# Connecting three table tops together.



## DarkBlade2117 (Aug 21, 2015)

Here is my plan I'm not a wood working an and really don't know much. I am making a desk but buying most of it individually through ikea.

Everything should line up correctly but if you looked at the picture you'd notice 7 blue spots and 2 green spots.

Blue = Table Top legs I will buy

Problem... Green is gonna be some brackets but I don't know what brackets. There are suppose to be legs there to hold the table tops up but instead I wanna put some type,of bracket there instead of legs to have leg room. i need to know what bracket I should use? I found this ( can't post URL it's called a solid brass table keeper from Rockler )but don't know if it's the correct thing I want. My goal,is to make it some don't have to put a leg where the green spots are and make sure it doesn't bend down so it feels like one big desk instead of three separate ones.


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## DarkBlade2117 (Aug 21, 2015)

I would post links to the exact parts but can't post them until 10 post.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

His reminds me f my old computer desk . It was something like IKEA I believe but I liked how it was two pieces instead of three . The centre was the cut point and it was connected with a piece of particle board underneith . The sides were storage


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## 163481 (Jul 8, 2015)

I surmise you intend this to be a desk/computer table. If it were me, I'd put diagonal braces under the points where your green dots are. The wide part of the brace should be right under the desktop and span from the wall to about 8 inches from the front edge of the desktop. The narrow part, of course, should be on the floor and span about 8-10 inches from the wall. If you wanted to be fancy, you could cut an arc instead of a straight line from top to bottom. Either should give you adequate knee and toe room and hold the top rigidly enough to carry the weight of the desktop, the computer and other things that may be there.

I see there are legs along the back edge but it might also be necessary to install a ledger board under the back edge of the desktop to fasten it to the wall.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I found a pic of my old desk to give you an idea . You can't really see the centre where the cut is though . I love corner desks as I find there more ergonomic


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

How about having an Aluminum extrusion frame welded up? Say 2" sq. tubing, into a double 'L' shape?
The problem is (as I see it) we have no idea of what the underside looks like. Is it one contiguous flat surface, or are there frame pieces in the way?
Screwing up into the underside of the top is really risky...you might come through the top face! And probably not all that strong either.
That's why I suggest the one piece welded frame. If the legs are attached to the frame, you could have a party on it.
Is it going into a corner (two adjacent walls)? You could add a tremendous amount of support by having the back edges resting on wood ledgers/cleats, attached to the walls.


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## DarkBlade2117 (Aug 21, 2015)

DaninVan said:


> How about having an Aluminum extrusion frame welded up? Say 2" sq. tubing, into a double 'L' shape?
> The problem is (as I see it) we have no idea of what the underside looks like. Is it one contiguous flat surface, or are there frame pieces in the way?
> Screwing up into the underside of the top is really risky...you might come through the top face! And probably not all that strong either.
> That's why I suggest the one piece welded frame. If the legs are attached to the frame, you could have a party on it.
> Is it going into a corner (two adjacent walls)? You could add a tremendous amount of support by having the back edges resting on wood ledgers/cleats, attached to the walls.


It's all one flat surface on the bottom


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## DarkBlade2117 (Aug 21, 2015)

sfchuck said:


> I surmise you intend this to be a desk/computer table. If it were me, I'd put diagonal braces under the points where your green dots are. The wide part of the brace should be right under the desktop and span from the wall to about 8 inches from the front edge of the desktop. The narrow part, of course, should be on the floor and span about 8-10 inches from the wall. If you wanted to be fancy, you could cut an arc instead of a straight line from top to bottom. Either should give you adequate knee and toe room and hold the top rigidly enough to carry the weight of the desktop, the computer and other things that may be there.
> 
> I see there are legs along the back edge but it might also be necessary to install a ledger board under the back edge of the desktop to fasten it to the wall.


Looked up,diagonal brace and a few things came up. Could you link me to what you are talking about? I know the dimensions if needed.

Edit- Pictures just showed up


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

DarkBlade2117 said:


> It's all one flat surface on the bottom


Seriously?! No crosspieces anywhere? You are either very lucky, or _not_! There should be _something_ to add stiffness to the tops...
What are the tops made from; solid wood or particle board of some type? How thick are the top?
If the tops are solid laminated boards of 1" or thicker, than you just might have won the lottery.


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## DarkBlade2117 (Aug 21, 2015)

DaninVan said:


> Seriously?! No crosspieces anywhere? You are either very lucky, or _not_! There should be _something_ to add stiffness to the tops...
> What are the tops made from; solid wood or particle board of some type? How thick are the top?
> If the tops are solid laminated boards of 1" or thicker, than you just might have won the lottery.


IKEA has kindda a do it yourself desk but I'm doing a modded do it yourself.

I can find out material but it's 1 3/8 inch thick


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

! 3/8" Wow, That's impressive! It's going to be heavy. You might be able to get away with 3/4" x 6"+ x the length of the joints strips screwed up into the tops.
That's pretty hefty material ...2" x #10 wood screws should do it...wood glue if you never want to take it apart again.
You can mount the leg supports directly to the underside of the plywood support strips.

https://www.google.com/search?q=table+leg+mounting+hardware+pictures&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8


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## DarkBlade2117 (Aug 21, 2015)

DaninVan said:


> Seriously?! No crosspieces anywhere? You are either very lucky, or _not_! There should be _something_ to add stiffness to the tops...
> What are the tops made from; solid wood or particle board of some type? How thick are the top?
> If the tops are solid laminated boards of 1" or thicker, than you just might have won the lottery.


Particle Board with laminate I think..


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DarkBlade2117 said:


> Particle Board with laminate I think..


from Ikea... more than likely...


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## DarkBlade2117 (Aug 21, 2015)

DaninVan said:


> ! 3/8" Wow, That's impressive! It's going to be heavy. You might be able to get away with 3/4" x 6"+ x the length of the joints strips screwed up into the tops.
> That's pretty hefty material ...2" x #10 wood screws should do it...wood glue if you never want to take it apart again.
> You can mount the leg supports directly to the underside of the plywood support strips


The legs you buy at ikea for the individual table tops come with mounting brackets. As soon as I hit 10 post I'll link everything I'm planning to use.


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## DarkBlade2117 (Aug 21, 2015)

Stick486 said:


> from Ikea... more than likely...



Yeah, on a bit of a budget and its $14


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

You're golden; IKEA's open on Saturdays...


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

How about putting two more legs where the red circles are? This would give you more stability than no support on the front edge.


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## gmercer_48083 (Jul 18, 2012)

Mine is joined with 1/8" x 3" x 18" flat steel mending plates with screws about 4" apart running along the length on each seam. I'm 200 lbs and have stood on it with no problem.


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## waynecochran (Aug 2, 2011)

Try looking at fastcap.com, they have "speed braces" of different sizes for over hanging counters. I think they might be what you could use.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

How about something simple, like screwing either a 1x4 diagonally under the top across the opening and onto the side table tops. Or substitute some extruded L shaped aluminum across and screw it into place. That will hold a lot of weight and keep it from sagging. Pre drill the holes for the screws. If you use the 1x4, you could use glue, but you won't be able to take it apart. The longer this diagonal piece is, the more weight it will support since the stresses are distributed over a larger area. The picture shows the location under the top. You could get fancy and round over the underside edges to eliminate splinters in the future.

I'd try the 1x4 first. Get some decent quality wood with long grain and that's pretty flat. You could probably get away with an inexpensive clear pine board since all the stresses will be at the joints between sections. And with the wider board, you can add extra screws to cinch it up under the top. You'll be able to use 1 1/2 inc screws, placed on alternate sides, every 4-6 inches. It will be very strong and unlikely to sag over time without ripping out of the particle board. Use good wood screws, not drywall screws. Total cost maybe $8.


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