# Getting the most from a "cheap" table saw



## jaydubya (Aug 19, 2010)

I have a sears table saw that i recieved as a christmas gift last year.
Craftsman | America's Most Trusted Tool Brand | Top-Selling Lawn & Garden Brand | Garage & Storage
I cant afford a better saw so i want to do what i can to expand the capabilities of this one. the saw I have has a very small table (about 30 wide by 20), an undersized miter slot so you cant buy an off-the-shelf miter gauge, and the rip fence is a joke. the blade is also pretty far forward in the table so the miter gauge hangs off the front of the table (very unstable and inaccurate) when cutting anything more than 6 inches wide. 

The plan is to ditch the folding stand (which isnt horrible) for a wooden cabinet on wheels. I want to extend the table at least 3 feet to the right, and also about a foot forward instead of rearward like most due to the blade being forward on the table. id like to build a rip fence like the biesmeyer (spelling??). Im looking for a solution to the miter gauge issue I have. perhaps extending the table forward and adding T track miter slot to the extension will help to stabilize things? Ill also be building a freestanding outfeed table for the rear. Any other suggestions/ideas (besides buying a new saw, which I would love to do)


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## jaydubya (Aug 19, 2010)

By the way, I found a pretty good Biesemeier clone that i will probably try to duplicate
Biesemeyer clone - Techtalk at Parts-Express.com


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## novice wood guy (Jun 30, 2010)

One of the things I did to my saw was to add a folding outfeed table with folding legs. This aloows me to cut sheet good or rip long stock with out the material trying to drop off the back. I tried the roller stand that kept moving around, or pullling the stock away from the fence. the attached folding table also serves as a work bench, and folds so the saw does not tke up any more room when stored.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

You might consider building a sled to replace the miter. You could incorporate a miter gage into the sled and make custom runners to fit the existing grooves in the TS.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

+1 on the sled suggestion. They are fairly simple to build and are much safer than the miter gauge.


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## jaydubya (Aug 19, 2010)

Anyone have any links to a good sled? I see alot of 90 degree cutoff sleds but not many that allow for miter cuts


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Jason,

You seem to have a similar problem to me.

If you check out the post below, you may get some ideas

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/17843-my-new-sled.html#post145575

A sled for smaller pieces and an outfeed table should help.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Also check out this thread for a stand for the TS


http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/11051-wip-table-saw-cabinet.html#post91243


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Hello Jason! Under the circumstances, It is one of the best things You can do. A good table size is as important as the saw itself! . It solves many problems as far as what jigs can be used, and what size of the wood that can be cut. I have to say also, that the sled will make for more accurate cuts, and set-up time. I wish You well with Your saw, and keep us informed. Thank You


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Thank you.
This thread has given me hope for my chocolate teapot tablesaw.
A sled looks like it's the way to go for me.
My problem is that the "tracks" in the table are inaccurately pressed in.
I'll probably guide the sled with runners down the outside edge of the saw.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Titus A Duxass said:


> Thank you.
> This thread has given me hope for my chocolate teapot tablesaw.
> A sled looks like it's the way to go for me.
> My problem is that the "tracks" in the table are inaccurately pressed in.
> I'll probably guide the sled with runners down the outside edge of the saw.


Hi Titus,

That was my problem... the top was only pressed aluminium with odd sized "t track"
tracks.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Prior to joining the forum I bought this cross cut sled from Rockler Table Saw Crosscut Sled - Rockler Woodworking Tools. I really like it, but I didn't pay 139.99 for mine, it was on sale. The drop off sled I built myself, no big deal on that. I like it because it is graduated 0-45d, can be recalibrated to maintain its accuracy.


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## Mark Sternberg (Jan 16, 2010)

I have to tell you I would be really discouraged to get a new saw and have to do all those things just to make it work the way you need it too. I realize it is a gift and that is the biggest problem I see with this saw.
If you bought yourself you could take it back and for the money that was spent on it you can get some awesome older table saws on craigslist. For instance I bought an older craftsman 10" saw that had the cast iron extensions, it runs on 220 or 110 and this is the kicker, it had a reliant aftermarket fence that is set to rip up to 48" wide. I got all this for $125. It's not a modern saw but everything is accurate and heavy duty.


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## jaydubya (Aug 19, 2010)

Thres some pretty nice saws on craigslist for 2-300, opinions on this? Ridgid 10" table saw


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Are the edges parallel with each other, and is the blade parallel to the sides. You should measure before You get to far along. If not, You might find the one sled runner that is closest. Most should be pretty good. It is possible that the table is bolted to the body and that a bit of room will allow it to run true . I hope that You get a good Set-up. That always inspires Me to go on to the next one.


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Jason,
> 
> You seem to have a similar problem to me.
> 
> ...


WOW! James you really do work out of a shed, kudos on the wood work with such a limited space. That's great! You have put me to shame with all my belly-aching about lack of room.


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

jaydubya said:


> Thres some pretty nice saws on craigslist for 2-300, opinions on this? Ridgid 10" table saw


Jay I think that's a great price, I have 2 Ridgid saws, both a little newer than that one but I have been happy with all things Ridgid, I have quite a few of their power tools. Also, I think you will be pleased with the fence, I believe it will go 36" to the right of the blade, and even farther if you choose to move the whole set up more to the right. I say email him and go visit this guy.


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## jaydubya (Aug 19, 2010)

Thanks jack. Hes about 3 hours away, which adds about 80 dollars worth of fuel to the equation. I think I might look for something closer


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Jason, here is another one on ebay:Rigid R4511 I have this one and am very happy with it. 

And, just a note on this one, they were clearanced out for $299 back in Jan/Feb of this year. This is a refurbished one. I'm told there are still a few available at some HD stores.


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## jaydubya (Aug 19, 2010)

BrianS said:


> Jason, here is another one on ebay:Rigid R4511 I have this one and am very happy with it.
> 
> And, just a note on this one, they were clearanced out for $299 back in Jan/Feb of this year. This is a refurbished one. I'm told there are still a few available at some HD stores.


I saw that one, but I cant imagine what shipping would cost


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## sourdough (Jan 31, 2010)

Consider replacing your belt with one of the fabric belts made from interlocking V shaped pieces (can't recall the name) but it will make the saw run a whole lot smoother. I am assuming the saw uses a belt driven pulley etc. etc. really know nothing about the saw but I DO know the belts make a BIG difference.


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## jaydubya (Aug 19, 2010)

sourdough said:


> Consider replacing your belt with one of the fabric belts made from interlocking V shaped pieces (can't recall the name) but it will make the saw run a whole lot smoother. I am assuming the saw uses a belt driven pulley etc. etc. really know nothing about the saw but I DO know the belts make a BIG difference.


My saw is direct drive. no belts


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