# Diy arduino CNC questions



## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Is this the correct place to ask for help? I have it built.it works. Have issues about home and settings.


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## OCEdesigns (Jan 31, 2019)

What are your questions?


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

I was about to give up on here. Think I resolved issues. Switches, table direction, homing..... Now I need to figure out why the 1 inch circle example came out 3/4 and oval. Did the 100mm thing,measured out. Although x axis seemed to stall and slip on section of it.couldn't find any binding.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

You're not giving us much to go on to help you. Photos, post code, widescreen video, etc. - any of that would help. And you can still add your name to your profile to clear the N/a in the side panel.

Stick around, ask your questions, jump in on discussions, show us what you've done with the Arduino - we like to learn and to share in knowledge! 

David


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Actually Dave I pushed thru what I had questions on.at least I hope so. Made repairs again, homing switches work again, direction is correct on each axis,settings are in.if I can figure out ANY of the cad softwares ,I'll try my own circle test. Very frustrated. I don't want to be a CNC specialist. I just want to make a few simple signs, maybe drill precise holes to replace bad parts on machine. Arduino, I've made a bunch of useless stuff. multiple node wireless motion detection, garden control (temp,water,humidity), etc.


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

jeffp60 said:


> I don't want to be a CNC specialist.


It may be too late for you.  A specialist is anyone who can push through the challenges that pop up to make a machine do exactly what you want it to. Welcome to the cult. >

4D


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

4d, you suck! 
So, my fix for the x end switch didn't work. Added a block to hit switch, caught by the thickness of a paper. Thankfully I use rubber hose so it just pulled the rod off the drive. OK, some questions....
Garage sale I got artcam something. Does 3d stuff, really confusing and more than I am ready for.and a few freebie programs copied to CD.I just got updated versions. Gcode sender 3.6.1,gcode 1,i have Corel print house 4 ,inkspace, gimp, hoping I can draw what I want, make it gcode and cut.


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

We just bought Carveco which is the new company for ArtCAM. To learn the program I'm going through the ArtCAM tutorials on YouTube. Any of the Express or Standard tutorials will work to get you familiar with the program.

David


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Thanks Dave, been doing that. Accents low volume and click the mouse like a speed demon ,on a little screen not learning much.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Got it running. It goes home without ripping anything up!!!
So I got a few dxf files from scan2cad site. How do I resize them? I tried mm instead of inches, (program says dfx doesn't define), it still shows 200 inches.


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

The g-code for a 200mm cut is the same as the g-code for a 200 inch cut.
Your CNC Controller reads units. If it's configured in mm's, it will cut 200mm's. If it's configured in inches, it will cut 200 inches.

If you want to scale it to some other size, you can do that in any CAD program that reads .dxf files.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Thanks Gerry. I'll try it again. I opened a few of them in inkscape and I think gimp. All black workspace,can't see anything.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Sounds like Jeff is trying to do this below going on the cheap. Download Vectric's trial versions (don't know if Careveco has them) and play around with them. Also watch their tutorials. You'll throw those older programs out in a heartbeat. You'll save yourself a LOT of frustration and anguish. Then worry about the machine. I don't know anything about yours so I can't say anything good or bad about it. But remember -- this will not be a cheap venture. You can cut some corners, but don't think you're going to get away with a freebie. I thought all you had to do was scan, size, and hit go. Ain't so!!!


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

jeffp60 said:


> Thanks Gerry. I'll try it again. I opened a few of them in inkscape and I think gimp. All black workspace,can't see anything.



Try a "real" CAD program.


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

You can do it cheap, or even free, but that requires considerable more knowledge and skill then the paid options. >


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

John, I just downloaded aspire. Yikes! $2000. Nope!!! This is a hobby not a lifestyle. Anyhow, I did a 1 inch circle and square gcode sender and aspire set to inches. MAYBE 1/8 inch drawing.been playing with anything I can get to test. Sketch up,gimp, you name it.does anybody know which format to save in? Different .nc files gave error codes in gcode sender. One actually turned Circe into a square!!!


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## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

jeffp60 said:


> John, I just downloaded aspire. Yikes! $2000. Nope!!!...



Jeff how about downloading VCP/Pro instead of jumping to Aspire since you want to do simple stuff.
There's a bunch on here that are doing that sort of thing for no monetary reasons, maybe just to learn a new tool
and have fun. Freebie = headaches and grief as Jerry pointed out already if not familiar. at least you can upgrade
to Aspire if you really dig VCP and want to do 3D


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

You could get away with Vcarve (Cut 3d for starters - which is very basic)for what you want to do ......... for now. If you pursue this - the "bug" will get you!!

Vectric will give you full credit towards each upgrade. Download each version and play with them and then decide your next step.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

What I need to do is stick with one and learn. artcam seems good but not sure about just 2d ( just make a simple engraved board ("the Smiths").
Aspire seems good but $2k is steep and don't understand the size issue.
I need a 1,2,3 step lesson. Reading,videos are slowly getting me there but I need simply how to do simple to get started.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Have uninstall all of this crap and try cut3d.


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

I think he meant Cut2D, not Cut3D.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Don't they have Cut 3d now? New and improved - snicker.

Start with that one, then move up to Vcarve, then Aspire if you like. The principle's are all the same no matter what version you use. There's just more "features" with each upgrade. So once you use Cut 3d (or 2d) it's just a matter of learning the new features. The basics are the same. Everything I've done could have been done with Vcarve. I have Aspire just so I can exchange files with others, who usually have Aspire.


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## timon2jkl (Jan 16, 2019)

Inscape is great and not any harder to learn than any other cad program from scratch. You have to spend the time and effort there is no 1 2 3 directions for any of them so pick one and go for it. But. Vetric softwear does it all cad cam and is fairly newbi friendly but is more monies Vcarve desktop is where i would start and. Good luck and have fun with it dont fight with it. 

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

honesttjohn said:


> Don't they have Cut 3d now? New and improved - snicker.



Cut 3D is one of their oldest products, and is very different from Cut2D/V-Carve/Aspire.


Cut 3D is only useful for cutting 3D mesh models, and does not contain any drawing or modelling tools.


Cut 2D is the little brother to V Carve Pro. Without the V Carving.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Been paying with them all. Output is my issue.tried mach 3 ,got errors for I'd number,expected blah blah.....
Yea I know its impossible to say; load picture, 3rd icon at top bitmap trace then select...... 
I'm drawing a 1 in circle and trying to draw it.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Waste of $100 and 2 months time. Can't even find a post processor for grbl.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Vectric has post processors for grbl in inch and mm.

You could start with Cut 2D Desktop if you want to look at Vectric software. It is $149 and you can upgrade to any other Vectric software for the difference in cost between the one you own and the one you are upgrading to.

I do know you want to start as cheap as possible but in my opinion, you waste a lot of time learning most of the free software and have to use several different ones.

I think if I wanted to go the free route I would look into Fusion 360. It is cad/cam and very powerful. It will have a large learning curve but there are plenty of videos to help out learning the basics and advanced fetchers.


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## BalloonEngineer (Mar 27, 2009)

In VCarve Pro (would be very similar in Cut2D or Vcarve Deskrop) what you you are looking to do is quite simple.
https://vimeo.com/333019622


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

I guess I should have asked this before i started this. Has anyone ever built an arduino CNC using grbl that actually worked with artcam, aspire or ANY commercial software? And if so ,HOW?


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> I guess I should have asked this before i started this. Has anyone ever built an arduino CNC using grbl that actually worked with artcam, aspire or ANY commercial software? And if so ,HOW?


Like I said before Vectric has a post processor for grbl controller so you could use it to output cut files for your CNC. Remember you don't need to start with Aspire you can start with Cut 2D and upgrade as needed for the difference in cost of the upgrade and what Vectric software you are using.

I'm not sure if ArtCam has a post processor that is made for grbl. 

I know you are looking for a low priced solution so you might check and see if Fusion 360 has a post processor that can be used but I would think they would try to cover as many machines as possible.


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## BalloonEngineer (Mar 27, 2009)

As I showed in the video above, you select GRBL as the post processor when you save your toolpaths. In all the software I have and use - ArtCAM, VCarve Pro, Fusion 360 and Carveco, GRBL is listed as an available post processor. Post processing translates a toolpath into a g-code file that is compatible with a particular type of CNC. You then transfer this file to your computer that is connected to the CNC and use a G-code "Sender" program to transfer it to your CNC. There are several such programs, "Universal G Code Sender" often called UGS, bCNC, Easel and others. GRBL is the software running on the Arduino that converts the g-code commands into actual step and direction pulses that moves the CNC. 

So any machine that is properly set up and running GRBL can run g-code files created by any program that has a GRBL post processor, which is probably almost all commercial software.

There are lots of GRBL based machines out there such as the XCarve, Shapeoko and lots of builds posted on OpenBuilds. There are a few on the instructables site as well. Perhaps this will help explain
https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Installuse-GRBL-With-Your-Cnc-Machine/

I have not personally built one, but lots of people have.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Progress!! Found a pp someone made. mm works but inch gives error about missing quotes. But it seems to be correct.
Just to be sure ; 
Home machine
Move router to center(or corner that I set in designing setup)
Set z to top of material
Set all to zero
Begin cut.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Mike and Richard, artcam 2008 has nothing that I could find that worked properly. Errors or incorrect instruction. 
I can't use web based stuff. no WiFi. Going to re install 2008 see if jacks pp works.he said move all into new fold and leave his ,but now I get failed to initialize pp errors.moved all back and same thing. Noticed there are .DLL files in there too. Something is lost or corrupted.


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## BalloonEngineer (Mar 27, 2009)

If the garage sale seller got that ArtCAM 2008 version with a Chinese CNC, it is a pirated/hacked version and may have issues. In that era, I believe that legal copies needed a dongle plugged into your computer to run it. GRBL was first started in 2009, that is likely why there is no post processor in your 2008 software. May be time to update to something written this decade, Fusion 360 is free for most people and is well suited for cutout shapes with hole patterns, etc. It is updated (too?) frequently, but does require at least periodic internet access. Are you trying to use your machine control computer as your design machine as well? You can (and I recommend you do) use separate computers. Do your design on whatever machine you are using to access the internet, run UGS on one that is not.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

It was just a few CDs ,no machine. Or info.
Now I just have to figure out the right toolpath to make sliders for z axis. Just a rectangle and 3/8 holes(well mm equivalent).


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> Progress!! Found a pp someone made. mm works but inch gives error about missing quotes. But it seems to be correct.
> Just to be sure ;
> Home machine
> Move router to center(or corner that I set in designing setup)
> ...


You say "mm works", does this mean you don't get an error message when you save the file? 

You are right about the steps to cut the file except turning on your spindle, if your software controls the spindle then hit go, if not you need to turn your spindle on and let it get up to speed before you hit go. But the results depend on the post processor being correct for your application. Just be ready to hit the emergency stop button when you run that file!


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Set Z height an inch or two above your work piece and run it in the air to see where it goes. If all looks good then set Z at the top of the piece, if that's where your origin is supposed to be for this cut, and then see how it goes from there.

David

PS - Like Mike said, be ready to hit stop even when it's cutting air!


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Mike, yea it saved and I air cut(holding a pencil to router mount). Inch error popped up on program boot.might even work I didn't test it.
Yes I do have to turn on router.
Dave, always do. AFTER about 5 overshoots before I got directions right.
Reading terms etc. Trying to understand Offsets and such


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

OK technical question. How do I resize a dxf ? Its huge. Want to fit into maybe 5inches. Tried to join vectors and drag smaller,can't even find the squares.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> OK technical question. How do I resize a dxf ? Its huge. Want to fit into maybe 5inches. Tried to join vectors and drag smaller,can't even find the squares.


What software are you trying to use?


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

I have gimp,Corel print house,inkscape,artcam2008,trial aspire,sketchup.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Figured it out. Just had to zoom WAY out


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Good.

I would use Inkscape
go to edit -select all
go to view - zoom - selection

That will show you everything in the file


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Made a design, toolpath. No option for post processor. Tried in artcam (only engrave does it show.aspire only save as. I can view cut and save as dxf,whatever.but no actual cut.am I doing something wrong or missing something?


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

And every time I get on here that damn good day luck pops up and I can't get rid of it. Only on here too!


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Jeff lets try something. What basic bits do you have?


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

1/8 endbit


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Think age is affecting me. I did this before. Testing pps. I think I'm getting confused reading so much.but I don't remember seeing save toolpath now


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Jeff here is a zip file with a gcode file saved with the grbl post processor in VCarve Pro. There is a 1.25" square with a 0.75" diameter circle inside. This layout is in the center of the design on a 2.00 design blank so you can zero on your test piece.

The picture is how it should cut. the cut depth is 0.04 The inside of the blue cutline should be the 1.25" square and the inside of the red cutline should be 0.75"

THIS IS USING A 0.125 END MILL


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Thanks mike,I'll try it in the morning. I'm concerned about my mind now.I had a stroke 8 yes ago and and it concerns me that I'm having these issues that I shouldn't be having with this


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

So I just load it into gcode sender?


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Jeff this is supposed to be fun, don't let this get to the point that it starts affecting your health. 

Stop and think about it and you will realize all this software is new to you and some of it is old copies that might not work with the equipment you are trying to use. None of us knew exactly how to run our machines and work with our software without taking the time to watch tutorials, YouTube videos and play with the design software and machine. Some people will tell you just get a picture into the software and save a file then use the file to cut the project. IT IS NOT THAT EASY! 

Just slow down, take a deep breath or two and then take your time to learn at least the basics of the software you decide to use. Don't waste your time with old software, free is alright but old outdated software will just add to your frustration. Get the updated versions so they have the least amount of bugs and check for updates at least once a month if not more often. Then learn the basics of running you CNC using basic shapes so you can tell if adjustments need to be made to the equipment. Then work into harder projects.

That file should be loaded into the Universal Gcode Sender and run. It was saved with the inch grbl post processor in VCarve Pro. Remember this is just a test so don't get upset if it doesn't work or if it works but the shapes are wrong because that is part of the process in finding out what needs to be adjusted or changed.

By the way, you haven't posted any pictures of your build. Some of us would like to see the machine you have assembled.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Mike, more like my health is affecting my hobby.
I just held a pencil
First pic is your file. 
2nd is jackscrafts. 
3rd is my creation. .or maybe not.gotta figure out how to upload on android tablet now.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

It doesn't give an option to cop/paste


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

On yours circle is 13/16.square is 1inch 3/8.
Jacks was 1 inch
I'll reset to mm and try jacks mm.
I guess I just lost track of save toolpath. Bet I did mm on one test and did it in inches. Don't remember now which but, it drew out really tiny instead of 1 inch.
Getting closer.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Jeff since you are not using the bit to cut the gcode then the measurements need to be adjusted by 0.125" because that would be the center of the bit line you are drawing. This will not be a perfect test because you decided to use a pencil instead of the 0.125" bit.

Not sure but I'm thinking the measurement for the circle you made is off, it should be 0.875" or7/8". The measurement you gave for the circle is off by 0.0625" of 1/16". I don't know how you are mounting the pencil so that may be part of the problem. The circle was drawn after the square so another possibility is the wear of the pencil between the drawing for the square and the drawing for the circle, I don't know the hardness rating of the pencil you used. Also, the width of the drawn line might add to the difficulty to get accurate measurements.

The square, as drawn, should measure 1.375" or 1 3/8" and that is the measurement you got for the square.

I'm not sure what the jacks file is but if I remember correctly you used the mm post processor because the inch post processor you found gave you an error message. If it should be 1.00" using the inch post processor when cutting with a bit then the measurement would change to 1.125" when using the pencil and drawing it. If you use the mm post processor and the pencil to draw it instead of a bit to cut it then, if my calculations are correct, it should measure 0.044" and this is really tiny like you say.

*I think it would cut correctly as long as you use a proven inch post processor with the correct bit for the toolpath in your design file.
*
So, learn the design software (CAD) you chose to use, make sure you have a good CAM program to toolpath your design and learn how to use it correctly. This can be separate stand-alone programs or a good combined CAD/CAM all in one program, that will be your choice to make because everyone will do it their own way. 

Just remember you might not get a lot of help using a bunch of free programs because most or at least a lot of the hobbyist CNC owners are using programs like Vectric software that are stand-alone CAD/CAM, well-documented programs with a lot of helpful tutorials to help you learn.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Thanks mike.I just held the pencil in the router hole (in the crack for tightening). When I get vacuum setup done I'll run the tests on pps that seem close.I'm making some beer now so I don't want dust all over.
Thank you so much for your help and patience. I have to fill out some tools in artcam.I guess you can't import db from anywhere.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Before you start using that old copy of ArtCam have you checked to make sure you have a post processor that will work with it? You might be able to design your project in ArtCam but if you don't have a post processor for it then it will only be good for the CAM portion of the process, in that case, you will still need a program for CAM. Of course, you could write or modify a post processor to use with ArtCam and that is just another problem you will have to overcome.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Going to go thru them. Mach3 is supposed to work,a few others. Have to take out tool change and unsupported parts. Honesty mike, building a precision machine that seems fairly accurate is huge success for me. Being able to use it is frosting. Don't have a thing in mind to make,other Than z axis that I want more accurate.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

So mach 3 worked kinda. Rotated 90 degrees. Actually seems ones that did work did that.
Another issue. I set datum to lower left, material 4in x 4in. make model. shows all items to the upper right of 0.
Gcode sender visualization shows same.
Set machine home. Move to center of table. Reset to zero. Hit begin. Z goes to home.
In reading,maybe my build design is bad.if I understand quadrants correct. The way I built is drawer slides.
If machine is in front of you, fixed gantry is on right side. table to left, y axis to you and z up is home. Table moves minus to the right ,y moves away.
Is table then divided at 0 center and plus minus on either side?
Everything moves to exactly where I send g0.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Another question or thought. in model "use offsets" am I missing that?
What I figured was home machine. Always set model datum to lower left, work home as 1/2 inch from machine home.wrong thinking ?


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Not sure on that for what you're using but I use the center of the piece for XY zero probably 90% of the time, fwiw. When I first started on the CNC I used bottom left 100% of the time but switched soon after. However, I would say it really just depends on the work piece and what you're cutting.

David


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Obviously I'm doing something wrong.
Another one. New model,type straight line letters, vcarve , says open vectors ingroup and close. Try ingroup close open vectors."no open vectors found'.try calculate says same thing.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

OK,recap.
1open sender
2 home. What if I set zero before 3 (doesn't affect machine zero right?)
3move to center of work piece, put z to top of piece
4 reset all to zero
5 load file
6 begin
7 watch it crash
OK. I'm going to tear it down,start over. It works but not in proper convention I think.
What's the front of machine etc? Looking everything over, I have switches inverted,x,y axis inverted.
So, if u may.....
1 x is front to back? 
2 x home is forward, y home is left,z home is up
3 gantry in center of x? Forward is +?,-?


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> So mach 3 worked kinda. Rotated 90 degrees. Actually seems ones that did work did that.
> Another issue. I set datum to lower left, material 4in x 4in. make model. shows all items to the upper right of 0.
> Gcode sender visualization shows same.
> Set machine home. Move to center of table. Reset to zero. Hit begin. Z goes to home.
> ...


You really need to take the time to post some pictures of your machine. It would really help us know what you are building and talking about.

when you say you set datum to the lower left. I'm not sure what you mean when you say "make model". You say shows all items to the upper right of o and gcode sender shows the same. I don't see anything wrong with this!

You say you moved to center of table . rest zero hit begin and Z goes to home. you don't say if you hit the emergency stop or if the machine just stopped. if it just stopped then your design file or post processor you used is bad.

So you used draw slides as linier slides, that will cause a lot of errors in the output measurements of your files.

I'm not sure how you have it wired but normal setup is left to right is the X axis, moving left is "- or negative x", moving right is "+ or positive x". From front to back would be the Y axis, moving toward you would be "- or negative y", moving away from you would be "+ or a positive y". The Z axis moving down would be "- or negative z" and moving up would be "+ or a positive z".


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> OK,recap.
> 1open sender
> 2 home. What if I set zero before 3 (doesn't affect machine zero right?)
> 3move to center of work piece, put z to top of piece
> ...


Until you make sure the post processor you are trying to use and the wiring is correct I suggest sticking with basic shapes, square, circle, oval, rectangle. learn how to draw those basic shapes in the software you intend to use, learn how to save the files, learn how to toolpath and save the gcode. 

It is hard to figure out what you are doing when you keep jumping around from one thing to another and not providing details from start to finish


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Okay what you are building is called a cross slide table CNC. This makes things a bit different because I was under the impression that you were building a standard CNC with fixed bed and gantry.

Look at the PDF and you will see what the orientation of the XYZ axis are in relation to how the machine is made. The Y axis will point toward you, X axis will be left and right and the Z axis will be at the back and be up and down.

Only the table moves so that changes things. 

The X Axis is table moving to the left= + or positive, table moving to the right= - or negative

The Y axis is table moving to the to the front= + or positive, table moving to the back= - or negative

The Z axis is still up= + or positive, down= - or negative.

You should be looking at the machine with the Z axis at the rear and the table in front of the Z axis just like it is shown in the PDF.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Mike that's the point.it has been accurate using jog and circle and square. But drawings go in opposite direction. Going to set it up again,put grbl back to defaults .I can't tell if a pp works because it goes in wrong direction. I tried to load pics but my tablet and forum don't agree .forum wants drag and drop but I can't do that android only copies to another folder.
Make model is setting up material and work piece. Set zero to one corner or center. Sender visual shows it but router goes to home instead of away. Hit stop is irrelevant. But yes I pulled plug.
But see,what u say and what I read is opposite. Home is left,front and up. And x is table,y is gantry z is router. THATS why I get confused. Different standard.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

My head is spinning......
What is fairly standard for axis names:
X is usually the longest axis of the table.
Y is usually the shortest axis, usually across the gantry.
Z is the up and down of the tool.

Positive is usually movement of the tool away from home.
Negative is usually movement towards home.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Not alone
Hello All - I have a real newbie question here so apologies if this seems obvious. I am new to Mach3 and CNC. 

I am a bit confused on axes direction for x and y for my small 3 axis vertical milling machine. From the point of view of the operator standing in front of the machine is x+ the table moving left to right and is y+ the table moving towards me - or is this the wrong way round or is it even important? Z axis I have no problem understanding.

If i run g code to cut a square the axes seem to move in the opposite direction to the toolpath on Mach3.

My machine homes with the table all the way towards me and all the way to my left. 

Do I have a problem (if so how do i fix it) or am I just looking at this from the wrong perspective?

Thanks in advance.

TheMule


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

On my two small CNCs, looking straight at the gantry beam, Home is the left front corner. +X is to the right, -X to the left. +Y moves away from me. -Y moves toward me. -Z the router moving down. +Z the router moves up. 

On the industrial 5' x 10' CNC we have at work X is in the 10' direction, Y is the 5' direction, the gantry straddles the 5' width and moves down the 10' direction. Home is the left front corner. +X is to the right. -X is to the left. +Y is away from me, -Y is toward me. +Z the spindle moves up. -Z the spindle moves down.

So generally the Gantry can be parallel to X or Y, but home is conventionally the front left, with +X to the right and +Y straight away from you. 

4D


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

To upload photos click on Go Advanced under this text box and choose the paper clip. You'll get an opportunity to browse to the location of your photos and upload them. After they're uploaded put your cursor where you want the photo and hit the dropdown beside the paper clip to choose the photo you want to insert.

Most of us have CNC routers with stationary beds rather than a moving table like you have on your vertical mill. So for us, XY machine home zero is bottom left closest to us and X moves the spindle left/right with Y moving front to back. Y- is all the way toward you and X- is all the way to your left.

So based on that I would say your table movement is correct, at least as it relates to most CNC routers.

David

Edit - we were typing at the same time, 4D :grin:


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> Mike that's the point.it has been accurate using jog and circle and square. But drawings go in opposite direction. Going to set it up again,put grbl back to defaults .I can't tell if a pp works because it goes in wrong direction. I tried to load pics but my tablet and forum don't agree .forum wants drag and drop but I can't do that android only copies to another folder.
> Make model is setting up material and work piece. Set zero to one corner or center. Sender visual shows it but router goes to home instead of away. Hit stop is irrelevant. But yes I pulled plug.
> But see,what u say and what I read is opposite. Home is left,front and up. And x is table,y is gantry z is router. THATS why I get confused. Different standard.


Okay Here are two pictures, the first one is a cross slide table configuration where the table moves both front to back on the Y axis and left to right on the Xaxis and the Z axis is stationary and the spindle goes up and down on the Z axis, the second one is the normal configuration for a CNC with a stationary bed and a gantry that moves front to back on the Y axis, and the spindle moves left to right on the X axis and the spindle moves up and down on the Z axis.

There is also another configuration that I could not find a picture of where the table moves front to back on the Y axis, the gantry is fixed and straddles the table, the spindle moves right to left on the X axis and the spindle goes up and down on the z axis.

How is your machine set up?


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> My head is spinning......
> What is fairly standard for axis names:
> X is usually the longest axis of the table.
> Y is usually the shortest axis, usually across the gantry.
> ...


All of this depends on what kind of setup you have.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Tomorrow I'll try a better pic. As it sits,right is x home and front is y home
Number 2 ,see how it looks,it actually moved the opposite direction.I think if I swap x and y wires, and move switch back to other side I'll be good.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Looks like you have a standard setup.

Here is a test file I saved with the grbl PP in VCarve Pro.

it is centered in a 2" square, black is if a 0.125 em is used, blue lines are where pencil would draw. This will point to the positive of each axis. If one is pointing in the wrong direction that Axis needs to be changed to the other direction.

*After I look at your picture better I am wondering if the table moves through the gantry or does your gantry move?*

* Anyway the front of the machine is on the left in the picture and the picture was taken looking at the right side of the machine*


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

jeffp60 said:


> Positive is usually movement of the tool away from home.
> Negative is usually movement towards home.



There is no "usually" here.


CNC Machines use the Cartesian Coordinate System. While you can "rotate" the entire coordinate system, you can't arbitrarily change an axis direction.


Typically, X plus is to the Right, and Y plus is moving up or away from you.

If you rotate it 180°, so that X plus it to the left, then Y+ is moving down or towards you.


Also note that this always refers to tool direction. A moving table may seem to be opposite. For X+, to cut to the right, the table actually moves left. Don't let this confuse you.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Table moves thru the gantry. Man is it messed up .... I've switch wires,inverted thru software.moved switches. X y Negative is away from home. So today I'll jog to center swap motor connection, kill homing,get it x y correct and negative positive correct,move gantry switch back to other side.give it a whirl with a tight grip on power cord


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Gerry that was copied from a CNC page, I started out right,but then I would read stuff like that and make a change.the another to adjust what that did.like a Dr giving pills.....


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

First is everyone is home and backed off 5mm
Second pic is settings
Looking at side gantry at right
Y (table) away from home is negative
X (gantry) is negative
Z is negative
Sorry second pic flipped


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Z axis down is negative
Y+ is away(right)
X+ is away(back)
Home 
z up
X back
Y right home should be left
Ignore this.I started from scratch


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

For clarity this picture
Left is home y(table), back is home x(gantry),up is home(z)
Y away from home to the right is negative
X away from home towards you is negative
Z down is negative
Arrows on controller go in correct direction
How do I invert ONLY negative, positive on x and y only?
Invert axis under tools are all unchecked
$3=0 dir port invert mask
$23=0 homing div invert mask


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

OK. So this is correct now.
From open builds.com;
GRBL home is at positive X and positive Y ends (top right), and Z 'up'.
this is the industry standard, so that all of the work are is negative.
Not sure I get it but..... Looking at it using hand thingy (thumb up, index back,middle left) is correct.home is correct,switches are correct,directions are correct. Anyone disagree?


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

jeffp60 said:


> Y+ is away(right)
> X+ is away(back)



This is wrong. In a standard coordinate system, X+ is to the right, and Y+ is up. 

If you rotate the system 90° CW, so that Y+ is to the right, than X+ would be towards you, not back.
Either your X, or your Y axis, is backwards.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

If I stand on the left side ,looking the length of y axis under gantry....right now home is forward left and up.
Table can ONLY go to the right,under the gantry. Home is full left(where it is in pic.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

ger21 said:


> This is wrong. In a standard coordinate system, X+ is to the right, and Y+ is up.
> 
> If you rotate the system 90° CW, so that Y+ is to the right, than X+ would be towards you, not back.
> Either your X, or your Y axis, is backwards.


That was why I changed it to right side before.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Mike, I ran axis test. X point to rear(home) y points to right(away from home)
Swapped stuff around. Both arrows point to home. Y left, xback 
Y goes negative home x goes positive


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

So,I'm chasing shadows in the dark. From grbl github;
Regardless, how the machine coordinate system is setup (all positive, all negative, or a mix) is meaningless, because CNC mills (and other traditional CNCs) operate primarily in work coordinates systems, where work coordinate systems are simply programmable offsets of the reference machine coordinate system. Unless explicitly told to do so, all motion is performed in the active work coordinate system (Grbl has six G54-G59 and defaults to G54)
Setting it back to where mikes test was correct and hopefully x,y both are either pos or neg.to continuity.


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

The work coordinate system is the same as the Machine Coordinate system, as far as axis directions are concerned. The only difference is where the origin is.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> For clarity this picture
> Left is home y(table), back is home x(gantry),up is home(z)
> Y away from home to the right is negative
> X away from home towards you is negative
> ...


There is no set rule for homing, you home it where you want it to home. You still want to look at your CNC from the right side and not from what I would consider the front so this is what I see.

The *table moves* and moving right makes a cut toward the Y- so this is right. Looking from the front the table would move away from you but because the table moves the direction or cut is opposite

The the X moving toward me should be X+ and this would be wrong. Looking from the front it would be moving to the right which is +.

Z moving down is Z- and this is correct if you look from the side or front.

So the X axis needs to be rest to move the opposite direction.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> Mike, I ran axis test. X point to rear(home) y points to right(away from home)
> Swapped stuff around. Both arrows point to home. Y left, xback
> Y goes negative home x goes positive


*So the test was a success!*

The arrow for the X axis should be pointing to what you want to call the front, so you need to set it just the opposite from what it is set now.

The Y arrow should be pointing to what you are calling the right so this is correct Remember if the table moves to the left the cut is actually to the right or in a positive direction.

So the test shows that the X axis is set up wrong, the Y axis is set up correctly.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> Positive is usually movement of the tool away from home.
> Negative is usually movement towards home.


It really doesn't make any difference where you home your machine and the home position doesn't have anything to do with positive or negative direction. A positive move is always positive and a negative move is always negative.

Along the X axis left is negative and right is positive.
Along the Y axis toward you is negative and away from you is positive.
Along the Z axis down is negative and up is positive.

*Remember if you have a sliding table like your machine the table moves just the opposite direction to make the cut in the correct direction.
SO on your machine, the table will move away from you to make a negative cut and the direction is considered negative. The table will move toward you to make a positive cut and the direction is considered positive.*


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Now have to get it that way.one is neg other is pos.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

OK mike, my settings, the test machine from home left front up.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Test shows x home to right!!! Ugghhhh


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> OK mike, my settings, the test machine from home left front up.
> 
> View attachment 369207
> 
> ...


Here your X axis is right and your Y axis is wrong. Did you change both of them? You should have only changed the X-axis.

*Stop worrying about where you home the machine. that is all personal choice and has nothing to do with how it cuts.*


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Well I have to match switches and y home must be to the front looking at the pic.I've flipped x plug, put $23=3, $3=2{think it was 2) but changed nothing.
One at a time of course.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Let's use this pic for reference. Y must be home towards you. I can change everything else.
I want to start over. 
Grbl defaults
$3 - By default, Grbl assumes that the axes move in a positive direction 
Homing switches - usually they are setup in the farthest point in +x, +y, +z of each axes.
If forward is y home,how should x be ?


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> Let's use this pic for reference. Y must be home towards you. I can change everything else.
> I want to start over.
> Grbl defaults
> $3 - By default, Grbl assumes that the axes move in a positive direction
> ...


Jeff like I said *STOP* worrying about where the machine is homed. That has nothing to do with cutting.

Have you re-run the test file, if not run it and post the results.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Several times.the same. It homes correct,jogs correct and I think x y positive away from home. 
It prints y then arrow then arrow then x
Just saying if looking across y table,left is home x is front or back?
Set grbl back to defaults,plug motors the same(right now z and x are the same) get y home and neg or pos right, then make x right.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> Several times.the same. It homes correct,jogs correct and I think x y positive away from home.
> It prints y then arrow then arrow then x
> Just saying if looking across y table,left is home x is front or back?
> Set grbl back to defaults,plug motors the same(right now z and x are the same) get y home and neg or pos right, then make x right.


You need to post a picture of the cut (or drawing) of the test file. Using the test file is how you find out if it is cutting correctly. It will let you know if the X axis or Y axis is set up wrong. Post a picture of the latest cut using the test file and I can tell you if it is right or if something needs changed.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

OK mike, looking down y axis under gantry. Y home is at u.x home is left,z up.
Your test printed y then arrow, then arrow towards left x. 
So that is all good it homes and test is good...but......
Y away From home is + ,x away from home is -


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> OK mike, looking down y axis under gantry. Y home is at u.x home is left,z up.
> Your test printed y then arrow, then arrow towards left x.
> So that is all good it homes and test is good...but......
> Y away From home is + ,x away from home is -


Like I said post a picture so I can see it and tell you if it is configured right


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Of settings?


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Here ya go


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Why do pics flip?


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Must be a lot of people have this issue. 1300 views of this train wreck


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> Of settings?


NO. Post a picture of the test file because I think you are interpreting the result of the test wrong. I am not sure but from your description, there is a problem and I need to see the cut of the test file to be sure.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Guess I am
Looking along x
Y points to left 
x to rear


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> Guess I am
> Looking along x
> Y points to left
> x to rear


Sorry but your picture did not post for some reason. 

Guessing from your description (because I'm not sure from where you are looking) sounds like both X and Y are wrong but of course I'm not looking at the picture so I can't be sure.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

I give up
Page 8 post 80 pic x points back,y points left.
If I don't dismantle it tomorrow I take pic again


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

When you run the test file with a bit it should look like the first picture and the second picture is what it would look like on your machine when it is drawn with your pencil.

If the X arrow points to the left all your files will cut backward.
If the Y arrow points down everything will be cut upside down


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## UglySign (Nov 17, 2015)

jeffp60 said:


> Must be a lot of people have this issue. 1300 views of this train wreck



Well Mike has patience and is willing to figure this out with you.
It's the dog im startin to worry about.










Man, I give you guys credit for this type of stuff.
I would've pushed it out on Grand Ave. by now.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

I started thinking last night and we have been using the setup for the X and Y axis on your machine from you.

That brings up the question of how your blank will be put on your machine.

Simple question, #1 is the bottom of that blank where the picture shows the text for the sliding table or #2 is the bottom of the blank where the text for the spindle is?

If #1 then that is what the test file should look like.
If #2 then the test file needs to be rotated counter-clock wise and the axis wires change from X to Y and the Y to X so the orientation will be right.

Sorry just don't have any more time to draw another picture but this information should set it up whichever way you want it.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

UglySign said:


> Well Mike has patience and is willing to figure this out with you.
> It's the dog im startin to worry about.
> 
> 
> ...


Ronnie, mike is a saint.he has kept me from tossing it so far.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

MEBCWD said:


> I started thinking last night and we have been using the setup for the X and Y axis on your machine from you.
> 
> That brings up the question of how your blank will be put on your machine.
> 
> ...


Going down in a minute.been reading a lot with pics explaining it.
In your drawing flip arrows vertically. Wide end of y arrow at gantry the x on left. I'll send new pic


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

From that position all home. Away is neg.
Test is from that position. Upper right corner Paper is 0,0


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

So I am calling nearest is front,gantry at right. Home zero is back right.
It all matches the screen direction


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Part of the problem was I was thinking of all the way front is home. not in that position upper right is home(0,0).


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

No confirmation from mike but I believe its correct now. Now try to figure out drawing and cutting..


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> No confirmation from mike but I believe its correct now. Now try to figure out drawing and cutting..


Sorry but I left the house about 6:45 AM to a customer's shop and did not get back home until 8:35 PM, took my computer in the house then left to go to the pharmacy so they could straighten out a prescription and stopped and bought a few groceries before I came home. Walked the dogs, put the groceries away and ate. Now I'm going through emails answering customer questions and just now getting to the forums.

Looks good and should cut your files correctly now. I'm not sure what software you have decided to use for design(cam) but you might look at CAMBAM for gcode output.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

No need to apologize. Thanks for all of the time and effort. I'll play with artcam,aircut for a while.I see that errors seem to be tool changes and such that don't effect cutting as grbl just ignores them.I was determined to finish building it. correctly. Not a lie about what I would make with it.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Basic question. Can i leave work size the same all the time? Workspace is 300x250mm. 
What I think I want is go home(switch bounce is 5mm) and always use that point as zero for work. 
In material setup,is that point upper right or lower left? I'm Assuming lower represents front,upper is rear of machine.I'll probably figure this out before it gets answered.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> Basic question. Can i leave work size the same all the time? Workspace is 300x250mm.
> What I think I want is go home(switch bounce is 5mm) and always use that point as zero for work.
> In material setup,is that point upper right or lower left? I'm Assuming lower represents front,upper is rear of machine.I'll probably figure this out before it gets answered.


In your design file you can size the workspace to whatever you want, just make sure it is oriented to the CNC. Remember homing is your personal choice and if you want to use it for the origin of your project make sure you use the proper offset from the home position so you can set up your project in the software correctly. In your design software, that origin point is in relation to where you home the machine.

Remember this picture is how the machine is set up now and how your files will be cut. After you home the machine that origin point is directly under your bit.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Bad news mike. I'm all neg.no matter where I put zero in set up or where I place object,its positive. Router just kept heading to front left (using your pic above). Checking with github to see how to change it


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

It says Setting $3=7 and $23=7 solved the problem. Giving it a try


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

While I play with that what is arcs? I tried a circle and square. G code arcs gave error and halted.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Now home is machine x -260, y-260,z-5. Work is positive


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

I'm totally confused now.using the pic in #124 above. Upper right corner is 0,0.
Gantry moves left(away from 0,0) into negative numbers
Table moves back(towards gantry)infect moving that 0,0 spot on table under the gantry into negative numbers.
Shouldn't it be the table should be all the way up (past gantry) to be at 0,0?
My original design was the router on back side of gantry but then I didn't want all the wires hanging over workspace.
I think its tear it down start over,or rotate gantry 180?


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> I'm totally confused now.using the pic in #124 above. Upper right corner is 0,0.
> Gantry moves left(away from 0,0) into negative numbers
> Table moves back(towards gantry)infect moving that 0,0 spot on table under the gantry into negative numbers.
> Shouldn't it be the table should be all the way up (past gantry) to be at 0,0?
> ...


Leave it just like it is, it is set up right. Like I said homing does not have anything to do with cutting. If you homed it in the upper right corner then X travel to the left is negative and the table moving toward the back on the Y axis should give you negative numbers. 

*So it is set up right!* 

Remember along the X axis a move left is negative and a move right is positive.

And along the Y axis, we talked about this before, *normally* moving toward you along the Y axis is negative and moving away is positive, *BUT this is a sliding bed, SO* that changes positive to negative and negative to positive because that is actually the direction of cut.

So you said you wanted to use the home position for you origin point so all your files should be designed that way, upper right corner as origin.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

This is how you need to set up your design files so everything will cut correctly. That would be your homing point on your machine and that is what you said you wanted to use for your origin for design.


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Here is a new file for you to draw. Since you are homed in the upper right-hand corner, home it then set X and Y to 0.00. Zero your Z axis (pencil) on the surface. Load and run the "New Test 5-9-2019" file and it should look like the picture.

*The Test file has been replaced*


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

I don't know how u did text but I'll try the arrows later


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## difalkner (Jan 3, 2012)

Yay MIKE!!! Incredible tenacity and patience - good job!

David


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> I don't know how u did text but I'll try the arrows later


The arrows file, if that is what you are calling the original "Axis Test" file, won't work with that origin point because it was designed with the origin in the center of the file.

Remember you said you wanted to use the home XY 0.00, 0.00 as your origin point of your design files and use your working area of 250mm X and 300 Y for size so all files from now on have to be designed with the origin in the upper right corner.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Success!!
1st I forgot to switch x,y side in datum.x=300,x=250 !!!
Tried a few pps,shapeko,mach3,etc.kept going past my board and had to estop. Went back to jacks pp.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Rotate 90cw of course
You are a genius! And patient. Now I'm going to bask in the glow of success before I destroy it by trying my z parts.not even sure I need them but, I think it is my weakest point for accuracy. Although I think the pic looks great for just holding a pencil in the hole


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> Success!!
> 1st I forgot to switch x,y side in datum.x=300,x=250 !!!
> Tried a few pps,shapeko,mach3,etc.kept going past my board and had to estop. Went back to jacks pp.


I'm not sure what "switch x,y side in datum.x=300,x=250" means.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

When we switched the table from x to y. In software the measurements where the same,so it was overshooting the ends.I had shut off soft limits too.
But it all seems good now.I'll try a few more with the pencil. That font worked but I tried a different one that kept saying open vectors,when I tried "close vectors' it said 'no open vectors found". Drives me crazy. But now I know it works,machine and post processing, so anything else is me learning!


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

jeffp60 said:


> When we switched the table from x to y. In software the measurements where the same,so it was overshooting the ends.I had shut off soft limits too.
> But it all seems good now.I'll try a few more with the pencil. That font worked but I tried a different one that kept saying open vectors,when I tried "close vectors' it said 'no open vectors found". Drives me crazy. But now I know it works,machine and post processing, so anything else is me learning!


Okay I'll leave the learning and testing to you. 

I do suggest sticking to simple files for now until you get the basics down for your chosen software.

Good luck!


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Thanx mike,I never would have figured it out without your help.too many things were wrong at once and my misconceptions of how it was supposed to be.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

You owe Mike an Amazon gift card for that one!!!

Hope it keeps working ok going forward.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Anyone know if I can just change "inches" to "mm" in post processor? Jacks works but is only inches. Of course I can't find anything that says how to make it one way or the other.


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

jeffp60 said:


> Anyone know if I can just change "inches" to "mm" in post processor? Jacks works but is only inches. Of course I can't find anything that says how to make it one way or the other.


Look for a G20 in your post processor. Change it to G21 and all the following coordinates will be interpreted as millimeters. 

Then to help you remember, change the name of the PP file to indicate mm rather than inch.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Thanks 4d. Putting that in my notes.
What I learned in school today;
Xcarve posts work in artcam 2008.
You can't shrink a dxf file and expect the picture.
And g20 is inches g21 is mm
Hope I live long enough to actually carve something!


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## reuelt (Dec 29, 2008)

jeffp60 said:


> Anyone know if I can just change "inches" to "mm" in post processor? Jacks works but is only inches. Of course I can't find anything that says how to make it one way or the other.


Attached is a little program to convert GCODE file from "inches" to "mm" and vice versa or just to resize any gcode file to any size you want.
I got this FREEWARE from the MACH forum.

(Use FREEWARE 7ZIP to unzip)


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

Thanx reuel, I'll check it out. I got xcarve pp in and mm to work( as far as I can tell anyway). 
My problem now, that not even mike can help with, is I have zero imagination to design something to make. Maybe I'll try the grandkids names for the room.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

And yet ANOTHER stupid question. Been reading and looking everywhere but the correct spot.where in the Dickinson do u change speed and feed? Is it in tool description? Or is that just references?
I ned CNC for dummies.if you want to do this go here.this does that,this does this.....


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

Really need to know what software you decided to use. If you still plan on using the old copy of ArtCam then when you are setting a toolpath you will choose the tool you want. You can also add standard tools at that time if needed. There is a choice under the Toolpath layer to open the tool database.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

I know,mike. What I'm asking is that where program gets the speeds, and if so,do I just make the changes to them there?


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## timon2jkl (Jan 16, 2019)

jeffp60 said:


> I know,mike. What I'm asking is that where program gets the speeds, and if so,do I just make the changes to them there?


That is done by the CAM softwear and is set in that part of whatever program you are using usualy in a tool database 

Sent from my SM-G920P using Tapatalk


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

That is what the tool database is for. You edit the feeds and speeds as defaults to suit your machine. Then when you pick a bit to use it is set to the best feeds and speeds for most jobs. If you have a special toolpath that you want a bit to feed or plunge slower or faster, or if you have spindle control you can change the speed, this will just be for that toolpath and not changed in the database.


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## jeffp60 (Apr 5, 2019)

That's what i thought but wanted to make sure.
Like I said,my hobby was building it. Not using it. I think I need my 12 yo granddaughter to teach me how to.just playing with controls and such.i can do 2d stuff. Make a shape,drill various size holes. Even kinda got a 3d shape .make no sense out of import BMP,trace though.I got half of outline,a bunch of random large dots.can't imagine the work involved in fairy in the tree!!!


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