# 2nd attempt with Rockler dovetail jig



## bigarm (Nov 12, 2014)

I had time to try the dovetail jig again today and I have to say I am getting somewhat frustrated. I seem to be unable to get the through dovetails deep enough. I am using my Festool 1400 and the jig. If I set the bit out too far it won't cut the wood and if I set it so it will cut the wood the resulting cut is not deep enough for the pins to match up. Any ideas on what the heck I am doing wrong. Also, the first dovetails which were too short were cut nicely, but later attempts are not as nice and look kind of jagged. If you have any ideas, I would love to hear them.
Also, I would like to ask a couple of other questions. Are the Leigh jigs worth the added expense? And what is the difference between the DR4 and the Super series. Is the DR4 worth the extra hundred dollars? If I upgrade, I want to do it right.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

How about a picture or six...

Take one of how you set it up...another of the results after cutting...

For the jagged...are you cutting left to right...?


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## bigarm (Nov 12, 2014)

I will try to take some pictures tomorrow. It's a little dark out there now! Yes, I am going left to right.


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## Semipro (Mar 22, 2013)

bigarm
here is video may help.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

After watching a live Rockler demo where in two hours they were unable to get the jig to produce a proper joint, I set mine aside and bought the Sommerfeld table top jig, which is much easier to use. I think it and the Leigh are very similar. I've just found that Sommerfeld's stuff is top drawer and have never disappointed me. There is also a video available where he shows exactly how to use it. You might want to check it out as well. It also has changable pins you can buy for custom spacing of dovetails. Every Sommerfeld tool and accessory I've bought works exactly as advertised. I popped for his DVD collection which shows how every part of his system works. I am a systems guy and really like how well the matched sets work.


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## bigarm (Nov 12, 2014)

I will check out the Sommerfeld offering. Thanks.


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## bigarm (Nov 12, 2014)




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## bigarm (Nov 12, 2014)




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## bigarm (Nov 12, 2014)




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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

Pine and other softwoods as well as plywood are too soft and will splinter and chip. It is just too difficult to work with those woods and achieve consistent satisfactory results.

A tight grained closed pore hardwood is best. Maple and cherry are probably the most "economical", easy to obtain, and will work. But oak will also split/chip. 

If you build with a softwood, and desire dovetails, 'best-better' learn to cut them by hand.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Do you have a new bit on or is it the same one you hit the first template with...? Just checkin'

Also...router speed should be almost high...

Might you be rushing through the cut...? Maybe slow down your feed speed...?

Is the wood super dry...like maybe a very old piece of scrap...?


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## bigarm (Nov 12, 2014)

That was the same bit. The wood was a scrap from the pile. The wood I want to use will be hardwoods.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

​


bigarm said:


> That was the same bit. The wood was a scrap from the pile. The wood I want to use will be hardwoods.


Examine the bit...might be damaged...replace it...

Then try on some scrap hardwood...


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## bigarm (Nov 12, 2014)

Put a call into Rockler. Waiting for a call back.


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