# Build an economy table top and install a mounting plate



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Object: Build a router table top and install a mounting plate for maximum value. This project is for beginning skill level and up.

Materials required:
1 Rockler phenolic impregnated Baltic birch plywood, 3/4" x 24" x 32". 
1 Grizzly PT10432047 "insert". (Mounting plate)
1 Rousseau RM3509-T Template mounting kit
1 roll double sided carpet tape.
1 bottle of thread lock.
Total cost: Under $70

Tools required:
A plunge router that accepts PC style guide bushings.
Brass set up bars.
A 1/2" solid carbide spiral up cut bit with a cutting length of 2".
A saw.
A drill motor
A 5/16" drill bit.
Two C clamps
A punch with an end diameter of 1/4".
A hammer.
A tape measure.
Scissors.
Safety glasses and hearing protection.

Begin by cutting 2" off the length of the board which will leave it at 24" x 30". I did this with my panel sled on my table saw (Photo 1) but you can use a circular or hand saw with a guide jig. The next step is to rip cut the board to 16" width. I used the fence on my table saw as a guide. (Photo 2) Save the 2" x 24" and 8" x 30" pieces for building a fence.
Clamp your board onto saw horses or a table edge. Position the mounting plate 4-3/4" from the end of the board with it's length running across the short span and center it. (Photo 3) Apply the carpet tape around the guide and press firmly into place. Remove the backing paper from the tape and center the fiber board template on the mounting plate. There will be about 1/16" opening around the mounting plate. Press the template firmly down onto your board. Remember all set up is done with the router unplugged. Install the special guide bushing in your router, and install the 1/2" router bit. (Photo 4) Position your router in the lower left corner so the guide bushing is against the templates two sides. Lower the bit until it contacts the wood and lock it in place. Using a 1/2" and a 3/8" set up bar stacked to equal 7/8" set the depth stop. This will allow the cutter to extend just past the bottom of your board for a clean cut. Release the plunge lock so the bit rises into the router base. At this point I suggest you get someone to help hold the board in place. Even when tightly clamped I had some movement and had BrianS hold the board to prevent this. Be sure you are both wearing safety glasses and hearing protection, check to be sure the router switch is in the off position and plug the router in. Turn on the power and plunge the bit through the board. Lock the router in the down position and follow the template clockwise around the hole. (Photo 5) The inside will drop free of the board when the cut is complete. Raise the bit, shut the router off and unplug it. Using the Allen wrench provided remove the spacer ring from the guide bushing. Position the router in the lower left corner, lower and lock the router so the bit is touching the black lip. Use the lip of your mounting plate to adjust the depth stop. Release the plunge so the bit raises up into the router base. Again have someone hold the board to prevent movement. Check that the router switch is in the off position, plug the router in and turn the router on. Follow the template in a clockwise direction until the lip has been cut. Raise the bit back into the router base, turn the router off and unplug it. Clean away all the dust and set the mounting plate into the opening. The plate should set just below the table surface. There will be about 1/32" play from end to end and side to side. This is normal. Mark the location of the 4 corner holes onto the lip. I used a transfer punch but a nail would work fine. Lift the plate out and set it aside. Drill the 5/16" holes just deep enough for the magnets to sit flush in the corners. Use the Allen wrench to check the hole depth at the side of the hole and compare it to the magnet. Your board should now look like Photo 6. Insert the magnets into the holes and lightly tap into place with the punch and hammer. If you have a magnet that is too low you can use a 1/8" drill bit and drill through from the other side to push the magnet out. A drop of epoxy in the hole should cure this problem. When your magnets are flush put the mounting plate back into the opening. Remove the template and carpet tape. Apply the thread locker to the Allen screws and turn them into the corner holes with the Allen wrench provided. Start off a bit low until all the screws are in place and then level the plate to the table surface. The input side can be a hair lower than the table surface, and the output side can be a hair above the table surface. This will let your material pass easily through. Let the plate sit until the thread locker sets up per the instructions. I prefer to use Vibratite for this. It is the only thread locker that can be readjusted and after 24 hours it re locks the fastener. Photo 7 shows the finished table top in the back of Brian's van for the trip home.

Why 16" x 30"? This is the size of the Router Workshop table top. It will handle any job you throw at it.

Why no T tracks? You can clamp any accessories in place or add the tracks if you choose to. They are really not needed.

What about building a fence or table cabinet? These will be covered in other threads.


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Mike,

A very useful thread that will be referenced long into the future. I like your no-nonsense, keep it simple approach...this should help jump start many new to this type of woodworking and the portability is a bonus.

The cost is actually probably less when you discount for the fact that you will be using that double sided tape and thread lock on many projects down the road.

I also like the use of the template...it takes some of the mystery out of making the recess. I made my own template by: 1) drawing the shape on a piece of scrap, 2) drilling the corners with a bit of appropriate radius, 3) sawing to within 1/16" of the sides, 4) clamping a straight edge along each line, 5) using a flush trim bit to "connect" the corners. The resulting template can be then used to route the recess with a pattern matching bit. I was a wee bit shy and tested the template on another piece of scrap. It was a good tight, level fit and so I routed my table top with confidence. Did this all just last evening and hope to post pics soon.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I went about installing my plate in a very similar manner. This will guide many a router owner. Well done. Isn't double sided tape great!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Well written, very useful. Now if I can just remember to reference someone here!!


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## wathman (Jul 16, 2009)

I just finished my table tonight, that phenolic impregnated baltic birch sounds really great for a surface, though I ended up building mine out of re-purposed melamine desktop material. Free is better than 29.99  When I think it's time for a new table, I could definitely see myself using that. I think it was better for me to use the melamine since my routing skills aren't so hot yet, and I did make a few small mistakes where the router bit off more than I wanted it to. Now that I've done all the major steps once, I'd be less likely to ruin a better tabletop surface. 

Even if I didn't have the extra melamine laying around, I just saw that Lowes is selling 97"x16" melamine shelving (3/4" thickness) for $18. With that much material, I could have completely failed twice and still have enough to make a tabletop. Taking note of advice found here, I attached a length of poplar under my tabletop to act as a stiffening board and help reduce sagging over time. Since my table is already on the small side, I don't think it will sag much. 

I'm really looking forward to the guide on building a fence. I hope it includes some ideas for dust management since after this project, I can really see that I need it


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Do you find it neccessary to use external devices to hold a plate down? My old table is now about 17 yeasrs old, both plates that I have had have been held down by the weight of the router and nothing else and nothing has ever moved.


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## wathman (Jul 16, 2009)

If you are referring to the 4 corner screws, I think they are simply leveling screws that give you some room for adjustment to make sure the plate lies level. I put in a similar setup on my table. The weight of the router does indeed hold it in place, though my plate would shake like a wobbly restaurant table until I adjusted the 4 leveling screws at the corners.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Didn't do any of that either.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Derek, the installation kit is designed for the Rousseau mounting plate. (Trend sells a copy of this) The Harbor Freight mounting plate measures almost the same. The HF mounting plate comes with the corner magnets that the adjusting screws ride on. Rousseau includes what they call corner snuggers which are plastic clips to stop any movement of the plate in the hole and height adjusters. I do not consider either of these hold downs, and the plate is free to be lifted out at all times.


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## Pat Harris (Aug 18, 2008)

Hi guys, I want to mount my router in my long Delta Unisaw Extension Table. I would like to have a nice router lift with large plate and plenty of options. I currently own a Ryobi 3 1/4 hp and a smaller Porter Cable. I have the Ryobi mounted on a Hartsville router table complete with fence etc., BUT. . .I don't like it and want to be able to raise and lower the router from above and would like the extra shop space by eliminating the router table/cabinet. 
1. I would apprecaite susggestins as to a nice router lift that will hold up well.
2. When I go to cut the opening in my extension table, how far back should I positon 
the lift and plate and do most of you add a miter gage & hold down tracks , in front of the plate?

Pat Harris
Lexington, SC


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Not being familiar with the eqipment, I cannot comment on most of your questions, with the exception of the mitre guage track,*put one **in*. you will find it very much needed when you are using it.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Pat Harris said:


> 2. When I go to cut the opening in my extension table, how far back should I positon
> the lift and plate and do most of you add a miter gage & hold down tracks , in front of the plate?
> 
> Pat Harris
> Lexington, SC


Pat;
I put my insert hole in the middle and to the left of center. I can mount my Incra jig that way.
I use T-tracks and a miter track. They will come in handy at times, although many say you don't need them at all. If you question the need, don't install them. You can always add them later. Here's mine.


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## Dust blaster (Oct 26, 2009)

*Trying to decide*

I have been looking the vertical and horizontal table plans and I am having a tough time deciding which way to go. This plan looks like something I could do. I am a little leary of trying a horizontal table my first time.

Ed


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## fudi50 (Oct 21, 2009)

I need two posts this is one


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## Melvin (Oct 30, 2009)

Well I am doing kind of the same thing you are except I am building a cabinet under the extension and putting it all on rollers, mabey we can help each other, good luck, cya, Mel


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## fudi50 (Oct 21, 2009)

Mike, I apreciate your posting and what appears a no nonsense comprehensive way to build a router table top, I will at a later date build such a top to compliment my garage come workshop
Let me add after my frustration of postings as I mentioned else where, these forums like others I subscribe to are the most informative ways to seek help for project you may undertake
Again thanks
David


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## Shopmania (Aug 19, 2010)

Looks great! Good job, and nice small budget!


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## dstoneneal (Oct 25, 2009)

*Caution on the Harbor Freight insert.*

One caution on the Harbor Freight router insert. I bought one and upon installation found mine was not flat; it was bowed/dished out in the center. Since most of my router work could also be done with a chainsaw (and sometimes it looks the part) this is not an issue for me. Serious users might want to check to confirm any insert is truely flat and that it has not developed a bow over time - either from manufacturing or from the weight of the router suspended from the insert.


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## bill4282 (Sep 6, 2010)

my harbor freight doesn't carry the plate and they had a difficult time even understanding what I was trying to buy. I guess I have to order online, if possible. First, I'll try the local Woodcraft, which provides excellent service and will do some rudimentary training on stuff when I buy it for the first time.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bill, the HF mounting plate is only available to order online, on sale now for $15. This plate is flat in design but many do not meet specs. The Rousseau plate which the HF plate and many others are styled after is not flat, it is slightly convex which causes the wood to always pass the bit at exactly the same height. It is the only plate which is not flat; it is also the most popular plate in the world.(Also sold under the Trend name) Woodcraft carries this plate, the mounting template and the installation kits.


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## bill4282 (Sep 6, 2010)

already bought the Rousseau at Woodcraft. They had another make in Phenolic and I asked what the difference was besides the extra $10 over the Rousseau. The guy said basically none and recommended the Rousseau. Didn't buy the template, thought I'd wing it. After much high level thinking, I'm going back for the template


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## orionwoods (Nov 2, 2010)

exactly the thread I was looking for when I joined!

Thanks!


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## ScottR (Jan 8, 2011)

I can't find a Rousseau RM3509-T Template mounting kit but, I do see a Rousseau 3509 9-Inch x 12-Inch x 3/8-Inch Deluxe Router Base Plate for $38.95 and the Rockler phenolic impregnated baltic birch plywood, 3/4" x 24" x 32" $39.99. At this point we're already talking $78.28 + tax for Rockler. I found no Harbor Freight router mounting plate off or online. Still just under $80 for the main parts isn't bad.

Let's add Incra TTRACKREG36 36-Inch T-Track $13.58 and INCRA Build-It Knobs, 1/4-20 x 1 1/2" Bolts, Washers (Set of 8) $10.99 we're now at $102.85, still not too bad I guess.



> Drill the 5/16" holes just deep enough for the magnets to sit flush in the corners.


 Where are these magnets coming from that you are talking about?

The thread is great but I think I'm missing some things here or the instructions and parts list needs updated.


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## sanart (Oct 18, 2009)

Hi Scott, Rockler carries as I recall a 'T" track kit, 17 pieces for like $19.99. A 48" track and all the knobs and "T" bolts you will need. Was a good deal, and was on sale recently. 
HTH.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I have mounted my router off centre. It can be a little more versatile and support more of the job. I route a lot of guitar bodies. I also use an Incra Ultra and a lot of table area could be wasted due to this device if not properly sited. I cannot bear to buy knobs. I laminate,turn, or route wooden ones with threaded inserts. They can be so expensive to buy. I would rather buy router bits instead.


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## baileyedition (Feb 2, 2011)

Didnt know if this might be a good spot to post this link but it feels like it might be. 28 free router table designs, I just finished going through these and there is really only one or two that I like and they are of course the most elaborate but there are alot of simple no nonsense tables as well. At minimum an array of options promoting a ton of ideas. 

One other thing i also liked was the mention of everything from no plate to using an 3/8" acrylic plate. Much cheaper than buying a pre-made plate and offers up the option for light penetration from a light installed in the router containment box. At any rate worth checking out and giving a guy confidence that an effective table can be built without shelling out the cash for all the pre-made items from various suppliers. 

here is the link ToolCrib.com's Ultimate Guide: 28 Free Router Table Plans |

If someone thinks this should be placed elsewhere either let me know or let the moderator know, thank you.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Paul,
you can build a table of anything yo like, my first one was a piece of scrylic sheet with a batten screwed to it to clamp in a vice, I mounted a trim router on it.
Some 15to 18 years agop Ibuilt one on an old cabinet with a kitchen worktop on it, I still have it, I used to begin with a piece of alloy for a plate at the start, total build about £4:00 sterling.
Derek.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

3/8" acrylic works, but you can't use larger bits with it unless you open the hole up. Then you're stuck with the big hole that causes problems when you use a small bit. An insert plate with removable rings is the best way to go.
Too bad HF doesn't sell their plates anymore.


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## marter1229 (Oct 6, 2010)

Great thread.
And great link to the router table plans

Thanks to all!:agree:

Terry


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## baileyedition (Feb 2, 2011)

AxlMyk said:


> 3/8" acrylic works, but you can't use larger bits with it unless you open the hole up. Then you're stuck with the big hole that causes problems when you use a small bit. An insert plate with removable rings is the best way to go.
> Too bad HF doesn't sell their plates anymore.


I figured with my little colt and a circle jig i could rout out a lip on the the larger diameter hole and use 1/8" plexi and make some inserts for smaller sized bits. of course this would mean having to counter sink 3 holes for small screws as a method of installation of these inserts but would allow for their use. At any rate i do plan to go with an aluminum plate but i like the idea when on a budget and in need. 

Derek, you made me smile, i know one can get by with just about any flat surface and a table will only be as complicated as one decides to make it. I have a tendency to start out thinking simple and then go straight to the extremely elaborate and potentially unnecessary I kind figure if im gonna build it, why not overbuild it and make it something to stand back and admire, even if im the only one that will do so Functionality is all thats necessary but i like to include form also. 

I finally got enough cash together to get going on a table that will fit my bill, just sorting through a few more plan ideas, i did find another table link ill post up here that may be worth a look for some of us, and im sure ill by nights end ill have a couple more. 

heres the latest find Ultimate Router Table


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

I have not read this entire thread and I should. So, is it possible to install a router insert plate and have it perfectly level with the router table?

KR


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi KR

Yes. if done right no screws needed...to make it so.

===





Kelly Rittgers said:


> I have not read this entire thread and I should. So, is it possible to install a router insert plate and have it perfectly level with the router table?
> 
> KR


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Place your mounting plate in position, temporarily fix strips of 1/2 timber around the plate,(I use hot melt glue), and with a plunge router with a top bearing mortise cutter set to the exact thickness of your plate, rout around the edges, then cut out the centre with a jigsaw, your plate will fit exactly.
Derek.


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## mperring (May 3, 2011)

Just bought t track bit to do that.

Mike


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## fencer (Apr 3, 2009)

*dewalt 618 on a rousseau plate*

Hello Mike ( and all)
I'm new to this forum and this is my 2nd post. I recently bought a Dewalt 618 at lowes (display model for $50!) and a table from another woodworker with a rousseau plate. This may be a dumb question, but where can I find instructions on mounting that router to that plate?

TIA
Jeff


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jeff

Here's just one way of many 

Ron Fox's Routing Tips

Ron's Hints and Tips

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/video/router_base_plate_video

========



fencer said:


> Hello Mike ( and all)
> I'm new to this forum and this is my 2nd post. I recently bought a Dewalt 618 at lowes (display model for $50!) and a table from another woodworker with a rousseau plate. This may be a dumb question, but where can I find instructions on mounting that router to that plate?
> 
> TIA
> Jeff


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

fencer said:


> Hello Mike ( and all)
> I'm new to this forum and this is my 2nd post. I recently bought a Dewalt 618 at lowes (display model for $50!) and a table from another woodworker with a rousseau plate. This may be a dumb question, but where can I find instructions on mounting that router to that plate?
> 
> TIA
> Jeff


You need to use a centreing pin , mount this in your router with the plate already over it, then retract your router so that the pin is trapped in the hole in the middle, this will ensure that your router is centre to the plate, you can now align your router square to the plate and mark the fixing holes, as they say "Semples"


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Welcome Jeff. The easiest way to mount your router to a Rousseau plate is in another STICKY thread. Click here to view it: http://www.routerforums.com/table-m...ng-your-router-mounting-plate.html#post122017


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## chopnhack (Nov 11, 2009)

Has anyone used the phenolic plywood recently? Alot of reviews on rockler and woodcraft mention that its not as durable as I had imagined. Maybe some HPL over ply would be a better choice?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Yes John, HPL top and bottom on Baltic birch plywood is as good as it gets. No problems here with the coated plywood so far. Keep in mind that this thread is to get people started quickly and inexpensively.


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## chopnhack (Nov 11, 2009)

Mike said:


> Yes John, HPL top and bottom on Baltic birch plywood is as good as it gets. No problems here with the coated plywood so far. Keep in mind that this thread is to get people started quickly and inexpensively.


Understood, the point I bring up is that there are many cabinet shops that have been closing due to slow sales and along with that comes an inventory of laminates. I bought some heavy duty wilson art HPl for about $20/sheet (4x8) - may be more economical and durable ;-)


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## woodtherapist (Nov 23, 2010)

Mike, 

Your post is excellent! I built my own custom router table back in April after getting a brand new HitachiM12VE router. 

I lucked out and got the same router plates from Harbor Freight's website for about $15 (I ended up getting 2 because of the low price! I noticed that MLCS Woodworking sells the same router plate and they even sell a masonite template for routing out the recessed router plate opening. The kit works very well and was very simple to set up and use. 

Building my router table was a major feat for me and I was very nervous about "screwing up" the table top I had worked too hard to make...I just couldn't think of messing up a good piece of Formica! I was going to use scraps to make a template for routing out the recess but I settled on spending the money to get a template when using my homemade template on a scrap of MDF didn't work. If anyone is apprehensive about making the router plate opening buy a template...it is worth it! Also, practice with the template by using a scrap of plywood or MDF (beware of dust) before proceeding with the actual table top. 

Just thought I would share with everyone!

Corey


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Corey, the HF plate has been discontinued and that is a shame. Both the HF and MLCS plates are modeled after the Rousseau plate which is slightly convex.(The only one that is) I understand exactly how you felt on that first table; I felt the same waqy on my first as seen below. The fence on the table came off the table in the second photo which has the fence I built on it. The last photo is my current table: a Router Workshop table. Rick talked me into trying it and the "Keep it simple" methods and I will never switch back.


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## Router Newbie (Jun 12, 2011)

Hi Frank,
I am about to make (tomorrow morning) a bench mounted router table, but I am not sure how to cut the insert and the top. I have a piece of 8mm perspex 210 x 290 mm in size. I purchased an offcut piece of MDF 600mm x 400mm which I guess is 22 - 25mm thick. I do not have any corner templates. I need to know how to round the corners of the perspex plate, the hole in the centre and how to measure and cut the hole and recess for the plate to fit in the MDF. I am using a lightweight Bosch POF 500 router with 1/4 inch bits.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

VIDEO — No–nonsense Router Table— Inset a Router Base Plate | Popular Woodworking Magazine

=======



Router Newbie said:


> Hi Frank,
> I am about to make (tomorrow morning) a bench mounted router table, but I am not sure how to cut the insert and the top. I have a piece of 8mm perspex 210 x 290 mm in size. I purchased an offcut piece of MDF 600mm x 400mm which I guess is 22 - 25mm thick. I do not have any corner templates. I need to know how to round the corners of the perspex plate, the hole in the centre and how to measure and cut the hole and recess for the plate to fit in the MDF. I am using a lightweight Bosch POF 500 router with 1/4 inch bits.


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## Router Newbie (Jun 12, 2011)

Hi Bob,
Thanks for the quick response with the video link. My router takes only one guide bush which gives an offset from the cutter of no more than 5mm which would be too small to provide adequate support for the plate. I guess I can measure the jig to give a larger recess, but am a little concerned that it will not be a perfect fit doing it this way. Any ideas on cutting the centre hole in the perspex?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Stan

5mm will do fine for the support, it's almost .500" if you think about it and that is just fine..(5mm over hang on the sides .)

" centre hole in the perspex" just put on some masking tape and draw a line from corner to corner and that at the " X " point ,drill a 1/16" hole, that will be your center hole spot..
If you plate has round corners now just mark in from the sides at the 1/2 way point and do the same thing at the " T " mark so to speak.. 

=====




Router Newbie said:


> Hi Bob,
> Thanks for the quick response with the video link. My router takes only one guide bush which gives an offset from the cutter of no more than 5mm which would be too small to provide adequate support for the plate. I guess I can measure the jig to give a larger recess, but am a little concerned that it will not be a perfect fit doing it this way. Any ideas on cutting the centre hole in the perspex?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

<-- Getting BJ a cup of coffee! 5mm is not enough support for a full sized router; you should have 12mm support all the way around.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike 

Here's one that's only 1/4" wide, true it's not for a full size router but it would support one very easy 

Plus the Veritas plate that has very small lip for support.
Veritas® Base Plate/Table Insert - Lee Valley Tools

I think BigJim has a big router hanging from his Veritas plate.

Now you got me thinking ,what is the lip support on the OP table for the 11" x 11" sq.router mounting plate.. ?


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Mike said:


> <-- Getting BJ a cup of coffee! 5mm is not enough support for a full sized router; you should have 12mm support all the way around.


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## allbarknobite (Sep 15, 2011)

Hi Guys,
I Cut a MLCS plate into a Rockler Table top, using the same double guide and template.

The first time, the cutout was slightly too small for the plate, so I loosened the adapter plate on PC plunge router and slightly offset the 1/2 inch bit. A second go-around and the router plate fit perfectly. 

I did return the adapter plate to dead zero again, before I forgot it was offset.
Mark


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## jerrag (Sep 23, 2008)

I converted an old TV stand to a router table. It looks good, and from what I have done with it, works OK. Made the fence out of MDF then faced it off with some hardwood, I have plans of putting some laminate on the fence, the top is finished with a black hard finish, not sure what exactly it is but it is slick and the wood moves nicely over it.

The problem I had was with my mounting of the plate and cutting of my slots for the t-track etc. I picked up a new 9/16 inch pattern bit, and made my own template using 1x4 inch hard wood. All my pattern cuts were too TIGHT and NOTHING fit. My beginner attempt to fix this ended up with everything but the plate too large! So I cut a bit more off and made inserts to run alongside the slots so I could get my t-slots inserted to guide the fence. Looks like cr*p but it does work. Any idea what the heck I did wrong with the setup? I bought a plate from Oak Park on their going out of business sale and used that, then I find that all the brass that I had picked up to fit my Craftsman routers were too small for the large hole in the base plate. Soooo I ended up buying more brass in the "right" size for the base. My other option would have been to buy another base but none of them would have fit my hole and I would have had to either put a new top on or start over. And I was SO proud to have picked up the heavy duty tv stand from the State Surplus it had come from a college so was nice looking and came with HUGE rollers on bottom so it rolls around even on the dirt floor of my garage (in our state our garages are taxed as "living space" if they have wood or cement floors).


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## johnny r (Dec 12, 2011)

This is just kind the of info that is invaluable to someone just getting started in the hobby. Just what I have been looking for. I ordered the plans for the Oak Park table the other day along with their clamps and guides. Thanks again , looking forward to getting started


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## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

*Who Thought of the idea "Tape on 2 sides?"*

Hello Mike,
Who thought of double sided tape?
Was it 3M who wanted customers to buy more tape ?
Inquiring minds want to know...



Mike Wingate said:


> I went about installing my plate in a very similar manner. This will guide many a router owner. Well done. Isn't double sided tape great!


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## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

Are you sure on the Rocker price of $ 18.00 ?

I see the 17 piece Universal T-track kit for $ 35.00 ....

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

17-Piece Universal T-Track Kit - Rockler Woodworking Tools

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++


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## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

I used a woodpeckers template that was cheep from the woodworkers show. It was easy to figure it out. I used steel rivets under the leveling screws therefor no tearout and it makes a easy job of it.


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## bdanuloff (Jan 1, 2013)

Mike said:


> Object: Build a router table top and install a mounting plate for maximum value. This project is for beginning skill level and up.
> 
> Materials required:
> 1 Rockler phenolic impregnated baltic birch plywood, 3/4" x 24" x 32".
> ...


Mike,
Nice job describing the process. I am wondering where you got the Harbor Freight mounting plate? I don't seem to find one on their web site. I just mounted the cast iron routing table top from a Harbor Freight free standing router I have to the extension wing of my craftsman table saw, basically to save space in my workshop. The table insert opening in the cast iron top is an odd size (11 1/2 X 14 1/2). I can't find an insert plate that size and I was going to try and make one out of MDF or phenolic plywood. I would prefer to buy one that fits this opening so I can use insert rings when needed. Any ideas or suggestions?


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Hi Bill. Harbour Freight used to sell the plates via online orders only, unfortunately they no longer sell the router plate. Grizzly was selling them, but they were on back order for a while. Router plate


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## gcpt (Nov 19, 2006)

*Guide Bushing OD please.*



Mike said:


> Object: Build a router table top and install a mounting plate for maximum value. This project is for beginning skill level and up.
> 
> Materials required:
> 1 Rockler phenolic impregnated baltic birch plywood, 3/4" x 24" x 32".
> ...


Mike what are the OD's for the guide bushings please. Great article.

Gordon


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Gordon, I will measure them today and update this response with the answer.


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## bdanuloff (Jan 1, 2013)

Hi Brian,
Thanks for the update. I couldn't find the HF plate anywhere on their site. I will look at the Grizzly plate.
Bill


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## justinhillpac (May 9, 2013)

Mike, thanks for this great tutorial. I am just getting into woodworking and will be building my first table. I plan to follow these instructions, but am waiting to see more about how you use your fence in the other post in the sticky section. I like the idea of the fence that Norm uses on the NYW and was planning on building something similar to that one. 

It seems that almost everyone in the pictures has a larger table, do you ever run into any problems with the smaller 16x30 size? Also it seems that their fences are longer and go parallel to the long edge not the short edge (16") of the table. I would think this would give you more stability, but I still have a lot to learn.

Thanks again!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Justin, if you are routing long moldings then having the fence lengthwise could be an asset. I have never needed more table or fence length for any of the projects I have worked on. The critical area on any router table is where the bit is. Having 8" before and after the bit gives plenty of support. If you are working on pieces longer than 4' you can always set up something to support the work as it leaves the table. In most cases this size of piece would be routed with a fence clamped in place or an edge guide free hand.


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## justinhillpac (May 9, 2013)

Thanks again for the quick reply! I had some 3/4" Melamine that is already cut to 24x30" so I will cut it down and use the extra for the fence as you suggested.


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## thm33578 (Aug 7, 2012)

nice!!!


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## marvmn (Dec 7, 2013)

any chance of this post on a pdf/word doc. i find them useful to take in the garage


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Printable version....*



marvmn said:


> any chance of this post on a pdf/word doc. i find them useful to take in the garage


If you click on 'thread tools" you can print out the thread or maybe save as a .pdf or doc version.

I have not tried, but the facility is there.
If you download and install "cute PDF writer" you can save any printable document as a pdf file.


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## almost there (Apr 12, 2011)

thanks for your expertise here on router table tops. I had become annoyed with having to remove my bosch 1617 evs router motor from its mount connected to my bosch ra1180 router table whenever I needed to change bits, because the router housing is really made for hand held routing and motor does not move up to be level with table top, as would be with router lifts such as jessem's router lift II. And I had become annoyed that the spring nut that keeps my above the table height adjustment bolt working correctly, kept failing. So I looked into buying something that has miter track that my incra I-box would work correctly in without having to modify the I-box miter slot bar, which is required with my bosch router table, as mine has slightly larger than standard miter slot. I had narrowed my interest to three brand of complete router table systems: incra, kreg, and jessem. During my research the material for the table top became perplexing-a dead flat mdf laminate top or a durable, not so perfectly flat, solid phenolic. Next came method by which the mounting plate is held in the table top. Some tops have rabbeted lips and another uses flush holes with plastic thingies screwed into the bottom of their mdf table.

I have concluded it is my best interest to build my own router table top using many of the materials you [Mike] have listed. Thanks again. lee


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## Blakewnelson94 (Feb 21, 2014)

Great write up! Super helpful


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## kevin887 (Mar 11, 2014)

Mike said:


> Object: Build a router table top and install a mounting plate for maximum value. This project is for beginning skill level and up.
> 
> Materials required:
> 1 Rockler phenolic impregnated Baltic birch plywood, 3/4" x 24" x 32".
> ...


Looks great! Good job, Great article.


Thanks


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## robinrs (Apr 18, 2014)

*Building a router table top*



Mike said:


> Object: Build a router table top and install a mounting plate for maximum value. This project is for beginning skill level and up.
> 
> Materials required:
> 1 Rockler phenolic impregnated Baltic birch plywood, 3/4" x 24" x 32".
> ...


Hello Mike 
This looks like a great way to get some hands on experience and get a real good router table


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Great thread . I am sure I am going to learn volumes here .
Guys I had to google "top bearing mortise cutter " as I've never used one . I will try this idea , thanks!


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## Lidcombe (Nov 16, 2014)

Hi 
Found this site a couple of months ago and have been inspired to build a dedicated router table.
Just fitted the router this morning and given it a test run.
Even put in a router lift, very agricultural, but it seems to work- a 1 1/2" wooden thread with 3 turns/inch fitted under the router on a shelf 15" below the top.
I love the craftsmanship of some of the work presented. They are furniture! Well done.
Thanks for all the great ideas. Have a lot to do to finish mine - a work in progress.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Hello Lidcome,

Now you've got your router in a table the world is your Oyster.

Do remember to lock your router after you have adjusted the height,
I have made the mistake of not doing so, as I am sure have many others,
and the router, due to vibration etc, has moved from your pre-set position 
and ruined the work-piece.

Good luck with your future projects,

Derek.


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## Lidcombe (Nov 16, 2014)

Derek,
Thanks for the tip.
I have a lot of learning to do.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

G'day Tony, welcome to the forum.


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## knuxiey001 (Jan 15, 2015)

Thanks for the great information. I'm always looking for fresh ideas and can't wait to give some of these a try. Personally, I like to take cheap or free wood and "reclaim" it into cool woodworking projects, like island counters, tables, etc. Here's an example of what I mean:

[link removed]


regards,
knuxie =)


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

I was unable to view the pictures on this so I sorta got them a different way and put them in line with the text. Dad always told me if I borrowed a tool I should give it back in better condition than I found it, so here it is:


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Thanks for posting the PDF , I can't get the pictures on the old threads to load no matter how long I wait. I get a notice with a Marlin Perkins and a Quote "It's Dead, Jim" on the screen.

Herb


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

Herb Stoops said:


> Thanks for posting the PDF , I can't get the pictures on the old threads to load no matter how long I wait. I get a notice with a Marlin Perkins and a Quote "It's Dead, Jim" on the screen.
> 
> Herb


You're welcome Herb. I just edited it and replaced the doc with one having links to where one can get the things listed. The price is also sadly $126.50 by my figuring, plus any shipping. Maybe people can find better places to get things than I.


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

I've been gathering parts for this and thought I would report on my progress.

The phenolic faced plywood arrived. Woodcraft (link in PDF up there) is still the only place I have found it.

The Grizzly Mounting Plate was as we all expected.

I purchased the Rousseau RM3509-T Template mounting kit based on Mike's recommendation. The parts list in their instructions indicates that the corner snuggers come with it, they do not. I called Rousseau and they tell me the corner snuggers come with their plate. I bring this up because Mike's first post with the original instructions say:



> Insert the magnets into the holes and lightly tap into place with the punch and hammer. If you have a magnet that is too low you can use a 1/8" drill bit and drill through from the other side to push the magnet out. A drop of epoxy in the hole should cure this problem. When your magnets are flush put the mounting plate back into the opening. Remove the template and carpet tape. Apply the thread locker to the Allen screws and turn them into the corner holes with the Allen wrench provided. Start off a bit low until all the screws are in place and then level the plate to the table surface. The input side can be a hair lower than the table surface, and the output side can be a hair above the table surface. This will let your material pass easily through. Let the plate sit until the thread locker sets up per the instructions. I prefer to use Vibratite for this. It is the only thread locker that can be readjusted and after 24 hours it re locks the fastener.


This confused me because I have no adjustment / leveller in the mounting kit or the plate. The magnets mentioned in the instructions are apparently from a Harbor Freight plate as Mike describes in this post:



> Derek, the installation kit is designed for the Rousseau mounting plate. (Trend sells a copy of this) The Harbor Freight mounting plate measures almost the same. The HF mounting plate comes with the corner magnets that the adjusting screws ride on. Rousseau includes what they call corner snuggers which are plastic clips to stop any movement of the plate in the hole and height adjusters. I do not consider either of these hold downs, and the plate is free to be lifted out at all times.


Since I wanted to do it the easy way the first time I went ahead and purchased the Rousseau plate so I'd have the snuggers. I figure if I have one with "all the parts I need" then I would know how one could make the Grizzly plate work. I'll report back on my progress.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

LBussy said:


> I've been gathering parts for this and thought I would report on my progress.
> 
> The phenolic faced plywood arrived.


Sounds like your getting serious . Looking forward to seeing your build . I'm hoping you start a new build thread when you get started


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

That reminds me. There was some talk about the placement of the router on the board, being the way (someone) did it in (sine router table name.) I think it was a router television show? Anyone know what that was and/or a pointer to any plans which may exist?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

LBussy said:


> That reminds me. There was some talk about the placement of the router on the board, being the way (someone) did it in (sine router table name.) I think it was a router television show? Anyone know what that was and/or a pointer to any plans which may exist?


Lee I forgot your dimensions but I could post my Incra table, as it would show you where the front edge of the router table would be in relation to the plate and miter slot


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

This is what Mike demonstrated/documented. I found where he said it in the instructions:



> Why 16" x 30"? This is the size of the Router Workshop table top. It will handle any job you throw at it.


So, I was looking for how a guy finds the "Router Workshop" plans.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Lee it's all a matter of what feels good to you . My Incra is very deep because of the fence system , but it would still give you an idea where they put there miter slot and plate


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

Oh I get that. Since it was mentioned I just wanted to have a little more context. I know one cannot incorporate EVERYTHING but it's nice to see the ideas. I just need to get the thing mounted so I can make the next one.


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## old coasty (Aug 15, 2014)

As I recall, there was another thread where someone said it should be 1/3 from the back of the table. Stick added 1/3 from the left end to get max fence before the cut.,

Mike, you have it in the end, is that because you don't do much with long work, and work more freehand?

So the question is where to put it.


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

Well I cut my hole. That may not sound serious to a lot of you but I have not touched a router in > 15 years. So, I figured a table was the best idea of course. The issue there is you have to do template cutting to get there. I had one little "oops" but It's done:










That full size router plus a template is unwieldy when you are basically new all over again. If I had to do it again I might use a piece of hardboard in the center to help balance the router. Anyway, I can scratch that off my list I guess (after I put in the levellers/snuggers).

For now I centered it in that full sheet of phenolic/plywood. I figure if/when I trim it, I can shift it to one side if I still want to.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

old coasty said:


> As I recall, there was another thread where someone said it should be 1/3 from the back of the table. Stick added 1/3 from the left end to get max fence before the cut.,
> 
> Mike, you have it in the end, is that because you don't do much with long work, and work more freehand?
> 
> So the question is where to put it.


Hi Bob. Just spotted this so will reply since that table top in the pic is in the back of my van. That is a copy of the Router Workshop table top. It certainly is NOT the only place to put the insert, but I, and Mike, have found that it works for us. I've found that most of the work done on the table can be done on the short side. ie edging a board, rabbets, etc. If I need more room, or a bigger work surface, I just move the fence to the other side of the bit and then I have the larger table are to work on. This the advantage of just clamping the fence to the table, rather than using t-track to fasten it. One can move the fence where ever one wants. As long as the work passes the bit from right to left, it works just fine.

Again, these are MY preferences, and certainly not the ONLY way to do this.


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## old coasty (Aug 15, 2014)

BrianS said:


> Hi Bob. Just spotted this so will reply since that table top in the pic is in the back of my van. That is a copy of the Router Workshop table top. It certainly is NOT the only place to put the insert, but I, and Mike, have found that it works for us. I've found that most of the work done on the table can be done on the short side. ie edging a board, rabbets, etc. If I need more room, or a bigger work surface, I just move the fence to the other side of the bit and then I have the larger table are to work on. This the advantage of just clamping the fence to the table, rather than using t-track to fasten it. One can move the fence where ever one wants. As long as the work passes the bit from right to left, it works just fine.
> 
> Again, these are MY preferences, and certainly not the ONLY way to do this.


Brian,

Thanks for the info, kind'a what I thought.

Bob


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

I got to a point in one of my projects where I went back to finish the router table top. I have both a Rousseau and a Grizzly plate and I thought I might mention this before someone else runs into it.

The Rousseau plate and the template recommended here are 9x12. The plate just fits in there nicely.

The Grizzly plate is about 9-1/16 x 12-3/32. It does not fit in the hole made by the Rousseau template. In my case the 9-1/6 width worked bu the length was a little bit too much.

Just a note for those who may be following this.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

A light touch of a sanding belt on each end of the Grizzly plate should solve this Lee. Mine swap with no problems.


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

Mike said:


> A light touch of a sanding belt on each end of the Grizzly plate should solve this Lee. Mine swap with no problems.


Oh sure, i'm not too worried. I just wanted to be sure people know. When a person new to woodworking hits something like that it's pretty frustrating - especially if you don't have a power sander.


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## LBussy (May 31, 2015)

I went ahead and made a sketch-up of the router table and bench that's this top is based upon. My question a few posts back about where to put the hole for the plate (and why) was answered as I worked on this. When working with a 9" x 12" plate, the plate is placed centered front to back (2" from each edge) and 4" from the left side. It is like this because the Router Workshop plans have room for the router there, and a small tray for bits under the other side. This is probably MORE than obvious to a lot of you, but since I had not seen one of those and did not have the plans, I was running on guesses. 

Here's a snap of the sketchup I did:










Hopefully that will help someone else who may be as confused as I was. :wink:

Also, while looking at the cutsheet, I noticed it sorta sucked. There was no good way to cut the sheet edge to edge into manageable sizes. I re-did the layout (with room for saw kerfs) for those of you who have the plans:










Hope that helps someone.


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