# Where To get 1/2" straight bit thats 2" long?



## Schappy (Dec 27, 2008)

I cant seem to find one of these online.

Im using it for a guitar Im making.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Hello Schappy,You may want to look into the Spiral bits. Some of them are about 1/2 by 2 in. Was paging through Sommerfelds, ad they have them


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

Super Carbide Tools over on eBay has pretty good prices and I've been overall pleased with the service and quality.

eBay Store - Super Carbide Tools: Single bit, 2 pc Set, Set

Two notes, I am not a heavy user of the bits so I have not needed to sharpen yet. And as near as I can tell, he does not sell spiral bits, only straight cutters.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Here's just one or two that will do it for you 

1 pc 1/2" SH 2" Blade Extra Long Flush Trim Router Bit - eBay (item 140326874642 end time Jun-20-09 16:52:59 PDT)

1 pc 1/2" SH 3" Extra Long Flush Trim Router Bit - eBay (item 130312816108 end time Jun-21-09 21:03:16 PDT)

1pc 1/2" SH 3/8"Dia. 3" Extra Long Straight Router Bit - eBay (item 140322670461 end time Jun-22-09 12:46:54 PDT)

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Schappy said:


> I cant seem to find one of these online.
> 
> Im using it for a guitar Im making.


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## Schappy (Dec 27, 2008)

Would it be OK to use one of this bits in a handheld router?

Some people have said there are safety issues when using such a long bit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Schappy

The only safety issues I can think of ,the bit can't be pull back into router , you must keep your head on when you use them ,like when you put the router down..or when you start them up... 

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Schappy said:


> Would it be OK to use one of this bits in a handheld router?
> 
> Some people have said there are safety issues when using such a long bit.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

i wouldn't use in a hand held They will pull you You don't have a edge to keep it on a streight line or in a circle Unless a beiring is used on the bit just my 2cents


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI del

They work great with the brass guides, or with the ski jig and/or with a plunge router setup and the template way  i.e. a deep box,without any joints on the corners....or if you want to put in a DEEP mortis slot and run a spline in on the out side of the joint ( drive and lock spine/wedge)
pictures below are of a table support sides,with a lock in stretcher 2" thick stock..
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del schisler said:


> i wouldn't use in a hand held They will pull you You don't have a edge to keep it on a streight line or in a circle Unless a beiring is used on the bit just my 2cents


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

I've used a 2" bearing guided bit hand held. It would not retract fully into the plunge base so you must do as BobJ3 says and keep your head screwed on tight. 

Know in advance which way you plan to route, if you need to stop part way through and flip the template to the other side for example. Know that your bit isn't going to be covered so have the router in place and supported on the workpiece but bit un-fettered when you start the router. Likewise, keep the router supported by the workpiece and let the bit spin down before you move away. 

Yeah, some guys here will tell you they set the router on its head after turning off and the bit is still going. Might get away with it all your life, our you might get bit (no pun intended). The extra 20 seconds of waiting just isn't worth saving if it causes an accident.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Why do you need one that is so long? The guitar body is only a max of 2" thick. If you are using a template for the body shape, a 2" pattern bit wit a 1/2" dia bearing will be fine. For the neck pocket, pickup cavities and control recess, shorter bits will work, especially in a plunge router.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

They don't make a 2" long pattern bit with a 1/2" OD bearing ,that I know about.. the 1/4" shank can't take the load and it needs to be 1/4" shank to carrier the 1/2" OD bearing to match the cutter , trim bit would work...I think maybe...but it can't plunge in.. so to speak....

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Mike Wingate said:


> Why do you need one that is so long? The guitar body is only a max of 2" thick. If you are using a template for the body shape, a 2" pattern bit wit a 1/2" dia bearing will be fine. For the neck pocket, pickup cavities and control recess, shorter bits will work, especially in a plunge router.


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## Schappy (Dec 27, 2008)

Should I use a shorter bit and just flip the body over to finish?


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## crussell (Jun 3, 2009)

Schappy,
I am assuming you are making an electric guitar body? The most common method would be to use a pattern bit (bearing on top) that is 1/2" diam. by 1" cutting edge. If you are using a table, the pattern would be on the bottom; hand-held the template would be on top.

You would make your first set of passes with the bearing along the template. At this point you have two options:
1- remove the template and continue with the pattern bit running the bearing along the area you just finished.
2- Flip the body over (with or without the template attached) and switch to a flush trim bit (bearing on bottom) to finish it off, again running the bearing along the area you just finished.

If you head over to the TDPRI forums (Telecaster Guitar Forum - guitars, gear, amps and strings) and do a search for posts by a users named jwells, he has posted quite a bit of information on routing guitar bodies using templates. He has also posted some interesting bits about 'downhill' routing (i.e. Climb cutting) to avoid tear out when routing the horns and other curves. This can be *very dangerous, so if you follow his methods, please be careful.*

-Chris


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I bought my 1/2" shank 2" long 1/2" dia bit with bearing from MLCS. Part 7807.

MLCS Flush Trim router router bits


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

Mike Wingate said:


> I bought my 1/2" shank 2" long 1/2" dia bit with bearing from MLCS. Part 7807.
> 
> MLCS Flush Trim router router bits


Mike - That is a FLUSH TRIM bit. You were talking about a PATTERN BIT in a previous post that BobJ commented on.

As I understand the nomenclature, a bottom mounting bearing makes it a FLUSH TRIM bit, a top mounted bearing makes it a PATTERN BIT. Those that have both top and bottom bearings, I'm not entirely sure what is the right name for them but I would go with PATTERN BIT because they would let you flip your stock over on the table and route against either bearing as needed to prevent tearout as the grain changed. And the use of "top" and "bottom" as well as "up cut" and "down cut" generally refer to the bit when it is oriented for hand-held routing.

This however does not prevent anyone from using either bit for either job. :blink: Just causes some confusion in describing the bit at hand.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I am sorry, but being English, something is lost in the translation.


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

Yep, two countries divided by a common language...

In general, the terminology for TOP, BOTTOM, UP and DOWN are based on the router being handheld so that the bit points at the floor.

Pattern bit : Bearing mounted on "top", that is to say nearest the collet.

Flush trim bit : Bearing mounted on "bottom", that is to say farthest from the collet.

Up cut : chips travel from tip "UP" the shank toward to router.

Down cut : chips travel down from the tip into the void area left by the bit.

Of course, if you have table mounted the router, the UP and DOWN directions get reversed, an UP CUT SPIRAL bit pulls the chips down toward the table.

And of course the wonderful bits that have a bearing above and below the cutting edges. As I understand things, these are still considered pattern bits but can also be used for flush cutting by using only the bottom bearing.

BobJ3 can correct me if I'm wrong in the terminology.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

At this point TemplateTom would normally step in and tell everyone this is the very reason to use guide bushings instead of bearings on the bits. It is simple to buy a 1/2" diameter bit 4" long. With the guide bushing you allow the amount needed through to the wood. The only difference is a slight modification to the pattern for the different offset. Quick and easy.


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

Where is Tom anyway? Didn't his PC have a melt down or something and now he uses a different handle?

p.s. I like my pattern bits for cutting fresh zero-clearance inserts for the table saw using the stock metal insert as the pattern. Hard to do without a bearing.  


Step 1) Insert cat
Step 2) Remove skin


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rob

Both, Doak new name and he is on Nicks web site under TT, got ticked off and pull some of the items ... Woodworking Sense

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rwyoung said:


> Where is Tom anyway? Didn't his PC have a melt down or something and now he uses a different handle?
> 
> p.s. I like my pattern bits for cutting fresh zero-clearance inserts for the table saw using the stock metal insert as the pattern. Hard to do without a bearing.
> 
> ...


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