# For BobJ3 (Mr. Jigs)



## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Making progress, but that was an understatement when you said it was a lot of holes.

14X20 inches and 247 holes drilled twice. WHEW! I know I went a little overkill on the holes, but I have a reason for going ahead and drilling them all now instead of later. The poly is on now and drying over night. Tomorrow I hope to cut some dowels and make the skis then I am done and ready for action :nhl_checking:

Whatcha think?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

WOW Bob

When you said you are going to make one, wow,, you did a great job and I'm sure you to glad you did drill all the holes,,I ran into many times I wish I had gone the extra step and drilled more holes than I did in my board..

And I see the lines, you will glad you have them in place the 1st.time you go to place the blank on the board and the template frame holder..
Most will say why do I need all the lines,it makes so easy to line things up most boards are not always the same size, with the lines it no big deal to setup about any size blank boards..

I know Harry will say it's waste of time because he just puts down some scrap stock and puts the holding frame down in place,but I use the ski jig for so many other jobs..where I use the side edges of the holding board to guide the skis in a true line, just like a router table upside down...

==== :yes4:

Just add on Note,,,Nck said something in a post that I have been thinking about,( Graph Paper), I did try it but the paper just didn't stand up well but it would help to lay out the drill pattern,some may not want the lines on the board to show, it's true you can pickup some graph paper from the office supply outlet but you can print out your own for free, with the free software below..it will take a overlay of 4 them the normal board unless you have a Big printer or a plotter printer or you can get to a copier that can blow it up to the size you need..

Free Online Graph Paper / Grid Paper PDFs
http://incompetech.com/graphpaper/




Bob said:


> Making progress, but that was an understatement when you said it was a lot of holes.
> 
> 14X20 inches and 247 holes drilled twice. WHEW! I know I went a little overkill on the holes, but I have a reason for going ahead and drilling them all now instead of later. The poly is on now and drying over night. Tomorrow I hope to cut some dowels and make the skis then I am done and ready for action :nhl_checking:
> 
> Whatcha think?


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

Very impressive Bob. I can just imagine the time it took, even with a drill press.

Bill


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Bob, 

Great job. A suggestion, you might want to use a "sharpie" marker to retrace your lines. On some of my jigs, I like to see the "quadrants" better than what a pencil can do.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Oh Oh... I think I drew my lines on the wrong side of the board and used them for my drilling points.

Oh well.... back to the drawing board (pun intended) :'(


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

Yep I saw that hahahahahahaha LOL but didn't want to say anything..I drilled the small 1/8" hole 1st. then filp the board over to drill the pocket holes out ..
I always like to use a pilot hole to drill out the bigger holes..I'm lazy  then dill them out to the right size for the tee nuts for a press fit..,I should note I clipped off the sharp point on the tee nuts they like to split the wood and it's hard to get them to go into MDF..all the way.. a little bit of glue and they will stay in just fine and the little bit left on will hold it from turning..
I recall walking around the shop with a magnet picking up the 300 points all over the floor..I used a pair of wire cutters/side cutters to remove the points.. 




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Bob said:


> Oh Oh... I think I drew my lines on the wrong side of the board and used them for my drilling points.
> 
> Oh well.... back to the drawing board (pun intended) :'(


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Let's see.... 247 t-nuts times 3 sharp points each.:shout:

What do you use to clip the points with? 

Yep, glue is the ticket to hold them in place, but I'm not sure even that will be necessary for me. I am thinking to start with of just inserting them as needed and removing them when done. Got to think that one thru a little more I'm sure.

Now I gotta go figure how to clip points... what next :cray:

You sure know how to keep a monkey busy :jester:


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bob

Good pair of wire cutters will do the trick 

But go ahead and put them all in place,,,once in place you have it done..and it never falls you need the hole where you didn't put one in..
But you may not need the ones in the center of the board the norm..unless you are going to do some real small stuff,,,I should say I made a part for the MilesCraft sign pro. that had a slot that was 1/8" wide and 1 1/8" long and a recess for the screw head in some 1/4" thick hardwood...for a adjustment bar stop..
and that little job would be imposable/or very hard without the ski jig..and the hold down board..

" what next " finding a place to hang it when you don't need to use it, or put on the drop in block on the back side so you use it in your router table..or a 3 layer work block,, so you can have all the room you need on top of your OP table.. that's to say a boards that's 24" x 28" or longer and a block under it that's 11" x 11" that will just drop in the hole of your router table..no clamps needed to hold it in place, the norm..


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Bob said:


> Let's see.... 247 t-nuts time 3 sharp points each.:shout:
> 
> What do you use to clip the points with?
> 
> ...


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Bob,

great job. it hurts just looking at all the holes. how long did that take.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi levon, it took about an 1 1/2 hours and I have a pretty fancy Woodpecker drill table with fence and stops. Of course I like to work slow and enjoy the journey.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

What a wonderful job you've made of it Bob. Marking the squares should be simple, two strips of MDF the length of the board and it's width exactly the same as the distance between the centre of the holes. Place the first one at the edge and draw a line, put the second one against the first and draw a line and keep repeating this, then repeat at right angles. This will be more accurate than just holding a straight edge in line with the centre of the holes, which aren't just pin holes.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> WOW Bob
> 
> When you said you are going to make one, wow,, you did a great job and I'm sure you to glad you did drill all the holes,,I ran into many times I wish I had gone the extra step and drilled more holes than I did in my board..
> 
> ...


Of course I won't say it's a waste of time Bj, for most of my projects I do use one of my many jigs with cams, but when I do a project for the forum, I often use the four pieces of scrap method to show members who may be put off attempting a project by the thought of having to go through what Bob has just done. Long live the cam jig!


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Nice job, Bob.

Did you name the jig Evander? (as in holey field)


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Ralph Barker said:


> Nice job, Bob.
> 
> Did you name the jig Evander? (as in holey field)


Awesome pun, Ralph!


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Ralph....

You keep me smiling :sarcastic:


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

Bob said:


> Let's see.... 247 t-nuts times 3 sharp points each.:shout:
> 
> What do you use to clip the points with?
> 
> ...


hi Bob,

couldnt you just insert a long screw from the wrong end and put it in vice grips and put that delta grinder on low and touch it to the wheel? it seems a lot faster?


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

Don't forget a lock nut on that long screw. :yes4:


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

Ralph Barker said:


> Don't forget a lock nut on that long screw. :yes4:


hi Ralph, i would put at least two regular nuts and lock them together or the lock nut. you could use several nuts to get a good grip. i have been leary of doing this in the past, but smoothened the ends of some threaded rod the other day. the slow speed grinders work better. but at 3450 rpms it would be a projectile.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi levon
Just a butt in post I think 

You can buy the tee nuts without the sharp points but they are not cheap,,you can use the grinder and it will do the job but it takes a long time to screw them on the bolt and then take them off...and you want that little sharp point when your done removing the bulk of the point..I hold the side cutter at a small angle to get that sharp point back in place,it's true it's only less than a 1/8" long but it will dig in and lock the tee nut in place and keep it from spinning, it's very quick click,click,click and it's done... 



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levon said:


> hi Bob,
> 
> couldnt you just insert a long screw from the wrong end and put it in vice grips and put that delta grinder on low and touch it to the wheel? it seems a lot faster?


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## larryc (Mar 23, 2008)

Well I went all through this thread and can't seem to find what this holey mess is for.
Somebody please direct me to the original thread.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Here ya go Larry

http://www.routerforums.com/portable-routing/13243-levon.html


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Why not just leave the tips on? You intend on leaving these in place correct? I'm thinkin I may have missed something.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ken

The long tips on the tee nuts don't like to go in the stock easy (MDF)  without using a big hammer and driver...( 10-24 machne screw..)then you take a big chance of damaging the threads when you drive them in place..

A nice press fit will do the job..the norm..
MDF is funny stuff to work with,,it will not move out of the way like real wood will..do this just for kicks ,drive in a dry wall screw with a hammer into some MDF and then do it the same way in some pine/poplar ..,in the pine it will go right in the mdf it may just break off the screw b/4 it goes in all the way.. 

=







Hamlin said:


> Why not just leave the tips on? You intend on leaving these in place correct? I'm thinkin I may have missed something.


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

All I have to say is y'all make the COOLEST stuff!! I've made a couple of the simple jigs I've found here on the forums, but wouldn't even think of attempting that ski jig. I just want to know where yall have all the space to store all the jigs!!
Bill


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bill

Thanks,, most of the jigs are hanging on the wall (s) 3 or 4 deep  hahaha

The ski jig is one of the easy ones to make..and it's so handy ..I know Harry will say use solid rods and I agree it's the best way but it's not cheap like threaded rod is..you can make one for about 10.oo bucks for the hardware and some scrap wood you have around the shop,, you will be glad you did.. 


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gazippoman said:


> All I have to say is y'all make the COOLEST stuff!! I've made a couple of the simple jigs I've found here on the forums, but wouldn't even think of attempting that ski jig. I just want to know where yall have all the space to store all the jigs!!
> Bill


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Bill
> 
> Thanks,, most of the jigs are hanging on the wall (s) 3 or 4 deep  hahaha
> 
> ...


Bob, I'm not that advanced with a router yet. I'm trying to finish my router top and build a fence before I do anything else. THEN I'm going to attempt to make a box joint jig for something the wife wants me to make. I'm taking baby steps at this point. A lot of desire, too little time, money and ability!

Bill


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Bill 

I would recommend you send off the box joint jigs from OP,,one of the best jigs they sale, and at a good price,, do get all 3 of them,,,I know it's 60 bucks but it's worth the price ..you will be glad you did,, it's true you can make your own but the OP ones almost the same price as if you made your own from square one ..maybe a little bit less.. 
You can put in box joints all day long and they will always be right on..

Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue
Oak Park Enterprises Ltd.: Catalogue

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gazippoman said:


> Bob, I'm not that advanced with a router yet. I'm trying to finish my router top and build a fence before I do anything else. THEN I'm going to attempt to make a box joint jig for something the wife wants me to make. I'm taking baby steps at this point. A lot of desire, too little time, money and ability!
> 
> Bill


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Bill
> 
> I would recommend you send off the box joint jigs from OP,,one of the best jigs they sale, and at a good price,, do get all 3 of them,,,I know it's 60 bucks but it's worth the price ..you will be glad you did,, it's true you can make your own but the OP ones almost the same price as if you made your own from square one ..maybe a little bit less..
> You can put in box joints all day long and they will always be right on..
> ...


Bob, I've looked at those several times. But I thought those would be pretty easy to make using readily available UHMW. Am I wrong about that? Now, the widest sheet I can get is 4" instead of 6". How hard is UHMW to router?
Thanks
Bill


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Bill

It mills very easy but it's tricky stuff...it almost rips it out and you end up with a lot of strings...some one on the forum made one in the last 2 weeks for 1/4" I think and he did a great job..but you need to do the math and see what way is cheaper...I did it one time and it was so close that I just got the set from OP...you need to start off with 1/2" thick stock and then rip some off right on the button ( 1/4",3/8"/1/2" ) then put in a dado slot right on the button...no glue will hold it place so it needs to be in a blind dado ,,,the only time a broke a bit I was doing just that and it snap the bit right off, a 30.oo bit on top of that..  it's the strings that lock the bit up..

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gazippoman said:


> Bob, I've looked at those several times. But I thought those would be pretty easy to make using readily available UHMW. Am I wrong about that? Now, the widest sheet I can get is 4" instead of 6". How hard is UHMW to router?
> Thanks
> Bill


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Just an update.....

I got my lines drawn on the front side this time where they should have been to start with and a couple of coats of shellac over them to protect them. Sharpee did not work well as it wants to bleed. Pencil is the best route to go. I have a guide on my metal ruler so it was not to bad getting things lined up properly, but still a bit of a pain.

Only had about 150 t-nuts on hand so I clipped, hammered and glued them into the back side and placed an order for 200 more today so I will have pleanty of extras on hand for future projects if needed. Clipping those little pointers with the wire snips was easy enough, just a little time consuming is all. Following Bj's advice pays dividends on this, so if you make one, go by his tips guys. This jig/fixture/holder is a time consuming project, but well worth the effort and I want to make it right and make it to last. 

Looks like it will be Monday before I can finish this up so I will proceed to the skis at this time.


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## gazippoman (Feb 13, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> HI Bill
> 
> It mills very easy but it's tricky stuff...it almost rips it out and you end up with a lot of strings...some one on the forum made one in the last 2 weeks for 1/4" I think and he did a great job..but you need to do the math and see what way is cheaper...I did it one time and it was so close that I just got the set from OP...you need to start off with 1/2" thick stock and then rip some off right on the button ( 1/4",3/8"/1/2" ) then put in a dado slot right on the button...no glue will hold it place so it needs to be in a blind dado ,,,the only time a broke a bit I was doing just that and it snap the bit right off, a 30.oo bit on top of that..  it's the strings that lock the bit up..
> 
> ======


BobJ...I could get enough to make 4 jigs for about $40. BUT...if it's going to cost me a $30 bit...it's not much of a savings.

Thanks
Bill


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## Lemuzz (Jul 25, 2008)

bobj3 said:


> HI Bill
> 
> It mills very easy but it's tricky stuff...it almost rips it out and you end up with a lot of strings...some one on the forum made one in the last 2 weeks for 1/4" I think and he did a great job..but you need to do the math and see what way is cheaper...I did it one time and it was so close that I just got the set from OP...you need to start off with 1/2" thick stock and then rip some off right on the button ( 1/4",3/8"/1/2" ) then put in a dado slot right on the button...no glue will hold it place so it needs to be in a blind dado ,,,the only time a broke a bit I was doing just that and it snap the bit right off, a 30.oo bit on top of that..  it's the strings that lock the bit up..
> 
> ======


The feathers left after machining UHMW are easily removed with a De-burring tool. Neat too


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## GBM (Dec 18, 2007)

Bob said:


> Sharpee did not work well as it wants to bleed.


There might be another option for a black line which will hold up well.. even to bleach and acid and things like that ... not that they would see that kind of abuse ...

There is an ink which is formulated to be safe for use on checks... by having ingredients which react with cellulose ... as in wood fiber... so that checks can not be ' washed'... bleaching the proper stuff off them and putting more money than the writer intended... 

There are more than one of these types of inks...but one which came to mind is the one I use in my fountain pen... Noodler's No Feather Ink.... 
This one is made to resist running and spreading on paper at least... and might do well for wood... clearly not a problem with being permanent... but I will try it out on wood as to its ' no feather ' properties as soon as I get a chance... 
Greg


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## dustmaker (May 18, 2009)

Bob, that is one impressive piece of work! The drill press is one area where I am very lacking. I need to build a tabletop/fence someday...I've seen lots of plans over the years but never got around to it. Your thread has inspired me to do something about this...right after I finish the new router table...which is right after my current project (a couple of planters for the Mrs.)...which is right after a host of other honey-doos!


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Frank.... go for it! It is one nice challenge to say the least :wacko:

Greg, thanks for the ink tips. I will have to look into that.


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## SrgB (Nov 16, 2010)

Very impressive Bob.
Thank you!


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Thanks Serg.... It is a process that I hope I never have to repeat


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