# Base Plate Help



## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I have two of the small base plates from Oak Park and I need to mount one to a Mastercraft Model 54-7036-6 plunge router so I can use a OP bushing to drill some bench dog holes in a bench top I am making. I made a template out of peg board to evenly space the holes so that's why I want to use the guide bushing.
As you can see in the picture the plastic base plate that came with the router has no way to center the plate. Of course none of the holes in either OP base plate match. So how can I set this up to drill the needed holes in one of the base plates and get it centered?? I am sure this is probably easy but I'm missing something. HELP!:'(


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## Cassandra (Mar 15, 2006)

Hi Deb:

One way to attack this problem is to mount a 1/4 inch diameter rod in the collet and a 1/4-inch ID guide in the base. This will allow you to centre one of the base plates on the router. Then you need to transfer somehow the hole pattern from the router base to the subbase.

From the original baseplate (centre one), would the centre of the baseplate be the crossing of the diagonals between the mounting holes?

I have used the base-plate from Lee Valley Tools (Adapter Base Plate - Lee Valley Tools) for my templates. Maybe you might consider doing the same?

Cassandra


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Cassandra. I ran into a bigger problem. Seems the OP guide bushings will not fit in the base casting of this router. The base casting is the same shape as the base plate and the opening is too small for the guides. Guess I will have to pull my bigger router out of the OP table and try that. 
Looks like it's going to be one of THOSE days


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

CanuckGal said:


> Thanks Cassandra. I ran into a bigger problem. Seems the OP guide bushings will not fit in the base casting of this router. The base casting is the same shape as the base plate and the opening is too small for the guides. Guess I will have to pull my bigger router out of the OP table and try that.
> Looks like it's going to be one of THOSE days


Deb,
That is why I, personally, don't use OP products. They are too proprietary, or to say they won't work with anything else that isn't made by them. Maybe you can just buy a PC style 1/4" ID bushing to use for centering your base.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dep

This just my 2 cents.

It's going to be tricky anyway you do it.

This is what I would do..The base plate for the Mastercraft,put in on so 1/4' thick stock (MDF) take pencil and go around the inside of the base plate then remove the base plate and then draw a box around the copy of the drawing,then a line from corner to corner, you now have a X in the center, then drill a 1/8" hole on the X mark,,then cut the pattern out so it fits in the base plate ,once it's just right, put in on the drill press and drill a 1/4" hole in the X in the center...,,, then put the brass guide in the OP plate ( use the guide that has a 1/4" in the center) then put the Mastercraft plate down on the OP plate ,then line up both plates ( use the bit that's in the drill press to line up the plates) and then use some masking tape and stick the mastercraft plate to the OP plate ,,,( I suggest the OP plate one without all the holes) then remove the 1/4" bit and chuck up the bit for the mounting holes and drill out the holes, once you have drilled the holes out, chuck up a counter sink bit and drill out the 4 holes, then mount the Mastercraft to the OP plate..

Note ***keep in mind the handles of the Mastercraft router they must slip into the 11" hole easy..don't use the slots in the OP plate,drill new ones..


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CanuckGal said:


> I have two of the small base plates from Oak Park and I need to mount one to a Mastercraft Model 54-7036-6 plunge router so I can use a OP bushing to drill some bench dog holes in a bench top I am making. I made a template out of peg board to evenly space the holes so that's why I want to use the guide bushing.
> As you can see in the picture the plastic base plate that came with the router has no way to center the plate. Of course none of the holes in either OP base plate match. So how can I set this up to drill the needed holes in one of the base plates and get it centered?? I am sure this is probably easy but I'm missing something. HELP!:'(


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Use a 1/4" bushing with a guide pin. Put lipstick on the mounting holes on the router. This will atleast mark the holes for you. 

Not understanding why the guides won't fit your router. The plate is much larger than the OP plate. Something doesn't add up. A pic of the router would be helpful.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I knew it was going to sound wacky so I took some more pictures.:bad: You can see the router base is not a "hole". The OP rings are too big. The router has a dust collection attachment that fits in those two screw holes. 
This was the first router I ever bought back when I knew absolutely NOTHING about routers. I know enough now to regret buying it.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

They make a plate to fit that router that will take on the PC type guides but NOT the OP size..if you want to see the plate I will post it..

it looks alot like the BOSCH type plate ring..it's default item for the Triton router kit


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CanuckGal said:


> I knew it was going to sound wacky so I took some more pictures.:bad: You can see the router base is not a "hole". The OP rings are too big. The router has a dust collection attachment that fits in those two screw holes.
> This was the first router I ever bought back when I knew absolutely NOTHING about routers. I know enough now to regret buying it.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Deb,

No, not wacky at all. I have a router similar to your situation. I do suggest that Bj does post some pics of the plate.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

BJ it would be great if you can point me in the right direction of something that might redeem this router. Thanks!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

Washer to take on the 1 3/16" brass guides,quick and easy the plate is screwed down to the router base plate..
You can cut/drill it out to take on the OP type ( 1 1/2" ID) if that's all you have on hand.. 

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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

You know me you can make your own with a washer from the hardware store or go to one of the router supply stores and see if they have one for the Triton,many other routers use the same type 

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CanuckGal said:


> BJ it would be great if you can point me in the right direction of something that might redeem this router. Thanks!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I can see how the washer would work for smaller guide bushings, I think I could manage to make a base plate that would take on smaller ones. But there is no way those OP bushings are ever going to fit in that router unless I modify that base casting. The nut simply won't fit between those two screw holes. If I never want to use the dust collector it could be fixed in a jiffy 

I definitely had one of THOSE days today. First of all I ordered a plunge base for my dremel tool and it came today. Unfortunately my tool is not an authentic "Dremel" and it doesn't fit in the plunge base. Then I had this router issue. So I pulled my other router out of the OP table, mounted one of the 7" base plates and the guide bushings only to discover I didn't have the router bit I needed to make the holes I wanted.
I decided to drown my sorrows in ice cream so I went to the grocery store only to discover as I got out of the car that I'd forgot my purse at home. 
I finally just gave up.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Deb,

[ I decided to drown my sorrows in ice cream so I went to the grocery store only to discover as I got out of the car that I'd forgot my purse at home. 
I finally just gave up.[/QUOTE]

That happens when you storm out of the house looking for ice cream....:sarcastic:

Don't worry, it will all be good in the long run.

You have the right guys on this forum to sort out the problem.

James


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

Your router and most like it just can't take the OP guides...

It can with some more work,with spacer on the router base to move the guide off and away from the base.

If you want to use the OP type (size) make new base plate out of some plastic with 1 1/2"hole in it and spacer under the pasltic that's about 3/8" thick and the OP guides will fit right in..
If I had you hear I could show you how in about 5 mins, how to get it done.. 

Some will say the spacer will make it hard to use the shorter bits..not so with.........Router Collet Extension,,think out side the box thing..

Router Collet Extension
all you need is the #9465 and 1/4" adapter from MLCS, for the smaller shank bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/router_collet.html
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CanuckGal said:


> I can see how the washer would work for smaller guide bushings, I think I could manage to make a base plate that would take on smaller ones. But there is no way those OP bushings are ever going to fit in that router unless I modify that base casting. The nut simply won't fit between those two screw holes. If I never want to use the dust collector it could be fixed in a jiffy
> 
> I definitely had one of THOSE days today. First of all I ordered a plunge base for my dremel tool and it came today. Unfortunately my tool is not an authentic "Dremel" and it doesn't fit in the plunge base. Then I had this router issue. So I pulled my other router out of the OP table, mounted one of the 7" base plates and the guide bushings only to discover I didn't have the router bit I needed to make the holes I wanted.
> I decided to drown my sorrows in ice cream so I went to the grocery store only to discover as I got out of the car that I'd forgot my purse at home.
> I finally just gave up.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

BJ I sure wish you lived next door.  A lot of guys and gals on here I'd like to live next door to come to think of it. I'd sure get things done a heck of a lot faster!
So if I were to buy a router that would work with all this OP stuff which one would you suggest? My other Mastercraft one works with it all, but I don't want to have to take it out of the table all the time. And I really don't want to buy another Mastercraft router. My options are to buy a BIGGER router (over 2 HP)  and use my current table router for portable routing and put the bigger one in the table, or buy something less hefty for portable routing. But I definetly want something that works with the OP plates and bushings. I have a lot of money invested in it and I want to be able to use it all. 
I`m always open to suggestions. I may not be good at wood working yet, but I can shop circles around anyone LOL.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

I would suggest the one that was made for the OP setup, and the one that he had in it when you got it ...but didn't get in the deal..

Hitachi M12V ½” 3-1/4 Peak HP Router, Plunge, Electronic Variable Speed
Hitachi M12V Â½â€� 3-1/4 Peak HP Router, Plunge, Electronic Variable Speed (Reconditioned)
Hitachi M12V2 3-1/4 Peak HP Router, Plunge, Variable Speed (Reconditioned)

just to show the price not to buy from ▼
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_hi?url=search-alias=tools&field-keywords=Hitachi+M12V&x=18&y=20

I have two of the Freud routers and it's great router and will work in the OP setup and it's a stock item with RCS below..at 162.oo.
http://www.reconditionedsales.com/F...eed_Plunge_Router_(Reconditioned)___i442.aspx
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CanuckGal said:


> BJ I sure wish you lived next door.  A lot of guys and gals on here I'd like to live next door to come to think of it. I'd sure get things done a heck of a lot faster!
> So if I were to buy a router that would work with all this OP stuff which one would you suggest? My other Mastercraft one works with it all, but I don't want to have to take it out of the table all the time. And I really don't want to buy another Mastercraft router. My options are to buy a BIGGER router (over 2 HP)  and use my current table router for portable routing and put the bigger one in the table, or buy something less hefty for portable routing. But I definetly want something that works with the OP plates and bushings. I have a lot of money invested in it and I want to be able to use it all.
> I`m always open to suggestions. I may not be good at wood working yet, but I can shop circles around anyone LOL.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Hey Deb, I'd hate to talk anyone out of buying more routers,but.. Why not cut out the metal base with a jigsaw? From your 1st pic, it looks like there's a circular groove on the bottom that you could follow. You just need to decide if dust collection, or guides are more important for this router.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks BJ. Looks like it's hard to find this router. I couldn't find it in Canada anywhere and both your links are back ordered. And no I don't want to pay 500.00 for it..lol. The spouse and I are barely on speaking terms due to my tool buying as it is. HAHA.
Looks like I may have to do some legwork tomorrow. 
I see there is a version 2. Would it not work with the OP parts? The design is a little different but I don't know if that includes the base plate. 
3 1/4 HP...mmmmm... I like it already..lol. Thanks for your help! I'll let you know what I find.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Rusty that's obviously the smart decision. I don't think the DC is all that important on that particular router. I have never used it yet. The thought did cross my mind several times today. It wouldn't be hard to "make it fit". 
I won't do anything drastic until I see if I can actually find that Hitachi model. If I do I may sell this router and it would be better to sell it intact. I won't get much for it as it is. I think I only paid 60.00 for it new. I know, I know, that was too much. LOL
Live and learn as they say. 
But thanks for keeping me grounded


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Deb, rather than play around with the base plates I would cut out the base on your router. This has to be done on the big Hitachi's as well so don't feel bad. Don't worry about making the opening round. I would use a cut off wheel in a die grinder and just cut the material out of the way. HF offers an air powered cut off tool for about $6 that will do a great job. I'm sure CT has something similar.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Mike. I have a rotozip and "imitation" dremel that will take care of that casting one way or another


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

Just my 2 cents


You will not have the router for every,,it's just on loan so to speak,once it's been remove it can't not be put back on, you want to add to a tool not take away from it.. it's like a paint job once it's done it's done and can't be change back..

I see so many remove the ears on the routers and I don't know why,they put them in place for one thing not for you to remove them.
It's a plunge router and that's what it was made for..
I will say I one router that they have been removed but I did not do it and I will say I have two only routers that still have them in place and they both work just fine,you just need to think out side the box..once the group starts running to the edge of the cliff stop and look around b/4 you make the jump, it can't be taken back..

But you do what you want it's your router to do what you want with it.

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CanuckGal said:


> Rusty that's obviously the smart decision. I don't think the DC is all that important on that particular router. I have never used it yet. The thought did cross my mind several times today. It wouldn't be hard to "make it fit".
> I won't do anything drastic until I see if I can actually find that Hitachi model. If I do I may sell this router and it would be better to sell it intact. I won't get much for it as it is. I think I only paid 60.00 for it new. I know, I know, that was too much. LOL
> Live and learn as they say.
> But thanks for keeping me grounded


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

CanuckGal said:


> I can see how the washer would work for smaller guide bushings, I think I could manage to make a base plate that would take on smaller ones. But there is no way those OP bushings are ever going to fit in that router unless I modify that base casting. The nut simply won't fit between those two screw holes. If I never want to use the dust collector it could be fixed in a jiffy
> 
> I definitely had one of THOSE days today. First of all I ordered a plunge base for my dremel tool and it came today. Unfortunately my tool is not an authentic "Dremel" and it doesn't fit in the plunge base. Then I had this router issue. So I pulled my other router out of the OP table, mounted one of the 7" base plates and the guide bushings only to discover I didn't have the router bit I needed to make the holes I wanted.
> I decided to drown my sorrows in ice cream so I went to the grocery store only to discover as I got out of the car that I'd forgot my purse at home.
> I finally just gave up.


Hi Deb, I can definitely relate to you having one of THOSE days and other aspects of your situation that might not be appropriate to discuss on this forum. I live with them myself. One difference: I drown my sorrows in dark chocolate rather than ice cream!

Using the OP guide bushings, which are larger than the standard guide bushings, is the way to go. Among other things, the 1 1/2 in is close to Template Tom's/Doak's 40 mm guide. 

BJ beat me to what I was going to suggest, putting a spacer between the router base. and the OP base. His drawings are exactly what I would do, rather than cutting away parts of the router base, but adding the spacer might make using some short bits difficult and would reduce the effective plunge distance, which cutting away the base would not cause. 

I guess there is one difference with Bj's plan. I would attach the spacer using screws that fit your router base, and in the spacer put screw holes that match the OP base scre holes. From what I can tell, the OP base plate is larger than the router base, so the spacer could be nearly or equal to size of the OP base. If so, then a screw with nut could be used. 

I hope I have made a useful contribution; whatever route you choose, best of luck.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dep (Deb)

I was out in the shop with the cam and you came across my mind,so took some snapshots of the OP plate and alll the ways you can rework it and use just about any router with it,you will also see some of the others router with the ears on them and how to get to the bits,plus a shot of the upgrade push block for the Incra jig you now have,the upgrade will keep the push to the fence and that's big thing with this jig and some other shots just for kicks.. 

====


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## charimon (Apr 8, 2009)

*More rambling*

Guys
I think there is a better approach to the task.

If i understand the task.
1 it is to drill some bench dog holes into a work bench with a router. 
2 Canuck gal has already decided to use peg board for her template.
3 Are you planning oh routing a Grid or a couple rows..... doesn't matter.


My proposed idea.

1 scrap your template as it is now
2 take peg board 5" larger (length and width for the registration pins) than you need
2.1 align it to your bench as you want it with the first cut at your bottom right
2.2 secure it to the bench
3. cut out a square base 8" 3/8 or thicker, of anything as strong as Baltic birch. 
3.1 using your old base as template place it bottom down on the lower right corner. map holes. drill and countersink.
3.2 mount to the base of your router 
3.3 Chuck a 1/4 drill stock, rod, or trim bit
3.4 lock down the plunge and turn the router over so that the side that is away from you when routing is still away 
3.5 Slip a scrap of peg board over the bit and index it to the base. map the forth hole up and the 4 hole to the right and drill 7/32 holes 
3.6 from the top side thread in 1/4 bolts 3/16 past the bottom of the base so that they register in the pegboard template (or drill 1/4 holes and tap in 1/4 dowel thanks mirko)
3.7 chuck in your 20 mm or 3/4 bit 
4 rout your holes starting in the lower right of the pattern 

Thanks Craig


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The modification I suggested will not effect any normal use of the router except the use of the dust collection accessory. The factory sub base plate will still fit. The only change is when attached to an Oak Park plate there will be clearance for the guide bushing. I see no way this is not a winning solution. "Simple is better"


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

I will have to agree with Mike on this one. Unless you just have to have the dust collection on this router, removing the offending pieces seems to be the simplest solution.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike and George

Ok .it's say she cuts off the ears then what,it will still not let the OP guide in place not to say anything about the brass lock nut ,it will not turn .
The OP dust collection system is not a big deal it only gets small part of the chips the norm..

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...28d1242340297-base-plate-help-router-ring.jpg

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curiousgeorge said:


> I will have to agree with Mike on this one. Unless you just have to have the dust collection on this router, removing the offending pieces seems to be the simplest solution.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I think the suggestion was to cut out the entire "ring area" in the bottom of the base as in the photo below. That would have solved the problem completely. I could just use my table mounted router with the table plate as a base plate just for drilling these holes. :moil:And yes I was doing a grid pattern of a sort. However after all my troubles I realized I didn't have 3/4 inch bit that would work. The one I have does not have a cutter all the way across the bottom of the bit. I know the kind of bit I need... just not the proper name for it. Bottom cleaning bit maybe?
I don't know yet if I am going to modify the router or not. There are lots of good work arounds posted here. Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and chuck up a forstner bit in the drill. I just thought the router method would be quicker.:lazy:


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Bj thanks for all the pics! I like the Incra add ons. Very good ideas. Some of your base plates have got me thinking...that could be good or bad depending on what kind of day I'm having..LOL. I'll let you know what I come up with. You have some very interesting ideas there. 
Could I just come and spend my vacation week in your shop?? It has to be the most interesting place I have ever seen! So many things.. so little time...lol.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Deb,

I know this has been suggested once before but, perhaps it might be best to look at getting another router. Just a thought.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Ken you don't have to twist my arm when it comes to buying more tools! I really was considering a larger model router (3+HP) before all this started. Maybe this was just the excuse (pr push) I needed  But I do want to make sure what ever I get is compatible with what I already have.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Deb, I have the Hitachi M12V2, and have been very happy with it. Allthough I never really use it free hand (it stays in the table). With the factory sub base removed it has plenty of room for large panel bits, and the largest guides. There are no "ears" on the version 2.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

HI Deb,

I have 2 different craftsmen models and 2 Makita 3612C's. I got lucky with my OP plates that they interchange without any difficulties. I don't know what routers you currently have but, by judging the from the 2 plates. You shouldn't have any issues if you went with craftsmen. They should mount using either the 3 hole or 4 hole patterns. Double check with the OP site though, there's a listing as to which routers fit which plate patterns. 

Hope this helps.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Ken - geez some things should be so obvious. DOH! I never even thought about checking the OP site. I like the Hitachi router BJ suggested but seems hard to find I and I haven't found the M12V2 model in Canada either. I was leaning toward a Freud model before this all started. I'll check the OP site and see what other models they list. THANKS!


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

Amazon.com: Hitachi M12V2 15 amp 3-1/4-Horsepower Plunge Base Variable Speed Plunge Router with 1/4-inch and 1/2-inch Collets: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Help > Shipping & Delivery > Shipping Rates and Times > International Shipping  > Canada


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Rusty when I go to Amazon and click on the router I get this message:

"In Stock.
We are not able to ship this item to your default shipping address. "

Obviously they don't ship it to Canada


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

This is what I've found on Amazon.

*Product Details* 

* Product Dimensions: * 11 x 9 x 12 inches ; 12.2 pounds
*Shipping Weight:* 21.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
*Shipping: *Currently, item can be shipped only within the U.S.
*Shipping Advisory:* This item must be shipped separately from other items in your order. Additional shipping charges will not apply.
*ASIN:* B000GKC28W
*Item model number:* M12V2
*Average Customer Review:* *39 Reviews*​ 5 star: (19) 4 star: (8) 3 star: (4) 2 star: (3) 1 star: (5) 
*› See all 39 customer reviews...* 

3.8 out of 5 stars See all reviews (39 customer reviews)
 *Amazon.com Sales Rank:* #18,113 in Home Improvement (See Bestsellers in Home Improvement)Popular in this category: (What's this?)
#19 in Home Improvement > Power Tools > Routers > *Plunge Routers* Would you like to *update product info* or *give feedback on images*?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

They can't ship POWER tools over the boarder to Canada, it's a thing that they have set up with Canada,the same thing is true if you buy it from the Tire /House of Tools/stores, lets say in Canada..

=======


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Good news I found a couple of Canadian outlets that MAY have the Hitachi. One is about 60 miles from me and has it listed for 179.00 CDN but I won't know till Tuesday if they have one in stock (Long Weekend here in Canada). They also have the M12V2 listed for 199.00. The other 15 miles away but that retailer tends to overcharge for everything. It may well cost that ridiculous 400.00 there. But I will check it out. 
I'll use the long weekend to soften the spouse up...LOL

It's funny about Amazon, we have a Canadian branch but they don't sell half the stuff on it that they sell in the US. Someday the world will realize that Canadians don't live in igloos and drive dogsleds. Well not all of us ..LOL.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

OMG.. I was just searching the Oak Park site and discovered they actually DO make a baseplate just for this Mastercraft router with a 1 1/2 center. I still don't see how the brass guides will fit????


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

CanuckGal said:


> OMG.. I was just searching the Oak Park site and discovered they actually DO make a baseplate just for this Mastercraft router with a 1 1/2 center. I still don't see how the brass guides will fit????


Deb, even though the plate will accept them, the router wont, without being altered. The base on my avatar was made for my Bosch 1613, but there was not enough clearance to effectively tighten the guide nut. Since it also fit my Sears 26620 (Bosch 1617 clone) I chose not to alter my 1613. I think you would need a pretty long 3/4" plunge bit to bore proper bench dog holes (even longer if you use a stand off sub base). But your quest to attain a hand held router that accepts the large guides is worthwhile. Whichever direction you choose to go.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Deb,

I suggest you look at getting Marc Sommerfeld's DVD "Router Tables Made Easy". Now, everyone is probably going to be asking why would I suggest this? Well, you'll see that Marc has to "modify" one of the 2 Triton's he uses. He show's the most simplest way to modify your router.

This is all considering that you will or want to modify yours. At a later time.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Let me try this one last time. Deb, if you remove the material where the two center screws are on your router base then the OP guides will fit through. You can make your own sub base plate with ease, as shown else where on the forums. No muss, no fuss, no big cash outlay. If you want to purchase anything from the states we do have our little underground railroad. PM me for details.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

That's true, but the bottom line is Mastercraft router is not made to work on the OP setup,just use the Mastercraft router for your hand router jobs and get a router that will work..I will say the OP plates you now have will not work for you on all jobs the center hole is just to small..many of the router bits you will want to use will be 1 1/2" diam.

You will need to rework one of them or buy one from OP..I did post a picture how to rework one that will take on all the guides on the market place today..
It's a cheap and easy fix, ,, about 3.oo dollars for the stock to make the rings to hold the guides...see the 1st.picture I posted..

http://www.routerforums.com/117347-post25.html
============


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Rusty you are right about the bit length. I found a plunge bit but it was WAY too short for the dog holes.  Looks like this idea has been bad from the get go. 

Mike and Ken I could easily modify the base as I am much better working with metal then with wood.:moil:. But I think I am going to leave that little router intact and just buy the bigger one I was wanting anyway. 

BJ I have the 11" OP plate with the 3 1/8" hole. It's part of the raised panel door setup that I also have. There isn't much of the OP stuff that I don't have which is why I want a router that can use it all. :dance3:

I was at Federated Tool this morning and they have both the M12 and the M12V2. The M12 was 299.00 + taxes. The spouse was with me and I got the "look" :nono: when the salesman told me the price so I think a tad more "softening" is required.:cray:

I'll wait till Tuesday and see what I find out from the other dealer. But Mike I may need to take a ride on that railroad yet.h34r:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

That's what I do when I want something I will show the boss the high price one and with some luck I will get the one that's a little be lower in price..
Good luck on Tues.

That's great about the plate ,that's has the big hole in the plate but you will still need to rework it if you want to use the guides without removing the plate every time and then reline it back up aging and over and over every time you want to choke the hole down or use the guides.

But the way take a pattern of the plates with you, have them on some paper to match up the holes on the new router other wise you are in for one more job in order to use the new router in the table.
Not all routers are the same,,,,same brand name diff.bolt pattern..some are off by a 1/8" or more and it's as good as a mile in trying to mount a router up..


Good luck..






CanuckGal said:


> Rusty you are right about the bit length. I found a plunge bit but it was WAY too short for the dog holes.  Looks like this idea has been bad from the get go.
> 
> Mike and Ken I could easily modify the base as I am much better working with metal then with wood.:moil:. But I think I am going to leave that little router intact and just buy the bigger one I was wanting anyway.
> 
> ...


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