# 220 Volt Extension Cords



## jbullockusanet (Nov 22, 2010)

I have recently acquired a used Delta Unisaw with a 3HP 220 Volt motor and the cord on the saw ends about 10-15 feet from a new 220 Volt dedicated outlet served by a 30 amp circuit breaker. I believe the cord on the Unisaw has the original plug. How long an extension cord can I use and what wire gauge would be required to safely serve the Unisaw? Any help in setting this up safely would be appreciated.:moil:


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

30 Amp breaker requires #10 ga wiring, John. In theory you could probably run the motor with a 12 ga cord, because it's relatively short, but if you're fortunate enough to have a 3HP/220V beast of a motor, why would you want to handicap it with inadequate wiring. Obviously you don't; that's why you're asking! 
The motor probably draws 21+ amps?


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

There is an old rule in electronics, which is that you can always run bigger wire, but you cannot run smaller wire. In short, it will not hurt a thing if you run "too big an extension cord" to your saw.

My 3hp Unisaw, and the one before it, will run fine on 12 gauge circuits (20 amp), but I ran 10 gauge to them because I'm just that way. I like the "extra amp room"and I believe it's a good practice. 

If you are running ten gauge extension cord, you should be able to run it the same as you would hard wire 10 gauge, if not more. I suspect even twelve gauge multi-strand could run a long way. The weak point would be your connections. Simply put, if you are not generating heat in the line, you're okay.

I have a generator I run to a five conductor 8 gauge. I tied leads together and made it into a monster, 100' foot extension I'd run even the Unisaw from. Of course, the gen wouldn't appreciate it.





jbullockusanet said:


> I have recently acquired a used Delta Unisaw with a 3HP 220 Volt motor and the cord on the saw ends about 10-15 feet from a new 220 Volt dedicated outlet served by a 30 amp circuit breaker. I believe the cord on the Unisaw has the original plug. How long an extension cord can I use and what wire gauge would be required to safely serve the Unisaw? Any help in setting this up safely would be appreciated.:moil:


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I also have a unisaw and would go with the 10 gauge. Your uni came with a plug? Mine didn't. In fact, I think it only came with the wire from the switch to the motor. I don't remember a power wire.


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## IC31 (Nov 16, 2012)

I would use an RV 30 amp extension cord then install a companion wall outlet along with a plug on the saw wire. This RV extension cord is 10 ga, very robust as far as insulation and fairly flexible to get it out of the way It would probably be way too long (usually 20 to 35 feet), but can alternatively be used for a generator or a 30 amp RV if you have one.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Dave has a great idea. But, if you're not going to be moving it often, why not just wire a new RV cord direct to the motor and forget the extension cord aspect.


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## Blackcloud (Mar 12, 2010)

That is the best choice dont use the extension you have to make the cord anyway just go straight to the motor and 10 gage wire is more than u probably need but you loose less current on a long run with heavier wire.


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

I have to vote with the others - a longer cord would be best, if it's a long term install where it's at. Again, each connection is a voltage drop potential.

The RV cord is fine, but you can buy the cord and plug at a big box or an electrical supply and would probably save money. The RV cord will have to have the male end chopped off and they can add a lot to cost.

Your current cord is probably only three conductor, but you can use a four conductor when you replace it, to add a frame ground. Just for reference, both my right and my left tilt Unisaws came with cords and plugs and, as noted, were three conductor.

As I mentioned, I could get by with a 12 gauge (20 amp. That is what comes on the 3hp saws and all it calls for, but ten gauge leaves room for a bigger motor or using the cord on other equipment.

_____________________________________
Comments from the Amazon pages:

From the manual: "A suitable circuit should not be less than AWG 12/3 wiring..." (for 3hp single phase). Such a circuit requires a 20 amp dbl. pole breaker.
Thomas O. answered on October 23, 2013

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220-240 volt and minimum 15 amp circuit. The plug is for a 15 amp 230 volt outlet so that's the minimum. This is for the 3HP motor.
Gauda answered on October 23, 2013

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The 3 Hp saw comes prewired with a 20 Amp 3 prong 220V plug. The saw will draw about 12.4 amps running. Use a 20 Amp 220V circuit with a minimum 12 gauge line wiring.
Mike answered on October 24, 2013

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I run it with 240v dedicated 20 amp double pole breaker. I also use a heavy duty, 10/3, 25 foot extension cord to reach the saw.
GlenT answered on October 24, 2013


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

That type saw isn't meant to be moved and I didn't intend to move mine again once I had it set up so I wired it direct to my panel using armored BX cable. Unless you have yours set up so that the cord will never be stepped on then I would recommend that it be done that way. You'll never have to replace it or worry about a short circuit from wires rubbing together.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Mine is overkill. 6 gauge wire to one of 4 240volt outlets in my garage (2 30 amp oulets and 2 50 amp outlets). The panel saw I have to a 50 amp and use the same connectors as my welders. For my welders, I have a 50 foot 2 gauge (angel hair) extension cord (600volt). (<-- I picked up the coil at a garage sale for $20!)

I have a 1300# plus saw but opted to run flexible cables that could be disconnected. Why you ask? It's not like I can drag that saw out to the end of the driveway to use, so it's not that... 

Because my saw is set in the middle of the garage. There is the working room required to do different things... It moves against a wall (right side) when I need the extra space. When I have to break down sheets, I need to move it from the wall so I can get a full sheet of movement. I havew to move things from behind it if I need full movement of the table.

The much bigger factor is that I have "other" very heavy things I have to get around my saw and I would be not able to get them safety over an armored cable.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

John I built an extension cord for my table saw and my jointer. Both work on 220 volt circuits. I ran my wiring into a metal square D box and then enclosed the Square D box in a wooden box made from plywood.

I would recommend the twist lock connectors. These connectors are more money but it will not pull out of the wall and last a long time. If you want I can send you a few photos of mine. If your interested just PM me and I can email the photos and explained how I did it.

I have an old post which I think I posted what I did. Have a look and if you have anymore questions just PM me. http://www.routerforums.com/workshop-showroom/14498-garage-overall-shop.html


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

It's been niggling at me since John originally posted his question...
_"...from a new 220 Volt dedicated outlet served by a 30 amp circuit breaker._"

The beginning and end of the discussion is the 30AMP breaker part. _Everything_ downstream _must_ be rated 30AMP. That's the Electrical Code.
The motor rating is a red herring.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

DaninVan said:


> It's been niggling at me since John originally posted his question...
> _"...from a new 220 Volt dedicated outlet served by a 30 amp circuit breaker._"
> 
> The beginning and end of the discussion is the 30AMP breaker part. _Everything_ downstream _must_ be rated 30AMP. That's the Electrical Code.
> The motor rating is a red herring.


Dan

Is niggling a word? lol. Here is the plug I used for my table saw and jointer. It is rated for 30 amps and meets the code. Mind you this is over kill since my tablesaw only draws 7.7 amps on 220 volts but never the less it meets the code.

Leviton 2621 30 Amp, 250 Volt, NEMA L6-30P, 2P, 3W, Locking Plug, Industrial Grade, Grounding - Black-White: Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

You betcha!
Niggling - Definition and More from the Free Merriam-Webster Dictionary


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

LOL there I learned a new word today... thanks not knowing this has been niggling me for years!


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## jbullockusanet (Nov 22, 2010)

Thanks for all of the feedback. Problem is resolved by my fellow woodworkers here on the forum. The mutual support we get here is great. Thx to everyone who responded.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Awesome good to hear.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Coincidentally, I just ran into a very similar issue at our place, over the weekend. I've had a problem with our Beam built in vacuum shutting off on its own on occasion.
I replaced the whole motor unit (the machine minus the piping) last year because the old one was doing the same thing. I found the manual and went through it looking for some answers. Buried in there is the electrical instructions...*the wiring must be 12/2 and the cct. breaker 20AMPS*...of course the machine comes complete with a *15AMP cord* and plug assembly!
When a new home is built, the Electrical Contractor is told to put in a cct. and receptacle for a b.i. vacuum, but isn't given any specs because at that point it's not likely that one has even been decided on. So what does he do? he wires in a dedicated 15 AMP cct. complete with a normal duplex receptacle. And when the vacuum arrives, the installer simply plugs it in, no questions asked.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Interesting Dan. I also have a Beam which I installed myself and I didn't see that in the manual either, but I did see the 15 amp plug and it worked fine for 15 years. However, last summer when I went home it would cut out after about 30 seconds. I think it might be a bad bearing but I'll have to remember to check that. They are supposed to be warrantied for life if I remember right, did you get free replacement?


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

I cannot imagine ever installing less than 12 gauge to an outlet. The only exception I've made is receptacles dedicated to lights and that are well marked. People shouldn't have to open an outlet or go to a fuse panel to determine its capacity. They should be able to presume them capable of twenty amps.

I see nothing wrong, in many instances, with running a 12 gauge extension cord in to a ten gauge circuit, a fourteen into a twelve gauge and so forth. Part of the reason for running a heavier gauge is to address the matter of the length of the run.

Several of my larger tools run relatively light cords. For example, my three horse Unisaw and my three horse dust collectors both run twelve gauge power cords, since they only draw about seven amps, after start up.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Kelly, I have no problem with that, in concept, except that the 20AMP wiring presumably has a 20 AMP breaker, Therefor it also requires a 20 amp receptacle, or a 20 AMP rated receptacle with a combination 15 and 20 AMP configuration. 
Neither of those are found in the bargain bin.
I absolutely agree with you about the shop wiring being 20 AMP per cct.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Kelly

You hit the nail on the head in regards to what the electrical draw is on startup. I have a General Contractor tablesaw that is about 12 years old now. It came wired for 110 volts but can be wired for 220 volts. When I took the motor housing off the diagram showed me exactly what wires to change. The electrical draw in ampres was cut in half when I re-wired the saw to 220volts. This translates into drawing only 7.5 amps now compared with the initial 15 amps when it was wired for 110 volts.

When I wired the shop I went with (2) 20 ampre circuits along both walls and I am sure glad I did. The only 15 amp circuit I have is for the lights. I have (2) circuits for 220 volt in the wall for the dust collection and jointer. I have another 30 amp circuit for a welder.

The Canadian Electrical Code is a minimum and you can always over build and it won't hurt ... well just the pocket book maybe!

The only problem in not matching the wiring to the circuit breaker is if the load does increase to the full 20 ampres and you have just 14 gauge wiring this produces a chance of over heating the wire and thus causing a fire. I am not an electrician but I think that is the reason. It only makes sense right?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

TRN_Diesel said:


> The only problem in not matching the wiring to the circuit breaker is if the load does increase to the full 20 ampres and you have just 14 gauge wiring this produces a chance of over heating the wire and thus causing a fire. I am not an electrician but I think that is the reason. It only makes sense right?


That is correct Dan. I'm not an electrician either but I've done all my own for the last 40 years. In BC, and I think Alberta is the same, you are allowed to take out a permit to do your own wiring as long as you do the work yourself and it gets inspected after, usually more diligently than a licensed electrician gets inspected. Dan in Van is correct that if it is to meet code, a 20 amp breaker must use 12 gauge wire and must be connected to a special receptacle. The standard duplex plug that you pick up at the hardware store for a buck cannot be used. Leviton | 20 Amp Duplex Receptacle, Ivory | Home Depot Canada


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

However, if it were that we had to match power cords to permanent wiring, we'd have to toss every one of our power supplies for printers, phones, radio and television power supply cords and so forth. MORE IMPORTANT, our shops would be affected. We'd have to change power cords on drills, routers. . . .


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

TRN, after reading you post more carefully, it's obvious you were talking about the wiring in the walls, rather than the things plugged into them. On that, you are dead on.

________________
The only problem in not matching the wiring to the circuit breaker is if the load does increase to the full 20 ampres and you have just 14 gauge wiring this produces a chance of over heating the wire and thus causing a fire. I am not an electrician but I think that is the reason. It only makes sense right?[/QUOTE]




TRN_Diesel said:


> Kelly
> 
> You hit the nail on the head in regards to what the electrical draw is on startup. I have a General Contractor tablesaw that is about 12 years old now. It came wired for 110 volts but can be wired for 220 volts. When I took the motor housing off the diagram showed me exactly what wires to change. The electrical draw in ampres was cut in half when I re-wired the saw to 220volts. This translates into drawing only 7.5 amps now compared with the initial 15 amps when it was wired for 110 volts.
> 
> ...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Keyyy; online discussions suggest that the Canadian Electrical Code is more rigid on this application than the US (ie you guys get a little more leeway in the interpretation.
The simple fact is that virtually all lighting and receptacle wiring up here is done with #14 and the breakers are 15AMP. Why, you ask? Because it's way cheaper. 
NMD-90 Electrical Wire | RONA (that's approx. 250+')
Wire - Construction Wire | RONA
On top of the cable, there's the issue of how many wires are allowed in an outlet box, and the cost of 20Amp rated receptacles. Just not going to happen in residential construction; they're always looking for ways to reduce costs, not make it _more_ expensive. All of the above doesn't mean that 20Amp ccts. wouldn't be a good idea. That's how I wired my own shop. As I've mentioned in the past, a 15 Amp breaker won't hold my compressor if I'm using it for high demand applications.

12 outets (mixed lts. and plugs) allowed per 15Amp cct.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

My apologies, Kelly...didn't notice the spelling! My _very_ bad!!


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

Been called worse and, what the heck, when I was in law, I used an alias much of the time.

Was out in the shop and inspected the tag on the motor of the 3 hp Jet collector I bought last month. It says 25 AMPS!!! The 3 horse Unisaw runs at 7. Both motors are the same size. As such, it appears there is a huge winding quality difference. 

Now I remember why I run 10 gauge to my 220 circuits.


I presume the rigid codes still allow heavier wire than required. Electrical laws of nature don't change. As such, I'd spend the extra for twelve to outlets because, sooner or later, someone is going to run a heater, or a microwave and a toaster, or..............



DaninVan said:


> My apologies, Kelly...didn't notice the spelling! My _very_ bad!!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

!..._"someone is going to run a heater, or a microwave and a toaster..."_
You have a _very_ well equipped shop, Kelly!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

> You have a very well equipped shop, Kelly!


I have heard that there are even some with TV, fridge and lounge chairs......ROTFL


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Dejure said:


> I presume the rigid codes still allow heavier wire than required. Electrical laws of nature don't change. As such, I'd spend the extra for twelve to outlets because, sooner or later, someone is going to run a heater, or a microwave and a toaster, or..............


It is always allowable to go heavier or more. Our code says one outlet every 12 feet of wall space in a house. I often go 6 feet instead. I would rather put in more outlets than to have to run extension cords later. If the wire run is more than 75 feet it is recommended to go up a wire size so 12 gauge would be the right thing to use but, as I pointed out already, it would still be used with a 15 amp breaker here or we have to use a special plug receptacle.

I did have an inspector tell me once that if you are running 12 gauge wire that it is not meant to be wrapped around the small screws on the standard duplex receptacle and that you should connect 14 gauge wire to the 12 gauge to hook the receptacle up.


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

What? Every shop doesn't have a toaster and a biscuit cooker, uh, microwave?



DaninVan said:


> !..._"someone is going to run a heater, or a microwave and a toaster..."_
> You have a _very_ well equipped shop, Kelly!


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

The whole 14 gauge to outlets flabbergasts me. 

Many of my 20 amp duplex outlets and my singles for 10 use screw wrap methods and both use the same size screws. The hole on the business end of wire cutters makes quick work of a bend. It preferred, there are also the round nose bending pliers. I cannot think of a reason some engineer would poo poo that kind of connection.

I often run into difficulty finding 20 amp outlets. I'd rather spend a few bucks more for that, and the better outlets that have more capacity for leads. I do confess, the ones that have eight holes for wires are straight in, tighten by screw and are much easier to use.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> It is always allowable to go heavier or more. Our code says one outlet every 12 feet of wall space in a house. I often go 6 feet instead. I would rather put in more outlets than to have to run extension cords later. If the wire run is more than 75 feet it is recommended to go up a wire size so 12 gauge would be the right thing to use but, as I pointed out already, it would still be used with a 15 amp breaker here or we have to use a special plug receptacle.
> 
> I did have an inspector tell me once that if you are running 12 gauge wire that it is not meant to be wrapped around the small screws on the standard duplex receptacle and that you should connect 14 gauge wire to the 12 gauge to hook the receptacle up.


I went every 36" along the shop and ending up using every outlet. Over my workbench/assembly area I installed a four-plex outlet along with the table saw. These overheard power outlets are great when routing, saves on the cord getting wrapped around things. I also put in a air connection using black pipe and a quick connect connector, very handy.

But back to the topic of electrical wiring, seems strange and I do not understand how they want you to run a certain size wire in the wall to an appliance however at the machine the wire does not match, very hypocritical if you ask me. The clothes dryer matches this criteria so why doesn't the machinery do the same?


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## jbullockusanet (Nov 22, 2010)

Thanks for all of the feedback. The saw is currently located toward the front of my 2 car garage. Due to limited space I may have to relocate the saw as my workshop evolves. I would strongly prefer to permanently locate the saw in one position, but due to space and access constraints, this is not currently possible. My decision to locate the saw next to the garage entrance served by a section garage door is based on input and observation of numerous small garage shops. I do have the unit mounted on a mobile Delta base. Since I have a 50 inch side table with a Biesmeyer fence, the saw can be moved toward my driveway offering more space to for the handling of large sheets of wood and improved lighting.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

John

For many of us mobility is crucial to running a small shop. When I first started in my garage I went out and bought a mobile base for my table saw so I could move it out of the way. Then as time passed and I fulfilled my tool addiction it became apparent I could not park the car in the garage any more so I just parked the table saw in the middle of the garage.:happy:

My big issue was getting power to the saw once I converted it to 220 Volts. I had a 30 amp 220 circuit which I used to run an extension cord with a power outlet box. Does this meet the code probably not but like I said the wiring going into the saw does not meet the same size gauge the extension cord has to be. I understand voltage drop comes into play and hence the reason for the large gauge wire to avoid the voltage drop over long runs. I compare this rational to high volume hose (5") supplying my pumper if I am using a master stream appliances flowing water in excess of 4,000 litre per minute. A smaller sized hose will not supply the volume of water needed to supply the nozzle rated at 4,000 LPM just like a welder pulling 30 amps requires 10 gauge wire. In my case I have a saw pulling only 7.5 amps and hence I think it is ok to have the wire being smaller running into the saw as well as the plug. The plug is rated for 20 amps so I am well within the amperage rating for the specific application I am using it. 

You will note I also installed a 110 volt outlet which is fed from the 220 outlet. I ran 4 wire with a white neutral wire which ran directly into the 110 volt box. I simply extended by big tailing one of the 110 volt hot wires over to the 110 volt to supply the 110 volt power. This configuration gives me the luxury of having two circuits in one. I have two cords like this to feed my jointer and the table saw. In the future when I build my next shop I will wire dedicated circuits for each machine but for now this is what I ended up doing.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Dejure said:


> I do confess, the ones that have eight holes for wires are straight in, tighten by screw and are much easier to use.


We aren't allowed to use those holes, at least not in BC. Also, if the power continues on to another outlet we have to attach a pigtail to the wires to connect to the receptacle. Only when the wire terminates at the outlet can we make a direct connection to the outlet. I've seen quite a few cases where the receptacle was used to carry the power forward to the next outlet in Alberta but I don't know that it was done legally as I'm not familiar with the code here.

The explanation that was given me by a wiring inspector is that wires that are twisted together and wire-nutted are much less likely to break than ones that are attached at the receptacle screws. That way a broken wire will only affect the plugin where the break is. I do agree with him that I've seen a few broken wires at the receptacle and I'm not sure if I've ever seen one break anywhere else in the box.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Charles; the reason originally given was that, knowing full well that electricians often do re-wiring 'hot', removing a device from the cct. would suddenly plunge the room into darkness, leaving said electrician holding a hot wire in the dark. But yeh, I agree with what you said re broken wires at the built-in connector.
Also, how do you use it for doing a split to two or more additional runs? 
I've always done it the Marrette way with pigtails. If my drywallguys want a specific plug installed or removed, for boarding and taping, it's really quickly done...hot.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

TRN_Diesel said:


> But back to the topic of electrical wiring, seems strange and I do not understand how they want you to run a certain size wire in the wall to an appliance however at the machine the wire does not match, very hypocritical if you ask me. The clothes dryer matches this criteria so why doesn't the machinery do the same?


I've always wondered that too. The wiring to the heating element in a dryer might be 12 gauge but we have to run 10 gauge to it. I wanted to run some power to a cabin once, 60 amps max but about a 500' run. It was coming off a farm service pole so it didn't require inspection at the time but I went in and asked a wiring inspector what size triplex I should use and he said at least #4 and if I wanted to be sure #2. I went with #4. When I went to clamp it to the wire coming out of the farm service with some servits I looked up to make sure I was far enough away from the main wires and they were the same size as the ones in my hand and they were feeding a 200 amp service from as far away as I was going. The farm service had to have 3/0 gauge in copper, several times the size of the aluminum line.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

The voltage steps down in a dryer to supply each element with 110 volts I think and hence the reason it is 12 gauage. The wire is not carrying the full load but I think that is why most "Sparkies" end up with curly hair...... or maybe not! :jester:


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## vzbingo (Mar 1, 2012)

My understanding is that it's a matter of distance covered by the gauge of wire. You'll note that the power cable coming from the device (saw) is only about 6' long and probably 12 ga. when the circuit calls for 10 ga. that's because the wire over that short distance won't have enough resistance to cause it to overheat. The longer run could, which is why you don't use that 16 ga. extension cord for the 10 amp blower in the yard, when it should be a 12 ga. Plus you stand more of a chance of burning out the motor because of the low voltage.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Charles; re the Al conductors in triplex. I'm pretty sure it's because it's surrounded by air and therefor heat dissipates very quickly, ie no heat buildup, unlike Loomex and other insulated cables. But yeh, makes one wonder eh?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

True Dan, you can't run triplex inside a conduit for that reason but in one case their power was coming into a 200 amp pole service using #4 triplex and I was connecting to copper after only going through a meter base and disconnect and I was told to use #4 triplex for a 60 amp load of equal distance.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

?! Say that again? 
Did you mean that the triplex ran down inside your 2" service mast, to the meter base? 
I think #4 triplex is simply the lightest gauge that anyone uses anymore, the stuff is so cheap. I don't even remember the last time I saw any #6. 
http://www.prioritywire.com/specs/Triplex Service Drop.pdf

What I'm _really_ surprised at is the #4 being used for the 200A drop!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

#4- 3 cond triplex...$4.76 Metre list price? Does that sound right?
https://west.westburne.ca/triplex/westburne-welding-cable/ns75-4-3-trip/product/NS754%2F3 Maybe the wrong product; no photo at the link.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> ?! Say that again?
> Did you mean that the triplex ran down inside your 2" service mast, to the meter base?
> I think #4 triplex is simply the lightest gauge that anyone uses anymore, the stuff is so cheap. I don't even remember the last time I saw any #6.
> http://www.prioritywire.com/specs/Triplex Service Drop.pdf
> ...


BC Hydro used #4 from the neighbors pole where the transformer was to go to the 200 amp pole service we had where they connected to 3/0 copper to go to the meter and the disconnect and out other conduit. I connected into the other drip loop with servits for my #4 that I was feeding to a 60 amp panel. 

It could be close to $5 a metre now. This was 35 years ago or more so I don't remember anymore. I've seen #s 6 and 8 used to go to a shed or garage.


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

Are you talking about the press in, or the ones that push in, like your breaker panel, then tighten in place by way of turning a screw?




Cherryville Chuck said:


> We aren't allowed to use those holes, at least not in BC. Also, if the power continues on to another outlet we have to attach a pigtail to the wires to connect to the receptacle. Only when the wire terminates at the outlet can we make a direct connection to the outlet. I've seen quite a few cases where the receptacle was used to carry the power forward to the next outlet in Alberta but I don't know that it was done legally as I'm not familiar with the code here.
> 
> The explanation that was given me by a wiring inspector is that wires that are twisted together and wire-nutted are much less likely to break than ones that are attached at the receptacle screws. That way a broken wire will only affect the plugin where the break is. I do agree with him that I've seen a few broken wires at the receptacle and I'm not sure if I've ever seen one break anywhere else in the box.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Dejure said:


> Are you talking about the press in, or the ones that push in, like your breaker panel, then tighten in place by way of turning a screw?


I meant the ones where you strip about 1/2" of wire and shove it in the hole in the back of the receptacle with just a friction grip and a pawl to keep it from backing out. Did I misunderstand what you said?


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

The ones I'm talking about still require you to tighten a screw to hold the wire in place. Rather than loop the wire around the screw, it just pushes straight in, like many of the newer quality plugs, and a screw pulls a plate against the wire, trapping it between two plates. 

Each screw tightens the clamp on up to two wires. There are two neutral screws and two hot wire screws so you can use it to junction and feed up to eight wires (4 cables).

You still only have one ground, so it has to be "pig tailed" by way of a wire nut.




Cherryville Chuck said:


> I meant the ones where you strip about 1/2" of wire and shove it in the hole in the back of the receptacle with just a friction grip and a pawl to keep it from backing out. Did I misunderstand what you said?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Dejure said:


> The ones I'm talking about still require you to tighten a screw to hold the wire in place. Rather than loop the wire around the screw, it just pushes straight in, like many of the newer quality plugs, and a screw pulls a plate against the wire, trapping it between two plates.
> 
> Each screw tightens the clamp on up to two wires. There are two neutral screws and two hot wire screws so you can use it to junction and feed up to eight wires (4 cables).
> 
> You still only have one ground, so it has to be "pig tailed" by way of a wire nut.


If we have those, they are new. I've never wired to a screw on a receptacle that didn't require the wire to be wrapped around the screw. My favorites are the ones with a hole to stick the end of the wire in so that you can bend it around the screw without using pliers. Using the plugin as a junction is not allowed in BC at least. I can't speak for the other provinces.


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

Just curious. Do you mean you have to pig tail every outlet off the main cable, since I suspect it's common practice there to jump a wire from the same circuit to several outlets.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Dejure said:


> Just curious. Do you mean you have to pig tail every outlet off the main cable, since I suspect it's common practice there to jump a wire from the same circuit to several outlets.


Yes, at least in BC. If you were running a lead into a gang box with multiple switches for example, you would need a pigtail for each one. I do take a shortcut with grounding wires at outlets. I'm not 100% sure how it stacks up against the code but I've never been called on it yet. I usually take all but one of the grounding wires and cut them fairly short and then give the whole works a few twists and then I use a crimp sleeve to hold the twists together and run the long wire to the grounding screw on the receptacle. The crimp sleeve takes up less room than a wire nut.


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## Hermansclork892 (Aug 9, 2014)

Wire a new RV cord direct to the motor


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*Twisted*

Hey, Kelly; just to clarify what Charles is saying. The line and neutral have to be _continuous_...not unbroken but continuous. In other words you can join all parts of the same cct. with wire connectors but you can't run it _through_ a wiring device (receptacle) using it as part of the line. That extra set of screws can only be used to wire into, as in a split receptacle, but not _out of_ onto the next device.*
This way any device can be removed without disrupting the cct.
-solid black line is hot
-dotted line is neutral
-ground not shown, but same principle applies.

*GFCI receptacles are a slightly different story...you need to follow the wiring diagram included with the device.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Sorry, it just occurred to me that I didn't cover the situation where the device is at the end of a run... only two wires & ground into the box.
The wires simply go onto the terminal screws; nothing to pigtail, unless the ground needs to be extended after going to the box's ground screw first.
(That's what happens when you cut the cable too short forgetting that you need some extra length for the grounding!  )


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Dejure said:


> Just curious. Do you mean you have to pig tail every outlet off the main cable, since I suspect it's common practice there to jump a wire from the same circuit to several outlets.


Sorry if I'm miss reading this . But in BC you can have up to 12 circuits on one breaker at 120 V whether it's 15-20 amp . Of course you have to use 12gauge for a 20amp circuit.

But if there 220 volt outlets they must all be independent lines from the breaker panel , no series runs .

Getting back to the original post , if I had to extend a cord from my table saw I wouldn't , instead I'd replace it with a new one right from where the wires are connected on the saw.
My GI TS did not come with and cord , just an external box which would only allow for a 12 gauge 2 wire cord so that's what I did , 20 feet long but the manual says I could have gone up to 100' with 12 gauge (personally I would go with 10 gauge if I was going that far ) . 
Saw draws 11.7 amps at 220.
North America runs at 120 volts , so I'm sure my 240 plug with 2-20 amp breakers is sufficient from the panel , and my 20' long 12 gauge cord is in spec.


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