# Looking for a air compressor what is important



## Gary Wiant (Jun 7, 2017)

I'm trying to build my shop tools as I can and I'm looking for a decent entry level vertical air compressor (around $300) all I use my current air compressor for is to blow off dust after sanding & my brad nailer but I'd like to eventually get some pneumatic tools. My current is a small harbor freight pancake compressor.

What should I look for? 
Capacity? (20 - 30 gallon or more) 
Horse Power?
Max PSI? (125 - 175PSI)
Oil less?

Anything else? I have been looking at one at Home Depot I cant remember the specs but it costs $209

Any help is appreciated 
Gary
Capacity?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Been there done this. Your not going to run any pneumatic tools other than a nailer unless you pay much more than that . Well that being said ,sure you can , but for mere seconds .

I would look at the required pressure for what tools may be of interest to you in the future , and make sure the new one meets the requirements .

I really goofed in the past,as I could have gotten a Campbell hausfeld with 4 cylinders for $700 years ago , as they couldn’t sell it and offered it to me at cost . 
It was a single stage and was rated at 19 psi @ 120 cfm. .
Unfortunately I didn’t realize I needed a bigger service to run it, so I took it back . Kicking myself for not storing it . 
Now it’s going to cost me 3K for a dual stage


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## tulowd (Jan 24, 2019)

The most important specification is delivered cfm at 90 psi, which is a common working pressure.
Bigger is better. I built my own head using Harbor Freight two cylinder pump and their biggest 240V electric motor (3 hp) and used my old 60 gall tank, inlet and modified the blow off valve. Total cost about $ 400 incl a new pulley and the adjustable belts. To buy something similar to this setup would be $1200+.

It delivers about 15 cfm at 90 psi which is enough to run any of the cheap tools including my sand blasting cabinet and a big impact gun. Compressor is quiet and runs only some of the time with the big air hog tools like the cheap die grinders. Plumbed it entirely in 1/2" iron pipe for safety (I weld and grind in there as well) and access; with plenty of downruns with drains. Make sure your tank has an easily accessible drain - compressing air heats it up dramatically, which will condense inside the tank......which is not bueno for your tools lifespan.

Anything below 7 cfm will end up running all the time while using most tools; having too much compressor means it will be quiet and not wear out prematurely. 

If you are on a budget, I would consider the HF 21 or 29 gallon models, although they are both too small to run a real tool. Don't be fooled by the hp ratings, all that matters is how much air volume at real pressure is available. There are plenty of suppliers out there from Craftsman to Husky that should be able to provide you something decent for under $500. Reality is that you should spend more and get something with large pump and large compressor lines and outlets.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

If you are going to run air tools you'll want a compressor capable of maintaining the CFM required for your largest air consuming tool, without having the compressor running constantly. For instance, a sander, grinder, or an air wrench will need around 60-70 CFM at 90 to 120 psi. For me, that translates to a 80 to 150 gallon of capacity, a two stage compressor and at least a 7 hp 220 motor. My tank is an 80 gallon and, I don't run out of air but, I only use one air tool at a time. If I had a two man shop, I'd probably need an auxiliary air tank.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Gary, the problem I have with most compressors is the noise. They drive me up the wall. So after shopping around I settled on a Cal-Air Ultra quiet 10gal Compressor. It has 2 compressors run off one motor. (Direct drive one off each end)
It is quieter than any compressor I have ever had, and they are on sale now. 
I can run nail guns but not air driven tools off of it. But that doesn't bother me,as I can work around the air tools part.
They are worth checking out,they have lots of options.

https://ultraquietaircompressor.com...ltra-Quiet-Oil-Free-Compressor-CAT-10020C.htm

Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Mine's one of those 20Gal portable 129/240 V jobs I think the output at 90psi is about 6cfm. I can run my pneumatic ROS off it but it only takes I think 2cfm...I posted a thread about it when i bought it. It'll also run my die grinder. Having said that it's most definitely too small a capacity. If it was a 3HP 220V oil filled vertical unit I'd be a happy camper.
https://www.kmstools.com/ingersoll-rand-3-hp-60-gallon-air-compressor-376


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Gary,

For $300 you'll have to find a used air compressor to run any real air tools other than nailers. The only way to figure out how big of a compressor you need is to find the tools first. I had a compressor that could just run 1/4" air drills and my small peanut grinder, but it took forever to press up when I started working, and was way overkill when just using the nailers. I realized I had corded or battery tools that did almost everything the air tools did, so I sold it.

In it's place I bought a California Air silent air compressor, which I love. It's small, but it has never failed to keep up with my guns when I am using it. The trade off of capacity for noise has been well worth it.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

kp91 said:


> Gary,
> 
> For $300 you'll have to find a used air compressor to run any real air tools other than nailers. The only way to figure out how big of a compressor you need is to find the tools first. I had a compressor that could just run 1/4" air drills and my small peanut grinder, but it took forever to press up when I started working, and was way overkill when just using the nailers. I realized I had corded or battery tools that did almost everything the air tools did, so I sold it.
> 
> In it's place I bought a California Air silent air compressor, which I love. It's small, but it has never failed to keep up with my guns when I am using it. The trade off of capacity for noise has been well worth it.


I was going to mention used , but I’d never do it . I gave my CH away ,as it kept blowing my breaker .
My co worker had no issues running it, but then the tank blew up because I didn’t release the air every time after I used it , and it rusted internally


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I have a cobbled together system like Paul described in post 3 also with a 3hp motor. It will run a 1/2” impact and a die grinder but I have to stop periodically and let it catch up. I also have a portable (barely) stacked little twin tank that sells in the price range you are looking at. It’s quick at getting up to pressure but also very noisy. I’m usually wearing ear muffs so that doesn’t bother me that much. It would run a 3/8 air ratchet okay but I’d be doing a fair amount of waiting with a impact or a die grinder. It is big enough to run a spray gun where something smaller might be pushed too hard.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Hehehe I got a small HF compressor a few years back. All I've ever used it for is to pump up some car tires, which was what I got it for in the first place. A bit slow perhaps, but does the job, so I'm content.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I have a Junn-Air pancake style compressor that I frequently use with my nailers. The first time that I turned it on I thought it was broken, because the light came on and there was no noise (I was in the quieter end of a noisy shop). Then I realized that air was coming out of the tank bleeder. I closed it and the tank pressure began to rise. In a quiet room, it makes about as much noise as a refrigerator. It's only 4 cfm at 90 psi, but it runs one of my nailers quite well at the speed that this old guy drives nails. It's also great to use when I do my power carving demos at trade shows, etc. I use a dentist type carver unit with 1/16" shank dentist bits for this. 

In my shop I have an Ingersol Rand 14.5 cfm 5 hp 80 gallon compressor because I very occasionally do spray painting and sand blasting outside the shop. When doing either it is a small scale operation and I use a refrigerated dryer in the line to the tool when doing this because neither can handle even the slightest amount of moisture in the air. I also install a filter called a "toilet paper filter", because the filter element is actually a roll of toilet paper. It's a favorite for automotive paint & body shops. The line from the compressor that goes inside my shop has a line filter and regulator in the shop, but does not go through the refrigerated dryer. I use so little air inside the shop that I've never had moist air problems in the shop air. 

The tank drain was an automatic unit that purged the condensate every time the compressor shut off, but I went through three of these and all began leaking badly in only a few months of use. I ended up just piping the drain into a 3" X 12" galvanized pipe nipple with a series of bushings at each end to go from 1/2" - 3" and then on the output end from 3" to 1/2", forming a cheap and heavy duty reservoir tank for the condensate, so the condensate builds up in this tank instead of in my compressor tank. On the outlet I added a ball valve and then several sections of 1/2" pipe and elbows to route this drain out through the side of my compressor shed and down toward the ground. Whenever I happen to go into the compressor shed, or more often when I'm sand blasting or spray painting, I just open the ball valve and vent the condensate for a few seconds. The air blast usually scares the geese on the lake as well as the neighbor's dog, but otherwise it works well. No more leaky valves, it works very well, and there's no condensate in my compressor tank to rust it. I shut off the power to this compressor when I leave the shop, but never bleed off the pressure, unless I need to do repairs. I can be away from my shop for 3 or 4 days and when I return there is still 90-100 psi in the tank. I think it's safer to leave the tank at pressure than to bleed it off after each use and then fill it back up and re-stress it the next time that it's needed, as long as the system has no serious air leaks.

Charley


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## Gary Wiant (Jun 7, 2017)

Thanks everyone for the advice. As for air tools the only tool I'd really be interested in right now is a 5" or 6" orbital sander. I'll check the tool and see what the requirements are for the tool and search accordingly. I am interested in building one of the DIY compressors

Thanks again keep the ideas and recommendations coming

Thanks
Gary


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

I was in the same boat as you a couple years ago. Looked pretty deep into things and ended up buying a stand up 30 gal Kobalt from Lowes for around $400. It got better reviews than the the Husky from HD. Keep it in the garage and it works fine for all I use it for. Have no problems spraying with it and anything else I needed it for. I have a 6 gal Performax (Menards) in the basement I use for blowing dust around the machines and small tools.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Gary Wiant said:


> Thanks everyone for the advice. As for air tools the only tool I'd really be interested in right now is a 5" or 6" orbital sander. I'll check the tool and see what the requirements are for the tool and search accordingly. I am interested in building one of the DIY compressors
> 
> Thanks again keep the ideas and recommendations coming
> 
> ...


Orbital sanders use a lot of air. I had a 5” and gave it away as my 5.5 cfm HC wouldn’t run it for more than 5 seconds .It had a small tank though, but regardless of tank size, it would always be playing catch up . It only gave me about 20 seconds with a drill , which was disappointing.

I never thought about building one, and had no idea that was an option .

Here’s the one I gave away which was pretty much useless unless your running nailers or paint guns .
My next ones going to be a dual stage and be done with it


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Your Campbell Hausfeld should be able to handle either of these pneumatic ROSanders. The jitterbug style is a copy of the old Clarke (sp?) jitterbug. I've had a couple over the years and they've been OK. The only caution is they really don't like moisture in the air supply. It'll turn fine sawdust into mucky goop.
The first one below is my current ROS and I'm really happy with it. Built in vacuum port and uses hook and loop discs with punched holes in them. I see that the price has doubled since I bought mine...
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/6-in-random-orbital-air-sander/A-p8344541e
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/jitterbug-air-sander/A-p8572612e


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Yeh, I think I'd like to try this stuff...
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/professional-air-tool-conditioner/A-p8763708e


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## Nobodi (Oct 22, 2015)

I think it will use more power to run the compressor for the orbital air sander than a corded sander as well as being noisier.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nobodi said:


> I think it will use more power to run the compressor for the orbital air sander than a corded sander as well as being noisier.


definitely on all points...


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## Gary Wiant (Jun 7, 2017)

Maybe I won't use the compressor to run an orbital sander than. I assumed that it would be quieter with air 0ower but if not I'll just stay with my corded orbital sander and be back to just using my compressor for blowing off work pieces and inflating tires & such. 

I'll look at the 30 gal. Kobalt

Thank you 
Gary


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## tulowd (Jan 24, 2019)

If you are interested in building your own; here is what I used from HF:

Pump: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...-twin-cylinder-air-compressor-pump-67698.html

Motor: https://www.harborfreight.com/3-hp-compressor-duty-motor-68302.html

Belts (it runs a dual belt): https://www.harborfreight.com/vibration-free-link-belt-43771.html

Motor Pulley: 5/8 shaft with 3/16 keyway - I tried several until I slowed the pump down enough for app 1050 pump rpm for greatest efficiency.

Below are some pics. The oil can be changed easily, the link belts allow for super tight belt tension. If I was to do it again, I would put the motor onto a slider with a dual bolt tensioner - if the belts aren't really tight (I mean like 3 ft prybar tight) they will slip and burn. This pump is very serious.

Also, keep in mind a lot of the inexpensive tools require about double the air volume of an expensive precision tool. Staplers and nail guns are easy peasy for most compressors. The worst air hogs are impact guns die grinders and sanders. They will easily utilize double or triple their rated airflow (since these are usually free/no load specs). Once you actually use them, they will choke on any of the small compressors, making for a frustrating and imprecise experience. Also, they can spit out oil (which needs to go into each tool before every use) and condensation, making a mess. Rear and adjustable exhaust ports are nice to have; as is some kind of inline dryer with some water traps. Using iron pipe with slightly angled runs and down pipes with ball valves at the bottom allows you to dump most of the condensation within the piping prior to it hitting the tool.

A small compressor will run all the time, get way hotter than a big one, putting more water into your air stream. The tank should have an easily accessible bottom drain.

I leave my 60 gall filled unless I go away for more than a week, also releasing pressure out of the piping and hoses. One thing I wish I had done was put the compressor into the shed, so it would be out of the way and quieter, altho it is way quieter than the old integrated Sears Craftsman Pro 5 hp head. Run a single large dia pipe into the garage, along with the electric controls and two ball valves so everything can be disconnected and shut down easily.
One or more separate regulators are also advisable, since nailers require lower pressure and you want the highest pressure and volume available at the tank.
I modded the blow off valve to 145 psi from it's original 130. This was done through the adjustable diaphragm and has helped the motor run a little less. All of the parts and connectors etc are super cheap at HF. Dont forget to keep an eye on their sales and coupons, I think I paid $115 for the pump and motor each a couple of years ago. The pipe is in stock in various lengths at HD or Lowes; don't forget to use pipe dope. I should have bought a pipe thread cutter and made my own, but there is over 100 ft of it in my garage, so I went a little nuts.

You can build all the distribution pipe and basically connect any compressor, so you can grow with it. Also, it is possible to run compressors in parallel for improved air volume delivery. Lots of info out there, I would stay away from PEX and plastic style piping - compressed air leak can create a serious problem in a wood shop environment - dust explosion and fire stoker being two that come to mind. All hoses should have an easily accessible ball valve shut off where they connect to the piping, as well as a master air and electrical power shut off.

Lots of info out there on the design and running of piping and how to make it work.
I realize working on cars, and having several dozen air tools, my perspective is different than most on here.........spoiled with real air supply is not a bad thing. Kinda like having a cabinet saw or industrial grade router table, dust collector and band saw.....which I bet most have on here lol.

Hope this helps a bit.


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## tulowd (Jan 24, 2019)

The pulleys and belt are captured between the head and surrounding walls, so I declined to build a cage for it. If it was exposed and could pose a danger I would have but it's not necessary, especially since the compressor is tucked in the furthest corner, well away from work spaces.

The appropriate copper piping was a pain to find - ended up shilling 4 feet from a contractors van in the parking lot of the local plumbing supply store, since they only sold 50 ft coils of it. $20 well spent.

Only complaint I have is this tank's inlet and outlets are too small, but I decided not to try to mod them. A real 80 gallon tank would have much larger ports installed and not present any restrictions the way mine does. Still, it works amazing; and it's way quieter than the old version and the little portable 8 gall unit I also have.

:smile:


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## Gary Wiant (Jun 7, 2017)

Is there a way to get a bigger tank 50 - 80 gal without having to purchase a cheaper compressor first? 
Thanks


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You can buy tanks separately. I picked up an old air tank from a logging truck air system. Which reminds me I should give it a few taps and see how sound it still is. I’ve been using it for 20 years about. Most of not all truck systems include an air dryer so the insides should be pretty good. The more conscientious truckers still drain their tanks regularly.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

To get rid of noise , I’ve always thought it would be a great idea to have the compressor installed in my tool shed . But then I’d have to insulate and heat the tool shed also.
Baby steps I’m telling


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Gary; you can hook up a portable tank at the end of the run, assuming it's permanently plumbed through the workshop. This would increase your reserve air substantially, but the compressor still can only supply what it can supply, so it ends up running less often but for longer each cycle. There is no simple solution that's cheap. 
On the pneumatic ROS issue, they're a hellovalot less expensive than a decent electric sander, and waaaay faster and lighter! I think mine is 10K RPM at full throttle. Also, less that can go wrong mechanically.
But yeh, you will have the compressor coming on in the background.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I'm going to give that Kobalt a look. I (somewhare) have an attachment to remove moisture from the compressed air. An air compressor water trap. I don't see one on the compressors shown, may have overlooked it, but I think it would probably help. Any input on that?


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I use a Craftsman oilesss 30 gallon that I got many years ago. It's noisy but gets the job done. You need a large tank if the tool you are using needs a lot of air. This would be something like a sander or paint gun. The psi should be around 150 but look for something with the highest cfm that you can afford. You can get by with a smaller tank if you have a high cfm. As I said my tank is only 30 gallon but I have used it for painting without much problem although I had to get a gun that required a lower cfm. For the rest of the tools it's fine. The only good thing I would say is that the smaller tank can be rolled around to where you need it.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Yeh, I think I'd like to try this stuff...
> https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/professional-air-tool-conditioner/A-p8763708e


It will clean your nasal passages,
Just saying,
Herb


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

GO Harbor Freight!!!!
Herb


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> I'm going to give that Kobalt a look. I (somewhare) have an attachment to remove moisture from the compressed air. An air compressor water trap. I don't see one on the compressors shown, may have overlooked it, but I think it would probably help. Any input on that?


I have one of those on my out line (plastic instead of brass). It hasn't accumulated much, if any, moisture. But it should be installed if spray painting. They're only a few dollars.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

DesertRatTom said:


> I'm going to give that Kobalt a look. I (somewhare) have an attachment to remove moisture from the compressed air. An air compressor water trap. I don't see one on the compressors shown, may have overlooked it, but I think it would probably help. Any input on that?


Moisture driers are definitely worth it on a compressed air system. Even on our big systems at work which have refrigerated air dryers, we still put an inline filter/dryer before sensitive equipment.

The amount of water that you get in the humid summer months around here is impressive.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I finally got too old to pull my 20 gal around. I bought a Dewalt 60 gal for $399 on black Friday from Tractor Supply. I also bought a 75 foot 3/8 hose on an automatic reel which I will mount at the edge of my garage. I have the compressor running it is loud. It has a small leak at the tank drain. I am in the process of adding an Apollo ball valve on the bottom to drain the water. I added a 3/4 inch Apollo ball valve and a SMC used pressure regulator from eBay. It is sharing a circuit with my 220v shop vac.

If you are wondering Tractor Supply was out of stock and did not get them until the week after Christmas so I picked it up in January. It is still taking me a while to do this but the weather has been crappy.


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## Gary Wiant (Jun 7, 2017)

Black Friday is a great idea. We are planning on building an addition on our shop this summer and I really dont have room right now for the compressor especially now that I am trying to buy a jointer.

Thanks all
Gary


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## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

Stay away from the oil less compressors they are noisy also easy to burn up and take forever to charge I have a head from a 1984 craftsman 4hp 20gal 125psi unit. My son bought a 5hp 30gal 150psi oil-less unit that he rarely used and it lasted less than a year and it was cheaper to buy a new unit on sale than fix it. I reused his tank and 150psi regulator and mounted my head to it. Mine was 30+yrs+ old and figured the tank was on borrowed time. I use mine for working on cars as well as woodworking I've painted two cars and a full size van. Just keep a water separator and drier on the output and drain the tank a couple times a year especially during the summer. I keep mine in the attached garage and copper piped it into my basement shop as well as the opposite side of the house for my second driveway.


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

Gary Wiant said:


> I'm trying to build my shop tools as I can and I'm looking for a decent entry level vertical air compressor (around $300) all I use my current air compressor for is to blow off dust after sanding & my brad nailer but I'd like to eventually get some pneumatic tools. My current is a small harbor freight pancake compressor.
> 
> What should I look for?
> Capacity? (20 - 30 gallon or more)
> ...


Can't help you with your selection of Air compressors, I just wanted to mention that My 30 gal up right quit working and I set it out for trash. I had had it for over 20 years. I used to load it up and haul it to jobs, I even rebuilt this house we live in with it and lots of different projects. But since I am 76 and retired I don't use it to make money anymore so I am looking to buy a small either a tank or a pan cake. just for the work I do around the house. Just thought it was interesting how we go through cycles as we age.


David


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

buy a belt drive, they are quiet and last much longer!.


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## Gary Wiant (Jun 7, 2017)

I think the air compressor is on hold I found a used jointer & I need a jointer more than I need an air compressor


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Jointers are good. 

I turned 65 I am tired of getting my 20 gal out just for a small amount of air and then having to put it away. I bought a cheap Dewalt 60 gal supposedly USA made. In the future all I will have to do is pull the hose off the reel to have air. Plus I barely had enough CFM for spray painting with my 20 gal.


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## sonnywiehe (Mar 4, 2011)

*Kobalt*

I'd recommend the Kobalt 60 gallon model #VT6362 at Lowes if they still carry it. Trouble free for 5 years with it pressurized full time. Delivers 11.5 CFM @ 90 psi. Recommend an auto drain mechanism attached to the drain to avoid moisture build up in the tank and use SAU 3020 series air filter/regulator from Pneumatic Plus. All three components (new) might set you back a grand today. I don't see $300 providing reliable, clean air pressure at the ready for a reasonably small shop.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Gary Wiant said:


> ....... I need a jointer more than I need an air compressor



Agreed.......:smile:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well this may be the best bang for the buck in my case . Tempted to get it while it’s on sale . Although I’d really prefer a dual stage , the price is double .
If anyone has this exact model, please give a review 
https://www.rona.ca/en/campbell-hausfeld-vertical-compressor-80-gal-5-hp-xc802100-73455239

To make matters worse, I purchased a CH from Canadian Tire years back for $850 . It had four cylinders,and [email protected] psi , and I got it at cost as the manager wanted it out of the warehouse.
I brought it back after I realized I didn’t have sufficient power in my shop. Of course now it’s upgraded and I should have kept it stored . 
The substitute piece of garbage that I bought from CT had 5.5 cfm for $400 ,and was literally no better than a pancake compressor. 
Still kicking myself hard on this one


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok just found out not all Rona stores can give the sale price , especially not ours. So I guess it’s Princess Auto in Lethbridge.
My parents have passed , but a I know a guy who lives in Lethbridge that I consider my second dad, so I’ll drive down on Father’s Day and pick it up while I’m there.
I did want a dual stage anyways 

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/80-gallon-2-stage-cast-iron-air-compressor/A-p8580847e


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Well this may be the best bang for the buck in my case . Tempted to get it while it’s on sale . Although I’d really prefer a dual stage , the price is double .
> If anyone has this exact model, please give a review
> https://www.rona.ca/en/campbell-hausfeld-vertical-compressor-80-gal-5-hp-xc802100-73455239
> 
> ...


I have a 5.7 CFM 20 gal and it was just barely enough. I have to run a small spray gun as you need 10 CFM for a full size spray gun. I went back and forth whether to buy a dual stage compressor or not. I owned a dual stage in the past and it was nice. It was too big size wise 80 gal for my place which I moved into 15 years ago. I need a vertical one so the 60 gal seems to fit. The only difference I have noticed is the bigger single stage units seem to be loud or at least the one I bought is but I have plenty of air now.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

coxhaus said:


> I have a 5.7 CFM 20 gal and it was just barely enough. I have to run a small spray gun as you need 10 CFM for a full size spray gun. I went back and forth whether to buy a dual stage compressor or not. I owned a dual stage in the past and it was nice. It was too big size wise 80 gal for my place which I moved into 15 years ago. I need a vertical one so the 60 gal seems to fit. The only difference I have noticed is the bigger single stage units seem to be loud or at least the one I bought is but I have plenty of air now.


Yes I found 5.5cfm was an absolute waste of money . It couldn't run any of my tools for more than a few seconds,then you’d have to wait another 5 minutes for it to recharge . I can’t believe it wouldn’t even run an air drill . 
I don’t want to put myself on that position again.
Best case scenario would be to have the compressor mounted in my tool shed , that way there would be no noise , but I’m not happy with my current tool shed ,and don’t want to rebuild it, so the compressor goes in the shop


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

My air compressor and shop VAC are out in the shed connected to my shop so the noise is not too bad. I guess the noise could be they spin the new compressors faster now days than in the past probably to push the CFM higher and you end up with a louder air compressor. I think I am going to be happy just having more air, CFM once I get the line run to the edge of my garage. I just finished the drain with an Apollo ball valve. I am letting it dry. I used pipe dope on it. Hopefully no more leaks. It was a slow leak as it took a few days to leak down. I want to get where when I turn off the main ball valve that the tank will stay full for a few weeks.

PS
Good luck Rick in finding an air compressor. I hope it works out. I think whether it is dual stage or not you will be happy as long as you have enough air. For me anything over 10 CFM is good.


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

> I assumed that it would be quieter with air power but if not I'll just stay with my corded orbital sander


Pneumatic sanders are a LOT louder than electric sanders. And as mentioned, use a lot of air. A cheap compressor to run air tools will generally cost about $800-$1000. A decent one is $2K.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

ger21 said:


> Pneumatic sanders are a LOT louder than electric sanders. And as mentioned, use a lot of air. A cheap compressor to run air tools will generally cost about $800-$1000. A decent one is $2K.


I’m not concerned with the noise of the tool so much , but the compressor itself is quite annoying . 
As you mentioned, a decent compressor is going to run a 2K .
Anything less than [email protected] and you may as well buy a pancake compressor,as all your going to be able to do efficiently is use it for is air nailers anyways .
I had one with a 5.5 cfm output , which ended up being useless. 
I’d prefer to get 7.5hp 24cfm @90psi dual stage and be done with it, but that’s a big chunk of change in Canada . 

I have a lot of air tools, and prefer them in some circumstances. I like how they stop almost immediately when you let off the trigger .
I know a guy who was under his TransAm with an electric disc grinder . It jerked out of his hands and cut his forearm to the bone before it stopped.
I’m sure he would have been fine if he was using an air grinder .


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> I not familiar with Sanborn, but I suspect their all uses simular cylinders and tanks.
> This is [email protected] for a hundred bucks more , so I may jump on this one instead .
> Youtube review was good.
> In b4 Dan says to insulate first lol
> ...



That compressor looks just like my Dewalt. The motor, regulator, and compressor looks the same as mine. I even have the same sight glass for checking the oil. 

Oh, the difference is the tank, as my tank is 60 gal with a 3/4 inch outlet on the side.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

coxhaus said:


> That compressor looks just like my Dewalt. The motor, regulator, and compressor looks the same as mine. I even have the same sight glass for checking the oil.
> 
> Oh, the difference is the tank, as my tank is 60 gal with a 3/4 inch outlet on the side.


I suspect most companies get pumps and tanks from the same manufacturer,and assemble them and put their name on . Could be wrong.

I’m reading forums about noise,and people are claiming 2 stage are quieter than single stage , whereas the rep from Ingersoll claims the single stage is quieter ? 
I guess if the 2 stage recharges quicker causing it to cycle less, that would be noise less often . 


1:45


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

> I know a guy who was under his TransAm with an electric disc grinder . It jerked out of his hands and cut his forearm to the bone before it stopped.
> I’m sure he would have been fine if he was using an air grinder .


I've had plenty of instances with accidentally hitting the trigger on air tools, but it's usually with tool that have "paddle" type triggers.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Well the 2 stage compressor I had was quieter than this Dewalt single stage air compressor. My old 2 stage ran at 1750 rpm whereas my single stage runs at 3400 which is louder. The 2 stage air comes off at 175 PSI. I never found I needed that high of pressure. If I can get over a 100 PSI I am good. Everything I did on my 2 stage always was just over a hundred. My old 2 stage never could maintain 175 PSI. The pressure dropped immediately after using the air. But I had an old American made Kellogg air compressor which was old tech as it was built in the 50s.

It was a great old compressor but it would not fit in my shed at my house. It was too big. I gave it to a friend. He is still using it. I had it for over 20 years. I am not sure they are made as well today but we live with what we can get now.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

coxhaus said:


> Well the 2 stage compressor I had was quieter than this Dewalt single stage air compressor. My old 2 stage ran at 1750 rpm whereas my single stage runs at 3400 which is louder. The 2 stage air comes off at 175 PSI. I never found I needed that high of pressure. If I can get over a 100 PSI I am good. Everything I did on my 2 stage always was just over a hundred. My old 2 stage never could maintain 175 PSI. The pressure dropped immediately after using the air. But I had an old American made Kellogg air compressor which was old tech as it was built in the 50s.
> 
> It was a great old compressor but it would not fit in my shed at my house. It was too big. I gave it to a friend. He is still using it. I had it for over 20 years. I am not sure they are made as well today but we live with what we can get now.


The one I should have kept back in the day ran just over 800 rpm. Bet it was fairly quiet too . 
I’m still kicking myself.
I’m going to take your advice and buy a 2 stage ,as it’s the only way I’m going to feel better about this


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I looked up the specs for my air compressor. Noise level is Decibel Rating: 80 dBA. It is not rated at what distance. The pump rpm is 2000. This seems loud to me but it may be inline with what is sold today.

PS
I am going to try some antivibration pads to see if it will cut down on noise.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

coxhaus said:


> I looked up the specs for my air compressor. Noise level is Decibel Rating: 80 dBA. It is not rated at what distance. The pump rpm is 2000. This seems loud to me but it may be inline with what is sold today.
> 
> PS
> I am going to try some antivibration pads to see if it will cut down on noise.


I’ve been reading it’s a lot to do with the intakes , and some have found a way to reduce it with different designed filters /housings etc

Best case scenario would be to have it in my tool shed . I’m not happy with how I designed my tool shed , and wanted to replace it . But because unemployments on the horizon, I don’t want to spend 3 grand on another , or I would put the compressor in there and run an underground trench for the power and air


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## Larry42 (Aug 11, 2014)

Since most air tools work at 90psi or less the primary advantage to a 2 stage would be storing more air in a given tank size. More energy will be required to take the pressure higher that energy will be wasted as heat. Compressing air creates a lot of heat. You need to dissipate that some how. The little cooling fins on a typical small compressor are not enough to lower the temperature much so you are filling the tank with quite hot air. As the air in the tank cools it contracts leaving you with less useable air & causing the compressor to start again. The warmer the air is the more moisture it can hold. Wet air is hard on almost all air tools and is especially bad for spray guns & paint. So as the air in your system cools it will reach the point where the moisture will condense. Moisture traps will catch some of it but as the tool or spray gun uses the air, the drop in pressure causes rapid cooling resulting in more condensation. 
The only real solution is to use a refrigerated or desiccant air drier. 

In many ways oil does much the same thing. So you need a filter down stream of the drier to take out the oil. Nothing worse than oil in you painted surface. 

Tank size: A big tank doesn't create any compressed air but it does store more. That means it will take longer for a big tank to reach a useable pressure but the pump will have to cycles fewer times but run for longer each time it cycles. Each time a motor starts it draws a spike in power that has to be dissipated as heat. So fewer starts is better. A piston compressor generally isn't able to dissipate heat fast enough and so will get very hot if run continuously. That heat tends to break down the lubricating oil resulting in deposits that will shorten the life of the compressor. Synthetic lubes will hold up better. 

Horse power: There are a lot of "cheater" 5HP compressors sold. Motors that don't actually put out 5HP. You can easily tell by the watts or amps the motor is rated for. 745.7 watts = 1 hp but you need to deduct for the efficiency of the motor. To meet NEMA standards the motor must convert at least 84% of its energy into shaft power. So it takes 887 watts to make 1 hp at the shaft. 4434 watts input for 5HP. If you have 115V that means 38 amps. 230V means 19amps. The motor will draw more than twice the running amps at startup. How's your wiring?


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

an 800 rpm belt drive compressor is the way to go. the direct drive compressors are just a cheap way to compress air, with compromises..


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I just put antivibration pads under my air compressor. It is not as loud as it was. The metal on the brick was causing some kind of ringing added to the noise. My brick in that spot is not very level so I have 2 wood boards to level with the antivibration pads on top between the air compressor and the board. I have a ratchet strap around a 4x4 post and attached to the air compressor at the top where the hold down straps go. It is not tight just taught enough to catch the air compressor incase of a problem. If I tighten the ratchet strap to much it lifts the far leg. So just tight enough to keep all 3 legs down. I am impressed with the antivibration pads as they seem to really work. The high pitched sounds are gone and it is more of a lower pitched sound of the air compressor spinning at 2000 rpm. It really is better.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

coxhaus said:


> I just put antivibration pads under my air compressor. It is not as loud as it was. The metal on the brick was causing some kind of ringing added to the noise. My brick in that spot is not very level so I have 2 wood boards to level with the antivibration pads on top between the air compressor and the board. I have a ratchet strap around a 4x4 post and attached to the air compressor at the top where the hold down straps go. It is not tight just taught enough to catch the air compressor incase of a problem. If I tighten the ratchet strap to much it lifts the far leg. So just tight enough to keep all 3 legs down. I am impressed with the antivibration pads as they seem to really work. The high pitched sounds are gone and it is more of a lower pitched sound of the air compressor spinning at 2000 rpm. It really is better.


Great idea . What do anti vibration pads look like and where do you buy? I have some 1/2” rubber.


I’ve been watching KMS tools, and this compressor just came up for sale . Not dual stage , but should be sufficient ,as it’s the same output 
https://m.kmstools.com/campbell-hausfeld-5-hp-80-gallon-air-compressor-118203


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I ordered the antivibration pads from Amazon. I bought 4 inch and they are about $12 to $15 for four. I will try to look up the part number and post it here.

My 20 gal is a Campbell-Haus unit. I have had it for over 15 years without any problems. The one you are looking at looks like it has a better air intake design which may help with noise also. It seems to put out plenty of air for a home system.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

coxhaus said:


> I ordered the antivibration pads from Amazon. I bought 4 inch and they are about $12 to $15 for four. I will try to look up the part number and post it here.
> 
> My 20 gal is a Campbell-Haus unit. I have had it for over 15 years without any problems. The one you are looking at looks like it has a better air intake design which may help with noise also. It seems to put out plenty of air for a home system.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BVEMLR4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


Thanks Leo, I will definitely buy these. I want to minimize noise as much as possibly.

Found them on amazon.ca. Only four times as much lol 
https://www.amazon.ca/Diversitech-M...+Pad&qid=1556580608&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull


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