# Elu MOF 177e - Bearing Replacement



## shedhappy (Jun 15, 2011)

Query for the techie types -

My Elu gradually got very noisey after bout 20 years so thought I'd take her apart and put in new bearings.
Took off the electronics module and front end bringing with it the large (cutter end) bearing - no problem.
Now I'm stuck - or rather the commutator end spindle is in the bearing.
How do I go about extracting?


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

shedhappy said:


> My Elu gradually got very noisey after bout 20 years so thought I'd take her apart and put in new bearings.
> Took off the electronics module and front end bringing with it the large (cutter end) bearing - no problem.
> Now I'm stuck - or rather the commutator end spindle is in the bearing.
> How do I go about extracting?


Take the brown speed sensor "doughnut" off the top of the commutor shaft. Below that you'll find a circlip holding the shaft onto the bearing. Remove this, press the shaft off with a small 2-leg puller (battery terminal puller will do). The bearing may well need to be knocked out of the housing with a hammer and drift. 

There's a great video by eReplacementParts on YouTube which shows how this is done on a Bosch 1615 (GOF1600A/GOF1700ACE in Europe). That router is similar in construction to the MOF177, near enough to figure out how to strip down an MOF177. The bit you need is around 4:30

Regards

Phil


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## shedhappy (Jun 15, 2011)

Thanks Phil

Yes, I've removed both the little brown disk (speed sensor?) and the circlip.
I've supported the router case on the top edges of the hardwood jaws of the bench vice and, using a short piece of heavy guage brass tubing, bearing on the end of the shaft the circlip was on - not on the thinner one that the disk was on!, tapped with hammer as hard as was prepared to go.
Unfortunately, spindle remained unmoved despite having applied release oil several times - because maybe the plastic structure is absorbing the impacts?

Realise task needs some kind of puller - can u advise what type?
The bearing socket is plastic of course and so also the 'spokes' attaching it to the outer case. 
Feel I need to apply the force only between base of this bearing socket and the spindle end and not sure if the legs on 'normal' pullers would be able to fit in far enough underneath.
Any further thoughts wud be very much appreciated.

And thanks again for your response.


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## charlesb (Jun 15, 2011)

Also see http://www.routerforums.com/general-routing/27772-dewalt-dw625-repair-help-please.html as its addressing the same issue with the same router, as Elu MOF 177e is the same as DW625,


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

shedhappy said:


> Realise task needs some kind of puller - can u advise what type?


Last time I did one I used a 2-leg battery terminal puller. You need something pretty small to get the legs under the plastic "bridge". Charles B's refers to what Steve Blackdog posted and it says the same sort of thing, I think. Note that you are trying to press the shaft off the bearing rather than trying to get the shaft and bearing out together - that's why you don't want to go biffing the top of the armature shaft with anything (it can form a burr and make extraction really hard). Only other thing I will say is that I ended up scrapping my first ever MOF177e when the top bearing siezed because it got so hot that the case melted and deformed. It was cheaper to buy a secondhand one than buy the spares.

Regards

Phil


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## shedhappy (Jun 15, 2011)

Thanks folks - that about covers it.

Will look for a 2-leg puller. 
(Presume the legs of usual 3-legged one would not align with the slots)
Feel I'll need to keep screw dead in line with spindle when tightening in case it flies off and does damage.

Best regards to All


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## shedhappy (Jun 15, 2011)

O dear, O dear! I am so dissappointed that my once pride&joy router is now seriously OVERHEATING the collet end of the spindle after running for less than a minute 
I can only presume it's due to rotational slippage between the inner race of the bearing and the spindle. 
I've fully tightened the 'lock ring' which must be for the purpose of solidifying both together.
FULL tightness of course has pulled the spindle (armature shaft) a couple of mm towards the collet so the saucer washers under the other (tail end) bearing would be now fully compressed
With the circular cover-plate for the lock ring removed, I can see the outer race rotating very slowly in it's housing. This cover has a projecting rib - the diameter of the outer race, which may (?) clamp it stationery when screwed back in place.

Problem is , though a one time Instrument Technician, without detailed reassembly instructions I'm, frankly, buggered!

Any help to dig me out of this would be much appreciated


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