# Fast Router Bit for Deep Mortice



## neek0la (Dec 17, 2012)

Hey guys. 
I use a door jig to trench out a doors to fit in a mortice lock. Basically 130mm deep x 120mm or so high, 19mm diameter.
The problem is, it feels like it takes too long using a straight cutter. I would like to experiment using another type of cutter, i believe that if i was to use a v grooving bit, it would be faster. What do you guys think? am i wrong in assuming this?


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

neek0la said:


> Hey guys.
> I use a door jig to trench out a doors to fit in a mortice lock. Basically 130mm deep x 120mm or so high, 19mm diameter.
> The problem is, it feels like it takes too long using a straight cutter. I would like to experiment using another type of cutter, i believe that if i was to use a v grooving bit, it would be faster. What do you guys think? am i wrong in assuming this?


Just how long does it take you? I perform this task fifty to a hundred times a year (maybe more) with a jig and cutters and I can certainly do it faster than I can with a drill, auger bit and chisels (providing I'm doing two or more at a time). For the life of me I can't see how you'll get any usable depth at all with an off-the-shelf V-grooving bit, but maybe I'm missing something. What sort of kit are you using? Into what sort of doors? And how long since you last sharpened your cutters?

Regards

Phil


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## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

Routing to 120/130mm deep is a pretty deep hole.

Not sure how many router bits are that long. Have you considered a dedicated mortiser?


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

cagenuts said:


> Routing to 120/130mm deep is a pretty deep hole.
> 
> Not sure how many router bits are that long. Have you considered a dedicated mortiser?


Hi Hilton

Not many.....










The T2126-1/2 here can do that because it is 16mm diameter x 150mm long, but only if your router is big enough (i.e. 2000 watts), but you still need to start the cut off with another router and a shorter bit because that monster pokes out too far from the bottom of anything I've used to date.... Of course the other way might be to get a Souber DBB. or if you really habe money to burn a Virutex FC16. Fastest of all are the chain mortisers (Mafell. Makita) but they can't do the lock plate recess

BTW you can't really take a mortiser out on site with you for most installs!

Regards

Phil


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## cagenuts (May 8, 2010)

Ah yes I love Wealdon Tools. I've bought quite a few bits from them as they seem to stock some 'hard to find' items. I think I must buy that bit and get someone to bring it over.

Also like that Souber jig, pretty nifty indeed.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

cagenuts said:


> Ah yes I love Wealdon Tools. I've bought quite a few bits from them as they seem to stock some 'hard to find' items. I think I must buy that bit and get someone to bring it over.


To use that with a Trend jig you need to get someone to turn you up a 34mm guide bush rather than the standard 30mm which works with a 12mm bit (still waiting for mine). The 120mm long pockert hole bit cuts OK in softwood/chipboard core doors but less well in hardwood. Hardly surprising, really. I generally reckon on getting a mortise and lock plate recess done in 6 to 8 minutes (after setting-out) with the Trend jig using a DW625, although I tend to set-up a second router (DW622) and a shorter bit to handle the initial recess and starting off the lock body mortise because it saves a lot of time. Helps if you have a vac to clean ot the mortise, too

The Souber was invented by a locksmith and comes with some really naet accessories, like a very long bit for drilling through a door side to side (needed if you are installing electro-locks and want to hide the cables within the door). Not sure how long they'd last, though

Regards

Phil


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

neek0la said:


> Hey guys.
> I use a door jig to trench out a doors to fit in a mortice lock. Basically 130mm deep x 120mm or so high, 19mm diameter.
> The problem is, it feels like it takes too long using a straight cutter. I would like to experiment using another type of cutter, i believe that if i was to use a v grooving bit, it would be faster. What do you guys think? am i wrong in assuming this?


Welcome to the forum.

Which door jig are you using at the moment?


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## mgmine (Jan 16, 2012)

I haven't made deep mortises like the ones you are making however wouldn't it be easier on the router to remove the bulk with a spade bit and then clean it up with what ever you are using?


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

mgmine said:


> I haven't made deep mortises like the ones you are making however wouldn't it be easier on the router to remove the bulk with a spade bit and then clean it up with what ever you are using?


Hi Art

Personally, I find that just takes too long (at least on multiples), spade bits are often only just long enough (so you risk dinging the sides of the mortise with the drill chuck and damaging the door) and in addition there's always the possibility that you can blow a spade bit out of the side of the door if you are in a hurry! (Really! It happens to almost everyone at some time or another - fire doors with particle board cores can sometimes be nigh on impossible to drill straight). Auger bits are more accurate than spades, but almost as slow. If I need to use a drill and bits I tend to just get the chisels and hammer out and finish by hand. For two or more, though, the router is faster, more accurate and neater - but it does require a 2000 watt plunge router. Smaller tools and fixed base routers just can't hack it. Note that on a trade job you may have to cart your kit all over the building doing locks, and you have to work at a good pace (possibly 35 to 45 minutes to mortise a lock, side drill the door - often 5 holes a side, install the lock, handles and escutcheons then finally chop-out and fix the keeper in the casing and adjust as required), so you try to minimise the amount of kit you have on hand

Regards

Phil


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