# Well finally, I just bought and old Skil saw



## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

I don't often need one but since I'm going to build a garage and a couple of decks I've been watching Craig's List for a worm drive saw. Today I bought one for $50.00. It looks like it's been well used so it's a little rough but it powers smoothly when triggered and seems powerful. I hope it will be good enough for just and average homeowner and I look forward to giving it a try.

I do have an old Skil saw with the blade on the right but I think the worm drive will work much better.

I will admit it here, I'm a tool guy. I love having the right tool for the job.

Thanks for listening.
Bryan


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

SKill 77 is an old reliable, powerful, very heavy saw. I used one for near 20 years everyday. These days my hands and wrists are just to weak to use it. The newer lighter tools are near as powerful and far more elegant so I have graduated to those, even for framing and site work. For brute strength, framing, general home building, etc that Skill saw will remain a classic and will be used by tradesmen for many more years to come.

Just make sure the base isn't bent or twisted, those tend to get tossed around a lot. The base getting knocked out of whack was the only issue I ever had with the several I have owned over the years.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

dovetail_65 said:


> SKill 77 is an old reliable, powerful, very heavy saw. I used one for near 20 years everyday. These days my hands and wrists are just to weak to use it. The newer lighter tools are near as powerful and far more elegant so I have graduated to those, even for framing and site work. For brute strength, framing, general home building, etc that Skill saw will remain a classic and will be used by tradesmen for many more years to come.
> 
> Just make sure the base isn't bent or twisted, those tend to get tossed around a lot. The base getting knocked out of whack was the only issue I ever had with the several I have owned over the years.


I agree 100%, I made a living with those saws. It will take some getting used to ,Bryan, but having the blade on the left side is so much easier to see to use. When ever possable use the weight of the saw to your advantage. 

The one thing don't ever forget is to ALWAYS keep the nose of the saw down tight to the board. The fraction of a second the saws' nose is up off the board while cutting it will rear back at you like a mule. So when you plunge cut, Tip the saw up with the nose down and the blade above the work then start the saw and SLOWLY plunge the saw blade into the work until all the way down then cut forward.

Herb


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Herb Stoops said:


> I agree 100%, I made a living with those saws. It will take some getting used to ,Bryan, but having the blade on the left side is so much easier to see to use. When ever possable use the weight of the saw to your advantage.
> 
> The one thing don't ever forget is to ALWAYS keep the nose of the saw down tight to the board. The fraction of a second the saws' nose is up off the board while cutting it will rear back at you like a mule. So when you plunge cut, Tip the saw up with the nose down and the blade above the work then start the saw and SLOWLY plunge the saw blade into the work until all the way down then cut forward.
> 
> Herb


Listen to him too, the kickback on those things can be like a horse! It's easily one of the more dangerous tools on the job site, especially in inexperienced hands. For those that don't need that beast of a saw there are plenty of left blade sidewinder's now that weigh half as much.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Congrats...let the saw do the work...dont over extend your reach, it will lift the front like a wheelie...

Clean out the oil compartment with your favorite juice (i use Marvel Mystery Oil) and put in new grease...


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Nickp said:


> Congrats...let the saw do the work...dont over extend your reach, it will lift the front like a wheelie...
> 
> Clean out the oil compartment with your favorite juice (i use Marvel Mystery Oil) and put in new grease...


Nick, I never heard of it and just watched a couple of YouTube videos.

Tell me more about how you clean out the oil with Marvel Mystery Oil and what grease are you using in the gear box? Are you saying to add a little oil and run the saw a while then drain it? What grease and do I pack it in or what? I'd like to get this right especially since I really have no idea of the history of this saw and how good of shape it's in. The oil is a good start


And thanks to all of you guys that gave me heads-up warnings about the kick backs. I'll take it easy and see how the saw reacts. 
I really did want one of those newer saws but they are $200.00. If this saw doesn't work out I'll get one of those.

Bryan


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Congrats...let the saw do the work...dont over extend your reach, it will lift the front like a wheelie...
> 
> Clean out the oil compartment with your favorite juice (i use Marvel Mystery Oil) *and put in new grease..*.



*YOU WHAT???*
grease in the oil bath gear box???
groan....


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> *YOU WHAT???*
> grease in the oil bath gear box???
> groan....


I need to hear this. What oil then, 90 weight? I have no idea so I guess I could just search and read some manuals.

"Oh the pain the pain." Doctor Zachary Smith.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

bryansong said:


> I need to hear this. What oil then, 90 weight? I have no idea so I guess I could just search and read some manuals.
> 
> "Oh the pain the pain." Doctor Zachary Smith.


I used to use 90 wt., Bryan. The saw shops sell the recommended lube. Some guys use to use a white gunky stuff LubePlate?

Herb


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> I need to hear this. What oil then, 90 weight? I have no idea so I guess I could just search and read some manuals.
> 
> "Oh the pain the pain." Doctor Zachary Smith.


good way to go...
RTM..


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Skil 8 oz. Tube Worm Drive Saw Oil-80111 - The Home Depot


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> I agree 100%, I made a living with those saws. *It will take some getting used to ,Bryan, but having the blade on the left side is so much easier to see to use.* When ever possable use the weight of the saw to your advantage.
> 
> The one thing don't ever forget is to ALWAYS keep the nose of the saw down tight to the board. The fraction of a second the saws' nose is up off the board while cutting it will rear back at you like a mule. So when you plunge cut, Tip the saw up with the nose down and the blade above the work then start the saw and SLOWLY plunge the saw blade into the work until all the way down then cut forward.
> 
> Herb


also Bryan needs to remember the guide is placed to the right of the saw and wastes and drops happen on the left...


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> Skil 8 oz. Tube Worm Drive Saw Oil-80111 - The Home Depot


Great! I just so happen to be going to Home Depot tomorrow, Monday to order a window and an exterior French door. I'll get some oil too.

I'll look up a manual and RTM.

Thanks!!!

Bryan


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> I need to hear this. What oil then, 90 weight? I have no idea so I guess I could just search and read some manuals.
> 
> "Oh the pain the pain." Doctor Zachary Smith.


the reason many use grease or differential lube is lazy cheap fix to an issue that could destroy/wear out the gear case in the long run...

after years of hard life the gear cases weep oil and need to be checked and topped off often... setting for long time all of the oil drains out on it's own...
the fix is gaskets and seals before the drive shaft furrows... about 6$$ in parts..
the armature is the drive shaft... about 80-90$$$ plus labor and other odds and ends for a repair bill that could run 150-175$$$ 
many are too lazy to do this.. grow tired of it or can't be bothered...
hence the thick lubes and tired cliches...
these heavy lubes are forced out of the gears and don't flow back into the teeth/spiral... 
so in effect, IRL, you are running a dry gear set...
all down hill from there...

remember when the original plan is deviated from.. be wary...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> Great! I just so happen to be going to Home Depot tomorrow, Monday to order a window and an exterior French door. I'll get some oil too.
> *
> I'll look up a manual and RTM.*
> 
> ...


RTM = Read The Manual so you can guess what RTFM means...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

from the library if it will be ofany good...
ooops.. forgot one...

.


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## Bricknhank (Dec 28, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> I agree 100%, I made a living with those saws. It will take some getting used to ,Bryan, but having the blade on the left side is so much easier to see to use. When ever possable use the weight of the saw to your advantage.
> 
> The one thing don't ever forget is to ALWAYS keep the nose of the saw down tight to the board. The fraction of a second the saws' nose is up off the board while cutting it will rear back at you like a mule. So when you plunge cut, Tip the saw up with the nose down and the blade above the work then start the saw and SLOWLY plunge the saw blade into the work until all the way down then cut forward.
> 
> Herb


Yes, I concur. Can't beat the Model 77!


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> *YOU WHAT???*
> grease in the oil bath gear box???
> groan....


Sorry...force of habit calling heavy lube grease...

Skil 8 oz. Tube Worm Drive Saw Oil 80111 at The Home Depot - Mobile


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

bryansong said:


> Nick, I never heard of it and just watched a couple of YouTube videos.
> 
> Tell me more about how you clean out the oil with Marvel Mystery Oil and what grease are you using in the gear box? Are you saying to add a little oil and run the saw a while then drain it? What grease and do I pack it in or what? I'd like to get this right especially since I really have no idea of the history of this saw and how good of shape it's in. The oil is a good start
> 
> ...


Bryan...depends on whether the saw was taken care of or not...

Take the plug out, drain what oil is in there...inspect the gears, if there's any "staining crud" on them, put in the right amount of Marvel Mystery Oil...run the saw for several minutes. Inspect the gears again, drain the Marvel, fill with gear lube. 

Inspect it every once in a while and replace gear lube...

Marvel MO has always done a good job for me as an initial cleaner...

If the saw has been taken care of, empty the lube that's in there now and refill it...


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Stick, thanks for the PDFs.


Nick, I ordered some Marvels from Amazon Prime so I'll see it in a couple of days. Thanks for the explanation and I'll do the maintenance. 

And if it turns out to be a bad saw I'll buy new.

Thanks all,
Bryan


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

bryansong said:


> Stick, thanks for the PDFs.
> 
> 
> Nick, I ordered some Marvels from Amazon Prime so I'll see it in a couple of days. Thanks for the explanation and I'll do the maintenance.
> ...


You're welcome...if you get stuck, any auto store will have the Marvel...Autozone, etc...


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Is this the saw you are talking about? 

I have had this for over 40 years. They are bullet proof. The only thing which wears out is the cord and the rubber cord flexor. I bought a 25 foot extension cord and cut the end off to use for the saw. It was cheaper than buying a Skill saw cord plus you don't have to worry about pulling the plug out.

PS
I sure wish the pictures would come out right. Windows 10 sure messes them up. They look fine on my system.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> You're welcome...if you get stuck, any auto store will have the Marvel...Autozone, etc...


and a quart of it is usually good for several generations...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

As Stick points out grease gets squeezed out and while it usually does leave a fine film that handles the lubrication aspect (almost all greases have tackifiers added to them), it does nothing to remove heat which is the lubes other function. The heavier the grease/ colder the temperature the worse that gets. Oil does a much better job of dissipating heat. That's why your vehicle transmission and differential use oil for lube.

Standard base oils oxidize over time and lose some of their lubricity although I don't know if it is enough to make much difference if this type application. Synthetic oils aren't affected as much by oxidation and in a worm drive saw would probably never need to be changed.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I am not sure I would use differential oil as it expands when it gets hot and can blow seals. Maybe synthetic automatic transmission oil? 

I put differential oil in a lower unit of Envirude outboard motor and trashed it due to the oil expanding when hot. You know outboard lower unit motor oil might work.

I just use the worm gear oil.


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

*Skil 77*



coxhaus said:


> Is this the saw you are talking about?
> 
> I have had this for over 40 years. They are bullet proof. The only thing which wears out is the cord and the rubber cord flexor. I bought a 25 foot extension cord and cut the end off to use for the saw. It was cheaper than buying a Skill saw cord plus you don't have to worry about pulling the plug out.
> 
> ...


Hi Lee.

Yes, my saw does look like that only mine is more scratched up. I think the guy I bought if from said he replaced the cord.

I have Windows 10 and I haven't had the same problem as you with my pictures coming in upside down. Good luck figuring that out.

Bryan


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

I spotted an old Black & Decker Ripsnorter in my local secondhand tools place a while ago.

If I had enough space to just keep things for the sake of looking at them I'd have bought it but I'm not short of tools and they all have to pay their keep.
Classic tool though.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

demographic said:


> I spotted an old Black & Decker Ripsnorter in my local secondhand tools place a while ago.
> 
> If I had enough space to just keep things for the sake of looking at them I'd have bought it but I'm not short of tools and they all have to pay their keep.
> Classic tool though.


That was when B&D was a respected company. I had a B&D worm drive 6 1/2" I used to cut rafter tails after they were nailed down, bought it in 1968 and it was still going in 2012, never once had to repair it.

Herb


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## LazurusLong (Jan 20, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> good way to go...
> RTM..


LOL! I always heard RTFM... but yeah, for sure. Always as a last resort though RIGHT????:no:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

LazurusLong said:


> LOL! I always heard RTFM... but yeah, for sure. Always as a last resort though RIGHT????:no:


yup...
long after the fact...


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I just cleaned the lube out of my worm Skilsaw using Marvel Mystery oil. It was gunky. I refilled with worm gear oil and it is already to go now. 

First I drained it into a pan upside down. I then splashed some Marvel Mystery oil in and ran it for a minute. I drained it again real well letting it rest upside down in the pan. I then filled it up with fresh oil. The old oil was pretty dark brown and kind of ugly looking. I am glad this thread inspired me to take care of my saw.

The Marvel Mystery oil I spilled I used to clean the outside metal on the saw. It made it shiny like new.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

now clean the outside of the saw w/ turps to get rid of the MO...
that MO on the saw is going to attract crud from 15 blocks over...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

coxhaus said:


> I just cleaned the lube out of my worm Skilsaw using Marvel Mystery oil. It was gunky. I refilled with worm gear oil and it is already to go now.
> 
> First I drained it into a pan upside down. I then splashed some Marvel Mystery oil in and ran it for a minute. I drained it again real well letting it rest upside down in the pan. I then filled it up with fresh oil. The old oil was pretty dark brown and kind of ugly looking. I am glad this thread inspired me to take care of my saw.
> 
> The Marvel Mystery oil I spilled I used to clean the outside metal on the saw. It made it shiny like new.


Yup...that thing will last you forever...dump the gear oil you just put in after a few uses and refill with fresh...it'll be happier...

Good luck with it...


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

*Hey here's an update on my Skil 77 oldie.*

I used it yesterday and I think it's a piece of junk!!! 
I should have looked it over better in the first place so it looks like I'll be in the market for a new saw. I'll re-read this thread to get some ideas.

Bryan


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

bryansong said:


> I used it yesterday and* I think it's a piece of junk!!! *
> 
> I should have looked it over better in the first place so it looks like I'll be in the market for a new saw. I'll re-read this thread to get some ideas.
> 
> Bryan


why???


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

See new thread


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

bryansong said:


> I used it yesterday and I think it's a piece of junk!!!
> 
> Bryan


...huh...? what happened...? What did it not do for you...?

...can't leave us hangin' like that...


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Nickp said:


> ...huh...? what happened...? What did it not do for you...?
> 
> ...can't leave us hangin' like that...


Perhaps I'm being a bit hard on the old saw but it was a bugger to try to hold the blade guard back plus I was probably picked the wrong tool for the job. I was crouched down by my concrete block foundation, basement near the ground trying to cut back some old siding to make room for a ledger for a deck. My old circular saw was at my son's house and in hind sight that saw would have been better for that application. 
The Skil 77 was pretty awkward and I just couldn't find a comfortable way of holding it. It did make the cut but it was just so hard to use.
It is good to read that I can get a new lever for the blade guard so I'll have to look into that. I think the saw will work much better cutting from a saw horse.

Just a note, I have purchased the new oil and that clean out stuff mentioned earlier in this post but I haven't used them yet. I did want to at least try the saw out first. I apologize for being so negative.

Bryan


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

if you do not have a lot of experience w/ one it is two handed saw...
you don't need to open the guard to cut...
and it is a saw that is best supported during the cut...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

another thing...
a worm drive is a HD (emphasis on heavy) production saw...
aka 24/7 saw for framing...


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> another thing...
> a worm drive is a HD (emphasis on heavy) production saw...
> aka 24/7 saw for framing...


This is a good point for me to understand. I am just a home handyman that takes on most jobs around our home as well as being able to assist family members. I am also guilty of being grandiose and over-doing my projects. I'm not sure how to get around that.

So from this site I come and ask my questions seeking opinions and this helps move my heart. For example, I recently asked about the nail gun being set on purchasing a framing nailer for building my deck and garage. Then after reading all of the post to my thread I haven't bought a nail gun and I probably won't. It isn't really practical for me at this time. It could come in handy for sure but I don't really need it.

It's the same with these worm drive saw threads. They've really got me thinking, I don't really need a 24/7 saw.

Thanks for reading.

Bryan


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

There is nothing wrong with owning 2 circular saws. You own the worm drive for cheap money. Just buy a lighter saw. Over time you may prefer the worm drive.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

In any case, Bryan, this is a great learning opportunity in restoring tools. 
I wouldn't chuck it; the parts aren't going to break the bank, unless the transmission or motor are fried.
Worst case scenario is that now you've got a loaner for when your buddies want to borrow your saw...


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## bryansong (Mar 4, 2015)

Lee, Dan,

Both are excellent points. I'm pretty sure I will be buying a left side blade saw once I pick one as well as repair the beast. It does seem to run fine
but it's a bit scary and needs to be used in the right situation.

Thanks,
Bryan


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

like any other project, Bryan...right tool for right job...

You might consider a 6" circular or twin blade counter rotating saw for applications above the waist ... Heavier implements of destruction for below the waist...


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