# making a router table and have some questions



## skyliner (May 15, 2011)

hi there, i just bought a router. its a skil 1-3/4 hp









i am gonna buy a old table and make a router table. i will be using templates and a bushing for cutting the wood.

heres my question, what do i need to convert my router to a table router? do i just need to pull off the clear thing on the bottom?

another question, will a bushing fit on my router? is so what type? 

thanks in advanced


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi, welcome to the forum


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Skyliner:

Welcome to the Router Forums!

There are different ways to mount the router. 

1. Remove the acrylic sub-base and screw the router base to the underside of the table top. This needs the top to be somewhat thin around where the base is mounted -- to reduce the loss of bit height.

2. Remove the acrylic sub-base and clamp the router base to the underside of the table top, using toggle clamps. Like the first solution, this requires a somewhat thin top where the base is mounted.

3. Get a suitable router lift and mounting plate. This eliminates the thin table top, but does need a sizable opening in the table top.

4. Make one's own router lift. 

Just some of the possibilities.

Cassandra


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi skyliner

Here's just one more way to get the job done quick and easy and to keeo the cost down,pickup one of the Milescrafts base plate, the Milescraft base plates are 7" OD the norm just a little bit bigger than the base on the router.
Remove the base plate that came with your router and put in back in the box with the other parts for your router, now use the Milescraft base plate to hang the router upside down in your new table, it's a very easy job and you can use the template guides on your router table and still use up to 2" OD bits.

You can also use the brass guides on your router table if you want..

Amazon.com: Milescraft 1211 Base Plate Metal-Nose Bushing Set for Routers: Home Improvement

9 Piece Router Template Guide Set

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4883-small-router-table.html


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skyliner said:


> hi there, i just bought a router. its a skil 1-3/4 hp
> 
> 
> i am gonna buy a old table and make a router table. i will be using templates and a bushing for cutting the wood.
> ...


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

You will find STICKY threads showing you how to make a new sub base plate that will accept PC or Oak Park style buide bushings and how to install a mounting plate in your table top. This will help you get routing quickly, after all... the purpose is to build projects not spend a long time or a lot of money getting set up.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hey, Bob, thanks! I keep forgetting that one, for some reason. Good technique.

Cassandra


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cassandra

Thanks , I post so many I forget sometimes too  so many go off the deep end when making one ,it's not hard when making a router table, it's just a apple box so to speak..I keep forgetting the golden rule, make it in the KISS way and you will use it.


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Cassandra said:


> Hey, Bob, thanks! I keep forgetting that one, for some reason. Good technique.
> 
> Cassandra


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## skyliner (May 15, 2011)

thanks for all the replys!

my last question is which bushings will fit on the base of my router?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

skyliner said:


> thanks for all the replys!
> 
> my last question is which bushings will fit on the base of my router?


Hi Sky - you will need this adapter, then you can use any of the PC style (two piece) bushings
Amazon.com: Skil RAS140 Templet Guide Adapter: Home Improvement

Unfortunately, it seems to be out of stock at Amazon. Try ordering it through a dealer. If that fails, you can use this kit from milescraft and replace the Skil baseplate with the one from the kit.
http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-12...ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1305597743&sr=1-9


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## skyliner (May 15, 2011)

ok, so i just bought the adapter. 

but im abit confused on bushings, i notice they have a OD, and ID. the bit i was planning on getting has a 1/2'' collet. and the bit itself is also 1/2''. so the bushings ID would have to be 1/2'' right? but the OD will be bigger than the bit making the cut from my template slightly bigger. 

what do i need to do? do i need to buy a bit with a 14'' collet and a 1/2'' bit?

could somebody please explain this?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

skyliner said:


> ok, so i just bought the adapter.
> 
> but im abit confused on bushings, i notice they have a OD, and ID. the bit i was planning on getting has a 1/2'' collet. and the bit itself is also 1/2''. so the bushings ID would have to be 1/2'' right? but the OD will be bigger than the bit making the cut from my template slightly bigger.
> 
> ...


Hi Sky - I've just read back through your posts. I guess we're about even in the confusion department so I'm not gonna recommend buying anything until I figure out what we're doing. 
I understand you are wanting to mount your router in a table, I don't understand how you are planning on doing it. Are you bolting it directly to the table and want to do a relief on the bottom of the table? Are you going to be using a router plate?

You are right about the difference in bushing OD and bit diameter making an offset in template size which needs to be accounted for in subsequent operations. Collet size is immaterial. These computations can get confusing until you get used to using and understanding how the bushing system works. Essentially the offset is OD of the bushing minus the diameter of the bit with the result divided by 2. That is because 1/2 of the difference is on each side of the bit. Now, if you are making a female template, you will need to add the diameter of the bit to figure the amount of offset required for the subsequent operation to duplicate the original.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

skyliner said:


> ok, so i just bought the adapter.
> 
> but im abit confused on bushings, i notice they have a OD, and ID. the bit i was planning on getting has a 1/2'' collet. and the bit itself is also 1/2''. so the bushings ID would have to be 1/2'' right? but the OD will be bigger than the bit making the cut from my template slightly bigger.
> 
> ...


As a follow-on to John's post, let me add the following.

First, it is likely that you'll want to maintain both hand-held and table-mounted capability with your router. Some things are easier and safer to do hand-held, while for others, the table is the better way to go. 

If you use the Milescraft sub-base that Bob recommended for both the table mounting and for hand-held, you're set with respect to the guide bushing issue. The Milescraft guide bushings click/twist right into their sub-base. In that case, the adapter for the Skil sub-base won't be needed. 

The guide bushing/bit combo you select depends on the nature of the specific task. But, the ID of the bushing needs to be sufficiently larger than the bit so as to allow waste material to be extracted. Some would say, the larger the better, so you can see what is going on while you're making a cut. The OD of the guide bushing needs to be smaller than the smallest radius that it will encounter on a specific template, but otherwise doesn't matter much. Picking a combo (bit and bushing) that results in a convenient offset amount to make calculations easier is handy, though.

To add even more confusion, there are also collars that can be added to the guide bushing, slipping over the neck of the guide bushing to, in effect, increase the amount of offset. These are handy for certain types of operations, particularly inlay work. 

Best Sellers - Brass Router Inlay Kit

Woodworker.com: FIVE PIECE BRASS INLAY BUSHING SET


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

skyliner said:


> what do i need to do? do i need to buy a bit with a 14'' collet and a 1/2'' bit?
> 
> could somebody please explain this?


For following a template, you should use a bit with a bearing. Called a pattern bit.
You set the bit height so the bearing rides on the template. Cut the wood to be just a little over-sized. The bit will trim it to size.
Like these.

Freud Pattern Router Bits


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## skyliner (May 15, 2011)

would the bits with bearings be easier than using a bushing?

i had a friend that said the bearing would burn marks into his wood as he was using it, so thats why i have been looking for good bushings. but if a bearing will save me a lot of trouble, i will just go with it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

The bearing runs on the template just like a guide, so burn marks are not a big deal the norm..


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skyliner said:


> would the bits with bearings be easier than using a bushing?
> 
> i had a friend that said the bearing would burn marks into his wood as he was using it, so thats why i have been looking for good bushings. but if a bearing will save me a lot of trouble, i will just go with it.


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## skyliner (May 15, 2011)

ok, i will prolly just get a top bearing bit.

does anybody have a link for a top bearing bit with a blade that is at least 3'' long that is under $40? i cant seem to find anything


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

skyliner said:


> ok, i will prolly just get a top bearing bit.
> 
> does anybody have a link for a top bearing bit with a blade that is at least 3'' long that is under $40? i cant seem to find anything


Well, here ya go 
1 pc 1/4" SH 3" Blade Extra Long Straight Router Bit | eBay
Bit is a 3/8" so to make it a top bearing flush trim add a 1/4"ID x3/8" OD bearing and a lock collar on the shank. Eagle America has that bearing, part #196-0620.
Good Luck

Edit - you do realize that your template guide material needs to be higher than your cutting length, ie, 3", in order for a top bearing bit to have any guidance?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just put the template on the top of the project.

1 pc 1/4" SH 2-1/2" Extra Long Flush Trim Router Bit | eBay

1 pc 1/2" SH 3" Extra Long Flush Trim Router Bit | eBay

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## skyliner (May 15, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Well, here ya go
> Bit is a 3/8" so to make it a top bearing flush trim add a 1/4"ID x3/8" OD bearing and a lock collar on the shank. Eagle America has that bearing, part #196-0620.
> Good Luck
> 
> Edit - you do realize that your template guide material needs to be higher than your cutting length, ie, 3", in order for a top bearing bit to have any guidance?


how good is that bit? i will be using it the most out of any other bits, so i need it to last(i will be cutting thru baltic birch & wood glue).

i thing instead of a bearing, i will just use a bushing. i found one that will fit the yellow bit in your link.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

skyliner said:


> i thing instead of a bearing, i will just use a bushing. i found one that will fit the yellow bit in your link.


The bit quality is OK, at least all I have gotten from that vendor have been good. 
I don't understand " a bushing that will fit the bit"


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## skyliner (May 15, 2011)

jschaben said:


> The bit quality is OK, at least all I have gotten from that vendor have been good.
> I don't understand " a bushing that will fit the bit"


the bushing will work with the bit. they both have an OD of 3/8. and the ID is big enough for the shank to fit through.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi 

Just my 2 cents, you need room for the chips ( 3/8" bit ) should be a min.of 1/2" but more like @ 5/8" or 3/4"..I.D. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/1-pc-1-2-SH-2-B...521642766?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item1e63b2370e

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skyliner said:


> the bushing will work with the bit. they both have an OD of 3/8. and the ID is big enough for the shank to fit through.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

skyliner said:


> the bushing will work with the bit. they both have an OD of 3/8. and the ID is big enough for the shank to fit through.


Hmmm, from what I can tell, what you seem to be planning would be, at best, very dangerous, at worst, catastrophic. With the cutter not being able to pass through the bushing, you will have very very little of the shank captured in the collet. The plunge capability of the router is effectively eliminated. An accidental release of the plunge lock will force the cutter up through the bushing at some 20,000 rpm. results of same are usually less than pretty. 
I would strongly suggest a new plan.

Now, if you can describe EXACTLY what you are trying to accomplish, I'm sure we can help you find a way to do it quickly, cheaply and safely. Are you trying to route a relief in the bottom of the table to nest the router in and bolt the router directly to the table? Or, are you planning on a router plate and simply route a hole with a lip on it to support the plate? Or, something else? Please be as specific as you can.


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## skyliner (May 15, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Hmmm, from what I can tell, what you seem to be planning would be, at best, very dangerous, at worst, catastrophic. With the cutter not being able to pass through the bushing, you will have very very little of the shank captured in the collet. The plunge capability of the router is effectively eliminated. An accidental release of the plunge lock will force the cutter up through the bushing at some 20,000 rpm. results of same are usually less than pretty.
> I would strongly suggest a new plan.
> 
> Now, if you can describe EXACTLY what you are trying to accomplish, I'm sure we can help you find a way to do it quickly, cheaply and safely. Are you trying to route a relief in the bottom of the table to nest the router in and bolt the router directly to the table? Or, are you planning on a router plate and simply route a hole with a lip on it to support the plate? Or, something else? Please be as specific as you can.


my router doesn't have plunge, will it still be too dangerous?


what i am trying to do is. the template will slide along the table, and the piece of wood will be bolted on top of the the template. i will need a bushing or bearing so i can get perfect cuts. 

i am planning on routing in a place for the acrylic baseplate so it sits flush with the table. then i will put the router on the bottom of the table.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

skyliner said:


> my router doesn't have plunge, will it still be too dangerous?
> 
> 
> what i am trying to do is. the template will slide along the table, and the piece of wood will be bolted on top of the the template. i will need a bushing or bearing so i can get perfect cuts.
> ...


Hi - So all you really want is a hole in the table that the baseplate will sit in, flush with table top. Since the baseplate on your router is round, all you really need is a circle cutting jig which is easily made. 
Before I get into that though, looking at your router, it doesn't look like the baseplate is enough larger than the aluminum base to support the router. If the hole is the exact size of the base plate, will the router fall through?
Get back to us on that, we can take this one step at a time and get you going

Edit - Oh yeah, I still wouldn't recommend a 3/8 bushing with a 3/8 bit. You probably couldn't get enough shank into the collet to safely run it and if you did, the collet nut would very likely be in contact with the bushing nut. 3" of razor sharp carbide spinning around at 20,000 or so rpm is really pretty scary under the best conditions.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

You would be better off using a 1/2" shank, 1/2" dia. bit, without a bearing. You can use a 3/4" OD guide, and make the template 1/8" smaller than the finished product. The template would then be on the bottom of the stock and ride against the guide. The 1/2" shank would be MUCH safer to use. Make the template as thick as the guide would be above the table.

Freud makes a 1/2" x 2 1/2" tall bit. 3" is a stretch. You could then use a bearing flush trim bit to do the last 1/2" of stock. with the bearing riding on what has already been trimmed to size.
http://www.freudtools.com/p-59-double-flute.aspx
http://www.freudtools.com/p-128-bearing-flush-trim-bits.aspx

Be aware that plywood isn't the easiest material to use a router on.


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## skyliner (May 15, 2011)

jschaben said:


> Before I get into that though, looking at your router, it doesn't look like the baseplate is enough larger than the aluminum base to support the router. If the hole is the exact size of the base plate, will the router fall through?
> Get back to us on that, we can take this one step at a time and get you going


what i was thinking is make the baseplate sit flush with the table, but the hole would be big enough for the bit to stick through. but not so bit that the whole baseplate falls through. then the screws would go through the table and into the router. my only problem is the screws are too short.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

skyliner said:


> what i was thinking is make the baseplate sit flush with the table, but the hole would be big enough for the bit to stick through. but not so bit that the whole baseplate falls through. then the screws would go through the table and into the router. my only problem is the screws are too short.


Hi - OK. You really don't need the baseplate when you're attached to the table. Screws are easy, most hardware stores will fix you up with the length you need. Only thing is they will likely need to be metric. All you need is about an inch and a half hole for the bit to stick through and 2 to 4 countersunk holes around it to attach the the router. Just remove the baseplate and use the holes in the base. You can use the plastic subbase as a template for locating the mounting holes. The biggewt downside is you will loose some depth of cut depending on the table thickness. If that's a problem for you, there are ways around working around that also. Meanwhile, with a good straight 2x4 clamped to the table for a fence, you'd be off an running anyway.


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## Racer2007 (Nov 3, 2010)

skyliner, if you do a goggle search for router guide bushings you will find all the info (and more) that you need to use them. You have to account for the offset of the bit to the outside of the bushing when you make your template inorder for the final size to be right.


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