# Carvewright 45 Degree edges



## dadsalmon (Sep 26, 2004)

Can anyone tell me if the Carvewright can be programmed to produce 45 degree angle edges in 1/2 inch material? Mitered corners for small boxes is the object. Can't get these accurate enough on my cheap table saw.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

You could always try doing it with a chamfering bit on the router table, and for a whole lot cheaper


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I assume you want all the carving possibilities of the Carvewright machine as well as the 45 miters. Otherwise there are otherways to do this much cheaper. A good table saw can be bought lot's cheaper  and if you have a decent router set up you can do as doug advises, Bob and Rick do it. If the Carvewright can do it, member Bob J will know it!

Corey


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi dadsalmon

I'm not sure why you would want to do this type of job with the Carvewright machine it's true that the machine will take on any router bit you have, well almost all of them but this type of job can be done on the router table or the table saw on the hand router .

The Carvewright machine can't be "programmed" in the true sense of the word it's done with the Designer software that comes with the machine...
and you would select the router bit that you want to do the job and the machine would ask you to put that bit when it's ready to do the 45 deg. cut..

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dadsalmon said:


> Can anyone tell me if the Carvewright can be programmed to produce 45 degree angle edges in 1/2 inch material? Mitered corners for small boxes is the object. Can't get these accurate enough on my cheap table saw.


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## Charles M (Apr 10, 2006)

I haven't used mine for miters yet but my understanding is that it will make them. You can even do 45° miters directly on the machine without any programming. Interestingly it uses a round nose bit (aka: core box bit) instead of a chamfer bit.


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## dadsalmon (Sep 26, 2004)

I was not satisfied with the results on the router table with a chamfer bit. Left edges too ragged. I had hoped that would produce superiour results from my cheap table saw. Have limited room in my shop, so I must forgo the luxury of a larger table saw. I have been interested in the cnc routing capabilities, and would certainly use such a machine for far more than mitred edges. Just wondered if anyone had done that yet.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

How did the edge look? If there is no means of holding the stock down, the stock can ride up on a chamfer bit and give an uneven edge. Try using your featherboard to press down on the stock, maybe that will give you a better edge.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi dadsalmon

I have not tried it and I would not and this is why 

The stock is on a sanding belt (drive belt) and the belt moves the stock under the router bit so to say it will NOT cut the 45deg. true , it will Not destroy the belt that moves the stock to get the true 45deg.cut ,it needs to go by the end/edge of the stock to do so.
It will leave about a 1/16" of stock that you would need to remove by hand with a real sharp knife.... and I'm sure you don't want to do that.. 


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## dadsalmon (Sep 26, 2004)

Bob I wonder if it was mounted on a 1/4" piece underneath and riding on it, if the same would be true. How much does programming really control the action of the cutter, or is it predicated strictly by the edges? How bout if it just referenced one edge? Hmmmm......


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi dadsalmon

That may work but I would not try it on my machine...
The program controls the cutter 100% you can select the bit and tell it how deep to run the bit...but the belts are not cheap and are not easy to reinstall on the machine all for a 45deg cut not me...



Tell you what goto the cravewright site and download the software it's free to try for about 60days... this will help you alot with your questions...

http://www.carvewright.com/






dadsalmon said:


> Bob I wonder if it was mounted on a 1/4" piece underneath and riding on it, if the same would be true. How much does programming really control the action of the cutter, or is it predicated strictly by the edges? How bout if it just referenced one edge? Hmmmm......


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

dadsalmon said:


> Can anyone tell me if the Carvewright can be programmed to produce 45 degree angle edges in 1/2 inch material? Mitered corners for small boxes is the object. Can't get these accurate enough on my cheap table saw.


I'm assuming that you want to make a Chamfer edge cut on 1/2" thick material.

Depth of cut is controlled by the darkness of the artwork being used.

Let's say the machine is set to make cuts High-to-Low using Light-to-Dark artwork. (you have the choice of light-to-dark or dark-to-light)
I use light to dark because I want to conserve printer ink!  

You can have a space as wide as you wish... say 1", 1.5" or even 3" defined and the machine will cut a slope from the highest point to the lowest point based ONLY on the darkness/lightness of the artwork; degrees of slope is immaterial... it's the degree of Gradation that controls it.

If you have a Black line, there is no gradation at all, the line will be as deep as the maximum depth setup for the cut.

If you have a 1" space that has a nice even gradation from inside to outside, White to Black in an even gradation, you will get an even slope cut from the highest point, Whitest, to the Lowest point, Blackest.

If you have a 1" space where the artwork is drawn, inside to outside, with simple 1/8" lines next to each other, starting with light shades of grey to Black, you will get stair stepped cuts from white-to-black.

Some programs can draw gradations... Adobe Photshop does it nicely.

If you want to end up with 1/2 thick material with a slope cut on it, cut into 3/4" material then resaw it off with a bandsaw to get your 1/2"

Oh... it will also take a long time for it to happen... that machine is NOT a speed demon... it cuts every pixel with a router bit!

Good luck!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Joe

Say what ? ?


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## dadsalmon (Sep 26, 2004)

Thanks guys! Joe you have given the most encouragement, but there is a problem. I usually mill my stock with a thickness planer down to the 1/2 inch thickness that I need. After thinking about this with the input from here, I think my next approach will be to use my compound mitre saw. The goal is to get a good fit where these pieces join without the gaps that I have now. So we'll see if this approach works any better.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Getting a rough edge on a router table could mean a couple things..
1. Dull bit..
2. You're taking too much off at once.. May need to take smaller amounts off till you get the final cut..


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

dadsalmon said:


> Thanks guys! Joe you have given the most encouragement, but there is a problem. I usually mill my stock with a thickness planer down to the 1/2 inch thickness that I need. After thinking about this with the input from here, I think my next approach will be to use my compound mitre saw. The goal is to get a good fit where these pieces join without the gaps that I have now. So we'll see if this approach works any better.



Yep, a good Miter Saw is the right tool... Maybe a sliding one for more flexiblility...

edit:
Besides, this machine is probably NOT the right tool for the job...
Some relevant quotes from thread:
http://www.routerforums.com/cnc-routing/4477-mike-senior-moderator.html
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unlimitedwoodworker:
bob what would you charge me? i'm still looking

bobj3:
From 125.oo to 200.oo it depends how many bits I use and run time and the size you want it to be and the wood type 

unlimitedwoodworker:
ohh wow! guess i'll have to scratch that, i dont have a job at the time, i thought you would charge alot less than that. I dont have that kind of funds , guess i will have to look elsewhere.
Jeff

bobj3:
Sorry, it's a 2,000.oo machine 
You may want to try the CarveWright FORUM

http://www.carvewright.com/forum/

You may find someone that will do it for alot less , can't hurt to ask Start with " pkunk " he is a nice guy and just may do it...
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