# Craftsman 315.17370 Control Cable



## bgreenen (Aug 19, 2019)

I have a Craftsman 315.17370. The threaded plastic end of the Control Cable (part #: 2-606580-01) broke where it enters the motor housing. 

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement part or have any ideas as to how I can try to fix it? It's a workhorse and everything else on it is pretty much bullet proof.

I appreciate the help! --Brian


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I looked here (https://www.ereplacementparts.com/craftsman-31517370-router-parts-c-158286_170726_170863.html) for the part but nothing looked like it and no diagram. I'm not sure what it does. There are very few critical parts for old Sears routers. The 315. means it was made by Ryobi but that probably won't help.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Geez, bgreenen, looks like your dog's been chewing on it! 
Seriously though, welcome; and on your question, perhaps time to replace the router. You're going to be spending time and money trying to resuscitate a tool whose had it's day. In the meantime you're without the router.
Personally I'd have already decided on my _new_ router. The old Craftsman would be in the recycling bin.

My Arithmetic might be wrong but if you've had it for 20yrs it's cost you $.02 a day!


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

The old router could be used as a door stop or boat anchor. Your dilemma is typical of Sears/Craftsman products. Yep, time to buy a new router as the old one has served its time.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

If it has been reliable and still in good working order I'd look under Ryobi and see if they have a replacement cable. It may be worth looking for another that could be used for parts. Some tools have been workhorses and are extremely hard to part with, I get that so going the extra mile to make sure there are no replacement parts is just worth it. If you have no luck now I'd still put it aside even if you replace with a new model and keep an eye out just in case a used one comes up. 

And welcome to the forum Brian. Hopefully there will some other responses later that may prove helpful or at least get you some additional information.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"If you have no luck now I'd still put it aside ..."
-Steve

"I suspect the professor is onto something. The larger the space the more room for more junk and the less the urge is to get rid of things as you don't need the room .......yet."
-Steve

LOl!


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Welcome to the Router Forums.

here is another discussion of the same cable https://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/63593-part-needed.html


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## br1896 (Apr 17, 2011)

Try searpartsdirect. I put in your model and it showed up but that doesn’t guarantee they’ll have the part.


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## wingless (Mar 20, 2019)

Welcome to the forum.

One option would be to hardwire the router to run when power is applied, then mount this onto a router table w/ it's own front panel power switch, like shown in my router table topic. (Note, not possible for me to post a link until my post count exceeds 10, but it is in the Table-Mounted Routing forum.)

Another option is to contact a custom cable fabrication company. They make parts to-order, w/ specific ends and length that would work as a replacement for your application. The cost will be high, but those costs might be defrayed to have multiple copies fabricated, then sell those as replacement parts on-line for users in the same boat.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

One thing to remember before spending money repairing a Sears router is that it will only be worth about $20 even if it runs. And if you need a collet for it there probably isn't one available anywhere. We probably get a dozen people a year looking for them and they have exhausted every other possibility already in many cases.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

wingless said:


> Welcome to the forum.
> 
> One option would be to hardwire the router to run when power is applied, then mount this onto a router table w/ it's own front panel power switch, like shown in my router table topic. (Note, not possible for me to post a link until my post count exceeds 10, but it is in the Table-Mounted Routing forum.)
> 
> Another option is to contact a custom cable fabrication company. They make parts to-order, w/ specific ends and length that would work as a replacement for your application. The cost will be high, but those costs might be defrayed to have multiple copies fabricated, then sell those as replacement parts on-line for users in the same boat.


Or just junk it and buy a new router. Seriously? Why would you invest time, money, and energy in something that's well past it's 'Best Before Date'.
This is where the 'flogging a dead horse' expression comes from.
Not being cruel here; just trying to inject a dose of reality.
(OK...enough cliches.)


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## LeftFinger (Mar 21, 2019)

Or put a switch on and ditch the cable


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Knothead47 said:


> The old router could be used as a door stop or boat anchor. Your dilemma is typical of Sears/Craftsman products. Yep, time to buy a new router as the old one has served its time.


Perhaps typical... depends on the product! That said, that router is what? 40+ years old. I am pretty sure that cable has not been available for a very long time.


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## bgreenen (Aug 19, 2019)

I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I took the easy route and simply epoxied the piece onto the housing. An inelegant kluge, I know, but it only took a couple of minutes and works like new.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Good job...but you still need a new router.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Good job...but you still need a new router.


ditto..


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

DaninVan said:


> Good job...but you still need a new router.



Yup!!


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## wingless (Mar 20, 2019)

bgreenen said:


> I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I took the easy route and simply epoxied the piece onto the housing. An inelegant kluge, I know, but it only took a couple of minutes and works like new.


 Good job. Enjoy using your repaired router.


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## terry.mottley (16 d ago)

After reading your posts and finding a solution to my problem I removed the router switch assembly for 315*1730 and am using an on off switch on the table. So if this can help someone please let me know. I will send a picture of the assembly. [email protected]


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum @terry.mottley


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