# swirl marks



## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Hello,

I just purchased an out-of-box brand new Freud 12" 80 tooth ATB crosscut blade for my miter saw...
D1280X thin kerf (TK)

I'm getting swirl blade marks on the end grain of each cutoff piece. Looks like the grooves in a vinyl record 
(you know, the kind you could play backwards to get secret messages from The Beatles with) 

The setup is as square and true as I can get it. Is this normal ? The packaging claims flawless finish, but am I missing something like a wobbly tooth or runout beacause it's thin kerf? The blade cost about $56 at the local HD, will probably exchange it today for another just for comparison to be sure. Wondering if anyone else has had this same experience with this or is this to be expected everywhere? Love the blade, super sharp, super smooth, cut right through the 1x stock like nothing, and the cut was as square can be - I stared with a good clean piece that had been jointed and planed on all sides/edges. Curious. Thanks so much.


----------



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Steve,

I think you may have better results with a regular kerf on a miter saw. The thin kerf is a great concept for a table saw, but I have never had much luck with one on a miter saw IMHO.


----------



## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Thanks Bob, I have been hearing that same thought about TK with miters.
I still have a lot to learn.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Steve

Take it back and get one that's still in the box 

"out-of-box ,brand new" someone may have dropped it on the floor and bent just one tooth on it..= "swirl blade marks"

=========



pemdas86 said:


> Hello,
> 
> I just purchased an out-of-box brand new Freud 12" 80 tooth ATB crosscut blade for my miter saw...
> D1280X thin kerf (TK)
> ...


----------



## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Sorry Bob, yes., but by "out-of-box" I meant, I purchased it new and took it out of the factory packaging myself. Assuming that I would have been the first post-production consumer to lay my hands on the actual blade once it was unwrapped from the plastic case it was in on the shelf at the store. But then, you've may have a clue there, the case is easy enought to open and close (good for storage) and that someone else may have returned this very blade after a mishap or with the same problem. Hard to tell. On my way back to the store now. Thanks!


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Steve...

have you thought to check for runout on blade/saw?


----------



## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Yes, Bill, doing that right now. I'm trying to determine if any of the teeht are out of square and if the adjustments are all set on the machine itself. Unfortunately everything appears to look good. So I must not have found the spot in question yet. I did just cut another piece after a few minor adjustments and the swirl marks are still there. One thing I just noticed, ( and it probably is the rosetta stone to the mystery) is that the intial cut into the 1x stock appears pretty smooth with minimal evidence of swirl, but then as you can see where the blade passes deeper into the cut, about half way, the swirl markes become more prominent and very noticable. Runout is what I would think. And I'm probably thinking it's the limitations of my machine holding the blade true, not the blade. I probably will try the full kerf just to see. Thanks again.


----------



## redheartwolf (May 31, 2009)

Any update today yet on the blade? I suppose we could wait a week or so though lol.


----------



## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

I'm not against thin kerf blades at all, in fact, I have several for my TS. I don't like them for a miter saw however. As with Bob, (senior mod), I too haven't had much luck with them in a miter saw. Again, for a TS, they're great. I even have a TK for one of my worm drive circ. saws. The concept is great but, the blade wobbles until it's fully up to speed, then you get nice clean straight cuts.


----------



## pemdas86 (Nov 21, 2008)

Sorry to be so slow to reply, I got caught up in a hundred errands and family runaround. Here's what I got >
Different blade, same results. What I can contribute to the cause is that the two "washers' that lock the blade on to the arbor have a micro bit of runout to them. So I can feel the blade wobble by moving it myself (with the power unplugged of course). I tried today to fill the voide with a small layer of scotch tape but to no avail. It did improve it though, but very slightly. For what I need the blade for it will be fine, and besides, I purchased ith with no out of pocket expense becasue it was on leftover giftcards from Christimas! So other than that, I will be looking for a better high end miter saw before I worry about the blade selection right now. I could not find a "free" full kerf blade at HD, if you know what I'm saying  . Thanks for all the advice.


----------



## pinkwedd (Jun 17, 2009)

Send it back!


----------

