# I received my FatMax Chisel set today



## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> Amazon.com: Stanley 16-971 6-Piece FatMax Short Blade Chisel Set


Stick, I just opened up my new chisel package and I am so happy with it that I can’t even tell you. It even came in a case, a plastic one but I’ll make a wooden case for later this year. I think I’ll keep the formed plastic divider for the chisels and fill it with something underneath. I’m not sure yet but maybe spray foam.


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Those look real nice. Can I borrow them to cut some nails off? Here Hee


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Sometimes that Stick fella comes up with some good stuff, and almost makes you think there's a nice guy under that crusty outer layer.

And other times ..........

We luv ya Stick!!!!

HJ

If you let us borrow them we promise to take real good care of them. hehehe


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Shop guy said:


> Those look real nice. Can I borrow them to cut some nails off? Here Hee


For Pete's sake Richard. Didn't your old man teach you anything?

Those chisels aren't for cutting nails...they're for opening rusted paint cans. >


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

cocobolo1 said:


> For Pete's sake Richard. Didn't your old man teach you anything?
> 
> Those chisels aren't for cutting nails...they're for opening rusted paint cans. >


And I thought they were for repointing some brickwork :grin:


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

vchiarelli said:


> And I thought they were for repointing some brickwork :grin:


Well yes, that too. But you need to grind the corners off a bit first to be able to do a really good job on pointing.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

At every turn of the last posts, I felt the hair creep up on my neck. But then, once ruined, you can get em cheap and run them through the WorkSharp and voila, like new.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> At every turn of the last posts, I felt the hair creep up on my neck. But then, once ruined, you can get em cheap and run them through the WorkSharp and voila, like new.


Tom, I've been meaning to ask you.

Other than the somewhat high price...have you found any shortcomings with the WorkSharp system so far?


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

I received my chisel set also. The label on front says made in England. They seem real nice. I sharpened all of them on the Worksharp 3000. 

Thanks Stick. This is a cheap option for some nice chisels.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

I also have the Worksharp 3000 and used it for the first time within the last couple of weeks. I also bought some more sandpaper.










I have not sharpened these new chisels yet, but it took me a long time to sharpen my old chisels because they were chipped and also out of square. I used to use this sharpener below and they were pretty bad.










For a while there I thought maybe Vince and Keith used them but after further checking I realized they’re both from Canada which is a little far from me.>


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DesertRatTom said:


> At every turn of the last posts, I felt the hair creep up on my neck. But then, once ruined, you can get em cheap and run them through the WorkSharp and voila, like new.


I agree Tom, I got out my Worksharp 3000 a couple of days ago and yesterday I sharpened a set just like those only a lot older. I have had them for 3years and they were used then. just been lying in the drawer. never used the worksharp before ,and now I am in love with it. That was the easiest set of chisels I have ever sharpened. Went on today to sharpen all my plan irons,and let me tell you they are super sharp now. 

Great tool.
Herb


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

And once again a little humor crept in.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

vchiarelli said:


> And I thought they were for repointing some brickwork :grin:


right outta the box they're great fingernail cleaners...


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> right outta the box they're great fingernail cleaners...


And if you are careful, nail trimmers as well. Otherwise you might be short a finger tip or two. :surprise:

I have the Workshop 3000 as well and definitely recommenced it. Spent a few long winter evenings resurfacing and sharpening some old chisels from a barn sale and they turned out well.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JFPNCM said:


> And if you are careful, nail trimmers as well. Otherwise you might be short a finger tip or two. :surprise:
> 
> I have the Workshop 3000 as well and definitely recommenced it. Spent a few long winter evenings resurfacing and sharpening some old chisels from a barn sale and they turned out well.


I still recommend the Lee Valley MK II...
and Tormek...


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

Worth bearing in mind that although they are called "through tang" its not all one piece.
I broke my 50mm one after less than a year of not particularly hard use.
Keep meaning to put a different handle on it but not round to it yet.

The handle want kind of waffy and was only held together by the rubber grip part, I removed that and found out the yellow plastic had cracked and that the through tang, wasn't.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

demographic said:


> Worth bearing in mind that although they are called "through tang" its not all one piece.
> I broke my 50mm one after less than a year of not particularly hard use.
> Keep meaning to put a different handle on it but not round to it yet.
> 
> The handle want kind of waffy and was only held together by the rubber grip part, I removed that and found out the yellow plastic had cracked and that the through tang, wasn't.



wast that one made in England or elsewhere??
their CS should rescue you...


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

I'm thinking about sharpening my new chisels today and it occurred to me that I've never sharpened a brand new set before. They already are pretty sharp so I'm sure that I don't have to start from the beginning. 

So what grit do I start with on my Worksharp?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

make sure the backs are flat...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

JohnnyB60 said:


> I'm thinking about sharpening my new chisels today and it occurred to me that I've never sharpened a brand new set before. They already are pretty sharp so I'm sure that I don't have to start from the beginning.
> 
> So what grit do I start with on my Worksharp?


I would start with the 400 on one and see how it does. The new chisels I got awhile back had machine grinder marks and they needed to be removed and given a honed finish. If that doesn't work then drop back to the 120 and remove the machine marks.

just a suggestion.
Herb


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

All my backs were very flat. I think I used 400 grit. Then used 1000 grit for the sharpening. The largest one took a little more work. It was almost 1/32 out of square so I dropped down grit wise on it. If I would have been sharpening by hand I doubt I would have noticed. It is the Worksharp which shows if it is not perfectly square.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> make sure the backs are flat...


Yup, that is a must. 
On the MKII I agree that it is an awesome looking machine, but at more than twice the price ,I think the Worksharp 3000 is a better value.

I like the idea on the Worksharp of pushing in the chisel then retracting, it gives the chisel a chance to loose some heat and not build up. Whereas if the chisel is clamped tight to the disc it is going to get and keep the heat build up. Just my opinion. That was always the objection I had with sharpening tools on grinding wheels, it has only been recently that they have markeded power grinders with a slower speed. Most grinders are set to sharpen bits and tools with the direction of rotation towards the tool and this is all wrong, the best way is to having the wheel turning away from the tool being ground, they are also too high speed and aggressive. 
I saw a craftsman grinder once that was a variable speed ,but they are not common.

On the job the carpenters used the belt sanders to do a quick sharpening and when they got time used stones.

Herb


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> wast that one made in England or elsewhere??
> their CS should rescue you...


Can't remember where it was made and it doesn't say on the chisel.
If I pestered them they would only send me another and I'd rather fix the one I have with either a wooden handle or a metal one threaded on. 

Its got a nicer balance than my 50mm Marples (the cricket bat) as the blade is thinner (less like a cricket bat).

Was fairly miffed when it happened as it was my main hinge setting chisel but I don't use them as much now and rout hinge mortices in more nowadays.


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

You can buy a new set right now for $43 on Amazon.  Probably put your old set on eBay and get half your money back.

I looked at the Tormek since so many people recommend it. It was about $600 and I am not sure you got all the tools. I think I have less than 1/3 that in my Worksharp 3000. My only complaint about the Worksharp is I have a # 7 plane wider than 2 inches which was my grandfathers.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

coxhaus said:


> You can buy a new set right now for $43 on Amazon. Probably put your old set on eBay and get half your money back.
> 
> I looked at the Tormek since so many people recommend it. It was about $600 and I am not sure you got all the tools. I think I have less than 1/3 that in my Worksharp 3000. My only complaint about the Worksharp is I have a # 7 plane wider than 2 inches which was my grandfathers.


I have the same problem,Lee. So I ordered a top side tool rest clamp and setting gauge from Amazon for $15. less than retail. Will justuse it for the wide irons.
The Worksharp does an amazing job for the time spent.
I have one of those sharpeners that you slide back and forth and uses diamond stones. It does a great job, but requires a lot of elbow grease and is slow going on the wide chisels and plane irons. 
Come to think of it I have a whole drawer half full of sharpening gear I have acquired over the years and can't get the knack of using it. My biggest problem with stones is that I can't seem to hold the angle when sharpening, and get a radius instead. Even after years of halfassed sharpening , just couldn't get it right,just so-so.
That is why I am so tickled with the Worksharp, I should have used it 3 years ago when I bought it.

Herb


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Dah.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"*On the job the carpenters used the belt sanders* to do a quick sharpening and when they got time used stones."
-Herb

Yup. We're not talking Queen Anne chair legs here.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

cocobolo1 said:


> Tom, I've been meaning to ask you.
> 
> Other than the somewhat high price...have you found any shortcomings with the WorkSharp system so far?


 @cocobolo
A couple of things, but neither is a big deal.

First, it was not quite properly adjusted so it sharpened square. It is fairly easy to turn a screw and adjust, but you have to keep fiddling with it, sharpen and measuring to get it square. It is fine now and locked down.

Second, can't use it for more than a 2 inch iron, and their solution is not particularly good because thickness and flatness of the disk complicates sharpening wider blades to exact angles. Probably close enough to work fine, but I'm fussy. Will still use it to flatten wide irons, but once that is done, it is done for good. So for sharpening and perfecting wide irons, I'm going to use flat diamond "stones." Just bought a fine for final final sharpening the other day.

What I like about it most is how easy it is just to put the disk on, set the correct angle, and zip zip and your chisel is sharp. No working with a less than razor sharp edge just because it is a pain to sharpen.

Hope that helps.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> I still recommend the Lee Valley MK II...
> and Tormek...


I have the MK II and enjoy using it for touch ups. When I went with the Worksharp I was ignorant of the Tormek but based on cost believe I still would have gone to the Worksharp based on how infrequently I use the chisels.


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

DesertRatTom said:


> @cocobolo
> A couple of things, but neither is a big deal.
> 
> First, it was not quite properly adjusted so it sharpened square. It is fairly easy to turn a screw and adjust, but you have to keep fiddling with it, sharpen and measuring to get it square. It is fine now and locked down.
> ...


Thank you very much Tom.

Even the best tools seem to have some sort of Achilles heel.

I think I'm probably about as fussy as you are. But I don't have many big plane irons. I do have a lot of smaller hand planes though, but it appears that the WorkSharp will handle them.

I have several of the diamond sharpeners, waterstones and so on. Looks like I will be getting the Worksharp soon.

Thanks again.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JFPNCM said:


> I have the MK II and enjoy using it for touch ups. When I went with the Worksharp I was ignorant of the Tormek but based on cost believe I still would have gone to the Worksharp based on how infrequently I use the chisels.


''based on cost''...
hear that a lot about the Mk II to...


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

@Stick486

Cost is a consideration on any tool purchase and I always try to balance it against quality, immediate need and long term use.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@JFPNCM...

when I bought tools as far back as the 60's for the business I considered.....................
many of which I still have and use..

1st and most important I looked to the company...
evaluated their CS and if will they step up to the plate should there be issues...
looked see if they have a planned obsolesce program in force...
what will the chosen company and their product do for me...
and try to figure out if they will respect me in the morning...

no sense in buying something that can't be fixed a few years later or the manufacturer is no help or a hindrance...

next the is product/tool...
quality..
will it have a long productive life...
will it do more than I need it to....
is it a good value...
will it protect my bottom line...
will it go the extra mile...
will it go obsolete or become disposable in short order...
will what I buy support America and the local community which in turn support me......

tools that don't cut the mustard, suffer down time, hurt production and the bottom line need to left on the store shelf...
no sense in buying ''junk'' and send my money off shore in the process either....


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Please excuse my ignorance, but what is “CS”?


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Please excuse my ignorance, but what is “CS”?


Customer Service


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

vchiarelli said:


> Customer Service


Aw thanks Vince. LOL I should have figured that out.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Please excuse my ignorance, but what is “CS”?


CS is Customer Support..
TS in this case is Tech Support...

also Table Saw and Tuff Shid when you are left holing the bag..


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> CS is Customer Support..
> TS in this case is Tech Support...
> 
> also Table Saw and Tuff Shid when you are left holing the bag..


Oh Man this could get confusing after a while LOL
Thanks Stick


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JohnnyB60 said:


> Oh Man this could get confusing after a while LOL
> Thanks Stick


and it gets deeper..

you said your house was freezing...
how cold is it in your house...


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> and it gets deeper..
> 
> you said your house was freezing...
> how cold is it in your house...


Its 67 F right now inside without heat, but my shop is 50F so I'm waiting for it to warm up before I go out there. :grin:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

67....
I keep this place 15-20° cooler than that year around...
that's to lessen or avoid thermal shock when you need to go in and out of doors...


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> 67....
> I keep this place 15-20° cooler than that year around...
> that's to lessen or avoid thermal shock when you need to go in and out of doors...


LOL, Well Stick I kind of did that here but the other way around when i was working.
It would be 105F outside and I had to get in and out of my work truck about every 15 to 30 min so I would drive with the AC off and the windows down so that it would not be such a shock. :grin:


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

@Stick486

Very well stated, your points are well made and ones I have always considered prior to a purchase.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> 67....
> I keep this place 15-20° cooler than that year around...
> that's to lessen or avoid thermal shock when you need to go in and out of doors...


Our thermostat is set at 62 with the occasional bump to 65 for the dinner hour. Not a thermal shock issue but one of comfort.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

@JohnnyB60

Wise choice.


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