# Small Router Table



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

1st. Let me say thanks to Corey for the ideal and the push  

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/4797-my-minirouter-table.html


Sorry this is going to be a long post but alot to show and tell about this one.
It may take two pages ..

Bj 

*********NOTE**************
Just a quicker way to view ALL the snapshots at one time ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/gallery.php?userid=6787&pp=10&showthumbs=1&page=1

Page 1 of 3 see below SORRY 

Page 2 of 3 ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/45519-post2.html
Page 3 of 3 ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/45757-post27.html

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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Page 2 of 3

Page 3 of 3 ▼
http://www.routerforums.com/45757-post27.html

Just more below

Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bob, that's awesome! I love how you got it switched and the fence with the DC chute on top. So how you like that little router? It is really easy to raise and lower and fine adjust and works great in the table with all the controls up front don't you think? 

What is the table top material, it looks like that same poly material the fence is made out of and I know in the other post you said it was 1/4 inch thick. You cut that top hole to fit the plate with the scroll saw and sanded it up smooth to fit the plate and then glued it to the MDF? What glue did you use? Then you used the inside edge to cut away the mdf center of the hole and it leaves the ledge in the process?

Awesome BJ!

Corey


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Bj,

I have to give it to you buddy.... that is a first class job on that project. I love it!

I like all the nice luxury features you added to it. I have a feeling that there is one in my not too distant future. Your's and Corey's pictures have been save for reference.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Corey

It's your ideal,  the top is 1/4 " thick white plastic the same size as the router plate.. 
I like the router alot and like the VS on the bottom (top) easy to get to from the front... I like quck and easy as you know and this little table I'm going to using all the time 
I make alot of boxes like you and I can get right up to the work with this one.

The Vac. system is great and it hit like a tank one night why add more stuff to the fence just use what I have ... 
The swing fence lets me just pop out the router lust like the Oak-Park setup.
Pop in the bit swing the fence back and I'm set to make the next cut..

It can't take on the big bits but I have other tables to do that, I amost used a 6 1/2 " round base plate but I said why , I was going to make it so I could screw on a 2 1/4 HP router ( PC) but I did stop short after I got the router today via UPS about 2:00.

Bj 


challagan said:


> Bob, that's awesome! I love how you got it switched and the fence with the DC chute on top. So how you like that little router? It is really easy to raise and lower and fine adjust and works great in the table with all the controls up front don't you think?
> 
> It's tough to see because the way photos get uploaded but what is the thickeness of your top? What is the table top material, it looks like that same poly material the fence is made out of and about 1/4 inch thick?
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Bob 

Can't have to many router tables 

Bj 




Bob N said:


> Bj,
> 
> I have to give it to you buddy.... that is a first class job on that project. I love it!
> 
> I like all the nice luxury features you added to it. I have a feeling that there is one in my not too distant future. Your's and Corey's pictures have been save for reference.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bj so what plate did you use? That isn't the Bosch round plate is it? 

corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey Corey

Got a question for you do you have the offset base for your router the one with the belt drive inside  that's a new thing for me. 

Bj


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bud

I used the Porter Cable base plate, still in hold pattern for the other parts from Amzon looks like Fri. for the other parts...
That way I can use all my PC brass guides ( 1 3/16" )

Bj 



challagan said:


> Bj so what plate did you use? That isn't the Bosch round plate is it?
> 
> corey


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Okay Bj and Corey......

I just went out and sized up my Oak-Park table and came up with the following: 14 1/2" H, 29" L, and 16" D (almost identical to your mini tables from what I see on Bj's ruler). It has an 11" X 11" plate holding up that big Hitachi 3HP router. There are times where it wears me out lifting that big ole router in and out of the table to change bits and I believe that little Colt would be a great option to trade out when doing smaller work which would be 80-85% of the time.

Here is the challange. Since there would be little to no benefit in building a 2nd table of near identical size and weight when I could possibly make a dual purpose out of my existing table, by coming up with a way to exchage the insert plate. What about if I considered a reducer frame for the existing table hole that would take it down to a size that would hold a plate for the colt? Would it be better to simply order an 11X11 undrilled plate and mount the Colt to it? How about some ideas from you 2 geniouses that might work and save me some work and space. I may be on to something but haven't enough brain cells left to finish the thought process


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Bob 

You hit it right on the head  just order the plate you want and need and then drill the holes to mount the Bosch..
It's that easy ...more or less  getting dead on center is the hard part and waiting for the plate to show up. 

NOTE**** I had to use a LONG aircraft 3/32" drill bit (4 1/2") to get the holes drilled in the new plate, I had to drill down the threaded holes in the Bosch base plate and tape the new one to the old one so I could line them up right on dead center and I had to use a brass guide with a 1/4" dowel pin to get the base on center...in the router... then remove the tape and counter sink the holes by 3/16" so I could use the same screws that came with the Bosch. (Metic Pan head screws)


Bj


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Bj,

This may be the route I need to go. I was thinking of getting the new Triton in place of the Hitachi which allows above the table bit changes, but I am quite sure the brass inserts would be in the way most of the time and defeat the advertised feature. I think the Colt may be the ultimate answer in the long run.

Thanks for the help.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bob, my top is 14 inches deep and 22 inches long. It really is much smaller than the OP table in foot print and weight. I probably would build it even a little smaller if I did it again. The hole reason for building this table for me was easy portability. This table weighs a 1/4 of what my Bench Dog does. I expect that it ways more than the Oak Park since it is made from all 3/4 baltic with a lacquer finish and has a door on it and other metal hardware plus the heavy fence. Size made it perfect for a tiny router like this. I can grab it and don't have to get the big table out and it's easy to throw in a bit and route small pieces. 

You have a different situation really. You have your OP on a mobile base where it is set up all the time ready to be rolled around. You don't have to carry it or anything. You can just get an undrilled OP 11 x 11 plate for it and it would definitely be the easiest. However don't toss out the idea of the seperate table. yet My table is much smaller. 7 inches off the length is big and 2 inches in depth is as well and can be made smaller and I probably would make mine 13 x 20 if I was doing it again. You can pick that up and put it under your arm and carry it outside or whereever  Bob, mine is small enought that it fits on the bottom shelf of my lathe cabinet with still more room for other storage down there. 

Again it's whatever works for you and definitely the simpler overall to by a 11 x 11 plate but really you could do the same thing with DW 618 and have a smaller router than the big H but also have the power to do most jobs and lighter with the DW 618 and the plate would be drilled already  or get a DW 616 even lighter  but mounts in the same base) Lots of ways to go  Before I decided to use the palm router I was going to by a DW 616 for a little table. Hell get them all! Can't have to many routers or router tables someone once said... I think he was from Colorado 

Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bob, I wondered what the hell that was. No I didn't get any of the other bases for mine. Man, tell you what if Bosch would make a plunger base for that router.... that router would be the hottest thing going. Can't think of a better way to go for inlay work if it was plunge able. That would be sweet! I would buy another router and the base if they did. Micro Fence makes one to fit it but I can't see spending 400. for a plunge base for a 100.00 router  It's nice and extremely well made but dang.....

http://www.microfence.com/pages/Plunge/Zoom12.html

http://www.microfence.com/pages/Plunge/overview.html

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

How about just making one out of some Walnut/Hard Maple it would take a wood lathe that I don't have and some steel rods and some brass drill bushing and a spring or two 

That would be a fun project 

Bj 




challagan said:


> Bob, I wondered what the hell that was. No I didn't get any of the other bases for mine. Man, tell you what if Bosch would make a plunger base for that router.... that router would be the hottest thing going. Can't think of a better way to go for inlay work if it was plunge able. That would be sweet! I would buy another router and the base if they did. Micro Fence makes one to fit it but I can't see spending 400. for a plunge base for a 100.00 router  It's nice and extremely well made but dang.....
> 
> http://www.microfence.com/pages/Plunge/Zoom12.html
> 
> ...


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

That is sure a sweet plunger though! Making one.... Damn BJ not all of us can make a plunge base out of toilet paper like you can. What parts would need to be made on the wood lathe Bob? 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bud

Both parts the upper part and the base, both need to be on dead center with each other or to say one part then split them on the lathe into two parts then drill it out for the steel rods and brass bushing, the knob holes would be easy on the drill press..
but it maybe best to drill it out for the rods b/4 it was split into two parts.

Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Excellent Bob, the Box Joint jig looks great on the table. Will you use your old DC chute with it then? Going to put my box joint jig on mine tomorrow. 

Corey


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Looks GREAT
And raises a brainstorming question for me -
Any reason it would be a less than good idea to use an oversize round base like that to mount a 1.5hp Ryobi --- instead of a large square insert.
My thought is they are both less expensive -- AND --- could be just left on the router when I needed to use it hand held.
Still workin on my first cup of coffee --- so logic may well be flawed ----


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Thanks, I'm going to make a new DC on Sat. that sits/hangs on the output end on the router table top, it's going to be one that can move up or down from the table top ,so it can drop out of the way or pull it up to catch the chips that shoot out the end of the table top when doing slots and dados.

Corey 
Besure to post some pictures of your new push block 


Bj 




challagan said:


> Excellent Bob, the Box Joint jig looks great on the table. Will you use your old DC chute with it then? Going to put my box joint jig on mine tomorrow.
> 
> Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

The only thing that would hold your brain strom back would be the round router base plate is not over size that's to say it's flush with the Alum. base of the router the norm ,it needs to be over size by a min. of 1/2" all the way around the base to support the router when it's in the router table, if you look real close at the snapshots you will see I have 3/8" on the one I used, that was a standard PC base plate because I want to use the 1 3/16 brass guides on the table as well,,,, 
You could make a base plate to fit your 1.5hp Ryobi that's over size but I don't know of anyone that makes one as a Fac.item.
They can be tricky to make because they need to be dead on, mounting holes and the center hole for the bits...

I'm not sure what size the Ryobi is but you can buy after market base plates from MLCS that are true.
Router Replacement Bases
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...tacc1.html#All_In_One_router_plate_kit_anchor

I also have a Craftsman base plate that is 7" in dia. that will take on the PC brass guides and MilesCraft make a 7 1/2" base plate that will fit most routers BUT it has the TurnLock type guides.., BUT both would work I think on the Ryobi router... 
The 7" maybe a just a bit to small but like I said I'm not sure what the Ryobi base is.
Someone will say the plate will spin or turn in place on the router table and that can be fixed easy with a 1/16" roll pin in the router table top and a small slot in the router base plate.

Then one more thing, you must keep in mind is can you drop the router in the router table hole without taking the handles or knobs off the router. 

That's why most use the sq. plate..  it gives you room to pop it in the hole easy the norm...the round plate works great for the trim routers because they don't have handles the norm or knobs to hang on to.

The table top I made and the hole I put in is dead on so I didn't need the roll pin to lock it in place or to say keep it from turning. 










Drugstore Cowboy said:


> Looks GREAT
> And raises a brainstorming question for me -
> Any reason it would be a less than good idea to use an oversize round base like that to mount a 1.5hp Ryobi --- instead of a large square insert.
> My thought is they are both less expensive -- AND --- could be just left on the router when I needed to use it hand held.
> Still workin on my first cup of coffee --- so logic may well be flawed ----


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

HANDLES ---  
See -- I KNEW there was something I was overlooking -- 
Thanks.

I was thinking I had seen some 3rd party bases that were larger than my standard base. My current base is 6" so at 7" - the Craftsman would have been just right EXCEPT for the handles.

Thanks for mentioning that it DID accept PC bushings though.
I just this morning bought a Rockler dovetail jig.
They warned me it might be a trick finding a base that would fit my Ryobi AND accept the PC bushing -- but -- 
it was already on sale for $75 and they had a promo going that got it down to $49 --- INCLUDING the bit and bushing -- So I couldnt resist.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy
You'er Welcome


The plates from MLCS will need to be drilled out to fit your router I'm sure the MilesCfraft TurnLock plate will have the holes you need I'm sure of that and it will come with the bushing that you can use on the Rockler jig... I have all the MilesCraft jigs (products) and the bushing will hold up... 

Milescraft 1200 TurnLock Universal Router Base Plate Kit

http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-12...94-7750249?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1180811759&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-12...94-7750249?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1180811759&sr=8-3

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/2815-jig-milescraft-turnlock.html?highlight=milescraft

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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Thanks again -- see edited post above.
I really enjoyed visiting with the guys at Rockler this morning
(my first time in that particular store)
gonna go back and give them a shot at fitting me.
(they suggested I come back WITH my router to be sure)
But if they can't -- I'll swing back by the big orange box and get the Milescraft.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

If you buy it at BOB besure to read the box, they come with the 6" OR the 7" plates and also take note of the price it jumps all over the place from store to store and from outlet to outlet 

_____________
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Drugstore Cowboy said:


> Thanks again -- see edited post above.
> I really enjoyed visiting with the guys at Rockler this morning
> (my first time in that particular store)
> gonna go back and give them a shot at fitting me.
> ...


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Great can't wait to see that DC Bob. I will post pics of the BJ jig. I have eveything cut out. Nothing fancy like yours. Just about the same dimensions but will be for just 1/4 joints as for now that is what most of my boxes are. I have only the 1/4 and 3/8 jigs. I don't think I would ever use the 1/2. Actually I plan to make a 1/8 for making the hinges like you posted... that, they 1/4 is what most of mine will be. Anyway, will take a pic when I get it done. I cut everything out last night. Just have to cut the handle out on the jig saw, router it and assemble. 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Sorry Bob N.

I didn't want to cover up your new post about the new way to hold the parts for the doing the box joints but I didn't want to start a new post about the same thing.

Just some add on snapshots..


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

That is great BJ and I like how it flips out of the way etc. Neat little box as well. That doesn't look like hardboard for the top  I like it!!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Thanks, it's that nasty hardboard that will nail/dull router bits, it's the suff you see in some cheap cabinets for the walls, etc.. 

When I flip the vac. pickup down it will suck up the chips that come over the end of the router table like dado's cuts and alike.. 

Bj 



challagan said:


> That is great BJ and I like how it flips out of the way etc. Neat little box as well. That doesn't look like hardboard for the top  I like it!!
> 
> Corey


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Bj,

We are friends here and I would have had no problem where ever you wanted to post it.

I love those shots and I am sure seeing a Colt in my very near future. You have got all kinds of neat ideas going on in those pictures..... This is like a bank robber's dream come true  Can I steal some more of those?


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Bob where do you get the black piece for hooking the hose too?

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bud

That one came from http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/ but I did modify it just a bit, it had a base on it so I took the dremel and cut it off and just use the port and some of the support for it.

Then took some 10-32 x 1 1/2" Allen Flat Hds.and put in two holes to hold it in place...to the DC board, b/4 I modify the hose fiting is was to tall and had a base that would stop the chips from going in easy.




challagan said:


> Bob where do you get the black piece for hooking the hose too?
> 
> Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Excellent BJ, I will have to add that to my next order. That DC hook up would sure make clean up easier!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Corey

Yep it sure will and that's the part I hate  I love woodworking but don't like walking on chips/saw dust and the clean up after...I don't mind cleaning the equipment because I use the air gun, but then I need to clean the floor I do have a vac. pickup for the floor but I just about always need to get the broom out..

Just lazzy I guess but the broom and I are NOT mates  
They did show me how to use one in the Navy but I never got the hang of it..
Just like mops   

Bj 



challagan said:


> Excellent BJ, I will have to add that to my next order. That DC hook up would sure make clean up easier!
> 
> Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a add on item for the new little router table... 

The Incra Jig is now part of the new systems, see snapshots below


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Hey Bj, damnit I had almost that same vision in adding my Incra to the bench dog but just not enough overhang. That looks great Bj and I bet the colt worked like a breeze. Nice work as usual BJ. 

Just came back from Menards.... 711.00 One 36 x 54 Solid Surface Counter Top and 6 2 X 4 plywoods for the new router table and stand  Busy day in the shop tomorrow!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Corey

The Colt is the best router for this type of job  I pull the speed way down and it just took on the dovetail cut easy  just like it was made for the Colt and the the samll table 

711.oo WOW that kitchen is going to be nice  they don't give that stuff away do they...  
What kind of plywood are you going to use ???
Pocket screws and glue up job or T & G with pockets screws ????

If I recall you got the new OP top and you need to make a cabinet for it and a base cabinet also or will it be all in one cabinet ????

Looks like you are set for Sat. have the boss make some ice tea and keep it coming better yet have her give you a hand making the router table and put the counter top in place Sunday   ya right.... HAVE FUN BUD


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Yeah, that solid surface stuff is expensive. It's the nice part of the kitchen cause I didn't go whole hog on cabinets. I bought stock unfinished oak cabinets and finished them myself and changed out some of the hardware, added my own crown moldings and end panels I made out of unfinished paneled doors. They didn't cost 500.00 each but they look good  

Here is the kicker the counter top I just ordered it tonight and it is for the top of the 36 inch corner cab and the 18 inch drawered cab on the end so it is 36 by 54 inches. It;s the L in the kitchen. That counter was 600.00 with the back splash. Here is the kicker... the 9 foot long section with a sink cut out and seperate back splash is only 268.00 more than the other counter! Anyway... I am not using top of the line stuff in most cases and compared to granite this isn't either but it is nice than laminate. 

I finally have settled on vinyl for the floor. It's not the "trendy" thing but for us it's a quick in and out day job for the installer ( one of the few things I am not doing in it) and it's easy to change down the road, it's soft to the feet and easier on the back and the yahoo's in my house won't tear it up like a wood floor or ruin it with water like a laminate! They call me the sheriff cause I am always chewing butt on somebody on the oak floors I refinished in the hallway and living room... especially the daughter in her dancing shoes, soccer shoes etc. GET THEM DARN THINGS OFF MY FLOOR!!! Son says uh oh.. the sheriff is awake 

The rolling base will be some glued up Oak panels that I got free from my father-in-law a few years ago when he was a factory rep for that company and some oak plywood. I will be using glue and pocket screws for this and the router table cabinet it self. I will be building the cabinet for the table like the OP table only mine will have 2 drawers in the side. Bottom shelf in the base will hold the mini router table and some push blocks etc. and the other shelf will hold the OP fences, the Incra jig stuff and if room the Gifkin jig. Going to have some fun tomorrow and the best part is knowing the top is made and don't have to screw with that!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just some snapshots of the Vac.pickup for the Incra Jig on a the small router table,,,this jig can be removed with two small wing nuts if needed 

It's made with some 1/2" MDF 2ea. 10-24 x 1" carr.bolts,2ea. flat waskers,2ea. 10-24 (3/16" ) wing nuts...1" x 2 1/2 plastic apt.pickup tupe...
You will see the jig off to one side of the Incra jig this gives the tube room to lock in the hole....just push it in place and you are set to suck up the chips. 


It can be installed quick and easy by just removing the big black plastic wing and slip the Vac.pickup over the Incra jig.






====================


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

That's cool Bj, very nice. I would never have thought to do that. Looks like it will work and more! 

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Corey

I just added the last of the snapshots (4 more) for the other chip pickup ,so it will suck up the dust from making the dovetail joints/box joints or dado slots.

It works great on both pickups, I just hate to have chips all over the place and the two new vac. pickups will take care of the one. 


===========



challagan said:


> That's cool Bj, very nice. I would never have thought to do that. Looks like it will work and more!
> 
> Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I like how you attached the one to the fence like that. Very nice! 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, I hardly need to say what a fine job you did of making that router table, It did my heart good to see you actually used the plunge router with template guide for one operation but tell me Bob, why did you cut that large circle on the scroll saw when you could have done it faster and more accurate with one of you're many circle cutting jigs?, just curious.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Harry

The top is plastic and it likes to melt when using the router bit , the saw will not melt the cut and it's easy on the scroll saw,, it needs to be right on the button because it's a press fit in the plastic top so it can't spin in place.. 


=================


harrysin said:


> Bj, I hardly need to say what a fine job you did of making that router table, It did my heart good to see you actually used the plunge router with template guide for one operation but tell me Bob, why did you cut that large circle on the scroll saw when you could have done it faster and more accurate with one of you're many circle cutting jigs?, just curious.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Thats a great looking set up Bj. I know you can never have to many routers, or router tables, but you must buy those PC sub bases by the case.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I had a feeling that a pro like you had to have a valid reason Bob but the only way to learn is to ask questions and and not worry about the possibility of the answer causing minor embarrassment. Keep up the good work Bob.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Rusty

It's funny you should say that I just used the last one I had,, and I was thinking about getting some more or just buy a 1/4" x 4' X 8' off eBay for a 100.oo bucks and just make up the ones I need, I did check with HD/Lowes/Ace hardware and it blew me away what they get for that stuff 
( 3' x 4' for 38.oo) so it looks like I will get it off eBay the only that's holding me back is the shipping, I'm not sure if UPS can take on a 4 x 8 and get it here without it being in more than one 4 x 8 ...without paying for a ovezise box. 

I just made 4 (base plates) for the Colt and that took care of the extra ones I had so it's time to make some more, by the way I sure like your new bits and the router bit box the hinges are on just right and the latch is sq. to the case Grizzly can do it right most of the time  



============


RustyW said:


> Thats a great looking set up Bj. I know you can never have to many routers, or router tables, but you must buy those PC sub bases by the case.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Hi Bj,At the glass shop where I work we frequently clean out our racks. The small plastic cutoffs end up in a box up front for $1 each. Our warehousman dos'nt really no the difference between acrylic and polycarbonate so there can be great deals in the box. Most pieces are plenty big enough for sub bases or even coping sleds. Check your area and even if they dont have it up front I bet you could get some good deals by just asking about small cut offs.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Rusty

I will do that 


Bj 


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