# expensive table tops



## meyster (Jan 19, 2010)

Why are some router table tops so incredibly expensive -- $500 to $1000? Are they worth it? I'm trying to decide what to buy/build for my good-for-life table router. I'm inclined to build the cabinet myself but wondering how much I should spend on the top.

Any thoughts?


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## 163481 (Jul 8, 2015)

My approach to a router table top was to use a Formica-covered sink cutout I acquired for very little money and laminate it to a piece of plywood I had laying around. I spread an even coat of PVA glue on both surfaces then clamped them together on the very flat top surface of my table saw. I added clamping cauls of dense wood to put even pressure on the entire surface of the workpiece and left it to "cook" for 24 hours.

I then set up guides for my router and routed out the opening for the phenolic router plate. After plowing out a dado with the table saw, an aluminum miter track was installed.

The result is very flat and even if it doesn't last for the rest of my life, I can make two or three more for less than I would have spent for a commercially-available piece.

But your situation could be different than mine.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

I get free sink cutouts from a local cabinet and countertop company. The owner says they just toss them in the dumpster since there is no further use for them. Right now I have about 5 of them sitting under the workbench, waiting to tell me what they want to be in their next life. 0


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

500 for a router table top??? what's it made of? Estonian Birch harvested under a full moon?

Making a top is fairly easy and cheap. There are lots of plans and advice out there for the searching. Probably the most daunting for newbies is cutting out the opening for the router plate. Templates and a router make easy work of that, too. Frankly, I think it's a rite of passage for wood workers.

I built mine from a 3/4" (18mm) baltic birch core and laminated a 1/4" hardboard layer on either side. Topped it off with formica and lots of poly on the bottom. Edged it with hardwood and chamfered it. Total cost - probably $30 though the only thing I bought specifically for it was the formica. It's rock solid.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

My Bosch 1181 has not failed me yet...prior to that it was 3/4 ply with a clamped down wooden fence...

Haven't found the Bosch letting me do anything I didn't before...except dust collection...

If I were to have it all, horizontal table and vertical bits for panels...

In my situation I could not need more...your needs may be different...table top builds are a-plenty...

Many threads and many designs...buy tools with that extra money...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Dan, one of the best table tops is among the simplest to make. 3/4" Baltic birch plywood with a HPL like Formica on both sides. This is how the Router Workshop table was constructed. You can make reference marks on it with pencil; a quick spray with window cleaner and a swipe with a rag and it's clean. You can spend more or less money and you will not find a table top that is superior to this. Wood glides across the Formica with ease.

Forum Greeter James Wade uses his clamped to a Workmate. Retired Moderator Deb has an Incra system set up on hers. Your router table must perform well; it doesn't need to devour all your floor space... it just has to do its job. Not sure if you will like it? Build the Economy table top from 3/4" phenolic impregnated Baltic birch plywood.


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

You don't even need an insert plate. My first table I routed a pocket in the back to fit the router base into. Screwed down through the top to hold it in place. Some routers are better for this than others.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Nick, why not build this simple dust collection fence? All you need is a 2 x 6"(or 2 1 x 8" glued together like I used), a 2-1/4" hole saw and a set of C clamps. It works very well and the cost is hard to beat.

I suggest you build two of these and cut 1/16" off the leading face on one of them. Now you will have a regular fence and a jointing fence.

"Keep it simple"


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Mike said:


> Nick, why not build this simple dust collection fence? All you need is a 2 x 6"(or 2 1 x 8" glued together like I used), a 2-1/4" hole saw and a set of C clamps. It works very well and the cost is hard to beat.
> 
> I suggest you build two of these and cut 1/16" off the leading face on one of them. Now you will have a regular fence and a jointing fence.
> 
> "Keep it simple"


Another way to handle the offset needed for jointing an edge is to glue a strip of HPL to the outfeed face, file a shallow bevel on the leading edge next to the cutout. My first fence had a strip of vertical grade laminate (0.030" thick) glued to the face - way easier than fooling with putting a shim behind the outfeed facing as I do now.

Tom


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## 163481 (Jul 8, 2015)

tomp913 said:


> way easier than fooling with putting a shim behind the outfeed facing as I do now.
> 
> Tom


That's what I was planning to do. How do you find this a problem?


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Mike said:


> Nick, why not build this simple dust collection fence? All you need is a 2 x 6"(or 2 1 x 8" glued together like I used), a 2-1/4" hole saw and a set of C clamps. It works very well and the cost is hard to beat.
> 
> I suggest you build two of these and cut 1/16" off the leading face on one of them. Now you will have a regular fence and a jointing fence.
> 
> "Keep it simple"


Yes, Mike...I've eyeballed that fence every time you've posted the picture. The 1181 has good dust collection and adjustable out fence but I like the simplicity of your fence. It seems it would draw sawdust better than the 1181 setup...

...and I like your idea of making two of them, one for joining...

Thanks...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Nick, in another thread Quillman suggested that 1/32" is enough. Trust Pat to hit the nail on the head. This is what most companies provide shims for.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

PhilBa said:


> 500 for a router table top??? what's it made of? Estonian Birch harvested under a full moon?
> 
> Making a top is fairly easy and cheap. There are lots of plans and advice out there for the searching. Probably the most daunting for newbies is cutting out the opening for the router plate. Templates and a router make easy work of that, too. Frankly, I think it's a rite of passage for wood workers.
> 
> I built mine from a 3/4" (18mm) baltic birch core and laminated a 1/4" hardboard layer on either side. Topped it off with formica and lots of poly on the bottom. Edged it with hardwood and chamfered it. Total cost - probably $30 though the only thing I bought specifically for it was the formica. It's rock solid.


Phil I always admire your router table when I see it


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Dan in my case I bought an Incra top . By the time I over pay for a 60"/60" piece of Baltic birch which is $89 locally , and then add in all the other pieces, I think it's about even . But the Incra table is dead flat and has the plate cut out and miter slot already done for me . I'm going to build a cabinet for it but as for the top I think I made the right decision


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

meyster2 said:


> Why are some router table tops so incredibly expensive -- $500 to $1000? Are they worth it? I'm trying to decide what to buy/build for my good-for-life table router. I'm inclined to build the cabinet myself but wondering how much I should spend on the top.
> 
> Any thoughts?


good for life? i dont think so.
Start basic, see how it works, then improve on it to your usage. theres no way youre going to know what you need till you start routing.
I'm a complete newbie to woodworking, less than a year all in. I'm already on my second table and third fence, and I'm now planning the next "improvement".

I now think of making the tools as part of the hobby.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Are the expensive tops worth it? No but a fool and his money are some party. Buy the insert, feather boards and the T tracks and make the rest.


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## IRestore (Mar 28, 2015)

I have a "Freud RTS5000 Stationary Router Table with Freud's SH-5 Micro-Adjusting Fence, 9-by-12 Aluminum Insert Plate and 16-Gauge Steel Stand" I have been very pleased with the micro adjustment but a little disappointed in the rubber that goes around the edges as it sticks up a bit and catches the wood. The stand wasn't as sturdy as I would have liked. I installed 2 shelves which has helped to make it rock solid and I added wheels for portability.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

meyster2 said:


> Why are some router table tops so incredibly expensive -- $500 to $1000? Are they worth it? I'm trying to decide what to buy/build for my good-for-life table router. I'm inclined to build the cabinet myself but wondering how much I should spend on the top.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Hi Dan. Welcome to our little corner of the 'net.

The "$500-1000" router tables and tops are one of the biggest problems with this hobby in my opinion. Are they good? Maybe. Do they work? Probably. Does a beginner need to pay out that kind of cash? Absolutely NOT!!

Most of us are the "other fellers" and not the "rockefellers".. If I had to spend that kind of money to get started in this hobby, I would have ran the other direction... 

As others have suggested, start with baby steps. Once you figure out what direction you want to go with your hobby, improve on what you have. Add the router lift, the micro adjustable fence, the T-track, the miter slot, etc etc later if you need them. 

I currently use the RouterWorkshop table, but started out with a cheap aluminum table marketed by Craftsman. The Craftsman table did a great job for edging, dadoes, and rabbet joints. So can a flat piece of plywood clamped to your workbench.


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## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

sunnybob said:


> good for life? i dont think so.
> Start basic, see how it works, then improve on it to your usage. theres no way youre going to know what you need till you start routing.
> I'm a complete newbie to woodworking, less than a year all in. I'm already on my second table and third fence, and I'm now planning the next "improvement".
> 
> I now think of making the tools as part of the hobby.


Bob, this is a very good point! Not everyone wants to make tools (I sure do) but I think the whole "gotta find the best and last xxx I'll ever buy" is actually counter productive. The reality is once you have a tool, you learn and grow in skill. At some point you realize that tool that met your needs starting out really isn't the best any more. I think it more luck that you would buy a "first and last" tool and hit it exactly right. 

This is why I try to start with a used tool. If it works exactly as I need great but more than likely it's just a stepping stone tool. The advantage of buying used is that you can usually sell it for about what you paid when you move up. Well, that assumes you don't pay too much and don't abuse it. Also, you can wait forever looking for the right used tool so "good enough" works in the mean time. I think of it as a tuition free tool school.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

sfchuck said:


> That's what I was planning to do. How do you find this a problem?


I bought a set of the shims sold by Rockler - I'd "treated" myself to a Rockler table and Bench-Dog lift a couple of years ago - and it's a PITA to get those flimsy shims behind the fence and on the bolts. My first router table - plywood with a tempered hardboard top and with the router, less base, sitting in a recess below the top, had a fence very similar to Mike's. I had a second fence with a piece of 1/32" thick laminate glued to the outfeed side and which worked very well. I used that until I had the opportunity to buy a 1950's era Walker-Turner joiner and never looked back from there. I guess if I was going to make a habit of using the router table for jointing, I should take the time to make a stiffer shim out of laminate - I still have some 1/32" thick offcuts lying around, but I'm thinking a piece of the material used for post-form tops which is , I believe, .020" thick would probably be better and still rigid enough to be easily installed behind the outfeed fence.

Tom


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I have had 3 different router tables over the last 15 years or so. The first one, which I only had a couple of years was a craftsman aluminum table that held a router only able to take 1/4" shank bits. I quickly upgraded to the Bosch 1617 router, and built my first table. That table got used for around 8+ years. I still have that table, but it gets used for holding project pieces by the table saw now. I built my third table that I am using now a little over a year ago. The reason for building a new table had nothing to do with the quality of the previous table. In fact it can still be used if I ever needed to setup a second table if I were doing a lot of panel cabinet doors. The reasons for the upgraded included a bigger table, a lift, a full cabinet underneath, a better constructed fence, and better dust collection. I expect the cabinet to last a lifetime. The table I can see at some point needing to replace it again. Both tops cost me well under $100 to make. (not counting the lift or insert plate, but an inexpensive insert plate can be easily found)

The construction of the two tops I made were two layers of MDF, edge banded with 3/4" thick hardwood. I put a layer of formica over the top, and then cut out the insert whole. I made sure the cabinet or stand that was support the table had good support for the table. I live in SW Ohio where we get humidity extremes, and neither table has warped or sagged.


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## bosham (May 3, 2011)

*Functional Router Table and its top*



meyster2 said:


> Why are some router table tops so incredibly expensive -- $500 to $1000? Are they worth it? I'm trying to decide what to buy/build for my good-for-life table router. I'm inclined to build the cabinet myself but wondering how much I should spend on the top.
> 
> Any thoughts?


This thread is interesting as it brings out the various stages and thoughts on the table tops but doesn't mention the types of Routers which in my opinion has a distinct influence on the matter. Securing the router is very important as is being able to change bits and make adjustments. 

I wanted to get a bigger Router and carefully, so I thought examined the market eventually settling on a Triton MOF001. To go with that I bought a 2nd hand Triton Router table which has a quick fix system to hold the router. The Router was a disappointment, the originals were fine but it seems and certainly was the case with me the 'modern ones' are not as robust. Also I found out, through use that the various innovations were OK but did you really need them?

After the second armature failed I looked at the 2nd Hand market and bought a made in Japan Hitachi M12V with very low hours on it. Brilliant choice, in a different league to the Triton. So I sold all the Triton gear and set about making a Router Table for the Hitachi. I looked around You Tube and formulated what I wanted to do. 

The nearly finished product has a lifting top which exposes the Router for adjustments and changing bits. This negates having a lift.

Having made an insert plate out of 5mm alloy a 2nd hand Veritas Router table plate complete with Router clamping system appeared on our Trade Me site for NZ $120 .... I snapped it up. There can't be many down here in New Zealand as shipping them down here must cost a pretty penny as it weighs 10Kg. But what a beauty system as I hope you can see from the photos which I will leave to do the explaining ...if I get them posted.

The horrible pink primer will eventually be painted 'Midnight Blue'

The Fence is made from an offcut alloy section powder painted which came from the builders bin along with the Formica chunk that the plate sits in. The dust collector at the rear of the fence is a simple plastic Rain Gutter fitting bolted onto the fence.

I did buy the switch which is most important and not to be skimped on.

Takes me around a minute to remove or replace the router and it proves easy to change bits and adjust the router without your fancy lifters or Triton systems.

As for the Veritas service and advice .... second to none, fabulous company even though I have a 2nd Hand unit of theirs.

David in Westport, New Zealand.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Nice work David . I was a little concerned about the pink until I read further into it lol


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

David, I would strongly encourage you to buy or make the missing safety starting pin. Here is one I made for my oversize Rockler Aluminum mounting plate.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

mgmine said:


> Are the expensive tops worth it? No but a fool and his money are some party. Buy the insert, feather boards and the T tracks and make the rest.


Just depends on what material you are talking about. Cast iron, phenolic, high pressure laminate tops, etc.

I think it is a personal preference and must say, bragging rights for others. I would rather damage my table top then destroy a bit and damage my table top so no cast iron for me. Phenolic is nice if you have the money for it. Great material. Rick and I did the math and the cost for the materials to duplicate what some companies offer is about break even, as long as you make no mistakes. Great for seasoned woodworkers, an expensive lesson for those not as capable.

Most agree that laminating plywood together for a top and covering it with melamine or some other type of laminate is a great way to go if you have the materials and the skills to make a flat top. A template is a great way to make sure the plate\lift fits the new cut out. Getting one from the plate\lift provider is good insurance.

Routing is one of my favorite activities in the shop so I tend to pour more resources into its endeavor. My father gave me a head start by leaving me many tools and I have just built on that foundation.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

David I have one of those tables also. I was just looking on LV's site because I wasn't sure what that pin was for anymore. I see the steel table is discontinued now. My Hitachi M12V came with a lineup pin very similar to it so I'm suspecting it didn't get passed along to you. Any straight rod or shaft with 1/4" or 1/2" diameter should work. (I'm assuming your router has the 1/2" collet and isn't metric and that you have the bushing supplied with the router for 1/4".) You could chuck a drill bit in those sizes and use the appropriate insert to center the router.


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## bosham (May 3, 2011)

*starting pin ...... er?*



Mike said:


> David, I would strongly encourage you to buy or make the missing safety starting pin. Here is one I made for my oversize Rockler Aluminum mounting plate.


Sorry Mike, I don't understand what this item does....could you enlighten me please?

David


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## bosham (May 3, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> David I have one of those tables also. I was just looking on LV's site because I wasn't sure what that pin was for anymore. I see the steel table is discontinued now. My Hitachi M12V came with a lineup pin very similar to it so I'm suspecting it didn't get passed along to you. Any straight rod or shaft with 1/4" or 1/2" diameter should work. (I'm assuming your router has the 1/2" collet and isn't metric and that you have the bushing supplied with the router for 1/4".) You could chuck a drill bit in those sizes and use the appropriate insert to center the router.


Charles,

Thanks for your interest. That annotated photo I did to send to Veritas before I figured out what the pin was for. Veritas came back with what you suggested and I have 'Marmalised' a 1/2" SS Bolt which fits the centering insert exactly. They also sent foc the centering insert (which also didn't come with the plate) and their manual on the table operation ... as I said I am extremely impressed with their service and the quality of the whole thing ...it is 'beaut'.

I don't use 1/4" bits anymore ..... one came loose not so long ago and I stopped the router before it started to try and fly. I doubt the bushing will see much if any use ever again.

David


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

David, when you are using your router table without a fence and have a bearing guided bit installed the safety starting pin provides a pivot point to place your wood against before starting the cut. This is very important because without one the wood can be grabbed by the bit and pulled away too fast for you to react. People have had severe injuries caused by this; some are mentioned in our safety section.

If you think this is a freak occurrence it is not. The other day while I was routing the plywood plates for mounting tools on* the bit grabbed the wood but my safety starting pin kept it under control for me. For best results the pin should be between you and the bit.

Some plates have threaded holes and others are simple through holes for mounting the pin. Both ways work equally well.

For small projects you can often use the fence as your pivot point; larger projects require the pin or the VacGuard.

* http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/71209-add-bench-2.html#post728194


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## bosham (May 3, 2011)

Mike said:


> David, when you are using your router table without a fence and have a bearing guided bit installed the safety starting pin provides a pivot point to place your wood against before starting the cut ................... Some plates have threaded holes and others are simple through holes for mounting the pin. Both ways work equally well ................


Hello Mike,

Thanks for your reply. I understand now what your pin is for. 

If you look at the last two photos of my post you will see that the Veritas Router table top comes with two such pins and is already drilled and threaded to take them ... one positioned to the left and one to the right of the Router bit insert. They are also conveniently drilled at the top so you can just tweak them tight with a small bar. You can have one or both in use depending on the job. As I said, the Veritas unit is quality and their manual is very helpful and descriptive on the use of the table and other routing tips ....and its in Queens English.

David


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

"...and its in Queens English."

People still use that? :jester:

I thought you were missing the safety starting pin. My bad.


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## bosham (May 3, 2011)

Mike said:


> "...and its in Queens English."
> 
> People still use that? :jester: Some of us try but you Americans never have >
> 
> I thought you were missing the safety starting pin. My bad.


You are forgiven ..... I do plenty of them....


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