# large-ish (0.5" - 1" radius) bead & cove / flute and bead bits



## carl0s (Jan 5, 2013)

Hi. I am hoping to start a project to make a barrel sauna (like this one): 










The construction of the outside is "bead and cove", much like how canoes can be constructed.

I can only find router bits intended for canoes though - 1/8" cut radius, which I imagine to be suitable for 1/4" thick wood. I expect to be using around 1" thick wood (not decided yet, although that commercial one above is apparently built with 1.5" thick cedar, but that's very expensive).

I think I need bead & cove bits with a cut radius of 0.5", for the 1" thick wood.

Any ideas where I can get some, or alternative thoughts?

Thanks,
Carl


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## carl0s (Jan 5, 2013)

According to this youtube video/advert, I may have found them! :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k6RvHivL3pE

Well, nearly. That's up to 3/8" radius, which is a big step in the right direction. Might just do actually.


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## carl0s (Jan 5, 2013)

Actually, this will be better - 3/4" radius, designed for 1.5" thick wood.

kempston

can't find stock anywhere though


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## carl0s (Jan 5, 2013)

Gotcha! : 

1-pc 1/2" SH 3/4" Rad. Half Round Bull Nose Router Bit | eBay

That's half the problem solved


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

carl0s said:


> Gotcha! :
> 
> 1-pc 1/2" SH 3/4" Rad. Half Round Bull Nose Router Bit | eBay
> 
> That's half the problem solved


Hi Carlos - Unfortunately I think you found the easy half of the equation. You may need to start looking for core box or ball end bits to get that large of a radius. Just how large a stock are you looking at using? 38-40 mm seems a bit much. 

Here is one with a large enough radius but will not give you a full 180° flute
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5020-edge-fluting-router-bits.aspx#sf


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

A bull nose and rounded end bit like a core box would work. A round over on a router table would work too. If you go with the bull nose and core box I would consider going for a slightly larger diameter than the boards are thick. This would avoid the tendency of the bull nose to leave fillets here and there as thickness fluctuates. It would also keep the edges of the concave from the core box of being very thin at the tips and therefore splitting or breaking off. The bits just have to match each other, they don't have to match the thickness of the board.


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## carl0s (Jan 5, 2013)

Thanks guys. I went with this in the end (ordered last night) : 1pc 1/2" SH 3/4" Rad, 1" Blade Cove Box Router Bit | eBay

which is fine but it's sort of top-down, no bearing/support at the bottom.

I was initially thinking 1.5" thick stock, but planed a little thinner than that, so yes, these tools should be over-sized for that wood which will give the cut without fragile edges I hope.

I have never touched a router before (actually I lie.. I routed out the electronics pocket of an electric guitar body when I was younger, but that's all), so I may be being totally unrealistic with my plans but it's something to do anyway.

Thanks for your help.

cheers,
Carl


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

carl0s said:


> Thanks guys. I went with this in the end (ordered last night) : 1pc 1/2" SH 3/4" Rad, 1" Blade Cove Box Router Bit | eBay
> 
> which is fine but it's sort of top-down, no bearing/support at the bottom.
> 
> ...


Hi Carl - you know that both those bits should be run on a table at a somewhat reduced speed for safety.


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## carl0s (Jan 5, 2013)

jschaben said:


> Hi Carl - you know that both those bits should be run on a table at a somewhat reduced speed for safety.


I do now - thank you


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