# NEWBIE HERE - Need Help w/ First Router Table



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

*GREETINGS ALL !!!*

I am BRAND SPANKIN' NEW to Router Forums and the world of routers . . . having just been referred by a buddy from another Message Board dedicated to DIY Drummaking (as in the musical instrument) 

I know, I know . . . yet another "I'm brand new here with an uber newbie question" thread. (I didn't want to hijack or derail a fellow newbie's thread - as I think our particular questions are just different enough to warrant a separate question thread. 

So, I apologize ahead of time for the various "newbie-isms" I will undoubtedly write as I ask my questions ... and I most sincerely appreciate your patience and guidance.


Okay, so here we go . . . . 

*In a nutshell . . . . *
I am preparing to purchase my first router (having only ever before used a friend's router set up (briefly) to cut bearing edges on a couple of raw drum shells). I'm both very excited and equally intimidated to get started.

Aside from the router selection process _itself_, the one element that has intimidated me (because I haven't really ever _built_ something from scratch before - though I have always wanted to) is either *building or purchasing* a router table itself. 

ACTUALLY, I'm not even looking for/wanting a full blown router table with all of the bells-and-whistles. The only elements I really want and need is . . . . 
*- a smooth flat worktable surface
- a hole in the table underwhich the router will be mounted*

(hope that makes sense) 

Within a different recent discussion thread/topic, Moderator "Mike" mentioned a "Router Workshop Table." I went to the Router Workshop website, but could not find any table(s) for purchase. 


*Ideally, I would like a decently sturdy workbench type setup dedicated solely to/for the router - with/on which I will be performing my drum shell edging. * As I mentioned, I've never really built anything from scratch before - though the steps the person in that discussion took seem relatively basic (as soon as I learn how to drill counter-sink holes, of course).


Anyway . . . I'm very glad to have been referred to this Community and I'm looking forward to absorbing and learning from the thoughts, advice and guidance from you seasoned pros.





Looking forward to hearing from you as to my efforts above.


TOM


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tom

Sounds like you may be a bit low on tools so I will suggest you get the table below
put some bolts and nuts in place and you are set..once you put a router in the table..  for the router I will suggest the one below for that, 216.oo bucks and you are set to run..one base for the table and one for the hand jobs..

T10432 Router Table with Stand
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
===



BillyBatson said:


> *GREETINGS ALL !!!*
> 
> I am BRAND SPANKIN' NEW to Router Forums and the world of routers . . . having just been referred by a buddy from another Message Board dedicated to DIY Drummaking (as in the musical instrument)
> 
> ...


----------



## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Welcome, actually all Ya need is a flat surface and a hole in the table for a router. I have a nice table for sale and a router that can go with it if interested send me a private message, I'll make ya a good deal


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Tom, the Grizzly "Presidents special" router table sale BJ suggested is the best deal going. The Craftsman 2 hp combo kit with the fixed and plunge bases on sale for $99 is the value leader; many forum members have this set and are pleased with it. Lowes is selling the Bosch 1617EVSK 2.25 hp combo kit for $179. This is an industrial quality router and my weapon of choice. All the combo kit you see are styled after the Bosch 1617. I have owned a pair of them for over 10 years trouble free. I suggest you visit Lowes and Sears and compare them in your hands. The controls are slightly different and you should choose which ever feels best to you. You need to understand that the cost of the router is the smallest expense; the real cost of routing is the bits and accessories. MLCS offers some good deals on bits but I always suggest the 10 0piece bit set from Woodcraft. These Wood River brand bits are on sale right now for less than $50 and will let you accomplish many different jobs with your router. Spend the time to read the manual with which ever router you choose.(I do) You will want to practice a bit on some inexpensive wood to get a feel for your router.(They all feel different in your hands) We are here to help you with any questions.

PS: the Router Workshop table is not for sale at this time but you can see it below.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the router forum, Tom

Thank you for joining us.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

*THANK YOU ALL !!!*


Might I ask if there are any thoughts/opinions on the Hitachi M12VC 2-1/4 HP Variable Speed Fixed Base router?


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

When it was introduced it was the best bargin available; that is no longer true. The combo kit with this router was popular and I do not remember any member complaints about it. Like all the other combo kit routers the design was based on/to compete against the Bosch 1617. The 12VC and 12VS are lighter in weight than most other models. One of the new Craftsman routers can be purchased for $49 and is very similar. Hope this helps you.


----------



## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings Tom and welcome to the router forums, we are glad to have you join us.

I have the Craftsman combo,had it one year now and am well pleased with it.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

Well, I'm not going to say that price is no issue - cuz it is . . . but I have been hearing fairly good things about this particular router - both from friends of mine on the DIY Drumbuilding Forum and from most of the online reviews I've been reading - so I thought I would ask _here_ as well.


----------



## rpludwig (Nov 22, 2011)

Tom, welcome! I'm also a drummer, with some bearing edge experience. If that is your only application, I would follow Bob's & Mike's advice on the Grizzly table (I'll likely pick up one of those soon). As to routers, I'll defer to other members with more experience.

I have a simple table (PorterCable trim router mounted under a table saw with an 1/8 masonite top) which I have used for drum shells for several years. It has served me well, truing and re-edging my Slingerland, Ludwig and Kent kits with a variety of bearing edges. You'll also need a sanding table, flat surface large enough for your largest bass drums, for truing edges.

My current needs (non-drum related) brought me to this forum for some more advanced router advice...great forum, and these guys and gals will give you excellent guidance.

Back to drums, if you're a member at drumforum.org, hook up with JR Frondelli for additional router advice (tables/routers/bits, etc.) specific to drum building/bearing edges. He's one of the foremost experts on the trade and a frequent contributor to Modern Drummer magazine.

Last, take your time, practice on scrap shells, and be safe! We need all of our fingers for our drumming!!!

Regards,
Ron


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

BillyBatson said:


> *THANK YOU ALL !!!*
> 
> 
> Might I ask if there are any thoughts/opinions on the Hitachi M12VC 2-1/4 HP Variable Speed Fixed Base router?


Hi Tom - I've had the VC kit for a couple of years now. Very nice little router and quieter than most. I don't think I would like the fixed base in a table mounted version though. The main reason is that the router needs to rotate to change the bit height. This means that cord management under the table could become problematic. It also means the speed control is also in a different place almost every time. Neither of these is a show stopper by any means but, IMO, there are better choices. I believe that Craftsman being referred to can be adjusted from above the table. 
I'm not disparaging the Hitachi by any means, very strong for an 11 amp motor, is very quiet as mentioned and is my preferred plunge router.


----------



## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

Reguardless which router you get. Remember to feed the wood into the rotation of the bit. In the table the bit is spinning counter clock wise you will feed wood on the left side of the bit. It depend's which side of the table you are on. Of course if on the other side of table you would feed on the left side also. Never in between the fence and bit. Now if the table you get has a fixed fence you would feed wood from right to left. After you get it down you may have to do a climb cutting but won't go into that. Good luck on router I have the bosch 1617 and find it to be the best for me in the table


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

rpludwig said:


> Back to drums, if you're a member at drumforum.org, hook up with JR Frondelli for additional router advice (tables/routers/bits, etc.) specific to drum building/bearing edges. He's one of the foremost experts on the trade and a frequent contributor to Modern Drummer magazine.
> 
> Last, take your time, practice on scrap shells, and be safe! We need all of our fingers for our drumming!!!
> 
> ...


Thanks Ron:

I'm actually a longstanding member of ghostnote.net - of which JR Frondelli is also a member and has provided quite a bit of expert advice throughout the years. Nevertheless, I will also check out drumforum.org for additional information. 

I was fortunate enough to have a friend (and accomplished DIY drum builder) give me a "live lesson" on his router set up earlier this year - allowing me to cur the edges for two raw maple snare shells I've had for about four years now. The lesson was great and fave me a "practical" feel for how to use the router in relation to cutting bearing edges. Still, I have yet to have my own (which is going to change within the next two weeks) and there are, of course, a number of details I will be needing to learn . . . router bit height, speed, etc.

I am very excited about moving forward with what has been (at the risk of meing cliche' or melodramatic) a dream of mine for many years now. Sure, I could have easily paid for the raw shell distributor to cut my edges for me ... but at $15 per end, I figure that - with the project I have in mind - the cost of the router and time/patience I will utilize to learn how to do it will more than pay for itself. (Plus, I very much like the idea of being able to choose/customize the exact kind of bearing edge I want).


THANK YOU for the tips . . . I am quite sure you will be seeing more questions from me as I take each step forward.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Hi Tom - I've had the VC kit for a couple of years now. Very nice little router and quieter than most. I don't think I would like the fixed base in a table mounted version though. The main reason is that the router needs to rotate to change the bit height. This means that cord management under the table could become problematic. It also means the speed control is also in a different place almost every time.


Is there a "lift" option or "tabletop wrench height adjustment" option available for the Hitachi?


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

rpludwig said:


> Tom, welcome! I'm also a drummer, with some bearing edge experience. If that is your only application, I would follow Bob's & Mike's advice on the Grizzly table (I'll likely pick up one of those soon).
> 
> Regards,
> Ron


Hey Ron !!

I actually wrote a slightly longer response to your insight . . . but, since I'm new here, my pending reply apparently is awaiting Moderator approval. (Hope I didn't write anything contraband)

In any case, I think I actually have figured out a very viable solution to my router table issue - and, as soon as I have enough posts to allow me to post a photo, I will show you what I mean. (Let's put it this way, it's amazing the potential versatile uses for certain items stored in one's garage). 


TOM


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

BillyBatson said:


> Is there a "lift" option or "tabletop wrench height adjustment" option available for the Hitachi?


Nothing built in. Maybe a router raizer or one of the other lifts. MLCS motorized lift would work as it is a 3.5" motor. To tell the truth, I went with the Freud routers that had built in lifts and didn't even investigate a lift for the Hitachi. The other shortcoming with the Hitachi is there is no factory provided solution for dust control. BJ has a couple of pretty clever shop made solutions I just haven't gotten around to making for it.
One other thing about it. Bit changing is a two wrench activity, no spindle lock. For bit changing in a table, I think dropping the motor completely out of the table would be the most effiecient.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

Awww man . . . this just gets me more and more confused over whether I'll be making the right decision. 
What's a new guy to do?


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

BillyBatson said:


> Awww man . . . this just gets me more and more confused over whether I'll be making the right decision.
> What's a new guy to do?


Hi Tom - Don't feel alone. Wasn't all that long ago I was doin the same thing.... still am to a certain extent:fie:
Well, I've been back through most, I think all of the posts and it seems this cut n' paste pretty much sums up what you want

"I am preparing to purchase my first router (having only ever before used a friend's router set up (briefly) to cut bearing edges on a couple of raw drum shells). I'm both very excited and equally intimidated to get started.

Aside from the router selection process itself, the one element that has intimidated me (because I haven't really ever built something from scratch before - though I have always wanted to) is either building or purchasing a router table itself. 

ACTUALLY, I'm not even looking for/wanting a full blown router table with all of the bells-and-whistles. The only elements I really want and need is . . . . 
- a smooth flat worktable surface
- a hole in the table underwhich the router will be mounted"

While I like the little Hitachi a lot, when someone is asking my opinion and planning on spending their money based, at least in part, on my input, I try to be as objective as possible and I don't believe it is the best choice for a turn key table mount. 

You haven't really said what kind of budget you're looking at, or, if you did I missed it. Anyway, this is a pretty good deal on a little router that will do most everything you want:
Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more
It does have above table settings and bit changes, variable speed and two bases, one for the table and the other for hand use.

This is arguably the best deal going currently on an entry level table:
T10432 Router Table with Stand

About the only thing the table doesn't have is a safety power switch which is also available through grizzly pretty cheaply.
Sorry about confusing you, wasn't on purpose, anyway, hope this helps


----------



## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Triton 2 1/4 hp plunge router mounted to MDF.

Drill a 2" hole for the bit.

Done.

Buy the cheap roundovers from Harbor Freight.

Done and done.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

jschaben said:


> You haven't really said what kind of budget you're looking at, or, if you did I missed it. Anyway, this is a pretty good deal on a little router that will do most everything you want:
> 
> Craftsman 12-amp, 2-hp Fixed/Plunge Base Router with Soft Start Technology
> 
> It does have above table settings and bit changes, variable speed and two bases, one for the table and the other for hand use.


Hi John - Thank you for the advice and tips.

The thing that concerns me about the Craftsman router you mention is one fo the reviews on the product page . . . 



> Not good at all October 02, 2011
> I bought one of these today because of the good reviews. When I bought it, I also bought a 6 piece bit set for it. I was going to use the 1/2 inch cove bit so I tried to take off the base plate. When I tried to loosen the screws holding the base plate on, only one of them would come loose. The screws were so tight that the plastic around the screw holes was already cracked. The screws were of such inferior quality that the phillips screw heads stripped out and now they will probably will have to be drilled out. I am returning this thing as fast as I can. I am unable to use this router in a router table or to use bits that have a larger diameter than the hole in the base plate.
> I would stay away from this machine. If they are skimping on the screws, what else might they be skimping on???



Any thoughts ???


----------



## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Sear offers a 5 year extended warranty, does it not?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Yes and it's good as gold  that's to say you can have a NEW router for the next 10 years..that's to say if you get a mark on it they will replace it..or if you get a hole in the box in came in they will replace it..it's that good..

==



rwl7532 said:


> Sear offers a 5 year extended warranty, does it not?


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

BillyBatson said:


> Hi John - Thank you for the advice and tips.
> 
> The thing that concerns me about the Craftsman router you mention is one fo the reviews on the product page . . .
> 
> ...


Hi Tom  Not sure - Many on this forum have that router, some have gone back for seconds on it so I'm thinking this may be just one that was a Friday afternoon/monday morning thing. Come to think of it, when I first got my Hitachi, the plunge depth rod release knob was so tight I thought I was doing something wrong and technical customer service told me to put a big pair of pliers on it (it's a thumbscrew). Once I got it loose it's been fine. I also don't know how worn out this reviewers screwdriver was:wacko:
Unless it's an issue to get to a Sears store, return is always an option.


----------



## rpludwig (Nov 22, 2011)

Tom,

Others have commented, but I'll reiterate, whatever router and table you decide on, be sure to buy high quality carbide bits. For drum shells, you won't need a wide variety of general woodworking bits, you'll likely just need a 45*, 60*(for a 30* cut) and a couple of roundover bits (if you're doing vintage cuts - think Slingerland and Gretsch). I believe JR shows his edge offerings on his Frondelli Drums site. 

You'll actually spend more time preping (truing) your shells, and final sanding & polishing. Routing is the eze, least time consuming part of the process, especially on new shells...FWIW...

Ron


----------



## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Setup for prepping the edge before routing.
Done right on the MDF router surface which doubles as my workbench.
That's 80 grit adhesive backed floor sander paper from Home Depot.
At the time the photo was taken I had not adhered it to the granite piece I picked up later.
The granite was a free cut-off from a shop that does kitchen counter tops.

Some prefer 120 grit. I like 80 because I am done faster.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Router Raizer

http://www.routertechnologies.com/Hitachim12vc.htm
===


----------



## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

*shazam!*


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Negative comments on product pages must be taken with a grain of salt. These are usually made by people who failed to read and follow the instructions provided. One of the nice things about the forums is you get real world opinions from other members and assistance with problems.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

Mike said:


> Negative comments on product pages must be taken with a grain of salt. These are usually made by people who failed to read and follow the instructions provided. One of the nice things about the forums is you get real world opinions from other members and assistance with problems.


True . . . and I'm still as muddled as ever.

For example, a friend on my DIY Drummaking Forum said the following about the Hitachi M12VC . . .



> It doesn't take much of a twist to raise/lower and there is a marked adjustment band on the fixed base so you know how much you're changing it. Like I said, the trade off versus the other ones is that I get a quieter router with adjustable speed and soft start capability. My router gets used for more than just edges though so those things were important to me.



and of course, there are some glowing endorsements for the Craftsman Router recommended above.


So many good recommendations and endorsements . . . but I need to choose, and soon.


----------



## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Flip a coin.

I don't think you can go wrong.

Triton, Craftsman, Hitachi....

SHAZAM!!


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Tom, my personal take on the Hitachi is very simple: I do not care for routers that require the motor to be twisted for height adjustment. I feel the same way about my old Bosch and my PC 7518. Most of the combo kits have followed the Bosch 1617 design and used a multi position/screw adjustable height adjustment. One benefit of this design is your switch is always in the same place so you can access it quick and easy. These routers can also use through the table height adjustment so no lift is required; can't do that with a twist router. Just some things to think about.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

Mike said:


> Tom, my personal take on the Hitachi is very simple: I do not care for routers that require the motor to be twisted for height adjustment. I feel the same way about my old Bosch and my PC 7518. Most of the combo kits have followed the Bosch 1617 design and used a multi position/screw adjustable height adjustment. One benefit of this design is your switch is always in the same place so you can access it quick and easy. These routers can also use through the table height adjustment so no lift is required; can't do that with a twist router. Just some things to think about.



Hence your recommendation of the Craftsman models? (i.e. topside height adjustability?)

I'm really sorry for all of the follow-up questions . . . I just want to make sure I'm making the right purchase for the project I will be using it for (i.e. cutting drum shell edges). 
The router will be primarily mounted under table. I really don't see myself needing to do any "plunge routing" in my foreseeable drum-edging future.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

Okay, I think I've narrowed it down to this one . . . 

*Craftsman 12-amp, 2-hp Fixed Base Router with Soft Start Technology*
Sears Item# 00902768000 | Model# 02768












My only question is how do I know if this one can be height adjusted via wrench/crank from topside?




:help:


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

See the red knob on the router on other end of that you will see a Allen full thread cap screw that you can use to lift the motor up or down..most have a hole in the base plate that will let you stick the Allen hex key into..
Tee handle hex keys works the best,it will not come with one.

But I will say pay the extra 10.oo bucks and get the one below you will get the plunge base in the deal..that's a lot of hardware for only 10.oo bucks
If you say I can't use it that's fine sell it off and get almost all of your money back..for the plunge base.

See what they go for on the Sears parts outlet on the web.
.http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?SID=CJxPDx

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00927683000P?prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1



===



BillyBatson said:


> Okay, I think I've narrowed it down to this one . . .
> 
> *Craftsman 12-amp, 2-hp Fixed Base Router with Soft Start Technology*
> Sears Item# 00902768000 | Model# 02768
> ...


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> See the red knob on the router on other end of that you will see a Allen full thread cap screw that you can use to lift the motor up or down..most have a hole in the base plate that will let you stick the Allen hex key into..
> ===


That's what I _thought_ ... but wanted to make sure (for any of you who know/knew with a degree of certainty).

THANK YOU !!!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tom

You're Welcome 
I know you will like it I have 6 of them  can't have to many routers LOL

===



BillyBatson said:


> That's what I _thought_ ... but wanted to make sure (for any of you who know/knew with a degree of certainty).
> 
> THANK YOU !!!


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

No question that this combo gives you the most value for the least money. I do not own one myself but have worked with most available routers. I would urge you to visit Lowes and look at the Bosch 1617EVSK before you buy the Craftsman. The Bosch is $80 more and has some major differences. I'm not trying to talk you out of the Craftsman; I'm not trying to talk you into the Bosch. You will feel better about your purchase if you spend the time to compare them for yourself. Only you can decide which router is the best for you.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

Okay, so here is my "plan" for how I am going to create my router table (once I get my router, of course). I am basically going create a makeshift "table" out of my step-daughter's former school desk (which she doesn't want anymore). 

Here are a few pics of the "before" ... with "during" and "after" pics to follow just after the Holidays.

























The desk actually makes for a pretty nice "accessories storage" desk/bench too - so getting a number of features in one. :yes2:


----------



## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

How thick is that top surface?

Looks about an inch.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I have a Porter Cable 893PK combo kit. It came with the tool for table top adjusting.
It's been there for more than 5 years, and hasn't had problem #1.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

rwl7532 said:


> How thick is that top surface?
> Looks about an inch.


In fact, it is _exactly_ an inch . . . . do you think that's going to be an issue?


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

BillyBatson said:


> In fact, it is _exactly_ an inch . . . . do you think that's going to be an issue?


It may be an issue if the top is only 1" of chipboard.

This may not take the weight of a router very long to make it sag.

Most tables are 1 3/8 - 1 1/2" of baltic birch ply or mdf..


----------



## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

BillyBatson said:


> In fact, it is _exactly_ an inch . . . . do you think that's going to be an issue?


Since you likely are going to get the Craftman router, just leave the base attached and remove the motor to eliminate any possibility of sag.

I use only 3/4" MDF and have experienced no sag with my 2 1/4 HP Triton.
Since MDF is cheap, I'll just get another piece if it does.

The only issue I've had with 3/4" is sometimes the bit can't get enough height but I think it will be OK for you. I've had plenty of height for any drum shell edges.

Tom, it's a hobby; just go with it.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

I'm not entirely certain of what material the desk is constructed, but the top of the desk is very strong/sturdy - so I honestly do not foresee an issue with sag. 
In fact, I've stood atop the desk many times with absolutely no give or bend whatsoever.

I think I'm in good shape with this - and that this "already had it" desk is going to make for a great router table (for what I'll be doing) ... 
not to mention will save me both time and money in terms of either building or purchasing a router table.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Tom, while the desk may not be the ideal set up it should work fine for now. Worst case down the road a bit you will switch to a different table.


----------



## tdog (Nov 30, 2011)

Bought this same router because of my budget and can tell bang for buck it is a very good router for a beginner they did a good job on this one.I also have a makita which i havent touched since i purchased this one.installed the fixed mount in my table and used the plunge mount constantly.very comfortable in the hands .
Tdog


----------



## Ed Fleming (Aug 29, 2008)

Watch Craigslist there are many options available. I personally bought 2 different store bought tables which I resold. Then I researched and researched some more and finally built a torsion box type table with a simple home made fence. One forum guy said he was on his third home made table (Norm Abam of Public TV has plans for a real nice setup) and finally you don't need an expensive store bought fence.


----------



## rpludwig (Nov 22, 2011)

received an early xmas gift from my bride yesterday, the Grizzly "President's Special" router table. It was $117 delivered, unbelieveable bang for the buck, nice sturdy fence, thick top, guard, vac attachment, t-tracks, steel stand...highly recommend this table, I doubt I could have built one for the quality and price of this piece, a great value from Grizzly. 

T10432 Router Table with Stand


Ron


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

Okay so I have the following (so far) . . . 

- My *Craftsman 12.0 Amp Fixed Based Router* (model 320-2768)
- My *DeWalt DWD110K Drill*
- My (soon to be) desk-turned-*Router Table*
- A very nice *set of drill and driver bits* (extra Christmas gift from my fiancee')

Because my router will be primarily (if not exclusively) mounted under the table, I am thinking of *installing a power switch to my desk/table* - you know, like a light switch or button or something - so that I can power up my router via the switch without having to go underneath to do it. *Does anyone know of any online resources for information as to how to do this?* I can't imagine it's terribly difficult - but, you know me, I like to see some information in it (preferably video or info w/ images) if at all possible. 


Thanks - and *HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!*


----------



## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

BillyBatson said:


> Okay so I have the following (so far) . . .
> 
> - My *Craftsman 12.0 Amp Fixed Based Router* (model 320-2768)
> - My *DeWalt DWD110K Drill*
> ...


I learned basic wiring in the 7th grade. Electricity taught by Mr. Albright.
They will tell you how to wire it at Home Depot or ACE Hardware.
They can sell you everything you need.

But don't let that stop you. Just plug it in using an extension cord for now.
I repeat: DON'T stop.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

rwl7532 said:


> I learned basic wiring in the 7th grade. Electricity taught by Mr. Albright.
> They will tell you how to wire it at Home Depot or ACE Hardware.
> They can sell you everything you need.


Heh ... Unfortunately, I went to a Catholic/Carmelite based all-boys High School - and there was no wood/mechanic shop. 
(We didn't even have a marching band - as I would have most definitely been on the drumline) ... though we did have a championship football team my senior year 
(which I was proudly on).




rwl7532 said:


> But don't let that stop you. Just plug it in using an extension cord for now.
> I repeat: DON'T stop.


Not to worry, my friend ... not going to let this little element stop me. I'm just thinking it would be a nifty additional element to the whole thing - and I was thinking/hoping that it might be as simple a case (these days) of an extension cord plugging into a switch/switchbox of some sort. If it involves some kind of specilized wiring (for which I have no practical training whatsoever), then I may just nix this whole idea - as it is not imperative to my overall project plans.


----------



## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

An email came back when I ordered something today.
It said "you're on the woodworking roller coaster. Welcome aboard."

I replied: "I hear there is no cure!!"


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

rwl7532 said:


> An email came back when I ordered something today.
> It said "you're on the woodworking roller coaster. Welcome aboard."
> 
> I replied: "I hear there is no cure!!"


I actually kind of hope I stay on the "kiddie coaster" with this, my first venture into the world of woodworking . . . 
because if I get hooked, then there goes another chunk of my paycheck for tools, supplies, projects, etc. :dance3:


In fact, I just picked up one more of those modular shelving units (the exact one you have for your makeshift router table, Ralph). 
We now have four of them - but _this_ one is solely dedicated for ME and my DIY Drummaking ... i.e. shells, tools, etc.


----------



## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Hardly "makeshift". pfft.
Described as "genius" elsewhere.


----------



## BillyBatson (Dec 10, 2011)

rwl7532 said:


> Hardly "makeshift". pfft.
> Described as "genius" elsewhere.


Awww, you _know_ what I meant brutha. :jester:


----------



## rpludwig (Nov 22, 2011)

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9079-Router-Table-Switch/dp/B000LJLFAO

Tom, here u go...highly recommend one of these (or a DIY version)...you don't want to have to reach under the table for a switch when you need a quick shut off for a troublesome drum shell, been there...


----------

