# BandSaw Tension Problem



## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

My blade adjustment screw on a Grizzly G0555P Will not loosen or tighten. I am wondering if the adjustment screw got bent or the threads messed up. The picture below is not of mine but is for reference.

On my saw the screw is almost bottomed out to the frame and am guessing that if the blade was tight and then the quick release lever was pulled down to apply tension the screw bent? or the threads got messed up?

If that is the case what is the correct way/easy way to get the old screw out and the new one in?


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Dont have that machine so this is not specific..
A threaded bolt shouldnt be so soft that it would compress the threads just from that short lever throw.
Are you sure there isnt a grub screw locking it in place?
If not then its either been cross threaded on the way in, or it has corroded in there.
Some wd 40 lubricant and brute force is your only real answer. If the head strips then youre down to pipe grips, and if that fails its a centre drill and screw extractor.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

sunnybob said:


> Some wd 40 lubricant and brute force is your only real answer..


Actually, Widdley Diddley 40 isn't that good.

Try a 50-50 mix of acetone and ATF. (automatic transmission fluid)

In a series of tests performed by several machinists some time ago, NONE of the proprietary products on the market came close...even though they may cost several times as much.

I buy a gallon of each and mix at a 50-50 ratio, put some in a plastic spray bottle and it lasts for ages. It really does work.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

good god, what the hell does a gallon of atf and a gallon of acetone cost? Must be the same as a thousand cans of wd 40. just how many million rusted bolts do you deal with?. (lol)


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I only use Kroil penterating oil. Try a can of it and I think you will agree. You use so little it last a home DIY a long time. 

Google Deal

PS- I like the spray best.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

sunnybob said:


> good god, what the hell does a gallon of atf and a gallon of acetone cost? Must be the same as a thousand cans of wd 40. just how many million rusted bolts do you deal with?. (lol)


so mix batches by the 250 ~ 500 ML ..
Keith was right on target...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> so mix batches by the 250 ~ 500 ML ..
> Keith was right on target...


Kroil is definitely an outstanding product. It WILL break out a rusted bolt if allowed to work. Wasted Dollars-40 won't even come close.

As for the cost of Keith's concoction, a gallon of Acetone is around $18 (USD), ATF can be had at discount stores for around $2.50 a quart (any generic will do). 

Like Stick says, mix small batches as needed. 

$28 for TWO gallons is a lot more cost effective then a $20 a gallon product like WD-40, and you'll get better results.

I learned a long time ago to keep raw components around. There are a lot of "mixtures" that use the same ingredients, that, if combined in the proper ratios will do a whole host of chores.

I got tired of having my expensive gun barrel cleaners either dry up or go bad. Small bottles were too expensive and larger bottles didn't stay fresh.

I started using a homemade solution (Ed's Red Gun Cleaning Solution) that has been around for decades. I Just keep the raw components around (and use them for other things) and mix up as I need it.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

now to get @Nickp to chime in...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Seems like we're concentrating on freeing up the screw and you may have other problems...time to get the ole magnifying glass out and play Sherlock Holmes...

Maybe a picture of yours with closeups...?



...but if you need to make a penetrating solution, I recommend "SnorkSnot"...see picture below of the label... 

That 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF is a real winner...and as Bill suggested, mix up as needed and keep raw materials available for other uses...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Not sure what is stuck...#33 or #131 in parts diagram (back of your manual)...? 131 does have a set screw to lock it in place. If 33 is stuck, bottom nut #39 could be the culprit. Typically, adjustment should be made disengaged, then engage to see result. Maybe threads might be damaged in 39 from adjusting under pressure...? Is 131 not adjusted properly not letting you making further adjustments...?

You might also try taking the blade off the saw in case there is too much pressure even when disengaged...see if screw loosens up...


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

(Ed's Red Gun Cleaning Solution) Yep when I shot Bulls Eye National Match that was the best there was. I would bet it's still as good as whats out there now.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

hawkeye10 said:


> (Ed's Red Gun Cleaning Solution) Yep when I shot Bulls Eye National Match that was the best there was. I would bet it's still as good as whats out there now.


Absolutely! I can't believe that people pay the exhortation prices for cleaning solutions. Hoppe's change formulation and went into the toilet. The others were overpriced and in some cases, totally ineffective. 

I found that Ed's Red cleaned just as well as any of them and in some cases tightened my groups in competition. 

The formulation is easy and has been around for over 60 years. Just to give you an idea; the original used Sperm Whale Oil. When it became scarce in the mid 40's-50's it was replaced with the ATF. 

For those who don't know the first couple original automatic transmissions used SWO base fluid, not ATF.

For those interested look up Ed's Red Cleaning Solution. For those too lazy; 1:1 ratios of: Dextron, Mineral Spirits, Acetone, and Kerosene. You can also add Lanolin but it isn't necessary. It is great for carbon fouling and general cleaning. Copper removal require you add a little household Ammonia to knock loose the Lead/Copper fouling.


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## oldyam (Aug 2, 2015)

The Acetone - ATF mix works well on freeing up seized nuts & bolts on old motorcycles, been using it for years !!


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

schnewj said:


> For those interested look up Ed's Red Cleaning Solution. For those too lazy; 1:1 ratios of: Dextron, Mineral Spirits, Acetone, and Kerosene. You can also add Lanolin but it isn't necessary. It is great for carbon fouling and general cleaning. Copper removal require you add a little household Ammonia to knock loose the Lead/Copper fouling.


You mention Dextron ATF so does that mean Ford's type F ATF not work? Dextron was GM's ATF in the older days? If you had a Ford trany it called for Ford type F ATF. I think in the end Dextron turned out to be the better ATF fluid.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

coxhaus said:


> You mention Dextron ATF so does that mean Ford's type F ATF not work? Dextron was GM's ATF in the older days? If you had a Ford trany it called for Ford type F ATF. I think in the end Dextron turned out to be the better ATF fluid.


no on the type F yes on any of the Dextrons...


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Thanks Bob and Nick for addressing the other possible problems with the tension screw not moving. Nick attached are some close ups of my saw. The only thing I saw close up that is not seen in the pics is very small damage (1/8") to 2 threads where the lower lock (131 B) collar would have been probably caused by the set screw. Both lock collars move freely up and down with set screw loosened. 

So... last night I ordered a replacement Tension Screw. What can I do now to find out what the problem is? How to get to (39) the threaded square washer to see if it has bad threads? How do I remove the Tension Screw if need be?

Thanks for the knowledge and advice. PS had to use the cellphone for a camera so the pics are not upright.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Marco said:


> So... last night I ordered a replacement Tension Screw.
> 
> What can I do now to find out what the problem is?
> *Best method would be disassembly and inspection. Not sure what would have caused the bottom of the tension screw to have the threads get messed up unless it was that way from the start and you just never had to get there.*
> ...


Hope this helps...sorry I didn't respond earlier...busy day yesterday.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Marco...for added safety, give Grizzly a call to make sure there will be no problem to disassemble the housing holding the spring and nut. Just so there are no problems with the wheel alignment hinge...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Marco...just checking in...how you making out with the tension screw...?


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Nickp said:


> Marco...just checking in...how you making out with the tension screw...?


I've been pulling 12 hour shifts in the 100 degree heat so haven't worked on it but plan to this weekend. I had planned to PM you this evening to you to tell you that and let you know that I appreciate your direction.

I wouldn't call the damage to the threads a problem as it is between the 2 lock collars and the collars screw right by them with out a hitch. I plan to start by taking the blade off and go from there to trying to back out the Tension screw. 

I am not wanting to break anything on the BS or cause a bigger problem by tearing it apart and not putting it back together where it runs right. That is the reason for the questions and concern.

Wish me luck, I imagine I will be in more need of direction this weekend. Thanks


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Be happy to help if I can...a call to Grizzly will be helpful...good luck...stay out of the heat...


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Nut


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Nice job with the disassembly...talk with you Sunday...


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Nick, I have it assembled but left it with no tension and the stop collars loose. I need help setting the tension correctly with stop collars and Tension screw in correct locations and quick release lever working properly. Trying to avoid the same problem again.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Just to make sure we're not fighting something else, had you changed the blade recently...? If so, suggest comparing the two to make sure the new one is not a bit longer. That will make a difference as to where the upper collar goes...

If you did not change the blade, it will be a bit of trial and error...


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Nickp said:


> Just to make sure we're not fighting something else, had you changed the blade recently...? If so, suggest comparing the two to make sure the new one is not a bit longer. That will make a difference as to where the upper collar goes...
> 
> If you did not change the blade, it will be a bit of trial and error...


I went from my usual 3/8" to 3/4" for a bunch of re-sawing for a week. Actually blew 2 fuses when starting up the BS (Too tight)? Then back to the 3/8 for some BS boxes. It was a little hard to turn the tension screw and had to pull on the upper wheel to loosen it up a little. A week later went to put on a 1/8" blade and the Tension screw would not budge.

When I eventually removed the Tension Screw I wold say the bolt had a little bend in it at the square nut. The square nut with force unscrewed from the old screw but had to be re-threaded for it to easily thread on the new tension screw.

You can see the thread damage to the threads and possible bend about 2" from the point. on the other end you can see some of the thread damage from the set screw of the lock collar.

I ended up snapping the metal screw at the handle while unscrewing the square nut.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Thanks Nick for the run through on setting the tension. Below is a pic of it with the tension set with a 3/8" blade. I ran the BS my making a BS box and it worked well. I still am paranoid about how close the bottom of the screw is to the frame. I guess resetting the Blade Tensioner every time a new/different size blade is added is the solution to my paranoia.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

blade not the right size/length???


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Yep,105" blade for the 6" riser. It's been frustrating the last few days trying to get it fixed and set correctly. I'm wondering if the operator has gone bad. :|


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Glad you're back in business, Jim...any time...


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

With a lot of help I finally have my BS fixed and tuned. Below is the tension screw well away from the frame where it needs to be,

Grizzly has great Technical support, Joe ran me through the dismantle Friday and getting the Tension screw up where it belongs today.

For those interested....... To get the Tension Screw up and away from the frame I needed to release the tension lever to the vertical position... loosen the set screw on the lower small lock collar and screw it down toward to the frame..... Pull down on the quick release lever and loosen the set screw on the upper big lock collar and screw that down to touch the horizontal bars.... Repeat until the Tension Screw is up then tighten both lock collars set screws.

Thanks for everyone's input!


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