# Router guides runout (wobble) problem



## smilem (Aug 9, 2013)

Hello, I noticed that festool doesn't seem to have this problem the router guides do not have any noticeable runout.

As festool is too expensive for me (for what you get),
What about brands sutch as bosch ? GMF1600 ?

I had to return my Metabo 1229 signal because the wobble was 0.3-0.5mm.  (And they supposedly made in Germany)


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum.

Is the indicated run out on the router shaft?


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I hope I've understood your question as the term "wobble" usually refers to a rotating shaft that is not remaining centered. I'm assuming that centering your router bushing is your problem and the router collet is running true. If I didn't get it right, please try to describe your problem a little better.

There are alignment tools available for getting the router guide centered with respect to the router collet. These tools are nothing more than a shaft of the collet diameter with a plastic cone that slides onto it. You lock the shaft into your router and then slide the cone down onto it until it hits the guide bushing. Then loosen the guide bushing nut and press the cone down to force the guide bushing to center, and tighten the guide bushing nut. Your guide bushing should now be centered with respect to the collet. Be careful, because if you unlock and change the router depth of cut this bushing centering step may need to be repeated.

In many cases you can work with a guide bushing that isn't centered if you always keep the orientation of the router the same with respect to your template. I put a directional arrow on the top of my router base to help me do this. If the same position of the bushing is always touching the guide or template, the offset between the bit and the bushing will always be the same and you can allow for it in your setup. I do this for routing dovetails and keep the router arrow always pointing in the same direction while I follow the dovetail guides. This forces any error to always be in the same direction, so the pins and tails will fit perfectly. Even though they are all offset slightly, there will be no error between them.


Charley


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I couldn't have said it better than Charley, he's spot on.


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## smilem (Aug 9, 2013)

I do not mean the router spindle, I mean the metal shafts on the base plate that the router uses for plunging.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I have had no problems with my Tritons or Makitas...


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

smilem said:


> I do not mean the router spindle, I mean the metal shafts on the base plate that the router uses for plunging.


You need a better quality plunge router if you are having trouble here.

Charley


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## smilem (Aug 9, 2013)

CharleyL said:


> You need a better quality plunge router if you are having trouble here.
> 
> Charley


I agree. But I have other tools from metabo like compact Metabo PowerMaxx 12 Basic cordless drill / driver, and big brother the 
Metabo BS 18 LTX QUICK with 18V 80Nm drill/driver those are superb tools.

I speak from experience, I have taken apart both and they are made to last, with patented all metal gearbox on LTX, and with real front deep groove ball bearing + sleeve baring on Basic model.

You can find videos about them on youtube. The Metabo 18V Reciprocating Saw ASE 18 LTX is another tool that is awesome.


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## smilem (Aug 9, 2013)

So what about bosch gmf 1600 plunge base is it stable and no wobble there?


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## smilem (Aug 9, 2013)

Hello again  I needed a router for my wood project so I gave BOSCH GMF1600CE a try. I ordered from Germany web store that is official distributor for BOSCH.

The GMF1600 CE came in Nice L-BOXX palstic container sealed with sticker so it's brand new assurance 

However the plunge base has the same problem like my previous router due to very bizzare design flaw? There is a brass bushing on left side plunge rail, but is no bushing on right side. I took the cover off and there seems to be some sort of plastic but no brass bushing.

The measured wobble is ~0.1mm measured with mitutoyo DTI. So that is allot if you ask me. You can feel and see this without any measurement tools. Try putting 7cm bit and see how much angle changes from true 90deg.

As there is second non plunge base that can adjust depth on full depth I will not be returning this Router, but the question remains the same why BOSCH can't make a router this expensive with 2 bushings??? Why can't it be zero wobble?

The linear ball bearing like LM8UU from china cost 7$ the LM10UU maybe 12$, brass is way cheaper. The only option is to make the bushing on a lathe I think, screw you BOSCH.

Your thoughts?


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