# How to make this hole look nice?



## LuckyNumber7 (Feb 4, 2012)

I was just wondering how I woulld finish off these holes so that they were nice and smooth? I originally cut the hole with a Forstner bit and then put a 45º bevel on it. The pores look a little too deep to sand out without changing the appearance of the hole. Would I need to put some putty in there? Any good recommendations for which one?

Ultimately I think I will be painting this frame with a color so matching the wood isn't all that important. But later down the road I might want to stain finish it. The wood is Poplar

Thanks


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Sanding the pores smooth will be tedious and may make the holes off round. You are probably better to use wood filler and then lightly sand to get smooth.


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## LuckyNumber7 (Feb 4, 2012)

Is there a brand you would suggest?

Also, do you think there would be a way to drill that without having it turn out like that, or is that the norm?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI

I would suggest using the item below, mix it up like thin soup use a clean wet rag and put it in place but like most it will seal the wood so to staining it is out.

Amazon.com: Durham Donald Co 4Lb Wtr Putty 169 Wood Putty: Home Improvement


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LuckyNumber7 said:


> I was just wondering how I woulld finish off these holes so that they were nice and smooth? I originally cut the hole with a Forstner bit and then put a 45º bevel on it. The pores look a little too deep to sand out without changing the appearance of the hole. Would I need to put some putty in there? Any good recommendations for which one?
> 
> Ultimately I think I will be painting this frame with a color so matching the wood isn't all that important. But later down the road I might want to stain finish it. The wood is Poplar
> 
> Thanks


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I have been using Fix brand wood filler. It contains wood flour, it dries fast and sands easily. It is supposed to take stain well. If you are not in a rush I should know next week. I can't remember if I got it at Lowes or HD.


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## LuckyNumber7 (Feb 4, 2012)

bobj3 said:


> HI
> 
> I would suggest using the item below, mix it up like thin soup use a clean wet rag and put it in place but like most it will seal the wood so to staining it is out.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the link. I will have to check and see if the local hardware store has that. If not I can just order from Amazon. 



Mike said:


> I have been using Fix brand wood filler. It contains wood flour, it dries fast and sands easily. It is supposed to take stain well. If you are not in a rush I should know next week. I can't remember if I got it at Lowes or HD.


Yeah, no rush. This is just my trial and error frame for right now. I still have to figure out the exact layout I want for buttons and and connectors. Eventually I want it to turn out like this picture below


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

LuckyNumber7 said:


> Is there a brand you would suggest?
> 
> Also, do you think there would be a way to drill that without having it turn out like that, or is that the norm?


If you just paint it, I would have to agree with Bob on the Durham's. In some cases it is harder than the wood you patch. It is almost like an epoxy, what you don't use after it's mixed, you throw away.

I would have used a Forstner too. If it is a good quality one that is nice and sharp then that may be the best you can do. It should have scoring spurs on the outer edges to slice the grain before the cutter lifts it.

If you drilled them freehand a drill press might help and you could try various feed speeds. Be careful that you don't heat the bit up by going too slow.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

You can get a ball sander that should work well to get it just right, they make them from 2" to 6" in diam.like the one below

4" 400 Grit Fine Grade Abrasive Ball

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LuckyNumber7 said:


> Thanks for the link. I will have to check and see if the local hardware store has that. If not I can just order from Amazon.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, no rush. This is just my trial and error frame for right now. I still have to figure out the exact layout I want for buttons and and connectors. Eventually I want it to turn out like this picture below


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## LuckyNumber7 (Feb 4, 2012)

I think I am going to try another method as well. 

What it consist of is drilling the through hole with a forstner bit and then routing out the larger hole with a template and straight bit. Then I can put the bevel on there with the 45º bit.


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## LuckyNumber7 (Feb 4, 2012)

I also forgot to say that I picked up some wood filler at the local hardware store and tried that... Lets just say that it didn't turn out to well. 

I am going to see if I can thin it out some and maybe it would work better. For now though it just goes on too thick and I have to spend a bunch of time sanding lumps out of it.


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Best to drill with drill press as it holds a consistent speed and speed is what most people drill to fast , also if drilling through wood put a piece of wood under the one Your drilling it will help keep the original hole clean . I would use a filler and sand it smooth ...Good Luck


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## LuckyNumber7 (Feb 4, 2012)

Alright, tried the second method I was thinking of today and I must say that I like the result 1000x better than just drilling with the forstner bits. 

I drilled the 1" through hole with a Forstner bit, but then I routered out the larger 1 3/8" hole. I made a template and did it that way.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Good to know. I probably would have called it good with the Forstner bit.


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## VA Wood (Dec 8, 2009)

Bore your "starter" holes. To get the angled sides or the holes to be uniform, I'd construct a jig that will restrict movement of my router to a circle centered over the middle of the starter hole. I'd chuch up a 45 degree chamfer bit in my router and have it create the beveled sides you want. The router should give you a smoother side face. Depending on the diameter of the starter hole, you may have to start out with a smaller chamfer bit and after increasing the effective diameter, swap bits to a larger one.
Good luck.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Jason; if you are interested, the hardwood floor refinishing contractors buy 1 gallon pails of filler that's a pleasure to work with. Very thin and intended exactly for what you need, pore filling. It may or may not come pre-coloured, but in any case it takes stain beautifully...that's the whole point. 
(I'm talking about real hardwood, not laminate flooring)


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## dick in ia (Jul 23, 2007)

I would suggest going with a closed grain wood such as cherry---etc.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Mix durhams in small quanities on a flat board with a putty knife pressing the dry into the wet. Add water a few drops at a time if its too stiff. Stirring it doesn't work well.
I love the stuff


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## japa62 (May 9, 2012)

I like how you experimented with the 2nd method but to the first question, I would use Aquadhere (PVA glue) mixed with sanddust from the same wood. Does wonders for me.


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## rochnhillie (May 14, 2012)

Check out Woodwise or Timbermate


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