# Slots in 3/4" poplar



## SnapperTrx (Mar 10, 2016)

I am relatively new to using a router. Just bought a table a few months ago for some template routing, which has been going well with the occasional 'learning experience'. I would prefer to keep these experiences to a minimum if I can be educated before attempting to do something. That being said:

I need to cut a slot 3/4" wide and 2" long in a piece of 3/4" poplar. I don't know if the best method would be to do it on the table or with the plunge router. Also, I would like to know what the best recommended bit would be, so as to avoid any issues during the cut. I have a small set of about twenty bits, one of those being a double fluted 3/4" straight cutting bit. That seems to be the most obvious choice, but I figure I would ask someone with more expertise than me before I go ruining boards.

Thanks for any input.

SnapperTrx


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Welcome, SnapperTrx...

The dimensions of the poplar might drive your solution...what might they be...? and the intended location and orientation of the slot in the poplar...? Will the slot go all the way through the poplar...?

My preference on bit size is typically smaller than the slot to be made and multiple passes to get to the desired dimension...guided by a template or jig whichever is appropriate...


----------



## SnapperTrx (Mar 10, 2016)

I am making a hand guard for a wooden sword. It is approximately 5" wide and 7" long (its a large sword). The slot will be straight down the middle, all the way through, and will be used to push the blade/handle combination through (which will be secured with a wooden dowel). I do not have a jig, but I am going to be cutting the edges of the guard using an MDF template, I could easily make a jig or template using some scrap MDF. Since I am fairly new to routing anything more than a groove and 45 degree edges, I am somewhat remiss to attempt this without some guidance, as I have hade some of my templates jump out of my hands during cutting. It's not a great feeling afterward, and its one I tend to try to avoid. Would you recommend the hand router over the table, then?


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Thanks for the additional info, Paul...

The most important thing you will master soon is securing the template or jig so that it does not escape. Double side tape, screws (if appropriate), pins, vice, etc...

5x7 piece is a little small for beginning work...you might consider making a frame to hold the piece on a bigger piece of wood base, then attaching the template to the frame. This would sandwich your 5x7 in a manner that a small router would then ride in to make your slot. You could also consider drilling holes at either end of the desired slot and then using a jig saw. Not everything needs to be done with a router.

You probably don't want to consider dropping the piece on the bit to make the slot although many of the most experienced folks on here would not have a problem doing that.

I would suggest a small compact router guided using the first method I suggested using a 1/2 straight or spiral bit to make the slot with multiple passes both for width and for depth. 

I'm sure you will hear plenty of other ideas...weigh what you're told and pick the MOST COMFORTABLE method...

If you look in my uploads (View Nickp's Uploads under my avatar), 2nd page, you will see a jig I made for myself for doing just what you are trying to do. Other forms of the same thing will also work...you will hear from others...


----------



## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Snapper

Still not quite sure what you are trying to accomplish with the "guard". Is it more like a hilt that will rest below the handle at the top end of the blade?

Since you need a piece 5" x 7" are your creating a slot through the long side or the short side?
Is it possible for you to start with a longer piece, then after you route the slot, cut it to the proper length?
If that is the case, and you have a long enough piece that will keep your hands well away from the cutter, you could drop the piece onto the bit, and use to stop blocks at either end that will determine your 2" length of slot.
If you do it that way, I would start by taking small cuts, no more than 1/16", and raise the bit slightly for each additional pass. Don't try to take a 3/4" depth all at once.

Can you post a picture of the sword and the workpiece so that we have a better ideal of what you're trying to do? You can post pictures directly from your computer before you have posts.


----------



## SnapperTrx (Mar 10, 2016)

Thank you. I will likely rig up some type of jig using the remaining MDF. The 'drop down' method you refer to is the one that game me cause to reconsider my options, as it seems like a bit of a risk for someone with my lack of router experience. It will take a little extra work, but I would rather spend the extra time in my garage than in the emergency room.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Paul trying to cut that slot on a table is dangerous. The plunge is the way to go. Make sure that your 3/4 bit is designed to center cut. Not all bits are. You can use a bit that isn't designed to center cut if you pre-drill to the correct cutting depth. Spiral bits will center cut but they are more money and a 3/4 would be fairly expensive.

There is a jig I make for grooving that would work for you. It's a frame you build on top of a piece of panel board that uses spacers to center your work and then you use the frame to guide the router and the cut. There is a sketchup drawing in my uploads of the concept and I think there was a picture I took to give the basic idea. You access member's uploads by clicking on the uploads link below each member's user name. There is a link beside the pictures that will take you to the post they were originally featured in.


----------



## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

Paul, all these gentlemen have plenty of experience. You will do well to heed their advice.

The last thing you need is a piece of wood sent flying out from under you to who knows where. Caution should always be the order of the day when dealing with anything to do with a router.


----------



## SnapperTrx (Mar 10, 2016)

You can see what I am attempting to accomplish from the attached image. In past builds I have drilled two holes at opposite ends of the slot then used a jig saw to cut out the material. The results have been sufficient, but less than stellar, as I am often left using a file to get rid of a lot of material that gets left over. A hole cut via a router and template seems like it would be much, much faster and smoother, but also inherently more, shall we say 'dangerous' to perform. These wooden knives are a much smaller format than my swords, which have 2" slots, as opposed to these, which only had 1 1/4" slots. I am attempting to find a way to speed up the process without putting my hands in danger.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Welcome Paul to the forum and world of routers....
starting W/ this post you can have acess to the library and it it will take several posts...

..


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

more reading...


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

more still.....


.


----------



## SnapperTrx (Mar 10, 2016)

Thank you. Though I am already quite familiar with basic safety and feed direction, the documents you have provided will be very helpful. I appreciate it. Also, your profile picture is frightening.....just thought I would throw that out there.


----------



## SnapperTrx (Mar 10, 2016)

vchiarelli said:


> Snapper
> 
> Still not quite sure what you are trying to accomplish with the "guard". Is it more like a hilt that will rest below the handle at the top end of the blade?
> 
> ...


Here are images of both the hand guard (MDF template) and the blade (cut from an MDF template on the routing table). The slot in the hand guard will allow me to slide the blade, handle side down, into the slot until the top of the guard meets the stops I have cut into the blade at the top of the handle/base of the actual blade.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

SnapperTrx said:


> Thank you. Though I am already quite familiar with basic safety and feed direction, the documents you have provided will be very helpful. I appreciate it. Also, your profile picture is frightening.....just thought I would throw that out there.


yur welcome...

frightening...
that's a 1st...


----------



## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

SnapperTrx said:


> Thank you. Though I am already quite familiar with basic safety and feed direction, the documents you have provided will be very helpful. I appreciate it. *Also, your profile picture is frightening*.....just thought I would throw that out there.


That's what I've thought all along - frightening but.... he's one of the most knowledgeable folks on here, and he really is a nice guy.



SnapperTrx said:


> Here are images of both the hand guard (MDF template) and the blade (cut from an MDF template on the routing table). The slot in the hand guard will allow me to slide the blade, handle side down, into the slot until the top of the guard meets the stops I have cut into the blade at the top of the handle/base of the actual blade.


I see what you're trying to accomplish.

Sorry, wanted to add a couple of pictures for you

You've got two options depending on what you have:

1. If you have a router edge guide.... I would hog out most of the material as you have done in the MDF piece, then using a smaller bit and and edge guide, I would clean up the edges. The rounded portion at the end could be cleaned up with a chisel.

2. If you've got a top bearing straight bit, you could create a template as you've done and use that to clean out the slot.

As I said earlier, don't try to hog out the entire depth at once - light passes until you're through.

Lastly, keep the guard as large as possible, until you've got the slot cut, THEN, shape it the way you want with whatever saw you have at your disposal.

If you go to your profile page and fill it out, listing the tools at your disposal, the folks here might be able to give you some more detailed help. And a first name is always nice - makes it more personal, otherwise you'll forever be known as snapper or n/a

Hope that helps - throw out more questions if you need - we don't bite.

Vince


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

vchiarelli said:


> and he really is a nice guy.
> 
> Vince


oh crap...
something else to live down...
Thanks Vince...


----------



## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

"...and he really is a nice guy."

Vince, why are you trying to mislead Paul. You know that Stick is just reeling him in.>>>


----------



## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

schnewj said:


> "...and he really is a nice guy."
> 
> Vince, why are you trying to mislead Paul. You know that Stick is just reeling him in.>>>


I want him to let his guard down so that it'll be totally unexpected when stick pounces>


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@schnewj, Vince, Nickp, TwoSkies, SnapperTrx, CherryVille, DaninVan, Cocobolo and 
what's up w/ you guys???
I feel like I have a new one or the ''stuff'' that will take to at least the end of eternity to live down if I'm lucky...

not only that the dog has been has been hiding in the closet sulking for the last two days....
I can't tell if the dog is now on strike after read Nick's post or what....


----------



## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

nuthin' your avatar is scaring people, so I got you a new one.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

vchiarelli said:


> nuthin' your avatar is scaring people, so I got you a new one.


now that scares me...


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

If I'm not mistaken, looking at that pic, looks like a simple job for a scroll saw, band saw, or jig saw.

HJ


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

you forgot chainsaw...


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Oh yeah, or a chainsaw.

HJ


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

hot wrench..


----------



## SnapperTrx (Mar 10, 2016)

honesttjohn said:


> If I'm not mistaken, looking at that pic, looks like a simple job for a scroll saw, band saw, or jig saw.
> 
> HJ


I'm afraid I do not have a scroll saw, though I am sure I could likely use my jigsaw to finish off the job now. Strangely enough, I never thought about using my forsner bit to clear out the majority of the material until I thought about using the router. Also, I thin that using the router along with the jig would save me from having to make so many minor adjustments with the file, as the router bit would make a smooth cut of the precise width. That being said, I may go ahead and try using the jigsaw this time around and see how it does. I guess sometimes an obvious choice isn't obvious until it is.


----------



## SnapperTrx (Mar 10, 2016)

vchiarelli said:


> That's what I've thought all along - frightening but.... he's one of the most knowledgeable folks on here, and he really is a nice guy.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, I will go to my profile and finish the tool section some time tomorrow. In the meantime, I do have a flush trim bit with top/bottom bearings I just bought over last weekend from Woodcraft. It's a fantastic bit. In addition I do have a flush trim bit with a top riding bearing as well that I can use with my cheap, but functional plunge router. As I said, I have only just started using the routing table, mostly for template routing, and even that has be somewhat terrified. I tried doing some small climb cuts to prevent blowing out the corners of some of my pieces, but was only successful a couple of times. The other times the wood was thrown from my hands, which prompted me to buy the double bearing bit. It helped a lot during the cutting of this blade/handle, but I still had some minor issues I chalk up to lack of experience. I plan on investing in a couple of Gripper pads as soon as I can afford it. I appreciate all of the help and information everyone has provided for someone who really doesn't make anything all that special.


----------



## cocobolo1 (Dec 31, 2015)

vchiarelli said:


> That's what I've thought all along - frightening but.... he's one of the most knowledgeable folks on here, and he really is a nice guy.
> 
> Vince


Oh come on Vince...don't tell me he's got you fooled as well? >


----------



## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

nope Keith, see post 19


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Cut the slots in long pieces first, then cut them down to length. Use stop blocks for positioning on each side of the fence. Cut the first, turn the workpiece the other direction, then cut the second using the same stop blocks to limit the length of the slot. Doing this on the table means pressing the piece down onto the bit, and dong so slowly, using some kind of push block to keep it under control without risking your fingers. The bit should be just slightly a little over half the height of the thickness of the wood so you can flip it over. 

Another method to consider. Here's a video of cutting a through slot using a plunge router and an edge guide. Double sided tape and the weight of the router holds the workpiece down. If the workpiece is too narrow for the edge guide, tape a wider piece to one side. Cut it on a foam block, or cut most of the way through then blip it end for end to cut the final bit of wood away.


----------



## SnapperTrx (Mar 10, 2016)

DesertRatTom said:


> Cut the slots in long pieces first, then cut them down to length. Use stop blocks for positioning on each side of the fence. Cut the first, turn the workpiece the other direction, then cut the second using the same stop blocks to limit the length of the slot. Doing this on the table means pressing the piece down onto the bit, and dong so slowly, using some kind of push block to keep it under control without risking your fingers. The bit should be just slightly a little over half the height of the thickness of the wood so you can flip it over.
> 
> Another method to consider. Here's a video of cutting a through slot using a plunge router and an edge guide. Double sided tape and the weight of the router holds the workpiece down. If the workpiece is too narrow for the edge guide, tape a wider piece to one side. Cut it on a foam block, or cut most of the way through then blip it end for end to cut the final bit of wood away. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e6hHKsg3b58


I saw this video earlier in the day and it seemed to be the right way to go, although I was a little disturbed that the piece being worked on was not secured in any way. The edge guide and a flush trim bit seems to be the way to go for the MDF template, as I should have not problems cutting through the remaining material. Afterward, using the template along with the flush trim + bearing should make quick work of the poplar, as I will drill out most of the material with the forsner bit first. I will attempt to finish this piece over the weekend, and will report back the results. I am very happy with the numerous amount of responses! Thanks!


----------



## old coasty (Aug 15, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> @schnewj, Vince, Nickp, TwoSkies, SnapperTrx, CherryVille, DaninVan, Cocobolo and
> what's up w/ you guys???
> I feel like I have a new one or the ''stuff'' that will take to at least the end of eternity to live down if I'm lucky...
> 
> ...


Dog wants to go fishing.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

old coasty said:


> Dog wants to go fishing.


as soon as the two colliding fronts decide what they are going to do...


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> @schnewj, Vince, Nickp, TwoSkies, SnapperTrx, CherryVille, *DaninVan*, Cocobolo and
> what's up w/ you guys???
> I feel like I have a new one or the ''stuff'' that will take to at least the end of eternity to live down if I'm lucky...
> 
> .


I get blamed for everything! Other than putting you on call 24/7, what'd _I_ do? 0


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> I get blamed for everything! Other than putting you on call 24/7, what'd _I_ do? 0


blame????

.


----------



## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> I get blamed for everything! Other than putting you on call 24/7, what'd _I_ do? 0


It's all good, Dan. He's just out of sorts because apparently Nick upset the kids and they have been sulking.:grin:


----------



## SnapperTrx (Mar 10, 2016)

So the first part of the cutting went exceedingly well. I used the rig below to shear off the edges of the slot from the MDF. It was extremely simple. Next I will try with the poplar wood using the template and the same rig.


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

schnewj said:


> It's all good, Dan. He's just out of sorts because apparently Nick upset the kids and they have been sulking.:grin:


If I knew they could read, I would have worded it differently...

...or did Stick drop the dime on me...? Sheez...didn't even wait for the bamboo shivs...


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

SnapperTrx said:


> So the first part of the cutting went exceedingly well. I used the rig below to shear off the edges of the slot from the MDF. It was extremely simple. Next I will try with the poplar wood using the template and the same rig.


Nice job with the jig, Paul...looks like you covered all your concerns...


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> If I knew they could read, I would have worded it differently...
> 
> ...or did Stick drop the dime on me...? Sheez...didn't even wait for the bamboo shivs...


Please do not under estimate the capabilities, abilities, integrity nor the talents of the staff members of Stealth Security, LLC...

Furthermore. in the light of that there are negotiations underway, ''dropping the dime'' would be most counter productive...

*NOTE:*
the shivs are not bamboo but are ectoderm...


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Dime not being worth what it used to be...


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

If you have more than a few to do..
I wonder if a Mortise chisel would work for you since poplar is so soft..
find an inexpensive one and use it manually after drilling out the bulk of the material...
they are easy to maintain sharpness...


.


----------



## SnapperTrx (Mar 10, 2016)

I don't know why my images are not posting, let me try this again:

Here is a little more progress on the project. So far things are looking really good, despite the fact that I made some incorrect measurements. Overall I think it will still be a good piece. This will probably be the last post I will make on this subject until it is completed, then I will post a finished image. I really appreciate all the feedback and information everyone provided, it helped a lot!


----------



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Hey Stick -- want to play pirate??

HJ


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

honesttjohn said:


> Hey Stick -- want to play pirate??
> 
> HJ


got to much on the plate....
besides the frigate needs a new mast and sails...


----------



## SnapperTrx (Mar 10, 2016)

Stick486 said:


> If you have more than a few to do..
> I wonder if a Mortise chisel would work for you since poplar is so soft..
> find an inexpensive one and use it manually after drilling out the bulk of the material...
> they are easy to maintain sharpness...
> ...


Thanks, but the 1/2" planks I cut seem to have worked exceedingly well! In fact they work well and quick, as all I have to do is stick them in place with some double side tape, drill the holes out with the forsner bit then hit it with the router. It could only be easier if I had a house robot to do it for me!


----------



## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Snapper, looks like you're well on your way - looking forward to the final product


----------

