# Direct mount of router (no plate)



## Packard (Jan 23, 2010)

I'm going to make a new table top router table. I want to keep it fairly light and I was planning on using hardwood ply for the top (3/4" thick).

Rather than using a mounting plate, I was thinking of reducing the thickness of the mounting area (underneath) with my router to 3/8" thickness and mouting the router directly to the table top. This would seem to me to eliminate any leveling issues and sounds like about the same amount of work.

Has anyone done this? Am I overlooking any issues?

The router I am planning to mount is a Hitachi M12V plunge router. I plan on using it to make raised panel doors and cope and stick rails and stiles.

Thanks for looking.

Regards,

Packard


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I would mount a plate in the table for what you intend to build with it. The panel bit would could be as big as 3-1/2" in diameter. So you would have to have an opening to accommodate the bit. That's a large opening. Having a plate would allow you to use reducer rings for the smaller bits such as the rail & stile bits or flush trim bits. Running a small bit in a big opening would be dangerous & could ruin your material from lack of support around the bit.


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## Packard (Jan 23, 2010)

I have access to 1/4" thick aluminum plates. I think I'll go with that for the mounting plate.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Yes, I have always mounted my routers that way, without mounting plate, (before installing them on lift). Here is a PDF document (in French)
Greetings


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I will 2nd. James post, by the way Alum.plate is a no no,the Alum.will put marks on the stock and it's a PITA to get them off. 

Why would you mount the router without using a plate, you can still pop it out and use it for a hand router,plus you can use the router table for other jobs not just one of them in the shop.


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

The first table I made was 1975, my first year teaching. I made it portable so the kids could take it to their bench/vise. It was plywood with a 3/8" relief for the direct mounting of an old Stanley router. They were still using it when I left there after 8 years. I replaced the top once because they wore completely through the top laminate and the router a couple of times.
Dan


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> I will 2nd. James post, by the way Alum.plate is a no no,the Alum.will put marks on the stock and it's a PITA to get them off.
> 
> Why would you mount the router without using a plate, you can still pop it out and use it for a hand router,plus you can use the router table for other jobs not just one of them in the shop.
> 
> ...


With this system i can take of my router for hand router or changing the bit in 3 seconds. Go and see the PDF file, you can see that it is very easy because the router is not fixed no way. It stay only with his weight. This way, you do no loose length of bit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Santé

I did the same thing, but it's a small router ,but it can take on the brass guides (1 3/16 and the 1 1/2" ), see below , but it has a plate not sq. true one but a plate ..

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/4883-small-router-table.html

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Santé said:


> With this system i can take of my router for hand router or changing the bit in 3 seconds. Go and see the PDF file, you can see that it is very easy because the router is not fixed no way. It stay only with his weight. This way, you do no loose length of bit.


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## schmelifox2 (Jan 20, 2010)

My first table was a piece of plywood with a hole in the middle then the router was mounted to a piece of 1/4" hardboard that laminated over the top. The hardboard was cheap and slippery.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Santé
> 
> I did the same thing, but it's a small router ,but it can take on the brass guides (1 3/16 and the 1 1/2" ), see below , but it has a plate not sq. true one but a plate ..
> 
> ...


OK, I have seen. I also mounted a big router in this way but after I mounted on a lift. This is more better !

Santé


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## Router Rog (Jan 28, 2010)

If you do decide to go with a direct mount to the underside of your table top, I would suggest you hinge your table top. That way when you need to change the depth of your router bit or change out to a different router bit you dont have to remove/disconnect your router from your table top. You just lift the table top up via the hinge making your router accessable to any adjustments.


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## jbert (Feb 20, 2010)

In building my own table, I started out with not using a plate. I have since changed to installing a 3/8" plate. Pretty cheap and just one quick inset edge to rout and thats it.


Good luck


Jim


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