# Chamfer Help



## newrouter (Apr 4, 2013)

First of all, Hello and thanks for having a great forum here! I have been reading and learning a lot!

I have a set of french doors sitting on a 2x10 that a deck is going to be built up to. I want to put a 45 degree angle on the edge of the 2x10 so the sharp edge (toe stubber) is gone. The area isn't quite big enough to get the circular saw into. I need the angle to start .5" down the side of the 2x10. My plan is to then sand down the top of the 2 x 10 at the 45 and round it off a little bit. 

I am totally new to using a router. I am using a Craftsman 315.17480 that was given to me. I bought a Bosch 1 5/16" x 45 bit today, but I'm not sure if it will do the trick or I need something else. My plan is to get some scrap wood to practice on before attempting the real thing.

Can this be done? Any tips would be really appreciated.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It is a good idea to practice first. When you are routing using a bearing guided bit you should work from left to right, the router will be much easier to control that way.

If I understand you correctly you are installing your doors on top of a 2 x 10 that is laying flat and that will stick out far enough to expose the top corner. Is the deck going to be under a roof? If not, this installation will allow water to run under the door between it and the 2 x 10.


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## newrouter (Apr 4, 2013)

Ok, I will remember that. Left to right. Can you make multiple passes with these bits or is it a one time deal?

Yes, the door is on top of the 2 x 10. Unfortunately that's how it was installed several years ago. Maybe I should take it out at this point and redo it while I can get to it. There is no roof over this section. Just eaves from the roof.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, Paul.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Paul, using a V bit you will need a guide for your router. This can be the routers edge guide or a board for the router to ride against like a fence. A V bit is able to make a big cut but you should limit the amount of material removed in one pass to about 1/4" for the best results. If you need to cut deeper lower the bit slightly and repeat the process until you reach the desired depth.

A bearing guided chamfering bit works the same way but does not need an edge guide or fence to ride against.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Paul; It's only about 40" long isn't it? just use your bench plane. It's a 5 minute job with a sharp plane.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Paul, Welcome to the Router Forums!

I'm inclined to agree with Dan (inVan). You're not going to be able to get to the ends with any router that I have ever met. Hand tools are often the way to go on confined built-in objects such as this. Stanley Surform is another tool that comes to mind, as well as Microplane cutters (hand held). Since the board is already in situ, there may be fasteners that would cause your router to go awry. You can finish this shaping with a belt-sander cutting in a transverse direction. This does not dound like a "router job" to me.

Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Otis, using a hand held router horizontally the entire cut can be made.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

> I need the angle to start .5" down the side of the 2x10


Mike, I took this to mean his chamfer starts 1/2" from one [exposed] side and stops 1/2" from the [opposite] side (of the door opening). _*If I am wrong in my understanding - then you might be right.*_ My thought is that (any router that I've ever met's) base plate will not fit into the beginning and end of said cut. I am thinking jamb would be in the way for vertically held cut and wrapping (trim, molding, etc.) would be in the way horizontally.

Otis


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Since this is an external door the sill plate should extend out past any interference. A sharp wood chisel could pare down anything the router could not reach.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Or a plane...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Paul, I don't know how far the 2 x10 (plate) sticks out from under the door but if you can't redo the frame so that the thresh hold of the door sticks out over the plate then you should slope the plate right from the door out to the edge so that water will run away from the joint. A plane would probably be best for this. Use a good quality flexible caulk along the joint between the door and the plate.


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## newrouter (Apr 4, 2013)

Wow, thanks guys for all the replies!

Otis, there is room on either side to fit the router. I was thinking the actual cut needed to start .5" down on the side of the 2 x 10. 

After thinking about it and looking at it, I think it's best to go ahead and take the door out and redo it while I can get to it. I will regret it down the road if I don't do it now. It's really a weird setup. The 2x10 extends out about 4" past the door sill. This will look bad against the deck, and eventually will rot out from the water. 

Thanks for all of your advice. Now I definitely know where to come ask ?'s when I start messing around with the router.


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