# lap-joint jig



## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

I'm planning a shelving project that will require a lot of 45 degree lap-joints spaced 12” apart in 1” X 3” stock, 

Has anyone made a jig for doing lap-joints on a router table, or a table saw with a dado blade?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Doug


I made one for the router table, the router is the only way to do lap joints..
You can see it in my uploads or I will post some snapshots if you ask for them.

=======



dwall174 said:


> I'm planning a shelving project that will require a lot of 45 degree lap-joints spaced 12” apart in 1” X 3” stock,
> 
> Has anyone made a jig for doing lap-joints on a router table, or a table saw with a dado blade?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

dwall174 said:


> I'm planning a shelving project that will require a lot of 45 degree lap-joints spaced 12” apart in 1” X 3” stock,
> 
> Has anyone made a jig for doing lap-joints on a router table, or a table saw with a dado blade?


Hi Doug - How long is the stock? Trying to route a lap joint in the a foot or so from the end of a long board on a table sounds a bit dicey to me. Table saw would work, maybe with a purpose built mitre sled. Could also make a jig where you could clamp all the boards together and route them by hand. Then index the jig to the next position and route the next set. I did it that way for a picnic table build. Can get a bit confusing keeping track of which board faces which way when..:wacko:. hhehehe, but it worked well.


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> I made one for the router table,


Thanks that gives me some ideas! 


jschaben said:


> Hi Doug - How long is the stock?


The overall height will be 72”


jschaben said:


> Could also make a jig where you could clamp all the boards together and route them by hand. Then index the jig to the next position and route the next set.


Yea I thought of that for the straight 90 degree joints, But the 45 degree would be a little tricky!

I drew up a quick drawing of what I'm looking to make & all-together I'm looking to make like 10 of these units, 4 for a lumber rack & 6 for shelves.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Doug
> 
> 
> I made one for the router table, the router is the only way to do lap joints..
> ...


BJ my friend it's not often I disagree with you but, this one time I do. 

If have a RAS with the dado blade, this IS the best option. However, this can be done safely on both the RT & TS. Use of sled works best on the TS.

Lap joints can be done with a circ. saw, hand saw, and chisels. The trick is figuring out the best length distance for a stronger joint.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi my friend, it's true the RAS will do the job just like a chain saw and they will look like about the same job.


=======:sarcastic::jester:



Hamlin said:


> BJ my friend it's not often I disagree with you but, this one time I do.
> 
> If have a RAS with the dado blade, this IS the best option. However, this can be done safely on both the RT & TS. Use of sled works best on the TS.
> 
> Lap joints can be done with a circ. saw, hand saw, and chisels. The trick is figuring out the best length distance for a stronger joint.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

dwall174 said:


> I'm planning a shelving project that will require a lot of 45 degree lap-joints spaced 12” apart in 1” X 3” stock,
> 
> Has anyone made a jig for doing lap-joints on a router table, or a table saw with a dado blade?


Hi Doug,

If you can find a copy of this video "
*THE VERSATILE ROUTER DVD WITH PAT WARNER*

from Fine Woodworking (Tauton Press)
You will find the answers to your question.

Pat covers this topic in detail.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

dwall174 said:


> I'm planning a shelving project that will require a lot of 45 degree lap-joints spaced 12” apart in 1” X 3” stock,
> 
> Has anyone made a jig for doing lap-joints on a router table, or a table saw with a dado blade?


Here is another possibility Doug, suppose you use a 1.5" template guide and a 1" cutter and you want to rout a 3" dado, then, 1.5" - 1" = 0.5" + 3" = a slot 3.5" wide. The router starts with the guide pressed against one side and finish against the other side of the slot. I'll add a zip file


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Nice zip file Harry.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Be patient Titus, I was about to add the file when our power went off for an hour, so it should now be there. Glenmore will confirm that we lost Skype in mid-word!


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Harry,
It was a compliment.
The zip file was there, I downloaded it, extracted it and viewed all pictures in under 30 seconds.
Much better than individually clicking and closing pictures.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Hamlin said:


> BJ my friend it's not often I disagree with you but, this one time I do.
> 
> If have a RAS with the dado blade, this IS the best option. However, this can be done safely on both the RT & TS. Use of sled works best on the TS.
> 
> Lap joints can be done with a circ. saw, hand saw, and chisels. The trick is figuring out the best length distance for a stronger joint.


I'd agree here. I also think it will go quicker with a dado set in the RAS or TS. And if your dado stack is up to snuff, it'll look damn good.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Two points, firstly, I haven't seen a radial arm saw that will take 3" of cutters, except a 15" professional one that a late friend of mine had, secondly, very few members have a radial arm saw and even fewer would have such a dado set. What I showed is the way that I would do it using what I have with no additional expense. To make a dedicated jig using the same principle would cost next to nothing.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I honestly thought that the power went off before I clicked "save". When the power returned I didn't even look for it, I just went to "edit" and added it.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

harrysin said:


> Two points, firstly, I haven't seen a radial arm saw that will take 3" of cutters, secondly, very few members have a radial arm saw and even fewer would have such a dado set. What I showed is the way that I would do it using what I have with no additional expense. To make a dedicated jig using the same principle would cost next to nothing.


Why the hostility over an opinion?


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Cocheseuga said:


> Why the hostility over an opinion?


What is hostile in the response?
Harry just give his reasoning, I can not see any hostility in his text.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I've been seeing a lot of 'that isn't the right way to do it, this is' around here lately, and that came across that way.


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

You are, of course, entitled to your opinion as I am to mine.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

harrysin said:


> Two points, firstly, I haven't seen a radial arm saw that will take 3" of cutters, except a 15" professional one that a late friend of mine had, secondly, very few members have a radial arm saw and even fewer would have such a dado set. What I showed is the way that I would do it using what I have with no additional expense. To make a dedicated jig using the same principle would cost next to nothing.


I don't think Ken or I were implying the want or need to take off 3" of width at a time. A 3/4" stack with four or five passes would achieve the same results as a 3/4" bit on the router. If I had about ten more square feet, I'd own a RAS - they've become quite cheap on Craigslist. Seen a few around here for about $50, and in good shape.

Even without, setting up the dado blade and the miter gauge on the TS takes just a few minutes. I like jigs, and I think they have their place. But I think for something like this, the dado would be quicker and fairly easy.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

I don't think Doug has a RAS , he said he wanted a jig for the router table or table saw. doing on the table saw would be very hairy, almost a free hand job with a dado blades no safety guards can be in place , a table sled can be used but most don't have a sled for the dado sets..  or they don't wipe out the one they have just for some dado's slots.

A RAS saw will work very well but not real clean without making many cuts, the stock will have a bow to it I'm sure and not lay flat so to say it's hard to get a nice flat cut without clamping it down for each pass.

That's why I posted the router table jig, it can be set at a 45 deg.very quick, the jig holds the stock down to the table top so you can get a nice flat pass.
You can use the plunge router but you will need to find a way to index it over and over, I know Harry is not a big fan of the router table but this is one of the times it works very well..

==========


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> I don't think Doug has a RAS , he said he wanted a jig for the router table or table saw. doing on the table saw would be very hairy, almost a free hand job with a dado blades no safety guards can be in place , a table sled can be used but most don't have a sled for the dado sets..  or they don't wipe out the one they have just for some dado's slots.


For the dado cuts on non plywood, I can clamp my piece to the miter fence if I am worried about any movement. I honestly haven't seen any reason to be worried about safety.

When I move into a larger space with a dedicated cabinet saw, I will build a overhead guard though.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I guess I gotta vote for Harrys' suggestion, with one caveat. Since 1.5" bushings aren't the norm around here.... yet. Seems a flush cut pattern bit would work. 
Build the jig from workpiece falloff and you should get a pretty tight fit. Large top bearing bits aren't to difficult to come by. I don't have any problem with Bob's approach for the short boards but personally, I wouldn't be comfortable handling the 6 footers on a table. JMHO.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You know John I think I would use the laminated way with some 1/2" or 3/4" thick stock to make the lumber storage rack, it would be easyer than playing teeter totter with the long stock..  just cut the stock up and glue it up.

========



jschaben said:


> I guess I gotta vote for Harrys' suggestion, with one caveat. Since 1.5" bushings aren't the norm around here.... yet. Seems a flush cut pattern bit would work.
> Build the jig from workpiece falloff and you should get a pretty tight fit. Large top bearing bits aren't to difficult to come by. I don't have any problem with Bob's approach for the short boards but personally, I wouldn't be comfortable handling the 6 footers on a table. JMHO.


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

I've done it both ways (router and TS and they both have their good point and bad. The main thing I don't like about using the TS (with a dado set) is setting up the blades. Once they're set though, it's really easy, unless the boards are long (like in this case). Long boards are hard to control on the TS. An RAS with a dado set would work well here except you would need a RAS set up with a long table and a way to set the stops (I don't have this). For me, this leaves the router and template method for long boards. Also, using a template would permit cutting more than one board at a time.

I don't have a router table (yet) but here too, the table and jig (or is this really a fixture) would need to be large enough for the long board.


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## wm_crash (Nov 30, 2009)

This is something I almost bought when they had it on special for under $50

Router Table Crosscut Sled - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Perhaps a cheaper clone can be made.

cheers,
wm_crash, the friendly hooligan


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cosmin

The 1st.one I made was like the one from Rockler but it got jamed up with router dust and it would not move after one or two slots  so that's why I used the edge of the router table top for the guide system..I will say I have used on 5 ft. long boards but it can be a bit hairy on the ends but I did use a support stands on both sides of the router cabinet, that did the trick.. 

===

=======



wm_crash said:


> This is something I almost bought when they had it on special for under $50
> 
> Router Table Crosscut Sled - Rockler Woodworking Tools
> 
> ...


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

*hi chris*



Cocheseuga said:


> Why the hostility over an opinion?


chris, i saw no hostility in Harry's post.

also, you need to realize that Harry and BobJ3 have probably 40 years each or more experience with the ras and the ts.

they are trying to teach newcomers the safest way possible. 

just ask yourself how much experience you have with a ras or ts. thats what i do.

but ive had more than 1 ts and used them for quite some time and have seen the damage they can do.

the older i get the more i respect a ts, and i will be 60 soon. 

i have told my kids that when i was their age, i was just like them, i thought i knew more than my father. but the older ive gotten, the more i see he was very smart and yes, i was a very dumb. 

ive said all this just to say this, always listen to people with experience.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Doug:

Ok, my experience, not necessarily shared by others.

Radio Alarm Saw with a 7/8" dado blade and stops for each side of the dado. I cut a bunch in 2x4s with less than stellar success. It seems that when I took to deep a cut the arm flexed and the bottom of the lap was tapered away from the fence. The further the blade went, the deeper the cut. The only way I came close to solving this was to take 1/16" cuts at a time. (30 yr. old Craftsman with everything tightened up.)

Alternative: a pair of skis with _Smooth_ rods. Lock several of your workpieces to the table surface. Slide the skis over the workpieces and set the rods perfectly parallel to your cut line and set your bit so it cuts your depth. To assist this, stick a block under the ski rods to stop them from flexing. Remove the block.

With the router off the workpiece, start it up and go to your working depth. Now, this is really scary but once you've done it you'll see how it works. Slide the router across the rods. I locked the skis in place and used one hand to move the router carefully across the rods.; Stop the router, move the skis slightly and repeat until all of the joints are cleaned. Your first cut goes from left to right. All of the subsequent cuts go right to left. The carbide of the bit should hit the workpiece before the body of the bit.

Other alternative, a pivot frame doing the same thing.

Other alternative, a sled with a vertical router mounted and free hand it.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Doug,

As you can see, there are more ways to achieve what you're wanting to do. There is NO RIGHT OR WRONG ANSWER here. The true answer IS, to safely achieve your results. I support all the methods that has been posted, Bj and Harry both know this and it's a rarity that we ever disagree. My response was only to show you that you have other options available. I've done lap joints on my TS clamped to a sled and even used my miter gauge as well, (material clamped to it). I've done them on my RT, I've done them using a circular saw, hand saw and chisel method. Skiis will work just as good, Bj's jig is also an excellent option. 

There's an old saying, "there's more than one way to skin a cat". No offense to any cat lovers, it's just an old phrase that carries a deep an true meaning.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

levon said:


> "Alternative: a pair of skis with _Smooth_ rods????
> 
> i just am not understanding this, i guess its just a preference as it has been proved that threaded rods work just as well?????????


When I tried the sliding trick with my 1/2" Acme threaded rods, the router base would catch and grab and move jerkily and the resulting cut was very rough. The smooth rods can do a nice job. I also found that the threaded rods chewed the devil out of my router base thus knocking the router base out of tolerance. I disagree that it has been proven that the threaded rods work just as well. I'm the only one to do experiments on this and found the threaded rods inferior for many reasons. 

However, there are those who's opinions differ and I support their expressing them.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

i think many have tried both, and we will agree to disagree. this is my opinion and that is yours .


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

I'm awaiting for other members to test and prove or disprove my results.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

sorry, youre right ron


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Guys

I'm not sure why you would want to move the router up and down the rods when the router is running, I have not seen one router base yet that is machine out for the rods.

Most are just some cast holes for the edge guides to fit in free and easy than when you screw down the thumb screws they are locked in place, most are bit over size so you can get the rods in easy but not made to be used in other way..

I now have 8 ski jigs now and all use threaded rod and they all work very well with the thread rod but I don't drag my router over the rods ,move it to adjust it yes.

But that just my 2 cents 

=


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

Do what you feel best.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> I'm not sure why you would want to move the router up and down the rods when the router is running, I have not seen one router base yet that is machine out for the rods.


Several of the Trend routers are specifically built for use on their pivot frames. In their documentation they specifically allow that their routers will slide across the rods of their pivot frames. Thus their bases on the models that are compatible to their pivot frames must be robust enough for that kind of use.

My M12V base rod holes are sufficiently supported to allow for _lubricated_ sliding on smooth rods. However, I think one of the strengths of my base is that the base rod holes are not round but hex. This creates one point of stress that can be supported and measured. There are nylon chips that can be used as a bearing points in those holes. 

Thanks for the observations. Neat solution.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

I also have a Hitachi M12V router and the holes are hex some what they are 11.8 mm in diam. but very ruff inside like they would be if they where just a stamped casting would be like and made for very light duty..not sure how one could get nylon insert in the hole and use 12mm rod in the same hole..

Have you got a snapshot of them in place would like to see how you did that.I just may do it also.

======



allthunbs said:


> Several of the Trend routers are specifically built for use on their pivot frames. In their documentation they specifically allow that their routers will slide across the rods of their pivot frames. Thus their bases on the models that are compatible to their pivot frames must be robust enough for that kind of use.
> 
> My M12V base rod holes are sufficiently supported to allow for _lubricated_ sliding on smooth rods. However, I think one of the strengths of my base is that the base rod holes are not round but hex. This creates one point of stress that can be supported and measured. There are nylon chips that can be used as a bearing points in those holes.
> 
> Thanks for the observations. Neat solution.


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> I don't think Doug has a RAS , he said he wanted a jig for the router table or table saw.


 No I don't have a RAS but I would like to get one someday! 
My TS is a Ridgid 3650 with a right side router wing and a out feed table. The front fence guide rail would get in the way with your style jig, But I like your system as for being adjustable. I also like Harry's set-up which I can do on my workbench (that has several sets of “T” tracks for clamping everything down). I think what I'm going set-up is a combination of Your jig & Harry's template system.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Titus A Duxass said:


> What is hostile in the response?
> Harry just give his reasoning, I can not see any hostility in his text.


Absolutely NO hostility on my part either, thinking that Titus was joking because the zip file wasn't there (or so I thought), led to my remark to be patient. I really think that Titus and I are developing a good rapport. I do however appreciate members coming to other members aid when they perceive an unwarranted "attack"


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

You won't have to worry about any more 'attacks' from me. I'm done.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Cocheseuga said:


> You won't have to worry about any more 'attacks' from me. I'm done.


If I only knew who you are, I would probably send you a PM explaining the situation, however, as you are one of the anonymous members, I can't do that, so I'll just wish you all the best for the future.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Please do all remember that Doug talks about "lots" of lap joints so a fast and accurate method is required, I'm convinced that all the methods mentioned will work, but one has to remember that whilst Doug hasn't completed his profile so far as his tools are concerned, it's a fair assumption that with only five years experience he won't have a radial (note for Ron!) arm saw or possibly not even a table saw, but because he joined ROUTERforums, it's a fair assumption that he does have a router.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

cripes a guy can't even make a joke anymore



harrysin said:


> radial (note for Ron!)


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jschaben said:


> I guess I gotta vote for Harrys' suggestion, with one caveat. Since 1.5" bushings aren't the norm around here.... yet. Seems a flush cut pattern bit would work.
> Build the jig from workpiece falloff and you should get a pretty tight fit. Large top bearing bits aren't to difficult to come by. I don't have any problem with Bob's approach for the short boards but personally, I wouldn't be comfortable handling the 6 footers on a table. JMHO.


John, the guide and cutter sizes were the biggest that I thought members would have and so require only three side by side cuts, however, it's a case of using whatever guides and cutters are available. For instance, if we use a 1" guide and a 1/2" cutter, then, 1" - 0.5" = 0.5" + 3" = a slot 3.5" wide which means a minimum of six passes. NOTE, because the offset is the same as in the first combination, the width of slot is the same.

For newcomers, the simple formula for calculating offsets is: guide diameter minus cutter diameter divided by two, or for the size of the opening in the template, simply guide dia. minus cutter dia. plus size of the routed opening.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

harrysin said:


> John, the guide and cutter sizes were the biggest that I thought members would have and so require only three side by side cuts, however, it's a case of using whatever guides and cutters are available. For instance, if we use a 1" guide and a 1/2" cutter, then, 1" - 0.5" = 0.5" + 3" = a slot 3.5" wide which means a minimum of six passes. NOTE, because the offset is the same as in the first combination, the width of slot is the same.
> 
> For newcomers, the simple formula for calculating offsets is: guide diameter minus cutter diameter divided by two, or for the size of the opening in the template, simply guide dia. minus cutter dia. plus size of the routed opening.


Hi Harry, Yeah, I understood that. I was just trying to point out that I really liked your jig and it could be used as a zero offset with a flush bit

Edit: you guys have convinced me that I really need to try one. Should get a 1 1/2" soon if Lee Valley ever decides to ship it.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

I just got a chance to read this thread clear through... there's a lot of good ideas here... I think all can see the multiple ways to accomplish this... but my tiny addition is to recommend you do *not* use any method you do not feel safe performing. While feeling safe doesn't make what you do safe, if it feels unsafe don't do it. At a minimum you'll not have the confidence to execute it quickly and cleanly.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

BigJimAK said:


> I just got a chance to read this thread clear through... there's a lot of good ideas here... I think all can see the multiple ways to accomplish this... but my tiny addition is to recommend you do *not* use any method you do not feel safe performing. While feeling safe doesn't make what you do safe, if it feels unsafe don't do it. At a minimum you'll not have the confidence to execute it quickly and cleanly.


So very true Jim, yet another advantage with the method that I suggested because, using a PLUNGE router, the cutter retracts back into the housing as soon as downward pressure is released, unlike a table saw or router table, or even a radial arm saw for that matter.
By sheer coincidence, my brother-in-law has asked me to do a job for him that will require six lap joints, two at right angles the rest at an angle yet to be determined in a practical way rather than getting involved with Mr. Pythagoras!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"and it could be used as a zero offset with a flush bit"

John, I agree that would work using a cutter with a top bearing but the template would have to be very thick to allow a decent range of depth of cuts but I would certainly like to see it, this shows how several heads are better than one, get cracking John and beat me to it!


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

harrysin said:


> "and it could be used as a zero offset with a flush bit"
> 
> John, I agree that would work using a cutter with a top bearing but the template would have to be very thick to allow a decent range of depth of cuts but I would certainly like to see it, this shows how several heads are better than one, get cracking John and beat me to it!


Hi Harry - You are right of course. I was thinking more in terms of a "purpose built" jig where depth of cut would be something like 3/8" and jig material about 3/4". The bushing approach yields a much larger range of applications.


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## dwall174 (Feb 15, 2010)

harrysin said:


> but one has to remember that whilst Doug hasn't completed his profile so far as his tools are concerned


OOPS Overlooked that one! Got it updated for you!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

For Harry

The Lap joint jig can also be use with the plunge router on the work bench.. I didn't forget about your love of the plunge router 

=======


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Mr. Pythagorus can be your friend, but I prefer Mr. Bernoulli... the Master of fluid mechanics... a field of study best undertaken in your local pub.. with a yard of beer.

Say Harry... in the land of Oz, do people go into the local pub for a *meter* of beer... or do they sell it in 0.944 meter glasses? <g>


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> Mr. Pythagorus can be your friend, but I prefer Mr. Bernoulli... the Master of fluid mechanics... a field of study best undertaken in your local pub.. with a yard of beer.
> 
> Say Harry... in the land of Oz, do people go into the local pub for a *meter* of beer... or do they sell it in 0.944 meter glasses? <g>


Nah, Foster's only comes in cans


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Bobj,
I tried to find more details about your jig by look at you uploads.
You have 873 uploads, can you narrow it down a bit or give me a direct link to the jig details.

Thanks in advance.
Titus


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"
Say Harry... in the land of Oz, do people go into the local pub for a *meter* of beer... or do they sell it in 0.944 meter glasses? "

Jim, in the 46 years that I've lived in Australia, I can't remember ever going into a pub. Until a few weeks ago I had a double whisky every night at home, because I value my drivers licence. I then learned that the quinine in tonic water was a preventative for night cramps so I reduced the whisky to just a single and topped it up with tonic water, which has worked. At the wood show last Friday I had a "funny turn" felt feint with slightly blurred vision. A coffee and sit down returned me to normal. When I returned home I did a Google search on all the drugs that I'm on, 7 in the morning and 4 in the evening, a few of them said not to consume alcohol so now I'm just having a glass of tonic water during the evening. Today I kept an appointment with my cardiologist who assured me that my recent stress test went well and today's ECG and blood pressure were normal and to keep taking the medication!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Titus

Sorrry the uplods can be a PITA most of the time I have a hard time also, here a smalll tip, I use the date on the picture to find them in the uploads list most are about the same date and they list the date in the upload list 

jig below 
http://www.routerforums.com/portable-routing/7749-halving-joints.html

=====



Titus A Duxass said:


> Bobj,
> I tried to find more details about your jig by look at you uploads.
> You have 873 uploads, can you narrow it down a bit or give me a direct link to the jig details.
> 
> ...


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## Titus A Duxass (Jan 6, 2010)

Bob,
Thanks for the link and for the tip.
This jig is the next build project for me.
This will help me put some lap joints in oak for my stacking chair.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Bob

Thanks from me, too. I followed all the links and even got to understand how the Incra hinge crafter works. It's simpler than I'd thought. I really must get my metal working gear up and running again !

Cheers

Peter


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