# Porter-Cable dovetail jig with craftsman router



## atmartin23 (Aug 31, 2009)

I am thinking of getting the 4212 portercable dovetail jig. unfortunately i have the craftsman professional router (26620). I am worried the bushings that come with the jig will not fit the router. what size hole in the sub-base is needed for this bushing?


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## atmartin23 (Aug 31, 2009)

If no one else has ever run into this problem...i may just make my own sub-base out of acrylic. since i have a craftsman, it wouldn't be the first time.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Drew,

Get out your tape measure. If the base has a 1-3/16" hole with a 1-3/8" counterbore (drilled partway through the plate, from the collet side) it will take the Porter-Cable bushing. They're not the only bushings in industry but it's a fairly standard one.

If not, as you say, you can select any of the plates on the market and mount your own. They start at under $20, with the center predrilled for the guide bushing (or bush, as our folks "across the pond" like to call them). 

Or make your own... It is important that the bushing be accurately centered on the bit.


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## atmartin23 (Aug 31, 2009)

Thanks Jim

Looking at some other bushings i figured the industry standard was 1 3/16". My craftsman is 1 1/4". So i guess i will be fabricating my own. Anyone suggest a good bushing set?...one with a centering cone?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Amazon.com: Milescraft 1201 Base Plate / Bushing Set for Routers: Home Improvement
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atmartin23 said:


> Thanks Jim
> 
> Looking at some other bushings i figured the industry standard was 1 3/16". My craftsman is 1 1/4". So i guess i will be fabricating my own. Anyone suggest a good bushing set?...one with a centering cone?


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## atmartin23 (Aug 31, 2009)

Hey Bob,

I've looked into those bushings in the past. A couple of the reviews state that they melt since the bushing is plastic. I was thinking brass would be a better option.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi DREW

Step up to the new type, it's bit more in money but they have a the brass guides in place that takes error out about melting the bushing 
Plus you can use the brass guides you now have on hand with the adapter that it comes with it.

Amazon.com: Turnlock Baseplate and Metal Bushing Set: Home Improvement

Router Forums
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## atmartin23 (Aug 31, 2009)

So as far as rigidity; these turn-locks are pretty good? I would think being made out of plastic there would be some slop/flex in them. I do like these better with the metal bushing. The set says it comes with an adapter to use standard metal bushings. Again, i am assuming a standard metal bushing requires a 1 3/16" thru hole, yes? The craftsman bushings need a 1 1/4 thru hole.


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## wvsuperdave (Nov 9, 2009)

You will need a Porter Cable plate and BITS. PC wants you to buy all there stuff. Just wish they had a booklet to show you how to use it. Yes there are others that make PC bits but they must have PC compatible on them.


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## Echonav (Sep 17, 2009)

Suggest you consider buying one of the newer Sears Routers like the model 17542 (2HP variable speed). It's base is compatible with Porter Cable bushings, it is well balances, and it probably weighs quite a bit less than your Professional Router. You probably don't want to use a big heavy router when cutting dovetails on a dovetail jig. I use my 17542 as a second router when cutting pins and tails. It's a sweet little router and you can pick one up at Sears for about $70 on sale. Check it out at link below....

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...Power+Tools&sName=Routers+&+Laminate+Trimmers


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

atmartin23 said:


> Hey Bob,
> 
> I've looked into those bushings in the past. A couple of the reviews state that they melt since the bushing is plastic. I was thinking brass would be a better option.


+1 On the milescraft setup. I've got a small craftsman router set up just for dovetails. Works great.:dance3:
I am curious how those reviewers managed to get nylon filled stuff to melt, generally takes better than 200 F.  Unless they got the bit tangled up with the bushing and then instead of a melted bushing, they would then have a mangled bushing AND a ruined or severely wounded bit. :laugh:


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## nunami9 (Oct 27, 2009)

Topic looks well covered but I'll chime in since I've been through this. I have a Hitachi router and bought a craftsman dovetail template off craigslist. I already had some bushings and they wouldnt work with the template. then I bought some craftsman bushings and they wouldnt work with the bits. I bought the craftman dovetail bit and for some reason it wouldnt sit deep enough in the router to property cut the wood without striking the bushing. After doing some research, it looks like Craftsman makes everything about 1/16" off from 'standard' so you have to buy all their stuff. 

wont make that mistake again....


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

nunami9 said:


> Topic looks well covered but I'll chime in since I've been through this. I have a Hitachi router and bought a craftsman dovetail template off craigslist. I already had some bushings and they wouldnt work with the template. then I bought some craftsman bushings and they wouldnt work with the bits. I bought the craftman dovetail bit and for some reason it wouldnt sit deep enough in the router to property cut the wood without striking the bushing. After doing some research, it looks like Craftsman makes everything about 1/16" off from 'standard' so you have to buy all their stuff.
> 
> wont make that mistake again....


Sounds familiar... same thing put me off Craftsman some 20 years ago..
Anyway, are you sure you got the right dovetail bit? Difference from 8 degree to 14 degree is significant. Also, what is contacting the bushing, the bit cutters or the collet nut? I think the milescraft system would go a long ways to getting you a workable system. The only thing I really don't care for about the milescraft system is the base is significantly larger.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI John

" The only thing I really don't care for about the milescraft system is the base is significantly larger"

That's when the hack saw comes into play,,just cut off some of the MilesCraft base plate so it's flat on one side..then just mark it for the same jig.. or if you are lucky to have a extra router you can just leave it on the same router all the time.. sq. base plates are better than round ones. 

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jschaben said:


> Sounds familiar... same thing put me off Craftsman some 20 years ago..
> Anyway, are you sure you got the right dovetail bit? Difference from 8 degree to 14 degree is significant. Also, what is contacting the bushing, the bit cutters or the collet nut? I think the milescraft system would go a long ways to getting you a workable system. The only thing I really don't care for about the milescraft system is the base is significantly larger.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> HI John
> 
> " The only thing I really don't care for about the milescraft system is the base is significantly larger"
> 
> ...


HI Bob 
That IS my extra router. Set up and centered for the DT jig. The thing is such a pain to set depth on I doubt I'll ever use it for anything else now that it's finally right. :yes4:


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## nunami9 (Oct 27, 2009)

jschaben said:


> Sounds familiar... same thing put me off Craftsman some 20 years ago..
> what is contacting the bushing, the bit cutters or the collet nut?.


It was a while ago but now that I think about it, it seems like the collet nut was striking the bushing.


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## atmartin23 (Aug 31, 2009)

Thanks for the input guys! i ended up with the PC 4212 DT jig. Love it! the bushings it came with fit in the Milescraft base if you buy the right set (one of the sets has a turnlock fitting for standard bushings). I found an "advanced" set of instructions on the PC jig. it appears you do not need to use PC bits. To make it work, your diameter of your dovetail plus the diameter of your flute bit has to be 15/16. You still need a 7 deg dovetail bit, however, if you buy a 3/4 dovetail and a 3/16 flute, the resulting joint should fit. I haven't tried it yet. If you do let me know.


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

wvsuperdave said:


> You will need a Porter Cable plate and BITS. PC wants you to buy all there stuff. Just wish they had a booklet to show you how to use it. Yes there are others that make PC bits but they must have PC compatible on them.


As already pointed out:

The sum of the bit diameters (measured at their widest point) must be 15/16". And the bit angle is 7 degrees. Other than that, you are NOT locked into their stock bit sizes. This goes for the dovetail joints cut in two steps. For the 1/2 blind, one-pass method I think you are locked into the 17/32" 7 degree bit due to the geometry of the template. Could be wrong about that part.

Whiteside, Eagle and I think MLCS all have compatible bits in their catalogs.

As to the collars, only three things are important:
1) That the bit clear the inside diameter (duh)
2) That the outside diameter fit snugly into the "teeth" of the template. Sorry, I don't remember the collar sizes off hand.
3) You get the best results when the collar is centered on the router bit. Invest in or make a centering jig/cone for the router. 

If you are going to use the stock collars that come with the PC4212 or even brass ones, I'd also suggest a trip to the hardware store plumbing section to find a wave washer that fits the threaded portion of the collar. Reduce the chance of that nut vibrating loose. Bad business that.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

The PC manual says:

Through Dovetails

Through Dovetail & Box Joint Template
17/32", 7 degree Dovetail bit # 43777PC
3/4" O.D. Template Guide, # 42020 (with dovetail bit)
5/8" O.D. Template Guide, # 42027 (with straight bit)


Half-Blind Dovetails

Half-blind Dovetail Template
17/32", 7 degree Dovetail bit #43776PC
3/4 O.D. Template guide, #42040

If you use a bit that's not recommended with the PC jig you might have problems making the joint fit right. Their might be other companies that make a bit for the PC jig, but I always buy the recommended PC brand so there are no problems. 

The PC jig uses 1" spacing. To center the joint on your stock the widths will be 1" + 1/4" (1-1/4", 2-1/4", 3-1/4", 4-1/4" ect). For example a 5" high drawer opening would need a 4-1/4" drawer height to end up with half pins on top & bottom of your joint. To make the height any different you will end up with a joint that is off center.

Some other jigs use a 7/8" spacing.

Here is a picture of a drawer that is 4-1/4" H for a 5" opening with undermount soft close sides.


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## atmartin23 (Aug 31, 2009)

Just so there is no more confusion: 
4212 Porter-Cable 12'' Dovetail Jig - Rockler Woodworking Tools
If you go to this link and click "more INfo" then open the supplemental manual (written by PC); page 14 states the usage of other size bits for thru dovetails only (does not work for half blinds since they are a single step operation). Again, as long as the sum of the bits equal 15/16" and the dovetail angle is 7 deg, it will work


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