# question about table top



## MT Born (Oct 29, 2014)

I'm building my grandson a table for his playroom from 1X8 pine boards. I'm planning to use a kreg pocket hole jig to attach the 3 1X8s for the top. My question is should I glue the sides of the boards as well? Benefits or disadvantages?
Thanks!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

MT Born said:


> I'm building my grandson a table for his playroom from 1X8 pine boards. I'm planning to use a kreg pocket hole jig to attach the 3 1X8s for the top. My question is should I glue the sides of the boards as well? Benefits or disadvantages?
> Thanks!


are the boards paneled together???
the pocket screws won't allow for movement... use these style clamps instead...
http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?cat=3,41306,41309&p=40146

suggest splineing to put your top together...


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## jdonhowe (Sep 12, 2009)

Were you thinking of using Kreg screws to attach the 1x8's to each other (edge to edge)? If so, it apparently can be done- Google "Kreg jig edge joining". I humbly suggest (as a man without a Kreg) that with good mating edges, wood glue and reasonable clamping technique, you'll get strong and tight enough joints that neither screws or splines are needed.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

3/4 material...
for rigidity, flatness and wood movement...
splines will be to Dave's advantage...


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## denis lock (Oct 26, 2007)

Dave

You don't need splines. Edge-to edge gluing is stronger than the wood itself. Your problem is clamping the three boards together and holding them in accurate alignment while the glue cures. Use your pocket hole screws as a replacement for sash clamps. Just make sure you have a pieces perfectly aligned as you put in each screw - a long reach clamp over the spot as which you are screwing does the trick. Just make sure you are organised and can apply glue, clamp and screw two boards together within the open time of the glue you are using.

There are advantages to glue plus pocket hole screws. The glue results in a stronger joint than screws alone. The screws act as clamps and do away with the need for sash clamps.

Denis Lock - "Routing with Denis"


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

Benefits...stronger joint, will keep better alignment over time
Disadvantages...tougher to keep perfectly aligned while clamping

The "two birds/one stone" in this is splines as Stick suggested. Helps with alignment during assembly and more forgiving with store bought boards...slight imperfections, etc...

Assuming you have the tools, of course. Couldn't tell from your profile.


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## D1schram (Feb 9, 2015)

Biskets may be helpful as well.


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## MT Born (Oct 29, 2014)

jdonhowe said:


> Were you thinking of using Kreg screws to attach the 1x8's to each other (edge to edge)? If so, it apparently can be done- Google "Kreg jig edge joining". I humbly suggest (as a man without a Kreg) that with good mating edges, wood glue and reasonable clamping technique, you'll get strong and tight enough joints that neither screws or splines are needed.


I was very clear with my question, but yes this exactly what I plan to do. Thanks for all the replies I think I will go with glue and the Kreg Jig.


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

I think edge joining with pocket screws is overkill - I join edges with glue, use cauls to apply pressure during the glue up which also gets the faces quite even - minimal planing or scraping required.

To attach the top to the aprons, you could use the fasteners that @Stick486 suggested, but I prefer to use figure 8's. Easy to apply and allows for movement of the top with changes in humidity, etc.



Vince


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

A long reach clamp is really important for keeping the faces flat and aligned. I have some cast iron body long reach clamps from Harbor Freight that I use for things like this. Not very expensive, but if you're using pre cut stock and not flattening it yourself, you are going to have real problems getting them aligned. I'd also make sure you joint the edges so they are flat as possible. Finally, don't forget to set the grain direction the opposite way every board so you don't get twists that multiply because of the grain. Here's a link to a discussion of this Table-Top Glue-Up Tips

Having had the experience, I don't think biscuits are much help over glue, glue and spline or glue and pocket holes. The third alternative is what I'd do. 

I have a Freud LM74R010 10-Inch 30 Tooth TCG Glue Line Ripping Saw Blade that I use for ripping the unjointed side of a board like this. It gives a butter smooth finish that requires no further prep for gluing. 

Finally, I'd be very picky about selecting pre sized lumber, particularly from a big box store. I'd go shopping after they've restocked after a very busy weekend, when the selection is best. I've looked through 50-60 pieces to find 3 or 4 that were flat, no twists, with no cupping or other major faults. Also make sure the grain alignment works on all 3 pieces.

That's my 99 cents worth on the topic.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

denis lock said:


> Dave
> 
> You don't need splines. Edge-to edge gluing is stronger than the wood itself. *Your problem is clamping the three boards together and holding them in accurate alignment while the glue cures. Use your pocket hole screws as a replacement for sash clamps. Just make sure you have a pieces perfectly aligned as you put in each screw - a long reach clamp over the spot as which you are screwing does the trick. Just make sure you are organised and can apply glue, clamp and screw two boards together within the open time of the glue you are using.*
> 
> ...


ummmmm....
do you realize that you made a very very strong argument for doing splineing...
why all all the heavy weight negativity on splineing???


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

...Denis has some 'splining to do.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Tom; are you suggesting reversing the grain _end for end_, or flipping the boards top to bottom? ie looking at the end grains, one curves upwards and the next downwards.
Reversing the grain end for end invites problems with tearout when planing the completed panel...planing _against_ the grain in effect.
Just clarifying what you meant(?).


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Mark, plane, joint, mark again, biscuit slots, and glue.

Some of us can be critical if the tops are not perfectly flat and aligned. Others find pocket screw work better suited for workshop projects and those just entering the hobby.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

DaninVan said:


> Tom; are you suggesting reversing the grain _end for end_, or flipping the boards top to bottom? ie looking at the end grains, one curves upwards and the next downwards.
> Reversing the grain end for end invites problems with tearout when planing the completed panel...planing _against_ the grain in effect.
> Just clarifying what you meant(?).


Flipping the boards. Good point about the grain direction for planing.


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