# Tell Me About My Router Table



## ArtShapiro (Dec 14, 2007)

Hello. Primarily a lurker here, and a decidedly amateur would-be woodworker.

A couple years ago, I picked up a fairly nice (I think) router table off of CraigsList. It appears to be a Rockler top and heavy Rockler plate on a homebrew cabinet, complete with Delta mobile base:










The plate happened to be drilled for a four-hole router, maybe a P-C, and I have a three-hole Bosch B1350, which seems to be Bosch's rarely-encountered model, maybe a black sheep? Anyway, I had a machine shop with CNC equipment machine the holes and mounted the Bosch without incident:


















One thing I don't like is that I can't raise the Bosch enough to get a pair of wrenches on the collet from the upside. I have to either remove the plate and router or work from underneath the cabinet. My first question: if this started to become a real nuisance, what would be a good router to purchase for this table? I'd love to work from up top, and even ideally get hold of one of those fancy lifting mechanisms if it weren't a fortune. I'd think that would be the easiest way to get convenient and precise adjustments.

The other thing I can't figure out is the best way of dealing with the fence. Because the fence mounts with two slots, pretty visible in 










or, better, but a weird angle:









it doesn't automatically stay parallel to the table edge. Is there any advantage to that??? I can't imagine why one would want the fence at a weird angle. Anyway, the best I've been able to do is to take two cheap squares from Harbor Freight, which have a lip on one edge, and use them to ensure that the fence is "square" on both sides of the table, as can be seen in those last two photos. It seems to work well, but I have to ask if there's an obvious better way of positioning the fence squarely. 

Hope these aren't laughably stupid questions, and I'll be grateful for any guidance.

Art


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Nice looking table Art. As for the fence, doesn't matter if it's parallel to the edge or not, the bit is round and will cut in any direction. If it's off set a bit, it won't matter. The only time it WILL matter is if you are using a guide that runs in the miter slot.... then you need the fence parallel to the miter slot.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Your fence will be square to the bit no matter at what angle it's set at UNLESS you're using a miter gauge. Then this becomes a different issue. It will have to be perfectly square to the miter slot. This is why I don't like having such a thing on a router table. They aren't really needed. You could put down some sticky measuring tape along the slots for fence adjustment.

Look at the newer Triton routers. Both models don't need to be removed from the table to change bits. You may have to drill an additional hole in the plate for above table bit adjustment.


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## iamwelty2 (Dec 27, 2008)

+1 on all of the above... The Triton Router is very cool and you won't need a lift....


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

look at this table It work's with out all that stuff on top I been using this table for a couple yrs now Does all the i want I use mine every day for some project watch the demestration Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I do believe he's covered on the table.


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## jmg1017 (Apr 9, 2009)

As for the lift there are several reasonably priced lifts sold by Rockler that will fit a 3-1/2" router motor like the one you have. Here's one: Rockler Aluminum Router Lift FX - Rockler Woodworking Tools
Light years ahead of lifting your router and plate out each time you change a bit, and you can't beat the ease of fine tuning bit height.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Art - Glad you finally got around to posting
That's a pretty nice table, I really like the nice long fence.
The guys are right, the angle of the fence to the table is unimportant as the bit is rotating around a vertical axis as opposed to a table saw which rotates around a horizontal axis. 
What is of interest is the position of the fence relative to the centerline of the bit. 
What I did was inlay some 6" ss rulers next to the fence slots. I aligned the "0" of the rules with the centerline of the bit. Now to align the fence with the bit, I just align the face of the fence with the 0 on the rules and I know the fence is aligned with the router axis and work from there for the required offsets. In order to work this needs to be done with a fair degree of precision but really speeds things up down the road.

As far as changing the bit, will offset wrenches allow you access?

Good Luck..... I really like the table.


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## ArtShapiro (Dec 14, 2007)

Thanks for the input, folks!

Yep, upon stepping back and devoting a few seconds of pondering, I see the fence angle is totally irrelevant. That will certainly speed things up unless I take John's idea of mounting a ruler, which will once again dictate the fence being square. 

I'll keep the suggested lift and/or the Triton line in the back of my mind - you never know when one might stumble on a good deal or have some cash burning a hole in the pocket.

Art

Art


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

ArtShapiro said:


> Thanks for the input, folks!
> 
> Yep, upon stepping back and devoting a few seconds of pondering, I see the fence angle is totally irrelevant. That will certainly speed things up unless I take John's idea of mounting a ruler, which will once again dictate the fence being square.
> 
> ...


Not necessarily Art. The ruler is referenced to the router, not the fence, nor any other part of the table. For minor adjustments, I will typically just move one end. By moving one end of the fence you effectively change the depth of cut by 1/2 the distance moved. That's where the ruler really comes in handy. It is also why the rules must be placed precisely equidistant from the front/back centerline of the bit. For instance; If I am cutting a rabbet and need to move it 1/32", I can simply move one end of the fence 1/16" and with the rulers in place I don't need to measuring from somewhere. 
Granted, it's not a method for everyone but I find it useful.
Hopes this helps


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Cocheseuga said:


> I do believe he's covered on the table.


I believe what Del is trying to say, watch the RWS demo of their table. The plate pops out, not fastened like many others are. Technically, this can be done with any table but, the plate will need to be square not rectangular.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I took it as, 'Hey, I know you just bought this table, but I think you should get the Oak Park table.'

Been seeing that lately, random plugging for the table when it doesn't help the poster. Perhaps del could clear that up for us.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> I believe what Del is trying to say, watch the RWS demo of their table. The plate pops out, not fastened like many others are. Technically, this can be done with any table but, the plate will need to be square not rectangular.


Hi Ken, I don't understand the "square" plate. You can pop the plate out no matter what shape it is,,, can't you?


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## harrywc (Mar 20, 2010)

Warning/please note... i have a similar bosch router ( don't recall mod#) i attempted to use in a homemade table years ago. No matter what i did, the body would slowly slide out of the base when in the inverted position ( tried reefing the wingnut with pliers, rough-up body with abrasive, whatever). Eventually bought a different brand. Hope it works out for you, but do use caution initially.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

ArtShapiro said:


> Thanks for the input, folks!
> 
> Yep, upon stepping back and devoting a few seconds of pondering, I see the fence angle is totally irrelevant. That will certainly speed things up unless I take John's idea of mounting a ruler, which will once again dictate the fence being square.
> 
> ...



Hi Art,

My previous router table ( Triton) had the rulers down next to the slots for the table and I used to spend hours trying to make sure they were dead equal .

I later found out that it does not matter....LOL

If you watch some of the Router Workshop shows, it will become very clear.

Also, when you are micro-adjusting the fence, you only need to adjust one end of the fence.

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi.

I forgot to add the picture of the Triton router in the Oak Park table,

The collet lifts above the table so you don't need a router lift to change bits

James


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## Tommyt654 (Apr 5, 2009)

I think what you need is at the bottom of this page.,,. Heavyweight and Precision Router Table


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

jschaben said:


> Hi Ken, I don't understand the "square" plate. You can pop the plate out no matter what shape it is,,, can't you?


For some, yes. How can you just pop out a plate if it's screwed down? I've seen this in some tables and don't like. For example, the older craftsmen router tables are of this design. Also, can you rotate the plate around if it's rectangular? Pending of the project, length of material, I can rotate the plate in my OP table to use the longer side of the top as added material support. Being able to pop the plate out and use it hand held is also an added plus. Equal support for the router, not so with the rectangular ones.


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## jmg1017 (Apr 9, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> For some, yes. How can you just pop out a plate if it's screwed down? I've seen this in some tables and don't like. For example, the older craftsmen router tables are of this design. Also, can you rotate the plate around if it's rectangular? Pending of the project, length of material, I can rotate the plate in my OP table to use the longer side of the top as added material support. Being able to pop the plate out and use it hand held is also an added plus. Equal support for the router, not so with the rectangular ones.


Can't speak for Craftsman but none of the name brand tables I've seen have a plate that's screwed down. Nor do any manufacturers router plates that I've seen. As for rotating your plate for more work support, that sounds like trying to compensate for a table that's too small. Not an issue with a full size table.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

jmg1017 said:


> Can't speak for Craftsman but none of the name brand tables I've seen have a plate that's screwed down. Nor do any manufacturers router plates that I've seen. As for rotating your plate for more work support, that sounds like trying to compensate for a table that's too small. Not an issue with a full size table.



One, this shows how long it's been since I've looked at other tables an plates. 

Two, are you saying you have an 4ft to 8ft long table for routing longer pieces then? We each don't have the same needs nor do we all use the same methods. Each their own.


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## jmg1017 (Apr 9, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> Two, are you saying you have an 4ft to 8ft long table for routing longer pieces then?


 No, what I'm saying is that the Oak Park table top is too small. The fact that you mentioned taking the router out and turning it 90deg to gain support proves that. 
Not an issue with a full size table.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

What's too large or too small for one may be just right for another. Please be respectful of others. If, instead of saying "it's too small" as if it's a fact (which it isn't for many), it was said "it's too small for my uses", that would be accepted as fact.

Please re-read the member respect rules, as it is a requirement for continued membership in this forum. 

http://www.routerforums.com/routerf...rums-com-member-respect-policy-must-read.html


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## mango wood (May 30, 2010)

thanks for the info


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## xvimbi (Sep 29, 2009)

jmg1017 said:


> Can't speak for Craftsman but none of the name brand tables I've seen have a plate that's screwed down. Nor do any manufacturers router plates that I've seen. As for rotating your plate for more work support, that sounds like trying to compensate for a table that's too small. Not an issue with a full size table.


The current incarnation of the Rockler table has a plate that can be screwed down. In fact, when used with the Rockler table, the plate pretty much has to be screwed down, or otherwise stabilized, because the hole is about 1 mm too large in both directions. The Benchdog tables have the same provisions, perhaps not surprising, because they are in principle identical to the Rocklers. There are plates from other manufacturers that have holes for fastening them to tables. One doesn't have to use them, of course. 

Some other plates (e.g., from MLCS) have magnets. That's less cumbersome when it comes to removing the plate but probably also less effective in terms of stabilization.

Edit: Incra plates also have a locking mechanism, but it is considerably faster than the Rockler mechanism

MM


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

i have the oak park table and it work's perfect for me With the dust colector Easy to pop out the router and plate and change bit's and back in Adjust bit height no problum Don't need a router lift ect. and just use the fence any where Eather side Just be on the right side of the bit tho Just my take on things


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