# Help choosing first router table



## Treborenal (Feb 8, 2014)

I'm news to the forum and to routing as well. I want a routing table and have a limited budget of about $500 for the table and I will probably grab a Triton router to permanently mount under the table. 

I have pretty much narrowed it down between the RT1000 series of tables built in Nova Scotia or the Craftsman Premium Die Cast Aluminum Router Table. I am needing some inputs from anyone that has experiences (goo , bad or indifferent) with any of these. 

I know that so many of those here will say 'build your own table' but I really don't have the time nor inclination to undertake this task at this time. 

Thanks for your time and inputs...

Rob


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Given the two choices you mentioned my vote would be for the RT1000.

The Grizzly T10432 is also a good choice.


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## Treborenal (Feb 8, 2014)

Thanks Mike for the Grizzly info. I looked at the Grizzly site and I really want a cabinet style table for aesthetics and storage. I am leaning more toward the RT1000 series based on reviews I've seen in other places and the pictures on the web site are pretty good and clear as to what it comes with. i understand they have sales a couple of times a year and may hang out until the next one. I've looked at the Craftsman and while the top is pretty nice, the cabinetry is pretty basic PB I think with a melamine overlay. Not a fan AT ALL of PB of any type. 

What do you think of a good strong router for a table that can be adjusted and bit changes made topside? I have been reading that many use Triton for these reasons and they have three powers available; up to 3.25 or 3.5 hp

Rob


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## Shortslvs (Jan 13, 2013)

Your price range leaves a lot of options. I am with Mike. Big difference btwn the CM and the RT. RT wins hands down.

For a bit more you could get an incra system. You could get a used one under your limit if you keep your eyes open here, CL or Ebay.

At that price there are very few tables you couldn't get.... oh I love Triton


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Rob, only you can decide which router is the right choice for you. The Triton TRA001 is popular because of it's crank handle for height adjustments; the dust collection is just as important to my way of thinking. The big Milwaukee 5625-20 was very popular during our testing of 3 + hp routers but doesn't have dust collection.

I prefer popping the router out of the table for bit changes/adjustments and I really like my Bosch routers. All of them have dust collection adapters available.


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## Salty Dawg (Jan 24, 2014)

I am new to routing also & have spent serveral months looking at alot of tables,reading reviews,watching videos. I finally decided to make my own making a basic top & then learn from there of what I need or dont need in a table. I spent $100 on building mine & only took me a half a day. I did end up putting the Triton 3.25 under it & sadly have only got to use it one time so far to finish the tables fence. The saving went to buy some bit sets as I am fixing to build a bookcase with a cabinet below.


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## Harvey Dunn (Oct 18, 2013)

I wonder about the under-table dust collection on those RT tables. I see that there is a port, but it looks like the space is just a large rectangle. Maybe that works for a dust collector...but I worry that it is too large a volume if you want to use a shop vac. But perhaps you could add a downdraft box.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Rob.


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## Roodog (Apr 10, 2013)

*opinion on question*



Treborenal said:


> I'm news to the forum and to routing as well. I want a routing table and have a limited budget of about $500 for the table and I will probably grab a Triton router to permanently mount under the table.
> 
> I have pretty much narrowed it down between the RT1000 series of tables built in Nova Scotia or the Craftsman Premium Die Cast Aluminum Router Table. I am needing some inputs from anyone that has experiences (goo , bad or indifferent) with any of these.
> 
> ...



He Rob...I have had a Triton Router Table for quite a few years now, and I've found it to be superb. Great for both beginner, craftsman or tradesman, as it is light, compact, and easy on the wallet. 
Can't go past it, in my opinion. Good luck. Andrew.


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## Treborenal (Feb 8, 2014)

I watched the video online and it looked pretty good; however, that was with a DC system no doubt.. I've heard (ok...read) that the dust collection is very good actually.

Rob


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## fire65 (Oct 29, 2008)

I am always amazed at the so called wood workers that BUY a router table. Am I missing something here. WHY not build it?


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## Roodog (Apr 10, 2013)

Hi again, Rob...the dust collection system on the Triton table is really, really good. There is the bag under the table and the vacuum port on the top, which is also clear and a good cover for the blade. The combination gives as close to 100% collection as you can get. Before I got that, I had the dust respirator that Triton produced too. Hey, when cutting MDF or even chipboard, you need the protection. It's not the dust that'll get you, it's the glue that is microscopic and highly toxic which is the problem. Even a normal P2 mask will suffice in a pinch, but a full mask is better. Can't be too safe.
Andrew.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Andrew, in the US Triton does not even have the hose available let alone the separator bucket. The Bosch VAC024 adapter or VAC005 hose both fit the TRA001.


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## bcfunburst (Jan 14, 2012)

Since you are in Canada, NS, you might try looking for USED RT. I got a complete table system on Craigs List; A Veritas System from Lee Valley Tools, for $500.00. The TRA001 Triton is perfect for this system, and much cheaper now than 8 yrs ago.. I don't like an aluminum table top because I've had gray metal smudge on the wood, from the table top. Veritas has a steel top that takes any weight of Router and remains true, and no smudge. Happy Routering!!


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## Treborenal (Feb 8, 2014)

*Uh, I already stated why.*



fire65 said:


> I am always amazed at the so called wood workers that BUY a router table. Am I missing something here. WHY not build it?


As I stated in my post beginning this thread that I don't have the time nor inclination to undertake this task right now. Also, please note that I have yet to profess myself a 'woodworker' which technically, anyone who cuts a piece of wood and fastens it together in some fashion would be one who works with wood or a woodworker. 

Do you have a table saw fire65? Did you buy the table or build it? You can build a table and attach all the necessary components to 'build' a table for the saw components? I've seen stories in woodworking magazines where it's been done. If you did, then that's totally awesome and deserving of mad props; however, if not...just sayin.

I am NEW to woodworking and do not believe at this moment to have all of the necessary skills to build a table that I would be able to use reliably. 

Thank you for giving me an opportunity to explain MY decision and to get closer to the requisite 10 posts necessary for being able to post links, et al.

Rob


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## Treborenal (Feb 8, 2014)

Thanks Reg. I have been checking CL and other places, but haven't found any that are what I would consider worth it. I'm still looking and trying to find articles and reviews to ensure I get what I need and not a hyped up piece of something that won't serve me. I am in no hurry at all so want to take my time. I might try to build a base anyway to work on my skills, since that's what woodworkers do...  What's a couple hundred $$ but kindling for the firepit in the summer.

Rob


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

I have to agree with Reg on the smudge marks from aluminum tables. I had one, and can attest to it. Having said that, older Craftsman tables are pretty plentiful, and can be had cheap. Unfortunately, you are pretty much limited to older Craftsman routers due to the design of the table. If you keep them clean, and put a coating of paste floor wax (Johnson's is my choice, but there are others) occasionally, you can reduce the smudges. They are a good, economical, starting point, but you will quickly outgrow it.


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## Treborenal (Feb 8, 2014)

I do have an older Craftsman bench top with a deWalt router in it. i loaned it to a friend and he said it was not very good and he didn't have much success with it. Now, it could have been him and/or his skills (or lack of) but I've not used it as I've not had a desire to do so. My belief is that if you learn to do something with inferior equipment, you might learn some things about fixing your mistakes but the issue of having bad equipment can lead to frustrations and a less than willing attitude moving forward. I don't want to be in that group.

I also read today in the December/January issue of Wood magazine, where they reviewed larger hp routers that a Milwaukee model 5625-20 was their choice for a table only router. The Triton was okay but the article mentioned that its 3 5/32" base opening limits the use of larger bits. Can someone explain this to me. Remember, I am a beginner router type and obviously not a woodworker since I'm not building my own table. 

Thanks 

Rob


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Can you post some pics of your Craftsman table? A router table is really a pretty simple device... if the router is mounted properly, and you have a decent fence that is 90degrees to the table, that is really all you need. 

Some members here use a piece of 3/4" plywood and mount the router to that... clamp it to a pair of saw horses and an edge jointed piece of 2x4 for a fence. Fancy is great, but it's not necessary for most operations. 

As for the magazine articles, I wouldn't pay too much attention to them just yet. As a beginner, those are more router than you need, and way more money than the average beginner wants to invest in a hobby right away. The bigger routers, the 2.5hp and up ones, are wonderful machines, but expensive, compared to the 2hp ones. I have used the Milwaukee and it is very impressive. If you are going to be making raised panel doors, where you need a bit that is 3" or larger in diameter, those are the ones. The opening in the Triton was only 3 5/32", too small for a 3 1/2" panel raising bit... that was why they mentioned the opening size. 

The average beginner will be putting a decorative edge on a board, or making box joints, or using a pattern bit to make several boards identical to each other. The smaller (much cheaper) routers will do all that and more.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

The people at Wood Magazine may not of known how to use the 3-1/2" diameter panel raising bits in the Triton router but we will be happy to teach them.


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## Harvey Dunn (Oct 18, 2013)

fire65 said:


> I am always amazed at the so called wood workers that BUY a router table. Am I missing something here. WHY not build it?


I find this rude.

Someone might be just starting out and not have the skills.

Someone might know that they have no interest in working with sheet goods in the future and therefore correctly calculate that the acquisition of a pocket hole jig, a brad nailer, a laminate trimmer, the cement for the top lamination, etc. etc. is not worth it.

Someone might just think that building cabinets out of plywood simply isn't very interesting.

That doesn't make them a "so called woodworker".

It makes them a person who has a different set of skills, priorities, and interests.


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## Shortslvs (Jan 13, 2013)

Yeah I was little bothered by that as well. I didnt build mine because I wanted to build something else and, as it turns out, some friendly US manufacturer made the things.

Don't tell anyone but I got some shelves and a tool cabinet that I bought as well.

Some peoples hobbie is building their shop - nothing wrong with it. I get tempted with it all the time and then the kids need braces and I end building something I can sell and just buying router bit holder.


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## Roodog (Apr 10, 2013)

He rob...like I said, I have the dust collection system also. The cloth collection 'bag' underneath, with the vac port above the riving knife works very well, and gets as close to 100% collection as you can possibly get. I still use a mask just in case, though. MDF and even chipboard are just not good for you.


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## AnvilJack (May 4, 2014)

This "Why not build it yourself?" reply was a bit terse, but it is a question that we should always ask ourselves when sizing up a proposed purchase.

First, take every opportunity to build stuff, I think: then in time you can build "anything". The process of working out how something like a router table "works" is itself hugely instructive, especially for a beginner.

When you are "flying along" in a skill set (like woodwork), many people long for ideas on what to make. Ideas in the fabricating world are valuable things.

Also, the original poster needs experience in using a router table, and choosing between fairly decent commercial products seems to be a bit of a theoretical process until one has some fundamental experience and skills. The ensuing discussion seems more like a process for a second table.

From an idea, we quickly learn to sketch, measure (dimension), sketch, measure,(check everything), order stuff and build. We should value this process: plans are not always at hand.

And "cost"!!! I think router tables for most of us could be built for 30% of the same commercial product.

Now, I respect the decision to buy a table, and I hope I am not being rude. But, for what it is worth, I also think we should think about building "one" as well as buying "one".

Anyway, good luck with you decision, and with your routing.


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## Shortslvs (Jan 13, 2013)

I don't disagree with building your own shop stuff. Router tables, work benches, work stations, miter fences...... All of this is valuable and I personally have build some of these things and imagine I will in the future.

But saying someone is "not a woodworker" or implying it because they chose to buy, is just rude.

But I also understand that this medium (forums, emails, texts) can often be difficult ways to communicate and same room conversations would likely be much nicer, so I probably should cut a little more slack when I think someone is being rude. Maybe they aren't. I might just be too sensitive, though I have seldom been accused of being sensitive in any good way. haha


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## rickjb (Nov 26, 2010)

My table is the cast iron Bench Dog ProMax RT sitting on a Rockler stand with an Incra/Jessem Router lift. Then.....I got (long story, will tell in another post) an Incra Jig Ultra (the predecessor to the LS Positioner) and realize that the table will not work well with this tool because there is not enough clear area behind the router to place the jig.

So, my suggestion is this - if you are wanting a store bought model, you'll have to decide if you'll be using a jig similar to the LS Positioner or not. If yes, then you'll need an offset table (Incra sells them - or look on ebay or Craigs List for an older Woodpecker unit). These, from what I have found, are either phenolic or MDF - no cast iron.

If, on the other hand, you will NOT be using a jig like the LS Positioner, but instead a simple or complex fence that simply connects to the table, then I highly recommend the Bench Dog ProMax RT. It is FLAT FLAT FLAT and will not sag over time, even if you install a 400 HP (kidding) router. I'm not yet allowed to send pictures, but when I get there, I'll insert a picture or two of the rig I set up.

The above is just my 2 cents worth. Good luck.


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## Roodog (Apr 10, 2013)

Yes, Rob. it is very, very good. As close to 100% extraction as you can get. Can't go past it. Set it right the first time, do a test cut, adjust if necessary and keep cutting. Check every once in a while just to be safe, but I've found that the RT is exceptionally accurate.
Inexpensive table, too.
Good luck.


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