# Router bit sticking in collet



## listert (Jul 2, 2011)

Hi
I have a new Makita 3612. When I need to change bits its very hard to remove the current bit. I've had to resort to a pliers to yank it out which can't be right. Any ideas?
Am I tightening it up too much? I've not tried letting it cool as usually I want to get on to the next cut.
thx


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## mpbc48 (Sep 17, 2010)

Have you tried removing the collet completely? 

Many collets have not released the bit with the first loosening. Keep turning to see if there is a "secondary loosening". There is a term for this type of collet, but it escapes me at the moment.

Mike


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

First, I note you have 2 posts so therefore please allow me to welcome you to the Router Forums. Among other things, it is always good to have another Makita router user! 

May I ask how you otained a new 3612? This model has been replaced by a new model, and at least in the U.S. the 3612C has been off the market for something over a year.

Are these stuck bits 1/2 in (12.7 mm) shank or 1/4 in (6.35 mm)? (Are the bits stuck in the collet itself or do they get stuck in the collar, which itself is stuck?


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## listert (Jul 2, 2011)

Sometimes I've taken the securing nut right off and the collet is still firmly wedged in.


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## listert (Jul 2, 2011)

1/2 mostly, i use a smaller router for 1/4 (without any problems)


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## ggroofer (Apr 29, 2011)

*bits sticking*



listert said:


> Hi
> I have a new Makita 3612. When I need to change bits its very hard to remove the current bit. I've had to resort to a pliers to yank it out which can't be right. Any ideas?
> Am I tightening it up too much? I've not tried letting it cool as usually I want to get on to the next cut.
> thx


Hi, I've had the same problem with 'Trend-pro craft' bits sticking in the colet of my triton 1400w,i would do as Mike suggested however if that doesn't work I would be careful pulling the bit out with pliers as I chipped the cutting edge of A new bit receantly doing the same thing...what I do now if A bit sticks is place the bit between two bits of scrap wood in my bench vice and tighten the vice just until the bit bites into the wood then twist the router nice and gentle from left yo right while also pulling the router up! that works well for me!. I would also make sure your colet and bits are well maintained although this shouldn't be the issue if the router's new... are your bits new? Philip.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I'm not sure, because I haven't got a 3612, but most new 1/2" collet routers I'm aware of have "self-releasing" collets. If this is the case, the collet and collet nut are coupled some way. They should not be easily seperable. If it is the self-releasing type, you could have a defective collet, collet nut or both.


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## listert (Jul 2, 2011)

mftha said:


> First, I note you have 2 posts so therefore please allow me to welcome you to the Router Forums. Among other things, it is always good to have another Makita router user!
> 
> May I ask how you otained a new 3612? This model has been replaced by a new model, and at least in the U.S. the 3612C has been off the market for something over a year.
> 
> Are these stuck bits 1/2 in (12.7 mm) shank or 1/4 in (6.35 mm)? (Are the bits stuck in the collet itself or do they get stuck in the collar, which itself is stuck?


The model is 3612X
I can unscrew the collet nut and the collet and bit will be stuck. A quick twist with pliers will free it but , as some else posted, I've already chipped a cutting edge on one bit - 1/2 inch mostly by the way.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

listert said:


> I have a new Makita 3612. When I need to change bits its very hard to remove the current bit. I've had to resort to a pliers to yank it out which can't be right.


How old are your cutters and what state are the shanks in? Try it with a brand new cutter and if it's still hanging up get the supplier to replace the collet and nut. It sounds as though the collet and/or nut are possibly damaged OR that your cutter shanks are burred in some way. Hanging doesn't happen with a good collet and a clean cutter shank

Regards

Phil


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Sometimes a little tap on the side will loosen it up & you can pull the bit right out. Just don't tap too hard, you wouldn't want to tweak things.


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## Cookie Monster (Jun 30, 2011)

I agree with tapping the nut, have used this sucessfully in the past. A long flat punch helps with the tapping.


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## Joham (Jul 3, 2011)

Rapping the flat of the nut has worked for me also. The collet works like a tool bit in a Morse taper and a tap will generally loosen it.


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## listert (Jul 2, 2011)

*solved*

from Makita support
Answer:

Has the collet cone become detached from the nut as it should be clicked into the nut and not put into the end of the shaft. This would cause this problem.

The collet and the nut weren't attached. Now when I loosen the nut it loosens the collet

Doh


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## jerrag (Sep 23, 2008)

Perhaps I am off base, however I have had bits stick if I happen to bottom out the bit when first inserting it. Now I always put the bit in till it hits bottom then pull it out about a 16th of an inch, this has stopped my problems of having sticky bits.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Put a Rubber Grommet in the arbor hole under the router bit , it will always stop the router bit, no guessing and you can bottom out the bit with no fear..plus it a great tip for matched router bits like the R and P sets.


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jerrag said:


> Perhaps I am off base, however I have had bits stick if I happen to bottom out the bit when first inserting it. Now I always put the bit in till it hits bottom then pull it out about a 16th of an inch, this has stopped my problems of having sticky bits.


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## Dal300 (Jul 14, 2011)

Like Bob, I use an O-ring to stop the bit from bottoming all the way. O-rings are cheap!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I did at one time also and than I started to use the rubber G.and now I press fit them into the collet that works better ..now no heat from the router motor to the bit.

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/sommerfelds/catalog/page03.pdf

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Dal300 said:


> Like Bob, I use an O-ring to stop the bit from bottoming all the way. O-rings are cheap!


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