# Santa's present: Work Sharp 3000



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Well, Mrs. Claus ws pretty generous this year. She brought a new Work Sharp 3000. It has a number of glass disks and small parts so I made this stand for it. It is distorted a bit by the WA lens, but it fits nicely. (I like the red knobs. Its a theme).

Got out my worst crap chisel and brought it back to better than new condition. The first run through I discovered that it was cutting at a small angle so the edge wasn't square. Very minor adjustment fixed that (a small engineers square for checking lives in one of the drawers.

It is so much easier than digging out all the sandpaper, glass and other sharpening stuff. I have a bunch of stuff to sharpen and looking forward to it now.

This little case is actually pretty precise. Two drawers on the bottom hold all the packages of stuff. For example, the polishing rouge for the leather strop.

One other thing in there you will want is a Robert Larsen blade angle gauge. I realized I had no idea of the blade angles on any of my plane irons or the chisels for that matter. Setting the grinding angle is easy and the angle is displayed in a small window on the side.

One other thing is that the glass disks that sit in the slots are held in by the bar that foes across the front. It screws into a threaded insert on the left side. 

There is a grinding area under the right, back side of the disk, so I left that open. Normally I leave jigs unfinished, but since this does kick out some metal grindings, I may just do a simple finish on it to keep it from staining.

I'm using my planes and chisels far more often these days, so I'm going to put this to good use.

I highly recommend this gadget, although the sandpaper and glass block work fine, this is so easy you'll be less tempted to use a dull blade rather than dig all that sharpening gear out for a single chisel or iron.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

nice score Tom...


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Good on Mrs. Claus.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

old55 said:


> Good on Mrs. Claus.


I support her art and sewing, she supports my woodworking. I think she likes me being around, but not under foot. I figure that we've spent as much on her quilting and art as I have on tools. I have done a ton of improvements on the house over the last 14 years and she got her new kitchen last year. Nifty lady.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DesertRatTom said:


> Well, Mrs. Claus ws pretty generous this year. She brought a new Work Sharp 3000. It has a number of glass disks and small parts so I made this stand for it. It is distorted a bit by the WA lens, but it fits nicely. (I like the red knobs. Its a theme).
> 
> Got out my worst crap chisel and brought it back to better than new condition. The first run through I discovered that it was cutting at a small angle so the edge wasn't square. Very minor adjustment fixed that (a small engineers square for checking lives in one of the drawers.
> 
> ...


Good show Tom, sharp tools are a pleasure to use. 
Does it take long to sharpen a chisel, or plane blade? That is my complaint with most systems is the time it takes to do one.. I bought a Worksharp around 3 years ago and it is still sitting in the cupboard never used. I use a lapidary wheel and it is fast.

Herb


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

I know you'll be happy with it Tom, I know I was when mine arrived. Never had a decent sharp blade before. Now all my plane irons and chisels are spot on.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> Good show Tom, sharp tools are a pleasure to use.
> Does it take long to sharpen a chisel, or plane blade? That is my complaint with most systems is the time it takes to do one.. I bought a Worksharp around 3 years ago and it is still sitting in the cupboard never used. I use a lapidary wheel and it is fast.
> 
> Herb[/QUOItTE]
> ...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Is that the 3000 you have Tom?

Herb


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## waynecochran (Aug 2, 2011)

You should check out stumpynubs.com. He has plans for the 3000 that is pretty handy.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

I've used one at Mike's and was very impressed with it. I bought some chisels at a yard sale and some of them looked like they have been used on nails!! Should have taken before/after pics as they came out better than new.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> Is that the 3000 you have Tom?
> 
> Herb


Yes it is. It is the better choice of the two models.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

waynecochran said:


> You should check out stumpynubs.com. He has plans for the 3000 that is pretty handy.


I saw that but chose to do a different build. There is a portion of the wheel for grinding that's under the right hand side of the machine, which is not available in Stumpy's design. I like storing the glass disks vertically and use the horizontal bar to keep them in.

I'm thinking of putting handles on the side so I can move it around for storage more easily. I was surprised how small this tool is. With all its components, you do need some sort of case to keep it organized. I will be using a permanent marker on the edge to identify the grits on each side of the disk. 

One little discovery, with my already sharp tools, I'm going to start with a medium grit. It takes a lot of grinding to work out all the score marks from the rough grit. You can also use adhesive backed sandpaper and use an exacto knife to trim it to size, Considerably cheaper and you can use some of the new material that lasts longer. You can use a heat gun (carefully) to remove the worn paper disk more easily.


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## Northerner26 (Jan 2, 2010)

i really screwed up a few years ago when Work Sharp made a mistake and posted the wrong price on the 3000 when they first came out but they honored the price so i bought one and got money hungry and sold it for a HUGE profit and now im into woodworking a lot more now and i so regret not having that tool in my shop!

20/20 really sucks sometimes!

Tom, i really like your little work bench you made for your 3000


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Northerner said:


> i really screwed up a few years ago when Work Sharp made a mistake and posted the wrong price on the 3000 when they first came out but they honored the price so i bought one and got money hungry and sold it for a HUGE profit and now im into woodworking a lot more now and i so regret not having that tool in my


I know what you mean about regretting selling something and wishing I hadn't. The difference between sharp and not is huge. Bite the bullet and get one of these things, Makes working with planes and chisels a pleasure instead of a chore.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Northerner said:


> i really screwed up a few years ago when Work Sharp made a mistake and posted the wrong price on the 3000 when they first came out but they honored the price so i bought one and got money hungry and sold it for a HUGE profit and now im into woodworking a lot more now and i so regret not having that tool in my


I know what you mean about regretting selling something and wishing I hadn't. The difference between sharp and not is huge. Bite the bullet and get one of these things, Makes working with planes and chisels a pleasure instead of a chore.


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## Programer (Jan 10, 2015)

I have the 3000 and love it. Easy to use and does a good job.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Programer said:


> I have the 3000 and love it. Easy to use and does a good job.


I am almost on the verge of getting mine out and seeing what I am missing. 
I like sharp tools and don't like the chore of sharpening. Now if they were fun to sharpen that is a different story.

Kind of like a couple of years ago I bought a used roll around off craigs list and it had no less than 3000 miscellanious drill bits in it all mixed up. They were sizes 1/16th-1"+ . all needed sharpening,twist drills, spade bits,auger bits brad point,it took 10 days to sort for sizes.

I bought a Drill doctor and started sharping,and it was fun and didn't take too long , now I have a lifetime supply of drill bits, all sharp ready to go. 

Herb


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> I saw that but chose to do a different build. There is a portion of the wheel for grinding that's under the right hand side of the machine, which is not available in Stumpy's design. I like storing the glass disks vertically and use the horizontal bar to keep them in.
> 
> I'm thinking of putting handles on the side so I can move it around for storage more easily. I was surprised how small this tool is. With all its components, you do need some sort of case to keep it organized. I will be using a permanent marker on the edge to identify the grits on each side of the disk.
> 
> One little discovery, with my already sharp tools, I'm going to start with a medium grit. It takes a lot of grinding to work out all the score marks from the rough grit. You can also use adhesive backed sandpaper and use an exacto knife to trim it to size, Considerably cheaper and you can use some of the new material that lasts longer. You can use a heat gun (carefully) to remove the worn paper disk more easily.


Funny you should post this, as I too, am building a stand (ala Stumpy Nubbs with modifications). I wanted to have everything in one spot, so the stand was the logical choice for a busy project now that it is cool enough to comfortably work in the garage.

So armed with a bunch of shop scrap (3/4" oak, birch, and 1/4" scraps) I tossed this together. 

Unlike you, I prefer to store the spare discs horizontally. I solved the retention problem with a dowel run down through the finger pulls. I figured that sooner or later I would move it, tip it forward, and end up with a mess on the floor with the possibly of a broken disc or two. At $20 apiece, not good! I, also, added magnets in cups to the drawer to prevent it from falling open/out. 

I have plenty of storage and the next project is to cut out some new MDF discs for stropping with different polishing compounds. I hate working with MDF and don't keep it around, so, I have to scrounge a small piece of 1/2" for the discs.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Thats one helluva toss Bill!!!! Nice!

If I ever bring my 3000 out of moth balls, definately the way to go...


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

You musta been a good boy all year to get a present like that, Tom. All I got was a lump of anthracite... (and a few chocolates)


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

TenGees said:


> You musta been a good boy all year to get a present like that, Tom. All I got was a lump of anthracite... (and a few chocolates)


My thoughts exactly, but, then, we are all nice on this forum.....


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

schnewj said:


> Funny you should post this, as I too, am building a stand (ala Stumpy Nubbs with modifications). I wanted to have everything in one spot, so the stand was the logical choice for a busy project now that it is cool enough to comfortably work in the garage.
> 
> So armed with a bunch of shop scrap (3/4" oak, birch, and 1/4" scraps) I tossed this together.
> 
> ...


I understand your preference, and I'm going to put some magnets in the drawers to hold them closed. That's a good idea. I do suggest that you put the disks on the right side of the unit. One of the sharpening surfaces is under the disk on the right underside of the disk. If you put the disk stack on that side, you no longer have access there. The good thing about Stumpy's design is that you can have a flat area for a sharpening guide for really wide blades. 

On my vertical storage, the bottom of each slot has a curved holder the disk rests in. I'm also putting handles on the side so I can move it easily. It will be stored on a shelf a bit out of the way in a corner. It is all about getting out and working fast, and both solutions do that. Nifty machine, isn't it?


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> I am almost on the verge of getting mine out and seeing what I am missing.
> I like sharp tools and don't like the chore of sharpening. Now if they were fun to sharpen that is a different story.
> 
> Kind of like a couple of years ago I bought a used roll around off craigs list and it had no less than 3000 miscellanious drill bits in it all mixed up. They were sizes 1/16th-1"+ . all needed sharpening,twist drills, spade bits,auger bits brad point,it took 10 days to sort for sizes.
> ...


Funny, I got my drill doctor out after years of gathering dust while I was making this. Needed a long bit and it was very dull. Not any more. Both the Drill Doctor and the Work Sharp are built by the same company, and both are a pleasure to use. I'm digging out everything I can sharpen for a weekend sharpening orgy.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> I understand your preference, and I'm going to put some magnets in the drawers to hold them closed. That's a good idea. I do suggest that you put the disks on the right side of the unit. One of the sharpening surfaces is under the disk on the right underside of the disk. If you put the disk stack on that side, you no longer have access there. The good thing about Stumpy's design is that you can have a flat area for a sharpening guide for really wide blades.
> 
> On my vertical storage, the bottom of each slot has a curved holder the disk rests in. I'm also putting handles on the side so I can move it easily. It will be stored on a shelf a bit out of the way in a corner. It is all about getting out and working fast, and both solutions do that. Nifty machine, isn't it?


Tom, I'm not sure what you mean about the access to the right side. The design allows for access if you have to get there (see Photo). It has a couple of bosses like the ones for the bar on the top left. However, there is no way to get the bar attached to the ones below the plate on the right side. I don't know why you would want to use this anyway. I may be missing something. Maybe free-handing lathe tools with the slotted disc? If so, it is still accessible.

Yes, it is a nifty tool. I have some improvements in mind to help eliminate the sandpaper disc materials. I'll wait until I have a chance to experiment and then report at a later time if I'm successful.

I, also, thought about handles, but decided against it due to my having to place them at the bottom...puts the CG too high and makes it top heavy. I may reconsider later.


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

When I got my first plane, a Stanley no.4, I tried using it straight away and it dug in so much I ended up putting it away.

I then found out they don't come sharp! Hey, what'd I know? Not that anyways.

I also had some chisels and they had dulled over time. Then I saw the WS3000. The offer came with the knife sharpener (which I'm yet to try in ernest) so I asked :big_boss: and, as usual when I ask about buying a new tool, he said yes.

When it arrived I sharpened everything. Chisels, no4 plane, block plane. OMG thank the inventors of this because there and then I found the joy of using a hand plane and a sharp chisel.

The initial sharpen of the plane blade took a while but now it's a simple case of touching it up regularly which takes a few minutes including getting the machine set up on the bench.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

vindaloo said:


> The initial sharpen of the plane blade took a while but now it's a simple case of touching it up regularly .


vindaloo can be counted among those who get it!! :grin::grin:


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

schnewj said:


> Tom, I'm not sure what you mean about the access to the right side. The design allows for access if you have to get there (see Photo). It has a couple of bosses like the ones for the bar on the top left. However, there is no way to get the bar attached to the ones below the plate on the right side. I don't know why you would want to use this anyway. I may be missing something. Maybe free-handing lathe tools with the slotted disc? If so, it is still accessible.


Using the slotted disk is the reason you would use that area. You have to grind counter clock wise on the disk, so that area is where you would have to do it. 

The thing I do like about your design is the flat top parallel to the disk. If it is set up just right (using washers of various thicknesses to level the top ply piece with the disk top), you could use a sharpening jig pretty easily. I'd want to make sure that the platform was as close to level as possible or the blade would be canted. My machine sits on a removable platform, and the four tie down points drop down into threaded inserts so I can fiddle with washers pretty easily. Just use longer 1/4 x 20 bolts.

The other option is an attachment that goes on the left side of the machine. Work Sharp Wide Blade Attachment for WS3000. Gee, another opportunity to spend money. At this time I don't have any extra wide blades to worry about, but I see how I can get a piece across the gap for wide blades. Here's a video of it in use. 



 This item includes the flat insert, the honing jig and a small jig for determining the angle, and then the extension distance for cutting that angle. Pretty neat and about the cost of a good honing jig alone. 

Nice discussion. Fun to come up with all kinds of solutions.

The high center of gravity problem. We could attach one handle high, the other lower. They don't have to be at the same height.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

_ Originally Posted by vindaloo View Post

The initial sharpen of the plane blade took a while but now it's a simple case of touching it up regularly ._


Yup. I keep a diamond sharpening stone around. About 4-6 strokes and the edge is back. Or a swipe or two with the 3600 and 6000 grit disks. 

Amazing the difference a really sharp blade makes. I love how easy it is to shave off a rough edge or groove, or hinge mortise, or... you get the idea.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

TenGees said:


> You musta been a good boy all year to get a present like that, Tom. All I got was a lump of anthracite... (and a few chocolates)


Without waxing too philosophical, my wife and I have come to see the what works is to be a good man in the world, and a little bit of a bad boy at home.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

DesertRatTom said:


> _ Originally Posted by vindaloo View Post
> 
> The initial sharpen of the plane blade took a while but now it's a simple case of touching it up regularly ._
> 
> ...


There is just something about a well tuned plane... that until you get one in your hands and actually feel and 'hear' what its like, there's nothing else in the shop that compares....


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> My thoughts exactly, but, then, we are all nice on this forum.....


:grin:According to my wife, she loves that I make her laugh (not at my projects, by the way).


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> Using the slotted disk is the reason you would use that area. You have to grind counter clock wise on the disk, so that area is where you would have to do it.
> 
> The thing I do like about your design is the flat top parallel to the disk. If it is set up just right (using washers of various thicknesses to level the top ply piece with the disk top), you could use a sharpening jig pretty easily. I'd want to make sure that the platform was as close to level as possible or the blade would be canted. My machine sits on a removable platform, and the four tie down points drop down into threaded inserts so I can fiddle with washers pretty easily. Just use longer 1/4 x 20 bolts.
> 
> ...


I, agree, good discussion. 

I don't have a lathe, so, I have never had to use the "back side" of the 3000. However, I still have access to do so with the slotted wheel if needed. The access may be somewhat restricted on the left side, but I believe it would be do-able.

The platform for the Stumpy design was the reason that I decided to go with it. I refurbish and use hand planes. Coupled with a Veritas Mk II, I can quickly reshape/sharpen a plane iron to the point that most of the work is done. I can then refine the edge further if I wish to do so with my stones.

I, too, used threaded inserts and 1/4 x 20's. This allowed me to fine-tune the Worksharp to the platform. I can't slip a .003" feeler gauge under a straight edge. So, I feel that it is "good enough for the girl I go with". 

You're right about the handles. I could go high on the right hand side which would work. However, personally, I have chosen not to add handles for now. That may change in the future, if the handling becomes awkward.

I can't see paying an outrageous price for an accessory to do wide blades. In the Stumpy video he used a Jet Sharpening System Bar. It is no longer being made, although it is still available from some outlets. This bar is 25% of the Worksharp attachment cost, and would be easy enough to make if needed. This would allow you to use Tormek type jigs. Again, another expensive proposition with other viable alternatives. A good honing jig and the platform is just as effective.

Bottom line...great tool with a variety of possible uses. You just have to decide what you need it to do for you.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Did a little research on the Wide blade attachment and found some not so nice comments. I think some of the negative feedback applies to any flat surface you might devise. Turns out that getting the wide blade attachment co planer is very difficult, and if you take it off, you will need to recalibrate and adjust it, which is not so easy.

It also turns out that you might have to do some micro adjusting when you change grit on the disk or change to a different glass disk with a thicker or thinner grit sanding disk. The co planer issue has to do with grinding the edge square. the height variations have to do with the grind angle. This would be less of an issue once the wide blade is basically sharp and you use only the finer grits to touch up. 

I think the Stumpy build handled this by adjusting the height of the bolts under the Work Sharp's feet.

Just thought we should be aware. The under wheel blade guide works for up to 2 inch wide blades, the wide blade attachment sharpening guide holds up to a 3 inch blade. At this time I only have one plane blade wider than 2 inches (#6).

I will still use the Work Sharp to flatten the back side of that blade, then old school after that since it is already pretty sharp.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> Did a little research on the Wide blade attachment and found some not so nice comments. I think some of the negative feedback applies to any flat surface you might devise. Turns out that getting the wide blade attachment co planer is very difficult, and if you take it off, you will need to recalibrate and adjust it, which is not so easy.
> 
> It also turns out that you might have to do some micro adjusting when you change grit on the disk or change to a different glass disk with a thicker or thinner grit sanding disk. The co planer issue has to do with grinding the edge square. the height variations have to do with the grind angle. This would be less of an issue once the wide blade is basically sharp and you use only the finer grits to touch up.
> 
> ...


Good information to know. I can see where the variables would affect the final outcomes. However, once you get the "rough in" done, I, like you, agree that the polishing end shouldn't be much of a problem. I don't care how exacting you are with whatever sharpening system you use, it will not be consistent nor exact sharpening to sharpening. Free handing is anything but exact, water stones are not always perfectly flat...you get the idea.

I have several systems available to me. I have an old (no longer made) Delta water stone. The horizontal stone is 220 grit and is perfect for rough flattening backs. I then move to water stones and/or oil stones for a mirror polish. I have, also, used the scary sharp method. All have their pros and cons. However, the WS3000 does a very quick job with little or no mess. 

Being able to use the top of the plate is an advantage on a plane blade. This is especially true if you are putting a camber on the ends. This is where I would use the Veritas Mk. II with the camber wheel. The angle of the camber is not super critical. It only has to round the end to prevent the blade from digging in and leaving a groove or a ridge. Easy enough to do.

My only complaint about the WS3000 is the cost of the discs. 6" disc are scarce in anything more then the rougher grits. Impossible to find 180 and above locally. That means mail order. I am working on an alternative that may be cost effective and have some longevity. More on that later.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@schnewj

I put the handles on this afternoon. Simple 1x2 cut length to the thickness of the case, trimmed off at an angle then rounded over with the block plane. Screwed and glued them on, one high, one low. I did it because when I tried to pick the thing up without handles, it was really heavy and awkward. The handles are really nice and make it much more manageable

As to the ultra fine grits, I thing you can buy adhesive backed sandpaper in those fine grits. Haven't found them yet, but in the instruction book they mention that you have to cut them to size. (I think the 6 inch disk is metric. I don't see much problem using an exacto knife to cut out the center hole. I bet you could use a light coating of "movable" spray adhesive. I don't use it enough to think I'll need to do that, but the option is open. 

It was too cold in the shop today to sharpen anything. Numb fingers and sharp chisels don't sound like a good mix. I have heat out there, but there was ice overnight and the heater really struggles to overcome it. Its warming up tomorrow so I'll have at it then. I'm going to do all the cheap chisels first. There seems to be a learning curve involved.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I'll be darned. Found some adhesive backed disks on Amazon, up to 2000 grit http://www.amazon.com/Sticky-Finish...20&sr=1-43&keywords=adhesive-backed+sandpaper

Here's another with even higher grits.
Results for 'Adhesive Backed Sandpaper'


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

@DesertRatTom

Try these links for discs

Online Industrial Supply Corporation - Sandpaper, Sanding Supplies, Abrasives, Sanding Discs, Sanding Belts, Sanding Sheets, Sanding Rolls

Micro-Mesh® Regular Discs

Home -MICRO-SURFACE FINISHING PRODUCTS, INC

There are plenty of sources for 6" discs...all the way from 120 up to the 3000-3600 or better micro mesh. The problem is that with shipping it could get pricey. The discs will end up averaging $1-2 a piece depending on how you buy. 

I'm working on an alternative that may be a cost effective solution. However it will be a few weeks to see if it is feasible. I'll certainly keep everyone informed.


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

Dang it Bill, you're killin' me! Now we have to wait a "few weeks" to hear more about your better mouse trap? (jk) No one has brought up Stumpy's idea of putting rouge on MDF disks. Has anyone on the forum given that a try?


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

Dang, sorry Bill I missed your description in post #18. Looking forward to seeing how that works out.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Ratbob said:


> Dang, sorry Bill I missed your description in post #18. Looking forward to seeing how that works out.


I have to get some 1/2 MDF before I try Stump's trick. Should work, though. One word of caution...polishing compound does just that, polishes. It does not really sharpen. If the tool isn't properly ground already, then no amount of "polishing" will bring it to an edge. 

I used to polish the edges on SS blade knives when I worked for Case Cutlery. They had to be properly honed first with a "wire" edge. Then I would polish the edge on a buffing wheel to eliminate the wire. If it didn't slice paper when I was done, it went back to be re-honed.

OK, I'll fess up...DMT has a diamond impregnated disc kit (Magna Hone). However, it is pretty pricey. You can purchase the magnetic disc from DMT that adheres to the glass WS3000 disc. I have, also, found a source for 1 mm thick Lapidary diamond plates that should work just like the DMT ones. However, they are much cheaper then the DMT discs and are available in 80 to 3000 grit. If the plates will work...then you are looking at around $22 for a mag disc and a single grit plate. Additional plates are about $14 each, The DMT kit is around $60-80 for two grits and the mag disc. So, ~$36 vs. the DMT price is appealing. Especially since subsequent plates can be purchased as needed.

The plates are touted as being equal to 50 sheets of sandpaper. So, at $1-2 a piece for the sandpaper, the plates are much cheaper in the long run.

I am going to order one and try it. If it works then I will publish the material sources for those on the forum that are interested.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Well, for those of you who may be interested in alternative sharpening media for the Worksharp 3000 I have put together a better cost alternative then what is presently offered commercially.

I’ll assume that everyone understands how the WS3000 is designed to function. 150mm (~6”) sandpaper PSA discs of varying grits are adhered to plate glass discs. The spinning discs then progressively “hone” an edge on your plane irons, chisels, and turning tools.

The Worksharp is basically the Scary Sharp method with the Worksharp doing most all of the movements.

The downside is that; the discs (120, 600, 1000, and 3600 grit) wear fairly quickly. Replacement can become pricy over a period of time. Replacement disc kits can be ordered directly from Darex. However, the lower grits can be found in the big box or local hardware stores, but, anything over 220 will be hard to find unless you go to a specialty store, like an auto body repair supplier or the internet.

Depending on the quantity/quality, the per-unit price can range from $0.35 to $2.00 a disc. The higher grits will be on the upper end of that range.
Now, there are a couple of alternatives. DMT sells a kit that consists of a diamond impregnated disc which is held in place on the glass disc via a PSA magnetic sheet.

https://www.dmtonlinestore.com/Magna-Disc-C9.aspx

This kit retails for approximately $80. Amazon or other vendors may be a little better on the price.

A second alternative is covered on the Stumpy Nubs YouTube channel. 

Worksharp 3000 

It consists of ½” thick MDF discs that are charged with different grits of polishing compounds. Essentially, you end up polishing an edge to sharpness. The problem here is that you have to have an edge already established to polish. This system is useless for removing nicks in the edge or establishing a ground angle on the tool. Great for a quick touch up but useless for repair or prep work.

Since I am fiscally frugal (read CHEAP) I researched a reasonably priced alternative. Since the DMT, i.e. diamond plate touts the plate as equal to 50 sandpaper discs it seemed the way to go. However, the price put me off so I looked for an alternative material source. 

Diamond plates are used in the lapidary trade. They are readily available in grits from 80-3000 grit and are available for a very reasonable cost. The 6” PSA sheet magnet can be purchased from DMT for $7.50 (plus shipping) or I found them at a magnetic sign company for $3.37 (plus shipping).

To experiment, I ordered a 6” 120 grit diamond plate with a ½” center hole. I then bought two 6”magnetic sheet magnets. One was 0.30” and the other 0.60” thick. They are designed for magnetic vehicle signs. I ended up using the thinner one, which more than adequately held the plate in place. The magnet was marked for the center hole location, punched with a ½” gasket punch, and stuck to a glass disc.

The disc was then installed on my WS3000 and an old plane iron was used for a guinea pig. 

The diamond plate functioned flawlessly. It was compared to the 120 grit sandpaper disc and there was no difference in the functionality.

The upside is that there was less heat build-up on the iron with the diamond plate, allowing for longer contact with the iron and the grinding surface. The per-unit cost of the disc is great in the long term. In addition, other plates can be purchased and swapped out as needed. Choose your grit and work away all with only one plate containing the magnetic sheet.

What was the final cost? Well, one plate and the magnetic sheet came out to less than $21. Additional plates can be had for around $15. So, compared to the DMT set, two grits and the magnetic sheet would be about $36 vs. $80 for the DMT set. Additionally, you have your choice of grits for $15 a plate if you want.
Now, go price a pack of 50, whatever grit, 6” PSA discs and make your decisions. 

I’ll be ordering more plates and probably a couple more magnetic sheets. The plates just need a backer, so, they could be attached to a MDF disc if you would want to do that.

If anyone is interested, PM me and I will supply the links to my sources.

As always, if there are any questions…ask away.

Here are some photos of the set-up.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

@schnewj

Thanks for all the research on this. I'm keeping a printout of this to see about getting that setup. I really like diamond plates for sharpening.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DesertRatTom said:


> @schnewj
> 
> Thanks for all the research on this. I'm keeping a printout of this to see about getting that setup. I really like diamond plates for sharpening.


 @DesertRatTom

I'll PM you tomorrow with links to the plate and magnet suppliers.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

schnewj said:


> @DesertRatTom
> 
> I'll PM you tomorrow with links to the plate and magnet suppliers.


I would like to know the suppliers too Bill if you would please PM me.

Thanks in advance,

Herb


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

Thanks for doing the leg work on this Bill, excellent find! Please PM the links!


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

schnewj said:


> @DesertRatTom
> 
> I'll PM you tomorrow with links to the plate and magnet suppliers.


Thank you. I'd really appreciate that!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> @DesertRatTom
> 
> I'll PM you tomorrow with links to the plate and magnet suppliers.


 @schnewj...

why not publish them...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> @schnewj...
> 
> why not publish them...


 @Cricket

I didn't think that the interest would be that great. In addition, I didn't want to violate any forum rules. DMT might be a sponsor and I wouldn't want to undermine the forum's position with a sponsor. However, if Admin has no issues with it I will publish the links.


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## Admin (Feb 13, 2012)

schnewj said:


> @Cricket
> 
> I didn't think that the interest would be that great. In addition, I didn't want to violate any forum rules. DMT might be a sponsor and I wouldn't want to undermine the forum's position with a sponsor. However, if Admin has no issues with it I will publish the links.


Thank you for checking with me.

Go ahead and post the links for this.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Cricket said:


> Thank you for checking with me.
> 
> Go ahead and post the links for this.


Thanks for the clarification, Cricket.

OK, guys, here is the information.

I purchased my magnets from a local (FL) company. In the interest of full disclosure they were a little slow getting them mailed out. They claimed that the severe weather we had last week shut their production line down. When I pushed the issue it was mailed out that day and I had it in three days.

There are two grades and sizes. Order the material that is used outside for vehicle signs. It comes in 0.30 and 0.60" thicknesses. I used the 0.030" and it holds just fine.

My price was $3.37 for the 0.030 and $5.52 for the 0.060. Shipping and FL tax added $3.13. The 0.060 was *NOT* used. Shop around but $3.37 plus shipping is probably a very good deal.

Medium Thickness

Description: 0.030 OD30-10 Peel n Stick, Outdoor Adhesive Magnet.

Now for the diamond plate(s). I bought mine off of eBay from a vendor called. JadeCarver.com. It was $14.50 which included the shipping. It was shipped from California and I had it in three days. They sell them on their website for $12 but I don't know what the shipping would be. If you are ordering more then one I would consider a direct purchase at $12 each and shipping. If you are only going to order one then Ebay may be the way to go. The plus side is these are made here and not offshore. They are available in 60-3000 grit.

6" Diamond Flat Lap Disk 60 80 120 180 260 360 600 1200 3000 Grits | eBay

http://jadecarver.com/catalog.pdf

So, the math says, around $20 for a magnet and one plate and around ~$12 plus shipping to $14.50 for each additional plate. A LOT less then $80 from DMT.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Thanks ,Bill. I am for sure checking into this.

Herb


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

I sent an email off to JadeCarver.com last night. I asked what was the most cost effective way to order (eBay or direct). The owner called me direct and we had a long chat. If you are ordering one or two plates then eBay is the way to go, for three or more plates they are, indeed, $12 and $5.50 for shipping. So, for three or more plates order direct.

The bad news is, the owner is leaving today for a trade show in Tuscon and won't be home for a couple of weeks. This will delay any orders that you may make.

I have been trying to access the MagnetKing.com website since last night. They are apparently is having trouble with their server. I would suggest calling the toll free number and ordering over the phone for now.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

schnewj said:


> I sent an email off to JadeCarver.com last night. I asked what was the most cost effective way to order (eBay or direct). The owner called me direct and we had a long chat. If you are ordering one or two plates then eBay is the way to go, for three or more plates they are, indeed, $12 and $5.50 for shipping. So, for three or more plates order direct.
> 
> The bad news is, the owner is leaving today for a trade show in Tuscon and won't be home for a couple of weeks. This will delay any orders that you may make.
> 
> I have been trying to access the MagnetKing.com website since last night. They are apparently is having trouble with their server. I would suggest calling the toll free number and ordering over the phone for now.


I ordered from both today and all went good. Magnet King is on it's way and shipping was only 6.10 for 7 disks. They changed their site to sell X6 min. for the thin ones. 
I wanted more than 1 of the lapping discs from Jade but didn't want to place 6 orders and his site would only accept 1 per order. so after many emails back and forth he changed his site to accept more than 1 per order, but he had already processed the original order I made so now I have 2 orders coming being shipped tomorrow.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> I ordered from both today and all went good. Magnet King is on it's way and shipping was only 6.10 for 7 disks. They changed their site to sell X6 min. for the thin ones.
> I wanted more than 1 of the lapping discs from Jade but didn't want to place 6 orders and his site would only accept 1 per order. so after many emails back and forth he changed his site to accept more than 1 per order, but he had already processed the original order I made so now I have 2 orders coming being shipped tomorrow.


David appears to be a reasonable person. Very nice to talk to on the phone. I'm sure that he would work something out for you on the double order. In any case. If they work well then, technically, you'll have spare plates when one eventually wears out.

He appears to be a one man operation and he is tied up with his trade show and out of town. I suspect, that, if it wasn't for the show interfering he would have corrected the double order immediately. 

Interesting about MagnetKing.com! I was having trouble accessing their website to order more. I finally got on and ordered three more. That was yesterday morning. All I can say, is at the price for the magnets so what! If you don't use them for the Worksharp they can be utilize on other projects in the shop.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

schnewj said:


> David appears to be a reasonable person. Very nice to talk to on the phone. I'm sure that he would work something out for you on the double order. In any case. If they work well then, technically, you'll have spare plates when one eventually wears out.
> 
> He appears to be a one man operation and he is tied up with his trade show and out of town. I suspect, that, if it wasn't for the show interfering he would have corrected the double order immediately.
> 
> Interesting about MagnetKing.com! I was having trouble accessing their website to order more. I finally got on and ordered three more. That was yesterday morning. All I can say, is at the price for the magnets so what! If you don't use them for the Work Sharp they can be utilize on other projects in the shop.


Both orders have been shipped and I am happy, I ordered one of each disc. I plan on putting one magnetic sheet on my 6" disc sander so I can use the courser grits on it and have the capability to switch to finer grits if I want to without having to peel the PSA disc off and ruining it in the process, The finer grits I will use on the Work Sharp.

Where do I get the glass discs for the Work Sharp? Do you use water on the diamond discs?

Herb


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Where do I get the glass discs for the Work Sharp? Do you use water on the diamond discs?
> 
> Herb


I ordered two additional plates off eBay. You can find them for $20-25 each. I got two for $39 with shipping. I'll never order from the vendor again. He had the listing for $19.95 or make an offer. I offered $18 each and he countered for $19.80 a whole .15¢ off. I returned a $19.50 just to be done with it, but it took him 5 days just to ship them out.

You might try cutting a MDF plate instead. All you really need is a stiff backer for the diamond plate. 

NO, no water.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

schnewj said:


> I ordered two additional plates off eBay. You can find them for $20-25 each. I got two for $39 with shipping. I'll never order from the vendor again. He had the listing for $19.95 or make an offer. I offered $18 each and he countered for $19.80 a whole .15¢ off. I returned a $19.50 just to be done with it, but it took him 5 days just to ship them out.
> 
> You might try cutting a MDF plate instead. All you really need is a stiff backer for the diamond plate.
> 
> NO, no water.


Thanks Bill, Good information. I was kind of thinking of the 1/2" MDF as a backer plate to mount the PSA magnet to. The reason I asked about water was it was mentioned in his catalog,but that was probably referring to cutting stone.
You are right about the price, I paid $15. more ordering 8 of them off ebay even with the free shipping than I I would have ordered them out of his catalog. My guess the difference is the ebay fee. But The order had already been filled by the time I read yours and didn't think about it at the time. 

Herb


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

All of the diamond sharpeners are formed on steel, add water and you get rust. To help remove the filings a very light oil designed for this purpose is the best solution. Trend offers a honing oil and a small eraser like pad for cleaning their diamond sharpeners. I use this on my credit card diamond sharpener and have been pleased with the results. I found these products at The Woodworking Shows.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Well the diamond discs arrived today and are they heavy. There were The 9 grits plus he threw in 2 extra,a 1200 and a 3000, that had some kind of marks on them that you have to look hard to find. I was expecting a very thin backing plate ,but these are thick and rigid stiff. The whole bunch must weigh several pounds. Still waiting on the rubber magnet discs.

Herb


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Well the diamond discs arrived today and are they heavy. There were The 9 grits plus he threw in 2 extra,a 1200 and a 3000, that had some kind of marks on them that you have to look hard to find. I was expecting a very thin backing plate ,but these are thick and rigid stiff. The whole bunch must weigh several pounds. Still waiting on the rubber magnet discs.
> 
> Herb


 @Herb Stoops

Herb, it's been a month...how are you liking the plates?

Mine have worked out great! It was well worth the initial cost for the set-up and will save money spent on sandpaper discs in the future.

I still haven't made any MDF discs, yet. However, I am thinking of adding a piece of leather to one and turn it into a stropping disc. I just have to get the motivation to go do it.

I'm surprised that none of the others, who expressed an interest, haven't provided any feedback. I guess they never pursued the set-up. Their loss, I guess.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

schnewj said:


> @Herb Stoops
> 
> Herb, it's been a month...how are you liking the plates?
> 
> ...


I'm happy with the WorkSharp disks and haven't popped for anything else so far. I just don't do enough sharpening to spend the bucks for the diamond disk setup. I have a couple of diamond blocks as shown above that I use for quick touchup sharpening (3-5 strokes and done), and the WS for more serious work. Glad you guys are posting on this topic. Interesting to read and a good idea for someone doing a lot of work. Sharp tools are such a pleasure to use.,


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

schnewj said:


> @Herb Stoops
> 
> Herb, it's been a month...how are you liking the plates?
> 
> ...


I am guilty too Bill, I have been working on other things too ,Bill,the interest is still there and I think about it when passing. 

Thanks for jogging my mind , I noticed my chisels were getting a ted dull the other day, about time I try it out.

I did get a piece of MDO to make extra discs , bot it is still sitting there.

I did knock one item off the list and started using the scroll saw more and am getting more comfortable with it. After talking with CharleyL here on the forum, one of my problems was I was going too fast had the wrong blade and was too impatient and was forcing the cut . Since I have corrected all of that somewhat, things are going better. 

Another item on the list , The Jerry Bowan carbide tipped bandsaw blade that I got thru Twoskies Bill, I had rewelded 105" to fit my band saw. When I went to put it on the saw a month later , I found it was too long. When I measured it 116", the guys tape measure was really off. So I was busy and I didn't want to drive the 35 mile round trip to his shop and drop it off to get it rewelded, and then the same trip to pick it up. Now that we have some sunny days I should do that.

Another is the Rockler router lift I got from DesertRat Tom, It is setting there waiting to be installed into my other router table, have to modify the top for it to fit.

As soon as I get the project I am working on now complete I will do the WorkSharp project ,it is at the top of the list.

Herb


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I am with you guys the WorkSharp 3000 makes me look good on sharping. 

Chisels and anything 2 inches or smaller is now sharp in my shop all the time.

I have a jack plane that needs sharping and is larger than 2 inches. What to do?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

coxhaus said:


> I am with you guys the WorkSharp 3000 makes me look good on sharping.
> 
> Chisels and anything 2 inches or smaller is now sharp in my shop all the time.
> 
> I have a jack plane that needs sharping and is larger than 2 inches. What to do?


Ask ,Bill or DesertRat Tom, they are the WorkSharp guys.

Herb


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

Yea I kind of know, but I have spent too much money on tools these last few weeks.

I think I will just free hand it.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

coxhaus said:


> I am with you guys the WorkSharp 3000 makes me look good on sharping.
> 
> Chisels and anything 2 inches or smaller is now sharp in my shop all the time.
> 
> I have a jack plane that needs sharping and is larger than 2 inches. What to do?


Lee, take a look at post #27 that Tom posted. Worksharp sells an attachment (overpriced in my opinion). Conversely, you can take the route that Tom and I took. We did take offs on the Stumpy Nubs design. (Stumpynubs.com).
Stumpy used a Tormek/Jet attachment on the stand he made. However, the Jet bar is no longer available. I just use a cheap sharpening jig and the platform. 

Utilizing that arrangement (see photos) you can sharpen any width blade on the WS3000.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

The above stand was made from leftover shop materials, and went together in a 1/2 day. 

I used 1/4-20 inserts/bolts in the platform base to adjust the WS to level and flush the platen to the top. The arrangement allows for storage of the extra platens, sandpaper discs, and miscellaneous items in the drawer. I used rare earth magnets on the drawer to keep it closed, and a simple dowel through the platen shelves to keep them from sliding out if the unit was carried/moved. Tom added handles to his sides for carrying ease.

Lee, it doesn't have to be elaborate. A simple platform with a top, level with the platen should do the trick for you.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I really like your design and setup. I am just so limited in space in my shop. I get my WorkSharp out, use it on the bench then I put it back in a cabinet to store it. I kind of plan my sharpening events. I don't get to casually sharpen as I go.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

coxhaus said:


> I really like your design and setup. I am just so limited in space in my shop. I get my WorkSharp out, use it on the bench then I put it back in a cabinet to store it. I kind of plan my sharpening events. I don't get to casually sharpen as I go.


I, too, am very limited for space. The overall dimensions are not much bigger then the WS itself. Approximately, 8" longer and 2" wider additional. Overall is around 21-1/2 long x 7-1/2 wide by ~13" high for the cabinet I built. I ended up with storage for 9 platens, and a drawer for accessory storage.


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