# Pore Filling with Finish



## jimcrockett (Jan 18, 2006)

All you experienced finishers out there -

When finishing a porous wood such as walnut, oak, mahogany, etc. how do you fill the pores? I've read about filling them with finish (shellac, varnish...) and the author always says that after the finish dries to "sand back" to level the finish. However, I have never found a definition of "sanding back". Do you add several coats, then sand through them until you achieve a level finish - doesn't this leave obvious marks on your finished product even if you add an additional coat after "sanding back"? 

Please explain this to me. Also, when sanding the finish on a swirling grain pattern, how is it possible to sand "with the grain"?

Thanks,

Jim


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## Rolf Maxa (Feb 8, 2005)

You may want to check one of your woodworking supply stores like Woodcraft. They carry wood pore filler, either water base or oil base. You will need to apply with the grain and remove against the grain being careful not to pull the filler out of the pores. Then you can apply whatever finish you want. If you check some pasted issues of Fine Woodworking you can get more detail. I'm currently working on a Walnut Dining Room table. Let me know if you have any further questions.


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

The finish I use to fill the grain is shellac (no witness marks) but it takes a lot of sanding. Pore(grain) filler is much faster and easier, if you don't have experience use the oil- much longer open time. If you intend coloring the wood you will need to do so before filling the grain,or glaze between coats of finish.

Jerry


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## jerryc (Nov 27, 2007)

One method of grain filling is, as Jerry Mayfield says, to use shellac. However when I need to fill grain I mix in some talc with the shellac. It is colourless in itself, so takes up the shellac and imparts a great glow.I have to admit shellac is my favourite finish.

I am a great believer in several thin coats rather than a few gloopy coats. This way it dries faster and I have no problems with streaks in the finish. Sorry I don't know about pound cuts. My simple method is the one an old antique finisher taught me back in the UK. Just put the flakes in a jar and just cover them with meth. If it's too thick just add more meth. When applying shellac I put down the first coat or two with a brush and I'm not over fussy about how it goes on. My brush is a cheap varnish brush. The purpose is to raise the grain. This I sand back and after that I do very little sanding. Also I'm not fussy about cleaning the surface of the work after the first sanding. A quick once over with the hand brush removes the very loose sanding debris. What's left happily sits in the pores. After all it is no more than a little wood dust and shellac. The first coats are applied with a brush because the rough grain tends to wear the face of the rubber. Then the rest is done with the rubber. I have a general purpose rubber and a finishing rubber. The GP is the applicator and the finishing rubber which is used just with meth, is used to correct any problems and, as it's name suggests to smooth the surface of the shellac on the final coats.

Jerry

War does not decide who is right. War only decides who is left


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## jerrymayfield (Sep 25, 2004)

The way that filing the grain is often described in french polishing is to use pumice and shellac to fill the grain. What ever works. Shellac is also my favorite finish.

Regards

Jerry


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

If you watch Norm A. of the NYWS as I do you will see him do this all the time on his show on many,many projects 

He has the Pro's on his team...backing him up.

Here's link to his projects.
http://www.newyankee.com/byCategory.php?Tables

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## Rolf Maxa (Feb 8, 2005)

Norm has been known to use Oil Based filler depending on the wood and the project. Check out Shop Notes select Finishes and look for Professional finishes. He explains his process for finishing a cherry table


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