# slot or T track



## Woiim (Oct 28, 2016)

Hi could anyone tell me which would be better a slot like in kreg tables or T track for an incra base setup. I have an incra 43" table which is 43" deep x 24' wide. With this table set up for the original incra jig it has to be mounted on a ply/mdf base across the back of the table but adjustable forward and backwards. I am not sure how to set up this adjustment travel. I can cut a slot about 26" long on either side about 4' in fom each side but worried about weakening the table. The other option is to rout out for an aluminium T track and bolt thru the table either side. The table is 1.25" thick
Any suggestions for a first time poster and newbie at woodworking especially routing. I will have Triton TRA001 setup with an aluminium wooed peckers plate in an Incra frame


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

usually a T track is only used for clamping stuff down, like the fence.
A U channel or slot track is used for stuff that needs to move across the table, like a mitre fence.

Best of both worlds would be a small length of T track front to back either side of the router to hold the fence tight, and a slot across the width in front of the router to allow the sliding mitre to travel across.
Like this

https://www.google.com.cy/search?q=...QAhUDLsAKHX2wBqoQsAQIFw#imgrc=8UsGVjK8S9mPeM:


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

I have no idea what the question is.


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## Woiim (Oct 28, 2016)

I probably didn't describe it properly. What I meant by slot is the full depth of table slot where you put a bolt right through the table and slide it backwards and forwards in a long slot


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## Woiim (Oct 28, 2016)

fire65 said:


> I have no idea what the question is.


Pretty basic really what do normal tables have on them for locking down fences, slotted holes right through the table or T track


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

T track. Slotted holes will weaken the top and it is much slower to bolt something through the table but at the same time I have no idea what you would need to attach to the table that would require that. Many of us don't have t track or a miter slot. You don't have to have either one but some like them. It's a matter of preference. The last fence I made I used t track. This one and all the ones prior to the last one got clamped with F clamps to the table. You can clamp featherboards too if you make them long enough.


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## Woiim (Oct 28, 2016)

Thanks for that I will go with T track. The Incra setup requires a sliding adjustable ply wood base to traverse the adjustment required when doing dove tails and box joints


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Woiim said:


> Thanks for that I will go with T track. The Incra setup requires a sliding adjustable ply wood base to traverse the adjustment required when doing dove tails and box joints


Welcome to the forum carrie You do not sound like a woodworking newbie.
for ideas on your incra you might enjoy http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/17212-wanted-pictures-your-router-table.html for different ideas


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Welcome, Carey...

I may have missed it...are you installing the Incra positioner...? the 17 or the 25...?

Are you talking about a base to mount the positioner to that needs to move ? or are you installing your own fence and it needs to move 26"...?

As I understand it, the base for the Incra does not need to move 26"...just wondering...


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

I'm with Nick here. The 43" table from Incra comes predrilled for the positioner base (3 pairs of holes if I recall correctly. If you're using the 17" LS positioner, use the front (closest to the plate) holes most of the time, and it's less than 4 minutes to move to the back position for the times you need to be farther back. Unless your work requires switching between the two on a regular basis, i'd not cut the table. If you have to change that often, i'd probably think about picking up a 25" positioner--the arm itself can be bought to swap out--or pick up a 25" system and sell the 17" and one might net a little less out of pocket cost. 

earl


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## Woiim (Oct 28, 2016)

No I just have the standard Original Incra Jig which is two plastic halves joined by a thru bolt which you loosen and adjust the incremental notches. It need a sliding base to be able to have a decent amount of travel as it has only about 8" of adjustment. Much as I would love the LS system havent got enough pocket money yet, about $900AU down here


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

I built a table for building custom fishing rods. I used T track for the uprights for wrapping the thread and for applying the epoxy. Table is 8 ft. long and has two sets of tracks- one for the thread carriage and light carriage and the other for the uprights holding the rod. Uses common 1/4-20 hex bolts or hex nuts for the track. Short screws to secure it to the table. One thing, I didn't cut a dado for the track or add extra top material; sits on the surface of the table.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Woiim said:


> No I just have the standard Original Incra Jig which is two plastic halves joined by a thru bolt which you loosen and adjust the incremental notches. It need a sliding base to be able to have a decent amount of travel as it has only about 8" of adjustment. Much as I would love the LS system havent got enough pocket money yet, about $900AU down here


Okay Carey, that is a different animal. If I recall that positioner correctly, as it is mounted to a board--could you put the t-track in the underside of the mounting board instead of the table top? Then you could use 1/4" bolts from under--inconvenient but it would keep that 43" top intact. 

earl


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Carey.


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## Woiim (Oct 28, 2016)

I will have alook at positioning the track under the mounting board. Thanks for the suggestion


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## Woiim (Oct 28, 2016)

old55 said:


> Welcome to the forum Carey.


Thank You for the welcome


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

greenacres2 said:


> Okay Carey, that is a different animal. If I recall that positioner correctly, as it is mounted to a board--could you put the t-track in the underside of the mounting board instead of the table top? Then you could use 1/4" bolts from under--inconvenient but it would keep that 43" top intact.
> 
> earl


...has my vote...I have the same positioner...put the slots in the base, not the top...


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## Woiim (Oct 28, 2016)

Nickp said:


> ...has my vote...I have the same positioner...put the slots in the base, not the top...


Thank you will try and set it up that way


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## Sominus (Oct 4, 2012)

Check out Fractional Metric Profiles Fasteners T-Nuts Brackets items in 8020 Aluminum T-slot Extrusions store on eBay!

LOTS of different configurations....


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I had one on the first router table The table came with slots in the top. Never had a problem.
Here are some pictures of the dust collection system i put on it. 
Herb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

^^ neat looking setup Herb


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> T track. Slotted holes will weaken the top and it is much slower to bolt something through the table but at the same time I have no idea what you would need to attach to the table that would require that. Many of us don't have t track or a miter slot. You don't have to have either one but some like them. It's a matter of preference. The last fence I made I used t track. This one and all the ones prior to the last one got clamped with F clamps to the table. You can clamp featherboards too if you make them long enough.


I agree with what Chuck said about a slot, but as you can see in the pictures ,if the slot is outboard of the supports(legs in this case), then there is no weight on them and it doesn't weaken the table.
However a slot in the board on top attached to the fence will work equally well too. If I remember right the instructions that came with the Incra Fence kit showed ways of attaching it. However it is done ,the fence has to be able to be slid back far enough to lift out the router plate for adjustment,changing bits etc.
Herb


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## Woiim (Oct 28, 2016)

Herb Stoops said:


> I had one on the first router table The table came with slots in the top. Never had a problem.
> Here are some pictures of the dust collection system i put on it.
> Herb


Yes that is the same as I have. So I dont ruin the Table I will try the track on the bottom of the base attachment and bolt through the table.


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