# Blue Hawk Router/Table Model #: 7337



## Robh22 (Oct 26, 2014)

Hi everyone.  I'm new to the forum and new to routing. I'm a scrollsaw artist, but I wanted to get a router to make the bases for my projects a bit nicer. I was not sure I would like routing or that I would even be any good at it. So I picked up the router/table combo above on sale, just to check things out. 

Hasn't gone very well, as no matter what I do, after I installed the router, the bits are way to low to even poke up enough through the hole in the table. While it's a plunge router, I have even tried pushing the router all the way with the plunge option (I am not explaining this well. :/) but the bits still don't come out of the top of the table enough. I tried removing the small base on the router, that adds about 1/8 of an inch, but still it is not enough. :sad:

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, but it's frustrating as I can not use the router as it is now. I know I could use it free hand, but I would really prefer to use it on the table to make it easier for me for what I want to do with it. Can anyone help me with what I'm doing wrong? I would really appreciate it as I'm ready to pull my hair out.

Thanks
Rob


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

check to see if the depth stop on the router's base is disengaged...


----------



## phillip.c (Aug 9, 2012)

Sometimes there are rough adjustments that one must set before you can dial in a fine adjustment. 

On my plunge router, however, the rough adjustment is simply where the plunge base clamps down on the cylindrical body of the router. If you allow the router body to sit deeper into the plunge base before clamping it in place, you will have more plunge depth.


----------



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Would a muscle Chuck help in this case guys? Although seeing as it's a combo setup it should work regardless no? I wonder if Stick has found the solution . Sometimes the simplest things are the solution  I always overthink when I come to a road block


----------



## Robh22 (Oct 26, 2014)

Yup checked that.  It is disengaged.

"...On my plunge router, however, the rough adjustment is simply where the plunge base clamps down on the cylindrical body of the router. If you allow the router body to sit deeper into the plunge base before clamping it in place, you will have more plunge depth...."

I am not sure I have what you are saying right, but I have the router pushed down as far as it will go into the base. :/ Is that what you mean?

A muscle chuck?

Sorry I have no knowledge of routers really as I'm just learning, sorry for all the questions.


----------



## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You should be able to sit the router on a bench top without a bit in it and the collet nut should touch the bench when you plunge. It's either something really simple or the router is defective. I can't see it being a problem with the plunge on a new router. Keep looking.


----------



## Robh22 (Oct 26, 2014)

I will try this in the morning. If it doesn't touch the table, does that mean it's defective? I know I'm probably doing something really wrong. lol.


----------



## john60 (Aug 30, 2014)

Blue Hawk 1.75 HP Variable Speed Plunge Corded Router - YouTube
See if this viedo helps


----------



## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

If you can return it and get credit toward a Bosch, I suggest you do so. Lowes is usually pretty good about returs. The Bosch isn't likely to fit in the table (The table in particular got a very poor review on Lumberjocks). But you can build a really nice table surface and fence for next to nothing. There are lots of discussions of that on this site. 

The Bosch 1617ESVPK kit is about $200 on Amazon, and comes with both a fixed and plunge base. The fixed base can be used as a lift that allows you to adjust the bit height from above the table. This is really the way to go if you value your knees. You have to order a certain key for that, but it really does a nice job. You'll find a lot of Bosch fans here. There are other brands that are very good as well, but with tools, cheap is generally not going to be a pleasure to use, nor to be very precise. Let us know what you decide to do.


----------



## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

how's this w/ free shipping and no tax...

http://www.cpooutlets.com/reconditi...ers,default,sc.html?prefn1=brand&prefv1=Bosch


----------



## Robh22 (Oct 26, 2014)

Thank you for the video John60! I haven't been able to get back to testing the possible thousand things I am doing wrong with the router, as I'm physically disabled and there are times days and days when I can not get out of bed. 

At the moment I really can not exchange it for a better one as I'm in the midst of saving up for my dream scroll saw, the DeWalt. Since I use the scroll saw 99% of the time and would be using the router 1% of the time, I need to go with saving for the scroll saw as it's my bread and butter at the moment. I just want to see if I actually suck at using a router or not. And if I can actually use it so that something I make doesn't look like a nightmare version of tinker toys I will save up and get a better one. 

The Bosch sounds like a very nice router and I will look into that one after I purchase my new scroll saw. (my current one is held together by 15 pounds of duct tape  ) And since the Bosch is 200 bucks, that is half the price of the DeWalt I want to get. 

As soon as I can actually stand up at a semi straight line, I will try all the different things mentioned for the router I have. As I mentioned, I will be using the it mostly for the round over bits and fancy edges for the bases of the objects I scroll saw. (If I can figure out how and they don't look like a mess)

I want to thank you guys(gals too) for the help you've given me so far. I really do appreciate it.  I'm hoping this week I will be able to move the saw (it's been attached to the table so it's a bit heavier to move) and try out the different things suggested. 

Thank you again. I will give a shout out when I figure out what I'm screwing up at lol. 

:blink:


----------



## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

I am sure you will get it sorted.

And never be afraid to ask questions. Lots of great guys on this forum who are willing to help.


----------



## Doug A (Nov 1, 2014)

My first router table was a metal screw together Craftsman, with a Craftsman 1/4 router. Guess I didn't know any better, but that was in about 1977. I didn't know they were crappy tools, so I built a chest of drawers, dining room table, two night stands, numerous coffee tables, a chair for my son, and a few book cases. Nice tools are great to have, but need and ingenuity, can usually make up for poor tool quality. Oh yeah, I didn't know that plastic handled Stanley chisels were junk, but they were part of the journey too.


----------



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

@Chefman22 - I am going to take a wild guess at your problem. I am not sure, but plunge routers usually have a turret that allows the operator to preset the desired depth of cut. That way you can make a couple of cuts using the other parts of the turret. Each time you rotate the turret, you will be able to plunge the router deeper.

I think the turret is in a position preventing you to plunge fully. Also, there may be a depth adjustment rod that can be adjusted and clamped in position by a thumbscrew or something similar.

Take a close look and I bet you will find the problem. You will need to get familiar with those adjustments before you can use the router properly.

Note: I tried to watch that video but all I got was dizzy! 

Good news! I found the router table/router on Lowe's website.
Check out the pics. I think what I described above may be the problem.
Loosen the *thumbscrew *and move the adjustment rod away from the turret. Rotate the *turret *to its lowest (shallowest) setting.

Hopefully that will get you back in business.

Good luck.
Mike


----------

