# Looking for a good Router



## The Banker (Mar 3, 2012)

I am looking to buy a good router for a router table. The 1/4" chuck Router I have, does not extend the bit far enough above the table top to use the entire bit. It is very hard to adjust the depth control of the plunge router, I have. Larry


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

With a lift kit built into them.

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

Sears: Online department store featuring appliances, tools, fitness equipment and more

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The Banker said:


> I am looking to buy a good router for a router table. The 1/4" chuck Router I have, does not extend the bit far enough above the table top to use the entire bit. It is very hard to adjust the depth control of the plunge router, I have. Larry


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

The Banker said:


> I am looking to buy a good router for a router table. The 1/4" chuck Router I have, does not extend the bit far enough above the table top to use the entire bit. It is very hard to adjust the depth control of the plunge router, I have. Larry



Welcome to the forum , Larry.

There are so many makes/models available in US/Canada - hard to make a recommendation - everyone has their favourites.


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## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

I have purchased a Triton, but have not used it yet.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

The Banker said:


> I am looking to buy a good router for a router table. The 1/4" chuck Router I have, does not extend the bit far enough above the table top to use the entire bit. It is very hard to adjust the depth control of the plunge router, I have. Larry


Hi Larry - Welcome to the forum
First question I have is how do you have the router attached to the table? Directly to the top or with the use of a mounting plate? If you aren't using a mounting plate, the top thickness is eating up a lot of your cut depth. 
As far as ease of adjustment, the Craftsman routers should go a long way to alleviate that. Please note that several other manufacturers offer the capability too, Porter Cable, Bosch and Triton to name a few.


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## Tin man (Mar 4, 2012)

First question is whats your table? second whats your budget? third what do you plan to use it for? For instance, if you are making raised panels for cabinet doors, you probably want to consider a really powerful router like the Milwaukee 5625-9 or something similiar. If you are going to be using smaller bits you can look at less powerful options. The amount of travel and method of adjustment is going to be real important for you as well.


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## woodrouterreviewsguy (Feb 21, 2012)

As some others have stated, it really depends on your preference and use. 
Here are my reviews of some of the top models on the market to help you in your research.
Best Wood Router Reviews


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## kenngordo (Feb 27, 2012)

You can buy a 1/4" collet extension from MLCSWOODWORKING.COM for about $30.00.
Gordo


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## The Banker (Mar 3, 2012)

Thanks for all your help. I am looking at a woodpecker lift table and a 3.5 Hp Milwaukee motor. Looks awsome, but pricy. Larry


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## Leifs1 (Dec 16, 2009)

kenngordo said:


> You can buy a 1/4" collet extension from MLCSWOODWORKING.COM for about $30.00.
> Gordo


Hmm....Yes but you still need a router with ½" collet to put it in ?
I don't think one can get extensions for 1/4" routers or maybe I'm wrong. So far I have only seen for ½" or 8mm collets.


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## Wini (May 14, 2010)

*What I have*



The Banker said:


> Thanks for all your help. I am looking at a woodpecker lift table and a 3.5 Hp Milwaukee motor. Looks awsome, but pricy. Larry


I have the SideWinder lift and love it! Can't imagine how I could have ever gotten along without it in the past. Excellent lift.


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## clifft (May 18, 2010)

The Banker said:


> I am looking to buy a good router for a router table. The 1/4" chuck Router I have, does not extend the bit far enough above the table top to use the entire bit. It is very hard to adjust the depth control of the plunge router, I have. Larry


Hi Larry,
more than you asked, I must learn to be more brief))

I am not sure if there is a best router?

As others have said it depends on what you are doing.

I have 2 Bosch - the 1619 in a Lee Valley table,
and the 1617 fixed and plunge kit which I use for
free hand and Leigh dovetail jig and Leigh mortise
and tenon jig.

I do not have a router lift, and don't see it as 
being a major requirement for me. The Lee table is
not that friendly for router lifts.

If I had to do many household door hinges, I would
consider adding a palm router.

The Lee table with the large router can handle raised
panel bits. Some 1/2" coping bits have longer shafts
than others as I do not like using either extenders
nor reduction adaptors. I made my own coping sled
with a thinner base to avoid needing bit extenders,
although one does not have to use a coping sled.

The thinner Lee table gives a tiny bit extra height.

The 3hp router is a bit large for the Leigh jigs,
although it will also work.
I have 1/4, 8mm, 3/8, and 1/2 inch collet nuts for
the Bosch. They fit both routers.
The 2 1/4 hp used for free hand and both Leigh jigs,
where I use both fixed and plunge base.

The challenge for me was to do a variety of operations
as safely as possible.

From arched raised panel doors, dovetailed drawers,
mortise and tenon joints, circular slots, straight slots,
and more.

I have more invested in bits and jigs than the cost
of the actual routers. 

My first router was 1/4 inch, 30,000 rpm which was scary
to use. Now I use my routers for most operations.


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## gevans02 (Jul 1, 2011)

The Banker said:


> Thanks for all your help. I am looking at a woodpecker lift table and a 3.5 Hp Milwaukee motor. Looks awsome, but pricy. Larry


Why waste money on a router lift? They are quite expensive. There are a lot of good routers out there with that come with a fixed base that allows height adjustment from the top when mounted in a table which negates the need for a lift. I'd be surprised if the MIlwaukee doesn't have that feature. With the money you save by not buying a lift, buy a second router instead. Then you'd have one dedicated to a table and one as a handheld unit. If you only buy one router, they are available as a kit with one motor and both a fixed and plunge base.


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## FixitMike (Aug 14, 2011)

For hand held routing, I've found the convenience of a compact router outweighs any problem with their lower power. I like the DeWalt 611. It has LED lights and is available with a plunge base which is even better.

For a router lift, consider the MLCS motorized lift. It looks great, and not that much more than a regular lift. For a non-motorized lift, the Bench Dog is great. It moves 1/8" per turn of the adjusting screw, which is twice what others do. Takes half as many turns to change bits.


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## Richard Carter (Feb 11, 2012)

*Under Table Router*

My criteria for an under-table mounted router would be:

1) Minimum 15A motor; nearly everyone makes a version of this. A lot of misinformation and nonsense has been flying around for years about horsepower, such as "developed" horsepower, "max" horsepower etc. to be ignored; I would just get the biggest (amperage) motor available on single phase that you can find. Heavier (mass/weight) motors are best, too. To this end, I would avoid plastic in the motor, for further reasons which are topic(s) for another forum post, no doubt.

2) I would be looking for adjustable speed. As you advance in your demands on your motor, you are not going to want to put all cutters, especially wide ones, on highest 22-30,000 RPM. RPM will want to change with the materials being routed, also.

3) I would go for a motor for which their are multiple bases; for example, it is unlikely you will want a plunge base for your table work, but you may want to transfer the motor from the table for other uses, one variation being plunge work. If you have the simple stock router base and a 3/4" plywood (marine-grade or high-ply baltic birch) table top, you can, from the *underside*, rout out a recess the footprint size of your base plate, leaving 3/8-1/2" of the tabletop thickness to take the place of your base plate, then affix the base to the remaining table top using the base plate screws.

4) If you have another $2-400, replace the above simple table top base-oriented setup with a lifter cage, typically motor-specific. These will likely involve routing a recess into the *topside *of your table, the opposite of the above base-oriented version. A lifter cage is not essential, but nice if you find yourself spending a lot of time on the table and want more robust precision. If you plan in advance, you can buy the lifter cage later, and your thereby-chosen motor will then transfer to it (unless there is a manufacturer change in the "standard" motor diameter in the meantime, as happened to me).

5) Get a popular model for which there are a lot of accessories, availability of repair parts, highly-rated warranty regime, and forum advice. This is a good example of "the law of large numbers," which you definitely want to work in your favor. Be cautious of discontinued models being discounted accordingly, an enticement to grief.

6) Avoid the "motor only" offers. For a little extra money, you will get a stock router base and a set of the collet wrenches, neither of which one can never have enough of.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Larry, any of the name brand routers should serve you well. Pat Warner likes DeWalt. HarrySin likes Makita. BJ(Bobj3) prefers the Craftsman combo kits. Rick and I prefer Bosch. You best bet is to get your hands on the routers and compare the features for what makes most sense to you.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

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## gsmilo52 (Jan 20, 2012)

I have a Bosch 1617 EVS 2.25 HP with 1/2" and 1/4" collets and both plunge and fixed bases mounted on a Bosch RA1171 25.5" wide table; a Ryobi R163 1.5 HP, 1/4" collet, and a Porter Cable 690 1.75 HP on a 1101 fixed base, 1/4" and 1/2" collets. The Bosch stays on the table for use with heavier bits, and the others used for work _ can't handle on the table, smaller bits and for use with the dove tail jig. I prefer making saw dust to tool setup. All have reasonable easy bit change and simple, accurate depth adjustment. The PC router base can take all my template guides, the other two need adapters._


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Milo


The Craftsman can take on all the PC guides right out of the box plus many extra items like built in lift kit, lights, edge guide,vac.pickup tube on both the bases ,etc. plus it's 2 1/2 HP and all for 1/2 the price of the Bosch..

http://www.amazon.com/BOSCH-MRC23EV...ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1331079950&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-MRC23EV...ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1331079950&sr=1-3


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gsmilo52 said:


> I have a Bosch 1617 EVS 2.25 HP with 1/2" and 1/4" collets and both plunge and fixed bases mounted on a Bosch RA1171 25.5" wide table; a Ryobi R163 1.5 HP, 1/4" collet, and a Porter Cable 690 1.75 HP on a 1101 fixed base, 1/4" and 1/2" collets. The Bosch stays on the table for use with heavier bits, and the others used for work _ can't handle on the table, smaller bits and for use with the dove tail jig. I prefer making saw dust to tool setup. All have reasonable easy bit change and simple, accurate depth adjustment. The PC router base can take all my template guides, the other two need adapters._


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## lazaroc98 (Oct 20, 2011)

Triton 9 Amp MidiPlunge Router
Item# 153187 got this router on sale at wood craft 99.00 plus shipping was 109.98 read good and bad but took a chance on it because the price came in put it thru the mill and i have no complaint other that three trigger switch is a little awkward but no other complaints jof001 is the model # good luck on your search


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## rwo1908 (Nov 22, 2011)

Larry,

I went to my local library, got a copy of Carol Reed's "Router Joinery Workshop" and built her bench top router table. With it, I am using a Bosch 1617EVSPK using the fixed base in the table. You may need a larger table, but I find that this combination allows for very convenient height adjustment. Given the current prices of acrylic though, I used 3/4-inch MDF for the top with 3 coats of varnish. I did need to make adjustments for the fact that the MDF was 3/8-inch thicker than the acrylic top that was specified. I made two fences - one as specified in the book, and a second one for jointing. You can also buy a second fixed base for the Bosch (around $60) that you can leave in the router table permanently.

I feel I need to tell you that I am not all that experienced in woodworking. My choice of this router table was based on research I had done in this forum previously.

Good luck.


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## trinci (Mar 30, 2010)

*It's unwise to pay to much*



The Banker said:


> I am looking to buy a good router for a router table. The 1/4" chuck Router I have, does not extend the bit far enough above the table top to use the entire bit. It is very hard to adjust the depth control of the plunge router, I have. Larry


but, it's worse to pay to little.When you pay to much,you lose a little money... that is all. When you pay to little,you sometimes lose everything,because the thing you bought was incapable of doing the thing it was bought to do.
The common law of business balance prohibits paying a little and getting a lot. It can't be done.
If you deal with the lowest bidder, it is well to add something for this risk you run. If you do that, you will have enough to pay for something better.
John Ruskin 1819- 1900 I'd buy a heavy duty variable speed Bosch.


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## oilfan (Jan 27, 2012)

A friend of mine 15 years ago gave me some advice about routers. his opinion has proven right for myself. he told me buy a PORTERCABLE kit. you get both plunge and fixed base routers. he told me they would out last most anything else on the market.
well honestly other than the double bolt system to tighten and loosen the bits everythig else is rock solid. 
i attached the fixed base to a router table (small canadian tire model). ive made panel
cabinet doors and used rail and stile bits- locking 45- round overs- cove - ogee- and even tried to make some crown molding. all has been through the porter cable router with freud bits. the plung router i have used for key hole bits and even routered stringers for my deck stairs to keep the depth consistant. i had the brushes changed as they squeeled after 14 years. pretty good bang for the buck! ive heard the dewalt kits work just as well but havent tired myself.
Porter cables are built to last, and for the kit the price is reasonable. at service center
you can get a refurbished one usually for considerably less and hold same as or better value than new. in my humble opinion.


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## oilfan (Jan 27, 2012)

just to add-: the porter cable kit comes with 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets. the speed is not variable. however my buddy uses two porter cable routers for his woodworking buissiness.
he has closets full of sears that just couldnt handle the oak and maple on a higher demand.
as for just starting out the porter cable offers two bases- and the motor is inter changeable... if you like it that much then later purchasing a second motor to fit the same bases is relatively easy. many of the models are similar and bases can be inter used. recently i picked up the handle for free handing counters with oak trim and works very well. i believe most of the larger brand names will all be great products.
bosch tends to make everything well. i have miter saws by them and they are great.
makita, dewalt, milwaukee, triton ive heard are all great products just with subtle differences. good luck and happy routering - first time i made a rasied panel for an armoire with rail and stile bits i was absolutely mesmorized!!


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Mike said:


> Larry, any of the name brand routers should serve you well. Pat Warner likes DeWalt. HarrySin likes Makita. BJ(Bobj3) prefers the Craftsman combo kits. Rick and I prefer Bosch. You best bet is to get your hands on the routers and compare the features for what makes most sense to you.


Hi Larry and welcome to the forum,

And I like the PC 892 for table use. Milwaukee also makes routers that work very well as table routers. What Mike said about getting your hands on and/or read as much as you can about routers that will or will not make good table routers. This forum is an excellent place to start your learning process. The stickies above each heading is an excellent place to begin.

In time you may run across some of my posts and find I am the major dissenter in the forum against Router Lifts due to the cost and usefulness with so many routers available that do almost what a lift will, at nearly half the cost. In fact the only lift available that will do more than my PC 892 set-up is the MLCS Motorized lift. I can lock/unlock, adjust bit height, change bits and adjust router speed, all above the table. I will confess a lack of knowledge about changing router speed above the table with a lift. I am not sure if it is possible with any of the lifts or not.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

oilfan said:


> just to add-: the porter cable kit comes with 1/4 and 1/2 inch collets. the speed is not variable. however my buddy uses two porter cable routers for his woodworking buissiness.
> he has closets full of sears that just couldnt handle the oak and maple on a higher demand.
> as for just starting out the porter cable offers two bases- and the motor is inter changeable... if you like it that much then later purchasing a second motor to fit the same bases is relatively easy. many of the models are similar and bases can be inter used. recently i picked up the handle for free handing counters with oak trim and works very well. i believe most of the larger brand names will all be great products.
> bosch tends to make everything well. i have miter saws by them and they are great.
> makita, dewalt, milwaukee, triton ive heard are all great products just with subtle differences. good luck and happy routering - first time i made a rasied panel for an armoire with rail and stile bits i was absolutely mesmorized!!


Just to clarify which Porter-Cable router that doesn't have the ability to change speeds. There is only one model that isn't adjustable and all other PC routers have adjustable speeds. It is the 690LR at 27,00 RPM. The PC 690LRVS is speed adjustable.


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## truckers10 (Jun 22, 2011)

Gudday
I have a Triton router which is permanently mounted to a bench. It has a 1/2" collet and is designed for bench mounting applications. Height and speed adjustment is very good and relatively easy. I believe there is a kit available to adjust depth of cut from the table top, although I don't think this is strictly necessary and I have not needed it. 
I have only two reservations: one on reliability and the other on service. First reliability: after about two years hobby use it developed a problem: when first switched on after a few weeks being idle, it does not always start immediately and then when it does start, occasionally the speed will vary under load. After it has run for a few minutes it all settles down and behaves. That said, I would (and will) buy another Triton.
Now service: My email queries to the Triton service agent on the starting problem have been ignored and Triton routers have been out of stock here in Australia for more than a year. 
You might be better served in your part of the world. 
On general principles, I'd buy the bigest one I could afford!

Cheers and good luck!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Triton routers are handled in the US by a division of Kreg Tools.


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## oilfan (Jan 27, 2012)

true .. i have the 690lr from the kit.
works great no issues!
today i used a Dewalt base from the service 
center refurbished it is also from the kit
its variable speed - did some dovetails on the craftex 24 jig
worked perfectly! two small height adjustments!
very simple light wieght router!
this dewalt router is very easy to set up and had lots tourque!


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## The Banker (Mar 3, 2012)

Thanks to all for you advise. I did get the Woodpecker table . It came with a 3 1/2 HP JesEm router, made by Milawkee. It was the last one they had, got a pretty good deal.
Played with it a little, it seems great..................


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## Tin man (Mar 4, 2012)

The Banker said:


> Thanks to all for you advise. I did get the Woodpecker table . It came with a 3 1/2 HP JesEm router, made by Milawkee. It was the last one they had, got a pretty good deal.
> Played with it a little, it seems great..................


Congratulations on your new table and router, hope you get many hours of enjoyment and wonderful projects!:sold:


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## oilfan (Jan 27, 2012)

Larry
welcome to the wonderful world of routers..hahah any make or model
its a cool tool! you will def enjoy it..all the best and take care. keep visiting here !
lots of experienced guys offering great insights and info here!


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

woodrouterreviewsguy said:


> As some others have stated, it really depends on your preference and use.
> Here are my reviews of some of the top models on the market to help you in your research.
> Best Wood Router Reviews


How is it that the current line of Makita routers did not make the list?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tom

Looks like someone got it right this time and dropped the Makita LOL..

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mftha said:


> How is it that the current line of Makita routers did not make the list?


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## Grampa (Nov 1, 2008)

I have a freud 31/4 hp router in a freud table and find it very good the price was also good the package was 399. with table router both 1/4 and 1/2 collets . Home depot puts them on a couple times a year . Lots of power have done raised panel doors with ease. Hope this helps and does'nt add toyour cofusion.
Grampa


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## Ozziespur (May 29, 2012)

There doesn't appear to be a huge range of routers here in Australia. What routers I have found are never in stock & I have to wait weeks to get one. I have pretty much decided to go with a Triton JOF001 router with a supplementry base that fits the Leigh e-bush (extra AUD30.00). After waiting 3 months for my Leigh dovetail jig to arrive I can pick up my router & start dovetailing !!


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