# Danish oil



## boxer (Sep 15, 2004)

For those of you who use Danish Oil, do you go by the directions on the can? Or do you have your own schedule that works better for you? I've seen different brands have different instructions and wondered if anyone had a tried and true method they would share. 
Thanks, Kevin


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Flood it on the wood and let set for 20 minutes. Wipe off excess and let sit over night. Repeat once and that's it.

Great stuff! :sold:


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## boxer (Sep 15, 2004)

I appreciate it, Bob. Do you do any sanding between coats?
Kevin


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

No sanding, just apply and let dry. Danish oil does not raise grain nor have bubbles like varnish products. I have gotten by with 4 hours drying time between coats if you need to push it some. Just be sure the 2nd coat dries over night or longer though.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Danish oil is not like most finishing products. It soaks into the wood rather than sit on top of it. How deep it penetrates depends on the type of wood among other things. I treated some small sample pieces of different types of wood to see how the finish would turn out. With maple and red oak the Watco danish oil I used penetrated about 1/8", on zebrawood about 3/8", so it is a good idea to test finish a small piece of waste material before applying any finish to see how it turns out.
Danish oil does not build up above the surface the way lacquer or polyurethane does, so it has little value protecting against scratches. After danish oil has dried completely you can apply a different product like poly for protection and a "deeper" finish.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I pretty much do the same as Bob Noles. I like Danish oil to pop the grain and followed up with a couple coats poly rubbed out with steel wool and wax. 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Kevin, most of my projects over the last seven years have been finished with Danish oil. I apply the first coat with a brush so that it gets into every nook and cranny. I leave this to harden for at least a day depending on the temperature. The next four coats I apply with a rag, and again leave a day between coats except for the last one, the longer the better to let it really harden. I don't sand between coats but after the last one I rub down with 0000 wire wool lubricated with Johnsons wax polish, this leaves a glass like surface and imparts a sort of patina giving the wood a very natural appearance. I recall discussing Danish oil with Corey some time ago and it appears that all Danish oils are not the same, Corey spoke of the one he was using as being quite watery whereas the RUSTINS brand that I use is as I would expect an oil to be.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Like Harry says, the Watco brand danish oil I use and the most prevalent here in the US while oily has a very thin watery consistency. It does not build up a surface film. Most danish oils don't. I suspect that what Harry is using while called a danish oil finish is actually an oil varnish finish that allows a surface film to be built up and has more solids/polymers in it. 

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Wow Corey, you are getting technical and as I am unable to agree or disagree with you I have a tin in front of me and will copy what is on the can.

In one area it saysanish oil contains tung oil and other special ingredients which penetrate deep into all types of timber, drying to a hard durable and water resistant seal. The oil primes seals and finishes all woods, incl. interior Oak, Teak, Mahogony, Pine and all veneered surfaces. It does not leave a surface film to chip or scratch. May also be used as a primer before painting or varnishing. Excellent for use on all turned work, incl. wooden handles of kitchen equipment tops of storage jars.
At the bottom end of the can it has: Contains cobolt octoate, methyl ethyl ketoxime, naptha. There is also a health warning.
I had to use a magnifying glass to read that as the letters are no more than 1/32"
I hope this means more to you Corey than it does to me.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Hi Harry, sorry I was under the impression that you were able to build up surface layers to get a floss film on top. That's whyt I was thinking that it was not a true danish oil. In the US manufacturers of finish have to put very little on the can as far as ingredients. It does sound pretty much like the oil we use otherwise. 

Corey


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Harry,

I would be surprised if you are getting much if any benefit beyond the 2nd coat if you are using Danish Oil as the wood has absorbed about all it can at that point. Have you tried to stop at 2 coats and finish it out to see if there is any difference?


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## boxer (Sep 15, 2004)

Thanks for all of the responses. I have been using Watco natural for a while now. I bought some Olympic antique danish oil when the Lowes near me was out of Watco. It seems to have a slight tint to it. I decided to use it on some tiger maple I have. The finishing schedule is different than the Watco.
I recently saw a video on youtube about how to make figured maple pop. I sort of followed the directions except I didn't use any stain or dyes. I use a lot of exotic woods so I don't have to. Anyway, I only sanded to 150 grit. I then applied the danish oil. After 24 hours I then sanded to 220 grit and reapplied. I have to say that this procedure really helped with making the figure pop. I don't think I would use the Olympic with the bloodwood or other exotics, or even apply it the same way. I'll try to find a link to the video on this. That guy has some pretty good ideas. It's titled Make Tiger Maple Pop. 
Thanks again for all of the help. Kevin


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

Danish oil is a advertising name for an oil varnish mix. The average is about 1/3 each oil(usually linseed),varnish(usually polyurethane varnish) and mineral spirits. There are no standards and the percentages vary a great deal,Watco is almost 50% solvent. If you are just interested in popping the grain without using dye and/or shellac, flood the surface with linseed oil let it soak for 20-30 minutes wipe off excess and buff the surface well. Let it cure for a couple days and apply a top coat. What protection danish oil offers is from the very thin varnish component.

Regards

Jerry


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

jerrymayfield said:


> Danish oil is a advertising name for an oil varnish mix. The average is about 1/3 each oil(usually linseed),varnish(usually polyurethane varnish) and mineral spirits. There are no standards and the percentages vary a great deal,Watco is almost 50% solvent. If you are just interested in popping the grain without using dye and/or shellac, flood the surface with linseed oil let it soak for 20-30 minutes wipe off excess and buff the surface well. Let it cure for a couple days and apply a top coat. What protection danish oil offers is from the very thin varnish component.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Jerry


Jerry,

Thanks for clarifying the mixture and I was hoping you would be along to do just that for us. Based on the above, one question comes to mind. From what you have described, there really would be no need to go beyond the first coat of this mixture as the wood is sealed at the point of the first coat from the varnish and it could not absorb any additional oil. That being said, wouldn't you get better (or at least same) results just switching to varnish after the first coat has cured?

I would be interested in hearing your thoughts on that.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Boxer,

Here is your link on making tiger pop. Charles Neil is fast becoming one of my favorite woodworkers on video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWCptCxNx4I


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## boxer (Sep 15, 2004)

Thanks, Bob. That's the one. He has a couple of videos on there for popping figure. I agree, he is becoming one of mine also.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob N said:


> Harry,
> 
> I would be surprised if you are getting much if any benefit beyond the 2nd coat if you are using Danish Oil as the wood has absorbed about all it can at that point. Have you tried to stop at 2 coats and finish it out to see if there is any difference?


My reason for applying so many coats was that I thought that I would go through the surface when rubbing down with wire wool, when I want a good shine I rub harder and longer!. Next project I shall try two coats on a test piece and report on my findings Bob.


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

The first coat of any film finish is a sealer coat. I can see no advantage to using "danish oil" and then top coating with varnish. To add the amber color that the oil imparts simply use a varnish with a phenolic resin base. Two-three brushed coats or four-six or more wiped on coats. And please don't buy wiping varnish, make your own.

Regards

Jerry


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Thanks Jerry, I thought that is about what you would say.


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

Like Harry, I apply more than 2 coats of Danish Oil (usually 3 or 4) with a 600 or 800 wet 'n dry rub down while wet then wiped off within 5 mins and with 24 hours drying between each coat. I've found you get 'depth' without a high gloss finish. One thing I have experienced tho' is that the previous coat is liable to scratch if rubbed too hard with the wet 'n dry and the score marks show up under the final coat. That's why I've never been brave enough to use 000 wire wool.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Like you Geordie, I consider that I get depth to the finish, but unlike you I don't rub down until the final coat has hardened, and then it is with 0000 wire wool and wax. I shall however compare just two coats with my normal five on the same test piece so that both sections will receive the same amount of rubbing down.


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

You can apply as many coats as you like,but after the wood is sealed you will be wiping off most of what you apply (other than what evaporates)

Regards

Jerry


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## cabinetman (Apr 23, 2007)

jerrymayfield said:


> Danish oil is a advertising name for an oil varnish mix. The average is about 1/3 each oil(usually linseed),varnish(usually polyurethane varnish) and mineral spirits. There are no standards and the percentages vary a great deal,Watco is almost 50% solvent. If you are just interested in popping the grain without using dye and/or shellac, flood the surface with linseed oil let it soak for 20-30 minutes wipe off excess and buff the surface well. Let it cure for a couple days and apply a top coat. What protection danish oil offers is from the very thin varnish component.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Jerry



You're correct on what "Danish Oil" really is. Being a mix of MS, varnish and oil, if mixed with linseed oil and type of varnish, will have a tendency to get amberish with several applications. It can be mixed with pure tung oil also, which won't have an amberish tint. I found it much more advantageous to mix my own, thus controlling the mix ratios, and giving the results I'm after. It also saves a lot of money.

As for the finishes marked as "something finish", tung oil is only "pure" tung oil if the can is marked "Pure Tung Oil", or 100% Tung oil.


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## Thrifty Tool Guy (Aug 23, 2007)

Harry,

I've done several pieces with Olympic Danish Oil and Formby's Tung Oil and I've definitely seen build-up after 3-4 coats. So, I agree with your observations. 

Having said that, perhaps, Jerry is correct about a "true" danish oil. If so, if we like the natural oil finish and depth that we getting from our process, I wonder if a single coat of our Danish Oil "blends" and a clear lacquer top coat would be easier/process to the same end?

TTG


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

The Olympic is an oil varnish, the Formby's is a thin wiping varnish made with an alkd resin neither contain any tung oil.

Regards

Jerry


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## Thrifty Tool Guy (Aug 23, 2007)

Yes, and so is WATCO. All pretty darn similar.


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## oldnewbie (Sep 18, 2006)

I conclude, then, that my next step, after 2 coats of Formbys tung oil, is 2 or more coats of wipe-on poly. Would this be acceptable? Just re-finishing some boxes and a new clock. Thanks for this forum, Great stuff!!

Neal


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