# Akeda BC24 Dovetail Jig arrived!



## Michael H (Aug 15, 2009)

My Akeda BC24 arrived last week. I was just waiting for the accessory C-kit, with all the bits and guide pins, to get started. That finally came yesterday.

I had the new 24 inch PC Omnijig, but was frustrated with the time to set-up and having to make multiple test cuts to get it dialed in. I wound up selling it and got the Akeda.

Out of the box, and there is nothing to assemble. The jig itself is self-contained; no finger template bars, stops, router rest to add to the jig. It's all in one slick, well-designed system. I snapped in the dust collection port and plenum in about a minute. The longest part of getting it ready was making the plywood sub-base to mount the jig to my workbench. Once that was done, I was ready to cut some DTs.




























I purchased the complete 64 piece accessory kit with the jig. It has all the guide fingers, guide bushings, DT and straight bits, spacers, collet reducer, dust collection, etc. for all the DTs and box joints the jig can make. Other than new router bits when these wear out, I won't need to buy any other add-ons. 

The accessories are a lot of little pieces that screamed for a storage case. I could see some pieces getting lost unless I organized them right out of the packaging. So my first DTs were for building the storage case for all the parts. I laid them out and sketched up a measured drawing. All of the components are separated in compartments, making it easy to grab the right guide fingers, bit and bushing for the project at hand. I used some scrap maple and mahogany to make the case. 






















Oh, and the accessory C-kit comes with an 'Akeda' lapel pin, which made a great storage case logo!









I read the manual before making any cuts. But the jig is incredibly intuitive that I could have snapped the fingers into place and ploughed out the DTs without it. I didn't make any test cuts before making the case, just went right at it. The DTs were little shallow and a slightly loose, due to operator error. I don't think I set the bit depth correctly. I just adjusted the depth, re-routed the pins and planed the tail boards down about 1/64 inch. Since it was just a storage case, I wasn't worried about it.

There was some tearout in the mahogany pin sides, even though I was careful to do a climb cut (right to left), slowly plough out the middle material and finish along the pin guides. This Mahogany is a bit stringy (African), so I'll attribute the tearout to the wood and not the straight bit. There was no tearout on the maple tail boards.

From start to finish, including set-up of the jig was about 20 minutes. I was going slow to make sure that everything was right. I bet that once I get used to it, I could knock out a drawer box in 5 minutes, set-up to finish. IMO, it's that easy.

Dust collection is incredible on this jig. There was virtually no chips or dust on the floor or bench after making the cuts. I hooked it up to my shopvac and the chips disappeared. I always found the PC Omnijig dust chute to be large, clunky and in the way. You also had to remove it when changing fingers for pins/tails.

I have a Pat Warner clear precision plate on my Bosch 1617EVS router and I could see what I was doing while making the cuts. I never was able to clearly see the cuts on the Omnijig; too much metal obscured the view. 

The fact that the router rest is built in to the jig and the router never touches the pin or tail guides, makes the cutting operation smooth and friction free. I waxed the router base and jig guide rails and the router slides smooth as silk. The Omnijig router rest was the fingers and a slide-on bar that never felt smooth to me.

Laying out the DT joint for the storage case couldn't be easier. I snapped the first tail guide in the jig, clamped the tail board in place, mirrored the tail guide on the right of the workpiece and filled in the guides in between. Depending on the width of your piece, you can easily play around with tail/pin positioning for variable spaced DTs. The fact that the guides snap in in 1/8 inch increments doesn't bother me. I feel that I'll get as much variation as I need with the jig. If your board widths are in 1/8 inch increments, everything will fall out just fine. I saw on the Akeda website that they are coming out with an 'Index Strip Adjuster' that basically offsets the index strip on the jig for widths other than 1/8 inch increments. This will solve the issue that some have with the jig.

AKEDA - New Products

When I'm finished using the jig, it's easy to store (especially with my new case). I don't have a large shop, so it doesn't have a dedicated station.









I have a couple of minor things that I think that Akeda should change.

1. The jig itself doesn't come with any DT or straight bits. Since the bits are specific to the jig (you can't just use any DT bits), it would be nice to get at least one DT and straight bit with the jig, maybe for 3/4 inch or 5/8inch stock. 
2. Everyone recommends (including Akeda) purchasing the dust collection port/plenum for the jig. The jig was designed with integrated dust collection, so why is it an add-on? I don't think I would use this jig without the dust port. I could see the enclosed chamber getting clogged very quickly.
3. Storage case? Even though it was fun and a great way to test out the jig, by making my own case, I think it would be wise for Akeda to offer a dedicated case for all the parts. The pin/tail guides could easily get lost, as well as all the other things. If you are thinking of getting this jig with the accessory kit(s), either make a case right away, or have some stackable lidded plastic containers ready and labeled to store everything. You'll go crazy if you just put all the pins/tails in a bin together. 
I've got a Arts & Crafts style dresser to make next. Can't wait to get to the drawers and use the jig again. I may just get out some scraps and play with it just for kicks.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Michael,

Nice looking set up, looks like you will be having a lot of future fun.

Thanks for the tour of the jig


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Michael you could be an Akeda salesman! Great review and I love the case! When I do buy a dovetail jig I will be looking for something simple. This sure sounds like it. Thanks!


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## romanf (Oct 1, 2008)

Beautiful box. Well done review. I think the Akeda is the way to go is you want an easy to use professional DT jig.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

When i looked at the pics, i thought,What a nice case they come in, Nice job, nice presentation. Thank you!


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Did You find the manual that You needed?


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Nice show-and-tell, Michael. Thank you for the review!!!


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## chuckasmith (Jan 6, 2011)

You inspired me to organize my guides and such. I picked up a Craftsman DT fixture model 925 450 but had no manual. If someone can help with that many thanks.


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## Shortcut (Jan 25, 2010)

*blind dovetails*

I posted earlier about my problem with this jig for cutting blind / lapped dovetails.

There are two problems.
The first is setting the depth of the dovetail.
If it's set as per the instructions with the side positioned against the back fence, the dovetail is always deep about 1/16".
( I have the correct cutter and bush fitted)

The second problem is fitting the two end stop guides for making repetative cuts.
It's fiddley and in some cases they can't be fit at all due to the drawer front fouling them.

I have no problems with through dovetails.

I suspect either no one has tried cutting blind dovetails as I have not had anyone comment that they have the same problem....or no problem at all......indicating I am doing something wrong?
which is strange considering the number of jigs that have sold?

I have contacted Trend, for advice, and am awaiting them to cut some test pieces using drawer side and front dimensions that I am using.

Mike


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## Michael H (Aug 15, 2009)

Mike,

Not sure why your pin cuts are too deep on the drawer front for half blind DTs. I have the Akeda BC24 (same as Trend jig, but in imperial measurements). Hold the drawer side stock (I cut a small piece of the drawer side stock to use as a gauge block) and hold it flat against the rear guide rail. Bring your drawer front stock forward in the horizontal clamp until the edge protruding is flush with the outer face of the side stock board and clamp in place. Make sure that it is square to the jig side stops and protruding evenly across the whole pin board. You should get a near perfect flush fit. Do a test piece or two and check the depth fit.
I use the half blind (or lapped in the Trend literature) pin stops for repeatable cuts. 
It works for me every time.

Good luck.

Michael 




Shortcut said:


> I posted earlier about my problem with this jig for cutting blind / lapped dovetails.
> 
> There are two problems.
> The first is setting the depth of the dovetail.
> ...


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## Shortcut (Jan 25, 2010)

I thought I would share an update about my experience with this jig.
After the comments I posted earlier, I still stand by my statement that setting the blind or lapped dovetail in the horizontal jig is not so straight forward as it appears.
Each cutter covers a timber thickness range. If you set to the dimension stated you can be a mile off, and trial and error on several test cuts are needed.
Don't get me wrong it just takes some time to get it correct.
I still have not worked out a simple way of setting the guide stop locators for consecutive joint cutting, other than marking the position with a sharp pencil, checking the fit, inserting the guide stops, then relocating the timber up to the marked location...then setting the stops.
There is nothing mentioned in the instructions, just a diagram of the stop guides.
However, once they are set up they are invaluable.
I set mine for a 22mm drawer front which has 15mm sides and back.
I have been building a chest of drawers with 8 drawers, which was a doddle to do....once set up.
As I said earlier..through dovetails worked fine, and setting up on the right hand side of the jig if you want to make the back of a drawer shorter than the sides to accommadate, drawer slips is straight forward.
I have had the jig now for a couple of weeks, and have been woodworking for a couple of years.
I am very pleased with the results...now that I have had time to play with it.
I do have reservations that, you can just get it out of the box and cut dovetails without any test cuts etc. The number of parts is overwhelming if you buy the add on kit, working out where to press, to click in and attach the extraction ducting, fitting the plastic strip for the extraction to work is fiddley, till you get the nack, and when cutting several pins on one set up makes a lot of cuttings that the extracting unit can't deal with ( so you have to keep clearing it out.) No one mentions cutter changing and resetting of depths, which isn't a problem if you have a couple of routers........which all makes me wonder if some of the reviews truely are independant.????
Would I swap it?
Not on your life.


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## woodmanz (Oct 31, 2011)

*akeda jig*

HI Michael thanks for the tips on this jig,hopeall is well with yours I've never used a dove tail jig,so if you have any more thoughts on jig would be appreciated thanks woodmanz:dance3:


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I have the Akeda 16" jig and am most pleased with it. I have done numerous boxed with outstanding results. The first DT I tried was the blind and it can out great, the lipped I have not tried. I picked my Akeda from a fella selling out, paid 200.00 for Jig, accessory kit,and a DeWALT 618 router great find. I just ordered and received a new set of bits from the only Akeda supplied outlet the Jig Store Welcome to the Jig Store - thejigstore.com - Woodworking Jigs & Router Accessories. I like your accessory box. Have fun and enjoy.


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## jackpalo (Apr 12, 2012)

*Felicitaciones*

Se ve increible, te deseo mucho entretenimiento y trabajos productivos con esa bellesa, siento envidia de la buena, pues por estos lados no tenemos forma de adquirir esas herramientas tan utiles.

un abrazo


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