# Removing springs from a Bosch 1617EVSPK



## sher622 (Mar 28, 2009)

I found some posts about removing springs, but couldn't find anything about removing springs specifically from my Bosch. I am making a table now and the top is finished and temporarily mounted to help build the cabinet. After only making a few cuts, I realize that I HAVE to remove the springs to keep my sanity and keep from using more scrap in test cuts than my project, HELP!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jeff

Here's one, they don't list the Bosch but most are just about the same on many routers, it may help 

Router Workshop: Spring Removal

With luck Mike will see your Post, I think he as remove his spring from his Bosch..for his OP table setup..you can always PM him or send a email and get some help from him..
Router Forums - View Profile: Mike

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sher622 said:


> I found some posts about removing springs, but couldn't find anything about removing springs specifically from my Bosch. I am making a table now and the top is finished and temporarily mounted to help build the cabinet. After only making a few cuts, I realize that I HAVE to remove the springs to keep my sanity and keep from using more scrap in test cuts than my project, HELP!!


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

forgive me if im off base, but doesnt the 1617 evspk come with a fixed base that could be mounted to the table and leave the plunge for freehand work? im just asking?


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I thought the same thing Levon, why not use the fixed base for the table, just a thought!!


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## sher622 (Mar 28, 2009)

Levon, yes it does have a fixed base. And I have a knob for the micro adjust, but I was thinking it would be tougher on bit changes and times that require moving the height more than a half an inch or so. I was really using the plunge base as a temporary solution anyway. I just built the top and have it temporarily mounted while I build the cabinet. I was planning on making or buying a lift. I think I came up with a good design to build a lift that can be raised with a screw for micro adjustments and also a quick release for bit changes. I'll post some pics if I get it working.
I digress... I suppose I'll try the fixed base and see how I like it. I've been making some rail and stile panels and the adjustments are really difficult to get perfect, even using the micro adjust on the plunge base.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Jeff, mounting the fixed base is the way to go. Remove the wooden knobs and you get more room and easier adjustments. The 1617 has 3 rough adjustments to get you close then the adjuster takes over. You will find you do not need a lift. It is easier to pop the mounting plate out of the table, change your bit, make the height adjustment and drop it back into place. I guarantee this is faster than any lift on the market. (And you get to spend all that money you save on bits!)


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## sher622 (Mar 28, 2009)

*Final setup*

Thanks to all for recommending the fixed base and insisting it is the best way to go. My biggest hangup was that I couldn't do fine adjustments from above the table. I really didn't want to have to move the fence, only to have to reset it. Well, here's what I finally ended up with.
The materials I bought were:
3/16 hex drive threaded screw (didn't really care what the length or size/threads are) Actually I bought a short one to keep the possibility of the screw getting knocked off.
3/16 hex wrench
total cost was about $3
Photo 1 and 2: So I used a 5/16 drill bit and drilled out the hole that happened to already be started in the base directly above(with the base upside down) the fine adjustment screw.
Photo 3: I used a bit of J.B. Weld to attach the threaded screw to the bottom side of the fine adjustment screw with the Hex opening toward the base. I got it centered as good as I could, but lets realize that it really isn't imperative that this be exactly centered to the thousanth of an inch.
After drying overnight, I drilled the new holes in the base to mount the fixed base. Then using the same 5/16" bit, I drilled a hole to match the one in the base for the wrench to fit through. You can barely see the hole in the top in photo 4.
Photo 5: Now, to use it, I still have to get under the table, which I can do from the front to unlock the cam-lock, then each turn of the wrench is 1/16" from above the table. When the adjustment is done, lock the base and I'm off.
I forgot to mention, I did take off the wooden knobs.
I'm still finishing the cabinet to the router table, so I'll post those photos later.


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## rolanddds (May 4, 2009)

Mike... Do you use the OP set up as Bob thought? But your using a fixed base and not a plunge attahed to the insert, right? If you were using the plunge, then I assume you would remove the springs?

Tom


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Nice, creative solution, Jeff. Don't let Bosch in on that, though. They make an above table, adjustable fixed base, the RA1165. 
Actually, all *new* 1617EVS PK kits come with the above table adjustable base. I use this same base in my table and it works out well. Looking forward to the pics of your finished table.


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## sher622 (Mar 28, 2009)

I saw that on some demo or a show where they adjusted that base through the plate. I bought my router about 3 years ago, and I don't think that base existed at the time.


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