# Thickness Planer Sled



## pmspirito (Sep 19, 2004)

Here is the planer sled I buillt. It will handle 4 ft pieces without any hand support on either the in-feed or the out-feed.


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## Joe Lyddon (Sep 11, 2004)

pmspirito said:


> Here is the planer sled I buillt. It will handle 4 ft pieces without any hand support on either the in-feed or the out-feed.



Peter, Looks nice & simple...

I don't have a thickness planer yet...

Why do you need all of those clamps? I always thought a sled was more of a carrier that just carried the smaller pieces through the planer.

Does your sled stay in one place?

How do you like your Ryobi??

Thank you.


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## bobj3 (Jan 17, 2006)

Hi Peter

Looks good  I see by the chips on the bottom side you have given it a test run,,, how did it work for you ?

The one I made was not as long as yours but it works well... (4ft long over all)

It stops the snipe on both ends 


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pmspirito said:


> Here is the planer sled I buillt. It will handle 4 ft pieces without any hand support on either the in-feed or the out-feed.


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## harrysin (Jan 15, 2007)

That's one cute simple idea and like most good ideas you have to say "why didn't I think of that".


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Very nice Peter. The planer will be my next purchase. Like Bob said, did it eliminate all of the snipe for you? 

Corey


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## pmspirito (Sep 19, 2004)

This takes out 99% of the snipe. The last 1% is technique. I send the wood thru at a slight angle. Sometimes turning the board end for end will give you a better finish. I am very happy with this planer. I made some porch columns for an old house we are restoring in NC out of 2x10 pressure treated yellow pine and it did a great job. The photo is not very good for some reason the walls look angled but you can see the columns.


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## challagan (Feb 7, 2006)

Very nice Peter. I am still collecting data for the planer purchase and thanks for the info!

Corey


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## pmspirito (Sep 19, 2004)

Back to that photo again. The side walls of the house and garage are actually straight. But the columns ARE tapered. One of the brick columns was leaning real bad. I managed to get it jacked up straight and shored but had no way to remove the hydraulic jack from under it without the brick column collasping before pouring the concrete pad under it. So I just poured the concrete and left the jack in place. "The end justified the means."


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