# Best flush trim pattern / template material



## ETinker (Jun 29, 2010)

I am planning to make several duck call inserts by cutting the cork slot and upper surface of the tone boards on the table saw with the blanks held in a jig, then routing the curved part of the tone boards in a router jig (which I have yet to make). I plan to use an upper ball bearing flush trim bit in a table mounted router. Originally I had thought of making a laminated edge grain plywood jig configured to hold the insert from the table saw with 1/4" steel or aluminum sides to serve as templates to run against the trim bit bearing. After reading some suggestions in this forum that recommend using phenolic for patterns I'm wondering if phenolic would be better to avoid problems that could occur if a bearing seized or if the router slipped out of adjustment so the cutters would come in contact with a metal template. Thanks for your input.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Carroll, welcome to the forum.

Just my personal opinion, but I would not use metal for any router template.

Bob and Rick used 1/4" baltic birch ply for most of their jigs....


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## flockshot (Mar 15, 2012)

First of all, I like your idea. I may try it myself. I would recommend that you watch the Thurman McCann video on how he uses a wood jig and router on his tone boards.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4pcRElgWabQ&list=PLoXukYWLQtwx-rPvmYrZQL4PanyDfMEBE


I am working on a jig that can duplicate the contour of any existing tone board. If you are interested I can post a couple pictures in a new thread. It has a follower (1/8 rod) that follows the existing board, and a 1/8 router bit on the other side that cuts the new board. If I used a table saw jig to hog out most of the material and cut the notch, there would be a lot less wood for my 1/8 inch bit to worry about.

Good luck on your idea and please keep me posted on your progress.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Hey Carroll it's great to meet you and have you as a member of our community, welcome!


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## papasombre (Sep 22, 2011)

Hello, Caroll.

Ladies are welcome to this forum. Do not forget to post some pictures once you finish your project.


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## ETinker (Jun 29, 2010)

*Router template material*



jw2170 said:


> Hi Carroll, welcome to the forum.
> 
> Just my personal opinion, but I would not use metal for any router template.
> 
> Bob and Rick used 1/4" baltic birch ply for most of their jigs....


Thanks for your suggestion. I found a local source of small scrap and "shorts" of 1/4 Phenolic so I'll probably try that first, but baltic birch ply sounds like a best material second choice. In doing some prototype work I've become a fan of West System epoxy resin for sealing wood, and I'll coat the plywood with WS epoxy (lightly sanded) to fill the grain and hopefully extend the life of the templates.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Hi Carroll and welcome to the forum. In most cases a pattern bit and flush trim bit are interchangeable as far as getting a job done. It's just a matter of which side of your workpiece the template gets attached to. On the router table if you use a pattern bit you'll have a sharp cutter sticking up above your work. If you use a flush trim bit only a bearing will be exposed which is a safer way to go if you can do it that way.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Carroll.


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## ETinker (Jun 29, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Hi Carroll and welcome to the forum. In most cases a pattern bit and flush trim bit are interchangeable as far as getting a job done. It's just a matter of which side of your workpiece the template gets attached to. On the router table if you use a pattern bit you'll have a sharp cutter sticking up above your work. If you use a flush trim bit only a bearing will be exposed which is a safer way to go if you can do it that way.


Hi Cherryville Chuck, 

Thanks for the safety suggestion of having the bearing on top. I plan to mount the insert & jig in a parallel jaw handscrew to hold them for making the cut, but using the proper bit also makes sense. 

I still have all my fingers and both eyes, but could have lost them with some foolish operations in the past. Now goggles go on before I throw the switch on.


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## ETinker (Jun 29, 2010)

Hi Flockshot,
Thanks for the reference to Therman McMann -- that's essentially how I plan to cut my curved toneboard surface. YES! I would like to see some photos or drawings of the duplicating jig you are working on. I'm still trying to learn how to use the forums - apparently newbies can't post links, but there is a great post on Custom Calls Online about a prototype shaper cutter to make all of the insert cuts in one pass. If you are interested I could mail a copy - would need your address.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

E.Tinker said:


> Hi Cherryville Chuck,
> 
> Thanks for the safety suggestion of having the bearing on top. I plan to mount the insert & jig in a parallel jaw handscrew to hold them for making the cut, but using the proper bit also makes sense.
> 
> I still have all my fingers and both eyes, but could have lost them with some foolish operations in the past. Now goggles go on before I throw the switch on.


That's a great plan for holding your work. I love your attitude about safety. Don't forget ear protection. It's a lesson I learned too late. Before I turn on any tool now the Peltor H10 earmuffs go over my ears.


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## flockshot (Mar 15, 2012)

I sent you a Private Message with my email address and will let you know when I post some pictures of my tone board jig.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I use 1/4" Masonite for my templates. If a template will see heavy use then adding a layer of Formica will greatly enhance the life.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Carroll
Maybe this'll help you with the forum!

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...1339167129-how-post-forums-posting-basics.pdf


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