# Jig Fabrication



## Tony1012 (Mar 31, 2011)

I was searching the net for radiused bevel jigs and found that there are few that can really stand the quality/time/expense test. The Jig, as a work tool, must meet some criteria. First, is the task going to be repeated, ever? This first criteria establishes the quality and permanence of the Jig. Then you must factor in the actual geometry of the part to be fabricated. Does the Jig design need to exactly match the geometry or is close enough to sand later good enough? These two issues can be driven by the individual and his or her particular conditions. But when I see a woodworker on uTube doing a radiused bevel on the Table Saw, I see a woodworker who is skilled enough to make a reusable Jig, but questionable at the decision to opt for the Table Saw as the best tool to perform the radius. First of all, when machining any material to a radius, the last thing you want are segments, or facets, which is cheeseball term by the way. Linear or planar segments have to be removed with a sander or grinder or some other device, by hand, which completely eliminates the real geometry of the work. So, why go through that much trouble to build a really nice Radiused Bevel Jig only to have it not do a radius? What I found on the Internet will only steer would-be Radiused Bevellers in the wrong direction. I am happy to share a Radiused Bevel Jig that is meant for larger projects, 48" and up in radius, and is expandable to something in the range of 16 feet before you begin to lose space. Truly, if have a really large, flat surface area, you're only limitation would be the extention's lateral support, but it is not impossible. The Bevel is adjustable to 40 degrees from flat, and the width of the bevel can be up to 12" !!!!
The Jig is all Melamine, which I like for this type of Jig due it's ability to reject sawdust in the channel, uses acrylic as the router base and the router is, of course, cutting with a 3/4" fluted bit with a 1/2" collet. Happy to share.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tony

Why not just use a Vert.router bit on a Horz.router table, router bits are always dead on every time and can be repeated over and over.., with a simple jig to keep the stock in place all the way router the cir..  just a quick turn on the table and it's done..

=======



Tony1012 said:


> I was searching the net for radiused bevel jigs and found that there are few that can really stand the quality/time/expense test. The Jig, as a work tool, must meet some criteria. First, is the task going to be repeated, ever? This first criteria establishes the quality and permanence of the Jig. Then you must factor in the actual geometry of the part to be fabricated. Does the Jig design need to exactly match the geometry or is close enough to sand later good enough? These two issues can be driven by the individual and his or her particular conditions. But when I see a woodworker on uTube doing a radiused bevel on the Table Saw, I see a woodworker who is skilled enough to make a reusable Jig, but questionable at the decision to opt for the Table Saw as the best tool to perform the radius. First of all, when machining any material to a radius, the last thing you want are segments, or facets, which is cheeseball term by the way. Linear or planar segments have to be removed with a sander or grinder or some other device, by hand, which completely eliminates the real geometry of the work. So, why go through that much trouble to build a really nice Radiused Bevel Jig only to have it not do a radius? What I found on the Internet will only steer would-be Radiused Bevellers in the wrong direction. I am happy to share a Radiused Bevel Jig that is meant for larger projects, 48" and up in radius, and is expandable to something in the range of 16 feet before you begin to lose space. Truly, if have a really large, flat surface area, you're only limitation would be the extention's lateral support, but it is not impossible. The Bevel is adjustable to 40 degrees from flat, and the width of the bevel can be up to 12" !!!!
> The Jig is all Melamine, which I like for this type of Jig due it's ability to reject sawdust in the channel, uses acrylic as the router base and the router is, of course, cutting with a 3/4" fluted bit with a 1/2" collet. Happy to share.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

G’day Tony

Welcome to the router forum. 

Thank you for joining us


----------

