# Router table build



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I am repurposing an old workbench for my new router table.

When done, it will be a 24x48" router table with 3 places for routers. Each place will be 10x12". The top will be 3/4" ply for support with 1/2" ply on the top. The support will have 7x9" holes, providing a 1 1/2" rabbet-like overlap around the edges of the insert plates. The insert plates will be made of the same 1/2" ply as the top.

Progress pics:


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Looke like it's going along quite nicely.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Looks good Chris but I don't know about your template for the inserts. Unless you use an oversize guide bushing or bearing, I don't see how that will work. Even then the radius of your corners may be too big. I think that I would make the template exactly like the hole, filing and sanding to get it just right. Then use a straight bit with a bearing (or guide bushing) that's the same size as the bit to cut the inserts.

Maybe I'm missing something.


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## Maroonram (Jul 10, 2012)

Chris;

Nice idea and it looks like it's coming along quite well. Kreg makes some nice levelers for your router plates that would work well with your design.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Paul, I was unsure about it too, but the math and logic of it seems to make sense. 

It is 3/8" short on all 4 sides, and I will use a 1/4" bit with a 3/4" outer diameter bushing, which will put the inside/cutting part of the bit 3/8" away from the template. Around the corners, the square corner of the template becomes the center of a semicircle which has a radius of the distance to the cutter (in this case, that will be 3/8"). Since the female was made with a 3/4" bit, the corners also have a radius of 3/8", so I SHOULD get a corner that fits the female part exactly.

I'll definately take pics of the process and post them. Perhape we will all learn something from it.


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## Cunning (Nov 25, 2012)

*router table*



Chris Curl said:


> I am repurposing an old workbench for my new router table.
> 
> When done, it will be a 24x48" router table with 3 places for routers. Each place will be 10x12". The top will be 3/4" ply for support with 1/2" ply on the top. The support will have 7x9" holes, providing a 1 1/2" rabbet-like overlap around the edges of the insert plates. The insert plates will be made of the same 1/2" ply as the top.
> 
> Progress pics:


Chris have you ever considered using 3/8"to 1/2" rino glass for your table? not saying there anything wrong with using plywood but I made my firsts one with plywood just about the same way you are making yours now and i found it to weak and saging after a year or so. So I broke down and purchased a 3/8 thick pieces 3'x3' of rino glass it set me back $25.00 bucks but it didn't sag and it worked great the only reason i replaced it was that i got a 1/2"piece of aluminum Free! then i cut it down to 27"by 30" with my Dewalt router 3 1/2 hp and then i routed the base of the router that i was going to use for the table so in the big picture the rino glass would last you a very long time. I'm not knocking the tables i think it looks great i'm just telling you how it went for me. Anyway Chris my name is Chris also and i just wanted to give you a little input on what i went threw Hope to talk more and just have fun with what ever you make. Bye for now!


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

chris, i have never even heard of rino glass. do you have a link to a website that describes it?

also, i am having a hard time seeing how 1 1/4" thick plywood supported by joists could possibly sag.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

not alot of progress tonight ....

but i got the holes cut in the 3/4" ply

and i was not 100% happy with the template because it was just a tad too narrow, so i put some tape on the sides to thicken it a little.

in the 3rd picture, those are my 3/8" thickness bars on the left and right of the template

i also ground down some cap bolts i got for the milescraft router template kit and put the plate on.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Making good progress, Chris.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

The drawers are finished?


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Dan, I can't do the drawers because I didn't get the measurements and have not been back to get them yet. That house is 2 1/2 hours away, and it is closed up for the winter.

I also haven't finished the drawers for the workbench. The whole shop is in flux, and my previous router table was junked, so I need to get this done before I can get back to the point where I can make more drawers.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I got the table top glued up tonight. the one fancy thing i did here was to embed some tee-nuts in he middle so that i can secure it to the base from below. i did the same thing for the drill press an it has worked out great.

i made a little jig to make the countersinks for the tee-nuts. I know that normally one would do the cuntersinks first, but I already had the holes in the base from a previous top I had on there, so I needed to come at it from below.

tomorrow i will clean up the edges and glue from the insert openings. opinions on a nice wood to use for the edge?

in the the last pic, it is actually secured to the base, and that is every F clamp i own!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Coming along nicely, Chris.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

QUESTION:

The top piece of ply is nice, it is the sande hardwood plywood. I like the outer veneer, but it is unprotected.

I was originally thinking about using some countertop refinishing epoxy paint, but I'd like to keep the wood grain from the ply's veneer visible if I can.

So, what clear finish can (should) I use to protect it and keep it smooth so wood I an routing glides over it nicely (and still be able to see the wood)? I think it should stay light in color to enhance being able to see the work piece.

Also, with a light tan-ish/brown-ish top, what would be a good hardwood for the band around the edge?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Chris, I hope you realize that by not using Formica you will be spending regular time to maintain your table top? Any contrasting hardwood will work for edging; what do you have available? Once your edging is in place you might try clear Watco danish oil. This is a varnish used to give the wood a hard finish. Once it has fully dried (perhaps a week?) you should give it a good coat of Johnsons paste wax. Buff it out and apply another coat. Do not use automotive wax since they contain silicone which could effect the finish on your project wood. You will need to renew the wax on a regular basis. For me Formica was a better choice. All it needs is a quick spray with Windex and a quick wipe to keep it clean and slick.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I cleaned up the glue and started working towards making the template for the insert plates.

Pic 1: 

The first uses of the new table. I used the center router with my circle jig to make a hole in a plate for the plunge router with the new milescraft template base. Then I used the plunge router in the left opening to try a proof of concept of the idea I had about how to make a male part for a female opening. Note that these are makeshift plates to help me make the real template for the inserts.


Pic 2: 

The template with the square corners does indeed result in rounded corners, which have a radius of the distance to the bit. In this case, I used a 1/4" bit with a 1" bushing, making a 3/8" distance. This does fit very nicely in the corners of the openings in the table.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Mike, thanks. I'm not totally against formica. It's just that I like the look of this plywood and think it would look nice if I didn't cover it. 

But I'll ask at the big box store about it; I assume I can find out more about it there. I want to learn more about it anyway.

If I end up going with formica, then I will also want to also cover the inserts with formica. Either that, or I'll need to build in a way to level the plates. The plan until now has been, since the plates will be made out of the same ply as the top, no leveling mechanism should be necessary.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

If you decide to try the Formica Chris look for a Formica sheet with a broken corner. The stores will discount a piece like that even though it will make no difference for you. It cuts nice with a 50 tooth combination blade on a table saw. Once your piece has the hardwood edge in place increase the length and width by 1" so you have a small overlap on all sides. I have found Weldwood contact cement works the best for attaching it. Apply the cement to the table and the Formica, let it dry for about 10 minutes and then get someone to help you lower it into place. Once it touches it will not move. Make a pass around the outside with a chamfering bit and you are done. Smooth or textured Formice makes no difference in how it works; go with what ever is cheapest. The Formica increases rigidity and locks out moisture. This is how most commercial tables are built.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I made the master for the plates tonight. Using the template with a 3/8" offset bushing/bit, it came out perfectly.

Then I made the first copy. That didn't go quite as well, because the bit came loose and chewed a little spot on the side, but it still fits well. I guess I didn't tighten it enough.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

I made 3 more plates today. I used carpet tape and a flush trim bit to copy the master. 

Then I attached routers to 2 of them. 

In the picture, the 1/4" fixed base router is in the middle hole, and one of the 1/2" plunge routers is in the right hole. I have attached the router and it has a 3/4" bit, but I haven't plunged it through the plate , because I am not 100% sure that is the size hole i want for it yet. The left hole has a blank in it.


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## MasterSplinter1 (Jan 27, 2013)

Great job Chris


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

Excellent build Chris. Look forward to seeing it complete.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

thanks guys. mastersplinter, i just threw it out there as some more things to look at as you are building your table.

brett, it is functional today. the "fence" is simply a straight piece of wood.

my first table had a lift, and it was fine, but not really necessary as the 1/4" one has a mechanism to raise and lower it from above already, it is so easy to pop them out that setting the height on the others is a piece of cake.


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## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

Nice work.. Good to see somebody thinking outside the box. I would suggest laminate for the top. Will make things much easier..Jack


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