# Wanted! Pictures of your skiis



## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

I had to do it. The thread requesting the pictures of the router tables inspired me so much and gave me so may ideas, I finally built my own. Now I am going to build some skis, and the idea occurred to me; what better way to come up with design ideas than to see pictures of others skis. I know there doesn't seem to be lot to them, but I have seen several in different posts that have given me ideas. I already have a basic design, but really wanted to see what others have done, and maybe inspire others to build some also.

Once I have mine built, I will post some pictures.

Thanks,
Darrin


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

darrink said:


> I had to do it. The thread requesting the pictures of the router tables inspired me so much and gave me so may ideas, I finally built my own. Now I am going to build some skis, and the idea occurred to me; what better way to come up with design ideas than to see pictures of others skis. I know there doesn't seem to be lot to them, but I have seen several in different posts that have given me ideas. I already have a basic design, but really wanted to see what others have done, and maybe inspire others to build some also.
> 
> Once I have mine built, I will post some pictures.
> 
> ...


Here's a starting point Darrin.

*http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/15212-my-trim-router-goes-skiing.html*

*http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/15122-blame-bj.html*

*http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/23799-beginners-guide-making-router-skis.html*


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## Al Robins (Jul 13, 2009)

Darrin.....Harry has given you a heap of ideas....FWIW here is mine, from one of the many photos.....hope that gives you some inspiration..........AL


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

You can find mine at this link.

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/13557-okay-ive-finally-got-skis.html#post110848


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

*Hardwood Dowel*

Where do you find wooden dowels for the cam boards, and what diameter is it. Is it hardwood?

Thanks!
Darrin


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Here's some shots of the ones I have on hand  but not all of them 

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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Darrin

You can get 1 1/2" dowel rods from HD/Lowers/Lumber yards BUT I will say they don't need to be big, Harry likes the small ones and they works just as well, they don't need to be round just some scrap stock to lock the wood in place But I do like the round ones so I can use it like a cam, I have them from 1/4" tall to 2" tall and all use the same Allen screws/bolts to lock them in place = for the cam board....



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darrink said:


> Where do you find wooden dowels for the cam boards, and what diameter is it. Is it hardwood?
> 
> Thanks!
> Darrin


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

BJ, in the one picture with the Milescraft template, are you cutting discs to use as cams?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

darrink said:


> Where do you find wooden dowels for the cam boards, and what diameter is it. Is it hardwood?
> 
> Thanks!
> Darrin


Hi Darren, I just make mine out of scrap with a hole saw or circle cutter. Make any diameter or thickness I want/need.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

Nope,,I use the hole saw or the dowel rod most of the time, it's so easy with the dowel rod on the chop saw and a stop block the hole saw is a PITA way, they need to be sanded to get them true and round unlike using dowel rod, you can buy 1" dowel rod cheap than drop them on the drill press and just drill one hole on the out side edge of the dowel, I must over 200 or so can't have to many cams, they work on many projects, i.e. sanding some stock, hand router jobs just any time you need to hold the stock in place not just for the cam board.. with a quick dry wall screw into some scrap plywood, it's in place and will not move around..and a great way to glue up projects, just can't have to many clamps.. picture frames, small boxes,drawers,etc...so you can see it's worth the time to make some..  to beat the high price of 1 1/2" dowel think of use hand rails that you can get cheap (1.oo ea. 12 ft.long)..some look like snakes but who cares if you are going to cut it up..  2nd hand wood lumber outlets and some lumber yards in the scrap lumber rack.

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darrink said:


> BJ, in the one picture with the Milescraft template, are you cutting discs to use as cams?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

ping!


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

*vertical camming*

Hey Bob, have you considered the possibilities of putting cams on a vertical block?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ralph


vertical block ?????????, how about picture or drawing to show me what you mean...VB..

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Ralph Barker said:


> Hey Bob, have you considered the possibilities of putting cams on a vertical block?


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Hi all
That mines


Daniel


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

*HF Router plate*

BJ, I know you use the HF router plate a lot, and I think I have read some post where you talk about cutting it down to a smaller size. Can you tell me what you use to cut it. I am planning on using one for the base of my router when I make skis.

Thanks,
Darrin


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Darrin

I used a 6 1/2" 1/16"wide blade on the table saw but you can use just about any (cross cut) blade on the table saw to get a nice clean cut..

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darrink said:


> BJ, I know you use the HF router plate a lot, and I think I have read some post where you talk about cutting it down to a smaller size. Can you tell me what you use to cut it. I am planning on using one for the base of my router when I make skis.
> 
> Thanks,
> Darrin


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

*Skis Almost Finished*

I finally got around to making my skis. While they are not finished, all that's needed is to make the knobs and put some Formica on the bottom for slides. Attached is a picture of them and a PDF that shows some steps along the way. Not quite a tutorial like Harry can do though.

Darrin


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice job Darrin


That should work out fine  nice touch with the Alum.rails..


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darrink said:


> I finally got around to making my skis. While they are not finished, all that's needed is to make the knobs and put some Formica on the bottom for slides. Attached is a picture of them and a PDF that shows some steps along the way. Not quite a tutorial like Harry can do though.
> 
> Darrin


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

darrink said:


> I finally got around to making my skis. While they are not finished, all that's needed is to make the knobs and put some Formica on the bottom for slides. Attached is a picture of them and a PDF that shows some steps along the way. Not quite a tutorial like Harry can do though.
> 
> Darrin


An excellent piece of engineering Darrin. Two things however puzzle me, how do you lock the rails to the end cheeks after setting the height and how do you lock the router assembly to the rails, bearing in mind that the skis are normally used by positioning then LOCKING the router to the rods/rails and moving the whole assembly by the end cheeks.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just the way I see it, the support brackets/guide brackets)( the plate is in the rail slots ) the threaded holes that can be used to lock the router in place on the rails and than with some washers on the cheeks it will let him move the rails up and down easy for the height...
Great way to get the job done for routers that don't have holes for the rods.
Many in the USA use the PC router and a way to get more support for the routers ,no sag this way that I can see..Great jig for the ski setup Darrin 
**********8
Just a link for the Alum. rails
http://stores.ebay.com/8020-Inc-Gar...=6479546&_sid=129537225&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

harrysin said:


> An excellent piece of engineering Darrin. Two things however puzzle me, how do you lock the rails to the end cheeks after setting the height and how do you lock the router assembly to the rails, bearing in mind that the skis are normally used by positioning then LOCKING the router to the rods/rails and moving the whole assembly by the end cheeks.


Thanks Harry! The ends of the aluminum rails are threaded. Currently I just have bolt threaded into them. I plan on putting short pieces of threaded rod in the ends of the rails and using knobs to secure the rails to the end cheeks. To secure the router assembly to the rails, I will use tee bolts and knobs since the rails are more or less T slots the whole length. I just didn't have the knobs to complete the job, and I was anxious to post pictures of it, like a little kid, I just couldn't wait.

I plan on putting fender washers in between the rails and the checks, putting Formica strips on the bottom of the cheeks and the coating them with Johnson's Paste Wax to seal them.

I need to make a jig to cut flutes so I can make some "Bob" knobs. That, hopefully, will be my project this coming weekend, and then it should be complete and I will post some more pictures.


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Just the way I see it, the support brackets/guide brackets)( the plate is in the rail slots ) the threaded holes that can be used to lock the router in place on the rails and than with some washers on the cheeks it will let him move the rails up and down easy for the height...
> Great way to get the job done for routers that don't have holes for the rods.
> ...



Thanks BJ! All I need are the knobs and it will be complete. I plan on making them the way you do on the router crafter, but I don't have a router crafter. I am going to make a rectangular box that my router will slide along the top of. At both ends of the box there will be holes so I can thread bolts into the end of the stock. One end will have a crank with an index disc so I can cut the flutes the length of the stock. I will need to mark lines on the diameter of the stock in the places where I need to route a round over groove on the tops and bottoms of the knobs.

Two questions what size core box bit do you use to cut the flutes, and when you make the groove where the knobs will be separated, do you make more than one pass to make the groove wider?

Thanks!
Darrin


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Darrin

That will work but here's a easy way to make some knobs.see link below

" Two questions what size core box bit do you use to cut the flutes, and when you make the groove where the knobs will be separated, do you make more than one pass to make the groove wider?"

It will take many passes with the core box bit.

Router Forums - View Single Post - Jig Storage & Shop made Knobs

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4464-jig-storage-shop-made-knobs.html

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darrink said:


> Thanks BJ! All I need are the knobs and it will be complete. I plan on making them the way you do on the router crafter, but I don't have a router crafter. I am going to make a rectangular box that my router will slide along the top of. At both ends of the box there will be holes so I can thread bolts into the end of the stock. One end will have a crank with an index disc so I can cut the flutes the length of the stock. I will need to mark lines on the diameter of the stock in the places where I need to route a round over groove on the tops and bottoms of the knobs.
> 
> Two questions what size core box bit do you use to cut the flutes, and when you make the groove where the knobs will be separated, do you make more than one pass to make the groove wider?
> 
> ...


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Darrin
> 
> That will work but here's a easy way to make some knobs.see link below
> 
> ...


BJ,
I studied all of the posts I could find on making knobs. To me, I liked the router crafter way. It would take a lot of passes just make the grooves? Why is that? It still seems more productive then doing it on the drill press.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

" Why is that?"
It will flex, that's to say it will drop down and pull away from the bit if the cut is to hvy.the longer the stock the more the flex, and rip out the grooves in big chunks..

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darrink said:


> BJ,
> I studied all of the posts I could find on making knobs. To me, I liked the router crafter way. It would take a lot of passes just make the grooves? Why is that? It still seems more productive then doing it on the drill press.


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## 48394 (Oct 25, 2010)

BJ and Harry 
I found this to be a really interesting thread and decided to build a ski set for my Elu 3338. I used 3/8 -16tpi all thread. The Elu is set up for 10mm rods so 3/8" seemed pretty close. With ~ 20" between cheeks the router sagged ~1/8" at the center of the span. I wondered if adding a spreader bar between masts attached to the cheeks could counteract the sag. so I tried this: see photos.
A length of 1/4" black pipe is clamped to a 3/8-16 allthread rod to add modulus and expands the distance between the masts to level the mounting rods for the router. I haven't actually routed anything yet but the height gage says the router can be leveled to within a few thousands of an inch. Actually, it's possible to overcompensate and bow the support rods upwards. 
What are your thoughts, assuming you can see the images. 
I thought derrink's use of extrusions was pretty neat as a desagulator but as the Elu has the guide holes I went in this direction.
Regis


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Darrin:

Here's a few pictures of mine.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice job Regis 

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Reg66 said:


> BJ and Harry
> I found this to be a really interesting thread and decided to build a ski set for my Elu 3338. I used 3/8 -16tpi all thread. The Elu is set up for 10mm rods so 3/8" seemed pretty close. With ~ 20" between cheeks the router sagged ~1/8" at the center of the span. I wondered if adding a spreader bar between masts attached to the cheeks could counteract the sag. so I tried this: see photos.
> A length of 1/4" black pipe is clamped to a 3/8-16 allthread rod to add modulus and expands the distance between the masts to level the mounting rods for the router. I haven't actually routed anything yet but the height gage says the router can be leveled to within a few thousands of an inch. Actually, it's possible to overcompensate and bow the support rods upwards.
> What are your thoughts, assuming you can see the images.
> ...


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

Reg66 said:


> BJ and Harry
> I found this to be a really interesting thread and decided to build a ski set for my Elu 3338. I used 3/8 -16tpi all thread. The Elu is set up for 10mm rods so 3/8" seemed pretty close. With ~ 20" between cheeks the router sagged ~1/8" at the center of the span. I wondered if adding a spreader bar between masts attached to the cheeks could counteract the sag. so I tried this: see photos.
> A length of 1/4" black pipe is clamped to a 3/8-16 allthread rod to add modulus and expands the distance between the masts to level the mounting rods for the router. I haven't actually routed anything yet but the height gage says the router can be leveled to within a few thousands of an inch. Actually, it's possible to overcompensate and bow the support rods upwards.
> What are your thoughts, assuming you can see the images.
> ...



That's a pretty slick idea Regis! I can see where it would be easy to over compensate with that setup. There is a lot of leverage there, and it should work just fine.

Darrin


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Darrin:
> 
> Here's a few pictures of mine.


Thanks Ron. In the second picture, the pieces screwed to the outside of the cheeks; are those used for handles?

Darrin


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Reg66 said:


> BJ and Harry
> I found this to be a really interesting thread and decided to build a ski set for my Elu 3338. I used 3/8 -16tpi all thread. The Elu is set up for 10mm rods so 3/8" seemed pretty close. With ~ 20" between cheeks the router sagged ~1/8" at the center of the span. I wondered if adding a spreader bar between masts attached to the cheeks could counteract the sag. so I tried this: see photos.
> A length of 1/4" black pipe is clamped to a 3/8-16 allthread rod to add modulus and expands the distance between the masts to level the mounting rods for the router. I haven't actually routed anything yet but the height gage says the router can be leveled to within a few thousands of an inch. Actually, it's possible to overcompensate and bow the support  rods upwards.
> What are your thoughts, assuming you can see the images.
> ...


Whilst I'm sure that your solution will work Regis, looking at your background, I'm sure that sooner or later you will succumb and make a sub base. Quite some time ago in answer to a members question, I posted this simple set-up purely to illustrate the principle of the sub base. Bj may possibly have made his version well before my post, I don't know, but his appears to work well as I'm certain Derrin's will. 
The 12mm rods on my "workhorse" skis are 27.5" long and sag is not a problem using a heavy router, bearing in mind that for all tasks except where the cutter is to penetrate the material, the ski assembly is controlled by the end cheeks, and are capable of performing many tasks, but the maximum length of course is limited by the size of one's bench top. Happy ski routing.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

darrink said:


> Thanks Ron. In the second picture, the pieces screwed to the outside of the cheeks; are those used for handles?
> 
> Darrin


Hi Darrin:

Ok, a bit of history here. Like Harry, I too had prepared a sequel to one of Harry's pieces on skis. But I went at it from a purely experimental standpoint. The pair in the first picture were my original experiment. They were made of 12mm threaded rod. They worked fine with a few identifiable problems. Firstly, I moved the base of the router across the threaded rod and found metal shavings on the table. Bad news for the accuracy department if your binding surface is always changing. Second, I found that when I had my hands on the "cheeks" of each ski that I curled my fingers over the wingnuts. It was just a natural comfortable position. I also found that the length between the cheeks (24" rods) to be insufficient for most of my current projects. 

Hence, model 2. The objective here was to improve on model 1 and experiment further. Yes, the handles are a big plus. The drill rods are 12mm x 36" long and the ends are turned down to 7/16" (by accident) which leaves me with a nice shoulder to put 5/16" washers onto. But, when I started doing setup, I noticed that the router slid across the rods very easily. So, that led to experiments with routing across the skis using the rods as the guide.

I also added an illuminated magnifying glass. I found that with the skis I could control the router almost microscopically but I couldn't see that fine a detail so I added the Rockler illuminated magnifying glass on a gooseneck. Works like a charm.

Set number 3 is the cheeks of number 2 but with 14" long drill rod. On this short model I took my table mounted router and used it: no handles, cut for large bits, no springs etc. This was intended as a response to plunge sag. It created more problems than it solved so I'm going back to wedges and blocks.

I'm not due back into the shop for another couple of months but when I do I'm going to experiment with the next iteration, the pivot frame. This is the ornamental lathe version of skis. I'm hoping to combine skis with an angler or a sled.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just a bit more of history here 

When you use all thread rod you should Not move the router over the threaded rod that's like putting a round file in your router base, what did you think would happen  once the router is locked into place you can move the router around all over the place with the cheeks or the handles on the router..

It's best to use 36" rods, (that you can get from any hardware store cheap) you can always make them shorter with the nuts and wing nuts but you can't make them longer..

I will say the bigger the rods the better but some of the normal routers can't take on the bigger rods ( 1/2" / 12mm ) so use the biggest one that will fit in your router base or just use a sub.base plate and brackets.
Some will say you need the bigger rods, not so,the router is on top of the stock most of the time so you don't have the sag that many worried about..

You need to think about what is the ski jig is, it's just a way to help you hold the router just like a router table but upside down to the router table..so to speak, no more no less..

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allthunbs said:


> Hi Darrin:
> 
> Ok, a bit of history here. Like Harry, I too had prepared a sequel to one of Harry's pieces on skis. But I went at it from a purely experimental standpoint. The pair in the first picture were my original experiment. They were made of 12mm threaded rod. They worked fine with a few identifiable problems. Firstly, I moved the base of the router across the threaded rod and found metal shavings on the table. Bad news for the accuracy department if your binding surface is always changing. Second, I found that when I had my hands on the "cheeks" of each ski that I curled my fingers over the wingnuts. It was just a natural comfortable position. I also found that the length between the cheeks (24" rods) to be insufficient for most of my current projects.
> 
> ...


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## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

Here are some Muskoka chairs (as we call them here) I made for my son and daughter-in-law as a house warming present. The long chair has a reclining back. Also a bedside table for the guest room. I put rounded edges on each of he slats on the chairs. For the bedside table I cut the mortises with a 3/4 bit, and chamfered the tops of the legs.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Roger

Nice  did you use the ski jig to make the items ?
I don't see a picture of your ski jig in the snapshots..



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The Warthog said:


> Here are some Muskoka chairs (as we call them here) I made for my son and daughter-in-law as a house warming present. The long chair has a reclining back. Also a bedside table for the guest room. I put rounded edges on each of he slats on the chairs. For the bedside table I cut the mortises with a 3/4 bit, and chamfered the tops of the legs.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> It's best to use 36" rods, (that you can get from any hardware store cheap) you can always make them shorter with the nuts and wing nuts but you can't make them longer..


I use 18" and shiis for posts and beams, 24" is threaded so I don't use them for just the same reason that Bob specified above, and the 36" are my full size for table top use.



> Some will say you need the bigger rods, not so,the router is on top of the stock most of the time so you don't have the sag that many worried about..


I have to agree. I use 12mm drill rod on both the 18" and 36" skis and I have no sag with either. However, when you apply pressure to plunge to the working depth, with a stock plunge router, quite often I will have some deflection. To counteract this I use a supporting block under the middle of the rods or a wedge to allow the depth to be set correctly, without deflection. Of course I'm referring to setting the depth within a captured cut with no outside access, i.e. for marquetry.


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## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Roger
> 
> Nice  did you use the ski jig to make the items ?
> I don't see a picture of you ski jig in the snapshots..
> ...


Sorry, misread the thread. I read it as skills.  Well, maybe I could make the slats longer....


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