# Trim Profiles and Arrangements



## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

The wife and I can't seem to find any base, casing, crown, etc trim we are wowed over, unless it's really expensive, so I'm just going to make our own out of poplar, but need some general guidelines when chosing profiles and dimensions. FWIW, we have eliminated casing and base thinner than 3/4, and shorter than or equal to 3.25".

Questions follow:

1) Are there general rules of thumb for chosing and differentiating profiles for base, casing, window sills, chair rail, base cap, crown, etc?

2) Are there general rules of thumb of when or when not to use base cap?

3) Are there general rules of thumb of choosing height of base and crown...per room dimensions? per each other? per other furniture or architecture in the room?

Basically I have a hard time picturing the big picture without the product installed, and do not want to spend a bunch of cash and time, and then stand back and go WHOA?!! Such "general guidelines" I'm looking for would be analagous to saying the stiles and rails on cabinet doors can typically vary between 1.5-2.5" for aesthetics and practicality...

I've started looking at profile bits on Amazon, and was overwhelmed with all the choices, hence the general guideline questions. To cut the trim I'll probably get Woodcraft's black Friday Freud router deal, or find the big PC on sale. This choice stemming from from what I've gathered so far- many shop setups typically include a big VS workhorse for under the table. Open for suggestions there too.

Thanks!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi DJ

Look at the set below and the other bit also ,it may wow you..

2 pc 1/2" SH 5-1/2" Wide Crown Molding Router Bit Set - eBay (item 130455108250 end time Nov-21-10 09:57:03 PST)

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-Shank-...455110066?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item1e5fbb01b2


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mtnmaniac said:


> The wife and I can't seem to find any base, casing, crown, etc trim we are wowed over, unless it's really expensive, so I'm just going to make our own out of poplar, but need some general guidelines when chosing profiles and dimensions. FWIW, we have eliminated casing and base thinner than 3/4, and shorter than or equal to 3.25".
> 
> Questions follow:
> 
> ...


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi DJ
> 
> Look at the set below and the other bit also ,it may wow you..
> 
> ...


Thanks! That sure generates a nice lookin piece of crown! Is the two halves picture for drawing purposes, or can they work one solid piece of 1x6? Now, is it generally good practice to match crown profile to base? If so, how? Also, how do those particular bits last in hardwood? I've got a few hundred feet of poplar to carve.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi DJ

It can be 6" or any size you want to make it, I don't know how long they will last I have only made about 26 ft. but they are still sharp, I also use poplar...
You want to take a look at the link below and the bit I used, it's also a tall one..

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/23364-mitered-raised-panel-doors.html

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mtnmaniac said:


> Thanks! That sure generates a nice lookin piece of crown! Is the two halves picture for drawing purposes, or can they work one solid piece of 1x6? Now, is it generally good practice to match crown profile to base? If so, how? Also, how do those particular bits last in hardwood? I've got a few hundred feet of poplar to carve.


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi DJ
> 
> It can be 6" or any size you want to make it, I don't know how long they will last I have only made about 26 ft. but they are still sharp, I also use poplar...
> You want to take a look at the link below and the bit I used, it's also a tall one..
> ...


Thanks BJ!


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## Mark Sternberg (Jan 16, 2010)

I applaud you for wanting to make your own trim. It can be rewarding coming up with new profiles. I think that there is no set rule as to what trim you can use and where. I would look at pictures to get ideas and then take it from there before you get too deep into it.

One thing you want to consider if you are making your own casing and base is will the base tie into the casing without any difference in thickness or end grains showing?

I am not sure how experienced you are making moldings with a router table but one of the big downfalls of doing this is you must have a constant feed when you are pushing the material through. If you don't you will either get a chatter mark, or a burn mark when you stop for a split second to reposition your grip.

Things that will help is make sure you have plenty of feather boards holding the material to the cutter both vertical and horizontal. This will help and if you are running long pieces get help to pull the the pieces as you push for a constant feed.

Have fun, good luck and show us what you ended up with.


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## mtnmaniac (Aug 24, 2010)

Mark Sternberg said:


> I applaud you for wanting to make your own trim. It can be rewarding coming up with new profiles. I think that there is no set rule as to what trim you can use and where. I would look at pictures to get ideas and then take it from there before you get too deep into it.
> 
> One thing you want to consider if you are making your own casing and base is will the base tie into the casing without any difference in thickness or end grains showing?
> 
> ...


Excellent points!...Thank much! This remodel is big, so when it's a little further along, I'll post some picks for sure. Flooring is in. Working on boxed newells and researching interior door building (to replace the cardboard veneer doors) currently.

Speaking of door building. I found this very informative link: Building an Interior Door: Part One - The Frame - Fine Woodworking 
Is there a reason floating tenons are used instead of just cutting similar tenons on each end of the rails? Is this a stability thing? Any other comments or additions on this guys methods?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

No feather boards needed with the device below if you are going to run few hundred feet..this device can be mounted vert. or horz.

Baby Power Feeder
G4173 Baby Power Feeder 


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