# Miter Track and T-track on router table?



## JAMcDonald (Apr 4, 2011)

I'm finishing my router table extension for my table saw, and seek advice about the following:

My saw is a Grizzly G05444Z with a standard rail. Thus, the table is 27" wide and approximately 18" deep. See images below.

1) Any advantages to a separate fence as opposed to clamping an accessory fence to existing rip fence? Either will have to be removed for wide stock ripping.

2) Any real utility to a miter track running parallel to router table fence? If so, what distance should this be placed at?

3) Many router fences have attached T-tracks to mount stuff off of, is this that useful?

I note that Pat Warner suggests building a fixture when you feel the need of feather boards, etc. Not to put words in his mouth, but obviously there are various styles of working with a router table.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

JAMcDonald said:


> I'm finishing my router table extension for my table saw, and seek advice about the following:
> 
> My saw is a Grizzly G05444Z with a standard rail. Thus, the table is 27" wide and approximately 18" deep. See images below.
> 
> ...


It looks like your fence has a T-track built into it which would make it easy to attach a router fence to. You don't want to use just the saw fence as it would be necessary to trap your work between the bit and the fence which is very dangerous, unless you are just using it to make grooves.
Instead of a miter track, you can use a miter sled which would slide against your router fence. You'll need one or the other if you are doing rail and style cuts for cabinets. If you do go with the track, I would put it as close as practical to the bit.


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## JAMcDonald (Apr 4, 2011)

I understand, thanks. I was not going to use the rip fence directly, just to clamp on an auxilliary fence to its face with dust collection, etc. I think I'll proceed that way without any additions and try it for a while. Jigs/sleds/fixtures are definitely our friends in the workshop.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi JAM

I would suggest getting the fence below,you don't want to use the table saw fence in anyway, save it for the table saw, the fence below will have all you need and plus some.
Just drill two holes in the top with some slots ( or tee slot track) so you can move the fence or just remove it when needed for the wide stock jobs.

Supreme Router Table Fence
Router Table Fence

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## JAMcDonald (Apr 4, 2011)

Nice fence - I'm too cheap, so I'll just spend more making it myself (but learning)!!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi


" I'm too cheap " hahahahahahaha me too, I have made 5 or so hahahahaha

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JAMcDonald said:


> Nice fence - I'm too cheap, so I'll just spend more making it myself (but learning)!!


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

JAMcDonald said:


> I'm finishing my router table extension for my table saw, and seek advice about the following:
> 
> My saw is a Grizzly G05444Z with a standard rail. Thus, the table is 27" wide and approximately 18" deep. See images below.
> 
> 1) Any advantages to a separate fence as opposed to clamping an accessory fence to existing rip fence? Either will have to be removed for wide stock ripping.


I think that depends on how the auxiliary fence attachment is made, and whether it provides a separate means of clamping the far end. The typical TS t-square fence floats free at the back end. If there is any flex at all in the fence, that can be bad and/or dangerous for routing purposes. For routing purposes, it is also sometimes convenient to move only one end of the router fence to adjust depth of cut. That isn't possible using the TS fence as the base, unless the auxiliary fence provides that capability.



JAMcDonald said:


> 2) Any real utility to a miter track running parallel to router table fence? If so, what distance should this be placed at?


As you've noted, different folks have different methods of working. Some like to use a miter track for coping sleds and such, others prefer to simply run sleds against the fence. A miter track, or a miter/t-track combo can be used for horizontal feather boards, as well. So, again, the track is a personal decision, I think.



JAMcDonald said:


> 3) Many router fences have attached T-tracks to mount stuff off of, is this that useful?


I have t-slots in the MDF faces on my RT fence. I find them useful for feather boards, stop blocks, etc. Others may find them superfluous. 



JAMcDonald said:


> I note that Pat Warner suggests building a fixture when you feel the need of feather boards, etc. Not to put words in his mouth, but obviously there are various styles of working with a router table.


Pat is one of several good sources of information (and, router accessories - I have several of his bases). But, I think he would agree that there is room for differing methods, too, as long as those methods are safe.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

I would make a seperate fence for the router side of the table. Insert T-Track, it is great for stops, feather boards and other repeatable processes. I avoid T-slots in the table surface. It may cause a weakness or catch the wood when feeding, or cause the table to warp. Use a sled. I have an auxiiary board with horizontal featherboards mounted for convenience.


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## JAMcDonald (Apr 4, 2011)

Thanks, this is just the thoughtful and informed kind of information I was seeking. John


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## 01stairguy (Apr 18, 2010)

thats a nice table, well done,


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

There are inexpensive sources of material for fences 8020 Inc Aluminum Extrusion 40 S 40-4084 L x 48 N | eBay

Cheers

Peter


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

istracpsboss said:


> There are inexpensive sources of material for fences 8020 Inc Aluminum Extrusion 40 S 40-4084 L x 48 N | eBay
> 
> Cheers
> 
> Peter


Hi Peter - I've been looking at that 8020 stuff but it looks to me like it requires special hardware due to the odd shaped channels.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

Just a butt in post,,well yes and no, he has them listed on the same web site but a standard 1/4" M.S. screw nut will just slide right in, I also made about 20 or so out of some flat bar stock for peanuts..or you can use the tee slot/nuts bolts also..

Just a note ,,,the MS (Machine screw) type of nut (sq.or hex) is not as high (tall) as the normal nuts...also carr. bolts work well in the slots of the 8020 stock..to beat the high price of the tee slot bolts..( but they need a quick grind job on the belt sander to the OD of the head ,to get it smaller for the slot.)

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jschaben said:


> Hi Peter - I've been looking at that 8020 stuff but it looks to me like it requires special hardware due to the odd shaped channels.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi John
> 
> Just a butt in post,,well yes and no, he has them listed on the same web site but a standard 1/4" M.S. screw nut will just slide right in, I also made about 20 or so out of some flat bar stock for peanuts..or you can use the tee slot/nuts bolts also..
> 
> ...


Thanks Bob - I've been toying with cloning that tapering jig of Rocklers but I don't like the fence they use. Thought that 8020 stuff would make a lot better, or at least more rigid one..


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi John

It's very rigid ,it's tank stock so to speak.. 

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jschaben said:


> Thanks Bob - I've been toying with cloning that tapering jig of Rocklers but I don't like the fence they use. Thought that 8020 stuff would make a lot better, or at least more rigid one..


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