# What to look for in a drill press?



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Reading this string reminds me that the one tool I would like to replace is my bench mounted drill press. A small one just doesn't have the reach. Back to cheap compromise not being adequate. I think Jet has a good unit. Any suggestions on good what would be a good choice.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

DesertRatTom said:


> Reading this string reminds me that the one tool I would like to replace is my bench mounted drill press. A small one just doesn't have the reach. Back to cheap compromise not being adequate. I think Jet has a good unit. Any suggestions on good what would be a good choice.


Try to avoid any DP with a table that has x slots to attach things to. That's probably going to jack then price up but you won't regret it in the long run. I have the 16.5 Delta and I don't recommend it and any that look like it are probably clones. The X makes it hard to position things under the chuck since the spacing between the arms of the X dictates where you go plus the underside of the edges aren't flat and there are flanges close to the edge so clamping and keeping clamps tight are hard.


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Try to avoid any DP with a table that has x slots to attach things to. That's probably going to jack then price up but you won't regret it in the long run. I have the 16.5 Delta and I don't recommend it and any that look like it are probably clones. The X makes it hard to position things under the chuck since the spacing between the arms of the X dictates where you go plus the underside of the edges aren't flat and there are flanges close to the edge so clamping and keeping clamps tight are hard.


Not quite sure I follow what you mean Chuck, what slot pattern would be better? I got a drill press with X slots because I figured they would give a lot more flexibility in positioning drill vices of different sizes than parallel slots would, and it does seem to work out pretty well.
I agree about the incovenience of the ribs underneath the table though. I don't know how much money you have to spend to get a table that's flat underneath... they never show that angle in the catalogue pictures!


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The Delta 20 (back when I bought the 16.5, don't know if they are still available) had T slots like a milling machine table. I don't know if they had a flat bottom but it wouldn't matter as much if the top is more usable. I have a cross slide vide, which is really handy for drilling accurate holes in small pieces and I had to mount it on a board so that I could mount the board on the table. 

I guess part of my rant about the tables on the cheaper DPs is based on adding attachments but it can be over come by adding on a wooden table or two layer wooden table with one staying attached to the table and other(s) going on and off as needed.


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> The Delta 20 (back when I bought the 16.5, don't know if they are still available) had T slots like a milling machine table. I don't know if they had a flat bottom but it wouldn't matter as much if the top is more usable. I have a cross slide vide, which is really handy for drilling accurate holes in small pieces and I had to mount it on a board so that I could mount the board on the table.


Oh I see, yes I have seen drill presses with T-slots. Only on commercial-grade machines north of £1000 though. I can see they would be much better. But out of my price range. The smaller, cheaper machines all seem to have through-slots, either parallel or diagonal.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Andy it just always seem I am frustrated by trying to attach anything to the X's. Maybe I just need to use more ingenuity. It just seems to me that they could more user friendly.

I think I'll move these posts to a new thread. I think it deserves it.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

Would seriously consider old rebuilts like mine.
Its salient features are indicated.
But just as important, its new large work surface (MIC6 aluminum), casters and through the cutter hole vacuum.
More on drilling machines.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I tend to buy new most of the time, so specific brand and model recommendations will work. However, on this tool I think I might dig around among used machines. I can see that there should be zero play in the quill or drive shaft (bearings worn). What else should I look for in a 110v machine? Looks like decent new machines begin around $600, which means used should start around $300. That sound about right.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

4-6" of quill travel would be nice.
And there is no substitute for electronic variable $peed, (VFD,3 phase).
I would not expect much machine for 3-600$ new or used.
Drilling 1" holes in 2 x 4's? Then nothing much matters.
But close order drilling requires a flat square table and fence.
<.003" total runout, VS and machine that doesn't vibrate.
A means for clamping the work is essential too.
***********************************************************
What old drills are great? They must be re-built x reputable sources. But if done well, they pay for themselves 5x over.
Buffalo, Atlas, DoAll, Davis & Wells, Powermatics, Rockwells, General, Clausing, Delta, Pre'65 Sears, walker-turner, Duro, & Wilton. 
e.g.


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## digfire (Dec 5, 2014)

Finding the perfect drill press.

They have recommendations along with info like price, etc. I hope this could be of some use to you.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

plumefosset said:


> Finding the perfect drill press.
> 
> They have recommendations along with info like price, etc. I hope this could be of some use to you.


That is very interesting, thanks for posting.

Herb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I think finding one with a decent bearing is a good thing . Seems you hear about play in the Chuck with some models way to soon . I bought a General and have been happy so far , although I wonder why mine doesn't have a hole in the table ? 
I always have to place a piece of material on the tables deck so the drill goes threw the material without hitting the cast iron


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## hawkeye10 (Jul 28, 2015)

TheCableGuy said:


> I think finding one with a decent bearing is a good thing . Seems you hear about play in the Chuck with some models way to soon . I bought a General and have been happy so far , although I wonder why mine doesn't have a hole in the table ?
> I always have to place a piece of material on the tables deck so the drill goes threw the material without hitting the cast iron


Rick this is just to good to pass up. >

You could always take the table to someone that has a drill press and have them drill a hole in it. :laugh2:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

hawkeye10 said:


> Rick this is just to good to pass up. >
> 
> You could always take the table to someone that has a drill press and have them drill a hole in it. :laugh2:


Hey , now that's a good idea! :lol:


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

hawkeye10 said:


> Rick this is just to good to pass up. >
> 
> You could always take the table to someone that has a drill press and have them drill a hole in it. :laugh2:



I was thinking along those lines of maybe suggesting Rick drill one.

Rick, they do that because some people don't want a hole, and others only want a small hole, while others want a larger one. 

Herb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> I was thinking along those lines of maybe suggesting Rick drill one.
> 
> Rick, they do that because some people don't want a hole, and others only want a small hole, while others want a larger one.
> 
> Herb


Ok I seriously wasn't aware of that , as this is the only drill press that I've seen that doesn't have one pre drilled . 
Myself I prefer a small one


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

That's the type table I wish I had on my DP. The hole in my table only accommodates bits to about 1 1/2" and when it gets close I don't trust my chances of hitting it by accident with a Forstner or adjustable bit anyway so it's better to have the sacrificial surface on it. Plus the sacrificial surface helps prevent blowout when you drill. I don't really consider the hole any particular advantage or disadvantage.


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## old coasty (Aug 15, 2014)

TheCableGuy said:


> Ok I seriously wasn't aware of that , as this is the only drill press that I've seen that doesn't have one pre drilled .
> Myself I prefer a small one


Therefore, why don't you do as Herb suggested and lift the table up a drill a small hole.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I would say its a given in order to having a good drill press you would have to build or buy axillary table?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

old coasty said:


> Therefore, why don't you do as Herb suggested and lift the table up a drill a small hole.


After Charles post I think I'll take his advice and just keep it stock .


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Most drill presses are made for metal working an i made a removable wooden top with a fence on "T" tracks for mine, as I have another set up with a 4 way vise for metal working and some wood working.

The wooden tops are easy to make and have a couple of hand wheels with finger tabs to clamp them to the metal table and they can be removed in less than a minute for metal working.

Herb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> Most drill presses are made for metal working an i made a removable wooden top with a fence on "T" tracks for mine, as I have another set up with a 4 way vise for metal working and some wood working.
> 
> The wooden tops are easy to make and have a couple of hand wheels with finger tabs to clamp them to the metal table and they can be removed in less than a minute for metal working.
> 
> Herb


I may look into doing just that . Well , after the garage is insulated


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

plumefosset said:


> Finding the perfect drill press.
> 
> They have recommendations along with info like price, etc. I hope this could be of some use to you.


The review did not cover quill travel. I inherited a vintage craftsman that has almost 4" travel The extra travel comes in handy


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

paduke said:


> The review did not cover quill travel. I inherited a vintage craftsman that has almost 4" travel The extra travel comes in handy


I agree, that is important in woodworking more than in metal working. My old Atlas has a quill travel of 4 1/2" and that sure is nicer than the 3" on some of the newer machines.

Herb


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> I agree, that is important in woodworking more than in metal working. My old Atlas has a quill travel of 4 1/2" and that sure is nicer than the 3" on some of the newer machines.
> 
> Herb


Quill travel is clearly very important. My present DP only does 2 1/2 or so, and it is a constant frustration. I always check that out when I go looking for one.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

On the 'X' thing, I have a JET with a round table. The pedestal on the underside is clamped from below, so rotates as necessary (in the horizontal plane).
The one thing I hate about it is the vertical rack. It's not permanently fixed...as in welded...to the column. In my opinion it's a Micky Mouse attachment system.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> On the 'X' thing, I have a JET with a round table. The pedestal on the underside is clamped from below, so rotates as necessary (in the horizontal plane).
> The one thing I hate about it is the vertical rack. It's not permanently fixed...as in welded...to the column. In my opinion it's a Micky Mouse attachment system.


As you know ,Dan , that is so you can rotate the table out of the way and the rack moves with the table. Very handy for drilling holes in long pieces by rotating the table out of the way and still having the convenience of the hand crank to raise and lower the table.

I think I may have done this once in my lifetime so far.:grin::grin:

Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

#$#@#@&!...now I have to go and take another look at it. I _already_ didn't like it before my machinist buddy looked at it and confirmed my dislike (for it).


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Whoa! I just noticed in Rick's pic; same rack attachment system.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Whoa! I just noticed in Rick's pic; same rack attachment system.


I think it is the standard of the industry. All of them I have seen since the 50"s have been that way.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=DRill+Pre...www.moore-tool.com/store/images/dp-1000vs.jpg

http://www.pmmodelengines.com/shop/machine-models/drill-press-kit/

Herb


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

.......well, I guess that makes me feel better.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

The thing about dat crank is it dont work so good if you put a woodworking table on the drill press.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

...anything _else_ to make me less euphoric?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> ...anything _else_ to make me less euphoric?


more of your stash is gone...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

It's ALL gone...I have to make more. I blame _you_ guys (for making me drink it all).


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## furboo (Oct 12, 2015)

I have a Grizzly G7943 that I bought new roughly 10 years ago. A nifty feature is that I bought it as a bench top, but then 5 years ago converted it to a floor standing model by adding a longer mast. Overall, it's fine. But one thing I find a bit annoying is the depth stop. Like many drills, it uses 2 nuts on a threaded rod. They need to be pretty tight to avoid vibrating loose, and spinning them down to a depth, and then spinning them back out of the way when done, takes a lot of patience. The Powermatics have a pretty nice depth stop that looks like it gets around these issues, along with a lot of other nice features. But of course, that comes at a price.

I agree with Herb that adding a wood top is the way to go, with clamps on t-trac, maybe a fence, etc....that's been on my to-do list to do for a while.

I'm on the look out for an old unit to refurbish.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

furboo said:


> I have a Grizzly G7943 that I bought new roughly 10 years ago. A nifty feature is that I bought it as a bench top, but then 5 years ago converted it to a floor standing model by adding a longer mast. Overall, it's fine. But one thing I find a bit annoying is the depth stop. Like many drills, it uses 2 nuts on a threaded rod. They need to be pretty tight to avoid vibrating loose, and spinning them down to a depth, and then spinning them back out of the way when done, takes a lot of patience. The Powermatics have a pretty nice depth stop that looks like it gets around these issues, along with a lot of other nice features. But of course, that comes at a price.
> 
> I agree with Herb that adding a wood top is the way to go, with clamps on t-trac, maybe a fence, etc....that's been on my to-do list to do for a while.
> 
> I'm on the look out for an old unit to refurbish.


I agree on the depth stops. The old Atlas I have has one that you squeeze and can run the half nut up and down the shaft to set it, and then turn the knurled nut for fine adjustment.

It also has 2 clamping rings for the table. one on the table and one below the table,so you can unclamp the table and swing it out of the way without it moving down as there is no hand crank to raise and lower it.

Several years ago I had a bench top drill press that I made a wooden table that I bolted onto the cast iron one. After I had it all bolted up I found, like Dan says, that I could not crank it up or down because the table interfered with the crank. 

I bought a surplus gear drive 110v. motor off the internet and removed the crank to couple it up to the crank shaft to raise and lower the table. The motor,$39. + $4. for a 3 way switch gave me a power lift on the table.

Herb


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

I like that motor idea Herb. Shop Notes (or Woodsmith) had a DP table plan a few years back that used miter gears to crank the table--i salvaged a set from an old C-man RAS but haven't gotten around to adding them to my drill yet.

When i first saw the plan, i priced buying miter gears--your motor idea would be cheaper!!

earl


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

greenacres2 said:


> I like that motor idea Herb. Shop Notes (or Woodsmith) had a DP table plan a few years back that used miter gears to crank the table--i salvaged a set from an old C-man RAS but haven't gotten around to adding them to my drill yet.
> 
> When i first saw the plan, i priced buying miter gears--your motor idea would be cheaper!!
> 
> earl


it was similar to this one,Earl: Japan Servo Induction Motor w Capacitor 115 V 20 Watts 285 RPM 1 6 Gear | eBay

I bought a threaded coupling from Lowes ande reamed it out to fit the shafts on the drill press and the motor and drilled and tapped set screws for both. Then built a hanger to secure it to the table, and mounted the 3 way switch on the edge of the table.

Herb


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Great idea Herb. Harry Sinclair was having trouble cranking his RAS after shoulder surgery a few years ago and I suggested he try rigging something like that up but had no idea where to find the motor. Getting that up here is priCey but our Princess Auto chain sells surplus motors like that sometimes so I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for one like that.

I would also like to come up with a plan to reduce my quill speed by another 5 or 6 to 1. My slowest speed is 250 and I'd like to get that down to at least 50 for drilling metal. I have an old metal lathe that turns at 25rpm at its slowest and you would have to see the metal strands coming off a bit at that speed to believe how much faster it is drilling at slow speeds.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Great idea Herb. Harry Sinclair was having trouble cranking his RAS after shoulder surgery a few years ago and I suggested he try rigging something like that up but had no idea where to find the motor. Getting that up here is priCey but our Princess Auto chain sells surplus motors like that sometimes so I'll have to keep my eyes peeled for one like that.
> 
> I would also like to come up with a plan to reduce my quill speed by another 5 or 6 to 1. My slowest speed is 250 and I'd like to get that down to at least 50 for drilling metal. I have an old metal lathe that turns at 25rpm at its slowest and you would have to see the metal strands coming off a bit at that speed to believe how much faster it is drilling at slow speeds.


Charles I bet your lathe has an intermediate set of cone pulleys to get that kind of reduction, if it is not a gear driven lathe.
Today they use variable speed motors to acheive the same results. I wonder if if a person used a variable speed motor in conjunction with a cone pulley to do the same thing.

Something like this :Sears.com

Too small for drill press tho.

Herb


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

FYI Herb, Canadians can't usually follow your links to Sears because as soon as their site reads our cookies and sees we are from the great frozen north they redirect us to the Canadian Sears. Can you get a variable speed motor in single phase?

The lathe I have is an English made Harrison that I bought from a machine shop that was phasing it out for a newer faster model. Slow is not an issue with me. It means I make mistakes at a greatly reduced rate is all. It's an old gear drive and holds the concrete pad in my 28 x 35 shop down in strong winds. I was hoping to find a manual for it so I could figure out how to cut threads with it. I had just gotten internet a couple years before and decided to try and find the maker which I did. I sent them an email asking about it and they replied back that they needed the serial number and told me where to look. I looked and the number was 008. I replied back with it and some photos and they said they asked the oldest serving employee at the plant and he said he didn't recognize it. They said they didn't think it was theirs. I said but it had the serial # exactly where you told me to look and it has Harrison cast into the metal in 5 locations on the lathe. Sorry, we can't help you they says. They only started making engine lathes in the 40s so I'm thinking the Chinese must have already been doing knockoffs even back then. Picture a wry grin on my face about now.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Charles; I'll bet any old retired machinist could figure it out, _without_ a manual.
I'll ask my machinist neighbor if he has any suggestions.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Thanks Dan. A cousin tried explaining it once but I didn't get a chance to try it and I forgot what he had told me. I retain printed instructions much better.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> FYI Herb, Canadians can't usually follow your links to Sears because as soon as their site reads our cookies and sees we are from the great frozen north they redirect us to the Canadian Sears. Can you get a variable speed motor in single phase?
> 
> The lathe I have is an English made Harrison that I bought from a machine shop that was phasing it out for a newer faster model. Slow is not an issue with me. It means I make mistakes at a greatly reduced rate is all. It's an old gear drive and holds the concrete pad in my 28 x 35 shop down in strong winds. I was hoping to find a manual for it so I could figure out how to cut threads with it. I had just gotten internet a couple years before and decided to try and find the maker which I did. I sent them an email asking about it and they replied back that they needed the serial number and told me where to look. I looked and the number was 008. I replied back with it and some photos and they said they asked the oldest serving employee at the plant and he said he didn't recognize it. They said they didn't think it was theirs. I said but it had the serial # exactly where you told me to look and it has Harrison cast into the metal in 5 locations on the lathe. Sorry, we can't help you they says. They only started making engine lathes in the 40s so I'm thinking the Chinese must have already been doing knockoffs even back then. Picture a wry grin on my face about now.


Charles, do you think that the thread cutting arrange would match some of the newer models? That is pretty basic stuff and newer models usually change other features and leave that one alone.

I did a search and found a lot of information on Harrison lathes I wonder if any resemble yours.?

Her Harrison Lathe | eBay


Herb


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The picture of the green one has some similar elements Herb but mine is older than it is. My gear housing is rounded and is all cast and part of the cast is the lid which is also rounded. It has also has the more modern style of tool holder. Mine has the top bolt and rocker style. The rocker is moved back and forth to level the cutter and alter it's angle a bit. I'd post pics but I'm 1000 km away from it till sometime in June.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"I'd post pics but I'm 1000 km away from it till sometime in June."
-Charles

Have you ever found _any_ info/pics, say on vintage machinery sites?
These guys seem to have a s*** load of info on vintage machinery, manuals, and parts.
HARRISON L6 13" Metal Lathe Operator's & Parts Manual | Ozark Tool Manuals & Books


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