# Steam bending



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

A topic that keeps popping up on the forums is how to bend wood. Here is a quick and easy way to steam the wood:
Steam Bending Kit and Plan - Rockler Woodworking Tools


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I've just received a 20% discount coupon from Rockler bringing the price of the steam kit down to $71.99.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Do you have Rockler stores outlets in AU.. 


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harrysin said:


> I've just received a 20% discount coupon from Rockler bringing the price of the steam kit down to $71.99.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

No Bob but I do buy from them, also from Woodcraft. This week I'm expecting a woodturners apron and next week a digital thickness gauge for bowl turning.


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## Mayhem (Jul 15, 2012)

I've built a few fishing nets using walnut and ash cut in thin strips. I used a section of metal gutter downspout and a propane burner and it worked quite well. I already had the burner so the cost was just a few dollars for the downspout. Seal the ends so the water can't leak out and you are in business.


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## 57759 (Apr 8, 2011)

I've had the forms made for bent baby high chair arms for longer than I care to admit and maybe that will make the top of the list this coming winter but not now. I really don't want to think about heating anything with temps. 110°F day after day and over night lows 85.

The wood I use will probably be Native Elm ( American Elm ). Has anyone ever used that species? I'd like White Oak or Hickory but that isn't available here fresh cut.

My steamer is quite simple for this project and to be used on the kitchen range.


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## kt6762 (Jul 28, 2012)

Hello Harrysin , I just needed to say thank you for all your help and information. I have found myself not able to check out the rest of ROUTER FORM due to looking at your uploads . you are addictive . again Thank you.


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## kt6762 (Jul 28, 2012)

*forgot my question*



kt6762 said:


> Hello Harrysin , I just needed to say thank you for all your help and information. I have found myself not able to check out the rest of ROUTER FORM due to looking at your uploads . you are addictive . again Thank you.


on your skid does the router move freely on the Barr's wile in use ( left to right) ?:help :


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## bearclaw (Nov 2, 2011)

I have used a piece of 3" abs pipe with a cap propped over the kitchen kettle to bend walnut. 15 minutes per 1/4" thickness. A few rags around the mouth of the kettle to direct and keep the steam in. It bent like warm plastic.


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## maurosnickare (Nov 18, 2011)

Hi, there is an easy to build jig for that we used in my school, we took the idea from the tage frid book..practically is a box of marine plywood screw together with dowels in the inside where the stripe of wood are on, the tube box is inclined so the moisture can go out from a hole and on the other side there is a tube connected to a pan with the lid covered by a piece of rubber and the pan is on an electric stove and it's filled with the water..in about 40 minutes one hour maybe you can easily bend 3 or 4 mm stripe of beech or ash without big problem..


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## CabinetMaker (Dec 24, 2012)

Hey Guys 
I wd'nt trade my steam box for nothing save a truck load of Mahagony. I use it for chairs, arched door top casings and major piano repairs. Its made of stainless steel ductwork, insulated, 16" T x 20" W X 12' long. Propane heated water for steam, Plastic rebar supports for chairs. Doors @ each end which are hinged. Thermometer in the top. Takes a while to build up the steam but has never let me down. Ductwork was free from a commerisl renovation. For best results have all clamps, forms & glue ready. You will always need 2-guys if possible.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Del....

Do you have any experience bending cherry? I'm looking to bend 3" wide, 1/16" thick x approx 90" long strips of Qsawn (to avoid grain runout) cherry for a table I'm doing. Looking to build up the side to approx. 3/4-1" thick. Dia. of the table is approx. 26"s. I've also looked at just 'heat' bending. I do like the idea of steam a bit more. 
If I go with steam, I see my options as follows: I can make one continuous ring or I can do it in segments. With drawers on opposing sides I'm thinking doing it in sections might be a better way to go. Smaller steam box, Smaller jigs/platforms etc.I don't see any problems securing the integrity of the 'ring' only the consistency or keeping a smooth flowing circle transition from sides to drawer fronts. Drawer fronts will also be part of the ring. btw, i'm sure my terminology isn't correct...I really want to avoid sanding thru one layer into the underlying layer...

Any thoughts, suggestions or reference materials you might offer would be greatly appreciated. 

thanks
bill 



CabinetMaker said:


> Hey Guys
> I wd'nt trade my steam box for nothing save a truck load of Mahagony. I use it for chairs, arched door top casings and major piano repairs. Its made of stainless steel ductwork, insulated, 16" T x 20" W X 12' long. Propane heated water for steam, Plastic rebar supports for chairs. Doors @ each end which are hinged. Thermometer in the top. Takes a while to build up the steam but has never let me down. Ductwork was free from a commerisl renovation. For best results have all clamps, forms & glue ready. You will always need 2-guys if possible.


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## CabinetMaker (Dec 24, 2012)

Well you have selected the right grain configuration to avoid any grain runout. Yes I have bent a lot of different wood types & sizes including Cherry. If you do not currently have a steam box and intend to make one I would only make one capable of steaming at least an 8' piece with 3" clearance on each end. If I were building this table I would segment the pieces for several reasons. Obviously smaller lengths are easier to handle and glue up by 1- person and second the fact that drawer fronts are part of the ring almost dictates stopping and starting poings. 1/16" material is very easy to steam and bend for most any species. Once you have a box made and reach the temp of steam cook the piece for 1 hour, pull out and check the flex. If you have a tough time bending cook another hour and check again. 2-hrs should do it. You'll need a round form when its ready so you can clamp & let it dry. Overbend slightly. You can easily open it up while gluing in placed. Your form can be anything with a similar radius & thikcness. If you cannot find anything cut out 3- sheets of 3/4" MDF with spcers inbetween to achieve 3" thick. Use band clamps for glue up......Del


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Del... very much appreciate the come back. I do seem to have been heading in the right direction. Doing it in sections seems a go! Also forms will have to be fabricated. Something I just picked up on was that the wood "should be" AIR DRIED as opposed to green or kiln dried. Several sources indicate that a moisture content of 20-30% is optimal. With 20-25 being ideal. Green wood being too moist to begin will and kiln dried having been dried to the point that the lignum looses most of its ability to flex or stretch. 

I will be building a steam box, thinking that something along the lines of 6' long by 12"sq. will be plenty big enough for any foreseeable needs. I'll include some sort of dowels to act as hangers/separators along the length. One end sealed, the other with a hinged door. Temp indicator on both ends, along with a means to collect condensation and release excess pressure. Looking at marine grade ply for construction? Would you suggest using water proof adhesive or just screw? or both? I'm thinking just a heavy moving blanket drapped overtop as additional insulation. I like the idea of a manifold being used. Internal or external? Then there is the source of steam. Looking at all the options. I'm liking a good ole fashioned steam machine used for removing wall paper?


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## CabinetMaker (Dec 24, 2012)

On the first go around the plywood box will expand and seal up quite nicelywith hst screws. Marine grade is an excellent choice, 2 doors are ok & a 3% tilt will work best. My drain is a slot not a hole since smalll holes tend to get plugged up. My vent is a smaller slot @ the top end. I have bent all types of dried wood. This is so much of a learning curve I could not explain in a coulpe of seconds. Remember water is drawn up the tree thru wood fibers, xylem walls, tracheids & veins from the SHORT GRAIN end . Not thru the long grain. Though in a steam box, convection & moist heat will play a good part. I have built many windsor chairs with thick mat'l. The trick is how long you cook it. What steam source you use is a matter of choice, cooking, safety & efficientcy. Buy a good 2 prong moisture meter to chk before & after. Given some time , the meter will help you to learn the process & measure your results. You only need 1 thermometer at the top end.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

*Steaming - wish me luck*

Here's pics of my steam box, 48" long.

I have only tested it without wood.

It is made out of foiled insulation held together by a pine structure.
While you can't see it in the picture, the edges of the insulation are 45 degrees.
Thus there are no leaks along the entire 48" length of any of the 4 joints.

The long pieces of pine were rabbeted on my jointer and then cut off using my band saw.
Assembled using thin strips of pine and glue.

If I wanted to change the height, I would cut off the pine strips, cut two new pieces of insulation and reassemble/glue with longer pine strips.

Currently the opening is 5" high x 3.75" wide.



Light as a feather, I can lift it with one pinky.

Steam is from a wallpaper steam unit. (E-bay: $30.15 - $11 of that was shipping)

Held temp just fine in the test.

Since my shop is in my garage, the floor has a slight slope to it so water just runs off naturally downhill.


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## jficke13 (Jul 17, 2013)

I'm thinking of putting a steam box together to bend the arms on some chairs. Is the Rocker steam bending kit that was linked here the best option?


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## janggeungulk (Feb 10, 2014)

Thanks for this information.


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