# Dust Collector Problem



## rrrun (Jun 17, 2014)

I've got a Craftsman 1-1/2 hp Dust Collector, model # 152.213370. My problem is that the on-board circuit breaker pops off every time I turn on the unit.

I tried starting it with none of the hoses connected, so there was no pressure on the motor for the draw (?) - no change.

I replaced that on-board 15amp circuit breaker - no change.

I inspected the wiring in the junction box - no obvious problems.

The unit began to not turn on easily a while ago, but I could get it running after a reset or two. Now, it just won't cycle up before the circuit breaker gives way.

The unit is not new by any measure, but age has no impact on performance in my home. So, age isn't it. However, I find Sears isn't selling replacement parts for it. Perhaps there's a clue there....

Any electrical geniuses out there able to keep me from spending money I don't have to replace this unit?


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

This reminds me of an issue we had last summer in our headend . One air conditioning unit kept on tripping the breaker intermittently and they couldn't narrow down the problem till the motor finally blew .
Turns out the electric motor was the cause so your story has me wondering if it's the same thing


Your best option would be to measure the current draw with an amp clamp


----------



## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

Motors draw alot of current on start up. Some fuses have time delay for this reason. If you replaced the breaker, you need to clamp the motor on start up and running, if you can get it to run. The breaker is probably tripping, because it is drawing high amps.

I'd check that everything turns and spins freely. Nothing wedged. Could be bad bearings.

Age does effect performance, despite what you may want.


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

I assume it was running fine prior to this. It could be a number of things but probably the motor. If no obstructions and it spins freely then check the starter cap.


----------



## 64 ford (Apr 21, 2013)

Craftsman -cut your losses now and buy a quality collector that will have service and parts available into the future. Yours is yet another example of what happens when someone buys tools of questionable quality thinking ,I won't use it much, it's plenty good. 
Dennis


----------



## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I am not an expert on electric motors, but my guess is that you have a bad starting capacitor on your motor.


----------



## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

If you replaced the breaker with the proper breaker, then it is either a bad motor or starting capacitor if it has one. If it is the motor then it is time for a new unit.


----------



## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

PhilBa said:


> I assume it was running fine prior to this. It could be a number of things but probably the motor. If no obstructions and it spins freely then check the starter cap.


Everything runs fine, before it fails. It started tripping out, and then it got more frequent.

Does not have to be the motor, could be bearing, or fan binding.


----------



## PhilBa (Sep 25, 2014)

Zerk said:


> Everything runs fine, before it fails. It started tripping out, and then it got more frequent.
> 
> Does not have to be the motor, could be bearing, or fan binding.


yup, that why I said "If no obstructions and it spins freely then check the starter cap."


----------



## BIG OLD TIM (May 13, 2014)

Henry: I am surprised the motor has not burned up by now. The fires thing that hit my mind was the motor connections are wrong for the input current. I went to the Sears Parts Direct site and entered the model number you provided and LO AND BEHOLD! the first thing I find is that this model is rated for dual voltage. That means the motor can be wired for 120 v or 240 v. With the slow start up and the breaker tripping, it screams low voltage! Low voltage means high amperage. Chances are that this unit came to you without a cord end or the person that sold it to you had a 120 volt outlet hooked up to 240 volts. I pity him if that's the case as he is going to burn up every thing he plugs in there. Open the wiring box on the motor and look to see if there is 4 wires coming from the motor and two coming in from the cord. May be three wires coming in and one will be the green or ground and should be connected to the motor frame. The wiring diagram is self explanatory as ling as the wires are still marked with the 1.2.3.4. markers from the factory. There appears to be no capacitor for this setup, although if there is then you need to take the motor to a motor shop and have them test the motor and mark the wires for you for 120 volt operation. Do not run this motor until you check the wiring! wrong voltage will burn it up in about 10 seconds or so, depending on the quality of the motor. 
And don't let those fellas turn you off to Craftsman tools. It is pretty much true that you get what you pay for, but some of the "TOP" High Dollar ones, you are paying for nothing but the name. Some manufacturers do stand behind their warranties better than others. Sears brags about their lifetime warranty and truth be known its ONLY on hand tools that fall in a narrow group. Not power tools, not precision tools etc. etc. etc. so buyer beware. 
Tim


----------



## Zerk (Jun 24, 2014)

It was working, so I doubt it was wired wrong.


----------



## RMIGHTY1 (Nov 5, 2014)

Short in switch developed? By-pass switch and see what happens.


----------



## jdonhowe (Sep 12, 2009)

> I tried starting it with none of the hoses connected, so there was no pressure on the motor for the draw (?) - no change.


I know it sounds counterintuitive, but by removing all the hoses, you are actually increasing the risk of burning out your motor. There's a direct correlation between amps drawn by a DC and air flow (CFM). When you remove resistance to air flow (hoses, etc.), you're making it easier for the motor to move air (perform work), and amps will increase. 

That's why some manufacturers put restrictor plates in their DCs- to prevent too free a flow of air and possible burnout. The best way to lower amps is to seal off the DC inlet port completely. It might be interesting to see if the circuit breaker trips if the DC is closed.

One other thought- I have a HF air compressor (with a motor listed as 14 amps) that starts and runs fine on some 15 amp circuits in my house, but on others it frequently trips the built in breaker (but never the panel breaker). Also, the only extension cord I can use without tripping the internal breaker is one I made with 12 gauge Romex. I suspect that the outlets where it trips are on runs farther from the panel, and may have just enough additional resistance to prevent good compressor start up. Even though it sounds like the DC is 15 amp, have you tried it on a 20 amp circuit, or a different 15 amp circuit?


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If the unit ran fine and gradually started giving more and more trouble, with nothing else changing, then the first most likely problem is the bearings and Sears is famous for using dirt cheap bearings. If that's not it then I would have the motor checked out.


----------



## rrrun (Jun 17, 2014)

I've retired the Sears unit.

It was wired for 120v when I bought it. The unit does have a starting capacitor, but I never checked that out before deciding that an 11 year run was all that this dust collector owed me. It served me very well over those years.

Checking Craigslist, I found a lightly used Delta 50-850 that was available locally for $200. This unit is precisely the same as the Sears, just with different stickers & bags on it. The seller even offered to deliver it to me for no charge! Bought it.

Took the 1 micron top bag I had on the Sears, and replaced the original bag on the Delta that was lower rated. This DC (that's Delta Craftsman) is now in my garage working better than I'd come to expect from the old unit.

Next time around, perhaps I'll have the resources to buy a better dust collector. You know, one that will run more than 11 years without a problem.


----------

