# Harry tests the Oak Park jig



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Today I decided to test the Oak Park finger joint jig and started by adding a stop to my new pusher which I had forgotten to do.
First impressions were that it was a piece of cake, however, as I progressed it became obvious that there were a few points to learn. For the first couple of ends I only clamped the wood to the pusher for the first cut, thinking that once the first cut was sitting on the fence all would be well. For later cuts although it was slower, I re-clamped the wood for each cut, I also found that holding another piece along side ensured that the work-piece was hard against the fence. It is essential that once the jig has been set, as proved by a test cut, really tighten the jig holding the screws with a screwdriver whilst tightening the wing nuts. Although the fingers did not end up symmetrical, it isn't a big deal, in the next few days I'll demonstrate correcting this using the ski mounted router. In summary, I think that this simple jig has great potential and I shall give an up-date in the not too distant future. Any input from experienced users would be appreciated as up to now the short note packed with the jig is all the instruction I've had.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Looks great Harry. The joints look great! Going to be a nice sized box. I am trying to envision how your going to use the skis to the the ends of the box joints.It's definitey going to have to sit up fairly high isn't it? Going to make a nice box Harry!

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Corey, I was intending to clean-up the joints on the belt sander but you have given me an idea, it could be done with skis using a straight bearing cutter. What I'm meant was routing a little off the top and bottom edges so that full fingers show.For the joints it will just need the box to be turned upside down for some cuts so that because the router is going clockwise, it must always head "into" the box so that there wont be breakout. Two heads sure are better than one Corey.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

That's not to bad for the 1st. one,,,,they will all get better ever time you make one.....
Here's a tip or two,,,, use a bit of math b/4 you start,,,that's to say try and make all the pins come out right on the ends...no need to put more ware on the bit if you are just going to cut off the errors anyway..and sometimes that's the easy way to do it, just recut the box parts after you have put the slots in.

1/8" or 1/4" wide pins just don't work well on the ends or look good....

Then once you have all the parts done for the box ,tape all 4 up and recut the ends so you don't have any hang over maybe just a tip that you can use the hand sander to clean up after the glue up...but put in the slot for the bottom part (base plate) b/4 you trim them off, just in case you some rip out on the ends besure to check where the slot for the base will come out you don't want it to show, sometimes you will need to drop and slot for the base part to hide the slot...this is true for the top as well, then once you have it true and sq. and all 6 parts glued and sanded remove the top on the band saw or the router table...the best way is to use the Magic Box way that Bob and Rick use to remove the top part...that's done on the router table...and must be done b/4 you glue it up...

One more note about removing the top, if you are going to use hinges the time to put the slot in for them is b/4 you remove the top part all the way...just drop the box on a 1/8" or 1/4" bit and put a slot in about 1/2" deep and almost all the way to the ends but stop short 3/4" from the ends...this will hide the hinges but not the butt of the hinge...

Just some tips 

Bj 





harrysin said:


> Today I decided to test the Oak Park finger joint jig and started by adding a stop to my new pusher which I had forgotten to do.
> First impressions were that it was a piece of cake, however, as I progressed it became obvious that there were a few points to learn. For the first couple of ends I only clamped the wood to the pusher for the first cut, thinking that once the first cut was sitting on the fence all would be well. For later cuts although it was slower, I re-clamped the wood for each cut, I also found that holding another piece along side ensured that the work-piece was hard against the fence. It is essential that once the jig has been set, as proved by a test cut, really tighten the jig holding the screws with a screwdriver whilst tightening the wing nuts. Although the fingers did not end up symmetrical, it isn't a big deal, in the next few days I'll demonstrate correcting this using the ski mounted router. In summary, I think that this simple jig has great potential and I shall give an up-date in the not too distant future. Any input from experienced users would be appreciated as up to now the short note packed with the jig is all the instruction I've had.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I appreciate you advice Bj. and normally, and probably when I'm not demonstrating the skis, I will try all those tips, but on this occasion to keep up the current interest in skis, I shall attempt it all that way.
I'm about to have an early night, it's 10.40 pm because I'm off to the Perth Wood Show tomorrow to see if anything tempts me. It will be strange not seeing Tom doing demonstrations this year, he usually draws-in the crowds. I will give my impressions after I return.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> . . . maybe just a tip that you can use the hand sander to clean up after the glue up. . .


I'm glad you mentioned that -
I started to - but I've stirred the pot enough lately 
Whenever I have excess like that--intentionally or accidentally - I know there are ways to clean it up with the router or table saw or backsaw etc etc
It's always seemed easiest to me just to use a sander.

Guess though - that goes back to there being several 'right' ways to do most things -- and everyone choosing the one(s) they like best.

In any case -- looks *nice* -
Love the dark wood.
Being the cheapskate I am I almost always work with pine or poplar or oak.
One of these days I'm gonna splurge on some exotics.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I have done it with a router bits BUT if they stick out to far the bit will rip them off because there is no backup stock to help hold them in place....it may only be just a bit of rip out but once it gone that's it you can't sand what's not there..  the end pins get most of the rip out and show up big time..

I have done it may ways, razor saw,band saw,table saw,back saws, but the triming of them to almost the right size works best for me then just a bit of light sanding, then they look great without any rip out to go back and fill or fix...

Take your card with you Harry and load up that blue car with tons of good stuff...Have a good time  by the way what is the temp.out side I know it's winter time down under,,, do you own a snow shovel ??    or do you know what one looks like ?? LOL LOL looks like a grain / coal shovel only shorter...and a bit lighter   no show I bet but tons of rain  


Have a good trip Harry
==============

By the way here's a chart or two that will help select the stock and how to get the slots and dovetails to gome out right...for 3/8", it's for the Incra jig but it also works on the Oak-Park jigs...

Pattern dovetail joints are perfect every time with your router and a spacer fence. 
Bob and Rick show you how to make the complex liner joint and great corner joints. This cookie box will get more attention than the cookies.


see snapshots below...

Bj 






harrysin said:


> I appreciate you advice Bj. and normally, and probably when I'm not demonstrating the skis, I will try all those tips, but on this occasion to keep up the current interest in skis, I shall attempt it all that way.
> I'm about to have an early night, it's 10.40 pm because I'm off to the Perth Wood Show tomorrow to see if anything tempts me. It will be strange not seeing Tom doing demonstrations this year, he usually draws-in the crowds. I will give my impressions after I return.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

harrysin said:


> Corey, I was intending to clean-up the joints on the belt sander but you have given me an idea, it could be done with skis using a straight bearing cutter. What I'm meant was routing a little off the top and bottom edges so that full fingers show.For the joints it will just need the box to be turned upside down for some cuts so that because the router is going clockwise, it must always head "into" the box so that there wont be breakout. Two heads sure are better than one Corey.


I got yah Harry! I have made my pin ends about 1/16 to long and sanded them down on the belt sander.. real close and then switch to the pad sander. Lots of ways to do it I guess, everyone has their favorite way. Hey Harry, have fun at the WWKing show! Why don't you take Tom's place at the show for him  

Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> 1/8" or 1/4" wide pins just don't work well on the ends or look good....


So you don't like the looks of the little ones ? I don't like the bigger ones myself... I love the look of the little 1/8 ones on a little jewelry case for a watch or bracelet or something like that. Funny what our different tastes are for stuff like this. That's what make the world go round huh bud? 

Think Harry will come home and have spent half his Sept retirement check ?  

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

I like the small ones also if they are are the same size in the board but if the ones on the ends are 1/8" or 1/4" wide when they should be 3/8" wide that's when I don't like to to see them in place .... 

I think Harry said he may look for a drill press I will be curious to see what he gets...

Bj 

============


challagan said:


> So you don't like the looks of the little ones ? I don't like the bigger ones myself... I love the look of the little 1/8 ones on a little jewelry case for a watch or bracelet or something like that. Funny what our different tastes are for stuff like this. That's what make the world go round huh bud?
> 
> Think Harry will come home and have spent half his Sept retirement check ?
> 
> Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Oh I get your drift Bob on the joints. Yup, can't believe the old fart doesn't have some kind of DP already or is he replacing. One thing is for sure, he will have to pay a lot more than we do. WHen I see what he pays for stuff down there I quit B... chn. The Spirocrafter goes for 139.00 in Aussie land!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bud

I think he has a DP but wants one of the new type (Digital) ones..

I don't get it ,why are items so high in Aussie land ? ? ? do half the boats sink on the way over..because they get the port and starboard backwards also..

Bj 



challagan said:


> Oh I get your drift Bob on the joints. Yup, can't believe the old fart doesn't have some kind of DP already or is he replacing. One thing is for sure, he will have to pay a lot more than we do. WHen I see what he pays for stuff down there I quit B... chn. The Spirocrafter goes for 139.00 in Aussie land!
> 
> Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Bud
> 
> I think he has a DP but wants one of the new type (Digital) ones..
> 
> ...



 :sold:


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Corey
> 
> I like the small ones also if they are are the same size in the board but if the ones on the ends are 1/8" or 1/4" wide when they should be 3/8" wide that's when I don't like to to see them in place ....
> 
> ...


I had a great day at the wood show, am totally exhausted, but here is a shot of the goodies that I couldn't resist. Will post more information in a day or so.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Looks like you had a great time  and made some great buys..

Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Sweet router Harry  ... Looks like you got a saw blade and arbor as well. Going to use that for general slotting like Bob does or for slotted hinges? Wood rack... check... can't tell what the rest of it is?

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

challagan said:


> Sweet router Harry  ... Looks like you got a saw blade and arbor as well. Going to use that for general slotting like Bob does or for slotted hinges? Wood rack... check... can't tell what the rest of it is?
> 
> Corey


Corey, here are the details of what I bought. I have things to do and places to go, but will be back later with the rest of the show details.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Good little bag of scores Harry! 

corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

challagan said:


> Good little bag of scores Harry!
> 
> corey


Alas, I returned home minus a drill press with digital read-out. Would you believe that NO ONE had ever heard of such a device, not even on the JET stand. I do of course have a 10 speed 1/2" one, also a mill drill same speeds and size, BUT, I like technology, especially digital readouts! I didn't see many new things, Triton have a second model router, only 1200 watts but it has the nice feature in a winder that you drop through a hole in the table and wind the router up and down, very convenient. Triton also had a 15" combined planer, thicknesser and moulder which comes complete with several sets of moulding cutters at a very competitive (for Australia) price of $AUS999.00. There were lots of beautiful craftwork and furniture, a few shots shown below. Hopefully I will get the new router installed next week and at some time my impressions of it, hopefully I won't need to put it on Graigs list!


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bummer Harry that you couldn't find a new DP like you wanted. Well, maybe next year huh! Thanks for the shots of the show wares. Did the guy create that clock using Tom's methods like you have?

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

challagan said:


> Bummer Harry that you couldn't find a new DP like you wanted. Well, maybe next year huh! Thanks for the shots of the show wares. Did the guy create that clock using Tom's methods like you have?
> 
> Corey


The student from the School of fine woodworkers who made the clock wasn't present at the time unfortunately.


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## unlimitedwoodworker (Mar 3, 2006)

i want to buy one of these! they arent too pricey either!


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