# Oak Park Spacer Fence Package?



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Finally got the OP package. here it is fresh out of the box.







Was hoping to get more instructions on using the spacer fences for making a box joint. Will try to download some online.
Got Dovetail liner kit that show a picture of the mounting hole for the Oak Park table top.
Do I just center the bit hole & drill holes  in my table to mount it?
Do I need a different set of holes for each spacer fence?
Anyone have downloadable instructions for the OP spacer fences?


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Bogydave said:


> Finally got the OP package. here it is fresh out of the box.
> View attachment 18474
> 
> Was hoping to get more instructions on using the spacer fences for making a box joint. Will try to download some online.
> ...


Dave, I just clamp the jig to my table. Peruse book you have in the picture. I believe you'll find some good set up info beginning on page IV-2 of the appendix.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dave

Corey did a great show and tell for this one..
http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/3260-mounting-oak-park-box-jig-non-oak-park-table.html

" Do I need a different set of holes for each spacer fence? "
Yes and No  
You may, the 3/8 one may need two holes or more to lock it in place if you use for the sliding dovetails...

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Bogydave said:


> Finally got the OP package. here it is fresh out of the box.
> 
> Was hoping to get more instructions on using the spacer fences for making a box joint. Will try to download some online.
> Got Dovetail liner kit that show a picture of the mounting hole for the Oak Park table top.
> ...


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

AH; A hidden little gem in the back of the book.
Found it.
Thanks
With the material being so slick, have you had any trouble with it moving on the table as you use it?


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

Dave, i just finished mounting my new jig set to 1/4 inch mdf. on 2 of the jigs, i had to add 2 extra holes. now the mdf is the same length as the depth of my table. i plan to just clamp the mdf to the table and i wont be drilling any holes in my table.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Bogydave said:


> AH; A hidden little gem in the back of the book.
> Found it.
> Thanks
> With the material being so slick, have you had any trouble with it moving on the table as you use it?


Nope. Made 18 drawers for my kitchen and, not a hitch.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dave 

You may want to think how you are going to mount them to the top..
With the jig you made for your fence it would be a great way to pickup all the chips that you will get from making box joints..you will have tons of them 


see below

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Bogydave said:


> Finally got the OP package. here it is fresh out of the box.
> View attachment 18474
> 
> Was hoping to get more instructions on using the spacer fences for making a box joint. Will try to download some online.
> ...


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI Dave
> 
> Corey did a great show and tell for this one..
> http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/3260-mounting-oak-park-box-jig-non-oak-park-table.html
> ...


Have been reading this thread and Corey's show and tell thread with keen interest. What advantages do box joint jigs like the ones being discussed have over a jig like this one at the top of page 108?

http://books.google.com/books?id=NM...&oi=book_result&resnum=13&ct=result#PPA108,M1

With this jig, the previous cut is placed over the guide pin which is built into the backing jig. This jig uses a miter slot to guide the jig but a sled that had a bottom runner that is guided by the table edge rather than the miter groove in the tabletop could work too. No need to drill holes in the tabletop for the jig.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Skyglider

OP TYPE = All I can say they work every time over and over...

What Is UHMW?
(Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene)

Characteristics:

* The highest abrasion resistance
* Outstanding impact strength even at low temperatures
* Excellent sliding material due to low coefficient of friction
* *Self-lubricating*


The one on page 108 is a bit lame if you take a real hard look at it..
It will do one side but you have 8 sides to do and every one of them must be dead on..if the guide is off to one side for the one they will be all off, page 8 , that's the 1st.error then the guide bit will ware and that the 2nd.error,then you need to make 3 just like the one on page 8 one for 1/4",one for 3/8" one for 1/2" that's the 3rd.error so to speak,,, that's means the guide for the jig needs to be dead on, if it's off just a little bit you just found a new way to make some firewood box joints boxes...

Any time you push a jig in a slot, the jig will not run true it will be off just a little bit and then you need to drag it back over the bit, that makes the slot just a bit wider ever time..if you have two tracks it would work for a bit longer but ware if ware..(friction ) ..


I would say if you want to make your own use a brass guide in the router table and let the jig use the brass guide to keep it running true, no tee slot track needed and you don't need to drill any holes in the table top..



Screw Slot Router Bits

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_screw_slot.htm


see below


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Skyglider said:


> Have been reading this thread and Corey's show and tell thread with keen interest. What advantages do box joint jigs like the ones being discussed have over a jig like this one at the top of page 108?
> 
> http://books.google.com/books?id=NM...&oi=book_result&resnum=13&ct=result#PPA108,M1
> 
> With this jig, the previous cut is placed over the guide pin which is built into the backing jig. This jig uses a miter slot to guide the jig but a sled that had a bottom runner that is guided by the table edge rather than the miter groove in the tabletop could work too. No need to drill holes in the tabletop for the jig.


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## Skyglider (Nov 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Skyglider
> 
> OP TYPE = All I can say they work every time over and over...
> 
> ...


Dead on accuracy. I think I understand now. 
And that drawing you included explains the bushing guide method well.
Thanks,
Skyglider


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

There are many jigs on the market for making box joints and they all work. The difference is the Oak Park jigs cost less than most of them, the material slides easier on them and if you drill the two required holes your set up time is a couple of seconds. To top all that off I did a post showing how to modify the jigs to work with the vac-u-plate system. These are simply put, the best box joint jigs on the market.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome Skyglider

The jig in the drawing works very well I had one b/4 I got the OP type.

Just a note ***** the one in the drawing can also be setup to do though dovetails by using the 3/8" key pin , plus you can set it up for 3/4" box joints,by just making a new backer board. 



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Skyglider said:


> Dead on accuracy. I think I understand now.
> And that drawing you included explains the bushing guide method well.
> Thanks,
> Skyglider


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Mike where is that post to modify to make the jigs work with the vacu plate system? I saw it once and wanted to use the idea.

Can you post the link.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI NIck

Just a butt in post, he will not be on the forum until 9:00 or 10:00 PM the norm..


http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4602-oak-park-box-joint-jig-update.html


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## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Got it mounted,
Works good but when I used the 1/2" spacer, after 8 " it was 1/16th off.
mic'd tab & grove & are the same, .494. When I moved it one way or the other it got too loose or too tight. ???
is it just the nature of wood?
It fits together well so where am I going wrong?

The 4" box (mdf) has good joints but is also off just a little (probably 1/32)
Maybe every 4" I should just take off a 32nd? 
I bet 3-31/32" would fit perfectly. 
See picture with tape on a 8-1/2" joint with the 1/2" bit & jig. (3/4 oak faced ply)
Sure make a nice joint & easy to use.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

Looking good  it will take a time or two to get it just right...
When you put the brass bar in place it must be set just right, it must slide by free but not to free...try this put a business card on the fence guide and then move the jig just a little bit so the bit is right on the card...but you can just pull the card out..or to say if you spin the bit by hand the business card moves just a little bit.some bits are not true in diam.and that error can make a bad slot,,,but the card will help fix that error..

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Bogydave said:


> Got it mounted,
> Works good but when I used the 1/2" spacer, after 8 " it was 1/16th off.
> mic'd tab & grove & are the same, .494. When I moved it one way or the other it got too loose or too tight. ???
> is it just the nature of wood?
> ...


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hello bobj

i dont have a spiral upcut bit, but want to play with my box joint jig. can i use a straight cut bit just to experiment?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi levon

you bet, in fact they work better than the spiral bit  because you are not plunging ,just a clean push in slot 

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levon said:


> hello bobj
> 
> i dont have a spiral upcut bit, but want to play with my box joint jig. can i use a straight cut bit just to experiment?


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

thanks bobj, im sending you a pm with a question on another subject.


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