# Saw blade for the router?



## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

Hello all,

I have seen a picture on this forum of a small circular saw blade attached to a router in a table setup. It is used to cut open wooden boxes. I think it was Bobj3's picture, but I'm sure anyone who makes boxes has one or knows about it. 

I can find blades, but none that specifically state they are okay for router use. Is this an adaptation of a regular blade, or is there a router specific blade?

If an adaptation, how are you addressing the blade speed? I don't see any rated anywhere near 8,000 rpm.

Mike


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I am wondering if what you saw was a slot cutting bit, which can resemble a small saw blade. However, putting an actual saw blade on a router seems like a really bad idea.


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

Do you mean a 3 wing slot cutter? 3-Wing Slotting Cutters - Lee Valley Tools


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Its a slitting saw, but use it in your drill press.

Grizzly.com® -- Online Catalog


here's some instructions for use with metalwork, but some pointers apply

http://www.sherline.com/3065inst.htm


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

Thanks all, I guess I'll need to go through Bobj3's uploads to be sure of what I saw. Should find it in no time since he only has 3 or 4 uploads total. ":^(

Or, with any luck, Bob will be able to bail me out here.

Mike


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

They are slotting saws Mike.


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## HardwoodQuills (Aug 24, 2011)

Use the table saw....


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Mike

If you really do need a slotting bit for the router, then Onsrud make several. These are really designed for plastics, but they will work with hardwoods and will easily will take the speed of a router. The price, however, is something else!

Regards

Phil


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

Hello all,

Bob has so many uploads that I'm not even going to attempt to look for it there. 

What I believe I saw, was a table mounted router with a saw blade, not a slot cutter. I'm guessing the blade had 20 - 24 or so teeth. 

Since I didn't have a use for the setup at the time I saw the picture, I didn't really study it such that I can tell you for certain what I wrote above is what was in the picture.

I've never built a box, so it didn't occur to me that one would build a complete box and cut it open as opposed to building the top and bottom separately. I also remember thinking that this method would make for a perfect fit of the lid, and that the thin kerf of that blade along with the solid foundation of a table and fence, would make for an even cut without removing much material.

Now, based upon that memory, I'm fairly certain I saw what I have indicated above.

However, if someone were to challenge me to a bet that what I saw wasn't actually in the picture, I wouldn't take the bet.

Buy I really really think I saw a saw. :"^)

Mike


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

You are right on, it's a 3 3/8" saw blade (1/16" wide carb.tip) and it's very safe way of doing it, you can get the saw blade from HD and Lowers, you can get the blade arbor from Grizzy,see Doug's post...G1438 Slitting Saw Arbor

I have been down the road with the slot cutters and they just can't do the job,most only cut max of 1/2" deep the norm the blade will cut 1 1/4" max and do it safe unlike the table saw,it's not the 2 cuts it's that last cuts that makes it unsafe on the table saw...and yes I do use a 6 1/2" 1/16" wide blade on my table saw..from time to time..

When you cut off the top of a box, it's that little part left by the table saw that makes it a mess...just like a band saw, the router table can do it very well and safe..

Just a note, the lid on the box below was taking off with the saw blade way in the router, it's very hard to see the cut but it's in place 

====



mpbc48 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> Bob has so many uploads that I'm not even going to attempt to look for it there.
> 
> ...


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I don't see how the table saw is unsafe to cut open a box? I use the table saw for this as both pieces are supported by the table top & guided by the fence when making last cuts. The loose piece is not suspended in air on top of a spinning blade. I use the table saw many times when making tool boxes & work boxes that need a matching recessed top. Maybe the router table could be used for small items but that method is not for me.


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## LinuxRandal (Mar 11, 2011)

Do you shim it to keep it open when cutting the last side or two? (I probably need to find the orignal post)

Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I do with some thin stock,same as the blade, masking tape in place on the 1st 2 cuts..than just turn it..on the router table no need to keep it in the right place, the router table will do all the work for me. (it's flat ) and it works on any size box 


===


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Cool, I wondered how that was done too! Thanks! One day I'll get the chance to make one!!


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> You are right on, it's a 3 3/8" saw blade (1/16" wide carb.tip) and it's very safe way of doing it, you can get the saw blade from HD and Lowers, you can get the blade arbor from Grizzy,see Doug's post...G1438 Slitting Saw Arbor
> 
> ...


Hi Bob,

Thank you for restoring my fleeting sanity and what is left of my confidence in my memory. :"^)

I can see using that setup for a number of tasks. 

Thanks
Mike


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Lee


I know that you are into making signs,it's a great way to make them, no need to hog out the back ground...when it's flat to start off with...just cut out your letters with the scroll saw and stick them down in place..then stick on some edging on the board...


=======



N'awlins77 said:


> Cool, I wondered how that was done too! Thanks! One day I'll get the chance to make one!!


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Yea, hey Bob, That's an idea too. I've actually done some cut out numbers on my scroll saw. Big letters you could use on your house for the address. But I was just practicing and used MDF. So many things to do and not enough time!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Lee

You may say what has that got to do with the saw blade in the router table, once you router out the edging you can slice it off clean with the saw blade..


=======


N'awlins77 said:


> Yea, hey Bob, That's an idea too. I've actually done some cut out numbers on my scroll saw. Big letters you could use on your house for the address. But I was just practicing and used MDF. So many things to do and not enough time!!


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## taxque (Jun 30, 2009)

*Which saw blade for each application?*

Bob,

In an earlier post on the router saw arbor - it was used to make cuts for the kerf hinges. What are the part numbers for the different Kerf sizes? I went to the Grizzly site by clicking the link in that post but there are several different diameter and thickness blades available. Also is there more that one arbor needed or is the step arbor on the Grizzly site sufficient? I will be trying the saw arbor to cut off the lid on my next humidor - so the Irwin 1/16" X 3-3/8" is what you would recommend for that right? I want to get all the Grizzly stuff in one order to save on shipping.

Thanks,

Greg





bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> You are right on, it's a 3 3/8" saw blade (1/16" wide carb.tip) and it's very safe way of doing it, you can get the saw blade from HD and Lowers, you can get the blade arbor from Grizzy,see Doug's post...G1438 Slitting Saw Arbor
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

" step arbor " yes it's a step type , it's the only one you need for the 3 3/8" blades,now for the blades for the hinges, don't buy the one from Grizzly to high and most are made for metal cutting, get the blades for the Dremel tool from Amazon and the arbor for the same at the same place ,you can also use the arbor below from Grizzly..

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Slitting-Saw-Arbor/G1438
http://www.grizzly.com/products/H5622

see rockler for the blade size you need BUT DON't buy the blade from rockler 40.oo is way to high.. 

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...5628d1314292050-saw-blade-router-100_2210.jpg




=======



taxque said:


> Bob,
> 
> In an earlier post on the router saw arbor - it was used to make cuts for the kerf hinges. What are the part numbers for the different Kerf sizes? I went to the Grizzly site by clicking the link in that post but there are several different diameter and thickness blades available. Also is there more that one arbor needed or is the step arbor on the Grizzly site sufficient? I will be trying the saw arbor to cut off the lid on my next humidor - so the Irwin 1/16" X 3-3/8" is what you would recommend for that right? I want to get all the Grizzly stuff in one order to save on shipping.
> 
> ...


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

WOW! This is to me where this forum really shines! I found this to be very intersting and felt the need for Super Glue and Band-Aids just reading this, but if there's a ROUTER product out there, someone on this forum will know about it, as Bob J. has shown above. This is very cool info as much of my work involves building stuff that just isn't out there for purchase. If it was already available, it wouldn't need to be invented; but this post has taught me a new trick from a few very smart guys! Thanks so much for this kind of post!
*OPG3*


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## taxque (Jun 30, 2009)

Bob,

Got my arbors ordered. I actually ordered the parts from Grizzly to put a quick tension release lever on my Delta bandsaw as well - much cheaper than going the Carter route, esp. for something that some experts say you don't need. 

I notice that one of the Grizzly arbors (1/4" bore) will fit the dremel blades. Do you use this arbor with the dremel blades on the router table for the Kerf hinges or do you actually use a dremel tool? The dremel tool and arbor will cut deeper but I do not know if that is a big dig or not.

Greg


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Greg

I use both one on the Dremel router table and on the full size router table, the one on the Dremel is for the real small boxes..

Amazon.com: 1.25" High-Speed Steel Saw Blade w/ Mandrel: Home Improvement

http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-546-01-4-Inch-Diameter-Crosscut/dp/B00008Z9ZQ/ref=pd_sim_hi_2

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...7d1314637765-precise-slot-cutting-bit-819.jpg
======



taxque said:


> Bob,
> 
> Got my arbors ordered. I actually ordered the parts from Grizzly to put a quick tension release lever on my Delta bandsaw as well - much cheaper than going the Carter route, esp. for something that some experts say you don't need.
> 
> ...


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Lee
> 
> You may say what has that got to do with the saw blade in the router table, once you router out the edging you can slice it off clean with the saw blade..
> 
> ...


Oh wow, that opens up a lot of doors. Cutting small thin slices of wood. Going to order myself an arbor as well!!


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> You are right on, it's a 3 3/8" saw blade (1/16" wide carb.tip) and it's very safe way of doing it, you can get the saw blade from HD and Lowers, you can get the blade arbor from Grizzy,see Doug's post...G1438 Slitting Saw Arbor
> 
> ...


OK Bob, while I trust your expertise in all things router I have a question about using saw blades in a router. How do you justify using a saw blade that has a maximum RPM of 5000+/- in a router running at 10-15 thousand RPM? 

Having asked that I question the low RPM for a saw blade because it is made of solid steel and I can't fathom it coming apart at any RPM. Maybe the carbide tips may fly off, but again very unlikely. Flexibility distortion may be a factor, but again I question that also.

I want to try your procedure for cutting box tops because I have neither a table saw or band saw. I did order the arbors from Grizzley, but like I said I question the Saw Blade RPM as stated on the blade or packaging. 

Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ken

I use the blades at 8,000 rpm's the max on the router table but you are right the blades are rated at 2200 rpm's but I have used them many times without any errors I think it falls into the class if you feel it is not safe then don't used them...the 1st. time I used the blades I took a hammer to the blades to see if I could knock off the carb. chips not one came off out of 20 chips and I did try many times ,bent the blades many times but the chip was still in place..they do make the same blade without the chip but I wanted to use the blade with the chip, in the snapshots you will see both types of blades..

http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SBW-03...ref=sr_1_8?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1314971658&sr=1-8

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-721005...f=sr_1_16?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1314971658&sr=1-16

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-792299...f=sr_1_59?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1314971807&sr=1-59

http://www.amazon.com/Makita-792611...f=sr_1_61?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1314971857&sr=1-61

Just a note Ken, if you have a older router without the VS speed control built in you can use a ext.speed control box to get the speed way down 1500 RPM's most of the speeds on the routers are big hiper thing, many are lot lower. I have check out many and most are way out of whack.. 

====





Ken Bee said:


> OK Bob, while I trust your expertise in all things router I have a question about using saw blades in a router. How do you justify using a saw blade that has a maximum RPM of 5000+/- in a router running at 10-15 thousand RPM?
> 
> Having asked that I question the low RPM for a saw blade because it is made of solid steel and I can't fathom it coming apart at any RPM. Maybe the carbide tips may fly off, but again very unlikely. Flexibility distortion may be a factor, but again I question that also.
> 
> ...


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I think the lower rpm rating for saw blades are because in general they have a larger diameter. The outer edge of a larger diameter will spin at a much higher rpm than a smaller diameter using the same motor set at the same speed. Just look at the different rpm ratings for large router bits vs small bits. Carbide adhesion failure has been known to fail at very high rpm. That's the reason for the ratings for size vs rpm limits. When a carbide fails on a saw blade it is like a flying bullet in the shop (yes I've seen it happen).


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

Here is a 3 pack of 2" blades with a 3/8" arbor size and rated @ 13000 rpm.

Pack of 3 2" Cut-Off Wheels

Also a mandrel for 1/4" and 3/8" arbor rated @ 25000 max rpm.

1/4" Cut-Off Wheel Arbor for Die Grinder

AL


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James

Note the 4" carb. tip Biscuit blade's in the pictures, they are rated at 10,000 rpm's.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...5633d1314292050-saw-blade-router-100_2215.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...5630d1314292050-saw-blade-router-100_2212.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...5624d1314292050-saw-blade-router-100_2206.jpg
======


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Al

Same one I post in the above post
http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...5629d1314292050-saw-blade-router-100_2211.jpg

I did try the HF arbor and it's not the best one made, far from it  rated 2 stars out of 10 stars. the error came from the slot type screw ,could not get it tight to hold the blade..and it would not spin the blade true ,once I did with a Allen flat head cap screw..

Note I got the blades for the tool below and it's rated at 2 stars out of 10 stars also..I think it's made to slice butter 

http://www.harborfreight.com/bench-top-cut-off-saw-42307.html
=====



boogalee said:


> Here is a 3 pack of 2" blades with a 3/8" arbor size and rated @ 13000 rpm.
> 
> Pack of 3 2" Cut-Off Wheels
> 
> ...


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Thanks for the reply Bob.

Based on what you said I think I will give it a shot with both the carbide tipped blade and without. I don't have a non VS router and the router I have in my table only goes down to 12,000 RPM. I will still give it a try while standing as clear as possible while feeding the box. 

I don't have one but I do wonder why a 1/16 thick Slotting router bit without a bearing wouldn't accomplish the same thing? I only use 3/8 or 1/2 maximum thick wood for my boxes and I do have a 1/8 slotting bit that will cut deeper than 1/2 inch.

Thanks again for your more than adequate explanations Bob and all the others that chimed in also.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

Your Welcome, the slotting bit/cutter will work just fine for 1/2" thick or smaller.

I also use the cutter below from time to time.

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-800-627-11-Tenon-Cutting-Router/dp/B000P4LKH8

" standing as clear as possible while feeding the box " no need it's just like doing on the table saw but a lot safer because the box is flat on the router table top..  can't tip over and take off like a rocket like on the table saw..

=========



Ken Bee said:


> Thanks for the reply Bob.
> 
> Based on what you said I think I will give it a shot with both the carbide tipped blade and without. I don't have a non VS router and the router I have in my table only goes down to 12,000 RPM. I will still give it a try while standing as clear as possible while feeding the box.
> 
> ...


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

This is a 24 tooth carbide blade.

Narrow 0.07" kerf
Arbor: 1/2" 
Speed: 14,000 RPM Max 


4", 24 Tooth Carbide Tipped Circular Saw Blade

Mike


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## taxque (Jun 30, 2009)

This is the blade I have:

Oshlun SBW-034024 3-3/8-Inch 24 Tooth ATB General Purpose and Trimming Saw Blade

It is available from amazon and is rated fro up to 14,400 rpm. 

I also got this one from Amazon:

3-1/8" Carbide Blade for "True Power" Mini-miter Saw

It is rated for 12,000 rpm.

Greg


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just a short how to do it,,,I needed a small box "junk box" for some parts under the router table and had some scrap pine in the shop, and I said this would be a good time to show how to cut off the top on any box safe and quick and easy way with the router table...

Once you have all the parts for the box and you have it glued up, chuck up a 1/4" wide router bit and drop the box on the bit for a slot,(1/2" deep for this hinge) for the hinge(s) , once you have that done chuck up the saw blade and push the box by the blade ,then put the spacers in place on the short end of the box and use some masking tape to hold them in place then push the box by the blade on the long side..
Just that quick you have the top off a slot for the hinge in place..

=========


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## allbarknobite (Sep 15, 2011)

*Harbor Freight sells a 4 inch blade*



mpbc48 said:


> Hello all,
> 
> I have seen a picture on this forum of a small circular saw blade attached to a router in a table setup. It is used to cut open wooden boxes. I think it was Bobj3's picture, but I'm sure anyone who makes boxes has one or knows about it.
> 
> ...


Mike,
I have several small blades for work as you describe, but I also have the MIGHTY-MITE 4-inch saw they work in. I only use the small saw for cutting thin stock. The blades are rated at 14000 rpm, but I would still have second thoughts of putting one on a router. 
Probably a slot cutter would work better and be a lot safer. I have used a 1/16" carbide slot cutter in my router without a problem. 
Mark


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey Mike

Take care buying a 4" blade,85% of the blade must be under the fence and in the pocket behind the fence,most router tables just don't have the room to spin the 4" blade/cutter, that's why I suggested and use the 3 3/8" blade.. 

The 3 3/8" blade will cut 3/4" thick stock easy the norm for most boxes and YES it is safe, it's just like a table saw but safe because the box is flat on the router table,I have done it on the band saw,table saw,RAS and they are not safe..not about to talk about the time it takes to clean up the saw marks left by the normal saws used for that job, most of the time you will need to cut one of the joints and the normal table saw will remove most of the stock in the joint  see pictures above) 

=======



mpbc48 said:


> This is a 24 tooth carbide blade.
> 
> Narrow 0.07" kerf
> Arbor: 1/2"
> ...


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hey Mike
> 
> Take care buying a 4" blade,85% of the blade must be under the fence and in the pocket behind the fence,most router tables just don't have the room to spin the 4" blade/cutter, that's why I suggested and use the 3 3/8" blade..
> 
> ...


Hi Bob, I hadn't thought about that, I was just trying to find blades that would handle router speeds. I didn't know about the 85%. I'd have to build up my sub-fences to do that.

I am a bit confused about the 85% though. With a 3 3/8" blade and 85% under the fence, you could only cut through 1/2" stock. Do you modify the fence somehow?

Mike


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

" Do you modify the fence somehow? "
Yes and No, I use the insert part on the fence, 85% would be the case on a 4" blade, the insert part I have will take on the 4" blade but most router tables can take it on..dust port is in the way on most of them..you can fix a sub fence that will push the blade out by 3/4" or so.. 

Just a note...I also use the same setup for biscuit jobs on the router table, I have many plate joinery machines but have not use one once I found out how easy it could be done on the router table..

http://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-tip-plate-joiner-replacement-blade-38840.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-3-8-eighth-inch-circular-saw-blade-95620.html

=====



mpbc48 said:


> Hi Bob, I hadn't thought about that, I was just trying to find blades that would handle router speeds. I didn't know about the 85%. I'd have to build up my sub-fences to do that.
> 
> I am a bit confused about the 85% though. With a 3 3/8" blade and 85% under the fence, you could only cut through 1/2" stock. Do you modify the fence somehow?
> 
> Mike


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

Hi Bob,

That makes sense. 

On the blades you link to, I see the joiner blade is rated for 12k but the circular saw is only 5500 rpm. Do you adjust your feed rate or isn't it a real safety issue running a 5500 rpm blade at 8k?

Thanks,
Mike


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I think so ,I have used it for many years and not one error..
http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/2243d1143756813-deep-spline-slot-jigs-s9d.jpg
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2482-deep-spline-slot-jigs.html#post26544

Think of it like over size slot cutter and I don't recall seeing a speed max rating for a slot cutter in the router table..


======



mpbc48 said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> That makes sense.
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

Just some pictures of the ones I forgot about, one was made on the lathe and one is a standard arbor, I used from a slot cutter , one is setup to cut off the tops and one is setup to cut dead on Spline stock with two blades stacked up with very little waste of stock...and all done on the router table , very safe and easy 

Just a note::: the Black washer is off some stock absorbers makes a great hold down device for the saw blades..waste not want not thing 

======


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

Hi Bob,

Thanks for all the pics and info. I will be using this method in the future.

Mike


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## FixitMike (Aug 14, 2011)

*Cutting the top off of the box.*

" it's that last cuts that makes it unsafe on the table saw..."

I use a table saw. The first two cuts are done on the longest sides of the box. The last two cuts are 1/32" short of all the way through on the short sides. Then I use a knife or fine hacksaw blade to finish the cut by hand and smooth with sand paper.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I did it the same way for a very long time then I got a router table, the router table can do so many jobs..

I will say it's Not for every one, it's for the expert router table user, in the picture above you will see the box after the top was removed no sanding done or needed most of the time..if done right..I didn't post a picture of the saw blade and the sand paper stuck to the blade for a super nice finish on the boxes, for hard wood boxes the norm...It will cut and sand the box all in a pass or two.
But you need to use a 5/16" router bit for the hinge slot.

It's just one more way to use the router table safe and easy..


======



FixitMike said:


> " it's that last cuts that makes it unsafe on the table saw..."
> 
> I use a table saw. The first two cuts are done on the longest sides of the box. The last two cuts are 1/32" short of all the way through on the short sides. Then I use a knife or fine hacksaw blade to finish the cut by hand and smooth with sand paper.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

This procedure is very safe on a tablesaw. Your material is always fully supported by the tablesaw top. That's both pieces (top & bottom) at all times during the cut. No shims or tape needed to compensate for the kerf to hold your top up against gravity. Set the fence for your top thickness & push thru as normal. I prefer to start with a short side if there is one & finish the cut on a long side. You can also cut a large top on a tablesaw. With the router table you are limited to the height adjustment. 

I've made tool cabinets that have recessed tops as large as 48"x48"x24". A little to bulky to use the router table safely. I will say for very small boxes Bob's way might be fine as the kerf is much smaller & the box much smaller. I would still use a table saw as it would save me time as I could have it cut before I got the tape & shims out.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just a note, most router tables have the mounting plate to the front side of the router table if you flip the fence around you will have a bigger foot print for the bigger boxes..

But a " 48"x48"x24" " maybe a bit to big that's the time you want to slip over to a hand router.. I know saying that will open a new can of worms... 

Note the picture with the blade and the big rub collar on the 1/2" shank..made for that type of job.. 

===
===


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Yes I'm sure that would open up another can of worms. I can still cut the top on the table saw much quicker than getting out tape, shims or setting up another router. Your material is always supported by the tablesaw top at all times. Your method for small boxes would be fine for some.


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## theexpozay (Oct 4, 2011)

Intellectually I see that this is no more or less scary than using a slot cutter or a table saw for that matter. All the same it just SEEMS like a REALLY bad idea.

Having once lost a fight with a table saw I have a VERY healthy respect for spinning blades...

That being said, I guess it is time to "man-up" and give it a try.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Michael

It is safe ,,,the box is always flat on the router table unlike the table saw and the blade is very small unlike most table saws blades...the slot in the router fence is very small unlike the table saw..plus it's just like a slot cutter but it can cut deeper than a slot cutter.
I didn't post a shot of the 4" blades I also use out of the biscuit slot machine that works very well for spline slots also ...for picture frames the norm..

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2482-deep-spline-slot-jigs.html
====



theexpozay said:


> Intellectually I see that this is no more or less scary than using a slot cutter or a table saw for that matter. All the same it just SEEMS like a REALLY bad idea.
> 
> Having once lost a fight with a table saw I have a VERY healthy respect for spinning blades...
> 
> That being said, I guess it is time to "man-up" and give it a try.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Michael
> 
> It is safe ,,,the box is always flat on the router table unlike the table saw


I'm confused by this. When is the box unsupported by the table on a table saw? Every time I've done this both pieces are always fully supported by the table.


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## CR1 (Aug 11, 2011)

I would not put a slitting saw on a drill press because of the taper holding the chuck.
Tapers are all self releasing. Tapers in machine tool applications are only intended for axial loading along the length of the spindle, not laterally. 

Side loading a taper and adding vibration to the load is a pretty likely way to get the taper to release. 
If that happened under power, the drill chuck, taper, and slitting saw would constitute a substantial spinning mass with oodles of inertia and the saw would be capable of doing some harm to any one nearby.

In the instance of a DP with a screw on chuck or a drawbar like a miller, all this is different. Then you only have to worry about whether the bearings were engineered for lateral loading. Usually they are not, but typically woodworking loads are not terribly heavy.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

True, But on a very small foot print the norm unlike the router table..

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jlord said:


> I'm confused by this. When is the box unsupported by the table on a table saw? Every time I've done this both pieces are always fully supported by the table.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi CR1

" slitting saw on a drill press "

Nor would I  but this thread is about a blade on the router table..

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CR1 said:


> I would not put a slitting saw on a drill press because of the taper holding the chuck.
> Tapers are all self releasing. Tapers in machine tool applications are only intended for axial loading along the length of the spindle, not laterally.
> 
> Side loading a taper and adding vibration to the load is a pretty likely way to get the taper to release.
> ...


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## CR1 (Aug 11, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi CR1
> 
> " slitting saw on a drill press "
> 
> ...


Yah it is. However there was a suggestion of putting a blade in a DP pror. 

Somewhere I saw a video of a horizontally mounted saw blade about 12" diameter being used b a luthier to cut out the thin wood for guitars Bloody scary, but it worked. 

I wonder how big a blade one could run on a router.


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