# 1/4 Inch to 1/2" bit shank adapters



## rich911 (Aug 25, 2010)

Hi

I know its not a good solution - but my routers only accept 1/4 Inch shanks - via a 1/4 inch collets that does not seem to be replaceable.

Is there any shank adapters made to do this??


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rich

Well yes and no , but you can make your own easy with the item below if you have a lathe or have a mate do it for you..I made one just for that type of job and it works very well..

Just turn it down to a TRUE (> .2501---1/4" size.

#9465 For 1/2" shank bits 1-3/16" $42.90 $29.95 

*MLCS Router Collet Extension and Review*

I will note the last time I suggested to do this I got a lot flack from the members but it works well...  :sold: and I don't think I would use it for the big panel bits...

Also when you use the new one be sure it's all the way the 1/4" collet ,right down to the bottom this will help with run out and less chance of snapping off the 1/4" shank.. but I'm sure you know what it takes to snap off a 1/4" shank with no play in it...  ( about 85,000 lbs. psi )

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rich911 said:


> Hi
> 
> I know its not a good solution - but my routers only accept 1/4 Inch shanks - via a 1/4 inch collets that does not seem to be replaceable.
> 
> Is there any shank adapters made to do this??


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

rich911 said:


> I know its not a good solution...



Rich,

Trust your gut. There is a reason they aren't on the market. There are a bunch of decent routers out there around $100, and even more used ones for sale for less.

Save your pennies, and use a tool designed for the job.

Just my $0.02,


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## rich911 (Aug 25, 2010)

Thanks,

Sounds like a good suggestion.

I have a lathe - and could do the turning if the the shank is not harden steel.

Do you know if you have to use a lathe grinder to do the turning down - or if a std tool steel cutter bit will do the turning down okay - on the 1/2 inch extension shank.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

It's hard but a stantard carb.cutting bit will do the job just fine.. 
You will need to sacrifice one of your old 1/2 "shank bits, to lock it in the lathe for a true turning, using the extension as a holding device
..
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rich911 said:


> Thanks,
> 
> Sounds like a good suggestion.
> 
> ...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

If you're seriously contemplating doing this I recommend wearing a hard steel jock strap and titanium armor. Should that extender fail by brittle fracture at the 1/4" to 1/2" transition while spinning like a bat out of Hades, those cutters will do what they do well.

Have you noticed that they are not offered commercially? Ask yourself why that may be.

I'm not saying it won't or can't work. If the extender is well balanced, the bit is well balanced, whatever runout they do have are aligned to cancel and you don't press it too hard and...

But if... 

Is it worth it to you?

This is just one guy's opinion.. a guy who really likes having all his parts right where they are...


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## WDG (Aug 16, 2015)

*A little bit old*

I know this was first posted in 2010 but I just ordered the extension. However, I do not intend to turn it down but rather machine a 1/2"-20 nut to fit on the end with a machined press fit collar to accept the extension and using a TIG to slightly tack it on three spots but not enough to take out any of the hardening. 

Once I have my mind set, I usually don't change it but I am open to anyone who sees this as the wrong thing to do. At my age I would like to keep what body parts I have left. I intend to put it on my radial arm saw, hence the need for the 1/2" - 20 nut.

I would like to think that in the last few years, someone might have some more experience with better in site.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Warren; why? A Bosch 1617EVSPK will set you back a couple hundred bucks... you get both a plunge and s fixed base included. It's time tested and backed by excellent customer service and quality. What's your continuing good health worth?

As Jim says why are you reinventing the wheel?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Warren, the bearings on your saw are not designed to take the type of side pressure this would develop. Router bits are designed to run at 20K rpm not the 3K rpm of a saw. I would not do this. If you want to do horizontal routing spend the money for an MLCS horizontal table and use a router with it.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Montgomery Ward and I think Sears had radial arm saws that had a faster spinning arbor at the back end for routing. It never caught on because of all the limitations I would imagine. Save your money on something that is very "iffy" at best and use it towards something that is time tested and proven.


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## WDG (Aug 16, 2015)

From the replies, I can see I need to do some more thinking about this and future projects. A couple of hundred bucks to me on SSI is quite a bit, but my health is worth a lot more especially after three bouts with cancer. My saw is an old one and to my thinking it was built a little stronger than some of the newer ones. It IS limited by the RPM of the motor. I always thought the idea of my saw having a router adaption on the end was good and have used it several times without any problems but it is limited to a 1/4" shank.

I have several 1/4" shank bits, obviously, but only the two 1/2" so I would then need to purchase 1/2" bits to get much use from a new router. Maybe I need to have a yard sale and get rid of some duplicate drills and saws to come up with enough money to purchase a new router.
I have done some research and I believe that DeWalt makes an adapter that fits on a saw where the blade fits. I don't remember what this costs or if it's worth the trouble. Maybe it would be smarter to get a complete router so that I would have to keep going back an forth on my saw.
Continued comments are certainly welcome and I will let everyone know what I decide to do. Maybe I will win the lottery and I can buy several routers all with bits in them so I won't have to change them out. :-}. Not holding my breath.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Warren I appreciate your situation but if you spend the money on the adapter and it doesn`t work work out that well, which is a fairly high probability in this case, then you have wasted that money. As I said, there are good reasons why that system didn`t catch on and become more popular. You can get a reconditioned Bosch router from CPO which many say is at least as good as a brand new, maybe better as they are well tested before they leave the building. I really recommend a 1617 combo kit, plunge and fixed, if you plan to stick with routing for a while. It is a little more money now but it could save you money down the road.

And good luck with keeping the cancer away.


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## WDG (Aug 16, 2015)

SSI doesn't allow for much toys so I have to do the best I can and sometimes the cheapest that I can. I may take some time and look at the type of bearings on the saw and maybe I can change them to something more durable. Or wait until Christmas and have my wife get me a router table and router with a 1/2" collet.


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