# Do I need a router plate for my new table?



## Ryan's Dad (Jan 14, 2005)

First of all, I have more theoretical knowledge than experience. So far, my craftsmanship hasn't measured up to my standards for precision.

My shop is in my basement. I have a PC 890 - currently have a Rockler MDF table with Rockler 1/4" alum. plate. I have a Incra positioning jig and I want to get into dovetail and box joinery, and hope that I can get good enough with making them to justify upgrading to an LS next winter. Generally, I leave my router on the table - I don't really use it "freehand" - even though I have an extra base.

I have always had trouble getting the router plate flushed all to the table all the way around. I can get the corners flush, but the the center of the plate is out of flush. I finally figured out that my MDF table has an ever so slight warp to it - probably due to regular humidity in my area. I was able to get it to flatten with the use of angle iron stretchers under the table but that interfered with the lock lever on my router - repositioning them brought back the warp. I have finally decided it's time I build my own table top with baltic birch plywood and plastic laminate (both sides). 

My end goal is to have a perfectly flat, perfectly flush table, and I am afraid that I will not be satisfied with the flushness of any router plate - I've never gotten mine to work right so I can't imagine one ever working to my satisfaction. Here's my idea:

I'm thinking of making the router table with a lamination of 3/4" and 1/2" BB plywood and then plam on both sides. I would cut the 3/4" sheet to the rough size of the router base plate so I could mount the router directly to the bottom of the 1/2" plywood on the top. I think the 3/4" plywood will provide good support, and I think the 1/2" plywood will be thin enough so I don't think I will miss the depth. This way I can avoid using a plate that will need to be leveled, and I'll be able to slide by the bit absolutely flush to the table top with no hang-ups or bumps. I can drill out holes on the top to insert the PC 890 height adjuster tool and adjust height like that, and I usually change the bits from above the table. Long and the short of it, I don't think I will miss not having a router plate.

The only drawback I see is I probably won't be able to use bushings because I'm not betting on being able to size the hole perfectly and then there's the problem of getting the hole absolutely perfect. I think I might be able to live with that.

I'm also thinking of drilling out dust evac holes in the table top ala the Oak Park router Vac-plate.

Do my plans make sense? Would mounting the router directly to the table like I described work? Would I be better off by using a router plate? Was my bad experience out of the ordinary? 

The cost of a good plate (Oak-Park Vacu- plate) isn't that bad - probably less than the extra sheet of 1/2" BB plywood.

Your advice is appreciated.

Thanks,

Chris (Ryan's Dad)


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the RouterForums Chris. Thank you for joining our community.


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## xvimbi (Sep 29, 2009)

What you are describing is a standard way of making router table tops. More commonly, though, both sheets would be MDF, and they would be laminated to reduce friction and protect the wood from absorbing moisture.

I have tried twice to get a perfectly flat top this way, and I have failed. I am not saying it's not possible, but it is difficult. Living in North Carolina, the humidity changes are substantial; perhaps it's that in my case, or it's just my lack of skills. In the end, I did also get a Rockler table (just to get it over with), and I am dealing with the same issues you are describing. I also mounted a frame underneath. It's still not perfect, but I think I can live with it. 

If you look around, you'll find that many people are struggling with getting their plates absolutely flush. There are plates that are cupped by design. All this tells me that one can live with such tolerances - in most cases.

If you really want to get a flat table you'll probably have to look at some material other than wood. Phenolic or cast iron come to mind. Humidity won't affect those. Other than that, a mounting plate that's as small as possible might be an option. There are circular plates available that are just slightly larger than the normal base plates routers com with. You could give that a try, but you'll still have to start out with a flat table top.

Good luck! MM


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## sarumokikaraochiru74 (Jun 15, 2010)

What is the easiest way to determine if the table is flush?


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## xvimbi (Sep 29, 2009)

sarumokikaraochiru74 said:


> What is the easiest way to determine if the table is flush?


Take a piece of wood, your finger, a metal square, etc. and slide it from the table onto the plate from all directions. If it snags, the plate is too high. Then slide the piece from the plate onto the table. If it snags, the plate is too low. MM


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Chris:

Ok, I'm going to be the devil's advocate here and stick my foot into it.

What is the function of the router base plate and what is the function of the table?

The base plate keeps the router at 90 degrees to the work piece. The table top supports the router base plate and provides _some_ support to over-sized work pieces. There are several things to consider: is your work piece perfectly square and true? Probably not. Wood moves as much as 1/16" over 12" of width but over it's length, movement is almost negligible. If you joint a piece of wood, the moisture content of the core of the block begins to change and the structure of the block changes accordingly. Your table is going to move. It is made of man-made materials. Steel will move with temperature, wood with temperature and humidity. Unprotected MDF will also prove unreliable over time. 

Are your workpieces large enough to require the additional support of the table? It is possible that feather boards on a tall fence and on the table surface will be better for your requirements than a micro-adjusting fence and perfectly aligned table top and base plate? Alternatively, it may be more efficient to use the stock handles and a bit with a bearing, or even an edge guide.

I find OakPark's base plate quite adequate for anything up to 36" long and it's only 11" square. Any longer and I change to my torsion table and use edge guides, straight edges or bearings.

I'm redesigning my tables to be one base with 3 interchangeable tops and the torsion table. Maybe by next winter, I'll have some results of how effective they are.


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## kimotee (Jan 12, 2010)

Guys - noting the comment about humidity, I'm in Hawaii on the windward side of Oahu - lots of salt, lots of humidity. It's fun at the beach, but not much fun for the tools. Although I've been involved in construction for about 50 years, router table work hasn't been something I've done much of over the years. I use a hand-held, big Hitachi for making stair hand railings, etc., but now it's crunch time for doing some custom molding, and am contemplating building my own router table, but buying a top since it looks like phenolic is the best choice. Anybody have a good recommendation on tops?


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## barking spider (Dec 26, 2010)

My very first router table was an old office desk. It had a 1.5" top with plastic laminate. I drilled a hole in the center and drilled a few more holes for my router plate. I routed a couple grooves for my fence to slide in. That desk was very flat and gave me years of good service. But it was a pain in the butt when it came time to change bits, etc. The 30x60 was probably overkill too.
I finally got a plate and installed it in my table saw extension table. The plate makes a lot of things so much easier, but is not absolutely necessary.

That said, I am in the process of making a stand alone router table. My table saw extension table has got a slight dip in it where the router plate is.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

The simple solution is to cut the rabbet for the plate slightly deeper than the thickness of the plate, and then install leveling screws from the bottom side. One way of doing this is to install threaded brass inserts, and use machine screws with lock nuts on the bottom side. That, of course, means the rabbet for the plate needs to be wide enough for the installation of the threaded insert and still be strong enough to hold it.


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

I don't know much but Pat Warner seems to and he has an article someplace titled "Why I don't like router insert plates" or something like that.

The Router Table

KR


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## Falegname (Nov 26, 2007)

*Router table insert*

While the subject is router table inserts/plates, what is the best way to get the plate flush with table? End-to-end? Side_to_side? Diagonally across opposite corners? My first try I raised one end to flush and the other was down. Raised that end and the other end was down. Frustrating. Thanks.


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Here is what Warner said about inserts. They are probably a good thing though.

KR:big_boss:

Can one put these little yellow faces in email and things like that? I like them in a way.:big_boss:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI KR

Yes , you can use a url link in your email,link below

http://www.routerforums.com/images/smilies/yes4.gif
http://www.routerforums.com/images/smilies/big_boss.gif

Just right click on the icon (select Prop.) you want to use and copy and paste the url address call in your email, or you can make a new folder on your desk top and keep them on hand..

BUT you can only see them if you are on net..


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Kelly Rittgers said:


> Here is what Warner said about inserts. They are probably a good thing though.
> 
> KR:big_boss:
> 
> Can one put these little yellow faces in email and things like that? I like them in a way.:big_boss:


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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

Thanks.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Your Welcome KR

You can also use your Key Pad and the Alt. key to insert a item (face) in your post or emails..just hit the NumLock key and hold down the Alt.key and hit a number on the key pad..like below

☺ ☻ ♥ ♦ ♪ ♫ ▼ ▲ ¼ ½ and so on........the laptop needs the F2 key and the numbers on the keyboard.not the normal numbers the ones next to the letter keys.. 


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Kelly Rittgers said:


> Thanks.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Kelly Rittgers said:


> Here is what Warner said about inserts. They are probably a good thing though.


I have great respect for Pat, and highly recommend his precision and offset clear bases. He points out, however, that "routing" is highly personal, so different designs and approaches are appropriate. He doesn't like plates, and that's fine for him. Others who prefer plates use them, and deal with the trade-offs in different ways.


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## Carl Franklin (Sep 16, 2011)

xvimbi said:


> [snip] ... Living in North Carolina, the humidity changes are substantial; perhaps it's that in my case, or it's just my lack of skills.


I guess being in Utah has some real advantages, then. It's mid-September, 74F with 33% humidity, and that's only because we're getting some rain. Normally, in the summer we have humidity down around 10% or lower. So swelling is not an issue; however, getting dry rot sure can be. :moil:

My first experiment with a router table worked okay. I took a scrap piece of 3/4 MDF and put it on a used metal frame I had. I then cut my hole in the top and put a small chamfer around the edge. The router "plate" was a leftover piece of industrial plastic (lexan type) that I had used in another project. I simply cut the plastic to fit, lined up the holes for the router base, and gave it all a shot. Worked okay, but definitely not a professional job. 

For what it's worth, I used the chamfer cut simply because it allowed me to cut slightly larger at the top and then let the plastic settle into place. I found, though, that it was about 1/32nd inch too low, so I made small shims to put under it. Seemed to work okay. I think part of the reason is that I made the plastic plate only slightly large than the actual router, so with a long piece the drop was less noticeable. 



> If you look around, you'll find that many people are struggling with getting their plates absolutely flush. There are plates that are cupped by design. All this tells me that one can live with such tolerances - in most cases.


I kind of agree. So far there's been nothing that I've cut that had a problem because of the slight drop between table top and router plate. Since I don't suffer from the humidity issue I will hopefully be able to better adapt what I've made in the future. The plan is to use this initial table as my template for building a better one as I progress. 



> If you really want to get a flat table you'll probably have to look at some material other than wood. Phenolic or cast iron come to mind.


Thanks for the advise.


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