# skis



## locoboy (Sep 7, 2008)

I have seen various peoples ski set ups on here and my one concern is.....


Do the rods that hold the router not flex too much and allow the router to move up and down?

It looks like it would flex too much to me.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

locoboy said:


> I have seen various peoples ski set ups on here and my one concern is.....
> 
> 
> Do the rods that hold the router not flex too much and allow the router to move up and down?
> ...



Colin, whilst I always say to use the router with the largest holes, because the router is controlled by the ski ends, flexing is not normally a problem. Ski routing would normally be used when the cutter can meet the wood from the edge, if routing from say the centre of a project, the router will have to be lowered and then locked, this will cause some flexing probably making a deep mark at the point of contact. This shot illustrates what I mean.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi locoboy

Harry and Tom are the pro's But you don't need to hang a BIG 3 HP router on the ski jig, most are about 15lb. the smaller routers are about 8lb. or less. and will do the job just fine.
I just a made a new ski jig , that will take on any router or any size of rods to hold the BIG ones ( routers ) ....

http://www.routerforums.com/81891-post28.html
http://www.routerforums.com/81794-post21.html
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/9567-my-first-sign.html

=======




locoboy said:


> I have seen various peoples ski set ups on here and my one concern is.....
> 
> 
> Do the rods that hold the router not flex too much and allow the router to move up and down?
> ...


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

Wow BJ,

That's some skookum ski setup.

Ed......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Ed

What's neat about it I think ,one can beef it up to take on the big routers, by using a 3/8" thick drop in router table drop in plate and some 1/2" OR 3/4" rods that will hold a tank of a router and it only takes 3 or 4 screws to mount the router in place and use it , quick and easy way to use the the ski jig. 

I don't think any one wants to drill holes in the router base just to use a ski jig, this jig will take care of that ... 

Plus it will work great for making signs, because you can see what you are doing under the router base with or without the skis in place.and the bigger base will help give you more control of the router...


=======


karateed said:


> Wow BJ,
> 
> That's some skookum ski setup.
> 
> Ed......


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

karateed said:


> Wow BJ,
> 
> That's some skookum ski setup.
> 
> Ed......


Skookum? Would you please explain what that is?


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## karateed (Feb 7, 2006)

From Wikpedia - SKOOKUM,

It has a range of positive meanings. As described in the FAQ from Skookum Tools Ltd.{skookum}, the word can have meanings from "'good,' to 'strong,' 'best,' 'powerful,' 'ultimate' and 'first rate.' Something can be skookum meaning 'cool' or skookum can be 'tough.' A skookum burger is a big (or really tasty) hamburger, but when your Mom's food is skookum, it's delicious but also hearty [...] When you're skookum, you've got a purpose and you're on solid ground."

Being called skookum may also mean that someone can be counted on as reliable and hard-working, or is big and strong. In a perhaps slightly less positive vein, skookum house means jail or prison, cf. the English euphemism "the big house" but here meaning "strong house". Skookum tumtum, lit. "strong heart", is generally translated as "brave" or possibly "good-hearted". In the Chinook Jargon, skookum is also used as a verb auxiliary, as in "can" or "to be able". Another compound, though fallen out of use in modern BC English, is skookum lacasset, or strongbox.

A related word skookumchuck means turbulent water or rapids in a stream or river, i.e. "strong water" ("chuck" is Chinook Jargon for "water" or "stream" or "lake"). There are three placenames in British Columbia using this word, one of them for a famous saltwater rapid at the mouth of Sechelt Inlet, the others at rapids on the Lillooet and Columbia Rivers. While the rapid at the mouth of Sechelt Inlet is the Skookumchuck on the coast, the term is used in a general sense for other patches of rough water, typically tidal-exchange rapids at the mouths of other inlets or bays, which are a regular feature of the British Columbia Coast.

I think this applies to BJ's ski and to him as well.....the positive stuff that is.....

Ed.......


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Harry,

Unless my eyes are fooling me, is that a Makita I see?  

Hi Bj,

I have to agree with you about the larger routers weighing... way too much. However, I think some should look at the Makita 3612C. It's a large router but, not as heavy as one thinks. 

BTW, both setups are awesome. :sold:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

15lbs. not to light  like most are a small tank that spins a router bit 

====]
15 pounds
http://www.amazon.com/Makita-3612C-...ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1223257517&sr=1-2
http://www.amazon.com/review/produc...cm_cr_acr_txt?_encoding=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

* ADA Compliant : No
* Amperage : 15 Amps
* Assembled Depth (In Inches) : 11.75 In.
* Assembled Height (In Inches) : 11.75 In.
* Assembled Weight (In LBS) : 15.2
* Assembled Width (In Inches) : 8.75 In.
* Bit Change Type : Wrench Bit Change
* CSA Certified : No
* Color / Finish : Makita blue and Silver
* Cordless/Corded : Corded
* Depth Adjustment : Yes
* Dust Collection : No
* Energy Star Compliant : No
* Handle Type : 2-side handles
* Height : 11.6875 In.
* Horsepower : HP
* Length : 6.3125 In.
* Plunge : Yes
* Primary Collet Size : 1/4In.
* RPM : 23000 RPM
* Switch Type : toggle
* Tool Weight : 13.2 Lbs.
* Variable Speed : Yes
* Voltage : 115 Volts
* Width : 11.3125 In.



====

=========


Hamlin said:


> Hi Harry,
> 
> Unless my eyes are fooling me, is that a Makita I see?
> 
> ...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Ken
> 
> 15lbs. not to light  like most are a small tank that spins a router bit


Hi Bj,

I guess perhaps I eat too much spinach. LOL I can tell the difference between my 2 craftsman and both Makita's. The combo (you know the one ), from sears is really the only one I've found that can really compare to my Makita's. Then again, I'm a big fan of Makita, (in case ya couldn't tell).


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

And then there are those who do not "ski"...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Ok Mike, tell us all what you can do with that machine, I agree that everyone doesn.t use skis but I assumed that was because not everyone has been introduced to them!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, you've done a fine job making those skis, however, they are not very versatile because often on a large job it's necessary to shift the position of the router along the skis so that one end doesn't fall off the table. Adjusting eight nuts to do this would be a real put-off I'm afraid.


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## john heff (Sep 7, 2008)

Would someone please explain how you use a router with skis and what applications they are used for? - Thanks, John


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

All I can say try it,,, 

Most don't have a lathe to make your type, that's why I used the threaded rod..keep it simple ( KISS )

Plus the new one will let anyone with a router make one, most of the routers can't take on the big rods.
The PC is just one of many that only have very small 1/4" holes in the base for the edge guide to fit in..and just a pair of them...not 4 of them.

Ping / Pong




========




harrysin said:


> Bj, you've done a fine job making those skis, however, they are not very versatile because often on a large job it's necessary to shift the position of the router along the skis so that one end doesn't fall off the table. Adjusting eight nuts to do this would be a real put-off I'm afraid.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

O John

SKIS= It's a new door that will open for you,,,

I will let Harry jump on this one... 

=========



john heff said:


> Would someone please explain how you use a router with skis and what applications they are used for? - Thanks, John


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

John, one of the uses for the ski mount is for adjusting the thickness of a board. When using guide bushings and templates you do not have to worry about your router tipping and ruining the cut.

Harry, both of the above hold true with my overarm router. The difference is you move the work instead of the router, and this gives very good control. Sign making is easier since you are controlling the wood movement, and fences can be positioned to allow for quick and easy dado or rabbet cuts. The gentleman I purchased mine from used it in a production model shop for years. It was his own design and does have a couple of flaws I am trying to work out, such as easy plunging. At present height adjustments are made with a knob to lower the arm or the fine adjustment on the router. I am thinking a scissor jack might be the quick solution. A plunge router to replace the Rockwell fixed base would be a perfect addition.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'll leave John's question for last. Bj, as I've said in the past, My main objection to threaded rod is that it isn't pretty! When they go through the side fence holes it's fine and no different to mine, in as much only the two screws on the router need moving to slide the router along the rods. The system is fine for starting but I'm sure that when they have been well tested, most people will get nice smooth rods made by a friend, friend of a friend or a local jobbing engineering shop at surprisingly low cost.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mike, the only problem that I see is the limited front to back movement, but having said that, I'm sure that both myself and Bj could find some uses for it. (that isn't an offer to buy it!)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

" isn't pretty! " hahahahahaha if one wants it's pretty they can buy thin wall tubing and slip it over the rod  ( lamp tubing from many of the hardware stores)

========


harrysin said:


> I'll leave John's question for last. Bj, as I've said in the past, My main objection to threaded rod is that it isn't pretty! When they go through the side fence holes it's fine and no different to mine, in as much only the two screws on the router need moving to slide the router along the rods. The system is fine for starting but I'm sure that when they have been well tested, most people will get nice smooth rods made by a friend, friend of a friend or a local jobbing engineering shop at surprisingly low cost.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

I will pass I have seen a picture of it. I think and it's a gray tank.. 
http://www.routerforums.com/82577-post11.html
http://www.routerforums.com/43542-post1.html


======


harrysin said:


> Mike, the only problem that I see is the limited front to back movement, but having said that, I'm sure that both myself and Bj could find some uses for it. (that isn't an offer to buy it!)


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

John, don't be offended that I left you for last, it was so that I could spend more time digging out photos from past threads of mine which illustrate some of the things that can be done with the ski mounted router. Don't get the idea that I'm one eyed over this method, far from it, I believe that most routing can be done with the hand held plunge router and some of the rest on the table, leaving the skis for jobs that will be safer, easier and faster than alternative methods. There are now several members who have become adept at ski routing.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> HI Harry
> 
> " isn't pretty! " hahahahahaha if one wants it's pretty they can buy thin wall tubing and slip it over the rod  ( lamp tubing from many of the hardware stores)
> 
> ========


Bj, I know that you were being flippant, but providing it's possible to get metal tubing which is a good fit into the router, and providing you can get rods that are a good fit into the tubing, you will end up with rods having a shoulder at each end for fender washers and wing nuts on the outside, ie; the finished result will be indistinguishable from the "real thing"!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

Not so ( flippant ) the rods (pipe) that they use for Lamps are just the right size ( the norm 1/8" pipe size and 1/4" pipe size ) and the brass plated and the chrm.plated tube slip right over them just right.. 

The thread size can be 3/8-24 or 3/8-32 they make hex nuts to fit most of them...looks like a jam nut but with a smaller OD...


that would make them look like yours  nice and clean.. 

I almost used them but I wanted to be able to adjust them..  and lock the skis in place...

The pipes are made from 1" long to 3ft long the norm with threads on both ends the norm..
Next time you have a chance take a look at a tall lamp you have and you see what I mean. 

I should note I pickup old lamps from garage sales all the time just for the hardware...
See below

At one time I worked for a lamp company (Lights Inc.) when I was a kid of 18, we sold all types of hardware for lamps the big floor lamps most used the 1/4" pipe size that was about 1/2" in diam. and came in 18" long to 6ft long with long threads on both ends with the nuts to fit them and the tubes..most where just painted white or black steel..  I don't recall the thread size but the nuts are about the same as the small ones ( jam nut type) 

http://www.profhdwr.com/08336L.htm
http://www.profhdwr.com/08610L.htm
http://www.profhdwr.com/lampstuff/

========
*flippant* 
1.	frivolously disrespectful, shallow, or lacking in seriousness; characterized by levity: The audience was shocked by his flippant remarks about patriotism. 
=======

Below you will see why I use threaded rod, the ski jig is a great way to put in slots, I make a lot of jigs and may of them have slots for the adjustments in/on the jig,,I did at one time use the drop and slot way on the router table and that can be just a bit tricky as you know and not to safe,,,,  now I just move the skis sides in on the side of the base board then use the cams to lock the part in place and cut the slot , easy now and safe 

Some will say why not just use the edge guide and the plunge router to get the job done,,1st you need to lock the part down to the work bench or scrap plywood, then some times you need two slots right next to each other using the ski jig makes this type of job so easy and quick and SAFE...it's hard to tell you how much time it can save you.. 

see below... 

========



=====






harrysin said:


> Bj, I know that you were being flippant, but providing it's possible to get metal tubing which is a good fit into the router, and providing you can get rods that are a good fit into the tubing, you will end up with rods having a shoulder at each end for fender washers and wing nuts on the outside, ie; the finished result will be indistinguishable from the "real thing"!


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## john heff (Sep 7, 2008)

harrysin said:


> John, don't be offended that I left you for last, it was so that I could spend more time digging out photos from past threads of mine which illustrate some of the things that can be done with the ski mounted router.


Harry, I'm not at all offended, thanks for those pictures. In picture #2 you wrote "guide router by the ends of skis...." which helped me understand how you use the skis. Previously I thought the skis were stationary and you slid the router back-and-forth on the two long rods. Are all the applications where you use skis performed 'freehand'? - John


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You do have a keen eye Hamlin, its a Makita 3600 that used to be in my table but now permanently on skis.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Are all the applications where you use skis performed 'freehand'? - John"

John, if you look look at shot #4, you'll see that a template is being used


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI John

Here's a good read  read all the posted items and the links by TT..

http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/480-give-them-try.html

========


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## john heff (Sep 7, 2008)

harrysin said:


> John, if you look look at shot #4, you'll see that a template is being used


Hello Harry,
I missed seeing that template in your post the first time that I viewed it, thanks for pointing it out to me. Speaking of that shot #4, I am totally confused and hope you can set me straight (I hope I can describe it so that you can understand it). 
It appears to me that the router is positioned 'right-center' on the rods and is also at the right side of the template. Do you slide the router back-and-forth on the rods while you are running the router? i.e. when you are cutting a square pattern do you slide/move the WOODEN SKIS when making the vertical cuts and then slide the router ON THE RODS to make the horizontal cuts (leaving the wooden skis in position without moving them horizontally)? Or is the router fixed FIRMLY to the rods and you move only the skis to make the cut? Or can you do it BOTH ways? Regards, John


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## john heff (Sep 7, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI John
> 
> Here's a good read  read all the posted items and the links by TT..


Thanks Bob. That certainly was a 'good read'. - John


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

john heff said:


> Hello Harry,
> I missed seeing that template in your post the first time that I viewed it, thanks for pointing it out to me. Speaking of that shot #4, I am totally confused and hope you can set me straight (I hope I can describe it so that you can understand it).
> It appears to me that the router is positioned 'right-center' on the rods and is also at the right side of the template. Do you slide the router back-and-forth on the rods while you are running the router? i.e. when you are cutting a square pattern do you slide/move the WOODEN SKIS when making the vertical cuts and then slide the router ON THE RODS to make the horizontal cuts (leaving the wooden skis in position without moving them horizontally)? Or is the router fixed FIRMLY to the rods and you move only the skis to make the cut? Or can you do it BOTH ways? Regards, John



John, the router IS locked onto the skis and it's position depends on the project and size of the bench. It isn't unusual for me to re-position the router on the skis several times whilst routing so that the skis don't drop off the table. This link to an earlier project of mine showing how to rout a trinket box out of solid wood should give you an insight into ski routing.

http://www.routerforums.com/guide-bushings-templates/4272-new-project-hot-off-router.html

I've just had a peep at that project and see that in those days photographs would become jumbled irrespective of the order in which they were posted, also it was before I learnt how to add text.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Harry and Bob: Hold on a minute.

I bought two pieces about 14" long of 12mm threaded steel rod. It was all I could find. I figured I could put the boards on the end and use thumbscrews to locate the router across the bars. But the way you two talk, is you fix the locations of the end boards and they pretty much stay there. I have to assume from the pictures I've seen, that you adjust the height of the router at the boards, but locate the router with the thumbscrews?

allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI allthunbs

That's what I do but Harry doesn't care for all thread rod but it works great for me..

I will say I don't need to make a template(s) or use one with the all threaded rod..just lock the stock in place move the router into place lock it with the thumb screws and drop and slot...


here's a shot of a feather boards I made today with the ski jig...(a pair of them)
Putting in a slot can be tricky but it's easy with the ski jig and it's safe way...

3/4" thick Cherry , 3/8" wide slot 5" long...

====

Plus you will see RustyW setup below..


========


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

allthunbs said:


> Harry and Bob: Hold on a minute.
> 
> I bought two pieces about 14" long of 12mm threaded steel rod. It was all I could find. I figured I could put the boards on the end and use thumbscrews to locate the router across the bars. But the way you two talk, is you fix the locations of the end boards and they pretty much stay there. I have to assume from the pictures I've seen, that you adjust the height of the router at the boards, but locate the router with the thumbscrews?
> 
> allthunbs



Hi AT, whilst your rods are rather on the short side, limiting the projects that can be accomplished, they are still long enough for heaps of small projects. The rods are adjusted at the end cheeks so that the base of the router is just a little clear of the wood, it's important that all four corners are at the same height. With my rods it's only necessary to tighten a wing nut at each corner, but with threaded rod you would require a nut and washer on each side of the cheek at each corner. With short rods like yours, the router would be locked at approx. centre of the rods with the screws that are on the router for securing the supplied side fence. Once the skis have been set, the router's depth stops are used to determine the cut. The attached photo, whilst showing the router mounted on my circle cutting jig, illustrates how the router is locked on the rods. Don't forget that the assembly is controlled by holding the end cheeks, NOT the router.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Have you ever done it the other way? i.e. lock the skis and slide the router across the rods? I have a bunch of grooves to cut in some face frames. The sticks are 4/8/12 feet long. I was going to gang a bunch together and using a template and guide bushing do them that way. However, if all I have to do is slid the skis into place, lock them and cut the grooves, that would be a lot quickier. Suggestions?

Allthunbs


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Allthunbs

I have not try that, the router likes to move when it starts the pass..

I would try this, clamp the router in place then lock it in place then just slide the stock under the router base.
With some boards on both side of the stock to keep it running true under the router..


========


allthunbs said:


> Have you ever done it the other way? i.e. lock the skis and slide the router across the rods? I have a bunch of grooves to cut in some face frames. The sticks are 4/8/12 feet long. I was going to gang a bunch together and using a template and guide bushing do them that way. However, if all I have to do is slid the skis into place, lock them and cut the grooves, that would be a lot quickier. Suggestions?
> 
> Allthunbs


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## oleo40 (Sep 21, 2008)

I am very new to this site but is there some where to find the plans for Ski's. Very interesting but not sure how/to from the pictures I see [or not Seeing]
Ole


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Ole, you can build your own with out any plans. The size of your workbench comes into play with how wide you can build your ski's. A good size would be rods 18" in length, that should cover most small projects. The rods need to be 1/2" diameter to keep from flexing. Insert them through your router so they are even on both sides, apply some lipstick to the ends of the rods and then press them against the wooden end pieces. This will transfer a nice mark where the two holes need to be drilled. Repeat for the other side. This should have you on the right track.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I learn something new ever day on the great forum I guess that's why I like it so much, I didn't know you had a set of the ski jig..

I would love to see your setup...on the Bosch router..maybe I can steal a tip or two from your setup for the next set I'm going to make..

I'm going to pickup a Bosch router just for kicks and give it a try out..

Just some snapshots would do the trick I think..  thanks


=========




Mike said:


> Ole, you can build your own with out any plans. The size of your workbench comes into play with how wide you can build your ski's. A good size would be rods 18" in length, that should cover most small projects. The rods need to be 1/2" diameter to keep from flexing. Insert them through your router so they are even on both sides, apply some lipstick to the ends of the rods and then press them against the wooden end pieces. This will transfer a nice mark where the two holes need to be drilled. Repeat for the other side. This should have you on the right track.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

*ski sled?*

i have been looking and im sure i missed it, but what are skis used for?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI levon

Click on My Gallery item on the left side of this post and the same for HarrySin and Template Tom and you will see many items they can used for.. 

======



levon said:


> i have been looking and im sure i missed it, but what are skis used for?


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

i see many things you guys have made, but not sure how the skis worked. is there anywhere on the router workshop they are used, so i can see how they are used. i truely am a novice.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi levon

Not that I know about BUT maybe ask Harry to make a video if you can get him off the lathe that long 
He got me hooked on them   now I'm a pusher for the ski jigs   LOL LOL

=========


levon said:


> i see many things you guys have made, but not sure how the skis worked. is there anywhere on the router workshop they are used, so i can see how they are used. i truely am a novice.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

*thanks*

thanks bobj3. this furum seems to have a lot of good people that try to help people. its better than most forums ive looked at.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

levon said:


> thanks bobj3. this furum seems to have a lot of good people that try to help people. its better than most forums ive looked at.


Levon, perhaps these shots from previous posts of mine will assist you. Don't hesitate to ask further questions.


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## jjciesla (Oct 20, 2007)

Harry, I assume you lock the router on the rods and move the whole thing around, right? Would there be a case where you would move the router on the rods?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jjciesla said:


> Harry, I assume you lock the router on the rods and move the whole thing around, right? Would there be a case where you would move the router on the rods?


You are quite right, the router is locked to the rods and the whole assembly is operated from the ski ends, this gives exceptional control and accuracy when routing freehand. I can't think of any operation where the router would need to be slid along the rods, apart from anything else, holding the router itself would flex the rods, especially if they are thin, and so alter the depth of cut.
I have in the past, described using the skis as almost as good as sex, (going from memory of course) Get cracking, make a set and let us all know what you think about ski routing.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

*knowledge*

if you knew only of a set of router skis, would any posts and pics tell you what they are used for? i dont mean any disrespect, but no one has said what they are used for. if they are used for roundovers, i dont need them. i know they arent, but havent had anyone say what they used them for. i will tell any novice how to roundover a board. it is not a secret that i will protect. sooner or later someone will explain that a ski set is great to use for........


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI levon

The ski jig is just a router table upside down so to speak, it holds the router for you, so to say it will do anything that the router table can just a bit safer,,,lets take a slot for just one job... you can do it on the router table but it can be just a bit hairy because you need to drop the stock on the bit and then push the stock over the bit...if you are lucky you can get it done in one pass but it almost always takes two or more passes but with the ski jig it's a safe job to do just drop the bit in and move the router..

Here's just some items you can do with the ski jig and a template or two, but without the ski it's a hard job but with the ski jig it's a easy one..

http://www.routerforums.com/53713-post1.html

=====


Hope this helps.. 

====


levon said:


> if you knew only of a set of router skis, would any posts and pics tell you what they are used for? i dont mean any disrespect, but no one has said what they are used for. if they are used for roundovers, i dont need them. i know they arent, but havent had anyone say what they used them for. i will tell any novice how to roundover a board. it is not a secret that i will protect. sooner or later someone will explain that a ski set is great to use for........


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Levon, here a a few shots of the skis being used, the first is planing a cupped board for a box lid, the second the router had insufficient support on top of the template and could have tilted, the third, the finger joints didn't turn out even so, with the skis it was a quick job to plane all sides level. The last two shots made routing the sign an accurate simple method. If you still aren't convinced about the about skis, simply forget you ever heard about them and carry on as before.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Levon, I've just re-read this thread and see that there are many photographs showing the skis in action.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Levon, It is not a secret being kept from you, the uses of ski's can be difficult to put into words. Many jobs are easy to do with a router table. Jobs that are difficult if not impossible would include routing patterns in the interior of the material. This is because you can not see what you are doing. By flipping the material over and suspending your router on ski's you now have the freedom of movement to reach any place in the material and can plunge rout while seeing the cutting action. You can easily follow patterns with guide bushings. You can surface a board to the needed thickness. These tasks can be performed with an overarm router or the much lower cost (and easier to store) ski's. The big advantage is control. Moving the ski's or moving the work piece with an overarm router allows for very precise results.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

*looking at galleries*

harry, i have been looking over pictures for awhile now and think i see what its meant for. mike your info and looking at pics have helped me tremendously. i see that the skis probably could be used for signs or carving designs into the wood so you can see what you are doing. i hope im right, let me know if im not right. as a novice i think im probably not ready for that yet, but i do try and understand when someone posts and try to picture what they are talking about. thanks so much for all the help you guys!


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