# Glues



## pagedeveloper (Sep 17, 2014)

So there are sooooo many different types of Glue out on the market. What is a good one to use for bowls?? Well not so much bowls that are turned, but ones that are used with a router..

I am looking to make more of a plate then a bowl. My mom loves pumpkins and I was going to put a red wood, and a light tan wood together. Glue it, and then route out the inside to make it look like a pumpkin. 

So the question is more of what kind of glue would you use?? The items will not be wet, it will be for candy in paper. It will need to be cleaned also.. 

Titebond III Waterproof Glue I understand is water proof

System Three Epoxy Resin 

System Three T88 Epoxy

So they all say that they are good, but how do you know what would be the best.. Is there a way of saying, ok for this project you use Epoxy, and that one you Resin, and maybe this one you a glue...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Any one of them will work. If you only plan on a damp wipe then almost any woodworking glue will work. Most of them have a level of water resistance. One thing to consider is that a dark glue like TB3 can leave a visible glue line with light coloured woods. If you are using dark wood on either side then it won't matter.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Any one of them will work. If you only plan on a damp wipe then almost any woodworking glue will work. Most of them have a level of water resistance. One thing to consider is that a dark glue like TB3 can leave a visible glue line with light coloured woods. If you are using dark wood on either side then it won't matter.


This to That (Glue Advice)


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## pagedeveloper (Sep 17, 2014)

So it sounds like I will need to find out about the (any Glue) that I am using, based on what project that I am working on.. OK.. that is why I see so many YouTube guys with a large amount of glue bottles. Now, that makes some more sense....

Thank you everyone...


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## rrrun (Jun 17, 2014)

I have used Titebond III to make many routed bowls that have been used exactly like the pumpkin project you are working on. The glue is perfect for you. 

Nice open time, and after it's dry, the bond is stronger than the wood that you're joining.

Titebond III is the only glue I use for the heritage-quality cutting boards that I make and sell.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Titebond 3 is a very good glue and I usually keep some around. I don't use it for everything. Different jobs have different requirements and priorities. One of my must have glues is Melamine glue which wasn't on the list Stick posted. For edge gluing any panel board it is unsurpassed. The edge of panel boards suck up glue like a sponge and the joints starve for glue but the Melamine glue stays put better and has very good holding power. Where you need invisible joints Weldbond is hard to beat. For applications that I need to remove or where I have to completely remove any traces of the glue I use Lee Valley's fish glue. It stays water soluble forever. I keep some epoxy or polyurethane around for the rare glue ups that need it but the fact is that very few woodworking projects need it. I've tried using glue on outdoor projects and it's a waste of time. The wood always fails everywhere except the glue line so I only use mechanical fasteners for outdoor projects now.


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## Garyk (Dec 29, 2011)

For my turned bowls I use Titebond II or III depending on the color of the woods. II for lighter and III for darker projects. Both are easy to work with, sand easily and both have very few downsides. They are pretty much the standard in most shops that I have visited.


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## Bodger96 (Mar 18, 2014)

Any Glue joint done *correctly* should be stronger than the wood fibres around it. Part of the decision is about cost. Part is what you are building. When cost is not an issue I would use epoxy. I have used regular yellow carpenters glue with lot of success and no failures for similar projects. 

Regards Bob


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

The only time I tried turning was in high school wood shop. You guys have my admiration.

Another consideration would be if you want the glued joint to be water proof/resistant... And the density, hardness of the resulting glue joint. If hard (like some epoxies), then it tends to affect how a chisel cuts trough it right? Then I would get a ridge where that joint was... so I had to sand to blend it better. (But, again, that was many years ago.)


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

MAFoElffen said:


> The only time I tried turning was in high school wood shop. You guys have my admiration.
> 
> Another consideration would be if you want the glued joint to be water proof/resistant... And the density, hardness of the resulting glue joint. If hard (like some epoxies), then it tends to affect how a chisel cuts trough it right? Then I would get a ridge where that joint was... so I had to sand to blend it better. (But, again, that was many years ago.)


epoxies tend to go brittle over time....
PVA can plasticize and creep if you leave the project in the sun or run it thru the dishwasher...
hot hide glue then???


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I've found that the strongest bonds are the ones where the glue will give a little before it shears. Like Stick says, epoxies go brittle which means a hard shock can shear them. Hot hide glue is like a plastic as is Weldbond. TB3 and the yellow glues are a little stiffer but still have a little give. Creep can be a problem where the joint is under continuous stress (like bent laminations) or subjected to high heat. As I've already said, the waterproofness of a glue is rarely an issue. Even with a cutting board, unless you leave it for a few minutes immersed in a sink full of water it likely won't make a difference which glue you use. I wipe my cutting boards down with a dishcloth and soapy water and then rinse under a running tap and they hold up just fine.


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