# Rust removal on table saw



## luvmyretirement (Oct 28, 2004)

I am having problems keeping surface rust off tool surfaces. Can anyone suggest the best product to use to REMOVE rust from metal surfaces and also what product is best used to KEEP the rust off.


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## cfm (Nov 4, 2004)

luvmyretirement said:


> I am having problems keeping surface rust off tool surfaces. Can anyone suggest the best product to use to REMOVE rust from metal surfaces and also what product is best used to KEEP the rust off.


Not too sure if Naval Jelly is best for tools, however it works great on other metals. With rust continuing to be a problem, I'd suggeat that HUMIDITY might be the primary problem. A light coat of oil will preserve a rust free surface, as a LAST RESORT - WD-40.


Hope this helps

cfm


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I read an article in one of the woodworking magazines suggesting WD-40 to be the best surface coating as far as resisting future rust based on their test results. The suggested method was to allow the clean metal to soak in WD-40 for 5 minutes, then to wipe dry. They also had a bunch of methods to remove the rust. I will sort through my collectiion and try to find which issue for you.
I have always used WD-40 and scotchbrite to clean my tools.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Ahh.... A chance for a newbie to contribute something  

Johnsons paste wax is great on the machine surface. Helps prevent rust as well as keep the surface slick and the stock moving freely. Another good choice is Top Coat which is a spray on and easier to apply. Both should be wiped and buffed a little after drying.


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## cabinetsetc (Jan 8, 2005)

*Rust*



Bob N said:


> Ahh.... A chance for a newbie to contribute something
> 
> Johnsons paste wax is great on the machine surface. Helps prevent rust as well as keep the surface slick and the stock moving freely. Another good choice is Top Coat which is a spray on and easier to apply. Both should be wiped and buffed a little after drying.


I had a table saw left outside for 3 weeks when I built my new shop. Used a grill stone on the surface(all I could find at the time) worked real good and sprayed with silicone spray that I keep to lubricate door hinges. But the wax sounds like a good idea though. I used to simonize my tool box to keep it looking good and protect it.


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

I heard from someone who restores cars he uses a "frog????" I forgot the name but I have also seen it mentioned in woodworking mag's. He says it the best he has ever come across for restoring rusty surfaces. Anyone know what I'm talking about????

I personal like to use wax to protect and lub..... do a search or look around I just put a message out on the subject of wax this past few days.....

Ed


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

OK OK I was a little off it is Bull-Frog...... as in:
www.bull-frog.com

look for the rust remover.......

If you go this way I'd like to hear what you think of the product.

Ed


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## bulldogrg (Sep 24, 2004)

*rusty table saw*

I was suggested to use an auto wax. Once the surface is clear of rust( and if you have one) use a high speed buffer and a finish wax. With car wax there should be no oily residue left on the table that will transfer to your work and should protect it for a while. I know for myself even this is hard to work seeing as that my shop is unheated and I live on the wet coast, but it is definitely better than nothing


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## Learning Herb (Sep 11, 2004)

I ues W-D 40 and 400 grit wet dry sand paper and some hard work . But it comes up real nice. Then I use a top grade wood paste wax Like Johnsons .But I do know that wood wax works a lot better than car wax .Car wax drys to hard and is not as slick.
Learning Herb


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## CanuckBeaver (Dec 23, 2004)

Learning Herb said:


> I ues W-D 40 and 400 grit wet dry sand paper and some hard work . But it comes up real nice. Then I use a top grade wood paste wax Like Johnsons .But I do know that wood wax works a lot better than car wax .Car wax drys to hard and is not as slick.
> Learning Herb


Just a note on WD-40. WD stands for Water Displacing, and the 40 is the 40th formula tried. TIP! Try scotchbrite pads (light pressure) or fine steel wool.

Reible wrote "OK OK I was a little off it is Bull-Frog...... as in:
www.bull-frog.com

look for the rust remover.......

If you go this way I'd like to hear what you think of the product."

Why do I have visions of you doing a google search of "Rusty + Frog"?   

Cheers!
CB


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

CanuckBeaver said:


> Just a note on WD-40. WD stands for Water Displacing, and the 40 is the 40th formula tried. TIP! Try scotchbrite pads (light pressure) or fine steel wool.
> 
> Reible wrote "OK OK I was a little off it is Bull-Frog...... as in:
> www.bull-frog.com
> ...


 I had alerted to the name because of what I had heard from a friend so I recalled seeing the product mentioned "Rust Removal & Prevention" where someone ask "A fine layer of rust has developed on my band saw tabletop...." The answer was Bull Frog Rust Remover and Bostik TopCote.
See the June 2004 issue of Workbench page 8. I was lucky it was the first copy I looked at and it was right inside the first few pages.... I don't always look to the web to find things but I could also see me doing that search and finding a lot of things other then what I wanted.

Ed


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## luvmyretirement (Oct 28, 2004)

Thanks for your suggestions everyone. I am going to try to purchase Bull Frog Rust Remover and then apply a coat of wax. I will post my results once I have tracked down the product.


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## JamesEMc (Nov 4, 2004)

I seem to recall a similar thread in another forum that advised against using auto wax on unpainted surfaces because many of them contain water - I use Johnson's on my BS as well as on squares, rulers and other items with bare steel exposed, including the old circular saw that I found in an open shed.


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## reible (Sep 10, 2004)

FYI

My order arrived today for a 16oz bottle of Bullfrog. $11.95 + 5.00 S&H (US) from Klingspor's.

Ed


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Boeshield T-9 kit (rust remover-rust preventer) seems to be working pretty well for me.


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## eddie blair phillips (Nov 25, 2004)

*BigEd*



Learning Herb said:


> I ues W-D 40 and 400 grit wet dry sand paper and some hard work . But it comes up real nice. Then I use a top grade wood paste wax Like Johnsons .But I do know that wood wax works a lot better than car wax .Car wax drys to hard and is not as slick.
> Learning Herb


Good idea Herb gave you the only thing I do different ( I have a humidity
problem ) is after the WD-40 treatment I scrub with a medium steel wool
it gets down deep into the little grooves
Big Ed


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## Dustylayer (Sep 11, 2004)

There is another alternative. Try Oxisolv rust remover, followed by Boeshield Rust & corrosion protection. Both products together set me back $20. However, I live in the Seattle area and rust/corrosion is a problem. After all, after living here for more than two years your toes will web together from the humidity and moisture. 

Honestly, though. My Jointer, bandsaw tables, and router bit shanks have remained virtually rust free with treatment from Boeshield T-9, after cleaning with Oxisolv. I'm sold on the products, even though a bit costly. I would follow the advice of others though that a light coat of paste wax is a great idea.

My 2 cents worth.

Clay


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## sclaxton (Aug 8, 2009)

I have used WD-40 and 800 grit wet dry sandpaper from the auto supply store with great success. I have also read that auto paste wax often contains silicon which can transfer to wood plugging the pores and causing a problem with finishing. Not sure this is true but it seems to make sense.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Even though this thread is 4.5 years old, the subject always comes up.
I have switched from using WD-40 to Bar Keepers Friend.

A powder in a can you mix with water and scrub on the surface. Rinse it off good, dry the top, and apply FURNITURE wax. You are correct that auto wax is bad.
Welcome to the forum Steve.


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## a1tomo (Dec 3, 2008)

Still using Johnson's paste wax after 30 years on the "wet" coast. Not a speck of rust on any of my cast iron tables. If rust does show up, scoth brite pad cut to size on the hook 'n loop random orbit sander makes the removal process a piece of cake. Wax after clean up. 

Bob'n is right again!


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## sclaxton (Aug 8, 2009)

Where do you buy your scotch brit pads. I tried 2 grocery stores and all the had were the scitch brite attached to a sponge that had some type of cleaning agent already in the sponge. Probably a silly question but trying to avoid visiting a bunch of stores.


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

sclaxton said:


> Where do you buy your scotch brit pads. I tried 2 grocery stores and all the had were the scitch brite attached to a sponge that had some type of cleaning agent already in the sponge. Probably a silly question but trying to avoid visiting a bunch of stores.




.

I get mine from mcmaster-carr or grainger.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Engine bright and light steel wooling to clean the rust off, then spray it down with WD-40 let it sit longer then 5 minutes though. Give it an hour or so. Then wipe it clean and apply silicone spray to the table top surface.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

sclaxton said:


> Where do you buy your scotch brit pads. I tried 2 grocery stores and all the had were the scitch brite attached to a sponge that had some type of cleaning agent already in the sponge. Probably a silly question but trying to avoid visiting a bunch of stores.


this is all you need It work the best of anything out their Make's the saw look like new and keep's it that way That is what i use on all my equiptment 

Boeshield T-9, 12 oz. Aerosol The Rust Store - Rust Removers


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Duane867 said:


> Engine bright and light steel wooling to clean the rust off, then spray it down with WD-40 let it sit longer then 5 minutes though. Give it an hour or so. Then wipe it clean and apply silicone spray to the table top surface.



Silicone spray is not recommended for woodworking tools as it wil make the wood difficult if not impossible to apply a good finish.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

*Boeshield +1*



del schisler said:


> this is all you need It work the best of anything out their Make's the saw look like new and keep's it that way That is what i use on all my equiptment
> 
> Boeshield T-9, 12 oz. Aerosol The Rust Store - Rust Removers


+1 on Boeshield

I was looking for Boeshield products to buy locally in Alaska (haz materials freight is very expensive in small quantities) and found myself emailing with a representative for Boeshield Canada. He recommended West Marine here in Anchorage. I hadn't thought about it but marine applications certainly deal with rust!

He was very helpful and went on to say the key thing for removing the rust was to look for Phosphoric (sp) acid on the ingredient list, as used in their "Rust Free".

For keeping it away, he indicated that paste wax (Johnsons, et. al.) was the proven traditional "best" solution for rust prevention. 

He added that their T-9 contained paste wax suspended in solvent, along with some proprietary ingredients to enhance the rust prevention. The main advantages of the spray, he said, was that it spread evenly into tight areas like miter gauge slots that may be missed when paste wax is applied by hand. A fresh spray & wipe makes wood glide on the surface (no silicone, I asked). For a tool that you're not going to use for several months (like for those where it gets too hot or cold to use your tools for a period of time) they recommend spraying on a heavier coat and not wiping it off. When you return, another spraying will dissolve the outer coat of waxm permitting easy cleanup.

These are the words from Boeshield. Take them for whatever you believe they are worth. What I can say is I've used both on my table saw, jointer, planer, drill press, band saw and scroll saw and any rust present was quickly removed and the surfaces look like new with the T-9 on them.

Obviously this will not regrow rusted-away material or quickly eat away mega-rust. For mega-rust, eloctrolysis or some other technique may be more appropriate.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Silicone is a :nono:. This will effect any wood. I to use the Beoshield T-9 along with furniture wax. IMHO, furniture wax or bees wax are about the best that one can apply to their tools for rust prevention. It should be a known fact, the more you use a tool, more often should these preventive steps be taken.


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

BigJimAK said:


> +1 on Boeshield
> 
> a representative for Boeshield Canada. He was very helpful and went on to say the key thing for removing the rust was to look for Phosphoric (sp) acid on the ingredient list, as used in their "Rust Free".


Jim, I'm glad to see you post that, because I use phosphoric, but was reluctant to recommend such a caustic product, for fear the toxic gas police would come after me. 

I am very careful to use it only outdoors and stay upwind. If I were to do it indoors, I would do a little research on the best mask/cartridge combination to wear. The fumes are really bad. 

We also used it on aluminum aircraft, not only to kill corrosion, but to etch prior to priming and painting. There is a product called Ospho, which is mostly phosphoric acid. It is pretty good, too. 

And, another +1 on the Boeshield. It always scores well on the tests I read. 

Corrosion Prevention Compounds Testing - Salt Spray

BTW, I like it as a bicycle chain and moving parts lube.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Bill,

If a person has a respirator that has cartridges, then look for a filter that has charcoal. This is specifically designed to handle caustic fumes.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

It's probably a lot weaker than what is used to etch aircraft; I'll check the label on my bottle when I get home tonight and post the concentration.


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## 3efingers (Dec 21, 2006)

I use steel wool on my table saw and I bought a big can of Slipit a few years back, works great, inhibits rust, makes the saw slick and does not harm or discolor wood, just clean the saw, brush on slipit wipe off excess and make more sawdust!


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Bob said:


> Silicone spray is not recommended for woodworking tools as it will make the wood difficult if not impossible to apply a good finish.


It dries almost instantly after being sprayed on the table via spray can. 
Does silicone residue transfer ? I did forget to mention one VERY important thing though... silicone spray will etch aluminum. So if you have an aluminum table top definitely skip the silicone.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Duane867 said:


> It dries almost instantly after being sprayed on the table via spray can.
> Does silicone residue transfer ? I did forget to mention one VERY important thing though... silicone spray will etch aluminum. So if you have an aluminum table top definitely skip the silicone.


I don't allow the stuff in my shop.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

I have yet again learned something new and valuable from this site then


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

Duane867 said:


> silicone spray will etch aluminum.


I would be interested in learning more on that. Do you have any more info on that, or can you refer me to any sources?


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

Here is a link to Power Boat Magazine's test of corrosion inhibitors. Scroll down to page 227.

Powerboat Reports Guide to Powerboat ... - Google Books


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

If it doesn't etch it it stains it good. 
I found that it was an excellent grease cutter one day by accident and sprayed some on my engine casing and my jugs on my bike. Let it sit for about a minute. Sprayed it off and in every spot there was silicone spray sitting the aluminum was stained/ etched.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I checked the label on my Boeshield rust remover tonight but, besides the warning that it contained phosphoric acid, it did not list the concentration. I also went to the Boeshield web site to check their MSDS but it said to contact them for it. Oh well..


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

HF sells a product Evapo O Rust which works great for removing rust and is advertised as non toxic. It does leave a grey residue. Scotchbrite pads and a little light machine oil work good too.
rstermer


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

rstermer said:


> HF sells a product Evapo O Rust which works great for removing rust and is advertised as non toxic. It does leave a grey residue.
> rstermer



I am not sure this is a good product for a TS. It works well to restore old rusty hand tools, but leaves a tarnish look and I am not sure that is what most want their tops to end up looking like. A good product otherwise like you said, just not sure about using on iron tops.


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## Jim Champaigne (Aug 26, 2009)

Rusty surface: I have a nice 8" jointer in the basement that can attract rust. I purchased a dehumidifier and it runs all the time. Keeps the rust to a minimum. I, too use WD-40, but will try the wood wax. Good idea. Thanks.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Jim,

Wood wax (Johnson's etc.) is the tried and true solution!

If you know you aren't going to use it for an extended time you can also consider a product like Boeshield. Essentially it is Johnsons in a spray can. It has some solvents to let it spray that evaporate pretty quickly. The rep recommended spraying it on "heavy" and letting it "dry" when the tool is going to be stored, to provide a thick even coating. When yo want to use it later, spray it again and the solvents will soften the residue and it wipes off. I tried it on my cast iron scroll saw table (it was a gift I don't use a lot) and stored it for several months. The spray did a good job of covering the edges around the blade insert and I'd expect it to work as well for miter slots edges, etc. When I needed it several months later, it cleaned up great! 

Just another option..


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

WD-40 does not remove rust. It prevents moisture from accumulating.
I think the only good use for it is to spray your leather boots to water proof them.


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

I use WD-40, on a very rusty surface (like saw top or band saw table) then will use a wire brush in a grinder it removes the rust like magic then will add another coat of WD-40 then let it set for a day, then wipe it off and apply a good coat of wax (Johnson's past wax) no more rust. my saw has set a year after this treatment and still no rust.. Works for me..


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I used to use WD-40 then found Bar Keepers Friend. Does a great job but use it in a ventilated area.


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

AxlMyk said:


> WD-40 does not remove rust. It prevents moisture from accumulating.
> I think the only good use for it is to spray your leather boots to water proof them.


Haven't tried this myself, but I've got friends who swear spraying a little on a fishing lure will get the fish biting on a slow day.
rstermer


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## mike l. (Sep 2, 2009)

hello ,if you have any old kerosene or new paint it on the metal surfaces witha brush and let it set overnite. then use 000 steel wool and rub it down to remove the rust. do this a few times and then apply a coat lite oil or wax. should look good as new if the rust hasn`t pitted the metal. mike


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

My rust removal is a process. I start with WD-40 or any of the rust removal products on the market and there are hundreds. I use either fine steel wool (last resort) or dish washing sponges the kind with course on one side and fine on the other. 

Scrub everything down well and clean thoroughly. Leave no residue. Then coat sparingly with Boeshield T-9 and, again polish thoroughly. Last step is Johnson's paste wax (for floors) let harden and polish. Good for several months.

HTH


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## 81Custom (Apr 1, 2007)

most of you fellows have alot more time in the shop than I do, but I will give my opinion. I use nothing to remove rust, except 600-1000 grit paper and elbow grease.these are used in steps, like sharpening. after I have the surface acceptably cleaned, then I apply 3 coats of Johnsons' wax. in all of the forums that I frequent, most say do NOT use anything with silicone.. that goes for WD40 as well. furniture paste wax, in multiple coats, appears to provide the best protection, according to most posts I read on the subject. after the 3 coats are applied, I then sprinkle baby powder on the surface for a lubricating affect( a trick shown me by a cabinet-maker friend of mine). it will not penetrate any wood, and will make sliding boards much easier. it's relatively cheap,thereby allowing re-applying whenever needed without worry. I have found, however, that without the powder, the wax requires re-applying after moderate use.it seems as the wax wears faster from moderate use. you may/maynot find this to be true for you, but it's what I've found. the key to rust prevention is in the wax, plain and simple. the powder only "lubricates" the surface....


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Thanks Butch, baby powder is something new to me and I am anxious to give it a shot.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

rstermer said:


> Haven't tried this myself, but I've got friends who swear spraying a little on a fishing lure will get the fish biting on a slow day.
> rstermer


Remember " bait max spray " back in the late 80's ?
That was an ingredient in it so I wouldn't doubt it works to some degree.


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## hcim (Sep 13, 2009)

WD-40 ?


rstermer said:


> Haven't tried this myself, but I've got friends who swear spraying a little on a fishing lure will get the fish biting on a slow day.
> rstermer


:lol: Good one, I'd try that trick one day!!


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## goldfire39 (Sep 17, 2009)

I'm new so I don't know if I'm beating a dead horse by adding to this post but after reading all of it one product I did not see that I have been using for years is CRC SP-400. If the equipment is not in use or has to go outside for any length of time this stuff is amazing. In the machine shop when ever we lay up equipment or tooling or have fresh machined surfaces that will sit in inventory a liberal appliction of this stuff lets them keep for years. I will check out the paste wax thing as far as equipment in use it sounds like just the ticket. As far as rust removal I will add another vote for WD-40 and scotch brite pads. If you cant get it out with that then its been sitting long enough for SP-400.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

goldfire39 said:


> I'm new so I don't know if I'm beating a dead horse by adding to this post but after reading all of it one product I did not see that I have been using for years is CRC SP-400. If the equipment is not in use or has to go outside for any length of time this stuff is amazing. In the machine shop when ever we lay up equipment or tooling or have fresh machined surfaces that will sit in inventory a liberal appliction of this stuff lets them keep for years. I will check out the paste wax thing as far as equipment in use it sounds like just the ticket. As far as rust removal I will add another vote for WD-40 and scotch brite pads. If you cant get it out with that then its been sitting long enough for SP-400.


Hi Morgan:

Ok, this stuff sounds good. Now, my current procedure is to clean and polish and I've modified it (according to input above,) to include baby powder. Now, where does the CRC SP400 fit into this scheme?

Do I still have to clean with WD-40?
The manufacturer specifies that SP-400 is for storage. Can I put Boeshield T-9 on top of it? T-9 is made for table saw tops etc. where material will slide across. I wax to prolong the T-9 and baby powder to prolong the wax.
CRC specifies that the effective coating is 2 mil thick and makes no suggestion as to a top coating only that it is for prolonged storage.

Thanks for the input. Even if not used in production it sounds good for those less used tools.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

WD-40 is not for rust removal. It prevents water from collecting.
Bar Keepers Friend is Oxalic acid. It removes the rust, and leaves a shiny surface. Follow with paste wax.

From Wikipedia;*
* 

*In household chemical products such as Bar Keeper's Friend, Zud, some bleaches, and rustproofing treatments.*
*In wood restorers where the acid dissolves away a layer of dry surface wood to expose fresh material underneath.*
*As an additive to automotive wheel cleaners.*
As a mordant in dyeing processes.
Used in platinotype, the early photographic Platinum/Palladium printing process.
Vaporized oxalic acid, or a 6% solution of oxalic acid in sugar syrup, is used by some beekeepers as an insecticide against the parasitic Varroa mite.
*As a rust remover in such applications as automotive shops and for the restoration of antiques.*
As a recommended surface pretreatment for stainless steels (surface etch) before application of solid metal or polymer self-lubricating coatings.
For polishing stones and marble.
Used in the acid treatment for destroying warts.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

AxlMyk said:


> WD-40 is not for rust removal. It prevents water from collecting.
> Bar Keepers Friend is Oxalic acid. It removes the rust, and leaves a shiny surface. Follow with paste wax.
> 
> From Wikipedia;*
> ...


Hi Mike:

I took a look at the hazards sheet for Oxalic acid. Is there something else a little less difficult or is there a "crippled" form? This is like the 13% chlorine I had to use - scary.


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## goldfire39 (Sep 17, 2009)

Ron, I have a scroll saw I just bought second hand that the tables a little messed up, I will try the different compounds in the next few days and take notes to see what works well and post back here. Im going to try the wax and baby powder, wd-40, the t-9 and the SP-400 alone and in combinations to see what happeneds


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

*rust removel*

this is the only two thing's that you need to use I have used these and not 1 rust spot And the bed's on all my unit's table saw scroll saw band saw drill press plate Can't thank of any more but here they are rust free first than Boeshield Rust Free Spray

than this one 

Boeshield T-9, 12 oz. Aerosol

read the direction's on each can I wouldn't be with out eather one On the T9 i use it on the table saw all the time It sure make's it slick and nothing get on the wood good luck


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

It's funny how many seem to think that WD40 is a rust remover. It isn't. To remove rust, you need a rust penetrating oil. Again, WD40 isn't such. I guess each their own. 

T-9 Boeshield, Top-Saver, Toolsaver, and Rust-Free along with paste wax. Occasionally I'll add Slip-it to the machine surfaces.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

goldfire39 said:


> Ron, I have a scroll saw I just bought second hand that the tables a little messed up, I will try the different compounds in the next few days and take notes to see what works well and post back here. Im going to try the wax and baby powder, wd-40, the t-9 and the SP-400 alone and in combinations to see what happeneds


Morgan:

Thank you. We look forward to your results.

Hi Ken: 

I agree, WD-40 isn't the answer but it does help clean off rust when used with a plastic scrubbing pad. That's the way I do my tables and it works. What I like is that it doesn't react with the T-9 or the wax. I don't know about the baby powder though ;-)


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

allthunbs said:


> Morgan:
> 
> Thank you. We look forward to your results.
> 
> ...


Personally, I like Kroil, when I can find it. Getting hard to find out here. Saturate a pad of steel wool and go to it.

KanoLabs.com


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

I'm cheap old SOB,, I pickup some Liquid Wrench from the auto parts store,,spray it on the metal top and let it sit for about 10 mins, and just wipe the rust off,, then put on some Johnson paste wax..

==


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## machinistchest (Jun 24, 2009)

Easy off oven cleaner! I`t`ll clean up the sap off your saw blades too ,just spray some on the blade and take a cut...MC


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