# soft start/variable speed table setup



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

greetings all... here is my situation: I've built a custom router table, invested in top of the line accessories blah, blah, blah.. but as of yet, still have not purchased a router. I would idealy want to have remote control (outside of the router box portion of the cabinet) of router motor speed. Right now, the only production router i can find that allows for this is the Milwaukee 5625 sold as a package with remote varialble speed control. This package has reviewed very well and certainly isn't a bad consideration, however, I'd like to know of any other options. From what I've read, the big PC's and Milwaukee's with soft start and VS will not allow for a 'remote' motor speed controller. I've read through the forum and could not find anything that answered my questions, so i figure go straight to the experts..thanks in advance for any assistance...


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Welcome to Router Forums, I am not sure of any others that come with a remote speed, 
and you taught me that one had it. One of the biggest questions are finding a good plate that will fit a particular router, or which router is the best for table, or hand held routing.
If anyone has an answer for you, they will post. Have If you will give us a little more about yourself, We will be able to communicate and hold common interest with you. Who knows, your friend may be a part of Router Forums


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Bill welcome to the forum, 

perhaps you can tell us why the remote starter? I would like to learn.

Soon you will get an answer from the other members


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

ok guys, here is the short story.. quite honestly, the table I've built is way beyond what I need. or probably will ever need for that matter. But dang, its cool. 27 x 49 x 1 3/8" tabletop with an Incra LS fence, wonderfence, Incra rails and mounting base (yes, attached to the router table for quick and easy relocation/removal of the fence) The cabinet itself is 41 x 27. The Cabinet mounts as an addition/extension to my cabinet saw. Will purchase a woodpecker PR2 lift as soon as I decide on the router. I already have a digital height readout mounted on the control side as well as a deadman switch. I've ordered a Jessem Mit-r-slide which I will adapt to my fence assemblies via machined aluminum stock if necessary. not to mention just way to many dooo dads and thingamabobs.. *L*.. You dont' even want the long version, trust me.. anyways, back to the question at hand.. I guess the answer is just cuz, easy access and control of router speed etc. 

OH, did i mention, it just looks cool?


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

It sure sounds cool. A picture would be great!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Bill

It sounds like you are going over the deep end just a little bit,,you can pull the control device off the router and mount it in a remote box if you want to..

Or just buy a older router that doesn't come with a VS device built in and just pickup a remote device...(20 amp.type) it will not have the soft start but almost,but you can turn it off or on from the remote box control and control the speed from the remote box..the one that comes to mind is the 3 1/4hp PC.

=========




TwoSkies57 said:


> ok guys, here is the short story.. quite honestly, the table I've built is way beyond what I need. or probably will ever need for that matter. But dang, its cool. 27 x 49 x 1 3/8" tabletop with an Incra LS fence, wonderfence, Incra rails and mounting base (yes, attached to the router table for quick and easy relocation/removal of the fence) The cabinet itself is 41 x 27. The Cabinet mounts as an addition/extension to my cabinet saw. Will purchase a woodpecker PR2 lift as soon as I decide on the router. I already have a digital height readout mounted on the control side as well as a deadman switch. I've ordered a Jessem Mit-r-slide which I will adapt to my fence assemblies via machined aluminum stock if necessary. not to mention just way to many dooo dads and thingamabobs.. *L*.. You dont' even want the long version, trust me.. anyways, back to the question at hand.. I guess the answer is just cuz, easy access and control of router speed etc.
> 
> OH, did i mention, it just looks cool?


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## selewis (Apr 27, 2009)

So, i am brand new to the Forum. I, too, want to know what router(s) would be best suited to use in a table. However, I am concerned with a couple of other things: how powerful a tool do I need (is a 2 -2 1/4 HP enough); can I get a tool that can be adjusted from the top surface of the table without using a special surface plate (I am reluctant to have to deal with leveling the plate and assuring that it is flush to the rest of the table top); is variable speed necessary; and, finally, what specific tool(s) do you all recommend? Thanks in advance.


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## garycurtis (Sep 17, 2007)

With all of those controls ----special fence, special lift-- what do you intend to do? If it is to make lots of joints, then it makes sense. For edge work, some of it might be excessive.
People on forums debate the advantages of a Shaper instead of a router. It sounds like your investment would currently match the cost of a shaper (including the tooling).

For my shop made router table, I bought a 2.15hp Milwaukee. No lift. Height adjustment is above the table. For Dados only, I use a Festool router and their MFT table -- this avoids the hazards of a Dado blade on a tablesaw. For joints, I use a WoodRat mounting a DeWalt 625. 

My router investment for the table was $150. Period. Used only for edge work.

gary curtis


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## garycurtis (Sep 17, 2007)

Soft start offers an advantage primarily to hand-held routers. Not having it means that the machine will jump out of control every time you hit the on/off switch to the ON position. Variable speed keeps the cutting tips from going 'super-sonic'. Thus preventing overheating the carbide tip and burning the wood. 

Also allows speed adjustments to match the wood hardness.

gary curtis


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

bobj3, I passed up 'a little over the deep end' on this thing long ago, but all in all, that was kind of the point of the project. waiting for great deals, waiting for sales, nickel and diming it as I went along. The research I've put in, the time, craftsmanship etc. have all contributed to a huge learning curve. Primarily with cabinet design and layout.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

*Sounds like me..*

..except I think I've done this backwards. 

I've purchased the PC 7518, have the Incra MAST-R-Lift, Incra LS w/Wonderfence on order, will be ordering a Unisaw in a couple of weeks, hope to design a motorized lift for it and now think of remote speed control. I'm looking for a solution too.

TwoSkies, 

What did you use for the table? I want to use the space from the extension table as a router table but would also like to install a Veritas twin-screw end vise (own it) on the end.

The router table would be best in MDF but I'd like to have the end vise attached to laminated maple. I'm trying to decide between going one way or the other or making the end near the saw of MDF and the end from Maple. I'm wondering about the differing expansion factors due to humidity. 

I look forward to learning more of your decisions and following how they work for you.

Jim in Alaska


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Jim,
If I understand your concerns about the expansion table top correctly, I think there is a solution. This would work if you have some good quartersawn or stabile hardwood (maple, maybe?). 
Make a frame of hardwood. The frame would have the end laminated to accept the Veritas vise. The inside of the frame would have a step cut into it to accomodate the MDF or your choice. I would make a substantial step, perhaps 1/2". You could also attach cleats to the inside of the frame. The frame should be cross braced beneath, at intervals, to help support the router placement and to insure against movement. You can glue the MDF into the frame, fasten, or let it float. I would do the first two. Irregardless, this method allows for any movement of the MDF and allows for the vise mounting.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

*this what you mean?*

westend,

I have attached a sketch of what I think you said. Do I understand you correctly? I really like the idea of a hybrid. How do I account for the difference in expansion between the maple and the MDF if I affix the two together? I am envisioning two-sided laminate covered MDF to protect from moisture warping the MDF.

Perhaps a couple of screws near the router lift with slotted screw holes near the outside?

This would also have the advantage of making the router table "replaceable" without having to buy another 20+ board feet of hard maple ($6.20/bd ft here in Anchorage). ..or if I were to make my first ever mistake when routing the router lift cutout. <g>

Jim


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

*..oops..*

Did I mention that my idea was to make the top out of solid 8/4 maple?

Jim


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> westend,
> 
> I have attached a sketch of what I think you said. Do I understand you correctly? I really like the idea of a hybrid. How do I account for the difference in expansion between the maple and the MDF if I affix the two together? I am envisioning two-sided laminate covered MDF to protect from moisture warping the MDF.
> 
> ...


Jim,
Not quite what I had in mind but almost. The frame that holds the MDF should completely edge-band the piece of MDF. I'm guessing that this is called a stepped dado (see attachment). If you made this frame to join to the other pieces of maple, you're only joining maple to maple and along the same grain. Expansion would be the same for the maple pieces and the end of the frame. 
I used this kind of frame for a table saw extension. It worked out great.

I need to get along more on my learning curve with Sketchup so I can share designs and access the libraries and such.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Lance,

Treating the laminate router table top MDF) as if it were a giant router lift (i.e. with it resting in a dado cutout in the maple? Hmmm.... That has promise too! :yes4:

Jim


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

BigJim.. 

I broke down and purchased a custom sized table from Woodpeckers (28" x 49" x 1 3/8"). this included them placing the plate hole exactly where I needed it. The table itself is laminated MDF with a industrial grade phenolic laminate on both the top and bottom. Money I believe well spent. I don't believe expansion for you would be much of an issue. Mounting a twin screw to it might be though. Mounting wouldn't be a problem, but the constant stress applied to the screw might be unless you really do a good job of reinforcing the table and make good use of legs to the floor. My table is mounted to a cabinet I built. The LS runs on a pair of Incra TS rails and basemount. This way I can pop the entire assembly off in a heart beat...AS for remote control. I'm sold on it, I want it *L* and damned if i can find the milwaukee (jessem) 05626 motor. I have a call into Jessen and they are trying to run one down for me. Every where I've called, they are out of stock and not going to get anymore. Jessem says the have stopped production. My guess is due to the high cost. I've spoken to two electrical motor shops and they both agree that because of the ue of a circuit board, built into the big routers, converting them is not a very good idea..but I'll keep looking...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Bill,

I started out planning on purchasing a laminate TS extension router table and a laminated maple workbench with a twinscrew based upon Popular Mechanic's PM November 2004 Woodworking Guide: Build A Workbench - Popular Mechanics

Following their plans should make it suitably strong, I figured.

As I started pricing things, I realized that even with "free shipping" as offered by many (for the lower 48), it would still cost me about $200 in freight to get it trucked to Alaska. That idea galled the sh*t out of me, so back to the drawing board. Shortly thereafter I started hearing the new Unisaw has a table that's more like 30" wide, so I'd have to order one custom. Too many board feet of hardwood could be purchased for that $200 freight.

Now I'm awaiting a check (Friday??) to order a new Unisaw and then I'll decide for sure. My inclination is to build one out of cheap wood and see how I like it. I want to see just how inconvenient the low height, distance to the router is, and if the Biesemeyer works well with a combined unit. This will be a prototype. I'll either replace the factory table and go with a dedicated router table or decide to go with the maple. Either way it'll be a learning experience, both from whether or not I like the design as well as experience with that large of a glue-up and end vise mounting experience. 

Either way, the prototype can be shortened and used as a "beat-on" work surface for when you need to work work on something metal. 

I am really appreciating the feedback, ideas and suggestions I'm getting here. This is a good group!

Jim


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Jim... 
I never even thought of the shipping to AK... thats gotta be a deal killer for sure..

well, here is something more to ponder on....as if there isn't enough already. Consider a freestanding table. Giving you the flexibility to move the table around if and when you need to. Design your table a lil short of the height of your new saw and use it for an outfeed table. Killing two birds with one stone. A little planning ahead will allow for the quick removal of the LS positioner. Place a piece of 3/4" mdf or other suitable material over the top of the router table (just to save the table top from getting all scratched up). Give yourself some extra wide mitre slots so exact alignment isn't necessary. 
the only question would be where the dust port for the TS is located and how to work around it....


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## Kenichi (Apr 1, 2009)

*vs router conversion.*



bobj3 said:


> ...you can pull the control device off the router and mount it in a remote box if you want to..


Are you suggesting taking something like a DeWalt 618 motor, and actually removing the vs control (I assume its just a pot/variable resistor or similar), then putting this external to the motor?:sold:

I would never have thought of that. I like it. Anyone actually have some experience with this?:sold:


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

ok guys, a good friend passed this link onto me. One of the best if not the best piece i've seen on converting a 5625 Milwaukee to what amount to a 05626 Milwaukee (with factory remote VS control) I have concerns about how this might effec the routers PCB control. However, if you read the article. the author claims there are no issues?...I'm guessing this conversion would apply to just about any router.. Before you try it, consult with someone who would know one way or the other first...

WoodNet Forums: Milwaukee 5625 Router convert JessEm 5626 - WARNING - PIC HEAVY


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

For those of you out there that are following this lil adventure or just curious here's the latest. It seems that Jessem and Milwaukee have parted ways. the 05626 with remote variable speed is no longer available and out of production. (per jessem) I'm running out of patience but have yet to hear back from Jessem on a possibly inventory return they were expecting to recieve. Once again, the folks at Jessem have been great to deal with. I've been very impressed with their customer service. Most of of the websites that offer the unit just havn't taken the add offline yet. I've heard the rumor that Jessem is looking at providing another remote VS router via another mfg. heard that from two different vendors, but nothing to support it.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Bill,

after reading the forum for quite a little while, i know we have some milwaukee users but it seems the majority are dewalt, craftsman , bosch and makita. so it may not get a lot of questions. im not sure?????? maybe my take is wrong? anyway, i know i wouldnt be interested in a milwaukee router. dont get me wrong their sawzall is great. and their drills are too. i just havent heard a lot of people that have been on the forum for awhile talking about the milwaukee routers.maybe my post will get them started!

i think Nick on the forum you moderate may have a milwaukee? not sure?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

There are a lot of PC routers too..


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Levon..

Yes, surprisingly (at least to me) not much mention in here about the Milwaukee line of routers. I don't put much stock in any mfg's review of their own product. I do rely heavily on 2nd party reviews and consumer comments which weigh heavily in my decession making process. I think it part its due to the fact that most of the guys who have been using routers for quite a while have gone to PC and stuck with them. and why not, if something works and works well, why change. The killer with the 05626 in my opinion has got to be the price point. At 500 a pop, just how much market share did they think they were going to get? Considering that the base model 0525 is around 275 +/- a few bucks. 
Its priced competitively. Take away the router base, add a remote VSC (which in the end couldn't have added much if anything to the cost) and you've got something to should sell just above the PC 75182. But nooooooooooooooooooooooooo.... *L*


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

hiya BigJim,

yeppers, PC has a lot of em no doubt. In fact, I am leaning towards an 890 if I can't find a Milwaukee anytime soon. The 890 has been a solid performer even with its history of problems. From what i've read, PC is quick and more than willing to resolve any issues you may run across. I do believe that the newer models are more reliable, thinking that PC has corrected any problems with the line. 
One thing i've heard and have been trying to confrim is that the (just an example) 890 you might pick up at a local retailer is NOT identical to an 890 you may pick up at say Rockler or woodcraft. In order to put the product on the shelf, the mfg. is given a price point by the seller and the unit is then modeled to meet that price point. Often sacraficing high end quality parts in order to meet the sellers pricepoint..

btw, how goes your own project? where do you stand with it? I've been following your posts and havn't heard much of late?...

how's the 'skeeters' up there this time of year???


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

yep, you guys are right, there are a lot of pc's here. i have a vegetable soup in my small router collection. i have an old cheap b&d that has a 1/4 collet but works. i have a pc 7529 and a 3 base pro combo craftsman and my last was a bosch 1617 with 2 bases.
im no expert on any of them. the bosch is a great router. the craftsman is a joy to work with, the worklights and the ease of adjustment is wonderful.

i think we all just seem to prefer certain brands for some reason and most seem to work very well. its sort of like fishing, if you have confidence in a lure, you will catch fish on it, but no matter how good another lure is, if we dont have confidence in it, by nature we wont use it enough to catch fish on it. dumb but true


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Levon.. your right,,, dead on..

I think it has more to do with two things. First is "does it work".. and if it does, why mess with it. and Second is "feel". We learn how to use a specific router. We learn how it feels, how it reacts, we come to anticipate what the router will do. The operation of a good tool becomes instinctive. We push a lil here, lean this way or that, tilt the head to the left or right, set the speed just right. We get used to the weight, the noise and the kick. Its all good, when it works well and we've spent some time getting used to the tool. Everytime we get a new one, the process starts all over again.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> hiya BigJim,
> 
> yeppers, PC has a lot of em no doubt. In fact, I am leaning towards an 890 if I can't find a Milwaukee anytime soon. The 890 has been a solid performer even with its history of problems. From what i've read, PC is quick and more than willing to resolve any issues you may run across. I do believe that the newer models are more reliable, thinking that PC has corrected any problems with the line.
> One thing i've heard and have been trying to confrim is that the (just an example) 890 you might pick up at a local retailer is NOT identical to an 890 you may pick up at say Rockler or woodcraft. In order to put the product on the shelf, the mfg. is given a price point by the seller and the unit is then modeled to meet that price point. Often sacraficing high end quality parts in order to meet the sellers pricepoint..
> ...


 
Bill,

My project goes.. but not nearly as fast as I want it to! I've received the PC 7518, an Incra LS 25 Supersystem, Incra Mast-r-lift, Wixey remote digital readout and an Incra miter gauge. I've got a MasterGage and Lee Valley 50" aluminum straightedge in the mail.

I've got the cash for the Unisaw but am holding off ordering it until I finalize the power run into my garage. My desire is to install a 100A fused disconnect off of the mains (just downstream of the main breaker) and have a plug/receptacle that connects a 3/c #2 cable to a subpanel in the garage. I want to use an "extension cord" approach since I'm leasing and want to take it with me when I go.

The holdup so far is looking for a less-expensive plug/receptacle pair. Finding a 100A setup that's NEC 3R (rainproof) rated has so far left me with $1,000 just for the two. That's just too d*mned much to spend on a plug.

So, I'm working with some of the local electrical suppliers to see if one of them will cut me a deal. I'm not looking for free but am hoping one of them will consider something near cost, since its for hobby use and I specify hundreds of thousands in electrical components per year for industrial applications. The people I've needed to talk to have been on vacation the last couple of weeks; starting next week it's time to go hardcore! 

If that is unsuccessful, I'll drop back to 60A service. With that, I have to decide if I want to have the 40A slow-blow circuit Delta recommends for their 5hp Unisaw or if I should go with the 3hp. The $200 extra for the motor I can see, but not $1,000 for the outside outlet! :shout:

I'm getting mighty antsy though.. I've given the cast iron tables on my dripp press, jointer, planer, bandsaw and scrollsaw a going over with Phosphoric acid / Boeshield and gave them a preliminary tuning. That's what led to ordering the straightedge and mastergage!

As for the skeeters.. its been a sunny spring so they aren't too thick.. barely enough for a swarm to carry away a small dog. A couple of weeks of rain though, and then the *moose* better watch out!

Jim


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

hey Jim...

I see your point about the whole electrical thing. Hate to put money into something that isn't going to be permanent. Since I don't know the EC codes up there. have you considered a electrical generator as a source of power? Minor mods to tie into your shop while you are there, and when your ready to relocate, it relocates with ya and you can keep it as a backup or just sale it outright to recoup some of the expense?..


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Hey Jim,
I've also been folowing your setup process and you may have sorted out the details by now but I thought I'd throw this out to you. If I'm understanding your intention and process correctly, you wish to wire a 100 amp subpanel in the garage to power your woodworking tools. You would like to take the subpanel with you when you end your lease and move. Am I correct so far?

Here's what I would do: Establish location and install the subpanel in the garage. Pull three runs of #2 and ground to the main panel if there is a space for a 100 amp breaker or to a disconnect box that is fused. If you use a disconnect box, there will be less fuss and muss when you choose to vacate the circuit. I would forgo the plug and receptacle. You will have some minor disconnect work when you move but it will not be that much more than removing a cable with receptacle. Good luck with the power tools.


BigJimAK said:


> Bill,
> 
> My project goes.. but not nearly as fast as I want it to! I've received the PC 7518, an Incra LS 25 Supersystem, Incra Mast-r-lift, Wixey remote digital readout and an Incra miter gauge. I've got a MasterGage and Lee Valley 50" aluminum straightedge in the mail.
> 
> ...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Yes Lance, I agree.

The only reason I was looking at the "extension cord" approach was to be a "no footprint" tenant, running the power cord out under the garage door only when I was working in the shop. This would preclude attaching it to the building and passing it through a hole in the wall. This is just too much extra to pay. 

I'll need to look for a "minimally invasive" approach to getting the cord into the garage. Stay tuned.. I'm moving forward. I stopped by my local Delta dealer after work to order the saw on Friday but the head guy is only there 8-5 M-F so I'll have to go there next week.

Tomorrow I figure out how to get the cord into the building leaving the least impact on the place after I move.

Jim

Jim


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

There is always an alternative solution to a problem.
As the OP has surmised, remote speed control can be implemented in different flavors. I would assume that all EVS routers can have the soft-start and speed control circuits bypassed in order to use a remote speed control. With the use of lifts, digital height gauges, and remote speed controls, the user can do everything from the top of the table. 

Jim, I hope you get that saw hooked up, soon. I'll be eagerly waiting for your impressions. Is the Unisaw you're looking at the Model 36-L336, the one with the single cast trunnion?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Lance.. thats exactly what I want to do, everything from the top of the table...

with regards to variable speed control. the heart of the matter lies within the "Electronic Feedback Module". In all of the wiring diagrams I have looked at now, the EFM is a stationary mounted control unit at the base of the router. The speed control mechanism, either a dial or switch level is basically built into the EFM. The EFM gets its signal from the armature. Remove the EFM and you remove the signal, no speed control. Now in the case of the link I posted a while back. The EFM is replaced with an EFM designed for 'remote" control. This EFM looks to be a direct replacement for the factory unit. It almost appears to me that this unit is what might be used on the 05626 Milwaukee that started this whole thing. However, I do not know that to be a fact. Once this EFM is isntalled, its all downhill from there. The orginal creater of that link, a fellow named Casey Puyleart, did a fantastic job. Since the 05626 Milwaukee is no longer available, and I've all but given up trying to locate one, I've put in an email attempting to find out if the parts used in the upgrade as still available..

the saga continues...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Bill,

I'm enjoying following your thread, as it's inspired me to think about doing it to my 7518 at some time in the future. Life is a journey of learning!

Lance,

Yes, 
I'm looking at the Unisaw with the cast iron trunion, only either the 36-L352 (52" vs. 36" rip) or the 36-L551, the 5hp big brother to it. The 5hp manual calls for 40A slow-blow fuses, even though the motor is only 21 full load amps. That's what's encouraging me to look at the 100A service, instead of 60A. By the time I turn on my dust collector and then fire up the tablesaw... 60A would probably work but it'd really torque me off to set it up for 60A and have it borderline too small day 1 when for an extra 10-15% you never have to think about it.

I see this as "my last tablesaw" so...

Jim


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

welp, here we go. this is for those of you that have been following this thread or at least have found it to be of some interest. Earlier today, I finally commited to a router. After having considered both the PC 7518 and the Milwaukee 5625-20 I've decided on the Milwaukee. I found a good price or at least a fair price on Ebay earlier today. $250.00 for a new router which included a 1/4" collet. Not a price that will qualifty for deal of the century, but a fair price none the less. 
After having spent a considerable amount of time researching and reading on both, mostly reviews and the like. I decided upon the Milwaukee for a couple of reason. First and foremost is the fact that I will be able to convert the unit to remote control. Both on/off and variable speed control will be handled outside of the box. Second was the fact that the Mil. is a bit quieter than the PC. Since I work out of my basement keeping the noise down at night is a plus. Third was the availability of service, should I need it. I found that I have a authorized Milwaukee repair shop, just 20 minutes down the road. I stopped in and spoke with the guys in the repair shop and they were just as helpful as could be. Commenting hightly on the 5625 which pretty much sealed the deal. The few things that I did find a bit concerning was one, it appears that there are models made in the USA and there are those made in china. I've been unable to narrow down which is made where. The unit I purchased is labeled as being Mfg. in US with parts from both china and USA. Just the world we live in I guess. Secondly while in the Mil. repair shop today, I asked if they could give me a price on a unit. (this was before buying the one I did). The guy came back after having made a phone call and said that it would be at least 3 weeks before they could get one which I thought rather odd. Even more so than that, according to the guy on the other end of the line, he wasn't sure if the 5625 was about to be discontinued in lew of new line. I thought about it a while and decided that anything 'new' is gonna be more expensive and that I hoped that if they did come out with a new line, its a good as the old one. 
Both the PC and the Milwaukee owners are for the most part extremely loyal to their brand. Pretty much split down the middle in terms of numbers and opinions. What was perhaps even more surprising was the lack of trash talk between the two camps. I found that to be very refreshing. One does not stand out over the other in just about every category for table mounted routing. Now if your looking for a unit to do both above and below table, that reviews and opinions again, are pretty much split. With a slight edge going to the PC side, if only for the fact, the 7518 been around longer. 
So now, I can't wait for the thing to arrive. I received my Incra PRLv2 a few weeks back. Man, I gotta tell ya, this thing is one hefty piece of equipment. Solid, well built and crafted. I was very impressed with it. I can't comment on its operation yet, but just out of the box I have to say, if it works half as well as it looks, I'll be very happy. The Wixey digital readout I ordered with it came as well. A no brainer to install on this particular lift since all holes were predrilled and ready to have the Wixey mounted up. It took all of 20 minutes to mount the gauge onto the lift. Setting up the router into the lift and the lift into the table are non issues. Quite simple. 
Converting the 5625 to remote control like the one in the link I posted earlier shouldn't be difficult at all. I contacted the sourse for the parts and they were all readily available and will ship out in 5-7 days. As of today, the prices are still current. The tech I spoke with at Charles Day said that in the past few weeks he has had several calls for the parts listed. A half dozen or better. I just had to laugh. I'd like to think the calls were due to the readership of this thread, but who knows. Since the Electronic Feedback Control is a bolt on feature and key to the upgrade, the rest is all downhill from there. Wiring and type of controls to be used are up to the builder. Leaving wide open all kinds of options for fit and finish. 
Right now, I've got two head scratches. First is the WonderFence I purchased. My LS positioner's fence mounts dead on 90 to my table top. No if's and's or butt's. when I went to mount the wonder fence, she mounted up with almost a 3 degree pitch from the table top to the top of the fence. The WF 2 piece fence assembly lies flat to the table when not attached to the LS fence. After checking with a known good square it appears the problem is with the "offset" mechanisms. I contacted incra and the replied this was no big deal. I dunno about that... and tend to disagree. especially when doing upright boards. So I'll have to come up with a solid shim set up. 
Second is the mounting of the Jessem Mit-r-slide to the LS fence. The jessem unit is a beast. Heavy, and solidly built. Very impressive piece of equipment. Absolutely no slop between the round rail the unit travels back and forth on and the miter assembly. This unit beats the heck out of the factory Incra sled by a mile. Or at best, I would suspect it will. 
Since my table is a hefty 28" x 50" and the router opening centers 20"s off the front edge, I'll have alot of table behind the fence to make use of in one fashion or another. I plan on taking and using this part of the table for an assembly area for my pocket hole jig. The LS will eventually be mounted on rails and a base unit that will allow for quick and easy removal, hence leaving the back side of the table open for use. Had I thought of it prior to building my cabinet, I might have even considered building a down draft system into the back portion of the router table and using a portion of the table as the draft cavity. Right now, the cabinet itself stands at about 38"s. Which for some may seem a little high, but I find it a very comfortable work height. Especially since my back ain't what it used to be....
So the saga continues...


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Bill, that sounds like a "killer" setup you have there. I've always liked Milwaukee tools. They seem to build a rugged and reliable tool. Being able to dial everything in from the top of the table is way cool, too. Post up a pic or two of your table when you have it set up.
I wonder if any of the older Bosch speed controls (non-vs) mate up with the VS routers?

BTW, no problems about table height, I just lowered mine to 39 1/2" to mate with the table saw.:yes4:


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Lance...

the real deal maker for me on this project was the fact that I was able to find an Electronic feedback control unit that was/is a direct replacement for the factory Milwaukee unit. I can't give you an informed answer to your Bosch question, but I would suggest that you contact your nearest authorized repair dealer. Over the course of the last 3 or 4 months, I've talked with I dont know how many repair guys, inquiring as to what can and cant' be done. by far, the factory trained guys were the sharpest. My router arrived today, so this weekend, she's going in..*S*


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi twoskies , what was the name of nick and your new forum? i know its off subject, but i lost it.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Levon.. make no mistake about it, Woodworking Sense is Nick's forum.. the guy is pouring his heart and soul into it. I"m just there to help when I can....Its actually kinda fun getting in on the ground floor...so far, a bit slow, but enjoyable..


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

thanks for the name "woodworking sense" im sorry, i didnt mean anything, i just thought you were a moderator ? i have no idea of the upper eschelons of a forum and plead ignorant to such areas. i didnt mean to upset you and if youre a moderator there is no reason for it to bother anyone.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Levon.. I''m sure ya didn't, and nothing taken....Please, stop in from time to time. I'm just a "lower echolooney". *S*..but its been fun, and they guys thus far are a great bunch..


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi, I'm kinda new to this forum so bear with me a bit. 
I haven't been into routing very long and have been wanting to set up a table. I don't think I have the skils yet to build my own so will probably get on already built. 
Anyway, I also would like to have put a medium to large router on it but, after some extensive looking, mostly on the internet, I was not able to locate a fixed speed router rated more than 1 3/4 hp. Possibly an older, used model, could be located but I sure couldn't find one. I did get a Freud 1700 because of the above table bit change and bit depth adjustment. Another thing I liked about the Frued was the speed control on the top center of the unit making it relatively easy to reach. 
This router is only 2 1/4 hp but should suit my needs.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey there John...

Ya gotta start somewhere's eh?.. *S* I'm finally nearing the end of setting up my table so i kinda got a feel for where you are right now. I decided to "buy" my table top, just because I really didn't want to be bothered building one. If you read around this forum, Most of the folks here will tell ya to go ahead and make one yourself. There are some serious advantages to doing this, first and foremost is the fact you end up with exactly what you want. Second is that you get a world of real world experience Building a good table is pretty straight forward and there are plenty of plans available. A very good way to help develope your skills Third is the fact that if ya screw up, which we all do from time to time, your not out a ton of money. I hope you enjoyed researching your setup as much as I did mine. It was a learning curve I completely did not expect....AS for the big router with fixed speed. I think, (and I'm by not means an expert on this) that the industry is quickly moving away from that profile. As bits become bigger and heavier and the router itself becomes a increasingly versatile woodworking tool, having control over your speed is a huge advantage. Personally that was a feature I was dead set on having. 
Just a quick update on my table... the two head scratchers I thought I had turned out to be very easy to take care. First was the Wonder Fence having a pitch inwards off of the tabletop surface. Here it turns out that Incra in all of their wisdom provide 6 clear plastic shims with the fence. ALWAYS be sure to check your packaging *L*.. Shims in turn are installed above or below the mounting screws that offset assembly to the backside fence. A couple shims and bang, she was dead on... The Jessem Mit-R-Slide took a bit more thinking.. but in the end, I found that if i mounted the right side bracket to the front of the old incra fence, then mount the left side bracket to the back side of the incra fence I'd have a secure spot to start from. From there, all it took were two short pieces of T-track. Attaching to both the bracket and the assembly. This also allows for a lil laterial adjustment of the rig. Ended up being incredibly rigid. Smoooooooooooth operation and square to the table for the full run. 

Just waiting on the electrical components from Chas. Day now... life is good!!!! *S*


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

sorry folks, just not real good at quick replies...*L*


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi John.

if most people will tell you to build your own there may be great reasons as these are the opinions of experts. 

search the forum before you do anything and try and get lots of opinions. there are some very smart and experienced people here. 

this is in no disrespect to 2skies, but there are many here that can give you guidance. never take advice on any project without thoroughly researching it, no matter what your final decision is.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

John,

In the 3hp class of single-speed routers, a couple of models are:
Porter-Cable 7519 (fixed base)
Porter-Cable 7538 (plunge base)
Delta Machinery|Porter-Cable

and 
Hitachi M12SA2 (plunge base)
HITACHI Power Tools: Home

All three (amongst others) are good routers. Others may provide other manufacturers but this should give you a start.

Jim


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

none taken.... i think...


Jim.. 

how's goes your adventure??


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

(trying to keep it short to avoid side-tracking the thread) I got my new Unisaw on order (last week) but Delta says that it will be 4-5 weeks to get to Anchorage. I've decided to build a combination table saw extension table / router table out of MDF and Formica once it arrives and I am certain of the dimensions (none in local stores).

Meanwhile I've figured out how to easily and inexpensively remount the PC 7518 speed control separate from the router. I'll worry about that though, after the table is built and I've used it a bit.

Jim


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

OK.. got the electrical parts from Chas. Day Co. the other day. the install was incredibly easy. Nothing to it at all. Excellent job by the orginal JCBrewing describing what to do. But when it was all said and done. I got ISSUES..*L* should I have expected less *S*..

here's what happens, and Im hoping some EE out there might have a good answer. Once completely retrofitted the router will not run??? UNLESS I toggle the on/off switch several times. Each time I turn it on and then off, the shaft spins a little, then a little more with the next on/off cycle and so on, until after about 5-7 on/off cycle she comes up to speed and appears to run just fine. At this point, the speed control works great. No way to tell just how fast the router is going, but she sounds like she did prior to the retro fit. I did take and undo everything, reinstall the orginal module and wiring and she runs just fine.. no issues at all. I have as yet to put any kind of a load on the router either with the retro fit or OE. (by load I mean run anywood over it) I"ve ohmed out the speed control and i have a nice resistance swing from one end to the other...I'm thinking I have a bad module,,but who know.. anythoughts on the matter out there??? At this point I really don't want to hear I got a bad router...*L* ohhhhhhhhhhh hell no!!!! I guess if it were easy, it wouldn't have been this much fun so far....


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Howdy, Two...

Is the performance any different if you turn it on while it is set to high speed?

Jim


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Bill, I'm no EE but do dabble a bit in electronics. Does the new setup work after you have got it running into it's normal state. In other words, after you have toggled it into working, can you shut it off and then flip the toggle and it starts up again? I hate to guess at this kinfd of stuff since it can really lead off into a tangent but it reminds me of a capacitor trying to reform. If you have a bad cap the speed control board is most likely your problem. Remember, this is a WAG from a dabbler. Good luck with the setup and I hope the problem cures itself.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

BigJim...

Nope... Doesn't seem to matter where the speed control is set, high or low, I still have to toggle on/off several times...


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Lance... 

Yes, after she finally comes up to speed, anytime there after I can shut it down and if I start it back up, in a relatively short period of time, she works fine...But If I let her sit a while.. (I can't really say how long, perhaps a 20 min. to a hour) I have to go back to toggling to bring it up to speed...


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Bill, do you have a link to a schematic or a good pic of the speed control board? The replacement module that you put in the router comes from Milwaukee, doesn't it?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Lance.. here is the wiring diagram for the module for a 5626-69,

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CMS/Diagrams/58-01-0718.pdf

which is essentially what i've converted my 5625 to. Everything is identical. The Module I got from Chas Day. co. is to the best of my knowledge is what milwaukee uses. Of this, i'm 95% certain (amazing how much trouble 5% can cause though). Now today, she fired over in only 4 on/off cycles. which leads me to think there is a capacitor issue within the module itself. Which may correct itself over time. once she fired over, I let it sit and went to work on the DC for my cabinet. Came back several hours later and she fired right up. It now appears that the more I cycle it on/off and run it,, the better it gets...I'll see what happens tomorrow morning after she sits overnight.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Hey Bill,
I looked at the parts diagram you linked to and it does depict a handful of caps on the board. I have very little experience with that kind of circuit but would assume that the power is shunted between the caps on the board, basically controlling the inrush current that the motor "sees". A poor cap in that circuit would produce the symptoms you have stated. 
Another thought that came to mind is: If the contact posts or spade connectors are dirty, oxidized, or loose. Any poor contact between the wires and the clips might interfere with a good electrical path. The solution to that would be to hit all the connectors with a deoxidizing solvent, Deoxit is one of the best and is sold at Radio Shack.
It sounds like the setup is coming around and maybe your initial electronic problems will sort themselves out. I guess exchanging the part might assure that no future problems crop up but waiting, though, might be the easiest solution. Good luck with the new control and keep us informed of how you like it.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Its all good babe, its all good, at least for now *S*... seems the more I ran the unit, it finally built up enough capacitance so that now, she runs just fine on the first try. I've been communicating with a trained Mil. tech on this and am awaiting his thoughts on the matter. I've got full speed control regardless of switch position at start up. Heading down the home stretch now. 

The 'box' (for lack of a better word) that the router sits in is approx. 14" h x 12" w x 27" L. I didn't much like this, so i've decided to narrow it down a bit and recess the control panel (on/off switch, speed control and digital height gauge) and DC port in the back by a few inches. It actually looks better, keeps the controls out of harms way and allows me to run the 4" dust port down against the backof the cabinet. I've boxed in the digital gauge and will now use small magnets to locate in plain view when needed. Since the thing comes with a nice long pigtail this is easily accomplished...gotta love those little magnets...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Its all good babe, its all good, at least for now *S*... ...


How about some photos?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Jim...

I'll see about trying to get some kind of photo this weekend....


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Bill,

it only takes about 2 minutes to take some digital photos then upload them to the forum.

even i can do it.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Pictures are forthcoming......

I got around to mounting up the plumbing for my table today and I have to give a shout out to PeachTree for some nice product. I went with a 4" DC port out of the back of the box, into a elbow. I decided to go horizontal to the table rather than up and down. The reasoning behind this was simply it would be easily to attach and unattach the hose from the plumbing. Also, sweeping up the floor around the cabinet will be alot easier. Off the elbow I went into a 4" with a 2 1/2" branch, then into a hose adaptor. PeachTree offers some "sleeves" that work just great, and make for a much nicer looking connection between fittings. I also went and installed a gate just behind the elbow and another at the 2 1/2" branch. This way I can controll air flow to either one or both what ever works best given a particular situation. I had to make a bracket for the far end of the plumbing to support everything which was easy enough to do and actually don't look half bad. The reason for the bracket is that the duct work stands about 2 and half inches proud of the back of the cabinet. Certainly not a deal breaker, more of an annoyance than anything else. I looked 7 ways from sunday to get her closer, but it is, what it is...and I can live with it. 
One thing I would certainly reconsider is the placement of the router box. The cabinet I've built is something along the lines of the famous Norm A's router cabinet. The thing I would consider redoing is placing router box at either end of the cabinet rather than in the middle, with the top drawers to the left or the right of the box. A well thought out cabinet would allow for the creation of a door front which would allow for full access to the box without having to remove the router itself. This would be ideal for just simple cleaning, inspection and so on. One might also consider placing the dust port on the bottom deck. Run the plumbing straight down and then out either to the side or back. I don't see any real advantages to control placement doing it this way, but don't see any downsides either. 
Just another lil assembly note is that I built the cabinet with a 11/16" recess across the full top. This has allowed for the installation of a full piece of 3/4" MDF as a sub-base for the tabletop. I keep a deck of playing cards in the shop for shimming and found them to be most usefull on this project. A good straight edge combined with cutting up the playing cards and I managed to make a perfectly flat surface in lil over an hour. The MDF is screwed down into the cabinet cross braces. The table top will be attached with screws coming up through the mdf and into the bottom of the top. All mounting holes are predrilled and then sanded flush. The holes going into the bottom of the top table will also be countersunk. The top is 1 3/8" thick, so I got plenty of room...
I've also decided against going with the Incra rails for the LS positioner. Instead, I had already decided to mount WoodPecker's combo track around the back 1/2 of the table for my pocket hole work. I figured why not use the combo track in combination with a sled to hold the LS in position. This way, I can remove the LS without any problems, ID a mounting position and all is good...


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Hey Bill,
Sounds like you're making good progress! Glad to hear the electronics have sorted themselves out. For a door to the motor section, I chose to make mine hinge down. That allows for the door to stay out of the way for removal and allows for easy dust removal. Pics are in my gallery.
I'm still on the fence about drawers and doors in a machine cabinet. Shelves work good for me. Of course, others have different ideas about storage, check out the winner from Fine Woodworking's tool-chest category:Tool Chest Contest Winner is Selected - Fine Woodworking


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

hey guys. sorry i'm dragging this out, my laptop took a dump last weekend and I just go it back, Lost everything, you know what they say about backing everything up....


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> hey guys. sorry i'm dragging this out, my laptop took a dump last weekend and I just go it back, Lost everything, you know what they say about backing everything up....


Been there...I feel your pain. I had the CCFL inverter board go out in mine, two weeks ago. I lasted a day 1/2 before I had to buy another screen. I tried using another machine but discovered just how dependent I was on my own apps and information, nevermind the lack of passwords.
With one machine, I lost the power supply section but not the harddrive.That's when I discovered these cute little buggers: external harddrive enclosure. Plugged the old drive into the enclosure and a USB cable to the new laptop and, presto, restored all my info.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

This thread has been very helpful for me, guys. My new TS gets delivered on Friday; I've picked up the MDF and Formica and have my bits and miscellaneous on order. I need to spend a few days writing out my table design (after carefully re-reading this and other threads) and putting together and tuning the saw. Also, i've decide not built my RT as a TS extension but make it free-standing. 

The journey is about to begin. Where it goes, time will tell.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

*finally*

ok,,, finally got this thing back up and running,,, hope these pics work.. 

if they do,,,and there is interest, i'll post more

b.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

more pics of the completed table.. (more or less completed *S*)


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Excellant job, Bill! Very fine craftsmanship.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Thank you Jim... *S*

I've played with her a few times now and have to say, she's well worth the time and efforth that went into her


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Holy shinoly! That is one nice effort. The cabinet is great and all the bells and whistles too!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Thanks Lance... *S*


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

OK guys, after a few weeks of using the set up now,, I have to say that the routers variable speed was/is well worth the effort. It appears that after the initial problems with the routers capasitors, everything is running smoothly. The router itself is a real amp hog to be sure. especially under a load. I will run a dedicated circuit once I find a good location for the table in my shop. Couple issues that I would reconsider are: using 4 swivel casters instead of 2 fixed and 2 swivel. Router positioned at the end of the cabinet rather than in the middle. Doing this would allow for more DC options as well as incorporating a downdraft set up as part of the backside of the top. I am going to build a small addon cabinet to put on the backside just for my Kreg materials and a place to sit my mini router table (dremel with the dremel router accessory).
The wonderfence does a great job of collecting dust all by itself. Time saved on cleaned alone made it well worth the investment.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Bill that is one very nice setup! Excellent work on everything! A real inspiration.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Thank you Deb..

appreciate the feedback *S*


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Bill,

That is one sweet router table if there ever was one. Does it make coffee too? 

Awesome job!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

thank you Bob..

NO, it don't make coffee!!!

but it does make on helluva omlett....*S*...


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

TwoSkies57 said:


> thank you Bob..
> 
> NO, it don't make coffee!!!
> 
> but it does make on helluva omlett....*S*...





:lol::laugh::lol::lol::laugh:


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

*Omletts????????*



TwoSkies57 said:


> thank you Bob..
> 
> NO, it don't make coffee!!!
> 
> but it does make on helluva omlett....*S*...



Great looking table Bill...*S*. I love a western omlett. I'll be over as soon as I get my GPS set.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Welp... its always something....otherwise, it just wouldn't be any fun. *L*

When I ordered my hardware for the router upgrade from Day in Chicago they told me that they were having a run on the materials. It seems that quite a few folks were going for the remote control setup. Just wondering if anyone else in here has tried it? I had thought that the control module issue (capsistors problem, possibly anyways) was resolved. NOPE..If she sits for a week for so, Its back to square on, having to start and stop, start and stop unitil something builds up a head of steam. then noooooooo problems. But the initial stopping and starting, sometimes on its own is obviously annoying as hell, not to mention the safety issues......I'll probably just go ahead and order another control module (40 bucks) but would like to know if anybody else has experienced this problem using this setup...
Other than that, the table has been great, DC is excellent, everything works great, including the router *L* once she gets over being tempermental...Kinda like morning sickness,,, mabye I'll find a couple lil trim routers in the routerbox some morning...

thanks for all you guys help and feedback on this project... its been a blast...

Bill


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

WEll, I probably should have just started another thread, but this one seems to have a great deal of interest in it. so....

As you might know, I installed a Incra (woodpeckers) PRLv2 lift in my table. Along with the lift, I picked up a Wixen digital readout height guage. Well, damned if the Wixey doesn't turn on by itself whenever I start my router. *L* I thought I might be bumping into it and not aware of it at first, but nope. Crank up the router, and the guage comes on all by its widdle self!.....
I contacted Wixey about this issue and got a nice note back from Mr.Barry Wixey himself. Below was his response for those who may be experiening the same problem:
1. Most routers are double insolated so the power cords have no ground terminal. In some situations just running a ground wire from the metal case of the router back to a good earth ground has resolved the problem.



2. In other situations it was necessary to also make sure that the scale of the readout was also connected back to ground.



3. Sometimes connecting the scale back to ground actually made it worse and the solution here was to totally isolate the readout components from ground. This would require using a plastic screw to attach the scale to the “L” bracket , placing a plastic washer between the “L” bracket and the scale, and 2 plastic washers between the sensor and the "Z" bracket to isolate the components permanently 

I should say that this is more of an annoyance than a real problem. I just hate buying all of those little battery's. *S*...


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Beautiful job. I may have to give you bump once I get a chance to build my table. I am using almost the exact same setup but I am in the middle of a project and don't have time right now to build the cabinet. When I do, I will have to ask you some details on how you did the remote speed control and how you got the Wixey to work on start up.

Nice job!!!!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Thanks Brad... I appreciate the comments...

I can tell ya right off, the remote control was no biggie and the getting the Wixey to turn on at start up is/was completely unintentional..I'd be happy to answer any questions you have...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Thanks Brad... I appreciate the comments...
> 
> I can tell ya right off, the remote control was no biggie and the getting the Wixey to turn on at start up is/was completely unintentional..I'd be happy to answer any questions you have...


Yea, tell me how to do that one too, Bill!! <g>

I occasionally have my wixey reset on me. I'll try the grounding. I tried connecting the router to the digital readout's aluminum case mount, to no avail. I'll try grounding the router itself. Makes sense.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Jim, 

here is the diagram that Wixey provided me with. This appears to be their best shot at a solution thus far and there is no guarentee that this will work...
With this approach it appears they are trying to completely isolate the guage from the lift..


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Jim,
> 
> here is the diagram that Wixey provided me with. This appears to be their best shot at a solution thus far and there is no guarentee that this will work...
> With this approach it appears they are trying to completely isolate the guage from the lift..


Thanks. Looks like they are isolating the ground.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Jim,
> 
> here is the diagram that Wixey provided me with. This appears to be their best shot at a solution thus far and there is no guarentee that this will work...
> With this approach it appears they are trying to completely isolate the guage from the lift..


This is the most logical approach to the problem I can think of. It will either solve the problem or at least isolate the source. I don't design digital circuits but I apply all day long them in my "day job". As an instrumentation / electrical engineer designing petroleum production / processing facilities for the Arctic (where there's 1,500 ft of permafrost which provides an exceptionally sh*tty ground) it's a battle. Ground current loops and the ilk often lead us to techniques such as isolated high-resistance (or floating, for instrument) grounds that wouldn't be required or considered in more temperate regions. I'll give it a try!

Thank you!!


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> This is the most logical approach to the problem I can think of. It will either solve the problem or at least isolate the source. I don't design digital circuits but I apply all day long them in my "day job". As an instrumentation / electrical engineer designing petroleum production / processing facilities for the Arctic (where there's 1,500 ft of permafrost which provides an exceptionally sh*tty ground) it's a battle. Ground current loops and the ilk often lead us to techniques such as isolated high-resistance (or floating, for instrument) grounds that wouldn't be required or considered in more temperate regions. I'll give it a try!
> 
> Thank you!!


We are installing quite a few control systems for BP Alaska over the next few years. Mainly for Fire and Gas applicaitions. All the Honeywell Safety Insturmented Systems are floated, the instruments are usually on a safety ground. The latter is up to the individual operators\plants and the mfg of the instrument.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

for those who are following this thread, an update on the Milwaukee remote speed control.
For the last year or so, I've been installing a new service for my home. Installed the panel, weather head etc. in preperation for the hookup. welp, damned if I didn't drop a leg coming into the house. This sorta of force me to finish up the job and get the new service up and running. Long story short, turned out the problem was with the transformer. One thing I had done in preperation was rewire my entire shop with dedicated 20amp circuits. Four in total and a few 15amp circuits. Since the rewire, i've been running the Mil. on a dedicated 20amp line. and it has performed flawlessly. No more start/stop, slowing down etc. like before. I do believe that I"m also getting more rpm's out of the motor (but that just might be warm/fuzzy kinda thing)and the remote variable speed controll is definately more responsive. I am forced to conclude that this router really does need every amp it can get. I can't say I put it to the test like some of the other guys in here, but for the average joe or someone who uses their router a good bit, I don't think you can go wrong with the Milwaukee 5625.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> I can't say I put it to the test like some of the other guys in here, but for the average joe or someone who uses their router a good bit, I don't think you can go wrong with the Milwaukee 5625.


Glad to hear your Milwaukee is running great.

I have used it continuously for the last few weeks and I am very happy with it too.

The real test comes in a couple of weeks when I start the raised panels and the coping.

I hate my sled and I am looking at the Infinity SC100.

Have you used it?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Brad,

Like you,, just getting under way witha project, this time a Christmas project for the grandson. A chest of drawers that really won't require much in the way of the router 
table..but thats ok *L*.. finishing up a custom crosscut sled that I can't wait to see 
if it works as well as I hope. 
I have a woodpeckers coping sled. and from what little i have used it thus far, I have to say its great. I looked up the infinity series of sleds and found only two, the cop100 and the cop200. The cop100 is a beast. I really like the use of the toggle hold down clamps. The woodpecker has screw downs. They do work well and can't find a fault with them, but I just like toggle's better.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Having worked with the table now for a few months, i've found a few things to be most advantagous. 1st issue was that I was always having to work "around" the power cord. The shortish cord proved to be a bit of an annoyance. So I went and purchased some 12/2ga. soj cable at the local big box store along with a male plug. I went with the 12 ga. due to the amp rating on my router. At 15 amps a few extra cents per foot for the soj was well justified I feel. Instead of a 6 foot power cord now I have a 15 foot cord. I can plug it in just about anywhere and most of it lays on the floor out of the way. While I was at it, I thought that a outlet on the table would be nice to have. Since doing one was relatively cheap I picked up the parts and put her on. The table is a multipurpose table. RT as well as an assembly table when needed. Having an outlet has worked out great. The miter channel track has worked out well also. Holds nice and sturdy for pockethole assemblies. The fence is completely removalbe so I'm planning on taking and making a 3/4 plywood "cover" for the top so as to not mare the RT suface unnecessarily. 

The problem with the Milwaukee router surging seems to have gone away now. Whatever the problem was, seems to have corrected itself. Thank goodness!!! Still have issues with the digital height gauge turning on all by its widdle self, but no biggie. Just have to make sure I turn it off when I'm done. As for the functionality of the guage.. fantastic. The Incra fence system continues to amaze me. Incredibly accurate and adjustable as well as repeatable. A weeee bit of a learning curve to get the hang of quickly setting it up, but once you get that under your belt, it becomes second nature. I'm still tweaking the cabinet portion. figuring out what I want to put where. Router bit storage, accessory storage etc. Guess that's different for everyone. The PRv2 lift requires a lil maintenance. If I dont' occasionally pull it out and give it a good dusting off, she wants to hang up a bit from time to time. I'm currentlly trying a lil paste wax on the columns and so far so good...I added a few pics of the new cable and outlet...

Seems Santa came a lil early this year and for those of you on the fence regarding the new line of Stanley Sweetheart planes. I gotta say, the name does the plane justice!!! For the money, a great value. outta the box she's almost perfect. A little time on the worksharp, a micro bevel and she just slide through some very twisted cherry and figured walnut..


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Having worked with the table now for a few months, i've found a few things to be most advantagous.
> The problem with the Milwaukee router surging seems to have gone away now. Whatever the problem was, seems to have corrected itself. Thank goodness!!!


Glad to hear things are working as planned. Not sure what the story is with the Milwaukee but glad it is all cleared up.

I have been really enjoying the Woodpecker lift too! I have yet to lift the router out of its slot. The Milwaukee really seems to be the beast everyone has said it was.

I am just wrapping up the lower custom cabinets for an A Frame house. Needless to say, no economies of replication in this scenario.

I hope to start the doors and the drawers in a couple of weeks. That should really give the router a true workout. I just upgraded to the Wonder Fence. Wanted something safer when doing the doors or using large bits in general.

Will keep you posted on how well it works.

Then maybe I can build a router table that rivals yours. I sure could use some dedicated storage space and a roll around solution. It is amazing how small a garage can get once a project is in full swing.

Happy Holidays to everyone!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey there Ken..

what really surprises me about the Milwaukee is just how quiet it is for a big router. I'm sure my cabinet has alot to do with sound deadening, but still...the thing is quieter than my smaller craftsman routers.. I just saw on ebay, someone has a new 5626 up for sale. this is the orginal with remote speed control. I havn't seen on up for sale in a very long time.. claims to be new none the less...
How you like the wonderfence? I've just played around with mine so far and find it to be great. 


Looking forward to watching you get your table started...


helps hoping you and the family have a great holiday!!


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Bill,

after having the problems you did, would you buy another. 

if my new router had problems with surging, i as a perfectionist would have taken it back. 
milwaukee has a brand name to uphold and sounds like you had a time of it.

i am not sure i would trust something that was surging to start with for the longhaul.

but im glad it starting acting normal.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Levon..

thats a good question, one in fact I asked myself several times when she was acting up. But I looked at it this way.. First I was commited to what I had. I didn't have money to go and get a PC or another Mil for that matter. The problem with the surging while still unknown seems to have been with the kit I put in to change it over in the first place, so I guess you could say it was my doing that casued the problems with the router. I have to admit my heart sank everytime she would wind down and start back up... For me, that was a ton of money into something that I "thought" would work..Not to mention having to explain why the RT was just sitting in my shop not getting used to the wife. But like I said, I dont' think it was the Milwaukee router as much as it was the "kit" I installed. I am however, extremely pleased with how things worked out in the end. The router runs just great, the speed adjustment works just great and I have yet been able to bog the thing down. Even with some hardmaple I've played with. 

So like they say, hindsite is 20/20. Knowing then, what I know now, would I do it over? 
The quick answer is yes. A fantastic learning experience. I'd like to think that the RT project turned out well and there isn't much I can't do with it now. 

And with the outlets I've added, it can actually make coffee for me in the mornings *LOL*

bill


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Bill,
i know you said you didnt have the money to buy another, but i would think that milwaukee would have as good a guarantee and pc or even craftsman? if not i would look for one with a guarantee.

just my 2 cents.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

levon said:


> hi Bill,
> i know you said you didnt have the money to buy another, but i would think that milwaukee would have as good a guarantee and pc or even craftsman? if not i would look for one with a guarantee.
> 
> just my 2 cents.



Levon.. 

well a couple of things come into play here.. 1st and foremost, is the fact that I bought the router off of ebay of of a private seller. not an authorized dealer. So I'm thinking (not certain though) that any warranty issues might have been a hassel. 2nd, is the fact that I opened up the router and played with its controls. Since the kits was not an authorized factory kit, I don't think Milwaukee or anyone for that matter would have warranteed the unit. When I broached the subject with a couple of Milwaukee dealers nearby i was kinda surprised to find that they were not ever aware that Milwaukee made a router with the remote setup, let alone an aftermarker setup. I do think that the kit I got was pretty much what Milwaukee used in the orginal version, less the external hardware. Were it just a router issue purchased off of a dealer/retailer I'm sure that just about any vendor would have been willing to resolve the problem, especially considering the price of the unit. 

Hence the perils of looking for deals/bargins etc. SOmetimes you gotta take a chance and go with whatcha got...


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Bill,

i see your problem. sometimes it takes a little while to sink in. 

at least it has seemingly corrected itself. 

i as a learning woodworker hope to be more aware of a product that has been altered or a kit that isnt from the factory. it has to be confusing.

i know there a so many times when ive said " why did i try to save money"


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Hey there Ken..
> 
> what really surprises me about the Milwaukee is just how quiet it is for a big router. I'm sure my cabinet has alot to do with sound deadening, but still...the thing is quieter than my smaller craftsman routers..



I have this router too and mine doesn't seem to be much quieter than my other routers..it just sounds different..sort of like a Ferrari alongside a Chevy 

I haven't experienced any of the surging issues you described..but I don't have the external speed control kit on mine either so that might have something to do with it?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> what really surprises me about the Milwaukee is just how quiet it is for a big router. I'm sure my cabinet has alot to do with sound deadening, but still...the thing is quieter than my smaller craftsman routers..
> Looking forward to watching you get your table started...
> 
> 
> helps hoping you and the family have a great holiday!!


It is quiet and it isn't just your cabinet. When I turn it on, my vacuum comes on at the same time. The vacuum is louder than the router when it is not making sawdust. I have yet to have to take two passes at anything. I always wanted a "dedicated" table router and the Milwaukee has been the best solution over any of my other routers. I also bought a Festool 1400EQ for hand held use. It was pricey but after having several PC's and a Craftsman (still works after 35 years but the bearings are getting noisy!!), I decided to step up the food chain this time around.

You have to own or use a Festool to truly appreciate the quality and the engineering that goes into them. I will never buy anything else from now on when it comes to a hand held plunge router.

Unfortunately, I have not had time to play with the Wonder Fence. I have been too busy with the kitchen but it is well made, has lots of features, and should make my woodworking safer when using larger bits. (I will give an update on the WF once I start making the drawers and doors. I will be using cope and stick bits with dovetails on the front drawers. The doors will have raised panels. Between these three techniques, I should have a much better idea if my investment in the WF was worth it.)

Maybe Santa will bring me the Infinity coping sled for Christmas????:jester:

I will keep you posted of any changes. Right now, I just want to finish this kitchen so I can do some things around the house for my wife and self. Now that I have upgraded, my wife has started making a honey do list and I have run out of excuses!!!!

Happy Holidays!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

gregW said:


> I have this router too and mine doesn't seem to be much quieter than my other routers..it just sounds different..sort of like a Ferrari alongside a Chevy
> 
> I haven't experienced any of the surging issues you described..but I don't have the external speed control kit on mine either so that might have something to do with it?


Greg...

You may have something there.. the comparision is a good one. AS for the surging issues, I'm convinced that it has everything to do with the kit I installed for remote speed control/on/off. I removed the kit on 3 seperate occasions to test the OE setup. and each time I didn't have a problem with the OE parts..

fortunetely in the end, everything has worked out just fine... life is good..


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Brad..

FESTOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLLLLLL....

I'm really wanting their orbital sander and vac combo kit!! The RT now collects what I'd say is problably about 95 percent of the dust I create on it. The TS does a good job as well as the rest of the stuff I use. Including the drum sander. But it amazes me how much dust my little dewalt creates and how poorly it collects it. BUT with that said, I don't think the model i have was really made for woodshop type work, considering the lame little dust back it comes with instead of a optional vac. port. I love the chips, the sawdust but that fine stuff can kill ya....


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

I almost pulled the trigger on their dust collection system but I decided to save my money for the Cyclone system instead.

Cyclone Dust Collection

I really need to get a handle on my dust collection. My masks work overtime!!!

I am not a Ryobi fan but their 8 port sanders have a dust collection port and have lasted longer than my DeWalt orbitals did.

The TS table is also on my list of things to do (storage and dust collection).

Happy Holidays!!!


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

The PC soft start and VS are not compatible with remote speed control, but can be used with a remote switch. You can easily wire around and remove the soft start module, then use a remote router speed control. I bought my big PC from a person who said one of the switched were bad. Ended up being the soft start module. It is a common problem. Ten minutes after finding the wiring diagram online it was as good as new, but w/o soft start.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Clouseau...

good stuff, i'm sure there are several in here that would find that information most interesting and usefull..


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Last week and a half, I've gotten several emails about the mit-r-slide on the incra fence. I think a few pictures is well worth several thousand words.. give or take a few *S*... Since there remains obvious interest in this project, I hope you folks dont' mind my just posting them for all to see.....

As you'll note, this rig works "WITH" the wonderfence installed. and would not work by itself with just the standard incra fence in place. However, working around that issue I don't think would be much of a problem. Mounting the larger bracket on the right behind with a spacer would probably do the trick. Mounted as shown, the pivot arm extends out over the work surface and would surely get in the way sooner or later. The mount on the left can easily be turned around and used in the same location. 

Thus far, it has remained true to the orginal setup. I've not had to adjust anything. I think since the unit is pretty much static at rest or while just using the fence this allows mounting points to stay tight.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Bill... Thank you.. I hadn't yet figured out how you'd done it. Now I've not got the pictures saved. Did all of that hardware come with the slide? If not, where did you get it? Curious minds, ya know? <g>


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Clouseau said:


> The PC soft start and VS are not compatible with remote speed control, but can be used with a remote switch. You can easily wire around and remove the soft start module, then use a remote router speed control. I bought my big PC from a person who said one of the switched were bad. Ended up being the soft start module. It is a common problem. Ten minutes after finding the wiring diagram online it was as good as new, but w/o soft start.


Would you please post the wiring diagram in the "Router Reference" forum? I have one of the big PC's and would love to see it... as will others.


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

Big Jim: Remove the blue wire from the "blue-white-white" bundle. Remove the two black wires from the ss module. Wire nut the two black wires togather.
I'll try to post the print. If not I'll try to find the link. I think I just Googled porter cable 7538 parts. It was at the very bottom of the parts diagram.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Ahh... I found it. I thought you might have the VS model, like I have. I checked out all of the 7518's, but no cigar. I'll check out the 7539 to see if it's there. Otherwise I can take the cap off mine to see if its the same. Thank you!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

BigJim...dude,, you need a shave!!! or a body wax!!! *S*

Everything came with the slide, except the 3 short pieces of miter trak I used, 2 for spacer left and right and the 3rd is the cheesy post on the right that i use to rest the miter fence on when not in use..

feeling like an Alaskan spring down here, low teen's/20's, 6"s of snow...dang, an actual winter! First we've had in quite a while...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I didn't know you were looking that closely, Bill.. :lol:

Ahh.. gotcha.. the 2 risers and the stop.. got it!

At 6:30 am this morning it was 32.. reached 35F.. now cooling off, into the upper 20's. Not bad from early January in the "cruel arctic north"! <g>


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

:sarcastic::lol::sarcastic::nhl_checking::haha:


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## ventura II (Nov 4, 2009)

*Questions on parts*

Twoskies57, I was wanting to do the same Milwaukee 5625 setup but the form that the original guy did is shut down...probably for money reasons. Do you have the part numbers that you used? I would probably go through my local milwaukee guys for the parts.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

ventura II said:


> Twoskies57, I was wanting to do the same Milwaukee 5625 setup but the form that the original guy did is shut down...probably for money reasons. Do you have the part numbers that you used? I would probably go through my local milwaukee guys for the parts.


Here is a motor only listing for the Milwaukee.

Wish I had done the same. I wound up buying the whole lot.

Milwaukee 5619-29 1 3/4 Max HP D-Handle Router Motor


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

ventura II said:


> Twoskies57, I was wanting to do the same Milwaukee 5625 setup but the form that the original guy did is shut down...probably for money reasons. Do you have the part numbers that you used? I would probably go through my local milwaukee guys for the parts.



John...I'm sure I got the parts numbers around somewhere, give me a day or so and I'll get em posted for you..

bill


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## ventura II (Nov 4, 2009)

Thanks Bill, I'm not in a hurry...but I did want to start on the set up for christmas.

John


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

ventura II said:


> Thanks Bill, I'm not in a hurry...but I did want to start on the set up for christmas.
> 
> John


John,,, here is the original piece that I got the idea from. It is very well written and illustrated. 

 Milwaukee 5625 Router conversion 

If you hadn't read the entire thread, after having upgraded my Milwaukee 5625 I ran into a problem with the router wanting to cut out after only running for a few seconds and then starting back up. Obviously not a good thing!!!! I contacted Day thinking perhaps I had gotten a defective EFM (electronic feedback module). The one thing I noticed was that the time between cutouts slowly began to increase for
whatever reason. After several days of going down and cycling the router on/off/on/off the problem finally disappeared!!! And she's been running just great ever since. The load control feature on the router is fantastic. Its handled everything I've thrown at it with flying colors. I think you'll be most pleased with what you end up with!!

and if you're looking to round out you're rig, Woodpecker/Jessem are closing out production on a couple of very nice Lifts. Several posts already in here regarding the pricing and so on.. Great deals to be had. 

hope this helps...

bill


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## ventura II (Nov 4, 2009)

Thanks Bill, the link worked. I'm not worried about the setup. I studied this thread and decided that what was going on was probably the electric setup ie. the voltage drop on the circuit. High hp motors when they don't get the required power on a line that doesn't support the amperage draw can do some weird things.

Thanks again 

John


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

John... I gotta let ya know, I was on a dedicated circuit at 119 volts when she was acting up. Ahh well, good luck with your rig, Let me know how she turns out and if I can be of any help...

Bill


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> here is the original piece that I got the idea from. It is very well written and illustrated.
> 
> Milwaukee 5625 Router conversion


Looks like they may have removed that post on woodnet. 
If you can find the part number for the new EFM & the model of router it comes from I should be able to figure it out.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Doug...

I tried to go back and see if i could find you the info you requested. Your right, woodnet has a 365 time out. So its now gone, I'm trying to contact the OP for the info. and a link to the tutorial he provided. It was excellent!! 

I'll go thru my receipts later and see what I can find as well. as for the router model. I modified a Milwaukee 5625. At the time the router I was looking for was a Jessem 0526. Which basically was the Mil. with Jessem's controls. I do see now that a couple guys out of Canada have been selling the orginal 05626 (with remote controls). I'm guessing they came across some new old stock....but expensive at 480.00

in the thread, I mention "Charles Day Co." as the provided of parts. I coulda swore they were out of Chicago, but a quick google comes up with Portland Oregon??? 

HTH..

Bill


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> I do see now that a couple guys out of Canada have been selling the orginal 05626 (with remote controls). I'm guessing they came across some new old stock....but expensive at 480.00


 Yea I found a Canadian supplier through Amazon’s Market Place that still had one of the JessEm/Milwaukee 5626 units on hand and they wanted $525 for it! I also doubled checked with Milwaukee & I was told that eve though the tool was brand-new in a sealed box, In-less it was from a authorized reseller there would be no warranty! 



TwoSkies57 said:


> as for the router model. I modified a Milwaukee 5625.


Yea that's what I want to do also using a 5625. I copied the diagram you posted before on the 5626-69 which I believe is the model of router that the new EFM comes from, But I'm not sure of the part#.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Doug...

well now, it seems that perhaps Milwaukee and Jessem resolved what ever differences they might of had. I found the customer service at Jessem to be outstanding and the couple of places I called about Milwaukee actually were not aware the router even existed. 

I just went back into the charles day co. website out of portland. Looked at the contact us page. this "is" the outfit that supplied me my parts. In fact, I spoke with Jim 
Allemand. I remember the guys picture. Nice folks! more than happy to help. At the time, they were having a run on these parts due to the how to sheet that was posted. 

give em a call at 888-697-8872 <<toll free>> let me know how ya made out

bill


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Doug...give em a call at 888-697-8872 <<toll free>> let me know how ya made out; bill


Thanks I will check with them & see what else I can figure out!

So far I was able to locate the EFM unit & I can get it through a local Milwaukee Dealer, Part# 14-20-0095.

I also came up with the wiring diagram for the control unit but I haven't been able to locate the replacement switch or Potentiometer Assembly. If “Need Be” I could figure it out & just use parts from a local electronics store, But it will be easier with the correct replacement parts.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Doug...

where in the world did you find those files? Man,, I looked high and low when I was doing mine and came up empty...*L*...did Milwaukee repost them? 

anyways...Its kinda hard to tell, but if I had to say, I'd say the ECM, potentiometer and power switch are pretty much what I got. Once you get ready to get going, let me know, If it will help, I'll take the router out, open her up (due for a good cleaning anyways) and take a few pics for ya. The only issue with wiring was being careful not to pinch one of the wires. otherwise, it was pretty straight forward.


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> where in the world did you find those files? Man,, I looked high and low when I was doing mine and came up empty...*L*...did Milwaukee repost them?


Got it through Google by using the part# 14-20-0095 that was on the diagram you posted on page 6


TwoSkies57 said:


> anyways...Its kinda hard to tell, but if I had to say, I'd say the ECM, potentiometer and power switch are pretty much what I got. Once you get ready to get going, let me know, If it will help,


I talked to Jim at Charles Day Co, (Thanks for his name) He knew exactly what I was looking for! He couldn't remember everything that was used either. But we came up with the ECM, Potentiometer Assy,
Power Cable (from ECM to Potentiometer) He wasn't sure about the Milwaukee switch but said he's sure he could find one that would work. 


TwoSkies57 said:


> I'll take the router out, open her up (due for a good cleaning anyways) and take a few pics for ya


 No need to do that I'm sure I can figure it out! Plus I probably wouldn’t be doing this for a few months anyway. If your going to be cleaning it & opening her up anyway, I posted a couple of links in the “Reference Forum” that I found on replacing the bearings & brushes.

Thanks for all your help!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Good luck to ya Doug...let us know how you make out...

bill


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

TwoSkies57,

Thanks for this thread. I am getting a router that sounds like the electronic speed control might be going out (router was slowing down, then stopped). I was wanting to do the mod so it would be external anyway. Might be shooting some more questions when it arrives.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

You're quite welcome Randall..


It be best to determine just exactly why the router your getting "stopped" on you... then look at the options from there. 

bill


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

TwoSkies57 said:


> You're quite welcome Randall..
> 
> 
> It be best to determine just exactly why the router your getting "stopped" on you... then look at the options from there.
> ...


I have posted what I believe to be the problem (found others with same router and problems), and while I have a working model of that router, I would rather not take it apart (with my luck the good one would short). I am hoping that dwall174 will pop back in with what he bought/found out (can't pm yet) and then I order the parts if it eliminated the defective part. Then I transfer the one with the external speed controller into the lift, and place the other on the SSRK. (EZ smart stuff)

Thanks


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

I have a Milwaukee 5616-20, 2-1/2 HP I bought specifically for my router table. It (the router) has above the table height setting and seems to be very precise. I am still working on my table and should have it finished by tomorrow except for the finish. It has a Woodpeckers table top and insert drilled specifically for the Milwaukee 5615 & 5616 routers and the Woodpeckers Pro Fence. Haven't used it yet so I can't give any info on how it performs.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Ken...

Sounds like you've put together a great setup. Once you get her up and running and have a few boards under your belt, if you wouldn't mind, let us know what you think of the setup. Folks around here are always looking for first hand reports on products. 

I can't say enough about Woodpeckers products/sales and service. Great bunch of folks to deal with...

good luck with your new rig..

bill


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## jcr3 (Mar 12, 2011)

HI. I too have a large router table with two routers, each on a Woodpecker lift. I use my PC router with smaller bits, and the Milwaukee with my larger bits. I bought both setups 3 years ago, and love them. I cant remember which model # the Milwaukee is but it was the biggest they sold at the time, and it does have variable speed. My only gripe is that the Milwaukee broke with less than 1 hour on it, but it was replaced immediately at no charge, and the 2nd has worked fine ever since. I assume by "remote" switch that youre not talking about a wireless remote since Ive never seen one, but then again I havnt looked for one or needed that since I have two separate switches mounted on the front of my router table that control each router just perfect! My .02


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey John..

Nooooooooo.. *S*.. remote is merely having the variable speed control and they on/off switches located remotely, away from the router. I don't have to reach in under the table to turn my unit on/off or set my speed. I love it. but its certainly not required or necessary.. more a convenience I was willing to pay a little extra for..


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

All right, some days you win. The router was bought on Ebay, and the symptoms listed I had read before. I tracked down where I had read them, and they also had the reset procedure listed. Well, the reset procedure is effectively the same as removing the bit and turning off for three seconds or more (in this case, the time it took for me to receive it). Worked out of the box, tags tore up (effectively no warranty) and under $40; so I have no problem modifying it.
So Bill, I have some questions:

I read you had surging/starting problems, but they seemed to go away after some house rewiring. Have they stayed away?
What about cleaning/waxing the PRL2? What have you found that works best for you?
Did you ever take the wiring pictures? Could you post or send me them?
What about the switch you used, could you just have only used the switch here:









Or are both required like I think they are?

Going to be calling Charles Day next week (my next weekend).

Thanks!:thank_you2:

EDIT: Can't post the link to a picture in this thread, yet.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Randall..

Yes, I did have problems with the Milwaukee "surging". essentially I believe the unit was going into shutdown and then would catch. Run a short while and then do it again, Repeating this cycle over and over. It was like it was being turned off and then back on. I can't really say I found what was the problem. After a while the time between surges increased and eventually stopped altogether. At first I put the old controls back into the unit and she would run fine. This lead/s me to believe that the problem was with the ECM. Its been well over a year and a half now and she's runs solid. No problems at all. Can I have a Amen brother!! 

It was suggested that perhaps I was not getting proper voltage to the unit. However, I checked and was getting somewhere like 119v off of a dedicated circuit. So that pretty much eliminated that consideration. 

AS far as cleaning goes I have yet to put anything on the lift columns. I basically use compressed air a couple times a month to give everything a good cleaning. I pull the entire unit, router and lift out and just blast away. I hit the micro adjuster and router as well while at it. So far so good. Someone posted a few days ago about problems they were having with their PRV2. I can honestly say the only complaint I have which is a very minor one is that there is a bit of slop when adjusting the micro adjuster when you first go to turn the wheel. I put in a digital height readout so I really never even attempt to read the adjuster. Gotta love technology *L*

You can absolutely use only one switch. I put in the other as a means to stop the router when working from the side of the table with just a bump from my knee. Nothing more than a personnel preference, certainly not required. The 'hanger' you see next to the switch is for hanging the Incra rig when I'm using the tabletop for 
assemblies or pocket hole work. Keeps it out of the way. 

I hadn't taken any pictures yet. The Mrs. is out of town for a couple of days and she has the camera with her. When she gets back, I'll make it a point to take a few pictures of the wiring for you Give me a good excuse to take the top off and give it a good blast of air.. 




LinuxRandal said:


> So Bill, I have some questions:
> 
> I read you had surging/starting problems, but they seemed to go away after some house rewiring. Have they stayed away
> 
> ...


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

Well an update for anyone considering this in the future. I've talked to Mike, the first one who hacked his router, then Casey, the Woodnet poster, that was mentioned early on. The EFM for in the router speed adjustment is a different part number from the one for the external speed controller. This is the brains of the thing, and from what I am finding only, quite possibly a discontinued part. (people either don't show it, or it shows up as no longer a valid number)

EDIT: After some more back and forth, it looks like this may have been a fat fingered thing (typo's) when looking for the parts. He has got back to me with prices and availability.


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

LinuxRandal said:


> I am hoping that dwall174 will pop back in with what he bought/found out


Sorry I didn't get back to you! I must have missed your post! 

I haven't done the conversion yet! Just getting the information needed. I've been looking around for a reconditioned or used 5625 that I can do the conversion on, I also found out that the complete controller # 23-35-0175 is now available through Milwaukee. 
Here's part of an E-Mail I got back from Milwaukee Tools;
The 23-35-0175 Control Box and individual service replacement parts are now available for purchase through your local Milwaukee Dealer or by calling our 1- 800- Sawdust line ( 1-800-729-3878) for additional information. mailto:[email protected] 

Hope this helps
Doug


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

dwall174 said:


> Sorry I didn't get back to you! I must have missed your post!
> 
> I haven't done the conversion yet! Just getting the information needed. I've been looking around for a reconditioned or used 5625 that I can do the conversion on, I also found out that the complete controller # 23-35-0175 is now available through Milwaukee.
> Here's part of an E-Mail I got back from Milwaukee Tools;
> ...


Ordered the parts, with the exception of the toggle switch (it is back ordered till June). 
23-35-0175 Control Box
I wasn't able to find that part number online, most places, connected with a router. Doesn't mean it isn't but comes up as a controller for another tool. (no point in risking it since mainly the control housing is the only thing missing and that can be made easily). My calculations show $121.00 before shipping, so this is a relatively inexpensive project.

I really am thankful to you all for your help. I saw this project two years ago, and couldn't justify modifying a new/warrantied router at that time. Since picking up one (working) inexpensively, I have NO problem doing it.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Randall...

I dont' think you'll regret having made the modification. I know I sure didn't. 

Been a bit under the weather lately, so i must apologize for not having followed up quickly on some of this. I am however, attempting to rebirth the original thread at the other site. Folks over there are pretty much like here, very helpfull. 

If that fails, I'll continue to search for my receipt. I KNOW i didn't throw it out. but dang if I know where i put it.  I may not be much help for you boys, but hopefully it'll say someone down the road alot of leg work...I'm looking forward to hear how things work out for you guys, Randall/Doug. 

bill


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Randall...
> 
> I dont' think you'll regret having made the modification. I know I sure didn't.
> 
> ...



Between this post. Contacting Mike (the ORIGINAL person, who did the mod by CUTTING INTO the controller), Casey (the original poster from Woodnet) and Doug, I believe I have ALL the documentation, that is out there on it. I need to burn backups of it, as I had the webpages from Woodnet saved on an old pc that died (mech failure).


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> I am however, attempting to rebirth the original thread at the other site.


Sending a PM with more info that may help with the rebirth!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

*Milwaukee EFM for 5625*

Well, I finally went and took the top off of my router, with the hopes of getting a little more information out there to you guys. The EFM did have some numbers on it and I hope it helps: 

METCO
20 07 14 20 0095 REV. 1

the following are a few pictures of what it looks like. It's all pretty straight forward stuff. 

This is the Milwaukee 5625 that I converted









Removing the Top is a matter of undoing 4 screws, a single screw holds the EFM in place


















Lifting the EFM off of the shaft, 3 clip connections and the 3 wire connector









The EFM removed

























Part of the EFM actually replaces the OEM speed controller with a solid blank









When assembling, be careful to not pinch this wire. 









I apologize for some the quality of some of the pictures, not sure what went on..and i am definitely NOT a photographer.....


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Well, I finally went and took the top off of my router, with the hopes of getting a little more information out there to you guys. The EFM did have some numbers on it and I hope it helps:
> 
> METCO
> 20 07 14 20 0095 REV. 1
> ...


Thanks for the pic's bill !
Just to up-date anyone checking out this info at this point of the thread here's the wiring instructions for the New EFM (Electronic Feedback Module) that TwoSkies57 posted back on page 6 part #14-20-0095


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

And here's the wiring info on the original EFM that comes with the 5625-20 Milwaukee Router! part #14-20-0050


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Thanks for the PDF's Doug!!!!! 

not sure why the stuff you pm'd about won't post yet... 

I'll keep at it..


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Just a little sidebar here...

I've made it a pretty good habit to use compressed air and clean off the lift and router pretty regularly! Maybe once every two weeks or so since I'm not constantly using the table. After taking off the top earlier today, I was surprised at just how much sawdust had collected inside. Definitely going to spend more time cleaning this thing up thoroughly now that I see just how dirty it can get.


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

About trying to post the stuff he sent you, I believe it is in zipped format, and must be unzipped before you can copy it here. (there could also be size issues, but as a mod I am sure your aware of that)

I have copies of the 4 pages from Woodnet, from Casey if you want them.

Now about the don't pinch wire, did you cut a notch for it to fit in, or how did you handle it?

Everything but the power (toggle) switch, and that hunk of metal that the parts fit in, I've ordered. The toggle switch is back ordered (should be able to find one that works), and I can't see close to $100 for that aluminum.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Randal, yes indeed if you have them, you can either post them here, giving Casey credit or just send em to me and I'll get em up. As with you and Doug, there seems to be an ongoing interest in how to do this. 

AS for pinching the wire, there was/is a small notch already in place, you just have to make sure to use it. 

The toggle switch I used is a simple standard on/off shop switch with the plastic keyed lockout. but any 2 wire on/off will work I believe. 

Hunk of metal the parts fit in?? 100.00 for aluminum?? 

What did you end up getting as a speed controller?


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Randal, yes indeed if you have them, you can either post them here, giving Casey credit or just send em to me and I'll get em up. As with you and Doug, there seems to be an ongoing interest in how to do this.
> 
> AS for pinching the wire, there was/is a small notch already in place, you just have to make sure to use it.
> 
> ...


I will forward you the Email, please pm me your email address (large files). Files sizes are 2.32mb, 6.71mb, 5.69mb, and 4.51mb, and I don't know about any rules here since this could deal with copyright issues.
The wire is good to know, as the original post, he tore some insulation off of it, and made it sound like the notch was not the correct size.
The toggle switch has four prongs on it, however I am 90% sure that two of them are for the lockout switch (kind of why I would like one, so I don't have to kill power to that area, if nieces/nephews over). I may hide a second switch for safety sake then.

I ordered all the parts, as stated, EXCEPT the switch, and the machined aluminum they show in the pdf's you have. The machined, U channel, they have the parts (switch, external speed controller) mounted in, it is part number 23-37-0175. In the email Doug sent you was the price. I can build a mounting box, out of free scrap metal from a machinist friend (just dig through his recycle stuff), rather then spend the money for that.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

PM has been sent with email, thank Randal. I don't believe any copyright issues will arise, but I will none the less, contact Casey and ask for his permission and of course give him due credit for all of this. 

OK, I follow you now on the machines box. Wasn't sure what you were referring to earlier. 

You've got to be getting anxious to get this put together by now?...


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

Doug and I read the email he received from Milwaukee, about the control box quite differently. I sent an email back to who he talked to, for clarification, and will post any correction if needed.
I also had a hankering and a quick 30 second search, found a switch which looks quite similar, Grizzly H8239.

I doubt Casey will have any issues with it being reposted (probably prefer it to all of us asking him over the years), but don't know about Woodnet either (TOS or anything). Plus trying to shrink it, since I don't have a digital camera (had two stolen), I haven't had need or experience with that.

Thanks again all.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Dang Randal... you're one helluva researcher. The Grizzly switch is pretty much it.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

*A much deserved THANKS for a few folks*

Before proceeding any further, I'd like to give some credit where credit is do about this point. First I'd like to say thanks to Casey again over at Woodnet for having contrived this whole thing. He's the guy who came up with this particular conversion over 2 years ago and judging by the continued interest in this particular thread, he must have done something right...
Then lately, I'd like to say thanks to LinuxRandal and Dewall174 for having done so much leg work in finding and then getting a copy of Casey's original post in Woodnet. 
I'm going to repost most of the original pics and info so that we will have it on hand for the next guy/gal who wants to take this on. 
Then just a general big thanks to everyone who has contributed, pm'd, email thoughts or comments in a positive way. 

bill


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

*Conversion Components:*

here is a list of the original parts used to convert the Milwaukee 5625 into a fully functional remote controlled variable speed unit:

Parts were orginally ordered from:
<<<some may or may not still be available>>>

Charles H. Day Co.
602 SE 11th Ave. 
Portland Or. 97214
index

14-20-0095 ELECTRONIC FEEDBACK MODULE $39.85 USD (Speed Controller)
23-18-0075 KNOB SPEED DIAL $2.20 USD
23-66-0155 SWITCH PADDLE W/LOCKOUT $6.10 USD
22-64-0445 CORD SET ASSY $9.60 USD
23-33-0505 RECEPTACLE POT ASSY $21.45 USD
22-64-0400 CABLE POWER CONTROL $15.60 USD
06-57-5020 Lock nut $1.30

*
The EFM, Knob speed dial and Switch paddle assemblies*








*Backside of EFM, Knob speed dial and Switch Paddle Assemblies*








*Cable power control*








*Cord Set assembly*








*Receptacle pot assembly*


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

*Milwaukee 5625 conversion: removing the top*

Ok guys, I think I'm going to do this in multiple posts. Hats off to those guys who go in and do it this way rather than load up the main with a bunch of pictures. First is pretty straight forward, just removing the top: 
There are 4 torx25 screws that hold the top in place (a flat blade screwdriver will work)and I think its a torx20 that holds the height adjuster knob in place


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

*Removing the old Electronic feedback module*

The next series of pictures describe what to look for and how to go about removing the old EFM (electronic feedback module)
Once you’ve got the top off, you’ll see the controller. You need a T20 bit, or a flat head screw driver, to unhook it and free it from the router. You’ll also use the same bit to pull the hold down that holds the power cord in place. You can take note of the locations of the wiring…you’ll be reusing the connections on the main router body.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

*Installing the control cable*

At this point you should have the EFM and the power cord removed from the router. Next is to install the new control cable.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

*Installing the EFM*

your getting close....

Now connect the neutral (white) power wire to the bottom of the new speed controller – it will be the only large male plug


































*finished controller in place*


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

*finishing up*

its all downhill from here.. just put the top back on


















from here, you need to decide on locations for your speed control and on/off paddle. You may be limited by the design of your table as to where you can mount the controls so be sure to think this out before doing any mods to your table.


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

There is a lock nut, that from the outside appears to be a standard 1/2" conduit nut. It isn't and Casey was lucky enough to find one that worked from a project some years ago. He also listed (page two I believe) a Radio Shack switch that used the same nut. However, the switch is more then the nut itself if you order it with the parts, at the same time. The lock nut is item 06-57-5020 and is $1.30. This holds the cord to the box.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

thanks Randal,,

I'll add it to the parts list


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

LinuxRandal said:


> Doug and I read the email he received from Milwaukee, about the control box quite differently. I sent an email back to who he talked to, for clarification, and will post any correction if needed.


You brought up some questions that made me re-think my interpretation of the e-mail, And it wouldn't be the first time I miss read something.

So I called Mike Schleuse at Milwaukee Tools & also their 1- 800- Sawdust line (1-800-729-3878) And I confirmed that the control box part # 23-37-0175 is a complete assembly. 
Mike informed me that because JessEm is no longer offering the 5626-68 that these control box assemblies are now available through Milwaukee. He also let me know that there's only 20 of these left in stock & once their gone that's it. 

Even though I don't have the router yet I don't want to lose out on the complete assembly so I went ahead & ordered the Control Box, EFM, & Power Control Cable.


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

So you mean 19 left in stock? LOL

Good to know, as I haven't heard back from him yet.


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

Just to update the information on the controller # 23-37-0175, I got my order from Milwaukee the other day & the control box is the complete set-up that was sold with the JessEm/Milwaukee 5626-68.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Doug... complete set up? paddle, speed control, EFM and wiring???? If so, thats not a bad deal at all! I can't imagine these lasting very long. Let us know how your overhaul goes..

bill


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

The control box assembly is complete as shown! I still needed to get the new power control cable & the EFM. The total came to $182.85 which included $10.35 for tax. There was a mess-up on their shipping so I wasn't charged any shipping charges. 

Since you did your conversion the price of making Sawdust Went Up:moil:

Milwaukee's prices 
The control box #23-37-0175 was $97.90 
Power Control Cable part #22-64-0400 was $26.80 
EFM (Electronic Feedback Module) part #14-20-0095 was $47.80 

I'm still keeping my eye out for a used or reconditioned 5625! Just don't like the idea of converting a new unit & loosing the warranty.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Doug... I got to agree with ya, converting one and loosing the warranty would be a bit chancey. The good news is, if you keep all the old parts you an put her back together. I picked mine up on the bay for a couple hundred so I had no warranty to loose. Have you tried looking up a local shop for a recon? I'll keep an eye out for ya, If I run across something you might be interested in.. I'll drop you a note..Patience always pays off...but dang, dont' ya hate to wait...


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Have you tried looking up a local shop for a recon?


Yea I have several local tool stores watching out for a recon for me. 


TwoSkies57 said:


> Patience always pays off...but dang, don't ya hate to wait...


 Gives me time to work on a new home for the 5625 
I'm currently only using a Incra plate with a Bosch EVS1617 that’s in my table saw extension. So a new lift is also on the watch list! Either a Incra/JessEm Mast-R-Lift ll or a Incra/Woodpecker PRL-V2.


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

Bpbj3 has geven you the answer. Ask around for a used PC with the soft start gone bad. Just remove the module and add the 20 amp remote and you have a wood eating machine. The wiring schematic for the PC soft start is available on this site in the manual section: http://www.routerforums.com/porter-cable/19050-parts-wiring-pc-7538-a.html


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Thanks for the input Daniel,,, but this one has been pretty much figured out


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

I didn't notice the thread was 17 pages long. Sorry for the late input. I have been away for a while.
Dan


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## Dyna (Aug 26, 2011)

TwoSkies57 said:


> greetings all... here is my situation: I've built a custom router table, invested in top of the line accessories blah, blah, blah.. but as of yet, still have not purchased a router. I would idealy want to have remote control (outside of the router box portion of the cabinet) of router motor speed. Right now, the only production router i can find that allows for this is the Milwaukee 5625 sold as a package with remote varialble speed control. This package has reviewed very well and certainly isn't a bad consideration, however, I'd like to know of any other options. From what I've read, the big PC's and Milwaukee's with soft start and VS will not allow for a 'remote' motor speed controller. I've read through the forum and could not find anything that answered my questions, so i figure go straight to the experts..thanks in advance for any assistance...


Well ...same for me..I hope from member can answer from this question...I will so to learn about it


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## sligogerry (Mar 2, 2013)

*router wiring*

hi Guys i am new to this and i have just built a router table but the router i have you have to hold Down the switch to keep it on. a zip tie or elastic wont Work because the switch is countersunk . Is it possible to wire direct to an off/on switch side- mounted on the table or ?, any ideas thanks


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Welcome aboard N/a.

Anything is possible, but without knowing what you have there's no real way to answer the question. Model of router needs to be known. If you complete your profile with other tools/experience available--the good people here will be better equipped to respond.

good luck!!

earl


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Yes, you can bypass the switch in your routers handle. What model router is it?

Even when using an external switch we unplug every time we change bits or make adjustments. Safety first.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

sligogerry said:


> hi Guys i am new to this and i have just built a router table but the router i have you have to hold Down the switch to keep it on. a zip tie or elastic wont Work because the switch is countersunk . Is it possible to wire direct to an off/on switch side- mounted on the table or ?, any ideas thanks



Welcome to the forum. If you complete your profile to tell us what make/model router you have, we will be able to help you.

A first name helps to make this a friendly place, but some members appear afraid to give the forum a name.


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Doug... complete set up? paddle, speed control, EFM and wiring???? If so, thats not a bad deal at all! I can't imagine these lasting very long. Let us know how your overhaul goes..


Just bringing this old thread back up.:lazy:
After getting all the parts together (with Bill's help) I never managed to pick up a used 5625 & install the conversion kit! 

Going to post the conversion kit in the Classified section.
Here's a link to the conversion kit.
http://www.routerforums.com/woodworking-classifieds/52569-milwaukee-5625-conversion-kit.html

Doug


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## tbeaulieu (Jun 18, 2010)

I have a habit of learning just enough to solve a problem and moving on. I bought the mentioned Milwaukee about a year ago on ebay. Good luck finding one. They haven't been made for a couple of years now. You can probably still get the OEM parts to make the controller yourself. My vague understanding is that a bolt on voltage limiter is nowhere near as good as modulating the motor with pulse modulation. A good router with VS will maintain the same speed as the load changes because the controller has RPM feedback and actively adjusts. A bolt on can't do that. At the time I researched them a bit and asked a couple of friends who are much more knowledgeable about electrical concepts.

BTW I absolutely love my router and the external speed control. I made my absolute dream router table set up with the Incra LS Positioner, Incra top, Incra Clean Sweep dust hood, Incra base and a custom cabinet installed into the base. I built a custom template strip drawer, as well. Every time I use my table it brings me pleasure.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Todd... just so the readers are clear, the conversion kit that Doug has is a "factory" kit. Converts a 5625 to what amounts to the discontinued 5626. I'm sure you'd agree a great router. Mine has handled everything I've thrown at it in 5 years without a problem. 
While researching my router, the 5626 was not available any longer. Jess-em had said they were looking into reintroducing it at a later date. I suspect by now, that later date has come and gone. Occasionally I'll see one on ebay (5626). 

Great looking table btw...


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Hey Todd... just so the readers are clear, the conversion kit that Doug has is a "factory" kit. Converts a 5625 to what amounts to the discontinued 5626. I'm sure you'd agree a great router. Mine has handled everything I've thrown at it in 5 years without a problem.
> While researching my router, the 5626 was not available any longer. Jess-em had said they were looking into reintroducing it at a later date. I suspect by now, that later date has come and gone. Occasionally I'll see one on ebay (5626).
> 
> Great looking table btw...


Makes it hard to recommend a manufacture sometimes. What they build five years ago has no relation to what\how they are made today. I think we both bought our Milwaukees at the same time and like you, have run thousands of board feet through it and it runs as well now as the day I bought it.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

As often as not, its all about doing your homework. It seems that it is more often a matter of the "product" not fitting the "purpose" rather than product failure. My rule of thumb has always been, overbuild. I don't believe in working something to death or pushing its limits all the time. I have a 12" bandsaw sitting in my shop right now that will attest to just how well pushing the limits works. :no::no::no: I don't know that a big PC, Bosch or Triton would work as well as our Milwaukee's, but thats just it, I dont know. They are all outstanding products. So many choices, so little time :smile:
As our skills and projects evolve, quite often the demands on our equipment evolve with them. Ya just gotta go with the flow or make due one way or another. I'm always looking at what our members come up with to meet a given challenge. Doesn't matter if its equipment or techniques or design concepts. Take your template drawer for example. To me, thats just an exceptional idea. Brilliantly designed, beautifully executed and fully functional. Its all there in one package. Very cool stuff if you ask me. Some prefer form over function, others function over form. I like it when one compliments the other.


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> just so the readers are clear, the conversion kit that Doug has is a "factory" kit. Converts a 5625 to what amounts to the discontinued 5626. I'm sure you'd agree a great router. Mine has handled everything I've thrown at it in 5 years without a problem.(5626).





timbertailor said:


> I think we both bought our Milwaukees at the same time and like you, have run thousands of board feet through it and it runs as well now as the day I bought it.


Yeah the Milwaukee 5625 seems like a great router, In-fact I looked for a used one (for the kit conversion) for about a year & never found one at a good price. I ended up selling the "Factory Kit" since I don't really use a table mounted router that much. My Bosch 1617EVS dual base set-up does everything I need.

Doug


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

dwall174 said:


> Yeah the Milwaukee 5625 seems like a great router, In-fact I looked for a used one (for the kit conversion) for about a year & never found one at a good price. I ended up selling the "Factory Kit" since I don't really use a table mounted router that much. My Bosch 1617EVS dual base set-up does everything I need.
> 
> Doug



You'd be hard pressed to find much in the way of complaints when it comes to the Bosch line of routers in here...:smile:


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

I lucked out at my local flea market and found a non-working PC 895pk for $80.00 as opposed to the $540.00 retail price or $245.00 on Amazon. Turns out the plunge base had never been out of the case and the router was like New except it would not start. I posed a question in this forum and the response was a diagram on how to wire around the slow start function. I did just that and installed the router in my table with a remote speed controller. I have it mounted in a Woodpecker table with a Woodpecker super fence and the Woodpecker aluminum plate and as such it is not unlike a high dollar lift in functionality. In my opinion the slow start function is figment of somebody's imagination to begin with because the router is up to full speed in a fraction of a second. 

To top it all off I sold the plunge base for $100.00


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Ken Bee said:


> I lucked out at my local flea market and found a non-working PC 895pk for $80.00 as opposed to the $540.00 retail price or $245.00 on Amazon. Turns out the plunge base had never been out of the case and the router was like New except it would not start. I posed a question in this forum and the response was a diagram on how to wire around the slow start function. I did just that and installed the router in my table with a remote speed controller. I have it mounted in a Woodpecker table with a Woodpecker super fence and the Woodpecker aluminum plate and as such it is not unlike a high dollar lift in functionality. In my opinion the slow start function is figment of somebody's imagination to begin with because the router is up to full speed in a fraction of a second.
> 
> To top it all off I sold the plunge base for $100.00


Sounds like a score to me.

Got any pictures?


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## tbeaulieu (Jun 18, 2010)

Slow start may not be a big deal in a table, but for hand mount it's nice.

Also, it's cool.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

tbeaulieu said:


> Slow start may not be a big deal in a table, but for hand mount it's nice.
> 
> Also, it's cool.


I do believe thats the whole reason behind soft-start, hand held routing..


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

well done...
on all fronts...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Great job on your router table build Todd , and thanks for sharing 

One question . The last picture with that drawer that has a section that lifts up , what is in there as they look like little paper tabs or something ?


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## tbeaulieu (Jun 18, 2010)

Those are templates that slide into the Incra LS Positioner fence system. A book has many patterns for through and blind dovetails, double dovetails and box joints. After selecting the appropriate pattern you use the corresponding template. That drawer houses a laminated block of PVC that I routed slots into so I can store and organize the templates ordered numerically. It works awesome, I must say. I got the idea from someone else and tweaked the design a little. I absolutely L O V E the Incra!

Looks like I'm not allowed to post the url. haha.


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## Tim Brennan (Mar 30, 2020)

Greetings all. I came across this thread in my online searches. I am a novice woodworker and I am in the process of building a router table soon. I thought of having a remote speed control would be really great and that led me here. I spent the last day researching this and it appears that not only is the 5626 Jessem model abandoned, Milwaukee no longer supplies either the full kit or the individual parts as listed by the great work done by members in this thread. Does anyone still have a spare kit laying around or know of any other factory designed solution? Seems like a no brainer to me, why wouldn't Milwaukee offer this for their workhorse router!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Million dollar question.
Hey, Tim; welcome!
Variations of that get asked here a LOT, on many different manufacturers and tools. As 'Stick' says (frequently), "Follow the money".


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

Tim Brennan said:


> Seems like a no brainer to me, why wouldn't Milwaukee offer this for their workhorse router!


Probably due to the price! 

When you consider the price of the kit like the *One That I Sold*  a few years ago, And the cost of the 5625. Most hobbyists would not want to spend that much.

BTW
Welcome To The Forum :dance3: 

Doug


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## Tim Brennan (Mar 30, 2020)

That's unfortunate. The parts without the housing were reasonable IMO and it's something that not a single other manufacturer offers or has offered. I would have thought there would be more demand for it than I guess there was. I sent a msg off to Milwaukee about it but I'm sure nothing will come of it. Maybe I need to start a side business! Lol. Thanks for the welcome and feedback guys!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Tim it could have been discontinued because of lack of demand. I recall a thread a few years ago about someone looking for a special bit that CMT had manufactured that he couldn`t find one of. Someone contacted CMT about it and found that they had only sold 3 of them all of that year across all of North America. It was understandable then why they weren`t inclined to start a new run of them.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

The original soft start/variable speed unit was actually a Milwaukee motor coupled with a Jess-em control unit and offered as a package by Jess-em. This package is what I was originally trying to acquire. I found that it was no longer available back then. I did find a work around that involved a Milwaukee router and a retrofit kit offered by a company out of Chicago that was for all intents and purposes the exact same package that Jess-em was offering. Long story short, aside from a surging type issue early on, the conversion has been fantastic. Working flawlessly for going on 10 years or so. The Milwaukee router is a work horse and continues to handle everything I throw at it and the controls continue to work as designed. I'd do it again in a heartbeat if parts were available. Which I do not believe they are.....

Now,,,Jess-em had indeed put a newer version of the original package back on the market. ("HAD" put out a new version, I can not find it on their website). 










Pretty much a modern version of the original configuration, now with a digital LED readout.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

here is the "Jess-Em" product ad: 










again, I'm not sure if its currently being offered.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TwoSkies57 said:


> here is the "Jess-Em" product ad:
> 
> again, I'm not sure if its currently being offered.


According to Pattie, some time back, at JessEm C/S, well over 400 units have been sold w/ little to no complaints...
there have been units that burned up and the cause was proven to be a lack of motor ventilation...
their status. I'm looking into it...


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