# Which jointer??



## bigmuddyriver (May 29, 2011)

I've come to the point where I've decided that I need to purchase a jointer. Heading to Springfield, MO Grizzly store next weekend to pick one up. The question is should I go with an 8" with straight cutter blades(GO656P) for $695 or should I go with the 6" with spiral cutters (GO452Z)for $725. I like the longer bed on the 8" but how often do you need to face joint and 8" board. 

Then to confuse matters more they have a 6" parallelogram for $685. GO604X 

HELP!:fie:

Tom


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I bought a 4 blade long bed 8" from Sun in Tacoma about 15 years ago. I use mine to joint 8" wide stock occasionally and also square logs up so that I can turn them into lumber. I like the long bed and the 8" head, but it depends on what you will be using it for. Bigger means more money but fewer limitations. I don't feel a need to change my jointer to a spiral head. I am considering it for my planer.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I have a Griz G1018 8". It's an older model, but the technology hasn't changed over the years.
It has straight knives and does just fine, although a Byrd head would be nice on it for figured wood. Mainly for tearout. I have the Byrd on my planer, since that is the step after jointing.

I had a 6" Jet before the Griz, and always wanted the extra 2". It does come in handy.
You can always upgrade the cutter head later if you choose. A Byrd for an 8" Griz is about $400.

Since I'm into the old arn, I'm restoring a late 30s, early 40s J.D. Walker 8" as of late. When running, it'll replace the Griz. I'll probably never have another 6" in the shop.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Good suggestions, but before you make a decision think long and hard about what you will be using it for. If most of your work will be jointing the edges of 3/4 - 2" pre-surfaced stock you surely don't need more than a 6" jointer. However, if you will be working with rough sawn stock and surfacing the faces as well as the edges, an 8" jointer may not be wide enough. You should also consider the length of the stock. The longer the bed of the jointer is, the straighter you be able to make long stock. However, if you will be mostly working with stock that is less than 4' long, a shorter 36-42" jointer bed will do fine. Only you can decide which jointer will be best for you.

Charley


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Tom, How you buy your wood is a big factor in which width to purchase. I bought a 6" jointer for the following reasons: most glue ups are based on multiples of 6"... 12, 18 and 24" for cabinets; thickness planer's are usually only capable of 12" widths... again a multiple of 6"; and cost. Blades are the main wear part and 6" blades are cheaper than 8" blades. Wood is usually cheaper in 6" widths, and more plentiful. If you are jointing a cupped board you lose less thickness in a 6" width. These are also the reasons I went with a 12-1/2" thickness planer instead of a larger model.


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## bigmuddyriver (May 29, 2011)

*Decision made*

Well, I appreciate everyone's help and have decided to go with the 8". Talked to Grizzly tech on the phone and he was very helpful as well. The reason that I went with the 8" is not so much the extra width but the extra length on the beds 72" vs. 46". Other factors are a) it was on sale, b) it was the cheapest of the lot, c) I can add spiral cutter head in the future if I see the need and d) there were only two left in Springfield so I put it on my cc for pickup.

Thanks to everyone.

Tom (BMR)


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## RJM (Apr 11, 2010)

bigmuddyriver said:


> Well, I appreciate everyone's help and have decided to go with the 8". Talked to Grizzly tech on the phone and he was very helpful as well. The reason that I went with the 8" is not so much the extra width but the extra length on the beds 72" vs. 46". Other factors are a) it was on sale, b) it was the cheapest of the lot, c) I can add spiral cutter head in the future if I see the need and d) there were only two left in Springfield so I put it on my cc for pickup.
> 
> Thanks to everyone.
> 
> Tom (BMR)


GOOD CHOICE!!!

I have a G0500 which has an 8"x75" bed and I've never thought that the bed was too wide, or too short.

One thing no one mentioned is that if you nick a blade, you can move the fence just past it and put off having to sharpen a blade right away.

There's a recent thread regarding spiral heads that you should also read. I thought I wanted one but now I don't think I do.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Good choice Tom. I don't believe that you will regret going bigger. None of us out-and-out mentioned that one of the primary reasons to have a wide and long bed was for flattening cupped lumber. One other tip: nothing beats a jointer for rabetting boards (rebate if you are English). A router comes in a very distant second. The jointer is faster to set up and leaves just as smooth a finish and is much faster cutting.


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## bigmuddyriver (May 29, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Good choice Tom. I don't believe that you will regret going bigger. None of us out-and-out mentioned that one of the primary reasons to have a wide and long bed was for flattening cupped lumber. One other tip: nothing beats a jointer for rabetting boards (rebate if you are English). A router comes in a very distant second. The jointer is faster to set up and leaves just as smooth a finish and is much faster cutting.


Chuck, I've never rabbeted with a jointer but anxious to give it a go.

Tom


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

bigmuddyriver said:


> Chuck, I've never rabbeted with a jointer but anxious to give it a go.
> 
> Tom


If you are only doing one, the router may be about as fast. For many, as in making shiplap joints the jointer is much faster. Remove the blade guard. Set the fence for the width of the rabbet (it helps if all the blades are lined up). Set the infeed for the depth of cut. Test it on some scrap first to get it right. It is difficult to make a second pass as the board is mostly registered on the infeed table. Once it is set you can do a foot every 2 to 4 seconds depending on wood species.


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## bigmuddyriver (May 29, 2011)

*Got it!*



Cherryville Chuck said:


> If you are only doing one, the router may be about as fast. For many, as in making shiplap joints the jointer is much faster. Remove the blade guard. Set the fence for the width of the rabbet (it helps if all the blades are lined up). Set the infeed for the depth of cut. Test it on some scrap first to get it right. It is difficult to make a second pass as the board is mostly registered on the infeed table. Once it is set you can do a foot every 2 to 4 seconds depending on wood species.


Got the jointer on Saturday and finished putting it together yesterday. Still have to check the setup but hope to be firing it up in a couple of days and making some lumber. I'm very happy with the quality and MAN was it heavy to unload! The only issue that I have is that the shaft on guard is a little tight and won't swing freely. Sent SWMBO to town to get some emory cloth and I think that will take care of it.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

bigmuddyriver said:


> Got the jointer on Saturday and finished putting it together yesterday. Still have to check the setup but hope to be firing it up in a couple of days and making some lumber. I'm very happy with the quality and MAN was it heavy to unload! The only issue that I have is that the shaft on guard is a little tight and won't swing freely. Sent SWMBO to town to get some emory cloth and I think that will take care of it.


Maybe check to see if there is "cosmoline" (that is probably very out dated) on the shaft. Sometimes parts like that are coated with an anti-rust coating. If there is a coating wash it off with paint thinner or varsol. If you do have to smooth it down, I would be more inclined to use 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper. Tens of thousands of an inch can make a difference. Maybe also just try swinging it back and forth for a couple of minutes to see if it loosens up. You don't want it to be stiff but it shouldn't be sloppy either.

I like heavy tools. Lots of steel means it can absorb stress and vibration without breaking. I have never regretted buying my 8" long bed and I'm sure you won't either.


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## amaonline (Jan 1, 2011)

Nice choice! I opted for the spiral head on my jointer and IMO it is superior in every way to the long blades. Really easy to change blades and no finicky blade adjustments. Get a nick and rotate a couple, right back to work. I have owned both and I will not go back.


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## 603Country (Dec 1, 2010)

I have a 6 inch jointer (Ridgid) and it's all I need most of the time. There are times however, that I'd really like an 8 inch machine. If I didn't have a jointer already, I'd buy the 8 inch version. And, now I've added a spiral carbide cutterhead to my jointer, and I'm extremely pleased. I bought the Grizzly cutterhead (it was on sale). Installation wasn't so tough, and the one thing that I really feared, which was a possible readjustment of the outfeed table, was not necessary. Bless those Grizzly people. So...I'd go for the 8 inch jointer with the spiral cutterhead.


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