# Horizontal router table



## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi

I have a question re a pivoting, or sliding attachment for a horizontal router table. Most of the plans I've seen have the horizontal platform pivoting on a bolt, with the other end secured in place by another bolt which pokes through a curved slot in the vertical fence. I'm just wondering if having the horizontal platform slide up and down on two vertical slots, would be a better solution? Or more difficult to adjust?

Any feed back appreciated!

Matthew

PS- have attached a screen grab of one I found on the net. The concept (pivoting) is the same - mine just doesn't have the "box" under the horizontal platform - it's simply a horizontal platform with a vertical rabetted/screwed/glued to it. It's made of 18mm marine ply, so should be sturdy enough - but might add a brace at the intersection of vertical/horizontal just for safety. Will also make an adjustable (simple slot/wingnut) support for the router itself - I'm afraid if it hanging off the mounting plate with 4 small bolts, with no support and all that leverage. It's a big router - a 3612C.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Numerous ways to design this. Personally, I prefer an adjustable parallel vertical track using threaded rod as a positioning mechanism. Maintaining precise angular relationships, and solid final-position clamping are the keys, I think.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Matthew:

I believe Bob's design is an excellent one. Ralph is probably referring to this design. I've yet to see better.

http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/9782-best-both-worlds.html

Mind you, Bill Hylton has a good one in his book _Woodworking With The Router_. (I think it was this book -- I might be wrong.)

Cassandra


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Certainly looks like a very proficient setup, however at this stage, more complicated than I need. Mine is much simpler - based on the plans depicted here. Have attached a few pics of mine (not yet complete) - the horizontal platform is currently held in place with two clamps - these are to be replaced with (probably) a bolt as a pivot point, and a curved track - as in the plans. 

I'm struggling to see how having the horizontal platform angled relative to the bit, won't cause problems - at least when I attempt to measure how much material will be removed. If the platform was horizontal, then I'd simply measure from the underside of the bit to the platform. With the platform angled (ie not horizontal), won't I have to measure the distance between the platform and the closest point the bit comes to that - likely on the right hand end of the bit, when feeding left to right? 

I think I may be having a comprehension blockage on this - but thought it best to check with the experts!


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Matthew:

You are correct, in how to measure the distance from the fence/platform to the bit. It doesn't matter what orientation the fence/platform is to the world. It's the distance from bit to fence/platform that matters. The distance should be measured perpendicular to the fence/platform. 

Cassandra


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

I'm not a expert BUT in the picture of the plans it shows the wrong way to feed the stock into the bit it must be done just backwards of the normal router table.
This is the one time you want to use a sled..you don't need a sled when you do panels becasue you have the mass of the panel...but a hold down device is must the bit will want to lift the stock up and off the bit..and it will take off like a rocket.


http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/23364-mitered-raised-panel-doors.html
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matt1710 said:


> Certainly looks like a very proficient setup, however at this stage, more complicated than I need. Mine is much simpler - based on the plans depicted here. Have attached a few pics of mine (not yet complete) - the horizontal platform is currently held in place with two clamps - these are to be replaced with (probably) a bolt as a pivot point, and a curved track - as in the plans.
> 
> I'm struggling to see how having the horizontal platform angled relative to the bit, won't cause problems - at least when I attempt to measure how much material will be removed. If the platform was horizontal, then I'd simply measure from the underside of the bit to the platform. With the platform angled (ie not horizontal), won't I have to measure the distance between the platform and the closest point the bit comes to that - likely on the right hand end of the bit, when feeding left to right?
> 
> I think I may be having a comprehension blockage on this - but thought it best to check with the experts!


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Thanks Bob & Cassandra. I haven't delved into the feed direction yet, but rest assured I will...after my last mix up!

Will be putting a track in the table for my recently purchased Incra Mitre gauge - might as well use it I guess. I may well build a small sled too, with some horizontal toggle clamps. 

Any tips on how to best measure between bit and horizontal platform? Looks tricky to me...

Have done a diagram of my setup - look right to you?

Matthew


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/3014-new-toy.html

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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

Hi Bob - wow - that's a fancy sled! Looks very good. Does the feather board perform a role in that setup?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt 

I made a over the top gauge to set the bit it's not needed but it sure makes it easy to set the bit and it must be set dead on if you want the cut to come out right every time..I do get carried away sometimes with jigs/fixtures .. LOL..


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matt1710 said:


> Thanks Bob & Cassandra. I haven't delved into the feed direction yet, but rest assured I will...after my last mix up!
> 
> Will be putting a track in the table for my recently purchased Incra Mitre gauge - might as well use it I guess. I may well build a small sled too, with some horizontal toggle clamps.
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

" feather board " = No,,the mass of the sled keeps it down.  by the way a tee slot is not needed...a simple 1/4" thick board on both sides of the sled will work just as well.

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matt1710 said:


> Hi Bob - wow - that's a fancy sled! Looks very good. Does the feather board perform a role in that setup?


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Matt
> 
> I'm not a expert BUT in the picture of the plans it shows the wrong way to feed the stock into the bit it must be done just backwards of the normal router ta


Hi Bob:

The feed direction, given the bit is cutting the upper surface, is correct for the bit rotation. (You're technique of cutting the lower surface would have the correct feed direction of left-to-right.)

However, the problem I have with the images is that one should not cut the top surface, as shown. The workpiece is between the bit and the "fence" -- a definite no-no! 

So, you are right -- the feed direction should be left-to-right *AND* the bit should not be cutting the top surface.

Cassandra


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

I learnt that "never trap the stock between bit and fence" rule on my last mistake - thankfully no fingers lost - just work piece destroyed. I think you taught me that too Cassandra - thanks!

Will make sure I get it right for this application, when I finally pass some stock through the new HRT.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cassandra

I have done it both ways, the key is the sled for me, do you have a HR table ???

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orde...rizontal_router_table.html#horiz_video_anchor

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Cassandra said:


> Hi Bob:
> 
> The feed direction, given the bit is cutting the upper surface, is correct for the bit rotation. (You're technique of cutting the lower surface would have the correct feed direction of left-to-right.)
> 
> ...


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## matt1710 (Sep 21, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> I do get carried away sometimes with jigs/fixtures .. LOL..
> 
> 
> ========


An understatement there Bob?


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Cassandra
> do you have a HR table ???


No, Bob, I don't. It's on my to-do list.

Cassandra


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