# Cutting a taper on a 3" blank



## drummy (Jun 20, 2013)

Getting ready to try to make a oak table. The legs call for a taper from 3" down to 2" on 2 sides. I ran a practice price to see what I needed to do and this is what I found out. Using my table saw and a taper jig the cut went well but my blade could not go high enough to cut all the way through the blank. I used my band saw the finish it.
My question is, is there a better way to do this? Should I just use the band saw? Should I try to flip it over in the taper jig and run it through the table saw again?
Advice need.
Thanks


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You could do them all on the bandsaw. There are lots of woodworkers who would head to it first. You have a jointer to clean the cuts up either way. You could use a different style taper jig to do it on the TS since a 10" saw usually cuts 3 1/8 inches. I am assuming that with the jig you are using the leg sits on top of the jig. You can make one where the leg sits on the TS table and the jig just holds one end 1" farther away from the fence. It would need a projection at the back end (a hook or a stop) to keep the leg from slipping and also to help push the leg through the blade. Whatever you think would work best for you. There is no real right way or wrong way just a variety of different ways. Besides the ways it can be done with hand tools, I can think of a way to do it with a planer too but it would be a little slower than the bandsaw or table saw.


----------



## drummy (Jun 20, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> You could do them all on the bandsaw. There are lots of woodworkers who would head to it first. You have a jointer to clean the cuts up either way. You could use a different style taper jig to do it on the TS since a 10" saw usually cuts 3 1/8 inches. I am assuming that with the jig you are using the leg sits on top of the jig. You can make one where the leg sits on the TS table and the jig just holds one end 1" farther away from the fence. It would need a projection at the back end (a hook or a stop) to keep the leg from slipping and also to help push the leg through the blade. Whatever you think would work best for you. There is no real right way or wrong way just a variety of different ways. Besides the ways it can be done with hand tools, I can think of a way to do it with a planer too but it would be a little slower than the bandsaw or table saw.


Your correct about the jig base, it is 3/4. Think I'll use the table saw method where the leg sits on the table.
Thank you


----------



## markristow (May 30, 2011)

I recently had the same problem and decided to investigate and perfect using the jointer to cut the taper. I was using a really hard wood and the technique worked well. There are many online description on how to do this and it is well worth learning.


----------



## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

A Cabinetmaker, like me, would make a box and run them past the Table saw, the box would leave them a small amount over size and then- I would use a hand plane with a sharp blade to clean them up and get them to size, if you were worried about planning them too much then you could make a box for that too. NGM


----------



## drummy (Jun 20, 2013)

markristow said:


> I recently had the same problem and decided to investigate and perfect using the jointer to cut the taper. I was using a really hard wood and the technique worked well. There are many online description on how to do this and it is well worth learning.


Thanks for the info. Don't have a jointer yet but been looking at a Grizzly jointer/planer.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Sorry Sherwood, when I looked at your profile I saw "joiner" and assumed that's what you have. Is that a biscuit joiner? You'll find that having jointing and planing capability is a real game changer.


----------



## drummy (Jun 20, 2013)

Thanks
Just made a jig for the fence with back end hook and ran 2 through. Worked great.
Thanks again


----------

