# No. 10 wood screws



## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

I have to put a few No. 10, 2 inch wood screws in a soft wood. When I look at the screw (they are big) it becomes obvious that I need to predrill a hole. How big of a bit should I use?

Thanks

Steve Bolton


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Steve

a #10 screw is 3/16" in diam. select a drill that is just under it.. 

Many things come it to play, end grain insert, a full 2" in to the wood, softwood, hard wood, MDF, plywood ,etc..

You can find a chart on the net but no hard fast rule for all drill jobs 

The drill set that work best for wood screws ▼
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10609&filter=counter sink drills

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S Bolton said:


> I have to put a few No. 10, 2 inch wood screws in a soft wood. When I look at the screw (they are big) it becomes obvious that I need to predrill a hole. How big of a bit should I use?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Steve Bolton


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,



> but no hard fast rule


Bob, I have to disagree with ya on this. The norm is, the drill bit should be no larger than the size of shank of the screw.

Also, pending on the application in which they are used in, put dry soap on the threads. They will go into the wood a lot easier.


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

good ideas.

thanks

sb


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Steve,
Here is a place to find out all you ever wanted to know about screws:

http://www.mcfeelys.com/iCatalog/september/f/14#view

There is a chart at the bottom of the above page for screws and pilot sizes. According to this, the pilot hole size is determined by the wood you are screwing into. One size for soft woods and another size for hard woods. Also I read somewhere that using soap for a lubricant on screws attracts water and can rust the screw so you should use wax instead.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Steve, there are simple plastic gauges like this one with a #10 screw sticking out, following the line to the right is for soft wood and shows a 4.5mm drill, following the left one for soft wood shows a 4mm drill. In spite of having this gauge, I normally hold a sample screw up to the light with a drill in front of it and choose one that covers the core, leaving the actual thread showing at each side. If the job in hand is really important, I drill a test hole in a scrap of the same wood and drive a screw into it.


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## wnagle (Oct 13, 2008)

You are right on that Harry! When I built my router table, I put some hinge screws in the bubinga stile on the finished project and broke the first screw off. Ended up drilling larger holes using wax and prethreading them... not to mention repositioning my hinges. Should tested on some scrap!!!


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

Ken -

I have a small quibble with your suggestion about "dry soap". The dry part is definately good, don't use liquid soap! But my quibble is that soap is hydroscopic, that is to say "water loving" and has a tendancy to attract water from nearby materials (the wood) and hold on to it. Now depending on the screw type and finish you have the makings for a rusted screw.

Beeswax or parafin wax is much less hydroscopic. I picked up a small chunk of parafin from my girlfriend's mom who does home canning. She always has it around. But you can also buy some at the supermarket (yes, I understand that Baldwin doesn't have one any more so it is a trip into Lawrence or Ottawa which kinda sucks).

Also having the parafin around I can swipe it across the sole of a handplane if it seems like it needs a little slickerizing. Never tried it on the router baseplate but I bet it would work there too. Likewise on the bearing surface of skis or an edge guide.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Guys

I use Johnson Floor wax, I have a can in the shop all the time,,I just stick the screws in the can of wax and move it over to the job that needs to be done , the wax holds the screws for me and when they come out they have the wax coat on the screws..


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

rwyoung said:


> Ken -
> 
> I have a small quibble with your suggestion about "dry soap". The dry part is definately good, don't use liquid soap! But my quibble is that soap is hydroscopic, that is to say "water loving" and has a tendancy to attract water from nearby materials (the wood) and hold on to it. Now depending on the screw type and finish you have the makings for a rusted screw.
> 
> ...


 
Hi rw,

You are correct about dry soap being moisture absorbant. Wax is the best choice period. I probably shouldn't have replied in the first place since it was going on 11pm and I was tired from a long day. 

Speaking of driving into Ottawa.... it's a nightmare now. Since they are building the new highway.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

There are tap and die charts on the net.
Here's one

I know the difference is wood but the rule for new holes in metal for screws and bolts is to match the minor diameter of the shaft, (is minus threads).

A simple but effectiveway to find the minor diameter is to use 2 thin blades from a feeler guage set. While attached spread the 2 blades just enough to slide the tips halfway over the shaft then measure the span at the tips.


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI Guys
> 
> I use Johnson Floor wax, I have a can in the shop all the time,,I just stick the screws in the can of wax and move it over to the job that needs to be done , the wax holds the screws for me and when they come out they have the wax coat on the screws..
> 
> ...


Nifty trick.


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## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

I mounted a 9/64 inch drill bit in a drill press, checked it for 90 degrees and drilled the holes. The no. 10 screws went in very easily.

I was screwing into white pine, but not the end grain.

Thanks

sb


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

*Bit chart*

Here is another chart for screw & drill size depending on hard or soft wood, and face or end jointing. Don't know if it will help, but it is something to look at.


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## downs124 (Nov 4, 2008)

Re: # 10 wood screws and wax !

While it is necessary to use "wood" screws sometimes there are inherent problems such as the beveled head splitting / wedging. I prefer a shouldered screw like the pocket screws but alas you must countersink them if you have a flush application. 

All need a pilot hole obviousely.

About the parafin or other waxes, use some caution, but never put it on your router table. All waxes will interfere with most finishes when you attempt to apply over even was residue (called fish eyes). The finish will actually fish eye around the wax and will not cover that spot.

Phil


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi downs124

Hi , using wax on the screws it can transfer to the lumber ,here's little trick to get it off the wood b/4 you put on the stain or finish ..

Pickup a clear spray bottle then put some white vinegar 1/2 way of the bottle then pour in some clean water ( bottle water works best ) a 50/50 thing,,now b/4 get ready to finish the wood spray it on the screws and around the screw holes then wipe it down with a clean rag or paper towel ,this also works well for removing glue over run on the joints or to remove the body oils from your hands left on the lumber..don't soak the wood the water will raise the grain a little bit but a touch of sand paper will take care of that. 

vinegar = acetic acid..


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downs124 said:


> Re: # 10 wood screws and wax !
> 
> While it is necessary to use "wood" screws sometimes there are inherent problems such as the beveled head splitting / wedging. I prefer a shouldered screw like the pocket screws but alas you must countersink them if you have a flush application.
> 
> ...


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

The fish eye (in finishing) that I am familiar with is caused by silicone contamination. I agree any wax would need to be removed before any finish was applied.

Regards

Jerry


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## ironhat (Jun 20, 2006)

I don't believe that I read a mention of the difference in diameter of the hole in the top board and the one in the bottom board. Meaning, the bottom board's hole is as has been stated at just the diameter of the shank. The hole in the top piece should be a pass through size so that there is no thread contact and as the threads travel into the second board the head of the screw acts as a jaw on a vise and squeezes the two boards together. I've had the experience of drilling one size hole in both and the boards wanted to spread away from each other. OTOH, I've seen it not make any difference.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi ironhat

It's best to use this type of drill bit when putting in wood screws. 
Then you only need to drill one hole,the step type drill will put in a over size hole for the shank of the wood screw 
I also use it all the time with dry wall screws, it will let the screw slip in the top piece of the joint..  and pull the stock down in place plus it will give a place for the lift up of the wood when the screw goes in to the bottom part of the joint.

Craftsman 5 pc. Screw Pilot Set
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00966260000P

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ironhat said:


> I don't believe that I read a mention of the difference in diameter of the hole in the top board and the one in the bottom board. Meaning, the bottom board's hole is as has been stated at just the diameter of the shank. The hole in the top piece should be a pass through size so that there is no thread contact and as the threads travel into the second board the head of the screw acts as a jaw on a vise and squeezes the two boards together. I've had the experience of drilling one size hole in both and the boards wanted to spread away from each other. OTOH, I've seen it not make any difference.


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## GBM (Dec 18, 2007)

I think the proper word for moisture attracting is hygroscopic...

I tried to post the url's but I do not have ten posts total so it would not let me.. but googling it will find the definitions...

Automotive primer is hygroscopic... so when you see cars out driving around all primered but not top coated... you know they are rusting under that primer and to do a proper paint job all that primer will have to be removed and the car treated for rust ... then start over from the metal...

wax would seem to be better choice and I just hold up the screw over the drills and find one which just gets hidden behind the shank....I also move it slightly to correct for parallax ....


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Steve, did you ever think it would take 20 messages to learn how to put in a soaped/nosoaped/waxed/paraffined/beeswaxed/pastewaxed screw ;?) Oops, I forgot, how to remove the soaped/nosoaped/waxed/paraffined/beeswaxed/pastewaxed ???

Don't ask how many members of this forum it would take to screw in a lightbulb!


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## Fourleftpaws (Feb 12, 2007)

> Don't ask how many members of this forum it would take to screw in a lightbulb


Now that is funny! But its easy - only one - but advise by many on how to do it.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

*How many????????????*



Fourleftpaws said:


> Now that is funny! But its easy - only one - but advise by many on how to do it.


Fourleftpaws: I disagree. I say at least 5. One to get the bulb and four to hold and turn the ladder. Now this is not counting advisers.


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## Electron (May 22, 2008)

I too don't understand all the fuss, many members have been screwing for years without any problems.


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## yoxi5236 (Jul 7, 2008)

I agreed in building person's viewpoint, thought your viewpoint is very novel, also said that your idea has the value very much,thanks!


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

Dr.Zook said:


> Fourleftpaws: I disagree. I say at least 5. One to get the bulb and four to hold and turn the ladder. Now this is not counting advisers.


Dang it! Been doing it wrong all this time. I hold the bulb still and get a crew to rotate the house around it...


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