# routing a dato 1" using a 3/4" bit



## jsoika (Sep 20, 2004)

I have a quick question on routing a 1" dato using a 3/4" straight bit, after making the first pass is it best to move the fence toward the bit or away to make the last 1/4" cut ??


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

I move the fence away from the bit. This way you are still feeding into the bit, and not climb cutting, which can pull the bit away from you. 

You could also set up your fence with a 1/4 inch shim. Make the first cut, which will be 'balanced' with stock on both side of the bit. Then, pull your shim and make the cut again. 

It has worked for me in the past, maybe another can explain it a little clearer if needed.


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## ChevyNomad (Sep 24, 2004)

Away from the bit would be my choice. That way you are not climb cutting. I want to hear other answers myself, and why.

What say y'all ? ? ?


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

Both replies are correct. Should you do the opposite the material is likely to be pulled out of your hand and shoot forward leaving your hand heading straight for the cutter.The deeper the cut and the hardness of the material will increase the force the material will move.

So to repeat MOVE THE FENCE BACK for the second cut
Tom


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## Woodnut65 (Oct 11, 2004)

Hi, Jsoika: I would move the fence away from the bit for the second cut. 
Woodnut65


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## jsoika (Sep 20, 2004)

THANKYOU ALL , j SOIKA


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## QHC (Oct 7, 2008)

Woodnut65 said:


> Hi, Jsoika: I would move the fence away from the bit for the second cut.
> Woodnut65


While I don't disagree with the preferences shown here, I have to take issue with saying that moving the fence toward the bit for the second cut would be a 'climb cut' situation. To create a 'climb cut' situation, you would either have to change the feed direction, the bit rotation direction, or move the fence from one side of the bit to the other keeping the bit and feed direction the same.

Moving the fence toward or away from the bit does not change the relationship between the bit rotation and direction of travel of the work piece. To have a climb cut situation, you have to have the work piece traveling the same direction as the bit rotation.

QHC


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Here's good read by the Pro.

http://www.routerworkshop.com/smstraightbit.html

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## QHC (Oct 7, 2008)

I didn't think that one through did I. I stand corrected.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI QHC

No need to stand corrected

I find myself like the picture below all the time 


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QHC said:


> I didn't think that one through did I. I stand corrected.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

QHC said:


> While I don't disagree with the preferences shown here, I have to take issue with saying that moving the fence toward the bit for the second cut would be a 'climb cut' situation. To create a 'climb cut' situation, you would either have to change the feed direction, the bit rotation direction, or move the fence from one side of the bit to the other keeping the bit and feed direction the same.
> 
> Moving the fence toward or away from the bit does not change the relationship between the bit rotation and direction of travel of the work piece. To have a climb cut situation, you have to have the work piece traveling the same direction as the bit rotation.
> 
> QHC


I hate to have to disagree with you but all the above answers are correct (except yours), the situation is like routing internal and external, if you brought the fence forward, you would have to feed the wood from left to right, ie; into the cutter.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Woodnut65 said:


> Hi, Jsoika: I would move the fence away from the bit for the second cut.
> Woodnut65


I agree with this. Harrysin is also correct in reversing feed direction if the fence is moved toward the bit. But in that situation, you are trapping the stock between the bit and the fence.


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