# New Kreg Clamp Base



## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Kreg recently introduced a base for mounting their Bench Clamps in dog holes on your bench top. The bases are attached with a 1/2" bolt through the top, but the instructions say not to tighten the locking knob so that the base/clamp assembly could swivel. This makes sense except I wasn't too happy with the idea that the bolt was loose, particularly since it appears that there needs to be a fair amount of clearance or the friction against the bottom of the bench top tends to tighten the knob as the assembly swivels. I bought some 3/4" OD x 1/2" ID nylon bushings and fitted them over the bolt and that seems to solve the looseness problem - the holes in my top are 20 mm so there's about 1/32" clearance - but the knob still tends to tighten on the surface when you swivel so you have to reach under and loosen it. The bushings are 3/8" long, and the two are just slightly thinner than the top, I'm going to try adding a thin flat washer (thinking maybe I can punch a couple out of some scrap coil stock) right under the base so that the bushing just sticks out past the surface - hopefully this will let the assembly swivel easily without self-tightening.

So far, I like the bases - nice solid aluminum castings - and they give me a way to hold down to the top using my existing Bench Clamps.


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## chuckgray (Aug 2, 2015)

Good review Tom. Thank you!


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

An elastic stop nut ( nut with a nylon insert) instead of their nut wouldn't be as easy to reach under and tighten/loosen, but it would stay in place on the threads preventing it from tightening or loosening when the pad is rotated. You could also modify their nut by drilling and threading a sideways hole in it and then using a nylon ended set screw, tightened enough to interfere with the 1/2" bolt to keep it and their nut from tightening or loosening. Now, why didn't they think of all this.

Charley


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Thanks Tom, I haven't seen those hold downs made by Kreg. A question about your table. Did you make it or is store bought? I have been wanting a table with dog holes.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

@hawkeye10

Don,

It's a Festool MFT that I bought. I toyed with the idea of picking up the Lee Valley Parf Guide set-up and making my own but it really didn't make sense right now, maybe a little further down the road after I've played with it a little and decided how I want to "improve" it. I use it with the Parf Dogs for cutting panels after I rip them to width on my cutting table - the photo shows checking square with the fence located by RipDog Fence Dogs and the track by Parf Dogs (I was cutting multiple pieces and needed the fence so I could use the flip stop). The X & Y holes check dead on at 90° to each other so it's just a matter of dropping the part on the table, butting it up to the stops and lining the track up with the mark. The MFT is good for what it does but, IMO, a little shaky for hard work as a workbench - but then I have my assembly table and just need to drill some dog holes in it. I'll only be using the dog holes for clamping, so laying the holes out with a straightedge and square will be good enough.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

CharleyL said:


> An elastic stop nut ( nut with a nylon insert) instead of their nut wouldn't be as easy to reach under and tighten/loosen, but it would stay in place on the threads preventing it from tightening or loosening when the pad is rotated. You could also modify their nut by drilling and threading a sideways hole in it and then using a nylon ended set screw, tightened enough to interfere with the 1/2" bolt to keep it and their nut from tightening or loosening. Now, why didn't they think of all this.
> 
> Charley


The clamp isn't going to be fixed in the top, and will be removed when I'm cutting something, so needs to be relatively easy to move - crawling under the top to loosen or tighten a setscrew isn't going to do it for me. I think adding a couple of thin aluminum washers under the clamp, before the nylon bushings, seems like the cleanest way to go. If I wind up with 1/64" or so projection of the end of the bushing below the underside of the top, the knob won't tighten on the work top as the clamp spins but the whole assembly won't be sloppy which is what I'm looking for. The ID of the bushings are a friction fit on the body of the bolt so I won't have to worry about them falling off - although I maybe need to drill a 3/4" test hole and check the fit of the OD of the bushings, then decide what size dog holes I wind up putting in the other top.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

No Tom, you don't understand. The nylon tipped set screw only needs to be tight enough to keep the Kreg knob from turning on the threads. Just a little added friction so the knob doesn't tighten or loosen on it's own. The Kreg knob could be used exactly as originally intended, but would not tighten or loosen on it's own when the parts above the table were moved. Once the set screw creates enough friction to keep the knob from tightening or loosening, no further adjustment of the set screw should be necessary, but could again be adjusted if the Kreg knob ever begins to slip on it's threads again.It would not need to be adjusted so tight that you couldn't unscrew the Kreg knob, just enough to keep it from turning on it's own.

Charley


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

CharleyL said:


> No Tom, you don't understand. The nylon tipped set screw only needs to be tight enough to keep the Kreg knob from turning on the threads. Just a little added friction so the knob doesn't tighten or loosen on it's own. The Kreg knob could be used exactly as originally intended, but would not tighten or loosen on it's own when the parts above the table were moved. Once the set screw creates enough friction to keep the knob from tightening or loosening, no further adjustment of the set screw should be necessary, but could again be adjusted if the Kreg knob ever begins to slip on it's threads again.It would not need to be adjusted so tight that you couldn't unscrew the Kreg knob, just enough to keep it from turning on it's own.
> 
> Charley


Gotcha. So maybe a dab of VibraTite on the bolt threads would do the same thing?


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I have considered one of these. I have one of the new style clamps (3 inch) so a longer one should work well. I like the idea of the nylon insert. I need to look for one.

I have a few holes that one of these should fit in nicely. :grin:


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Well, with one thing and another (including a call from my wife who had lost her keys at Walmart - long story), all I got done was working on the Kreg clamps - although my buddy in from NC stopped by to catch up on the news and show me his new Corvette, nice car. I went with the idea of making some aluminum shims to put under the nylon bushings, turned out that 5 of them was enough to give me almost 1/64" stick-out. That solved the problem, the plastic knob spins down on the end of the bushing without clamping on the top and still lets the clamp spin - and no rocking in the hole. I like the set-up, now I have to drill some dog holes in the other top.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

tomp913 said:


> Well, with one thing and another (including a call from my wife who had lost her keys at Walmart - long story), all I got done was working on the Kreg clamps - although my buddy in from NC stopped by to catch up on the news and show me his new Corvette, nice car. I went with the idea of making some aluminum shims to put under the nylon bushings, turned out that 5 of them was enough to give me almost 1/64" stick-out. That solved the problem, the plastic knob spins down on the end of the bushing without clamping on the top and still lets the clamp spin - and no rocking in the hole. I like the set-up, now I have to drill some dog holes in the other top.


Tom,

When this post initially came out I liked the idea so well I ordered the clamp for myself. It's still sitting on the workbench waiting to be opened and I have plans to do that tomorrow. I have yet to decide what I'm going to mount it on for my current project but I do think it is going to be very helpful. I can't do any machining so if I have a problem like the one you had I'll have to come up with something. Thanks for the idea.

Bryan


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

@bryansong

Bryan,

After going through the exercise of ordering the nylon spacers and then punching out the aluminum shims, it occurred to me that there was "A Better Way" - as the little videos by Fine Homebuilding say. Take a section of 3/4" dowel, cut it to the length needed - say top thickness + 1/64" or so - and drill a 1/2" hole down the center. I've got offcuts of 3/4" dowel lying around the shop, would have been much quicker and easier. Oh well, maybe the light bulb will go off before the fact next time.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

The good thing about this type of clamp base is your work surface only needs to be something with a 3/4 or 20mm hole in it. That could be that old Workmate sitting in the corner, or a simple piece of plywood on sawhorses, or... let your imagination run wild.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> The good thing about this type of clamp base is your work surface only needs to be something with a 3/4 or 20mm hole in it. That could be that old Workmate sitting in the corner, or a simple piece of plywood on sawhorses, or... let your imagination run wild.


The plus for the Kreg clamps is that they're a little more versatile as far as reach and so forth, but this modification to the Quick-Grip (or similar) clamp is cheap and easy to do - just need a sturdy vise and a torch - and they work just as well as the Festool version. https://bethepro.com/forums/topic/alternative-to-festool-mft-clamps/ For the clamps that don't have the removable "fixed" jaw, I found that cutting the jaw off with a multi-tool was the quick way to go. The original post didn't give any process description, I found that it was easier to make the 90° bend on the flat first and then twist to move the second 90° - get the bend nice and hot, clamped in the vise, and then use a 24" crescent wrench snugged down on the long leg to get the twist into the bend. I didn't take any photos when I did the first two - one hand for the torch and the other to make the bend, came up one hand short for the camera. Have another pair to modify so maybe I can get my wife to take a couple of in-process photos for me (or talk her into a movie camera for Christmas > )


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

MT Stringer said:


> The good thing about this type of clamp base is your work surface only needs to be something with a 3/4 or 20mm hole in it. That could be that old Workmate sitting in the corner, or a simple piece of plywood on sawhorses, or... let your imagination run wild.


That's the way I going to go Mike. I'm not there yet. I'm still cutting cabinet box pieces.

Bryan


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Here is a simple portable bench top work bench. I got the original idea from a guy on another forum, and I'll be danged if I can remember his name. Canadian, I think, and a very skilled guy. Brian something or another was his name.

This Portable work bench can be clamped to your bench or saw horses or whatever is handy. Originally, it had slots cut all around the edge for drill press type clamps that can be clamped in the slot, similar to what Kreg has come up with.

I drilled holes in mine, and later added a small Kreg plate in the middle. I had to reinforce the bottom of it (see pictures). It worked well for me on numerous occasions. I finally parted ways with it because I now have a CNC cut work surface that is in two pieces and makes for a great portable work area.

Take a look at these pics and maybe they will generate some inspiration.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

MT Stringer said:


> Here is a simple portable bench top work bench. I got the original idea from a guy on another forum, and I'll be danged if I can remember his name. Canadian, I think, and a very skilled guy. Brian something or another was his name.
> 
> This Portable work bench can be clamped to your bench or saw horses or whatever is handy. Originally, it had slots cut all around the edge for drill press type clamps that can be clamped in the slot, similar to what Kreg has come up with.
> 
> ...




Mike,

That table would work out great for me, can you tell me what size are Dog holes? I don't have a bench like that and it would be nice to get something like that set up.

Bryan


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Here's the next iteration in Mike's portable work top - the hole pattern allows it to be used with dogs and a track for cutting parts.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

tomp913 said:


> Here's the next iteration in Mike's portable work top - the hole pattern allows it to be used with dogs and a track for cutting parts.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-SzRbVPob0


Hey Tom,

I did get the Kreg unit that comes with the metal plate and I flush mounted to some plywood. The plywood has a frame built under it and that is clamped to two WorkMates. I just built a tall cabinet using that table but haven't used the Kreg clamp yet but I am about to Saturday when I'll build my face frame.

Back to my temporary table, it's not too fancy but it's been a great work surface. It'll do for now.

Bryan


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks for sharing, Tom. That's pretty spanky, right there. I am subscribed to his channel, but haven't seen this video. He has some good ideas.

The only drawback for someone making his table is money. It seems everything is costly. I have some Makita track grip tape similar to what he used...about $17 I think. But, that would make for a really nice work table, and versatile too.

UGH! Those square corners were driving me crazy! I know it is just me, but I always like to round the corners on my projects. I just like the look, and I don't jab a rib when working with the table. :grin:

BTW, the clamp modifications we made to the Harbor Freight clamps are working very well. Much more economical that those Fe$tool brand clamps. :smile:

I could very easily adapt his mods to the portable work tables I already have. HMMM...sounds like a nice winter project! :grin:


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

@MT Stringer

I'm really liking the MFT top the more that I use it. In an effort to clean up the shop (and because the 40+ year old motor was starting to make some funny noises), I had gotten rid of my radial arm saw (only ever used for cross-cuts so never had a problem with it going out of square) and regretted it almost as soon as I did. The top and track saw has more than replaced it; the 24"+ cross cut capacity is quite a bit more than the RAS. And, with the TSO square on the track and some 2x4 sleepers, I can get about as much as my arm can reach, saving me from setting up the cutting grid just to make a couple of cuts.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

After watching that video I realized I can make my own table top. Dog holes, dado for T Track and shallow dadoes for the grip tape all cut using the same 1/4 inch end mill on my CNC. I will have to keep that in mind. I like my tables as is so I guess I could remount them on the CNC and let it cut the dadoes. :surprise::grin:

Even the holes for the "feet" could be drilled. Some day when I get bored...mdf is pretty cheap. However, my cutting area is about 22 x 35 so I could rotate the board and just cut everything on one end and leave the rest solid...or design the files so I can swap it end for end...or use the tiling feature to cut the entire length. Lots of possibilities. I think I have some T Track that is about 24 inches long so I wouldn't even have to buy any. :grin:


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Mr. Stanton seems to be pushing the design as a "portable" top, either taking it to a job site or for the homeowner to set up on the kitchen table when he needs somewhere to work. He does note that the top is reversible - the feet can be installed in either face - so that the plain face can be used for sawing and "heavy" work. For use as a fixed top - e.g. modifying an existing top by adding the features or making a new top to attach to a bench - I can see the anti-slip inserts becoming easily damaged. I've had one of those "router mats" - a rubberized mat with either a waffle-like surface or an open mesh - for years and it works very well as a non-sip surface, plus it has the advantage of being easily rolled up and stored away from damage when not needed. I do like the concept of continuing the dog holes onto the apron, and the various functions available with them there.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I like your idea of using a router mat. Probably makes more sense since it can be removed and stored away. Maybe after Christmas I will look for one.

I like Mr Stanton's videos. Like someone posted, he should be an instructor if he isn't already.


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## CMW^2 (Mar 22, 2018)

*Another Idea....*



tomp913 said:


> Kreg recently introduced a base for mounting their Bench Clamps in dog holes on your bench top. The bases are attached with a 1/2" bolt through the top, but the instructions say not to tighten the locking knob so that the base/clamp assembly could swivel. This makes sense except I wasn't too happy with the idea that the bolt was loose, particularly since it appears that there needs to be a fair amount of clearance or the friction against the bottom of the bench top tends to tighten the knob as the assembly swivels. I bought some 3/4" OD x 1/2" ID nylon bushings and fitted them over the bolt and that seems to solve the looseness problem - the holes in my top are 20 mm so there's about 1/32" clearance - but the knob still tends to tighten on the surface when you swivel so you have to reach under and loosen it. The bushings are 3/8" long, and the two are just slightly thinner than the top, I'm going to try adding a thin flat washer (thinking maybe I can punch a couple out of some scrap coil stock) right under the base so that the bushing just sticks out past the surface - hopefully this will let the assembly swivel easily without self-tightening.
> 
> So far, I like the bases - nice solid aluminum castings - and they give me a way to hold down to the top using my existing Bench Clamps.


Great writeup and gave me some ideas. 
Here is another alternative. See what you guys think. 
I took the Bench Dog Cookies T-track Connectors and added it to my Kreg Jig. 
I am trying to think of better way to connect it but it still works great. Might add a washer at the end.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

CMW^2 said:


> Great writeup and gave me some ideas.
> Here is another alternative. See what you guys think.
> I took the Bench Dog Cookies T-track Connectors and added it to my Kreg Jig.
> I am trying to think of better way to connect it but it still works great. Might add a washer at the end.


That's an interesting idea. I do have a question though - are the connectors clamped to the top somehow or do they just drop through the dog holes and "cock" when the clamp is locked down? May not be a good idea on an MFT style top where the holes are used as locators and it would be a problem if they became oversize/eggy form the clamp use. I bought the Kreg bases on a special deal when they first came out, and really like the concept. I have some similar clamps - another brand but functionally identical - but am thinking that I could make a version of my own for way less money. 

Sticking with the 3/4" dowel concept (because I always seem to have some pieces lying around):

- take a piece of scrap 1/2" BB and counterbore a 3/4" hole partly through. The footprint of the bare clamp is a little on the small side (in my opinion) and this spreads the load over a larger area.
- cut a piece of 3/4" dowel to the appropriate length, glue it into the plywood and drill the 5/16" hole (I believe that the tapped hole in the foot of the clamp is 5/16"NC) through both parts. 
- take a 5/16" knob with male stud and install through the mount and into the clamp from under the top. I don't know if the male knobs come with the stud length needed, but I always buy female knobs and a length of all-thread and make my own - cuts down on inventory and I can make the stud length what I need - red Loctite fixes the stud in the knob, and I've never had a problem with one coming loose.

With this idea, or something similar, you can make your own bases using scrap pieces - cost would probably be a couple dollars for the knob.

I used the Kreg clamps the other day and found that the clamps swiveling was a distraction as I was having to turn them slightly each time to get them lined up where I needed so wound up making a couple of shorter dowel sleeves so that the knob fixed the clamp in place - I guess having both versions lets me use whichever is appropriate.


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