# DeWalt DW615 Router is dead



## fbakkum (Feb 17, 2014)

I'm a newbee on this formum and I hope someone can help me.

Today I did some small routing work with my DeWalt DW615-QS Type 4 and after two minutes I finished one part. I switched off the machine. I wanted to start with the second part, but my router did not start after switching on. 

10 minutes later, still no life in the router. One hour later, no response.

The website of the manufacturer TheWalt only gives a partlist and a technical drawing with the numbered part items (see attachment). 

What could be the problem?

On the drawing I see in a seperate box with part item no. 8 being the suppressor which consist of a capacitor and two yellow wires. Could the capacitor being broken?


Frank


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Frank, I'm sure someone will come along with some advice.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Frank, welcome to the router forums
Sorry to hear you are having a problem, not to be facetious but did you check the outlet,cord plug and the cord to make sure you're still getting juice then check the switch


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Welcome to the forum, Frank.

Several years ago I got my second serious power tool, a circular saw. I turned it on and started a cut. Then it stopped. I did all the things suggested above, then called the support line. Because I needed the cut before I could move to my router, I did not try my router. Due to my circumstancesI did not try any woodworking for several days. When I did, I first tried my router. It would not turn on. By this time I had posed the issue to the members of this forum. Somehow I now thought to check the circuit breaker. It had tripped, and there was nothing else on that circuit so no one had noticed. It took several washings to get the egg off my face!


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## neville9999 (Jul 22, 2010)

If the wind don't blow and the Router don't go, then there is a total break in the power supply so first check everything, use a tool that is known to work in the outlet, test the router in a power outlet that does work, look at the cable for damage that could be a broken wire, if the router does not work in an outlet that does work and you are not able to check it further yourself then it is time to take it to the Router Doctor, is it still under warranty? N


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

fbakkum said:


> I'm a newbee on this formum and I hope someone can help me.
> 
> Today I did some small routing work with my DeWalt DW615-QS Type 4 and after two minutes I finished one part. I switched off the machine. I wanted to start with the second part, but my router did not start after switching on.
> 
> ...


did you un plug the router and than turn the shaft?? try that their may be a dead spot on the arature ? and maybe use you hand and rap the end where the cord goes in ? if that doesn't work than , i guess check the outlet ect. if you are elect. inclined you could take the unit apart and trouble shot it , other wise take to a repair shop ?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Frank, after you have tested the power source by plugging something else into what ever your router is plugged into (extension cord, outlet) the first thing to do is unplug the router and see if the spindle turns easily. If it does not, check the brushes. If it does check the switch. After these the most likely failure is the soft start/speed control module.


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## fbakkum (Feb 17, 2014)

Thank you all for your reactions. Yesterday I couldn't reply because it was my birthday.
Yes I checked all the logical problem solutions like outlet, power cord, power plug, rotating the shaft/spindle, etc. I even used a voltmeter to check various components, not being bothered by any knowledge.

My brother took it to a repair service with my check list. Warranty period is over, fingers crossed.


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

If it has a soft start or variable speed I would check there first. They can be wired around for testing or just left off. If the "suppressor" is a capacitor it can be checked. If is truely a suppessor then it is probably there to control interference noise. Again it is not necessary. Good luck with the DeWalt repair shop. The one here in St. Louis is pretty expensive.


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## mailee (Nov 11, 2005)

I have had this problem before on my Elu and just recently with my Trend version. In my case I found that it was the dust in the speed controller. I blew out the small speed wheel with an airline and it did the trick. there doesn't seem to be any way into the speed controller as it is a sealed unit but the air seems to have managed to get into the pot and blow out the dust. HTH.


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## fbakkum (Feb 17, 2014)

Thank you Clouseau and Mailee for your suggestions. The repair centre, via the seller (not knowing if it is an official DeWalt service centre), stated that the router couldn't be repaired that easily because the "anchor" is broken. Ik have serious doubts about this statement, because I have looked inside and I didn't observe any broken parts. Besides, the technical parts drawing doesn't mention an "anchor" at all. Are they trying to sell me an urban legend in the hope to sell me a new router?? Well, if the Dewalt company is also reading this message, they should be concerned, at least if they are really an adult professional company.

Any how, I will check the speed control unit again and try to clean it under high air presure, in the hope that it help, as Mailee sugested.


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

Is there a page two to the diagram? Can you check for continuity accross the plug if you put jumpers around the speed control and the capacitor with the switch on? If is the speed control it is expensive (at least on the type 4) and probably not replacing. It might run at full speed if all of the control stuff (technical term for speed control modul and other components) bypassed. If you want speed control you could then add an inline aftermarket control. 
If you look here http://www.routerforums.com/porter-cable/19050-parts-wiring-pc-7538-a.html and study the electrical diagram at the bottom, you will see a triac. If you note the two black wires can be cut after the switch and wired together and the white wire from the triac can be removed from the wire nut. That would take the triac out of the circuit. Yours probably has a similar circuit. Bottom line is your black wire has to go to one brush after going through the switch and the white wire has to go to the other brush. Hooked up this way and with the switch on you should get continuity accross the plug.
If you try it used power, I would run it through a power strip with a built in breaker and the router firmly clamped to a bench. IT WILL TORQUE.

Dan Coleman


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