# Sharpening my tools



## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

I tried a search here but came up with nothing much.

My tool sharpening skills are below sub par (and that's being nice to myself). Yesterday I tried to sharpen a block plane iron - so now let's just say it's better but that's not saying much. A while back I bought a set of small DMT diamond 'stones' and so far have not been overjoyed with their performance other then putting a better edge on my Swiss army knife. I've spent some time on the 'net - no clue as to how many different stones there are, but it has to be in the dozens if not more. There are machines 'guaranteed' to be the best way along with motor driven wheels and different kinds of guides that keep the correct angles on a wheel or even a bench stone ..... well you get the idea.

My dilemma - plane irons, chisels from small carving size to about 2 inches wide, my pocket knives and of course SWMBO's Wusthoff kitchen set. Is there a common denominator, a good method or even good sharpening devices like my Drill Doctor (that works nicely once I figured it out).


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

IC31 said:


> I tried a search here but came up with nothing much.
> 
> My tool sharpening skills are below sub par (and that's being nice to myself). Yesterday I tried to sharpen a block plane iron - so now let's just say it's better but that's not saying much. A while back I bought a set of small DMT diamond 'stones' and so far have not been overjoyed with their performance other then putting a better edge on my Swiss army knife. I've spent some time on the 'net - no clue as to how many different stones there are, but it has to be in the dozens if not more. There are machines 'guaranteed' to be the best way along with motor driven wheels and different kinds of guides that keep the correct angles on a wheel or even a bench stone ..... well you get the idea.
> 
> My dilemma - plane irons, chisels from small carving size to about 2 inches wide, my pocket knives and of course SWMBO's Wusthoff kitchen set. Is there a common denominator, a good method or even good sharpening devices like my Drill Doctor (that works nicely once I figured it out).


over time and many many dollars later.... and I mean many...
this fool proof jewel stood out heads over many other "things"... 
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=51868&cat=1,43072,43078&ap=1

a thread on it...
http://www.routerforums.com/tools-woodworking/45220-veritas-mk-ii-honing-guide.html

the other is this where have you been all my life sweet heart...
http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=67090&cat=1,43072


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Might as well go all in...
Diamond Grinding Wheels 6 inch Lapidary Diamond Grinding Wheels


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

I agree with Stick re the Veritas® Mk.II Honing Guide. Great product for a mug like me.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Check what Lee Valley has for sharpening. Leonard Lee, who founded Lee Valley, wrote the definitive book on sharpening, not my words, that is what Sorby chisel maker of the UK said about it. They make some of the best and most expensive chisels and lathe tools in the world. I use diamond stones, diamond and carbide sandpaper, and a felt wheel with honing compound for my sharpening. The diamond stones or hones are Chinese, the sandpaper comes from either Lee Valley or Heleta Industries (used to be Bullit or Bullet) in the the states, and the felt wheel and green honing compound are from Lee Valley although they can be purchased in a lot of places. The green compound is equivalent to 8000 grit and will put a mirror finish on an edge. I'm only satisfied when I'm able to effortlessly shave hair off the back or my hand or forearm.


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## PAD3 (Oct 20, 2013)

I just bought a brand new Woodworking Tool Sharpener WS3000 off Craig's list. It is a terrific tool for sharpening most woodworking tools. 

Simple, easy to use and gives a fine sharp edge. As an amateur woodworker I really like the idea of this tool. It will not do everything, but it does enough for me.

There are many videos on youtube about it's operation and use. It may not be for purists but it works for me.

I purchased mine, brand new in the box, for a little over 1/2 price retail from Craig's list


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## boogalee (Nov 24, 2010)

IC31 said:


> My dilemma - plane irons, chisels from small carving size to about 2 inches wide, my pocket knives and of course SWMBO's Wusthoff kitchen set. Is there a common denominator, a good method or even good sharpening devices like my Drill Doctor (that works nicely once I figured it out).


Work Sharp

Work Sharp acc.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

This short video might help, if not just do a Google search.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rvop_JCfZGI


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

I knew if I asked I would get lots of good information. I've just placed a reserve at the library for a couple books, one by Leonard Lee and the other by Lie-Nielsen and will buy the one that works best for me. That Lee Valley arrangement seems like a good way to go - they, if you look in their on-line catalog, have a half dozen of that similar style along with a bucket full of others that will need to be looked at before I put the ol' nose clip on and jump in the deep end of the pool. I have been using something like the Scary Method and a piece of glass (now busted) to do a final hone and that seems to be a fairly economical way vs a bunch of very expensive water or oil stones that can easily go out of flat.

Thanks for the directional help folks


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## john60 (Aug 30, 2014)

I got the WorkSharp 3000 for Christmas. I have an old Staanle # 5 I have been going to clean up. I cleaned and flattened the sole on my 6 x 48'belt sander fininshing with 220 grit.

I first surfaced both side of the iron on the 220 grit belt sander to cleean on the rust 

Then I used the worksharp for the flattening the back. Then set the angle to 25 degrees. Worked thru all the grits and now have mirrow finish on the iron cutting edge and it will shave the hair on my arm. I sharpened a couple of lathe gouges free hand using the slotted wheel and they cam out very nice.

The same people that make the drill doctor make the worksharp. They have a belt attachment for sharpening knives ( I don't have that as I alreday have there knife sharpener).
I also did a cheap block plane iron that I had recently done by hand using a wood river guide and final 600 grit diamond. When I was through I had a much superior edge.

Please not the the sandpaper system will not work with carbide tips. The do make a couple of diamond hones as accesories.


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## johannmendelsohn (Mar 17, 2014)

Buy yourself a Tormek system from the Swiss. You will never look back!


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

johannmendelsohn said:


> Buy yourself a Tormek system from the Swiss. You will never look back!


Johan - I've seen them advertised but they are way beyond my means for a single tool (though I do lust at the thought of owning one:wacko


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Dave

You know, lots of people spend lots of money on this and _never_ get it right........ The thing is that if you are just starting out sharpening then a basic sharpening kit and a bit of time learning how to do things by hand are probably a better investment than splashing out a load of money on expensive kit but not learning the basics - a bit like woodworking, really.

A very basic starter kit comprises:

- a simple honing guide, such as the old Eclipse #36 honing jig (still available as the Spear & Jackson #94-360R in the UK, but loads of copies around, including one at Lie-Nielsen)
- a combination waterstone (250x/1000x or similar so long as the fine grit is 1000x)
- a plastic tray with a piece of router ant-slip mat (to hold the waterstone whilst honing)
- a plastic bucket (to store the waterstone under water between sessions)
- a piece of float glass (or a low-cost granite chopping board, so long as it's flat) and a sheet or drywall sanding mesh (100x or 120x, not that important which) with another piece of router anti-slip mat (for reflattening the waterstone when it hollows out)

Total expenditure circa $65 or $70 I'd reckon. There is no need for $500 waterstone sets, $150 diamond stones, $500 machines, etc when you start out. The only "tweak" to this kit is that the honing guide needs to be tuned with a file before use - and that's on the same page as the L-N guide. 

There are two other "tweaks" to the process - the first one is to make-up a setting jig for your honing guide from an offcut of plywood with pieces of something like 2 x 1in planed timber fixed in 3 positions (for 25, 30 and 35 degree bevels) - the second one is to learn the (David Charlesworth) "ruler trick" (Google it). When you flat the back of a chisel you need to flat the bottom 2 or 3 inches, but on a plane iron the work involved can be much reduced using the ruler trick

Once you've mastered sharpening basics (using the 250x to remove nicks and grind new angles, the 1000x to polish out the angle and hone) it's time to add a 2000x waterstone to get a better, more polished edge. But don't go there until you've got the basic process working for you

I've learned to grind and hone chisels and plane irons freehand, figure of 8 style and I carry three diamond hones to site with me - but, it takes a long time to acquire those skills and the diamonds are only carried because they are unbreakable and don't need water (essential for such a rough environment). At home I still use waterstones when I sharpen

Regards

Phil


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

johannmendelsohn said:


> Buy yourself a Tormek system from the Swiss. You will never look back!


Hi Johann

Tormek are Swedish, *not* Swiss. Been there, had one, still not the best IMHO - Sorby ProEdge puts it in the shade. It's effectively a home shop version of the equipment used in edge tool manufacturers like Ashley Isles, Footprint, etc

Regards

Phil


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Phil P said:


> Hi Johann
> 
> Tormek are Swedish, *not* Swiss. Been there, had one, still not the best IMHO - Sorby ProEdge puts it in the shade. It's effectively a home shop version of the equipment used in edge tool manufacturers like Ashley Isles, Footprint, etc
> 
> ...


most any bench top belt sander will get the same results for around 400-450 dollars less... 
and heat will always be an issue for some...


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## Phil Dalton (May 12, 2009)

I am not a sharpening guru by any means. I have the Grizzly 8" knockoff of the Tomek sharpener (Grizzly also has a 10") which I am happy with. It cost a bit less than $100 if I remember correctly.
Phil


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## Gerry Kiernan (Jul 19, 2007)

IC31 said:


> I tried a search here but came up with nothing much.
> 
> My tool sharpening skills are below sub par (and that's being nice to myself). Yesterday I tried to sharpen a block plane iron - so now let's just say it's better but that's not saying much. A while back I bought a set of small DMT diamond 'stones' and so far have not been overjoyed with their performance other then putting a better edge on my Swiss army knife. I've spent some time on the 'net - no clue as to how many different stones there are, but it has to be in the dozens if not more. There are machines 'guaranteed' to be the best way along with motor driven wheels and different kinds of guides that keep the correct angles on a wheel or even a bench stone ..... well you get the idea.
> 
> My dilemma - plane irons, chisels from small carving size to about 2 inches wide, my pocket knives and of course SWMBO's Wusthoff kitchen set. Is there a common denominator, a good method or even good sharpening devices like my Drill Doctor (that works nicely once I figured it out).


Lee Valley tools puts out a book on sharpening tools that is an excellent guide. It is by Taunton press. Can't remember the exact name, but it has sharpening in it.

Gerry


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## Gerry Kiernan (Jul 19, 2007)

old55 said:


> I agree with Stick re the Veritas® Mk.II Honing Guide. Great product for a mug like me.


I also have their honing guide. It is very well built and accurate. I have used it to sharpen most of my plane blades and chisels.

Gerry

For most of my sharpening I use wet/dry abrasive papers starting at about 120 grit, and going all the way up to 2000 grit, using a flat surface such as a piece of glass. WD40, or any light oil makes a good lubricant. This is a very inexpensive way to sharpen blades to a razor edge. For really badly abused blades I start with a bench mounted belt sander to get rid of the damaged edge.

Gerry


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Gerry Kiernan said:


> Lee Valley tools puts out a book on sharpening tools that is an excellent guide. It is by Taunton press. Can't remember the exact name, but it has sharpening in it.
> 
> Gerry



The Complete Guide to Sharpening - Woodworking
by Leonard Lee

Lee Valley Tools


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Books - above I said that I have a couple of books from the library on reserve - Lee Valley and Lie -Nielson's and will purchase which I think best for me.

I guess I hadn't considered using my belt sander as the beginning way to at least true up an edge then go from there. It isn't a bench top but I do have a rig to use it that way - and have used it for many things including smoothing the edges of pieces of glass.. Might be an idea to fab up an angled tool rest and give it a try.

That Sorby machine looks like it could quickly put a real dent in your life savings but sure does look like the tool to have for a pro shop or even a high end hobby woodworker.

I've seen a couple suggestions to use water stones - are they any better in your opinion(s) then an oil stone? I have an ancient Carborundum brand oil stone, but is not really in good enough shape to do more then a touch up on a pocket knife. It really doesn't make any difference to me now as I'll be starting with completely new 'stuff', but a it's a point of discussion and opinions


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I'm using old tech. A half inch piece of glass and sandpaper grits up to 2000. Use a sharpening guide and measure the angle by how far the edge of the blade is from the guide's edge. Also have a fine diamond stone for quick touchups - 3-5 passes does the job. Very happy with this method. The Veritas guide looks nice and precise though. Had a carpenter friend who said my chisels were the sharpest he'd ever used. I just don't use chisels and hand planes enough to justify the cost of a machine.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I have an expensive water stone, 1000 grit, and I don't remember the last time I bothered to use it. When they are out of flat you need a diamond stone to true them up so you might as well just use a diamond stone in my opinion. they are faster and they stay dead flat until they wear out. Here are a couple of cheap options for diamond stones. I've used both types and either one gets the job done but you can't sharpen all router bits with the 4 in 1 type. Also the set of 3 doesn't have the green colored stone in it and it is a fine grade.
Diamond Hone Block Kitchen Blade Sharpening Stone Sharpener Whetstone 6"X2"X2" | eBay
3pcs 2"x6" Kit Thin Flat Diamond Stone Sharpeners Fine Coarse Grit 240 600 1000 | eBay

I have some of these and they also work well and won't break the bank. Lee Valley Tools - Important Announcement These are the final and maybe most important step I think. Lee Valley Tools - Important Announcement Lee Valley Tools - Important Announcement They used to sell one that was about 3 1/2" in diameter for a drill but I don't see it anymore. I have one and they are very handy when you can't get back to your large wheel. Maybe you can find one. It was only a few dollars and lasts for years but much trickier to use than a wheel on a arbor.

Like Phil I have learned to sharpen by eye and a steady hand but the Veritas guide is considered the Cadillac of guides. I am fussy about how sharp the edge is but I've never been fussy about the angle but I did buy myself the brass bevel gauge for Christmas so maybe that will change. I do have the grinding jig Lee Valley Tools - Important Announcement for the occasional truing up and getting back to a hollow ground edge. If you buy one of these remember to get a Norton white soft bond wheel to use with it. 

You can spend huge sums of money on sharpening but you don't need to.


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## waynecochran (Aug 2, 2011)

For those of you that have a Worksharp 3000, check out stumpynubs.com. I made the fixture he has for the 3000 and It works really well. His vids are informative and entertaining.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Might as well go all in...
> Diamond Grinding Wheels 6 inch Lapidary Diamond Grinding Wheels[/QUOTEcently
> Ren
> 
> ...


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## whimsofchaz (Jun 6, 2013)

You asked one of the questions that will have more answers than almost any other thing you could have asked. Since you are looking up things in the library see if you can get a copy of Ron Hock's "Perfect Edge" He goes through most of the available methods for sharpening. He also makes after market plane blades. You can buy a copy at HOCK TOOLS -- Blades and Such for Planes and More I got my copy from a book exchange for $3.50

I use a 1000g DMT diamond stone and a 16000g ceramic for all my blades and chisels. If starting from a rough edge I start with 200g and work through 400-600g sandpaper before using the DMT stone. The only reason I use the DMT is it is fast. I also own a Mk II from Lee Valley and swear by it. Doing it with my hands instead of a machine gives me satisfaction however some day your blades will need to be reground. You will eventually have to get a bench grinder. Hope this helps

Chuck


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I have an expensive water stone, 1000 grit, and I don't remember the last time I bothered to use it. When they are out of flat you need a diamond stone to true them up


Nope. All you need is a flat surface and and some drywall sanding mesh, believe me



Cherryville Chuck said:


> Like Phil I have learned to sharpen by eye and a steady hand but the Veritas guide is considered the Cadillac of guides


It's also over-priced for a beginner IMHO



Cherryville Chuck said:


> You can spend huge sums of money on sharpening but you don't need to.


I agree - it's like learning to plane wood - a Lie-Nielsen plane is nice, but learning to do things _properly_ from base principles yields _far better results in the long term_ regardless of what you are usng. You can't just throw money at everything and expect results in the same way......

Regards

Phil


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*My method...*



gerry kiernan said:


> i also have their honing guide. It is very well built and accurate. I have used it to sharpen most of my plane blades and chisels.
> 
> Gerry
> 
> ...


+1


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Phil P said:


> I agree - it's like learning to plane wood - a Lie-Nielsen plane is nice, but learning to do things _properly_ from base principles yields _far better results in the long term_ regardless of what you are usng. You can't just throw money at everything and expect results in the same way......
> 
> Regards
> 
> Phil


+1

its important to know what your doing, why your doing it...then learn how to do it properly and what to expect with each step along the way. There are any number of methods that will yield outstanding results when done correctly.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Dave



IC31 said:


> That Sorby machine looks like it could quickly put a real dent in your life savings but sure does look like the tool to have for a pro shop or even a high end hobby woodworker.


I wasn't recommending it, _per se_, just trying to show that there are alternatives to the Tormek _et al_. The Sorby is the nearest I've seen to some of the stuff used by tool makers, but I wouldn't have one - just too pricey. A belt sander on it's back isn't a substitute, either, because they do have a tendency to dub over the corners (no good on rebate plabe irons) and as Stick hints at they can easily overheat tools, just like a bench grinder. They also can't do final polishing of a bevel because the grits are just too coarse. In any case you can't get jigs for them, unlike a a Sorby, Stick......



IC31 said:


> I've seen a couple suggestions to use water stones - are they any better in your opinion(s) then an oil stone?


Most waterstones need to be either kept permanently immersed in water, or need to be soaked for 20 to 30 minutes before use. They are soft, so they hollow easily, which means that the do need to be flattened from time to time - which takes something like a sheet of float glass or a flat granite cutting board and some drywall sanding mesh (yes you can buy a $300 lapping plate - but why bother?). This isn't an issue, just something you need to be aware of if you follow that path

Regards

Phil


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I have used water and oil stones and I only bother with the diamond stones. They stay flat forever and even the cheap ones I linked will get you on the way to scary sharp.I find they work better with some water on them. They won't get you all the way there, you need something for the final honing which is why I like the wheel and green honing compound but if you use the micro fine abrasives from Lee Valley I've gone to scary sharp using them.
So a set of cheap diamond stones for $20 or less and a few different sheets of micro fine paper at around $3.50 a sheet and for $30 you can sharpen blades sharp enough to shave the hair off you arm if you take the time and effort to learn how.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

I use a piece of scrap granite counter top for my sharpening. If you are looking for a cheap source try a local counter top shop they cut out the sink that's scrap


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Scary Sharp works for me.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

I got the Leonard Lee book, "The Complete Guide to Sharpening" from the library yesterday. I haven't had a chance to do much more then cherry pick a few pages, but it is impressive in content. It is a little bit dated (1994) as far as some of the sharpening tools he uses, but he does define 'sharp' with high resolution micro photographs. He also shows how to sharpen common as well as odd-ball tools but doesn't spend much space on pocket and kitchen knives. Amazon has a couple attractively priced used versions one of which I'll probably purchase. One tool that I might just invest a few bucks on is a bench belt sander. I've needed one many times and this is just one more excuse errr.... reason to spend my discretionary dollars:dance3:

I'm waiting on the Lie-Nielsen book now.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Was at a friends the other day and used is Work Sharp to sharpen my chisels. Did a great job on them.. some were bought used and looked as tho they were use to cut nails with.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

BrianS said:


> Was at a friends the other day and used is Work Sharp to sharpen my chisels. Did a great job on them.. some were bought used and looked as tho they were use to cut nails with.


I have to 'assume' you mean the Work Sharp WS3000 wheel version. Looks like a good way to go but overkill for my needs. Thanks


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

IC31 said:


> I have to 'assume' you mean the Work Sharp WS3000 wheel version. Looks like a good way to go but overkill for my needs. Thanks


Yes Dave, that is the one. I'm not sure I could justify the expense of it either for a "once in a while" use, but it sure does a nice job. I wish I had taken before and after pics, some of these chisels were pretty bad. Had to take 2 of them to the grinder initially to get them close enough to properly sharpen them.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

*My sharpening station*

I built a pull out shelf under my mortising machine. I set it at 30" so I can sit and sharpen. Across the front is a 5 " wide granite counter top scrap. There are 3 grits of wet dry paper taped to the granite. 340, 400, 800. There is a HF diamond hone and a Trend Diamond hone 300/1000 grit. the pan, sponge and water bottle are for cleaning up the paper and hones Also shown is my veritas sharpening guide and my oil stone. 

I chose this method because i can sharpen anything from kitchen knives to an axe. It was inexpensive 250 total cost (Trend hone and veritas guide) and sandpaper


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

A quick 'book report' and I'm sure most of you recall that ordeal in English class

I've read much of the two books mentioned way above by Leonard Lee and Thomas Lie-Nielsen. Both are excellent and are worthy for any book shelf and to be used as necessary for sharpening almost any tool or cutting device in the shop or home. The Lee book gets into the theoretical and why much deeper while the Lie-Nielsen book seems to get right into sharpening tools. Both, and it's my opinion only, do spend way too much space on sharpening Japanese type tools. I'm not sure most home hobby or even commercial shops have many of that kind of tool. Interesting, yes, but about the only Japanese type tool I'll ever own is a draw saw. Both books draw about the same conclusions as far as what's needed - bench grinder with appropriate wheels, a 1" belt sander and a zillion bucks worth of your choice of water or oil stones plus a honing device such as the Veritas (both agreed it's a good tool). There was some mention of diamond stones, but the 1992 Lee book has few references while the 2004 or thereabouts Lie-Nielsen spends a bit more space. I have a set of small ones for my pocket knives and have to say that the jury is still deliberating as the corners of those stones have scratched a couple blades.

Looks like I'll need to spend some time looking for a decent 1" belt sander or possibly build one plus count my pennies and splurge for a set 3 of 2-3" X 7-8" stones. And of course, purchase on of these books


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Maybe not for everyone, but the turners at our wood guild swear by the hard diamond drum...
diamond-grinding-wheel.com


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Maybe not for everyone, but the turners at our wood guild swear by the hard diamond drum...
> diamond-grinding-wheel.com



Kinda why I feel the jury for me is still deliberating. I'll probably never need a diamond wheel, but they do look interesting.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I think the water stones are faster cutting than oil and easier to true up. I have a good water stone that I rarely use. Diamonds are faster and more durable than water and don't require any special storage requirements and the cheap sets are cheaper than a water stone. The finest grade I've seen of diamond stone is 1200 grit. You'll need finer than that if you want razor sharp. Some wet or dry carbide sandpaper to 2500 or 3000 will come close. You can get water stones to 8000 grit but they are pricey.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I think the water stones are faster cutting than oil and easier to true up. I have a good water stone that I rarely use. Diamonds are faster and more durable than water and don't require any special storage requirements and the cheap sets are cheaper than a water stone. The finest grade I've seen of diamond stone is 1200 grit. You'll need finer than that if you want razor sharp. Some wet or dry carbide sandpaper to 2500 or 3000 will come close. You can get water stones to 8000 grit but they are pricey.


I understand what you are saying with the water stones - but the oil stones supposedly don't need truing as often nor do they need to be soaked for a time before use. For me, it really wont make a difference tho I really like what Norton is offering except how costly they are for a set of three:fie:.

DMT look to have an 8000 grit diamond bench sharpener in both 6 and 8 inch.

I have been using Norton Black Magic wet and dry paper in 1000 and 2000 grit for final sharpening of my pocket knives and a touch up of my Lie-Nielsen block plane iron


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

IC31 said:


> I understand what you are saying with the water stones - but the oil stones supposedly don't need truing as often nor do they need to be soaked for a time before use.


Hi Dave

Not all water stones are equal, for example Shapton ceramic glass stones only need a spritz or two of water on them before use.

I still wouldn't recommend those water stones to a beginner though, because of the need for periodic truing, just like any other water stone

Regards

Phil


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Phil P said:


> Hi Dave
> 
> Not all water stones are equal, for example Shapton ceramic glass stones only need a spritz or two of water on them before use.
> 
> ...


Phil, I did see those while doing some 'net wandering for acceptable bench stones and they sure look like a viable product though 

I'm not sure how those would be trued, being as tough as they are, being ceramic - and the Shapton website isn't much help.

I'll probably get a 3 stone kit, brand yet to be determined but Norton is in the lead right now


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