# Hitachi Template Guide Installation



## mtgilbert (Jul 28, 2009)

Hello-

I used a router for the first time this week, a Hitachi KM12VC. A little scary at first, I admit, but now I see I was worried for nothing. I intend to use it for two purposes, at least in the near future: with a template guide and straight bit to create a form in which to cure recurve bows (archery), and with a drum sanding kit for the same project.

As for the template guide, Hitachi conveniently provides them with my router kit. The trouble is, I can't figure out how to install them (and the manual is worthless in this regard). Just when I think I may have it, I turn the router on and the locking nut for the template guide immediately comes loose. Does anyone know where I can go for help?

Thanks.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Does the collet open up with a bit installed? Are you using 12mm bits or 1/2" bits? Does the template guide not attach to the underside of the router base plate with 2 screws?


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## mtgilbert (Jul 28, 2009)

Mike Wingate said:


> Does the collet open up with a bit installed? Are you using 12mm bits or 1/2" bits? Does the template guide not attach to the underside of the router base plate with 2 screws?


Thanks for the quick reply, Mike.

I'm using a bit with a 1/4" shank, and a 1/2" diameter straight blade. The template guide has an outer diameter of 1/2" and an inner diameter of 13/32". The bit seems secure, though it's tricky to tighten it, and I'm really not sure if it's tight enough, or if it extends far enough into the collet. I'm not sure if hand tightening the guide is enough, and if not, what kind of tool(s) to use.

Here is the order of attachments (I hope it makes sense to you): 1/4" collet, bit shank, template guide locking nut, template guide adapter (which is attached to the router base with two screws), template guide, bit blade.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

mtgilbert said:


> Thanks for the quick reply, Mike.
> 
> I'm using a bit with a 1/4" shank, and a 1/2" diameter straight blade. The template guide has an outer diameter of 1/2" and an inner diameter of 13/32". The bit seems secure, though it's tricky to tighten it, and I'm really not sure if it's tight enough, or if it extends far enough into the collet. I'm not sure if hand tightening the guide is enough, and if not, what kind of tool(s) to use.
> 
> Here is the order of attachments (I hope it makes sense to you): 1/4" collet, bit shank, template guide locking nut, template guide adapter (which is attached to the router base with two screws), template guide, bit blade.


As far as I'm aware Matt, the Hitachi is similar to this Makita, do these shots help.


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## mtgilbert (Jul 28, 2009)

harrysin said:


> As far as I'm aware Matt, the Hitachi is similar to this Makita, do these shots help.


Thanks, harrysin. It does look similar. I guess I'm looking for tricks and tips, since getting the parts installed is a bit too much like brain surgery. It seems to be haphazardly arranged, but maybe it just had to be that way since solid objects can't pass through one another.... There are two things I would very much like to do: not injure myself, and, more importantly, not damage my new router.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

mtgilbert said:


> Hello-
> 
> I used a router for the first time this week, a Hitachi KM12VC. A little scary at first, I admit, but now I see I was worried for nothing. I intend to use it for two purposes, at least in the near future: with a template guide and straight bit to create a form in which to cure recurve bows (archery), and with a drum sanding kit for the same project.
> 
> ...


Hi Matt, Welcome to the forums.
I happen to have the same kit.
Pic of fixed and plunge base with adapter ring (not sure of correct nomenclature) installed on plunge base and two pics of guide installed.

I am a little antsy about how tight they are too. I have been using a small channellock pliers to make sure they are tight. I also picked up some O-rings, tip from someone on here, to use as lockwashers. Haven't tried this method yet but it sounds like a good idea.

Harry, I think that o-ring idea showed up in your "bloody brass ...." discussion but am just senile enough I cannot remember who to attribute it to.

Cheers all.


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## mtgilbert (Jul 28, 2009)

jschaben said:


> Hi Matt, Welcome to the forums.
> I happen to have the same kit.
> Pic of fixed and plunge base with adapter ring (not sure of correct nomenclature) installed on plunge base and two pics of guide installed.
> 
> ...


Thanks, John, and thanks for the welcome as well. One thing I just figured out is that only about half of the bit's shank is in the collet when the template guide is installed. Is that enough? I can't just slip the template guide over the bit because the bit and template guide are the same size. It seems odd that the locking nut come loose so easily, especially because there are no straight edges on either the nut or the guide to clamp a wrench on. Perhaps the O-ring is the way to go, but where do I find one just that size? Is the lock nut coming loose because of vibrations, or is it actually contacting the collet? Should I be using the plunge base or the fixed, or doesn't it matter? Sorry to have so many questions, but surely someone else has encountered the same problem.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

mtgilbert said:


> Thanks, John, and thanks for the welcome as well. One thing I just figured out is that only about half of the bit's shank is in the collet when the template guide is installed. Is that enough? I can't just slip the template guide over the bit because the bit and template guide are the same size. It seems odd that the locking nut come loose so easily, especially because there are no straight edges on either the nut or the guide to clamp a wrench on. Perhaps the O-ring is the way to go, but where do I find one just that size? Is the lock nut coming loose because of vibrations, or is it actually contacting the collet? Should I be using the plunge base or the fixed, or doesn't it matter? Sorry to have so many questions, but surely someone else has encountered the same problem.


Ahh.. I just reread your original post. You are using a 1/2 inch bit with a 1/2 inch template guide. Since the ID of the guide is smaller than the bit, the bit is likely contacting the guide and unscrewing it. You probably didn't hear much noise because the guide is aluminum. That would also explain not having much shank in the collett also. You will either need to use a larger guide or smaller bit. Is your template set up for a 1/2" guide? Did you make the template? 
If your template is the same size as your project, you can dispense with the guide bushing and just use a flush trim or pattern bit.
Oh, as far as the o-rings go I found them in the plumbing department at Home Depot. They fit a little tight so I may have to stop by the local auto parts place for a better fit.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings Matt and welcome to the router forum. Just wondering if your base is centered on the collet?


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## mtgilbert (Jul 28, 2009)

jschaben said:


> Ahh.. I just reread your original post. You are using a 1/2 inch bit with a 1/2 inch template guide. Since the ID of the guide is smaller than the bit, the bit is likely contacting the guide and unscrewing it. You probably didn't hear much noise because the guide is aluminum. That would also explain not having much shank in the collett also. You will either need to use a larger guide or smaller bit. Is your template set up for a 1/2" guide? Did you make the template?
> If your template is the same size as your project, you can dispense with the guide bushing and just use a flush trim or pattern bit.
> Oh, as far as the o-rings go I found them in the plumbing department at Home Depot. They fit a little tight so I may have to stop by the local auto parts place for a better fit.


The bit is indeed 1/2", but the shank is 1/4" (=8/32") and so fits through the template guide with room to spare (the ID of the guide is 13/32"). I think the blade itself is clear of the template guide, but I don't want to leave too much space because that pulls the bit further out of the collet. Where there appears to be very little room to spare is between the lock ring and the outer part of the collet, but again, leaving more room there pulls the bit further out of the collet. 

My template is flush with my project because it IS my project! (I have four pieces of 1/2" plywood laminated together, and need all to be flush with one another in the outline of a recurve bow. I have plans from Bingham Projects but am modifying them per an article at American Woodworker: [oops, I can't post the link until I have 10 posts....] - see step 4 and photo 2 (except that I had already glued all 4 pieces together)). I tried the flush trim bit but had trouble because of my inexperience guiding the router (it was mostly flush, but had little serrations where the router base plate wasn't flush to the top of the piece) . I just got a router table which may solve that problem.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the RouterForums Matt.


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## mtgilbert (Jul 28, 2009)

Dr.Zook said:


> Welcome to the RouterForums Matt.


Thanks, Doc.


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## mtgilbert (Jul 28, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> Greetings Matt and welcome to the router forum. Just wondering if your base is centered on the collet?


Thanks for the welcome, Jerry, and you ask an excellent question! Yes, I used the included centering gauge to make sure the template guide adapter is centered. Maybe I didn't do a good enough job of this.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Matt,

I think I follow you. You are trying to make a template of a recurve bow?
What are you using for a pattern to make the template from, just the plans?
If so, what are you following with the guide bushing?

I'm afraid your approaching dangerous territory with 1/2 or less shank in the collett. I haven't been on the forum very long so I don't know how to do this yet, but I think we would get more exposure if we could move this thread to "General Routing" not everyone checks through the Introductions.

A router table will definitely help keeping the piece square. 
I have made patterns in the past and I generally make a tempory one from masonite or 1/4 ply with a jigsaw, bandsaw or whatever tools will do the job.
They are a little rough on the edges but using a flush trim bit the bearing rides over the rough spots and the result comes out pretty clean.
On a table anyway, you could actually make your template from a real bow. Might be a little tricky as you would basically need to freehand it using the starter pin and it can be real easy to get on the wrong side of the bit but it is doable. I would recommend doing this on some 1/4" masonite or MDF and not try it on an inch thick hunk of plywood.

I have to get to work now :bad: but will see about moving this thread or you may contact one of the administrators to find out how to do it.

Will chat with you later.


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## mtgilbert (Jul 28, 2009)

jschaben said:


> Hi Matt,
> 
> I think I follow you. You are trying to make a template of a recurve bow?
> What are you using for a pattern to make the template from, just the plans?
> ...


John, I think I have my solution. I looked closely at my collet and saw telltale signs of wear: the inside of the template guide was rubbing against the collet, and the guide and lock nut were coming loose. I moved the collet and guide a little farther apart (maybe 1/16"?) and the template guide lock ring stayed secure. There was wear on both the top of the collet (looking down when the router is upside down for bit installation) and the sides; I think the wear on the sides happened before I properly centered the template adapter (hat tip to Jerry for asking about that).

The problem I'm left with is the fact that only about half the shank is actually in the collet. Your point is well taken, John, that I'm entering "dangerous territory" with this combination of bit and guide. I guess the blade is meant to extend down into the guide, not stick out above it (again looking at the router while it's upside down).

To answer your questions, I traced the "laminating press" pattern (from paper provide by Bingham) on 2" of plywood (four 1/2" sheets glued and screwed together) and then cut it with a jigsaw. I meant to use a band saw, but didn't have one (I do now) and the expert woodworker I asked to help me wasn't sure he could do it (2" is pretty thick and the other dimensions are something like 2' by 5', so the thing weighs a ton!). What I should have done was suggested in the American Woodworker article, namely to make a template in masonite, etc., rough cut the plywood sheets *before* laminating them together, then use the template and router with flush trim bit to do two sheets at a time. I'd link to the article but still haven't met my 10 post minimum!


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Matt, at least sounds like ya making progress and not just activity. :dance3:Still not to late to go back and make your masonite/mdf pattern and then trim this piece out with a flush cut. 
If its that large, I have no doubt it is heavy. Sounds like a lot to try to manuever around a router table. 
Cheers, and keep us posted.


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## mtgilbert (Jul 28, 2009)

jschaben said:


> Hi Matt, at least sounds like ya making progress and not just activity. :dance3:Still not to late to go back and make your masonite/mdf pattern and then trim this piece out with a flush cut.
> If its that large, I have no doubt it is heavy. Sounds like a lot to try to manuever around a router table.
> Cheers, and keep us posted.


What I'm going to do is make a template from some marine plywood left over from the kayaks I built in the summers of 2007 and 2008 (the kit came from Pygmy Boats). It's 3/16", which I think will be OK, yes? I shifted the pattern for the laminating press down slightly to correct for some errors in the jigsaw work and my poor router movement, and will rout out the rest. I'm getting more consistent with handling of the router - practice does make perfect. Thanks for all your help, John and others.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Good Job Matt. I first got mine I was a bit apprehensive about turning it on because of my experiences with my Dads old Craftsman router. But, once I had it on and running, it was like an old friend. 
Learning curve on it seems pretty quick. 
Chat with you later.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Matt,

You'll have much better results if you use a bearing-guided bit instead of a bushing to guide the bit. It will give you a good grip on the bit. 

I've attached a picture and here's the link to one source.

Pattern Flush Trim Router Bit - Rockler Woodworking Tools

I've never seen a 2" long cutter on a 1/4" shank router bit before. It's farther than I'd go. Perhaps someone more experienced than I here can tell you where to get a longer one and that it's OK to do it, but not I. I'll be using a bit with a 2" long cutter this week on a router table I have "under construction", but it's a 1/2" shank.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Matt, If I'm reading this thread correctly, I'm surprised you have not yet had a major catastrophe. When using template guides they should be large enough for the bit to pass through plus clearance for sawdust. You should be using an offset(smaller than the workpiece)template for this operation. Also, if you are using a 1/4" shank, 1/2" cutting diameter bit with a 1/2" OD guide, you probably don't have enough shank in the collet. Sounds like your pattern is the same size as the finished piece you want. If this is the case you should use a bearing guided template or pattern bit as Jim suggested.


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## mtgilbert (Jul 28, 2009)

RustyW said:


> Matt, If I'm reading this thread correctly, I'm surprised you have not yet had a major catastrophe. When using template guides they should be large enough for the bit to pass through plus clearance for sawdust. You should be using an offset(smaller than the workpiece)template for this operation. Also, if you are using a 1/4" shank, 1/2" cutting diameter bit with a 1/2" OD guide, you probably don't have enough shank in the collet. Sounds like your pattern is the same size as the finished piece you want. If this is the case you should use a bearing guided template or pattern bit as Jim suggested.


Thanks for your replies, Jim and Rusty, and thanks for the tips about bit and template combinations. Right now, the form for the bow is right in some places and needs to have a little material (about 1/8") removed in others. What I'm thinking about doing is using a jigsaw at a slight angle to remove the extra such that one of the four pieces of plywood is close to correct and the other three below it still have material to remove. I would then use my router with a 1 1/2" long flush trim bit (and 1/2" collet). By routing from one side, and then flipping the form over and routing from the other side, I should end up with square edges. Does this sound reasonable?

On another note, is there a standard way to refer to a bit that contains all the dimensions? For example, the flush trim bit I mention above has a 1/2" diameter shank, a blade which is 1 1/2" long and has a 1/2" diameter.

I'm pretty close to my 10 posts, so I'll post some photos of my project.


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