# Triton 2 1/4 Router



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Was wondering if anyone has bought one of these routers? I am planning on building a extension table for my tablesaw to accomodate my router.

I have considered a lift kit system but they are very expenseive. When i saw the Triton I noticed it can be adjusted from uptop on the table. I really like the idea and the fact you can change out bits very quickly without the need of a wrench.

If anyone can share some of their experience with me or offer up any suggestion I would appreciate it very much.

Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

I have the Triton and you still need a wrench to remove or install a router bits but I do recommend using the off set/bent wrench, it's makes the job very easy from the top of the table..

You may say why use the offset wrench when the one that came with the router will do the job, many times you don't want to move the router up or down you want the switch the bits out like for the R & S bit sets ( most are matched sets, that's to say the cutters are in the same place from the bottom of the base of the shank) many router bits sets are matched , the offset wrench will let you get under the bit and to the nut without moving the router up or down..

Doing it this way your project parts will always line right up on the button at glue up time.. 


Off-Set Router Bit Wrench
http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerAcc.htm

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TRN_Diesel said:


> Was wondering if anyone has bought one of these routers? I am planning on building a extension table for my tablesaw to accomodate my router.
> 
> I have considered a lift kit system but they are very expenseive. When i saw the Triton I noticed it can be adjusted from uptop on the table. I really like the idea and the fact you can change out bits very quickly without the need of a wrench.
> 
> ...


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

I have a Triton. You do need a wrench to remove and install the bits from above the table. The collet locks automatically when you raise the collet all the way to the top of the table. I use the wrench that came with the Triton. All you need is one wrench to do the job. Great Router by the way! 
I just built a table for my Triton. Check out my Gallery to see it.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, how do you lock the spindle if you don't raise the router all the way up where it needs to be to auto-lock?


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

I have no major problems with mine. It is now more or less permanently mounted in the table.

1) I removed all the Plexiglas - with it in place I cannot change table inserts or bushings.

2) The lifter is overrated - the hole is often covered by a fence, jig etc. and you still have to reach below the table to lift the bit up to change.

3) Locking the body shifts the bit position - this is minor and probably insignificant for woodwork.

4) The plunge spring is best removed for table use.

5) The "safety" switch drives me potty.

I think as a router it is best used either as a full time table or full time plunge. Changing over with having to re-install the spring, guards etc. is a hassle and a make with two bases would probably be a better choice if you can only have one motor for both purposes.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

The one I have it has a push in lock button, it's very easy to push into the pin hole in the harbor shaft and it's locked in place.. 
I always change the bits from the top side, no need to pop it out at all.. or lift it the norm.
I did by pass the PITA switch with just a small wedge (plastic piece) but it can be removed if I use it for a standard hand plunge router without removing the 11" x 11" base plate  

*note* for crquack
"The lifter is overrated - the hole is often covered by a fence"
If you remount the router you can have the crank to the front and it will not be covered by the fence..
see snapshots above 

==

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harrysin said:


> Bj, how do you lock the spindle if you don't raise the router all the way up where it needs to be to auto-lock?


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

Bj , 
I was thinking of repositioning my router on the insert so the crank is in the front where it won't be covered by the fence. I'm going to install an easy to reach paddle Kill switch w/outlet for the vac. This way I won't be reaching under the table fumbling for the power switch. 
Now that I read what you said about the crank being "over rated" you inspired me to move forward and get it done. 
Thanks! 
Tony


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tony

You're Welcome 

The paddle Kill switchs are great BUT it's so easy to put a dual outlet and a switch on the side of the cabinet,,,one plastic remodel box,one dual outlet,one switch and you have it done for about 5.oo dollars, you always end up on the outfeed side of the cabinet the norm,it's so easy to just put your hand down on the left side turn it off and to pull the plug for the router, I don't recommend the front side of the cabinet for any outlets,they are behind the switch the norm or on the inside of the cabinet and it's just a pain to unplug them and in time you will not pull the plug..

Most of us are lazy and you must make it easy or you will not do it every time.. 

I will say I do put mind almost in the center of the cabinet side, that's because I use both sides of the router table top...I just flip the fence around for the big stuff..just more flat top space..

========





tjcarita said:


> Bj ,
> I was thinking of repositioning my router on the insert so the crank is in the front where it won't be covered by the fence. I'm going to install an easy to reach paddle Kill switch w/outlet for the vac. This way I won't be reaching under the table fumbling for the power switch.
> Now that I read what you said about the crank being "over rated" you inspired me to move forward and get it done.
> Thanks!
> Tony


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## BillP (Feb 24, 2009)

*Triton Router*

I just purchased the TRC001 Triton router and installed it in the new router tables that garybaritone and I built. You can see the pictures under table top routers titled two new routers posted yesterday 2/24. I agree with teh other comments that you do need the wrench to change bits and there are two ways to lock the shaft. Raise the router to max height or there is a button on the side that you can push to lock it. I purchsed the offset wrench from Sommerfeld so that I can remove bits from the top without moving the router position.


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Tony
> 
> You're Welcome
> 
> ...


Bj, 
Too late Bj, I saw pic's of woodnthings switch on the forum and ordered the switch form Grizzly soon after. I picked up two boxes at Home Depot and an outlet. The switch was only $10 bucks and the boxes & outlet was about $10 so not to bad in cost. I liked the big paddle that I can slam with my knee if I need to. Why don't Triton make the crank a little longer. mY fence is 4" H and when the bit is low the crank hits the fence. I move it to the front like you said and that worked great.
Thanks
Tony


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tony

Your're Welcome 

No big deal to make a longer one,,,pickup some 3/8" brass rod at the hardware store ( about 12" to 24" long) clamp it up in the vise and put a ( Z bend ) in it,(use your propane torch to heat it up to bend it at a true right angle ) then take your Dremel or hack saw and put a slot in the end of it,just the same as the Triton one,then put a wooden knob on the other end...if you want it to spin just pull your tap and die set out and put on so 3/8 threads, drill a small hole for a roll pin under the knob, slip on a washers and lock nut ,, then you have a nice tall one..  put in a pocket hole on the bottom side of the knob to hide/hold the roll pin in place)
A 1 1/2" dowel rod works great for a knob..or just some hardwood.
===



tjcarita said:


> Bj,
> Too late Bj, I saw pic's of woodnthings switch on the forum and ordered the switch form Grizzly soon after. I picked up two boxes at Home Depot and an outlet. The switch was only $10 bucks and the boxes & outlet was about $10 so not to bad in cost. I liked the big paddle that I can slam with my knee if I need to. Why don't Triton make the crank a little longer. mY fence is 4" H and when the bit is low the crank hits the fence. I move it to the front like you said and that worked great. But a taller crank would be nice. Any Ideas?
> Thanks
> Tony


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Do you have a welder? Why not jut buy some steel rod and cut it to length and then cut of the old wrench and spot weld it onto the new shaft to the length you require?

If you heat the steel rod up using a torch you can then put in a vice and put the necessary bend in it to act as a handle. Go to a electronic store and buy some shrink tubing (or some plastic sleeve at a box store such as Home Depot) and fit it to the steel rod diameter and heat it up. 

The other option you can do that I have done is to use a tool and die set and cut some thread into the rod and then thread on some nuts matching your TPI (Thread per inch) buy a plastic handle to fit into the plastic knob. I have used 5/16" nut and handle to achieve the results I have outlined in this post.

Hope this helps.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Sorry I did not see Bob's post lol great minds think alike.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi TRN

Right on , the one that comes with the Triton is Alum.so welding on some steel rod is out  but making one out of some steel rod would work, the brass will shine/buff up real nice  plus it's a bit essayer to work with 

===



TRN_Diesel said:


> Sorry I did not see Bob's post lol great minds think alike.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Tony

I like the idea of having a longer crank too, so it said lets go make one...
I had some brass rod in the brass scrap can that was just the right size (3/8" diam.) and about 14" long,, no need to bend the brass, just drill a 1/4" hole in one end and then put in a slot to slide over the roll pin ,on the other end put in two small slots on the end of the rod to to hold the knob in place..(1/32" x 1/2" long)

I use the Dremel table to put in the small slots in...then just pull the parts off the Triton crank and tap them in place, then you have a nice long crank 

it's about 1 hour job or less 

==========


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> HI Tony
> 
> I like the idea of having a longer crank too, so it said lets go make one...
> I had some brass rod in the brass scrap can that was just the right size (3/8" diam.) and about 14" long,, no need to bend the brass, just drill a 1/4" hole in one end and then put in a slot to slide over the roll pin ,on the other end put in two small slots on the end of the rod to to hold the knob in place..(1/32" x 1/2" long)
> ...


Well Well will you look at that! I think we have few genius's on this forum. I looked up the definition of Genius and you fit the description Bj. The best Ideas are simple ones. Now you won't be hitting the fence anymore! Nice work Bj! Looks great!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Tony

Now I need to see yours 

I'm not to sure why they (Triton) made it so short, but we took care of that error,with your ideal and my scrap brass 

========




tjcarita said:


> Well Well will you look at that! I think we have few genius's on this forum. I looked up the definition of Genius and you fit the description Bj. The best Ideas are simple ones. Now you won't be hitting the fence anymore! Nice work Bj! Looks great!


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Thanks Tony
> 
> Now I need to see yours
> 
> ...


I look all over my shop for some brass rod or anything I could use to make one. No luck on finding what I need so I'll have to go and buy some brass or Aluminum rod. Your idea is so simple and effective I wonder why Triton didn't just make the rod longer so it would clear a 4" fence. I checked to see how much height I would need and for me 2" would be just about right. Did you take a look at the router table I built? That was my first table I have it sitting in my work bench where my chop saw was. I move the chop saw so I could have more room to cut crown molding. 
Have you used you new extension yet? Looks GREAT !!!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Tony

That's a nice router table 

You don't need to use brass or Alum. if you don't have any in the shop, pull a 3/8" dowel rod out and put a collier ( ring ) around the one end, it can be just about anything you have in the shop,some thin wall tubing,pipe,copper tubing, just about any thing will do the job..  

=======





tjcarita said:


> I look all over my shop for some brass rod or anything I could use to make one. No luck on finding what I need so I'll have to go and buy some brass or Aluminum rod. Your idea is so simple and effective I wonder why Triton didn't just make the rod longer so it would clear a 4" fence. I checked to see how much height I would need and for me 2" would be just about right. Did you take a look at the router table I built? That was my first table I have it sitting in my work bench where my chop saw was. I move the chop saw so I could have more room to cut crown molding.
> Have you used you new extension yet? Looks GREAT !!!!


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

Bj, 

I just took another look around. I have some small 1/4" brass rod I use to build a model swamp boat for my Grandson. I don't have the right size dowel's either. I even eyed my wife's wooden spoons but their to short. Don't tell her I did that! Yikes!  I'll just have to head for the store soon. It's been to cold in my shop anyway but come this weekend It's going to hit near 80 here so I'll be working happily in my shop nice and warm again. I have to make a picture frame for my wife. She want an oval frame for her parents picture.
I like the idea of your metal rod so I'll find some at the store and get that. 
Thanks for the compliment on my table. I did turn the router so the crank sat in the front right side. Much better to use. I post a pic of my extension when I get it made this week end. 





bobj3 said:


> HI Tony
> 
> That's a nice router table
> 
> ...


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

Bj, 
To see some of my work go to You Tube, type in tjcarita and take a peek.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Very nice Tony

I hope Mike takes a peek at the link below he is making a Mail Box

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M7UIweFQkk8&f


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tjcarita said:


> Bj,
> To see some of my work go to You Tube, type in tjcarita and take a peek.


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

Thanks Bj ! 
I'm headed for the sack.. have a great night! 
Tony


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome Tony

By the way my son's name is Tony also 

Not Anthony just plain,,,, Tony  no middle name 


==



tjcarita said:


> Thanks Bj !
> I'm headed for the sack.. have a great night!
> Tony


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> HI Very nice Tony
> 
> I hope Mike takes a peek at the link below he is making a Mail Box


Too fancy.  Heck Bob, we're out in the country. 
Thanks for the link.


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

Bj,

I just noticed you posted my mailbox pic. I have a pic taken at a different angle I'll post it here. I made that mailbox post from looking at a picture. I don't have a plan for it. But I do have a plan for a the one that's installed in the lawn. 

For the record, Anthony is my real name and Anthony is my Grandsons name also. My family has too many Anthony in it. I think There 7 in all. I like Tony. That name has been with me for nearly 50 years. Oh! and my wife only calls me Anthony when I goof up somthing. 





bobj3 said:


> You're Welcome Tony
> 
> By the way my son's name is Tony also
> 
> ...


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

Woops ! didn't see Mike's post, 
Hi Mike, 

I have one more to show you. It's very simple and easy to make. But I don't have a plan. Just looked at a picture. My neighbor bought it from me so I cold take measurments for you if you need me to. 



AxlMyk said:


> Too fancy.  Heck Bob, we're out in the country.
> Thanks for the link.


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

Bj
Looks like I'm on the wrong forum posting my pic's for Mike. seems he already got started on his mailbox post. It's looking good!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Very nice Tony as is Mike's, BUT, carpet on the shop floor!!!!!!!!!!!


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

I know I know .. bad move! We had just moved into this house and I had this carpet that didn't work in the house so I just unrolled it in the garage to save space when we moved in. As time went by I just left it there until one day when I just cut it up an put out for trash. It's gone now! Clean up is much easer now! 



harrysin said:


> Very nice Tony as is Mike's, BUT, carpet on the shop floor!!!!!!!!!!!


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

Hi Bj , 
I picked up some aluminum rod the other day and made an extension for my Triton crank. My fence it only 4" high so I made a 2 inch long extension to attach to the original one. It's like a socket extension and it clears the fence with no problem. I made it fit tight so it won't fall off.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Very nice job, Tony looks like you took your time with it 

nice job 

======





tjcarita said:


> Hi Bj ,
> I picked up some aluminum rod the other day and made an extension for my Triton crank. My fence it only 4" high so I made a 2 inch long extension to attach to the original one. It's like a socket extension and it clears the fence with no problem. I made it fit tight so it won't fall off.


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Very nice job, Tony looks like you took your time with it
> 
> nice job
> 
> ======


It didn't take to long. Aluminum drills easyly and I had the pin already. My son said I should make some up and sell them on ebay. What to you think?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Tony

You bet,,I can see many Triton owners that would want one...think about the bread wrapper,it started off in some garage somewhere..

Here's one to think about , my sister and her son got in on the Nike shoe for base ball players,he played for LA ,,way back when and it came out the garage shop 

=========



tjcarita said:


> It didn't take to long. Aluminum drills easyly and I had the pin already. My son said I should make some up and sell them on ebay. What to you think?


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> HI Tony
> 
> You bet,,I can see many Triton owners that would want one...think about the bread wrapper,it started off in some garage somewhere..
> 
> ...


I'm retired and have plenty of time on my hands. It would keep me busy and It could make a few Triton owners happy of a small fee. I guess I'll make a few up and see what happens. This thread got us a useable Crank for our routers. Well worth the ever typed word. 
Anyway Bj , Thanks for the compliment.

Someday I'll post my Bathroom Vanity Draw Idea. Everyone is surprised when I show them what I did. Right now I'm off to get some shut eye.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

tjcarita said:


> Hi Bj ,
> I picked up some aluminum rod the other day and made an extension for my Triton crank. My fence it only 4" high so I made a 2 inch long extension to attach to the original one. It's like a socket extension and it clears the fence with no problem. I made it fit tight so it won't fall off.


Nice pictures and great work Tony a sign of a true craftsman. I do have one question for you though. I noticed the crank is situated to the right side of the table. Is it possible to have it located on the left side so you can bring a bloc up to gauge the height if you need to adjust the height of the bit. For example when doing rails and stiles or if you have one already cut and want to make another one and match them both up so they mate equally?

Or am I way out to lunch on this seeing I do not have one yet?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Tony

Make a hand full and use the forum for test sale spot ,you can put them on the forum for free, and if it works out talk to Mark about running a add on the forum..after all this would be the place to sale them .. 

http://www.routerforums.com/tool-swap-n-sell/

=========





tjcarita said:


> I'm retired and have plenty of time on my hands. It would keep me busy and It could make a few Triton owners happy of a small fee. I guess I'll make a few up and see what happens. This thread got us a useable Crank for our routers. Well worth the ever typed word.
> Anyway Bj , Thanks for the compliment.
> 
> Someday I'll post my Bathroom Vanity Draw Idea. Everyone is surprised when I show them what I did. Right now I'm off to get some shut eye.


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> HI Tony
> 
> Make a hand full and use the forum for test sale spot ,you can put them on the forum for free, and if it works out talk to Mark about running a add on the forum..after all this would be the place to sale them ..
> 
> ...


That's a great idea Bj, I will do that soon. I'm almost done with the jig. I have been planing and disigning the jig for tha past two days. I'm so tired!. I just orderd two bushing for the jig and as soon as I get them I'll be setting up for a small prouction run. 
Thanks for taking intrest in this idea. It great talking with yoiu. I'll be spending tomorrow in the shop getting set up. I'll get back to you soon. I'm off to get some ZZZZZZ's. 
Have a great night ! 
Tony


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

One more thing before I go! I did a cad on the extension. This is a print screen of it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Tony

That's nice ,, I would suggest you make them in 3 sizes 3", 4 1/2" ,6" some use a tall fence  

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tjcarita said:


> One more thing before I go! I did a cad on the extension. This is a print screen of it.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Nice pictures and great work Tony a sign of a true craftsman. I do have one question for you though. I noticed the crank is situated to the right side of the table. Is it possible to have it located on the left side so you can bring a bloc up to gauge the height if you need to adjust the height of the bit. For example when doing rails and stiles or if you have one already cut and want to make another one and match them both up so they mate equally?
> 
> Or am I way out to lunch on this seeing I do not have one yet?


It seems your post has been hijacked.  The short answer is no. To do this you would have to turn the router around and that would put the crank on the back left (under the fence). On the right front it should not be in the way.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI curiousgeorge

It's no big deal, it can be in the left side or the right side of the bit,,just by drilling 4 new holes to hold the router in place 

==========



curiousgeorge said:


> It seems your post has been hijacked.  The short answer is no. To do this you would have to turn the router around and that would put the crank on the back left (under the fence). On the right front it should not be in the way.


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

Hi curiousgeorge, 
You make a good point here. I can't turn my router because of how it sits in my work bench but later when I build the cabinet for it I will do as Bj suggested. He's always thinking! 

Bj, about making different lengths. The jig houses the blank for drilling and to make a different size would mean making a gig for each length. I could make new jig's later but My idea was to have it work like a socket wrench extension. Just add another 2" extension to it for a 4" extension.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tony

You did such a great job in drilling it I thought you did it on a lathe...after seeing yours I was going to take the time to chuck it up in my little lathe and redo the end on mind.. 


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93799
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95012
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=44859
http://littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniLatheUsersGuide.pdf
http://littlemachineshop.com/Info/MiniMillUsersGuide.pdf

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tjcarita said:


> Hi curiousgeorge,
> You make a good point here. I can't turn my router because of how it sits in my work bench but later when I build the cabinet for it I will do as Bj suggested. He's always thinking!
> 
> Bj, about making different lengths. The jig houses the blank for drilling and to make a different size would mean making a gig for each length. I could make new jig's later but My idea was to have it work like a socket wrench extension. Just add another 2" extension to it for a 4" extension.


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

Hi Bj, 
Nice Lathe, I was just at HF looking at them. Before I came up with my jig idea I thought I might do it on a lathe. But because money is tight around here I had to think harder. The jig cost me about $50 dollars to build, a lot less then a nice new lathe like yours!
I got my jig finished now. Using a drill press the jig will center a hole on both ends (must flip the part to drill other end) and the slot at the bottom as well. It also does the hole for the pin. I also put set screws in it for a way to align the blank. 
I have 10 in the works now but I'm quitting for today. I need a break I have been going at this project not stop for about a week now. I have a lower back problem and standing for too long is  Tomorrow is another day! 
I added a few photos of my jig here for you to see. 
Tony


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Tony

That's a neat jig  

Want to see something funny, see below , about 100 of them, they are 2 3/4" long . funny it didn't ring a bell until I saw the one you made again, I made 5000 of them along time ago for a job... 

*Tony*,, open your PM so I can send you a note....


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tjcarita said:


> Hi Bj,
> Nice Lathe, I was just at HF looking at them. Before I came up with my jig idea I thought I might do it on a lathe. But because money is tight around here I had to think harder. The jig cost me about $50 dollars to build, a lot less then a nice new lathe like yours!
> I got my jig finished now. Using a drill press the jig will center a hole on both ends (must flip the part to drill other end) and the slot at the bottom as well. It also does the hole for the pin. I also put set screws in it for a way to align the blank.
> I have 10 in the works now but I'm quitting for today. I need a break I have been going at this project not stop for about a week now. I have a lower back problem and standing for too long is  Tomorrow is another day!
> ...


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

Bj, 
I can't believe you already had those! Are the diameter and hole the right size? It sure look like it. 
Try the PM now. I hope I did it right? Let me know if it works? 
Tony


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tony

The PM worked just fine,,refresh your browser and it should popup with a note saying you have a new PM..

=======



tjcarita said:


> Bj,
> I can't believe you already had those! Are the diameter and hole the right size? It sure look like it.
> Try the PM now. I hope I did it right? Let me know if it works?
> Tony


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Tony
> 
> The PM worked just fine,,refresh your browser and it should popup with a note saying you have a new PM..
> 
> =======


Hi Bj, 
After making a big mess in my shop I think I got all the bugs out. 
I got a small lot of crank extensions made up for the Triton 2 1/4 HP Router. I put them up on ebay to sell for $12 each. For forum members I'll ask for a little less and ship them out for free. If anyone wants one. Maybe my part will inspire a few members to try and make their own. 
How did yours work out? Did it do it's job ok? 

Tony 


Oh! PS.... 
I was out shopping yesterday and came across a great deal. I bought 15 dressed 1" x full 6" x 8' maple boards for $120. I couldn't pass that deal up. They were blems but they didn't look to bad and I can work around the blems. I need to make a few cabinets to match the ones in our kitchen when I can find the time. 


http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190294361197&indexURL=0#ebayphotohosting


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tony

It works great,, get the top end over the fence no more scraped knuckles .


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tjcarita said:


> Hi Bj,
> After making a big mess in my shop I think I got all the bugs out.
> I got a small lot of crank extensions made up for the Triton 2 1/4 HP Router. I put them up on ebay to sell for $12 each. For forum members I'll ask for a little less and ship them out for free. If anyone wants one. Maybe my part will inspire a few members to try and make their own.
> How did yours work out? Did it do it's job ok?
> ...


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Tony
> 
> It works great,, get the top end over the fence no more scraped knuckles .
> 
> ...


I had no doubt that you efforts were sucessfull! It's just so nice to here about things that "work well" ! 
I made a new package for my Extender and changed a few pic's on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190294361197&indexURL=0#ebayphotohosting


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## mdorsam (Apr 14, 2009)

*Triton Router*

I don't own one; but I've seen the Triton used in the Kreg Tools & Sommerfeld (the respective owners are brothers, by the way) videos; and at the DC and Baltimore woodworking shows.

They must be doing something right.


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## joel74 (Jan 21, 2011)

If you do not raise the bit to the auto-lock position in theTriton, and use an offset wrench as you describe, what holds the shaft from rotating? Is there a way to use 2 wrenches? I don't see a second nut to hold. Thanks. Joel


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Joe

You should have a lock button that you can push in to lock the shaft.

=========






joel74 said:


> If you do not raise the bit to the auto-lock position in theTriton, and use an offset wrench as you describe, what holds the shaft from rotating? Is there a way to use 2 wrenches? I don't see a second nut to hold. Thanks. Joel


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

joel74 said:


> If you do not raise the bit to the auto-lock position in theTriton, and use an offset wrench as you describe, what holds the shaft from rotating? Is there a way to use 2 wrenches? I don't see a second nut to hold. Thanks. Joel


Hey Joel, 
No need for a second nut or two wrenches. When you raise the bit all the way up it automatically locks the shaft from turning and at that time you can use one wrench to brake the nut loose. Then with another half turn or more of the nut it will release the bit for easy removal. 
Hope this helps


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## joel74 (Jan 21, 2011)

I was asking how to lock it IF, to keep the bit at its present height while changing to a matched R&S bit and therefore you can't use the auto-lock feature. I didn't notice a lock button on my new 3.25hp Triton. I'll look more carefully in the AM. Hopefully, it's there. I'd like that option. And, I'll get a bent wrench for that purpose. So, a longer crank... bent wrench... are next. THEN I can rout wood! Thanks!


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

joel74 said:


> I was asking how to lock it IF, to keep the bit at its present height while changing to a matched R&S bit and therefore you can't use the auto-lock feature. I didn't notice a lock button on my new 3.25hp Triton. I'll look more carefully in the AM. Hopefully, it's there. I'd like that option. And, I'll get a bent wrench for that purpose. So, a longer crank... bent wrench... are next. THEN I can rout wood! Thanks!


Guess I totally miss your point. That's what it get for watching TV and using my laptop at the same time! LOL! :fie: Sorry about that! 

On my 2 1/4 HP Triton I have a button that I can push in and that also locks the shaft from turning. What I do is I make two scrap set's of R&S and use them to get my bit to the proper height when changing bits. 

Bobj3 answered your question correctly! :dance3:


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

tjcarita said:


> Guess I totally miss your point. That's what it get for watching TV and using my laptop at the same time! LOL! :fie: Sorry about that!
> 
> On my 2 1/4 HP Triton I have a button that I can push in and that also locks the shaft from turning. What I do is I make two scrap set's of R&S and use them to get my bit to the proper height when changing bits.
> 
> Bobj3 answered your question correctly! :dance3:


I took a picture of the button. I'm not sure if the 3.5 HP is different then the 2 1/4 HP one.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Tony

Good to see you 
If you don't move the router up and down when you switch the bits out your joints will always come out just right every time no setup block is needed..just a rubber ring under the router bit to drop the bit on at the same point every time, like they say , set it and forget it..  it's a one time thing.. 

=====



tjcarita said:


> Guess I totally miss your point. That's what it get for watching TV and using my laptop at the same time! LOL! :fie: Sorry about that!
> 
> On my 2 1/4 HP Triton I have a button that I can push in and that also locks the shaft from turning. What I do is I make two scrap set's of R&S and use them to get my bit to the proper height when changing bits.
> 
> Bobj3 answered your question correctly! :dance3:


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> HI Tony
> 
> Good to see you
> If you don't move the router up and down when you switch the bits out your joints will always come out just right every time no setup block is needed..just a rubber ring under the router bit to drop the bit on at the same point every time, like they say , set it and forget it..  it's a one time thing..
> ...


Hi Bob, 
Good to see you too! It's been awhile! 
I forgot all about the O-ring trick! Glad you got that out there. It's a better way to set it. And like you say "forget it"! 
Just double check your work! That ring can be bumped!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tony

That's why I press one in the collet nut..(faucet washer) just the right size to stay in place.

http://www.google.com/search?q=fauc...QHAiYD5CA&sqi=2&ved=0CCEQsAQ&biw=1136&bih=604
=======



tjcarita said:


> Hi Bob,
> Good to see you too! It's been awhile!
> I forgot all about the O-ring trick! Glad you got that out there. It's a better way to set it. And like you say "forget it"!
> Just double check your work! That ring can be bumped!


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## tjcarita (Feb 1, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Tony
> 
> That's why I press one in the collet nut..(faucet washer) just the right size to stay in place.
> 
> ...


Thanks for that info Bob. I'll have to give that a try the next time I'm doing that type of work. Faucet washer...interesting! I got to say, Your always thinking!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

tjcarita said:


> I took a picture of the button. I'm not sure if the 3.5 HP is different then the 2 1/4 HP one.


Yes, my TRA001 is exactly the same.......


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