# Diablo 10” blades for cutting aluminum



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Guys Home Depot doesn’t like quality products anymore and dropped all their Freud table saw blades in a favour of Diablo . The Freud router bits are being ousted next ,to bad there wasn’t a deal .

Anyways the local steel place here always scratches my checker plate when they cut it , so I want to opt to do it myself on my tablesaw.
I need to cut checker plate aluminium , and am wondering if the Diablo blades are recommended .
This is the link for the one I’m looking at . I was going to try Home Hardware tomorrow and see if they carry Freud . 

https://www.homedepot.ca/product/freud-10-in-non-ferrous-plastic-80-teeth/1000152640?rec=true


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok I just found this article 

https://www.routerforums.com/attach...256-something-got-noticed-freud-vs-diablo.pdf


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

seriously...
all the information about blades I've put up and you ask this...
just make sure it's a negative rake and a TCG grind...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> seriously...
> all the information about blades I've put up and you ask this...
> just make sure it's a negative rake and a TCG grind...


Ooops


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Rick, I believe Freud makes the Diablo line of blades.

David


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

difalkner said:


> Rick, I believe Freud makes the Diablo line of blades.
> 
> David


they do...


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I don't cut metal with a saw blade, on purpose anyway. But years ago I bought a blade for my circular saw at Big Lots, for $10. Carbide tipped, zipped thru wood like a hot knife thru butter, still does for that matter. I think the blade would be good thru aluminum, don't know if it would scratch it or not, but a run with a sander would solve that. Thing is, if it was only good for a few pieces, then had to be replaced, it was cheap. Haven't been in Big Lots for a number of years, but they always had things at a low price. Bought a batch of metal quick clamps for $1 each, should have bought them all. If you have one near you wouldn't hurt to check it out. I think I'll try to remember to check the one here, if I remember next time I'm in the county seat.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

How thick is the Diamond plate?
Herb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> How thick is the Diamond plate?
> Herb


Good question Herb . It seems pretty thin ,but that’s not saying much . I may just go and purchase the Diablo tomorrow , that’s if the other two stores do not stock Freud


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Rick, if you insist on a red blade, HD sells one for about $100 less than the one you posted. Specifically for aluminum, too.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-10-in-x-80-Teeth-Non-Ferrous-Plastic-Cutting-Saw-Blade-D1080N/100043779?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories_PLA&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories_PLA-71700000034127227-58700003933021549-92700031755124874&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=Cj0KCQiAsvTxBRDkARIsAH4W_j9gzbf-T9qSvHEJYJSmgTRHwtou43V5yD4l4fJqek6zlCMYt-5YNyMaAi3iEALw_wcB


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Rick...the one Gene found seems to have more of a negative rake than the other one...

Do this...measure the thickness of the aluminum, including the humps, and contact Freud/Diablo for their recommendation.

More teeth and negative rake is better...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I had a chance to ask a Freud rep a couple of years ago what the difference was between the Diablo and the Industrial lines of blades. His answer were that they were identical except for the thickness of the carbide which allowed the industrial line blades to be sharpened more times. If you were buying a D1024 thin rip blade which KMS Tools occasionally sells for $29.95 you probably aren't going to have it resharpened anyway so the Diablo becomes a better deal. They do sell non ferrous cutting blades (brass, copper, aluminum) which will have the correct tooth rake and hardness of carbide for that particular job.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Guys I’m starting to think about the last time I cut checker plate ,and I think I used a panel saw blade . For some reason I believe I installed it backwards .
I’ve got lots of spare pieces to test I guess


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Guys I’m starting to think about the last time I cut checker plate ,and I think I used a panel saw blade . For some reason I believe I installed it backwards .
> I’ve got lots of spare pieces to test I guess


that'd work if the plate was very thin vinyl....


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

That's what the Aluminum siding guys used to do (the blade in reverse I mean).


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> that'd work if the plate was very thin vinyl....


That’s exactly how I cut vinyl, and it’s making me wonder if that memory is getting me confused with cutting aluminum. 
I’m almost thinking that I used a panel blade in the normal direction when I cut aluminum.

I’m heading to HD right now , and maybe I’ll just buy the right blade. Checked with Home Hardware ,and they has gotten rid of most of their Freud lineup in favour of Diablo also . 
Their motto should be , go cheap or go home


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Rick for cutting something soft turning the blade around is okay but not for something hard. I used to do that when trimming metal roofing flush at the eaves of the roof but I had teeth get thrown off doing it so I quit and started using metal cut off blades for a circ saw. I keep an old B & D just for cutting metal. It's slow going but the edges are clean and straight that way.

The solder that holds the teeth on a blade is designed to cushion the joint between the blade and teeth to the impact that happens when the tooth makes contact. It's not designed to keep the tooth from breaking away when cutting in the wrong rotation. My advice: NEVER use the blade in the wrong rotation. You could lose an eye or get a serious puncture wound.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> That's what the Aluminum siding guys used to do (the blade in reverse I mean).


not a good plan IMO...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Rick for cutting something soft turning the blade around is okay but not for something hard. I used to do that when trimming metal roofing flush at the eaves of the roof but I had teeth get thrown off doing it so I quit and started using metal cut off blades for a circ saw. I keep an old B & D just for cutting metal. It's slow going but the edges are clean and straight that way.
> 
> The solder that holds the teeth on a blade is designed to cushion the joint between the blade and teeth to the impact that happens when the tooth makes contact. It's not designed to keep the tooth from breaking away when cutting in the wrong rotation. My advice: NEVER use the blade in the wrong rotation. You could lose an eye or get a serious puncture wound.


I never turn carbide blades around , only this panel saw blade that has no welded teeth on it . 
Last year I was trying to cut wood on my table saw and I’m having a tough time and there’s smoke everywhere.
Then I realize my panel saw blade which was installed backwards from previously cutting plastic was still in place . Didn’t cut wood worth a darn lol


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> not a good plan IMO...


I can't remember but they may well have been using non-carbide tipped blades. Doesn't really matter anymore; it wasn't me doing it and I'm retired in any case... 
(Does anyone even use Aluminum siding anymore??? Seems like Hardie has pretty much taken over the siding industry.)


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> I can't remember but they may well have been using non-carbide tipped blades. Doesn't really matter anymore; it wasn't me doing it and I'm retired in any case...
> (Does anyone even use Aluminum siding anymore??? Seems like Hardie has pretty much taken over the siding industry.)


Hardie it is w/ the shears...

.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

DaninVan said:


> I can't remember but they may well have been using non-carbide tipped blades. Doesn't really matter anymore; it wasn't me doing it and I'm retired in any case...
> (Does anyone even use Aluminum siding anymore??? Seems like Hardie has pretty much taken over the siding industry.)


Good point , and Hardie board is a lot more hardy too


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

For many years I cut aluminum (mostly extrusion) with non-ferrous 80 or 100 tooth blades on a radial arm saw. I always used a (wax?) stick for lubrication. You may want to get some of that, Rick.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

TenGees said:


> For many years I cut aluminum (mostly extrusion) with non-ferrous 80 or 100 tooth blades on a radial arm saw. I always used a (wax?) stick for lubrication. You may want to get some of that, Rick.


That’s interesting,as I was just reading about using wax . It’s new to me


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## jrm (Feb 12, 2020)

*Diablo miter saw blades*

I used the diablo 12” medium aluminium blade on the miter saw. It was amazing for the new aluminum railing on the deck. I could cut a 1/16” long piece off of thin walled railing without collapsing it. For the thicker plate I take several cuts up to 1/4” deep at a time. I also bought the diablo Trex blade for the decking. I am equally impressed with it.


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## st8yd (May 10, 2011)

Yes the lube works good it is also for keeping the aluminum from building up on the blade.
I don't know who the idiot was that came up with turning the blade backwards but it's all wrong! (I was taught that too years ago)
If you have the circular saw in a jig it works better to pull the saw backwards for aluminum siding, but with the blade turning the right direction. (like on a radial arm saw) 

I have often put a cheap 7 1/4" blade in the table saw when cutting aluminum or hardy board.

But the carbide blade for cutting aluminum works the best.


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## hebeme (Jan 10, 2014)

Actually, Diablo is Freud’s lower price brand. It is made in the same Italian factory as the standard Freud blades, using the same processes, just a different steel. Still a Freud!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Jon; welcome!
Washington State; you have some neighbor members here.


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## johnjory (Sep 19, 2013)

I don't get the joke. Diablo blades are made by Freud. And they are good. I use the 7-1/4" blades on my table saw. Yes, they are for a circular saw but they really work well on a table saw and the 1/16" kerf saves a lot of wood especially when one is cutting ebony, bubinga and wenge. They will not cut more than 5/4 boards but I have use the ripping 7-1/4" one to cut oak and the cut surface isn't bad at all.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well what a freaking mess ! This Diable blade made for aluminum worked , but the shards of aluminum flew for 25’ .
Took my bibs off and brushed myself off as best I could . Vacuumed the floor in the garage , and I can still see glittery pieces of steel in my house regardless.

Had to take a file as it still required a little deburring where the cut was . Hate to do this very often . 
I was almost tempted to try my non carbide panel saw blade in [email protected] , as I swear is was just as good a cut .
Could have used a feather board also ,as the aluminum sure likes to jump a lot as you cut


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I have cut 1/8 aluminum with carbide tip saw blade. Did nice clean job. Now last year I cut steel roofing with a steel cutting blade from Harvard freight cut great no sharp edges.


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

DaninVan said:


> I can't remember but they may well have been using non-carbide tipped blades. Doesn't really matter anymore; it wasn't me doing it and I'm retired in any case...
> (Does anyone even use Aluminum siding anymore??? Seems like Hardie has pretty much taken over the siding industry.)


Aluminum siding is passe, it ruins radio reception and transmission, and corrodes, especially at the cut ends, Vinyl siding is much better. btw, I used an 18" saw blade on a Delta industrial table saw to easily cut 1/2" aluminum, the blade had large reliefs on all sides of the teeth behind the cutting surface, which eliminated binding and sticking when a wax stick was also used. cutting aluminum this way required a full leather setup and a full face shield, as the cut aluminum chips could penetrate your skin!.. cutting aluminum on a bandsaw or shearing press is much safer..:smile:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

radios said:


> Aluminum siding is passe, it ruins radio reception and transmission, and corrodes, especially at the cut ends, Vinyl siding is much better. btw, I used an 18" saw blade on a Delta industrial table saw to easily cut 1/2" aluminum, the blade had large reliefs on all sides of the teeth behind the cutting surface, which eliminated binding and sticking when a wax stick was also used. cutting aluminum this way required a full leather setup and a full face shield, as the cut aluminum chips could penetrate your skin!.. cutting aluminum on a bandsaw or shearing press is much safer..:smile:


I had a brand new face shield ,and let me tell you it was necessary. Had the pant legs of my bibs over my boots to make sure I didn’t get any shards in there .

Would be so much easier if the guys here in town took more pride in there work .
The pieces of of diamond checker plate I get off them look like hell.

We had an awesome guy here in town ,and Wayne and his daughter did everything to perfection . Unfortunately he retired . Wish I bought his cutting machine thingy


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Well what a freaking mess ! This Diable blade made for aluminum worked , but the shards of aluminum flew for 25’ .
> Took my bibs off and brushed myself off as best I could . Vacuumed the floor in the garage , and I can still see glittery pieces of steel in my house regardless.
> 
> Had to take a file as it still required a little deburring where the cut was . Hate to do this very often .
> ...


I guess the radial-arm saw kinda cuts away from you because the cutting I did wasn't nearly as bad as you describe. I was doing mostly cross-cut miters though. When I did do ripping, I always lowered the nose of the blade guard till it just cleared the material. The lube that I used was in a tube something like a tube of caulking (without the tip), I would just run the teeth through the end of the stick, before a cut.


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## graeme.c.payne (Jun 21, 2017)

radios said:


> Aluminum siding is passe, it ruins radio reception and transmission, and corrodes, especially at the cut ends, Vinyl siding is much better.


Also, aluminum siding gets dented very badly in a good hailstorm - looks ugly after that.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

graeme.c.payne said:


> Also, aluminum siding gets dented very badly in a good hailstorm - looks ugly after that.


Sustained cold, wind, hail and UV is it's demise...
Hardie wins every time...


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