# Moving new shop- stud to slab



## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Thinking of moving into my gameroom and make it My new shop?????? What is best way to install 2x4's to a already existing cement slab. Thinking of splitting the gameroom in half making a false wall to keep the dust away from pool table and such


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Powder actuated nailer!

Ramset MASTERSHOT Powder Actuated Concrete Nailer

You may be able to find a rental solution.

GCG


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Or if you prefer swingin' a hammer ...

Hammer Shot 0.22 Caliber Single Shot Tool-00022 at The Home Depot

GCG


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi

Just drill some holes put in some anchor bolts,Ramset like to break the cement slab up. They make a real mess on the edge of the slab..

http://www.amazon.com/Original-Z143...ie=UTF8&qid=1342726364&sr=1-1&keywords=wej-it

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...vpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&ref=pd_sl_8mg5lysw45_e

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papawd said:


> Thinking of moving into my gameroom and make it My new shop?????? What is best way to install 2x4's to a already existing cement slab. Thinking of splitting the gameroom in half making a false wall to keep the dust away from pool table and such


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

Does your game room get very little use now? 

What is the likelyhood that dust from the shop would still get into the game room?

I don't have a game room (very small house you know), but IF I DID, I imagine there would be some unhappy people in my household if I turned it into a wood working shop.

But if it is just you and the wife now, and the game room is not used anymore, then go for it!

Adding onto bobj's post, you can use concrete epoxy to secure the bolts in the holes if necessary.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DZ15JE/ref=biss_dp_t_asn


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

About 10 years ago had a 24x30 foot metal building built for sole purpose of game room pool table,dart board ice box with ice maker for beverages a sink for cleaning and occasional fish/shrimp fry etc.... Now my plan is put a wall in middle or so move pool table to that side still have a game room now that grandkids are getting 6-8 years old and shop will be on the other side ,,, I will be a happier woodworker if I can make this happen as this room also has central air/heat and my current shed/shop gets to about 96 degrees by 11:00 a.m. everyday...The workshop side can be rough plywood on the wall the other side will of course have to match the rest of the decor.... easiest thing wood be sell pool table,T.V. , dart board and make one really nice shop but I think grandkids would enjoy it too much


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

If I may make a suggestion, Warren? I often used a combination of steel-stud channel with either wood studs or metal studs set into it. Makes for very simple framing. A bead of framing glue under the channel with a few 1/2" ardox nails holds like you-know-what-to-a-blanket. No issue with moisture and wood either. I'd also suggest insulation and drywalling _both_ sides for soundproofing...ceiling as well.
If you don't want to get involved with taping/filling on the civilized side of the wall, you can use demountable panels, prefinished. 
National Gypsum Company


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## RTexasCwby (Mar 7, 2009)

I am just completing a new dining room wing on the ranch house. Little over 900 sq ft. All of my interior walls are fastened to the slab with bolts. Drill through the bottom plate and into the slab then use "Red Head" bolts. The absolute best solution. I also own a Ramset but it just did not perform as well as the bolts do.


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## Iceman567 (Apr 29, 2012)

Tapcons which are like a concrete screw or Gripcons. Both require a hammer drill with appropriate bit. Both hold well. Both are 'name brands' probably some knock offs cheaper.
Sorry, can't post a link to either, not to my ten posts yet. LOL.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

Ted, I'm not suggesting this, however; what I've seen done on dozens of my concrete form projects (I'm the manufacturer, not the installer) is that even though the forms are sent to the project with the appropriate TapCon screws, many of the concrete subs just drill a hole, and follow the hole with a short segment of (believe it or not) WeedEater line and then a tightly fitting nail, they then cut-off the string near the nail head. Dan's suggestion above is best, I feel - but "different strokes for different folks".


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## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

papawd said:


> I will be a happier woodworker if I can make this happen as this room also has central air/heat and my current shed/shop gets to about 96 degrees by 11:00 a.m. everyday..


Warren, I feel your pain. My shop is our two car garage (no car has ever been in it!). I did have it insulated and sheetrocked when the house was built, but no heat or A/C. So for several summer months work hours are minimal, very early in day. Add to that the fact that I have to go to work, shop time will be minimal before mid-September.

You will have to properly filter air going into HVAC system. I am very jealous of your plan.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Otis; 'guilty as charged, only I used tiewire`.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

I made a shop out of part of the basement/garage, which has never seen a car due to all the tools, etc. I didn't used any type of fasteners as the house is built on a wet weather spring (shows you need to look at houses after a hard rain). I was afraid of water seeping into the basement. I made the studs a hair long for a friction fit. Just need to make sure I don't bump the bottom of the wall.
As mentioned, If you don't use the family room, use it for the shop.


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## Woodshaper67 (Jan 13, 2012)

Ramset or tapcons I use them both a good bit.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

"I made the studs a hair long for a friction fit"
Would that be the metric or Imperial hair?


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## Iceman567 (Apr 29, 2012)

OPG3 said:


> Ted, I'm not suggesting this, however; what I've seen done on dozens of my concrete form projects (I'm the manufacturer, not the installer) is that even though the forms are sent to the project with the appropriate TapCon screws, many of the concrete subs just drill a hole, and follow the hole with a short segment of (believe it or not) WeedEater line and then a tightly fitting nail, they then cut-off the string near the nail head. Dan's suggestion above is best, I feel - but "different strokes for different folks".


.

Been there, done that. Only we used good 'ol tie wire and a 16d nail. I was in commercial construction for many years and that was 'one of the tricks of the trades'. Didn't want to suggest that either.


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

Daninvan,the remaining ones are grey now.


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Warren

KISS in this instance is anchor a Pressure treated 2X4 to your floor using tapcons. The trimmer string works on shear loads put not as well on pull out loads. Using pressure treated yellow poine will try and twist if not anchored well Use Cedar shingles under the 2X4 for leveling. Find high spot on floor anchor tight at that point. Using a 3/4" subfloor I would use 2' centers Lay out instead of 16"


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

DaninVan said:


> "I made the studs a hair long for a friction fit"
> Would that be the metric or Imperial hair?


I thought they were sized by colour and body location?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

As Otis, Dan , and others have suggested, you only need to pin interior walls down. Outside walls have to be anchored to the concrete, inside only have to be pinned so that the bottoms can't get kicked around. A 1/2" to 1" deep hole with a nail, bolt, or piece of rebar will do. Tapcons or pins can be removed but anchor bolts are hard to impossible to remove should you or someone else decide to return it to one large room. 
Unless the concrete is waterproofed, you should put a foam gasket between the bottom plate and the slab or use PT for the bottom plate. I would also use an exhaust fan of some type in the woodworking side to run the room at slightly negative pressure to try and keep dust from migrating into the games room side.


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Bill I was thinking 2 foot center would be fine will have plywood on the wall and be building a long work table attached to the wall on the shop side which should also help support the wall this table will basically be 2' from wall and have a drop spot to mount sliding miter saw where the saw top is equal to table mostly to support long boards when cutting to size and some mock up will make a 4' work table along the back wall for projects at least this is in my mind so far, I am still looking and thinking as this will most likely be my last shot at a nice woodworking shop so I want to get it as right as possible


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

Regarding shop planning you will be overwhelmed with suggestions so you might consider starting a fresh thread But specifically regarding flooring; under floor wiring and or under floor dust collection. For instance in my shop I use my DC to draw air into a box under my TS the DC keeps the fine dust out of the air drawing it into the box. Soon I will be cutting the concrete floor and putting that (*)(&(*&(_*& hose I keep tripping over and electric conduit below floor

Good luck planning and above all have fun


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

Warren, put the game room in your current shop and take the whole gameroom for your new shop!! Grandkids can handle the heat, their young!! LOL


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Yeah Ya rite Lee, only problem pool table would be trashed in the heat after a few weeks ,,,,I really want to get another shed and start from scratch but wife said no more metal bldgs.........


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

I hear ya (on pool table). And my wife keeps telling me to, "NO MORE BUILDING!". Damn women!


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

papawd said:


> Yeah Ya rite Lee, only problem pool table would be trashed in the heat after a few weeks ,,,,I really want to get another shed and start from scratch but wife said no more *metal bldgs*.........


So is she meaning that if a new shed with twice the square footage of your game room shed, fully insulated, had T111 siding and a shingled roof... it would be okay? (as long as it wasn't metal?)


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*The Sky's The Limit...*



MAFoElffen said:


> So is she meaning that if a new shed with twice the square footage of your game room shed, fully insulated, had T111 siding and a shingled roof... it would be okay? (as long as it wasn't metal?)


Heh...exactly what I was thinking. Maybe a stone exterior with heavy cedar shakes on the roof? Nice wood windows with shutters...and landscaping. 
How could the missus not love it?!


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## paduke (Mar 28, 2010)

My Pool table is in the living room since we have a family room Of course this was before SWMBO (she who must be obeyed) Joined my life


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

I told herover the weekend we could cut down Pear tree and put a 50'x 50' bldg. 20x30 place to put the boat and such the rest will be a shop and the old game room remains intact......Wife said NNNOOOOO WAAAAAYY .......haha


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Soooo, that means she good with the plan?


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## papawd (Jan 5, 2011)

Yea Dan this would be more serious than the day I came with 2 - 4 wheelers when I said I was going to get a new seat for the one We had, took about 3 months for that one to go away plus alot of mud rides with the kids


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

papawd said:


> I told herover the weekend we could cut down Pear tree and put a 50'x 50' bldg. 20x30 place to put the boat and such the rest will be a shop and the old game room remains intact......Wife said NNNOOOOO WAAAAAYY .......haha



I cannot see anything wrong with that plan.......:sarcastic:


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> I cannot see anything wrong with that plan.......:sarcastic:


He forgot to mention the solarium/greenhouse/potting shed off one side...:sold:


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## Knothead47 (Feb 10, 2010)

> I told herover the weekend we could cut down Pear tree and put a 50'x 50' bldg. 20x30 place to put the boat and such the rest will be a shop and the old game room remains intact......Wife said NNNOOOOO WAAAAAYY .......haha
> 
> 
> > Why did you tell her?:big_boss:
> > Remember, the man might be the head of the house, but the neck turns the head!


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