# Scissor Lift Workbench



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Got this in an email today. Looks pretty neat.
Scissor-Lift Workbench | Woodsmith Plans


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Got this in an email today. Looks pretty neat.
> Scissor-Lift Workbench | Woodsmith Plans


Already done some shopping Hu-Lift Equipment TC22P Mobile Scissor Lift Table, 500-Pound Capacity, 9-1/4-Inch to 28-1/2-Inch Height: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific Guess I'd better see if I have room for it first, stacking the shop vac on top of the dust separator will help, but..............


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike I like your version the best so far as without your locking outside supports IMO this one posted here could possibly be to wobbly .
I'm still going to attempt building my chain driven adjustable work height router/ outfield/ workbench table


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

That's a cool idea Mike, betcha I could do something like this with my J&S motorcycle lift. That'll give it something to do while it's waiting for me to work on the Harley!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

If you don't mind making the bench part...and slightly less fancy lift mech...
https://www.kmstools.com/mechanical-motorcycle-lift-4421


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

In case you haven't seen it, I built an adjustable height work table w/dual routers. It works great, especially since I have cramped working quarters. Router table, assembly table, extension table for my outfeed table/workbench. Lots of possibilities.

Adjustable Height Worktable/Dual Router Table


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> In case you haven't seen it, I built an adjustable height work table w/dual routers. It works great, especially since I have cramped working quarters. Router table, assembly table, extension table for my outfeed table/workbench. Lots of possibilities.
> 
> Adjustable Height Worktable/Dual Router Table


Mike I've always admired the job you did building and designing your router combo work station , and that is what's made me take on the challenge of making my own version . My idea may not work but I'm going to try it anyways . Have most of the parts but it's one project at a time
:|


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> In case you haven't seen it, I built an adjustable height work table w/dual routers. It works great, especially since I have cramped working quarters. Router table, assembly table, extension table for my outfeed table/workbench. Lots of possibilities.
> 
> Adjustable Height Worktable/Dual Router Table


I think that I like this better too, it has the advantage that the size isn't limited by the envelope of the scissor lift. Using the mounting pads for the casters as the lower stop for the legs is slick, that's a great idea. I do have a question though - from the photos, the slots in the plywood legs for the dowel bolts don't appear to go all the way to the bottom, does this mean that the top is built around the assembled legs and that they can't be removed without a lot of disassembly?


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

tomp913 said:


> I think that I like this better too, it has the advantage that the size isn't limited by the envelope of the scissor lift. Using the mounting pads for the casters as the lower stop for the legs is slick, that's a great idea. I do have a question though - from the photos, the slots in the plywood legs for the dowel bolts don't appear to go all the way to the bottom, does this mean that the top is built around the assembled legs and that they can't be removed without a lot of disassembly?


Here is a better angle. Undo the knobs and lift the top half off.

It also works as a camera stand! :grin:


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Thanks Mike. Looking at photos 6 and 8 in your article, it sure does look as if the slots don't go all the way through to the bottom.

I'm OK with my router table the way it is, thinking that I would make this a clamping table with track in the top as I just can't bring myself to rout dadoes in my nice maple top - although I just bought the Kreg clamp and will be inletting the aluminum plate in there.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Tom, I think I finally realized I needed to cut the grooves all the way. I just winged it!

I can't bring myself to cut any dadoes in the table. It gets used for all sorts of stuff, including clamping as well as assembly.

I clamp my router fence on the sides. I have a custom made jig for mounting featherboards if needed.
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/48798-router-table-featherboard-jig.html


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Tom, I think I finally realized I needed to cut the grooves all the way. I just winged it!
> 
> I can't bring myself to cut any dadoes in the table. It gets used for all sorts of stuff, including clamping as well as assembly.
> 
> ...


OK, the through slot seems t make more sense. I'm leaning towards your Rev 1 top with the holes and slots. I looked at the Festool MFT replacement tops but they're a little pricey and a home made version would work just as well - and there are a lot of clamps and fixtures out there that fit into the 3/4" holes that slots and T-tracks may not be necessary 19 mm System: Bench Dogs, Panel Clamp, Surface Vise, Bench Anchor, Planing Stop - this is a British supplier but I copied the link because of the variety shown on one page.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

tomp913 said:


> OK, the through slot seems t make more sense. I'm leaning towards your Rev 1 top with the holes and slots. I looked at the Festool MFT replacement tops but they're a little pricey and a home made version would work just as well - and there are a lot of clamps and fixtures out there that fit into the 3/4" holes that slots and T-tracks may not be necessary 19 mm System: Bench Dogs, Panel Clamp, Surface Vise, Bench Anchor, Planing Stop - this is a British supplier but I copied the link because of the variety shown on one page.


My grand daughter came to stay for the weekend. Yesterday, she helped in the shop. She is a ready and willing participant, always ready to help.
http://www.routerforums.com/lobby/66650-totally-random-chat-thread-130.html#post768722

Note that we were using the *mobile workstation* I built in 2013BS (Before Sketchup). It is versatile and works great.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> My grand daughter came to stay for the weekend. Yesterday, she helped in the shop. She is a ready and willing participant, always ready to help.
> http://www.routerforums.com/lobby/66650-totally-random-chat-thread-130.html#post768722
> 
> Note that we were using the *mobile workstation* I built in 2013BS (Before Sketchup). It is versatile and works great.


She's a sweetheart, going to be a big help in a couple of years I'm sure.

That's one sturdy bench you built there, no problems with wobble I'll bet. I see that HF has the scissor jack on sale right now, may go ahead and pick one up while I'm deciding how big/small my top can be. That will probably be based on where I can store it when not in use and still have room to move around.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks. I always have time to get the grandkids involved, even if it is something simple. They won't forget the experience.

I bought the larger one for RV's mainly because it had a 19mm head welded on the jack so a drill or impact wrench or even a ratchet can be used. And the offset handle comes with it.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

tomp913 said:


> She's a sweetheart, going to be a big help in a couple of years I'm sure.
> 
> That's one sturdy bench you built there, no problems with wobble I'll bet. I see that HF has the scissor jack on sale right now, may go ahead and pick one up while I'm deciding how big/small my top can be. That will probably be based on where I can store it when not in use and still have room to move around.


Tom , so your saying your going to build one too . Will definitely be watching that build thread


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Tom this is how I want to approach it . I realize it's far more complicated than it should be but I'm going to attempt it anyways . 
These are not great pics but it gives you an idea 


Im not going to actually use a DC motor but instead have all the drive train assembly in the top part and use a cordless drill threw the top to raise and lower the table 


This isn't a great representation of how it works but it sort of gives you an idea . I already bought 5 sprockets , chain and the 1" threaded rod. Instead of having the working parts in the lower area as shown , I will have them in the top section . So there will be two sections to this table , a lower piece and a top section that slide together like Mikes . May have to use Mikes idea to lock down the corners if it's not stable enough with the screws I bought . Wish I had a place to but acme screws and do it right


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

So much for the insulation budget...
http://www.routerforums.com/lobby/73138-road-trip-lee-valley.html


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> Tom this is how I want to approach it . I realize it's far more complicated than it should be but I'm going to attempt it anyways .
> 
> I'm not going to actually use a DC motor but instead have all the drive train assembly in the top part and use a cordless drill threw the top to raise and lower the table
> 
> This isn't a great representation of how it works but it sort of gives you an idea . I already bought 5 sprockets , chain and the 1" threaded rod. Instead of having the working parts in the lower area as shown , I will have them in the top section . So there will be two sections to this table , a lower piece and a top section that slide together like Mikes . May have to use Mikes idea to lock down the corners if it's not stable enough with the screws I bought . Wish I had a place to but acme screws and do it right


I have a couple of projects that have to come first - my track saw table with lift being on top of the list to replace my RA saw (and my wife has some things in mind too), but I will be sure to take some photos. I knocked out a diagonal cabinet for the corner of the shop and have only about 6 photos of the whole build.

If you're looking for Acme threaded rods, do a quick Google search - here's one that seems to have good prices ACME Threaded Rod Coarse Thread | Right Handed Coarse Thread ACME Threaded Rod | ACME Threaded Rod Sizes | Precision ACME Threaded Rod | Free Shipping but Enco sells it too (spent my allowance there more than once). I'm not sure that you need 1" rod though, look in the book for axial rating of the Acme thread and compare it to the anticipated weight of the table plus workpiece - costs go up with size for all components. You need to figure out some method of taking the backlash out of the system or the corners wont raise and lower evenly.

Looking at your schematic, I'm assuming that the sprockets are fixed to the structure somehow and don't just "float" - you might want to check out this site as they have some ideas that may be useful - 8020 dot net (for some reason I can't post the URL) Warning - you will definitely spend your insulation budget here.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

@tom 
Thanks for the link Tom I will check it out later tonight 

Yes I'm sorry the picture leaves a lot to be desired . Yes there fixed , and I was going to have a tensioner to hold the chain tight , plus the white plastic cutting board stuff for guides and so on . 
I'm concerned that if go with the good acme rod that the next thing you know I'll be installing the electronics for a stepper motor and programming it to automatically restore itself to out field table height and on and on lol.

Want to keep it sort of simple . Was thinking that if I had 4 screws turning in unison that once it was setup and calibrated I could keep it perfectly level at all times as it raises and lowers . Kind of like a planer does .

I'd like about a foot of travel but 8" would probably do it . 
It may be a better project for metal but I was going to try wood first and see how it works


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

One other thing Tom . I am using the bolts that go on the rod to secure sprockets to the rod . Can tack weld if necessary. 
I'm not sure how sprockets attach to acme rod . Never got a good answer .
I wonder if there a good place in Calgary that may have all the parts I require ? 

Btw Mike , sorry for side tracking your thread


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> One other thing Tom . I am using the bolts that go on the rod to secure sprockets to the rod . Can tack weld if necessary.
> I'm not sure how sprockets attach to acme rod . Never got a good answer .
> I wonder if there a good place in Calgary that may have all the parts I require ?
> 
> Btw Mike , sorry for side tracking your thread


Yes, sorry Mike, maybe this should be a separate thread as I can see a lot of discussion in the future.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

tomp913 said:


> Yes, sorry Mike, maybe this should be a separate thread as I can see a lot of discussion in the future.


Mikes pretty easy to get along with . I did push the envelope once with PM's though


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Thanks. I always have time to get the grandkids involved, even if it is something simple. They won't forget the experience.
> 
> I bought the larger one for RV's mainly because it had a 19mm head welded on the jack so a drill or impact wrench or even a ratchet can be used. And the offset handle comes with it.


I was up at HF the other weekend, had a 20% off coupon so added the RV jack to my list. I'm working on the design now - I'm not a big fan of casters, locking or otherwise so am changing your design to use these casters Workbench Caster Kit 4 Pack - Bench Castor Wheels - Amazon.com or something similar so I need to overhang the top past the ends so that the casters don't become a trip hazard. It looks as if using these casters will have the added benefit that the minimum height can be reduced. The design is just some freehand scribbles at the moment, but it's going to be on the same order as the "MFT-style" table I'm making to cut panels with my track saw. As I need somewhere to "store" it while not in use, I'm thinking it will replace the outfeed table on the saw if I can get the max height up enough.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

The sketch looks good. I do have an overhang that goes around all four sides. I use clamps to secure the router fence when I use it.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> The sketch looks good. I do have an overhang that goes around all four sides. I use clamps to secure the router fence when I use it.


The tracksaw table can't have an overhang on the front/back because of the attachment for the bridge to raise/lower the track, and I only plan on using it to cut panels to length anyway. The adjustable table will have an overhang on all four sides - front and back will be only 1-1/2 - 2" for clamping, the ends will have a longer one to accommodate the casters. I'll try to get a rough Sketchup drawing made soon, maybe get some input from you before I start cutting parts as you have some experience with it. I do have one question - you have the bottom stringers in an L-configuration to support the cross-members that the jack sits on, do you think that's necessary as I can't see the load on the bench top being more than a couple hundred pounds (if that)?


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

tomp913 said:


> I do have one question - you have the bottom stringers in an L-configuration to support the cross-members that the jack sits on, do you think that's necessary as I can't see the load on the bench top being more than a couple hundred pounds (if that)?


I see what you are saying. The jack actually sits on 2 2x6's that are screwed to the side pieces. I think that is plenty strong. I guess I added the other pieces for support. It's been a while, and I have slept a lot since then. :frown:

Since I built thing as I went, some things might not be necessary.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Rick, I think you will have to use the DC motor, you can get them off the web for around $39.00, but I don't think a cordless drill will work well for this.
Herb


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> I see what you are saying. The jack actually sits on 2 2x6's that are screwed to the side pieces. I think that is plenty strong. I guess I added the other pieces for support. It's been a while, and I have slept a lot since then. :frown:
> 
> Since I built thing as I went, some things might not be necessary.


Mike,

Well, I sat down to work on the sketch and stuck it out until it was (kind of) finished - no casters and no jack or hardware though. The top is 36" wide x 30" deep which is what I have available space wise. The heights are NOT TO SCALE, I just faked them in there while I was sitting at the computer - I'll work them out later, just wanted to get the basic configuration down. With the 36" width and the 6" overhang for the casters at each end, the dimension over the legs winds up at 24" wide (x 22-1/2" deep) - wondering if that might make it a little "tippy" side-to-side. I'll probably go with it though as I think there's a way to correct by putting extended feet on the bottom of the legs. It looks as if the base of the jack is going to be 7-1/2" off the floor - depending on how the slots and locking knobs work out, I think I'm going to be able to get fairly low, just hope that I can get the height too.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Looks good to me. I took the sketch for a spin! :grin:


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Thanks, I basically just tweaked your design to accommodate the retractable casters. I'm still learning Sketchup, got a lot of practice making that model. I need to dig through the manual - I think that there's a way to make the upper and lower halves as "assemblies" so that I can move them and get a feel for the height adjustment range as I tweak the lengths of the legs. I have the upper half bottoming on top of the stringers on the top of the lower half as the minimum height (corrected the position of the one part - it was a long day) so need to adjust things so the upper legs stay in contact as the top is raised.

It's going to be a while until I get to start this as there's a couple (or more) projects in the way - the tracksaw table is on top of my list but, unfortunately, the cabinet for the downstairs bathroom (and the family room remodel) is on top of my wife's list. But that gives me a chance to think about the design and what I can do to improve before I actually start cutting parts. The tracksaw table sketch is marked Ver2, but it replaces Ver1.15 - a big change when I decided to go with the retractable casters, earlier versions had locking casters and then no casters but a lever and a "dolly" under each end to move it out from the wall. I really can't see the lift table changing much as you have pretty much worked out the basic design, I just changed it a little. Like you, I'm planning on a smooth (laminate) top, no t-tracks bit but may put in some dog holes as I can add clamps in the middle that way without losing the smooth surface.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Looks good to me. I took the sketch for a spin! :grin:


I double posted


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