# Home Renovation



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I have started a major renovation in my home. I have a number of projects on the go at the moment. They include: Replacing all interior doors, gas fireplace and built in cabinets.

It is too late now but I will post the doors tomorrow and what I have done on the fireplace.

Stay tune


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

That will keep you busy until the snow goes away?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

You bet James I have been busier than a one arm coat hanger of late.


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## david_de (Jun 3, 2013)

Looking forward to the progress reports and pictures.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Carpet Removal*

My first task was to remove the carpet. It was a lovely shade of rose. I want lie to you when I say I was eager to have it out of the house. To remove the carpet I did it in sections.

Doing this project in the winter time meant I could not move things outside temporarily unless of course I wanted to freeze my furniture and myself in the process. So instead I just moved the couches over to one side of the living room while I worked on removing the carpet.

The room measures 16 feet x 30 feet. This includes the front entry where I had some old dated tile in front of the entry closet. I rented a Bosh Hammer drill with a chipper mode to help remove the old tile. This was a good investment and the tile came off very quickly. Once the tile was removed I found Linoleum (lino) underneath. 

The lino was starting to flake so rather than worry about the base I decided to remove it as well. I went out an bought a large scrapper. This scrapper looked like it was totally jacked on steroids and a few times I did experience bouts of steroid rage!

In deciding the layout of the tile I went to my goto TOOL ...... SKETCHUP. I measured the floor and then drew it on the computer (PC). If anyone has not seen or heard of this free software tool I encourage you to check it out. SketchUp | 3D for Everyone

I went to Tile Town in Edmonton and picked out some tile for the floor. I decided to make a border on the outside edge where the hardwood butts up to the tile. I wanted a smooth transition so this meant having to build the floor up to allow for the height difference between the tile and the hardwood.

Once all the old tile was removed I then bought some 3/8 plywood and glued and screwed it to the floor. You may be asking how did I know where to end the plywood so the tile would be spaced evenly, well all I did was go back to my drawing I did in Sketchup and consult the drawing to get a measurement.

I have attached the sketchup drawing for you to look at. I allowed for 3/16" spacing for the grout lines and drew the tile in using this spacing. I measured the tile exactly and transferred the measurements into Sketchup to place the tile. I wanted a unique floor with some character so I decided to place two tiles of a different color in the center. Again in Sketchup I was able to play around with this and see what looked best for me.

Have a look at the pictures to see what I started with and what it ended up looking like.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Stair tread removed*

I had to run the gas line for the fireplace but I had to first remove the stair thread. Initially I was going to conceal the gas line inside the tread but opted to run it along the ceiling in the basement directly beneath. As it turns out this was the better option.

The gas line comes out at the base of the stair along the outside wall. A pony wall will be constructed to separate the living room from the dining room. The other function it will serve is to allow a corner bench to be built for the dining room and allow the cabinets to but up against.By doing this I will not have to finish the cabinets on the outside because the sides will border the pony wall and the fireplace.

Here are a few more pictures.

Next I will show the tile going in the front entry.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Front Entry Floor Tile job*

Took some pictures of the tile job pretty straight forward. Just had to take my time and measure twice and cut once.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Front Entry lighting*

The old light we had was well old and dated. It was time to change out the light with a new light. I wanted something that helped to highlight the floor and shed some light on the subject.:yes4:

Do not buy your lights from a lighting store. Reason they have huge windows on the front of the store is so they can see you coming from a mile away. case in point, we went to a few speciality lighting stores and looked at a number of lights and literally went blind.

We did find one light we liked but with a price tag over $500 I was not in a hurry to buy it. Later that week I was picking a few things up in Costco and went down the home decor aisle. Low and behold there was the exact same light we looked for %562.00. The only difference was this light was priced at $96.00 yes that's right $96.00. It took me less time than it does for a pig to shake his tail to take one and place it in my cart. 


Saved over $450 heck how can anyone turn a deal like that down!

Anyhow here is the light. It takes two people to install this light. A tall ceiling is a must to get the affect of the hanging lights. After some careful measuring we got it installed and boy did it light my life up!


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## BCK (Feb 23, 2014)

nice job


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Framing the fireplace opening*

Once I had the floor done I started to frame in the fireplace. I first drew this up in google sketchup and had a really good idea how to frame it.

Once I found the center between the pony wall I built and the corner I then located the wall studs. I had to deviated from center slightly to allow for the chimney to be vented without having to cut any structural 2x4's.

Prior to framing the fireplace I had to find one. We went to a number of places and I have to say the old saying, "It pays to shop around" still holds true. Recall the light well the same thing happen with the fireplace.

We wanted one to be efficient and look good but still not break our budget. One fireplace store wanted $4,500 for a unit and after going to a number I had a place recommended from a guy at work. Next day we went there and really liked the salesman. He was not pushy and knew his product. In the end we walked out with a unit for $1,200. I got contractors pricing and it helped immensely. I have to tip my hat and salute Gemco Fireplaces in Edmonton they were very helpful and priced right.

We went with a 87% efficiency rated gas fireplace. We opted for the reflective panels to help reflect the heat outwards. I also bought a thermostat for it to allow us to heat the large floor space without having the furnace kicking in to heat the remainder of the house. It also came with an anti condensation switch which was a piece of garbage. The electrical connectors were terrible and cheap. I ended up taking it out because of poor connection problems. I later called to complain and they agreed with me. 

The opening of the fireplace was protected by using drywall corner bead. After installing the bead I put two coats of heat rated mud and then spray painted it black to match the fireplace.

The walls on the side are 1/2" drywall and the front has 1/4" Hardi Backer board. I went with the cement board because I will be installing cultured stone. When I called the manufacturer direct and confirmed with an email I can apply the stone directly over the cement board without having to put a scratch coat on first with metal mesh. I will talk more about the wall later in a separate post.

The other thing I had to consider is the lighting over the fireplace. We had no lighting an I wanted accent lighting for art work and to help highlight the fireplace. This will be the center focal point in the room and I wanted to to look good. This meant having to run a circuit for the lights as well for the fireplace. We went with three lights using 50 watt halogen bulbs. We also ran a few additional power plugs as well.

Here are some more pictures to show the progress I have made.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

My gosh, Dan. At my age, I am getting tired just watching you go....LOL

Keep up the slide show......


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## denniswoody (Dec 11, 2011)

This is bringing back some fond and not so fond memories of our renovations. Especially taking up lino. That was hard work! I also remember being amazed at the dirt under the carpets when I lifted them out. 
Keep posting Dan it's fun to watch.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

denniswoody said:


> This is bringing back some fond and not so fond memories of our renovations. Especially taking up lino. That was hard work! I also remember being amazed at the dirt under the carpets when I lifted them out.
> Keep posting Dan it's fun to watch.


Ya its fun but your right about the carpet and the dirt it contains. I was amazed at how much was underneath. I made sure I was wearing a N95 dust mask when I took it out.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Framing the fireplace Opening Part II*

Here are the remaining pictures on the framing of the fireplace.

I also took some pictures of the gas line and where it started in the furnace room. 

I had the gas fitter install isolation valves for the fireplace and a gas stove I intend to install next summer when I do phase two of the renovation - Kitchen/Dinning Room.

I included pictures of the drywall and mudding and taping I had to do. 

I figured the painting was boring but you will see the color when I get to the trim around the fireplace.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Fireplace Tile Job*

Here are some pictures of the tile I laid in front of the fireplace. I went with the same tile I laid in the front entry. The tile is at the same height as the wood floor that will be installed next month.

I showed the metal corner bead around the fireplace opening and how I finished the inside corners of the fireplace. I took my time on framing the opening as I wanted a thin reveal around the fireplace that was even all the way around.

There are some pictures of the venting for the fireplace as well. This was one of the most nerve racking parts thus far for me. I have never done this before and I was a little nervous. I must have read the installation manual ten times before I decided I was confident on proceeding on cutting the hole.

At -25 Celsius I did not want to cut the hole for the vent in the wrong spot. As it turns out I was bang on and I guess I got lucky. :dance3:


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Exterior Venting Fireplace*

Here are the remaining pictures of the vent on the outside of the north exterior wall.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Mantel*

Changing gears now I went into the shop for the fun stuff. After going to Gary Shannon's Hardwood which by the way is the best place I have seen yet for hardwood. Not only is the quality and price good so is the variety of species of wood he carries.

I ended up walking out of their $1000 poorer but happy with the load of wood in my truck. I bought all the Hickory for the fireplace mantel, face frame for the cabinets as well as the trim around the fireplace. 

I got enough I hope to complete the kitchen as well when the time comes. 

Gary even had Hickory plywood and I said why not and this material is 3/4" and will be used to build the cabinets on either side of the fireplace.

Oh the other thing I should mention is the mantel is two pieces of 8/4 glued together. It has mass and is breath taking to work with and look at it. 

I decided to attach the mantel using 3/8" lag screws. I knew I would have a glue line to contend with so I thought the best way to deal with it was to cut a dado down the center glue line and use this dado to recess my lag screws in.

When I measured the size of the 3/8" washers they turned out to be the same size as the 7/8 forester bit I had. Rather then over drill the hole and distort the proportion I was looking at ( width of dado vs over thickness of mantel) I decided to grind down the washers to fit the forester bit I intended to drill.

I went to my goto tool in the shop..... VICE grips! Have a look and see how I made it fit.

The dado has a piece of leftover Walnut and I used 98% of it and liked not wasting anything. I guess my hoarding ways pay off in the end.

I used biscuits to help line up the two pieces I glued together. The biscuits help the piece stay in place while gluing up otherwise they tend to move around on you when you try clamping them.

The tricky part was cutting the notch out of the Mantel. To do this I went to the band saw but first cut an opening using my jig saw. Once I had it cut I used hand planes to remove saw marks and planed the faces down to the line I had scribed. The second piece was cut in a similar fashion and using a hand plane and wood scraper I got it to match the first piece. I must say the skill I have acquired using a wood scraper has been put to good use. I find the Hickory tears easy and with the wood scraper you avoid a lot of this issue. 

I used the framing to help support this heavy mantel. It worked very well and I am happy with the design I came up with in the end. Again if it were not for sketchup I am not sure what I would of came up with.

I finished the wood with Polymerized Tung Oil from Lee Valley. Polymerized Tung Oil - Lee Valley Tools


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Mantel Part II*

Prior to cutting the dado I first drilled three holes where I wanted the lag screws to go. The mantel was too big for my shop and myself to handle on the drill press table so I opted to drill it by using a hand drill. To ensure I was square and in the center I made a simple rough drilling jig out of scraps of 2x4 I had leftover after the framing was complete.

Once the holes were drilled I then used this as a reference to cut the dado and centred the dado cut over the holes. The other thing I had to account for was the depth of the dad and the counter bore hole to recess the bolt head as well as the washer. 

I took my time and took measurements and it all worked out perfectly. Well maybe not perfect because I like to say, "you can never attain perfection, .... you can only strive for it" and strive I DID! 

The trim on the top and bottom was glued together first using biscuit joints as well. I wanted to minimize the amount of brad nailing I had to do. Once the pieces were cut to length I do all my biscuit cutting on the table saw by using the mitre slot as a stop with a piece of wood I wedge in. It is simple and fast and the table saw cast iron top provides a flat work surface to reference the work piece on.

I have the cabinets cut and will now show you how I finish and assemble them.

I must not forget to thank Gerry Gould for sending the locking bars for my Delta Planer TP305. If it were not for Gerry I would be dead in the water so THANK YOU GERRY! For those of you who do not know I had bent my locking bars and Delta no longer ships to Canada so I had to ship the parts to Gerry first who in turn forwarded them to me. 

Thanks a million Gerry for your time and effort!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Interior Doors*

I replaced all the interior doors in the house with what I was told was a solid core door. The doors are made from maple and are in a Shaker style.

Initially I was going to build the doors myself but when I saw the price of a new door at $107.00 there was no way I could make the door for that price so I opted to purchase them.

Like any project you always encounter a few hiccups. The first hiccup was the cost of the door. When I went to buy the doors they told me the price tag was marked incorrectly at $107.00. I asked them to talk it over while I went to the washroom and explained I had shopped around and was told from a previous employee the price was correct. The sign which I have taken a picture clearly stated $107.00 (How I love my cell phone)

When I returned we agreed on the cost which ended up being their cost... $156.00. Still at this price I was hard pressed to say no so I bought enough doors to replace all three bedrooms (30" door), Front Entry Closet Doors (2) @ 24", (1) Linen closet @ 18" and (1) Main Bathroom door @ 28".

I ran into a major problem when it came to cutting down the bathroom door. My initial plan was to trim 1" from each side of a 30" door to allow it to fit into the existing opening of 28". I was surprised to see particle board when I made the first rip one of the sides of the door. Having already made the cut I had no choice to make two more rip cuts. 

The solution to my problem meant cutting the door narrower to allow me to glue back the factory edge which had the maple finish I needed. Next came the arduous task of gluing the two edges back onto the door. After a lot of messing around I got the sides glued back on and clamped. The next day I went out to the shop and removed the clamps and proceeded to use a wood scraper and cleaned the glue lines. I made some wood putty from the maple saw dust I had in my palm sander and filled the small lines as best I could. So much for saving time but oh well what could I do?

Once I got the clamps off and sanded it back down after filling the holes I was very pleased withe the result. The other idea I came up with to help secure the hinge side was to use 3" screws to secure the glued on piece when re-installing the hinges. All in all it turned out ok.

Here are pictures showing what I did with a brief explanation.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Interior Doors Part II*

Here are a few more pictures of the doors. I will add some pictures of the door when the hardwood floor is installed as well. SOrry I see I forgot to load the pictures on the flash drive so this will have to wait.

Each door took me about 1 hr 45 min to install. The doors were heavy to take on and off by myself but it was a good workout. I won't lie to you I was a little sore then next day in the shoulders but hey it was fun.

The other thing I want to mention was the door hinge jigs they sell. I look at the professional ones made by Porta Cable and Bosch. With a price tag of $499 it was tough to buy one when I knew it was just as easy to use the method I know is tried and true. 

Two of mt existing door jambs had to be tweaked because why hang a new door in an old out of plumb jamb!

Hope you enjoy the read and follow me through my journey of home renovations.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Closet Doors*

I installed two closet doors 24" to replace the old doors. I bought some hardware from Windsor Plywood to hang the doors. 

I built s small jig to rout the door pulls. All I had to do with the doors is cut the bottom and install the rollers and a divider on the floor. I had to drill throgh the floor tile to install this and broke my diamond bit. 

I still need to apply a finish to the doors and decided on General Finish 56Z16.05

General® Water-Based Varnishes - Lee Valley Tools

Tomorrow I will be pre-finishing the cabinet sides and then assembling them. I will have to mill some more Hickory for the face frames


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Shelf Pin Hole Jig*

I drilled the shelf pin holes for the cabinets. I went online and found a easy jig to make and made one to do the job. It worked great and I highly recommend this jig to anyone who needs to drill holes. 

I use a 1/4" upcut spiral bit. It allows you to drill crisp clean holes with ease using your router and 2 quick clamps.

Go here to watch a detailed video by John who shows you how to build one and use it:

Making A Shelf Pin Jig - YouTube

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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Finishing Cabinets*

I went to Lee Valley and picked up some water based varnish which can be applied using a foam brush. General® Water-Based Varnishes - Lee Valley Tools

I will be putting three coats on the cabinets. The instructions state to put on a minimun of three coats. I will put two on the inside and see how it looks and feels. I will apply at least three to the top for sustained durability.

Here are a few shots of the process.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great progress, Dan..


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> I went to Lee Valley and picked up.




That is soooooooooooooooooooo not fair!!!!!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> That is soooooooooooooooooooo not fair!!!!!


Considering you have Woodcraft, Rockler and Harbour Freight who all ship direct with free shipping I may add I do think this makes us even Bill. :sold:

I am planning on retiring on Salt Spring Island some day and in Victoria they have a Lee Valley so I will still be able to get my fix and buy things there. They do ship as well but nothing beats going in and just browsing while sipping on a coffee and see what is in the store.

I put on three coats of varnish on the cabinets, might as well make it durable to last a life time right? I also milled to thickness some more hickory and made all the face frame material. I just need to rip it to width and length but will wait till the cabinets are assembled.

I really would recommend this varnish to anyone who is looking to try something new. It is very easy to apply and work with. For an idiot like me who does not like the finishing part it is a great finish. In between coats, I have been giving the surfaces a light sanding by hand with 400 grit sandpaper.Once I have sanded the surfaces, I go back and use the shop vac with a brush on the end to pick up all the dust. While I am sanding and working I turn on the air filter unit to make sure I get rid as much airborne dust as possible.

In the shop vac I installed a dry bag and put on a high efficiency filter to minimize the dust being exhausted by the shop vac. This seems to help and the finish has gone on without any major hiccups which I am just fine with.

Well these cabinets will not come together on their own so I best get back out there and assembled the cabinets.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

I dunno Dan... 

Not a big HF fan at all.... my local Rockler (1hr away) has become a gadgets and dodad's vendor and generally overpriced. Woodcraft is a good 4 hrs away (sighs) I can only imagine the buyers remorse I would have to endure after the wife found out I spent a weekend in a Lee Valley store *LOL* ...ohh it wouldn't be pretty

The General Finishes product you used was one I researched when looking for a finish for my rocker build. I really did not find anything bad to be said about it. I decided to go with Rocklers Maloof poly/oil finish in the end. Its good to hear a first hand account of another product that comes in a much more versatile product line. Durability was/is a big consideration for me and this one fit the bill as well. Another nice thing is that should the need arise, touch-ups/repairs are no big deal.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I agree Bill I am just teasing you. In all honesty I find stores like Busy Bee Tools and such to be gadget stores. The quality is not up to snuff for me and the staff have no clue about what they are selling.

I look forward to going to Lee Valley because the staff generally know what they are talking about and are more then willing to help you find what it is your looking for. The other candy store for me in Edmonton is KMS tools and Marson Equipment. Both are in the west end of the city and hence the nickname I have given it, "The Bermuda Triangle" . Its tough travelling in that part of town. I always wonder what is wrong with the truck as it suddenly pulls into Lee Valley or Marson Equipment. :sold:

Today I ripped a bunch of Hickory into 2" wide strips to use as face frame on the two cabinets. I also will use it for the doors when I get to building them next week. Today I finished the cabinet 1/4" panel in the back. I applied two coats of finish on the inside.

I did another dry fit and being satisfied with what I had I then took it apart and glued it up. I used #8 - 3/4" wood screws to attach the back panel. I have two wall outlets I need expose in the inside of the cabinet if I need to I can easily remove the back. This will entail some precise measurements when I cut the panel to allow access to the power outlet.

I will attach the face frames with #10 biscuits to the cabinet to avoid and nail holes. The face frame is 2" in width and I will inset them 1/4" on each side. The stiles on the door will be 2" wide as well. The bottom and fixed shelf will be cover using a strip of 3/4" hickory. I managed to use the wood leftover from the mantel. If you recall I started with a 2" thick x 11" wide board and had to notch the mantel out to allow it to wrap around the corner. The two pieces I had left over were ripped in half on the band saw and planed to a 3/4" thickness thus not wasting anything.

The back panel is beautiful with lots of grain pattern. When I cut the piece of plywood for the back I made sure I centred the grain to the cabinet so it looks balanced. The varnish really brought out the grain and I am very pleased with the end result.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Great watching you work Dan.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Attaching Face Frames*

I had initially planned on attaching the face frames using #10 biscuit. I wanted to make sure I had a tight joint between the cross members (rails stiles). To pull it in tight I thought why not use pocket screws. After trying just one I found the hickory was splitting so I went with Plan B and just used biscuits and glue. 

I glued up the two outside pieces (vertical) first and clamped them in place. I left this to dry over night and in the morning I cut to size the 3/4" pieces to ensure I had a tight fit. I figured it was better to wait till the face frame on the outside was glued in place to avoid any possibility of the face frame moving when I cut the horizontal pieces. These pieces are a tight fit and makes for a better butt joint.

I used a scrap piece of melamine to mark out the biscuit slots. Tape was used to avoid marking the finished pieces.

I have taken a few pictures to show what and how I did it.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Edge Banding Bits*

I bought a set of edge banding bits since I use plywood a lot to build cabinets. I opted for a set made by Woodpecker which is made by Dimar.

The bits have 1/2" shanks and work great once you have them setup properly. Some of the things you should be aware of are:

1) Make sure the hardwood banding is slightly thicker then the plywood. In my case I had 3/4" plywood so I made the wood banding 13/16".
2) Fine adjustments are necessary for a god fit. This is where the router lift comes in handy for making these fine adjustments ( 1/32")
3) Tape alone does not ensure I tight fight clamps are still needed.
4) Wood must be bent and if bowed place bowed surface toward the plywood.

Took a few shots for you with a brief how and why.

Mike how did your edge banding bits work for you?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Door Build*

Once the cabinet was built and the face frame was glued on I was able to make the doors. I took the finished opening and drew it in Google Sketchup. My initial drawing in Sketchup had the face frames flush to the inside so I had to redraw the doors with a 1/16" reveal all the way around.

I purchased a special router bit set for making rails and stiles. The set I have are made by Freud (Model # 99-036) and come with 1/2" shank. Both bits are adjustable for the various thicknesses of plywood. I wanted the latitude of being able to custom fit a door if required and this set affords this luxury. Freud # 99-036 Adjustable Tongue & Groove Bit Set, 1-3/4" Dia. x 7/32" ~ 3/8" H x 1/2" Sh. - Rockler Woodworking Tools

To help me cut the stub tenons I made a very simple Cope Sled. I am a firm believer in the KISS approach. The sled took me about an hour to buyild and I am very pleased with how it performs. I had a set of toggle clamps from my old drill press table and thought this was a perfect opportunity to make use of these clamps. Once the clamps are in place the wooden rail does not move. It took me all of three minutes to cut the rails and stiles. It is my first time cutting the rails and stiles like this. sPrior to having this bit set I used my table saw and dado blade. I must admit this is much easier and quicker. :yes4:


I have never built cabinets with face frames so I was not sure what type of hinge to use. I have always used standard European hinges Blum with a 35mm cup hole and a 95 degree opening. 

I did find a pair of hinges for inset doors 00B18.13 Blum 110° Soft-Close Clip-Top Hinges - Lee Valley Tools

I decided on the "Full Wrap Around" in Nickel. I am not sure if the European hinge will work on a face frame set out by 1/4" all the way around. The doors will be inset and not overlay. Perhaps others can help me out here and share their experience with me. 

Wrap Inset Hinges - Lee Valley Tools

I will have to disassemble the doors and finish the panel, rail and stiles prior to gluing the doors up. I also have to cut a filler piece for the right side and add some additional moulding to the bottom to cover the 2xs4 base I made as well as the top. 

The top will be a piece of plywood with some wood edging which will allow me to use a hand plane to get a snug fit against the side walls and back. 

I will also have to cut the plywood in the back to gain access to the power outlet. I will post some more pictures on how I do this when I get a chance.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Look at that shop!! Sawdust everywhere, tools all about, wood leaning against everything, cords and cables strewn about, works in progress taking up valuable space... geeesh...

Now thats what I'm talkin' about!!!!

:sold:

great project thread


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

It definitely has that "come on in and make something" look to it.


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## BCK (Feb 23, 2014)

the fit is very important since it and the glue is all that holds the doors together, here is a guide to adjust the spacers for a tight fit...hope this helps..the brand name has nothing to do with it..will be the same for your bits...coincidence..this is one of the raised panel cabinet doors I built today..

Resources :: Rail and Stile Setup Guide


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Look at that shop!! Sawdust everywhere, tools all about, wood leaning against everything, cords and cables strewn about, works in progress taking up valuable space... geeesh...
> 
> Now thats what I'm talkin' about!!!!
> 
> ...


LOL yes Bill its a bit of a disaster at the moment. However, has any good red neck would say, "Get er done" !

I so need a bigger shop and most of all somewhere to store material. This may be added to my to do list but I plan on moving in 2 years so why bother. My new shop will be 1500 sq ft.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

BCK said:


> the fit is very important since it and the glue is all that holds the doors together, here is a guide to adjust the spacers for a tight fit...hope this helps..the brand name has nothing to do with it..will be the same for your bits...coincidence..this is one of the raised panel cabinet doors I built today..
> 
> Resources :: Rail and Stile Setup Guide


Cool thanks for the link. I need to find some thinner spacers from what was provided by Freud. 

P.S. BC is that short for British Columbia or in reference to your age "Before Christ" I pray it is.:fie:

All kidding aside I think it will be ok, I think the glue will cause the wood to swell and the plywood is a great fit so it will help keep things in place. Never the less I sort of figured this out on my own to believe it or not.


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## BCK (Feb 23, 2014)

lol..neither..its what people/friends call me..initials..lol..ya that was the only place I could find, that actually showed how to set those up...most give you a " good luck type deal"..lol..if you added a spacer from them to the rail add the same to style..should be ok..do a cpl tests on scrap?? ..I'm in the middle of refacing cabinets and making new doors myself...will post a before and after once I'm done...


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Doors Finished and Glued Up*

Been working day shift the last two days so I was only able to get the task we all love to do and that would be SANDING!

It is such a tedious task but will make or break a project. I sanded all the rail and stiles pieces as well as the panels. I used 180 grit on a orbital sander and then used a palm sander with 220 grit.

I applied two coats of varathane to everything and gave a light hand sanding using 400 grit sandpaper in between coats.

I glued up both doors and made them to fit snug in the opening. Rather than try to get an exact fit I make the door snug and this allows me to run the edges through the table saw to dial in the 1/16" reveal all the way around the door. Tedious ... oh ya but so worth it in my opinion. I love the look of inset doors, it speaks volumes to craftsmanship and just plain looks beautiful.

I switch over to nights tomorrow so I will attempt to get the back panel cut to allow access for the power outlet and install the hinges. I will be making some custom door handles out of Walnut. This may take a bit of time because it will be my first attempt at doing my own handles. I figure this will add another dimension to the piece. The handles will also help carry the Walnut from the Mantel for a seamless transition.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Don't sweat it, Dan.

I have been finding lately, the more sanding I do, the better my projects seem to go......


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Door Hinge Problem*

Much to my dismay I went out to the shop this morning and tried to install the wrap around door hinges only to see they will not work with the face frame.

My problem lies in how far the face frame projects into the door opening. I allowed for a 1/4" face frame but the hinges are designed to work with at least 5/8". When I try to mount the hinge onto the edge of the face frame the bracket hits the side of the cabinet and won't allow the hinge plate to sit flat on the edge of the face frame.

I could not find any installation instruction for the hinges either. Lee Valley did not supply any and when I checked on the website Amerock Decorative Cabinet Hardware, Functional Hardware, & Bath Hardware they did not list any either. It would of been nice if they had specified what the minimum distance was for the face frame. Like they say live and learn and move on.

I will have to run out to Lee Valley and exchange the hinges and go with the European hinges instead.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Can't you just grind/cut the overage off the back flaps? (5/8" down to 1/4")
It won't affect the operation and it can't be seen unless you crawl into the cabinet.
Most oldstyle faceframe hinges don't have that 90deg. return flap on the back; I'm pretty sure it's main function is to act as a 'locator' for rapid production in cabinet shops.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

DaninVan said:


> Can't you just grind/cut the overage off the back flaps? (5/8" down to 1/4")
> It won't affect the operation and it can't be seen unless you crawl into the cabinet.
> Most oldstyle faceframe hinges don't have that 90deg. return flap on the back; I'm pretty sure it's main function is to act as a 'locator' for rapid production in cabinet shops.


I could but I am afraid it will marr the finish on the hinge due to the exceswsive heat buildup.

It was easy to just return the hinges and I got a set of Eurpean hinges with a 5mm riser plate. I had to add #8 SAE washer to shim it out a little more and problem solved.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Euro Hinge Install*

I got the new hinges and got them installed today with a few minor adjustments.

Using a 35mm forester bit I set the drill press table fence to 22.5mm and marked the fence on both the left and right to drill consistent holes for all my doors. I used a small setup block ripped to the distance needed to drill the mounting plates on the sides of the cabinet. The two holes are spaced 32mm apart form one another. I jsut used the plate to mare the centers rather than use a ruler. The block is cut so I just have to place on the underside of the upper shelf or the bottom of the cabinet and the two lines indicate where I have to drill the (2) 1/8" holes for the #8 wood screw to attach the mounting plate.

The mounting plates were 5mm and as it turns out the off set was about 6mm. This made it difficult to attach the hinges so I used a small SAE #8 washer to shim out the plate a bit more and it worked like a charm.

The straight edge wood piece I clamped to the stile while attaching the 35mm blum cup helped ensure the hinges will be parallel to one another. I had to remove the white plugs that expanded with the screws. Instead I removed them and went with ordinary screws and used a Vex bit.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Here is a picture of the white plugs I had to remove.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Wooden Door Handle*

I wanted to make my own door handles. At first I was going to use Walnut but after I put a piece up on the door panel I knew at once it was not going to work. Instead I decided to use a piece of leftover 2" stock and cut it into (6) 1.25" x 1" pieces. 

I cut the sides on a 7 degree angle and did a small narrow inlay of walnut running through the center vertically on the door handle. I used my ripping jig and set the width to 7/32". Ripped the Walnut and had to lightly sand it to get a snug fit.

To attach the door handles I drilled two holes and used threaded brass inserts 8-32 so I could use screws to attach the door handle to the door stile.

I finished the door handle with tung oil but I think I will use the same finish as the tung oil made the handles too dark for my liking.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Cabinet tops and trim*

I have been bust working on the cabinet tops and now have them installed.

I have taken a series of pictures showing how I did it.

Enjoy.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Stone Wall for Fireplace*

Once I had the cabinets in place the next phased included the stone work for the fireplace.

I bought the cultured stone form Home Depot. I got three boxes for $99.00 because they were doing inventory and did not want to count it. At that price I was hard pressed to say no. Each box covers 11.5 sq ft. I had an area 5' x 9' less the opening of the fireplace. It was perfect amount of stone and allowed a few extra pieces if I broke any of the stone while installing it.

The stone is made by Preferred Handcraft Stone. They have a toll free line at 1-877-710-7625. Some of you may wonder why I did not use a scratch coat first and the wire mesh. I called the company direct and also wrote to them to verify I could install the stone directly over the Hardi Backer Board. This saves you a lot of extra work in my opinion and easily justifies the added cost for the 100% waterproof Hardi Back Board.

I purchased a diamond tooth blade ($25.00) for my 4 1/2"grinder, this worked great. I used a wheel barrel and a garden hoe to mix the Type S Mortar. I ended up using 2 1/2 bags (25 kg) of Type S mortar. I also bought a small striking tool which was used to finish the grout between the stones.

Before getting started I transferred the measurements of the fireplace onto the floor. I drew some lines on the floor to show me the area the stone would be covering. This allowed me to layout the stones first and make the cuts. This saved me the worry of cutting the stone to fit and selecting them prior to the mortar drying up.

Some of the tricks I learned were to have a spray bottle with water in it. Prior to applying the mortar I first dipped the stone into a bucket of water and then applied the mortar. Once the mortar was on the stone I then used the spray bottle to spray the wall. This helps prevent the mortar from drying out as the Hardi Backer board will draw some water out of the mortar and possible affect the adhesive to the wall.

I also found by mixing smaller batches of mortar up did two things. First, it allowed me to mix the mortar easily using a small hand held garden hoe. Secondly, it allowed the mortar to be used quicker and not have i t become to dry. The other thing I found was I would spray a bit of water into the mortar mix. I found by using a spray bottle I was able to control how much water I added and thus not put too much in.

Here are some more pictures showing how I did it step by step.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Dan I feel your pain as renovations can be overbearing..

Quick question is that 1/2" gas line flex-line? and what is it made of/fittings does it use?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Comfortable! :yes4:


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Very nicely done.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Marco said:


> Dan I feel your pain as renovations can be overbearing..
> 
> Quick question is that 1/2" gas line flex-line? and what is it made of/fittings does it use?


Yes 1'2" flex line (yellow). The fitting on the gas fireplace was flex with a shut-off. Not sure what you mean by fittings? I could attach the manual for the fireplace if that helps.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Comfortable! :yes4:


It is Bill especially with the cold winter we just had. Once I install the new windows the comfort level will rise yet again.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

No need to comment on craftsmanship, nor execution. They are both a given  In the end, when you sit back and take that proverbial long hard look, it can always be broken down to one word...

Comfortable seemed just about right....

well done Dan..




TRN_Diesel said:


> It is Bill especially with the cold winter we just had. Once I install the new windows the comfort level will rise yet again.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Marco said:


> Dan I feel your pain as renovations can be overbearing..
> 
> Quick question is that 1/2" gas line flex-line? and what is it made of/fittings does it use?



Here is the manual for my fireplace. Perhaps this will answer your question Jim.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Yes 1'2" flex line (yellow). The fitting on the gas fireplace was flex with a shut-off. Not sure what you mean by fittings? I could attach the manual for the fireplace if that helps.



Thanks Dan

When I installed gas lines we used stainless steel flex line at the appliance and ran pipe the rest of the way. The yellow flex-line your gas man used looked like a poly hose similar to a air hose which threw me. I see that now they cover the stainless steel with a poly-cover..... a lot easier to run but bigger pockets to have.

BTW If you are not killing yourself on this renovation then a standing ovation is in order...... it hurt my back just going through all of the pics.................... and I did notice your helper napping on the shop floor.


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## david_de (Jun 3, 2013)

Wow, great work and presentation. Enjoyed every word and picture. Thanks.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks Dave it is my pleasure to share with you. 

Next on the list will be to remove a large picture window 110" x 56" and install three new windows each 30" x 56" RO followed by the hardwood floor and making some stair treads on the router table.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Hardwood Floor Installation*

Today I decided to install the hardwood floor first rather than do the living room window. Truth be know it snowed last night much to my dismay and the flower beds are wet and muddy. I didn't want to work outside when it was only 2 degrees Celsius. 

Rather than waste a Sunday afternoon I decided to prep the floor and do some basic layout lines to get me started on the floor.

I will be using 3 1/2" x 3/4" thick Oak hardwood planks. The quality of plank is "premium" and comes in longer lengths with minimal knots. I still wanted knots for more of a rustic look. The sub-floor is 3/4" fir plywood laid over 5/8" strapping on a 45 degree angle. This is how they built houses back in 1965 and I wish they still did the same today but due to cost and time they do not. The floor is rock solid so there was no need to add anything to it.

Some issues I had to deal with were lining the floor up square to the room. Which wall should I pick and how out of square is the room. After taking some measurements I found the room to be out by just 5/8" over 17 feet, not bad in my opinion. The other issue I had was to keep my layout line square to the tile I had laid in the front entrance as well as the fireplace. Luckily, I was the guy who laid the tile, so I based my layout for the tile to come off square from the middle dividing wall. 

When I finishing laying the hardwood floor I will end up on the wall where the windows will be installed. If you recall I said the room was out of square by about 5/8". I figured I can live with 5/8" since the couch will be up against the wall and the edge will not be seen. I also think I can cheat a bit and make it look square.


I made marks on the floor and then drove a finishing nail into the floor and used a chalk line to snap a line the length of the room. I will use this line as a reference when laying down the hardwood planks. Where I am starting the floor will have a set of cabinets on them as well so I will face nail the first board using the 16 gauge brad nailer and nail some into the tongue to make sure it is secured firmly.

Stay tune and check back in as I start this job tomorrow morning.!

Please find a few pictures to show you what I have done.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

You have done well in the past 2 months, Dan.

How much more to go?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Living room window removal*

Change of plans, I have a few guys coming over tomorrow to give me a hand to remove the picture window (110" x 56") I did go out today and get some white oak nosing for the stair treads and picked up some 10 foot 2x4's for framing the windows in.

I had to remove the Aluminium fascia around the window. This white aluminium was covering the dark brown brick mold you seen in the last picture.

The plan is to make the opening and see how the window fits in regards to the inside. I may have to shim out or remove the existing brick mold to allow for the window to sit flush to the drywall inside.

Here are a few pictures showing how I removed the covering. The caulking is holding in the window and it should be just a matter of giving it a push from the inside to remove it tomorrow morning.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Window Removal & Framing*

After working a night shift I ask a few guys form my shift if they could come by and give me a hand removing the large window. With four guys I was set and anxious to get the window out. The weather forecast called for a cool day but no rain.

To help entice the guys over to help I asked my girlfriend to make breakfast for them. Deer breakfast sausage on a toasted triangle bun with scramble eggs did the trick with melted white cheddar with garlic and onions. :agree:

Here are a few shots with the window removed and the framing process. I used 2x4's and had to use my thickness planer to make the bottom and top plates the right thickness to allow the windows to fit into the existing opening. I cut the 2x4's to size and screwed them in ensuring everything was square and level.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Hardwood Floor Complete*

Today I got the rest of the hardwood floor in. Had to make a few pieces and used a tongue and groove bit set to make some custom pieces around the stair step leading up into the dining room.

Took a few more pictures and explained what I did and showed how I did it.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Looks great Dan.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks Ross I am very pleased with how this is turning out. It is how I imagine it and I seemed to be on track for taking the allotted time and money.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

On time and on budget??? Well we can't be having much more of that!:no::no::no:


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I am sure when I do the kitchen this will all change Bill so worry not!!!!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

LOL, have you told your girlfriend that you are selling once finished????/

That is a great reno,Dan....


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Oh ya James she is wanting to move to Salt Spring Island where the weather is substantially warmer. 

I guess this is typical, live in a house for 12 years and finally get the renos you want only to have someone else enjoy the fruits of your labour.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Mesh Tape and 1st Coat of Mud*

After biking home from work I was fully charged to start the muding and taping around the windows. I had a small seam to tape at the top and bottom of each window. I had two more seams near the bottom as well to mud and tape due in part to the leftover drywall.

I had both the standard tape and the mesh tape. For small jobs like this I like to use the mesh tape. It is sticky so when you apply it to the drywall it self adheres. I like to use a set of super shears to cut the mesh tape to length.

I have taken a few shots to show you what I did. I will need to apply three coats for a good finish before I prime and then paint the joints.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Window Trim Installed Outside*

It is a warm and sunny day so I took the time to paint the 2x12's and the 1x8 I used to trim out the window.

I had to rip the 1x8 into two parts and then glue them together prior to painting them. 

Took some more pictures with a brief narration to show what I did.

I will post some more pictures of the inside window once I get the walls painted around the windows and the trim cut and painted as well.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Window trim and paint complete*

I have been busy and have not had time to upload what I have done to date. I now have the windows inside done with window trim and the drywall has been finished with a fresh coat of paint.

The job was tricky with only myself to finish it. I had to get creative to install the trim since the piece in the living room was over 10 feet long. To help me install the trim and made small blocks out of some scrap 2x6. I then used these blocks and attached them temporarily to the wall using 3' deck screws. I was careful to screw into the wooden frame around the window as not to damage the wall and create additional patch work.

I wrapped the ends of the window trim by cutting the end pieces. I glued and used a 22 gauage pin nailer to secure the ends.

I have taken some more pictures showing how the windows turned out.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Hardwood stair treads*

This was a very lengthy ordeal to get the stairs done the way I wanted them to turn out. I had a few issues to deal with when trying to get this completed.

I first had to machine the stair nosing. The hardwood was a 1/16" less in thickness than the nosing so this required some fine planing. I used the thickness planer to remove the 1/16" off the top and then had to redo the round over front edge. 

Next I had problems with the stain not matching. This meant I had to take another trip out the Walls Alive to see if they could get a closer match. The came through with flying colors !!!! and this time I had a perfect match. I also picked up some spray cans of lacquer to finish the surface of the stair nosing.

The other issue I had was some cupping on the old stair tread I re-used. This tread was made of Douglas Fir and I wanted to recycle the wood. I tried running it through my drum sander only to have the belt break so I had to go old school and use a Jack Plane to flatten the top out. 

I pre-assembled the facing on both steps and used my biscuit jointer to mitre the corners to allow for the grain to continue throughout and add additional strength. The mitres on the top also were reinforced using #20 biscuits and wood glue. The boards were pin nailed in and glued using PL400 adhesive.

Here are some pictures to show you what I did.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Hardwood Stairs*

More pictures of the stairs.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

A few more shots


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Nicely done Dan. Great WIP.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks Ross now I am going to tackle making a new front door using IPEA. Not sure if I will put in a side light window or not. I am thinking of purchasing a Festool DF-700 EQ (Domino® DF 700 EQ Joining System - Lee Valley Tools) domino. They are pricey but I may try building this jig and using this first. See attached file. 

I have drawn up plans for a front porch as well so the renovation is never ending!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Front Porch*

I decided to tackle the front porch next in my renovations. Before I could start I had to have the utilities marked out to ensure I would not be drilling through any buried gas lines or electrical lines. Initially, this was suppose to be a week but things are busy here and I was bumped down the que and just yesterday had the guys out to mark the utilities.

I had to remove a cedar stump which was left after I cut down the cedar tree. I also had to remove a raised flower bed built using cinder blocks and faced with stone. I have a large concrete step in the front which measures 6' x 4' x 2' and has three steps. This is going to be the biggest challenge removing. 

Once I removed the flower bed wall and stacked all the caps I set out breaking the wall apart. Armed with a sledge hammer I slowly took the wall apart and backed the truck up on the front lawn and loaded all the rubble. Once I had the wall removed I had to dig around the cedar stump. I exposed the largest roots and used my reciprocating saw to cut the roots off. 

Next I used a tow rope and wrapped the stump using what is called a high strength tie ( 3 wraps around the tree) This secures the stump and allows you to maximize the strength out of the rope because you have not introduced a knot. If you have a knot the breaking strength is reduce by about 30%. I also got to use my new chain I made up for just this job.

I went to Princess Auto and bought 20 feet of 5/16" chain. I bought to ends and attached them to the chain. Once I had the stump wrapped I backed the truck up and attached the chain and placed the truck in 4WD Low and pulled the stump out. Well almost out it took some doing but I finally got it to come but ended up breaking the tow rope because I got lazy and did not wrap the stump and double the rope up for maximum strength.

I have taken a few pictures to show what I did today. It was a hot day at 29 degrees Celsius. Afterwards I was glad to have it done. 

My next task will be to remove the front concrete step and then I can drill three holes for my pilings.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

> It was a hot day at 29 degrees Celsius



Oh, Dan, you poor thing.........ROTFL.....

I hope you kept up the fluids....

PS...Love the Tundra. They won't bring them out in Right Hand Drive unless some one orders 30,000 of them....,


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

James

I am not built or use to that sort of heat. I won't lie to you the first cold beer went down really quick after I got that stump loaded.

The Tundra is awesome. Putting a new canopy on next week with a spray in box liner.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Go ahead Dan, Keep on doing all of these upgrades around the house... You're gonna get a reputation around the neighborhood


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Removing Concrete Step*

I got the step removed using a sledge hammer and good old elbow grease! 

Have a look at the photos.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Drilling Pilings*

Next I rented an hydraulic auger and drilled the holes.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Attaching the 2x8 Ledger Board and joist hangers*

Once the holes were drilled I attached the ledger board 2x8 using 3/8 lag screws.
I tried to use 1/4" but they twisted off and snapped on me so I went one size bigger with 3/8" - 3 ' long with a washer and it did the trick.

I will have to mix the concrete and pour tomorrow.

Have a look at some more photos.


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

Wow Dan, you are an ambitious man! You are doing a great job on this project. I once rented a one-man hole auger that was hand held. When it hit a root the auger blade stopped so the top of the machine turned instead, slammed into my ribs and turned ME before I could stop it. It was like a cartoon and very amusing ... if you were a spectator. 

I'm amazed at how deep you made the holes. Here in Louisiana anything that deep is called a well. :haha:


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Yes I had the same experience as well using a different auger. This one worked great and was easy to use. The code here is very strigent when it comes to pilings. For decks over 24" a permit is required along with 12" holes 12' deep unless you used engineered screw pilings.

Crazy and a bit over kill I say. My porch is 21" in height so I do not need a permit or monster piles.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

You have been a busy boy Dan. Great photos and WIP explanations.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Concrete Pilings Complete*

Tonight after work my gal and I got the pilings done. Each pile took about 8 - 25 kg bags of concrete to fill. The tops are all level with each other and will allow the 6x6 to rest squarely on top.

I used 10 mm rebar to reinforce the pilings which are 8" in diameter and 6 feet deep.

I like to make a square box on top for two reasons. First it allows the 6x6 post to rest on concrete and not dirt. This helps prevent rotting. Secondly, building the square top accounts if your out a little while drilling the holes which I was a bit. 

The platforms do not need to be level with each other as the height is determined by the level joist coming off the house. You will see what I mean when I set the height of the 6x6 using a level on top of the 2x6 joist. I measure the height to the bottom of the platform and then subtract the width of the beam.

For example: If the height was 24" I would deduct 7.25" for the 2x8 beam. The total length I would need to cut the 6x6 would be 24 - 7.25 =16.750. 


Have a look of some more pictures. I tried to give a brief explanation for each photo for you to read along.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

old55 said:


> You have been a busy boy Dan. Great photos and WIP explanations.


Thanks Ross. Yes I have been busy but this is a great project for dressing up the house and giving it that added curb appeal. Not to mention the luxury of having a cup of coffee in the morning and watching the morning sunrise.

I am excited for the railing I have designed. It will combine wrought iron and wood. The post will be notched as well leaving a nice flush look in front.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mixing cement in a wheel barrel , now I've been there done that lol . Actually it's not funny


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Newbie question....*

Hi Dan

That looks like hard work...VBG.

At least you get to work outside in the Summer.

Q: do the piles have to be so deep because of the soil freezing in Winter?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Dan
> 
> That looks like hard work...VBG.
> 
> ...


Yes James the frost line is about 4 feet below grade. By going past this it helps prevent the pilings from heaving and thus cause the deck to move up or down.

I like to think of this project as a good workout. Well at least the busting of concrete and digging holes. The fun part starts tomorrow when I get to install the joists and cut the 4x4 posts to fit. 

Making stairs is fun too!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Making the 3 plyh 2x8 Beam*

I used PT (Pressure Treated) 2x8's to make the beam. I used (3) 12' 2x8's and (3) 8' 2x8's to make the beam. I staggered the joints and made the beam.

An air nailer was used to drive nails. Nail the ends of the beam in 6" to allow for any trimming of the beam.

The beam will rest on top of a PT 6x6 post cut to length

Have a look at how I built it.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Applying aluminium flashing to ledger*

Flashing is required to prevent water from getting in behind the ledger I attached. If water prevent this from occurring you install flashing. Some people use a rubber membrane called Blue or Red Skin but I like using flashing instead. It is cheaper and in my opinion more effective then membrane. 

Follow this link to read more on Blue Skin:

http://www.globalwindows.ca/webcura/files/274862_info_blueskin.pdf

Here are some pictures showing how I installed the flashing.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Setting height for 6x6 post for beam to rest on*

To determine the height of the 6x6 post I use a 2x6 joist and a level. 

I place the 2x6 joist in the joist hanger and run the joist over the piling. With a 4 foot level I place the level on top of the joist. 

The joist is then raised till the level tells me it is level. 

I drive a stake into the ground and this allows me to rest the joist on top of the stake and let me measure the distance between the top of the piling and the bottom of the 2x6 joist.

Have a look at the pictures to get a closer look.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Joist 2x6 lay out*

Once I had the beam built and the 6x6 posts cut to the proper height I was able to install the beam. 

I laid out the 2x6 joist on 16" centers. The code in my area allows no more than a 16" over hang from the bean to the outside rim joist.

Rather than use a framing square I like to run out my tape to mark off the 16" spacing for the joists. This is more accurate over long runs because every spacing you can be out by a little bit and over a long run this can account for a larger difference.

To make sure the joist run out form the house square I used the simple 3 4 5 rule. If there was anything worth taking in math this is it. The 3 4 5 rule is derived from Pythagorean Theorem. 

Pythagorean theorem - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

In simple terms it means from the corner of the outside of the porch you measure 3 feet across and 4 feet up perpendicular. The distance between the two points should be 5 feet. I use this all the time to help me set the outside joists on the corners. If you want to make it more accurate simply multiply the numbers by 2 to give you 6 8 10 ratio and so on.

Here are some pictures to help illustrate what I am talking about.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*4x4 Railing Post*

Next comes the railing post. I used PT (pressure treated) 4x4 post. I notch the bottom so the post sits on the joist and is flush to the outside.

I set my mitre station up and the super sled to cut all the 4x4 to the same length. Next I took the post over to the sled and set the saw cut depth to 1 1/2" and set the stop on the sled to 5 1/2". This accounts for the thickness (1.5") of the joist and the width (5.5")

The bandsaw was set up using the fence as a guide to rip the 1.5" cut. It wasn't necessary to use all three saws but since I was at home and had access it made for quick and easy cuts dead on square. 

If I wasn't at home I would make the notched cuts with a circular saw and then use a chisel to chip out the waste material. This method is far more timely and not anywhere near as accurate. 

With all the post cut and notched I placed them in position. I set the end corner post in and measure over to the stair post. Took the measurement and divided by three. I then took this measurement and made a mark on the joist and placed the 4x4 post. With the post in position I measured back to the other side to verify I had the same measurement. I find it well worth it making sure your dead on center so you can make the railings in sections and then place them in the opening. 

Another valuable time saver is buying a post level. These things just attach using a rubber band and provide you with two planes at the same time. It allows someone like me to work alone and not have to grow a set of extra arms. Lets face it I am no starfish!

I have all the post cut and secured in placed using (4) #12 3 1/2" screws. I like the look of the post being flushed with the outside rim joist. When I start to install the 2x6 decking I will cut out around each 4x4 post to give it a nice neat and clean finish. 

The span for the joists between the beam and the house is about 6 feet. I felt adding the 2x6 blocking would help stiffen the joists and prevent any twisting. A chalk line was used to snap a line down the center and the blocking was installed on either side of the line. Staggering the blocking allows for easy nailing.

Unfortunately, we are expecting 40mm of rain over the next two days so this has given me some time to catch up on the write up. However, this puts me back a few days since I need to stain the decking boards, rail section and posts. :sad:

Stay tune for when the sun comes back out!


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Dan nice job.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks Ross its coming but mother nature is dumping 40 mm of rain on us. Gave me a chance to fix my stick nailer which I posted on the forum. I was amazed at how easy it was to repair. Did i mention it only cost me $45 and 1 hour of my time ( travel time included)


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Dan everything must have fallen into place quickly to get it fixed that quick.


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