# Arrowhead Display Case



## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

Arrowhead Display Case

I have another hobby called flintknapping. (Making stone arrowheads) I bought an arrowhead shaped display case that I really like. Very well made. However, I would like to make my own. Would probably make 10 to 12 at least. I am looking for suggestions on how to create the edges with a router if possible. I don't think mine was made with a router though. The overall length on this is 17". The width at it's widest part is 11-1/4". It is 1" thick. I believe it to be 1/4" walnut laminated to a 3/4" Pine? The centerline of the edge is very straight as would be a well made arrowhead. It is beveled on both edges with the most bevel on the topside. The centerline is about 3/16" to 1/8" from the bottom. Any thoughts/ideas appreciated. Thanks! Mike


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Mike.

It appears to me that the top may have been made with a router and template but the side appear to have been cut with a gauge? sp?


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## TRBaker (Jul 5, 2012)

I think James is right. It looks like it was done with a gouge. However you could achieve the same effect with a round cutter in a Dremel tool or with an old fashion pocket knife.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> It appears to me that the top may have been made with a router and template but the side appear to have been cut with a gauge? sp?


+1 on James with routing the top and the sides with a "gouge"...








But you could also get that type of chinking affect in a controlled manner by using a drum sander.

Another way would be using a burr or rotary rasp in a 1/4 inch rotary tool (example- Makita GD0800C 1/4-Inch Die Grinder). There is also sanding drums for rotary tools.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

After you get the rough shape with your router and templates, a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a surface conditioning disc might be a quick and easy way to go for the 'carving'. These guys remove material fast.

http://www.amazon.com/Norton-20X-Performance-Flap-Disc/dp/B002G9U42M


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

*Upon closer examination...*



kp91 said:


> After you get the rough shape with your router and templates, a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a surface conditioning disc might be a quick and easy way to go for the 'carving'. These guys remove material fast.
> 
> Amazon.com: Norton 20X High Performance Abrasive Flap Disc, Type 27, Threaded Hole, Fiberglass Backing, Zirconia Alumina, 7" Dia., 40 Grit (Pack of 1): Industrial & Scientific


Taking a much closer look at the piece, I can see by the cutting/grinding marks left, it was done with some sort of rotary device as mentioned in the above suggestions. I'm thinking now that if I made an angle jig of some type, (or three different angle jigs)to cut at say three slightly different angles, I could hold the piece in hand and move it forward over the cutting device, I might get the wanted effect. Maybe even use my radial arm saw to pull the blade over the part held in a moveable jig of some type. Any thoughts on a jig of some sort to accomplish this? Thanks for the suggestions already given. I'm just brainstorming right now. :yes4: ...Mike


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## TRBaker (Jul 5, 2012)

Mike, keep brainstorming but forget the RAS and jig idea. I would give the same advice to someone trying to drive four penny nails with a ten pound sledge hammer....You are about to mess your fingers up.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

The scallops could have been made with sanding drums, however, they appear to have very even spaceing and depth to have been done by hand. Still, it could be done with good layout lines to work to. I can't tell if the edges are done that way. They seemed to be flatter but sanding drums applied at different angles could stil do a similar job.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Drum sanding for a unique edge is quick and easy. I made this in 1975 and am still pleased when I look at it.


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## JudgeMike (Feb 27, 2012)

*Drum Sanding*



Mike said:


> Drum sanding for a unique edge is quick and easy. I made this in 1975 and am still pleased when I look at it.


Very interesting... Never used a drum sander. Was the sander you used mounted in a drill press? I'm guessing you could also mount it in a Dremel type hand held tool? Probably use a very course grit? Would one sanding disk last for a project like mine, or do they wear quickly? Just curious. Thanks!


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Mike, you need a drill press for large scallops like the ones on the plaque but for small ones a hand drill would do the job. Everybody sells sanding drum kits, just browse the sites to find the best deal. The trick to getting longer life out of your sanding drums, disks and belts is to use a cleaner like the one shown here from Harbor Freight. Other companies sell exactly the same thing but for more money. You can triple the life of your sanding media by using one of these cheap solutions.


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## JimBDL (Jul 6, 2012)

+1 on the giant eraser. I sometimes use the round end of the belt sander
to contour a project. With layout lines as chuck suggested. Wear gloves.
It will get away from ya.


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