# Finally got the table underway



## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

The tripod leg table starts actually getting made. I finally faced my fear of screwing up to get this project started.

Some of you will have seen the lead-up to this point, with me asking about the Tasmanian Oak, and the balsa prototyping of the legs.

Hope you're as ready for the journey as I am.
I'll post my pictures to this thread for all to view as they please.

Shout out to James (jj777746) for the warning about splintering and tear-out - pro tip: a bit of masking tape helped heaps here, just like on plywood.

Alrighty, on to the project itself.

I built another larger prototype out of scrap just to get in the swing of things and also to check my theory about height vs lengths of timber used.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Okay, next up the timber lengths I'm starting with for the real table.
1.5m (approx) lengths of Tasmanian oak @ 6.5cm square


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Here's the next step.
I cut the lengths to be 1440mm (I know, swapping my measurements) and put half-laps in the 2 main "beams".

I also cut mortises in each for the "side beams" and made loose tenons. Originally the design used a one-piece side beam and tenon, but I decided to use a floating (loose) tenon arrangement to make my life easier 

I cut one of the side pieces to 720mm, which I've just realised is a fraction longer than it should be, so I'll have to trim it tomorrow.

I tried to rout the full depth of my mortises, but because of the small bit I was using I couldn't get the full depth. I had to drill out the extra depth.

I'm thinking I might want to invest in some collet extensions, so if anyone has any recommendations.....


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

And final pic for tonight, the jig/fixture/whatever you'd like to call it that helps me to cut the ends at 55 degrees.

As my mitre saw doesn't quite get to 55 degrees, I'm using a method using a 45 degree piece as a guide, adding 10 degrees to the mitre saw and cutting along that to get my 55 degree angle. It works, so I'm happy enough. One day when I get a table saw I might be able to do this easier 

I'm going to have to make sure I support the lengths well to ensure the cut is done safely and accurately without any sagging on the part of the holder (me).


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

And that's all I've gotten done today.
I'm a bit annoyed at the timber merchant I got the wood from. They weren't gentle with my purchase and I discovered a few dents/nicks. Not much I can do, but it's also not my forever table, so I'll make it look as good as I can and be happy.

I'm really happy to be making real progress on it, as I've been afraid to get started. The fear of butchering not-so-cheap wood has had me nervous about starting, as I don't like to waste things that I feel cost a bit of money (hangup from not having much growing up).

But so far things have gone well and my confidence is growing as a result.

Thanks to everyone for the encouragement and tips thus far, I look forward to continuing to share the journey with you all.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Wow, that is a really interesting project. I take it that what strength you lose with the joints is made up for by the strength of the glue. By the time you sand and finish the wood, most of the imperfections will have been worked out.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

I can see why you would be a little hesitant to start the project, I would be too. Good start Steve.


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

1fizgig said:


> Here's the next step.
> I cut the lengths to be 1440mm (I know, swapping my measurements) and put half-laps in the 2 main "beams".
> 
> I also cut mortises in each for the "side beams" and made loose tenons. Originally the design used a one-piece side beam and tenon, but I decided to use a floating (loose) tenon arrangement to make my life easier
> ...


Steve,check out Harrysin's recommendations re "Musclechuck"in my Collet Problem post today.Your table is starting to take shape nicely Jamesjj


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

Steve, I am looking forward to more pictures and your comments on this project.

Your oak looks like the red oak we have here which is pretty common. I have an oak in my front yard.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Nice job Steve.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Interesting. I know of a professional custom furniture maker, who always makes a complete prototype of a new design, with pine; this lets him find the problem, and how to fix them. The prototype is then sold at a low price, and he makes another with high quality (expensive wood). Prototyping is never a bad idea.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Okay, next update, did a bit more leg-work today 

Cut the angles on the ends of the lengths, started carving out a mortise in one of the short legs (and broke the tenon while test fitting so had to drill it out).

Last picture is of the tenon glued in place in the short leg (not the main leg), and all clamped in place to make sure it stays put where it belongs and stays lined up.

Tomorrow's job will be drill the screw holes, then do the glue-up for the other tenon and short leg.

Oh bother - sorry the photos are not rotated correctly. They looked right when I opened them.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Have to do a lot more practice on mortising though. I did a really average job of it. Still, learning is a wonderful thing.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Okay, finished mortising the second short leg and glued up and made the "T" joints today.
Dry fit tomorrow all going well

Once done and I'm satisfied its all level, it'll be sanding and then onto the poly.
Plus getting the top sorted


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

Doing a good job Steve. here is a quick tip,There is a sales group down here called "Kiama Buy Swap & Sell"which has some really cheap tools & such for sale & free. So there is probably a similar group in your area.Hope this tip helps you find a bargain or two Cheers.Jamesjj


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Thanks James, I'll look into that!


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

And now for the assembled pieces.
After this it's sanding and finishing, but that's a story coming soon, not today.

Very happy with the assembled product overall, nice and even.
I've taken a few shots for your viewing pleasure 
Again with the change of angle on a couple of these, sorry. If anyone knows how I can fix these once they're uploaded (i.e. delete, re-add), please let me know.
I did change the rotation on one before uploading, but that was because I thought that taking it on my phone in landscape meant it had rotated the first one.
But the last two I took in portrait so expected them to be ok. 

¯\_(ツ)_/¯


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

I like the geometrics..
well done Steve..


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

And for all those interested, here's a couple of close-ups of the join in the middle just for fun.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

This has been the biggest challenge I've set myself to date. Going back 6 months even I wasn't sure I could pull it off, but I have and I'm really pleased.
Thanks to all those offering encouragement and advice, I really appreciate it.


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

Steve ,this is an awesome job you have done on that joinery.Your practice certainly paid off big time.And, thanks for posting all the pics.Everyone appreciates pictures.Jamesjj


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

jj777746 said:


> Steve ,this is an awesome job you have done on that joinery.Your practice certainly paid off big time.And, thanks for posting all the pics.Everyone appreciates pictures.Jamesjj



Thanks James. I'm enjoying having like-minded craftsmen and craftswomen to share with and learn with.

I certainly have felt more confident having at least done some practice. As I said to my wife last night, I'd be happy to make another, confident in what I've learned so far.

Of course, I still have work to do, and that's no reason for complacency, but at least I know I can actually do it, which is half the battle.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

No photos today, but I've been applying clear poly to the legs. They're coming up really well, I'll post pics in a couple days.

Went to the local hardware outlet (Bunnings, Australia's version of Home Depot) to pick up the laminated beech sheets and discovered they seem to have sold out of the 26mm and 30mm sheets they had at 1800mm lengths. Very disappointed, as i need 3 of them to join and cut the round top out of. They had a stack of 18mm thicknesses, but that would just look too thin for the thickness of the legs.

Going to try another store and see how it goes. They had 2200mm lengths @ $99 a pop, but I don't need that long and don't have a use for the offucts, so wasn't keen on shelling out that much money.

Stay tuned for further adventures.....


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

I've been applying the poly with a sponge instead of a brush, and it seems to be going on well. I feel like I can control the coverage better and get a better finish somehow.

Does anyone have experience doing this, and does it mean I need more coats because it applies a lighter coat than with a regular brush?


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

I've always used a brush Steve except for the last 2 doors which I brushed the first 2 coats on & used a sponge roller for the final coat.Then wished I had used the roller for all coats.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

jj777746 said:


> I've always used a brush Steve except for the last 2 doors which I brushed the first 2 coats on & used a sponge roller for the final coat.Then wished I had used the roller for all coats.


what were the differences???


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Great job so far Steve . More than a simpleton like me could handle lol


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Oh, I think you'd manage*



RainMan 2.0 said:


> Great job so far Steve . More than a simpleton like me could handle lol


To be honest, I think you'd be surprised. I felt the same way and look how it turned out so far.
It wasn't nearly so hard as I thought once I got going and spent the time to be familiar with it, and my experience is I'm sure so much more limited than yours.

If I was any good with Sketchup I'd create a plan and share it around.
I may still get to that, as it's something I'd like to play with (although I note Sketchup are changing their applications, so this may move to another app later).
BTW, if anyone wants this I'll make an effort to draw something up somehow.

Honestly, once you understand how the joint is done, then it's just a matter of doing the work to make it so.


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> what were the differences???


Hi Stick,the difference between brush & foam roller was mainly the ease in which was to apply. The 2 doors were laid flat on ordinary saw horses so I just poured the poly on & rolled it out.Jamesjj


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

any texture differences...


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

I've found the poly on the legs to be really smooth. I was able to manage it so I didn't have to worry about bubbles or drips/overruns.

I had tried it with the brush on a test piece previously, and although it was quicker (I used a small foam brush on the legs), it seemed in my mind to be less manageable.

The texture and finish I think is better on the legs than my test - I seem to have only gotten what I need on there, whereas on the test I think I got too much coating and it almost has a whitish tinge.


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> any texture differences...


Texture was a worry at first. Looked real patchy at first & I thought I'd better go back to using the brush. but I rolled it on from one end right to the other Non Stop & it evened -out nicely. Jamesjj


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Alrighty, next updates. Finally bought the laminated beech panels to make my round top out of. They're pretty close to the colour of the oak legs, so my wife's pretty happy


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Next up, started practising for joining three of these panels together, as my top will be 1300mm diameter.
I bought some benchtop joiners, but needed to think about how I was going to make the hole for the bolt/nut ends.
I was worried about using a forstner bit, because the joiners supposedly should be down 20mm, and the panels are only 26mm thick. I didn't want the pilot for the forstner bit to chew out too much of the remaining ~6mm, let alone the fuss of getting my depth just so.
Enter the router!
I just had to work out what size template hole to use, and try out my template guide that was included with the router. It was the first time I've tried it out, and it seemed ok. I'll still have to investigate options for other template work, like dovetail jigs for future work (not too distant according to my wife!).

I first tried the hole in my mortising jig (pic 05 mortising jig) which was about 50mm, but that was a little large - good for testing though, as the join was nice and tight (as per pic 03 joinery).
I tried cutting a hole a couple sizes smaller of my hole-saw collection, and voila! The hole of about 41mm produced a hole by the router of just under the 35mm the box said I need, and it's a great fit (pic 04 joinery).

Very happy with that, next steps will be to create a simple template that I'll use to see if I can actually get the pieces I need out of 2 panels rather than 3.
More updates soon!


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Tonight I made a dummy of the top out of a large cardboard box.

It's good, because it's helped get an idea of what the finished product will look like (it's accurately sized).

It's also good because it allowed me to work out that I only need to use 2 of the 3 panels I bought, meaning I have an extra panel if something goes really wrong, or for a new project. It also means that the overall cost of materials comes down $100 (AU$).

Really happy - and so is my wife


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Okay, I'm making the top this weekend, but I need some help from all you knowledgeable people out there please.

What's going to be the best way to join the legs to the top so that it's able to be taken off when we move?
I'm not going to be able to get the table out any doors when fully assembled, so I'll need to take the top off to move house (which will happen at the end of this year of beginning of next).

I was thinking originally of just using screws through the legs into the top, or a bolt into a "t nut", and obviously I don't want to have anything go through from the top of the table.
I'm also trying to avoid an unsightly looking set of holes in the legs if I can help it, and a cap or plug won't do it if I can't remove them easily.

My wife suggested hollowing out a part at the top of the legs, and mounting a block on the top that also has an "L" shape to it that could lock in place by rotating the entire top, that way it's held and can't tip easily, but although I can envisage what she suggests, I'm not sure that's the best option either (or that I could pull it off).

Does anyone have any suggestions on how best to do this please?


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Steve - I've used figure 8 fasteners on the tables I've built. Typically, I attach them to the rails but you could put them on the top of the legs. Just dig out a small mortise on the top of the legs, screw on end to that and the other end to the underside of the table top. Easily removed. I bought mine at Lee Valley but I'm sure they are available elsewhere.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Thanks Vince*



vchiarelli said:


> Steve - I've used figure 8 fasteners on the tables I've built. Typically, I attach them to the rails but you could put them on the top of the legs. Just dig out a small mortise on the top of the legs, screw on end to that and the other end to the underside of the table top. Easily removed. I bought mine at Lee Valley but I'm sure they are available elsewhere.


Thanks Vince. I see what you mean.
It's possible, but do you think 1 per leg would be enough? And how long are they perchance?
Just thinking about how I'd place them and how much "real estate" they would use on the table underside.

It may seem fussy, but I do want to consider the aesthetics as much as the function. If I can't avoid it, I'll do what I must to secure the top.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Steve - I just measured the ones I have: 1" long, 5/8" wide, 1/16" thick. Sorry, you'll have to do the conversion to metric yourself :grin:
One per leg would be enough.

The appearance should be OK unless a drunk falls down and looks up at the underside of the table. :nerd:


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

Steve,if I were fixing the top to the legs,I would use figure 8 fasteners like Vince recommended only use 2 per leg,one on each side.`Nobody will see them & you will have a real strong table.Jamesjj


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Update after the weekend: I love my router even more. 

I got the parts to the tabletop ready out of the 2 panels and cut the "wings" out of 1.
I laid the pieces together to see what the fit would be like, and as expected it wasn't as good as I wanted.
So, after a bit of planning on how I'd do it, I milled the side edges with the router on all 3 pieces so they fit nicely together to make nice seams.
Shopping list: 1 slightly longer router bit was required to better handle the depth. I didn't want to use the straight cut bit I was using lower in the collet. I could have and been okay, but I felt better going and getting a longer bit.

Once that was all sorted, I laid the pieces on the floor, and using my simple trammel, traced out my circle. This allowed me to figure out where I was going to put my benchtop joiners, 3 each side.

Once that was done, I began the process of cutting the holes with a template and the simple template guide Ryobi included. (template.jpg)
Once those were cut, I used a straight guide and routed the channels for the bolts to go in.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Now for the fun part, connecting each side and lining things up so the top is as flush as I can get it.
Very successful, only a small part of the top is proud and requires extra attention, but generally the panels were pretty flat.
Got everything joined together. The picture below shows the "wings" joined to the centreboard after the process was complete, and prior to cutting out the circle.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Top cut out*

Next up, cutting the top out.

Once again, turn to the router to cut the top out using the trammel. This was always my intention, as I'm comfortable enough with this rather than trying anything with saws first, and I only have a circular saw that I could even try to use.

Absolute success. I employed my wife to help me manage the power cord and assist with dust removal (I don't yet have a shop vac). It came out absolutely fantastic.

*Pro tip:* When measuring out your circle, measuring to your finished size is fantastic for visualizing where your material needs to be cut/joined to allow for the end result. However, when going to cut with your router, allow for the width of your bit whencutting, and adjust the length of your trammel to suit so that you maintain the target size.

I didn't even consider this, so my 1300mm table is now a shade under 1290mm. Lesson learned.

I am so happy with the result though. A little sanding and I can begin the application of the poly, then look to attach to the table legs. Wife is thrilled with how pretty the top looks.
I'm really enjoying this project, and I really appreciate those taking the time to come along for the ride and offer suggestions and feedback - thank you all.
I've learned a lot just doing it (including learning what I am actually capable of), and I'd really recommend any beginners to try things out, asking those with experience about things that are confusing or for general advice along the way.

I'll be sure to post more pics as I get close and of the finished product.


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

Steve,it would be a shame to cover it with a table cloth the top looks so good. Re the legs, have you considered attaching some type of protection to the "feet"? Because of the very sharp points there is a risk of these points breaking off. I'm sure you have something planned. Just a thought Jamesjj


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Ah yes*



jj777746 said:


> Steve,it would be a shame to cover it with a table cloth the top looks so good. Re the legs, have you considered attaching some type of protection to the "feet"? Because of the very sharp points there is a risk of these points breaking off. I'm sure you have something planned. Just a thought Jamesjj


Hi James, thanks for the complement!

There won't be any tablecloths employed most of the time, but my wife will have to get some placemats 

Where we are currently, the table will be sitting on some carpet, and while there is the potential for damage, there's only the 2 of us most of the time and it should be okay.
When we move, well, that's a hole other kettle of fish. I'll be wrapping those points up really well, and we'll see what sort of environment we move into. It'd be a shame to cover up those points just to protect them in some way too, as they are a feature of the legs.

Maybe I could get fashioned a perspex slipper?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

mighty impressive...


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

Poly going on well, bottom and sides done, now working on the top.
I think next time I'd reverse that order.

It's coming up really well though, and I'm very pleased. I'm getting to the bottom of my tin of poly though, so rather than drag the dregs over it I'm going to buy a new tin tomorrow to keep going.

2 coats on the top tonight, thinking 5 might be good.
I want to sand on the 2nd coat (I did after the first coat), and am considering after the 3rd coat as well.

But the overall feel of the finish is smooth, and doesn't seem to take away anything from the wood in terms of look. Made it a fraction redder, but it just matches the legs better.
The poly I'm using is actually for floors, but it was recommended to me by my local paint store as it would be more hard-wearing (I explained what it was for).


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

And finally, the table is assembled and all is complete.

I ended up using screws to attach the top, which at this stage I'm comfortable with. I used a pocket-hole jib to drill my holes, so that made things easier to get a clean hole in the legs, 1 each side.

I've loved every bit of this project and learned a lot. I would certainly do some thing different if I make it again.
Thank you to everyone that contributed, encouraged and just plain looked over this journey, I look forward to sharing more adventures with you all.

My wife is already lining up a couple of new projects (and is very proud of the table!).


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## jj777746 (Jan 17, 2015)

Steve,well done & congratulations for the excellent job. I say "you've turned the tables on this project,What's next? Glad Mrs.Fizgig likes it too. Jamesjj


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Great table Steve--I've watched your build since the beginning and have really appreciated the process you went through. Thanks for sharing your journey, it should inspire me (if it ever gets warm enough here to get back out in the shop!!)
earl


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Steve - that is a great looking table - professional job - well done.


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Thanks James*



jj777746 said:


> Steve,well done & congratulations for the excellent job. I say "you've turned the tables on this project,What's next? Glad Mrs.Fizgig likes it too. Jamesjj


Next up, some shelving for Mrs Fizgig's design magazines, then she'd like a console table
Oh and a hutch for under the microwave to hide the unsightly plug collection.

Never a dull moment


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Thanks Earl*



greenacres2 said:


> Great table Steve--I've watched your build since the beginning and have really appreciated the process you went through. Thanks for sharing your journey, it should inspire me (if it ever gets warm enough here to get back out in the shop!!)
> earl


Hope your shop thaws quickly!


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## 1fizgig (Feb 11, 2018)

*Thanks Vince*



vchiarelli said:


> Steve - that is a great looking table - professional job - well done.


I guess I'd struggle to say professional myself, but I appreciate the encouragement. I know the flaws, and what I'd do to avoid them next time, and that's the important thing.
Plus the enjoyment of sitting at a table I made


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Very nice, Steve... great result.


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