# About to start my first table build



## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

All the parts are almost in place for me to build my first table. I have a Kreg plate that is pre-drilled for Triton Routers. Since my JOF001 is not suitable I bought the TRA001 duel mode Triton Router for the table.

I also picked up a piece of 18mm thick marine ply to use as the table itself. It is 610 wide and 810 long, I had it cut that long as the fence is made for an 810mm table.

My question is not how do you determine where on the table do you mount the plate?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Dave,

IMO, mid distance, side to side, and about 1/3 the distance front to back(toward the front).

This allows plenty of space for smaller objects and if you get a wider piece, you can turn the fence around...


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

tak35bne said:


> All the parts are almost in place for me to build my first table. I have a Kreg plate that is pre-drilled for Triton Routers. Since my JOF001 is not suitable I bought the TRA001 duel mode Triton Router for the table.
> 
> I also picked up a piece of 18mm thick marine ply to use as the table itself. It is 610 wide and 810 long, I had it cut that long as the fence is made for an 810mm table.
> 
> My question is not how do you determine where on the table do you mount the plate?


Make sure you double the marine plywood up or at least us an additional 1/2" plywood underneath. If you install a miter track, that will cut into the board a half inch. Does not leave much for support. You will want two layers to prevent sag anyway. The router, lift and plate are heavy, and once you cut a hole, it further weakens the top.

I would suggest a torsion box for the top and bottom, depending on the type of construction you use.

I would also suggest you look at how the main mfgs assemble their tables and follow the things you like about them. Like router plate position, storage, guide track, etc.

Woodpeckers, Incra, Jessm, etc. They all have something to reference\offer. They also sell router plate templates for their lifts to make it easier to fit their plate.

And, you can always review the designs on this forum.

Good luck and make sure you start a new thread once the build starts. We will all want to follow along, make suggestions, answer questions, and spend your money!!!!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

+ 1 with what James suggested. Off setting the mount allows for increased versatility. In regards to Brads suggestion I have a much different experience with table thickness. My last table was made from scraps as a throwaway. It was made from a single layer of 5/8" melamine coated particle board and had 3/8 deep grooves cut in for t tracks which left only 1/4" of material in those spots. I mounted it on a good level frame of 3/4" ply and left over spruce fencing. I had cross members very close to the insert plate and to the grooves. After 4 yrs of going from +40 to -40C it's still dead flat. Having a frame underneath is way more important than adding layers of whatever panel board you will use.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> ................. In regards to Brads suggestion I have a much different experience with table thickness. My last table was made from scraps as a throwaway. It was made from a single layer of 5/8" melamine coated particle board and had 3/8 deep grooves cut in for t tracks which left only 1/4" of material in those spots. I mounted it on a good level frame of 3/4" ply and left over spruce fencing. I had cross members very close to the insert plate and to the grooves. After 4 yrs of going from +40 to -40C it's still dead flat. Having a frame underneath is way more important than adding layers of whatever panel board you will use.


You are probably the exception. Particle board is not very stable, especially in humid climates and I would not recommend for a table top.

Any two pieces of material laminated together is far more stable than any one single sheet of wood when subjected to temperature\humidity variation and just good practice for work surfaces.

I agree that what supports the top is more important and that is why I suggest the torsion boxes, as well.

Maybe my suggestions are overkill but I am pretty particular about work surfaces built for the long haul and with the humidity here in Houston, its necessary.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Dave,
> 
> IMO, mid distance, side to side, and about 1/3 the distance front to back(toward the front).
> 
> This allows plenty of space for smaller objects and if you get a wider piece, you can turn the fence around...


And, if you plan it carefully, you might have room for a second one!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> And, if you plan it carefully, you might have room for a second one!


^^^ show off


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Dave this may not help but here's a tape on my Incra


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

timbertailor said:


> You are probably the exception. Particle board is not very stable, especially in humid climates and I would not recommend for a table top.
> 
> Any two pieces of material laminated together is far more stable than any one single sheet of wood when subjected to temperature\humidity variation and just good practice for work surfaces.
> 
> ...


You may think that my experience is the exception but over the years I've been here I've seen more posts about tables not being flat from people who layered than I've seen from those who used a single layer and I can't say for sure that I've ever seen anyone who had problems when attaching to a frame (torsion box). In fact, I've seen so many posts from people who layered and then had problems that I'm starting to think the laminating of the plies may be the problem.


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> You may think that my experience is the exception but over the years I've been here I've seen more posts about tables not being flat from people who layered than I've seen from those who used a single layer and I can't say for sure that I've ever seen anyone who had problems when attaching to a frame (torsion box). In fact, I've seen so many posts from people who layered and then had problems that I'm starting to think the laminating of the plies may be the problem.



I am thinking you might be right. Why I say that is the first sheet of Marine Play I bought at the hardware was 1200 long x 610 wide and 18mm deep. I have them cut it to size for me and on being handed the 2 pieces I saw that the play had started to delaminate.........I might glue and screw a second piece of play maybe not as thick as I don't was a 36mm thick table.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*how big do you need?*

Taken to the extreme, look at the Oak Park table which is only 30 x 16.


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

*Hanging big routers big problem*

Ive heard lots of ways guys build their tables to keep the top flat. Seems most just double the top thickness and all is well. But the bigger routers with lifts and plates need Ft Knox. 

If you have too much span on the table it won't mater how many layers you use. The weight will just work against you.

Be sure your glue up is flat when your finished clamping it. When I glue up wood. I make sure when I set it aside to dry its setting as even as posible. Not leaning more on a corner or set on something uneven like a clamp screw higher than the rest.

I have two router tables with lifts but both don't hang from the top. So my tops are made from what ever I want. The last one is Corian. 

Al


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

So far so good.......


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

So my first attempt to build a table ended in abject failure, it could not have failed more.........lol

I attempted to do the cutout for the plate like this:

1. traced the plate onto the ply where I wanted it,

2. built up template material with similar material and used double sided tape to fix the template.

3. correctly set my depth of cut (9.5mm) on the table then set the depth on the router using the same template material.

Intent was to ease the spinning bit into the material to start the cut, moving the pattern following bit around the template to cut the rebate for the plate to sit on. Then I was going to use the jig saw to cut out the remainder of the material and bobs your uncle.

Problems

1. Router did not enter the material cleanly so chipped out some of the table edge.

2. Using the Triton JOF001 with the pattern following bit and tried to do the entire cut in one pass........never again.

Lessons learnt

1. will start the next one with a hole cut by a forstner bit to the right depth.

2. Use a better quality pattern template bit and a more powerful router.

Had a play afterwards and used the existing bit in the brand new delivered today Triton TRA001 Router.........much much easier to cut full depth with that router.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Cut most of the waste out with a jig saw. That way the router doesn't have to work as hard.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Jig saw first Dave. It's much easier on the bit when it's only cutting on one side. The bit gets rid of chips easier and runs cooler because it gets more air. Not all bits are plunge capable. Some are meant to come in from the side.


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

When I build the v2 version, I was thinking of MDF as the top piece and a ply wood under that. What would everyone suggest I make the table out of?


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

I also got the fence sorted yesterday, its a nice one.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

tak35bne said:


> I also got the fence sorted yesterday, its a nice one.
> 
> View attachment 74209


Geez Dave , it almost looks to pretty to use lol


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> Geez Dave , it almost looks to pretty to use lol


It does........lol.........started v2 today, table will be 810 x 600 wide and just over an inch thick. 

Top layer is 18mm thick piece of MDF with the bottom layer a 12mm piece of marine ply. I have marked out where the plate is to go along with the waste material. Drilled 4 small pilot holes in the corners for the waste to facilitate cutting it out. Once the waste is gone I can set up the router template for the rebate for the plate.


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

This build is giving me the ****es.........onto v3 now, I just can't seem to get the little things right............


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

Here is a progress shot of the table. I have the t-track arriving early next week so all I have to do is screw that in. The big issue is going to be cutting the waste for the plate and the rebate for it to sit on.......that is the area I am not feeling confident on....


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## floridagramps (Feb 16, 2010)

FWW suggests first building a grid using 1X stock as the foundation on top of which you screw down an mdf top..............very unlikley to sag..............this from their plans on making TS extension router table. Much like a torsion box


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## Al B Thayer (Jun 2, 2014)

tak35bne said:


> Here is a progress shot of the table. I have the t-track arriving early next week so all I have to do is screw that in. The big issue is going to be cutting the waste for the plate and the rebate for it to sit on.......that is the area I am not feeling confident on....
> 
> 
> View attachment 74249


While I don't abvocate for these types of tables. And cutting in the insert is one of the reasons.

I would cut out the waste inside first and then rout with a straight edge to your marks short of your target hole. Then sneak up to your opening size with micro cuts. This will help insure you don't "slip" because your only cutting a small amount. Cut and verify with the plate. I would also make it as tight as fit will allow because the crushing of fibers will soon give you a loose fit from use.

Al


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

Rookie mistake made and I have blown it again. I marked where the plate was to sit by tracing around the plate. I have just realised now that by fixing the template up to the line I have made the rebate for the plate too loose.

I got to a point where the table is fine except for the plate fits loosely. I don't know how to tell the wife I have wasted more material..........

Don't know whether to start again or save up and buy a nice table......lol


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Take some veneer and glue around the edges. that should come pretty close to a good fit. I would sand it flush if it sits proud of the table. You can also sand or file the plate to fit the hole.


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## Rogerdodge (Apr 24, 2014)

+ 1 with Charles on the veneer . Really feel for you - I did several practice runs on mdf before I went for it on the actual table. Must say you have done a neat job. Comes down to how you feel about it the end. People who don't make mistakes don't make anything !

Rog


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Rogerdodge said:


> People who don't make mistakes don't make anything !
> 
> Rog


Ain't that the truth. You will make mistakes. How well you deal with them is as much the mark of a craftsman as anything else. 

One other option would be to increase the size of the ledge for the plate so that you can inlay extra wood on the top and then try cutting the right size rabbet a second time. No need to start over and spend more money yet. Also remember that a router table is a tool not fine furniture. It's going to show wear and tear over time. If you do feel it has to look beautiful and you use some nice wood for an inlay you tell people that it looked too plain with just the plate in the top so you decided to jazz it up. That sounds a lot better than "I cut the rabbet too big". Like my signature says it's how well you hide the mistakes.


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

Well I have given this idea away.......the level required to build a table exceeds my capabilities at the moment.......So I will have a new Kreg plate pre-drilled for a triton router and a really nice fence available for someone over here in AU.


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## Rogerdodge (Apr 24, 2014)

Hey Dave , don't give up. You are close to succeeding here . Take a bit of time out , then try either of the fixes which have been suggested . It will be fine .

"A man's reach should exceed his grasp !"

Rog


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

Rogerdodge said:


> Hey Dave , don't give up. You are close to succeeding here . Take a bit of time out , then try either of the fixes which have been suggested . It will be fine .
> 
> "A man's reach should exceed his grasp !"
> 
> Rog



The problem has been using new tools I have not had before. Bought two 900x600x16mm pieces of MDF today to try again for the top. I routed the dado for the t-track and found it was deeper at one end than the beginning. Discovered this was because I forgot to use the plunge lock lever even though I was using micro adjustment. One piece down.......second was I had the router on the low speed setting which caused the router to jump as the depth of cut was too deep for that speed.

I now have the router dialed in for the 19mm wide cut that is 9.5mm deep for the t-track........Just sick of wasting the material/s getting it right.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

tak35bne said:


> Just sick of wasting the material/s getting it right.


This is part of the learning process when it comes to woodworking, and sometimes that does mean scrapping material and remaking a part. Other times it is an opportunity to learn how to work around those mistakes. 

In the long run the cost of the material is cheap when compared to the experience and skill you will gather by trying again, so don't give up!


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

You cannot give in...some veneer, as suggested, is a great idea. So is cutting it even larger, glue in some nice wood like an inlay and recut to right size. Sneak up on it and tell everybody you found a "multi-functional yay by yo cross-grain adjustable wood extender"...I can get you a part number for that...

...see my signature line...?

Nick


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

After 30+ years, I still usually make some test runs on scrap before using my finished lumber.

Unless you do this almost every day, muscle memory is hard to recall.


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

Rogerdodge said:


> Hey Dave , don't give up. You are close to succeeding here . Take a bit of time out , then try either of the fixes which have been suggested.


I agree. I just scrapped my first tablesaw sled as the slots were too wide for 6mm coach bolts, but the rebates for the heads were too small for the 8mm coach bolt heads. The fence was out of square by 0.03mm over 203.2mm (0.0011811 inch over 8 inches) which, for my first attempt I thought was pretty much on.

Went back to the start and the slots are now perfect.

Yes I do have some smaller pieces of 18mm ply from the original version but they can be used for other projects/jigs at a later time, such as a box joint jig (very much on the list of to-do projects). Got lots of scraps so lots of projects in the future 

Dave, I'm still learning too and yes, at times I do get disheartened and throw the odd piece of scrap around the workshop, but I leave it, then come back to it once I've cooled, and have another go.


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

Thank you all for the encouragement, started another this morning and so far so good. I got the router dialed in so the dado cut for the t-track is exactly the right size. I have cut the waste out for the plate and am just waiting for new template following bits to arrive from the US of A. I have determined that when I tape the template material down for the plate rebate to have them on the inside of the pencil lines which will give me a tighter fit.

Image so far.....


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

Instead of relying on pencil lines to align the template parts, why not use the insert plate itself.

Start by laying the plate on the table (fig.2) and align the first piece of template material to the front right corner and double-side tape it down (fig.3)

Working clockwise tape down the next template strip (fig.4) and so on to fig.6.

Remove the plate from the centre and that is the exact size rebate you need. Use a 1/4" / 6mm pattern bit and rout 3mm deep all round. It doesn't matter if the bit wanders into the middle slightly, just as long as the outer edge up against the template is sharp. Lower the bit a little more (remembering the thckness of the router plate) and go around again and again until you get to the depth you need.
Remove the template material and then use a jigsaw to cut the inner section out leaving about 1/8" / 2mm inside the original routed groove.

After the mass has been cut out, stick your template strips around the hole aligned with the inside edge of the groove. Using a template/pattern bit, rout around the inside of the template removing the remaining 1/8" / 2mm of the hole.


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

vindaloo said:


> Instead of relying on pencil lines to align the template parts, why not use the insert plate itself.
> 
> Start by laying the plate on the table (fig.2) and align the first piece of template material to the front right corner and double-side tape it down (fig.3)
> 
> ...


That is good advice, at the stage I am at I will put the plate back on and afix the 
template material as you suggested with double sided tape.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Angie's method is a good one Dave. Keep in mind that double sided tape can creep under heat and pressure so ease up to your template rather than pressing hard against. You can gnaw away at the bulk of the waste in the rebate and then kiss the template to finish the cut.


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

I did it.................pics to follow, got the top MDF part of the table made and the plate is as tight as a nuns you know what........


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

Glad it's sorted. Looking forward to the pics.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

If at first you don't succeed ... you're running about average. That's when perseverance is what gets the job done. Congrats Dave


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## Rogerdodge (Apr 24, 2014)

Marvellous. well done.

Rog


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Good to hear Dave . If I had a swear jar in my garage I could have a paid vacation to Hawaii right now . I think the neighbours are wondering how I consider this an enjoyable hobby after all my outbreaks lol . But I am learning and have definitely progressed since I joined so that's the important component I think .
Plus there's some cool people here that I wouldn't have known otherwise


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

Well I must say that the table top I had made was rough but the plate was tight. Today on looking at it I thought I can do better. So...........I got a piece of MDF and traced the plate on it and I cut that out with a jig saw. I sanded the edges until the plate sat in the MDF night and tight.

Tomorrow I will use that MDF as a template to cut the same pattern on a 3/4 inch piece of material covered with melamine. I can then cut the waste out with a jig saw and then a flush trim bit to tidy up.

I have just bought four of the kreg plate levellers these I will screw under the table. Also, under that will be another 3/4 inch piece of ply to give the whole thing some strength.

I have wasted a lot of material but I have learned a lot on this journey.


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## Rogerdodge (Apr 24, 2014)

Waste is relative in this case. Call it "Learning Resources".

Rog


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

This 'learning resource' is the template. Its the exact size I want the table. Bit more hand sanding then I can use this template to mark the cutout on the laminate. Now to get a piece of laminated MDF that is 3/4 inch thick......you don't know how hard that is to find in Brisbane.....


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

Used the template above to do the table. So here it is in all its glory. Plate in and level, used the kreg plate levellers and they are great. Will do the sub-base tomorrow then I can glue and screw it all together.

I am very happy with this result, it all went very very well.


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## Rogerdodge (Apr 24, 2014)

Excellent work . You now have the means to an end .


Rog


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## JohnBFisher (Sep 3, 2014)

Nice job. I really enjoy seeing the work others do. It encourages me to try to finish off my own table. It's been about 20 years in the making! (Long story, very short .. I love wood joinery, but found that my work took away way too many hours from my life .. I recently retired and now have the time to pursue my interests). So, don't wait as long as I did before using your router table!!


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

tak35bne said:


> Used the template above to do the table. So here it is in all its glory. Plate in and level, used the kreg plate levellers and they are great. Will do the sub-base tomorrow then I can glue and screw it all together.
> 
> I am very happy with this result, it all went very very well.
> 
> ...


Wow that looks like it's within a rickameter , nice work .


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## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

Finished........just have to fine tune the supports the fence sits on and then some trim around the edges. 

Pretty happy.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Dave; did your wife object to your cutting a big hole in the dining room table?


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