# Which sander should I choose?



## volunteers (Mar 4, 2011)

I only have budget to buy one sander. I want to choose either Random Orbit Sander (the round one) or 1/4-Sheet Orbital Sander (the square one). Usually the surface of my to-be-done project is smooth since I use plane to fine-tune it carefully. I want to use the sander to finish the work before painting. 

Woodworking is just my hobby. I don't spend a lot of time on it, maybe finish one small project in one or two months. A sand paper holder is my weapon right now. 

What is the better choice for my situation? Thanks.


----------



## newwoodworker (Mar 27, 2009)

Random Orbit Sander


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

volunteers said:


> I only have budget to buy one sander. I want to choose either Random Orbit Sander (the round one) or 1/4-Sheet Orbital Sander (the square one). Usually the surface of my to-be-done project is smooth since I use plane to fine-tune it carefully. I want to use the sander to finish the work before painting.
> 
> Woodworking is just my hobby. I don't spend a lot of time on it, maybe finish one small project in one or two months. A sand paper holder is my weapon right now.
> 
> What is the better choice for my situation? Thanks.


Hi - If I were limited to only one type sander, I would go with the finish sander. ROS won't get near a perpendicular surface without damaging it, nor can it get into tighter places. ROS will remove stock faster and leave a good finish though. 
On the finishing sander, make sure you get one with a phenolic platen. Many of the cheaper ones have aluminum platens which leave black marks on adjacent perpendicular surfaces. Pain to sand out and usually not where they can be easily reached.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

5" Random Orbital Palm Sander

Display

for only 22.oo dollars
=


----------



## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Welcome, I have Dewalt both ROS and the square vibrator , If I had to use only one it would be the square vibrator the ros will clean a board quicker but the vibrator will smooth it better ...just my 2 cents


----------



## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Will,

What sort of stuff are you making? how much time are you willing to spend hand sanding? 

To be honest, I have a nice PC random orbit sander, a 1/4 sheet sander, an antique 1/3 sheet sander, belt sander.... All those are great for bigger projects, but for small stuff lately I end up using a little black and decker 'mouse' sander that I picked up at an estate sale. It gets into every corner, and is a pretty neat little tool.

The newer version is linked below

Shop BLACK & DECKER Mouse Detail Sander With Dust Collection at Lowes.com


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

kp91 said:


> Will,
> 
> What sort of stuff are you making? how much time are you willing to spend hand sanding?
> 
> ...


Thanks for that info Doug. I've been using my Multi-Max with the sanding triangle on it but was wondering about that B&D Mouse, the dremel is a little long to really into tight spots.


----------



## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

John,

I personally prefer the aftermarket sandpaper than the B & D. The B & D paper has replaceable diamonds at the point, figuring you are going to use that part up first. The aftermarket pads don't have it, and don't curl at the wrong time.....


----------



## volunteers (Mar 4, 2011)

My regular work are some indoor small furniture, such like table, cabinet. I want to use the sander to finish the surface and corners. 



kp91 said:


> Will,
> 
> What sort of stuff are you making? how much time are you willing to spend hand sanding?
> 
> ...


----------



## Mosti (May 17, 2011)

I would buy a mouse sander. It goes esily in corners and great for small projects.


----------



## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

A #3 or #4 smoothing plane plus a card scraper!  

I would go for a ROS for most sanding.


----------



## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Why not a belt sander? One of the few things I recall from 8th grade shop class is that one should always sand with the graing, not across it. An orbital sander, no matter what shape, goes across the grain 1/2 the time.


----------



## bosham (May 3, 2011)

I'll run with the B&D mouse ....its the best finishing sander I have ever owned, not that I have had or used many but a square sheet sander is a right pain by comparison with the B&D mouse. The B&D tools, for the woodworker who is just enjoying himself have come a quantum leap over the last 5 years.


----------



## BobBosch (Feb 11, 2011)

*Orbital Sander Recommendation*



volunteers said:


> I only have budget to buy one sander. I want to choose either Random Orbit Sander (the round one) or 1/4-Sheet Orbital Sander (the square one). Usually the surface of my to-be-done project is smooth since I use plane to fine-tune it carefully. I want to use the sander to finish the work before painting.
> 
> Woodworking is just my hobby. I don't spend a lot of time on it, maybe finish one small project in one or two months. A sand paper holder is my weapon right now.
> 
> What is the better choice for my situation? Thanks.


I like the Makita BO5030. It is avaliable on line at acetoolonline.com for about $63. You do not need a variable speed sander since I use mine at maximum speed all the time. Variable speed just adds $$ to the cost.

Bob


----------



## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

*A Vote for the ROS*

I have a PC variable speed, random orbit polisher-sander, a Fein Multimaster, two Bosch 1/4 sheet ROS's, a Dewalt 1/4 sheet ROS's, 3 PC 1/4 sheet ROS's (one gray and two of the heavy black beasts). Finally, I have a Dewalt and a PC 3x21 belt sander. 

If I could only keep one of all my sanders, it would be the most used, which is one of the 1/4 sheet ROS's. Of those, one of the lightweight units would be my preference. Too, I would choose one with easily changed base pads, since the pads wear at the edges from my habitual detail sanding abuses.

The above choice is not to say I wouldn't replace my PC variable speed, random orbit or Fein Multimaster in a heartbeat, if either expired. They, as others suggested, open doors. For example, my PC allows me to produce wood project finishes that are indistinguishable from a sprayed finished, gives me professional quality, swirl free automotive finishes, and does regular stock removal.


----------



## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

jschaben said:


> Hi - If I were limited to only one type sander, I would go with the finish sander. ROS won't get near a perpendicular surface without damaging it, nor can it get into tighter places. ROS will remove stock faster and leave a good finish though.


Hi John

I'd agree with you about not being able to get into tight places, but there are ways and means with ROSs to keep your nice sharp edges. Better quality ROSs (Festool, Metabo, Bosch, etc) have optional backing pads ranging from very soft (for curvy car bodies and boat hulls) to extra hard (for sharp edges) the extra hard ones really work and do reduce edge dubbing dramatically.

Regards

Phil


----------



## n1edm (Jul 3, 2010)

I came across an Orbital Sander review in a 2008 issue of a Wood magazine.

First place when to a Porter Cable Model 390K for about $130 (in 2008 dollars)
The "Top Value" award went to a Milwaukee 6021-21 for about $70

Just my $.02

Bob


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

nancybrown said:


> I think Gedu Professional Air sander is the best for you. It's Works very well for it's intended purpose. Stays flat when sanding does not vibrate much on hand and sands well couldn't ask for anything more especially for the price ($50.49). My friend uses this in a wood shop and lets others borrow it constantly he push it's limits and it still works perfectly.


It looks like a great little sander. I don't see any dust extraction port on it. I don't think my air compressor would have the capacity to run one though.
Herb


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Nancy; you did notice that the last post prior to yours was seven years ago... 
But good reviews (and bad) are always welcome, even if the original poster has moved on. 
I too prefer a pneumatic sander over electric. Mine's a random orbital, 6" diam., that uses the hook and loop system. It's very low air consumption and that's a feature that keeps a lot of potential users from getting them, high air consumption I mean.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

After I got my ROS I gave my other sanders to my son.


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Hey, Nancy; you did notice that the last post prior to yours was seven years ago...
> But good reviews (and bad) are always welcome, even if the original poster has moved on.
> I too prefer a pneumatic sander over electric. Mine's a random orbital, 6" diam., that uses the hook and loop system. It's very low air consumption and that's a feature that keeps a lot of potential users from getting them, high air consumption I mean.


The Gedu takes 10.5 cuft./90 lbs pressure. More than my little compresser will put out consistently.

https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Random-Orbital-Pneumatic-Vibration/dp/B01MZ1PTMY

Herb


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> The Gedu takes 10.5 cuft./90 lbs pressure. More than my little compresser will put out consistently.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Random-Orbital-Pneumatic-Vibration/dp/B01MZ1PTMY
> 
> Herb


Yeh, I did a thread months ago about this little beauty I bought...2 cu. ft. at 90psi.
I bought it at Princess Auto. Due to this new computer issue I'm having I can't load the Princess Auto site to add a link.


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Yeh, I did a thread months ago about this little beauty I bought...2 cu. ft. at 90psi.
> I bought it at Princess Auto. Due to this new computer issue I'm having I can't load the Princess Auto site to add a link.


Is it one of these ,Dan ?


https://princessauto.com/en/search?Dy=1&Nty=1&Ntt=airsander

Herb


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

This one...thanks, Herb!
https://princessauto.com/en/detail/...sionid=n-vN23+igOn6zdsMojMxL9NS.pal-prod-com2


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> This one...thanks, Herb!
> https://princessauto.com/en/detail/...sionid=n-vN23+igOn6zdsMojMxL9NS.pal-prod-com2


I found this one that is very similar here.
https://www.amazon.com/TCP-Global-A...d=1516855774&sr=8-12&keywords=Air+Palm+Sander

What is your tank Capacity, Dan?

Herb


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*99 Bottles of Beer On the Wall...*



Herb Stoops said:


> I found this one that is very similar here.
> https://www.amazon.com/TCP-Global-A...d=1516855774&sr=8-12&keywords=Air+Palm+Sander
> 
> What is your tank Capacity, Dan?
> ...


It makes 8 doz. per batch.....
Oh! Wait!! You mean my _air compressor_. 20 gal.
It's one of those belt driven, oil lubed Campbell Hausfeld jobs.
https://www.kmstools.com/campbell-hausfeld-2hp-20-gallon-portable-air-compressor-10539


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Interesting how many old strings have popped up lately. Good discussion though.


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> It makes 8 doz. per batch.....
> Oh! Wait!! You mean my _air compressor_. 20 gal.
> It's one of those belt driven, oil lubed Campbell Hausfeld jobs.
> https://www.kmstools.com/campbell-hausfeld-2hp-20-gallon-portable-air-compressor-10539


That will make a big difference, my little 6 gal will not handle air tools other than small nail guns.

Herb


----------



## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

I love my ROS, variable speed beasts, sometimes. Other times, I favor my 1/4 sanders. When doing contours or quick, mild round-overs that a router wouldn't improve, handling my Rotex and a hose can make the task even less likeable. For such times, my little, lightweight beasts are king. Even more so if I can fit the item inside my sanding table hood.

If I'm back to flat surfaces, then the twirling varmits outshine the 1/4 sheet.

In the end, as already pointed out, which router type you choose for your first one should be influenced by what type of sanding you are going to be doing the most.


Add to that, the much bragged about Festool paper drops back to being about like any other paper, without good dust collection to remove the fines, before they can load the paper. Clearly, dust collection [and the required blasted hose] will go far to improving sander performance. Of course, it'll make keeping the work area clean much easier too.

____________________

Meanwhile, at a different ranch, I'm always surprised at that so many wonder at new posts on old threads. Improvements on equipment aside, some information remains timeless and it seems, to me, strange to expect a new post, versus carrying on on an old thread. Like Tom said, good discussion.


----------



## Rebelwork Woodworking (Sep 11, 2004)

DesertRatTom said:


> Interesting how many old strings have popped up lately. Good discussion though.


a lot of us old guys don't come on here but every 10 years:wink:

Gotta do the Jeepers Creeper thing, Once every decade..


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Models change and some of the people move on but much of the information stays the same.


----------



## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

and..... when new members join the site and start reading through old threads, it's expected that some of those threads will get resurrected, which isn't a bad thing


----------



## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

DaninVan said:


> This one...thanks, Herb!
> https://princessauto.com/en/detail/...sionid=n-vN23+igOn6zdsMojMxL9NS.pal-prod-com2


I need to bring this thread back to life again. I need a sander for fine wet dry paper. I was thinking 5 or 6 inch Orbital Sander but I am open to suggestions for other solutions. I have two Bosch electric Orbital Sander but using water seems to be a problem. 

DAN your link does not work any more.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

The ROS is out for me. Can't get a good finish. If you're using a plane, you don't want to ruin the planed look by over sanding, so the square would be my choice, although if you are sanding assembled parts, the Mouse sander would be my next choice.

OR, see if you can find the 3M translucent sanding medium, which you can wrap around a block and get outstanding results. Flex it a bit and it's good as new. Has quite a bite too, so you won't kill yourself doing the job. Here's a pic of the old packageing. I love this stuff. Thought they were going to discontinue it so I bought a bunch. You can use it in the vibrating sander. It is also great to wrap around shaped sanding blocks (pix) for things like picture frames. Cool stuff.

And don't forget card scrapers (pix). Inexpensive, exquisite results.

As always, pictures loaded out of order. Wish some programmer would work out a simple way to rearrange them. PITA in trying to share something sequential. The method they have is too complex to be useful and doesn't allow for adding or removing something.


----------



## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

At the end of the day it comes down to what you need to accomplish with the sander. I favor the ROS as I build a lot of cutting boards and boxes. I also use the sanding blocks Tom recommends. One key not mentioned is the quality of the paper as well. I have found that the abirnet from Mirka is worth the investment.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I'm only familiar with using air driven sanders for wet or dry paper with water.


----------



## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I would go with the RO. Because of the way it works the square sander will leave round scratches on the wood the RO won't.


----------



## Bstrom (Jan 2, 2020)

mgmine said:


> I would go with the RO. Because of the way it works the square sander will leave round scratches on the wood the RO won't.


I agree for the sake of convenience and speed - but it does take a little discernment to choose papers. Too much rough sanding can make for a lot of work getting to a finish surface. And working through the grit grades is the right way to get there too. In fact, some softer woods don’t even need the finest grits to get to the smoothest surfaces.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Bstrom said:


> I agree for the sake of convenience and speed - but it does take a little discernment to choose papers. Too much rough sanding can make for a lot of work getting to a finish surface. And working through the grit grades is the right way to get there too. In fact, some softer woods don’t even need the finest grits to get to the smoothest surfaces.


Wet sanding usually means something inorganic is getting sanded...


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Square sanders just rotate and leave small circles as it sands. And as you run it up and down the piece, it will leave swirls. Depending on your speed, it could leave marks like sine waves. Of course, that depends on the corseness of the paper.

ROS's don't do that because the pad also rotates...but it doesn't get into corners. Not a problem as there are other means of getting into the corners.

The cheap detailers and oscillating tools (like Fein) have a side-to-side motion. Some of the detailers oscillate in circles (Mouse, Ryobi, others)

The more coarse the paper, the better it is to use a ROS. Finer paper is more forgiving to detailers, oscillating tools and square pads.


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Big jobs - ROS to start and then hand sanding blocks to finish.
Small jobs - hand sanding all the way.

I've used lots of different sanders over the years and my current ROS is the best I've ever used - Bosch ROS65VC with a 5" pad. It is very kind on the hands (vibrations well dampened) and has good dust extraction.

But there really is no substitute for hand sanding. Good sanding blocks make all the difference. I make my own - here's a how-to for making your own.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Dust Storm*



coxhaus said:


> I need to bring this thread back to life again. I need a sander for fine wet dry paper. I was thinking 5 or 6 inch Orbital Sander but I am open to suggestions for other solutions. I have two Bosch electric Orbital Sander but using water seems to be a problem.
> 
> DAN your link does not work any more.


Lee; lots of relatively inexpensive air ROS sanders out there...these are a few available up here in Canada, but I'd be pretty surprised if the same weren't available South of the border.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/det...sionid=oVpHsgTOzBzcPZAJVzumfU7Z.pal-prod-com1
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/6-in-random-orbit-palm-sander/A-p8572232e
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/orbital-jitterbug-air-sander/A-p3407277e
https://www.kmstools.com/magnum-6-random-orbit-air-sander-172076


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

I don't understand why people love air sanders. I see several negatives - the air line isn't so flexible, exhaust air blows dust all around and the compressor is really loud. To be honest, I've never used one - am willing to hear why they are so great.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Phil; if you check out those links you'll see that the ROS sanders have exhaust hose ports for your dust collection system. They use sanding discs with prepunched holes that align with holes in the pads.
I don't find the air hose any more of an obstacle than a power cord. Having accidentally run over a power cord with my belt sander I do not recommend trying that!
With variable speeds up to 13K they're fast!


----------



## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

ROS very versatile easy to change grits and won't gouge your work..... unless you really really try.


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> Phil; if you check out those links you'll see that the ROS sanders have exhaust hose ports for your dust collection system. They use sanding discs with prepunched holes that align with holes in the pads.
> I don't find the air hose any more of an obstacle than a power cord. Having accidentally run over a power cord with my belt sander I do not recommend trying that!
> With variable speeds up to 13K they're fast!


Yes, I use my ROS with a dust extractor (shop made separator with vac) all the time. I was concerned about the waste air of the air powered ones stirring up a lot of dust.


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Marco said:


> ROS very versatile easy to change grits and won't gouge your work..... unless you really really try.


The quality of the sandpaper disks make a big difference - I was seeing all sorts of swirly scratches that went away when I got better quality disks.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

PhilBa said:


> Yes, I use my ROS with a dust extractor (shop made separator with vac) all the time. * I was concerned about the waste air of the air powered ones stirring up a lot of dust.*


that they do...


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Think of it as increased ventilation...


----------



## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

I've only used 3 different brands and none left swirly scratches. "Gator" brand seemed to wear out fast. "Mirka" brand lasted longer for me, better price and have multi grit packs. Currently use "Rhinogrip" because I was out and my buddy at the local hardware store/industrial supplier suggested them as the local cabinet shop (s) and alike use them. I only bought the 80 grit but it is the better of the 3.

I would like to know the "best" sandpaper out there because sanding is not the place to save a dime.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Up here, N. of 49, I like these guys...
https://onlinesupply.ca/Abrasives/sanding-discs-1/discs-paper-velcro
Only works if you don't mind buying a box at a time. 

https://onlinesupply.ca/Current-Specials/Premier-Red/premier-red-discs/CA20325


----------



## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I am looking for a finish sander that I can use water with to keep the fine paper from clogging up. To me water and electricity does not mix well. So I have been looking more and found a Jitterbug air sander. What do you guys think of a Jitterbug sander? I would like to dip the sander in a small pan of water or maybe rub some water on with my hand. This is for fine finish like paint or a clear finish. I am currently doing it by hand but I am getting tired and old. I want an easier way.

I installed my 60 gal Dewalt air compressor so I have plenty of air now, I think around 13 cfm.


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> 5" Random Orbital Palm Sander
> 
> Display
> 
> ...


GO HARBOR FRIEGHT!!
Herb


----------



## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

coxhaus said:


> I am looking for a finish sander that I can use water with to keep the fine paper from clogging up. To me water and electricity does not mix well. So I have been looking more and found a Jitterbug air sander. What do you guys think of a Jitterbug sander? I would like to dip the sander in a small pan of water or maybe rub some water on with my hand. This is for fine finish like paint or a clear finish. I am currently doing it by hand but I am getting tired and old. I want an easier way.
> 
> I installed my 60 gal Dewalt air compressor so I have plenty of air now, I think around 13 cfm.


I wouldn't wet sand with a power sander. You want to be able to feel the drag in order to tell when it is sanded enough. As long as you dip the paper in water it should stay clean.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I've read about sanding some finishes after with wet or dry and water but if done with power sanding you would want to turn the speed down I think. The water I think is mostly to reduce heat because if you get the finish too hot it melts and streaks. That's why it is probably best done by hand. Even hand sanding you have to be careful about it getting too hot sometimes.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I thought it was to act as a lubricant and carry away the slurry(?).
Probably a leftover practice from the days of rubbing down finishes with Rottenstone.


----------



## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I been using a Makita 1/4 sheet finish sander and it is working wet but I am afraid I will short it out or electrocute me.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

It's probably Double insulated. Unless you're a perfect ground it's highly unlikely to short out through you...
Rusted parts on the other hand.


----------



## Frank Kerman (Feb 2, 2020)

Random orbital the best option to choose.


----------



## Emperyko (Feb 18, 2020)

I also use finish sander, they are quite good, you should check them out.


----------



## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

I, often, use a sander with a bit of water or mineral oil, when finishing up a job.

For example, I brushed on seven layers of poly, finishing a friend's kitchen table. When the final coat was hard, I mounted 600 and, using water or oil, got rid of all the brush marks. 

The sandpaper turned the clear surface opaque, except on low spots, so it was easy to see how much more needed to be done.

Once the entire surface was white, and smooth, I wiped it clean, then switched to the variable speed ROS and things like diatomaceous earth or rotten stone. Again, I used water or oil for lubricant, adding as needed, to keep a slurry.

Once that had worked out, I switched to straight plastic polish. In the end, it looked like a sprayed finish.












Cherryville Chuck said:


> I've read about sanding some finishes after with wet or dry and water but if done with power sanding you would want to turn the speed down I think. The water I think is mostly to reduce heat because if you get the finish too hot it melts and streaks. That's why it is probably best done by hand. Even hand sanding you have to be careful about it getting too hot sometimes.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Kelly; just out of curiosity, is there a deteriorating effect from the oil on the rubber base of the sander? If oil gets on the sander's base pad how do you clean it off? Or do you not worry about it?


----------



## tulowd (Jan 24, 2019)

Wet sanding has been mentioned several times during this discussion; here are my thoughts:

My car was painted using very high end House of Kolor base and clearcoat. 
The final clear finish would mimic old school lacquer of app 15 coats in terms of thickness and sandability, offering plenty of material to cut through in order to perfect the surface.

My painter utilizes a very expensive high end Japanese sand paper made by Nikken; Meguiars has the rights for North America. The manufacturing process uses microscopically selected, identically sized abrasive particles for perfect uniformity and no high spots. Combined with water, it prevents it from loading up with "dust" which would scratch the surface. The water is also used for lubrication and heat dissipation, so as not to burn the surface from the friction. This is all done to remove any flaws or orange peel out of the topcoat. Calling it a mirror would not be wrong. 

Final show finishes (not for my car, since it;s street and track driven) can be sanded down using up to 3000(!!) grit. All final paint job prep then involves final polishing using a variety of paste/liquid compounds with an electric buffer and finally by hand. Glaze top coat for show cars that never see the outdoors, but a real carnuba wax is typically used to prevent bird droppings from scorching the paint irreparably. This does however, reduce the shine and surface brilliance noticeably.

In the automotive finishing world, I have never heard of using water with an air or electric sanding tool at the high end of finishing. Quick and dirty, yes but never for real nice finishes (something nicer than OEM standard finishes).


----------



## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

I hadn't noticed any, but I end up putting so many miles on sanders I have a literal stack of replacement pads.



DaninVan said:


> Kelly; just out of curiosity, is there a deteriorating effect from the oil on the rubber base of the sander? If oil gets on the sander's base pad how do you clean it off? Or do you not worry about it?


----------



## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

Note the surfaces I talked about working on were all horizontal surfaces, like table tops. Using water or oil on vertical surfaces would be an effort in futility in our world.

As well, my post was in response to a question on a woodworking web site, versus an automotive finishing site. However, I have done automotive finishes in woodworking projects, and over the top of high density particleboard [with the usual coats of primer]. I never tried the water or oil approach on those, but, had I had to deal with a significant horizontal surface, would have had zero qualms.

Keep in mind, we are not talking constant water flow, like millions use on their electric tile saws and granite polishing equipment (I used a Milwaukee and Makita variable speed grinder as my granite router and polisher before I got my Flex, water fed unit, the latter which do get tipped vertical, a lot, to edge polish.

These tools use pads that go well above 3000. But, like with any sanding operation, you have to keep everything clean from the previous grit and avoid loading.

A lot of nice work was done long before McGuires or any others showed up in our world. We used to have candy apple finishes that looked like you could put your finger in them. Water was the cleaner and the lube.



tulowd said:


> . . . .
> _n the automotive finishing world, I have never heard of using water with an air or electric sanding tool at the high end of finishing. Quick and dirty, yes but never for real nice finishes (something nicer than OEM standard finishes)._


----------

