# Planning to build a RT--save a newby from himself



## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

I'm thinking through options for a shop-built RT. I've never owned a router before, and could use some advice and/or critique of my thinking.

I expect to use it for projects smaller than furniture, if that helps. Also I want to put a priority on dust control.

For the router I'm looking at the 12 A units. I started considering kits with the following routers:

DeWalt 618
Bosch 1617
PC 892

I scratched the DeWalt since it has no height adjustment from the table top. I want to simplify this first table, and not having to buy a lift seems like an advantage. With the other 2, the PC costs a bit more, and I'm wondering if its worth the difference. Any handheld routing I do for now will be done using the same router.

All table styles seem to have a dust port on the fence, but do I understand correctly that enclosing the router in a box and putting a dust port there also will improve dust control? If so, is it a big difference? It seems like the box idea would dictate a floor standing design. I've seen pictures of Norm's design, and I think its too big for my space. A smaller floor standing design could be just the right size.

A bench-top table strikes me as too high. Mounted to a contractor saw is perhaps what I will do if I don't use the dust control box idea. Having selected a table style, I'll be looking for plans, so if you know of plans that you would recommend, I would appreciate knowing how to find a copy (bought or free, doesn't really matter).

I will certainly appreciate all input generated by this query.

-Roger


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

rogimoto said:


> I'm thinking through options for a shop-built RT. I've never owned a router before, and could use some advice and/or critique of my thinking.
> 
> I expect to use it for projects smaller than furniture, if that helps. Also I want to put a priority on dust control.
> 
> ...


Hi Roger - Welcome to the forum
Sounds like you have already put a lot of thought into this. Any of those routers will work fine for you. I have a small shop in my basement and I have the NYY style table on wheels. It moves around a lot but it's worth it to me to have it readily availabe rather than being drug out and assembled as my original bench top table required. Building it into your table saw wing could be a viable solution for you. Check the sticky, "Wanted - pictures of your router table", at the top of this forum for a ton of inspiration


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## tbfoto (Sep 4, 2009)

Roger, I too am a newbie and looking for plans like your self so I will be watching this thread closely.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

A dust port on your fence is all you need. I built a split fence and boxed in the area behind and above the bit opening and drilled a hole in the back for my 1 1/4" vac hose nozzle. I catch about 95% of all the dust made. A well designed box may equal that but is unlikely to surpass it and a poorly designed one can do much worse as well as make your router run hot. Most of the dust you make will be above the table. No enclosure makes running cords and popping the router out for bit changes much easier. No box also means you can make a bench top table which takes up a lot less space.
I also advocate putting the router to one side of the table instead of the middle. If you are working with narrow pieces you can put the fence on the wide side which keeps your work close and easy to reach. If you have wide pieces you can put the fence on the narrow side leaving more table for support. Just one opinion out of many.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Read the sticky threads at the top of each section. They are packed with good information. Instructions for building the table top are there. Roger, the Router Workshop table is no longer available but you can build it yourself; Plans are $4.00.


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

jschaben said:


> Hi Roger - Welcome to the forum
> Sounds like you have already put a lot of thought into this. Any of those routers will work fine for you. I have a small shop in my basement and I have the NYY style table on wheels. It moves around a lot but it's worth it to me to have it readily availabe rather than being drug out and assembled as my original bench top table required. Building it into your table saw wing could be a viable solution for you. Check the sticky, "Wanted - pictures of your router table", at the top of this forum for a ton of inspiration


John,

Thanks for you comments. I'll take a closer look at that design and its dimensions. It's hard to go wrong with Norm, I'm sure.

Do you mean it moves around a lot as in you relocate it often, or as in it wobbles when you use it? Are the wheels part of the original design, or was that a modification?

Thanks,
Roger


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

Mike said:


> Read the sticky threads at the top of each section. They are packed with good information. Instructions for building the table top are there. Roger, the Router Workshop table is no longer available but you can build it yourself; Plans are $4.00.


Thanks Mike. OT: I got a lot from your sticky about a minimalist table design. I look forward to the companion thread about a fence to go with it!

I do like the looks of the RW table. On Oakpark's website, it looks like they are closing out a lot of parts they sell for that table. Do you think it makes more sense to buy those things while I can or just get them somewhere else to begin with? I'm referring to the fence, plate, starting pins, etc.

-Roger


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> A dust port on your fence is all you need. I built a split fence and boxed in the area behind and above the bit opening and drilled a hole in the back for my 1 1/4" vac hose nozzle. I catch about 95% of all the dust made. A well designed box may equal that but is unlikely to surpass it and a poorly designed one can do much worse as well as make your router run hot. Most of the dust you make will be above the table. No enclosure makes running cords and popping the router out for bit changes much easier. No box also means you can make a bench top table which takes up a lot less space.
> I also advocate putting the router to one side of the table instead of the middle. If you are working with narrow pieces you can put the fence on the wide side which keeps your work close and easy to reach. If you have wide pieces you can put the fence on the narrow side leaving more table for support. Just one opinion out of many.


Thanks Charles,

Knowing this gives me a lot more flexibility in choosing a table style.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Roger


Just a butt in post on my part 

If you buy the plates from OP get both of them ,the small and the big hole one, once you cut the hole out for the plate in your table top you are stuck with it and the OP is the only one that will fit that hole.

And it's best to have two routers to use the router table unless you don't mind switching base plate all the time, the small hole one can only take on a 1 1/4" OD bit safe and the big hole one can only take on 2 1/2" OD bit the norm.

So to say think down the road b/4 you get that setup and made the OP table system.it's setup as proprietary system for the most part.

Hope this helps a little bit with your quest.

I should post a picture or two of the rework I had to do to the plate to get it work on my table but I think you get it without any pictures..

==




rogimoto said:


> Thanks Mike. OT: I got a lot from your sticky about a minimalist table design. I look forward to the companion thread about a fence to go with it!
> 
> I do like the looks of the RW table. On Oakpark's website, it looks like they are closing out a lot of parts they sell for that table. Do you think it makes more sense to buy those things while I can or just get them somewhere else to begin with? I'm referring to the fence, plate, starting pins, etc.
> 
> -Roger


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

Bob,

Thanks for butting in. I'm looking for any and all feedback from you experienced guys and gals.

The info about the plate is definitely valuable. If most of their stuff is proprietary, and the plate is one of them, that will cause me to go elsewhere.

I may still go with their design for the cabinets, and put a custom top on it.


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

Bob,
I meant to mention, I can see needing more than one router. I'm thinking the kits are one step in that direction, but free hand routing with a plunge router...I don't know how well that works. So, I may very well buy an extra fixed-base or D-handle base and move the motor back and forth.


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## Hsobel (Jan 25, 2012)

Hi Bob:
I built my first router table on the cheap as I didn't want to spend a lot before I knew how much I was going to use it. I am now completing my second table twenty years after the first one. This time I went all the way. I am using the Bosch 1617 and like it very much. They have an optional base made specifically for table use and it allows for above the table adjustment which you will find is a necessity. I also went for the Incra table cabinet and top setup but you could make the base out of dimensional lumber to save money and you could use melamine covered MDF, available at the blue or orange store for the top it works well and is very reasonably priced. I like the incra table frame kit as you can build it bare at first and then enclose it later by slipping 1/2 inch wood into the grooves in the frame it ends up as a really nice step and the frame kit is good value. You likely will want to make the top large, rectangular, and offset the plate to your offhand side(left side for righties) to give you maximum room from plate to fence. DO NOT scrimp on the plate. Buy a metal one as thick as you can find so that the weight of the router doesn't warp the plate. Incra's plates have a magnetic insert system which is really nice and you get three sizes with the plate and can buy eleven other sizes later if you need them. This plate and the Bosch table mount do the job of a router lift at about two to three hundred dollars less. The rest is up to you. Forget plans. Sit down and design it yourself and you will end up with what you want and not someone else's ideas. Including the router, you will need to spend at minimum $400.00 but can easily go as high as $2000.00 if you want and can afford it. Don't forget to include dust removal in your design. Feel free to PM me if you have questions r need advice. I can send you photos of my setup but can't post them until I get to ten messages. Sorry :-(.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

rogimoto said:


> John,
> 
> Thanks for you comments. I'll take a closer look at that design and its dimensions. It's hard to go wrong with Norm, I'm sure.
> 
> ...


Hi Roger - It moves around a lot because I need to move it to use the table saw, move the table saw to use the miter saw, move both to use the router table... etc.. ad nauseum.. still fun though I bought a NYW wanna be table and rebuilt most of it. Wheels were included but I upgraded the ones it came with to 3" swivels with the front two locking both wheel and swivel. When the wheels are locked the table is very steady.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Thanks Harold

I have 6 router tables now so I don't think I need any more at this time but thanks for the offer to help I also have the small Incra setup and about 63 routers so to say I'm set.
can't have to many routers 

==



Hsobel said:


> Hi Bob:
> I built my first router table on the cheap as I didn't want to spend a lot before I knew how much I was going to use it. I am now completing my second table twenty years after the first one. This time I went all the way. I am using the Bosch 1617 and like it very much. They have an optional base made specifically for table use and it allows for above the table adjustment which you will find is a necessity. I also went for the Incra table cabinet and top setup but you could make the base out of dimensional lumber to save money and you could use melamine covered MDF, available at the blue or orange store for the top it works well and is very reasonably priced. I like the incra table frame kit as you can build it bare at first and then enclose it later by slipping 1/2 inch wood into the grooves in the frame it ends up as a really nice step and the frame kit is good value. You likely will want to make the top large, rectangular, and offset the plate to your offhand side(left side for righties) to give you maximum room from plate to fence. DO NOT scrimp on the plate. Buy a metal one as thick as you can find so that the weight of the router doesn't warp the plate. Incra's plates have a magnetic insert system which is really nice and you get three sizes with the plate and can buy eleven other sizes later if you need them. This plate and the Bosch table mount do the job of a router lift at about two to three hundred dollars less. The rest is up to you. Forget plans. Sit down and design it yourself and you will end up with what you want and not someone else's ideas. Including the router, you will need to spend at minimum $400.00 but can easily go as high as $2000.00 if you want and can afford it. Don't forget to include dust removal in your design. Feel free to PM me if you have questions r need advice. I can send you photos of my setup but can't post them until I get to ten messages. Sorry :-(.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Roger, the Oak Park plates are no longer available. The good news is it is simple to use a different sized mounting plate in this table design. The economy table top used a HF mounting plate which is just a hair smaller than the Grizzly plate. In the photos below you will see a Rockler oversized aluminum plate for the PC 7518 installed in the same type top. A step up would be to cover 3/4" Baltic birch plywood on both sides with Formica; this is how the Router Workshop top is made.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

As a beginning woodworker my very first project was a router table cabinet I built based in part from a picture in a woodworking Magazine. The top, fence and aluminum insert plate are Woodpeckers and an Incra Miter Gauge. I have had three different routers installed, but finally settled on a PC 892 which IMHO is the next best thing to a high dollar lift. The ability to lock and unlock the router, set the height adjustment with the same tool and change bits from the table top is an added plus. The Woodpeckers aluminum table insert plate is drilled specifically for the PC 892 and comes with the offset wrench to change bits above the table.


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

*Formica table top*



Mike said:


> Roger, the Oak Park plates are no longer available. The good news is it is simple to use a different sized mounting plate in this table design. The economy table top used a HF mounting plate which is just a hair smaller than the Grizzly plate. In the photos below you will see a Rockler oversized aluminum plate for the PC 7518 installed in the same type top. A step up would be to cover 3/4" Baltic birch plywood on both sides with Formica; this is how the Router Workshop top is made.


Mike,

I have 3 sink cutouts from when my house was built. They have formica on one side. If I glue 2 of them back to back, is that equivalent to formica on both sides?

They have bracing in the form of strips where the mdf is thicker than the main body of the MDF. If I leave them in place, I'll have formica on both faces but a lot of air space between the 2 pieces. I assume I should use the router to trim those off and glue the now fully flat backs to each other.

Is triimming the edge done to help seal the edges of the top, or just for looks?


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

Ken Bee said:


> As a beginning woodworker my very first project was a router table cabinet I built based in part from a picture in a woodworking Magazine. The top, fence and aluminum insert plate are Woodpeckers and an Incra Miter Gauge. I have had three different routers installed, but finally settled on a PC 892 which IMHO is the next best thing to a high dollar lift. The ability to lock and unlock the router, set the height adjustment with the same tool and change bits from the table top is an added plus. The Woodpeckers aluminum table insert plate is drilled specifically for the PC 892 and comes with the offset wrench to change bits above the table.


Ken,
Geat input, thanks. Are you able to compare the PC 892 with the Bosch 1617 ? Since you like the 892, are there shortcomings in the 1617 compared to it?


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

rogimoto said:


> Ken,
> Geat input, thanks. Are you able to compare the PC 892 with the Bosch 1617 ? Since you like the 892, are there shortcomings in the 1617 compared to it?


I am not familiar with the Bosch 1617, but Mike seems to like it over about any other router for table use. Considering I don't have a 1617 router I can't make an honest evaluation of it as a hand held plunge router or for table usage. As I said my choice is the PC 892 for the simple fact everything about it can be done above the table top except speed adjustment. I have 8 routers and I see no point in spending around $300.00 for a router, i.e. the Bosch 1617 when the PC 895 kit can be had somewhat cheaper. I may be wrong, but it is my understanding the 1617 is a plunge router only whereas the PC 895 kit is a fixed base as well as a plunge router. I assure you Mike will jump on me with all four feet if I am wrong about this. :lol:

Something you need to know is my high regard and respect for Mike and his opinions on everything to do with routing. Mostly because he has been at it much longer than myself. My knowledge comes from a tremendous amount of reading and research including following the opinions and teachings in this forum. I grant you, my opinion and suggestions my not always be accepted but I look at it as a learning experience when corrected. I may be older than dirt, but I will never be to old to learn. 

Now then, it is up to you to decide which router you untimely use in your table. I didn't decide on the PC 892 based on an opinion in the Router Forum, but rather on research in books and online reviews. Long story short, I bought the PC 895 kit for $70.00 at a flea market because it had a non-working motor. I re-wired it, added a speed controller and it is now a permanent resident in my router table.


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## Hsobel (Jan 25, 2012)

I can speak to the Bosch 1617 in a table mount. It is available with fixed base, plunge base, both bases, and I believe, as a bare motor only with an optional table base which is simply the fixed base with no baseplate or handles. That is what I have in my table. It comes with above table adjustment and a hand crank. All you have to do is drill a hole in the plate for the crank. The only thing you can't do above the table is speed changes. It has soft start and a brake. I find that for a 2 1/2 HP motor it has tons of power and never bogs down. For me the only thing I would consider above this is the PC 17182 bare motor with a router lift. That setup is much more spendy though. You can get into the Bosch with table mount for about two hundred dollars where the PC will be about six hundred. It depends on the depth of your pockets. I'm very happy with the Bosch.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Roger, you would not want void space between your cut outs. Dual layers of MDF is popular with many members. Edge banding serves both purposes; looks and adding strength/moisture resistance. It is not difficult, glue the end boards on first and once they are dry add the front and back boards. Chamfer or round over the edges and apply some finish to seal them.

Oh and Ken... just because I wear size 15EEEE shoes does not mean I have 4 feet. 
The Bosch 1617 and 1617EVS are combo kit routers.


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## Slomoe (Feb 14, 2011)

I have the Bosch 1617evs set. Reg base stays in the table and the plunge is used for outside the table work. Motor drops out very easy, for bit change, like the way it adjusts height - no tangled cords. soft start var speed on it's own and manual select. Great router - would buy it again in a flash.


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## ARCJR (Feb 9, 2012)

I was getting ready to build a router table also. I picked up another PC router this weekend, the 895pk. It came with a fixed base and a plunge base. I do not plan on using the plunge, but I bought the 895pk because it came with a router table lift adjuster. I am hoping this saves me the money from an expensive lift (at least for now). I picked up the router for $219 plus I got an 11% rebate. I think it was a pretty good deal.

Anyway back to the RT. I had plans to build my own table and even downloaded a plan online. I start pricing, t-track, table insert, levelers, and material to build my own. After I started pricing everything I found some kits in Rockler already built. I landed up purchasing the table top, with insert for the (pc890), and fence for $159, plus free shipping. I am sure I will be money and less head-aches ahead. Now all I have to do is build a cabinet or attach it to a steel table frame you can pick up at sears for about $30. I have a router and table ready to use almost right out of the box.


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

Hi Alex,
I've been working through all the design options for my table, and your post made me realize that I didn't give much consideration to the build vs. buy decision. I just assumed. I am going to post one more query here, which will affect the cost of building, and then I may end up going the same route as you. Thanks for posting your decision.

Also, the price for the PC895PK is much better than anything I found. Would you be kind enough to share the source? I'm not sure I would switch from my current choice (Bosch 1617 kit), but I hadn't seriously considered it due to price up to now.


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

My remaining question I would like to ask has to do with the style of the table top. I think of most tables I see as being one of the following 2 styles.

Style 1 is a table like the router workshop table, where the plate and router are placed off to one end and the table itself is fairly plain and the fence is unattached.

Style 2 has T-track in/on the fence and perhaps in the table for feather-board, stops, etc. and maybe has a slot for a miter guage. The fence is attached but movable.

Style 2 gives the impression of being safer and maybe more versatile, but I've never used a RT, so what do I know? I would like to understand what users see as the primary advantages of the two styles. 

Once I get a handle on this, I'm ready to buy/order stuff.

Thanks,
Roger


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Roger, this is strictly a matter of choice. Both ways work; go with what you are most comfortable with. Here is a fence design from Woodsmith; I would not choose to have my bits and wrenches stored this way but I am sure others will like it: Router Table Fence Storage | Woodsmith Tips


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## Stuck (Feb 3, 2012)

Roger:
One thing more you might want to consider for the size of your table. Would you ever want to add a Incra posititioner to your table?

Gary


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Roger, can you post some pics of what you ended up with? A big part of my garage organization project is re-doing my workbench which will double as a router table. I am always looking for more ideas and have alot to learn.


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## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

Gary's post resonated with me. I love the Incra Positioner, though I haven't used it much yet. If that is in your future (near or a ways out) you will want an offset cutout to allow for the Incra Jig.


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

*Incra positioner*



Stuck said:


> Roger:
> One thing more you might want to consider for the size of your table. Would you ever want to add a Incra positioner to your table?
> 
> Gary



Gary,
It's a good question, and I honestly don't know. I know the Incra is supposed to be very precise, and is well thought of. But until I get some table routing experience, I'm not sure I will appreciate whether I want/need it. I'll assume I should offset the plate/router if I want to accommodate the Incra.

I'm leaning toward the RW table, which is 30" long, and is an offset design. I'm also considering the end of my workbench. Either way, I hoping to add T-track and a miter guage slot.


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

Chris Curl said:


> Roger, can you post some pics of what you ended up with? A big part of my garage organization project is re-doing my workbench which will double as a router table. I am always looking for more ideas and have alot to learn.


Hi Chris,

I'm about to start ordering, so I don't have any pics yet. Here is what I plan to buy/build:

Bosch 1617EVSPK kit

Router workshop plans
I'm thinking I will modify the plans to make it sit in or on my workbench, and about 4" higher than the bench top. Alternatively I'll just build to plan and put the whole thing at the end of my bench. Also I will add T-track, miter slot, and probably try their PE fence and build one also.

Earlier in this thread, Mike posted some pics of the RW table, including a nifty little vacuum head. That looks like it would be worth building.

If you are building a workbench, you might like seeing mine. It won't impress any woodworkers but it was cheap, and fast, and it's rock solid. The top can be treated as sacrificial, as it lifts off easily and drops in easily. The dimensions are 8' x 30". You can go as high as 8' x 4'. You buy the legs ($68 at Amazon) and then buy your own sheet stock and 2x4's. I used MDF, but Birch plywood is a good option as well.


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## darrink (Sep 7, 2009)

rogimoto said:


> Hi Alex,
> I've been working through all the design options for my table, and your post made me realize that I didn't give much consideration to the build vs. buy decision. I just assumed. I am going to post one more query here, which will affect the cost of building, and then I may end up going the same route as you. Thanks for posting your decision.
> 
> Also, the price for the PC895PK is much better than anything I found. Would you be kind enough to share the source? I'm not sure I would switch from my current choice (Bosch 1617 kit), but I hadn't seriously considered it due to price up to now.


Now that you are considering buying vs building you may want to look at the Grizzly router table for $139.00. It includes the stand, table top, router plate, fence and T-track, etc. Not a bad deal if you prefer to buy vs. build. I know it's been mentioned elsewhere on the forum.

T10432 Router Table with Stand


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Roger, I inset a Rousseau mounting plate into the end of a bench similar to yours for a friend. He left it set up with the Oak Park box joint jig as he made boxes all the time. This is not practical for use as a regular router table but for a dedicated set up it works great. I suggest using one of the Grizzly PT10432047 mounting plates for this. At this time they are out of stock but Grizzly expedited an order at my request so they will be in soon. If you build the economy table top shown in the sticky thread in this section you can clamp it to your bench so it extends over the end. Using 3/4" Baltic birch plywood with Formica top and bottom is the ideal way to go for this top. When time allows you can add the rest of the RW table to this top.(It is identical in size to the Oak Park table)


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

Darrin,

That table certainly is a lot for the money. And, its currently $10 less than the price you had, so even a better deal. Thanks for the info.

--Roger

Correction, there is a $10 extra charge, so your price is exactly right.


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

Mike,
I'm glad you told me about the in-bench mount. Otherwise I would have learned the hard way. I put a straight-edge on my sink cutouts, and found that they each have a low spot in their center area. Just for grins I'm going to glue 2 of them together to see if that might level out the surfaces. If not, the build option probably includes phenolic faced plywood from woodcraft.

Thank you one more time.
--Roger


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## ARCJR (Feb 9, 2012)

*PC 895pk deal.*

It was on sale at Menards and they are offering an 11% rebate on anything you buy. Menards is a large home improvement store in the Midwest, it is similar to Home Depot and Lowes.





rogimoto said:


> Hi Alex,
> I've been working through all the design options for my table, and your post made me realize that I didn't give much consideration to the build vs. buy decision. I just assumed. I am going to post one more query here, which will affect the cost of building, and then I may end up going the same route as you. Thanks for posting your decision.
> 
> Also, the price for the PC895PK is much better than anything I found. Would you be kind enough to share the source? I'm not sure I would switch from my current choice (Bosch 1617 kit), but I hadn't seriously considered it due to price up to now.


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## JohnnyB60 (Jun 15, 2009)

So I read this a couple of times and I’m completely confused. I must be missing something. What are you going to do or use? I take it that you’re going to use inset mounting plate and make your own table?


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

JohnnyB60 said:


> So I read this a couple of times and I’m completely confused. I must be missing something. What are you going to do or use? I take it that you’re going to use inset mounting plate and make your own table?


Johnny,
I have ended up planning to build the table top as described by Mike in the sticky section of this forum. At his suggestion, I will clamp this to the bench top for now, and build a table and cabinet to plans from the router workshop. I'm getting the Rousseau 3509 plate and 3509-T install kit from Amazon. I'll try to keep the thread updated better with progress (if & when).

-Roger


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The Rousseau 3509-9-2 template makes for a very quick and clean installation. The included two piece guide bushing alone is worth the cost of the kit. I have used mine many times. Rousseau's 3509 plate is the most popular in the world. Many companies have cloned it from Woodpeckers, MLCS, HF and Grizzly. Keep in mind that the Rousseau has a patented difference: the plate is slightly convex. All other plates should be flat.


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## Slomoe (Feb 14, 2011)

Is the Rousseau plate a standard size or is it one of those 9x12 sizes? If it’s 9x12 you can never upgrade to a lift if you want to without buying or making a new table. 
Just a note here: I found corrosion between my router base and the plate. The fix was – go to a sign store and get a piece of the material they make stick-on signs with and cover the bottom of the plate = stops corrosion and electrolysis – the material is only .004 thick.
I made my own plate and keep the size to a minium 8x 8 1/4x 1/4 - 7075 T-6 alum. covered w/ formica w/ 4 different size rings.


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Slomoe said:


> Is the Rousseau plate a standard size or is it one of those 9x12 sizes? If it’s 9x12 you can never upgrade to a lift if you want to without buying or making a new table.
> Just a note here: I found corrosion between my router base and the plate. The fix was – go to a sign store and get a piece of the material they make stick-on signs with and cover the bottom of the plate = stops corrosion and electrolysis – the material is only .004 thick.
> I made my own plate and keep the size to a minium 8x 8 1/4x 1/4 - 7075 T-6 alum. covered w/ formica w/ 4 different size rings.


Now I am really confused so please help me.  Why do you say if a 9x12 insert plate is installed in a table you can't install a lift without rebuilding your table? Just for my edification where do you get your information stating a 9x12 plate will not work? The reason I ask is because I just made a search and discovered the 9x12 insert is the optimum plate for all lifts and the lifts I did see have a 9x12 insert plate attached as standard equipment so to speak. 

In other words the 9x12 insert plate is the accepted standard for a router table plate mounting hole. The only reason a person would have to modify or rebuild a table to accept a 9x12 lift insert plate is if they installed a round insert plate. 

If I am wrong in this assumption somebody please enlighten me.


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## Slomoe (Feb 14, 2011)

All the following companies lifts and plates are 9.25 x 11.75 - Woodpecker, JessEm, Jointech, Incra, Kreg, WoodHaven
Bench Dog uses - 8.25 x 11.75
So what do you do with a 12” hole? Your oversize on both sides for a BenchDog lift/plate. 
Lip requirements are different for various models too.
A 12" plate is 1/4" larger. Never could understand why companies can't standardize some things.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

This seems to be pretty close to what you were considering earlier:










Space-Saving Bench Router Table Woodworking Plan


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## KenBee (Jan 1, 2011)

Slomoe said:


> All the following companies lifts and plates are 9.25 x 11.75 - Woodpecker, JessEm, Jointech, Incra, Kreg, WoodHaven
> Bench Dog uses - 8.25 x 11.75
> So what do you do with a 12” hole? Your oversize on both sides for a BenchDog lift/plate.
> Lip requirements are different for various models too.
> A 12" plate is 1/4" larger. Never could understand why companies can't standardize some things.


So I rounded off the 9.25 x 11.75 to 9 x 12. I am sure most everybody knew what I was saying. One lift plate out of a dozen that has a different measurement does not constitute the requirement a table has to be rebuilt in order to use a lift. That would imply any and all people with an existing router table that decide to install a lift would have the added expense of fully building or buying a new table to accommodate a router lift plate. 

You can almost bet the farm Bench Dog uses those plate measurements to entice people to buy their table systems in order to use their lifts. One lift plate with a different measurement does not nullify the use of of all other standard lifts in 99.9% of all tables.

I really don't know anything about the various lip sizes, but I doubt a table would have to be re-topped to install any lift other than the Bench Dog. I will concede though that some plates are of different thicknesses that would possibly require some lips be slightly modified to accept a 3/8 inch thick plate. The width of the lip on all tops, even those home built tables are very likely capable of working with all lift plates because of the various aftermarket insert plate leveling devices. Actually anybody worth their salt could build a table without a lip and build their own device to support and level the insert plate. I have a Woodpeckers top and a Woodpeckers 1/4 inch aluminum insert plate but the depth of the lip is a tad over 3/8 deep and the leveling screws will raise the insert around 1/8 inch above level.

By not letting my intelligence get in the way of my common sense I would think for all practical purposes router lifts are manufactured to be installed in existing insert cutouts thereby making lifts and table cutouts more standardized than not.


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## Slomoe (Feb 14, 2011)

The original post was the concern that a Rousseau brand plate is advertised at 9” x 12” whereas most of the expensive lift plates and plain plates are 9.25” x 11.75”. Maybe you know more about the actual size of the Rousseau plate, but my post was to note that the larger size plate would cause problems at a later date if you changed to a lift plate. I see you have used the Woodpecker plate. If you had started with a Rousseau plate and cut your table opening to 9 x 12 and you later wanted to upgrade to a Woodpecker lift – well then your table opening would be ¼” larger than the new lift. I would not be a happy camper if I had to put a filler strip in my table. In your case –you started with a 9.25 x 11.75, so you could just drop in a new lift with no problems.
I made my 8 x 8 ¼ plate because that is the material I had in stock, with enough to make the plate and 4 inserts on my mill. I will never upgrade to a lift. I use a hat section I made and a dial indicator to set my bit height.


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

I am fully committed to building a particular design, although a couple of options still exist late in the project.

Phase I: Build a table top as in Mikes sticky in this forum. I'm using Phenolic faced plywood, Rousseau 3509 plate and installation kit. This may be the final product, depending on how I like working with a table clamped to my benchtop. If I don't, then on to phase II.

Phase II: I have ordered the plans for the RW table & cabinet. In this phase i will build these other parts of the overall RW design and put it together as a floor standing unit.

Note: The Oak-Park website wanted to charge me $13 shipping for this $4 plan. I got on the phone, and they willingly adjusted shipping down to $2, even though they will be mailing it to a third-world country (New Mexico). If you want these plans and you are anywhere near as tight as I am, the phone call is worth the effort.


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## rogimoto (Jan 9, 2012)

Hi all! This is a belated update on my router table. It is progressing, but slowly. I tend to get studious with new tools (router, major dust, major fun) and being a newbie, I have quite a few extra trips to lowe's to make, or order's from Rocklers for basics....like glue.

But my main detour has been a decision I made that I needed a panel sled on my table saw. So I've got that almost done, and a dust control upgrade on the saw is done, and then I'm back to the router table. I'll post some pics when I have some worth posting.

Best,
Roger


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## srma63 (Nov 1, 2012)

*Rousseau 3000 Series Router Lift*

I spoke with a Rousseau rep last month and he confirmed that the JessEm/Rousseau router lift was discontinued about 2 years ago. It was not a high demand product line, apparently. I'm not sure why Rousseau went with a 9x12 base plate or, for that matter, why the rest of the router industry seems to have adopted the 9.25x 11.75 base. Does anyone know of a router lift manufacturer that offers a 9x12 base that is compatible with the Rousseau PortaMax extension tables? I realize that many router aficionados look down on table saw/router table combos, but for some jobs it's very convenient to have one (e.g., refreshing or creating T&G edges on flooring and siding).


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Mike said:


> Roger, the Oak Park plates are no longer available. The good news is it is simple to use a different sized mounting plate in this table design. The economy table top used a HF mounting plate which is just a hair smaller than the Grizzly plate. In the photos below you will see a Rockler oversized aluminum plate for the PC 7518 installed in the same type top. A step up would be to cover 3/4" Baltic birch plywood on both sides with Formica; this is how the Router Workshop top is made.


Mike... looking at your picture... you have given a whole new meaning to "portable routing" and "horizontal router table"


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I am very fortunate Nick; BrianS recently got a great deal on a bunch of used Oak Park stuff. It took some serious horse trading but I got two of the discontinued mounting plates from him.


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