# Darra James is in the house !



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Today I picked up a Darra James Model 95, 12" table saw...for FREE...

If this is posted in the wrong place, please feel free to move it as I intend to continue updating it's restoration.

Thanks to all your advice to many posts regarding buying "old arn" I checked it over and have the following observations:

Both tilt and raise mechanisms are smooth and tight throughout the range...
No play on the arbor throughout the range...
Blade spins smooth with perfect balance and no runout...
All bearings and bushings are good and tight...
Top has only surface rust, and little of it...
All trunnions and innards mating surfaces are completely free of rust and no side to side play...
Motor spins freely, no high spots, no noises...
Tag says 2.25 or 2.45 hp (not clear til I clean it)
115/230 motor but not sure how wired as wires were cut...only two wires are connected in switch box, input wiring was replaced and looks like 14/2 Romex...
Recent sawdust is in the innards...
Cast aluminum wings...two on one side, one on the other...
Cast iron/steel insert...
Left tilt blade...
3/8 or 7/16 fence rail the full length with geared movement mechanism...no quick release unfortunately...plenty of micro adjustment...
No riving knife or blade guard...( my only dislike )
Cabinet is in great shape...no rust inside or out...
Did I mention FREE...?

I'm excited, needless to say but will not get to it for a while...and catch this, the serial number is my birthdate...karma, fate, or just plain coinkydink...?

Thanks for putting up with my excitement...

Nick


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Excellent find Nick. You didn't see a wiring diagram in the connection box? Either voltage only requires 2 wires and a ground. You might be able to find a video on you tube or a blog somewhere on how to test the motor leads to figure it out.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Marcia ,Marcia ,Marcia !
J/k 

Great find Nick , looks like Christmas came early. Mine came with a riving knife and I doubt I could even find it now lol


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Excellent find Nick. You didn't see a wiring diagram in the connection box? Either voltage only requires 2 wires and a ground. You might be able to find a video on you tube or a blog somewhere on how to test the motor leads to figure it out.


No ground was connected...only black n white coming in from romex and red n black going to motor...the wires going to motor are obviously replacement and no box on motor...wires are taped together near motor...

I didn't look that carefully in the connection box but will check...thanks for the tip on researching...

Nick


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Thanks, Rick...LOL...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Nickp said:


> Thanks, Rick...LOL...


Lately when I say " Marcia Marcia Marcia " the younger generation has no clue as to what I'm saying . I think the members here are old enough to know though lol


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

RainMan1 said:


> Lately when I say " Marcia Marcia Marcia " the younger generation has no clue as to what I'm saying . I think the members here are old enough to know though lol


So you won't mind if I call you Jan...? ROFLMAO...


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Nick, just keep in mind that the reason the wires were cut were so that it could not be used...

I do that for any appliances that go out on the curb.

There could be a reason it was free.......


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Nickp said:


> So you won't mind if I call you Jan...? ROFLMAO...


Omg now that's funny! I'm ok with that


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Nick, just keep in mind that the reason the wires were cut were so that it could not be used...
> 
> I do that for any appliances that go out on the curb.
> 
> There could be a reason it was free.......


Thank you, James...good point. I was told they were cut when it was moved and that it had been hard wired to circuit...I will check it out so thank you for the heads up.

It's my intent to check the motor before doing anything else...the county metal scrap yard is only a mile away...


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

Congrats Nick. Great find, and for free yet. What size is the arbor on that 12"?


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Bricknhank said:


> Congrats Nick. Great find, and for free yet. What size is the arbor on that 12"?


Haven't put a caliper on it but looks to be 3/4 based on research on vintage sites. Definitely not 5/8 or 1" ...

Folks have done couple of different things...cut spindle to 5/8 or have blades bushed to 3/4... Others have apparently found rare sources of 3/4" blades and dados...


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## david_de (Jun 3, 2013)

Great find Nick. Looking forward to the restoration and end result reports. Thanks for sharing your good fortune with us.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Nickp said:


> No ground was connected...only black n white coming in from romex and red n black going to motor...the wires going to motor are obviously replacement and no box on motor...wires are taped together near motor...
> 
> I didn't look that carefully in the connection box but will check...thanks for the tip on researching...
> 
> Nick


All the motors that had dual voltage that I can remember had more than 2 wires. If you have an ohmmeter try testing each motor lead to the cabinet or motor housing and see if you get identical readings. If you do there is still a chance that it could be either one but if one shows no circuit or close to it (probably the red lead) and the other lead shows a circuit or low ohms then it is probably 110 volts. I'm knowledgeable but not an expert. Someone like Duane Meadows who did repair for a living would be a better person to ask.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

UPDATE...

Right now I'm working on identifying the motor...no model number or mfg anywhere on the motor. Four white and two black, unmarked...but wired correctly for 220.

Question...if I rewire it for 110, do I lose hp or increase current draw...? It is a 2hp motor...about 80 lbs...Nameplate says AMPS 26/13...assume high/low voltage...

Assuming it works well, I will leave it high voltage...

Nick


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Nick--if i've come to understand correctly, the 26 means you'd be drawing 26 amps at 110 volts, or 13 amps at 220 volts. Others will have to help you to know if a 30 amp 110 circuit would be sufficient for running, i'm guessing that would put you right on the edge. If it were me, i'd probably keep the motor at 220 on a 20 amp circuit. 

earl


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Thanks, Earl...Gonna run separate 220 for the saw. For now wanting to identify the motor for the sake of documenting the restoration.

I think I have the wiring figured out...three windings, two in series for running (220) and two in parallel for starting 110 (one of them would be in series with capacitor)...this would explain the 6 wires and how I found them jumpered. I'm gonna slap the ohmmeter on it later to verify...

Already having too much fun doing the research on this "old arn"...I say that thinking of how it might sound with voice from the "Ram Tough" commercial... 

Yeah, I know...I'm losing it...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

UPDATE...

Surface rust cleaning up easy...PB Blaster and 220 wet paper. Cast iron is spotless except a couple of dings (like ball peen hammer got it). Definitely not worth a trip to machine shop. Top is dead-on flat in all directions...including the cast aluminum wings (DJ ad calls it "grey metal")...they are definitely heavy. Fence rail is off and cleaned up likewise...fence is geared for micro-adjust with pull-knob for disengaging for quick slide. Track to blade is very square with only .004 difference from one edge of blade to the other when fully raised. Cast iron insert likewise cleaned up nicely. So far I haven't had to do any heavy sanding. Sides of top and wings are painted so will sand that down to metal (or strip it). I'm likely to replace the flat-head machine tapered screws with Phillips if I can sink them into the counterbore and the taper matches... Base is cast and has dimpled paint rust towards bottom...will sand the heck out of that and then prime and paint. Will go back to other thread for info on cleaning surface rust from carbide 12 " blades. Blades are 1" bore with bushing to 3/4. Bushings are removable and have contacted Freud for dado bored to 1". They said they bore them when ordered through any retailer. Haven't made up my mind yet on cutting arbor to 5/8".

This weekend will get some help taking the top and innards etc off (the whole shebang comes off the pedestal in one fell swoop)...4 bolts.

And, yes...pictures coming as soon as I download off phone and camera and sort them out.

I'm feeling lucky...except ribs still hurt 

I'm really grateful to you all for letting me post my progress...


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## Rogerdodge (Apr 24, 2014)

This is a most interesting post , Nick . It is us who are grateful to you for posting it , not the other way round .....


Rog


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Here's a pic of the motor...if anybody recognizes it, much appreciated...thanks...

Nameplate info follows:
SF 1.20
No. 6683JE04715
NEMA 204
Type K8 (or KB)
TRise 40*CCONT
Phase 1
HP 2
Amps 26/13
RPM 3450
Frame 12710


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