# Morticing plate picture doesn't look right.



## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

I posted this in another thread but I don't expect it will be seen because of the title.

When I look at the image;










I don't understand how that plate could have been used to make the mortice in the picture. To me, it looks like the mortice is cut closer to the end of the material than the guide pin could support the centering of the bit. Even with visual deflection caused by the clear plate, the mortice looks to be cut well beyond the capability of the pin in the plate. 

In order for this plate to work properly, both pins must contact the sides of the material throughout the cut.

Am I missing something?

The original image is here; Image Gallery

Mike


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

mpbc48 said:


> I posted this in another thread but I don't expect it will be seen because of the title.
> 
> When I look at the image;
> 
> ...


I don't think you missed a thing Mike - nice catch
They would have needed a piece of scrap clamped in that vice also to get that close to the edge. 
I made one like this and I need to clamp extra scraps between the clamping plates to get near the end like that:


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

It's likely a setup picture that was taken after the board was cut to length. You are right. You can't cut a mortise that close to the end of a board with that fixture, unless you clamp a board to the end of the work to extend it far enough for the guide pin to ride on. Both guide pins have to remain in contact with the sides of the work, or an extension piece for the cut to be made properly.

Charley


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I have one and a home shop one and they work, look at the snapshot one more time and flip the base plate around in your head..

===


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> I have one and a home shop one and they work, look at the snapshot one more time and flip the base plate around in your head..
> 
> ===


I dunno Bob, I gotta be careful flippin things around in my head, but it still looks to me like the stock either gotta get longer or wider. (clamp a piece on each side).:no:


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

jschaben said:


> I don't think you missed a thing Mike - nice catch
> They would have needed a piece of scrap clamped in that vice also to get that close to the edge.
> I made one like this and I need to clamp extra scraps between the clamping plates to get near the end like that:


Thanks John,

The scrap piece clamped on makes sense.

Mike


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

The picture plays with your head a little bit. they will put the slot with in a 1/2" from the end of the board, that's the norm..\But if you want it right to the edge you will need to use some other type of jig like JessEm Zip Slot Mill or the Craftsman..


http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2641-mortise-tenon-jig-plunge-router.html
======


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI John

No need to " (clamp a piece on each side/end) " just stick in some 1/8"or 1/4" MDF on each side of the board and it will pull the bit in..  so to speak. 

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jschaben said:


> I dunno Bob, I gotta be careful flippin things around in my head, but it still looks to me like the stock either gotta get longer or wider. (clamp a piece on each side).:no:


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> HI John
> 
> No need to " (clamp a piece on each side/end) " just stick in some 1/8"or 1/4" MDF on each side of the board and it will pull the bit in..  so to speak.
> 
> ======


Hi Bob - that's what I was thinkin. I tried jerry rigging a two pin deal awhile back and I guess my co-ordination ain't what it used to be. :fie: That's why I made the Wood magazine version. That works pretty well with a 1" bushing and half inch bit. I did have to redo it a couple of times to get my pivots in the right spot to center it. 
That General jig looks like it may be interesting.


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

It would be very difficult for me to keep the plate flat on a 3/4" wide surface. Maybe with much longer pins it would work for me.

Mike


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I also use 3/8 x 2 1/2" long Allen cap screws with bearings on them on the narrow stock like 1/2" wide..or smaller.. keeps the base plate flat on the edge of stock.

You can see the setup in my uploads..
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mpbc48 said:


> It would be very difficult for me to keep the plate flat on a 3/4" wide surface. Maybe with much longer pins it would work for me.
> 
> Mike


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

mpbc48 said:


> It would be very difficult for me to keep the plate flat on a 3/4" wide surface. Maybe with much longer pins it would work for me.
> 
> Mike


Hi Mike, I think that was the issue I had with the two pin system. Take a look at the pdf I posted earlier. It's a pretty easy jig to build. It gives plenty of router support but can still be a little rocky. I usually slip a couple of 1/4" scraps of MDF, ahead and behind the hole to help steady it but it does a good job. Makes an easy 2-1/2" x1/2" motise or two dowel holes 2" on center. Will also do a lot more tricks by playing with the bit/bushing combinations. You could theoretically get a 15/16" x 2-15/16" mortise by using a 5/16" bushing with a 1/4" bit.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Look in my uploads that I posted a good while back, my method of doing this, with a clamp-on extension for cutting near the end, bottom of page four will guide you.


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

Thanks John, Bob and Derek,

I can see where all of them would address my "rocky" concerns, but for both simplicity and cost, Derek, you have a real winner. 

Mike


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