# Recommendation from the Scroll Saw'ers...?



## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

I'm thinking of getting a scroll saw...don't have a specific project in mind but it will make small stuff, I'm sure...16-20" size, I suppose...?

If I were to look for a used machine, what are the more desirable models to look for...? 

Thanks in advance...


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I have the Dewalt 788 and like it a lot. I am not a scrollsawer, but I like it better than the fist one I bought, a Hagner.
HErb


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I'm thinking about getting one too. Anyone ever use a Makita? There's one about 16" and older for sale for $175 on one of our marketplace sites.


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## Bstrom (Jan 2, 2020)

I just did some review searches today and the feedback from some owners leaves none of the current models with a lot to look forward to owning - it's a made in China issue apparently. Inconsistent quality is what some end up with and poor customer service adding salt to the wound.


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## dman2 (Sep 4, 2019)

My Dewalt 788 works well. No vibration to speak of. I haven't done a lot, but here are a few items it produced...


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Cast iron table is a biggie. (Unless it's an RBI Hawk, then the thick aluminum is just fine)

I like the older Delta's (18 & 20 inch). They weigh a ton and have low vibration. Even though they are 30+ years old there are a lot of parts still available. If you keep your eyes open you can get a lot of saw for under $200. 

Whatever saw you are looking at, it's worth the 5 minutes to see how easy it is to get parts from eBay or ereplacementparts.com

The blade clamps on my Delta Q3 saws I can still find on eBay, and the hawk still has parts available online.

I still want an old powermatic or Rockwell saw... but I don't have the floor space for it....yet


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

If the upper arm and blade is powered up and down as well as the lower arm, it is probably a good saw. If the upper arm and end of the saw blade is pulled back up by a spring, the saw is a candidate for being a door stop. That was the final purpose of my spring return jig saw (won't even call it a scroll saw). When it was no god as a door stop, it went to metal salvage.

A DeWalt 788 is what I have and I've been quite pleased with it. I've re-built it 2 times now, replacing most of the bearings each time.

Delta now offers a similar saw to the 788, and I own a lot of old Delta tools, but refuse to buy from the new Delta Tool Company because of parts and warranty problems. They are trying, but are far from being a good company to do business with, in my opinion. 

Excaliber has had it's own problems too. But recently, they are back selling a similar saw to the DeWalt, again. They had a very good saw, but I don't know how the latest versions are doing.

Then there is the RBI saw by Bushton. The more recent variable speed models are supposed to be quite good. Some people like them. I'm just not a fan of their saws.

Right now, if I was to buy a new scroll saw, it would likely be a Pegas saw, but they aren't cheap. If price is really important, I would consider DeWalt, or maybe the Delta, but only because it is made much like the DeWalt 788, and I know how to get better bearings cheaper than their parts suppliers offer. Jet offers a scroll saw now, as does Seyco, but they aren't budget priced saws either, and I have no personal experience with either of them.

Just avoid the saws with the spring return on the blade, and you will likely have a pretty good scroll saw.

If you want to hook up with the scroll saw experts, consider joining www.scrollsawvillage.com. You will find me there too, but also most other serious scroll saw users of the World.

Charley


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I'm thinking about getting one too. Anyone ever use a Makita? There's one about 16" and older for sale for $175 on one of our marketplace sites.


For the price that is a bargain. It has 53% good reviews. I have always had good success with Makita tools, although that was when they were considered top of the line, I don't know where they are now.
Herb

Here is an RBI on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty...429647?hash=item469b40db4f:g:taEAAOSw~fpdUyi5


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

I had an old AMT walking beam scrollsaw I used for years and liked it, lost it in the fire. so bought a used Hagner and didn't like it so gave it away to a member here. and bought a Dewalt. now for the little bit of scrollsaw work I do ,i like it.
HErb


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

I don't know if Rick is still answering emails, but if it's a scrollsaw, he has used it.

https://www.scrollsaws.com/


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Not delta!!!!


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

It's only money, right?
https://www.bearwood.com/pegas-scroll-saw-21-inch-usa.html


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

kp91 said:


> I don't know if Rick is still answering emails, but if it's a scrollsaw, he has used it.
> 
> https://www.scrollsaws.com/


Never heard of a PS Woods Scrollsaw before. They are husky built looks like.
herb


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

I would say I liked my Delta best for the blades (it took pinned, and pinless), but I like my Excalibur's ability to keep my work surface cleaner. I wish my Excalibur took pinned as well as pinless blades (like my old Delta did)

To add to that...

Look at scroll saws like any other tool; what will you be doing with it. If you were going to do detailed/fret work, make sure you get pinless.. my gf had one that was pinned blades only, and she was limited on what she could cut, because, of course with pins, the holes can only be so small to get the blade through.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I'm not a scroller but you folks that are might be interested in these adapters...
Scrollsaw Workshop: Ichthys Scroll Saw Pattern.
https://www.bearwood.com/pegas-chuck-head-replacement-kits.html

Maybe I missed it but I didn't see any mention of pinned blades in there(?), so can we assume that they're designed for pinless blades/ Excalibur, Delta, and Jet are all adaptable, and others as well.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

If you're looking for a used machine, first priority to me would be if it worked or not. Then what would it be used for. I've got a Craftsman I bought new, and on sale, for $35, around 25 years ago. I've never done any detail work with it, just cut out my masters, close to the line, then sand them to final shape. Basically, that is all I use it for. Supposedly it uses both pinned and pinless blades, but all I use is the pinned blades - easier for me to change. Works for me.


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## UlrichJ (Feb 16, 2012)

I have an RBI Hawk I bought about 30 years ago I really like. One of the forum members just bout a used RBI Hawk recently for around $200. I know the DEWALT 788 gets good reviews.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Herb Stoops said:


> I have the Dewalt 788 and like it a lot. I am not a scrollsawer, but I like it better than the fist one I bought, a Hagner.
> HErb



Thanks, Herb...how long have you had the 788...?


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Bstrom said:


> I just did some review searches today and the feedback from some owners leaves none of the current models with a lot to look forward to owning - it's a made in China issue apparently. Inconsistent quality is what some end up with and poor customer service adding salt to the wound.


I also found the reviews not reassuring...the biggest reason for looking for older models...thanks for the review search


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

dman2 said:


> My Dewalt 788 works well. No vibration to speak of. I haven't done a lot, but here are a few items it produced...



Thanks, Dave...one of the things that pushed me over the edge to look for a saw was your original post of the beautiful boxes you made. While some of the ones I've made are good they are nowhere near the look of yours.

If I find the right saw I plan to make box tops (like yours, although not as intricate). Using the saw to make templates comes to mind also...seems it would make that job easier.

Thanks again...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

kp91 said:


> Cast iron table is a biggie. (Unless it's an RBI Hawk, then the thick aluminum is just fine)
> 
> I like the older Delta's (18 & 20 inch). They weigh a ton and have low vibration. Even though they are 30+ years old there are a lot of parts still available. If you keep your eyes open you can get a lot of saw for under $200.
> 
> ...



Thanks, Doug...good recommendation to check on availability of parts for the older saws. I looked for the older Delta's and Rockwell's and found quite a few on Marketplace...all seem reasonably priced.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

CharleyL said:


> If the upper arm and blade is powered up and down as well as the lower arm, it is probably a good saw. If the upper arm and end of the saw blade is pulled back up by a spring, the saw is a candidate for being a door stop. That was the final purpose of my spring return jig saw (won't even call it a scroll saw). When it was no god as a door stop, it went to metal salvage.
> 
> A DeWalt 788 is what I have and I've been quite pleased with it. I've re-built it 2 times now, replacing most of the bearings each time.
> 
> ...



Charley...thank you for all the info. How old is your 788 that it needed bearings...? (couldn't help wondering) Are the new 788's as good as the older ones...?

Are the bearings unique or can one grab the number on the bearing and find them easily...?

And much thanks for the note on the spring return...will definitely keep that top of the list...!

Thanks again for your response...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

kp91 said:


> I don't know if Rick is still answering emails, but if it's a scrollsaw, he has used it.
> 
> https://www.scrollsaws.com/



Thanks for the link, Doug...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> It's only money, right?
> https://www.bearwood.com/pegas-scroll-saw-21-inch-usa.html



Yeah...! I still have one arm and leg left...:grin::grin::grin:


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## roxanne562001 (Feb 5, 2012)

I have an old Craftsman direct drive cast iron I that I have rebuilt several times. New bearings and made a connecting rod out of aluminum. I don't do precision work with it but it has cut lots of toy bodies over the years. I had an old delta that I sold years ago wish I still had that saw. If I was going to buy a new one it would probably be a Dewalt. Look on Facebook Marketplace I find a lot of deals on there for used stuff.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

OutoftheWoodwork said:


> I would say I liked my Delta best for the blades (it took pinned, and pinless), but I like my Excalibur's ability to keep my work surface cleaner. I wish my Excalibur took pinned as well as pinless blades (like my old Delta did)
> 
> To add to that...
> 
> Look at scroll saws like any other tool; what will you be doing with it. If you were going to do detailed/fret work, make sure you get pinless.. my gf had one that was pinned blades only, and she was limited on what she could cut, because, of course with pins, the holes can only be so small to get the blade through.



Thanks, Barb, for the reminder on pin/pinless...good point...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

JOAT said:


> If you're looking for a used machine, first priority to me would be if it worked or not. Then what would it be used for. I've got a Craftsman I bought new, and on sale, for $35, around 25 years ago. I've never done any detail work with it, just cut out my masters, close to the line, then sand them to final shape. Basically, that is all I use it for. Supposedly it uses both pinned and pinless blades, but all I use is the pinned blades - easier for me to change. Works for me.



Thanks, Theo...good reminder that the ole Craftsmans had some value...


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I just wrote to Pegasus because their site was deficient on information. We'll see how fast they reply and what information they provide.

Most of what I've read over the years favors the DeWalt or the Excaliber. Apparently each machine differs in terms of vibraton. You should probably purchase from a source with a good return policy. I have had great CS on returns from Home Depot. The DeWalt is about $562 on HD site. Buy online, deliver at local store.

The Pegasas is $789 online, plus shipping, which varies by your location.

I found an excellent review of several 16 inch scroll saws and two 20 inch saws on the Popular Mechanics site for 2020. The 788 gets a good review there, It also suggests the price should be around $400+, which price I did not find. https://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a143/1274521/

At this point, if I were buying one, I'd probably go for the DeWalt. If it vibrated my teeth loose, I'd return it and get a replacement. The DeWalt has short reciprocating arms which lowers the vibration rate, but I did find that mass helps reduce vibration. In the past, I've seen recommendations for putting sandbags over the base's crossbars to absorb vibration. Looking at parts, I think the DeWalt parts are overpriced and if I used it intensely for years, I'd probably just replace it since there is no rebuild available and I just don't do repairs on tools. If you don't mind, then this is an annoyance.

The only mystery left is will the 788 take pinless and pinned blades. I was unable to find this information. Which is very strange. Anyone know?


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

roxanne562001 said:


> I have an old Craftsman direct drive cast iron I that I have rebuilt several times. New bearings and made a connecting rod out of aluminum. I don't do precision work with it but it has cut lots of toy bodies over the years. I had an old delta that I sold years ago wish I still had that saw. If I was going to buy a new one it would probably be a Dewalt. Look on Facebook Marketplace I find a lot of deals on there for used stuff.



Thanks, Roxanne...I also find lots of goodies on Marketplace...that's where I've started looking for the older saws.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> I'm not a scroller but you folks that are might be interested in these adapters...
> Scrollsaw Workshop: Ichthys Scroll Saw Pattern.
> https://www.bearwood.com/pegas-chuck-head-replacement-kits.html
> 
> Maybe I missed it but I didn't see any mention of pinned blades in there(?), so can we assume that they're designed for pinless blades/ Excalibur, Delta, and Jet are all adaptable, and others as well.



Thanks, Dan...will definitely keep an eye on pin/pinless...(don't think I'll be springing for the Pegas though)


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

DesertRatTom said:


> I just wrote to Pegasus because their site was deficient on information. We'll see how fast they reply and what information they provide.
> 
> Most of what I've read over the years favors the DeWalt or the Excaliber. Apparently each machine differs in terms of vibraton. You should probably purchase from a source with a good return policy. I have had great CS on returns from Home Depot. The DeWalt is about $562 on HD site. Buy online, deliver at local store.
> 
> ...




According to the manual it says "Use only 5" plain end scroll saw blade"...forums I've lurked also say "pinless only"...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Thank you all for your responses...

It looks like the 788 is right up there along with the older Deltas/Rockwells. And not to be outdone, the RBI's...all seem to be in a reasonable price range.

I do see a few 788's for sale on Marketplace...prices seem high though...450-550..."used twice" and other fond statements. Begs the question, how old a 788 should I look for...?

Good thing is that I have time to wait for the right one...in the meantime, research continues...

Thank you for the links to the additional research and forums...


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

The delta 695 is supposed to be a clone of the dewalt and parts are some what inter change able. If you go to scroll saw village the dewalt or delta are the prefered on the low end the delta is about $100 lower. I bought a use Rbi It came with bunch real small blades . Its a real smooth saw the blades I have is for 1/4 stook so need to heavier blades.

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Power-...7558&sprefix=scroll+saw+dewalt,aps,166&sr=8-4
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW788...7471&sprefix=scroll+saw+dewalt,aps,166&sr=8-1


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

roofner said:


> The delta 695 is supposed to be a clone of the dewalt and parts are some what inter change able. If you go to scroll saw village the dewalt or delta are the prefered on the low end the delta is about $100 lower. I bought a use Rbi It came with bunch real small blades . Its a real smooth saw the blades I have is for 1/4 stook so need to heavier blades.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Power-...7558&sprefix=scroll+saw+dewalt,aps,166&sr=8-4
> https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW788...7471&sprefix=scroll+saw+dewalt,aps,166&sr=8-1



Thanks, Gary...appreciate the links...will make sure I visit scroll saw village...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

What do you guys think about an RBI 220VS variable speed, stand, few blades for $335...?

I understand the motor on earlier models was not up to snuff and very expensive to upgrade...you guys know anything about this...? Years involved...?

Thanks


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Nick, You absolutely don't want an old Delta or Rockwell scroll saw. Those old saws have the spring to pull up the blade. Think about it. If you have a mechanism that pushes and pulls the blade up and down from only the bottom, and you bind the blade in the cut, what happens? I'll tell you. The mechanism under the table pushes the blade up anyway, and it buckles and breaks. You will go through many saw blades because of this.

It wasn't until the new design scroll saws came on the market, that you could use smaller blades and they would last, usually until they were too dull to cut any more, and if you keep cutting with a dull blade, you will be pushing the work hard into the blade. It will get hot, loose it's temper, and break. With the new design saws that both pulled the blade down, and also pulled the blade up, saw blades don't break easily any more, and it's possible to use smaller and smaller blades in these new design scroll saws, which then brought on the pin less blades, so smaller start holes can be drilled to allow even finer work. Blades with pins are huge when compared with what I regularly use now. I'm useing mostly a #1R skip tooth. The R version has backwards teeth on the bottom 1" of the blade to reduce splintering of the back of the work as the blade exits.

There are people who cut nickels, dimes, and quarters, leaving the outer edge and the buffalo, face, etc. in the middle to make unique jewelry. 

My most used scroll saw is a DeWalt 788 Type 1. It was made in Canada. The type 2 was made in Taiwan. I believe the type 3 is being made in Mexico. The type 1's are highly sought after, because they were more precisely made and assembled. I believe that the very early type 2 had several early manufacturing problems that got them a bad reputation, because I've used some newer type 2 saws and found nothing wrong with them. I haven't yet seen a type 3, but it likely had some start-up problems with the new manufacturing line too. 

The bearings that seem to wear the most are the larger bearings in the back of the saw. The motor has an offset shaft that functions like a crankshaft in a car. A kind-of connecting rod pushes and pulls on a rocker arm, and there are bearings on both ends of the connecting rod and smaller bearings on the rocker arm. These are the bearings that suffer the most wear. The top and bottom of the rocker arm pushes and pulls long rods that work the short stroke arms that move the blade. All of these pivot points have very tiny needle bearings, and the internal race of these bearings is actually a sleeve that the bearing pivots around. The sleeve has a bolt through it. 

You need to study a DeWalt 788 and try using it to understand how it works, and why this saw design is so much better than those spring return blade mechanisms. Every quality scroll saw that has come out since about 2000 uses this same basic design. Excalibur invented it, then made the saw for DeWalt. The rest is history.

My other Scroll Saw is a Delta 40-650 Q3 scroll saw. It came out in 1997 and was a revelation over most of the other saws on the market. It both pushes and pulls the blade from both top and bottom, but the saw arms form kind-of a large "C" with the blade connected across the opening between the ends of the "C" This C frame pivots from the rear, so the saw blade kind-of rocks forward and backward as it goes up and down. For fast cutting this saw is way faster than the DeWalt 788, because this rocking motion makes the cutting more aggressive. Detailed fine cutting suffers as a result of this, so I use it when I have larger work without the fine details. It's a pretty good saw, but not so much when the smaller finer cutting is desired. The blade clamps tend to be finicky too.
The DeWalt blade clamps are so much easier to use than the ones on this Delta saw. 

Shortly after Delta offered the 40-650, Delta and DeWalt merged. Then, not too long afterward, Delta was sold, but Delta kept the rights to make a saw very similar to the DeWalt saw, and they are selling their version today, cheaper than DeWalt is selling their version, but this new Delta company has had some major quality and CS problems, making many shy away from their products.

Now Jet, Pegus, Seyco, King, and several others are also making similar saws. All of these use the same style blade mechanisms that Excalibur came out with and built for DeWalt. I don't know the reliability of these saws, but all use the same style blade motion and control. To me, DeWalt is the lowest priced when not considering Delta, but for the price, Delta might be worth considering, if you don't have the money for one of the better brands. 

Notice that I haven't said a thing about RBI saws. Some people like them. I don't. I'm a retired EE Automation Engineer, and the RBI saws look and feel like an experimental prototype to me. RBI no longer makes them and a company called Bushton now has the rights to them. I heard that this was a small company owned by a farmer, and when it's crop season, the saw business takes second place. I have never verified this, but it could have something to do with how slowly their product technology progresses.

I've said too much. Go to www.scrollsawvillage.com for more.

Charley


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## dman2 (Sep 4, 2019)

Nickp said:


> Thanks, Dave...one of the things that pushed me over the edge to look for a saw was your original post of the beautiful boxes you made. While some of the ones I've made are good they are nowhere near the look of yours.
> 
> If I find the right saw I plan to make box tops (like yours, although not as intricate). Using the saw to make templates comes to mind also...seems it would make that job easier.
> 
> Thanks again...


Wow! For a newbie like me, this means a lot. Thank you!

Feel free to copy! I've copied ideas to make these projects (hopefully, all referenced). After all,
_and there is no new thing under the sun_ Ecclesiastes 1:9 

I used to use a router bit to clean up templates (as in my tutorial), but using a scroll saw seems more natural. I hope to see your future projects!


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## dman2 (Sep 4, 2019)

dman2 said:


> Wow! For a newbie like me, this means a lot. Thank you!
> 
> Feel free to copy! I've copied ideas to make these projects (hopefully, all referenced). After all,
> _and there is no new thing under the sun_ Ecclesiastes 1:9
> ...


Oh, yes. Look up CharleyL's work. He is the king of scroll saw work, in my opinion.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

WOW...! That is one extensive reply...lots of info to sort through.

I've also noted the difference a few hours of research makes. Since my earlier post I've come to understand your recommendation to beware of the spring models...definitely makes sense. (I really liked your crankshaft analogy, having torn a few connecting rods loose at 8500RPM) :grin:

What all the information you and others have provided has taught me I am nowhere ready to buy. Deals will always come along and I still have shop furniture to build.

I did look through some posts on scrollvillage yesterday and it will be a slow process assimilating all the info. Between that and, hopefully soon, visiting some sellers I hope to know enough to get on the right path.

Charley, I can't thank you enough for all the info you've passed on...it's certainly enough to send me in the right direction.





CharleyL said:


> Nick, You absolutely don't want an old Delta or Rockwell scroll saw. Those old saws have the spring to pull up the blade. Think about it. If you have a mechanism that pushes and pulls the blade up and down from only the bottom, and you bind the blade in the cut, what happens? I'll tell you. The mechanism under the table pushes the blade up anyway, and it buckles and breaks. You will go through many saw blades because of this.
> 
> It wasn't until the new design scroll saws came on the market, that you could use smaller blades and they would last, usually until they were too dull to cut any more, and if you keep cutting with a dull blade, you will be pushing the work hard into the blade. It will get hot, loose it's temper, and break. With the new design saws that both pulled the blade down, and also pulled the blade up, saw blades don't break easily any more, and it's possible to use smaller and smaller blades in these new design scroll saws, which then brought on the pin less blades, so smaller start holes can be drilled to allow even finer work. Blades with pins are huge when compared with what I regularly use now. I'm useing mostly a #1R skip tooth. The R version has backwards teeth on the bottom 1" of the blade to reduce splintering of the back of the work as the blade exits.
> 
> ...


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Every now and again I get the bug to get a nice scroll saw. The 788 is usually the one I can find locally, pricing is always around 400-500 for one in real nice condition. Occasionally I see an RBI for a few hundred more. I can only speak to what I've read about RBI, and for the most part, they are indeed a well established scroll saw. The question for the Dewalts seems to be type 1 or 2.... Ones being the out of the box better unit, but no longer in production and as I understand it, havn't been in production for 15 years or so... the type 2 early on had issues, but have seen been pretty much resolved. Don't know nuttin about type 3's, dont' even know if they are out there yet. A later model type 2 in really nice shape for around 400 is a good deal. Pricing on RBI's is all over depending on age and condition. This has been a most interesting thread, tons of really good information on saws and what to look for and what not to get. If I ever do get one, right now I tend to lean towards a later model 788 type 2. One of these days I'll figure out how to determine what exactly constitutes a later model 


edit: forgot to add that the pricing should be "with" the factory stand...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

TwoSkies57 said:


> Every now and again I get the bug to get a nice scroll saw. The 788 is usually the one I can find locally, pricing is always around 400-500 for one in real nice condition. Occasionally I see an RBI for a few hundred more. I can only speak to what I've read about RBI, and for the most part, they are indeed a well established scroll saw. The question for the Dewalts seems to be type 1 or 2.... Ones being the out of the box better unit, but no longer in production and as I understand it, havn't been in production for 15 years or so... the type 2 early on had issues, but have seen been pretty much resolved. Don't know nuttin about type 3's, dont' even know if they are out there yet. A later model type 2 in really nice shape for around 400 is a good deal. Pricing on RBI's is all over depending on age and condition. This has been a most interesting thread, tons of really good information on saws and what to look for and what not to get. If I ever do get one, right now I tend to lean towards a later model 788 type 2. One of these days I'll figure out how to determine what exactly constitutes a later model
> 
> 
> edit: forgot to add that the pricing should be "with" the factory stand...



In my area the RBI 220VS's are going for $300-400. The problem is identifying whether the machine is in the era that they had motor issues versus the later years when the motors were upgraded. The upgrade is apparently expensive. On the other hand, even those early models are still going strong...so maybe it doesn't matter if it's lasted this long.

From what I've read it's a matter of getting the serial number and contacting Bushton Manufacturing and asking them for any information they can provide for that serial number. Not sure what the history is regarding all the different owners. Scroll Village seems to have all that info...another site to lurk...:smile: Will likely join that forum to do some searching and querying...


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## digitalrust (Sep 12, 2009)

I manage the maker spaces for Hacker Lab, Inc. We offer membership to people who like to make stuff. We provide our members with everything from 3D printers to laser cutters, Shopbot CNC, Tormach CNCs and every common wood working tool you can imagine. Three years ago I was about to buy a new scroll saw for our Sacramento maker space. So I asked Marc Berner, the guy who wrote the book "Scroll Saw Basics" what he recommended. Marc told me I should buy a General International Excalibur EX 21. He told said it would be solid, dependable, be easy to adjust, and it would not break blades as frequently as some of the other scroll saws on the market. He told me it would be a good choice for people who are just starting out and a wonderful saw for members who were experienced and knew their way around a scroll saw. I looked at the Excalibur but I was put off by the price and some negative Amazon reviews. So I kept looking. We have had pretty good luck with Dewalt tools at Hacker Lab. So, I went with the Dewalt 788. The 788 is a great saw if it is properly adjusted, aligned and you install the correct blades for your type and thickness of wood. I recommend Olson scroll saw blades they make a big difference. That being said, looking back, I wish I had purchased the Excalibur. I have had to order parts and repair our Dewalt 788 four times in the last three years. The blade holder in our 788 has not been able to stand up the amount of use it gets. I have had to replace the rocker assembly, the blade chuck, the blade set screws and clamp knobs, and the main power switch. On the on the plus side, there is a Dewalt Service center in Sacramento and I can get parts quickly from ereplacementparts.com. But more than that, beginning scroll saw users have a hard time properly loading blades. They usually over tighten the blades in the holder, get them out of alignment, and then over tension them. When they start cutting they use the highest speed possible so the blade snaps. Looking back if I had it to do over again I would buy a used Excalibur EX21 scroll saw, that is in good condition. I know that Amazon gives the Excalibur only three stars, but the guy who literally "wrote the book" on how to use a a scroll saw thinks they are great.


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## srjaynes49 (Feb 9, 2010)

Here’s an unusual recommendation. I’ve had my stand-alone ShopSmith school saw for 22 years. It’s still smooth and the variable speed is very nice. Sufficient power to cut multi piece stacks effortlessly.


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I see I mistyped the model number for Delta clone 40694 not 695 sorry!! This clone of dewalt .


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@Nickp...

you like road trips...
contact every scroll saw user here - each w/ a different make and model...
test drive them all...
pick the one ya like the best and chase after it...
lots of coffee and donuts should cover the rental fees...


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## CAD-Man (Apr 28, 2013)

I also own a Delta 40-694. As far as I can tell the Delta an Dewalt are the same scroll saw with a little different skin and decals. The parts of both saws are identical and have the same part numbers. My Delta saw sits on a Dewalt stand and fits it perfectly, the Dewalt light attachment also fits the Delta. Save a little money and get the Delta. 

CAD-Man


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Stick486 said:


> @Nickp...
> 
> you like road trips...
> contact every scroll saw user here - each w/ a different make and model...
> ...


I am willing to even let you fire up my 1935 Powr-Kraft scroll saw. She doesn't look like much, but she'll cut just fine.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

kp91 said:


> I am willing to even let you fire up my 1935 Powr-Kraft scroll saw. She doesn't look like much, but she'll cut just fine.



Now that's "ole arn"...:smile:


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

The research is becoming very interesting...it's like "herding cats"...actually, I'm enjoying it.

I thought I'd bring back some info I've found since there's a couple of members interested in a saw...certainly nothing earth-shattering...it's easily found.

Regarding RBI...the company was bought by Bushton Manufacturing. Experiences from members on Scroll Saw Village aren't very good (search on "RBI"). New machines take months to deliver...parts are hard to come by...ordering parts from Bushton seems to take forever...customer service has gone down hill and most times unresponsive since one of the knowledgeable ladies quit to take care of her children...clamps are often made by the owners out of aluminum or spring steel. And other nuisances...some small parts are plastic. I've had interest in RBI because of one feature. The lower blade holder can be moved into one of two positions...one of the positions is for more aggressive cutting and for thicker pieces and stacked wood. Since I would only have one saw, I thought this would help me keep to one saw...maybe that's not good thinking. I'm sure what I've found is old news to you experienced scrollers...

On the other hand, those that have them love them. They get around the Bushton delays easily enough as they have more than one saw. But the one I looked into in PA is being replaced by a Dewalt 788 by its second owner. The saw is about 15 years old. Go figga...

Of course, I could just do what many others do...get off my butt and go out and just buy a new one with an honored warranty. My use in one year is likely to be about a month's worth for some of you. At that rate, the saw will outlive me for sure...:grin:...it's just a thing I have for older USA-made machines.

For those that have made recommendations, please don't think you're being ignored...I enjoy the search and it's a great way to become familiar with a tool I haven't ever used. I am grateful for your interest in getting me started in my education. And thank you for the point to scroll saw village...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@Nickp...

came across these and thought that they may be some use to ya...

.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Nick,

Some people love scroll sawing, and some grow to hate it and never go back. For those of us who put up with many of the short comings of the older saws and kept at it until we upgraded from terrible saws to much better ones now thoroughly enjoy what we do now.

Scrolling is a very slow and accurate form of woodworking, something that most woodworkers fail to realize when they first try scrolling. It's kind-of like switching from 
house construction to watch making, but making the watches from wood. The process is much slower and the results much smaller. You don't get good at accurately following the lines of your patterns until you cut many hours with a scroll saw. You will initially have trouble learning to slow down and not force feed the wood into the blade too. These are really tiny blade teeth, so they don't cut fast like a band saw or table saw. You also need to learn to "steer the wood with your fingers and not with your elbows". Learning to let up on your feeding pressure as you approach a corner, and learning that cutting a straight line with a scroll saw (that is better made for cutting tiny curves) is quite a challenge. Learning the right tension for the saw blade, and which blade makes the best cuts for different situations also takes time.

Many who try scrolling fail to be patient enough to learn how to get the good results from scroll sawing. Those of us who do, find a whole new kind of woodworking, one that is on a much smaller scale and much more precise than we have ever experienced before. Those of us who grow to love this kind of woodworking usually buy nearly new scroll saws cheap from those who spent lots of money on good scroll saws, and then became frustrated and quit using them after just a few sessions, never to go back. 

I have been a scroller for about 45 years, started with a spring return piece of junk Sears Roebuck saw, and somehow put up with it's problems and limitations enough to buy a better saw, and then another, and another, until I finally reached my present level about 8 scroll saws later. I now teach and demonstrate woodworking, but mostly scroll saw woodworking at trade shows and other events. About 20 years ago I was also bitten by the desire to go a step further and do 3D scroll sawing. This is a form of wood carving, but using a scroll saw to make wooden items in three dimensions. I've made many different kind of 3D items on my scroll saws, but one little project seemed to please more people than any other, so I began making a lot of them and giving them away every year at Christmas time. For the past 15 years I've been making little wooden reindeer and I now make them in 4 sizes from about 3 1/2" high down to about 1" high. Seven years ago I began making jewelry from the smaller sizes, since jewelry making is one of my other hobbies. They have become wildly popular. Even Santa Claus (a friend who is Santa at the park where I drive the train) has kept me busy with requests for them. I also make 3D Christmas Tree ornaments, and my 3D work is one of the scroll sawing forms most frequently asked for when I do demonstrations.

If/when you buy a scroll saw, get one of the better saws and give yourself some time to learn to use it. A better saw (like the DeWalt type as a minimum) will remove most of the frustrations that I had to get past, to give you the best chance of learning scrolling enough to grow to really enjoy it. The more you do, the better you will get. Experiment
with the blades and techniques, try different woods, etc. 

Attached are a few photos of some of my work. The Dragon took me almost 50 hours to complete (see, scrolling isn't a fast form of woodworking). The cross only took a couple of hours to cut, but then I used an air powered dentist drill to carve and shape the vines and leaves (total time about 12 hours). By comparison, 3" high reindeer only take me about 8 minutes to cut. The 1" take about 15 minutes.

Charley


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@CharleyL...

*WOW!!!*


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Charlie, your the man. Thank you for shareING some of the wealth of your scrollsawing knowledge with us. You have described me to a "T" about being impatient and getting discouraged. Thank you also for showing your wonderful work, that would be hard to match by anyone. I have seen some of it before ,but always admire it anytime you show it. You are truly a master.

Herb


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

I AM FLABBERGASTED...! That is masterful work...

I understand the need for patience...I am also persistent. Some might say stubborn :smile:. I assumed scrolling would be somewhat therapeutic and painstakingly slow having seen your work and others'. I'm hoping that I will eventually sit my butt down on a chair and spend the hours it takes to make some of the pieces. It is the main reason I want to do a lot of search n' query to get to the "right" saw. With all your input and others' I've read I am now more understanding the functions I want of a saw, its pecularities and finally, my confidence in it. I enjoy refurbishing a piece of equipment as "it makes it mine"...I get a sort of "connection" with it when I'm done.

I really appreciate you taking the time to post all the subtleties of scrolling...I'm sure I'm not the only one gaining from it.

...and your work is fantastic...always enjoy seeing it...thanks for sharing with us...





CharleyL said:


> Nick,
> 
> Some people love scroll sawing, and some grow to hate it and never go back. For those of us who put up with many of the short comings of the older saws and kept at it until we upgraded from terrible saws to much better ones now thoroughly enjoy what we do now.
> 
> ...


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

CharleyL said:


> Nick,
> 
> Some people love scroll sawing, and some grow to hate it and never go back. For those of us who put up with many of the short comings of the older saws and kept at it until we upgraded from terrible saws to much better ones now thoroughly enjoy what we do now.
> 
> ...



Man oh man, this is just too funny. It was like you've been watching me using my scroll saw for years LOLOL.....EXCELLENT points all... Only difference is that I haven't given up... I know my scroll saw is little more than a down sized jack hammer, but the idea that there are just some things that you can do with a scroll saw that you can't practically do with anything else keeps me interested. The posted works of yours make my point.... Beautiful work Charley


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I neglected to post some of the reindeer ear rings. Here are a few, made from the 1" tall reindeer out of hard maple. They fall apart before finishing them if I use softer wood.

Charley


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

They are GORGEOUS...words can't describe...thanks for showing...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

So far, the best saw I've seen is a Dewalt, Type 2, 2008 version, $335.

If I recall reading the difference in Type's is Type 1, Canada...Type 2, Taiwan...Type 3, China...

Comments anybody...?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> Comments anybody...?


have been enlightened to material thicknesses you'll be scrolling/fretting???


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

Nickp said:


> So far, the best saw I've seen is a Dewalt, Type 2, 2008 version, $335.
> 
> If I recall reading the difference in Type's is Type 1, Canada...Type 2, Taiwan...Type 3, China...
> 
> Comments anybody...?


Now I will Have to go look at mine.

Took 2 trips, I had to find my glasses. Yup, Type 2 Tawain .
Herb


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## OutoftheWoodwork (Oct 4, 2012)

@CharleyL you do, what I'm trying (for the umpteenth time) to teach myself! I screw it up every time. Need to have my tablet and a video lesson with me in the shop, I think. I used to do fret work, (when I first started scrolling almost 20 years ago) but lost the patience to sit there and drill all the holes and cut so many small, intricate parts. I thought about trying my hand at some of the simpler intarsia, but that's another area I'll play with later, I think. I want to scroll and/or power carve smaller items to have on the table this winter at the Craft Fair at work. I went out and did a small spurge on a grinder/carver set at HF to see how I liked it, although I have two Dremels, both newer models.

Your items are envious to say the least! I'm in total awe! Nice Work!! (Now come to Michigan and teach me, will ya? LOL)


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Thanks Barb,

What I use for power carving big stuff is an air powered (die grinder) about the diameter of a large Magic Marker. It uses the i/8" shank Dremel type bits, but I buy very few from Dremel. I like other brands better.

Using a Dremel to carve has big limitations. It isn't fast enough and too big and heavy to use for any length of time. The air powered die grinders are faster, have more power, and are smaller and better balanced, but you will need about 6 cfm at 100 psi to run it.

For the cross, I used my straight version of a Dentist Drill and standard 1/16 diameter dentist bits. I buy them online, but have my dentist saving me his dull ones too. His idea of dull means that he has used them once. He sterilizes them and then keeps them in an envelope for me. I sort them and keep spares for my wood carving. My carver was sold to me by Paragrave, and they are out of business. A company called Power Carver and another called SCM still make these. The SCM makes the high quality version, although their price is not for the faint of heart. My carver spins at over 200,000 rpm, so there is no side pull at all when using it. It's just like using a ball point pen, and about the diameter as a larger size ball point pen. It will also run on about 4 cfm at 40 psi. An air brush compressor will run it. Today's versions can spin up to 400,000 rpm and use no oil. My antique uses an air mist lubricator, so occasionally after using it a couple of hours, the oil mist from it's exhaust has thinly covered the back side of my hand. I would love to upgrade, but the price tag of new when retired and on fixed income keeps me from justifying it. Just checking, and the SCM is much cheaper than when I last checked (was almost $1,000 twenty years ago), and it's even on sale right now at considerably less than $400, but I still can't justify one at this time. If I did much more carving, it might be easier to convince myself to spend the money.

High Speed Engraving - Turbo Carver

https://scmsysteminc.com/power_carver.php


If you want to try making 3D reindeer, learn how to follow the lines in very fine 2D scroll saw patterns before trying 3D. It's tougher when doing 3D. Go to the www.scrollsawvillage.com forum and search on my old posts. I have almost written a complete book in my posts (with pictures) there on how to make them.

Sorry, but my health has almost put an end to my significant traveling. I would love to come, but my body is saying "No Way!". I'm not even sure I could spend the time teaching you if you came here now. I once did teaching and demonstrating at trade shows too, but no more. I've had 7 heart surgeries and survived cancer twice, so far. Oh, I've had both knees replaced too. For my last airline flight, they had just installed full body scanners. I warned the operator that I had a lot of plastic and metal in me, and he shrugged. When I went through the scanner, he yelled out "Man, you twinkle like a Christmas Tree". So much for privacy. Before all these surgeries, I traveled from the Czech Republic to Tahiti, and nearly everywhere in between. I've even hiked the upper half of the Appalachian Trail and many of the side trails in the Eastern Mountains. I wish I could travel again, but there just isn't enough of me left to do it anymore. 


Charley


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

Herb,

From what I have seen, the later made type 2 DeWalt 788 scroll saws are fine. They had some early manufacturing problems getting the product made reliably, and the bad ones that got shipped gave the type 2 a black eye. I haven't seen anything wrong with the later type 2 saws. Unfortunately, I don't remember then the type 2 saws came out. I haven't seen any type 3 yet. Maybe they are good, and maybe not. I had heard that the type 3 was going to be made in Mexico, but China seems to be where they are coming from now. Quality control should keep the quality up, but my experience with Chinese products tells me that "if it runs, it ships". So much for their level of QC = None in my book.

Charley


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

Well most are buying the delta 40-694 save $1oo In fact the delta is cheaper than used Dewalts. Your getting new for $350 on amazon.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

CharleyL said:


> Herb,
> 
> From what I have seen, the later made type 2 DeWalt 788 scroll saws are fine. They had some early manufacturing problems getting the product made reliably, and the bad ones that got shipped gave the type 2 a black eye. I haven't seen anything wrong with the later type 2 saws. Unfortunately, I don't remember then the type 2 saws came out. I haven't seen any type 3 yet. Maybe they are good, and maybe not. I had heard that the type 3 was going to be made in Mexico, but China seems to be where they are coming from now. Quality control should keep the quality up, but my experience with Chinese products tells me that "if it runs, it ships". So much for their level of QC = None in my book.
> 
> Charley



It would be nice if there was a chart that laid all that out for all the saws...:grin: I'm taking the approach of grabbing the serial number/year of manufacture and hoping contact with the manufacturer might yield some info. Of course, it depends on who answers the phone.

Good thing is a few weeks ago I didn't even know any of the nuances...had I just jumped in and bought one I might have learned the hard way. 

Thanks for all the time you've taken to respond. I've been spending time on the Village...like drinking from a 5" fire hose...:surprise:


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

roofner said:


> Well most are buying the delta 40-694 save $1oo In fact the delta is cheaper than used Dewalts. Your getting new for $350 on amazon.



Thanks, Gary...been looking at the new saws also. Since I have the time before I start I thought I would take the opportunity to look at all the saws.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

digitalrust said:


> I manage the maker spaces for Hacker Lab, Inc.  We offer membership to people who like to make stuff. We provide our members with everything from 3D printers to laser cutters, Shopbot CNC, Tormach CNCs and every common wood working tool you can imagine. Three years ago I was about to buy a new scroll saw for our Sacramento maker space. So I asked Marc Berner, the guy who wrote the book "Scroll Saw Basics" what he recommended. Marc told me I should buy a General International Excalibur EX 21. He told said it would be solid, dependable, be easy to adjust, and it would not break blades as frequently as some of the other scroll saws on the market. He told me it would be a good choice for people who are just starting out and a wonderful saw for members who were experienced and knew their way around a scroll saw. I looked at the Excalibur but I was put off by the price and some negative Amazon reviews. So I kept looking. We have had pretty good luck with Dewalt tools at Hacker Lab. So, I went with the Dewalt 788. The 788 is a great saw if it is properly adjusted, aligned and you install the correct blades for your type and thickness of wood. I recommend Olson scroll saw blades they make a big difference. That being said, looking back, I wish I had purchased the Excalibur. I have had to order parts and repair our Dewalt 788 four times in the last three years. The blade holder in our 788 has not been able to stand up the amount of use it gets. I have had to replace the rocker assembly, the blade chuck, the blade set screws and clamp knobs, and the main power switch. On the on the plus side, there is a Dewalt Service center in Sacramento and I can get parts quickly from ereplacementparts.com. But more than that, beginning scroll saw users have a hard time properly loading blades. They usually over tighten the blades in the holder, get them out of alignment, and then over tension them. When they start cutting they use the highest speed possible so the blade snaps. Looking back if I had it to do over again I would buy a used Excalibur EX21 scroll saw, that is in good condition. I know that Amazon gives the Excalibur only three stars, but the guy who literally "wrote the book" on how to use a a scroll saw thinks they are great.



Thanks, J...that's quite the review...much appreciated...


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## Billybobb (May 16, 2020)

Try the FOX - Bill


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

A history lesson was recently posted on Scrollsawvillage.com about scroll saws of the Excalibur and Dewalt types. Here is a link to it. This explains a lot. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/28586-excalibur-scroll-saw-what-happened/

Charley


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

CharleyL said:


> A history lesson was recently posted on Scrollsawvillage.com about scroll saws of the Excalibur and Dewalt types. Here is a link to it. This explains a lot. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/28586-excalibur-scroll-saw-what-happened/
> 
> Charley



WOW...it sure explains a lot about Excalibur and its colors...was wondering what that was about...black/green/purple...

...and by coincidence, a purple EX is for sale not too far from me...but 30"...can't imagine I would ever need anything that big...

Thanks for the link...


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## Billybobb (May 16, 2020)

Look into FOX. $200 area. Works well and good action.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

So I broke down and picked up an RBI 220...seller has had it for 5 years, bought it from original owner and thinks it's about 12 years old or so.

Are there any distinguishing characteristics that would help to age it...?

Thanks in advance...


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

Scroll-Saw-Manuals


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

I know this Forum doesn't spend a lot of time with scroll saws but this thread has produced over 2,500 views so there seems to be much interest in the subject. That being the case, I decided to summarize what I went through to where I finally selected a saw...so here goes...

*Process Duration*...while I spent a month of calendar time, I only spent a couple of hours a day researching and asking questions.

*Sources*...This Forum, Scroll Saw Village, Steve Goode, Manufacturers web sites, Youtube, Google searches by brand, Craigslist, Facebook Marketplace.
*
Selection of Saws*...All the research I did led me to narrow the field to just a few. I eliminated new saws that were made in China (no offense intended). I budgeted between $300 and $400 based on classifieds on Marketplace, Craigslist and eBay. While searching through the various sites I narrowed my search to Pegas, Excalibur, RBI Hawk, Hegner, Dewalt and Delta. I eliminated those exceeding $400 which took out the new Dewalt and Delta and Pegas. That is not to say that one wouldn't come along in my budget. I figured I had the time to add or delete as the deals came up. I also initially eliminated the Hegner primarily because most saws selling were under 20" (18's). I also wanted one saw that would provide me the most flexibility without having to buy another saw to do other work (scroll vs fretting). In this mix of saws, some were described as "aggressive cutting" while others were described as "more suitable for fret work". I want to make box tops so that involved fret work (like Dave and Charley posted earlier). Since I'm completely new at scrolling I wanted a saw that I could not blame for my mistakes.

*Excalibur*...this was a tricky one. The brand switched from owner to owner and both improvements and problems happened with the switches. I found it difficult to determine which years were good, which models, which color (green/black/purple), some had motor issues, while in other cases they became more desirable with the owner switch. Parts are readily available while some chose to make their own. These were parts like clamps, knobs, holders, etc... I saw a purple 30" machine for sale...looked great. Not sure about the purple color though...YMMV...
*
Hegner.*..no doubt a top leader like the Excalibur. This machine is highly desirable but also a bit above the high side of my budget. Little vibration, accurate and aggressive and quiet. This machine has the largest table area which many like. I did decide that if the right deal jumped on me I would buy one even if I had already bought another. There went the one-saw thinking. As luck would have it, while I was anxiously awaiting to travel to see the RBI, a Hegner went up for $100...I about soiled my pants...! Reached out to the seller but alas, it has sold a few hours after listing it. People can't say enough about the Hegners. Most were above my budget but I was close to waiting for one even if it cost a bit more.

*Dewalt*... This saw apparently has an aggressive cut but it is accomplished by the blade being slightly tilted towards the user. This gives an action like "orbital" on a jig saw. Some reported that it makes it difficult to do stacked cutting. However, many also reported they had no problems doing such. Dewalt has three different types. The Type 1 (original) was make in Canada (most desirable), the Type 2 was made in Taiwan, and the current Type 3 made in China. This is the one currently being sold in stores. The Dewalt and the current Delta 40-694 are basically the same machine with interchangeable parts (bearings and other parts). If you look at the two machines and they weren't painted different colors it would be hard to tell which is which (at least for me).
*
Delta*... The model I went after is the 40-690. This is the early model and liked by many as the 1st choice if buying a Delta in the size I was looking for. That is not to say the newer 694 is not a good saw. It is made in China like the newer Dewalt (same factory) if that means anything to you. Parts are available for both the Delta and the Dewalt (bearings, etc).

*RBI*...this quickly became my choice. The brand is currently owned by Bushton Manufacturing. Customer service is reported as lacking as are parts and newly manufactured models. Apparently it is not known what Bushton will do with the brand. But parts are available and can be found. This saw has a lower blade holder that can be mounted in one of two positions. One position will lean the saw forward while the other position will position the blade straight up and down. This became a big feature for me wanting only one saw. In my feeble mind this would give me the best of both worlds...aggressive and easy for fret work. I'm sure the more experienced would say this doesn't really matter once you get used to the saw...I would agree but I wanted a quicker learning curve. At least, that was my thinking, right/wrong/indifferent. Some earlier RBI's had some motor issues with the FASCO motors that were installed in the earlier models. Here we go again...how to determine which years or asking the seller to peek under the table to see which motor was installed. Serial number doesn't really help unless you call the company...and success depends on who answers the phone. The one I bought does not have the FASCO...it has the Dayton motor which I understand is a good motor. My saw is about 12 yrs old...a youngster. The RBI I have has aluminum arms, rear brackets and table. Good size table that allows for support deep into the throat. Like many of the other saws, it has a forward tension release for changing blades or for inserting the blade for an interior cut.

*So how easy was this process*...NOT. It became so overwhelming at times I started to create a table with descriptions and notes in the intersections of columns and rows. This didn't make it any easier as it made less and less sense the more I filled in. And all of a sudden it became more clear...if I didn't do any of this and didn't limit myself on the budget, I would, like most other people, go to the store and buy one and be happy. So what was wrong with me...! When I finally narrowed it down to the five I listed, it became easier to compare. It also helped that I was patient enough to read and ask and talk with others that own saws. Eventually, the more I learned the easier it became. It's a learning process...spending the time to learn about the different models, techniques and problems helps a lot. I also downloaded many manuals and went through the instructions and parts diagrams. If you're any good at all at looking at parts and understanding how they function, it will make it easier to understand the saw. If you're worried about parts availability, parts web sites and manufacturer contact will either ease your mind or drive you nuts. I decided the quality of the RBI and its history with those who have it relieved me of the pressure of immediate parts availability. Besides, the forums available for information are filled with dedicated scrollers that are all willing to help.

*Now that it's over*, it's time to completely disassemble my saw, clean the heck out of it, lube it accordingly, reassemble, align and adjust and make some dust. It is my method of learning what I have and it sets a zero base for my regular maintenance schedule. It's time for two fingers of Makers Mark...!

Comments are more than welcomed, especially if I've reported any wrong information...would hate to have influenced anybody interested in the hobby with bad info. Questions are equally welcomed...I probably left some info out or just don't know any better...

You may now ask..."what's your next saw"...don't know...like any tool, it's easy to see its flaws after purchase...I say "so what", I'll have fun in the meantime..."my next one will be the right one" (BTDT)


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

...forgot to also thank Gary @roofner for pointing me to Scroll Saw Village...Thanks, Gary...


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## roofner (Aug 1, 2010)

I also went with RBI 226 vs . Need to get some different blades and experiment . One thing I don't like saw is tall not comfortable to me. I'm short 5 ft 9. Need to find a solution . I bought it late last year summer was about over . It a very smooth running saw. Blades that came with saw are very small break to easy.


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## srjaynes49 (Feb 9, 2010)

The freestanding ShopSmith scroll saw Is very nice. Has a smooth variable speed and an adequate blade holding system. Comes with a Quick release on blade tension and a “puffer” to keep the cut. line clear. Used ones are often a bargain. Check craigslist, etc..


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

roofner said:


> I also went with RBI 226 vs . Need to get some different blades and experiment . One thing I don't like saw is tall not comfortable to me. I'm short 5 ft 9. Need to find a solution . I bought it late last year summer was about over . It a very smooth running saw. Blades that came with saw are very small break to easy.



I started a thread (see this link) on SSV asking for blade sources and recommendations...got some really good responses...I figured it would speed up my learning if I started with the right blades...

I have a taller shop chair that I will use and decided to put a cross brace between the front legs for foot support...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

pictures....


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

you've had this saw, what, 48 hours or so...
it should be cleaned and polished by now....
not mention up and humming...


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> pictures....



...after cleaning, reassembly and some Johnson's...maybe I'll do a "before and after"...:grin:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> ...after cleaning, reassembly and some Johnson's...maybe I'll do a "before and after"...:grin:


do I sense some goldbricking here???


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> do I sense some goldbricking here???


YAAAWWN...nope...:smile:


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Nickp said:


> YAAAWWN...nope...:smile:


make that slacking then...


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