# Maple Night Stands



## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Well I have finally got around to making the nightstands for the bedroom. Over the last week I have managed to cut up the plywood and realized my dado set needed sharpening so I have a few chip out issues to deal with. 

I have tried to fill them with wood filler and will try to stain one to see if it turns out ok. I will be using a very dark stain "Walnut" polyurethane and will wait to see how the first one turns out. If it is not to my liking I will have to re-cut the sides and re-assemble the first unit.

I tried something new this time with the legs. I used biscuit slots and dado the legs out to fit onto the corner of the nightstand. When you look at the pictures you will get my drift.

Tomorrow calls for more sanding and then applying some stain.

A few things to note in the pictures:

1) Iron - used to remove some dents I had in the plywood. Applied a damp cloth over the affected area and press the hot iron onto it and it lifted the dent right off. This is a very useful trick so I thought I would enlighten those that have not heard of this before.

2) I saw this next tip in a wood magazine for glue up. Using a baby formula glass jar I drilled a hole in the top of the lid large enough for my small paint brush that I use to apply an even coat of glue on my joints. When your not using it you simply let it drop into the glue. 

3) Using the same glass jars from the baby food I place my screws in the jars with labels to let me see what I have and used my label maker to ID the contents.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Good job Dan, like your suggestions. You mentioned in a different thread your shop was 20x24, that is a nice size shop. My shop is 425sqft, the one thing I have notice is the bigger the shop, the more places to loose stuff. I think once I move in with the main assemble and peg boards it will get more organized. 

I think you mentioned getting the duct work in for dust, man I would love too. I would love to put a ceiling in but no the funds just are not there right now. Well it will give me one more thing to do later. Anyway good job.

BTW using steam to remove dents in wood, I learned about the when I was a PM, we had a architectural woodworking guy that showed me that trick.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks for the kind words. Is it ok if I add you as a friend? lol how do I do that btw?


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Dan, to add someone to your friends list... On the Forum main page on the left hand side there is an option with a green + (plus) sign named Friends and Contacts. Click on that and, as Harry would say, "Bob's your uncle", there you are.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thank you.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Legs glued up*

Well today I assembled the night stands and had to wait for them to dry before I started to glue on the legs. This was a long drawn out process because I could only do two legs at a time.

I actually ran out of clamps so the old saying, "you can never have to many clamps" is true in this case. 

Note in the picture how the clamp rack is empty of the clamps it once housed.

I was worried about glue squeeze out so I took the extra time to tape all the exposed areas in case I did get glue run out. I think it is worth taking the time because during the final sanding stage it saves time. Nothing is more disheartening then applying the stain only to notice some glue marks. To avoid this I will wipe the entire nightstand down with mineral spirits to expose and glue marks and deal with them accordingly.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Moldings machined and fiitted*

Well today was a great day. The sun was out and I was able to open up the garage door and MAKE SOME SAWDUST! 

I used the thickness planer to mill down some 8/4 Maple I had to conceal the plywood edge on the nightstands. ( the new stand I built out of an old table saw stand worked great.) I also decided to make some side moldings to add a little something to the project. I like the lines it presents when you look at it from the side.
I have not glued them on yet because I want to do all my cutting prior to applying the dark walnut stain.

Tomorrow I will cut the door fronts and rip some 3/4" maple down for edging on the door fronts.

I have to work tonight so hopefully it will be a quiet night but you never know what is in store at the fighting #13 Fire Station :lol:


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Dan,

WOW! You really did open the doors and make a mess :big_boss:

It looks like some serious production taking place in the shop and those night stands are looking AWESOME. Your skills are showing thru in your work and I am anxious to see the finished project. Keep on going.... you are doing GREAT!


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## SteveSawDust (Mar 18, 2009)

Dan...can't use the iron!!! My wife promised not to touch my router table if I leave her ironing board alone (something about me burning some silk blouse???). That sounded like a sweet deal to me, so I agreed. Looking forward to the photos and good luck.
Steve


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Dan,

Wonderful job. :sold:

How did your wood filler turn out for you? They do have multi-colored wood filler on the market, this might be an option to consider.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Bob said:


> Hi Dan,
> 
> WOW! You really did open the doors and make a mess :big_boss:
> 
> It looks like some serious production taking place in the shop and those night stands are looking AWESOME. Your skills are showing thru in your work and I am anxious to see the finished project. Keep on going.... you are doing GREAT!


I am so in need of a dust collection system. I bought the accessory attachment for my thickness planer but I do not have the adapters to reduce it down to 2 1/2" so I can hook it into the shop vac.

But I am saving my pennies and think I will buy a 2 HP 220 volt unit to meet all my present needs and future needs. I just have to wait till the wife goes away again so I can go shopping and sneak it into the shop :dance3:


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> Hi Dan,
> 
> Wonderful job. :sold:
> 
> How did your wood filler turn out for you? They do have multi-colored wood filler on the market, this might be an option to consider.


I tested a small spot on the bottom inside corner and it looks ok. I got the natural wood filler that is stainable so it should work out ok.. well I am hoping it will.

Time will only tell I guess.


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## kartracer63 (Jan 19, 2009)

Dan,

The night stands are looking great. I told my wife that I had to have the dust collector to save my life... and to keep the house from burning down. She offered to chip in.

Eric


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

You did not even have to make a fib, those reasons are both quite true.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Glue up complete*

Well I got the edging all done and its not 100% to my liking but I have learned a few things on this project that I will not repeat on future projects. I guess were our own worst critic but it is my first nightstand.

Will cut the drawers faces and edge them tomorrow and post my progress.

For now here is the nightstand minus the drawer front.

Note the wood fill on the inside bottom edge. My dado blade was dull. I have corrected this with a sharpening "Precision Grinding" for those who live in Edmonton is a great place to buy good quality blades and router bits. They do a great job of re-sharpening your bits and blades.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Door Fronts + Miter Sled*

Well today I was set on doing the doors and cut the plywood to size ( well almost I goofed on the first one see the picture below.)

I found it very difficult to cut the small pieces of maple I cut for the edging ( 3/4" x 1/2" thick) on my 12" sliding compound saw. Have a look at the neat push stick I made form a plan I found. It makes for safe easy ripping of smaller pieces. I also included the thin ripping jig I made which works like a charm.

I had been putting off building a MITRE sled but now with the new plywood cart I can actually see what I have for scrap lumber and low and behold I found a sweet piece of 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood. 

I cut it 12 1/2" x 18 1/4" to make the sled base and then ripped some maple for the runners. In no time flat I had myself a niece handy MITRE sled. After using it I wonder how the heck I did things before without it?

I decided to break a rule for personal taste and that is running the grain of the plywood in a different direction as the sides. My rational is your eye will focus in on the bottom and the drawer face so why not orient the grain to draw you in sort of speaking. ( Hopefully the pictures I have taken will help to illustrate my point.) 

I over cut the maple edging to give me latitude to shave them for a perfect fit once I install the drawer front onto the drawer box.

All that is left is to cut some more edging for the second drawer front and install them onto the drawer box and custom fit them. 

Sanding will have to be done and then I will wipe the project down with mineral spirit to see if I have missed any spots in the sanding stage.

This project has presented a few challenges and it has been a rewarding educational experience thus far. Lets keep our fingers crossed for the staining stage which will make or break me.:dance3:


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Nightstand Tops complete*

Well today I had a great day out in the shop. The weather warmed up and the sun came out so it was a good day to open the double doors up and enjoy some fresh air while I worked on the tops.

I had to redo one of the drawer fronts and then I cut the plywood for the tops and milled down some 8/4 maple. I bought a new blade for ripping a Royce blade. Man this is a sweet blade it cut through the 2" Maple with no worries.

I initially wanted to use my biscuit joiner to attach the edging onto the top but after I cut a test piece I discovered the molding was not thick enough. I did not feel like waiting to go the the store to buy "FF" biscuits so I just brad nailed the edging on and will fill the 3 holes and apply stain. To fill the holes I use fine sanding sawdust and mix it with glue to fill the hole. Does anyone have any other suggestions other than wood filler?

My next stage will be a final sanding after I wipe it down with mineral spirits to see if I missed any spots and with any luck the stain will turn out the way I want it to.


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## RobW (Apr 12, 2008)

Hello Dan
What an interesting and informative post, I enjoyed reading and looking through it.
I also learned a few things, great work, great post!
Rob


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Stain finish a nightmare.*

Well I tried tonight to stain the drawer fronts. One drawer front came out really nice the other is god awful. So I ended up sanding it down and then applied a coat of 1 lb cut shellac to the drawer face. Once it was dry I did a light sanding with 220 grit and then wiped the dust off and attempted to stain the drawer front.

Much to my dismay it was blotchy and well it is late and I am tired so I called it quits for tonight. No sense trying to finish something when your fit to be tied. 

This is a new stain I am trying. It is made by "Saman". It is a oil based stain that staes on the label "Seal, Stain and Varnish. I am disappointed with how quickly it dries and leave little time to make touch ups. 

https://ssl.sogetel.net/aquashine/boutique_en/teinture-huile.asp

I was told by the sales person to use a foam brush and the directions on the can state to using a clean natural bristle brush.

I am seriously considering trying a HVLP spray gun because I have not had to much success using the foam brush on the large table top.

I decide to use the 2lb shellac and cut it with Methyl Hydrate down to a 1 lb cut. I will try this nightstnad with a sprayer and see how it turn out.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Some good tips in there Dan and a first class job you're making of the night stands and photo shoot, the only thing I can complain about is in the first photo, two screwdrivers are not vertical!
Stain..................now that is where I've spoilt several otherwise perfect projects over the years, when I do have to use stain, I use only turps. based ones and highly dilute them, using as many coats as is necessary to achieve the desired result (hopefully).


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*New Day time to change it up a bit*

Well I had a nap after a busy night shift. Some college kids decided to have a small fire to warm up last night and caught the couch and side of the garage on fire. Good thing the neighbors called it in because when we pulled up she was rolling pretty good and was about to enter into the garage. The vinyl siding melted off and the owner who rents this place will not be impressed when they come to see the damage.

I was thinking about how fast this stain/dye dried on me last night so I got to thinking what if I try to stain the night stands out in my garage where there is no heat other that the tiger torch. I figure the drying time should slow up thus giving me time to apply the stain without the hassle of it drying to quickly on me.

So after re-sanding the two tops and the one drawer front (used my orbital sander with 80 grit and worked my way up in increments of 80, 100, 120 and finished up with the palm router with 150 grit.) 

I will be honest I was nervous as hell because I have put in too many hours to count on this project and did not want to see it go to waste if the stain went south again. I made sure there was no dust on the tops by using the shop vac with a brush on it. This works much better that trying to use your compressor to blow it off or using a "tac" cloth. I find the tac cloth leaves a film on the wood and try to steer clear of them if at all possible and hence the shop vac.

I had to work very quickly to apply the stain but I am please with the results. I have good coverage this time and I am confident the second coat Will cover up the few light spots I have.

A note to those who use solid maple to edge birch plywood. Make sure you have the grain running horizontally for the drawer fronts apposed to vertically like I did. It makes it very difficult to apply the stain and still expose the natural grain of the wood. 

Well I am waiting for the first coat to dry I might as well have another cold beer and start my TAXES ! 

P.S.

I took a shot of my thickness planer and showed how I ADAPTED THE 4" OPENING DOWN TO A 2 1/2" SHOP VAC HOOKUP. Using a piece of 4" ABS pipe it slides right over top the dust port on the thickness planer and a standard reducer for 4" to 2 1/2" fits the bill nicely.

I also came up with a good way of holding small pieces to allow me to do the edge as I did the top and let it dry easily. I used small "J" hooks and drilled them into the drawer front. The drawer it self will cover up the holes when I attached the drawer face. It also lets you hang them from a coat hanger if you want to spray a finish on which I wish I could do but at this time lack a HVLP sprayer.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*HVLP Sprayer*

I tried to do one nightstand with a foam brush and it really became frustrating to try and stain this. I definitely need to spray the finish on apposed to doing it by hand. Sad part is I was in Princess Auto tonight and had one at the cashout but decided not to buy it after talking to the cashier. She said they were throwaway after one or two uses. No sense throwing out 150 dollars was my rational.

I still have a chance to recover the cabinet if I get a sprayer and if not I guess I will have to paint it to salvage the wood 

This finishing is not an easy thing I wish it were easier but I guess the learning curve will flatten out eventually before I loose my hair and my mind :lol:

If anyone has a suggestion for a good HVLP please let me know.

Thanks in advance.


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## kolias (Dec 26, 2008)

Very nice work Dan

When you get a chance, let us see the final results


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Changed the type of Finish*

Well after almost a year of looking at the nightstands taking up space in my shop I thought it was time I attempted to finish these. The first stain I tried was not what I expected and I did not like how it turned out so I stripped both nightstands down again and then got ready to try a water base stain made by Saman. https://ssl.sogetel.net/aquashine/boutique_en/accueil.asp

I really like this to use on maple due to the fact it is easy to lay on and it does not streak easily. Anyway I bought a deep rich Chocolate color and wow did it turn out nice. Well for me it did I will let you be the judge. This is only the first coat and I have to let it dry and then touch up the spots that need it.

I am thinking of doing a French polish finish with it by using paste wax and making a bowl out of the stuff with cheese cloth and then slowly rubbing it in with circular motions. I did the same application for my bathroom vanity and it has stood up well over time. The other nice thing is it is easy to apply another coat if it needs it later on down the road.

I may make the top out of solid maple and do the drawer as well. But I have asked my wife and she is happy with the top so I guess I may leave it if she is happy.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Dan,

glad to see you back. i haven't seen a post from you in nearly a month. 

welcome back to the forum, its a great place to learn great router techniques.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thansk Levon it is good to be back.I was about to have shop withdrawal. Been super busy with work and I am on straight days now so I only get a chance when I am on days off due in part to the kids.

Was in Yosemite, CA taking a USAR course so I am finally getting around to the shop again. Once I get these done my TO DO list is a mile long but in time I will get it all done.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Dan,

i know how it is to have a job to work at. i work every day long days and somehow still manage to come home and work on my bathroom remodel.

i will admit at age 60, it is difficult. but im still trying.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Your end tables are the best work I have seen so far. I can tell you have taken your time and it shows. I can not wait to see them stained. That should really bring out the grain.

Thanks for taking time to post some photos.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Nice staining job, Dan.. your colors appear nice and even. I look forward to following this as you apply the finish!!


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Well my friend good to see you again, I was looking at your first posts on this, what a difference in the shop!! Sure was a good thing you finished your shop when you did---did I say "finish"? Yea, fat chance that will ever happen with any of us!! End tables look good. Don't be a stranger.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Good to have you back Dan! I LOVE that stain colour! I have never seen one that rich. Much better then the blue eh?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Thanks Deb it is much better than the blue lol leave it to a women to remember the color I just may have over sprayed a little! 

Well I rubbed some tung oil on the nightstands tonight and had to make another drawer front since the other fell off the table and was rendered "To be used only in the fireplace".

I also put another coat on the table tops to spice them up and make them darker. The photos do not really do it justice but I am happy to a point with the project thus far.

I did take two paths in the finishing process as a learning tool. With one nightstand I put on a wood conditioner and the other I did not. I wanted to see how it turned out and I can attest the wood conditioner works as stated and helps to minimize blotchy wood and allows the stainer to apply a consistent coat on the wood.

I have made a ton of mistakes but for me it equates to a ton of learning and I look at this as my first step in being to finish half as well as Jerry does.

I am hoping to get the tops on and the drawers installed complete with pulls for the final picture. I am still deciding how to attach the top. I was thinking of using wooden dowels into the four legs on the top and then drill on the underside of the tabletop. Any suggestions out there for me?

Here are a few more pics to show my slow and steady progress.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Looking good Dan. I am challenged with your finish abilities, I can finish something if it is natural but when it comes to staining or dying, well color me ignorant cause that I have mostly no experience with it.


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

looking good. As far as attaching the top I think I would go with a few cleats
(one in each corner) attached to the case just inside the opening of the case and then attach to the top with a oblong hole and screw. after all the wood is going to move somewhat


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

kartracer63 said:


> Dan,
> 
> The night stands are looking great. I told my wife that I had to have the dust collector to save my life... and to keep the house from burning down. She offered to chip in.
> 
> Eric


Once I read some of the stuff Bill Pentz wrote I just forwarded it to my Wife and the next thing I knew was a dust collection system was on the top of the list. Got lucky that some one on here pointed me towards a harbor freight magazine coupon so I ended up spending only $150 on a 2hp with a 5 micron bag that is planned to be replaced with a good filter some time in May.

That coupon is still out there in various magazines.


oops, looks like I replied to a long ago post


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

*Nightstands Finished*

I got to spend some time on my last day off working in the shop and decided to make it my mission to get the nightstands done and out of the shop.

I used my new assembly table with the revolving top and it is awesome. Saves me from walking around all the time and now I just spin the top. I drilled a hole through the top to enable me to slip in a 32 8 - 1 1/2" long machine screw through to stop it from spinning if I want it stationary.

I decided to go with a rustic knob and attached the top with dowels.

I saw a nice setup from Rockler "desk top fasteners" Desk Top Fasteners - Rockler Woodworking Tools but wanted to get this done sooner than later. My top is plywood so the movement for the wood should be minimal and I guess time will tell.

The project was a challenge and I have learned so much from it and can not wait to make the matching dresser which is badly needed in the bedroom.

As usual I made a few mistakes but I think we would all agree no project go perfects.... right Deb?


Thanks for taking a peak and thanks to all the encouragement people in this forum have made throughout the project.


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## Robert Potter (Nov 30, 2006)

Great looking tables. Beautiful job.

Bob


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Impressive work Dan.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

It is always nice when a project comes together and is finally complete.

You did a very nice job.

Hope everyone is happy with the final result.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Well done! Completion is a great feeling!


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Dan,
the night stands look great.

maple looks great without any stain, my only question is , is there a reson you used such a dark stain? 
maybe matching some other furniture?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Nice job, Dan.. especially in hiding any mistakes you say you made... the learned skill of a good woodworker! I didn't see them!


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## Eusibius2 (Feb 25, 2010)

TRN_Diesel said:


> ...
> 
> I found it very difficult to cut the small pieces of maple I cut for the edging ( 3/4" x 1/2" thick) on my 12" sliding compound saw. Have a look at the neat push stick I made form a plan I found. It makes for safe easy ripping of smaller pieces. I also included the thin ripping jig I made which works like a charm.
> 
> ...


That's a cool mitre sled... I've been wondering how to get my POS table saw to make a mitre at least half way accurate. This will surely work better than eye-balling it!

And I have to say your end tables look absolutely great! Good job!!!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

levon said:


> hi Dan,
> the night stands look great.
> 
> maple looks great without any stain, my only question is , is there a reson you used such a dark stain?
> maybe matching some other furniture?


My wife wanted a dark stain and I could not convince her to go with Maple legs and a walnut drawer front.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Eusibius2 said:


> That's a cool mitre sled... I've been wondering how to get my POS table saw to make a mitre at least half way accurate. This will surely work better than eye-balling it!
> 
> And I have to say your end tables look absolutely great! Good job!!!


Here is another thing I have added when doing mitre cuts and it makes them dead on accurate. 

Striking Knife - Lee Valley Tools


Thanks for the kind remarks we are very happy with the end tables and I will now start on the matching dresser.


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