# Micro Adjuster Router table



## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Decided on this new router table I would have a micro adjuster. Up until now I've been a bump and try it guy.

Al


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Thanks for showing Al.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Simple concept that works, Al.

I found the micro adjuster on the Triton RTA100 router table very easy to use...


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

jw2170 said:


> Simple concept that works, Al.
> 
> I found the micro adjuster on the Triton RTA100 router table very easy to use...



Does that adjust the fence? 

My router lift also micro adjusts in the lift. Which is a must as you guys know.

Al


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Would love a follow-up about your using it.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Looks a lot beefier than the one Kreg sells. Who makes it?


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

*Using?*



paduke said:


> Would love a follow-up about your using it.


Using the lift, router table or the micro adjuster? 

I've worked with this router lift on a router table and also on a mortise maching that were before two different machines for more than 2 years.

This unit has them combined using only one lift. And why not. It has turned out to be everything I expected it to be. I'm just disappointed there isn't more posts the that thread on the unit.

Al


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## toleng (Dec 1, 2014)

*here is my DIY micro adjuster*

Allow me, please, to show here my DIY micro adjuster. It is made from aluminium parts, behind an exception of steel adjusting screw. 
PS: Router Table isn't ended yet.


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

Nice workmanship on the micro adjust


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## Rogerdodge (Apr 24, 2014)

al m said:


> Nice workmanship on the micro adjust



+1 on that , Sergei , thanks for posting.


Rog


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Very nice. Here we use inches so my adjuster uses a 3/8"-16 adjuster screw. This makes it easier to determine how much you actually moving the fence. 

With the adjuster on the end of the fence. One complete turn of the screw would move the fence 1/32" because your only moving one end of the fence so it's half the distance. 

Some feel a fine thread screw is needed but if I turn the screw just one quarter turn it only moves the fence 1/128th of an inch. Which in woodworking can't be measured. 

Al


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## toleng (Dec 1, 2014)

Thanks to everybody !
I have one additional screw with a fine thread (0,5 mm), but can'n find an appropriate tap-bore for it.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

toleng said:


> Thanks to everybody !
> I have one additional screw with a fine thread (0,5 mm), but can'n find an appropriate tap-bore for it.


If the adjustment was directly behind the bit. It would warrant a fine thread. But it's on the end of the fence. So it's micro at that.

Nice job.

Al


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## toleng (Dec 1, 2014)

Thanks, Al !I am Absolutely agree with you.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The engineering is beautiful but personally I prefer a very basic fence, the Ubeaut fence with all the bells and whistles that came with my router table lives under a bench collecting dust.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

Harry
I thought you were keeping it simple. That's tantamount to a small shaper. If I run a split fence its on my shaper. I just want something to press out a smidg or a fuge. Maybe a scosh closer. A smidgen. A hair. One little teence. What ever comes after 1/64"

Al


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Wow, you've got serious skills, Sergei. 
Your English is great, but just for your own info, completed and finished mean the same thing, but "ended" is a bit different. For example :
'The marriage is ended'. meaning it's over. 

....OK, you know what? Forget I mentioned it; English is bizarre!


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## toleng (Dec 1, 2014)

Thanks You for the amendment, Dan! Really, English is bizarre, Russian much more


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Al B Thayer said:


> Harry
> I thought you were keeping it simple. That's tantamount to a small shaper. If I run a split fence its on my shaper. I just want something to press out a smidg or a fuge. Maybe a scosh closer. A smidgen. A hair. One little teence. What ever comes after 1/64"
> 
> Al


Al., I don't ever use that fence, all my table work is done using the basic tall fence.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

This brings up a question or several. I don't have a micro adjustable fence, just the original Grizzly split fence that came with the table. Since that original is a split and adjustable fence, every once in a while a work piece will 'hang' on the out (LH) side. I've considered putting one together such as what Harry shows though maybe not quite so high then adding some sort of turnbuckle adjuster. The questions, will the solid fence reduce the hangups? Does it in general, work better overall for almost all work?

Sergei - that is a very nicely made adjuster - and your English language skills are fine (and a bunch better then most of our Russian:wacko. Spend more time here and you will be surprised how much idiomatic English you will pick up without even trying.


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## toleng (Dec 1, 2014)

IC31 said:


> Sergei - that is a very nicely made adjuster - and your English language skills are fine (and a bunch better then most of our Russian:wacko. Spend more time here and you will be surprised how much idiomatic English you will pick up without even trying.


Dave, I am absolutely agree with you. It is only necessary not to be lazy to read and write.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I see the design and workmanship that went into making the fine adjusters and I am impressed with the skill involved. And then Harry posts the fence he put away and the one he uses instead and I am reminded of Bob and Rick Rosendahl from the Router Workshop TV show. Their fence was c-clamped onto the table and when they needed fine adjustment they got out their fine adjustment tool, namely an old claw hammer, and would give the fence a couple of good whacks with it. And it worked. Both methods work. I think it is a general rule that people tend to over engineer many problems, that we have convinced ourselves before we start that the problem is more complicated than it really needs to be. However, if you like the system you are using, it makes sense to you and makes you feel good using it, then it is the right solution for you.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

IC31 said:


> This brings up a question or several. I don't have a micro adjustable fence, just the original Grizzly split fence that came with the table. Since that original is a split and adjustable fence, every once in a while a work piece will 'hang' on the out (LH) side. I've considered putting one together such as what Harry shows though maybe not quite so high then adding some sort of turnbuckle adjuster. The questions, will the solid fence reduce the hangups? Does it in general, work better overall for almost all work?
> 
> Sergei - that is a very nicely made adjuster - and your English language skills are fine (and a bunch better then most of our Russian:wacko. Spend more time here and you will be surprised how much idiomatic English you will pick up without even trying.


If "hang" refers to the work-piece getting caught against the leading edge of the out-feed then of course that cannot happen with a simple fence like mine. Where zero clearance is required I clamp a sheet of MDF to the fence and draw the fence through the bit. Because I have a jointer I don't normally need to use the router table for planing but it can be done easily as shown.
I've mentioned a number of times that after buying my present router table with the "Ubeaut" fence, the joints on my boxes started to deteriorate and it was some time before I realized it was the complex fence. After making the simple tall one my boxes once more became perfect.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

harrysin said:


> If "hang" refers to the work-piece getting caught against the leading edge of the out-feed then of course that cannot happen with a simple fence like mine. Where zero clearance is required I clamp a sheet of MDF to the fence and draw the fence through the bit. Because I have a jointer I don't normally need to use the router table for planing but it can be done easily as shown.
> I've mentioned a number of times that after buying my present router table with the "Ubeaut" fence, the joints on my boxes started to deteriorate and it was some time before I realized it was the complex fence. After making the simple tall one my boxes once more became perfect.


Thanks Harry - that and the photos answered my question very nicely and added another little project to my short list ( a jointer or jointer-planer are on my list but so far down, probably never surface so I do use alternate methods of 'fixing' my wood pieces)


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