# Trend Jig



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

This is just a jig that anyone can make,, I'm a big fan of the ski jig and use it all the time but it can't do it all but the Trend can,, cir.jig,pivot frame jig,ski jig, etc. see what it can do in the PDF file below and how it can be used.

I didn't want to pay 150.oo bucks for one so I said OK lets make one and I wanted to test it out..
http://www.amazon.com/Trend-PFJ-SET...ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1278182282&sr=1-1

I used some white *UHMW *stock I had around the shop for the beams and the guides/feet, that's the only hard part to make but with the right tools it's easy..
see snapshot for the tools needed to make them..but it can be made out of some hardwood as well..

And yes Harry the jig and router will take on the 40 mm guides as well  plus much more..

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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hey that's nice Bob. I like the nobs you made.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Bob, That looks like an interesting jig. I assume that the jig moves in a circle, and the the feet are rollers that follow the outside edge of the circle. is that right?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Howard

Here's little video on some of the some of the things it can do.
YouTube - Trend Pivot Frame Jig

I like it because you don't need to have that nasty center pin or 1/4" hole in the stock to make a nice clean cir.
It's almost like a* full *Set of forstner bits/hole saws all in one easy to make jig.

But do take the time to check out the PDF it can many neat things...
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dutchman 46 said:


> Bob, That looks like an interesting jig. I assume that the jig moves in a circle, and the the feet are rollers that follow the outside edge of the circle. is that right?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks James

I do like to make knobs 

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jlord said:


> Hey that's nice Bob. I like the nobs you made.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

You are da man Bj!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Beautifully made bob, as we all expect from you. It certainly would be a handy addition to the standard ski set-up but not a replacement for it.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Nice job Bob


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Greg

Thanks, you got me going when you posted the PDF file and tip for the Bob Cox book, by the way I should have a copy today  used from Amazon for 8.oo bucks but you know me Mr Cheap 

Shipping Details : betterworldbooks_
Order #: 104-9238246-8913013
Shipping Method: Standard Shipping
Shipping Preference: Group my items into as few shipments as possible
Subtotal of Items: $8.02
Shipping & Handling: $3.99
------
Total for this Order: $12.01 

http://www.amazon.com/Decorative-Ro...qid=1279025402&sr=8-1-fkmr0#reader_0941936449

Thanks aging 

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gregW said:


> Nice job Bob


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Harry

You are right it's not a replacement but it should come in very handy when I need to put in a 1/4" to 8" holes without the need for a center pivot hole in the stock, that's real plus for this jig plus it should be fun playing with the shop made indexing disk.. 

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harrysin said:


> Beautifully made bob, as we all expect from you. It certainly would be a handy addition to the standard ski set-up but not a replacement for it.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

That is neat, Bob. Another nice tool to pla aah- to work with :wub: If I ever get the time, and energy,. I will make one, or try!! Thanks Bob.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Bob

Nice job. Any particular reason for using UHMW for the beams? I understand it for the followers.

Cheers

Peter


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Good timing Bob! Woodcraft has the Trend T4 on sale for 99.00 and is offering FREE shipping to Canada till July 22! Time to get busy jig making!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Thanks
The UHMW was use because I had it on on hand  and because it's slick stuff and it's almost like using self locking nuts when it's taped out with threads..  it gabs the threads very well..

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istracpsboss said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> Nice job. Any particular reason for using UHMW for the beams? I understand it for the followers.
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just some more snapshots and the cam board and the short cams holding the project in place.. 



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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Hey Bob, I have a couple of questions for you:
1) I see you use threaded rod for your skis, (right terminology?), does this cause any interference as you move your router across the threads?

2) I also see you have the little Trend router, how do you like it, have you used it much?

Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jack

Yes, I did use all thread rod, it can be plain rod but the holes in the base of the router are not that clean and smooth and true so I did not see the need for it plus it would add 4 thumb screws items to the project to hold the bars in place in the beam bars, I don't plan on moving to side to side on the rods but it will move easy if needed with the all thread...it's only 5/16"-24 (8mm) rod so the gap on the threads is not that big, you could almost say it's plan rod..  but the error comes in to play with the slop in the holes in the base plate


I have about 36 hours on the Trend T4 router it's almost new but a great little VS plunge router..and runs great..with tons of power..

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Jack Wilson said:


> Hey Bob, I have a couple of questions for you:
> 1) I see you use threaded rod for your skis, (right terminology?), does this cause any interference as you move your router across the threads?
> 
> 2) I also see you have the little Trend which looks just like the Freud router, how do you like it, have you used it much?
> ...


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## Jack Wilson (Mar 14, 2010)

Thanks Bob, I edited my question after you quoted me I guess. I first saw the font that Trend uses over at WoodCraft, and for quite a while now thought it was a Freud, *which it isn't*. I don't know that Freud even makes one.

Any way as I understand your answer, you would recommend using the threaded rod. How about for a situation where the router _would_ be sliding back and forth on the rods? 

I have never used a router this way so some of these questions may seem a little crazy, sorry. I am curious and want to understand this tool accessory better.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jack


I do recommend using the threaded rod but you can use the plain rod also but the same error with come into play I thing with the slop in the holes in the base it's just not made to side on rods of any type..it's just made to clamp down on the rods...to hold them in place..and to keep them from moving ..

It's very much like the ski jig that you can see in my uploads and Harry got me hung on a year or two ago, it can be used for many,many router jobs..it's a neat tool you can make very easy..  and many members have have done that..

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Jack Wilson said:


> Thanks Bob, I edited my question after you quoted me I guess. I first saw the font that Trend uses over at WoodCraft, and for quite a while now thought it was a Freud, *which it isn't*. I don't know that Freud even makes one.
> 
> Any way as I understand your answer, you would recommend using the threaded rod. How about for a situation where the router _would_ be sliding back and forth on the rods?
> 
> I have never used a router this way so some of these questions may seem a little crazy, sorry. I am curious and want to understand this tool accessory better.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> Thanks
> The UHMW was use because I had it on on hand  and because it's slick stuff and it's almost like using self locking nuts when it's taped out with threads..  it gabs the threads very well..
> ...


Thanks Bob. That makes sense.

Cheers

Peter


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob, me old mate, surprise me by saying that you did the edge treatment using the set-up shown!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Nope the edge treatment was put in place with the router table I had in the scrap bin so I pulled it out and just clamped it in place to test and to show the rollers setup, the slot down the center of the board was put in place with this setup ..

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harrysin said:


> Bob, me old mate, surprise me by saying that you did the edge treatment using the set-up shown!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jay

Thanks for asking about the knobs in your email,,they where made on the Sears router lathe crafter, it's takes a bit of time to make them..

I just replace all of the knobs with some new ones to jazz it up just a little bit and to get all the same type plus a way to keep the price down on making one of jigs, all the knobs made for about $1.50 total with some pop bottle lids and tee nuts and some fiber glass resin..

It's true you can just buy them but it can add a lot of cost to the jig I would say about 25.oo dollars or so for them..

Here's a snapshot of the new knobs in place, if you need any help with the jig just ask.. 

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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Bob,
What brand of pop or liquid comes with those "Winged" lids? Pretty neat way to make friendly knobs. 
Whaddaya do, just pour 'em, drill 'em and tap 'em?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Gene

I just screw on a short bolt on a tee nut set the tee nut in the cap ,put in some fiber glass resin,come back in a hour or so take the bolt out and than drill a 3/16 " hole down the center of tee nut and than run a tap down the tee nut, the stud type are made the same way but faster to make with some threaded rod..

They come in many colors,here's just 3 of them 

NOS - Energy Drink

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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Thanks, Bob. 
Never seen that drink around here. But then, Scotch is my drink.:laugh: 
Gotta start searching the soft drink aisles.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Gene

I don't drink it but my boys do and they save all the lids for me , I'm a old gear head and a Pepsi drinker the norm and the 1st. time I saw it ,I said what heck is that in the soft drink aisles, they look just like a small tank of NOS.

nos oxide - Google Search

Hey Gene ,,by the way they make great adjustable feet for shop equipment and many other items in the shop almost like wheels, they slide very nice on the floor 

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Gene Howe said:


> Thanks, Bob.
> Never seen that drink around here. But then, Scotch is my drink.:laugh:
> Gotta start searching the soft drink aisles.


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## Damir 66 (Dec 18, 2009)

I use ski jig, but I don´t know for pivot frame jig.This is fantastic jig.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi DAMIR66

Thanks, you can also use it for a Mortise jig, that should ring a bell 
" pivot frame jig " = Cir. jig all in one jig.. see PDF/video file posted above.


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DAMIR66 said:


> I use ski jig, but I don´t know for pivot frame jig.This is fantastic jig.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Hi Bob,

I know what you mean. Most of the books I buy these days are used..it seems like they usually are in good as new condition, and it's my way of doing what I can to save the environment 

Amazon.com: Decorative Routing: Jigs & Techniques (9780941936446): Jack Cox: Books

Decorative Routing: Jigs & Techniques : (Jack Cox)






bobj3 said:


> Hi Greg
> 
> Thanks, you got me going when you posted the PDF file and tip for the Bob Cox book, by the way I should have a copy today  used from Amazon for 8.oo bucks but you know me Mr Cheap
> 
> ...


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Greg,
thanks for posting the link to Jack's book.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi


Just a quick review on the book called
Decorative Routing: Jigs & Techniques

I would give it 1 1/2 stars out of 5 stars.

If you like math you will enjoy the book, but it makes me recall the math teacher that took over the job of woodworking shop in high school, most of us would say ,,,what is he talking about ?,,,the book is like that and you must read it over and over and over to get it and most will not..more math than wood working I think..  the front cover and the back cover are the best pictures in the book  not much for show and tell.. 

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gregW said:


> Hi Bob,
> 
> I know what you mean. Most of the books I buy these days are used..it seems like they usually are in good as new condition, and it's my way of doing what I can to save the environment
> 
> ...


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> 
> Just a quick review on the book called
> ...




I had a totally different impression of the book.

I think in the introduction Jack noted that he was a retired consumer electronic technician and I suspect that he applied the same analytical and logical approach to his woodworking that he did to his trade. He didn’t appear to go overboard with mathematical formulas to me although he did include them in a few places along the way to help to illustrate the “why” reasoning behind the method that he chose to employ to accomplish a specific task. 

He also noted that he was an accomplished turner and I thought it was evident that his concept for the pivot frame jig and his whole approach to using his router evolved from his lathe work. In the book a lot of his projects seemed to be based on the relationship between circles and segments of circles…I’m not sure but maybe that’s what reminded you of your math teacher? 

I agree that he probably should have included more illustrations in the book but I thought that the descriptions he provided were very thorough and concise. Overall I thought he did a pretty good job of explaining the methods he used to create the projects that were included in the book.

I would give the book 3 stars out of 5 stars...but I have to admit that I do enjoy math


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi greg

Have you tried one of his projects in the book ?, I did and I got one hell of headache  from the math and making the extra items to make the easy project.. hahahahahaha.. one good picture is worth 1000 words.


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gregW said:


> I had a totally different impression of the book.
> 
> I think in the introduction Jack noted that he was a retired consumer electronic technician and I suspect that he applied the same analytical and logical approach to his woodworking that he did to his trade. He didn’t appear to go overboard with mathematical formulas to me although he did include them in a few places along the way to help to illustrate the “why” reasoning behind the method that he chose to employ to accomplish a specific task.
> 
> ...


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