# A better way to store clamps



## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Guys I improvised and it drove me crazy as I had to clamp the clamps to the wood for storage . It was kind of a hassle getting them in and out so I'm trying to build something a little better . 
This is what I was doing to get by 


So for the new attempt I dadoed out a slot in a piece of wood to hold a 1/2" piece of mdf in tightly . Got this idea from you guys when I seen this done to make consistent box joints 



So I secured the wood to my GI miter gauge at 2-1/2" as that seemed like a fairly good space to provide room for enough for each clamp to sit by each other .



I increased the size of the dado stack by a few thousands so that I could lift the 2/6 off and on easily as I dadaod each slot . This is the coolest idea I've seen for consistency 




So here it's held up temporarily to see if it will be a viable idea 



I'm thinking about maybe attaching a 2/4 vertically to the back of this 2/6 to secure it to the wall .
The slots are 1/2" wide and I'm almost thinking I should have gone a little thinner ,but the clamps appear to sit in there so so .
I'm going to cut this one and instead of going behind the drill press I'll build two seperate ones around it .
Anyone have any thoughts to improve upon a clamp storage rack as I don't really know of any other way to go about this ?


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## JFPNCM (Dec 13, 2009)

Looks good but will they fit after you insulate? Not an excuse but the way.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

JFPNCM said:


> Looks good but will they fit after you insulate? Not an excuse but the way.


Yes no issues there


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Rick , just out of curiosity would you try turning the clamps around 180* and then see if the clamp (both jaws) will sit on top of that board without falling off? I clamp my small ones to a 1 x mounted under my bench like you are doing, minus the grooves, but unclamping them and then reclamping them back onto the board is becoming a PITA. If they will sit in a groove like that it would save a lot of time. Or maybe the answer is to mortice a bunch of rectangular holes in a board like that and then I could just slide them into the holes. Thanks, you got me thinking.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Charles I turned them around and they didn't sit as well , kinda sat there precariously .
I'm thinking about making the slots a little tighter . It's no real hardship to start over as this is kind of a test.

I was going to start on my work bench drawers but accessing the clamps is really getting on my nerves so I want to address this first before I proceed . 
Should be a fairly simple project I hope .


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## tomp913 (Mar 7, 2014)

Here's an article showing several different racks to make, depending on what you're trying to store. I have many more as it seems that the various magazines are always running articles on clamp storage.

I have the problem of not having enough wall space to hang the racks, and bought this Pack Rack® Clamp & Tool Storage System - Rockler Woodworking Tools which is kind of a compromise. The thought was that the rack could be rolled to where I was working so that the clamps would be at hand but my "assembly area" usually winds up where the motorbike lives and the rack is on the opposite corner of the shop and not easily rolled over sometimes. One of the drawbacks to the design is that some of the clamps fall off easily, particularly pipe clamps - Rockler now makes sheet metal racks for specific types of clamps that bolt to the frame to address this, I may have to look into them at some point.


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## chessnut2 (Sep 15, 2011)

Nice going, Rick. Nicely photographed, and nicely documented. I've gotta do that.


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

My struggle with clamp storage left me with several boxes that suit the different sizes. The boxes keep the clamps stored upright so not a lot of wall or floor space is taken. They sit in a corner until I need them. My short ones (6", 12") are in small canvas tool bags...they pile on each other easy enough. Also lets me be portable...

Nice job, Rick...I think if I had the wall space I would copy your design...like it...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Rick , just out of curiosity would you try turning the clamps around 180* and then see if the clamp (both jaws) will sit on top of that board without falling off? I clamp my small ones to a 1 x mounted under my bench like you are doing, minus the grooves, but unclamping them and then reclamping them back onto the board is becoming a PITA. If they will sit in a groove like that it would save a lot of time. Or maybe the answer is to mortice a bunch of rectangular holes in a board like that and then I could just slide them into the holes. Thanks, you got me thinking.


Charles your idea would work for me with the Bessey clamps but I can't turn the Irwins around as there handles get in the way . I'm going to dado on less deep and a little narrower and call it a day . I think it will be much better than what I was doing


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Charles,
Ross aka as Old55 showed me an interesting pic and there's a ridge at the front so they don't slide off . That would be easy enough to dado in and would work great for the Irwins . And maybe if I try your idea the Besseys would work to . Gotta hit the shop and see 

The more I think about it I suspect it's not going to work with the Besseys as I can't go any deeper with my dado slot , and they would need to be pushed back further to fall into place , but I think I'll dedicate one rack for the Irwins and one for the big K clamps


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I also seen clamps hung upside down, not sure if I'm liking that idea ?


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

tomp913 said:


> Here's an article showing several different racks to make, depending on what you're trying to store. I have many more as it seems that the various magazines are always running articles on clamp storage.
> 
> I have the problem of not having enough wall space to hang the racks, and bought this Pack Rack® Clamp & Tool Storage System - Rockler Woodworking Tools which is kind of a compromise. The thought was that the rack could be rolled to where I was working so that the clamps would be at hand but my "assembly area" usually winds up where the motorbike lives and the rack is on the opposite corner of the shop and not easily rolled over sometimes. One of the drawbacks to the design is that some of the clamps fall off easily, particularly pipe clamps - Rockler now makes sheet metal racks for specific types of clamps that bolt to the frame to address this, I may have to look into them at some point.



Or this...

This is what I am using right now...utilizing French Cleats. I can hang everything from my 50" Bessy Revos and 3/4" pipe clamps down to my 4" "F" clamps. By utilizing the French Cleats I can configure the individual section of rack in any orientation to fit the clamps.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

schnewj said:


> Or this...
> 
> This is what I am using right now...utilizing French Cleats. I can hang everything from my 50" Bessy Revos and 3/4" pipe clamps down to my 4" "F" clamps. By utilizing the French Cleats I can configure the individual section of rack in any orientation to fit the clamps.


Well I see that I better make some larger slots for pipe clamps . I never thought of plywood, it looks nicer than what I'm going to do but I think I'm going to try my idea first as I don't want to loose any room from supports underneith .


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Well I see that I better make some larger slots for pipe clamps . I never thought of plywood, it looks nicer than what I'm going to do but I think I'm going to try my idea first as I don't want to loose any room from supports underneith .


Think it through, Rick! How are you going to attach the racks? If you fasten them right to the studs, their permanent. If you use a french cleat they are easily moved and reconfigured.

You are not loosing that much from the supports underneath. The design I sent allows for easy attachment of the cleats.

I'll take a couple of photos of my set-up and post them so you can get a better visual.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

schnewj said:


> Think it through, Rick! How are you going to attach the racks? If you fasten them right to the studs, their permanent. If you use a french cleat they are easily moved and reconfigured.
> 
> You are not loosing that much from the supports underneath. The design I sent allows for easy attachment of the cleats.
> 
> I'll take a couple of photos of my set-up and post them so you can get a better visual.


Well in heading to HD so I better make up my mind on material . Tough call :|


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Here are some photos so that you can get and idea...

Every bit of the racks came from scrap pieces.


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

All of those rack ideas look really nice. The problem is...wall space. That is what I don't have. I think I need to have a house cleaning...again! :surprise::grin:


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## Ray Newman (Mar 9, 2009)

If you need mobility or are considering mobility, see the New Yankee Work Shop mobile clamp cart -- 

New Yankee Workshop - Featuring the Craftsmanship of Master Carpenter Norm Abram

Built one 'bout 10 years and it works well. Believe it took about 1 - 1 1/2 sheets of 3/4 plyw'd. Just don't go Route L. Cheapo on the casters. The weight quickly adds up.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

@bill , nice work 

@Ray , mobility would be a cool idea and if I had a bigger garage I'd consider that for sure . Just makes sense 

@Charles . Good call on the K clamps . It makes way more sense to have the handles towards the user . 


I am dadoed as deep as I can go and if I had to there is enough room to dadoe the rest of the wood down creating a 1/4" ridge in the front top to stop them from falling off.

Instead of dadoing the board I could easily glue and Brad nail little squares on the end to create a stop . 


But that will create problems with other styles of clamps , so I'm going to just go like this and cut the back of the board at a 5 degree angle so that there less inclined to fall off , plus I'm going to narrow the gaps so they sit in a little better , not so that they sit tight , but closer tolerances with less wiggle room


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## gjackson52 (Jul 4, 2015)

What do you guys think about Norm Abram's rolling clamp cart ? Looks pretty easy to make and seems to hold a fair amount of clamps.


Gary


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

schnewj said:


> Here are some photos so that you can get and idea...
> 
> Every bit of the racks came from scrap pieces.


That's pretty much the picture I had in my mind.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Wall space? Is there really such a thing? My clamp storage solution is far from perfect but it cost me nothing and is out of the way. Of course this wouldn't work for Harry or James... :jester: Brian and I have no problem reaching them.


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## DesertRatTom (Jul 3, 2012)

I have one wall of my 12x24 shed finished in pegboard. My clamps are all hung on pegboard hardware. The picture shows how the double prong hardware allows me to store my heavy parallel clamps in a very compact way. The pegboard allows me to cluster all my hanging tools and accessories so they are close at hand. The F clamps are hung on single pin hardware. The pegboard is directly on top of the insulation. But there is also a liner of bubble type mylar reflective insulation, which helps reflect the solar heat out, so the insulation is sufficient.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

gjackson52 said:


> What do you guys think about Norm Abram's rolling clamp cart ? Looks pretty easy to make and seems to hold a fair amount of clamps.
> 
> 
> Gary


If you have the room, great! Makes it easier to take the clamps right to the project. However, although wall space is always at a premium not all of us have the luxury of excess floor space. 

It is whatever works for your individual circumstances.

What I showed in the pictures to Rick is just a portion of my clamps. These are the ones that I use the most for the projects I have been doing. I could damn near fill half of the garage side wall if I put all of the clamps out on the wall. You NEVER have enough clamps, or at least the size or configuration that you need. 

I have Revos, pipe, "C", wood, spring, band, corner, bar...you get the idea. I have to pick and choose as all I have is a small corner of a garage to store my "shop". I have to pull things out as I need them and that means I have to plan a project instead of flying blind.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

But that will create problems with other styles of clamps , so I'm going to just go like this and cut the back of the board at a 5 degree angle so that there less inclined to fall off , plus I'm going to narrow the gaps so they sit in a little better , not so that they sit tight , but closer tolerances with less wiggle room 
[/QUOTE]

Rick,

Open up the Revo's and just set the fixed jaw on the shelf. You have a lot more surface area, that, is flat. Look at how my "F" style clamps are in the slots. The movable jaw will stay put if you open it up on the Bessy's.


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## Ratbob (Apr 6, 2015)

Rick, if you haven't done so yet, you should look through some of the picks on this link. Loads of different ideas that might be useful.
~Jeff


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Similar to this:

If you use the flat side of the fixed jaw it will sit level and will not move. No cutting the slots narrower to keep them from moving around and making it harder to get them in and out of the rack.


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## mbar57 (Apr 20, 2015)

Nice!! Thanks gentlemen.


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## Ghidrah (Oct 21, 2008)

I leave the jaw at the end of the bar, they slide off and on the rack easy when I want them and to date haven't dropped off when bumped. And they do get bumped by the BS and RT vac. The 4's do get banged around a lot


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Tom; _great idea staggering the jaw hts!_ I'm going to review what I've done...maybe I can recover some wall real estate(?).


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

@bill ,
I'm liking your plywood idea as it does look a little more refined . I don't have a lot of scrap unfortunately so it's going to cost about 10 times more to buy plywood as opposed to a few 2/6's . Tough call


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Thank you for all your posts guys , much appreciated


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

schnewj said:


> But that will create problems with other styles of clamps , so I'm going to just go like this and cut the back of the board at a 5 degree angle so that there less inclined to fall off , plus I'm going to narrow the gaps so they sit in a little better , not so that they sit tight , but closer tolerances with less wiggle room


Rick,

Open up the Revo's and just set the fixed jaw on the shelf. You have a lot more surface area, that, is flat. Look at how my "F" style clamps are in the slots. The movable jaw will stay put if you open it up on the Bessy's.[/QUOTE]

Ya I'm with you on that one Bill. It was just nice grabbing them from there handle is all


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

another entry...

.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Your definitely well organized Stick


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Your definitely well organized Stick


That's not organization, that's experience!


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> That's not organization, that's experience!


glad there are no pictures of the waste, failures, not good enoughs and half bakes...


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

Rick, I think the problem with your initial concept was trying to make one type of clasmp rack fit all clamps. Each type of clamp head needs different rack specifications. The bessey flat heads only need a flat topped rack, whereas the quick clampsrequire a raised area at the front of the slots as the pads are lower than the part that is on the bar.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

vindaloo said:


> Rick, I think the problem with your initial concept was trying to make one type of clasmp rack fit all clamps. Each type of clamp head needs different rack specifications. The bessey flat heads only need a flat topped rack, whereas the quick clampsrequire a raised area at the front of the slots as the pads are lower than the part that is on the bar.


I think your right .

I watched a video and the used a 2 layers of 3/4" plywood glued together and drilled holes side by side with a forstner bit , and then had a normal table saw blade at a higher height that you can achieve with a dado stack and cut out the sides to meet with the sides of the hole . This gave them a deeper groove to work with which I like . 

For pipe clamps they used a larger diameter forstner bit and did the same on the TS .
I think I'm going to follow this process . Don't know how to get perfect consistency like I did with my wooden peg on my miter gauge , but in the videos they just eye balled it


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

RainMan1 said:


> Rick,
> 
> Open up the Revo's and just set the fixed jaw on the shelf. You have a lot more surface area, that, is flat. Look at how my "F" style clamps are in the slots. The movable jaw will stay put if you open it up on the Bessy's.


Ya I'm with you on that one Bill. It was just nice grabbing them from there handle is all[/QUOTE]

That`s what I had in mind Rick. Ive been tightening them onto a shelf but you have to clamp and unclamp them to use them and if they are facing inward the handles are hard to get at when they get spaced close together. `Having like that eliminates the clamping and unclamping and makes them a lot quicker to store or use.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Cherryville Chuck said:


> Ya I'm with you on that one Bill. It was just nice grabbing them from there handle is all


That`s what I had in mind Rick. Ive been tightening them onto a shelf but you have to clamp and unclamp them to use them and if they are facing inward the handles are hard to get at when they get spaced close together. `Having like that eliminates the clamping and unclamping and makes them a lot quicker to store or use.[/QUOTE]

Exactly my problem to .
I experimented and tried facing the handles towards the wall only to have the lower clamp section free fall and annoy me . 
I'm going to go a little deeper on my next one and hang them with the handles out like you suggested . Maybe put a 3 degree angle on the rack for added security


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Keep us posted. I need to change my storage system.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Just try to remember that wall space begins to come at a premium as you gather more tools. 

Having everything scattered over the walls is convenient but there will come a time when you will run out of room for such things.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> Just try to remember that wall space begins to come at a premium as you gather more tools.
> 
> Having everything scattered over the walls is convenient but there will come a time when you will run out of room for such things.


Yes I'm starting to get concerned about that myself


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

timbertailor said:


> Just try to remember that wall space begins to come at a premium as you gather more tools.
> 
> Having everything scattered over the walls is convenient but there will come a time when you will run out of room for such things.


Then you have to get creative. :grin:


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

MT Stringer said:


> Then you have to get creative. :grin:


It really tickles me when I see some internet bloggers with this nice neat rack full of Bessy Revos hanging on the wall behind them. All arranged by size and looking real pretty. 

The reality is this...'they ain't the only clamps this guy has or uses!' So, if they're not hanging on the wall where are they? The answer, in boxes, drawers, shelves and cupboards. 

Like Mike says, you have to be creative.

I keep a lot of mine in flip top plastic bins, like they use to ship stock to stores. I'm sure that you all have seen them. I bought them used at a local flea market by the dozen. They are much more durable then cardboard boxes and are designed to stack neatly on top of each other.

I label the end with the contents. All I have to do is look and find the clamps that I need for a particular job, use them and put them back when I'm done.

I only keep out what I normally use on the racks. Wall space is always at a premium, so you have to choose your battles.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

'...and are designed to stack neatly on top of each other."
Heh...and the one you need is on the bottom. Every time.
Not laughing _at_ you Bill; I use the same bins and finding _anything_ is better than going to the gym.
I like the clear ones. The thing you need is there looking back at you, on the bottom, in the one you can't get at.


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> '...and are designed to stack neatly on top of each other."
> Heh...and the one you need is on the bottom. Every time.
> Not laughing _at_ you Bill; I use the same bins and finding _anything_ is better than going to the gym.
> I like the clear ones. The thing you need is there looking back at you, on the bottom, in the one you can't get at.


Have you been spying on me?


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

schnewj said:


> Have you been spying on me?


yes...
amusement where ever we can find it...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> yes...
> amusement where ever we can find it...


That I can provide...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

I do not understand what is so difficult here...

take a 2x2 (4 or 5/4 hardwood is a plus) and cut a shallow narrow dado up center on the face of it length wise... 
make at leas three of these...
then dentil kerf the edge to accept the bars of the clamps the depth to the inside edge of the dado....
space the kerfs OC the thickness of the bodies plus an eighth...
mount this to a thin rip (say 2½-3'' wide) of ply to be used as a flange to mount into place...
it also helps carry the weight of the clamps..

mount one rack to the wall way up high...
temporarily mount the other two below the 1st...
hang several of your longest clamps in the rack *UPSIDE DOWN* so the cross pin in the end of the bar drops into the dado of the top one and all the kerfs of the three line up...
drop the bottom rack to the heads of the clamps... close but not on top of them, leave some play room....
set your short clamps or more long ones so they set in between the clamps already hanging and the heads are either above or below the heads of the clamps already there...
set/adjust the last dentil to hold/hang the new additional clamps...
you may see the need for an additional dentils...

you saw how I did 100% wall space in adjustable shelves...
covered the shelves w/ sliding doors to deep out the dirt/dust/sawdust...
added sliders to gain back at least 50% of my wall space...

VOE hard at work here...


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

*Another Cat, Sans the Fur*

I used miniature corbels to support the racks.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

@Kelly , wow you've got a nice setup there . Not sure what a corbel is though ?


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

A corbel is a posh name (correct name)for a 90 degree shelf bracket 

https://www.bing.com/search?q=corbel&pc=MOZI&form=MOZCON


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

Thanks Rainman.  I neglected to mention, these are all just 2x studs. Generally, 2x4's, but, where needed, a 2x6. I used my scroll saw and a drill and bit to get where I wanted. 

One or two are corbels with a bar inserted, which works well for the miniature spring clamps. At the top, you can see I just installed a few dowels for the larger (HF) spring clamps.

The wall gets modified from time to time. For example, the strap clamps may get rare earth magnets for their corner pieces and wrench. 


The gun is in case someone puts a coffee or Coke on the table saw.


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Dejure said:


> The gun is in case someone puts a coffee or Coke on the table saw.


Smart move.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Beer's OK though... 

Oh...my...Lord; it's Clamp City. *bogglement*


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Beer's OK though...
> 
> Oh...my...Lord; it's Clamp City. *bogglement*


Hmmm! I see a business opportunity! "Clamps R Us". Anything and everything you ever need to clamp while doing woodworking. Bessey's, Jacobson's..."F" clamps, "C" clamps, spring clamps, band clamps, ...

Rick would be my best customer!

Package deals of dozens of clamps at one time...it would include everything that you need, except the most necessary sizes you need. That would insure repeat business.

Free shipping on $100,000 or more...:no:>:no:>:no:>


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

schnewj said:


> Hmmm! I see a business opportunity! "Clamps R Us". Anything and everything you ever need to clamp while doing woodworking. Bessey's, Jacobson's..."F" clamps, "C" clamps, spring clamps, band clamps, ...
> 
> Rick would be my best customer!
> 
> ...


I'm in Bill , but your going to sell custom clamp holders to right ?


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> I'm in Bill , but your going to sell custom clamp holders to right ?


Absolutely!


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## Gaffboat (Mar 11, 2012)

I think it's one of Parkinson's Laws: The number of clamps logarithmically expands beyond the storage space available.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

I'm liking this . May as well incorporate some storage as you build it ? 



Even having a top makes it look more refined and you can store things on top . May just do this 



This design would give you more room to get more in a given space as long as you stacked the same size in front of each other . 
I'm not going this route but found it interesting


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

If only I had some wall sapce available. :frown:


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Some of my clamps sit on shelves like my wood clamps. Some are in drawers, and my larger clamps I have incorporated onto my DC cart. Like Stick says, space is at a premium. You have to find ways to make the best use of it as you gather more tools over the years.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Wow you've got a lot of stuff Tim . This move of yours is going to be a work out :|


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok so was on the other side of my drill press testing to see how the Irwin clamps would work in my rack , and as I tilted it a Bessey K clamp touched the pony wall and fell down breaking the upper and lower plastic on the upper jaw . 
Here's hoping they make replacement parts . Sucks when something's broken and haven't even used the dam thing yet


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Duck tape is your friend!


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Ok so was on the other side of my drill press testing to see how the Irwin clamps would work in my rack , and as I tilted it a Bessey K clamp touched the pony wall and fell down breaking the upper and lower plastic on the upper jaw .
> Here's hoping they make replacement parts . Sucks when something's broken and haven't even used the dam thing yet


They do, but you might be surprised at the price. They are more then you think they should be. Shop around. I believe I found two packs for a reasonable price, but the shipping was outrageous.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

schnewj said:


> They do, but you might be surprised at the price. They are more then you think they should be. Shop around. I believe I found two packs for a reasonable price, but the shipping was outrageous.


Ya I seen sone for 12 bucks a pop . At the Bessey site I see a 12 pack but no price . 
Nothing at LV


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Ok so was on the other side of my drill press testing to see how the Irwin clamps would work in my rack , and as I tilted it a Bessey K clamp touched the pony wall and fell down breaking the upper and lower plastic on the upper jaw .
> Here's hoping they make replacement parts . Sucks when something's broken and haven't even used the dam thing yet


Notice the bars across the bottoms of the clamps to prevent them from getting knocked off in the photo above. I just made a wooden hook that swivels out of the way and releases the bar.

The T square also serves the same function.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> Notice the bars across the bottoms of the clamps to prevent them from getting knocked off in the photo above. I just made a wooden hook that swivels out of the way and releases the bar.
> 
> The T square also serves the same function.


I noticed that but wasn't sure how it worked . My incident was a freak thing because I was on the other end tilting it and as they swayed at the bottom the 31's caught the edge of the concrete pony wall and it kicked it off . 
I ordered a half dozen replacement jaws on Amazon.com , because as usual there's absolutely next to nothing on there Canadian site . Lots of books though :|


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Guys I have 8 Bessey K clamps 4-31"and 4-50" . Was thinking about adding 4-24" or is that a waste seeing as I have numerous Irwin clamps for that? I'm going with pipe clamps on anything larger than 50" .

I'm going to build a dedicated rack for the Bessey K clamps so I better decide how many it's going to accommodate


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Guys I have 8 Bessey K clamps 4-31"and 4-50" . Was thinking about adding 4-24" or is that a waste seeing as I have numerous Irwin clamps for that? I'm going with pipe clamps on anything larger than 50" .
> 
> I'm going to build a dedicated rack for the Bessey K clamps so I better decide how many it's going to accommodate


It would foolish for someone to tell you that you can never have enough clamps but if you have the longer lengths, you can usually get them to work for you on smaller projects.

I would diversify first before buying shorter clamps that I already have.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Tim I was thinking the same thing , maybe buy the next longer length . I think go with the 60"


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok looks like I'll pick up 4 at LV . There $76 each if you buy them in fours . 
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=60315&cat=1,43838,43844



Much better than going threw Amazon.ca . There $209 plus $80 shipping a piece :fie:
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00...ey clamps&qid=1439066092&ref_=sr_1_30&sr=8-30


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

RainMan1 said:


> Ok looks like I'll pick up 4 at LV . There $76 each if you buy them in fours .
> Bessey K-Body REVO™ Clamps - Lee Valley Tools
> 
> 
> ...


Rick,

Do you really have a use of this type of clamp (Bessey Revos) this long? I have rarely needed anything over 50". If I need something longer I go to the pipe clamps. I keep the pipe clamps to 48-60". If I need longer I use a coupler and a short section of 2' pipe.

Pipe clamps are much cheaper and you can buy a crap load of pipe and clamps for $200.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

schnewj said:


> Rick,
> 
> Do you really have a use of this type of clamp (Bessey Revos) this long? I have rarely needed anything over 50". If I need something longer I go to the pipe clamps. I keep the pipe clamps to 48-60". If I need longer I use a coupler and a short section of 2' pipe.
> 
> Pipe clamps are much cheaper and you can buy a crap load of pipe and clamps for $200.


Bill tell you truth if I buy longer ones it's going to raise my clamp rack up to a bad height . I'm going to leave 4 extra spaces in my dedicated K clamp rack and fill it with 24's someday maybe .
You guys did post earlier that you use pipe clamps past 50" , so that's why I never went any bigger


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

24" is an awkward length. Good for stuff up to about 16" or less. For cabinet assembly you need at least 30" or even 36". Not saying don't buy 24" clamps but as Bill explained, at some point you need to switch to pipe or similar in longer lengths. Either have the pipe cut and threaded and just swap the Pony clamp ends, or rig them all.
($80/ea for a clamp is insane. It's just a clamp. In Earth terms that's two bales of insulation.)


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

sorry to hear this...
go apple ply...


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

The BB is easier to find! Windsor Plywood may carry it in Canada.
Here's a 'conversation' from 2013...
https://forum.canadianwoodworking.com/showthread.php?49824-Baltic-Birch-Plywood


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

the real deal BB isn't made made in any other place but in the northeastern region of Europe around the Baltic Sea...
*if somebody tries to tell you differently, tell them you know better .....*
they may not know the difference between BB and run of the mill everyday Birch plywood or they have a knock off/counterfeit BB being passed off as the real deal BB...

Baltic birch plywood is unique because of it’s all-birch veneer core that’s cross-banded and laminated with exterior grade glue, making for a superior stable sheet. It also has a thicker face veneer than traditional cabinet grade plywood.
To start, Baltic birch is a plywood product native to the northeastern region of Europe around the Baltic Sea. It’s manufactured primarily for European cabinetmaking. This begins to explain the product’s odd sheet size of 5′x5′ (more about this at bottom).
But here is the more important part. *Baltic birch’s core is unlike traditional plywood you may be used to seeing: the layers of inner plies are 1.5 mm-thick solid birch veneer*, cross-banded, and laminated with exterior grade adhesive. It’s a recipe that results in a void-free core with a number of advantages and why the material is fantastic for thousands of projects in woodworking.

gotta know your stuff.. it's buyer beware because of so much economic fraud out there...


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

@DaninVan...

w/ your availabilities... are you sure you don't live in a third world country..


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok so I made a little progress today . These are the parts after the rabbet joints . I dadoed in a slot for the 1-1/2" thick middle section that takes the weight of the clamps . The ones I've seen were 3/4" thick to support the clamps but because these are so heavy I went twice as thick . Also adding 45 degree angled supports underneith .
I am going to use this rack for Bessey K clamps as I'm seeing that it may be better to have dedicated components as opposed to one size fits all . 




Test fit 



Area that needs to be removed 



Sides cut and test fit again 



So tommorow all I need to do is dado the slots in the centre section , glue and put French cleats on 
Oh , and cut 45 degree supports for under the centre section


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

*We Gots Snow 'n Polar Bears*



Stick486 said:


> @DaninVan...
> 
> w/ your availabilities... are you sure you don't live in a third world country..


Some stuff we have an overabundance of... 
-Politicians
-weed
-wheat
-rock
-Natural Gas
-dead trees
-did I mention Politicians?
-Lawyers
-a lot of water


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

DaninVan said:


> Some stuff we have an overabundance of...
> -Politicians
> -did I mention Politicians?
> -Lawyers


everybody has an over abundance of that kind of trash...


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Stick486 said:


> everybody has an over abundance of that kind of trash...


Anybody find it strange that a lot of times there is an overlap in the two professions? They must teach politics as a core curriculum course in law school.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Bill; not strange at all. Government is legislation. Creating Law...less often, reducing the piles of steaming BS previously created by _other_ Lawyer- Politicians.
Basically telling the peons how to live their lives.
What _is_ strange is how the Law profession has been taken over by the Progressives. I guess they see Law as the way to create the World to their way of thinking.


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## old coasty (Aug 15, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> I am going to use this rack for Bessey K clamps as I'm seeing that it may be better to have dedicated components as opposed to one size fits all .
> 
> So tommorow all I need to do is dado the slots in the centre section , glue and put French cleats on
> Oh , and cut 45 degree supports for under the centre section


That'll look good on the uninsulated stud walls.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

old coasty said:


> That'll look good on the uninsulated stud walls.


OMG over ! :lol:


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Wow you've got a lot of stuff Tim . This move of yours is going to be a work out :|


Took me a week to figure out you were talking to me Rick.:grin: I prefer Brad.

Yeah, between keeping the house sorted for showing, moving the dogs, and fixing things around the house, I do not even want to think about packing and moving all my tools in the garage.

I bought some WD40 Rust Inhibitor. Test results seem to imply it will keep things from rusting for some time.

I am going through wood work withdrawal. So, I have been following along with your projects and others. Not the same thing but it is hard to make mistakes this way!>


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> Took me a week to figure out you were talking to me Rick.:grin: I prefer Brad.
> 
> Yeah, between keeping the house sorted for showing, moving the dogs, and fixing things around the house, I do not even want to think about packing and moving all my tools in the garage.
> 
> ...


Sorry Brad , another one of my brain farts. I think I started drinking again that day lol


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Sorry Brad , another one of my brain farts. I think I started drinking again that day lol


No worries. Been called a lot worse.

Had another showing today. Keep your fingers crossed for me.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

timbertailor said:


> No worries. Been called a lot worse.
> 
> Had another showing today. Keep your fingers crossed for me.


There crossed , here's rooting for you


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

timbertailor said:


> No worries. Been called a lot worse.
> 
> Had another showing today. Keep your fingers crossed for me.


Let me know when you get ready to move your *tools*. I will come help. I must warn you I am a better stupidvisor than worker! :grin:


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

MT Stringer said:


> Let me know when you get ready to move your *tools*. I will come help. I must warn you I am a better stupidvisor than worker! :grin:


Thanks for offering Mike. I may take you up on it if for no other reason than to meet you. Supervisors are good. They keep the hired help from damaging things. I am hiring some local muscle for the day.

All the tools will all be going directly into a shipping container so that will make it much easier. Just got to treat and wrap all the tools in rust inhibitor and tie everything to the walls to keep them from falling over or skating around. Hope to have enough room to make a temporary shop out of it for the primary tools.

I am getting a second shipping container for the rest of the house.

Not sure what I will do with the containers after I move. May sell them or use them for temporary storage and a shop. Time will tell.


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## cel22262 (Dec 28, 2009)

Here's a couple of photos of the racks I use in my shop. Holds a bunch of pipe and bar clams with out using a lot of linear wall space - the racks hang on the wall using a French cleat.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I like the concept, Chris! You could park a truck on those... 
Welcome to the forum.


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## Chip Zaflying (Feb 9, 2012)

MT Stringer said:


> All of those rack ideas look really nice. The problem is...wall space. That is what I don't have. I think I need to have a house cleaning...again! :surprise::grin:


I'm in the process of moving into a new shop and I'll be using this type of rack, You can store a lot of clamps in a minimal amount of wall space.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Chip Zaflying said:


> I'm in the process of moving into a new shop and I'll be using this type of rack, You can store a lot of clamps in a minimal amount of wall space.


Larry I almost went that route . As long as the same lengths are in the same slot it should be fine and more compact than what I'm doing .

Btw welcome to the forum Larry


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

cel22262 said:


> Here's a couple of photos of the racks I use in my shop. Holds a bunch of pipe and bar clams with out using a lot of linear wall space - the racks hang on the wall using a French cleat.


Chris thats very heavy duty , thanks for posting . 

I just noticed this is your first post also , so Welcome to the forum


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## Dejure (Jul 27, 2009)

For several years, I used the technique of storing all my bar clamps side by side. I did this by drilling holes, then cutting into them with my jig saw. This was a quick and dirty way to build storage, since it only required a 2x and some quick cuts. However, as my clamp collection grows, I need to more efficiently store the over one hundred clamps I have to organize.

When I get a little time and have some extra materials, I am switching to the shelf bracket, or corbel, if you prefer. Using the latter storage means, I am able to store eight to ten clamps in the same area I used to store three. Of course, it does take more effort and requires more than just using 2x's to build shelf brackets.

The improved means of storage is akin to what Chip posted, below.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Chip?


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## Loring (Feb 17, 2014)

*K-clamp/Cab master storage*

I had some cabinet master Jorgies and some Bessey K-clamps that resented a storage challenge. My first attempt was a 1x2 that bowed mightily under the weight of these big clamps.
And I wanted high density to fit in between wall studs in my garage.

I used 2x4's and made two identical pieces. I got 16 Parallel jaw clamps in about 20 inches with minimal projection from the wall.
Used a couple of 2.5" x 1/4" lag screws for each one. 

Here's the results:


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

@Loring 
That looks pretty cool . My first attempt was with 2/4 , but I decided to go with 2 layers of 3/4 ply . How did you get the dadoed areas so deep . Drill first then table saw ?

That's a great use of space


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Chris.


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Larry.


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## bernieke (Jun 21, 2011)

For mine I used a longer base, with triangular supports in between the clamps.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

bernieke said:


> For mine I used a longer base, with triangular supports in between the clamps.


I don't know how you made the first one or if it's precut? Looks pretty wild whatever it is .
Welcome to the forum Bernard


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## WoodManiac (Feb 7, 2010)

I too have similar arrangement. Thinking of moving over a cart based affair soon.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

bernieke said:


> For mine I used a longer base, with triangular supports in between the clamps.



Those are not going anywhere! Well, if you did not have enough glue surface area before, you do now!!!


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## torema (Dec 4, 2014)

Now this is a valuable thread. I find I spend far more time finding tools, or arranging tools, or storing tools than I do making something! In summation, especially after looking at the image submitted by Tom from Wood Magazine, I think I need to use all of these ideas. I think you need to have clamp storage components for each type and brand of clamp. This thread has me on the way to the shop to rethink both where and how to store clamps.


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## WoodManiac (Feb 7, 2010)

Other Clamps are stored like this. They all are taking up valuable wall space. So thinking of a multi-layered clamp Caddy. All ideas are welcome.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

WoodManiac said:


> Other Clamps are stored like this. They all are taking up valuable wall space. So thinking of a multi-layered clamp Caddy. All ideas are welcome.


If they are not kept on a cart now, they will be someday! So, skip all the in between steps us old folk have already been through and build a cart.

1) It is much better use of space and you can fit a lot more clamps in the same amount of space.

2) They are just damn handy when you can roll them up to your project.

3) They always have a place that prevents them from getting knocked off\vibrate off the wall.

4) Think outside the box. My cart holds a BUNCH of various things. They all just fit well in the space provided.

5) Carts are easy to modify to provide more storage as your clamp collection grows. I built my solution so that i will never have to worry about clamp storage again.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Brad I don't have enough real estate for a cart , but I totally think a cart would be desirable in my dream shop


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

torema said:


> Now this is a valuable thread. I find I spend far more time finding tools, or arranging tools, or storing tools than I do making something! In summation, especially after looking at the image submitted by Tom from Wood Magazine, I think I need to use all of these ideas. I think you need to have clamp storage components for each type and brand of clamp. This thread has me on the way to the shop to rethink both where and how to store clamps.


I'm doing seperate components . My K clamps are going to be in one and I'm going to make a seperate rack for the smaller Besseys and Irwins which will be a little differant .
Then tackle the odd ball stuff at some point


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## Larkan (Apr 13, 2012)

Love it, Id love to see some pics of the cart idea or are there some already out there?


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

RainMan1 said:


> Brad I don't have enough real estate for a cart , but I totally think a cart would be desirable in my dream shop


My comments were for the general audience so please do not think I am riding you or something.


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Larkan said:


> Love it, Id love to see some pics of the cart idea or are there some already out there?


This link should be a good start. I posted mine in this thread already.

Clamp Cart


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## Snakebyte (Jan 23, 2013)

*Clamp Storage via table*

I just built a simple table (for finishing) out of an old solid core door, and some scraps, and added some clamp storage on it. Not pretty, but cheap and fast. This was taken before the table was mobile, but now it's got casters on it so I can move it where I want.


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## dutton101 (Jun 13, 2008)

Looks Great if you have wall space. I used an old bedroom dresser. Put it on wheels and made and over sized top so I could clamp to it. The drawers hold Irwin quick clamps, C-clamps, strap clamps, spring clamps and right angle corner clamps. It holds a LOT of clamps plus works as an assembly table.


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## Firechief2502 (Mar 3, 2014)

If it helps anyone, I live in a house built in 1908. My shop is in my cellar which is not very large or easy to work out of. I store my clamps on the ceiling joists over my bench. They are easy to reach and don't take up much space. Now I know many people can not do that, however, you might just look around and find a space you never thought of to store clamps. In my situation I really had no choice. But believe me I agonized over the problem before I looked up. Bill


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## Nickp (Dec 4, 2012)

I'm convinced...I need more clamps...


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## timbertailor (Oct 4, 2009)

Firechief2502 said:


> I store my clamps on the ceiling joists over my bench. They are easy to reach and don't take up much space.


Great use of space. That's where I currently keep my ladders!


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## old55 (Aug 11, 2013)

Welcome to the forum Jay.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Snakebyte said:


> I just built a simple table (for finishing) out of an old solid core door, and some scraps, and added some clamp storage on it. Not pretty, but cheap and fast. This was taken before the table was mobile, but now it's got casters on it so I can move it where I want.


Nice looking setup Jay . I see this is your first post so let me be the second to Welcome you to the forum


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Well I put together the first clamp rack dedicated to the K series Bessey's . Wish I didn't go quite as high on the top but it's only an aesthetic thing .
Doesn't look as good as the ones I've seen on the web but oh well . I bought a couple of 60" K series when I was at LeeValley but they only had 2 in stock and needed to fill 4 slots so two are empty for now .
If your wondering what's sticking out on the right its the French cleat attached to the wall . Went a little big incase I want to move it a little 



Guys I could add small 45 degree pieces underneith the 2 layers of plywood to support the clamps , but seeing as I went 2 layers thick for a total of 1-1/2" thick , do you really think I need supports ? 
The 60" clamps are pretty heavy


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## schnewj (Nov 18, 2013)

Now I know why you won't insulate! You'll loose storage space!


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

sure beats my 5 gallon bucket storage method!

good looking rack


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

The section the clamps sit on looks pretty sturdy so I don't think I'm going to reinforce it underneath 



They seem to sit secure but if they didn't I was going to attach that white plastic stuff cutting boards are made of and create a little lip . I don't think it's necessary though


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Forgot to mention this is part of my score for the day at Lee Valley . You guys recommended those corner helper clamps for assembly so I bought 3 pairs and a hand full of 2" and 3" spring clamps


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

kp91 said:


> sure beats my 5 gallon bucket storage method!
> 
> good looking rack


Thanks Doug . Hopefully tommorow I can whip up another one for the Irwin clamps


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## bernieke (Jun 21, 2011)

RainMan1 said:


> I don't know how you made the first one or if it's precut? Looks pretty wild whatever it is .
> Welcome to the forum Bernard


They're laser cut.

I got a nice old panel saw from my brother (really a beefy constructor saw, but to me it's wonderful, and an incredible upgrade to the cheap table saw I had before), left behind by the previous owner in the house he bought, and which he didn't want. (I've attached a picture of the saw he gave me.)

So I used the money I saved with not having to buy one to get myself a laser cutter instead. (Well, that's how I justified it to the wife anyhow :smile

I'm sure not many people would consider a laser cutter a real woodworking tool, but then again I'm a software engineer by trade, so to me CAD/CNC stuff looks just as much a tool like a hammer :laugh2:

I've also attached some pictures of some stuff I made with the laser cutter so far.
As you can see I built my desk with it as well. Just the top, sides, keyboard tray and drawer fronts were hand cut, the rest was all cut by laser.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

now this is impressive...
and then some...


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Bernard that's very impressive . Loving the desk! 
I have an 80 watt laser with a 600mm by 900mm bed so I'm limited to how thick I can cut .
I was curious as to what the output of your tube is on your laser ?


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## bernieke (Jun 21, 2011)

RainMan1 said:


> Bernard that's very impressive . Loving the desk!
> I have an 80 watt laser with a 600mm by 900mm bed so I'm limited to how thick I can cut .
> I was curious as to what the output of your tube is on your laser ?


Mine is the same, 600x900 at 80w. (But a good quality tube: Reci W2)

I can cut up to 12mm mdf (5mm/s 85% output) if need be.
And 9mm poplar plywood goes nicely at 11mm/s 85% output.
(I almost always cut at 85% output, and just go faster as my material gets thinner.)

It's also important to keep the mirrors and lens clean, you can lose a lot of output there. (Not to mention cause them to age much quicker.)
And off course, the better everything is aligned, the better it will cut too.


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## Snakebyte (Jan 23, 2013)

old55 said:


> Welcome to the forum Jay.


Thanks, longtime lurker, first post. Great ideas from like-minded woodworkers, always a plus.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

That desk is gorgeous, Bernard! _*Envy*_


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## old coasty (Aug 15, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> Well I put together the first clamp rack dedicated to the K series Bessey's . Wish I didn't go quite as high on the top but it's only an aesthetic thing .


I told you it would look good on your uninsulated studs

Bob


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

old coasty said:


> I told you it would look good on your uninsulated studs
> 
> Bob


Good point Bob . When you think about it my clamp racks will kinda clash on a drywall back ground :|


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## Loring (Feb 17, 2014)

RainMan1 said:


> Guys I have 8 Bessey K clamps 4-31"and 4-50" . Was thinking about adding 4-24" or is that a waste seeing as I have numerous Irwin clamps for that? I'm going with pipe clamps on anything larger than 50" .
> 
> I'm going to build a dedicated rack for the Bessey K clamps so I better decide how many it's going to accommodate


the problem with the parallel jaw clamps is that they are stout. Short clamps work better on small projects. Long clamps on small items tend to be like elephants in the bedroom - they won't let you put the item the way you want it to be the clamp weight dictates how it lays.


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## Loring (Feb 17, 2014)

I drilled and then used the bandsaw.
I only had a 12" BS so I think I had to do the ones in the middle using the table saw TK blade for the depth.


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Loring said:


> I drilled and then used the bandsaw.
> I only had a 12" BS so I think I had to do the ones in the middle using the table saw TK blade for the depth.


Well you did a great job staggering them like that . I have to invest in a bandsaw someday


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Ok I built the other rack to hold the Irwins and the smaller Besseys . I'm thinking about filling it with all Irwins and maybe make another one for the smaller Besseys .




I wish I put a shelf on the other rack now . May be modifying it yet as its kind of handy 

The clamps sit in the rack ok but are better when you tighten them up a little . Wondering if I should add a slot on the bottom to keep them straight . There not a real pain to get out as it is now , you just have to push the release a bit to slide them out . Tried them turned with the handles in but I prefer to have them with the handles towards the user


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

You are getting really organized ,Rick, I like the clamp rack, might have to copy it.

Herb


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## RainMan 2.0 (May 6, 2014)

Herb Stoops said:


> You are getting really organized ,Rick, I like the clamp rack, might have to copy it.
> 
> Herb


Herb I did a small radius on the bottom corners with my belt sanding machine so that if a guy hits his head on it underneith he doesn't get cut . I didn't do the top front edges because this shouldn't be a problem but I think it would have looked a bit redfined .
Or should a guy cut the top sides at a 45 degree angle . I probably could with my track saw


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## MT Stringer (Aug 15, 2012)

Your clamp racks look very nice. Good job, bud.


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## vindaloo (May 30, 2009)

And it'll all have to come down again when you insulate..........

Seriously though, nice job on the organizing.


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