# AMF DeWalt RAS



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

While perusing craigslist this morning, I happened upon something I had been looking for. There was a 1950s AMF DeWalt RAS listed for $100. Called the guy, hitched up the trailer, and lit on out.

Needs a table, a couple small knobs, and motor bearings, but otherwise it's in great shape. Maybe I'll paint it neon green.


----------



## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Nice catch, Mike. That will keep you busy for a while.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike


Nice find one of the better ones 


=========



AxlMyk said:


> While perusing craigslist this morning, I happened upon something I had been looking for. There was a 1950s AMF DeWalt RAS listed for $100. Called the guy, hitched up the trailer, and lit on out.
> 
> Needs a table, a couple small knobs, and motor bearings, but otherwise it's in great shape. Maybe I'll paint it neon green.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Yeah Bob. I've logged onto the delphi dewalt ras forums, and registered the saw into owwm. There was another one today for $250. It was a no-brainer which one I was going to get. :yes4:

The fellow also had an ole arn 4" jointer on a stand. A real cutie it was. Didn't need it though. Reminded me of a sewing machine.


----------



## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Thats a good saw Mike. 30 years ago, at the age of 14, I spent most days cutting aluminum window screen frames on one just like it.


----------



## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Thats a nice find! Do You have any of the original documentation, breakdown etc. That would be kinda nice. That was when AMF had their hands into all different things. Enjoy going through it, That looks like a real keeper.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

No original docs with it, but through owwm and the delphi dewalt forums I've DL'd copies of the manual and other papers/ads for it.
I just received the Mr. Sawdust book today. Wallace Kunkle worked for AMF when it acquired Dewalt, He has quite a story to tell in the book, as well as complete instructions on restoring and adjusting them. The Bible of RAS.
Mr. Sawdust Presents "How To Master The Radial Arm Saw" He passed away in 1997, but his book continues to sell well.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

*Roller carriage*

I got the roller carriage shot blasted, painted, and reassembled.
The motor is now taken apart, and I'm waiting for the wind to die down so I can get it sand blasted and painted. I could do it on a windy day, but I'm doing it outside with a plastic sheet under everything so I can recycle the sand. I'll see what the weather looks like tomorrow.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Great work and good choice of color.. this is going to look goood!


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

What a buy, and what a paint job Mike. Is it an 8"?


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

It's rated as a 9", but being 3/4hp an 8" is recommended. The Freud LU83R008 is the one I'll get.
Amazon.com: Freud LU83R008 8-Inch 40 Tooth ATB Thin Kerf Combination Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating: Home Improvement
It will mount a full dado stack, so my 6" Freud set will work on it.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

*In the home stretch*

Getting to the final stages. I'm waiting for new name badges, drive screws, and have to make a new table for it. At least the sand blasting and painting is done.


----------



## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Looking good, Mike.


----------



## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Professional looking job Mike.


----------



## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Glad to see that You got Walley's book. I have a Craftsman, and I felt that it was a great book, but I didn't know how much it would help Me,seeing that mine was very new when I got it. Looks great.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Trying to figure out the placement of the table cleats and center steel reinforcement bar.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

Not sure if this will help,, the bars are screwed to the main frame and to the top, should be some taped holes to hold it to the main frame and some clean holes for the wood screws that hold the top in place..

I would also suggest you pickup some angle iron ( 1" x 1 1/2" the stuff they use for shelving with all the holes in it) and mount it to the side of the RAS main frame and than fit the steel bars to it, in that way you can adjust the top ,to be true with the saw blade..not to say anything how easy it will be to replace the top when you need to..and you will down the road..



===



AxlMyk said:


> Trying to figure out the placement of the table cleats and center steel reinforcement bar.


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Mike,

You've done quite the professional job on your restore project. Looks good.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

This has been a lot of work. The sandblasting being the worse of it. Gets in your ears, hair, teeth. Ugh. I have the table to make now.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Looking good Mike. I will suggest one more thing get a paddle power switch and mount it to the base cabinet or to the under side of the top, the power switch they have on it, is a bit far back to be safe or grow some longer arms.


=======



AxlMyk said:


> This has been a lot of work. The sandblasting being the worse of it. Gets in your ears, hair, teeth. Ugh. I have the table to make now.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

That's a good idea Bob. I'll probably mount something under the table.
I got all 3 grooves cut in the table halves for the steel stringers.
Now I have to epoxy them in place, and glue the halves together.
Getting these tables absolutely flat is the key to a finely tweaked RAS.
After the table is installed, all other setup adjustments are made relative to it and the fence.

This method could also be used for router tables. The steel bars provide so much strength that you could sit on the table, and it won't bend.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Gluing the table halves together. That's a bag of concrete on it for weight.
I'll let it set overnight and get to it tomorrow.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

AxlMyk said:


> This has been a lot of work. The sandblasting being the worse of it. Gets in your ears, hair, teeth. Ugh. I have the table to make now.


That is coming along very nicely. Mike

Like the paint job..

James


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Thanks James.
Here's one more without the table. I painted the base an aged copper, the saw is hammered copper. The DeWalt tag on front is a magnet I made for fun.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

*Finished in 2 weeks*

Well, here is the final product. 2 weeks of solid work on it, and I have a practically brand new saw.
The table is a Wally Kunkel design (Mr. Sawdust). 2 layers of 3/4" birch ply with a 1/4" hard board top layer.
The saw is painted hammered copper, and the base is aged copper. Both Rust-Oleum paints.
That miter on the table edging is the first miters cut on the saw.
The sawdust catch box is a design I found on the web.
The decal on the front is a magnet I made to dress it up a bit.
Not bad for a $100 CL clunker.


----------



## tdublyou (Jan 8, 2010)

Mike,
Not bad indeed.
Wish I had room for one...Someday.


----------



## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Great looking resto Mike. I wood expect no less from a FoMoCo Tradesman - Retired.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Great job, Mike!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Very NICE job Mike

I see you have it on your router table, what's next ? a roll around floor cabinet for it..

I'm trying to recall where I saw that color ...it will come to me.. 

======


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Here are a few more pics.
DeWalt radial arm saw restoration - a set on Flickr


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

*Added dust collection*

Radial saws throw sawdust like routers do, so I added something to it.
The hose came off an old vacuum cleaner. Just happened to fit. The back of the saw is enclosed in a dust shroud and the hose blows the blade dust back into it.
There's a 4" DC connector on the back.
The second pic is the old way.


----------



## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Neat idea, Mike. A sawdust cannon.

You're having too much fun with this restoration, and it shows. Great job, and I really love the color scheme.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

The new one maybe in the way with kick back fork in place...but I'm sure you will use your table saw most of the time to rip stock with.
I'm not to sure why the designer made it that way ,same on the one I have also, it would make more sense to come out the back side of the blade guard, like many of the hand power saws are..  at one time I was going to weld a Alum.pipe to the guard but never did, it works well the way it is...just backwards..  a neat way to fill my shirt pocket/cuff up with saw dust...

==


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Nice adaptation, Mike. I like the hose clamp too... I can see where before, if the "L" fell off, the operator could feel like they've got a bullseye painted in the middle of their chest from the sawdust / chips they'd get pelted with.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I didn't like the hose clamp. Looked funky, so I made a brass one.
The hose leaves room for the kickback pawl. Not sure I like the idea of ripping with this saw anyway. The TS is much safer.


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Mike,
you did a very nice job on the restoration. it is very sharp. 

as a more inexperienced member, was the brown and copper original colors? it looks great!

its hard to tell the exact color for me, my eyes arent that great.


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Mike...

Just went through you're thread again and I gotta say, you did one heck of a fine job! From an old tool guy I gotta give ya props on this one!!!


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Thanks for the kudos.

The saw was painted the DeWalt speckled green. Was dirty and nicked up so I sand blasted and repainted it. It's all Rust-Oleum copper, just the hammered for the saw and aged for the base. That hammered paint is a PITA to use. Have to keep shaking the daylights out of the can while spraying.


----------



## Tommyt654 (Apr 5, 2009)

Nice idea Mike, Don,t ferget yur Nascar pics


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

well Mike, i have to say, the copper rustoleum is far more eye pleasing than the green speckled paint!

it looks great! 

have you had a ras before? id love to have one, but seem to be running out of room.
i have to remind myself, that i need to really think things thru before buying more tools. i really want an oscillating sander, but have to find a place for it.


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Levon...

Found I really didn't have the space for the RAS, but wanted it none the less. So I came up with this idea (see pics) When not in use, it takes up a minimal amount ofspace, yet, I have full use of it...A couple of 200 lp drawer glides and she works like a dream...


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

yours seems to slide out, i dont have that much width to use.


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Just one more for anyone who might be interested. The RAS folds back to the wall when not in use, minimizing the footprint when not in use. Table can easily be modified to eliminate the fence as well....


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Just one more for anyone who might be interested. The RAS folds back to the wall when not in use, minimizing the footprint when not in use. Table can easily be modified to eliminate the fence as well....



how about a shot with it folded up? it still takes up the same width doesnt it?


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

the table takes the same amount of width regardless, but with the table pushed back and the arm swung (folded) back out of the way, the RAS itself only stands pround of the back wall by about 10"s or so. Everything in front is flush with my countertop to the right. See the last 2 pics...

When in use, I can either leave the table where it lies or pull it out up to 20"S if needed as needed.


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

i see what you mean about it folded back. id love to have one, but have the ts and the 12" slide saw.

i just dont have that much room for one, when i can use other machines for that job. 

when you have such a small space as mine, you have to think what is more important to you.


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Mike,

Job well done my friend.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

levon said:


> i really want an oscillating sander, but have to find a place for it.


Are you looking for a big or small one, Levon? I'm really limited on space so I went with the Rigid oscillating belt / spindle sander. It's only got a 24" belt and only 4 or 5 spindle sizes but it was also under $200, including DC and a tilt-table. It's also light enough that I store it under my TS, on the TS mobile base.


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Nice setup, Bill..


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Jim

i already have a belt/disc sander. i would love to have the ridgid, the only reason i havent bought it is the width of it. 

i think im going to get something like the hf oscillating sander. it may not be as good as the ridgid, but will use less space and with the sander i have and the drill press, it should work for me.


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

levon said:


> well Mike, i have to say, the copper rustoleum is far more eye pleasing than the green speckled paint!
> 
> it looks great!
> 
> ...


This is my first RAS. I had a miter saw that our Daughter-in-law gave me when our son passed away. I gave it to our other son. Being a carpenter, he had more use for it. I bought this on a whim. Since we replaced all the doors in the house, I'll need this for the trim work.


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

im sure it will come in handy, and not ever owning one, but from things ive heard, i have a feeling that the cuts will be a lot more accurate.

you did a great job! i cant believe you used cans, it looks like it was sprayed in a factory.


----------



## Curt13 (Aug 23, 2011)

Hi Mike, Nice job! You stated that you were waiting for new name plates and badges.Would you share your source? Thanks


----------



## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

The fellow never got going on having them made. I used the originals, that weren't in bad shape.


----------

