# Work Bench Make-over



## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Well, I have finished building the cabinets for my BIL, and a few projects around our house so now is the time to rebuild my work bench.

As some of you know, I am in a one car garage which has a lot of stuff in it. :frown: Not much working space, but I seem to manage some how.

So here is my plan. It may or may not end up that way, but this is my thinking.


Build a Ron Paulk inspired work table.
Use drawer/tray features Earl Davidson used in his build.
Demo the top part of the existing bench and re-frame it 11 inches lower.
Use the lower portion (including the three drawers currently in use). No need to modify them.
Drill dog holes on 4 inch centers.
??Use the Kreg Klamp Track if possible?? Maybe, maybe not.

I bought the plywood and have it cut to size (36 x 60 inches). That's as big as I can go and still be able to re-position my power tools as needed.

I am using 3/4 inch for the top and 19/32 for the bottom. I think that is about 5/8 inch thick. I hope to mount a paper roll bracket on one end and the table extension currently mounted on the work bench on the other end. By doing that, I don't see any need to cut out the waste. That would just take up time. Same goes for the two supports under the top...just leave them solid.

I have a tentative pattern laid out, and just returned from Rockler with a 1/4 inch spiral upcut router bit. The sawdust slinging will commence shortly!:surprise::grin:

I will post some pics as I go along. The last picture in this post is my current lay out. The new top will be about 3 inches wider front to back and about 11 inches longer.

Here are some links where I got my inspiration.

Ron Paulk Compact Work Bench










Jay Bates - Modified Paulk Work Bench





Earl Davidson - Modified Paulk Work Bench


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## herrwood (Apr 19, 2014)

Another project.
I get tired just watching you work.:grin:


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Nothing on TV last night so I watched a couple of these movies. The last one was interesting, I noticed that you plan to put the drawers under your workbench as he did. That really looks like a good idea, although one has to wonder how often they have to be cleaned of all the sawdust, etc. that falls in there. If I didn't have all the money tied up in the Kreg legs and the hard maple butcher block top, that may be something that I'd consider doing.

On your holes, are they strictly for clamping access or were you planning to use then for track alignment as Festool does with their MFT tops. I ran across this the other day UJK Technology Parf Guide System - Circular Saw Accessories - Sawing - Power Tool Accessories - Accessories | Axminster Tools & Machinery - from the rave reviews, it seems to be a very nice set-up for making your own top, very well thought out system in that the layout sticks are also used to assure that the series of holes are perpendicular to each other which would be needed if you're going to use them along with the dogs to set a fence square to the track. I was looking at the Festool replacement tops and thinking that would be the way to go if you were building your own as the Parf system seems a little pricey for a one-time use.

Lee Valley has a bushing to make your own jig for drilling the dog holes Dog Hole Bushings and Bits - Lee Valley Tools although the cost of their drill bit seems a little high as I've seen others cheaper although the question may be whether they're long enough to go through the jig and the top.

As far as the clamps, there was a discussion on the clamps a while back - one option for a thick top would be use the HF clamp, remove the head and attach the short piece of flat bar through the pin hole and use that to catch the underside of the bench. It would be easier than having the end of the clamp fall on the drawer every time as was happening in the movie.


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

You do all the things you do in a 1 car garage? Mind boggling.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

tomp913 said:


> Nothing on TV last night so I watched a couple of these movies. *The last one was interesting, I noticed that you plan to put the drawers under your workbench as he did. That really looks like a good idea, although one has to wonder how often they have to be cleaned of all the sawdust, etc. that falls in there.* If I didn't have all the money tied up in the Kreg legs and the hard maple butcher block top, that may be something that I'd consider doing.
> 
> *On your holes, are they strictly for clamping access or were you planning to use then for track alignment as Festool does with their MFT tops. * I ran across this the other day UJK Technology Parf Guide System - Circular Saw Accessories - Sawing - Power Tool Accessories - Accessories | Axminster Tools & Machinery - from the rave reviews, it seems to be a very nice set-up for making your own top, very well thought out system in that the layout sticks are also used to assure that the series of holes are perpendicular to each other which would be needed if you're going to use them along with the dogs to set a fence square to the track. I was looking at the Festool replacement tops and thinking that would be the way to go if you were building your own as the Parf system seems a little pricey for a one-time use.
> 
> ...


Thanks. I made a small jig and did some practicing on my existing table top. Even though I was diligent in laying out the holes and reference holes, somewhere along the line they got off just a tad. It doesn't have to be much. It probably happened when I marked the spot to drill and then positioned the piece under the bit on the drill press. That is where a CNC produced template would shine. Maybe I just can't do it manually.

So, the answer to your question is no to the parf dog style system. But having them for clamping purposes will be great. I already have been using the clamps we modified and they are working great. I will definitely be going back to my buddies house with another handful of clamps and the rest of my rod. Short ones this time. That is what I use most. $2.99 at HF! :surprise: You just can't go wrong with those clamps.

For those with thicker tables, Jay Bates showed what he did. He ground off the brad on the lower end, then sticks the clamp shaft into the hole from the top and reaches under the table, reattaches the clamp piece and sticks a nail through the hole, making the clamp hole again. I did notice in a later video, he decided to go a different route and made a modification to an Irwin quick clamp basically doing the same thing as I did. He cut part of the shaft off and reattached it with 45 deg miter cuts and some welding. I like my idea better than both of those.

My current table has holes but sawdust hasn't bothered me. I have lost a few screws over the years but I retrieved them last week. My top is so heavy, it just sits on top of the frame. I managed to lift and scoot it over and there were the screws and a Bosch knob that holds the dust port on the router! I wondered what happened to that thing. :surprise::smile:

In his video, Earl said he cut some 3/4 inch dogs and plugged an area where he does most of his work. If he needs a dog, he reaches under and pushes it up.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I have all the pieces cut out, milled and ready for assembly. It took all weekend but I got it done.

Using a track saw, I cut 2 36 x 60 inch pieces for the top and bottom. One sheet is 19/32 and the other is 3/4 inch BC Sanded Pine.

Next I cut to length the two sides 9 1/2 x 60 inches. Then I cut 2 pieces for the ends and two middle supports. That worked out to be 9 1/2 x 34 5/8 inches. Since the plywood is two different sizes, that means the back side piece will be slightly narrower than the 3/4 inch thick front piece. That's OK by me.

Saturday, I made a template out of mdf, and sure enough, I screwed it up. After all the careful planning and lay out, when it came time to cut it with the router, I cut the rounded portion square. That was a temporary set back that added two hours to the day! :frown: To repair it, I fabricated a couple of corner pieces with the correct radius and edge glued them in place. And they are still stuck. :surprise:

That brings us to today. With the template in place (via screws), I commenced to cutting out the waste portion of the openings by using a 1/4 inch spiral upcut router bit and a 1/2 inch guide bushing. Obviously, that leaves a lip so I set up my trusty old 80's model 1 HP Craftsman router with a flush trim bit and cut the lip away. That makes two routers in action. :smile:

You might notice some dog holes in the sides and ends. There is room so I set up the templates and cut 'em out with a 1/2 inch spiral upcut bit in a 3/4 inch bushing. That made for a snug fitting 3/4 inch hole. Three routers in action! :surprise:

With all the holes and openings cut, I rounded all the edges slightly with a 1/8th inch round-over bit in the little DeWalt router. *Four routers in action today!*

I drilled pocket holes in all of the pieces so I can attach them to the bottom. I have some 1 1/2 inch trim screws that I will use along with gobs of glue to assemble the frame and attach the top.

Note that I didn't cut any material from the ends or the inside supports. I don't see any need. And I hope to work in a kraft paper roll rack on one end and maybe reattach the table extension on the other. I will have to wait and see how that works out.

Now with all that said, I am having a blast building the table of my dreams...many dreams! :grin::grin::grin:

I hope to start assembly tomorrow.

So, with no little helpers around today, it was just me 'n the boys - all four of them! :surprise::grin:


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## Tiny (Aug 12, 2012)

Looks nice. Is the top pine plywood?


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I can envision it already , this is going to be an epic build by Mike 
Love how you cut out the sides . This is going to be a very functional system. Definitely looking forward to seeing this come together


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## Rogerdodge (Apr 24, 2014)

I have and use the Parf guide sytem ; I find it it very straight forward to use.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Tiny said:


> Looks nice. Is the top pine plywood?


Yes, the whole thing. :grin:


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Rogerdodge said:


> I have and use the Parf guide sytem ; I find it it very straight forward to use.


Roger, it isn't the system. It is my lack of ability to create a template that is accurate enough so when I drill the holes, the parf dog system would work. :surprise::frown:

Note I am also drilling 3/4 inch holes also. Mainly because I already have money invested in several types of bench dogs.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

And then I had a dream last night! :surprise::grin::grin::grin:

I need to watch this video again before I go any further in my assembly.

BTW, y'all take note that I am typing this *before 10AM!!!* :smile:

Either this...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?annot...kSDLB2tTnBM&src_vid=JvAPW_YbOYg&v=uKCQT20RPD8

Or this.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Roger, it isn't the system. It is my lack of ability to create a template that is accurate enough so when I drill the holes, the parf dog system would work. :surprise::frown:
> 
> Note I am also drilling 3/4 inch holes also. Mainly because I already have money invested in several types of bench dogs.


Mike,

I ran across this video showing the use of a drill (router) jig for boring the dog holes in a work top,






I follow what he's doing up to the point where he puts the center locating hole in the fixture as it looks as if it's just eyeballed relative to the grooves - maybe if the fixture is always aligned the same way for every hole, any error in location of the hole relative to the groove intersection is consistently off. Must be, because it looks as if he got the pattern pretty accurate.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Yeah, I have watched it a couple of times. Not for me. Too many opportunities to make an error and throw the whole thing off. At least it would be if I was doing it! :surprise::frown:


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I had a good day today, and it ain't over yet! :grin:

Upon close inspection, I realized the openings didn't match. They were hand grenade close but not much else. So, first off, I screwed the two side pieces together. Then I got my router with the flush trim bit and ran it around all of the openings on both pieces. That resulted in perfectly matched openings. This is important because the tool trays will be accessible from both sides. Just push or pull them.

When I was finished, I used the router with the round over bit and eased the edges again. Looks much better and I am happy.

Before any assembly, I did a dry fit with most of the pieces. Lots of clamps. :surprise: It looked to me like I would have to do something with the two middle supports to make them pull tight with the front and rear side pieces. Well, Mikey, why don't you drill a few holes in them and use your recently modified Fe$tool style HF clamps to pull everything tight? :surprise::grin::grin::grin: OK. You can see in the pics there are three holes near the end of both of the middle supports. This worked great.

I started with the side piece that will eventually face me and my project builds. Glue and pocket screws attached it to the bottom. Lots of clamps held it square to the other pieces. 

Then I attached one end, and then moved on to the two middle supports. My home made 90 right angle jigs helped keep everything square.

Finally, I turned the bench around so I could attach the remaining end and the back side piece. More glue and screws, and a little clean up. I didn't skimp on the glue. I also used some trim screws to attach the sides to the ends and middle support pieces. 

And, BAM! just like that it is assembled!:smile: OK, the top isn't on yet, but you get the idea. One of the pictures shows the top resting on the structure. I am not quiet ready to attach it yet. I am still thinking about what else I want to do like a Moxon vise like Jay Bates built, either permanent or portable. And/ or what about the Kreg Klamp track on the old bench? I really like that thing. I've become really attached to it!

Here's today's pics.
More later.
Mike


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

That looks great Mike.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Looking good Mike, you're making me embarrassed about how little I got finished today.

On the Kreg track, wouldn't that require you to double up on the plywood top? And what would that do to your new clamps, would they still turn through the hole if the top was 1-1/2" thick?


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

tomp913 said:


> Looking good Mike, you're making me embarrassed about how little I got finished today.
> 
> On the Kreg track, wouldn't that require you to double up on the plywood top? And what would that do to your new clamps, would they still turn through the hole if the top was 1-1/2" thick?


I was thinking I would double up under the area where track would go with a little extra meat on the side. Looks like I would have to add it after I put the top on, or maybe do a dry fit and hold them in place with screws until I could turn it over and glue it good. Still thinking about it.

My helper is in the shop working hard. We have the top demoed, stripped of hardware and set aside. Dang I built a pretty solid bench a few years ago. It doesn't want to come apart! :surprise::grin:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike are you going to install that bench vise on the end , as I really like that idea .
After seeing you get this project underway ,I'd love to undertake a build like this . 
I sure like the storage area under the top


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

One thing I'm sure liking is Jay Bates Miter saw setup . How handy is that having a stop that you set and put your board up against for a consistent cut


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> *Mike are you going to install that bench vise on the end , as I really like that idea .*
> After seeing you get this project underway ,I'd love to undertake a build like this .
> I sure like the storage area under the top


Not sure about the vise just yet. I think the best thing to do is get the bench fully assembled and see what and how everything feels and looks. I have my drawing and so far all is well...except that I finally gave up on the old frame. It's just too much of an undertaking to retrofit almost everything.

So, I just pulled in with a stack of 2x4's and a new frame such as Jay's workbench is next on the list. :surprise::grin:

OOPS! Forgot the pics...
Like I said, that original bench was built like a tank. And it has served me well for more than 70 cabinet builds and numerous other projects.


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

I like it all, Mike. It looks very well thought and will serve you well for years to come.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Got a lot done yesterday. Today, not so much.

Yesterday, I cut all the pieces for the frame and got it assembled with glue and screws. Four legs and two identical frame pieces for the top support and lower structure to support the drawers and provide rigidity to the whole thing.

After assembling the two frames, I started on the legs by gluing the 4 inch bottom pieces to the 22 inch legs. These will be my support for the levelers to be added later.

While waiting for the glue to dry completely, I attached each leg to the top frame (building it upside down!). The with the help from my sweetie, we lifted the lower section and blocked it up so I could attach it to the legs. That worked out so well, that I had to trim half the width of my miter saw blade off the 11 inch filler blocks.

With the frame completely assembled, I used a 1 inch spade bit to drill holes in the center of each leg about 2 1/4 inches deep. With that done, I used a chisel to cut away a little on each hole so the 5/8 inch nuts would fit snugly...and they do! :grin:

Now it was time to break out the Gorilla Glue. This is the stuff that reacts with dampness and foams. I put some on each of the double nut combinations and tamped them in place with a hammer. Once the glue expands, foams and cures, those nuts will not move. :surprise:

We moved the frame out of the way and started the demo on the original work bench. I found a few more screws and other things that had been lost for several years. Then I moved the frame out of the way and sat the new one in it's new home! :smile:

This morning, before any further demo, I decided to see if I could find a home for the bench. Sure enough, my BIL (Archie) said he would take it. I loaded it up and made a quick delivery. As I was pulling out of his drive, I looked back at the table one last time. Kinda like seeing an old friend leave town for the last time. :frown::frown::frown:

When I was taking the drawers out, I found where I had signed it "Built by Mike Henderson Jan 2013". There have been a lot of projects start and finished on the table.

Now it is time to retrofit the existing drawers if I can and build new ones to fill the lower portion of the frame. That is the slow part, but it is easier to do it now before moving the new top portion over onto the frame.

Note I had to add a filler block so I would have a place to attach the dust control piping port. Much easier to do now than later.

More construction pics below...


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Today was the big day.

I started retrofitting a couple of the drawers from the old bench and that took a lot of time. Some of the materials used to build those drawers came from my original work bench built in 1988. 

I used my track saw to cut the sides down so they would fit. I had to use several filler blocks and spacers to get the drawer tracks to align properly. Now for the lower portion, all I have left is to build one new drawer and add some height to the middle one.

Around back, there is about 10 inches of unused space so I cut some plywood and put it in place. I didn't bother the screw it down. The weight will hold it in place. I am almost out of plywood so I may have to cut some pieces and piece them together for the last bit of the shelf.

Man, look at all of that clamp storage! Actually, that may change. I was just putting everything I could find to clear off the new table so I could move it.

Finally, it is time for the dry fit. For now, I anchored the new top to the lower frame with a few pocket screws. And the table top is just clamped for now. I still have a lot of work to do including but not limited to:

- install paper roll rack on one end (nearest the table saw) for the contractor kraft paper
- install a pipe clamp Moxon vise on the other end.
- install some of the Kreg Klamp track from the previous bench.
- bore the dog holes in the top

The good thing is now I can work on as I go. But for now, we have a work stoppage. There is a little guy having his second birthday today and we gotta go party with him! :surprise::smile::smile::smile:


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Looks like it is progressing well Mike.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Yesterday, I managed to cut and install the drawer runners in the three openings...and got one drawer built. That's a lot of drawer - 36 inches x 15 1/2 x 3 3/4 inches. Happy, Happy, happy. I finally have a place for my Woodpeckers Story Stick.

Then I started working on a project for my Kraft paper roll. Instead of a single board spanning the short end, I made a pair of brackets and screwed them to the bench just below the dog holes. More happiness! :grin: It fits perfectly in between the table saw and the table. Just reach and pull up what ever is needed. The scissors are in the drawer in front of you!

I think that is all for the weekend. More to come including the pipe clamp Moxon vise for the other end.


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## Shop guy (Nov 22, 2012)

Looking good, Mike.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

First project on the new work table! And the top isn't even attached yet!:surprise::grin:


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Made a little more progress today. I finished building the other two drawers for the top. After playing with them a bit, I decided I didn't like the way they operated, so I pulled each of the runners and added a guide to the side of each one. That made them work much better. Much happier now.

Finally, we just finished gluing and screwing the top to the frame. Yay!

Tomorrow should be a good day. 
1) Run the flush trim bit around the work table.
2) Run the small roundover bit around the edge on all four sides to ease the sharp edge.
3) Drill the dog holes in the table. YIPPEEE!


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## kklowell (Dec 26, 2014)

Man, that bench is nice! I wish I had the room for one like it.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Whew! I'm tired. Today was a good day! Even though I slept until 11:30 am, I still managed to get a lot done. And then there was the broken router bit, and a quick trip into Houston to get another one from Rockler!

First thing, I reinstalled the power strip and that made things a lot better. 

Then I ran the router with a flush trim bit around all four edges to flush the top with the rest of the table frame.

And, finally, the thing I have been waiting for. It was time to set up the template and start boring the 3/4 inch holes with the router and a 1/2 inch spiral upcut bit. I was doing pretty good, and things were going well until...oh look, a squirrel! :surprise::frown: Dammit, I lost my concentration for just a second and pulled the router before raising the bit, and SNAP! The bit grabbed the table and snapped in half. It also boogered up the top.:frown:

After a quick trip into town, and some lunch, I was back at it again and all went well for the rest of the 100 holes. When I got through, I ran the 1/8th inch round-over bit around all of the holes to ease the edge.

And now for the repair job. It just so happens I have a piece of closet rod 1 1/4 inches in diameter. Using the drill press, I bored a hole in a piece of 2x4 to act as a guide and clamped it in place. Then I used the Forstner bit to bore out the damaged part of the table top. Some glue and a plug from the rod and all should be good to go. I'm gonna let it cure over night, then re-bore the hole tomorrow.

I have a few spots that I need to repair where the plywood chipped either when the screws were driven in or the router tore out a chunk with the flush trim bit. I have some Bondo that will fix those up nicely.

In my pictures, you will see my "technical drawing layout" of where my wood vise is going to be installed. :surprise: I decided to use it instead of making a Moxon vise. I wanted to build the Moxon vise really bad (via Jay Bates video), but decided to pass. My 7 inch woodworking vise works just fine, so it will be used again. I hope to line it up with a row of holes so the pop-up bench dog on the vise can be used if necessary. 

Man, I am almost through with this thing. I still have to build a drawer and mount the vise, but for the most part, it is a done deal and ready for action.

And as mentioned before, the clamp mods work great. I am looking forward to the next project which will be some floating shelves for my daughter's house.

And then my wife said...I have a project for you ... :surprise::grin::grin::grin:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Gee I bet you weren't to impressed when you raised the router damaging the top  
And with your experience I expect more from you too Mike lol .

Hey Mike , when NASA says "Houston we had a problem " , I thought that they were based in Florida ? But Houston is in Texas. 

Btw your work stations looking awesome . At first I thought the holes on the side were to store tools below the top, but I see there access holes for the drawers


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Just about finished with this project. Damage has been repaired (used Bondo), a new drawer built and installed, and one of the retrofit drawers was modified so the sides are taller (similar to the other two). I also added a lip on the inside for a tray or router bit storage or whatever...that will have to come later.

The way I see it all that is left is to make some drawer fronts for the three lower drawers and install the woodworking vise. But for now, the bench/worktable is ready for action. Oh, and there is room underneath for another roll out tray for more clamp storage! :surprise::grin:

I will post some pics when the project is complete.

Happy, happy, I am.
Mike


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## woodknots (Mar 7, 2012)

Looks great Mike - sturdy, with lots of storage. I like it.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Hmm, anybody looking for a good deal on a Kreg stand with a maple butcher block top?

Looking good Mike, all kinds of storage there.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Loving the storage and really liking the addition of those new deep drawers you put at the bottom. I can hardly imagine being this organized


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

You should be proud of that it look awesome.


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

How did I miss this thread? I need think go back and read it from the beginning. Looks good!


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## coxhaus (Jul 18, 2011)

You should get a lot of use out of this bench. It looks very functional.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

I am almost finished with my work bench make-over.

Yesterday, I rolled on two coats of clear water base polyurethane finish (top only). It works well for glue clean up.

Today, I installed my woodworking vise. Originally, I wanted to build a pipe clamp Moxon vise but decided against it. My poor old vise was just laying on the floor with a sad face, so... :grin:

I took some measurements to determine the mounting location, then fabricated a spacer consisting of two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood and a piece of 1/4 inch mdf. I used a liberal amount of glue and staples to make the three pieces into one.

After the glue dried, I drilled the bolt holes for 3/8 inch bolts. Then it was easy to bolt the vise in place. And VOILA! Ready for action.

The built-in dog on the vise lines up perfectly with a line of dog holes on the table! :surprise::grin:

All I have left to do is drill a couple of dog holes and fabricate the drawer fronts for the lower drawers.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Getting closer to the finish line!
Today, I bought some plywood and made the three drawer fronts for the large drawers. I got them mounted and handles attached.

So, how did I do that?

Well, first I clamped a straight edge 1/2 inch below the drawer openings.

Next, I used a home made jig and careful measurements to determine where the handle would be attached.

Then, I drilled pilot holes in the drawer fronts.

Then it was time to install them.

I sat one front in place, then drove a couple of pocket screws through the pilot holes and into the drawer behind it.
After pulling out the drawer, I drove four pocket screws from the inside through the drawer and into the drawer front.

Next, I removed the two outside pocket screws and attached the handle, thus the holes were hidden because they were used for the four screws that hold the handle in place.

Rinse and repeat two more times, and VOILA! Done deal.

Tomorrow I will drill a couple more dog holes in the top and maybe attach another electrical box. This has been a fun project and is turning out exactly like I wanted.

Mike


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

That's the way I've always done it....... at least when I have knobs or pulls. Otherwise I use the little double-ended blind nails, drive the long end into the back of the drawer front, get it lined up with the drawer and tapwith a rubber mallet.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Today, I worked on the finishing touches for the work table top, and for now, I am calling this a done deal.

After installing the woodworking vise, there was room for a couple of dog holes, and a hole drilled in the repaired part of the top.

Also, I drilled a series of holes 2 inches from the support under the top on the left third of the top. This provides more clamping options, especially since I usually work on the left side of the table.

With that said, I still haven't decided whether or not to install the Kreg Klamp track saved from the old work bench. Only time will tell.

Thanks for following my adventure.
Mike


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Mike I always enjoy watching your projects no matter how big or small , and always look forward to seeing what your building next .
Your work station turned out great , and I'll bet your very proud of the outcome . I can only imagine how helpful this new bench will be


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Mike I always enjoy watching your projects no matter how big or small , and always look forward to seeing what your building next .
> Your work station turned out great , and I'll bet your very proud of the outcome . I can only imagine how helpful this new bench will be


Thanks Rick. It is soo different from the old one, which was a good also. Definitely and upgrade for me.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Thanks Rick. It is soo different from the old one, which was a good also. Definitely and upgrade for me.


If I was to build one , I'm sure I'd find ten things I'd want to have done differently when it was completed . I'm terrible for that and it usually takes me three times to do anything right .
Luckily you had built one before , and knew the changes and refinements you wanted


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Thanks Mike it has been another great WIP. 

I'm pretty sure you have quite a large following of members who watch and read your projects with great interest.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

old55 said:


> Thanks Mike it has been another great WIP.
> 
> I'm pretty sure you have quite a large following of members who watch and read your projects with great interest.


Thank you, sir.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

old55 said:


> Thanks Mike it has been another great WIP.
> 
> I'm pretty sure you have quite a large following of members who watch and read your projects with great interest.


Ross I think admin needs to update MT's status to Forum Contributor


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Today was a fairly laid back day.

I took one of the drawers that is 16x24 x 4 inches deep and reconfigured it to fit the opening under the frame. That is an indication of how much wider the new work bench is.

The sides were too tall, so using the table saw, I ripped off 3/8 inch on all sides. Then I drilled 1/4 inch holes for the wheels! Yeppirs, the wheels are 1/2 inch scrap plywood cut with a 5 inch hole saw. Lastly, I added a handle to the front to match the other drawers.

The last task was to relocate the power strip. It had previously been on the right side of the bench, so today, I moved it to the center. I don't think it will be in the way. Only time will tell.

About those roll out drawers/trays. I know I have posted about them before, but if you missed it, they work great for those places that are not being used. I have three of them under my big tool boxes.

Mike


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Here is one last update.

After watching a video by Paul Sellers, I decided to apply some of his suggestions by modifying several of my cheap Harbor Freight aluminum box clamps.

It just so happened 3/4 inch plywood is a good fit into the box area of the clamps. I ripped the plywood 7/8 inch wide. To make the piece easier to insert, I rubbed all sides with paste wax, and got out the big hammer. It was a squeeze, but the clamps work as if they are new (which they are not). The plywood makes the clamps stronger and flex less.

I have a short one and several 24 inchers and a couple of three footers. If needed, I can clamp them in the woodworking vise like Paul demonstrated. First chance I get, I will make some pads for the clamp pads so the work piece won't get damaged.

Video link--->


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

He certainly makes a good argument for not needing bench dogs.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Paul has an interesting idea there . I would certainly incorporate a vice on my work bench so I could hold those clamps horizontally like that . 
I certainly wouldn't get rid of bench dogs , but it would be nice to supplement a work bench with that vice holding clamp also


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> Paul has an interesting idea there . I would certainly incorporate a vice on my work bench so I could hold those clamps horizontally like that .
> I certainly wouldn't get rid of bench dogs , but it would be nice to supplement a work bench with that vice holding clamp also


Yeah I am not a traditional woodworker so bench dog holes for hold downs and hand plane use are not really important to me.

What is important, are all the holes that provide clamping options so my stuff (like face frames) can be held in position during assembly. And I have built many of them over the past few years.

Looking forward to a good year.:smile:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

MT Stringer said:


> Yeah I am not a traditional woodworker so bench dog holes for hold downs and hand plane use are not really important to me.
> 
> What is important, are all the holes that provide clamping options so my stuff (like face frames) can be held in position during assembly. And I have built many of them over the past few years.
> 
> Looking forward to a good year.:smile:


Good point Mike . My interest is going to be in assembling stiles and rails , plus picture frames , so I think I'd be more inclined to have the bench dogs also


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

MT Stringer said:


> What is important, are all the holes that provide clamping options so my stuff (like face frames) can be held in position during assembly. And I have built many of them over the past few years.


Never thought I would quote myself:surprise:

But here is a picture of the worktable in action today. 5 clamps holding the exact width dado jig in place and securing the cabinet side whilst I route a dado. Dang that was easy. :smile:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

That looks like an awesome setup Mike . Dang , that makes a guy want to do a project


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## okie GW (Jan 6, 2016)

Wow that is a good looking bench.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

okie GW said:


> Wow that is a good looking bench.


Thank you sir. I am loving it.


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