# File for a 1911



## OCEdesigns (Jan 31, 2019)

I have searched here and Google and not really finding what I'm looking for. I have a nice 1911 that I want to make a display case for. I want to hold the gun in an inlay lined with felt and also have a magazine with it. What is the best way to get the right dimensions for the inlay? I'm sure there is an easy way to get it just right without trial and error but being new to this I'm probably over thinking it! I started to do a trace of a bitmap photo but the dimensions seemed to be off as I was cleaning up the fine details I won't be needing.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

A digital drawing pad would allow you to trace the outline wouldn't it? You'd have to tell your cut file how deep.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Seems to me that you could lay the pistol and magazine out as you want them to show, then carefully trace around each. This could then be transferred using carbon paper to a thick piece of the same material with which you make the overall box. Double or triple check for size and accuray of the outline. Then trim it with a plunge router, just oversized enough to allow for the felt. Drop this into your finished box and you have a nice display.

You could using flocking for the lining, or felt. I would also consider drilling at least two holes on each side of the grip so you can get it out of the case without having to grab the trigger to lift it out.


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## MoHawk (Dec 8, 2013)

I have a .dxf file of a 1911 I used to make a display box. You may need to scale it to fit. I will try to message it to you.


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## jpbldr (Feb 17, 2018)

Here is how I have done a handful of foam cutouts for cases.

I made a template using Fusion360. The template has parameters for length and height of the slide, overall length and height, grip angle, etc. That covers the basics for most autos. Things like the trigger guard and any unique profile of the grip, etc have to be added as appropriate, and with however much detail you want. I will say I arrived at this method after several attempts trying to capture every last detail of the shape. In the end less turned out to be more. On odd shaped protrusions like some sights or hammer, I tend to just cut a relief oversized rather than match it exactly.

So far all the pieces I've done were from the typical black or grey foam that comes with many cases. I have also done some tests in more rigid EVA foam. The EVA machines very nicely, and may be something that would work well for what you're trying to do.

Here's a screen shot of the template I made in Fusion. I will find some pics of the finished pieces also. 


Brian


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

That's one of the most powerful features of Fusion 360, like Brian said. The ability to have one model and just modify the parameters means you can fit just about anything without redrawing. I'd love to see some pictures of the finished cases, too, Brian.

David


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

OCEdesigns said:


> I have searched here and Google and not really finding what I'm looking for. I have a nice 1911 that I want to make a display case for. I want to hold the gun in an inlay lined with felt and also have a magazine with it. What is the best way to get the right dimensions for the inlay? I'm sure there is an easy way to get it just right without trial and error but being new to this I'm probably over thinking it! I started to do a trace of a bitmap photo but the dimensions seemed to be off as I was cleaning up the fine details I won't be needing.


It is best not to use pictures off the web to fit measurements to or fit vectors to. The problem, these pictures might be taken at a slight angle so your vectors could be off enough then parts might not fit.

Best thing is if you can find vector files from a manufacturer or from someone that has already created a file. Next best way is to have the actual item and take measurements from there.

This is just for items that need to fit with other items well. If the project is something like a sign to take up space on a wall then less than perfect pictures will work just fine.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

DesertRatTom said:


> Seems to me that you could lay the pistol and magazine out as you want them to show, then carefully trace around each.


Yes, that worked nicely when I did it.


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## OCEdesigns (Jan 31, 2019)

Thanks for all the replies and the PM! 
It looks like I was really over thinking how to do this. Now I have plenty of options. I'll probably do a few display cases now if it is this easy! LOL I guess this is definitely part of the learning curve with this machine and the capabilities of the software.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

FWIW, open display of firearms is an invitation to thieves. A casual remark, word gets out, the wrong people hear and they are gone. Speaking from experience.


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## jpbldr (Feb 17, 2018)

MEBCWD said:


> It is best not to use pictures off the web to fit measurements to or fit vectors to. The problem, these pictures might be taken at a slight angle so your vectors could be off enough then parts might not fit.



This! is exactly what I ran into when trying to use images, even ones I took. Even an image taken square and centered has some parallax error.


Another thing I didn't mention, but you should do. Before cutting the pocket into your actual material, get some foam board from the dollar store to use as test patterns You can make several cuts on a single sheet to work out any issues with your template, and make adjustments to adjust how tight or loose fitting the result will be, before cutting the actual material you want to use

Brian


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

As for images , you may be more successful if you take a pic from a further distance and zoom up with its optics


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## jpbldr (Feb 17, 2018)

Tried that, it was better but still didn't work as well as I wanted. And then you are still left with manually tracing the image in CAD, which stacks up even more tolerance.


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## jpbldr (Feb 17, 2018)

My first successful result once I figured out the process.


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## jpbldr (Feb 17, 2018)

Knife case for some of my kids stuff. A lot easier:smile:


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## jpbldr (Feb 17, 2018)

Another one.


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## jpbldr (Feb 17, 2018)

Here's some tests using EVA. This cuts very clean. Probably more firm than one would want to use for a transport case, but I think it would work great for a display case. Maybe some allowance needed for whatever lining you use. You can see even at half depth the mag will stay in the pocket when turned upside down.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Those look really nice and functional, Brian. Good job!

Ok, some questions - what foam is the black and where did you get it? Same with the EVA, where did you get it? What feeds and speeds and bits did you use to cut these? I have a couple of projects where I need to do basically the same thing but haven't started looking yet for supplies.

David


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## TimPa (Jan 4, 2011)

jpbldr said:


> My first successful result once I figured out the process.


wow, how did you hold that foam down for machining?


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## jpbldr (Feb 17, 2018)

The black foam came from some packaging for a computer, but it is similar to the typical foam that comes in many hard cases for guns or other equipment. I believe it is a polyurethane type. The EVA is a yoga block:smile:

I would have to look at what I used for feeds. Tool was a 1/4" 2 flute low helix upcut. I don't know that that is best, its just the only 1/4" end mill I had at the time. Climb cutting left a rougher surface in test cuts, these were cut conventionally.

Material was held down using double face tape.


Brian


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## jpbldr (Feb 17, 2018)

Another note, the revolvers case had multiple layers of foam. It had a layer of pick and pluck, with a layer of solid below that and another solid in the lid. I put the pick and pluck in the bottom, and used the solid bottom layer for the cutout. This only required cutting the outside profile, rather than machining the whole pocket as in the others.


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## OCEdesigns (Jan 31, 2019)

jpbldr said:


> Another note, the revolvers case had multiple layers of foam. It had a layer of pick and pluck, with a layer of solid below that and another solid in the lid. I put the pick and pluck in the bottom, and used the solid bottom layer for the cutout. This only required cutting the outside profile, rather than machining the whole pocket as in the others.



Brian,
Thanks for adding these pictures and information! This really gives me some more ideas for this project and some others I have in mind!


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