# Triton TRC001 Vs. Porter Cable 890 series



## weedsnager (Oct 8, 2011)

i'm looking for a router to be strictly in a table, the two most important things i want are above the table height adjustment and bit change. woodcraft has the triton for $199, and the porter cable is $233.....you tube has some nice video's of the triton being used above the table, but i can't find anything on the 890's being used above table.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Welcome.
I have had a Triton 2-1/4hp mounted in a table & have replaced it with the larger Triton 3-1/4hp router. Both are adjustable from the top. The Triton is an excellent router being mounted in a table. I don't have any experience with the PC890 mounted in a table for comparison. The PC890 is a good router for handheld though. Since this will be a dedicated router for the table & for a little more money, take a look at the Milwaukee 5625-20 3-1/2 Max HP Fixed-Base Production Router. It has some nice features & above table adjustment.

http://www.google.com/products/cata...ei=uFO1TtOfEKbXiQK28uVa&sqi=2&ved=0CDMQ8wIwAQ


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

I had the same requirement - above the table adjustment.

I went with the Triton 2 1/4 hp.

My table is merely MDF waxed.
(picture taken before Watco and waxing)


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## weedsnager (Oct 8, 2011)

the above table crank on the triton looks nice, looks like you can crank a bit up and down alot faster with that style of crank, compared to the Pc which has the single knob style .....the triton that im refering to is the 3 1/4 hp version.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

weedsnager said:


> i'm looking for a router to be strictly in a table, the two most important things i want are above the table height adjustment and bit change. woodcraft has the triton for $199, and the porter cable is $233.....you tube has some nice video's of the triton being used above the table, but i can't find anything on the 890's being used above table.


To make bit change easy from above the table. Mount the router in a plate that has easily removable reduction rings (for zero clearance). Remove the ring & with a bent wrench for your router you can change bits without moving router adjustment. Comes in handy when using matching bits as some rail & stile bits are. Putting a rubber grommet in the collet will set your bits at the same height every time without bottoming out the bit.

This style of grommet is firm enough & gives enough movement to allow the collet to grip the bit.
Black 1/2 in. Neoprene Grommet-73578 at The Home Depot


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

weedsnager said:


> the above table crank on the triton looks nice, looks like you can crank a bit up and down alot faster with that style of crank, compared to the Pc which has the single knob style .....the triton that im refering to is the 3 1/4 hp version.


Everything is the same on the 3-1/4hp Triton just more powerful .


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## weedsnager (Oct 8, 2011)

jlord said:


> To make bit change easy from above the table. Mount the router in a plate that has easily removable reduction rings (for zero clearance).


 the plate i was gonna use is the woodpecker Phenolic


i really wanted the porter cable, accessories are alot easier to come by, alot of different base options, etc. but the more i read, the more i'm leaning toward the triton


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

weedsnager said:


> the plate i was gonna use is the woodpecker Phenolic
> 
> 
> i really wanted the porter cable, accessories are alot easier to come by, alot of different base options, etc. but the more i read, the more i'm leaning toward the triton


That plate should will work fine. If it is to be dedicated to be mounted then all the base options wouldn't matter.


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## weedsnager (Oct 8, 2011)

after more reading , i find alot of people don't like the switch on the triton....the problem with having to tickle it every time you want to do a bit change...i guess if i want 100% i'd have to buy a lift huh?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jeff

No need to buy a lift for it, it has one built in and any any time you want to change the bit just push in the lock button in to lock the shaft in place without the need to move the bit up or down..

MLCS Heavyweight and Precision Router Tables

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weedsnager said:


> after more reading , i find alot of people don't like the switch on the triton....the problem with having to tickle it every time you want to do a bit change...i guess if i want 100% i'd have to buy a lift huh?


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

weedsnager said:


> after more reading , i find alot of people don't like the switch on the triton....the problem with having to tickle it every time you want to do a bit change...i guess if i want 100% i'd have to buy a lift huh?


I've never lifted it all the way up to change bits so the switch has not been a problem. I use a bent wrench & the lock to tighten & loosen bits. The switch on the router is always in the on position. I use an external on & off switch to power up the router.

Safety Power Tool Switch - Rockler Woodworking Tools

Router Table Switch


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## weedsnager (Oct 8, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Jeff
> 
> No need to buy a lift for it, it has one built in and any any time you want to change the bit just push in the lock button in to lock the shaft in place without the need to move the bit up or down..
> 
> ...


i understand the triton has the lift built in.....my last comment was about the switch....and every time you change a bit, you have to go under the table and toggle the switch to turn the router on again, even if you have it hooked up to an alternative router table on/off switch. correct??


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## weedsnager (Oct 8, 2011)

jlord said:


> I've never lifted it all the way up to change bits so the switch has not been a problem. I use a bent wrench & the lock to tighten & loosen bits. The switch on the router is always in the on position. I use an external on & off switch to power up the router.


ok, so your saying that if you don't crank the bit all the way to the top, the switch lock-out doesn't engage?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

weedsnager said:


> i understand the triton has the lift built in.....my last comment was about the switch....and every time you change a bit, you have to go under the table and toggle the switch to turn the router on again, even if you have it hooked up to an alternative router table on/off switch. correct??


That's the way my JOF001 works, the spindle lock and power switch are interlocked so you can set the spindle lock on a running router. I haven't got mine table mounted but it looks like you could get to the collet with a bent wrench. I haven't really looked to see if that feature can be disabled. 
Actually, I kind of like the interlocking feature. My Freud 1700 doesn't have the interlock and I've come very close to screwing it up several times.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

weedsnager said:


> ok, so your saying that if you don't crank the bit all the way to the top, the switch lock-out doesn't engage?


Yes. It locks out when topped out. This also locks the collet so all you need is one wrench to loosen. But if you come short of this then you use the collet lock & the wrench to loosen & it does not automatically disengage the switch. I have it connected to a remote switch so I don't have to reach under the table. I have the router mounted so the switch is located on the back side & the access for the crank on the front side. This allows height adjustment without having to move the fence to access the crank hole in the top.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I took some plastic and jammed the little door open and the power switch is always on,with the remote switch I have full control of it..than if I want to use it for a hand router the little plastic part comes right out..

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====


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## weedsnager (Oct 8, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> I took some plastic and jammed the little door open and the power switch is always on,with the remote switch I have full control of it..than if I want to use it for a hand router the little plastic part comes right out..
> 
> ...


great idea, i'll be headed to woodcraft on tuesday to pick up my new router, thanks for all the info guys


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> I took some plastic and jammed the little door open and the power switch is always on,with the remote switch I have full control of it..than if I want to use it for a hand router the little plastic part comes right out..


The soft start still works? (I figure so but worth the question)


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## weedsnager (Oct 8, 2011)

Will I be able to use the woodpeckers plastic plate with the triton or do I need to go with the aluminum woodpecker plate?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Yes

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rwl7532 said:


> The soft start still works? (I figure so but worth the question)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jeff

Go with the woodpeckers plastic plate..it will work just fine.


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weedsnager said:


> Will I be able to use the woodpeckers plastic plate with the triton or do I need to go with the aluminum woodpecker plate?


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## weedsnager (Oct 8, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Yes
> 
> ======


i've seen alot of reviews where people say it really doesn't even have a soft start.....is it even noticable?


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

weedsnager said:


> Will I be able to use the woodpeckers plastic plate with the triton or do I need to go with the aluminum woodpecker plate?


General recommendation for router table plate thickness is 3/8" for plastic & phenolic & 1/4" for aluminum.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

jlord said:


> General recommendation for router table plate thickness is 3/8" for plastic & phenolic & 1/4" for aluminum.


Any supplier recommendations for acrylic? sizes of 8" x 8" x 3/8" would be a good start.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

No one make a good 8" x 8" x 3/8 thick one but you can buy one and cut it down easy,the all in one is the way to go because it comes with the snap out rings.

All-In-One Router Plate Kit (black)
OR
SuperTuff Router Mounts (clear)

Router accessories

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rwl7532 said:


> Any supplier recommendations for acrylic? sizes of 8" x 8" x 3/8" would be a good start.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

I was thinking more using the acrylic to make bases for hand held use (Pat Warner style) or for the table use, a clear piece above the bit to protect the hands/fingers etc (see router accident thread).

Warner's book "Getting the Best from your Router" shows examples of each. (Figure 10-2 page 109 for the protection item for a table)


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Ralph if you want to make a base plate & not a plate for the router table you can use 1/4" since it would not be supporting the weight of a router hanging from it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

You must have a glass outlet in Everett, WA they must have plastic cut off all the time in a box up in front part of the store that you can buy for a song..

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rwl7532 said:


> I was thinking more using the acrylic to make bases for hand held use (Pat Warner style) or for the table use, a clear piece above the bit to protect the hands/fingers etc (see router accident thread).
> 
> Warner's book "Getting the Best from your Router" shows examples of each. (Figure 10-2 page 109 for the protection item for a table)


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> You must have a glass outlet in Everett, WA they must have plastic cut off all the time in a box up in front part of the store that you can buy for a song..
> 
> ===


Great idea!!


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

rwl7532 said:


> Any supplier recommendations for acrylic? sizes of 8" x 8" x 3/8" would be a good start.


Check eBay - I there are a lot of good deals on acrylic and polycarbonate. Shipping is usually what kills the deal for me but if there is a seller nearby most offer free pickup. In any case, shipping is mileage dependent. Also, much of it is from offcuts from sign companies. I try to get it for around $7 ft/sq... most sells for about $5 and $2 ship.


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