# Digital readout freestanding height gauge



## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Using my new table, I feel a need for some accurate and easy measurement of the protrusion of the router bit. I have a couple of 6" digital readout gauges. I will make an alloy base that fits the bottom jaw, with clearance for the smaller inside measuring jaw. Add a large auxiliary jaw to the existing moving jaw. And I should then have a digital height gauge to measure bit height and other setups. Undo a bolt or two, and out comes the gauge to be used for workshop measurement. In the U.K., these gauges are available for£8.For ease of use, and a useful tool, has anyone out there made or adapted such a tool?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Uhm, Mike... we work with wood. If a fly farts the humidity can go up enough to make the wood swell. Wood goes through constant movement, do you really want to drive yourself crazy tracking all those minute changes and trying to correct for them? A former co worker may of hit the nail on the head when he said: "It's good enough for the kind of girls we go with." Think about it.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I will use it to check the depth of router bit cut in a router table set-up. Just an easy way to see how high above the table the router bit is. A bit easier than using a rule. I will give the base a thick slot. Shim the fixed jaw to size with claerance for the small moving jaw. The extended jaw will be faced with brass or I may make it from a suitable block of hard nylon.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Brass bars would do the same and a lot cheaper too unless I've missed something.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

The problem with a digital readout is the bits won't be at the same height when you change them. Fancy lifts and digital readouts for routers are just something to spend money on. They won't make your work any better. Just my opinion. Brass bars do the job cheaply.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

For my part thanks for the replies, I have often wondered about all that down to the .00? stuff. I find it hard enouth to get to the 1/64th much less anything any smaller!! You have given me hope that I might actually be able to build something I would want to post!!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Mike, I was not making fun of your idea. I do feel you are going far beyond what is needed for woodworking. Here are a few of the solutions offered for sale here. These start at $10 and the digital gauge runs $50,


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mike, we are always on the lookout for good ideas but for routing wood I do think that you are going overboard. As you can see in the first shot, I have a height gauge which I only use for metalwork, also like most hobbyists, I also have dial and digital gauges again for metalwork. The second shot shows how I normally set the cutter height, to a marked line.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I enjoy making things.I like tools that speed up accuracy and marking out. Last week I made some T-nuts to enable me to add a pair of 1" thick sliding sub fences, to my Incra fence (I am not buying a Wonder fence. I had to use a vertical milling machine to shape the metal bar(I made 5 T-nuts) then drill and tap. I needed my magnetic base and dial gauge to set up the vice. I last used the dial gauge to set up my planer blades after I resharpened them. I will make/covert my spare LCD gauge to a vertical height version. So when I change bits, or require that bit of accuracy, even though it may only be to the nearest 0.5mm, I know it will be there, not there-abouts, for certain things.I have a Jessem router raiser. Measure thrice, check twice and cut once. My school technician and even my cleaner (an ex-machinist) talk and measure tolerance in cigarette paper thicknesses.I am quite happy in 1/32", especially with the Incra system, so why not be accurate. As my eyesight deteriorates and if I do not put on my reading glasses, the LCD readout is a quick check/indication of me being in the ballpark.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Mike... I had to read your posts a couple of times to visualize what it is your up to. So here is my two cents worth. First, judging by the amount of thought that has gone into what it is your attempting to make, I have no doubt that you are fully aware of the many different kinds of measuring devices on the market. Each of which, when properly used performs well enough. I think its safe to say, your idea here is as much about making a tool as it is about its function. 
Personally I say "go fo it"!!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Mike..
what about a wired brass contact embedded into that nylon block. Wired to a low voltage LED indicator light and small watch battery? Raise your bit to flush with the plate top, make contact and trip the lil light?........


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

For the high ends user of the router 

Wixey Remote Digital Readout - Rockler Woodworking Tools
Rockler Digital Height Gauge - Rockler Woodworking Tools
Smartlift Digital Router Lift - Rockler Woodworking Tools


============


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Thanks TwoSkies, that is innovation. Preset gauge and crank lift to make contact, nice idea. We are in the C21st, even though it is wood. I machine quite a few plastic and aluminium parts with my router and do need a good fit.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

hmmm, Think I'd go with a stainless contact rather than brass....since the point of contact is so small and sharp and brass tends to get kinda funky, to complete the circuit, stainless would be a better idea...could be incorporated with either above or below , zero is zero. would also work on the tablesaw...


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

The table saw is another tool where I shall use it. I can use it on my copylathe and for marking parallel lines for carving and routing on the lathe.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

The measuing guage spawned a question for me: If I know the position (height) of the bit, is my router accurate enough to actually cut to that depth? All motors have some endplay and I'm curious to what the shaft runout would be. Do any of you guys that do really fine cuts have an idea?


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Lance, as I've posted photo shoots of on many occasions, when producing projects in my milling machine, milling using the vertical slide in my metal lathe or plain turning metal as in the stainless steel, brass and aluminium pens that I recently made and posted, I always use dial and digital verniers, even very occasionally, micrometers so that I don't forget how to use them!, BUT................with wood, accuracies like that wouldn't even allow for glue!


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Mike Wingate said:


> Using my new table, I feel a need for some accurate and easy measurement of the protrusion of the router bit. I have a couple of 6" digital readout gauges. I will make an alloy base that fits the bottom jaw, with clearance for the smaller inside measuring jaw. Add a large auxiliary jaw to the existing moving jaw. And I should then have a digital height gauge to measure bit height and other setups. Undo a bolt or two, and out comes the gauge to be used for workshop measurement. In the U.K., these gauges are available for£8.For ease of use, and a useful tool, has anyone out there made or adapted such a tool?


As has been posted already, there are some commercially available digital readouts that work similar to your idea. I have the one that Bobj posted and will probably use it on the router table: Rockler height gauge LINK

You sound like you have a plan and let's see how it turns out.

Speaking of digital readouts and height gauges, here is a smart idea I read about some time back. It would actually be cheap to make and could be made with scrap wood. Do you remember one of the height gauges posted earlier: Height gauge LINK Well that one is $15. 

First you need this $10 plastic digital caliper from Harbor Freight: ITEM 93293-1VGA LINK 

Rather than explain it, see the attached image. With that you could check the router bit height or lay it down and check the distance from the fence to the bit like the other attached image. I would probably add a wooden block to the bottom so that there is a higher contact surface between the gauge and the bit.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Thanks Noob, now people are thinking and being creative. Add your ideas or what you have seen. I must look at some metal machining forums.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I use this easy to make gauge at times.


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## garycurtis (Sep 17, 2007)

Instead of relying upon a router table, for making joints I use a device called a WoodRat. The dealer carries digital scales as accessories, and I have them. 

But not for indicating bit depth. The only instance where I find the digital scales useful for cutting sliding dovetails. A tolerance of about .002" is helpful for getting a nice fit. Otherwise, even though I have scales mounted on the machine, I don't use them much. 

And I agree about the variability of bit depth. Every time you put one in a chuck, it's going to be at a different depth. Save your money.

Gary Curtis


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

garycurtis said:


> And I agree about the variability of bit depth. Every time you put one in a chuck, it's going to be at a different depth. Save your money.
> 
> Gary Curtis


I'm pretty sure that you can zero it out anywhere you want just like you can with all digital calipers. Put your bit in, butt up the bit to the top of the table with a piece of wood or whatever, then zero it out. Can't get much simpler than that and highly repeatable.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

harrysin said:


> Lance, as I've posted photo shoots of on many occasions, when producing projects in my milling machine, milling using the vertical slide in my metal lathe or plain turning metal as in the stainless steel, brass and aluminium pens that I recently made and posted, I always use dial and digital verniers, even very occasionally, micrometers so that I don't forget how to use them!, BUT................with wood, accuracies like that wouldn't even allow for glue!


Thanks, Harry, good comparative analysis of measurement. 
I am still curious as to the shaft runout in typical routers. It doesn't seem to matter to measure down into thousandth's of an inch, if the router is not capable of holding that degree of accuracy when operated. I don't know if that is true or not.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The entire idea behind brass set up bars is a touchable, visual reference point. There is no easier way to adjust your bits height. When working on a project that requires aligning the bit with the wood it is smart to make a test piece and then save it to use as a set up block for that type of cut. Bob Rosendahl uses his rubber ruler to demonstrate that with woodworking those highly accurate measurments are an illusion, and that the more you try to measure the more mistakes get made. Set up jigs, brass bars and other fixtures are an easier choice to ensure your projects fit together... and that is what matters.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

A couple of photos of the new height gauge. It slides nicely without marring the table top, and the plastic/nylon foot is kind on the bits.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Mike Wingate said:


> A couple of photos of the new height gauge. It slides nicely without marring the table top, and the plastic/nylon foot is kind on the bits.


Very nice, did you make that or did you buy it?


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Thanks Noob, I have just made it. It needs polishing.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Mike...

Ya done good!!!!! *S*


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Mike,
Very nice job on the height gauge! 

With the price of digital calipers under $10 it makes a lot of sense to come up with creative uses for them. I picked up a spare caliper a while back with the intention of using it as a digital readout for my drill press, but I haven't got around to making it happen yet. 

Thanks!


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

That caliper cost me £34. I could get one on Ebay from Hong Kong for £4.


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Mike Wingate said:


> That caliper cost me £34. I could get one on Ebay from Hong Kong for £4.


Sorry Mike, I must have misunderstood… I thought you said in your original post that the gauge you were using was only £8 in the UK 

The digital calipers I was referring to are sold through Harbor Freight over here…

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

they seem to be repeatable / reliable and the main body and jaws are stainless steel.

Normal price is $20, always on sale for $15, and occasionally sold for $10 
And undoubtedly made in China…


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I have 2 uncut gauges, one in my home workshop and one at school. Cutting the base of the tool on the milling machine I measured mainly by the 3 separate axis digital readouts, retrofitted to the vertical miller. You cannot always easily unbolt the job to measure parts. I believe in accuracy, not just to the nearest mm. For 40 years I have been building guitars. The fret slots on the fingerboards need to be precise. I used to calculate by long division, before the calculator, and now I use Wfret to 1/000 th mm. I have been using laser cutters and hope to have a 60watt BIG table cutter by September. The thickness of cut of this is 2 tenths mm, so a little bit of offset will be necessary for fingerboard inlays. Fingerboard slots will be cut inside 2 minutes, accurately and to depth. I must make a small handle/eye guard to put on top of the protruding inside depth bar.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I just found this whilst looking through Fine Woodworking magazine. 
Angle Wright Home Page
$139 including shipping. And I wont be able to read it without glasses, unlike my digital model. Mine now has a top handle to facilitate movement, and to save my eye from inadvertantly being poked out.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

Finished with knobs on, and the base is now polished. I found it useful doing my double sliding dovetails.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Mike, not a good choice of cutter for a demonstration of precision height setting, measuring to the top of the bearing doesn't tell us much.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Mike Wingate said:


> Finished with knobs on, and the base is now polished. I found it useful doing my double sliding dovetails.


Nice Mike ! Geo Thomas with knobs on !

I must admit to still liking dial gauges. At least you don't find the battery has gone, just when you need it!

Cheers

Peter


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I knew I should have replaced the bit, but I have just rounded over the Incra RAJ handle, prior to that shot. You guys have good eyes and experience.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Nice job Mike, and when you are machining metal it should be useful. It is still overkill for woodworking.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I have so far found it useful for routing a set of double dovetail drawer slides. If the Incra Ultra is accurate to 0.001", I might as well try and get the router bit at the right height. The Jessem Lift and height gauge makes this ajustment a breeze.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

0.001" today when the sun is shining bright, the temperature a pleasant 33*C and humidity a low 15% certainly won't be 0.001" next week with a forecast of heavy rain, average temperature of 17*C and humidity of around 90%, just a thought.


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## bobmac0825 (Feb 13, 2009)

Hi there Mike,
Only about thirty or so minutes ago I posted almost exactly the same question as yourself and I am with you all the way. The other members who answered are also quite correct but your reply was right on the money because, like myself, you have the tool to be adapted, you obviously enjoy making things, and there is that element of speeding-up the operation because these digital calipers are brilliant to use and they give you the ability to vary sizes and heights away from the standard ones, if you so wish. So,as TwoSkies57 says 'go for it'. I hope I don't appear to be talking down to you. Cheers, Bob.


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## bobmac0825 (Feb 13, 2009)

OOPS! Due to my inexperience in using this forum I neglected to check the date of Mike Wingate's post re digital caliper height gauge and so I am a few months late. But the sentiments expressed still hold true. I like your finished tool, Mike. Cheers, Bob.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

It's easy to do, Bob. I did it last week myself.


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