# DIY Katie Dovetail Jig Build



## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

A while back Bob sparked my interest in taking a shot at building a DIY version of the Katie Dovetail Jig. We were getting close to year end and didn't know how big the annual bonus was going to be and I had to table the idea along with some other things to be sure we didn't dig too deep into the household budget cushion. Well the wife and I just celebrated our 30th wedding anniversary. We had a nice vacation on Dauphin Is. and she asked if she could pick out her gift and after some shopping settled on a very nice wood carving of two dolphins from one of the shops there. I told her I would be happiest with what I needed for the Dovetail Jig project so here we are.

First I ordered the dovetail and box joint forks from Sommerfeld Tools to use as patterns. Then I ordered an 18" length of 1030 80/20 for the backbone from Amazon. Still waiting on the 1030 but the forks came in and I picked some good candidates from the reclaimed red oak I have, planed them to 1/2" and ripped them to a little over 1-1/2" width to allow for some excess to remove with the pattern bit.










[/url] IMAG0103 by pat w1, on Flickr[/IMG]








[/url] IMAG0102 by pat w1, on Flickr[/IMG]








[/url] IMAG0104 by pat w1, on Flickr[/IMG]

This won't go quick. I tend to chip away at projects a little at a time. It's a hobby not a job for me. Relaxation and sawdust therapy.

... OH ... got a lucky break during the vacation. My wife was going through her e-mail and saw we had free tickets to one of the Biloxi casinos for the group "Yes". Great show.








[/url] IMAG0101 by pat w1, on Flickr[/IMG]

Overall a great Anniversary.

GCG


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Patrick, Your project seems to me to be quite interesting! You posted a sharpener build a while back and you did (IMHO) such a good job that I printed and laminated it. You know very well that good planning is what makes a project go well - so I feel confident that when this comes to full completion - it will be really something nice! Please keep this thread updated, as this is a very interesting project you are taking-on!
Take care my friend, Otis


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

If you are referring to the PDF I posted to one of Jerry's threads, the sharpener build was not mine. I found it during my own research on the subject. It was, to my knowledge, public domain but I'd be fibbing if I called it mine.

I will keep this updated with pics as progress permits. I have to work out the best way to register the mounting hole in the wood forks so they adjust identically to the commercial version ... every time. Right now I'm leaning toward matching the hole size and then a combination of double sided tape and a fitted dowel pin. The mounting hole in the Sommerfeld forks mic out to 9/32, I think, so I'll try chucking up a 3/8 dowel in the drill press and sand it down to fit. Then it's just a matter of drilling the hole in the wood fork to insure some overlap when the two are taped together. I'm going for 9 of each type to start with to get close to a 12" long joint with either, longer if I combine them.

GCG


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## Taco (Mar 5, 2013)

Well heck link the sharpening jig.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Taco said:


> Well heck link the sharpening jig.


Here where I posted it.

http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/39377-jerry-changed-his-mind-2.html#post319400

GCG


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Pat

The dowel pins are not needed bolt the master fork to the wood stock and the bolt will do all the work for you..,just drill the hole and counter sink it in the new part,take about 2 mins to make a copy of the fork with a good trim bit.

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GulfcoastGuy said:


> If you are referring to the PDF I posted to one of Jerry's threads, the sharpener build was not mine. I found it during my own research on the subject. It was, to my knowledge, public domain but I'd be fibbing if I called it mine.
> 
> I will keep this updated with pics as progress permits. I have to work out the best way to register the mounting hole in the wood forks so they adjust identically to the commercial version ... every time. Right now I'm leaning toward matching the hole size and then a combination of double sided tape and a fitted dowel pin. The mounting hole in the Sommerfeld forks mic out to 9/32, I think, so I'll try chucking up a 3/8 dowel in the drill press and sand it down to fit. Then it's just a matter of drilling the hole in the wood fork to insure some overlap when the two are taped together. I'm going for 9 of each type to start with to get close to a 12" long joint with either, longer if I combine them.
> 
> GCG


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

A little progress.

Got the fork blanks cut and drilled.








[/url] IMG_3798 by pat w1, on Flickr[/IMG]

I picked the narrowest piece and found the center line then the acceptable range for the hole and centered it. I marked the corner of the blank that would be set against the fence and stop on the drill press. The hole WAS 9/32". I drilled all the through holes then set up to drill the counter sink. The reference marks insured identical registration between the through hole and the countersink which allowed me to make one setup on the countersink and run the rest as a batch job.








[/url] IMG_3803 by pat w1, on Flickr[/IMG]

I cut a short piece of 5/16" dowel and chucked it up in the drill press and sanded it down to a tight fit on the drilled hole. Luck was smiling and the fit in the aluminum piece was looser but with no play. That and a little double sided tape and I shoud be ready to route the forks.








[/url] IMAG0106 by pat w1, on Flickr[/IMG]

More later.
GCG


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Pat
> 
> The dowel pins are not needed bolt the master fork to the wood stock and the bolt will do all the work for you..,just drill the hole and counter sink it in the new part,take about 2 mins to make a copy of the fork with a good trim bit.
> 
> ====


You ninja'd me Bob. The dowel (as you probably have already seen in the post) is to line up the mounting holes in the two pieces. I guess I could have used a screw but I wanted to match them as close to perfect as possible.

GCG


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## Taco (Mar 5, 2013)

Thanks GCG. Very slick.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

GCG, I bought one of those forks like 6 months ago, with the plan to do what you are doing now. Some day, maybe I'll actually do it too ... this is going to be a great resource for me, thanks!


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Well red oak may not be the best choice or at least the stuff I have isn't. Working with the grain is fine but against the grain is ... well, see for yourself:








[/url] IMAG0109 by pat w1, on Flickr[/IMG]

That little feathering job just about sent the piece into my paw and I had first removed most of the waste with a bandsaw. It was a fourth attempt and I have to rethink either my method or question my skill (I leaning toward my skill). The only path I see is that I'll need to work out a way to control the small piece on a climbing cut to have any hope to make this work. 

Bob, feel free to chime in with any opinion at any time.

GCG


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

What kind of a bit are you using? on a router table, I would have thought a flush trim bit with the braring on the end of the bit would make short work of it. No?


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> What kind of a bit are you using? on a router table, I would have thought a flush trim bit with the bearing on the end of the bit would make short work of it. No?


Flush trim bit it is. Brand spanking new Freud Diablo 1/2x1 three flute. A better result is obtained at a higher speed but still no go on opposing grain and the bad results can be more violent. Angels look out for fools and children and I feel like I got a fool's pass on that last try. One more try and I may graduate to merely stupid and they'll wash their hands of me all together.

GCG


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Pat

You should use the Allen Flat screw and nut to lock the master to the new part.in your picture it looks like the new part moved a little bit and let the bit dig in that's a no no, you can use some tape but the Allen screw is the key, on the 1st.ones I did I used longer stock that gave me a little handle,that's to say by making 2 at one time so to speak (point to point setup ) it helps then I cut the part into 2 and a little bit of sanding on the tip but for me that was a bit to slow,but I have used the router for a very long time..using the band saw will help but the router bit will do all the work for plus if you hit the master with band saw blade that's it bad master.:nono:
setting the trim bit is a must NOT to high and NOT to low it must me dead on,you don't want to nail the master...:nono:,you can set it down a little bit and sand off the edge/lip after the mill work.

Note ,,,,the tape will give that little gap you may need to save the master from getting nail..you can also use some card board (shoe box cardboard works well )and it will sand right off with the glue you use to hold it in place..

I tape//use 3 types of tape,( thin,and some little bit thicker,and some that about 1/16" thick.)all called carpet tape.

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GulfcoastGuy said:


> Well red oak may not be the best choice or at least the stuff I have isn't. Working with the grain is fine but against the grain is ... well, see for yourself:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> Flush trim bit it is. Brand spanking new Freud Diablo 1/2x1 three flute. A better result is obtained at a higher speed but still no go on opposing grain and the bad results can be more violent. Angels look out for fools and children and I feel like I got a fool's pass on that last try. One more try and I may graduate to merely stupid and they'll wash their hands of me all together.
> 
> GCG


Your problem may be in the excess material your trying to rout away is too much and thus causing your router to jump.

When I was doing my chair stool legs I came across a similar problem. The solution I came up with was to cut closer to the line and thus not have so much waster material to remove. I also added a starting pin on the router table to help control the piece.

The other problem I had was trying to rout with the grain going the wrong way as it is what your experiencing. The solution is to buy another bearing guide and place it on the bit so you have two sets of bearings. One on the top and one on the bottom. This will allow you to flip over the so you can rout with the grain and not have the tear out. 
Top & Bottom Bearing Flush Trim Bits

Buy some good one sided carpet tape and fasten the oak while routing.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

i had a problem where the carpet tape slipped a little and it roached the copy i was making. it didn't look like yours, but this was in plywood, so of course it would be different. when i used a bolt to hold it, it held much better and i didn't ruin it.

i am hoping that bob's advice to secure it better will be the ticket for you, as i will be trying to follow in your footsteps. i might go with the "soft" maple they have at home depot though, instead of oak.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Pat

Just a tip note...if you want to use the dowel pin way,press out the pins or drill out the pins and drill the holes out with the master finger template in place it will line up the holes dead on..you know what they say about using 3 line points they must all be dead on..

Here's the bit I use
The shear angle slices wood cleanly

MLCS Flush Trim and Shear Angle Flush Trim Router Bits
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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Bob, Dan, Chris,

Thanks for the tips and the encouragement, all good stuff. I'll respond in more detail later but thought I'd - tip the hat - so to speak till I had more time.

Thanks again.
GCG


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Pat (as well as others), What am I missing here? Why make several identical parts and not just a "handful" of fingers? Are these occasionally spread apart (as in the Leigh Jig)?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Otis


See videos below,it's like the Leigh Jig but at 1/10th the price or less..
Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood - Dovetails Made Easy with Marc Sommerfeld - Part 1 - YouTube
Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood - Router Tables Made Easy with Marc Sommerfeld - Part 2 - YouTube

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OPG3 said:


> Pat (as well as others), What am I missing here? Why make several identical parts and not just a "handful" of fingers? Are these occasionally spread apart (as in the Leigh Jig)?


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

OK, first Dan, I like the idea of the top and bottom bearings but I have decided to go with the sheer bit instead. My choice is mainly because Bob had his success with it and I like the odds. I did cut very close to the line I drew and was left with very little waste but that still didn't seem to help. I won't give up the idea though, you may be right in the long run. I just don't know right now.

@Chris, Hang in there buddy we'll get there. Maybe the oak isn't the best choice but With Bob as a guide and Dan helping, not to mention the rest of the gang, I'm certian we can get this.

@Bob, Thanks for the bit sugestion. Now a question. Might it be a good idea to duplicate a "working master" out of ... say ... 1/2" cast acrylic? I have some 1/4" I could bond into 1/2". It'd be more consistant and easier to cut (I've cut it before) and I'd have a fallback in the event of a mishap cutting the wood.

Thanks again all.
Still plodding forward.
GCG


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Pat

Yes you can do that BUT you have a master,just sand out the nick and it should be fine..the bearing will just jump /roll over the nick in the master but it sounds like thick tape will do the trick for you, 1/16" is good as a mile with router bits..
It will lift the master up by 1/16", so you can get the trim bit do it's job..
It will walk right in and take out the stock...it works on the upcut or the down cut of the grain of the stock stock...

I use 1/4" wide trim bit,it's small in dia.and you don't need to use the band saw unless you want to...

Spiral Flush Trim Router Bit
#5089 1/4" 1" 1/4"
MLCS solid carbide router bits


=

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GulfcoastGuy said:


> OK, first Dan, I like the idea of the top and bottom bearings but I have decided to go with the sheer bit instead. My choice is mainly because Bob had his success with it and I like the odds. I did cut very close to the line I drew and was left with very little waste but that still didn't seem to help. I won't give up the idea though, you may be right in the long run. I just don't know right now.
> 
> @Chris, Hang in there buddy we'll get there. Maybe the oak isn't the best choice but With Bob as a guide and Dan helping, not to mention the rest of the gang, I'm certian we can get this.
> 
> ...


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Thanks Bob. I got the impression that once the master was bitten it was a loss. I've ordered the bit you recommended in Post #17 with their free shipping option (7-10 working days) so it'll give me the time to make a small parts holder to use. When it comes in I'll make the test runs I need on various grains (end, uphill, downhill) to set a good speed and go from there.

GCG


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

> See videos below,it's like the Leigh Jig but at 1/10th the price or less..
> Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood - Dovetails Made Easy with Marc Sommerfeld - Part 1 - YouTube
> Sommerfeld's Tools for Wood - Router Tables Made Easy with Marc Sommerfeld - Part 2 - YouTube


Bob, *THANK YOU VERY MUCH!* That was quite possibly the best dovetail cutting video series I've ever seen. He made it very clear and the photographer did an excellent job of "closing-in" when necessary! Your skill in sending appropriate videos is unmatched!

Thanks again! Otis Guillebeau


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Pat

Sounds good,here's easy way to make custom push block,,to make it safe and easy, start with some 1/4" thick MDF/Plywood about 4 1/2" x 6" block,put some sticks around the edges to make a pocket,wrap the fork with clear plastic wrap then mix up the putty and put it all the around the fork in the mold block, once the putty is dry ( about 30 mins.or so ) pop the fork out,screw the part to the push block, now you have one that will fit the fork and make it safe..

Note drill some 1/2" holes in the mold block to help get the fork out.
Note the putty will dry out just like a rock..but you can sand it if needed..

Donald Durham Co. 00004 Durhams 4-Pound Rock Hard Water Putty - Amazon.com

Woodstock W1400 Push Block, Small - Amazon.com

Bits at a lower price
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-pc-Doveta...805998210?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item1e74a52282
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GulfcoastGuy said:


> Thanks Bob. I got the impression that once the master was bitten it was a loss. I've ordered the bit you recommended in Post #17 with their free shipping option (7-10 working days) so it'll give me the time to make a small parts holder to use. When it comes in I'll make the test runs I need on various grains (end, uphill, downhill) to set a good speed and go from there.
> 
> GCG


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Bob, so is the idea on the push block/mold thing that you would make it shallow so that the master is protruding out of the mold enough to guide the bit with the bearing? Then you would put the master into the mold with the blank on the bottom, held together with a bolt (into something like a t-nut in the mold), and hold the custom push block from above to run the bit around the master?

If so, thanks for a great approach to solving a problem like this.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI
you got it..
==



Chris Curl said:


> Bob, so is the idea on the push block/mold thing that you would make it shallow so that the master is protruding out of the mold enough to guide the bit with the bearing? Then you would put the master into the mold with the blank on the bottom, held together with a bolt (into something like a t-nut in the mold), and hold the custom push block from above to run the bit around the master?
> 
> If so, thanks for a great approach to solving a problem like this.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

BJ, very clever idea using water putty to make a mold. I was looking for some Durham's the other day for another use but will definitely keep this idea in mind for some of my projects. Thanks.



bobj3 said:


> Hi Pat
> 
> Sounds good,here's easy way to make custom push block,,to make it safe and easy, start with some 1/4" thick MDF/Plywood about 4 1/2" x 6" block,put some sticks around the edges to make a pocket,wrap the fork with clear plastic wrap then mix up the putty and put it all the around the fork in the mold block, once the putty is dry ( about 30 mins.or so ) pop the fork out,screw the part to the push block, now you have one that will fit the fork and make it safe..
> 
> ...


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Oliver

The mold way works for me ,once I have a master (gears out of a old drill motor,etc.) I have made some gears with clear acrylic plastic in the bottle,little acrylic and hardener and a quick poor and it's done in about 20 mins. or so,I like to drop in coin for the center so I have little bit more mass for the pin center hole...

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Gaffboat said:


> BJ, very clever idea using water putty to make a mold. I was looking for some Durham's the other day for another use but will definitely keep this idea in mind for some of my projects. Thanks.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

GulfcoastGuy said:


> OK, first Dan, I like the idea of the top and bottom bearings but I have decided to go with the sheer bit instead. My choice is mainly because Bob had his success with it and I like the odds. I did cut very close to the line I drew and was left with very little waste but that still didn't seem to help. I won't give up the idea though, you may be right in the long run. I just don't know right now.
> 
> @Chris, Hang in there buddy we'll get there. Maybe the oak isn't the best choice but With Bob as a guide and Dan helping, not to mention the rest of the gang, I'm certian we can get this.
> 
> ...


Patrick you are correct on the down shear bit. In fact, I ordered one and have used it since the stools. It worked flawlessly but did cost a bit more but in the end was well worth it.

The bit you want is made by CMT. I have included the link for you to have a look at it.

Router bits-Flush trim bits with double bearing-CMT tools


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Pat
> 
> Sounds good,here's easy way to make custom push block,,to make it safe and easy, start with some 1/4" thick MDF/Plywood about 4 1/2" x 6" block,put some sticks around the edges to make a pocket,wrap the fork with clear plastic wrap then mix up the putty and put it all the around the fork in the mold block, once the putty is dry ( about 30 mins.or so ) pop the fork out,screw the part to the push block, now you have one that will fit the fork and make it safe..
> 
> ...


That would be ideal for THIS application. I see the appeal of the dedicated mold but I needed a more universal small parts jig anyway. I don't have the funds to make them just to throw them in the trash when I'm done or the space to store a series of specialized jigs. Heck, I don't really have the space to store what I have now. While looking around for design ideas I saw this (seems I recall someone here recommending it before but I'm not sure):








MLCS Safety Accessories

And after pricing the various parts the $23 didn't sound bad so I ordered it.

GCG


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

just a quick update to let everyone know the thread wasn't dead only that I have a couple of non-woodworking related irons in the fire that are occupying my time.

I received both the small parts holder and the shear flush trim bit. I haven't used the bit as yet but I tried a few quick cuts with the small parts holder and it seems to fit the bill.

I did manage to remove the dings in the fork that resulted from my mishap.

I will get back to this, just maybe not as soon as I'd like.


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

*Sweet Success*



I'm waiting for my wife to pick the stain color for the tables, I got my sump finished and installed (absolutely silent, nary the slightest sound of even a trickle), and it's father's day sooo .... I get to play.

OH YEAH! Check it out.










I used the first sheer cut bit that Bob recommended (perfect), tape I bought from Chris Curl (thanks, worked great), Lined all that up first with the dowel then locked it down with the screw. I then VERY CAREFULLY cut away as much as I could with the band saw (nod to Dan and Bob). I really think I'm in business.

OH, and I got the two piece Keller/Katie jig bit set off Ebay for father's day. WooHoo:dance3:

Thanks to all for the suggestions, really helped.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice job Pat how many did you make ???



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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

That one makes one in a row. I'll start in on more this week. I want at least 9 of the dovetail forks and a few of the box joint. I should have enough blanks to cover that even with a little shrinkage.

What did you use for the clamp bar? I don't have anything on hand and I found the 80/20 1050 on amazon - 48" @~ $18 shipped. I have some knobs to use.

80/20 10 SERIES 1050 1" X .5" T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION X 48": Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Pat

I used the item below

80/20 10 SERIES 1030 1" X 3" T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION x 48": Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Just a note I used square nuts and ground the sides a little bit so they can slide in the slots easy and clean..Cheap old SOB I am...about 8.oo per 100..




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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Pat
> 
> I used the item below
> 
> ...


I've got that, the core extrusion. I was talking about the piece used to clamp the work pieces to the jig, what Mark and Katie Jig.com call the "Toaster".


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Pat

You can use that for the "Toaster" clamps but it will take a lot of rework so you can use it///
I just use some hard wood bars and Alum. channel stock with holes drill in them

I should note that Kreg came out with a new clamp that would work with the 80/20 stock,the clamp is for the Bead Face board setup,it's made to slide in the slot in the Alum.stock..but it's not cheap 


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GulfcoastGuy said:


> I've got that, the core extrusion. I was talking about the piece used to clamp the work pieces to the jig, what Mark and Katie Jig.com call the "Toaster".


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