# What kind of wood rasp are you using?



## volunteers (Mar 4, 2011)

I bought my first set of wood rasp last week from Home Depot, it is made by Cooper Tools. Basically I want to use the rasp to fine-tune the tenons and mortise. 

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41W2JYGKSFL.jpg

Unfortunately this rasp is not what I preferred after I tried it:
1. There are no teeth at the edge(border) of the rasp
2. it is too strong for my work.

Any rasp to recommend? 

BTW, does the rasp have a specific number, just like the sand paper, to make the smooth or coarse work? Thanks.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Will

Pickup a BIG file they use on horses hooves, you will be amazed how well they work on wood ..the one I use is 2 1/2" x 16" long one pass and the tenon is done.


http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-HR14N...ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1303142455&sr=1-2

http://www.amazon.com/Happy-Tack-Farrier-Tanged-Rasp/dp/B0011UDMBM/ref=pd_sbs_indust_2

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volunteers said:


> I bought my first set of wood rasp last week from Home Depot, it is made by Cooper Tools. Basically I want to use the rasp to fine-tune the tenons and mortise.
> 
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41W2JYGKSFL.jpg
> 
> ...


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## mimac (Dec 13, 2009)

Hi Will
You could look for the microplane type of rasps. I bought several from Lee Valley several years ago. They used to sell the flat one Which they still do, a flexible one, and round and square ones. It seems that the only one they have now is the flat one and is being sold as a food zester and grater. 

Stainless-Steel Rasp and Zester Holder - Lee Valley Tools

These things cut like the devil. If you decide to go for one of these get 2 as one will surely wind up in the kitchen, mine did.


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## volunteers (Mar 4, 2011)

Maybe the rasp is too rough for my work, I guess a file set work better?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

For finer work I take pieces of countertop laminate about 1 1/2" to 2" x 3" and glue various grits of sandpaper to the back side. Good with finer grits for sanding in tight spots or sanding chamfers where just about anything else wants to round the edges off.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Hey Will... for the kind of work your speaking off a good Middle of the road rasp would be the "Nicholson 49 and 50". One is for coarser work the other for fine. Neither is designed for finish work. If you look around, you'll find that the newer ones are made in Brazil and not nearly as good as the ones made in the USA. Do a lil homework and find the USA models and you won't look back. They work well both in soft and hard woods. One side flat the other half round. 

Nicholson Cabinet Rasps 49 50

bill


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

volunteers said:


> I bought my first set of wood rasp last week from Home Depot, it is made by Cooper Tools. Basically I want to use the rasp to fine-tune the tenons and mortise.
> 
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41W2JYGKSFL.jpg
> 
> ...


Hi Will:

Do you want cabinet grade mortise and tenon? If so, a shoulder plane is the only answer. Sorry, rasps don't cut it. Lifetime of experience with hacking away with a wide variety of wood rasps from microplanes to log pulverisers both big and small. Ideal for romping away softwoods when you need to "adjust" framing but definitely not for sophisticated anything, beyond hacking.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ron

I disagree on that one , why buy a 50.oo dollar tool to do a 10.oo dollar tool job that can do it easy and quick..,this is one joint you can't see, it just needs to fit right.
The rasps can get right into the corners, you don't need to be King Kong just a light pass and the job is done.
You can spend all day with the cheese cutters or sand paper but why when a rasp can do the job quick.. 

But the way if he wants high end cabinet grade mortise and tenon, then the router comes into play..

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allthunbs said:


> Hi Will:
> 
> Do you want cabinet grade mortise and tenon? If so, a shoulder plane is the only answer. Sorry, rasps don't cut it. Lifetime of experience with hacking away with a wide variety of wood rasps from microplanes to log pulverisers both big and small. Ideal for romping away softwoods when you need to "adjust" framing but definitely not for sophisticated anything, beyond hacking.


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## volunteers (Mar 4, 2011)

Thanks for all the replies.
The mortise and tenon I talked about are regular mortise and tenon, including my cabinet grade work. I made all of them by hand saw and chisels, since I prefer to do most jobs with hand tools. I do need a file or a rasp to fine-tune the edge/corner/connection part of the tenon and mortise. This is why I am looking for the suggestion of a decent file/rasp.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Will

Your welcome for my small part..
I can show you the water but I can't make you drink.. 
Just a old farts wood worker 2 cents worth..

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volunteers said:


> Thanks for all the replies.
> The mortise and tenon I talked about are regular mortise and tenon, including my cabinet grade work. I made all of them by hand saw and chisels, since I prefer to do most jobs with hand tools. I do need a file or a rasp to fine-tune the edge/corner/connection part of the tenon and mortise. This is why I am looking for the suggestion of a decent file/rasp.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

allthunbs said:


> Hi Will:
> 
> If so, a shoulder plane is the only answer. Sorry, rasps don't cut it.


Ron.. 

respectfully, not the only answer, but I will agree the best answer....


Will... a good shoulder plane is something to consider. Especially if you do alot of tenons. Veritas has a line of shoulder planes that are for the money an excellent choice. If its rasps you want, the Nicholsons are good value. 

Good luck with whichever road it is you take....


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Unfortunately this rasp is not what I preferred after I tried it:
1. There are no teeth at the edge(border) of the rasp
2. it is too strong for my work.

Any rasp to recommend? 

I agree with Ron, rasps are for removing great quantities of wood and rarely are suited for fine work as you are describing. I still suggest gluing sandpaper to laminate and using it as a file. I always have a couple at my workbench for touch-ups. With 40-60 grit paper they will remove the "fuzz" from a sawcut very quickly to get a good fit. 
It will cost you next to nothing to try them and you may be pleasantly surprised.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Ron..
> 
> respectfully, not the only answer, but I will agree the best answer....
> 
> ...


Bill:

Respectfully, your's and Charle's is the best answer. You provide options, I only provided opinion.


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## Liogier (Nov 14, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Rasps are for removing great quantities of wood and rarely are suited for fine work as you are describing. I still suggest gluing sandpaper to laminate and using it as a file


With due respect, I disagree on this affirmation. There are a whole variety of very fine grain rasps to do all kind of finishing works. But this kind of rasps cannot be produced by machines so you have to look for a hand-stitched rasp.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

The best rasps I have come across are Japanese Iwasaki rasps. They can take of lots and leave a really smooth surface. With less pressure the become a very accurate tool. I have half round and flat versions in 3 sizes and cuts.
Iwasaki Japanese Carver's & Cabinetmaker's Floats


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

For a rasp I use a Japanese one. I also have a rasp used for horse hooves as Bob mentioned & it works good also. The Shinto rasp works well. 

The Japan Woodworker Catalog - Shinto Saw Rasps


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## Liogier (Nov 14, 2011)

Mike Wingate said:


> The best rasps I have come across are Japanese Iwasaki rasps. They can take of lots and leave a really smooth surface. With less pressure the become a very accurate tool. I have half round and flat versions in 3 sizes and cuts.


Hi Mike, have you ever tried a good hand-stitched rasp ?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

No-one mentioned Surforms. Find Surform Tools and other Shaping Tools at Aubuchon Hardware

Cheers

Peter


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Guys, I know some of you who are also neanderthals will appreciate this. I haven't checked out Noel's rasps yet but have other hand-stitched rasps and he's right: good rasps come in a wide range of coarseness. Graded from 1-15 (I have a 7 and a 13), the 7 quickly hogs away wood while a 13 takes away fine sawdust. I've read that a 3 is about as coarse as is usually used in woodworking, often for hand-rasping a clawfoot table leg (all by hand) or other major wood removal function.


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

Metal working files are also really handy, I have a bunch of nicholson files that come in handy from time to time. I bought a nicholson 4 in 1 rasp that just doesn't seem to work very well at anything. I picked up one half round, half flat rasp at lee valley that works great, alas, I don't remember which one it is exactly.


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## volunteers (Mar 4, 2011)

I found this one is pretty good, 
http://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-220...TF8&coliid=I3U4Y9OM4R0EUU&colid=3KQ9F6ICGLF39

but what does that 'welder' mean on the title? is it regular metal working files or only used for welder?



bobbotron said:


> Metal working files are also really handy, I have a bunch of nicholson files that come in handy from time to time. I bought a nicholson 4 in 1 rasp that just doesn't seem to work very well at anything. I picked up one half round, half flat rasp at lee valley that works great, alas, I don't remember which one it is exactly.


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