# Cleaning grease off new table



## jbcasper4 (Apr 27, 2010)

Hi all,

I just recieved a new Bench Dog router table extension for my table saw. I'm curious to know what process others are using to clean the shipping grease from new cast-iron tools. Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks,

JC


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Simple Green or kerosene will work just fine in most cases. Simple Green smells better though :blink:


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

you might also try some wd 40


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi JC

I would not recommend any product that is petroleum base I would suggest Grease Lightning that you can get from any auto store or supermarket store in a spray bottle made just for that job.. 


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

jbcasper4 said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I just recieved a new Bench Dog router table extension for my table saw. I'm curious to know what process others are using to clean the shipping grease from new cast-iron tools. Any feedback is appreciated.
> 
> ...


I think I would be inclined to go with automotive brake cleaner. Spray on, wipe off. No residue.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

jschaben said:


> I think I would be inclined to go with automotive brake cleaner. Spray on, wipe off. No residue.


+1!! I use brake cleaner more than anything, it evaporates quickly so, no lingering fumes. There are many "degreasers" on the market, even "oven cleaners" will do the trick.


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## jbcasper4 (Apr 27, 2010)

Hi all,

Thanks for the advice. I went with Simple Green (my wife was going to the grocery store anyway  ), rubbeb some WD-40 in and then topped with wax.

FWIT - I also found this on the web:

"Dave's dirty dozen"


1) Scrape as much of the sludge as you can off with cardboard from the shipping container or a plastic scraper.
2) Use Simple Green right out of the container and tons of paper towels to get the rest off.
3) Wash off the Simple Green with more paper towels and clear water. Dry off with even more paper towels.
4) Spray the top down liberally with WD40. The WD in WD40 stands for Water Displacing, by the way.
5) Take a finishing sander, like a Porter-Cable 330, and put it on a ScotchBrite green pad. Random Orbital will work, but makes a hell of a mess.
6) Sand the top evenly until you feel like you've "massaged" the WD40 in very well. This also will knock some sharp spots off your top, a good thing.
7) Take even more paper towels, and wipe the top until dry. It will feel slightly oily.
8) Using a quality furniture paste wax (Johnson's, Minwax, Butcher's, whatever is available in your area), wax the top thoroughly and allow to dry.
9) Wipe off the bulk of the excess wax with paper towels.
10) Wax it again.
11) Buff well with paper towels.
12) Last step. Take a piece of wood with straight edges, and rub the surface of the saw in the direction of cut with the wood, as though you were cross-cutting it. 
It's a damn sight more steps than "wash off with kerosene", which is what all the manuals say. But, it leaves a top that is seriously ready for work, and won't need to be screwed with every couple months. I rewax my tops every year or two, and they ain't rusty...


Dave Arbuckle
[email protected]

Many thanks to Bri G at WoodNet, who had the presence of mind to save this, when I didn't ;-) 

JC


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