# Hitachi M12VC Collets



## amishx64 (Mar 28, 2010)

Ok, this is my third attempt at getting this to post, so maybe it'll actually work this time... Are my posts getting eaten (moded-out) since I'm new to the forum?
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I recently purchased a Hitachi M12VC Router that came with two collets and two nuts. One is 1/4" and the other is 1/2". *I need a 1/8"* and maybe a 3/8" *collet for this router* for things like making PCB's and small parts. I have searched all over the net to no avail, so I am asking the experts now.

I found some collets that I could get at precisebits/dawt\com but they say that I need to buy the collet, special nut, and special wrench for the special nut, which is a bit expensive and a waste since I only need the collet itself. I would like another source for a new collet. 

Isn't there a standard for collets in these routers? I got the hit from reading online that my Hitachi uses ER collets and is compatible with the Bosch collets, but I could be mistaken.

The best answer I could hope for would be "You need to buy an ER-** collet for 1/8" bits from ****.com"

Thanks,
- amishx64


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## Mark (Aug 4, 2004)

When you post and it contains keywords in my filter it goes to the moderation que. When you posted this thread it told you it was required to be review before it would be public, you just missed the message . Anyway back on topic.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi amishx64

They don't make one , the easy way is just use a adapter it's cheap and quick and easy to use , I used one for the 1/8" and the 1/16" shaft bits and it works well..

MLCS Woodworking Adaptor Bushings and Ball Bearing Guides

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amishx64 said:


> Ok, this is my third attempt at getting this to post, so maybe it'll actually work this time... Are my posts getting eaten (moded-out) since I'm new to the forum?
> -------------------------------------------------
> I recently purchased a Hitachi M12VC Router that came with two collets and two nuts. One is 1/4" and the other is 1/2". *I need a 1/8"* and maybe a 3/8" *collet for this router* for things like making PCB's and small parts. I have searched all over the net to no avail, so I am asking the experts now.
> 
> ...


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## amishx64 (Mar 28, 2010)

Mark,
Ahh, that's why. Thanks. I remember seeing a screen, but it was there and gone before I read anything.

bobj3, Thanks! That seems like a nice easy, cheap solution. Does this affect runout much?


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

As a not so experienced router guy, could you please explain why 1/8 and 3/8? I have never heard of such a thing?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

They are made just for that job, it will have the same runout if you have any.. 

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amishx64 said:


> Mark,
> Ahh, that's why. Thanks. I remember seeing a screen, but it was there and gone before I read anything.
> 
> bobj3, Thanks! That seems like a nice easy, cheap solution. Does this affect runout much?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Johnny

Sometimes you will need to use very small router bits or odd ball size that can only be had in the 3/8' shank size, I have some that are 1/32" step up in sizes and I have many 1/8" shanks size that down to 1/16" and smaller like the size of a pin needle in diam.



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JohnnyB60 said:


> As a not so experienced router guy, could you please explain why 1/8 and 3/8? I have never heard of such a thing?


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Johnny
> 
> Sometimes you will need to use very small router bits or odd ball size that can only be had in the 3/8' shank size, I have some that are 1/32" step up in sizes and I have many 1/8" shanks size that down to 1/16" and smaller like the size of a pin needle in diam.
> 
> ...


Wow I had no idea, thanks.


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## amishx64 (Mar 28, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Johnny
> 
> Sometimes you will need to use very small router bits or odd ball size that can only be had in the 3/8' shank size, I have some that are 1/32" step up in sizes and I have many 1/8" shanks size that down to 1/16" and smaller like the size of a pin needle in diam.


Yea, those bits are exactly what I'm trying to use with my 1/4" collet. Thank you.


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## TDA (Jun 22, 2010)

A quick introduction so you'll know my bias upfront. I'm John Torrez from Think & Tinker / PreciseBits.



amishx64; said:


> I found some collets that I could get at precisebits/dawt\com but they say that I need to buy the collet, special nut, and special wrench for the special nut, which is a bit expensive and a waste since I only need the collet itself. I would like another source for a new collet.


Sorry for the trouble with that. This decision was not made to make you have to spend more money but rather to give you a more accurate system (the goal was to get as close to spindle level performance as possible). In order to have the most accurate system possible you need to have a balanced nut and a wrench that can apply even force to the collet. 



amishx64 said:


> bobj3, Thanks! That seems like a nice easy, cheap solution. Does this affect run-out much?


These type of adapters do add run-out. Possibly a lot of run-out depending on the adapter. One of the basic problems with this type of adapter (where you have one groove going through the tool) is that it will shift the tool to one side as it compresses to hold the tool . Run-out will vary from adapter to adapter. I personally have seen between 1 and 7 thou worth of run-out in these type of adapters. What you will get is pretty much luck of the draw.

If it will work for you or not depends on your specific adapter and your application. A good rule on thumb with run-out is that you have 10% of the diameter of the cutter before you break the tool. So a .0313" tool can tolerate about .003" worth of run-out before breaking. There are also issues with tool life and kerf/pocket size but I won't get into those unless someone wants me to.

Let me finish by saying this. I am not trying to talk you into anything or push our product. I'm just trying to provide data. Regardless of what you end up using I wish you well with your milling. 

John Torrez
Think & Tinker / PreciseBits


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Thanks for the info..I have push your bits for a long time they are the best  but the key word is "adapter" I think ,anytime you use one you will have run out errors, just can't get around it...most forget they are working with wood, I think and it's the most unstable stock you can use to make items.


http://www.precisebits.com/products/equipment/pc_collets_nuts.asp

John

I have a question for you,, I see it takes a spec.wrench to use the collet but many of the PC routers need two wrench system to break the nut free how do you take care of that job.. ?
I'm thinking it takes the fac. stock wrench and the spec.wrench to get the job done ,right ?

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TDA said:


> A quick introduction so you'll know my bias upfront. I'm John Torrez from Think & Tinker / PreciseBits.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## TDA (Jun 22, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi John
> 
> Thanks for the info..I have push your bits for a long time they are the best


Thanks for the compliment we try . 



bobj3 said:


> but the key word is "adapter" I think ,anytime you use one you will have run out errors, just can't get around it


You're right. Anytime you add anything in the path of the router and the tool (including collets ) you get run-out. Although "adapters" tend to be worse. On top of that you have an adapter (1/4" to 1/8" sleeve) in an adapter (a collet is an router taper to X" adapter). It's just the nature of the beast. 




bobj3 said:


> ...most forget they are working with wood, I think and it's the most unstable stock you can use to make items.


You won't get an argument from me. When you start getting into the really hard stuff (ebony, rosewood, ect) it becomes all the more obvious. I can't tell you how many times I have banged my head into a wall over the inconsistency of that stuff.



bobj3 said:


> John
> 
> I have a question for you,, I see it takes a spec.wrench to use the collet but many of the PC routers need two wrench system to break the nut free how do you take care of that job.. ?
> I'm thinking it takes the fac. stock wrench and the spec.wrench to get the job done ,right ?
> ...


Yup, you use the stock wrench plus a our spanner. 

Thanks again for pushing for us.


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