# Can I safely use a plunge bit on a router table?



## jackstraw (Oct 7, 2013)

Hi there,

This is my first time visiting this forum. I'm relatively new to woodworking. I have a project that I'm working on and I'm trying to figure out the safest way to make a few cuts with my router. I'm building a frame out of stock that's 1 1/4" thick by 5" wide and about 7' long. In the middle of the edge side, I need to cut a 1/2" x 1/2" dado, but I do not want it to run the entire length of the board. Both ends will be cut for lap joints, so I want the dado to start and stop before the joints. I'm assuming that a plunge router might be difficult on the edge of the board. I'm wondering if I can do this on my router table. Can I either raise the bit (while running) into the wood or lower the wood onto the spinning plunge bit? I'm using a Bosch router with a Benchdog Protop Contractor router table. 

I've also looked at stacked slot cutter router bits, but that would leave the ends of my dado pretty rounded. 

Thanks for the help!


Bill


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Hi Bill. Welcome to our little corner of the 'net.

The most common way to do what you want is to determine a start, and stop point, of your dadoe and mark them in some manner on your fence or table. Start your router and position the board over the bit at the start point and lower onto the spinning bit. Move the board across the bit until you reach your finish point and then turn the router off. When the bit stops, remove the board and move onto the next piece. If you MUST have the dadoe centered in the board, reverse the board and repeat the process and your dadoe will be dead center in the board.

Now, your stock is only 1 1/4" thick? That's a bit thin in my opinion for this type of cut. I would put some type of feather-board in place to hold the stock in tight to the fence. that way you only have to push down and move the stock.. you don't have to try and hold it against the fence as well.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

jackstraw said:


> Hi there,
> In the middle of the edge side, I need to cut a 1/2" x 1/2" dado, but I do not want it to run the entire length of the board.
> 
> I'm assuming that a plunge router might be difficult on the edge of the board. I'm wondering if I can do this on my router table.
> ...


I am a bit confused Bill, are you making a stopped dado in the middle of the board or are you making a stopped rabbet on the edge of the board? I disagree with Brian about dropping a board onto a spinning bit. While this can be done many times without incident, the one time it doesn't work can cost you your finger tips. If you are making a stopped dado in the middle of the board take the router out of the table and use an edge guide and plunge the bit into the cut. If you are making a stopped rabbet on the edge you can do this on a router table by sliding the board sideways into the bit and fence, working from right to left. As Brian suggested, you can mark your start and stop points on the fence, the start point on the left side of the bit and the stop point on the right side. You can also do it woith the router out of the table but adjust the height before you start. If you are using a plunge router you can set the turret height with a 1/2" drill bit, a 1/2" piece of keystock, etc. Refer to your owner's manual about that function.

Never, ever make adjustments on bit height while the bit is spinning and in contact with the wood! By the way, welcome to the forum.


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## jackstraw (Oct 7, 2013)

Thanks, Brian.

That reaffirms what I thought would be the best option. Just wanted to be sure. I will try a test piece and make sure I use a feather-board. 


thanks,
Bill


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## jackstraw (Oct 7, 2013)

Charles,

This is a stopped dado. Not a rabbet. I can take a look at the edge guide and plunge. I didn't know if I'd have enough room, since it's on the edge of the board (not the face). 


thanks,
Bill


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Okay Bill, I see what you want now. I can think of a way to do it with a plunge but it would require 2 people. In this case your hands will be 4 1/2" above the bit and over the fence which is safer. A featherboard won't work since you go into and past it to work. You need to clamp a board to the table that will prevent the workpiece from wandering when you drop it down and it needs to be taller than the bit. That board will eliminate any possibility of your hand coming into contact with the bit.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Bill, welcome to the forum.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Perhaps this simple method will solve your problem.


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## Iceman567 (Apr 29, 2012)

harrysin said:


> Perhaps this simple method will solve your problem.


Very good idea, looks safer too.


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## kywoodchopper (Jul 18, 2013)

BILL, I have built many kitchen cabinets using a router mounted in a table to make mortises. I believe I understand that is what you are trying to do. For a kitchen drawer stack where I have several rails that meet at the stiles, I mark the stiles where the rails will meet. I generally use a 1/4" spiral bit to cut the mortises. I drill a 1/4" hole in the edge of the stile where the mortise is to stop and start. I start the router and push the rail down onto the bit and push the stile until I feel it hit the 2nd hole. I lift the rail and move to the next hole. Lower the stile and cut until the next hole. I am generally cutting the mortises around 1/2" deep. I have done this for years with any problems. As mentioned above if you want to make sure the mortises are centered just turn the rail around and put the other side against the fence. Hope this helps. Malcolm / Kentucky USA


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## jackstraw (Oct 7, 2013)

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I will try to find some time this weekend to see what will work well for me. With trying something new (for me) and keeping safety as a priority, it's nice to hear some options to consider. Will let you know how it turns out.

thanks.


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## FreeTime (Dec 2, 2012)

Harry,

I like your idea. I have a DeWalt 618 and can't seem to find 2 viable opposing holes to mount the fixture/jig in the base. Should I risk attempting to drill and tap 2 holes in the cast aluminum base assuming I can find enough material to support the hole?

Thanks
Mark


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