# Router bit brand



## lonestarsmoker (Jan 4, 2012)

Looking to buy my first router bits, what is a good quality brand. Also, why would I buy a 3/8 vs a 3/4 45 degree chamfer bit?

Thanks


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

lonestarsmoker said:


> Looking to buy my first router bits, what is a good quality brand.


In alphabetic order Amana, Freud, Whiteside.

Design attributes (shear and hook angles) and carbide quality/thickness may (lumber with grain reversals) make a big difference (less tear-out and breakage) or none at all (MDF doesn't have grain and whatever was on sale will work well enough).



> Also, why would I buy a 3/8 vs a 3/4 45 degree chamfer bit?


The smaller bit has much less metal and a correspondingly lower price tag. A big Amana 45 degree bit to miter 5/4 lumber runs $80 more than one that will miter thin lumber or put a 1/2" decorative chamfer on a piece. 

OTOH you might want to cut a chamfer taller than 3/8", perhaps because it's better and/or easier to make a miter (in 1/2 or thicker stock) with a straight cut on your table saw that gets turned into 45 degrees on the router table - you loose less to saw kerf so you get a better grain match on the miter, and it's easier to setup (just tape a straight piece on top to meet the bearing) in unusual situations like where you've reduced the thickness of one side of the joint.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

lonestarsmoker said:


> Looking to buy my first router bits, what is a good quality brand. Also, why would I buy a 3/8 vs a 3/4 45 degree chamfer bit?
> 
> Thanks


For a first set of bits, consider such places as MLCS, then as you learn what bits you use most, go to the high quality bits. Some places, such as MLCS, have two lines, a lower priced line and a higher priced line (Katana in the case of MLCS). There is a seller there who does seem to have quality bits at reasonable prices, and no bidding.

I personally have no experience with table saws so cannot authoritatively comment on Drew's suggestion to use a table saw, but I will comment anyway. I would use a router whenever possible, but that is my preference.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Drew Eckhardt said:


> OTOH you might want to cut a chamfer taller than 3/8", perhaps because it's better and/or easier to make a miter (in 1/2 or thicker stock) with a straight cut on your table saw that gets turned into 45 degrees on the router table - you loose less to saw kerf so you get a better grain match on the miter, and it's easier to setup (just tape a straight piece on top to meet the bearing) in unusual situations like where you've reduced the thickness of one side of the joint.


Whiteside, Freud, Sommerfeld, Amana. There are a few premium brands with quality carbide.
You don't need to loose any material to the saw kerf on a table saw. The 45 would be cut to the waste side of the material. You can also go straight to the 45 & skip the straight cut.


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

jlord said:


> Whiteside, Freud, Sommerfeld, Amana. There are a few premium brands with quality carbide.
> You don't need to loose any material to the saw kerf on a table saw. The 45 would be cut to the waste side of the material. You can also go straight to the 45 & skip the straight cut.


Except there isn't always a waste side.

Consider a mitered box with one board making four consecutive sides so the grain flows nicely around the piece. You only have a waste side before the first piece and after the last.


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## espookid (Jan 2, 2012)

Only the rich can afford to buy cheap things . So go for a few bits first to see what you need ,I have many sets and the same shapes are still in the boxes from every set ,some you use and others never ,so buy good and then build up the "set"
And watch your fingers


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Drew Eckhardt said:


> Except there isn't always a waste side.
> 
> Consider a mitered box with one board making four consecutive sides so the grain flows nicely around the piece. You only have a waste side before the first piece and after the last.


If you used a 45º chamfer bit to make your miter aren't you machining off the waste side of the material? Even if you rip your piece's straight first you still have saw kerf ripping the straight cuts. Each corner needs a 45º miter on both sides to complete the 90º joint for each of the four corners. You would be machining off the same waste for each piece with a router bit. All four pieces will have a miter cut on each end to make a square box. The long side grain is still intact to wrap your grain around the piece. Is there something I'm missing?


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## Seenya (Apr 11, 2010)

You may want to check out the Diablo bits. They're made by Freud but are a little less expensive. I have a couple and they've done well for me.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Seenya said:


> You may want to check out the Diablo bits. They're made by Freud but are a little less expensive. I have a couple and they've done well for me.


To add to that they are also found at Home Depot so they are easy to find.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Drew Eckhardt said:


> Except there isn't always a waste side.
> 
> Consider a mitered box with one board making four consecutive sides so the grain flows nicely around the piece. You only have a waste side before the first piece and after the last.


I build boxes and use mitered joints on 90% of them but rather than cut the miter joint with a saw I use a 90 degree "V" bit in my router table and don't cut all the way through my stock on the 3 center cuts. I leave around 1/32" inch uncut then tape the cut locations before folding it up. That absolutely leaves the grain intact all around the box carcase. The joints do break of course but leaves the grain pattern intact even though a little burnishing may be in order after glue up but that is no big deal. The 2 end cuts can be cut with a saw or in my case a 45 degree router bit because the grain will be different at that joint and on one back corner of the box anyhow. One other thing I do is take the fence off the router table, put a 36" extension on my miter gauge with an adjustable backing board to prevent chip out and coarse grit sandpaper secured with carpet tape to prevent the board from moving while routing. I learned about the procedure from one of my woodworking mags and tried it with great results so now that is my only method for mitered 45 degree joints when making the box carcase from one board.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Dan, read the sticky threads, they contain a lot of good information. Woodcraft sells the 10 most commonly used router bits in a set that is often on sale for $50. They have a 30 day money back guarantee so you know they will be right. These bits are average quality and not a bad way to start. Many jobs only require a small amount of the tip of a V bit. Using a small diameter V bit means lower cost. Other jobs need a larger bit. No reason to dull the edge of a more expensive large V bit for these simple tasks.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

mftha said:


> For a first set of bits, consider such places as MLCS, then as you learn what bits you use most, go to the high quality bits. Some places, such as MLCS, have two lines, a lower priced line and a higher priced line (Katana in the case of MLCS). *There is a seller there who does seem to have quality bits at reasonable prices, and no bidding*.
> 
> I personally have no experience with table saws so cannot authoritatively comment on Drew's suggestion to use a table saw, but I will comment anyway. I would use a router whenever possible, but that is my preference.


This sentence in bold from me make no sense in the absence of the missing words which would make it read "There is a seller *on eBay* there who does seem to have quality bits at reasonable prices, and no bidding!


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## Garyk (Dec 29, 2011)

An old and wise carpenter once told me "Son, you can buy the cheap tools over and over or buy the good stuff once." That said, I have used most of the brands on the market in a commercial shop setting. I find that the Whiteside bits last and stay sharp longer in heavy, daily use. The newer Freud bits would be my second choice. If you are going to use the bits occasionally you can get by with the less expensive ones but for heavy use bite the bullet and go with the good stuff.

Gary


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Gary, no argument about buying quality tools from me. At the same time consider that bits and blades will require sharpening. Depending on how much you use your bits and blades you will have to decide if you are better off sharpening or replacing. I have a nice selection of Whiteside bits that I have been buying on sale over the years. I have also picked up other high quality bits from Amana, Freud, Infinity and CMT on sale. BJ speaks highly of the Katana bits from MLCS and of Marc Sommerfelds bits. They are on my things to try list. I do like the idea that all Sommerfelds bits have the same shank length; this makes set ups easier. Since beginners have the tendancy to trash a couple of bits as they are learning I think it is better to replace a $5 bit than a $35 bit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

Just my 2 cents and one user review I do like the MLCS (Katana ) bits, most all the others have only one price bits and MLCS and Grizzy and Eagle American and Freud sales one for the home shop and one for the Pro.shop user, I would stack the Katana bits up with any of the other makers..they are that good but don't take my word for it buy just one and try it out..and get Free shipping (<MLCS) on any of them and that is a always plus for the bottom line now days..

The Sommerfelds bits are in the middle of the road now that his has dropped the CMT bits.


But that just my cents 


===


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## Paul Sonnichsen (Oct 3, 2010)

Is the Katana line of bits at MCLS the higher line or the cheaper line? Thanks Paul


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Kelwing2132 said:


> Is the Katana line of bits at MCLS the higher line or the cheaper line? Thanks Paul


They are touted as the better of the two and priced that way.

What I like about mlcs is the variety of profiles available.

If I see a profile that I intend use frequently in gray, I'll check and see if they carry Katana in the same profile and go that way.

A one job, seldom used or "unique" profile of their house brand is the way I go most of the time.

If I were looking to assemble a set to start up, I'd have no problem with a set of their house brand. I have and still use on occasion, a stick and cope set from MLCS that was in action making up doors back in '87


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