# How is Building Router Table Cost Effective?



## seabiscuit68 (Feb 22, 2013)

Hello - This is my first post on these forums and I am hoping for some advice on a router table.

I am building a custom cabinet and need to joint together some door frames. I'm using zebra wood for the door frames and am looking at doing a rail and stile joint for strength and a professional look. As you all know, those bit sets are 1/2" and my current router (that I received as a gift in college), is the old Ryobi setup that came with the router and table for $89.99, which only has the power / ability to route with 1/4" bits.

I am considering buying a new router, but to do the rail and stile route, I need a table. The holes in my Ryobi table (which, I understand isn't great) won't fit the new router, and I think this would be a good time to upgrade anyways.

Looking around on here, pretty much everyone suggests building their own table, or buying a table top and putting it on a cabinet that you make. You all say that building your own is cheaper and you get what you want (customized).

My question is this:
After doing some research, I can't see how you guys are building these cheaper than you can buy them. For example, if I just bought a nice top with insert, it would cost me $199 - $249 (Rockler, Kreg, etc). You can find them for less money ($100), but those don't include a fence. So you would then come back and say "make a fence" - well the wood cost, or, if you want it done right, the T-Track + parts to make a good fence would bring you close to the $200 mark total. And that is just the fence. Then you have to get feather-boards - and you are getting up to the $250 mark again.

So buying a top with fence and everything = $250
Buying just the top and building accessories = $250 + time

And then there is the option of just building it from scratch. Well some MDF and laminate cover + t-tracks + fence creation material + power switch = probably about $250

So making it from scratch = $250 + even more time

All that being said, does ANYONE on this forum actually own a "pre-made" router table like the Bosch RA1181 table? This includes everything (fence, featherboards, top, stand, etc) and is $180? Or what about the Bench Dog 40-001 - same deal for $250.

Does anyone on here go that route - or do you just build your own? What is the difference between building your own and buying one of these (or a different suggestion you have). Saves time, saves money, and I don't see much difference in the end result.

Thanks for the help and advice. There doesn't seem to be ONE good table to pick...just a whole lot of options that all get me to the same place for the same cash...

Also, a little more detail on what I want to do with it as I see this is asked a lot -

I don't mean to be mean - but come on - it's a router table. I want to stick a board in and have it come out the other side routed beautifully...I own a jointer so I don't need it for that.


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## seabiscuit68 (Feb 22, 2013)

I don't see an edit button - so I forgot to add in the "build it from scratch" the cost of a plate / insert, which is $60 - $ 100 alone


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## al m (Dec 13, 2012)

I guess some could argue building from scratch gives satisfaction,pride in workmanship and a set up that is custom to your needs and situation.I personally did not have time to build one and found a great deal on a used set up.I have since sold the stand and mounted the table on a roller tool cabnet that was on sale for about $25 more than the stand I sold.
personal preferance is what it boils down to.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I have Bosch RA1181 table. I lost my router table in a flood and wanted a table quick . I wanted the Rockler box joint jig which required a miter slot to secure. It was on sale at Lowes at the time for $160. I like the table very solid and portable.


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## seabiscuit68 (Feb 22, 2013)

roofner said:


> I have Bosch RA1181 table. I lost my router table in a flood and wanted a table quick . I wanted the Rockler box joint jig which required a miter slot to secure. It was on sale at Lowes at the time for $160. I like the table very solid and portable.


Would you suggest it? I feel in Woodworking you have to be motivated to build something. Especially when you are working full time and have a family. The time you have to work in the shop shouldn't be forced, and you shouldn't have to spend it working on something you don't really want to do.

I am looking at the Bosch table, but was hoping for a few impressions of it vs. some of the laminate tables. It looks like a bigger, fancier version of the Ryobi table I have (I like my ryobi table for what it is), but what is the advantage of the Rocklers / Kregs out there?


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Bill; I know where your concerns are coming from. In your situation I see your solution as searching on this forum for "Router Table" and find one in your price range that has good reviews. Do the same search for "Routers" and find the one that fits your needs and price range. Getting a router and router table like that turns your "Free Time" into "Shop Time" and gives you the ability with both time and tools to get the job done in a timely manner.

It sounds like you have a good project set up and I hope you enjoy completing it.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bill, if you want a table that will handle any task for a very reasonable price I highly recommend the Grizzly T10432. This table has everything you need in the way of features. Cost is about $130 plus shipping. If you elect to go with this you should order a couple extra mounting plates part # T10432047 at a cost of $13 each. You can mount other routers or convert the plates into handy jigs and they accept PC style guide bushings.

While I am a big fan of Bosch routers (see photo) I am not crazy about their tables. I prefer the RA1171 table to the RA1181. Sears has offered both of these tables wearing a Craftsman name tag for less money.

I do most of my routing with a Router Workshop table which is no longer available but you can get plans to build your own for $4 from Oak Park.

Next month Detroit area forum members will be testing 3+ hp routers using the Grizzly table and mounting plates.


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## seabiscuit68 (Feb 22, 2013)

Mike said:


> Bill, if you want a table that will handle any task for a very reasonable price I highly recommend the Grizzly T10432. This table has everything you need in the way of features. Cost is about $130 plus shipping. If you elect to go with this you should order a couple extra mounting plates part # T10432047 at a cost of $13 each. You can mount other routers or convert the plates into handy jigs and they accept PC style guide bushings.
> 
> While I am a big fan of Bosch routers (see photo) I am not crazy about their tables. I prefer the RA1171 table to the RA1181. Sears has offered both of these tables wearing a Craftsman name tag for less money.
> 
> ...


I'm just curious (because I see it a lot on these forums) - when you say you prefer one table over another - can you give specific reasons / examples?

I am having a hard time finding any information what what actually makes a table better. I just see people say, I prefer this one over that one, or I prefer a built one over a pre-made one, but no reasons why.


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## seabiscuit68 (Feb 22, 2013)

Also, what fences are you guys buying (or building) when you purchase just a top?


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

Hi Seabiscuit, 

This one is easy from my perspective. I have a router table build I did posted on here, just search my posts if you like, but it's completely built from scratch with the exception of the t-guide channels and hardware (screws, etc).

To be specific, I built from wood, laminate, plywood, MDF, Lexan, etc, everything! From the stand, wooden router lift, tabletop, fence, insert plate, eye-guard and fence, it's all homebuilt and for less than $80 with the t-tracks.

Mine is a full-size router table. The insert was based on I think Rockler's insert dimensions. I don't have insert-rings on it yet and will likely buy the Rockler insert with rings because they go on sale for $45 or less time to time.

It can be done, it's done all the time, just takes some patience, planning (took me two days to lay it all out in my head) and get after it.

Being this is a hobby for me, my "time" while worth money, wasn't so terrible to spend a weekend building it.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Hey Bill--i'm relatively new to woodworking and agonized over what to do about a table for a few months. Ended up buying an older Bench Dog kit w/cabinet that had never been assembled (even the bands around the boxes hadn't been opened. Spent $300 (plus buying my sister/BIL lunch for stopping in Branson, MO on their way from Tulsa to NW Indiana to pick it up.) Got a full package including 2 router plates and some "extra" stuff, so it was an excellent value for what i got.

Chose to purchase after doing the same math you are doing, and not having confidence in my skills. Now, 8 months later, i know i could have built the cabinet around the Grizzly table. I know i could have built the top myself and spaced the t-track a little farther away. And, i've taken off the Bench Dog fence (excellent fence, will be for sale soon) and replaced it with an older Incra Pro positioner and recently added their Wonder Fence. To do that i had to add an extension to the back of the table, and next up will be modifying to extend farther and full width.

Bottom line--as you do more routing work, you'll find things about a table that work better for YOU and what YOU do. No mfr makes one that fits everybody's style or primary projects. In building your own top, you'll be able to adapt it to fit the things the production tops don't (or you may modify your production top). It isn't necessarily about being cost-effective, though you're not too far off in thinking that making/buying may not save money. And...one of the side benefits in building a cabinet for a top like the Grizzly--you'll have an opportunity to hone skills before trying to build kitchen cabinets!! 

I'm not unhappy at all with the decision i made for ME. But...in looking back...i wish i had bought the Grizzly to get up and running on a table, then built a cabinet for that top. Then now--i'd have been ready to build my OWN top, with what i want. Then--i could have trimmed the Grizzly top to 27" x 24" and mounted it between the rails of Incra TS-LS i have coming for my table saw. Too late for all of that.

You'll not be able to get a single answer to your question, simply because there isn't one. I'm building a first class hobby shop, and i'll still be able to turn fine lumber into sawdust. But LOML smiles likes what i make her!!

earl


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## seabiscuit68 (Feb 22, 2013)

BRAVOGOLFTANGO said:


> Hi Seabiscuit,
> 
> This one is easy from my perspective. I have a router table build I did posted on here, just search my posts if you like, but it's completely built from scratch with the exception of the t-guide channels and hardware (screws, etc).
> 
> ...


What is the blue that you used for the insert? Where did you get it? How did you cut it to size?


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## MasterSplinter1 (Jan 27, 2013)

I see what your saying but i spent no where near thst amount and i built a lift also. The tables you mention dont come with a fence. Before i started my top i thiught about just buying one. None came with a fence and least exoensive one was 180 just for the fence.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Bill, sometimes woodworking is not "cost effective". If you ONLY look at that aspect, you will not enjoy woodworking. 

That said, I would buy the table suggested by MIKE. I am on my second of these tables and have no problems.


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## seabiscuit68 (Feb 22, 2013)

MasterSplinter1 said:


> I see what your saying but i spent no where near thst amount and i built a lift also. The tables you mention dont come with a fence. Before i started my top i thiught about just buying one. None came with a fence and least exoensive one was 180 just for the fence.


[www].rockler.com/product.cfm?page=31809&site=ROCKLER = $250 and comes with a fence

[www].woodcraft.com/product/2020284/22525/kreg-precision-benchtop-router-table.aspx]Buy Kreg Precision Benchtop Router Table at Woodcraft = $199 and comes with a fence


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## seabiscuit68 (Feb 22, 2013)

jw2170 said:


> Bill, sometimes woodworking is not "cost effective". If you ONLY look at that aspect, you will not enjoy woodworking.
> 
> That said, I would buy the table suggested by MIKE. I am on my second of these tables and have no problems.


Can you give any reasons why this is better than any other router table? I am just curious - everyone always just says buy this one over this one, but never give any reasons.

Thanks


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

seabiscuit68 said:


> Can you give any reasons why this is better than any other router table? I am just curious - everyone always just says buy this one over this one, but never give any reasons.
> 
> Thanks


Bill, do not try and read too deeply into the information given.

A number of the members are used to using their current tools and base their personal opinion on their use and satisfaction with what they have. There is no definitive answer as everyones criteria is different.

If some on says "X" is horrible, than you may need to find their reasons.

I did not say it was "better"........that is you take on the response.

This is just my personal opinion as I have had 2 of these tables over the years. They are a 'clone' table sold under a number of brands here and in the US. In Australia, they are >$200, but that is another story.

I like them as:

1. They are reasonable in cost.
2. They have all that I require in a basic router table. (My other table is an Oak park table).
3. I am not paying $$$ for a _brand name_ with all the bells and whistles which I do not need.

I could ask you this. What car do you drive and why is it better than every other car on the market? ( A rhetorical question, I don't care what car you drive). The same principle applies. A degree of personal choice is used.

Gary Rogowski, in his DVD, uses a piece of melamine coated chipboard as a router table. That could be very cost effective.

A basic table is all you need to do rail and style joinery. I would be spending more time in obtaining the "right' rail and style set. You cannot use your jointer for rail and style.......


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

this table cost under $50 all together, insert plates an all.

that is pretty cost effective, if you ask me.

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/38644-router-table-build.html


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

@seabiscuit - in the time you have spent looking, you could have built your own router table top...something like mine.

Two layers of 3/4 MDF with a Formica surface. The router plate is a Rockler Group A model that my Bosch 1617 fits. Nothing really fancy but it works well for me.

Note that in this case, I have it clamped to my workbench.


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## billg71 (Mar 25, 2011)

seabiscuit68 said:


> Hello - This is my first post on these forums and I am hoping for some advice on a router table.
> 
> I am building a custom cabinet and need to joint together some door frames. I'm using zebra wood for the door frames and am looking at doing a rail and stile joint for strength and a professional look. As you all know, those bit sets are 1/2" and my current router (that I received as a gift in college), is the old Ryobi setup that came with the router and table for $89.99, which only has the power / ability to route with 1/4" bits.
> 
> ...


Bill,

Ignore the bells and whistles and get back to basics: what is a router table? Answer in its most essential form is a flat surface that holds a router underneath. Ignoring surface-ground granite and cast iron, the flattest surface available to the average woodworker is a simple piece of MDF.

Drill holes in it to accommodate your router base, pick up some screws long enough to bolt through, drill a hole for the bit and you're done. Set it onto a couple of closely spaced sawhorses to keep it from sagging and you have a router table. If your floor and support system are level or you can shim the top to level on all 4 corners you now have a table top that's as good or probably better than anything you can buy be it laminate-coated MDF, phenolic, plywood or cast iron. Assuming you have shim stock, sawhorses or a bench to clamp it to and a couple of pieces of scrap for legs you're out what, maybe $10 for the MDF?

Now you need a fence, back to basics again. A fence for a router table is basically a straight length of material with a recess cut into it to accommodate the bit and the edge square to the surface that faces the router table top. You said you have a jointer, assuming you have a drill bit or hole saw big enough to cut the recess for the bit you're out another $3 for an 8' 2x4. Or maybe you have some scrap lying around or some MDF left over from the table and you're out $0.

So now you're in for maybe $15 including screws, an hour or so of your time putting it all together and you have something you can _"stick a board in and have it come out the other side routed beautifully"_. I'm assuming you have two clamps for the fence.

You can make your crosscut sled for the stiles from a couple pieces of MDF and a couple of toggle clamps, you don't need miter gauges and fancy track extrusions. Square is square, you can spend however much you want to get there but if you have the capability to put 2 edges square on a $1 piece of scrap MDF it's just as good as a $200 miter gauge. Add another scrap for a fence and a couple of toggle clamps and you have a perfectly serviceable crosscut sled for cutting the stiles.

How's that for cost effective?

HTH, Bill


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## Ray Y (Jan 10, 2012)

Mike mentions the Grizzly table and it has been mentioned many times on this forum. I have 3 router tables. Two shop built and one Grizzly. You can't make your own Grizzly-level table for the same money. I bought 5 extra mounting plates (the best deal available by far) and instead of changing bits, I change routers! Install a plywood shelf at the bottom and locking casters and you will have a stiff set-up and mobility too.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bill, here is my "why" list. As mentioned a router table needs to be flat. Your material should slide smoothly over it. Being durable is a very big plus. A fence can be in any position on the table since the bit is round. Clamping your accessories in place gives unlimited placement, this can be important when working on complex shapes. The table should be big enough to support your work. Dust collection saves a lot of time on clean up and keeps your lungs healthy. Having on board storage for bits you will be using as well as template guides saves time hunting around the shop.

These reasons led me to choose the Router Workshop table and I love it. Most of my routing is done with this table. Building your own is easy and with the plans costing just $4 not expensive. The Grizzly table includes everything you need and one thing you don't... a miter slot. Some people prefer using a miter slot so it is all good. Next month Detroit area forum members will be doing comparison testing on the 3+ hp routers which will be mounted on Grizzly plates and installed in the Grizzly table or a Router Workshop style table. If you are not in a rush you will see for yourself in the photos how these tables work. Judge for yourself what is important to you.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I have more money than time, so I bought the Rockler setup on sale, including the FX lift. I prefer to use my shop time for making things, although my first learning projects were mainly tool stands to replace the space eating tables I'd bought to save a little money. The shop stands I replaced had angled legs and ate up a couple of sqft more than the home built stands. I like the rockler setup (Top, table, fence, lift, dust collection) because it is extremely solid, conserves space, is easy to keep clean (vacuum fits under open stand). That router table and the table saw are the only stands not on wheels. I had a medium size portable table, but sold it because the top's small size was annoying when trying to keep longer stock lined up properly.


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## Garfman (Feb 22, 2013)

*Preferences*



al m said:


> I guess some could argue building from scratch gives satisfaction,pride in workmanship and a set up that is custom to your needs and situation.I personally did not have time to build one and found a great deal on a used set up. personal preferance is what it boils down to.


I too have small children, etc. I limit my evening time in the shop to an hour after the kids go to bed. 
I find that building something also increases my skill level. It's a great idea to buy a used set up, so you can get working. I'm still in the pen-and-paper stage of my router table build. Very rarely is a self- build cheaper than store bought even at full price.

You may find that you have to build your own table to meet your needs. When the time and ideas are right the right router table will find you.


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## Bradleytavares (Feb 25, 2012)

Mine came from Rockler ten years ago and still real happy with it. I can't build most tools or accessories for what I can buy them for. It seems that factory made items have lots of accessories and options available that are made for the table/other. My time is valuable so this is the option I take.


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## Thrifty Tool Guy (Aug 23, 2007)

seabiscuit68 said:


> And then there is the option of just building it from scratch. Well some MDF and laminate cover + t-tracks + fence creation material + power switch = probably about $250
> 
> So making it from scratch = $250 + even more time
> 
> ...



Your analysis appears correct........there are lots of good tables out there for $200+ and you aren't going to build something for less, unless you ignore your own time and effort. In my area, a local guy is trying to sell a woodpeckers table without insert for $49 and can't find any takers. Of course, the buyer would still need to buy a plate and fence.

But that's the thing about hobbies.....you can make them to be whatever you want. Build the stuff you want to build.......buy the rest and always remember Craigslist.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I figure it's your choice, if you want to build or buy. Mine is homemade, 1/2" plywood over a web of 2X4s, and a homemade routerplate, also 1/2" plywood. It's been in steady use for 10+ years, with no warpage or problems. Granted it's simple, but it does exactly what I want it for. If my wants/needs change, I'll either mod it, or more likely make another from scratch. I'd say mine is cost effective - it's version 4 or 5, and I've got a total of probably less then $5 in it - I recycle the nuts and bolts holding it to a shelf (I sit using it). I always figure if I buy, then I've buying what someone else 'thinks' I need/want; if I make it, then I know I'm going to get what I want/need. I'm very happy with mine, and I'd probably make the next one, even if I get a wheelbarrow load of money. Don't ask for plans or how I made it, plans were in my head, and 5 minutes after it was finished I wouldn't have been able to tell you how I did it. :no:


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Hi Bill, I also have the Grizzly table plus a large Craftsman aluminum bench top table. The grizzly table offers a whole raft of features. The fence is based on a large extruded aluminum angle and uses a replaceable split face which is very nice. I don't think you can build a comparable table for the price. Download the manual PDF and you can really understand what this table is. As stated before the extra plates are only $13, and are not cheap plastic. Nothing I have seen, for even twice the cost compares to it.

T10432 Router Table with Stand

http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/t10432_m.pdf


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

seabiscuit68 said:


> Can you give any reasons why this is better than any other router table? I am just curious - everyone always just says buy this one over this one, but never give any reasons.
> 
> Thanks


You've been searching the wrong places if that's the responses you've received. 

Doesn't really sound like you're interested in building one vs purchasing something ready to go.


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## CR1 (Aug 11, 2011)

> So making it from scratch = $250 + even more time


You are kidding - - right? 

1/4" thick plate from Rockler, $29.00 Even comes with a starting pin.
Some good plywood, $45 a sheet & how many you think you gonna need? 
Some sticks of wood for a frame prolly another $40 unless you are like me and harvest your own lumber resaw it and season it on site. 


It is a traditional rite of passage for a craftsman to make his own bench. 
I'd say the same applies to the other tools that can be made oneself. 

But if you are absolutely hell bent to pay for a router table consider not getting anything that isn't made from cast iron or aluminum. They will all warp and bow in time, especially if you hang a decent size hand shaper in them


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

The one thing your 250.00 router table cannot give you is the experience you gain making your own table. I have made three now and with each one I learn, give it a try.


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

xplorx4 said:


> The one thing your 250.00 router table cannot give you is the experience you gain making your own table. I have made three now and with each one I learn, give it a try.


Very true, albeit there's nothing wrong with buying one for some folks. 

Happy birthday from a fellow jeeper.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thank you Brett Where do you go jeeping?


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

CR1 said:


> But if you are absolutely **** bent to pay for a router table consider not getting anything that isn't made from cast iron or aluminum. They will all warp and bow in time, especially if you hang a decent size hand shaper in them


UH... and plywood won't? 

My 18 year old Woodpecker top is still quite flat and has had a 3.25HP plunge router hanging in it all that time! The key either way is adequate support! Without that plywood will certainly warp as well.

Also I can't really think of any skill needed for making a router table that can't or won't be learned making other things!

It comes down to a matter of personal preference... some enjoy building tools, others prefer to buy them and spending the time making other things. Neither is right or wrong and there are advantages and disadvantages with both.

But this idea that something is less satisfying somehow because you didn't make it your self is rather silly:sad:


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

Router tables are the bestest threads ever, it's the perfect topic to bring people out of the "woodwork"...pun intended.:jester:


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## seabiscuit68 (Feb 22, 2013)

CR1 said:


> You are kidding - - right?
> 
> 1/4" thick plate from Rockler, $29.00 Even comes with a starting pin.
> Some good plywood, $45 a sheet & how many you think you gonna need?
> ...


If we are doing apples to apples, the pre-made ones include fences, featheboards, power switches, etc...just because you CAN build it cheaper, doesn't make the tables analogous.


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## seabiscuit68 (Feb 22, 2013)

I decided to attempt the build your own method since my brother had a spare 1" thick laminated table top in his garage rafters. 

I bought:
Woodpecker Plate: $65
T-Track (for fence): $15
Miter Track (for table): $15
4 x 2 sheet MDF (for fence): $8
Dust Collection adapter: $6
Power switch: $10 

I didn't have a template for the Woodpecker plate, so I used a straight edge. Routed the outline of the plate. Cut it down to the right depth and it sits flush on the ledge that I made. Problem is, there was a shift when I was routing and now the hole for the plate is about a half inch too large for the plate in the horizontal (if looking down). This causes it to slide if I wiggle it back and forth a half inch.

Any ideas? I haven't opened anything yet and the board was free, so I can still return everything and go with a pre-built. 

I was considering the Grizzly one that everyone was flaunting for $130 - it looks really nice, until they add $10 for an "oversized" fee and another $16.50 for shipping. That already brings it up to $160 without tax. And that doesn't have a power switch.

And I am still considering the Bosch one, as it already has the featherboards and power switch included in its price...

But I am still thinking there might be a way to salvage the original top that has a slightly too big of opening.

Thanks


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

If it's the Bosch benchtop from Lowe's or Home Depot, then I'd reconsider. You may be ok with it, but it didn't meet my requirements for quality. The paper thin melamine was flaking off in the store, flimsy fence, just subpar all around. Best thing about it was an enclosed space with a door for noise.


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## seabiscuit68 (Feb 22, 2013)

BRAVOGOLFTANGO said:


> If it's the Bosch benchtop from Lowe's or Home Depot, then I'd reconsider. You may be ok with it, but it didn't meet my requirements for quality. The paper thin melamine was flaking off in the store, flimsy fence, just subpar all around. Best thing about it was an enclosed space with a door for noise.


You are thinking of the RA1171 - I am talking about the RA1181, which is an aluminium top.


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## BRAVOGOLFTANGO (Oct 11, 2012)

Not for me, but likely gets the job done. You stated the Grizzly was too expensive with shipping, this is more @ $185 Amazon. 

Thought you were building your own. :dirol:


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## seabiscuit68 (Feb 22, 2013)

BRAVOGOLFTANGO said:


> Not for me, but likely gets the job done. You stated the Grizzly was too expensive with shipping, this is more @ $185 Amazon.
> 
> Thought you were building your own. :dirol:


I mentioned a few posts ago that I was going to build my own, but when I routed the lip, my router shifted and now the lip is > 1/2" too big for the plate. I don't know if I can still use it and I don't have another top. So, if I can't use it, I was back to buying one.

The Grizzly one doesn't have simple things like featherboards and a power switch - bringing the cost up to around $200 for everything


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

seabiscuit68 said:


> I mentioned a few posts ago that I was going to build my own, but when I routed the lip, my router shifted and now the lip is > 1/2" too big for the plate. I don't know if I can still use it and I don't have another top. So, if I can't use it, I was back to buying one.
> 
> The Grizzly one doesn't have simple things like featherboards and a power switch - bringing the cost up to around $200 for everything



Bill, can you just glue a 3/4" strip along the edge of the hole and re-cut the insert?

My first use of a router was to use a similar method to fix some worn drawer runners.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

jw2170 said:


> Bill, can you just glue a 3/4" strip along the edge of the hole and re-cut the insert?
> 
> My first use of a router was to use a similar method to fix some worn drawer runners.


Bill; James has a solution to fix the router plate and there are other ways to "Make It Work". One of the reasons many on the Forum suggest "Build Your Own" whether it is a table, a bench or what ever is the learning expierience from building it yourself. Lord knows the many mistakes I've made and had to fix. What I learned from doing it right, doing it wrong and fiquring out how to fix the problem is what makes us better.

Early in this thread after reading that you had limited time in the shop and the project you had in mind I suggested buying a router table would be the way to go. That way you could focus on the project and not on the project before the project which would be the router table.

Since you have made it almost to the end of the table build then make it work.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

seabiscuit68 said:


> I mentioned a few posts ago that I was going to build my own, but when I routed the lip, my router shifted and now the lip is > 1/2" too big for the plate. I don't know if I can still use it and I don't have another top. So, if I can't use it, I was back to buying one.
> 
> The Grizzly one doesn't have simple things like featherboards and a power switch - bringing the cost up to around $200 for everything


how deep is the error? if you can arrange it such that you can glue in a piece that thickness, or close, then you can do it again. and you can use a router ski to flatten it if it sits proud. a router ski jig is a very good thing to have.

As Marco mentioned, making mistakes is part of this hobby, and learning how to get around them is also part of it.

I remember seeing a quote that said something like, a master woodworker is NOT someone who doesn't make mistakes. Rather, he is someone who has learned how to fix his mistakes so that they are not noticeable.


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## bnaboatbuilder (Jan 10, 2013)

Bill,

If you don't end up repairing the table top you've been working on and instead buy a router table, CPO tools is a good place to buy the Bosch RA1181. I bought one a week ago. I don't want to spend time building tools, I am building cabinets, a boat, a shed all at the same time. They have been running a 15% discount on Bosch tools. Also during the December holidays they run 25% discounts too, something to think about in the future.

I am pleased with the Bosch table. Easy setup and effortless integration with their MRC23 router. Over table height adjustment is done with a hex t-wrench. Changing bits couldn't be easier and very quick.

I think whether you build your own, buy the Bosch or Grizzly, they all will give you nearly everything you need for table routing. There is no single device, car, clothing, etc that is THE one for everyone to buy. Commit to a table, use it, learn and enjoy. I'm having a blast finally using a router table.


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