# cheap/simple box-joint jig?



## Shadrac (Feb 1, 2008)

OK..I know zero about dovetail/boxjoint jigs. 

What I DO know is that I can't buy $$$ worth of equipment.

Is there any reason why one couldn't use just a template(for boxjoints in my case), clamp it at the end of the board to be routed...and rout out the slots/pins?

I guess Im just confused as to why you would need these $$$ jigs when a fastened template would seem to accomplish the same thing...minus the space adustability...which I do not need. I just need even spaced boxjoint slots/pins...in the 1/4" to 1/2" range. 

Also,,,I'm not sure about 'bearings' as opposed to 'bushings'. Do 'bushings' attach to the router base ...non-moving...while 'bearings' are found on the bit itself? 

Do bushings come with routers generally speaking...and how do I know what size bushing or bearing-bit to use with a given template(assuming that I can rig it to work without a jig)?

I was told that THIS was the place to post these naive type questions...so please bear with me. I need to be set straight on this


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

And you were told right. A guide bushing can be made from plastic, brass, aluminum or steel. It attaches to the bottom of your router or to a mounting plate if the router is in a table. The size of the bushing determines the offset: all this means is how far away from the template. 1/2 the size of the bushing is the offset. How to select the proper bit and bushing combination is explained in several posts under guide bushings and templates so I wont repeat it here. Most routers do not come with guide bushings but they are readily available in stores. A bearing is just that, a roller bearing mounted on the router bit, either above or below the cutter depending on the application. Bearings that are end mounted are often removeable so you can get additional uses from the same bit. There are also bearings that slide onto the bit shaft and are held in place with a collar. Most are round, some are square and they all work. Again you can read about the differences elsewhere in the forums.
There is no need for an expensive guide for box joints. The Oak Park box joint jigs are super simple and get great results. They are made from quality HDPE which lets the wood slide like a dream. They also have about the fastest set up of any brand on the market and cost just over $20. You can make your own but this is money well spent.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Hello Shad, and welcome to the Router Forums. For $59.95 +SH you can get the set of three box joint jigs from Oak-Park. They include the 1/4", 3/8", and the 1/2" fence for making box joints and can be used for sliding dovetails. If you're not in a hurry, Oak-Park will put the on sale from time to time. These jigs make it the easiest to make boxjoints.


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## Shadrac (Feb 1, 2008)

OK,,thank you mike and DrZook...

The jig looks interesting...kinda the same principle as the basic 'key' type tablesaw jig., but I don't have a router table. I was looking into getting a box joint template(not an entire jig assembly), and attaching it at the ends of my pieces to do the slots.

I'd build a table for my router(still in the shopping mode), but I don't have the time/resources for that yet...unless...the table could be very, very simple...easy enough for me to build in a day, without a lot of fancy parts. If it could be just a basic box with the router attached underneath...no fence, no miter slots, then I'd truly consider the OakPark setup.

Again, right now I ONLY need to do box joints. I tried to see how the OakPark system works..but the video demo was down...and I didnt want to purchase a 'demo' video only to see if I wanted to buy the jig. If I did have one, I'd have to admit that the OakPark jig looks rather ideal for what I'd need it to do. 

Now, I saw various brand metal box-joint templates in the $15-$40 range and
wanted to see how feasible it was to rig the template to my workpieces without having to purchase a whole jig assembly. Can this be done?


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

You can easily create your very own template from scrap wood. You would only need to "route" out the slot and create the pin for spacing.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

You can mount a router to a piece of plywood very easily. Remove the sub base plate and transfer the holes onto the plywood, drill them out and with some longer screws attach your router. This should take less than an hour. Flip the board over and clamp it to a pair of sawhorses and you have a simple, easy to store router table. You could also build a simple box and clamp it on a bench. Some people use old cabinets or even a desk to install their routers in. Whatever works for you. The Oak Park box joint jig requires you to drill two holes in your table for mounting. They can be at any angle on the table top as long as the router bit, and space between it and the guide strip are the same size. The holes are drilled in all three guides so that if one fits, they all fit with these same two screws. There is no simpler method, and the UDPE lets the wood slide like silk. You use a wooden backer board, stand your piece on end and run it across the bit. Now set the slot you just cut on the guide strip and repeat till all your cuts are made. Perfect every time.


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## Shadrac (Feb 1, 2008)

Thank you Mike(and hamlin)...

That sounds fairly achievable. Now,,I'm totally going to trust you regarding the ease/accuracy of the OakPark jig. I suppose in a worst case its still a LOT cheaper than a template/jig combo.

OK, now that that is out of the way...do you suppose I could solicit just a bit more advice regarding the exact type of *bit* that I will need? 

I am looking to do '1/4" slots/pins', and the actual thickness will be 3/4" hard wood( probably African Mahogany).

And lastly, could you maybe point me in the right direction regarding a router? 

I will have only about $100 for both *router* and bit. I didnt know whether to look for a plunge feature or not(Im not totally sure what the 'plunge' ability is for other than making it easier on the router by doing multiple passes)...or what 'brand' in that low of a price range...also, I wont need to buy a bushing for the router when using the OakPark jig, will I?

I know my options are limited in that price range...the Craftsmans' seem to have mixed reviews at their website...and I saw a couple 'Skil' models, a 'Black and Decker' and even something called a 'Firestorm' at the Lowes website...any ideas?

Thanks again Mike for the details about the table...very useful info.

I dont sense much snobbery at this forum...and that's fresh air to me.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Shadrac

Here's a cheap/simple box-joint jig you can make in about 30 mins.
You can also make one for the dovetail joints if you want with a dovetail key insert or just use a 3/8" wide slot key.

All it takes is a 3/4" brass guide in the router table or in your router base plate..

I made one along time ago and they work great...

I did rework the one I made into to a push block for the Oak-Park box jigs..if you take a look at that one you will see part of the 3/4" wide slot in the base plate on the jig..

OR
This one if you want to go the extra step.. 

http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/3543-deluxe-push-block.html

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Shadrac said:


> OK..I know zero about dovetail/boxjoint jigs.
> 
> What I DO know is that I can't buy $$$ worth of equipment.
> 
> ...


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

"1/2 the size of the bushing is the offset."!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?????


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Harry

I did go back and added a view,, the brass guide/bushing just keeps it true, guide not in play so to speak,,,the backer board and the key move from side to side to setup the slot size and spacing...  it works best with a 3/8" key so it can be used to put in dovetails as well with one jig...just a drop on and slot jig.

You will see this type of jig used on the table saws but the router table mades it easy and true every time...with just a pass or two...the offset is setup by the key and a small spacer right next to the bit but it works better to cut the stock a bit wider than it needs to be and then rip the stock to size....

Screw Slot bits

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/cat/Site/0018.html


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harrysin said:


> "1/2 the size of the bushing is the offset."!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?????


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

bobj3 said:


> Hi Shadrac
> 
> Here's a cheap/simple box-joint jig you can make in about 30 mins.
> You can also make one for the dovetail joints if you want with a dovetail key insert or just use a 3/8" wide slot key.
> ...


Exactly what I was thinking of Bob. :sold:


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

harrysin said:


> "1/2 the size of the bushing is the offset."!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!?????


Harry, I realize this statement is only true until a bit is installed. It is meant to convey the general idea. There is plenty of information on how to figure the amount of offset available on the forum. This is only a general hello, see how this works statement.


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

Hi Shadrac

You need to make yourself a box-joint jig (also called finger joint)

this one is similar to the oak-park type:
http://www.woodworkersworkshop.com/cached_files/26509_files/

If you need help troubleshooting, or figuring it out, let me know through a Private Message and I will help you as best as I can. You really need to do a lot of trial runs with things like this to fine tune your work. The more you play with your router the better you will see all it's options and applications. I use mine almost daily.

~Julie~


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

Shad,
I bought the Woodline spacer Fence system as well as the Route-R-Joint from "Woodline USA. I am just learning and set it up...Using scrap wood they work really well. Google them and have a look. It might be what you want as well as need.

Best Regard,
George II
aka
George Cole


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Shad

http://www.woodline.com/p-1832-woodline-spacer-fence-sysem.aspx
129.oo dollars

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=boxj--&product=SF1030
60.oo dollars

http://us.oak-park.com/catalogue.html?list=bars--
brass bars 25.oo dollars

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shop...utacc1.html#brass_router_height_set-up_anchor
brass bars 15.oo dollars to 20.oo dollars


Brass SetUp bars
To beat the high price, buy it 12" long,then tape them up with masking tape and cut them all to 4" long.. 
Then you will have " 3 " FULL Sets from 1/8" to 1/2" for about 15.oo ea.set.

12" Length Brass—sq. key stock Standard

1/8" x 1/8"	98500A100	1.16
3/16" x 3/16"	98500A117	1.80
1/4" x 1/4"	98500A136	3.29
5/16" x 5/16"	98500A150	5.26
3/8" x 3/8"	98500A165	6.24
7/16" x 7/16"	98500A179	8.18
1/2" x 1/2"	98500A187	14.76

From:
http://www.mcmaster.com/
type in ,,, Brass key stock

Then ask the Boss to fire up her sewing machine and make 3 holders for you.  that will hold 7 bars .........



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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Good post Julie.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

Bj, it wasn't anything YOU said or did, I was just reminding a certain Senior moderator that whenever two words are used instead of twenty, there will be members who can be pedantic!


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## George II (Nov 8, 2007)

I should have ask Bob before I bought my Woodline. It is about the same as the Oak Park with a few more things and "thingies". Julies post gave me a idea for the push/backing block...They both need it, thanks Julie.

Best Regards,
George Cole


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## Shadrac (Feb 1, 2008)

Thanks for the info guys, and the offer to help, julie...I have been scavenging the net for info on my router purchase...Sooooooooo many options in the 1-2 hundred range.  Heeeeelp!

Im a bit(ahem) torn between a fixed base and a plunge...(a 'kit' with both is not out of the question, but I'd rather get a more reliable fixed base than a mediocre kit, if that makes sense?)...but how often do you'all use your router table as opposed to routing by hand?

If the table will get the most use, then I was considering the Bosch #1617 fixed base, and only take it out when I need it. Another consideration for mostly table use is which routers are easiest to adjust while in a table? anything that is adjustable from the top?


Also,,,,for 1/4 inch boxjoints in 3/4" thick hardwood....What kind of bit should I be looking at? A slotcutter?,,,in upcut/downcut??? There seems to be even more choices of bits than there are router choices..AAAaaahhhhhhhhh! My head is spinning!( er, pardon the pun) 

refresher *1)* (the eternal question): *What router to get?*
.......and *2)* *What bit* for 1/4" boxjoints*?*
.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Shadrac, take a look at sears. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00917543000P?vName=Tools&cName=Portable+Power+Tools&sName=Routers+%26+Laminate+Trimmers

It would be a good "starter" router. 

For bits, you can use either spiral cutters, or straight cutters.


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## Shadrac (Feb 1, 2008)

*Results...*

Well..first off, sorry for the late reply....and thanks for the responses.

I made a simple 'box' style table for my router(a $17.oo 'cheapo' from Harbor Freight Tools)....and made and used a set-up based on the one Julie posted earlier....and the results were great! The hardest part was setting the distance between the rail and the bit to match the width of the bit...but after a few scrapwood 'test-fits' it was a breeze!

I actually ended up spending zero on the set-up, making everything from scrap. And I did my first finger-joint box, which I ended up making a lid for...and a recessed bottom, with a custom hardwood handle for the lid.
I gave it to my mom as a 'keepsake' box and she loved it!(as only mothers can do...lol).

Finally, I ended up getting a Crafstman Router today, model# 17542 for $79 on sale, based on Hamlins recommendation and some research( the 17542 is basically the 17543 but without the plunge base). This will be used primarily in a fixed table. I haven't tried it out yet....(it was too late by the time I got it home) so the anticipation might make it just a little harder to sleep tonight.

It has soft-start and variable speed and the motor is WAAAAaaay more powerful than my HF Tools router. It even came with a nice case!  

I forgot to take pictures of my box before I gave it away...but will try to do so with my next project(a bookcase) and then post them in the forum here if that's allowed. 

And, Lord willing, I will give a review of the router after I put it through its paces.

Finally,....thanks to each of you for your constructive responses.


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## Julie (Sep 11, 2004)

Great to hear you made the jig and the box!

My jigs are all made of scrap, and as I said before, the more you use the router and the more jigs you make from scratch, the more you will feel comfortable with all your tools and how to adjust them, etc. Practise, practise, practise!

I never did answer your previous question. I have a Hitachi M12V and I love it. It spends most of its time hanging upside down in my homemade router table (made from scraps, too). When I need to route by hand, I just pop it out of the table (like Bob does on the show) and in most cases I leave the oak-park big black base on it and away I go. 

Let us know how you enjoy your new router.

~Julie~


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

I'd say one could easily adapt this to a router table as well .....

Building a Finger or Box Joint Jig

Looks incredibly simple too. I think I'll try this one tomorrow actually


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## Duane867 (Oct 25, 2008)

Actually...... I think I am gong this route now......










Only shortening it up to fit the router table attachment on my BT 3000.


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