# King router to Ryobi table?



## Bkanick (Nov 22, 2009)

Hello. I am Nick from Quebec city and have recently purchased a King model 8367 Router hoping I might be able to mount it to a Ryobi router table (A25RTO2). It would seem that there are no compatible holes for the King router on the Ryobi universal mounting plate. Has anyone here come up against this problem and found a goo and simple solution that doesn't call for a machine shop?
Thanks, Nick


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Welcome to the forum Nick!


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

You will probably have to center, and drill out new holes to mount. sorry, it isn't to hard to remove the base from the router and center it on the mounting plate. Welcome to the forum, and i am sure others will help you with that table. I am not familiar with it.


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## Bkanick (Nov 22, 2009)

Thank you Bob and Dutchman. I've still been planning out the geometry of making my own. I think I'll have to find a piece of 3/8 plastic though. The mounting screws on the King router seem a bit small and might tear through plywood.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the forums Nick.


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## Bkanick (Nov 22, 2009)

Having made a adaptor/bottom plate to fir between the Ryobi table and the King router I must say I wouldn't suggest to anyone to but a King router for the purpose of table routing. It really hasn't been designed with this in mind. Also, with 1/4 inch bits fitted, it doesn't seem to have a plunge depth suitable for using the full cutting surface of the bit.
Thanks to all for your help,
Nick


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## Bkanick (Nov 22, 2009)

Thank you Doctor Dave.


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

Bkanick said:


> Having made a adaptor/bottom plate to fir between the Ryobi table and the King router I must say I wouldn't suggest to anyone to but a King router for the purpose of table routing. It really hasn't been designed with this in mind. Also, with 1/4 inch bits fitted, it doesn't seem to have a plunge depth suitable for using the full cutting surface of the bit.
> Nick


Nick:
It was trying to find info on this very machine that brought me to this forum. The King is so attractively priced and my other King tools (cordless drill, biscuit cutter, compound mitre saw, air compressor) have all served me well.

I thought I had found an alternative to the pricier "brand name" 3 1/4hp routers but you have stopped me in my tracks. :sad:
I am a casual hobbiest and don't really need a tool that will withstand heavy shop use. But I do want to be able to use a 3 1/2" panel raising bit and that, I am told, requires a 3 hp machine.

What is it that makes you unhappy about using the King in a table?
If it is primarily that the base plate screws holes are too small, I could get an aluminum table plate or use a clamp system to mount the router. Also the problem with 1/4" bits will not likely affect me.

I would like to hear more from you about your experience with the King in a table before I make a mistake. I don't know much about routers.
Thanks


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Terry,

I have not worked with either but, to the extent there is a problem it is highly probable the problem is in mating the router to a router table designed for one specific series of router, not in mounting the King to a table.

Most routers have a removeable plate on the bottom, typically some kind of plastic about 1/8"-1/4" thick, held on with screws. That plate can be removed and a attached to a universal mounting plate. That plate is designed to set into a universal router table. The tables themselves can be inexpensively made or (not so inexpensively) purchased. 

When I say "universal plate" I'm not talking about one with swiss-cheese-like holes for all routers but typically one with only the center hole for the bit. They provide instructions and you drill the holes, using the existing plate as a template.

The same technique (using the plate as a drilling template) could theoretically be used with specialty tables like the Ryobi although most of them use cast aluminum for the top with ribs for structural strength that would require milling (assuming the table was strong enough after the material was removed).

Others here will likely expound on what I've said or offer other ideas. Read what they have to say; some of them may have an even simpler solution for you. Also, we have a fair number of Canadians in the forum that have probably used King routers and can speak to the advantages and disadvantages of them. Also it is likely that the King uses the same bolt pattern as some other router and hopefully someone can speak to this.

Also, I expect some of them will speak as to their experience with 3-1/2" raised panel bits in smaller routers. Also be aware that the same proviles are available in vertical bits (panel cut vertical against the fence during the cut) with very good results. I'll leave that discussion to others that have used those bits, for I have not.

I hope this helps a little bit.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Terry, I really don't know what the attraction of a 3 1/2" horizontal panel raising bit is when all profiles are available in the much cheaper and safer vertical bits. As experienced as I am, I still cringe at the thought of such a mass of steel spinning in front of me.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Terry, I really don't know what the attraction of a 3 1/2" horizontal panel raising bit is when all profiles are available in the much cheaper and safer vertical bits. As experienced as I am, I still cringe at the thought of such a mass of steel spinning in front of me.


Hay Harry:

Is there a vertical 1 1/2" round over bit? I got caught with that one.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

dawziecat said:


> Nick:
> It was trying to find info on this very machine that brought me to this forum. The King is so attractively priced and my other King tools (cordless drill, biscuit cutter, compound mitre saw, air compressor) have all served me well.
> 
> I thought I had found an alternative to the pricier "brand name" 3 1/4hp routers but you have stopped me in my tracks. :sad:
> ...


Hi Terry and Nick:

Nick, I'm just outside Quebec City. Small world isn't it?

Ok, for your King. The specs aren't too bad. I would prefer a lower bottom end speed 8,000 rpm instead of 9,000 and 30,000 in the top end would be nicer. But that aside, the router ain't bad.

Your problem of getting Brand X router to mate with Brand Y table isn't unique. There are companies who's routers don't fit their own tables. That's why I espouse the Router Workshop/OakPark (the Rosendahl's) philosophy. Alternatively, study their philosophy and make your own baseplates and tables. To date, I list 12 different base plates, each for a different purpose. The only way to get these is to make them yourself. Might as well start learning early.


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## dawziecat (Dec 8, 2009)

Many thanks to both Harry and Jim.

In my ignorance I got the impression that the large horizontal panel raising bits were "the proper way" of raising panels. I am quite clueless on this matter and much appreciate being informed about the vertical alternative.

Would not a less powerful router, say a 2 1/4 hp machine, not be perfectly acceptable to use stick and coping cutters to produce rails and stiles as well as a vertical cutter to to raise the panels?

I ask this because Home Depot is presently selling two Freud router table packages, one with their 2 1/4 hp model and the other with the 3 1/4 model. As a casual hobbyist, building a little furniture, I would prefer saving the $230 premium after taxes that the kit with the more powerful machine would cost me. The small Freud table, priced at $300 CDN plus taxes is attractive if it will do the job swinging the rail and stile cutters and raisin panels with a vertical bit.

Do you think it will be satisfactory in such an application?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Bkanick said:


> Hello. I am Nick from Quebec city and have recently purchased a King model 8367 Router hoping I might be able to mount it to a Ryobi router table (A25RTO2). It would seem that there are no compatible holes for the King router on the Ryobi universal mounting plate. Has anyone here come up against this problem and found a goo and simple solution that doesn't call for a machine shop?
> Thanks, Nick


Hi Nick -
Is that the table with the diamond shaped plate and 1/4" deep mitre slot? 
Also made from MDF?
If it is, I saw a post some time ago where the owner cut it out for a regular rectangular plate and routed the mitre out for a aftermarket mitre slot. Can't recall just where I saw it. I searched this forum and came up empty, may have been on another. 
It did come out pretty decent except he couldn't find a plate that would cover all the points of the diamond shape so had to do something with those.
Seems to be typical of my experience with Ryobi.... Come up with a pretty decent tool.... almost...... and then either won't spend the extra nickel or have a stupid department in engineering to prevent it from being top-of-the-line. Seems like they got rid of anyone who had anything to do with the BT3K.


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## Bkanick (Nov 22, 2009)

I made a 3/8 plate but found the adjustment on the router would only send the tip of the router bit in contact with the wood. I was using the 3/8 collet and bit to make quarter round. The length of the shaft of 3/8 bits basically precludes using them even with the edge guide removed and the hight adjustment all the way down. Perhaps it would work with a 1/2 inch bit with a longer shaft though.


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Hello Nick,
I HIGHLY recommend ditching the stock plate AND plastic miter track for an aluminum plate and aluminum miter track. I have the same table and did just that. I purchased a Rockler large blank plate and drilled it to fit my ryobi router ( you can drill it to fit any router, even your King ) and I also purchased a 3' section of Rocklers aluminum miter track.
The difference is astounding. No vibration in the plate, No more catching on the edges of the plate, no slop in the miter track due to the plastic track bending. 

Here is what I did............










You will find it well worth your efforts. It basically turns a so so table in to a good table.
As you can see the plate is not quite large enough to overlap the long side of the diamond shape but that's not a big deal at all. 
I didn't permanently attach the plate to the table either. This makes it possible to remove the router and plate attached to be used as is and then plopped back in the table.
You'll have enough room to do bit changes above table as well with the larger throat size of the large blank plate. I drilled a hole for the above table height adjustment wrench to pass through
as well ( which also makes above table bit changes a snap.)

Also, if you haven't already done so.. remove the fence, flip it over, and sand all the molding seems flush. Remove the out feed side MDF sacrificial fence as well and do the same. Shave off about 1/64" or less from the bottom of each sacrificial MDF fence as well and it wont stick until you make the hold downs sloppy loose, or tighten down cock eyed. 
It will be a much better fence for your efforts. I have done the same to mine and now I have virtually no complaints with the stock fence.

Hope this helps


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Nice setup, Duane...


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Thanks Jim. Its no Benchdog but it does the trick


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Duane867 said:


> Thanks Jim. Its no Benchdog but it does the trick


Yeaah!! That's what I was referring to in my last post here!! Just couldn't find the link and CRS had set in..
When I was shopping for a table I looked very hard at that one, I really liked the size, fence and tape layouts. Rejected it because of the plate and mitre slot. You overcame those very nicely.


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## darrell7485 (Jul 31, 2006)

I have a King router mounted in my table. I installed a base plate from oak park type "A", removed the plunge springs from the router and it works great for raised panels and anything else that I've made. I purchased it in 2004 and have had no problems yet. I'm retired and my woodworking is not limited to only weekends so my router gets a good workout. I'm happy with it.


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