# The making of a balloon clock



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Whilst this particular clock is quite small, it's total height being 185mm [7 3/8"], the size is determined by the diameter of the bezel. between 20 and 30mm is added to the dia. of the bezel. I have used metric measurements but there is no problem using imperial. where I have used a 30mm template guide and 10mm cutter, giving a 10mm offset, a 1 1/4" guide and 3/8" cutter giving a 7/8" offset would be quite OK. This project does not require the use of the skis but a jig/template box IS required, mine measures 300mm x 400mm but 12" X 15" is perfect. The three templates are made from 9mm [3/8"] MDF but this isn't critical. Note the mitred corners to make removal of the templates easy.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*Part two*

I've never made a secret of the fact that I make many silly mistakes but over the years have become adept at finding solutions. This second part shows the first mistake and how I chose to fix it. I should mention here that the size of the American Oak was 165mm [6 1/2"] X 210mm [8 1/4"] but this isn't critical, the important criteria is that at no point must it be possible for the cutter to touch the holding devices, be these cams, wedges or pieces of scrap MDF pinned around the sides.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Thank you harry, I shall take some time to look this over. 

You have confirmed a belief that I have that it isn't the mistakes we make, it how we recover from them that is important, and everyone makes mistakes not everyone can recover from their mistakes.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*Part three*

So far so good. It's now time to rout the rear of the clock, it's the same as the front but without the hole. It isn't essential to rout the opening in the base, for one of my clocks I made a frame around the body, using lock mitre joints but of course any joints will do. The finish was intended to be red mahogany stain followed by a few coats of shellac or Danish oil however, after it looking fine on a scrap piece, it looked shocking on the clock, hence the paint finish. I'm going to see if a suitable decal is available to take away the plainness.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*Part four, the base*

For some odd reason the photos. of making the base "went missing", found them in the camera download programme. Please let me know if shots seem out of order or don't make sense.

I do hope that at least a few members will have a go at making one of these clocks, it really is a good exercise in making templates and plunge routing.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*Part five to add missing shots*

I think all the shots are here now, the last one is to illustrate other sizes and finishes which can be made by following these same instructions. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask if there is something that you don't quite understand.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Excellent Harry,

I remember you sent me a diagram for the template some time ago, but these shots really put it into plain english.


James


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Harry you did it with this one great job. Really like the way the finish came out for you. Looks good to me. A+++ for the photo shoot.


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## Barry99 (Feb 10, 2009)

harrysin said:


> I think all the shots are here now, the last one is to illustrate other sizes and finishes which can be made by following these same instructions. Good luck and don't hesitate to ask if there is something that you don't quite understand.


Excellent work Harry. :happy: Thanks for taking the time to post the step by step pics. With out the pics and instructions I would be lost. I am going to have surgey and will be unable to do woodworking 3 to 6 months. Once I am able to, I will attempt to build one.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Excellent presentation, Harry! You are a craftsman, gentleman and a scholar.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thanks guys, I'm humbled by your kind remarks. Here is a final shot after adding a sticker to take away the plainness, in the past I've used decals (transfers) but the store no longer carries them so I settled for a sheet of 55 assorted stickers for the princely sum of $2.00 where decals cost me between $3.00 and $18.00 EACH, depending on size.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Excellent tutorial Harry! I really appreciate you taking the time to put it together.

But I do have to say that I think the Jarrah clock you made was much nicer than this one


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## oldnewbie (Sep 18, 2006)

Thanks for the superb photoshoot, Harry. I can't wait to try my hand at making this clock. It will have to wait for a while, due to circumstances at this time, but will definitely keep the tutorial in my files. Wonderful work. Thanks again.

Neal


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

All I can say is THANKS ,,, you do a great job when you get your head into it..

I will bookmark this one,I don't bookmark many but this one shows it all.

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## Ray H (Nov 22, 2008)

Harry,

Once again you have produced a magnificient tutorial. Thank You and keep up the good work.

Ray H


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thanks again guys. Greg, I have in fact made several Jarrah clocks but the fine red dust gets everywhere. This last one was made especially as a demonstration for forum members, so I chose a clean wood, which I happen to have in stock, kindly donated by a good friend who has been forced by age and ill health to finish his long woodworking career.

I purposely did not include a pediment and finial on this one as it would have introduced extra complexities which I felt could put off potential constructors.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hello Harry,

great work and a fine tutorial that really helps us beginners. im bookmarking this. one day i hope to try this. i will have to take a little time to calculate it to inches 

i have one question, the design on the front, did you paint it on or is it some type of decal?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

levon said:


> hello Harry,
> 
> great work and a fine tutorial that really helps us beginners. im bookmarking this. one day i hope to try this. i will have to take a little time to calculate it to inches
> 
> i have one question, the design on the front, did you paint it on or is it some type of decal?


Levon, no conversion is necessary. Find a suitable clock insert, say it's diameter is 3", add 3/8" all round, making the head diameter 3 3/4". Select a template guide let's say 1 1/4" and a 3/8" cutter, this gives an offset of 7/8" which in plain English means that the diameter of the head and waist in the template will be 3 3/4" + 1 3/4" = 5 1/2".
The important thing to remember Levon is that in a project where parts don't have to fit into each other, nothing is critical. As I said in the thread, these clocks can be any size you like, based on the diameter of the clock fit-up. The large Jarrah one shown has a 6" dia.fit-up, measures 17" from bottom of feet to tip of finial and weighs in at a hefty 10.7lbs.

Regarding your question, please go to the naughty corner for ten minutes then re-read post #11!


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Harry,

Thank you.  

This is a project I WILL attempt later on this summer.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

harrysin said:


> Levon, no conversion is necessary. Find a suitable clock insert, say it's diameter is 3", add 3/8" all round, making the head diameter 3 3/4". Select a template guide let's say 1 1/4" and a 3/8" cutter, this gives an offset of 7/8" which in plain English means that the diameter of the head and waist in the template will be 3 3/4" + 1 3/4" = 5 1/2".
> The important thing to remember Levon is that in a project where parts don't have to fit into each other, nothing is critical. As I said in the thread, these clocks can be any size you like, based on the diameter of the clock fit-up. The large Jarrah one shown has a 6" dia.fit-up, measures 17" from bottom of feet to tip of finial and weighs in at a hefty 10.7lbs.
> 
> Regarding your question, please go to the naughty corner for ten minutes then re-read post #11!


hey Harry,
in the naughty corner you had already sent a naughty girl? well i have a big smile on my face and i now see how the design was made!


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Harry,

i just had to tease you, but wanted you to know that i thank you very much for the information! youre a great guy for an Aussie!


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Thanks for that excellent step-by-step tutorial! (I'll bookmark this one for future reference)


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Don't forget guys and gals, I'm hoping that lots of you will give this one a go, take care with the templates then practice on cheap Pine, you'll be surprised how easy a project it is, bear in mind that I was age 66 when I made that big Jarrah one and I'm now getting close to 76 so all you comparative youngsters should find it a breeze.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*One less present to give*

because it's found a home in OUR bedroom.


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## Johann George (Dec 2, 2008)

Harry,

Just a couple of questions. Do you know if the cutters that you show in pictures #49 and #52 are readily available? I've been looking for them for some time and cannot find them. Do you have any suggestions for me if I am unable to locate them?

Thanks.

This photo shoot is an improvement over your previous one, althought the previous one was very good as well.

John


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

I'm sure Harry will have a spot to get them but just in case here's some links with the part number and once you have that you can fine them on the net.

CMT Flush and V-Groove Router Bit
CMT Bull Nose Router Bits

1 pc 1/2" Shank with 1/8" Rad. Triple Bead Router Bit - eBay (item 130303220116 end time May-28-09 11:10:20 PDT)

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Johann George said:


> Harry,
> 
> Just a couple of questions. Do you know if the cutters that you show in pictures #49 and #52 are readily available? I've been looking for them for some time and cannot find them. Do you have any suggestions for me if I am unable to locate them?
> 
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thanks for jumping in Bj, I've only just seen this post. Johann, bj's first link shows the exact cutter that I used, however the second link is just a standard bullnose cutter whereas we require one with a bearing, and then either sleeve the bearing to at least bring it in line with the cutters. Here is a link to Carbitool in Australia, but I know their range of cutters are available in the US but I'm sure other brands make similar ones. Carbitool also have a range of bearings and one 13/16" will keep the cutter clear and still give a nice bullnose. The diameter of the bullnose is 5/32" and Carbitools part number is TB2B.

CARB-I-TOOL


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

John,
you can also get the bits from MLCS for a little less than what the CMT bits cost.

Flush Trimming V-Notch Bit:
MLCS Flush Trim router router bits

Bull Nose Bit with Bearing:
MLCS bullnose and train track router bits






Johann George said:


> Harry,
> 
> Just a couple of questions. Do you know if the cutters that you show in pictures #49 and #52 are readily available? I've been looking for them for some time and cannot find them. Do you have any suggestions for me if I am unable to locate them?
> 
> ...


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## Johann George (Dec 2, 2008)

Bj, Harry and Greg,

Thanks for the prompt reply. I appreciate it.

John


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Harry excellent tutorial! This goes on my to do list for sure! BTW I think the unidentified brass parts you made the feet out of are lamp shade finials. They screw on to hold the shade on. But they make very nice feet! Thanks for sharing your expertise!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Deb, you're probably right, my main supplier, who supplies most retail outlets in Australia bought a huge poly bagful of these in an order from America, not knowing what they were, he thought they were parts for chandeliers, but I think your answer is probably the correct one. I think that I was the first customer to buy some of these, seeing the potential to use them as finials on many of my projects, the clock feet came as a bonus.


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## TreasureChest (Feb 7, 2009)

Harry, you really spent some time and thought into that didn't you? and making sure you took pictures along the way just made the project take that much longer. I thank you for taking the time and effort to do it! Very clever approach.

Have you ever considered using one 2" thick board instead of two 1" boards? (working out the problems, of course) like no raised edges, maybe just rounded over or beaded instead.

It really makes you think about the size of the Guide and Bit to get the offset you're looking for doesn't it?

You did a great job in making the project as well as documenting it with pictures!

Thank you again. glad I dropped in again!

Later.


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## TreasureChest (Feb 7, 2009)

very pretty


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

TreasureChest said:


> Harry, you really spent some time and thought into that didn't you? and making sure you took pictures along the way just made the project take that much longer. I thank you for taking the time and effort to do it! Very clever approach.
> 
> Have you ever considered using one 2" thick board instead of two 1" boards? (working out the problems, of course) like no raised edges, maybe just rounded over or beaded instead.
> 
> ...


Thanks for your kind comments John. Most of my projects are designed to use materials that I have, most of my wood is given by friends and friends of friends. When I retired I made it known that I was on the lookout for FREE wood, and it's amazing what I've been given in the last eight years.
Routing through 2" hardwood can be quite slow taking cuts of about 3/16" and cleaning out the groove after each cut, but otherwise I see no reason why not, especially in softwood. I do intend to make one without the raised edge and try a round over.
Regarding guide and cutter sizes, for this type of project where two parts don't have to fit together, nothing is critical, generally speaking choose a large guide, this allows you to SEE what's happening and prevents the debris from compacting. If you have a 1.5" guide, then a 3/8" cutter would be very suitable, this combination gives an offset of 1 1/8" or we can use the same 1.5" guide with a 1/2" cutter in which case the offset is 1" ie: dia of guide - dia of cutter. When routing a hole, the hole in the template will be the required hole size in finished project plus the offset X 2. Thanks also for your interest John.


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## Router Newbie (Jun 12, 2011)

Hi Harry,

Wonderful tutorial. Just a quick question - "how do you access the clock rear to change the battery?"


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Stan

Just a butt in post 

The clock is not setting in a blind pocket hole unless you want it that way, it's open on the back side.  so you and access...or just pop it out of the frame,the cheap battery clocks don't last very long or keep good time and I'm almost sure you will need to replace it down the road, so to say don't glue the clock in place.

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...42028901-making-balloon-clock-new-clock42.jpg
===


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Router Newbie said:


> Hi Harry,
> 
> Wonderful tutorial. Just a quick question - "how do you access the clock rear to change the battery?"


As Bob said, it can be a blind or through hole. The clock in question is a blind hole because I used a proper clock "fit-up" which can be pulled out from the front, however, on the second clock shown I used everything except the case from a clock bought from a $2.00 shop, and as is shown it's been held with hot melt glue for several years since I made it so it required a through hole. The cover is MDF and it's held firmly in place with sticky tape!


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## Router Newbie (Jun 12, 2011)

Thanks guys, appreciate the clarification. Happy routing!


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

harrysin said:


> For some odd reason the photos. of making the base "went missing", found them in the camera download programme. Please let me know if shots seem out of order or don't make sense.
> 
> I do hope that at least a few members will have a go at making one of these clocks, it really is a good exercise in making templates and plunge routing.


I like the way you used some OLD BOAT ANCHOR transformers 
you had laying around that hadn't quite "Retired". LOL

Atta way to go... Mate! :dance3:


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