# Drill press - choices, choices



## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

OK: So I sold my puny, no-name drill press, and now I'm looking for a replacement. Though I was thinking of a benchtop, these seem so decidedly *non*-portable that I'm considering one free-standing model in the list of candidates.

Any opinions on or experience with these?

Grizzly benchtop:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Speed-Heavy-Duty-Bench-Top-Drill-Press/G7943
Searcs benchtop:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...s&cName=Bench+Power+Tools&sName=Drill+Presses
Ridgid floorstanding:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...ductId=100037270&N=10000003+90021+501991+1600
Delta benchtop:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/s_10153_...ER&&filter=Brand|Delta+Tools&lastFilter=Brand
Ryobi benchtop:
http://www.cporyobi.com/products/zrdp102l.html (Home Depot sells this locally for $169, but it doesn't show up online.)

I'm leaning towards the Ryobi, though I'd definitely get the Grizzly if it didn't have a $76 shipping cost...  ... and I also dither about whether the Ridgid floorstanding model is worth the added cost or not.

So- what are the sage thoughts of the forum collective? 

Thanks in advance!

Bob


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

I have had the Ridgid for about 3 years and have been extremely happy with it.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

I have a Delta floor-standing model with a very heavy cast-iron base. I've only had it for 40 years, though, so I'm not sure how it will hold up in the long term.


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

Ralph Barker said:


> I have a Delta floor-standing model with a very heavy cast-iron base. I've only had it for 40 years, though, so I'm not sure how it will hold up in the long term.


 One more reason why I like this forum... good luck with it, young 'un!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi thistlefly

I like the one below ,, I have one and it's great,, if you want a floor type it's easy to make one with some 2" pipe and two screw on type flanges and some bolts and nuts , about 25.oo dollars in hardware 
If you have a welder it's a bit cheaper to make it up.. 


http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...s&cName=Bench+Power+Tools&sName=Drill+Presses


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thistlefly said:


> OK: So I sold my puny, no-name drill press, and now I'm looking for a replacement. Though I was thinking of a benchtop, these seem so decidedly *non*-portable that I'm considering one free-standing model in the list of candidates.
> 
> Any opinions on or experience with these?
> 
> ...


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> Hi thistlefly
> 
> I like the one below ,, I have one and it's great,, if you want a floor type it's easy to make one with some 2" pipe and two screw on type flanges and some bolts and nuts , about 25.oo dollars in hardware
> If you have a welder it's a bit cheaper to make it up..
> ...


Thanks, Bob. One reason I was considering the Ryobi is that variable-speed feature; I never ended up changing speed on my "toy" drill press just because of the whole pulley/belt switch thing... but I could get used to it, I s'pose. 

With Sears' habit of selling rebranded things made by other companies, I wondered if their drill press might be something like a rebranded Delta; do you happen to know the answer to that one?

I'd get the Grizzly if it were available without that shipping charge, for the power and the range of speeds. The Ryobi has the variable speed as well as a very decent quill travel, 2 3/4 inches; the Ridgid has an exceptional quill travel, 3 3/4 inches... do you happen to know the horsepower and quill travel on the Craftsman? (Their spec sheet is woefully lacking both of those specs.)

Thanks-

Bob


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I have the Ridgid Drill Press and it is fine, but am finding I never use that big floor standing unit and am seriously thinking of getting a smaller unit. The one Bob suggests sure is nice I was checking it out the in the store the other day. I have not seen it on display at all the Sears stores though.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Bob


HP-1/2 
quill travel, see below 3 1/4"
Delta are almost the same as the Craftsman


VS is nice but I just don't change the speed most of the time.. but I do slow it down when I use the 6" hole saw.
I'm not a big fan of the way the VS is setup on most drill press..
I do like the belt system way  almost no slip..



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thistlefly said:


> Thanks, Bob. One reason I was considering the Ryobi is that variable-speed feature; I never ended up changing speed on my "toy" drill press just because of the whole pulley/belt switch thing... but I could get used to it, I s'pose.
> 
> With Sears' habit of selling rebranded things made by other companies, I wondered if their drill press might be something like a rebranded Delta; do you happen to know the answer to that one?
> 
> ...


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI Bob
> 
> 
> HP-1/2
> ...


Thanks, Bob, really appreciate the extra effort. Metric depth as well, in case I ever have to speak English, er, I mean British, um... oh never mind. 

(Nice looking drill press table and vise setup, BTW... )

Bob


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Bob

You're Welcome 

" (Nice looking drill press table and vise setup, BTW... ) "
It now has a 1/2" thick 16" x 18" ploy. cutting board on top of it now 

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thistlefly said:


> Thanks, Bob, really appreciate the extra effort. Metric depth as well, in case I ever have to speak English, er, I mean British, um... oh never mind.
> 
> (Nice looking drill press table and vise setup, BTW... )
> 
> Bob


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

thistlefly said:


> OK: So I sold my puny, no-name drill press, and now I'm looking for a replacement. Though I was thinking of a benchtop, these seem so decidedly *non*-portable that I'm considering one free-standing model in the list of candidates.


Get a floor standing drill press. Eventually you'll want something bigger (a radial drill press might be nice) depth or height wise (you can rotate the table 90 degrees and drill the ends of long objects).

Skip the Delta. They use cheap motors that vibrate A LOT. I got mine replaced under warranty and still had to upgrade to a link belt to keep wood from vibrating right off the table. A 195 pound machine spinning a bit that's usually shy of 1/2" at 3000 RPM should not vibrate. Both times I've ordered parts (the motor, and a broken plastic handle + new chuck key - the chuck key was in stock, but they didn't send it separately until I called) I've had to wait months. Runout and travel on mine is fine, but the build quality overall isn't that good. For example, depth stop isn't square to the adjustment rod.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I have a 12" Delta DP350 benchtop. It has the variable speed that I enjoy having right in front of me. Sure beats changing the belt on the pulleys. Nice DP. About $210 last I looked.
Vibration? None.
http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/Delta/Product/DP350.asp


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

i think any mentioned here would be ok. i have the grizzley floor model. i see you mentioned retiring the toy, imho anything that says ryobi on it is just that. i bought their band saw.. like i said it is just a toy, built cheap and works worse. just my 2 cants.


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## Drew Eckhardt (Aug 2, 2008)

AxlMyk said:


> I have a 12" Delta DP350 benchtop. It has the variable speed that I enjoy having right in front of me. Sure beats changing the belt on the pulleys. Nice DP. About $210 last I looked.
> Vibration? None.
> http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.com/Delta/Product/DP350.asp


Mine's a Delta 17-965. About $400. Not good.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Drew that's nice! How do like it? I was thinking about that at one time.


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## jjciesla (Oct 20, 2007)

I went with a JET and they're on sale till the end of the year.


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

Well now. I _finally_ got to assembling and using my Sears drill press (thanks, BobJ!), and have a question: As I observe the rotating chuck, visually it seems that I see at least some runout... but I have no clue how to measure the degree of runout.

For the work I've done so far, runout is virtually irrelevant, but I'd like to know where I stand just in case.

Help appreciated-

Bob


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

Most will have some run out..the higher ends one will have it also..but you should not see it will your eye...

Here's a quick way to check it, clamp a true square to the table top,,,move it right next to the chuck, move the belt and you should not see any light ..if you do check to make sure the chuck is set right..,,,chuck,,, when it's off the machine do the same thing (check the harbor shaft), it should be dead on..many don't get the chuck set right..the 1st.time..

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thistlefly said:


> Well now. I _finally_ got to assembling and using my Sears drill press (thanks, BobJ!), and have a question: As I observe the rotating chuck, visually it seems that I see at least some runout... but I have no clue how to measure the degree of runout.
> 
> For the work I've done so far, runout is virtually irrelevant, but I'd like to know where I stand just in case.
> 
> ...


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

OK, thanks.

Now the next newbee question: What is the recommended way to get the chuck off the arbor (and/or the arbor out of the drill press)?

It's one thing to whang it ONto the arbor, quite another to figure the best way to gently "unwhang" it OFF the arbor!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

Some have a hex nut just above the chuck that will drive off the chuck but many have a chuck key that go's into the quiil,you should see a slot in the quill that the key will fit right in and drive the arbor out.

Once you have it off,open the drill chuck all the way and with a drive pin down the center of the drill chuck and with a sharp tap it should come right out and off...


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thistlefly said:


> OK, thanks.
> 
> Now the next newbee question: What is the recommended way to get the chuck off the arbor (and/or the arbor out of the drill press)?
> 
> It's one thing to whang it ONto the arbor, quite another to figure the best way to gently "unwhang" it OFF the arbor!


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

Hey Bob, my drill press is the exact same model as yours... bought on your recommendation. 

It came with what they call a "chuck tool," a tapered steel thang about 1/4" thick, but no directions on how to use it. Does that sound familiar?

Thanks-

Bob


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

Yep,that's the tool  to remove the chuck and arbor ..

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thistlefly said:


> Hey Bob, my drill press is the exact same model as yours... bought on your recommendation.
> 
> It came with what they call a "chuck tool," a tapered steel thang about 1/4" thick, but no directions on how to use it. Does that sound familiar?
> 
> ...


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

thistlefly said:


> It came with what they call a "chuck tool," a tapered steel thang about 1/4" thick, but no directions on how to use it. Does that sound familiar?
> 
> Thanks-
> 
> Bob


It should fit between the top of the chuck and the full diameter of the drive shaft. A sharp tap with a hammer should break the jarno taper that holds the chuck on the shaft and release the chuck. Always make sure both mating surfaces are completely clean before replacing the chuck as the slightest thing will leave you vulnerable to the chuck coming off.

Cheers

Peter


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Also, be ready to catch the chuck when it suddenly releases... or you'll be lucky to catch it. Now how would I know that? <g>


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Picked up the Ridgid a few months ago, have used it a fair amount and am happy with it.


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

OK, people. I'm missing something here; I've attached pictures of the "chuck tool" and the pertinent section of my chuck and drill press.

I can fit the tool between the chuck and the body of the drill press above it, vertically with the slant adding leverage... but there is precious little purchase, and when I tap the tool, it chatters its way out more than exerting force between the chuck and the drill press body.

Is this the right idea, and I simply need to persist, or does it sound like I've got the wrong idea of what to do?

Thanks!

Bob


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## paininthe (Jun 22, 2009)

Wind down the drill shaft (as if drilling) about 6" above the bottom of the chuck there should be a slot. Through that slot you should be able to to see the top of the taper. You put your tool through there and give it a tap. That is all it should need.


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## paininthe (Jun 22, 2009)

Picture paints etc.


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## paininthe (Jun 22, 2009)

paininthe said:


> Wind down the drill shaft (as if drilling) about 6" above the bottom of the chuck there should be a slot. Through that slot you should be able to to see the top of the taper. You put your tool through there and give it a tap. That is all it should need.


You may need to spin the shaft to see it.

Can't find edit!


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hmm. The drift you have is not the fork type I'd thought you had.

Paul is right. That drift works for driving a taper out when you have a slot in the spindle. I don't think all the cheaper drill presses have the slot.


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

Thanks, Paul... that's the missing bit of info! Now that I see that it is SO intuitive, no WONDER they didn't include that in the manual.  (And yes, my DP does have this slot.)

I will look forward to getting the chuck off and having another go at installing it... without the sense of bafflement which made it an annoying task before. :dance3:

Thanks to all for responding-

Bob


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

Small tip, b/4 you take it out put a rag or two on the table top, you don't want it to drop dead on the top..put the key in place and with a soft face/brass hammer, put your hand right under the chuck and hit the key with a sharp blow,,the chuck will just drop in your hand..it may take more than one blow to get it out..


============


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## thistlefly (Dec 2, 2008)

Thanks to all for getting me the info that wasn't in the manual. I finally had a task that needed the drill press again, and had the chuck and arbor off and back on in ten minutes... and now I know the drill (sorry!:jester for future use. 

Bob


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