# Harebrained idea??????



## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Just looking at the new larger Shark on Rockler's site. I already got the Probotix Nebula, BUT, I was wondering - how difficult (or even possible) would it be to put that bed, with all the channels for clamps, on my machine? Don't even know if you can buy the bed separate or what it costs.

Another question. Does anybody, that you know of, make that type of material in a sheet that can be cut to size? That would also make a heckuva work table for routing, sanding, and finishing.

Gotta be downside to this someplace, or it would be out there someplace.

HJ

iddy biddy brain thinks sometimes


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## Scottart (Jan 8, 2015)

GO to CNCrouterparts.com

They sell this stuff in rows and sheets up to 8' long. I see that the Next Wave automation ( the shark folks) also sell that slotted table as a separate item.


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

The potential cutting area of the Meteor and Nebula is longer and wider than they advertised. I get 52.5" of travel in the Y direction after making a few edits to the .INI file for the software. 

My point is that you'll want the t-track to be longer than the cutting area just to be sure you can put clamps on the ends of a 48" board. On the machines I've made bases and t-track beds for I bought 48" lengths of t-track, but split them in the middle to spread and reach 54" or so end to end. Rarely clamp in the middle anyway. 

The t-track Nextwave is selling with their latest model is a custom extrusion that interlocks between pieces. This solves a major problem their original track beds had when clamping across sections. This track is double-sided, and normally held down by bolts slid into the bottom side. No screw holes though the top. 

What NextWave uses on the extended shark is 62" long by 28.5" wide. It could almost be a replacement for the MDF top on a Meteor, but it won't be as wide as a Nebula. Buying two tops to get enough for one Nebula would be very expensive. 

4D


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Couldn't find the T slot stuff on CNC routerparts site - - - but did anybody check out 80/20? Looks like they have T-slot strips 1.2.3 and 4 slots wide, as well as the connectors to put all kinds of configurations together.

My bed is 40 x 60". Can I get by with all lengthwise rails or should there be some cross rails in there too? If they work with the Rockler clamps and stops, this could turn into something.

HJ

The internet is dangerous in the wrong hands


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

Aluminum strength/stiffness varies depending on the type used. You'll have to ask the manufactures how far any extrusion can span with no detrimental sag or deflection when a bit plunges down. I've seen even the beds I've configured with t-track on MDF on plywood side strips bow down when we start a run and have forgotten to turn the router on. Usually doesn't break the bit, which makes a choice for CNC bed material even harder. Would you rather break a bit or have the bed bend a bit in those instances?

I'm mostly satisfied with how I've configured the beds on our Probotix CNCs. Clamping is easy for most pieces of material. The only challenge comes when a students wants to cut a profile close to the edges of their starting piece, and there isn't any room to put a clamp on any edge. We dig out the tape in those cases. 

4D


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

One thing to consider is your z height will be reduced a little bit because of the added thickness of the aluminum extrusion. If that is not a problem then it would be a good addition to your machine. If you will be cutting through your project then you can use a 1/4" or 1/2" spoil board on top of the t-track.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Would I put the track right on top of the MDF bed already there or pull it off and just put the T-track on as a new bed?

I got some Rockler T-track but it'll take a bunch it to do the whole bed at 3/4 wide strips.

HJ

Still looking at the 8020dotnet stuff -- don't know if Rockler clamps will fit their track


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## MEBCWD (Jan 14, 2012)

John,

The bed on the Shark (the old blue bed) is made from 8 - 3" and 2 - 2 1/4" Rockler Multi Tracks. Multi Track for Jigs and Custom Fences-Multi Track - Rockler Woodworking Tools

This multi track is stiffer than individual t-track but they still had problems with the beds when clamping across the bed from one piece of multi track to another. I solved the problem by adding aluminium angles under the bed.

To install a new bed I would remove the mdf and mount the new rails to aluminum angle.


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

Just a warning about using clamps in t-track on the Nebula/Meteor/etc.: The Router mount goes up and down with the router and the bottom of it can knock into or come down on those clamps or the bolt ends when they are holding down the back edge of your project boards. Mount the router lower and you lose Z-travel. I've made some low-profile clamps from Hardwood scraps and plywood that my students use when they bump into this problem. And two clamps is rarely enough to hold work down while CNCing it. The track surface is more slippery than the MDF surface, and parts can slide under the style of clamps shown above. Photos are of the initial prototype I made from beech. 

4D


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

This is 5 - 4' strips of Rockler T-track, clamps, and stops (almost $300 after the 15% discount). I think they are close enough that cross tracks shouldn't be necessary, and eliminating the need to cut the track. Hopefully, this'll work while I'm still "training." 

My intentions are to make a totally new bed out of track from 80/20, if it's compatible with Rockler stuff, and reuse this track to make a work table that will use Rockler clamps, cookies, and finishing points. Or, if this works ok, I can just add more Rockler T-track.

Hope this works for a while cause this stuff ain't cheap. I'll either have to save up and figure it all out or make several orders and have a "work in progress." 

Will try and test it out today or tomorrow.

HJ

Becoming technician, nerd, and now engineer - my own company was easier than this to operate


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

It works, kind of. Putting too much pressure on the clamps pulls the track out of the MDF.

4D, I see what you mean about watching the clamps so the axis and spindle doesn't hit them while it's in it's travels. The stop blocks seem to work the best, but then I need some cross track, too. The arms of the hold down clamps stay under the spindle. Just have to make sure the screw down handle is clear. Same with the pressure clamps. The handles are definitely too high and have to be watched carefully.

I still see a track bed in the near future.

HJ

decisions decisions


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## 4DThinker (Feb 16, 2014)

I did the same thing, only in a different pattern when I first set up my Meteor. I had the CNC route slots for t-track sections and then screwed the t-track into those slots. Too tight on the clamps would rip screws out of the MDF. On my recent re-design I've put a single screw into the t-track sections (to nail them in place), then bolted down (using nylon bolts into brass threaded inserts) MDF strips with a notch cut to cover the top flange of the track. Tight clamps bear down on the MDF which resists the bolt pulling up on the track.

If you'd like the file to cut out the low profile clamps I posted above let me know. You'll need a short flange bolt and a low profile handle. 

4D


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

You can just trace it and email me an attachment. Or, let me know what the approx. length is. I can use the pattern from one of my push stick ends, glue a couple pieces of oak, cherry, or maple together (which is better?) and whack a few out with the bandsaw. Rockler has the bolts and handles. Heck, I couldn't transfer a file from my computer to the flash drive if my life depended on it. 

Found out 8020 takes only 1/4 inch bolts in their track, but they have the 5' lengths. Rockler's multi-tracks are only 2 or 3 feet long. I would have to get 1/4" bolts and handles to use their clamps, which isn't that big a deal if needed. 8020 also has connectors to make a complete bed, while I would have to use 1/4" bolts in a aluminum or steel strip to make a bed, which isn't too difficult. Any reason I couldn't just drill the holes out on the track I got and put a skinny bolt in with a nut and washer underneath?

Guess I'll just figure out everything I need from both and flip a coin or something if the prices are close. Then start counting pennies.

Another "bright" idea just popped in my head. Run an aluminum or steel strip underneath, drill right thru the screw hole - - flat head bolt with a nut on the bottom. About every foot or so run a metal strip across. If that pulls thru the MDF - then we go steal Scottart's machine.

HJ

Trucks better than he engineers


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## Eldon Triggs (Feb 29, 2012)

I have used both of the beds on the Shark, the blue non-interlocking and the black interlocking aluminum. Get the black interlocking aluminum! It is 1000x better when you clamp down. The blue extrusions are not interlocking and are similar to 80/20. Unless you bolt the pieces together across the width, the aluminum will flex where you have clamps positioned. The black interlocking aluminum does not do that. There is no need to put reinforcements under the elbow clamps.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

Do they sell the black interlocking stuff separately?

HJ


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