# Working with Cork



## tak35bne (Jul 23, 2014)

On the fly tying bench I am making I had a thought to adhere cork tiles to the base in order to prevent movement / scratching of tables etc. The question is once the cork is glued in place to the wooden base what is the best way to seal or prevent the cork from cracking or chipping? Is that even possible?

Here is a picture of what I am looking to do.

Dave


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

No reason you couldn't just roll or spray some poly on it. I would try a test piece first, might darken it a bit.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

tak35bne said:


> On the fly tying bench I am making I had a thought to adhere cork tiles to the base in order to prevent movement / scratching of tables etc. The question is once the cork is glued in place to the wooden base what is the best way to seal or prevent the cork from cracking or chipping? Is that even possible?
> 
> Here is a picture of what I am looking to do.
> 
> ...


did the same...1st time I covered 100% of the bottom and used poly...
2nd time only did the corners, centers of each edge and the geometric center of the board... all I had was the drops from the 1st board on hand.. the pieces worked out to be 2.5" square...
sealed it w/ U-40 Cork Seal...
worked out way better the 2nd time...
also tried the stick on sillycone bumpers.. they worked well but the cork lent to so much nicer of a finished board...


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

You might try Cork laminate flooring applied to the base with the cork facing down. Most of these have a clear hard finish infused into the top ~0.5mm. Or you can use regular cork (any other coating might, over time, react with the surface finish) and apply with rubber cement, not contact, so they might be replaced as needed.

Hope this helps,
Baker


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## John Bradshaw (Sep 12, 2010)

I don't think you can preserve the cork. Just glue around the edge is my advice, so you won't tear up much when you replace.


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## Tom in indy (Oct 29, 2009)

Stick486 said:


> did the same...1st time I covered 100% of the bottom and used poly...
> 2nd time only did the corners, centers of each edge and the geometric center of the board... all I had was the drops from the 1st board on hand.. the pieces worked out to be 2.5" square...
> sealed it w/ U-40 Cork Seal...
> worked out way better the 2nd time...
> also tried the stick on sillycone bumpers.. they worked well but the cork lent to so much nicer of a finished board...


Ditto on the U-40, that is what we use on the cork handles of Custom fishing rods.
helps keep them clean and protected.


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## stanzee (Dec 9, 2010)

Tom in indy said:


> Ditto on the U-40, that is what we use on the cork handles of Custom fishing rods.
> helps keep them clean and protected.


My thoughts (without experience) on U-40 are: If it makes the surface of the cork hard then it might scratch the table surface the same as if it was wood. If it penetrates the pores of the cork and the feel is as soft as it was before the application then I think that would be the way to go.

Just my thoughts on the subject.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

stanzee said:


> My thoughts (without experience) on U-40 are: If it makes the surface of the cork hard then it might scratch the table surface the same as if it was wood. If it penetrates the pores of the cork and the feel is as soft as it was before the application then I think that would be the way to go.
> 
> Just my thoughts on the subject.


soaks into the cork and the surface tension of the cork stays pliable..


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## Tom in indy (Oct 29, 2009)

There are several different cork sealers.
here is a link to the U-40.

U-40 Cork Seal


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