# Possible to route a 45 degree slot?



## steambc (Jul 28, 2013)

New kid here. Looks like a great forum!

I need to cut a 3/16" 45 degree angled slot along the length of a 4" by 26" by 3/4 piece of oak. The slot is located approximately 1" in from the long edge and runs the length of that edge. Slot goes all the way from edge to edge, so can be done without a plunge.

I have a Dewalt trim router with plunge base, and also a larger, more powerful Ryobi plunge router. The only routing table I own is the Rockler portable table (I live in an apt. where space is limited).

Is there a way I can route that slot, perhaps by making some kind of jig? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Looks easy enough on the router table.
Cutters a dime/dozen.
Might use a holder for such a small piece.
Feed R - L


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

steambc said:


> New kid here. Looks like a great forum!
> 
> I need to cut a 3/16" 45 degree angled slot along the length of a 4" by 26" by 3/4 piece of oak. The slot is located approximately 1" in from the long edge and runs the length of that edge. Slot goes all the way from edge to edge, so can be done without a plunge.
> 
> ...


Not sure with what you have. Is that a true 4" or a 1x4 (3½")? Which way is it angled? By "long edge" is that the edge furthest from the groove? (not sure I asked that right)
I wouldn't have much trouble with it as my Colt came with a fixed angled base but a plunge router would have to be jigged somehow and at that angle, I'm afraid you will run out of plunge depth. If you are angling away from the router and 1" from the edge of the board, you will need about 3/4" + the depth of the groove from the base of the router. At 3" over you will need about 2" plus the depth of the groove. 
Hope you can figure out the drawing. :blink:


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

QUOTE=Quillman;345423]Looks easy enough on the router table.
Cutters a dime/dozen.
Might use a holder for such a small piece.
Feed R - L[/QUOTE]

Having trouble visualizing that on a table, unless a couple of 45° blocks were taped to the fence. [


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

John may be right about not having enough length to do it. 3/16 straight bits aren't very long as a rule. If you are going from end to end why not use the table saw - if you have one. You didn't fill out your profile so we have no way of knowing. By the way welcome to the forum.


----------



## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Steambc
I am confused are wanting a slot or a groove at 45 degree angle if groove how deep is it


----------



## steamingbill (Jan 13, 2013)

How about .....

1. Use inclined thin blade on table saw

2. If saw blade doesnt incline make a jig and incline the piece

3. Use handheld ordinary circular saw set at 45 degrees with a straight edge to guide it 

Its the end result you want ie a slot in apiece of wood - does it matter how its done ?

Regards

Bill


----------



## steambc (Jul 28, 2013)

Thanks for the tips guys. Here's a picture of what I'm replicating. This pic is of course the old piece that I'm trying to replicate. I don't have my own table saw so I would have to borrow one if I were to use that. I've already got the pieces cut and edge-routed, and now I just need to cut that slot (or is the right term, "groove"?).

I do have two circular saws, one cordless and one corded, and was thinking I should avoid using that as I might not get the accuracy I need. I do have clamping straight-edges from Rockler so it is feasible to do.

I had a table saw in this apartment before but in my naiveté decided to replace it with a circular saw for space reasons. I know........

I'll try to fill in my profile a bit later as suggested.


----------



## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

I would call that a groove and would cut it on table saw


----------



## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Agree with S.Pro.
But leave the work long, make the cut, then harvest what you need.
Don't pull back any stubs.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

steambc said:


> Thanks for the tips guys. Here's a picture of what I'm replicating. This pic is of course the old piece that I'm trying to replicate. I don't have my own table saw so I would have to borrow one if I were to use that. I've already got the pieces cut and edge-routed, and now I just need to cut that slot (or is the right term, "groove"?).
> 
> I do have two circular saws, one cordless and one corded, and was thinking I should avoid using that as I might not get the accuracy I need. I do have clamping straight-edges from Rockler so it is feasible to do.
> 
> ...


Ahhh, picture is truly worth a 1000 words.
Make a guide block about 20 or so inches long like the one in the picture. Dimensions aren't particularly important. I just needs to be wide enough that the workpiece and fence don't interfere. I think a hunk of 2x4 would work fine. Attach it to your fence, double face carpet tape would likely work or if your fence has holes for a subfence(s) you could use those to screw it in place. Once attached to the fence, use the piece you are trying to duplicate to set your fence and bit height.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

jschaben said:


> Ahhh, picture is truly worth a 1000 words.
> Make a guide block about 20 or so inches long like the one in the picture. Dimensions aren't particularly important. I just needs to be wide enough that the workpiece and fence don't interfere. I think a hunk of 2x4 would work fine. Attach it to your fence, double face carpet tape would likely work or if your fence has holes for a subfence(s) you could use those to screw it in place. Once attached to the fence, use the piece you are trying to duplicate to set your fence and bit height.


work piece will need to ride against the fence and a feather boards to hold down the work piece vertically and horizontally to the cutter..


----------



## steambc (Jul 28, 2013)

Awesome... thanks to all of you, especially John for doing up the drawings. You guys gave me a lot to think about.

I just came into some extra money today so I'm going to buy a compact jobsite table saw and keep it in my van. This will of course be a better choice for making my grooves.

I really appreciate all your guys time and effort. I've got a lot to learn and will be reading this site voraciously.

Brian


----------

