# Paddle/safety style on/off switch rated for PC 7518



## Poplarguy (Dec 19, 2017)

I've had 2 paddle switches go bad on my in my router table that aren't quite rated to handle the 3.25hp PC 7518, so I'm looking for a paddle-style switch that will handle the amp load safely. 

Anyone have input?

Thanks


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I bought a powertec switch but it was defective from the git go so I wound up buying a weatherproof box and using a common light switch. Not the ideal choice but it works and if it fails it’s cheap to replace. I took mine and mounted it on top of my fence as I work from both sides of my table depending on what I rout so the switch had to be able to follow me. Pictures would be a page or two back in my uploads.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> I bought a powertec switch but it was defective from the git go so I wound up buying a weatherproof box and using a common light switch. Not the ideal choice but it works and if it fails it’s cheap to replace. I took mine and mounted it on top of my fence as I work from both sides of my table depending on what I rout so the switch had to be able to follow me. Pictures would be a page or two back in my uploads.


That’s interesting, I also used a light switch once. Had no issues but it was a PC690 .
They also make 20amp light switches also if that’s an issue though


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

I bought a paddle switch from Rockler a couple of years ago - use it on a table with a Bosch 1617 router attached - works well.

https://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4...=B005W17FRS&psc=1&refRID=XQ0ZS442BVVD238CE3KQ


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

vchiarelli said:


> I bought a paddle switch from Rockler a couple of years ago - use it on a table with a Bosch 1617 router attached - works well.
> 
> https://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch


 vince that was my initial plan too using the switch with a the 1617 but i waited so long to build the table i ran across a mast r lift 2 for $279 awhile back and was going to go with my old 7518. so that rockler switch might not work with the big pc? i found a manual for the 7518 online but it doesnt say how many amps it is. it may be for a todays 7518. who knows if the specs in it still applies to a 1990s 7518


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

twmv86 said:


> vince that was my initial plan too using the switch with a the 1617 but i waited so long to build the table i ran across a mast r lift 2 for $279 awhile back and was going to go with my old 7518. so that rockler switch wont work with the big pc?


The switch is rated at 15 amp and the 7518 is 15 amp - I assumed they would work together.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I found I could turn my router off with my hip when I had the light switch, but personally I’d prefer the paddle .
I’m assuming there magnetic ?


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> I found I could turn my router off with my hip when I had the light switch, but personally I’d prefer the paddle .
> I’m assuming there magnetic ?


Most of these are mechanical. Lift the paddle and press the on switch, press the paddle and it pushes the off switch


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

My preference is a foot switch, from Harbor Freight. Step on the switch, machine starts. Get startled, and you automatically step back, therefore your foot goes off the switch, machine stops. Makes me feel a lot safer than having to find a switch you have to turn off by hand.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

JOAT said:


> My preference is a foot switch, from Harbor Freight. Step on the switch, machine starts. Get startled, and you automatically step back, therefore your foot goes off the switch, machine stops. Makes me feel a lot safer than having to find a switch you have to turn off by hand.


I had mine mounted on the front left corner . I just leaned on it to stop if I had to . Never thought of the foot idea though


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> I had mine mounted on the front left corner . I just leaned on it to stop if I had to . Never thought of the foot idea though


Had mine for years. They actually have two types. One, you step on the switch to turn it on, then take your foot off. Then you have to step on it again, to shut it off. Don't like that idea at all, might as well just have a regular switch. The one I have looks the same, but you have to keep your foot on it to keep whatever powered. I much prefer this type.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

twmv86 said:


> vince that was my initial plan too using the switch with a the 1617 but i waited so long to build the table i ran across a mast r lift 2 for $279 awhile back and was going to go with my old 7518. so that rockler switch might not work with the big pc? i found a manual for the 7518 online but it doesnt say how many amps it is. it may be for a todays 7518. who knows if the specs in it still applies to a 1990s 7518


Proper 20 amp 120 volt plugs are different then 15 amp 120 volt. If it has the factory plug that will tell you what it was designed for. Also I suspect if you were pulling over 15 amps your breaker would have tripped assuming that the outlet is wired properly. A 15 amp circuit/120 volt requires a #12 wire. If the switches you've had go bad are rated at 15 amp it may well be poorly manufactured devices, poor connections, or a problem with the router. If you don't have one, buy or borrow a clamp on amp gauge and check the amp draw of the router under use. That may require you using the router while someone checks the amp draw. Most motor have an initial very fast spike in amp draw and fall back to run load amps but the loading of the motor makes a big difference as well. The age and condition of the tool can make a big difference as well. 

I'd also make sure any switches you buy are UL listed. I've got several I've been using for a number of years and they have all done well. Pretty sure it's this one....https://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch

-Steve


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

sreilly said:


> Proper 20 amp 120 volt plugs are different then 15 amp 120 volt. If it has the factory plug that will tell you what it was designed for. Also I suspect if you were pulling over 15 amps your breaker would have tripped assuming that the outlet is wired properly. A 15 amp circuit/120 volt requires a #12 wire. If the switches you've had go bad are rated at 15 amp it may well be poorly manufactured devices, poor connections, or a problem with the router. If you don't have one, buy or borrow a clamp on amp gauge and check the amp draw of the router under use. That may require you using the router while someone checks the amp draw. Most motor have an initial very fast spike in amp draw and fall back to run load amps but the loading of the motor makes a big difference as well. The age and condition of the tool can make a big difference as well.
> 
> I'd also make sure any switches you buy are UL listed. I've got several I've been using for a number of years and they have all done well. Pretty sure it's this one....https://www.rockler.com/safety-power-tool-switch
> 
> -Steve


Steve: that's the item I linked to in a previous post, and the item I have on my router table, with a Bosch 1617 attached. That switch is rated for 15 amp and the 7518 is also rated at 15 amp but Tim indicated that Rockler switch won't work with the PC7518 - I'm not sure why.

I'm in the process of redoing my shop, and had an electrician swap out my (full) panel with a new one, upgrade my service from 100 amp to 200 amp and add a few extra circuits, including a 220 and several 20 amp plugs on their own circuit. So, I went from one circuit (and a bunch of extension cords) in my unfinished basement to several circuits to accommodate my tools, a basement fridge and freezer, each on their own circuit - something I've been planning to do for about 16 years - OK, I'm a procrastinator. I'll post pictures of the basement/shop redo when I've got all my tools in their final landing spots.

If that switch doesn't work with the PC7518 I'd like someone to explain why, as I'm fairly illiterate when it comes to electrical stuff.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

vchiarelli said:


> Steve: that's the item I linked to in a previous post, and the item I have on my router table, with a Bosch 1617 attached. That switch is rated for 15 amp and the 7518 is also rated at 15 amp but Tim indicated that Rockler switch won't work with the PC7518 - I'm not sure why.
> 
> I'm in the process of redoing my shop, and had an electrician swap out my (full) panel with a new one, upgrade my service from 100 amp to 200 amp and add a few extra circuits, including a 220 and several 20 amp plugs on their own circuit. So, I went from one circuit (and a bunch of extension cords) in my unfinished basement to several circuits to accommodate my tools, a basement fridge and freezer, each on their own circuit - something I've been planning to do for about 16 years - OK, I'm a procrastinator. I'll post pictures of the basement/shop redo when I've got all my tools in their final landing spots.
> 
> If that switch doesn't work with the PC7518 I'd like someone to explain why, as I'm fairly illiterate when it comes to electrical stuff.


The only thing I can think of is that the description states it is compatible with the soft start routers. Maybe the PC7518 starts at too high a starting amp draw? Of course if it becomes too much of an issue there are always mechanical starters that use heaters based on amp draw but that would seem very unusual for a standard tool. Those are used to aid in motor protection and we used those on large HP commercial AC systems and 3 phase equipment.

Sounds like some clarification is needed.


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## twmv86 (Oct 14, 2018)

vchiarelli said:


> Steve: that's the item I linked to in a previous post, and the item I have on my router table, with a Bosch 1617 attached. That switch is rated for 15 amp and the 7518 is also rated at 15 amp but *Tim indicated that Rockler switch won't work with the PC7518 - I'm not sure why.*
> 
> I'm in the process of redoing my shop, and had an electrician swap out my (full) panel with a new one, upgrade my service from 100 amp to 200 amp and add a few extra circuits, including a 220 and several 20 amp plugs on their own circuit. So, I went from one circuit (and a bunch of extension cords) in my unfinished basement to several circuits to accommodate my tools, a basement fridge and freezer, each on their own circuit - something I've been planning to do for about 16 years - OK, I'm a procrastinator. I'll post pictures of the basement/shop redo when I've got all my tools in their final landing spots.
> 
> If that switch doesn't work with the PC7518 I'd like someone to explain why, as *I'm fairly illiterate when it comes to electrical stuff*.


i haven't tried it yet. when i said that switch and the 1617 was my initial plan i intended on using a woodpecker plate that's drilled for the 1617. now that i lucked into an affordable mast r lift i can go with my old 7518. i haven't even built the cabinet yet for my new table. i've been pretty slow about getting it started. not an epic insulation type delay but it's been awhile. the backs been acting up a bit and i haven't been in the garage much lately. 
our house is only 2 years younger than i am and the panel is pretty small and almost full. when they buried the electrical to our house several years ago they put in a 2nd panel on the patio that hasn't got much in it. seemed strange to me but it was free and that's how the city hooked up the new buried line. i know very little about electrical stuff either. i might have someone come out and see if i need a bigger circuit or two out in the garage .


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

twmv86 said:


> i haven't tried it yet. i haven't even built the cabinet yet for my new table. i've been pretty slow about getting it started. not an epic insulation type delay but it's been awhile. the backs been acting up a bit and i haven't been in the garage much lately.
> our house is only 2 years younger than i am and the panel is pretty small and almost full. when they buried the electrical to our house several years ago they put in a 2nd panel on the patio that hasn't got much in it. seemed strange to me but it was free and that's how the city hooked up the new buried line. i know very little about electrical stuff either. i might have someone come out and see if i need a bigger circuit or two out in the garage .


If you get a competent electrician he'll like suggest running a single line into the garage and install a sun-panel. Depending on the size of your 2nd panel it might be worthy to run a 60/100 amp line to the garage and have a 20 space sub-panel installed. You may think that you won't need near that much and probably don't but you'll have plenty of future power and space instead of any of those, wish I hada. The single line between panels will end up cheaper and easier than multiples later. Just saying.......at least get it priced and see.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

twmv86 said:


> i haven't tried it yet. when i said that switch and the 1617 was my initial plan i intended on using a woodpecker plate that's drilled for the 1617. now that i lucked into an affordable mast r lift i can go with my old 7518. i haven't even built the cabinet yet for my new table. i've been pretty slow about getting it started. not an epic insulation type delay but it's been awhile. the backs been acting up a bit and i haven't been in the garage much lately.
> our house is only 2 years younger than i am and the panel is pretty small and almost full. when they buried the electrical to our house several years ago they put in a 2nd panel on the patio that hasn't got much in it. seemed strange to me but it was free and that's how the city hooked up the new buried line. i know very little about electrical stuff either. i might have someone come out and see if i need a bigger circuit or two out in the garage .





sreilly said:


> If you get a competent electrician he'll like suggest running a single line into the garage and install a sun-panel. Depending on the size of your 2nd panel it might be worthy to run a 60/100 amp line to the garage and have a 20 space sub-panel installed. You may think that you won't need near that much and probably don't but you'll have plenty of future power and space instead of any of those, wish I hada. The single line between panels will end up cheaper and easier than multiples later. Just saying.......at least get it priced and see.


The original panel that my builder installed 16 years ago was a Federal Pioneer with 32 slots, but was full and we only had 100 amp coming into the house. Several years ago I spent a few hours tracking every light and plug in the house back to the panel - yes it was time consuming. When I decided to finish most of my basement I felt it was necessary to bring in an electrician and discuss my requirements with him. My feed from the meter ran under my poured garage floor into the panel in the basement and it was fairly easy for him to upgrade my service to 200 amp after Hydro disconnected the meter. He then installed a new panel that has capacity for 80 breakers and after having him run 220 into the shop as well as a 20 amp circuit and two 15 amp circuits I have a lot of room for further expansion. At the same time I had him install a whole-home surge protector. Yes, it was a little costly, but I feel it was well worth it, and as I said earlier, I've been thinking about doing this for a number of years.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Not sure I've ever seen a residential 200 amp panel with 80 circuits. I have seen plenty of 40 space 80 circuit panels but those allow use of tandem breakers. My SqD 200 amp main panel has 40 spaces but is not approved for tandem breakers so I added a sub-panel. 

I added a sub-panel for the observatory feeding it with a 60 amp line not that it needed that much but I also keep the camper plugged in so that's 15 max in itself. Everything else, computer, mount, focuser, CCD camera w/8 position filter wheel, dew heaters, roof drive system (3 ph using an AC motor controller), lights and receptacles (including 2 GFI) probably take less than 5 amps. But the GFI's can take a full 20 amp load if needed. You never know. The sub-panel in the observatory is 20 space of which I'm using 10. More is better and cost is usually less for the more common sizes. I think a 16 space was more money as it's not as popular.

For those looking to replace or add on to your panels, look for national brands and see if they are approved to take tandem breakers. A tandem breaker is usually a dual 115 volt 15 or 20 amp double breaker (2 switches) that fits in a single space. It can get you out of a pinch sometimes. But do not attempt to use one in a panel not approved because there is s very good reason for that and you leave yourself wide open to insurance issues should you ever have problems. And insurance companies love to find reasons to decline a claim.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

I've found that light switches don't last on high start-up current things. A soft-start router probably doesn't have the same start-up surge as an older tool might, though. On my table, I put a switch like the pic below. The 2 pole ones are the same price as a single pole. If you use one pole only you have a spare pole if you burn one set of contacts.  Or... you could bridge the contacts and it will likely last longer.

That switch is 2 pole, 20 amps, 2 HP (about C$10 at Busy Bee Tools). I believe routers are rated at some other (somewhat exaggerated?) type of HP.

It would be hard to trip those switches accidentally as you have to pull the flap up. I mounted mine so that the router plug is accessible from the back of the metal box.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

https://www.busybeetools.com/products/rocker-switch-2-pole-2hp-20a-csa.html


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

sreilly said:


> Not sure I've ever seen a residential 200 amp panel with 80 circuits. I have seen plenty of 40 space 80 circuit panels but those allow use of tandem breakers. My SqD 200 amp main panel has 40 spaces but is not approved for tandem breakers so I added a sub-panel.
> 
> I added a sub-panel for the observatory feeding it with a 60 amp line not that it needed that much but I also keep the camper plugged in so that's 15 max in itself. Everything else, computer, mount, focuser, CCD camera w/8 position filter wheel, dew heaters, roof drive system (3 ph using an AC motor controller), lights and receptacles (including 2 GFI) probably take less than 5 amps. But the GFI's can take a full 20 amp load if needed. You never know. The sub-panel in the observatory is 20 space of which I'm using 10. More is better and cost is usually less for the more common sizes. I think a 16 space was more money as it's not as popular.
> 
> For those looking to replace or add on to your panels, look for national brands and see if they are approved to take tandem breakers. A tandem breaker is usually a dual 115 volt 15 or 20 amp double breaker (2 switches) that fits in a single space. It can get you out of a pinch sometimes. But do not attempt to use one in a panel not approved because there is s very good reason for that and you leave yourself wide open to insurance issues should you ever have problems. And insurance companies love to find reasons to decline a claim.


Steve: I should have clarified. The panel is a Siemens and has 40 slots, but is approved for the tandem breakers, so in essence, 80.


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## sreilly (May 22, 2018)

Appreciate that Vince, I thought I had missed a major change in panels.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

TenGees said:


> I've found that light switches don't last on high start-up current things. A soft-start router probably doesn't have the same start-up surge as an older tool might, though. On my table, I put a switch like the pic below. The 2 pole ones are the same price as a single pole. If you use one pole only you have a spare pole if you burn one set of contacts.  Or... you could bridge the contacts and it will likely last longer.
> 
> That switch is 2 pole, 20 amps, 2 HP (about C$10 at Busy Bee Tools). I believe routers are rated at some other (somewhat exaggerated?) type of HP.
> 
> It would be hard to trip those switches accidentally as you have to pull the flap up. I mounted mine so that the router plug is accessible from the back of the metal box.


How did you go about mounting it Paul? It doesn't look like it's meant to attach in a standard electrical box which was one of the considerations I went with when I was looking for a switch. I wanted it to be in a dust proof enclosure.


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## Poplarguy (Dec 19, 2017)

kp91 said:


> https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4...=B005W17FRS&psc=1&refRID=XQ0ZS442BVVD238CE3KQ


Guys thanks, somehow I didn't have the reminder set that there were responses to this question, so I missed all this. 

Anyways, this is the switch I've been running and am sorta dedicated to it since I cut the hole in my custom router table. It's rated for 2hp but up to 35 amps which is crazy since the PC doesn't draw anywhere near that and operates on a standard 15a circuit. This switch won't last with the PC 7518, or at least that's my experience since I've now been through 2 of them. 

Hoping for this style but heavier duty on a 110v circuit.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> How did you go about mounting it Paul? It doesn't look like it's meant to attach in a standard electrical box which was one of the considerations I went with when I was looking for a switch. I wanted it to be in a dust proof enclosure.


Charles, I cut out a rectangle on the back of a regular (exposed style) metal box and drilled the switch mounting holes smaller than the sheet metal screws, so that I didn't need to fiddle with nuts (there's little room beside the switch for fingers/tools). Then I put a plug and cover on the 'front' of the box. With the box mounted 'backwards' under the table. When parts shopping, if you have a choice of boxes, pick a deeper/bigger one. If I remember correctly I had to bend the tangs on the switch for clearance of the socket body. You can see it on my table 'here'.


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## TenGees (Sep 12, 2012)

Poplarguy said:


> ...It's rated for 2hp but up to 35 amps which is crazy since the PC doesn't draw anywhere near that and operates on a standard 15a circuit. This switch won't last with the PC 7518, or at least that's my experience since I've now been through 2 of them.
> 
> Hoping for this style but heavier duty on a 110v circuit.


There's a current surge when starting inductive loads (motors, ballasts, transformers etc.). It can be very high but momentary. That's probably causing a spark in the contacts of the switch. The spark burns the contacts a little each time you turn it on. I believe the soft-start on some tools reduces this problem. If you can find a 2-pole switch with the same specs as yours, you may have better luck by bridging the poles. Kinda doubling the capacity of the switch.


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## Pirate (Jul 25, 2008)

I made one for old 110 volt Unisaw.
Mounted a 20 amp wall switch in a box, mounted under fence rail facing down. Wood frame aaround the box and switch, with a flat wood slide, with a hole in it, fir the switch toggle.
Mounted a hinged wood paddle to push the slide, to shut off. 
Has worked good for 10 +/- years.
Actually built it, because, I needed a paddle switch, that would turn off shop fan, when Unisaw came on. 15 amp. service! 
Used 2 switches in a duplex box. 1 turned on as the other turned off.


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## bfblack (May 2, 2012)

I have the PC 7518 router and use the Jessem paddle switch (https://jessem.com/collections/router-table-accessories/products/pow-r-tek-remote-switch). I think I actually purchased the switch from Incra as part of a router package deal. Mine has no external marks to identify it as Jessem but it looks identical to what is shown on the Jessem web site. 

On a 2nd router table, I have a Rockler paddle switch and it has worked ok with both PC 890 and PC 6902. 

Both paddle switches are setup so I can shut it down with my left knee. The Rockler switch has a much bigger target but the Jessem is ergonomically ok.

For my work style, a dead man switch on the floor would be awkward for longer stock. If it works for you, that is great.


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