# Using a router table to make two flat edges parallel: bad idea?



## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

Hi there,

So, I've just built my first router table (haven't taken any photos of it yet, but I'll post some here once I do, it's a simple pine and mdf affair), and I was wondering if this was possible, or a pretty bad idea. Assuming you have a piece that has been planed flat on one side, can you use a straight cut bit to route the other side flat, by running the piece between the fence and the bit? (Taking off a very small amount every time, obviously.) Is this kind of set up prone to binding, followed by the wood/fence doing something nasty?

I'm also keen to use my router to cut a 1/4" wide, 1/4" deep slot down a 1" piece of maple for a small stained glass project I'm working on - is it better to use a slotted cutter, or could one use a straight cut bit for this, and just feed the thing down the router fence, (probably in three or 4 passes)?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobbotron said:


> Hi there,
> 
> So, I've just built my first router table (haven't taken any photos of it yet, but I'll post some here once I do, it's a simple pine and mdf affair), and I was wondering if this was possible, or a pretty bad idea. Assuming you have a piece that has been planed flat on one side, can you use a straight cut bit to route the other side flat, by running the piece between the fence and the bit? (Taking off a very small amount every time, obviously.) Is this kind of set up prone to binding, followed by the wood/fence doing something nasty?
> 
> I'm also keen to use my router to cut a 1/4" wide, 1/4" deep slot down a 1" piece of maple for a small stained glass project I'm working on - is it better to use a slotted cutter, or could one use a straight cut bit for this, and just feed the thing down the router fence, (probably in three or 4 passes)?


Trapping stock between the bit and fence is one of the things to avoid under almost all circumstances. I know some have done it, but some have gone over Niagra Falls in a barrel also. To me, neither is a particularly good idea. If you have one side planed, just plane both. If no jointer, set up your outfeed fence as a planer. If your not sure how to do that, come on back and ask, there are also several threads that do that in detail.

For your slotting project, either bit will work fine. Personally, I would prefer the slot cutter for that job. *Use featherboards*:big_boss:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rob

" bad idea " it's called trapping the stock, it's true you can use the table saw that way but not the router table the norm 

" slotted cutters " are the best way,you can make it in one pass the norm, think of like a small saw blade..

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bobbotron said:


> Hi there,
> 
> So, I've just built my first router table (haven't taken any photos of it yet, but I'll post some here once I do, it's a simple pine and mdf affair), and I was wondering if this was possible, or a pretty bad idea. Assuming you have a piece that has been planed flat on one side, can you use a straight cut bit to route the other side flat, by running the piece between the fence and the bit? (Taking off a very small amount every time, obviously.) Is this kind of set up prone to binding, followed by the wood/fence doing something nasty?
> 
> I'm also keen to use my router to cut a 1/4" wide, 1/4" deep slot down a 1" piece of maple for a small stained glass project I'm working on - is it better to use a slotted cutter, or could one use a straight cut bit for this, and just feed the thing down the router fence, (probably in three or 4 passes)?


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

Thanks guys! I thought it probably wasn't a good idea, glad to know for sure.

Good call, I have a unused t track slotted cutter I think I'll use, thanks BobJ!


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