# Oak Park Beveled Jointer Jig



## tpyke (Nov 11, 2007)

I bought a few E-plans from Oak Park. They are all pretty simple and straight forward to understand. I am only having one problem, with the heart waste basket plan...I don't know if they omitted something in the plan or if I missed something (even though I re-read the plan twice looking for this...), but they say: "Follow plans to make a bevel jointer fence". They don't give you plans to make the jointer though. They show you this picture, where you can see that the outfeed is not the same width as the in feed, but there are no measures:









Can anyone give me a bit more insight on building a jig like this?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Typically, I think you'd want the "fence" to have an over-hang on your table top so as to clamp it down easily.

The offset of the jointer can be whatever you are looking for. Not sure that there is a "set" deminsion for this. I believe the norm is 1/16" - 1/8". 


I'm sure there are others here with a greater wisdom than I that will chime in.


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## Router is still my name (May 3, 2006)

tpyke said:


> I bought a few E-plans from Oak Park. They are all pretty simple and straight forward to understand. I am only having one problem, with the heart waste basket plan...I don't know if they omitted something in the plan or if I missed something (even though I re-read the plan twice looking for this...), but they say: "Follow plans to make a bevel jointer fence". They don't give you plans to make the jointer though. They show you this picture, where you can see that the outfeed is not the same width as the in feed, but there are no measures:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



If you are trying to used the fence to join boards then the out feed should always be wider then the in feed about 1/32 or 1/16 at most, it looks like it’s reversed in the picture.
If you are trying to do bevel cuts at 22.5 then both in and out feed should be same width. But, The angle board in the picture does not have enough support for a safe angle routing operation. Much safer and easier to use an angle router bit.
Most plans are meant to give you some idea but are not necessarily accurate. Always use precaution.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi tpyke

Many and most of Bob's R. jigs are neat but sometimes it's best think out side of the box.. 

If you have a jointer this is a easy job but if not then like Router pointed out just use the right bit for this job..

Like the one below
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=513181B
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=05001


Just a note*** you don't need to use both bits, one will do the job,the glue up will hide the joint,that's to say just use the male bit..it's a quick way to put on the 22.5 deg.on the stock and it's a safe way...

Just one bit you can use and it's a bit cheaper..and easyer to setup and use.
Multi-Sided Glue Joint Router Bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...tml/pages/bt_door.html#multisided_glue_anchor

This bit can can be used to put in corner brace brackets in cabinet work.

Just run the stock by the bit with the stock on end...it will put in a notch to set the corner brace in place...



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## tpyke (Nov 11, 2007)

Actually, I was thinking about just cutting the bevel on the boards with my bandsaw, but the jig also serves to cut a slot down the length of the 22.5 degree bevel to join all the boards together like a biscuit jointer would. Do 22.5 degree angled slot bit exist?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi tpyke

Most biscuit jointers can be set at 22 1/2 deg..

But using the band saw to cut the stock on the 22 1/2 deg. will be tricky..try your table saw with a good blade.

Then once you have the stock cut at the 22 1/2 deg. move the fence over just a bit and put in a slot for a spline..
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tpyke said:


> Actually, I was thinking about just cutting the bevel on the boards with my bandsaw, but the jig also serves to cut a slot down the length of the 22.5 degree bevel to join all the boards together like a biscuit jointer would. Do 22.5 degree angled slot bit exist?


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## tpyke (Nov 11, 2007)

Sorry about that! I meant table saw.....

Good idea about moving the fence over!


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

In the DVD series 5, 501 shop step stool, Rick uses a similar fence. They use a 15degree bevel and the offset on the outfeed side of the fence is 1/8". A small note *** the bevel angle can be anything YOU want it to be.





tpyke said:


> I bought a few E-plans from Oak Park. They are all pretty simple and straight forward to understand. I am only having one problem, with the heart waste basket plan...I don't know if they omitted something in the plan or if I missed something (even though I re-read the plan twice looking for this...), but they say: "Follow plans to make a bevel jointer fence". They don't give you plans to make the jointer though. They show you this picture, where you can see that the outfeed is not the same width as the in feed, but there are no measures:
> 
> Click to Enlarge
> 
> ...


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## tpyke (Nov 11, 2007)

Hamlin said:


> In the DVD series 5, 501 shop step stool, Rick uses a similar fence. They use a 15degree bevel and the offset on the outfeed side of the fence is 1/8". A small note *** the bevel angle can be anything YOU want it to be.


There we go! Now I can reproduce the jig exactly. Thanks for that Hamlin!
I'm surprised though....I thought that Bob or Rick would have chimed in with specs on the jig ,I thought they came on here once in awhile...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

tpyke said:


> There we go! Now I can reproduce the jig exactly. Thanks for that Hamlin!
> I'm surprised though....I thought that Bob or Rick would have chimed in with specs on the jig ,I thought they came on here once in awhile...


You're welcome. 
One thing that I've learned from this "relaxing" hobby, for jigs, you can make them in any fashion in which that work for you.

As for Rick and Bob, I haven't seen them on in quite some time now.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Just to give this thread an update. Here's a link that will help build this jig. As I've stated before, the bevel can be any you wish, ie., 22 1/2*, 30*, 45*. Hope this helps everyone. 

http://www.routerworkshop.com/bevelfence.html


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just to add a note,, I DO like jigs alot but you don't need them sometimes 

Some will say, but I can do the same thing on my table saw, and I would say the router table can do this job so much better, you can't beat a router bit for being dead on ever time....no guess work at all...

But they if the stock is not true then the jointer is the tool to do the job, it can set set from 5 deg. to 90 deg. quick and easy...and your stock will come out clean and true...



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Chamfer Bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_chamf.html

2 flute, carbide tipped with totally enclosed ball bearing guide. 
Ideal for beveling and decorative edges. Also used for producing a 45° edge for mitres. Use #5376/#7677 for making square frames, #5380/#7680 for making hexagon frames, #5379/#7679 for making octagon frames, and #5378/#7678 for making 12 sided (dodecagon) frames.


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