# Mirror gloss finish



## Estoril-5 (Oct 28, 2016)

Hi guys,

I'm looking to finish a piece of work with a high gloss finish. I've seen some people use two part epoxy or 2k epoxy and I think it's widely available in the US but I'm struggling to find exactly what I need in the UK.

Any suggestions guys?

Cheers

H



Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Estoril-5 (Oct 28, 2016)

Something like this.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

Depending on what you can use the item for you could use clear lacquer. Epoxy is very difficult to work with and gives a cheap looking finish. Shellac is something else you could use and you can rub it to a nice smooth glossy finish.


----------



## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

You dont need epoxy. its a nightmare to apply evenly.

If you just want a shiny surface, use polyurethane clear gloss varnish.
If you want to make it even easier, mix the poly with white spirit 50 / 50 and wipe it on with a small sponge or piece of lint free cloth.

2 coats 24 hours apart will give you this shine....


----------



## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

That is beautiful, Bob. Thanks for the advice. By the way, did your sister put the hinges on the box she made? I'm interested in how she accomplished that.


----------



## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

Also, I don't know what white spirit is. Thanks.


----------



## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

IMHO Sanding matters more than the actual finish.


----------



## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

chessnut2 said:


> Also, I don't know what white spirit is. Thanks.


UK term for mineral spirits. But I think the Brits also use the word for Gin :grin:


----------



## scottgrove (Sep 4, 2016)

It is not the type of finish but the rub of that finish.
First you need to fill the grain with finish or a paste filler. Then build up you desired finish, and sand, polish and buff. I sand up to 4000 and with a light buff it is a mirror.
(be sure you are using a clear gloss finish with no fillers)
I like lacquer or polyester as they polish easy.
enjoy


----------



## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Jim, She has been busy at home re-tiling a downstairs cloakroom and I think the box has been put to one side. I will ask her next time I email.

Yes, white spirit is known as mineral spirits in the usa. 
Wipe on poly is available in the uk, but at stupid prices, you can make your own for a fraction of the cost.. 
We also refer to ANY clear alcohol as white, i.e. gin, vodka, rum, etc.


----------



## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Scott, that sounds a bit excessive.
The box pictured was sanded to 400, not 4000.
I cant even buy finer than 1000 in the shops here.


----------



## Estoril-5 (Oct 28, 2016)

sunnybob said:


> You dont need epoxy. its a nightmare to apply evenly.
> 
> If you just want a shiny surface, use polyurethane clear gloss varnish.
> If you want to make it even easier, mix the poly with white spirit 50 / 50 and wipe it on with a small sponge or piece of lint free cloth.
> ...


Wow, that is awesome!

Can you recommend a product that I can get here in the UK?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Estoril-5 (Oct 28, 2016)

sunnybob said:


> Wipe on poly is available in the uk, but at stupid prices, you can make your own for a fraction of the cost..
> .


Now you've got me intrigued, how do you make your wipe on poly?

P.s. that box looks stunning!


Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

research MINWAX wipe on poly. Its american and every where I've looked I think it was flown over first class one tin at a time.

I buy the cheapest Polyeurethane CLEAR gloss I can find. It MUST be oil based, NOT water based.

Measure some out in a disposable cup, and add another 30 to 50% white spirit (adjust it to your preferences). I measure with a tea spoon. if youre coating a smallish trinket box then about 6 spoons of poly to 2 or 3 spoons of white spirit will give you two coats.
Stir it well and use a small piece of sponge or lint free cloth to wipe it all over the wood. Use latex gloves because its very sticky. Once youve wiped the whole box, throw away the gloves, drape the cloth over what remains in the cup ready for the second coat the next day, and put the box somewhere covered so that room dust doesnt fall on it and stick to the poly.

If you have any runs (shouldnt, if you have you put it on too thick) use very fine sandpaper or even 0000 wire wool to rub the surface smooth, and coat again.
job done.


----------



## Estoril-5 (Oct 28, 2016)

Now I can post pictures, this is the level of gloss I was after...










Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

ok, it may take you 4 coats of wipe on (lol)


----------



## Estoril-5 (Oct 28, 2016)

Going to ask a daft question here, does solvent based poly mean oil based or are they two different bases?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

I have never seen solvent based. 
The only difference I have seen is OIL, or WATER.

The clue is to look at the little sign that tells you how to wash the brush. If its in a sink or under a tap, thats water based. Stay away.
if it shows thinners or mineral spirits or white spirit, thats your man.


----------



## Estoril-5 (Oct 28, 2016)

Awesome, I'll pop into some local sheds and take a look.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## Estoril-5 (Oct 28, 2016)

P.s. here's an example of a solvent based poly I found.

http://www.decoratingwarehouse.co.u...or0dVmszy6DatHz63q_fNxjwvoy9FYp0_aBoCzTDw_wcB

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Amazing. Consider the fact I live in Cyprus, and I have EXACTLY that tin in my garage. Its good. pretty thin but spreads well. I would dilute that one at 25% white spirit.


----------



## scottgrove (Sep 4, 2016)

you can buff out from 400.


----------



## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

sunnybob said:


> Jim, She has been busy at home re-tiling a downstairs cloakroom and I think the box has been put to one side. I will ask her next time I email.
> 
> Yes, white spirit is known as mineral spirits in the usa.
> Wipe on poly is available in the uk, but at stupid prices, you can make your own for a fraction of the cost..
> We also refer to ANY clear alcohol as white, i.e. gin, vodka, rum, etc.


I'll be looking forward to it. And thanks for the info about spirits and make your own poly.


----------



## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

Jim, not such good news. She got impatient and didnt wait to get mini screws like I told her. Its finished, but the hinges are a size too big and the lid is a loose fit. I think she might have screwed up (screwed, get it?) on the rear of the box.

I dont think we will be getting any pictures. But to be fair, it is her first box.


----------



## Speyerer (Aug 21, 2009)

For cutting boards I coat with mineral oil first then a warm coat of a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax.


----------



## Estoril-5 (Oct 28, 2016)

Speyerer said:


> For cutting boards I coat with mineral oil first then a warm coat of a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax.


What kind of finish do you get with that combination?

Any pics?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## sunnybob (Apr 3, 2015)

H, mineral oil is what we know as baby oil. Some are perfumed, some arent (johnsons for example is, food grade isnt) But it depends on your need. Mineral oil on a cutting board needs to be renewed regularly and so is no good for outdoors use.


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I think for a high gloss finish, it would help to use a scraper instead of sandpaper. A scraper cuts across the grain, sandpaper roughs it up. A scraper gives you a fairly glossy surface to start with. High grit sandpaper will also produce a very fine dust that works into the surface and can play havoc with the finish.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

H; there are a few past threads here featuring member-made cutting boards, with pics!
Also recipes for the Mineral oil + beeswax solution. In answer to your question, it leaves a beautiful 'warm' burnished sheen (not high gloss). It's pretty much waterproof in the kitchen prep sense...but definitely _not_ dishwasher safe.
It needs to be re-coated once in a while; a painless procedure.
http://www.routerforums.com/finishing-touch/76906-unidentified-cutting-board-finish.html#post840161


----------



## scottgrove (Sep 4, 2016)

I use a random orbital and the Mirka system with foam backed pads which eliminates the suction sick on flat surfaces. The velco backing also makes it very quick.
three passes with each grit and I am done.
180, 360, 500, 1000, 2000, 4000, buff


----------



## Estoril-5 (Oct 28, 2016)

scottgrove said:


> I use a random orbital and the Mirka system with foam backed pads which eliminates the suction sick on flat surfaces. The velco backing also makes it very quick.
> three passes with each grit and I am done.
> 180, 360, 500, 1000, 2000, 4000, buff


Sounds like a long process! Do you use a compound to buff with?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk


----------



## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Found this video, there may be others.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Tom; WOW!!! A variation of casting resin?


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I have sanded wood to a mirror finish without any finish by using the micro mesh discs on a ROS. I used to do it on end grain cutting boards, the harder the wood the better it was. 
The trick is to use all 9 discs from 800-12,000g and don't skip a disc. Then if you put a hard wax like Carnuba and buff it out , you can use it for shaving.
Herb


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

daninvan said:


> tom; wow!!! A variation of casting resin?


I hate epoxy, or any 2 part mix.


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Heh...*



Herb Stoops said:


> I hate epoxy, or any 2 part mix.


I hear that!


----------

