# My New Workshop



## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

After being inspired by Dan and Jerry on their shop overhauls, I started drawing up plans to turn my storage shed into a workshop/man cave. I finally got the o.k. from the boss to proceed (my Christmas present). These first pictures just show the building itself and the mess piled up inside of it. 
I have a double carport that sits right in front of this building. About a year ago, I moved the center carport roof support column and added a second one, offset from the roll-up door so I can back my truck right up into the shop to load and unload.


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

I would need a place to store my kids' outdoor toys, ice chests, tackle boxes, etc. I didn't want to put all that on the attack and have to drop the stairs every time they wanted to play with something, so I built a little storage unit into the rear corner of the carport. Realized I don't have a picture of the finished product. I'll post one in a day or two.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Looks like you will be busy also, some challenge that will keep you out of trouble.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

That'll be a nice work space when it's done. Roll up your sleeves!


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Congratulations on your new shop!!! What is the size 16'x16'?

My back hurts just looking at the work you have in front of you but it will be well worth it when you're done!

I'm finishing up making my much smalleer shed (10x12) into a shop, probably 25% left to go before its done but I am one happy camper.............


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

The building is 20' x 20', but it has 2"x6" base plates, so I lose a foot each way. Once the walls are closed in, it will be a true 19' x 19'. Got an unexpected Christmas bonus from my employer, so I'm planning on getting materials and framing up the first wall tomorrow. Very excited to get this thing going.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi George,

That will be some awesome space at 19' squared. Please keep us posted with pictures as you progress along. I love seeing other's shops and building of.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Looks good, it is hard work but fun work putting your shop together. Keep at it the rewards are worth it.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

I am happy for you....... a new shop and an employer with a good heart!!!


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

*First Wall Under Way*

Well, I got off to a slow start, but I have most of the first wall framed up, and two sheets of plywood screwed in place. Spent way too much time deciding where to mount the electrical panel, and what to do with the plumbing lines coming in. I want to add a floodlight outside the front roll-up door, so I ran the wire and installed a 2-gang switch box by the door. We are expecting heavy rains for the next few days so my progress will be hit and miss. It just feels good to get this thing going!!:dance3:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Welcome to the RWS forum


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Glad you got started..... and looks like a good first day! Plus a lot of things got moved around.

Speaking for my shop adventures..... I let these 3 things run through my mind

Everything takes at least twice as long as I figure it will (at least twice).

Stopping in the middle of the next step to triple check your well layed out plans is not a waste of time.

If it's almost right, it's still wrong!........ Get it done right the first time no matter how long it takes......... you'll save time and agravation in the long run by not having to re-do it

For me at the end of the day when very little is checked off the "To Do List" I don't feel as bad knowing that what little that was done was done right.


PS However today I was saying to myself, "If I knew half of what Bobj3 knows I would have been done 2 weeks ago!


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Thanks for the advise Jim. While all this is going on, it still is my primary storage space. So I've stuffed things in other places around the house, temporarily, but I still have to unload lots of stuff before I get started and fill it back up when I'm done for the day. I'll get it done, but it just will take longer to do it than I want.
100% chance of rain all night, and 80% chance the next three days. :moil:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi George

Looking good 

May I suggest one thing, b/4 you go to far with the panel box ,you take some 1/2" or 3/4" plywood and cut a hole in to fit around the breaker box (jig saw hole ) but still screwed in to the studs on the sides and top and bottom, than if you want add a breaker or some wire for a new outlet or two you can get to the box on all sides easy..once your done you can put a nice frame around the plywood to dress it up a little bit if you want to with screws so you pull it down and get into the panel box easy.

Something like below

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Capt Splinter said:


> Well, I got off to a slow start, but I have most of the first wall framed up, and two sheets of plywood screwed in place. Spent way too much time deciding where to mount the electrical panel, and what to do with the plumbing lines coming in. I want to add a floodlight outside the front roll-up door, so I ran the wire and installed a 2-gang switch box by the door. We are expecting heavy rains for the next few days so my progress will be hit and miss. It just feels good to get this thing going!!:dance3:


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Thanks Bj,
It took me a while, but I actually did think of that earlier today. I ended up mounting the panel from the rear, so all four sides are available to run wires thru if needed. It is mounted between the side roll-up door and the center main post on that wall. (33" space) The panel is 14" wide. I didn't want to cover up any of the sides, so I ran the top horizontal support 4" above the panel, and the bottom horizontal support 2" below the panel. Once I run all the wires, I will cut a panel to span the 33" space and screw it in so it can be removed if needed. I like the way yours looks. Mine will be very similar.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Sounds good
Don't forget a good hvy.ground wire going down and out of the shop to a 3ft.long copper ground rod (1/2" diam.) 

Here's a little tip, copper ground wire is not cheap, you can make your own easy, cut off 2ea. 10 ft lines (#10 or #12 wire) strip the wire to get to the clean copper wires,once you have them chuck up a eye bolt in your drill,put the wires in the eye bolt and wind it up,don't make it to short, easy to cut off what you don't need but it's hard to make it longer  if your not to sure how long it needs to be just use a string, from the panel to the ground bar, than add 1/3 more to the string, it will get shorter once you wind it up.  that's to say once you have the string fold in half than add one more fold, than pull your tape out to get the right size..(use elec.tape to mark the string) 
=========



Capt Splinter said:


> Thanks Bj,
> It took me a while, but I actually did think of that earlier today. I ended up mounting the panel from the rear, so all four sides are available to run wires thru if needed. It is mounted between the side roll-up door and the center main post on that wall. (33" space) The panel is 14" wide. I didn't want to cover up any of the sides, so I ran the top horizontal support 4" above the panel, and the bottom horizontal support 2" below the panel. Once I run all the wires, I will cut a panel to span the 33" space and screw it in so it can be removed if needed. I like the way yours looks. Mine will be very similar.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Just caught up with you this AM. BJ is right on, try to keep codes in mind as you go, while aggravating their there to keep you safe. I like the plywood as Dan did it will make mounting things much easier. Keep up the good work it will be worth it.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

*Tired o moving stuff*



Capt Splinter said:


> it still is my primary storage space. So I've stuffed things in other places around the house, temporarily, but I still have to unload lots of stuff before I get started and fill it back up when I'm done for the day.


I've been in your shoes...... the good news it won't always be like that just don't let all that moving and moving it back get the best of you.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

That's going to be a nice shop space, George. Keep posting progress pix.


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## newwoodworker (Mar 27, 2009)

Capt Splinter said:


> Thanks for the advise Jim. While all this is going on, it still is my primary storage space. So I've stuffed things in other places around the house, temporarily, but I still have to unload lots of stuff before I get started and fill it back up when I'm done for the day. I'll get it done, but it just will take longer to do it than I want.
> 100% chance of rain all night, and 80% chance the next three days. :moil:


One of the hardest things for me to do as my wife calls me a "pack rat" when I decided I wanted a basement workshop was all the "storage" I had stuffed in there I did the same thing move it one place then move it back then move it again and again and again until finally I said screw this crap and stood back and looked at what I was storing, over half the stuff hadn't even seen the light of day for 3-4 years and the other stuff was just crap I would never use so I finally broke down went threw it all picked out the stuff I figured in the next year to come I might possibly use and the rest I got rid of. Was the best thing I ever done man.


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Hi Paul,
I'm doing that, too. So far, I've filled 3 garbage cans with stuff I "want" but really don't "need". For a pack-rat, it's not easy, but I'm seeing good progress.
The weather is not cooperating this week for building. Hope to pick up the pace after the new year.


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

Come on Cap you are not even trying. I through 15 bags a week out. But I have over 30 years of consumption.


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## newwoodworker (Mar 27, 2009)

Capt Splinter said:


> Hi Paul,
> For a pack-rat, it's not easy, but I'm seeing good progress.


I hear ya there, my problem was and really still is I hate the idea of throwing something away that I might use in the future the idea of throwing something out and then having to rebuy the same thing or a part or a piece of scrap that I end up having to cut a piece the same size out of a full board just erks me lol :moil:


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Been really busy lately, and the weather has been terrible. But I did manage to get the back wall of my shop closed in. Two walls down, two more to go.:moil:


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

*Lighting*

I've got an electrician friend who had four brand new 4 lamp flourescent fixtures a customer ordered for a job and decided they didn't want. He passed by today and gave them to me. Woo Hoo! My lucky day!

I've got all my underground electrical pipe buried from the shop to the house. All that's left is the two LB's at each end to enter thru the walls. I'm either going with #6 or #4 wire. Should have it next week and hope to have it installed by next weekend.

Also installed the floodlight over the side rollup door.

It's progressing, slowly but surely.:happy:


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

I buried 1-1/2" electrical conduit from my house panel over to my workshop probably six months ago, and both ends were taped off and sitting there. Finally got around to finishing both ends. The feed end comes up the wall and enters thru the brick with an LB directly into the back of the main panel for my house. The other end, came up outside the wall where I mounted the panel, and I cut a hole in the wall and installed another LB.
Should be getting the wire this week, and hope to have it installed this weekend. :laugh:


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

*Drawer Slides*

Taking a short break from framing in the last wall of my shop. Found a local place selling 3/4" birch ply sheets for $26 ea. I am making a 34"x35" base cabinet with 4 drawers, and a wall cabinet to go above.
I found some 28" full extension w/ 1" overtravel slides from Woodworker's Hardware for I think a good price. Anyone know of any other preferred sources for cabinet hardware?


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## jjciesla (Oct 20, 2007)

Woodcraft


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Lookin good, sometimes it seems things just go slower then we like, but we'll get there. 

BTW I have built a shop and am building the bath now, I take the shop any day, if you follow my drift!!


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Ordered 4 sets of 28" drawer slides. Waiting for them to come in.
Got my #6 feeder wire and pulled it thru the conduit today. Had a problem getting the fish tape thru three 90's and 100 feet of pipe. Ended up digging up the middle 90, and pulling it both ways from there. A bit of a pain, but its all done. Should have the new breakers and the panel hooked up next week.:yes2:


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

It is just a lot of work no matter how we try to plan in advance, looks like you are making progress though.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Capt Splinter said:


> Ordered 4 sets of 28" drawer slides. Waiting for them to come in.
> Got my #6 feeder wire and pulled it thru the conduit today. Had a problem getting the fish tape thru three 90's and 100 feet of pipe. Ended up digging up the middle 90, and pulling it both ways from there. A bit of a pain, but its all done. Should have the new breakers and the panel hooked up next week.:yes2:


Just a tip for others contemplating doing this. Take a bit of fishing line or other light string. Unspool the length of your conduit at one end. Tie a kleenex on the end of the line and stuff it in the conduit. Anchor the other end on something.

Use a shop vac at the opposite end with the end of the hose wrapped in a knee-high pantie hose. Suck the air out of the conduit and you'll have your string pulled through. Use it to pull some heavier string, then rope, then your wire. BTW, 90s can be a real pain to pull through so make sure your rope can take the tension.

#6 is not easy to bend when you can't get to it. Run your cable before you bury your conduit.


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

*Ready to order my tablesaw!!*

Woo Hoo!!!!:laugh:
I was feeling down that I haven't been able to do much in my shop lately. Then today, my boss hands me a bonus check!!!

Needless to say, I will buy my new tablesaw this weekend before the money goes to other "important" needs. I've narrowed it down to the Grizzly G0715P and the Steel City 35990C. Both are comparable in design and price. I would appreciate any last minute feedback before I pull the trigger.

I really like the Grizzly and am leaning towards it, but as always, am afraid of buyers remorse. If you had $800 to spend on a saw, what would be your choice?


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

I assume you have already picked your new TS and spent all your money and then some!  I don't believe you could go wrong with either saw.

I was hoping you were all but done with the shop when I saw this thread pop back up but am happy for your good fortune............ can't wait to see some more pics


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## reikimaster (Sep 29, 2005)

My shop got "buttoned up" for winter as I finished it late last year. Going out there now I'm deciding that I have my arrangement all wrong. I have one wall that divides the garden area (wife's stuff) from the workshop area (my stuff) and I designed it on purpose as a thick OSB wall with no outlets. THAT's where most of my storage should be. NOT on the other 3 walls which I've loaded with outlets split between 3 circuits. Makes PERFECT sense to move everything now, but last year when I was just trying to get stuff out of the garage and into the shop so I could at least work out there..... hind sight really is 20/20. 

I'm looking at this as an opportunity. I still have to insulate. So moving everything is necessary anyways.


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Look what showed up today! I'll be putting it together and giving it a good break-in this weekend. I installed my lights and hooked up the electrical panel since I last posted.
This past month, I've had to lay off the shop, because I am the Fair Committee chairman for my kids school. We just had our spring fair and raised almost $50,000. It was a record for us. It took all of my spare time and was alot of work, but also alot of fun. Now back to the shop.
At a later date, I'll try to do a review of the saw. So far, it came in perfect condition, and the manual is very straight forward and easy to understand.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Congratulations!

Ughhh..... Aren't you suppose to hand out cigars with the arrival of a new table saw? :lol:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Very nice present to self, George


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

*Nice shop and saw!! Have fun with it!! I to am in the middle of rearranging and getting a little more floor space. My shop is only 10 x 16, so every inch is important!! LOL Everything that wasn't wood working related got the boot!*


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Did the nickel test with 4 nickels spread around the table. Turned the saw on and off 5 times and none of them even wiggled! I really like this saw. :laugh:
Almost finished with the first wall cabinet. I used the Rockler shelf pin jig to drill the holes. I highly recommend it. Need to add a back on it and apply the finish. I have a quart of amber shellac with wax that is sitting on the shelf doing nothing. Put two coats on a scrap piece and I kind of like it. Just wondering what others think of finishing my shop cabinets with this. I know it isn't as durable as poly, but I figure if it chips, I can repair it easily.


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Nice Job George, I see You are in Louisiana so am I... If ya get a chance and it is not too far away check PMC Machinery in Hammond ..... I am in Grosse Tette/ Rosedale area if not too far maybe we can get together along with Lee (nawlins 77) talk shop or boil mudbugs


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Hi Warren,
I live about 7 miles from PMC Machinery. I was in there on friday drooling over all kinds of stuff. Love that place. Glad to hear there are more of us around here. I fly out of Moisant all the time.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Great progress on the shop it is looking really good. I am guessing but ceiling is pitched following the roof line right? If I am wrong and you have not pull all the wire I would suggest put a 4 outlet box above the tablesaw and one above the assembly table. 

I did and I am glad I did because it is nice when using a router and cutting circles. The cord stays up and away while your cutting the circling without get twisted or wrapped around your router. 

Great choice on using plywood on the walls. I did the same thing and love it. If oyu want to hang anything it is very easy. I used a wood stain to paint the walls it was cheap and brightens the shop up.


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Hi Dan,
I do have rafters that cross the room at about 9 ft. I have not closed in the ceiling yet, and I plan on running shop air thru the top with two retractable hose reels on each end of the shop and an electrical box on a retractable reel in the middle.
Just finish the first wall shelf unit. I didn't put doors on it yet because I still have about a million other things to do. But once everything is in place, I plan on going back and putting doors on everything to minimize the dust. It's 3/4" birch ply with 2 coats of amber shellac. I learned alot about what NOT to do when applying a finish on this one. Glad its just a shop cabinet. Is it possible to spray shellac? I have a cheap little spray gun, and would like to try.
By the way, what's the best stuff to run shop air with? Thinking about 3/4" schedule 40 pvc. Any suggestions?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

When you say shop air are you refering to compressed air? If so I ran regular gas fitting pipe 3/4". One of the moderators "Jim" has a good setup with an air dryer unit. I just use small air compressor and put in a drain consisting of a simple hose valave which I can open to let out the water if any is there.


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Thanks Dan. Yes, I want to run my compressor line up into the ceiling above the rafters and to two retractable reels so as to have shop air easily available from anywhere in there. One of the reels would be close to the overhead door so I could pull the hose down and out the door if necessary.
I'll try to find Jim's setup and see how he did it.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Capt Splinter said:


> Thanks Dan. Yes, I want to run my compressor line up into the ceiling above the rafters and to two retractable reels so as to have shop air easily available from anywhere in there. One of the reels would be close to the overhead door so I could pull the hose down and out the door if necessary.
> I'll try to find Jim's setup and see how he did it.


George:

if you're going to run your line through an uninsulated space, make sure you dry the air _before_ it gets to the line. Ice can build up in a line quite quickly.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Capt Splinter said:


> Hi Warren,
> I live about 7 miles from PMC Machinery. I was in there on friday drooling over all kinds of stuff. Love that place. Glad to hear there are more of us around here. I fly out of Moisant all the time.


*Well I'm coming your way tomorrow George! I live across the lake and river, in Marrero. Yep Warren, I'm finally going to make it out there at PMC. I have a job in Hammond, down the other side of 190. Almost in Tickfaw. Can't wait to see the place and do some drooling, and spending, of my own! LOL *


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Ron, thanks for the advise. I'll remember that when I get to running the lines.

Lee, glad your coming north. You'll like PMC. I'd meet you there, but I'm leaving tomorrow morning for Boston. Have to catch you on the next one. Enjoy!


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

George,

Dan asked me to post the link to my air compressor thread. You'll find it here...

http://www.routerforums.com/diy-renovation/22752-air-compressor-upgrade-air-tools.html

It's definitely an over-the-top setup with a particulate filter, a coalescing filter and a desiccant filter that is purported to remove moisture down to -20F (depending on flow). 

My Son and I built an air cooler that cools the air after it leaves the compressor and before it enters the tank. Warm air holds a lot more moisture than cool air so you'd like it near room temperature before extracting the water.

We added this after some pneumatic sanding tests demonstrated that the outside of even that large 60 gal steel tank heated significantly (100*F+) after 60 minutes of sanding. After adding it, even after 90 minutes of sanding the tank didn't feel warm at all.

Desiccant filters are commonly used in spray paint setups and in places like Alaska in control systems.

FYI, I've attached sole info on the filters I used. These are 1/2", larger than needed for most compressor setups.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

*Well I indeed made it and totally in awe of the place!! To bad you were going out of town George! Next time we'll shop and then do lunch! May be Warren can come on over too! 

Dang, do I love that place!! I'm just SOOO glad it's across the lake from me. Other wise I'd brake the bank at that place. And shoot, it isn't for just the hobbiest, they have some serious equipment in there!!! I ended up spending a little over a hundred bucks. I got two jig clamps, 2 5/16 butterfly through-hole knobs, 2 (1/2" shank) router bits, and a 7 piece forstner bit set. 

If I can keep it down to around 100 bucks per visit, I'll be doing good!! Thank goodness I don't make it across the lake but 2 or 3 times a year! *


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

*Dado Jig*

Haven't had much time for the shop lately, but I had to do something with my new saw. I built a dado jig just to see how the saw worked and how easily the dado set stacked. I'll hang this on the wall for future use. And yes, that is saw dust on the table saw!! :dance3:


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Capt Splinter said:


> Haven't had much time for the shop lately, but I had to do something with my new saw. I built a dado jig just to see how the saw worked and how easily the dado set stacked. I'll hang this on the wall for future use. And yes, that is saw dust on the table saw!! :dance3:


Hey George:

I thought you said there was saw dust there. Where? All I see is imagination. Nice jig for the dados though.:lol:


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Finally got a few days to play in the shop. Had a friend over yesterday and he helped me make a cut off sled for the table saw. I really like how well it works. Got all four of the drawers of my cabinet to the dry fit stage. Waiting for the next cool front to come thru on thursday so when the humidity drops, I will attempt to spray some poly on the insides of the drawers before I glue them up. I've never attempted to spray poly so I hope this goes well. 
Cleaned more stuff out of the shop, and now I have access to the last wall to be framed in. Hope to finish the cabinet this weekend, and frame in the wall next week.
Here are a few pics of the drawers ready to be assembled.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi George:

How are you going to keep the poly off your joints? Will your glue work with poly? I'd do the complete glueup then spray the poly. Why spray with poly?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Capt Splinter said:


> Finally got a few days to play in the shop. Had a friend over yesterday and he helped me make a cut off sled for the table saw. I really like how well it works. Got all four of the drawers of my cabinet to the dry fit stage. Waiting for the next cool front to come thru on thursday so when the humidity drops, I will attempt to spray some poly on the insides of the drawers before I glue them up. I've never attempted to spray poly so I hope this goes well.
> Cleaned more stuff out of the shop, and now I have access to the last wall to be framed in. Hope to finish the cabinet this weekend, and frame in the wall next week.
> Here are a few pics of the drawers ready to be assembled.


Hi George - looks good. Ron has a point though. You will want to tape off the joints before hitting it with the poly. I wouldn't tape off the whole glue area, just shy of where the finish will start. Doesn't take much glue to hold a lock rabbet together and any squeeze out will be a snap to clean.


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Looking good, I would do the glue up first also....Spraying on the poly is easy just make sure to apply in thin light coats it is very easy to apply to heavy ....Good Luck and keep up the good work


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Ron, don't really have a reason to spray the poly except I want to try it. Today I taped off all the glue joints on two of the drawers and sprayed the pieces seperately. The other two drawers, I will assemble then spray afterwards. Just to see the difference. Hope to have all four drawers done and installed tomorrow.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Capt Splinter said:


> Ron, don't really have a reason to spray the poly except I want to try it. Today I taped off all the glue joints on two of the drawers and sprayed the pieces seperately. The other two drawers, I will assemble then spray afterwards. Just to see the difference. Hope to have all four drawers done and installed tomorrow.


Hi George:

Thanks for the insight. Let me know what your thoughts are please. It will be interesting to hear objectives and results. I'm particularly interested in how smooth the surface is once complete. 

Ron


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Ron,
It was definately easier to spray the pieces before assembly. Laying the pieces flat on a table was my preferred method. It did take an extra step to tape off the glue joints, but spraying down inside the drawers was a bit of a pain. These drawers are 15" tall, 22" wide, and 28" deep, so it wasn't so bad, but any smaller and I would definately spray first. As you see in the previous pics, I just used blue painters tape in the joints and it peeled right out after spraying.
As far as the smoothness of finish, I really couldn't say, because I got impatient and only put on one coat. Like I said earlier, I didn't really need to spray them in the first place, as this will be a shop storage cabinet. I just wanted to try spraying something with my new gun.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Capt Splinter said:


> I just wanted to try spraying something with my new gun.


Sorry, I missed the most important part.


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Well, just realized it was May the last time I posted to this thread. I changed jobs in May and its been a real roller coaster ever since. After looking thru this thread again, I have quite a few things to share. 
Pic 1-I finished my wall cabinet and filled it up with loose hardware. Still plan on putting a set of doors on it and painting it to match the other cabinets I have made.
Pic 2-A friend was throwing out this base cabinet, so I grabbed it and painted it. I replaced the hardware and installed a Lowes 6' prefab counter. Added a sink and plumbing and viola, I now have a sink in the shop. Eventually, I plan on adding a tankless water heater underneath the cabinet and hooking up the ice machine next to it.
Pic 3 & 4-This is a wall cabinet I made from scratch. It was my first attempt at making a face frame and doors. Installed an extra 4' flourescent fixture I had underneath. Really lights up the counter well.
Pic 5-My little work bench is finally out from under a mountain of crap and has become a work bench again.  You can also see the window unit air conditioner I installed in the wall. 
Pic 6-This is the center of the shop with the table saw and the miter saw table I use as an outfeed table. I plan on building a side table to the cabinet and mounting the miter saw so the bed is the same height as the top. I will also paint it to match other cabinets and add a white formica top to match the sink cabinet.
Pic 7, 8, & 9-Recently gave in to the urge to buy a bench sander. I will make a shelf against the back wall of shop to mount it to and have all sanding materials located with it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Capt

Nice shop  I sure like your sink I sure miss the one I had It's a stainless one with two holes that I got out of the trash can, but I used it for cleaning auto parts a bit of a kitchen tank from a commercial kitchen, saw dust and auto parts just don't mix well so it's out back of the garage for now.. 

==



Capt Splinter said:


> Well, just realized it was May the last time I posted to this thread. I changed jobs in May and its been a real roller coaster ever since. After looking thru this thread again, I have quite a few things to share.
> Pic 1-I finished my wall cabinet and filled it up with loose hardware. Still plan on putting a set of doors on it and painting it to match the other cabinets I have made.
> Pic 2-A friend was throwing out this base cabinet, so I grabbed it and painted it. I replaced the hardware and installed a Lowes 6' prefab counter. Added a sink and plumbing and viola, I now have a sink in the shop. Eventually, I plan on adding a tankless water heater underneath the cabinet and hooking up the ice machine next to it.
> Pic 3 & 4-This is a wall cabinet I made from scratch. It was my first attempt at making a face frame and doors. Installed an extra 4' flourescent fixture I had underneath. Really lights up the counter well.
> ...


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## jody495 (Sep 11, 2011)

I also have a ridged bench top sander. When sanding the outside of bowls i make with my router it does a great job. start out with 40 grit belts to rough it in close then go to 120 grit to finish sanding.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Nice work Capt. It is good to see people re-using things instead of buying new. Shop is shaping up very nicely. Let me know how you like the Rigid Sander. I have had my eye on it for a long time now.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Looking good George! And that window unit is an important tool here in south Louisiana!!


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Dan,
I have to be very careful because my pack-rat ways are what got me into this mess in the first place. :lol: I just couldn't walk away from that cabinet though.

I have only used the sander in the "belt" mode so far, not the spindle mode. But I have to say, I like it alot. Right out of the box, the table was about 2 degrees from square with the sander. (I used my Wixey digital angle box to check) Easy enough to adjust, but the preset angle bracket won't line up now. Will have to modify the bracket, or take it to the shop for them to fix. Nice thing is that this unit comes with Ridgid's lifetime service agreement and the authorized repair shop is an easy drive from me. Don't know that I will even worry about it. With the little digital Wixey, I will always check angle before I use it anyway.

Lee,
Got that right about the a/c! With all the wall insulation complete, I can turn on the window unit and in about 20 minutes, it's very comfortable. My wife wasn't sure I needed to buy that, but it's some of the best money I've spent yet.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"I have to be very careful because my pack-rat ways are what got me into this mess in the first place"
Ah, that may explain the ice-maker on casters (image#2).


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

WOW - Ice maker, air conditioner, sink, ...where's the bar???? 
It's looking very good! I have the Rigid sander too... love it. It works just as well in spindle mode.


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

You have no idea the amount of jealousy I hold.


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Mines too George. First mines a lot smaller, 10x16, but it's well insulated. Attic, and walls have the pink stuff (Owens) and I've got 3 layers of tar paper (left over from roof) between my sub-floor and my 1/2" plywood floor. It takes me about 10 minutes on high and I'm lowering it to low speed on low cool.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Capt Splinter said:


> Dan,
> Got that right about the a/c! With all the wall insulation complete, I can turn on the window unit and in about 20 minutes, it's very comfortable. My wife wasn't sure I needed to buy that, but it's some of the best money I've spent yet.


One of the few smart things I've done in the shop is insulate the walls and throw an A.C. window unit in the shop for the summer and a portable heater for the winter. Your shop is really evolving and has me envious in your progress!..... yeah where is the bar?


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Thanks for the comments guys. I did also get a 220v portable construction heater that plugs into my dedicated generator outlet for when we lose electricity. Generator plug to feed the shop and house during hurricane season, and heater power during the winter.

Picked up the Rockler dust collector on sale a few months back and mounted it to an old overhead projector stand that my kids' school was getting rid of.

You can see them in this picture. And yes, that is the cat's favorite spot in the word to take a nap. Doesn't matter how much noise I make, she stays right there.

The bar will be my assembly table, and hope to have a small dorm fridge sitting on top of ice machine when all is hooked up. :dance3:


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## jody495 (Sep 11, 2011)

have fun in your new shop. i have a 1 car garage shop so im sure you will turn out some nice work.


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## jody495 (Sep 11, 2011)

you might want to add some dust collection.


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Been on the road alot lately, so haven't had much time to continue with shop. But here are a few pics of a shelf I made to secure my new sander to.
Saw a picture of this in a magazine and I built it to fit the base of the sander. It's made with 3/4" birch ply and pocket screws. Then I added a hose and secured it to the side of the shelf so I could plug in my dust collector. I ordered drawer slides two days ago and when they come in, (gotta love free shipping ) I will build a drawer to fit in the space underneath. All sandpaper, blocks, etc. will go in that drawer and be in one spot instead of three!!
I will also build a smaller version of this to mount my grinder to.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

George; it's done now but a really simple way to pull wire is to use monofilament fishline with a very soft, light, thingy on one end...big enough to gently fill the diameter of the pipe...a piece of plastic bag would work. Hook your shop-vac up to the other end of the pipe...no gaps! Feed your fishline in; no hay problema!
I just pulled a 125' length of 12/3/1 NMD10 through a 3/4" pipe, which snaked a bit underground. Braided nylon line pulled in with the fishline, and a boat trailer winch completed the job. (I'd been procrastinating doing this project for two years, until somebody casually mentioned the shop-vac trick  )


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Very cool Dan. Wish I would have know that trick myself when I dug up my yard again. It's great the kinds of help and suggestions you can get from this forum.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Sorry I wasn't able save you the trouble.
The other learning experience was the boat winch...
2,500 lb 2-Speed Reversible Hand Winch | Princess Auto
All these years I've been using a come-along for moving stuff; the winch is my new best friend!


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Just spent a few days up in Anchorage with work. Almost able to catch up with Jim(BigJimAK) Hope to take you up on that beer next time I'm up there. :laugh:

Just had time to make the drawer for my sanding shelf. It's 3/4" birch ply with 1/2" bottom. I actually installed it but forgot to take a picture of it in place.

On the road again, so it will have to wait till I get home.


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## badmanmyy (Mar 11, 2012)

I need to build an extra workshop, my cars and car parts take up most of my garage


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## Flint54 (Sep 26, 2011)

Well I am getting much closer to my BIG project. My old 12x16 shed has no roof, the floor is rotted out. This shed came with the house and has been around since 1967. I tried re-roofing it quite a few years back @ 95 or so but several noreasters, hurricanes and tropical storms have finished it off. Now I am tearing it down and building a new 12 x 32. Destruction should begin in a couple of weeks, then the leveling of @ 50 blocks in ground/crush n run etc. followed by 4x4 skids then the floor framing etc. Just waiting on the final outcome of the estate closing and disbursement. I'll then post pics as I go. One big change is that my flooring will be joists on 12" centers. Don't think the floor will sag a bit!


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

Flint54 said:


> Well I am getting much closer to my BIG project. My old 12x16 shed has no roof, the floor is rotted out. This shed came with the house and has been around since 1967. I tried re-roofing it quite a few years back @ 95 or so but several noreasters, hurricanes and tropical storms have finished it off. Now I am tearing it down and building a new 12 x 32. Destruction should begin in a couple of weeks, then the leveling of @ 50 blocks in ground/crush n run etc. followed by 4x4 skids then the floor framing etc. Just waiting on the final outcome of the estate closing and disbursement. I'll then post pics as I go. One big change is that my flooring will be joists on 12" centers. Don't think the floor will sag a bit!


Why not 20x32? You won't regret it.


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

*Miter Saw stand*

Still forgot to take a picture of the completed sanding station with drawer installed and painted. I'll do that this weekend and post.
The next project I did was a side table for my miter saw to sit on. It's very simple, but works well. I still need to mount the removable fence, and secure the shims under the saw, but that will have to wait till I install the formica top to the table.
Pic 1 shows box without legs. Pic 2 is bottom of legs with inserts and bolts I installed as levelers. Pic 3 is the saw as it will sit when all is painted and finished.


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

*Lumber Storage rack*

Already got tired of roll-around lumber storage rack I built. It always seemed to be in the way. Had a friend come by and we built the storage rack you see in Woodsmith Shop. Takes up way less room, and I even built a cut-off storage bin next to it. I use top of cut-off bin to plug in battery chargers.
Pics 1 & 2 are of old rack. Pics 3,4,&5 are cutting out the pieces. Pic 6 is drilling the adjustment holes on horizontal stays that mount to wall. Pic 7 is my friend Mike showing off our work.


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Pic 8 is horizontal stays mounted with two of three vertical risers installed. Pic 9 shows the dowels that you install so that the vertical risers don't slide when you pull on a board. You remove the dowel to reposition riser if you have shorter stock to store. Pic 10 shows me adding a strengthening lip to bottom shelf since it comes out 16". Pics 17 & 18 are the finished product.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

looks like you are making great progress!

you might find this intereading ...

AW Extra - Hyper-Organize Your Shop - The Woodworker's Shop - American Woodworker

that is the approach i am trying to take with my shop


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## Capt Splinter (Dec 30, 2008)

Hi Chris,
Looked at your link for the hyper organized shop. That's my goal to get that organized. But realistically, I know I'll never get there. I did see lots of great ideas. Thanks for sharing.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Floored*



Flint54 said:


> Well I am getting much closer to my BIG project. My old 12x16 shed has no roof, the floor is rotted out. This shed came with the house and has been around since 1967. I tried re-roofing it quite a few years back @ 95 or so but several noreasters, hurricanes and tropical storms have finished it off. Now I am tearing it down and building a new 12 x 32. Destruction should begin in a couple of weeks, then the leveling of @ 50 blocks in ground/crush n run etc. followed by 4x4 skids then the floor framing etc. Just waiting on the final outcome of the estate closing and disbursement. I'll then post pics as I go. One big change is that my flooring will be joists on 12" centers. Don't think the floor will sag a bit!


Bob; had you considered simply poring a concrete floor? You can do the wall /footing/floor in one pour. Last you a lifetime and won't break the bank.
The Advantages of a Monolithic Pour Concrete | eHow.com
I just did one, on a slope, 8' x 14' x 2' of exposed wall on the downhill side ...3 meters of concrete cost $560 delivered. Another $150 for a couple of guys to wheelbarrow and pour. (I already had the form lumber and vapour barrier.)
Cheers,
-Dan


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## Flint54 (Sep 26, 2011)

This project is sized and designed within the limits of the local "In City Limits" restrictions. I wish that I could pour a floor, but, I would need to get rid of a large shade tree and then remove all roots to a depth of 2 feet. Bring in new fill etc. Total estimate for this was @ 3K plus another 1000 for taking out the tree. The size of 12x32 is under 400 sqft that is the largest non-permanent structure allowed. Due to the costs stated above is why the building is what it is.:blink:


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Ahh! The bureaucratic Catch-22! I should have guessed.
Here, the 'free-pass' is 10sq. meters (about 107+' ); no permit required and no inspections. The Bldg. Inspectors have a very laid back attitude toward minor overages.
When I built my house extension, the plans clearly showed the oversized outbuildings. 
Nobody was interested. 
Good Luck with the new shop!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Bob; my shop is 12' x 27' and I hate the narrowness! 20' x 20' would also give you the 400sq.' without the inconvenience of working in the 12' confined space. If I had my choices I'd most definitely build my shop wider. Did I mention that I hate the narrowness...


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## Flint54 (Sep 26, 2011)

I also need to maintain eavesements from lot lines, home and stay away from septic, lines & drain fields. Could only go 13 wide at most due to all the above. Tried for a variance to go 14 wide but no go. So I will have to live with it being a bit narrow. 

Down the road after a few septic changes I will also be building another. This one will be 16x16. But this is @ 5 years away.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

With GoogleEarth, the days of sneaking in a non-conforming structure are pretty much over.


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## Flint54 (Sep 26, 2011)

That is what the Health Department used as a basis for their permit for me. Can't sneak anything by them or City Hall! They all have their hands out. Now I have to finish the drawings for the City to get the building permit. But before I get the permit they need to know the cost so they can charge me the correct fee. No estimates - need a receipt for the materials as evidence for the permit. So far materials will be @ 23-2800 I am estimating. Will be a bit over built due to storms we get out here in NC. Only 20 miles from Nags Head as the seagull flies so those pesky noreasters and hurricanes sometimes spoil the day! hehehe


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

?!... how do you acquire a receipt for material that you haven't purchased yet because you don't have a permit? 
What if they reject the plan after you've bought the material? No contractor is going to go out and buy all the material for a project before it even starts up, in order to satisfy a ridiculous rule like that. You have my sympathy.
My Permit guys up here want a ballpark guesstimate for the cost of a project; they've been doing it long enough that they know when you're fudging the numbers.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Bob; my shop is 12' x 27' and I hate the narrowness! 20' x 20' would also give you the 400sq.' without the inconvenience of working in the 12' confined space. If I had my choices I'd most definitely build my shop wider. Did I mention that I hate the narrowness...


hey, how do you feel about the narrowness? my guess is that you would prefer a longer, narrower setup, but that is just a guess.

:fie:


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## Flint54 (Sep 26, 2011)

I don't have much say in how wide or narrow it will be. As I stated due to all the regs and distance requirements where it has to go the widest that I can go is 13 feet. I'm not going to go over 12 feet unless I can go 14 or 16 but that is out of the question. I'll just HAVE TO accept 12 feet for the width. I wish that I could but can't. I've also had a garage that was 12 foot in width. I didn't ever have a problem with anything I ever made so I don't think that this time it will be a problem. I'll just have to watch how wide I make any benches attached to the wall if any at all. I think that I'll keep the benches mobile so they will not cut into the width of the space.

As far as the building permit. They will look at my plans & material lists. They then give me a temp approval and full approval upon getting the material receipt, they need this as that is how they charge for the permit. So much for the basic permit and then 15 per 1000 in materials. So if you have 1999.oo invested the permit is the base charge plus 30.oo if it is 2001.oo it would be base plus 45.oo. They get ya each way.

I am putting my radial arm on one end with hatches/windows on either side to allow stock to run outside as needed. I only use a small contractor table saw now and then along with a miter & compound miter, router, scroll saw, 14" band saw, 4" jointer, router & table, 12" planer, bench top drill press and lathe. Plus all the hand tools, power tools etc. Dust collector will be in an exterior addition to the shop and there will be overhead storage area as the roof will be an 8/12 pitch. This will give me 4 feet in the center of the roof peak. I think it will work out. Will just have to also put wall cabinets on end away from the actual work area and/or keep them up above working area and 14 - 18" deep at the most.


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## Ironman50 (Jun 5, 2012)

You have a systematic arrangement of your shop. It is also nice and clean. Undoubtedly, product of hard work and passion.


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## sophiaedward123 (Jul 12, 2012)

Good that you have started with your new workshop. Cheers!!


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