# Routing Acrylic ....



## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

*Edge Routing...*

Not sure if this question goes here or not.

I build acrylic aquariums for saltwater and other acrylic related equipment -http://www.routerforums.com/introductions/11386-new-person.html - in my introduction post there is but a sampling of what I build, and the last pix is how I use the router table. 

Anyway, currently I am working on a tank for myself and need to trim the edges off on the tank. I used to use the router mounted in a "table" and just drag the tank across that to trim the edges up. I must be getting older or the acrylic is getting heavier but it's getting harder to do this simple task. On the bottom of the tank, it's solid and I'm sure I can use this. I can make my own as I have lots of acrylic around, has anyone used one of these before? Any tricks or secrets to using one? I have an old Sear router that is small and light weight and thinking about using it. 

The third image shows the top, it only has a 3" border around three sides, how would I trim this part without screwing up the look of the tank with a tip over on the bit? There is about $200 worth of acrylic here and I really don't want to mess it up.

TIA


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## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

Wow

41 views and no help.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Charles, I would recommend picking up a quality trim router such as the Bosch Colt. Then use some of your acrylic to make the base in the pic. I have made some similar and they are very stable with a light weight router.


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

Charles,
I'm pretty much new to routing and have been gathering information, tips and the like from any sources I can.

Somewhere in those sources I saw a *jig that one would attach to the router base that would prevent tip-over*. I'll send you a PM with a location to it.

IMHO: imagine attaching a piece of your acrylic to your router base to "extend" the base like an inverted router table. It could be made like the classic book-end. (inverted) so a long flat side would rub the end of the tank and a longer acrylic piece would extend across the top of the tank to steady the jig from the other side. If the acrylic on the long piece would bend, reinforce it with a piece of wood attached by counter-sunk screws through the acrylic into the wood.
Cordially,
Gerard


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## opelblues (Aug 22, 2008)

ge thats a lot of persons that looked at your thread. i look at the thread and i have a few questions. do you want a polished look to the edge, or will it be a machined finish, you will have to be careful not to mark the the other panel buy seting the bit to low and niping the the the other panel. what sort of bit are you going to use to trim. im sorry the only way i have finished the edge of acrylic is with a oxy torch, very lightly of corse and a hand scraper


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## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

Opelblues

A machined edge would be fine. 

Rusty

I have a smaller Sears 1/4" router that will work.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi opelblues

This what I do 
A little bit of heat is the key for me, and a buffing wheel will do that just fine..it will also melt the plastic so you must not over buff/heat the item up to much..  a good stick of compound and a min. or two and it's nice and clean and clear..

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opelblues said:


> ge thats a lot of persons that looked at your thread. i look at the thread and i have a few questions. do you want a polished look to the edge, or will it be a machined finish, you will have to be careful not to mark the the other panel buy seting the bit to low and niping the the the other panel. what sort of bit are you going to use to trim. im sorry the only way i have finished the edge of acrylic is with a oxy torch, very lightly of corse and a hand scraper


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## opelblues (Aug 22, 2008)

as you have posted a other thread in relation to this, all i can say is great jig very clean finish, i dont do very much in plastic i try to stay away from it as much as posible. but once again good set up - i may use your idea when i need to do some in the future


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## blfuller123 (Jan 11, 2009)

You can use the base you decribed with no problems. I have built several tanks (as big as 600 gallon) with the same base. Just make sure you use a dedicated bit for acrylic. Use a spiral bit with a breaing and your edges will come out fine. I would always finish the edges with an 1/8 inch round over. Make sure you dont heat the edges to polish. This will stress the joints and you will be in trouble once you get water in it.

I will post some pictures when I get over 10 post.

-Brett


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## blfuller123 (Jan 11, 2009)

Alright, I am at 10 post now. Here is some of my acrylic work:

The 600 gallon in work


















Big Skimmer









Another Skimmer









Cutting teeth for an external overflow


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

blfuller123 - that's some tank! Used for pet marlin?


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## blfuller123 (Jan 11, 2009)

Just a couple of guppies


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Pretty cool!


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Now thats what I call a "tank," Brett.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

lemonyx said:


> Not sure if this question goes here or not...


Hi Charles: Whoa, hold on. Cool your jets. Sit back and contemplate your carma here.

Yes, there is the jig, it's called (I call it) shiis. It's intended specifically for this function. Make the sticks long enough to go over the entire top of your tank. They don't have to be the same length both sides. You'll hold one side flush with the top of the tank and your other hand will go on the router.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...489d1226102819-skis-neophytes-router-skis.jpg

Now, you've got several things happening here. Firstly, you want to form your acrylic to meet your function. Use the spiral bit to do your crude forming. Do not use the Colt or other small routers. As you note, they will tip too easily. There is little or no vertical stability in those routers. They will do the job but they need some help. You want the shiis above on a good solid fixed base router. It doesn't have to be powerful, just beefy.

Now, you're going to cut one edge from start to finish with no stops. When you stop you'll make a slight imperfection in the surface. It is like snipe when you use a planer. I would recommend that you follow Bob's suggestion and cut to a certain point, then polish to the final dimension.

I hope this helps. Please, as you experiment, keep the forum involved so we can add to our accumulated knowledge over time.

Allthunbs


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## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

allthumbs

this is what I came up with in terms of trimming the overhang on the bottom of the tank

The next pix is a jig I made with the help of Gerry sr to steady the router on the thim (3") top and the sie of the tank.

This jig is adjustable to the different size cutting bit and bearing to be used. Just made it that way - like to be versitle

blfuller123 - nice tank, good work on those skimmers


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

lemonyx said:


> allthumbs
> 
> this is what I came up with in terms of trimming the overhang on the bottom of the tank
> 
> ...


Pic 1 looks like it will do just the trick. Is there a bit of a curve to it? How stable do you find it and what dimensions did you use? Can you give us pics from different angles? Is it elliptical? 

Pics 2 & 3, interesting. It looks like you are taking a bit off the very edge of the panel or is this to clean up a cut? It looks very robust. Can you give us more pics in different angles. It's hard to see what it's doing from just those two pics.

Ok, your knowledge and experience. What saw blade are you using? I presume you're using a table saw. What other tools beside that and a router? How are you bending the acrylic or is it acrylic that you're using? How are you gluing it? Product, method etc.?

Marvellously done and thank you for sharing but my brain is pretty slow, so far I've only gotten part of the picture. More please?

Allthunbs


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## Frank Lee (Nov 29, 2008)

GO WITH THE PRO (blfuller123 ) My old pappy told me "Brains, by virtue of dollar return are cheap, If you don't know it get some one who does " My 2 cents


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## Frank Lee (Nov 29, 2008)

Not a reply but aquestion--- if tis is proper. How is the best way to polish out a rough scratch in acrylic (golf cart windshield) Thanks in advance, Frank Lee


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## labric (Sep 11, 2004)

Frank

Use a heat gun over the scratch, with plenty of back and forth motion. Watch closely and the scratch with heal itself.:yes2:

:nono: DO NOT OVERHEAT :nono:as it will bubble.

 Ric


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Lee

They make and sale polish just for that job..

Many auto stores/glass companies sale it 


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Frank Lee said:


> Not a reply but aquestion--- if tis is proper. How is the best way to polish out a rough scratch in acrylic (golf cart windshield) Thanks in advance, Frank Lee


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

I picked up some acrylic scraps (at least I think it is) the other day for free for a jig I'm making. It could be some other similar plastic.
When I cut it with a jigsaw loaded with a plastic cutting blade, and when I routed it with a hss router bit, it tended to melt more than I expected(haven't used acrylic since 1988). I tried slowing the speed of the blade and increasing feed rate, but still had melting problems. Even when I drilled a hole it melted a little.
What am I doing wrong ?
or
Do I have some other type of plastic that has a lower melting point ?


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

gav said:


> I picked up some acrylic scraps (at least I think it is) the other day for free for a jig I'm making. It could be some other similar plastic.
> When I cut it with a jigsaw loaded with a plastic cutting blade, and when I routed it with a hss router bit, it tended to melt more than I expected(haven't used acrylic since 1988). I tried slowing the speed of the blade and increasing feed rate, but still had melting problems. Even when I drilled a hole it melted a little.
> What am I doing wrong ?
> or
> Do I have some other type of plastic that has a lower melting point ?


Sounds like you might have some Lexan it's softer, and it melts like that, cut a scrap peice, and hit it with a hammer, if it just dents, it's lexan, if it cracks or breaks it's acrylic. But I could be wrong.... Just Saying


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## Charles Wong (Jan 5, 2009)

Or it could be just cheap "xtruded" kind, the best acrylic to get is the cast, cuts nice on a router and with a "plastic blade" cuts clean


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