# Starting in the middle of a piece?



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

FWIW, my router is a fixed base one I got at HD, not a plunge router. I built a simple table top for it with a lift that can be controlled from the top.

If I want to start a cut in the middle of a piece, say for a slot or something, how do you do that with a table-mounted router?

Can I hold the piece to the table with a hold down, start the router, and then use my lift to raise the router into the piece where I want to start? That SEEMS ok, but being new at this, I am worried that there might be something unsafe about it, so I figured it is better to ask than learn the hard way.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Smart.
It is unsafe. Inside cutting on the router table is hazardous.
The work can self feed whilst you're changing depth, break the cutter and spoil the work.
Starting & stopping is nothing but burning and bungee risk.
Inside work should be done with a plunger x hand.
Lots of priors? Then consider the pin router.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

I second that warning. I did something like that a few days ago and ruined a nice piece of wood and broke a spiral bit. I tried routing a slot in a piece of wood and had drilled a 1/4 inch hole at each end of the slot,set up the fence, dropped the wood down over the bit, started the router and that is where things went all to hell. My 1/4 inch hole was all of a sudden the size of a half dollar and the bit broke before I could get the router shut off. Luckily I wasn't hurt, but I assure you I won't try that again.


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## pal (Feb 13, 2008)

Ken Bee said:


> I second that warning. I did something like that a few days ago and ruined a nice piece of wood and broke a spiral bit. I tried routing a slot in a piece of wood and had drilled a 1/4 inch hole at each end of the slot,set up the fence, dropped the wood down over the bit, started the router and that is where things went all to hell. My 1/4 inch hole was all of a sudden the size of a half dollar and the bit broke before I could get the router shut off. Luckily I wasn't hurt, but I assure you I won't try that again.


You start the router before you lower the piece of timber onto the cutter. Set a stop for where you want the slot to start and on the other side of the fence where you want the slot to finish, I have used this method many time without any mishap.

Regards
Harold


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## pal (Feb 13, 2008)

Hi Chris, Set your fence and the router bit to the depth and distance you require, set a stop to the left of your bit where you want the slot to start, on the right side of your bit set another stop for the length of the slot, start your router and set the butt of the timber against the stop to the left of the bit and lower the piece of timber down onto the router bit, slide the timber to the other stop and you have the slot.

Regards
Harold


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Harold, So you are routing from left to right with the wood to the fence so the wood won't be forced in to the fence and slung across the shop?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

This the time you would use your ski jig setup, it's very safe to do it ..

==


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

pal said:


> You start the router before you lower the piece of timber onto the cutter. Set a stop for where you want the slot to start and on the other side of the fence where you want the slot to finish, I have used this method many time without any mishap.
> 
> Regards
> Harold


I second that....

Darryl


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

pal said:


> You start the router before you lower the piece of timber onto the cutter. Set a stop for where you want the slot to start and on the other side of the fence where you want the slot to finish, I have used this method many time without any mishap.
> 
> Regards
> Harold


Yeah, I finally figured that out and also have done it a few times with no mishaps and I also use a push pad on the board to keep it flat on the table and against the fence. The problem I have most days is, it takes me a while to wake up and smell toast burning.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I just drill a hole slightly larger than my router bit. Set the wood over the bit, turn the router on, and proceed. Never had any problems.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

JOAT said:


> I just drill a hole slightly larger than my router bit. Set the wood over the bit, turn the router on, and proceed. Never had any problems.


Hi Theo - I use that method myself, however, one important point not mentioned when doing this is to make sure the bit contacts the edge of the starter hole AWAY from the fence. If setup to contact the edge closest to fence it will get launched and the router will do its level best to bury the piece in the far wall.:wacko:


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## pal (Feb 13, 2008)

Hi Jim, 
My apologies to you and all others that have read the thread. I got the start and stop back the front. The left Stop controls the length of the cut and the right stop gives the start of the cut, So the timber is butted against the right hand stop to start. My apologies once again to all members for the stuff up.

Regards
Harold


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

JOAT said:


> I just drill a hole slightly larger than my router bit. Set the wood over the bit, turn the router on, and proceed. Never had any problems.


That is precisely what I did and all sorts of things went wrong. Like I said my 1/4 inch hole was re-sized to around a 2 inch hole before the bit broke and in less time than it took me to slap the off switch. I rely on my router table too much and fail to use my hand held router as often as I should. Quillman is right though in saying the safest way to do it is to use a plunge router to route out slots.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

pal said:


> Hi Jim,
> My apologies to you and all others that have read the thread. I got the start and stop back the front. The left Stop controls the length of the cut and the right stop gives the start of the cut, So the timber is butted against the right hand stop to start. My apologies once again to all members for the stuff up.
> 
> Regards
> Harold


Apology not needed Harold, I was just trying to understand the process in case I was going to give it a whirl (Hopefully not a whirl across the shop so I asked). Thanks for the clarification.


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## pal (Feb 13, 2008)

Jim It was one of those older moments seems to be coming more frequent these days. I am glad you did want it clarified other wise anyone trying it left to right would probably have had to pull the piece of timber out of the wall or worst lost a few fingers.

Regards
Harold


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

jschaben said:


> Hi Theo - I use that method myself, however, one important point not mentioned when doing this is to make sure the bit contacts the edge of the starter hole AWAY from the fence. If setup to contact the edge closest to fence it will get launched and the router will do its level best to bury the piece in the far wall.:wacko:


I don't use a fence. I use a 1" thick master/pattern tacked to the work piece, and a pattern bit. Gives plenty of heft to hold onto and guide the work. I just push the work into the bit, then feed from right to left, works like a charm for me.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

JOAT said:


> I don't use a fence. I use a 1" thick master/pattern tacked to the work piece, and a pattern bit. Gives plenty of heft to hold onto and guide the work. I just push the work into the bit, then feed from right to left, works like a charm for me.


Hi Theo - Yep, that works too. I'm betting Ken used the fence and had the bit on the edge closest the fence.... I recognized the symptoms right away:lol:


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

thanks all, great info here.

ok, next question ... regarding routing a slot in a 3/4" thick piece of stock ... with a 1HP router, how deep to start, and how many passes should i make to go all the way through the piece?

FWIW, this would be for a shop made T-Track in some 3/4" x 1 1/2" poplar using 1/4" and 1/2" straight bits. I would go all the way through with the 1/4" bit and then widen it a tad to make it about 5/16", and then about 1/2 way with the 1/2" bit. Then I just need a 3/4" hole on one end, and I can flip it and glue it where I want. That will be great for carriage bolts with the sides flattened with a grinder.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Chris Curl said:


> thanks all, great info here.
> 
> ok, next question ... regarding routing a slot in a 3/4" thick piece of stock ... with a 1HP router, how deep to start, and how many passes should i make to go all the way through the piece?
> 
> FWIW, this would be for a shop made T-Track in some 3/4" x 1 1/2" poplar using 1/4" and 1/2" straight bits. I would go all the way through with the 1/4" bit and then widen it a tad to make it about 5/16", and then about 1/2 way with the 1/2" bit. Then I just need a 3/4" hole on one end, and I can flip it and glue it where I want. That will be great for carriage bolts with the sides flattened with a grinder.


Hi Chris - Rule of thumb is 1/2 bit diameter so with a 1/4" bit depth of cut per pass would be 1/8". That said, with poplar, I would probably push the full 1/4" depth of cut but be very careful of feed rate. You could do that with 3 or 4 passes.


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## mr500 (Mar 27, 2012)

Great info for us Newbies!!!


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