# Almost beginning to build my table --edging



## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Guys and Dolls:

This summer I hope to build my first router table. It was also function as worktable. 

The top will be two layers of 3/4" MDF, laminated top and bottom, edged with hardwood, and with a hardwood frame attached to the bottom. The overall size is 24" x 48". All exposed edges of the MDF to be sealed.

My question is: What are the pros and cons of putting a groove along the length of edgings and rabbets along the top and bottom edges of the MDF, then gluing the hardwood to the MDF?

My thought on this is to reinforce the MDF at the edges, against flexing and warping.

Thanks,
Cassandra


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cassandra

You don't need the edging banding on MDF,,,I made one the same way you are gong to do...two layers of 3/4" MDF is strong , it's so strong you can drive your car over it...and all you are going to do is hang a 15 lb. router from it..
The banding on the router table is just one more thing the stock can hang up on..  it's just for looks the norm but like most wood joints it will move it time..and you will have edge that's up or down on the edges,once MDF is seal it's sealed,, I use Johnson floor wax on my top all the time..I can put a pencil mark on it and with a rag I can just wipe it off easy..

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Cassandra said:


> Hi Guys and Dolls:
> 
> This summer I hope to build my first router table. It was also function as worktable.
> 
> ...


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## a1tomo (Dec 3, 2008)

Hi Cassandra,

Bob got it right (again) . The MDF is pretty much indestructable, but does not like water or excess moisture. All you need to do is make sure the edges are sealed to avoid spilling water (or coffee) on it.

In my opinion (and a lot disagree) the laminate is not needed on the MDF other than it is a bit slicker than a well sealed and waxed top. Somewhat prettier too.

Have fun whatever you do,


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Although Bob and Tom are probably correct about the durability of MDF, my opinion differs from an aesthetic perspective. To me, MDF looks ugly and shouts temporary. A Formica top surface and a hardwood edging would look far better and probably be more durable. The bottom surface of the MDF can just be sealed, I think.

Although expansion of the hardwood edging might create a small lip, that can always be trimmed with a hand plane. Plus, the direction of the expansion can be controlled to a degree by the selection of the wood how it's attached. I'd choose a wood with a relatively low expansion coefficient, first of all. Then, I'd do a small-ish rabbet around the top edge of the MDF - 1/2" x 3/8", perhaps. With a corresponding lip on the edge boards, gluing only the rabbet area would force the majority of the expansion toward the lower edge of the edge boards. Generally speaking, however, the amount of expansion across a 2" wide piece of hardwood is really negligible, so the whole surface could probably be glued for additional rigidity without much of a problem. 

For example, assuming the edging boards are well dried and aclimated to your shop environment, a 2" wide piece of red maple would shrink or expand only 0.01 to 0.02 inch or so, going from 12% to 14% or back.

You can use the Shrinkulator at this link for other woods:

The Shrinkulator


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

While I've already contact cemented formica to the top and bottom of my MDF top, I'm still up in the air about the edging. I'll probably edge it with hardwood for the aesthetics, if I decide not to, what do you "seal" the edges with?

Thanks
Bill


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

gazippoman said:


> While I've already contact cemented formica to the top and bottom of my MDF top, I'm still up in the air about the edging. I'll probably edge it with hardwood for the aesthetics, if I decide not to, *what do you "seal" the edges with?*


Glue, with some hardwood on top? 

I think any sort of varnish will do.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Guys:

A lot of good information above! Many thanks!!

The concept I am going with is to apply the hardwood edging all around the edge of the table. Using a router, provide a smooth transition from MDF to the edging. Then apply laminate, top and bottom, covering the MDF and top and bottom of the edging. Finally, with a chamfer bit, finish the top and bottom edges of the table top. 

My motives for hardwood edging are (1) provide better esthetics, (2) provide edges for sleds to run along, and (3) provide something better than MDF to screw attachments into.

My biggest concern with the grooving and rabbetting is whether differeinces in expansion (MDF vs hardwood) becomes a significant problem.

And no Bob, I don't intend driving a car over it!

Thanks,
Cassandra


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## a1tomo (Dec 3, 2008)

That's what's neat about this forum. Everyone has an opinion and mostly, no one is wrong. There are many ways to do things, and the assesment is up to the doer to do his or her thing. What a great group!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cassandra

No need to drive your car over it,,, but it's 1 1/2 thick..should hold.. 

It will look just fine,,,with the hard wood for edging,, but MDF is funny stuff as I sure you know,,you can't drive/screw anything into it on it's edge,, it will spit just like cardboard and will lift the MDF up the same way ..some will say pre drill it, but have you tried to drill cardboard/hardboard is the same type of stuff but with more rocks/dirt in it.. ..

If you want to use banding on the edges I would suggest using the router bits made just for that type of job but with no screws just glue...and clamps..

MLCS roman ogee and edge banding router bits

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Cassandra said:


> Hi Guys:
> 
> A lot of good information above! Many thanks!!
> 
> ...


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> If you want to use banding on the edges I would suggest using the router bits made just for that type of job but with no screws just glue...and clamps..
> 
> MLCS roman ogee and edge banding router bits
> 
> ========


Hi Bob:

I like the look of #7733 on the website you pointed to. :sold:

Thanks,
Cassandra


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

The problem with those bits is that it states they can be used on stock up to 1". How would you use them on 1 1/2" MDF?


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## taa800 (Feb 8, 2009)

I'm confused when you say to put a rabbet on the mdf. How will that work? Do you then put a big groove down the hardwood edge, so the hardwood looks like [ and this would fit over the mdf? I want to put an edge on my table that I plan on making. I'm also doing 2 sheets of mdf with a laminate top. I figured I'd just sand the mdf edge and glue a piece of hardwood on it. Isn't it that simple?

Someone also mentioned that you can get away with laminating just one side. Is that true? I've always read everyone laminates both sides, but if you only have to do one, why not save the money and only buy half the laminate?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bill

How to use the bit on 1 1/2" thick stock, see below

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gazippoman said:


> The problem with those bits is that it states they can be used on stock up to 1". How would you use them on 1 1/2" MDF?


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

taa800 said:


> I'm confused when you say to put a rabbet on the mdf. How will that work? Do you then put a big groove down the hardwood edge, so the hardwood looks like [ and this would fit over the mdf? I want to put an edge on my table that I plan on making. I'm also doing 2 sheets of mdf with a laminate top. I figured I'd just sand the mdf edge and glue a piece of hardwood on it. Isn't it that simple?
> 
> Someone also mentioned that you can get away with laminating just one side. Is that true? I've always read everyone laminates both sides, but if you only have to do one, why not save the money and only buy half the laminate?


Hi taa800:

Yes, you have the concept of the [ edging, as I was intending it. This is just a concept I have put forth. Most authors (such as Bill Hylton) who suggest hardwood edging mention to glue the hardwood edging to edge of the MDF. Since I am building a large table (2' x 4'), the idea I had was to shape the hardwood and MDF to allow the hardwood to provide more support to the MDF -- to keep the MDF flatter.

The thing with MDF is to seal it against moisture. Laminate does this. So does tung oil, danish oil, varnish, and other similar products. So, one could laminate one side and use a sealant for all other exposed surfaces on the MDF. Alternatively, one could laminate both sides or not use laminate at all. 

The reason some people propose laminate both sides is to provide the same degree of moisture protection to the two sides. Any difference in protection between the two sides can lead to warping of the MDF. Applying laminate on one side and something else on the other side doesn't assure one that the two sides have the same degree of protection and, thus, could lead to warping.

Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Bob:

Thanks for the drawing on using the bit for table tops thicker than one inch. 

Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

I am trying to attach a BMP file, showing the edging idea I am questioniong.

Cassandra


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Here's an image of my concept.

Cassandra


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Cassandra

That's a neat way and That should work fine, it will be tricky to put all the 3/8" rabbits in place..

here's a T & G set that comes with a 3/8" cutter the only one that I know about.. that can be use to do what you want to do..by stacking the cutters up to put in the 3/4" wide groove in one pass but I sure you know many other ways to get the job done..i.e. with a standard 3/4" wide bit..

11pc 1/2" Shank Slot, Tongue & Groove Router Bit Set

11pc 1/2" Shank Slot, Tongue & Groove Router Bit Set - eBay (item 130295249061 end time Mar-28-09 11:04:16 PDT)

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Cassandra said:


> Here's an image of my concept.
> 
> Cassandra


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

If it is not two late, I will throw in my 2 cents. I use a 1 1/4" top I had that was doing nothing and edged it with oak 1 x 3 and I did screw it to the top. Had it been MDF I would not have screwed it only glue as BJ said. I chamfered the edge as you plan to do it works out great, functional and looks good.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Bob:

Thanks for the heads up. As you said, it will be tricky, but I am not one to back away from something because it's difficult. My plan is to use straight bits that are already in my bit collection.

Hi Jerry:

It's not too late. Thanks for your comments. Since my table top is to have an MDF core, screwing into it has been ruled out.

Cassandra


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Bill
> 
> How to use the bit on 1 1/2" thick stock, see below
> 
> ======


Thanks Bob. Ya know, if I had thought about it for a minute, I probably could have figured that out. Had Routers on the brain, didn't even think about using the table saw.
Bill


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Cassandra said:


> Here's an image of my concept.
> 
> Cassandra


I like that approach better than routing just one layer of the MDF for the edging. You might consider just running the laminate to the edge of the rabbet on the MDF, though, because of the difference in expansion factors. 

I don't see a problem in doing the rabbets on one side with an edge guide, and then flipping the assembly to do the rabbets on the other side. You might also give the outer corners of the MDF a little chamfer to leave some space for glue compression.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Ralph Barker said:


> I like that approach better than routing just one layer of the MDF for the edging. You might consider just running the laminate to the edge of the rabbet on the MDF, though, because of the difference in expansion factors.
> 
> I don't see a problem in doing the rabbets on one side with an edge guide, and then flipping the assembly to do the rabbets on the other side. You might also give the outer corners of the MDF a little chamfer to leave some space for glue compression.


Hi Ralph:

I will consider your suggestion on running the laminate to the edge of the MDF only. I need to explorer the expansion issue more deeply. The Shrinkulator link you provided earlier didn't real help me, as I am not up on moisture content of wood, drying the wood, et cetera. 

I like your suggestion on chamfering the edge of the MDF to allow for the glue. Chamfering will also make it easier to get the edging on.

Many thanks,
Cassandra


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## hgporter (Feb 26, 2007)

Cassandra said:


> Hi Guys and Dolls:
> 
> This summer I hope to build my first router table. It was also function as worktable.
> 
> ...


Cassandra. If your RT doubles as a work table, and you're like most woodworkers, every time you need your router, you have to find a place to put all the stuff.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

hgporter said:


> Cassandra. If your RT doubles as a work table, and you're like most woodworkers, every time you need your router, you have to find a place to put all the stuff.


There are two potential sources for this problem: (1) me, and (2) my Dad.

Regarding Source 1, this is not a problem, as I have a work practice that avoids accumulating things on my work table. I use a tool and then put it away before getting the next tool I need. As for workpieces on the table, only the current workpiece is on the table. I have found that this philosophy helps me work more efficiently.

Regarding Source 2, major problem and major headache. My father's work practices are direct opposites to mine. He uses a tool and then puts it down on the work table. Uses another tool and puts it down on the table. Then, when he gets too tired to continue, he leaves the workshop and goes to relax, leaving a BIG mess! I will have to yell at him anytime he does that with my router table. He has three work benches in the workshop. So, he should not need to load up my router table. Guess I will have to ingrain my techniques into him, won't I?

Cassandra


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## jsds522 (Mar 29, 2009)

Just wrap edges the with formica looks good & is sealed


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

jsds522 said:


> Just wrap edges the with formica looks good & is sealed


 
Hi:

Thanks for your input.

Considered it, but decided I like the looks of hardwood edging more. Besides, if one wants to screw things into the edge of the tabletop, laminate-covered MDF just wouldn't do. 

Cassandra


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