# Dovetail jig



## Aparelo (Mar 1, 2009)

Hi, new to the forum and new to dovetail jigs…I just got today my Porter Cable's 4212 dovetail jig, have not open the box yet…maybe someone post this before but, any advice on how to use the jig before I go trough the manual? Maybe something “quick and dirty”? Any comments will be appreciated…


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Sergio

I know it can be a pain but do read the manual over and over and then one more time when you set it up...the PC 4212 has one of the best manuals..

no short cuts for this one,,, sorry,,,if you run into a item you don't get stop and go back until you get it...it will pay off the 1st.time you use the jig for real... 


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Aparelo said:


> Hi, new to the forum and new to dovetail jigs…I just got today my Porter Cable's 4212 dovetail jig, have not open the box yet…maybe someone post this before but, any advice on how to use the jig before I go trough the manual? Maybe something “quick and dirty”? Any comments will be appreciated…


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## Aparelo (Mar 1, 2009)

Thanks, I really appreciate your advice; I will take my time to read the manual then.


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

+1 on RTFM for this guy. People seem to complain about the way the manual is written but I had no real problems following their directions. Just go slow the first few times and have some extra pieces to experiment with.  

If you dig around at the Porter Cable web site (http://www.deltaportercable.com/jigs/dovetail/) you can find the "Advanced Joint Manual" for this jig. Lots of good stuff in there too.


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

I also use the PC 4212, and like it for fixed-spacing DTs.

A couple of points the manual might give greater emphasis to are:

1. the importance of following the suggested width increments of work pieces (one inch increments plus 1/4" for the standard template, and 1/2" increments plus, and 1/2" increments plus 1/8" for the 4215 mini template), and

2. the importance of being as precise as you can when centering the work piece under the template before setting the left edge guide.

Following those recommendations will allow you to keep the joints symmetrical, which is particularly important when making through dovetails. Errors in centering will be magnified, and can result in edge offsets when a box is assembled, for example.


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## Aparelo (Mar 1, 2009)

Thanks!

Now I know I should do some testing with “scrap” wood before attempting to build something…thanks again for the advice…


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## WoodBrewer (Mar 4, 2009)

yes read the manual and espcially obey the safety stuff.


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## tra2360 (Feb 11, 2009)

Aparelo said:


> Hi, new to the forum and new to dovetail jigs…I just got today my Porter Cable's 4212 dovetail jig, have not open the box yet…maybe someone post this before but, any advice on how to use the jig before I go trough the manual? Maybe something “quick and dirty”? Any comments will be appreciated…


I have this very jig.

I've tried many others, but with this one I get the best results with the least amount of setup.

The preset depth stops are a big plus, as are the instructions printed right on the jig.

You really DO need to read the manual, but it won't take long to read enough to do your first test cut.

have fun!


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## Aparelo (Mar 1, 2009)

Thanks! 



tra2360 said:


> I have this very jig.
> 
> I've tried many others, but with this one I get the best results with the least amount of setup.
> 
> ...


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## Aparelo (Mar 1, 2009)

I just want to tell you that I followed your suggestions and I read the manual…I followed it step by step while using the dovetail jig and after my third attempt, my dovetail join came perfect…this is in fact a really great tool, really easy to use and setup…


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## Ralph Barker (Dec 15, 2008)

That's great, Sergio.


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## dutchman 46 (May 23, 2007)

Don't forget to put pictures pf your work here, Every one will enjoy! A nice way to begin your members gallery


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## dirkost (Jul 8, 2009)

Hi Ho: Have been kind of frustrated today. Been trying to get my dovetail jig (PC 4212) to work on some drawers. The blind dovetail is really simple and it does both front and side at the same time. However, it is really meant to work with stock at least 1/2 inch thick. As you know 1/2 inch plywood isn't quite 1/2 inch thick, so it chops off the ends of the tails so they don't really fill the round socket. Well, not to be slowed down, I got the 4215 which is a mini template. The problem with that is that the pins and tails are so small that the dovetails are easily torn out even with climb cuts (right to left). Does anyone have experience with using this kind of jig with plywood?

*Now the real question*: After getting the 4215 set up with the supplied 9/32 7 degree dovetail bit for half-blind dovetails, it worked pretty well for about 3 sets of dovetails and then bean burning so bad the bit turned black. It now requires a lot of pressure and acts like the old steel bits when they got dull. It doesn't feel dull, but just doesn't cut right. Why? What should I do different? I didn't feed the router fast at all, so I just don't get it.


These drawers are made out of 1/2 inch agathis plywood which is a type of evergreen that grows in New Zealand. It is really pretty and has no voids in the plys, but...I really need dovetails because the trays are large and will carry a heavy load.

Thanks, Dirk


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi dirko

Using steel bits is real hard on them you should bit up a carb.tip dovetail bit, the glue and junk in plywood is real hard on bits once black (blue) they are done for it.. 

You can also use smaller dovetail bits for the 1/2" plywood stock.

16 pc 1/4 Shank Dovetail Router Bit Set For Leigh Jig - eBay (item 130379319075 end time Apr-06-10 19:34:33 PDT)


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dirko said:


> Hi Ho: Have been kind of frustrated today. Been trying to get my dovetail jig (PC 4212) to work on some drawers. The blind dovetail is really simple and it does both front and side at the same time. However, it is really meant to work with stock at least 1/2 inch thick. As you know 1/2 inch plywood isn't quite 1/2 inch thick, so it chops off the ends of the tails so they don't really fill the round socket. Well, not to be slowed down, I got the 4215 which is a mini template. The problem with that is that the pins and tails are so small that the dovetails are easily torn out even with climb cuts (right to left). Does anyone have experience with using this kind of jig with plywood?
> 
> *Now the real question*: After getting the 4215 set up with the supplied 9/32 7 degree dovetail bit for half-blind dovetails, it worked pretty well for about 3 sets of dovetails and then bean burning so bad the bit turned black. It now requires a lot of pressure and acts like the old steel bits when they got dull. It doesn't feel dull, but just doesn't cut right. Why? What should I do different? I didn't feed the router fast at all, so I just don't get it.
> 
> ...


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Congratulations, Sergio.. Now you're hooked!


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I use the PC jig & it works very well.


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## allthunbs (Jun 22, 2008)

Aparelo said:


> Hi, new to the forum and new to dovetail jigs…I just got today my Porter Cable's 4212 dovetail jig, have not open the box yet…maybe someone post this before but, any advice on how to use the jig before I go trough the manual? Maybe something “quick and dirty”? Any comments will be appreciated…


Hi Sergio:

There is no quick and dirty way to learn about dovetail jigs. I notice you're already follicly challenged. I wasn't before my first attempt with a dovetail jig but now I'm as bald as a billiard ball. The best manual is for the BusyBee version of your jig. You can download it from their site. busybeetools.ca .


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## dirkost (Jul 8, 2009)

Hi Ho: Thanks, Bob. However, the dovetail bit that comes with the 4215 is a 9/32 inch 7 degree *carbide bit* according to PC. Being a little frustrated I stopped by Woodcraft to pick up something I ordered and asked the folks there if they had tried the 4215. At least one had and guess what: He had exactly the same experience with burning that I had had. He eventually gave up and bought a Leigh jig.

On a positive note, the joints that the 4212/4215 produces are just great (except for the burning).

Yesterday I ordered some Amana carbide bits, so we'll see if that makes a difference. Maybe PC just got some bad bits. I actually didn't know that one could buy steel bits, but there are a couple around. For examle, the 3/16 inch straight bit that comes with the set is HSS. Why? No idea.

I didn't know that carbide turns black (dark blue if you want). Has anyone else had this experience with carbide?

Dirk


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

@dirko -

You mention that you were using an evergreen wood. What you are describing as burning on the bit sounds more like pitch from the wood that has burned and gunked up the bit.

The smaller size of the bits for the 4215 (or any smaller router bit) is going to run hotter than a larger bit. Clean the bit (oven cleaner or special bit cleaner or just some 409 and elbow grease, but also get a nylon bristle brush to do the scrubbing). With the smaller bit you need to feed slow, let the bit do the work and have a chance to clear out the chips.


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## dirkost (Jul 8, 2009)

Hi Ho: Thanks, Rob. My saw blades do get pitch build-up and require pereiodic cleaning. This bit, however, does not show any sign of anything other than a color change. I will clean it and see if that makes a difference. I admit that I'm not used to using such small bits and while I thought the feed rate was slow, I'll go even slower. I notice that if I should stop feeding the work it burns even worse. If it were a saw, I would expect something out of alignment or the wrong blade, but with a router I'm stumped.

Do carbide bits turn black when overheated?

Dirk


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## dirkost (Jul 8, 2009)

Hi Ho: Thanks, Rob. My saw blades do get pitch build-up and require pereiodic cleaning. This bit, however, does not show any sign of anything other than a color change. I will clean it and see if that makes a difference. I admit that I'm not used to using such small bits and while I thought the feed rate was slow, I'll go even slower. I notice that if I should stop feeding the work it burns even worse. If it were a saw, I would expect something out of alignment or the wrong blade, but with a router I'm stumped.

Do carbide bits turn black when overheated?

Dirk


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Dirk,

In my experience, going feeding too slowly *causes* bit burning.


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

I have used the PC bits to make many drawer parts with my dovetail jig & have not experienced the burning. Maybe it is a bad batch of bits.


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

BigJimAK said:


> Dirk,
> 
> In my experience, going feeding too slowly *causes* bit burning.


Yes, the key is slow versus too slow. With a small diameter bit trying to clear a slot the same as its own width, you have to get things right so the bit has a chance to throw chips behind it instead of getting them packed in. On that little dovetail bit, there can't be much of a gullet behind the carbide so I'd be willing to be it clogs up easily.

@dirko -
It is possible the bit is "bad". But you may have a tough time proving and getting remedy from the factory.

Clean it and if you have a diamond file, carefully hone the carbide. 

I believe the carbide can discolor from overheating.

Another question for dirko - how thick was your stock? For the smaller dovetails, generally you would be using proportionally smaller stock, say 1/2" (12.5mm) and thinner versus the 5/8" to 3/4" (on average) for the standard template and larger bit.


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## jschaben (Jun 21, 2009)

I'm far from an expert on dovetails but got to thinking(not always a good thing). Could you make a pass through with a smaller bit, say 1/8" spiral and the follow up with your 9/32 dovetail? Would likely be a PIA unless you set up two routers, but... 
just a thought.


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## dirkost (Jul 8, 2009)

Hi Ho: Thanks Rob and John. The stock measures 0.475 inches thick or 0.025 less than 1/2 inch. The inner plys look like baltic birch looks and have no voids. I will get some baltic birch and see if it acts differently. I kind of like your idea John. I run a scoring climb cut to try to avoid chip out. It worked at first, but as the bit got worse I did get tear out.

Thanks againi guys. I'll let you know how the Amana bits work when they get here and next time I would probably use 15 mm baltic birch and stay with the larger template on the 4212. Isn't experience wonderful?

Dirk


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## Peacepipe (Jun 8, 2009)

Looking at this same jig 4212. In the manual for through dovetails it mentions
"items needed 17/32" 7 degree dovetail bit" Would that mean my current 1/2 14 degree bit will not work on this jig?


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## rwyoung (Aug 3, 2008)

Peacepipe said:


> Looking at this same jig 4212. In the manual for through dovetails it mentions
> "items needed 17/32" 7 degree dovetail bit" Would that mean my current 1/2 14 degree bit will not work on this jig?


The key with the 42xx dovetail jigs is that the sum of the diameters of the two bits (DT and straight) be 15/16" (assuming you are doing through or the two-bit version of the half-blind).

So, the short answer to your question is that your 1/2 x 14 bit is unlikely to work. 

That said, you can use 14 degree bits for the single-bit half-blind mode. See page 44 of the supplementary manual (link below)

The 42xx jigs when new come with a set of bits. If you are buying a used jig then you can either purchase bits directly from PorterCable or aftermarket from companies like Whiteside.

http://www.deltaportercable.com/jigs/dovetail/SupplementalManual.pdf


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