# Enclosed cnc router build - best started at post #63



## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

Everyone has a bad day now and then, so when you do just stop by here and see it there is an update and watch this woodbutcher try to build a CNC router for some funny laughs. :haha:
Not going to pretend I'm a carpenter but going to give it a go just the same. Have a few basic tools; nothing fancy.

Hopefully I will get a 2'x4' cutting area, would like to build it eclosed for dust containment.

Started out scoring some 9 ply 3/4 inch birch plywood from our local home center and cut into pieces to build the bed.










Building the box.










Using 2×6’s laminated 3 thick for the main supports, staggered the joints and glued and screwed them together.










Putting the base frame together with wheels for now just for convenience.










Slid the base into place and fastened it.










This is going to take a while…. wow :fie:

Cheers – Jeff


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

Is there a way to embed pics instead of links or attachments?

Edit: Never mind it was on my end in edit options.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Jay, this looks interesting - I am going to keep my eye on it!

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

Update:

After squaring the frame up I locked the table box into place with an additional 8 inch band of 3/4 inch plywood on top of the birch plywood, gluing and screwing it way more than necessary. You will find that everything on this build will be overkill but movement is not an option. :0










Choose to 45 the plywood for the rails and epoxy the aluminum channel instead of just laying it horizontal with one edge up and one down. felt there was more surface area.

Once the epoxy set the excess aluminum was planed off with a thickness planer.



















Created a channel in the bottom of the box for dust collection. will drill a 4 inch hole in the bottom and mount and flanged gate valve.










Rough framing on the table almost done, just the top to complete with dust collection holes all the way around.










Top of the table getting the holes cut. sure would be nice to have a cnc router to do this. 










Finished the duct holes, glued and screwed down plus added 1×2’s the the main supports to flush em up with the oak plywood banding and leaving a channel to run wires for stepper motors limit switches and lights in the top.










Thank you for stopping by!!

Cheers – Jeff


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## bgriggs (Nov 26, 2008)

Jeff,

That is coming along nicely. The torsion box top will be strong.

You may want to consider some diagonal bracing below the long side of the table. These things can shake a lot at high speeds.

What are you planning to use for software?


Bill


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

bgriggs said:


> Jeff,
> 
> That is coming along nicely. The torsion box top will be strong.
> 
> ...


Thanks Bill,

I'm Hoping with 8 inch wide plywood in between the 5x5's glued and screwed and another over the top of that and on the outside of the 5x5 glued together with at least 100 1-1/4's between the plys on each side and 28 3 inch screws on every corner..that will suffice, it is really extremely strong Bill. Have plans for other things underneath ie. dust collector, vacuum pump, computer and controller etc.

Software is undecided. I am quite literate in cad programs, use them everyday but cam programs are up for suggestions, would like to keep it somewhat simple and cost effective to start, most likely mach4 for the controller.

A person could get really carried away with all the options in software and spend more on those than the machine. lol

Thanks for the reply!! Cheers - Jeff


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

I decided just for cosmetics to paint the dust collection holes before the formica went down, had the paint wouldn't of made a special trip to town for it. lol










Testing the rails and roller bearing for clearance and mounting option.
Thought about splitting the rails like have seen on many machines so the top and bottom can be adjusted separately but the goal is to have them perfectly parallel with each other so I took steps to do that and they are. 














Came up with a box idea to fit between the main posts, gives me the option to move the rails up and down, in and out and tilt, once everything is set.... 4 – 4 inch heavy torx washer head screws on both ends of the box should hold everything in place quite nicely and can easily be readjusted if necessary.












Added a couple oak pieces just above and below the roller bearings. just didn’t like the way it looked with the open bearing, lol form and function. 










Extremely happy right now, built the two bearing support boards for the gantry and clamped a board across the top to see how it would roll and I think I need to give myself a pat on the back. lol that thing rolls so smooth its unbelievable with no slop that I can tell whatsoever. Can you tell I'm smiling. 










Here is a close up of the bottom gantry support with the bearings, Drilled holes in the bottom and tapped for a standard 3/8th inch thread. the hole goes all the way in the bearing bolt hole which is slotted up and down an extra 5/16 inch.
A 5/16×1-1/2 inch spring was loaded into the hole before the bolt threaded in, this is not to hold constant pressure on the bearing but to give all the bearing equal pressure before tightening, plus if the track ever wears a quick loosen and retighten of the nuts and all slop will be removed.










And just a couple of quick shots of both ends. Can’t wait to start constructing the gantry for real. 












Mama thinks I should be spending more time building her kitchen and less time on the CNC. Hmmmm BOOOO. lol Just kidding she is worth it.

My next entry might take a little longer unless I burn more midnight oil. :0

Hey thanks for stopping by and having a look! Suggestion, comments and questions are welcome

Cheers – Jeff

P. S. I'm really having fun with this!!

Edit:

A Pic to help answer a question. 

As the aluminum track wear’s, the roller bearings will need to be adjusted.
As I tried to explain in pic 20 but didn’t do a very good job  the bottom bearing bolt hole is slotted for up and down movement, a bolt and spring are inserted from the bottom to add a fair amount of pressure to seat the bottom bearing to the track, then the bearing nut is tightened.

When the track starts to wear a quick loosen of the bearing nut and the spring will push the bearing tight up against the track again and then just re-tighten the bearing bolt again.

Hope that makes sense. lol










Getting some of the ruff components spruced up a little while waiting for some fat washer and longer bolts.










Trying to keep the tolerances to minimum, only about a 1/16” between the gantry carrier and the guild rail.










Have a great day!! :thank_you2:


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

Just some pics of getting er done.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Outstanding build Jay-D.... great info, great pics to support your project.. well done. Come along very nicely. 

btw: great signature!


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Hi, Jeff.
I am not a CNC fan but your machine will be huge and looks amazing.


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

*More pics*

Very little progress for the time period, too many projects going, but hey here is a few more pics; just winging it at this point, did find out those aluminum rails will not hold up so will be grooving them out and dropping in 1/4 x 1/4 stainless steel square stock. That oughta be fun and terrifying. lol

Do have all the drive components as well, did hook them up temporarily for test with mach3, all worked well but was afraid of the twin screws on the gantry so melted some HDPE and made some breakaway blocks with earth magnets and so far so good, 1200 inch pound motors all the way around, if one motor on the gantry stopped or failed I think it would rip the thing apart. :shout:

Went with a heavy duty rack and pinion gear for the Y axis instead of the screw because of whip and liked it but had to put a belted 3:1 reduction pulley in, without it; one rev on the rack and pinion was over 3 inches.

The hole 4" hole where the motors are at will have a thermostatically controlled powerful fan to keep everything cool. the extra threads will be cut off and hand wheels will be added; really all in all to many additions yet to mention and don't want to bore you. :fie:


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

Looking good! Well done!


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

That looks really good and I love the attention to detail, Jeff! It's a purty machine! 

On your motors, did you mean *1200 oz. in.*, by any chance? When do you anticipate making your first cut? Can't wait to see it running.

David


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I'm not a CNC fan either, but the early part of the build looks like it would make a cool bed.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

That’s looking really good Jeff . I’m sure these builds could be very time consuming . 
Definitely looking forward to seeing her up and running


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

difalkner said:


> That looks really good and I love the attention to detail, Jeff! It's a purty machine!
> 
> On your motors, did you mean *1200 oz. in.*, by any chance? When do you anticipate making your first cut? Can't wait to see it running.
> 
> David


Precisely right David, 1200 oz. in. As far as first cut goes, can't really say, the circuitry is a little more complicated in this build considering 4 power lift doors, vacuum system, dust collection, air compression, lighting, wireless controller, lots of low voltage to high voltage relays, 8 digital readouts for voltage/wattage/power consumption for both power sources and controllers and the list goes on and on and the worst part is I have no idea what I'm doing. lol but as the say goes - it's not the destination ..... 

I can't wait to see it up and running as well, then I plan on using it to make all the exterior engraved cosmetic panels including a domed top with lighting behind stained glass which my wife does. Even though its looks like a skeleton now, it should look like a work of art when finished, cross my fingers.  

Cheers - Jeff


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

*No way!!*

Have 2 full tables like this one, this outta be fun! hoping the gremlins will have it done by morning. lol Standard wiring diagram doesn't apply here! :surprise:



































Wish me luck, I'm going to need it.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Did you see our build, Jeff? I remember being in the same spot a little over a year ago and it was a blast. I think you have more parts, though. Are you using your own wiring schematic or following a prepared diagram?

David


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## BalloonEngineer (Mar 27, 2009)

You may need the “little guys” from _Batteries Not Included_ more than gremlins. Many years ago I remember buying a RC car because of an ad that showed all the hundreds of pieces all spread out. I like that kind of challenge! Glad to see you are not intimidated!

Very impressive build! May I suggest one improvement? You have a very stiff frame, but the design looks a little weak on your Z axis. Appears to be a single thickness of ply with laminate skins (which do help). This is where loads will be introduced by cutting forces, as well as inertial loads from direction changes. Is there any way this could be made into a torsion box or C channel shape? This would stiffen up this critical feature.


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

difalkner said:


> Did you see our build, Jeff? I remember being in the same spot a little over a year ago and it was a blast. I think you have more parts, though. Are you using your own wiring schematic or following a prepared diagram?
> 
> David


Well David, I just spent over an hour checking out your build and only managed to cover 20 of the 37 pages.  Nicely done Ace. Wish I could afford something like that!! Even watched the entire vid on soldering your terminals, exactly the way I did my first two and have many more to go. Below is a pic of the soldering station, nothing too fancy but gets the job done.

As you mentioned in your opening statement; you watched thousands of vids, lol me too - till my little head almost exploded. One of the things that always drew my attention was the spaghetti of wires running between all the components and being packed so tight. Decided quite a while ago to make the box enclosure with the component mounting surface to be half way between the front and back; then all the component wires will immediately go through the mounting surface; routed in the back and then back up to its destination, leaving front crisp and clean.

Also some interesting mounting/cooling features. Your documentation has been something I will never achieve, (which is awesome by the way) but will try and post a few pics now and then incase someone can learn from my mistakes, and also will have quite a few questions. Speaking of questions, here's one. Is it better to hook up the twin gantry steppers paralleled off the breakout board (which I did on my test and worked well) or slave them in the software?

Will be using a basic schematic for normal hookups between breakout, controllers and power supplies but beyond that I will try and draw it out, I expect mistakes. 

Cheers.












BalloonEngineer said:


> You may need the “little guys” from _Batteries Not Included_ more than gremlins. Many years ago I remember buying a RC car because of an ad that showed all the hundreds of pieces all spread out. I like that kind of challenge! Glad to see you are not intimidated!
> 
> Very impressive build! May I suggest one improvement? You have a very stiff frame, but the design looks a little weak on your Z axis. Appears to be a single thickness of ply with laminate skins (which do help). This is where loads will be introduced by cutting forces, as well as inertial loads from direction changes. Is there any way this could be made into a torsion box or C channel shape? This would stiffen up this critical feature.


Thank buddy!! Planned on adding stiffeners above the router to hide the lead screw as well but just so happens that at the last auction I purchase 27 sheets of 1" baltic birch plywood including 2 sheets that have some sort of very hard dark colored factory finish to them, anywho great suggestion and think I will go head and replace that with the 1" plus the stiffeners. 

Just though for giggles I would through in a few pics of my play area, nothing special but we have fun, you see I live in a barn, this area is the haymow. Also built a small 900 square foot addition on the end the lower section to play in during the winter months.






















































Thanks guys for the input!!

Jeff


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Thanks for the compliments, Jeff! And I love your 'play' area - very envious of the space. Also, your soldering station if fantastic!

On the stepper question, I would not run them parallel. I think it's better to slave them in the software.

David


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## BalloonEngineer (Mar 27, 2009)

I agree with @difalkner, both about admiring your play area and slaving in your control software. 

You want to use micro stepping for smoother movement. Micro stepping requires very precise current control and will work much better with each stepper driver controlling a single stepper.


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

Not written in stone but an initial layout, hoping to condense that some there is a lot more still on the slow boat from china that needs to be put on here, should get me started though. The component backer is 33"x48"x1/2 white acrylic and will have a glass door when completed. Just an interesting tidbit, the printer on the left actually prints on shrink tubing, so will be labeling both ends the wires, how kool is that?










Going to revamp this rolling tower to hold all the goodies including the computer and such, very well built and steal at the auction. Once finished this will be tethered to the cnc overhead allowing walk around unimpeded.









My snooperviser showed up for inspection and started chewing my a## for doing such a crappy job; so I let him know we were thing about backstraps for supper tonight and that should shut him up right away! lol










Have a great weekend fellas!!

Cheers - Jeff


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

BalloonEngineer said:


> I agree with @difalkner, both about admiring your play area and slaving in your control software.
> 
> You want to use micro stepping for smoother movement. Micro stepping requires very precise current control and will work much better with each stepper driver controlling a single stepper.


Thanks Balloon Engineer, Correct, but not sure if I could run 2 steppers off on driver, each stepper still has its own driver but the same signal off the breakout board runs them both simultaneously. Some folks say that if for some reason a stepper skips a step they both skip a step, have no idea but since safeguards were put in place to prevent destruction; will be going with the slave settings.

Jeff


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Loving the label idea, as its a necessity to me . We have a label maker that our headend guys use for tagging cables , but I’m not sure what the brand is . 
Could I get the name of the one your using Jeff, as I’d like to invest in one myself


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Loving the label idea, as its a necessity to me . We have a label maker that our headend guys use for tagging cables , but I’m not sure what the brand is .
> Could I get the name of the one your using Jeff, as I’d like to invest in one myself


Hey Rick, glad to. Now I haven't used this much, maybe two cartridges worth but has worked flawlessly.
There are a few longer vids on features but the heat shrink tubing feature is what drew me to this over so many other options

Dymo Rhino 4200 

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p5468.m570.l1311.R5.TR7.TRC1.A0.H0.Xdymo+rhino+.TRS0&_nkw=dymo+rhino+4200&_sacat=0






Cheers - Jeff


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

That all looks very good, Jeff. And the label maker idea is a grand one; I didn't have one but that would have been kool, like you said.

David


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

difalkner said:


> That all looks very good, Jeff. And the label maker idea is a grand one; I didn't have one but that would have been kool, like you said.
> 
> David


 Thanks David, I noticed when looking at your build there was a tablet that looked like there was a schematic drawing on it, I know you went far beyond the basic factory wiring diagram, is that something you drew yourself and if so what program did you use, if not would you have any suggestion besides smartdraw? Maybe you covered that in your build and I just missed it. 

Jeff


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## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

Something is wrong in those pictures for me.

As I turn and look around my 240sq w/ a frumpy frown
I also realize I dont have a "dog" like so.

Im taking my red ball and going home now. 

Wow Jeff that thing looks incredible as well your shop to "play in"

No way... no way at all would I have the patience putting
together all that. You guys have fun doing that.



Jay-D said:


> My snooperviser showed up for inspection and started chewing my a## for doing such a crappy job;
> so I let her know we were thing about backstraps for supper tonight and that shut right away! lol
> 
> 
> ...


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Jay-D said:


> Thanks David, I noticed when looking at your build there was a tablet that looked like there was a schematic drawing on it, I know you went far beyond the basic factory wiring diagram, is that something you drew yourself and if so what program did you use, if not would you have any suggestion besides smartdraw? Maybe you covered that in your build and I just missed it.
> 
> Jeff


Yes, I designed the circuitry and drew the schematic myself in CorelDraw X8. I didn't follow any other schematic or diagram, just sort of decided what I needed and drew it. It's a pretty good bet that some of what I drew may not be the correct symbols but it worked so that's what matters. It's been ages since I used SmartDraw but it probably has everything you need to draw a good schematic.

David


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

1 o2 Control schematics, Not perfect by any means; can’t afford the proper software. Had to draw quite a few of the components from scratch :-(


If you see an error please advise, thanks
Jeff


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Jeff, I didn't look at it for electrical accuracy but the drawing is excellent! With a drawing this good it just has to work, right?!!

David


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

Found a few minutes to get the board started, controllers first, air will blow under the fins to help with cooling and wires go through the face and will be routed on the back side. Shaping up to be a nice clean looking board when finished, 























































Jeff


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well I’m impressed already . Great idea for wire management and that clean look ! 
What’s your day job again


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## Gary Salisbury (Apr 11, 2014)

Interesting to say the least, however, we all know that "wood" expands and contract with the weather. I'm not sure wood would be a good choice if you are building a precision machine. (I don't mean to throw water on your efforts but only to discuss construction products and techniques.)

Your construction technique looks like that of a professional cabinet maker. Very nice.

These pictures were taken in 2014. What is the current state of the machine?


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

Gary Salisbury said:


> Interesting to say the least, however, we all know that "wood" expands and contract with the weather. I'm not sure wood would be a good choice if you are building a precision machine. (I don't mean to throw water on your efforts but only to discuss construction products and techniques.)
> 
> Your construction technique looks like that of a professional cabinet maker. Very nice.
> 
> These pictures were taken in 2014. What is the current state of the machine?


As perfect as when it was first built, it is in a controlled environment with heat and moisture only vering a couple of points year around, plus I'm not really looking to build a super precision machine on this build but more for the challenge, think I can still keep the tolerances within 5/1000's which is more the adequate for the work I will be doing, no offence taken, knew this starting out.

All important surfaces at this point have been covered with either laminate or stain and several coats of poly seal, do know that moisture will still impregnate but at a much lower speed and be relatively low. 

Only time will tell and a good point for thousands of others who have built wooden units to take note and beware. 

Thanks Gary for stopping by! Cheers - Jeff


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Well I’m impressed already . Great idea for wire management and that clean look !
> What’s your day job again


Thanks Rick, hope it works out, pretty much just making a large circuit board, components one side; routing on the other. lol

Day job? right now my IQ is so low the state says I'm retarded and won't let me work anywhere except a greeter at walmart; not that all greeters are like me, but just can't see me being that nice all day. :-( 

Cheers - Jeff


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

Still waiting for the slow boat from China for more components to finish the first control board but getting a few things done just the same.




































































































Thanks for stopping by!! Have a great weekend! Cheers - Jeff


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

That's really looking good, Jeff! I like the bells and whistles. Can't wait to see more...

David


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Holy smokes Jeff , is this going on the next rover to Mars . Talk about overkill lol , I love it !

Love the digital readout , where the heck you source those ?


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Holy smokes Jeff , is this going on the next rover to Mars . Talk about overkill lol , I love it !
> 
> Love the digital readout , where the heck you source those ?



Lot of bells and whistles yet to come on the main control panel. Ya lol
source those off ebay from china, 5 counts for real cheap 5-ac's and 5-dc's and seam to work really well and accurate hope to put one master readout for the whole board if space allows. 

Cheers!


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Excellent work Jeff, cant wait to see the final product


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

In case anyone was wondering what the back side looked like. Received the step down transformers from China but at 60vdc they blow up and start on fire, will have to figure out another route. :-(










Cheers - Jeff


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Bummer! So either run them at 55v or show us your automatic fire extinguisher circuitry, 'cause that's gotta be pretty slick, too. :wink:

David


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

Well it's time to start the Control and Command Center.  

Drew up a few sketches, pretty rough tho, not much of a drawer or carpenter as you can see; but I fun trying! 

Started out with a full 1-3/4 solid plywood base, laminated top and oak border that will have some inset decor later.
the component/monitors will mechanically rise via threaded rod from the back side, pics should tell the story.








































































































































Thanks for stopping by and have a great weekend!!

Cheers - Jeff


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## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

_*Spock,
Are ya daft lad? I've giv'n her all she's got, an' I canna give her no more.
You can't mix matter and anti-matter cold only to live long & prosper.*_
@Jay-D
Jeff that looks really cool. Can't wait to see it all happen!


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## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

Is that the new DewaltDremel?


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

UglySign said:


> Is that the new DewaltDremel?


Thanks for making me laugh this morning!! 

Ten years back or so I switched from the dewalt 18v to the makita 14.4 just for weight purposes, so grabbed one of the drills and chopped the handle off thinking I would use it to raise and lower the monitor box; but not sure it can handle it plus it turns to fast even on lower setting of 800 rpms. Thinking might go with a treadmill motor and gearbox, still up in the air for options.

Using 3/4 - 8 threaded rod so 200 rpms seems about right; equals out to about 25 inches per minute and travel is about 38 inches, even that seems like worp speed. LOL


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Jeff that’s going to be awesome. I love things that raise up lol . I was going to build a computer desk some day that uses a linear actuator to raise he mother board out of the desk .

In the meantime , I bought chain ,sprockets and threaded rod for another project, a work station table that I can lower and raise with my drill .
I was going to secure the sprockets to the rod with nuts , but I think you’ve found a better way?


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> I was going to secure the sprockets to the rod with nuts , but I think you’ve found a better way?


If you sprocket has a flange like mine, maybe drill straight through and use a drive pin/roller pin; worked good for me. 

If no flange personally I would spot weld a nut to one side of the sprocket and then jam nut it both sides; no chance of slippage that way.

Just thoughts - Cheers - Jeff


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Jay-D said:


> If you sprocket has a flange like mine, maybe drill straight through and use a drive pin/roller pin; worked good for me.
> 
> If no flange personally I would spot weld a nut to one side of the sprocket and then jam nut it both sides; no chance of slippage that way.
> 
> Just thoughts - Cheers - Jeff


I was thinking about the spot weld idea myself . I never thought to order the flange version . I will have to take another look in my garage and see what they look like again. 
Looking at your project, I think great minds think alike . To bad you didn’t live closer, as I think your one of those people I need to meet lol


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

Just a few more pics of the command and control center, test fitting mainly and some construction as well.














































Have a great weekend!!

Cheers - Jeff


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

As always, looks great, Jeff!

David


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

That almost looks too good to get sawdust on!!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Jeff I’m hoping you post a video of it as it’s raising and lowering 

Your motor almost looks like it’s a power window motor out of a vehicle. Either that or a windshield motor ?


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## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

This is Ground Control to Major Tom
You've really made the grade

~_gone to get popcorn for an upcoming event_


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Jeff I’m hoping you post a video of it as it’s raising and lowering
> 
> Your motor almost looks like it’s a power window motor out of a vehicle. Either that or a windshield motor ?


Once I getter up an running; will post a vid maybe, the motor is from a wheelchair, 3hp 24vdc gear reduction and turns about 113 rpm's.

Unfortunately the power supply only puts out about 17vdc, not sure if it will do the job with the weight total, thinking about 150 lb's maybe more. Ordered a 10 amp bridge rectifier and I think that's faulty so back to the drawing board on that mess.

Takes about 4 minutes to raise/lower and that is fine; in no hurry, nice and quite considering as well. What really surprised me is the tight tolerances necessary to make everything work smoothly. 

Thanks for stopping by!!

Cheers - Jeff


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## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

@Jay-D

~ Crickets settin in here ~ 

:|​


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## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

Paging @Jay-D


What happened to all those pics of the build?
and how did it turn out?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

UglySign said:


> Paging @Jay-D
> 
> 
> What happened to all those pics of the build?
> and how did it turn out?


Kind of disappointed that all the pics are gone. This was a really sweet build


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Pics were hosted on Jeff's site, www.driedhotpeppers.com, and that site is down. The domain is still owned by someone, though, but I can't see if it's Jeff. His last activity here was two years ago on 2/25/18. No idea what's going on with him, sorry. Yes, it was a sweet build!

David


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## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

difalkner said:


> Pics were hosted on Jeff's site, www.driedhotpeppers.com, and that site is down. The domain is still owned by someone, though, but I can't see if it's Jeff. His last activity here was two years ago on 2/25/18. No idea what's going on with him, sorry. Yes, it was a sweet build!
> 
> David


Yea, I dont know what made me think of it.
he had a nice build going on there. Ehh, never know if
maybe by chance he'll stop in again. Some interesting ideas
he came up with. Keep ya butt cheeks crossed, someday.


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

Hi Guy and Gals, Yes I am back and ready to try and finish the cnc build, When the project was shut down I had realized 2 very important things, 1 I like fishing better  and 2 there was a flaw in materials; that being the aluminum guild rails! There is no way IMO they will hold up, sure they roll nice now but given time the steel v groove bearings will eat; so I put things on the back burner as you can see in the first 2 pics, sad, very sad, too sad to talk about. lol 

Time to dig it out!

Mean while I built a couple fishing carts, EV for surf fishing but use them here is WI. in the summer, If you would like to check out that build Beach cart build most find this to be extremely interesting.

All in all; will have to replace the aluminum roller guild track with steel linear tracks and slides; ooooh that sounds like fun, along with some other modifications.

Sorry about the missing pics, yes I shut down the site hosting them, for the new lookers I am going to reload the pics. I will leave numbers above each so if you have any ? refer to the #.

Thanks for stopping by; this is more for entertainment then learning.


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

You may have noticed a guy named Wardecke1 replying, well that is me. forgot my password and conveniently a popup on the screen read " log in with google" so I did and it created a whole new account, didn't realize it till after a few posts.. lol Moving forward. Cheers


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Jay-D said:


> You may have noticed a guy named Wardecke1 replying,


Do you want the accounts merged? If so, which is primary (the one you want to keep)?


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

difalkner said:


> Do you want the accounts merged? If so, which is primary (the one you want to keep)?


Primary is Jay-D merge or delete wardecke1 is fine. Thanks!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome back Jay....


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Jay-D said:


> Primary is Jay-D merge or delete wardecke1 is fine. Thanks!


Accounts merged. CNC build looks good!


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

That is a very nice job, Jay-D. Congratulations!!


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## Jay-D (Oct 28, 2014)

Looking for some more parts and pieces to use and look what I found in the junk pile out back. Looking to maybe replace the gantry but not sure if this extruded aluminum will work, its extremely heavy duty. one 8' and one 10'. The thickness of the aluminum is at least 1/2" with out the t slots, these things are so heavy I need 2 men and small boy just dig them out. lol. Pull one end off to see what was inside, surprise!

Thoughts on use? or just take them to the scrap yard? 








































































Any thing you might think is salvageable ?  Cheers.


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