# Maintenance to the illuminated router base



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

It may be remembered that some time ago I made, and posted a photo-shoot of an illuminated router base. In use it's been highly successful, however under certain conditions the flexible Silicone rubber leads got in the way so I at last decided today was the day to replace them with thinner leads and here are the photos. I have decided that the base will be permanently on the Makita 3600 which is on skis, the 3600 and 3612C have identical bases. I'll add a zip file of the original project.
I've received a couple of questions regarding the original thread, the LED's that I used were rated at 40,000mcd brightness, but higher or lower won't be a problem and the pot. isn't necessary, it can be replaced by a fixed resister that gives you a suitable brightness. Regarding how the groove was made for the wires to sit in, I've posted a new zip file with shots 17a and 17b added to answer this.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

Nice job as always  but did you know that you could have had a V8..for just a little bit of money..

On-Point Universal Laser Guided Router Plate

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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I suppose that the cross hairs could have their use but did you notice how uneven the light around the bit is compared to the one I made Bob. Of course, anyone who wants to make mine can extend the base in a similar way to house the battery pack and fit a knob if desired. Why not add a lighted base project to your long list of "to things to make".


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## annaatkins (Nov 30, 2011)

Nice job! Thanks for sharing that with us!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You're welcome ???????????????


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## Leifs1 (Dec 16, 2009)

harrysin said:


> It may be remembered that some time ago I made, and posted a photo-shoot of an illuminated router base. In use it's been highly successful, however under certain conditions the flexible Silicone rubber leads got in the way so I at last decided today was the day to replace them with thinner leads and here are the photos. I have decided that the base will be permanently on the Makita 3600 which is on skis, the 3600 and 3612C have identical bases. I'll add a zip file of the original project.
> I've received a couple of questions regarding the original thread, the LED's that I used were rated at 40,000mcd brightness, but higher or lower won't be a problem and the pot. isn't necessary, it can be replaced by a fixed resister that gives you a suitable brightness. Regarding how the groove was made for the wires to sit in, I've posted a new zip file with shots 17a and 17b added to answer this.


Hello harrysin, very nice job. I have a few questions though: What thickness is your baseplate ? What size are your led's ? Here in Denmark I can get some with diameter 1,8mm, 3,0mm, and 5,0mm.
Then how did you combine the led's ? All led's here use 3,5 Volt. You use 4 leds as far as I can see and with only 9 volt ? Did you put 2 and 2 in serie or what ?
Thanks in advance for your answer here or at [email protected]


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Leifs1 said:


> Hello harrysin, very nice job. I have a few questions though: What thickness is your baseplate ? What size are your led's ? Here in Denmark I can get some with diameter 1,8mm, 3,0mm, and 5,0mm.
> Then how did you combine the led's ? All led's here use 3,5 Volt. You use 4 leds as far as I can see and with only 9 volt ? Did you put 2 and 2 in serie or what ?
> Thanks in advance for your answer here or at [email protected]


Thanks for your interest Leif, here is the schematic, I'm not sure how it became separated from the main file which I've also attached. If you have any difficulty opening the file, let me know and I'll make a pdf. The LED's were 5mm, the highest brightness rating that I could get but I can't remember what it was, but even when I turn down the brightness control to minimum, the overall brightness is more than adequate, so using almost any LED's should do and the brightness pot. can be deleted. The base is 10mm thick


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## glwatson (Aug 31, 2011)

Harry, You make it easy for others to make the gadgets to make woodworking a little easier. I admire your adventure to build these items and to share them with others. 
Your presentations are very clear and precise.
Thanks
GLW


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You really are kind George, it's appreciation like this that takes me from one project to the next and makes me forget that I've just turned 78.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Now I see why you know so much, you are a real OLD fart.. 

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harrysin said:


> You really are kind George, it's appreciation like this that takes me from one project to the next and makes me forget that I've just turned 78.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I wear the badge with pride my friend.


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## Hog (Jan 16, 2012)

Thanks for info!


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## Peteroo (Aug 17, 2011)

Hi Harry
I have over the past year given the idea of a button battery LED to the power tool makers for such jobs as the old jig saws which don't have one and the routers which are also in the dark. On one report on the web about a router the author said that he would not buy another power tool without a LED built in. At 60 I feel the same way. Is it possible to make a button battery LED for my old jigsaw? Is the power enough for the process? How would it be fitted? I have a Festo Ps2e with a clear plastic enclosure. Could it be transferable?
In the same letters I have asked for a pair of vibration absorbing gloves for sanding with a random orbit sander, or, alternatively a vibration eliminating cover for the sander's handle. Have you worked on this problem too?
From one inventor to another, thank you 
regards
Peteroo(1111)


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

To start with the 1.55 volts from a button cell isn't enough for an LED, at least 2 are needed, some torches use 3, and of course they have very low capacity. Lights fitted by manufacturers in my experience are not particularly effective. I have the latest Makita RP2301FC router with two built in LED lights BUT, they only come on when the router is switched on so it isn't possible to set up for the cut as is shown in this shot of my lighted base.
Here is a pdf showing some of the lights that I'v used over the years. The second shot shows the last, most effective light before buying the new router and making it redundant.
Even if anti-vibration handles were available for my jig saw, sander etc. I wouldn't consider them because I find that the vibration is good for my Arthritis! Keep on inventing, I find it a pleasurable pastime.


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## Grahamt (Aug 30, 2014)

This led base is a really good idea and I intend to make myself.


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## tulowd (Jan 24, 2019)

Peteroo said:


> Hi Harry
> I have over the past year given the idea of a button battery LED to the power tool makers for such jobs as the old jig saws which don't have one and the routers which are also in the dark. On one report on the web about a router the author said that he would not buy another power tool without a LED built in. At 60 I feel the same way. Is it possible to make a button battery LED for my old jigsaw? Is the power enough for the process? How would it be fitted? I have a Festo Ps2e with a clear plastic enclosure. Could it be transferable?
> In the same letters I have asked for a pair of vibration absorbing gloves for sanding with a random orbit sander, or, alternatively a vibration eliminating cover for the sander's handle. Have you worked on this problem too?
> From one inventor to another, thank you
> ...


Peter: there are many different kinds of impact resistant work gloves in the automotive /racing field for using impact guns when changing tires, or an air chisel when cutting out a metal panel. Jackhammer too I imagine. Typically, they have some kind of padding, the nicer ones use a gel. I would try them on for comfy and tight fit to ensure you can still control the tool properly.

I have found sport motorcycle (leather and more dineros) as well as motocross gloves (much less expensive) to be very useful for antivibration purposes. My snowmobile handlebars vibrate from the 150hp 2 stroke, especially at 100 mph. I would try these as well, they all have some kind of palm padding.

And you'll be able to select a colour to match your workshop apron, lol.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Gee Harry, 78, I though you were an old coot. I'm 76 and still abut 17 in my mind. How old do you need to be an old coot?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

DesertRatTom said:


> Gee Harry, 78, I though you were an old coot. I'm 76 and still abut 17 in my mind. How old do you need to be an old coot?


Where on earth did you get 78 from Tom? I'm 85 and counting.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

While browsing, I came across this video showing adding LED lights to a router base using a slightly different method - he uses a LED light used for reading a Kindle, looks to be a pretty neat package. He also had a longer video showing making custom router bases. Sure has a nice setup just to make router bases...............


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

A little research and I found the source for the LED light.

https://www.amazon.com/Lewis-N-Clark-eReader-Light/dp/B005BHVRD6


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

On the whole a well made project, however there are two important aspects that wouldn't suit my kind of routing. Firstly, the three piece brass template guides don't allow the chuck to pass through the guides, reducing the possible depth of cut and using such small guides does not allow a view of the bit which is so important when aligning the bit to a line. These two shortcomings mean that there is no advantage in having the illuminated base!


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

@harrysin

I agree, the lighted base seems a little superfluous when used with a template guide, thinking that the router is going to be guided by a pattern or fixture and the light not really necessary. I liked the way that he took an available assembly and repurposed the components for his base - and I certainly liked the equipment he used to make the bases. I'm working on assembling a workstation where the router sits in a cradle mounter on and aluminum track and will be used to cut dadoes in cabinet parts - having the lighted base will allow me to line up the cutter with my pencil layout line as you show in the one photo and then set a stop so I can cut multiple parts.

I'm waiting for delivery of one of the LED lights and will be looking at making templates so that I can cut the recesses needed for the light, wiring and switch. The base will have a large hole, probably around 2-1/2" dia, to give me full view of the cutting area. My router will probably be used exclusively mounted on this cradle/base so I'll have to modify the idea a little so that I can replace the batteries without having to remove the router from the base.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

A bag of 100 LED's would cost probably less than one of those lights


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