# Router table build is underway - w/pics



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

I started building my new router table this week, so I thought I'd post some pictures as I progress through the build. The original plan was for it to be attached to my table saw to save space in my small shop. That's still going to happen, but I modified it a bit from the original idea. Now it will be attached, but by removing a dozen bolts, it will become a free standing table. The top has four bolts through the cast iron extension of the table saw. I drilled holes in the cast, then drilled and tapped the top. Since it won't be carrying any weight, I opted for just tapping the wood and MDF rather than installing metal fasteners. The weight of the table will be carried by two poplar 1"x4" boards that are attached to the saw via four 1/4" x 1" aluminum straps. The table top sits on these boards which will also attach to the carcase with 5/16" bolts through the poplar and into tee nuts inside the cabinet. The cabinet will attach to the top with pocket screws. I had originally planned to attach to the fence guides with tee bolts, but doing so would have made removing the table from the saw nearly impossible, so the holes and slots in the bottom of the table will be for naught. 

This will be sort of Norm's ultimate cabinet, but as you can see, I added a drawer below the router. The back will be open behind the router. I just haven't gotten to that yet. The area where the router will hang is 12" x 12" x 18". I'm sure this is smaller than Norm's, but it is about the same size as the area under my Craftsman aluminum topped router table. I never felt that was too small to get at the router when I needed to. Since I'll be installing a plate, the size should be even less of a factor. I had to squeeze this area because the width is restricted by my table saw dimensions. I wanted to have realistically sized drawers on the sides for bits, etc. The open area for the drawers is 5 1/4" wide, so though they will be narrow, they should be usable. This is just a dry fit at this point. I have a lot to do before any glue hits the wood. The good news is what I have so far seems to fit pretty well. :happy:

My wife picked the laminate for the top...big mistake! I guess it's "pretty," but pencil lines just disappear on it. :shout: Oh, well, I guess there's masking tape. :bad:

I'll post more pictures in this thread as the project progresses. I tend to forget to stop and take pictures, so some of the steps went by without pics...sorry.


----------



## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hi Russ.
Nice project. Keep the pics coming.


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Nice one, looking very good so far.

How are you planning to fit the draws? On wooden runners , shop bought metal runners or some other way. I'm not sure how to do my draws but My carcass is planned to be built just how yours looks.

Keep coming with the photos. I know what you mean about forgetting to photo each step, I just seem to get so involved and then remember several steps later on.

Cheers Si


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

chickenslippers said:


> Nice one, looking very good so far.
> 
> How are you planning to fit the draws? On wooden runners , shop bought metal runners or some other way. I'm not sure how to do my draws but My carcass is planned to be built just how yours looks.
> 
> ...


Thanks, Si. As to the drawers, they are still kind of evolving in my mind. The small ones will obviously slide wood on wood. I think the one just below the router and the two left hand lower ones will probably slide on wood as well. The deep one on the bottom will probably have to be on a store bought runner since it will probably house a router and a base. That could change yet. I woke up this morning with another design change on the cabinet. Since I'm screwing the back to the cabinet (no glue), I think I'll add another cleat at the back for another way to attach the cabinet to the top. The nice part of building your own table is that you can customize it at will. The bad part of building your own table is that you can customize it at will. :'(


----------



## carlcath (Feb 27, 2009)

Interesting that you are building a router table for your table saw and I am wishing my router table was not a part of my table saw.

I have a 10 inch Craftsman saw with the router cutout and holes for mounting the router as a part of the table. 

I made many hundreds of feet of molding while building my house over the course of the last couple of years. I found the router and fence were always in the way when I wanted to make a crosscut or rip a larger piece of wood. 

I have many other saws including a drop saw and a circular saw so there was always a way around it but I always thought about getting a table for the router with locking wheels.

Let me know what you think of the arrangement when you get it made.


----------



## carlcath (Feb 27, 2009)

I forgot to mention, looks like you are doing a really nice job and not skimping on the screws either. Are you gluing the joints as well?


----------



## denis001 (Jun 2, 2008)

Hi Russ,
Very Nice. 
2 Questions:
1. Did you laminate both sides of the top?
2. How did you fasten the RT top to the TS top? I can see the bolt heads at the edge of the TS top, but, did you lag them into the edge of the RT top, or are they "carriaged" with a blind slot?

Just curious because I'll be making a similar deal for my Ridgid TS2424. I really like you idea of making it convertible from TS mount to console mount. I may do that too.

What's the dust collection strategy for when it's on the table saw? (I know, that three questions-I'll ask one less next time - lol).


----------



## bobbollin (May 4, 2009)

Nice looking job Russ! 

I will be following this because I have the same table saw and was thinking about building a router table attached to the right side as you are doing. Couldn't (didn't...gave up on it) figure out how to get around the complexities of having it match up with the tablesaw surface and still attach it to the side rails, so I just gave up and built Norm's with a few mods to fit me and my needs/desires.

Building a table is a fun thing to do and well worth the effort. By the way, I did all three of my big drawers with side-mounted slides and it wasn't all that difficult to do. (First time I ever did it.) I'm happy I did it that way because I have some weighty items in them and I think using wood glides like I did with the bit drawers would probably not work out as well.

Keep the pics coming please...and never let your wife pick out woodworking stuff!! :fie:


----------



## rdabbs (Mar 17, 2009)

Your table looks good, I think you will regret having it on the end of the saw. I started out this way and quickly realized that something was always in the way when I needed the router, had to move everything before I could start. I built a free standing table and have no regrets.


----------



## Dezri Dean (Jun 22, 2009)

Yup, I chose pure white laminate for that very reason. Looks a lot like mine!
Having it attached to the TS worked OK for me although I used the TS Fence as the router fence too so that I didn't have to remove it to crosscut or rip large panels.
When I rebuild the top (and one day I will) I *WILL* laminate both sides.
I used 3/4" MDF with holes for the bits in laid the bottom of the bit drawers, 6 drawer all told.


----------



## mlstclair (Jan 17, 2011)

Really nice job. Looks to me like you will be able to use the RT top as a side support for longer or wider pieces you might need to cut on your TS. Keep it going. Interested to see it when complete.


----------



## sanart (Oct 18, 2009)

Real nice Russ. I too have that TS. I reckon I can build a table to fit in by the right wing even if not attached to the table. Thanks for the write up and the photos and please keep them coming.
Thanks.

Art.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

carlcath said:


> I forgot to mention, looks like you are doing a really nice job and not skimping on the screws either. Are you gluing the joints as well?


I have lots of screws . Yes most of the joints will be glued...all but the back. I watched the video somebody posted and screwing it on made sense to me for the same reasons he outlined. The dadoed joints will be glued. The cleats will be screwed and glued. It was surprising how sturdy it was when I did the dry fit with just one cleat and the back screwed on. I think it will be hurricane-proof when the joints are glued up too, lol! 

Mine will not be in the way of my saw. My fence actually slides right over the RT. All I'll have to do is make sure I don't have a router bit sticking up :nono:

I wanted the extra length to my TS anyway. I had thought about making an extension table for the saw anyway, so this kind of kills both birds. :yes4:


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

denis001 said:


> Hi Russ,
> Very Nice.
> 2 Questions:
> 1. Did you laminate both sides of the top?
> ...


1. Yup!
2. Drilled and tapped the maple and mdf for 5/16 - 18 bolts. They are 2" long, so about 1 5/8" to 1 3/4" of treads in the wood and mdf. Just use care not to over tighten them. They just snug the RT top to the TS extension. The weight is on the poplar 1" x 4" supports and the cabinet when the saw is in the down position, which is where it will be 90+% of the time. At first I was going to tee bolt the top to the fence guides too, but changed my mind when I decided to make it removable from the TS. Then if I have a router job somewhere other than my shop, I take out the four bolts from the top and the eight bolts from the side supports, grab my hand truck and straps, and away we go. 
3. I'm making an auxiliary fence that will attach to the TS fence with tee-bolts. My vacuum hose will attach to that much like Norm's. I'll post pictures of it when it's a little closer to done. I kind of started it to see if it was what I wanted, but I've been working on the cabinet lately. The router area under the top will be open front and back. I just haven't cut the back out yet. What few chips end up there, I'll capture with my shop-vac when I'm cleaning up. I have yet to see a saw or router set-up that catches every bit of dust and chips. If you know of one, please post a video of it in action.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

bobbollin said:


> Nice looking job Russ!
> 
> I will be following this because I have the same table saw and was thinking about building a router table attached to the right side as you are doing. Couldn't (didn't...gave up on it) figure out how to get around the complexities of having it match up with the tablesaw surface and still attach it to the side rails, so I just gave up and built Norm's with a few mods to fit me and my needs/desires.
> 
> ...


I started out to build Norm's table, but because 1) I'm too cheap to buy his plans and 2) I decided my shop was too small for another table, I just decided to take his basic idea and wing it. It's slow going when you have to kind of design as you go, but it's cost effective, and I think I'll have a LOT better table than the one I have now while gaining some space in the shop.

Oh, and the wife will NOT be picking out anything for the shop again. :nono:

Thanks!


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

rdabbs said:


> Your table looks good, I think you will regret having it on the end of the saw. I started out this way and quickly realized that something was always in the way when I needed the router, had to move everything before I could start. I built a free standing table and have no regrets.


Well, if I don't like it attached to the table saw, a dozen bolts later, it's standing alone. This isn't my first rodeo!


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

Dezri Dean said:


> Yup, I chose pure white laminate for that very reason. Looks a lot like mine!
> Having it attached to the TS worked OK for me although I used the TS Fence as the router fence too so that I didn't have to remove it to crosscut or rip large panels.
> When I rebuild the top (and one day I will) I *WILL* laminate both sides.
> I used 3/4" MDF with holes for the bits in laid the bottom of the bit drawers, 6 drawer all told.


I think I'll get some white for the fences. I actually mark the fence on the table saw most of the time anyway, so as long as I can mare the fence and see it, I should be fine. 

I'll kind of be using the table saw fence, but I plan to attach an MDF fence to the right side of it with tee bolts. That will keep me away from the fence with router bits and give me a place for dust collection. 

Anything will be better than the black plastic fence on my Sears RT!

I'm doing my bit drawers kind of like that too. 

*******************************************************

I think I answered everyone's questions for now. I'll probably post more pics tomorrow. Not much to show from today unless I get some bit drawers made up. I had some other things to get done today...like blowing more SNOW :angry:


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

sanart said:


> Real nice Russ. I too have that TS. I reckon I can build a table to fit in by the right wing even if not attached to the table. Thanks for the write up and the photos and please keep them coming.
> Thanks.
> 
> Art.


If you like I can kind of clean up my pencil sketches and give you some dimensions when I get some free time. All the figuring and measuring is what takes the most time. 

Russ


----------



## Buddie (Jan 25, 2009)

Nice Job, Well Thought Out.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

*Bit drawer build*

Here are some pictures of the bit drawers as they are being assembled. I used 1/4" hardboard for the bottoms and 3/4" MDF for the bit stands. A note here: when you drill out the holes for the bits, you need to kind of rock the MDF on the bit after it is through or use a bigger bit. Since my brad point bits jump from 1/4 to 5/16 and 1/2 is as big as I have, using a bigger bit wasn't an option. If you leave the holes at drill size they will be VERY tight on your router bits. Any swelling of the MDF due to moisture will lock the bits in tight! 

Note also that I put the smooth side of the hardboard down so it will slide on the wooden glides more easily. I rabbeted the drawer front to fit over the hardboard then glued and brad nailed it together, but I just butted the MDF against it with some Titebond II to hold it in place. The hardboard is cut 1/8" narrower than the opening, so it should pull out easily. I don't think strength will be an issue. 

I made a couple of simple jigs to help put the drawers together. One is just a scrap of plywood with a 1/4" by 1/2" rabbet along the edge. I use this to center the bit block on the bottom, then I clamped it, flipped it, and stuck some 5/8" brad nails in from the bottom to hold it until the glue sets up. The other jig is kind of an ugly collection of scraps nailed together to help align the bottom hardboard to the drawer front so I can glue and nail it. The pictures explain that better than I can.

These four drawers are 4" deep, so they'll take up to a 3 1/2" bit easily. I don't have any even close to that long yet, but one never knows! I wasn't sure just where I wanted the holes, so they are two inches apart at the width and 1 1/2" and 2" on the length. I may have to add some holes in the middle if I get any really wide bits. There will also be two deeper drawers at the bottom (the same 5 1/8" wide front) so I can always make some bit blocks to just drop into them for extra large bits (which I don't own yet). I haven't started the actual drawers yet...still contemplating their construction. Fancy joints are kind of out with the plywood parts :sad:. This is NOT furniture grade plywood I'm working with here, so I've got to keep it pretty simple. I'll probably just rabbet the fronts, then glue and nail the sides on. I'm not sure if a dado for the bottom is necessary or not...probably a good idea since my shop is in the basement 

Well, guys, this is what I accomplished this evening. I'll keep plugging away at it and post progress pics when I can. My router plate is due here on Wednesday, so a new adventure awaits!


----------



## metzgeri (Feb 1, 2010)

Very nice, Russ!!!

I too have a small shop and your idea will fit my planned layout really nice. I have everything just scattered around willy-nilly. With your insight and post, I plan to now incorporate a table saw/work bench/router table all in one. 

Thank you,
Tim


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

metzgeri said:


> Very nice, Russ!!!
> 
> I too have a small shop and your idea will fit my planned layout really nice. I have everything just scattered around willy-nilly. With your insight and post, I plan to now incorporate a table saw/work bench/router table all in one.
> 
> ...


I'm glad I was able to so inspire you! So far the build has been relatively simple and straight forward. The planning, head scratching, measuring, remeasuring, obtaining parts, and so forth has been the most time consuming. A dado blade comes in handy, but you could do with just a router and shop made jig. I rarely through scraps, even pretty small ones away. I have several stacks: long, medium, short, and shorter. It gets used for jigs, stops, test runs, etc. 

A lot of the time, my table saw IS my workbench, even though I do have a couple of benches. The cast iron saw table is dead flat, so things I want assembled straight and square are generally done on the saw. It often means scraping glue off before I can use it, but it comes off pretty easily. 

Keep us posted on your project as well.

Russ


----------



## john880 (Aug 18, 2010)

Hey Russ hello,
In you post you never ask for any help, so I am sticking my neck aways out there. In the dust colection section, below you mounted router. You will I would guess are intending to cut you access hole there in the lower part of the back. Now from experiance if it is a round hole with a mating companion flange for your dust collection. You will have saw dust stack into those back lower corners. So now would be the time, while access is right there. To funnel the lower sides of that space into a, venturi (?) effect. from doing mine I might suggest, make sure that the side pannels are sealed or saw dust will build behing your funneled sides into the cavity below.
Next, a router cabinet can & often does become heavy. Spend the extra cash and but the better casters. The cheaper ones have a tendensy to flaten out the bottom side of the rubber sitting in one place.
Then, on that lower back side, you can build out a section of heavy duty peg board, allowing you to have access of the bigger sized items that routers take by having them hanging back there in the open.
And you will want to have a switch located where you can get to it handy, take a 2x piece of pine cut it slightly smaller than you cover plate. rout out the center, and fasten to the outside of this plate. Thus giving you a recess switch, which keeps you from throwing it on or off accidently.
Next to last, wire a hot sealed box duplex plug. with plate even with the outside, (mine is on the left side of the case) hot when the extension is pluged in. This would give you a place to plug in your flexable neck light (very very nice), and if needed a plug for you vacume. 
last, When you buy your extension (cut the female end off) for you table, buy at least a 12ga.. Mine is a 25' rummer coating not plastic, to stiff. You can mount a (TT)-looks like this-TT only the legs spread apart, to wind you cord up on. to the side of you casing.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

Hi, John. I'm not enclosing the back of the cabinet. My cabinet will look similar to this one when I'm finished:

YouTube - Deluxe Router Table..Improved

I plan to abscond with the switch from my old Craftsman router table since it has two outlets, one for the router and one for the vacuum. Power will feed through a junction box I'm installing behind the switch of my table saw, so I can plug in everything with one (12 gauge) cord. 

At present, I'm not planning for casters. When I need to move the table in the shop, I'll lift it with my table saw lift and move the whole works as a unit. Once I drop the saw dolly back down, the RT will sit on four 3/8" bolt heads threaded into tee nuts under the cabinet. that way I can adjust it to level out with the saw table. Since the weight will be straight down and added to the weight of the table saw, nothing will be moving around. The only time the weight will be on the casters is when I want to move it around. This will make more sense once I get things assembled and can take some pictures (one is worth a thousand words, you know). 

I will have my vacuum attached at the fence, which is where the majority of the dust and wood chips are anyway. 

Thanks for the suggestions though. I may find a way to incorporate some of them into my final product.

Russ


----------



## BearLeeAlive (Mar 22, 2010)

Looks like a table that will serve you great, Russ.  Great that you documented things with photos along the way. I always mean to do stuff like that, but just get going and forget. :wacko: Mine too is based on the NYW design.

I fully understand your statement about how much time the thinking and planning takes, for me it was likely more than the time spent building. 

I enclosed my table to help keep the dust down. There is virtually no dust escaping my table with the extraction on the fence and below. There is airflow from around the door and holes I drilled in the door, somewhat like Norm did.

I must admit I have a very different view of a router table than that the fellow in that link you provided has. Too each their own, but some of my observations are:
- His reasons from leaving it open are completely unfounded, and some of his claims are just wrong. Not that this really matters either way, it was just the way he states it is the only way to go.
- I agree that it is a good thing to adjust the height to your needs, but did you notice that his elbows are actually lower than the top, not a good idea.
- He claims that 4 drawers restricts the height of the bits, but if he did not put his tray up so high on the drawer fronts he would not have this problem
- His claims it is a waste of time and effort to build quality into a table, and with this I disagree. Yes, it is not necessary, but not only is it a good place to practice your skills, but it looks better and functions better. After all, do we all not do woodworking with the thought of producing nice stuff? 
- He claims that a cheap switch is just as good as a more expensive one designed for tools. I used a good paddle switch that cost about $15 and is much safer to use, yet he claims they cost way more and are not a good idea.
- He also claims the removable back is better for retrieving lost stuff. I could have all my drawer out in seconds, I bet he could not unscrew that back in the same time.

Sorry about this mini rant. I do look forward to seeing more photos of your table, especially of the finished product.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

BearLeeAlive said:


> Looks like a table that will serve you great, Russ.  Great that you documented things with photos along the way. I always mean to do stuff like that, but just get going and forget. :wacko: Mine too is based on the NYW design.
> 
> I fully understand your statement about how much time the thinking and planning takes, for me it was likely more than the time spent building.
> 
> ...



Good post, Jim. You make some great points. I would agree the thinking and planning take more time than the doing, but the outcome is better! 

I also agree that everything in the video is far from gospel. I have been a teacher for over 20 years, so I have gotten good at borrowing ideas (especially free stuff). One of the things I've learned is that, no matter what the idea, I have to make it work for ME. So I'm not following Norm or the guy in the video or anyone else to the letter. I also agree with you on most of the points you make about the video. The $1.29 switch is NOT a good idea! I want my switch in about the same location it is on my table saw: left front, and I want it to be a simple push-off for safety. I am right handed, so the front left switch lets me hold my stock with my strong hand while I turn the switch on-off with my left. I am also used to reaching for the TS switch, which I have positioned on the left front. By putting the RT switch in a similar location, I don't have to think about where it is. 

As I said in another post, my table saw often becomes my work table. The height has always been about right for me, so I see no reason why that won't be the case for my router as well. It comes out pretty close to the five inches below my elbow that I read somewhere was the right height for a router table. I'm only 5'9" tall, so I don't need anything to be very tall, lol!

He must have some really tall bits! I'm putting three 4" tall drawers and one 5 1/8" tall drawer on the bit drawer side, which is the right side for me because I'm right handed and want my tools and bits on that side. I also want to run the electrical in on the left because that's where the TS wiring comes in. 

I also think everything I build should be of high quality. Why put the time and effort into it otherwise? I know guys use it, but a cast off counter top isn't the best idea either in my opinion. That's why I chose MDF and laminated both sides. I also chose birch and maple for materials instead of the pine he uses. 

As to the dust collection aspect. I've been using my crappy Craftsman RT for years. It is open front and back. Some sawdust will collect under it but it is a relatively small amount. I also considered that I am using shop vacs for dust collection, so there is a limit to how much air they will move. With a two inch hose split into upper and lower, I'm afraid the volume of air moved would drop, leaving more dust and chips in both areas. I'm not an engineer, so I could be wrong about that. 

That brings me to the screwed on back. I didn't buy the retrieving a lost bit thing either. :nono: However, if I glue it on, then decide I should have had dust collection below, I could cobble something on there and make it work...but if I screw the back on, then decide I want to add dust collection I just unscrew the back and make a whole new one with the dust collection incorporated. True, it will cost me another piece of plywood...about 10 bucks...and I'll have the old back, but think of all the jigs I can make from it! :yes2: On the other hand I haven't cut the back yet, so I could still change my mind...again! One of the reasons for joining this forum and making this post was to get ideas like yours. Could you post some pics of your dust collection system along with the materials you used? The one I looked at online used 1 1/2" schedule 40 pvc, but I don't know how they hooked that to the 2" hose on the shop vac.

Thanks for the input...very timely I might add. :yes4:


----------



## Sparks (Nov 24, 2004)

*Nice! Drawer suggestion.*

Nicely done Russ!
It looks like you are well along the way to using it. I made a table that is a cross between the NYW and the table that Marc Sommerfeld builds in his "Router Tables Made Easy" instructional DVD, along with a change of my own.
Like the Sommerfeld table, I built NYW styled table like a stand-alone kitchen cabinet, with raised panel sides and back, and a rail and stile face frame. The sides and back are made of poplar. The face frame, drawers, and doors are oak.
If my timing is correct you haven't finished the drawers yet and would like to make a suggestion. My change to the combined designs was to have 2 drawers on one side and 3 on the other; not as asthelicly pleasing to the eye, but much more functional. The 2 drawer opening on the left are 6 and 1/2- inches high (to accomdate taller bits) and the 3 drawers on the right are 4-inches high.
Some day, when I have enough posts to allow it, I will post some pictures.


----------



## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

You can also use your left hip to turn of the TS, or router, when the correct switch is appropriately placed. This leaves 2 hands free for better control of the work piece.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

RJM60 said:


> You can also use your left hip to turn of the TS, or router, when the correct switch is appropriately placed. This leaves 2 hands free for better control of the work piece.


Yup, I forgot to mention that. Now, that would be hard to do with a light switch! :wacko:


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

Sparks said:


> Nicely done Russ!
> It looks like you are well along the way to using it. I made a table that is a cross between the NYW and the table that Marc Sommerfeld builds in his "Router Tables Made Easy" instructional DVD, along with a change of my own.
> Like the Sommerfeld table, I built NYW styled table like a stand-alone kitchen cabinet, with raised panel sides and back, and a rail and stile face frame. The sides and back are made of poplar. The face frame, drawers, and doors are oak.
> If my timing is correct you haven't finished the drawers yet and would like to make a suggestion. My change to the combined designs was to have 2 drawers on one side and 3 on the other; not as asthelicly pleasing to the eye, but much more functional. The 2 drawer opening on the left are 6 and 1/2- inches high (to accomdate taller bits) and the 3 drawers on the right are 4-inches high.
> Some day, when I have enough posts to allow it, I will post some pictures.


I will have three drawers and an electrical run on the left side and four drawers on the right. The bottom drawer on each side will be 5 1/8" deep. That will take a bit over 4 1/2" in overall height. If I have one longer than that 1) I'll be surprised and 2) I guess I'll have to design something to lay it flat...maybe a fitted case-type thing. 

Sounds like a nice looking cabinet you have there. If I had more time and fewer projects, I wouldn't mind attempting something like that. In my mind, I'm already designing a rolling cabinet with my drill press on one end and my band saw on the other, facing away from each other. When not in use, I could spin them sideways and up against the wall. Then I could just rotate out whichever one I want to use, lock the casters and go to work! one end would have drill bit storage drawers and a door for vises and jigs. A piece of conduit in between would act as a stand for my light. Laminate over cheap 3/4" plywood for the top and birch to match my router table for the cabinet...damn I've got to quit this or the boss will go nuts on me! :angry:


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Hey Russ,
that's looking good my friend. You are miles ahead of me. I have had problems getting wood.

I like your thinking regarding positioning of the start stop switch, I am also right handed but hadn't thought about holding the stock with strongest hand whilst the other switches it off.

I totally agree that this forum is brilliant for exchanging ideas, which comes in super handy to build the better ideas you like into your project in the planning stage.

keep the photos coming buddy.

Cheers, Si


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

*More pics - top drawer construction.*

I made up the top right-hand drawer today. Again, it's pretty simple construction. I didn't take pictures of me routing the dados and rabbets because that takes two hands, so I didn't have one left for the camera.:no:

I know this is not fancy joinery, but it will be sturdy enough for the purpose and the part that will be visible most of the time will look fine. As you can see from the pictures, I kind of had an afterthought. If this drawer is for my wrenches and stuff, I don't want to have to pull it all the way out if my wrench slides to the back of the drawer, so I added a divider. Had I thought of it ahead of time, I could have cut a dado for it. Instead, I just cut it snug and stuck some 1" brads through the sides of the drawer. It should hold anything I put in there! 

The other two small drawers will be constructed this way as well. I'm still debating on the larger drawers. Whatever I decide, I'll post some pictures. 

Coffee break is over. Time to get back down to the shop and make something.
:moil:


----------



## BearLeeAlive (Mar 22, 2010)

Russ, you have given me a good idea for my table, and that is to add a divider or two, at least on the one side. I keep wrenches and the height adjusting rod in one drawer, but the other top drawer is a mishmash of small pieces.

I had never used a drawer bit before, and did all my drawer boxes, including the bottom using it. Then nothing but glue and clamps and it will never let go. I had to do a fair bit of practicing to get the joint to fit good, but at least now I know how to use it for the next project.

I really like the paddle switch. I do have to use my hand to turn it on, so it can't be turned on by mistake, but can slap it off at any time without even looking.

Again Russ, really enjoying seeing the progress. I know you will enjoy your table. I finished mine in early March and have since put about 4,000 lineal feet of cedar through it building strips for a canoe, and probably another 1,000 of other wood making moulding for work. It is a joy to use. You likely have seen it on here, as I posted some finished photos of it a while back. The thread is here. LINK


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

*Right side prepped for the drawers*

I got the right side prepped for my drawers this evening. It took longer than it should have due to a couple mental glitches. An old friend died yesterday and my mind has been on him more than my work I guess. He lived a good long life, 91 years, but I'll still miss him. He taught me how to **** hunt and I got my first Redbone hound from him when I was about 14 or 15. We were neighbors (the country kind that are a couple miles away) and two of his sons were about my age. One graduated from high school with me and one with my wife. We hunted, fished, and generally raised hob around the countryside together. 

Sorry for getting off topic. Writing it was therapeutic though.

Anyway, here is a shot of the right side and the right vertical divider ready for drawers. I used 3/4" x 3/4" stock for the top and bottom because they are actual drawers while the middle ones are bit drawers. I have to work (substitute teaching) tomorrow and visitation for my friend is tomorrow evening, so even though my plate is due to arrive tomorrow, I probably won't get anything done before Thursday. So you'll just have to wait for the next installment.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

BearLeeAlive said:


> Russ, you have given me a good idea for my table, and that is to add a divider or two, at least on the one side. I keep wrenches and the height adjusting rod in one drawer, but the other top drawer is a mishmash of small pieces.
> 
> I had never used a drawer bit before, and did all my drawer boxes, including the bottom using it. Then nothing but glue and clamps and it will never let go. I had to do a fair bit of practicing to get the joint to fit good, but at least now I know how to use it for the next project.
> 
> ...


I had not seen yours. I just joined a few days ago. The wood is beautiful! I wish my plywood had that nice of grain in it. What did you use for finish? 

My switch is a push off type too. I'm going to use the one that is on my old RT because I have it and it's paid for, lol. Those old tables like mine go for about $25 on craigslist or ebay, so I'll just scavenge it then take the rest to the junkyard when I have a load of metal to get rid of. 

I may just do the dust collection idea. I can use the port that is on my old Craftsman fence. It will look similar to yours if I do. My cord will simply push into the run at the top left of my table, kind of like Norm's I think. Along the lines of a camper cord storage. I won't be able to move the volume of air you do with your dust collection system using my shop vac. :sad:

I don't have a drawer bit (yet). I've done drawer joints with the dado blade on my table saw, but it's a lot of work. The plywood I'm using doesn't hold real well with that quarter inch piece on the cross grain. If I were using solid wood, the drawer joint would be great. Mine won't look as much like furniture as yours does, but it will probably work about the same. 

I noticed in your link that you wished you had not made so many bit drawers. I'm thinking it's going to be a while before I fill four of them too, but I'll have more drawers for other junk than I probably should have anyway.

Thanks for the input...I'm still thinking on the dust collection idea. :blink:


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

*Okay, I'm back in the shop.*

I had to sub again today, so I'm in the shop this evening trying to get the plate install going on my table top. Here are the plate and install kit. Note that the plate is 3/8" thick in the center, but it has a 1/4" lip 1/2" wide around the perimeter. You can also see in the picture of the bottom that there are concentric raised rings on the bottom. These will get you in the ball park. I plan to use a PC style bushing in the plate to get the router lined up perfectly centered.

The template kit comes with a three piece guide bushing. There is a large bushing which attaches to the smaller one via an Allen head set screw. The large ring is used to cut the center hole, while the smaller one is used to cut the lip on which the 1/4" lip of the plate will rest. It's a pretty nifty idea.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

*More on plate install*

As you could see in the previous post. I've marked the front of the router plate, both top and bottom. Here I've marked the front of the router plate and the holes so I make sure I drill the right ones. There were six countersunk holes around the plate, but only the three I marked line up with the threaded holes in the router base. I also marked the hole for the above table lift wrench. I already have a long Allen wrench the right size, so I probably won't spring for the $20 dollar one. I may make a nice wooden handle for it though! I'm a little on the tired side tonight, so I'm not going to drill any holes. It seems like every time I do something like that when I'm tired, there get to be too many holes. :bad:

If I don't have to work tomorrow, I'll drill some holes.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

*Getting the template ready.*

Since my table top is on the small side (20" x 27"), I opted to place the router plate dead center in the top. So first I carefully centered the template, then I penciled a line both inside and outside. Then I got out the good old double sided carpet tape (it's kind of pricey, but you'll find multitudes of uses for it). I put the tape inside the pencil lines; then I carefully fitted the template down onto the tape. You have to use care here because that tape really grabs the template. 

Now it's stuck down and ready to use, but as I said in the last post, I'm not making holes in anything tonight!


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

*Oh, oh!*

I installed the plate for the lock in bushings on my plunge base and installed the supplied bushing into the lock in bushing designed for PC bushings. Then I ran the bit up through the bushing as far as it would go...Houston, we have a problem! The bit only protrudes from the bushing about 5/8". :angry:

My table top is 1 5/8" thick! Grrr! Now I have the template taped down and I'm ready to cut for the plate, but I'm going to have to figure out how to cut another inch of MDF. 

I read on one site where the guy used a saber saw to finish the inside cut. Have any of you tried that? Dang, this is the first real snag I've hit with this project. 
:help:


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Russ

This is one of the times having longer router bits come in very handy 
I know you don't want to wait to get the bit so it's time for the jig saw..just drill a hole for the blade to drop in and a go at it..

4 pc 1/4" SH Extra Long Trim & straight Router Bit Set - eBay (item 130474752482 end time Feb-11-11 16:10:37 PST)

1 pc 1/4" SH 3" Blade Extra Long Straight Router Bit - eBay (item 140495049594 end time Jan-27-11 16:08:58 PST)

1 pc 1/2" SH 3" Blade Extra Long Straight Router Bit - eBay (item 140502182958 end time Jan-24-11 19:30:36 PST)

=====




30coupe said:


> I installed the plate for the lock in bushings on my plunge base and installed the supplied bushing into the lock in bushing designed for PC bushings. Then I ran the bit up through the bushing as far as it would go...Houston, we have a problem! The bit only protrudes from the bushing about 5/8". :angry:
> 
> My table top is 1 5/8" thick! Grrr! Now I have the template taped down and I'm ready to cut for the plate, but I'm going to have to figure out how to cut another inch of MDF.
> 
> ...


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Russ
> 
> This is one of the times having longer router bits come in very handy
> I know you don't want to wait to get the bit so it's time for the jig saw..just drill a hole for the blade to drop in and a go at it..
> ...


That's kind of what I planned to try. I'll go as deep as I can with what I have; then finish the cut with my jig saw. As long as I go slowly, it should work just fine. I may just have to invest in one or two of those long bits though. 

Thanks, Russ


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

30coupe said:


> I installed the plate for the lock in bushings on my plunge base and installed the supplied bushing into the lock in bushing designed for PC bushings. Then I ran the bit up through the bushing as far as it would go...Houston, we have a problem! The bit only protrudes from the bushing about 5/8". :angry:
> 
> My table top is 1 5/8" thick! Grrr! Now I have the template taped down and I'm ready to cut for the plate, but I'm going to have to figure out how to cut another inch of MDF.
> 
> ...


Hi Russ, like Bj said, sabre saw time. I would make a couple of passes with the router and get a good substantial groove to make it easy to follow around with the jig saw. While you still have the template in place there's no reason you can't go ahead and do the rabbet for the plate to rest on. That way you don't have to try and reposition the template exactly.
Congratulations, I see you found the good carpet tape. Home Depot sells a Rhino Brand that is just awful. Doesn't hold templates all that well but is the pits to try to remove. Don't need much of the stuff you have, probably about 6 half inch strips would be plenty to hold down that template. 
Glad to see your off to a good start, good luck


----------



## Sparks (Nov 24, 2004)

*How about a bit extension*



30coupe said:


> My table top is 1 5/8" thick! Grrr! Now I have the template taped down and I'm ready to cut for the plate, but I'm going to have to figure out how to cut another inch of MDF.
> 
> I had a similar problem but was able to use a bit extension. The diameter on the one I purchased was considerably larger and 'just' cleared the base plate opening.
> Good luck on a great job!
> ...


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Hi Russ, hope you sort out your plate.

It's looking really good and coming along well. You are defo doing a better job of taking photo's along the way. I just keep on getting drawn in and before you know it I'm at the end of that section with no progress photo's.

Looking forward to your next post.

Cheers, Si


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

*The hole is open!*

Okay, I managed to get the hole opened up for the plate. I had a HSS spiral bit that was 3/8" and long enough. I cut as deep as I could with the 1/2" bit, then finished with the 3/8". I learned along the way that HSS does not particularly like MDF. By the last couple of passes, the bit was getting pretty dull. It was good enough though. I think I have a flush trim bit that is long enough to knock down the ridge left by the difference in diameters, or I may just smooth it up with a rasp...not sure yet. That's about all I'm going to get done for now. I had to sub today, and we're headed to my niece's basketball game in Cedar Falls. She starts for the University of Northern Iowa Panthers and is a senior, so we try to make as many games as we can. *Scratch that idea. It's snowing so the boss says we're staying home. I might get the router mounted tonight after all!*

Sorry, no action shots this time. I'm alone and taking a picture with one hand while running a plunge router would be next to impossible, not to mention breaking just about every safety rule I can think of. :nono:

Thanks for the support, guys. It's much appreciated.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Russ

Looking good , but it looks like you put the kart b/4 the horse, that's to say you remove the 1/2 of support for the router to sit on,to cut a nice flat lip for the plate to sit on..that's to say you should have some stock in the center of your template the same thickness as your template and than remove the center hole out after.. but with care it should be fine but you know routers they like to tip over a little bit..once it's gone it's gone..


Are you going to use a pattern bit to cut the lip for the plate. ?


===========



30coupe said:


> Okay, I managed to get the hole opened up for the plate. I had a HSS spiral bit that was 3/8" and long enough. I cut as deep as I could with the 1/2" bit, then finished with the 3/8". I learned along the way that HSS does not particularly like MDF. By the last couple of passes, the bit was getting pretty dull. It was good enough though. I think I have a flush trim bit that is long enough to knock down the ridge left by the difference in diameters, or I may just smooth it up with a rasp...not sure yet. That's about all I'm going to get done for now. I had to sub today, and we're headed to my niece's basketball game in Cedar Falls. She starts for the University of Northern Iowa Panthers and is a senior, so we try to make as many games as we can. *Scratch that idea. It's snowing so the boss says we're staying home. I might get the router mounted tonight after all!*
> 
> Sorry, no action shots this time. I'm alone and taking a picture with one hand while running a plunge router would be next to impossible, not to mention breaking just about every safety rule I can think of. :nono:
> 
> Thanks for the support, guys. It's much appreciated.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

*Plate is inlet into the table.*

Okay, I got the plate installed into the table. The flush trim bit was just long enough once I chamfered the laminate on the bottom just a bit. Now it's nice and smooth. I used a brad point bit to drill holes for the magnets, one in each corner. The set screws in the corner rest on the magnets, rather than the MDF. They are for fine tuning the plate to get it level. The middle sticks up a bit without the router in place. I'm guessing, no heavier than my router is, it will stick up some with the router as well. I'm not sure what effect this is going to have on my work, but enough people are using this type of plate successfully that I am not overly concerned. 

I haven't drilled the plate yet. It got late by the time I got done with inletting. My shop vac coughed out on me in the middle of the procedure. I fiddled with that for a while, but it seems the switch is kaput. I went out to the garage to get the bigger vacuum only to discover that it needs a filter and I don't have one on hand. I was down to one of those little five gallon can vacs, but I got it done finally. Routing MDF is a mess, even with the vacuum attached to the router. I did some without it when the first one quit...not recommended! Now I have a layer of brown dust all over everything in the shop. It's cleaning day tomorrow before much else happens! After I get another filter for the big vac that is. 

Anyway, I was able to successfully install the plate into the table. It's a messy job, but not especially difficult with the template and guide from MLCS. The plate fits very snugly. I'm going to give the routed out hole a couple coats of oil finish to make sure it doesn't draw moisture and grab onto the plate too tight. 

That's about it for tonight.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Russ
> 
> Looking good , but it looks like you put the kart b/4 the horse, that's to say you remove the 1/2 of support for the router to sit on,to cut a nice flat lip for the plate to sit on..that's to say you should have some stock in the center of your template the same thickness as your template and than remove the center hole out after.. but with care it should be fine but you know routers they like to tip over a little bit..once it's gone it's gone..
> 
> ...


I just followed MLCS's instructions for the install. Well, except for the 3/8" bit part. They have you cut the center out, then take the large ring off the guide and rout the lip for the plate. There isn't anything for the router to set on inside the template anyway, so if you don't hold the router flat to the template, it's going to tip anyway. As it turned out, their way worked just fine. 

In retrospect, I think it would have been a good idea to cut out a small piece of 1/4" MDF or hardboard and tape it in the middle to avoid tipping, then cut the lip portion first. This way works, but I was pretty careful. I can see what you mean and as Forrest Gump would say, "...it happens."


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

30coupe said:


> I just followed MLCS's instructions for the install. Well, except for the 3/8" bit part. They have you cut the center out, then take the large ring off the guide and rout the lip for the plate. There isn't anything for the router to set on inside the template anyway, so if you don't hold the router flat to the template, it's going to tip anyway. As it turned out, their way worked just fine.
> 
> In retrospect, I think it would have been a good idea to cut out a small piece of 1/4" MDF or hardboard and tape it in the middle to avoid tipping, then cut the lip portion first. This way works, but I was pretty careful. I can see what you mean and as Forrest Gump would say, "...it happens."


Hi Russ - glad ya got 'er. I usually just double face tape a small piece of scrap the thickness of the template to the base plate of the router to keep it from tipping. Just need to mind where it is and rotate the router around to keep that side in,,,, or out, as the case may be


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

jschaben said:


> Hi Russ - glad ya got 'er. I usually just double face tape a small piece of scrap the thickness of the template to the base plate of the router to keep it from tipping. Just need to mind where it is and rotate the router around to keep that side in,,,, or out, as the case may be


I need to learn these tricks! I didn't have any major glitches, just one little bobble along one side, but all that did was leave a slight divot along the lip the plate sits on. It doesn't make a bit of difference to the operation of the plate nor does it show when the plate is installed. Once I get the router attached to the plate, I can go back to finishing the cabinet. Then I need to get to work on the projects for my daughter and daughter-in-law.


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

your doing a bang up job there Russ!! Great story line to boot. Nothing quite so satisfying as doing it yourself. 

bill


----------



## chickenslippers (Nov 25, 2008)

Hi Russ, looks like you got that bit sorted.

When I routed out for my Veritas base plate I read the instructions about 3 times first before starting. The last thing you want to do is make a cock up and have to start over again.

Cheers ,Si


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

chickenslippers said:


> Hi Russ, looks like you got that bit sorted.
> 
> When I routed out for my Veritas base plate I read the instructions about 3 times first before starting. The last thing you want to do is make a cock up and have to start over again.
> 
> Cheers ,Si


Yup, I read them 3-4 times first, then went step by step through them as I did the actual cutting. Apparently this way works well enough for MLCS. It did work fine for me as well, but I can see now what Bob was talking about too. Were I to build another top, I would modify the method. I'd also make sure I had a carbide bit for cutting MDF. I had read before that it was hard on cutting tools. Apparently sand can get into the wood/bark mix during the manufacturing process and that wears HSS blades. I don't imagine they spend a lot of time washing the logs before grinding them up, so I can see how that could happen. I guess I've always use carbide blades to cut it before, so I never noticed. It sure did dull my HSS bit though.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

*Drilling the plate.*

I drilled through the plate for the mounting holes and the above table adjustment hole today. The part that took the longest was getting the router plate lined up to the concentric rings on the new plate. Once I got it lined up and taped down. I clamped it with wooden clamps. Then I clamped the wooden clamp into my vise and used a 19.2v drill to make the holes. A drill press would have been better, but I couldn't figure a way to get the plate under my press with the clamps, even c-clamps, because my DP is pretty small. I used the built in bubble level on the drill and went slowly. One of the holes is not perfectly vertical, but there is enough play between the hole and the machine screw that lining it up with the router was not a problem. 

Note that I clamped a piece of scrap wood under the plate when I drilled the holes per the instructions supplied by MLCS. There was no chipping around the holes as a result. DON'T forget this step! 

Now I need to drill the top of the plate to accept the machine screw heads. MLCS recommends a countersink for this, but that would mean using flat head machine screws, which I have on hand. The problem I see with that is that fine tuning the router to get it perfectly centered would be impossible. I would rather use pan head screws so that the router could be shifted slightly to get it perfectly centered. 

What the heck do I use for this? Come on experts, some of you have to have done this. How did you do it?


----------



## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hi Russ,
Nice job so far. I would use the flat head screws suggested. They will keep your router from shifting from vibration over time. It does not matter if you are slightly off as long as your bit does not hit your inserts. All adjustments are referenced off a round router bit anyways.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

jlord said:


> Hi Russ,
> Nice job so far. I would use the flat head screws suggested. They will keep your router from shifting from vibration over time. It does not matter if you are slightly off as long as your bit does not hit your inserts. All adjustments are referenced off a round router bit anyways.


I hadn't thought of that, but it makes sense. There seems to be some play between the red insert in the table and the PC bushings too, so I suppose that could be used to fine tune as well. MLCS sells some springs to keep the bushings from loosening, but I'm thinking I'll just stop at Tractor Supply and get a couple of O-rings that fit over the threads. That should do the same thing for a few cents instead of six bucks for two springs.

I'm not cheap; I'm practical. :laugh:


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Russ

Spring for the spring washers the O-Rings are in the PITA .the Oil rings hold well but real hard to get the brass ring off  and they must be used on the ring nut side.
But I will say I use the Small oil rings on the 1 1/2" guides on the guide side sometimes..but the holes needs to be drilled a little deeper to use them on that side....

=======



30coupe said:


> I hadn't thought of that, but it makes sense. There seems to be some play between the red insert in the table and the PC bushings too, so I suppose that could be used to fine tune as well. MLCS sells some springs to keep the bushings from loosening, but I'm thinking I'll just stop at Tractor Supply and get a couple of O-rings that fit over the threads. That should do the same thing for a few cents instead of six bucks for two springs.
> 
> I'm not cheap; I'm practical. :laugh:


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Russ
> 
> Spring for the spring washers the O-Rings are in the PITA .the Oil rings hold well but real hard to get the brass ring off  and they must be used on the ring nut side.
> But I will say I use the Small oil rings on the 1 1/2" guides on the guide side sometimes..but the holes needs to be drilled a little deeper to use them on that side....
> ...


Bj - I still like the nylon set screw idea you posted some time back..


----------



## Sparks (Nov 24, 2004)

That is a great fit. I see what you mean about the top 'hiding a pencil line', fortunately, you can always put some masking tape down if need be and mark that. Bet you can't wait to take it for (pardon the pun) a spin.

Doug


----------



## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Try that white pipe tape used for water pipes on your bushings to keep them from loosening.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

*Switch problem.*

Now it appears my original idea of using the switch from my old router table is not going to work. It is too long and will interfere with the door on the RT. I ordered a safety switch from Rockler (backordered, naturally). Do any of you know the dimensions of the switch? I want to mount it on the left front of my cabinet. I can still adjust the size of the bottom drawer and the blank area in front of the wire chase, but I don't want to have to wait until some time in February to finish the cabinet. It's a lot easier to put in the drawer glides before assembly. Rockler doesn't list dimensions for their switch. I mainly need to know how large it is from top to bottom. 

It's this switch:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&Max=999

Anyone using one who could do a quick measure?

Thanks!


----------



## Dan Phalen (Dec 14, 2010)

30coupe said:


> Now it appears my original idea of using the switch from my old router table is not going to work. It is too long and will interfere with the door on the RT. I ordered a safety switch from Rockler (backordered, naturally). Do any of you know the dimensions of the switch? I want to mount it on the left front of my cabinet. I can still adjust the size of the bottom drawer and the blank area in front of the wire chase, but I don't want to have to wait until some time in February to finish the cabinet. It's a lot easier to put in the drawer glides before assembly. Rockler doesn't list dimensions for their switch. I mainly need to know how large it is from top to bottom.
> 
> It's this switch:
> 
> ...


That's what's on mine. The switch box itself goes 4 3/8H x 2 1/2W x 3 3/8 deep, without the red plate. However, the mounting tabs top & bottom ad another 1 inch to the height for 5 3/8. 

Mine is mounted on the outside face using screws through the mounting tabs, so I didn't need to make a hole for it.


----------



## 30coupe (Dec 31, 2010)

Dan Phalen said:


> That's what's on mine. The switch box itself goes 4 3/8H x 2 1/2W x 3 3/8 deep, without the red plate. However, the mounting tabs top & bottom ad another 1 inch to the height for 5 3/8.
> 
> Mine is mounted on the outside face using screws through the mounting tabs, so I didn't need to make a hole for it.


Thanks, Dan. I just need to know so I can adjust the height of the bottom narrow drawer. The bit drawers are already done, but I waited on the bottom one until I could figure out the switch situation. This will help. Thanks again.

Russ


----------



## Paddy37 (Apr 25, 2011)

*New Router Table Pics*

Hi Russ, I've just found your pics dated 17th Jan. Looks great so far, any mre pics yet?
I'm looking to build the Norm version and. like most of us, adapt it as it goes along. Makes more work usually but keeps me out of trouble.
Look forward to seeing more:happy:


----------



## Paddy37 (Apr 25, 2011)

*The Missing Pics*

Hi Guys

You can tell I'm new to this. Found all the diferent posts and pics now. Great progress Russ. I'm looking forward to seeing it finished.


----------



## GWEE (Jan 15, 2007)

Love the way it comming out, i have the same TS and looking to put a router on it also.


----------



## bobbollin (May 4, 2009)

Really nice looking job, Russ. I have been scanning through your whole post and I see that you are transitioning from the same ("crappy") Craftsman table that I got away from.  It had it's uses, but it sure was a PITA when it came to bit changing and the fence wasn't worth a damn and the table was too small, but other than that it was great!

Anyhow, great idea about mounting the switch on the same side as your table saw switch. Makes it intuitive when you get into a pickle (Hope you never do!)

I think you are going to smile every time you use this thing.


----------



## radio_davio (Apr 28, 2011)

Newby here, I see you used two vertical supports between the middle shelf and the top surface and one support from the bottom shelf to the middle shelf. Are these supports for stability of the work surface, or for the convenience of having useable spaces that won't get filled with sawdust?

Designing my first and am looking for what I'll do wrong. Thanks.


----------



## joedad (Oct 3, 2010)

Hi Russ, Looks great I just built a similar one myself


----------



## jlcrane5611 (Jun 27, 2009)

Thanks for taking the time to document your project. I have an old router table that has seen better days and needs to be replaced. Very interested in your project. Keep the pictures coming and the commentary for each picture. I just might start my new router table!!!


----------



## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

I am a newbie. Are you planning to make BOTH the TS and Router mobile ?


----------



## Sqrhead (Mar 25, 2010)

I recently completed Norm's Ultimate router table also... wish I had thought of the extra drawer below the router compartment. Nice work!!


----------



## aadaam2001 (Sep 15, 2010)

i realy appreciate ur idea, efforts and dedication


----------



## crazycol (Feb 13, 2007)

russ, its 4 months nowlater,, is it done yet or are you hving a break.
i think we are all waiting to see it in its glory. oh and you are doing a mighty fine job too. well done.


----------



## radio_davio (Apr 28, 2011)

Thanks for this youtube link. Still collecting parts and ideas for my table.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I missed this thread during my hiatus from the forums. The MLCS template and guide bushing are copies of the Rousseau set. The Rousseau installation kits makes centering routers super easy. You insert the centering disk into the PC style opening and the 1/4" shaft into your router. Remove the sub base plate from your router and install the Allen transfer screws in your routers base. The shaft centers your router and all that is required is a light tap to mark the hole locations; this is done on the bottom side of the mounting plate. Drill your holes and flip the plate over; any tear out is removed when you countersink the holes from the top side. Remove the transfer screws and set the router in place with the shaft again. Install the longer mounting screws and tighten them; this has your router centered accurately. This $5 kit is a real time saver and works with mounting plates as well as centering sub base plates on the router.


----------



## Carl Franklin (Sep 16, 2011)

30coupe said:


> Here are some pictures of the bit drawers as they are being assembled.


First ... let me saw that this is an great job and I'm really glad you are posting pictures. 

My first two projects are a table for the router and another table for the drill press. I was thinking of putting the two together, so that I have a longer "rail" for both. Instead of two individual tables about 2 foot across, I could build one that is 3.5 to 4 foot wide. I'd think that would give me plenty of sliding room for both tools. Thoughts?



> I don't think strength will be an issue.


I may have missed it, but is the table saw on casters? I'm just wondering how much weight this added to the whole unit and how easy it is to move around. That would be a big issue, I guess, if you have a shop where you move the tools. I tend to put the tool along the wall but pull them out to the center of the floor when working with them (at least with the table and miter saws). One reason I'm building the new cabinets is to get the tools mounted to something permanent but also give me a chance to move them in and out of their spots.


----------



## allbarknobite (Sep 15, 2011)

chickenslippers said:


> Nice one, looking very good so far.
> 
> How are you planning to fit the draws? On wooden runners , shop bought metal runners or some other way. I'm not sure how to do my draws but My carcass is planned to be built just how yours looks.
> 
> ...


I built a similar box as yours, only not nearly a strongly built. (Yours is more rugged)
I then installed a Rockler router table on top using a piano hinge, and counterweighted the top to keep it from crashing down.

It will be nice to see the final version of your setup.
Mark


----------



## mr500 (Mar 27, 2012)

Great Job..Cant wait till finishing day


----------



## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

*Craftsman saw is good*



carlcath said:


> Interesting that you are building a router table for your table saw and I am wishing my router table was not a part of my table saw.
> 
> I have a 10 inch Craftsman saw with the router cutout and holes for mounting the router as a part of the table.
> 
> ...


Here is my Custom Combo Table that I finished in December it has the following functions
<1> Stockroom supply 24” sander on left side. 
<2> Craftsman 10” Contractors saw in Middle.
<3> Lighted Enclosed Router Table Porta Cable 7539 Router
<4> Custom dust collection with individual homemade blast gates. I also have parts for overhead dust collection for saw blade guard and router fence. Just haven’t installed it yet.
<5>Total storage 17 drawers 90% heavy roller slides scarfed from trash.
<6> Incra TS-32 Fence setup
<7>Charging Station for my cordless tools.
<8< Whole cabinet is on lockable rollers in order to be able to move it around when needed.
This took me 2 years from time of conception until completion I Finally got the time to work on it. The top was made from an old conference room table that was being thrown in the trash 1.5” thick Laminate both sides. Cabinet is ¾” Burch Plywood with Maple face frame using pocket hole joinery. I still have to install some T-Track and Stain the cabinet (Notice the protective coating in cabinet door panes).

Here are the picts
Attached Thumbnails


----------



## kevin887 (Mar 11, 2014)

Very nice, Russ!


----------



## Woodworker wannabe (Mar 9, 2014)

Looks good. Is the 3/4 required on the back or is that what you had laying around?


----------



## kevin887 (Mar 11, 2014)

30coupe said:


> I started building my new router table this week, so I thought I'd post some pictures as I progress through the build. The original plan was for it to be attached to my table saw to save space in my small shop. That's still going to happen, but I modified it a bit from the original idea. Now it will be attached, but by removing a dozen bolts, it will become a free standing table. The top has four bolts through the cast iron extension of the table saw. I drilled holes in the cast, then drilled and tapped the top. Since it won't be carrying any weight, I opted for just tapping the wood and MDF rather than installing metal fasteners. The weight of the table will be carried by two poplar 1"x4" boards that are attached to the saw via four 1/4" x 1" aluminum straps. The table top sits on these boards which will also attach to the carcase with 5/16" bolts through the poplar and into tee nuts inside the cabinet. The cabinet will attach to the top with pocket screws. I had originally planned to attach to the fence guides with tee bolts, but doing so would have made removing the table from the saw nearly impossible, so the holes and slots in the bottom of the table will be for naught.
> 
> This will be sort of Norm's ultimate cabinet, but as you can see, I added a drawer below the router. The back will be open behind the router. I just haven't gotten to that yet. The area where the router will hang is 12" x 12" x 18". I'm sure this is smaller than Norm's, but it is about the same size as the area under my Craftsman aluminum topped router table. I never felt that was too small to get at the router when I needed to. Since I'll be installing a plate, the size should be even less of a factor. I had to squeeze this area because the width is restricted by my table saw dimensions. I wanted to have realistically sized drawers on the sides for bits, etc. The open area for the drawers is 5 1/4" wide, so though they will be narrow, they should be usable. This is just a dry fit at this point. I have a lot to do before any glue hits the wood. The good news is what I have so far seems to fit pretty well. :happy:
> 
> ...


Nice project.


----------



## Roger Leclercq (Jan 28, 2009)

30coupe said:


> Okay, I got the plate installed into the table. The flush trim bit was just long enough once I chamfered the laminate on the bottom just a bit. Now it's nice and smooth. I used a brad point bit to drill holes for the magnets, one in each corner. The set screws in the corner rest on the magnets, rather than the MDF. They are for fine tuning the plate to get it level. The middle sticks up a bit without the router in place. I'm guessing, no heavier than my router is, it will stick up some with the router as well. I'm not sure what effect this is going to have on my work, but enough people are using this type of plate successfully that I am not overly concerned.
> 
> I haven't drilled the plate yet. It got late by the time I got done with inletting. My shop vac coughed out on me in the middle of the procedure. I fiddled with that for a while, but it seems the switch is kaput. I went out to the garage to get the bigger vacuum only to discover that it needs a filter and I don't have one on hand. I was down to one of those little five gallon can vacs, but I got it done finally. Routing MDF is a mess, even with the vacuum attached to the router. I did some without it when the first one quit...not recommended! Now I have a layer of brown dust all over everything in the shop. It's cleaning day tomorrow before much else happens! After I get another filter for the big vac that is.
> 
> ...


If your having any problem leveling the plate I used solid rivets using a brad-point bit to sink them into the mounting lip then your leveling screws don't dig into the particle board. PS: looks good so far.


----------

