# finish a saw handle



## toto (Jun 13, 2015)

Hi all,can anybody advise me,I have a saw that was in a sorry state and took the handle off cleaned the blade and sanded the handle which is beech what would the best finish for the handle be.Thanks Paul.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Polyurethane spar varnish is about as good as it gets for outdoor use Paul.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Mike said:


> Polyurethane spar varnish is about as good as it gets for outdoor use Paul.


Something that I do is mix Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) 50/50 with mineral spirits then keep applying until the handle stops soaking it up. It will do wonders for the dry wood. I then just use Shellac in a spray can to seal the handles.


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## toto (Jun 13, 2015)

Thanks for your replies all the best Paul


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@toto...

have to agree w/ Bill...


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## john60 (Aug 30, 2014)

I would oil it with pure tung oil mixed with mineral spirts if it a saw you plan to use. If it for display the varnish mentioned above would be better


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

toto said:


> Hi all,can anybody advise me,I have a saw that was in a sorry state and took the handle off cleaned the blade and sanded the handle which is beech what would the best finish for the handle be.Thanks Paul.


Hi, Paul.

Can you please, show the method you used to clean the blade? I have a pair of them in the same sorry conditions.

Thank you in advance.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

papasombre said:


> Hi, Paul.
> 
> Can you please, show the method you used to clean the blade? I have a pair of them in the same sorry conditions.
> 
> Thank you in advance.


Alexis,

I have several methods to clean the plates on saws. If I am trying to remove rust from and plate that has an etch on the blade, and I want to preserve the etch, I use WD-40 to soak the rust on the plate. I then use a single edge razor blade holder and scrape the loosened rust off with a razor. I sometimes utilize a maroon Scotchbrite pad and WD. I repeat as often as necessary to remove the rust. If the plate is not pitted, too badly, it can usually be saved.

I have, also, used an electrolysis method to remove the rust. You can Google this method and it is easy to do. I, also, use this for refurbishing rusted plane bodies.

If the rust is not too heavy I use a Boeshield product called Rust Free. It is a weak Phosphoric acid product that does an excellent job of removing rust from any metal. I use this product on everything from cast iron table saws, to hand tools. There are probably other products using Phosphoric acid that may be more readily available to you locally.

Getting the heavy rust off is just the start. If a plate is pitted then you have to get into the pits to get the rust in the bottoms. If you don't it will eventually come back. This is where the electrolysis method shines. Chemical treatments don't always get it removed.

Once the rust is gone I sometimes sand the plates, using progressively finer grits until the plate is smooth and usable ( I refurbish my saws and planes to use...I do not collect!). 

Once the plate is usable and the handle cleaned, I reassemble and resharpen and re-set the teeth as needed.

I have salvaged some really nice $1.00 garage sale saws into some fine usable saws. 

Hope this info helps


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## toto (Jun 13, 2015)

Hi Alexis
Bill has give a lot of ideas to use which you would get good results from.I was only trying to get my saw back to some sort of resonable state using 180,240,and 320 wet and dry and was happy with the result all rust was removed and when i finish the handle and refit to saw it is 100% improvement and now have a expensive saw for a few pounds.I have 3 more saw's to do and if they come out the same way i will be pleased.
all the best Paul


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

for the rust removal...

Borax and Lemon juice

1. Mix together equal parts Borax and lemon juice.
2. Apply the resulting solution to the rust by spraying or dabbing it on (if the object is large), or by submerging the object in a bath of the solution (if the object is small).
3. Allow the solution to soak in for 30 minutes. Then, rinse the object off; and dry thoroughly.
4. Repeat the process, if rust remains.
5. Use a green scrubby to loosen the rust after you have applied the solution.

wax your saw after you get it cleaned...
oiled handles are kinder to your hands and more comfortable to use over poly and varnishes...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

toto said:


> Hi Alexis
> Bill has give a lot of ideas to use which you would get good results from.I was only trying to get my saw back to some sort of resonable state using 180,240,and 320 wet and dry and was happy with the result all rust was removed and when i finish the handle and refit to saw it is 100% improvement and now have a expensive saw for a few pounds.I have 3 more saw's to do and if they come out the same way i will be pleased.
> all the best Paul


Paul,

As I pointed out in my post, if there is pitting you have to get the rust out of the bottom or it will just keep rusting. Sanding doesn't always get it out. You need to passivate the metal and stop the oxidation process.

You may be fine, just a friendly warning that the sanding may not be enough. I usually use Johnson's Paste Wax when I am done to protect the plate. I just re-wax after a couple of uses or for long term non-use. This helps retard the oxidation process and does not affect the use.

Added: Stick beat me on this post. His homemade formulation is, also, an excellent method. In addition, it is great for polishing brass and other non-ferrous metals.


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## toto (Jun 13, 2015)

Cheers Bill i will get some of that paste thanks for your advice and i bow to your experience.
All the best Paul


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

toto said:


> Cheers Bill i will get some of that paste thanks for your advice and i bow to your experience.
> All the best Paul


Paul,

I don't know if you have Johnson's Paste Wax in the UK. It is just a floor wax. You can use anything that is similar, just make sure it does not contain any silicons. Silicon contamination and finish are like oil and water.

This is a viable substitute:

Liberon BBPWCL500 500ml Bison Paste Wax - Clear


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## toto (Jun 13, 2015)

Thanks Bill yes amazon do Johnson but is a bit pricey liberon is half the price and you get more so Liberon it is thanks again Paul.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

so what's wrong w/ minwax or briwax furniture paste wax...
just make sure it hasn't got any silicone in it....
there has got to be at least a dozen brands/labels out there...
if it's for car or boat you can bet it has silicone in it...
the deal is if you use wax w/ silicone in it on your tools it will contaminate your wood and come finishing time it will create nightmares...

from a refinishing forum....

*Silicone *is very slick synthetic oil that produces the appearance of high gloss and depth on most wood finishes and remains on the surface for a very long time. Most of the silicone polishes produced today are usually inert and will not causes permanent damage to the finish or the wood. *However it can cause major refinishing problems that requires extra effort (and cost to the consumer) to remove.* As a result, most refinishers and restorers discourage the use of silicone based polishes. You can identify when a silicone polishes has been used by the telltale marking they leave when you drag your finger over the finished surface. Choose a silicone polish if you want a glossy shine with some scratch resistance along with a dusting aid. Good for disposable furniture. Not recommended for heirlooms or antiques.

*Paste Wax* is solid at room temperature and does not evaporate from the furniture's surface, so there is no reason to apply it often other than on high ware surfaces. Sometimes waxes is added to liquid polishes (cream or liquid wax), which make it easier to apply. *Paste wax is the most permanent furniture care protection product*. Its also the most difficult to apply because of the extra effort required to remove the excess. On deteriorated finished surfaces, *wax has the advantage of not highlighting cracking and crazing as do liquid polishes or contaminating the wood like oil and silicone products do.*.....


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> so what's wrong w/ minwax or briwax furniture paste wax...
> just make sure it hasn't got any silicone in it....
> there has got to be at least a dozen brands/labels out there...
> if it's for car or boat you can bet it has silicone in it...
> ...


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