# Sommerfeld bits



## coupe (Mar 5, 2009)

Any one use these before. A friend and woods teacher sent me the link and asked me to consider them.I am mostly interested in their style/rail raised panel bits. They seem very cheap priced compared to whiteside. Not talking them down, because i have never used them. What caught my attention was that they are I believe the only router bit sets that give you 1/2 deep tennons. Makes using space balls or barrells very easy. because your panel still sets in a 1/4 deep groove. other wise you use the.188 barrells on the 3/8 sets. I just thought if they were werth their money they wood be a good investment for a guy wanting to build raised panel doors. Any insight guys I'm all ears.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi ty

His bits are getting better as time goes on,,at one time he sold the CMT bits and then he wanted to put out his own line and when he did that he had them made them in the way of the shaper cutters that cuts 1/2" deep, it makes it essayer to get the sizes for the door parts.. ( most bits cut 7/16" deep the norm..) and use the 4" rule for the door/panel parts..

I have some of his sets and the CMT sets as well,,I rate them some of the better ones.. I would say 5 stars out of 5 stars...

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coupe said:


> Any one use these before. A friend and woods teacher sent me the link and asked me to consider them.I am mostly interested in their style/rail raised panel bits. They seem very cheap priced compared to whiteside. Not talking them down, because i have never used them. What caught my attention was that they are I believe the only router bit sets that give you 1/2 deep tennons. Makes using space balls or barrells very easy. because your panel still sets in a 1/4 deep groove. other wise you use the.188 barrells on the 3/8 sets. I just thought if they were werth their money they wood be a good investment for a guy wanting to build raised panel doors. Any insight guys I'm all ears.


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## DPLRBruno (Mar 12, 2009)

coupe said:


> Any one use these before. A friend and woods teacher sent me the link and asked me to consider them.I am mostly interested in their style/rail raised panel bits. They seem very cheap priced compared to whiteside. Not talking them down, because i have never used them. What caught my attention was that they are I believe the only router bit sets that give you 1/2 deep tennons. Makes using space balls or barrells very easy. because your panel still sets in a 1/4 deep groove. other wise you use the.188 barrells on the 3/8 sets. I just thought if they were werth their money they wood be a good investment for a guy wanting to build raised panel doors. Any insight guys I'm all ears.


Hello Ty. I have several sets of the Sommerfeld's bit sets. I have great results from them. The thing I like most about his sets are this. You don't have to make any height adjustments from one bit to the other. When you have one bit set correctly and you change to the other matched bit it automatically lines up. I make alot of cabinet doors and it's almost flawless. Still have to make a test cut but rarely do I ever have to make any adjustments. If you get his catalog it goes through all proceedures for doing the doors and bit set up. You won't go wrong.
Bruno


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## Raymondabel (Dec 18, 2009)

DPLRBruno said:


> Hello Ty. I have several sets of the Sommerfeld's bit sets. I have great results from them. The thing I like most about his sets are this. You don't have to make any height adjustments from one bit to the other. When you have one bit set correctly and you change to the other matched bit it automatically lines up. I make alot of cabinet doors and it's almost flawless. Still have to make a test cut but rarely do I ever have to make any adjustments. If you get his catalog it goes through all proceedures for doing the doors and bit set up. You won't go wrong.
> Bruno


I confirm . I have almost all Sommerfeld's set. They work all #1.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Bruno,

You left out an important detail. Sommerfeld bits work this way when you install his supplied rubber insert in the router collet so you can bottom out the bits against it. If you don't use this insert there is no guarantee that the bits will match in height. The insert also keeps you from getting the bit stuck in the colletiwhen you bottom the bit out and tighten the collet. Normal practice for installing a router bit is to drop it into the collet and then lift it about 1/16" before tightening the collet. This becomes un-necessary when using the rubber insert.

Sommerfeld sells great router bit sets and supplies good DVD videos on how to use them properly. I've had great luck with them.

Charley


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/sommerfelds/catalog/page03.pdf

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## Limo (Jan 1, 2010)

I bought the glass door kit and the little rubber grommet he supplies doesn't seem to work with my router. I guess the router is a little too deep for the bits. I couldn't get them to hit the grommet. I have a porter cable 7518. It was no big thing but it would have been nice to see it work. I still got very nice doors made. Very good price for the kit.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I use his bits & they are of good quality. You won't be disappointed.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The grommet idea has merit but in the real world routers have different depths inside the shaft. There is a simple solution to this: measure the depth of your shaft and cut a piece of wood dowel to the length needed to properly seat the bit with the grommet in the collet. The dowel will not transfer heat and the grommet will allow the bit to move into the shaft as the nut is tightened. Since bit manufacturers do not have standardized shank lengths you may need to cut different dowels for different brands of bits. A way to keep them straight is to color code them; orange for CMT, dark blue for Bosch, red for Freud, etc.. If you have more than one router be sure to mark the name or model on the dowel to keep them straight.


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## Limo (Jan 1, 2010)

Thanks Mike! I don't know why I didn't think of that. That's why I read these forums.
One thing about the glass door kit is when you cut the slot for the glass it was a little too snug for the rubber that holds the glass in place. Just had to make a another light pass and everything was fine. I'm glad I bought the kit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I have used Marc's S. way for over 6 years, the grommets work fine in most routers but I do have some routers that need the dowel plug and the grommet glued to the top of them but I don't use them any more because I press in a faucet washer right into the collet that are just the right size, if you look real hard at the collets you have you will see why the faucet washers work so well..unlike the rubber grommet..

The glass panel router bit set is a great one if you use the rubber edging ,press in rubber that you can get from Marc, it will be just the right size..with only one pass of the bit..

I have posted many how to's how to use his set with many tips and jigs in my uploads. if you want to take the time to look at them..

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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

I use rubber O-Rings on all my bits to prevent bottoming out. I generally set the top of the O-Ring 1/8 inch from bottom of the bit which gives plenty of shaft bite. I use the fat ones pretty much undersize so once they are on they won't move.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ken

Me too, but I use them to keep me from grabbing the shank of the router bit right under the cutter that always has a bit of a high point on the router bit shank,that's the 1st thing I do when I get a new router bit..that and tighten the screws/nuts on new bits..

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Ken Bee said:


> I use rubber O-Rings on all my bits to prevent bottoming out. I generally set the top of the O-Ring 1/8 inch from bottom of the bit which gives plenty of shaft bite. I use the fat ones pretty much undersize so once they are on they won't move.


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## Limo (Jan 1, 2010)

Bob J, I figured I was doing something not quite right with the edge banding. I did buy it from Mark S. I will try to find your tips on the subject(you got a long list of stuff) 
Thanks for the input.

Wil


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Wil

Start with the old ones 1st. it's a bit quicker that way..
" start with 1045"

Here's just one of many
http://www.routerforums.com/31029-post5.html
note the jig to cut the rubber insert edging.

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Limo said:


> Bob J, I figured I was doing something not quite right with the edge banding. I did buy it from Mark S. I will try to find your tips on the subject(you got a long list of stuff)
> Thanks for the input.
> 
> Wil


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Limo said:


> I bought the glass door kit and the little rubber grommet he supplies doesn't seem to work with my router. I guess the router is a little too deep for the bits. I couldn't get them to hit the grommet. I have a porter cable 7518. It was no big thing but it would have been nice to see it work. I still got very nice doors made. Very good price for the kit.


I too have a 7518 and use Sommerfeld's setup. You are right that the 7518 has too deep of a chuck for the grommet.. but works perfectly with two grommets!!

I ordered enough of them to put some in each of my 1/2" router collets. It would be cheaper to go to a hardware store with the one and buy more. They don't have to be identical, beyond having the 1/2" OD.

They come in very handy in all of the routers as I no longer have to even think about not bottoming out any bit I use.


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## Limo (Jan 1, 2010)

Thanks Bob, I'll try that jig for cutting the banding. The problem I had was with the slot being so tight. Maybe I didn't have the height exactly right on the bit because I didn't put the grommet in and didn't leave enough room for the glass.

Thanks Jim, I'll try that trick.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

The key is that all the bits are match that's to say they/it will put the slot in just the right spot for the rubber insert , with the 1/8" thick glass in place..you can adjust the bit for 1/4" thick frosted glass or stain glass to fit..but it must be done with other bits in the set 1st. once set the slot will be in the right place..
That's to say set the other bits, to cut down 1/8" deeper in the frame.  then set the slot bit to cut in the default spot, use a 1/8" brass bar to set the slot cutter.

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Limo said:


> Thanks Bob, I'll try that jig for cutting the banding. The problem I had was with the slot being so tight. Maybe I didn't have the height exactly right on the bit because I didn't put the grommet in and didn't leave enough room for the glass.
> 
> Thanks Jim, I'll try that trick.


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## Kensway (Nov 28, 2011)

*Shaft length*



Mike said:


> The grommet idea has merit but in the real world routers have different depths inside the shaft. There is a simple solution to this: measure the depth of your shaft and cut a piece of wood dowel to the length needed to properly seat the bit with the grommet in the collet. The dowel will not transfer heat and the grommet will allow the bit to move into the shaft as the nut is tightened. Since bit manufacturers do not have standardized shank lengths you may need to cut different dowels for different brands of bits. A way to keep them straight is to color code them; orange for CMT, dark blue for Bosch, red for Freud, etc.. If you have more than one router be sure to mark the name or model on the dowel to keep them straight.


 Mike I just tried my cmt sommerfeld bits and none would even bottom out.Thanks for the idea of the dowel as I was thinking I had wasted my money on these bits.Have you tried the dowel and grommett yourself and was there any problem with vibration?Oh by the way my router is the porter cable 7518.


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## Frank Loomer (Jan 23, 2011)

I have invested in many Sommerfeld bits and can't tell the difference in them to CMT except color and most of all price. The boxes are exactly the same as CMT, the forms are the same as well as performance. A great bit at a great price. I am a very happy customer of Sommerfeld's. Try the DVD instruction videos and the adjustable set-up gauge. You will be as satisfied as I am with some change left in your pocket.


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## mjdorsam (Nov 27, 2011)

In my PC unit I used two grommets at the bottom - works perfect every time.


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## Kensway (Nov 28, 2011)

Hi Bob
I like your idea of faucet washers must be you have no problems with the washer continuing to stay in the same spot even though the router shank would get sucked down when the collett is tightened


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

" router shank would get sucked down when the collett is tightened[ "

That's a big snow job that most will lay on you, what would pull the shank down,it's true the collet moves in but not down so so speak, look real hard at your collet,most have a seat grind on the end/side of the collet ( Porter Cable is one of many,see picture above) once it's in or on that seat it's not going anywhere it many go down .0001 but that can be just a little dust that will do that..just for a quick test set up some gauges and see how much it moves when you tighten the collet nut, that's why the "F" washer will stay in place..

Many will say pull the bit up by a 1/16" to 1/8" off the bottom ,you need to think that one out all the way, it's not so because the bit will not move it's the heat transfer from one item a norther,think of it like putting a pan on a elec.stove,if you had a way to keep the pan off the coil it would take longer to heat up the pan..and heat kills most tools..and if you want to break a item free put some heat on it..but if you have a way to keep the heat from it ,it will stay in place longer, here's one more test,run your router for about 10 min's.and then pull the bit out and put you finger in the hole , the shaft of the motor will be hot to the touch unlike your router bit..thanks to the F washer/or the rubber grommet..

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Kensway said:


> Hi Bob
> I like your idea of faucet washers must be you have no problems with the washer continuing to stay in the same spot even though the router shank would get sucked down when the collett is tightened


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Many will say pull the bit up by a 1/16" to 1/8" off the bottom ,you need to think that one out all the way, it's not so because the bit will not move it's the heat transfer from one item a norther,think of it like putting a pan on a elec.stove,if you had a way to keep the pan off the coil it would take longer to heat up the pan..and heat kills most tools..and if you want to break a item free put some heat on it..but if you have a way to keep the heat from it ,it will stay in place longer, here's one more test,run your router for about 10 min's.and then pull the bit out and put you finger in the hole , the shaft of the motor will be hot to the touch unlike your router bit..thanks to the F washer/or the rubber grommet..
> 
> ===


I think another reason many suggest to pull the bit up is because many bits will bottom out under the cutter before the shank bottoms out in the collet. Pulling the bit up a little ensures that your collet will not tighten down on the transitional cove that is usually under the cutter. Tightening down the collet on this cove under the bit will certainly loose grip when the router is running. This results in damaged profiles as the bit wants to work it's way up out of the collet.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

This is when the rubber O-Ring comes in to play  it will always keep the bit out of the " transitional cove that is usually under the cutter " 

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jlord said:


> I think another reason many suggest to pull the bit up is because many bits will bottom out under the cutter before the shank bottoms out in the collet. Pulling the bit up a little ensures that your collet will not tighten down on the transitional cove that is usually under the cutter. Tightening down the collet on this cove under the bit will certainly loose grip when the router is running. This results in damaged profiles as the bit wants to work it's way up out of the collet.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I agree Bob but as you know there are many that do not use or know about that technique. I use the rubber grommet in the tables because this is where I use matching height bits when making cabinets. I don't usually use them in the other routers because sometimes I change the depth of the bit in the collet depending on what I'm doing. Most of the time I insert the bit in until it bottoms out & then just pull it back out a little.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James 

I agree with you but MANY routers have a very deep hole under the bit and it's hard to find the bottom on them..O-Rings take the guess work out of it..I see many post about the bit got stuck in the collet, guess why, to deep in the collet the norm and it will deform the collet..and jam the router in place and the next time you switch the bit out it will not go in right..  it's very easy error that many router user do..

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jlord said:


> I agree Bob but as you know there are many that do not use or know about that technique. I use the rubber grommet in the tables because this is where I use matching height bits when making cabinets. I don't usually use them in the other routers because sometimes I change the depth of the bit in the collet depending on what I'm doing. Most of the time I insert the bit in until it bottoms out & then just pull it back out a little.


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## Kensway (Nov 28, 2011)

Bob thanks for the information concerning what really happens to the bit when colett is tightened.Presently I have dowel and gommett think I will go with your Idea,simple is always better.


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