# Runout - what is acceptable?



## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

So I'm throwing odds and ends on my new lathe.

I'm noticing what looks like wobble on one end of the piece and not the other.

I measure the run-out with my dial indicator.

On the headstock end, the runout is .002"
On the tailstock the runout is .0005"

How much run-out is acceptable? Is the .002" an indication that the bearings need replacing?

Can I turn anything on this lathe?


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Ralph, You have asked the (proverbial) $64.00 question. Think of your workpiece as a car tire. Tires can be in-balance, yet out-of-round; conversely they can be truly round, but out of balance. Both items are important. There is a YouTube out there showing a guy turning a large tree stump. He made a lampshade that was quite delicate from this huge tree stump! It must take "nerves of steel" to turn something such as that. I cannot answer your question completely, but my guess is that Bernie W. can provide some great insight on the subject! His bowls are amazing!


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

One thing I would check is put a spur drive in the headstock and a pointed livecenter in the tailstock. Bring the tailstock up and the points should be dead on. If not you may have to shim the lathe either on the tailstock end or the headstock end on one side or the other to get the points to meet. I did on mine and that cured my run out.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Bernie, what did you shim with?
So every time you knock out the MT#2 taper, you have to re-shim?


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## BernieW (Sep 12, 2006)

I shimmed mine with those shims you use for cabinets. Once tightened down I have never had a problem with it anymore. Probably anything would work. On my big one I used brass which I happen to have in different thicknesses. 





rwl7532 said:


> Bernie, what did you shim with?
> So every time you knock out the MT#2 taper, you have to re-shim?


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