# template pattern tracing



## Grind60 (Sep 12, 2008)

I am using a wood template and a template guide to trace a pattern of a goose. I am having problems following the template especially on curves. Do you have any tips or suggestions? Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Grind60

With a hand held router or on the router table ?

I just made 15 parts for a dovetail jig today and I used the router table it gives me more control ,the parts are Walnut and a real pain to make,,,Walnut likes to chip out on the ends so I used a 1/4" trim bit at high speed to get the job.

see below

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Grind60 said:


> I am using a wood template and a template guide to trace a pattern of a goose. I am having problems following the template especially on curves. Do you have any tips or suggestions? Thanks


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I must congratulate you Bj. on an excellent job, I doubt that I could have done any better however, just to show that I too can have a keen eye at times, I must point out a few minor problems that I know a little filler will fix.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Grind60, from the sparse details it just isn't possible to give you a satisfactory answer. Are you, as Bj asked, using the router hand held or in a table, also are you using male or female templates? A photograph with your answers will guarantee that your problem will be resolved. Members are on this forum to learn, to teach and to have an enjoyable experience.


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## Grind60 (Sep 12, 2008)

Thanks, Harry I am using a hand held router with a male template. I place the male template on a desired piece of wood with carpet tape and use a hand held router with a template guide attached to trace a pattern.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Thanks 

I knew you would see them but it's not a big deal, the pocket end of the slot in the finger is the key, the other part is just a guide the bit into place/pocket more or less, if you look real hard you will see a small offset of the pointed end of the finger about a 1" long,that's the guider or to say the line up the bit into the pocket...

But it could be if I used 1 1/4" thick stock but most of the time it will be 3/4" thick stock or less most of the time.. 

I found that out on the other fingers I made for the Fac.made jig...that is only 12" long but it can only do 10" wide stock and the new jig can do 18" wide stock..

http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/6989-katie-jr-dovetail-jig.html

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harrysin said:


> I must congratulate you Bj. on an excellent job, I doubt that I could have done any better however, just to show that I too can have a keen eye at times, I must point out a few minor problems that I know a little filler will fix.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

There are few people who advocate the use of template guides more than me, however, for your particular job I would suggest that you pre cut the shape with a jig saw or by whatever means you have,leaving between 1/8" and 1/4" waste. Attach the template BENEATH the new material and with a straight bearing cutter move the router around the material, keeping reasonable pressure against the pattern, too much pressure will leave a line.
If there is insufficient support for the router, some form of support must be used, if you aren't sure what I mean, or if there is any part of my description that your not sure of, just ask and on Monday I shall try to make a mock-up to illustrate the procedure.
Just keep the questions coming and you will become proficient in the use of the router in next to no time.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

That's what I did,,,for the fingers,I drilled a hole in the pockets and then used the band saw and then a router trim bit to clean up the job...then the sanding drum sander to get the smooth clean finish...

The hard part for me was making 15 all the same and right on the button.
Walnut is nasty. it's hard and likes to snap out and chip out on the end grain ... 


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harrysin said:


> There are few people who advocate the use of template guides more than me, however, for your particular job I would suggest that you pre cut the shape with a jig saw or by whatever means you have,leaving between 1/8" and 1/4" waste. Attach the template BENEATH the new material and with a straight bearing cutter move the router around the material, keeping reasonable pressure against the pattern, too much pressure will leave a line.
> If there is insufficient support for the router, some form of support must be used, if you aren't sure what I mean, or if there is any part of my description that your not sure of, just ask and on Monday I shall try to make a mock-up to illustrate the procedure.
> Just keep the questions coming and you will become proficient in the use of the router in next to no time.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"Walnut is nasty"

I can't help asking Bj., but why DID you use Walnut?

This is getting scary, we keep agreeing!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Because I had it in stock and it was 1/2" thick  and I do like the look of Walnut..and I do like the challenge sometimes...




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harrysin said:


> "Walnut is nasty"
> 
> I can't help asking Bj., but why DID you use Walnut?
> 
> This is getting scary, we keep agreeing!


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

If Walnut is nasty, what wood would you suggest? 

I fully understand, even thrive on challenges myself. Wanting, even seeking challenges is one contributing factor to my slow progress in my own projects.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I would suggest Hard Maple but that's just me.. 

If you got this one from the factory ( http://www.katiejig.com/ ) it would be over 400.oo dollars but you can also make one with just one of the fingers for a template...they sell them for 18.oo ea..
the Alum rail you can get off ebay for 8.00 dollars each..



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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

You have a great deal of patience and ability Bob and these attributes plus other members encouragement is what is currently driving me whilst I'm still, after best part of six months, suffering the pain from Shingles.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

*Important additional information*



harrysin said:


> There are few people who advocate the use of template guides more than me, however, for your particular job I would suggest that you pre cut the shape with a jig saw or by whatever means you have,leaving between 1/8" and 1/4" waste. Attach the template BENEATH the new material and with a straight bearing cutter move the router around the material, keeping reasonable pressure against the pattern, too much pressure will leave a line.
> If there is insufficient support for the router, some form of support must be used, if you aren't sure what I mean, or if there is any part of my description that your not sure of, just ask and on Monday I shall try to make a mock-up to illustrate the procedure.
> Just keep the questions coming and you will become proficient in the use of the router in next to no time.


I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT IT'S IMPORTANT THAT YOU ROUT IN AN ANTI-CLOCKWISE DIRECTION the router is only moved clockwise for INTERNAL work.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I think you should note hand held routers are not the same as router tables,,, it's not the same 

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harrysin said:


> I FORGOT TO MENTION THAT IT'S IMPORTANT THAT YOU ROUT IN AN ANTI-CLOCKWISE DIRECTION the router is only moved clockwise for INTERNAL work.


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Thanks. So far my woodworking has been limited to big box store pine or whatever passes for white wood. I am starting to branch out and look for other woods to use.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Harry
> 
> I think you should note hand held routers are not the same as router tables,,, it's not the same
> 
> =======


I, more than most am aware of this Bj.and I'm not just referring to the difference in weight, just what it is you think I have got wrong?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

Once you flip the router upside down and it's mounted to a router table it's not the same...

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harrysin said:


> I, more than most am aware of this Bj.and I'm not just referring to the difference in weight, just what it is you think I have got wrong?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob, if you make a round table and rout a roundover around the edge, you walk around the table in an ANTI-CLOCKWISE direction. On the other hand, if you have cut out a circle and you want to rout a roundover, you would move the router in a CLOCKWISE direction.
If you stand on your head in front of your router table, you'll see that it's exactly the same!
Mike posted a clever way to remember this, it's post #5 under "router bit too long"

The fact that you've been routing successfully for many years tells me that you certainly know which way to push a router, so I'm not really clear what point you're trying to make Bob.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Harry

The only point I'm trying to make is on the router table you don't move the router you move the stock into the router bit,in a climb cut,pulling the bit into the stock.. .. 

Because the bit is always spinning/turning ANTI-CLOCKWISE direction..

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harrysin said:


> Bob, if you make a round table and rout a roundover around the edge, you walk around the table in an ANTI-CLOCKWISE direction. On the other hand, if you have cut out a circle and you want to rout a roundover, you would move the router in a CLOCKWISE direction.
> If you stand on your head in front of your router table, you'll see that it's exactly the same!
> Mike posted a clever way to remember this, it's post #5 under "router bit too long"
> 
> The fact that you've been routing successfully for many years tells me that you certainly know which way to push a router, so I'm not really clear what point you're trying to make Bob.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> HI Harry
> 
> The only point I'm trying to make is on the router table you don't move the router you move the stock into the router bit,in a climb cut,pulling the bit into the stock.. ..
> 
> ...


Bob, a FINAL word on this matter, IT DOESN'T MATTER IF THE ROUTER IS HAND HELD OR IN THE TABLE, THE CUTTER AND WOOD MEET IN EXACTLY THE SAME DIRECTION, THE FEED IS INTO THE CUTTER, going in the opposite direction will drag the wood through and is very dangerous.

There is a situation where moving the router in the wrong direction can be advantageous providing the router is being held firmly and that is when rounding from end grain to avoid breakout.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I'm not to sure if this is too safe 

I just got your blood presser up by 20 points ,,,  

Harry you old fart have a good day MATE 

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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Thanks for that Bob, I had my blood pressure tablets after my breakfast fortunately. Do me one favour Bob, go in and edit you're last post and add the missing "T".

I'm sure it won't be too long till we find another topic to play ping pong with!


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## Hagie (Nov 22, 2008)

*Looking for a Template I Saw on DIY*

Not too long ago I saw a template used with a plunge router and a V bit. It was used to cut nice scroll designs in a door panel.

I can't find reference to it on the DIYNetwork site.

Is anybody familiar with this kind of template?

Thanks,

Pat


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Pat

This maybe what your talking about 
see link below

http://www.routerforums.com/cnc-routing/5870-3d-router-carving.html

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Hagie said:


> Not too long ago I saw a template used with a plunge router and a V bit. It was used to cut nice scroll designs in a door panel.
> 
> I can't find reference to it on the DIYNetwork site.
> 
> ...


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