# Incra Jig Process Imporovement



## tprofera (Jun 29, 2008)

Had trouble with getting the Incra Ultra to cut joints the way I wanted consistantly. Loose joints drive me crazy! Anyway I set to tighten things up with a process approach towards improvement. My system now cuts flawless 1/2 blind and full dovetails about every time now. I'm now looking forward to progressing some of the more advanced joinery thats possible with the Incra system.

Of particular note: replaced the slightly chewed up runners on the base of the Horizontal fixture with custom made plywood/polyethylene replacements. Extended them another 2" out the back from the originals for added support. The polyetylene was cut from a large cutting board purchased from sams club. That stuff even joints nice! The fixture slides much better now. 

Here are the steps I took to get it RIGHT! 
INCRA JIG Improvements for cutting Dovetails:

DONE - Tighten all Screws on Fence and jig

DONE - Verify Incra Jig Fence is 90 to router table top - shim if needed

DONE - Remove jig from table and blow out dust - blow out and brush incra jig teeth

DONE - Adjust router Table plate to be level with router tabletop height

DONE - Verify Router Base Plate is tightly secured to router table plate 

DONE - Measure dovetail router bits with calipers to ensure correct sizing
Mark with Sharpie the size and bit type on bit shaft.

DONE - Clean dovetails bits of pitch and touch up with diamond stone.

Make dovetail rabbeting standup push jig.

DONE - Make new Horizontal jig jig runners from UHMW or Polyethylene Cutting Board.
DONE - Make spares runner part for future use (both 5" and 7")

Add Aluminum or Wood Cross Member to runner extensions.

Add Lead Weight to top of base of Horizontal Fixture.
Add a good handle to Horizontal fixture to push with. 

Install UHMW on inside of horizontal fixture Al slide.	

Install MDF backer board on Horiz. fixture?

DONE - Test locking the router height. Note: not needed 

FUTURE - Install in the table dust collection?
FUTURE - Install a tabletop dust collection catch.

Let me know if any of this is of help.

TJ
Life is too short...this is not a rehearsal.


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

Thanks for sharing


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Nice job on the post TJ. A lot of helpful information provided. I am bookmarking this thread for future use.

Thanks! :thank_you2:


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Some positive points for improvement there. I have long slippy plastic rails and am making a handle for the RAJ. I support the material with small sacrificial strips. And have precise bits.Carry on.


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## tprofera (Jun 29, 2008)

Mike;
I just addeed a handle and a cross plate for the extended base runners. It feels like it adds control to the cuts by permitting more downward and right pressure to keep base of fixture on the fence. It also adds degree of safety as I use one hand to hold the stock to the top of the fixture to minimize any vibration, and the other hand to push the stock through the bit with the handle. This ensures to a degree that both hands are out of the path of the bit as it moves through the work.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thats a very nice idea there with the handle!!


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

My handle is styled on a wood bodied plane handle, and held on with KD dowel fittings. Will post photo when polished and assembled. I need a metalwork lathe to turn down the dowels a bit.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Handle polished, waxed and installed.


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## tprofera (Jun 29, 2008)

Mike Wingate said:


> Handle polished, waxed and installed.


 Mike thats a nice handle! It looks to be very effective. The skill of some of you never fails to amaze me. 

The handle I installed is set back to permit full clamping along the back of the horizontal fixture with a wood parallel clamps (or whatever they are called). Its funny...my handle reminds of a boat oar handle or something I've seen on sailing ships while yours looks very professional!


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Thanks, but it is just a copy of one I did for a fingerjoint jig, with replacable sacrificial, dovetailed inserts. (never used now I have the Incra) copied from an old wooden handsaw I had at school(gone and replaced with plastic rubbish). Nothing is original, just changed a bit. My next project is to make some featherboards using polypropylene cutting board material on the laser cutter (arriving at school on tuesday). Cheaper than buying sheet material. Well done with your jig. Similar but with our "own" style. I saw yours on the Australian wood forum.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Tprofera, Mikes handle is nice, but I have to give yours a "thumbs up."


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

I think you already added the wood cross member to runner extensions when you added the handles, but what is the purpose of adding lead weights to top of base of horizontal fixture? 

Is it to help hold the fixture down, to reduce vibration, or what?



tprofera said:


> Add Aluminum or Wood Cross Member to runner extensions.
> 
> Add Lead Weight to top of base of Horizontal Fixture.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I really love using my RAJ, I have made a few more boxes, and collected a few more routerbits. The tool is really versatile. I have bought some brass guide bushes to screw into the router plate to accommodate a few new jigs in the new year.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Mike Wingate said:


> I really love using my RAJ, I have made a few more boxes, and collected a few more routerbits. The tool is really versatile. I have bought some brass guide bushes to screw into the router plate to accommodate a few new jigs in the new year.


I have standard straight bits, but have yet to get any spiral bits because of the cost. I saw a thread about using 2-flute straight bits with a shear angle so I may get one of those. What wood thickness do you make your boxes out of? Don't know which is better for boxes, 3/8" or 1/2" bit.

***Edit
It was Bobj who recommended those bits, and since they were dirt cheap, I ordered the 3/8" and 1/2" shear-angle straight bits for $18 with free shipping and no taxes, WOOT.
MLCS Shear Angle Straight Bits


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

So far they have been 10mm MDF and 3/8" ash and mahogany. My bits are all straight. It took me a while and some cost to find a 3/8" bit that was the right size. I am tempted by some spiral bits, but if they are the wrong size....The Incra Jig is intolerant of incorrect sized bits. I wonder how the Oak Park equipment people manage?


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

Props to both TJ and Mike, nice work!

Questions for both as well:

- Mike, what did you use for your handle, ApplePly? Other? The edge effect is, well, nifty!

- TJ, looks like you're making stringed instruments there... and it looks like four strings, yes? Inquiring minds want to know, whatcha making? 

Thanks-

Bob


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

My handle is 2 pieces of Baltic Birch Ply, laminated together with 3 coats of water based poly. I am always building guitars and other musical instruments, there is a thread of my new build, a cheap acoustic travel guitar, going on at the moment, but no one seems interested. I did start to post pics of some of my other instruments at someones suggestion.THANK YOU for noticing what goes on in the background!


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

Way cool, thanks for sharing. I haven't done any luthier stuff since my early music days 'xxx' years ago; built a vielle under the guidance of Harold Westover, a minister and instrument maker from New Hampshire. I read the posts on luthier-specific tools with interest, but not purchase (yet  ).

I'm purchasing the bandsaw from Highland, still considering whether to add blades (1/8" for scrolling, 1/2" for resawing) or wait. My experience has been that if you have it on hand, you'll use the right tool for the right job; if you buy it ahead of time, it may sit for a while unused, but will instantly become priceless when you need it...

Any opinions on THAT front will be welcome as well. 

Thanks again-

Bob


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

I'm a great believer in the 'It'll come in handy' principle. If I've 10mins to knock off a job and I've the right tool to hand, it gets done, but if I set up, then realise I'm missing something and either need to order it or drive into town to get it, then it's costing much more in time and fuel and then might not get done for a while. 
Fasteners are another good example. I've stacks of the Chinese boxes with a few of everything in that cost buttons. My local supermarket gets them but on the usual basis of having them this week and then maybe never again. I only need to use one out of the box for it to have paid for itself over the cost of going into town specially and the rest of them then stand me in at nothing. I sometimes worry about the local supplier losing business and maybe not being there one day, but his selection is not the best and I've often now got stuff he hasn't.

Cheers

Peter


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

istracpsboss said:


> I'm a great believer in the 'It'll come in handy' principle. If I've 10mins to knock off a job and I've the right tool to hand, it gets done, but if I set up, then realise I'm missing something and either need to order it or drive into town to get it, then it's costing much more in time and fuel and then might not get done for a while.
> Fasteners are another good example. I've stacks of the Chinese boxes with a few of everything in that cost buttons. My local supermarket gets them but on the usual basis of having them this week and then maybe never again. I only need to use one out of the box for it to have paid for itself over the cost of going into town specially and the rest of them then stand me in at nothing. I sometimes worry about the local supplier losing business and maybe not being there one day, but his selection is not the best and I've often now got stuff he hasn't.
> 
> Cheers
> ...


Amen, brother! 

I've got my cart with Highland loaded up with a 1/1" and a 1/2" (Woodslicer) blade, but for some reason thought it would be cool to actually pull the trigger in 2010... starting the year off right, I guess. :yes4:

On to the last supper of 2009, looking forward to a good year! Best wishes to all...

Bob


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## Eyeman12078 (Sep 19, 2012)

tprofera said:


> Mike;
> I just addeed a handle and a cross plate for the extended base runners. It feels like it adds control to the cuts by permitting more downward and right pressure to keep base of fixture on the fence. It also adds degree of safety as I use one hand to hold the stock to the top of the fixture to minimize any vibration, and the other hand to push the stock through the bit with the handle. This ensures to a degree that both hands are out of the path of the bit as it moves through the work.


I love this Handle Idea!


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## Eyeman12078 (Sep 19, 2012)

*Nice!*

I love both the handles, and had been trying to figure out how to get tighter more consistent joints. Thanks for the ideas. I have a few chunks of UHMW to add to the runners too. Awesome.


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