# 1 inch dado



## nummins (Dec 21, 2008)

I have just ordered a Kreg mitre track and realised that I need to cut a 1 inch dado for it to fit my router table. I don't have a bit this diameter but have a variety of lesser straight bits, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 etc. I imagine that the best way is to cut one of these then adjust the attachable fence on my triton router to complete to 1 inch. I envisage a series of test cuts until it is correct. 

Have I got this right or is there something I am missing. Advise appreciated.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI nummins

Yes and no, I would not use a router fence,,you need to be dead on when you put the slot in place , I would suggest you clamp two guide boards down to the table top to make a tack for the router base plus clamp some stock to the in feed and the out feed side of the router table, you don't want to chip/rip out the ends of the router table top..

Once gone you can't get it back..

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nummins said:


> I have just ordered a Kreg mitre track and realised that I need to cut a 1 inch dado for it to fit my router table. I don't have a bit this diameter but have a variety of lesser straight bits, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 etc. I imagine that the best way is to cut one of these then adjust the attachable fence on my triton router to complete to 1 inch. I envisage a series of test cuts until it is correct.
> 
> Have I got this right or is there something I am missing. Advise appreciated.


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## TAJones (Dec 31, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI nummins
> 
> Yes and no, I would not use a router fence,,you need to be dead on when you put the slot in place , I would suggest you clamp two guide boards down to the table top to make a tack for the router base plus clamp some stock to the in feed and the out feed side of the router table, you don't want to chip/rip out the ends of the router table top..
> 
> ...


Ok, perfect jig. First Measurement measure the bottom of your router base plate add 4" to that measurement. Get yourself a 2'X4' sheet 1/4" thick sheet of masonite. Second Measurement Next measure the length of the dado you need to make add 8". Now cut four strips that length 2' wide. Now cut one piece to Second Measurement with the width of first measurement. Now glue two of the 2" strips on each outside edge of the wide strip. You should now have one piece with a valley in the middle between 2" strips to guide the router. I use a 1/2" bit for 3/4" dadoes and 3/4" for dadoes uo to 1 1/2", so use your 3/4" bit for this jig. Now measure to the center of this jig and saw it in half length wise. clamp it down leaving the 1/4" edge hanging off something. chuck up your 3/4" bit set the bit to stick out to the middle of bit and run it down both strips. Mark your dado slot on table clamp down on the line one strip put your track against this strip and now put the other strip against the track and clamp. Now all you have to do is set your 3/4" bit to the thickness of the track and route. This will give you a perfect dado for your track. Hope this helps. I just did this today for a combo track for my table.. Tip if you put down some 2" masking tape and do your initial layout on the tape, leaving it in place that will solve chipout along the cut. If you can't picture this jig e-mail me and I will send you a photo of mine.


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

(This assumes that a beginner does NOT have a table saw etc. to cut "perfect" straight edges to make a "perfect" jig YET).

Let's say a starting handyman has just bought a router and he has in the box a guide bush and a 1/2" bit. That's all.

I would first get to the hardware store and buy a set of MDF precut for use as "door jambs". 0.750" x 4.625" x 7'

Now if you carefully clamp 2 "door jambs" on the table with the width between them the width of the router base plate + 1/2" you already can cut a PERFECT 1" dado using your 1/2" bit.


To prepare yourself for future:-
Next use this method to cut a long 900mm closed slot - the width of your guide bush. If you do not have a guide bush buy one (say 30mm.)


The next time, the door jamb with a slot becomes the guide for cutting straight lines the size of your bit quickly and accurately if you mount your bit + guide bush.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Too many methods confuse the issue which is simple to do.
As Bob said, use 2 straight boards clamped to the table.

You will need to measure the diameter of the router base. Add 1" (track width) to that.
Clamp 2 straight boards to the table that distance apart, MINUS the diameter of whatever bit you use. With the router on the table top and bit set to depth of track, rout out everything in that 1" dado.

Example: Diameter of base = 7"
Bit diam.: 1/2"
Distance between straight boards = 7 1/2"

Bit diam.: 3/4"
Distance: 7 1/4"

Bit diam.: 1/4"
Distance: 7 3/4"

This is assuming you don't have guide bushings.


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## opelblues (Aug 22, 2008)

this is one of the first things i ever made for the router, my dad use to buy shopnotes from a shop in gympie when he was working for queensland rail, i now have them.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

1" bits are expensive, but as you get deeper into router and table use the need for one will creep up more and more, like plowing out material.

A clamped metal yard stick, sht. rk square or 4' level works fine for a straight edge.
Whatever dia. bit you use, rip a spacer strip of pine with the balance of the 1" total.
Mark the dado position by sitting the router on the table, bottom out the bit and marking the base on the side facing the center of the table.
Parallel the mark on the other end and clamp the edge.
Make the 1st cut, add the spacer and make the 2nd cut


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi guys

Just one more way to get this type of done 

By the way 1" bits are cheap 14.oo bucks, but it's best if you make the jig below and if you have a 1 1/2" brass guide, it's best to put in a 1 1/2" slot in that way you can use it to put in 1" wide slots easy and safe and right on the button every time...

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2711-dado-jig-plunge-router.html

Straight Router Bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_straight.html

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http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_plung.html
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_dado.html

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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

My last Freud !" cost me over $30.00


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ghidrah

If you use it day in and day out that's the best way to go if not well..

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Ghidrah said:


> My last Freud !" cost me over $30.00


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Ghidrah said:


> My last Freud !" cost me over $30.00


Where are you?
Please update your profile.


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Hi Nick
Not butting in on your post but I've been contemplating putting a miter grove in my table also.
How far from the bit is the best location?

I was thinking of putting it on the back side of the router mounting plate, (in pic where the knob are on the table) here it will normally be out of the way & behind the fence, then turn flip the fence around & use the back side of the bench when I need to use the miter grove.








Any reasons not to do it this way. Is the distance from the bit critical for any reason?
(figured I'd ask the guru's first this time)


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Got a table saw? Use the distance of the miter track to the blade of the saw, or somewhere close.
You have your RT insert pretty close to the front of the table. Was there a reason for that?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dave 

the snapshot below gives you a hint where to put the slot in..

Then you don't need the hole in the top any more 

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Bogydave said:


> Hi Nick
> Not butting in on your post but I've been contemplating putting a miter grove in my table also.
> How far from the bit is the best location?
> 
> ...


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Sorry Cape Cod Ma.

It's not so much that I use (X) every day, but that when I do, it's the best tool for the job. If it will eliminate a process and or save time and still provide the quality I require then I pay the price for the future savings. 

I'm not saying less expensive bits are of poorer quality, I have CMT, Amana, Bosch, Freud, White and Viper bits
Last night I found an old Amana, (nick in the carbide I must have dropped it and the trauma blocked out the horror of the memory). I bet it cost me way more than the newer Freud.
With straight bits, chamfers etc., I try to get one with the longest overall length and cutting edge possible to extend my options. 

I try to buy local, (which is getting harder to do on the Cape fewer distributors) most locals only carry the popular stuff. We're price punished for the bridge.


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Hi Mike
I put it close to the front because it's easier on the back (easier to reach) & most of the time I work near the front. Also, when I need more surface area outside the bit, I spin the fence & work from the back side. My thinking was it added some versatility to the top.

BJ
Not sure what you are referring to? I thought about adding an aluminum miter channel to the front edge face. I might add to versatility to use as miter & various clamps, feather boards etc as needed for future whatever. If I put a miter slot parallel to the fence on the back side, I could add a miter slot perpendicular to the fence on the front side. 
Thought process is: get everything I can on this top, use it, get the pros & cons so when I build the next top I have a better understanding of what I need & want. 
There is no way I can forsee future needs, as I've used a table top router for only 2 months. The things I've learned from this site have put me ahead of the self learning curve but my knowledge is nowhere near (nor can catch up with) the many folks on the site with many years of experience.
Seems that as I get more experience, it just produces more questions (which is a good thing) and what has made the router table & this site so much fun. 
I have finally learned to ask or look here before I make too many more rookie mistakes.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

If you put it parallel to the fence you can use it for many things...but don't put one on the back side of the top..
Leave it clean,,some time down the road you will want to do big panels or wide stock, and you can just flip your fence around and do it easy..

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Bogydave said:


> Hi Mike
> I put it close to the front because it's easier on the back (easier to reach) & most of the time I work near the front. Also, when I need more surface area outside the bit, I spin the fence & work from the back side. My thinking was it added some versatility to the top.
> 
> BJ
> ...


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

That's a clever track on the table Bob. Does it have a name? I've always done my finger joints on the TS.


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

BJ
I notice the track, you show, has 2 usable groves.
Would this be the optimum way to go? (Miter track/"T" track combo) require a wider grove in table.
Supplier of the best miter track.
I have a Grizzly TS & Shop smith miter gauge (not compatible with each other ???) 
I think the MLCS one is same as the one on the TS.
MLCS has both combo & miter, Good ones?
My table is 37-1/4".
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc1.html


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

That "track" is available from http://www.oak-park.com/ who sponsors this web site. It's called a spacer fence, and is the slickest thing for making box joints on the router table. 

Brian


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

The combo tee track will let you use many items, like a sled.. 

You will need to dig a little bit because your table size, but it's worth the time to find it  you can but in both at the same time, but it's alot essayer to just put in one slot,, I will say not all tee track stock is made the same way,, once you select the type you want to use you will need to stick with it,,, (the slots are not all the same size) 
I make just about all my tee slot bolts and slides  most of the time I use toggle bolt screws and they only cost me .10 cents ea..then I use hardwood for the 1" wide sides...and a tee nut..

"I have a Grizzly TS & Shop smith miter gauge (not compatible with each other ???) " o yes they are, just need to think out side of the box 

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Bogydave said:


> BJ
> I notice the track, you show, has 2 usable groves.
> Would this be the optimum way to go? (Miter track/"T" track combo) require a wider grove in table.
> Supplier of the best miter track.
> ...


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

OK bj
Fish on, I took the bait.
"I have a Grizzly TS & Shop smith miter gauge (not compatible with each other ???) " o yes they are, just need to think out side of the box 
Shims added to the Shop smith one?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

Now that I have you on the hook 

Almost all tools that fit the table saw or any other tool you have has screws the hold it place as one unit,,,just make your own guides out of ploy.or hardwood...and screw it to your new guides that fit just right 

tee nuts work very well for this type of job,, just chuck up a bolt in your battery drill and screw on a tee nut and turn IT DOWN ( grind it down to a 3/8" OD) on the flange end of a 1/4-20 tee nut...and just like that you made a sex screw..  that will fit just about any guide you make...



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Bogydave said:


> OK bj
> Fish on, I took the bait.
> "I have a Grizzly TS & Shop smith miter gauge (not compatible with each other ???) " o yes they are, just need to think out side of the box
> Shims added to the Shop smith one?


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Thats pretty clever.
But I still have 2 different width miter gauge guides.
The guides fit just right as they are now just amazed that Shop smith would make theirs just a little narrower (20/1000 or so). The american way I guess.
Nice to know a way to make &/or repair or customize them. 
Will keep it in the "bag of tricks" for use when needed. 
Fish OFF


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dave

Many of my tools have diff.slots,,but it's just takes a screw driver or a Allen hex key to switch things over.. 

The Craftsman is a real night mare..

see below 

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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Thanks BJ
Clever!!!
Very nice & simple. 
Multitude of applications (jigs, sleds etc) comes to mind for uses.
Source for the plastic? 
Hardwood would work but plastic is slick & don't swell/shrink.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave
Thanks

http://www.ptreeusa.com/uhmwproducts.htm
and 
eBay is a good spot.

What Is *UHMW*?
(Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene)​ 
Use this UHMW to make jigs and fixtures for your table saw , router table, etc.​ *UHMW Polymer (plastic) is a linear polyethylene with a molecular weight in the range of 3,000,000 to 6,000,000. This value represents the "average molecular weight". 
Therefore UHMW is 10 times heavier than regular high density polyethylene.* * Characteristics:*​ 

*The highest abrasion resistance*
*Outstanding impact strength even at low temperatures*
*Excellent sliding material due to low coefficient of friction*
*Self-lubricating*
*Easily machined with common woodworking tools*


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Bogydave said:


> Thanks BJ
> Clever!!!
> Very nice & simple.
> Multitude of applications (jigs, sleds etc) comes to mind for uses.
> ...


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## XCaddis (Jul 13, 2009)

Which issue of Shopnotes is this in?





opelblues said:


> this is one of the first things i ever made for the router, my dad use to buy shopnotes from a shop in gympie when he was working for queensland rail, i now have them.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

XCaddis said:


> Which issue of Shopnotes is this in?


That particular dado jig is from ShopNotes Issue 76; here is a vid of it in use: Shopnotes dado jig vid


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