# Router table fence



## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)

Good day

So, I made my new router table and of course I had to make new fence...took the camera with me and went to the garage...

I would like to share with you my method, nothing new, I made it also for the old router table and for the DP but if it will help one of the new-comers to the hobby...I made my money...

As you will see, I'm using a T-fence that positions the fence in parallel to the table...for me it's very important because all my "Bit to Fence" distance settings (I'll post it later) depends on parallel fence.

Regards
niki


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## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)




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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi niki

Nice Job

BUT I'm sure you know the fence doesn't need to be parallel to the table, it's a mind thing that many router table users get hung up on... 

I think may router users can't drop the idea from using the table saw where the fence must be true to the blade so it will not jam ..  or cut clean..

But on the other hand if one has a T-Slot setup it should be true to the front of the table top and run parallel to the bit, from one side to the other..  but the fence will not need to be....unless you use it for a guage...to setup the stock for the T-Slot sled but it should not be used for that...

That's the neat thing about the router and the router table it has one cutting point so to speak  the fence can be clamped to any two point on the table....


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> . . .
> But on the other hand if one has a T-Slot setup it should be true to the front of the table top and run parallel to the bit, from one side to the other..
> . . .


Ok -- confused here (not uncommon on a Monday)
I'm guessing that was a typo?
Otherwise -- how can my t-slot be 'parallel to the bit' since 
- as you point out -
the bit is a single point.

Honest question *not* trying to be a smart aleck -
- and nik - not meaning to hijack your thread.
Just designing my first router table - which will include t-track. 
Wanted to be sure I wasn't missing something.
Mind you - its been 35 years since I took geometry.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Just make the T-track parallel to an edge of the RT..


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

Nik / Mike
I was *pretty sure* thats what he meant -- since you can't (by definition) make something parallel to a single point.
But - I have been wrong before.

Also - ok - to be honest -- BobJ is usually so precise and explicit in his explanations. Catching him on even such a tiny point -- I couldnt resist pickin just a little.

Don't shoot me ---


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## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)

Hi BJ

I gottcha my friend...

Admit that you did not pay too much attention to the last sentence that states:
"As you will see, I'm using a T-fence that positions the fence in parallel to the table...for me it's very important because all my "Bit to Fence" distance settings (I'll post it later) depends on parallel fence".

And if you did but just made remark for the others...I apologize...

When I will post the "Fence-bit distance setting", you will see why it's so important for me.

Dragstor Cowboy

No, the fence on the router table does not have to be parallel (if you noticed, on the post "Not only glue line on router table" my fence is at around 30° to the table edge and still I'm not only jointing but also get consistent width along the board)...

The T-Track (or T-slot) also does not have to be parallel but...the unit (the sliding thingy) that slides on the T-slot, must be at 90° to the miter slot (I'm assuming that you don't use the miter sled together with the fence).
Saying that, I recommend parallel T-slot to the table edge

We are making the router table in rectangular shape traditionally but, actually it can be any shape including circle.
Oh yeh...and simple calculation...you are younger...

Regards
niki


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Cowboy

This is a hard one.... 

When the T-fence comes into play on the router table it must be equal at the front starting point edge and the end of the pass, lets say you have 12.000" at the front side of the router bit to the T-slot edge center, that must be true for all points of the T-slot track... "parallel" to that point..

Most router Mfg. don't put them in because it's got to be right on the button with the router bit most sleds don't go pass the bit to far once the cut it made but if this is out wack the sled will not do the job right.....many things come into play with a sled and it only takes one that's off to made firewood.. 

BUT now if you used the sled edge to the fence it's hard to make a error with a sled, the fence can be just about anywhere on the table table top just as long it sq. and true...

Let me say the best place for a T-slot track is at the front side of the router table in that way the track can be adjusted if needed...in or out...unlike the slot type down the front (3" in the norm) of the router table...

I should note ***** that the fence should not be a solid one piece type many router bits that you will use will take off the edge of the stock, i.e. bead bits for just one of many, you should have a way to off set the LEFT side of the fence or to say the out feed side....just like a jointer table 





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Drugstore Cowboy said:


> Ok -- confused here (not uncommon on a Monday)
> I'm guessing that was a typo?
> Otherwise -- how can my t-slot be 'parallel to the bit' since
> - as you point out -
> ...


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> . . .
> I should note ***** that the fence should not be a solid one piece type . . .you should have a way to off set the LEFT side of the fence or to say the out feed side....just like a jointer table
> ------------------


THAT is one of the first things I learned years ago.

As for the rest of your post -- I'm not sure I follow what you are saying -
But rather than get further afield from Nik's thread -- I'll save those questions for another time and place

Thanks/


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## simplenik (Feb 14, 2006)

Drugstore Cowboy

It's ok with me, go ahead and ask your questions

Regards
niki


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## seawolf21 (Jan 19, 2007)

*Lots of work on fence*

That is one cool fence. I built one myself and later added track to my table so it can slide up to the bit. For years I had just some slots in the table for it to slide in. Here is the one I use all the time. I even adapted my dust collector hose to the back of it. I can also slip shims into the outfeed side for jointing because this is a three piece fence.

Gary


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## Big Guy (Jan 12, 2008)

hi all

i bought some red oak to build a fence for my router table. after reading some of the comments on the forum it seem mdf or melamine is a better pick for the front of the fence. my question is , is red oak smooth enough for this.

big guy


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

Hey, Big Guy. You can use just about anything for a fence. Some have used a 2x4 clamped to the table. The reason most use MDF, melamine or plywood is that they are reasonably flat (square) and ridgid and will not warp like a chunk of solid wood. The main things are, it needs to be square to the table and not flex. If the oak isn't smooth enough for you just face it with some formica or even a good coat of wax will help.


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