# How can I route a fence post?



## OhBrian (Jun 23, 2008)

I need to route holes in a fence post to accept the rails of some vinyl fencing. The posts are 4x4, and the holes will be 2x3 to accept the vinyl rails. The holes don't need to go all the way through but need to be deep enough to hold the rails. There are 3 rails for each post so I'll be making quite a few holes (11 posts). What type of bit and how could I make some kind of template/jig for this? I have a craftsmen plunge router and a porter cable fixed base.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi OhBrian

I would suggest making/using a saddle jig ,see below...

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OhBrian said:


> I need to route holes in a fence post to accept the rails of some vinyl fencing. The posts are 4x4, and the holes will be 2x3 to accept the vinyl rails. The holes don't need to go all the way through but need to be deep enough to hold the rails. There are 3 rails for each post so I'll be making quite a few holes (11 posts). What type of bit and how could I make some kind of template/jig for this? I have a craftsmen plunge router and a porter cable fixed base.


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## OhBrian (Jun 23, 2008)

Never would have thought of doing that. Thanks a bunch!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You'er Welcome OhBrian

It should should get the job done in quick order..


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OhBrian said:


> Never would have thought of doing that. Thanks a bunch!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Brian, The method BJ suggested is the way to go. I would build the jig with all 3 openings so the spacing stays perfect. Measure a line off the ground on the center post for where the top of the jig will be mounted. Use a level and a chaulk line to transfer the location to the other posts. This shouold give you a perfectly balanced fence.


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## OhBrian (Jun 23, 2008)

Another excellent idea Mike. What kind of bit would be best suited for this? I see my problem now will be cutting a smoot opeining in the first piece for the template/jig.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi OhBrian

Just a butt in post,, 

Forstner Bit or hole saw will get the job done for the template hole..
See the guide chart to select the right size hole..
A compass works well for the job..I would suggest a 3/4' GUIDE with a 1/2" bit.

For the bit I would use a 

SOLID MICRO-GRAIN CARBIDE Bit for fast, smooth cuts and an edge that stays sharp longer. 
Spiral Bits produce a very clean and accurate cut with minimal chatter.
With a vac. pickup on the router base to pull the chips out and away from the hole.

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...s/bt_solid_sets.html#super_starter_set_anchor

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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

You could use the forstner bit to get most of the wood cut out, then clean it up with the router. That would save the router bit from doing all the work.


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## littlebit (Jul 20, 2015)

Thank you, Bobj3 for the pic and template!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Littlebit; Bob passed away recently, but his knowledge lives on! His posts and ideas will be around for a very long time.
I do my railings the same way as you're attempting(?). The only difference being that I use wood rails and wood spindles.
But yeah, setting the rails into a mortice makes for a tremendously stronger railing; plan for drunken parties with 250 lb bozos bouncing off them .


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Since no one will see the bottom of the holes it will be faster and easier on the router and bit if you follow Axlmyk's suggestion to get rid of most of the waste by drilling first.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

*hogging out a mortise...*

a forstner is the way to go...

built this table w/ M&T joinery...
did the hogging out w/ a spade bit...

a few months later splits in the joints showed up...

turned out the point of the spade bit formed a line of ''V'' cuts in the bottom of the mortise... 
the point of the ''V'' was very close to the outside opposing surface to the bottom of the mortise.. 
that is where every split occurred, right along the ''V'' groove line...


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## The Hobbyist (Apr 25, 2015)

I would suggest boring a 1/2" hole through the bottom of the fence posts, perpendicular to the rails, and perhaps 2" above the ground level. Make each hole the same distance below the bottom rail. When you dig your post holes, slip a length of conduit through the hole and straddle the hole. Set the conduit onto two 2x4 blocks laid flat. If the bottom of the post does not touch the ground, that's great. Now level the post on both axis planes and anchor them with string and stakes. Next, pour concrete into the hole. Let it harden enough to slip the conduit out. Now every bottom rail will be the same distance from the ground, despite elevation changes.

Oh, and completely coat the entire bottom of each post with Henry's. The black tar stuff. That will make them last a lot longer.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Joe's technique but I use rebar instead of pipe. It'll last longer than you or I and it's not going to bend. Cut it with your portable grinder and a thin cutoff disc. 1/2" minimum diameter rebar.


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