# Dust collection piping



## Eugd (Jan 29, 2015)

I really want to add ductwork to my shop fox and nix the rockler quick connection hose and fitting I been using for the last few months, I live in New York and neither lowe's or home depot has any any Pvc pipe that is not scheduled 40, I can't find any of the green pipe sewer pipe or tv thinner Pvc pipe, the only other pipe I see is this one which they use on water drains in the garden, it's they have 2 version one that is perforated with holes and this one, has anyone used this type of pipe? A worker at home depot told me that they changed the code in NY long Island and they primarily use schedule 40 only and that could be who I can't find any?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

so use snaplock (metal) instead...

http://www.ductoutlet.com/category_s/61.htm


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> so use snaplock (metal) instead...
> 
> Snap Lock Pipe


I also used galvanized snap lock duct. Cheaper than plastic most likely and easy to come by. It also makes the pipe easy to ground. It doesn't hurt to wrap the connections with that foil tape sold for ducting. (Duct tape is not actually used for ducting BTW.) You can use the galvanized elbows or get them in plastic and connectors for the machines, etc., from Lee Valley and others.


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## Oakwerks (May 9, 2013)

I used stove pipe I bought at Lowes ..... Blast gates and other dust collection fittings all 
mate up with no "adapting" required.... However, all joints need to be wrapped with foil tape....


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Nicely done, Kurt!
(But you didn't have to clean up the shop just for us...  )


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## Eugd (Jan 29, 2015)

I thought the metal sold duct work was not strong enough, in home depot and lows, now I know I'll get it ASAP, thanks


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

the 30GA they sell is pretty wimpy...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Oakwerks said:


> I used stove pipe I bought at Lowes ..... Blast gates and other dust collection fittings all
> mate up with no "adapting" required.... However, all joints need to be wrapped with foil tape....


Kurt just in you case you ask, I refuse to post a picture of my shop right now so that you can compare yours to mine. I hope you know you're making most of the rest of us look bad by posting that, especially Dan. I've seen a picture of Dan's so I know that.:smile:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Kurt just in you case you ask, I refuse to post a picture of my shop right now so that you can compare yours to mine. I hope you know you're making most of the rest of us look bad by posting that, especially Dan. I've seen a picture of Dan's so I know that.:smile:


irritating...
isn't it...


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## Oakwerks (May 9, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> irritating...
> isn't it...


Alright, alright ..!! I'll dump some sawdust and scraps on the floor the next time......


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Oakwerks said:


> Alright, alright ..!! I'll dump some sawdust and scraps on the floor the next time......


Don't listen to them, Kurt, their just jealous!:lol::lol::lol:


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

I absolutely clean my shop whenever I can't find a flat spot to work


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> Don't listen to them, Kurt, their just jealous!:lol::lol::lol:


don't confuse jealous w/ lazy...


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

When I first piped in the DC I used flexible plastic pipe and ran copper wire through it for grounding. All in all it works very well but I've often questioned "how much more efficient/effective" would it be if I swapped it for the metal snap lock.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

JFPNCM said:


> When I first piped in the DC I used flexible plastic pipe and ran copper wire through it for grounding. All in all it works very well but I've often questioned "how much more efficient/effective" would it be if I swapped it for the metal snap lock.


cheaper, less fittings, simpler, reusable, easier remodeling and less waste...


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Thanks, all good points. 

The key question is would there be a sufficient increase in the overall efficiency of the system to warrant replacing the existing system with the piping? The current system seems to work well but I'm open to changing it if the improvement in DC merits the change.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

what size is the inlet on your DC...
what size is your current piping...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Unless there is a change in the specs there shouldn`t be much difference. The galvanizing might be more slippery than plastic but I don`t know how much difference that would make. I wouldn`t bother changing what you have if you were planning on replacing it with basically the same thing.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

if there is a notable duct size change...
Duct Velocity

.


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## Eugd (Jan 29, 2015)

I have a 6 inch split into two 3 inch on the shop fox,


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## jemangin (Oct 23, 2013)

I used 6" PVC for my dust collection. The thinner walled and lighter than schedule 40 pipe is called sewer drain line(white or green) ASTM D2729 and is available from plumbing outfitters. Home depot carries some 4" sewer line. The schedule 40 is heavy, more expensive and overkill for dust collection. Clearvue cyclone sells 6" gates and other fittings for this size. I liked using it. Held together with sheet metal screws at the fittings and silicone. You can take it apart and reconfigure easily as your shop changes and adds tools. And no metal cuts or snips needed.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Eugd said:


> I have a 6 inch split into two 3 inch on the shop fox,


w/ a ''Y junction'' I trust...
what's the CFM rating for your DC...
can you upgrade the the 3's to 4''???

typical metal fittings...

.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

According to my calculations 2 -3 inch pipes only equals one half (14 square inches for the pair of 3 inchers compared to 28 square inches for the 6 inch) of the cross sectional area of the 6 inch inlet. I would also try to go up to 4 inch if you can.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Alright; who let Jamie post pics?! These guys have staff for cleaning or sumpthin?!! 
This is getting downright embarrassing... 
(I just changed the password on my workshop door...NO ONE is getting a look inside)


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Alright; who let Jamie post pics?! These guys have staff for cleaning or sumpthin?!!
> This is getting downright embarrassing...
> (I just changed the password on my workshop door...NO ONE is getting a look inside)


all shop no output...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Not True*



Stick486 said:


> all shop no output...


Can't keep up with the maintenance around here...no time for fun stuff in the shop.
Last thing I did (last week) was replace the top cap on our front deck railing. ^%&^$#@ waterbourne solid stain failed and the previous cap rotted. Didn't even know there was an issue until the rot surfaced at a joint.

From 2x6 RS WRC. I coat of Copper Naphanate and 1 coat of Sharkskin (so far).
It showers every day, or threatens to, and I can't get the rest of the railing prepped and painted.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Actually, while I have you here, I'm finally making a DP table...is there a sweet spot so to speak for the front to rear 'width', the longer dimension, side to side (length) being 28".
The panel is 21" front to back, at the moment. Seems kind of big(?).
I'm thinking of the support needed to drill for euro hinges on cab. doors.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Oops! My bad!! Stick made me hijack the thread... *embarrassment*

Back to DC piping.


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## Oakwerks (May 9, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> all shop no output...


Stick, don't include me in your observation ...!! :nono:


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## Eugd (Jan 29, 2015)

I found a plumbing large supply store in the next town when I called they have green sewer pipe, one question is right off the DC should I go 6" and nix the splitter that came stock, also I planning to put a barrel separator for chips, that is 4 inch terminal,


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Kurt; where the heck do you store everything?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> From 2x6 RS WRC. I coat of Copper Naphanate and 1 coat of Sharkskin (so far).
> It showers every day, or threatens to, and I can't get the rest of the railing prepped and painted.


so far..
nice clean work...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Actually, while I have you here, I'm finally making a DP table...is there a sweet spot so to speak for the front to rear 'width', the longer dimension, side to side (length) being 28".
> The panel is 21" front to back, at the moment. Seems kind of big(?).
> I'm thinking of the support needed to drill for euro hinges on cab. doors.


wrecked angle 1/3rd rule...
make the table slideable to the left and right and you get more usability come large doors...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Oops! My bad!! Stick made me hijack the thread... *embarrassment*
> 
> Back to DC piping.


I did not...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Oakwerks said:


> Stick, don't include me in your observation ...!! :nono:


okay...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Eugd said:


> I found a plumbing large supply store in the next town when I called they have green sewer pipe, one question is right off the DC should I go 6" and nix the splitter that came stock, also I planning to put a barrel separator for chips, that is 4 inch terminal,


price the snap-lock and fittings before you go go w/ 6'' plastic...


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