# Walnut Coffee Table



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

It has been a long time since I have been here and posted anything. Things in my life are getting back to what is used to be prior to my wife getting sick.

I have started a coffee table using Amercian Black Walnut. Mortise and Tennon joinery was used to join the rails upper and lower.

I really like the mortising machine and the mortise chiesels I bought. It made it very easy to clean the joints up. 

Sketchup was used to design the table. I bought the CD by Robert Lang from Popular Woodworking Magazine to learn how to use it. I spent hours with it but it was really nice to see how the joints would turn out by using the x-ray view. Essentially this allows you to look inside to see the position and depth of both tennons and mortsies.

Step 1

I bought the Walnut 5/4 stock and 8/4. I made the legs 3x3 so I had to glue two pieces together and then cut it down to size. Rails were made by using the 5/4 stock.

The bandsaw was used to rip the 8/4 and I was glad I had it. Makes for a safer cut and no chance of kick back.

Step 2

Once the pieces were all milled I had to make the taper on the outside faces of the legs. I cut one taper using the jig I built and cut the legs on the bandsaw. I quickly realized this was a stupid thing to do because now it made it more difficult to drill the mortises. SO I used the left over wedge to support the leg to cut the mortise.

Step 3

Once all the mortises were laid out and drilled I then cut the remaining tapers. I then clamped them onto the bench and used the Veritas bench plane to shave off the saw marks. What a beautiful plane to use and feel in your hands, truly a piece of art. 

Step 4

Cut all the rails to length. The I had to cut the tennons. I used a tennoning jig made by General and it worked fawlessly. I was able to dial in the fit so it was perfect.

Step 5

Cut a 1/8" groove for the table top clamps. This will allwo for wood movement and allow me to remove the top easily to help to move the table. Lee Valley sells then and here is a link:

Tabletop Mounting Clamps - Lee Valley Tools

Step 6 

Dry fit. I like to do this to see if it all goes together and what order I will put the clamps on.

Step 7

Glue up. Have a bucket of water a small sponge and wiping rag to clean up glue messes.

I took two pictures for you.

I will be working on the tabel top next. Made form Alder and wrapped in Walnut trim. The table with have a bottom made with the same material (Alder) as the top. The boards will be planed down to 3/4 thickness. I will rip them all the same size and then cut a 1/16 45 degree bevel and edge join them. I am hoping this will add a few more lines to draw your attention to the tops. It may give a more rustic look as well. Picture new hardwood floor and that is what I am hoping to duplicate.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Lookin' good, Dan... Welcome back!!!!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great work so far, Dan.

More photos please.....

That Walnut looks beautiful.

How do you plan ti finish it?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Most pleased to see ya back and about Dan!!! 

don't cha just love when you stand back, and look at a frame like that and all the lines are there, everything is square and now ya get to sweat the top 

when you get a few, how about some words on that shoulder plane...its on my short list..


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Well today my buddy came over and gave me a hand rough cutting down the 5/4 Alder. Prior to him getting here I took the time to wipe down the piece in mineral spirits. I like to do this because any glue squeeze out shows up and any irregularities. Its an extra step but well worth it in my opinion. 

I first ran one edge through the DJ20 jointer and then set up the Delta 18" bandsaw and ripped them to width.

I have just enough alder to do both the tope and the bottom. I did not want to waste any material so dicided to work the widest boards into the middle with the narrower ones on the outsdie progressing from widdest to narrowest.

I ran just one face through the 13" Delta thickness planer. I decided not to run both sides because I want this to be as thick as possible.

My next step will be to give my new Veritas® #6 Fore Plane Veritas® #6 Fore Plane - Lee Valley Tools to hand joint the edges. Once I get all the edges jointed by hand I will set up the router table and put on a 45degree chamfer. I am hoping this will add greater depth and detail to the piece. The outside edge with be wrapped with a nice beefy piece of Walnut 1.5" x 2" and mitred at the corners. The overall dimension witl be 40' x 60" x 19" height. This was made to custom fit a space between the couch and a loveseat in a living room. 

I filled up another 45 gallon garbage can with shavings today and will be dropping off to a guy who has a smoker. In return I will have some Elk meat smoke and some duck.

Here are a few more pictures showing the both the top and bottom board rough cut.

P.S.

TwoSkies I really like the shoulder plane. I can not express how nice it is to cut a tennon and then have the ability to shave off enough to get the perfect fit. Again it is an honor to be able to to have such nice tools and I can not wait to collect more of the Veritas lines on hand planes. I was fortunate enough to be at Lee Valley and see first hand the detail they put into making these planes. The quality is evident but becomes more apparent after you listening to the steps they take to make these hand planes. They are also made here in Canada and for me that is very important.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Today I had a real good day in the shop. Here are the steps I took today:

Step #1
I ran all the boards through the thickness planer one more time to get a clean surface for the top.

Step #2
Labeled the board in order from left to right. Clamped the two boards together and used the hand plane to joint the edge by hand. Tweaked each board to get a perfect fit by marking with a pencil where it needed to be shaved off. I like to scratch a pencil mark on the edge face to guide me how much I take off.

Step #3
Once all the boards were jointed I had to run them through the router table and put the 45 degree chamfer cut. This was very quick and easy with the table and router bit.

Step#4
Using a Porta Cable jointer I cut #20 biscuits into the edges to help me line up the board. The bottom wil be cut into two piece but I find it easier to joint and glue all at the same time. I also accomodated for the cut and made sure the biscuit will not show up. This is a mute point because the bottom boards will sit flush to the top of the walnut and therefore you will not see the edges.

Step #5
Pre-arranged my clamps and cut the cauls with the bandsaw. I then hand planed the cauls in the middle to give them a bow so when clamped they will provide an even clamp pressure across the entire surface. 

I also taped on some clear packing tape so they will not stick to the top of the boards if any glue is present after squeeze out. I glued up two board at a time and found it worked very well. 

Another trick I do is hold my finger down as I run a bead a glue down the edge and my finger spreads out the glue evenly. I also have a bucket of water with two small scrub sponges to help with quick clean up if necessary.

Step #6
Had the clamps laid out and put the boards in. Started to apply light clamping pressure and applied the cauls with more clamps. I then tighten down the board clamps more and watch for glue squeeze out. Having the cauls in place avoids the boards form cupping and you have ot be careful not to ever tighten the clamps. This is a feel thing and hard to explain.

I let them sit overnight and tomorrow I will remove the cauls and clamps and start the same process over on the top.

Thanks for the warm welcome back everyone.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Dan it is great to see you back and in good form my friend. The project carries the touch only you can give, looks great and reads well. Well done my friend.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Beautiful work! I use AutoCAD to draw-up everything I build. It's something I've been using since 1988 that is very useful. I've heard good things about sketch-up and it appears you have done your work on that very well also! I hope normality is restored very soon in your personal life. For me, woodworking is a great break-away from many other stressful events that we all experience from time-to-time. Best Wishes! *OPG3*


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Looks like your project is coming along well! 

Sketch-up is great, and the price is definitely right (free!). I am currently working on a chisel rack for my new chisel collection. Being that it is going to hold two rows of chisels, with some complex joinery and odd spacing it has turned out to be the most complicated build for me to make to date. However, being able to 'build it' in sketch-up is almost as good as making a prototype, and has really helped me think through the process of making the piece (about 1/2 way through it now).


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

It sure does make it easier to visualize how you you build things. It also picks up some problems you may have or correct errors before you cut any wood.

I to will be needing to make a chisel rack. I have saved a spot on the wall between the two windows in my shop and hope to build a tool cabinet to hold my planes and hand tools. Mortising Chisel, Japanese dovetail chisel, Skew Chisels, Dovetail saws, marking gages. It will be a fun project.

But today I will make the top section of the table and get it glued up and work on flattening and cutting the bottom piece to fit. Will have to cut and tack in the cleats for the bottom.

Next I will have to cut the top edge trim. Will make it beefy and put a 45 degree bevel cut as well but more pronounced. The corners will be mitered. I hope to have this done by the end of the week. Will have this afternoon to work on it and all day tomorrow.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I am planning on something similar as well as I have started collecting more hand tools as of late, and have been using sketch-up for that too. It is somewhat of a cross between The Wood Whisper's recent wall hanging cabinet Guild build and Norm's tool cabinet. You are definitely right about finding issues before making a cut, and I do definitely find myself making less errors in my project as a result. When I am working in the garage I take my computer out with me, (it is up and out of the way to help protect it) so that I can read the plans directly from sketch-up. Great for looking up measurements that I didn't think to note during planning or rotating it around if I am having trouble visualizing making the part match the drawing.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I managed to get the bottom done today and cut all the cleats and notched the corners. 

One thing I did add to the bottom was two cleats to help stiffen it up and hopefully avoid any wood cupping. I had left over pieces and thought I have the wood I might as welll use it.

I had to cut the large panel down to size so I had to lay it on its edge to smooth one side to provide a reference to cut it to width. I used large left over 6x6 cedar post to rest the panel on top of and then went to work with the hand planes.


I plan on getting the top board ready by hand jointing them again using the same technique for the bottom and then glue it up. I need to prep the edge trim as well.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great work so far Dan

ps what are those shiny things on the work bench........ I can't see a cord or battery pack.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

jw2170 said:


> Great work so far Dan
> 
> ps what are those shiny things on the work bench........ I can't see a cord or battery pack.


LOL James this young beginner woodworker you could say is going "old school". I am finding myself being drawn to hand tools for certain tasks. It is much quieter than running a power tool and to be honest the feel and sound of taking fine shavings off the wood are some what intoxicating. 

Once I learned how to sharpen things it has brought my woodworking skills to the next level. I recently purchased a book called "the Complete Guide to Sharpening" by Leonard Lee. This book has a wealth of information in it and I purchased it from yes you guessed it Lee Valley.

After I get this project done I will be buying another shinny hand plane Lee Valley Tools - Important Announcement


Well I am off to the shop to start on the top boards now. I can't wait to to see the finished product.


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## nwilliams (Nov 1, 2010)

Looks great!

Just out of interest, how much would you estimate this will weigh when it's done? Looks pretty solid.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Thanks for sharing about the lee valley free shipping. I may have to order that MKII honing guide I have had my eye on!

There is something about hand tools, especially good hand tools. I have found in many cases they are more accurate, more predictable, and can produce better results. More and more, I have become a believer in hybrid woodworking where using power tools and hand tools can be a very powerful combination.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Dan... 

I think I see that you didn't alternate the grain on your glue up. If so, what is/was your thinking on that? I usually don't bother any more. And have never had a problem with warping. 

Dan/NiceG316,,,

PLUS one on the hand tool thoughts!!  I love em!!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

NiceG.. 

you're gonna enjoy the MKII!! I recently got the bevel attachment, small iron attachment and they skew attachment. The thing is just as good as it gets. I've gone back to the scary sharp method for now and can't say enough about the honing jigs Veritas mfg's. 




NiceG316 said:


> Thanks for sharing about the lee valley free shipping. I may have to order that MKII honing guide I have had my eye on!
> 
> There is something about hand tools, especially good hand tools. I have found in many cases they are more accurate, more predictable, and can produce better results. More and more, I have become a believer in hybrid woodworking where using power tools and hand tools can be a very powerful combination.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Dan...
> 
> I think I see that you didn't alternate the grain on your glue up. If so, what is/was your thinking on that? I usually don't bother any more. And have never had a problem with warping.
> 
> ...


I thought I did alternate it but after reading a lot some say do it and others say not to. To be honest I am new to using solid wood I usually use plywood so this is a new arena for me.

I will stop the glue up tonight on the boards because I just got doemn with jointing and will need a cold beer and some elk steak before I go on.

The frame is relatively light. I can easily pick it up. When I add the top and bottom is will weight about 30 lbs more. LOL It better hold the weight of me at 225 lbs.


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## 01stairguy (Apr 18, 2010)

very nice, well don, just a thought, how about a glass top, i think will look good as well! but over all well done.


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## tdublyou (Jan 8, 2010)

Dan,
Looks great and it's great to see you back on the forum and in the shop. 
Hope things are looking up for you.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Project Complete*

Well I had a fw days in the shop to get this coffee table done.

After gluing up the board for the table top I decided to try something different. First I had to use the #6 Fore Plane and smooth the top out. Once ths was done I had to make the grooves in the top. 

I bought a new tool and I can not say enough good things about it. It was pain staking to get the glue squeeze out out between the boards so this time I thought I would try to glue the boards up and then rout in the grooves using a router bit. The concern I had was making sure the lines would be dead on straight.

I went to my favorite tool store.... yes you guessed it Lee Valley and this is what I bought:

Veritas® Power Tool Guide - Lee Valley Tools

I bought a piece of 3/8 plexi glass 18" x 36". Made two base plates: one for the router and the other for my skill saw. I had to modify the skill saw and drill some holes in the base plate and this meant taking the saw apart but it was well worth it.

I used both and it worked perfect. I now can cut sheets of plywood with ease either cross cut or full length.

Used a chamfer bit 45 degree on the edge trim and then put two coars on Tung Oil on and..... POP! 

I built this for a friend and she is very pleased with it and so am I . What a great project and I learned lots of new tricks and thanks to Google Sketchup and the CD tutorial from Robert Lang.

Here are a few shots of the finished coffee table.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great result, Dan


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

There is very little, if anything that can be said, expressed or otherwise demonstrated
that the first picture in the last set doesn't 

that my friend, 
is what its all about!!!

its all good!


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Pop indeed!! Looks great, Dan.. The chamfers give it a great accent. 

Jim


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## hands made for wood (Oct 21, 2008)

Dan the table looks incredible!! I love the contrast of woods! Beautiful work


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks guys it was fun to build and to see my friend come home and before she even walked up the stairs she knew the table was in the house because she could smell the tung oil. 

Her mouth dropped down and all she said was "wow, this is gorgeous!"

I plan on making some matching coasters to put your drink on which will ba made with left over alder and walnut. Will be scaled down but will match the table top.

Thanks for the kinds words guys it sure feels good to be making stuff in the shop again.

Here is a shot of the proud owner of the coffee table and my two quality control inspectors.


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Dan, great to see you back. The table is beautiful, and all the editorial is good stuff, well writen and rare.
Thanks!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I have received many request for the plans so here is a crude Sketchup set of plans I drew up. 

Thanks everyone for having a look and making so many kind comments.


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## mstrfnsh (Aug 19, 2013)

Really nice job,looks heavy too. Bet it took 2 men and a boy to move it in. (Ha Ha)


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

mstrfnsh said:


> Really nice job,looks heavy too. Bet it took 2 men and a boy to move it in. (Ha Ha)


Believe it or not Al it is not very heavy at all. The Walnut frame was fairly light but when I added the top and the second shelf it did add mass which in turn made it a little heavier. 

The bottom can be removed in two parts and the top is attached using "z" clips so it makes for an easy move. Having said all of that you can park your derriere on it and not be worried about breaking the table. 

Thanks for the compliments. I really enjoyed making and designing this piece. I t was my first paying job and first time using Google SketchUp.


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## mstrfnsh (Aug 19, 2013)

I can tell it was built very well, that is a great idea to be able to remove the top and shelves. Again great job I enjoyed taking a look at the process. Al


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