# I need a suggestion for a very tall bit



## williaty (Mar 24, 2012)

Hello,
I need a suggestion for a straight bit with a very tall cutting face length. I'm edge-jointing 8/4 hardwoods. So the actually cutting length of the bit needs to be at least 55mm (2-1/8") as I lucked out and got 8/4 planks that are really 8/4. Obviously, for a 1/2" shank. I'd prefer a carbide upcut spiral, but I think based on cost I'm probably going to be settling for a straight 2-flute bit.

Any suggestions for specific bits to look at?


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## Dennisefl (Mar 30, 2009)

*long straight bit*

I have one. It's a Freud 11180 single carbide cutter (2 1/2 ") 63 mm long, (1/2 ") 13 mm . shaft.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

1 pc 1/2" SH 2-1/2" Extra Long Straight Router Bit | eBay


==


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## williaty (Mar 24, 2012)

I have to admit that an $11 router bit that large scares the crap out of me! :lol:


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## williaty (Mar 24, 2012)

Dennisefl said:


> I have one. It's a Freud 11180 single carbide cutter (2 1/2 ") 63 mm long, (1/2 ") 13 mm . shaft.


Any idea of the relative cut quality between the Freud 11-180 single flute straight and the Freud 75-109 solid carbide spiral upcut? Since the idea is to end up with glue-ready edges, cut quality is an issue. However, there's about a 3:1 price difference there.


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

I don't get what are 8/4 planks is that 2" ?

About straight bits:

Amana ref 45427 2 1/2 1/2 straight
Amana ref 45477 3"" 1/2 straight

Straight Plunge - A-MAX - Extended Life

Got the 3" 1/2 cuts very well realy nice sharpening.

If you just want a neat edge for gluing, no real need for spiral cut.
A sharp straight will do.
You will probably have to sand the gluing, and make things flat.

A spiral, pulls or push fibers when cutting , leaving one side whorse than the other.
It could make a little better finnish, on one side.
A compression spiral will give a nice finnish both sides, but real pricey.

See:
http://www.routerforums.com/router-bits-types-usage/28685-spiral-vs-straight-bits.html

In fact it's easy to do with hand routing , using a ruler.

Could be done to on table routing,then think the router table as a jointer:
it really needs a split-fence with micro- adjustment, if you want to make them straight.

I'll adjust the pass for beig a 1/2mm take with the in-fence and the out-fence
to be just level to the bit.Otherwise you will end up cutting circles...

I wonder why all router tables got not micro adjustment on the out fence? 
(Some adhesive material on the out-fence could do the trick.)

About making a flat assembly, i' ll recommend to alternate exterior of wood on top
and next plank , exterior of wood down. And so on. Easy if you cut from large planks,
else difficult to see growing circles.

Regards

Regards


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## williaty (Mar 24, 2012)

ggom20 said:


> I don't get what are 8/4 planks is that 2" ?


I think this may be a US-only bit of weirdness. In the US, hardwood lumber is sold by thickness expressed in terms of how many quarters of an inch thick it started out before any kind of surfacing or final milling. So you get 2/4 for half-inch (13mm), 3/4 for three-quarters (19mm), all the way up to 16/4 for 4 inch (100mm). However, those are nominal, not actual, thicknesses. When you buy an 8/4 plank at a local lumber reseller (as opposed to going to the sawmill), it won't actually be 2" thick. It'll be something less than 2" (51mm) thick but thicker than 1.75" (44mm). Typically, if it's surfaced (meaning planed smooth and flat) on one side (called S1S) it'll be 1-13/16" (46mm) thick. If it's smooth and flat on both sides (S2S), it'll be about 1.75" thick (44mm) thick. I have an unusual plank here in that it was sold as 8/4, yet it's S1S and 50mm thick. That's unusually thick for American 8/4 lumber.



> Could be done to on table routing,then think the router table as a jointer:
> it really needs a split-fence with micro- adjustment, if you want to make them straight.


Yes, I have the Veritas router table and fence. The fence is split and there are thin shims provided to move the outfeed fence anywhere from 0.010" to 0.060" (0.25mm to 1.5mm).


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Hello
Thanks for explanations about strange sizes in the US!
Ty said:
"Yes, I have the Veritas router table and fence. The fence is split and there are thin shims provided to move the outfeed fence anywhere from 0.010" to 0.060" (0.25mm to 1.5mm)."

I think you got the right stuff!

Regard


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## williaty (Mar 24, 2012)

ggom20 said:


> Hello
> Thanks for explanations about strange sizes in the US!


Oh, it gets worse! Boards are sold by the "board foot". A "board foot" is a unit of 144 cubic inches of a wood. It does not have to be a foot on any dimension! However, the cost per board foot varies with how many sides of the board are surfaced, how thick the board is (which as we've just seen is weird in itself), and what "grade" the wood is (roughly the quality, expressed as a completely incomprehensible system using grades like Firsts, Seconds, Selects, Betters, and some one for "junk" lumber).

So if you go to buy an oak board, you're going to face a price list that will have different costs, all expressed per board foot, for things like "8/4 Fst/Sec S4S", "5/4 Sel/Btr S2S", and "16/4 Fst/Sec S1S". Then you have to look at the board you've found, try to figure out what grade it is, count how many sides it's been surfaced, measure how thick it is and try to guess what nominal thickness it started as, measure the overall dimensions to calculate the total board feet in the plank, find the line on the price sheet so you know what the board should cost, and then take it up to the lady at the cash register and see if her idea about what that board costs matches yours! :blink:


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

Fun!

Reminds me of some visits to wood dealers, ends up making a price for a lot ,
without consulting too many lines on computer based datas.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

IMHO, You would be better-off using a jointer. I know this is the Router Forum, but a jointer is better suited for this wood thickness. A router bit cantilevered that distance will require a slower-than-normal feed speed, which often leads to burning. Many will do this, but you would never catch me doing that!


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## williaty (Mar 24, 2012)

OPG3 said:


> IMHO, You would be better-off using a jointer. I know this is the Router Forum, but a jointer is better suited for this wood thickness. A router bit cantilevered that distance will require a slower-than-normal feed speed, which often leads to burning. Many will do this, but you would never catch me doing that!


Don't have a jointer and can't get gone. This is what I have to live with.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Without a jointer is definitely a draw-back. How about a tablesaw? Please be very careful making a cut that tall.


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## williaty (Mar 24, 2012)

OPG3 said:


> Without a jointer is definitely a draw-back. How about a tablesaw? Please be very careful making a cut that tall.


Same story on the table saw. Don't have one, can't get one. It's why I'm using the Festool track saw. Does all the table saw operations I need it to do.


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

will work!
If using Festool track-saw the cut is as good as with a panel- saw.
Then the router-table , if well adjusted and cut not to big will work to.
I suggested 0.5mm , for not having bending issues while cutting.
Using a flat adjustment for the out-side of the table is just as using a jointer.
Any litle difference of level between out-side and cutting bit will cause 
a curve in the cut.But if all curves comes in same direction, gluing will be possible.
An other option, witch I prefer, is to use a straight rule and hand-routing.
It's always straight. And allows to make a few passes in depht.

Regards


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## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

williaty said:


> I have to admit that an $11 router bit that large scares the crap out of me! :lol:


If it makes you feel any better, it's for sale at $21 here in Canada.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

williaty said:


> Any idea of the relative cut quality between the Freud 11-180 single flute straight and the Freud 75-109 solid carbide spiral upcut?


Single flute cutters will always cut quite roughly - that's what they're designed to do and in any case they tend to be less well balanced (especially after a few sharpenings) - but the will cut extremely quickly (i.e. high feed rates) because the chip gullet is massive when compared to a multi-flute or even a spiral bit. If you can live with the quality of cut then they are the cheapest option for production work

Regards

Phil


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