# AK router table/stand progress



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Built the top & cut pieces out for the stand. Ordered a 3/8" up spiral so I can mortise the legs. Any suggestions or helpful hints so far would be very helpful. (one of my few bits in 30 yr old sears router (1/4"), tried my new bigger bosch router but was hard to handle for the flush cut. I had to fill in an "oh sh*%!" with wood filler, so that side became the bottom)

2 3/4" birch plywood glued together & banded with 3/4" oak.
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/top-edgebands.jpg[IMG]
Flush cut the bands to the top
[IMG]http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj269/bogydave/flushcutbands.jpg
Rounded the corners








Laminated ( a little weldwood contact cement) & flush cut laminate








Top finished (less the rectangle cut out for the baseplate)


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Cabinet frame took longer than I planned. Mostly waiting on orders of parts & bits. Got some of the fence made.















Big question time.  
Best, easiest way to install the mounting plate? (Rousseau Model 3509) 1/2" radius corners

This way I just need a 1/2" bit, but assembly accuracy is critical.
(router baseplate dia - bit dia /2) for distances from edge of mount.














This way seems to be the most accurate. I don't have the Templates Guides (TG) or the 5/8" bit. Calls for 3/8 OD TG with 1/4" bit to make the template blank (using the Mounting plate)
Then 1-1/4" TG with a 5/8 bit to cut the table top 








I think someone said to buy the TGs at Oak Park?, is that right? Which ones? need 3/8 & 1-1/4 for this job RIGHT?. Come in sets?
Probably means making a new baseplate  eh? What drill bits needed for the base plate. 
Need a 5/8" bit also, (but: Shouldn't I use a 1-1/8" TG with a 1/2" bit to get the right corner radius (1/2" on the mounting plate)

Starting to understand the TG thing but, the 1-1/8" TG wouldn't fit into the corner of the jig I would have just made.?? I used a 3/8" TG & 1/4" bit over a 1/2" radius corner. (Geometry class was many years ago) Maybe need a jig to make the jig  . Will need to think about it.

Sure going to have a better bit collection & more router accessories after this project is over. Also I will have allot more router experience 

Having fun
Thanks, Dave in Alaska


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Looking good Dave

Most router base plates are not true on the outside edge of the base plate.

You may want to check out the links below 

http://wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_20.html
http://wealdentool.com/acatalog/tips_18.html

=========


----------



## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Looks great, Dave. Just one suggestion concerning the top. IMHO, if you were to put a chamfer around the top it would give a more finished look vs. the flush cut.

Here is a nice bushing set on sale at woodcraft...

http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=144625&FamilyID=4855


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

BJ, thanks. Tip 20 makes sense. Do-able with what I have. Thanks for that also.

George, Thanks
After I flush cut the edge, I hit it with a 22-1/2 degree bevel. Picture quality or poor photography don't show it good enough or i didn't take enough off (??). Then lightly sanded edges.
Is this the large bushing set? Someone said favored the large set. Don't know the difference yet. Found set local PC, but the sizes were oddball? Like the one in the set 51/64? must be a reason. Lots to learn yet.
Will I need/use them in the router table? It has a fairly small hole. will have to measure. Maybe this set is for the mount I have. Got it when I was in Seattle last year at a woodcraft store,, with plans to build a table around it.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Dave, since you went with a Rousseau mounting plate you are limited to using the PC style (smaller) guide bushings. The best solution for installing your plate is to buy the Rousseau template kit. This includes the template, two part guide bushing and instructions. As you can see in the photo of the first table I made, we think a lot alike. Yes, that is a Bosch 1617 mounted in the fixed base under the table. The photo makes the laminate edge appear wavy, it is not. You can see the high reveal I trimmed to show off the red oak edging.


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Thanks Mike
You probably had an educated reason for what you got, I'm shooting from the hip now, but learning how to aim better every day.
I should have visited this site before I bought the Rous. MP. Not that I wouldn't have got it, but I would have made an educated choice. I may have decided to make my own, which I still may do in the future (good learning experience) (1/2" or 3/8" lexan, or acrylic work for that??) I got one to use as a template now  Well I got it. Maybe there's a way to change the inner rings to fit other bushings. Would be nice to have the same TG size for every base. (save $) Will try to mount it today or order stuff to do it. Will let yuons know.

 Another ?: Should I cut it in the 1/4 for direct fit or 5/16 & put in the levelers? 

I never did get a reason as to why the large brass TGs are preferred. Any input?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

" I never did get a reason as to why the large brass TGs are preferred. Any input?"

You can use bigger bits  ,,, It's easy to rework any base plate or rings to take on the bigger brass guides, it's about a 10 to 15 min. job..

====



Bogydave said:


> Thanks Mike
> You probably had an educated reason for what you got, I'm shooting from the hip now, but learning how to aim better every day.
> I should have visited this site before I bought the Rous. MP. Not that I wouldn't have got it, but I would have made an educated choice. I may have decided to make my own, which I still may do in the future (good learning experience) (1/2" or 3/8" lexan, or acrylic work for that??) I got one to use as a template now  Well I got it. Maybe there's a way to change the inner rings to fit other bushings. Would be nice to have the same TG size for every base. (save $) Will try to mount it today or order stuff to do it. Will let yuons know.
> 
> ...


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Got it cut & fit.
Used 1/2" pattern bit to cut in the 1/4", then (since I don't have any TGs the right size) I put some 1/2" mdf in the grove, routed down as far as I could with the bit I had. The cut out with a saw. Flipped the top over, used a 1/2" flush cut bit (bearing on tip) to trim the inside. put a 22 degree chamfer on the inside lip.
 Should I mount the fixed or plunge base to the mount ? ?






View attachment 16877


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Nice job Dave

Just my 2 cents I use the fixed base in the router table and keep the plunge base on the shelf for the hand plunge jobs like the ski jig..

=========



Bogydave said:


> Got it cut & fit.
> Used 1/2" pattern bit to cut in the 1/4", then (since I don't have any TGs the right size) I put some 1/2" mdf in the grove, routed down as far as I could with the bit I had. The cut out with a saw. Flipped the top over, used a 1/2" flush cut bit (bearing on tip) to trim the inside. put a 22 degree chamfer on the inside lip.
> Should I mount the fixed or plunge base to the mount ? ?
> /quote]


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Mounted the fixed base. 
Problem with the mounting plate. It's bowed up. corners fit level but the long edges stick up between 1/16 to 1/32. I can push it down easily, but it pops back up. Checked the cutout, but have good clearance. I laid it on my table saw top, it rocks when I push on the edges.
Wrote to Rousseau about "lifetime" warranty. Will let you know.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave 

I don't have any Rousseau plates but many have said it's bowed up in the center, that maybe why it rocks on the table saw..

Mike likes the Rousseau plate maybe he will jump in and have a fix for it other than getting it replace.. 



=======



Bogydave said:


> Mounted the fixed base.
> Problem with the mounting plate. It's bowed up. corners fit level but the long edges stick up between 1/16 to 1/32. I can push it down easily, but it pops back up. Checked the cutout, but have good clearance. I laid it on my table saw top, it rocks when I push on the edges.
> Wrote to Rousseau about "lifetime" warranty. Will let you know.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Dave, there are 4 small holes near the corners for leveling screws. Some of the plate kits included the screws, older kits did not. It is a simple job to run a tap through the holes and insert some allen set screws that your local hardware store will carry. This is the method for leveling the top. Rousseau mounting plates have a patented design where the top is slightly convex. Many companies have copied the plate and inserts minus this patented feature, MLCS, HF, etc. If your plate does not sit level around the edges it could be warped. This can happen to any companies products. Rousseau will stand behind it. Double check to be sure the lip the plate sits on is even with a straight edge, and that there is no sawdust or other debris in the way. I have installed several Rousseau plates and all have been trouble free. I bought one of the HF clone plates and it has a slight sag, perhaps about .010". This is close enough that most projects would not be effected. Except for the Rousseau plate which is slightly convex all mounting plates should be flat.


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Mike: Checked all that, corners good & flush with top, lip good. Don't need the levelers, need to pull it down on 3 sides. Waiting to here from Rousseau. Only email I found for them was [email protected] . 
Got fence mostly done. Need some of Bobs fancy knobs . Actually have a usable router table. Used it to make some of the fence.  .
Snowing, 5 degree F, think I'll stay in the shop today & rout something on the new table  (unless I get caught & have to move snow)


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

It's looking great, you may also want to use the inserts on your fence.

see below


======



Bogydave said:


> Mike: Checked all that, corners good & flush with top, lip good. Don't need the levelers, need to pull it down on 3 sides. Waiting to here from Rousseau. Only email I found for them was [email protected] .
> Got fence mostly done. Need some of Bobs fancy knobs . Actually have a usable router table. Used it to make some of the fence.  .
> Snowing, 5 degree F, think I'll stay in the shop today & rout something on the new table  (unless I get caught & have to move snow)
> View attachment 16895
> ...


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Thanks bj
Another great idea. Will save the sliding fence faces for many cuts & have almost zero clearance. 
I read about using a router as a jointer. Good way to make the spacer. 
Never thought about what to do when edge removed during other cuts. "I like it" .
BJ, you must have been at theis router thing for a year or 2.
THANKS for the tips. & glad your sharing your knowledge.
I put you in my "nice guy" catagory.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

You're Welcome  ,,the little tips make using the router fun and I do like to share if I can ..

==========


Bogydave said:


> Thanks bj
> Another great idea. Will save the sliding fence faces for many cuts & have almost zero clearance.
> I read about using a router as a jointer. Good way to make the spacer.
> Never thought about what to do when edge removed during other cuts. "I like it" .
> ...


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

I just learned why to use the large size TG. I have a 22.5 degree (bought when made whiteside (#2307) order thinking i'd get multiple uses out of it) that don't fit through the Rousseau center ring hole. (sanding the ring now so it comes out easier than using a 3 ft crow bar) I'm thinking of ordering the leevalley TG set. 
1-3/8" or 1/3/4"? Want to use it on routers & table. (Will need to order forstner bits also ) leaning toward the 1-3/4 with 1-1/2 thru hole. (all normal sizes)
How do I drill the center ring on the mounting plate I have in the table to fit new TG set?
(i have 1-1/2 forstner & probably can get 1-3/4 locally)
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=47249&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=51152&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=41778&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dave

It's very easy job buit it must be done just right on the 1st. try.

When you get your forstner bits make sure it has a 1 3/16 bit in the set,once you have your 1 3/16" bit in your hand put it in the drill press,then use some double sided carpet tape and stick the small ring to some scrap wood,then take some masking tape and tape it down to the scrap wood,all the way around the ring...once you have down take it to your drill press, pull the 1 3/16" bit down inside the hole,then clamp the board in place with two clamps,,,check it a time or two to make sure it's dead on center of the hole, once your sure pull out the 1 3/16 bit and chuck up the 1 3/4" bit, drill down about 1/8" then remove that bit and chuck up a 1 1/2" bit and drill out the hole,,,now b/4 you unclamp it put the brass guide in the hole upside down,to make sure the bigger hole is just right,that's to say the ring should be flush, if it's not chuck up the 1 3/4" bit one more time and clean the hole just a LITTLE bit...once your sure it's just right unclamp it and remove the tape..

=====



Bogydave said:


> I just learned why to use the large size TG. I have a 22.5 degree (bought when made whiteside (#2307) order thinking i'd get multiple uses out of it) that don't fit through the Rousseau center ring hole. (sanding the ring now so it comes out easier than using a 3 ft crow bar) I'm thinking of ordering the leevalley TG set.
> 1-3/8" or 1/3/4"? Want to use it on routers & table. (Will need to order forstner bits also ) leaning toward the 1-3/4 with 1-1/2 thru hole. (all normal sizes)
> How do I drill the center ring on the mounting plate I have in the table to fit new TG set?
> (i have 1-1/2 forstner & probably can get 1-3/4 locally)
> ...


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Making progress. 
Will the leevally saw tooth bits work as good as the forstner bits for TG work? Look like they may go deeper on the outside edge of the hole.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,180,42240&p=42245


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Made some progress today. (even tough I plowed snow once & it needs it again) 
Electrical & bit drawers.

Electrical? 
I was going to put in an interposing relay off the cabinet switch & run a cord from the DC Vacuum so when I turn on the router it turns on the Vac. Any reason not to? (will make the cord plug different than any others I have) (power for vacuum is on a different breaker)


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

It is possible to buy current operated double power points, the router goes into one and when it drawers current, throws a relay which powers up the second socket into which the DC is plugged.
The cabinet is a fine piece of workmanship.


----------



## BobSch (Sep 11, 2004)

harrysin said:


> It is possible to buy current operated double power points, the router goes into one and when it drawers current, throws a relay which powers up the second socket into which the DC is plugged.
> The cabinet is a fine piece of workmanship.


The only problem with them is you have to watch the power draw. If your saw draws 15A (assuming 120V circuit) and your DC draws the same you're in trouble. One possible fix is to get a 120V relay, plug it into the dual switch and use it to power the DC from another circuit—just make sure the relay contacts are good for the current the DC draws.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dave

Looking good 

Here's easy work around,, you can hang it right by the power switch on front of the cabinet..

Remote control, I do like the Grizzly one, it comes with two remote buttons.

http://grizzly.com/products/Remote-Control-110V-75-Range/H2797

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97097

One more small tip put on a drawer slider on router bit drawer,on the bottom side of the drawer,(it just takes one set) that way it will not pull all the way out and drop your bits all over the floor  if a bits hits the floor they are toast the norm.

==

quote=Bogydave;88259]Made some progress today. (even tough I plowed snow once & it needs it again) 
Electrical & bit drawers.

Electrical? 
I was going to put in an interposing relay off the cabinet switch & run a cord from the DC Vacuum so when I turn on the router it turns on the Vac. Any reason not to? (will make the cord plug different than any others I have) (power for vacuum is on a different breaker)
View attachment 17094
[/quote]


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

BobSch said:


> The only problem with them is you have to watch the power draw. If your saw draws 15A (assuming 120V circuit) and your DC draws the same you're in trouble. One possible fix is to get a 120V relay, plug it into the dual switch and use it to power the DC from another circuit—just make sure the relay contacts are good for the current the DC draws.


What a good reason for the USA to go at least 220volts to all power points, I'm led to believe that two phase goes to each home, so where is the problem?


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Thanks all
Harry you are so right.
Answer $$$$
The cost of the change would put us in a recession (oops already there).
Yes 220 would be better, more efficient.
I make any powertools, that can, run on 220.
When I built the shop, I put in lots of outlets for 120 & 220. 
I plan to use a solid state 30 amp relay, power draw will not be an issue. (different circuits)


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Installed a lift assist spring/hydraulic.
My neighbor came by with a lift assist from a Ford SUV rear gate.
He thought it would work for lifting the top (after I told him I smashed my finger when lifting the top, the fence started to slide off the back, I quickly lowered the top but left index finger got in the way. Had to drill a small hole in the finger nail to relieve the pressure. Probably going to lose the finger nail.)
I messed with it for a while & got it in a good position. Now when lifting it's easy & it hold it up as long as the fence is in back of middle. If I used one on the other side it would work where ever the fence is. Don't need the stay most of the time. So far it's out of the way for table operation. May also be allot less painful ( i was told stupid hurts, now I know it to be true).


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

Yikes, need to change your name to Dr. Bogydave 

Make's me recall the time I tough my finger was a nail head,shot some blood all over the place from under the finger nail, I'm glad I didn't need to drill it..... 

The lift looks great and should fix that error 


=======





Bogydave said:


> Installed a lift assist spring/hydraulic.
> My neighbor came by with a lift assist from a Ford SUV rear gate.
> He thought it would work for lifting the top (after I told him I smashed my finger when lifting the top, the fence started to slide off the back, I quickly lowered the top but left index finger got in the way. Had to drill a small hole in the finger nail to relieve the pressure. Probably going to lose the finger nail.)
> I messed with it for a while & got it in a good position. Now when lifting it's easy & it hold it up as long as the fence is in back of middle. If I used one on the other side it would work where ever the fence is. Don't need the stay most of the time. So far it's out of the way for table operation. May also be allot less painful ( i was told stupid hurts, now I know it to be true).
> View attachment 17239


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Drilled pivot hole in the fence & table. It does work well. Thanks Bj
Made some zero clearance inserts.
Sliding fences & insert work great to attach many things to the fence.
Add some dust control fixtures to some of the inserts.
Cut a hole in the insert & used it to attach it to the fence. 1st one for working with the bit free. Saw one that BJ made for using the Oak Park box jig (which is in the mail).














Smaller insert for bit guard & I routed a grove in the insert & bit guard support to the tip.
Worked great for pattern work. pulled all the chips & mdf dust good.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Dave

You're Welcome 

That's a neat ideal,,,that's a new one for me, that way didn't dawn on me now I need to make one also now, I guess that's what you get for thinking out side of the fence ( BOX ) 

You are so close to making a over head pin router it's not funny 
Just drop in your pin asm.in the fence and you have a pin router..

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/daisypin.html

=======



Bogydave said:


> Drilled pivot hole in the fence & table. It does work well. Thanks Bj
> Made some zero clearance inserts.
> Sliding fences & insert work great to attach many things to the fence.
> Add some dust control fixtures to some of the inserts.
> ...


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Well I just copied, printed & framed your reply bj,

"That's a neat ideal,,,that's a new one for me, that way didn't dawn on me now I need to make one also now,"

Knowing yours will be cooler & neater, I'm still proud. 


Now I get to say; 
Your welcome, (probably the only time)
Thanks for the compliment & thanks for the seeds

You have to plant the seed before anything will grow, 
This site has planted allot of seeds in my head.


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Cabinet door on, had some 3/16 oak plywood for the panel. 
Vacuum sys hooked up & works good (baffle installed), added some weather strip to seal leaks so vac would work better. 
adding 1 more lift ram, now top stays up wherever the fence is, & it faster to change bits.


























Vac works as in photo (tried to copy from gallery? link works/no thumbnail)
View attachment 17159


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Found a place to store & find the TGs. 1-3/4" & 1-1/2" forstner bit


----------



## S Bolton (Mar 5, 2007)

Very impressive project. Now you can start on a new one pretty soon.

Steve Bolton


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Waiting for parts to finish the cabinet.
Have started other projects. Making boards & prep work to add cabinet to my work bench.
Will have ?s so maybe make it a different topic


----------



## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Very nice table Dave. A lot of work, but something to be proud of.

As for your work bench, did you build it? It looks pretty nice as well. 

Brian


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Thanks
waiting for OP box jig to make the bottom drawer of router cabinet.

Yes, built bench last winter.








Need to learn/figure how to dovetail the middle vertical board in for the cabinet frame. Order box jig set from Oak Park, snail mail. hoping it'll help with the dovetail of the board then mark & rout dovetail in the frame to fit it in. Using the work bench cabinet to learn. Not sure about cabinet doors, flush with frame or like kitchen cabinets. Not there yet anyway. Glueing boards for the styles & rails from left over strips from workbench project.


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Calling the cabinet DONE.
Top seems to be an evolving organism, always something I need to add, like maybe a miter grove or a multi purpose rail on the front to hold various stuff.

Want to do something with the switch yet.
It is a little hard to get to. Maybe a bigger one , push button or something
Any recommendations for ease & quick to find to turn off without having to look away form the router?


----------



## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

It looks like you will get a lifetime of service out of it!


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Dave

You did a real nice job  but I was sure you would when I saw your work bench 

here's link or two to a switch, it's bit high in price but I'm sure it will work on your setup .. 

http://www.ptreeusa.com/routerControls.htm
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17401&filter=power switch

======



Bogydave said:


> Calling the cabinet DONE.
> Top seems to be an evolving organism, always something I need to add, like maybe a miter grove or a multi purpose rail on the front to hold various stuff.
> 
> Want to do something with the switch yet.
> ...


----------



## Bogydave (Nov 14, 2008)

Thanks BJ
Had allot of help from you & others on the site. 
Could make a commercial for Visa though, router bit $25, mounting plate $20, Shipping $50 All the help & advice on the forum "PRICELESS"

Was just looking at the "Safety Switch.. by: Packy46 post. The push "on" then push "off" foot sw, in your link may be the way I go.


----------



## oldhippie1951 (Oct 1, 2010)

Bogydave said:


> Thanks BJ
> router bit $25, mounting plate $20


"What you talkin' 'bout Willis?" HF?


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Robert 

I think you are asking about "HF"
Harbor Freight Tools

==========




oldhippie1951 said:


> "What you talkin' 'bout Willis?" HF?


----------

