# Bit for tempered hard board



## Mr. Randy (Oct 22, 2009)

I have ruined a trim bit trying to use it on tempered hardboard. It was a cheap steel bit, probably the wrong type. Any suggestions about using a carbide bit? Don't want to ruin one of those. Thanks


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## rstermer (Apr 22, 2008)

I used a straight two cutter carbide trim bit on it and it worked ok. The bit seemed to still be sharp, but the length of cut was only 3' or so. It generated some really nasty dust, so make sure to wear dust protection and clean up thoroughly afterwards. If there is any way to do so, try to capture the dust as it is being generated, once it gets away from you, it is virtually impossible to capture it.

If you are worried about ruining an expensive bit, you may be able to buy an inexpensive one from supercarbide on ebay and save your good bit for another job.

rstermer


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Randy,

Hardboard is a man made material, in which just like MDF is hard on bits period. You may be wise to stick with cheap bits when working with hardboard. Ebay is the best choice to go for getting those cheaper bits. I'm sure Bj will be along shortly to provide a link to where he gets his bits.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Here's two spots to get some bits at the right price BUT take note about the shipping charge for the eBay items,that can kill the great price for the bit(s),, MCLS is always free shipping..

MLCS router bit and Katana index

eBay Store - Super Carbide Tools: Single bit, 2 pc Set, Set

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## Micah (Oct 11, 2010)

I was wondering about hardboard too. My 3/8 spiral had a very hard time cutting through 5/16 T. hardboard. Too deep for one bite? carbide good idea? Lower or higher rpm?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Micah

Use your low end bits at high speed,,,If you have a RAS,cut up some hardboard with the lights out and watch the sparks come off the cut,,,it's full of junk/sand/rocks,etc..and it's real hell on router bits.. the same thing is true for Lam.floor stock..

Take a look at your 3/8 spiral bit ,I bet you it's dull on the tips now and it's junk now  
I use a masonry blade to cut it and to put slots in place..once the blade wares down I keep them for slots and use the hand drill for the slots..(the norm is 2 1/2" to 3" in diam once it's down to the smaller size.) I use a 1/2" bolt for the harbor with a o-ring and a washers or two...

Just as a side note I wiped out a very high saw blade (10" Freud 80 tooth blade) cutting some Lam. flooring, that was a very hard lesson to learn..  and a 70.oo dollar error on my part...it will not now cut pine without burn marks in place..

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Micah said:


> I was wondering about hardboard too. My 3/8 spiral had a very hard time cutting through 5/16 T. hardboard. Too deep for one bite? carbide good idea? Lower or higher rpm?


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