# how to route a stopped slot



## jkristia (Jan 18, 2009)

What is the best way to route a stopped 'through' slot on a router table?
Say I have a 1x2" where I want to route a 1/4" slot starting 2 inches from the end.

I used a start and a stop block attached to the fence, but I was not comfortable having my hands so close the the bit (even when it was burried in the stock), but I couldn't think of any clamp setup that would work.

I'm sure there must be an easy and safe way to do this on a table

Jesper


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Jesper

This is a good job for the ski jig, but if you don't have one and don't want to take the time to make one, this is what I suggest you do..

Use wider stock and longer stock,, put the slot in place and rip the board to size and cut it off to the right size.. 

Put masking tape on the fence to get you a starting point and a stopping point and the rest of it is easy.. just drop and slot,, wood is cheap but your fingers are not..
You can use stop blocks on the fence, but if you are going to use longer stock your table may not be that wide ( long) use a push block but don't put your hand over the bit at any time,if the bit breaks free it's coming out the top of the board..or when you plunge it down it's coming out of the top side..

use the 6" golden rule,,never but your hand with in 6" of the bit..

====




jkristia said:


> What is the best way to route a stopped 'through' slot on a router table?
> Say I have a 1x2" where I want to route a 1/4" slot starting 2 inches from the end.
> 
> I used a start and a stop block attached to the fence, but I was not comfortable having my hands so close the the bit (even when it was burried in the stock), but I couldn't think of any clamp setup that would work.
> ...


----------



## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Hi Bob

I think he was having trouble thinking of clamping and even with the skii you have used a cam clamp table in the past.

Can you post the "how to" on that cam table, it's pretty straightforward and I can guess your measurements pretty well, but for a newbie I think some plans may be helpful if you could do it. I bet this would clear up a lot of holding issues for this poster and many others. I am sure you posted it before somewhere, maybe a bump is in order.

I really have never needed one, but I may make one for an off site project based on yours and others I have seen here.


----------



## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hey Nick ,

couldnt he just use a flat board and the stick method to hold the workpiece, like harry uses?

but he still would need the ski jig right? im just asking for myself.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Nick

Here's a link that will show how to clamp the stock in place for the ski jig..


Router Forums - View Single Post - for Levon

===================



nickao65 said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> I think he was having trouble thinking of clamping and even with the skii you have used a cam clamp table in the past.
> 
> ...


----------



## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I know that, I thought you could post on HOW to make that Cam Clamp Table.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Nick

The post below shows all , both type of Cam Clamp Tables..it's so simple no plans need,, it can be any size one wants to make it..


http://www.routerforums.com/portable-routing/13243-levon.html


=========



nickao65 said:


> I know that, I thought you could post on HOW to make that Cam Clamp Table.


----------



## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I will have to look more closely at that when I am not tired, and I have something to work on and with. Paint starts this week, primer coat, then trim calk and final paint!!


----------



## jkristia (Jan 18, 2009)

thank you, that jig seems like a good idea if you have to make many slots, but for a single slot is seems like a lot of work. But the idea of the jig is deinitely useful and next time I will mak a simple jig with to sticks for the router to rest on, the edge guide and then use the plunge to cut the slot instead.

Thank
Jesper


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

jkristia said:


> thank you, that jig seems like a good idea if you have to make many slots, but for a single slot is seems like a lot of work. But the idea of the jig is deinitely useful and next time I will mak a simple jig with to sticks for the router to rest on, the edge guide and then use the plunge to cut the slot instead.
> 
> Thank
> Jesper


I answered this same question from a member some time ago, for a one off, the method is quick, simple and very safe.


----------



## jkristia (Jan 18, 2009)

Harry, that is exactly what I was thinking of after seeing the other jig.

Jesper


----------



## jkristia (Jan 18, 2009)

hmm, for some reason I cant edit my post. Well I wasnt thinking of adding the guide block but instead using the edge guide. Definitely I will use this jig next time I need to route a slot.

Jesper


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Jesper

That will work, here's just one more way with the plunge router,it's very quick to make and very easy to use.. 



==========



jkristia said:


> thank you, that jig seems like a good idea if you have to make many slots, but for a single slot is seems like a lot of work. But the idea of the jig is deinitely useful and next time I will mak a simple jig with to sticks for the router to rest on, the edge guide and then use the plunge to cut the slot instead.
> 
> Thank
> Jesper


----------



## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Bob,

Your dado jig with the 1" guide bushing slot was one of the first jigs I made. :sold:

I also use it with a couple of stop blocks and two 1" dia. dowels to make stopped slots with my plunge router.

I drilled a 1/4" hole on center on one end of each of the 1" dowel rods and then glued in a 1/4" dowel.

I layout the slot on my workpiece and then I pop in a 1/4" hole at each end point. I then use the two 1" dowels in the 1/4" holes to line up the dado jig and I clamp the stop blocks in place against each of the dowels. 

it works great and the 1/4" pilot holes let me use any straight bit to make the slot.. it doesn't have to be a plunge cutting straight router bit.







bobj3 said:


> HI Jesper
> 
> That will work, here's just one more way with the plunge router,it's very quick to make and very easy to use..
> 
> ...


----------



## jim_mex (Mar 16, 2009)

Hi Jesper - Ok - maybe a bit of a cheat approach but I hang a plunge router under my table which has just below it a wooden swivel block on the end of long pusher stick running through a guide to keep it vertical. This pusher stick sits on the lower end of a foot pedal running from the front of my table backwards to just past the centre of my router base such that the pusher stick sits on its lower end - the pivel being about midway between the pusher stick and the front edge of the foot pedal. With the router bit just under the surface of the table a push down on the pedal raises the pusher stick, connecting with the base of the the router (actually its upper part!) raising the bit above the table to whatever depth I have it set.

To route a stopped grooge accurately and safely simply clamp beginning and ending stop blocks on the fence, place the wood with its trailing end against the beginning position stop, switch on the router and with slow and gently foot pressure on the pedal raise the bit. Route the groove up to the end position stop block and then release the pedal lowering the bit below the table surface. Switch the router off and remove the finished piece.

Not only is this method very safe it gives you full two-handed control of the wood.

Sorry I cant post a photo of the table - I'm currently working away from home . but if you need more info just shout


----------



## orbit500 (Sep 15, 2009)

Hi Jim - that sounds like a good idea - I have often wondered why some sort of squeeze plunge remote is not available on router after market stores. The screw thread for the coarse depth adjust could even be driven by motor worm drive to a dial on the router table surface.


----------



## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> HI Jesper
> 
> This is a good job for the ski jig, but if you don't have one and don't want to take the time to make one, this is what I suggest you do..
> 
> ...


If the stock is to long to use the fence for a reference, i put masking tape on the table and mark the lead and trail edge of the bit and put the start and stop marks on the stock. Have to compensate for the radius of the cutter though.


----------

