# My first template - a TS throat plate



## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

My first template - a TS throat plate.
I made the template for the throat plate which goes on the top of the table. Took a long time to get it to a perfect fit, and it IS perfect. It was good practice getting it to fit into the recess on top of the saw table. Haven't done the lower half yet, the part that goes in the cut out of the table and backs the top piece (veneer).

I made the template out of 1/8" hardboard and then realized that that is a little to thin to feel confident routing around it. So I doubled up the thickness by gluing more 1/8" hardboard to the back of it. Then I glued it to a rough cut 1/2" MDF and used a template bit on the table to cut it out. Now I have a nice 1/2" MDF template of the throat plate.

Next I need to cut out the part that goes down inside the table, that the throat plate glues to. It is a really irregular shape (older Craftsman 10" saw) and it will take some time to get the shape right.

I also want to take a minute to say, boy, those little hot glue guns are a wonderful invention. I have gotten more use out of it than I would have imagined. And I also want to say, boy, MDF is a messy thing to deal with. But it sure makes a nice template and its so easy to work.

By the way, I notice that the laminate I will use for the throat plate is, I think, .058", while the recess in the table top is .083". Should I put a shim (tape?) under the throat plate or just don't worry about the differance which will leave the throat plate sitting .025" too low?


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Daryl,

that sounds great! 

if you dont have a planer to get it to the right thickness, then yes put shims under it. 
you might be able to use set tscrews to adjust it. you can pick up a drill bit and tap pretty cheap at lowes or hd.

if the plate is below the table work pieces can catch on it and with a ts, it can be dangerous!

im not familiar with your ts, but i use my original insert as a template.


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

I see that the throat plate that others make are just a oval or oblong shaped piece that sets into the table. Mine is irregular shaped below the surface and so an insert must be cut to fit it.
Heres a picture of the saw and a picture of an insert I made years ago.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

ok, i see now.

my insert plate is in the middle of the saw and is rounded on both ends. i dont need to make the lower part that fits down inside the table because mine wont get flung back at me like yours could.


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

I'm hopeing that someone who has a saw like mine will show how they made their insert.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Hi
Maybe you could make 2 plates and glue them together?

Santé


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

Thats what I am doing. I have the template for the top part (the thin laminate on top of the table) and I am now making the template for the lower part that will go below the top surface. I will post pics when I get them done today.
I am learning the fun of using the hot glue gun to build up a shape by laminating multiple pieces of thin wood and veneers together. Its kinda fun making templates.:laugh:


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Daryl,

sounds like you have everything under control. 

at some point you may want to look at buying a pin nailer. they are inexpensive and make you want to throw away the hot glue gun. i use mine for everything! templates, temporarily securing items, etc.


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

HF has one that goes on sale for $15 from time to time. Its a pin nailer and stapler.
Its coming.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

ive heard hf has a good pin nailer. i didnt know it was also a stapler? 

i got mine off ebay for about 39 dollars. i really use it a lot!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Guys

I have a hand power type pin nailer it will do both.. 

=====


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi BobJ,

is it like an arrow staple gun?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hey bud

Yep, I use it to put down small molding on screen doors.

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levon said:


> hi BobJ,
> 
> is it like an arrow staple gun?


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

i think, i know exactly what your talking about now. i dont own one,but ive seen them used.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Hey bud
> 
> Yep, I use it to put down small molding on screen doors.
> 
> ====


Bob, those are about 20 ga aren't they? I've got an electric one that shoots both those things... not very well but it shoots 'em. Have yet to see an electric one worth a ****. At least not in any reasonable price range.:'(


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

Ok you guys. Get back on the subject!!
Heres a tutorial of how I made my table saw insert.


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

If it wasn't for the fact that the lower part fit tight in the saw recess, I would not have been able to glue the top part to it in the proper position. I will now make a jig to hold both parts so they can be glued and clamped on the work bench instead of in the saw.

So...what do you think?
All comments and impovements welcome. This was my first template.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Daryl

That's looks find, I would suggest a screw or two to be on the safe side , hot glue is not the best for the job, you don't want the part to drop off into the blade ..

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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

I would like to use a screw. The original metal plate had a counter sunk screw but the laminate that I used is not thick enough to counter sink into. You can see where the original screw was. I will need to devise a fastener that has a mounting screw or bolt that goes through the thicker wood more toward the center of the insert.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

For gluing the 2 parts toogether you must use "colle de contact" (in french maybe "contact glue" in english ?) not with warm glue ! 
With "colle de contact" you can glue just a littl part in the center of your plate dirctly on your TS so they will be good positionned and then you can press all out of your TS.
You say that your Formica plate is not so thick that the métal one, *The insert must be flush with the table !! *

Santé


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

sofasurfer said:


> I see that the throat plate that others make are just a oval or oblong shaped piece that sets into the table. Mine is irregular shaped below the surface and so an insert must be cut to fit it.
> Heres a picture of the saw and a picture of an insert I made years ago.


Daryl,
I made mine from a piece of 5/8 MDF and routed the edges on the router table to the depth needed. 
Another trick to proper hight is to get your insert ready and place a few dabs of hot melt glue on the edges and quickly drop it into the slot. Press it down to the correct hight. The glue won't stick well to the metal. Result is a perfect, form fitting insert.
I made a 1/2' pattern by copying an old insert and put a length of 3/4X3/4 on one side to use in clamping the pattern in a bench vise. Then I use double sided tape to affix the work to the pattern for routing with a trim bit. 
Gene


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Daryl

You can use flat head wood screws (82 deg.flat counter sunk type) but the counter sink hole must be drilled dead on,that's to say not to deep..the head will grab the thin stock and hold in place...and not let the stock under it drop on to the saw blade blade..do it on some scrap stock 1st. you don't want to mess up the insert you now have made..you will see this done many times with many metal tag plates on shop equipment.

I would suggest using a number 4 x 3/8" phil.flat head wood screw,many of the small and short wood screws are under cut just for that type of job.
(hinge wood screws ) 

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sofasurfer said:


> I would like to use a screw. The original metal plate had a counter sunk screw but the laminate that I used is not thick enough to counter sink into. You can see where the original screw was. I will need to devise a fastener that has a mounting screw or bolt that goes through the thicker wood more toward the center of the insert.


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

"_Another trick to proper hight is to get your insert ready and place a few dabs of hot melt glue on the edges and quickly drop it into the slot. Press it down to the correct hight. The glue won't stick well to the metal. Result is a perfect, form fitting insert._"

Thanks Gene for this génial idea ! This will work for others things too!

Santé


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

ous êtes les bienvenus, Sante'

You are most welcome, Sante'
Gene


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## Santé (Jan 14, 2010)

Thanks Gene

Santé


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## Clouseau (Oct 12, 2009)

Just made three sets of inserts last week for PM62, 1973 Cman and old Delta 9". I used Corian. It machines great. The Cman was the hardest because it is thin all the way around. I used a pattern bit and the original insert for the Cman stuck together with double-sided tape for the original cut out, then I used a fence and 1/2" bit to make the rabbet. You can use the gap in the fence to help on the round end(s). A well-placed screw with a nylon washer can be used on the rear to make a hook so it cannot lift itself out. If you don't use set screws, you can use masking tape to shim it up to flush.


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