# Wiring a switch for a router table



## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

I would like to wire an off-on switch for a router table I am making. I have never done this before. Hard to do? When I use wire nuts to fasten two wires, is it ok to use electricians tape at the bottom of the wire nut just for extra protection?

Thanks

KR


----------



## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

I forgot. Size of wire? I would like it to be heavy duty.

KR


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi KR

Elec.tape will break down in time..





Kelly Rittgers said:


> I would like to wire an off-on switch for a router table I am making. I have never done this before. Hard to do? When I use wire nuts to fasten two wires, is it ok to use electricians tape at the bottom of the wire nut just for extra protection?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> KR


----------



## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

are these bell connectors available at hardware stores. I did a Google and didn't find any.


----------



## Tempest (Jan 7, 2011)

I'm not exactly sure how you are wiring the switch, but I don't think you should need any wire nuts.

Get an extension cord and cut the female end off (or buy a wire already prepped for this) and then attach the wires to the switch. Then run wires from the switch to the outlet. You could even use a piece of the extension cord you used for the incoming power.

No need for wire nuts at the fixtures as they have their own attachment devices.

14/3 will be plenty for a router (15 amp capacity), and this is a common size for an extension cord. There is a good chance the cord on your router is 16/2.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Kelly Rittgers said:


> are these bell connectors available at hardware stores. I did a Google and didn't find any.


Hi Kelly - just use a wire connector nut. Just make sure the wires are twisted tightly together for about 3 turns of bare copper, trim off any "ears" and put the nut on. You can tape over the nut if you are concerned about it coming off, it won't but some have that concern. 12 awg is the correct wire size.


----------



## Tempest (Jan 7, 2011)

12 AWG is for a 20 amp circuit. 14 AWG is for a 15 amp circuit.

I know of no router that will pull 20 amps.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi KR

Yes from ACE and many other outlets.very quick and safe..











Kelly Rittgers said:


> are these bell connectors available at hardware stores. I did a Google and didn't find any.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

I have 3 that will pull 20 amps.



=======



Tempest said:


> 12 AWG is for a 20 amp circuit. 14 AWG is for a 15 amp circuit.
> 
> I know of no router that will pull 20 amps.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Tempest said:


> 12 AWG is for a 20 amp circuit. 14 AWG is for a 15 amp circuit.


agreed



> I know of no router that will pull 20 amps.


I believe the big Festool, not that it's anywhere near my budget, is rated at 18. Furthermore, most router will pull more than rated amps for at least a brief period until they start smoking. Wood Magazine, October 2010, tested a Ridgid 11 amp rated machine that pulled "12 to 19 amps" under load testing. Also, if you have a 20 amp switch, it just makes sense to me to run 20 amp wires to it.


----------



## Tempest (Jan 7, 2011)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> I have 3 ( now 4 with the PC7538 tank) that will pull 20 amps.


What AWG cord do these routers come with?

That router is rated for 15 amps:
Delta Machinery|Porter-Cable

ANY router will pull more than it's rating under heavy load...but not for long. This is true for just about any electronic device. If one is pushing their router to 20 amps on a regular basis, they need a shaper.

This is the same issue that got Craftsman and other companies in trouble for "peak horsepower" advertising.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tempest

To me It's like my 3/4 ton Ford pickup I know I will ask it to do more than what it's rated to do by Ford, that's why I have over size tires and over load springs on it,,,so why not over build from the get go for the times I may ask it to do more.

Just like using over size wire can't hurt and it's not the time to go cheap. 

=====



Tempest said:


> What AWG cord do these routers come with?
> 
> That router is rated for 15 amps:
> Delta Machinery|Porter-Cable
> ...


----------



## Mikeon (May 18, 2010)

*wiring a router table*

while you're at it, you might want to consider adding a couple more outlets. I installed one outlet, switched, for my shop vac so it goes on when I turn the router on and another, unswitched, for the light that's attached to the router table, in addition to an outlet for the router. None of this is very expensive or difficult. All you need is an electrical box, one double outlet, and one outlet with switch. There is no need for wire nuts or other connectors. All the wires attached to the terminals on the outlets.


----------



## jimjam25 (Feb 10, 2011)

the maximum current will be on the data plate on your routerthis shoul tell you the size of cable ,in the UK all 220 volt routers come with our standard 13amp fused plug which is moulded on to the wire 

jimjam25


----------



## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Kelly:

I am assuming you're wiring your Triton 2-1/4 HP router.

Bob's suggestion of 12 AWG wire is a good one. Wiring connections are best not stressed for long beyond 80 percent of their ratings. 

For 14 AWG, 80 percent of 15 Amps is 12 Amps. If you push the 2-1/4 HP router hard a lot, the 14 AWG might get a tad warm. Over time, this can lead to insulation breakdown. If the wire is in contact with wood, the wood can dry out, lowering its ignition temperature. The potential for fire exists.

For 12 AWG, 80 percent of 20 Amps is 16 Amps, which exceeds the peak rating of your router. You would be hard-pressed to get the 12 AWG wire more than slightly warm. 

John's description (in post of 11:59 today) of using wiring connectors is well put. 

One can avoid using wiring connectors by running a continuous run of cable from the plug, through the switch box, to the outlet box. At the switch box, leave enough wiring looped out of the front of the box. Remove the outer insulation within the box. Loop the ground wire around the grounding screw. Cut, strip and wire the black wire to the switch contacts. Push the ground and neutral wires to the back of the box and insert the switch into the box. This way, neither the ground nor the neutral wire needs a wiring connector. 

Cassandra


----------



## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Oh, by the way, if the run of wire is less than 10 ft (3 m), 14 AWG would be suitable.

On my router table (with 2-1/4 HP router), I used a 12 AWG flexible cable with plug, to run from the wall receptacle to the switch box. Then ran 14 AWG from the switch box to the router receptacle box -- a distance of a few inches.) 

(Being an electrical engineer, I have no aversion to using Marr connectors.)

Cassandra


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

jimjam25 said:


> the maximum current will be on the data plate on your routerthis shoul tell you the size of cable ,in the UK all 220 volt routers come with our standard 13amp fused plug which is moulded on to the wire
> 
> jimjam25


G'day Jim

Welcome to the router forum


----------



## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

> Bob's suggestion of 12 AWG wire is a good one. Wiring connections are best not stressed for long beyond 80 percent of their ratings.


So do you routinely change all the power cords on your 15 A routers?


----------



## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

CR.. UL rated devices are approved as an assembly, with the cord. The combination is safe. 

Technically the Ampacity of the wire includes not only than the gauge of the copper but also the temperature rating of the insulation on the wire but the details of this are more information than most people care about. Therefore, when people ask about wire size most give them the simple, conservative answer. 

Additionally, the specifications governing appliance cord (i.e. router cord) is not as strict as in-wall wiring cable. This occurs in part to minimize in-wall home fires.

As I recently detailed in another post, the incremental cost of installing 12ga wire over 14ga wire is typically only a few $$$. As BJ says, its not a good place to push your luck to save a nickel.


----------



## walowan (Jan 21, 2011)

Since the OP is in the USA he is using a 115volt router, #12 wire would be my choice.


----------



## Tempest (Jan 7, 2011)

crquack said:


> So do you routinely change all the power cords on your 15 A routers?


+1



> the incremental cost of installing 12ga wire over 14ga wire is typically only a few $$$.


Sure. If he is to go out and buy a role of wire, buy the 12ga. But ALL of this talk isn't taking into account his setup. If he's going from one side of a box to another, 14 vs. 12 isn't going to matter a hill of beans, nor does he need to go out and buy 3 roles of wire (red, black, green) to wire the thing up. Cutting out a length of extension cord and preping the wires will work just fine. (Kelly, you can buy 12 or 14 AWG extension cords.)

If he's got his switch on the other side of the shop and is making raised panels all day, then wire gauge comes more into play.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

No need to buy a roll of wire. 
======



Tempest said:


> +1
> 
> 
> Sure. If he is to go out and buy a role of wire, buy the 12ga. But ALL of this talk isn't taking into account his setup. If he's going from one side of a box to another, 14 vs. 12 isn't going to matter a hill of beans, nor does he need to go out and buy 3 roles of wire (red, black, green) to wire the thing up. Cutting out a length of extension cord and preping the wires will work just fine. (Kelly, you can buy 12 or 14 AWG extension cords.)
> ...


----------



## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

Kelly Rittgers said:


> I forgot. Size of wire? I would like it to be heavy duty.
> 
> KR


Bottom line is 12 guage wire if you want heavy duty.

Al


----------



## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Kelly:

Concerning your question on the wire size, a few questions need answering before a good answer can be given.

1. What is the HP rating of the load?

2. Does the router have a soft-start?

3. Will the wiring supply only the router or will it also supply power to the dust collector?

4. What is the length of wire from the supply point (wall receptacle or fuse panel) to the switch?

5. What is the length of wire from the switch to the load (router or router-and-dust-collector)?

6. How hard, on average, do you push the router? "Roll up the sleeves and push" or "just nudge it along"?

By various electrical codes, voltage drop needs to be considered. If the total length from supply point to the load is less than 50 ft (15 m), then one can usually dispense with the voltage drop calculations. The standard amperage ratings for cables are good for runs of less than 50 ft. 

However, if one is running more than 10 ft (3 m) with a heavy load, then it is prudent to upsize one gauge, just to reduce the voltage dip when the heavy load starts. Code doesn't require it, but it's just good practice. 

Now one would naturally ask whether to replace the manufacturer's cord, if one upsizes the other wiring. The answer is no. Voltage drop is cumulative. Reducing the voltage drop on the run from the supply point to the receptacle that supplies the load means that the load would not see as much voltage drop at the actual load (e.g. router motor.)

For heavy loads with a soft-start, the voltage drop at start-up (“inrush”) is naturally greatly reduced. A soft-start limits torque during the ramp up to speed. Reduced torque leads to reduced power demand, which leads to reduced current (amperage), which leads to less voltage drop, which leads to more voltage at the load. This reduced voltage drop means that the load has an easier time starting, since its supply voltage during start-up is nearer to its running voltage requirement. 

Cassandra


----------



## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Concerning your question on the wire size, a few questions need answering before a good answer can be given.

1. What is the HP rating of the load?

3.25 hp.

2. Does the router have a soft-start?

3. Will the wiring supply only the router or will it also supply power to the dust collector?

not now but would like to keep that open

4. What is the length of wire from the supply point (wall receptacle or fuse panel) to the switch?

I don't know. 15 feet maybe

5. What is the length of wire from the switch to the load (router or router-and-dust-collector)?

6. How hard, on average, do you push the router? "Roll up the sleeves and push" or "just nudge it along"?

It would be in a table.

By various electrical codes, voltage drop needs to be considered. If the total length from supply point to the load is less than 50 ft (15 m), then one can usually dispense with the voltage drop calculations. The standard amperage ratings for cables are good for runs of less than 50 ft.

However, if one is running more than 10 ft (3 m) with a heavy load, then it is prudent to upsize one gauge, just to reduce the voltage dip when the heavy load starts. Code doesn't require it, but it's just good practice.

Now one would naturally ask whether to replace the manufacturer's cord, if one upsizes the other wiring. The answer is no. Voltage drop is cumulative. Reducing the voltage drop on the run from the supply point to the receptacle that supplies the load means that the load would not see as much voltage drop at the actual load (e.g. router motor.)

For heavy loads with a soft-start, the voltage drop at start-up (“inrush”) is naturally greatly reduced. A soft-start limits torque during the ramp up to speed. Reduced torque leads to reduced power demand, which leads to reduced current (amperage), which leads to less voltage drop, which leads to more voltage at the load. This reduced voltage drop means that the load has an easier time starting, since its supply voltage during start-up is nearer to its running voltage requirement.

Cassandra

Thanks Cassandra


----------



## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Nice, thorough response, Cassandra.


----------



## Tempest (Jan 7, 2011)

> For heavy loads with a soft-start, the voltage drop at start-up (“inrush”) is naturally greatly reduced. A soft-start limits torque during the ramp up to speed. Reduced torque leads to reduced power demand, which leads to reduced current (amperage), which leads to less voltage drop, which leads to more voltage at the load. This reduced voltage drop means that the load has an easier time starting, since its supply voltage during start-up is nearer to its running voltage requirement.


Unless someone is doing something dangerous, like starting the router in contact with the material, there is no load, other than to move the mass of the spindle (+ any air drag)...soft start or not. Spindles are quite light relative to the power they can produce.

This is very different from a dust collector or compressor which is under full load, directly from the start.


----------

