# brass inlays



## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

I would like to add some brass inlays to a project I am working on and I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone may be able to help me with.

What would be the best method of attaching brass to wood? I'm thinking about 1/4" wide x .050" thick brass strips for the inlay into walnut.

Would it be possible to route brass? If so would you want to use the highest or the lowest speed setting on the router? I'm thinking about routing a shallow groove about 1/8" deep into a 1/4" thick brass inlay after it is attached to the wood.

Thanks


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI gregW

You can get the brass inlay stock in a roll that comes with glue on the back side..
Just pull the paper off and press it in place, the finish coat will seal and lock the inlay in place..
Check out you local craft store they have all kinds of brass inlay stock,from strips.rolls,flat stock you name it..


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gregW said:


> I would like to add some brass inlays to a project I am working on and I have a couple of questions that I'm hoping someone may be able to help me with.
> 
> What would be the best method of attaching brass to wood? I'm thinking about 1/4" wide x .050" thick brass strips for the inlay into walnut.
> 
> ...


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Hi!

Use epoxy to glue the brass into wood.

You are better off just using 1/8" strips of brass with the 1/8" strip of walnut between(rather than routing the brass). You can actually glue up the two brass and walnut pieces together first and clamp, then sand the three piece set up. 

I do not know the tools you have, but I make these up and use 1/4" or 1/2" stock and run them through the drum sander after to size the width and thickness. Then I do not have to worry about epoxy getting all over the place as I clamp it together. Of course you can lay in one piece at a time if you wanted.

Route the groove you need and glue in the Brass/Walnut/Brass strip in. Then just sand right over it until flush.

Use a Scotchbrite pad and go over the brass with it after sanding and it will really shine, then apply the finish.

Its a common thing inlaying brass in or with many of my floor inlays.

Brass is soft, but I find it still is not that great to route. People do it and I have seen brass and even aluminum routed, but I stay away from routing metal. I do think what you are considering will work though.


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

JB Weld.
West system of Epoxy.
Both have worked on brass for me.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

West has a simpler system now too for smaller projects that only requires a 1 to 1 ratio instead of the precise measurements of 5 to 1 for the traditional West system.

It called G Flex:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=8694&familyName=G%2Fflex+Liquid+Epoxy+Resin+and+Hardener+Kits


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## gregW (Mar 14, 2007)

Thanks for the tips. I was a little concerned that if I needed to sand the surfaces flush I would get little bits of brass in the wood pores but from Nick's reply it doesn't sound like it will be a problem. 

I definately don't want the inlay coming loose once it's in place so the epoxy sounds like it will do the trick.

I think I'll go ahead and try some test pieces to see if routing the brass is practical.

Thanks!


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

> West has a simpler system now too for smaller projects that only requires a 1 to 1 ratio instead of the precise measurements of 5 to 1 for the traditional West system.


Note, however, that it is less than half the strength of their regular epoxy. The 5:1 measurement is a breeze if you use the pumps.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

Still, look at the application he is using it for, definitley more than good enough. For a box or something not out in the weather West Epoxy is overkill anyway.


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## richosh (Dec 21, 2008)

I once attempted to make a chess board with brass strips between the dark and light. Gorilla glue held the brass to wood ok but luckily I tested a small section first. The brass has no movement and the wood does and my test section (3 squares by 3 squares) just popped apart in a few days. Live and learn. My strips were full depth. Not sure what would have happened if they were just 1/8 deep or so.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

HI richosh

Next time try some resin,,, it comes in a gal. can and you can mix the hardener that comes in a small tube,,,to let you move the parts around a little bit b/4 it sets up...it's as hard as nails and will hold just like nails..

Many trophy shops use it to hold the brass on the plaques 

Gorilla glue is not the best stuff to use on brass...the brass is not porous..

..
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richosh said:


> I once attempted to make a chess board with brass strips between the dark and light. Gorilla glue held the brass to wood ok but luckily I tested a small section first. The brass has no movement and the wood does and my test section (3 squares by 3 squares) just popped apart in a few days. Live and learn. My strips were full depth. Not sure what would have happened if they were just 1/8 deep or so.


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## dovetail_65 (Jan 22, 2008)

I do not like Gorilla glue at all for anything.


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## crquack (Oct 10, 2008)

> I do not like Gorilla glue at all for anything.


Amen to that!


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## DucatiTorrey (Oct 4, 2009)

*bending the brass and installing in a ring shape*

I was thinking of making a nice Bean Bag toss game, with a 6 inch hole 

in case your not familiar google search cornhole

i wanted to make it really nice, maybe maple, and add a brass ring around the hole

ive read a few places online on bending brass into a ring. any ideas here? also, i think ill use epoxy

any help would be really great

Jim


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## radios (Sep 30, 2009)

crquack said:


> Amen to that!


 i've found PC-7 epoxy to stick firmly to almost anything, and it's very strong.


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