# Router bit set



## Wade Pen (May 21, 2020)

Hello, I am just getting into using my router. I recently purchased a used but in excellent condition a Porter-Cable Omnijig 55160. I am finding a tough time finding the bits or a bit set for it. The part # for the bits do not give a description so it's hard to find a different brand. What I'd really like to do is buy a set that has all the bits in it for this Omnijig. I live in Canada, does anyone know where I can buy these or have a list for a different brand's equivalent? One last thing, for those of you that have used this Omnijig do you have any tips or suggestions for it's use?

Thank you.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Some of the specs are described on page 5 of the manual...see this... http://go.rockler.com/tech/rtd10000496aa.pdf

I'm thinking that as long as you match the depth of cut, the angle of the dovetail bit might not matter...

You could also contact Porter Cable (are they still around ?) and ask for the angle of their bits labeled D1, D2, D3, etc...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Contact Porter Cable first. Almost all bits have quarter inch, half inch or metric sized shanks (shafts) so the manual should tell you which. Then you can purchase any bits that fit the collet. Old routers sometimes have worn out collets. Collets are in two pieces, the outer part squeezes down on the inner part, which holds the shank. They are precision instruments with tolerances with a couple of thousandths of an inch between good and useless. 

You do NOT bottom the bit in the collet. In face, a good trick is to put a half inch grommet (not a Oring) into the gottom of the collet and bottom the bits on that. Otherwise you drop the bit in and pull it up about an eighth of an inch. I find that that process requires 3 hands, so I use the grommet. 

The inside of the spindle is slightly tapered so when you tighten the nut, it pushes the collet down and the taper tightens it up. You can see the tolerances are tight.

You can find many parts on ereplacementparts.com if you need them. There are also quarter inch adapters for collets and metric sizes as well. I am not familiar with metric so someone from up North will have to fill in that informaiton.

When loosening up a collet, you often find that you can turn it a bit to start loosening it, then it kind of sticks. You then loosen it a bit more and it releases. 

If you have more questions, let us know. We like to help.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Wade.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Wade. How to use the jig is something you can find on YouTube. As to bit sets for it, the fingers on the jig are where the bearing on the bit rides, so typically you're talking about a pretty standard dovetail set that will fit your router and match the thickness of your work piece. I have never had any happy results from this type of jig and went to a more modern jig where you move the jig on a table. Mine is a Sommerfeld jig, but there are other brands as well. I went to see a demonstration of the PC jig done by a serious woodworker and she was unable in an hour to turn out a single joint that fit. 

With the PC jig you move the router with the pieces clamped in place. They must be positioned just so, and you need to have several practice pieces to set up with, and the inside and outside pieces must be set just so. With the other typo jig, you clamp the wood in place and move the jig over the table mounted router. My eyesight is getting a little weak, and I think I misread your post the first time. I know that on YouTube you can find a lot of videos on using this jig, including one by Norm Abrams. The manual is fairly helpful, but few people really read those anymore and sometimes the prose is hard to follow.

One thing that is very helpful is to mark the inside of every piece, and the up down orientation. You can lay the pieces out for a box and mark each end with a number from one to four. So one piece will have a 1 on one end, and a 4 on the other end. An arrow points up so you know what each piece is. Personally, I'd also mark a p for pin side, and t for tail so you don't get mixed up. It becomes very confusing and if you don't do the setup on practice pieces, you will become thoroughly confused as you make new parts and try to match them. Dovetails are beautiful, and challenging. 

BTW, welcome, and I hope this has been helpful.


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## Biagio (Mar 2, 2013)

@Wade Pen,
If you look at page 2 of the same manual Nick referenced, you will see that PC selected a 7-degree dovetail angle. Best to stick with it, in my experience some jigs only work properly with the designed-angle bit.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Biagio said:


> @Wade Pen,
> If you look at page 2 of the same manual Nick referenced, you will see that PC selected a 7-degree dovetail angle. Best to stick with it, in my experience some jigs only work properly with the designed-angle bit.



Good catch, Biagio...I missed that part...:smile:


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Welcome to the forum Wade. I'm guessing you have the manual or at least now to download a copy for your jig. As Nick and Biagio have suggested stay with the bits as PC recommends and you'll be golden. Establishing the collet size is the 1st thing to determine. Do you have the manual for your router? If not download the appropriate manual and check the specs. And my advice for equipment questions is typically check with the manufacturer especially if looking for parts and they usually have manuals online to download as well.


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## roxanne562001 (Feb 5, 2012)

Welcome to the forum Wade


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## regcraft (Apr 4, 2011)

The PC Omnijig requires 7 degree dovetail bits to match the angles on the variable template of the jig. You can use any angle with the sliding dovetail taper jig (no built-in angles).


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Hi Wade and welcome.


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