# Bit sharpness questions



## alfromelkhorn (Aug 18, 2011)

Even though I have had a router for years, I have not had much time to use it until recently. Now I am making wall plaques to sell at craft fairs, and am noticing a lot of "peel" and ragged cuts on some, but not all, of the boards I am routing.

I am thinking the bit may be getting dull. How can I tell if that is the case... and if so, can it be shapened, or should I just replace it? I am using a beading bit.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Al,

A lot of things can cause the edges to fuzz, such as the type of wood and the moisture content.

The simplest way to check bit sharpness is to remove the bit from the router and run the edge over the back of your fingernail. A sharp bit will peel some off, a dull bit will slide across it.

You can take a diamond honing file (the duosharp type- mine is a harbor freight cheap set, but works) and stroke it across the face of the carbide and dress the edge a little. Good bits can be sharpened, but it could be almost half the cost of a replacement.

Scroll down halfway on the link below and find some honing information

Legacy Woodworking


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## del schisler (Feb 2, 2006)

i didn't read the other post's. Do you cut the end grain first?? If not do that first. Than the long grain next. fuse can come from the wood that you are using?? With a sharp bit their should be no fuzz . If you thank the bit is dull get a new one and use the new one on the same wood if better than you know that the bit is dull?? You can get the sharpen but some time's on dove tail bit's that changes the size and may fit loose unless you adjust your setting's on the jig?? good luck


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

First off, are they carbide, or hss bits? Carbide don't normally take to sharping well!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

alfromelkhorn said:


> *Even though I have had a router for years, I have not had much time to use it until recently. Now I am making wall plaques to sell at craft fairs, and am noticing a lot of "peel" and ragged cuts on some, but not all, of the boards I am routing.
> 
> I am thinking the bit may be getting dull. How can I tell if that is the case... and if so, can it be shapened, or should I just replace it? I am using a beading bit.*


I agree with Doug that it may be moisture content. The fact that it does some well and others not so well makes me think that it is not so much the bit. If you are using lumber recently purchased to make your plaques from, moisture content could vary by quite a bit. Kiln drying dries the boards at the top of the kiln very dry and the ones at the bottom not as dry. You may need to buy ahead of time and let your boards air dry for a while. 
I also touch up my bits with diamond hones. You need the equivalent of 600 grit on the final honing to get a decent edge. Not as good as a CNC sharpening but it will make a noticeable improvement.


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## The Warthog (Nov 29, 2010)

I have had carbide (Freud) bits sharpened. It cost about 40% of the cost of a new bit, but IMO was worth it. You do lose a little of the diameter of the bit, so if you are making dadoes to fit precisely you may have to make allowances for the change in size.


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## derek willis (Jan 21, 2009)

One expert in routing said in one of his books,"that to test the sharpness of a router bit, you should be able to shave the surface of your thumbnail with it", if you can't then the bit is dull, I have made this a tried and tested method of testing.


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## alfromelkhorn (Aug 18, 2011)

*Thanks everyone!

I checked th bit against my thumbnail as you suggested. It seems sharp enough, so now I'm thinking the moisture content of the wood you mentioned may be the culprit. I have been buying culled lumber out of the bin, and using it within a short period of time. Hmmm!!!

The label for the bit case is long gone, and the bits themselves don't indicate what they are made of, so I don't know if sharpening is a future option.

Del, I discovered early on that I had to do the end grain first because it would sometimes splinter the trailing edge. Doing the end grain first allowed me to end up with a clean edge all the way around. There are probably a lot more tricks I have to learn yet.

Thanks again!
Al
*


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Al, many bits can be identified by their color or at least narrow it down some. For example Freud's quality bits are a bright red, their less expensive Avanti line is unfinished. CMT uses orange; Woodcraft a dark green; Rockler a bright light blue; Whiteside and Amana are unfinished but clearly labeled. Bosch uses a dark blue; Hickory uses a gray. Most light green or yellow bits are made in Taiwan or China; an exception is the bright yellow used by one specialty bit maker as seen below. Solid carbide bits are always unfinished but you can feel the difference in weight. Katana, Magna and Porter Cable use different shades of magenta to burgandy.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

That would be nice but it's not ,many of the blue ones/red ones/white ones (HF type ) are from Taiwan or China and the yellows ones can be many shades and many of the lower ends ones are just plane gray..(no paint at all) like some of the Freuds /Amana bits.
The best way I have found is the size of the carb.on the bits, the lower ones use less than the high end ones and they are honed at 800 grit.and the lower ones are at 600 grit. stones...BUT they do dull quicker than most, is hard to cheat on carb. the only way is to use less..to keep the cost down and not having a QC dept. check them all coming off the line..


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Mike said:


> Al, many bits can be identified by their color or at least narrow it down some. For example Freud's quality bits are a bright red, their less expensive Avanti line is unfinished. CMT uses orange; Woodcraft a dark green; Rockler a bright light blue; Whiteside and Amana are unfinished but clearly labeled. Bosch uses a dark blue; Hickory uses a gray. Most light green or yellow bits are made in Taiwan or China; an exception is the bright yellow used by one specialty bit maker as seen below. Solid carbide bits are always unfinished but you can feel the difference in weight. Katana, Magna and Porter Cable use different shades of magenta to burgandy.


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