# Freehand Sign routing



## 2ndgrjm (May 21, 2009)

Hello all,

I'd like to learn how to make simple freehand routed wooden signs.
I have alot of trouble with the router having its own design, I would like to know what tips and tricks, bits selection, wood selection and any other information is available. No I don't plan to go to flee markets or county fairs to make signs, I would just like to be accurate enough to make a sign when asked by a friend. I do not charge for my work that way if it turns into crap
(which sometimes happens) I won't be paying anybody back.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide
Jim


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Hi Jim and welcome! I would suggest doing a search on the forum for free hand routing and sign making. You will probably find a lot of answers to your questions that way. But I am sure others will be along to point you in the right direction as well.

Deb


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

A good way to elicit lots of answers is to fill in your public profile but as a starting point click on "View harrysin's Gallery" at the left and look around page 124, the original photo shoot seems to have gone walk-about!


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## ldykeman (Mar 14, 2009)

I have made a number of freehand signs with a router. I made them out of pine boards. I lay out the letters, usually in an old western letter style, and rout everything except the letters; i.e. I leave the letters raised and rout the background. I use a 1/4" straight bit, usually only 1/8" deep, or whatever I think looks best by eye. This small bit is easier to control while following the letter outlines. I can switch to a larger bit to take away larger areas of the background (where I am not following a line, just hogging out wood).
Larry
Here's an example:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

ldykeman said:


> I have made a number of freehand signs with a router. I made them out of pine boards. I lay out the letters, usually in an old western letter style, and rout everything except the letters; i.e. I leave the letters raised and rout the background. I use a 1/4" straight bit, usually only 1/8" deep, or whatever I think looks best by eye. This small bit is easier to control while following the letter outlines. I can switch to a larger bit to take away larger areas of the background (where I am not following a line, just hogging out wood).
> Larry
> Here's an example:


Hi Larry,
Great sign for freehand work.
How do you support the router? skis or use spacer plates next to the workpiece?

James


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## ldykeman (Mar 14, 2009)

Thanks. I just rest the router directly on the sign and hang on tightly. There always seems to be enough raised (unrouted) wood to keep it level and not gouging the background.


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## 2ndgrjm (May 21, 2009)

Larry, Thank you for this info, I've been trying a "V" bit with a very small router and as I said before, having alot of trouble following a line. I will switch to a 1/4" straight bit set shallow and see how it goes. I've been using cedar I'll try redwood as well as pine and see which routs easier. Thank you all for your input. Please keep posting tips and tricks as they are very helpful to me.
Jim


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

ldykeman said:


> I have made a number of freehand signs with a router. I made them out of pine boards. I lay out the letters, usually in an old western letter style, and rout everything except the letters; i.e. I leave the letters raised and rout the background. I use a 1/4" straight bit, usually only 1/8" deep, or whatever I think looks best by eye. This small bit is easier to control while following the letter outlines. I can switch to a larger bit to take away larger areas of the background (where I am not following a line, just hogging out wood).
> Larry
> Here's an example:


Larry,

A question about your letters. Where do you get the templates? I have been looking for old western letter sets to draw the outlines. Thanks, great sign..

George


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## ldykeman (Mar 14, 2009)

Thanks George.
I don't have templates. I lay the letters out by hand with a straightedge and by eye. I have a very old motheaten book full of different fonts. It is entitled "20th Edition Speedball Textbook for Pen and Brush Lettering". It was published by the Speedball Co. that made pens, brushes, inks, and accessories for lettering and calligraphy. I refer to the book and then do my best to make my letters look like what is in the book.
Larry


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Some use a wide base resting on the sign, others use skis. It's all personal preference.
I've used the computer to draw the sign up, print it, then use an engraver to transfer it to the sign wood. That's how I did these.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I think that this may be the link to the photo shoot that I refered to.

http://www.routerforums.com/portable-routing/6225-making-my-first-free-hand-sign.html#post58497


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

AxlMyk said:


> Some use a wide base resting on the sign, others use skis. It's all personal preference.
> I've used the computer to draw the sign up, print it, then use an engraver to transfer it to the sign wood. That's how I did these.


Mike,
I'm artistically challenged to say the least. What computer program was used?
I was thinking about buying a set of old western letters from the local artsie-fartsie store and tracing them to the wood for further gouging..

Thanks
George


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

ldykeman said:


> Thanks George.
> I don't have templates. I lay the letters out by hand with a straightedge and by eye. I have a very old motheaten book full of different fonts. It is entitled "20th Edition Speedball Textbook for Pen and Brush Lettering". It was published by the Speedball Co. that made pens, brushes, inks, and accessories for lettering and calligraphy. I refer to the book and then do my best to make my letters look like what is in the book.
> Larry


Thanks Larry,
I very much doubt I could find a copy of the book but I think I have a plan to draw the letters to the wood and then RST...(RST= Rip, Snatch and Tear). I will try on the dining room table and see how long anyone notices.

Regards,
George


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