# Newbie - about to do first big routing project



## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

Hello all, I'm a newbie - thus the introductory thread - and am about to start a new project which will be router heavy. I would love to ask questions about it, by posting a link to what i want to build, and getting feedback on the best way to do that. (but i need 10 posts before i can do that)

I'm making night stands. But these aren't the typical ones. I saw this designer who created art out of wood. He made cinderblock shaped bricks out of wood!. the coolest looking stuff i've seen. I called and asked he sells them, and he does. For way too much money then i can afford. Plus, they were rather small. I want to recreate them, but making them bigger.

the size will be 10" wide x 10" deep x 20" high. To get the depth, I'm using 2" thick Poplar wood. Planed, and cut and looking awesome. (i wanted to buy use dark walnut, but that would have cost me 500 just for the wood for TWO wooden bricks- too much)

So the big routing template question i have is....whats the best way for me to make a template to cut the inside holes out of each piece? I'm making 10" wide x 2" thick x 20" high cinderblock pieces, with the two cinderblockesque holes cut out and gluing and clamping 5 of them together to make a 10" thick wooden cinderblock. 

I plan on using a 2" router bit to cut out the holes. But need the template to be perfect, and solid, so that i have minimal sanding to do. I'll have to sand the outside and inside of each brick. And don't want to do too much. How can i and how should i do it?

any suggestions? (plus, i need to get 10 posts so i can post links and images to make this way easier to understand)

thanks for anyone's (everyone's) help.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

*Hello PhillyGuy*

Welcome You have come to the right place I am not sure as to what these blocks are for. You may have to check out the search feature, and do a little posting. If i wanted to make a template, i would make it from 1/4 in hardboard. Any rough edges are sanded down, and made as smooth as possible The router should be fitted with a guide bushing of the proper size. The router is guided around the template, the bushing sliding on the holes that were cut on the template. The blocks should need very little sanding of the holes, and are ready to be glued together. The question i have is, giving the price of wood, can they be made as a box, as apposed to a brick.PLEASE FILL OUT THE PROFILE, SO WE KNOW YOUR NAME.


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

thanks for the reply. I'm actually really looking forward to getting some ideas about this.
I really want to do this as a brick (cinderblock, with the two holes in the middle) for storage, and just because it looks different. And I already bought the wood, which wasn't that expensive.

i'm going to try and say go to this site sergiosilva.us and scroll down to the bottom wooden one. that's what i want to recreate.

but how do you suggest making the template? with a router? drawing the cut out square holes with rounded corners, then drilling the corner with a wide round drill bit to get a nice even rounded corner, then using a jigsaw to cut the straight lines? i'm kinda stuck in how i'm going to make the template actually. and what the best way is to make it with perfectly straight lines, and even rounded corners.

thanks for you help. i appreciate it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Mike

A picture is always worth a 1000 words, post the address without the url call and I will post the url link for you..

i.e. google.com , note no url call 

========



PhillyGuy said:


> Hello all, I'm a newbie - thus the introductory thread - and am about to start a new project which will be router heavy. I would love to ask questions about it, by posting a link to what i want to build, and getting feedback on the best way to do that. (but i need 10 posts before i can do that)
> 
> I'm making night stands. But these aren't the typical ones. I saw this designer who created art out of wood. He made cinderblock shaped bricks out of wood!. the coolest looking stuff i've seen. I called and asked he sells them, and he does. For way too much money then i can afford. Plus, they were rather small. I want to recreate them, but making them bigger.
> 
> ...


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

bob, thanks.

the link is sergiosilva.us 

not .com or .net, its .us.

and scroll down to the last thing on the page. The wooden cinderblocks on the bottom.

let me know if you get that link to work

thanks


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

thanks bob. 

try this sergiosilva.us
with the www before that.

scroll down to the bottom of the page and click on the wooden cinderblocks.

thanks

_mm


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

try this - sergiosilva.us

scroll down to the bottom, and view the wooden cinderblock.

thanks Bob.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

Here you go 

http://sergiosilva.us/images/block4.jpg
http://sergiosilva.us/

Mike take a look at the link below, this maybe away to get it done without dropping a ton of money/

http://www.routerforums.com/project-plans-how/12516-hpl-job.html

==========


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Hello Mike. I think that you are helped out, but the template is used to make a certain shape, or curved cut and it is followed with the collar rubbing the template, and cutting the shaped form on your project. Once the template is made, you can make 1, or 1000 pieces that is an exact duplicate of the first. The template can be cut with a jig saw, or a band saw. Every cut is made just a little proud, or on the outside of the mark, then sanded smooth, or every small defect is transfered to the project board. Bob is one of the best fellas as far as knowledge is concerned, I'm the guy who would like to know a little more


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

wow, that's a great link Bob, thanks.
And thanks for posting the links for me. (sorry for the triple reply post. I replied before, and it popped up right away. Then the others, but they didn't pop up at all. so i kind of kept replying till one stuck. sorry)

Anyway, the link you attached is great, however...since i already purchased the wood, and am pretty set on making it look just like the wooden ones did in the link you (and I) provided, i still am not sure how to make the template. 

Howard, that's what i thought about doing, once the template is done, i would just router each finished piece (all ten of them) with the router collar rubbing against the template. And you'll have to forgive me, but i'm not really familiar with all the wood working terminology. yet. So if i ask some silly questions and am not sure what some of the names you guys use mean, don't be mad. ha.

I'm still not quite sure how to go about cutting the inside rounded corners of each hole, and then what is the best way to cut the straight lines. I don't have a band saw. And using a jigsaw, i am a little worried that the blade jumps around too much it won't be a perfect cut. but since i'll use 3/8 inch plywood for the template, maybe it will be fine? 

Also, since each piece of wood is 2" thick, and i don't want to have to router each hole with 3 passes, i was going to cut out the holes with a jig saw but not up to the final edge line. I was going to leave about .25" for the routering. Figured that would make it easier for me to router, and also, be easier ON the router motor and bit.

Any brand of router bits you guys recommend?

thanks for your help. appreciate it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

You will need a LONG bit if you are going to use the blocks of wood,, with a brass guide you should get the job done..

Check Out HarrySin /Template Tom post of the forum, they will should you how to make the templates in the posted items..

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-3-B...ts?hash=item140308064154&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14

======



PhillyGuy said:


> wow, that's a great link Bob, thanks.
> And thanks for posting the links for me. (sorry for the triple reply post. I replied before, and it popped up right away. Then the others, but they didn't pop up at all. so i kind of kept replying till one stuck. sorry)
> 
> Anyway, the link you attached is great, however...since i already purchased the wood, and am pretty set on making it look just like the wooden ones did in the link you (and I) provided, i still am not sure how to make the template.
> ...


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Looking at the grain direction and the edges and corners of the original pieces, I'm guessing the outside surface is actually veneer, carefully mitered along the edges, or simply trimmed with care. The photos aren't detailed enough to tell with certainty. If the originals were made of solid wood, there would be some sort of joints showing at the corners, and at the junction of the center strut to the sides. Plus, the grain direction would vary between the surfaces. 

Using veneer, it becomes fairly simple. Construct an open box with dados for the cross piece. Glue it together, then add 1/4 round molding in the corners. Sand all of that very smooth, and then add the veneer.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings Mike. I would welcome you to the forum, but it seems that you are already well welcomed!


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

welcome to the forum Mike


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

thanks everyone for the feedback, and the welcome.

Ralph, you don't think that the blocks are made out of solid 1.5"-2" thick pieces of wood glued together? To me the end grains look like regular crosscut walnut. no?

if that's veneer, and "faked", then damn, that guy is good. Because it looks real. ha.

Well, since i bought the 2" thick poplar (going to stain it dark), i think i'm going to go ahead and do it the hard way. Solid wood, with routering the holes out. Making it tough for myself, i know. But at this point i'm determined to make it out of solid wood. Stubborn, i know. ha.

Bob-thanks for the link to the 3" router bit. However, that one doesn't have a guide that's flush with the edge. If i don't find a router bit that has a guide on the top of the bit that is flush with the blade of the bit, whats the best way to make the template then? would i have to make the template to the outside edge of the the router?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

here's a link to the bits with the bearing on the top, but using a guide, its just as easy, see Harry Sin post to see how to make the templates.

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/12589-difference-between-jig-fixture-4.html

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-3-E...h=item130294456880&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-2-1...h=item130293725612&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262



=========



PhillyGuy said:


> thanks everyone for the feedback, and the welcome.
> 
> Ralph, you don't think that the blocks are made out of solid 1.5"-2" thick pieces of wood glued together? To me the end grains look like regular crosscut walnut. no?
> 
> ...


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Mike:

These are indeed interesting. Ok, proceedure - 

1. using a proper square and ruler and compasses, draw in full scale the side view (the one with the holes) of the size you wish to make. Make sure it is exact. 

2. make several exact copies of your pattern. Take a piece of masonite and glue on one of your patterns to the smooth side of the masonite.

3. using a drill and jig saw remove most of the material up to but not touching your pattern lines.

4. using a very sharp exacto or olfa knife (extremely sharp utility knife - like a razor blade) begin to carve that last tiny bit to your line. Using a sanding block sand the edge until it is perfectly square. You want to sand up to the line but do not remove the line. When you sand the final pieces, you want a certain amount of "play" so you can sand out any imperfections.

5. you don't have to use thick pieces of wood. You can achieve excellent and artistic results using combinations of thin or thick or both woods. To give you an idea, I would collect skids and use the hardwoods to layer this up. This becomes a lamination project and part of the beauty could come from the randomness of the layering. I would be cautious using softwoods, each will finish differently. Some plantation pine will be particularly problematic.

6. joint, plane and cut your blanks as close to the finished size as you can while leaving some material for sanding etc.

7. lock your template on your blanks using clamps, or double-stick tape, screws or any method you wish. Remember, all the screw holes can be concealed inside. Personally, I would use a #4x3/4" screw and drill shallow pilot holes in the work piece.

8. using a _top_ bearing bit (a really good one) remove the center portion of the workpiece. With the top bearing bit, you'll want to elevate the workpiece off the worksurface. You want to allow the bit to pass through your stock and use the bearing on the masonite. You're going to be taking one large cut at a time so be prepared to be patient and allow the bit to work. I would daresay that Mr. Silva would have used a jig saw to remove the majority of the material and then used a bearing bit to clean it up. You might experiment with the same thing.

9. deburr, clean, laminate, sand and finish appropriately.

This is a lot of grunt work, whether you're using thick or thin material, its a lot of repetition. Don't do it all at once. When you find your mind starting to wander, quit before you hurt yourself. You'll need your full faculties concentrating on this one. You're going to quickly find out why Mr. Silva wants $500 per brick. It's worth it just in the pain relief.

Allthunbs


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

Bob,

whoa, i checked out the link to Harry sin's template making, and I'm not going to lie..that looks super confusing to me! ha. But i guess making jigs, or fixtures, or templates isn't exactly super easy.

I was thinking of cutting the inside rounded corners for the jig with a big hole saw bit. like a 3" one or something. Depending on how big i wanted to radius to be. Then doing the straight cuts with a jig saw against some guide i set up. OR trying to cut the straight edge some other way. Then sanding it all down to be smooth. Think that will work?


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

NICE, thanks Ron, that was some of the thinking i had in mind to make the template. But all the other steps you wrote in there are perfect. I definitely agree that its going to be tedius, and scary, if i don't concentrate. 

But thanks so much.

I just have to find the really good top bearing drill bit now.

I'm going to


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Don't get a drill bit, it only cuts holes. The router bit is sharpened on the fluke, or the edge, and the point end


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

PhillyGuy said:


> Ralph, you don't think that the blocks are made out of solid 1.5"-2" thick pieces of wood glued together? To me the end grains look like regular crosscut walnut. no?
> 
> if that's veneer, and "faked", then damn, that guy is good. Because it looks real. ha.


I could easily be wrong, but the ends of the blocks look like face grain to me, not end grain, since the color is virtually the same as the sides. End grain would typically be darker, and not show the same directionality. Also, if glued-up from 6/4 or 8/4 stock, I'd expect to see more obvious differences in the grain pattern on the sides.

Plus, at $16-$20/board foot for walnut, I couldn't imagine turning most of it into waste. 

None of my comments, however, are intended to dissuade you from proceeding as you have planned.


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

dutchman 46 said:


> Don't get a drill bit, it only cuts holes. The router bit is sharpened on the fluke, or the edge, and the point end



Yea, sorry, i meant to say "i need to find a really good top bearing router bit" my bad.

the drill bit - hole saw bit - was just for me to make the exact rounded corners on the template, or jig.


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

Ralph, so this doesn't look like solid wood grain?
I'm still thinking it is. The end grain looks real to me. Am i this naive and new to woodworking that i'm easily fooled by this? ha

And yea, when i went to buy the walnut, i found a guy who was selling it for $11/ board foot, and it came out to 440 for all the wood i needed. And i'm going to use the waist for legs for a platform bed, so it wouldn't have been all waist, but i know exactly what you mean. I went with poplar instead, and will stain it dark.

(Finally, 10 posts, i can upload images now. So check out these three photos. One of them is what Bob put up for me already)


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Hi Mike,

those are pretty cool...It sure looks like solid wood to me too! 

It looks like he routed the cutouts into five seperate pieces and then glued the five pieces together.

I don't know what you have on hand as far as template guides and cutters, but if I was to do it I would use a 1.5" diameter template guide with a .5" cutter and a simple jig to make the cutouts. I would make the template just like you described with a hole saw for the radius in the four corners and then a jig saw for the straight cuts to connect them. The template would need to be .5" bigger on all sides for this guide/cutter combination, so if I wanted a 1" radius I would use a 3" diameter hole saw.

I would make the cutout on one end and then turn the workpiece around to do the other end while keeping the same face against the template so everthing lines up when you go to glue the pieces together.

good luck!


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

nice illustration Greg,

The orange line in your illustration, is that the template? If i'm looking to use a top bearing flush router bit, would i be needing the orange line you have in the drawing? I make the template to the exact size of the cut out holes, right?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I think Greg has got the way to get the job done, But I would like to add a small note,, with the ski jig you don't need to use any templates or guides so to speak, the ski jigs support guides will keep the bit running true and router can side from side to side once you lock the ski jig in place, see below.. Greg also showed how to lock the stock in place, the quick made hold down board will do the same job with just some cam blocks and some screws to lock it in place ,, see below.

Then once you have the center cut out then make a quick template to put in the round inside corners to get the look of the block...

This is just one more way to get it done 

==============



gregW said:


> Hi Mike,
> 
> those are pretty cool...It sure looks like solid wood to me too!
> 
> ...


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Mike,

Correct..the orange line is the template. 

If you do have a long enough pattern bit you would need to make the cutout in your template to the exact size that you want it to be in the finished block. If you do end up doing it that way I would make both of the cutouts in the template so you don't have to rotate the part. 

That way you should be able to eliminate any indexing errors you may have from turning the part, just in case your pieces are not perfectly square and sized exactly the same.






PhillyGuy said:


> nice illustration Greg,
> 
> The orange line in your illustration, is that the template? If i'm looking to use a top bearing flush router bit, would i be needing the orange line you have in the drawing? I make the template to the exact size of the cut out holes, right?


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

Thanks. I'm gonna give it a try this weekend. prep the boards for cutting, and mess with the template until i figure it out. Thanks for all your help guys. Depending on if this works out the way i want it to, I'll post some picks. If I blow it...I'll slowly vanish into "no post" world. ha.

thanks again.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

PhillyGuy said:


> Thanks. I'm gonna give it a try this weekend. prep the boards for cutting, and mess with the template until i figure it out. Thanks for all your help guys. Depending on if this works out the way i want it to, I'll post some picks. If I blow it...I'll slowly vanish into "no post" world. ha.
> 
> thanks again.


No Way! There is no such thing as blowing it. We call that "collective experience." All of us have made contributions to "Collective Experience" over time. Good, bad or indifferent, we expect pictures. It is possible that what you view as dismal failure we would view as "a good first step." You have to remember, we've all been there. There isn't one craftsperson here that hasn't had a really bad screwup sometime. In my experience, some of those screwups led to real works of art, as opposed to "copies of someone's else's imagination."

Enjoy the weekend. Work safely. We look forward to seeing your progress next week.

Allthunbs


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

alright, so quick update - without pics.
I tried the first template, and thought it was pretty good, but once i looked closer at it, and made my first cut on some scrap wood, wasn't satisfied. i know what i have to do to make it solid and super sharp and crisp. Luckily, i'm a perfectionist and never just jump into projects like this, so i didn't ruin any of the good wood. Attempt #2 is this weekend. i think i know what i'm doing. Now. ha. we'll see though. When its all done, which i'm hoping is soon, i'll attach pics. Kinda hard to do it during the week though. Stupid work.

_mm


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

PhillyGuy said:


> alright, so quick update - without pics.
> I tried the first template, and thought it was pretty good, but once i looked closer at it, and made my first cut on some scrap wood, wasn't satisfied. i know what i have to do to make it solid and super sharp and crisp. Luckily, i'm a perfectionist and never just jump into projects like this, so i didn't ruin any of the good wood. Attempt #2 is this weekend. i think i know what i'm doing. Now. ha. we'll see though. When its all done, which i'm hoping is soon, i'll attach pics. Kinda hard to do it during the week though. Stupid work.
> 
> _mm


Hi Mike: Take a look at 

Router Forums - View Single Post - Routing with Template Tom

We're trying to get Template Tom to divulge the secrets of template preparation. It's painfulll but there is hope for progress. You may have to stay tuned, we've hadn only marginal success to date.

Allthunbs


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Greg., at last you have shown what I consider the obvious method. I was just about getting palpitations waiting for someone to come up with it, the only difference that I would do is to rout around half the depth then flip the wood AND the template over and finish routing from the other side.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Harry..I'm glad to hear that you didn't actually reach the point of getting palpitations  

it seems like I have a hard enough time getting things to line up with little or no mismatch even if I don't flip the wood or the template, I think if I tried flipping both I would be asking for trouble..

but I think I understand what you're saying..by flipping both you should cancel out any errors caused by the template being off center.








harrysin said:


> Greg., at last you have shown what I consider the obvious method. I was just about getting palpitations waiting for someone to come up with it, the only difference that I would do is to rout around half the depth then flip the wood AND the template over and finish routing from the other side.


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

so here is a quick little photo update of what i did last weekend, and what i kinda messed up. From the photos, i guess it doesn't look too messed up, but up close, i'm not too happy with it. Not "perfect" enough.

so i took what you guys said and listened. Well, tried to. ha. Talked to my dad who is crafty with this too, and we tried to come up with simplest way to make a template for this. What i did was pretty much make a box for each individual 20x10 piece of ~2" thick wood. Picture 1 is the pieces of wood stacked and planed, ready to have the inner "cinder block" holes cut out. didn't glue them yet. Just stacked them to get an idea of how big each piece will look.

Template1.jpg is a pic of the box i made to fit snug around each final piece of wood. I measured out the template and drew it on there. Making sure the height of this box is hight enough to give enough clearance for the router blade to not hit the work bench. I ultimately attached 3 pieces of wood under the final poplar wood - to be cut - inside the box, so that each piece is elevated and butted up right against the template. No movement at all, because the template box is measured to be snug around each piece.

Then i secured the template box to the table. No picture of this either.

The Template2.jpg pic is the photo of the cut out template. Looks pretty good, but i ended up cutting too close to the line and sanding too much so it ended up being not even enough. i know i need a steadier hand when giving it the final sanding next time. and next time is this weekend.

I know this isn't as sophisticated a template as you guys have made, and shown me, but i'm also working with what my dad and I have in his garage. A bit ghetto, i know, but if i get the template cut out exactly, i think it should work just like i planned, no? ha. I hope.

Flipping anything over to do the other side just seemed too complicated for me and giving me too much room to mess up and get some imperfections. Resulting in a ton of sanding. which means sanding off too much wood.

so i'm hoping this works.

Like a said, its a bit of a jimmy-rigged jig, but think it could work.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

that should work great Mike..just like you said the main thing you need to do is make sure that there is no movement between the jig and the workpiece, so if there is any slop at all you could even just wedge shims in to take up the gap.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Mike:

Ok, one comment: rather than slide in the board and hold it with wedges, I would suggest you put battens on one end and one side. A batten is a wooden stick properly dimensioned. It doesn't matter the dimension as long as it correctly positions your workpiece under the template. Put it on the workpiece and screw it in place. It need only be two screws, enough to hold the template securely. Mark which sides were up against the battens. Rout your pattern and remove the template. Repeat for the number of pieces you need to do. Once complete and you're doing the glue up, keep all of the screwed faces on the inside.

Hope this helps.

Allthunbs


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

a fast update (if anyone is interested still):

remade the template, and it came out much better this time.

Cut the first 5 pieces of wood and MAN, routing through 1.75" thick poplar is not easy. I outlined the holes first, then with a jig saw cut on the inside leaving about .25" of wood to the template. Then routered it. 

Here are a few pics.

I think for the second block, i might do it differently. Cuz when pretty much only half of the router plate is touching the wood the whole time, which can make for tiny little errors and some kind of movement. Which results in some slight variations in each piece of wood. Nothing major. I'll sand it out, but i'd rather not. 

So i think i'm going to buy a 2" router bit with top and bottom bearing on it. create two templates and have the wood sit between them. This should eliminate any kind of sway i might have. 

Or...

I could just route even slower than i already did and hope i keep it 100% level 

these aren't glued yet. just stacked.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Mike,
you can keep your router from tipping by making a larger sub base that will span the opening in the template.

take the black sub base off of your router and transfer the attachment screw hole pattern to a 12" x 12" piece of 1/4" thick mdf or hardboard and use your holesaw to drill the center clearance hole for the bit. Make the clearance hole large enough to give you good visability of the bit and the workpiece while you're routing.


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

Greg, thats a GENIUS idea! thanks.
I'm totally going to try that. That will save me 50 bones on buying the top and bottom bearing router bit too.


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

*"Almost" finished pics of wooden cinderblocks*

so just wanted to update the guys that have helped me out alot with this project.

with the super simple, but brilliant idea from gregW, i made the bigger base on the router and cut everything. 

they turned out awesome! the first brick had a bit more sanding and labor after i glued it together, but came out just as nice. Here are some pics of the second brick. (looks just like the first). Because of the added bigger router plate that helped stabilize the router from tipping, these pieces almost lined up perfectly from the inside cut holes. Some sanding and dunzo.

just gotta stain and finish them.

thanks for all of your suggestions and ideas. appreciate it.

_mm


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Pretty neat results Philly!


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Kool Mike.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Mike,
This has to be one of the best introduction threads I’ve seen. You did a great job on the blocks and an excellent job of letting everyone know who you are...a guy who makes up his mind to do something and then gets the job done!

I really appreciate you taking the time to post the updates and photos and I hope you post some more pictures of the blocks after you stain and finish them.

Very nice work!


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## PhillyGuy (Mar 18, 2009)

thanks greg, 
and everyone else that helped out, commented, etc.
this was really fun. pretty tough to do. the sanding was nuts, but i'm pretty pumped how they turned out. Good thing i do NOT have to do more. ha.

once i build the platform bed to go with these, i'll stain and finish them all together and update these somewhere down the road.

thanks again guys.

_mm


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Great job, Mike. Glad the effort worked out well for you.


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