# miter slot necessary?



## dgave (Aug 24, 2010)

I noticed that the Bill Hylton, in his book on router tables, said that a miter slot on the table top is "completely unnecessary." I'm fairly new to table-mounted routing (also I've been a woodworker for many years) and I've already used a miter gauge to cut dadoes in small pieces. (The first thing I learned was that you really have to told the workpiece tight to the miter gauge because the cut wants to wander.)

I'd be interested to hear other router-users' thoughts on the necessity or non-necessity of the miter slot and miter gauge.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Mr. Hylton is correct. 
A properly constructed sled with, a clamp or two, (some don't even use one clamp) riding against the fence is a far safer option for cutting dados or end profiles such as cope and stick.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

not needed


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

As one who learned router use first from the Router Workshop TV series, in my opinion, a miter slot is useless.


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## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

I have no miter slot on my router table....


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

I use mine for holding featherboards


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Like others before me, no miter slot in my table. No need. Straight edges on the table top. Straight fence. 

Cassandra


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

dgave said:


> I noticed that the Bill Hylton, in his book on router tables, said that a miter slot on the table top is "completely unnecessary." I'm fairly new to table-mounted routing (also I've been a woodworker for many years) and I've already used a miter gauge to cut dadoes in small pieces. (The first thing I learned was that you really have to told the workpiece tight to the miter gauge because the cut wants to wander.)
> 
> I'd be interested to hear other router-users' thoughts on the necessity or non-necessity of the miter slot and miter gauge.


Hi David - 
Do I need a miter slot - NO
Did I want a miter slot - YES
I got in the habit of using the miter slot on the table and the t-slot in the fence to attach featherboards and other devices that when I tried using a table without one, I found it frustrating and immediately put one in. Haven't actually used it with a miter guage though.


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

I'm with Warren and John, for featherboard use.

When possible, I like to have featherboards before during and after the cut.

I also use them attached to the fence for downward pressure, but that has nothing to do with a miter slot. :"^)

Mike


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

I built My own table, and I did not want one, and I am glad I didn't


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## dgave (Aug 24, 2010)

Thanks for all the responses. I guess my thinking in the woodshop has been so centered on the table saw for so many years that I just naturally assumed that a miter slot was as important on the router table as it is on the table saw.


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## radio_davio (Apr 28, 2011)

Newbie here: I'm at the beginning of the slow process of acquiring pieces and building a table so I can make cabinet doors and such. My design has a combo/miter track, but have not cut the slot for it yet.

Without a miter, how would someone make edge cuts on the ends of stile and rail frame pieces? There was mention above about using a sled. Couldn't a miter with two scrap wood pieces and clamps make a sled?

Some day I'll make sawdust, but not today...


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

radio_davio said:


> Newbie here: I'm at the beginning of the slow process of acquiring pieces and building a table so I can make cabinet doors and such. My design has a combo/miter track, but have not cut the slot for it yet.
> 
> Without a miter, how would someone make edge cuts on the ends of stile and rail frame pieces? There was mention above about using a sled. Couldn't a miter with two scrap wood pieces and clamps make a sled?
> 
> Some day I'll make sawdust, but not today...


Hi Dave - I just use a large push block, about 10 x 10 x 3 inches. It actually isn't a solid block It's two 1x3's joined at a 90* angle with a triangular piece of plywood to reinforce the angle. I clamp a piece of scrap to one face to control tearout and use that to push the stock through using the fence as a reference. Very solid and very safe.


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

radio_davio said:


> ......There was mention above about using a sled. Couldn't a miter with two scrap wood pieces and clamps make a sled?...


Yeah, kinda, but like a push block, it's a good idea to maintain some downward force on the piece with something like a feather board clamped to the table fence.

I use dual track slot, a "T" and miter combo. I can clamp down feathers, stops and the like using the "T" track and the miter track is good for both my miter gauge and coping sled.

A slot guided coping sled with a good lockdown system is the primary benefit of a miter slot in my estimation. 

I use a  Woodhaven sled which locks the piece down well enough that technically no fence is needed since the slot guides the sled.

Say for instance, one needed to cope a 3/4" radius through the 1/2" edge on a 1/2" x 3/4" stick using something like a 3/4" fluting bit (54306). The primary concerns are to safely and accurately make the cut.

Since the bit is larger than the profile of the stick, there is a strong tendency for the bit to grab and yank the stick into itself.

Some typical solutions like a zero clearance fence, a miter gauge or push block with sand papered surfaces along with clamps and feathers can be cobbled together or a regular sled wouldn't be bad but the cut is "taller" than the stick and would need to be accounted for in some fashion (cut into the sled, offset the sled, place the stick on a sacrificial board or whatever), regardless of how one does it, there is still the extra consideration and setup to be done.

With a decent slot guided sled, all one needs to do is set the regular fence for depth indexing, set the bit height for center cut, freshen the backer board, lock in the stick and make the cut, it's already offset so there's no cutting into the sled.

Safe, accurate, no other "jigging-up" is needed and all the other operations one would typically use a miter gauge, push block or fence guided sled for these type of cuts are covered. 

Heck, put in two parallel slots, take off the fence, fix up a cross cut sled similar to a table saw setup and cut out dados anywhere along a board (within reason).


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## garycurtis (Sep 17, 2007)

I agree with Hylton. The slot itself often catches on work being pushed across the top. And it is a magnet for dust. To guide work, I bought a cheap coping sled. A guy could make his own for about $20. 

One more thing. Tops are prone to sagging. A wide trench cut in it doesn't make things stronger.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi David

" *miter slot necessary? " = Yes and No, it's like having AC in your car or truck...it's not a must have item but it sure makes it nice..
You can't use one if you don't have one installed,,...

=======
*


dgave said:


> I noticed that the Bill Hylton, in his book on router tables, said that a miter slot on the table top is "completely unnecessary." I'm fairly new to table-mounted routing (also I've been a woodworker for many years) and I've already used a miter gauge to cut dadoes in small pieces. (The first thing I learned was that you really have to told the workpiece tight to the miter gauge because the cut wants to wander.)
> 
> I'd be interested to hear other router-users' thoughts on the necessity or non-necessity of the miter slot and miter gauge.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

No mitre slot, few holes, just a large smooth dust free non snagging surface. I have an aux fence with horizontal finger guides that I clamp to the table.


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## radio_davio (Apr 28, 2011)

jschaben, that does sound easy.

TomE, that Woodhaven sled is nifty!

gary curtis - sag is a concern I have had. 

For all of you, thanks. It seems there are many things still consider. I have milled the pocket for the plate, but have not milled any slots for miters or the fence yet. If I do end up using combo miter slot hardware, hopefull this cabinet design might reduce sag.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

radio_davio said:


> jschaben, that does sound easy.
> 
> TomE, that Woodhaven sled is nifty!
> 
> ...


Hi Dave - If you're worried about sag, you can use either the standard miter track or t-track which are considerably narrower.Combo track does take a heap of real estate. t-track probably the least but the standard miter track offers a greater selection of commercially avilable jigs.


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## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

The design looks to be good with any track.

If the top is well constructed, filling a groove with a tight fitting track that is well installed (through bolted and or epoxy glued) the tendency for any sag is all but non-existent.

Through the length of the table you're essentially filling the groove with an extruded aluminum I beam.

Across the width, the track would have to fold in on itself for any sag to occur and the partitions of your router enclosure offer bracing against that movement. 

Adequate fastening of the top to your cabinet should eliminate any movement of the table up or down or if you're using a flip up top, a couple of struts across the width of the table should do it too.

My table is attached to the base around the perimeter, two struts running across the width. It's supporting a PC 7518 motor in a lift with a dust bucket hanging below, last I checked, there is no sag.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

I put a mitre slot into my table when I first buit this one about eighteen years ago, and would not be without it, for holding feather boards and for cramping pieces in place when routing end grain as in cutting tenons.


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## dgave (Aug 24, 2010)

I notice that none of you who replied mentioned every using a miter gauge. Do any experienced router-table users ever use one?


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

dgave said:


> I notice that none of you who replied mentioned every using a miter gauge. Do any experienced router-table users ever use one?


Here you'll find the most prolific use of a mitre slot and guage that I have, and in regular use, I might add, nothing fancy all home made and all been in use for up to about 18 years, and still going strong.

Picture.jpg (283.3 KB)


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

as all You need is a fence clamped to the table. You then have a a place to run the miter sled against. It works yery well!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi David

I don't every recall using a miter gauge BUT I do use the track now and then.
Most of the miter gauges don't look to safe to me and just one more way to add a error to the mill job..

BUT I do use the one below if I need a miter job on the router table..it's a safe way..
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=MG01--
===



dgave said:


> I notice that none of you who replied mentioned every using a miter gauge. Do any experienced router-table users ever use one?


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## reverse (Jun 1, 2011)

how about a slot machine to win some money lol HIYOOO


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