# Table top material questions



## majn555 (Oct 31, 2008)

Hi everyone, I'm absolutely a novice and just enter the woodworking world. this is even my 1st post in the Router Forum.

I'm trying to build my first router table but with no clue about what's kind of material I should use for the worktop. Can anyone give me any suggestions on that. Price is a major concern for me indeed. and I also noticed the truth that most of the router-table plans employ the base plate, can I simply bypass it and directly attach my router to the worktop? or if I DO need one, what could be the best material for the base plates? I can only get them from either HD or Lowes.

Thanks,
-Johnny


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## ajh359 (Jul 17, 2008)

I use 2 sheets of 3/4 MDF. 2 sheets of 1/4 hardboard. Glue 2 sheets of 3/4 MDF together and glue the 1/4 hardboard on top and bottom. Then laniment top and bottom also.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI majn555

It can be PLywood or just about anything you want to use 
But MDF works best because it's flat the norm..it can be just one piece thick (3/4" ) it comes down to how big the top is going to be.. 

The bigger the top the more you will need to keep it flat, like most things the 4 supports on each side on the board will support the weight..
You can add to the thickest to the cabinet sides to help support the top.
Just by building a small frame inside the cabinet to help .

You don't need a drop in plate BUT it makes it easy to mount your router, you can mount the router to the board But it will limited the height of your router bit by 3/4" the norm...and that can be a big deal  you don't want to rout out a pocket to put the router in , it takes a lot away from the top support wise..

So the bottom line is pickup a base plate they are cheap  only 20 bucks.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94331









majn555 said:


> Hi everyone, I'm absolutely a novice and just enter the woodworking world. this is even my 1st post in the Router Forum.
> 
> I'm trying to build my first router table but with no clue about what's kind of material I should use for the worktop. Can anyone give me any suggestions on that. Price is a major concern for me indeed. and I also noticed the truth that most of the router-table plans employ the base plate, can I simply bypass it and directly attach my router to the worktop? or if I DO need one, what could be the best material for the base plates? I can only get them from either HD or Lowes.
> 
> ...


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Johnny,
Once you get your base plate... here's just one way to install it:

http://www.binkyswoodworking.com/InstalRoutBase.html

You might want to do some browsing here before you get too involved with your table. There is a ton of information available and you may find some things you want to use on your new table. Just use the Router Forums search function at the top of this page and you will find more info than you will ever need.
Good luck with your project.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I set 1X5 around the base with the 2 long sides equal to the length of the table, (for clampage) and glued the corners, leave the base plate in the jig while it cooks over night.
Place and center the jig where you want it on the table and clamp it. Stick a straight template bit with top bearing into the router bit diameter must equal the radius of the base plate corner. Bit needs to be long enough to cut through table top and bore a hole somewhere close to the edge of the template to drop the bit through. Route in 1/4" deep passes till fall through.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The best material for a router table top is 3/4" baltic birch plywood. This should be covered both sides with a high pressure laminate like Formica or Laminex. This top will be very strong, light weight, and easy to work with. The router workshop table top is made this way, and you can purchse just the table top and mount it to your own base. This gives you the advantage of a high quality phenolic plastic plate which will fit your router.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi majn555

So many make a easy job so hard 

Bob R. & Rick R. of the RWS did show every one how to do this type of job and do it easy and quick.. 
Bob R. calls this the stick way, and it is the easy way to get the job done,he will use the brass guides the norm but the pattern bit will do it just a bit essayer on the 1st. pass ..

*Pattern/Flush Trim Bits*

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...html/pages/bt_flush.html#pattern_flush_anchor
or
http://cgi.ebay.com/3-pc-1-4-SH-Top...50386QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

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majn555 said:


> Hi everyone, I'm absolutely a novice and just enter the woodworking world. this is even my 1st post in the Router Forum.
> 
> I'm trying to build my first router table but with no clue about what's kind of material I should use for the worktop. Can anyone give me any suggestions on that. Price is a major concern for me indeed. and I also noticed the truth that most of the router-table plans employ the base plate, can I simply bypass it and directly attach my router to the worktop? or if I DO need one, what could be the best material for the base plates? I can only get them from either HD or Lowes.
> 
> ...


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

> This should be covered both sides with a high pressure laminate like Formica or Laminex.


I have heard this said often. But why *both*sides? What is the purpose of the laminate on the underside of the table top?


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

crquack said:


> I have heard this said often. But why *both*sides? What is the purpose of the laminate on the underside of the table top?


It is to control moisture. If the table absorbs or dissipates moisture faster on one side than the other it will warp, twist, bow or all three. It is also recommended to put edging on the table for the same reason.


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## majn555 (Oct 31, 2008)

thank you all for replying so fast, this is such a great place to learn and practice. For now I may just go for the MDF, while keeping an eye on the professional table top. as I gain more experience, then I will finally invest my money.


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## tryingtokeepmyfingers (Jun 3, 2008)

ajh359 said:


> I use 2 sheets of 3/4 MDF. 2 sheets of 1/4 hardboard. Glue 2 sheets of 3/4 MDF together and glue the 1/4 hardboard on top and bottom. Then laniment top and bottom also.


do you really still need the laminate on the top and botton if you have glued the hardboard on top and bottom over the mdf and sealed the sides of both

thanks for any more in depth knowledge


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI tryingtokeepmyfingers

This just my 2 cents 

I can't see a reason for it, some mfg. do it to the stock they make and sale  
It hides the junk wood they use I think  and they don't need to sand it to get it to look nice and clean on both sides,and I'm sure it's cheaper to cover than sand down ,big belts/drums are not cheap and don't last that long, you will see a lot of it used in cabinet work, the norm is the white stuff. pre-finished cabinet grade...
Some will say moisture, take a look under your kitchen sink....it can't keep the moisture out and you can't keep it out ,water is water and will run in and wood will soak it up..and in time the wood and glue will fail..but if it can dry out it will last longer..
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tryingtokeepmyfingers said:


> do you really still need the laminate on the top and botton if you have glued the hardboard on top and bottom over the mdf and sealed the sides of both
> 
> thanks for any more in depth knowledge


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## tryingtokeepmyfingers (Jun 3, 2008)

Thanks bobj3. for your opinion. glad that I can get by with just that hard board on top of the mdf.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Here's my 2 cents, the matter isn't so much to do with moisture considering the base sheet is covered with laminate and some kind of banding, the bottom could be sealed and that would solve the problem. Most shops big and small have some form of moisture removal, (dehumidifiers). The cost of rusted and or pitted table surfaces is too expensive to ignore.

The issue has more to do with materials having different thermal expansion coefficients. For example thermostats and pressure gauges use bi-metal strips that expand and contract. If you apply like plys to both sides of the base you end up with -0- and or restricted movement. This produces a product that also is less moisture sensitive.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Moisture control is a big reason for laminating both sides of your table top, but it is only one. Another is having the same surface tension, so as to create even pressure to control movement. Laminate is far superior to hardboard for a couple of reasons: It is easy to mark and clean, your router will easily glide on the surface, and it is very durable. This is not the only method for building a table top but the question was which method works best?


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## daleh (Oct 18, 2008)

For my first one I took an office tabletop from a modular (dilbert cube) system and cut out a spot for the baseplate. It was laminated and had molding in all the edges. I checked it with a straight edge and it was flat. I passed it on to a friend just last year who is still using it. The cost was $00.00 as it was being thrown away. It was a great beginners top and got me routing right away. I built many things with it including two raised panel cabinet boxes.


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## Mahogany Man (Oct 25, 2008)

My first table was 2 pieces of 1" MDF I screwed together.
Actually worked real well!!
HTH
John


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Personally I think its simply so you don't mar/scratch the wood, or acrylic when you sliding them across the table, and it slides nice and slick for a better smoother cut.
BUT you can get those same results with wax on fine sanded wood.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Truth, but if you use the tool often you have to do it on a regular basis. Outside of resin build up around the fence and throat the formica stays slick unless you nick it.

I've been using Nu-Finish for a couple years 4 or 5 times a year on all my metal tabletops. The dehumidifier and Nu-finish have kept moisture and my sweat from etching my babies.


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