# Router Table Plate



## dgcutter (Dec 25, 2012)

I built a router table and bought a plate from Lowes some years ago. I've really done little with it until now. I'm ready to get into it now. The plate seems to warp downward. Where can I find a new plate to match mine? I'd hate to have to build a new table to match a new plate.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Glenn:

Welcome the Router Forums.

Have you considered making a new plate? Only needs a rigid material, like 3/8 inch acrylic. Using one's router with a flush trim bit following the outline of the old plate, one could quickly size the new plate. Add whatever holes are needed, maybe some rabbets and there you are with a new plate.

Cassandra


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## dgcutter (Dec 25, 2012)

Well no, I hadn't considered that. I'm not sure how I would make the corners match the original radius though. I guess I could cut acrylic on my band saw. Or would that just melt it? Hmmm. Thanks for the reply.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Glenn:

The "secret" with working plastic is slow speed. When I rout plaste, I set the router to minimum speed (about 10000 rpm.) The same is probably true when using a band saw with plastic.

I am not sure why one would have trouble matching the original plate's radius, as a trim bit should follow the curve. Obviously, I am missing something here.

Cassandra


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Cassandra said:


> Hi Glenn:
> 
> The "secret" with working plastic is slow speed. When I rout plaste, I set the router to minimum speed (about 10000 rpm.) The same is probably true when using a band saw with plastic.
> 
> ...


Perhaps Glenn isn't familiar with a flush trim bit.



















The bearing is the same dia. as the cut so it follows the pattern piece, in this case the original plate, and creates a perfect matching piece. Most use double sided tape to hold the two pieces together.

GCG


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## Hawks_Feather (Jan 6, 2010)

dgcutter said:


> I guess I could cut acrylic on my band saw. Or would that just melt it? Hmmm.


As for the other reply a slow speed is helpful. Another thing that sometimes helps is to cover the area to be cut with clear packing tape. I really don't know how it helps, but it does - especially on a scroll saw.

Jerry


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I am making a 6" x 6" base plate for my recently purchased Ozito router out of acrylic so that I can use guide bushings and just used my hack saw to cut.

Next step is to use a template trim cutter to square the edges and trim the corners.


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## Bill7255 (Dec 23, 2012)

From your post I believe you want a insert for your table and not a plate for your router. You didn't say what size plate you now have. I wouldn't try making a table insert plate as you will have to buy material, drill holes for the router and it would be difficult to make the router hole inserts. Making a base plate for a router table would be difficult. I am sure people do it, but I can't see how it would be very cost effective. The two main materials used are phenolic and aluminum. There are several options. There are several somewhat standard size plates available from an number of different places. A somewhat standard size is 9 1/4 X 11 3/4 X 3/8. These plates are also pre drilled for different routers, so you need to look for that especially if your router can be raised using the stock base. A second option is to buy a plate larger and then buy the template and use the red router bit in the post above to resize it to your table. Templates are about $10 from many places.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Cassandra said:


> The "secret" with working plastic is slow speed. When I rout plaste, I set the router to minimum speed (about 10000 rpm.) The same is probably true when using a band saw with plastic.


Hi Cassandra

I have to agree with you on spindle speed - it's exactly what firms such as Leitz and Onsrud Cutter recommend. With spirals on plastics in particular the best approach is always to _reduce_ spindle speed and _increase_ feed speed. To a lesser extent this is also true of straight cutters. What you should be trying to achieve is a definite "chip" as opposed to dust. If you set the spindle speed too high and feed too slowly you'll subject the waste to "churning" where the waste is cut and recut within the cutter before being expelled. Churning causes a heat build-up[ in the cutter, premature wear, cutter and sometimes even workpiece scorching as well as leading to "weld-back" in many plastics (where the waste literally welds itself onto the top surface of the material thus damaging it)

Regards

Phil


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Since there is no standard size for plates a photo with measurements will let us help you figure out the best solution to your problem.

The first photo is a mounting plate and the colored rings inside it are inserts. Photo #2 is a sub base plate for a router; this one has pins for easy centering to cut a mortise.


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## dgcutter (Dec 25, 2012)

The plate doesn't really seem to be warped now for some reason. I drilled a new hole to match the router and its ok. My next concern is the fence. It was well made from a Shop Smith magazine design from oak. I just seems to have a very slight bow to it. I'll fix that with my table saw. A lot to do to bring up the standard a few notches. I'm learning now why I never got good smooth, accurate cuts. I'm liking it! Thanks for the comments. I think I will find some acrylic and make a new plate some day soon. I do have trim bits with bearings. I just never used them for something like this.


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