# Jerry's Disappointment



## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Well, this was a bad day in the shop, I am discouraged but will learn something from it.

I had worked so hard to get the miter lock bit set just right and cut the edges to be cut with the bit off at 45 degrees. Got the set up with feather boards all set and started in on the eight parts that were supposed to be used to create the four corner styles for the cedar chest project.

Then came the disappointment. The bit just chattered and ripped and ruined the parts. Once the first part was messed up I went ahead and tried to cut the rest of them and they are all no good.

So, my first question is this. Does anybody have any idea as to the life of a miter lock bit? I'm cutting QS white oak which is very hard and the cutters do seem to be dull to me. 

Just have to ask if anybody else has experienced what I have described. I don't recall having this problem when the bit was new, so I do suspect that it is to do with the being dull. If that is the case I suppose that if a person wants to use the bit that they might need to buy more than one of them so that they can ash can a bit when it quits cutting.

Gosh, it's hard to admit that I really screwed up, would have liked to have been able to say that things really went well.

I just ordered a new Whiteside bit, I'll see if I like it any better that the Infinity.

Jerry


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Jerry...how old is the bit, in terms of cuts...?

...and might something else be wrong...? are you cutting edge or grain...? router speed...? is the router clamped tight...? is there any gunk on the cutting edges...?

if you're cutting end-grain, is the piece clamped tight to your miter...?

...do you have something like this http://www.amazon.com/Trend-DWS-P3-...8507&sr=8-8&keywords=trend+diamond+sharpening

...if I recall correctly, your method would allow you to set the height and then the fence...this would allow you to take smaller bites moving up to the edge line...?

Sorry if my questions are too basic...didn't want to ignore the "back to basics" approach...


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Jerry, did you try and take small bites at a time...or cut the full depth at once?

Considering that the wood you're using is damn hard, small bites may help.

Are the bits 1/4" or 1/2" shanks?


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Nickp said:


> Jerry...how old is the bit, in terms of cuts...?
> 
> ...and might something else be wrong...? are you cutting edge or grain...? router speed...? is the router clamped tight...? is there any gunk on the cutting edges...?
> 
> ...


You and I were thinking the same thing! You beat me by a minute!


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Nickp said:


> Jerry...how old is the bit, in terms of cuts...?
> 
> ...and might something else be wrong...? are you cutting edge or grain...? router speed...? is the router clamped tight...? is there any gunk on the cutting edges...?
> 
> ...




Nick,
I have used the bit quit a lot and the cutter looks like it is dull. I do have the the larger bit for thicker material and it has never been used so I could compare its cutter to the one that I have used so much, but the best test will be to try a new Whiteside bit.

I am not doing end grain cutting. The cuts are on the edges of 24" long workpieces that will form the corners and/or the legs of the chest.

Due to the nature of the miter lock cut you can't sneak up on the cut, you have to make in in one pass.

I do not have the stone that you mentioned, maybe it would be a good idea, I'll call Infinity on Monday and talk to them about using a stone and ask what they think the life of such a bit should be.

Thanks for the interest and trying to be of help.

Jerry


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

cocobolo1 said:


> Jerry, did you try and take small bites at a time...or cut the full depth at once?
> 
> Considering that the wood you're using is damn hard, small bites may help.
> 
> Are the bits 1/4" or 1/2" shanks?





Keith,
The bit has a 1/2" shank. As I said to Nick, you can't sneak up on the cut due to the way the bit is configured.

Jerry


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

I think you can sneak up on a cut if you shim the fence. Add an aux fence in front of your fence after you set up. Then after the first pass, remove the aux fence and make the finish cut.


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## pal (Feb 13, 2008)

kp91 is quite right when you have your fence set up you can use a couple of aux fences to cut down on the thickness you take in one pass.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

I have used my Whiteside miter lock bit to mill at last 150 lf of running length corners. Mostly in Ash or poplar. I do touch up my bits after use to keep them sharp longer. My first lock miter was an Infinity. I could never get it set right. The bit was off. However that exercise did pay off in being able to set a lock miter easily now. I am waiting to hear if it was your infinity bit.
Though I have not done so, I do think it can be milled in several passes. Instead of feathering the fence, I use chock blocks behind the fence that I fasten to the table. Mine are mounted in the t track the fence uses on one of my tables. I use scrap and c clamps on another table. After I chock the fence I loosen it and put shims between the chock and fence.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Jerry, I use a set of diamond hones made specifically for router bit touch ups. It does help. 
You might also be able to cut away some excess material before using the router. QSWO is tough. I'm just finishing a couple Morris chairs in QSWO. Even just cleaning up after using a mortiser rapidly dulls my tools.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I used a lock bit once and never touched it again. It wasn't worth the effort it took to set it up. It also wasn't worth the money it cost. I seldom need a miter joint. If i do then I simply glue it. If I want to get fancy Ill add a spline. Either way I can finish faster than trying to set the bit up correctly. I have used a 45 degree bit in the past to make a miter joint. They are simple to use and give a very accurate cut. Your problem could be some bad wood and not the bit.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

kp91 said:


> I think you can sneak up on a cut if you shim the fence. Add an aux fence in front of your fence after you set up. Then after the first pass, remove the aux fence and make the finish cut.





Doug,

The shimmed fence idea is certainly something that I going to try. It makes sense to me.

I am wondering if the fact that I had cut the edges to 45 degrees before running the parts over the bit and this may have been a mistake. I'm not sure yet.

In regard to the shims, how thick do you think the shim should be on a quarter inch thick piece of material.

I am going to rip off about a half an inch of the material where the failed cuts are and try the shim idea and see if I can salvage the workpieces.

Jerry


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

IMHO 1/4" QSWO is to thin. It splinters thicker than details on the smallest lock miter bit. Maybe with shallower pass it will work


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

paduke said:


> IMHO 1/4" QSWO is to thin. It splinters thicker than details on the smallest lock miter bit. Maybe with shallower pass it will work




Bill,
Help me out here, I do not understand what you are saying or trying to explain to me. I'm using 3/4" material and was thinking about using 1/4" MDF for the shim to be placed against the fence for the first pass and then removing that piece of MDF for the second pass. I know that I would first let the bit cut through the shim before making that first pass so that the shim can be attached to the fence.

Jerry


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Can I ask what type of router you use? 

Those bits actually work best full pass in my experience, I used them in my 1.5 hp Jet mini shaper that has an induction motor.

I would never use anything less than a 3-3.5 hp router using that bit. Using an under-powered router normally means the RPM has to be cheated up to try to compensate the lack of power. More than one pass and under powered router all adds up to a poor cut and dulling the bit faster. These type bits are really close to shaper type operations. 

For people that never used the bit at all, I know you have, below is a link for some basic instructions that show how to use the bit and set blocks to adjust the bit height and fence:

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics2/TM26-29lockmitre.pdf

From experience if the wood isn't dead on flat and straight forget about using this type of bit altogether. I always, 100% of the time, use perfectly flat plywood in the same thickness of the hardwood to test all my cuts especially using a bit like this. I never cut any hardwood until I can get the ply to mate perfectly. If you can't get the ply to mate up it can only be a few things that can be wrong. The set up is wrong. Either fence and bit height is off, the feather boards are not keeping the stock exactly flat and tight against the table or the bit lost its profile. Other than an under powered router there isn't much more it could be. The ply take the router power and bad lumber out of the equation.

If the plywood works perfectly and I suspect it will with your new bit, then we know it's the wood. It's most likely not the same thickness throughout and/or some other defects to it.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

I thought you were trying to use 1/4" stock I misread. White oak can "shatter" not a good term but in my limited time with it I have had to be careful with grain direction or it will splinter off. to see if its the bit try milling some pine


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

dovetail_65 said:


> Can I ask what type of router you use?
> 
> Those bits actually work best full pass in my experience, I used them in my 1.5 hp Jet mini shaper that has an induction motor.
> 
> ...



My router is the Porter Cable 890 2 1/4 HP, which might sell be the problem.

When I first got the bit and made a cedar chest using the Infinity miter lock bit with the QSWO, I had relative good luck with it, not perfect but with some glue and sanded dust to fill in the error all was exceptable and the appearance of chest is alright.

Of course the bit may be dulled by now and will only know after trying the new bit, but you sure have me thinking about the power of the router, ummmmm

I use my jointer and planer to mill the wood to be as flat and straight as can be accomplished with such tools.

By the way I do have the speed of the router dialed down as slow as it will go just in case anybody wonders.

I my earlier thread I explained how I am doing the set up and am confident that it is dead on.

Today I cut about a quarter of an inch off of the edge of a couple of the workpieces that I had messed up with the bit and re-cut them, they cleaned up pretty well but not enough to salvage the parts.

These challenges are what makes me both frustrated and the challenging. I'm going to keep trying to get it right, a larger router more powerful router might be the answer.

Jerry


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

OK Jerry you have narrowed it down. Might try higher speed I think it will help Just for fum trying honing the bit and see if it helps


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

paduke said:


> OK Jerry you have narrowed it down. Might try higher speed I think it will help Just for fum trying honing the bit and see if it helps





Bill,

I will try what you suggest, but I do know that when I first got the bit and was having trouble with it I phoned Infinity and the first thing that they said to try was to slow the router down as slow as it would go.

I think that it would be a good idea to try the bit in some softer wood like walnut and see what happens.

I had another idea, the parts that I'm using are only 2.5 inches wide, a little hard to handle on the table compared to say parts that are five to six inches wide.

Maybe I'll try a wide board, cut the horizontal cut on one edge and the vertical cut on the other, then rip the edged to the desired width.

Jerry


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## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Bill,
> 
> I will try what you suggest, but I do know that when I first got the bit and was having trouble with it I phoned Infinity and the first thing that they said to try was to slow the router down as slow as it would go.
> 
> ...


In that case, I think I would be inclined to do two tests. One at low speed and the other at wide open throttle. That should take care of that question.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

cocobolo1 said:


> In that case, I think I would be inclined to do two tests. One at low speed and the other at wide open throttle. That should take care of that question.



Yeah, one thing at a time until one gets the results that one wants.

I have to wonder if woodworking would be nearly as interesting if we never had any of these problems to solve. As I have said so many times, it's the challenges that intrigue me. You guys and gals for that matter that know everything must find woodworking to be rather boring. I should not say "know everything" as nobody knows everything about anything, but lots of the folks on this forum sure seem to know it all.

I have yet, for example seen a post or thread in which Stick needed to know something or for that matter seen a question posted that he did not have an answer for.

Harry is another one that seemed to have all of the bases covered.

Our late friend Dick Willis seemed to have a good answer for me no matter what I asked of him, Sure do miss him.

My contributions to the forum seems to be pretty much my asking questions that others, in their desire to be of help, trying to be of help and then being so tolerate of my inability to always understand what they are try to tell me.

Jerry


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Bill,
> Help me out here, I do not understand what you are saying or trying to explain to me. I'm using 3/4" material and was thinking about using 1/4" MDF for the shim to be placed against the fence for the first pass and then removing that piece of MDF for the second pass. I know that I would first let the bit cut through the shim before making that first pass so that the shim can be attached to the fence.
> 
> Jerry


Quarter inch shim would work fine.


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## bcfunburst (Jan 14, 2012)

mgmine said:


> I used a lock bit once and never touched it again. It wasn't worth the effort it took to set it up. It also wasn't worth the money it cost. I seldom need a miter joint. If i do then I simply glue it. If I want to get fancy Ill add a spline. Either way I can finish faster than trying to set the bit up correctly. I have used a 45 degree bit in the past to make a miter joint. They are simple to use and give a very accurate cut. Your problem could be some bad wood and not the bit.


I have used 2 different lock miter bits to do boxes for a long time now. Perhaps lucky, but I have not suffered any of the afore mentioned problems. I bought 3 bits of each, 45* angle and a drawer lock miter, all w 1/2" shank; in my Triton TRA001 Table mounted Router. Once you have the bits set right, make a set-up block for both halves. Saves a lot of time and helps with accuracy!! I must admit I bought cheap bits, but so far they are doing very well in all the hardwoods I use. The bits are all from ELITETOOLS.ca I am very happy with the performance of these heavy duty cutters. I do NOT believe it to be a good idea to run these big cutting bits @ the slowest rates. That is my own opinion from my own experiences. I like how these bits perform at slightly better than 1/4 throttle.
Keep trying Jerry. You'll feel great once you get there!! Just think, SAFETY FIRST.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

bcfunburst said:


> I have used 2 different lock miter bits to do boxes for a long time now. Perhaps lucky, but I have not suffered any of the afore mentioned problems. I bought 3 bits of each, 45* angle and a drawer lock miter, all w 1/2" shank; in my Triton TRA001 Table mounted Router. Once you have the bits set right, make a set-up block for both halves. Saves a lot of time and helps with accuracy!! I must admit I bought cheap bits, but so far they are doing very well in all the hardwoods I use. The bits are all from ELITETOOLS.ca I am very happy with the performance of these heavy duty cutters. I do NOT believe it to be a good idea to run these big cutting bits @ the slowest rates. That is my own opinion from my own experiences. I like how these bits perform at slightly better than 1/4 throttle.
> Keep trying Jerry. You'll feel great once you get there!! Just think, SAFETY FIRST.


Sure makes me wonder if the more powerful router is what I need. Eventually I will find out. Thanks for the post, it is encourageing.

Jerry


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

For setting up these bits I use a Lock Miter Master jig. They make setting up the bit height and fence position so easy it only needs one test cut to be certain that it's right. For very hard woods like white oak I set fence stops so that I can return the fence to exactly the same position and then move it over to take shallower cuts, moving the fence a little bit closer toward the stops after each pass until the fence is again against the stop. This final pass is just a cleaning pass of .010-.030" or so. A push sacrificial block is always used to follow the board being cut to minimize tear-out.

The Lock Miter Master jigs look like the photo attached. They are held in place on the bit by magnets in the jig. For a perfect, sharp edge joint, you align the bit height and fence position to the long lines. If you want a more blunt edge, you adjust the fence or the bit height to one of the shorter lines, but only do this for one position, not both. These are available for both sizes of bits. They were invented by the same guy who designed the I-Box jig. As far as I know, Infinity Tools is the only source for these.

Charley


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

CharleyL said:


> For setting up these bits I use a Lock Miter Master jig. They make setting up the bit height and fence position so easy it only needs one test cut to be certain that it's right. For very hard woods like white oak I set fence stops so that I can return the fence to exactly the same position and then move it over to take shallower cuts, moving the fence a little bit closer toward the stops after each pass until the fence is again against the stop. This final pass is just a cleaning pass of .010-.030" or so. A push sacrificial block is always used to follow the board being cut to minimize tear-out.
> 
> The Lock Miter Master jigs look like the photo attached. They are held in place on the bit by magnets in the jig. For a perfect, sharp edge joint, you align the bit height and fence position to the long lines. If you want a more blunt edge, you adjust the fence or the bit height to one of the shorter lines, but only do this for one position, not both. These are available for both sizes of bits. They were invented by the same guy who designed the I-Box jig. As far as I know, Infinity Tools is the only source for these.
> 
> Charley


Charles,
I guess that what I wrote about in regard to setting up the bit did not register with you. Of course that's alright, the saying "different strokes for different folks" applies here and that's a good thing.

The part that I see with what you and most knowledgeable and/or experienced people use does require when using the the gauge and/or the set up blocks is that you need to mill your material to 3/4".

The method that I use and described does not require that you need to know the thickness of the material as long as it is within the parameters of the bits limits.

Even though I don't see as well as most people, I can eye ball the first setting about as close as one can get with the gauge or the set up blocks. Yes, I admit that I might need to take a couple more test cut but necessarily.

If anybody would like the set up gauges, send me an address and I'll give them to you as they are completely worthless to me, but somebody might like to have them. The gauges for the both size bits are for the Infinity bits and may not work for bits of other brands.

Anyway Charles, I know where you are coming from and respect your opinion, I just am asking that you respect mine too which of course I know that you already do.

I suppose that I'm just defending my opinion as it runs against the grain of the big boys that have all the knowledge that I wish that I had.

Jerry


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

I phoned Infinity this morning. I asked if they felt that the 2 1/4 HP router was adequate or not, they pretty much assured that it is, that was good news.

While of course they could not make any reference to the life expectancy of the bit, they certainly implied that it will eventually get dull which is of course common sense, no surprise there.

In regard to the speed of the router which has come up in one of the posts to this thread, the guy I talked to said to start at the slowest speed of the router's setting and then slowly increase the speed until you find the "sweet spot". This is contrary to what I was told by Infinity when I first got the bit and certainly is what I will try.

I'm anxious to get the new Whiteside bit and see if it cuts in a manner that will indicate to me that the Infinity is indeed just have gotten dull. If that is the case I will consider getting the stone that Nick suggested and try to sharpen the cutters on the old bit. I'm not one that is a whiz at sharpening tools so that may or may not work for me. My neighbor buddy is pretty good at such things and he might be able to help me. I might even put the bit in the mail to Nick and let him examine the cutters and work them over for me if he would consider doing that for me.

Live and learn, that's what makes life interesting isn't it.

Jerry


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

I remember that when I ordered the Whiteside bit that the information about the bit said that it cuts stock from 1/2" to 3/4" thick.

This caused to me think that I remember reading that the Infinity bit will cut from 3/8" to 3/4" stock, no bit deal but interesting.

Also, the Infinity site says that their bit will cuts that are "smooth as glass".

I have never, even with the best cuts that I have ever gotten with the Infinity bit had a surface was that was even close to being smooth, let along as smooth as glass.

This adds to the challenge of finding out how to use the bits.

Sure would be great to finally be able to cut miter lock joints that are "correct".

The set up is all that I can say for sure that I feel like I have mastered to my satisfaction.

Jerry


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> I might even put the bit in the mail to Nick and let him examine the cutters and work them over for me if he would consider doing that for me.
> Jerry


Be happy to...at your convenience...


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Here I am again. Spent some more time messing with the miter lock bits. First, I had never used the large bit so it was still pristine. I set it up and gosh, it cut just fine, I'm very happy with it.

I looked closely at the cutters on the smaller bit that I had been having the trouble with. What I found was pitch build up on the cutter, so I soaked it in Mineral Spirits and wiped the gunk off as best I could.

The cut improved, I would say satisfactory, not wonderful but very useable. I have to be honest and admit that most of the problem that I had with the cut with the smaller bit was due to not being able to feed the material over the bit and keep it in place.

One other point, I did the set the set up with both bits without the gauges, but, true confession time, if I had used the gauges the set up would have been faster.

Using the gauge or even set up blocks do not have be perfect due to have the fact the final set up will need to be tweaked anyway. My apology to Charles, he was right that the gauges do speed things up.

I was able to set both bits without the gauges, but I had to do more test cuts than I should have, but by the same time I did get familiar enough with the bits to do the first set up much closer that I had been doing before. It's just a matter of getting familiar with the tool like so many things.

Jerry


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Jerry,

If you have a way that works for you, GREAT!! I was only trying to make you, and others, aware that such a jig existed for setting up to cut with these lock miter bits. As for different thickness boards, with the lock miter master jig It's necessary to mark the test piece with a center line and then use it to line up to the long line of the Lock Miter Master jig. I didn't say this in my first post, but setting up for the center of your stock allows you to use any size stock within the range of the bit design and this makes the set-up easy to adjust for any board thickness. You just have to find and mark a center line on whatever thickness stock you are using and then set the gauge on the bit and adjust the bit height and fence position to that stock center line. Here is a video to show how to use it. He is by no means a professional woodworker, but you can see how easy it was for him to get good results on the first try. 




Again, if you have something that works well for you, by all means use it. If you are having trouble, then one of our suggestions might make things easier for you. This is
my suggestion for making lock miter bits easier to set up. I haven't used my lock miter bits in over a year, but I always reach for these jigs to set them up whenever I do use them. For me, they were well worth their cost.

Charley


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Oh, I forgot one thing that I wanted to pass on in regard to the set up procedure.

The last thing I did before leaving the shop and with the set up for the small bit just perfect in my opinion, I noticed that the very bottom of the bit sets at a position relative to the bottom face that is flat on the table so that as you slowly slide the workpiece into the bit, with the router turned off by the way, that the bottom edge of the bit is just a scooch below the bottom edge of the workpiece.

Also, remember that the bit cuts a maximum thickness of material of 3/4". The workpiece in the photos is about 1/32" shy of being a full 3/4" thick. It does appear that if a person were to try to set up for stock that is 3/4" thick that if the very bottom of the edge of the bit were in line with the bottom face of the material that the set up would be as close as one would get with a set up gauge. Any comments on the observation?

Jerry


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

CharleyL said:


> Jerry,
> 
> If you have a way that works for you, GREAT!! I was only trying to make you, and others, aware that such a jig existed for setting up to cut with these lock miter bits. As for different thickness boards, with the lock miter master jig It's necessary to mark the test piece with a center line and then use it to line up to the long line of the Lock Miter Master jig. I didn't say this in my first post, but setting up for the center of your stock allows you to use any size stock within the range of the bit design and this makes the set-up easy to adjust for any board thickness. You just have to find and mark a center line on whatever thickness stock you are using and then set the gauge on the bit and adjust the bit height and fence position to that stock center line. Here is a video to show how to use it. He is by no means a professional woodworker, but you can see how easy it was for him to get good results on the first try. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBMWj3-b4P4
> 
> ...



Charles,
I suspect that we would be able to communicate better if we were face to face. Writing as we have to do on the forum gets a bit ackward from time to time.

I am sure that you agree. I'm in the process of mastering that darn bit one way or another and like anything else, it takes some study. I have "always" been accused of trying to re-invent the wheel. 

Jerry


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Jerry, Trend and CMT have a very good bit cleaner. The pictures show a high need of cleaning...

The brown discoloration is caused by heat from the bit not cutting but rather beating the wood into submission.

I suggest a good cleaning and the a quick hone with the diamond card I linked as an example...Trend is a good sharpener...

Glad to hear you're getting close...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Oh, I forgot one thing that I wanted to pass on in regard to the set up procedure.
> 
> The last thing I did before leaving the shop and with the set up for the small bit just perfect in my opinion, I noticed that the very bottom of the bit sets at a position relative to the bottom face that is flat on the table so that as you slowly slide the workpiece into the bit, with the router turned off by the way, that the bottom edge of the bit is just a scooch below the bottom edge of the workpiece.
> 
> ...


you need to clean that bit up...
a lot...
get you some Trend bit cleaner..
http://www.amazon.com/Trend-Tool-and-Bit-Cleaner/dp/B003OC35MQ

.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Thans guys, this is a classic example of not being able see as well as you do. Just the small amount of cleaning that I did with the MS helped a lot. I will do my best to clean the bit up, thanks.

Nobody commented on what I was trying to explain, that's alright, it's interesting to me even if it just makes other yawn. Ha Ha

Dick Willis suggested white vinegar for cleaning the blade on the TS, would it work on the bits. I need to look at the link that Stick sent.

Jerry


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

you can't go wrong w/ the trend...


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

Stick486 said:


> you can't go wrong w/ the trend...



Just ordered it, thanks again. Ordered the pocket stone that Nick suggested too. 

Do you just soak the bit in the stuff?

J


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Just ordered it, thanks again. Ordered the pocket stone that Nick suggested too.
> 
> Do you just soak the bit in the stuff?
> 
> J


yes...
in your case...
scrub w/ a nylon tooth brush...
not a metal brush..


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Jerry Bowen said:


> Thans guys, this is a classic example of not being able see as well as you do. Just the small amount of cleaning that I did with the MS helped a lot. I will do my best to clean the bit up, thanks.
> 
> Nobody commented on what I was trying to explain, that's alright, it's interesting to me even if it just makes other yawn. Ha Ha
> 
> ...


Jerry...you will need to be careful using any cleaning solvent that could be harmful to the carbide or its bond to the bit...stick with known commercial products...you will be very pleased with the Trend cleaner ...good for all tools and cutters, blades, etc...

Keep us posted...


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> yes...
> in your case...
> scrub w/ a nylon tooth brush...
> not a metal brush..


I thought brass wire brush was okay.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

paduke said:


> I thought brass wire brush was okay.


in Jerry's case, no...


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