# First Jig



## shipwreck (Feb 25, 2010)

I haven't done much router work in the past other then the occasional round over and then usually just in Pine. I now have been asked to complete a project that requires 130 pieces of the same shape from 3/4" red Oak. So I have turned to my router and have been having nothing but trouble.

I started with 1/2" MDF to create a template. I attach the template to a piece of oak and trimmed the oak to about 1/16" larger then the pattern on the band saw. I am using a frued flush trim bit in my router mounted to the table. Going along the grain works fine and I can usually go across one end grain but at least one end keeps grabbing and blowing out. So what am I doing wrong? I have a attached a quick sketch that is similar to the template, and for reference it would be about 7"x3"


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

You may want to upgrade your trim bit to the one below.

Spiral Flush Trim Router Bit
MLCS solid carbide router bits

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shipwreck said:


> I haven't done much router work in the past other then the occasional round over and then usually just in Pine. I now have been asked to complete a project that requires 130 pieces of the same shape from 3/4" red Oak. So I have turned to my router and have been having nothing but trouble.
> 
> I started with 1/2" MDF to create a template. I attach the template to a piece of oak and trimmed the oak to about 1/16" larger then the pattern on the band saw. I am using a frued flush trim bit in my router mounted to the table. Going along the grain works fine and I can usually go across one end grain but at least one end keeps grabbing and blowing out. So what am I doing wrong? I have a attached a quick sketch that is similar to the template, and for reference it would be about 7"x3"


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

The other thing I can think of is to leave more material behind from the the band saw operation (maybe an 1/8) and run the end grain first. This way any blow out will be removed when you run the bit along the grain.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

shipwreck said:


> I haven't done much router work in the past other then the occasional round over and then usually just in Pine. I now have been asked to complete a project that requires 130 pieces of the same shape from 3/4" red Oak. So I have turned to my router and have been having nothing but trouble.
> 
> I started with 1/2" MDF to create a template. I attach the template to a piece of oak and trimmed the oak to about 1/16" larger then the pattern on the band saw. I am using a frued flush trim bit in my router mounted to the table. Going along the grain works fine and I can usually go across one end grain but at least one end keeps grabbing and blowing out. So what am I doing wrong? I have a attached a quick sketch that is similar to the template, and for reference it would be about 7"x3"


Hi Wreck - Welcome to the forum
Maybe a trim bit with a top AND bottom bearing? 
Go most of the way around the workpiece using one bearing for a guide. Flip the workpiece over and finish.
The bit BobJ recommended should help a lot, or a shear cutter. Both top/bottom and shear cutters are listed on this page:
MLCS Flush Trim router router bits


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

When i was in high school wood class 25 years ago, we were taught to dip the end grain of stock in a little water before planing with the shooting board. This method produced very clean cuts without tearout.

Anyone know if this is something that might work with the router as well ?
I think I'll try it tomorrow.


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

Top and bottom bearing...flip the peice over....

I would never have thought of that. Well, maybe someday, but it would probably have been a long time.


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## shipwreck (Feb 25, 2010)

Thanks for the welcome everyone.

I have purchased a bit as Bob recommend but without the bearing that I was planning on using for plunging the slots I need, I will see if I can find that bit around here.

I tried leaving more material on with the bandsaw but had the same problem, I was thinking that the less material would be easier to work with.

For the top and bottom bearing bit I don't understand quite how to use this. Would one of the bearings not just ride on the oak and stop any cutting from occurring?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rob

You don't need the bit with the bearing on it if you use your brass guide in the router table..it's a very easy way to save buying more bits..

That way one bit for both types of jobs 

http://www.routerworkshop.com/router_tip_glossary.html

http://www.routerworkshop.com/quickpattern.html

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shipwreck said:


> Thanks for the welcome everyone.
> 
> I have purchased a bit as Bob recommend but without the bearing that I was planning on using for plunging the slots I need, I will see if I can find that bit around here.
> 
> ...


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## jjmill1980 (Dec 15, 2009)

I to recently jumped into the world of template routing and I was having a similar problem. Through trial and error and much frustration I figured out that I was running the bit too slow. I maxed out the speed and have not had a problem since. I don't know if you are using a variable speed router but you could give this a try. I keep my feed rate as slow as possible (without burning the wood) and I can start at any point (end grain or long grain) without any problems. However, I am using a spiral bit with a template guide I don't know if you would see the same results with a flush cut bit.

Good Luck, let us know what the solution is!


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

shipwreck said:


> Thanks for the welcome everyone.
> 
> I have purchased a bit as Bob recommend but without the bearing that I was planning on using for plunging the slots I need, I will see if I can find that bit around here.
> 
> ...


Hi Rob, cutting length would need to be longer than the stock thickness and you would need to have the workpiece supported such that the top and bottom edges were both clear. With the template on top, make the first partial cut with the depth set so the top bearing references the template and the bottom bearing clear of the workpiece. Flip it over with template now on the bottom and adjust bit height so the bottom bearin references the template and the top bearing is clear of the workpiece.
That is the only way I could think of to avoid having to reset the template. 
I do like BobJ's suggestion about using the guide bushings instead of the bearing although it would require a new template. You might also, very carefully, try climb cutting (going backwards) for that piece of endgrain you are having trouble with. With only a 1/16" of cut plus a 1/2" thick template to help guide you it should be reasonably safe. I would be inclinded to use a bushing with this approach. 
Just be aware that on climb cuts the router will want to run away from you.:fie:


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## Stefang (Feb 10, 2010)

Hi Rob, 

Unless I missed it. nobody mentioned that you should rout one end first, then one side and then the other end and then the last side. By routing the endgrain before the sides any blowout will be corrected when you rout the side afterward. Have you been doing it that way?


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

Done a lot of Red Oak last year, and had the same issue, and as stated above do the end grain first, and I also found out if you increase the speed (depending on the bit size and shape) and take several small cuts until you get to your template/pattern.

Was doing one of the large door rails for the wifes bird cage, it was a roman arch, and was routing the detail on the radius side when I came to part of the radius where I was cutting into the grain it split the board and set the bottom half of the radius accross the floor :angry: I was able to glue it back together and finish but had to take really small cuts. Cant even tell the board was split.:yes4:


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Stefang said:


> Hi Rob,
> 
> Unless I missed it. nobody mentioned that you should rout one end first, then one side and then the other end and then the last side. By routing the endgrain before the sides any blowout will be corrected when you rout the side afterward. Have you been doing it that way?


Hi Mike, maybe I'm the one who missed it here. For some reason I was thinking he wasn't routing the long, left edge of the item(see drawing in OP).
But rereading the OP nothing like that was mentioned... hmmm, feeble brain cell filling in blanks where there aren't any I guessh34r:
You're right of course, start on the endgrain and finish on the edge grain and the problem should go away.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

shipwreck said:


> I tried leaving more material on with the bandsaw but had the same problem, I was thinking that the less material would be easier to work with.


I'm sure we're talking the same thing but just in case....

Tearout in end grain usually occurs when the bit hits the "end" of the end grain. Therefore, the extra material needs to be on the width, so if / when the bit tears a little bit, it is removed with the with-grain cut. 

With a non-square template like yours, this may mean taking several cross-grain cuts followed by several with-grain cuts.


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