# new user -- wants to develop photo frames



## hcauley (Dec 28, 2008)

I'm a new user and I want to make some simple photo frames using some oak that I took down in my back yard. is there a profile that you'd recommend? Is starting with a hard wood like oak going to be too difficult? any feedback would be welcome. (I have a table mounted craftsman router with 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch collects) Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi hcauley

I would suggest you just let the Oak tree be for a bit...
I would suggest you pickup some molding from HD/Lowers/Lumber yard/Picture frame shop..

You can find many ,many types ( profiles) of molding that you can rework into picture frames...  the frame shop will have tons of cut off cheap.
Sometimes it's best to find the stock you want to use that has been milled without you playing with it...

The Oak tree will be great in a year or two once it drys out...you may want to rip it down and stack it up so it can dry out...with spacer sticks so the air can get to all the sides.. 

By the way here's a great bit you can use to make picture frames  once you have the molding..
Picture Frame Rabbet Bits
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_picture_frame.html


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hcauley said:


> I'm a new user and I want to make some simple photo frames using some oak that I took down in my back yard. is there a profile that you'd recommend? Is starting with a hard wood like oak going to be too difficult? any feedback would be welcome. (I have a table mounted craftsman router with 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch collects) Thanks


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

I agree with Bob - there is both science and art involved in harvesting your own wood from the tree. Proper rough-cutting and drying procedures are critical in ending up with usable lumber. I believe the general rule of thumb for drying is one year per inch of rough-cut thickness, properly stickered and sheltered. 

As to the frames themselves and bit profiles, I'd suggest giving thought to the back of the frames first. That is to say, calculate the thickness of what is actually going to be framed (photo + matting + backer boards), along with how the glazing is going to be handled. Having some space (~1/8") between the glazing and the mat is ideal, but requires some engineering to get it to work. The size of the mat also plays a role in what is practical, as does the question of whether everything will be custom-matted or standard pre-cut mats will be used.

In general, you'll have at least a rabbet on the back side, the depth of which will be determined by the above considerations. If you're doing narrow-faced frames (e.g. 1x2 on edge), you can do the back rabbet first, and then the face profile on the router table, using both vertical and horizontal feather boards. The face profile can be anything from square to roundover to a profile like a classical bead/cove combo.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

You can pay someone to dry the wood in a kiln.Some guys will even come pick up the tree, cut it up, stack it, kiln dry it and then you pick the lumber up when ready.


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## hcauley (Dec 28, 2008)

*thanks for advice*

Thanks to the three respondents who provided advice. The oak has been drying for about 3 years and it's been stickered in such a way to provide maximum airflow around the boards. (I sent the bolls to the Amish in PA to have them cut into timber...it was the cheapest way to do it).. advice on starting on the back of the frame and thinking about the construction from that point out very helpful. Cheers.


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