# Ridgid R4510 10" Table Saw Upgrades



## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

I've had some success with the router table insert for my Ridgid R4510 Portable 10" Table Saw but there have been some shortcomings that are common with this grade of saw in general and this particular model specifically.

The first item on the list is the miter gauge. There was one glaring issue that had to be corrected and it is common with most table saws in this and some higher grades; miter gauge slot slop. I had made a correction to this earlier by peening the bar but the dimples were rather small and being steel they were leaving scratches in the sides of the aluminum miter gauge slot so I knocked them down with an Arkansas stone and went back to the drawing board. I liked the adjustable bars that can be obtained from various suppliers but being cost conscious (read cheap) I figured I could do as good or better for less.

I found some nylon oval end 4-40 combo hex socket/slot head set screws on ebay. for less than $9.00 for 100 shipped.










Down side was the hex socket was for a .035 hex wrench but I had one in a micro set and the screw does have a slot for a jewelers screwdriver as a back up.

I decided to install five roughly equally spaced along one side of the bar. That way as the bar exited either end there would be plenty of support to keep the bar firmly engaged. Also with all the screws crowding the bar to one side of the slot it would re-enforce of the accuracy of the gauge.

Here's a shot showing three toward the forward end. You can also see the remnants of the peen marks left after I knocked them down.









The process was fairly simple.

First I marked the locations with a center punch. Since the slot was t- shapped I made sure to keep the holes near the top to fully engage the slot sides. 
Then I used my drill press to drill the proper sized hole (#43 is preferred, closest I had was 3/32) for a 4-40 tap.
Then I drilled the back side for a thru hole a little over half way.
I tapped the over side, de-burred and I was good to go.










Adjusting was easy too. I started with the one a the forward end and adjusted for a slightly tight fit. Then I went to the other end and did the same then the other three in order from the back to the front. This made for a fairly tight fit but several passes along the miter slot and the action freed up nicely.

Now that the miter gauge is snug, true and square time to move on the the next upgrade ... an adjustable length miter gauge fence from a 24" length of 1030 sloted extrusion ...

GCG


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

Actually I just use a thin piece of slick-tape on the inside of the "T" (JET) and it has worked out great. Also used a diamond paste and wheel on a miniature grinder to smooth out some very unnecessary milling ridges. New miter - trip to Woodcraft.

Good luck - Baker


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

@Richard ... I had thought of something like that but since I was unsure of how quickly it would ware and need replacing I opted for something adjustable.

Onward ... I have a 24" length of 1030 from 80/20 that I've attached to the miter gauge. I've made a simple stop block and together they've proven their worth making some equal length pieces but I'd like something with the option of length adjustment in the event I'm faced with the need. There are three equal sized holes that run the length of the extrusion equally spaced along the vertical center line. The holes are slightly larger than the 13/64 drill bit I tested with but smaller than a 7/32. I bought a 4' length of 3/16" steel rod stock. Cut in half it will give me better that 18" of usable extension. I plan to make 45 degree cuts on each end with one offset for 1" to 1-1/2" excess to attach the rods to the top and bottom holes with epoxy. This will give me 3-1/2" to 4-1/2" of t-slot for a stop block on the extension. I'll drill and tap the back side of the top hole channel for a locking knob.

Thoughts before I cut?

GCG


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