# My New Router Fence V 2.0



## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

Here is my new V 2.0 Router Fence. I shoulda' made this long ago, it makes my routine work a snap. I incorporated all the features that I kept saying to myself, "...next time I'm gonna add this or that feature...".

Thanks Pat Warner for the inspiration. Now I need to turn my attention to a kick butt table.


----------



## mihayy2002 (Feb 9, 2012)

PorterCable690 said:


> Here is my new V 2.0 Router Fence. I shoulda' made this long ago, it makes my routine work a snap. I incorporated all the features that I kept saying to myself, "...next time I'm gonna add this or that feature...".
> 
> Thanks Pat Warner for the inspiration. Now I need to turn my attention to a kick butt table.


Nice job Keith, can u send me the plan for this?,thanck you, best regards from Europe , Michael


----------



## TheOakDude (Oct 11, 2011)

Hi Keith,
nice job. I also would appreciate some detail about this fence as I am about to do mine. I will use some of your ideas and match it up with my own.
thanks
Paul


----------



## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

Impressively done Kieth. In particular I like what you did with the plexi-glass sheet to apply downward pressure to the workpiece.

Your TS/Router combo bears a striking resemblance to a BT3K series unit....

I have a 3100 with all the 'factory' routing accessories but don't use it to route very often because it's fence isn't 'feather board' friendly. Please add me to the list of users here that would love to see any of the plans you might have drawn up while building this out!


----------



## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Nice rig and should serve you well and making it as tall as you did is a nice touch.


----------



## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

PorterCable690 said:


> Here is my new V 2.0 Router Fence. I shoulda' made this long ago, it makes my routine work a snap. I incorporated all the features that I kept saying to myself, "...next time I'm gonna add this or that feature...".
> 
> Thanks Pat Warner for the inspiration. Now I need to turn my attention to a kick butt table.


Very nice design.
I do have a question. Why the plexiglass/acrylic piece to put downward pressure on the work piece, instead of featherboards?

I am hoping to build a similar fence myself this summer.

I eagerly await seeing our "kick butt" table.

Thanks


----------



## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

*My New Router V 2.0 Design Sketch*

Gentlemen - Thanks for the props and interest. I have attached a design sketch for those of you who are so inclined to use the V 2.0 design in part or whole. The acrylic hold down fence was included in the design to accomplish a couple of goals. One, to apply equal pressure on the target piece throughout the entire distance of the shaping path across the cutter. Two, it increases the capture velocity of the local exhaust system improving the dust collection. Three, it has a low coefficient of friction that enhances sliding the target piece across the cutter when it is lowered and acts as a fence. Lastly, it holds sacrificial fences near the backside of the cutter (zero clearance) to reduce tear out _without_ the use of clamps. Plus, it looks cool, thereby, inching the entire router fence up the cool scale!

Yes, you are right, that is a BT3000 TS. I do not use the router table option, just sat the router fence on it for the photo op. 

Hope the drawing is helpful.

(Scratchin' head) Now I must turn my attention to the new and improved router table design....mmmmmm


----------



## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

*My New Router Table Top V2.0*

Just completed my new router table top to replace my old beast. Thanks all for the ideas on creating a circle cutting jig which made the centerpiece feature of my new table top shine.

Now I must turn my attention to creating the support for the table top. Or maybe I should leave well enough alone and continue using what's shown in pic three. Any ideas????


----------



## OlaC (May 16, 2011)

Nice fence but I do have some questions

Why not include the micro adjustment also? (if you've studied Warners fence you know what I mean). Since your fence is already divided into moving part and base part, it should be easy to do, assuming the grooves for the t-tracks are tight enough to avoid freeplay. In my opinion the micro adjustment screw thing is the main reason to split the fence in upper/lower half.

The acrylic plate is not a hold down on Warners fence, it's there to allow "uninterupted" guiding path for the wood that is guided against it, not underneath. Bit fits under the acrylic and the vertical movement is to accomodate different bit heights. I think it's very difficult to use a stiff material as hold down.


----------



## sparky the wood worker (Jul 3, 2012)

*router fence design drawing*



PorterCable690 said:


> Gentlemen - Thanks for the props and interest. I have attached a design sketch for those of you who are so inclined to use the V 2.0 design in part or whole. The acrylic hold down fence was included in the design to accomplish a couple of goals. One, to apply equal pressure on the target piece throughout the entire distance of the shaping path across the cutter. Two, it increases the capture velocity of the local exhaust system improving the dust collection. Three, it has a low coefficient of friction that enhances sliding the target piece across the cutter when it is lowered and acts as a fence. Lastly, it holds sacrificial fences near the backside of the cutter (zero clearance) to reduce tear out _without_ the use of clamps. Plus, it looks cool, thereby, inching the entire router fence up the cool scale!
> 
> Yes, you are right, that is a BT3000 TS. I do not use the router table option, just sat the router fence on it for the photo op.
> 
> ...


Keith:
Will be building a router fence for my 30 year old Craftsman metal router table very similar to your design. Will be using 2-16" X 6" pieces of oak flooring {tongue and groove} with a 12" X 2" piece mounted on top with 1- 5/8" spacing between 16 " pieces. Will let you know how it turns out.................. Bill


----------



## Rajuncajun (Aug 1, 2012)

Bad to the bone. Pat Warner has provided such a wealth of info...

Nice fence!!


----------



## sparky the wood worker (Jul 3, 2012)

*router fence design drawing*



sparky the wood worker said:


> Keith:
> Will be building a router fence for my 30 year old Craftsman metal router table very similar to your design. Will be using 2-16" X 6" pieces of oak flooring {tongue and groove} with a 12" X 2" piece mounted on top with 1- 5/8" spacing between 16 " pieces. Will let you know how it turns out.................. Bill


 Keith:
The router fence design worked very well on my small craftsman table. Hopefully will get a chance to use the router table in the next couple of weeks.......... Bill:sold:


----------



## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

*Excellent News!*

Excellent News!

Glad the design inspired others, as Pat Warner inspired me.

Here it is in action.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"Or maybe I should leave well enough alone and continue using what's shown in pic three."
-Keith
Lol......you _were_ joking, right? 
In the extremely unlikely case you weren't, no.
(At a guess, I think watching your 'table' fall over, and your router disassemble itself on the concrete might have a major effect on your mood.)


----------



## PorterCable690 (Apr 24, 2012)

Yes...Dan my good man... I was joking but you should have seen the fallout from others who thought I was serious. Geez louise! The pitfalls of forum postings...inflection is lost in translation when jokes are floated out there...can be dangerous. I got good advice from others, so I'm careful now.


----------



## sparky the wood worker (Jul 3, 2012)

*router fence design drawing*



PorterCable690 said:


> Excellent News!
> 
> Glad the design inspired others, as Pat Warner inspired me.
> 
> Here it is in action.


Keith:
Finally got a chance to use the router fence with a 3/8" roundover bit in the table to route a pine 2" X 6". Did a great job; the 3/4 HP Craftsman Model # 17370 router made 8 very nice cuts. As an added innovation I screwed a 1/4" X 2" X 6" wood plate on the back of the fence to cover the 1 5/8" router slot and hole sawed a 1 3/8" round hole in the wood plate for the dust collector attachment. Have a Craftsman wet/dry vacuum that took care of the saw dust from routing. Many thanks for your excellent fence design. Bill


----------



## tiir22 (Aug 19, 2012)

Cool. Good job man.


----------

