# Skateboard finish???



## joek30296 (Dec 10, 2009)

My grandson got several unfinished skateboard blanks for Christmas. What's the best finish to put on these? They are already stained, so only need some type of tough topcoat. Am considering oilbased poly. Good, not good, what do you think?
Thanks so much for any suggestions.
Merry Christmas to all.

joe


----------



## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Sounds like a winner to me. Its water resistant and tough.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Pickup some fiber glass resin from the auto parts store ( pint can with hardener,about 12.oo bucks ) mix it up and pour it on the board,, wait for 60 mins. and your set..
It's rock hard and clear ,you can recoat it down the road...if needed  pickup some extra hardener at the same time most use to much on the 1st. time job..like I did.  but I didn't want to wait for it to setup and use.. 


You can add some sand blasting sand if you want to for that non slip top coat.

=====


----------



## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

If they are to be clear coated- oil based polyurethane varnish would be a very good choice for that application.

Regards
Jerry


----------



## joek30296 (Dec 10, 2009)

Thanks so much for the quick replies. Now, just gotta decide which way to go, poly or fiberglass resin. I am amazed at the wealth of knowledge on this forum. You guys are great!
Thanks again,
Joe


----------



## Gap_308 (May 2, 2009)

Joe ask him if he wants logos or stickers, maybe put em first so they last. i used to board alot, 30yrs ago. wow


----------



## Gap_308 (May 2, 2009)

like.. this is the punisher logo. you can do em in vinyl at any sign store. ask him whats COOL.


----------



## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Thing is, fiberglass resin slides like crap, adds weight and cracks. 
Should the rider go railess on the under side (A lot prefer to now) they get a smoother grind or slide from oil based poly. 
Resin will make them stick on contact and throw them off head 1st unfortunately.

I used to both make boards and ride them semi professionally about 20 years ago. 
Oil based poly is what you want, and grip tape is a must. Avoid throwing sand in the poly. Although it achieves the same goal, you can't peel it off later after it wears in the hot spots, or go to a smoother grade if its a little to stick for ya'.


----------



## joek30296 (Dec 10, 2009)

Thanks so much for your suggestions. I think we'll go with the oil based poly and we have a roll of the non-skid grip tape for the top. I really appreciate all the help.

joe


----------



## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Don't go nuts now and use a heavy grit tape.
If it's to gritty say....under 100 grit, it makes it very difficult to ollie, do flip kicks, or reposition your self in general on the fly. 100 - 120 is a good medium in my experience.
I would install 120 grit if it were me though. You can kick your foot out easily and still get a good plant, and grip on the board with 120. Its a good all around grit for street and ramp skating. Speed skaters and down hill may like 80-100 better. You can't go wrong with 100 - 120 grit though for street skating. 
You can cut small logos, and designs in it as well but make sure you have enough to cover the entire deck. Some people like to leave a gap in the middle of the board but all that does is create a nice slip area to bust your arse on  When you mount the tape *don't cover the bolts*. You want the bolts holding the trucks on to go through the grip tape. Just puncture the tape from the bottom after mounting and slide the bolts through. If you have a convex board and run in to trouble mounting your tape its an easy fix. Just cut slits in the tape and trim it to flush up with the adjoining section around the nose or tail of the deck where its convex. ( not the length of the deck, just enough to get rid of the binding around the nose and tail ) If you muck it up on the 1st try just use a hair dryer and it will peel right up. 
Happy to help


----------



## yafocak901 (9 mo ago)

Polyurethane varnish can be used on all wood surfaces to protect, beautify and seal. It is easy to use and clean up is easy. However, it can be pretty thick and is not very flexible. It also can yellow in sunlight and can crack over time.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

yafocak901 said:


> Polyurethane varnish can be used on all wood surfaces to protect, beautify and seal. It is easy to use and clean up is easy. However, it can be pretty thick and is not very flexible. It also can yellow in sunlight and can crack over time.


This is a really old thread, before I joined. Lots of really good information though. Thanks yafocak901 for reviving it.


----------

