# Track saw, should order one now?



## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

I've had the Dewalt track saw on my wish list for a while. Several times I've looked to buy one but nobody local stocks them. So each time I've faced the choice of waiting 1-2 weeks or making due with a circular saw and home made track that sort of works. Since I've always had a deadline, I've chosen to make do.
Yesterday and today I'm struggling with the 18v circular saw. I'm also struggling with the decision to order the track saw now so I'll have it next time I need it. 

I can get it on Amazon in about a week for about $600 or in 2 days for $660. This is for the saw and two tracks.


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

One trick I've been using is rough cutting with the 18v then running a router against a straight edge to get a clean edge.


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## Rogerdodge (Apr 24, 2014)

Just before you buy the DeWalt, my neighbour (who is a site carpenter) got one and found it much less good than my Makita; maybe he was just unlucky. He went for the DeWalt because you can trim doors in situ with it but for all other plunge/rail cuts the Makita much superior.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

I have the Makita and am very happy with it. I looked at different brands when I got ready to buy and went for the Makita based on the reviews and the price. The saw, container and 55" track are $406 on Amazon. and a second 55" track is $70. If you buy the second rail for long rips, you will need the connectors at $27. Obviously, Festool is the name brand, but the Makita has a couple of extra features - a slightly deeper cut (the blade is 5mm larger than the Festool) and the saw has a retainer in the base which engages with the track and prevents the saw from tipping while making a bevel cut. I've also read that the Makita anti-chip strip is preferred to the Festool as it is more durable (and cheaper doesn't hurt). So far, I'm happy with my choice.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Everend said:


> One trick I've been using is rough cutting with the 18v then running a router against a straight edge to get a clean edge.



use the saw against the straight edge and save a ton of money...
start with a better edge clamp... wide body is more gooder...
PRO-Grip Straight Edge Clamps 
add a guide plate(s) for way more versatility.. 
PRO-Grip Clamp Accessories - scroll way down...
all this beats single use...
take the 4/500 bucks in savings and get you more ''stuff''....


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

Save you $$$. Make one. Embed T track in ply. Attach the T track insert to the sole plate. Make all the lengths you need.


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

I'll revisit dewalt vs makita, I don't remember why I choose dewalt when I did the research last year. Makita may be available locally, I spoke with a supplier last week who was sold out but expected more this week. 

I want a track saw vs saving money because I've used all the other techniques mentioned and found them lacking. This may have more to do with my circular saws than the technique. My 18v is so beat up that it only gets close to cutting straight. I really dislike my makita 120v. It spits sawdust in my face and is not really designed for fine cuts. 
I the plunge feature of a track saw will be helpful and safer than plunge cutting with the circular saw. 
Dust collection will be very nice. 
As well as the track alignment features.


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

Gene Howe said:


> Save you $$$. Make one. Embed T track in ply. Attach the T track insert to the sole plate. Make all the lengths you need.


This is tempting. My fear is that I've already tried making similar things and have been disappointed with the results. I would need to start with a new saw, my 18v is beyond a tune-up being enough to cut straight. For reasons mentioned above I'm NOT happy with my Makita.

So if I need to buy a new saw and t-track and then spend the time to build the jigs... tempting.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Everybody needs a Festool Trak Saw or the equivalent, RIGHT? 

Not everyone has $400-500 burning a hole in their pockets. Convenient, yes, necessary *NO*! If you are a commercial shop, then it might be worth it. It will save you time and money. But, come on guys, how many of us *don't* have the time, or the tools/materials to set up a guide to break down sheet goods? 

Stick and Gene are spot on. I can do anything a Trak saw will do with a dedicated straight edge and a circular saw. I have mechanical straight edges, and home made straight edges. I suspect that they are just as easy and quick to set up and use as a dedicated Trak type set-up. 

Lately, I have been experimenting with the Matchfit clamps from Microjig. I have built a dedicated straight edge out of a piece of 1X and 1/4" hardboard. The clamps lock it into place and are never in the way of my saw. I have one for cross-cutting sheet goods and a longer one for ripping sheet goods. I have probably less than $15 in materials, $40 into two clamps (that are used for several other specific operations) and a few minutes of labor. No extra expenses for; track sections, connectors, replacement rubber strips, or any of the other EXPENSIVE accessories and replacement parts.

MATCHFIT? - MICROJIG - Work Smarter

Sorry, I just can't see spending the money for one of these systems guide trak systems. Then again, I guess that I'm just not one of the "Cool Kids" and have to own a bunch of tools like those overpriced green ones.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Everend said:


> I'll revisit dewalt vs makita, I don't remember why I choose dewalt when I did the research last year. Makita may be available locally, I spoke with a supplier last week who was sold out but expected more this week.
> 
> I want a track saw vs saving money because I've used all the other techniques mentioned and found them lacking. This may have more to do with my circular saws than the technique. My 18v is so beat up that it only gets close to cutting straight. I really dislike my makita 120v. It spits sawdust in my face and is not really designed for fine cuts.
> I the plunge feature of a track saw will be helpful and safer than plunge cutting with the circular saw.
> ...



I made one of the home made zero clearance style guides to primarily break down full sheets to a point where they are easier to handle. I like the fact that I can mark out what I want and line the guide up without having to measure an offset. I was still getting terrible results.

I finally decided to check the saw one day, after wrongfully thinking for a considerable time that it should have been made straight. Using a calliper as a depth gauge I measured from the blade to the edge of the sole plate and found that the back end was 1/16" farther from the edge than the front toeing the blade outward into the cut. It was no wonder I found it hard to use and that it was making ragged cuts. 

The back of the sole plate was riveted to the saw but the front was attached with a roll pin so I knocked it out and filed the side of the attachment point down with a file. When I drove the roll pin back in I put a flat washer on the side I was pushing away from to take up the slack. The saw is now perfectly aligned and with a good 40 tooth blade makes beautiful cuts.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Everend said:


> I'll revisit dewalt vs makita, I don't remember why I choose dewalt when I did the research last year. Makita may be available locally, I spoke with a supplier last week who was sold out but expected more this week.
> 
> I want a track saw vs saving money because I've used all the other techniques mentioned and found them lacking. This may have more to do with my circular saws than the technique. My 18v is so beat up that it only gets close to cutting straight. I really dislike my makita 120v. It spits sawdust in my face and is not really designed for fine cuts.
> I the plunge feature of a track saw will be helpful and safer than plunge cutting with the circular saw.
> ...


I have tried battery powered saws for breakdown and like you I find them very lacking. They are prone to low torque, too slow a speed, ragged cuts and dying at the most inconvenient time. I have an older Porter Cable 347 120v that I use for sheet break-down. It SHOOTS the waste out an exhaust in the shroud. It came with a tube ~3/4" that I can insert and swivel to direct the exhaust in any direction, or connect a DC hose (I use the Rockler small tool kit) to collect the dust. 

Again, probably not as cool as the Green tool and its DC hose, but it works. 

As far as alignment goes...don't get caught up in the hype! Even the Festool tracks have provisions to clamp the traks into place. No matter what you see and believe no trak will stay in place 100%. You might get away with just setting the trak into place and cutting, but if it moves one time you may have lost the material. I ALWAYS clamp guides into place.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Everend said:


> . This may have more to do with my circular saws than the technique.


you answered yourself...
I use a Milwaukee saw... no issues...
get you a Bosch instead,,,
the guide plate is the secret... 

but you have made up yor mind you want a track saw... get what want...


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> Everend said:
> 
> 
> > . This may have more to do with my circular saws than the technique.
> ...


Well I haven't ordered one yet so my mind isn't totally made yet.


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> I use a Milwaukee saw... no issues...
> get you a Bosch instead


Which do you recommend?


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

I use a Milwaukee with adjustable handle and, of course, sharp blades appropriate for the material.

For straightedge i use whatever is long enough and straight enough...hell, even a chalk line and hand-eye coordination works...

Save your money...get a good corded circ saw, good blades and a nice long level...multitask is "good eats"


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

Nickp said:


> I use a Milwaukee with adjustable handle and, of course, sharp blades appropriate for the material.
> 
> For straightedge i use whatever is long enough and straight enough...hell, even a chalk line and hand-eye coordination works...
> 
> Save your money...get a good corded circ saw, good blades and a nice long level...multitask is "good eats"


 I like uncle Brown too, but sometimes you need the right tool for the job. Does your Milwaukee collect dust?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Everend said:


> Which do you recommend?


corded or cordless???
remember it's the guide plate that is the crux of the whole thing...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Everend said:


> I like uncle Brown too, but sometimes you need the right tool for the job. Does your Milwaukee collect dust?


Nick and I have the same saws...
w/ DC hookup - yes...


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

Here's what I'm going to use today, right side for rough cut with the 18v and left side for straightening with the router.


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> Everend said:
> 
> 
> > Which do you recommend?
> ...


corded. I'll look into that Milwaukee


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DC...
the Bosch tools...
https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/dust-extraction-attachments-tool-specific-23478-c/
the saw...
https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/bo...n-attachments-tool-specific-csdchute-27180-p/

today the Bosch would be a better tool than the Milwaukee. DW or Makita.. 
now this for new today tools and not yesteryear tools...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> DC...
> the Bosch tools...
> https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/dust-extraction-attachments-tool-specific-23478-c/
> the saw...
> ...


it's a VOE thing... look to the saws on the shelf - pick a flavor... all of the DW's went to file 13 a long time ago...
also.. w/ what is being suggested is moving you from single purpose to multipurpose...

.


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

According to this review, http://www.finehomebuilding.com/2012/01/27/cs10-circular-saw

There is a lot of play between the blade and the shoe. This is the same problem I have with the 18v.


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## honesttjohn (Feb 17, 2015)

I got my SIL a corded Milwaukee for his birthday and offered to exchange it (I'd keep it) for something else, and he wouldn't give it up.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

Everend said:


> According to this review, CS10 Circular Saw - FineHomeBuilding
> 
> There is a lot of play between the blade and the shoe. This is the same problem I have with the 18v.


I have that saw.... and the 10....
I don't agree w/ the review...
I believe because the way Bosch did their saw (some what different than everybody else) it threw the tester off...
if you use the Bosh for a while and become comfortable w/ it then switch to say the Milwaukee... you need to learn the Milwaukee.. switch back to the Bosch after a while and it's a learning curve all over again...
the DC accessory for the Bosch works really well as where the DC on the Milwaukee works pretty good...
seems every body but one person leaves the Makita on the shelf...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@DaninVan..
could you review your Bosch CS...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

edited pic...

.


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## Gene Howe (Jul 10, 2007)

I use a Skil 77 worm drive. It's beast, but I love it.


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## CharleyL (Feb 28, 2009)

I'm using the 582 and 596 Wide Body Pro Grip Straight Edge Clamps from Peachtree and have been for years. I have an old B&D Corded Commercial circular saw with a thin kerf combination blade and also a DeWalt 18 volt circular saw, again with a thin kerf combination blade that I use with these clamps for breaking down sheets. I made a 1/8" Lexan zero clearance base for both saws and guides that fit the top of these clamps to keep the saws running true. Although I have to place the edge clamp away from the actual cut line by a fixed distance, I'm getting the same results that I would when using a track saw, so I've never purchased one.

I also made a cutting table for use when breaking down sheets outside my shop, but it has come in very handy when working away from the shop too. It's just a frame with banquet table legs. The legs are available from Harbor Freight and Northern. The frame is about 30" wide and 72" long made from 1 X 4 pine. There are five 2 X 4 cross pieces laid flat with the top edge of the frame, one in the center, and two more at each end, where necessary to attach the leg assemblies to their under side. All of the joints in the frame were joined with biscuits and TiteBond III, so there is no metal in the top 1" of the wood.
The only metal are the screws to attach the legs and two wood screws through square pieces of scrap on one side of the table. These screws are centered in the table frame, but offset in the squares of plywood, so they can be turned to be flush with the top surface of the frame, or turned to extend about 1 1/2" above the top surface. To load a full sheet on this table I turn these pieces so they extend above the table and then tip the table over on it's side with these pieces down against the driveway. Then I carry a sheet over to the table and place the bottom edge on these two squares of plywood, leaning the sheet against the table top. Then I reach down and pick up both the table top and the sheet until the table is standing on it's legs with the sheet lying flat on the table. I then turn these squares of plywood until they are flush with the table top and re-position the sheet stock so that the cut point is roughly centered on the table. 

When making cuts I set the saw for about 1/4" deeper cut than the thickness of the sheet, position the straight edge for the first cut, and then make the cut. I can cut dead center down a full sheet and neither half of the sheet will fall when the cut completes. I no longer use saw horses for breaking down sheets because of this. The 1/4" kerfs in the table frame are too slight to weaken the table. If I should ever live long enough for the cuts to affect the strength of the wood frame of the table, I'll save the legs and build a new top for it. 

After the first cut I can remove the off-cut, re-position the remaining piece, and continue cutting it down, again with no pieces falling to the driveway. 
When I'm finished breaking down sheets, I fold the table legs, which fold up into the recess in the bottom of the table, and I store it against the sheet stock in my shop or slide it into my truck to return to the shop. 

I've attached some pictures, but they are of my previous table. Two years ago the table became too heavy for me (I'm 75 now) so what you see in the pictures is my prior table with 2 X 4 edges. I scrapped it and made the lighter version, using 1 X 4 pine for the edge pieces and eliminated about 20 lbs of weight. 

If you have one of these tables in your shop and need expansion room for a picnic, this cutting table with a full sheet of plywood on it makes a great makeshift expansion table for a larger than expected picnic too. DAMHIKT. 

Charley


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I have a FesTool tracksaw and love it . Previously I'd use my Makita skill saw and a straight edge guide I bought from Canadian Tire , but the saws fence wasn't very tall , and the saw would go underneath the dam straight edge half the time as the sheet goods bent a bit.

If I would have seen some of the ideas here to use a skill saw with a home made track , I think I would have gone that direction instead, but the money's spent . 

I recently tried to cut two 2/10's on my table saw , as I needed boards 6-5/8" wide , and I wrecked them both . HD doesn't sell 2/8's 
Anyways I went to Home Hardware and bought two 2/8's , and when I used my track saw I got the cuts perfect . I'm certainly a big fan of track saws , and am glad I found about about them before I built a panel saw.

One bonus with buying the track saw I guess , is the track can also be used with my FesTool router with the proper attachment


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## SouthRider (Jan 8, 2013)

I had the Dewalt track saw and absolutely loved it. I switched to the smaller Festool because of their system (I have several other festertools), and it's fine too, but I miss my Dewalt.

Sold it to my brother in law and he raves about it every time I talk with him.

The Festool rails are a little "stickier" and don't require a clamp as often, but the Dewalt has great clamps. The Dewalt motor is fantastic and strong. The soft start is nice too. The Dewalt sits in the sweet spot in terms of power and weight between the large and small Festools. My small Festool is light and under powered.

Once you have a track saw and a couple rails you "find" ways to use it - forget all the old school ways. Straight lining, cross cutting, breaking down sheet goods, trimming doors and large panels - it all becomes easy. Take 1/16th to nothing off of an 8' board - child's play. With a good blade you have quality of cut equal to a jointed board. The only negative is a table saw beats it for many repeated same size cuts. I break down sheets into 1/8" over pieces and run them through the table saw for large quantities of identical pieces, but there are also parallel guides available made out of t-track that even out that equation.

From all I've heard the Makita is a great saw too, but if you've already picked the Dewalt just ORDER IT and don't look back.

Bought mine from toolup.com who had the best price when I bought mine and when a friend bought his.

Best of luck.


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

one thing I should clarify. I don't have a proper table saw. I have a DeWalt contractor TS which works great but only has 16" wide capacity (18" if I fudge it). Without a proper table saw, I'm not just doing plywood breakdown using a circular saw, I'm doing finish cuts with those saws.

My setup today worked pretty well with the little Colt cleaning up the edge after the 18v, but it would have been easier and quicker with a proper circular saw or a track saw.


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## Bob Adams (Jul 5, 2014)

Like most people, for years, I used shop made jigs for my circular saw. 6 or 7 years ago I was remodeling our kitchen and needed a saw that would cut 8/4 butcher block for the counter tops. At the time the only saw available was the Festool. I thought the price was stupid, but figured I could sell the saw when I was done and get most of my money back. I used the saw, made cuts I never would have tried with a circular saw, including the sink cut outs, and discovered I could make accurate cuts on full sheets of ply without using the table saw. Then we moved, and except for the track saw and miter saw, all of my tools went into storage. I built my shop with those 2 saws, did another kitchen with the track saw, cut an 11' slab for a breakfast bar, used it for breaking down rough lumber and the list goes on. As far as I am concerned the saw has paid for itself many times over. Add in that I use the tracks for my routers and I could not be more happy with the system. 
I am not saying that everyone needs a track saw, but personally I will never be without one.


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## rjunique (Jul 21, 2012)

I have the Dewalt DW 364K circular saw that has an adjustable shoe and when properly adjusted will cut very straight even when using a cheap Stanley straight edge. It only requires a light touch to keep it against the straight edge without bowing the straight edge.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

RainMan 2.0 said:


> 1... Previously I'd use my Makita skill saw and a straight edge guide I bought from Canadian Tire , but the saws fence wasn't very tall , and the saw would go underneath the dam straight edge half the time as the sheet goods bent a bit.
> 2... but the money's spent .
> 
> 3... One bonus with buying the track saw I guess , is the track can also be used with my FesTool router with the proper attachment


1... if the sheet bent/sagged you had insufficient support under the sheet...
also those wide body guides I linked to are well made. heavy duty and solid...
and what makes things reall work is the carrier... if you had one on your 1st arrangement you would have seen a major difference in your cuts...
2... way more than you needed to... and twice at that...
3... same for the carriers linked that were linked to..

use something like these... they get even better w/ a center rip and can be made from 1x', 2x's or plywood....
.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

Here's a link to a recent comparison of 6 tracksaws, including the ones mentioned here, plus the Grizzly, Mayfell and Triton. 

Track Saw Review | Tool Test | Woodworking

The Festool beat out the rest overall, but not by the margin you'd expect. DeWalt didn't do that well, and Makita scored very well with many of the same features as the Festool. The only shortcoming in the article is there's no mention of blade, so it's likely the author used the stock blade. Every saw I own does far better cuts when I use a premium blade. Most lesser brands supply an OK stock blade (probably to reduce the retail price), so I'd be interested in any feedback you folks have on the topic of replacement blades for track saws.

My own approach to breaking down sheet stock is rough cut a little oversized, then trim to exact dimension on the table saw with a premium blade. But I've been accumulating cash and this discussion has me tempted. 

One other seemingly minor point: I use 5'x5' sheet sizes, so a 55 inch track is too short, and 100 inches is way too long. I didn't notice whether any of them had a longer track, say, 65 or 70 inches. Anyone know if such a thing is available?


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

When I bought my Scheppach, which is the same as the Grizzly, it came with two 25 inch tracks. I use one of them for cutting smaller pieces and add one to the 55 inch Grizzly track when I need to cut up some Baltic Birch.

The saw isn't perfect, and leaves some sawdust on the table, but it has worked OK for me. Being older and not as strong as I once was, it makes good sense to break down the big pieces with the track saw.

And for $130 shipped via WOOT.com, I can't complain. That was 4 years ago.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Stick486 said:


> 1... if the sheet bent/sagged you had insufficient support under the sheet...
> also those wide body guides I linked to are well made. heavy duty and solid...
> and what makes things reall work is the carrier... if you had one on your 1st arrangement you would have seen a major difference in your cuts...
> 2... way more than you needed to... and twice at that...
> ...


Yes in my case the sheet wasn't properly supported . I copied those pics you posted as that could come in very handy . Great idea, Thanks Stick


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## Everend (Mar 15, 2013)

http://www.toolup.com/DeWalt-DWS520CK-Corded-TrackSaw-Kit-with-59-102-Track

The site posted above is having a sale this weekend. 

As for the price, I'm looking at this as time saved at work by using the best tool for the job, at least the best I can afford. So to answer an earlier question, who has extra time I break down using a less efficient method? Not I. 

I believe I would have saved about 6 hours on this job if I already had the saw. About 2hrs in actual time saved by working faster and 4 hours looking around for one to buy, talking with people about options, making a new shooter board for this job, since the one I had before was warped.


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

The cutting grid I made and use is similar to the one Stick shows, except with one less cross member - the end ones are 12" in and the others are 24" centers. It works great, even for 1/4" plywood, although it's good to keep the cut line close to the longitudinal member. 

I don't have it notched over the sawhorses, the assembly sits in a piece of plywood that has dadoes cut to accept the pieces - one day when I think about it, I should tack a couple of strips alongside the dadoes to retain the plywood strips a little better. It has been modified since this photo to include plywood flanges on each side so that it drops over the top of the sawhorse and can't slide off.


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## thomas1389 (Jan 4, 2012)

schnewj said:


> everybody needs a festool trak saw or the equivalent, right?
> 
> Not everyone has $400-500 burning a hole in their pockets. Convenient, yes, necessary *no*! If you are a commercial shop, then it might be worth it. It will save you time and money. But, come on guys, how many of us *don't* have the time, or the tools/materials to set up a guide to break down sheet goods?
> 
> ...


ouch!!


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## thomas1389 (Jan 4, 2012)

Try a new perspective. Let's say you have no "other" expensive vices. No booze, no smokes, no mistress, and the mortgage is beaten down. You're thrifty, family oriented and you've got decent health coverage.
There are no pockets in shrouds. I came from a large family, was taught to be thrifty, to make do, to go without. eventually I didn't know how to do anything but save. I have a good mortgage free home, a good wife and two grown children. I have good health. Until only a little while ago I was questioning everything I bought. Couldn't I make it and save some money? Do I really need it or is it being frivolous? I've got enough now to last my lifetime and most of my kids lifetime. To me the only thing it really gives me is peace of mind. I no longer have to worry about being poor. So, buy the Makita. I did and I like it. I don't use it enough to justify the cost but so what. I like it and no one lost because I bought it. Treat yourself, time is short.


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## billyjim (Feb 11, 2012)

I have the festool and I use it at every opportunity. Smooth, straight cuts. very good dust collection and a small footprint. Like Thomas said, treat yourself, whether it be the Dewalt, the Makita, the festool, or any other brand. Buy it and enjoy it.


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## jemangin (Oct 23, 2013)

I bought the Makita after seeing that review last year. It is a great track saw. I break down my plywood with it on top of styrofoam sheets.


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## SteveMI (May 29, 2011)

schnewj said:


> Lately, I have been experimenting with the Matchfit clamps from Microjig.
> MATCHFIT? - MICROJIG - Work Smarter


I bought a set / system of these at a woodworker show. They were pushing it for the Dado Stop option, which I have still not found that useful. But, with a fence or as a guide clamp they are darn good.

Steve.


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## SouthRider (Jan 8, 2013)

Festool has a metric track that is approx. 70", plus they sell rail connectors. I ended up with two 55's and one 70. Now the 55's stay joined together permanently.

Festool also sells the MFT table which has a sacrificial top made of mdf and clamping holes every few inches. Once I bought the mft I put my sheet of foam away and cut exclusively off of the mft, lightly scoring the table top. I've since added a matching height roll around cart for long cuts (in which case I through a couple 2 bys under the material).

When I had the Dewalt I used an old door on top of horses, and then topped with a sheet of 1" foam board, but I kept breaking off the ends of the foam.....

Now the mft table has a permanent home in the shop and it's great for the oddball 32" angled crosscut. Plus the mft has a built in track that is square to the table.


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