# What would be a good begginer set of router bits?



## haglered (Jan 15, 2011)

I just got my router. I have never had one before. It did not come with any bits.

I will be making a dog stand. I want to use it to cut out the place for the bowls and perhaps fancy up the edges and make them not so sharp.

I later plan to build some kitchen cabinets. I do not plan on making any bowls etc. I am in the midst of remodeling my kitchen and may need/want to use it to do some trim type work.

What should I look for in a starter set of bits. What bits should I make sure I get, wich ones should I be less inclined to get? What does a good starter set of bits consist of?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I will suggest the set below...only 2.66 ea.at your door step in 5 days or less.
MLCS 15 Piece Router Bit Sets

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haglered said:


> I just got my router. I have never had one before. It did not come with any bits.
> 
> I will be making a dog stand. I want to use it to cut out the place for the bowls and perhaps fancy up the edges and make them not so sharp.
> 
> ...


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## mattgdraw (Jan 8, 2011)

What about Elite Industrial bits on ebay? Some compare them to MLCS.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Matt

They are about the same,the Elite is a bit slow to ship and high shipping rates from CD,the ebay items are great for price but the shipping can kill a good deal, the MLCS has free shipping and quick to ship..

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mattgdraw said:


> What about Elite Industrial bits on ebay? Some compare them to MLCS.


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## haglered (Jan 15, 2011)

That looks like a good set of bits for not much money. I will have to get them when I can.


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## haglered (Jan 15, 2011)

*My wife got me a setof bits*

My wife got me a set of bits as an early birthday gift. 

It Includes 1" classic, 1-1/4" Chamfer, 1-1/16" roundover, 7/8" roundover, 3/4" cove, 1/2" Double Flute straight, 5/8" Hinge Mortising, 1/2" V groove, 1/2"flush trim, 1/2" dovetail, 1/4" shear double flute straight, 1/2" radius.

I can understand most of them but I have some question about a few of them.

What would you use the 1/2 " radius bit for?

How is the "mortising" bit used?

How are the straight flute bits used? Can they be used to cut out a circle? (like for a circular hole)


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## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

Just got my elite 66 piece bit set the other day and they took 10 days total from Canada to San Jose Ca.
Only tried the 3/4" straight bit so far and I don't see any difference from it and my bosch bit of the same size so far, even when I took a big bite of oak with it it went quick and clean. But then that was the first cut with it.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

haglered said:


> My wife got me a set of bits as an early birthday gift.
> 
> It Includes 1" classic, 1-1/4" Chamfer, 1-1/16" roundover, 7/8" roundover, 3/4" cove, 1/2" Double Flute straight, 5/8" Hinge Mortising, 1/2" V groove, 1/2"flush trim, 1/2" dovetail, 1/4" shear double flute straight, 1/2" radius.
> 
> ...


1/2" radius what profile? The mortising bit is used to inset hinges among other uses. The straight bits can be used to cut circles, grooves for shelves, rabbets, and other things.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

haglered said:


> My wife got me a set of bits as an early birthday gift.
> 
> It Includes 1" classic, 1-1/4" Chamfer, 1-1/16" roundover, 7/8" roundover, 3/4" cove, 1/2" Double Flute straight, 5/8" Hinge Mortising, 1/2" V groove, 1/2"flush trim, 1/2" dovetail, 1/4" shear double flute straight, 1/2" radius.
> 
> ...


congratulations on the new bits. 
Mortising bit is usually a plunge cutting bit with a fairly short cutting length and may be, but not necessarily, guided by a top bearing. It's used to make the reliefs for the hinges and door latches in doors and frames. Also about anything else you need a shallow relief for.
Straight flute bits can be used for rabbets, dados, trimming or even cutting. These are generally not good for plunge cutting without using some special techniques. 
Half inch radius generally refers to a roundover bit but I see you are already referencing some roundover bits. Those have me a bit confused. 1- 1/16" and 7/8" roundover bits would be huge, well over 2" in diameter and cost more than about $50 each. Can you post a couple of pics of the set, I think you only need a couple of more posts to do it.


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## haglered (Jan 15, 2011)

Here is a link to the set

http:// www. fingerhut.com/ProductGroup.aspx?offergroupxid=106177&cmQID=CIt3xjj5dXBHsEcg8ChAhG2VkwLod68GGVsausIoVL0Q8srkDxR8cs+ign8st5NqBHWM

I had a chance to use them to work on the dog food (& water) table. ( I will post a pic of this when I can.)

I tried to freehand the circular holes for the dishes. Needless to say they are not very circular but they will work-when the dishes are in their holes yo will not see my error. I also used the roundover bit on the circles and on the edges of the table. 

A piece of the board must of been a knot and it kicked out a small chunk of wood making an indentation. I rounded it off with the roundover bit. It gives the table some "character."

I did try out the router with the cheap bits I got first.

I enjoyed using it and am planning already to make another dog dish stand for our other dog to replace the one I made earlier before I got the router.


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## haglered (Jan 15, 2011)

Let' see if I can post a picture...










These are the bits my wife purchased for me.










This is the stand as it is now, unfinished and waiting for the wood filler to dry for the second sanding. 




























Here is the dog stand before assembly. Quite a simple design.

And

Here is the previous one I made before I purchsed the router.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

haglered said:


> My wife got me a set of bits as an early birthday gift.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## haglered (Jan 15, 2011)

I did use one of the straight bits to cut out the hole for dishes. I did this freehand. That is why the holes are not round.

Thanks for the info on the radius bit. I doubt if I will use it much. The roundover may get a workout along with the straight bits.


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## tweeker87 (Feb 5, 2011)

Hello, I have also just got my first router and I am new to routers. My issue is that I am doing work to my home and want to keep the moulding the same through the house with the existing moulding. Does anyone have suggestions on how i can duplicate the moulding with my hand held router? i have no bits and am looking to start collecting my wood working tools...


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

tweeker87 said:


> Hello, I have also just got my first router and I am new to routers. My issue is that I am doing work to my home and want to keep the moulding the same through the house with the existing moulding. Does anyone have suggestions on how i can duplicate the moulding with my hand held router? i have no bits and am looking to start collecting my wood working tools...


Hi Tweek, welcome to the forum

Depending on what era the molding is from it may be kind of a trick to duplicate it. Should be able to get close though. You may wind up having to combine profiles from two or three different bits. I will say that in my opinion molding is easier and safer handled on a table with plenty of support. Doing it hand held you need a way to clamp it securely, routers do like to throw things around.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

tweeker87 said:


> Hello, I have also just got my first router and I am new to routers. My issue is that I am doing work to my home and want to keep the moulding the same through the house with the existing moulding. Does anyone have suggestions on how i can duplicate the moulding with my hand held router? i have no bits and am looking to start collecting my wood working tools...


I agree with John - trying to do baseboard moulding hand-held would be difficult, if not down right dangerous, since much of the cutting is done on the face of a thin board. 

Mouldings are generally made on moulding machines, which function in a manner similar to thickness planers, but with profile cutters. While you could have cutters made to match your existing moulding for a moulding machine, doing so would probably be cost prohibitive.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

No big deal just make a Simple Horiz.router table that you can bolt your hand router in, pickup one or two of the Many,Many molding bits..and go for it..

You can see the plans for a simple horiz.table in the Router Magic book.

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tweeker87 said:


> Hello, I have also just got my first router and I am new to routers. My issue is that I am doing work to my home and want to keep the moulding the same through the house with the existing moulding. Does anyone have suggestions on how i can duplicate the moulding with my hand held router? i have no bits and am looking to start collecting my wood working tools...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

tweeker87 said:


> Hello, I have also just got my first router and I am new to routers. My issue is that I am doing work to my home and want to keep the moulding the same through the house with the existing moulding. Does anyone have suggestions on how i can duplicate the moulding with my hand held router? i have no bits and am looking to start collecting my wood working tools...


Many mouldings can be recreated with very simple router bits provided that the shapes are all simple curves, either convex or concave. If you disect a moulding apart, curve by curve, many are a combination of cuts made by round nose or cove bits and roundover bits. You will need a router table to recreate them and have to make several passes with different bits. If the mouldings have parabolic curves you are stuck with finding an exact match which can be very difficult. Some of the mouldings that were made with a Stanley #55 moulding plane can now be reproduced with bits that Lee Valley Tools sells.


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## Brent Rolfe (Feb 12, 2010)

*Wow! That's cheap!*



mattgdraw said:


> What about Elite Industrial bits on ebay? Some compare them to MLCS.


Hi,
I am very new here...first post new in fact. I am in exactly the same situation as haglered was when he started this thread; new router...no bits yet.

Thanks for the recommendations on the Elite bit set (and the MLCS set, which I also looked at on their site.

I have a couple of questions:

1) Are the Elite really as good as the MLCS? The 66 piece set at MLCS is $190...Elite's 66 picer is $149 from Elite (and $109 from ebay?!).
2) Both Elite and MLCS do a 35 and a 66 piece set. For a newbie am I going over the top to buy a 66 piece set? Are half of these bits likely never going to be used?
3) My router has both 1/4 and 1/2" shanks...should I go for the 1/2" set?

Most of my work will be household trim. I plan to re-trim the whole house and make the trim myself. Though I would like to get into making decorative boxes at some point.

Brent


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## Brent Rolfe (Feb 12, 2010)

Sorry...that should be "...Elite's 66 piece set is $149"


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Brent Rolfe said:


> Hi,
> I am very new here...first post new in fact. I am in exactly the same situation as haglered was when he started this thread; new router...no bits yet.
> 
> Thanks for the recommendations on the Elite bit set (and the MLCS set, which I also looked at on their site.
> ...


I don't have any of either type of bit but I have heard that both are good value for the price. I am looking at a few that Elite sells because of the shipping to Canada. I have on rare occasion broken the shank on a 1/4", usually when the bit got dull, hot, and/or I was pushing too hard. I've never broken a 1/2". You may not use all of the bits, but there are some bits in those sets that you may find a use for if you have them. 66 bits for $109 = about $1.65/bit. It's pretty hard to go wrong at that price. Either set will have bits to do most of the common jobs you want them for. They won't have bits for things like baseboards, drawer pulls, and probably rail and stile bits for making cabinet doors.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Here's a good one to start out with 
and free shipping


MLCS 15 Piece Router Bit Sets

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## Brent Rolfe (Feb 12, 2010)

Thanks Charles. I think I might give the Elite 66-er a try. As you say, you can't really go wrong at that price.


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## Brent Rolfe (Feb 12, 2010)

Hi Bob, yes I saw this link in your earlier post on the thread. It looks like a nice set...but I think I'm going to give the Elite 66 piece 1/2 " shank a try. I am in Canada, so shipping shouldn't be a problem and the price can't be beat.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Brent

Yes that's hard to beat  a member got one of the sets and he was going to give a review of them but he has not been back on..maybe with some luck he will see this post..

the one below is over but they sale them all the time..  don't forget to get the extra 2% off from eBay..at pay time..

66 PC ELITE INDUSTRIAL CARBIDE ROUTER BIT SET 1/2 SHANK - eBay (item 380315935767 end time Feb-15-11 16:40:19 PST)

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Brent Rolfe said:


> Hi Bob, yes I saw this link in your earlier post on the thread. It looks like a nice set...but I think I'm going to give the Elite 66 piece 1/2 " shank a try. I am in Canada, so shipping shouldn't be a problem and the price can't be beat.


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## cmsmith55 (Feb 15, 2011)

Sometimes you can get router bit sets from Harbor Freight Tools. They are cheap but you get what you pay for. I think for someone starting out it might be Ok but for the long run I think the whiteside has the best router for the money. This is only my own opinion but I have a few of these bits and they work great.


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

my self i wouldn't buy a set like that. Most will never be used. Why not just buy a bit when the job come's up for the need of that bit. That would be more cost saving ???


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

del schisler said:


> my self i wouldn't buy a set like that. Most will never be used. Why not just buy a bit when the job come's up for the need of that bit. That would be more cost saving ???


Couple of schools of thought here. I'm a believer that just starting out a set makes sense as it provides a variety of profiles to experiment with in addition to needed bits; straight, roundover, etc. I know when I just started I had no idea which bit did what so buying a bit for a specific job was kind of a crap shoot. If you haven't got it, you can't try it kind of thing.
Looking at it from an economic standpoint, bits by the set running $1.65 per this example and individual bit costing an average of $10 (assuming) the breakeven on this kit would be using 11 of the 66 bits. 
Just another opinion, no shortage of those:dirol:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just my 2 cents.. 
You can have to many router bits..
You can't use what you don't have on hand, many router bits can be used for many jobs not just one,,with the 66 pcs. set it would take you 66 days to use them all.

I also suggest you get the 1/4" shank size for your 1st. set, in time you will want to get more of the bigger bits and that's the time to get the 1/2" shank size..
Most of the bigger bits will set you back a ton of money like the solid carb.bits that will not come in most sets or the cabinet doors bits, that's the time to take a hard look at the price and buy the best you can find...to a point..you don't want to go over the deep end if you are going to use them now and than or a one time job..

Most of the lower price bits will do a great job but on the other hand if you are going to use them day in and day out buy the high ends ones for sure.. 

===========


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## Brent Rolfe (Feb 12, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Just my 2 cents..
> You can have to many router bits..
> ...


I'm just wondering...why do you recommend the 1/4" shank as a first set?
When I've browsed the forums I've got the impression that 1/2" shank bits are more stable.
Are they more difficult to handle?
From Elite the 1/4 and 1/2" sets are the same price.
BTW...they are $119 on eBay if you "Buy Now", rather than bid. Bids start at $109.
With shipping and tax (inside Canada at least) it comes to $151.00


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Brent, taking the 1/2"-shank plunge early on may be a good thing. You'll eventually want 1/2" shanks anyway.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Brent


Like most things you must learn to walk b/4 you can run ,,,the 1/4" bits will do just about every job you want to do at 1st.than you will buy more and more bits and that's the time you want to buy the 1/2" ones..the 1/4" ones are just as stable as the 1/2" ones because the ones in the set are small OD so to speak.

Plus you can use the 1/4" ones in the small router unlike the 1/2" ones the norm.the 1st.time you want to do a inlay job,a sign,a trim job,round over,etc.etc. you have the bit on hand..

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Brent Rolfe said:


> I'm just wondering...why do you recommend the 1/4" shank as a first set?
> When I've browsed the forums I've got the impression that 1/2" shank bits are more stable.
> Are they more difficult to handle?
> From Elite the 1/4 and 1/2" sets are the same price.
> ...


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## Brent Rolfe (Feb 12, 2010)

jschaben said:


> Couple of schools of thought here. I'm a believer that just starting out a set makes sense as it provides a variety of profiles to experiment with in addition to needed bits; straight, roundover, etc. I know when I just started I had no idea which bit did what so buying a bit for a specific job was kind of a crap shoot. If you haven't got it, you can't try it kind of thing.
> Looking at it from an economic standpoint, bits by the set running $1.65 per this example and individual bit costing an average of $10 (assuming) the breakeven on this kit would be using 11 of the 66 bits.
> Just another opinion, no shortage of those:dirol:


I think I agree with you here!
I'm looking at the 66 piece set as a great way to experiment, at an affordable price. a) If I break one or two it wont be the end of the world. 
b) It'll give me plenty of profiles to play with.
c) I am spatially challenged, so trying to combine bit profiles to get a certain shape is going to be too much of a stretch for me...at least at first.
d) I will only be an occassional user of bits for at least then next 10 years...so I am trying to quash my natural tendency to buy professional grade tools when I only have the time (and probably talent) to be an amateur!

On the other hand, if I get really keen on, and good at, this...then I'll be buying a delux router and an heirloom bit set, for sure!!


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## Brent Rolfe (Feb 12, 2010)

Bob and Ralph...I can see both of your points and agree with them! 
Do they make a set with 3/8" shanks?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Brent

3/8" shank=Not that I know about they do make some of the router bits in the 3/8" size but not many...


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Brent Rolfe said:


> Bob and Ralph...I can see both of your points and agree with them!
> Do they make a set with 3/8" shanks?


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## Brent Rolfe (Feb 12, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Brent
> 
> 3/8" shank=Not that I know about they do make some of the router bits in the 3/8" size but not many...
> 
> ...


Sorry Bob, that was a joke...you were recommending 1/4" and Ralph recommended 1/2"...in consecutive posts...I thought I'd look for a compromise at 3/8"!


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Brent Rolfe said:


> Sorry Bob, that was a joke...you were recommending 1/4" and Ralph recommended 1/2"...in consecutive posts...I thought I'd look for a compromise at 3/8"!


Hi Brent - I am gonna assume someone, somewhere makes 3/8 shank bits. Why else would there be 3/8 collets and adapters. Not the norm though.

As far as 1/4 vs 1/2" shank, I actually prefer 1/4" shanks for cutting diameters 3/8 and under. Much better visisbility as that 1/2" shank takes up a good bit of real estate in the hole on the bottom of the router. From 3/8 to 3/4" cutting diameters, either will do, depending on material, depth of cut, etc. Over 3/4 I like the 1/2" shank. 
I see posts saying "only use 1/2" shanks" or words to that effect and I must respectfully disagree. In the first place, that significantly limits the versatility of the tool, just try to stuff a 1/2" dovetail, 1/2" shank bit through a 7/16" bushing. The only bits I have broken, at least in recent memory, have been 1/8" stuff in my Rotozip and the reason they broke is that the silly machine wouldn't allow me to adjust to a shallow enough depth of cut so they got hot and broke.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi John



jschaben said:


> Hi Brent - I am gonna assume someone, somewhere makes 3/8 shank bits. Why else would there be 3/8 collets and adapters. Not the norm though.


They used to be a lot more common, but that was way back. I used to work where we had a couple of bench top overhead pin routers which used 3/8in shank cutters, but other than that I've never used them. 

I've got to agree with your comments about 1/4in vs. 1/2in cutters. There are certainly jobs where a 1/4in router makes much more sense that a gallumphing great 1/2in beast - laminate trimming, routing out hinge recesses, freehand signwriting, small profiles (e.g. beads, etc), narrow edge working which is sometimes unavoidable, inlay work, small dovetails, etc. Against that a 1/4in just doesn't have the oomph to do deep mortises, work heavy rebates, rout out housings (if like me you don't use a dado set on the table saw), and the like.


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## Brent Rolfe (Feb 12, 2010)

They're here! Just got my Elite 66 piece set delivered. C$151 including shipping and taxes.
66...that's a lotta bits!
Hopefully I'll be creating some saw dust this weekend...and if I'm lucky there'll be some useful bits of wood left over too!


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## Glen L (Nov 24, 2010)

haglered said:


> I just got my router. I have never had one before. It did not come with any bits.
> 
> I will be making a dog stand. I want to use it to cut out the place for the bowls and perhaps fancy up the edges and make them not so sharp.
> 
> ...


Most of all my work is kitchen cabinets doors and trim millwork.

If you're going to make you're own doors and I know you will.. You will need a cabinet door set, if you're going for the shaker door style then you need the 3/4 rail & stile cutter, if you decide on raised panel doors then you need a 3-1/2" diameter raised panel bit with backcutter, if you decide on raised panel doors then get the 3 pc set. If you're making drawers and doors just get the 5-Pc advanced cabinet door set from Freud, if you want to make very high quality drawer boxes then go with the dovetail bits, I mostly use the 1/2 14 deg bit for all my dovetails joints for drawer making.

If you want to make your own cabinet crown moldings then you need the architectural millwork bits, I like the look of wide 5 1/2 moldings but it requires some tricky setups with featherboards and guides on the router table to make the upper and lower cuts perfect, but once you master it then you will want to do all the rooms in crown. 

Other bits you're going need are straight bits 1/4 3/8 1/2 5/8 3/4, 1" cut flush trim bit with a bearing, I also use a 3/4 Roman Ogee, this is like 5 bits in one by changing the height of the bit it will give you different profiles so it's one of the best bits you will ever buy.

Sorry if this is confusing but once you get into kitchen projects you will get the
hang of it. 

Cheers
Glen


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## hklinda86 (Mar 4, 2011)

Check out the August 1999 issue of Fine Woodworking for their router bit story. Keep in mind 1/4" shank router bits are slowly becoming a thing the past. I prefer 1/2" shanks because they are stronger and vibrate less.


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## don_chr (Feb 20, 2011)

I also have the MLCS router bit set on my wish list. They have several sets depending on how big a set you want to buy.

Don


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## RobinLocksley (Mar 28, 2011)

hklinda86 said:


> Check out the August 1999 issue of Fine Woodworking for their router bit story. Keep in mind 1/4" shank router bits are slowly becoming a thing the past. I prefer 1/2" shanks because they are stronger and vibrate less.



where might i find old issues like the one mentioned above to look stuff up?


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## Saiyoot (May 27, 2011)

I closed my eyes when I click a committed to buy button for a Whiteside 7 bits starter set. It was for $88. I hope this set is good and strong as people have written a great review about it.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Saiyoot, Whiteside is always top rated and I am sure you will be pleased with your purchase. Here are a couple of tips that apply to all brands of bits:

1. Never keep your bits in a box where they can bump each other as this will cause nicks and chips in the carbide. There are many plans for bit storage but a simple solution is to drill or rout holes in a board that will fit in your storage area. See photo.

2. Before using a bit with a bearing on it always make sure the set screws are tight and that the bearing spins freely. New bits are often shipped with the screws loose.

3. Clean off any resin or gum that builds up on your bits as this will cause burning on your wood. A small brass brush or tooth brush with a solvent works great for this, don't use a steel wire brush as it can damage the brazing that holds the carbide to the bit.

4. Keep your bits sharp. You can touch up a cutting edge with a diamond hone but expecially for expensive bits it is worth having them professionally resharpened.


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## stuartwatson (Jun 13, 2011)

*bits*



haglered said:


> I just got my router. I have never had one before. It did not come with any bits.
> 
> I will be making a dog stand. I want to use it to cut out the place for the bowls and perhaps fancy up the edges and make them not so sharp.
> 
> ...


hi great set of 12 availble from de walt direct or via SCREWFIX in england around45 pounds 
good instruction booklet aswell.stuart


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Couldn't find them on the Screwfix site, only rather expensive off brand bits at premium brand prices.

Cheers

Peter


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

hklinda86 said:


> Check out the August 1999 issue of Fine Woodworking for their router bit story. Keep in mind 1/4" shank router bits are slowly becoming a thing the past.


Are they, though? With the ever increasing range of 1/4in trim routers (Colt, tne new DW, etc) I find it difficult to believe that 1/4in routers will disappear altogether.

Regards

Phil


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## stuartwatson (Jun 13, 2011)

ok 
hope they work out 
stuart


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## stuartwatson (Jun 13, 2011)

excellent 

they finished ?

stuart


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## Saiyoot (May 27, 2011)

Mike said:


> Saiyoot, Whiteside is always top rated and I am sure you will be pleased with your purchase. Here are a couple of tips that apply to all brands of bits:
> 
> 1. Never keep your bits in a box where they can bump each other as this will cause nicks and chips in the carbide. There are many plans for bit storage but a simple solution is to drill or rout holes in a board that will fit in your storage area. See photo.
> 
> ...


Thank you Mike for the tips in taking care of the bits. Nice box you got!


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## stuartwatson (Jun 13, 2011)

RABBET BITS? am i right in thinking thet are REBATE BITS in little old uk ? ha ha
stuart


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