# Boring 5mm shelf pin holes



## stevesie (Mar 4, 2010)

I recently upgraded to Bosch 1617EVSPK. My first project is to bore 5mm shelf pin holes. My plan is to build a plywood jig consisting of a line of 5/8” holes spaced 32mm on center. To bore, I would mount a 5/8” template guide with a 5mm boring bit. I’m hoping for a recommendation for: (1) a good to very good BRASS template guide set, (2) a clear acrylic base plate replacement that will accommodate template guides (so I can see what I’m doing) and (3) a 2 flute solid carbide bit that will bore a clean 5mm (shelf pin) hole.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

stevesie said:


> I recently upgraded to Bosch 1617EVSPK. My first project is to bore 5mm shelf pin holes. My plan is to build a plywood jig consisting of a line of 5/8” holes spaced 32mm on center. To bore, I would mount a 5/8” template guide with a 5mm boring bit. I’m hoping for a recommendation for: (1) a good to very good BRASS template guide set, (2) a clear acrylic base plate replacement that will accommodate template guides (so I can see what I’m doing) and (3) a 2 flute solid carbide bit that will bore a clean 5mm (shelf pin) hole.


Hi Steve - welcome to the forum.
Well, sounds like you have a plan. I do 'em the same way except I make the template from 1/4" MDF and rip it down the middle of the holes to give me two templates. 
For template guides:
Router Accessories - 10-Piece Brass Template Guide Kit
These are short barrel guys, .201 so the 1/4" MDf works well. Same place will get you a universal base plate. They carry several so look around.
Try here for the bit:
MLCS solid carbide router bits
I would recommend the spiral downcut, #5170.
Hope this helps


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Steve

I would suggest you copy the jig from Rockler but use a 1" holes in the plastic and use the #5150 bit from MLCS you want the chips to come out of the holes..
I made a copy and did the same thing and it works great  the stop edge block can be moved to one or the other side of the jig for a left or right side work on the cabinet , but I just flip the jig over I'm lazy.

And I use 1/4" pins most of the time..

The clear plastic will let you see whats going on plus you can use it for the other sizes, just by using a dif. bit quick and easy..

JIG IT® Shelving Jig - Rockler Woodworking Tools

I also put in some slots for key hole work in the same jig,1" wide also.one jig for many jobs..

Router Forums - View Single Post - Hanging Slot Template
Router Forums

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stevesie said:


> I recently upgraded to Bosch 1617EVSPK. My first project is to bore 5mm shelf pin holes. My plan is to build a plywood jig consisting of a line of 5/8” holes spaced 32mm on center. To bore, I would mount a 5/8” template guide with a 5mm boring bit. I’m hoping for a recommendation for: (1) a good to very good BRASS template guide set, (2) a clear acrylic base plate replacement that will accommodate template guides (so I can see what I’m doing) and (3) a 2 flute solid carbide bit that will bore a clean 5mm (shelf pin) hole.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the RouterForums Steve. Glad to have join us.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Like your jig Bob. I wish I'd thought of that when I got mine. I use a similar system but got mine made on a CNC machine at a sign maker.

I use stub drills rather than router bits. They are much cheaper.
Dormer Stub Drill Bits for Drilling Machines

Funny, when I Googled that, only UK suppliers showed. Maybe you call them something else Stateside. They are like a twist drill but with a much shorter cutting edge, so are not only shorter than standard drills, they are much more rigid. Useful when the hole isn't going to be very deep and when you are stuck for headroom in a drill press. Popular in engineering circles, but rarely seen in big box places.

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Thanks 

I call them stubby drill bits or machine drill bits, I use them all the time when I want the drill bit to drill true, they don't bend over like the jobber size.
I like to use them when putting a nylon plug in the threads for a locking device, the norm for me is the 1/8" stubby bit and a 6-32 nylon screw,I just tap the screw in the hole and cut it off and with a touch on the belt sand it's a locking screw or lock nut...
at one time I would use up about 50 bits a day  when drilling tons of socket cap screws and socket set screws...


http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-2320-Metal-Stubby-Drill/dp/B001JEOIHW
http://www.amazon.com/Chicago-Latro...ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1267888191&sr=1-2
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istracpsboss said:


> Like your jig Bob. I wish I'd thought of that when I got mine. I use a similar system but got mine made on a CNC machine at a sign maker.
> 
> I use stub drills rather than router bits. They are much cheaper.
> Dormer Stub Drill Bits for Drilling Machines
> ...


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Ouch ! I know Chicago Latrobe are a good brand, but that is dear. Mine were surplus ones from a firm that would buy up the stores when an engineering firm closed down. There was a lot of that 20yrs ago. 
I've stub, 4 facet, long series, fast helix (for ally), LH - useful for drilling out screws, slow helix for brass, so they don't snatch, Letter, Number, Fractional, Metric and Taper shank metric (for my small lathe tailstock)all from decent manufacturers and the whole lot didn't cost me 50 bucks. A sad time for the engineering industry, but a fantastic opportunity for people like us.

Cheers

Peter


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Hi all

You can making yourself this jig It is simple to make and do the job verry well

http://www.lescopeaux.asso.fr/Techniques/clic.php3?url=Docs/Sante_Percer_Des_Trous.pdf

I made more than 3000 holes in 1 day with them.

Santé


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## stevesie (Mar 4, 2010)

Hi back to John, Bob, Doc, Peter and Daniel! Thank you all for the welcome and the quick response to my inquiry. The jig ideas are very helpful and address the concern I had about how to clear chips out of the "drilled" holes. I was thinking a downshear 2 flute bit used to cut only pin holes might have trouble. In the wee hours of the morning I found another posting where a user kindly posted photo's of how he copied his base out of clear acrylic. All these post have given me the idea to visit a plastic shop and pick up material for both the jig and the base in clear acrylic. Any more ideas on bit choices and links are appreciated.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

stevesie said:


> Hi back to John, Bob, Doc, Peter and Daniel! Thank you all for the welcome and the quick response to my inquiry. The jig ideas are very helpful and address the concern I had about how to clear chips out of the "drilled" holes. I was thinking a downshear 2 flute bit used to cut only pin holes might have trouble. In the wee hours of the morning I found another posting where a user kindly posted photo's of how he copied his base out of clear acrylic. All these post have given me the idea to visit a plastic shop and pick up material for both the jig and the base in clear acrylic. Any more ideas on bit choices and links are appreciated.


Hi Steve, I think ya gonna do OK. Spiral bit is really the way to go though, either upcut or downcut. I use downcut to minimize any chipout on the top surface but the chips can be a bear to get out. Bob recommended an upcut which will handle that no problem. It depends on the material you're using. Good Luck


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Santé said:


> Hi all
> 
> You can making yourself this jig It is simple to make and do the job verry well
> 
> ...


Interesting, Daniel. Combining that with mine would speed up the router alignment for each hole. We tend to focus on getting the hole in the right place, but when you have many holes to make, reducing the time for alignment is a good idea.

Cheers

Peter


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I dunno guys, a little or a lot.
I do OK with this jig that only took about 30 min to make. Most of that was marking the holes and drilling them. The one pictured is for a different job with 2-3/8" spacing but I have a similar one with 32 mm spacing. If I were doing a HUGE number I would likely pin an edge guide to it but overall works pretty good.:yes4:


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

I's seen one something similar and was trying to remember where. The half hole idea is a good one for quick alignment. Obviously instead of trying to line up the guide bush with the holes, as on mine, you can just run it along and nip it in each time.

When I did mine, I thought it was a really good design, with pin adjustable settings for the distance from the edge. I now wish I'd incorporated Bob's idea for using the spare space on it for lock and hinge templates and yours for quicker utilisation !

Cheers

Peter


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

istracpsboss said:


> I's seen one something similar and was trying to remember where. The half hole idea is a good one for quick alignment. Obviously instead of trying to line up the guide bush with the holes, as on mine, you can just run it along and nip it in each time.
> 
> When I did mine, I thought it was a really good design, with pin adjustable settings for the distance from the edge. I now wish I'd incorporated Bob's idea for using the spare space on it for lock and hinge templates and yours for quicker utilisation !
> 
> ...


Peter - isn't that what forums are all about??


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Hi,

When the first hole is drilled, you press down the lever, the pin goes up
and you can move the router. You release the lever in advancing the set and the pin falls automatically into the next hole and you drill the second hole and so on.

Cheers
Daniel


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

I went old school this weekend with some pegboard, a center punch and a drill.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Daniel

It looks like you love jigs also 
Take some time and check out John's web pages, I'm sure you will enjoy it like I do..
John is a member of the forum and has posted some great jigs and projects 

Motorized Router Lift

http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Loose-Tenon-Joinery.aspx

Welcome To Eagle Lake Woodworking

Eagle Lake - Projects

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Santé said:


> Hi,
> 
> When the first hole is drilled, you press down the lever, the pin goes up
> and you can move the router. You release the lever in advancing the set and the pin falls automatically into the next hole and you drill the second hole and so on.
> ...


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Daniel
> 
> It looks like you love jigs also
> Take some time and check out John's web pages, I'm sure you will enjoy it like I do..
> ...


Oh, yes i like making jig more than working with them :yes4:
Thanks for the links, i puted them in my favorits, i will see all ! 
The motorized lift super !

Santé


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