# Boosch 1617 plunge router



## jpaskell (Mar 18, 2017)

Anyone have an issue with their plunge router base sticking when lowering?
Mine kind if jitters on it's way down. It does not provude a "smooth" trip down. I hate to force it and ruin my project.

Anyone know if their is an adjustment or cleaning that can be done to smooth out the travel?

Thanks all,

Jim


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

How old is it? A lot of use or not much? Cleaning the posts would be the first place to start. Is there something that's worked it way into the space between the posts and the guides?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

locking cam isn't 100% releasing... 
or it may be too loose and allowing the motor to ''rock'' as it moves causing it to bind...
owners manual covers the fix...
guide posts are dirty and/or dry..

clean the outside of the motor and the inside of the base w/ *non chlorinated brake cleaner* sprayed on a soft white (no colored rags please) cloth...
*DO NOT* spray the cleaner onto the motor or base...
above all *DO NOT!!!* I say again, *DO NOT!!!* use carburetor cleaner...
now polish the outside of the motor and the inside of the base w/ super hyper fine sand paper, 4/0 wool (synthetic, or stainless but not steel wool or better yet use a white non-woven abrasive pad.. 
coat the surfaces w/ a *DRY SOLID FILM* lubricant.. I'm real partial to TriFlow... *DO NOT* use a wet lubricant...
do the same for the posts...

*VOE* says WD is a mistake and all myth... it's a wet something or another that attracts all kinds of trash... does way more harm than good in the scheme of things... 
I'm real partial to Triflow but most any dry lube will work well providing it's has Teflon/PFTE in it... [higher percentage by volume is more gooder]... 
CRC, Tiolube, KG and DuPont each have several most excellent industrial spec *DRY SOLID FILM* lubricants.. 
Criteria - dries dry to the touch, high pressure load bearing, contains Teflon/PFTE, barrier forming, extreme temperature range, [usually -100 to +500F] isn't hygroscopic, does not collect dirt, not flammable in dry state, chemical resistant, does not contain silicone, has a long list of compatibles and is really very long lasting... or any of or all the features WD hasn't got any of.... 

one thing about dry solid film lubricants is that when you apply them and you think that you didn't apply enough you have probably applied too much.. 
very, very little goes a loooooooooooooooong way... 

Just wait until you do your saw's arbor mechanism w/ dry lube.. you and your saw will never be the same... You'll treat everything that moves in the shop in short order... Please thoroughly clean whatever before lubing.. 
It's a great release agent too... 

Dry Film Lubricants are high performance coatings made up of very fine particles of lubricating agents blended with binders and other special additives. Once cured, these lubricating agents bond to the part surface as a solid film which reduces galling, seizing and fretting and protects against corrosion. Through the combination of these properties, dry film lubricants greatly improve the wear life of coated parts. 
Dry film/solid film lubricants allow for operating pressures above the load-bearing capacity of normal greases and oils. They are also not prone to collecting soil particulates than greases and oils. In some applications, the coating is self-burnishing, leading to improved, rather than decreased, performance over time. Some blends of dry film/solid film lubricants are also temperature and chemical resistant allowing for their use in harsh environments such as jet engines where exposure to aviation fuel and extreme temperatures are the norm. 
This is the type of lubricant you want to use if you have a CNC. 
AVOID using anything with silicone in it, because it seems to eventually get on everything including your project and you will have all kinds of finishing problems. Silicone products should be banned from the shop along w/ WD40. 

WD will kill bearings in very short order.....
it dissolves the bearing's lubricant... 

*Bottom line* - wet lubricants and saw dust don't go together!


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## jpaskell (Mar 18, 2017)

*Router travel*



DesertRatTom said:


> How old is it? A lot of use or not much? Cleaning the posts would be the first place to start. Is there something that's worked it way into the space between the posts and the guides?


Desert Rat Tom,
Thanks for the reply. Unit is about 2 years old and used twice. I want to do some lettering with stencils and need a bit smoother travel.
Not sure what I am doing with Posts and guides and don't want to screw it up. I'll try to see what I can find reviewing the parts list and clean what I can and report back.
Thanks again for the tip.

Jim


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## jpaskell (Mar 18, 2017)

Stick,

Appreciate the quick response.
Guess because I don't use it a lot, it is probably got some gunk in the works. I will attempt to find some TriFlow and figure out what parts are what. Will also review the owners manual.
Shoulda thought that because I kept it in the case, it wouldn't get DIRTY. Wrong......
I will follow your directions as most on this site do. You know your stuff and I appreciate your help.

Next on the list? TriFlow.

Thanks again,

Jim


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

jpaskell said:


> Stick,
> 
> Appreciate the quick response.
> Guess because I don't use it a lot, it is probably got some gunk in the works.
> ...


no problem...
lack of use goes a long ways to contributing to your issues...
there are other dry lubes out there that do a great job...
pick up a non-woven pad or two while yur shopping... (think green scrubby pad but get it from the sandpaper department)...


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## jpaskell (Mar 18, 2017)

Stick,

Believe ths is what your refering to? Found at True Value Hardware.

Jim


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

jpaskell said:


> Stick,
> 
> Believe ths is what your refering to? Found at True Value Hardware.
> 
> Jim


that's the stuff...
after you polish... don't forget to reclean...


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## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

jpaskell,

I have exactly the same router brand and model. I was having the same issue as mention. I did all the things that has been mentioned. Nothing helped. I took both the plunge base and the router to a very good machinist I know. He measured and calibrated and finally decided that the plunge base was just too tight a fit. The router could not go down without binding. He said leave it with me and I will fix it. Well long story short, it worked better after I got it back from him than the day I tool it out of the box it came in. He said the biggest problem was the router itself is made out of harder material than the plunge base. right where the router goes into the slots were out of true he said. He trued the slots and polished both the router and the base. He told me to use a lot more air with it. The cleaner you can keep it, better it will work for you. saw dust has dirt in it and it will cut aluminum and other materials. Like I said, no more problems. He did recommend one other cleaner and that is Starting Fluid. People will roll their eyes at this, but we use it all the time to clean electrical connections and other electrical parts. It dries in seconds and leaves no residual. It is dry, very dry.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Frank; isn't that Ether?
https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/ether


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Frank; isn't that Ether?
> https://en.oxforddictionaries.com/definition/ether


it is...
Frank's suggestion is next level dangerous and should not even have been mentioned...
there's no accounting what others may do besides get asphyxiated or burn down/blow up the shop ...


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## Hypnotoad (Apr 17, 2018)

Stick486 said:


> it is...
> Frank's suggestion is next level dangerous and should not even have been mentioned...
> there's no accounting what others may do besides get asphyxiated or burn down/blow up the shop ...


I'm not suggesting anyone use it but I have experience with Ether.

Starting fluid is 25% Ether apparently, I used to repair automotive gauges and the temp gauges were full of Ether, you would fill them with a syringe type thing and then put in a brass pin, then solder the pin in place. Did hundreds and never had a problem. This stuff drys instantly if you spill it.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Hypnotoad said:


> I'm not suggesting anyone use it but I have experience with Ether.
> 
> Starting fluid is 25% Ether apparently, I used to repair automotive gauges and the temp gauges were full of Ether, you would fill them with a syringe type thing and then put in a brass pin, then solder the pin in place. Did hundreds and never had a problem. *This stuff drys instantly if you spill it.*





Tagwatts1 said:


> jpaskell,
> 
> People will roll their eyes at this, but we use it all the time to clean electrical connections and other electrical parts. It dries in seconds and leaves no residual. It is dry, very dry.


read these MSDS PDF's... *MAKE SURE YOU READ THE 1st 2~3 PAGES...*
so it dries, actually it turns into vapor that mixes w/ the air...
the risk factors is just to high to be playing around w/ it...

.


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## Hypnotoad (Apr 17, 2018)

Stick486 said:


> read these MSDS PDF's... *MAKE SURE YOU READ THE 1st 2~3 PAGES...*
> so it dries, actually it turns into vapor that mixes w/ the air...
> the risk factors is just to high to be playing around w/ it....


That's why I said I am not recommending anyone use it, but talking about data sheets, here's one for WD40, I bet a lot of people think that's safe:

http://www.wd40.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/WD-40-Aerosol-AUNZ-GHS-SDS-7-23-15-with-EZ-REACH-addition.pdf


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## jpaskell (Mar 18, 2017)

Stick,
Looking for some TriFlow. People advertise it but don't have in stock. They will ship it and have it here in two weeks. Not good.

How about Blaster with teflon? That's about all I can find that advertises dry lubricant.
Any other recommendations?

Thanks again for the help.

Jim


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## Hypnotoad (Apr 17, 2018)

jpaskell said:


> Stick,
> Looking for some TriFlow. People advertise it but don't have in stock. They will ship it and have it here in two weeks. Not good.
> 
> How about Blaster with teflon? That's about all I can find that advertises dry lubricant.
> ...


UniMoly, Liqui Moly or Molybond, Molybdenum Disulphide grease?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Hypnotoad said:


> That's why I said I am not recommending anyone use it, but talking about data sheets, here's one for WD40, I bet a lot of people think that's safe:
> 
> http://www.wd40.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/WD-40-Aerosol-AUNZ-GHS-SDS-7-23-15-with-EZ-REACH-addition.pdf


I've preached that for years about WD...
so many live and breathe the myth...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Hypnotoad said:


> UniMoly, Liqui Moly or Molybond, Molybdenum Disulphide grease?


the grease...
*ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!* ....


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

jpaskell said:


> Stick,
> Looking for some TriFlow. People advertise it but don't have in stock. They will ship it and have it here in two weeks. Not good.
> 
> How about Blaster with teflon? That's about all I can find that advertises dry lubricant.
> ...


the big boxes and ace all carry dry lubes here...
also sporting good stores that cater to the hunters have..
TriFlow is also known as LSA (Lubricant, Small Arms).. (military surplus stores) it was originally formulated for the military for their firearms...
Aren't any of these made by CRC, Tiolube, KG or DuPont available???
As for the Blaster.. I don't see why not..


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## jpaskell (Mar 18, 2017)

Stick,

The big box stores here sell the dry lube also. I was looking for the TriFlow and not sure if any dry lube would work out O.K.
Sounds like it will. Will pick some up at HD tomorrow when I go to pick up my white non-woven abrasive pad.

Thanks again,

Jim


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Stick, I also found Tri-Flow TF0023008 Rapid Clean Dry Cleaner/Degreaser - 15 oz. Aerosol. In your opinion, could this do for cleaning the plunge tubes and parts?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

I don't see why not...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Re Ether; let's not get too extreme here. 
Ether was a commonly used product in offices everywhere, for decades. It was the primary ingredient in the correction fluid used to make changes to Gestetner mimeograph stencils.
https://www.aiga.org/cranking-it-out-old-school-style-art-of-the-gestetner


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## Hypnotoad (Apr 17, 2018)

Stick486 said:


> the grease...
> *ABSOLUTELY NOT!!!* ....


I'm talking about the dry grease, we used Molybond here in Australia:

_Dry film lubricant
Provides excellent anti-seize properties_

https://www.itwpf.com.au/molybond-lubricants/122l-spray/

P.S. You just learned how to use colors Stick? :wink:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Hypnotoad said:


> I'm talking about the dry grease, we used Molybond here in Australia:
> 
> _Dry film lubricant
> Provides excellent anti-seize properties_
> ...


I stand corrected about your grease...
no worries..
somebuddy will be along shortly to take my crayolas away from soon...


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## Tagwatts (Apr 11, 2012)

DaninVan,

YES IT CONTAINS ETHER. WE USE IT EVERY DAY TO START TRACTORS, CLEAN TERMINALS AND VERY CLOSE TOLERANCE PARTS. IT IS LEGAL FOR ALL WE USE IT FOR. EVERY DAY IN THE OILFIELD WE USE IT AND A LOT MORE VOLATILE CHEMICALS. WE ALSO US DYNAMITE AND OTHER EXPLOSIVES MOST EVERY DAY. WE ARE LICENCED UNDR THE FEDERAL ARMS. 

This is from your listed site on the web. I hope this will clear up any issues you may have and the legality of using Starting Fluid as cleaner. 
Chemistry;
A pleasant-smelling colourless volatile liquid that is highly flammable. It is used as an anaesthetic and as a solvent or intermediate in industrial processes.

Alternative names: diethyl ether, ethoxyethane; chemical formula: C₂H₅OC₂H₅


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Me?*



Tagwatts1 said:


> DaninVan,
> 
> YES IT CONTAINS ETHER. WE USE IT EVERY DAY TO START TRACTORS, CLEAN TERMINALS AND VERY CLOSE TOLERANCE PARTS. IT IS LEGAL FOR ALL WE USE IT FOR. EVERY DAY IN THE OILFIELD WE USE IT AND A LOT MORE VOLATILE CHEMICALS. WE ALSO US DYNAMITE AND OTHER EXPLOSIVES MOST EVERY DAY. WE ARE LICENCED UNDR THE FEDERAL ARMS.
> 
> ...


'Morning, Frank; you sure it was me that you wanted to PM? I'm the one that _wasn't_ particularly excited about how dangerous it was. As I mentioned, I remember it being a fairly common office product. 
It was Stick that posted the warning (I think it was)...

Cheers,
-Dan


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Tagwatts1 said:


> DaninVan,
> 
> YES IT CONTAINS ETHER. WE USE IT EVERY DAY TO START TRACTORS, CLEAN TERMINALS AND VERY CLOSE TOLERANCE PARTS. IT IS LEGAL FOR ALL WE USE IT FOR. EVERY DAY IN THE OILFIELD WE USE IT AND A LOT MORE VOLATILE CHEMICALS. WE ALSO US DYNAMITE AND OTHER EXPLOSIVES MOST EVERY DAY. WE ARE LICENCED UNDR THE FEDERAL ARMS.
> 
> ...


We commonly used ether in the winter time to start our logging equipment when I was in that business. If the ether can is very cold then it tends to come out as a stream instead of a spray and the stream has to evaporate in the engines intake system before it is effective at helping the machine start so as a result we kept the can in the cab to keep it warm. One day I was moving the seat back in my pickup and the seat track poked a hole in the can. I managed to get the can out without incident but it stunk up the cab and I never did it again. I knew another guy in a logging camp I worked at who wasn't so lucky. He did the same thing but a spark ignited the ether and he got burns and burned the cab of the truck up. Our worker's comp prohibits carrying it inside the vehicle these days.

Since it was also used as an anesthetic years ago that means that even a little of it can impair your judgement, even if only for a few seconds. When I used it it was outside. I would NEVER use it inside a building. The risk is too high and it's guaranteed to have some effect on your cognitive abilities in a closed environment. There are lots of cleaners that are less volatile than ether and therefore safer to use.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

So basically, an 'Ether or' situation...


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## bfblack (May 2, 2012)

Be careful using a lubricant that has silicone as this can impact the wood's ability to accept a finish.


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