# Harsh question about a router bit



## Greeneyedeagle (Feb 15, 2009)

Will a router bit "shave" aluminum? I know that must hurt and for some it may send schivers up your back. I have an older table saw and the miter tracks are not exact and I was thinking about running a bit down against the side to true it up. I'm not thinking about taking chunks.... just maybe a 64th at the most at a time or less. Sure it may dull , or break, a cheap bit but I thought it would be cheaper than taking it to a machine shop.

Go ahead.... slap me now.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

You can route aluminum without any issues.  Just be sure that it's actually aluminum that you're working with. Otherwise, bye bye bit.


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## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

Greeneyedeagle said:


> Will a router bit "shave" aluminum? I know that must hurt and for some it may send schivers up your back. I have an older table saw and the miter tracks are not exact and I was thinking about running a bit down against the side to true it up. I'm not thinking about taking chunks.... just maybe a 64th at the most at a time or less. Sure it may dull , or break, a cheap bit but I thought it would be cheaper than taking it to a machine shop.
> 
> Go ahead.... slap me now.


No need to slap ya, but I'll tell ya this: if you tried to run a bit down the miter slot on top of my JET table saw I'd want to have my shrapnel vest on. Nobody will talk you out of it if you are determined to do it, but protect yourself, just in case.


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## Greeneyedeagle (Feb 15, 2009)

Thanks for the warning


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I would slow the router down to do it.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

I knew a man who modified a recumbent bicycle using a radial arm saw and a router. He milled aluminum components using those two tools. He managed it by milling only a few thousandths of an inch at a time.

Bullet-proof yourself!

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Palmer

Do it but don't use the router bit that you want the size to be, it will jam in the slot and a real good chance it will break.. 

Use a smaller bit and just shave off one side of the slot...but take a pass or two to get the job done..take real care and don't bottom out the bit in the slot,,say about .010 off the bottom,use a business card as a stop point...keep in mind the side of the slot you want to remove, the bit must be turning the right way, for the right side side or the left side of the slot..also keep in mind the way you want to use the router push it away from you or pull it to you..  you don't want the router bit to jam and pull the router out of your hands...you need to think about this one alot... 



====


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## Barry99 (Feb 10, 2009)

Before you shave the miter track, did you check to see if maybe the blade is off, not the miter?


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greeneyedeagle said:


> Will a router bit "shave" aluminum? I know that must hurt and for some it may send schivers up your back. I have an older table saw and the miter tracks are not exact and I was thinking about running a bit down against the side to true it up. I'm not thinking about taking chunks.... just maybe a 64th at the most at a time or less. Sure it may dull , or break, a cheap bit but I thought it would be cheaper than taking it to a machine shop.
> 
> Go ahead.... slap me now.


You are a braver man than I am Charley Brown. When you say the miter tracks are not exact, exactly what? Not parallel with the blade, won't let you use you miter? I mean if BJ and allthunbs and the rest say you can do it I believe them, I just wonder why?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

xplorx4 said:


> You are a braver man than I am Charley Brown. When you say the miter tracks are not exact, exactly what? Not parallel with the blade, won't let you use you miter? I mean if BJ and allthunbs and the rest say you can do it I believe them, I just wonder why?


Thanks Gerry, I should have asked the same question. I cannot figure out how a track could be worn to the extent that it can't control a mitre guide. Admittedly, aluminum is less than a durable metal but it should take a lot of years to wear. Is it possible that something else might not be accurate?

Have you tried relocating the table? Loosen the bolts, let it reposition itself for a little bit and retighten? Is it possible the the base is sitting slightly askew and has influenced the table top?

All kinds of questions and I haven't the intelligence to ask them all. I'm sorry.

Allthunbs


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## Greeneyedeagle (Feb 15, 2009)

I have checked the track slots and they are wider at the top than they are at the bottom. Plus when they painted the top.... it took up even more space and it left high and low spots but I've tried to sand that out a bit. I don't use the miter anymore because of all the play in them. I've built a sled for it but there again, it sticks because the tracks are off... just a bit. I'm going to make sure they are parall. to each other (and the blade) and the same size.
Thanks for all your concerns and warnings...
I'll probablt use a 1/4 bit and like everyone suggested... take just a hair off at the time.. taking care not to touch the bottom and using a side guide on the router.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Have you tried to run a file down the track(s)? Perhaps there's some residue left over that only needs cleaning? Also, check the miter bar. It may be part of the your problem as well.


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## Birchwood (May 13, 2005)

Ditto Hamllin, that was going to be one of my suggesions-that the bar itself is not right.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Just so you know, the table on the small portable TS isn't quite "aluminum", like most products it's an alloy however to maintain rigidity and form. The cast material is harder with stuff like antimony and to keep it lighter more tin making it more brittle.

I'd listen to the guys who are suggesting filing. There are bits to mill corium and metal but you're not likely to buy them for this single purpose.

You could use a square fine or bastard file, cut a square block to drop down beside it to keep it honest even hot glue it to the block. Make a couple passes and check.


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