# routing on uneven surface



## katzman (Nov 9, 2010)

I'd like to use my plunge router to route a mortise-like cut into uneven surfaces like drift wood. As the router can obviously not be placed directly on the wood, I'll need to a jig. There are a number of possible ways to do this, but it would be great to hear back from anyone who has routed on uneven surfaces.


----------



## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

ok, first off, I haven't. BUT...post a photo and we can all have a gander at what your up against, and for sure someone will come up with some hair brained scheme that will solve your problem!:thank_you2:


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

katzman said:


> I'd like to use my plunge router to route a mortise-like cut into uneven surfaces like drift wood. As the router can obviously not be placed directly on the wood, I'll need to a jig. There are a number of possible ways to do this, but it would be great to hear back from anyone who has routed on uneven surfaces.


Ok, so the question to start with is how much control do you have over your "driftwood." Screwed to a base to allow you to work on it? etc...

Obviously, you'll need to use skis. They'll have to be large enough to allow the router to be positioned over the workpiece. However, your next problem is how far from the router bit will your cut need to be? You may end up investing in some major length bits or extensions You may need to handle this on a project by project basis. Be prepared to post lots of pictures.


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

As Ron said, skis would be one method. Depending on just how irregular the driftwood is, a jig could also be as simple as a board with a slot for the guide bushing. 

With either approach, there's a need for holding everything steady during the process. So, you may need other holding/clamping jigs for that purpose.


----------



## katzman (Nov 9, 2010)

Thanks for the replies. I'll take some photos tomorrow of the kind of wood I'd like to work with. The wood pieces will be around the same size, but the jig will need to be able to handle the slightly different measurements. The wood will not be attached to anything, so holding it secure is one of the issues. I will use wood that will allow me to get the router close enough to not need special bits. It is a personal project, so I don't want to go too mad wit the jig. The simpler the better.


----------



## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Hey Katz, (and everyone else), I in no way meant to dis any members of this forum. I am the real guy with the hair brain:thank_you2:, note smilie @ left, 

Anyway, I slept on this last night and figured if you wanna put a tenon on it it must be big enough to be what, the base of a coffee table @ least, right?

Can you make a plywood/OSB jig that can nest the limb(s) you wish to route? Start there and then incorporate into this fixture the components you'll need. Your router could be mounted to an over size base of lexan or plywood, with stop blocks mounted to the base. Then set your bit depth to absolute minimum and try your tenon, shaving off just enough to leave a mark verifying where the tenon will actually be. Once you are satisfied, set the appropriate depth and route for effect.

In fact you could use this set up to flush cut any limbs so that all are in the same plane before you start! Use the router for this as well.


----------



## katzman (Nov 9, 2010)

Thanks Jack. It's not actually furniture I want to make, something much simpler. The cuts are not actually mortises, but very similar in size. Before taking photos of the wood I have, I quickly did a Google search for driftwood. The picture I have attached is a tea light holder someone has made. The wood I want to use is of a similar size, though slightly shorter. OK, so I want to make a stand into driftwood, and the cut is similar to a mortise. What am I trying to make? hint...music.

As Ralph mentioned, the simplest way is just a board with a slot for the guide bushing. As you mentioned, I could make this jig nest the wood. I was thinking of puting this jig on long bolts to adjust the height. I could vary the height on each of the four bolts so the jig would follow the shape of the wood slightly better to get the bit as close to the wood as possible. I would then need to clamp the wood my workbench and mount this jig over it. Skis may be sightly overkill, and not be flexible enough for height. Before, making anything though, I wanted to see if anyone had a better way to do it, or even a link to a similar kind of jig. My searches haven't turned up anything quite right, or simple enough.

This is a essentially a one of project, but when I told my friends what I want to do, they all said they want one! I may need to make half a dozen or so.


----------



## katzman (Nov 9, 2010)

Sorry, ignore the comment about changing the height of the corners of the jig independently. Obviously not work, as the cut wouldn't be flat. Brain fart.


----------



## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Using Jack's method, you could rout the bottom flat or shave off enough of the high spots for the piece to set evenly. Doing that first would make the piece more stable in the jig and, when completed.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

The key is the "nest" ,,,bond-do works very well for holding stock in place plus you can sand it off if needed..or just make a small mold base frame, a little bit of clear plastic rap will let the bond-do come free from of the mold..no need for any screws or bolts  you can also use Durham Donald Co 4Lb Wtr Putty Wood Putty
it's a water base item and setup in mins.and is hard as a rock.. if you don't like bond-do stuff that's not to cheap..and a bit of a mess to use..


Durham Donald Co 4Lb Wtr Putty Wood Putty
Amazon.com: Durham Donald Co 4Lb Wtr Putty Wood Putty: Home Improvement


=========
==========



katzman said:


> Thanks Jack. It's not actually furniture I want to make, something much simpler. The cuts are not actually mortises, but very similar in size. Before taking photos of the wood I have, I quickly did a Google search for driftwood. The picture I have attached is a tea light holder someone has made. The wood I want to use is of a similar size, though slightly shorter. OK, so I want to make a stand into driftwood, and the cut is similar to a mortise. What am I trying to make? hint...music.
> 
> As Ralph mentioned, the simplest way is just a board with a slot for the guide bushing. As you mentioned, I could make this jig nest the wood. I was thinking of puting this jig on long bolts to adjust the height. I could vary the height on each of the four bolts so the jig would follow the shape of the wood slightly better to get the bit as close to the wood as possible. I would then need to clamp the wood my workbench and mount this jig over it. Skis may be sightly overkill, and not be flexible enough for height. Before, making anything though, I wanted to see if anyone had a better way to do it, or even a link to a similar kind of jig. My searches haven't turned up anything quite right, or simple enough.
> 
> ...


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Jack Wilson said:


> Hey Katz, (and everyone else), I in no way meant to dis any members of this forum. I am the real guy with the hair brain:thank_you2:, note smilie @ left,


Hey Jack: No offence taken. I have to admit some of the best suggestions are sometimes the strangest. Who'd a thunk that you could put two metal rods through the base of a router, jack it up in the air with two thin boards and crank up the speed to >30,000 rpm. Now if that ain't hairbrained, nothin' is. But, look what it can do ;-) We're not usually a thin skinned bunch. We just haven't figured out what is politically correct yet.


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Jack Wilson said:


> Hey Katz, (and everyone else), I in no way meant to dis any members of this forum. I am the real guy with the hair brain:thank_you2:, note smilie @ left,
> 
> . . .


I tried taking afence once, but the farmer chased me down with his shotgun.


----------



## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Ralph Barker said:


> I tried taking afence once, but the farmer chased me down with his shotgun.


Nice one Ralph!:laugh:


----------



## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Depending on the size of your wood, you could screw one of theses vices to your bench to hold it, then use a ski set up to rout.


----------



## katzman (Nov 9, 2010)

Thanks Gav. I'm actually leaning towards making a ski jig now, and attaching it to a an old workbench to hold the wood (the type with the vice in the center).

On a slightly different note...
Has anyone used a ski jig with a fixed router, and then moved the wood by hand under the jig like an upside router table? The jig would be fixed down to the workbench and the router with stoppers on the skis to stop in moving. This would give me a lot more flexibility with how I used the jig.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Moving the stock under the router can be a bit hairy, it will want to pull it out of your hands or off the vise..a fix base router will work in the ski jig.
If the project comes up a lit bit it will jam and take off like a rocket..

Think of the ski jig like a lawn mower, the blade over the top but not the other way around. 

It makes recall, two guys came in to the shop and ask if I would take the wheels off the lawn mower they had and put some pipes in for handles, and I said WHAT. we now lift the lawn mower up by the wheel and use it to trim the hedges and I said you guys are nuts, I said, I can't do that, I don't have that type of insurance to cover crazy people..  


===============



katzman said:


> Thanks Gav. I'm actually leaning towards making a ski jig now, and attaching it to a an old workbench to hold the wood (the type with the vice in the center).
> 
> On a slightly different note...
> Has anyone used a ski jig with a fixed router, and then moved the wood by hand under the jig like an upside router table? The jig would be fixed down to the workbench and the router with stoppers on the skis to stop in moving. This would give me a lot more flexibility with how I used the jig.


----------



## katzman (Nov 9, 2010)

Thanks Bob. I've got the Bosch router kit, so was thinking I could switch the router motor out for different uses on the ski. Was wondering if moving the wood under the jig would be a bit dicey. Thanks for confirming. I'll make the jig just for the plunge application.


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

katzman said:


> Thanks Gav. I'm actually leaning towards making a ski jig now, and attaching it to a an old workbench to hold the wood (the type with the vice in the center).
> 
> On a slightly different note...
> Has anyone used a ski jig with a fixed router, and then moved the wood by hand under the jig like an upside router table? The jig would be fixed down to the workbench and the router with stoppers on the skis to stop in moving. This would give me a lot more flexibility with how I used the jig.


Hi:

Ok, that is called an overhead router. It is method #14. There is another version where the router travels on overhead rails that can be locked in place and it is called a gantry router.

The overhead router has an arm that suspends the router over the workpiece. You control the depth of cut by a foot pedal that is activated by compressed air. Optionally you can locate a pin in the table directly below the bit and do template work like that. Personally, I prefer a bearinged bit with a safety pin for my male template work. 

I think "Legacy" used to make one. The last time I looked General and Woodstock continued to sell them. You can spend some time with google. They're not that difficult to find.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Take a look at the setup below ( see link below) it may do it for you I'm making one now but at about 40.oo total cost..with the help from HF plate and the rails from ,see below, no sag no dips with this one..

items - Get great deals on items on eBay Stores!

Planing Sled
Woodhaven - Woodworking Tools, Supply & Equipment

http://woodhaven.com/content/Video.htm

http://woodhaven.com/Woodhaven-4048-Double-Track/M/B002LTY3PG.htm

========


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hmm, now I've got two lengths of that extrusion. All I need is the plate !

Cheers

Peter


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Sounds good 
You will also need some plastic to tie the rails up as one unit so they can slide as one pair but that's no big deal...they used rollers but I think the plate should do the job as well, it looks like the rollers will need to roll over the chips and change the cut just that little bit. and that's no no for me, I did play with a little bit and put some chips and saw dust in the slots and the plate just push them out the ends ,you could say it will clean it out by default ,the HF plate is just the right size to fit in the slots..and with a little rabbet edge to keep it running true..

Plus the HF plate can be flip around to take on the tank routers with no drop.

=========





istracpsboss said:


> Hmm, now I've got two lengths of that extrusion. All I need is the plate !
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


----------

