# Finishers wanted!



## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

What are we going to do with this?

I enjoy the rush of creating but hate the task of finishing. Everything I finish, I end up spraying it with varathane. Now this is getting a little boring, Some ideas for the finish would be great.

It is made of solid oak frame, drawer front, and top. The panels are 3/16" oak vaneer. In the drawer front I laminated a piece of mahogany. Now the door has a laminted piece of Butternut. I have no idea why I did it, just to see what it would look like. 

Remember I am a poor (well lazy) finisher. Take it easy on me. 

This is a night stand for our bedroom.

Thanks 
John


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## Rolf Maxa (Feb 8, 2005)

Very nice night stand John. I found that using a gel stain of whatever color suits you and several coats of wipe on ployurethane works for me, and it's easy. You'll need to sand in between coats of the ploy.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Nice job on the night stand cabinet,,, may I suggest a pair of drawer guides b/4 you put the finish on it, it looks like you may have the room for them..the white ones should fit...you have the face frame to hold them..



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Check twice! said:


> What are we going to do with this?
> 
> I enjoy the rush of creating but hate the task of finishing. Everything I finish, I end up spraying it with varathane. Now this is getting a little boring, Some ideas for the finish would be great.
> 
> ...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

If you want a softer finish that looks hand rubbed you might try Watco danish oil. You can buy this tinted or clear. It is easy to apply and does not have the plastic look so many finishes do. I suggest trying some on a test piece of your wood before applying it to your project. It should serve well in a bedroom, but this finish is a poor choice for wet areas or where impacts are expected.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You've done such a lovely job and it's all pretty well an even colour that I would either spray low sheen lacquer or three coats of Danish oil finished with a rub down with 0000 wire wool lubricated with wax polish. either of these finishes will darken the colour and show off the grain.
As for drawer slides, they are my choice but I doubt that there is room. In my early days I glued a strip of laminate under each side.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Just a note about " drawer slides " you have the tool to get them to fit , it's the router table,, blind dado slots to hold the guides/slides..

I have from time to time made a erorr making the drawer to big, and I'm lazzy so I didn't want to make a new drawer and the dado slot did the job just fine..

You can also just put in one on the bottom side of the drawer,that works well also and you can make that one with some hardwood...

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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

What do you want the final finish to look like ?. Stained (pigment,dye) top coat(varnish,oil,oil-varnish, lacquer, or one of my favorites shellac. Is that red oak ?.
A little more info will help.

Regards

Jerry


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Bob
I used a little different system, I hope the photos can explain better than me. I seen it somewhere when i was reading, thought "that looks easy. It did work quite well as you see the drawer in the first photo I posted. I have never tried the way you explained either,,, I guess the next drawer will get a slide like you posted. I think that is a good concept. (no drop at all, sweet)

Finishing.
Now the finish, I really like oak, I have built a china cabinet, a portable sewing machine table, chess boards, etc all with Oak. It is a little tricky to work with but I like it. the photos Of these pieces all show a plain varathane spray finish. It looks ok but getting boring. I was kinda hoping members would say what they would do if they were finishing it, and I would steal their idea.  I told you I dislike finishing.

I would like the grain to stand out and the natural beauty enhanced with a little light color. I got spunky on the last piece and put a light oak stain and it did nothing to speak of. I looking to make it a little darker and still alow the beauty of the wood show through. Asking a lot huh!

Thanks for replies I bought the hinges, knob, and handle today. (knob and handle are ...you guessed it oak)

Thanks
John


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

During the build I ran into a problem on one of the legs, a soft sappy spot and not thinking I put it at the bottom not the inside top (hidden). The three photos show how I tried to repair a human error. Maybe someone may be able to use it sometime.

Thanks 
John


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

One method would be to fill the grain with a darker grain filler,after completely dry apply a light coat of shellac then toner and top coat. If this is too much apply a coat of fresh orange shellac and see how you like that. Varathane is a brand name they make several products.

Jerry


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI John

You did a great repair job on the leg , here's one more way to repair that type of rip out . but I do like to use the dovetail bit it holds better...when you slip in the dovetail spline in place ..

http://www.routerforums.com/email-router-tips-members-only/2390-repairing-router-chipout.html

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Check twice! said:


> During the build I ran into a problem on one of the legs, a soft sappy spot and not thinking I put it at the bottom not the inside top (hidden). The three photos show how I tried to repair a human error. Maybe someone may be able to use it sometime.
> 
> Thanks
> John


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

John, if it's oak you could try fuming it with ammonia. It gives a slight greenish tinge to the wood without raising the grain (so no rubbing down). Then a clear coat over the top. Try it on a piece of scrap to see the result. Make a tent out of plastic sheet on a frame, put a bowl full of domestic ammonia in with the piece and monitor it for colour change.


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Bob

That is a neat way to repair chip out from my router. When using oak, even with the slower router speed and a slow feed I get chip out at times. That will make my repairs easier, I know I will get them.  Thanks

Geordie

I like the idea of fuming, it falls under "simple" and the clear spray I have. I seen some posts once about fuming and never really paid any attention to them. This would be something new and worth a shot. I will test and if it looks ok, i'm game. I have mahogony and butternut pieces will this affect them?

Harry/Mike
My second choice would be the Danish oil. I have some tung oil I purchased about a year ago not opened, what would this do?

Thanks everyone, Between the new build and the finish job, I have my hands full. I want to put this piece to bed and move on. I will post the finished look, I am even excited, to see something different.

Once again I thank you for your replies. Maybe this finishing will be painless,,,not. 

Thanks
John


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

I would like a favor from you 

Put this project to one side and guitar and get the CNC machine done  


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi John
> 
> I would like a favor from you
> 
> ...


I know it is crazy, but the son and I work like this. We leave our options open. 

We painted the pieces with primer last night and Scott finished them today. We are going to start the build tonight.  

I will post on the other thread
Thanks
John


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

John. I'm not sure what fuming would do to mahogany or butternut as I've only ever tried it on oak. I think it's something to do with the level of tannins in the wood (?). Maybe Jerry (Mayfield) can shed more light. The thing to do is try it scraps of all the woods to see the results.


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Happy Fourth of July, to all members in the USA. Have a great holiday weekend. Independance Day is a proud time, and a time to reflect on the accomplishments of your great country.

John

You may want to move this post but it is 5:15 am and on my way to work.


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

nzgeordie said:


> John. I'm not sure what fuming would do to mahogany or butternut as I've only ever tried it on oak. I think it's something to do with the level of tannins in the wood (?). Maybe Jerry (Mayfield) can shed more light. The thing to do is try it scraps of all the woods to see the results.


We are going to find out, I am giving it a shot over the weekend. I will post.
I love a learning experience. 

John


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

The ammonia used around 1900 was about 50% -very corrosive - the strongest normally available from a chemical supply co. is about 26% still very dangerous. Household ammonia is about 5% and while it works,after a fashion, it takes quite a while(days) and will not get as dark as the stronger solutions. Although I have used chemicals to color wood I can find no advantage,to out weigh the (known) risks and have not used any in many years. Any of these effects can be duplicated with modern finishing techniques much more safely. Give this a lot of thought before you decide to try it.

regards
Jerry


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Thanks Jerry,

I will do some research, for sure. Years ago, I was scrubbing a floor and mixed javex and (not knowing) a cleaner with amonia. The gas that came off that was an experience I do not want again. That has to be 30 - 35 year ago. 

Now you see why I dislike finishing,  too many options. I was going to go out and buy some house hold amonia,,,, maybe I will read first.

Thanks, 
John


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

Oak,butternut(white walnut)and mahogany are easy woods to finish they take any kind of stain well and most top coats. I hope you are not going to try and make these three look alike.

Jerry


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

I did my first stained piece, it just has stain but (Rose wood) I think I kinda like stain. I might have chosen a lighter stain, a little dark for me. The better half and Scott chose the color.

Do I lightly sand before the varathane goes on or after the first coat of varathane.? I am going to brush it. 

Bob the CNC router has not taken a back est.  See it behind, table.

Have a great day
John


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

Don' sand before you apply a top coat and if you apply more coats of finish in less than 24 hours it is only necessary to sand for dust settling or other oopsies.

Jerry


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Here is the story, (and I am sticking to it) I did strange things to this poor table. 

The Rosewood stain was sanded off and I left the grain dark, showing up nicely. I was not happy with the dark finish I originally got from just the Rosewood. After a ton of sanding I got a nice even finish with the grain much darker than the rest. I then put two coats of peacan to give it some life, or a identity of it's own.

This is what it looks like ready to urathane. I guess I am more a person who likes the natural wood, but it did turn out OK, so say the familhy.

The next post on this will have the finished table.

John


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

I don't think I understand- Likes the natural wood -with two coats of stain and waiting to apply urathane- sorry but this doesn't sound like the natural wood to me.

Regards

Jerry


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

Jerry

I understand what you are saying, I guess I should have worded it "with a clear finish, no stain", I have never used a stain before and this was my first go at staining. 

I have a dresser I made 30 something years ago out of solid pine with just a clear finish. Basically everthing I finish is a clear coat only.

My son always tells me "be specific Dad, I can't read your mind", I guess this applies here.  

Thanks Jerry 

John


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

I think I understand now.

Regards

Jerry


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## Check twice! (Feb 11, 2008)

This puppy is done. 

Personally I am not happy with the finished look. I made it dark,,,, was not happy,,,,, I sanded it leaving the grain,,,, was a little better,,,,,,,but me and my old habbits like a clear finish. 

It was an adventure and I want to thank everyone for their comments and suggestions. I think this finishing thing has a lot of curves and angles, maybe somehting I will put in the closet for now. 

Thanks to all
John


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Well John,

It looks pretty darned good to me.

If this is a project you didn't like the finished look of, imagine how awesome are the ones that you do like. You're quite the craftsman.

Ed......


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