# Flattening Panel w/ Router Jig?



## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

Hi All - I'm new to this forum but a member of _Woodnet Forums_ for 8 yrs, so not a 'new' woodworker, but one that has been retired for a year and wanting to do more w/ wood and as easily & efficiently as possible.

Glued-up panels - just a pain for me to flatten! :bad: (like the smileys here, BTW).

What are my current options: 1) Jointer (Yorkcraft 6"); 2) Makita 12" thickness planer; 3) Belt sanders (several of various sizes); and 4) Planes up to a jointer size (not very good but improving in this area). Thus, I can 'flatten' my glue-ups but takes TIME!

SO (and I did a search to try to find an answer to my question), what are the options for a versatile router jig to handle this issue; and what might be the best router bit to achieve this purpose? I own a number of routers that can handle 1/2" bits.

SORRY, if my search did not 'turn up' an obvious answer, but still interested in YET another option to flattening these panels; plan to start making MORE! Thanks - Dave


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Dave.

What are the dimensions for the panels? that has a big influence on the best method to use.


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Dave.
> What are the dimensions for the panels? that has a big influence on the best method to use.


Hello *James* - of course, the panels will vary depending on my project, but the main dimension is the width beyond 12" (which will not work w/ my thickness planer), the length could be similar or more likely up to 24" to 36" (such as a glued-up book shelf).

My main issue in the past (and I've made plenty of glued-up panels) have been in slight uneven margins @ the glue lines - possibly a router jig to reduce those lines and then some planing & sanding may be a solution for me? Not sure, but was just curious if others here have used a router to partially or completely flatten panels w/ a jig? Thanks for any comments or advice from members here - Dave


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

router plane table for large slabs jig - YouTube
Plane a large table top flat using just a router - YouTube
Planing Mahogany Body Blank - YouTube


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

giradman said:


> Hi All - I'm new to this forum but a member of _Woodnet Forums_ for 8 yrs, so not a 'new' woodworker, but one that has been retired for a year and wanting to do more w/ wood and as easily & efficiently as possible.
> 
> Glued-up panels - just a pain for me to flatten! :bad: (like the smileys here, BTW).
> 
> ...


Welcome Dave,

If I'm planing a wide surface, then I use the method Chris posted in the second video he linked to. Lots of members here use what is called a router ski... It's basically the same thing. (I built one...)

Both methods work. It's slow and tedious. If I had to do that to every glue-up panel I made, well time is money and I'd be losing money. So isn't the real question on how to glueup panels to where all you have to do is scrape off some glue and sand? 

If so, we just had a recent thread on glue-edges that has a lot of those answers. Yes, it boils down to prep work and your work flow. Check board thickness. If different, plane. Match the grain and color in your pieces. Set the finished side, order and orientation. Get your glue-edge between adjacent pieces. Glue and set on kauls, Clamp and tighten/clamp kauls. Wipe excess glue. Tap all pieces towards the finished side and that kaul side, to line up the finished side of the joint. Let dry. Scrape off any excess glue. Sand.

So my glue-ups end up with very little sanding to do on the finished side, with a little more to do on the unfinished side. All my glue-edge tooling is from the finish side. All my tooling is referenced from the finished side. The finished side is the most visual. 

If your having to plane every glue-up... you're doing a lot of work & you're putting a lot of wear on your tools. This is a hobby(?) It sounds like you are making it harder that it should be.

Now- When I get a piece of oversized rough sawn with some to die for grain, yes I spent my time planing it and feel it's time well spent.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The router skis are very versatile.


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## Gerry Kiernan (Jul 19, 2007)

Hi Dave

I built my own jig to flatten a laminated bench top of about 36 inches by ten feet. I took the parallel tubes from an old rowing exercise machine, and replaced the seat with a platform to hold my router. I built clamp supports at each end of the tubes, and set it up so the router platform could slide back and forth sideways across the bench top. I put guide boards on each side of the top to provide a level surface for the jig to sit on. Once built I set the jig on top of the bench top and just kept working it back and forth and moving it along the length of the bench top. It worked very well. Of course, once I was done with the router I had to finish smooth with sanders. Old rowing machines can often be found very cheap at thrift shops and garage sales.

Gerry


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

"but still interested in YET another option to flattening these panels"
***************************
Have jointer & planer? Then I can get you to finished stock without remilling.
T&G on equal thickness stock, glue up on a press frame. Not much more than that.
Email for finer points if desired.


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

Hi *Chris* - thanks for the links! You know I rarely view _youtube_ videos but there is a LOT of information available - should use the service more! I was rather surprised by the young man doing a LARGE table top w/ his router jig - did not notice any 'ear or eye production' nor a dust mask - Dave


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> Welcome Dave,
> 
> .....It's slow and tedious...........
> 
> ...


Hi Mike - thanks for your comments - just left a few highlights in the quote above. 

Those sleds are certainly going to be a tedious experience w/ the size of router bits, which would likely be another discussion, e.g. the bigger the better to a point?

I'll try to find that thread on 'glue-up edges' - I've done plenty of options in the past from just edge joining (if the boards are really flat and fit together well - probably should be my goal in the future?), biscuits (which are just too loose to correct minor edge problems in my experience), dowels (which bring a tighter fit but are time consuming and jig dependent which I have), and others that I'm not recalling @ the moment.

My panel 'flatness' has varied - sometimes 'spot on' and other times glue line ridges to correct - in the past I used my belt sander first, but have invested in a lot of planes (mostly Veritas) over the last decade, so just trying to learn how each fits into this process.

In upcoming projects that require panels, I'll spend some more time preparing the stock for flatness and fit - NOW that I'm retired, the time is there - thanks again - Dave


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

harrysin said:


> The router skis are very versatile.


Thanks Harry for the pics - the process seems pretty straight-forward, i.e. some type of sliding sled/guides - also like your 'bottom cleaning' bit which should quicken the process - Dave


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

Quillman said:


> "but still interested in YET another option to flattening these panels"
> ***************************
> Have jointer & planer? Then I can get you to finished stock without remilling.
> T&G on equal thickness stock, glue up on a press frame. Not much more than that.
> Email for finer points if desired.


Hi *Pat* - just joined this site as you see - I've seen your T&G results - beautiful as always! :yes4:

BTW - your clear DW router bases arrived today along w/ the other items ordered! Thanks for your prompt mailing - anxious to put them to use. Dave


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

For planining I have a Frued 1 1/4" mortising bit with a 1/2" shank and an Amana 1 3/4" Straight with 1/2 shank.

The threads you might be interested in are:
Question Concerning Edge Jointing
Reverible Bit vs. Toung And Grave Bit


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

Just another option

Woodhaven Planing Sleds - YouTube

Woodhaven 3004 51" Planing Sled : Planing Sled


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

MAFoElffen said:


> For planining I have a Frued 1 1/4" mortising bit with a 1/2" shank and an Amana 1 3/4" Straight with 1/2 shank.
> 
> The threads you might be interested in are:
> Question Concerning Edge Jointing
> Reverible Bit vs. Toung And Grave Bit


Thanks again *Mike* for the links - took a look and read both; not sure that I want yet another set of router bits for this purpose - need to work much more on preparing my stock for flatness before glue-up - NOW have more time!

Also, I'd like to make a planing sled jig and obtain a router bit(s) that will provide a wider width for surfacing a panel - have looked at and reviewed all of the options mentioned; the Woodhaven sleds look great but NOT @ $200 or so - Dave


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

what would be the best bit for those pitiful folks (like myself for example) who only have a 1/4" shank router?


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

jschaben said:


> Just another option
> 
> Woodhaven Planing Sleds - YouTube
> 
> Woodhaven 3004 51" Planing Sled : Planing Sled


That reminds me of the Maxis Tooling System

I actually checked in to one. CNC kind of axis movement without any of the "smarts" (hand movement). I guess one of those things to buy when I win the lotto.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Chris, any 3/4" straight bit will work just fine, even with a 1/4" shank.


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## damnitboy (Mar 3, 2012)

Howdy Mike,

Take a look at this Woodhaven Planing Sled. $179.00 for 27" wide and $234.00 for 51" wide. The length is however long you want to make your rails. We have used these many times with good results.

http://www.amazon.com/Woodhaven-300...qid=1343221103&sr=8-6&keywords=woodhaven+sled 

-Eloy


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

i just found this. since it is 1 1/4" as opposed to 3/4", woud it result in a smoother surface?

Porter-Cable 43442PC 1-1/4 Inch Two-Flute Hinge Mortising Router Bit, 1/4-Inch Shank


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Eloy, nice looking jig. Cost to build the router ski jig shown is about $25 and it works great.

Chris, I would hesitate about using a bit with a 1/4" shank larger than 1" diameter. I used a PC 3/4" straight bit with a 1/4" shank to demo this jig at the ISS event.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Mike, 

Just F.Y.I.

Biggest bit I found that would work for my 1/2" was a Magnate #2709 3" 2 flute surface planing (bottom cleanout) speed 13,000 rpm... but it's too much for my budget.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

1 pc 1/2"SH 1-1/4" Dia Dish, Bowl & Tray Router Bit | eBay


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> 1 pc 1/2"SH 1-1/4" Dia Dish, Bowl & Tray Router Bit | eBay


Bob- That price beats the heck out of any other bits I've found here. I was thinking of a project that one would be just right for.

When used for planing, does that one have any problems trying to lift or float? Or since it's a bowl bit, the bottom of the cutter makes up for that?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

The bits makes it easy on the router,1 1/4" is a big path to remove,it's like using a skew angle bit,removes a little bit at one time but it will be flat....at the end of the job...the real plus you will have one bit that will do more than one job..you can also add a bearing to the bit for a great bowl bit,you can also use it with the bigger brass guides..from Lee Valley ...

==



MAFoElffen said:


> Bob- That price beats the heck out of any other bits I've found here. I was thinking of a project that one would be just right for.
> 
> When used for planing, does that one have any problems trying to lift or float? Or since it's a bowl bit, the bottom of the cutter makes up for that?


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

Thanks ALL for your comments on jigs & bits for panel flattening - believe that the 'ski approach' looks effective and an easy build - likely would use my DeWalt plunge router w/ a 1/2" shank bit.

The other day I was re-organizing (and centralizing) my router bit collection and found the pattern bit below which I purchase from Woodcraft years ago and have used only several times on 'top pattern' cutting.

Now the diameter is 1 1/8" w/ flat bottom cutters - since I will not be taking off much material w/ single passes, this bit should work - if others' bring up objections, then I'll look for another bit but seems like plenty 'wide' ones w/ flat bottoms will suffice for this purpose. Dave


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

That should work fine Dave.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Mike said:


> That should work fine Dave.


Agree.......

1 1/8" should be OK...

If you find you are doing a lot of planing with the router a bottom cleaning bit may be helpful.


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> Agree.......
> 1 1/8" should be OK...If you find you are doing a lot of planing with the router a bottom cleaning bit may be helpful.


Thanks *Guys* for the comments - I may still purchase one of those rounded bowl clean-out bits and try both - NOW, to making my ski jig - Dave


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

i just came across this: looks like it would be very good for planing

Amazon.com: Magnate 2704 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/4" Cutting Diameter: Home Improvement


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> i just came across this: looks like it would be very good for planing
> 
> Amazon.com: Magnate 2704 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/4" Cutting Diameter: Home Improvement


Chris- Look closer... Magnate makes the bit up to 3" in 1/2" shank (#2709).


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

yes, i saw them up to 2 3/4" on amazon. and i just got a variable speed 1/2" collet plunge router ... im ready for it!

Amazon.com: Magnate 2707 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 2-3/4" Cutting Diameter: Home Improvement


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

1 pc 1/2 Sh 1-3/4" Diameter Bottom Cleaning Router Bit | eBay


===


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## giradman (Jul 23, 2012)

Hi *ALL* again and thanks for your comments & advice! 

After considering the suggestions & the cost of putting my own sled together (assuming some mistakes & extra $$), I ordered the Woodhaven sled below (the smaller one which will be fine for me) - today, I put the sled together and it looks great - I really like the router mounting options, i.e. pretty much any of my routers that will fit!

NOW, I'm in a quandary regarding how to use this sled - the manual provides several solutions but NOT to my liking - SO, for those that own this Woodhaven product, I would appreciate some input as to 'alternatives' from the few recommended in the manual - any ideas would be greatly appreciated - thanks. Dave


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