# Epoxy on red cedar?



## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

I'm making some windows, and I'm trying to decide what kind of glue to use for the joinery. I normally use titebond III for just about everything, but I know you're supposed to clean cedar with acetone first before using TB III to cut the oil in the wood. I can't say I'm excited to try to clean dowel holes with acetone, so I was thinking of using epoxy instead. If I went with epoxy, would I still have to clean the wood with acetone, or some other solvent?

Option #3 is gorilla glue....

Edit: I should say, I'm considering using either Cold Cure or JB Quik Weld (as that's what I've got handy.)


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Are you talking about the sash and muntin bars? Lets not forget that wood windows have been around a lot longer than epoxy. If the sash is built with accurate joints, and properly glazed, the exterior finish should keep the wood from soaking up any moisture. From the hundreds of windows I've had to refurbish/replace I can say unequivocally that lack of proper maintenance is the killer. The type of glue is secondary to stopping moisture and UV from attacking the wood in the first place. Type III is perfect; epoxy is overkill.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I was thinking about your window...had you considered a top hung awning style...out-swing? No rain or snow can come in, and it's vastly simpler to build than a slider.
Also if you make 1/2 lap joints on the corners, with the side stiles lapped on the back, you'll have a much simpler and stronger sash...glue and clamp, then drill and dowel right through the joints after they're dry. Good luck getting it apart!!


----------



## thrinfo (Jan 21, 2012)

I've stain my window and use Cetol and it's there for more than 30 years and still in good condition, not rot, just to be sure not to keep the wood unprotected.


----------



## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> I was thinking about your window...had you considered a top hung awning style...out-swing? No rain or snow can come in, and it's vastly simpler to build than a slider.
> Also if you make 1/2 lap joints on the corners, with the side stiles lapped on the back, you'll have a much simpler and stronger sash...glue and clamp, then drill and dowel right through the joints after they're dry. Good luck getting it apart!!


Hey Dan,

Half lap would have been a good way to go, but I've already cut the stiles to length.

Might still do something like a top mount hinge, we'll see!


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Heh...'Ask twice; cut once'

The Parks people, out here in B.C., used to screen the outhouse window openings. Somebody finally figured out that as folks tend to leave the doors open between uses, it was kind of pointless (more flies inside than out!)


----------



## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

I ended up doweling one of the two frames last night, and glued it this morning with TBIII. I ended up going with TB III for convenience more than anything - no foaming squeeze out, and I was gluing in the house (too cold for gluing outside) so I didn't want to gas everyone out with epoxy fumes.


----------

