# Drawer plans?



## L Town Graphics (May 24, 2012)

Does anyone have some easy drawer plans? I have one on a cabnit that is on its last leg I'd love to replace. FYI I don't have a dovetail jig nor am I interested in trying to make one. Looking for easy and clean


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## WayneMahler (May 17, 2012)

Dan
Probably the easiest and cleanest way would be to make your measurements, and use butt joints for the sides and front and back. Cut the slots for the drawer bottom and assemble the basic box with glue and a few brads. Not the strongest but quick and easy. If you want stronger corner joints you may want to take some time and use half lap joints or finger joints. If you use the butt joints, I would suggest using gussets under the drawer bottom for added strength. Hope this helps.


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

Reinforcing the butt joints with dowels is another easy way to improve their strength.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

This link offers a neat trick using a slot cutter 
Drawer Joinery Using A Slot Cutter : One Great Tip


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## pretender74 (May 27, 2011)

I'm sure you can find just what you are looking for On You Tube.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Rabbet the front of the drawer the depth of what you are using for the sides so that the sides will be flush. Route the bottom of the sides so that you can slide a piece of wood in for a new bottom. Put this together and then measure the distance of the back inside and cut a piece of wood to fit (inside). Route this back piece out on the bottom just as you did with the sides. Nail your sides to the front, slide the bottom in and then attach your back. You could probably use your old drawer parts to make a new one.


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## L Town Graphics (May 24, 2012)

mgmine said:


> Rabbet the front of the drawer the depth of what you are using for the sides so that the sides will be flush. Route the bottom of the sides so that you can slide a piece of wood in for a new bottom. Put this together and then measure the distance of the back inside and cut a piece of wood to fit (inside). Route this back piece out on the bottom just as you did with the sides. Nail your sides to the front, slide the bottom in and then attach your back. You could probably use your old drawer parts to make a new one.


. Thank you for the easy instructions! What type of wood and thickness 1/4"?


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

You want quick and simple, then butt joints, with glue blocks in each corner, and along the bottom edges.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

paduke said:


> This link offers a neat trick using a slot cutter
> Drawer Joinery Using A Slot Cutter : One Great Tip


this is my preferred way to make drawers


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Dovetail Joinery with a Router - YouTube


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Chris Curl said:


> this is my preferred way to make drawers


mine is a lock mitre and TS for drawer bottom dado


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

For simple, I do locking rabbet joints like Bill posted. For simpler, I do rabbet joints like Art posted. I do both on either a router table or a table saw.

Dimensions? I use 1/2 thick stock. Sides, I make a rabbet on each end 1/2 inch wide, by 1/4 inch deep. I cut a slot 1/4 wide by 1/4 deep, 1/4 from the bottom for the drawer bottom. The front and rear are 1/2" less than the width of the drawer. The bottom is 1/2" less than the width of the drawer and 1/4" less than it's length. The front and rear are the same width. The front is the same height as the sides, with a 1/4 wide by 1/4 deep slot cut in it 1/4 from the bottom. The rear is 1/2 less in height than the front and sides.

The front and sides are glued and nailed with brads, lining up the slots in the pieces. The rear is glued and nailed with the bottom edge lining up with the top of the slots in the sides. That way the bottom slides into the slots in the sides and into the slot in the front... then stapled to the underside of the rear. The drawer is then fitted. Once fitted, the drawer front is attached to make any visual adjustments to where it's going to live.

I vary those dimensions based on how heavy the drawer should be, but proportionately they are basically the same.

Locking rabbets? Same locations and measurements for the limits of the joint, just different joints. A rabbet joint you have more glue area than a butt joint or mitered joint. A locking rabbet joint, you not only have more glue area, you start using wood of opposing pieces to help hold it together. Other joining such as dovetails, box joints, sliding dovetails, dovetail keys... You then leave the realm of simple and fast, which is what the OP asked for.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Often times when making drawers I reuse old drawers that I find at the curb. I make the front out of what ever material I am using for the rest of the cabinet so that it will match but use the found material for the sides and bottom. When I find a nice drawer I pick it up even if I don't need it. I then take it apart and save the wood. A lot of time you can get nice solid oak or mahogany from the drawer fronts. Although the wood is small it makes nice boxes.


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