# Makita 3 1/4 Model 3612BR



## sawstop (Oct 19, 2006)

Hello 
Does any one know of any after market Base replacment for the Older Makita 3 1/4 Hp router Model 3612BR that would allow me to use larger 3.5" raised panel bits?

Thanks
Dan


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Dan, I think you will need to build your own for this.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi sawshop/Dan

If you can't use the 3 1/2" bits now, you may want to think about Vertical bits.
Or you can use a Fly Cutter to open it up to 3 5/8" .

http://www.grizzly.com/products/h7537
http://www.grizzly.com/products/h5935
-----------------

Vertical, below
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2725-raised-panels-quick-easy.html
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/3111-horz-router.html
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/3014-new-toy.html

Just a side note**** the panel bits don't need to go into the base of the router and because the panel bits always need to be used on a router table you can make spacer to drop the router down just a bit so the bits can spin free just below the top on the router table. 
1/2" thick should work fine for a spacer but the mounting plate for the router must be made bigger so the bit can spin also.

Bj


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## sawstop (Oct 19, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi sawshop/Dan
> 
> If you can't use the 3 1/2" bits now, you may want to think about Vertical bits.
> Or you can use a Fly Cutter to open it up to 3 5/8" .
> ...


Thanks Guys
I had thought of a simple base that had 2 holes to except the plunge post but would like the bases to be interchangeable but may require too much to do so but have not ruled it out yet.

I was originally going to use a Vertical bit but was able to get the Freud raised panel with back cutter for very good price but the Vertical bit s are not so expensive & it would get me going until I buy a new router.

I plan on setting up the 3.5" panel cutter in the table & setting the stop on the router to restrict the cutter from coming in contact with the base & will look at your Idea of using a spacer at that time.

Thanks again Guys

Dan


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Dan, can you provide a photo of your base with the sub base plate removed? A bottom view?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Here's a good shot of one 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Makita-3612BR-P...ryZ46584QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

http://cgi.ebay.com/Makita-Plunge-R...ryZ20781QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Bj


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Thanks BJ. Dan, while it might be possible to use a collet extender and a thick spacer to allow you to use horizontal panel raising bits with your router I would recommend against it. You are far better off using a vertical panel raising bit for safety's sake. These bits cost less, require less power, and are safer to use. Build an extended vertical fence or consider building a horizontal table like this: http://www.routerforums.com/30706-post1.html


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## sawstop (Oct 19, 2006)

OK I will get a picture tonight.

Dan


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## sawstop (Oct 19, 2006)

aniceone2hold said:


> Dan, can you provide a photo of your base with the sub base plate removed? A bottom view?



Here are some photo's of the Makita 3 1/4 HP Model 3612BR Base.
Dan


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

Just my 2 cents, I don't see why not just make a new base, it will take some work but why not.

Get some 1/2" plastic and glue on some rings to hold the the rods and some Allen bolts and lock nuts, not the roll pins they will crack the plastic rings when you try and drive them in..
The glue that works best for plastic is called Weld-On.
You can drill and tap the mounting holes that's no big deal.

http://www.rplastics.com/plac.html?gclid=CNj2muDw7IgCFSRjWAoduwcJpQ

Bj


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Another excellent idea BJ. What do you think Dan?


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## sawstop (Oct 19, 2006)

Yes I think I should look into doing something like that maybe with UHMW.

I saw the same router all beat up at a local second hand shop in the summer that had a broken base but was still functional wish I bought it now I would have cut the opening to accommodate the 3.5" raised panel bit. : (


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan

You may want to read the link b/4 you use the UHMW almost nothing will stick to it.

Gluing UHMW
http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=jigs&file=articles_586.shtml

Bj


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## sawstop (Oct 19, 2006)

Thanks for the heads up. 
It only makes sense that glue might not stick well on UHMW
I will go by the plastic shop in town & look around.

One other thought I just came up with last night trying to get to sleep is ordering a new base if it is not outrageously priced because I do have a stripped mounting hole for the base plate.
Then I could modify the base I have now & have a virgin base for when I need to use the OEM Makita guide bushings.

Dan


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dan 

I think I would stick with the plastic  BUT hears one more ideal pickup some 1" thick plastic drill out the center hole and the mouting holes then drill out the holes for the plunge rods then just drill the holes for the roll pins drive them into place and your done without using any glue  1" x 9" x 9" acrylic plastic should work just fine for this one.
Also, I think I would pickup the item(s) below just in case you need to get the bit higher in the router table. 

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_collet.html

Bj


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## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

I kinda hate to say this guys but wouldn't it be quicker & easier to simply build a horizontal router table ? I built mine over a weekend & there are many useful machining functions in addition to using vertical panel raising bits. ie: as a jointer, sliding dovetails, morticing, to name a few.

Lee


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Lee

Please take a snapshot of your new Horz. router table and I will show you mine  LOL

Bj


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Dan, now you know why so few members have only one router. I love flea markets and used tool stores.


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## sawstop (Oct 19, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Dan
> 
> I think I would stick with the plastic  BUT hears one more ideal pickup some 1" thick plastic drill out the center hole and the mouting holes then drill out the holes for the plunge rods then just drill the holes for the roll pins drive them into place and your done without using any glue  1" x 9" x 9" acrylic plastic should work just fine for this one.
> Also, I think I would pickup the item(s) below just in case you need to get the bit higher in the router table.
> ...


This is how I will probably do it if I make one.
Another thing I thought of is ordering a new replacement base then I could modify the base I have now.
But there is still the Horizontal panel bit that will do fine until I buy a new router.\
I am thinking of the Bosch 3.25 HP Electronic Plunge Router model 1619EVS

Dan


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## sawstop (Oct 19, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Lee
> 
> Please take a snapshot of your new Horz. router table and I will show you mine  LOL
> 
> Bj


Yup I know.
I am just getting back into woodworking after being away from it for along time.
Still trying to get my shop built.
So far still waiting for Geo-study that the city makes us do now after a house caved into an old mine shaft.
All I have so far is the plans have been drawn up for a 20'x36' 10' tall inside walls.
At this point I have to set things outside to do anything as I speak I have a Drill press standing behind me in my computer room among many other tools.
Our west coast weather does not give us many dry days during the winter.
Soon I keep telling myself.     :'(  
Dan


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## dave142 (Nov 22, 2007)

I know this topic is old now, but can someone explain this thread to me (a novice) 



> Does any one know of any after market Base replacment for the Older Makita 3 1/4 Hp router Model 3612BR that would allow me to use larger 3.5" raised panel bits?


I have the same router. What is the problem with 3.5" raised bits? they don't fit in the 1/2" collet? Why do you need a different base to use these?  
Thanks for helping.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This is the first that I have seen of this post and I am amazed that the definitive advice to buy a vertical cutter was not given, only suggested by one member. The router in question has a 2 3/4" opening and increasing this to accommodate a 3 1/2" cutter would remove the ability to use template guides apart from the time and effort required for an unknown result.
I'm not surprised Dave that the thread puzzled you.


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## dave142 (Nov 22, 2007)

> The router in question has a 2 3/4" opening and increasing this to accommodate a 3 1/2" cutter


sorry for a very dumb question but I don't even get what... 2 3/4 opening is. Does that mean the hole for the router bit to go in? Im confused, its inches we are talking?




> I'm not surprised Dave that the thread puzzled you


I don't tend to understand much of the technical stuff on these threads, if I try and make something I usually end up just trying to work out my own way, because I don't get it. lol


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## cbsjoez1935 (Mar 14, 2007)

Dave,

Don't dispair. The terminology of 2-3/4" opening refers to the hole in your baseplate, where the router bit slips through. Obviously, a 3-1/4" panel bit is not going to fit through a 2-3/4" opening. You are going to have to obtain or make another base plate for your router that has an opening large enough for the router bit to fit through.

Joe Z.


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## dave142 (Nov 22, 2007)

oh right..  thanks for explaining that. 
I don't know why you couldn't fully plunge the router in, then fit the cutter but I am sure there is a reason or this thread would not exist.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Dave, you certainly can do that but as has been suggested by I think bobj3, for safety, a spacer should be fitted to prevent the router from slipping down and opening up the hole in the base should the lock lever fail to grip.


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## safetyguy (Nov 21, 2016)

I have a Makita 3612 BR that I use with large panel bits. First off you will need to use an accessory speed controller to be able to swing these large bits at a slower and safe speed. Then, remove the plastic base from the router base. Make a home made base of adequate thickness (1/4", 1/2', or 3/4" Plywood or tempered Masonite. Be sure to cut the opening big enough to give at least an eighth inch clearance between the bit and your home made base. Attach this new base to the aluminum router base with longer screws. This has been working for me for years.
P.S. making your base elongated and attaching a handle, like you see in some catalogs, will give you greater control. Feed slowly and be careful, as these large bits are only supposed to be used in a router table. But this method works well when you cannot use a table.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This is of course a VERY old thread but for anyone still following it, raised panels should not be routed by hand held router, but on a router table or shaper. Even on a router table I don't feel happy with a huge block of steel whizzing round at speed. As I mentioned in an earlier post, a VERTICAL raised panel bit is my choice and they are available in several profiles.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Hi Safety Guy and welcome. Even the manufacturers say Do not use handheld once a bit goes over about 2.5 inches or about 60 mm.


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