# Homemade Pin Router



## Mark Sternberg (Jan 16, 2010)

I have been wanting a pin router for some time but was not satisfied with what was out there. Meaning I could not afford it or it's purpose for what I wanted it to do was limited.

So I created this one,
The features are;
*Mechanical control of lowering router with foot control. 
*I can raise the carriage in the back up to 12" off the table and still have the same foot control.
*I have a slide table for rabbits dado's or cutting tenons.
*The head can angle left or right up to 45 degree's for cross cutting at angles or routing into an angled cut.
* It has a 1/4" pin in it that is adjustable for height and has 1/2" and 3/4" bushings for larger bits.
*It has a stop feature for depth and one to hold it for depth.
*It has a moving measurement rule to set and adjust depths.
*The down movement of the router is run on modified drawer guides encased to help prevent sawdust from entering the bearings.
*The foot control is tied to a floating choke cable. This gives the unit the ability to work mechanically and still have adjustments for height. The foot control gives 5" of vertical movement.

I am really pleased with it and am discovering different ways to use it. I am making a jig to be able to cut and rout circles too.

I will let you know how things go with it.


----------



## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

Holy smokes, that is fantastic! You did a great job, I like all the features, especially the adjustable angle, too cool.

Have you thought of building some kind of safety guard for it?


----------



## tdublyou (Jan 8, 2010)

Mark,
A fine job, it looks like you'll have an endless supply of new ways to enjoy it.
Sometimes the ingenuity of the members on this forum just amazes me.


----------



## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Mark Sternberg said:


> I am really pleased with it and am discovering different ways to use it. I am making a jig to be able to cut and rout circles too.


Hi Mark:

You have achieved something rather difficult with the router -- the ability to use it at an angle. Nicely done. With your permission, I'll include it in the pin router section of my notes. I'd love to see some of the things you make with the angled router. Please also note that when you now combine bits cutting at an angle you open up a tremendous range of new mouldings and shapes -- add to that your circle cutting jig and now you have some very interesting options, only duplicated by a pivot frame.

Ron


----------



## gemma.laming (May 1, 2011)

MArk, it looks fantastic! Well done.

Actually the bits I liked best are the twist-handles for the locking bolts! A really nice touch. 

I am interested that you should use drawer slides for your apparatus, do they give sufficient support? I am thinking that they would be slightly loose and would chatter? I have used the carriages from very old electronic printers which have aluminium (?) castings running on ground steel rods and are particularly good if you find (literally in some cases) the right ones. 

I am about to embark on a router lathe with an oscillating facility, posts will follow as it progresses. I like making pretty things, but most of my clients just want a nicer wardrobe. 

As it seems with every one else, do let us see what you can do with it  Gemma xx


----------



## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Way to go, Mark! I, too, would be concerned about the rigidity of the slides you've chosen especially if heavy cuts were made, but nevertheless it is an excellent and ingenious solution you'e arrived at. My own experience of using industrial cast-iron pin routers is that they generally have a much deeper swan neck and so can handle larger pieces, but I concede that it is difficult to see how that could be achieved in timber



bobbotron said:


> Have you thought of building some kind of safety guard for it?


From my own commercial experience I'd say that industrial overhead routers are one of the most difficult machines to guard adequately, fortunately they are normally used in conjunction with a workholding jig and template rather than freehand and it is the design of the jig which allows for same use. Almost all the conventional guards I've used or seen either limit visibility of impede easy working

Phil


----------



## Mark Sternberg (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks everyone! 
To answer a couple questions;
Yes safety is always a concern but like Phil P explained it is hard to put safety devices on this. I do wear a face mask and anything I run through it is either attached to a jig or a sacrifice piece of wood to keep my hands away from danger.

Using Drawer slides was a last resort until I figured out a way to keep them tight. Everything else I tried was to sloppy or so tight it wouldn't move very well.

I included some pictures, I am not sure if you can understand what I did but here goes.
I started with 16" full extension guides. There are 3 tracks on the full extension which created to much play so I removed the smallest inner one and its bearings. 
These 2 tracks are fairly tight but to tighten them a little more and keep them tight I tightly fitted a piece of hardwood into the inner track and fastened them with screws through the back. 
Then when I mount them in the carriage on the machine the outer tracks are pinned between 2 pieces of wood so they can't flex at all. This tightened everything up and there is no play at all.
I am not sure if this makes sense but it works.


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

That's pretty slick, Mark. I hope it works out well for you.


----------



## Rick in Pittsburgh (Jun 23, 2009)

Awesome Job Mark. Thanks for posting this.


----------



## Montclover (Nov 28, 2008)

Super job! I have a Shop Smith Pin Router which I prefer to simply call it an "Overhead Router." I do little if any actual Pin Routing on my unit, I prefer it to simply replace my Table Router for most jobs. I often wonder why these Pint Routers are not more popular.
In any event, you did a super job on this project.


----------



## dharps (Sep 18, 2009)

Mark:
Amazing design work!!!
On what does the head pivot: I.e. what have you used for a center?
Might you sell plans?


----------



## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

I have a Shop Fox and love it. It seems yours will have even more versatility and will be like having several different sets of router bits.

I've made a jig which makes medallions up to thirty inches in diameter, such as you might use as a backing for a ceiling light. It's great for reproducing individual lettering using the pin guide. I haven't installed a fence yet because my table unit handles most of what I need, but there may come a time I need to rout from the top.

Great job!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mark

Very Nice job on the Pin Router setup here's just one more way to make one without all the work 


=======



Mark Sternberg said:


> I have been wanting a pin router for some time but was not satisfied with what was out there. Meaning I could not afford it or it's purpose for what I wanted it to do was limited.
> 
> So I created this one,
> The features are;
> ...


----------



## archae (May 27, 2010)

I too have been looking for a pin router solution.
Are you considering publishing your plans when all the kinks are worked out? 
I could probably figure out the parts and the build sequence from your photos, but detailed plans and instructions would be preferred. And, of course, you deserve some compensation for your ingenuity.


----------



## archae (May 27, 2010)

One way to provide a safety shield is to attach a piece of clear polycarbonate (Lexan) to the router clamp. You may need to redesign the clamp to have a flat rather than curved face to make mounting easier. The thin poly (0.030") should be flexible enough to follow the curve, but I would recommend at least 1/16". Most suppliers only sell full 4'x8' sheets, but here is one source I found that will cut to order at a reasonable price: Interstate Plastics dot com (do an Internet search for more info).


----------



## Mark Sternberg (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks everyone. I have been so busy I really haven't had that much of an opportunity to use it yet. I will eventually come up with some plans but I don't know how soon. In the mean time I can answer any questions you may have if you like.


----------



## Courtney1949 (Dec 25, 2008)

*Great Job with the pin router*

The features on the pin router are great. 

I enjoy seeing was various woodworkers designs. I have been following Matthias Wandel and his home made woodworking machines at woodgears.ca. He comes up with some vary interesting devices with detailed plans including a home made bandsaw. 

Courtney1949 

Devices at woodgears.ca
3-D router pantograph
Multi slot mortising machine
Making dovetail joints with the pantorouter
The Pantorouter
Router lift


----------



## fleetguitars (Sep 19, 2010)

I am the world champion lurker and have never posted, but THAT gizmo, and the ingenuity/skill involved leaves me speechless!
Well.... Almost, hahaha!


----------



## JEBNC1 (Dec 2, 2009)

Wow Mark! That is a great design, and wonderful workmanship. Excellent job Mark, and thanks for posting.

Do you have any additional details you can share? I may be interested in building one some day, if I can get it to the top of my looooong todo list.


----------



## Rick in Pittsburgh (Jun 23, 2009)

Bob, Great idea using the radial arm saw. Is that a home made bracket the router sits on?


----------



## Mark Sternberg (Jan 16, 2010)

I like the idea of using a RA saw too. And previously I have used something like that. 

The only down fall with it is (and this is why I developed this machine). When you are lowering the router onto your workpiece you have to take one hand off to crank the router into your work and out of your work. When pin routing I like to keep both hands on the workpiece to avoid any slip-ups. The foot pedal makes a big difference and you have greater control.

And while you can angle the RA saw you will not be able to plunge in at that angle if you wanted too.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rick

Thanks, yes it's just some big flat washers welded up, little bit of some 1/4" thick scrap stock out of the box and about hour of your time and you have a pin router.

The RAS saw can be put in any angle for the hard to do router jobs or just used it as a pin router.

I have many shots of the RAS saw doing it's thing as a pin router in my uploads.


======



Rick in Pittsburgh said:


> Bob, Great idea using the radial arm saw. Is that a home made bracket the router sits on?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mark

" will not be able to plunge in at that angle if you wanted too "= I do when I have a plunge router mounted in place.

" one hand off " = no need to put my hand on the router, it's locked in place, all done with the controls on the RAS..... 

=======



Mark Sternberg said:


> I like the idea of using a RA saw too. And previously I have used something like that.
> 
> The only down fall with it is (and this is why I developed this machine). When you are lowering the router onto your workpiece you have to take one hand off to crank the router into your work and out of your work. When pin routing I like to keep both hands on the workpiece to avoid any slip-ups. The foot pedal makes a big difference and you have greater control.
> 
> And while you can angle the RA saw you will not be able to plunge in at that angle if you wanted too.


----------



## hdoilcan (Nov 20, 2011)

Amazing


----------



## harry21030 (Mar 20, 2012)

Mark, 
Your design is really great. I used drawer slides like you did when I built my guitar binding router machine, in the same way you did and it works great. As to the comment about the rigidity issue. The comment is correct but also as the person said as long as you don't take to deep a cut, it is will be fine, I say to that that unless the cut can only be made in one deep cut, as with say a dove tail for an acoustic guitar neck, most routing should be done in several as shallow passes to ensure accurate routing. Using this methodology I think design is just fine. I would like to throw out there though, that a two rail linear bearing system say 25 mm or so would solve most of these rigidity problems and if that is not enough then machined ways. Linear bearings can be had off ebay at a reasonable cost, but machined ways would drive the cost to the point you best buy a commercially built one. I now I am new to this forum, just some thoughts hope they help. Mark in no way am I bad mouthing your design, it is excellent, I wish I had the bad boy in my shop.


----------



## lozze (Apr 2, 2012)

Very very cool!
Well done!


----------



## Trickshot (Apr 13, 2012)

Ya Now this is what I want to see real craftmanship like great got me on the edge of the chair !!


----------



## grandpagrizzly (Sep 13, 2011)

I really want one.... Hope you get some plans done for us mentally challenged woodworkers. Just one GREAT project. Thanks.
GG


----------



## Jaccok (Nov 14, 2011)

*Pin router*

Looks great It looks like a Burgmaster multi spindel drill press.


----------



## grandpagrizzly (Sep 13, 2011)

Jaccok, Another great use. Adapt for an electric drill and have a great time drilling angled holes. Oh, the possibilities are endless.
GG


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

that is an awesome piece of work! now i want to build one 

you may have answered this already, but i'm coming in late ...

what is the cable up the right side for?

*edit* i guess that is for the foot pedal, so never mind. great build!


----------



## altoonapillarrock (Apr 23, 2009)

What is the purpose of a pin router? What task can you do with this you can't do with a router and appropriate jig?
Thanks, Peter


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Many things one of them is angles that can be hard to setup on a normal router table, i.e 30 deg. or a 70 deg.angle..not to say anything about template work,quick and easy with a pin router. 


===



altoonapillarrock said:


> What is the purpose of a pin router? What task can you do with this you can't do with a router and appropriate jig?
> Thanks, Peter


----------



## Podmonger (May 12, 2011)

I really liked the pin router. It made me scratch my head and have a go in my own workshop here in the UK. I used the table of my drill press to mount a small Bosch router using its 8mm diameter fence mounting bars. You could also use a metal plate or a plywood extension bolted to the table and overhanging to allow the router to sit on it. Once that's done, you can mount a board and simple fence on the lower table/base of the drill press. Now you can tilt the router and raise or lower it over the work. Here are two photographs, one with a support and one without. They should explain themselves. The router sits very securely without a support but can flex a little. The support kills vibration and flexing. If you have an disused or borken drill press you could remove the drill head from the post and make a permanent job of it.


----------



## altoonapillarrock (Apr 23, 2009)

Thanks, it certainly looks like a well designed machine.


----------



## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Podmonger said:


> I really liked the pin router. It made me scratch my head and have a go in my own workshop here in the UK. I used the table of my drill press to mount a small Bosch router using its 8mm diameter fence mounting bars. You could also use a metal plate or a plywood extension bolted to the table and overhanging to allow the router to sit on it. Once that's done, you can mount a board and simple fence on the lower table/base of the drill press. Now you can tilt the router and raise or lower it over the work. Here are two photographs, one with a support and one without. They should explain themselves. The router sits very securely without a support but can flex a little. The support kills vibration and flexing. If you have an disused or borken drill press you could remove the drill head from the post and make a permanent job of it.


This is a great idea! I can do this!


----------



## simon-41 (Aug 16, 2009)

very slick


----------



## simon-41 (Aug 16, 2009)

Good Skills - I like the use of the bosch router - I may try something similar myself


----------



## Podmonger (May 12, 2011)

I don't want to hog the thread but here is another (smaller) picture of how I've mounted a heavier router using aluminium shelf brackets instead of silver steel fence bars. It is a 3 point mounting. The back bracket has 2 set screws holding its flange to the top of the bosses that normally hold the locking thumb screws for the fence bar. The front bracket just holds on the single accessible boss that would normally lock the other bar. The big nut in the middle holds a beech block down on the flanges and the block to the rear just keeps the brackets aligned and prevents them spreading. The assembly is amazingly rigid and lightweight. It allows the table to be tilted and the whole thing can be turned through 90 degrees to mount the router either side of the table instead of at the front. A simple wooden table is clamped to the bench apron and it can be raised or lowered. Just undoing the centre nut demounts the whole router in one go.

One safety note! The router hangs on the three set screws so keep an eye on them, make sure they stay tight but not so tight that they strip their threads. That said, I find the whole thing very solid under power.


----------



## Podmonger (May 12, 2011)

*Pin router Depth Control*










My *final* go at this! I don't know why I didn't see it earlier but if the centre bolt is extended up into the chuck, using a locking nut to clamp the base to the table, the drill press depth adjustment can be used to raise and lower the table complete with the router. The final picture shows an easy way to do this. The Bosch router can be taken off its plunge base and mounted the same way. I am surprised at how nicely it all works. Thanks for your patience with my muddling along!


----------



## Canoe3 (May 11, 2012)

I again want to thank all who took the time to welcome me or give me advise. So far I have not seen anything that really matches what I have in my mind so I will keep everyone posted once I have something to show. However my life has just become a bit more demanding with some health issues of a family member so my little project will need to take a back seat for awhile. Best wishes all and remember to have fun with you hobby!


----------



## woodie26 (May 31, 2009)

Did you ever come up with some plans?
Thanks


----------



## Dpean (Oct 16, 2012)

WOW, that is good.


----------



## GusGustin (Sep 9, 2018)

Wow .. that had to have taken some thinking .. and looks like you knew exactly what you needed.
Thanks for posting it.


----------



## GusGustin (Sep 9, 2018)

Bob, that looks pretty good! Is it on a radial arm saw?
What sort of saw is that mounted to. I don't have a Radial Arm Saw, but, you can always get one really
cheap to turn into an over arm router. 
I like the idea of this one for sure.
Anything you can tell me about it .. I'd sure appreciate.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Gus; Bob passed away a few years ago. That thread was from 2012.
If Bob answers...


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I think we had a post or two last year on pin routing and an attachment that lets you do pin routing. It produces some interesting results. Here's a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=5&v=SNAk3RQZr3E


----------

