# dust collection for a small shop



## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

I've read many threads on this forum about dust collection, but not all of them (there are so many!). They seem to assume one has a lot of room to put ducts and the dust collection machine itself, etc. I don't have that. I have a larger shop vacuum I use when planing wood. I take the machines outside on the driveway and use them there. I wear a surgical dust mask. I vacuum the dust up as I go. I don't cough after a project, but that doesn't mean I haven't been inhaling wood, I think.

What does the person without lots of space do for decent dust collection? I'm sure I'm not the only one with this issue. Any posts on this forum that deal specifically with this issue?

I do have room for the type of dust collector that mounts on the ceiling that filters the whole garage, but I usually work with the garage open, so I'm not sure this would work well. Besides, the garage isn't sealed so any dust collector would suck in outside air. 

Could I mount a small dust collector on the ceiling? For example, mount the Harbor Freight one up high? Not sure where I'd run the hoses. Maybe have a longer one I could hook up as needed. The bag will be an issue, too. Thoughts?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Today is the last day at Harbor Freight for the 25% off coupon for the DC unit. Several people have dismantled them and moved the parts around and up high. You can also roll it outside during use. You don't want the bag inside the shop when it's running, it will leak all kinds of fine and dangerous fine dust into your shop. You might construct a small shed, or a lean to next to your shop with a tube through the wall to attach your hose. Use the Rockler attachments. Don't forget the chip collector, it makes a serious difference.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

DesertRatTom said:


> You don't want the bag inside the shop when it's running, it will leak all kinds of fine and dangerous fine dust into your shop.


That's what I found so I got the Wynn 0.5 micron cartridge filter - makes all the difference in the world! I no longer have that fine layer of dust on everything around the DC and the rest of the shop. 

I agree about rolling it outside if you have that option (I don't) but otherwise get the Wynn or equivalent filter.

David


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The shop vac will take care of the debris (larger particles). If you are outside with the machine then if you are really concerned that you might still be breathing fine dust, and you might be getting some, then I would take a pedestal fan and position it at your side blowing across the dust source at an angle. That's the cheap solution.

You don't want the HF unit inside your shop without adding the filter David mentions which is about an extra $100. Putting it outside is not always an option and you may not want the side of your house caked with fine dust or your neighbor calling and complaining about it either. The ceiling unit takes time to clear the air. It won't prevent you from inhaling a bunch of dust while you are working. You can wall mount some DCs but they still take up some room and it's common to see piping running across the ceiling, especially in commercial situations where you need to do that to eliminate tripping hazards.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

install your unit outside the shop in a ''closet''..
vent the closet back into the shop to preserve your HVAC...

before you jump on HF unit... read what has been said about it here..


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

> You don't want the bag inside the shop when it's running, it will leak all kinds of fine and dangerous fine dust into your shop.


My experience is the opposite. I run mine in my garage, and don't see any fine dust escaping.


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

I do have a dust collector similar to the Grizzly GZ1028Z2. Sorry, I forgot tot mention that. I took it to work to store it (I don't have any space) and I forgot I had it. It runs on 220, which I don't currently have a plug for, which I could add fairly easily. I suppose I could keep it out of the garage and wheel it in to use. With the addition of the Wynn filter it would collect all the dust and not spread it around the yard, the driveway and my lungs.

I use a fan sometimes to blow the dust away, but with the garage open, any breeze blows the dust everywhere. The mask helps, but it fogs up my glasses.

I can't build anything fancy outside my house; the HOA (and one neighbor in particular) will not like that. But, I might be able to put the dust collector in some sort of small shed as long as it is hidden from view. I'd have to run a power cord to it along with any dust collection hoses. It would be a 30' run, I think. Probably too much for the dust collector. 

I just don't have room in my garage for more stuff: I have a metal lathe, table saw, metal mill, 2 cars (one is the wife's and one is a classic car, so they cannot live outside at all), a workbench and a toolbox. These take up all the available floor space and still leave room to walk around. I have everything else in cupboards and cabinets mounted on the walls and ceiling. I get out any other machines I need to use and mount them on a portable work table.


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

Just to clarify: the Wynn filter you're referring to is the big one that takes the place of one of the canvas bags, right?


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Yes sir. This is the only photo I have where you can see the filter - 









David


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

You don't mention what tools you are using, and this matters for your dust collection. If you are using tools with a 4" or larger dust port, then you will need a DC like the Grizzly you already have. If they are smaller portable tools then you have other options. Either way, you can get creative to save space. I have a narrow shop and did not want a shop vac taking up floor space, or a dust collector that was constantly in the way. To solve these issues I installed a central vacuum that handles all of my smaller tools like my miter saw, router table, oscillating sander, and shop cleanup etc... This vacuum has a heppa filter, small dust deputy, uses 2" ducting and blast gates at different tools. With the dust deputy I haven't had to change the filter in over 2yrs. I also use this for a my hand power tools. For the larger tools I modified my Harbor Freight dust collector so that it hangs in a corner with a dust deputy cyclone, 5" ducts run high on the walls and ceiling and I exhaust it outside to eliminate the filer. With the cyclone there is no visible dust exhausted outside, the one downside is that most of the noise is also exhausted outside which might cause problems with your HOA. My neighbors are mostly deer and other critters so they don't complain. The point is with some creative thought you can over come your space constrictions and have decent dust collection. 

The central vac takes up less than 18", (there are smaller units available) with the dust deputy a little more space is needed. The DC takes up about 30" and all of that is for the trash can. Again a smaller collection bin could be used.

Central Vac and DC


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Bob Adams DC setup is really nice and compact. The 4 inch Super Dust Deputy is a really nice way to separate most of the particles so the filter doesn't get clogged. Minimal floor space and a filter could be attached inside or outside.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> install your unit outside the shop in a ''closet''..
> vent the closet back into the shop to preserve your HVAC...
> 
> before you jump on HF unit... read what has been said about it here..


No link Stick. Here are some other reviews, in the order they came up in a web search:
https://www.lumberjocks.com/reviews/product/1636

https://www.wwgoa.com/article/harbor-freight-dust-collector/#

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/harbor-freight-2-hp-dust-collector-31876/

There are many brands that are better, but they are 2.5 to 3 times the price. If you can afford one with higher CFPM air flow, you might prefer it. However, for a basic DC unit for about $170, I think the HF is a good deal. You can also find informaiton on replacing its impeller with the one made for Jet (about $120), which will dramatically increase flow rates. There are a number of posts on doing this. That is one of Stick's points, that the larger Jet, for example, already has higher CFPM flow, and with a canister filter, does a good job of collection, particularly if you use a chip collector as well.

I have two shop areas, garage and shed, so I needed two units which was doable with the HF on sale with a discount coupon. The Jet or Grizzly was more than I could manage and the HF units work great for me. I have a home shop and do light weight projects. Don't need a pro unit.


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## Sominus (Oct 4, 2012)

The HF unit, with modifications (dust deputy, impeller and filter upgrade) will set you back about 600-650. That’s iff you plan on the upgrades.

By itself, the hf unit is a decent, budget starter machine for one or two tools, but (imho) not for a whole-shop solution.

As long as you enter the fray with an understanding that is realistic, your expectations won’t be unsatisfied...


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

He already has a DC equivalent to the HF.


> I do have a dust collector similar to the Grizzly GZ1028Z2. Sorry, I forgot tot mention that. I took it to work to store it (I don't have any space) and I forgot I had it. It runs on 220, which I don't currently have a plug for, which I could add fairly easily. I suppose I could keep it out of the garage and wheel it in to use.


Yes, add the plug, and wheel it to the machines you'll be using. Get some quick release connectors like the Magports. https://www.routerforums.com/woodshop-dust-control/139493-magport-something-new.html


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Are you referring to this model? If so then one thing to be aware of is that the cloth filter bags are rated for particle size such a 7.5 micron and so on. The one I got with my Shopsmith came with a standard filter bag which I later changed out for a finer filter bag. "Our standard 12" hood is designed to capture particles as small as 7 microns in size... the 24" model will capture particles as small as 5 microns... and the super 42" model will capture particles down to an amazing 1 micron in size ! The two optional (24" & 42") hoods offer up to four times the surface area of our original equipment hood, and that helps them maintain optimum airflow, even though the internal cake is thickening and the particle size is getting smaller".

And just because you can't see it easily doesn't mean anything other than it's just plain smaller but still not good to breath. I also run a ceiling hung room filtering system with a double filter system and depending on what material I'm working with and the process it's going under (sanding, routing, etc..) I may also be wearing my EZMask or a throwaway rated for extremely small particulates. When you work outside you do have the advantage of the air currents but they may be around you or away from you. Your clothing will likely tell the tale. The DC unit is something you really need to make room for. The one I saw I think you have is on wheels so that should make it far easier than a stationary piped system but you still want to be sure of it's capabilities and that it's doing a good job. I did get the 1 micron bag filter for myself.


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## grbmds (Mar 14, 2019)

If you're using the planer, etc. outside, then the only issue would be what you breathe. A powered dust mask like the Trend Airshield would protect you well. It's not HEPA but filters out enough that your biggest concern would be keeping the filters clean and replacing them in the mask.

If you want to use your machines inside then a roll-around dust HEPA dust collector like Laguna makes (there are others also) could be a good investment. I believe they have a model which is 110V made for connection to one machine at a time. Oneida makes the dust gorilla which is similar. These are pricey. For my money, though, a HEPA filter is best. The lesser filters will get a lot of the dust, but not the finest, which is the dust you really need to keep out of your lungs.

Again, though, if you're just using the machines outside, I'm not sure investment in a dust collector is necessary. Look on other forums, like Sawmill Creek, WoodTalk Online, and the FOG. There are lots of posts about dust collection, but you will get many conflicting responses. I would do some research online, searching for dust collection articles, maybe dust collection and HEPA filters.

Dust collection has a lot of parts, but the most important thing is that you filter out the finest particles possible before they get into your sinuses and lungs.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Using machines outside without a filter or even a DC is not necessarily workable when a homeowner's association is involved.


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## pennview (Aug 30, 2012)

Regarding the Harbor Freight dust collector, I've had one for a dozen years and it's worked great over that period. As soon as I bought it, I installed a Wynn filter and got rid of the canvas bag. The only issue, if you can call it an issue, is about a month or two ago the on-off switch quit working. Dismantled it, blew out the dust, reassembled it, and now it works again. I don't have dedicated piping. The impeller intake accepts a 5" diameter hose, which I use and then use a reducer at the various tools. It's more efficient that way rather than using 4" hose from the dust collector to the tool. Use one of Harbor Freight's 20 or 25 percent off coupons, and it's an unbeatable deal. If you're worried about longevity, buy an extended warranty.

For peak efficiency with the Wynn filter, use compressed air to blow air through the walls of the filter, thereby knocking off the dust that builds up inside the filter. Make sure the see through plastic bag is attached when using compressed air or else you'll fill the shop with very fine dust and negate all the benefits of the Wynn filter.


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## dgwoods (Oct 1, 2018)

*Festool Dust Deputy Setup for a really small shop*

I have a really small shop and do mobile work as well. Since I have a Festool track saw for doing panel work, I decided to add a Dust Deputy Cyclone DIY setup to my existing Midi. The vac is seldom connected to my 12" portable planer runs because the chips are so large there's almost no fine dust. Initially there was no static control, but I got tired of being zapped. The Festool dust port has a metal finger that contacts the anti-static hose connector. Internally a wire connects the clip to the ground terminal. After tapering the PVC pipe to fit the dust port, I added some heavy duty aluminum foil tape for the electrical connection. Problem solved. The cyclone breaks down for easy storage or transport. Below are some pics.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Woodworkers really need a dust collector that catches the finest dust and many dust collectors, especially the bag type collectors, don't catch much of this dust. It goes right through the bag of most bag type dust collectors. The larger saw dust and wood chips make a huge mess if you don't collect them, but it's the micron sized dust that will harm you, and you can't usually see this size dust. 

In my small shop I really don't have the space for large ducts and a big dust collector. I do my planing outside the shop and collect the chips in a large barrel. My major saw dust producer in my shop is my Unisaw, and I have to depend on it's base cabinet to collect and hold the saw dust from it until I shovel it out. This is pretty much the same for my band saw. The rest of my tools, sanders, grinders, drill presses, scroll saws, routers, and portable sanders all get connected to my re-purposed central vacuum unit that has a Dust Deputy connected in the line ahead of it. The Dust Deputy collected dust falls into a 20 gallon metal barrel under it. This combination removes 99%+ of all of even the tiniest dust particles from the air stream, but can't handle the large wood chips from planers, etc.. The exhaust from this vacuum is also ported out through my shop wall at the 2nd floor level, so none of even the sub micron dust ever gets fed back into my shop. I also use this system to vacuum my shop floor (after sweeping) and to clean up my tools. I also have an inlet port mounted in the outside wall of my shop next to the passage door so that I can take the 25' hose outside and vacuum my cars and trucks with it. 

I now have a 2nd Dust Deputy mounted on a 5 gallon bucket and connected to my shop vac for use whenever I need a more portable vacuum system. I use this system mostly when working away from my shop, like doing home renovation, etc. For this, I have to depend on the shop vac's filter to collect the super fine dust that the Dust Deputy misses, but I only rarely need to use this system. 

Charley


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

Thanks for all the input so far, I really appreciate it.

I think I may have to change the way I work. I've been using the table saw, bandsaw, planer and sanding in the garage with a dust mask on. I think I need to start using them outside. The table saw is on wheels. The bandsaw is not (it's a bench top model) but it does have a dust collection port that will fit a shop vacuum. The routing, planing and sanding can be done outside with some sort of DC system attached.

Just to clarify: the Wynn filter that goes on the dust collector makes it so I can use the DC inside the shop and no dust will get out, correct? I may go to a work system where I hook the DC up and just use it to collect any dust, even when I'm outside. I thought of using a fan to blow it away, but it often blows back at me or in the garage. I can put the DC I have just outside the garage in the back yard. It will not show from the street so I can store it there since there is no room in the garage. I just need to make sure the hose will reach into the garage. It's on wheels, so I can move it into the garage (provided I move the cars out), hence my question about making sure I can use it with the Wynn filter inside.

I can't have anything that has ports exiting out of the garage walls; the dust will show and the HOA will not approve. I can work with the portable tools outside, though. I think having a DC hooked up will mollify the one neighbor who complains about this sort of thing and be good for me as well.

I use MDF and oak, so I really need some sort of DC system. When I look behind stuff, it's covered with a fine layer of dust. Not good.

Maybe I'll post pictures of my shop so you can all see what I'm dealing with.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I had a thought the HOA would be a problem, especially with an annoying neighbor. I wonder if you can get a metal, or build a wood-framed "Water Heater" cabinet to attach to the back wall, then run a "pipe" back into the garage? You'll need to make sure it has a vent so you don't develop back pressure, but you could line it with sound absorbing material to avoid annoying the neighbor and generating complaints. If you show you mean to make it nice looking and paint it to match the house, you might be able to get it approved. Let them know the alternative is for you to haul all the saws out into the driveway for use, which will be noisier and disturbing to the neighbors. I suspect they will prefer a nice looking, noise canceling enclosure to having your saws out on the driveway. 

This is not only a dust collection, but a local politics issue. So if you make it clear, in writing, that you only have a few options to continuing your hobby while being a good neighbor. Most garages have air vents, and you may be able to use part of one to pass the pipe through. I'd be a little less happy about cutting through a wall, but the cabinet will conceal that. Politically I'd present my plan as trying to be nice to the neighbors. I believe most HOAs members know who the annoying people are and will be more likely to approve a small, out of sight solution that reduces the number of noise complaints. Both you and the association know full well that pulling your saws out is guaranteed to set off the easily annoyed. And that you are having either a stock cabinet or a pro carpenter build one, tells them you are doing your best to conform to HOA rules.

You will need to have a sizable air exhaust in that cabinet, and you can buy a cover that holds a large filter, but has vanes that keep rain out. The second filter will completely stop wandering sawdust from triggering a complaint. 

One other alternative to consider is to put the filter where it returns the air back into the garage. This will preserve your conditioned air, and also allow you to soundproof the DC cabinet, which may appeal to your HOA. If you can build the cabinet, you can keep the garage door closed when using your noisy tools, and you can soundproof the garage door using heavy, spongy material that, again, won't be visible to neighbors. WIN WIN. If all else fails, you could set up a chamber with non supporting walls INSIDE the garage, which will eat a little space, and still give you the double filtration I spoke of.


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

I looked at the Wynn filter (https://wynnenv.com/products-page/woodworking-filter-pricing/).

1. Should I get the MERV 10 or MERV 15? Is the extra 0.009% worth it/make a difference?
2. Closed top or removable top?


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

DesertRatTom said:


> I had a thought the HOA would be a problem, especially with an annoying neighbor. I wonder if you can get a metal, or build a wood-framed "Water Heater" cabinet to attach to the back wall, then run a "pipe" back into the garage? You'll need to make sure it has a vent so you don't develop back pressure, but you could line it with sound absorbing material to avoid annoying the neighbor and generating complaints. If you show you mean to make it nice looking and paint it to match the house, you might be able to get it approved. Let them know the alternative is for you to haul all the saws out into the driveway for use, which will be noisier and disturbing to the neighbors. I suspect they will prefer a nice looking, noise canceling enclosure to having your saws out on the driveway.
> 
> This is not only a dust collection, but a local politics issue. So if you make it clear, in writing, that you only have a few options to continuing your hobby while being a good neighbor. Most garages have air vents, and you may be able to use part of one to pass the pipe through. I'd be a little less happy about cutting through a wall, but the cabinet will conceal that. Politically I'd present my plan as trying to be nice to the neighbors. I believe most HOAs members know who the annoying people are and will be more likely to approve a small, out of sight solution that reduces the number of noise complaints. Both you and the association know full well that pulling your saws out is guaranteed to set off the easily annoyed. And that you are having either a stock cabinet or a pro carpenter build one, tells them you are doing your best to conform to HOA rules.
> 
> ...


Good idea! All good points. I hesitate to involve the HOA because they might just say no because they really have no idea what this is. However, I might be able to show them pictures/sketches so they can see it will look nice and include your suggestions about the other option being to drag it out in front and make noise, soundproofing, and the other mitigation solutions you mentioned. We are supposed to get approval even for stuff in the backyard, but I don't think anyone does, especially if it doesn't show. I only have one neighbor who is a problem; all the other ones think my hobbies are really cool. In fact, when they hear the saw, they come over and ask, "Watcha buildin'?" The guy down the street has a shop-built cyclone DC system. 

I thought I might make an enclosure right outside my garage to store my existing DC in. It would be hidden from the street by a wall. The DC is 58" tall and the wall is 65". I could wheel it out to use it, or even use it in place. Does the type I have (the typical bag type) need a huge exhaust vent? How would I calculate the size needed?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Not sure of the exact size you'll need, but If you used 20x20 filters, the opening should be enough to keep back pressure from building up. In my setup, I have a 20x20 Return Filter Grille, like the one in most houses, to hold a filter for the air returning to the shop. To me, that extra filter can't hurt. 

You might be able to get an electrician to hook your DC up to the Electric Dryer outlet that's in most modern houses. Heck, our house was built in 1986 and has one rated at 50 amps. I'm still inclined toward the idea of building an enclosure outside in the back. But you have to live with it, not me.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Your table saw is going to be the worst offender. Some are now available with an overarm blade guard/dust collector for that reason. A lot of the sawdust they throw is produced above the table where there is no way for a DC to deal with it without that guard. Plus there is the noise issue.I recall one member several years ago who came looking for sound deadening ideas for them. They are very noisy and the noise is an especially annoying frequency. Using it outside eliminates most of the dust problem for you but that and the noise may be a problem with your neighbors. I suggested erecting a curtain around it at the time which could have a DC drawing air from it to get rid of the residual hazard. A styrofoam box around the saw was also suggested as very low density panels do a great job of deadening sound and the really annoying whine they make is muted significantly.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

HWK290 said:


> I looked at the Wynn filter (https://wynnenv.com/products-page/woodworking-filter-pricing/).
> 
> 1. Should I get the MERV 10 or MERV 15? Is the extra 0.009% worth it/make a difference?
> 2. Closed top or removable top?


I got the removable top figuring it would be easier to get really clean if I want to go to the effort. And I have removed it a few times to use the shop vac to clean the insides but it's easy to just blow air from the outside. Even though I don't remove the top often I wanted the option. Also, if you ever wanted to stack two together you'll need the removable top on at least the bottom one.

David


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I don't have a homeowner association, but live in an up-scale neighborhood with doctors, lawyers, etc. so I try hard to be a good neighbor. My saving grace is that I live on the end of a peninsula in a lake, so I try to make my noise on the lake side of my home and shop. The Canadian Geese don't complain, and I wouldn't care if they did, but if the fabric cover comes off my barrel while I'm running my planer outside, the escaping chips sometimes end up in my neighbor's pool, so I then need to work quickly to clean the pool for him. 

The exhaust from my central vacuum is piped out through the lake side wall of my shop, up high near the 2nd floor roof, again aimed toward the Geese, who don't complain. It sounds like a small jet plane, so they move to the other side of the lake when it's running. At least they aren't grazing and crapping on my lawn and sidewalks then.

Charley


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

CharleyL said:


> Woodworkers really need a dust collector that catches the finest dust and many dust collectors, especially the bag type collectors, don't catch much of this dust. It goes right through the bag of most bag type dust collectors. The larger saw dust and wood chips make a huge mess if you don't collect them, but it's the micron sized dust that will harm you, and you can't usually see this size dust.
> 
> In my small shop I really don't have the space for large ducts and a big dust collector. I do my planing outside the shop and collect the chips in a large barrel. My major saw dust producer in my shop is my Unisaw, and I have to depend on it's base cabinet to collect and hold the saw dust from it until I shovel it out. This is pretty much the same for my band saw. The rest of my tools, sanders, grinders, drill presses, scroll saws, routers, and portable sanders all get connected to my re-purposed central vacuum unit that has a Dust Deputy connected in the line ahead of it. The Dust Deputy collected dust falls into a 20 gallon metal barrel under it. This combination removes 99%+ of all of even the tiniest dust particles from the air stream, but can't handle the large wood chips from planers, etc.. The exhaust from this vacuum is also ported out through my shop wall at the 2nd floor level, so none of even the sub micron dust ever gets fed back into my shop. I also use this system to vacuum my shop floor (after sweeping) and to clean up my tools. I also have an inlet port mounted in the outside wall of my shop next to the passage door so that I can take the 25' hose outside and vacuum my cars and trucks with it.
> 
> ...


So I'm guessing your not a big fan of Canadian Geese. I hadn't heard a table saw referred to as a Unisaw in years. Had to look that up just in case......


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

Here's a sketch of what I'm thinking of making. The filter on the side is 20" x 20". The round circle is where the intake hose goes. The door on the narrow side opens for access to the inside of this cabinet. Ill paint it to match the house.


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

Here is a picture of the actual place. It's 11 feet to the table saw.


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## .220977 (Aug 15, 2019)

Hmm...Maybe install it outside if there's no room for it inside your shop?
I've been researching this and found this article. I don't know if it will help though.

https://www.danpattison.com/blog/2016/11/29/small-shop-dust-collection-solutions


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

WoodWorkerNewbie said:


> Hmm...Maybe install it outside if there's no room for it inside your shop?
> I've been researching this and found this article. I don't know if it will help though.
> 
> https://www.danpattison.com/blog/2016/11/29/small-shop-dust-collection-solutions


Thanks. Any info I get is helpful. Seems like everyone who has some serious dust collection has a dedicated shop and the space for it. I don't; my garage is a "working garage": we park cars in it, have the kids' stuff, use it for storage, etc.

I need to figure out how to collect dust from my machines without having to assemble the DC system every time. I thought I would set up the DC I have outside my side garage door (as you suggest) and hook the hose up to each machine as I use it. I'm looking for ideas, but I need to start using the tools and the DC and see what works for me.


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

Most dust collectors are on wheels. Keep a 10' hose connected to it, and just roll it to the machine you are using. There are several quick connect fittings for dust hoses. Only takes a second to connect the hose.


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

ger21 said:


> Most dust collectors are on wheels. Keep a 10' hose connected to it, and just roll it to the machine you are using. There are several quick connect fittings for dust hoses. Only takes a second to connect the hose.


I thought the same thing; how hard is it to attach a hose?! But... I've found that I'm more likely to use it if it's mostly ready to go. I'm looking for ideas and trying to figure something out.


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

I sketched out a possible ducting solution:

1. I thought I would store my DC just outside the side door and run a hose to a fitting near the table saw. It would be a "Y" fitting; one side for the table saw, one for the rest of the system. A gate would block off the rest when I use the table saw.

2. I use my sander and bandsaw in my work area so I routed some ducting behind the workbench. I could run some flexible hoses to the ports on the machines.

3. I thought I would have a connection to the left of the work bench (not shown on the sketch) for using my router and planer. I'd just run a flexible hose to them.

4. have a 1HP DC. I'll need to find out if this will have enough power to suck thru about 50 feet of ducting.

5. At some point, I think I need to reduce the duct size.

6. I would have gates at various points to increase suction as needed.

7. I tried to keep the amount of bends to a minimum. There are five 90 degree bends. I might need to add a 45 degree by the table saw to get around something (not shown). That's 450 degrees (maybe 495) of bends.

I didn't show everything in the garage on the sketch, by the way, just the relevant items.

Thoughts?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Keep in mind Jeff that a DC doesn't actually work on suction, it works on air flow. When you reduce size you also reduce air flow. The debris and dust rides that air column to the collector. So when you only have a small opening for something like your band saw you may need to open a gate past that to get enough air flow to make it work properly. In that case instead of ending a run at the reduction you should connect with a tee or wye and put a blast gate on the end of that so you can crack it open a bit. For dust it might not be that important but if you're making chips it might be. The air flow going by the tee or wye can actually increase suction at the tool.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Two 45° fittings are more efficient than one 90° fitting, btw.

David


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

I was reading thru the info I got on dust collection from this website and found this: "If the branch is smaller than 3" dia., requirement is high velocity vacuum, not volume dust collection, it is recommended to use a shop vac." Looks like I don't need a DC for this after all.

I think for the sander, planer, router and bandsaw, all of which have smaller diameter ports, I could install a small metal duct behind the workbench (see my sketches) that I hook my vacuum up to when I need to use any of these. That eliminates the ducting needed to cross the garage. This allows me to just use the DC for the table saw. 

I did some calculations and it appears my system requirements are 1370 CFM @ 10.79 SPWG. The Grizzly DC units that look like mine barely handle that.

So, to conclude: it seems to me that I can use a shop vac for the tools with smaller ports, I just need to make a small duct system to hook up a shop vac to to make it more convenient. Otherwise I'd have to hook the shop vac up to each tool.
I can use the DC for the table saw. It's not too hard to hook up as needed, but I can always make a duct for it if I find that it's really a pain to hook it up every time.

Now if I could just find more time to work on projects, I could try all this out and see if what I'm suggesting will actually work in a real world setting!


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## dgwoods (Oct 1, 2018)

Couple of comments about HEPA filters and hoses. A HEPA filter is only effective if there is a prefilter bag to collect all the larger particles. The emergence of HEPA filtered "shop vacs" in the US was driven by updated lead abatement regulations. Those dust vacs/extractors are certified to be EPA RRP compliant. Certified models have a sticker on the case. I had both a Shop Vac w/a aftermarket HEPA filtered installed and a Festool Midi and the Shop Vac leaked fine dust thru the exhaust port and seal at the top cover. The Festool is in a totally different class.

The performance of your system is highly dependent on the flexible hose. Hoses w/smooth interiors are much better and positioning the hose w/as few sharp bends will make a noticeable difference. When I'm in my workshop, I find most of the hoses are too long. Given the small size of your shop, you might want to consider a rotating arm w/a short length of hose at the end. Unplug the hose and swing the arm over to a different tool. The are many different examples in the various woodworking forums.

As Dan's blogs mention, sealing up the exhaust area on table saws is critical for a working system. I find the biggest offenders are routers and miter saws.


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

I cleaned up my table saw. It is full of small openings! I thought I might plug them with either the silver tape used in duct work or some sort of caulk. For the bigger ones I thought I would make cover plates out of aluminum. I thought this might increase the suction. Otherwise, the sawdust either falls down and eventually gets sucked up, or still gets thrown off the saw. It's not as bad with the DC running, but not by much.

Anyone ever do this (plug the holes to increase suction)? Does it work?


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

HWK290 said:


> I cleaned up my table saw. It is full of small openings! I thought I might plug them with either the silver tape used in duct work or some sort of caulk. For the bigger ones I thought I would make cover plates out of aluminum. I thought this might increase the suction. Otherwise, the sawdust either falls down and eventually gets sucked up, or still gets thrown off the saw. It's not as bad with the DC running, but not by much.
> 
> Anyone ever do this (plug the holes to increase suction)? Does it work?


A couple of years ago I went through my table saw and plugged the gaps where the base met the top, put a magnetic sheet over the blade tilt slot, put in a sloping floor, drilled 3 more holes in the access door. Last June I had to take the saw apart to fix an arbor problem, and could not believe the amount of accumulated sawdust! Without a monster DC I think it is a waste of time.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

you actually want a lot of those vent holes...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

More air flow means less sawdust sticks around. Also use dry lube to help keep it from sticking so badly.


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

_A couple of years ago I went through my table saw and plugged the gaps where the base met the top, put a magnetic sheet over the blade tilt slot, put in a sloping floor, drilled 3 more holes in the access door. Last June I had to take the saw apart to fix an arbor problem, and could not believe the amount of accumulated sawdust! Without a monster DC I think it is a waste of time._

I have a DC that I can hook up to the table saw. I thought sealing it up would increase flow at the throat plate. Right now, it draws air from all the holes. Seems like it needs to be sealed up to just draw air (and sawdust) from where the cutting happens.


_you actually want a lot of those vent holes..._

Why? Seems like the opening where the blade angle adjuster is (it's harder to seal up, so I thought I'd leave it) would let in enough air.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

closing up the holes restricts/cuts down the air flow (FPM)...
air flow is what you want... 
if your DC is doing a poor job of removing sawdust; you have inadequate airflow...


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## HWK290 (Sep 2, 2019)

So I looked at getting a Wynn filter. It states I should get a 17.5" diameter one, even though my DC has a 15" OD. Did I miss something? I made sure I answered the questions about size correctly, by the way!

Also, what else do I need? I couldn't download the instructions to see how it's installed.

I currently have the DC hooked up to my table saw. Works fairly well; I get a little dust on the saw, but there doesn't seem to be much dust settling on anything a day or so later. I use my router outside and wear a dust mask.

I have a Leigh dovetail jig. I was thinking of getting the Leigh attachment that sucks up dust, but thought it might impede my vision. People seem to like it, though. Anyone have this jig with the dust collection attachment? Does it impede vision at all?


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## Frank Kerman (Feb 2, 2020)

I have also the same problem regarding dust and suffering from cough.


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