# Lee Valley Box Slotting Bits



## taxque (Jun 30, 2009)

I know that many of you have used these. How are they different from a rabbeting bit? For that matter after clamping/taping the box together - would not a regualar slotting bit work as well?

Greg


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

taxque said:


> I know that many of you have used these. How are they different from a rabbeting bit? For that matter after clamping/taping the box together - would not a regualar slotting bit work as well?
> 
> Greg


Hi Greg - Can't say I have used those. The only thing I can think of is they may have a smaller large diameter. This would allow them to get closer into the corner of the box. Looks a little pricey for a slot cutter to me. :no:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Greg

I have one (1/4" ) and they work very well they are not the same as a slot or rabbet bit,very smaller diam.cutter made to take the place of a strait bit for box slots..it's always a challenge to drop the bit on the stock for the start/stop slot in a box or drawer..but the bit makes it easy and safe..

But I use it b/4 the box is glued up..most of the time,it's great tool for putting in corner blocks on case work frames..used with a trim router most of the time..

16J83.14,1/4",1/4" or 5/16",1/4",$30.80

Lee Valley Tools - Important Announcement
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taxque said:


> I know that many of you have used these. How are they different from a rabbeting bit? For that matter after clamping/taping the box together - would not a regualar slotting bit work as well?
> 
> Greg


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

A (box) slotting bit and a rabbeting bit are two different things. A rabbeting bit is for removing wood at the edge of a board (creating a lip) to a set width determined by the cutter width and bearing size and the height of the cut determined by the amount of bit exposed below the baseplate of the router. A slotting bit cuts a slot of thickness equal to the cutter thickness. Depth can be controlled by a bearing or by a fence. 
The Lee Valley bit you are talking about is equipped with bearings that are preset for various thicknesses of panel material that drawers are commonly made from. You would still have to be very careful to make accurate height adjustments for each tooth or groove and you would be limited by the length of the bit and shank. Many here would probably say that a straight bit and finger jointing jig would be more practical.
With that said, I would still recommend a slotting set. I have Asian set with 4 cutters, bearing guide, and various spacers. One cutter is the same thickness as a biscuit cutter so that you can use it for standard biscuits. You can also use the cutters to make slots for spline joints and 2 cutters with appropriate spacer(s) can make a tongue for a groove made with one cutter (on a table mounted router with fence). They make a very versatile bit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Charles

What is a "straight bit and finger jointing jig" ????

I love router bits how about a picture of your set and a link to a spot to get one and what did you pay for it.. PLS..







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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> HI Charles
> 
> What is a "straight bit and finger jointing jig" ????
> 
> ...


Not sure why you are asking to see my router bit collection as it is not germane to this thread. Will be glad to PM you with a pic if you really want. In the meantime check these links for examples if you want.

Finger-Joint Jig for the Tablesaw - Fine Woodworking Interactive 

I made one for my table saw very similar to the one in the link. But as has been pointed out before, this is a router forum. A jig for router would work the same.

Lee Valley Tools - Item Search

There are a variety of straight bits here although I am sure you must already have quite a few.
Were you trying to make a point?????????


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Charles

A PM would be great but you can't add a picture to a PM, I just wanted to see your set of your Asian(CE) slotting bits..like they say one picture is worth a 1000 words,,,,...>>>

What you call a finger joint I call a box joint..to me a finger joint comes to a point so to speak..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-PC-1-2-Sh...604809255?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item20bcb32027

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Cherryville Chuck said:


> Not sure why you are asking to see my router bit collection as it is not germane to this thread. Will be glad to PM you with a pic if you really want. In the meantime check these links for examples if you want.
> 
> Finger-Joint Jig for the Tablesaw - Fine Woodworking Interactive
> 
> ...


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## taxque (Jun 30, 2009)

Thanks guys. The bit looks very similar to these:

Search for Woodworking Supplies at Woodcraft.com

I have some of these and was hoping they were. When I cut the dado and grooves for box bottoms on each piece separately ( using straight cutter on router table) - on occasion they are just a smidge off. 

Since the box is assemble when using the box slotting bit - it just seemed that it would eliminate this error since you are doing it with the box temporarily assembled prior to the cut.

Greg


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> HI Charles
> 
> A PM would be great but you can't add a picture to a PM, I just wanted to see your set of your Asian(CE) slotting bits..like they say one picture is worth a 1000 words,,,,...>>>
> 
> ...


I call both a finger joint. In case you didn't notice, Fine Woodworking called it a finger joint first and "also called a box joint". The Brits call a rabbet a "rebate". Phil P was helping someone from South Africa build steps to a rise and "going". We call it a rise and run. Doesn't make any of us right or wrong. Just different.
I think I managed to get the picture attached. The set I got was a house brand, I think, of House of Tools which is now defunct. I think I paid $59- 65 for it which I still consider a good buy. It offers a lot of options.
I still would not use the set to make finger joints with. I would use my table saw and the jig that Fine Woodworking featured as it is faster and easier than most router setups. Something someone said though got me to thinking that a drawer could be butt joined together and them run past a slot cutter at a 45 deg. angle and then splined. That would be very fast and very easy as there would be no alignment problems and almost as strong as a traditional finger/box joint.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Chuck for the picture 

You are right we all are "Just different."

But Sorry to say what you have in the picture is a set of slot cutters on a stick not a true set of box slot bits.
I have many sets of the slot cutters and they are Not the same as the box slot bits..the cutter on a box bit can't come off of the shank and the bit is all one part and it's a extra long shank,see link below..not made to put in the box/finger joints in place just the slot for the bottom/top part of the box..

Lee Valley Tools - Important Announcement

1PC 1/2" SH Slot Assembly Router Bit & 4 Cutters Set | eBay

11pc 1/4" Shank Slot, Tongue & Groove Router Bit Set | eBay

Just a note,,,,, box joints are for right angle joints the norm, finger joints the are for molding,door frame stock,etc.

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Cherryville Chuck said:


> I call both a finger joint. In case you didn't notice, Fine Woodworking called it a finger joint first and "also called a box joint". The Brits call a rabbet a "rebate". Phil P was helping someone from South Africa build steps to a rise and "going". We call it a rise and run. Doesn't make any of us right or wrong. Just different.
> I think I managed to get the picture attached. The set I got was a house brand, I think, of House of Tools which is now defunct. I think I paid $59- 65 for it which I still consider a good buy. It offers a lot of options.
> I still would not use the set to make finger joints with. I would use my table saw and the jig that Fine Woodworking featured as it is faster and easier than most router setups. Something someone said though got me to thinking that a drawer could be butt joined together and them run past a slot cutter at a 45 deg. angle and then splined. That would be very fast and very easy as there would be no alignment problems and almost as strong as a traditional finger/box joint.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> HI Charles
> 
> A PM would be great but you can't add a picture to a PM, I just wanted to see your set of your Asian(CE) slotting bits..like they say one picture is worth a 1000 words,,,,...>>>
> 
> ...


Hi Bob...I have a set of the router bits you linked to for cutting box joint or finger joints if you will. I can't keep the cutters tightened enough to keep them aligned. The only time I used the cutter was on a practice piece and it didn't cut the top slot all the way through before the cutter started slipping. Like I said it seems I can't tighten the nut enough to prevent the slipping. Any suggestions on how to resolve this problem short of welding them in place?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ken


I would suggest a 3/8" impact air wrench/tool I never clamp the shank in a vice I use the block jig below to hold them and I never use the chuck on the router to hold them, no need to wipe out a router chuck to tighten a router bit nut or screw.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-impact-wrench-93296.html

Sometimes called a butterfly impact ▼
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-ei...s-torque-compact-air-impact-wrench-93100.html
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Ken Bee said:


> Hi Bob...I have a set of the router bits you linked to for cutting box joint or finger joints if you will. I can't keep the cutters tightened enough to keep them aligned. The only time I used the cutter was on a practice piece and it didn't cut the top slot all the way through before the cutter started slipping. Like I said it seems I can't tighten the nut enough to prevent the slipping. Any suggestions on how to resolve this problem short of welding them in place?


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