# Guide bushing baseplate for a laminate trimmer



## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

I have one of those combo kits based on the laminate trimmer with a variety of other attachments.

The current month (October, 2009) of Fine Woodworking shows a laminate trimmer with a guide bushing base. If I have what I figure is a standard four screw base, can one of these either be gotten or shop made?

I started to do this with some plexiglass remnants but I stopped because the 
trimmer's laminate attachment doesn't look like it has much bit adjustment.


----------



## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

*layered baseplate*

I got my set of brass bushings today from the Harbor Freight.

Looks like I have to make two bases: one for the Craftsman router (which I thought was dimensioned correctly.) The only hit I had for Craftsman on this was somebody who wanted to make the hole bigger for larger bushings. My bad in any case.

I reviewed the how to and it looks like a layered arrangement to make the 
two hole saw cuts. The picture shows three layers. Two layers makes sense for the two hole saw dimensions but why the sandwich of three?

I have some scrap plexiglass I want to use for this and have to round up a few more smaller hole saws.

It makes a bit more sense now and I have good knowledge of how to adjust the 
zip tool/laminate trimmer.

After checking at Sears, all they had was a $30 set. This HF set has two locking rings and is half the price so one ring can stay on the trimmer base and one for the router.

Thanks for any responses.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

*Bosch base info*

Lonin,

Here's the accessory part number for the guide bushing base for a Bosch Colt trimmer. The 4-bolt pattern is about 2-3/4"x3". Amazon sells them for under $10. I don't know if this will work for you. I've included pictures of each.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

loninappleton said:


> I got my set of brass bushings today from the Harbor Freight.
> 
> Looks like I have to make two bases: one for the Craftsman router (which I thought was dimensioned correctly.) The only hit I had for Craftsman on this was somebody who wanted to make the hole bigger for larger bushings. My bad in any case.
> 
> ...


There are 3 "layers" because the bottom recess holds the guide flange, the middle allows the bushing body to fit through but not the flange and the third is for the locking ring to rest down in.

Be aware that the bushing (and thereby the hole) must be very carefully centered on the router bit, so you have the same repeatable offset each time you use it.

A number of companies offer "centering guides" for this purpose although some people choose to use a straight drill bit, sized to be slightly smaller than the inside of the bushing (close enough to adjust the tolerance by eye). It all depends upon just how accurate you want to be!


----------



## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

I think it was the article in Fine Woodworking that mentioned centering can be done with a dovetail bit as well. The taper must give some aid in centering correctly.

Thanks for the help on this.

The baseplate on the ziptool is in two parts and the removable base that unscrews looks like the one for the Colt. I have already used that to copy the 
screw pattern onto some plexiglass pieces. But I don't think there's need to stay with the small size for this. It may work to make a semicircular base plate with a square side that is a little larger for stability.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi loninappleton

Pie are round but square is best for the base plate for your router  7" or 8" square ....

You can make one very easy and quick,cut some stock in a square, draw a line from corner,,drill a 1/16" hole in the dead center...if you want it round now is the time to make it round using the 1/16" center hole..

Now chuck up your forstner bit ( you need two of them) 1 3/16" and a 1 3/8" ) drill out the bigger hole (but only 1/8" deep) now chuck up you 1 3/16" bit and dril the hole out 

Now your guides with just pop in the new plate,,make one more at the same time but this time dril out a 2 1/2" hole for the bigger bits...

To center the new plate for your guides, pop in one of the guides, that has a 1/4" hole in the center, now chuck up a 1/4" drill bit backwards in the router or a router bit, now center up the plate and put the screws in place..

===========



loninappleton said:


> I have one of those combo kits based on the laminate trimmer with a variety of other attachments.
> 
> The current month (October, 2009) of Fine Woodworking shows a laminate trimmer with a guide bushing base. If I have what I figure is a standard four screw base, can one of these either be gotten or shop made?
> 
> ...


----------



## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

I can't go into all the tools I don't have. Or a shop either.

;-)

But I did learn a good lesson from Router Magic by Bill Hylton. He says that you should always replace the round head base screws with flat heads and countersink the holes. The taper of the screws centers and tightens the base (without overdoing it, of course.)

The base of the zip tool has threaded holes in lucite that "bottom out" so I cannot go to longer screws but will match up some teensy flat head ones and countersinks for the new base.

I'll have to make a hold down to do the pattern as well. I do not want to try to freehand a pattern bit cut.

The real fly in the ointment is not having a band saw to rough cut to shape. That means trying to get through quite a bit of waste. Or going at it with a hack saw.

Morris, the brand that has the hole cutters in all the stores (except True Value,) has the 1 3/16 hole cutter.


----------



## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

loninappleton said:


> But I did learn a good lesson from Router Magic by Bill Hylton. He says that you should always replace the round head base screws with flat heads and countersink the holes. The taper of the screws centers and tightens the base (without overdoing it, of course.)


I used to countersink mine, but for some reason they don't always stay in alignment. So I've gone back to a counter-bored hole, just to have some adjust ability.


----------



## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

The 1 3/16 hole cutter is not a common size found in the inexpensive kits. But I got the 1 3/16 hole cutter yesterday at the farm and fleet for $7.00 total w. tax. I already have the pilot drill from other purchases of the same type of hole cutter.

The is a router base with the zip tool device and the pattern of the semi circle with flat edge looks like the right proportional size to make a pattern.

I mentioned "pattern bit" above. I do not actually have a pattern bit yet with the guide at the shank. This may be necessary to get if I want to use the removable router base for the zip tool as a guide.

What is the difference for control of the piece if the pattern is at the base or at the top?

I have seen articles with the table mounter router using the flush trim bit.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

The flush trim bit can be used in many ways,you don't need a fence or a guide the norm it has one built in so to speak,the bearing is the fence 



==============



loninappleton said:


> The 1 3/16 hole cutter is not a common size found in the inexpensive kits. But I got the 1 3/16 hole cutter yesterday at the farm and fleet for $7.00 total w. tax. I already have the pilot drill from other purchases of the same type of hole cutter.
> 
> The is a router base with the zip tool device and the pattern of the semi circle with flat edge looks like the right proportional size to make a pattern.
> 
> ...


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

loninappleton said:


> What is the difference for control of the piece if the pattern is at the base or at the top?


I'm going to make some generalized comments here. 

Most commonly, the bearing is on the top (router) side of the bit when the router is being hand-held since the user can put the template on the top of the piece they are routing and see the template clearly as they work. 

It is possible to use the bit with the bearing on the tip and the template on the bottom. One advantage of working this way is that you don't (usually) need to have a piece of scrap wood under the piece you're working in to prevent routing your worktable.

The bit on the tip is commonly used when doing template work with the router mounted in a router table (bit up). Again, this permits the woodworker to clearly see where the bit is in comparison to the template.

This arrangement is also frequently used for trimming laminate on the top of a counter to be flush with the edge.

My comments have been made as generalized comments because with a router there's often many ways to accomplish something and (just as in flavors of kool-aid) everyone will choose a different flavor.

As for myself, I like to be able to see the template, wood and bit when I template-cut and prefer to have the router in the table with a tip-bearing, though I also have the other type.

For each instance, whatever feels natural and safest to you is probably right on this issue. In any rate, if it doesn't feel safe, don't do it. It probably isn't.


----------



## mcclain3 (Jul 13, 2009)

I just purchased the Ridgid laminate trimmer and the Harbor Fright guide set. The base plate in the trimmer and the guides match perfectly. Perhaps the Ridgid base plate works on your trimmer?


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

mcclain3 said:


> I just purchased the Ridgid laminate trimmer and the Harbor Fright guide set. The base plate in the trimmer and the guides match perfectly. Perhaps the Ridgid base plate works on your trimmer?


Bob,

It would be very helpful if you were to measure the bolt pattern and post it, as I did with my Bosch Colt. Those kinds of dimensions are rarely in manuals.

This kind of thing is part of what makes this forum so valuable for all of us!!


----------



## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

Famous woodworker joke:

"I've been doing this for 30 years and I still have all eight fingers."


I see one problem with using the small router adapter to the zip tool as a guide.
It has no screw fittings to anchor it. That means use double stick carpet tape and plus a shop made hold down jig. The bit turns at high speed but I'm concerned about snags or losing control of the piece since it is plexiglass plastic. This is normally not an issue with things like MDF or HDF. But I won't use MDF-- too powdery. See-through for the base seems to be an advantage for use plus the rigidity of the plastic. 

Just making some sample hole cuts showed again that the high speed of a cutter (hole saw in this case) will melt the plastic. But I have wanted to do some pattern shaping for some time.

Thanks for the reply.


----------



## mcclain3 (Jul 13, 2009)

There are four screw holes in the Ridgid trimmer base plate, evenly spaced at 2 1/8", and 1 1/2" from the center shaft. The Ridgid part number is 512688001.


----------



## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

I have made a template of the screw holes for this zip tool. Transfer the holes to the blank(s) to be used. Attach to the zip tool then use a centering bit (V-groove by name) to locate where to bore the pilot drill. All that has to be done before doing any shaping.

The ones for the Ridgid can't be beat on price though.


----------



## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

*an update on this project*

I've approached the making of the guide bushing base with a lot of caution. My biggest fear was kickback,

So I set up a test in my table with a piece that won't be saved. I also had my homebrew fence in place and had good afternoon light.

Good news.

The plexiglass blank attached with carpet tape to the factory router base did not kick when doing small increments. I can see now where a starting pin for some jobs would be a real advantage.

My question is: when I advance to doing a double layer of the plastic for guide mount and through hole can I expect the same behavior from the bit? In other words would a half inch depth be harder to shape the waste away?


Also what is the preferred solvent to get glue and residue off of the shaper bit (flush trim bit) guide wheel?


This was actually fun to do and I overcame some machine fear. The router forum has been a big help with the hobby.


----------



## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

*absolute beginners*

This should be in the Beginner's Guide. Make sure your router doesn't fall apart during use.

While mounted in the table, I was cleaning up and almost sucked up the screw, the calibrating ring and the knob for adjustment of the bit. Apparently vibration or something loosened those parts enough to fall off.

The devil of it is I'll not remember to check to make sure these components are snug next time mounted in the table. Or maybe I will remember and it will fall off anyways.

Jeez.


----------



## gms002a (Oct 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi loninappleton
> 
> Pie are round but square is best for the base plate for your router  7" or 8" square ....
> 
> ...


Bob,

I've just made one following you instructions. Took about 2 hrs. I didn't use the centering bit because the guide nut diameter was exactly as that of the hole in the trimmer base (Makita), so i did screw it to the original base and then drilled the mounting holes using the old base screw holes as guides. Perfect result. I used the new base right away with the door hinge template. The hinge fits like a bum in the bucket. Thanks. 

Btw - to prevent the plexi melting while drilling the large holes must use the lowest speed.

George


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Your Welcome George


=========



gms002a said:


> Bob,
> 
> I've just made one following you instructions. Took about 2 hrs. I didn't use the centering bit because the guide nut diameter was exactly as that of the hole in the trimmer base (Makita), so i did screw it to the original base and then drilled the mounting holes using the old base screw holes as guides. Perfect result. I used the new base right away with the door hinge template. The hinge fits like a bum in the bucket. Thanks.
> 
> ...


----------



## loninappleton (Jun 12, 2008)

Thanks for keeping the answers coming.



Over the last couple of days I had some slowdowns. I made some mistakes transferring a pattern and something else.

The system of using the double sided tape created a problem for me. When trying to pilot holes the two taped pieces would skew and then lose their flush edges. To maintain register I used the screws to join the template and the blank *before* doing the shaping.

I have scant tools and no shop so have to make the countersinks with a hand drill. On a small template (for the zip tool) it's been less than a perfect one-off job.

I have books and magazines on the bushing use and calculations for making the router baseplate recess but still seem way too confused. It looks like I have to get a rabbeting bit as well.


----------

