# Jewelry box help



## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

I’m about to start on two jewelry boxes for my two granddaughters. This will be my first attempt at making a jewelry box and I’ll probably make a prototype out of pine first. The boxes for the kids will be made of Purple Heart (their choice) and Curly Maple (my choice). The box will be rectangular with a lift out, segmented tray on top and a non-segmented bottom compartment. I’ll line the box with self-adhesive velvet. I’m thinking around 9” to 10” in width. I hope that’s enough info so that Forum members can help with a few questions that I have.

Are there any general dimensions, or ratios that I can use to size the box for visual appeal, sort of like the golden ratio? I'll start with the width mentioned above and go from there.

Should the sides be ½” or ¾” thick? How about the top? 

I’ll miter the joints but will put in splines. Any suggestions on spline spacing based on your recommended height?

Although I think I can design this myself, does anyone know where I can get plans online to help me with a cutting diagram?

Any other advice that you can offer so that when I give the boxes to the kids they’ll say “what a wonderful keepsake” rather than “what were you thinking”?


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## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

Hi Barry, I make boxes including jewelry boxes. I have 4-ready to be delivered. Two are walnut and tiger maple and two are cherry and tiger maple. As far as sizes - mine are generally around 3 to 4" high by 8" from front to back and around 12" long. Sometimes the size is determined by the size of the material I have for the top. I may find a really beautiful piece of wood for the top and that will determine the box size. I like to have the wood around .44 inch thick including the top. Much thinner doesn't look right and once you hit 1/2" it doesn't look good either. I make them with a lift out tray of which I use a cove bit to cut a slot on the inside of each end to allow for lifting the tray out. I cut this prior to assembly. I hope this helps. Malcolm / Kentucky USA


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

As to dimensions, the Golden Mean is a good start. 8"wide X 13" long X 5" high.
I prefer 3/8 material for a box of that size. 

Spline spacing is a matter of what's pleasing to your eye. I would use 4 contrasting splines, evenly spaced, with one landing on the lid.


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

Malcolm, Gene, thanks for your responses. They are a big help to me in determining proportions. I am a bit surprised by the wall thicknesses you both use. I thought it would be thicker. Glad I asked. Some of my Purple Heart is 15/16". I can resaw that to 3/8 or .44ish and have plenty left over. 

Malcolm - I was thinking of rabbiting out ledges for the top tray. I see you only do that on the ends. Do you ever have a problem with the tray slipping down into the box if it's not put in straight? I was thinking of rabbiting out the front and the sides but leaving the back thicker for the hinges. Does this make any sense?

Speaking of hinges. I've looked at HD, Rocker and Amazon and there are a lot to choose from. I'm planning on using a simple rectangular polished brass hinge. From the reviews I've read, no one really has major issues with the hinge itself, other than some are pretty cheap, but there are a lot of comments about the brass screws stripping out. What size hinges do you use on your boxes and what type and size of screws do you use? Where do you usually buy them? These boxes are for kids and I'm concerned about them opening the top a little too enthusiastically and ripping the screws out of the wood. 

Once again, thanks for your help. If you have any pictures of the boxes you've made I'd really like to see them. It would give me something to aspire to.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Barry, it would be best to find steel screws of the some size as the brass hinge screws and run them in to give the brass screws an easier time. Easier on you, too as those brass screws can easily snap off in hardwoods. Consider waxing those screws, as well.

Here are a few pictures of a gun box recently made for my DIL's Glock.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I've seen splines put in with 2 near top and 2 close together near bottom. That combo looks pretty good. You could try 1 in the middle with them. 
Have a look at Lee Valley for hardware and screws. I recommend using Robertson square drive brass screws instead of slot or Phillips. The square drive will usually snap the head off before it turns in the socket. Do like Gene said and pre screw with steel or a gimlet.


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

Small point, but I recommend having all your hardware on hand before you start. This way you know screw depth, hinge size, etc. so that you can ensure your wood is proper thickness.


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## kentuk55 (Sep 12, 2012)

Build it however you like. The miter keys are not a specified amount of measurement. The thickness's are not a specified amount either. Do it how you like it. I'm sure they'll turn out fine. We are our own worst critics. Don't beat yourself up. Have fun. The kids will luv whatever you do.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Howdy Berry... 

Here's a shameless plug for a few boxes I've done. Maybe you'll find a few ideas

http://www.routerforums.com/twoskies57-gallery/35209-latest-batch-boxes.html

http://www.routerforums.com/twoskies57-gallery/35210-3-keepsake-boxes.html

You making the boxes for the grandkids is a wonderful thing!!!  A reminder they could very well have a lifetime and then pass along to the next generation..


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Nice work Bill


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## johannmendelsohn (Mar 17, 2014)

Hi Barry. Have a look at Fine Woodworking
No 240, June 2014. Some beautiful boxes by Laura Mays!


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## Barry747 (Jun 16, 2011)

Gene - nice box. What wood did you use?

I took both Charles' and Dennis' advice and ordered several different hinges and screws (brass and steel) from Lee Valley. I'll wait until they come in to determine which ones i like and size the wall thickness accordingly.

kentuk55 (what's your first name?) i hear what you're saying and you are 101% right. Unfortunately, I'm a perfectionist and do beat myself up but only for stupid mistakes, not honest ones. Honest mistakes are ones you don't have much control over. Stupid mistakes are ones you do, like cutting on the wrong side of the line which I've done more than once - slow learner.

And Bill, what can I say, I've developed a case of "box envy". My favorite one is the Mahogany and Quilted Maple veneer. How did you finish the box, especially the Quilted Maple? I've tried dye with curly maple and wasn't completely happy with the result. Finally, you mentioned in your posting (7/16/11) that you "ran across an article that featured the plans for a small keepsake box". Any chance you can point me to that article. I'd like to find a base plan that I can tweak. 

Thanks again to all of you for your suggestions. You've given me a good head start on the boxes.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Barry747 said:


> And Bill, what can I say, I've developed a case of "box envy". My favorite one is the Mahogany and Quilted Maple veneer. How did you finish the box, especially the Quilted Maple? I've tried dye with curly maple and wasn't completely happy with the result. Finally, you mentioned in your posting (7/16/11) that you "ran across an article that featured the plans for a small keepsake box". Any chance you can point me to that article. I'd like to find a base plan that I can tweak.
> .


Hey Barry... thank you for the kind words  
The finish on the mahogany/Qmaple was nothing more than rattle can lacquer. As I recall, 2 or 3 light coats to start, light sanding, spray, sand spray and finish off with wet sanding.... its a pain in da butt, but the results speak for themselves. I can't tell you its the easiest way to get a high gloss shine, but it works for me. Each time I do it, I get a little quicker at it. You just got to learn when enough is enough..

I've tried dyes as well, not a big fan. I've seen beautiful results using dyes, but I kinda like sticking with a natural look of the wood. 

The article I referred to (I"m pretty sure) was in an issue of Wood magazine a few years back..


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## kentuk55 (Sep 12, 2012)

Barry747 said:


> Gene - nice box. What wood did you use?
> 
> I took both Charles' and Dennis' advice and ordered several different hinges and screws (brass and steel) from Lee Valley. I'll wait until they come in to determine which ones i like and size the wall thickness accordingly.
> 
> ...


Hi Barry. My name is Roger. I need to adjust my profile a bit. As someone said, don't beat yourself up. We are our worst critics, so, don't be so hard on yourself. If anyone ever said they never make a mistake, they're lying like crazy.


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