# mdf router table top



## Nickthefish (Feb 16, 2013)

hi I thinking of making my own router table would be ok to use 32 mm MDF for the top


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## phillip.c (Aug 9, 2012)

You can use MDF as long as you fasten it securely to a rigid frame to prevent sagging and seal it immediately to prevent swelling. Don't use water based glues with MDF (I suppose this goes for water based sealants also?). 

Alternatively, you may consider using cabinet grade plywood. 

I decided not to use an insert on my table (the plate that the router usually attaches to, which sits within the table). Instead, the router is secured to the underside of my wood table. With no insert, there is no insert leveling. Without an insert, however, you cannot lift the router out of the table as easily.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The mdf will make a fine top but I too would attach it to a frame. It won't span much distance without sagging eventually. You should plan on an insert. Removing 32mm off the total reach of your router is quite a bit.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

32mm MDF should be fine as long as it is well supported and the top AND bottom have some kind of moisture barrier. (I recommend Laminex/Formica type products).

I would also add a hardwood facing to the edges.

If you use an insert plate you will only lose the thickness of the plate (9/10mm).


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Nick, there are two schools of thought on table tops: Mass vs rigid material. Both ways work. Your choice will depend on if you want/need to be moving your table a lot.

Mass tends to reduce vibration which is a good thing. Many members go with about 1-1/2" (38 mm) tops. I built my first table this way using 3/4" (19 mm) plywood with two 1/4" layers of high density tempered hardboard (Masonite) on top and then Formica top and bottom to prevent moisture migration and provide a zero maintenance surface that the wood slides easily on. The edges were wrapped with hardwood for additional support/moisture resistance/good looks. I liked this design which is from Shopnotes #1. The table size is about the same as the commercial tables from Shopsmith, Grizzly and MLCS.

Next I tried a Router Workshop table which is built from Baltic birch plywood. The top is 3/4" Baltic birch with Formica top and bottom. The supports and base are built from 1/2" Baltic birch plywood. The result is a lightweight table which is very portable and at the same time very rigid. With the on board storage for bits and guide bushings this quickly became my favorite. The table is smaller but has always provided plenty of support for anything I have worked on. The economy table in our Table Mounted Routing section is based on the Router Workshop design.

As long as you provide support within 10" on three sides of the router your top should never sag with either of these methods.


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## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

Agree with James, you must sandwich the MDF with Formica or similar. Use contact cement and then have some sort of frame beneath to support it. Even angle iron will work.


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

I use 2 sheets of 3/4" shellacked MDF & 3M Contact cement spray between them with Formica on top. Be sure to apply new shellac when routing tracks or plates. My oldest is now 6 years old and no sign of sag and it is only has 2 edge support. Masonite can be easily used for tops and bottoms as Mike suggested. I do prefer aluminum plates over phenolic as I purchased a plastic plate with a ever so slight center rise that drove me nuts till I tossed it.

Good luck - Baker


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

I use 3/4" MDF slathered with Watco and then waxed.
It sits as a shelf in a metal shelving unit - the kind sold as storage.
So it is 24" deep x 36" wide.
I have the Triton 2 1/4 HP router bolted to it.
I have had no trouble with sagging so far - now entering its third season.
MDF is cheap.

When I need to change it out, I will make some cross members for the underside.

MLCS sells an extension for 1/2" shaft collet routers. I bought mine through Amazon.


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## amilla (Nov 21, 2011)

Agreed. MDF is kind of vulnerable to humidity. If you do not seal it properly, you might be wasting your time and money.


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## Nickthefish (Feb 16, 2013)

thanks for advice, my build is well under way ill post some photos soon ,what is the best wax to ues?,this the first thing iv built in a long time im well impressed with it iv got the bug again thinking about building a new workshop to give me more space


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## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

nick the fish said:


> what is the best wax to ues?


Just use a sanding sealer. In fact you get special ones for MDF.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Wax.....?*



nick the fish said:


> thanks for advice, my build is well under way ill post some photos soon ,what is the best wax to ues?,this the first thing iv built in a long time im well impressed with it iv got the bug again thinking about building a new workshop to give me more space


Hi Nick, some members have just used Scandinavian Oil as a sealer for the bare MDF top.

Not sure hoe the humidity changes in your area?


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