# Planing Jig (SLED)



## gregmw (Oct 30, 2009)

Hi,

Thought I would post this thanks - to Ron - All Thumbs great idea.










I am using this to thickness a piece of rock maple,which came out great.

It still needs a couple of mods,like the rails are too high and I need to come up with an idea to hold the stock down and firm.

This piece has an angle at the end with 2 screws in it but it would not work with thinner stock...

Greg


----------



## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

I think that He will get it, I hope, so I will say, its nice to be appreciated


----------



## g19fanatic (Apr 3, 2010)

to help with keeping the board 'clamped' into place... you could use some cams or some wedges 
Router Forums - View Single Post - Clamping Question


----------



## Jerry Schofield (Aug 4, 2010)

Nice work.. I just built a similar jig that installs on the bed of my lathe. I can set up my router with a rabbit bit and adjust the jig for a tapered cut, turn on the lathe and cut a table leg in one pass. Cool stuff, thanks for sharing.


----------



## Soapdish (Jan 18, 2010)

gregmw said:


> Hi,
> 
> Thought I would post this thanks - to Ron - All Thumbs great idea.
> 
> ...


Great setup. I will post pictures of mine soon. Question. What kind of rod did you use? Does the router slide easily? Have you come up with a way to adjust the height of the the work piece or bring the router(or rails) down. I'll take some pics tonight and post what I've come up with. I'm finding that this type sled setup is easy to use and has some neat potential.


----------



## Soapdish (Jan 18, 2010)

*Sled and Ski Pics*

Here's my version of a sled, took some different methods i've seen and came up with this. Built entirely of scrap. I made a square base to fit the jig tight enough to move freely but also no play. 
The base also is built to fit in the ski's I made. I built the skis so I can flatten 5' long logs to outdoors around my fire pit. I used pins in the base so the router can be taken of and on in seconds. Not fancy, but it works for me.


----------



## sfleck (Jun 3, 2011)

That is awesome!! I have been looking for something just like that!! I think I will build that with a few modifications. Planning on adding some stops horizontally and vertically and it will be the perfect jig for me!! Thanks for the idea!






Soapdish said:


> Here's my version of a sled, took some different methods i've seen and came up with this. Built entirely of scrap. I made a square base to fit the jig tight enough to move freely but also no play.
> The base also is built to fit in the ski's I made. I built the skis so I can flatten 5' long logs to outdoors around my fire pit. I used pins in the base so the router can be taken of and on in seconds. Not fancy, but it works for me.


----------



## leatherneckpa (Jan 8, 2012)

This thread is why I wound up joining YET ANOTHER forum.

I have some beautiful 2" thick oak floorboards from a barn that are too wide for my 6" jointer. And honestly, at 5' long, I think they're too long to get a good face even if I were willing to cut them down to 6" wide. I want to use them to make a dining room table, with a breadboard top. So I came looking for a sled. I vaguely remember seeing one somewhere in the past. But magazine publishers apparently don't archive all of their old projects on the web. Too bad.

Anyway, I found this thread and like the pictures. I'm planning to start building a sled today. But the one thing I haven't seen covered is how to hold the material steady in one plane to ensure a nice flat face, without any twist in it.

Anybody care to share how they have done this?


----------



## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Bobj's post (3rd one) in this thread has the answer you need.
Router Forums - View Single Post - Clamping Question


----------



## blindsniper (Aug 21, 2011)

THis is a cool idea. Been wrestling with something like this. 'll start making one for myself. Thanks

Ian


----------



## Rhino59 (Aug 21, 2012)

*Why use a plunge router?*

Soapdish,
Excellent work on your jig. One question is why a plunge router? Would a fixed router not do the same job? Fixin to build a similiar jig but it has more clearance between the work piece and the support arm. All new to me so any help is appreciated. Been planing stock my hand for a while and thought I would get a little more hi-tech.
Thanks,
Ron


----------



## dsbock (Apr 24, 2010)

Thanks for the pictures. Great looking sled. I've been fumbling around trying to design something similar for planing a butcher block style workbench top. I especially like the addition of pins for quick router removal.

What bits do you find work best in medium hard wood (oak) as opposed to pine?

Thanks.

David


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

David, Any of the router ski jigs will do a great job on your project. In every magazine run bit test Whiteside has been the winner.


----------



## Neil Tsubota (Mar 20, 2010)

Does this sled run on the floor ?

I must see the log, and the router, in order to understand this "ski", or "sled" design.


----------



## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

There are many designs that will work. Here is yet another.


----------



## LuisG (Sep 13, 2012)

This was my first sled/ski.. I didnt knew where or how can I use it until it was finished, I got the basic idea on a CNC router, work pretty well on planning and duplicating (you can put on one side a pin and follow any shape) entirelly made of scrap, even the drawer sliders :sarcastic:

Good luck!


----------



## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Your XY table using drawer slides is a great idea Luis.


----------



## LuisG (Sep 13, 2012)

Thanks Harry! 
Its a real easy and cheap way to start on this great hobby


----------



## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Mike said:


> There are many designs that will work. Here is yet another.


Just a sidenote- That is the type I've use on pieces as small as 1/4" x 1" x 1' to as large as 4" x 36" x 30'... And the router pops in and out in an instant to use as a free hand router. 

I have skis. For me, ski's work great for small to medium work to a limited width. Too wide and I get too much flex in the cross-supports.


----------



## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

If you build your ski jig like below you will not get any flex..

Like below but on the cheap 
Planing Sled : Router : Woodhaven

Parts from ▼
80/20 T-Slot 1.5 x 4.5 Aluminum Extrusion 15 Series 1545 Lot 22 (2pcs) | eBay

8020 T Slot Aluminum Extrusion 10 S 1010 x 48 N | eBay

8020 T Slot Hardware Screw & T Nut 10 S 3321 (25pcs) N | eBay

8020inc | eBay

Router plate from Grizzly for 13.oo dollars
PT10432047 INSERT W/GUIDE PIN 9 X 12
==


MAFoElffen said:


> Just a sidenote- That is the type I've use on pieces as small as 1/4" x 1" x 1' to as large as 4" x 36" x 30'... And the router pops in and out in an instant to use as a free hand router.
> 
> I have skis. For me, ski's work great for small to medium work to a limited width. Too wide and I get too much flex in the cross-supports.


----------



## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

Some nice designs there. And they're homemade, and work, which is great. You make your own, you get what you need, not what some manufacturer 'says' you need. A plunge router might be better, I don't know, but I bet a fixed router would work just fine if that's all you had I would be using clamps on the end I imagine or maybe wedges, depends on how the weind would be blowing at the time. :laugh:


----------



## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> If you build your ski jig like below you will not get any flex..
> 
> ...


Looks great and inexpensive. Think I might have a go at making one up. Will look around UK for same parts.


----------



## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Thanks Bob!

That was ingenious using a router plate in the t-slots. That gives me a whole lots of ideas!



bobj3 said:


> Hi Mike
> 
> If you build your ski jig like below you will not get any flex..
> 
> ...


----------



## blindsniper (Aug 21, 2011)

Good work.


----------

