# Sliding dovetails for cabinet constuction?



## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Current project is a tall narrow cabinet 66"Hx25"Wx13"D
It will have a combination of fixed shelves and narrow drawers.

TYPICALLY I have always just cut straight stop dadoes for the shelves etc and secured them with either finish nails or countersunk screws concealed with plugs.

Have a notion (a wild hair?) this time to use sliding dovetails instead of dadoes.
My thinking is that this will provide a tight joint between the shelves and the sides without the need for any kind of 'mechanical' fastener in the sides. The dovetails will be stopped in the front and closed off in the back by the cabinet back.

I've used sliding dovetails for other purposes so know I am making more work for myself than using simple straight dadoes -
My question is -- 
Is it just TOTAL 'Tim Taylor' overkill?
Or more to the point -- is there a reason I am overlooking that it would be a BAD idea?

OH - if it matters -
Material for both the sides and shelves is pine with some sound knots.
'off the shelf' 1x12 w 2x2 trim


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## fibertech (May 7, 2005)

I think your idea is very workable. If I recall, Bob and Rick have had episodes where they made shelves using this technique. This would be a perfect example of repetitive joints. Let us know how it comes out. -Derek


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Not a bad idea at all, Cowboy. In fact it will make for more secure shelves.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

fibertech said:


> . . . let us know how it comes out. -Derek


Well - since you asked.
Here are the 'jigs' I used - all made from scrap on hand.

Don't remember which magazine I stole the double-railed jig idea from but it did make life simple being sure the slots on each side were algned correctly.
To help line it up -- I routed a groove in each end then cut a 'tounge' on a piece of scrap and used that to mark the edges of the board.
Then all I had to do was line thes marks up with my location marks -- 

I'm sure there are more -- graceful ways to have achieved this - but ...
Given the limits of my budget and my skills -- I am pleased that -
So far -- everything is sliding together nicely.

And yes -- I need to change the date display on my camera -
Having the day of the month first -- is confusing. JUST realized I had done this.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

It's looking great Cowboy, tell me, do you send a straight cutter through first to make life easy for the dovetail bit?


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Actually -- I do remember reading that hint on here and thinking what a great idea.
Sad to admit -- it had totally slipped my foggy mind this weekend -- and I fell back into old habits.
Fortunately I had a good sharp bit and it was fairly soft pine.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Here are some links that may help... looks like you've already done it... sorry.

http://www.woodworkstuff.net/woodidxslide.html

Looks like you figured it out! Looks good!


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

NOTHING to be sorry about 

There are some great suggestions at both of those links.
Have bookmarked them both for future reference.

One thing I have learned is in working with both computers and wood -- 
no matter how much you know -- there is always SOMEONE out there who has thought of something you haven't yet.
In my case -- a LOT of someone(s)

That's the great thing about a forum like this.

And -- Thanks -


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Drugstore Cowboy said:


> NOTHING to be sorry about
> 
> There are some great suggestions at both of those links.
> Have bookmarked them both for future reference.
> ...


Hey, my whole website is an attempt to collect such things as that...  
It was easier & better than trying to keep track of bookmarks!
http://www.woodworkstuff.net/
I think you will like it!


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Hey, my whole website is an attempt to collect such things as that...
> It was easier & better than trying to keep track of bookmarks!
> http://www.woodworkstuff.net/
> I think you will like it!


You think correctly 
GREAT site -- can see I will be spending quality time there -


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## vapochilled (May 2, 2007)

harrysin said:


> It's looking great Cowboy, tell me, do you send a straight cutter through first to make life easy for the dovetail bit?


What a stunningly simple idea, I just would not have thought of it, another post it note for the router table


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

*Since you asked -*



fibertech said:


> . . . Let us know how it comes out. -Derek


Can't believe it took me a literal month of Sundays (and Saturdays - and at least one Friday) to get this done -- but - here it is. Don't judge it too harshly -- it's my first major project in almost a year. Trust me -- I know of several things I could/should have done different/better. I am my own worst critic. 
BUT - I delivered it to the customer tonite - and she was pleased - and that. after all, is ultimately the opinion that counts.
I was glad they were pleased because I had added some thick trim around the sides that wasn't in their original sketch to make the unit look a little more substantial -- and hopefully more stable.

As mentioned earlier -- I used sliding dovetails to join the shelves and the drawer bases to the sides.
The only metal in the unit is the tacks holding the back on - the screws holding the handle on - and two screws I added the the top -- just for luck.

One of the things that took so long - was buying and learning to use my first dovetail jig. Prior to this I had done my drawer boxes as full boxes with simple dado joints and then attached a front.. But -- I really wanted to learn dovetails. Not visible in the photos is the simple wood strips I used for runner -- two on the bottom of each drawer - straddling a third attached to the frame/base. The handles were shop made just using roundover and cove bits.
The cove is underneath forming a fingertip grip.

The customer also wanted a barrister style cabinet door --
Knowing their tight budget -- instead of buying the specialized hardware for this -- I used this simple dado and pin design I found online from Popular Woodworking. They opted to leave the handle off of this piece so the door could slide all the way back.

The contrasting back visible behind the top shelf left alone because the customer intends covering it either with a mirror - or some of their artwork.

The three quarter view -- was shot in my shop -- before the drawers were finished -- the white film - is dust.

Sorry for rambling -- its 2am Sunday morning - I SHOULD be sleepy -- but - Im not ..


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Thats a great looking project Cowboy. Take a look at Bj's dado jig http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2711-dado-jig-plunge-router.html It's very simple to build and very accurate. And dos'nt depend on the sub base, which is'nt always true. Also, the slot can be extended far enough to allow a starting point. So a plunge router is not required.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Drugstore Cowboy!

I think you've GOT it!

Looks great!!

Thank you for getting us updated!

There is one thing that went through my mind as I looked at the Flipper door (which looks great!) section... I was wondering if they were going to be doing any writing, paying bills, etc. (probably not)... Just in case, think of this... 
Put the opening front on hinges at the bottom (morticed in)... To open, pull the top forward and lay it down for a writing surface... opening the drawer below it for support. Rare earth magnets holding it shut in the corners. Like a Secretary...

Just a thought...

I think you did a great job on the project and you should feel very proud!!

Thanks again.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Cowboy,

All I can say is *SWEEEEEEET*!

The craftsmanship and jointery are excellent. You have got to be proud of that one.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Joe Lyddon said:


> Drugstore Cowboy!
> . . . There is one thing that went through my mind as I looked at the Flipper door (which looks great!) section... I was wondering if they were going to be doing any writing, paying bills, etc. . . ..


Thanks to all for the kind words. 

Joe -
I *like* that idea -- I've seen a couple of variations on that in antque shops. Have had in the back of my mind doing something like that for myself to go in the kitchen.

I did a drop front desktop something like that when I was a starving grad student in a garage apartment -- but I didnt get that nice --
I just hinged a door over the top shelf of a book case and supported it with chains at the corners.

As for this unit -- it's going in a bedroom -- so my guess is the drawers will hold clothes - the cabinet will hide some books and the shelf will hold a few what-nots.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Nice work Cowboy, I like it! 

Corey


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

That's really nice, Cowboy. I like the trim on the front, the curved look to it.
Sliding dovetails is the way to go... much stronger and no nails or screws.

~Julie~


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Cowboy, you did that wood proud...I really like the design, the finish, and all the extra personal touch features that you added to make sure that everyone that sees it knows that it's not store bought..nice job!  

Greg


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## PhilE-C (May 27, 2012)

'Tis a great Idea. I have a study in which I intend to build in cupboards, cabinets, book cases and sheving. Using Dovetail joints will be my main method for the fixed shelves and the multiple smaller drawers but I will still need the strength of drawer runners for the deeper drawers. Thanks for the idea.


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