# Routing an Oval Mirror



## PointFive (Nov 28, 2008)

From a previous question I got help on how to arrange segments to make up the frame for an oval mirror and the use of splines. It worked out well.

Now, the reality set-in that you cannot just rout the FACE of this oval frame on a router table while standing the oval frame on it's edge in the manner that you would be able to rout a straight piece. If haven't tried this, just try to do it on a piece of curved scrap. The face, not the edge.

It appears the you must set the frame on it's back and hand rout the face of the frame using the ends of bits, which then excludes the use of the sides certain bits that I would like to use, such as the bead bit and others.

Ok, I can live with that, but what about the variations that occur as you round the tight corners at the top and bottom of the oval? Straight cuts are a consistent distant from the edge of a frame. The oval is more than challenging. Is there a special jig that you need to mount on the router with rollers to assist in navigating the tighter turns? Maybe that explains why you don't see oval frames very often and when you do, the faces tend to be plain.

Any help appreciated.

ps Is there any way to make a bead on the face of an oval (other than a CNC router?)


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi PointFive

That's one job that should have been done when you did the oval 
You can still get it done with a plunge bit like below,,,

You will need to lock the frame down to some plywood and use a edge guide and a oval / bead bit..

http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?dept=10
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?dept=46

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PointFive said:


> From a previous question I got help on how to arrange segments to make up the frame for an oval mirror and the use of splines. It worked out well.
> 
> Now, the reality set-in that you cannot just rout the FACE of this oval frame on a router table while standing the oval frame on it's edge in the manner that you would be able to rout a straight piece. If haven't tried this, just try to do it on a piece of curved scrap. The face, not the edge.
> 
> ...


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi,

In RWS DVD series #6 Bob & Rick make and route a oval mirror. Might be worth the $$ to purchase and see the experts do it.  Just a thought.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI Ken

I will agree they are the pro's. but in this case I think he needs a jig to get it done..  now that's he has it cut out.. 

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17282&filter=oval jig
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?Offerings_ID=17282&TabSelect=Videos

on sale for 50.oo bucks
I have one and I would give 5 stars out of 5 stars 
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Hamlin said:


> Hi,
> 
> In RWS DVD series #6 Bob & Rick make and route a oval mirror. Might be worth the $$ to purchase and see the experts do it.  Just a thought.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

You can rout the face of an oval by placing your wood face down on the table and using a bearing guided bit for the inside and outside edges. Routing the outside requires a safety or starting pin but this is not needed for inside routing. You can accomplish the same and more by using Template Tom's methods of guide bushings, templates and router ski's. Spend a few minutes reviewing his posts under *Templates and guide bushings.*


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

I guess I miss read his post, he said he wanted to put a bead on the face side of the oval frame,,,that's why he was putting on edge on the router table,,, I don't know he could do that by putting it face down on the router table and using guides..and a starting pin... 

I guess he could get the job done with a a template and a guide and a plunge router but it would be tricky at best..

Please tell me how you would do it on the router table 

Thanks


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Mike said:


> You can rout the face of an oval by placing your wood face down on the table and using a bearing guided bit for the inside and outside edges. Routing the outside requires a safety or starting pin but this is not needed for inside routing. You can accomplish the same and more by using Template Tom's methods of guide bushings, templates and router ski's. Spend a few minutes reviewing his posts under *Templates and guide bushings.*


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

Paul
I think I have an answer to your problem if I understand what you want to do but before I go and explain what I would do I would like a clearer picture of what *you* really want to do and what you have produced. So my advice is to submit a drawing or a picture of what you have achieved so far then at least we can have an idea of the problem. As it is an elliptical shape and I assume you still have the original template you used to cut the shape then the problem can be solved. So please some more information of what you have done so far and details of the template you used to cut it out. 
Tom

Samples; Smaller elliptical frames cut from solid timber


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## PointFive (Nov 28, 2008)

*Face Routing an Oval Mirror Frame*



template tom said:


> Paul
> I think I have an answer to your problem if I understand what you want to do but before I go and explain what I would do I would like a clearer picture of what *you* really want to do and what you have produced. So my advice is to submit a drawing or a picture of what you have achieved so far then at least we can have an idea of the problem. As it is an elliptical shape and I assume you still have the original template you used to cut the shape then the problem can be solved. So please some more information of what you have done so far and details of the template you used to cut it out.
> Tom
> 
> Samples; Smaller elliptical frames cut from solid timber


So far, I have glued up the segments and rough bandsawed out the shape close to the line from the template. I have the original oval plastic frame to use as a template and I see no problem following the template on the router table or applying a roundover bit as in RW#6 which I bought. Bob and Rick have a plain face on their frame. I need beads and shape, like yours.

I have not yet routed the inside and outside shape following the template. I was testing the face beading concept on a piece of wood that I cut in the shape of an oval when I realized that you can't evenly add the decorative FACE beads etc by standing the piece on it's edge on the router table in front of the spinning bead bit.

Your picture is what I'm trying to achieve. Mine is even simpler - a plain oval. No scallops. How did you do that? The beads look perfectly parallel.

Thanks for the help,

Paul


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Paul 

Just a butt in post 

Just chuck one of the bits below and put the profile in place on the router table..
the bearing on the bit will do all the work for you..


http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_covbd.html
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...html/pages/bt_bead.html#classical_bits_anchor

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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Two laps with a point cutting round over bit with a fence adjustment. This might work better face up with an edge guide.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...t_groove.html#Point cutting round over anchor


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## PointFive (Nov 28, 2008)

*Face Routing on Oval Frame*

Mike,

I think the technical question (for producing beads and steps and shapes on the FACE of the oval frame) is what kind of edge guide to attach to the plunge router? A big flat edge guide isn't going to follow the varying path and will cause the bead line to vary its distance from the edge as you change the slope of the edge _ahead_ of the cutter. If I were just routing the edges or near the edges, the suggestions, so far, would work well.

The FACE of the frame is 2-1/2" wide. I need to put some beads 1" from the edge and to make some steps and curves joining the beads and steps.

Paul


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

PointFive said:


> So far, I have glued up the segments and rough bandsawed out the shape close to the line from the template. I have the original oval plastic frame to use as a template and I see no problem following the template on the router table or applying a roundover bit as in RW#6 which I bought. Bob and Rick have a plain face on their frame. I need beads and shape, like yours.
> 
> I have not yet routed the inside and outside shape following the template. I was testing the face beading concept on a piece of wood that I cut in the shape of an oval when I realized that you can't evenly add the decorative FACE beads etc by standing the piece on it's edge on the router table in front of the spinning bead bit.
> 
> ...


Paul

Your problem began at the start of the project where you began with a 'Male' template which can only give you the external shape.

I begin my elliptical shapes from a 'Female' template and I complete the internal shape first. Then I produce a 'Plug' so that I can rout the external edge. Should I wish to add any face mouldings this would require a second 'Plug' or I may manage with only one plug with a great variety of Template guides to achieve the 'Off-sets' required.

We have to look at alternative methods of using the router. We are lead to believe that "90% of any routing process can be achieved with the router in the router table" (not my quote). If you have a look at what I produce with the router then you would see that I would have to disagree and this project of yours seem to back up why.

Looking at your post above you mention you have the oval template does this give the internal oval? in other words is it an oval frame you are working from? if that is the case then you can rout your internal shape then produce the 'Plugs' I mentioned above to rout the face mouldings this is why I suggested that you produce drawings or pics of what you have so that we are not trying to answer a question when we have no idea of what you are working with in the beginning. I would like to know more information on what template you have.
Tom


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Paul, you are correct when you say a flat edge guide would not work. I stand by my first answer, this can be done face down on the table with a fence that has sliding faces or a fixture with two wheels to act as guides. Face up could be done with a variation of the two wheel fixture attached as an edge guide. These two reference points would allow for rotation and provide an accurate path for the bit to follow. You see, given some thought "90% of routing jobs _can_ be done with a table mounted router." Tom loves to disagree with this statement. Tom will show you his methods which offer great merit. Like most woodworking jobs there is more than one way to "Get er done!" Choose which ever works best for you.

After giving this more thought I think the easiest way to cut your beads and even to shape the frame would have been with Rocklers eliptical jig. A few bit changes and ajustments and you would be done.


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## template tom (Sep 18, 2004)

Mike said:


> Paul, you are correct when you say a flat edge guide would not work. I stand by my first answer, this can be done face down on the table with a fence that has sliding faces *or a fixture with two wheels to act as guides. *
> 
> Mike
> Using this method has in my humble opinion two problems.
> ...


Mike Working with an elliptical cutting jig would be more complicated as it sounds (Though I would love to hear from those who may have tried that method) too many changes to the size of the elliptical shape when a new cutter is required not an easy way to calculate the various adjustments required each time.

Routing the face of the frame in the router table is not the safest method of adding any face moulding, though as said I would like to hear from someone that has used this method and what success they had 

Tom


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Tom

I used the Rockler Oval jig and the router table to make the picture frame below


The Rockler Oval jig is a amazing jig,,,,I didn't go back and reset it up but it would not be a big deal because it's such a neat jig... 
It's your kind of jig because it's made to be use with the plunge router,,if you get chance to get one I suggest you do, it's that great...it's only 50.oo bucks now on sale...the norm is 90.oo USA dollars..and I'm sure you will say the same as I WOW 
I did rework the one I have so I don't need to screw it to the router I just use a 1 1/2" guide and just drop it in and cut the oval/circle ...

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template tom said:


> Mike Working with an elliptical cutting jig would be more complicated as it sounds (Though I would love to hear from those who may have tried that method) too many changes to the size of the elliptical shape when a new cutter is required not an easy way to calculate the various adjustments required each time.
> 
> Routing the face of the frame in the router table is not the safest method of adding any face moulding, though as said I would like to hear from someone that has used this method and what success they had
> 
> Tom


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## Doak (Mar 20, 2009)

PointFive said:


> From a previous question I got help on how to arrange segments to make up the frame for an oval mirror and the use of splines. It worked out well.
> 
> Now, the reality set-in that you cannot just rout the FACE of this oval frame on a router table while standing the oval frame on it's edge in the manner that you would be able to rout a straight piece. If haven't tried this, just try to do it on a piece of curved scrap. The face, not the edge.
> 
> ...


Did you ever succeed in completing your project????
Tom


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