# Least Noticiable Finish



## walkerrosewood (Jan 23, 2014)

I'm curious what is the least obtrusive way to finish any given piece of wood. I.E. no change in color, with little to no gloss. To appear as if there is no finish at all. 

Why then, even bother applying anything? To minimize discoloration, protect from moisture, etc.


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## walkerrosewood (Jan 23, 2014)

Looking for responses that apply broadly, but to elaborate on my current reason for asking...

I'm working on a wine rack that will go on the kitchen counter. I'd like to protect it from moisture and stains (as in food). It is composed of poplar and rosewood. I really like the natural look of the woods and not a fan of any amount of gloss. 

I usually finish with dark oil-based stains (I have an affinity for black). I don't know much about other types of finishes likes mineral oil, shellac, etc.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

I find that Scandinavian Oil seems to do what I want.


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

For a natural, satiny, finish I mostly use wipe on poly. Simply wipe (or brush) on 2 to 3 coats of the poly with a light buff of 0000 steel wool after each coat is dry. Then, after the last coat dries, apply a liberal coat of Johnson's Paste Wax with 0000 steel wool. Let it set for an hour or so then buff with a soft, lint free, cloth (t-shirt). I like this method for the natural look and it is (almost) idiot proof. YMMV


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Walker, you might like the finish and ease of use you get with Watco Clear Danish Oil. It gives a slight yellowing tint and a very soft sheen like french polishing. Glue up a couple scraps of your project wood so you can see the results before you commit to it.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I'm with George on the satin urethane, except I just use a 'fine' sanding sponge for the first couple of coats, then woven sanding pads for the last coat. I _never_ put wax over the last coat in case I need to recoat down the road. 
Urethane is pretty effective at slowing down the natural colour change of wood.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

walkerrosewood said:


> I'm working on a wine rack that will go on the kitchen counter. I'd like to protect it from moisture and stains (as in food). It is composed of poplar and rosewood.


You owe us pictures. 
Just sayin'


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

walkerrosewood said:


> I don't know much about other types of finishes likes mineral oil, shellac, etc.


So, then you get some scrap wood, of the type you will use, and experiment with the different finishes, until you get something you're satisfied with. I've used unused cooking oil with good results.

Or, you could get water/rot resistant wood, and not put any finish on it at all. 
Or, you could just nail it to the wall, and not have it on the counter at all. 
Or, just drink the entire bottle every time you open one. 
Plenty of options open to you, just up to you to decide what you want. And if you make something and the wood rots, no prob, just make another, using a different type of wood. Personally if I wanted a 'natural' finish, I might well just use some white Elmer's glue, thinned 50/50, and brushed on. I use thinned Titebond II on any number of things I make, but it does not dry clear like the Elmers, the Titebond dries with a sort of amber color, that I like.


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## walkerrosewood (Jan 23, 2014)

I picked up some of that Watco Danish Oil and some Satin Polyurethane. Is Scandinavian Oil the same as Danish Oil? Luckily I'm doing this completely for fun, so I have no time constraints. I'll try some various applications on some scrap and let it set for a few days. 



> Or, just drink the entire bottle every time you open one.


Haha, that's what usually happens. My current wine rack mostly houses old bottles that I think look cool or were particularly enjoyable. I keep them so I don't forget what brand they were.


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Walker, you will get used to the Aussie-speak. Same stuff with a different name down under.


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## walkerrosewood (Jan 23, 2014)

Pic as requested. Be gentle, this is my first project with a router. I managed to screw it up already too. If you look carefully you can see where I accidentally set the wrong depth for the dado cut on one side of the centerpiece. I made up the difference with the length of the diagonal piece, but it looks really silly. This has not yet been finished or glued up yet. Currently testing some various finish methods on scrap pieces. 

I picked this project because I knew it would teach me a lot, and it has already. Also if I get better at it I will have Christmas presents for almost everyone I know!! In the future I'd like to try this with nicer wood, roundover some more edges, and use dovetail joints.


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Never apologize for making mistakes in wood working...VBG

That is how we learn. Just that some of us take longer to learn.......LOL


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

But, what is it?


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

+1 on what James said!!! 
If I had a dollar for every mistake I've made, I could build James his rocker 

JOAT.. I do believe it is for storing wine bottles...


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

Looks good from here.
You could glue a piece over that spot.
Circle or diamond shape using the same wood as that inner member.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

TwoSkies57 said:


> JOAT.. I do believe it is for storing wine bottles...


Ah yes, believe you're right. When my mind saw that picture it just completely blanked out. That thing is going to look great when it's finished, and filled with Mad Dog 20/20. :haha:


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## demographic (Aug 12, 2012)

As a carpenter I'll admit that I'm no expert at finishes, generally I amble away and leave all that to someone else on building sites.

But, I do really rate clear Danish Oil as being a unobtrusive finish. Put more coats on if you feel like it needs it. 
It does change the colour and texture _slightly_ but personally I don't know of anything better.


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## walkerrosewood (Jan 23, 2014)

My test scraps are dry. I tried clear satin polyurethane, watco 'natural' color (clear?) danish oil, and the poly over the oil. 

All three darkened the wood. Only a little bit, but more than I wanted. I'm guessing it's because the poplar is so light to begin with. Right now it looks like my choices are to live with it being darker or leave it unfinished. Yet, the picture James posted looks so perfect! How do I get that result?

I know the more finely sanded the wood, the less paint and other finishes will absorb into it because sanding closes up the pores. So what grit is recommended _before_ applying oil finish?


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

walkerrosewood said:


> All three darkened the wood. Only a little bit, but more than I wanted. I'm guessing it's because the poplar is so light to begin with. Right now it looks like my choices are to live with it being darker or leave it unfinished.


Get you a small bottle of white Elmer's glue, thin it with water 50/50, brush a thin coat on. I would go with at least four coats. When I tried some, it dried totally clear on my plywood test piece, unless you felt it, couldn't tell any difference. Not to my liking, so I went back to Titebond II, which gives it a nice amberish cast, which I really like. Give the Elmer's a shot.


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## walkerrosewood (Jan 23, 2014)

Elmers glue, sure, I'm willing to try it. If it gets the look I want I that's great for my own house. 

However, if I ever decide to make something to sell on craigslist or etsy, somehow "finished with Elmer's glue" doesn't quite have the same ring as "finished with a fine Danish Oil in Dark Cherry." : )


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

Hey, Walker; I suspect that what you're seeing with the urethane finish is really the optical effect of light hitting, and reflecting off the mirror like finish, as opposed to the diffusion coming off sanded surface. Any physics majors here?
Urethane is by itself simply clear. 
I'll bet the lab rats at Varathane can give you a definitive answer.
RustOleum.com


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

walkerrosewood said:


> However, if I ever decide to make something to sell on craigslist or etsy, somehow "finished with Elmer's glue" doesn't quite have the same ring as "finished with a fine Danish Oil in Dark Cherry." : )


Simple solution. Don't tell what the finish is. Works for me. :sold:


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## Mike (Nov 22, 2004)

Walker, all woods darken when wet, even with water. The Watco finish is about as good as it gets for a natural look. You can buy water based acrylic finish that will dry clear from Minwax and others but the oil based finishes look the most natural.


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## DaninVan (Jan 1, 2012)

I was thinking about what I said in my last comment. As Mike says, water will make wood look darker, but even more to the point, water is used by rock-hounds, and everybody else working with stone and tile, to show the true depth of colour of the individual stone/tile. The liquid surface film just has that effect. As I said earlier, a physicist could explain the mechanics of the light.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

My wood guy uses Naphtha which evaporates away to see what the wood looks like when finished.
The Board Hoarder


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## walkerrosewood (Jan 23, 2014)

Theo, I tried the glue finish. I was at Walmart and oddly enough could not find white Elmer's glue, but they had clear Elmer's glue. I tried that with the 50/50 mix and sure enough once dry it is barely perceptible. However it is "washable" glue, which makes me weary about it's ability to stand up to moisture. I do think it will add some strength to the wood though, because it is still sticky at the 50/50 mix. 

For the wine rack I'm going to go with just the Danish Oil. It darkens the wood a little, but I'll live with it. I'm going to keep the glue mix in my bag of tricks for small pieces.


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## JOAT (Apr 9, 2010)

walkerrosewood said:


> Theo, I tried the glue finish. I was at Walmart and oddly enough could not find white Elmer's glue, but they had clear Elmer's glue. I tried that with the 50/50 mix and sure enough once dry it is barely perceptible. However it is "washable" glue, which makes me weary about it's ability to stand up to moisture. I do think it will add some strength to the wood though, because it is still sticky at the 50/50 mix.
> 
> For the wine rack I'm going to go with just the Danish Oil. It darkens the wood a little, but I'll live with it. I'm going to keep the glue mix in my bag of tricks for small pieces.


You must have been looking in the wrong section then; for some stupid reason, the local WallyWorld has glue in about three sections. Washable suggests to me that it is in fact washable, which would mean it could stand moisture, but I am sure that does not mean constant exposure to moisture. I know that Titebond cleans up with water, but once it's dry the finish on my canes has no problems with getting wet with rain. 
Go with whatever works for you.


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## Baller (Jun 13, 2011)

I've been applying 'natural finish' finishes to oak and walnut for years and the best way is with lightened hard-wax oil.

The problem is that anything, even water, will darken the wood, and clear polyurethane will give a plastic look finish. Oil's and waxes will give the natural texture but will still darken.

Using hard-wax oil with a lightening agent (I use oak lightening Fiddes brand) will give you a true natural appearance once the lightening agent kicks in (allow to fully dry before you judge), just don't use too much.


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## rwl7532 (Sep 8, 2011)

JOAT said:


> Washable suggests to me that it is in fact washable, which would mean it could stand moisture


Doubtful.

From the Blick's Elmer's Washable Glue page:
Elmer's School Glue launders out with soap and water — even after it dries.

Elmer's Washable School Glue - BLICK art materials


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