# Laminating a table top



## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

I bought a new Triton router to replace the dropped Hitachi TR12 so it's full speed ahead to build a table for it. 

After reading some excellent build threads, I have a (rough) plan in mind as to what I'll build. Table top will be 1200mm x 600mm made with 12mm and a 25mm MDF sheet laminated together and covered both sides with 1.6mm Laminex.
While I'm comfortable with sticking the MDF pieces together and gluing on the Laminex, I do have a question about the router plate cutout. Should I cut this out before I attempt to apply the Laminex or cut the hole once the table top is made? 
I've never used a router on Laminex before so I'm not sure what to expect.


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## kbrouter (Jul 21, 2011)

Geoff, I have been researching how to do this as well. I believe you cut the hole after the Laminex is applied. I am not familiar with that product here in the states but if it's a plastic material like melamine the router should be able to handle it.

kb


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

Laminex is used for kitchen bench tops, similar stuff to Wilsonart (I believe)


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Laminex is a material like Formica. Yes, when you build your top the cut out is made after it is assembled. I suggest before you apply the laminate you enclose the MDF with hardwood strips. Make your laminate overlap the edges slightly and then trim off the excess with a chamfering bit. Apply some polyurethane to seal the wood and you are ready to make your cut out. I used a 45° bit and made a deep cut on the edges of the table in the photo. No special reason; just wanted a different look.


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

Thanks Mike,
Plan was to put a timber edge on the table, it makes it neat. (and will be the only 'real' timber in the tables, the rest being MDF and form ply)
I have a Woodhaven router plate and their router plate adjusters so the hole I need to cut is the same size as the plate.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Query:*



Mike said:


> Laminex is a material like Formica. Yes, when you build your top the cut out is made after it is assembled. I suggest before you apply the laminate you enclose the MDF with hardwood strips. Make your laminate overlap the edges slightly and then trim off the excess with a chamfering bit. Apply some polyurethane to seal the wood and you are ready to make your cut out. I used a 45° bit and made a deep cut on the edges of the table in the photo. No special reason; just wanted a different look.


Mike, is there any situation where you might want to use something like a tee square off the edge(s) for laying out, maybe measuring out something parallel to the tee slot?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Dan, all that matters is the plate is flush or a few thousandths higher than the table surface. Alignment is strictly a matter of appearance and in no way effects performance. That said I do use a square so the table looks nice. I do not use a miter slot on my tables; I guide off the fence or table edge. This works best for me and will cause people who like miter slots to wonder what is wrong with me. Once you introduce a miter slot into your table you need to make sure the fence is parralel to it. Because the bits are round it will not cause a bind like with a saw blade but it will force your cut off true if you do not have proper alignment. To me this makes sense and after all the purpose of a miter slot is to provide alignment with a saw blade or sanding disk... items which require alignment to work correctly. Both methods work but I follow the "Simple is better" methods taught by Bob and Rick.


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

I'd thought about the t-square issue and planned to put a piece of t-track in the front edge of the table. There's a video somewhere here of a German router table build that does this.


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## LiLRdWgn (Dec 31, 2011)

*Now What ???*

I just got finished putting gather a simply horizontal router table . I've used MDF sheeting. Now I want to use Formica over the bare MDF on the table top and the back for a smooth slid. The problems is finding small sheet of the Formica. All I've been able to come up with is 4' X 8' and 5' X 8' sheets. Costing a arm and leg. All I need is a 24" X 24". I don't care if it's pink poke a dot color , just anything. Is there anything that can be used ? Is there anything that can be use to get a super smooth top and back. I've been to 2 of the big box stores. Home Depot and Lowe's with no luck. I even went to a local cabinet shop with no luck, all they had was pre-made cabinet tops. Thanks for the help. :sad:


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Gene; you're statement floored me. Why would the big guys send folks away because they can't buy a 1/2 or 1/4 sheet of laminate from them?! That's just bad business.
I know there are a number of outlets in the Vancouver, B.C. area that sell in broken quantity (1/2 & 1/4 sheets)...the selection is far more limited, but in this case I doubt that you care what shade of white they offer. 
_I've_ picked up odd sized pieces from a cabinet maker, up here where I live... a relatively small community. As I say, I'm just baffled as to why your local guys won't sell smaller pieces.
*Try and locate the wholesale outlet, and ask them if they have any damaged sheets that they'd like to sell*. Check the Yellow Pages under Plastic Laminate.


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## LiLRdWgn (Dec 31, 2011)

DaninVan said:


> Gene; you're statement floored me. Why would the big guys send folks away because they can't buy a 1/2 or 1/4 sheet of laminate from them?! That's just bad business.
> I know there are a number of outlets in the Vancouver, B.C. area that sell in broken quantity (1/2 & 1/4 sheets)...the selection is far more limited, but in this case I doubt that you care what shade of white they offer.
> _I've_ picked up odd sized pieces from a cabinet maker, up here where I live... a relatively small community. As I say, I'm just baffled as to why your local guys won't sell smaller pieces.
> *Try and locate the wholesale outlet, and ask them if they have any damaged sheets that they'd like to sell*. Check the Yellow Pages under Plastic Laminate.


Thanks Dan, Went back to the cabinet shop and the guy there did give me a phone number to a place. It's about 30+ miles from here. Called them and they said they did have some discontinued material. LOL, I told them I didn't care if it had pink and purple strips on it. They just laughed and said they could come up with something.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Gene, I know you will appreciate hearing about the "Mauve Nebula" Formica I bought from HD years ago. It is kind of a pinkish tone base color with what looks like paint overspray of mauve. A 3" section was broken off the corner and I got the 4x8 sheet for $25. I figure whatever table I use it on will look simply fabulous! :jester:


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## kbrouter (Jul 21, 2011)

Dan is right. I got mine from a countertop shop. They usually have a lot of scraps.


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## LiLRdWgn (Dec 31, 2011)

Mike said:


> Gene, I know you will appreciate hearing about the "Mauve Nebula" Formica I bought from HD years ago. It is kind of a pinkish tone base color with what looks like paint overspray of mauve. A 3" section was broken off the corner and I got the 4x8 sheet for $25. I figure whatever table I use it on will look simply fabulous! :jester:


LOL Mike, wish my HD would have had some Pink, I would have taken it. Just got back from Pensacola, got a 2' X 8' piece for $15. Looks to good to use for a router table. Laminated wood grain pattern.


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## darsev (Feb 3, 2012)

geoff_s said:


> I bought a new Triton router to replace the dropped Hitachi TR12 so it's full speed ahead to build a table for it.
> 
> After reading some excellent build threads, I have a (rough) plan in mind as to what I'll build. Table top will be 1200mm x 600mm made with 12mm and a 25mm MDF sheet laminated together and covered both sides with 1.6mm Laminex.
> While I'm comfortable with sticking the MDF pieces together and gluing on the Laminex, I do have a question about the router plate cutout. Should I cut this out before I attempt to apply the Laminex or cut the hole once the table top is made?
> I've never used a router on Laminex before so I'm not sure what to expect.


Geoff,

just read your post. I am currently working in cabinet making factory, and my suggestion would be to make the router plate cutout before gluing on the laminate. It is a lot easier to cut MDF on its own, and because you are laminating two pieces together, you don't even have to make each layer out of one piece and cut a hole in the middle of it. You can cut strips and arrange them to form the hole in the centre, and arrange the two layers so that the joins between the pieces on one layer are covered by solid MDF on the other layer. We do that ll the time for large counter tops that are bigger than any sheets we can buy in.

The next advantage of cutting/creating the cutout before gluing on the laminex is that you can check it, and adjust/repair it a lot more easily. If you make a major mistake, then you can cut that bit out and glue a new bit in, and it is all hidden etc. As Mike suggested using real timber on the outside to finish off the table, I would suggest screwing real timber on the inside of the cutout as the rebate to rest the router plate on. Straight MDF will get soft over time fairly easily, potentially causing issues with holding the router plate where you want it.

When you glue the laminex on, then you can use the same trimmer to cut the laminex out of the plate cutout as you do for trimming the edge laminex. Just drill a suitable size entry hole to start with. It will be a lot easier and quicker to use a trimmer than a full size router/bit to cut out the middle.

Also, knowing that you live in Aus I would very strongly recommend sealing all sides of the MDF to prevent humidity getting in, particularly in the cutout area. It is very surprising, but when you cut MDF, it will absorb the humidity and the edge flares out so that you no longer have a perfectly flat surface. The further north you go, the more of a problem this is. Officially we are supposed to edge MDF and chipboard (to seal it) within 4 hours of it being cut to avoid problems with flaring. It is really dependant on how humid the day is, and over winter you can go overnight without issues, but if you don't seal the MDF you will end up with a small lip at the edge which could cause problems when feeding stock into the router. In extreme cases, I have had flaring up to 0.8mm, but where I work it is usually less than 0.2mm which is within tolerance for our equipment and time frames.

Lastly, just in case you weren't aware, pre-drill any holes for screws going into the edge of MDF. There are no problems using a screw gun directly going through the flat side of the panel, but you run a real risk of splitting the MDF if you don't pre-drill the edge, particular the 12mm sheet you are using.

Hope this helps.

Darryl :moil:


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Daryl, 

Very good tips and pointers. If he premade his plate cavity, then he could just use a flush trim bit to trim his plate hole...

Gene,

What first came to mind on "slick," an old cabinet makers trick of using is neutral shoe polish on the table and fence.

... Another option that I've used on materials (here where I live) is "Habitat For Humanity." It's a recylcer for building supplys. Cabinets and counter tops. Combination switch/outlets. Outlet electrical boxes. Used power tools. Always a good resource for materials for someone with a little imagination, for a great price.

I'll keep an eye out for pot-a-dot. I have seen pink.


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

In my original post, I said something like 'full steam ahead' on making my router table. That was over 12 months ago, so much for steam power. 
In my defence, I've found the Triton router table to be good enough for what I do.

Still I need a project so it's back on! 
Today I just cut a piece of 12mm MDF to the same size as a piece of 25mm MDF I already had and glued the two together. I'll give it a day or two to dry, still getting quite cold at night here, before trimming it to the correct size of (about) 900mm x 600mm.
The cabinet to support it will be made from 16mm moisture resistant melamine particle board, the same stuff used for kitchens. It's strong enough and I've got a couple of sheets up in the loft.

To date, I've no exact plan but something like the one designed by Guido Henn would be nice. While I'm for the glue dries I've time to dig out the CAD software, put the coffee on and get drawing. thanks to the excellent thread 'show us your router table' I've lots of ideas to 'borrow'.

_I really need some more clamps_


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## downhill (Nov 21, 2008)

Also call around to installers. Although not as popular as it once was there are lots of installers with pieces that eventually they just throw away.


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

Took the clamps off and stuck a straight edge across the top - not flat! There's about a 1mm drop in the centre.
I made sure that the convex sides of the two pieces of MDF were face to face before I glued them. It's wet and cold today so I'll leave it for a day or two to make sure that the glue has dried properly. I've lightly clamped it again with a thin piece of ply underneath to see if that help.
Any other suggestions to fix it are welcomed.

_If it all turns pear shaped, I do have some more 25mm MDF but it's a full sheet (3600x1200) which weighs about 75 kgs and it's a bugger to get down from the loft by myself even with the hoist._


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

Trimmed the glued up table top and made it all nice and square. Final dimensions are 1000mm x 600mm.
Put laminate on what will be the bottom of the table as I've never applied laminate before and figured if I messed up, it would be out of sight.
All went well despite if being quite cold. I didn't have a roller so used a bit of 4x2 in a towel to smooth it out.. One spot was a little high so I applied a warm iron to it. 
Despite some concerns, the excess laminate routed off nice and clean.
Tomorrow I'll do the other side then I'll have to wait till Monday when I can get some melamine sheets for the cabinet.

_Couldn't get a good shot of the laminate I used so I took one from the shed door instead_ :happy:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*"shed door...."*



geoff_s said:


> Trimmed the glued up table top and made it all nice and square. Final dimensions are 1000mm x 600mm.
> Put laminate on what will be the bottom of the table as I've never applied laminate before and figured if I messed up, it would be out of sight.
> All went well despite if being quite cold. I didn't have a roller so used a bit of 4x2 in a towel to smooth it out.. One spot was a little high so I applied a warm iron to it.
> Despite some concerns, the excess laminate routed off nice and clean.
> ...


Aww, Geoff,

You're breaking my heart........LOL

Quite cold . 35°C here in Sydney.....


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> Aww, Geoff,
> 
> You're breaking my heart........LOL
> 
> Quite cold . 35°C here in Sydney.....


I really don't miss Sydney.:laugh:

I think it got to 19°C here today with strong winds and a fair bit of rain. Currently 9°C.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

With a view like that, I'd never get anything done!!!!


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## geoff_s (Apr 14, 2012)

Went into town with the intention to buy a few sheets of melamine particle board to build the router table cabinet and came away with some very nice 17mm hardwood ply instead. Made from a local timber, tassie oak*. It's a nice light colour and very heavy, hope I can get it our of the van by myself tomorrow. I'll add a couple of photos when I do.
I also picked up some 240mm x 19mm tassie oak boards for the drawer fronts and as a solid timber edging to the ply. Increased the budget a little but it should look really good.

*_ It's actually a eucalypt and can be one of three species. It's only called Tasmanian oak if it's grown in Tasmania. It has a different name if grown in other states. Confusing._


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