# Questions about router table design



## MrG (Aug 15, 2010)

Hello all this is my first post, I have been watching this forum for a bit and like it. 
I am building a router table that is 24 x 32 inches 1.5 inches thick. MDF banded with wood. MCLS phenolic router plate is the plate I am using, Router is the fixed base PC 890 series 2.25 router. Fence is from another bench top table I had and would like to recycle it, will build another fence later. I am back and forth on building a cabinet or open stand. Leaning at cabinet.

Questions are the miter tracks. The track that runs across the table below the plate if I am correct should be 6" from the center?

The two miter that run down for the fence how long should they be? I have 2 Kreg tracks 14 or 18" off the top of my head.

Or should I make a base that is the with of the table and wraps around with clamps and no track?

Thanks for the help.

Mr G


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Welcome, think about building a stand You might want some casters on it for ease of moving around


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

*Miter track* - opinions vary on the utility of a miter track. I installed a combination miter/T-track, and use both for different feather boards and such. I don't use the miter track as a guide track, however, preferring to use the fence as a guide. As to the distance from the bit center, consider the size of the accessories you have and the size of the stock you typically rout, and position the track accordingly. 

*Fence track* - again, opinions vary. Consider the size of the largest bit you'll be using (e.g. raised panel bits, and the like). You'll likely want to be able to position the fence far enough forward to essentially cover the bit, and far enough back to accommodate tasks like routing dados on drawer sides, etc. 

As with most things, there is no single magic answer. Everything depends on the nature of the work you are doing, and the working style that suits you best (and is safe).


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Let us all keep in mind that the inspiration for this forum is the Router Workshop, and that Bob and Rick have used for many years, and show the use of a router table with no miter tracks or T-tracks. I for one, who should not be confused with "expert" follow the Router Workshop philosophy except for the height of the fence, and I have one fence (I made it) that has a T-track to position and support a featherboard.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

I totally agree with Tom on keep it simple. Bob and Rick demonstrate it in the videos. Many people contemplating building their first table complicate it the design. 

I use double 3/4 sanded plywood for benchtops. Wax it periodically it stays smooth. And if you build a simple table you can easily go back and add features later. If you install mitre slot it must be parrallel to insert plate.


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Michael:

Welcome to the Router Forums!

A suggestion: make the stand now. If later you want to make a cabinet for the router table, you will have a functional router table (on a stand) with which to make the cabinet. 

Cassandra


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

paduke said:


> If you install mitre slot it must be parallel to insert plate.


Bill, This is only true of saw blades. The track and fence must be parallel to the straight blade to prevent a bind or kickback. Since the router bit is round the miter track can be installed at any angle on the table, same as the fence.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

You are right michael But if a beginer like me wishes to use the incremental marks on the insert plate to set a fence and use a mitre gauge to hold stock when milling ends isnt it just easier to have the two items parallel? I am asking to learn


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## MrG (Aug 15, 2010)

Hi all and thanks for the feedback. I am going to cut the opening for the plate this afternoon and build my stand. I am going to leave the tracks out for the time being because I came up with another idea. The fence I have is still going to be used and incorporated into my new idea.


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