# Tool Chest



## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Now that the spouse has a nook in the shop I figured a personal tool chest was needed. I am going about this project the LONG way. I was just going to make a basic box type chest because I didn't trust my skills to do anything fancy. But I started surprising myself along the way so now it's getting much more detailed. I don't know how it will turn out but I'll post pictures and notes as I go along.
I started by playing around in Sketchup till I came up with something I liked. As I have expanded on the original plan the drawing got makeovers. I think this is the final now. Sketchup doesn't really reflect the colours and details but it's a good mock up.
The carcase is MDF with a walnut veneer and G1S fir ply dividers. The facings are spalted maple veneer. The drawer fronts will be zebra wood and the drawer boxes will be solid walnut. The hardware will be antiqued brass. There will be drop handles on the sides but I didn't draw those in.
Wish me luck...LOL.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*The Carcase*

I'll do a series of short posts so it won't get too boring. I'm two days into this now but I'll retrace my steps as I remembered to take SOME pictures.
I laid out the dados for the shelf dividers on a sheet of MDF. The idea was to cut them all at once and then cut the board into 3 pieces for the sides and back. This is going to be a "nailess" project for the most part so everything just gets glued together. I thought I'd try cutting Dados on the table saw as I haven't done that before and it's good to learn something new right? It went much better and was much easier then I anticipated. The top groove was the only one I was a little to wide on but I can live with it. Once the dados were done I cut the parts to width and glued them up with the bottom.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*Shelf Dividers*

The next step was to cut and fit 1/4" ply shelf dividers. This time I actually remembered to orient the grain properly.:blink: Even though the top dados are a bit too wide this will be hidden once all the facings are in place. The shelf will not wiggle because it's glued in place and glued to the shelf below it with the drawer dividers.
The dividers look bowed but they aren't. Just a camera anomaly I think.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Go girl!!!!!!!


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## curiousgeorge (Nov 6, 2006)

YOU DA MA... er, uh, PERSON! 
Lookin' good, Deb. Never limit yourself by thinking something is out of your league. Always give it a try and surprise yourself. :yes4:


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*Making Veneers*

Well the carcase turned out much better then I had anticipated so I decided I could try to spruce this basis box up a bit with some veneers. I have a lot of odd shorts and some small pieces of exotic woods that aren't big enough to do much more then make veneers with. So I fired up the bandsaw and after breaking my 3 TPI resaw blade (too much tension, snapped at the weld) I continued with a 3/8" 6 TPI blade that actually worked very well! I made some walnut veneers for the carcase sides and back and some spalted maple veneers for the facings. I made sure to use good dust collection and wear a mask while sawing both these woods as they are both toxic.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*Back Veneer*

I thought the best place to "practice" my veneering was on the back of the carcase.The boards are too thin to glue up before applying so I had to apply one at a time and hope for a tight fit. It's not bad but I am going to try a different approach on the sides to try to hide the seams better. None of my "shorts" were long enough to span the width of the back so I am going to borrow an idea from Jerry (xplorx4) and make spalted maple corner posts at the back. I think this will tie the back in with the front in a more asthetic way as well. 
Yeah it's getting crazy now..lol


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Now Deb that is really nice you are really honing your skills. Great job well done.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Dang, Deb.. That's looking *really* nice.. and you're giving Dan a run for the money of his Larry (the Cable Guy)'s "Git 'er Done" rate of progress!!


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

I just love "Build" threads!

Thanks for doing this Deb.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Deb all I can say is great job, the veneer look good, did I ever tell anyone, "I love walnut". The spalted maple will add to the character of the project. I plan to use some of mine in a coffee table top with a walnut edge and base.

I was just thinking, doing the write up as you have done helps safety wise also. By stopping and documenting as you go gives a natural brake to collect one's thoughts before moving on to the next operation. I believe not taking a break was a contributing factor in my accident. 

I am looking forward to seeing the spalted maple along with the walnut on your project. Thinking about your build, I really look forward to seeing it finished.Keep at it girl you are doing great.


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

Nice work and your off to a great start..


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Looks like a very useful chest. The best part is saying "I made it".
Good job.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks for all the compliments folks. My self confidence needs it..lol.
I worked on the side panel veneers today. I made them just slightly thicker so I could try gluing them up as a panel. I'll have to sand them a little more as they are too thin to plane now. It's tricky but hopefully it will work. You can only put enough clamp pressure to just close them, any tighter and they buckle. I think the secret will be in letting them dry for 24 hours before doing anything with them. That won't be a problem as I am off to work for the weekend so this is the last installment till next week some time. 

Jerry I totally agree that taking breaks and not forcing oneself to "git er done" is the best safety tip. I found myself pushing late at night to do "just one more thing". Once I recognized that I stopped completely. I think you make less mistakes on the project that way as well.  (Well some people do, I make the same number of mistakes regardless. :haha:.) 
Thanks for following along.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

That sure is some pretty walnut!!!:sold::sold:


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Great job Deb. I like it, it's going to look great when you're done.


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Deb that is some pretty nice walnut can't wait to see the finished results keep up the good work. You doing great.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Looking good and what fast progress Deb!


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Not only is that some mighty nice walnut but you've also done an awesome job of matching it up for gluing.. both pattern-wise and physically.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks guys! The only problem of working with these "shorts" or cut offs is that the colours and grains vary wildly. One panel has almost a red tint to it while the other is chocolate. The back panel is a lighter brown yet. So there is no continuous flow to the piece but that's another reason the corner posts will work as they make a clean break of the grains.
Geez I sound like I know what I am talking about or that I planned this. No to both, I'm just making it up as I go along.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Deb it looks great, I love walnut, let it vary in color and texture, that's why I like walnut. You are doing an excellent job.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

That's going to be a good looking tool cabinet. Very nice!

Corey


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*Oops!*

Today was good and bad. Much like everyday..lol
I finished glueing up the veneers only to find out one was too short. :angry: So I added a small piece to the bottom to lengthen it. Then I proceeded to cut the panels to size leaving a small space at the back corner for the corner posts. 
You might remember I made a point of putting the blade guard back on my table saw. Well when I was cutting the dados of course I had to take it off, and I didn't bother to put it back on. You KNOW where this is going.:nono:
I was making the last trim cut on the last panel. It was the one with the small piece glued on the bottom and as it was going through the blade I lifted my hand off the panel to try to move it to hold down the small piece to prevent it from breaking off. BAD IDEA.
The blade picked up the panel, twisted it and hurled it back at me. I was not standing in the path of the blade but just off to the right of the fence but the panel became a frisbee and just spun right into me. It's not a big panel but it might as well have been a baseball bat. :fie:
It hit me on the left rib cage and honestly for 5 minutes I was afraid to look at the damage. Sometimes it pays to have a little extra padding. Looks like I will end up with a nasty welted bruise but that's it. Yes I am buying lottery tickets next time I am out.
The other damage was the panel. :cray: As that was the final trim cut, to remove the damage meant making the panel too narrow. Instead of starting over I decided to "repair" it and just glued a cut off piece on the end and then put the blade guard back on the saw and trimmed that to size. This box is starting to look like a jigsaw puzzle.:sarcastic: 
I got the sides glued on and sanded. There will be more sanding before a finish is applied. Tomorrow I'll work on the spalted maple corner posts and facings.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

WoW!! Deb.. you better hit the casino too!! Glad it was a relatively painless "life lesson".


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Careful, Deb. Bad enough to damage a good panel, we don't another damaged woodworker.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Well my friend I am so thankful it is was not a hand. I am not going to fuss, you already know any and every thing I could say. I am so thankful it isn't any worse than it is.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

Looks like it's time you get some buddies for your saw b/4 you remove some parts.......

Grizzly.com® -- Search Results
G2370 Board BuddiesÂ® For Table Saws - Yellow

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CanuckGal said:


> Today was good and bad. Much like everyday..lol
> I finished glueing up the veneers only to find out one was too short. :angry: So I added a small piece to the bottom to lengthen it. Then I proceeded to cut the panels to size leaving a small space at the back corner for the corner posts.
> You might remember I made a point of putting the blade guard back on my table saw. Well when I was cutting the dados of course I had to take it off, and I didn't bother to put it back on. You KNOW where this is going.:nono:
> I was making the last trim cut on the last panel. It was the one with the small piece glued on the bottom and as it was going through the blade I lifted my hand off the panel to try to move it to hold down the small piece to prevent it from breaking off. BAD IDEA.
> ...


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Bob I have the Buddies. Unfortunately they are sitting in the box on my router table. :bad:


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Hey Deb. Glad to hear you were not seriously hurt. These little errors, we won't call mistakes but say, "character added to the tool chest.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Deb.. I'm saddened to hear you got hurt but glad to see you weren't maimed.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*Making Progress*

I have been working away at this when ever I have some free time. (not often enough it seems ) Right now I am on to the tedious part of adding facings. It would have been MUCH easier just to build this out of solid wood in the first place LOL. But I am using it as a learning experience more then anything.
I got the back corner posts made. Lots of trial and error, and error and error. I made them using the router to cut a rabbet and then trimmed them on the bandsaw. I made about 6 of them and finally got two that fit. I can really see the usefulness of a precision router lift and a micro adjust fence. I have neither.
It's a slow process cutting the facing veneers and gluing them then waiting for the glue to dry so I can glue the next one. Once all the facings are on, I will sand everything again to smooth it all out then on to the drawers!


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

yea its a slow process but what a nice job your doing..


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

mighty nice indeed!


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Hi Deb,

I have been following your progress with great anticipation,

You must be getting good vibes from the achievements you have made.

Go, girl, Go.....:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: 

Sorry to hear about your mishap, and hope that you are now fully recovered.

James


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Deb you are doing a great job, don't worry about how long it takes to do something you are not in a race with anyone!! Just go slow and enjoy the journey---have fun.


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

Hi Deb,

Woodworking is a sloooow, but enjoyable process. The say it is not about the the end result, but the journey getting there. :dance3:

Nice job so far and I am a fan of watching this thread and following your progress also.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*Confession Time*

I got the carcase finished today but made several faux pas in the process. I tried sanding the facings after I applied them and that was a big mistake. I didn't want to pre sand them as I was afraid of altering the dimensions too much. But trying to sand them after they were on was nearly impossible and in the process I rounded a lot of things I didn't want rounded. :sad:
I also lost some of the nice square lines I had and while it's not so noticable now, when I put square drawer fronts in those holes it's going to look like hell. I am trying to come up with some way to salvage it but nothing yet. :help: I need to hone my sanding skills A LOT!:bad:
The other problem was that some of the spalted maple chipped on exposed edges when I was sanding it. I guess it's rotten wood and you have to be ultra gentle with it, especially when it's cut very thin.
The other mistakes I made were not carrying the side front side facings all the way to the top. The mitered trim I put around the top should have the ends and inside edges covered. I just realized that a bit too late.:shout:
I sanded the entire carcase through progressive grits from 80 to 180 and then wiped it all down with mineral spirits, which really shows the errors. It's a good thing this box is never leaving the garage.:jester:
I made a start on the drawers in that I got the walnut resawn and milled to thickness. I will be putting 1/4" plywood bottoms in the drawers and using the OP jig to make box joints. I considered giving that box joint bit another try, but couldn't convince myself to give it a go. I'll put zebra wood facings on the drawer fronts.


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

You know I think that your doing a great job. Its not supposed to be perfect, the flaws and shortcoming is what give it character and uniqueness, Making the receiving person cherish it so much more..


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

I hate to tell you this Deb, but you are the only one who will see or know of the flaws 

That is turning out to be an excellent project!


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

I will 2nd the other post,,,,

Wood Working the ART of fixing errors..we all make them and the ones that tell you they did not and not putting it on the line..

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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Deb I agree in full with the others. Seems to me you once got on me about being too hard on myself, well go dust that sermon off go stand in front of a mirror and preach it again. We love ya girl!!!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Guys!:wub:
Lots of times we only see finished pieces and they all "look" perfect. Nobody may know the struggles the maker endured achieving that. I don't think mine is going to look perfect but yes it will have character..lol.
I am always open to suggestions on how to "fix" things. Sometimes I think too hard about these things and miss the obvious.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Deb,

Not long ago, I made an out-feed table for my TS, I kinda rushed it. The end result, was a big mistake. If you look in my gallery, you'll see it. Now, do I wish that I'd redo the table? Yes & NO!! Why? It reminds me of why we, as woodworkers really should take our time when it comes to woodworking. 

Now, as with others, so far so good. Keep it going. Can't wait to see it finished.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Deb,

Those pieces may look "perfect" now but I'd wager that if any of us made the exact same piece, same quality, same everything, we'd see flaws in it! We're our own worst critics!!





CanuckGal said:


> Thanks Guys!:wub:
> Lots of times we only see finished pieces and they all "look" perfect. Nobody may know the struggles the maker endured achieving that. I don't think mine is going to look perfect but yes it will have character..lol.
> I am always open to suggestions on how to "fix" things. Sometimes I think too hard about these things and miss the obvious.


You??? Miss the obvious??? I must be rubbing off on ya. Be afraid, be very afraid!


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## RStaron (Sep 25, 2009)

Looks good Deb, I like to ease the sharpe corners, helps to keep the wood from splintering. I can't wait to see the Zebra wood fronts.


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## Mt-Pockets (Sep 9, 2009)

Excellent work Deb...


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Well its the weekend and back to work for me! I did get one drawer box made. I need to make a small adjustment to my box joint, they are very tight. I had to do some creative glueing. (thinned the glue and injected it.) It isn't coming apart anytime soon.
But I would like them a little looser all the same. I'll post more details and pictures next week. Have a great weekend!


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I had that trouble with box joints. Too tight. They were being made exactly on and that caused problems.
I used a file to open them up a tad.


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## Schechner (Oct 13, 2009)

Deb - it looks great! I know exactly what you mean about all those "little things" that drive you crazy. I promise you'll be the only one to see them. I call them my "Adam quirks." Those tiny little things that only I know about and can see (like a 1mm gap between my dresser case and the top in the front left corner). It drives me nuts, but the only way to see it is by looking at it from the floor, which no one will ever do!

I'll be starting my next projects soon...maybe I'll do a build thread like this. i love the concept and seeing the progress.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Mike

No need to use the file . Bob R. showed how to fix that error on one his shows,,(with his magic hammer tool) you can't change the bit size but you can make the slot just a bit wider for the glue..  it's not a double pass thing but almost..in and then on the way out of the slot..it's only a .010 but it just right so they fit just right..without using a hammer to get them to hook up easy ..and dead on..  


Mike I should say how I do it without the hammer 

I use the deluxe push block,, it's make to do 1/4" to 1/2" box joints on the RWS jigs,,it has a adjustment built in so you can do all the 1/4" -1/2" ,once the bit is set right I put in a feeler gage to open the adjustment guide by .010" to .020", (with the brass setup bar in place in the guide of the push block ) you can call it a off set so to speak.. just push the stock over the bit and then move it over just a little bit on the way out of the slot and now it has a slot just a little bit wider than the bit..  but a nice clean slot..


http://www.routerforums.com/jigs-fixtures/3543-deluxe-push-block.html
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AxlMyk said:


> I had that trouble with box joints. Too tight. They were being made exactly on and that caused problems.
> I used a file to open them up a tad.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Mike I was going to try Bob R.'s method of using that fine adjustment tool a little harder then I normally do. I'm a soft touch. Of course I'll do another test cut first. If that doesn't work I may have to resort to your method BJ. 

Adam We'll be watching for your build thread. You are commited now..lol.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Deb I just finished reading your post and all I can say is wow when you get busy you sure get busy. I am really enjoying the progress your making and your craftsmanship is outstanding.

Your veenering skills are excellent and the choice of wood is simply beautiful. 

Working with solid wood edging is time consuming and tedious. One thing I have learned is making a few jigs to help out with gluing up the edging. I take a solid pice of wood and plow a dado cut to match the thickness of the shaelf material. On cethe long piece is cut I then go to the mitre saw and cut off 2 " blocks. These blocks help align and hold the edging on and allow a cushion to prevent any damge to the edging.

Another thing that helps is making the side pieces a little oversize. Once the edging is glued on I then trim them to their final size. Once it is all edged I then do a dry fit. After the dry fit and if ever looks good I then go for the glue up. I have made small triangles out of plywood that help me square the cabinet up while I clamp it. Woodmagazine had a good demo of this. I will email you the plans to make some if you want.

Your doing a great job as I expected and try not to be to hard on yourself. The first set of cabinets I made in the washroom remind me how I have progressed in my art form of making cabinets. 

Looking forward to the final project and sorry to hear about your accident. I am glad you were not hurt too badly.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Dan. I did make the trim/facing pieces a bit oversize, probably a 16th of an inch at least maybe a bit more and that's where I ran into trouble. The only way to trim them down was to sand them, and I should have hand sanded or even filed them down to size but I went at them with a power sander and ended up rounding them over or over sanding them in spots. I should have aimed for less on the oversize, maybe a 32nd. They were already glued on when I tried to trim them so no way to fix them now.  It was a mistake but a lesson as well. I should have cut one, glued it and trimmed it and I would not have made the same mistake on all of them. I didn't even realize how bad the sanding was going till I was finished and looked at it closely. This isn't even going to be one of those "stand back 3 feet and it's fixed" things either. 
The good part is it will be in the shop as a reminder on what NOT to do next time. 
I am pretty proud of my veneering and panel glue ups. I am still novice enough to surprise myself now and then


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*Some Progress*

I had to catch up on all the housework I have been neglecting today so I didn't get much time in the shop. I got some of the drawer parts cut and labeled. I made one drawer last week. 
The other picture is the zebra wood and the board on top of the box is the black locust I will be incorporating into the lid. I am going to adjust the lid design just slightly and create a small lip around the top. Two reasons for that: One I don't have any walnut long enough to make the lid out of solid walnut, and the other is the lip will hide any uneveness in the top from my sanding faux pas. 
I picked up all the hardware for the box at Lee Valley last week. Tomorrow I hope to get the drawers completed hopefully including the zebra wood fronts. Then on to the lid! :happy:


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Lookin good Deb keep up the good work.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Coming along very nicely Deb. Where'd you get that great idea to use tape for a temp. drawer pull?


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

I really like the Zebra wood. Where did you find it?

What do you plan to do for the drawer pulls? Will you be making your own with a contrast wood like Maple and then dado a groove and have a tenon on the handle to fit into the groove? Just an idea for you to consider seeing this will be the mother of all tool boxes.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

LOL Mike, a certain brilliant forum member gave me that little drawer pull tip!
I got the zebra wood from A&M Wood Specialty. My friend who is a luthier buys a lot of his guitar wood there and he picked it up for me.
Dan your idea for the handles sound good but I am going with antique brass hardware. I didn't want anything too shiny taking away from the wood grains.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Here's just one more way to make your own draw pulls 

=======


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

bobj3 said:


> Here's just one more way to make your own draw pulls
> 
> =======


Yes that is exactly what I was tihnking. I think al wood would be really nice given all the wood work we all l ove to do. 

But Deb your Brass handles would look good to. But think of it as another learning oppportunity of making your own handles.:laugh:


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

It's good to know you folks are always willing to test my abilities.:sarcastic:
Those wooden handles look nice but they are a little bulky for this box. I am going for something little more subtle. But I am sure there will be a project in my future where I'll get to try that method. May be one coming up very soon actually.h34r:
I am just gluing up some drawer bottoms and will have some pics later.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*Drawers!*

Today went reasonably well although I didn't get quite as far as I planned. I got the rest of the drawer parts cut to size and then made some adjustments to the box joint jig (with my fine adjusting tool) and managed to get a nice fit. I cut all the box joints and managed not to screw up, although I did have to go back and recut some that were too short???.:blink: Must have been debris under the wood. 
I labelled all the parts and once I was satisfied with the dry fit, I went back and cut the grooves and dados for the drawer bottoms. The fit was perfect! :dirol: So I started the tedious job of gluing up the drawers. I could only do 3 at a time because of lack of clamps. I gave them all about an hour to dry then sanded off the proud parts of the box joints. Everything went together very smoothly. 
The major problem today was my forgetting to take pictures. :cray: I was in "production" mode I guess. 
Tomorrow will be some light finish sanding and then the drawer fronts. :dance3:
I included a picture of the hardware too.


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Easy Harry. Deb has done a fine job on pics so far. And her tool chest is a fine example of her work.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Looking good Deb. I assume the drawers will be inset flush? Very well done. Every think of getting some white chalk lol your going throught tape like Jimmy Carter did pills!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

You know Dan, now that you mention it, I have a whole bunch of chalk I bought at a garage sale. Some soap stones too. Thanks for reminding me and for a great suggestion! I put a couple in my high tech pencil holders. :lol:
Yes the drawers will be flush... hopefully.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks for saving me from Harry's wrath Dave


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Deb

You have it looking very nice 

But I don't see any room for drawer guides wood or metal..
Tools are very hvy.,,by the look of your box it will be a 200 lb. plus tool box once you have it loaded up with tool and things.

I have one or two tool boxes and the one without any guides are a real PITA to pull open..the higher end tool boxes always have ball bearing roller guides,they are very thin the norm, 3/16" thick the norm..I keep thinking of the big one, ( taco wagon ) it must have 200 lbs.+ in every drawer the smaller wooden ones have wooden guides in place and it's a must have item if you want to use it..

They also act a stopping point for the drawers,so they close to the right point every time and they keep the drawer from coming out to far as well..if it's worth doing it's worth doing it right..

I will say it's not to late to put some in place but to each his way...

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CanuckGal said:


> Today went reasonably well although I didn't get quite as far as I planned. I got the rest of the drawer parts cut to size and then made some adjustments to the box joint jig (with my fine adjusting tool) and managed to get a nice fit. I cut all the box joints and managed not to screw up, although I did have to go back and recut some that were too short???.:blink: Must have been debris under the wood.
> I labelled all the parts and once I was satisfied with the dry fit, I went back and cut the grooves and dados for the drawer bottoms. The fit was perfect! :dirol: So I started the tedious job of gluing up the drawers. I could only do 3 at a time because of lack of clamps. I gave them all about an hour to dry then sanded off the proud parts of the box joints. Everything went together very smoothly.
> The major problem today was my forgetting to take pictures. :cray: I was in "production" mode I guess.
> Tomorrow will be some light finish sanding and then the drawer fronts. :dance3:
> I included a picture of the hardware too.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Lots of wax helps drawers slide.
I have a roll of teflon tape that I believe came from the window department of a store. It's a very thin strip of stick-on teflon that I have used in a pinch.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

UHMW Slick Tape 
UHMW Plastic Sheets and Strips

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AxlMyk said:


> Lots of wax helps drawers slide.
> I have a roll of teflon tape that I believe came from the window department of a store. It's a very thin strip of stick-on teflon that I have used in a pinch.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Bob I think you think this box is bigger then it is. The dimensions are 11 1/4" D x 16" H x 15 3/4" W. If the spouse gets 200 pounds of tools in there we are getting a bigger shop!
However you have a point about drawer slides. The drawers are "loose" in the cubbys and that may cause a problem with closing them if there is a lip on the facings. I am putting the drawer facings on today so I will have to see what happens. I don't think the solution is drawer glides or runners. Each drawer had it's own compartment with a full bottom. Right now they slide in and out no problem. There is enough slop in them now that even if the wood swells it won't affect them. It would have been nice if I had the forethought to consider this before I got to this point as it would have made the drawers fit a little nicer. But I'll sort it out somehow. Maybe a taper on the lips?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

I got this one,and I was lucky to get it on sale for 50.oo bucks,it's well over 170 lbs. ,,18 lbs.for the box and the rest of it's tools..2 lbs here 3 lbs here and b/4 you know it's to hvy.to move around by one man.

- Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

=============


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Bobj... What does that chest use for sliders? I've looked at the pictures before and it appeared to be using a wooden dado. Is it my eyes? If so, can you still open / close the drawers when they are heavy? UHMW?


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Jim

You got it, just some hardwood guides,they are waxed a little bit and move ok.. they are full of iron and junk like most of my tool boxes are  I'm a great keeper of iron blocks ( tool steel ) that I use all the time,I have one drawer that must weight 50 lbs. or so .. 

I do love tool boxes  , I have 3 big ones and many small ones > > >

http://www.routerforums.com/59079-post24.html

=======



BigJimAK said:


> Bobj... What does that chest use for sliders? I've looked at the pictures before and it appeared to be using a wooden dado. Is it my eyes? If so, can you still open / close the drawers when they are heavy? UHMW?


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*Drawer Fronts*

This morning I started off by finish sanding all the drawers. My next project will be to build an air filtration system and a down draft sanding table combo unit. I already have the furnace blower and motor. But in the meantime I had to jury rig the set up in the picture. 
When that was done it was on to cutting the drawer fronts from the zebra wood. I cut to rough dimension then snuck up on the final fits. Zebra wood is very stringy and doesn't cut very clean. It's also hard to plane without getting tear out. And you want to be careful what tape you stick to it as it can pull the wood fibers right out rather easily. I had one drawer front that was a bit tight in the opening and I used a piece of duct tape to get a good grip on it. Bad idea. :angry: But it was repairable. Then I put glue on the fronts, slipped them into the slots against the drawers and popped a couple of brad nails in to hold them in place till I pulled the drawers out and put clamps on them. That way I got them centered on the drawers according to the openings. I am sure this is NOT the way to do it but it worked for me. :blink: That's why there are no pictures of it. :jester: The nail holes are minuscule and easy to fill. 
I don't have the exact flush fit I was after, that has a lot to do with my bad sanding. Tomorrow I am going to finish sand the drawer fronts then work on bandaging the fit. 
The piece of Zebra wood on top of the box will be used for the lip on the box lid.
I think I will go order some of those box making books John (vikingcraftsman) suggested.


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

Bot some how I missed this thread. But I made up for it by reading all six pages to night. Out standing deb. Boy you turn out the work when you put your mind to it. Now on each drawer front you will have to put a band of maple around it. So it will be like Lydgate.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Looking good Deb. Sounds like you could use the sanding table I built. If you need some plans let me know.

Do oyu use a zero tolerance throat plate? If not it may help with tear out. How sharp are your saw blades? Simple green works well to clean them with a tooth brush.

Looking forward to the final outcome keep up the pics and progress your doing great. 

I really like the loko of that Zebra wood.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Dan I am using a ZCI and the blade is almost new. It was cutting everything else to a glue line finish. I think it's just the wood. I wasn't getting tear out on the TS but I was getting a lot of "fuzz". Stringy stuff. 
But thanks for the tip about the Simple Green. I have a gallon it! I really like it for cleaning. I have a gummed up bandsaw blade I am going to try it on


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Looking good Deb, I got a bunch of that spalted maple from my brother-in-law up in Ohio, could have gotten more just ran out of room in the Pathfinder.


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

looks real nice your doing a great job.


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

Ok Deb the scam is over. You are building a big jewlery box for your self. You just said it was a tool box for the love of your life to look mocho in front of us hard as nails tool guys.


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

CanuckGal said:


> Bob I think you think this box is bigger then it is. The dimensions are 11 1/4" D x 16" H x 15 3/4" W. If the spouse gets 200 pounds of tools in there we are getting a bigger shop!
> However you have a point about drawer slides. The drawers are "loose" in the cubbys and that may cause a problem with closing them if there is a lip on the facings. I am putting the drawer facings on today so I will have to see what happens. I don't think the solution is drawer glides or runners. Each drawer had it's own compartment with a full bottom. Right now they slide in and out no problem. There is enough slop in them now that even if the wood swells it won't affect them. It would have been nice if I had the forethought to consider this before I got to this point as it would have made the drawers fit a little nicer. But I'll sort it out somehow. Maybe a taper on the lips?


 For the next box you do you might want to look at Doug Stowes book Creating Beautiful Boxes with Inlay Techniques. One page 101 and two pages after he does a drawer slide that you might like to incorporate in the next box.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

A big jewellery box:no: I don't own any jewellery except a Tony the Tiger watch and a birthstone ring. I can't wear jewellery at work, I don't wear it at home, and I don't go out enough to warrant spending any money on it. The spouse has never given me a ring. :cray: But we aren't married either. Acually I got a 42" plasma tv in place of the ring which suited me fine!
I know it doesn't look like a "tool" box but I am not very conventional as you can see. :haha:


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

Jewelry?? why spend money on the flashy when theirs tools to buy!!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Exactly!


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

Oh boy my wife has jewlery that goes back three generations. From what I can gather my wifes granfather never said more than a couple of words. Still worring that that some assaian from the old counrty would track them down. Just another story in the big picture of life on planet earth.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Hey Deb my Dad made a couple small cabinets, he used weather stripping to keep the drawers centered along with some small wedges to center the drawers when pushed in. The attached are the two that I got. You can see a dremmel under the one it was a router table, sort of. The drawer sides are 1/16 mahogany plywood the rest is 1/8. Dad had lost a considerable amount of his eye site when he made these. You can see the centering wedge in the last pic.


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## kp91 (Sep 10, 2004)

neat idea, Jerry!


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Neat idea, those wedges.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Well I be! I had that idea with the wedges, but thought wow that is REALLY cheating. It was the same principal I was going to apply to the drawer facings, by tapering them to ward the back of the drawer so as it slid in it would center itself. All the time I am thinking that is NOT the way to do it properly and here you are telling me this is an old tried and trusted method. Thanks Jerry for confirming I am NOT crazy..LOL.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*Hits and Misses*

I decided I was going to cheat and get the drawers flush like I had originally intended them to be. So I glued strips to the backs and then sanded them till I got the flush fronts. It's not perfect but it looks much better. It does accent my sanding flaws, but I'll have to live with that.
Now it's on to the lid. I don't have a piece of walnut big enough so I decided to use a piece of walnut with a black locust trim. The only good sized piece of walnut I could use had some serious contrast from one face to the other but I resawed it and glued it up hoping for the best. 
The picture doesn't show it very well but the contrast is WAY too much. It looks like two completely different pieces of wood. While I am collaging all these woods together, it's not the look I was after.
Now I don't have any more walnut I can resaw or glue up to get the size I need. So I need some input. I am thinking of doing the lid with the black locust and a contrasting piece of wood running horizontally across the middle. I have some purple heart, some paduk, and some blood wood. I am leaning toward the blood wood only for the grain, but I think the purple heart would look nice with the locust. The paduk would work too. 
The last option would be to go buy another piece of black walnut if I can find some or a piece of plain maple. 
What do you folks think?


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Deb you are NOT crazy, Dad was an accomplished woodworker perhaps to a fault. He was a perfectionist, seems he could rarely do anything good enough, a trait I try to avoid, but as you know I do not always manage that.



CanuckGal said:


> Well I be! I had that idea with the wedges, but thought wow that is REALLY cheating. It was the same principal I was going to apply to the drawer facings, by tapering them to ward the back of the drawer so as it slid in it would center itself. All the time I am thinking that is NOT the way to do it properly and here you are telling me this is an old tried and trusted method. Thanks Jerry for confirming I am NOT crazy..LOL.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*Box lid design*

Well I made an executive decision, since the spouse's favorite colour is red I am going with the blood wood. I made a design in sketchup.


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

*Is this blood wood*

Sorry for jumping your post but I have to find out if this is blood wood?


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## Bob N (Oct 12, 2004)

vikingcraftsman said:


> Sorry for jumping your post but I have to find out if this is blood wood?


John,

That does not appear to be bloodwood and I would say it is more like mahagony. Sometimes pictures can be deceiving though. Maybe others will have some thoughts with better eyes than mine


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

I have some rose wood that looks similar.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

vikingcraftsman said:


> Sorry for jumping your post but I have to find out if this is blood wood?


John,

You may want to post this in the wood species section. This may help to get the right answer.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I didn't have much shop time today but I got the parts cut for the lid. I'm on the midnight shift this weekend so I probably won't get back into the shop until Tuesday after I recover.
Blood wood is messy. Leaves a red/pink dust all over everything.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I had some blood wood a while back and it was way messier then that.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Jerry LOL now thats way off side but then again from you maybe not.


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## BrianS (Nov 7, 2004)

Deb, nice work on the chest.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jerry I don't mean to laugh, but was that pun intended?..

Thanks Brian !


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Deb I have been rightly accused of having a weird, maybe even sick, sense of humor. I have to admit that they are right. The only redeeming fact is that I direct it at me and it is never meant to be directed at others, so a laugh is good, real good. I think if you read Dan’s comment, he's got me pegged!!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Jerry. Got it!


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## vikingcraftsman (Mar 31, 2006)

*What your jewlery drawer*

This is what your jewlery drawer would look like if you decide to keep the tool box.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

John that would surely work.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

*Crowning Glory*

I got to get into the shop for a bit this morning so I worked on my lid. There are a couple of firsts here for me. It was my first time making serious mitered corners. It was also my first time using my Ryobi biscuit joiner. Both went very well!:yes4:
I cut the mitered corners on my Bosch SCMS and they came out perfect!:sold: Once I got the biscuit slots marked and cut it was just a matter of gluing it all together. 
I know some will ask why I didn't put biscuits in the mitered corners, as I think that's where they would have done the best work. I'll give the simple answer. I don't know how. :'( That'll be on my "to learn" list for next time.
I still have to make the lip for the top and I am kicking around different ideas on how to attach it, including biscuits, a long tenon, or a plain butt joint. Suggestions are welcome!


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

You're certainly developing skills there Deb ... nice work!! 

You're right, a couple of biscuit in the mitre woulda been a good idea. however, I've found that a couple of nice splines work every bit as well as biscuits in exposed corners like yours above and add a very nice touch...

Jigs are straightforward and easy to mfg.. I'm very much looking forward to your finished project....

bill


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Hi Deb,

You're question about biscuits in the corners brings to my mind a dvd from Norm Abrams. It shows the best way for mitered corners. New Yankee Workshop - New Yankee Workshop Collection - Miter Bench and Storage It's a bit pricey but, well worth the cost.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Deb nice job on the lid. 


To make biscuits in the corners you will have to keep in mind the size of the biscuit in relation to the size (length) of the mitre corner. In your pictures I see you used the standard size biscuit. However, the these biscuits would be to big to use on the corners I think. If you measure the slot after you cut it into a piece of wood you will get a measurement. I like to add 1/2" extra to each end for a safe working area. 

Don't forget biscuits come in three sizes: #0, #10, #20. I have the Porta Cable 557 model and all I have to do is turn the dial and if I use the small biscuits I need to change the blade to the smaller one.

To make cutting mitres with the biscuit joiner I made a Biscuit Jig that the Biscuit Joiner attacher's to . See the file I attached for a idea.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Bill, I'll keep the splines in mind. That would be a good and easy idea.

Ken looks like that video has a lot of info, I wish they sold it separately from the plans as I don't plan to build a miter station in my already overcrowded shop. (Not that I wouldn't love to have one as nice as that!)

Dan thanks for those plans! That looks like a nice jig, and it's now added to my long jig list 
You are right about the biscuits being too big, even the 00's. My joiner is a simple dial adjustment as well and does all three sizes. I think Bill hit the nail on the head with the splines for smaller miters.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

The Keyhoe Spline Dovetail Jig is another handy thing for making boxes and such. Have apeek:

The Workshop of Charles Neil - Video Player - Tips & Techniques


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Looking very good Deb, love the wood, much better looking than mine to be sure.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Dan I have seen that video and jig before. Looks interesting. 
Thanks Jerry. It looks good till I get through with it...lol. Today I am fixing a BIG mistake. Will post more later.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Here, Deb.. Here's some big band-aids for fixing big boo-boos. Sorry that there's only a couple left.. I used the rest of the big box last weekend!


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Jim I need some roll bandages. I can make mistakes by the dozen!
Anyhow after the glue dried and I set the lid on the box I discovered it was too short from front to back. All my measuring and sketch up drawings and I *STILL* got it wrong. :angry:
I pondered many ways to fix it but the simple and most obvious was to add another strip of black locust to the back. I attached it with biscuits also as it will be integral to the hinges. It's a "fix" nothing more. I am terribly disappointed because here I was bragging about how well the lid making was going. I should know better. :sad:
I made the lip piece also today. That will be attached with biscuits also. 
Between tomorrow and Friday I will get the last of the sanding done then this project goes on hold till I build my air filter unit and get rid of the pink dust that has taken over my shop. That new DeWalt compressor is going to get a workout. I can't possibly start any finishing until I get rid of the dust. :bad: I may get this project finished by Xmas.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

I gotta tell you Deb that looks first class!! Job well done, you have nearly completed a fine looking tool box and managed to keep any mistakes well hidden, again good job.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

*Mighty* fine, Deb.. and as I've said before, I'm fairly sure you could take any meticulously made project by some woodworking master and the maker would see mistakes.. even if no one else would!

As BJ's said, the expert is just good at hiding them. Good hiding..


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Well said to you and BJ, It isn't the mistake you make it's what you make of the mistake that matters. Keep thinking ahead so that what is behind can't pull you down. Deb you are doing a fine job, keep looking ahead and you will work it out.





BigJimAK said:


> *Mighty* fine, Deb.. and as I've said before, I'm fairly sure you could take any meticulously made project by some woodworking master and the maker would see mistakes.. even if no one else would!
> 
> As BJ's said, the expert is just good at hiding them. Good hiding..


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Well Deb I think it looks better with the edging on the back lid. When I first saw the pics without it I was wondering if you were going to finish it all the way around.

One thing you may want to try next time is doing a dry fit with the clamps on. This does two things for me:

1) Ensures everything fits as it should and if not I can correct it before I finish it.

2) Gives you an idea how to apply the clamps and in what sequence. After you take the clamps off they are in the right position for final glue up and it takes less time to set them.

What ever the final dimension is on the lid can be corrected bu cutting it down but then adding the back edge to bring it to the final dimension. A little more work but will correct the mistake. 

For balance as well you may want to consider making the new piece on the back the same dimension as the sides or at least match the front.

I hope you do not mind me making suggestions on your GREAT project. You really are too hard o n yourself. I think you have done an amazing job on the project. You have taken an idea and transformed it into something you should be very proud of.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks everyone for you generous comments. 
Dan you are right, I should have checked the fit during the dry fit stage. Hindsight is 20/20 as they say.
I couldn't make the back edge the same width as it would have really thrown the lid off dimensionally. Yes I should have considered the back edge from the onset, it does "finish" it better. If I had done it that way it would have been much easier to fix as well. (Maybe I wouldn't have messed up?)
I appreciate all the suggestions. I am still a novice, and while I don't like admitting my mistakes it is the best way to learn.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Deb when you are finished you might want to sit down and list your mistakes, NO not to beat yourself up, but to determine what you can do to so as not to do that again. That is what I have done regarding my accident, I thought it through and relived it till I was certin how it happened and have taken steps to add several layers of safety so as to avoid a repeat performance. Oh yea it would be nice, if you want to, to share it with us so we too can learn.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Jerry I think that's a great idea. But be prepared, it's a long list!


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

They key to learnig is having the right ATTITUDE. 

Deb you have an awesome attitude and your a quick learner and a smart lady!

Keep on trucking girl your almost there.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

TRN_Diesel said:


> They key to learnig is having the right ATTITUDE.
> 
> Deb you have an awesome attitude and your a quick learner and a smart lady!
> 
> Keep on trucking girl your almost there.


Well said Dan, it is interesting what one can go through with a good attitude. May we all maintain a good attitude, for me that is a choice and is external of my life’s circumstances, that one has been, at times, a difficult one to get around me. Life is a journey not a destination.


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

xplorx4 said:


> Deb when you are finished you might want to sit down and list your mistakes, NO not to beat yourself up, but to determine what you can do to so as not to do that again. That is what I have done regarding my accident, I thought it through and relived it till I was certin how it happened and have taken steps to add several layers of safety so as to avoid a repeat performance. Oh yea it would be nice, if you want to, to share it with us so we too can learn.


How about a *"Learn From Our Mistakes" *section; we could all list stuff that happened, and what we learned, and how not to make the same mistake twice (if we know that) etc. etc.

It would help us all learn to be safer, and better our woodworking skills. :yes2:


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

That sir is, for my part, a fantastic idea and would make an excellent new topic. Now if I could remember how we go about making a suggestion??? It will come to me as soon as Bob tells me how!!:haha::haha:




jd99 said:


> How about a *"Learn From Our Mistakes" *section; we could all list stuff that happened, and what we learned, and how not to make the same mistake twice (if we know that) etc. etc.
> 
> It would help us all learn to be safer, and better our woodworking skills. :yes2:


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks guys! I really like woodworking, I don't suck at it quite as bad as I do golf which is another thing I really enjoy. I am getting better at woodworking little by little thanks to all the great support from this forum. I didn't expect to know it all right off the bat. Fortunately I like to read, and I am pretty good with the internet for finding stuff. The wealth of knowledge is out there one just has to make use of it. 
The spouse keeps reminding me "it's just a hobby". Actually it's become more of a passion for me. The only one I have to please is myself and unfortunately I am one tough customer..lol. But anything worth learning is worth learning well. So yep, I'll keep on trucking. 
I like the Learn From Our Mistakes idea. I could be a major contributor there!


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

jd99 said:


> How about a *"Learn From Our Mistakes" *section; we could all list stuff that happened, and what we learned, and how not to make the same mistake twice (if we know that) etc. etc.
> 
> It would help us all learn to be safer, and better our woodworking skills. :yes2:


 
Technically, this is already covered: Shop Safety - Router Forums


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

Hamlin said:


> Technically, this is already covered: Shop Safety - Router Forums


Yes but I am talking more about how we are doing things, ya ever have a project where you made or did something a certin way that didn't quite work that well, but after it was done you figure out another way to do or make it that's better and in turn safer. The shop safety section for the most deals with keeping all our digits, and what people have done, that almost cost them one or two. I thinking this could be more on procedures what sorta works, but a change in the procedure works better quicker etc..


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Could you not just cover it in the post as you go. Doucment your findings?


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## jd99 (Jun 17, 2009)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Could you not just cover it in the post as you go. Doucment your findings?


that be one way but it would not be in one section, if you were going to try something and you remember that one of us had done it or tried it and had come up with a better way; you would have to search everyones projects if you couldn't remember who posted it.

Maybe more of a tips and tricks, instead of learn from our mistakes. We started a Tips and Procedures thread on the metal working fourm I visit from time to time and it comes in handy to look up ways to do things, but if it doesn't work here and is not really for this forum then that's OK.

Back to the tool chest, sorry for the thread drift.


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## Gap_308 (May 2, 2009)

Just read the entire post front to back and links, Deb your work looks great, my wife loved the colors of the wood and said that would be a nice jewelry box. I have one month to xmas :'(. I really like the way the drawers came out........looks cool. More pics, more pics


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

I am thinking maybe i should build a jewellery box next? 
It will be a couple of days before I get anything else done to this box. Unless I bring it into the house to finish it, it will have to wait till I get the shop cleaned up. I don't think the spouse would like the idea of wood finish smelling up the house. I practically live in the garage now so none of those smells bother me anymore..lol.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Looks like I have finally reached the end of this project! I spent the last couple of days applying Minwax fast drying satin poly to the box, and I can tell you it doesn't dry that fast. It says 4-6 hours but it took closer to 12 to get it good and dry. The shop is a little cool and that may have been part of the problem.
I applied 2 coats with a light sanding between. I need to work on my finishing skills too. I had to fix a lot of boo boos.:'( 
Last was the hardware and the trickiest part was putting the side handles on. I had to use the old run the countersink back wards from the inside trick. The hinges and hinge mortises gave me grief too. I used the Bosch Colt to make the mortises. If I had made and used a mortise jig things would be a lot prettier. Oh yes and none of the hinge or stay hardware came with screws. I really HATE that about Lee Valley hardware. For the price of it you think they could throw in a couple of brass screws! Needless to say I didn't have any dark brass screws so I went with what I had. I also HATE slotted brass screws. I may change them out down the road, but for now it is what it is.
Overall I am reasonably happy with the way it turned out. The spouse is quite tickled. I have made many mental notes about what NOT to do next time. It was a very good learning experience as there were many aspects of woodworking involved. Some times though I wish I had a friend or neighbour like Jerry to come over and show me things. My luthier friend lives 50 miles from me so we don't get to hang out as much as I would like. He has been a great mentor to me.
Think I am going to take a shop break for a couple of days. I have been in there pretty steady with this project and everything else has gone to hell in a hand basket around here..lol.:moil:


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

very nice Deb! i know after all the time and energy you invested youre proud of it and you have a right to be!

how does the hb like it?


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Levon  The spouse is talking about what tools to buy to fill it. I have to find some way to thwart that as I have bought a lot of things for xmas that will fill that bill. I already caved and gave one gift early.


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## BigJimAK (Mar 13, 2009)

Fantastic job, Deb!


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Excellent work Deb. The only thing I see wrong is,* it's not setting in my shop.*


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## Gap_308 (May 2, 2009)

I knew I had seen this before, Deb before clicking the link come up with a price on your head that you sell it for on ebay or wherever. Yours is very close to this, Then click....... 

LE616


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Outstanding job Debbie! You should been very proud of your tool chest because there is not another one like it. 

Well done!

P.S. I got the laminate done on the benchtop and will post pics tomorrow.


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## xplorx4 (Dec 1, 2008)

Very very well done, The finish looks great. You should be well pleased as is your spouse.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks so much for your comments! Scott, I was NO WHERE near those prices. YIKES! Of course if I calculated all the time I actually put into it, applied what I make at work as my hourly fee, my box would be worth a lot more then those..LOL. 
But the experience and pleasure from making it and it actually looking pretty good... well that's priceless.


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## Glenmore (Sep 10, 2004)

Deb that is really magnificent and outstanding. Now could you build me one?


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Glenmore I am going to try another toolbox one day, but this time I am going to follow a pre-made plan just to see how that works differently from my helter skelter method..lol.


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## PlayasTeo (Nov 14, 2009)

This project is so pretty ,that it looks more like a living room piece of furniture than a tool box.
Congratulations.
Teo


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Teo, The more I look at it the more I like it too.


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## AxlMyk (Jun 13, 2006)

Very, very nice Deb. That is a real beauty.
I know what you mean by taking a break. It was a while after I finished mine that I started something else.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Mike. I have several projects planned:
Finish my clamp rack now that I bought all those clamps.
Build my 3 in 1 Air Cleaner, Downdraft Sanding Table, Tablesaw Outfeet unit.
Build a cabinet for under the tablesaw extension for storage.
I hope to get most of those done before Xmas.

The New Year has a whole new list of household things I have been putting off till I got a little more experience under my belt. Maybe by then I can let it out a notch


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## TrBlu (Feb 12, 2010)

That is a beautiful Tool Chest. Thanks for sharing the process with us.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Tim!


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## drasbell (Feb 6, 2009)

some how I missed the post that your chest was done, I must say what a great job you did on it, it would look great in any shop, well done,


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Thanks Rick! It is getting good use in the shop.


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

I didn't read through the whole thread, but picked up some confirmation regarding what I had planned to do with the next project since my last one that needed a lot of dados in the exact same spot didn't turn out very good on some boards 

I am going to try to do the dados before I cut it all down to dimension and it is just good to see that some one else has done it and had good luck.

I lost count how many little cubby holes I was building in the last project, but it was all supposed to line up nicely from top to bottom with little dividers. It was to hold all of those little plastic bins for screws and misc since I was tired of the mess that would happen in the plastic container with things some how overflowing the compartments.

It still works, just lots of crooked dividers. I also managed to miscount and forgot to make one cross shelf with its dados so there would have been another 5 slots. Now that empty spot is on the top and used to hold things that are too small for the little cubby holes.

When I saw your first few posts and pics I was going "why didn't I do that?" as yours looked very nice. 

That's two recent projects of yours I want  How far over the border are you? Do traveling work? I have a whole walk in closet that needs to be done starting with the framing going to the finish with built-ins...area planned, just nothing at all there now, bare wall studs, concrete floor. Help accepted


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Derek to make a series of dados all spaced the same use a router with a guide and slot to duplicate the dados. They will all be the same. If you still un claer let me know I will send you a jig to use for it.


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## levon (Sep 14, 2008)

hi Derek, i think what Dan is saying is you need to use a jig to make the dadoes .

many times it is easier to make your dadoes in one piece and then rip it into two sides. that way your dadoes line up perfectly;


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## sofasurfer (May 30, 2009)

This is the first time I saw this thread. I gotta say that you did a great job on the chest. The wood you chose if fantastic.


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## TwoSkies57 (Feb 23, 2009)

Props out to ya Deb.. just a wonderful job. Well thought out, well executed and your efforts have paid out in spades. I'm a big fan of spalted wood. Your use of it, just adds 
a lil extra visual interest. I have a stash of spalted maple that will someday, become a makeup table for my daughter. 

Having accomplished something like this, can only stir the fires for the next project(s).


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

Nice Job! Those are great pics to document the process. Well done. They give a perspective on what the process is to build something like this.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Many thanks! Just to be clear, I did all the dadoes in this project on the tablesaw. A router with a jig might be simpler. But yes doing the dados then cutting the parts makes everything line up nicely.
Derek wish I was closer I would gladly pop over and give you a hand.  If you have any questions just ask, I'll do my best to answer from my limited experience.


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## Noob (Apr 18, 2009)

Finished Chest

Wow, that is a very nice chest! It looks like it is the perfect size to carry around without being too heavy. The false-drawer knobs on the lid is a nice touch also.


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

I did use a jig of sorts to do the dados. I just didn't take the time to include a tiny little bit it needed. A pieced routed into the back board to ride in one of the previous dados so that each one would be perfectly spaced. Instead each time I slide it forward I used what I thought was a line I had measured correctly that was supposed to line up with the center mark.

All the jig was is 4 boards screwed together, two along the board, two atop the board. I had the boards tight up to the board I was routing and the top two boards making it so the router stayed straight. 

Looking at the pictures my Wife took I can see part of the problem that I didn't realize until now...the two side boards spread out a bit as they get further away from me 

I really need to upload pics and start a different thread as I don't want my mistake to mar this good work's thread.

I should have done the dados on the table saw before I cut the shelves to width, but since I don't have an actual dado blade yet I need to do it by the multiple pass method. Plus I had this brand new plunge router still sitting in the box that I wanted to use. At least I had fun doing it and am now out of that 1/2" plywood I didn't like. Lots of tiny slivers from it.

I had 2 1/4 sheets left of it until my father was over during the glue up. He said my mom was taking the longer scraps and saving them for plant stakes. So I took the last of the 1/2 plywood, cut it into approximately 2" strips and put a point on them. About $7 worth of plywood and she got a lot of stakes and I no longer have wood I hate but feel obligated to use since it is there.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Derek the slots I made on the TS were only 1/4" wide so I just did 2 passes with a regular blade. The slots weren't as flat and clean as I would have got with a router but I was just experimenting as I hadn't done dados on the TS before. If I were to do something like this again I would do it with the router. If I were making larger dados, I would try it on the TS with a dado blade. Supposedly you get cleaner slots with it. I still think the router gives the nicest flattest slots.


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

I have read that instead of a dado set you can set up circular saw blades, just making sure the tips are not lined up with each other. I want to try that as I don't see a dado set in my future.

I normally end up taking a chisel to the dado slot if there is any left over wood. I still need to sharpen them up right, but so far they work for me.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

DerekO said:


> I have read that instead of a dado set you can set up circular saw blades, just making sure the tips are not lined up with each other. I want to try that as I don't see a dado set in my future.
> 
> I normally end up taking a chisel to the dado slot if there is any left over wood. I still need to sharpen them up right, but so far they work for me.


Chisels can be tricky to work with in a dado. I like to use a shoulder plane to shave the bottom of the dado provided it it 3/4" wide.

This is the one I like to use and it has worked very well for me.

Veritas® Medium Shoulder Plane - Lee Valley Tools


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

TRN_Diesel said:


> Chisels can be tricky to work with in a dado. I like to use a shoulder plane to shave the bottom of the dado provided it it 3/4" wide.
> 
> This is the one I like to use and it has worked very well for me.
> 
> Veritas® Medium Shoulder Plane - Lee Valley Tools



Planes are something I have none of...all the ones I have seen online are too pricey to buy right now. I will have a hard time convincing Her to spend that much on a non-power tool even when my budget is almost closed down (kind of what I was told after the last Harbor freight trip:'() All I have for chisels is a cheap set of 4 bought at either menards or harbor freight. Doubt it was lowes or home depot as those two are normally a bit spendy for what She likes to pay for most tools.

I have thought about looking for my dad's plane, but that one would be way too wide as I remember we used it on the bottom of a door. That is the only time I can remember it being used as a kid. And I really doubt he has used it since then.


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## TRN_Diesel (Feb 24, 2009)

Since investing in hand planes they have changed the way I do woodowork. I wonder now how I got by without a block plane for instance when doing trim work or just fine tuning stuff. 

I know they are expensive but then again they will be around for ever and take little maintenance to keep in tip top shape.


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

I was just watching the Woodwright show and he was making a curved panel door just using chisels and planes and it was amazing what some of the planes could do.

I want some, just need to wait until things have settled down a while from all of the recent purchases.

I also need to learn how to sharpen things. I am thinking of trying Scary Sharp as one of the last tool sharpening machines I bought was so cheaply made that I put it back into the box and returned it after only trying it out for a few minutes. Since then I have seen some systems that do it with abrasive disks rotating and thought about a lower end one of those once I feel it is safe to ask for tools again, or at the latest wait for christmas as her parents always like to buy me tools instead of the computer equipment I usually want. Might put some planes on that list too, as my brother is the same way about presents.


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## CanuckGal (Nov 26, 2008)

Derek the Work Sharp system works very well. I have some inexpensive (read cheap) Groz hand planes but I sharpened the blades with the Work Sharp and I am now able to make beautiful curly wisps with them. I also had to do some work on the soles to get them flat, but it has all paid off. 
I tried the Lie Nielsen and Veritas planes at the wood show, oh yes they are amazing, but WAY out of my price league. When I win the lottery I'll have a set of each.


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## DerekO (Jan 20, 2010)

I had to cut some sheet metal ducting last night. So when I was done, I grabbed one of the cheap chisels I have...figured if nothing else, I can get another set for the under 10 bucks paid. held the back side against the disk for a bit making it flat and shiny. THen tried to do the bevel. Didn't do the best, but it cut a lot better than it did before. Not going to do them all that way as this was just fooling around to see what would happen. But it makes me want to get the Work Shop or the cheaper one I saw like it a lot more now.


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