# 1st Work Bench



## ShazL (Jan 21, 2010)

Ok, now that I have a heap of tools, I figured it would be a great idea to have somewhere to work!

I found a plan that looks fairly simple. Its on the finewoodworking site.

I like this one as it has an instructional video :yes2:

I have purchased the timber cheap, purchased the mdf for the benchtop. 

My question: what to glue the benchtop together with? The mdf is in 2 pieces and glued together with "yellow glue"...Can anyone give me a translation of what this is? ( Oh for universal names for products!!) Can I use pva wood glue?


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Yellow glue is regular carpenters glue like titebond, elmers, etc. My workbench top is 2 pieces of 3/4 inch MDF glued together, and has been rock solid now for 6 years.

I use titebond II

www.Titebond.com

When I glued it together I screwed it from the underside until the glue dried, and then backed all the screws out afterward. The only reason I did that was to make sure I didn't find any by 'accident' if I needed to drill holes, etc. in the bench top.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Greetings Sharon thank you for joining us on this forum, you are most welcome. Tight Bond II or III, seems to be one of most popular I use both but for someone starting out go with III. It gives a little more "open time" that is the time before you cannot make adjustments.

My suggestion, that you being new, do a dry run before you add glue to insure that you have enough clamps and that it will all fit together as planned. I like to do the dry run until there are no more corrections, and then add glue. My friend Doug makes a good suggestion using screws to hold it al together.

Let us know how it all goes!!


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## ShazL (Jan 21, 2010)

Fortunately the plan uses screws to keep it together as well as the glue. I just realised that my location wasn't visible, so I am hoping that titebond is available in Australia. I love the recommendation of the dry run, I will need it  

The "Simple, Sturdy Workbench" also calls for a 7in rapid action wood working vise, is this different from any other type of vise? I am really showing my ignorance now :-(

So, off to the hardware shop to see if they can help me with the bolts 'n' stuff that I need, see if they have the size router bit I need...


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## ShazL (Jan 21, 2010)

Ok, a bit of an update: 

I managed to purchase a 'stand alone' vise, going up to 860mm, including log jaws (I will probably have no use for this attachment). I can attach a mitre saw with additional attachments.

I have finished cutting all the wood to size and purchased the threaded bar. The only thing I have not been able to find are called "s-clip-type tabletop fasteners. They look like an "s" shape with one hole in the top. Would anyone know if I can substitute right angle brackets for this product??? Are they used for some kind of structural function??


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## Cochese (Jan 12, 2010)

From looking at that PDF, right angle isn't going to work. At least not how I'm looking at it.

If you print out the picture of it, I'm sure any big-box hardware store should carry them.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Sharon.. the "s" clips allow for movement (however small, in the case of MDF, not much at all) and hold the benchtop down. You can easily make your own out of scraps...since the top is made out of MDF, and MDF is a very sturdy (no movement as far as expanding and contracting, unlike wood) you could get away with metal brackets. 

PDF: http://images.taunton.com/downloads/GSIW_workbench.pdf

Video of your bench: (hoping this is the right one):
Still don't have a workbench? This one is easy - Fine Woodworking

Is your vise a "top" mounted vise? Mounts on top of the table, rather than under it?


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Bill:

Would you use MDF for a bench top if you wanted to use hold downs?

My ski top needs a holding system for large pieces and I figured I'd use hold downs. But, I was going to use laminated 2x3s but MDF would be easier. Suggestions?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Sharon

I would suggest the MDF for the top of the work bench but with just little mod.

Drill holes 2" in diam. all over the top, use peg board to set up the pattern, in that way you slip clamps into the holes and hold just about any thing down to the top and you can push them up from the bottom side to keep most of the clamp out of the way and you can use 2" diam.dowel pins for stop pins in the top..

======


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

allthunbs said:


> Bill:
> 
> Would you use MDF for a bench top if you wanted to use hold downs?
> 
> My ski top needs a holding system for large pieces and I figured I'd use hold downs. But, I was going to use laminated 2x3s but MDF would be easier. Suggestions?


Ron.. in a word, yep..

alot of benches out there made with MDF tops. Since off of the shelf, its flatter than water its a good choice for use with skis. However, what makes or breaks the deal, IMHO is whats under the MDF. How you frame out the portion of your bench that is going to support the MDF. If you think you'll be doing a good bit of work with the skis and the hold downs, consider planning out your bench with that in mind. Arrange your supports/cross braces in such a manner as to either "not" interfere with you clamp holes or incorporate them as part of the clamping surface (underside). Using the supports would necessitate deeper reaching clamp??? Holes will need to be big enough, IE: BJ's post above. If your looking to use standard bench dogs... i dunno...I don't see the MDF holding up well with the use of dogs. Unless you modify the hole, say oversized with an insert that the benchdog would fit into. Even at that, I can see where the MDF would eventually giveway. Can't say I've ever done it that way, so I'm just kinda wingin' it here as far as using "standard" 3/4" benchdogs. Now, making your own dogs is another story I would think. The broader/wider the dog, the more the load is distributed into the MDF top. Mitre trak might be another consideration. 

confused yet?


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## ShazL (Jan 21, 2010)

Is your vise a "top" mounted vise? Mounts on top of the table, rather than under it?

Hi Bill, in response to the above, i opted out of the attached vise at this stage, its a bit out of the budget, I managed to get a free standing vise. And yes, that is the table and video, I found it great for the absolute beginner like me 

Being such a "noob" to wood working in general, I only sort of get the concept of using bench dogs, most of it is from the video.

Hubby had suggested making the clips, but we had no idea how big or how thick the metal was. I am still looking for the clips, but having no success. The angles would be a temp measure.

I like the idea of the mdf as its fairly cheap and can be replaced easily enough. Ultimately I want to replace either the top or all of the bench with redgum. I have a LOT of learning curves to masterbefore this will happen (if ever)! I have done my practice routing, so hopefully tomorrow I will be able to start routing the sides.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

The purpose of having an MDF top or work surface on your bench is 1: you get a true flat surface to work with, 2: protects the bench itself.

If done properly, replacement of the MDF should done quite easily. A 1/4" sheet should used for this purpose, not anything thicker. If you're after more weight to your bench, add material to the legs and or frame work, not the top.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

bobj3 said:


> Drill holes 2" in diam. all over the top======


2" holes? Kinda big, do you think?


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## waynoe (Sep 29, 2004)

Sharon
Building a work bench is kinda like building a router table, we all have different ideas about what we need and like. I've had my present table for about 20 years now and it serves me well but its looking pretty rough I'm thinking of building a new one. I cut about a meter off if when I moved it to this shop. The mdf top and solid wood tops are great if you only use the table for woodworking but if you are like me I use the table for everything so I end up changing the top every couple of years. My top is made with 
2x4's on there sides kinda like a ladder with 3/4 ply and 1/4 HB for the top not glued on just screwed. So when you need to change it you just use the old top as a template and with a flush trim bit in a short time you have a new top. However you build your table it will be perfect for about ten minutes,then as with everything we build for our shops the ideas will start to creep it. Why didn't I do this why didn't I do that ? It never ends.
Good Luck
Wayne


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

Not that big,take a look at your clamps you need that big of a hole to drop them in easy and quick  they still need to cam over a little bit to get them in place..

I should note I have one ( MDF 24" x 38" ) for the WorkMate to hold the Milescraft items down in place and to keep the clamps out of the way..

I got the hint form the video below, note his work bench. but he has smaller clamps than I do 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1i6dUmi9xg

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AxlMyk said:


> 2" holes? Kinda big, do you think?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Sharon...

couple of Aus. suppliers for clips: 

Table Bracket , Hardware Online-kitchen-furniture-school

Catalogue - Cabinet Fittings - General Cabinet Fittings

Its ALL one big learning curve!! Newbie or seasoned hobbyist it never ends. Personally I think thats the beauty of it. Always something to try, something new etc.. Your bench is a great place to start. You always need a good place to work off of.


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## MarcoBernardini (Jan 26, 2010)

Before to buy bench bolts like the *Veritas special bench bolts* (US$29.50 four pieces!) don't forget you can make your own.
If you don't have a drill press buy one, make 8 bench bolts, save some money and keep the drill for free 
There is no need to look for brass, too: you can use normal iron bars, painting them before to assemble.
I made many of those bolts, they are pretty useful.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Just a note, if you don't want to make your own you can buy them as a run of the mill item from
McMaster-Carr

They are called dowel nuts and barrel nuts and also sex nuts.

But I will say you don't need them most of the time, just use a standard nut and a SAE washer,just put in a pocket hole to take the nut and washer..
======


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Ron.. in a word, yep..
> 
> alot of benches out there made with MDF tops. Since off of the shelf, its flatter than water its a good choice for use with skis. However, what makes or breaks the deal, IMHO is whats under the MDF. How you frame out the portion of your bench that is going to support the MDF. If you think you'll be doing a good bit of work with the skis and the hold downs, consider planning out your bench with that in mind. Arrange your supports/cross braces in such a manner as to either "not" interfere with you clamp holes or incorporate them as part of the clamping surface (underside). Using the supports would necessitate deeper reaching clamp??? Holes will need to be big enough, IE: BJ's post above. If your looking to use standard bench dogs... i dunno...I don't see the MDF holding up well with the use of dogs. Unless you modify the hole, say oversized with an insert that the benchdog would fit into. Even at that, I can see where the MDF would eventually giveway. Can't say I've ever done it that way, so I'm just kinda wingin' it here as far as using "standard" 3/4" benchdogs. Now, making your own dogs is another story I would think. The broader/wider the dog, the more the load is distributed into the MDF top. Mitre trak might be another consideration.
> 
> confused yet?


Hi Bill:

Oops, I think we've got a communications breakdown here. I'm not using bench dogs but holddowns. If bench dogs will over-stress the MDF then hold downs will definitely crucify it.

I can appreciate the strengths of MDF for dimensional stability and flatness but I also need strength to hold long pieces for ski work. These long pieces need to be held to the bench with quern or hold downs. Both provide the same action but provide different stresses on the bench top. I guess MDF ain't gonna work! ;-(


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Ron....gotcha now!!! I'd have to agree with ya 100%! I think over time, the holes would eventually give out. Much, much quicker than a hardwood top. What size lumber you looking to mill? Would a stand alone, dedicated jig work for ya? Something that might sit atop of your bench and the wood held in place by the jig itself?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

MarcoBernardini said:


> Before to buy bench bolts like the *Veritas special bench bolts* (US$29.50 four pieces!) don't forget you can make your own.
> If you don't have a drill press buy one, make 8 bench bolts, save some money and keep the drill for free
> There is no need to look for brass, too: you can use normal iron bars, painting them before to assemble.
> I made many of those bolts, they are pretty useful.


That is a hell of a dear set of bolts ! Those barrel nuts are available for buttons at any woodworking suppliers, even here in Croatia.

Cheers

Peter


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Just a note, if you don't want to make your own you can buy them as a run of the mill item from
> McMaster-Carr
> 
> They are called dowel nuts and barrel nuts and also sex nuts.
> ...


Dowel Nuts— Plain Steel 
1/4"-20— Slotted Drive; Body Dia.: 10 mm 
12 mm	___	___	___	50 90835A200	9.69

16 mm	___	___	___	25 90835A210	5.80

is a much more realistic price !

Cheers

Peter


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## MarcoBernardini (Jan 26, 2010)

istracpsboss said:


> Dowel Nuts— Plain Steel
> 1/4"-20— Slotted Drive; Body Dia.: 10 mm
> 12 mm	___	___	___	50 90835A200	9.69
> 
> ...


At least "reasonable".
For the last ones I made for a friend I used a scrap of 20 mm iron rod, with an 8 mm bolt. Actually I made just some holes and tapped them, leaving him the duty to "slice" the rod in the right size with an angle grinder.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

It's funny how things come back in your mind, this is how I did my work bench 

=======


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> It's funny how things come back in your mind, this is how I did my work bench
> 
> =======


That's what I started thinking about, since that is how they used to assemble the CNCs at the buildyourcnc website before they started using cross dowels/barrel nuts.

If one wants to purchase cross dowels/barrel nuts, then Rockler sells 1/4-20 ones at $3.79 for an 8-pack: Rockler cross dowels

A more economical place to buy them if you can wait for shipping might be McFeelys. They sell a 25 pack for $8, but I don't know how much shipping is. McFeelys barrel nuts

As for hold downs, how about the ones that go in 3/4" holes: Lee Valley Hold-Down Clamps

I bought some for my Workmate, then later bought the ones from Harbor Freight and they look like they are made from the exact same molds/dies at a much cheaper price, I think half price actually.


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## paininthe (Jun 22, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Drill holes 2" in diam. all over the top, use peg board to set up the pattern,
> 
> ======


What a great idea using the peg board!

Not sure about the 2" though, why that big?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

ShazL said:


> Ok, now that I have a heap of tools, I figured it would be a great idea to have somewhere to work!
> 
> I found a plan that looks fairly simple. Its on the finewoodworking site.
> 
> ...


Hi Sharron,

"yellow glue" is just a generic name for PVA glue?

Titebond is available at Bunnings, Mitre 10 etc.

James


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

ShazL said:


> Ok, now that I have a heap of tools, I figured it would be a great idea to have somewhere to work!
> 
> I found a plan that looks fairly simple. Its on the finewoodworking site.
> 
> ...



PS I will Pm you..

James


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Paul

It's VERY hard to snap off/crack a 2" dowel pin, 3/4" very easy to snap one off..plus the more mass you have in the MDF the better.. 

Plus the holes are for the clamps to fit in , they say a picture is worth a 1000 words, here's one or two of the top on the WorkMate bench..it's a light duty one put it will clamp just about anything I need to hold down 

========



paininthe said:


> What a great idea using the peg board!
> 
> Not sure about the 2" though, why that big?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Now Bj, just where have you been hiding this table? I like the design of it. Most definitely something to look into.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Ken

It's a very old table (WM) about 35 years or so I use it for many jobs, the drop in top is a new one so to speak I got the hint/tip from one of the videos from Milescraft..I have many drop in tops in the back room for the WM  can't have to many jigs to give me a hand, my shop is small so I must put most away in the back room..

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Hamlin said:


> Now Bj, just where have you been hiding this table? I like the design of it. Most definitely something to look into.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi BobJ

what are the big dowels used for? curiousity is killing me! that table would be very useful, i like it!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bud

It was error on my part I was going to use 4" x 8" plank for the center support for the top but then I could not find one in the back room so I just use the 2" x 8" plank I had on hand.
The big dowel holes would be in the big plank to clamp and pull items tight and take chairs apart for repair..all that's needed to reverse the clamp and pull/push them apart.. 



=======



levon said:


> hi BobJ
> 
> what are the big dowels used for? curiousity is killing me! that table would be very useful, i like it!


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

thanks BobJ,

i see what you mean. many times we need to clamp down something and cant find a good place or the clamps get in the way of other tasks. your table takes care of that problem.

i can see where its very useful with the milescraft kit also.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Awesome idea BJ and added to my to do list


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## paininthe (Jun 22, 2009)

Oh yes, I see now. Unfortunately I have spent time on the Festool forum looking at their MFT tables and had them in mind. As others have said a great looking work table.

Thanks





bobj3 said:


> Hi Paul
> 
> It's VERY hard to snap off/crack a 2" dowel pin, 3/4" very easy to snap one off..plus the more mass you have in the MDF the better..
> 
> ...


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## ShazL (Jan 21, 2010)

Grr, I'm not able to find the "s clips" anywhere...looks like I will have to import them.

I did, however find MDF glue, yellow tinged, very quick drying time...the boys put the two pieces together, now I have to trim it...

I also busted my first router bit - it was only a cheap one that I got in a set, I figured it was more prudent to buy a set and replace the ones I use with good ones, rather than waste a heap of money on ones I would never use. But, it is nearly completed. 4 more routed slots and the table top cut for shelf. (its a long piece, glued and screwed). I have posted the photos on facebook if anyone is interested.


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## ShazL (Jan 21, 2010)

Its finally finished! The basic table that is 

There is a backboard going on too, made from pegboard! Using mostly recycled materials it cost around $200 - the bulk of the money went in the threaded bar. It weighs a ton, so its not moving any time soon.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Congratulations Sharon! That looks like one VERY solid work bench!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Ya done good Sharon!!!! *S*

what did you finally end up doing to supplement the "S" clips?


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## ShazL (Jan 21, 2010)

I ended up using 50mm right angle brackets, getting ready to purchase some "s" clips from america, I got a quote from Rockler, who will post me 5 packs of 8, including postage (express) for $45.85 (I assume U.S.).

I will then decide if I can get some made here, or if I send for more when I need them. 

Currently I am making chalk boards, learning how to mitre. I have since added a backboard to the table


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

ShazL said:


> I ended up using 50mm right angle brackets, getting ready to purchase some "s" clips from america, I got a quote from Rockler, who will post me 5 packs of 8, including postage (express) for $45.85 (I assume U.S.).
> 
> I will then decide if I can get some made here, or if I send for more when I need them.
> 
> Currently I am making chalk boards, learning how to mitre. I have since added a backboard to the table


Sharon:

Go to your local sheet metal or welding shop and either have them show you how to make them or have them made for you. They're dead easy. A 1" wide strip of sheet metal, 20Ga, any scrap steel. A small hammer and a vice and even the vice is optional if you squeeze it between a couple of hefty pieces of relatively hard wood. You can drill the holes or use sheet metal screws (the pointed ones) will work fine.

Most of the sheet metal mechanics I know will be happy to take the time to show you what you need to know. Metal is not difficult if someone shows you the tricks.


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## MarcoBernardini (Jan 26, 2010)

ShazL said:


> I ended up using 50mm right angle brackets, getting ready to purchase some "s" clips from america, I got a quote from Rockler, who will post me 5 packs of 8, including postage (express) for $45.85 (I assume U.S.).
> 
> I will then decide if I can get some made here, or if I send for more when I need them.
> 
> Currently I am making chalk boards, learning how to mitre. I have since added a backboard to the table


Angle brackets are good enough, probably even better, because you don't have to make the top slot. I'd go for longer brackets, 120 mm or so, to better distribute the forces.
What about a strip of that nice backboard in front of the aged board below the table? In this way you don't need to "rejuvenate" it and in the same time you get space for some extra holders.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great job, Sharron,

This is the same as the one I was going to send you.

James


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## Eusibius2 (Feb 25, 2010)

ShazL said:


> I ended up using 50mm right angle brackets, getting ready to purchase some "s" clips from america, I got a quote from Rockler, who will post me 5 packs of 8, including postage (express) for $45.85 (I assume U.S.).
> 
> I will then decide if I can get some made here, or if I send for more when I need them.
> 
> Currently I am making chalk boards, learning how to mitre. I have since added a backboard to the table


congrats - looks like a mighty fine table to me!


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