# My Latest Wooden Plane



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Well this is the latest wooden plane mock-up. It is made from Black Walnut and has Maple racing stripe.
The blade is an 1 3/8" wide Stanley block plane blade. It is a bevel down, with a 55° bed angle.

Herb


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

wow its a beauty herb great job


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

Like Tim said,"it's a beauty Herb,great job" & I would really like to have one.Thanks for showing us. James.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Holy moley, that looks like a million dollar sports car! Beautiful Herb.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

you are a class act all of your own Herb...
*KUDOS!!!*


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Here is the Utube Video I used to copy the build.





Herb


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

It won't be long and you'll be stuck with the finest collection of beautiful hand-made planes. I can see a collection prominently displayed in your study...you sitting in a chair with your pipe gazing out the window and conjuring up the next masterpiece...

Love the blonde stripes...

How much better can it get...? !


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## woodworker47 (Dec 19, 2008)

Herb,

This is a thing of beauty.

Frank


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

So when does the storefront open? Talk about plane envy....I'm not sure I could use these as they are simply too gorgeous to think about cutting into raw wood. I suspect a better use is a huge artisan display case highlighting the beauty, design, and engineering. OK where's my towel, I'm drowning in drool.....


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Herb, How does it feel in your hands when using it?


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## Danman1957 (Mar 14, 2009)

Beautiful Herb. That tool is too nice to use !

Did anyone see the series of videos included on the making of the Damascus blade for the plane, WOW !!!


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

Too clever. N


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Herb, How does it feel in your hands when using it?


That is a good question, It feels awful in my big hands. This is a mock up, so I am working on a larger model to improve the grip on it, also lowering the bed angle from 55° down to 45°.
I should have that one ready by next week.

Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

What everyone else said, in spades!
I too was wondering about the ergonomic aspect(?).
It's almost like handcrafting a rifle stock to suit a specific person. If you were custom crafting one for yourself, or someone else, you could go to the extreme and make it specifically right or left handed?
Maybe do a mock up with modeling clay to get the grip the way it feels perfect? Not that it needs any improvement!!!


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Looks good Herb. I'd keep it around because you might find it is the perfect tool to use for a project some day. Even if you don't use it it will look good just sitting there.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Good work, Herb. It wouldn't be as sporty without the stripe.


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Herb, On your next prototype...you may want to make sure that the wood grain is either parallel to the sole, or slopes downward toward the rear. This will prevent chip out on the sole when using it. It is also important on a wooden plane to have it tensioned with the wedge and blade retracted when flattening the sole. I love the look of your Damascus plane, and I love your trademark...is it burned with an iron or an ink imprint?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Thanks for the tips, I have not tensioned any of my planes, never even thought of it. I flatten the sole on the jointer so will have to make sure the blade is tight and doesn't vibrate loose, might bevel the iron the wrong way.
The bug is a stamp, that I finish over.
Herb


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Herb, Do the final flattening with sandpaper on the bed of your jointer, with the iron retracted and the wedge tight.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

I watched that video quite some time ago and my first thoughts were; what a beautiful design and secondly, that thing has got to be uncomfortable (of course, always relative to the user of course). Great spin on the design, especially the strip. And the stamp is akin to a makers mark. Sweet!! 
I do believe that dropping that bedded angle down to 45* will make a BIG difference in actual use, feel and performance. Tensioning is a big deal on low profile style plane, particularly Japanese style plans. Typically the shorter the body and the higher the wedge pin, the less likely tension will be a factor. But, but, but... for all the time it takes, certainly doesn't hurt to give it a look, if not for just peace of mind. 

Can't wait to see V2.0....

that and a companion plane hammer 



Herb Stoops said:


> That is a good question, It feels awful in my big hands. This is a mock up, so I am working on a larger model to improve the grip on it, also lowering the bed angle from 55° down to 45°.
> I should have that one ready by next week.
> 
> Herb


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

I"m constantly reminded that I ain't as clever as I sometimes think I am 

This is an EXCELLENT idea!!! Applicable to numerous handle type projects. 




DaninVan said:


> Maybe do a mock up with modeling clay to get the grip the way it feels perfect? Not that it needs any improvement!!!


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

It looks like the Damascus Plane would be comfortable to use pulling it (as in Japanese plane). At 55 degrees bed angle, it will work better on harder figured wood.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Where's the power cord?? You hid it nicely!!


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

gmercer_48083 said:


> It looks like the Damascus Plane would be comfortable to use pulling it (as in Japanese plane). At 55 degrees bed angle, it will work better on harder figured wood.


 @gmercer48083 and [MENTION=23054]TwoSkies57 Thanks for all the tips, I am learning a lot from guys like you about wooden planes.
Herb


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

I have made quite a few hand planes. One of my favorite planes uses a bi-metal Sawzall blade for the iron. The easiest planes to make in my opinion are the side escapement planes. I use Starrett brand 01 tool steel 1/8" thick for the irons. Then heat treat them with a Bernzomatic propane torch. I use a jig to cut the wedges @ 10 degrees on my table saw reliably.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

gmercer_48083 said:


> I have made quite a few hand planes. One of my favorite planes uses a bi-metal Sawzall blade for the iron. The easiest planes to make in my opinion are the side escapement planes. I use Starrett brand 01 tool steel 1/8" thick for the irons. Then heat treat them with a Bernzomatic propane torch. I use a jig to cut the wedges @ 10 degrees on my table saw reliably.


this one plane I am fooling around with ,I made the blade 1 1/4" w out of a 10" TS blade. The blade is 3/16" thick. Do I need to heat treat the blade? 
Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> this one plane I am fooling around with ,I made the blade 1 1/4" w out of a 10" TS blade. The blade is 3/16" thick. Do I need to heat treat the blade?
> Herb


yes...


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Herb, I am not familiar with what type of steel is used in TS blades. And at 3/16" thick it may take more heat than a Bernzomatic propane torch produces to get it to a dull cherry red hot. I use O-1 (oil hardening) tool steel. I did use an old lawnmower blade once, and it was 3/16". To get it hot enough required 2 Bernzomatic propane torches. I quench at dull cherry red into canola oil in a can...after cooling, I anneal it in our kitchen oven set at 400 degrees for about 45 minutes (to a dark straw color).

You want to grind the shape of the blade to the finished shape before you harden the iron, and can be done with a file when needed. Once you have hardened it with the torch, you then polish it using sandpaper to remove the excess carbon and make it shiny (reflective). Being reflective...when you put it in the oven you will be able to see the color change. Remove it from the oven when it reaches a dark straw color and let it cool to room temperature. After that you can sharpen the iron to it's keen edge.


Using this method will not work with mild steels. There is no carbon in the steel and it must be added to make the steel tougher. A blacksmith uses coal to add the carbon during the heating process to add the carbon necessary, and that is what makes the steel tough. Of coarse this is just a basic overview.


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## marecat3 (Nov 30, 2010)

that is very pretty


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Aren't automotive leaf springs the normal source of raw material for DIY cutting tools?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

gmercer_48083 said:


> Herb, I am not familiar with what type of steel is used in TS blades. And at 3/16" thick it may take more heat than a Bernzomatic propane torch produces to get it to a dull cherry red hot. I use O-1 (oil hardening) tool steel. I did use an old lawnmower blade once, and it was 3/16". To get it hot enough required 2 Bernzomatic propane torches. I quench at dull cherry red into canola oil in a can...after cooling, I anneal it in our kitchen oven set at 400 degrees for about 45 minutes (to a dark straw color).
> 
> You want to grind the shape of the blade to the finished shape before you harden the iron, and can be done with a file when needed. Once you have hardened it with the torch, you then polish it using sandpaper to remove the excess carbon and make it shiny (reflective). Being reflective...when you put it in the oven you will be able to see the color change. Remove it from the oven when it reaches a dark straw color and let it cool to room temperature. After that you can sharpen the iron to it's keen edge.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the exclamation. The last time I heat treated a piece was when I tried to use an Old Dewalt planer blade to make a spoke shave. I had cut it with a cutoff wheel and when I went to drill the holes I had to anneal it . I used the Mep Gas and 02 torch I had to heat it for annealing and again to reharden it. I think the planer blade was M3 tool steel,what ever that is. Not sure what steel is in TS blades.
Herb


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Aren't automotive leaf springs the normal source of raw material for DIY cutting tools?


A 2" or larger truck leaf would make a great Fro for splitting (riving) logs. I wish I had one.


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## OldCurmudgeon (Feb 25, 2012)

Amazing work, Herb, like all your other creations. 

I only wish I knew how to use one... I'm a power tools guy - need a cord or a battery to operate...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

My neighbor popped over this afternoon; he wanted me to joint a Yellow Cedar shelf edge for him. I asked why he didn't just use a bench plane?
He was rather embarrassed..._said it never occurred to him_. 
I planed the edges for him and as a bonus ran it through the planer (thicknesser) to surface it as well.
(Bonus,bonus! I get the lovely Y. Cedar aroma from the shavings in my shop...  )


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> My neighbor popped over this afternoon; he wanted me to joint a Yellow Cedar shelf edge for him. I asked why he didn't just use a bench plane?
> He was rather embarrassed..._said it never occurred to him_.
> I planed the edges for him and as a bonus ran it through the planer (thicknesser) to surface it as well.
> (Bonus,bonus! I get the lovely Y. Cedar aroma from the shavings in my shop...  )


I love the smell of just about any cedar. Western red ,Yellow, And Tennessee (Aromatic ) Red Cedar.

Stand Bye, I have got some more planes coming up in a couple of days.

Herb


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