# Cone shaped hole?



## dan_house (Feb 18, 2009)

Searched the forum, and the web... but nothin'....

Ideas on how to route a cone shaped hole? Wider at the top and then narrows to the bottom.

Would like to be able to do it with a jig/fixture, so I can do it over and over again..... but I'm stumped.....

thanx

dan


----------



## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Set the plunge on the stock you want to cut and block it off to confine any side movement of the router. 

Install a straight bit the size of the bearing on a chamfer bit in the router. Plunge the bit, remove and replace it with the chamfer bit and plunge it.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

What size ,, small end and big end ?
here's just one of many 

Architectural Case/Molding Router Bits
#7896
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...it_molding2.html#architectural_molding_anchor


========



dan_house said:


> Searched the forum, and the web... but nothin'....
> 
> Ideas on how to route a cone shaped hole? Wider at the top and then narrows to the bottom.
> 
> ...


----------



## dan_house (Feb 18, 2009)

that has promise.....


----------



## dan_house (Feb 18, 2009)

In an effort to better explain, I wnet back to the pics I had gotten the inspiration from for using a conical hole.

I was thinking that a conical hole could be cut/drilled into that portion of my gunstock blank that the thumbhole are would occupy, thus reducing the amount of sanding/grinding to shape it.

Now after checking not only my designs, and the designs Ive been influenced by, I think it might be better to use a (as yet undesigned or build) drilling jig and a forstner bit of the desired size. 

That would still remove a lot of material and create a rough start to the final shape. 

Wish I could draw it out a little better, as my description isnt all that great....

Thinking thru the conical hole idea... I also see a design change that would reduce the amount of material to be removed or could be cut off early in the shaping process. I'll try drawing it and posting the scan......


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

You may want to pickup a uni bit,,it's in a cone shape bit that can be used to make many holes sizes on one bit...2 sizes that I know about,, one that's 1/4" to 3/4" and one that's 1/2" to 1 1/2" it cuts very fast made for sheet metal the norm..or light steel...like a elec. panel box..


======




dan_house said:


> In an effort to better explain, I wnet back to the pics I had gotten the inpsiration from for using a conical hole.
> 
> I was thinking that a conical hole could be cut/drilled into that portion of my gunstock blank that the thumbhole are would occupy, thus reducing the amount of sanding/grinding to shape it.
> 
> ...


----------



## dan_house (Feb 18, 2009)

*Photoshop to the resecue (maybe)*

I found an Image Ive painted on in PS....

the red circle would be the frist drill cut. the green one is where it would eventually grind out to, and the yellow lines show how the cone would taper back down the the red "hole".

Other stock Ive build Ive drilled the red hole first, perpendicular to the stock blank. Then start grinding and sanding using the 3/4, 1, 1 1/2 and 2 inch sanding drums and the 1/2 belt sander.

Wondering if a conical hole would shorten that process. Now I'n not so sure, or maybe routing the "cone" away isnt the anwswer, but some otehr process/tool may help....

Or maybe this is the point I should build my copy-carver.....

Thanx guys!


----------



## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

So you're trying to copy your molded hand imprint in the butt stock, very convoluted and time consuming by hand maybe a dremel.

I might suggest a plaster mold of the butt stock from a plasticine block cut with with your hand imprint and send that to a CNC shop.

Or maybe a block of that carving/shaping foam. You need a model for future work, either of these option would solve that.


----------



## dan_house (Feb 18, 2009)

Ghidrah said:


> So you're trying to copy your molded hand imprint in the butt stock, very convoluted and time consuming by hand maybe a dremel.
> 
> I might suggest a plaster mold of the butt stock from a plasticine block cut with with your hand imprint and send that to a CNC shop.
> 
> Or maybe a block of that carving/shaping foam. You need a model for future work, either of these option would solve that.


Ive been thinking alng those lines, only not with CNC. Using the Copy carver to duplicate stuff. Hand carve the first one, and use the CC to replicate it.

Now just have figure a way to modularize the stocks......mix and match!:moil:


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

For your initial stock's thumb hole, Dan, I think I'd start with a forstner hole, slightly undersized, and then carve from there. Carving gouges could be used to rough out the area, and then refine it from there.


----------



## dan_house (Feb 18, 2009)

Ralph Barker said:


> Carving gouges could be used to rough out the area, and then refine it from there.


Gouges.... few strokes with the mallet. Faster maybe.... 
Also get around the limitation of tool size. One very frustrating thing is the drill/drums cant make some of the angles I'd like to cuz the tool is too big.

Gouges... yea. off the Hardware store...


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Angles - remember they are relative, so to speak. They're easy with a tilting-table drill press, or an appropriate jig to hold the work piece on a fixed-table drill press. Add a dozen or so clamps, and you're all set.


----------



## dan_house (Feb 18, 2009)

Ralph Barker said:


> Angles - remember they are relative, so to speak. They're easy with a tilting-table drill press, or an appropriate jig to hold the work piece on a fixed-table drill press. Add a dozen or so clamps, and you're all set.


Gonna have to get more clamps..... 

I have an angled drilling fixture, and have already seen a couple of places a big forstner bit will do what a sanding drum did. Less dust, faster.

ITs a process....


----------



## dan_house (Feb 18, 2009)

After surfing around to the stock building sites I hang at, and seeing photos documenting some other's builds, I dont think I'm all that off base the way I'm building now.

Dremels, sanding drums and forstner bits have all been mentioned.

And I dont think that I'd see much of time savings using a duplicator. Just a very repeatable design.


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Yes, there is a multiplicity of methodologies by which the divest the cat of its epidural enclosure (more than one way to skin a cat). 

Some methods lend themselves to greater repeatability, others may be easier to tailor to a particular shooter's specs. 

As to modularity, that strikes me as a Chinese Puzzle sort of thing. Dividing a stock into 3-D sections is one thing, but holding them together in a stable, rigid manner while allowing adjustments is the key, I'd think.


----------



## dan_house (Feb 18, 2009)

Ralph Barker said:


> Dividing a stock into 3-D sections is one thing, but holding them together in a stable, rigid manner while allowing adjustments is the key, I'd think.



One day I'll learn to stop making flippant comments... or not :happy:

Holding them to gether, even just long enough to dupe would be challenging. I think the next go round, I'm going to work towards a much simpler design. 

dont think the wife is gonna go for the CNC stuff.....


----------

