# Plywood ski jig



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

I really like Harry's ski jig's but thought that most woodworkers wouldn't want to fool with getting the steel rods made. I came up with the idea of using a plywood "H" frame to support the router and it worked out ok. Here are the basic steps to building your own.

Start by getting the furniture hanger bolts, washers and knobs.(8 of each required) If you are building a ski jig for a trim router then 1/2" plywood and 1/4" hardware is fine. The jig shown is 3/4" Baltic birch plywood and needs either 5/16" or 3/8" hardware. Your hardware determines the size of the slots and the bit required to make them.

Next you will need the plastic to mount the router on. This jig has Lexan but Plexiglas would work just fine. The plastic should be 3/8" thick x the width of your routers sub base plate x the width plus 1-1/2" for the length. IE.. 6 x 7-1/2". Mark the center of the plastic by running lines from corner to corner. If you want to use guide bushings drill the hole and countersunk area to fit them or just cut out a 2" hole if the jig will only be used for planing and sign making. Using the sub base plate from your router as a template mark, dril and countersink the holes to attach your router.

The long rails of the H frame are 1-1/2" x 24". I chose this length so the jig would handle boards up to 10" wide without needing to adjust the router on the rails. The short rails are 1-1/8" by the short dimension of your plastic. IE.. 1-1/8" x 6". Attach the short rails to your plastic plate by drilling, and countersinking holes for #8 x 3/4" flat head screws. I centered one hole and added another 2-1/2" from each end so they would not run into the furniture hanger bolts when installed. These 6 screws had no problem supporting the PC 690 series plunge router. Using a router bit to match your hardware adjust your fence so it is 3/4" from the center of your bit and cut the slots in the long rails leaving 2-1/2" on each end. A spiral up cut bit works best for this. Clamp your long rails and the short rails mounted on the plastic(with the plastic on the bottom) to a bench and drill the holes for your furniture hanger bolts. Use two nuts jambed on the hanger bolts to install them. Fasten the long rails to the short rails with the washers and knobs This is best done with the pieces sitting on a flat surface; this compensates for any slop in the alignment. With the H frame assembled you can measure the spacing required for the slots in the end plates. Add at least 1" on each end, IE.. 7-1/2" slot spacing plus 2" = 9-1/2" length. I added more so I could make saw handle grips as shown in the photo; I thought this would give even more control.

I started on the end plates by making a template out of 1/4" Masonite. I cut the angle and used tin can geometry for the corners. By this I mean I grabbed a can of wood putty and used the base as a guide to mark the curved corners. I drilled two 1-1/2" holes for the handle and made straight cuts with a jig saw to connect them and then to shape the corners. A touch of light sanding and the template was done. I adjusted the fence on the router table so it was 1-1/2" from the center of the bit. I made the slot in one end of the end plates. Next I adjusted the fence and made the other slot cut. I attached the template with some double stick tape and routed the outside of the end plate to shape. I drilled a starter hole in the handle and routed out the opening. After both end plates were cut I changed to a 1/4" round over bit and rounded over all the edges. Assemble the end plates with the washers and knobs and it is time for alignment.

Install the router to the plastic plate. Set the jig on a table and support the H frame with pieces that are a uniform size on each end of the long rails. I used steel 1,2,3 blocks because I had them but you could make a set out of hardwood... 1" x 2" x 3". Since I was working with a piece of 2 x 4" for a planing test cut I used the 2" height adjustment. Tighten the knobs, install your bit and make some sawdust.


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## adres52 (Sep 8, 2009)

Very interesting jig!!!


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## bobbotron (Jan 7, 2010)

I've often thought of making a ski jig like that, nicely done!


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

@Mike - I am going to give your jig a shot. What is the length of the hardware hanger bolts? I haven't ever had the need for them so this is new stuff.

Note: My plexiglas plate is 3/8 thick 12 x 12 inches. I bought it to route some trays. I'd rather not cut it down.

Do you think I need to lengthen the rails more than 24 inches in order for the router to span the 16 inch diameter of the slabs I have?

I have some 5/16 inch knobs already so that might be an option for the knobs.

Thanks
Mike


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## old folks (Dec 7, 2006)

Mike, would you do a video on making the skis ? If youould, please post it in You Tube.

Thanks

John


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## RickPr (Jan 16, 2012)

Does anyone know the size of the end plates?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Sorry I didn't respond to this sooner guys. There is no one size fits all plan since routers vary so much. Compare this small ski jig I built to help a member with his. The hanger bolt sizes vary between the prototype jig and the small jig. BrianS has the prototype jig and I am planning on building one for myself which will have a Bosch MRP23 installed on it and a second for sale with a PC 693. A plunge router is by far the best type to use on a ski jig. I promise to provide measurements and photos of the builds, maybe video too.

The small jig uses 1/2" thick Baltic birch plywood and has 5/16" hanger bolts, the length I used for this is 2=1/2". The prototype was 3/4" phenolic impregnated BB plywood and has 3/8" hanger bolts that are 3" long.

Building this type of ski jig needs to be done in order so you get a perfect fit. New mounting plate first, then the H frame. The end risers are last because you need the measurements from the installed hanger bolts fo find your width. I added 1-1/2" on each end to the hanger bolt spacing. I like the handles cut in the prototype but used square pieces for the small jig. It is easy to attach knobs for a different grip.

Working with this method using a 12 x 12" base plate does not present a problem. All the parts are sized to work with it.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks Mike. Appreciate it.


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## RickPr (Jan 16, 2012)

Thanks Mike. It all makes sense!


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## MasterSplinter1 (Jan 27, 2013)

Very cool jig but im just curious as to what its use is for?

Rene


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Rene

It's just a router table upside down that holds the router for you//
You could call it a free hand Pin Router ..
I have 7 of them and the beam type is the one I like the best it can do so much more than the normal type.
Just a note about the beam type you don't need to make one if you don't want to you can just buy one if you want.

Trend PFJ/SET/1 Pivot Frame Jig Set - Amazon.com

Trend Pivot Frame Jig - YouTube

If you do a little bit of checking you will see the Trend jig was out b/4 Harry/Template Tom ski jig..
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MasterSplinter1 said:


> Very cool jig but im just curious as to what its use is for?
> 
> Rene


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

MasterSplinter1 said:


> Very cool jig but im just curious as to what its use is for?
> 
> Rene


Hi Rene. Welcome to the forum.

There are many posts by Harrysin that show the ski jig in use.

This is one example:

Using router skis demo1 - YouTube

This is another:

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/39608-no-snow-try-skiing.html


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## MasterSplinter1 (Jan 27, 2013)

Thank you very much.


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## bruce thom (Apr 2, 2008)

*Trend Jig*

Bob:
I am making a ski/pivot jig like yours but with the modification of handles like those posted here by others.
I cannot find the nylon shoes that you are using on yours or those described by Trend...
I've been to Rockler/HomeDepot/Reid/Grainger/ McMaster Carr and others.
Have you a source that you would share???
I have the rods and am using 1/4 by 20 threaded posts.
I have everything but these nylon shoulder washer/bearings..
Thanks for your help
I admire your work and postings.
Bruce
in Northern Califo:sarcastic:rnia


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bruce

You can get the stock from
UHMW Plastic Sheets and Strips
and then just use drill cutter to make the shoes,very easy to make
you will see the cutter in my post

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...s/plgtenon.html?zoom_highlight=tenton+cutters
plus a hole saw and the cutter below
#9285H 1" $29.95 $15.95
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Abthom said:


> Bob:
> I am making a ski/pivot jig like yours but with the modification of handles like those posted here by others.
> I cannot find the nylon shoes that you are using on yours or those described by Trend...
> I've been to Rockler/HomeDepot/Reid/Grainger/ McMaster Carr and others.
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

During many years of ski routing I've tried all manner of things to reduce friction but all except simply fitting iron-on edging strip made control of the skis too easy, in other words some friction is required so that there is no chance of over-run. Only when you've experienced the difference will you fully appreciate what I'm saying.
These shots of roller balls and castors were the worst of the lot.


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## bruce thom (Apr 2, 2008)

TNX Bob
The Knobs on you posted on your last jig do not match your older posts??
do you have a later method to make these?
I've been making knobs for some time but none as nice as these?
TNX
Bruce


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bruce

I now use soft drink bottle caps they are cheap and with little bit of fiberglass resin and a tee nut in the cap whey are done..I do like the ones that look like knobs.. 

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...s-horizontal-router-table-update-100_2331.jpg

http://www.routerforums.com/attachm...s-horizontal-router-table-update-100_2332.jpg

==



Abthom said:


> TNX Bob
> The Knobs on you posted on your last jig do not match your older posts??
> do you have a later method to make these?
> I've been making knobs for some time but none as nice as these?
> ...


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## bruce thom (Apr 2, 2008)

TNX Just started looking at caps in a different light
Now when I am shopping for soda I will consider if they will make appropriate candidates for Knobs..

Great idea and much simplier ( SP)
Bruce


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Amazon.com: 9 Pack - NOS High Performance Energy Drink - 22oz. Bottle: Health & Personal Care

Product Description
NOS high performance energy drink is not the same stuff you put in your street rod, but it will give you a very powerful boost! When you need to leave the competition in the dust, don't mess around with the others, drink NOS original passion fruit flavor.

http://www.drinknos.com/
http://www.findnos.com/


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## bruce thom (Apr 2, 2008)

Bob:
$3.00 a bottle , plus high fructose syrup??
I think I will stick with my Ensure bottle caps which my wife drinks daily. else I will search for caps in the recycling bins.


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## Vallyena (Aug 23, 2013)

Hi everyone,
Great ideas, which I will put into practice


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## FreeTime (Dec 2, 2012)

*Router Ski using angle guides*

I wasn’t able to find the proper rods for my router so I had to devise an alternate using 1” (1/8” thick) aluminum angle. With this design, the router is able to slide in the X-axis. The removable pieces holding the angles are second generation. The first attempt used an aluminum keeper on the bottom and the cuts did not fit the angles close enough which allowed more racking when assembled than I liked. The components are made out of 5/4 oak with I had left over from another project. I am eventually going to fabricate a square router base plate (lexan/plexi) so I can interchange routers and facilitate the use of X-axis stops attached to the runners.

*Features:*
•	It has about 12” of useable height and a min height of about 1”.
•	It can be used without the risers – the angles used were 36” long and will ride on whatever guide surface desired. (I used the prototype without the risers to surface my bench)
•	The fine adjustment was nice afterthought and a natural for the layout
•	It stores well

*Fabrication notes:*
•	The cutouts for the angle – 1+ passes (depends on the blade) on the table saw for the vertical kerf and the horizontal recesses were manually done with a trim router. Make both to fit the aluminum angle close – it needs to slide but not wiggle.
•	I used threaded inserts for the 4 bolts on the 2 steel keepers and the fine adjustment rod.
•	I did put a ¾” guide on the holders to run in the vertical track on the risers – this may be overkill.

*Lessons Learned:*
•	On the moveable holder, double check the spacing needed between the angles for your router plate or leave it wide. Measure and test. You only get one shot at the spacing of the vertical cuts and if too closely spaced, the router won’t slide well.
•	Leave the aluminum angle slightly proud of the bottom surface of the holder so the keeper will put the necessary pressure on it.


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## Dale2992 (Dec 13, 2012)

*My thoughts also*

Mark, thanks for posting this, that is the same aluminium angle I purchased this past weekend to see if I could build a sled for my router with it. I like a lot of the features you have incorporated especially the fine adjustment. 

If you have used it much have you found any flexing of the aluminum angle stock? That was really my only real concern.

My intial thoughts were to make this with 2 small clamps of some type to lock my router in one position, one one each side of the guides. Then just use the sled handles to move the whole sled but leave it possible to slide the router in the guides to give me more that option. 

I just havent worked out how to keep the lower clamp parts low profile so that if I don't have much clearence I can still get low the on project without interference. Will repost when I do, others thoughts are welcome.


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## FreeTime (Dec 2, 2012)

I have used the angle guides over a 30" span - there is no flexing. But if you don't get the angle holders precise enough you will get slight racking of the risers which is essentially the same problem. The first version I did attempt to use nylon locking set screws against the angle (so as not to mark the aluminum) but these did not do the trick.

RE: clearance ... I did consider cutting off the bottom of the risers if needed so the angle would go right to the surface. I think I could get away with it since I used 5/4 (the risers would be sturdy enough) but I'm not sure how rigid a 3/4 riser would be with no bottom support for the larger openings for the angle.


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## 4aggies (Sep 11, 2010)

Great pictures Thanks!


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## rtacabinet (Apr 23, 2014)

Plywood made frames and cabinets are becoming popular in nowadays as they have many advantages.

1) Light in weight

2) Great resistance to wear and tear

3) Can be mould into any shape easily

4) You can fix them with apply any indutrial adhensive without using nails.


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## twinton (Jul 28, 2014)

Mike great option. Does it matter that the jig is cutting across the grain and not with the grain? Other than size limits, why all the jigs design to mill/plane lumber down always cut across the grain? I ask because I am considering building one that cuts with the grain but his of course adds expense and accounts for other issues such as bounce that a 5-6 foot long jig would have, where as a 24-30 inch jig would not have to consider this .
thanks tw


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