# Bevel jig



## aka361 (Apr 19, 2010)

Hello,

Great forum you have here. Lots of very useful information. Very kind of you all to offer so much information.

I have done some searching and found some information, but would like to address this idea directly, before I start doing all the trial and error, just to make sure I haven't missed anything critical. 

I wish to make drum shells, styled "stave drums." Essentially it is a barrel using vertical grain wood staves with beveled edges. Depending on the number of staves used, depends on the bevel angle for the joints. Makes sense. I have a table saw, I have a router. Even though many manufacturers offer router bits at appropriate angles for these staves, they usually won't cut a bevel on a stave thicker than 7/8''. I would like to have thicker staves because it would allow for more error. This can be done with the table saw, but I feel I would have more control with a router. So it would seem I am looking for a way to create a "bevel fence" to repeatedly cut the same angle into a stave, with a table router and a straight bit. I have this bevel fence worked out it worked out in my head, except that I can't seem to figure out getting the proper angle on the guide. I see holes in my plans if I use a chamfer bit, because the length of the bevel would be 7/8''. Doesn't seem like I would a long enough cut. I'm worried about getting the angle just right with a table saw. Even .1 degree error, with 16 stave would have 32 cut edges, makeing a total degree of error at 3-4 degrees, which will make the shell unstable. Understanding in the end it may just take repeated trial and error to get it right, is there any suggestions you guys could offer?

I want to make several of these bevel fence jigs at multiple angles to avoid using a table saw as much as possible, and to be able to repeatedly make solid joints of variable stave width, without having to adjust the angle on a table saw for different number of stave drums. Sorry for being long wided, and I hope I am being clear. Thank you in advance for you time.

-Adam


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Try this: Router Workshop: bevelfence


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Adam

Give this a try , your staves will be dead on, 7/8" thick, not a big deal with a joiner ..just lock the angle and push them over the blades..just clamp a board to the top to keep your fingers out of the way and to hold them in the right angle..
Just a note you can take off up to 3/16" on each pass,you will have it dun in short order..

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/table-mounted-routing/35222d1272337814-lap-joints-0149.jpg

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aka361 said:


> Hello,
> 
> Great forum you have here. Lots of very useful information. Very kind of you all to offer so much information.
> 
> ...


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## wm_crash (Nov 30, 2009)

Hi,

I am into woodworking for the exact same reason; stave shell drums. I am still waiting for my table saw to show up (pre-ordered a DeWalt on special but out of stock from Lowe's). I doubt there is significant variation in repeated cuts after properly fixing the saw blade at an angle. It's just a feeling, but I will figure out for muself later. In the mean time, I am cutting some staves with a Bosch Palm router with a tilt base.

I use a Beall Tilt Box to check angles and I am within 0.05 degrees, but keep in mind that the device itself has a 0.1 uncertainty. For proper stave shell angles, this device is flimsy. Better accuracy costs hundreds of dollars. That means that in the end, it will be trial and error as far as calibrating your angle cutting jig to the error margin you seek . . . . what is it . . 0.0001?

On top of that, there are tensions in the wood which will show up after the wood is cut. Even with a jig, maybe you lean into it a bit more, maybe 2% humidity variation or 10 degree temperature variation can introduce variation into your staves. The point is, whatever you do, you will have small variations at best.

There are two things to do in this case:

1. make extra staves so you can play around when you do your dry fit

2. use sanding paper to make small changes to the stave angle; it's doable since you're only trying to make minor changes.

cheers,
wm_crash, the friendly hooligan


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome Adam, to the RouterForums. Thanks for participating in our forums.


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## wm_crash (Nov 30, 2009)

I forgot to mention a thing. Most people who make stave shells will make a flat edge. On one occasion, I've seen a tongue-n-groove approach at BCW Drums. Look up on YouTube "B.C.W. Solid Wood Drums video 2 shop work".

MLCS has Glue Joint Router Bits, which can be used with a tilted table router (or the afore mentioned bevelfence) similar to the guy in the video above.

They also have the Multi-Sided Glue Joint Router Bits. It goes up to 16 staves, which may be acceptable to build small size rack toms. On top of that, with some geometry and trigonometry, you can play with the angle and get more staves.

Anyways, just an idea I tought I'd share. This approach is in my plans and already have the bits. Time is tight as usual.

Just out of curiosity, what do you plan to use to lathe the thing down to a cylinder?

cheers,
wm_crash, the friendly hooligan

ps - I can't post URLS to stuff I mention because I don't yet have 10 posts.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

You stave makers might find this horizontal router table with adjustable angle router holder useful. Same concept could be used in a noraml table setup.
You'll just need a long spiral or shear bit to get the cleanest cut.


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## wm_crash (Nov 30, 2009)

The real question is what is the most reliable setup for repeated stave angle cuts. In Adam's case, a table saw with a tilted blade was not good enough. Is the horizonal router mount more accurate at getting repeat cuts at a consistent angle?

My personal opinion is again that factors outside of the cutting instrument will affect the angle, so there is no reason to get a cutting instrument with nanometer accuracy.

cheers,
wm_crash, the friendly hooligan


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## aka361 (Apr 19, 2010)

Hey Crash, 

I have seen alot of your posts at DrumShed. Good to see you here as well.

Hamlin,
That essentially is what i have in mind. Also, looks like one would be able to change th angle easily.

Bob,
That is awesome, but I don't have a jointer. I'm one of those guys that really wants to DIY.

Gav, 
That side router is cool, but I agree with you that the same thing could be achieved by a traditional set up.


Thanks very much for your responses. Looking at the bevel fence link, that seems to be the most accurate type of set up. It sure looks like there is just going to be alot of variables, which is fine. I'll set up a fence and see if that works. It will still require some adjustment, as would a table saw with a tilt box. Either way, I will let you guys know of the outcome. Hopefully, I can come up with a way to do the trial and error on a jig, and not a stave every time. Work hard now to save time in the future, you know?

-Adam

Gav, 
That side router is cool, but I agree with you that the same thing could be achieved by a traditional set up.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Guys.. if you're going to be doing one-off on the number of staves it's going to involve a fair amount of hand-work. If you're going to be making a number of them with the same number of staves (and if they're tapered top to bottom the same angle) I'd spend the time making a jig with precisely the correct setup. The first ones will take longer as you perfect the jig but you'll end up with a readily repeatable solution. If you have more than one style, it'll take more than one jig.

Hey BJ... How many non-trivial jigs you got in your shop? <g>


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

The Bevel fence can be created to suit any angle one desires. You can create the angle with a TS, joiner and if you have the patience, a shooting board with the use of a hand plane and a miter gauge. I suggest you take a look at the latest "Shopnotes" mag in the "Tips for your shop" section for an idea. You are only limited by your imagination. :yes4:


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