# Extension Table And Fence Jig For Drill Press



## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Hi all,
I was intending to make a jig for my drill press see attached scan.
The design is featured in Woodsmiths Custom Woodworking Shop Built Jigs and Fixtures.
It says, " Install T-nuts. The next step is to install the four T-nuts that will be used later to attach the base to the metal drill press table.
To locate the holes for these T-nuts, start by setting the base on your metal drill press table. Then after marking the location of the holes from underneath the table, drill counterbored shank holes and install the T-nuts. "
My metal table has no through slots or holes in it. Table does have slots but as said not through ones.
Any ideas?
Peter.


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## BigCountry (Dec 29, 2011)

Gaia said:


> Hi all,
> I was intending to make a jig for my drill press see attached scan.
> The design is featured in Woodsmiths Custom Woodworking Shop Built Jigs and Fixtures.
> It says, " Install T-nuts. The next step is to install the four T-nuts that will be used later to attach the base to the metal drill press table.
> ...



I am thinking that you have the PC drill press from Lowe's?

If so, I have that same drill press. I drilled four holes through the table into the where the slots are located. I then installed T-nuts into the bottom of the wood drill press table. Next, you can thread the bolts from the bottom of the cast iron drill press table through and into the T-nuts located in the bottom of the wood table. It is stable and secure.

It was really easy to drill the cast iron and tap the holes.

I could probably post some pics in the next day or two.

Good Luck,

Keith


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Peter

Will the T-slots accommodate coach bolt heads? If so you could make a sheet material sub-base drilled and counterbored to take the coach bolts, nuts and washers, then mount your jig on top of that sub-base. saw off the protruding ends of the coach bolts if needs be

Regards

Phil

Edit: Snap, Keith!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Peter,

For what it is worth, I would put the t-nuts recessed into the top of the table.

That way, when you tighten the holding bolts, the pressure will pull the t-nuts into the table. If you put the t-nuts on the bottom of the table, the pressure may pull the nuts out of the table.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Phil P said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> Will the T-slots accommodate coach bolt heads? If so you could make a sheet material sub-base drilled and counterbored to take the coach bolts, nuts and washers, then mount your jig on top of that sub-base. saw off the protruding ends of the coach bolts if needs be
> 
> ...


Um, yes I was thinking of that possibility.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

BigCountry said:


> I am thinking that you have the PC drill press from Lowe's?
> 
> If so, I have that same drill press. I drilled four holes through the table into the where the slots are located. I then installed T-nuts into the bottom of the wood drill press table. Next, you can thread the bolts from the bottom of the cast iron drill press table through and into the T-nuts located in the bottom of the wood table. It is stable and secure.
> 
> ...


Hi Keith,
No I'm in the UK and I have a new SIP 01434 F20-16 Floor Pillar Drill. I was thinking I could drill through the table, but don't want to drill through it unless I really have to. A local machinist is doing a little job for me at the moment, didn't know if going through cast iron would be hard going, time consuming, you say not. Will think about this possibility. Duh  then again, I have the drill press raise the table and position it up on the rack and go through it myself. I think I have a metal cutting bit that will do and I think I can get away using WD 40 as a cutting fluid?
Peter.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Hi Peter

Cast iron is fairly easy to drill, easier than mild steel in many ways, just centre punch the holes and pilot any holes you drill. Use slow speed (500 rpm) and you should be OK. It generates chips rather than the spirals you see when drilling steel or many other metals. Personally I'd try to find a "non-invasive" approach before going into mole mode

Regards

Phil


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## friendly1too (Sep 25, 2004)

Welcome, Peter.
A couple of battens just a tiny bit thinner than your drill press table can be added on either end of your auxiliary table with a wider batten screwed or bolted to that, thus locking down your table.
Don


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Phil P said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> Cast iron is fairly easy to drill, easier than mild steel in many ways, just centre punch the holes and pilot any holes you drill. Use slow speed (500 rpm) and you should be OK. It generates chips rather than the spirals you see when drilling steel or many other metals. Personally I'd try to find a "non-invasive" approach before going into mole mode
> 
> ...


OK, "non-invasive" approach, with you on that. How would I attach the sub base to the table extension base, in a non permanent way? I've only put a little thought into this and the the only thing that springs to mind so far, is nuts, bolts washers counterboring, and then using some type of plug to fill the remaining holes in the extension table base?The cast iron drill bench does have quite big slots that will be fine for bolts washer, nuts.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> Peter,
> 
> For what it is worth, I would put the t-nuts recessed into the top of the table.
> 
> That way, when you tighten the holding bolts, the pressure will pull the t-nuts into the table. If you put the t-nuts on the bottom of the table, the pressure may pull the nuts out of the table.


Thanks James.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

friendly1too said:


> Welcome, Peter.
> A couple of battens just a tiny bit thinner than your drill press table can be added on either end of your auxiliary table with a wider batten screwed or bolted to that, thus locking down your table.
> Don


Hi,
I don't quite follow you could you explain a bit more?
Cheers.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

What he is describing is a wooden spacer block that is just a bit thinner than your DP table edge thickness, and butted up to the ends of the cast table. Then another board that overlaps the edge of your cast table screwed to the spacer and your sub base. The end spacers (and possibly another pair front and rear) would prevent the base from sliding around, the clamp blocks would hold it down tight. In the long run this might be the fastest and easiest method for the mounting because of the X pattern of grooving on the table. My Delta has that too and I can't figure it out. Straight grooves make much more sense.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

*Attaching Drill Press table*

Attached below is a photo showing a solution used by a previous poster.

I downloaded the photo but cannot recall the post.

This way, you do not have to drill the metal table.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Gaia said:


> How would I attach the sub base to the table extension base, in a non permanent way?


Hi Peter

Countersunk head machine screws into countersunk holes or pan head machine screws and washers into counterbored holes with pronged T-nuts inserted from the underside on the sub-base. I'd go for M10 or M12 if I were you, which may mean a poke around eBay

Regards

Phil


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Phil P said:


> Hi Peter
> 
> Countersunk head machine screws into countersunk holes or pan head machine screws and washers into counterbored holes with pronged T-nuts inserted from the underside on the sub-base. I'd go for M10 or M12 if I were you, which may mean a poke around eBay
> 
> ...


OK, nice one, sorted, cheers for that. Will go for the tee nuts think can use them in making my own jig knobs.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> Attached below is a photo showing a solution used by a previous poster.
> 
> I downloaded the photo but cannot recall the post.
> 
> This way, you do not have to drill the metal table.


Cheers.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> What he is describing is a wooden spacer block that is just a bit thinner than your DP table edge thickness, and butted up to the ends of the cast table. Then another board that overlaps the edge of your cast table screwed to the spacer and your sub base. The end spacers (and possibly another pair front and rear) would prevent the base from sliding around, the clamp blocks would hold it down tight. In the long run this might be the fastest and easiest method for the mounting because of the X pattern of grooving on the table. My Delta has that too and I can't figure it out. Straight grooves make much more sense.


OK thanks.


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

jw2170 said:


> Peter,
> 
> For what it is worth, I would put the t-nuts recessed into the top of the table.
> 
> That way, when you tighten the holding bolts, the pressure will pull the t-nuts into the table. If you put the t-nuts on the bottom of the table, the pressure may pull the nuts out of the table.


Point noted


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## rtaraby (Aug 20, 2010)

Peter, I attached my drill press table using four 1" earth magnets. The magnets came supplied with a small cup which I recessed and screwed into the bottom of the table. The magnets adhere to the cups and to the cast iron and make a good stable platform. I have been using the setup for about two years and it works well

Rick


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## Big Steve (Feb 12, 2012)

Rick, I like the sound of the magnet solution.

1. Does it keep the top from moving?
2. Is it difficult to remove if necessary?


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

rtaraby said:


> Peter, I attached my drill press table using four 1" earth magnets. The magnets came supplied with a small cup which I recessed and screwed into the bottom of the table. The magnets adhere to the cups and to the cast iron and make a good stable platform. I have been using the setup for about two years and it works well
> 
> Rick


Hi Rick, interesting, any chance of a couple of photos?
1" earth magnets, very expensive here.


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## Phil P (Jul 25, 2010)

Gaia said:


> Hi Rick, interesting, any chance of a couple of photos?
> 1" earth magnets, very expensive here.


Really?


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## Gaia (Feb 20, 2010)

Phil P said:


> Really?


Hi Phil,
I looked at the ones with the highest grade of magnetic material and greatest level of magnetic force.


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

*Drill press table*

A bit late to the game here but the attached offers an alternative to drilling out the table. I used a set of clamps from Rockler and ripped a filler sleave to go under the table to keep the clamp in place.


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