# making box joints with a trimmer?



## bigguy88 (Jun 27, 2012)

hi 

i'm new here. i just have access to a trimmer not a full router.
Is it possible to make box joints with it? 

The wood pieces i am working in are small, about 50 by 20 by 200mm .

Thanks a lot .!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bigguy88 said:


> hi
> 
> i'm new here. i just have access to a trimmer not a full router.
> Is it possible to make box joints with it?
> ...


If I understand you Steve the wood is 20mm thick, rather thick for a trim router, you would have to feed very slow and risk burn marks. You would of course have the trim router mounted under a table unless you are capable of making a suitable jig for use with a straight bearing bit. What is it that you're making, perhaps there is a more suitable joint. These shots show the basic type jigs that are used for routing box joints. By the way, welcome to the forum.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

G'day Steve.

Welcome to the forum.


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## bigguy88 (Jun 27, 2012)

thank you!

Sorry, i meant to say it is 10mm thick and not 20mm. 

the trimmer i got is a Maktec MT370. There is 4 small screws at the base. I guess I could build a small router table for it and then a jig . 

On hindsight, I should have maybe pay twice the price and get a Hitachi router instead.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The Maktec is made by MAKITA and is a first class product. Table mounted I don't see a problem using 10mm material. Post a couple of photographs when your project is finished, including any errors, and we all make those Steve!


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## Bradleytavares (Feb 25, 2012)

Been using a trim router as a dedicated router for dovetails as well as box joints. Seems to work well. Have a PC jig and real happy with it all


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## bigguy88 (Jun 27, 2012)

Bradleytavares said:


> Been using a trim router as a dedicated router for dovetails as well as box joints. Seems to work well. Have a PC jig and real happy with it all


Do you use a router table for doing the dovetails? 

my trimmer is using 1/4" shanks. I read I should not use too big a router bit as this trimmer has no variable speed control. Could I still use a dovetail bit?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bigguy88 said:


> thank you!
> 
> Sorry, i meant to say it is 10mm thick and not 20mm.
> 
> ...


HI Steve - That appears to be a quality router. The only issue that may come up with your application is that it appears to be a fixed speed, 35,000 rpm machine. You may need to develop some techniques to cut down on tearout. You may also experience some burning but that should be hidden by the joint and of no real consequence.


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## Bradleytavares (Feb 25, 2012)

mine is used in a PC jig, no router table for eather joint. Burns are hidden by the joint so they don't show. Tear out is stopped by precutting the ends. Haven't had any issues with the speed. Enjoy your time in the shop.


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## fep (Jun 28, 2012)

*table mount the router*



harrysin said:


> If I understand you Steve the wood is 20mm thick, rather thick for a trim router, you would have to feed very slow and risk burn marks. You would of course have the trim router mounted under a table unless you are capable of making a suitable jig for use with a straight bearing bit. What is it that you're making, perhaps there is a more suitable joint. These shots show the basic type jigs that are used for routing box joints. By the way, welcome to the forum.


Steve I would defintely fix the router to a router plate, it is just so much easier and safer.


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## slider (Jun 4, 2011)

There is a jig in this Months "shopnotes" magazine on how to make a jig for doing boxjoints that would work very well with a handheld trim router if it will accept guide bushings.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

I use Ridgid Trim Routers for my box joints and dovetails in 5/8 inch maximum thick stock in my 4216 PC Jig and as of yet not encountered any problems. Anything over 5/8 inch I use my 2-1/4 HP Ridgid Router.


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## bigguy88 (Jun 27, 2012)

cool ..thanks all for your input. 
I think i will try to build a small router table first. I may consider buying a jig depending how the router table experience turns out..


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## malb (Sep 15, 2008)

Steve, your palm router will be capable of handling 1/4 inch or there about box joints, but might be stressed if you were wanting to go to wider joints, due to the speed and amount of timber to be cleared.

You would appreciate that a box joint is a reasonably precise joint, the fingers must be a neat fit in the gaps on the other part of the joint. Too tight and they won't mesh at all, to loose and there is no mechanical support and poor glue bonding due to the need for the glue to gap fill. Just right, the fingers that you leave when cutting the joint must be the same width as the gap the bit cuts.

There are two configurations to cut the joint, both require some form of jig to control positioning, and both have been suggested in replies to your question, but there has not been a real distinction between them.

Harry used a table mounted router approach, where the router is fixed and the work moves relative to the router, aided by a guide strip and a largish push block behind.

Others talk about using a PC (Porter Cable) jig. In this method the work is positioned in a bench top jig, below a template with a series of slots in it. The router is fitted with a suitable template guide, and moves in and out of the slots in the template, guided by the template guide. Alternative templates for the jig give different functions (various dovetails etc) and sizes of joint.

A third possibility is a hybrid approach, using a table and template guide, with a template similar to that used in the bench top jigs clamped to the end of the work to guide it past the cutter.

The table style jigs can be home made, supplied by Rockler and others, and used to be available from Oak Park, but I can't find a current link for them and know that they have been winding down their components business. Typical bench top jigs are Porter Cable and Leigh D series and Super Jigs. For the Hybrid system, suppliers that I know of include Gifkins and Leigh R series. Most suppliers have video clips on their web sites detailing the setup and use of their product, mostly pretty good info. The Router Workshop TV/subscription web video/DVD program probably gives the most overall information, but I suspect their hardware product is now sold out.

If you just want basic box joint capability, I think the table approach would be the way to go cost wise as you can make a basic table from MDF scrap, buy a cutter and jig reasonably cheaply, and be cutting. However if you want to move up to other joints in the future, a benchtop or hybrid system may be the way to go, provided that you research what each is capable of before committing.

Hope this helps you


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

see the bottom of the web page

Fast Joint Precision Joinery System

router is a 1/4" Trim Colt router in the router table

==


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## bigguy88 (Jun 27, 2012)

thanks once again for all the great info. I willl hv to digest them slowly.


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## bigguy88 (Jun 27, 2012)

i trying to come up with simple box joint jig on a small router table that I have quickly built.

The jig simply has 2 slots. one to hold the key. I am using a 7/32 bit. My problem is that the "finger" between the 2 slots will be easier broken. (see where i circle on my attachment.)

How can i prevent that? thanks!


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

bigguy88 said:


> i trying to come up with simple box joint jig on a small router table that I have quickly built.
> 
> The jig simply has 2 slots. one to hold the key. I am using a 7/32 bit. My problem is that the "finger" between the 2 slots will be easier broken. (see where i circle on my attachment.)
> 
> How can i prevent that? thanks!


Look at your grain. Box joints are usually cut in end grain. It is a lot weaker if you cut in crosscut... The usual joint of a finger joint box along the cross grain side is a rabbet joint with the finger joints on both end grain sides.

It can be done crosscut, but would really need to be cut slowly and with support. If you were able to cut it without blowing out, it would still need to be supported while putting the joint together, where it is still at high risk of breaking. To cut this cross grain you are totally at the mercy of how close and tight your grain is. Even with good wood and being supporting, you don't have the strength you have with the same joint cut into end grain.


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## bigguy88 (Jun 27, 2012)

thanks MAFoElffen. i think i get what u meant. 
I will try to find another wider broad so that i can cut in end grain to make the jig.


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