# How I would do it.....



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Nick posted a question the other day on the best/safest way to cut a slot through a 3/4" X 3/4" piece of lumber.

I am a great fan of using the router table whenever I can but find that lowering a piece of lumber onto a spinning cutter a bit hairy.

This is the way I would do it.

1. Mill the lumber to 3/4" thick by (say) 6" x 24" (or any reasonable size).

2. Mark the edge of the timber with a line 3/4" from the edge and put start and stop lines for the length required. (9 ")

3. Mark the line for the required slot.

4. Using the slotting jig. with 1 1/2" guide bushing, 3/8" cutter cut the slot in multiple passes with router, in plunge mode, resting on the work piece.

5. Clamp as demonstrated. The center line on the jig lines up with the centre line of the slot.

6 Cut final piece on band saw or table saw.


The router in plunge mode is safe and there is no danger of the workpiece trying to take a holiday on the other side of the shed....... 

The jig is based on a jig shown by BJ some years ago.

This jig is designed for a 1 1/2" Oak Park guide bush but the jig can be made for any sized guide bush.

As a matter of fact, I am going to have to make a new one for the Makita 40mm guide bush, as the musclechuck will not fit through this guide bush and I had to put the original Makita collet back on to finish this job.

Some pics are attached.....


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

*Grooving Jig*

That's a good way James. This is the one I was suggesting if the pieces were already cut to 3/4 x 3/4 x 9". This would all attach to a scrap of ply, mdf, chipboard, etc. The spacers would leave an opening the width of the router base and additional spacers might be needed at the ends to control the length of the groove, either flush with the piece and the spacers or lying on top of the spacers and workpiece. It would also be a good idea to drill a finger hole under the workpiece to help get them back out of the jig.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Your method is just fine James but using 3/4" x 3/4" this is how I would do it now.


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

All good methods, so far.

I am glad my post solicited the response that it has.

That was the idea.........


----------



## Selwyn Senior (Jan 11, 2014)

James
I just did a build involving 20 mortices. The mortice slots went all the way through the 3/4 stock so they are similar to routering a slot. I used my table, fence, and 3/4 bit but before going to the router table I used a forstner bit to drill a 3/4 hole at each end of the slot. Then I was able to drop it over the bit with the stock held against the fence before starting the router. One pas from hole to hole and I had a nice clean slot.


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> All good methods, so far.
> 
> I am glad my post solicited the response that it has.
> 
> That was the idea.........


James...thanks so much for resurrecting my earlier post.

Having read all the generous responses and watching some videos I mixed all the ideas into one. The jig I am in the process of making started as a louvre / shutter jig. It expanded to be more adjustable to allow for different size and angle louvres for different size shutters. As a result of wanting something more "universal" to be able to mortise and slot/groove/dado it then naturally expanded to additional ability to adjust. I'm sure the drawing is explanatory enough but here goes:

A = width of the router base (square base would be better)
B = 1/4" material with cutout smaller than A so router base can ride on it
C = slotted material to accommodate adjustments for angled or straight slots (louvre slots, mortises, etc...)
D = 90 deg centerline mark

What is not on the drawing is an adjustable threaded rod at the base that would allow for fine adjustment of router travel. Gross adjustment would be had by slipping in an appropriately sized block in front of the adjusting rod and its block. Left and right stiles can be made by moving the adjustment to the opposite side of the jig. All that is required is an accurate angle gauge of any kind...with or without degree markings.

The jig is intended to be used with a vice that would sandwich the two base pieces and the material to be slotted. Depending on the size of the piece, table leg versus something as small as my adjustable fence, it could also rest on the two slotted base pieces. I'm sure I will find more uses for this than I can think of at this time (from the movie phrase "build it, they will come"). I will post pictures of the finished product when it's done.

My original post started with wanting to make an adjustable "featherboard" for pieces I would have to router standing on it's face edge and taller than a regular featherboard would allow. I put featherboard in quotes because it actually is not...it's more a fence (sort of like a resaw post). Pictures are also attached. I plan to round the face to cut down on vibration I noticed during my test runs. It works on my bandsaw and router tables. Also not original thought...I saw it in use by a gentleman in a video about a different topic so I scarfed up the idea.

Once again, thank you for the additional thought and to all for your responses. I hope my jig (which I'm sure is not original thought) may help others wanting the same functions.

Nick


----------



## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

I have never understood the fear of dropping a piece of wood over a spinning bit for slotting. First of all *never * on a bit over 1/4 inch. The secret is control of the wood. You need to be in absolute control. That requires you to have a firm grip by some kind of a positive handle firmly attached to the piece you are cutting. I prefer to use good double sided tape and something like these sanding pads.

Amazon.com: Allway Tools Soft Grip Handle Hand Sander: Home Improvement

At $5 each, I remove all metal from these and treat them as expendable items. On a narrow piece of wood, add another piece of wood the same thickness beside it on the pad, to stabilize everything. Use a block or featherboard in the miter slot for side adjustment, I prefer a solid block in the miter slot slightly after the bit for slotting.

You mark your starting and stop points. then you can safely lower the piece over the bit. You have full control of the wood at this point.

Anytime you do not have full control of the piece you are cutting, on any piece of equipment, you are just biding your time until trouble finds you.
dick


----------



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Willway said:


> I have never understood the fear of dropping a piece of wood over a spinning bit for slotting. First of all *never * on a bit over 1/4 inch. The secret is control of the wood. You need to be in absolute control. That requires you to have a firm grip by some kind of a positive handle firmly attached to the piece you are cutting. I prefer to use good double sided tape and something like these sanding pads.
> 
> Amazon.com: Allway Tools Soft Grip Handle Hand Sander: Home Improvement
> 
> ...


You are absolutely correct about my not feeling control over the piece which is why I stopped after the second attempt and found a different way. My mistake was not leaving the piece big enough to drop it and then cut it to size. At least I recognized I could not control the piece. If I learned anything from you guys and gals it's to recognize when I'm "not smarter than the object". 

Thanks for your interest in continuing my learning... much appreciated...

Nick


----------



## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Nick, glad we were able to help you out.

As you can see, there are many ways to achieve what you wanted.

As long as you select what is right for you and is safe...

I thought that was what the slot was for......


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Willway said:


> I have never understood the fear of dropping a piece of wood over a spinning bit for slotting. First of all *never * on a bit over 1/4 inch. The secret is control of the wood. You need to be in absolute control. That requires you to have a firm grip by some kind of a positive handle firmly attached to the piece you are cutting. I prefer to use good double sided tape and something like these sanding pads.
> 
> Amazon.com: Allway Tools Soft Grip Handle Hand Sander: Home Improvement
> 
> ...


There was a post a few months ago from someone who was trying to use their router to do cutoff instead of using a table saw. Near the end of the thread the poster revealed that he had had a table saw but had sold when he lost parts of a few fingers with it. He was ripping a short board using a Grripper at the time, something we have come to believe eliminates risk when ripping. Somehow the Grripper flipped upside down and he lost some finger parts. You may think that using the sanding block eliminates risk but it may only be mitigating it because wood is very unpredictable. Also people's skill sets differ. What one person may be able to get away with, others can't.

That's why I will never recommend to someone that they drop a board onto a spinning bit. Three simple, viable methods have been given to accomplish the same job that are as close to risk free as is possible. Why not use one of them? Why risk a life changing event?


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Some other solutions for guiding your router:
Mortise Centering Router Base - Rockler Woodworking Tools


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The problem with that jig compared to mine is that the router is balanced on the narrow piece of wood, it doesn't matter how big the sub-base is.


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Charles is spot on, it IS potentially dangerous to drop wood on to a spinning bit, full stop!


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Thanks for backing me up Harry. Safety is about eliminating unnecessary risk and managing the risk that you can't eliminate. The four methods that you, Mike, James, and I have given keep your hands on the router handles which is the safest place they can be.


----------

