# Harbor Freight router bits?



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

So I’m building a new Table Saw sled and needed a 3/8” bit for the slots. I was blown away when I saw what bits are going for now. It’s been a while since I bought bits and they were about $10 to $15 back then. I did notice that kits were a little cheaper per bit, but I end up with bits I’ll never use. I have lots of bits that were part of kits bought years ago that I still have not used.

Anyway in my quest for cheaper bits I found Harbor Freight has set pretty cheap and thought about buying a set from them.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

JohnnyB60 said:


> So I’m building a new Table Saw sled and needed a 3/8” bit for the slots. I was blown away when I saw what bits are going for now. It’s been a while since I bought bits and they were about $10 to $15 back then. I did notice that kits were a little cheaper per bit, but I end up with bits I’ll never use. I have lots of bits that were part of kits bought years ago that I still have not used.
> 
> Anyway in my quest for cheaper bits I found Harbor Freight has set pretty cheap and thought about buying a set from them.


Be careful with HF bits because many are HHS rather than carbide. Read the package carefully so as to not make the same mistake I did at one time. I did buy a set of slotting bits that seem to work OK, but for how long is another question.


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## smc (Dec 19, 2008)

As a first-timer with limited funds in a new hobby, I bought a set from HF. I will certainly tell anyone *DON'T*, just as I've told many in the past. I consider myself lucky that nothing happened to my person, and HF refunded my money. The router I got from them was better (I thought) than my PC, until it started vibrating and the motor brake failed after about the 8th cut. It was returned as well.

Don't get me wrong, Harbor Freight has great tools for cheap. I've seen some pretty nice carbide bits lately, but I won't buy them. You don't want to get a bargain on something spinning at high speed or used for precision work. The money saved could be used at the hospital, I guess.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Consider MLCS; they have a very wide variety of profiles and two level, the regular and the "premium" Katana brand. All are carbide cutting edges.


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## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

Maybe for a one time use and toss it cutting project , but for long term keep it around and use on many projects , no way.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Thanks everyone. I did buy some on sale at MLCS that were very reasonable, but I also found some Skill bits at Lowe's that were in my price range and I was able buy them in a pinch just to get the job done.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I've had my set of HF bits for probably two years now. Still have all my body parts.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

*Why is Diablo so expensive?*

To change the topic yesterday I needed a roundover bit and could not wait for one to be shipped so I went Home Depot, Lowes, but all I could find were Diablo bits for $36 so I went to Harbor Freight and they only had big sets. I finally went back to Home Depot and bought a Ryobi 3 Pc Bit Set for $20.

3 Piece Roundover Router Bit Set A25RS31-A25RS31 at The Home Depot

I just don’t see what makes Diablo so expensive. I can visually see the difference in the Saw Blade design, but not the bits. Is it just name brand we are paying for or what?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Johhny, Diablo items are made by Freud and are high quality cutters. Avanti items are Freud's entry level cutters which use the same engineering but thinner, less expensive carbide. Avanti bits and blades are silver color... anything red is higher quality. I highly recommend the Freud red blades for home use saws. Yes, you pay for the name, but you also get what you pay for.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Mike said:


> Johhny, Diablo items are made by Freud and are high quality cutters. Avanti items are Freud's entry level cutters which use the same engineering but thinner, less expensive carbide. Avanti bits and blades are silver color... anything red is higher quality. I highly recommend the Freud red blades for home use saws. Yes, you pay for the name, but you also get what you pay for.


Thanks Mike


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## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

I bought a couple of sets early on from Canadian Tire, but I have mostly gone to HD and bought bits one at a time as I needed them. This works well for me, and the Freud bits are high quality, but I think I may switch to Lee Valley as their selection is better than the local HD. The LV store is 65 km away, though, so I need another reason to go to Burlington, as SWMBO doesn't like me to spend money on tools.


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## Doctor Atomo (Feb 23, 2012)

I usually buy my bits in small sets when Grizzly has a sale on the purple ones... 

I've got the roundover set in 1/2 and 1/4"- H5572 Roundover 6 pc. Set, 1/2" Shank six bits for $25

As well as the very useful "Plywood bit set" for "undersized" plywood mortises.- H5559 Straight Plywood 3 pc. Set 1/2" three bits for $14

and their Rabbeting Bit Set- H5547 Deluxe Rabbeting Set 2 for $32

I also got my flush trim bit from them and my cabinet door set. I think the purple bits from Grizzly are an unbeatable price-quality ratio especially if you time your purchases right!

ebay is a great resource for bits, I buy only high quality bits at deep discount there. I got a massive Amana drawer pull bit for $5 brand new!

When I needed a cheap starter set for my Colt I decided on a new Acceptable Grade Chinese brand that's trying to build a reputation. They are called Neiko. I've read mostly good reviews on their products. They are my new, Step Up From Harbor Freight brand, lol! 

Amazon.com: Used and New: Tungsten Carbide Router Bit Set - 1/4" Shank - 8 Piece eight bits for under $20


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Doctor Atomo said:


> ..............
> As well as the very useful "Plywood bit set" for "undersized" plywood mortises.- H5559 Straight Plywood 3 pc. Set 1/2" three bits for $14........


Oh wow I didn’t know that there was a set especially for plywood.

I bought a set maybe 15 years ago at a traveling tool show held in a local hotel banquet room. The place was packed with contractors and cabinet makers. Everyone was buy this router bit set and I figured that I better buy one before they were sold out. It looked nice with the wood case and all, but I still haven’t used it or know what they are used for. 

I also came across a huge clearance sale at Lowe's one time and bought a bunch of bits that i still don't know what to use them for.

My router bit drawer needs some organizing and there is some stuff like drill stuff that should not even be in there, but this is what I got. 









I've been thinking about buying a set with everything already in it, but i just don't know what i want


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## Doctor Atomo (Feb 23, 2012)

Lol! Yeah the plywood bits are indispensable for routing mortise slots to accept nominally sized plywood. The set fits commercial 1/4" 1/2" and 3/4" plywood nicely!


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## Idonno (Mar 19, 2012)

The biggest difference in carbide router bits is the better ones make clean cuts for a much longer time.

If you need one that you only intend to use once like I did with a garage door rail even high speed steel will suffice for one or two cuts.

The best advice I can give someone just starting out (besides stay away from HF bits) is buy the 1/2" 66 piece set from MCLS then as they wear out replace them with quality bits like Whiteside, Lee Valley, Freud, Amana, CMT etc. (yes in that order) you get the picture. 

MCLS are OK bits. Not great, just OK. They are allot better than Harbor Freight and better than Grizzly but still a long way from the best. Their large sets have a very cheap pr. bit price ($2.87 per bit with the 66 piece set) and they will cut fine for a while. 

A large MCLS bit set is great as a starter set and if you replace the ones you use on a regular basis with quality bits you will have a very nice intermediate set.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Idonno said:


> The biggest difference in carbide router bits is the better ones make clean cuts for a much longer time.
> 
> If you need one that you only intend to use once like I did with a garage door rail even high speed steel will suffice for one or two cuts.
> 
> ...


Thanks Idonno, I will keep that in mind. I need to go through my bits and organize them so I can see what good or not. I did find a ½” bit the other day that was so badly burned up that it would not cut anything.


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## notLefty (Apr 11, 2012)

i would suggest not to leave any Harbor Freight tools plugged in when not in use. a while back i went into the basement to get something and smelled fresh toast. it took a while to sniff it out, but i found it.

it was the 8" belt sander i got from them, i wouldn't have found the source of the toasty smell if i hadn't put my hand on the motor to bend down and look at the plug socket. i got a good size blister on my palm. the sawdust in the sander next to the motor was toast colored and smelled like toast.  

i don't leave anything plugged in now, and I'm a better house keeper..


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

notLefty said:


> i would suggest not to leave any Harbor Freight tools plugged in when not in use. a while back i went into the basement to get something and smelled fresh toast. it took a while to sniff it out, but i found it.
> 
> it was the 8" belt sander i got from them, i wouldn't have found the source of the toasty smell if i hadn't put my hand on the motor to bend down and look at the plug socket. i got a good size blister on my palm. the sawdust in the sander next to the motor was toast colored and smelled like toast.
> 
> i don't leave anything plugged in now, and I'm a better house keeper..


Hi, I’m glad you brought this up. 

I bought a grinder years ago and I was really concerned about a warning in the manual to “inspect the wiring once a year”. I just thought this was so odd and those words destroyed my confidence any of Harbor Freight motors. 

I only have one other motor beside the grinder and that is a 6” belt sander. I do not leave either of them plugged in and I worry about them each time I use them.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Johhny, why not make your next project that bit drawer? You can do this in an afternoon and for very little money. There are lots of free plans for bit storage but the simple methods shown below gets everything organized and keeps your bits safe. I am adding another section for 1/2" bit storage this afternoon since I ran out of space. I am also building a stand for the bits we will be testing at the ISS event.


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## Esquared (Apr 6, 2006)

For my money I buy WhiteSide router bits. I try to plan ahrad and have time to order on-line. But my local Woodcraft store carries a good supply of Whiteside bits.

Just my 2 cents.


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## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

smc said:


> Don't get me wrong, Harbor Freight has great tools for cheap. I've seen some pretty nice carbide bits lately, but I won't buy them. You don't want to get a bargain on something spinning at high speed or used for precision work. The money saved could be used at the hospital, I guess.


Oh, heck, in Canada hospital is free, so we could take the chance on bad bits! :jester:


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## jbrukardt (May 1, 2012)

There are certain things you want to stay away from at HF. Namely anything made out of metal that you're worried about breaking, or anything sharp. If you're never heard horror stories of router bits shattering, do yourself a favor and dont learn them personally by using bits made of cheap steel.

Not only will you hate life after they dull quickly, but its also risky


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## Tommyt654 (Apr 5, 2009)

Brian over at Holbren gives us a 10% of on all purchases and he sells a lot of router bits and in general a great guy to deal with, just use RF10 when ordering from him here , Router Bit Sets - Cutting Sets, Tongue and Groove, Door Sets


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## dickhob (Apr 7, 2012)

*How about American Eagle Bits*

I just got a catalog from American Eagle. Any thoughts on the value of these bits?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Eagle American bits are very good quality made in the USA. We will soon be running a test of different brands of bits to see how they stand up in a average home shop. Eagle American is one of the companies participating. This will be the first time I have used them myself. Keep an eye out for the thread coming soon in this section.


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## randyruth (Feb 20, 2012)

They use C0 carbide which is the softest. I just had a 1/4 in straight bit break on me! I have a set which I bought some time ago. If I wear one out then I go and buy a good bit to replace it. I usually buy ceap, and if I use a bit enough to wear it out, I figure I need a good one.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

*cheap cost's more*

why buy cheep bit's they are a waste of time to me. Now if you are going to make a couple cut's and that's it cheep may still cost more pour cut , bit brake's?? I don't go to HF that is me. I know people that do and they keep going back. I guess they have the time to do so. Weekend Warrior i guess ? Not me buy the best than you will be good that is what i do. To each his own my 2 cents


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

randyruth said:


> They use C0 carbide which is the softest. I just had a 1/4 in straight bit break on me! I have a set which I bought some time ago. If I wear one out then I go and buy a good bit to replace it. I usually buy ceap, and if I use a bit enough to wear it out, I figure I need a good one.


Read this and-

Had a "Ryobi" branded 1/4" straight carbide bit come apart on me 2 days ago. Piece stuck in a wall. I know what I was doing... Routing aluminum with too high a bit speed for the material. I could have used one of two die grinders with carbide bits... but I wanted the effect.

I'm sorry, but I try not to bash. I had another carpenter that I worked with that with a good sense of humor, used HF tools every day. His philosophy was- it's cheap. If it breaks, buy another. It worked out for him. My boss and mentor at the time, brand name, get what you pay for/pay for quality. 

Other experiences since: Sometimes it's hard to get quality work from inferior tooling. Sometimes you can still get that result, but with a lot more effort.

Yet I still have to get real with finances and I have to compromise sometimes. With that, there's still that "expect what may happen." Adjust and modify. May not last as long. May "have" to make it work.

HF bits and blades? Inexpensive. May not last long. Pay attention to what it's made out of and of the "measurements."

As for routing aluminum... I usually keep a few bits to use just for that, instead of thinking they're going to work just as well on wood afterwards. Bits coming apart? About 10 or so in the last 30 years... but that is using a router "allot" almost every day.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

MAFoElffen said:


> As for routing aluminum... I usually keep a few bits to use just for that, instead of thinking they're going to work just as well on wood afterwards. Bits coming apart? About 10 or so in the last 30 years... but that is using a router "allot" almost every day.


Hi Mike! I’m interested in routing aluminum and want to know more. Is there more information on this? 

I have a 4x5 piece of aluminum. I can’t remember at the moment what the thickness is, but I believe it’s about a ½” thick. I originally was going to use it to make a router table extension for my Table saw, but then when I discovered that it was worth more than $300 as is, I decided against it. I still don’t know what I’m going to do with it, but if I can route it, that will leave me with more possibilities.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Hi Mike! I’m interested in routing aluminum and want to know more. Is there more information on this?
> 
> I have a 4x5 piece of aluminum. I can’t remember at the moment what the thickness is, but I believe it’s about a ½” thick. I originally was going to use it to make a router table extension for my Table saw, but then when I discovered that it was worth more than $300 as is, I decided against it. I still don’t know what I’m going to do with it, but if I can route it, that will leave me with more possibilities.


Tips on routing aluminum? I use carbide bits. I turn the speed down. Seems to go better.

I take my time and make shallow cuts. On router plates, I punch a hole with a drill and cut out from there. Every once in a while, I put a few drops of cutting oil on the bit. I used to put it on the work- but it's gone in a second and makes a mess of the router.

Even at high speed, you'll find it machines really well. At first "I" was worried about bit speed and melting the aluminum onto the bit... But with slow speed, light pressure and fluid movements, that wasn't a problem. 

I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was. I have scraps of recycled pieces of steel, aluminum, plastics (pvc, acrylics, poly-carbonates and polyethylene...) that I have and keep finding uses for. What I have (re-used) is cheaper than having to go out and buy...


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

MAFoElffen said:


> Tips on routing aluminum? I use carbide bits. I turn the speed down. Seems to go better.
> 
> I take my time and make shallow cuts. On router plates, I punch a hole with a drill and cut out from there. Every once in a while, I put a few drops of cutting oil on the bit. I used to put it on the work- but it's gone in a second and makes a mess of the router.
> 
> ...


Thanks Mike. I know what you mean by the aluminum melting. I made this welding stand and used a SawZaw with a metal blade, but I must have used 4 or 5 blades just cutting these small pieces, because the aluminum was clogging the blades.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

*travel time and buying stuff*



The Warthog said:


> I bought a couple of sets early on from Canadian Tire, but I have mostly gone to HD and bought bits one at a time as I needed them. This works well for me, and the Freud bits are high quality, but I think I may switch to Lee Valley as their selection is better than the local HD. The LV store is 65 km away, though, so I need another reason to go to Burlington, as SWMBO doesn't like me to spend money on tools.


Roger, go to Burlington and buy what you need. Take the Mrs. to a nice restaurant while you are there.:dance3: I'm intrigued that you used the metric rather than the English system.


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## dustmagnet (Jul 24, 2012)

All the HF bashing, if you look at the MLCS router bits and the HF bits, same mold so to speak, I have many HF hand and power tools, no problems, I have some of the name brand tools. I have had name brand tools come completly apart just as some HF tools, only difference, HF cheaper to replace. It all comes down to what a person can afford just "starting out". Why spend thousands of dollars on tools of the trade and next month they have it on craigslist because they lost interest. Just my two cents!


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

dustmagnet said:


> All the HF bashing, if you look at the MLCS router bits and the HF bits, same mold so to speak, I have many HF hand and power tools, no problems, I have some of the name brand tools. I have had name brand tools come completly apart just as some HF tools, only difference, HF cheaper to replace. It all comes down to what a person can afford just "starting out". Why spend thousands of dollars on tools of the trade and next month they have it on craigslist because they lost interest. Just my two cents!


hi there, I sort of agree with you. I have to say that I’m not so happy with Freud bits. I’ve broke 5 or 6 of them so far this year and a couple where from dropping them on the concrete, but at the cost of them peruse just isn’t worth it. I haven’t used HF bits yet, but I’m going to give them a try. If they break then I’m still doing better than Freud. I just have to be aware that they can and do break.

Talking about bits breaking, I got a new Ridgid cordless drill last week and was drilling a 3/8” hole through ¼” steel when the bit jammed just as I was breaking through so I threw it into reverse and the bit exploded. It was just lucky that I was wearing my leather apron because the shrapnel from that could have easily penetrated my chest. I don’t recall the brand, but it was a good high quality set, I’m a little skeptical about these name brands anymore..


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## Art4Med (Sep 25, 2013)

So how to protect in the heat? I'm going to place barriers where possible.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

*Harbor Freight Bits and Blades*

Like a lot of other folks I have had both good and bad experiences with Harbor Freight tools. My most recent experience was with an oscillating multi tool blade I bought there. During use, the weld, that connected the cutting edge to the piece bolted to the tool, broke. The cutting edge just dropped the floor. My first thought was 'what if this were a fast spinning bit or blade'?


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## KenJMcLaren (May 26, 2014)

*Workmanship of Tools*



JIMMIEM said:


> Like a lot of other folks I have had both good and bad experiences with Harbor Freight tools. My most recent experience was with an oscillating multi tool blade I bought there. During use, the weld, that connected the cutting edge to the piece bolted to the tool, broke. The cutting edge just dropped the floor. My first thought was 'what if this were a fast spinning bit or blade'?


Over the years that I have worked with tools, it has always amazed me that even with poor workmanship taken into account, we do not see a lot of mishaps. On the other hand the most severe operation in making carbide tools is the finish grinding of the cutters. If something is going to fail it usually will here. The defects that show up are microscopic cracks in the carbide and poor brazes between the carbide and the steel holders. Carbide has a lower coefficient of expansion than the braze or the tool steel.
When these tools are ground these defects will usually cause the massive failure. In 
my day job we teach the apprentices how to braze carbide into tool holders and then finish grind them. I have seen some real sloppy poor quality brazes or silver solder joints that end up holding up for the life of the cutter. I have also seen the carbide fly off of the holder or break because of the poor quality connection to the tool holder.

As far as the myriad of Chinese cutting tools go, let's look at what we woodworkers are doing with them. 

We are cutting wood. 

I definitely not use many of these cutters to mill tool steel.

By and large we are getting great value when we are machining wood with low cost cutters. Here is a little tip to use with any carbide cutter. Take a piece of brass and drag it over the cutting edge, use finger pressure. The purpose is to deburr the carbide after finish grinding or lapping on polished cutters. I will suggest that you may get a lot more life in board feet out of two identical cutters with the deburred cutter.

So, what are the differences between the bargain cutters and the premium cost cutters. Quite a bit actually, first the grades of carbide used and/or the sintering of the carbide is probably quite different quality. The quality of the braze is better controlled on the premium cutter. As far as finish goes a mirror finish is a mirror finish. What I see as the biggest difference is balance and run-out or T.I.R. (total indicator reading) on best quality cutters we probably will not see the needle of a .002mm/ 0.0001" indicator move on a premium quality cutter. On a economy cutter that indicator will bounce all over the place. Let's bring that into perspective. The biggest factor in cutter life is feeds and speeds. That also implies rock solid stability of the milling machine (router) and the work piece. We are guiding the router or the work piece by hand, not rock solid in my book.

So, for the average guy, me being in that category, buy the Chinese cutter and experiment and if it is going to be a high use specialty cutter spend the extra money.


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

Excellent information. Thank You!!!


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## eccentrictinkerer (Dec 24, 2007)

JIMMIEM said:


> Like a lot of other folks I have had both good and bad experiences with Harbor Freight tools. My most recent experience was with an oscillating multi tool blade I bought there. During use, the weld, that connected the cutting edge to the piece bolted to the tool, broke. The cutting edge just dropped the floor. My first thought was 'what if this were a fast spinning bit or blade'?


I've had the same experience with Fein blades.

I've had Fein blades separate three times in the last 12 years. 

I've purchased several replacement blades from Menard's, Harbor Freight and Rockwell with no failures (yet).


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## JIMMIEM (Apr 4, 2010)

*Harbor Freight Bits and Blades*



eccentrictinkerer said:


> I've had the same experience with Fein blades.
> 
> I've had Fein blades separate three times in the last 12 years.
> 
> I've purchased several replacement blades from Menard's, Harbor Freight and Rockwell with no failures (yet).


Did you contact Fein and let them know what had happened? The blade I was using was diamond grit. After returning the blade to HF I bought an Imperial blade which was 4X the price of the HF (Warrior). The Imperial was made from a solid piece of metal....no welds.


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