# Is it Fixable?????



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

It's gotten worse. My trusty old Craftsman 113 series TS is very sick. Just running a piece of pine thru it will cause the blade to actually stop. Can back it off a little and cut a little further. When I start it up it "growels a little and then smooths out. Start cutting and the noise comes back and the blade can be stopped with a little bit of pressure. I took the belt off - the motor runs smooth and quiet. Put a new belt on and that didn't help. The noise sounds like it's coming from under the table. The blade has no play in it whatsoever and it all looks good. I got to have a TS so until I either get this one fixed or replaced I may be forced (shudder at the thought) to get a contractors saw from a big box store. Any ideas or suggestions? This has been a great old saw.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Sounds bad.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

look to the motor...
if it it is see about repairing it or replacing it it w/ a motor that *ISN'T* Asian...


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

With the belt off the motor runs very smooth and quiet. The noise is under the table where the trunion is.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

honesttjohn said:


> Just running a piece of pine thru it will cause the blade to actually stop.


Does just the blade stop, or does the motor shaft stop as well?

Centrifugal, thermal, and capacitor switches cause most single-phase motor malfunctions

Without knowing the motor type, I would guess centrifugal switch. Motor works fine with no load, but has now power once speed drops. I think if it was a saw problem you would have mentioned smoking belts.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

kp91 said:


> Does just the blade stop, or does the motor shaft stop as well?
> Motor works fine with no load, but has now power once speed drops. I think if it was a saw problem you would have mentioned smoking belts.


No smoking belts. When the blade stops the motor "binds" as well. Would low power from the motor cause the noise under the table? Once wound up it runs great but the noise comes back when cutting or stopping and starting.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Is this a contractor saw with the motor hanging out the bak or a direct driver with motor in the cabinet.

If it is the motor get the next size larger when you replace it you will never regret it.

Are you on 120v. or 220v.?
Herb


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Motor hangs out the back. Belt driven. One of the good ones. Don't really want to get rid of it. But, I am on 110.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

With the belt off, spin the blade (using a stick to protect your fingers). It should run freely and slow down very gradually.
I think yours wont. If the bearing(s) on the blade spindle are blocked with sawdust the blade will stop quickly, or you will hear the grinding noise.

Most saw motors are underpowered, using the centrifugal force of the blade to keep going. What you have is a brake on the blade stopping it reaching full speed.
The fact the motor stops when the blade does shows that the motor is underpowered.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

If that's the case, can I blow it out, or do I have to take it apart and possibly replace bearings? It worked great until just recently. The problem was sudden, at least it seemed to be. And there was a lot of sawdust under the table.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

John; this is your opportunity to treat yourself to a brand spankin' new saw! Seize the moment!!


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Can't afford the Grizz I want (and it's heavy). Besides, this one is set up in the basement, and I kinda like the old girl. Real Iron, motor, and belt!!


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Cant tell from here, dont know your machine at all..

I would take the bearings out and replace. If youre happy with the saw in all other respects then change them. Bearings are peanuts to buy and are not usually difficult to remove.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Too bad @AxlMyk hasn't posted recently, he does great restoration work and he's in your neck of the woods.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Most likely bearings or lots of crud in them. Spin the blade without the motor and listen to it.

As a precaution, take it apart and give rhe ole girl a good cleaning...you will fi,d the problem doing that.

If it's bearings, you will find replacements even if not by Sears number...all bearings are numbered and can be found by size of ID or Od and width 

Give it a shot...surprise...

And if then you also find the motor is bad, you can replace it.

Had you changed the blade...? Put washers back in properly...? Any signs of rubbing anywhere...?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

test the motor before you run off on a tangent...


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## Bushwhacker (Jun 16, 2009)

This is what we if the Army called a "When I!"
now when I finally found and visited my dad after over 20 years "he and my mom divorced while I was in the service.
After our visit, he felt he needed to give me something. He took out into his back yard and there under a sheet of heavy plastic, was a "Craftsman TS.
It was just a complete block of rust from being outdoors in Illinois for several years.
It was super heavy and blocky. It was a 24 inch square.
I carried it back to Texas and cleaned it up. 
I used it on many job sites and the main problem I had with it was the bearings kept burning out.
Plus the brushes would not last very long.
The guide for it was broken and I used a piece of 2x4 clamped to the top.
The first time I went to Sears for bearings. We had to search the microfiche to find the parts numbers. 
They were in just 2 digits, like number 52 and number 62.
This was a very old TS.
I finally gave it to a neighbor and he fixed it up again and kept it until he died. No idea of what became of it then.


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## woodworker47 (Dec 19, 2008)

John,

I have a 1948 craftsman TS. It was my Dads. I replaced the original motor with a 2HP Baldor. With a Forest blade, I can cut any wood that I want. The only problem is that the motor housing is larger than the original. When I tilt the blade to 45 degree, the motor housing is above the table. It limits the width of wood that I can cut, but has not been a major problem. If you do replace the motor, size of motor housing can be a problem.

Frank


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## John Bradshaw (Sep 12, 2010)

honesttjohn said:


> It's gotten worse. My trusty old Craftsman 113 series TS is very sick. Just running a piece of pine thru it will cause the blade to actually stop. Can back it off a little and cut a little further. When I start it up it "growels a little and then smooths out. Start cutting and the noise comes back and the blade can be stopped with a little bit of pressure. I took the belt off - the motor runs smooth and quiet. Put a new belt on and that didn't help. The noise sounds like it's coming from under the table. The blade has no play in it whatsoever and it all looks good. I got to have a TS so until I either get this one fixed or replaced I may be forced (shudder at the thought) to get a contractors saw from a big box store. Any ideas or suggestions? This has been a great old saw.


honesttjohn, My saw that I don't use is 113.298051, need a new capacitor. The motor is inside. If you were close to Texas, it would help, because I could get it to you, and repair for $13.00 and use. Oh well.


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

John what kind of pulleys has the TS? I also have a Craftsman TS and had similar issues, I changed the aluminum pulleys to cast iron machined pulleys and fixed the problem. :wink:


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Trusty OLD table saw. Old is the operative term. I'd start by cleaning out (non flamable solvent might help since the clog has been cooked in place for years. Then comes lubricating the arbor bearings with a dry lube, then checking for runout with a known flat blade in place. More than a few thousanths suggests bearing wear problems and no matter what else was going on, I'd replace them. Lots of good suggestions here. Personally, next I'd remove the motor and take it to a local motor repair place and have them look it over--capacitor, brushes, coils. If it is repairable, have them do it, or consider a replacement. Compare repair cost with a new replacement motor with max 110v hp motor that fits. 

I'm not really interested in doing my own repairs at this point in my life, did enough of that when I was young and poor and drove old cars, so I'd rather pay a little for someone skilled to do it. But if you're comfortable doing it yourself, most of the likely problems are fairly easy to fix yourself, and there are plenty of helpful YouTube videos to guide you.

It is unlikely that you'll get as good a saw at a big box as what you'll have for the price of the repair.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It could be the trunnion bearings . Take the belts off so that there is no drag from the motor and see if the blade turns freely with zero resistance. If there is any resistance at all replace the bearings.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

RÖENTGEEP said:


> John what kind of pulleys has the TS? I also have a Craftsman TS and had similar issues, I changed the aluminum pulleys to cast iron machined pulleys and fixed the problem. :wink:


I believe they are aluminum pullys. I'm leaning towards the bearings being packed with sawdust. The guy that had it before me enclosed the bottom with a vacuum port. That became clogged with small cutoffs and a lot of dust did build up underneath the table. Will try and get it all cleaned and blown out, and then test the resistance of the blade with the belt off. The motor sounds great when the belt is off. I do have a set of arbor bearings sitting here. But I don't want to tear it apart if I don't have to. I have this knack of not being able to put things back together right or having parts left over.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

honesttjohn said:


> I have this knack of not being able to put things back together right or having parts left over.


One thing people overlook when doing repairs is most have a cell phone with them that will take good pictures. 

Before you start the repair take pictures and make sure they are clear and not so blury that you can't see what they are. Then as the repair progresses take a picture now and then especially if you uncover new parts. 

Then when you get ready to put it back together refer to the pictures to jog your memory(if you remember you took pictures).


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

MEBCWD said:


> One thing people overlook when doing repairs is most have a cell phone with them that will take good pictures.
> 
> Before you start the repair take pictures and make sure they are clear and not so blury that you can't see what they are. Then as the repair progresses take a picture now and then especially if you uncover new parts.
> 
> Then when you get ready to put it back together refer to the pictures to jog your memory(if you remember you took pictures).


Good Call Mike. :smile:


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

MEBCWD said:


> One thing people overlook when doing repairs is most have a cell phone with them that will take good pictures.
> 
> Before you start the repair take pictures and make sure they are clear and not so blury that you can't see what they are. Then as the repair progresses take a picture now and then especially if you uncover new parts.
> 
> Then when you get ready to put it back together refer to the pictures to jog your memory(if you remember you took pictures).


That takes all the fun out of it.
Herb


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> That takes all the fun out of it.
> Herb


Yes it takes all the fun out of it and you don't have all those extra parts left that you can use on other projects. :smile::surprise::wink:


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Who doesn't like having spare parts on hand?!


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Who doesn't like having spare parts on hand?!


Besides I don't have a cell phone and my landline won't take good enough pictures, also 35mm film is getting expensive,if I can find it, (Just Kidding).
Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"... my landline won't take good enough pictures..."
????
Where do you load the film?


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

MEBCWD said:


> One thing people overlook when doing repairs is most have a cell phone with them that will take good pictures.
> 
> Then when you get ready to put it back together refer to the pictures to jog your memory(if you remember you took pictures).



I knew that memory thing would come into play somehow. Darn!


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> "... my landline won't take good enough pictures..."
> ????
> Where do you load the film?


Ooh...my next upgrade...


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

OK - - think I got it narrowed down. Cleaned the undercarriage out real good, disconnected the belt and spun the blade. Smooth as could be, no drag at all, coasted to a stop with no drag whatsoever. Blade is nice and tight with absolutely no play or wiggle. Guess that makes Stick and Nick spot on. Got to be the motor. The one on there has a 5/8 shaft and 2 1/2 inch pulley and turns at 3450 rpm, I believe. Do I try and find a shop to rebuild this one or replace it? Got choices anywhere from Harbor Freight to Home Depot (?) to Tractor Supply. Cost for a new one anywhere from $150 to $300. Can also buy a new direct drive contractor saw for $4-500 or so. But I kinda like this old girl.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

I would check the capacitors or centrifugal switch. The motor ran quietly with no load, so it may still be salvageable for cheap.

If not, I put the 2hp harbor freight motor on a contractor saw in 2003, and it is still doing OK as far as I hear from its new owner. You can also see beat up old table saws on Craigslist, they might have a decent motor.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

John have you tried to old fashioned way of checking the bearings or anything else that might go boink when running. Maybe you can't do this.

Take a big screwdriver and stick the metal end on the bearing (if possible). Put yer ear to the handle end and listen for any wayward sound. Used to work if you had a lifter sticking! 

UGH! this guy might be a tad goofy, but he explains it better than I can.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

honesttjohn said:


> OK - - think I got it narrowed down. Cleaned the undercarriage out real good, disconnected the belt and spun the blade. Smooth as could be, no drag at all, coasted to a stop with no drag whatsoever. Blade is nice and tight with absolutely no play or wiggle. Guess that makes Stick and Nick spot on. Got to be the motor. The one on there has a 5/8 shaft and 2 1/2 inch pulley and turns at 3450 rpm, I believe. Do I try and find a shop to rebuild this one or replace it? Got choices anywhere from Harbor Freight to Home Depot (?) to Tractor Supply. Cost for a new one anywhere from $150 to $300. Can also buy a new direct drive contractor saw for $4-500 or so. But I kinda like this old girl.


go back and read the PDF's I posted...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I would just get a new motor and put it on and get back to wood working, Put an ad in CL "FREE MOTOR U-FIX" and someone who loves to work on old worn out electrical stuff will surely call. Look at it this way you got 40 years out of it ,it paid for itself, set it free.

Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> I would just get a new motor and put it on and get back to wood working, Put an ad in CL "FREE MOTOR U-FIX" and someone who loves to work on old worn out electrical stuff will surely call. Look at it this way you got 40 years out of it ,it paid for itself, set it free.
> 
> Herb


Herb...
it may only need a start/run switch or a capacitor...
way cheaper than a new motor and really easy fixes......
but again this gives him a chance to upgrade...
more HP and dual belts...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> Herb...
> it may only need a start/run switch or a capacitor...
> way cheaper than a new motor and really easy fixes......
> but again this gives him a chance to upgrade...
> more HP and dual belts...


So you fix that ,then the bearings go out,you install new bearings and the capacitor goes out .
Give it up, Who wants to spend all that time messing with a worn out motor, Give it to some dude that wants to save all the decrepit old motors in the world.
He loves his saw, put a new motor in it , fixed end of story,good for another 10-20 years. These new contractor saws are good but they won't out last like the old Craftsman cast iron saws, and he loves his old saw.
Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> So you fix that ,then the bearings go out,you install new bearings and the capacitor goes out .
> Give it up, Who wants to spend all that time messing with a worn out motor, Give it to some dude that wants to save all the decrepit old motors in the world.
> He loves his saw, put a new motor in it , fixed end of story,good for another 10-20 years. These new contractor saws are good but they won't out last like the old Craftsman cast iron saws, and he loves his old saw.
> Herb


it's all about costs...
bearings and capacitors are easy to change and cheap in comparison to the cost of new motors...


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Check the pulley on the saw arbor. I had something similar happen to my 113 saw a few years ago, and the pulley had a big crack in it, and partially bent over. I put a cast iron pulley back on, and has been running great since. Grizzly sells pulleys fairly inexpensively, which is where I got mine.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> it's all about costs...
> bearings and capacitors are easy to change and cheap in comparison to the cost of new motors...



New motors are a lot cheaper than new saws that have a ton of features ,but made out of plastic and aluminum and so called safety features that hinder rather than help compared to the time proven old basic cast iron machine , which will cost mega bucks in todays market.
I have a Bosch 4100 contractors saw and like it. But every time I start it up and use it , I have the feeling this saw will never last as long as my old 1945 craftsman contractors saw I lost in the fire, and used it til 2012 and it was still going strong. My main saw is a cast iron Craftsman hybrid saw and I love it.

Respectfully,
Herb


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Found motors anywhere from $150 (HF) to over $500 (Grainger). Most would involve having to change the pulley because of either shaft size or RPM speed, and probably make a new mounting bracket. But.........Northern Tool has a 1 hp for $300 with the same RPM speed, shaft size, encased, made for table saws, and mounting bracket. It's a Lesson, made in USA. $50 more gets a 1.5 hp. It'll be here next week.

Will also check the arbor pulley in the meantime.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Go for the 1.5 John. You'll thank yourself later.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Go for the 1.5 John. You'll thank yourself later.


I did!!!


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

MikeMa said:


> Check the pulley on the saw arbor. I had something similar happen to my 113 saw a few years ago, and the pulley had a big crack in it, and partially bent over. I put a cast iron pulley back on, and has been running great since. Grizzly sells pulleys fairly inexpensively, which is where I got mine.



Pulley Looks Fine.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

honesttjohn said:


> Pulley Looks Fine.


does it slip on the shaft at all???
or the pulley at the blade???


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

No slipping or play on any of the pulleys or shafts.

And that motor is a Leeson, not Lesson.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Didn't even notice the typo. I think most of us knew what you meant. Leeson and Baldor are both very dependable motors. Those would be my two first choices.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Didn't even notice the typo. I think most of us knew what you meant. Leeson and Baldor are both very dependable motors. Those would be my two first choices.


USA made Marathon are really good too...


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Tractor supply sells Marathons -- About $100 cheaper than the Leeson. But the shaft size was different and they had a lot of bad reviews for failures. And they were in stock 10 miles away. Was tempted. But this Leeson is a regular table saw motor so the most I should have to do is maybe reverse the pulley direction and wire it for 110.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

all the companies we talked about both have USA made and off shore built motors under their labels..
it's the off shore motors that get the dander up more often than not..


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

I've got one of these Sears Contractor Saws from last century. I recently had a noise problem which turned out to be the bearings....had touble getting it apart so I had a bearing shop do the replacement ( Thank You Stick). Saw works fine now but I'm thinking a new motor is in its future. Current motor is 1 hp. I thought about a larger hp motor but read that I should not do that. I have the label from the original motor box and Sears still has a replacement. I thought it was the chasis or frame size that had to be matched? Anything else?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

the chassis/frame size that has to be matched...
up the HP ½~1... did mine by 1HP and never looked back...
bearings and motors from Sears will be ultra economy.... out source and get far better....


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The one other issue is motor rotation direction, i.e. clockwise (CW) or counter clockwise (CCW).


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

The more "specs" you can provide from the original motor the better. Aftermarket Mfg's have spec sheets on their motors that can provide far more info than you will ever need. BUT, alot of those specs will tell you if their motor will work or not in any given application. The nameplate on your motor pretty much tells you what you got and as a general rule of thumb what you need when you go to replace it. 
Deviating from OEM specs obviously changes things. Anywhere from not even noticeable to oh damn!! I would not exceed increasing HP by more than 1hp..more due to the newly available increase in torque than anything else. The additional torque increase in HP may be a blessing at the blade and could be the kiss of death on the equipment's chassis/frame at start-up over time. 
Make sure your amp specs are within what your shop current is capable of handling. Both in terms of heat and load. 
Frame specs let you do an apples to apples mount of the new motor (usually). Shaft rotation (cw/ccw) is a biggie. It can be worked around, but often more hassel than its worth. Shaft diameter and length. You need to get the sheave/pulley mounted in the right position. Motor RPM really should be within OEM specs. unless you really know what the hell your doing and why. Sheave/pulley diameters need to be compatible with existing assemblies. You can really change things and not for the better if this is way off. Most mfg's. do NOT over engineer their tools to the point of allowing for extensive power increases. IMHO!! Unless its old iron, then you could probably put on a Saturn V rocket on the thing and just stand back.. Motor diameter and length can be another concern when space is an issue. 
Alot of this may seem like alot of knit-picking and for the most part might be, but by doing just a little homework and getting it right from the start will save time and money later on...at least that's my cup of coffee's worth..


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

Ken is thinking the brushes might be going/gone?


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Barb, 
Sears is selling what they call a "substitute" motor, which will fit and work. No brand name or details on it. For the same price I'm getting the Leeson with an additional 1/2 horse of power. Same shaft size, rpm, and looks like a workable mounting bracket. We shall see. I may just end up with an extra motor, and then have to make something to put it in.

You guys want the old motor, if that's it, just to see if Ken can make somethng out of it? Runs smooth and quiet, just will bind up when putting a board thru at what I consider a "normal" speed if not careful. Might be able to be saved. 

Now, if the new one does the same thing, that makes me look like a real $350 poorer idiot.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

John...

I'd be real Leary about the Sears "substitute" motor!!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TwoSkies57 said:


> John...
> 
> I'd be real Leary about the Sears "substitute" motor!!


me too...


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

The Leeson shipped on Friday. Sears quality has gone downhill as it is, let alone what they're buying as "substitute" parts.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

honesttjohn said:


> Runs smooth and quiet, just will bind up when putting a board thru at what I consider a "normal" speed if not careful. Might be able to be saved.


Binds up under load. That reminds me of a starter motor on a piece of equipment I had. It turned out that the armature bushings had worn so bad that when energized it would get pulled into the field coils.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

honesttjohn said:


> The Leeson shipped on Friday. Sears quality has gone downhill as it is, let alone what they're buying as "substitute" parts.


Can you post the specs of the new and old motors?


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Which ones you want?


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

JIMMIEM said:


> Can you post the specs of the new and old motors?


The old ones would be helpful to see if I have the same motor. The new ones to make sure I order the same motor.
Thank You


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Go to Northern Tool's website and you can see the Leesons. They both have 5/8 shaft, 3450 rpm, mounting brackets look compatible. The horse and a half is item # 152811. They also make a 1 horse. Besides the extra power the only difference I see is the Leeson can be wire for 110 or 220 and can be set for CW or CCW rotation. The Leeson also comes encased to let less dust inside. My Sears was just a plain motor, but I don't know if it's the original one, either. The only other numbers on it are Model 820030 and CB1242. We'll see!! 

That's about all I can tell you.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

honesttjohn said:


> Go to Northern Tool's website and you can see the Leesons. They both have 5/8 shaft, 3450 rpm, mounting brackets look compatible. The horse and a half is item # 152811. They also make a 1 horse. Besides the extra power the only difference I see is the Leeson can be wire for 110 or 220 and can be set for CW or CCW rotation. The Leeson also comes encased to let less dust inside. My Sears was just a plain motor, but I don't know if it's the original one, either. The only other numbers on it are Model 820030 and CB1242. We'll see!!
> 
> That's about all I can tell you.


Thank You


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Want a pic?


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

honesttjohn said:


> Want a pic?


Yes, please and thank you


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Help you Jim?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

honesttjohn said:


> Go to Northern Tool's website and you can see the Leesons. They both have 5/8 shaft, 3450 rpm, mounting brackets look compatible. The horse and a half is item # 152811. They also make a 1 horse. Besides the extra power the only difference I see is the Leeson can be wire for 110 or 220 and can be set for CW or CCW rotation. The Leeson also comes encased to let less dust inside. My Sears was just a plain motor, but I don't know if it's the original one, either. The only other numbers on it are Model 820030 and CB1242. We'll see!!
> 
> That's about all I can tell you.


Any shop tool motor should be a TEFC type, i.e. Totally Enclosed Fan Cooled. In the pic of the motor you'll also see a duty rating and it should be 100% or CONTinous. Some motors are only rated for periodic duty with a cooling off period in between. The wires in a motor are insulated with a varnish or lacquer coating and motors that are ODP (Open Drip Proof) have exposed windings that will eventually get plugged up with dust which will cause them to overheat and melt the insulation causing them to short out.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Well, I may have "overfixed" my situation or not fixed it enough. 
The new motor got here today, and after an afternoon of trying to get it wired right for CW and 110v - tested before I started twisting bolts. New one went right on (only thing it doesn't have a pully cover like the old one). Bracket lined up and everything. Fired her up and still got a noise and it didn't cut worth a darn, still hanging up. 
Started taking the top off, dropped the trunion and found the arbor pulley up against the trunion. The hex bolt had slipped off the key. It wasn't loose when I checked it earlier like suggested, but it wasn't right. Of course, it's a bear to get to. Don't know if the pulley or arbor shaft is bad, but I went ahead and used a wooden block and pounded it back on the key, put the hexbolt back in and put it back together. Fired her up and that new horse and a half Leeson was making dust. Don't know if it'll last, but I'll give it a good workout. Probably didn't even need the new motor, but the new one sure sings. Don't know what I'm gonna do if it happens again. It's probably more trouble to replace that pulley and shaft than to just get a whole trunion set up. We shall see.

At least the old motor, with a cord and plug, is still good sitting in the corner waiting for some use.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Found the problem with the Sears 113. The pulley on the arbor shaft keeps slipping. I've been just slisding it back on and re-tightening the locking screw to get thru what I had to get done. Now it's worse than ever. I got the pulley off finally, but the key is stuck in the slot. How do I get the key out?? I haven't taken the thing apart. Been trying to do it from behind and underneath. Don't know if the pulley is shot or if it is just the key. Any ideas how to get the key out??


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You can try gripping it with vise grips and tapping the vise grips with a hammer or you can try using a pin punch and tapping the end of the key. It's probably seized from corrosion so a penetrating oil may help too. Sometimes Coca Cola pored on it will work too. The acid in the Coke eats through the corrosion given some time. That was a trick that tire men used to use when split rims were still common. They would lay the tire and rim flat and pour Coke on the retaining ring.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Proper tool is a wheel puller. It may be cheaper to rent than buy if you don't have one.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

honesttjohn said:


> Help you Jim?


Picture did not post.

Jim


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## RÖENTGEEP (Feb 18, 2014)

honesttjohn said:


> Found the problem with the Sears 113. The pulley on the arbor shaft keeps slipping. I've been just slisding it back on and re-tightening the locking screw to get thru what I had to get done. Now it's worse than ever. I got the pulley off finally, but the key is stuck in the slot. How do I get the key out?? I haven't taken the thing apart. Been trying to do it from behind and underneath. * Don't know if the pulley is shot or if it is just the key*. Any ideas how to get the key out??


If the pulley is aluminum, I bet its shot, change for a new cast iron machined one. :wink: 

oops I mentioned this in post #20


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Got the key to pop out. Ended up drilling a hole in the side and "persuaded" it to come out with a big screw driver and a couple well placed taps with a hammer. 

The key is totally shot. Will have the pulley looked at by someone who knows about such things and replace it if necessary. It is aluminum. Didn't see any obvious cracks but there was a reason it was slipping off the arbor shaft. The pulley is 2 1/2 " . Shouldn't be too hard to find one.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

John, just replace it. It's past its 'Best before' date, and doesn't owe you anything.
Even a machined one isn't expensive.
Machined Steel Pulleys


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

When I switched my contractor saw over to machine pulleys my saw ran a lot smoother as I had aluminum before. I bought my pulleys from In-Line Industries | Home of the Original Dubby Cross Cut Sled

I also used their link belt.


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