# top 10 features of a router table



## wingate_52 (May 22, 2008)

Can members list their top 10 features for a table mounted router. e.g. table surface, placement of dust extraction, control placement, size for an all purpose router table (even though no such beast really exists).


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## AlanWS (May 2, 2007)

1. Flat top.
2. Flat top.
3. Flat top.
4. Flat top.
5. Flat top.
6. Flat top.
7. Flat top.
8. Flat top.
9. Flat top.
10. Flat top.

These are a few other things, but they are irrelevant if the top is not flat:

11. Convenient access for bit changes. (Convenient for you, the user. There are plenty of opinions on this.)
12. Convenient height adjustment. Convenient for you... I actually prefer an adjustment easily reached while crouching down to sight the bit from near the table top. Many don't.
13. On/Off switch on front of table.
14. Straight fence, square to the table surface. Tall and short fences are useful.
15. Some method of predictably fine adjusting fence position. Fancy fences are nice, but this can also be done if the fence is a straight stick held to the table with two clamps. All you need is a block, a 3rd clamp, and a feeler gauge. Clamp the block to the table with the feeler gauge between block and fence, then move the fence to the block.
16. DC. I like a shopvac pulling from the fence, since it has a small opening around the bit and good suction with small air volumes helps. A real DC works better in the table itself. I have a horizontal baffle between two supporting ribs, positioned about haflway up the router. The router protrudes through a hole in the baffle. The DC pulls air from above the baffle, below the table top. This collects well, and gives the router plenty of clean air, coming through in the correct direction (up).

You might notice that I have not addressed the main design questions, except to say what you need to be able to do. These things can be done, in different ways, with a variety of equipment. People have vehement opionions. 

Should you use a router lift? They are accurate, convenient, and expensive. If you don't get one, you need to look at how easily and accurately your router can raise and lower. Many routers these days allow above the table height adjustment, though as I alluded, I don't care. Few have the clearance to allow above the table bit changes, which I think would be truly useful. 

If you can pop the router plate out of the table, you can get at the bits easily enough. If you bolt the router directly to the tabletop, it's easier to keep the top from sagging because to the structural continuity, but might complicate bit changes. Tilt-top tables address this, as does use of a router that it quickly removed and replaced from its base.

One of the limitations of the Pat Warner bolt-to-the-table approach is that the table is usually at least 5/8" thick, so you give up some reach compared to a plate. That is probably why Warner always notes the extension distance when he reviews routers. 

Pat Warner's books are worth reading, as are Hylton's. It can be quite interesting to contrast their advice, and look at how each carries out the same task.


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

Everything Alan says above plus a mitre track (T slot). Also (tho' not strictly table fixtures) featherboards to keep your workpiece tight to the top and fence.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

This is why I love the OP table. No, it doesn't have the "T" slot, IMHO it doesn't need one. All the features needed are in that table design. If there are extra's needed, these can all be easily made to suit YOUR needs. 

Just my $0.02 worth


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## TWheels (May 26, 2006)

My top 10 router table features (OK, so it is 12) would be:

1. Easy access to mounted Router On Off Switch and electrical plug
2. Easy access to mounted Router to change bits and adjust height
3. Flat top.
4. Possible to sit and work.
5. Stable base.
6. Smooth top.
7. "Slick" top (at least not sticky).
8. Straight fence.
9. Fence Easily adjusted.
10. Easy to attach feather boards.
11. Guards to protect against things flying from the rotatating bit
12. Easy to use push sticks, etc.

I use the Oak-Park table top and am building a stand that allows me to sit and to move the table top so that the work area can be adjusted. I see no need for T-tracks in the table top itself. (Hamlin has already made this point)


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## jimniven (Jul 18, 2009)

A remote front or right of table switch for the router is a godsend when you do a lot of work and it's much safer too.


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## Mike Wingate (Apr 26, 2009)

A convenient size table. Big enough. I have both large and small tables (2' x3'and 14" x 18")
Off centre bit placement to allow you to work at the most convenient area, rather than overreach.
A good on/off switch where you can easily reach it.(I use an NVR and a foot switch)
A slick top.
I have been using a router lift which makes the router a joy to use.
A cranked spanner.
Unobstructed vision, so you can see what you are doing. 
The correct bit so you dont overextend or abuse a small/short shank
Featherboards.
Rubber faced push blocks.
Ear defenders.
Goggles.
Lots of experience
The willingness to see faults and modifications to incorporate into the next table you will build.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I have to agree with Ken the OP table has all the best features. From all the Router Workshop videos I haven't seen anything it can't do that any fancy expensive table can do. And it can often do more! The KISS system just works!


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

wingate_52 said:


> Can members list their top 10 features for a table mounted router. e.g. table surface, placement of dust extraction, control placement, size for an all purpose router table (even though no such beast really exists).


Alan's list is quite interesting and well worth learning from. He speaks from experience. His #15 is a "fine adjusting tool, accurate to <0.001". However, I have to concur with Ken, the OakPark system offers everything on Alan's list. I don't agree with the "T" track philosophy. I prefer the "to it yourself" philosophy.

Tom's list is also interesting, "possible to sit and work" if possible but "stable base" is more important. His "slick top" I don't necessarily agree with. I want a bit of "stickshun" in my top. It helps control the work piece better.

Mike's list is a goodly dollup of imagination and experience. My smallest table is 2'x4' and offcentre is a major plus. The on/off switch is mandatory. "Rubber faced push blocks" don't necessarily go with "stickshun" table tops. "The willingness to see faults and modifications to incorporate into the next table you will build." Is probably the most true statement here. You'll never just own one router, like you'll never build just one table. I have one base with (what I hope will be) interchangable tops -- one for fences, one for skis, one for duplicator, one for templates... ;-)

However, you must remember that this horizontal table with protruding bit is only one of 16 methods to use a router.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

1. Flat, square fence
2. Sacrificial inserts for close bit tolerances
3. A good lift
4. Bent wrenches
5. Dedicated VS router with decent HP
6. THICK (So plate can be inset), FLAT TABLE 
7. Excellent chip/dust collection system
8. Wide range of table insert sizes
9. Foot switch
10. T track(s) on fence....I do not like clamping feather boards or vertical extensions to the fence


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

Gene Howe said:


> Bent wrenches
> Foot switch


I am big time on both of those, particularly the foot switch. I have not had a router incident, but a drill press experience convinced me of the need for either three hands or a foot switch if something goes wrong. 

A foot switch can also be mounted on a table leg at knee height for quick shutoff.


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## beeg_dawg (Apr 14, 2009)

AlanWS said:


> 1.
> 16. DC. I like a shopvac pulling from the fence, since it has a small opening around the bit and good suction with small air volumes helps. A real DC works better in the table itself. I have a horizontal baffle between two supporting ribs, positioned about haflway up the router. The router protrudes through a hole in the baffle. The DC pulls air from above the baffle, below the table top. This collects well, and gives the router plenty of clean air, coming through in the correct direction (up).


I'm not following the description of your baffle setup. Is most of the air pulled through the fence or through the router opening on the table?

I'm modifying a rolling table saw/router bench design where the router is completely enclosed under the table with a dust collection port. I'm not excited about the design as is. 1) Can't access the enclosed volume for cleaning without removing the router/,mounting plate 2) Sawdust is pulled toward the router rather than away (dust collection through the fence method) and (3) cooling the router 

I suppose there is enough air moving around the router to keep it cool, it just don't like the idea of pulling air (sawdust) towards the router. Could you post a picture of your set up?


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Dawg, air flow is very important to cooling your router and removing dust. You can not take air out of a box unless you replace it and this should happen easily. You want more opening than you have exhaust for best performance. Do not worry about a baffle, just let the system breathe.


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## AlanWS (May 2, 2007)

beeg_dawg said:


> I'm not following the description of your baffle setup. Is most of the air pulled through the fence or through the router opening on the table?


The critical thing is to have a lot of air go by. The way I do it is not the only way, and I don't have a picture handy so I'll try to explain better. Most of the air is withdrawn from below the table, but my table is not completely closed in. What I called a baffle is like a bottom to the router table positioned halfway up the router. There is no effort made to seal the baffle around the router, as the baffle just comes near. The DC pulls most of the air from between the top and this baffle. I can open a large area at the front of the router to make sure a large breeze goes past the router. This way the air intake of the router hangs down below the dirty air where it can easily pull clean air over the motor and exit near the bit, keeping crud from falling in. 

The small clearance is more likely in the fence around the bit, particularly the infeed side of the bit where it serves to keep the cut clean, just as a tablesaw ZCI. Since the space is so small, a DC works less well and I use a shopvac in the fence.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi beeg_dawg and AlanWS:

Take a look at which way your router "breathes." For example, I have M12Vs and they pull air from the free end of the router and push it out next to the bit. When you table mount it (bit pointing up) the dust gets blown up through the template bushing hole or the hole for the bit. If you put the dust collection below the table, you're working against the airflow of the router. Take a look at your routers and see which way the air is flowing. Be prepared to mount your dust collection on the fence.

I hope this helps.

Allthunbs


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## AlanWS (May 2, 2007)

Allthunbs:
I agree with your point, but not that it means all DC should be from the fence. In my earlier post I mentioned using a shopvac in the fence because there is not much cross sectional area there to allow much air to be withdrawn, so I wanted the higher air speed of the vac. 

The way the router "breathes" is the reason for the way I have my below the table DC set up. Air is pulled through the router in the correct direction. As stated above "This way the air intake of the router hangs down below the dirty air where it can easily pull clean air over the motor and exit near the bit, keeping crud from falling in."


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

AlanWS said:


> Allthunbs:
> I agree with your point, but not that it means all DC should be from the fence. In my earlier post I mentioned using a shopvac in the fence because there is not much cross sectional area there to allow much air to be withdrawn, so I wanted the higher air speed of the vac.
> 
> The way the router "breathes" is the reason for the way I have my below the table DC set up. Air is pulled through the router in the correct direction. As stated above "This way the air intake of the router hangs down below the dirty air where it can easily pull clean air over the motor and exit near the bit, keeping crud from falling in."


Hi Alan: thanks for the comments. Yes, dust collection is situation specific. There are times when almost anything is appropriate. 

By the way, when I make a comment or ask a question, that doesn't mean that I agree with the question or the answer, only that the question must be asked or the statement made. You have raised a valid issue that I missed in earlier posts and I apologize for not being thorough. But, thank you for being gracious and not mentioning it 

Allthunbs


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

AlanWS said:


> Allthunbs:
> I agree with your point, but not that it means all DC should be from the fence. In my earlier post I mentioned using a shopvac in the fence because there is not much cross sectional area there to allow much air to be withdrawn, so I wanted the higher air speed of the vac.
> 
> The way the router "breathes" is the reason for the way I have my below the table DC set up. Air is pulled through the router in the correct direction. As stated above "This way the air intake of the router hangs down below the dirty air where it can easily pull clean air over the motor and exit near the bit, keeping crud from falling in."


That is brilliant. Do you have a picture of the baffle you could share?

I have a vac port on the fence and DC 4" out the back of the table but I believe that you'e right about the router's relationship to airflow regarding the enclosure. It would be best to isolate the air intake of the motor, completely, and have a separate chamber for dust collection.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

As long as your under table dust collection has more suction than the router's internal fan the debris should bypass the router and head off to the dust collector.


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

When in a table, my Bosch 1617 sucks only clean air through a flexible duct clamped around the plastic end. That temporary measure, of course, interferes with the speed control selector, so it must be set before the duct is clamped on. I am planning some sort of quick attachment in the future. Preferably something that does not cover the speed selector. Either a duct elbow that slips on and stays or an elbow that velcros on the the end over the intake grille. 

Or maybe a spring-loaded air duct connector that would be forced up against the intake when the router is installed in the table.

Suggestions?

.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

I'm understanding the physics of this pretty much the way Mike describes it, "As long as your under table dust collection has more suction than the router's internal fan the debris should bypass the router and head off to the dust collector." Gravity also plays a part, I would think, the dust and chips want to fall towards the bottom of the enclosure and the larger particles are not drawn into the router. 

Sometimes, due to the way I have my DC setup (and lazy mood), I might just run off a couple of passes on some stock just to see what the finished edge is, without the DC hooked up. A separate intake for the router would preclude my laziness and allow for clean air. I'm thinking on this as there is a bit involved, I don't want to make an intake that is so cumbersome it interferes with motor removal and I would like the intake to be as simple as I can make it. Standby..


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

The fact that not a single photo was presented leads me to conclude that none of the posters are happy with their tables!


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

westend said:


> I'm understanding the physics of this pretty much the way Mike describes it, "As long as your under table dust collection has more suction than the router's internal fan the debris should bypass the router and head off to the dust collector." Gravity also plays a part, I would think, the dust and chips want to fall towards the bottom of the enclosure and the larger particles are not drawn into the router.


Yes. Gravity affects the bigger chips more than the fine sawdust, making them more prone to fall down and block the air outlet. That is why I try to make small passes. Unfortunately, some bits are such a pain to set up that bigger passes happen, with the resultant larger chips, which are more prone to falling down. 

I am thinking about a screen just above the air outlet of the motor. This would "let the chips fall where they may", instead of into the air outlet. There is a temptation to consider mounting the screen on the shaft, to make it a slinger of sorts. Centrifugal force would keep it clear. But, there could be balance issues. 

But, since I already have ducted clean air to the router air intake, an aux blower might be the thing.


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

harrysin said:


> The fact that not a single photo was presented leads me to conclude that none of the posters are happy with their tables!


Heh heh, I'm trying to be happy with what I have, Harry, but the grass is always greener....


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## westend (Mar 31, 2009)

Billat908 said:


> Yes. Gravity affects the bigger chips more than the fine sawdust, making them more prone to fall down and block the air outlet. That is why I try to make small passes. Unfortunately, some bits are such a pain to set up that bigger passes happen, with the resultant larger chips, which are more prone to falling down.
> 
> I am thinking about a screen just above the air outlet of the motor. This would "let the chips fall where they may", instead of into the air outlet. There is a temptation to consider mounting the screen on the shaft, to make it a slinger of sorts. Centrifugal force would keep it clear. But, there could be balance issues.
> 
> But, since I already have ducted clean air to the router air intake, an aux blower might be the thing.


I don't think dust is an issue getting into the *outlet* side of the motor, at least not mine. There is sufficient air pressure to keep everything out on that end. What concerns me is trying to keep the intake side clean. You seem to have arrived at a solution for that, Bill, and I'm thinking I should do the same. I don't want anything connected to the housing that would cause the motor and attached plate to be moved and the intake should be easily detached for router removal. I'm guessing a piece of hose with a foam ring towards the housing might do the trick. Maybe some of thast new bendable DC hose that stays in position after bending.


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## GBM (Dec 18, 2007)

harrysin said:


> The fact that not a single photo was presented leads me to conclude that none of the posters are happy with their tables!


LOL, Harry.

This is a great thread... and I happen to this morning need to fix a router table for a friend... I also inherited three commercial sewing machine tables yesterday which are very sturdy and already have a hole in them... but as with all those old ones they have a slight cup in the middle from the heavy sewing machines and the heavy motors... 
Most of that type are made from plywood but one of these appears solid wood... since some of you think a flat table is important (  ) Does anyone have any suggestions for me making the solid wood one really flat in the easiest manner ? Not easy, don't expect that.. just don't want to do it the hard way unnecessarily. Thanks, Greg
Oh yes, they still have working half horse motors on them with clutches..anyone have any cute/showoff ideas for things to run using them on the table ?


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## Billat908 (Jun 25, 2009)

westend said:


> I don't think dust is an issue getting into the *outlet* side of the motor, at least not mine. There is sufficient air pressure to keep everything out on that end.


I would certainly agree on just dust, but one member, AHKeller, had chips or chunks fall down and block the air outlet, causing terminal overheat. http://www.routerforums.com/table-mounted-routing/15678-i-burned-up-my-bosch-1617-a.html That is what triggered my musings on stuff entering the air outlet. Certainly the normal flow or air would keep dust out of that end. But, at some point, chips or chunks could be heavy enough to fall in if not persuaded otherwise by more air flow or mechanical interference (screen or slinger). Reading his post, it is possible that other factors might have entered into this, as well. 



> What concerns me is trying to keep the intake side clean. You seem to have arrived at a solution for that, Bill, and I'm thinking I should do the same. I don't want anything connected to the housing that would cause the motor and attached plate to be moved and the intake should be easily detached for router removal. I'm guessing a piece of hose with a foam ring towards the housing might do the trick. Maybe some of that new bendable DC hose that stays in position after bending.


My router table is still on legs, but when I get around to building a cabinet, there will be a chamber underneath the router compartment. There will be just enough space to lower and remove the router. There will, of course, be a hole just beneath the router, and a foam donut will bridge the gap, allowing router depth adjustment. The donut will have a locater ring to assure proper positioning on the router cap without interfering with the speed control thumbwheel. Or perhaps, a hard duct with spring tension holding it up against the router air intake. You know, guide rods with coaxial springs sliding up and down in Delrin or phosphor bronze bushings, etc. 

At present, I have bought a 3 inch ABS vent elbow, (Lowe's 75264) which should be good fit on the 1617 router cap after a little opening-up with a drum rotary file on a die grinder. A more precision method would be to use the table fence gap as a locater and just rotate the elbow in the gap around the bit to get the desired wall thickness, hence inner diameter. Proper notching of the elbow would clear the speed control thumbwheel. 

The heck of it is, I am obsessing over the speed control access, but most of my work is at full speed, anyway. I seldom need to change the speed after the router is in place, anyway. That is, until I buy a lifter.


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