# finish for western red cedar



## 59405 (May 15, 2011)

Finishing is my least favorite activity. Can anyone suggest an easy, less than glossy finish for some western red cedar finger joint boxes?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

One of the easiest finishes is Minwax wipe on poly but you don't get a very thick film by wiping so you may need quite a few coats on something as porous as red cedar. But it is easy. Take an old tee shirt and dip and wipe. No clean up after.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Have you thought about a Scandinavian Oil finish?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I have used the Behr brand of that on cedar and it works very well but doesn't offer any physical protection, but then the wipe on poly isn't going to offer much either.


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## 59405 (May 15, 2011)

Thanks for all of the suggestions for finishes. I think I'll go the Danish Oil route because these boxes will simply be decorative mementos and probably not used at all. Jack G.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Red Cedar is very porous. Being such, it will take a lot of stain and sealer... but as it does, it will not be consistent.

If you first go mix up a 50/50 of pre-mixed shellac and thinner (to make a DIY sealcoat). Apply it on and and let dry. It will soak in to just below the surface... then as it dries it will seal "there." It will then take stain and finish, but requiring less and be more even and consistent. A sealcoat made from alcohol based shellac, thinned with alcohol, is going to be completely dry in about 2-4 hours.

Otherwise, if you go just with an oil finish like you said you were, I would do one coat... Then wait 2 days before applying the second coat (to do the same kind of thing). Otherwise, with each coat it will keep soaking in and turn out splotchy.


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## 59405 (May 15, 2011)

That last sounds very good. I'll try it and many thanks. JDG


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