# Wax removal on a refinished table



## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Been a while since I've done much woodworking - life got in the way.

OK, first of all, my error then compounded by another. I stripped and refinished a small drop leaf antique table. While the color turned out perfect, I grabbed a can of satin poly (Minwax) for the top coats. Dull appearing. I then waxed it using Minwax wood wax and it looked OK - kinda. Jump ahead 3-4 years and that table now has all the shine of a piece of sandpaper. 

I want to remove that wax, scuff the existing top poly with Scotch-Brite or 3 or 4 ought steel wool and then recoat it with either gloss or semi-gloss poly, again, using Minwax to stay with the same product line. I've looked at various suggested internet methods of removing that wax and really don't have a good feel as they range from restripping which will not happen to using naphtha, lacquer thinner, ammonia, vinegar, automotive body shop wax and grease remover and mineral spirits to name a few. I'm of the opinion that mineral spirits (or turpentine) and lots of clean rags are the way to go. 

Now, the question is, What are your opinions or methods? HELP!!!!!!!


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Dave...if the wax is on top of the poly and you plan on sanding the poly down to the wood you should be able to use a scraper (card or stanley 80 type) to remove wax and poly. Then sand and refinish accordingly. Others may have better ideas...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Wax Wash™ Remover - Mohawk Finishing
Works like a hot damn!


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I know the card scraper will work. The Mohawk Remover I don't know but Dan usually knows what he is talking about. If you don't have a card scraper get one. They are easy to sharpen and a joy to use.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Thanks for the quick responses.

No, I don't have any intent on totally refinishing this table again, just getting a couple layers of wax off, scuffing the surface lightly then applying two or three thin coats of semi or full gloss Minwax poly. Once was enough!! If that stuff Dan suggested works, I have another antique table that has 50 years of Pledge or similar that SWMBO has put on my summer refinish list. There is even a seller nearby that may have it in stock.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Dave...the poly remaining will need to be sanded in order to add coats. That being the case, won't sanding down into the poly get any surface contaminants off...? The wax probably did not work itself into the poly by much... I would use 320/400 and should produce a whitish dust.

Maybe I'm adding to your question...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

paint thinner or turps...
wash the wax off...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Dave; the Mohawk products are developed for the furniture industry. That particular product is aimed at the furniture restoration end of it.
If it's good enough for the guys making a living at it it's good enough for me!


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

IC31 said:


> Thanks for the quick responses.
> 
> No, I don't have any intent on totally refinishing this table again, just getting a couple layers of wax off, scuffing the surface lightly then applying two or three thin coats of semi or full gloss Minwax poly. Once was enough!! If that stuff Dan suggested works, I have another antique table that has 50 years of Pledge or similar that SWMBO has put on my summer refinish list. There is even a seller nearby that may have it in stock.


That table with 50 years of Pledge on it is going to be a whole different kettle of fish. Wax will come off with solvents without too much trouble, but silicone polish can be a nightmare for furniture restorers I hear.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

AndyL said:


> That table with 50 years of Pledge on it is going to be a whole different kettle of fish. Wax will come off with solvents without too much trouble, but silicone polish can be a nightmare for furniture restorers I hear.


Silicone build up is possible to remove with mineral spirits or1 part water to 1 part vinegar... Use a soft, lint free cloth to apply the mineral spirits or vinegar solution. Dry thoroughly w/ a clean cloth and repeat often... for heavy build ups or where the wax and silicone has been applied in alternate layers use a wetted non woven pad.. the finer the better...
for the real nutszoid mess you may have to advance to ammonia...

Make circular motions on the woodwork and apply pressure on stubborn areas of heavy build-up... You should see the waxy residue begin to loosen and stick to the pad. When the wool becomes caked with polish, simply take another clean pad with a small amount of fresh cleaning agent and continue rubbing using the circular motion....

Repeat this process until the wool has very little polish build-up showing while making sure you cover the entire surface area of the wood without missing any spaces to help shift the silicone lubricant. Once this removal process is complete, wipe the wood surfaces with a damp cloth to remove any trace of the cleaning agent. Dry with a clean cloth and leave for a few minutes to ensure the wood dries completely.

Before you start the removal process, it is important to make sure that the furniture is free from dirt. To do this, wipe furniture gently with a TSP dampened lint-free cloth over the entire surface making sure all of it is cleaned. Once the dirt is removed, wipe again with another clean and dry lint-free cloth to remove any residue and to make sure it's clean...

How to Get Rid of Furniture Polish Buildup | Home Guides | SF Gate
How To Remove Wax Buildup From Furniture EASILY

...


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Phew, lots of good information to absorb.

The Mohawk wax remover, I just found via phone, is not readily available locally though some of their other products are. After looking at the MSDS, I'm not sure I can safely use it now as I can't work outside with the current crapola weather we are having (Mohawk was a local company - 15 miles away - until they decided it was too expensive to do business in NY State). Yes, I can wait, but SWMBO ......:no:

I'm all too well aware of silicone and what it can do to paint jobs - fish eyes are nasty. I've painted cars and had fugly surprises even after heavy wet sanding and using wax and grease remover

OK, that leaves me with a solvent (mineral spirits, probably) for the simple wax, along with some 320/400 wet and dry sandpaper to scuff the existing finish on the little drop leaf. The ancient oval table will be 'fun' as the top finish is that nasty combo of wax and Pledge. I looked at the MSDS for Pledge and it contains 5-10% naphtha and other petroleum products along with 5-10% silicones.

Stick, where did you find that 4 page list of abrasive typess? It references part numbers but no manufacturer. 3M? Norton? ??

I'll take some before and after photos and eventually post them.

Thanks all for the almost vertical and straight learning curve line:smile:


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

" ...until they decided it was too expensive to do business in NY State."
-Dave

And the pols just keep piling it on; and the voters just keep putting them back in office.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> " ...until they decided it was too expensive to do business in NY State."
> -Dave
> 
> And the pols just keep piling it on; and the voters just keep putting them back in office.


We have Andrew Cuomo in NY State prepping to run for President in 2020 by bleeding us dry. I don't have a clue as to your B.C. Provincial government but Justin Trudeau ........ Ooopppps, we can't talk politics without a dope slap from 'on high'


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

I pulled the 50 small screws holding the drop leaf table together and found that I did my usual dating and what I used for stain. I refinished the table in Jan 1999 using Minwax, cherry color and tung oil (probably an ersatz version), presumably to 'pop' the wood grain. I've scrubbed one leaf with 0000 steel wool and mineral spirits (that's what I have on hand today), mostly to raise and remove the wax. The steel wool discoloration tells me that it's working. I'll need to use any sandpaper carefully as the top is a veneer, tending to craze some, on top of what looks like a mahogany if the bottom side is any indicator. 

It looks like I can poly (Minwax) directly over the tung oil but snooping around the 'net some say that clear shellac may be needed to seal the tung oil while others say just do it on a clean, totally dried surface. This is the way I will try at least one leaf first then the rest of the table if successful.

Just a note - I remembered why I come to Router Forums though haven't posted much in the past year or two - some forums are populated by folks that feel they are legends (in their own minds), something I've never seen here:yes4:.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

they are color coded...
pick yur own manufacturer...
#M and Norton are the top contenders...

..


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