# MDF raised pannel wainscoting



## MaintenanceWork (Feb 12, 2009)

1. I am very interested in istalling raised panel wainscoting in my home so i was just wondering if someone can help me with doing it correctly. 
2. I am also interested in buying a new router and table but really dont want to spend to much money do to the fact that im a beginner with working a router. 
3. I was looking at the sears router and table for $130 dollars would this be good for this project.
4. What kind of bit would be best for mdf and what brand would be best.

P.S. sorry to bother anyone but just really like to get things done right the first time .
thank in advance


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## MaintenanceWork (Feb 12, 2009)

MaintenanceWork said:


> 1. I am very interested in istalling raised panel wainscoting in my home so i was just wondering if someone can help me with doing it correctly.
> 2. I am also interested in buying a new router and table but really dont want to spend to much money do to the fact that im a beginner with working a router.
> 3. I was looking at the sears router and table for $130 dollars would this be good for this project.
> 4. What kind of bit would be best for mdf and what brand would be best.
> ...


Sorry cant spell lol


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## Gerard_sr (Dec 7, 2008)

*Hi Antonio!*



MaintenanceWork said:


> Sorry cant spell lol


Hi Antonio!

Who the heck can spell?
Me, well I'm very happy that FireFox has a built in spell checker! LOL

Back to your question...
*IMHO*, (In My Humble Opinion) that's a pretty good idea, but it would be a rather heavy panel. If you use MDF then obviously you're going to paint it. If you're going to paint it why use MDF? Why not, just a suggestion, use plaster board with a stepped area around it. Then fill that area with a few layers of Spackling paste using your trowel at an angle.

Just a thought.

But if you are still thinking of MDF or maybe using the glued up wood panels that Home Depot sells, (not on their web page), you might be interested in a horizontal router table. It would allow you to have your workpiece flat on a table and not on edge to get the raised panel effect you're looking for. Check out this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ww7SnmoIONM They are for sale here: MLCS Woodworking

You'd have to buy a router and a table, but again, *IMHO*, it might be better for a novice to use.

It isn't an inexpensive thing to do though.

Cordially,
Gerry


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI MaintenanceWork

You may want to check out the link below,be-sure to check out the video on the same web page 

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/wainscoting_sets.html

I also recommend using 1/4" thick MDF or bead board over the drywall ,this will give you something to nail it to..



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MaintenanceWork said:


> 1. I am very interested in istalling raised panel wainscoting in my home so i was just wondering if someone can help me with doing it correctly.
> 2. I am also interested in buying a new router and table but really dont want to spend to much money do to the fact that im a beginner with working a router.
> 3. I was looking at the sears router and table for $130 dollars would this be good for this project.
> 4. What kind of bit would be best for mdf and what brand would be best.
> ...


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Hello Antonio and welcome to the RouterForums. Glad to have you with us.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

I don't know about youU/S guys, but, the Oxford english Dictionary says, MAINTENANCE, is the process of maintaining or being maintained.
Derek.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Derek were not sure about us either for that matter. 

Greetings and welcome to the forum Antonio. Good to have you aboard. In my opinion, while one does not wish to go expensive there is a risk in going cheap. from what I have heard the router is good, it is the table that would concern me. I have not seen the newer tables, but the older ones, I would go a different way. It may be that you might find a table on Craig's list that would be fair, you might conceder building your own. you could get an insert at HF (Harbor Freight) for around 40.00 and most the rest you could build. Just a thought.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Hi Antonio and, welcome.

Although, you really don't need a router table to raise the panels, it makes the job easier. Your best bet would be to make your own table and buy a set of raised panel bits for 1/2" stock. I have a set from CMT and, I'm sure many other manufacturers offer the smaller sets, too. MDF dulls bits quickly, though. It may be false economy. (Seems to be a lot of that going around) 
Have you considered using an inexpensive dado set, instead?


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

You can achieve the look of raised panels very easily with a router bit like this (it was designed specifically for this application using MDF):

Freud 99-470


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

That's a very innovative bit, I must say!
derek.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Great looking bit by Freud, Charles.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Charles

I don't get it ,,is this the same thing, it's not as short (as the Freud bit) but I think most would use 3/4" thick stock for the frame..or am I all wet ..
the rabbit could be 1/8" thick to take on the panel... MLCS part #6360 and OG BIT #8661

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_edgeband_ogee.html

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_hi?url=search-alias=tools&field-keywords=Freud+99-470&x=17&y=23

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Charles M said:


> You can achieve the look of raised panels very easily with a router bit like this (it was designed specifically for this application using MDF):
> 
> Freud 99-470


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

xplorx4 said:


> Derek were not sure about us either for that matter.
> 
> Greetings and welcome to the forum Antonio. Good to have you aboard. In my opinion, while one does not wish to go expensive there is a risk in going cheap. from what I have heard the router is good, it is the table that would concern me. I have not seen the newer tables, but the older ones, I would go a different way. It may be that you might find a table on Craig's list that would be fair, you might conceder building your own. you could get an insert at HF (Harbor Freight) for around 40.00 and most the rest you could build. Just a thought.


im not sure where jerry got his price on the harbor freight insert.
just thought you might like to know you can get the harbor freight plate for 19.99, not 40 dollars

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=router+plate&Submit=Go


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

bump,

im still trying to understand posts from this thread about the bits


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi levon

I'm not sure if this will help or not, but it's all done with one bit more or less, go out to the shop and chuck up a OG bit,almost all router bit sets have one or two of them in the set., make a style and a rail..
, make a pass across the end grain on the rail...then fit the two parts together they should fit like a pair of cloves...it's just a cheap way to make a panel frame so to speak.
If you want to put a panel in the frame rabbit the bottom edge so the panel will just fit under the frame parts, but nice and clean.. 

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levon said:


> bump,
> 
> im still trying to understand posts from this thread about the bits


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

thanks bobj, i want to get the router humming very soon. i just wanted to wait til the weather cleared so i can sling sawdust toward the front door of the shop, lol


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## Lee Brubaker (Jan 30, 2006)

There is an aspect about MDF that I don't think anyone has mentioned. That stuff is extremely dusty & unless there is a very good dust extractor at the work site....darn dangerous to the lungs & the damage is permenant.

Lee


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> HI Charles
> 
> I don't get it ,,is this the same thing, it's not as short (as the Freud bit) but I think most would use 3/4" thick stock for the frame..or am I all wet ..
> the rabbit could be 1/8" thick to take on the panel... MLCS part #6360 and OG BIT #8661
> ...


Bob,

Not all ogee bits cut both the profile and their own copes accurately. The bit I posted was designed specifically for a Canadian manufacturer of 1/2" MDF moldings that simulate raised panel wainscot to be used on site for installations. They asked for a bit to cut copes to match their factory edges and it happened that we could make the bit also cut the profiles. In my opinion, 3/4" is too thick for this application because it creates too much reveal (sticks out to far).


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Charles

I see what you are saying BUT if the top rail ( molding) sits on top and it's 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" wide the norm I don't see why if it stuck out by 1/4" more it would be a big deal by using 3/4" thick stock for the frame parts and the panels..just my 2 cents...

Ken ( a member) just did a wainscot job, I think he use 3/4" thick stock I will ask him to post some snapshots ,but I think I will go into the shop today and make up a test set up just to get a good look at it 


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Charles M said:


> Bob,
> 
> Not all ogee bits cut both the profile and their own copes accurately. The bit I posted was designed specifically for a Canadian manufacturer of 1/2" MDF moldings that simulate raised panel wainscot to be used on site for installations. They asked for a bit to cut copes to match their factory edges and it happened that we could make the bit also cut the profiles. In my opinion, 3/4" is too thick for this application because it creates too much reveal (sticks out to far).


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

3/4" is fine, in my view, if you are using panels such that the actual frame components have a reveal of ~1/2" beyond the panels. If you look at the pic I posted you will see an example of making a 1/4" rabbet in 3/4" stock so that a panel fits in behind the frame.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Charles

I did go out to the shop and played with it for just a little bit , it takes a TALL OG bit like the MLCS #8663 to cut 1 1/4 " stock and all I have on hand is a standard OG bit...made for 3/4" thick stock ,but I can see what you are talking about the rabbet  after playing with for a bit I think I will stick with the standrad R & S bits to do that type of job...looks just as good and less fuss.. 

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Charles M said:


> 3/4" is fine, in my view, if you are using panels such that the actual frame components have a reveal of ~1/2" beyond the panels. If you look at the pic I posted you will see an example of making a 1/4" rabbet in 3/4" stock so that a panel fits in behind the frame.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

You still have to pad the back of the S&R (frame) to make up the difference right?
What prevents the frame from tilting/wracking out when you attach it to the wall or backer board?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ghidrah

I'm not sure if you are talking to me or not but no ,all the parts are the same height...no padding needed... it can all be made out of 3/4" or 1/2" thick stock...


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Ghidrah said:


> You still have to pad the back of the S&R (frame) to make up the difference right?
> What prevents the frame from tilting/wracking out when you attach it to the wall or backer board?


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## Zeb (Feb 14, 2009)

I have made MDF raised panel wainscoting before for my basement. I used the Freud raise panel set of 3 bits. I had the bits sharpened before starting the job and found it helped quite a bit. My table mounted router was a Skill 2 1/4 hp and it was more than sufficient for the job.

I used 3/4 in MDF for the stiles and rails and 5/8 in MDF for the panels so the panels would not stand proud of the stiles and rails. All cuts were done in one pass.

All stiles and rails were the same width, only the panel were made to fit the various wall sizes.

Unfortunately, since I sold the house I don't have any pictures to show.

Believe me, the finish product was spectacular.

P.S. I plan on doing the same in my current house in the future. 

I also primed all the pieces before assembly to the wall; even the back is primed so as to get no buckling over time. It may be an over kill but I did it anyway.

I'm sure you will enjoy your project for years to come notwithstanding all the browny point you get from the wife.

Good luck,

Zeb


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

I still like the horizontal table. I use it to make panels all the time. I have been very happy with the results.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi vikingcraftsman

I will 2nd. that 

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vikingcraftsman said:


> I still like the horizontal table. I use it to make panels all the time. I have been very happy with the results.


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## Zeb (Feb 14, 2009)

Wow...
I looked at your gallery and I found your table very impressive bobj3 !

Mine is a very humble homemade wing replacement of the Delta table saw. It does the job for the time. The homemade guide attaches to my table saw rip fence. (No micro adjustments in my case, just an old fashion eye-meeter, test runs and triple checking on an ongoing basis to ensure nothing moved...)

I plan on changing my router table in the future and I am looking at a cast iron wing replacement from Peachtree. In my case, I need space saving options because the workshop is not very big. 

http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerTables.htm

An a note for Antonio, if you are going to make panels you need a good solid table mounted router for your own safety and to get consistent results from all your cuts. I found that working with MDF is less expensive but a hell of a lot more work. I always cut all my pieces, prime them and then sand to a smooth finish using steel wool.


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## Michealjohn (Feb 25, 2009)

I have not seen the newer tables, but the older ones, I would go a different way. It may be that you might find a table on Craig's list that would be fair, you might conceder building your own. you could get an insert at HF (Harbor Freight) for around 40.00 and most the rest you could build.


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## MaintenanceWork (Feb 12, 2009)

*i have been looking at routers*

I have thought twice about buying the sears table and router. I am now thinking of buying the Bosch 1619evs 3.25 horse power router and making my own table and purchasing a fence. I will just install the table to a base cabinet. My main concern is purchasing the correct bit for mdf panels. Because i dont want to purchase a bit to just burn them out. Should I purchase poplar wood instead. Or is there a better way to do this with out spending to much money. I really like the ogee with the bead for the raised panels.


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