# Router table size



## drsmtl (Mar 2, 2007)

Has anyone came up with a perfect size (surface area) for router table?
I am building one to be incorporated with one of my Shopsmith ER-10's.
Is there such a thing as too large of a table or too small? 
I have an old Craftsman aluminum table, it is functionable, but seems small and the noise level is terrible. Vibration and metal are not a good mix..
What are your opinions?  

Bob


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

The perfect size , but this is just my 2 cents 

36" high 36" wide and 48" long with 2ea. router base plates (11" x 11" drop in type) that can be used from 3 sides of the cabinet with storage under the top on both sides of the cabinet with one big drawer on the bottom that can be pulled out from the front side or the backside of the cabinet ( to hold the routers bits or parts and some jigs for the router)
Fence would be in two parts,one for the front side and one that can be used from the backside if needed,swing type fence on both with inserts in the center.
Power outlets and power switch on both ends of the cabinet with locking wheels on the base of the cabinet.

You may ask why two base plates, the 2nd one is a good place to drop in a 2nd router,pocket hole jig,jig saw,etc. the pocket hole jig works great on the router table because you have a flat top and it 48" long to hold the stock true and if you drop the pocket hole jig down just a bit in the drop in base you will have a nice flat spot all the way.

Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> The perfect size , but this is just my 2 cents
> 
> ...


In other words... the dining room table  That would be a nice one Bj, but then I would have to get rid of my work bench  

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bud

LOL  but then your router table will now become your work bench with some drop in plates to plug the holes when you need to. 
And you can put the routers in the big drawer on the bottom with the base plates still in place on the routers  drop in and use.



Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I like that idea Bj....hmmmmm......

Corey


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bob, There is not one answer that works for everybody. Some people build their tables so they can sit at them while a professional cabinet shop might use their table exclusively for running long moldings, there are too many variables. Perhaps the best thing is to describe a couple popular tables so you can judge for yourself.
The Router Workshop table top is 16" deep x 30" long. The mounting plate is 11"s square and set into the top about 4" from the left side. The fence is clamped on from front to back and you push your material away from you while routing. This leaves plenty of room to stack additional parts to the right of the fence for processing.
The ShopNotes #1 table is slightly larger at 22" deep x 33" long. This table most often see's a 9 x 12" mounting plate set lengthwise and centered on the top. The fence fastens from side to side with built in clamps and your work is moved from right to left.
The table surface should be between 9-14" below your elbow in a standing working position, and 1-5" below your elbow for a seated position.
There are many opinions on what material to build a top from. The Router Workshop table top is made from 3/4" baltic birch (bb) plywood with laminate top and bottom. The ShopNotes design uses 3/4" plywood and a 1/2" layer of tempered hardboard(Masonite) covered with laminate top and bottom. I like the laminate for a couple of reasons: it is a nice slick surface for your wood to slide on and you can easily make pencil marks for reference points and clean them off in a snap. I hope this information guides you towards building a table top you are happy with.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey Corey

Let me know if you make one , as you know I have 4 router tables and they are now taking more room than I want to give them so I now need to come up with a new way to use the routers I have with a smaller foot print in the shop to get the room back. 

Looks like my sons are going to get a router table some time this year 

Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Hey Corey
> 
> Let me know if you make one , as you know I have 4 router tables and they are now taking more room than I want to give them so I now need to come up with a new way to use the routers I have with a smaller foot print in the shop to get the room back.
> 
> ...


Bobj,

Easy solution!

Just make another router table capable of holding FOUR routers!
Look at all the room you could save!

And you could sell the old four for more than it would cost to make the Last One!  

A win win project!  

*The other Bob...*
If you have watched The Router Workshop, you will see that Bob & Rick get along pretty well with the table they use. From small projects to larger projects, it all seems to get easily done.
ergo, I would use it as a pattern using the measurements that Mike mentioned.

If it aint broke, why fix / change it?

IMHO...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

I don't believe that there is a true answer to this other than, for each person, there is and will always be a difference for what they need. Some may need a larger table, others a simple small table. To each his/her own.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

challagan said:


> In other words... the dining room table  That would be a nice one Bj, but then I would have to get rid of my work bench
> 
> Corey


Not so Corey. Your work bench now becomes your dining room table.  With a vice to hold your napkins in.


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## drsmtl (Mar 2, 2007)

Thanks guys.. I know this subject has probably been beat to death before I got here.
I think size is dominated by work space and the task being done

Router tables are just like cars and other things. If all our taste were the same it would create one heck of a fight.. 

I am leaning toward 18" x 24" work surface with a Rousseau base plate and T-lock tracks where needed.

BTW I think Elcaminos rule...

Bob


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

drsmtl said:


> Thanks guys.. I know this subject has probably been beat to death before I got here.
> I think size is dominated by work space and the task being done
> 
> Router tables are just like cars and other things. If all our taste were the same it would create one heck of a fight..
> ...


You might take a look at this...
http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=28007

... it's cool... knock down...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bob, When you are ready to install your mounting plate I suggest you puirchase the template installation kit. It includes a 2 piece guide bushing that makes installation super easy. There are also mounting kits for each brand of router so you are perfectly centered on the mounting plate. A few extra dollars well worth spending. You can view other posts on this subject in the forums.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Joe and Corey

I think the new router table will look like the one below ▼

It's funny when you get into routers and router tables you find out that you want more and more and then you have too many for the shop size. 

This one will have round base plates because it's easy to make a round drop in pockets for the base plate and I like to use 3/8"/1/2" thick stock for the router base plates .
Make a trip to the hardware store and pick up some plastic stock and fire up the band saw and the drill press and I have a new base plate quick and easy.  or I can buy them ,see below.

The only thing I can't do it mount the Horz.router parts to this type of top but all the other add on items should work fine like the OakPark jigs,Pin Router parts.drop in plates for the pocket hole jig,Jig saw,etc.

Still working on the base cabinet, have not got that down yet . 

Round Veritas® Base Plate/Table Insert
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41776&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1

Bj


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

bobj3 said:


> Joe and Corey
> 
> I think the new router table will look like the one below ▼
> 
> ...


Hi Bob!

I guess you liked my idea!  

Just a few comments on your top design:
Apparently each router is purposely 'out of line' with the others.
It appears that one router setup could interfere with an adjacent router.
Longer boards may require other fences to be removed; if kept in-line, one fence line could go into the next fence's line.

If you had T Track at the ends also, the End routers could be used from the ends as well as the sides providing more flexiblity.

Will that vacuum hose interfere with routing operations? Is it aimed at the chips going under the top? On the top?

I've never seen round plates in a router table... If the routers are to be popped out for bit changes, etc. (like Bob & Rick do), wouldn't they have a tendancy to roll around a little? Square plates would provide more stability.

Looks like a COOL idea and layout...   

Now, how much room is made as a result of making this consolidation?

When are your other tables going to go On Sale?  

Looking good!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Your ideal got the light bulb flashing in my head 
( out house for 4 people at a time but not using the same hole at the same time  ) LOL hahahahaha

Only one router will be use at a time and because the fence can just swing out of the way it should be ok I Think ? .

Vacuum hose , about the same thing just pop it in or out when it's needed into the back of the fence exit ports.
Round base plates will have 1/4" knotch so they can be line up with the 1/4" dowell pin that's in the router top.
And the round blank ones just pop out if it's needed.
Square plates are a pain to put in but round holes anyone can do it quick and easy with a home made cir.jig.
I use the brass guide in a 3/4" hole on the cir.jig just drop the plunge router in the 3/4" hole and cut the hole or the recess for the base plate quick and easy.
With a pass or two it's done,,, no sticks or template needed,,, all that's needed is 1/8" hole for a center mark 
Not to crazy about Tee tracks but I use them for holding devices to keep the stock to the fence .
Not sure if I'm going to sale the other ones yet they may end up in the boys shop but who knows for sure need to made sure I like the setup 1st.

"consolidation" this should give me back about 26 sq. ft. or just abit more if I work it right.

Bj 


________________________
---------------------------




Joe Lyddon said:


> Hi Bob!
> 
> I guess you liked my idea!
> 
> ...


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Looking good there Bob. That would be pretty sweet set up for sure bob. I don't have room for a set up like that though. 


I have been thinking.... I know.. I know. I think the best way for me to gain additional routing space is to use the right extension of my table saw. I can get all the space I want, it's at the right space for me and I can do alot of operations on it that I don't have the room for on my Bench Dog. We will see. 

Corey


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Corey, how about just simply use Bob's shop?


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Hamlin said:


> Corey, how about just simply use Bob's shop?


I tried that.... already Hamlin... He said something about me cleaning his shop and tools and stuff and then maybe.....  


Corey


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Mike said:


> Bob, There is not one answer that works for everybody. Some people build their tables so they can sit at them while a professional cabinet shop might use their table exclusively for running long moldings, there are too many variables. Perhaps the best thing is to describe a couple popular tables so you can judge for yourself.
> The Router Workshop table top is 16" deep x 30" long. The mounting plate is 11"s square and set into the top about 4" from the left side. The fence is clamped on from front to back and you push your material away from you while routing. This leaves plenty of room to stack additional parts to the right of the fence for processing.
> The ShopNotes #1 table is slightly larger at 22" deep x 33" long. This table most often see's a 9 x 12" mounting plate set lengthwise and centered on the top. The fence fastens from side to side with built in clamps and your work is moved from right to left.
> The table surface should be between 9-14" below your elbow in a standing working position, and 1-5" below your elbow for a seated position.
> There are many opinions on what material to build a top from. The Router Workshop table top is made from 3/4" baltic birch (bb) plywood with laminate top and bottom. The ShopNotes design uses 3/4" plywood and a 1/2" layer of tempered hardboard(Masonite) covered with laminate top and bottom. I like the laminate for a couple of reasons: it is a nice slick surface for your wood to slide on and you can easily make pencil marks for reference points and clean them off in a snap. I hope this information guides you towards building a table top you are happy with.




This posting is very helpful to me. I am still trying to build a router table using the Oak Park top, and because of the major project I used to justify the purchase of a router, bits, table parts, lumber, etc. to the household budgetmeister I need to build extensions so that I can deal with nearly 8 foot long stock. I am also confined to a wheelchair so I have to build a table at which I can sit. I have 3/4 inch baltic birch plywood but I would like to laminate it. Where can I find the kind of laminate used in the Oak Park table top? Am I correct that it is melamine?


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Melamine or Laminate.. either is fine. I agree with Mike it makes a nice surface to work on top of. Usually you will fine laminate at home centers as used in kitchen counter tops. 

Corey


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

mftha said:


> This posting is very helpful to me. I am still trying to build a router table using the Oak Park top, and because of the major project I used to justify the purchase of a router, bits, table parts, lumber, etc. to the household budgetmeister *I need to build extensions so that I can deal with nearly 8 foot long stock.* I am also confined to a wheelchair so I have to build a table at which I can sit. I have 3/4 inch baltic birch plywood but I would like to laminate it. Where can I find the kind of laminate used in the Oak Park table top? Am I correct that it is melamine?


What kind of cut(s) will you need to do on 8' stock?
Depending on what it is, you could use the router as a handheld cut and making the cuts in wheelchair distance cuts until done. ie: for roundovers, trimming, etc.
Also sounds like feather boards could be used to help controlling the cut.

How wide is this 8' stock?

What are you making?

You can get roller racks and put them at each end of the table to control the input & output... HF (Harbor Frt) has a sale on them quite often, it seems.

Any Formica type laminate can be used for the Top (both sides & edges)... once you wax it, it all works just fine. 

I'm curious as to what ur making... or want to make...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The best deals I have found on laminate are at either Lowe's or Home Depot. They stock different colors and patterns in 2' x 4' sections, 2 of these will cover your 2x4' BB plywood top and bottom. Often you will find pieces of laminate with a chip on one corner. They will mark these down even further if you ask. In the real world 23" instead of 24" wide wont make a bit of difference and could cut your cost in half. Don't worry about the color or pattern of the laminate. It wont matter if the bottom has pink teddy bears. Try to find a light color for the top since this makes seeing your pencil marks easy. You can dress up your table by cutting your plywood so you can add hardwood trim around the outside and then covering it with the laminate. A quick trim with a beveling bit and you have a very clean professional look.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Mike said:


> The best deals I have found on laminate are at either Lowe's or Home Depot. They stock different colors and patterns in 2' x 4' sections, 2 of these will cover your 2x4' BB plywood top and bottom. Often you will find pieces of laminate with a chip on one corner. They will mark these down even further if you ask. In the real world 23" instead of 24" wide wont make a bit of difference and could cut your cost in half. Don't worry about the color or pattern of the laminate. It wont matter if the bottom has pink teddy bears. Try to find a light color for the top since this makes seeing your pencil marks easy. You can dress up your table by cutting your plywood so you can add hardwood trim around the outside and then covering it with the laminate. A quick trim with a beveling bit and you have a very clean professional look.


Good info Mike, thanks!

Corey


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## CASparky (Oct 14, 2004)

Re Router Table tops... My late father-in-law did kitchen remodel jobs, including sink tops. I just could not stand to see the sink cutouts go to waste!! (He would just pitch them!)
INSTANT ROUTER TABLE TOP, and game board, and...
Unless one cannot get out at all, it should not be too difficult to locate a countertop cutout (and some these days are large!!!)

Lou


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## drsmtl (Mar 2, 2007)

I just cut a router table out of a sink cutout. It ended up 18" x 28". The bottom is glued to another layer of 3/4 PB and the edges are to be banded with 3/4" oak.
The next part is the mounting system to mount the top on the end of my old SS ER so it can be removed and stored easily. 

Those sink cut outs are good to work with and cheeeeep... $1.00 each

Bob


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Joe Lyddon said:


> What kind of cut(s) will you need to do on 8' stock?
> Depending on what it is, you could use the router as a handheld cut and making the cuts in wheelchair distance cuts until done. ie: for roundovers, trimming, etc.
> Also sounds like feather boards could be used to help controlling the cut.
> 
> ...



Your suggestions (and the suggestions others have made) about the laminate are greatly appreciated.
The main project is to build shelves for the books and journals mhy day job requires. They are intended to nearly reach the ceiling. I am using the project to learn use of the router. As I go on I get more ambitious with respect to the side shaping. I have learned so far that the most secure way to mount the shelves is a simple 3/8 inch deep dado in the upright (nearly 8 feet) supports that are 2 x 10. The shelves themselves are 1 x 10 of varous widths. I have tried lineal dovetails, bullnose/round nose and chamfer/V groove combinations. I need 24 floor feet of shelving. Before I get there I need to finish my router table, and likewise as time goes on the plans get more elaborate. I now plan to build a rolling chest that is the functional equivalent of the Oak-Park router table, except I cannot place it under the table top. I learn better what I do not yet know how to do. Do you get the idea that I am somewhat overly ambitious and overconfidnet of my abilities? If you have read all this you might have too much time on your hands! Thanks for asking. It is always good to articulate ideas that are floating in my head.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

mftha said:


> Do you get the idea that I am somewhat overly ambitious and overconfidnet of my abilities? If you have read all this you might have too much time on your hands!


Not overly ambitious, you have a plan..
I have all kinds of time to read.. I'm retired..


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

mftha said:


> Your suggestions (and the suggestions others have made) about the laminate are greatly appreciated.
> The main project is to build shelves for the books and journals my day job requires. They are intended to *nearly reach the ceiling*. I am using the project to learn use of the router. As I go on I get more ambitious with respect to the side shaping. I have learned so far that *the most secure way to mount the shelves is a simple 3/8 inch deep dado in the upright* (nearly 8 feet) *supports that are 2 x 10*. The shelves themselves are *1 x 10 of varous widths*. I have tried lineal dovetails, bullnose/round nose and chamfer/V groove combinations. I need 24 floor feet of shelving. Before I get there I need to finish my router table, and likewise as time goes on the plans get more elaborate. I now plan to build a *rolling chest that is the functional equivalent of the Oak-Park router table, except I cannot place it under the table top*. I learn better what I do not yet know how to do. Do you get the idea that I am somewhat overly ambitious and overconfidnet of my abilities? If you have read all this you might have too much time on your hands! Thanks for asking. It is always good to articulate ideas that are floating in my head.


Just comments off the top of my head... 

I think I would use some good grade 3/4 ply, NOT from the borg, but from a good lumber yard or 'wood products' store. For a small charge after the first 2 free cuts, ($1.50 per cut) have them cut the ply into the strips required for the supports... and the shelve strips... It would save you a lot of time and hassle. I get good quality, cabinet grade ply from a local company cheaper than I can get crap from the borgs... Let you fingers walk through the phone book and call/ask. For a heftier charge, they may deliver it for you... for a smaller fee if you're not in a hurry and they can piggy back another larger delivery close to you. I like to use Poplar ply (looks like Maple)

You would also want to get some solid wood for the facings and shelve edging... Here again, I'd use poplar or maple.


*1 x 10 of varous widths*
I'm assuming you want a finished depth of 10".
10" less the facing or edging is 9.25"
9.25" plus .125 (saw kerf) = 9.375
48" (width of ply) / 9.375 = 5.12
You can get 5 strips out of 48" ply.

If you kept your shelf widths to say 30" +.75 for dados +.125 kerf = 30.875"
96" ply / 30.875 = 3.10 
You can get 3 shelves, tops, & bottoms out of a 96" strip.

*nearly reach the ceiling*
You may want to leave a space of about 4" so the book cases can be tilted into place w/o hitting the ceiling... and to eventually be trimmed with a crown moulding type trim to tie it all together.
How will you reach the top from a wheelchair?


*the most secure way to mount the shelves is a simple 3/8 inch deep dado in the upright*
I agree with you. I like dados too.
The best way to cut those 'dados' is to:
Lay your side supports out on a large table. (clamp at ends to hold them)
Mark (map) your dado positions on ONE strip.
Use a T square to mark your dado lines across all of the strips on the table... 
USING THE WIDTH OF YOUR PLY to determine your dado width.

Make a jig for cutting your dados out of some 1x2 poplar that you can line up each dado, clamp, and route the cuts 1/2 the width of ply. I personally would use a 3/8" or 1/4" bit (flush trim or guide per your desire)

Cut all dados at once... use one cut strip to mark another table load...
Test cut on scrap to be sure your ply fits good.

They must be aligned for the shelves because you cut them together... no guess work.

Same way for rabbets @ top & bottom.
Tops & bottoms are the same as shelves. 


*supports that are 2 x 10*
May I suggest that you make individual cases then mount them together with special fasteners for tying cabinets together (top & bottom)?
Now, you can use 3/4 ply sides! .75 x 2 = 1.5" + .25" overhang = Facing around each case = .75 x 2
The same facing glued to each shelf edge (shorter, to fit between sides).


*rolling chest that is the functional equivalent of the Oak-Park router table, except I cannot place it under the table top*
That sounds like a cool way to go... don't forget, the casters need to easily lock into place!

*Do you get the idea that I am somewhat overly ambitious and overconfidnet of my abilities?*
I do that all the time!  
I have the tendancy to start designing something simple... as I draw & think, I say to myself... "Why I don't do this... or add that... to make it better?"
Next thing you know, it's not simple anymore!  

Oh, if you're planning to put magazine type stuff on the shelves, you could make a few storage boxes (using box joints & spacer fences from Oak Park).
Would be easier than changing the shelves to do it.

OK... those are my comments... I hope it gives you to think about to make it easier for you!


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Just comments off the top of my head...
> 
> I think I would use some good grade 3/4 ply, NOT from the borg, but from a good lumber yard or 'wood products' store. For a small charge after the first 2 free cuts, ($1.50 per cut) have them cut the ply into the strips required for the supports... and the shelve strips... It would save you a lot of time and hassle. I get good quality, cabinet grade ply from a local company cheaper than I can get crap from the borgs... Let you fingers walk through the phone book and call/ask. For a heftier charge, they may deliver it for you... for a smaller fee if you're not in a hurry and they can piggy back another larger delivery close to you. I like to use Poplar ply (looks like Maple)
> 
> ...




Your coments are very perceptive and greatly appreciated. You have filled in many of the gaps I left, and I do intend to do many of the things you mentioned. 

I obtained the lumber (white pine) before I really knew what I was doing, so following some of your suggestions, such as using good quality plywoood and building individual cases and then binding them together, are now not possible from a financial perspective. 

The shelves are only the first project I have in mind. Using a router is a hobby for me and I get great satisfaction from doing something well, and eagerly learn from something that does not work so well. 

I am confined to a wheelchair but if I exercise and keep up the leg strength I can stand briefly, long enough to reach the top shelf. (I had surgery several years ago to relieve pressure on the spinal cord, so I may someday again walk. My biggest problem with respect to walking is that I have no sense of where my feet are, and if I go down it may take 30 minutes to get back up (and the rest of the day to get back the energy!). Regeneration of nerves is a very slow process for anyone above the age of about 2, and I am well beyond that. In recent days I have noticed that I now have a sense of pressure in my thighs, but I still have to watch out for heat, and I do have to visually inspect for cuts, abrasions, etc.)


Anyway Joe, great thanks.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

mftha said:


> Your coments are very perceptive and greatly appreciated. You have filled in many of the gaps I left, and I do intend to do many of the things you mentioned.
> 
> I obtained the lumber (white pine) before I really knew what I was doing, so following some of your suggestions, such as using good quality plywoood and building individual cases and then binding them together, are now not possible from a financial perspective.
> 
> ...


OK, are you going to have Bookcase like units around the walls or build them in?

How many walls will be used?

Are they always going to be against a wall, as opposed to middle of room forming isles?

Do you want Face frames, etc. to make it look as good as it can?

NYWS recently had a 2 part series on building-in shelf units, etc.
Library System...
http://www.newyankee.com/getproduct3.cgi?0513
... may give you some better ideas... Get a video for better coverage.

I do hope your health improves... asap...

Later...


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