# Totally disgusted



## rlbtn4171 (Feb 10, 2012)

Hi folks, I have yet to figure a way to route a simple dado. All Im trying to do is route a dado groove in 1/2" ply. Cant use an edged guide on the router. (Festool of1400). Have yet to figure a way to clamp a board in order to run router up against.
Just blew a 40.00 sheet of plywood over a stupid dado. Got to figure this router thing out. How do you all set it up.
Thanks,
Randy:bad::bad:


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## N'awlins77 (Feb 25, 2011)

What happened when you tried to clamp a straight board to your plywood, then route? I use an 8 1/2 ft piece of aluminum as my edge guide (to cut a sheet long ways). I just clamp it to my board on each end. But a straight board should suffice. If it's thick enough not to bend with the little bit of pressure you use to hold the router to your edge guide.


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## Marco (Feb 21, 2009)

Randy, what ever method/jig you use to make your dado test it out on scrap wood first. This link Perfect Dadoes Every Time | Article | Woodworking is for a jig that works.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

I'm not sure why you can't clamp a straight edge to your sheet. Another sheet of ply, mdf, or particle board is best, those edges are much straighter than lumber tends to be. When you use a straight edge you must rout in the correct direction. Working from left to right while you and the router are facing the straight edge is the correct way. You won't be able to control the router going the other way. The wrong direction is called climb cutting.


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## Chris Curl (Feb 13, 2012)

make yourself one of these. build a sled for a router. done.

Circular saw rail guide build - Woodworking Talk - Woodworkers Forum


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

This guy has a good idea. I made one and it works OK for me.
Making Jigs for the Router (woodworking) -- Part 1 - YouTube


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## Marcel M (Jun 14, 2012)

Here is your answer Randy (Time index 1:25)

Festool OF1010 Router - YouTube

This is the attachment that you need.

http://www.festoolking.com/products/festool-492601?gclid=CIXE4OTY6bUCFZCf4Aod7zcAIA


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

faster simpler...

something along these lines...
just don't waste your money on the Bora brand...

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?...campaign=PLA&gclid=CKrwnP3V6bUCFYtaMgodcXcADA


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## GulfcoastGuy (Feb 27, 2012)

Pick your fav from what's already been said ... plus ... Practice, Practice, Practice.

... on scrap ... You'll get there.

GCG


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## rwbaker (Feb 25, 2010)

agree with most, I just use a clamp-on guide and a spiral-up bit with the router in the hand configuration - this is the reason that many of us have 2 or 3 routers. Do not have to unbolt from the table and do setups on a continuing basis.

Good luck on your next sheet - Baker


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## michmags (Nov 25, 2011)

*Dado Jig*

Here is how I made mine and it has worked for me. This jig is actually 2 identical parts. Take a piece of hardboard (3/16 or 1/4") and attach a straight strip of wood at least 3 1/2" from the edge. The strip of wood should be no taller than 3/4", 1/2" is preferred. Once the strip is attached, mount the straight cutter you plan to use in your router( I use on a bit undersize to the dado I am making), make an index mark on the baseplate of your router, put the index mark towards the straight strip of wood and rout the edge of the hardboard. This edge is what you align to one edge of the dado you want to make and clamp in place. Make another guide the same as the first and align that with the other side of the dado. I use a piece of the stock to go in the dado as a spacer and align and clamp the second guide in place. Placing the index mark towards the straight strip of wood, rout one side the dado. Turn the router 180 deg, place the index mark against the strip on the other side and rout the other side. Clean out any remaining wood by moving back and forth between the guides. If you get creative, you can make the jig so that you can use 2 different cutters, just make the hardboard wider and trim the other side with the other cutter. Mark each side for its cutter and you have a dado jig.


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## markristow (May 30, 2011)

maybe the clamps you are using are not holding well. I have found the quick set clamps with the plastic handle you pump to lock them tend to come loose, try using clamps that have steel screw threads they hold a lot better.


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## MikeMa (Jul 27, 2006)

It sounds like you were pushing the router the wrong direction, or a climb cut. This can result in the router pushing away from the guide. Before trying a on fresh piece of plywood, do a few test runs on the scrap piece to get a feel for it. You want to push against the rotation of the bit. That will give you the most control, and will help keep the router against the guide.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

*Here is what I do...*

...and have been doing for years. For your Festool Router, a variation will be required.
This cheap contraption works better than any other method I (and my coworkers) have ever used. I can even make PERFECT tapered "dado" cuts. Wierd thicknesses, odd tapers, blah, blah, blah - no problem.

Good luck, 
Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


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## Marcel M (Jun 14, 2012)

OPG3 said:


> ...and have been doing for years. For your Festool Router, a variation will be required.
> This cheap contraption works better than any other method I (and my coworkers) have ever used. I can even make PERFECT tapered "dado" cuts. Wierd thicknesses, odd tapers, blah, blah, blah - no problem.
> 
> Good luck,
> Otis Guillebeau from Auburn, Georgia


Very nice blueprint Otis but usually the type of material used is specified on the drawing.


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## Marcel M (Jun 14, 2012)

This may help.

How to do a Dado Cut using a Router - YouTube


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

I don't clamp anything down. I use a straight edge of wood, with nail pilot holes drilled about every 1", tack it down with thin nails, and rout. Works very well for what I do. 

Does leave nail holes, but with almost all of my stuff the nail holes wind up hidden anyway. I'm working on a big wooden monster truck bank for the grandson just now, and every piece routed has nail holes. But they'll all be hidden. Even the outsides pieces, on those I rout one side, flip my master, rout the other side, then just need to make sure the nail hole side is glued down. I'm taking pictures, and will have a thread on it later.


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## OPG3 (Jan 9, 2011)

*Thanks Marcel!*



> but usually the type of material used is specified on the drawing.


For my situation, what works great is 1/4" MDF (bottom, wide parts) and 3/4" MDF (top, narrow parts). These can be made of differing materials than what I used. I found this in a magazine many years ago. All I do is stand-up the workpiece part that will fit into the dado exactly where it needs to be. Use clamps or another person to hold it while the pair of "tracks" is butted-up-against the part being temporarily held. Use 4- clamps (F-style usually work well) with 1- clamp at each end of each "track". For any groove wider than the bit to be used, simply route-out the waste part of the dado at the ideal depth. Since all of my dados have been over 1/2" in width, I use a 1/2" straight cutter.

Otis


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## rlbtn4171 (Feb 10, 2012)

Thanks for the replys. I just need to figure out a jig. Or I may have to invest in a short festool rail and also the really long one. I'm trying to route a dado in ply 6' 6" long then cross ways about 6". Can't get the rail to stay put on my table. I've not got it properly supported. SET UP SET UP SET UP

THANKS
Randy


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## Marcel M (Jun 14, 2012)

rlbtn4171 said:


> Thanks for the replys. I just need to figure out a jig. Or I may have to invest in a short festool rail and also the really long one. I'm trying to route a dado in ply 6' 6" long then cross ways about 6". Can't get the rail to stay put on my table. I've not got it properly supported. SET UP SET UP SET UP
> 
> THANKS
> Randy


If you buy a Festool Rail you can also buy the Festool Clamps. Buy the screw clamps not the quick clamps.

http://festools-online.com/index.ph...ml?limit=all&gclid=CPSwqqyJ7LUCFYqf4AodrXIAiQ


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## Willway (Aug 16, 2012)

*Better option.*



Stick486 said:


> faster simpler...
> 
> something along these lines...
> just don't waste your money on the Bora brand...
> ...


A better option for exactly the same clamp without the Rockler name and $15 less. Be sure to get the 'C series' clamps.

http://www.amazon.com/E-Emerson-Too...d=1362710731&sr=1-1&keywords=all+in+one+clamp


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## greenacres2 (Dec 23, 2011)

Willway said:


> A better option for exactly the same clamp without the Rockler name and $15 less. Be sure to get the 'C series' clamps.
> 
> E. Emerson Tool Co. C50 50-Inch All-In-One Contractor Straight Edge Clamping Tool Guide - Amazon.com


+1 on the Emersons. I got a set of 3 last year for under $50 (from Rockler i think), a 24", 36" and a 50". Should have bought 2 sets. Very good at their job.
earl


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## damnitboy (Mar 3, 2012)

I like Festool, but they missed the mark on their router guide. I hate the way you have to ride on that little adjustable plastic support on the outboard side from the guide rail. We just use the other side of the guide rail so the base can totally rest on the work piece. It works but just a scraped piece waiting to happen.
Infinity has a great router guide for around $80.00 but since it uses a 2" wide saw guide to ride on your limited to 4' length of cut. Just my opinion.

-Eloy


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