# Lazy Susan



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

We had our daughter and SIL over for dinner a couple of weeks ago and she asked if I would make her a Lazy Susan for her dinning room table similar to one that I had purchased in Queensland a couple of years ago.

SIL asked if she wanted it this Christmas or next Christmas....Cheeky sod..

This morning the weather was fine so I could work outdoors.

Fine and 65F.....ah, I love winter.

Clamped up a piece of MDF.

Cut circle half way through using my shop made circle jig.

Rough cut on band saw.

Flush trimmed on RT.

Routered profile on RT.

I plan to inlay a round tile in the centre and also inlay a florin near the edge.

Harry and I discussed this the other night.

Finish has not been decided yet, but as her table is very dark stain, I may go for high gloss black finish.

The first two shots are the bought one I am copying.

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Also Harry, the first cut with the jig resulted in the t-nut popping out.

Has this happened to you??

Some more shots....

James


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Looks like you are off to a good start James. Please continue with the pics.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Good job and write-up James. Keep the pics coming.


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## BearLeeAlive (Mar 22, 2010)

Looking good so far James, looking forward to seeing the final results.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> Also Harry, the first cut with the jig resulted in the t-nut popping out.
> 
> Has this happened to you??
> 
> ...


You've made an excellent start James. Regarding the Tee nuts, no I've never had that problem, possibly for three reasons:
I inserted the Tee nuts from the bottom
I made the centre hole a tight fit
I laminated both sides

I must confess to being puzzled James, why didn't you rout all the way through, the bandsaw should not have been needed at all.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

harrysin said:


> I must confess to being puzzled James, why didn't you rout all the way through, the bandsaw should not have been needed at all.


I agree with you, Harry. In my case, I have not yet purchase a bandsaw. It's on my to-do list.

Besides the way Harry shows it, other ways include:

1. Drill the pilot hole all the way through and route from opposite sides.

or

2. Route about 3/4 of the way through with a larger bit. Then flip the workpiece and replace the bit with a smaller diameter flush-trim bit. Then finish the rout. 

or

3. Carpet-tape the workpiece to a sacrificial hardboard. Set the depth stop to just a little beyond the thickness of the workpiece. One then routes both the workpiece and the top of the sacrificial hardboard. 

or

. . .


Cassandra


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Well done James....glad your shop made circle cutter worked ok...albeit you lost a T nut....keep up the good work and photos......AL


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Looking good, James! Keep up the good work. It's winter, and the grass is green? Those are the best kind! Finish that one, and You'll probably have to make a few more:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Dr.Zook said:


> Looks like you are off to a good start James. Please continue with the pics.


Weather turned rainy today so may have to get back to it next week end.

Still, I would rather some rain showers than 5" of snow... Do you get snow in your area, Dave?

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

xplorx4 said:


> Good job and write-up James. Keep the pics coming.


Thanks Jerry, will have to wait a week to go further.

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

BearLeeAlive said:


> Looking good so far James, looking forward to seeing the final results.


Thanks Jim.

It was good to be outdoors with power tools ready...

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Al Robins said:


> Well done James....glad your shop made circle cutter worked ok...albeit you lost a T nut....keep up the good work and photos......AL


Thanks Al,

I will do as Harry suggests and place the T-nuts on the bottom and cover with Formica. I picked up a half sheet from Mr Ply and Wood.

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

dutchman 46 said:


> Looking good, James! Keep up the good work. It's winter, and the grass is green? Those are the best kind! Finish that one, and You'll probably have to make a few more:


Yes Howard, The grass is green all year 'round.

At least it becomes dormant so I only have to mow once or twice a month.

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*band saw*

Cassandra and Harry,

As you have both alluded to the same thing, I will respond to both in the one reply. ( in a nice way, I hope)...:blink:



> I must confess to being puzzled James, why didn't you rout all the way through, the bandsaw should not have been needed at all.


No offence taken

We have saying in Australia,,"there is more than one way to skin a cat"
Apologies in advance to all cat lovers......

One of the great benefits of this forum is the number of mentors to choose from. And I like to try many ways to achieve an end.

I also source methods from DVD's, Magazines and the internet.

1. This has been a method I have seen used a number of times using a band saw or jig saw to rough cut to the line.

2. The cut from the band saw produces much less toxic dust than routing all the way through.

I did cut the groove in 2 small cuts.

3. I need to justify a $600 upgrade to my GMC 8" band saw. LOL
I bought the band saw last year and this is the first 
time I used it.:sarcastic: :sarcastic: :sarcastic:

4. I have routered all the way through on previous occasions.

5. I just wanted to do it this way..ok? ROTFL.

I mean this in a light hearted way..

However, Harry, you reply leads to another question (or 2).

Your pins appear to have a slight taper at the bottom. Is this correct?
doe this affect the fit?
How do you "I made the centre hole a tight fit" ? 

Thanks in advance

James


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Still said:


> We get a little snow every now and then!:dance3:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Dr.Zook said:


> We get a little snow every now and then!:dance3:


Yes, that's at least 5"


James


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

James looks like you have that circle cutting down pat! It's always good to use as many tools as possible on a single project. That way when you explain the process to the receiver, they will be extremely impressed that you are a master of so much equipment.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

CanuckGal said:


> James looks like you have that circle cutting down pat! It's always good to use as many tools as possible on a single project. That way when you explain the process to the receiver, they will be extremely impressed that you are a master of so much equipment.


Thanks Deb,

It is no use having all these toys if I don't use them when I get the chance.

James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Your pins appear to have a slight taper at the bottom. Is this correct?
doe this affect the fit?
How do you "I made the centre hole a tight fit" ?"

Because I have a metal lathe James, It's easy to put that taper on the pins, it makes insertion so much easier. I don't make it long enough to effect the fit.

The centre hole that we refer to is of course the one that the Tee nut goes into, I used an undersized drill requiring the Tee nut to be hammered all the way in until the four spikes were as far as they go..


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

"The centre hole that we refer to is of course the one that the Tee nut goes into, I used an undersized drill requiring the Tee nut to be hammered all the way in until the four spikes were as far as they go.."

Thanks Harry, I thought you were referring to the hole in the work piece the pin goes into.


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## hhqnz04 (Jul 3, 2010)

dutchman 46 said:


> Looking good, James! Keep up the good work. It's winter, and the grass is green? Those are the best kind! Finish that one, and You'll probably have to make a few more:


:dance3:
your guy is so clever!

-----------------------------
Huahai wood industry -- Chinese Premium manufacturer of plywood, blockboard, film face board, MDF, HPL and other building materials, with high quality and competitive price!
Any questions, pls feel free to contact me!

Contact: Howard Wang 
URL: Howard Wang | Facebook
E-mail: [email protected]


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*another day in the office....*

Well, yesterday (Saturday) and today started fine and clear so had time to get some more progress on this project.

1. purchased two 19mm pine boards.
2. Cut the boards to length 45cm and joined with pocket screms.
3. cut the base using circle cutting jig.
3. installed Harry's 'weapon of choice' 40mm bushing in Makita router ( used 1/4" cutter"
4.Using the piece I cut last time (MDF) as a template I cut a larger template in 1/2" ply . used larger template with guide bushing to cut the top.

5. checked offset...????

6. base and top cut out.

At this stage (11.45am Sunday) the threat of rain stopped play and I had to pack up.

It looks like it is clearing up again so I may get to rout the profile on the top.


:yes4:


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> Well, yesterday (Saturday) and today started fine and clear so had time to get some more progress on this project.
> 
> 1. purchased two 19mm pine boards.
> 2. Cut the boards to length 45cm and joined with pocket screms.
> ...


I really am impressed James, just one little thing that I would add to it and that is rout a tiny "V" groove along the joint and one at right angles to it, this will hide the joint and add some interest to the finished project, believe me!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Thanks for the advice Harry,

The joint you can see is on the base and this will either be covered by felt or inside the bearing.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Cassandra said:


> I agree with you, Harry. In my case, I have not yet purchase a bandsaw. It's on my to-do list.
> 
> Besides the way Harry shows it, other ways include:
> 
> ...


Hi Cassandra,

In deference to Harry and yourself....... 

This time I screwed the workpiece and template to a sacrificial piece of 1/2" ply and routed through to the sacrificial play in 3 cuts.

I am starting to like this template method......:yes4: :yes4:


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## Damir 66 (Dec 18, 2009)

harrysin said:


> I really am impressed James, just one little thing that I would add to it and that is rout a tiny "V" groove along the joint and one at right angles to it, this will hide the joint and add some interest to the finished project, believe me!


Very nice job.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Well done James....looks good....what are you going to finish it with?....stain/oil french polish???........AL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Al Robins said:


> Well done James....looks good....what are you going to finish it with?....stain/oil french polish???........AL



Al,

As my daughter has a dining set stained black, I have not yet made up my mind.

It could be a Feast-Watson Black stain or unsure: ) gloss black paint.

I will probably go for the stain..

I am getting the bearing next Saturday as well as some stain so will practice on some scrap (which is unusual for me....LOL)


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Good idea James with the scrap...if it doesnt work out its not a problem....also, did you say you used your Kregg jig to join the two boards? Never thought of that....I would have used my biscuit jointer, but who am I to argue....another function for a very inovative tool, Regards......AL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Al Robins said:


> Good idea James with the scrap...if it doesnt work out its not a problem....also, did you say you used your Kregg jig to join the two boards? Never thought of that....I would have used my biscuit jointer, but who am I to argue....another function for a very inovative tool, Regards......AL



See what I mean about the benefit of this forum.

I did not even think about my biscuit joiner. I originally joined the base boards using dowels and glue and guess what. One of the dowel holes was not deep enough for the boards to meet.... Serves me right for not trying a dry fit...

I ran out of glue so had to saw the base down the middle to separate the pieces and then used the Kregg jig to join the pieces.

With the Kregg, I could continue on without glue..


All part of the learning curve....


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

James, heres a small thought regarding the finish, I dont know if it will work or maybe you wont like the end result, but here goes.....take a scrap of the pine and sand it back to say 240 grit.then rub some Kiwi black shoe polish into it until the lustre is to your liking....then, get some Danish oil/linseed oil or similar and with 400/600 grit or whatever you can lay your hands on, rub in the oil with the "wet and dry" preferably across the grain. It will act as a wood filler for the exercise....If you use linseed oil you may have to add some turps to assist the drying time.....Wipe off any excess....If it is to your liking give the piece 3 or 4 more coats over 3 to 4 days and see the effect.I tried this with "tan" boot polish and it came up well....Regards.....AL


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

James really like the use of the kreg jig. Thanks for the idea usually you see a lazy susan being made of ply wood you did a great job.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Al Robins said:


> James, heres a small thought regarding the finish, I dont know if it will work or maybe you wont like the end result, but here goes.....take a scrap of the pine and sand it back to say 240 grit.then rub some Kiwi black shoe polish into it until the lustre is to your liking....then, get some Danish oil/linseed oil or similar and with 400/600 grit or whatever you can lay your hands on, rub in the oil with the "wet and dry" preferably across the grain. It will act as a wood filler for the exercise....If you use linseed oil you may have to add some turps to assist the drying time.....Wipe off any excess....If it is to your liking give the piece 3 or 4 more coats over 3 to 4 days and see the effect.I tried this with "tan" boot polish and it came up well....Regards.....AL



I have all those ingredients, Al.

I shall give that a trial...


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Glenmore said:


> James really like the use of the kreg jig. Thanks for the idea usually you see a lazy susan being made of ply wood you did a great job.


Glenmore,

My first attempt was in MDF not ply.

I would have thought the effort in hiding the ply edge, plus risk of chip out, would make ply a poor choice.

Also, I want the grain to show through if I can.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

James, I've yet to see stained Pine that doesn't look like stained Pine! I would use several coats of glass black followed by a couple of coats of high gloss clear, the result will be like Chinese lacquer.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

After having a good think and missing the point re the ply....Harrys idea would probably be the best value for money.........AL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Al Robins said:


> James, heres a small thought regarding the finish, I dont know if it will work or maybe you wont like the end result, but here goes.....take a scrap of the pine and sand it back to say 240 grit.then rub some Kiwi black shoe polish into it until the lustre is to your liking....then, get some Danish oil/linseed oil or similar and with 400/600 grit or whatever you can lay your hands on, rub in the oil with the "wet and dry" preferably across the grain. It will act as a wood filler for the exercise....If you use linseed oil you may have to add some turps to assist the drying time.....Wipe off any excess....If it is to your liking give the piece 3 or 4 more coats over 3 to 4 days and see the effect.I tried this with "tan" boot polish and it came up well....Regards.....AL



Al,

are you talking about the liquid polish in a bottle or the normal shoe polish in the tin?


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

James...yes, the polish in the tin worked ok for me, but just try it on the scrap first........I know I'm getting off track, but just came back from the Community Shed here and a young lady was doing up a couple of 1950ish kitchen chairs....all sanded and was using the Tung oil as she likes a "pale" wood finish with low sheen....l, the chair came up very well....the back was around 5 to 7 ply and the legs and rails were solid timber, rubbed in with 400 wet and dry so as to fill the grain, any excess was wiped off with a soft cloth.....She was going to repeat this four or five times over the next week........ Just another way to finish,......Regards....AL


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## Shopmania (Aug 19, 2010)

nice looking


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*My. how time flies*

Today I added the first coat of matt black paint to the timber.

I have found the bearing plate I bought is too stiff and will have to get another one with ball bearings.
The one I purchased seems to have a plastic ring as a bearing and it is very stiff.


The pictures show the fitting of this plate and the timber drying.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jw2170 said:


> Today I added the first coat of matt black paint to the timber.
> 
> I have found the bearing plate I bought is too stiff and will have to get another one with ball bearings.
> The one I purchased seems to have a plastic ring as a bearing and it is very stiff.
> ...


You're getting there James but tell me that you don't intend to leave it with a MATT black finish, that is more suited to chalk boards! I have used it in the past, but only as a base coat to be followed by a high gloss finish.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Some more fun in the shed*

Today, I went over to CarbaTec at Auburn to purchase a new lazy susan bearing with ball bearings not 'plastic' ring.

Once I finished the circle jig, I made a template to inlay a 6" round tile in the centre of the top.

These shots are the the template and a practice of routing the inlay hole for the tile.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

James you are really putting a lot of thought into this. It's looking great!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

James, I reckon that when you pay us a visit in a couple of weeks, you'll be showing ME how to do things. You really have come a long way in quite a short time.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice job James


But I'm not real sure why you would want to make a cir.jig when you have one of the best on hand ( The Rockler jig you just got )..
The last snapshot, is just some of the bits you can use with the big brass guide in place..
======





jw2170 said:


> Today, I went over to CarbaTec at Auburn to purchase a new lazy susan bearing with ball bearings not 'plastic' ring.
> 
> Once I finished the circle jig, I made a template to inlay a 6" round tile in the centre of the top.
> 
> These shots are the the template and a practice of routing the inlay hole for the tile.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

James...I agree with the posts above...that really is going to look good....more photos please.......AL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Al Robins said:


> James...I agree with the posts above...that really is going to look good....more photos please.......AL


Hi all,

Should be finished next week-end.

I am looking for ward to the Grand Final next Saturday? :nhl_checking: :nhl_checking: :nhl_checking:
Saimts V 'Pies LOL

At least my team got in......


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Nice job James
> 
> 
> But I'm not real sure why you would want to make a cir.jig when you have one of the best on hand ( The Rockler jig you just got )..
> ...


Thanks for those photos BJ.

I had already started on my 4th circle jig before I purchased the Rockler Jig.

I wanted that one just for ellipses/ovals   

Between Harry's jig, the Casper Jig, Bill Hyton's? jig, the OP Jig and one early model home made jig, I think I am right for circle jigs..........

Only time will tell.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Nice job James
> 
> 
> But I'm not real sure why you would want to make a cir.jig when you have one of the best on hand ( The Rockler jig you just got )..
> ...


BJ,

I just notice your 'rework' of the Rockler Jig.

I will try that later.

Also, did yours come with a 1" hole for the router or 1 1/4"?

Mine had a tight 1" so recut it with 1 1" forstner bit so I could use the OP brass set.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James

It came with the 1 1/2" hole, but I did make the plastic ring for the 1" PC type guide also..

Did you also see the cir.plastic part so it makes it a bit easyer to cir. with the jig.

=========



jw2170 said:


> BJ,
> 
> I just notice your 'rework' of the Rockler Jig.
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James

I know you didn't ask but I was in the shop to day using the Rockler jig and I took some snapshots showing the rework to the Rockler jig to make it a true cir.jig,it can be used for 4" to 36" cir.

The key to the rework is the tee nut and the extra long slot in the jig,,we talked about and how to get it longer, you will see a white plastic disk,it's needed to lift the router up so the tee nut can slip by the base of the router,it's only used when the cir. is smaller than 8" in diam., the disk must be stuck down in place with some DSCT tape,the big 1 1/2" guides have a 1/4" long stem, make two white disks one for the lift job and one for the magic disk use on oval picture frames,mirror, etc. all oval jigs have a built in error in them, that's to say they can't cut two ovals the same, that's when the magic disk comes into play..see the RWS video how to make a oval mirror the right way with the magic disk. 
The Woodworking Channel Video Library

If you need any help with the pictures below just ask. 

Just a note if you don't want to put any holes in your project,like a oval coffee table or a oval table top you can use the Vacuum Generator that can be fitted to your cross plate.

http://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/product_info.php?products_id=2536
http://store.workshopsupply.com/catalogue/product_info.php?products_id=2537


========


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi James
> 
> I know you didn't ask but I was in the shop to day using the Rockler jig and I took some snapshots showing the rework to the Rockler jig to make it a true cir.jig,it can be used for 4" to 36" cir.
> 
> ...



Thanks BJ,

When I return from Perth in 2 weeks I will have a closer look.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Do'h moment*

After we returned from Perth, we had the situation where our cat had to be put down , so have not done a lot on the Lazy Susan.

Last Saturday I routered the inlay for the centre tile.

Then had a Homer moment.

While I was routing the inlay I noticed a spark come from under the router.

Sparks from pine???

I found I had routered into one of the pocket hole screws.... Could be up for a new 1/4" bit.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*new paint job..*

Once I had the inlay routered out, I found i did not like the look of the surface.
(joint visible , marking lines etc)

I the decide to re-sand the top with the belt sender and palm sander.

then resprayed the top.

looks much better.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi James
> 
> I know you didn't ask but I was in the shop to day using the Rockler jig and I took some snapshots showing the rework to the Rockler jig to make it a true cir.jig,it can be used for 4" to 36" cir.
> 
> ...


Bob that's a great idea and beautifully made BUT (isn't there always a "but") why BUY a jig that requires major modification when making one from scratch is no bigger job and costs next to nothing.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

It's looking good after the re-sanding James but because, with changes in the weather, it's possible that in the future the joint may just show, I would be inclined to rout a fine V groove along the joint and another one at right angles, this would also take away the plainness. It's only a suggestion and I won't be offended if you carry on as you are.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Harry,

I sanded the top back with 40 grit (to remove the paint) and 80 grit on the belt sander then 120 grit on the palm sander.

I then had a much smoother surface with no join lines.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Bob that's a great idea and beautifully made BUT (isn't there always a "but") why BUY a jig that requires major modification when making one from scratch is no bigger job and costs next to nothing.


Harry,

I bought the Rockler jig so that I could cut a number of different sized ellipse templates.

I should be able to make a decent sized template and then smaller templates using a "doughnut" to increase the offset.

BJ's mods help to make smaller ellipses than normally allowed with the jig.




BTW has any one seen BJ...he has been quite for a few days??????


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

It's two jigs in one,, the oval and the cir.jig, I was lucky and got the one I have for 40.oo bucks on sale, one could make the cir,jig easy but the oval part is very tricky,It's hard to see it in the snap shot ,but the cross plate is a hard one to make it right, I started to make one and I said for 40.oo bucks it's not worth the time after all how many times do you make big ovals and big cir. but I like to have the right tools on hand when I need them..

The easy re-work on the jig makes it easy to use for the smaller cir.and ovals.

========




harrysin said:


> Bob that's a great idea and beautifully made BUT (isn't there always a "but") why BUY a jig that requires major modification when making one from scratch is no bigger job and costs next to nothing.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob, I take back what I said, I didn't realise that it also made ovals which, as you say, are not easy to do. How about a few shots to show me how it works.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Here's one or two shots 

All oval jigs have a error that's built into them and that's when the magic rings comes into play to take that the error out of the jig..one oval no error two ovals error comes into play.
You can see it in the snapshot below of the oval ring , but you must look real hard it to see the error.. the bigger the oval is the bigger the error.. 

You can see the magic ring on the 
The Woodworking Channel Video Library
on the video clip on making mirrors (RWS video )

=========



harrysin said:


> Bob, I take back what I said, I didn't realise that it also made ovals which, as you say, are not easy to do. How about a few shots to show me how it works.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Ran out of room hahahahahahaha

========


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*New time record set.......*

Well, this weekend I finally finished the Lazy Susan (Mk4) - (photos and tale to follow on that).

Presented to my Daughter on Boxing Day (only 1 day late)

She is very pleased.

Mk4 is made from 12mm MDF and the outer circle AND the inner inlay are both cut with the circle jig.

I applied 2 coats mat black, 2 coats gloss black, 2 coats clear finish and then furniture paste.

Warned SIL not to drop any Peri-Peri sauce on it....LOL


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

That turned out very nice James! I can see why she was so pleased.


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Well done James...that looks really good...and..good instructions too.........AL


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Al Robins said:


> Well done James...that looks really good...and..good instructions too.........AL



Al,

Most of the instructions came from 'Uncle Harry'.

We had many skype discussions over the finish.:lol:

If it was not for the guys (oops and gals) on the forum I would still be looking at an
8mm Ozito router in a box....


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Haha...yer James, point taken....still, it will help somebody else so its all part of the deal....


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Well James, the final result made it all worth while and the learning curve was priceless. I'll bet that given good weather to work outdoors, other than the finish, you would have a second one completed in less than a weekend.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Mark 1*

I said in an earlier post that the Lazy Susan I gave to my Daughter was the Mk 4.

This is what happened to Mk1.

Attached is a photo of the top and the template I used to rout the inlay for the tile.

I did not have the template centered so that the inlay was way off centre.

I have saved the top for rescue at a later date. What I plan to do is to use the circle jig to rout a timber insert and use this to find the cente of the inlay. Using that 'center' i will the re-cut the outside edge.

Does that make sense?


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## 01stairguy (Apr 18, 2010)

nice wood work in the back ground! congrats,


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

James, it's easy to find the centre of the rebate by measuring, drill a 1/4"hole which will be hidden by the tile, set your circle jig into the hole and rout around the outside, leaving it concentric with the rebate.


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## Muddler (Feb 21, 2009)

dutchman 46 said:


> Looking good, James! Keep up the good work. It's winter, and the grass is green? Those are the best kind! Finish that one, and You'll probably have to make a few more:


Oh James---you are carrying on a bit about the weather.

Are you not aware that we have THE BEST weather in Hobart.
I

p.s. I regard your work as something we should all aspire to.

It is honest.
Regards from the Tropical South


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

ronbooth said:


> Oh James---you are carrying on a bit about the weather.
> 
> Are you not aware that we have THE BEST weather in Hobart.
> I
> ...


Yes, Ron, we cannot complain about this beautiful Autumn weather at the moment.

I hope that high hangs around until after Easter.

Our friends up North cannot understand why we still have green grass in winter....

Thanks for the vote of confidence, but I am well down on the list when it comes to expertise on the forum.


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