# Kitchen Cabinet



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I had a client ask me to fix his problem with his new fridge he recently purchased. The old saying measure twice cut once also applies to buying new appliances for the kitchen. As it turns out the back of the fridge barely slid into the opening, however, the front of the fridge was higher due to the hinges. The height difference made it impossible to open the doors for the cabinet directly over the fridge.

My job was to try and salvage the old cabinet or build a new one. As it turns out I bult a new one and took some photos to show what I did. This project was challenging because I had to match the existing cabinet in style and size with the exception of the height of the cabinet. 

To determine the new height I also had to account for a new floor being installed by yours truly in the not to distant future. This made the cabinet height smaller to allow for the new floor to be installed as well as the doors opening.

As usual I have taken some photos to show you step by step what I did. All photos have a brief explanation telling you what I did and why.

Enjoy! this was a 20 hr project with all the running around I had to do but was fun.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Some more photos


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

All that is left is to drill the euro hinges and mount the hinges to the cabinet door and cabinet. I will have to drill a hole for the pulls as well.

Stay tune! I will also show some pics of the cabinet installed above the fridge.


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Dan, really nice and I also like the description with each photo, (not that I'm gonna start doing that, but I like it)!


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

Nice job Dan and useful pics.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I love to see how the professionals do it.

Thanks for posting, Dan,

PS: love you comments on the pics. Makes it easy to follow if you get the pics out of order........


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## thomas1389 (Jan 4, 2012)

Seeing the results of someone elses work adds to my confidence that some day, maybe soon, I'll have enough to start on the kitchen cupboards that I've been dreaming about for some time.
Thanks for the pictures and the explanations.


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

I had not thought of using moulding for the profile on the inside edge of the styles. Was the original door decorated with moulding or was it routed/shaped? I've built a couple of replacement doors to match a customer's existing kitchen. One of the hardest part was finding the right router bits.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Everend said:


> I had not thought of using moulding for the profile on the inside edge of the styles. Was the original door decorated with moulding or was it routed/shaped? I've built a couple of replacement doors to match a customer's existing kitchen. One of the hardest part was finding the right router bits.


The original door was made using the traditional cope and stick router bit set. I did find a set that matched the existing door but the set was $130 at Homepot. I did not want to spend the extra money on the router bit set. Instead I chose a cheaper alternative by buying some moulding and then modifying the moulding ever so slightly to achieve the same results for a fraction of the cost.

Making the doors only requires a tablesaw. Mind you for this project I tried using the router table for making the stub tenons and liked the result. It enabled me to use the tablesaw as well. One day soon I will purchase the tongue and groove set to make doors. By having two router tables it will enable me to set both the rail and stile bit in each of the tables to significantly speed the process up.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

thomas1389 said:


> Seeing the results of someone elses work adds to my confidence that some day, maybe soon, I'll have enough to start on the kitchen cupboards that I've been dreaming about for some time.
> Thanks for the pictures and the explanations.


Thomas I am sure you can do this. The key is to take your time and don't sweat the small stuff it is all small stuff! 

I have attached the sketchup drawing I did as well. I apologize for the drawing it is not dimensioned and laid out properly. By using Sketchup you pre-build your project and it becomes clear in your mind what to do. 

You will be surprised Thomas how easy this is once you take the first step. 

Good luck and thanks for your kind words and taking the time to share with me your comments.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Today I took the doors apart and sanded all the pieces before final glue up.

I have taken a few more pictures showing you how I sanded and provided some tips I have found works for me in ensuring a good glue up.

I for one hate sanding but it is a make or break for any project. There are some tricks I have learned along the way and in the next few photos you look at you will see some of the things I do to help make it all come together.

Stay tune for drilling the 35mm hole for the hinge and see how easy it is to install these European hinges.


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

European hinges are very easy to fit as long as you ensure that your center point is marked accurately and you use the correct cutter with a centering point, like a Forstner bit. If you're going to fit a lot of them, I recommend making a template, then it's a breeze.
Obviously you also need to get your depth set correctly too.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Because this is a router forum

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18060&site=ROCKLER

=


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Here is the easy way to drill European hinges


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

As we all know there are many ways to skin a cat, while the jigs are easy I have no doubt so is the drill press and a 35mm special bit for just the purpose of drilling the hole.

To make sure I have the exact measurement I use .........? 

Hint there is a story behind this trick!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Because this is a router forum
> 
> http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=18060&site=ROCKLER
> 
> =


I did use the router table for this project for making the stub tenons.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Dan
My idea of little humor ( little expensive for a few door hinges)


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Semipro said:


> Dan
> My idea of little humor ( little expensive for a few door hinges)


Indeed LOL


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

TRN_Diesel said:


> As we all know there are many ways to skin a cat, while the jigs are easy I have no doubt so is the drill press and a 35mm special bit for just the purpose of drilling the hole.
> 
> To make sure I have the exact measurement I use .........?
> 
> Hint there is a story behind this trick!


Indeed. I do it the same way.


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

Wow Dan, nice work!


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Dan, in one word --- AWESOME!! 

And Thomas, a cabinet is nothing more then a box with a frame in front. If someone would have told me two years ago, that I would make my own kitchen full of cabinets, I'd would have had that person committed. I started with a bathroom vanity, I like it, the wife like it, along with a few others, and so I decided, "why not!" Now, 1 vanity and 7 kitchen cabinets later, I know that not only that I CAN do it, I DID do it! LOL And they must be pretty good, because I've had to turn down several people who asked if I'd build their kitchen cabinets.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

This morning I got a few hours in the shop and managed to get the Eurpean hinges installed along with the door pulls.

There are two critical measurement to get right here are the center lines for each 35mm hole in relation to the cabinet. Secondly, the distance back from the edge to drill the 35mm hole into the stile side of the door cabinet.

Most Euro hinges use between 1/8 - 1/4". If you use Blum hinges like I do the measurement is 23mm. You can set a small combination square to 23mm or you can use another method. I use the combo square to mark 3 1/2" down from the top and up from the bottom of the cabinet.

Not to be "OUT JIGGED" I purchased a simple marking gauge for the 23mm distance to be drilled on the drill press table using a 35mm Forester bit. (Buy Hingemark - B2734 from Busy Bee Tools) 

I have built a few cabinets and plan on building a few more before I take the dirt nap for good. The Dimar bit I purchased is top of the line and I am glad I purchased the bit for its sole purpose of drilling the holes to accept the Euro hinges.

In my last entry I told you I would share with you how I lay out my hinges. Well here is the whole "story" with pictures explaining the steps I take to install the hinges.

I will be installing the cabinet tomorrow morning and will take a few more pictures of it in place. The client found his paint and will do the doors himself.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I got the cabinet installed today over top the fridge. I did not have a helper so I had to make do on my own.

I have taken a few more pictures to show you how and what I did.

The client is very pleased and that makes me happy too!

Thanks for following along and I hope this inspires you to build your own kitchen cabinets one day.


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

TRN_Diesel said:


> I got the cabinet installed today over top the fridge. I did not have a helper so I had to make do on my own.
> 
> I have taken a few more pictures to show you how and what I did.
> 
> ...


Nice to see bespoke kitchen furniture. In the UK it's now quite unusual with most fitters using either flatpacks or ready assembled cabinets. Even so, many of the carcases are made from particle board with MDF or the occasional real wood doors.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Sorry Allan I am not familiar with the term "bespoke". Can you elaborate further?


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Dan, again, super job! But is it just me (and you don't have to tell your client...) but that refrigerator just don't fit that kitchen/style. It just looks huge for the kitchen, in my opinion..


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

LMAO I hear ya but a guy can only do so much!


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## WurliTzerwilly (Jun 9, 2013)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Sorry Allan I am not familiar with the term "bespoke". Can you elaborate further?


Bespoke is used a lot in the men's tailoring industry and has migrated to most other things. It's generally used to mean "made to measure - to the order of the customer".

Bespoke - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

It was mostly the first part that I was referring to - made to measure, rather than the box-shifters cheapo (often sub-standard) offerings.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks Allan I learned a new word today. 

Most of what I build for people is custom because during the renovation process you can never find the same thing 15-20 years later.

For me it does not have to be cookie cutter.

BTW I got an email last night from the client and I quote "Dude the cabinet looks terrific. Really nice work again with our thanks."


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Hi, Dan.

I like your job. As usual, plenty of details.

Recently I made a cabinet for my daugther´s office and I used the european hinges in the doors. I used 22mm as the distance from the door´s edges to the center of the holes. They fitted very well.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Hi Alexis

Yes 22 mm is the magic distance, hence the yellow jig I use. It marks it perfect everytime. 

Maybe I should get a metric ruler someday just in case? lol


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