# brass set up bars?



## awoodnut (May 2, 2009)

Looking at brass setup bars. I see sets from 4 to 6 bars and 2 1/2 or 4 inch bars. 

Any thoughts on what is the most usefull.

Hartville tools has 2 1/2 or 4 inch 5 piece sets for 7.18 or 10.38. Has anyone had any experience with Hartville Tool?


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hartville Tool is an excellent place to buy from. I have been doing business with them for several years and have always been pleased with the merchandise and service. 

Hint: Put the words "woodnet" in the comments sections of your order and get 15% off. :happy:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I would suggest you buy your brass setup bars from the hardware store/machine supply outlet ,it comes in 12" long, it's called brass key stock the norm..and unlike the bar sets you can buy with only 4 or 5 in the set you can make your own easy from 1/16" to 1" plus you can cut them in half and you will have two sets and they will be 6" long, that's nice so the will fit over any router plate hole..


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awoodnut said:


> Looking at brass setup bars. I see sets from 4 to 6 bars and 2 1/2 or 4 inch bars.
> 
> Any thoughts on what is the most usefull.
> 
> Hartville tools has 2 1/2 or 4 inch 5 piece sets for 7.18 or 10.38. Has anyone had any experience with Hartville Tool?


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

You know BJ I sure could have saved a lot of money and other expense had I found this forum before I did!! I have the store bought ones, but like your idea better. 

You mentioned in another thread that it is good to have the router table somewhat higher than the table saw. Right now I use mine as a run out for the table saw, but in the future I may make another one at the height you suggest. Thanks for that bit of information. What I would do is build a total new one keeping the old for the run out, workbench and router table for when needed.
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bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> I would suggest you buy your brass setup bars from the hardware store/machine supply outlet ,it comes in 12" long, it's called brass key stock the norm..and unlike the bar sets you can buy with only 4 or 5 in the set you can make your own easy from 1/16" to 1" plus you can cut them in half and you will have two sets and they will be 6" long, that's nice so the will fit over any router plate hole..
> 
> ...


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

you can use drill bit's if you don't have the bars yet Just not as good as bars tho


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> I would suggest you buy your brass setup bars from the hardware store/machine supply outlet ,it comes in 12" long, it's called brass key stock the norm..and unlike the bar sets you can buy with only 4 or 5 in the set you can make your own easy from 1/16" to 1" plus you can cut them in half and you will have two sets and they will be 6" long, that's nice so the will fit over any router plate hole..
> 
> ...


Great idea, very resourceful :yes2:. I've always seen the bars available in brass. Is there any particular reason they couldn't be steel? The only reason I can imagine is that brass won't nick your cutting edges as readily as steel. This would take a lot of hard contact. The steel key stock is a lot cheaper from my local vendor.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Lance

Steel is a lot cheaper but bits are not ,,brass is soft so to speak and any time the steel strikes steel one needs to give and because the carb.cutters are hard it will break 1st.but if you hit the steel with brass, it will take the blow or to soften the blow,,no one wants to hit a harden cutter but it just happens now and then..one little nick in the bit and it's toast..


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westend said:


> Great idea, very resourceful :yes2:. I've always seen the bars available in brass. Is there any particular reason they couldn't be steel? The only reason I can imagine is that brass won't nick your cutting edges as readily as steel. This would take a lot of hard contact. The steel key stock is a lot cheaper from my local vendor.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Lance
> 
> Steel is a lot cheaper but bits are not ,,brass is soft so to speak and any time the steel strikes steel one needs to give and because the carb.cutters are hard it will break 1st.but if you hit the steel with brass, it will take the blow or to soften the blow,,no one wants to hit a harden cutter but it just happens now and then..one little nick in the bit and it's toast..
> 
> ...


I gotcha, I thought that was probably it. The savings using steel bars wouldn't buy some bits, now that I think about it. I'm going to order the brass set from a vendor. 
I'm thinking brass key stock is one of those things like firewood, when I don't need any, folks are pushing logs into my yard, when I need some, there isn't a tree down for miles. Eventually, it'll come around.

Update: It's 90+ degrees, here, today. The Brother-in-law just called. Come and get it, free firewood to load. Yikes, 3 hrs. and 18 minutes since I posted that above.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Excellent question Lance. Just this past Saturday I watched the "WoodSmith Shop" show on PBS and cringed when I saw one of the "Pro's" tapping the carbide on a bit with a steel straight edge to make an adjustment. Bit manufacturers must love this guy! Brass is the smart way to go,


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## rickalvi (Apr 30, 2009)

I use a digital caliper and go down to the hardware store and pick the exact thickness piece of aluminum stock. At HD they have all that stuff in one section 1/4", 1/8", 3/8" etc. The digital caliper is accurate within 1/1000" so that's accurate enough.


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## Belg (Nov 2, 2011)

rickalvi said:


> I use a digital caliper and go down to the hardware store and pick the exact thickness piece of aluminum stock. At HD they have all that stuff in one section 1/4", 1/8", 3/8" etc. The digital caliper is accurate within 1/1000" so that's accurate enough.


I realize this is an old thread, but am wondering how you set something to 1/1000" of an inch using the calipers? Floating the end over the edge of the blade and then extending that little tiny bar seems like anything but precise??
Also anyone find a good source for those 12" brass bars mentioned above at a reasonable price?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

take the KISS/MISS route...
Trend has the solution...
there are better bars if you really want to use them...
*From Kreg...*
.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I do have a set of set-up bars but find that twist drills are more useful, mine go up in 0.5mm.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I have and love using setup bars. My set only goes up to half an inch, but you can combine them. I do have my eye on a longer set, which would be nice to have.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Yes, set up bars are useful. I have 2 sets (don't know why?)...

Use them for basic height and width settings,,,,


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Belg said:


> I realize this is an old thread, but am wondering how you set something to 1/1000" of an inch using the calipers? Floating the end over the edge of the blade and then extending that little tiny bar seems like anything but precise??
> Also anyone find a good source for those 12" brass bars mentioned above at a reasonable price?



The intent is to take the calipers with you and measure the stock when buying the aluminum stuff from the Big Box store...just to make sure you're getting what you want.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

I have sets in brass that are 1" thru 6" long and a couple in 12" length. I like using the 6" and 12" as they span a greater distance. I will admit to some marks and scratches on them from my metal days...good enough reason to go with brass rather than cold hard steel. Square stock is much better as you can get them closer to the face of the cutter and use your fingers to sense the match rather than just your eyes. Fingerboards from above will ensure the cut is where it was measured.


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## Belg (Nov 2, 2011)

DesertRatTom said:


> I have and love using setup bars. My set only goes up to half an inch, but you can combine them. I do have my eye on a longer set, which would be nice to have.


Tom, care to share where your looking at the longer set?


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Pat,

Go to your nearest Industrial Supplier like Fastenal, Grainger, McMaster, Johnstone Supply, or WT Tool, etc or a Power Transmission parts shop and ask for brass key stock in the sizes that you want. The standard length is 12" and square with accurate dimensions, but take a precision caliper or micrometer to double check their sizes before you buy. You will find them at one of these places in 12" lengths far cheaper than the short pieces from woodworking supply shops. Cut them to length if you wish, and either keep them in several sizes, or sell what you don't want to another woodworker.

Charley


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Why, with woodwork would anyone need to use a micrometer, considering that wood moves with the weather. I also don't understand how long, like 12" setup bars are used. Some shots will be appreciated.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I suggested a precision caliper or micrometer to measure the key stock before buying, to assure that they are selling accurate pieces. They carry many sizes in both metric and imperial. What may look like 1/8 or 1/4", etc. may not actually be when measured. A micrometer is a metal workers tool, and for these key pieces you want them to be withing a couple of thousandths of the nominal sizes because you will be using them as gauges to get accurate woodworking results. He might have a micrometer and not have precision caliper. Either one will work for this need. He might even be able to borrow one from the counter person, but I like to go prepared and have my measuring tools with me. I would likely have my Wixey digital caliper with me if I was shopping for key stock. I do have calipers, but rarely use them any more, except when metal working.

Charley


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

The attached chart shows the tolerances (and costs) for brass keystock as sold by McMaster-Carr - gets a little pricey in the larger sizes, but you really don't need the 1" and larger, just buy a nice 1"-2"-3" block (a reasonable pair is cheaper than the 1" keystock) and stack it with the appropriate keystock to get the required gauge size. And you can lower the cost by splitting the order with a buddy (or two, depending on whether you go for 4" or 6" lengths). Not sure though how happy a vendor might be with the idea of a customer standing there measuring their inventory and hand-picking the order - kind of like going through a stack at the lumber yard.


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