# Oak Park Box Joint Jig update



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The Oak Park box joint jigs are simply put: the best on the market. Once you have used them you will want a set. Yes, there are many other brands and other methods for making box joints but these win hands down for ease of set up and use. There is one thing that improves them; these jigs were designed before the Vacuplate system and they block the vacuum port. I decided to open the port through the jigs to take advantage of the built in dust collection. I first removed the router from the base, and removed the vacuum channel from the underside of the table. Next I fastened a jig in place and flipped the table top over. You will notice the large black knobs I used in place of the standard wing nuts and washers. They are easier to work with. I used a permanent marker to layout the opening location. Then I flipped the table top right side up and removed the jig. I marked all 3 of my jigs (1/4", 3/8", and 1/2") There are several ways to cut the opening, a template and guide bushing would be simple enough. Holes could be drilled in the 4 corners and connected with a jig saw or router. I have access to a milling machine so I am making the openings with that. With the addition of the built in vacuum these jigs soar over any other method.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Mike, I agree... Those jigs are second to none the BEST way to make Box Joints!

It took me a long time studying all kinds of box joint jigs, etc.

Then, I started seeing how easy it was by watching The Router Workshop shows... I saw them on Sale... I got the whole set...

One of the best purchases I have ever made! :sold: :sold:   

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=842


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Great idea, Mike and thanks for sharing it. Looks like I have some modifications to make :sold:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike, good job,,,I agree as well ,,,OakPark Jigs are the best 

Here's just one more way to catch the chips from making box joints with the Oak-Park Box joint jigs if the user doesn't have the Oak-Park Vac.Port Base plate. 

You will see a long box in the background of the pictures below, that has a vac.pick screwed to the back side of the fixture.
It's a easy one to make with some 1/4" & 1/2" MDF stock.

It's just clamped down to the router table top so it can put in place or removed quick and easy.

Because most of the chips from making box joints going flying (shooting) out the back side of the box joint jig(s) ,the fixture will catch them and put them in the vac.system. (bag) I also use this same fixture on the RadioArmSaw ..

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/3616-deluxe-push-block-6134.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/3617-deluxe-push-block-6135.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachments/jigs-fixtures/3608-deluxe-push-block-6125.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/3543-deluxe-push-block.html?highlight=push+block

Bj


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Yup, I agree, the fences and the box joints are the best of Oak Park I think. Nice mod Mike. BJ, I think I have seen that before on your table and I liked it then and I like it now. I have to make one of these when I don't have anything else to do  And that push block is on my list as well! Nice work guys!

Corey


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## rgum (Oct 13, 2006)

*Hi*

Does this jig produce finger joints? A little dumb am I. Sorry. Is that the jig in the pics?  Can't tell looking at the photos.

Cheers Tony. Melbourne.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Yes Tony, it does make finger joints or Box joints as they are also known. In the second photo is the jig the way it is used. In the last photo it is turned upside down for that picture. You can view a short video here: http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--

Corey


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

rgum said:


> Does this jig produce finger joints? A little dumb am I. Sorry. Is that the jig in the pics?  Can't tell looking at the photos.
> 
> Cheers Tony. Melbourne.



Tony,

Yes, as Corey said, Boxjoints...

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=842

Those were my very first cuts making boxjoints using the Oak Park spacer fence jigs...

If this is what you want, it's the best, easiest, economical, wasy to do it... They are just plain G R E A T !!

You won't be sorry... you will be very happy...

Edit: Better yet, they're ON SALE again... now is the best time to get the set of 3 for a very good price!! Will be one of the best purchases you will ever make! (IMHO... it was for me.)


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I kept forgeting to post the photo of the finished modification. Here it is, ready for action.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

Mike said:


> I kept forgeting to post the photo of the finished modification. Here it is, ready for action.


What's that little rectangular hole for?

Is there one at the other end?

How is it different?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Joe, that hole is the modification for people who own the Vacu-Plate system. If you look at the second photo in my first post you will see the jig as it comes from the factory. It is next to the opening in the mounting plate that the sawdust is collected through. With the plate as it comes from the factory all the sawdust shoots off the end of the table. The modification of cutting the hole through the plate allows the Vacu-Plate to function and collect the majority of the sawdust.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

I bought the Vaccum system but I kind of unabled it the way I built the table. I need to take a brace off that I have underneath as it really isn't needed anyway. Just a pocket holed cross brace but it covers the mounting holes. 


Corey


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## dadsalmon (Sep 26, 2004)

These mods are great Mike and Bob. Two uniquely different approaches to the problems. Makes me wanna do some more box joints! Rich


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## JDługosz (Sep 10, 2007)

This thread caught my eye because it is marked "sticky".
Looking at it on its web page, I'm underwhelmed. How is this so superior than something you'd throw together when needed, other than being polyethylene instead of scrap plywood? 

Even using a $5 chunk of new UHMW-PE, it's easy: slice off a strip to serve as the upright; route a dado with the same bit used to make the box joint; stick the little strip into the dado.

I must be missing something, based on the commentary here. How is this any different/better than any other?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

There really isn't anything magic about it other than the fact that it is low cost, very accurately made out of quality material and does what is expected of it.
Let's face it, many products in the stores can be home made by those who prefer to do things themselves, but there are others who prefer to spend a few dollars for an item that gives a guaranteed result with no wasted time, like people working 12 hour days.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

JD, There are many jigs for making box joints. Yes, you could build this jig at home out of HDPE but I think it will cost you more than $5, after all your time is worth something. This jig is from The Router Workshop. It performs better than any other jig I have tried. The reason this thread is a sticky is because of the modification; cutting the openings for the Vac-U-plate system. This patented system installs under the mounting plate and does a very good job collecting most of the dust and swarf generated by routing. There is the added advantage that you are not fighting a dust collection hose over the table. The entire Router Workshop table seems very spartan when you first look at it. It is a well designed table with many accessories that install in seconds so you can spend your time routing instead of doing complicated set ups. I am a convert to this "Simple is better" approach to routing. If you have not seen the show, you can view The Router Workshop on www.thewoodworkingchannel.com


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## rthom1150 (Apr 4, 2008)

where do i find them and how much


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi rthom1150
Here's some links 


http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--&product=SF1030
http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--

===========


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## joebutler9876 (Apr 10, 2008)

*I love 'em*

Well, I got my Oak Park Spacer Jigs in this week. Tonight was the first time I had to play with them. All I can say is WOW! I love them already!!!

I too, didn't want to drill holes in my router table, so I took a piece of 1/2 MDF and made a "sled" for them to ride on. Seems to work great.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Real nice Joe and so easy to use.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Oak park Jigs*

Hi all.

I have seen these jigs in action (via video on the web) and agree that they appear great value for money. Simple and effective.

My only gripe is that Oak Park only seem to sell to US or Canadian addresses.


Does anyone know the reason for this.

Otherwise, I will have to buy some cutting boards and try and make my own.


James


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Joe that is one excellent idea. I wish I would have thought of that before I went drilling into my top.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

James, I am sure Oak Park would sell to you. The pricing is done in US and Canadian since the money is never the same. Call the 800 number and the girls will help you. Worst case, you could always visit HarrySin in WA and steal his two jigs...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"you could always visit HarrySin in WA and steal his two jigs... "

From now on I'm going to keep them in the safe, I couldn't live without my Oakpark box joint jigs.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Mike,

thanks for the tip.. this could be the excuse for that trip on the "Indian - Pacific"....
(like a trip from New York to LA to steal a $60 jig....

I did try to purchase the router workshop videos and was told they only ship to 
US or Canadian adresses.

HarrySin.

I presume you bought your jigs from Oak Park ?

James


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

jw2170 said:


> Mike,
> 
> HarrySin.
> 
> ...


LOL.... Harry don't buy jigs, he wins them in contests


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bob is half right, the 1/4" jig I won in the forum competition was kindly donated together with postage to Australia by non other than our latest moderator Bob Noles. I was so pleased with it that I arranged with one of the many friends that I have made since becoming a member to purchase a 3/8" jig and whilst he was at it I added all sorts of other goodies. Because my friend had an account with Oak park and once I knew the total cost incl. postage, I phoned Oak Park and had them deduct the amount from my Visa card and credit it to my friends account.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Shipping OS.....*

Harrysin



> Bob is half right, the 1/4" jig I won in the forum competition was kindly donated together with postage to Australia by non other than our latest moderator Bob Noles. I was so pleased with it that I arranged with one of the many friends that I have made since becoming a member to purchase a 3/8" jig and whilst he was at it I added all sorts of other goodies. Because my friend had an account with Oak park and once I knew the total cost incl. postage, I phoned Oak Park and had them deduct the amount from my Visa card and credit it to my friends account.


Did Oak park ship direct to you or via your friend? 



Rgds 
James


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

No, my good friend purchased all the items from various suppliers and posted them out to me after which he emailed me the total cost including freight.


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## AlanZ (Aug 21, 2008)

I received my box joint jigs today, and I have a question about orientation on the router table. I've got a CMT Industrio table, and I'm wondering if it's best to orient the long side of the jig parallel to the front of the table, or parallel to the sides of the table.

In the Oak Park videos, it appears that they orient parallel to the sides, pushing the workpiece away from the operator. Does this have any particular advantage over a right to left push? My table has a fence parallel to the front, and I could move it out of the way if necessary, but it's less to do if I orient the jig the same way as the fence.

I realize that it can obviously go either way... I'm just curious if anyone has strong opinions one way or another.

Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi AlanZ

I like it ,see below.. 
It's works best for me...

you can see many more snapshots in My Gallery, see link in the left hand side of this post

======


AlanZ said:


> I received my box joint jigs today, and I have a question about orientation on the router table. I've got a CMT Industrio table, and I'm wondering if it's best to orient the long side of the jig parallel to the front of the table, or parallel to the sides of the table.
> 
> In the Oak Park videos, it appears that they orient parallel to the sides, pushing the workpiece away from the operator. Does this have any particular advantage over a right to left push? My table has a fence parallel to the front, and I could move it out of the way if necessary, but it's less to do if I orient the jig the same way as the fence.
> 
> ...


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## AlanZ (Aug 21, 2008)

I can't quite tell from the photos above, did you drill a new hole for the router bit? 

On my table, if I bring the edge forward to the Tslot, the factory hole in the jig comes forward, so a new hole would be necessary.

Also, if I orient it the way you've shown, I might shorten the length of the jig so I don't have to remove the CMT fence from the table.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Alan

Yes I did drill a new hole for the bit,, I use the jig on many other router tables.
You will find out it's best to remove the fence and just to get it out of your way..I didn't want to drill any more holes in my top...that's way you see it in the tee track up front...

I guess you could cut it off but then it will only work on that one table...the longer the better, I wish it was about 10" longer...but it's not.

====



AlanZ said:


> I can't quite tell from the photos above, did you drill a new hole for the router bit?
> 
> On my table, if I bring the edge forward to the Tslot, the factory hole in the jig comes forward, so a new hole would be necessary.
> 
> Also, if I orient it the way you've shown, I might shorten the length of the jig so I don't have to remove the CMT fence from the table.


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## Belg (Nov 2, 2011)

Bob, couple questions from a rookie. First I can't tell how you use the same pushblock for all 3 sizes could you show this a little clearer plz? Also for what reason would you want the jig to be 10" longer, what operation would this allow you to do? Thanks Pat


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Pat

This Push block may not be the one for you ,,you can make your own very easy or just use a block of wood for a push block.. 

BUT
This may help , see link below

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/3543-deluxe-push-block.html

===



Belg said:


> Bob, couple questions from a rookie. First I can't tell how you use the same pushblock for all 3 sizes could you show this a little clearer plz? Also for what reason would you want the jig to be 10" longer, what operation would this allow you to do? Thanks Pat


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## woodmanz (Oct 31, 2011)

hi joe I just got my oak point jigs haven't had a chance to put the jig to use. thanks for the pictures, great way you set it up. I did not want to drill holes in my table. thanks the woodmanz.


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## gav (Oct 12, 2009)

Belg said:


> Bob, couple questions from a rookie. First I can't tell how you use the same pushblock for all 3 sizes could you show this a little clearer plz? Also for what reason would you want the jig to be 10" longer, what operation would this allow you to do? Thanks Pat


If you look at the link BJ provided you'll see that half of the base can slide, so as to reduce or increase the size of the slot that runs on the jigs 'track'.


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## Ed Fleming (Aug 29, 2008)

*Box Joints*

Two of these pictures are of my Strong Horizontal Router that I find makes really precise box joints, one is of hinges I make with it and the last is a fixture I made for a table saw, its copied from Matthais Wadel check him out Matthias Wandel's home page


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## leisurdaz (Apr 1, 2007)

Great job Mike


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## Leifs1 (Dec 16, 2009)

It is a shame that these jigs are not sold outside USA and Cananda. Also a shame that they are not in metric for us that live in EU. So I have started making my own. So far just one for 8 mm bit. 6 mm wil be next.
Any one else that have made there own and how ?
Regards Leif


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Lief, MLCS has a similar jig and they ship anywhere. I understand your frustration about metric not being available; metric items are hard to come by here. So much for a world standard.


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## Frank Lee (Nov 29, 2008)

Mike, with thought to 'D' ARE YOU FROM dETROIT ? Reason -- Iwas in Detroit as a youing man (17), Worked for the "Boblow Line" at their location at the ft of Woodward Ave. Just curious. Frank Lee, Kingman, Az.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Frank, I remember Captain Boblo and took many trips to the island. Born and raised here.


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## David+ES (Jan 3, 2011)

Mike,
Is the Oak Park box joint jig the same as the one from Woodline? They look about the same. Any comparison that you know of?


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## Leifs1 (Dec 16, 2009)

Mike said:


> Lief, MLCS has a similar jig and they ship anywhere. I understand your frustration about metric not being available; metric items are hard to come by here. So much for a world standard.


Well I made my own from Plexiglas I came over. 3mm plate for base and a strip from 8mm and one strip from 6mm. The strips were attached with 3mm countersunk bolts through the base and into treaded holes ind the strips. The 6mm I had to grind a little as it was 6,2 mm but it came out fine. I have teste the 6mm and it works fine and at a very low cost.
regards Leif


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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

*A question for owners/users of the Oak Park finger joint jig*

Hi all, I hope this thread is still going. After having watched the OP video on how to use this jig, (I don't own one), I have a question. On the video it appears the chap is holding the two pieces of timber freehand and just pushing it through freehand without any backing holders/pushers etc.

Firstly does this cause tear out at the rear of the cuts. And secondly is this the best way to use this jig or would one design some sort of a backing board/pusher, you know what I mean.

I also believe this jig is no longer available. 

I've recently purchased the Gifkin dovetail cutting jig. The chap who bought out Roger Gifkin's business now lives about 40kms (24 miles) from me. He gave me a two and a half hour demonstration of it at his house, very remarkable I must say.

I've also built my router table designed on the Gifkin router table, (photos on this site of my table), and I am now thinking it would suit perfectly also this OP finger joint jig. Just getting my thoughts together with a view of attempting to make one.

Any comments on my question,

Regards, Paul


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Pauls123 said:


> Hi all, I hope this thread is still going. After having watched the OP video on how to use this jig, (I don't own one), I have a question. On the video it appears the chap is holding the two pieces of timber freehand and just pushing it through freehand without any backing holders/pushers etc.
> 
> Firstly does this cause tear out at the rear of the cuts. And secondly is this the best way to use this jig or would one design some sort of a backing board/pusher, you know what I mean.
> 
> ...


I agree on the use of the Gifkins jig - not cheap but perfect cuts straight out of the box.

Gifkins also has templates for dovetail joints and box joints.

Where did you source you box timber? 

BJ3 has a top of the range jig for use with the Oak park jigs. If he does not elaborate - search his posts.....


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Paul

To start with the Gifkin jig is a great one but it has one down fall you are stuck with one patten ,that's to say it's fixed pattern template type like many are that's why I got the Katie type dovetail jig..

The chap in the video is a real pro.with the OP jig..and you will note he is using thin stock..and is not hardwood..

I did make a jig that will help with the rip out and it will let you use all the jigs with just one push block 1/4" to 1/2".
http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/3543-deluxe-push-block.html

But MLCS now is selling one just like the OP one and they give you push blocks for each size ,,1/4" to 1/2"

See it at the bottom of the link below plus videos also.
Multi-Joint Spacing System 
Fast Joint Precision Joinery System
Many just use block of wood for a push block and that works too..as Bob R.would say..of the RWS..

===




Pauls123 said:


> Hi all, I hope this thread is still going. After having watched the OP video on how to use this jig, (I don't own one), I have a question. On the video it appears the chap is holding the two pieces of timber freehand and just pushing it through freehand without any backing holders/pushers etc.
> 
> Firstly does this cause tear out at the rear of the cuts. And secondly is this the best way to use this jig or would one design some sort of a backing board/pusher, you know what I mean.
> 
> ...


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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

Hi again James, and Bob, and thanks for your replies. Bob, your jig looks superb, I shall have to study your photos. Just today I started making up a jig like the OP one, using 12mm mdf board and a sheet of 3mm laminex on top, they are sitting in clamps now with liquid nails. I think the overal size will be about 485x300.

I've also clamped and liquid nail'd up 5 slices of 3mm laminex around 500 long. I've made the slices about 11mm wide, with the hope that I can trim them down to a neat 10mm in a few days when the liquid nails is nice and dry. This will hopefully slot into a 10mm groove in my main board for the runner. If this doesnt work I'll have to find something else for the runner, at the end of the day I guess I could juse use some hardwood timber.

Back to your comments on the Gifkin dovetail jig, yes, it just does the one style, I only bought the A10 outfit, rather sufficient for my needs, but if I can get out of a good finger jointer for next to nothing, I'll be happy.

James, I took your advice some months ago and called into Trend Timbers, bought a range of timbers to kick off with, they are certainly not cheap, and with a few I noticed when I got home the timber had faults in them,....oh well, that'll teach me for not looking hard enough.

I've also picked up some nice tasmanian blackwood, milled by a chap down in victoria, he milled it all down to 12mm for me. Then the other day I was at Resurrection Recyclers up in Coffs Harbour and picked up about ten lengths of 1500x70x20 australian *******, for the princely sum of $15. Bought it home and sliced it down to 12mm on my triton, leaving me some nice 5mm thin slices left over.

I've also been given a phone number for a chap up in the mountains who apparently mills his own australian red cedar, must chase him up soon,

Regards, Paul


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## Westman (Mar 9, 2012)

*3/8" no longer available*

I figured being new to this forum, I would take the advice and purchase one of these jigs. I was informed that I got the last available 3/8' jig.


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## Pauls123 (Jul 17, 2011)

hi again Bob, looking at your photos of your jig, I am assuming it is designed to take the 3 size cutters as you say from 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2". So it must slide closer or outwards to straddle whichever template your working with. If I just wanted a 10mm (3/8") only I wouldn't need that adjustable groove would I. Just a nice 10mm groove would suffice,..?

Regards
Paul


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## myicq (Apr 16, 2012)

*and in metric ?*

I have been lurking some time here, and learn a lot.

Being from Europe, I don't work in 3/8 7/16 etc.

But would this principle (probably home-made from HDPE or similar) not also work with metric ? I guess that any (straight/dovetail) bit being size _n_ would work, as long as the distances are kept identical ?

Anyone have experience with metric jigs for this purpose, and perhaps even have a drawing of such jigs ? :yes2:


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## wbh1963 (Oct 11, 2011)

myicq said:


> I have been lurking some time here, and learn a lot.
> 
> Being from Europe, I don't work in 3/8 7/16 etc.
> 
> ...


Greetings Torben,

It's good to have another lurking member step forward from the shadows!

This style jig the space between cuts is the same width as the cut, making it very simple to create versions where the space is defined in terms of mm.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Yes Torben, the fence, bit and space between them must all be the same size... IE 10 mm.


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## CGM0427 (May 27, 2012)

*Thanks Mike*

Took me alittle bit to find, but have it saved now. Looks easy, especially in the video.

Chris


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## SteveMI (May 29, 2011)

I went to the OP site and it seems the box joint jigs are on clearance with only one size left in limited quantity. A lot of the merchandise is on clearance. Are new designs coming out? Are they retiring?

Steve.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Steve, what is left is what is left. They have made a business decision to move in another direction and, unfortunately, it has nothing to do with their woodworking products.


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## almost there (Apr 12, 2011)

when I took a look at their web site, those jigs were on close out and all that was remaining for sale are the 1/4 inch ones. I want variety


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## Ben I (May 21, 2010)

Question for 'Detroit Mike'

Some time ago this thread lamented the discontinued Oak Park box joint jigs. 

Before I came across this tread I had previously bought a Woodsmith jig. I find that to be very tedious to fine tune. Despite a good CD instruction disc I found that I had to make an excessive amount of trials to get the jig locked.

Last night while reading a sales catalog from Eagle America, I came across their offering which on its face appears to be based on the old Oak Park design.

The info was on page 48 with a product number of 415-9405 at a piece of $119.25 USD.
I called up their web site 'Eagleamerica.com' and called up 415-9405. It provided no further information nor video.

My questions to you and any other forum member are these:

From the catalog info can you tell if this design is based on the Oak Park Design?

Has anyone out there have hands on experience with this jig that they would like to share with me before I commit to buying it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Ben


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Ben in Cypress Texas said:


> Question for 'Detroit Mike'
> 
> Some time ago this thread lamented the discontinued Oak Park box joint jigs.
> 
> ...


As close a copy as I have ever seen. The only thing is that the Oak Park table was drilled to accommodate the clamping screws and per drilled holes in the jigs. I have used the Oak Park jigs clamped to the table without problem, but if I was to buy the Eagle America set, I would drill the fixing holes in the table and jig. Makes for easier set up. 

Have you seen the Oak Park jigs used in video?

PS, the Oak Park jigs are all HDPE , not mdf with UHMW PE bars.


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## paulnj (Jul 26, 2011)

Hi Mike, I know this is a very old post, but I still want to ask here that where can I buy the Oak Park Box Joint Jig you mentioned? I googled and did find a website on Oak Park, but no jig there. Could you kindly show a link? Thank you very much!


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Oak Park is no more, they closed the doors late last year. Many members have made their own, it really is simple. These shots are of the 3/8" and 1/4" OP jigs.
You will find that adding a first name plus a few details about yourself and available tools in your profile will be to your advantage. Many members including myself rarely answer questions from anonymous members.


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## paulnj (Jul 26, 2011)

Thanks, Harry! That's too bad Oak Park is not doing their business anymore. As a casual amateur, I don't have a shop and only doing some wordwork for fun during weekends, I really don't want to spend my "precious" time on building these jigs. The only jig I made is an extremely simple circular saw cutting jig.

Didn't realize that there is nothing in my profile. I thought as soon as I registered, all my information will be there. Will do that right away, thanks for reminding!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Paul, it is sad that Oak Park quit building the box joint jigs. New jigs based on this design will be available by June. Watch the forums for news on this.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

UHMW Plastic Sheets and Strips

and yes the 4" wide stock will do the job just fine..all you need to do is to screw the guide bar in place.

I have 4 sets I was thinking of putting two sets on the forum for sale but but it's so easy to make your own.. 

Just a note;;;;; you don't need to drill holes in your router table top to hold them in place a quick clamp with do the trick and if you have a tee track on your top you have 1/2 the job done..

===


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## paulnj (Jul 26, 2011)

Thanks, Mike!
You mean this June? I can wait for one more month  Hope it is not so expensive as Incra stuff.


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## Ben I (May 21, 2010)

I have been following this thread for some time. It's a pity to see a good product disappear from the market. Recently I came across an ad for a system which may be a clone of the lamented Oak Park Jig. The ad was on page 48 of my Eagle America catalog. The Item number is 415-9405 Multi-Joint Spacing System selling for 119 dollars US.

I called up the item description on the internet at Eagleamerica.com. There was little addition information or video available.

Does anyone have any experience with this system?

Is this system roughly the same as the Oak Park System?

Judging only from the catalog data does it appear to be made of good material?

Any other comments would also be helpful.

thanks Ben


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Multi-Joint Spacing System

Note;;;;if you don't have the brass setup bars yet you can use a drill bit for the right spacing setup..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=JKz8DtECH2A#!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=teiTCmIKd_g
=
==


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## trav (Nov 3, 2013)

bobj3 said:


> mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/multijoint_system.html?tab=2#TabbedPanels1
> 
> Note;;;;if you don't have the brass setup bars yet you can use a drill bit for the right spacing setup..
> 
> ...


Anyone else try these "new" old jigs? Wondered how they worked.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

trav said:


> Is the above referenced Multi-spaced jig system worth it? Is the exact same design as the previous oak one was??? I couldnt tell from the video, does it slot into your miter trench?


It appears to be the same design as the Oak Park design. The Oak Park system works very well, so I would assume this one would as well. And, no, it has nothing to do with a miter slot... it clamps to the table top. 

Is it worth it? That's up to you. The Oak Park system is a pretty slick way to make box joints.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Welcome to the forum, Travis.


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## trav (Nov 3, 2013)

BrianS said:


> It appears to be the same design as the Oak Park design. The Oak Park system works very well, so I would assume this one would as well. And, no, it has nothing to do with a miter slot... it clamps to the table top.
> 
> Is it worth it? That's up to you. The Oak Park system is a pretty slick way to make box joints.



Brian, I am sorry for more questions... does it just clamp to your surface using regular C clamps (w/e you have) or does it have its own clamping sytem. Ic ant tell from the pics or the part of the vid I watched. Maybe I am missing it (probably).

Thanks for the welcome James!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Travis, they clamp down or you can drill holes to locate them like Oak Park did.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

trav said:


> Brian, I am sorry for more questions... does it just clamp to your surface using regular C clamps (w/e you have) or does it have its own clamping sytem. Ic ant tell from the pics or the part of the vid I watched. Maybe I am missing it (probably).
> 
> Thanks for the welcome James!


Travis, don't apologize for the questions, we've got LOTS of answers here. Maybe not me personally, but SOMEONE here will know the answer, so feel free to ask away. Mike has the answer to this covered already. 

Adjustment is pretty simple... set the bit height, usually the same height as your material. Tap the fence towards the bit to loosen the joint, tap it away from the bit to tighten the joint.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Or you can use your tee slot if you have one on your router table,I didn't like drilling any more holes in my top or using clamps you just need two screws to hold in place I did it on one of my router tables..the MLCS one is a bit longer than the Oak park one..

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Router-Table-with-Stand/T10432
===


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## trav (Nov 3, 2013)

bobj3 said:


> Hi
> 
> Or you can use your tee slot if you have one on your router table,I didn't like drilling any more holes in my top or using clamps you just need two screws to hold in place I did it on one of my router tables..the MLCS one is a bit longer than the Oak park one..
> 
> ...


Anytime I take a drill to anything I am afraid I will ruin it. When I attached the base to my circular saw for my guide, I was about to vomit the entire time. lol


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## 4aggies (Sep 11, 2010)

Thanks for info


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## Doc Yank (Mar 26, 2014)

Wow! I bought this jig probably 12 years ago and it has sat in storage.. As I finally re-build my shop, I found it with my VHS tape directions video (haha) Looking to finally use it, and from the responses here, happy I bought it! Now my question, in a box with 1/2 in sides, do the 3/8 fingers look better, or the 1/2 in fingers? Thanks for the help before I make some sawdust!!:yes2:


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Hi Brian. Welcome to our little corner of the 'net.

As to whether 3/8 or 1/2 will look better.... beauty is truly in the eye of the beholder here. I would suggest taking some scrap material and experiment.


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Welcome aboard Brian. I'd agree with what Brian (the other one) said, depends on what looks good to you. For me, it would depend more on the height of the sides than the thickness of the stock. As i look around our living room, next to me is a 9" x 12" tray, about 2 1/2" deep that has 1/2" dovetail corners that look beefy. A pair of pine boxes for DVD's that are about 6" deep and have 1/4" box joints--looks kind dainty. Both are 3/4" thick material. Oh, and the one right behind me--at least 7" deep with 1/2" box joints--definitely beefy looking. 

Find what pleases your eye, and more importantly--tickles the fancy of the recipient!! My wife loves them all, so i've got it easy!!

earl


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## Doc Yank (Mar 26, 2014)

You both make sense…I'm going to try both on scrap and see… box will have 12" high sides… plenty to experiment with!


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

Doc Yank said:


> Wow! I bought this jig probably 12 years ago and it has sat in storage.. As I finally re-build my shop, I found it with my VHS tape directions video (haha) Looking to finally use it, and from the responses here, happy I bought it! Now my question, in a box with 1/2 in sides, do the 3/8 fingers look better, or the 1/2 in fingers? Thanks for the help before I make some sawdust!!:yes2:


Hello and welcome to the router forums,  Brian


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Brian, when setting up for your cuts you want them to be slightly deeper than the thickness of the material you are cutting. In other words set your material on the jig next to the bit and adjust the bit so it is just above the wood. This allows for finish sanding to smooth it off for a perfect fit.


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## almost there (Apr 12, 2011)

Can you make center keyed box joints for odd width boards or do you have to cut the boards to a specified with based upon the cutting diameter of the bits in order to have equally sized pins?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

almost there said:


> Can you make center keyed box joints for odd width boards or do you have to cut the boards to a specified with based upon the cutting diameter of the bits in order to have equally sized pins?


A very good question, Lee. And one that I am trying to answer at the moment....

A small variation in the final pin would be no problem as many dovetail joints carry half pins at the ends...

I can see that using a center keyed joint would make it difficult to find the correct off set, if the pins were not started from one edge..

I am going to make some calculations, and if necessary, cut the boards to the set widths.


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## ESpence (Dec 26, 2006)

Are there any videos showing setup and use?


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## almost there (Apr 12, 2011)

Mike, tell me again 1- how to buy some and 2- type of spiral bit you recommend-upcut spiral or compression spiral?


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## Leifs1 (Dec 16, 2009)

almost there said:


> Can you make center keyed box joints for odd width boards or do you have to cut the boards to a specified with based upon the cutting diameter of the bits in order to have equally sized pins?


Hi Lee
I just came home from 2 weeks vacation in Norway and can see that you never did get an answer to your question but maybee you figured it out yourself.

Using the Oak Park jig you need to cut the board width to a multipul of the bit size. Because if you end up with half a pin (or tail)on your first board, your next board will start with half a pin (or tail) and that does not work.

Best regards Leif


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Leifs1 said:


> Hi Lee
> I just came home from 2 weeks vacation in Norway and can see that you never did get an answer to your question but maybee you figured it out yourself.
> 
> Using the Oak Park jig you need to cut the board width to a multipul of the bit size. Because if you end up with half a pin (or tail)on your first board, your next board will start with half a pin (or tail) and that does not work.
> ...


Hi Leif, using the Oak Park jig and the recommended 'off set' block, every piece starts with a full pin or tail, the half pin always ends up on the other side and matches up.

That may occur if you use a jig where one piece is the "off set" for the next piece, which is not the recommended Oak park method.


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## Leifs1 (Dec 16, 2009)

jw2170 said:


> Hi Leif, using the Oak Park jig and the recommended 'off set' block, every piece starts with a full pin or tail, the half pin always ends up on the other side and matches up.
> 
> That may occur if you use a jig where one piece is the "off set" for the next piece, which is not the recommended Oak park method.


Hi James, Yes you are right. I did not think of the offset block.( I do not have this jig my self. ) Then one has to take into account that the second board must be flipped sideways to fit ?

I was more thinking of Lee's question as to center any board on the jig so one would end up with a half or 3/4 pin on both sides. Could be done but rather complicated with different offsets for each board. ?

Rgards Leif


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## rtacabinet (Apr 23, 2014)

Classic Oak wood fabricated kitchen cabinets are in latest trends. People used to buy them not only for their exquisite design, shape and color combinations but also because they are very durable and long lasting.


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## berniep (May 11, 2009)

*oak park jig*



harrysin said:


> Oak Park is no more, they closed the ji doors late last year. Many members have made their own, it really is simple. These shots are of the 3/8" and 1/4" OP jigs.
> You will find that adding a first name plus a few details about yourself and available tools in your profile will be to your advantage. Many members including myself rarely answer questions from anonymous members.


G'Day Harry
Firstly let me say thanks for the comment on my profile, that long since I joined and have been on, missed it.
secondly have been searching through archives and can't find plans to make a generic jig. Is there one? or can you give me some measurements?
Cheers
Bernie


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

berniep said:


> G'Day Harry
> Firstly let me say thanks for the comment on my profile, that long since I joined and have been on, missed it.
> secondly have been searching through archives and can't find plans to make a generic jig. Is there one? or can you give me some measurements?
> Cheers
> Bernie


Bernie, these shots of my OakPark jigs should be sufficient for you to make one (or more). The only critical things are the with of the insert which must be exactly the same as the bit that you're going to use and the hole that the bit protrudes through must be big enough in order to adjust the jig so that the space between the edge of the bit and the insert is the same as the bit and insert. These shots taken a long time ago when I stopped using my ancient home made jig in favor of the OakPark one that I won on a forum competition may be of some help.


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## berniep (May 11, 2009)

G'Day Harry

Thanks for that, will attempt to make one. Was always too scared of the router to use it but with the help of yourself (your howto posts) am really enjoying it!

cheers
Bernie


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The router is an amazing tool Bernie but when I first became a member of this illustrious forum, most posts referred to table routing so in the intervening years I've attempted to demonstrate that there is a whole new world of exciting ways to use routers, particularly PLUNGE routers. At this very moment I can see a member, a good friend looking in on this thread, in recent years HE became a routologist, that is one who really understands the various ways in which routers can be used.


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## dvto2 (Nov 12, 2012)

*offset block?*



jw2170 said:


> Hi Leif, using the Oak Park jig and the recommended 'off set' block, every piece starts with a full pin or tail, the half pin always ends up on the other side and matches up.
> 
> That may occur if you use a jig where one piece is the "off set" for the next piece, which is not the recommended Oak park method.


Can someone explain the make up and use for the offset block a little more? I looked at the MCLS video which does not use an offset block. Does anyone have a video of this?


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## Deadeye086 (Apr 8, 2012)

If I could start to make these for sale. 
would there be a market ????


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Morris, you would have big league competition from MLCS, Peachtree and others. At one point I looked into producing the jigs out of solid HDPE by machining the material instead of inserting the fence strip. Difficult to compete against the prices of jigs made overseas.

This is still the easiest to use box joint jig available.


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## Deadeye086 (Apr 8, 2012)

Mike said:


> Morris, you would have big league competition from MLCS, Peachtree and others. At one point I looked into producing the jigs out of solid HDPE by machining the material instead of inserting the fence strip. Difficult to compete against the prices of jigs made overseas.
> 
> This is still the easiest to use box joint jig available.[/Q
> 
> ...


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Deadeyeo86 said:


> THANK YOU for your quick reply. I enjoy reading you post, and have learned a lot doing so.
> I plan on making some of these design ( OAK PARK ) for my own use (have the 1/4" original). I want to also make a 3/4" for 3/4" boards to make storage boxes. Once I find a source of material.


Here's one source

Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

Here is another source for UHMW and HDPE sheets:

https://www.amazon.com/Molecular-Polyethylene-Standard-Tolerance-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDLAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475259159&sr=8-1&keywords=uhmw+sheet

https://www.amazon.com/Polyethylene-Off-White-Tolerance-D4976-245-Thickness/dp/B00CPRDN3W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475259282&sr=8-1&keywords=hdpe+sheet


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