# Bosch plunge router base problem



## gwizz (Mar 3, 2012)

Hi All .......
I've never been a plunge router user much but since I've worn out 2 1/2 fixed base routers and found it time to rebuild my router table ( right hand part of a work bench which incorporates a radial arm saw in the in the centre and a flat work service on the left ) I purchased a new model Bosch MRC 23EVSK set which included both a fixed base and a plunge base. The router motor and fixed base are great and I setup the fixed base into my router table as the height can be adjusted through the base. Thinking I could use the plunge base for normal hand held routing I have been sadly disapointed.

The plunge sticks so badly both up and down that it is very hard to set up an lock to use as a fixed base.

I called a Bosch parts / service outlet thinking I would purchase a second fixed base and simply scrap the plunge base but the shop owner who called Bosch was surprised to find out that I would have to pay $158.00 for a replacement fixed base which is $10.00 less that I can get the router and fixed base for.

Is anyone else having problems with the plunge base ?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Richard, my plunge mechanism works okay but the little stepped rotating platform sticks like you-know-know-what-to-a-blanket; makes me crazy! All things considered I can't say it's a joy to use, although it's actual performance is fine.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I am heading out to the garage to see if I can figure out why you guys are having problems. I will post a response later.


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## mveach (Aug 21, 2010)

While I can't help you with this model, I will have a extra plunge base for the 1617 soon


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## nickz (Feb 21, 2017)

*Plunge base sticking*

Hopefully it is okay that I am resurrecting this thread. I have a brand new MRC23EVSK sitting in front of me. This is the second machine I have had in the last two weeks. I sent the first back because the plunge base became very sticky, especially in the last half of it downward travel. The replacement machine is similarly afflicted but is brand new. Neither router is a refurb. Is any one able to speak to this? Is this a known issue for this router? Any feedback is welcome.


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## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

OIL the tubes.

People often dont realise that although the machine is "NEW", it may well be more than a year since it left the production line.
Warehouse, wholesaler, distributor, retailer, all have shelf life added on and the original tiny smear of oil or grease applied at the assembly table is normally well on its way to being dried up by the time you unpack your "new" toy..


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I'd want to check the condition of the tubes and the interior of the opening they slide through. Any roughness? If so, it is a defect and needs to be returned or polished with a very fine abrasive paste. If it feels smooth, cleaning with alcohol would be my first step, followed by a dry lubricant you'd use to lube the interior of a table saw. But I'd go light on the lubricant. 

Could also be a hang-up with the return spring inside the tube. Worth checking.

Sounds to me like it might be a problem with that particular production run If it still sticks after cleaning, return it and get a 1617 kit.


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

I appreciate all these tips, as I'll be unboxing my 1617 in the next few days. It always helps to know what potential problems to look for.


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## nickz (Feb 21, 2017)

DesertRatTom said:


> I'd want to check the condition of the tubes and the interior of the opening they slide through. Any roughness? If so, it is a defect and needs to be returned or polished with a very fine abrasive paste. If it feels smooth, cleaning with alcohol would be my first step, followed by a dry lubricant you'd use to lube the interior of a table saw. But I'd go light on the lubricant.
> 
> Could also be a hang-up with the return spring inside the tube. Worth checking.
> 
> Sounds to me like it might be a problem with that particular production run If it still sticks after cleaning, return it and get a 1617 kit.


Thanks for the tips. Bosch also recommended a dry lubricant. I'll give it a shot and see what happens. I agree that it may be an issue limited to a certain production run. 

Just moments ago I ordered a Dewalt 618b3 combo and a Milwaukee 5616-24 as I am feeling a bit apprehensive about Bosch. I figure between the three I ought to get one properly functioning router.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

My kind of guy!!!


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## nickz (Feb 21, 2017)

honesttjohn said:


> My kind of guy!!!


Well, I just inadvertently jumped down a rabbit hole. I love the internet and everything. But, there is something to be said for being stuck with whatever tools your local tool stores sell. I have both the Dewalt 618 and Milwaukee 5616 at the house. Both have distinct pros and cons. Too many choices....


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

For what it's worth I did not have access to my Makita 3612c for about 8 years, and when I did regain access I found it in the same router table and that it had not been used at all during those 8 years. It did not plunge well so I rubbed on a thin layer of a silicon spray lubricant. The plunging was essentially restored to its original condition.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Silicones, WD-40 and wet oils/grease and finishes do NOT go together or play nicely....
this *IS NOT* a myth.
You don't need gobs of siliconized wax, silicone or wet oils/grease to contaminate the surface of your project.... Like they say, very, very little goes a loooong way for about forever!!!
why risk or take a chance screwing up your finish, your project, risk set backs and untold rework if alternatives are available that are much safer???
white lithium is a disaster waiting to happen across the board...
also wet lubes and WD (WD is *NOT* a lubricant) tend to collect all kinds of trash and make working things more difficult to operate... it also destroys bearings and motor internals...

*run a quick test: *
Many people use WD-40 to help them remove rust from cast iron surfaces - until I ran into the silicone problem and smartened up.... Now, apply some WD-40 to you table saw surface, work the surface well, as if you were removing a rusty spot. Then, clean the surface really well, but leave a small area near the blade where the WD-40 is not removed so well. 
Now, go through the entire process as if you were doing a project start to finish on scrap test piece(s).... 
Apply some shellac, to seal the surface- you are likely to see fish eyes, indicating that the shellac has not wetted the surface properly. This is the problem with silicones, WD and wet oils....
do the same for siliconized automotive wax...
putting these products on your moving parts, bits, blades and tools in general you risk contaminating/ruining your project....

*VOE...*

be smart and get ahead of the game... completely remove all silicones, WD-40 and wet oils from the shop....
stop jeopardizing or putting all of your work at risk...... 
*
Finishing: Silicone Contamination*


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

True about it not being a lubricant. The WD stands for water displacer. Log truck drivers love the stuff up here. In the winter salt water spray gets into the trailer electrical connections and a good healthy spray of WD40 will displace the water salt mix and get their lights and onboard scales working again. 

I also agree with not using oils, greases, or anything sticky in the shop (even where it won't or can't touch wood). Those type products are dust magnets and will cause grief later. Any lube on those parts must either be dry to start with, like powdered graphite, or must dry to the touch after application.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

A contrarian view.
Bronze bearings love lubricant.
My 621 plunges more smoothly when I soak the hell out of my tubes and bearings. Notwithstanding, I don't leave it soaking. Rather, after the lube, I plunge the head and let it rest compressed & locked. & when in use, I wipe the tubes clean and wax them.
If the head sticks on the way down I use #400 SIC and solvent on the tubes. Follow that with 30 wt motor oil and detail the tubes before use. With oil around, chips and lab debris adhere to the tubes, not good.


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## nickz (Feb 21, 2017)

Coincidentally, the routers I have in front of me are a bit of a study in lubrication. The Bosch has a thin clear film over the stanchions. The Milwaukee is heavily oiled and said oil seems to get on everything. The Dewalt appears to be dry. Oddly enough, the Dewalt has the smoothest plunge action. Athough, the Milwaukee is pretty close. I'm not sure if I should do anything to the Bosch. I don't want to jeopardize the option of returning it.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

nickz said:


> I'm not sure if I should do anything to the Bosch. I don't want to jeopardize the option of returning it.


dry lube like TriFlow...


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## nickz (Feb 21, 2017)

Stick486 said:


> dry lube like TriFlow...


Thanks. Will give it a shot tonight.


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## nickz (Feb 21, 2017)

A little bit of TriFlow did the trick. Thanks for the tip. Now I just have to decide which one to keep.


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## Peteroo1 (Feb 28, 2017)

*Jerky plunge on Bosch MRC23EVS(GOF 1600CE in Australia )*

Hi 
I had this problem out with an engineer at Triton years ago. He tried to tell me that my remedy, of pushing down on the lock turret side, on most routers, would fix the problem, was wrong. He was wrong. Now I have the GOF1600 I lubricate the turrets and push down with the greater force on the turret side which the depth lock is on.

When plunging on the work piece for an edge forming process, this is really trickey with the router in question. I always advise anyone having trouble with a router process to practice with the cord unplugged and out of the workshop at a desk or table. It is fun and you get to know the machine without the noise and risk. Then use the router at the height you will be machining at. Being 64 with skull and spinal injuries I make and use height adjustable workbenches wherever possible. This gives me control and good sight of what is going on. You may like to refer to my article in the November 2012 issue of The Woodworker and Woodturner magazine from Britain, or go on line googling height adjustable workbenches to get an idea of what can be done to make woodwork better.

Hope this helps
Peteroo


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## nickz (Feb 21, 2017)

Peteroo1 said:


> Hi
> I had this problem out with an engineer at Triton years ago. He tried to tell me that my remedy, of pushing down on the lock turret side, on most routers, would fix the problem, was wrong. He was wrong. Now I have the GOF1600 I lubricate the turrets and push down with the greater force on the turret side which the depth lock is on.
> 
> When plunging on the work piece for an edge forming process, this is really trickey with the router in question. I always advise anyone having trouble with a router process to practice with the cord unplugged and out of the workshop at a desk or table. It is fun and you get to know the machine without the noise and risk. Then use the router at the height you will be machining at. Being 64 with skull and spinal injuries I make and use height adjustable workbenches wherever possible. This gives me control and good sight of what is going on. You may like to refer to my article in the November 2012 issue of The Woodworker and Woodturner magazine from Britain, or go on line googling height adjustable workbenches to get an idea of what can be done to make woodwork better.
> ...


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