# New Router



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hey Guys,
This is my first post so I hope I'm doing this right...
Any way, I just ordered the new Triton 2 1/4 HP Plunge Router for $209.99 from WoodCraft and I was just wondering about any pros or cons on this router. I did some research on the net and in the stores on all kinds of routers and this seemed like one of the better deals for the money. Was I right?


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

Hi George. If it's the same model as mine - the TRA001 - you've got a good machine in my humble (and not so experienced) opinion. I like the built-in lift feature that allows the collet to be raised above the table for bit changing although you can get an above table lifter if you need it. You got it for a good price too. Here in NZ mine cost me the equivalent of US$360.00. It's a powerful machine and does everything I've asked of it so far. Lots of other good features too such as the safety lock to prevent collet raising unless switch is 'off' and self-locking collet for bit changing. All together a good piece of equipment. Enjoy.


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## Maurice (Sep 24, 2004)

Welcome to the forum.
I have a 3 1/4 hp Triton and it's a bit heavy but one humdinger of a machine. 
I got it at Busy Bee tools Toronto for $299. on sale.
It makes good company in my table with my DeWalt 621


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Thanks for the comeback Geordie,
I ordered the model MOF001 which comes with an extended base, fence, circle cutter and a set of 6 bushes. I believe it has all the features as your TRA001 as well. I read somewhere about a base attachment to accept bushes for the PC. Do you know anthing about that or are they compatable straight off?


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

Sorry George, the PC is an unknown beast down here at the bottom of the world so I can't comment on compatability. Hopefully one of the other (local) guys can answer that one.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The TRA001 is a 3-1/4 HP machine, the TRA001A is a 2-1/4 HP machine. This makes for a big difference in price.
George, you bought a quality router and should be very happy with it. There is no "one size fits all" in the world of routers. Most major name brands perform well, and they all feel different in your hands.


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## Seven (Nov 12, 2006)

Maurice said:


> I have a 3 1/4 hp Triton...


3 1/4 hp? Dang! That's more hp than my daughter's go-kart.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

CV, the Hitachi M12V and the PC 7518 are also 3-1/4 HP routers, at least this is how they are rated. This size is best used table mounted as they are tough to hang on to.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

I received the new router and she is a beaut. It has 7 bushings, an adjustment rod for thru the table adjustments, a base extension, circle cutter, fence and a 1/2 inch straight bit.
I am now in the planning stages of building a router table for it. I already had a good base built and bought a Rousseau base plate so now all I have to do is figure out what I want the top to have on it and what the fence should look like. Does anyone have a good fence plan or know of a link to one?


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

George, sounds like you got a good deal with all those bushings included. I know the guys will help you with a table plan but there's one feature of the Triton table I bought with the router that I really like and would be easy to build-in to a home made table. The MDF faces on the fence are spring loaded so, not only do they slide laterally to open/close the gap around the bit, you can also insert shims between the face and the fence to push the outfeed face proud of the infeed when you use the router as a jointer like I often do. (Hope I'm not breaching any copyright!).


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hey Geordie, Thanks for the idea. I don't have a jointer and use my bench top router table for jointing now. The problem is it is a cheepie and not too accurate. Maybe I can include your suggestion into the new table.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

George, there are many postings on fences. Look through them and you will find one you like. Did you purchase the template for installing your Rousseau plate? Or the installation kit for centering your router on the plate? Both are great time savers.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

I did get the centering kit but not the template. I figured to use the four boards around the plate method to plunge route it out with a bushing and an up cut spiral bit... that is unless somebody knows of a beter (read easier) way without having to buy the template. Us cheapskates are always looking for a cheaper/easier way.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI George 

Take a look at the link below 
You have it down how to put it in but this may help a bit.


Making A Recess Template
http://www.routerworkshop.com/recesstemplate.html

Bj


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Thanks BJ,
That looks like just what I needed. Thanks to all of you for your help and intrest in my little project. If it turns out half decent I will post pics.

Mike, it turns out that I bought the wrong centering kit for my router so I will have to take it back for the right one. Just in case anyone is looking to buy one be sure you are getting the right one for your router.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I realize it seems like a lot of money for the template, but when you consider that it comes with the neat 2 part guide bushing it seems more reasonable. Since most plates use the same size support ledge this bushing will be used more than once, nobody can build just one...  You may wish to build one of the portable tables and installing window glass can be done with this unique bushing as well.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Mike,
I broke down and bought the template today when I took the centering kit back and, wouldn't you know it, they were out of the kit I needed so I will have to go back and pick it up when it comes in. Seems like there is always something.... :-(


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

George, time for a secret. A visit to your local hardware store will provide the needed screws to allow any kit to work with your router for under $2. This means after you mount your router and a friend asks you to do his you need only purchase the additional set screws and mounting screws. I have long sung the praises of how quick and easy the template kit gets you installed and routing. I am looking forward to feedback from you on this.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Thanks for the tip Mike. Will do on the feedback. My only problem now is getting my shop (garage) warm enough to work with the contact cement and laminates. The directions say 65 or above for at least 24 hrs prior to use.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hey Mike, here's some pics of the table. The table top is 24"X46"X1 1/4" MDF laminated on top and bottom. I will put a hardwood trim around the edge of the top. The extra space to the right of the router will be used as extra work space for freehand routing or drill press. The cabinet is pine with birch ply panel sides. I used pocket screws to put it together. 
Attach. 1 shows the template set and the hole routed and you were right the template made it sooo much easier.
Attach. 2 is with the router mounted... again you were right on with the centering kit. It made drilling the base plate a simple procedure.
Attach. 3 is the finished base plate. Now all I have to do is finish the base cabinet and trim. I still haven't decided on a fence yet.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Nice job George. Next table wrap your core with hardwood before laminating and extend the laminate over the hardwood. You can follow this up by chamfering the edge for a super clean look. One simple fence is shown in the following PDF file. This type of fence with a sacrificial face is quick and easy. A more complex fence has sliding faces which need replacing a lot less. Which ever way you go cut a small chamfer on the bottom front edge to help eliminate dust build up.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Thanks Mike. I wish I had thought about the trim before laminating... next time I guess. Maybe if I am real good Santa might bring me the new Incra LS Positioner. ;-)


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## BOB 2 (Jul 20, 2006)

curiousgeorge said:


> Hey Guys,
> This is my first post so I hope I'm doing this right...
> Any way, I just ordered the new Triton 2 1/4 HP Plunge Router for $209.99 from WoodCraft and I was just wondering about any pros or cons on this router. I did some research on the net and in the stores on all kinds of routers and this seemed like one of the better deals for the money. Was I right?


I think you made very educated choice for a newby.
Triton has some of the best inovations in routers on the market right now.
I am sure you are going to enjoy your decision well into the future.
there are several good choices out there but I would buy Triton agian given the same line up.
p.s.I have 7 routers that span 40 years. 

Don't make me an expert but does give me some insight.  

Now, pay attention to Pop here, He's done most everything that you can do with router and Rick, he's no slouch either!
you can learn more here in 2 weeks than you can in the next five years.

Cheers adnd Merry x-mas if you are of the persuasion.
Bob


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Thanks for the compliment Bob. So far I am very pleased with the router. What I really like is the system for attaching the bushings. It seems to me that attaching them with screws is a lot safer than threaded rings... less chance of them coming off.
A Merry Christmas to you and to all who read this post.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Bosch used to use screws to attach their guide bushings, then they switched to a quick release mechanism where you slide a lever to lock/unlock. They had the foresight to include an adapter plate so PC style bushings could be used as well. Brass bushings tend to stay tight, the unscrewing problem is mostly with steel bushings.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

aniceone2hold said:


> Bosch used to use screws to attach their guide bushings, then they switched to a quick release mechanism where you slide a lever to lock/unlock. They had the foresight to include an adapter plate so PC style bushings could be used as well. Brass bushings tend to stay tight, the unscrewing problem is mostly with steel bushings.


 The Triton 2 1/4 has the PC adapter plate as well and an adapter for table mounted use of the Triton bushings. It also comes with a through the table Micro height adjustment crank that adjusts as little as 1/128th. It has a button on the handle to switch from free plunge to handle winder plunge. The handle winder plunge is adjusted by depressing a ring on the back of the handle to raise or lower the cutter to the desired depth by turning the handle, release the ring and the depth is locked at that position. Then lock the plunge lever. The Micro adjuster works in the handle winder mode. The collet extends above the table and is locked when in full plunge to allow bit changes above the table. The power switch is illuminated when connected to a power source in both on and off positions and when turned off a safety shield slides over the switch to prevent accidental flipping of the switch. It also came with 1/4 and 1/2 collets, wrench, extended base plate, fence, 7 bushings, circle cutting jig and last but not least a 1/2" straight bit (1/2" shank). All in all quite a few bells and whistles.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

No question that the Triton is a quality tool. The only drawback is the time to switch from table mounted to free hand routing. In this area any of the combo kits are much faster.
George, as far as the 1/128th adjustment goes; if a sparrow craps in your yard it will change the humidity enough to account for that 1/128th of an inch. My point being wood moves, expanding and contracting so the ability to make such a fine adjustment is overkill. Nice to know they spent the time to build it in though.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

No problem on switching. I have another router. I liked the sparrow analogy tho... and I agree about the wood movement.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

I solved the question on what kind of fence I wanted. I found a cheaper version of the Incra TS at Rockler. It's the Incra Universal Precision Positioning Jig made for Rockler. You can buy the jig alone for 59.99 (on sale now for 49.99) and make your own fence or the combo package that includes the fence, stop block and right angle fixture for 99.99. It does Thru, blind, sliding and double dovetails as well as box joints. If anyone is interested the url is:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=11494

The attached pics show it on my as yet unfinished table. :sold:


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Just ordered the Incra setup today.. Going to have to make a new RT for it.. Good reason to go all out and make the table/cabinet I really want..


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Mike, I think you will like the positioning system. You can do the same things with it as with the newest ($350) Incra LS system, it's just not as fancy. If you want to do any of the "fancy" joinery you will have to purchase the "Master Reference Guide Book" to get the extra templates for them. They sell it at Rockler also.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I received mine today.... pretty sweet. I think the Gifkin will be better for thru dovetails but it looks pretty cool for blind and those cool cornerpost dt's. 

Corey


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

challagan said:


> I received mine today.... pretty sweet. I think the Gifkin will be better for thru dovetails but it looks pretty cool for blind and those cool cornerpost dt's.
> 
> Corey


Corey, that's great! You are probably right about the Gifkin, but you can do tons of other joints with this thing if you have the templates. The "Master Guide Book" I mentioned in the previous post is actually for the expensive LS system but can be used in yours. All you have to do is shorten the templates to fit.

By the way, I used a piece of birch ply to make the base for mine with F-clamps to hold it down, but you can use anything you want. If you check on the Rockler site they have it fixed up with T-bolts and channels on the table. Fancy or basic, what ever you like.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Thanks George. Yes, I will want to get that library of templates eventually. I bought a real nice piece of Birch ply mdf core that I will set the base on and my router table has the slots in it so I will be able to use the Tbolts and knobs. I am looking forward to trying this out but it looks pretty cool! 

The reason I say that about the through dt's is because you have to find the depth of cut and then once you find the perfect fit you should plane your boards down to equal that depth of cut, not raise the bit to the thickness of the stock. I don' t have a planer or jointer so I don't think that will work for me but plenty of variations of joints! It looked to me like the double DT or double double are all variations of the blind dt's so that is neat! 

For the price $59.00 you just can't beat the jig, fence, stop block and right angle jig! 

Corey


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

George, I received it and watched the DVD etc. and what a cool tool and some real neat joints. Unfortuantely I have realized that it will not work on my set up. It needs much much more depth on the table to work properly. Pretty bummed about it but I just can't store a larger router table or at least one that this needs to work properly. Back she goes!

Corey


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

That's one very nice looking router table George, it looks too good to use. I do of course expect to see shots of it in use.


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## snickers (Aug 16, 2007)

*new router*

I have D-link DIR 655 home...I'ts perfect


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

*Different kind of Router*



snickers said:


> I have D-link DIR 655 home...I'ts perfect


snickers, I think you will find this is a "woodworking type of router forum".
We are all woodworkers here to some degree and use routers that create sawdust.


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