# Bob & Ricks stair jig 2



## doddy (Feb 24, 2010)

Hi,
just another dumb question, in the RWS video once you have the measurements for the rise & goings say 7" and 10" does that automatically set your pitch of the stairs. Also does it matter if you start with the jig on the stringer at the top and work down or visa versa.
Thanks in advance


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

The height of your rise & the length of your run will set your pitch. Depending on your rise & run the 7" & 10" you reference might be a little different. The 7" riser & 10" stair tread is a comfortable number & a good ballpark figure to shoot for. But it may not be exactly what will fit your situation. If your risers were 7" & your treads 10" that would give you a 34.99* pitch.


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

probably a dumb answer, but I would think setting the rise and run of the steps would set the incline. Not ever built a set, just watched my father-in-law cut out a couple and then again seen it on tv.

Only thing I really know about it is that once you get going you have to get the measurements the same as the body adjusts to the steps and just a little bit of a change can cause some one to stumble, hit a toe and or fall. Again, just second hand knowledge as it doesn't take a problem to cause me to fall on a flight of stairs. The stairs just have to exist for me to have the ability to fall on them.

I see some one else who knew what they were talking about posted while I was writing this.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Steve

Just my 2 cents, use the magic numbers of 7 and 11 and it should come out just fine..
Start at the top but do all the work on some scrap stock b/4 you make the true set..use some 3 ft long scrap for your test lumber..

=====


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## doddy (Feb 24, 2010)

Thanks for all your input.

I need to make the risers 7.1/4" to achieve the total rise of 87" to keep everything uniform. That should give me 12 risers & 11 treads and a whole bag of sawdust for the hamster.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Your math seems right to me. You can use a framing square & a set of stair gauges to layout your treads & risers. The method Bob shows above is a good way to build your stringers, but you would need to make the jig & have access to the bottom during assembly. Here's a couple of links to some stair gauges. 

Stair Gage Set - General Tools & Instruments

Buy STARRETT Stair Gauge Fixtures at Woodcraft.com


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## doddy (Feb 24, 2010)

Cheers James,
got a practice piece just to be on the safe side. I know once I have done it I will think what was all the fuss about, they say over here, three heads are better than one, even if ones a sheep.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Doddy, you also have to take "head room" into account. The distance measured from the nosing of the treads to any ceiling/overhead above. 

Any state following the National/regional building code (BOCA 6th or 7th edition) must have a finish height, (to sheetrock, rafters or above floor stringers if overhead is to remain unfinished) of no less than 6' 8", (80 inches).

At the base of the stairs a clear unobstructed walkway of 30"X36", (36" being a clear and unobstructed width of the stair tread).

Both of these conditions "ALSO" direct the run and rise of a set of stair stringers.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

512 - 513 Two Part - Basic Stairs
Router Workshop: Series 500

You can see it for free on the 
The Woodworking Channel Video Library
The Woodworking Channel Video Library

plus " Learn the theory and construct stringers " in part 2

====


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## doddy (Feb 24, 2010)

Thanks Ron, headroom not a problem and it's for a cellar access.
Watched the videos about 4 times now Bob, anymore and I'll become a critic lol.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

doddy said:


> Cheers James,
> got a practice piece just to be on the safe side. I know once I have done it I will think what was all the fuss about, they say over here, three heads are better than one, even if ones a sheep.


I thought that only applied in Yorkshire !

Cheers

Peter
(Who has long used the correct loyal toast !)


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## doddy (Feb 24, 2010)

Your knowledge of yorkshire is astounding, it's because working in 18" coal seams we only needed a bucket to stand on to get off the lift.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

Crap I never looked at Doddy's addy. England's constuction rules may be quite different from ours.


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Down here in Croatia, stairs are all in reinforced concrete. They may cover them in wood or tiles, but the only woodwork otherwise is in the shuttering. 
Floors are the same. You can cover them with whatever and add fake beams underneath, but floors between floors (if you know what I mean) are reinforced concrete. It's a fire break.

Cheers

Peter


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

istracpsboss said:


> Down here in Croatia, stairs are all in reinforced concrete. They may cover them in wood or tiles, but the only woodwork otherwise is in the shuttering.
> Floors are the same. You can cover them with whatever and add fake beams underneath, but floors between floors (if you know what I mean) are reinforced concrete. It's a fire break.
> 
> Cheers
> ...


Is that in one owner/family buildings too? Or all buildings?


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

All buildings, Derek. Houses are a lot more substantial here than they are in the UK. 

Many houses have reinforced concrete roofs, too, then felted, with roof tiles over them. It's an insulation thing, as much as anything. It also makes the houses very strong.

When we see houses in the US blowing away in strong winds, we wonder why they are not built the same way. Is concrete expensive over there?

Cheers

Peter


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