# Danish oil



## Scottey66 (Feb 1, 2012)

Just finish a solid oak box for my wife and finished with Danish oil, I applied by brush and then removed excess with a lint free cloths, I then lightly rubbed down with finishing paper. The problem I have is it's remained tacky three days later. What have I done wrong? Any help would be appreciated. Mike


----------



## TRBaker (Jul 5, 2012)

Mike, you may have done nothing wrong. I've used a lot of Watco Danish Oil finish and it always takes at least 72 hours to dry. Humidity and temp can effect that though, so you may just need to wait a few more days. One thing you did, though, that I never have done, was sand the finish afterwards. I do that before I apply the oil and then wait until it is completely dry before coating with wax. The sanding may have effected it in some way.


----------



## jack3140 (Aug 24, 2012)

i was told and i do this with oil finish one coat a day for a week one coat a week for a month and one coat a month for a year then one coat a year no sanding the finish is beautiful .. this is the way i do it and i never put wax on it good luck jack


----------



## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

Scottey66 said:


> Just finish a solid oak box for my wife and finished with Danish oil, I applied by brush and then removed excess with a lint free cloths, I then lightly rubbed down with finishing paper. The problem I have is it's remained tacky three days later. What have I done wrong? Any help would be appreciated. Mike


Hi *Mike* - not sure that I'll be able to solve your issues above, but _Danish Oil_ is just a generic term used by a variety of commercial producers to identify a finishing product in which the ingredients are not clearly indicated - depending on the producer (and you may want to tell us which one you used?), these are at least 'drying oils' (i.e. BLO and/or Tung oil), possibly mixed w/ other components, such as varnish and/or mineral spirits.

Thus, you are basically applying a 'drying oil' to your project; these oils take a time to dry (often days!) and if over applied may 'bleed' from the pores of an 'open' wood such as oak - I suspect that w/ your brushing technique that you likely put on too much oil - I would suggest that you think about the comments given and give us some added information - good luck!


----------



## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

" What have I done wrong? "
****************************
Nothing.
A miserable finish, good thing you learned just how miserable, early on.


----------



## Wildwood (Aug 14, 2010)

Mike, I have been using Danish Oil for many years, and the one I use comes from the U.K., being Rustin's. I don't know if this is the one you have been using, but I have never had a drying problem with it. The technique I use is to apply the first coat with a brush, but to make sure that any excess is wiped away within 5 minutes. I wipe it until it is virtually "dry" to a light touch. After 24 hrs I give a very light fine sanding (500 up) and then a tack cloth to remove any dust, and wipe on a second coat with a cloth. Even strokes with the grain, (viewing against a back light to monitor) and being careful to not have any excess oil anywhere. After a few minutes, a firm wipe with a soft cloth should leave it once more "dry" to a light touch. Same treatment after another 24 hours, should leave you with a lovely even satin finish. I sometimes, but not always, follow later with a Black Bison Paste Wax finish.


----------



## jnahman (Jul 24, 2012)

*Danish Oil*

Hi,

I have used Watco Danish Oil for several years. Usually I apply it with a 400 or 600 wet/dry sandpaper and rub it in for about 20 minutes, keeping the wood well wet the whole time. Afterward, like you, I wipe off the wood and sometimes will go back and wipe it several times until it continues to set up and dry. 

I am sure you are aware of this, but I feel obligated to mention that all rags that are used should be stored in a metal container with a cover and should be wet to prevent self-ignition...wet wood is a slight problem, a burnt down building is a total problem.

When using Messmer's oil, they recommend wiping with a rag soaked in the finish to remove the top coat if it is sticky. 

Best of luck...would love to know how it turns out.


----------



## bcfunburst (Jan 14, 2012)

NOTHING WRONG! I've used Danish oil finish and Tongue oil on many small boxes. It ALWAYS takes a minimum of 3 days for a final coat to dry. I have always had great results after 3-5 coats with fine sanding between coats. Patience is the key. Best of woodworking to you. Please keep us posted. We'd love to see your end product too.


----------



## woodchuck44 (Aug 25, 2007)

mike i just finished a hope chest for my grandaughter and used danish oil some wood will suck up the oil while others are less porous my hope chest dried to touch in 24 hours depends on how much oil you used how long you let it set and how well you wiped it down these things and high humidity could count for the tacky feeling hope everything works out


----------



## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

woodchuck44 said:


> mike i just finished a hope chest for my grandaughter and used danish oil some wood will suck up the oil while others are less porous my hope chest dried to touch in 24 hours depends on how much oil you used how long you let it set and how well you wiped it down these things and high humidity could count for the tacky feeling hope everything works out


Hi *Roger* - I hope that you did not put oil 'inside' the chest? Drying oils, i.e. BLO & Tung oil, can take weeks to months to dry and will impart their smells on any contents in the chest - if that was done, then you may want to cover the insides in a shellac finish once the oil no longer smells - just saying. 

For those just starting on these types of projects in which clothes or other contents can take on the smells of the finish, the insides of these chests, drawers, etc. should be left either unfinished or covered w/ shellac or a waterborne material - several other options can be used but I typically pick the latter two mentioned. Dave


----------



## Scottey66 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hi all and many thanks for your feedback, you will be pleased to hear it has finally dried and looks and feels great. I will be applying further coats maybe now and again, thanks again. Oh by the way it was black friars Danish oil. Made in the uk, by Tor coatings. I will upload some pics at the weekend. Cheers Mike


----------



## woodchuck44 (Aug 25, 2007)

no dave i lined the inside with cedar but i did use oil underneath lid but didnt pose a problem with smell


----------



## Scottey66 (Feb 1, 2012)

I have uploaded some pics in the Show n Tell. cheers Mike


----------



## Robert Potter (Nov 30, 2006)

Hello Mike
I have used Watco Danish Oil stain for many years and love it. Most of the time I'm able put poly on the next day. But there has been a few times that it wouldn't dry and I just had to wait. I normally put the stain on with a rag, sometimes a brush and than wipe it off.

Bob


----------

