# Picture Frame Glass/Acrylic



## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

I am curious about where to buy clear inexpenxive sheeting to serve as the glass of a picture frame. Old Wal mart. Dollar General etc etc can sell a large piece of art (yeah I know) for less than I can buy just the acrylic.... and glass is about the same price as the acrylic.

I am trying to price out a framed football jersey (roughly 3'x4')and $52 dollars for a 3'x6' seems out of place. A lead in the right direction.... suggestions.. a dose of reality are all appreciated.


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## jsears (Apr 5, 2012)

Glass is going to be cheaper than plexi, by far. I use a lot of glass for different projects. You should be able to buy single strength glass for about $3.00/sq. ft. But what I have been doing is this. I find old window units that people have taken out of their houses when they replace them with the more energy efficient ones. They will give them to you for hauling them away. Craig's List is a great place to find them. Remove them from the frame, and you have a nice big piece of glass. You might have to remove a little paint from around the edges, but that's no big deal. 

I made a glass cutting jig, and it works very well. The cutter is somewhat expensive, but it it much easier to use than the el-cheapo cutters you normally find. Here is a link to the cutter. You can get it online, at Woodcraft or about any of the bigger craft stores like Hobby Lobby or Michaels. Amazon.com: Logan Glass Cutter Elite 704-1: Arts, Crafts & Sewing

Here are a few pics of the cutter.
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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

Morning,

Just finished the build on the same thing for my baby granddaughters baptismal gown. 52.00 is out of line but it is also the going rate; what can you do? In my case I used 3/8" thick front, back and sides (3x4' overall) and sealed it after a nitrogen purge of the case. Try a plastic wholesaler in your area as they may sell to you or have scrap your size. Given that I would charge apx 2500.00 depending on the outer wood shell, the 300.00 that I paid at a wholesaler for Lexan is not unreasonable. Try to avoid the Wal-Mart route as the thickness and quality of the plastic will lead it to self destruct in a few years if placed in the sunlight. The stuff I use is UV safe and the same stuff they use in airplane windows. 

Ultimately, what you pay for materials is directly related to worth of the item being displayed.

Good Luck
Baker


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## jsears (Apr 5, 2012)

The biggest problem with plexi, besides the cost, is that it scratches so easily. You have to be extremely careful with what you use to clean it with, and how you clean it. If you scratch it, you'll never get it out. And unless you get the very good stuff, and pay BIG bucks for it, it looks cheap.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Jim, appreciate the tip on getting glass....nice jig and reasonable price on the cutter and thoughts on plexi. Reclaiming glass is now on my list.

Richard.... thanks also on the info and tips.

I guess I need to get a bigger glass of water to swallow the price of the acrylic. I like using acrylic for the glass for picture framing due to its ease of use. You can cut it to size on the table saw.... Though not for this project I can see the use of glass in the future.


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## WayneMahler (May 17, 2012)

I have used Craigslist for free glass. But for top quality I go to a craft shop. I purchase the "museum' quality glass. It is uv protected and extremely high quality but you pay for what you get. I have been looking for a glass supplier that I could deal with directly that is not charging top premium prices for plain plate glass.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

I double checked with my local glass companys to see if I remebered their quotes on glass a couple of years ago as they were as high or higher than the acrylic local price. For 10.25 sf of glass they wanted $3 per sf plus tax. This is 1/16" regular window pane glass with no UV, the 1/8" is 41.30. The local acrylic price for 1/8 inch is $2.92 per sf which has some UV but you have the excess after cutting to size.

Yesterday ouit of curiosity at Wally World I found their price for a flimsy bendble frame that had a thin plastic/acrylic type glass 24x36 in size was $26. 

People complain about the price of having something framed but when you factor in quality material and the time to make it..... they still complain and don't get it framed.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Hey Jim that is a nice set up for glass cutting. If you don't mind, would you answer a few questions and are go into detail of marking/measuring the glass, lining it up with cutter and what you use or do to snap the glass after scribing it. Also the cutter is made with lips to ride the rail?

Thanks as I want to get all I need to make a similar set up as yours.


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## jsears (Apr 5, 2012)

Marco said:


> Hey Jim that is a nice set up for glass cutting. If you don't mind, would you answer a few questions and are go into detail of marking/measuring the glass, lining it up with cutter and what you use or do to snap the glass after scribing it. Also the cutter is made with lips to ride the rail?
> 
> Thanks as I want to get all I need to make a similar set up as yours.


Hey, Marco..

Thank you for the compliment on the glass cutter. The measuring and marking of the glass is very easy.

The first thing I did was to take a scrap piece of glass and scribe it with the cutter. I then took a sharpie, and drew a line the entire length of the base, where the cut line will be. It will be slightly right of the guide rail. 

Using the tape measure that is inlayed into the base, just lay your piece of glass, with one square edge against the bottom angle aluminum, and read the tape. Use a sharpie to make a small mark on the glass at the length you want. Turn the glass 90°, and line up the mark on your glass with the line on the base and scribe the glass with the cutter.

You probably know this, but one of the key things you need to do when cutting glass is to lubricate it before cutting. I use 3 in 1 oil. I just put a drop or two along the cut line, and then scribe it with the cutter using firm, consistant pressure along the entire length of the cut.

As for snapping the glass, I just slide the piece over to the edge of the base, and line up the scribed line with the edge of the base. A quick "bump" with the palm of my my hand snaps the glass cleanly. Safety would dictate that you at least wear eye protection and a gloved hand for this. But I have to admit, that I don't always do this.

If I have to trim off a very narrow piece of glass, I will use a pair of welding pliers that I picked up at Harbor fright for about $6.00. The wide jaws help in lining up the scribe mark, and prevent chipping the glass. 8" Flat Jaw Welding Pliers 

The Logan cutter has a guide on one side that works just like a Track Saw works. It rides on the lip of the aluminum guide rail. A drop of lubricant is also helpful here too. Not much. Just a drop or two.

I hope this helps you. I was quite surprised at how accurate and easy it was to cut glass the first time I used the cutter. I was kinda proud of myself:yes4::dance3:

If there is anything that I have not described well enough, or if any other pics would be helpful, just let me know.

Jim

I might add that I used a piece of melamine for the main part of the base. The face provides for a smooth surface that resists any oil that might get on it from cutting. Simply wipe off any oil with something like window cleaner or similar cleaning agent. 

One other recommendation is that you cut only clean glass. Dirty glass will shorten the life of the cutting wheel on the cutter. I use a concoction that I got off of the net. It consists of ¼ cup of white vinegar, ¼ cup of rubbing alcohol, 1 tbs of corn starch and 2 cups of water. Mix it up and put it in a spray bottle from the Dollar Store. I also added one drop of food coloring just so I would know what was in the bottle. You now have a window cleaning solution that cleans very well, leaves no streaks, and best of all, costs almost nothing since you probably already have the ingredients in the kitchen cupboard.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Thanks for the indepth answer Jim along with the tips and tricks. I hope to put them all in use in the very near future. I just need to get everything ordered that has to be ordered and pick up the rest locally in hand so I can get started.

I got very lucky today and was given a crate of 50 new mirrors 36x40. And yes all perfectly legal!!!


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## WayneMahler (May 17, 2012)

Jim
Thanks for posting this. I have been cutting mine by a straight edge and it can be a chore. I think this coming week end I will build something like your jig to aid in this, Greatly appreciated. Information like this is what makes forums so great. Thank you.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Well Jim I made a glass cutting jig a several months back and used it again today. It is no where near as nice as yours but I can get a straight accurate cut after working with it. I did get the logan glass cutter which makes it fairly easy after a little practice.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

jsears said:


> Hey, Marco....................... .The Logan cutter has a guide on one side that works just like a Track Saw works. It rides on the lip of the aluminum guide rail. A drop of lubricant is also helpful here too. Not much. Just a drop or two.
> 
> I hope this helps you. I was quite surprised at how accurate and easy it was to cut glass the first time I used the cutter. I was kinda proud of myself:yes4::dance3:...................
> 
> .


After ruining a couple of mirrors with bad cuts, I realized the pin that holds the cutting wheel was bent. My bad. I hated to pay $14 for 2 pins and 3 cutting wheels so I made my own pin out of a brad. It just needed to be cut and sanded/filed to fit. Hope this tip helps save someone a few dollars!


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## WayneMahler (May 17, 2012)

Jim
Thanks for posting yuor jig. I have been using a straight edge and this looks so much better. Looks like something will add to my list for shop projects when I get caught up. Thanks again.


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