# Super Sled



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I decided to build the Super Sled as seen on Eagle Lake Woodworking. Super Sled - Crosscut and Miter Sled

I have taken pictures and included a brief summary of what I did step by step.

I went and bought some 15 mm (1/2") Baltic birch plywood for the base.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Sizing Dado slot*

Using some callipers it is a simple matter of mathematics to get tight fitting dado cuts.

Here is how I did it.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Installing the Sliding Mitre Bars*

After sizing the dado I had to cut the groove on the bottom on the sled on the left hand side.

The thing I like about these sliding mitre bars from Incra is the ability to adjust the fit of the mitre bar in the slot by means of an allen key and disc.

I had to drill 1/2" holes using a forester bit. 

Here is how I lined up the holes.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Drilling holes on top of sled for adjustment screws*

The thing I like about these sliding mitre bars from Incra is the ability to adjust the fit of the mitre bar in the slot by means of an allen key and disc.

I had to drill 1/2" holes using a forester bit. 

Next I had to make the fence. To do this I used some 4/4 Walnut I had leftover from another project. I glued it up and used it for both the back and front fence.

Follow the step by step in the pictures.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Making the handle*

I had to make a handle to allow me to push the sled and secondly more important to help keep my fingers away from the blade.

I decided to use both maple and walnut for this. The handle will also have some plugs cut into it from the top to cover the screw holes. 

Next I made some brackets to allow me to cut mitres in the sled. I will be making some stop blocks to add repetitive cutting ability as well.

I used the router table to cut the groves with a 3/8" up-cut spiral bit. I used the double slotted T-Slot from Lee Valley. I like these t-track because they hold well and are easy to cut using a 3/4" router bit and my Bosch Palm router with the under cutting slot bit.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Dry Fit of Sled*

Here are some shots of the sled with the mitre bars I made.

I will need to cut some stop blocks and glue it up tomorrow.

Stay tune!


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Dan, i don't know which is better--your builds or your documentation of them!!

Thanks for taking the time to do that, your pictures really help me to see what to do. As a novice, it's great too that you include the mistakes--makes it much less intimidating to know that even the best craftsmen still make errors!!

earl


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## MasterSplinter1 (Jan 27, 2013)

WOW! Great build and step by step!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

greenacres2 said:


> Dan, i don't know which is better--your builds or your documentation of them!!
> 
> Thanks for taking the time to do that, your pictures really help me to see what to do. As a novice, it's great too that you include the mistakes--makes it much less intimidating to know that even the best craftsmen still make errors!!
> 
> earl


I agree, Earl.

Great write up, Dan.


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## thrinfo (Jan 21, 2012)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Here are some shots of the sled with the mitre bars I made.
> 
> I will need to cut some stop blocks and glue it up tomorrow.
> 
> Stay tune!


Thanks Dan, very nice work and really appreciated the work you've done and well explained and good and mistake (most of us we would show all the mistake we've done) but you show how to fix and well done, did you make a plan, as a pdf or SkethUp.
If you weren't to far, I would really liked to see your shop.

Thanks for sharing.


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## PaulH (May 30, 2012)

Guess what Im making tomorrow. Great work, thanks. Paul


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## swarfmaker (Aug 27, 2012)

Thanks for showing! I need this so will try to emulate.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

A superb build documentary. Thanks Paul.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thank you everyone for your comments. 

Earl it is normal for everyone to make mistakes, heck I make them all the time. I tried to build this after working a night shift, not a good idea I was tired and ended up going to bed after I messed the first dado up. I believe we all make mistakes and it is how we deal with them that sets us apart and shows a true craftsman. 

I have not included the plans for the sled because this is John Dixon's design. However, he has them posted on his web page complete with a two part video on how he made the sled. I have changed a few things but kept fairly close to the original design.

If you want to watch his video go here and click on "watch the video". When you are there you can also download his plans as a pdf or the original Google Sketchup plan.:

Super Sled - Crosscut and Miter Sled


Good Luck and enjoy the project.

Dan


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Yeah, i once read that the best and worst golfers on the PGA tour were not very far apart on the number and quality of good shots, but the separation came from being better at recovering from the off-line shots. 

Whether that's true or not, i don't know. But it's great to see it in woodworking.
earl


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Stops made*

I used some left over Walnut to make the two stops for the mitring boards.

Pretty straight forward and here are some pictures to show you what I did.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Top Mitre slot routed and installed*

I decided not to use the Kreg Top Track Kreg® Traks™ - Lee Valley Tools

Instead I used the double slotted mitre bar from Veritas. This matched the other mitre slots and I thought it would look better with everything matching. Who am I kidding, I am OCD when it comes to stuff matching! lol

Besides this saved my $37.00 and we can all use the extra coin right? :dirol:

Step by step this is how I did it.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Back Fence Handle Attached*

Next I had to attach the handle I made and attach it to the maple board which will then attach to the fence. I decided to attach the handle using #10 - 3" FH woodscrews and then cover the screw holes with some maple plugs. This thing will not only be rock solid but good pleasing to the eye. :yes4:

I did make another mistake here by attaching the handle to the wrong end of the maple board. This is not a big deal because I think I will now rip the height of the fence down to accommodate for the screws not lining up to the fence and thus allow me to use the Kreg Flip Stop I have. Right now the flip stop is too short due to the height of the fence being 3 1/2" tall.

I also cut the dado a tad bit too wide so I had to use a trick to fill my mistake. By simply using a bit of sawdust and glue you will see how I hid my mistake.

Step by step this is what I did today.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Well done Dan!!! She outta last you a lifetime. 

Excellent writeup as well!! 

b.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Well done Dan!!! She outta last you a lifetime.
> 
> Excellent writeup as well!!
> 
> b.


Hey Bill long time no hear, how are things out your way? Thanks for the kind words Bill, I am looking forward to using it for many years to come. 

I hope others who read this can see it is a very do-able project. I took my time and like always I like to make something for my shop. Nothing beats the feeling of using something that makes a project go easier and gives you better results.

My next project will involve the band saw.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

This thread should be nominated for something. Real good read ... Thanks for the effort.



TRN_Diesel said:


> My next project will involve the band saw.


Already watching for it.


GCG


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Dang TRN, that thing is beautiful.


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## Web Shepherd (Feb 8, 2012)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Thank you everyone for your comments.
> 
> I have not included the plans for the sled because this is John Dixon's design. However, he has them posted on his web page complete with a two part video on how he made the sled. I have changed a few things but kept fairly close to the original design.
> 
> ...


Dan ~ Outstanding demonstration. Love it. 
1. Would you be willing to summarize how your design differs from John Dixon's and indicate why you made your design changes. 
2. Would you be willing to provide a summary of your parts list?
3. How did you make room for the white discs on your miter bar (see photo 5 of 19). 
4. Do you plan to varnish or seal your sled or just leave it bare?


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Web Shepherd said:


> Dan ~ Outstanding demonstration. Love it.
> 1. Would you be willing to summarize how your design differs from John Dixon's and indicate why you made your design changes.
> 2. Would you be willing to provide a summary of your parts list?
> *3. How did you make room for the white discs on your miter bar (see photo 5 of 19). *
> 4. Do you plan to varnish or seal your sled or just leave it bare?


I can handle #3--the Incra "Miter Slider" and their miter guides come with those. The white discs are eccentric (the hole is not in the middle) so they can be turned to make an exact fit in a miter slot. Some companies, Kreg for example, use set screws tapped in the side of the miter bar to accomplish this. I've not used Incra's, but it sure looks like a great idea and seems less likely to move than the set screw approach.

Here's a look at the Incra site: INCRA Jig & Fixture Components :: Miter Slider

earl


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## Web Shepherd (Feb 8, 2012)

greenacres2 said:


> I can handle #3--the Incra "Miter Slider" and their miter guides come with those. The white discs are eccentric (the hole is not in the middle) so they can be turned to make an exact fit in a miter slot. Some companies, Kreg for example, use set screws tapped in the side of the miter bar to accomplish this. I've not used Incra's, but it sure looks like a great idea and seems less likely to move than the set screw approach.
> 
> Here's a look at the Incra site: INCRA Jig & Fixture Components :: Miter Slider
> 
> earl


Thanks, Earl. I believe that Dan used the Incra SE (special edition) steel (not aluminum) miter slider ... INCRA Jig & Fixture Components :: Miter Slider I would be interested to know how he likes the eccentric white disc adjusters (Incra calls them "Nylon Glidelocks - see thumbnail) and if he finds that the allen set screws are too tight and need to be lubricated. This issue was voiced on Amazon by a reviewer who went into great detail. My original question concerning photo 5 of 19 was how did Dan "notch" the sled to allow room for the Glidelocks to seat properly against the wall of the miter slot. It appears that he may have used a chisel. Again, a top notch demonstration with lots of good photos. I vote that Dan's super sled presentation be kept as a sticky. :yes4:


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Bob 
You are correct I did use the special edition mitre bars from Incra. To make the notch I simply used as you guessed a chisel. 

I did this by first placing the bar in the slot and making sure the front was flush to the sled. I used a pencil and marked the location and then used a chisel to make the notch.

I haven't an issue with adjusting the nylon guide locks. They are tight and if you just remove them like I did and then put s small drop of sewing machine oil on them they work a lot easier. 

The only change I may make is with the height of the fence Bob. I wanted to use the Kreg Flip stop I had over at my mitre station. Kreg® Precision Track & Stop System - Lee Valley Tools

The plans call for a 3 1/2" tall fence and this is too tall to let me use my stop. I have not cut the fence yet and will decide today what to do. Otherwise Bob I followed the plans exactly.

I will rub on some Tung Oil to finish the project. As the wood dries out over time I can simply re-apply. On the sled itself I will leave it as it is.

Parts list are:

(1) 15 mm Baltic Birch 24 x 36" $20.00
(2) Incra Mitre bars 25.5" $65.00 Incra® Miter-Slot Slider Bars - Lee Valley Tools
(3) 48" Veritas Double T-Slot $42.00 12K79.48 Veritas® Double T-Slot Track - Lee Valley Tools $42.00
(4) 2" Bar Knob, Female $9.00 Wing & Bar Knobs (1/4-20 Thread) - Lee Valley Tools
(3) 2" Four-Arm Knob, Female $6.75
(6) 1/4-20 x 2" T-Bolts $4.20
(1) 1/4-20 x 1" T-Bolts $3.20

Walnut 
Front Fence (2) 7/8" x 3 1/2" - 48" glued together
Back Fence (2) 7/8" x 3 1/2" - 11 1/4" glued together
Miter (2) 7/8" x 3 1/2" - 24"
Handle (1) 1 1/2" x 3" 
Stops (2) 3/4" thick 1.5 x 1.5"
Stops (2) 3/4" thick 1.5" x 1 7/8"

Maple 
Bottom section of handle 7/8" thick 8 1/2" long x 6 1/2" tall

Misc
(3) #10 - 3" FH wood screws
(4) #8 - 1.25" FH wood screw
(4) 3/8" washers
(2) #10 SAE washers
(10) #8 2" FH woodscrews
(1) Polymerized Tung Oil, 250ml $17.50 Polymerized Tung Oil - Lee Valley Tools


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## NoChatter (Dec 4, 2010)

Looks like your next project will building an out feed table,unless I missed something.Cool sled.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I actually have a mobile set of rollers I use. I need the space when I use my Thickness Planer.

Buy Craftex Flexible Roller Stand B2664 From Busy Bee Tools


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> This thread should be nominated for something. Real good read ... Thanks for the effort.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hi, Patrick.

I agreed with you!!!!


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