# Looking for material source...



## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Looking for a US source for knock-in flexible barbed pvc or rubber T-Bar Edging. This is a cross-section, but actual is a flatter edge








What this is used for is edgings for jigs, furniture and utility tables. I only need 4 feet total. I want to build some jigs and use this as edging for them. You cut a slot in an edge (such as a table). Then you knock the barbed section of the "T" into the slot and it creates a hard impact resistant edge. You see this type of edging a lot in good banquet tables.

I've found sources in the UK and China. But I am REALLY looking for a somewhat local (US) source where I can buy just about 4 feet total. (instead of a 5000 meter minimal!!!)


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Mike 
I believe Rockler handles this in different widths and colors and I have seen it elsewhere but do remember where,you may even find it at big box stores

Check here http://www.t-molding.com/store/home.php


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Thanks. Didn't realize Rockler had it...

EDIT-- But reading up on that... And what the jig is going to do... I think what I really need is the grip of rubber instead of just a pvc edge. If not a T-bar, then maybe a 1.5" wide by 1/4" thick piece of rubber strip that maybe glues on?

I'm building a 2-piece sled... It's going to grip pieces of wood between the "edges" of the 2 sections of the sled... (sort of like one of the accessory blocks for Otis'es QFC Clamp) That way if it is irregular or a tapered cut, it holds the work piece between the jaw-edges of the sled, using the edge of the sled sections as a guide for the cut... keeping fingers away from the blade for small pieces. That way It can also hold small pieces without me having to use my material clamps all the time (but they only hold flat stock)...


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Mike 
I look my store parts suppliers find a bunch 
T-Molding : TwistedQuarter.com, Arcade Parts Specialist
Usually sell min of 20ft but it is cheap .30 to .75 cent a ft black about $8.00 for 20ft

Google. Tee-moldings


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

I guess I can just share the UTube video where it displays the jig (people say it's not available, but they described how to make and use).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqzVglze9Nk

My German isn't good enough to translate what they are saying, but I am "visual"...


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Mike... I've delt with these guys before, good product, holds extremely well in commercial applications. Several options available

Outwater Plastics Industries


Is this close to what your looking for?
http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/lg_display.cfm/catalog/Master_Catalog_Vol_42/page/36


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

If I was making that jig I wouldn't use T molding at all. A strip of coarse grit sticky backed sandpaper would be better at preventing the board being cut from slipping.

This is a jig designed for use with a sliding table saw and is not intended for use with a saw that does not have a sliding table.

Charley


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Mike; that's 'T' cap for flooring transition strips...12' lengths. Home Depot or any carpet/flooring sales outlet.
Transition Strips


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Found something to use... Thanks. Going to town to look at it now.


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

I'd need the table saw before needing this jig, and for the tablesaw I'd need a workshop 3 times the size and a mortgage!!!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If that doesn't work out... It looks like you need some high friction material. Super-High-Friction Tape - Lee Valley Tools
High-Friction Dots & Tape - Lee Valley Tools
Bench Pucks® - Lee Valley Tools


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

vindaloo said:


> I'd need the table saw before needing this jig, and for the tablesaw I'd need a workshop 3 times the size and a mortgage!!!


I have a half-swing sliding panel saw (5' slider) in a 13.5' by 24' garage. It takes about as much working room as I needed for my cabinet saw. But-- There's more room to move around if I don't leave the outrigger tables installed except if I'm using it.

I'm on a fixed budget. I'm not rich, so I did had to save my pennies up for a _very_ long time for it. I also had to sell some of my other tools. It hasn't paid "itself" off yet, but it's quickly working at it.

I can see some applications for this type of jig --> integrated into the top of one of my cabinet saw's crosscut sleds. Smaller scale on that... but it would work for cutting small pieces and still keeping hands away from the blade.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> If that doesn't work out... It looks like you need some high friction material. Super-High-Friction Tape - Lee Valley Tools
> High-Friction Dots & Tape - Lee Valley Tools
> Bench Pucks® - Lee Valley Tools


Charles-
I think your suggestions are more inline with what I am looking for. I went to town to some flooring suppliers... and they were all PVC... concept is there, but would not be much grip to those.

Now to decide on the silicone tape or the sand paper type of tape. At first I thought the silicone would certainly be more grip, but it might not be that durable. It only comes in 12" pieces, so if I went that way, I'd need 4 of them.

The sand paper kind of tape would ceratinly be more durable and is a whole lot cheaper.

Though, the best choice for me seems for me to buy a sheet of that bench puck material and cut it into strips.

Thanks Charles!


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Mike
How about the rubber they use for push blocks
Peachtree Woodworking Self Adhesive Rubber Mat PW2892
Peachtree Woodworking Self Adhesive Rubber Mat PW2892 - Amazon.com


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Mike, I watched a good part of that video but my German is a little lacking. I only got "sprecher" means speaker and that the groove was drei millimeters or 3 millimeters in English. However, it appeared that the important part was that your work stay in place while you were pushing. I bought a cheap Sears (3rd) saw while I'm here in Alberta, the one with the extendable wings (piece of crap for the most part), and the fence wouldn't lock tight. It has a tang on the far end. I used one of the sandpaper dots stuck on the end and that worked. 80 grit sandpaper glued to the fences should work. Use a water soluble glue like LV fish glue and you can replace it without replacing the jig. The high friction material used on the pucks should work and will probably last okay. The material used to line the bottom of tool box drawers (also used as RV curtains) might work okay and is dirt cheap. A piece of one of those non-slip router mats would also probably be okay.

Just before I left the mantel factory I built a jig to make 45degree miters for legs using a panel saw like the one in the video and the results in veneer covered particle board were near flawless, the only flaw being that the jig I made wasn't holding the pieces quite tight enough. 2 days later I was gone before I could perfect it.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I think that rubber will give you positioning errors. I frequently use 60 grit sticky backed sandpaper for this use. Since the board never slides across the sandpaper there is never a mark left by the sandpaper. It just provides thousands of tiny points that hold the wood from sliding and it leaves no marks in the wood at all. Earlier models of Leigh dovetail jigs used sandpaper on the surfaces of their clamps to keep the clamps from slipping. It just works, and it doesn't mark the board. You have to try it to become a believer. Even a piece of 100 or 120 grit paper will work.

Charley


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