# Stanley Router spare parts?



## Barry the Builder (Dec 19, 2008)

Hello,
almost new to the Forum! I have really enjoyed reading a lot of stuff here about routing. The poll on how many routers you have was very entertaining!

Now to the question:
Last autumn I bought a lot of tools from a derelict workshop (spindle moulder (shaper), jointer, bandsaw, etc. etc.) The buy also included an old Stanley router with the following insignia:

Type-Model: H-260-A
U.S. Pat. 2897302
Volts 230 AC/DC
AMPS: 4,5
Serial Nr: 76486

Unlike the Stanley router another forum member asked advice on a , this one only seems to lack the collet itself, but not the nut. Of course it would be possible to grind or turn another brand to fit, but if there still are suppliers with such items in store.

I really hope someone out there could help me!


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

I am sure that there is somebody can give you ideas,might be an older comercial model. By the way, welcome to Router Forums  I just checked a little bit in the earilier post and found one that states that Stanley was purchased by Bosch. It may or may not help, But my guess is that it might be better in the long run to invest in a new router. I"ll guess that it is quite heavey, and you may not be able to mate it with any newer accessories


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## Barry the Builder (Dec 19, 2008)

Thanks!

Well, you are surely right about it being a better investment to buy a newer router. I have got five others, so the interest in this one is more out of curiosity, and a feeling that it is a pity to throw a decent tool away just because of a missing collet. 

I have also read about Bosch buying Stanley Powertools in the early 80's, and I did email Bosch, but in Europe, and they said they did not know about that merge. Perhaps it would be a better idea to get in touch with Bosch USA? 

The second best alternative would be to either take a look at a collar from another Stanley router of the same model, or looking at pictures and get the measurements.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Barry

Take the router to a small machine shop, it's not a big deal to make one, it will not be cheap but if you want a working door stop that be the way to get it done 


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Barry the Builder said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Well, you are surely right about it being a better investment to buy a newer router. I have got five others, so the interest in this one is more out of curiosity, and a feeling that it is a pity to throw a decent tool away just because of a missing collet.
> 
> ...


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## Barry the Builder (Dec 19, 2008)

Thanks Bob! 

Ok, that's the way to go! I'll report from the life of the door stop in the near future!


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

That Stanley router must be at least 25 years old by now.
Derek.


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## Barry the Builder (Dec 19, 2008)

Surely you are right about that! I've got several other machines of the cast iron type (though not routers of course) that would make this router seem new. 

As mentioned above, it is not its supposed performance that has led me to restore this router, but rather pure interest in old tools.


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## Barry the Builder (Dec 19, 2008)

I have now bought a Stanley router collet on Ebay, I will report back when they've arrived.


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## wdelliott (Dec 17, 2006)

*Stanley 260*

I saw your post about a Stanley 260 router. I just posted a note inquiring how to lock down the router to change the bit. I've stared at this thing for over an hour trying to figure this out. Can you help me?


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## Barry the Builder (Dec 19, 2008)

To start with that wasn't an issue for me, because there were no collet in the nut. Well, now I've got a collet and just the other day realized the problem. How to tighten it? We're in the same boat here wdelliott. One could always put a screwdriver in the fan wings, but that can hardly be the method the manufacturer had in thought. 

Anyone else have an idea?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Barry

" screwdriver in the fan wings"

I can't think of a quicker way to turn a router into a door stop than putting a screwdriver into the fan to lock or unlock the router bit.. 

If you can't find the wrench flats on the harbor shaft you can put some on with a file or Dremel tool...but don't stick a screwdriver into the router.

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Barry the Builder said:


> To start with that wasn't an issue for me, because there were no collet in the nut. Well, now I've got a collet and just the other day realized the problem. How to tighten it? We're in the same boat here wdelliott. One could always put a screwdriver in the fan wings, but that can hardly be the method the manufacturer had in thought.
> 
> Anyone else have an idea?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

derek willis said:


> That Stanley router must be at least 25 years old by now.
> Derek.


Derek, what are you talking about. 25 years young is just nicely broken in. My "new" Makita is older than that. I still have a "Wolf Cub" 1/4" electric drill from the 1050s. It still works too.

Really, and with your experience too! 

Allthunbs


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Barry the Builder said:


> To start with that wasn't an issue for me, because there were no collet in the nut. Well, now I've got a collet and just the other day realized the problem. How to tighten it? We're in the same boat here wdelliott. One could always put a screwdriver in the fan wings, but that can hardly be the method the manufacturer had in thought.
> 
> Anyone else have an idea?


Take a look around the router. You're looking for a small hole at the top of the armature or at the bottom. It should be slightly above the bearing points, although it could be between the bearing and the collet. Take a 4d nail and stick it into the hole. You may have to rotate the armature to find the matching hole. That should lock the armature solidly. Don't forget to take the nail out.

Allthunbs


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## Barry the Builder (Dec 19, 2008)

The screwdriver idea isn't really a good one, I admit, though these fan wings are indeed the thickest I've seen on any router. I will take a look for the hole of course.

Allthunbs, you are right, 25 years isn't that much! My spindle moulder is at least three times that...


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Not knowing the router, The only thing that i would check is 1, on the end of the shaft, just before the nut, is there two small flat spots on the shaft. This would be for a thin wrench. #2, Is there a small hole anyware on the shaft that you could push a small rod through? sometimes, these are on the beginning of the shaft. Sometimes the router body will have a half a hole. Check there out.


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## Barry the Builder (Dec 19, 2008)

Well, the problem is solved, at least with my Stanleys. Last Friday another Stanley router arrived from British Ebay, complete with instructions. My three Stanleys have the same on/off switch in yellow plastic. On the switch itself is written in relief "lock", which I have seen but thought had to do with locking the button in on-mode. However, the instruction told me that to lock the shaft, push the button upwards and then pull it out. Voila! The shaft is locked. The movement is about 1/8" or 3mm in either direction.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

allthunbs said:


> Derek, what are you talking about. 25 years young is just nicely broken in. My "new" Makita is older than that. I still have a "Wolf Cub" 1/4" electric drill from the 1050s. It still works too.
> 
> Really, and with your experience too!
> 
> Allthunbs


I've a neat little cast aluminium Desoutter that was made so small because it was designed to put 1/8" holes in WW2 aircraft wings for pop rivets and for a lot of them there wasn't much space to get the drill in. From the sublime to the ridiculous, when I was still in the UK I had a Thiel toolroom die miller with three axis power feeds and a chain drive that dated from the 1930's. It weighed a ton and three quarters and whilst we could get it on the truck at the UK end, I wasn't so sure of facilities at the Croatian end, so unfortunately, it stayed. It was a pity, as it was fully kitted out.

Cheers

Peter


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## major270000 (Feb 11, 2010)

wdelliott said:


> i saw your post about a stanley 260 router. I just posted a note inquiring how to lock down the router to change the bit. I've stared at this thing for over an hour trying to figure this out. Can you help me?


 yes turn router in off position and pull out lever and turn collet a little it will lock oush in when done roland


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## major270000 (Feb 11, 2010)

wdelliott said:


> i saw your post about a stanley 260 router. I just posted a note inquiring how to lock down the router to change the bit. I've stared at this thing for over an hour trying to figure this out. Can you help me?


 yes turn router in off position and pull out lever and turn collet a little it will lock out push in when done


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Barry the Builder said:


> Well, the problem is solved, at least with my Stanleys. Last Friday another Stanley router arrived from British Ebay, complete with instructions. My three Stanleys have the same on/off switch in yellow plastic. On the switch itself is written in relief "lock", which I have seen but thought had to do with locking the button in on-mode. However, the instruction told me that to lock the shaft, push the button upwards and then pull it out. Voila! The shaft is locked. The movement is about 1/8" or 3mm in either direction.


Eric:

I don't have a Stanley router but I'm sure at some point someone else will. Would you be so kind as to take some photographs and post them to this thread so some poor guy with the same problem further down will have the benefit of your experience.

Thanks


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## Dirk Zieher (Feb 12, 2010)

*Collet*

Dirk in TX
I have a 1/2 '' collet off off a 15 amp stanley router. I no longer have the whole router. The collet has a different taper on each side. If it is the right type I could send it to you.


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## nighthawk55756 (Mar 27, 2010)

wdelliott said:


> I saw your post about a Stanley 260 router. I just posted a note inquiring how to lock down the router to change the bit. I've stared at this thing for over an hour trying to figure this out. Can you help me?


push the button on top of rhe router it is maybe black in color


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## nighthawk55756 (Mar 27, 2010)

also I forgot some use a combo lock switch where you push in the switch lever


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