# Bandsaw variable speed vs 1 speed



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I have started to research Bandsaws (BS) and have it narrowed down to the 16" 1 speed by Craftex Busy Bee Tools Product Detail and the 18" Craftex Busy Bee Tools Product Detail.

Can anyone please tell me the advantage of having a variable speed on the BS? IS this a big deal because I sure could save a few dollars by having the 16" CT082 model.

Thanks


----------



## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Hey Dan I was going to write something cute but---if you can go for the gold get the very best you can afford and you won't regret it later. I am really looking forward to seeing your shop when you are done and just getting ready to start your first project in it. Happy building, happy buying,


----------



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Dan,
Variable speed is almost a necessity on a band saw as far as I'm concerned. You need different speeds for different woods and size of blades as well as in re-sawing. As you use the band saw you will come to understand why variable speeds are necessary, trust me. I think you will be disappointed in the future with a single speed. It's cheaper in the long run to buy the best you can afford in the first place.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> I have started to research Bandsaws (BS) and have it narrowed down to the 16" 1 speed by Craftex Busy Bee Tools Product Detail and the 18" Craftex Busy Bee Tools Product Detail.
> 
> Can anyone please tell me the advantage of having a variable speed on the BS? IS this a big deal because I sure could save a few dollars by having the 16" CT082 model.
> 
> Thanks


I'm curious too, Dan. I just put a riser on my 14" Delta and am still tuning it but am curious.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I have never, nor seen a need, to change the speed of my bandsaw.
My 14" Delta with riser is set for fast, and stays there.
The only tool that I change speed on is the drill press.


----------



## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

I know variable speed is important in cutting steel/metal but I didn't think it was that important on wood, I know my Band saw has two speeds but I can't comment on if I change speeds or not since it is still in the box, and I haven't had a chance to set it up yet.


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Dan,

I would think a single speed will work just fine if all you are going to cut is wood. The optional speed is mainly for switch over to metal cutting. I am not one for trying to cut both on the same saw.


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

curiousgeorge said:


> Dan,
> Variable speed is almost a necessity on a band saw as far as I'm concerned. You need different speeds for different woods and size of blades as well as in re-sawing. As you use the band saw you will come to understand why variable speeds are necessary, trust me. I think you will be disappointed in the future with a single speed. It's cheaper in the long run to buy the best you can afford in the first place.


I understand with a router you need to control the speed while using different size bits on wood and how hard the wood is but not so sure when cutting wood on a BS.

When you buy different blades do they recommend what speed to run them at depending on the species of wood?

Thanks for the replies to date I really appreciate the input and comments.


----------



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

TRN_Diesel said:


> I understand with a router you need to control the speed while using different size bits on wood and how hard the wood is but not so sure when cutting wood on a BS.
> 
> When you buy different blades do they recommend what speed to run them at depending on the species of wood?
> 
> Thanks for the replies to date I really appreciate the input and comments.


Dan,
The different speeds have to do with the type of blade (tooth rake, blade size, etc.) and density of wood you are using and the ability of the blade to clear the saw dust from the cut. If the blade can't clear the cut it will either bog down, not cut straight, not cut well, overheat and break or all of the above. For instance; if you notice the blade is having a hard time cutting while re-sawing, you may try a different speed and it will improve the cut or stop the blade from wandering. There is a reason for variable speed on a band saw for cutting wood and not just cutting metal. I have yet to see a "speed chart" for the band saw. It is more of what works best for you at that particular situation at that particular time. You just have to experiment and find out what works best and when. Pretty much the same as with a router.

Here is a podcast you may want to look at ...
Podcast #22: Buying & Getting the Most Out of Your Band Saw — Woodworking Online

As in all power tools, there is more to it than just putting it together and turning it on.


----------



## Mike Gager (Jan 14, 2009)

i cant imagine the need for different speeds but i dont have that much experience using one

does the variable speed slow things down real low? i know cutting metal you want slow speeds so maybe really dense wood would need slow speeds as well?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

It looks like you are a very handy guy, why not buy a tool that will do more than one type job,for the price difference you would money a head of the game of tools..my Bud had one and it would cut anything he want to cut with it..every time I picked up a hack saw/cut off tool I would recall his band saw and wish I had one.. 

Two tools on one foot print in the shop  it's true you will not use the band saw for other types of jobs but the 1st. time you want too you will have the right tool to do it right..and the one you are are looking at, it's easy to pop in a blade..

=======


----------



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Mike Gager said:


> i cant imagine the need for different speeds but i dont have that much experience using one
> 
> does the variable speed slow things down real low? i know cutting metal you want slow speeds so maybe really dense wood would need slow speeds as well?


?????? Didn't you read any of the previous posts?????


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

curiousgeorge said:


> Dan,
> The different speeds have to do with the type of blade (tooth rake, blade size, etc.) and density of wood you are using and the ability of the blade to clear the saw dust from the cut. If the blade can't clear the cut it will either bog down, not cut straight, not cut well, overheat and break or all of the above. For instance; if you notice the blade is having a hard time cutting while re-sawing, you may try a different speed and it will improve the cut or stop the blade from wandering. There is a reason for variable speed on a band saw for cutting wood and not just cutting metal. I have yet to see a "speed chart" for the band saw. It is more of what works best for you at that particular situation at that particular time. You just have to experiment and find out what works best and when. Pretty much the same as with a router.
> 
> Here is a podcast you may want to look at ...
> ...


Thanks George for the tips and sharing your knowledge with me. Makes sense what you are saying so I will definitely go with the variable speed. Its a shame the 16" does not have variable speed and only the 18" and a 14".


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

curiousgeorge said:


> Dan,
> The different speeds have to do with the type of blade (tooth rake, blade size, etc.) and density of wood you are using and the ability of the blade to clear the saw dust from the cut. If the blade can't clear the cut it will either bog down, not cut straight, not cut well, overheat and break or all of the above. For instance; if you notice the blade is having a hard time cutting while re-sawing, you may try a different speed and it will improve the cut or stop the blade from wandering. There is a reason for variable speed on a band saw for cutting wood and not just cutting metal. I have yet to see a "speed chart" for the band saw. It is more of what works best for you at that particular situation at that particular time. You just have to experiment and find out what works best and when. Pretty much the same as with a router.
> 
> Here is a podcast you may want to look at ...
> ...


Excellent link thanks so much this helps me a great deal.


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Dan
> 
> It looks like you are a very handy guy, why not buy a tool that will do more than one type job,for the price difference you would money a head of the game of tools..my Bud had one and it would cut anything he want to cut with it..every time I picked up a hack saw/cut off tool I would recall his band saw and wish I had one..
> 
> ...


Ya I hear ya I always said you can never go wrong buying a good tool and heck I am too poor to buy cheap.


----------



## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

This is from the R&D Bandsaw Blades Site



> To calculate blade speed: Motor RPM x Pulley Upper Wheel Pulley x Wheel Diameter x 3.1416 12 = LFPM or mark wheel and turn motor one revolution, measure distance from mark and multiply by motor RPM.


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

TRN_Diesel said:


> I have started to research Bandsaws (BS) and have it narrowed down to the 16" 1 speed by Craftex Busy Bee Tools Product Detail and the 18" Craftex Busy Bee Tools Product Detail.
> 
> Can anyone please tell me the advantage of having a variable speed on the BS? IS this a big deal because I sure could save a few dollars by having the 16" CT082 model.
> 
> Thanks


Hi Dan:

Take a look at CT015N. It is the 15" version. Here's the trick. The distance between the blade guide and the table. The 15" does not have the riser. So, that means that the tallest plank you can saw is 5 1/2" give or take a bit. I have the identical saw but I have a 6" riser installed and an old style blade guide so I get a bit more than 11" resawing.

Your 16" is pretty short at 8 1/2" and the 18" is a lot of money for a <=12" resaw capability. Time to go back to the drawing board and reexamine your requirements. This time, write them down and if necessary write the other tools to perform the same job beside the requirement.

The only real job that you can't do with other equipment is to resaw thick boards into thin ones. Everything else you can do with equipment you've already got.

Do the used tool vendors, Kijiji, and other used equipment environs. A lot of the farmers out west will have full shops and when they retire, the shops are usually retired with them.

Hope this helps


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Dan:
> 
> Take a look at CT015N. It is the 15" version. Here's the trick. The distance between the blade guide and the table. The 15" does not have the riser. So, that means that the tallest plank you can saw is 5 1/2" give or take a bit. I have the identical saw but I have a 6" riser installed and an old style blade guide so I get a bit more than 11" resawing.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the advice and by the way I ask the salesman I wanted a bandsaw with 3 speeds. He told me it was not necessary for woodworking and it turns out he owns the company (Cole Moore ). I guess it s a matter of opinion and he was really pushing hard for the Helical Heads on the jointer's at a cost of $600 plus.

I think 12" resaw is as much as I will need and would prefer a machine that is setup for 220. The one saw I looked at that I liked was 110 volt but draws 15 amps so I am worried it will pop the breaker where it will be used and hence the reason I want to run it on 220 and only draw 7.5 amps.

I had planned on using the tablesaw or the jointer or BS on the one dedicated CIRCUIT AND NOW HAVE TWO EXTENSION CORDS TO BE USED FOR THE 220. The one is setup for the tablesaw and the other will be for the jointer or BS.


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Canadian Woodworker Ltd

Here is the saw I like with 12" resaw with the optional riser kit.


----------



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Good looking saw. It amazes me how long it took for some band saw makers to finally start to realize that the band saw is a wood working tool as well as metal and start to make allowances for it. The guy who told you that more speeds were not needed for wood is just not up on using the saw as a wood working tool. He is still living in the metal world. With him being a company owner, he needs to do a little updating on his knowledge. I do agree with him, though, on the helical heads. They make a good tool into an outstanding tool and they stay sharp way longer than the HSS blades.


----------



## labric (Sep 11, 2004)

Dan & Ron

I have the Busy Bee CT015N and it certainly does come with a riser extension which will add 4" to the original height of 6 " giving you a 10" cutting height.

See CT015EXT accessories 

Has a 1 HP motor with 3 speeds which with a bimetal blade would also cut light guage metal without any problem and is currently on sale.

More than enough for my needs.

Specs below:



> A wonderful Band Saw package. Ideal for cutting wood or plastic.
> Three speeds gives great versatility and a cast iron frame ensures rigidity and
> long service.
> 
> ...



 Ric


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Ric that is great to know. How many amps does it draw on 110 volt? Do oyu run yours on a 15 amp breaker without popping the breaker?

Do you resaw hard maple with it and have no problem?

What do you use yours for mostly? 

How much does the extension kit cost?


----------



## labric (Sep 11, 2004)

Hey Dan

I'm currently travelling on holidays in Quebec at the moment so I will have to respond from memory.

I haven't got my wiring finished in the basement as yet and besides a 220 outlet that I have for my table saw (also Busy Bee) I only have one 15 amp circuit for all my needs except some lighting. 

I ran both the bandsaw and a 1 HP dust collector off that same circuit and did not have a problem. Check with Busy Bee on the amps but I think it is only 7 amps as it is only a 1 Hp motor.

I haven't got the extension kit as yet as I haven't had the need but is on my shopping list. Currently on sale for $49.99 and includes the longer blade.

Busy Bee Tools Product Detail


I have ripped 2" thick maple for trim but nothing thicker as of yet and have not had a problem. Normally only ripping hardwood stock to thinner thicknesses and rought cutting curved pieces. I don't see myself cutting 12" wide x 2" thickness material to a smaller thickness.

I am still in the process of setting up my shop in the basement as I have given up on the garage as being too overcrowded ( I'm a packrat) and the cost of heating the 3 car garage for a few hours of work when its -40 C below outside.

My plan is to run 20 amp circuits for all power tools so I shouldn't have any electrical concerns.

Sorry, I can't be more help at this time.

 Ric


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Canadian Woodworker Ltd
> 
> Here is the saw I like with 12" resaw with the optional riser kit.


Hi Dan:

OK, you're not going to like me. 

General 90-125 at CW $899
Craftex CT015N. at BB $599
Delta 14" 28206 at BB $949
Delta 14" 28206MF at Tegs $779
General GI90-150M1 at Tegs $1,309.00
King KC-1401HD at Tegs $469.00
King KC-1433FXR at Tegs $749.00

Steel City 50130 is the nicest rendition that I've found of this saw. Although the covers are different, it is identical to all of the others and should be price competitive to the Delta. Look at the Steel City before you buy any other. This will be the top end of what is available and you can decide if the cost is worth the extras. You might be surprised. Shop around, you might find them less expensive than either of the Deltas. I absolutely love the rack and pinion guide positioner.

The basic saw is identical in all of them, including the Steel City. The only difference is the options. However, the motor is wire selectable so should not be a decision point. Just to be sure, there will be 120/240V on the nameplate of the motor. Have your electrician change it over if it is needed.

Tegs Tools is a tool vendor in Hamilton, Ontario. Frustrating as hell to work with but they know their stuff and won't knowingly lead you astray. They lost my business when Ridgid came out with their lifetime guarantee. Too bad but I can't afford to fund their retirement on my pension.

The General riser will fit the Craftex. However, note that my riser is 6", not 4". It looks like there can be several risers available. I was unaware of this. BusyBee should have the 6" riser available as well as the 4". When you take a look at the General, the knobs should have an elephant on them. I have seen them before. I think BusyBee has opted to pay for their own logo on the knobs now. This is Elephant brand tools from YUNG LI HSING . You contract Yung Li Hsing to make you "x" saws with "y" specifications for "z" price point and they supply you, FOB Taiwan. The same company makes all the saws mentioned above.

Now, the Cratex 15" should be bolt identical to the 14" General. _Maybe_ the wheels may be different but everything else, including the motors will be identical. fWho knows what 15" means any more. There is certainly enough room in the housing to put in 16" wheels if needed.

Note, Yung Li Hsing's motors are all able to be wired 120/240 by changing the motor wiring a bit. I had to do some fishing but I found the information on mine. However, my motor is >30 years old. 

I did, as a matter of maintenance, change all of the bearings on mine. All of them were available at my local bearing shop. I think, if I remember correctly, the entire set was something like $30 for the 6 bearings.

King can be found almost anywhere but shop around. King is the bargain basement stuff so even Tegs' prices could be high. I've found it in Hardware stores and Coop stores.


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

labric said:


> Hey Dan
> 
> I'm currently travelling on holidays in Quebec at the moment so I will have to respond from memory.


Hey Ric:

Where in Quebec are you?


----------



## labric (Sep 11, 2004)

Bonjour Ron

Yep still in Quebec, in the never ceasing rain!!:sad:

Where abouts are you??

Currently in Quebec City, (Ste Foy area) Planning to head in the direction of no rain we hope, today.

May head south to the states as the plan is to visit NH, Maine & Vermont as well as Ottawa and Montreal. Will be back to QC Oct 8th or 9th, heading home on the 10th.

Not much fun touring in the rain but we did manage a day of sightseeing along the St Laurent, and east of QC. 

As a Westerner, I am very envious of all the hardwood (Maple) trees and if I had access to that kind of wood, I would certainly see the need for a 12" riser on the bandsaw. We only have access to mostly softwood, Spruce and Jack Pine and some limited hardwoods in Birch and alot of scrub Poplar trees which is of limited use in the workshop. Most good hardwood has to be purchased or imported from the east.

Well I got to find my galoshes as it looks like its going to rain all day. again.:cray:

 Ric


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

labric said:


> Bonjour Ron
> 
> Yep still in Quebec, in the never ceasing rain!!:sad:
> 
> ...


I'm about 45 minutes from you.



labric said:


> May head south to the states as the plan is to visit NH, Maine & Vermont as well as Ottawa and Montreal. Will be back to QC Oct 8th or 9th, heading home on the 10th.


Boy, that's one heck of an itinerary. That's like visiting all four corners of Alberta in the same time frame. NewHampshire is not that big but Maine is quite large and sparsely populated and Vermont is similar to Maine. Then, you want to go to Ottawa which in itself is a city full of museums and Montreal is another adventure altogether. In Ottawa you've got to see the Museum of Man, War Museum, Art Gallery and the Air Museum. There is also a Philatelic Museum on the corner of Sparks and Bank sts. If you're into history or stamps, you've got to see that one. If you want to see beautiful woodwork you have to see the parliamentary library.

Montreal, well, you've got to see Chinatown, Place Bonaventure, the old part of the city and Basilique Notre Dame which is a real eye-opener. Then, you've got to go to rue Ste Catherine after about 10:00 p.m. Be prepared to pull and all nighter. It will still be warm enough so the street won't close until 9:00 a.m. when the day crowds start. 



labric said:


> Not much fun touring in the rain but we did manage a day of sightseeing along the St Laurent, and east of QC.


So, you've seen the "Basilique de St. Anne de Beaupre" and probably Ile d'Orleans. If you went further east you would have seen the Charlevoix region of Quebec. This region is one of the most popular destinations for French-speaking people from around the world. It is absolutely beautiful and very quaint.



labric said:


> As a Westerner, I am very envious of all the hardwood (Maple) trees and if I had access to that kind of wood, I would certainly see the need for a 12" riser on the bandsaw. We only have access to mostly softwood, Spruce and Jack Pine and some limited hardwoods in Birch and alot of scrub Poplar trees which is of limited use in the workshop. Most good hardwood has to be purchased or imported from the east.


I burn >5 cords of maple and silver birch in a year. I probably burn more in one season that you'd use in a lifetime for furniture. If you went south from Levis you'd run into the village of St. Malachie. In the 20th century, this was one of the principal sources of furniture hardwood, maples, birches, oaks, some hickory and a wide variety of softwoods. There is no sign of the 7 mills and the 4,500 people that worked in those mills today. There are few people that still remember the mills.



labric said:


> Well I got to find my galoshes as it looks like its going to rain all day. again.:cray:


Don't dispair, tomorrow is supposed to be beautiful.

Enjoy your trip.


----------



## Old_Chipper (Mar 30, 2009)

I think you have enough opinions, but I would add, try and work a deal to get the dealer to throw in a blade welder. Blades are a rip off when you buy them pre-welded. Enco and others sell it in 100 ft rolls; very cheap that way. Of course it depends on how much you will use it. You might be surprised how much you would use a welder if you had one, things like inside circles, etc. My Rockwell blade welder is broke right now. I can’t believe how many times I’ve needed it in the last couple weeks. I have a 20” and a 14” with the riser. Haven’t used the 20” in months. But I don’t do a lot of re-sawing. I don’t want to start a quarrel here, but unless you spend big bucks for a VS, I think you will find you will never change the speed. Just not worth the trouble. Now metal is a different ball game, you really need the speed choices. Get what suits your needs not ours!
Most of us suffer from the “Tim Taylor”!!! syndrome (Bigger is better!) Uhhhmmmm!


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Dan:
> 
> OK, you're not going to like me.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the information and why on earth would I be mad at you? I like it when people take the time like you have to explain your position and back it up by giving prices with model numbers. 

For me the forum is a great arena to share what others have learned without having to be 100 yrs old before you learn everything.

I want to use this bandsaw primarily for re-sawing rough cut lumber and cutting curves if need be. I think 12" re-saw is a must and I would prefer a 220 volt motor or one that is selectable.

Not in a rush to buy it right away and I have never been a spur of the moment shopper. That is why the new wood store sort of pissed me off when they said I had only till tomorrow to buy these two machines I was interested in. Not the way to win this potential customer over thats for sure.

My question now deals with Cast Iron wheels vs Aluminium wheels. Is there a big difference other than the momentum the cast iron offers over the lighter Al wheel?


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

*Mechanics / Millwrights!*



TRN_Diesel said:


> Thanks George for the tips and sharing your knowledge with me. Makes sense what you are saying so I will definitely go with the variable speed. Its a shame the 16" does not have variable speed and only the 18" and a 14".


If the motor and bandsaw shaft were long enough, couldn't Dan just replace the existing pulleys with dual sized units (properly matched for size, of course)???

I don't know, but wonder... On my Delta there's plenty of shaft to do it (if I ever needed it) if there's not a compelling reason not to do so.


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

TRN_Diesel said:


> For me the forum is a great arena to share what others have learned without having to be 100 yrs old before you learn everything.


My understanding exactly.



TRN_Diesel said:


> My question now deals with Cast Iron wheels vs Aluminium wheels. Is there a big difference other than the momentum the cast iron offers over the lighter Al wheel?


I would think the major difference would be in vibrations. The cast iron wheels offer a "flywheel" effect in that it smooths out the pulsing of an electric motor. No matter how well balanced, the saw will vibrate. The aluminum would be lighter thus vibrations would be less. My wheels are "light" cast iron in that they are spoked to reduce their weight. However, they're still pretty heavy.

Jim:

There's an idler assembly stuck between the motor and the wheel on the speed adjustable models. This allows the speed adjustments to be moved above the motor box. I think those models where the motor is beside the bottom wheel, there is no speed adjustment. If there is sufficient shaft length an adjustment would be interesting to explore.

Out of the box, the speed of these saws are about 2750 sfpm. I never run mine above 750. I seldom change the speed but I always use the slowest speed. I agree metal is a different matter. However, there is a good reason to opt for the three speed. It increases the versatility of the saw for little more money.


----------



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

> The aluminum would be lighter thus vibrations would be less


 Wouldn't it be the reverse? The heavier the wheel the less the vibration?


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Wouldn't it be the reverse? The heavier the wheel the less the vibration?


We'll have to let the engineers decide that one. My logic says less weight to throw around but then again, that's my logic, normally accused of being SNAFU "situation normal all fouled up!"


----------

