# Table saw wings. Stamped or cast iron?



## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

What are the disadvantages or advantages to stamped TS wings. I like that they are cheaper. What do you guys think?

Don


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

I've got them but would have preferred the cast. The stamped ones I have are not flat across the entire surface....there is a slight lip around the edges. The cast are completely flat.


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## herrwood (Apr 19, 2014)

I've had both and both are usable but the cast is a more ridge so less likely to be out of shape and less vibration.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I have stamped steel extensions on my Craftsman saw. I prefer them because I have had a couple of pinches using the webbed cast iron extensions.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Solid cast on my Delta.
I always have stuff lying around on the backside of the fence, ie the right side extension. Perforations in the top would not be welcome.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Solid, non webbed, cast is my preference. Each wing must weigh near 40 lbs, I had a heck of a time installing by myself, but I finally got them. They came with my Craftsman hybrid saw that I bought six years ago, but I do not see it listed any longer. I similar, if not the same saw is available with the stamped wings I think.

Anyway, that's my two cents worth,

Jerry


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

solid cast here too... had stamped steel... 
premium flat work/set up surface as a benifit...


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

In order of preference, Solid Cast Iron, Stamped steel, Webbed Cast Iron. The webbed ones are finger grabbers. 

Mass is always your friend! My very first table saw had aluminum wings, they worked, but the saw was way too light. Table saw 2 had stamped steel wings, it worked just fine. Table saw 3 (present) has 2 massive cast iron wings and a melamine covered extension. Going from a 60 lb saw to a 400 lb saw is night an day!


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Cast iron for me too. Mass absorbs vibraton. Laguna ages their cast iron before flattening it. I just made sure the top edges of the wings lined up precisely with the center section. Assembled it myself with a roller support and straight edge.


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

Cast iron. Lots of vibration absorbing cast iron!


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## 163481 (Jul 8, 2015)

Mine has webbed cast extensions. I just never could wrap my head around stamped steel...my fear is they wouldn't be sturdy enough or flat enough.

Had I not had cast extensions I probably couldn't have done my router table. I used their inherent size and flatness...along with several clamps and three hardwood cauls...to laminate sheet plywood to a sink cutout for the router table top.


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Don, Some things to consider when thinking about wings. The portion of the table saw around the blade is where the table saw has to be rock steady. Wings on a table saw are like someone holding up the end of a long board or panel so it doesn't create an arc, and board or panel lays flat in the area surrounding the blade as you saw the material. If you think of it that way almost any flat surface will support a panel provided it doesn't flex. How the wings are supported is the key. The wings must be reasonably parallel with the working surface of the table saw. Cast is favored (or coveted) and would provide a very flat surface and would probably resonate less vibration, but at a cost. Steel painted stampings are usually pretty flat and with a good support foundation (Usually substantial steel) will provide the support necessary and with care will last as long as the table saw. Then there is wood products (melamine etc). It still comes down to support. Most table saw efficianatos would like to use out feed tables on there table saws but I have yet to see one made of cast iron...Why? I think it has proven over the years that because it lies outside the critical work area of a table saw and the cost is prohibitive. You must decide $ for $ what is your best choice. They all work!


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## Garyk (Dec 29, 2011)

Cast is much better but if you are looking for economy a piece of laminated MDF works too.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Bricknhank said:


> Cast iron. Lots of vibration absorbing cast iron!


that's a good looking saw!


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

kp91 said:


> that's a good looking saw!


Thank you. 1976 vintage. I smile every time I use it. I added a Shark Guard to it with a dust port and it really helps.


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

My first table saw was one of the cheapo Craftsman portable versions. An aluminum webbing type top. Not good, not bad, kinda shakey, easy to take to the jobsite. My second was a very very old craftsman. Way better than what I had but not portable. It was cast iron and extremely heavy. My latest is a Grizzly G0691 with what I think is cast iron. I love the saw accept that the top wants to produce rust all the time. Hard work to keep the rust off. In my opinion table saws should be coated with a permanent coating of some type that won't rust and that doesn't need constant care. Seems like I'm always steel wooling, sanding and waxing the top.


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

JudgeMike said:


> My latest is a Grizzly G0691 with what I think is cast iron. I love the saw accept that the top wants to produce rust all the time. Hard work to keep the rust off. In my opinion table saws should be coated with a permanent coating of some type that won't rust and that doesn't need constant care. Seems like I'm always steel wooling, sanding and waxing the top.


Judge, all of my WW machines are old iron Delta/Rockwell or Powermatic with the exception of a Powermatic Jointer model PJ882 which is an Asian machine. I don't have any problems with rust on any of the U.S. cast iron but I am fighting it constantly on the jointer. I like the jointer and it's a good machine but constantly fighting the rust. I've used Minwax, Bora, Boeshield and various other protectents. I am convinced that the Asian cast iron is inferior to the old US cast. It's a shame really.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Bricknhank said:


> Judge, all of my WW machines are old iron Delta/Rockwell or Powermatic with the exception of a Powermatic Jointer model PJ882 which is an Asian machine. I don't have any problems with rust on any of the U.S. cast iron but I am fighting it constantly on the jointer. I like the jointer and it's a good machine but constantly fighting the rust. I've used Minwax, Bora, Boeshield and various other protectents. I am convinced that the Asian cast iron is inferior to the old US cast. It's a shame really.


I'm with you . It's no secret that General is superior to General International . To bad it's come to this . I heard Trump is going to fix this though


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

Bricknhank said:


> Judge, all of my WW machines are old iron Delta/Rockwell or Powermatic with the exception of a Powermatic Jointer model PJ882 which is an Asian machine. I don't have any problems with rust on any of the U.S. cast iron but I am fighting it constantly on the jointer. I like the jointer and it's a good machine but constantly fighting the rust. I've used Minwax, Bora, Boeshield and various other protectents. I am convinced that the Asian cast iron is inferior to the old US cast. It's a shame really.


Well I'm happy it's not just me. Thanks


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

kp91 said:


> In order of preference, Solid Cast Iron, Stamped steel, Webbed Cast Iron. The webbed ones are finger grabbers.
> 
> Mass is always your friend! My very first table saw had aluminum wings, they worked, but the saw was way too light. Table saw 2 had stamped steel wings, it worked just fine. Table saw 3 (present) has 2 massive cast iron wings and a melamine covered extension. Going from a 60 lb saw to a 400 lb saw is night an day!


You forgot Granite, Doug.
Herb


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Herb Stoops said:


> You forgot Granite, Doug.
> Herb


Herb,

I was excited at some of the granite top saws at first, they even remade mine with a granite top. Unfortunately, I saw too many of them with broken corners at the store.

I also have become a REAL big fan of the magnetic featherboards, and you can't use those on granite.

They do look pretty, though!


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

I think there was a video out about 2-3 years ago about someone doing a faux granite table saw top out of concrete... My hat off to him, as getting something flat would have been some sanding and polishing. For me, it would be easier-- I have some scrap slabs of granite here about 1-1/4" thick that would make great extensions... epoxying to a metal frame for it's mount... But if you had to go out to buy something, you are talking over $50+ sq./ft. for granite.

But realistically, for most people-- cast iron extensions are my pick... What I've done is to make your fence rail guide braces, so that the ends of your extensions are supported by them. (More stable and less chance of warping that way) Then you have more options on what you can use for extensions. <-- Then those could even be wood. My preference for cast Iron (or granite) is the durability, flatness and "weight." Why the weight? Lets say a cast extension weights around 40-50 pounds each. So say you add 2 wings- you just added about 90-100 pounds to the weight of your saw. More weight, more stable. Build a stand and add weight to the stand... Did you know that some European panel saws added concrete inside the frame to help stabilize them?

EDIT: Found where I saw that
http://www.ibuildit.ca/table-saw-1.html


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