# Removing Plastic Protective Coating on Bits



## Steven Owen (Aug 14, 2017)

I notice the bits I’ve ordered from Infinity tools come with a clear plastic coating on them for protection in shipping. What is the best method for removing the plastic protective coating from router bits?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Is this the same rubbery stuff that carbide saw teeth are dipped in? In the case of the saw teeth, I know guys that leave it on, mount the blade, and make a cut in scrap wood. Problem solved...apparently. :0


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I usually peel off the protective coating with a thumbnail. I don't know if the coating on Infinity bits is any different than anyone elses bits.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Pocketknife does it for me.


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## Steven Owen (Aug 14, 2017)

DaninVan said:


> Is this the same rubbery stuff that carbide saw teeth are dipped in? In the case of the saw teeth, I know guys that leave it on, mount the blade, and make a cut in scrap wood. Problem solved...apparently. :0


It should be. You can’t run a router bit and remove it that way because it can damage the bit. I know some people use a utility knife to gentely remove it. Always thought there would be a liquid or spray you could apply to dissolve the coating.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I've heard that you can collect and reheat and reuse it but have never tried it. That would imply that it can be melted off with a heat gun.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Every one I have ever has been so soft it can be peeled off with a thumbnail in seconds.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Yup -- the peeling thing works for me too.


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

Sometimes the rubber can be fairly hard.

I use a small awl, and slide it down the inside of the flute from the shank end. After that, it'll usually pop right off in one piece.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Depending on the cutter I would either peel from the shaft down to the cutter keeping in mind the cutter are sharp. It's the same coating that comes on Forest blades and intended as a protective covering. On my rail and stile set from Whiteside (they also use this coating) it came off is several pieces. Trying to make a cut with it intack is foolish in my opinion. You don't want stuff flying around the shop and that would come off in pieces and be flung at the speed of the router. Seems reckless to me.........but that's just me.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Knife cut from the shaft, up one side (away from the cutter), then peel it off with my fingers.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*What Could Go Wrong?*



sreilly said:


> Depending on the cutter I would either peel from the shaft down to the cutter keeping in mind the cutter are sharp. It's the same coating that comes on Forest blades and intended as a protective covering. On my rail and stile set from Whiteside (they also use this coating) it came off is several pieces. Trying to make a cut with it intack is foolish in my opinion. You don't want stuff flying around the shop and that would come off in pieces and be flung at the speed of the router. Seems reckless to me.........but that's just me.


Steve; I wasn't _recommending _that 'process', just mentioning it as an unusual solution. I wouldn't do it either, but as a general observation I don't believe there's any risk involved (for router bits); a bit of rubble for sure. What you have is a very soft shreddable material caught between Carbide and hardwood. (Not unlike one's fingers).
I may even try it just to see if it actually works...


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

I am a fingernail guy myself. However, you try and get it off you will not have a problem.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

DaninVan said:


> Steve; I wasn't _recommending _that 'process', just mentioning it as an unusual solution. I wouldn't do it either, but as a general observation I don't believe there's any risk involved (for router bits); a bit of rubble for sure. What you have is a very soft shreddable material caught between Carbide and hardwood. (Not unlike one's fingers).
> I may even try it just to see if it actually works...


Video please if you do
:wink:


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Slo-mo?


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

I've been reading that a sewing seam ripper works perfectly for this. you definitely don't want to get cut trying to do this with a nail or your fingers!..


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

radios said:


> I've been reading that a sewing seam ripper works perfectly for this. you definitely don't want to get cut trying to do this with a nail or your fingers!..


An Exacto knife is worth a try then.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

I do not understand why any instrument more sophisticated or less accessible than a fingernail is needed to remove the protective coating.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Tom; some of us keep our fingernails really short.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

DaninVan said:


> Tom; some of us keep our fingernails really short.


Good point Dan, but it has always worked for me, even when my nails are short. I am concerned hat anything metallic could damage the bit, especially the carbide.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*The Cutting Rdge*



TWheels said:


> Good point Dan, but it has always worked for me, even when my nails are short. I am concerned hat anything metallic could damage the bit, especially the carbide.


Tom, its not quite _that_ fragile...


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

DaninVan said:


> Tom, its not quite _that_ fragile...


 @DaninVan, Is this carbide the same as that on wood working router bits?


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

TWheels said:


> @DaninVan, Is this carbide the same as that on wood working router bits?


Yup, the same as router bits drill bits, saw blades,planer blades, milling machine cutter heads. I hate getting that stuff under my thumb nails. and I have cut myself getting it off straight router bits.

It is better than the plastic they used to dip the cutters onto had a really sour oder.
Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Tom; I think this fragility concept likely came about through cutters being dropped onto concrete, and saw blades hitting nails/screws. Pretty sure its the loose metal debris banging around in the saw cut that does the damage.
And indeed, it has happened to me; very unpleasant not to mention expensive experience.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

My late father in law decided he was going to trim something that had 23 gauge pin nails in it with my brand new industrial quality Freud glue line rip blade. It took numerous chips out of the teeth. I found out when I went to use it and wondered why it wasn't cutting very well. I was extremely unhappy and then he was too when I made him replace it at a cost of $105. He was banned from my shop after that.

I would have thought that the blade would have been able to cut through something as small as that but not so.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Maybe someone has a definitive explanation from a Carbide tool source? I'd love to know the reason why that happens. Maybe something to do with the geometry of a woodworking tooth design?
I mean, seriously???
:0

https://www.amazon.ca/Bosch-HC2011B...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000WA53LO


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Maybe someone has a definitive explanation from a Carbide tool source? I'd love to know the reason why that happens. Maybe something to do with the geometry of a woodworking tooth design?
> I mean, seriously???
> :0
> 
> https://www.amazon.ca/Bosch-HC2011B...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000WA53LO



Right on, Dan...! You would think that if they can add carbide on bits to go through concrete, rock, brick and pavers, it would be a no-brainer to use the same stuff on woodworking whirly things...CHEEEZ...

You can throw those bits on the ground, all bunched together in a canvas bag but we need to make individual holes to store router bits...

Let's protest somewhere... :grin:


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Nobody pays any attention to my protests...


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

Herb Stoops said:


> Yup, the same as router bits drill bits, saw blades,planer blades, milling machine cutter heads.



There are lots of different grades of carbide. Some are tougher, and some are more brittle. You really don't want anything steel touching your carbide cutters.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Most machine shop cutters are carbide tipped. I think it has to do with cutting angles ground onto cutter as to how well they work for their purpose. I have cut 16d nails with a carbide table saw blade and it didn't do any damage, but drywall screws are a different story. Finish nails and brads don't seem to slow down a carbide saw blade, Never hit any metal with a router bit. I have routered brass and aluminum before, and cut aluminum on the tables saw and miter saw.

Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

ger21 said:


> There are lots of different grades of carbide. Some are tougher, and some are more brittle. *You really don't want anything steel touching your carbide cutters*.


Ger; the Diamond grit sharpening cards are mounted on steel plate. I'll go along with not banging into steel obstacles, but as I previously argued, this whole fragility thing is being exaggerated.
Until I hear from a Carbide tool manufacturer I remain highly dubious. Having said that, _my_ bits and blades aren't being abused...call me a hypocrite >


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

You guys/gals might find this of interest...


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## ger21 (Feb 10, 2019)

If all carbide was the same, than $3 Chinese bits would work just as good as Whiteside bits. >


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You can change what they are brazed on with too and have an effect on how much impact they can take. Some hard surfacing welding rods are meant to welded over the top of a cushioning layer laid down by a different rod first for example.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Youse Gets Whats Youse Pays For*



ger21 said:


> If all carbide was the same, than $3 Chinese bits would work just as good as Whiteside bits. >


Ah, and that may well be the origin of this extreme caution re router bits! Like many others here I avoid Chinese tooling. Taiwan I'm a little more inclined towards, and Japanese, no issues with.
In any case I'm not suggesting anyone should just chuck their router bits into a tool box along with their pipe wrenches.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> You can change what they are brazed on with too and have an effect on how much impact they can take. Some hard surfacing welding rods are meant to welded over the top of a cushioning layer laid down by a different rod first for example.


I didn't know that!


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