig that you will not consider it as a main line jig? I for one, really like the Incra but have never used anything else so I am not qualified to say anything one way or another.

Jerry


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

dvto2 said:


> I've looked at this several times. It seems pretty straight forward and possibly a good value for the price. I just have a few drawers to do so I might give this a try.


I have one...worked like a champ...but 1/4 in hold down clamps are a bit flimsy and wood may move when using on table...


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## Gimmo (Mar 10, 2013)

is the Incra LS system included in this test? I just got one and haven't gotten it set up yet. Curious what others think about them.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Gimmo said:


> is the Incra LS system included in this test? I just got one and haven't gotten it set up yet. Curious what others think about them.


Welcome to the forum Stan. 

I can't speak for Mike's test, but 3 months ago i bought an old Incra Pro (16") for my router table. Hasn't been warm enough to do much, but i like it a lot for what i have gotten to do. So much so that i added a Wonder Fence, and last Friday a 32" TS-LS arrived and is waiting to be installed on the table saw--to which another router table will be added. 

Side note--the guy i bought the Incra Pro from threw in a few other items which included an Incra Gauge. It would be much improved if the scale had some kind of contrast so i could read it, but it's a great little tool that i find myself reaching for all the time. 

earl


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## Gimmo (Mar 10, 2013)

Earl,
thanks for your opinion that was just what I was hoping to hear. I got the 32 TS LS table saw combo 3. It was an investment but when you think of all the things it will replace it is much cheaper than buying all the others and it has to be so much more precise, faster and easier than anything else. Really looking forward to getting it set up and working with it. I also got the set of Incra rules. VERY pricey but wow I have already realized that they are really the way to go for exact measurements. I am just now turning my garage into a shop so I've been spending all my time building a hang on rail storage system on the walls, running new electric and putting up piping for the dust collector. I have a new DC on order which should be arriving in about another week. I also ordered the MLCS motorized power lift which is on back order till March 31 and my son has the table saw at his house. So it will be sometime during the first part of April before I can get it all together. Once I get these all in I will be ready to roll.


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

*Akeda dovetail jig*

Regarding higher priced jigs, I've been looking into the Akeda version. I hope this one makes the test list. Elsewhere, it got good reviews and was indicated to require less of a "re-learning" curve for the owner than, for example, the Leigh. 

It'd be nice to add to the article information supporting the fact better tools (e.g., more user friendly and versatile) tend to get used more than their cheaper counterparts, so are less inclined to remain "used-once-in-a-while tools. A good comparison might be when one jumps from an old Craftsman band saw to a Powermatic, Grizzly or other vastly improved upon


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Were waiting for some results please.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Gary, the weather is finally warm enough for us to make sawdust again. Having my internet down for a couple weeks sure didn't help any. Things are in motion again so be patient.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Hey Mike--it's good to see you back among the "connected" people!!
earl


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## Ronschaller (Apr 16, 2013)

*Not all router bits are made the same*

I have three different types of dove tail jigs. the Keller, the Rockler and the Jointech. I actually haven't tried the Jointech yet; but I have made a lot of joints on the Rockler and the Keller. I've had a lot of trouble with joints that are too tight. I tried all kinds of adjustments and finally resorted to a light sanding before assembly to loosen the joints. It wasn't until I read the Jointech literature that I found the answer. Most router bits are made just a few thousands of an inch under sized. I don't know why. Jointech recommended re-cutting the joints one or two thousands of an inch off to solve the too tight issue. I haven't tried it yet, but it makes sense. The next time I use one of these jigs, I plan to cut the joint once; if it's too tight, Ill re-jig it and make a second pass just a hair off. :jester:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ron

Here's a little trick that works, shim the backer board out by a little bit,on the dovetail bit side..The keller and the katie jig are almost the same but the katie can be adjusted for dif.pattens.. use some counter top stock for your shim stock..

==



Ronschaller said:


> I have three different types of dove tail jigs. the Keller, the Rockler and the Jointech. I actually haven't tried the Jointech yet; but I have made a lot of joints on the Rockler and the Keller. I've had a lot of trouble with joints that are too tight. I tried all kinds of adjustments and finally resorted to a light sanding before assembly to loosen the joints. It wasn't until I read the Jointech literature that I found the answer. Most router bits are made just a few thousands of an inch under sized. I don't know why. Jointech recommended re-cutting the joints one or two thousands of an inch off to solve the too tight issue. I haven't tried it yet, but it makes sense. The next time I use one of these jigs, I plan to cut the joint once; if it's too tight, Ill re-jig it and make a second pass just a hair off. :jester:


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

I have the incra ls 25.With this system you simply raise or lower the bit th change the fit. "heighten to tighten, lower to loosen".Could not be simpler, especially when coupled with the accuracy and simplicity of height adjustments with a incra lift


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## kennyz (Apr 9, 2011)

Al...what brand dovetail bits are you using with the incra? It's good to know it's that easy to adjust the fit of the joints. I've heard some folks complain about that (too tight or too loose) in the past, I just thought you would have to try a different brand of bit. Also what about box joints, how's your luck with those? I've had my eye on an incra set-up for a long long time, I'm going to try to make it happen this summer.


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

Ken
I have used cheap craftsmans bits,mastercraft(a store brand only in Canada) and lee valley bits.Good results with all of them.Have not tried box joints.


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## Avery (May 13, 2010)

I'm looking forward to this comparison. I've had the Incra for several years. It works, but is very technique sensitive. For me, a router lift would make it more successful.


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## matermark (Nov 28, 2011)

I have the Harbor Freight $33 (when I bought it) version similar to the Rockler and looking forward to this comparison. Will this be a "differences" comparison or hands-on unbiased performance review of the jigs, and about when will it start? Will it cover setting up differences/time required, learning curve, etc? I also have an old Craftsman but it's missing parts (standoff bolts.) I mounted the HF to the workbench and played with 3/4 poplar but will be using 17/32 birch for the kitchen cabinet drawers. Just bought the Rockler jig dust collection duct, hope it works with the HF.

I can't wait!


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## dppatt (May 23, 2013)

I am not in the Detroit area but I would like to point out a problem with the Porter Cable 4212 jig. I am now using my third template for the jig ( bought one and exchanged one ).

Prob is with through dovetails - the tails cut perfectly but after flipping the template around to cut the pins it is obvious that the workpiece is not aligned correctly. In other words the pins board is about 1/32 (or a little more) farther to the left than it should be. So when the pins are cut the joint fits nicely but the board edges are not quite in line.

Of course I followed all the directions and triple checked everything - I do not want to waste anyone's time with this. I have spoken at length to PC tech support and others about this problem but no real solution. Here is a quick checklist ( to save time ): 
1. the outside face of the board against jig for tails, away from it for pins, 2. left alignment bracket replaced with more recent version and checked for 90 deg and firmly against board, 3. all stock flat, straight and square.

Anyone can test the alignment by mounting and centering a board, say 2 1/4" wide and then setting the left bracket against it. Then flip the jig and mount your pins board against the left bracket. Now instead of routing, just mark the pins board end along the lines of the template fingers. Of course these line are not where the cut will be because of the guide bushing but the lines show the relative positioning of the pins. Now remove the pins board and with the outside of the board still facing you measure the width between the finger outlines on the far left. Then measure the ones on the far right, You will see the right one is slightly smaller. 

This difference causes the alignment problem at the edge of the boards. 

Sorry to be so long-winded and thanks for your attention,
David


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I have had nothing but problems trying to get the comparison testing going. The weather fought us, scheduling conflicts on getting the local forum members together and my internet service not working for a while followed by my PC power supply popping. We will post a review of each jig we can and I am looking for volunteers to post about the different jigs they own. Please PM me if you are willing to participate.


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## samurai (Aug 14, 2011)

here is my through dovetail joint video.i will again make a video with my new pantorouter
making through dovetail and finger joint from one template on hybrid pantorouter - YouTube


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

That's an interesting twist on the dovetail jig... I've never seen one like that. Very nice!! Did you make it yourself?


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## samurai (Aug 14, 2011)

BrianS said:


> That's an interesting twist on the dovetail jig... I've never seen one like that. Very nice!! Did you make it yourself?


yes i have made it out from metal but there is plans available to make out from wood Pantorouter


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## martin godfrey (Jan 23, 2013)

It's a pity Leigh never did like head to head comparison tests.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I haven't heard anymore about the testing of the various dovetail jigs any progress on the subject it is a topic of interest to me. Considering I haven't invested time and money waiting for these comparisons to aid my decision.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Gary, I have not been able to get people together for the testing. I am looking for a shop large enough to hold the group. Meanwhile if you have any questions please post them.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I am interested in learning how to make dove tails but not ready or the need to do so. I just wanted to weight the pro's and con's of the different methods and find a method that would be affordable to me. I was leaning towards the Incra jig. I had the Incra jig budget fence the fence was warped when my shop was flooded a couple years back .


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Gary, All the different jigs work and they all have a learning curve. I think the Incra jig is one of if not the favorite of the majority of forum members.


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## pgould66 (Nov 30, 2013)

Mike - haven't bought one for myself yet, but spent 3 years with an old master cabinetmaker and we cut DTs by hand, with the band saw, table saw, router, and with both PC and Leigh jigs. His go to when we had an entire kitchen of drawers to make was always the Leigh D3.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Everybody has their favorite method. Leigh thumbed their noses at the forums when asked to participate. In a production situation I think it would be very difficult to beat the Woodrat. Katyjig's are easy to learn.


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## OldEd (Feb 4, 2014)

For my money the very best dovetail jig is the Keller jig. I've had the Model 1500 for a dozen years now and made hundreds if not thousands of dt joints with it, and nary a glitch. I bought it at a show after seeing Dave sitting there with two routers making joint after joint after joint, while the Leigh guy was fussing with his machine and making lots of test cuts to get it "just right". (My (non-wood-working) wife saw Dave separately and tracked me down to tell me about it while she was dragging me back to his booth.) 

I got it home, fussed with it a bit to get the ONE adjustment correct - you have to set the tail side to get the tightness you want - and haven't NEEDED to make an adjustment since. (I've made two new mounting boards to include built-in clamping: the second is better than the first. I had to go through the adjustment process each time, but it took about 15 minutes, and three test cuts, each time.)

I not only make dovetails, but box joints/finger joints with it also.

I made a cabinet for antique firearms - muzzle loaders - real originals, not modern replicas - that is 6'-8" tall: all the joints are dovetailed: try THAT with any other jig.


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## wbrisett (Feb 12, 2011)

Did this comparison test ever come to be? Looks like there has been some delays, yet it still might happen???

I bought the wonderfence and installed the router table wing on my TS (since I already had the Incra positioner on my TS). My only issue with the incra is the learning curve and how wood really needs to be dimensioned/thickness planed to certain preset amounts (I haven't had good luck with much else at least). 

I have a lead on a Leigh Jig still new in box for less than ½ retail, so I was hoping to see them in this test, but that doesn't seem to be either. 

Q: Is the Katie jig still being made? Their website seems quite dated. I know Sommerfeld has a "katie" jig and watching his video it seems like they've taken quite a bit of the learning curve out of things with it (but it can be pricey if you want to add the additional fingers for box joints and half-blind dovetails).


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

*gifkin's jig*

this is the jig i use sence it came out yrs ago, i bought it from Roger when he own the company , right out of the box with 2 set up's and both tales and pins are set and it will work ever time , with out all the test's with other, but this jig cost more than most but it is worth it to me, i have made 100's of box and all with dovetales so the cost didn't worry me, i wanted something that work with out all the messing around , now i have 2 tables and 2 router's set up all the time for this, work very well, now if you are only going to make a couple than go with the testing ect. but that is not for me i want or got to get the job done, mine is the A10 model , the link Gifkins Dovetail


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## 4aggies (Sep 11, 2010)

Great info.


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## OldEd (Feb 4, 2014)

Hate to tell you guys, but the G i f k i n s (can't have a URL yet...) jig looks awfully like a copy (rip-off) of the Keller jig...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I think you will find that you have that backwards Edward.


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## samurai (Aug 14, 2011)

one setting and ready for through dovetail joint
Making through Dovetail joint on hybrid pantorouter - YouTube


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

So, by now, you must have about a hundred forty dovetail jigs and be the worlds expert on them, or ready for the funny farm trying to remember the incidentals of each.

You are, of course, buying one of each of these for our benefit, aren't you?


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## OldEd (Feb 4, 2014)

*Katie jig NOT new*



Mike said:


> James, I will try to get a Gifkins jig.
> 
> Mark, the HF jig is identical to the first Rockler jig and we have one of those available for the test.
> 
> ...


I would like to point out that the Katie Jig, or the "junior" version of it, is nothing more than a rip-off of the Keller Jig, which has been on the market for many, many years. I've had - and used - one for the past 15 years and am quite happy with it. All that the maker of the "Katie Jig" has done it to PHOTOGRAPH it, and demonstrate it, upside down. This was always possible with the Keller jig - I've done it myself about half the time.

I guess Dave's patent has run out, which accounts for the flood of rip-offs.

Having had a patent ripped off myself, I fully sympathize with Dave Keller, and I wish that people would give him the credit that he's due.

One thing that the Leigh jig and a whole bunch of others CAN'T do is make DT's of UNLIMITED length. Another is make DT's on curved edges. A third is make CANTED DT's: i.e. make a join between two boards at other than 90 degrees, as in a box with slanted sides.

AND it definitely isn't Sommerfeld's.


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