# stuck router motor in base



## dwaine01 (Jul 27, 2012)

stuck router motor in base. any ideas on removal?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

More info would help, but I'm guessing that you have a screw thread adjustment system. You could try taking the clamp nut out of the base and spread the ears a bit with a wedge of some sort.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi N/a, What make model router do you have?


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## jody495 (Sep 11, 2011)

trying blowing compresed air all around base


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## michmags (Nov 25, 2011)

*Stuck Router Motor*



dwaine01 said:


> stuck router motor in base. any ideas on removal?


If you can move the motor at all, try using the depth adjustment to move it to the deepest depth possible. Blow out any sawdust with air or vacuum it out and then spray WD40 or similar penetrating oil between the base and the motor.
If the motor will not move, spray the WD40 and let it set overnight then tap the base with a hammer to break it loose. Try clamping a piece of round stock in the collet and suspend the router upside down supported by the baseplate. With a punch and hammer, tap the tip of the round stock to loosen.
Make sure all clamps are disengaged before starting any of these techniques.


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## smc (Dec 19, 2008)

I find that sometimes Arizona heat causes the motor to expand and it takes time to cool down to get the base off. Other times, it just takes a couple of taps on different sides.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

N/a must have found an answer elsewhere as he has not been back since July 30 and has not offered any further information....


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## Thelonious2monk (Jan 25, 2018)

Great advice. Did not think about using WD-40 - but it worked like a charm. Thanks


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Thelonious2monk said:


> Great advice. Did not think about using WD-40 - but it worked like a charm. Thanks


and hope you didn't any of that WD in the motor...
WD can be major detrimental to electric motors...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

T2M; great that it worked for you. Welcome to the Forums by the way.
Keep in mind that you haven't really solved the original problem, unless you dissembled the router and thoroughly cleaned up the mating parts. Using a wax (non-silicone type) to dress the surfaces rather than a lubricant will help with the issue in the future. What brand/model were you having trouble with?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

dry lube like Tri-Flow is good thing to use...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I agree with Stick, it has to be dry to the touch when it dries. Anything oily or still wet feeling or even waxy may attract and hold dust which could make it worse in the long run.


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## Thelonious2monk (Jan 25, 2018)

*Stuck motor*



Stick486 said:


> and hope you didn't any of that WD in the motor...
> WD can be major detrimental to electric motors...


Thanks. I was aware of that and was careful not to wet the motor. BTW I thought that heating the sleeve with a hair drier may also help, but did not try it.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Thelonious2monk said:


> Thanks. I was aware of that and was careful not to wet the motor. BTW I thought that heating the sleeve with a hair drier may also help, but did not try it.


good and the hair dryer before the WD works...
heating WD turns it into a sticky mess...
did you open the lock all the way by loosening the cam nut???


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

There have been a few people with the Sears routers that have the plastic ring which couldn't be moved and they used hairdryers to soften the ring and they were able to get theirs moving again. I don't know how long it took because none of them mentioned that.


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## Thelonious2monk (Jan 25, 2018)

Hi. I own the Makita RF1101 and i used it with the plunge base. The idea of rotating an aluminum body in aluminum shell is not the greatest thing in the world, as the friction coefficient of aluminum on aluminum is high and it always tends to get stuck. 
A possible reason for the problem is that I used the router extensively for a while and it got quite hot.

I have used this combination again since I managed to rescue the body from the base, but this time i thoroughly cleaned both parts from dust and debris.

Your idea of using wax to permanently lubricate this duo is very good - I'll try that.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"The idea of rotating an aluminum body in aluminum shell is not the greatest thing in the world,..."
-T2M
And yet, that's exactly what the geniuses in electrical component manufacturing did with Al. lamp holder shells and Al. bases on screw in light bulbs, instead of the always reliable-brass-on-brass.
Apply a bit of heat and/or dampness outdoors and you might as well have welded it (the Al. on Al.).
Even Al. on brass wasn't a huge issue.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Thelonious2monk said:


> Your idea of using wax to permanently lubricate this duo is very good - I'll try that.


or a dry lube such as TriFlow...


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