# Bosch 1617 vs 1619 for raised panel



## chinnlab (Jun 25, 2015)

Could you use the 2 HP Bosch 1617 for routing raised panels (3.5" bit) or do I have to switch to the 3 HP 1619? I have the 2 HP mounted in a table, and may have to get another mounting plate to attached the 1619 if that is what it takes.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

just take smaller/shallower bites and run the router at slower speed...


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

chinnlab said:


> Could you use the 2 HP Bosch 1617 for routing raised panels (3.5" bit) or do I have to switch to the 3 HP 1619? I have the 2 HP mounted in a table, and may have to get another mounting plate to attached the 1619 if that is what it takes.


The answer is yes. Run the 1617 at it's slowest speed and make several passes, cutting off a little more each time until you get the desired result.

However, more HP will make the job easier. 
I have done it both ways. I Used the 1617 for one set of cabinets. By the time I got ready to build the second set, I had purchased the Triton 3 1/4 HP router. It just loafed along. I still made several passes.

Here's a few pics of the 1617. My setup looks weird because the big cutter wouldn't fit through the opening in the Rockler Group "A" plate. I had to add on an auxiliary table top and install the big cutter from above the table. It worked just fine after that.

Note: I changed insert plates to the Kreg models. They have a larger opening so no problems.

Here's my router table.
http://www.routerforums.com/show-n-tell/46562-adjustable-height-workstation-router-table-more.html

Hope this helps.
Mike


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Mike how would you do a veneered panel? would a solid band around the outside have to be glued on so the profile is not showing plywood?

Herb


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Mike how would you do a veneered panel? would a solid band around the outside have to be glued on so the profile is not showing plywood?
> 
> Herb


are you using plywood for the rail and stiles or cutting a RP profile into plywood panels???...


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> Mike how would you do a veneered panel? would a solid band around the outside have to be glued on so the profile is not showing plywood?
> 
> Herb


I really don't know. Without an edge band of about two inches in width (or more), the inner parts of the panel will be visible as the cutter removes the material.

That might require some test cuts to see what the result would look like.


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> are you using plywood for the rail and stiles or cutting a RP profile into plywood panels???...


I was thinking of a plywood veneered panel with the raised panel profile and a solid wood rail and stile.
But I wouldn't want the raised panel profile to show plywood edge.


Herb


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

You asked this question in two different threads and I responded in the other one here: http://www.routerforums.com/portable-routing/69922-bosch-1917-vs-1619-a.html#post700490


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Mike said:


> You asked this question in two different threads and I responded in the other one here: http://www.routerforums.com/portable-routing/69922-bosch-1917-vs-1619-a.html#post700490


LOL, I hadn't got back to that post yet, thanks for the answer.
But my dilemma here is I would use the router table and a raised panel bit to cut the edge profile on the panel. I want to use veneered plywood for the panel, and don't want the plywood edge grain to show in the raised cut area around the center panel. Then these panels would be installed into solid wood rails and stiles.

Herb


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Herb, is the panel veneered on both sides?


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Yes if it is a door, but no if it is a box. The back side could be veneered up after the panel is cut too. but the front would have the veneer already installed.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Herb, my post was directed to N/a. You would have to glue solid wood to all four edges of the plywood to hide the lamination's on the raised panels. That means gluing up a bunch of short sections for the top and bottom edges so the grain is in the proper orientation but you would never get it to match the veneered panel. This is why panels are built from solid wood. (Unless they are being painted)


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Here is my example. i haven't figured out how to use the Follow Me tool yet in Sketchup so I couldn't create the profile around the panel.

It looks to me like you would have to make a panel using plywood and four pieces of matching hardwood. After you cut the profile, the veneer should stand proud and the hardwood would show but no plywood would be visible.

Then you could veneer the back side.
Sounds like a lot of work.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> I was thinking of a plywood veneered panel with the raised panel profile and a solid wood rail and stile.
> But I wouldn't want the raised panel profile to show plywood edge.
> 
> 
> Herb


stain or paint???...
how many plies???...


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

MT Stringer said:


> Here is my example. i haven't figured out how to use the Follow Me tool yet in Sketchup so I couldn't create the profile around the panel.
> 
> It looks to me like you would have to make a panel using plywood and four pieces of matching hardwood. After you cut the profile, the veneer should stand proud and the hardwood would show but no plywood would be visible.
> 
> ...





Mike said:


> Herb, my post was directed to N/a. You would have to glue solid wood to all four edges of the plywood to hide the lamination's on the raised panels. That means gluing up a bunch of short sections for the top and bottom edges so the grain is in the proper orientation but you would never get it to match the veneered panel. This is why panels are built from solid wood. (Unless they are being painted)



Thanks , Mike and MikeST, that is what I was asking about. The reason I even asked was that I have some nice veneered plywood and was thinking of ways to use it in a raised panel set-up. 

Herb


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Herb; wouldn't it simpler to just make up solid wood door panels? Or do Shaker style doors using ply for the panels? Or make up thinner solid panels to overlay onto the plywood? 1/2" solid on 1/4" ply...but I think you'd hate the grain effect with that.


----------



## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Why not just use solid panels what the advantage of the veneer


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I have this pick-up load of really nice veneer, lots of black walnut and other kinds of veneer that was given to me and I want to use it. At the cost of these kinds of solid woods, it is a virtual fortune in nice looking wood. It would be a shame to throw it away. I have already laid up a lot of it on 1/2" birch plywood and now am figuring out ways to use it to make things.

Herb


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> and now am figuring out ways to use it to make things.
> 
> Herb


need a shipping address???...


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Herb; wouldn't it simpler to just make up solid wood door panels? Or do Shaker style doors using ply for the panels? Or make up thinner solid panels to overlay onto the plywood? 1/2" solid on 1/4" ply...but I think you'd hate the grain effect with that.





Semipro said:


> Why not just use solid panels what the advantage of the veneer





Stick486 said:


> need a shipping address???...


Do you do veneering ?
Herb


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Do you do veneering ?
> Herb


not for some time...


----------



## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> not for some time...


But if it shows up at Hacienda Stick, he'll get back into it! 

Holy Hanna, that's a windfall, Herb...:0


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

here.. no muss no fuss,,,
dark stain the rabbet, the darker the better...


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> here.. no muss no fuss,,,
> dark stain the rabbet, the darker the better...


Great idea ,Stick, I could make it like a picture frame, with a shadow groove around the panel.

I apologize to chinnlab for derailing his post, I should have started a separate thread.

Herb


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Herb; wouldn't it simpler to just make up solid wood door panels? Or do Shaker style doors using ply for the panels? Or make up thinner solid panels to overlay onto the plywood? 1/2" solid on 1/4" ply...but I think you'd hate the grain effect with that.


Thanks,Dan, that would work too, but I am not really fond of Shaker style, the square edges on the rail and styles just don't turn me on. 

Herb


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

hijack/derail spoken here...


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> hijack/derail spoken here...


Sorry
Herb


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Great idea ,Stick, I could make it like a picture frame, with a shadow groove around the panel.
> 
> I apologize to chinnlab for derailing his post, I should have started a separate thread.
> 
> Herb


cut the rabbet a veneer deeper (face to back)...
dye the shoulder dark... (fill or leave voids - your option)...
veneer the check with the same veneer as the face of the panel or use a contrasting veneer...


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Herb,,, with a stash like that, try tinkering around with some geometric veneering... 

I guarantee you'll get hooked!! Even give inlay a try... 

steady hand

#10 scalpel w/extra blades

cutting mat

good straight edge

thumb guard and your set...............


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Herb,,, with a stash like that, try tinkering around with some geometric veneering...
> 
> I guarantee you'll get hooked!! Even give inlay a try...
> 
> ...



I have been thinking about it, never done that, sounds like marquetry to me.

Herb


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Herb Stoops said:


> I have been thinking about it, never done that, sounds like marquetry to me.
> 
> Herb


Herb,, pretty much is!! Geometric is a great way to get the hand of it. 

Do you know the thickness of your veneers? 1/32, 1/42??? For marquetry, thinner is better,.. easier to work. for the geometric stuff, you can use the thicker since you're avoiding radius's.


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Oops Posted this twice.


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Herb,, pretty much is!! Geometric is a great way to get the hand of it.
> 
> Do you know the thickness of your veneers? 1/32, 1/42??? For marquetry, thinner is better,.. easier to work. for the geometric stuff, you can use the thicker since you're avoiding radius's.


I will have to look into that,kind of beyond my MO. I am not a good artist.
As far as the thicknesses, there are in several different ones.

This came about when a fellow contacted me, and said he had cleaned out the garage/shop of a deceased Professor who was the wood identifier for the University. This stash was in the attic and had years of accumulation . The old fellow had built all the cabinets in his house and these were a lot of odds and ends left. It was all scheduled to go to the dump. So he donated it to our woodworking group. There is absolutely no interest in our group for it so I wound up with it.
So I am looking for ways to use some of it and laid up a bunch on 1/2" birch plywood.

Now you have sparked an interest in my head of inlay/marquetry.
I will look into that, Thanks.
Herb


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Herb Stoops said:


> Now you have sparked an interest in my head of inlay/marquetry.
> I will look into that, Thanks.
> Herb


here ya go...
should keep off the streets for some time to come...

Veneering and Woodworking Articles


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> here ya go...
> should keep off the streets for some time to come...
> 
> Veneering and Woodworking Articles


Thanks Stick, 

Herb


----------



## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Here ya go Herb.... just a tease...

easy to do, 60* cuts..makes for a very nice box top...all you'll need is a good knife, I like to use a scalpel w/#10 blades and a good
straight edge with a lil bit of a lip so the blade doesn't ride up...you can use 3 different woods, or take a single, light wood, cut into
3 sections, leave one natural, a light stain on the 2nd, then using the same stain, make an even darker 3rd piece...

if this dont' hook ya, nuttin will


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Here ya go Herb.... just a tease...
> 
> easy to do, 60* cuts..makes for a very nice box top...all you'll need is a good knife, I like to use a scalpel w/#10 blades and a good
> straight edge with a lil bit of a lip so the blade doesn't ride up...you can use 3 different woods, or take a single, light wood, cut into
> ...


ahhhhhhh...
the oreo cookie...
you want that in chocolate or vanilla???...

good choice on the blade...


----------



## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> ahhhhhhh...
> the oreo cookie...
> you want that in chocolate or vanilla???...
> 
> good choice on the blade...


Ok, Bill and Stick, I will see what I can do, it will take me awhile ,but I will post the results.:grin::grin::grin:

Herb


----------

