# Wet Sanding



## wilskek (Sep 21, 2011)

I assume this is a basic question, but what procedures do you do for wet sanding? is there a certain grit you use?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

wilskek said:


> I assume this is a basic question, but what procedures do you do for wet sanding? is there a certain grit you use?


I can only speak for turned wood pens treated with several layers of CA glue. Dry sand to about 400 grit then, using micro-mesh start wet sanding through the grits from 1500 and stopping when the finish that you require has been achieved, going all the way to 12000 gives a finish to die for!


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## mailee (Nov 11, 2005)

Wow! Harry, your pens must glisten in the sun mate! I didn't even know you could get abrasive of 12000 grit? 
For my input I can only relate to my type of work when I use wet sanding which is painted MDF. After the final coats of to coat are applied and hard I use 1000 grit wet n dry used wet with some soapy water to flatten the surface. If there are any large particles in the finish I would use 800 grit on these areas only. Then buff the finish with a machine polisher and a medium paste to acheive a high gloss. Of course if it is a satin look I want then just a light polishing by hand. HTH.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Not knowing what you are wanting to wet sand I'll assume the finish has already been applied & dry. You would not want to wet sand bare wood before the finish. You could really start wet sanding at any grit using a wet n dry sandpaper. But I wouldn't start to course you might sand thru the finish to bare wood. Keep the paper wet this will help keep it clean. You could sand different directions with each grit then finish up with the grain on final grit.

I like Harry the only time I really wet sand something these days are the pens. But I approach a little different. After CA is applied I start wet sanding at 600gr then thru the micro mesh all the way to 12000. I use a spray bottle of plain water to keep it wet. Then a quick hit with my Barry Gross system buffing wheels.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The reason for using Micromesh pads is to get optical clarity with your finish. You can use them on bare wood and the result is amazing. Redheart pens really show off the grain detail when done this way. Yellowheart almost seems to have built in shine when polished with Micromesh.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

I'm sure that you mean DRY sanding on bare wood Mike.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Yes Harry but then I apply several coats of finnish and the Micromesh makes it like glass. When using Micromesh on bare wood it loads up quickly with dust. I have found that wiping it on a piece of denim works great for clearing the pad.(I use my pant leg for this) It is worth having two sets of Micromesh; one for wet and one for dry use.


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## wilskek (Sep 21, 2011)

Thanks all...I put stain on the coin holder I was making and I wanted to sand it down to get a better finish on it. I will try your suggestions and see where it goes from there. Again thank you all, I have a bit of a learning curve to push through.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

wilskek said:


> Thanks all...I put stain on the coin holder I was making and I wanted to sand it down to get a better finish on it. I will try your suggestions and see where it goes from there. Again thank you all, I have a bit of a learning curve to push through.


I would not sand it after you applied stain until clear coat is applied. I usually apply 2 coats of sanding sealer after stain, lightly sand with 320 between coats just enough to remove any grain raising & dust nibs. Then apply clear coats doing same with the 320 between coats. I usually do not sand the final coat of clear. By then it should be flat & smooth, but you can buff it out further if you wish. I think you would need more than 1 coat of clear because you could sand or buff thru it. It really is easier & goes quicker than explained. I prefer to spray my sanding sealer & clear finishes on. I'm sure others will chime in on their finishing schedule.


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