# Dovetails In Plywood



## Rolf Maxa (Feb 8, 2005)

I could not find any decision on making dovetail joins on ¾” birch plywood in the forum. I’m building a train table with drawers for my grandson, and wanted to make it kid friendly. I used my dovetail jig on the first drawer, and I got lots of tear out. Is there a special bit that would reduce the tear out on plywood or should I reduce the speed? I would appreciate any help I could get. I don’t use plywood for many of my projects


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## Router is still my name (May 3, 2006)

Hi rmaxa,
Making dovetail joints in plywood is more prone to tear outs than solid woods.
There are few things you can do to reduce or eliminate the TO’s. Use a sharp/new DC spiral bit. And also use a front and back backing board. If you don’t have a DC spiral bit and are using straight bit ( must be sharp), you have to use a front and back backing board for sure. Depending on you dovetail jig set up. Some jigs you only have to use one board in front for tear outs. The speed of the bit should be set to the size of the router bit. If it’s ½ inch bit or smaller then use a max speed.


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## Rolf Maxa (Feb 8, 2005)

Thanks for you help! I have been using a 1/2" dovetail bit. I should try using a spiral bit.
Thanks again for your help.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi RMaxa

If you are using a standard dovetail jig you will need to used a dovetail bit 

You can't get away without using it , On some jigs you can use a straight bit on one side but you must use a dovetail on the other side.

Give this a try, it works for me, take some double sided carpet tape and stick on some 1/8" or 1/4" MDF stock on both sides of the plywood, it only needs to be as wide as the dovetails or just a bit longer, then clamp it in the jig and put in the dovetails, you will still get just a little rip out but the MDF will at as a chip breaker and help hold the plywood from pulling out.
NOTE**** don't forget to add a 1/8" or 1/4" to your setting on the jig to off set the MDF stock.
Note**** if you are using blind dovetails you only need the MDF on one side (inside of the box cut) if you are making the side(s) and the front/back at the same time in the jig) this way you don't need to change your jig setting but the MDF must be the same size as "wide) as the box/drawer , but go slow on the ends and made very small cuts, out side 1st then move in.
You will also need to drop the bit down by 1/8" or 1/4" so the joint will fit right.

Hope this helps 

Bj


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## Router is still my name (May 3, 2006)

You can use the spiral on the tail side as Bj said.


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## Rolf Maxa (Feb 8, 2005)

Thanks to both your answers.
BJ, I'm making a blind dovetail, I'll give your solution a try. Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

You're Welcome for my small part RMaxa

Please post a snapshot after you give it a try, I'm sure the other members would like to see how it came out for you 

Bj


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## donald perham (Nov 30, 2010)

*DC spiral bit*



Router is still my name said:


> Hi rmaxa,
> Making dovetail joints in plywood is more prone to tear outs than solid woods.
> There are few things you can do to reduce or eliminate the TO’s. Use a sharp/new DC spiral bit. And also use a front and back backing board. If you don’t have a DC spiral bit and are using straight bit ( must be sharp), you have to use a front and back backing board for sure. Depending on you dovetail jig set up. Some jigs you only have to use one board in front for tear outs. The speed of the bit should be set to the size of the router bit. If it’s ½ inch bit or smaller then use a max speed.


Hi,

I am having trouble with TO's and I am using Baltic Birch Plywood, backer board and max speed where can I get the DC spiral bits from.

Don:help::help:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

MLCS solid carbide router bits

==



donald perham said:


> Hi,
> 
> I am having trouble with TO's and I am using Baltic Birch Plywood, backer board and max speed where can I get the DC spiral bits from.
> 
> Don:help::help:


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