# My 1st Box w/inlayed joints (Build Along)?



## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

*My 1st Box w/inlayed joints (Build Along)…*

I’ve done build along threads for my RC airplanes before. I enjoy them. You guys can watch my progress, tell me how to do things better / easier, and I can ask questions. 

To tell you the truth it’s the 1st box I’m making with kind of joint (besides a but joint). It will be a simple 7x7x3.5 box with an open top and a cork lined bottom for tossing keys / change into. 

Now I’d love to tackle a nice inlayed fingered or dovetail joint. But since my router table set up is an “in progress” project I’m limited to my old table saw for making some joints. So I’m going to start with a simple dado joint (I think that’s what this joint is called, correct me if I’m wrong) cut a little larger to accept a 1/32 inlay. 

Like most of my projects this one starts out with a pad, pencil and lots of coffee. 










I racked my brain for a while figuring out how place the inlays and how it effects my dado measurements. I seriously need to learn how to use sketch up one of these days. 

Here’s the raw wood. A nice piece of poplar from Lowes and sheet of 1/32 walnut from my hobby store. 




























I’m liking the grain of the poplar. And the walnut should provide a nice contrast for the inlay. 

Off to the power tool I have to relay on for my cuts / dados. A table saw that is most likely twice as old as I am. To give you an idea of how old this “hand-me-down” from my father is… This saw was given to him 30 years ago from the printing company that we worked for. They used it years before that for cutting lead printing plates! I have to look at the labels closer one night and see if I can find a date of manufacture on it. 

The good news is that it’s solid and has a decent guild that “clicks” as you twist it. It actually makes decent dados. One day I need to adapt some kid of fence for ripping as now I use an angle iron and a few claps (gets the job done in a pinch).










But no ripping today. Since the wood from Lowes is 3.5” I’m going to make the box sides 7” to give a pleasant “half cube” appearance. 

As I cut I keep the wood in order and mark what will become the outsides and bottoms of the box. This should allow the grain to “flow” around the box.

As seen in the mock up:










Then it’s back to the saw to set the blade height per my drawings:










And then I start cutting my dados. Pass by pass on the blade. 










The results are pretty precise. And if I’m off by a few thousandths of an inch I figure I’ll have some wiggle room with the inlays. And when all else fails there is always sandpaper! 

Another mock up after cutting 2 pieces shows my design looks about right. With the inlays in the joint I should have a 90 deg angle. 










Next I cut some inlays. I mark the “clean” edge with an arrow. This will be used to glue them in the proper orientation. 










After doing some head scratching I figure out the best way to start gluing the inlays. The game plan is to use the clean edge against the inside of my cuts. Then cut / sand the inlay’s overhang flush with the wood after gluing. This way I don’t have to go crazy cutting precise inlays. Will it work? Stay tuned…

Here’s my magnetic building board in action. My 90 deg jigs hold everything tight while the glue sets. I’m using Titebond II because it’s what I had around. It was either that or epoxy. Figured wood glue for wood. But if there’s something better I could use for the rest of this project let me know. 










Here’s a close up of the overhang:










This will sit for a nice 24 hour cure. I’ll report more as I make progress. But I’m not sure how much I’ll get done this week since I also have a project I need to finish varnishing. I can’t make dust while that’s going on.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Nick,

Being a box nut, I look forward to following your work-a-long.

Thanks for sharing with us.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

No problem Bob. Since you're a box nut can you recommend a finish? I want something satin (natural, no stain) that brings out the grain. I'm familiar with brush-on poly but would like to start exploring other finishing techniques... 

Thanks!


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I've just started using Tung Oil. Brings the grain out beautifully.
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/axlmyks-stuff/8906-clock-100_2464s.jpg


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Nickbee said:


> No problem Bob. Since you're a box nut can you recommend a finish? I want something satin (natural, no stain) that brings out the grain. I'm familiar with brush-on poly but would like to start exploring other finishing techniques...
> 
> Thanks!


I like to build up a gloss poly finish or a tung oil poly mixture and let it cure for several days and then rub it out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax. Leaves a beautiful satin finish that is great to the touch. 

Corey


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

For finishing something that is not flat (like a box) is it better to use wipe on finishes to avoid drips?


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Well I don't know about better but I think it is easier Nick. Lots of finishes out there to use though. Shellacs', poly's, wipe on poly, lacquer,. Another good wipe on finish is Danish oil. 

corey


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

gotcha. I'd like to try something besides brush on Poly just to get experience with something different. When the time gets closer to finishing I'll pick your brains...


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Nick,

I have had really nice results with a coat of Danish oil, let dry 24 hrs and then a coat of General Finishes Seal-A-Cell followed by another 24 hr dry. After that the Gereral Finishes semi-gloss wipe on poly of 3-4 coats with the final process as Corey described using steel wool and wax. It has worked excellent and I get lots of praises on the finish from the receivers.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Great stuff Bob! I will pick your brain once I get close to finishing. Like I said earlier this project will be in a holding pattern for the next week or so while I finish up another project (a yarn swift for a friend). I will also post photos of that project once it's complete. 

Thanks again!


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Nick,

I just found out that a new podcast was released today and just at the right time to help you along. Check it out, these are always fantastic.

http://www.woodworkingonline.com/category/podcast/


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Excellent link Bob. Thanks.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Great Video! I watched half tonight, will watch the other half tomorrow! 

THANKS!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bob N said:


> Nick,
> 
> I just found out that a new podcast was released today and just at the right time to help you along. Check it out, these are always fantastic.
> 
> http://www.woodworkingonline.com/category/podcast/


Thanks Bob, man they are coming out with them fairly quick these days. Still a lot more info in these than is in the TV show. Doug Hicks is my favorite by far. This was an excellent pod cast. 
Did you note he likes your favorite the best  I will have to give that a try. Note that if you watch David Marks and he almost exclusively uses tung oil. What he is actually using is the Arm R Seal which may or may not include tung oil. I expect it does but you don't know for sure. 

I can concur with Doug as I have some pure tung oil and it dries painfully slow. In fact I wiped it down until it was dry and poly'd over it. I now just use that tung oil to add to my wipe on mixture.. just a bit.. but probably doesn't need it. My favorite finish is minwax wipe on poly or my own made with regular gloss poly and mineral spirits. Because I tend to rub out my finish these days with wax ( thanks Harry) because I love that silky smooth finish I put on heavier coats to the level that it doesnt run but it is definitely a film left on it. I guild up 3 or 4 coats this way and wait 2 days and rub it out with steel wool and paste wax. Really easy nice finish but it doesn't give much protection but I like it for turnings and for boxes... stuff that is going to be held. 

One of the things that Doug said is the same that I have found and that is that Danish oil is very very watery. It supposedly soaks into the wood. I have never tried this but I wonder why this would be a good finish to put on pens? It will pop the grain but when dry should protect it and will be a nice satin finish. Because it is so watery.... I remember Harry talking about how glossy the Danish Oil finish he used on his clock and shiny. I can only thing that this is not a true danish oil and is actually a polymerized varnish instead. I liked the tip on rubbing it in with the sand paper as well. I might have to try that on a pen or two. 

corey


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

It was a great video (well the 1st half that I watched so far). On the project I'm finishing now (the yarn swift) I did one thing he mentioned. 3 layers of gloss poly followed by a light coat of satin spray poly. Since the light coat drys fast the dust issue is held to a minimum. For this box I'd rather stick to wipe-on stuff to avoid drips and such. Looking forward to working with some new stuff (new to me)...

Thanks again guys!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Nickbee said:


> It was a great video (well the 1st half that I watched so far). On the project I'm finishing now (the yarn swift) I did one thing he mentioned. 3 layers of gloss poly followed by a light coat of satin spray poly. Since the light coat drys fast the dust issue is held to a minimum. For this box I'd rather stick to wipe-on stuff to avoid drips and such. Looking forward to working with some new stuff (new to me)...
> 
> Thanks again guys!


Spray poly gives me lots of problems. I never get a nice finish with it... I know lots of people use it and like it and get good results but for me the finish gods don't smile on me. Seems like it is sticky forever and I just can't get a finish like I can a regular poly varnish or wipe on. Wonder what I am doing wrong. 

On my kitchen cabinets I used Minwax gloss poly -3 - 4 coats and the last coats on them was a wipe on semi-gloss. I didn't realize it was silicate that was in the finish, I thought it was finely ground glass that made semi gloss.

Corey


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

BTW,, is this joint considered a dado joint or a rabbit joint? Or neither?


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Nickbee said:


> BTW,, is this joint considered a dado joint or a rabbit joint? Or neither?


Nick,

If you are talking about the joint in your pictures, it is a rabbet or rebate joint. Daddos have 2 sides and rabbets have only one.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Rabbet, not rabbit... got it!  

I kept calling them daddos in my write up,,, but hey I’m learning!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Nickbee said:


> Rabbet, not rabbit... got it!
> 
> I kept calling them daddos in my write up,,, but hey I’m learning!



Actually and techinically he started with a Dado and ended up with a rabbet 
:sold: 

Corey


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

no no,, the dado was just to test the saw depth... The box pieces started with a small rabbet (one saw blade width wide) and continued from there...


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

So while driving home my mind was wandering (I hate it when that happens)..

My original plan was you have a cork lined ply bottom for this box. But since you will be able to see the inlays from the inside of the box it would be cool to have a walnut bottom. 

So what are my options? 

I could laminate a few pieces of the 1/32 stuff I’m using for inlays (or get 1/16 thick to make it more robust) to some ply... kinda like a thick veneer

Walnut ply? I saw this online… It’s much more than I need but I guess I could use it for other stuff:
http://www.woodnshop.com/hardwood/WALNUT_PLYWOOD.htm

Walnut veneer? This would be a good time to learn some veneering. But being the bottom of a box it might be too fragile and leave me for less opportunity to refinish at a later time.

Any other ideas?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi, NickBee

You can get 3/4" stock that is done, on one side or both ,it's made for to cabinets makers, it's clean and slick, the norm is white...

Neat stuff  

=========


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Nickbee said:


> no no,, the dado was just to test the saw depth... The box pieces started with a small rabbet (one saw blade width wide) and continued from there...


I got yah Nick  I thought you were cutting dado's and then cutting them back. 

Corey


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Nickbee said:


> So while driving home my mind was wandering (I hate it when that happens)..
> 
> My original plan was you have a cork lined ply bottom for this box. But since you will be able to see the inlays from the inside of the box it would be cool to have a walnut bottom.
> 
> ...



Well, while you have our minds 'wandering', if you have a band saw, you could glue-up pieces of solid Walnut, resaw slices, plane & sand, etc. and make your own veneer to cover the project.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

oookay...

I think 3/4 would be a bit thick for a 3.5" high box. And I'm limited to tools at this point, so no band saw or planer. But all good ideas. Right now I think the 1/4 walnut ply is my best bet. I'm sure I'll find a use for he extra. I don't care that only one side is finished. That's fine since the bottom of the box will have a layer of cork for furniture protection. The only side that will be visible will be the floor of the box...


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Tonight’s progress…

After removing the clamps here’s what I got. Lots of over hang to get rid of…










So 1st I attack them with my 5” disc sander…










No laughing! This thing is great for model building and small projects. BTW, if you want one you can find it here:

http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares.asp?MerchantID=RET01229&Action=Catalog&Type=Product&ID=82889

After getting close with the disc sander I finish up with some 220 sand paper. ..










And now we have clean edges on the inlays…










A quick mock up shows how 2 of the 3 inlays will look in the joint…










And here’s the view of the inlay as seen from inside the box…










So far so good!

Next after racking my brain some more I figured out where to glue the remaining 4 inlays…










And here they are clamped up and curing…










Tomorrow I get to mock up the box with all the inlays in place…

BTW,, is there a good small corner clamp(s) for when I glue this thing together?


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Looking good Nick! Nice work, looking forward to seeing more on this!

Corey


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Ok, the last 4 inlays are glued:










After sanding them flush the same was as the others it’s time for a mock up:



















Good news the joint looks decent. Once its clamped for gluing it should pull together nicely.

Bad news, I screwed up gluing the last 4 inlays, FLOCK! 










I ended up with symmetrical corners (that was not the plan) and a box that is now 6.5 x 7 (shhh don’t tell anyone)… this is what happens when you rely on coffee for focus. 

Oh well I guess I could cut the ends down and redo the rabbets, but then the grains will not match up from panel to panel as well as they do now. I have some time to kill so I’ll think it over. I have to get my walnut ply on order for the bottom and situate my router table so I can rabbet the bottom for the ply. So this project will be on hold for the next week or so. But I’m open to suggestions. I think I’ll just leave it and call the symmetrical corners a design feature. Ya, that’s a good idea!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Wonderful job, I think it looks great. I don't think I ahve ever seen any thing like that before. 

corey


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Thanks Corey!

This page was my inspiration…

http://www.leighjigs.com/gallery.php?pid=1&section=15

Amazing Stuff! 

Of course I don’t one of those jigs (yet) so I’m exploring a version I can make now. Once I get my router table situated I’ll try an inlayed finger joint.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

BTW, does anyone know of a cheaper alternative to this puppy:

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5964

I like how it clamps the corner and pushes it flush (the bottom) at the same time. 2 of these would work well on one corner at time. But that’s 70 bucks worth of clamps! I can “almost” justify the expense since box work is something I want to concentrate on for now… 

I’m taking a trip to my local Woodcraft store this weekend. Maybe they’ll be on sale… Ya right!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

It's an awful lot of money those clamps I think. Bob had a neat box squaring clamp he made from threaded rod and hardwood that I thought was pretty cool. I am sure he knows just where it is on the forum 

Corey


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

10, 9, 8, 7, (I'm counting down to Bob's response)...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nick

6,5,4,3,2,1,0

Here's ya go,,,, I have a set or two some made,with hardwood and some made with Alum.corner blocks , they work great, for small boxes and big ones...they also work great for picture frames...

========


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Apart from a collection of conventional corner clamps, these are my most common methods when making boxes. The "trays", in this case made for one of my "standard" size boxes but for non-standard ones it's only a matter of pinning for bits of scrap to an MDF board, twice.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Thanks Bob!!! I'm going to pick up some oak 1x2s this weekend and make a few sets of those!!!


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Nick,

Just to confuse the crowd a little more, this guy has yet another method. Watch toward the end of the video for his solution.   

http://youtube.com/watch?v=TaWyfkrIY8A&feature=related


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Yeeeeeeee Ha!!! That was a rooting tooting video!!!!

And great! Now I have two more jigs to make (two of those corner jigs)…

Thanks allot Bob!!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome Nick

Clamping can always be tricky, but the threaded rod and some scrap hardwood will make it a bit easyer,, Plus that's a neat trick Bob N posted with the tape and the pull in the corners with some blocks with holes in them.. 

Like they say you can't have to many clamps, I also use 1/4" and 3/8" rubber hose/tubing ( it's like a big rubber band that I can tie in a knot and slip it over just about any size box) quick and easy... rubber hose=surgical type hose/tubing..  same stuff they use for sling shots.. 

http://www.reefscuba.com/surgical_tubing.htm
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Nickbee said:


> Thanks Bob!!! I'm going to pick up some oak 1x2s this weekend and make a few sets of those!!!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bob, thanks for that link. Man, that Charles guy is awesome. Some great video on his site and I love his shop sign that shows his hours of business.... lol. Never seen that before!

Corey


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Nickbee,

Here may be something you might consider for clamping corners.

http://www.rockler.com/CategoryView.cfm?Cat_ID=1523


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Glad y'all ejoyed Charles Neil on YouTube. He has all kinds of vids on there and many are very interesting. He is a very skilled WW and has been generous in sharing his knowledge thru that media as well as others. He has a nice web site and is a very personable guy to swap a few words with as well.

Of course our own BJ is even more fun and helpful here.... now if we can just talk him into videos


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Bob

I just may do that some day 


==========


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

hell,,, hey since this is a router forum I will share this...

I took some pics and vids while I was working on my friend's yarn swift (it's used for knitting, I get a scarf out of the deal)... She wanted pics of my progress so she could post them on her blog. Turns out the videos of the power tools where a hit with the ladies,,, 

Here I'm using a round over bit on the swift arms:

http://www.nickbee.com/vids/swift3.wmv

When I'm done with it next week I'll post some pics...


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Hey nice job Nick. You did good and should do some more of that. 

Bob, those vids are great, I have been watching them on and off all night!

Corey


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Thanks Corey...

I picked up one these "tri-pods" from an Eddie Bauer store for 20ish bucks:

http://www.joby.com/products/gorillapod/original/

With that I can set my camera on a shelf or hang it from my shop light! good stuff!


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Look forward to more of your vids Nick now that you will have a tripod.


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

FYI,

This project is officially dead! After checking the joints when clamping everything up there were gaps in the joints / inlays (to the point where it did not look great). I think it’s just my 1950’s table saw that is not accurate enough to make precise rabbets. The wood will not go to waste. I’ll cut it down and use it for my 1st dovetail box on my Incra fence (if I ever get it in). Look for a new post soon!


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Nickbee said:


> FYI,
> 
> This project is officially dead! After checking the joints when clamping everything up there were gaps in the joints / inlays (to the point where it did not look great). I think it’s just my 1950’s table saw that is not accurate enough to make precise rabbets. The wood will not go to waste. I’ll cut it down and use it for my 1st dovetail box on my Incra fence (if I ever get it in). Look for a new post soon!



I'm sorry to hear that! It was looking SO GOOD!

Are you sure you can't use a little Filler / epoxy here & there to salvage it?


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## Nickbee (Nov 9, 2007)

Ya I thought of that too. But it's just not working to my liking. Once I have my router table set up maybe I'll attempt this design again using a spiral bit to cut accurate rabbets. But I might be too busy making double dovetails ...


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Nickbee said:


> Ya I thought of that too. But it's just not working to my liking. Once I have my router table set up maybe I'll attempt this design again using a spiral bit to cut accurate rabbets. But I might be too busy making double dovetails ...


Here's an idea...

Use a 1/8" router bit and a straightedge to even-out the uneven spots by cutting a 1/8" groove maybe 1/16 - 1/8" deep to be filled (inlayed) with an accent piece!  

Think about it...

Route the uneveness away!


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## Roefa (Sep 14, 2007)

Hi Nick -
This is gonna be a good series... I like all the pictures!
I'm really intrigued with your magnetic 90 degree clamp/jigs !
I'm definitely gonna' build some of those ! Handy!
My son ordered me some magnets to play with... (he knows I'm such a kid at heart) they may be of interest to some of you folks... These things are outrageously strong... almost dangerous, 'cause they can pinch you if you let them snap together.
Here's just one size from one vendor:

http://cgi.ebay.com/10-Neodymium-Ma...ryZ53142QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem 

Be sure to browse around, because the price for the same item varies substantially between vendors. 

One more tip: a lot of my project wood (walnut, oak, maple, poplar, old pine, etc.) comes from beat-up cheap yard sale furniture... less convenient than the hobby store, but WAY cheaper... errrr... let's say Thrifty ! LOL

Roger


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Roefa said:


> Hi Nick -
> This is gonna be a good series... I like all the pictures!
> I'm really intrigued with your magnetic 90 degree clamp/jigs !
> I'm definitely gonna' build some of those ! Handy!
> ...



WOW! Those magnets look like they will hold like Clamps!! You might even scrape a knuckle or two pulling them apart!


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