# What's your favorite type glue? Brand?



## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

My jug of Titebond Yellow (probably PVA, but it was put in an old ketchup{catsup?} plastic bottle a while back so not sure) just gave its last gasp so I'll need to stop at my favorite big box store for a new supply. The yellow glues have some weather resistance I've found. But is a resorcinol type for another buck or two per bottle actually a better choice for all around use? I do have and use Gorilla foaming glues occasionally as well as epoxy(dislike) but they for sure aren't needed or wanted for inside work. Additionally, I'm not 'into' old time work and hide glues though appreciate those that do use it and successfully

Thanks !!!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I use Titebond III (the green bottle cap) for just about all my projects. It has the longest working time and yet sets up in 45 minutes. This glue is highly water resistant so it is a good choice for out door projects too.


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

I agree with Mike, Titebond III, for most things!


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Went to do my Friday morning town run around chores and I stopped in Home Depot. With a bottle each in my hands and said - 'I bet the answer from the Router guys will be the green' so 'sprung' for it. 

Thanks for the confirmation of anther "good decision":laugh:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Yellow glue by Franklin from their commercial line..
that's the company that makes Titebond...

costs about half of what Titebond does...


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Yellow PVA glue for all woodworking tasks.

2 part epoxy for other gluing jobs.


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## WayneMahler (May 17, 2012)

Titebond III is the only glue I use for my work. Well other then CNA for intarsia work. In my opinion, you made a good choice.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> costs about half of what Titebond does...


Nope - 16oz bottle was $7.49 vs $5.49 (of course, plus The State of Taxes, New York's 7% in my county). I'll probably pick up a small bottle of PVA as well, JIC.

Again, thanks, folks


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

IC31 said:


> Nope - 16oz bottle was $7.49 vs $5.49 (of course, plus The State of Taxes, New York's 7% in my county). I'll probably pick up a small bottle of PVA as well, JIC.
> 
> Again, thanks, folks


that must be retail...
been quite a while since I have had to go there....


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> that must be retail...
> ....


Unfortunately ...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

IC31 said:


> Unfortunately ...


sorry...
but it's still the same glue different bottle at a savings...


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I use different glues for different things. Titebond 3 for many things. I also like Weldbond and it dries clear. I've used Probond and it is very good. Tried resourcinol and didn't have good success with it (powder form mixed with water). I use polyurethane or fibreglass resin (the auto body stuff) when maximum water resistance is needed.

For gluing to very porous materials or to melamine I use Franklin's Melamine Glue. Excellent holding power. For gluing plugs where you don't want to see a glue line I use Lee Valley's fish glue. It stays water soluble forever so a little wipe gets rid of any excess. It's also good for gluing paper patterns onto jig material and for gluing sandpaper onto dowels for sanding curves. Damp it up a bit and the paper or sandpaper peels right off.

You can use one glue for almost everything but that doesn't mean it is the best choice.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Tight bond III I get it by the gallon at about 35.00 vs the pint bottles that are 9.97 X 8 or nearly 80.00 for a gallon. The shelf life is 24 months per their web page. My last gallon lasted about 15 months. It is available at Lowes but not Home Depot by the gallon.


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## gwizz (Mar 3, 2012)

Since I switched to Titebond III I would never consider going back to the yellow stuff. Somehow this glue doesn't seem to stain like the yellow stuff, and squeeze-out can be wiped away with a wet rag but missed spots can be chiseled away later, cleanly without leaving a mark.


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## wormil (Sep 6, 2012)

I've used a number of brands (and generics) of yellow glue and haven't noticed any difference between them although I haven't used Titebond III (I and II yes).


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## japa62 (May 9, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> For gluing plugs where you don't want to see a glue line I use Lee Valley's fish glue. It stays water soluble forever so a little wipe gets rid of any excess. It's also good for gluing paper patterns onto jig material and for gluing sandpaper onto dowels for sanding curves. Damp it up a bit and the paper or sandpaper peels right off.


Hadn't heard of Fish Glue before. Googled & Youtubed it and found some information (lot of guitar stuff) but not on your use above. Are there any photo's/videos around showing the use of fish glue with plugs? Your other uses I just will have to try


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## gwizz (Mar 3, 2012)

I understand that fish glue is the strongest of the wood glues used on instruments and fine / thin wood work, but very susceptible to moisture so the joint must never get wet afterwords ( I can't remember where I read that and have no personal experience with it )


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## Woodshaper67 (Jan 13, 2012)

I use all the differant Titebond wood glues.Each one has a different use.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

My choice is Titebond II; I'm quite happy with it. Not tried Titebond III, but maybe one day. 

Supposedly all of the modern wood glues are about the same, but I still prefer Titebond II.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

japa62 said:


> Hadn't heard of Fish Glue before. Googled & Youtubed it and found some information (lot of guitar stuff) but not on your use above. Are there any photo's/videos around showing the use of fish glue with plugs? Your other uses I just will have to try


Sorry, no pictures I can show you. As I said, it is 100% water soluble forever so it wipes completely up with a damp cloth. Lee Valley used to recommend it for blind nailing where you would use a narrow chisel to lift a sliver of wood, then drive a finishing nail under it and glue the sliver back down into place again. I've used it for that and it is virtually invisible. Because it is totally water soluble, when you wipe the squeeze out off it doesn't seal the wood pores and prevent stain from going in. It will readily let go if it gets too damp but if you apply a finish over it, (paint, urethane, etc.) it's not a problem.

It dries in about a minute so you can hold the parts together if you need to. I use it exclusively for gluing sandpaper to dowels and sanding blocks. You can peel off the worn out paper and use a wet cloth to clean off the rest. A few years back I bought a PC multi-profile sander with a bunch of contoured rubber attachments. I couldn't get adhesive backed sandpaper to stick to the profiles so I gave them a coat of fish glue and had no more problems. When I peeled the worn out paper off I would wipe the contour down and add a new coat.

Very handy glue for lots of different uses especially where you need to take it apart later.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Chuck..
In addition to your fish glue, which works very well, look to Uhu glue sticks...

All Purpose Adhesives - UHU The All Purpose Adhesive, UHU All Purpose Adhesive Twist & Glue, UHU Multi purpose Adhesive Twist & Glue


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## mark greenbaum (Sep 26, 2010)

On the Guitar Building Forums, the only glue to use is Titebond I, because it does not expand, and has been the standard in the industry, other than hide glue for some applications and purists. I stick (no pun intended) with Titebond I, because it does work very well. Just say no to Gorilla Glue of any variety.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

(as usual) Cherryville Chuck "nailed it" - actually he glued it! If you only need one kind of glue, then you're only doing one kind of project (as far as adhesion goes). I work on a huge variety of projects and use many types of glues - dependant on the individual project's needs. Some glues set too slow, others set too fast, some are instant grip, others are more forgiving, some are water-soluble, others are not. Fish glue is reportedly an extremely good glue for the correct application - but it is not recommended for boats!
If one finds themselves disappointed with glue joints, it is time to work on your skill set and do some homework on differing types of adhesives. Every glue has its draw-backs, and conversely; every glue type has some benefits. This is something that can be tried on scraps and make comparative tests with differing demands. One thing that I have noticed is that some glues create "lubricity" that in some cases becomes problematic unless _small part confinement_ is offered. Also (and I guarantee my friend Cherryville Chuck will agree here) there is the fact that GLUE STARVATION can be as big of a problem as the incorrect glue. With the proper glue, a correctly confined joint is easily possible; and remember: YOU CAN NEVER HAVE TOO MANY CLAMPS.
Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Yep, another case of, "What is the best ________?" There are as many answers as there are products and/or responses! For a good, general purpose, wood glue, it is hard to beat TiteBond III. Is it the best answer to every situation? Of course not. It's kind of a Chevy, Ford, Honda, Toyota thing! Or maybe a car, minivan, pickup truck, SUV thing:laugh:


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## Maverick70 (Jan 13, 2013)

What do you guys think of Gorilla Wood Glue? I bought a bought a bottle a couple months back and so far, I am really pleased with it. Just would like some additional input on what others think of it.

Thanks,
Maverick


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Maverick70 said:


> What do you guys think of Gorilla Wood Glue? I bought a bought a bottle a couple months back and so far, I am really pleased with it. Just would like some additional input on what others think of it.
> 
> Thanks,
> Maverick


not much...


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## belaire445 (Oct 21, 2012)

The best exterior glue I've used is the black resorcinol, 2 part, glue. It has the black liquid and powder. I believe it takes approximately 24 hours to cure, but it's worth it. I've laminated strips of wood for curved railings (exterior) many times and I've never had a joint open. I swear by this stuff, just don't get it on your hands, it's a ***** getting off.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Maverick70 said:


> What do you guys think of Gorilla Wood Glue? I bought a bought a bottle a couple months back and so far, I am really pleased with it. Just would like some additional input on what others think of it.
> 
> Thanks,
> Maverick


I still have a bottle, hardly used. Holds well, but It expands while it cures. I have to plan for how it works. I have to clamp it good so that it doesn't push a gap in the joint.

What do I use most? Titebond III. Like others, I use others, depending on the application.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

+1 to Mike (MAFoElffen). Gorilla glue is some amazingly tenacious glue, but PLAN AHEAD, or you may have some serious problems. It has worked quite well for me on the interiors of some of my snake cages, which are built-ins. I think you could use it to stick WD40 to KY Jelly, but there can be surprises if you haven't experimented with it and know what to expect. As Mike has iterated, it can make a joint give you some ugly results!
Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

I guess I got my answer(s) Titebond l, ll, lll along with an occasional dab of Gorilla Glue supplemented occasionally by some epoxy. Now, that too can take on a life of its own - 5 minute? 60 minute? Or??

Anyone up for some library paste? 

mmmmmm good, I remember it well


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

I use all types of glue one type is not good for all types of jobs and I use hot hide glue for some jobs..

Router Forums - View Single Post - Wanted Looking for glue pot

===


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

Gorilla glue and Gorilla wood glue... not the same thing! 

I have used it, don't really like it. I bought it at Walmart, may have been old stuff, but has a chalky whiteness that I did not like!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> Chuck..
> In addition to your fish glue, which works very well, look to Uhu glue sticks...
> 
> All Purpose Adhesives - UHU The All Purpose Adhesive, UHU All Purpose Adhesive Twist & Glue, UHU Multi purpose Adhesive Twist & Glue


The description reminds me of Duco which is a very good glue in a tube which is popular with traditional archers. We use it to glue feathers to arrow shafts and seal skin to the shelf on our bows where the arrow sits. Lots of other uses too.


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## Blooprints (Jan 19, 2013)

I just tried a hot glue last week and I was very impressed. You can put some on a piece of molding, like crown molding, and then press them together. You have about 3-5 seconds to make sure they are lined up and then it is stuck.
Faster is better!


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Depends.
Titebond III can leave a slight brownish line I'm told when glueing light colored wood.

We used Titebond II for this project (curly maple)


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

I have used Titebond for years, #2 for indoor #3 for outdoor. The last glue I bought is the new Gorilla Wood Glue ($5.97 for 18 oz. at Home Depot) and I may be switching to it entirely. It is a indoor and outdoor PVA and sets in 20 min. Color is light and blends well and easy cleanup. Harbor Freight sells the same 18oz for $9+, HD is the best price I have found anywhere.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

OPG3 said:


> Every glue has its draw-backs, and conversely; every glue type has some benefits. This is something that can be tried on scraps and make comparative tests with differing demands. One thing that I have noticed is that some glues create "lubricity" that in some cases becomes problematic unless _small part confinement_ is offered. Also (and I guarantee my friend Cherryville Chuck will agree here) there is the fact that GLUE STARVATION can be as big of a problem as the incorrect glue. With the proper glue, a correctly confined joint is easily possible; and remember: YOU CAN NEVER HAVE TOO MANY CLAMPS.
> Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


Thanks Otis. I have a good friend who went out and bought a pile of pipe clamps so he could get more pressure on his glue joints. I had to break the bad news to him. The melamine glue I recommended says on the bottle that a few brad nails is adequate clamping pressure.

I'm glad BJ mentioned hide glue. It was the go-to wood glue until they figured out how to make a liquid glue in a bottle and it fell out of favor. I've seen some very old furniture made with hide glue that had incredible holding power. I tried taking an old cabinet apart once and only got firewood.

Obviously the original question about which glue do you use was a good one but a better one might be what glues do you use for different jobs.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> not much...


Same here.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

I think my bottle of Gorilla Glue must have taken a Viagra - and it stayed like that for more than four hours! Unless something special is necessary, I probably will not replace it. BJ had a great point about the hide glue! Old technology, but very effective. My Dad was a big believer in hide glue and to this day, I cannot remember anything he built coming apart.
Otis


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