# Staining end grain



## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

I find that when I stain end grain, it comes out much darker than the straight grain portions of the piece I'm working on. Is there a way to get the end grain portions of the work to take the stain the same as the straight grain portions? I'd like them to match.
rstermer


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

They may never exactly match,but you can get the end grain a bit lighter. The way I do it now is to sand the end grain to a higher(finer) grit than the long grain and then apply a spit coat(very thin) of shellac before the stain. Experiment on sample boards first.

Regards

Jerry


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

I use a low angle block plane on end grain which really tightens the grain and prevents it from "sponging" the stain so badly. It gives me a much closer match, athough not perfect.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Jerry, now that I have been introduced to Shellac and am finding it quite wonderful on everything that I've tried except pens, I will remember this tip regarding end grain which I have always had difficulty with.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob, if only I had your hand tool skills, I would go on a spending spree for the finest in hand planes.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I also do the same as Bob,,, in order to get a nice finish on the end grain is must be smooth and clean..you can sand it but the plane can do it just a bit better.. 

The Shooting Board 
http://www.whitemountdesign.com/ShootingBoard.htm


At one time I had a cast iron machine that was made just for that job,,, it was a OLD tool that took two people to move around, big sucker  it had a 6" tall skew angle blade and a handle that would move the blade by the sock...I think it was for making picture frames but it worked great for just about all end grains..


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

I wasn't aware that many people used hand tools in general and planes in particular. I'm sure you know this but you don't need a block plane to cut end grain any well tuned plane will do a good job. Although I use many power tools I still use many hand tools on every project.

Regards

Jerry


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

jerrymayfield said:


> They may never exactly match,but you can get the end grain a bit lighter. The way I do it now is to sand the end grain to a higher(finer) grit than the long grain and then apply a spit coat(very thin) of shellac before the stain. Experiment on sample boards first.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Jerry


Jerry-Thanks for the idea. Its too late to try it on the current project, but I'll certainly give it a try on the next one.
Regards,
rstermer


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

Bob said:


> I use a low angle block plane on end grain which really tightens the grain and prevents it from "sponging" the stain so badly. It gives me a much closer match, athough not perfect.


Thanks Bob, next time I have a project where I can plane the end grain, I'll try that. Might even try a practice board or two to get the technique down!
rstermer


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## scraps to treasures (Mar 13, 2008)

On the project I just finished I used a sanding sealer after using 220 grit paper and then hand rubbed the stain and it came out perfect.


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## Jack Lavallet (Aug 11, 2008)

Two suggestions... first, apply a diluted (wash) coat of sealer (IE 1/2-1/2 mix of oil poly and mineral spirits) to the end grain. This will slow the absorption of the stain. Then, use less, or a lighter stain overall. Then use a gel version stain of the final color you want as a glaze. Wipe it on after the top coat of finish. You can put a diluted colorless coat of finish over the glaze if you want. This puts more of the final color up in the finish, where you control it rather that in the wood, where absorption rate controls it. Glaze is easy to apply, easy to control, and gives very nice color. My .02 worth. (I've just noticed we no longer have a "cents" key on the computer. ???)


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

Scraps to treasures, You've got it just right, seal with a shellac based sanding sealer and you overcome the problem.


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