# 10" saw blade deal?



## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

I know Freud is a good brand, but Sears Craftsman also delivers good quality with their tools. So which do think is better?

Sears.com


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Freud by far...
not to mention their CS...

if youwant to compete w/ those sears blades go w/ Marathon...


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

I just realized the post didn't show the Freud blade being offered by sears as well. Here it is.

Sears.com

Sounds like Freud is still the best so I'll get that one. Thanks.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Tonto1 said:


> I just realized the post didn't show the Freud blade being offered by sears as well. Here it is.
> 
> Sears.com
> 
> Sounds like Freud is still the best so I'll get that one. Thanks.


That is a good price, I have the RED Freud 60t on my RA saw and it gives an excellent cut.
Herb


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Tonto1 said:


> I just realized the post didn't show the Freud blade being offered by sears as well. Here it is.
> 
> Sears.com
> 
> Sounds like Freud is still the best so I'll get that one. Thanks.


This particular blade is a crosscut blade, not a ripping blade. If you have a mitre saw and use that for cross cuts, this blade would be more appropriate for that, if not then you would definitely want to switch out before any extensive ripping operations.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Jack Wilson said:


> This particular blade is a crosscut blade, not a ripping blade. If you have a mitre saw and use that for cross cuts, this blade would be more appropriate for that, if not then you would definitely want to switch out before any extensive ripping operations.


that blade *IS NOT* for a miter saw...
it *IS NOT* a negative hook blade...

take a moment...


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> that blade *IS NOT* for a miter saw...
> it *IS NOT* a negative hook blade...
> 
> take a moment...


DOOM on me!!! Sorry!! :smile:


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Stick, I've saved this and may refer to it on occasion, but I'm pretty sure my blades on my mitre saws have a positive hook angle.


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I don't buy anything at Sears. Going to Sears to buy tools is like going to the Dollar Store and buying tools. Neither one has a clue.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

hawkeye10 said:


> I don't buy anything at Sears. Going to Sears to buy tools is like going to the Dollar Store and buying tools. Neither one has a clue.


If neither one has a clue then why do they locate their tools next to small appliances? Answer me that Mr. Hawkeye! :smile:


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

I was wanting it for a ripping blade, but I see that it is for crosscutting. Great info in that link Stick!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Jack Wilson said:


> Stick, I've saved this and may refer to it on occasion, but I'm pretty sure my blades on my mitre saws have a positive hook angle.


so put the correct one on...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

hawkeye10 said:


> I don't buy anything at Sears. Going to Sears to buy tools is like going to the Dollar Store and buying tools. Neither one has a clue.


ditto...
at least the CS at the dollar store is leagues ahead of sears...


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> so put the correct one on...


But they work great!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Quenten that Freud 60 tooth is an excellent crosscutting blade for the table saw and at that price is a steal. For ripping you want max 30 tooth with high hook angle. The more teeth you have the more power it takes to drive it and more teeth means smaller saw gullets so the gullets on those blades load up very quickly with sawdust and when they do it creates friction on the sides of the cut and the blade gets hot and will start warping. I ruined a pretty good Sears blade that was 60 tooth just in that fashion. You also have to make sure that the blade is designed to cut 3" deep if you intend to use it that way. Freud makes 2 blades that are nearly identical except that one is only meant to cut material 1" thick. I think the Sears blade was only meant for cutting panels (i.e. less than 1") but that's one of the issues with buying from Sears is that you don't always get all the info that should be included. I also have an 80 tooth melamine blade from Sears and it has been a pretty good blade. It may be starting to get a little dull finally but it was a reasonably good blade so I wouldn't hesitate to buy a Sears blade if the price was right.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Jack Wilson said:


> But they work great!


and a negative rake will work better..
and safer too...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Marco said:


> If neither one has a clue then why do they locate their tools next to small appliances? Answer me that Mr. Hawkeye! ... :smile:


...So someone who knows little about appliances and nothing about tools can cover the floor in both departments. Got to keep labor costs in line by golly.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

Thanks Charles, you guys are great. I didn't realize how much there was to learn about wood working! After looking at the blade on my table saw, it appears to be for crosscutting as well. So I will need to pick up a ripping blade. I will be on a very limited budget for a while so I really appreciate you guys sharing your knowledge/experience with me. I think I will pick up that Freud blade since it is a good deal. I'm sure I will need it before long. I'll start looking for a ripping blade also.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

If you want a really great blade, get the Freud glue line rip blade. Amazingly good blade. I also have switched to the full kerf rip blade Freud offers in their industrial line. Not quite as fine a finish on the cut as the Glue line, but man, no distordeflection tion of the blade, ever. One more thing about saw blades, I recently realized I was not raising the blade quite high enough when doing a rip cut. Now I try to get the blade high enough so most of the gullet is above the work piece, which allows the gullet to carry more sawdust down into the dust collection system in the saw. A surprising difference with abut 1/4 inch higher setting.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Here are some pretty good deals on blades. I've dealt with this guy several times and he's very good to deal with. I've only had the most positive of experiences so far.
Delta 10 x 18 FT Grind Carbide Saw Blade 35-611
Craftsman 29283 Dyanite Carbide 10" x 40 10" x 28 Tooth Circular Saw Blade Sears blades but 2 for $16 is cheap.


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> and a negative rake will work better..
> and safer too...


FWIW, just checked my main miter box, it's a Dewalt with a Dewalt blade, blade is stamped that it's for a power miter box, it has a 7° hook. It's possible that recommendations have changed. Doctors and governments do it all the time.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Some miter blades do have a low positive hook Jack but the better ones have a negative hook. The gative hook pushes the workpiece down towards the table where the positive hook wants to lift it., the safer part. The negative hook usually cuts a little smoother without tearing fiber as easily but they do tend to cut a little slower. Melamine blades often have a negative hook. I managed to pick up some Onsrud blades on ebay that I think they were dumping to get rid of because I don't see them on their website anymore. They are marked for use on a miter saw and have negative hook angles and I've never had any blade cut as smoothly as they do.


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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

“…Freud is a good brand, but Sears Craftsman also delivers good quality with their tools.”

Dunno ‘bout that. 

Craftsman is famous (or is that infamous??) for discontinuing tools and not having/stocking replacement parts. Heard it said: “Buy Craftsman? Buy two: one to use; one for parts.”:grin:

And from what I read and hear, Delta is now just as bad.

To assist those looking for parts I believe there was a thread on this site linking Sears model numbers with the manufacturer’s codes in locating spare/replacement parts.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It all depends on who Sears had make something and to what specifications. I know that some Sears blades were made by Vermont American which is a kind of middle of the road quality but there may have been others also that were of better quality. Delta was the same. They offered blades and bits. I bought a 1/4 roundover and was told that it was a CMT with gray paint instead of orange. It turned out to be a very good bit. I also bought a Delta branded miter saw blade and it turned out to be so-so. The Delta rip blade I supplied a link to was made by Leitz in Germany so I would expect it to be of top quality. So unless you're buying a blade that was actually made by the name on it then it can be a bit of crap shoot but that doesn't mean you can't luck out and get something very good.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

> Craftsman is famous (or is that infamous??) for discontinuing tools and not having/stocking replacement parts. Heard it said: “Buy Craftsman? Buy two: one to use; one for parts.”


I have bought mostly Craftsman tools sets form Sears, some have been discontinued/upgraded. The only thing I have actually had to take back was a couple of broken 1/2" drive ratchets & a 25 ft. tape measure that the spring broke inside. Each time they replaced it with the current model. May be different with power tools.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The sockets and ratchets did and may still have lifetime warranties, the power tools usually only one and I think occasionally two year warranties. Shortly after that repair parts start getting hard to find. Blades and bits would only be warrantied against defects. Once I got a blade that still had a raw chunk of carbide for a tooth. It got missed in the grinding sharpening process. You can't imagine what rough is unless you've had it happen. That would be an instant replacement. If a blade or bit vibrated so bad you couldn't use it it would be an instant replacement. Prematurely wearing out would probably be your problem unless a lot of people had it happen and made a big stink about it. So there are at least 3 levels of warranty. Lifetime, limited, and barely out the door.


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