# Drawer Construction Techniques Welcome



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I spent the day prepping some drawer stock for our kitchen cabinets. I hope I can get my tools set up in production like mode. It has been raining off and on for a couple of days so I scrounged through the lumber rack and came up with enough maple to build six of the drawers. So, with more rain heading our way, I am going to build those six drawers, then hopefully, the rain will move on and I can gather up the material for the remaining drawers.

With that said, your comments are welcome. I would like to keep the table saw available to cut the drawer bottoms.

The drawer sides need most of the work and all four pieces get a groove cut for the drawer bottoms.

I am trying to figure out how to set up my routers to do most (hopefully all) of the work. The big drawback is the router table doesn't have a miter track.

Thinking out loud...
*Router 1 (Triton)* - set it up with a straight bit and fence to cut the drawer bottom dadoes.

*Router 2 (Bosch 1617)* - set it up to cross cut a dado in each side near the end of the board. The rear piece of the drawer fits in the dado. Since I don't have a miter track, I am thinking about making a simple jig to hold both sides and attach an exact width dado jig over the boards. That is not as fast as using the table saw, but it should work.

*Router 3 (Bosch 1617)* - Use it in conjunction with the Porter Cable Dovetail Jig to cut the half blind dovetails (front of the drawers only).

I have all of the pieces for the first six drawers cut and ready to go. But, next week, I will have to buy additional material to make the lower drawers which are deeper that the top ones. I would rather leave everything set up so I can mill those pieces also.

Your thoughts - plan or no plan?

I will take some pics of the operation.
Here are the first two. 5/8 inch thick drawer stock ready to finish prepping for assembly.


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## MAFoElffen (Jun 8, 2012)

Good start.

So you have a skeleton-type frame, with flush, inset type drawer fronts and are going to use blind dove tail fronts like this?:








... with dado's cut into the sides to slide the bottoms in up into a dado in back of the drawer face... that is cut into the socket, between the pins.

I was with you with all until- You lost me when you went into the rear joining. 

You said "the rear fits into a dado" Did you mean that or a rabbet? (I'm guessing you might have meant the later, but....) If you are already doing half blind dovetails on the fronts... why not on the backs? You will already have the PC joint already setup for the same sized stock, right? If not that and doing a rabbet joint, then since you already have your dovetail bits out, another easier technique/effect, in the same tradition and styling (as the rest of your design) is a rabbeted dovetail joint:









Just a few ideas. (You had asked.)


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

My suggestion:

Dovetail Joinery with a Router - YouTube


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

Thanks for this, James. At my low level of experience, I think I will have more chance of success in making a strong drawer box with this method.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Hand Cut Dovetails, a different approach! - YouTube


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## Quillman (Aug 16, 2010)

And a mechanical approach.


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## bcfunburst (Jan 14, 2012)

*Drawer Construction*

I like your half blind dovetail construction for drawer sides to back panel. I used sliding dovetail to join fronts to drawers. You don't need any fancy jigs, just some measuring and a good fence on your router table, Oh, and a dove tail router bit. I just did 5 drawers for a red oak chest of drawers. You just need to mark your stop points on your fence to have all drawer fronts the same cut. I use a 1/4" straight bit on table mount router to cut the groove for drawer bottom panels also using stop marks on a temp fence face on my router table. Test cuts for every application using scrap pieces; general rule!!
I noticed in your photo of stock wood: The pieces marked BL28 are poplar wood. You can save some material by using one piece for drawer fronts instead of a second for an over-face. I am thinking you might not like how the poplar takes stain, though it IS excellent for painting.
Love to see when you have it all completed. Happy Routing!!


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

This is a handy router bit for doing down and dirty drawers.

Whiteside Drawer Glue Joint Bit


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> My suggestion:
> 
> Dovetail Joinery with a Router - YouTube


Thanks James. I like the ideas presented in the video.

Mike, that is exactly how the half blind dovetail drawer construction will be done for the drawer fronts.

Sorry if I confused y'all about the rear of the drawer. These are kitchen cabinets, not fine furniture so I see no reason to spend extra time on the rears. Nobody ever sees them anyway.

I took a couple of pics of some drawers stock left over from a previous project. Looking at the right end of it, you will see a dado cut in the side. The rear piece of the drawer simply slides into it. Glue and nail and it is a done deal. And it helps add rigidity to the drawer box.

What isn't shone in the pics is the fact that I rip off the lower portion of the rear piece flush with the drawer bottom groove. That way the drawer is constructed completely, then the bottom is simply slid into the groove from the rear. Stick it with a couple of nails or staples, or screws if you like. If the bottom is damaged later, it can be replaced and not the entire drawer.  

Thanks for all of the suggestions. I hope to get started later today. We are having monsoon type rains, and a few minutes ago, there was a loud explosion - like a cannon being fired - followed immediately by a loud electrical sound that sounded like all of the electricity in the power lines were being absorbed into a transformer. Scared the beejeevers outta me. Having spent my career working in a chemical plant, I was fearing the worse. But it only resulted in a brief power dip and all seems OK. I checked outside and around the house and all is well. We passed the smoke test. :laugh:

I hope all the ideas presented will help others that are working on projects that require drawers.

I also included a couple of pics from previous drawers that I built using the same methods I have described. They are in the buffet built late last year. They look good.
Mike


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> Hand Cut Dovetails, a different approach! - YouTube


Ha Ha Ha...NO! :nono:

At least not for 21 drawers.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

This is a good video demonstrating the PC Dovetail Jig. And he uses the Bosch 1617. That is what I am using.

And he cut the dado for the back piece.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> This is a good video demonstrating the PC Dovetail Jig. And he uses the Bosch 1617. That is what I am using.
> 
> And he cut the dado for the back piece.


Leigh D4R and a pair of '17's or the MRC23's here....
Leigh Dovetail Jigs and Mortise and Tenon Jigs


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Stick486 said:


> Leigh D4R and a pair of '17's or the MRC23's here....
> Leigh Dovetail Jigs and Mortise and Tenon Jigs


Well, I have the PC and I'm stickin' with it. 

Got the joints cut for the first drawer. I'll work on the others tomorrow.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

chessnut2 said:


> Thanks for this, James. At my low level of experience, I think I will have more chance of success in making a strong drawer box with this method.


I made some test drawers/boxes in May 2012 using that technique and found it very easy to set up and make the drawers...


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

MT Stringer said:


> What isn't shone in the pics is the fact that I rip off the lower portion of the rear piece flush with the drawer bottom groove. That way the drawer is constructed completely, then the bottom is simply slid into the groove from the rear. Stick it with a couple of nails or staples, or screws if you like. If the bottom is damaged later, it can be replaced and not the entire drawer.


I've made drawers exactly this way too, but I find myself wondering if this element of the design (cutting the back narrow so the bottom slides underneath it) is really a legacy that was essential with solid wood drawer bottoms, but not with a modern plywood bottom. A solid wood panel might shrink and need to be moved forward, or split and need to be replaced. But those aren't going to be issues with plywood. I guess one benefit of it still is that you can finish the box and bottom separately.


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

MT Stringer said:


> Ha Ha Ha...NO! :nono:
> 
> At least not for 21 drawers.


I know what you mean, it's videos like this that put me off hand-cutting dovetails too 

He's obviously very skilled at it, and it still takes him nearly 10 minutes to make one joint! I think making a box that way would take me all day.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

AndyL said:


> I know what you mean, it's videos like this that put me off hand-cutting dovetails too
> 
> He's obviously very skilled at it, and it still takes him nearly 10 minutes to make one joint! I think making a box that way would take me all day.


I don't have the patience to do that kind of work. :sad:


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

mt stringer said:


> i don't have the patience to do that kind of work. :sad:


+100....lol


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

*Drawer Construction*

Time to quit procrastinating and git-after-it!

I have enough material on hand to build six drawers so the last couple of days, I have been jointing, gluing up some smaller pieces to make them wider, and planing everything to 5/8 inch.

Yesterday, I set up the dovetail jig and made a couple of test cuts. I had to adjust the jig a little because the pins and tails didn't line up. I actually used a feeler gauge to adjust the two sides so they would be the same. Then the tops and bottoms didn't quiet line up so I went back and carefully measured the set up again. I finally got a fit I could live with. A little sanding or hand planing should make everything look nice. 

Today, I cut all of the half blind dovetails on all sides and fronts using the Bosch 1617 and the dovetail bit and bushing supplied with the jig.

Then in was time to cut the grooves for the drawer bottoms. The big Triton mounted in the table took care of that little task. 

Next up was the dado for the rear piece to fit into each side. This would have been faster on the table saw using a dado blade and the adjustable cross cut sled, but I decided to use a router and my exact width dado jig. It is similar to the one The Wood Whisperer built in his video.

Cutting those dadoes went smoothly. I got good clean cuts and the boards fit nicely.

All I have to do now is sand the boards. Maybe tomorrow. The rain has finally subsided, so hopefully, I can make a run to the lumber yard tomorrow and get the material for the remaining 15 drawers.

Here are some pics to go along with the above story.

Note to self: Order a dust port for the little DeWalt router. 
Mike


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Great day, Mike.

We have a couple of similar half blind dovetail jigs at the Strathfield Mens Shed that they want me to set up for dovetail boxes. Are they really difficult to use?


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

jw2170 said:


> Great day, Mike.
> 
> We have a couple of similar half blind dovetail jigs at the Strathfield Mens Shed that they want me to set up for dovetail boxes. Are they really difficult to use?


I am getting better with this thing. Finicky is the word that comes to mind.
PC suggests that you use material that is in one inch increments wide plus 1/4 inch. For me, that would have to be 4 1/4 inches wide. I couldn't go any wider than inches.

You have to center the stock on the template and adjust the stop so it will be the same each time. There is a stop on the left and right side that must be adjusted accordingly. It appears that if the board is off center by the smallest amount, the two pieces won't line up once they are put together. I tried to set mine with a dial caliper, which was hard to do since the knobs are in the way. And I used a manual caliper to measures inside distance to get the first board set properly. The boards are very close to being the same width with a couple off just a bit. That may be due to a slight difference in the width of the boards, even though I milled them all the same.

Another adjustment involves how the pieces fit together. One or the other (pins or tails) may stand proud a bit. To fix that, you need to either move the template towards you or away from you. I struggled with that also, but finally got it very close using a feeler gauge. The sander can take care of the rest.

My suggestion would be to watch the You Tube videos. I think I will have to go through the same set up each time I use boards that are different widths. :angry:

My next set up will be for drawer openings that are 9 3/4 inches so the sides will be probable 9 inches. If I can get 9 1/4, it will help with the setup. Regardless, I still have to adjust those stops on each side.

So, I guess it appears that the user will have to set up the jig each time it is used, may test cuts, adjust, recut...and so forth.

I say download the manual and read through it. It is not the most informative, but should give you an idea of the steps I described.

This video gives a pretty good presentation on how to set the jig up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Syyvnq-mS9A

Note: In one of my pictures, it shows the two sides and the front laid on their sides. I have marked the corresponding corners so I can identify them later. I saw this in another video where the guy marked all four corners. Set up the pieces on edge as the drawer would look assembled with the front of the drawer near you. Then lay each piece outward on its side. Start with the left front corner. Where you mark your board will be the bottom of each joint. I also made a pencil mark indicating where the groove will be cut for the drawer bottom. Believe me, every little bit helps the ole pea brain when it comes time to insert the boards into the jig.

Hope this helps.
Mike


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## AndyL (Jun 3, 2011)

I have a cheap Wolfcraft jig that looks like it works on the same principle, and the other thing I find finnicky to adjust is the depth of cut. 0.2mm either way makes the difference between too tight, just right and too loose.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike this is a great idea for a thread and one that I will be watching carefully as drawers intimidate me .
I'm hoping there's some tips on setting up the sliders properly too . 

I think this should be a Sticky thread really


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Thanks Rick. I just reread my last post. Typos abound. I thought I had corrected everything. :sad:


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