# A new project,hot off the router



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Template Tom has been rather quiet of late so I contacted him via Skype last evening to enquire why. It is because he is in the process of producing a training DVD on plunge routing and this is taking lots of time, mainly getting to grips with his editing programme,so to keep interest in template guides to the fore, I have designed a trinket box routed from solid American Oak. This is not a project that can be finished in an hour or so, it does take time but once completed will give great satisfaction.
The first shot shows two pieces of timber glued together, I used Weld Bond to be sure they stay together. The second shot shows the "finished" box,more on that later.The series of photographs, providing that they remain in the order that I post them should be self explanatory.The thickness of the timber after gluing was 2" and the box was intended to be 9" x4 1/2" .The bulk of the waste was removed with a large Forstner bit and cleaned-up with a 1/2" straight cutter,finally using a 3/4" dish cutter to obtain a good finish with rounded bottom corners. I had to spend $AU80.00 + postage for a CMT collet extension as the dish cutter is not very long. I'm sure that careful finishing with the straight cutter will suit most of you, but remember to only go with the grain. Two methods of deep routing are shown, hand held using packing pieces to keep the router firm, but the more elegant way is to use the method long promoted by Template tom, that is to ski mount the router, it still sits on the template but gives superb control. Finally, the project is not yet finished, I hope to rout a lid, rout some sort of fancy-work then either spray with high gloss lacquer or several coats of Danish oil finishing by rubbing with very fine wire wool lubricated with wax polish. A very important point that I nearly forgot to mention, one of the shots clearly shows one of the many advantages of using a large template guide, the collet extension fits through it with room to spare. Any questions, don't be shy. Harry


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Harry,

*W O W !!*

That is really cool! Very clever way of using the router.

As I was looking at the pics, I thought the outside of the block of wood was eventually going to be the outside of the box... Then, at the end, that thought was shattered when you routed a special trench around it to form the box.

It turned out great... looks really COOL!

After you hogged out the middle section, could you have routed around the outside, not going too deep to touch the 'holders' to form say 1/2 of the outside part of the box.
Then remove the box and removing the bottom part that could not be routed away... with a band saw, filing, etc. and then finally using the already cut part for the guide, trim it flush with a trimming bit?

Just wondering if that would work... and if you would consider doing it...

There would be less waste... and the box would be slightly bigger. 

Your pictures told a good story... Good job!

We now wait for the crowning glory of the project... The lid!
Somehow, I feel that there will some artistic use of templates involved...  

Thank you for showing a great project and new approach.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hello Harry,
Man! Thats exciting and beautiful work. I really enjoyed talking to you on Skype about this project the other day. I was really anxious to see how it came out. You did a great job presenting the project and hope it tweaks the interest about female template routing.
So far I have only been successful in creating a lot of scrap lumber but will keep trying. If only I could do half as good... :sold:


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Very nice Harry. The photo essay is great, thanks. In the second to last photo it looks like you suffered some tear out in the process. It appears that you used a round over to finish the top edges, I assume that fixed the tear out... or ragged edges? 

So what do you have planned for a lid? Fancy work? Stay away from that Lacquer, that stuff is nasty! 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*Solid box*

You are of course dead right Corey, there was some break-out which left me with two choices, either use a round-over or plane a little off the top edge using the router mounted on the ski's, I may still do the latter depending on how I make the lid which as yet I haven't given much thought to, but do keep watching this space! Thanks for the compliments.
Tom paid a second visit today with several new ideas which he filmed as I tested them with good results, he also gave me a sample from his training DVD and if the rest of it is as good it will be a best seller, I must confess that I had not expected such a professional end result. Harry


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*The box*

Thanks George for you're kind words, I hope that now you have seen how it's done you will Skype me in the next few days in a state of great excitement at having had success. I'm more than a little surprised that only regulars to this forum have shown interest, could they be too shy to ask questions or give opinions? Harry


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*The box*

Hi Joe, I can't see any way of routing the outside as you described, what would control the path of the cutter? The way shown, the plug does the guiding, in any case wouldn't the walls look very thick and clumsy? The whole idea of using stock larger than the finished project is to ensure that the cutter can never touch the devices which hold it. You will notice Joe that I cut-in on a clear section. At least it shows that you are thinking about the project and I hope that the guys out there are prepared to listen to Tom and try his methods, the pleasure that I have been getting since studying routing with Tom is immeasurable. Regards Harry.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

harrysin said:


> Hi Joe, I can't see any way of routing the outside as you described, *what would control the path of the cutter?* ... ... The whole idea of using stock larger than the finished project is to ensure that the cutter can never touch the devices which hold it. You will notice Joe that I cut-in on a clear section. ... ... Regards Harry.


Hi Harry,

Yes, cutting around the top of the outside edge would be *step#1* where the template could be tacked / nailed / taped / screwed into the center part of the workpiece prior to hogging it out. And the depth of the cut would ONLY take it a little over the Holders... flush trimming the other half / part would be the Last step using the cut portion as the guide.

Would it work?

Yes, I look forward to seeing all of the projects from both you and Tom.
Keep up the good work!


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

harrysin said:


> Thanks George for you're kind words, I hope that now you have seen how it's done you will Skype me in the next few days in a state of great excitement at having had success. I'm more than a little surprised that only regulars to this forum have shown interest, could they be too shy to ask questions or give opinions? Harry


Hi Harry,
I can only guess as to why the lack of interest but, probably, the newer guys (beginners like me) are intimidated by what they perceive as an advanced method... and they would be correct. The thing is, if you don't attempt more advanced or different methods your skills will never improve and this is a much safer method than freehand or table top routing. I believe the more weapons you have in your arsenal the better the outcome on your projects.
Come on guys... stretch a little, learn a lot! You have an opportunity to learn something fun from a couple of real experts.
:sold:


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

harrysin said:


> I'm more than a little surprised that only regulars to this forum have shown interest, could they be too shy to ask questions or give opinions? Harry


Harry, not suprising to me. That is what we have to work on around here... all of us. We have a whole lot of members but only a small portion post and an even smaller portion are regulars. That's the number 1 problem. 

While I enjoy reading about these methods, I am kind of a jointery guy and will for the most part that is how I make my boxes but I would like to make some divided interiors at some time. I do however plan on using some of Tom's methods in decorating and carving lids etc. with the template holder etc. Your last post helped me out tremendously there Harry. 

Regardless whether I use these methods or not, I find them interesting. We all need to foster more interest in what we do and get more members involved here. So don't take it to heart Harry, Keep at it and maybe more folks will crawl out of the wood work 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*Too complex?*

I really do agree with you George that beginners could be intimidated by these advanced methods which is precisely why I had long discussions with Tom yesterday and SUGGESTED that his first DVD should start from the very beginning ie; points to look for when purchasing a router,matters relating to safety,height adjustment, making a jig holder box,making simple templates,the basic techniques of plunge routing etc etc. Tom has previously produced all this information on CD ROM but I feel sure that he will now add video to end up with a much sought after source of plunge routing information. Beginners can find out all about table routing by watching Bob and Rick, who, I would hasten to add, put on a very polished performance in their demonstrations, but at the moment where can they turn to for plunge routing tuition? This imbalance will soon end! or my name isn't Harry Sinclair


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*More on "the box"*

It probably could be done as you suggest Joe,but Tom's methods are designed with safety first and foremost,just imagine a sight impaired person using you're method, the holding devices,in this case cams would be difficult to avoid and I doubt that the finished box would turn out as well but having said that,one day I may well try you're suggestion Joe.Harry


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

harrysin said:


> It probably could be done as you suggest Joe,but Tom's methods are designed with safety first and foremost,just imagine a sight impaired person using you're method, the holding devices,in this case cams would be difficult to avoid and I doubt that the finished box would turn out as well but having said that,one day I may well try you're suggestion Joe.Harry


I didn't know we were performing tasks for the 'sight impaired'! If that was the case, I don't think I'd let them touch a router, let alone USE it!

I do not understand, I guess...

To me, missing those 'holding devices' would basic router adjustment functions; again, if this can't be done safely, the person shouldn't touch the router. The main cut would be a simple Template cut, which I thought this was all about... with all of the router base on the template.

I do not understand Toms & your objective, I guess... I thought I was 'getting' the picture... Now, I don't know. (??????)

I guess I'll just sit back and watch for now.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hi Joe,
Harry was talking about a plunge router class for sight impaired people that Tom once taught using this method. Tom made the jigs and templates but the sight impaired guys did the router work. Check out Tom's blog for pictures of some of their work (very impressive). The safety factor in using female templates is one of the features that Tom stresses.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Joe, perhaps I can shed some light on the subject for you. While it is possible to use a saw to shape the outside of the box you would then have to do a great deal of finish sanding. Using the router to cut the shape eliminates the need for all but the finest sanding before finishing. In addition to this consider it is possible to reuse this jig time and again so you will always have exact copies of the project. Using the female templates and guide bushings means the bit is always enclosed with no way to contact it. This is why it is safe for blind students. Tom will be the first to tell you that this method is one of many ways to complete a project; it is by far the safest. Tom uses a router table for many of his projects. His message is this: Think about if there is a safer way to do the job.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Harry, one thing I am not clear on is how is the template is attached over the top of the already hogged out interior so the bearing rides along it solidly for routing out the side. 

I have another question for you, when you make a project like this one, do you get much life out of your bits. In particular the routing of the sides of the box, does that cutter have a short life after doing that work... which seems like the bit has to work pretty hard and in particular hardwoods like this. I haven't done any pattern work like this so that is why I ask. 

Thanks,
Corey


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

challagan said:


> Harry, one thing I am not clear on is how is the template is attached over the top of the already hogged out interior so the bearing rides along it solidly for routing out the side.


Good question Corey. I was wondering the same thing.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Corey, The router is in "ski mode", supported by the ski's. The guide bushing only directs the path. Common sense will tell you that the heavy cutting is done in steps with cool down periods in between or my name isnt Harry Sinclair! (Oh wait, that isnt my name!)


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Mike I see now that this was done on the skis but I still don't see how the template was held firmly in place which I would think it would need to be. 

"Common sense will tell you that the heavy cutting is done in steps with cool down periods in between or my name isnt Harry Sinclair! (Oh wait, that isnt my name!"

I am quite capable of using common sense and understand that multiple passes are made, however it is still some fairly heavy cutting. I was just curious with this kind of cutting what kind of life you get out of a bit like this. I haven't done any pattern or template routing.

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*Still more on "the box"*

Well, gentlemen, I was ready to answer all you're questions but Mike has beat me to it in a most eloquent manner. I do indeed take cuts of about 1/8" at a time in hard woods and I don't force the router, with the result that I have never had any of my cutters re-sharpened, although some are probably ready for it. You all really should make a set of skis, they give the operator total control of the router,bearing in mind that it is controlled from the ends. Lets face it, beginners are just as vulnerable as sight impaired people when using the router so safety is a must. 
Don't forget Joe, that "the box" was designed as a ROUTER project to teach new methods of using this most versatile tool,also bear in mind that I did not go all the way through to the bottom,if I had,the box would have been free to move and be hit and damaged by the cutter.One of the shots shows the last 1/8" being removed on the band saw prior to clean-up on the table using a straight bearing cutter.
I have just spoken to MIKE and been given an insight into the guides and cutters available in the USA and shall pass this information to Template Tom to consider including projects on future DVD's using imperial guides and cutters that you guys are likely to have. Harry


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks Harry, I guess it will be easier to see the skids in operation on the DVD. I am glad Mike gave you that info, that makes it easier for us Yanks!

Corey


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

OK guys. Lets try this one more time. In picture #11 (bottom row, left-most pic) we can see the router is in ski mode but what Corey and I are asking is how is the template itself being held down to the bowl top to keep it from moving around while skiing around it?  Are you using tape, nails, screws, gravity....? :'(


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*"the box"*

As just discussed with you on Skype George,the router was sitting on the plug which was a tight fit into the box but also had packing beneath it to ensure nil movement, the skis were then fitted and adjusted to the same height and so the router could be moved freely in all directions controlling it by holding the ski ends. Next week I shall give some further details in an attempt to clear-up remaining questions. Harry


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Thanks Harry,
Your the best! I really enjoyed talking to Tom, Dick and Harry on Skipe.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

harrysin said:


> ... ... Don't forget Joe, that "the box" was designed as a ROUTER project to teach new methods of using this most versatile tool,also bear in mind that I did not go all the way through to the bottom,if I had,the box would have been free to move and be hit and damaged by the cutter.One of the shots shows the last 1/8" being removed on the band saw prior to clean-up on the table using a straight bearing cutter.
> ... ... ...
> Harry


Hi Harry,

I was still using a Router... it is still a "Router Project"... I wasn't proposing changing that.

Actually, what I was proposing, is exactly what you did except I would have gone around the outside of the box, using a guide & template, to form the box, but staying more than 1/8" away from the cams  ... and making a simple / light cut... as the first step. Cutting out that deep big bit-wide groove (like a mortise) around the inside edge of the box looks like it could be a little dangerous to me to say nothing about being very hard on the cutter.

I wasn't sure if that was a band saw blade or not in your picture... makes sense. I would have just cut around the outside edge instead. As it turns out, you used a 'straight bearing cutter' the same way I proposed, except I would have been cleaning up a little more material up to where the cams were.

In thinking about the Top / Lid, the same template that I used to make the outside cut, could also be used, with different Guides / bits, to form the main lid as well as the underside rebate to fit into the box (I think) (could that work?)

I look forward to the lid.

Just trying to understand your steps and to inject my own questions / ideas.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*The box*

Joe, there is one sure way to tell if you're method will work,why don't you drop everything and make a box for all to see,believe it or not,I am always prepared to learn from others,that's how I learned to use the plunge router from Template Tom.Would you please keep the same measurements, 9" x 41/2" and about 2" deep.I, and probably a lot of others are looking forward to seeing a blow by blow photographic exhibition of the making of a plunge routed box made by you're methods Joe.I'm sure this challenge will result in a work of art in the very near future. All the best Joe, Harry


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

harrysin said:


> Joe, there is one sure way to tell if you're method will work,why don't you drop everything and make a box for all to see,believe it or not,I am always prepared to learn from others,that's how I learned to use the plunge router from Template Tom.Would you please keep the same measurements, 9" x 41/2" and about 2" deep.I, and probably a lot of others are looking forward to seeing a blow by blow photographic exhibition of the making of a plunge routed box made by you're methods Joe.I'm sure this challenge will result in a work of art in the very near future. All the best Joe, Harry


I'm trying to get your thoughts on whether YOU THINK it would work or not.

It seems to me that it should... I do not really know... But you experts in the use of Templates, etc., I thought, would know.

If you were to attempt it, do you think it would work?
You are not sight impared are you?

If I had to be restricted to the same size of box, I would start with a smaller chunk of wood because I would not be wasting that outer cut.

I have too many projects lined up to do... it would be a long time before I could get this project done.

Thank you for your thoughts.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Hi Joe,yes it would work but for the sake of a little more lumber,the increase in safety is well worth the extra cost. I have just about finished the lid but will not post the details until it is all sanded and polished.By the way Joe, I do wear glasses for close-up work and reading but am not sight impaired. The whole idea of presenting these projects is to teach beginners and even long term woodworkers who only use the hand held router for things like edge round-overs and who mainly use the table mounted router that there are interesting and safer methods of routing, let's face it Joe, hobbyists generally look for pleasant ways to pass their spare time and learning plunge routing fits this description.Cheers, Harry


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Harry,

Thank you.

I wear glasses too... when it comes to closeup work, I can see better when I take my glasses off... otherwise, I could get impaired in other ways!  

I look forward to seeing the top lid and how you did it...

I think Safety is almost like Beauty... never thought of it like this before... but it seems to fit... 

"Beauty is in the eyes of the beholder."

Safety is very much the same way... what is unsafe to one, may seem safe to someone else and vice-versa.

To me, it's safer to make the small outside cut than to make the huge full bit cut making the outside of the box.

Hey, Harry, I just remembered a technique used by one of your contrymen... David in Cairns (have you seen his work?)... Anyway when he wants to make a Temporary connection so he can work with it easier... like temporarily gluing a chunk of wood to a 'carrier' so he could mount it on a lathe, turn it until done, then undo the glued pieces.

Edit (added):
http://www.woodworking.org/InfoExchange/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1399
Looks like he has not been around for awhile... hope he's OK... He just vanishes... then after a few months / years, pops up again. This time... ???
/Edit


He uses Paper... He places a few sheets of paper between the two pieces and glues them together (with the paper in between them)... When done, and by exerting some force into the joint, the paper simply tears away and is cleaned up.

Anyway, I was thinking about how that same technique could be used to afix the Box wood piece to a bottom section and placed into your holding jig. NO Cams... No Clamps... etc. You could get the workpiece very close to the edge... close enough to allow a small space to the point where you would feel safe in cutting around the workpiece to form the rounded corners, for the outside of the box. When done, just pry it away from the base.

It has been a long time since I've seen projects where he does this... If you can, see of you can find him and ask him... I will try to find links, etc. about him.

Later...


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## sawzall (Jun 4, 2007)

love that first fixture..

the cam locks ROCK..

thanks for the idea.. thats so simple I'll use it tomorrow..


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## iwoodworker (Sep 14, 2009)

*great job*

I just found this thread and I am very new to routing. I was wondering if you make any videos. This is one that I would really like to see in action.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Hello ?, and welcome to the RouterForums. Glad you are a member of our community.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

iwoodworker said:


> I just found this thread and I am very new to routing. I was wondering if you make any videos. This is one that I would really like to see in action.


Eddie, first off, PLEASE complete your profile so that I/we know a little about you, age, experience, tools you have etc., this makes it so much easier to deal with any questions that you have, for instance, it's no good giving an answer that includes a jointer if you don't have one.
Back to your question, no, I'm not into video recording, I try to stick with things that I'm good at or at least feel that I'm likely to become good at!
What I can assure you though is ask as many questions as you like, no question is considered stupid on this forum, we can discuss anything and everything EXCEPT "global warming"
The project to which you refer was one of the most satisfying that I have produced.


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## edhills (Dec 14, 2009)

Harry that is awful nice project.. I just got my first router this year for Christmas and am looking forward to making projects like this. Thanks for sharing and if you make a DVD let me know i'd be interested... I love them Aussie accents... please have a young lady do the voice over for ya.. lol I spent some time in Australia when I was in the USN and I wanted to move there ever since... but you get married and the best laid plans.. well you know.. anyways it's a great looking project just the same.. see you later..


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"I love them Aussie accents"

Ed, you would be so disappointed, In spite of living here for 45 years, I'm told that I sound as if I only left England last week.


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## Tom76 (Aug 28, 2009)

iwoodworker said:


> I just found this thread and I am very new to routing. I was wondering if you make any videos. This is one that I would really like to see in action.


Welcome to the forum Interested in Routing a box?????
I have been experimenting with the use of template guides with the router and to illustrate what can be achieved I have submitted a number of processes I had introduced at the Perth Wood show in 2008. You may find something of interest. I call them New Routing Techniques as most of the projects listed have never been demonstrated before. They are listed on You Tube under Routing with Tom O'Donnell
Tom


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## Tom76 (Aug 28, 2009)

edhills said:


> Harry that is awful nice project.. I just got my first router this year for Christmas and am looking forward to making projects like this. Thanks for sharing and if you make a DVD let me know i'd be interested... I love them Aussie accents... please have a young lady do the voice over for ya.. lol I spent some time in Australia when I was in the USN and I wanted to move there ever since... but you get married and the best laid plans.. well you know.. anyways it's a great looking project just the same.. see you later..


Not exactly the same project as Harry submitted but the same principle used to complete the Elliptical Trinket Boxes. When producing an elliptical template it is important that it is cut true to shape and I would suggest that the shape was produced using an elliptical cutting Jig or you may find the shape in a craft shop that has been produced with a CNC router. It might be slightly larger than you require but with the aid of template guides and a straight cutter you can reduce it to the size required. 
I have been experimenting with the use of template guides with the router and to illustrate what can be achieved I have submitted a number of processes I had introduced at the Perth Wood show in 2008. You may find something of interest. I call them New Routing Techniques as most of the projects listed have never been demonstrated before. They are listed on You Tube under Routing with Tom O'Donnell
Tom


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## Padawan Learner (Oct 12, 2009)

Great work, Harry. Beautiful bowl, so far. It was your jig and bar apparatus that piqued my interest, though. How about posting some descriptions and names of the devices you used to create this work. What do you call the jig? What is the two-bar device called? How do they work? 

Sorry I don't already know the answers to these questions, but I'm still a clueless newbie on hand-held router jigs.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Padawan Learner said:


> Great work, Harry. Beautiful bowl, so far. It was your jig and bar apparatus that piqued my interest, though. How about posting some descriptions and names of the devices you used to create this work. What do you call the jig? What is the two-bar device called? How do they work?
> 
> Sorry I don't already know the answers to these questions, but I'm still a clueless newbie on hand-held router jigs.


Hopefully these photographs will answer your questions, but if not, don't hesitate to keep on asking. I'll repeat what I've already told you, no question is considered stupid on this forum, in the time that I've been a member, I've learned a great deal and I hope that I've reciprocated by passing on what knowledge I have.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Harry,

It was great to see this thread bumped.

The cream always rises to the top...

PS did you use the same jig to make the plug?

James

James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You're just too kind James, I'm pretty sure that I cut the plug on either the radial arm saw or the saw table and rounded the corners on the disk sander.


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## Padawan Learner (Oct 12, 2009)

Harry, I was about to say you should have been a teacher, but I realize you _are_ a teacher and a good one at that. I did some research on router skis and can see that they are widely understood among experienced "routologists." And thanks for the encouragement to keep asking questions. Here are some questions I still have:


How do you keep the routing line straight as you move the skis across the wood? 
It looks like you just push it manually with a hand on each ski. What keeps the whole apparatus from wandering off course? Do you constrain the skis with a track, then adjust the swath after each pass by repositioning the router on the rods?

Do you know of a tutorial or "how to" video somewhere on how to build and use a ski, jig, and fixture?

It appears the circular devices in your jig are eccentrics for positioning the material in the jig. Why not just use cleats? How do you reposition these "cams" for different projects?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Padawan Learner said:


> Harry, I was about to say you should have been a teacher, but I realize you _are_ a teacher and a good one at that. I did some research on router skis and can see that they are widely understood among experienced "routologists." And thanks for the encouragement to keep asking questions. Here are some questions I still have:
> 
> 
> How do you keep the routing line straight as you move the skis across the wood?
> ...


I'm sorry to have missed your post Vaughn so here I go, holding the end cheeks of the ski gives you great mechanical advantage and makes for instance routing a sign surprisingly easy. For certain operations like routing a slot that needs to be accurate, I'll try to find some photographs as examples. As for the cams, this is only one of many methods of holding the work-piece, a scrap of MDF pinned around it is one, plastic shelf supports, the small round ones with a nail through the centre is another. For details on the skis and jig making, spend time wading through my gallery, and others too, there is heaps of photo shoots.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Thanks for the play-by-play Harry, this is one of the threads that should go in the new FAQ section.


Bookmarked for future reference and forum search, Template Tom, Router Skis.


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## Padawan Learner (Oct 12, 2009)

Harry, thanks for taking time to do those thoughtful and clear explanations. 

Now I'm going to have to make one. Fortunately, it doesn't look complicated. I'll be back with some more newbie questions after I try it out.


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

Perfect project for a pin router.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Hello Harry
My router (Kress 900w +/- similar to Trend T4) has 8mm holes in the base. Do you think a 8mm threaded rod is sufficient to make ski? What Maximum length can I do with these bars? Do youI advise me to make an plate suspended by rods of 12mm?
Thank you for your participation in this great site, my favorit !
Santé


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a butt in post

Router Forums - View Single Post - Look what I found when I got home
http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...70-look-what-i-found-when-i-got-home-1212.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...70-look-what-i-found-when-i-got-home-1214.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/130473-post37.html

http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/15833-look-what-i-found-when-i-got-home.html

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/general-routing/25243d1246453662-blame-bj-small-skis17.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/123046-post1.html


======



Santé said:


> Hello Harry
> My router (Kress 900w +/- similar to Trend T4) has 8mm holes in the base. Do you think a 8mm threaded rod is sufficient to make ski? What Maximum length can I do with these bars? Do youI advise me to make an plate suspended by rods of 12mm?
> Thank you for your participation in this great site, my favorit !
> Santé


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## MarcoBernardini (Jan 26, 2010)

What a luck there are Word Games to reach the posting level required to edit :laugh:

This box is absolutely fantastic!
Since it will require a lot of time before I'll acquire enough skills to make it, and even more time, for me, to find the right wood, here is my idea... 
What about a six sides box, with the proportions of a nut (as in nut&bolts)?
The lid could be completed with a protruding piece of "bolt", but I think this would require a lathe.
I don't know if this is feasible, but surely it would be impressive to see an M200 nut on a coffee table.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Thanks Bob
I see that your Skis is +/- 20" lang (+/-50 cm) I will make a ski so long
Thanks
Santé


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## Piet (Feb 4, 2010)

I like what I see and there is a lot for me to learn.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

MarcoBernardini said:


> What a luck there are Word Games to reach the posting level required to edit :laugh:
> 
> This box is absolutely fantastic!
> Since it will require a lot of time before I'll acquire enough skills to make it, and even more time, for me, to find the right wood, here is my idea...
> ...


Hi Marco, kind of a cool idea. 

Wouldn't really need a lathe. I saved the attached file for future reference. There may even be plans for it somewhere in this forum. I just don't know where yet. You would just need a mechanism to tranlate the router as the workpiece is rotated. Use a straight bit for square threads or a v-cut for sharp threads on the bolt.


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## MarcoBernardini (Jan 26, 2010)

jschaben said:


> Hi Marco, kind of a cool idea.
> 
> Wouldn't really need a lathe. I saved the attached file for future reference. There may even be plans for it somewhere in this forum. I just don't know where yet. You would just need a mechanism to tranlate the router as the workpiece is rotated. Use a straight bit for square threads or a v-cut for sharp threads on the bolt.


Well, this will be a sort of "man-powered lathe" 
On the number of November 1953 of "Popular Mechanics" (available on Google Books) there is an article about threading with a drill press: the same method can be applied to a router.
And here a nice spiral candlestick: http://home.att.net/~waterfront-woods/Articles/SpiralCandle.pdf.
The router movement can be achieved pushing it with a long screw, and some gears can be used to turn the piece. It has to turn slower than the pushing screw, or the pitch will be the same.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You can pickup a tool off ebay for about 5o.oo bucks that can do it in a heart beat.

http://www.routerforums.com/75307-post47.html
====


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## Stefang (Feb 10, 2010)

Very methodical and well planned work and a very impressive result too. You must have good dust removal as well. A lot to learn from this. Thanks


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Santé said:


> Hello Harry
> My router (Kress 900w +/- similar to Trend T4) has 8mm holes in the base. Do you think a 8mm threaded rod is sufficient to make ski? What Maximum length can I do with these bars? Do youI advise me to make an plate suspended by rods of 12mm?
> Thank you for your participation in this great site, my favorit !
> Santé


I'm sorry to have missed this post Daniel, here are links to TWO photo shoots of making skis with 8mm rods. These are 350mm long which is getting close to the maximum that I would recommend, however, bear in mind that the skis are operated from the ends so that the downward pressure caused by the weight of the router remains constant.

http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/15122-blame-bj.html

*http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/15212-my-trim-router-goes-skiing.html*


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Oh, yes, that's a good idea for a router with colet 43mm ! and it is better to see what we do .
Thanks Harry


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