# New to woodworking



## webbill (Nov 14, 2007)

Glad to find this site and grateful to the people that host it.

I havent done any wood working since 7th grade shop but enjoyed it back then. And decided I wanted to start building simple items like bird feeders and houses and maybe work myself up from there.

I never realized how versitile and complicated bits for a router could be. And people at the big outlets arent much help.

I was hoping that some of you could help me.

All I need is a router bit that will cut a groove that a 1/8" piece of plexiglass will slide into and a bit that will slightly round off one squared (sharp right angle) side of lumber. 

Please tell me what I need to buy, and besides those two bits are there any not too expensive kits ( about $50 or under) that would have those two items in it with some others that I could play around with getting used to and practicing with my new router that you could recommend, or do you suggest just buying individual bits as the need for them arise.

Thanks,

Bill


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## Roefa (Sep 14, 2007)

Hi Bill -
Welcome! You will find some great folks in this group... always willing to help. I'd suggest that you look at some of the assortment sets to begin with; they're generally a "better buy" than purchasing bits one at a time. You can use a plain straight cutting bit for your Plexiglas (R) groove. A spiral up-cutting bit will cut a little easier, because it clears the shavings, but is not necessary if you don't try to cut too deep in a single pass.

Noting that it's been a while since you have done any woodworking, I'll suggest that you get some scrap wood and experiment... see what the various bits will do and how they "handle" under varying conditions. Also, there are some great books, TV shows and internet video clips available on router techniques. Above all have fun and don't let a few mistakes spoil the fun! Glad you have joined our Forum.

Roger 
(Roefa)


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## webbill (Nov 14, 2007)

Roefa said:


> Hi Bill -
> Welcome! You will find some great folks in this group... always willing to help. I'd suggest that you look at some of the assortment sets to begin with; they're generally a "better buy" than purchasing bits one at a time. You can use a plain straight cutting bit for your Plexiglas (R) groove. A spiral up-cutting bit will cut a little easier, because it clears the shavings, but is not necessary if you don't try to cut too deep in a single pass.
> 
> Noting that it's been a while since you have done any woodworking, I'll suggest that you get some scrap wood and experiment... see what the various bits will do and how they "handle" under varying conditions. Also, there are some great books, TV shows and internet video clips available on router techniques. Above all have fun and don't let a few mistakes spoil the fun! Glad you have joined our Forum.
> ...


Thanks Roger, should I ask for a 1/8" plain straight cutting bit? (You understand that the groove is to put plexiglass in the wood, not the groove in the plexiglass. The cut will not be very deep and only about a foot long.

Please babysit me on this, I kind of promised something and on a deadline. I have read so many things on so many things about getting different tools including the router I am about brain dead.  

So if I call up or go into a store and ask for 1/8" straight cutting bit will I get what I need. I understand that the depth on the router will be adjustable, am I correct?

Thanks,

Bill


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi webbill

You didn say how wide the slot will be,, the bit I would recommend
would be the one below ▼
Flat Bottom Round Over #5443
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_groov.html

it will cut the slot and round over the slot at the same time...

BITS,, you can find many router bit sets on the net, most are over kill, buy one of the small sets and then buy the bits you want/need to add to your stock..

Like the ones below, in 1/4" and 1/2" shanks sizes..
http://cgi.ebay.com/30-pc-1-4-Shank...2831334QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/30-pc-1-2-Shank...3294360QQihZ003QQcategoryZ50386QQcmdZViewItem

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webbill said:


> Glad to find this site and grateful to the people that host it.
> 
> I havent done any wood working since 7th grade shop but enjoyed it back then. And decided I wanted to start building simple items like bird feeders and houses and maybe work myself up from there.
> 
> ...


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## webbill (Nov 14, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi webbill
> 
> You didn say how wide the slot will be,, the bit I would recommend
> would be the one below ▼
> ...


I went to the link you posted, those looked a lot fancier than I wanted to make. The groove I want to make would look like what a skill saw cut would look like straight edged. I assume I could adjust the router for how far away from the edge of the piece of wood and how deep the groove would be cut.

The kits looked nice, but it is like all the kits I have seen before they dont list what the individual bits are called or what they do.


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## Hamlin (Dec 25, 2005)

Welcome to the forums webbill. 
I agree on getting a simple "starter" set. HD, Lowes, etc. should carry such sets. As for your 1/8" slot. You'll want a 1/8" bit either a spiral (best choice), or a straight bit.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi webBill

"they dont list what the individual bits are called or what they do"

Most have pictures of the bits but what you use them for well that's up to you 
Click on the picture to see the pictures of the bits..

By the way that's about a $1.25 per .bit, that's hard to beat..

===============


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## webbill (Nov 14, 2007)

bobj3 said:


> Hi webBill
> 
> "they dont list what the individual bits are called or what they do"
> 
> ...


With the help I got here I found a bit set that had the following bits in it. It was one of the few that even listed the bits (most just have pictures of the bits but no listing of the names or picture of what they do to the wood), but this one still didn't have the sizes of the straight bits. I called the store and after having getting the department I was handed off to four people and finally got a man that used a router and he told me that one of the bits would do what I wanted. :sold: 

Includes: (3) Straight; (1) Corebox; (1) Roundover; (1) Roman Ogee

What the rest will do I dont know, but it will be fun finding out. Until I started looking for that one little bit I never realized what could be done with a router. Saws are saws, drills are drills, but it seems like routers will do almost everything (including cut wood if you set the too deep, and drill holes if you set them too deep) with right bit.

Thanks again everyone.

Bill


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## Dr.Zook (Sep 10, 2004)

Welcome to the Router Forums Bill. All you need is a 1/8" straight bit and a 1/4" round over. Good luck on your project.


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

Welcome Bill. Unless I missed something (entirely possible!), you don't say if you're table routing or plunge routing. This could influence any spiral bit you might use.


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## webbill (Nov 14, 2007)

nzgeordie said:


> Welcome Bill. Unless I missed something (entirely possible!), you don't say if you're table routing or plunge routing. This could influence any spiral bit you might use.


Hi Nzgeordie:

Good question and to show you how lost I am to all this I finally went out and bought out all the the stuff, router, with a plung base, router table and the bit set that said it had three straight bits and three others. I called Lowes and was told that the three straight bits were !/8 1/4, and 1/2, but when I got it the straight bits were 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2. I have 1/8" plexiglass. It will be tuesday afternoon or Wednesday before I can try it all out.

Also the bit with the regular base stuck out to high (too deep) when mounted to the router table so I put on the pluner base and set the bit more shallow and mounted it on the router table. Will that be okay?

I am just wondering with a 1/4 inch bit it my slot for the plexiglass will be too loose, I dont have time to order by mail a 1/8 bit and the Lowes stores around here arent carrrying it. After all this for now I might just start edges with a hack saw and finish it out with a small chiesel.

Got any ideas? Is it okay to mount the plunger base on the table?

Thanks, 

Bill


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

Hi Bill. I can't comment on why your fixed base router should be setting the bit too high as we don't have (many) fixed base routers downunder. 
I use a plunge (Triton) in my table so if your plunge is giving you the right bit height then use it. You might want to remove the springs to make life easier in the table.
It's got to be your call on whether to cut the slot for the plexiglass by hand or wait for the right bit - I know which I'd do as the router gives such clean precise cuts! 
As to whether to buy a bit starter kit or buy individually - I don't think there's anything wrong with a basic (say) 10 piece kit to get you started and let you play around to see how it all works. But I doubt I'd go for one of the bigger kits as I'm sure I'd end up with bits I'd never use (just my two penn'orth). You'd probably get an adequate roundover bit in a kit for what you want. I prefer a 1/4" radius piloted roundover (the bearing can be removed) for rounding off edges as you say you want to do.
Hope this is of use.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

All of the above advice is just fine Bill, but just to add my two cents worth. I started with a "starter" kit and when I found a cutter that I used on a regular basis I purchased a quality one to replace it. In the router table a roundover bit with or without bearing is OK but for the groove you do need a 1/8" bit. A small cutter can make a wide groove by multiple passes, moving the fence each time, but a wide cutter can't cut a small groove.
Of course if you have a rise and fall saw table and the kerf happens to be close to 1/8" then the problem is solved. I hope that you derive the same pleasure from woodworking, particularly routing as I have for more than half a century.


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## Roefa (Sep 14, 2007)

YIKES !!! Bill, one thing I completely overlooked is that you are cutting Plexigas (R) !
I have machined that stuff in various ways in years past and it can be easy or treacherous, depending upon the type, shape, tool speed, feed, etc. etc.. It can gum up in your tool and make a real mess of your work if everything is not just right. Often it cracks, splits, chips, melts and shatters. On the other hand, some cuts go so nicely it's overwhelming. My whole point in adding all of these cautions... Practice the cut on scrap until you are sure of it !!! Good luck !
Roger
(Roefa)


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## webbill (Nov 14, 2007)

nzgeordie said:


> Hi Bill. I can't comment on why your fixed base router should be setting the bit too high as we don't have (many) fixed base routers downunder.
> I use a plunge (Triton) in my table so if your plunge is giving you the right bit height then use it. You might want to remove the springs to make life easier in the table.
> It's got to be your call on whether to cut the slot for the plexiglass by hand or wait for the right bit - I know which I'd do as the router gives such clean precise cuts!
> As to whether to buy a bit starter kit or buy individually - I don't think there's anything wrong with a basic (say) 10 piece kit to get you started and let you play around to see how it all works. But I doubt I'd go for one of the bigger kits as I'm sure I'd end up with bits I'd never use (just my two penn'orth). You'd probably get an adequate roundover bit in a kit for what you want. I prefer a 1/4" radius piloted roundover (the bearing can be removed) for rounding off edges as you say you want to do.
> Hope this is of use.


Thanks for the reply Nzgeordie:

Well first I will see if the 1/4" will be too large, it might work. The problem is I am down to the wire and there is no places locally that sells a 1/8" straight bit, and if I mail order one I wont get it in time. I got the six bit set that is listed in an earlier post on this thread. So I have a round over for the edges. I dont want to round over the plexiglass grove.

Taking out the springs is news to me, I didnt think I could but it would make it easier to adjust. All this is so new to me I wasnt sure if I should mount the plunger base. But it seemed to work. I am so ignorant to this when I bought the table I didnt even realize that the router mounted to the base. I just thought there would be guides to help me control it on the top. duh!

I tried to read about all this to know something before I bought stuff and started doing it but I am a the point of thinking the only way to learn really is just to get it out and start seeing what it will do to some scrape wood.


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

webbill said:


> . . .
> I tried to read about all this to know something before I bought stuff and started doing it but I am a the point of thinking the only way to learn really is just to get it out and start seeing what it will do to some scrape wood.


You have learned well, pilgrim.
No matter what someone tells you -- or draws out for you - or even shows you-
You will never know what works best for you - until you do it.

As for your need to get those grooves cut quick ---
As you mentioned early on -
- that is the thickness of a typical circular saw/table saw kerf.
If you have access to a table saw (if you already said you didn't and I missed it -- sorry) I would vote for just setting the cut depth and the rip fence -
You could do it with a circular saw -- but not as easy.

On the 1/4" bit idea -- 
If your plexiglass is truly 1/8" -- and you cut a 1/4" slot --
Obviously thats going to leave you 1/16" on each side to fill with glazing or caulk etc. NOT a problem if you are planning to paint the frame.
If you are planning to stain it --- maybe something to think twice about.


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## webbill (Nov 14, 2007)

Thanks DrugStoreCowboy, and everyone:

I am putting the plexiglass in between two pieces of wood as a see through wall on a bird feeder. If the 1/4" slot that the plexiglass slides into lets there be too much give or wiggle room I can add a little trim piece to tighten it up.

I wont be using a router to cut the plexiglass, I'll use a jigsaw. I dont have a table saw, just a skillsaw and it would be hard to get it straight enough and the right width too besides I want to learn to use the router to other things eventually.

Thanks for all your help, it has helped.

Bill


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## nzgeordie (Oct 22, 2006)

webbill said:


> Thanks for the reply Nzgeordie:
> 
> Well first I will see if the 1/4" will be too large, it might work. The problem is I am down to the wire and there is no places locally that sells a 1/8" straight bit, and if I mail order one I wont get it in time. I got the six bit set that is listed in an earlier post on this thread. So I have a round over for the edges. I dont want to round over the plexiglass grove.
> 
> ...


Right on, Bill! The way to learn is to jump in "boots and all" as we say down here. But - BE SAFE!
Harry's advice is good. A starter kit will let you see which bits you use most often - then buy better bits. They'll give a superior finish and have a longer life.
Did you say what models of router you have? If you tell us, someone on the forum should be able to tell you how to mount your fixed base in the table to get the right bit height and/or how to remove the springs from your plunge.
The table saw sounds like a good solution for the slot but I can't understand that you can't get the right bit within a couple of days from somewhere like MLCS in the mail (you are in the US/Canada - aren't you?). I buy from them and it only takes about 10 days to get to me down here at the bottom of the world  
Anyway, enjoy the experience and post us some pics of the finished work.


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## webbill (Nov 14, 2007)

PS - I was asked what I bought. Here are the links to

The table;

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=127093-353-RAS450&lpage=none

The router;

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=109589-353-1825&lpage=none

The bits;

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=204398-353-91006&lpage=none

Any advice comments will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill


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## Drugstore Cowboy (May 17, 2007)

webbill said:


> Thanks DrugStoreCowboy, and everyone:
> 
> I am putting the plexiglass in between two pieces of wood as a see through wall on a bird feeder. If the 1/4" slot that the plexiglass slides into lets there be too much give or wiggle room I can add a little trim piece to tighten it up.
> 
> ...


You are dead right about cutting a groove like you need with the circular saw.
It CAN be done -- I've done it - before I got my table saw -- but setting up to do it well -- is a PAIN.

You are also VERY right about the versatility of the router. You will be amazed at what all you can get it to do.

You mentioned using a trim piece - so here is another idea just to add to your collection. I stole it from the bathroom cabinets in my 1920s bungalow -
Instead of cutting a groove --- lay your stock down and route out a rabbet like for a picture frame (do this after you do your roundover).
The cut a trim piece to fit around the 'back' side of the glass.

Don't know if this fits your specific project or not -- but it is another way to use the router to do a panel insert.

Whatever you do -- HAVE FUN doing it -- life is too short not to.


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## webbill (Nov 14, 2007)

nzgeordie said:


> Right on, Bill! The way to learn is to jump in "boots and all" as we say down here. But - BE SAFE!
> Harry's advice is good. A starter kit will let you see which bits you use most often - then buy better bits. They'll give a superior finish and have a longer life.
> Did you say what models of router you have? If you tell us, someone on the forum should be able to tell you how to mount your fixed base in the table to get the right bit height and/or how to remove the springs from your plunge.
> The table saw sounds like a good solution for the slot but I can't understand that you can't get the right bit within a couple of days from somewhere like MLCS in the mail (you are in the US/Canada - aren't you?). I buy from them and it only takes about 10 days to get to me down here at the bottom of the world
> Anyway, enjoy the experience and post us some pics of the finished work.


PS again:

Well I waited to late I need to build this tomorrow, next day is a two day holiday here and I am in the country and dont get saturday deliveries. Also the shipping would cost more than the bit, more it I get overnight or something like that.

So I decided to just make do, the trim should work.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

webbill said:


> Glad to find this site and grateful to the people that host it.
> 
> I havent done any wood working since 7th grade shop but enjoyed it back then. And decided I wanted to start building simple items like bird feeders and houses and maybe work myself up from there.
> 
> ...



*W e l c o m e !!*


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## webbill (Nov 14, 2007)

Thanks for the welcome
btw, what i bought wound up in the middle of earlier posts. I dont know how I managed that but if interested go back a few posts.


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## RustyW (Dec 28, 2005)

webbill said:


> Also the bit with the regular base stuck out to high (too deep) when mounted to the router table so I put on the pluner base and set the bit more shallow and mounted it on the router table. Will that be okay?



Bill, I agree with the others about jumping in and trying it hands on to learn, but..... The bit sticking out to far with the regular (fixed?) base has got me a little worried. Allthough thats not a real high end router, theres no reason that any of the bits you've shown should'nt be able to be adjusted below the surface of the table (or sub base). I think you should re-read the instructions that came with the router. And spend some time playing with all the adjustments while its unpluged. When you install a bit, let it drop fully into the collet then raise it about 1/8" before tightening the nut. Any height adjustments should be made with router and base, not with the bit in the collet.


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