# Use of skis to thickness wood?



## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

I've read and understand all the concepts of using skis to flatten a board, including many magazine articles on the same subject.
But, nowhere that I've found does anyone say anything about just flipping the board over and using the skis again to make the opposite side flat and parallel to the first side. The general concensus seems to be to run it through your thickness planer after flattening the first side.
My question is just that, why not just flip it over (assuming you are on a flat surface) and, using the skis, flatten, thickness and make parallel the other side?
Is there a reason for not doing this that I'm overlooking?
I do understand that there would most likely be a lot of sanding needed but, this can be done can't it?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

rcp612 said:


> I've read and understand all the concepts of using skis to flatten a board, including many magazine articles on the same subject.
> But, nowhere that I've found does anyone say anything about just flipping the board over and using the skis again to make the opposite side flat and parallel to the first side. The general concensus seems to be to run it through your thickness planer after flattening the first side.
> My question is just that, why not just flip it over (assuming you are on a flat surface) and, using the skis, flatten, thickness and make parallel the other side?
> Is there a reason for not doing this that I'm overlooking?
> I do understand that there would most likely be a lot of sanding needed but, this can be done can't it?


Roger, it depends on the shape and size of the wood, also what the wood is going to be made into. If it's a board that fits into the thickness planer, then, once one surface is flat, it's MUCH faster to then pop it into the thickness planer for the second side than to use the skis. For a board however, the jointer would probably be a better choice.
If we now consider a large slab, which requires both sides to be flat and parallel, then there is no reason whatsoever why the skis couldn't/shouldn't be used on both sides.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

This might help, I also suggest, read the comments below the video. It only adds support to Harry's reply.

How to Mill Lumber | The Wood Whisperer


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I did some small pieces with a ski on my router table with a special insert in it. The suction from the DC held the wood in place. I later added some sand paper to the insert to help.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

That's pretty cool, Mike.
What are the rough dimensions, hole size and what did you make to spread the suction from the bottom?
Really neat idea!
Gene


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

Thank you Harry, Ken, and Mike. Now I have more to think about and plan for the future.
I'm thinking about selling my Ridgid R4330 to make more space in my shed, and now that I'm sure that I can live without it, that just might be the next move.
I'll let you guys know if that comes about, I'm sure someone has more use for it than I do at this time.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Pick up the Woodsmith Vol. 32 / No. 189 magazine. What you're wanting to do is described in detail.


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## rcp612 (Oct 22, 2008)

Hamlin said:


> Pick up the Woodsmith Vol. 32 / No. 189 magazine. What you're wanting to do is described in detail.


That was the last article I read before posting my question. They also recommend running the opposite side through the thickness planer which was the reason for my post.
I am not trying to break any speeds to finish a project, just trying to enjoy my woodworking time so, I think I'll try my hand at using skis and time for my next milling endeavor.
Thank you for the reference though Ken.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Once you have one side "truly flat", you could run it through a planer. The only reason they're suggesting it is, it's a little faster than using ski's. However, if you have a warped, cupped board. You must deal with this issue first.


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