# Dovetail bit question 8 degree versus 14 degree.



## Timmberman (Feb 8, 2009)

What is the difference between a 8 degree DT bit and a 14 degree DT bit.

A jig manufacturer said that the 8 degree is better looking/preferred.

Is this a matter of taste, because I have read that the preferred dove tail is a 14 degree.

Thanks,

Herb


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Herb

It comes down to blind or through dovetails, blind dovetail are 14 deg. the norm and through dovetails 7 or 8 deg. the norm and are longer the norm..so you can put dovetails in 3/4" thick stock the norm..


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Timmberman said:


> What is the difference between a 8 degree DT bit and a 14 degree DT bit.
> 
> A jig manufacturer said that the 8 degree is better looking/preferred.
> 
> ...


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## jw2170 (Jan 24, 2008)

Timmberman said:


> What is the difference between a 8 degree DT bit and a 14 degree DT bit.
> 
> A jig manufacturer said that the 8 degree is better looking/preferred.
> 
> ...



I have read/heard that the 8° bit is finer and therefore more decorative while the 14° bit looks more 'hand cut' and is stronger due to the angle between the pin and the tail.


2¢


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi James 

The 14 deg. bit is weaker and use for most blind dovetail joints the norm, in the blind dovetail joint you are just using 3/8" to 1/2" or less of the wood ,in the 7 or 8 deg. bit you are using all the wood for the joint.

Plus no math needed, what you cut the wood at is what it will fit in the hole 
It like the box joint but with a lock built in 

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jw2170 said:


> I have read/heard that the 8° bit is finer and therefore more decorative while the 14° bit looks more 'hand cut' and is stronger due to the angle between the pin and the tail.
> 
> 
> 2¢


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## jlord (Nov 16, 2009)

The bits that comes with the Porter Cable for use with the blind-dovetail is a 7°. The through-dovetail is also a 7° bit. A 14° used on some joints would give you thinner looking tails & pins As it would have sharper taper.


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## zerodyn (Aug 30, 2010)

The through-dovetail is also a 7° bit. A 14° used on some joints would give you thinner looking tails & pins As it would have sharper taper.
Thanks


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## bernjoel (Sep 11, 2017)

*Novice Woodworker*

I couldn't figure out how to start a thread so I just joined this forum to ask my question: When making a box using through-dovetails, I typically cut a dado on each piece to hold the bottom panel. 9 Times out of 10, the dado shows up on the exterior of each corner in the box. I always have to break out the wood filler to finish the job.

How can I avoid this issue?


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## Cherryville Chuck (Sep 28, 2010)

Hi Joel and welcome. I'm not sure if you mean a dado or rabbet but the procedure is the same. Use a router and stop short of going through. Cut a step in the front of the shelf that's flush with the inside of the case. You can square the stopped end of the dado or rabbet or round the stopped edge of the shelf.

As for starting new threads, click on the large Routerforums logo near the top of the page. This takes you to the home page. Scroll down through the various sub forums until you find one that fits your subject matter and then click on it and open it. There will be a box that says "New Thread" down a little ways close to the left border of the screen. Click on it and follow the instructions.


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## Stick486 (Jan 4, 2013)

relative to species, grain orientation, purpose, aesthetics, material thickness, application or just what you like...

now for some terminology...
.


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## Herb Stoops (Aug 28, 2012)

bernjoel said:


> I couldn't figure out how to start a thread so I just joined this forum to ask my question: When making a box using through-dovetails, I typically cut a dado on each piece to hold the bottom panel. 9 Times out of 10, the dado shows up on the exterior of each corner in the box. I always have to break out the wood filler to finish the job.
> 
> How can I avoid this issue?


This discussion seems to go with the stopped "dado" or slot. dovetail box bottoms - by bobasaurus @ LumberJocks.com ~ woodworking community

I clamp stops to my router table fence where I want the slot to stop. Then I drill a hole with the drill press the width and depth of the slot on each end of the board. Set the bit to height. Then position the board over the bit in the hole recess, start the router holding the board tight, push the board to the next stop and turn the router off, and when the bit stops lift off the board.

When I got a lift for my router, I was able to set the stops as before, turn the router on and raise the bit while running to set the depth, thus eliminating the drilling operation,then making my cut, shutting off the router and lifting the board off the bit.
Hope this helps,
Herb


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