# Any suggestion for a Dovetail Jig?



## volunteers (Mar 4, 2011)

I don't do many dovetail, maybe several times a year for small furniture. I used to use hand saw and chisel to make it. It is kind of painful. 
I just bought a Craftsman router last weekend. I searched online and found too many dovetail jigs, templates. A lot of them are over $100. I don't need that kind of professional one for my work. Any suggestion for my case? Is a template enough for me? 

Thanks.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

40.oo dollars dovetail jig, by the way this jig will do both types of dovetails..
The General Tools & Instruments Newsroom | The EZ Pro Dovetail Jig Instructional Videos

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volunteers said:


> I don't do many dovetail, maybe several times a year for small furniture. I used to use hand saw and chisel to make it. It is kind of painful.
> I just bought a Craftsman router last weekend. I searched online and found too many dovetail jigs, templates. A lot of them are over $100. I don't need that kind of professional one for my work. Any suggestion for my case? Is a template enough for me?
> 
> Thanks.


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## bobfowler (Mar 10, 2010)

I'm kinda partial to the ChestMate myself.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

I think the first question you need to ask yourself is whether you want to do only half-blind DTs or also through DTs. Then, do you want them all with fixed spacing, or do you want adjustable spacing. Fixed spacing imposes limitations on the width of the stock, so as to conform to the geometry of the jig. Adjustable spacing removes that limitation, but introduces much greater complexity of set-up. 

Then, there's the whole issue of fiddle factor. The better jigs are designed to minimize that as much as possible, while still providing flexibility. It's a time-spent versus money-spent sort of issue, I think. 

That said, I'm a fan of the Porter Cable 4212, which has templates for both 1/4" and 1/2" DTs in thin and thick stock, correspondingly, and does half-blind and through DTs, as well as box joints.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Hi Will,
For a jig I use the PC. Once you remember some simple rules to go by it is a simple & quick jig to use.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Will

I use the Katie jig, no rules just pop the bit in the router table or you can use your hand router as well ,and make the all parts for drawers/boxes in about 2 mins.or less..

New Katie Jig w/Bars-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

Organic Half-Blind Dovetail Katie Jig Plate-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

Box Joint Tuning Forks-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

Katie Jig Forks-Sommerfeld's Tools For Wood

Just a note ...You can make your own very easy and cheap.  so to say you don't need to put out 240.oo bucks for one.


" Dovetail jigs are like soft drinks-there are so many choices that selecting one for your shop can be tough. 
To make this process simpler for you, here are eight great reasons why the Katie Jig is your best bet:

1. No complicated assembly-Just take it out of the box and use it immediately. No alignment.
2. No lengthy manual to read-Just a few pages of clear, easy-to-follow directions show you how to use the jig to achieve professional results.
3. Only one set-up necessary to cut pins & tails-All other dovetail jigs need two set-ups to complete both parts of a joint.
4. Hand-held or router table operations-Works equally well using either method of operation.
5. The perfect glue gap of .006"-010"-between pins & tails is produced by matched bits & guides.
6. Hassel-free variable spacing-Just choose your guide/tuning for positions and go to work. 
Even use different thickness boards with no ill effects.
7. Handles stock up to 12" wide-more than wide enouh for all but the latest projects.

Quality constructions ensures unwavering precision and long-term durability. 
While many dovetail/box joint jigs are made of steel rods or bars (poor choices for precison), the Katie Jig uses rigid, engineered extrusions that are manufactured to + .002 tolerances, from high quality aluminum...then gold anodized for lasting dependability. 
These super-rigid extrusions and close tolerances make the Katie Jig virtually vibration-proof and enable it to maintain the .006"-.010" pin/tail glue gap clearances that result in perfect, tight-fitting joints...Every time!

Set Includes: Pre-assembled Jig w/ *(9) 5/8" dovetail guide/tuning forks * (2) edge stops * 7/16" Dovetail Router Bit * 5/8" Pattern Bit * 5/32" Allen Wrench * Written Instructions. "
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## Kelly Rittgers (Aug 6, 2010)

what do you do when you need new backer boards on Katie. Make your own?


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Will
> 
> I use the Katie jig, no rules just pop the bit in the router table or you can use your hand router as well ,and make the all parts for drawers/boxes in about 2 mins.or less..


If you want a symmetrical joint the rule you need to follow is for drawer sizing so you end up with the traditional half-pins top & bottom. This pretty much applies to all jigs that use a fixed template to follow. The next step up would be the variable spacing jigs but they will require a little more setup. You cannot get the thin pins or tails with jigs as you can with a hand cut joint because you can only go as thin as the shank of the bit. So it all comes down to how much time you are willing to invest in your joints to get the look that you want.

"The Porter-Cable 4200 series dovetail jig will help you cut these joints efficiently. An accessory kit will enable you to
cut miniature versions of these joints for small gift boxes or cubbyhole drawers on a roll-top desk. The 4200 series
also has the capability to cut more advanced joints (dovetails that skip pins, wood hinges, end-to-end joints, various
types of angle joints, and joints with inlays)."


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## Dovetailer59 (Mar 11, 2011)

I think you should go for the Porter Cable 4200 series. You can start with the 4210 for not much over $100 and then buy additional templates when you need them.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi KR

Yes, very easy to replace one but it will be a long time for that job.. 

Just a note you are not locked into one pattern the Katie jig comes with spacers or you can make your own to setup any pattern  like on long dovetail if you want to..or one or two dovetails and than put in a box joint in the same board like say in the corners of the box or drawer.
The neat thing about the Katie jig ,if you need the box to slide in a hole all the parts are cut to the right size, no math needed , just cut the parts and it will fit in the hole every time...if you want to used guides for the drawers just cut the stock 1" shorter for the guides to sit in the hole also. 

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Kelly Rittgers said:


> what do you do when you need new backer boards on Katie. Make your own?


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## Nailbender5 (Sep 8, 2009)

*dove tail jigs*



volunteers said:


> I don't do many dovetail, maybe several times a year for small furniture. I used to use hand saw and chisel to make it. It is kind of painful.
> I just bought a Craftsman router last weekend. I searched online and found too many dovetail jigs, templates. A lot of them are over $100. I don't need that kind of professional one for my work. Any suggestion for my case? Is a template enough for me?
> 
> Thanks.


 After buying a delta jig and suffering through the set up and the frustration and also having done dove tails by hand I have found the fastest and easiest way is to do them on the table saw. It easy to make a jig for it and goes alot faster. One thing you might do if you use your table saw, is to take an old blade in to get sharpened at the angle u use for your dove tails. That sharpeing is ALOT less expensive than a store bought jig and the templates.

Just a thought 
Nailbender5


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Hi Bob

Can you point me to any pics showing the copying of the forks from a proper original please? I'd previously downloaded pretty much every pic I could find re the Katie jig you built, but I can't find much on actually making the forks from the purchased master.

Cheers

Peter


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Hi Will:



volunteers said:


> ...I don't need that kind of professional one for my work. Any suggestion for my case? Is a template enough for me?


send me a PM with your direct e-mail address and I'll send you a copy of my dovetail notes. It might help with the decision process.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Easy stuff  once you have one of the master fingers, rip up some 1/2" thick stock stock to the right width ,the same as the master,cut up some to the right length , take a pencil and mark the stock, than drill a hole in the same spot as the master (use a Allen flat head cap screw) pop in a trim bit in the router table or use a ski jig to cut out the copy of the finger master, you have it done...make more than you need you will be glad you did ,if down the road you want a jig for long stock ( 24" stuff) blanket cress ,toy box, etc. the spacers canbe 1",2",4"6", etc. so you can put in 6 dovetails in a 24" wide board..very easy stuff.

Note rip up some of the same stock for the 1" wide for the spacers with the same hole drilled in them also..

Bit's needed for dovetail jig ▼
http://cgi.ebay.com/5pc-Top-Bearing...520814629?pt=Routers_Bits&hash=item20b7b17825

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istracpsboss said:


> Hi Bob
> 
> Can you point me to any pics showing the copying of the forks from a proper original please? I'd previously downloaded pretty much every pic I could find re the Katie jig you built, but I can't find much on actually making the forks from the purchased master.
> 
> ...


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## istracpsboss (Sep 14, 2008)

Thanks Bob. I'm slowly getting the idea. I was concerned about holding blank and master while machining, even screwed together, as they are only about 4" x 1", which doesn't give much to hold onto, even with my small part holder, but I'm thinking of ganging up the blanks and fixing them to a board from underneath, making sure no fixings are likely to get hit, then moving the master from one blank to the next. That way the blanks shouldn't move.

Has anyone else here made these ?

Cheers

Peter


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

It's not a job for the novice but you can make a tall block to keep your fingers out of the path of the bit, a little bit of tape and the Allen bolt will do the job..I would say a copy of a hand saw handle for a holding block would work well with a longer Allen bolt doing the work.
BUT if you hear that little voice saying NO NO ,stop and just buy one, it's not worth your finger.. 

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istracpsboss said:


> Thanks Bob. I'm slowly getting the idea. I was concerned about holding blank and master while machining, even screwed together, as they are only about 4" x 1", which doesn't give much to hold onto, even with my small part holder, but I'm thinking of ganging up the blanks and fixing them to a board from underneath, making sure no fixings are likely to get hit, then moving the master from one blank to the next. That way the blanks shouldn't move.
> 
> Has anyone else here made these ?
> 
> ...


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