# Rate your personal experience with router bits ...



## riffin-rich (Feb 19, 2011)

Hello everyone. I'm relatively new to the woodworking scene but I learned years ago to buy the best I can afford (though I'm not even remotely independently wealthy). Anyway, my intention is to only buy this stuff once, so I'm hoping you can help me with my router bit selection... Can you share your experiences with the bits you own? Which stay sharp the longest? Do you have a favorite brand? Like, if you woke up tomorrow and all of your bits were gone, what would you want to replace them with? 

Also, I was at the woodworker show in Dulles, VA this past weekend (awesome)! ;-) Anyway, I saw Bad Dog drill bits in action ... incredible ... and free sharpening for the life of the bits!? (You just drop a couple of bucks in the envelope to return the bit). My buddy got a large box of bits for $250 (something like $5.36 per bit). Neither of us have any idea if they're great bits or not, but, I can't wait to hear what you all think. Thanks so much in advance!


----------



## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

Hello Rich,

I think you'll find that many recommend an inexpensive set to play with till you figure out what bits you want to spend good money on. 

You do get what you pay for, so for someone who isn't "independently wealthy", I only spend the "big bucks" on bits I'm going to use very frequently. ":^)

A cheap set can be had for under $2.00 per bit (probably even less) and are good enough to help learn what you like.

I've used Masterforce? (Menards), Vermont American, Craftsman, Bosch and Freud.

If I'm making quite a number of cuts, I'll spend the money on the Bosch or Freud.

Mike


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

"Buying once" doesn't really apply to bits, since even the best eventually get dull. Thus, it's more realistic to think of them as "consumables" - to be replaced as needed.

That said, I also lean toward buying quality bits to lengthen the service life. In that regard, I've found Whiteside or Eagle America bits to provide top quality. 

Router bit review - Fine Woodworking


----------



## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

I agree with Ralph and Mike, router bits are not and cannot even be made to be a buy once use forever item. No matter how good the quality, they do get dull and need to be replaced. Also note that like dull knives, dull router bits are dangerous.
However, they can be cleaned. I had a bit I used frequently and noticed it seemed to be getting dull, so I tried cleaning expecting that it would have only minimal effect. On the contrary, it cut almost like new. Hence I am going put another suggestion in the mix: clean the bits when they first seem to be getting dull. There are several sources for good cleaning solutions; I use one that does not require special shipping. (In another thread some may consider me to be an "environut" but my real motivation for using cleaning solutions that do not require special shipping is that I am a cheapskate and do not want to pay the extra shipping!)

However, the hardness of the wood is a major factor in router bit wear. I have used only the soft woods that also produce oils, gums, etc. and that is what is cleaned off the bits. There is a table of wood hardness using the Janka scale posted in the Wood Species subforum. One thing very striking is that many hardwoods are actually softer than the "softwoods".


----------



## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Tom

Some months back I did some research on bit cleaning fluids and came to the conclusion that the stuff sold as a general degreasant for kitchen surfaces, containing limonene rather than the old caustic types, worked perfectly well and was vastly cheaper than the proprietary bit cleaning products. It may well be the same thing. In the volumes that bit cleaning fluid suppliers go through, I'd bet they buy it in, rather than formulating and making their own. Give it a try. It's cheap enough and easily available.

Cheers

Peter


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I have bits from Sears, Canadian Tire (similar to Sears), Lee Valley, Freud, and Delta (which I was told is a CMT with different paint). I also have a bunch that I don't know who manufactured. In general, all perform acceptably. The best is the Delta, next is the Freud. The bits from Lee Valley are a really good compromise between price and performance.
As Mike suggested, buy a bargain set and replace the ones you wear out with better ones. Most sets will cover pretty much any general routing job, including dovetails. Specialty jobs, like rail and stile, you will have to purchase separately.


----------



## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

All good, so far. I got Freuds and Mastercraft (Canadian Tire) The only one I had resharpened was my Freud 3/4" straight bit, but I used it very heavily.


----------



## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Roger,

RE: Isa 44:13

Interesting how susceptible we woodworkers are to idolatry


----------



## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

In my experience Freud are exceptionally good value, but the very best of all must be Trend, although expensive they stay sharp longer and seem to never wear out,
derek.


----------



## riffin-rich (Feb 19, 2011)

Thanks so much for your fantastic inputs ... I've learned a lot from your posts -- about bits not lasting "forever" and how they can become dangerous when they get dull or even dirty. I'd still love to hear from more of you about the bits you recommend and even how you clean them. How do you know when it's time to clean them? Please share more and as always, thanks so much in advance!


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

riffin-rich said:


> Thanks so much for your fantastic inputs ... I've learned a lot from your posts -- about bits not lasting "forever" and how they can become dangerous when they get dull or even dirty. I'd still love to hear from more of you about the bits you recommend and even how you clean them. How do you know when it's time to clean them? Please share more and as always, thanks so much in advance!


Hi rich - instead of wrestling with whether or not they need cleaned, I got into a regimen of just cleaning it before I put it away. A quick brush with a brass or plastic bristle brush will usually do it. If it's on pretty thick, maybe a spritz of bit/blade cleaner and wipe off with a towel towel. If you let the stuff set on there awhile and it takes a set, you may need to soak them in bit/blade cleaner or a good household cleaner. I avoid really caustic cleaners such as oven/grill cleaners. Some use those but I'm not comfortable doing it. Don't soak the bearings, remove them and just wipe them off. If they need more than that a towel moistened with cleaner to clean them, squirt of WD-40 to flush any water and a drop or two of light oil.


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

riffin-rich said:


> Thanks so much for your fantastic inputs ... I've learned a lot from your posts -- about bits not lasting "forever" and how they can become dangerous when they get dull or even dirty. I'd still love to hear from more of you about the bits you recommend and even how you clean them. How do you know when it's time to clean them? Please share more and as always, thanks so much in advance!


The "dirt" on router bits is typically pitch and resins from the wood being cut. Often, you'll see a dark line forming at the cutting edge on the flat of the carbide as the gunk starts to build. I use a few drops of naphtha on a paper towel, sometimes aided by an old toothbrush to clean it off. Some folks, however, prefer to use Simple Green to clean bits and blades.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You can buy bit cleaner from just about anyone that sales router bits, it's cheap..
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Empire-Bit-Blade-Cleaner-16-oz/productinfo/BBCL-16OZ/
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/Empire-Bit-Blade-Cleaner-2-oz/productinfo/BBCL-2+0Z./

Just a little spray and wipe it off with a rag, and it's just like new, don't use WD40 on your bits it will not clean off the pitch the norm, WD40 is a lube not a cleaner, they also make lube for bits ...

========


----------



## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

I don't even buy bit cleaner, I have found that I can use the stuff I have around me instead, with very seriously dirty bits I use cellulose thinners, but I normally just spray with W.D.40.
Derek.


----------



## riffin-rich (Feb 19, 2011)

Sorry if this is a silly question, but what's a cellulose thinner vs. a "paint thinner" or is it the same thing? Thanks, Rich


----------



## jcr3 (Mar 12, 2011)

I started with Sears bits (set of maybe 20?) about 30 years ago and hated them, and altho they prob sell decent ones now, I havnt tried them again, so have used Amana and Freud ever since. Both are great when new and sharp...DONT burn them up tho, cuz they will never be the same again. John


----------



## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Rich,
Simply this, cellulose thinners is a thinners used to dilute cellulose paint, as used for spraying autos etc. It is very astringent and will normally clean and remove anything.
Derek.


----------



## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

I keep a 'soft' toothbrush in my router kit and use it both for cleaning the router and the bits. I get all the sawdust I can off the bits or the gears in the router before I use any WD-40 or mineral spirits.


----------



## woodjoiner (Mar 23, 2011)

Generally most of the time you get what you pay for and taking care of it will lengthen it's life. You can get a good quality bit for reasonable prices these days. 

It' a good idea to hold on to the old dull bits for when and if you ever shape MDF this material will dull a take the new edge right off a a bit, after all MDF is really a paper product and we know paper will dull a knife fast. You can use a old bit forever in MDF.


----------



## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

Rich, I just bought this set recently and they are working out great for me so far. They are not the real top of the line but I have run some of them thru pretty thick oak at a fairly high feed rate and they worked as good as my few high $$ bits, and there is a big selection of bits to try and see what you need and use the most and then you can buy better ones when they wear out. I got mine on sale but at the current price you still only pay less than $3 per bit for these. You also might find this set on ebay for a lower price.

66 PC Router Bit Set ¼" Shank | Elite Tools The link shows 1/4" shank but the actual page is for a 1/2" shank set.

Also they come from Canada so it took about 10 days for me to get them.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi
You also may want to take a look at the bit set below with free shipping.

Amazon.com: Neiko 80-Piece Premium-Grade 1/2 Inch Tungsten Carbide Router Bit Set - 3 and 2 Blade - Aluminum Case: Home Improvement

======


----------



## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

Bob, I was going to buy that set from Sears but they took it of the website and the guy in the tool dept at the local store said they had almost every set sold returned. Thats when I went with the elite set. Not sure what experince others have had with them , just what I was told by the local Sears guy.


----------



## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

Racer2007 said:


> Bob, I was going to buy that set from Sears but they took it of the website and the guy in the tool dept at the local store said they had almost every set sold returned. Thats when I went with the elite set. Not sure what experince others have had with them , just what I was told by the local Sears guy.


Wow Just checked Sears website and this and the 50 piece set are both back on the site.


----------



## riffin-rich (Feb 19, 2011)

Everyone, forgive me for reposting this from a different thread but I just wanted to be sure to thank you ... I continue to look forward to your contributions to each of my threads. Thank you so much for being so helpful! Sorry I'm a pain in the rear-end with all of my questions ... I'm a bit needy as I'm trying to learn "everything that you guys have learned over your lifetimes from the confines of my couch over a few short weeks." Silly, I know, but I'm doing the reading thing while I wait for all of my toys to arrive. I want to keep reading before I play. ;-) Thanks again! -Rich


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

derek willis said:


> Rich,
> Simply this, cellulose thinners is a thinners used to dilute cellulose paint, as used for spraying autos etc. It is very astringent and will normally clean and remove anything.
> Derek.


Derek,

By cellulose paint do you mean nitrocellulose lacquer? That's a auto spray paint here... I'm thinking your cellulose thinner may be our lacquer thinner, a strong astringent.


----------



## woodjoiner (Mar 23, 2011)

riffin-rich said:


> Everyone, forgive me for reposting this from a different thread but I just wanted to be sure to thank you ... I continue to look forward to your contributions to each of my threads. Thank you so much for being so helpful! Sorry I'm a pain in the rear-end with all of my questions ... I'm a bit needy as I'm trying to learn "everything that you guys have learned over your lifetimes from the confines of my couch over a few short weeks." Silly, I know, but I'm doing the reading thing while I wait for all of my toys to arrive. I want to keep reading before I play. ;-) Thanks again! -Rich


Hey Rich don't worry about it, I think I for most of we are here to learn also. I think I heard many years ago, if the day comes that you think you know all there is to learn then you you still have something to learn. 

Life's to short just sit back and enjoy the ride.


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Rich - don't worry about being "needy". Asking questions is the best way to get different perspectives on potential solutions to a problem. Even those of us with many decades of experience can learn from the discussions here . . . if we keep our minds open to the different perspectives.


----------



## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Jim,
You are probably right, two languages with but one origin.
Derek.


----------



## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I use Trend, CMT and MLCS bits. I keep them clean and hobe them on the flats with a thin diamond plate sharpener.


----------



## TomE (Dec 17, 2010)

Don't have a favorite brand in particular but I do have Stanley, CMT, Bosch, Freud, Festool, MLCS, Amana, Whiteside, Eagle, Pricecutter, Katana and other cutters that I can't recall what brands off hand.

The most impressive looking I've seen is Jesada. Years ago I bought a plywood and rabbet set from them and I've never seen a more polished grind on any other brand that I've experienced. The grind was literally a mirror finish. They were high end price at the time and have yet to replace them but value/performance wise I doubt that they are any better than the other big brands.

Like many others I also keep bits clean. Toothbrush, Q-tip with "solvent", sometimes pick at 'em with my pocket knife, rub them with a slice of crepe rubber and a shot of Dri-cote before they go back into the drawer.


----------



## Travst (Apr 19, 2011)

Thanks for the tips on cleaning, particularly on cleaning them before storage. I wasn't aware that cleaning was so effective. I expect that I'll be cleaning bits before AND after use till I get caught up.


----------



## GarethHarvey (Apr 2, 2011)

I buy Trend bits and have never had a problem, they are very well made. Trend also offer a service where they will make a bit to your plan / specification for a few £ extra (this I found out recently). I do sometimes buy cheaper bits for one off jobs where a specific profile is required.


----------



## woodjoiner (Mar 23, 2011)

Hi Rich, it has been my experience that nothing lasts forever in this world we live in. When it comes to how they become dangerous, well at the speeds at which they turn a small piece of the carbide can chip off and hit you with enough force to embed itself in you. Things happen, that's the reason eye and clothing protection is important.

The best bits are the hardest carbide and while the hardest carbide will stay sharper longer they are more brittle and will chip easier. Keeping your bits free of pitch or resin build up will prolong the life and keeping a diamond file on hand to hit the flat side of the bit won't hurt either.

As far as what to use to keep them clean, well whatever works for you or whatever you feel safest using to clean with works best. Different strokes for different folks.


----------



## riffin-rich (Feb 19, 2011)

This has definitely been an informative thread and I thank you all for your contributions! I ultimately purchased a rather large assortment of 1/2" Whiteside Machine Co. bits from Alan Campbell at Woodworkersworld.net. I am very pleased with Alan and the service he provided--I will definitely return for more/repeat business. Thanks to your posts, I also purchased 5 brass brushes, 2 bottles of blade/bit cleaner, 2 cans of bearing lube spray, and 2 cans of Dricote. Thanks again! -Rich


----------



## crazycol (Feb 13, 2007)

i have mostly trend and freud cutters, both are good quality.
i have a couple no about ten whiteside bits, also nice quality.
i also have a rail and style set from jesada, and by god they are the best quality i have used so for.


----------



## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

I too have been using WD40 or equivalent and it gets all residue off with just a rag and sometimes a fingernail. Then I spray again and lightly wipe off before picking them up.


----------



## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Must be a louisiana thing I use wd-40 also clean with rag and light coat before storing I guess it is the moisture in the air


----------

