# Router plate installation . How close is close enough



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Guys I played around doing test hole after test hole . By going to a 3/8" straight bit and a 27mm guide bushing I got as close as I can theoretically get (well for a noob like me ) 

It is not rabbited here as this is a test hole . Plus I need a new template as I have an issue on the side .
My question is , I have it in but there is a tiny bit of movement in the plate . I can just get a finger nail in the excess room . Sorry I don't have feeler gauges yet .

The Incra plate does have a locking cam , so maybe it will be ok ? 
For owners with an incra table , is there any movement whatsoever when you drop your plate or router lift in , or is it as snug as a bug ? 
Is between 1/128" and 1/64" acceptable , or should it be rock solid which I suspect is the right answer .

Here's a few pics of the test hole 



I wasn't holding it flush here so it may look deceiving as it's inside a bit


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

My router plate, and table, are both homemade. I have no movement at alll - my plate is not square, rather a sort of odd shape, which does tend to lock it in place. But if it did move, I would just place a small shim, or two, in the crack, and not worry about it.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

JOAT said:


> My router plate, and table, are both homemade. I have no movement at alll - my plate is not square, rather a sort of odd shape, which does tend to lock it in place. But if it did move, I would just place a small shim, or two, in the crack, and not worry about it.


I was actually thinking shim to , but don't you typically remove the plate to change bits ?
I've never used a router plate before , just attached the bottom of the base to my TS extension

I guess I could always try bondo in the gap as long as I can get the plate out again . I have no idea how to make it any better other than retrofitting Incra's top into my TS extension


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok I think I got it . I'm going to wrap a few layers of tape around my 27mm guide bushing that's attached to the routers plate . This will force the router out a tiny bit creating a smaller hole


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok I got it figured out . I went around the bushing twice with that foil tape you use for ductwork changing the size of the hole .
Not very scientific but it worked . In theory the bushing wouldn't be a perfect circle after adding the tape but it seemed ok 


The end result , with just that tiny change in bushing size the plate fit in perfectly . It was so snug I had to apply a bit of pressure on it to get it in . As I mentioned , disregard the small errors around the perimeter as I have to take my time and make a better jig , but at least I know I can do it now ! 

The finished product after the new jig is done should be within a Rickameter . That's one biz-zillionth of a meter for those who don't know what a Rickameter is 




Hot dang I like routers ! (or when a plan comes together)


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

RainMan1 said:


> I was actually thinking shim to , but don't you typically remove the plate to change bits ?


I do, yes, I prefer that to a router lift, of any type. But others prefer router lifts. I can pull my plate off, and pop it back in place in just seconds, not counting the time to change bits. However, I have several routers, and have each mounted to a plate, each with a different bit, so very little time to change bits.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

One of the advantages of the MUSCLECHUCK is that it gives about an extra 1/2" of height which in most cases means that the router doesn't need to be removed for bit change, also just a half turn of a ball ended 4mm Allen key fully tightens/loosens the bit.


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

If you use a 30mm bush with 18mm bit to create the template, then the same bush with a 6mm bit for the actual hole rebate it would be perfect. The triple offset moves the outside of the cut to the inside edge of the final cut for the plate.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Then again, it could be done like this illuminated router base with a router circle jig.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

vindaloo said:


> If you use a 30mm bush with 18mm bit to create the template, then the same bush with a 6mm bit for the actual hole rebate it would be perfect. The triple offset moves the outside of the cut to the inside edge of the final cut for the plate.


This is the math I needed ! 
Issue though . I only have a 24mm , 27mm and 40mm bushing guides. There's one more available but out of stock . Obviously I could get the bit

Looks like I better buy the adaptor and some other brand of guides as I'm not really all that hot and bothered about my tape idea although it worked


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

By using the circle router jig you simply draw two circles with a compass, set the straight bit on the inside of the line and you end up with EXACT diameter cut-outs


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Harry I do a circle jig to . Never thought of doing it that way . assuming your routing in 4 holes with the circle jig then connecting the dots


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## iGator (Jun 16, 2014)

Thanks for the lesson! I am in the process of trying to cut the hole for my router table insert. This helps a lot!


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

When I routed out my hole, the tape slipped on my slightly which gave me a little bigger hole than needed. It was within enough that the slop was taken out out by the corner adjustment screw.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I posted this update in the original thread, but felt it was worth mentioning here as well, so that others can benefit. Use a 1/4" router bit, but you will need a 1/2" guide to create the template, and a 1" guide to use the template. The reason being is that the extra 1/2" (or more accurate the added radius equaling the size of the bit) is needed to move the bit to the right location for cutting the recess for the router plate.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Thanks for the info guys . Mike I did some weird stuff but if it came out perfect , well except for the fact I veered off the plate and the first template has an issue . 
I would prefer your idea but am running out of time as this Festool only has 4 metric bushing guides available and I don't have the adaptor to use PC ones . Kicking myself for that one .


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike I found some more guides at LeeValley , and they have 1/2" and 1" in the kit . 

1-3/16" Brass Template Guides - Lee Valley Tools



I'm hoping they fit in the adaptor on this page second from the bottom . It doesn't say much other than it fits two piece bushings . And yes I was going to buy the centring mandrel too

http://www.leevalley.com/en/festool/page.aspx?p=68488&cat=5,105,68341&pb=1#pb


I see the 30mm bushing is available now . I'm going to order it to complete my set , but not sure if it will help with this situation


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

NiceG316 said:


> I posted this update in the original thread, but felt it was worth mentioning here as well, so that others can benefit. Use a 1/4" router bit, but you will need a 1/2" guide to create the template, and a 1" guide to use the template. The reason being is that the extra 1/2" (or more accurate the added radius equaling the size of the bit) is needed to move the bit to the right location for cutting the recess for the router plate.


I should have got out a pencil and paper and maybe I could have seen this for myself Mike .
I wonder if there's a list of known sizes for doing this or a formula?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

In all of my numerous posted photo-shoots I clearly show how to design a template.
For instance, if you want to rout a hole 4" in diameter then you choose a template guide, the bigger the better but size doesn't matter. You next choose a bit not too small because it would be weak and not too big because you will remove more material then necessary, causing unnecessary bit wear.
Let us assume that you decide on a 1" template guide and a 1/4" straight bit. The simple formula is: Guide dia, - bit dia + size if finished cut-out. So, we now have:

1" - 1/4" + 4" = 4 3/4" hole in the template which is made with a router circle jig.

For another example say we want to rout a rectangle measuring 9" x 6" and this time we'll use a 1 1/4" template guide with a 3/8" straight bit, 1 1/4" - 3/8" + 9" = 9 7/8"
and for the small side, 1 1/4" - 3/8" + 6" = 6 7/8" which means that the opening in the template has to be 9 7/8" x 6 7/8". All this and much, much more are clearly shown in my series "routing for beginners" which can be found as a sticky under
GUIDE BUSHINGS AND TEMPLATES on the home page.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Sorry for not checking out the other threads as I suspected there may be something like that here somewhere . Maybe even under guide bushings lol .Thanks Harry I'll take a look (as soon as my hearing is restored)


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

@Harry

Sorry Harry, I thought Rick wanted to make a template to assist with the hole for his router table plate, not make a circle


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