# Circular saw rail guide system



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I came across this system when I was looking in Sketchup for a model of a circular saw. It looks like it will solve my problem of needing something to be able to cut panels, and also for ripping very wide and long lumber, like 2x12s for example.

It is based on 1/4" thick stock and uses an iron bar, all of which is very accessable at any big box store. It also looks like it will be very easy to make.

I will include build pics as I go.


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

I may be missing something here but to me it won't work as designed. The piece under the platform the saw rides on will prevent it from moving through the wood being cut. Take that out and it works.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Chris

I use a Festool saw and rail system for about 80% (or more) of my cuts and whilst I know they are too expensive for the average hobby woodworker I can affirm that they make life a lot easier. I'd be interested in the outcome of your home-brew. Looks interesting

BTW Have you thought about how you are going to align the blade to the cut line?n And how to stop the "guide rail" slipping whilst you make the cut?



denniswoody said:


> The piece under the platform the saw rides on will prevent it from moving through the wood being cut


I think it should work providing that piece has an eased front edge and is no thicker than the "guide rail". It should act as a sort of zero-clearance insert to prevent spelching. Take it out and you'll get break-out, surely

Regards

Phil


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

denniswoody said:


> I may be missing something here but to me it won't work as designed. The piece under the platform the saw rides on will prevent it from moving through the wood being cut. Take that out and it works.


Phil is right. It does double duty ... a zero-clearance thing to help reduce tearout, and to support that side of the saw so it doesn't tip.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Phil P said:


> Hi Chris
> 
> I use a Festool saw and rail system for about 80% (or more) of my cuts and whilst I know they are too expensive for the average hobby woodworker I can affirm that they make life a lot easier. I'd be interested in the outcome of your home-brew. Looks interesting
> 
> ...


Yes, if money was not a concern, then the Festool solution would be just what I would want. They have a very elegant system that works great.

As to aligning the blade, if we can assume that the edge of the saw's base is parallel to the blade (I know that might not be valid and would need to be verified), then I can use any constant width piece as a spacer between the edge of the saw's support piece and the saw's base. As shown, it is a 3/4" space between the CS base edge and the CS support piece's edge (the edge that touches the bar).

The rail is attached to the 1/4" piece it sits on. That whole thing would be clamped to the stock to keep it from shifting while running the saw along it.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

There is a simpler version that will accomplish as good a tearout protection (it is only good on one side because it rides above the guide platform. You just need a straight edge for a fence attached to a base that is wider than the saw offset. On the first cut it saws off the excess which shows the cut line thereafter. The same thing works with a router as long as you use the same size bit each time.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> There is a simpler version that will accomplish as good a tearout protection (it is only good on one side because it rides above the guide platform. You just need a straight edge for a fence attached to a base that is wider than the saw offset. On the first cut it saws off the excess which shows the cut line thereafter. The same thing works with a router as long as you use the same size bit each time.


I made one just like that with some 1/4" MDF and used the factory edge of some 3/4" MDF for the fence. Works great.

GCG


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Chuck, this does that too, doesn't it? It would be done the same way, with the first cut trimming the excess. After making that cut, then you would put on the shoe on the other side to add that side.

The difference is that there is a rail that the saw's sled straddles, which helps keep it from wandering. The zero-clearance aspect on other side of the saw's sled helps keep tearout from occuring on that side of the cut too.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It's only zero clearance on one side, the side of the base. Your zero clearance plate rides on the baseplate, the top side of which is 1/4" or 3/8" inch above your work. Otherwise, yes it works the same. Like I said, yours is just a little more complicated to make.

I did have a problem with mine at first. The saw didn't want to track right. I had always assumed that the base plate would be square to the saw since it was made from a factory jig. WRONG. When I finally decided to check the distance from the blade at both ends to the edge of the baseplate I found out that it was almost 1/16" out. I knocked out the roll pin that held the front part of the saw to the plate and ground off one side of the saw frame, installed a flat washer on the other side to keep it straight and it now is very accurate.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

perhaps some more images are in order.

pic 1 shows that the side opposite the rail has a shoe, so that side also contacts the stock.

pic 2 shows the underneath side, where the blade exits the stock. you can see that it is a zero clearance thing on both sides of the blade.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Chris Curl said:


> Yes, if money was not a concern, then the Festool solution would be just what I would want.


Hi Chris

Maybe I should have said that I'm a contractor sort of person, so it's a work tool for me, but yes, the price brought tears to my eyes when I bought it



Chris Curl said:


> As to aligning the blade, if we can assume that the edge of the saw's base is parallel to the blade (I know that might not be valid and would need to be verified), then I can use any constant width piece as a spacer between the edge of the saw's support piece and the saw's base. As shown, it is a 3/4" space between the CS base edge and the CS support piece's edge (the edge that touches the bar)


FYI about Festool, Bosch and other commercial rail systems; these systems utilise a strip of semi-hard plastic attached to the underside of the guide rail. When new this strip protrudes 5 or 6mm, The first cut then trims the strip to match the blade leaving about 2mm protruding beyond the guide rail. Any subsequent lines are sawn by merely making two "ticks" (pencil marks), one at either end of the cut line, lining up the edge of the plastic anti-splinter strip and making the cut. This has the advantage of not requiring an alignment block to be used at each end which I feel might prove rather frustrating in use. The anti-splinter strip is replaceable, although in fact I find they only last a couple or three months in commercial use.



Chris Curl said:


> The rail is attached to the 1/4" piece it sits on. That whole thing would be clamped to the stock to keep it from shifting while running the saw along it.


You might want to consider adding a couple of strips of soft rubber underneath. This is what the bought-in systems use and you rarely need to clamp them - the rubber strips prevent slippage 9 times out of 10. Makes the whole thing easier and faster to use

Regards

Phil


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I made my own track saw. It's pretty easy to do and cost me $0. I already had the saw and the materials were free.
Take a look at my lumberjocks post about it.
Poor mans track saw - by gavinzagreb @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

After the safety police made some comments I even added the riving knife and a spring so it would plunge and return the blade to safety when lifted off the track.
You'll have to scroll down the comments to see those additions.

I used non slip material on the base which works very well.

I say go for it.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Those are some good notes Phil, thanks.

It would be easy to put some stick back sandpaper on the bottom side.

I'm not sure how I'd do the replaceable splinter thing ... maybe by backing off the zero-clearance thing and rabbetting the underside of the saw blade side of the rail base, then putting a piece of hardboard in there with some sticky tape would work.

Do the commercial systems have a splinter guard on the other side of the blade (the side away from the rail/track)?


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

gav, i like that system you did there. it looks like it uses a similar approach to what i stumbled on. 

questions:

- what did you use for the material for the rail?
- how did you attach that material to the base?


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

The rail, the guide strip and the sub-base are all made from 6mm thick laminate flooring.
It's flat, straight and relatively durable.

I have thought to refine it a little by adding a rubber strip on the cutting edge of the rail but have yet to find the right kind of rubber for the job.

1 tip I have is to make the sub-base slightly smaller than the saws base.
Once fitted, run it across the router table using the original saw base edge against the router fence to create the dado/groove that the guide slides in.
With any luck, that edge should be parallel to the saw blade.

I used a thin double sided carpet tape to attach the sub-base to the saw, it does not move a millimetre. In fact I think I might have a hard time getting it off when the time comes.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

so you ripped a narrow piece of laminate for the rail. got it.

is the guide strip thinner than 6mm?

how did you attach that to the base? glue? carpet tape?

it is so thin that i would think screws would not really hold very well ... ?


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Same thickness, glued into the dadoed (3mm) 'track'.
I think I used a polyurethane glue as I wasn't so sure a standard pva would work so well.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

gav said:


> After the safety police made some comments I even added the riving knife and a spring so it would plunge and return the blade to safety when lifted off the track.


Hi Gav

Long time no hear! (or should that be read?) Nice job! Although I'm not so sure I'd have bothered with the riving knife. If you are cutting man-made materials such as chipboard, MFC or MDF then it's possibly a bit overkill, especially on thin stock where the saw has enough power to simply keep going - so much so that Mafell and Bosch rail saws _don't have a riving knife_ and for that matter quite a few conventional saws (such as the 9-3/4in 3HP Bosch GKS85) don't either (maybe their attorney's are better than the guy who warned you off?). On Chinese plywood and rip cuts (as opposed to cross cuts) in natural timbers it's possibly worthwhile, but it's maybe worth remembering that a 1000 to 1200 watt universal motor with a 160 to 180mm blade will as likely stall in cut when a pinch happen than kick back - a large portable rip snorter (e.g. that Bosch) or a table saw with 2HP of induction motor and a 10in blade or bigger is a different kind of animal and _will_ oblige with a kick back when provoked. 



Chris Curl said:


> It would be easy to put some stick back sandpaper on the bottom side.


That's OK if you are painting the material afterwards, but it will scratch anything else like crazy - this I'm acutely aware of as I often times cut MF-MDF, laminated worktops, etc where abrasives would be a no-no. Thin rubber materials? How about a strip of bicycle inner tube in a router recess? Or a strip of that sticky rubber stuff they sell as router pads?



Chris Curl said:


> I'm not sure how I'd do the replaceable splinter thing ... maybe by backing off the zero-clearance thing and rabbetting the underside of the saw blade side of the rail base, then putting a piece of hardboard in there with some sticky tape would work.


Depending on what you are cutting and the blade you use it may not be necessary, but for laminated surfaces I'd say it would be. The idea of a rebated-in sacrificial strip is excellent IMHO



Chris Curl said:


> Do the commercial systems have a splinter guard on the other side of the blade (the side away from the rail/track)?


Some do. Festools have a sort of semi-sacrificial pad with screws to the "offside" of the blade. The first time you make a plunge cut it gets trimmed - so not really a practical idea to copy. TBH I've very rarely used mine.

Regards

Phil


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Hi Phil, yeah I kind of swore off the forums for a while due to various reasons.
I didn't keep the riving knife on, just did it to prove to the safety police that it was possible and that everyone has a choice.

For the base of the rail, a rubbery non slip mesh type material is available, usually for under rugs or in drawers. Failing that, liquid latex can be painted on and is very grippy.

I have to say that even with my cheap as chips Lidl table saw cutting mostly naturally seasoned oak, I have yet to experience kickback. I wonder if it's mostly user error in set-up that causes it.


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

I sometimes knock up a guide rail if I'm doing a lot of cuts on site, cut a ripping off the good edge of a board, screw and glue it onto a wider ripping thats further out than the cut will be then using the good edge of the top ripping for the saw baseplate to run against I cut the one its attached to. This means the edge is right where the cut will be and lessens splinters dramatically.
Then I just clamp it onto the workpiece and get going.

Top two thicknesses are the guide and the screw is cut short so it doesn't protrude through to the part being cut, after the glue goes off it doesn't matter anyway as I take it out
I make sure there's enough space to get the motor past the clamps as well.








In the cut.









I tend to just leave those on site when I leave as I can't be bothered having long rippings kicking about in the back of my van for ages.
A proper guide rail system would be better but for what I do they do quite well.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

gav said:


> Same thickness, glued into the dadoed (3mm) 'track'.
> I think I used a polyurethane glue as I wasn't so sure a standard pva would work so well.


ah-hah ... the elusive dado in the track trick! thanks!

I updated the sketchup to use 1/2" ply, a 3/4" wide piece of hard wood, and hardboard.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Charles; what brand of saw are you using? Both my old Makita and DeWalt are adjustable for alignment. Your comment really surprised me; having the blade absolutely parallel to whatever you use for a fence is pretty crucial(?)...
Surely all saw manufacturers need to do an alignment procedure during assembly? How do/did _they_ do it? 
I was curious so I checked the online DeWalt manual:

SHOE ALIGNMENT
Your saw has been set at the factory for accurate vertical cuts (a 90 degree angle between the
bottom of the shoe (M) and the blade). The edge of the shoe has also been set parallel to the blade
so that it will not bind when using an edge guide. If the saw should ever need adjustment, it may
be done as follows:
ADJUSTING FOR 90° CUTS (FIG. 9-11)
1. DISCONNECT PLUG FROM POWER SUPPLY.
2. Adjust the saw to 0° bevel.
3. Place saw on blade side (Figure 9). Retract blade guard.
4. Loosen quadrant knob. Place a square against the blade and shoe to adjust the 90° setting.
5. Loosen the hex nut (N) and move the adjustment screw (O) so that the shoe will stop at the
proper angle as shown in Figure 11. Lock the screw in place by tightening the hex nut.
6. It may be necessary to adjust the quadrant angle pointer to line up on “O” after shoe has
been adjusted.
ADJUSTING THE SHOE PARALLEL TO THE BLADE
1. DISCONNECT PLUG FROM POWER SUPPLY.
2. Loosen the hex nut (N) shown in Figure 10 and then turn the adjustment screw (O) in or
out as needed to adjust for parallelism.
3. Adjust the shoe until it is parallel to the blade by measuring from the edge of the shoe to the
blade, front & rear. You can measure from the outside edge of the blade to the shoe as
shown in Figure 8 or from the inner edge of the blade to the wider part of the shoe. (Do not
measure from the tips of any saw blade teeth.)
4. When the shoe and blade are parallel, hold the adjusting screw in place and tighten the hex
nut firmly.


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

*E. Emerson Tool Co.*



Chris Curl said:


> I came across this system when I was looking in Sketchup for a model of a circular saw. It looks like it will solve my problem of needing something to be able to cut panels, and also for ripping very wide and long lumber, like 2x12s for example.
> 
> It is based on 1/4" thick stock and uses an iron bar, all of which is very accessable at any big box store. It also looks like it will be very easy to make.
> 
> I will include build pics as I go.


Hi Chris, for all panel breakdown we use E. Emerson Tool Co. 'C series' contractors clamps. They are available up to 99in.. They have a saw and a router plate that tracks in the edge guide, kind of handy. Also check out the video. I used one of these for years.

E. Emerson Tool Co. C50 50-Inch All-In-One Contractor Straight Edge Clamping Tool Guide - Amazon.com

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QzyyQ2sfex4


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Will, I know about that jig; everyone and his brother does that. 

I want something more along the lines of a track saw, in a similar vein as the Festool track saw. There is a reason why a track saw is great: it is much more likely to keep the saw going in a straight line.

That clamping thing is pretty cool, but it's not where I want to go with this build.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Chris Curl said:


> perhaps some more images are in order.
> 
> pic 1 shows that the side opposite the rail has a shoe, so that side also contacts the stock.
> 
> pic 2 shows the underneath side, where the blade exits the stock. you can see that it is a zero clearance thing on both sides of the blade.


Sorry Chris, I missed the extra piece under the sole plate of the saw. Yes that would help against tearout. You could do that the other way like I suggested too. Both ways of buiding the guide will work although as I mentioned you should check the baseplate for squareness with the saw blade. I couldn't believe how far out mine was.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Good point Chuck. I will definately check that.

I think I wll actually get some time to actually work on this tomorrow!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> Charles; what brand of saw are you using? Both my old Makita and DeWalt are adjustable for alignment. Your comment really surprised me; having the blade absolutely parallel to whatever you use for a fence is pretty crucial(?)...
> Surely all saw manufacturers need to do an alignment procedure during assembly? How do/did _they_ do it?
> I was curious so I checked the online DeWalt manual:
> 
> ...


A Skil. No adjustment, it is riveted at the back side and a roll pin holds it together in the front. Alignment was never a problem until I used it with an edge guide. Had it for years. It built a house and a shop and many other things in carpentry mode. I never needed it when I was home in BC to break panels down as my unisaw with outfeed table did that job instead. Only when I moved over here to Alberta and had t make do with a much smaller saw that I found out how bad it was.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

mine is a ryobi. no adjustment with that either.

that is one of the nice things about a sled like this ... the saw can be put on the sled in the proper orientation to compensate for an out of true base.


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## IRONMULE31014 (Feb 16, 2013)

An easy job for you Chris


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Good sketchup looks good to me should work. Do a build of your jig.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Charles & Chris; good thing to know if anyone's buying a builder's saw with the intent of doing accurate cuts. Surely that must cause skewing issues when using an edge guide, ripping lumber (?).


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

roofner said:


> Good sketchup looks good to me should work. Do a build of your jig.


The build thread is here:

Build thread


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Chris Curl said:


> The build thread is here:
> 
> Build thread


Interesting read, Chris

Regards

Phil


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Looks good Chris it looks like you will get stated ripping soon. I have a problem don't have out feed for my table saw to rip 8 ft pieces.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Chris Curl said:


> Will, I know about that jig; everyone and his brother does that.
> 
> I want something more along the lines of a track saw, in a similar vein as the Festool track saw. There is a reason why a track saw is great: it is much more likely to keep the saw going in a straight line.
> 
> That clamping thing is pretty cool, but it's not where I want to go with this build.


Chris 

I am not sure if you have seen this track system made by Veritas and sold at Lee Valley Tools. Veritas® Power Tool Guide - Lee Valley Tools

I bought one and found some used plexi glass 3/8" thick. I made my own mounting plate for both my router and ended up buying a new Makita Circular saw which is used exclusively with this track system. 

I found if you use a thin kerf blade it will flex on you. I had to cut off 2" from a interior hollow core door and found it went off course. When I switched out the blade to a standard 1/8" rip blade it solved my problem.

If you want I can send you some pictures of it. I made a nice case for it so I can transport it to and from job sites without damaging the extensions.

If your having tear out issues I found using masking tape and taping the cutting area will minimize tear out. The other trick I have done is to run an Olfa knife along the cut line to break the surface and thus help reduce tear out.

Here was my first edge guide made from some 3/8 plywood.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Thanks TRN. I got a thin kerf Freud Demo Demon. I have opened it, so I can't return it, but I can get another blade. Any recommendations for a thicker blade I can pick up at Home Depot or Lowes?

I do intend to make a sled for my router as well.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

TRN_Diesel said:


> CThe other trick I have done is to run an Olfa knife along the cut line to break the surface and thus help reduce tear out.


Hi Dan

This illustrates why Festool, Bosch, Mafell _et al_ commercial guide rails utilise a system where the edge of the guide has an anti-splinter strip attached and that in turn forms the cut line. One less thing to do and faster operation - very important fro a trade worker. It's not just about cutting a straight line IMHO

Regards

Phil


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Phil

I agree with you 100%. I have no doubt Festool is the Cadillac of rail systems but for many it is way out of our price range. I opted for the system I choose for cost and basic economics.

Truth of the matter I thought I had lost my circular saw and had to buy another one only to find it some time later after I did a major cleanup. :moil:

The old adage "the right tool for the right job" comes to mind. Imagine doing what we do by hand, my god think of the extra time and effort tradesman had to put in to get the job done.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Imagine doing what we do by hand, my god think of the extra time and effort tradesman had to put in to get the job done.


Sure thing, Dan. It doesn't bear thinking about

Regards

Phil


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Chris Curl said:


> Thanks TRN. I got a thin kerf Freud Demo Demon. I have opened it, so I can't return it, but I can get another blade. Any recommendations for a thicker blade I can pick up at Home Depot or Lowes?
> 
> I do intend to make a sled for my router as well.


What will you be cutting Chris? 2x4's, plywood or hardwood?

Will you be cross cutting or ripping?

I have a few different blades which are specific to what sort of material I am cutting and whether it is cross cut or a rip cut.

The blade I use is a combination 24 tooth blade. This is an exchange blade which means I simply take it back to Rona and they exchange it for a new blade. I now purchase all my blades from a local sharpening shop in my area. I like to support small business in my community if I can. 

I do not want to hijack your thread Chris so I have made a new thread to show you what I did. Go and have a look and see what you like and perhaps it will help you.
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/40372-veritas-power-tool-guide.html#post326813

Good luck with the build.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

TRN, I don't do alot, but if I could use it instead of the table saw, I think that would be a good goal. It would be easier to move that out onto the driveway than moving the table saw.

So to answer your question, probably a little of everything over time.

But it would be mainly for ripping and braking down larger stock, because I have a 10" miter saw for cross cuts.

You know, things like 2x8s or larger, and plywood sheets.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Based on your answer then Chris I would suggest a combination blade for cross cutting 2x8 with a 24 tooth blade like the one I have in the picture I posted.

Another trick I use to break down larger sheets of plywood is to buy a 4x8 sheet of 1 1/2" Styrofoam. Set the piece of Styrofoam on the ground where it is flat. This allows you to lay the sheet right on top of the Styrofoam and set the depth of cut to allow the saw blade to cut into the Styrofoam by about 1/8". 

This accomplishes two things for you:

1) First it reduces tear out by supporting the underside of the cut (plywood cutting - use masking tape as well for a cleaner cut).
2) Supports the two pieces to eliminate any binding issues when cutting the sheet.

I still use this when I have to cut heavy sheets of MDF. All the cabinets in the shop were cut like this and then trim to size on the table saw.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Chris, I bought a 40 tooth blade from Cripe Distributing. He has some good deals on blades and router bit odds and ends. Working from the back side the 40 tooth makes a nice cut on ply without splintering.


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## Marcel M (Jun 14, 2012)

How have you addressed cutting and accurate alignment of angle cuts?


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Marcel, sorry, but I don't understand the question. Can you elaborate? If you are referring to cuts where the blade is not 90 degrees, no I have not thought about those, and I am not sure I would use this thing for cuts like that.


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## Marcel M (Jun 14, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> ...... If you are referring to cuts where the blade is not 90 degrees, no I have not thought about those, and I am not sure I would use this thing for cuts like that.


Yes Chris, that is exactly what I am referring to. I have found several instances where that function would have been very helpful. I like the ability to use the track guide to follow a layout line regardless of which angle you set the saw (see thumbnail). The TS 55 makes the actual cut right on the edge of the scribe line, even on bevel cuts as demonstrated in the video provided (forward time index to 6:34). :yes2: 

Festool TS 75 EQ Plunge Saw - YouTube


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Marcel M said:


> The TS 55 makes the actual cut right on the edge of the scribe line, even on bevel cuts as demonstrated in the video provided (forward time index to 6:34). :yes2:


Yes indeed. That's one reason so many tradesmen use them these days - they're fast AND accurate

Regards

Phil


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Marcel M said:


> Yes Chris, that is exactly what I am referring to. I have found several instances where that function would have been very helpful. I like the ability to use the track guide to follow a layout line regardless of which angle you set the saw (see thumbnail). The TS 55 makes the actual cut right on the edge of the scribe line, even on bevel cuts as demonstrated in the video provided (forward time index to 6:34). :yes2:
> 
> Festool TS 75 EQ Plunge Saw - YouTube


You might consider the BORA set...clamps allow angles to 22.5...Nick...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Nickp said:


> You might consider the BORA set...clamps allow angles to 22.5...Nick...[/QUO
> 
> 
> Whoops...wrong angle...sorry...


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

The first time I used it, I learned that my saw's base is not perfectly square to the blade. The front of the blade is maybe 1/16 ot 1/32 further than the back. It kept trying to pull the sled away from the rail, so it chewed up the edge of the board a little. Frustrated, I put it to the side and worked on my new-fangled bench instead.

Yesterday I got it out again and looked at it. I put a washer in the back corner the sled to push that end out a little. I also put a hook at the front to hold the guard open. Now it works great, but there is a 1/6" or so space between the edge of the board and the blade, so I need to account for that whan lining things up for the cut.

On the other side of the rail, there was a little over 3" of space, which just so happens to be almost exactly what I would need for a guide for my router, so I put a 1/2" bit in the router and trimmed it with the router. 

Now I have a dual purpose guide system for both my circular saw and my router.

Even with its downside, I'm still happy with it, and I expect I will use it alot.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Chris Curl said:


> The first time I used it, I learned that my saw's base is not perfectly square to the blade. The front of the blade is maybe 1/16 ot 1/32 further than the back. It kept trying to pull the sled away from the rail, so it chewing up the edge of the board a little. Frustrated, I put it to the side and worked on my new-fangled bench instead.
> 
> Yesterday I got it out again and looked at it. I put a washer in the back corner the sled to push that end out a little. I also put a hook at the front to hold the guard open. Now it works great, but there is a 1/6" or so space between the edge of the board and the blade, so I need to account for that whan lining things up for the cut.
> 
> ...


Awesome Chris. Is there any way you can modify the skill saw base to allow for adjustment? What type of saw is it? Take a picture so I can look at and see if I can offer a possible solution.

Thanks


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The front of my circular is joined by a roll pin to the sole. I knocked it out, then filed one side of the attachment so it would move over to the right spot and put the pin back in with a washer for a shim on the opposite side of the attachment point to keep the saw forced to the right alignment. Maybe took 1/2 hour.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Dan, true to form (for me), it is the cheap Ryobi circular saw from Home Depot. I can post a pic or 2 of it tomorrow.


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