# Precision Fence adjustment



## JulianLech (Jan 25, 2011)

I am looking for a way to precisely adjust my router table fence to make evenly spaced groove for V grooves for inlay banding. Has anyone done this before?


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

JulianLech said:


> I am looking for a way to precisely adjust my router table fence to make evenly spaced groove for V grooves for inlay banding. Has anyone done this before?


Hi Julian - Likely several ways of doing it. Since I haven't got a microadjustable fence, I usually use stop blocks and setup bars or, for very fine adjustments, feeler guage. 
Just place the setup bars behind the fence, place stop blocks behind the setup bars, remove the setup bars, loosen the fence and move it back to the stop blocks.


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## JulianLech (Jan 25, 2011)

That sounds like it should work. I was thinking of some way to incorporate my micro fence to adjust the router table fence. Thanks.


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## Sawdust Don (Nov 1, 2012)

Harbor Freight has 1" travel dial indicators for around $12-14, I use those for alot things in woodworking.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Sounds like a classic excuse ("reason" to LOML) to investigate an Incra positioner. With the ability to do quick adjustments at 1/32" increments this kind of thing would be a perfect fit.

Just my opinion.

earl


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Julian, it would help if we knew more about the table and fence you are using.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

The original Incra jig will do it.
As you can see this is on an MDF table (Watco slobbered and then waxed).

Increments in 1/32"s.

There are other Incra positioners that are quicker to change and more range. All of which comes at a cost.


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## JCJCJC (May 15, 2012)

Taking a literal reading of what you said -evenly spaced grooves, there's another DIY almost-no-cost way, that I saw a very good woodworker use once, years ago. 

Make one groove in each component of your workpiece along whatever fence you have. Make a thin overlay for your routertable with a hole for the cutter to come through, from something like 6mm MDF. Attach a small triangular strip of wood, sized to correspond with your v-groove, ie male-to-female fit, using adhesive and set panel pins, to the overlay. Position that strip in relation to the v-groove cutter, at the spacing you want between your grooves. Now run the pieces that already have the initial groove along the triangular strip to make the next groove, and so on, for as many grooves as you want.

Cheap, and you'll make it in an hour or less if you have the materials.


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

As Ralph suggested the "original Incra fence" fairly cheap and dead on.


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## Arcola60 (Jul 4, 2009)

I have the original incra positioner also. It works great. Accuracy, repeatability, versatile, not too expensive, and detailed instructions with a DVD. I picked it up on sale and never looked back. I am very pleased with it.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

JulianLech said:


> I am looking for a way to precisely adjust my router table fence to make evenly spaced groove for V grooves for inlay banding. Has anyone done this before?


ruler tape or ruler markings on the table...?


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

greenacres2 said:


> Sounds like a classic excuse ("reason" to LOML) to investigate an Incra positioner. With the ability to do quick adjustments at 1/32" increments this kind of thing would be a perfect fit.
> 
> Just my opinion.


As Earl says, very accurate and positive to 1/32", but also adjustable to .001" in between each 1/32" setting. The system is a little spendy but sure is accurate and works as described in the info from Incra.

Jerry Bowen


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

The Original Incra doesn't have the micro-adjust but can be had for aslittle as $50 on ebay or CL. The Incra Pro on my RT doesn't micro-adjust either, but the Wonder Fence i added does. The Ultra series and LS (Lead Screw) is adjustable to .001".

I bought my "Pro" for right at $100 shipped on e-bay, recently converted my table saw to a new TS-LS fence--spent too much but couldn't put together a decent used deal that made sense due to shipping cost of the rails. In my opinion, for my router table the Original would be good, but i'm glad i got the Pro with the templates and guides. The Wonder Fence was a nice addition (Amazon "used" deal from their outlet--distressed packaging knocked 40% off the price!!), but not really essential for me since i don't normally joint on the router table. I do like the micro adjust on the table saw since the carriage is fixed and fence must be parallel to the blade and it can make it easy to zero out the position quickly after a blade change. On a router table, i'm good with clamping the the mounting board since the fence really only references a point instead of a line. 

In any case--Incra makes first class stuff and i'm a convert, but still requires that I build technique to use it. It don't cut the wood for me!!

earl


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

If your table has a 3/4" miter slot you could use a 6" or other caliper and this:










Mag-Dro alignment tool can also be used to aid in setting the position of the fence relative to a reference on the caliper. ~$10 on Amazon

Mag-Dro Home 

Nice review on New Woodworker HERE

GCG


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Router Fence Micro Adjuster
Router Table Fence

===


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## Michael H (Aug 15, 2009)

Another advocate of the Incra fence. I have the LS-17 Supersystem and wouldn't go back to another type of table fence. I do a lot of precision, repeatable cuts on my router table. The incra system takes the guess work out of it. I make notes for each cut, and can come back anytime, after changing out bits for other cuts, and repeat the same routs if needed. Once you 'zero' out the required bit, the fence scale can be set again and again with exact precision. With the 'lead screw' on the LS system, I can fine tune cuts to 1/1000 of an inch. That's nice for fine tuning a rout. I do some sliding dovetails on the table and this micro adjustment makes getting a precision fit a snap.
It's a lot of money for the new system, but for me, it has paid for itself in efficiency and no lost materials. I rarely waste lumber on test cuts. 
I don't know about the older systems personally, but from what I've read, they work well too and can be found for quite a bit less money.


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## Taco (Mar 5, 2013)

And if you still need convincing to go Incra, the original jig is on sale at Rockler for 50 bucks. I'm sure it has been cheaper but that is the lowest I remember seeing it.

rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11494

You can even print your own template (from your computer) if you have the same job to do repeatedly. 

[However be aware some printers will distort the image you send it. So if you print a template, put a rule on it to make sure your printer put the lines where you think they are. And try several printers as some are more accurate than others.]


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## CR1 (Aug 11, 2011)

You could make some extra pieces and use them to creep up on your dimensions, You could also get yourself an indicator with a decent throw. A whole inch would be spendy but you can get half an inch reasonably enough. 
I use an old Federal with an inch throw. Saves my skinny over and over again all ovet the shop.


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## Jerry Bowen (Jun 25, 2011)

The Incra LS system is, as described, dead accurate to .001" as far as settings are concerned, that does not mean that you can cut wood to that level of accuracy time and time agsin due to the nature of wood itself and flutter of a saw blade, but it that will cause you to be unable to cut each cut to exactly the same same length, but the variation in length is not the fault of the Incra system, it all has to do with characteristics of the material that is being cut. I can usually to make my cuts consistant to within about 1/ 128", or .008" which is extremely close. I did not know about this due to my ignorance when I first started using the system, but members of this forum quickly pointed out to me what I am saying here in this post. In my opinion the LS system is worth every thing you spend on it and I would not to be without it now that I have become familiar with it. Also, the tech support that you get for free from Mark Mueller is priceless. Small spare parts have been sent to me free of charge over the three years that I have owned my system. 

Jerry Bowen


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## JulianLech (Jan 25, 2011)

I think I will take Taco's suggestion and buy the Incra jig for $50 and give it a try. Thanks for all the suggestions.


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## JulianLech (Jan 25, 2011)

Project 002: Inlay Banding The Easy Way... CNC Router - YouTube
This video from LumberJocks shows inlay being made with a CNC router. I am trying to do something very similar without the expensive CNC. That is the reason for a precision adjustable fence.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The Incra is about as close as you will get if you are making something as small as what is shown in the video. The Amana In-Groove set is for use with a CNC only, try using them by hand and you will be breaking the carbide inserts right and left.


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## ggom20 (Feb 1, 2012)

*+1 with that, simple and efficient, like the box-joint sled.*



JCJCJC said:


> Taking a literal reading of what you said -evenly spaced grooves, there's another DIY almost-no-cost way, that I saw a very good woodworker use once, years ago.
> 
> Make one groove in each component of your workpiece along whatever fence you have. Make a thin overlay for your routertable with a hole for the cutter to come through, from something like 6mm MDF. Attach a small triangular strip of wood, sized to correspond with your v-groove, ie male-to-female fit, using adhesive and set panel pins, to the overlay. Position that strip in relation to the v-groove cutter, at the spacing you want between your grooves. Now run the pieces that already have the initial groove along the triangular strip to make the next groove, and so on, for as many grooves as you want.
> 
> Cheap, and you'll make it in an hour or less if you have the materials.



Hello!

IMHO this is simple, costless and made of wood.

It is about the same as the many simple shop-made jigs made for box joint.
except that box joint are cut with wood in vertical position, and yours would be horizontal.

In fact its to add a false table with hole for router bit, and a reference to 
sled your piece of wood.

To simplify construction, i would suggest to cut a v-groove on top of the false table
and to glue in a square section that is a lot easier to get, cut , buy than a triangular
one.

Now cut a fist grove without false table .
Put false table and use the male part of false table to guide the piece you are making.

Distance between the male-guide and center of cutter is your increment.
And will keep accurate and stable untill you dismount.

If using a guide bush that fits false table hole , then it is stable and can be repeated.


Sorry, today I cannot post a drawing, but hope it helps.

Harry tests the Oak Park jig:

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/5417-harry-tests-oak-park-jig.html

That's the vertical idea, put it horizontal , and you got a costless jig.
Regards.

Gérard.


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## collinstuart (Aug 8, 2009)

Home made unit for very little cost in scrounged parts.


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