# Suitable Hardwoods For External Window Frame & Sash



## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

I have an idea just want to hear what others say.
The timber will be unpainted but probably stained, perhaps oiled?
I'm in the UK, South West, Swindon area.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Over in this area they tend to be made from pine, red cedar, and sometimes Douglas fir but I suspect that has more to do with price and availability than anything else. All 3 species are native to the North American northwest and in plentiful supply. There are no commercial hardwoods here. Many here are going to vinyl for durability and lack of upkeep. I suspect your best choice would be oak?


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

This might help you to decide based on your use and the wood species available in the UK:
Timber Species Guide - TRADA ...all about wood and timber

To use, requires a free registration.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Why hardwood, Peter? Availability?
What Charles said, re N. America. Add Cypress for our Southern neighbours.
What do your custom window shops use over there?
(Where's PhilP when you need him, eh?)


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Gaia said:


> I have an idea just want to hear what others say.
> The timber will be unpainted but probably stained, perhaps oiled?
> I'm in the UK, South West, Swindon area.


Seeing that you are from the UK these would be my picks....

Hardwoods that would be "desireable" for your use would be White Oak (American), the Mahoganies (Phillipine, Honduran), Locust, Ipe (iron woods), Mesquite, Ash, Teak and Eucalyptus...

Softwoods would include Western Red Cedar, Redwood, Port Orford Cedar, Southern Yellow Pine, most Spruces, and Bald Cypress...FWIW.

Best picks in order would be... 

Northern White and Western Red Cedars..
Teak...
Eucalyptus...
White Oak...

*Northern White and Western Red Cedars*
Both of these woods are native to North America and are traditionally used for boat building, house siding and furniture. They’re valued for their combination of lightweight, interesting grain pattern and extreme durability in outdoor conditions. Although cedar will show knots and cracks in the grain, it maintains its durability for 20 years or more without warping, splitting or rotting. Its light-colored surface will weather to a silver-gray patina....

*Teak*
The king of durable woods, teak will hold up long enough to pass down to the next generation. It needs no maintenance (aside from the occasional light sanding or cleaning to remove surface dirt), is dense and straight-grained, and will not warp or crack over time. Because of its high mineral content, teak resists rotting even in the wettest conditions. Over time, the surface of the wood will weather to a beautiful silver-gray patina...

*Eucalyptus*
A renewable resource - eucalyptus is a plantation-grown hardwood that is sustainably harvested and in plentiful supply. This high-quality, kiln-dried timber is incredibly solid with great durability and strength and has beautiful grain and a smooth finish that requires minimal maintenance. Eucalyptus is extremely dense, rot- and decay-resistant with a high oil content that repels water and moisture. It also weathers to a soft gray if left untreated, however, it can be stained to maintain its rich tones....

*American White Oak*
Its unique cell structure repels moisture, insects and rot. The famous American sailing ship, Old Iron Side, was built with white oak and could repel British cannon balls. Dense and straight-grained, white oak furniture has an oil finish and can be left to weather to a gray patina or cleaned and re-oiled annually....

But you know there are more choices...

African Ebony
Aglaia 
Chakte Viga 
Cumaru
Curupay 
Goncalo Alves 
Guajayvi
Iroko 
Jarrah
Jatoba 
Merbau 
Monkey Pod
Palo Maria 
Purple Heart 
Sirari Teak
Volador..........................


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Over in this area they tend to be made from pine, red cedar, and sometimes Douglas fir but I suspect that has more to do with price and availability than anything else. All 3 species are native to the North American northwest and in plentiful supply. There are no commercial hardwoods here. Many here are going to vinyl for durability and lack of upkeep. I suspect your best choice would be oak?


OK thanks.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

MAFoElffen said:


> This might help you to decide based on your use and the wood species available in the UK:
> Timber Species Guide - TRADA ...all about wood and timber
> 
> To use, requires a free registration.


I signed up, interesting stuff, thanks.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

OK, the timber merchant I have in mind, carries European Oak at a very good price. So looks like I'm going to use European Oak.
Cheers.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Stick486 said:


> Seeing that you are from the UK these would be my picks....
> 
> Hardwoods that would be "desireable" for your use would be White Oak (American), the Mahoganies (Phillipine, Honduran), Locust, Ipe (iron woods), Mesquite, Ash, Teak and Eucalyptus...
> 
> ...


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## andré54 (May 17, 2011)

*External Wooden windows*

Ok Gaia,

i dit windowmaking for living,so i can tell you wat the hell of wood u use the best in the UK,for making windows.
Because i am from Belgium so we have the same type of weather exept i think our country's wil import different hardwoods.
European oak is not a bad choise but it still is class II/III ( this is 2 to 3 )
Teak is realy the best choise,it is class I but you don't want to pay it.
It is a beautifull wood to,i think it is the most stable wood of all.
Other hardwoods you can use.
- Afrormosia, class I/II stable. ( verry nice wood )
- Afzelia Bipindensis class I very stable.
- Iroko ( Kambala ) class I/II very stable.
- Mahoghony African class III stable
- Mahoghony american (Swietenia) class II very stable 
- jatoba class II stable
- Makoré class I stable
- Merbau class I/II very stable
- Moabi class I stable
- Padouk class I very stable.
- Sappeli class II stable
- Sipo class II/III stable
- Merantie Class II/IV stable
- American red Cedar class II stable
In Belgium and Holland whe use the most Merantie and Sipo because for its price it is a good choice.
Red Cedar is mechanicly not strong enough and it is in Europe much more expencive than in the states.
Hope i could help you...

Kind regards
andré54


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Hi Andre,
Thank you kindly for taking the trouble to reply. Your English is quite good.
The timber merchant I'm intending to buy the timber from has very competitive prices. He also has a well known reputation for helpful service and high quality timber.
I will see if he carries, at an affordable price Afrormosia, class I/II stable. Would this be better for making the windows than using European Oak? I won't be painting frames and sash only staining or oiling them if need too.
I see Afrormosia is quite a lot like Teak but the timber merchant doesn't carry it. He does stock, Iroko, Meranti - Indonesia, 
He carries other species see here for list Robbins Timber
You say, " European Oak but it still is class II/III ( this is 2 to 3 ) can you explain this timber grading is it a European standard?
The timber merchant does stock Iroko and a little cheaper than the European Oak. Would Iroko be a better choice for exterior frame and sash than the European Oak?
Regards,
Peter.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

andré54 said:


> Ok Gaia,
> 
> i dit windowmaking for living,so i can tell you wat the hell of wood u use the best in the UK,for making windows.
> Because i am from Belgium so we have the same type of weather exept i think our country's wil import different hardwoods.
> ...


Hi Andre,
Thank you kindly for taking the trouble to reply. Your English is quite good.
The timber merchant I'm intending to buy the timber from has very competitive prices. He also has a well known reputation for helpful service and high quality timber.
I will see if he carries, at an affordable price Afrormosia, class I/II stable. Would this be better for making the windows than using European Oak? I won't be painting frames and sash only staining or oiling them if need too.
I see Afrormosia is quite a lot like Teak but the timber merchant doesn't carry it. He does stock, Iroko, Meranti - Indonesia,
He carries other species see here for list Robbins Timber
You say, " European Oak but it still is class II/III ( this is 2 to 3 ) can you explain this timber grading is it a European standard?
The timber merchant does stock Iroko and a little cheaper than the European Oak. Would Iroko be a better choice for exterior frame and sash than the European Oak?
Regards,
Peter.


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