# How tight the collet on the bit



## Peteroo (Aug 17, 2011)

Hi 
May I ask if any one knows how tight to make the collet nut on the bit please?
peteroo


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hand tight, but not overtight.

They make the wrenches short for a reason.....


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

You shouldn't turn red in the face or start sweating.


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## Wood Chip (Apr 10, 2011)

No need for teeth-clenching tightness. Keep in mind that the router's direction of rotation will contribute to keeping it tight.

Keep the collet clean and remove the bit when done. If it's left under stress (tight) for any length of time it can warp it out of shape.


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

30"-pounds min.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

All good points. alternatively, consider adding a Musclechuck and follow their directions.


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## GregLittleWoodworks (Dec 9, 2014)

JFPNCM said:


> All good points. alternatively, consider adding a Musclechuck and follow their directions.


I second the Musclechuck. I bought one on the recommendation of a member of this forum and liked it so much that I bought 2 more. I plan to get 2 additional ones for other routers. Saving my pennies...


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## kklowell (Dec 26, 2014)

Wow...those babies are pricey!


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## GregLittleWoodworks (Dec 9, 2014)

kklowell said:


> Wow...those babies are pricey!


Quality is usually pricey but quality makes life easier and lasts longer


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Whilst I agree with all these posts, Jon and Greg really have the definitive answer.


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## tvman44 (Jun 25, 2013)

Musclechuck is the answer if you have a 1/2" router. I have a Musclechuck & love it, wish they made one for 1/4" routers as well.


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## jimbobwood (Feb 15, 2013)

Wow! Very beautiful work. Makes me feel like a "slug."?


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

*How tight is tight?*

As part of the discussion in separate thread, “Decent collet reducer bushings?” the Musclechuck was offered as the best alternative. In my response to one section of the thread (08 April 2105) I mentioned that I was in a discussion with John De Rosa at Musclechuck regarding a 1/4" up cut spiral that began climbing out of the reducing collet while running a ¼” deep dado in an oak slab. The following is a summary of our discussion and the outcome which I believe is more relevant to this thread. I will reference this post in the other thread as well. As an aside, I had advised John of my intention to open this discussion on the forum and am pleased to say he was definitely in favor of the idea and looks forward to the comments. 

As the reducer was correctly positioned in the chuck and tightened to the same extent (T handle Allen wrench) I had used on multiple other ¼” bits (as well as ½” bits) I was concerned that the bit might be undersized. I posed the question to John who requested that I forward the reducer and the bit for inspection. 

John quickly reported back that the reducing collet was “below” spec and promptly replaced it at no charge. The bit was acceptable. I replicated the process described above and the results were the same, the bit began to climb out of the collet in less than 1” of entering the oak. 

This led to a discussion of”how tight is tight” for a Musclechuck with and without a reduction collet. John’s stated preference is 125 inch pounds for ¼” bits in the reduction collet and 115 to 125 for ½” bits in the standard chuck. 

As a preliminary test, I tightened the 1/4” up cut into the reduction collet with the T handle as previously and then checked the torque on the same. The wrench broke at 95 inch pounds, well under John’s recommendations. I tightened the chuck to John’s recommendation and ran a ¼” deep dado through both an oak and a walnut slab each 8” inches long with no difficulty. 

So, where does that leave the issue relative to other recommendations on this thread for “tightening” a collet? I’m not sure but from my perspective I’ll follow John’s recommendation relative to the Musclechuck. 

I’ll close with the comment that I can’t speak highly enough of John’s support in this endeavor as well as his cooperation in trying to reach the most acceptable solution.

Comments?


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Jon, my question would be, "how do I measure 125 inch pounds, I do not have a torque wrench and the only ones I have seen are for automotive use..."


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

jw2170 said:


> Jon, my question would be, "how do I measure 125 inch pounds, I do not have a torque wrench and the only ones I have seen are for automotive use..."


James: The only solution I've found to date is to use a torque wrench as shown in the attached. As this one is a 3/8" drive I'm still looking for a smaller one, but of those I've seen, none cover the torque range required. When and if I'm successful I'll post an update.

Perhaps other members have a better solution.


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

Google Think and Tinker. Their precision collets are used at Mark Adams' school, and it looks like a few others are selling their product. They are ER collets that are designed for CNC precision metal cutting.
Dan Coleman

This will work also: http://www.precisebits.com/gateways/ColletsNutsHome.htm


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## 48394 (Oct 25, 2010)

James,
Search Amazon for 20 - 200 inch pound range; about US $40, 1/4" drive and then there's shipping and fees.
Regis


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> Jon, my question would be, "how do I measure 125 inch pounds, I do not have a torque wrench and the only ones I have seen are for automotive use..."


125 inch lbs is about 10.5 foot lbs, ie 10.5 lbs pull at the end of a foot long wrench.


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

You can convert any you like here: Convert inch pound to foot pounds - Conversion of Measurement Units 
If it were the metric system we might be able to just move decimal points around.

Dan Coleman


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