# 12" Belsaw Planer 910 or 912



## CabinetMaker (Dec 24, 2012)

I'm in the process of trying to get my Belsaw planer running and need some electrical help from fellow owners or electrical /motor experts. See attached pics.

The problem is- wire it for 115 or 230 volt? I PREFER 230V The motor is a 2HP Furnas with a tag that states the Amperage is 22.8/11.4 respectively. A wiring diagream on the motor tag staes red, red & blue tied to a black wire (to the starter box) and yellow, black & white to a white wire (to the stater box) and lastly a green ground to the box for both the 115 & the 230. Now take a look @ the starter box and the plug wire end coming out is a 115 configuration. That plugs into a matching, supplied extension cord which has a 230 volt plug end.
My assumption , like a DA, was just tie my 230V 12/2 shop wire into te new receptacle and hit the switch. That particular wire goes back to my main panel and tied to a 15A 230V breaker. I wired it as 2-pole white & black.
Went back in and hit the power button. The planer ran a second and tripped the breaker. Off to my electrician @ Home Depot . He was'nt in. So I got a 20A 230V and wired it in. Hit the on button & nothing. Took a real close look @ everything and found the short cord out of the box was a 115V plug end. The previous owner had replaced the extention cord end with a 230V end.
Long story from a DA. Should of chked it all out 1st.
Please advise.


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Del, is there a wiring diagram on the motor or in the cover where the wires are on the motor? I do believe you have to change the configuration of the wires at the motor to go from 115 volt to 220 volt. I found this maybe it will help.


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## ScottPoe71 (Dec 19, 2011)

RStaron said:


> Del, is there a wiring diagram on the motor or in the cover where the wires are on the motor? I do believe you have to change the configuration of the wires at the motor to go from 115 volt to 220 volt. I found this maybe it will help.


I had the same problem with my Shopsmith 10ER when I changed wire. I had to switch the wire configuration. :big_boss:


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## CabinetMaker (Dec 24, 2012)

Thanks guys. Typically on alternate voltage machines you would hust connect the wires to different posts outside the motor. I hate the thout of opening the motor. Was that what you were suggesting RStaron?


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## rodgerjohnson (Dec 31, 2009)

Looking at picture #1 you are hooked up for 120 volts and said you ran it on 230 volts, I don't know how long a short time is but my guess is you took out the capacitor or burned up the motor (maybe just the starting winding)


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

CabinetMaker said:


> I'm in the process of trying to get my Belsaw planer running and need some electrical help from fellow owners or electrical /motor experts. See attached pics.
> 
> The problem is- wire it for 115 or 230 volt? I PREFER 230V The motor is a 2HP Furnas with a tag that states the Amperage is 22.8/11.4 respectively. A wiring diagream on the motor tag staes red, red & blue tied to a black wire (to the starter box) and yellow, black & white to a white wire (to the stater box) and lastly a green ground to the box for both the 115 & the 230. Now take a look @ the starter box and the plug wire end coming out is a 115 configuration. That plugs into a matching, supplied extension cord which has a 230 volt plug end.
> My assumption , like a DA, was just tie my 230V 12/2 shop wire into te new receptacle and hit the switch. That particular wire goes back to my main panel and tied to a 15A 230V breaker. I wired it as 2-pole white & black.
> ...


Dell, In the motor photo I can see the motor hook-up label on the far right, this shows the correct hook-up for 115v and 220v color codes. Check it very carefully, hopefully you did not damage the motor.

A great new year to all.


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## mikelley (Aug 2, 2012)

Are you plugging into a properly installed 220v source?


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

CabinetMaker said:


> Thanks guys. Typically on alternate voltage machines you would hust connect the wires to different posts outside the motor. I hate the thout of opening the motor. Was that what you were suggesting RStaron?


Del, you only need to open what you are showing in you're first picture. This is where all the hookups are. If you're motor has a burnt smell to it then you might have burned it up. When you get it connected properly and it doesn't work you may have to take it to a motor rebuilder to have it checked out.


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## CabinetMaker (Dec 24, 2012)

You guys are great, no burnt motor smell but you know murphys' law. Rresponding to all
The planer ran for a second & tripped off, second try ran for a second & tripped off. That tells me(maybe no harm to thhe motor the breaker tripped) Being the DA that I am sometimes I was bent on getting a 230V 20 A breaker so I did. It was properly wired @ the panel end for both breakers. Pushed the button for a second on the 20A a couple times & nothing . No motor smells or smoke though. Could have killed it. I'm gonna hope it did'nt
It was'nt until I unplgged the short cord out of the switch box to the long cord to the receptacle. Thats when I saw the 155V end on the short plug (see pic). Your right guys on the motor hookup label. The 230V single line diagram shows Blue to L1/red, orange, white to Ins.???? /& Yellow, Black to L2. So if I use this configuration, does that take them to the manual switch box?? It just does'nt look like the switch box is set up for 230V or am I wrong???


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## Dmeadows (Jun 28, 2011)

CabinetMaker said:


> You guys are great, no burnt motor smell but you know murphys' law. Rresponding to all
> The planer ran for a second & tripped off, second try ran for a second & tripped off. That tells me(maybe no harm to thhe motor the breaker tripped) Being the DA that I am sometimes I was bent on getting a 230V 20 A breaker so I did. It was properly wired @ the panel end for both breakers. Pushed the button for a second on the 20A a couple times & nothing . No motor smells or smoke though. Could have killed it. I'm gonna hope it did'nt
> It was'nt until I unplgged the short cord out of the switch box to the long cord to the receptacle. Thats when I saw the 155V end on the short plug (see pic). Your right guys on the motor hookup label. The 230V single line diagram shows Blue to L1/red, orange, white to Ins.???? /& Yellow, Black to L2. So if I use this configuration, does that take them to the manual switch box?? It just does'nt look like the switch box is set up for 230V or am I wrong???


The switch breaks both L1 and L2, whether wired for 120 or 240. In the first picture in your first post, the motor is definitely wired for 120V operation. In the wiring diagram for 240V, the three wires in the middle group are justed wire nutted to each other and do not connect to anything else! I can't read the colors in your picture, so red, orange, and white? I can't see any purpose for the short/long cords except possibly just an additional means of disconnect. Too many orange wires there without being able to see where they all go to be sure! 

When a circuit is overloaded, the weak link will fail first. Normally(hopefully) that is the circuit breaker. By increasing it to 20A, it may no longer have been the weak link. In that case, something in the motor probably opened instead. May have failed too quickly for there to be any burned smell!

The 3 motor leads that go to L1 and L2 in the 240 diagram should all have continuity to one of the other three, although 1 of them will have the start/run cap in series with it. If any of the three are totally open, the motor is bad!


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## rodgerjohnson (Dec 31, 2009)

If it only ran for a few secounds I think your fine, it is hard to smell smoke or electrical burning smell on totaly inclosed motor, you might if you put your nose next to motor leads.
when you get it hooked up the way you want (120 or 240) be shure to reset overloads they might have kicked also.
Good Luck but I think your fine


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## CabinetMaker (Dec 24, 2012)

THANKS ALL I AM BLOWN AWAY BY THE EXPERIENCE YOU GUYS HAVE IN THIS MOTOR ALL OF YOU HIT IT DEAD ON MEADOWS YOU NAILED IT AS WELL AS THE OTHERS. HERE'S WHAT I DID AFTER TAKING IT TO [email protected] <[email protected]>
THIS GUY "MILL" WAS A ROCKET SCIENTIST ON MOTORS & WIRING . NOT THAT YOU GUYS WERE'NT U WERE. I TEMP GOT THE 230 VOLTAGE OUT OF MY HEAD GOT A 30 AMP 115 BREAKER INSTALLED & WIRED IT PANEL END. CHECKED ALL VOLTAGE WITH MY VTOM. SINCE ALL SAID THE CURRENT MOTOR & SWITCH WIRING WERE SET UP FOR 115. I GOT RID OF THE LONG EXT CORD, USED MY HEAVY DUTY EXT CORD PUT IN A 115 RECEPTACLE & BAM IT CRANKED RIGHT UP & RAN NICELY. NOW I BELIEVE I COULD WIRE IT FOR 230V & USE A 15 AMP BREAKER. I THINK LOOKING @ THE MANUAL SWITCH THE WIRING WOULD STAY THE SAME BUT NOW CHANGE MOTOR LEADS & USE A 230v CORD & RECEPTACLE????? ANOTHER PROB POPPED UP. I TOOK THE SWITCH APART & A SPRING FLEW OUT THE BACK. CD'T FIND IT BUT THINK HOME DEPOT WD HAVE SUMTHG CLOSE. NEED TO KNOW WHERE IT GOES IN THE BACK + THERES SOME KIND OF SLIDING SWITCH OR PART IN THE BACK??? ALSO WHAT IS THE SPRING BEHIND THE SCREW ON THE FRONT OF THE SWITCH BENEATH BOTTOM LEFT HAND SCREW???????


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

Del, that spring coil you are looking at is the thermal overload (commonly called a heater) for the motor. It also needs to be sized for the voltage and current of the motor. This setup is the best motor protection you can have. There should be a chart in the lid of the start switch cover that will list voltage and motor current, and give you a recommended heater number. I can tell the from the photo the "manual starter" is made by Furnas Electric Co. These heater elements will not be available at a local electrical supply house, but they can be found online There is a metal flap on one end of this coil with a letter and a number stamped on it. I looked it up for you it should be H34 or H35 for 220 volt, and H42 or H43 for 110 volt. By the way from looking at the size of the wire in this little coil it looks like it is for 110 volt. These are very important for motor protection. The circuit breaker does NOT to protect the MOTOR its purpose is to protect the WIRE.
The heater chart and prices can be found at;

H Series Furnas Heater Elements -Southland Electrical Supply


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## CabinetMaker (Dec 24, 2012)

Thanks Willway, now I have found te spring that flew out of the back of the switch maybe someone can help me figure out how its mouted on the back side. I'll put up some pics in the next day showing the problem.

The one thing I can count on now is my tax return. dang

Thanks too all


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