# Spruce. Yes, spruce.



## TomB19 (Jun 27, 2011)

I went through my lumber pile and 90% of my 2x stock has some sort of split.  I'm trying to make a butcher block top for a work bench out of spruce and I don't want any cracks, if I can help it.

My lumber is all 6+ months old so it's probably getting pretty dry. I could pick up some fresh stuff from the lumber yard but wouldn't that just split over time? I'll probably treat the blocks with a clear barrier finish so that might trap some of the moisture.

What's the trick? Is there one?


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Tom; I'm really surprised that your lumber is wet(?)! All the SPF lumber out here in BC is kiln dried and wrapped at the mill. The only way it can get soaked is if the lumberyard isn't diligent about keeping it covered once the wrap is pulled back.
In any case, I'm also surprised your Spruce is splitting. Too much heat ie drying out too quickly? 
Spruce (and Pine) is pretty soft for a bench top; no Interior KD D. Fir available where you are (DF-N)?
Douglas Fir


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## TomB19 (Jun 27, 2011)

Thanks, Dan.

We have KD fir here. I even have quite a bit of it in my wood pile but I always thought fir split more than spruce so wasn't a good choice.

My wood is stored in a weather proof, but unheated, shed. It's uncovered outside at the lumber yard, though.

The only lumber yard that stores wood indoors is Home Depot but their stuff is so wet, my hands get wet just holding it. Crazy.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I feel your pain, Tom. I needed some D.Fir 2x10 last week, to machine into replacement window sills. The top three layers of material in the lift (at the lumberyard) were already covered with fungus, and wet needless to say.
The fifth layer had some nice, straight, almost clear, and nearly dry pieces. 
The daytime temp. has now dropped to 7 C., well below the minimum of 10 C. required for priming/painting with acrylic paint (the project is under a big tarp so it's staying dry). Now what...


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## TomB19 (Jun 27, 2011)

A quick description of the project is that I picked up a half dozen rolling tool cabinets. They are steel units with a rubber mat on top. They also have a small lip on the sides and back to position the upper toolbox.

I'm going to use them as tool stands for the drill press, sharpening station, planer, small miter saw, etc. To that end, I need flat surfaces on them and they're going to need to be at least 1" thick so I can route a groove for the metal lip at the top of the cabinets.

The cabinets look similar to this:


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

How about 1" D. Fir plywood? Downside; it ain't cheap. Edge with some hardwood, Birch or Alder maybe?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I would go along with what Dan suggested, either ply or mdf and possibly 2 pieces laminated. If you work on them they will eventually get beat up. Making them cheap and easy to replace would be a bonus in my opinion.


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## MaxK (Oct 1, 2012)

I'll be interested to see how this pans out. I have a similar chest from HF (a bit wider) that I had a similar idea for, with the intent of picking up another 2 or so if it works well. Those Lime Boxes look sharp. Good Luck!


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## TomB19 (Jun 27, 2011)

I'm building the tops out of MDF. I'll trim them with either spruce or fir.

I appreciate the comments, gents.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Tom; will the tops take a beating? Spruce is pretty soft for edging(?), and D. Fir splinters. Neither is a really desirable species for taking a sh*t kicking. Hardwood species are a lot more durable. 
Cheers,
-Dan


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## TomB19 (Jun 27, 2011)

Thanks for the note, Dan.

I know that you are correct and I appreciate the tip but I decided to use up some scrap spruce 1x4 I have laying around from another project.

These aren't going to be workbenches as much as tool benches. I'm hoping to get a couple of years before having to replace them.

The project is going desperately slow. My shop is currently unheated and it's taking forever for the glue to dry at 3C. I've only got 8 long clamps so I can only clamp edging onto two MDF fields at a time. With a heat lamp, I can do two glue-ups per night. This is going to take another couple of nights. lol!

Once the edge banding is glued on, I will coat it with floor varnish.

When it's done, I will post some pics. I'm looking for maximum function out of these. Appearance is only of passing interest.


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## Ben I (May 21, 2010)

TomB19 said:


> Thanks for the note, Dan.
> 
> I know that you are correct and I appreciate the tip but I decided to use up some scrap spruce 1x4 I have laying around from another project.
> 
> ...



As far as your edge clamping and glue curing problems are concerned, have you thought about changing glues. How about a two part epoxy? You can use brad nails instead of clamps.

Ben


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## Tom Brown (Jan 7, 2012)

Thanks for all the help, gents. We've had some family issues and this project has taken far longer than I'd like.

My shop is a disaster. I'm trying to get it straightened out after a whirlwind house renovation. Hopefully, seeing the condition of my shop will help you folks feel much better about yours. lol!

Anyway, I'm happy enough with how it turned out. The 6" bench behind these cabinets extends the work surfaces but this is where the dust collection pipes will come up to service machines on these cabinets.

If I were doing it again, I would certainly use maple trim. The few dollars I saved is entirely irrelevant. These are intended to be cheap, simple, and disposable. If one gets too natty, I can build another with two pieces of MDF and a few strips of solid wood. Still, hardwood would have made sense here.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

WOW! Tom, those came out really nice. If you don't mind. How much did those rolling chests cost you?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

TomB19 said:


> Thanks for the note, Dan.
> 
> I know that you are correct and I appreciate the tip but I decided to use up some scrap spruce 1x4 I have laying around from another project.
> 
> ...


You may want to use biscuit joints to attach the spruce edge. Avoids nail holes and allows for hand plane use to help finish. Having said that I now see the finished project and wow I am impressed, those look great. You will like the ease of moving things around and the portability.


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## Tom Brown (Jan 7, 2012)

Thanks, guys. I really appreciate your generosity.

I've added an image showing how the tops mount to the cabinets. There is a 1/4" groove routed in the bottom of the top to allow the top to register on the cabinet flanges. The image will show the story far better than I can explain it with words.

This project is brutally simple. In fact, that's the whole point. Two slabs of MDF and four pieces of trim. Butt joints.

George, I don't recall the exact price but it was something like $220 per cabinet. I wanted 8 of them but I cleaned out every Canadian Tire in Regina to get these 6 for the sale price. The tops are 29" long so this train of cabinets is 14' 6" long.

It was intended to be quick and easy but took far longer than it should have. Along the opposite wall, I am building custom cabinets, also all rollers but a bit larger. I'll try to post some pictures of that project. At my pace, it will probably be a few months. lol!


Thanks again for the support.


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