# How is this made/cutting board designs



## Soapdish (Jan 18, 2010)

Was looking for some idea's for my next cutting board(s) and found this one. How did this guy make the pyramids?









Also, I am interested in making some boards with handles in the them. Like the one below. What is the best way to make the cutout? I am thinking I just need to make a template and just rough cut the hole and the use a flush trim bit, and then follow up with a round over. I know this has been asked before, but for the juice groove is a bowl bit used?









Jake


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey jake..

I'd say a well spaced overlapping "V" groove bit is what did the first one. 
I think ya nailed it for the second set of boards... a bowl bit.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hi Jake,
That first one looks like a good job for skiis


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Jake, I agree completely with John; in fact I do not know of any alternative that would not take much more time and would not be prone to mjultiple errors.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I'd hate to be the one to scrub that 1st one clean.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Tom..

same effect can be accomplished with an Incra fence...

Just not a big fan of doing t his "blind"... especially with the oval
for a boarder.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jake 

chat with BigJim, I'm sure he can give you a tip or two, I also made a test board in the pyramids way but not as nice.

http://www.routerforums.com/big-jims-gallery/19249-trivets-incra.html

http://www.routerforums.com/big-jims-gallery/19250-cutting-board-old-project.html

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Soapdish said:


> Was looking for some idea's for my next cutting board(s) and found this one. How did this guy make the pyramids?
> 
> 
> Also, I am interested in making some boards with handles in the them. Like the one below. What is the best way to make the cutout? I am thinking I just need to make a template and just rough cut the hole and the use a flush trim bit, and then follow up with a round over. I know this has been asked before, but for the juice groove is a bowl bit used?
> ...


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## Soapdish (Jan 18, 2010)

I was just curious as to how it was done. My tool inventory and more importantly, skill level, prohibits me from making something like that. I definitely would not like to have to scrub that. 

Concerning the handle cutout. Would it be better to trim this out on the RT or with the handheld, and which bit? Flush trim (bearing at the bottom of top of bit) or pattern bit (bearing near the shank)


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

I am betting this was done with an incra (or similar) fence system. If you watch some of the videos you can watch them make similar items.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I Jake 

I did mind with the ski jig setup,very easy job even with the Oval cut out..

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Soapdish said:


> I was just curious as to how it was done. My tool inventory and more importantly, skill level, prohibits me from making something like that. I definitely would not like to have to scrub that.
> 
> Concerning the handle cutout. Would it be better to trim this out on the RT or with the handheld, and which bit? Flush trim (bearing at the bottom of top of bit) or pattern bit (bearing near the shank)


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Soapdish said:


> Concerning the handle cutout. Would it be better to trim this out on the RT or with the handheld, and which bit? Flush trim (bearing at the bottom of top of bit) or pattern bit (bearing near the shank)


Hi Jake - My choice would be a template with a spiral bit and bushing. Follow up with a bearing guided roundover.
Doing inside work on a RT makes me a bit jitterry.


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## Soapdish (Jan 18, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> I Jake
> 
> I did mind with the ski jig setup,very easy job even with the Oval cut out..
> 
> ======



Can you post a pic of how you set this up? I'm guessing it needs some sort of indexing jig?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jake

That's the neat thing about the ski jig,just a ruler and a pencil, mark the board and move the router to that point, I use stop blocks clamped on the table top for the stopping point and the starting point, I used a 90 deg. angle bit, it's that easy with the ski jig.

The sharp point on the bit will do all the indexing you need..

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Soapdish said:


> Can you post a pic of how you set this up? I'm guessing it needs some sort of indexing jig?


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Tom..
> 
> same effect can be accomplished with an Incra fence...
> 
> ...


Bill, you are correct. The Incra fence system would alllow the same pyramidal work to be done. I am not sure how the oval border would be done however.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tom

"I am not sure how the oval border would be done however"

With a simple oval template, I will post one on Wed. 

======
I did fine one, see below, it can be just about any shape you want it to be.
With the brass guide in the router and just about any bit ( core bit would be a nice touch..)the one below is a small one....

======


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Tom
> 
> "I am not sure how the oval border would be done however"
> 
> ...


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## Soapdish (Jan 18, 2010)

The rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper and deeper. Now I need to learn to make templates. Thanks for the pics Bj!

Oh, and I still need to make some better skis, a cam board, and.............................................................................................................................................................................................................the list just goes and goes.

Joining this forum has somehow cost me money and sleep.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Tom
> 
> "I am not sure how the oval border would be done however"
> 
> ...


You're a man of my own heart, BJ... With my Incra for the offsets, I was thinking of doing it just like the Incra trivets plan below, except with an oval template and a router guide as stop blocks. Then swap to a slightly smaller guide and round bottom bit for the perimeter cut.

I started a photo shoot on making these complete (my gallery has a trimmed down version) but my son and I were unable to get everything set up precise enough to end up with perfectly square intersections when you get to the tiny bits, so I've decided to design around my lack of skill and do the ones in the upper right corner of page 3. I haven't gotten back to it though, as my RT cabinet is taking what little shop-time I get. 

It's amazing how long its taking to make and mount 16 dovetailed drawers (especially when you have to correct for mis-planning), when you only get a couple of hours a week to work on them. It'll look OK when I'm done though, and with 10 of the drawers ~16"x30"x4" deep, I'll get a lot of storage from it.

Then comes the door and drawer fronts, and all of the trim... whew!

(Sorry to hijack the thread!)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tom

The easy way is to find a picture frame at WalMart/K-Mart/Target take the picture out and glass out and use it for a pattern ,they are cheap the norm about 2 bucks or less, from that point you can make just about any size you want it to be..to make a master female template with some 1/4" thick MDF.

You can always use the jig saw or the scroll saw to make the master template...


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mftha said:


> bobj3 said:
> 
> 
> > Hi Tom
> ...


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Soapdish said:


> The rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper and deeper. Now I need to learn to make templates. Thanks for the pics Bj!
> 
> Oh, and I still need to make some better skis, a cam board, and.............................................................................................................................................................................................................the list just goes and goes.
> 
> Joining this forum has somehow cost me money and sleep.


Jake, I know what you mean. I still think skis and now Bj' suggestion of a WalMart/Kmart/Target oval picture frame is the most economical way to go. The Incra fence is a wonderful piece of technology, but the cost is greater than that of my 3.5 hp variable speed router!


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I musta missed something. How did ovals get into the thread anyway? The original posted pics didn't really use ovals. More like rectangles with fairly large radii corners. 
I'm not saying a discussion/refresher on ovals is at all invaluable, just don't see where it contributes to Jake's potential project.:wacko:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jake 

Your welcome 

The ski jig and the cam board can be used in so many ways so it's worth the time to make one, I do go just a little over board I now have 4 of the ski jigs to me it's like having a full set of screw drivers, the right tool for the job..can't put in a number 2 screw with a number 5 tip screw driver..

Once you have the cam board and the ski jig you will look at the router job in a new light, if all that you use it for putting in slots you will say how did I ever do it without a ski jig..it's that great..

"The rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper and deeper" very true but that's the fun part about using the router 

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Soapdish said:


> The rabbit hole just keeps getting deeper and deeper. Now I need to learn to make templates. Thanks for the pics Bj!
> 
> Oh, and I still need to make some better skis, a cam board, and.............................................................................................................................................................................................................the list just goes and goes.
> 
> Joining this forum has somehow cost me money and sleep.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

It's just a example ,it can be a rectangle or just about anything and the fact is the rectangle is a lot easy to make.

By using the big guides (or the off set rings or sometimes called the Magic donut ) the fairly large radii corners are done easy..from a female square corner templates..

Just need to rip some stock up and glue up the strips to make a rectangle template, very easy job.


Off set rings below


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jschaben said:


> I musta missed something. How did ovals get into the thread anyway? The original posted pics didn't really use ovals. More like rectangles with fairly large radii corners.
> I'm not saying a discussion/refresher on ovals is at all invaluable, just don't see where it contributes to Jake's potential project.:wacko:


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

Looking at the pattern in the first cutting board, it looks very similar to some edge banding patterns, just on a bit larger scale. Those are not terribly difficult to make (at least they look easy). 

The general principle is to build them up sort of like a Swiss Roll cake and then slice off what you need. 

Router-Made Bandings - Fine Woodworking PDF Cover Page

This article (you need an on-line subscription to view, but a 14-day trial sub is free) outlines how to make some pretty clever bandings. By making them a bit thicker, you could incorporate them into a cutting board or tray.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

jschaben said:


> I musta missed something. How did ovals get into the thread anyway? The original posted pics didn't really use ovals. More like rectangles with fairly large radii corners.
> I'm not saying a discussion/refresher on ovals is at all invaluable, just don't see where it contributes to Jake's potential project.:wacko:


I think I can take the blame. What I described as ovals are better described as rounded rectangles. Nonetheless the problem of the template remains, and I think Bj answered that.


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## Soapdish (Jan 18, 2010)

I was digging around in the kitchen today and found a couple of small cuttingboards that will work nicely as a template. I like the picture frame from WM idea. 

I need some suggestions as to what bit to buy to do template work (im talking about the outside edges and the handle cutout). I was looking at the spiral bits, but I really want something a little less expensive to start out with. I've got a 2 1/2 long 3/8 diameter flush trim, but I just don't like the vibration it has. Give me some ideas as to what you would use. Here is where I was looking. Which one(s) would you guys buy.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jake

Take a look at the hand saw hanging on the wall, that's your template for the handle cutout, just drill a hole for the trim bit to go in blank stock and router out the handle hole.
Or you can make one see below..


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Soapdish said:


> I was digging around in the kitchen today and found a couple of small cuttingboards that will work nicely as a template. I like the picture frame from WM idea.
> 
> I need some suggestions as to what bit to buy to do template work (im talking about the outside edges and the handle cutout). I was looking at the spiral bits, but I really want something a little less expensive to start out with. I've got a 2 1/2 long 3/8 diameter flush trim, but I just don't like the vibration it has. Give me some ideas as to what you would use. Here is where I was looking. Which one(s) would you guys buy.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

mftha said:


> Bill, you are correct. The Incra fence system would alllow the same pyramidal work to be done. I am not sure how the oval border would be done however.



Hey Tom...

thinking this was already mentioned however, a template would be used after the pyramids were routed out. Therein would lie the opportunity to kinda "clean things up"....

Looking at that first pic, just how many woodworking process's are involved. kinda cool...


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## Soapdish (Jan 18, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Jake
> 
> Take a look at the hand saw hanging on the wall


Now why did I not think of this :sold: . Thanks Bj!

Here's another one that I have I can use also.









I still need some bit suggestions!!:help:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jake

You had the link posted

Shear Angle Flush Trim Bits


=======


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## Soapdish (Jan 18, 2010)

Ok thanks!


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Hey Jake, Look what I tripped over at Hartville Tool:


Whiteside Plunge Cut Hand Grip Router Bits - 1/2" Shank

Need a firm grip on your wallet though:'(


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

I must be getting slow I don't get it ..

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jschaben said:


> Hey Jake, Look what I tripped over at Hartville Tool:
> 
> 
> Whiteside Plunge Cut Hand Grip Router Bits - 1/2" Shank
> ...


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> By using the big guides (or the off set rings or sometimes called the Magic donut ) the fairly large radii corners are done easy..from a female square corner templates..
> 
> Off set rings below



Bj, where did you obtain the offset rings? Over what size template guides do they fit?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tom

Shop made rings, for the 1 3/16" and the 1 1/2" guides, made with the holes saws the norm..

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mftha said:


> Bj, where did you obtain the offset rings? Over what size template guides do they fit?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi John
> 
> I must be getting slow I don't get it ..
> 
> =======


Hi Bob

I think it's the plunge aspect. You don't need a pilot hole first. They'll go straight in. That rake angle would be good for endgrain, too.

Cheers

Peter


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

mftha said:


> Jake, I know what you mean. I still think skis and now Bj' suggestion of a WalMart/Kmart/Target oval picture frame is the most economical way to go. The Incra fence is a wonderful piece of technology, but the cost is greater than that of my 3.5 hp variable speed router!


Please, don't take my reference to my Incra fence as saying it's necessary, as it's not. There are many cuts for which it (or any other fence) isn't the best tool for the job. The Incra is simply *one* example of a study router fence. It does have a couple of nice features, such as its repeatability and it's 1/32" toothed tracks in both X and Y planes make placement and the setting of stop blocks simpler and yes, repeatable. The calibrated adjustable offset of the infeed and outfeed fence is nice, if you use it for joining wood. The wonderfence's tall stock support is nice, as is it's provision for using tee-bolts throughout. That said, it is far from the do-all and end-all of routing or router fences. 

Is it "worth the money"? The honest answer is "it depends". The same issue applies to the hobbyist who buys a Woodpecker PRLv2, a Unisaw or Powermatic PM2000 table saws, a OneWay lathe, a Veritas or Lie-Nielson hand plane, a 12" premium SCMS, or for that matter a PC, Bosch, Freud, Makita or other premium router, or Snap-On or even Craftsman hand tools for that matter. The things that can be done with these tools can also be done equally well with less-expensive versions of them, sometimes with more skill or effort and possibly with some breakage and failed attempts. For some people 
they're "definitely worth the money" while for others they're "overkill". 

The same thing applies to boats, snow machines, 4-wheelers, motorhomes and many other things in life. As a former boat-owner I can tell you that you're hard pressed to justify the boat based on pounds of fish in the freezer. For casual snowmobile or motorhome owners, the vast majority would come out money-ahead renting one each time they use it and renting it as often as they use the one they own. There *is* no *correct* answer, for one must also factor in the intangible pleasure (or displeasure) you get from owning one.

Just my $0.02..


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Tom
> 
> Shop made rings, for the 1 3/16" and the 1 1/2" guides, made with the holes saws the norm..
> 
> =======


BJ... what material do you use for your rings and what thickness? I've got some 1/4" and 1/2" MDF lying about gathering dust, though it may not hold up.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

BigJimAK said:


> Please, don't take my reference to my Incra fence as saying it's necessary, as it's not. There are many cuts for which it (or any other fence) isn't the best tool for the job. The Incra is simply *one* example of a study router fence. It does have a couple of nice features, such as its repeatability and it's 1/32" toothed tracks in both X and Y planes make placement and the setting of stop blocks simpler and yes, repeatable. The calibrated adjustable offset of the infeed and outfeed fence is nice, if you use it for joining wood. The wonderfence's tall stock support is nice, as is it's provision for using tee-bolts throughout. That said, it is far from the do-all and end-all of routing or router fences.


I never took your reference to your Incra fence as saying it was necessary. I certainly can see that it is a very useful and convenient tool that can make the work go faster with greater reproducibility from session to session. 



BigJimAK said:


> Is it "worth the money"? The honest answer is "it depends". The same issue applies to the hobbyist who buys a Woodpecker PRLv2, a Unisaw or Powermatic PM2000 table saws, a OneWay lathe, a Veritas or Lie-Nielson hand plane, a 12" premium SCMS, or for that matter a PC, Bosch, Freud, Makita or other premium router, or Snap-On or even Craftsman hand tools for that matter. The things that can be done with these tools can also be done equally well with less-expensive versions of them, sometimes with more skill or effort and possibly with some breakage and failed attempts. For some people
> they're "definitely worth the money" while for others they're "overkill".


In my experience there is a safety factor that weighs heavily in favor of the premium routers. My first router, which I still have but refuse to sell, has only a 1/4 inch collet that lost its ability to hold router bits. After it attempted to launch the second bit to escape earth orbit, I thought "enough of this nonsense; I just might be in the way of the next launched bit" and bought what seemed to me at the time to be the best router for the money. You also name several other items which I do not have. I have a Router Raizor which operates manually, with no digital readouts or other such features, but it does allow the base plate to be changed so I can "get by" with one router for table use, hand held use and ski use (and I dream of someday router lathe use). I am a router hobbyist on a now limited budget; as you point out, what may be essential for a professional or serious hobbyist can be overkill for the weekend hobbyist. 



BigJimAK said:


> The same thing applies to boats, snow machines, 4-wheelers, motorhomes and many other things in life. As a former boat-owner I can tell you that you're hard pressed to justify the boat based on pounds of fish in the freezer. For casual snowmobile or motorhome owners, the vast majority would come out money-ahead renting one each time they use it and renting it as often as they use the one they own. There *is* no *correct* answer, for one must also factor in the intangible pleasure (or displeasure) you get from owning one.
> 
> Just my $0.02..


Jim, you have provided a very well thought out post that very well points out the differing situations and the cost/benefit ratios. In my opinion your post should be read especially by members relatively new to woodworking and give it serious thought. Great thanks for the post


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

I use what every I have on hand the norm ,plastic works best for me but I have some out of 1/4" and 1/2" thick MDF also, most are 1/4" thick because most of the pattern/templates are 1/4" thick ...
I have many more since the last picture most of the new ones are in the 6" to 10" range and have a new name called Magic Donuts to make the pattern bigger with the same templates..like the Oval Mirror patterns. 


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BigJimAK said:


> BJ... what material do you use for your rings and what thickness? I've got some 1/4" and 1/2" MDF lying about gathering dust, though it may not hold up.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

If you plunge in it would remove the stock that you want to round over as I see it..they say one would need to add a bearing and lock ring for template work, I just don't get it...  looks like a great way to make some firewood..

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istracpsboss said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> I think it's the plunge aspect. You don't need a pilot hole first. They'll go straight in. That rake angle would be good for endgrain, too.
> 
> ...


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hey BJ,

did you patent the name "magic donuts" lol

the way you showed me to make them is very easy and works great.

but ive eaten better donuts. hahaha


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey Bud

"patent the name " No ,I sold it from Bob R. and Rick R. 

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levon said:


> hey BJ,
> 
> did you patent the name "magic donuts" lol
> 
> ...


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

jschaben said:


> Hey Jake, Look what I tripped over at Hartville Tool:
> 
> 
> Whiteside Plunge Cut Hand Grip Router Bits - 1/2" Shank
> ...


Hi Bob - The writeup on the thing describes exactly what Jake was looking to do. They do talk about a bearing and collar with a template. I guess you don't need the cutout, just the template. Plunge it in and go for it. I think you would plunge toward the middle of the opening and move to the template. 
Looking at it I would think results would also depend a lot on the stock thickness and, of course, the price jumped right out at me. Not gonna be in the market myself, someone else may be interested.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

"Magic Donuts"

I really *like* that name... Magic donuts it is! I've got a sheet of 1/4" MDF in my garage gathering dust and, with a little help from my Jasper 400, I should be able to make a dozen or so donuts in various sizes to fit my Veritas guide rings in nothing flat. 

http://www.routerforums.com/tool-reviews/20581-circle-jig-jasper-400-a.html

Well, once I get my RT cab far enough along to mount the top on.. freeing up a pair of sawhorses and a 32x52" space in my shop.

I'm planning to make some more drawers for it today. I'll take some pictures and post the use of my KatieJig for large (16"x30") dovetailed drawers.


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## ccmnova (Nov 4, 2009)

One way to make the cutout is with a forstner bit - cut the two holes and then use a jigsaw to do the rest.


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