# Refinishing ash kitchen cabinet questions



## Jailbreak (Mar 1, 2008)

I am getting ready to tackle refinishing 35 year old kitchen cabinets. They were originally custom made using 3/4 inch solid core ash plywood. There is a long term buildup of surface dirt/stains from cooking smoke and oils and also the clearcoat finsh (I assume it is polyurethane) is flaking off in some spots from exposure to steam over the years. I want to strip and refinish the cabinets to return them to their original look (as much as possible). My questions are these. I have seen products that were promoted to do a one step grease and finish removal. Do any of these products work effectively? If so which ones would you recommend? If the best approach would be to first clean the wood and strip the finish as a second step, what products would be best to remove the dirt & grease and then what product would be best for stripping the finish?

Thanks,
Jailbreak


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

James; if the cabinetry is over 35 yrs. old, and made in a cabinet shop, then the finish is almost certainly lacquer, sprayed on.
I know I've mentioned *Mohawk* before (several times probably) but what you're looking for is what they _do_; refinishing materials. I've restored cabinetry using their cleaners, strippers, and aerosol finishes. I was pretty damned impressed! 
It's funny you mentioned this as I'm looking at doing another project like yours, as we speak.
Slightly OT: I could have cried the other day. I was dropping a load of rotten wood off at the dump, and spotted an entire Ash kitchen, in mint condition, that _somebody had thrown out!_ I couldn't believe my eyes; what? They couldn't put an ad in the local paper and find a new home for the cabinets?! Waste like that makes my blood boil.
The dump bends over backwards to make it easy for people to re-purpose stuff. They even put up a sort of warehouse they call 'The Share Shed'. Criminal waste.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Sorry, James, here's a link...
Cleaners & Surface Prep - Mohawk Finishing


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Hi James,

I refinished 4 sets of kitchen cabinets that the people tried to do themselves, after they had given up because they had a total mess on their hands.

First remove the doors, drawers and hardware before you begin. This may be obvious but none of these people removed anything. One even left dishes and food in the cabinets!

When you strip the cabinets take your time and don't try to do too much at one time. This is a common mistake some people make, so work on a door face or 2, get them striped then move to the next 1 or 2. Too often they try to do all the doors at the same time and buy the time they get 1 or 2 striped the finish on the other ones has started to set up again and the mess begins. Try to work sections of the cabinets, end panel, face frame, finish that, move to the next one.

Mohawk products are good and I have used them but they can be a bit pricey. Sorry I can't recommend any thing other than the Mohawk products but we bought our strippers a case of 4 - 5 gallon jugs and the supplier is no longer in business. I have used strippers from Walmart like Strip Ease and they do a decent job. If you get a product like Strip Ease get the formula for clear finishes. There are newer products available that are more user friendly and maybe someone can recommend something else.

*No mater what you use work in a well ventilated area, use chemical resistant gloves, and be aware of potential fire hazards from pilot lights and such.*

Work safe,
Mike


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## Jailbreak (Mar 1, 2008)

Thanks for the tips,

Is there a test I can do to determine what type of clear coat finish I have (laquer vs. polyurethane)? After examining the surfaces I think most of the areas just need to be thoroughly cleaned and not completely refinished. In the areas where the clear coat is flaking off I will need to do some sanding and refinishing so I will need to match the old clear coat substance.

Thanks,
James


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

James,
If the finish is deteriorating and you finish over it it may give you problems, or may not.

If there is not very many areas that are peeling you might just clean every thing real good and finish over those areas that seam to be problem areas.

If they do try to start peeling again then you could go back and refinish just those areas. It might be that they are in high heat or high humidity spots and finishing over them may take care of the problem.

Good luck on your project either way you go.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

James, you didn't mention whether the cabinetry was Euro style, or face frames? That makes a lot of difference in the volume of wood to be restored.
I'm absolutely in agreement with Mike's advice on how to proceed. I would however suggest that you use one of the surface washes on the entire exterior (remove all the hardware first) before you make your final decision on how much or how little you need to restore.
Cheers, and good luck!
-Dan 
The main reason I suggest Mohawk is because they understand how the various products react with each other; they're a system. If you bring in another brand's product, you won't know ahead of time if you've set yourself up for a major contamination issue. They're also very generous with their help and advice (at least that's been my own experience).


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> The main reason I suggest Mohawk is because they understand how the various products react with each other; they're a system. If you bring in another brand's product, you won't know ahead of time if you've set yourself up for a major contamination issue. They're also very generous with their help and advice (at least that's been my own experience).


James, as Dan says Mohawk is generous with their help. They have, in my opinion, gone out of their way to answer any concerns I had and even consulted with the their chemist on one question I had for them. They are really good to work with.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Any suggestions on a cleaning solution? I do suggest trying to see whats there before undergoing a complete finish restoration. Coffee pots are murder on cabinets but you might need to just touch up if the flaking you are mentioning is minimal. but you will not know until the cabinets have been cleaned.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I thought I posted a link to the products?! OK, now I'm officially senile....
Let's try that again (the dog is my witness this time):
Cleaners & Surface Prep - Mohawk Finishing
If the original finish was a nitro cellulose lacquer, and it almost certainly would have been, Mohawk has aerosol finishes which are absolutely compatible...touching up spot damage is a piece of cake, relative to stripping the whole kitchen. Video tutorial is online.
18-Lacquer Based Aerosols for Repairs by Mohawk Finishing Products.mpg - YouTube
If there is an outlet near you just take one of the worst doors in with you.


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## Jailbreak (Mar 1, 2008)

Thanks for the responses. I plan to clean all of the cabinet surfaces before making final decions about how much refinishing to do. My goal is not to change the color of the finish so I had planned to only touch up the finish in the areas where the clear coat is flaking off. Does anyone know a way I can test the clear coat finish to determine if it's laquer or if it's polyurethane?

Thanks,
James


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## Jailbreak (Mar 1, 2008)

Great idea Dan. There is a Mohawk supplier reasonably close to me. I'll take one of my worst cabinet doors with me on Monday when I go to their store. Hopefully they will assist me with testing the Mohawk products.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Dan
Didn't mean to upset you Was just trying to direct james back to cleaning and assesing the damage first. Cigarette smoke is a very tacky residue I have cleaned it off with laquer thinner and with OOPs and Goof Off but your Mohawk referal must be much better if it inspires such loyalty in you

but the sluffing described by james is usually the result of the coffee pot but will not know for sure without cleaning first which should lift off any loose finish


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Not Upset*



paduke said:


> Dan
> Didn't mean to upset you Was just trying to direct james back to cleaning and assessing the damage first. Cigarette smoke is a very tacky residue I have cleaned it off with lacquer thinner and with OOPs and Goof Off but your Mohawk referal must be much better if it inspires such loyalty in you
> 
> but the sluffing described by james is usually the result of the coffee pot but will not know for sure without cleaning first which should lift off any loose finish



:0 You didn't upset me, other than you made me think I was losing my marbles! 
I was _sure_ I posted a link to the cleaners(?)...
I just recently had a bad experience using a cleaner I wasn't familiar with (30 Seconds), on a painted balustrade. I primed the worn areas after cleaning thoroughly... _the primer won't dry completely._ Now I have to strip it and start over; not a happy camper here. 
As I was saying, and this applies to anybody's product lines, if you use their recommended process then you've got both somebody to consult, and to yell at, when things go sideways. If you don't, then they have the perfect escape clause.
Cheers,
-Dan


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