# Rank beginner



## Thalia (Jul 20, 2007)

I'm pretty new to woodworking, and just opened up my router for the first time today. I got it for Xmas a couple years ago and lo and behold the owner's manual has gone missing. It's a Craftsman, so apparently I can't get a new one online; Sears wants me to buy a replacement manual. But, though I'm new to woodworking, I do have a clue and after looking around at some woodworking sites I think I've got the gist. I plugged it in and it works and everything, but the blade depth keeps falling, so the cuts keep getting deeper and deeper. As far as I can tell I've adjusted it correctly, and I believe the bit is in tightly enough, but I don't know enough about it to tell if it's something I'm doing wrong or something with the router itself.

It's a Craftsman 917528 from a couple of years ago, just the basic single-speed non-plunge type. It has a "heli-ring adjustment and cam lever lock [to] allow quick and easy depth of cut adjustments", which I take to mean that you open the lever to loosen things, adjust the depth with the grippy ring, then close the lever to tighten things up again. Which I've been doing. (I'd like to send a big sarcastic "thank you" to the people who designed that ring, by the way, as it's rather too large to fit my female hands and it's a real chore.) Do I need to tighten the nut for the lever? Because the fool thing is hard enough to open and close as it is. Also, the ring with the measurements on it (looks like a ruler) just spins freely. Am I missing something?

Thanks for any help you can give.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

*W e l c o m e . . A b o a r d !!​*


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Thalia, welcome to the forums. Lets take care of the easy stuff first. The ring is supposed to slide freely. Lets say you need to make a cut that is 1/4" deep. You install your bit in the router and lower it until it touches the wood. (Power off, unplugged) Now you set the ring to zero at the little reference arrow. Lower the bit until the arrow points at 1/4", lock the cam and you are ready to go.

When you install a bit you put it all the way into the collet till it stops and then pull it back 1/8". Your router may have a shaft lock, if so engage it by sliding the lever. If not place a wrench on the shaft to hold it in position. Tighten the collet nut with the wrench very snug. This means with one hand on the router use the other to tighten with your wrist strength, not leaning your weight on the wrench.

The depth adjustment ring is a real pain. I had one and did not care for it. It will do the job as long as it is adjusted correctly. The first thing you need to know is that there are ball bearings inside the ring. Since making the adjustment can be tricky I would suggest marking your name on the router and then taking it to a Sears store and asking for help adjusting it. From what I have seen there are always retired guys working there who delight in helping a maiden in distress. (Actually they are happy to help anyone) They will see it is a new router and do what they can to assist you. If that should fail, we can go through the steps on adjusting it. It is easier to do than to type.


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## Thalia (Jul 20, 2007)

Mike:


> Thalia, welcome to the forums. Lets take care of the easy stuff first. The ring is supposed to slide freely. Lets say you need to make a cut that is 1/4" deep. You install your bit in the router and lower it until it touches the wood. (Power off, unplugged) Now you set the ring to zero at the little reference arrow. Lower the bit until the arrow points at 1/4", lock the cam and you are ready to go.


Okay, that makes sense, since different router bits are going to be different sizes and the zero point will need to be reset for each.

Why does the bit need to be pulled back 1/8"?

It's late now so I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

Thanks for the welcome!


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the Router Forums Thalia. Glad to have another female join our forum. You will fine all the members here more than willing to help, regardless of gender.


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## Thalia (Jul 20, 2007)

Well, I pulled the bit out about 1/8", then tried to adjust it so the end of the bit would be flush with the wood (the zero point) and it only got so far and stopped, with about 3/16" sticking out, because the shaft lock pin prevents it from going any further. I don't know if I could push the pin in so it sneaks behind the collar of the casing and then lower it, which will take 50% more hands than I have; and anyway it looks like it's not really meant to do that. The bit I'm using is a 3/8 inch straight, so it's one of the longer ones.

I took it to Sears and the guy there mostly tried to muscle the thing around while complaining about his bad wrist, couldn't, and so declared it stuck. He then told me I could send it off to be repaired but that it would cost about $40 and take two weeks, so I brought it home with me, which is when I saw that the pin was preventing it from retracting any further, so I unlocked the cam and lowered it and it was fine. 

I think I might need those instructions on adjusting the depth ring.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Dobie says - HI
(Sorry - couldn't resist)

Sounds like your Craftsman works about like my Ryobi.
If so then -- 
If you press the shaft lock pin in BEFORE you insert the bit -- it does prevent the bit from going in all the way.
I insert the bit first - then press the lock pin (it still goes in plenty far to lock).

On the depth adjustment --- 
Again assuming we have similar units --
You loosen the clamp -
Then twist JUST the larger ring to raise or lower the housing/bit -- and it CAN be tight - but no - it does not need a $40 repair.
When you have the bit flush with the base - turn JUST the smaller ring till ZERO is at the marked point.
THEN - 
Twist BOTH RINGS TOGETHER - until the desired dept is at the mark.
If this is your first pass -- avoid going deeper than 1/8th inch.

Hope this helps


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The reason the bit gets pulled back out 1/8" is to ensure the collet can function properly. As it tightens it moves the bit back slightly. If you dont allow the 1/8" then two things can happen: the collet will jamb so tight you will have real trouble getting it out, or much worse it wont tighten enough and can come loose. This is not as likely to happen with a split shaft collet like you have, but like a surgeon you do it the same way every time for safety. Unplug and pull the bit out 1/8". You may be using a different router where this habit will be required.
Now, not all routers are the same and some will swallow the bit to the cutters. Others accept the proper amount of shank for safety. If your bits shank has 1" past the outer end of the collet nut inside the shaft you will be fine. Other routers may need more shank inside for safety.


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## Thalia (Jul 20, 2007)

I think I had been trying to take too much off per pass. When I did it the proper way taking 1/8" off at a time like Drugstore Cowboy says, the bit stayed put and I got a nice smooth finish at the bottom of the cut. I also pulled the bit back out 1/8" too.

Was it entirely because I'd been trying to take off too much (3/8") that was making it slip out? And how much did putting the bit in all the way and not backing it out contribute? I guess what I'm asking is, that it's okay now, but should I worry about something being prone to be loose because it was misbehaving earlier, or was that all my fault and the router itself is fine so long as I treat it properly?

(And Drugstore Cowboy, I don't get a lot of Thalia Menninger references--tell Dobie I miss him.)

Thanks a lot guys!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

You learned an important lesson. If the router is acting up, something is wrong. In this case it was your method. You should have no more problems. Remember when free hand routing you move counter clockwise around the outer edges of a board and clockwise for an inside cut.


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