# Chip collector find



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

For a small shop with a light duty dust collection unit, having a chip collector can really help. I found a 20 gallon unit on Amazon with a metal ring to lock the lid in place (pretty much a must). Eagle 1654 Yellow Blow-Molded HDPE Salvage Drum with Metal Ring Lever-Lock Lid, 20 gallon Capacity, 21" Height, 21" Diameter. I think I'd add a metal plate on top to reinforce the mounting of the input and output pipes.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-1654-B...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=4BH06F57YGFTPZEBC2S4

I have 30 gallon fiber drums, which might be overkill for a smaller DC system.


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

I use a 30 gal (abt) plastic drum with the lid cut out and a lid made of 2 layers of 3/4" plywood then vent outside, works great. I like the drum you are using, I probably would have used something like that if I could have found something like that around here, but since I could't I used what I could find.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

@Desertrat Tom

I bought this one to mate with my DC (I have the Rockler separator hooked up to the shop vac) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003JFL6X8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, but looks like the one you found would be easier to work with, plus take up less space and so be easier to combine with the DC. The problem with this one is the stiffening ribs in the top, they interfere with installing the fittings. My current solution is to make a disc that fits in the top recess and then drill holes in the top and disc, with a larger hole in the top to clear the flange on the fitting. I've been struggling with a way to seal the disc to the top, basically nothing sticks to it so thinking that the way to go is to buy a roll of the sticky-back weatherstripping, stick it to the u/s of the disc and bolt the disc to the top. I made the disc out of a scrap of underlayment plywood, but feel that may be too thin and that I need to get something a little thicker. Or, I could use this for something else - the lid is nicely gasketed to the body so I could store my packing quilts in there, out of the way in the shed - and buy one like you suggested.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@tomp913 I tried for some time to cobble something together with trash barrels, and gave it up. I ordered a couple of 30 gallon fiber drums from ULine, which are still in use, and they had flat, metal tops and locking rings. That made the Rockler fixtures easy to install. Only thing I didn't do was cut an opening with a glass plug so I could check sawdust level without dismandling the thing. 

Only thing I don't like about the fiber drum setup is emptying it. Sawdust flies everywhere if I dump it into a trash barrel. So I have to stretch a big trash bag over it and slowly invert the drum while holding the bag tight around it. There's a lot less mess that way.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Tom; won't the trash bag fit_ into_ the drum? All janitorial supply houses (not to mention COSTCO) sell drum liners, as well as the contractor's bags.
Ultrasac 55 Gal. Drum Liner Trash Bags (50 Count)-HMD 792695 - The Home Depot

Canadian...
https://www.amazon.ca/Kirkland-Closure-One-at-Dispensing-55-Gallon/dp/B004YPMXGG


2mil would be the minimum desirable thickness I would think? 1.4mil sounds a little skimpy?

These Contractor bags are a little smaller but they come in at 3mil...
https://www.amazon.ca/HK42WC020B-42...02859&sr=8-3&keywords=contractor+garbage+bags


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

@DaninVan

Seems to me that there's a problem with the liner bag getting sucked into the collector, read about having to deal with that. Sound familiar?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*That Sucks!*



tomp913 said:


> @DaninVan
> 
> Seems to me that there's a problem with the liner bag getting sucked into the collector, read about having to deal with that. Sound familiar?


Makes sense; I was kind of wondering about that. Woudn't be a problem on the outflow of the DC but on the chip tank, mmmm...

By the way, there was a recent discussion on DC and hose fittings. A big issue is knowing ahead what'll fit (or not).
These guys give accurate sizing for all their fittings.
Dust Collection
Click on the item you're interested in and a new window opens up with all the dimensioning.
It's a Canadian company, but maybe they have a US branch?


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## furboo (Oct 12, 2015)

Tom, I've also been thinking about a chip separator for my new HF DC. I also have a 30 gallon fiber drum that I used with my old DC system.

Here's the options I'm considering:

1) Build a Thien baffle for the 30 gallon drum, or a garbage can. I'd probably cut a new lid from ply. I think with the baffle, the flow loss wouldn't be too bad. Here's a fairly simple design:






This one needs a simpler way to empty the garbage can. I think my 30 gal drum is too high for this, without making new supports for the HF bag assembly.

2) Get a Super Dust Deputy and add it to a bucket like you found. Here's an interesting spin on this, but no portability:






There's a lot of options and youtube videos out there. I'm leaning towards something like option 1.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

You could use a liner. Someone posted their solution to the suction problem, making a "cage" of 2 by 4 opening wire fence that sits inside the liner. The wire is close to 1/8th thick so it will resist the suction, but open enough so it's easy to remove from a liner with lots of sawdust inside. 

This is not a problem with the HF type unit since it is a form of cyclone, but without a cone. If you look at the pictures, you see that the blower sucks in sawdust and spins it around a flat cyclone structure, so the sawdust falls out while mostly air goes out the filter, which takes out most of the ultra fine dust. The overhead filter (I bought the WEN on Amazon), gets nearly all of the rest if you run it an hour or two after you finish. 

The real villain on dust production is the miter saw! My solution has helped greatly. I built a U shaped hanger of 1 inch rod and hung a clear shower curtain from it that surrounds the back of the saw and the table it sits on. The curtain is gathered at the bottom into a box, but I will soon re-do that so it gathers into a 6 inch to 4 inch adapter with a hose running to a fixture to which the DC system easily attaches. See photo. (sorry its rotated, have no idea how to correct that.)

I just received an over arm dust hood for the table saw. The Laguna Fusion saw is great at pulling sawdust down, especially with the new DC unit. But it still spits out some from the top of the blade. Raising the blade so most of the gullet is exposed has helped, as has switching to full kerf blades (for the most part). I haven't set the new unit up yet, but I will appreciate not having my shirts covered in sawdust every time I make a cut. I have to order a few items to make the overarm unit work and then work out how to attach it to the saw. I'll probably post something about it. 

The bottom line for me is that I am no longer coughing up sawdust. And as I ongoingly clean out the corners of my shop, I notice far less sawdust being redeposited now. But I still wear at least a surgical style mask or a powered respirator when I'm working in there. Overkill? Nope, not to me, maybe it is really unde-kill, since I'm the one who wants to stick around another decade or two.

I have battled sawdust for a long time, and up to now, the sawdust has been winning.


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

You've put a lot of useful information in this thread, Tom. I didn't buy the 2 hp dust collector at HF because with my old wiring, I thought I might have too much current usage by using it alongside my machines. i bought the smaller unit while it was on sale. So I'll have some rigging to do.

Thanks for the link for the salvage drum. Although right now I'm not looking at chip collection, there is another project I have in mind that the salvage drum would be perfect for. And this is much less expensive than what I had found thus far. I'm not going to say much about the new project, because it may well turn out to be a stupid idea (my main talent). But I'm wondering if anyone has seen a drain valve that can be installed on a curved barrel wall like on this salvage drum. I might also be able to go through the bottom if your barrel has a flat bottom surface instead of the ribbing that the lid has. Thanks for all the info.


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

Whoops. I just realized that I was remembering the wrong photo when I mentioned the ribbed top. Is the bottom of your barrel flat inside and out?


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

chessnut2 said:


> Whoops. I just realized that I was remembering the wrong photo when I mentioned the ribbed top. Is the bottom of your barrel flat inside and out?


If you're asking about the larger barrel with the ribbed top, I don't think it has ridges like the top but it's not flat - I'll get back to you on that.

As far as a drain, look at something like this

https://www.amazon.com/RainPro-Barrel-Quarter-Bulkhead-Fitting/dp/B00NX697C0

I did a Google search for "drain valve for rain barrel" and came up with a bunch of hits, pick the one that you like.


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## tmyers (Jan 11, 2017)

This is on my list to do, but near the bottom. My space is so limited, I currently just hook the shop vac up to the tool I am using. Of course this means I am unhooking and re-hooking the darn thing up all the time. thought about a intermediate cyclone collector and 5 gallon bucket to connect the shopvac to but time will tell. I am thinking the attic space above the bottom of the trusses would be a good place for the fan if I ever did buy one of the HF units. I will certainly need to get creative.


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## johnnie_dr (Jan 8, 2016)

Hi DR Tom,

I have that drum, from Amazon, and it works great...nice tight seal and solid construction. As you can see from the attached image...I created a thein baffle, along this my HF DC. I found the top of the drum thick enough to support adding the inlet and outlet feed tubes. The baffle structure, which I made out of MDF is held in place, under the lid, with a few threaded rods and nuts.

Hope this helps...

John
RioDesign ? Creative WoodWorks | wait ?what?wood


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## furboo (Oct 12, 2015)

johnnie_dr said:


> I have that drum, from Amazon, and it works great...


I like your setup, John. How easy is it to empty the drum?


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## johnnie_dr (Jan 8, 2016)

Hey FurBoo,

Thanks...yes. Easy to empty since I have the metal flex-hose. All I do is open the clamp that holds the top on (it's runs around the circumference of the tub and pinches the top to the tub). I then push the top up a few inches and slide out the tub and empty it.

As you see, I did a direct, straight-line connection from HF impeller to the chip collector (at bottom) and to the dust collector (to the right). I did some testing and found that just a few feet of hose and/or any un-necessary bends will dramatically reduce the air flow and suction. So made it as straight and short as I could...

cheers,

John


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

The first DC collection container I built was a box that held 72 gallons , it was something like 3' square and 2'hi. When I cleaned it out it was scooping out the sawdust into a wheel barrow. What a chore and a mess to clean up with all the spilled dust.
The one I have now is a 32gal. metal garbage can with a shopmade top and a groove in the top for the can to deal off against rubber weather stripping.
I also have an air lift I made from plywood, and use a HF wheel barrow inner tube to lift the can up against the seal and then I slide wedges under it to hold it. 
I use a 50 gal plastic bag inside that I hold in place with a piece of old P-Lam bent around to fit and taken out when full. Then just twist the top of the bag and put a tie wrap on it and lift it out.
Works for me.
Herb


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Finding a chip collector container with a flat top (and bottom) is the trick. I wish I had the money I've spent trying to cobble something together out of odd parts. I have a number of trash barrels with holes cut into the tops floating around. I could have bought the HF unit for far less in the first place. Oh well.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

If you ever have procrastinated emtying the dust bin because you were busy building and then forgot etc. You will experience a very nasty chore of having the chips and dust sucked up and blown into the filters to deal with.
VOE (voice of experience).
So as not to have this happen again I installed sensors at the top of the dust bin and they set off a Strobe light in the shop to tell me to dump the bin immediately. I contemplated one to shut down the DC instead of the light, but if I was in the middle of an operation, I might not hear it shut off and keep working.

I had my electrician wire a garage door sensors , and I installed them on the top of the bin. They seem to work , I have set them off twice and the bin was about 3/4 full.
Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

You could do it by weight as an alternative...
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10245


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> You could do it by weight as an alternative...
> https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10245


That might be a good alternative, Dan. I like that solution myself. Now if you could come up with a guy to empty the bin that one I would go for too.LOL.
Herb


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## furboo (Oct 12, 2015)

johnnie_dr said:


> ... I did a direct, straight-line connection from HF impeller to the chip collector (at bottom) and to the dust collector (to the right). I did some testing and found that just a few feet of hose and/or any un-necessary bends will dramatically reduce the air flow and suction. So made it as straight and short as I could...


Nice...I eek out a living doing fluid dynamics, John, so you know your way straight to my heart :wink:


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

tomp913 said:


> If you're asking about the larger barrel with the ribbed top, I don't think it has ridges like the top but it's not flat - I'll get back to you on that.


Sorry, just got a chance to check the bottom of the barrel. It doesn't have any ribs like the top, but is just slightly dished, low on the OD so any contents would drain to the outside. HTH.


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## furboo (Oct 12, 2015)

johnnie_dr said:


> I have that drum, from Amazon, and it works great...nice tight seal and solid construction.


 @johnnie_dr, I just got my drum from amazon. The thing is built like a tank.

One small problem: The bottom has a radius, so it doesn't sit flat. If you bump it, it rocks back and forth, a la Humpty Dumpty. Is yours like that? It won't matter as a chip collector, but if I ever want to use it for something else, it might be annoying.

Edit: Radius might have been caused from shipping it from sea level to where I live, 7,200'. When I opened it I got quite the boom! My wife cried out "Are you OK?????". Wow. So it certainly provides an air-tight seal.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Guys , I suspect when and if I ever get my planer running (after you know what ), that a chip collector may be necessary. Anyways , do you loose much cfm when you add one?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Guys , I suspect when and if I ever get my planer running (after you know what ), that a chip collector may be necessary. Anyways , do you loose much cfm when you add one?


Not much if it is well sealed. The benefits outweigh the loss, at least in my opinion. The DC unit has a clear plastic bag, and no chips make it to that bag. Very important since I often clean out tiny cutoffs, shavings, a screw now and again, when doing shop cleanup. You don't want that stuff hitting the impeller, whatever size or material, is a BAD thing.


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## Tonto1 (Nov 10, 2016)

A friend of mine does machine shop services for a rock company in Brooksville, FL. They use industrial vacuums (steel impellers) to suck up rocks. He has a company that rubber coats the impellers when the break. Says they last much longer when rubber coated.


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## johnnie_dr (Jan 8, 2016)

Hi Furboo,,

Hmmm. Must be an altitude thing ?? Nope, my drum was dead-flat on the bottom. I do wonder if it was sealed tight enough, you actually developed a pressure differential from sea-level (at Amazon) to you place at 7K feet. Thus causing the bottom to warp or cup, but heck that would have to mean it was REALLLY tightly sealed. And if it were , then you'd expect the bottom to cup inwards, to out, going from atmospheric (at sea-level) to a lower pressure at 7K feet.

Well...I guess you've got a little extra room for more chips now ;-)

johnnie


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## furboo (Oct 12, 2015)

johnnie_dr said:


> Hmmm. Must be an altitude thing ?? Nope, my drum was dead-flat on the bottom.


John, it was definitely the altitude. The bottom is now flat. I put a heavy tool box on it all night. After living here for 20 years, I'm used to this with things like bags of potato chips, but I'm really surprised this drum seals so tight.


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## furboo (Oct 12, 2015)

johnnie_dr said:


> Hi Furboo,,
> 
> Hmmm. Must be an altitude thing ?? Nope, my drum was dead-flat on the bottom. I do wonder if it was sealed tight enough, you actually developed a pressure differential from sea-level (at Amazon) to you place at 7K feet. Thus causing the bottom to warp or cup, but heck that would have to mean it was REALLLY tightly sealed. And if it were , then you'd expect the bottom to cup inwards, to out, going from atmospheric (at sea-level) to a lower pressure at 7K feet.


...oh, and in terms of the pressure difference, I was curious. It's about 3.5 psi higher at sea level than 7K. Check out

Altitude above Sea Level and Air Pressure

From that, I get that there was about 1200 lbs of force on the bottom (area times pressure). That's a lot, so I bet it leaked some.

At the grocery, our potato chip bags all look like balloons. For some reason the Kettle One are the worse.


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